How much watermelon did you eat over the Fourth of July weekend? Our family had chilled sliced watermelon, watermelon and peach salad, watermelon sangria and even watermelon cake.

Well, “cake.” My mother-in-law made it by removing the rind of a watermelon and cutting it into the shape of a layer cake, “frosting” it with whipped cream, and decorating it with fresh berries and shaved chocolate. A little weird, yes, but quite refreshing.

For most Americans, Fourth of July marks the official start of watermelon season, which runs from May through October. Our appetite for this summer fruit is big: The average American eats more than 16 pounds of the fruit every year. Luckily for us San Diegans, California is one of the country’s largest producers.

Considered primarily a dessert fruit, most people eat watermelon plain, which is a shame since it has such potential to enliven savory dishes. The key is to balance the fruit’s sweetness with something salty, bitter, acidic or spicy. That’s why watermelon and feta salad has become wildly popular over the last couple of years. The salty, slightly tart feta enhances the sweetness of the watermelon, making it an addictive combination.

Watermelon can be the star of many delicious salads. Consider pairing it with bitter endive and pungent blue cheese for an Italian twist or with earthy avocados and sharp red onions for a Mexican flair. A simple combination of watermelon chunks, fresh peaches, mint, salt and extra-virgin olive oil can all but steal the show at a cookout since it’s such a bright complement to charred grilled meats and seafood.

Try watermelon in salsas too — watermelon, mango and hot curry powder is a distinctive topping for grilled shrimp or scallops, while watermelon, jicama and mango salsa perks up grilled meats such as beef and pork.

As for herbs, there’s no limit — watermelon gets along with everything from mellow cilantro, mint and basil to more assertive rosemary, tarragon and marjoram.

For simple summertime appetizers, try wrapping a slice of watermelon with prosciutto or making watermelon stacks with watermelon, feta and basil or mint.

It’s also a welcome addition to many drinks, from sangrias and margaritas to aqua frescas and smoothies. As for dessert, it makes irresistibly vibrant slushies, Popsicles and sorbets. And don’t forget to grill it. Grilled watermelon is an unexpected pleasure — sweet and smoky, and oh-so-good. Drizzle it with honey and balsamic or sprinkle it with salt and lime.

Of course, before you eat all this watermelon, you want to make sure you know how to properly select one. Look for a firm, symmetrical melon that is free from bruises, cuts or dents. It should have a healthy sheen and scratch marks on the rind, which are from bees that have pollinated the fruit. Pick up the melon to make sure it’s heavy for its size (watermelons are 92 percent water), then turn it over to look for a creamy yellow spot where it ripened in the sun.

Although some watermelon purists insist that seeded watermelons are superior in flavor, I’ve found most seedless watermelons to be equally sweet and juicy and much more convenient. The choice is yours.

But if you’re reading this and you haven’t yet bought your first watermelon of the season, you’d better get started. You’ve only got a couple more months to reach your 16 pounds for the season.

Grilled Steak Tacos With Watermelon-Mango-Jicama Salsa

Makes 4 servings

Salsa:

2 cups diced watermelon

1 cup diced mango

¾ cup diced, de-seeded, peeled cucumber

¾ cup diced jicama

3 green onions, finely chopped

1 serrano chili

1 small avocado, diced

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

¼ cup each of fresh chopped mint and cilantro

Salt, to taste

Steak tacos:

1½ pounds flap steak (sometimes called carne asada)

A generous sprinkling of salt, black pepper and cumin

The zest of ½ lime

8 white corn tortillas

½ cup queso fresco cheese, crumbled

For the salsa, combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss well.

Heat the grill to high. Season both sides of the steak with salt, black pepper, cumin and lime zest. Place steak on the grill, close cover, and cook until charred, about 5 minutes. (Closing the cover will help create a charred exterior and a softer, juicer interior.) Turn steak over, and cook 1 to 2 minutes for a medium-rare steak or 4 to 5 minutes for a medium steak. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

Heat tortillas on the top rack of grill for about for 1 minute per side or until warmed through.

Place the sliced steak on the tortilla shell, top with salsa and cheese. Serve immediately.

Note: Queso fresco is a mild-flavored Mexican cheese with a crumbly texture and can be found in the refrigerator section of most major supermarkets.

Watermelon, Arugula and Green Olive Salad

Makes 4 servings

Vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon watermelon juice

A generous sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper

Salad:

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 shallot, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon sugar

6 to 8 cups arugula

1 cup small watermelon chunks

6 to 8 cured green olives, such as Cerignola or green Greek

2 to 3 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

Whisk vinaigrette ingredients together and set aside.

In a small skillet over medium-low heat, warm 1 teaspoon olive oil. Add shallot and cook until slightly caramelized, about 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and stir. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, toss arugula, watermelon chunks, olive slices, fresh parsley and cooked shallots. Drizzle with dressing and toss until coated.

Simple Summertime Watermelon and Mint Stacks

Makes about 2 dozen

1 medium seedless watermelon

A 1-pound block of feta cheese (not crumbled)

A handful of fresh mint leaves

Toothpicks with frills

Extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, optional

Cut watermelon into 1- to 1½-inch squares. Top each square with an equal-sized piece of feta cheese. Top with a fresh mint leaf, and pierce the stack with a toothpick. If desired, sprinkle with olive oil and sea salt before serving.

Watermelon-Basil Margaritas

Makes 2 to 3 generous or 4 smaller drinks

4 ounces tequila

2 ounces Cointreau

1½ ounces fresh lime juice

1½ cups watermelon chunks

4 to 6 fresh basil leaves

3 to 4 cups ice

Salt and chili powder to rim the glasses

Basil leaves for garnish

Place all ingredients in a blender and blend on high for 1 minute. These margaritas are mildly slushy. For thicker, slushier ones, add more ice.

Wet the rim of the glasses with lime juice, then dip in a mixture of salt and chili powder.

Garnish each glass with a fresh basil leaf. You can also skewer a small watermelon ball and place it across the top of the glass.

Recipes from Susan Russo.

San Diego food writer Susan Russo is the creator of the Food Blogga website (foodblogga.blogspot.com