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E39 (1997 - 2003) The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

The bleed screw broke in half.
I tried to extract it (dumb mistake; I should have drilled it out); and that broke the bib around the bleed screw. No big deal, now I need a new hose.

BUT ... here's the situation:
- I'm really (really) tired of breaking things ... I really am. Almost anything PLASTIC has broken on me in this job ... so I'm going to ask a dumb question first ...
- In the morning, I will remove the upper radiator hose.

HERE IS THE DUMB QUESTION:May I ask ... HOW do you remove that upper radiator hose WITHOUT breaking more things (specifically the thermostat housing and the radiator neck)?

At this point, I've pulled the pin right off the radiator neck half of the upper radiator hose (at this point, everything plastic on this E39 is starting to feel like a grenade) ... I tugged ... I pulled ... I twisted ... but I'm scared!

But, I'm sooooooo (so very) tired of breaking plastic, that I don't want to remove this hose the wrong way!

What's the RIGHT way to remove the upper radiator hose WITHOUT breaking the neck of the radiator in the process?

Once the pin/clip is released if the hose does not easily come off you will need to gently twist it back and forth while pulling. You are just breaking the o-ring seal from the hose to the lip of the radiator hose, Do not rock it back and forth but just twist it a bit and pull.

Blubee--may as well figure to replace the cooling system if you haven't as of yet--the plastic is trying to tell you something--it's gotten old my freind and will let you down if you try to trust it further.

good point poolman- the upper radiator hose warned me of the thermostat housing plastic so i replaced it too...but do know that i just replaced my radiator, cap, and reservoir a year ago (pressure test didn't show anything on that side) do you recommend aluminum thermostat housing, radiator and bleed screws?

On our model cars the only avenue is the plastic stat housing--the early year engine's M52 have available the
alm stat housing

Poolman's right (as usual) ... the later model E39's have the thermostat built into the housing and the only other option is Zionsville (I think) which is way too expensive for most of us.

The brass bleeders are recommended by most; but they are not required.

If you want a good list of recommended cooling-system replacement parts, spend time here. The whole point of making that list was for us to come up with the best recommendations so that your question is answered before you ever asked it.

BTW, Poolman ... do you know anything about pools? I just bought a house with a big pool and it's driving me crazy! So much to learn!

when my bleeder screw popped in half i used a lighter to warm up the tip of a screw driver and it melted right into the broken bleed screw, i let it dry for a couple of seconds and just unscrewed it ...for removing the hose without breaking anything i used your method of exploiting a gap until i just used my hands to gently twist it in and outward not down or up to create any pressure on the parts it connects to. i have installed the metal bleed screws from autohasaz even though a tech at bmw said metal bleed screws were not designed for those plastic parts and it wasn't a good idea, like plastic bleed screws that pop in half (murphy law) are a good idea

... even though a tech at bmw said metal bleed screws were not designed for those plastic parts and it wasn't a good idea, like plastic bleed screws that pop in half (murphy law) are a good idea

Exactly! What the heck are these guys thinking? I have yet to see a failure related to brass bleeder screws. I ordered two for my car, not realizing at the time that the V-8 only had one bleed screw. So I gave the extra to 540Alex last weekend.

I plan to get a couple of the brass screws myself.... Only thing I'd caution, be aware that with a brass screw, the weakest threads will now be in the hose or expansion tank, and replacing those (if they strip) is a lot more expensive and time-consuming. Don't overtighten.

I am trying to replace the radiator shrould. I need to remove some of the hoses to have better access. Does anybody know how these hoses can be disconnected from the radiator and radiator expansion tank ? I did remove clips securing the hoses but I am not sure whether I should twist and pull.

If the germans had figured out how to make good rubber and plastic they would have won the war !! These cars are old and everything you touch crumbles. I dropped the radiator fan six inches to concrete, and two blades snapped off.

The top and bottom hoses were about 40.00 together from auto parts warehouse dot com. Pull the clip up with a pair of needle noses and pull loose. Putting them on I had to grease the radiator and hose coupling to get the new ones on. Same thing with the sensor in the lower radiator hose. I had grease the hole as well as the sensor, wrap with towel (so I would not break it) and squeeze it in. I did this part at the kitchen table. I could not imagine it going in while attached to the radiator.

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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Hi, newbie here! First let me apologize if this has been answered before, I can honestly tell you I really searched for a LONG time trying to resolve this myself. We recently purchased a used 2003 BMW 530i and are very happy with it. However we now have a leak in the upper radiator hose and I am aware from reading the forum that the whole coolant system should be replaced but we just can't do it at this time. I have found Bluebee's instructions on removing the hose to be extremely helpful and have tried it myself but it's just not budging! I feel like the screw driver is causing too much damaging with each twist (and if I cause any more expenses my hubby will never let me hear the end of it!). My question is...can the middle hose be removed, leaving the "quick connects" (with the pins) still attached to the car and if so do I cut the metal rings off? I've noticed the auto shops tend to just carry the hose itself anyway. Also is there a step by step instruction for just the hose removal? It seems to be a simple process, I'm just scared because of all the new terms I'm learning such as "bleeding", etc... HELP! (Pretty please).