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Friday, October 9, 2015

Finished! Butterick 6167 in Flocked Faille

I'm also calling this the "Meta Dress" because it has little dresses flocked on it! Dresses on dresses, readers. YES. This is my pattern design B6167 done up in my new flocked faille, just out at Joann.

I did make a couple changes to the pattern. First, I used a contrast fabric for the bust inset and the straps. It's a black tulle flocked with tiny dots all over it, a perfect match for the main fabric. Here's a picture of the texture.

I layered the tulle over black Kona cotton for opacity. When you use a sheer for the gathered inset, you will probably want to cut two of the bust stay: one for the lining, and one to underline the gathered inset with (this way you don't see the inside of the stay through the sheer fabric). Here are my two bust pieces during assembly. The gathered tulle is basted to the second bust stay, and the second bust stay is for the lining (note that it also has a strip of white fusible interfacing to stabilize the neckline).

I also changed the skirt design. The original design was made up in my rose sateen border print, so the skirt was a gathered rectangle.

The faille, however, doesn't gather very nicely because of its stiffness. So I used a three-quarter circle skirt pattern I have instead. I just measured the pattern pieces before cutting to make sure everything would fit together and match at the side seams.

I also added a little glitter velvet ribbon underneath the bust, with a bow at center front. I liked the idea of having a little "border" between the bust inset and the midriff.

I also wore a black satin belt with it for extra vintage flair. Also, a chiffon petticoat!

As for matching the print along the seams: I had great intentions of doing it on all the seams, until I realized that I would have to drastically shift the grainlines on the side bodice pieces to make that work. So I made do with matching the dresses along the center back seam, as you can see in the photo above.

Construction-wise, I made a small amount of changes. This pattern design was originally conceived as a casual sundress, so the pattern only calls for boning at the center back and the side seams. As this is a more formal look, I decided to add more structure. (Also, I love using steel boning so much that I get a little carried away!).

I added extra channels on the princess seams below the bust and diagonally on either side of the bust. Here's a picture of the inside of the bodice lining.

I used black sew in interfacing for the outer bodice. You can press the faille lightly, but it's better to now use too much steam or pressure on flocking. So sew-in interfacing is best. You can baste it to your fabric by hand or machine (but only if the machine doesn't cause puckering).

I made my waist stay in lavender petersham.

As for the fit. I used my bodice lining as my muslin, and it worked out just fine. I made a size 12, which had to be taken in just a little at the side seams. I also had to raise the waist seam 1/4". I made the A/B cup size, which fit very well. I'm so glad this pattern also has C and D cup sizes, as the bust fit is so important.

I'm so loving this dress. It feels like it was made for dancing. And it's been wonderful having time to sew things in my patterns and fabrics. I hope you're enjoying the results!

Wow! What a dress! I love the circle skirt, which makes this a great dress for dancing! I realize the circle skirt would not work for the original border print. It is very hard to match prints, which I try to do, and I also try to be careful where parts of a print will show up on my body.

I was immediately drawn to this fabric when you announced your newest collection, but I was on the fence as to whether a dress made of fabric with a bunch of little dresses on it would look crazy amazing or just plain crazy - I mean, it could sort of go either way. But this TOTALLY WORKS! Really lovely sewing, Gertie.

This is gorgeous! You've totally nailed the fit of the bodice (which kinda makes sense, given it's your pattern ;-) ) and the skirt. I actually prefer this skirt with the bodice than the gathered one. It would look a little too matchy-matchy if this fabric had the pattern matched rather than the seams. The notion of a waist stay is something new to me, and so something I'm going to have to try out.

I'm so glad you've taken up your blog again, mainly because I love your practical advice.Autumn (Fall ) is the time I start thinking again about sewing ideas, and I get inspiration from you!Even though I might not make the items that you describe.