Domaine du Moulin, Cheverny 2010

Anyone who knows me knows I’m no art buff (and some would say that’s the understatement of the week.) But in thinking about how to describe this wine, it occurred to me there are parallels between the wine and art worlds that come into play, so please indulge me as I attempt a clumsy comparison…

For centuries artists have challenged convention, thrown traditional methods out the window and initiated major cultural shifts. And more often than not the first brave forays into a new style were mocked by critics before they opened their minds to innovative techniques and eventually revered the pioneers of a new movement.

I can’t help but be drawn to wines made by similarly avant garde producers. Those that question the norm and push the boundaries with no regard for what the critics might think of the end result. Does the arrival of minimal intervention wines – the shunning of rules and the more expressive, open and honest flavours that can deliver – suggest the dawn of a new movement in winemaking?

I believe (and sincerely hope) it does.

Hervé Villemade at Domain du Moulin is one producer who is challenging tradition and turning heads with his honest, expressive wines. This wineis unmistakably a Cheverny from the Loire – 50% Pinot noir, 50% Gamay. Its nose is so vivid it jumps right out of the glass at you, lifted by green tinges from a 50% whole cluster ferment in a refreshing kind of way. The palate is light, subtle and leaves you wanting more.

So whether you’re more comfortable with the classics or have an appetite for the abstract, this wine has plenty to offer anyone with an open mind and a curious palate.

:::ON:::

O = Organic: farming without the use of inputs that can have adverse effects. ‘Non-systemic’ fungicides and pesticides are used in place of ‘systemic’ chemicals said to enter the ‘blood’ of a plant (akin to antibiotics in the human world).

N = Natural: no additives or aids (eg yeast, yeast food, added acid/enzymes/tannin) bar a touch of sulphur during aging or before bottling, if at all.