Corin Roth clearly enjoys her job. Roth, who owns the Lodge at Galena with her husband, Eric, flits around the dining room waiting on tables. She enthusiastically endorses each dish, describes specials and makes the entire affair seem effortless.

The restaurant, nestled into the Sierra foothills, is a prime spot for skiers and snowboarders to stop on the way up -- or down -- the mountain. It has a comfortable feel without being like a hunter's paradise -- there's nary a taxidermied animal head in sight, much to my relief.

There also is a more formal dining room and a patio for dining al fresco. Expansive windows provide diners with a lovely view. When the afternoon turns to dusk, white lights strung on the trees outside begin to glow.

Dumpling days

The menu is varied and interesting. Appetizers, salads, sandwiches, steaks, seafood, house specialties and pasta dishes appear, as well as a special of the day.

Corin Roth sells me on the roasted garlic flatbread because she says it's very garlicky, and it doesn't disappoint. Flatbread triangles are topped with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses, whole roasted garlic cloves, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil. 'The garlic still provides a punch, despite its roasted sweetness, and the ingredients combine to create a simple but fantastic dish.

Dumplings arrive steamed instead of fried -- a happy circumstance. The dumplings -- sprinkled with white and black sesame seeds -- sit atop a bed of shredded cabbage and are served alongside a ponzu dipping sauce.

The filling is moist and delicious -- pork and cabbage stand out as star ingredients. The ponzu (soy with a hint of citrus) is balanced without being too sweet.

French onion soup is a favorite, and the Lodge's version delights. The soup comprises flavorful broth, velvety ribbons of caramelized onion, a crouton and melted, gooey cheese on top. At $4, this soup's a steal -- I'm satisfied after only a few bites.

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A Caesar salad has crunchy romaine lettuce pieces, a tangy Caesar dressing, housemade croutons and shredded parmesan cheese. The salad, a little underdressed, is remedied with an extra dollop of the dressing.

Feeling special

The Lodge's fajitas are the best I've had in years. A mountain of beef, chicken, onions and red and green peppers arrives sputtering on a sizzling platter, topped with crisp tortilla strips.

I don't love the tortilla strips -- the steam quickly uncrisps the strips -- but they are easily removed. The meat is seasoned perfectly, the chicken is mouthwateringly tender and I love the delicious pan juices on the platter.

The portion size is so generous I take most of it home and for eagerly awaited leftovers.

The Sunday special (served each week) is spaghetti and meatballs. The dish arrives with linguine instead, but that's no problem. A bed of slippery noodles is blanketed with marinara sauce and two baseball-sized Wagyu breed beef meatballs.

The meatballs are rich and infused with rosemary -- a tad too much or just perfect, depending on one's love of the herb. The marinara dresses up the pasta without overpowering the flavors of the meatballs.

For dessert, apple crisp ends the evening nicely. Tender pieces of cinammon-baked apples peek out from a Dutch crumb-style topping and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The dessert is crustless, but really, who needs the crust? Not me.

Service is excellent; Roth is highly attentive, and dishes touch down as if the evening is choreographed.

The Lodge at Galena is a gem of the Reno restaurant scene. I plan to revisit when the weather continues to warm -- sit one the patio, enjoy a glass of wine and nibble on something delicious. Again, I'll leave myself in the capable hands of Corin Roth.