The Mystery Behind the Maison Martin Margiela Lab Coats

Maison Martin Margiela has always been a curious case. The label makes costly luxury clothes that look like trash bags, duvet covers, or—in the case of the label's spring 2014 show, a hospital gown made from a business suit. MMM collaborates with big brands like Converse and H&M, despite being deliberately faceless, with designer photographs forbidden and backstage interviews impossible. And then there's the lab coat, a uniform that all Margiela staffers wear while working, which serves as an equalizer, an ID badge, and maybe even a religious symbol.

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So how can one become a part of the MMM cult? Not easily, it seems. Before and after the show, we approached 10 of Margiela's white-wrapped acolytes with a simple question: "Where can I buy that coat?" The results? Two stared silently, six said, "I don't know," and one man answered "I cannot tell" in a strong, sharp accent, then gestured for us to stop taking smartphone pictures. (Oops, sorry Instagram...) Later, a young woman offered, "You can earn it" before briskly walking several stylists to their front row seats.