Non-plated case (SS/Gold/Etc.). Plated cases tend to develop scratches and can be polished only to some grade.
Sapphire glass (for modern).
Shock-resistance (for vintage, all modern are shock-resistant).
Ability to be served locally (I have no patience to wait months for overseas service).
Metal bracelet for everyday use.
Day-Date function for everyday use.
Stainless steel for everyday use.

First, I like a classic design. It must be subdued, but with its own character: wrist presence without shouting. Every detail must be finished exquisitely. The movement must be first class, but there is no need for frills that do not add to the quality. I do not need all kinds of elaborate complications, but I do not shun them either: a date is very practical, I see no use for a chronograph. But the most important is that I must feel love, desire for the watch.

1) Legibility - My poor close up vision rules out watches that have tiny dials or too much clutter.
2) Durability - Ability to hold up to a physically active life style
3) Shape - Round only
4) Size - Case 36-42mm
5) Nothing gaudy, no diamonds, or something that looks like it comes out of a post apocalyptic movie.
6) Affordability - No high four, or five figure watches

All the aforementioned points are factors or prerequisites, but the most important to me is why should I add this watch to my collection and what does this particular watch bring to the table? Is it the history or pedigree, a certain function, a certain technology in the movement or case, special case material or perhaps it's built for a purposes.

I try not to purchase based on the aesthetics or the "cool" factor alone, there needs to be one or more boxes to check before considering the acquisition.

Variety and purpose with almost no collection overlap so that I wear everything regularly . . .

Wed, 27 April 2016 20:58

Over the last 15+ years, I've built my collection carefully so that I have a watch for every purpose (dive, sport, dress), with almost no collection overlap. With no overlap, I'll actually wear everything.

I might add 1-2 more similarly priced watches, but I haven't bought anything new for 2+ years because I'm happy with the state of my collection after 60+ watches have come and gone over the last 15+ years.

That usually means a movement that was significant in the history of watchmaking, whether it's a Patek caliber 27-460 or an early Eternamatic or Felsa Bidynator. There's a lot to be found in all price ranges, as ingenuity was not restricted to the rich, but I'm usually looking for watches whose existence affected the course of the watch industry.

Of course, I have to like the way they look, and, more and more as I get less youthful, I have to be able to read them.

Also, in the olden days, sporty watches almost universally were of reduced quality. (I like almost exclusively vintage watches.) If one wants sporty watches, it is almost inevitably necessary to compromise on movement significance and quality. For example, both Omega and Rolex (with a few exceptions) used their lower-grade movements on their sports watches. If I'm seeking a watch with a sporty look, it's all about the look and I ask nothing more than competence from the movement.