When mine was blasted it opened up the surface like a sponge, was very porous and required a lot of work to fill and smooth out. Mine was also done with soda and I had to rinse and neutralize a few times until I was happy there was no residue. It made me wonder if just spending the time with a DA would have been better. Luckily yours has the removable bumper extensions and you don't need to deal with the corrugated area that mine has, what a pain.

Opened it up like a sponge is a good description. I tried the DA sander and it just clogged up after about 15 seconds, Heat gun was effective but slow and paint stripper was also slow not to mention messy. So the blasting was probably to best was to go. As I have looked over the car I found several more spots to repair that I wasn't aware of, so I will have so work to do over the next couple of weeks.

I just found this thread, too late now but personally I would have wet sanded that body with say 80 grit until it got down to the primer coat. The water cools the paint and prevents the melting and sand paper plugging you were experiencing.

Back 25 years ago we used a product call Feather Fill on fiberglass bodies to prep them for paint. It is a high build polyester resin based sprayable primer/surfacer that is very compatible in temperature expansion rates to fiberglass and helps prevent future alligator cracking of the finish coat.

[quote="oprn"]I just found this thread, too late now but personally I would have wet sanded that body with say 80 grit until it got down to the primer coat. The water cools the paint and prevents the melting and sand paper plugging you were experiencing.

I tried the wet sanding and it still was a problem unless I hand sanded. The acrylic lacquer paint was on extremely thick which was part of the problem it would take an hour to get a square foot sanded.