I've not used it for a while but somewhere in my loft I've got a cd32 and a Analogic disk drive. Any idea if one of these Gotek Floppy emulators would possibly work as a replacement for the Analogic disc drive? Would be great if it did as I don't think I'd trust most of the old floppies I have so by using adf's and relokick then most things might work?

Nice, last time I ordered electronics from kong hong it took ages, slightly heavier stereo amplifier though, i expect these are very light. What machine are you installing it in and re you going to have to make any alterations to fit/access the drive?

Nice, last time I ordered electronics from kong hong it took ages, slightly heavier stereo amplifier though, i expect these are very light. What machine are you installing it in and re you going to have to make any alterations to fit/access the drive?

It is going into A1200 to start with. Looking at the guide on the OP it looks like no alterations are needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akira

Is the unit lighter than a floppy drive?

If it was much lighter it would float away. Very light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kipper2k

This would make a good companion to this floppy drive as it is low profile

Yeah I have a nice small 'nub' stick for my OUYA. The floppy emulator would look much better with a small stick.

A have a few questions:

1. The OP guide gives pins to connect for the firmware programming. Can I just connect TX & RX from my Serial-TTL, then GND & +5V from my normal PC floppy power cable? Or do I need to link the GND from the Serial-TTL to the GND of the PC floppy power connector.

The reason I ask is that I am not sure if my Serial-TTL outputs 3,3V or 5V (yet, will test with multimeter once home).

2. The OP guide states after programming and plugging into AMIGA "Don’t forget to move the jumper to the "S0" position to replace DF0." Do you think he is talking about removing the jumper across BOOT0 - 3.3V which needed to be done to activate Programming Mode?

2. The OP guide states after programming and plugging into AMIGA "Don’t forget to move the jumper to the "S0" position to replace DF0." Do you think he is talking about removing the jumper across BOOT0 - 3.3V which needed to be done to activate Programming Mode?

The boot jumper is on only when programming, and you may have to jumper S0 if there is no jumper on it

2. The OP guide states after programming and plugging into AMIGA "Don’t forget to move the jumper to the "S0" position to replace DF0." Do you think he is talking about removing the jumper across BOOT0 - 3.3V which needed to be done to activate Programming Mode?

I have had no luck in getting my PC to talk to drive.
My rs232-ttl I don't think outputs 5v so I have connected the 5v+ from PC floppy drive lead. Not sure what to do with GND. I have tried both GND from serial-ttl and GND from PC floppy power.

The error message on the firmware flashing software says about resetting the device. There is a RESET header on PCB but I don't know what I connect it to for enabling resting.
Sometimes programme hangs for say 20sec before error message, other times message was coming up quickly, so it suggests it is talking with some combination of my leads!

I have had no luck in getting my PC to talk to drive.
My rs232-ttl I don't think outputs 5v so I have connected the 5v+ from PC floppy drive lead. Not sure what to do with GND. I have tried both GND from serial-ttl and GND from PC floppy power.

The error message on the firmware flashing software says about resetting the device. There is a RESET header on PCB but I don't know what I connect it to for enabling resting.
Sometimes programme hangs for say 20sec before error message, other times message was coming up quickly, so it suggests it is talking with some combination of my leads!

1- You need to strap the BOOT0 signal to +3,3V. To check that this is ok, just power up the emulator : the display should stay off in bootstrap mode (display not initialized).

2- Of course you need to supply some power (5V) to the drive.

3- No reset is needed : the BOOT0 is also checked at power up.

4- Have you do a loop back test with an terminal software (hyperterminal?) of your serial adapter by connecting the rx & tx wires together ? This is a good way to be sure that the adapter and serial port is working.

5- You need a serial adapter with 3,3V output (tx) /input (rx) levelEDIT: Just checked : The UART programming pins of the STM32 are 5V tolerant. So you can use both 5V and 3,3V serial adapter without issue. No need to have a specific 3,3V version. I will update the page with this information.

6- The GND should be connected to the usb drive too. the serial adapter is already connected with the PC GND through the serial cable.

7- Important note: The picture on the website show you the actual pinout of the programming port, not where to plug the wires : Don't forget to cross connect the TX and RX lines between the adapter and the usb drive (adapter TX on usb drive RX and adapter RX on usb drive TX)

1. I soldered on some headers to make connecting easier. Jumper pin is across BOOT0 - and I noticed that if it is made (programming mode) display is off.
4. Will try this thanks.
5. My serial-TTL is MAX232 chip so 3,3V (RX & TX). But good to know 5V is ok (I bought the MAX232 for Raspberry Pi).
6. Ah, I might have a problem here. I had to unscrew/remove the GND surround from my serial-TTL plug as I don't have a MALE-MALE(?) serial lead and I could not plug in the adaptor directly to my PC. Sounds like my GND might be broken. Will hunt for serial lead at work!
7. Ah yes I did miss that one to start with. Problems with having this to do in the evening and trying to bit a bit of hacking in the free time!

I ordered a USB-TTL adaptor at the same time as the Floppy Emulator. I did not expect the floppy to turn up after 7 days, so now waiting for USB-TLL (slow boat from China!). I am just trying to see if what I have at the moment will work.
I don't suppose you have a way of writing the firmware file with a Raspberry Pi?