Restaurant Guide 2013: Chiang Mai

[No. 2 THAI TIE] The battle for
second-best Portland Thai restaurant rages in the city where Pok Pok
reigns supreme. Chiang Mai, specializing in the foods of its namesake
northern Thailand city, is a contender, among a handful that have
elevated above the pack, eschewing crappy pad thai and gloppy cloying
peanut sauce. The menu is lengthy and relies on the Thai name and a
brief ingredient list for each dish. A safe bet is to order the regional
specialties listed on the first page. Best of the bunch may be khao tod
naem kook ($13), a platter of crispy rice mixed with bits of fermented
(“sour”) sausage, ground pork, peanuts, chopped shallots and dried
chilies served with lettuce leaves to make your own wrap. Another
flavor-packed choice is nam prik ong ($12.50), aptly described by a
companion as Thai-style Bolognese sauce—main ingredients are ground pork
and tomato—but with a distinctive fish-sauce funk and moderate chili
bite. These and the other dishes can be adjusted on a 0-4 scale to suit
diners’ heat tolerance. The space is small and utilitarian, so showing
up impromptu at peak times with a big group from the country club is not
advised.

Ideal Meal: Add a Thai curry and a noodle dish to your selection of northern Thai specialties for a diverse range of tastes and textures.

Best deal: Get concentrated
flavor at minimum price with a bowl of spicy and sour coconut soup (tom
kha gai) priced as low as $5 for a small bowl.

Pro Tip:Don’t be intimidated by the menu. Go over it in advance on the website to narrow down unfamiliar choices.