No-jeok-bong, the Millenium Bell

The best way to tour in the Yu-dal Mountain is to visit the information center first to get well informed of the route. There is no entrance fee, but if you drive, you are charged for parking. There are 4 parking lots, and the fee is charged by the hour or the day. To buy a one-day ticket at 3,000 is the easiest way to give yourself enough time to look around the mountain.
The mountain has several hiking-courses, and the first one we will take is one and a half hours. It starts at the information center and will allow you to look all around the mountain.
Let’s move now to the first spot - No-jeok-bong having the Millenium Bell.

No-jeok-bong is a rocky mountain peak rising 60m above sea level, standing at the left of the information center. It’s said that during the Japanese invasion in 1592 Admiral Yi Sun-sin had this peak covered with straw thatch to make the Japanese invaders to believe it was a huge stack of grain to be enough to support a much larger force. Eventually, the Japanese troops were fooled and scared away.
Walking along the path next to the No-jeok-bong, you will see the Millenium Bell celebrating the new millennium. The signboard of the bell was written by the late President Kim Dae-jung, and the bell expresses Korea’s wish for peaceful unification of South and North Koreas and harmony among the regions. The bell also indicates that Mok-po is the starting point of national railroads 1 & 2, which are transportation arteries running down the peninsula.
If you want to take a good picture of No-jeok-bong peak, taking a picture from the Admiral Yi Sun-sin statue will give a grand view of the peak. Pictures taken at night look great and have a mysterious quality thanks to the night lights.

The Millenium Bell holds a bell-tolling at noon every Saturday and Sunday, holidays, and festival occasions. After passing the bell, on the way down to the Admiral Yi Sun-sin statue and a rock called Bok-ba-wi, we will see a tree in strange shape. This is called “Da-san-mok” or “Yeo-in-mok” meaning a fertility tree or a woman tree in English respectively. The tree looks like a woman lying on her back with her legs spread. It is said a woman with no child can conceive just by looking at the tree.
Now, let’s move to the next spot the Bok-ba-wi rock and the statue of the admiral Yi Sun-sin.

Storytelling
Po-po: “Hello, We are mascots of clean city Mok-po. I’m Po-po…”
Po-mi: “and I’m Po-mi”.
Po-po: “We are going to tell you of the origin of the name No-jeok-bong
Po-mi: When Admiral Yi Sun-sin was Commander of the Left Jeolla Province, a small number of naval forces were garrisoned in his troop. While encamping in Mok-po, Admiral Yi was grappling to find a strategy to fight with his small force against the invader’s much larger force.
Admiral Yi: (in his own thoughts) Destroying the invaders’ morale is the key to defeating them…
Po-mi: “After worrying over his inferiority in numbers, he finally hit on a clever idea.
Admiral Yi had his soldiers cover a peak in the Mountain Yu-dal-san with straw thatch, so that the peak looked like a huge cache of food and stationed a small force of infantry to defend it. Upon surveying the sight, the invading Japanese mistakenly over-estimated the garrisoned force believing that the food cache to be enough to support a much larger force. So the Japanese commander, in fear of being ambushed by the Yi Sun-sin’s force, delayed his assault plans wasting time and destroying his soldiers’ morale. As a consequence, Admiral Yi could win the battle even though he was greatly outnumbered.”
Admiral Yi: “If you try to live, you will die, but if you fight to die, you will live! Defeat the enemy!”
(roaring sound)
Po-mi: Since then, the peak disguised as a huge stack of food cache has been called “No-jeok-bong” meaning “stack mountain peak” in English.
Po-po: As you see through this story, Admiral Yi Sun-sin was a brave commander with unsurpassed resourcefulness.
Po-mi: Here is the No-jeok-bong’s present for you, the sincere and bright spirit of Admiral Yi Sun-sin.

Bok-ba-wi ,Yi Sun-sin

When you come down No-jeok-bong and ascend the stairs of the opposite side, you are greeted by the statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin and a rock called Bok-ba-wi. The statue stands solidly facing the No-jeok-bong.

The Admiral Yi-Sun-sin Statue was registered as Ministry of Culture Asset No.1 in the year of 1974. Many of those who come to the Yu-dal-san Mountain pay their respects at the statue, in honor of his great loyalty and cunning strategies during the national crisis caused by Japanese invasion. Historically Mok-po was a strategic point located between the Yeong-san River and the West Sea. In 1439 King Se-jong established “Mokpo man-ho-jin,” that is, Mokpo bay camp, at the Mok-po Strait, to help fight Japanese pirates. The most famous of the battles in the Mokpo area was the Myeong-nyang battle in which the Korean national hero Yi Sun-sin won a runaway victory against the Japanese navy at the Myeong-nyang Strait. After the battle, Admiral Yi set up a bay camp at the Goha-do Island nearby the Mokpo strait, built ships, organized the naval force, and kept an eye on the invaders’ movement.
The Mokpo municipal authority annually hosts a ceremony celebrating the birth of Admiral Yi Sun-sin on the 28th of April at the statue spot and the Mo-chung-gak tower on the Go-ha-do Island.

Right next to the Yi Sun-sin Statue is a rock called “bok-ba-wi” meaning rock of luck, which looks like a praying person. It’s also called “jwi-ba-wi” meaning a rat rock since it looks like a rat looking out to the No-jeok-bong. Let’s move to O-po-dae now.

Dae-hang-nu, O-po-dae

The next destination we are heading to is Dae-hang-nu gazebo and the o-po-dae cannon place of the Joesen period.
At the top of the stairs next to the Admiral Yi Statue, the O-po-dae cannon is at the right, and the Dae-hang-nu gazebo is placed at the left. There are five gazebos including this one in the Yu-dal-san Mountain.

One of the five gazebos in the Yu-dal-san Mountain, the Dae-hang-nu means a gazebo where one waits for a crane. It was built in 1984, and from this vantage point one can clearly see Sam-hak-do island.
The O-po-dae cannon place was established in 1909 for the purpose of marking noon time for the citizens.
The first cannon was made in 1671, the 10th year of the Hyeon-jong of the Joseon Dynasty. After the Japanese annexation of Korea in 1913, the original Joseon cannon was delivered to the Japanese (authority) government and in turn were replaced by Japanese cannons. The cannon you see now is a replica of the Joseon original, and was designated Cultural Property No.138 by South Jeolla Province in 1986.

The Sam-hak-do Island, disappeared due to the thoughtless reclamation of land from the island, but was returned to its original look after 10 years of restoration work. From Dae-hang-nu you can have a clear view of the island.
The Sam-hak-do has a heartbreaking love story of a man and three girls who loved him, which you will be told soon.
Let’ move over to a monument spot, which brings back the memory of the famous national singer Lee Nan-yeong and her songs, which Mok-po is proud of.

Storytelling
Po-po: “Hello, We’re mascots of clean city Mok-po. I’m Po-p.
Po-mi: And I’m Po-mo.
Po-po: We will tell you about a legend of the Sam-hak-do, which, like Yu-dal-san Mountain, is representative of Mok-po.”
Po-mi: “Long long time ago, an elegant and handsome young man lived in the Yu-dal-san Mt. alone in order to focus on studies and training himself in martial arts.”
(E) Sound of a sword swishing… an arrow flying….
Po-mi: And three pretty girls living in the seaside village below the mountain loved the young stranger. They busied themselves with delivering water to the mountain, doing the laundry, and cooking, to express how they loved him.
(E) Girls’ giggling
Po-mi: Afraid that his ascetic practice was at stake due to the girls’ hospitality and temptations, one day the man, in a firm determination, called on the girls and asked:
man: Please leave me alone, to allow me to focus on my work and achieve my goal.
Po-mi: As truly loving him, they accepted his request and decided to leave the village, far away from him. Going aboard a boat, they waived their hands toward the hill of the mountain where the man was. Seeing them leaving, he realized he was in love as well and couldn’t bear the sadness. Rushing to the port, he shouted loudly;
Young man: Come back please…, I am sorry…
Po-mi: As if inattentive to his desperate calling, the boat kept on going. The man couldn’t let the girls go like that and shot an arrow to the boat, only to make it sink with a hole made by the arrow. He jumped into the sea to rescue the girls, but before he reached them, the three girls turned into cranes, to fly into the sky. And there rose up three Islets on the spot the cranes left. The man came back to the mountain while crying. Yet, as he looked out at the Islets, he became aware that the whole event was a test given to him by the heaven. He then and devoted himself to his practice and eventually become a great solider. This is the legend of the three crane Islets, Sam-hak-do.
Po-po: The Sam-hak-do Islets, along with the Yu-dal-san, is representative of Mok-po.
Po-mi: Don’t forget to visit these Islets which are as beautiful as the legend.

Mok-po’s Tears

When you walk up along the trail starting at the Dae-hang-nu, you will hear a song called “Mok-po’s Tears” coming from somewhere. You will soon discover the source, which is a big memorial stone. This is the Monument for “Yi Nan-yeong. It was built in 1969, to commemorate the singer Yi Nan-yeong and the writer Mun Il-seok, who consoled the Koreans’ hearts which were deep in sorrow under the Japanese suppression. Their song, “Mokpo’s Tears,” sings of the Korean ethos and sorrows during this difficult time.

In 1934, Choson daily newspaper held a contest for lyrics of traditional songs. This contest was held in order to keep Korean cultural heritage alive, even under the Japanese suppression during the occupation period. Lyrics written by Mun Il-seok, a young writer from Mokpo were chosen, and a composer, Son Mok-in, added the melody to Mun’s lyrics. It is how this song was created. ‘Mokpo’s Tears’ is still popular for Yi Nan-yeong’s beautiful voice and meaningful lyrics.

As reading the lyrics on the memorial stone and listening to the sorrow laden melodies, Koreans might feel an empathy with the deep sorrow and sufferings of their forefathers.
Now, let’s move to Dal-seon-gak Pavilion.

Storytelling
Po-po: “Hello, I’m the city Mokpo’s mascot, Po-po…
Po-mi: and I’m Po-mi.
(Music: “Mokpo’s Tears”)
Po-po: The song you’re listening to now is “Mokpo’s Tears” which was as big hit sung by the singer Yi Nan-young in the 1930’s.
Po-mi: Her real name was Yi Ok-rye, originally from Mokpo.
Po-po: She graduated Mokpo public school in 1934 and joined Tae-yang Theater Company where she started her career as a minor singer. In 1935, she made her debut in the Korean pop music scene with the song “Bul-sa-jo,” meaning a phoenix.
Po-mi: She started to win renown with the songs “Withering Youth” and “Greeting Spring,” and finally made a big hit with the song “Mokpo’s Tears” in 1935. Yi Nan-yeong continuously made many hits.
Po-mi: Her children also made musical bands named ‘Kim Sisters’ and ‘Kim Boys’ and played in Las Vegas in the United States.
Po-po: It is deeply moving to listen to Yi Nan-yeong’s hit song “Mokpo’s Tears” in the very city Mokpo, especially at the Yi Nan-yeong Memorial Stone.

Dal-seon gak Pavilion

You will see the Dal-seon gak gazebo right past the Yi Nan-yeong Monument.

Dal-seon-gak Pavilion was built in 1959 as a rest in the long distance between the Yu-dal san Mountain entrance and the Yu-seon-gak pavilion. The two letters in the name “Dal-seon” meaning ‘mastery’ and ‘Taoist hermit’ were used because the shape of the Yu-dal san Mountain looks like a dancing Taoist hermit.
The pavilion has a compass drawn on the floor. While looking out over downtown Mokpo, we can map the whole of the downtown in specific directions. You will also find a road winding through the Yudal san Mt. and Mokpo station, the last stop of the Ho-nam train line.

Let’s move to Yu-seon-gak Pavilion. On the way to Yu-seon-gak from Dal-seon-gak, there are trees like forsythias, camellias and firs lined up at the right, and the sea is seen from the left side. Accompanied by the sounds of boats horns and bird song, you feel as if you were walking in a palace by the seaside.

Yu-seon-gak Pavilion

The Yu-seon-gak Pavilion, standing half way up the Yudal san Mt., is the best viewing platform with a terrific panoramic vista of the Mok-po port, downtown, Yeong-san Lake, and the Da-do hae Archipelago.

The Yu-seon-gak Pavilion was built in 1932, 35 years after the opening of the Mokpo port. The monument of the pavilion reads that it was built to celebrate the 35th year of the port’s opening to foreign trade. However, there is another opinion that the pavilion was constructed only to meet the desire of Mokpo citizens to have a pavilion here. The building was destroyed by typhoon though, and was rebuilt using concrete in 1973. It shows the typical style of the Korean traditional building by having 3 rooms on the front and 2 rooms on the flank. The words on the tablet or were written by independence activist Hae-gon Shin Ik-hee during his visit to Mokpo in 1951.

In front of the Yu-seon-gak pavilion, stands a stone monument reading as follows:

“This is a place white clouds come to rest.
I am listening (in stillness) along with the morning star
to the whisper of the blue sea,
where three cranes peacefully sleep.”

This is composed by the late Cha Jae-seok, who devoted himself to advancing the culture and arts of Mokpo.
Next to the pavilion is an old fashion cannon which is shot on festival occasions.
We are moving to Gwan-un-gak pavilion. When you come up a hiking trail past the Yu-seon-gak pavilion, you will see the path split into two directions leading you to either Gwan-un-gak pavilion or Il-deung ba-wi rock.

Storytelling
Shin Ik-hee (1892 ~1956) was an independence activist who was born in Kyeong-gi-do Gwang-ju and served to the Korean Provisional Government in Shanghai. Shin played an important role for the provisional government serving in many ministries involving foreign, domestic affairs and legal affairs.
In order to honor his contribution to the country, in 1962, the Korean government posthumously conferred upon him the Republic of Korea Medal of the Order of Merit for Independence.

Gwan-un-gak Pavilion

We have arrived at Gwan-un-gak pavilion now. This pavilion takes the highest spot among the Yudal-san Mt. pavilions. It is a restful place where you can feel the cool, mountain breeze.

Gwan-un-gak pavilion is below ‘Il-deung bawi’ rock and has the highest location among the pavilions in the Yu-dal-san Mt.
Without any record telling the origin and the meaning of the name, it’s assumed the name is made up from two Chinese letters ‘gwan’ meaning ‘to see’ and ‘un’ meaning ‘cloud(s).’ The name is suggestive because the pavilion stands on the spot where clouds looks as if they are hovering around the mountainside on any foggy day after rain.
From the pavilion you can also have a good clear view over the Goha-do Island, which looks like a wriggling dragon at the doorway to the Mokpo port. From here you can take a picturesque photograph of the scenic Goha-do Island.

At night, Il-deung bawi rock, I-deung bawi rock, Yu-seon-gak pavilion, Nojeok-bong peak and Nak-jo-dae pavilion are lit up giving us a spectacular night time view.
The rock seen behind the Gwan-un-gak pavilion is the Il-deung bawi rock 228m above the sea level.

Ma-dang Bawi

We are now a little up from the Gwan-un-gak pavilion to see a rock called Ma-dang bawi.

The meaning of the Ma-dang bawi rock comes from ‘ma-dang’ meaning a yard and ‘bawi’ meaning a rock. The rock looks wide enough for people to take a little break there, and that’s how the rock got the name. Actually, it’s not large enough to receive many people at a time, but can still accommodate a small group of people.

There are many rocks of various shapes around the Ma-dang bawi rock, so let’s take a look at them.
Here is a rock in the shape of a standing square column. That rock looks like a wooden clog shoe with an upward point. The rock over there has a turtle look! And what name would you give to this rock? It’s called a monk rock because it’s thought to resemble an image of a monk deep in meditation sitting on the rock bottom.

Il-deung Bawi

When you come up the stone steps, about 300m up the Ma-dang bawi, you will arrive at the spot of another rock, Il-deung bawi, which is the top of the Yu-dal-san Mt.
From here, there is a commanding view of all directions, and you will be able to look down at the Samhak-do islets looking like three cranes sitting in the sea. The scene of the ferry turning around the Go-ha-do Island looks like an Oriental painting. Ap-hae-do Island is seen in northwest, and the poet Roh Hyang-nim sang that the island is invisible to those who don’t long to see it. Wol-chul san Mt. reveals its fabulous figure in the east.

Il-deung ba-wi rock is only 228 meters above sea level, atop the Yu-dal-san Mt., but it has great view of the Da-do-hae Archipelago and the many ships at sea. Take your time to overlook the spectacular scene, and take pictures of them.

Nearby Il-deung ba-wi is I-deung ba-wi. The rocks look like two athletes finishing first and second in the race into Mokpo port. Il-deung means the first, or winner, and I-deung, as you can guess, means second place. Another saying is that ‘Il-deung ba-wi’ is transformed from ‘Yul-dong ba-wi,’ as the rock looks as if dancing, or ‘yul-dong’ in Korean. ‘I-deung ba-wi’ is said to have come from ‘I-dong ba-wi’ meaning a moving rock. Besides these two rocks and many other strange looking rocks, there are other sites to see, such as a signal fire site, Dal-seong Temple, and Ban-ya Temple.
The next spots we are moving to are So-yo-jeong Gazebo and the Orchid Museum.

So-yo-jeong, Orchid Museum

Welcome to So-yo-jeong Gazebo. It has good, convenient facilities and is a good place for you to take a brief rest on the way down the mountain. A walk of 20 minutes from the So-yo-jeong gazebo will take you to a botanical garden of wild plants and an orchid museum. The museum is open from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm throughout the year. Entrance fees are 700 won for adults, 500 won for students, and 300 won for children.

Situated between Il-deung ba-wi and I-deung ba-wi, is the So-yo-jeong Gazebo. Its name means “strolling.”
So-yo-jeong Gazebo, built in 1966, is located on a very gentle hill like a plateau, so it is good for strolling. So-yo-geong gazebo is called by another name ‘Da-do-hae observatory. From here you can have a great view of the ocean and the beautiful scattered islands of the Da-do-hae Archipelago.
The Orchid museum opened in May of 1983 with about 1,300 varieties of orchids all of which are said to be derived from 288 original types. Among them, 39 kinds are native to Korea, 152 kinds are Oriental orchids, and the other 97 kinds are Occidental orchids. It is delightful to see the numerous plants displaying their own individual grace and beauty.
One thing special about this orchid museum is that it succeeded in cultivating and growing new varieties of orchids and is able sell them at low prices.

Next to the orchid museum is an outdoor sculpture park, which is said to be the first outdoor sculpture park in Korea. It was built in 1982 on land which used to be occupied by thatched-roof cottages. Now, an open-air concert hall, a fountain, and a resting place fill the area. A single thatched-roof house remains to keep the old traditional look.
The park is open from 7:30 am to 5:30 am during winter, and in summer time it’s open two hours later until 7:30 pm. Entrance fees are 1,000 won for adults, 600 won for students, and 400 won for children.
There is also a botanical garden for endangered plants at the orchid museum. You will have a chance to see 244 species of plants, some of which are designated as endangered due to environmental pollution. There are other plants which are rare to find today and designated as protected species. No entrance fee is required.

Storytelling
Orchids are currently believed to be the second largest family of flowering plants with over 25,000 species. The number of orchid species equals more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. Orchids occur in almost every habitat apart from deserts and glaciers. The great majority are to be found in the tropics, mostly Asia, South America and Central America, but they are also found above the Arctic Circle, in southern Patagonia.
Orchids are called ‘nan or ran’ in Korean and commonly classified into 3 groups, Oriental orchids, Occidental orchids, and wild orchids. The orchid species growing in Korea, China, and Japan are included in the oriental group; species growing wild in semi-tropical area like Southeast Asia, the Brazil jungle area, Mexico and Africa are classified as Occidental orchids. The species cultivated in Britain and disseminated in other regions also belong to the Occidental.