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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

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BRAKING SYSTEMS The braking systems used on motorcycles and ATVs, like virtually any type of braking system, reduce the machine’skineticenergyby transforming it into heat energy known as friction heat . Therefore, a brake is an energy-conversion device that converts the energy of motion (kinetic energy) into heat energy. Motorcycle braking is accomplished by the friction (resistance to movement) produced when a brake lining is forced against a rotating drum or disc. Friction between the linings and drum or disc serve to slow and eventually stop wheel rotation. The brakes used on motorcycles fall into two categories: Mechanical drum, sometimes called expanding shoe Hydraulic disc Motorcycle brakes commonly use either hydraulic (fluid pressure) or mechanical (cable or linkage) mechanisms to apply the brakes. Brakes, Wheel Assemblies, and Tires 1 Mechanical Drum Brakes First, let’slookatthedrum brake, sometimes called the mechanical, expanding double-shoe brake ( Figure 1 ). Generally used for rear wheels, this brake is also used on some front wheels. With this kind of brake, a backing plate that’sconnectedtothe forks holds the two brake shoes. The wheel and brake drum rotate around the brake shoes. When the rider applies the brake, a cam pushes the two semicircular shoes outward. The circle formed by the two shoes expands. When the shoes expand, they press against the rotating drum, thereby limiting its free rotation

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Remove seat and fuel tank. Consult service manual for proper removal of tank. 2. Remove left side cover and loosen the four bolts inside. Route the two 6-pin connectors between the side cover and frame as shown by the dotted line. Tighten the four bolts. (Fig 1) 3. Route 6-pin connectors under frame and up left side of engine. (Fig 2) 4. Locate the 6-pin connector next to the ignition coil. Disconnect and connect the Fuelpak 6-pin connectors in-line on the stock connector. (Fig 3) 5. Route single black wire to the front of engine and down to the horn. (Fig 4) 6. Disconnect the factory black/white wire from horn. Plug Fuelpak into horn and plug Fuelpak black/white wire to Fuelpak connector. Be sure Fuelpak connector cannot short to frame or radiator. 7. Route black and green wires to battery negative. 8. Attach Fuelpak to Fuelpak harness and mount in left side cover. (Fig 5a 49 State) (Fig 5b Caliornia Models) 9. Before reassembling the bike, make sure handlebar switch is in the engine off position and turn the key on. Fuelpak should light up. Sound the horn. If Fuelpak turns off when the horn is sounded, recheck the black wire connection on the horn and that it is connected to the correct wire from the factory harness. 10. Use supplied zip ties to hold Fuelpak wire harness away from engine. 11. Follow the service manual to reinstall the gas tank

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item