726828 CRUSTED PORT $29.95 Btld. 1999 (S = sweet) W & J Graham & Co: Vintages catalogue: Crusted Port occupies a unique niche in the fortified wine world. It is designed to appeal to Vintage Port drinkers, though it is not vintage-dated since it is a blend of two or more years. However, like Vintage Port, it is bottled quite young, so the wine continues to develop in bottle for several years. Its name comes from the 'crust' or deposit it throws while ageing; thus it must be decanted. My note: Rich and intense. Perfect for after dinner on its own, or with crème brulee or nuts. Score: 89/100.

597484 RIESLING SPÄTLESE 1998 $22.95 QmP, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle, Estate Bottled (M = medium dry) Weingut Mades, Mittelrhein, Germany: VC: No other region in Germany makes such a wide selection of racy Rieslings as the Mittelrhein but products on offer outside this tiny district are rare as hen's teeth. The small Mades winery (only 2.5 ha) is a perfect microcosm of the region. The yields are low (48 hl/ha) and the grapes grow on south-facing, extremely steep, slatey slopes. The finished wines show a beautiful balance between lush fruit and crisp acids. They also tend to be very long-lived. Food match: steamed pickerel, stir-fried chicken with plum sauce. My note and score: A touch of sweetness is beautifully balanced by mouth-watering acidity. This is a divine wine. Score: 92/100. Favorite White Wine

568634 RIESLING 2002 $ 13.95 Bird Label, QbA (MD) Weingut Lingenfelder Pfalz, Germany: A wine that comes back year after year into the stores because it's so popular. A lip-smacking delicious white that would be wonderful with Asian and spicy dishes. Score: 89/100. Best Value White Wine

January 8: Red Wines

975359 NATIVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001 $18.95 Maipo Valley, Chile (D = dry) Viña Carmen: Vintages catalogue: Winemaker Matìas Lecaros was one of our special guests at the Young Winemakers event in Toronto in November 2003. Organic wines, such as this one, are becoming increasingly popular in the market place as more and more people embrace healthy lifestyles. Our Quality Assurance laboratory has determined that this wine contains 10 ppm of free sulfur. My note: Very full-bodied, almost liqueur-like in its jammy red fruit. Score: 84/100.

651117 SANTENAY 1ER CRU 2001 $52.95 AC, Les Gravières Burgundy, France (XD) Domaine de la Pousse d'Or/Patrick Landanger: There's always one wine I hesitate to recommend because I'd like some for myself. Then, bravely, I set aside such selfish desires and continue down the path of the higher good of readers everywhere. Gag! I'll race you to the store for this one. Lovely, silky red with exotic perfume of wet violets and cherries and unfulfilled desire. Score: 91/100. Favorite Red Wine

708750 'CUVÉE EXCELLENCE' 2002 $18.95 Mas des Bressades, AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhone, France (XD) Cyril Marès, Prop. Made from the syrah grape, which is another name for shiraz. This style is more Old World, bursting with red plums and cedar notes. Some grip on the palate. Drink 2005-2008. Score: 87/100.

940965 'BERONIA' GRAN RESERVA 1995 $32.95 DOC Rioja (D) Bodegas Beronia: VC: This wine is made from classic Rioja grapes Graciano and Mazuelo. Graciano, one of the great grapes of the wine world, is virtually unknown due to its low yields and susceptibility to powdery mildew. Thus, any wine that features it in the blend (it represents 87% here) is well worth rooting out. The wine was aged for 30 months in American oak plus several years in bottle prior to release. Food match: lamb chops with mint sauce, grilled angus beef steaks. My note: Mouth-watering red that smells very Ralph Lauren: old saddles, spice and the stable where Sven the hulky farm hand awaits. Score: 89/100.

430 LBV PORT 1999 $25.95 Unfiltered, Late Bottled Finish, Btld. 2003 (S = sweet) José Maria da Fonseca & Van Zeller, Portugal: VC: This Port is a joint venture between J.M. da Fonseca, known primarily for table wine (see José de Sousa, 396689) and sweet wines from Setúbal (see 'Alambre' Moscatel, 357996), and Christiano van Zeller, the former driving force behind the exceptional Quinta do Noval Ports. Because this product is neither filtered nor fined, there will be sediment. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours before opening then carefully transfer the contents into a decanter. Unlike conventional LBVs, this version can actually improve in bottle for 3+ years. My note: Great price for a rich, hot, concentrated port. Try with roasted nuts. Score: 88/100.

January 22: White Wines

596577 CHARDONNAY 2000 $15.95 Barrel Aged, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario (XD) Mountain Road Wine Company: Vines Buyers' Guide to Canadian Wine 2003: Another newbie on the Niagara wine scene, former grape grower Steve Kocsis has switched titles to wine producer. His first vintage is modeled after a Burgundian-styled Chardonnay that places more emphasis on the fruit than on the oak. Opens with notes of pineapple, pears with a hint of flinty mineral. On the palate, there's enough acidity to balance the oak. Nice flavors of pineapple and green apple with soft layers of toasted oak. My note: Who knew? yet another upstart from Niagara, and one that's making very nice wines right out of the gate. Aromas of spicy apples and pears. Lovely balance. Score: 89/100.

650879 MERITAGE 2001 $24.95 Black Sage Vineyard, VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. (XD) Sumac Ridge Estate Winery: VC: This Silver Medal award winner at the 2004 All Canadian Wine Awards in Windsor, Ontario, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Black Sage Vineyard, a desert area located in the southern part of the Okanagan, is quickly developing a reputation for producing some of the finest wines from the Bordeaux grapes in Canada. Food match: grilled lamb, beef stir-fry. My note: A rich red of great balance. Ripe red fruit. Medium- to full-bodied. A consistently good producer from this region. Score: 87/100.

652958 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1999 $14.95 El Dorado, Estate Bottled (D) Jodar Vineyards & Winery: VC: Jodar Vineyards and Winery was created in 1985 by lighting the fuse of a stick of dynamite. Actually, it was a lot of dynamite, because they had to blast a granite hillside in order to create their vineyards. Their first vintage was the stellar 1990 which was created outdoors because the winery building was not finished in time. The producers recommend matching this wine with Portabello and Polenta Gratin. For the recipe go to www.jodarwinery.com. My note: A simple, full-bodied rich red. Score: 86/100.

597773 BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2002 $43.95 AC, Les Bressandes (XD) Pierre Ponnelle, Négoc.: VC: The great 2002s are now starting to hit our shores. This example has a nose that is reminiscent of classic Pinot Noir aromas such as cherry, beetroot, and earth tones. This dry, warm and supple version is quite fruit-forward and will reward early enjoyment. However, there is definitely enough structure to support short-term cellaring (1-3 years). My note: Oaky and robust PN with earthy aromas, dark cherries. Drink 2006-2009. Score: 89/100.

722470 ORNELLAIA 2001 $159.95 DOC Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Tuscany, Italy (XD) Tenuta dell'Ornellaia: VC: One of the true greats from the era when this wine was known as one of the 'Super Tuscans', Producers such as Ornellaia pushed the envelope in Tuscany so creatively that a new DOC was established to accommodate it. My note: As overpriced as a Lamborghini, but where are you going to find that styling? So, if that extra bit is worth the $100 premium, go for it. You won't be disappointed. Score: 94/100.