Review Preview: Taqueria los Tarascos

The lamb barbacoa at Taqueria los Tarascos is served in a small chafing dish. The little blue flame heating the bowl of meat gutters as your server carries it to the table. You remove the lid from the chafing dish, releasing a puff of lip-smackingly savory steam, and there, inside, is a half-pound of slowly, s-l-o-w-l-y cooked meat, utterly unadorned.

The meat is tender and slightly fatty, the flavor undeniably lamb: rich, with a gamy tang. You fold chunks of meat and, in my case, a heavy spoonful of the restaurant's sharp and spicy salsa verde, into a warm, soft flour tortilla, and repeat until the chafing dish is empty and you swear you won't be able to eat again for a week.

Which is fortunate, because Taqueria los Tarascos' lamb barbacoa is available only on the weekend.

Look: You can dig your car out of the snow tomorrow, or you can settle in front of your laptop and read what I think about Taqueria los Tarascos.