Greg Long crowned Big Wave World Champion

March 26, 2013

Updated Aug. 21, 2013 1:17 p.m.

1 of 6

Greg Long rides a big wave during the Pico Alto event last year, coming in second place. Long, of San Clemente, was crowned Big Wave World Champ on Saturday at the Surfing Heritage Foundation. ZUMAPRESS.com

1 of 6

San Clemente surfer Greg Long signs autographs at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on Saturday night, where he was crowned Big Wave World Champion. RUSTY GIBSON, BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR

1 of 6

San Clemente surfer Greg Long, on right, with his family, after being crowned Big Wave World Champion at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on Saturday night. RUSTY GIBSON, BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR

1 of 6

San Clemente surfer Greg Long was crowned Big Wave World Champion at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on Saturday night. RUSTY GIBSON, BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR

1 of 6

San Clemente surfer Greg Long gives a speech after being crowned Big Wave World Champion at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on Saturday night. RUSTY GIBSON, BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR

1 of 6

San Clemente surfer Greg Long with Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz, after being crowned Big Wave World Champion at the Surfing Heritage Foundation on Saturday night. RUSTY GIBSON, BIG WAVE WORLD TOUR

Greg Long rides a big wave during the Pico Alto event last year, coming in second place. Long, of San Clemente, was crowned Big Wave World Champ on Saturday at the Surfing Heritage Foundation.ZUMAPRESS.com

The San Clemente surfer made it to the big screen with an acting part and stunt double role in the Hollywood film "Chasing Mavericks." He nearly drowned but continued to live another day after getting held down under massive surf at Cortes Bank.

And now, he's been crowned Big Wave World Champion, a title he claimed after receiving the most points at big-wave contests held around the world the past year – a competitive tour that invites an elite, small group of surfers who charge waves in the 30-foot and larger range.

Long, 29, received his award at the Surfing Heritage Foundation Museum in San Clemente last weekend, surrounded by friends, family and fellow surfers. He is one of the most accomplished big-wave surfers on the planet, having received the most Billabong XXL Big Wave awards through the years, and is also reigning champ of the prestigious In Memory of Eddie Aikau contest in Hawaii.

It was announced on Tuesday that he is one of five surfers in the running to win $50,000 for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award, which happens at the National Grove in Anaheim on May 3. The wave was ridden on Oct. 10 at Jaws in Hawaii.

Long, a Billabong team rider, talks about his year, and earning the World Championship title:

Q. How do you feel taking home this prestigious title?

A. Finishing off what I consider to be one of the most challenging years of my life, winning the BWWT Title feels amazing. Although my big-wave pursuit has never been about winning contests, having a tremendous amount of hard work and dedication and being recognized with such an accolade brings about a wonderful feeling of achievement.

Q. What was your most memorable moment during the contest season?

A. The wipeout in which I drowned and was rescued out at Cortes Bank happened during the middle of the North Pacific big-wave season. Immediately after, I didn't feel as if I ever wanted to surf big waves again, or know if I would mentally be able to do so. The contest at Mavericks took place less than a month after my accident. Understanding, and overcoming the mental adversities, paddling back out, and riding my first wave at the Mavericks contest was unquestionably the highlight of my season, and what I personally recognize as the greatest accomplishment of my life.

Q. Where do you see the future of big-wave surfing headed?

A. The level of big-wave paddle surfing has continually been pushed with many looking to explore the outer most limits of how big a wave one can actually paddle into. Even despite my accident at Cortes shedding significant light on the fact of how dangerous this pursuit actually is, I know the guys will likely continue on this mission. The big change will be the level of preparation along the way to ensure it is being done in the safest manner possible. This will be the greatest change in the future.

Q. What is it about big-wave surfing that draws you to that segment of the sport?

A. In my opinion, big-wave surfing is the most challenging facet of the sport. It is the greatest feeling in the world, being in the ocean when it is at its wildest states. You are removing yourself from your comfort level, into a place where you are no longer entirely in control of what's happening around you. It's from this place of vulnerability, that I feel like I can explore my greatest physical and mental capabilities. And of course, it's a heck of a lot of fun.

Q. You had a scary moment at Cortes Bank a few months ago. Looking back, what lessons have you taken away from the experience?

A. The greatest lesson to be learned, which I have always felt, is the value of safety and preparedness. The ocean is an unpredictable environment with so many elements out of your control. But at the same time, there are many variables in our control that we can use to decrease the risks that we take. Most of these happen well before we ever enter the water, like physical conditioning, equipment preparation, proper water safety training and emergency planning. I hope that my experience at Cortes will prove the importance and value of these things, as they ultimately led to my life being saved that day.

User Agreement

Keep it civil and stay on topic. No profanity, vulgarity, racial
slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about
tragedies will be blocked. By posting your comment, you agree to
allow Orange County Register Communications, Inc. the right to
republish your name and comment in additional Register publications
without any notification or payment.