As Four

Minus Kai Kühne, it was business as usual for the remaining three members of As FourAdi, Ange, and Gabiwho presented their spring 2006 collection in their "renegade" store on Broadway. Music came courtesy of Sean Lennon on baby grand, accompanied by a band called Meta Four, which performance artist Michael Portney formed specifically for the occasion.

The collection visited familiar territory, with one significant difference: It was rendered almost completely in denim. Pleat details on pants had an accordion-like, almost industrial feel. One pair of trousers with sheer inserts in the shape of lighting bolts at the back of the leg was more than a little bit rock 'n' roll. Drapey tops in inky-blue silk georgette, embellished with sequins and metallic laces, were among the highlights. There were lots of evening dresses on offer, the most dramatic being a floor-length piece with sheer inserts and gypsylike medallions that made their own folky music as the model walked.

Though this was a well-edited collection that showed the trio in good form, the most-exciting news was not about what was on the runway. For its new "black line," available in the store, the team has recreated its greatest hits, again in denim. Free of bells and whistles, these pieces allow the strength of the team's patternmaking to come through loud and clear.