Monday, June 09, 2008

2002 was probably the coldest, wettest, most difficult vintage in the past 20 years, but searing, parched 2003 vintage wasn't much if any easier, and given the disastrous experience I had with the 2003 Barolo last spring I approached it with considerable trepidation.

I wouldn't go so far as to say I was pleasantly surprised, but the experience wasn't as bad as I had feared it would be. The wines were, taken as a group, big and alcoholic, and many have vibrantly green tannins of the sort that denote drought-related ripening problems (and led fellow journalist Kerin O'Keefe to say she thought the vintage was worse than 2002), but I didn't find many wines that were wildly overripe. There was plum, and there was prune, and sometimes candied fruit, but there were also many wines with the more normal berry fruit flavors one expects of a red wine.

The combination of ripe berry fruit and green tannins was a bit of a surprise, until I remembered that Italian wine law allows what is called a taglio migliorativo, in other words a "blend to improve:" the winemaker can add up to 15% of a different vintage of a given wine to the wine in question, and I would not be at all surprised if many winemakers took advantage of this provision to balance the overripeness of the 2003 wines. In other words, many 2003 Brunellos have a great deal of cellar in them. Many but not all; those whose vineyards are a little cooler (and therefore less good in normal vintages) made out better, as did those who correctly guessed what was in store early in the summer (it was already hot by late May) and planned their vineyard managements accordingly.

And what does this all mean for the consumer? To be frank, 2003 is not a good vintage -- on a scale from 1 to 5 I'd give it 2.5 -- and its timing was especially bad for producers coming off an equally difficult 2002 vintage; had 2002 been better I suspect many would have channeled most of their 2003 wine into Rosso di Montalcino, which would have been a more appropriate place for it. Because even the better Brunello from the 2003 vintage is atypical, lacking (with one or two exceptions) the easy grace and elegance coupled with power that is the hallmark of Brunello, and the reason it's the flagship of Tuscan, if not Italian wines. In purchasing 2003 Brunello select with care, keeping in mind that many of the best vineyards are also those that were hit hardest by the summer sun, and therefore some of the wineries one normally considers a sure bet won't be this time.

I'm sorry to come down hard on a second consecutive vintage, but a person unfamiliar with Brunello who buys a bottle of the 2003 vintage will likely come away with a distorted view of what Brunello is all about, and this is a shame considering that some of the older but still available vintages, for example 1999 and 2001, are developing beautifully and easily explain the comment made by Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the man who developed the Chianti blend in the mid-1880s: When invited to lunch by Ferruccio Biondi Santi, the father of Brunello, he took a sip from his glass and said, "I can't make wine like that." 2004, to judge from 2004 Chianti Classico Riservas I have tasted, should be much, much closer to the mark, if not dead on.

I also tasted some 2006 Rosso di Montalcino, and was favorably impressed; people often say (correctly) that the Rosso gives a good preview of the Brunello, unless something drastic happens the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino will be a very fine wine.

Winding Down, since I wrote the above, immediately after Benvenuto Brunello, Brunellopoli -- the Brunello scandal -- has emerged, and with it the US's decision to block all Brunello that is not laboratory certified as being pure Sangiovese because anything else would be fraudulent. To be frank, I think that, had the Italians responded to the American requests for information we would not have gotten to this point, but we have and will see how things play out, while it appears that in Italy the scandal is taking different but equally serious turn, with investigators trying to find out what has become of EEU funds earmarked for the support of traditional varietals -- they seem to have vanished. At least this is what I have heard, and if substantiated corruption emerges things will get worse, while other people have told me that Non-Montalcino wineries employing the consulting enologists of the incriminated wineries in Montalcino are under investigation, and we may therefore witness a domino effect of sorts. We live in interesting times.

In any case, the wines, tasted in February 2008. They are in the order that I tasted the 2003 Brunello Base, and I have made no effort to indicate who is or is not under investigation, because with the exception of a few names that have been published, the magistrates have not named names.

Sesti53020 S. Angelo In Colle - SITel. 0577844113

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rather bitter key with balsamic notes and bitterness mingled with some sea salt and alcoholic warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate overripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense bitter acidity and tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, and flow into a clean plum-laced finish with bitter overtones and some underlying sweetness. It's stunted, somehow, and also a bit overripe, it's clearly from a hot vintage, and though the vines did their best they weren't happy, and it shows in the wine. This said, it will drink well with drier roasts because of the slight sweetness.1 star

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2001Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm acidity and dusky balsamic notes mingling with sea salt and vinous overtones. Pleasant in a traditional key, and also young. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean lemony acidity and by soft smooth tannins that flow into a clean warm tannic finish. It's quite traditional, but feels a little older than I would expect a 2001 to at this stage. Not that it's settled, because it hasn't, but the balsamic notes in the fruit are a bit more accentuated than one might expect. In any case, if you like the traditional style you will enjoy it, and it will drink nicely with rich meat dishes, for example leg of lamb.2 stars

Col D'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and pyrope rim. Close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with black currant fruit supported by warm tart acidity and berry fruit jam. Quite charged, and fresh too. On the palate it's ample and very soft, with rich smooth black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while direction comes from moderately intense black currant acidity, and it flows into a fairly fresh berry fruit finish. It's quite fresh, and atypical for a Sangiovese -- the flavors are shifted decidedly towards black currants, which I associate with a different varietal -- but will drink well with simple grilled meats and light stews, and is quite welcoming in a decidedly international key; if you like this fruit driven style you will enjoy it.2 stars

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit disjointed, with brambly cherry and plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of cedar that is doing its own thing not quite in step with the rest of the wine, and underlying hints of menthol and bitter almonds -- it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's much more together, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean bright slightly greenish tannins that have warm peppery accents, and by moderately intense vegetal acidity, while it all flows into a clean bitter finish with greenish brambly undertones. It's clearly from a hot vintage, and doesn't have the balance a better vintage has, but manages a degree of grace in a fairly direct key, and will drink well with stews or roasts. One of the more successful 2003 wines, not long on complexity or depth, but upstanding.2 stars

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2002Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some slightly brambly spice with underlying acidity. On the palate it's ample and fairly bitter, with broad sour berry fruit supported by considerable bitterness, and by tannins that are smooth and savory, flowing into a clean bitter finish. I confess I had been curious about what a 2002 Riserva might be like and this is the only one; it's a bit fuller and richer than the basic 2002 wines were last year, with more fruit and better balance, but is still at a much lower level than one would normally expect of a Brunello. In other words, it's a wine for serious wine lovers who want to know all the ins and outs of an appellation (and in that respect it does have quite a bit to say), but if you're looking for a good bottle to share with friends this isn't what I would choose.1 star

Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up alcohol and some plum aromas and greenish accents as it opens. On the palate it's full and very soft, with ample slightly sour red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and soft tannins that work from below the surface, flowing into a long warm finish. It's very lax, but not into plum. I would have preferred greater tightness, but there is some acidity to it that keeps it from floundering. Drink it with drier red meats, served with gravy.1 star

Mastrojanni53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SITel. 0577 835681

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with warm balsamic notes and some bitter brambles, but not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, with warm sour brambly fruit supported by fairly rich bitter brambly acidity and smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It manages a degree of grace, in a traditional key, but is fairly settled, and this is the vintage at work. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, and I would be tempted to give it a few years -- not more than 5 -- to see how it evolves.2 stars

Màté Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with berry fruit supported by hints of green leather and some cedar, with underlying warmth; as it opens balsamic notes also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with a smooth dusky tannic underpinning. It's clearly from a lesser vintage, but displays a certain grace in a fairly traditional key, and isn't overripe, which is good.2 stars

Mocali53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577849485

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up jammy plum fruit notes mingled with alcohol and some greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with little in the way of fruit, though there is a warm bitterness underlain by ample splintery tannins. It's weak, and I don't see further fruit emerging with time.1 star

Franco Pacenti53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577 849277

Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some balsamic notes and slight greenish accents. With underlying citric acidity, more than fruit. On the palate it's ample, and brighter than the nose would suggest, with warm slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by clean warm balsamic tannins that are smooth, though not polished, and flow into a warm slightly bitter balsam-laced sour fruit finish. It's clearly a child of a lesser vintage, but does display a certain grace in a traditional key. This said, it's not quite what one expects of a Brunello; too soft and a bit lax for a wine that should be at the outset of a long journey. But it will drink nicely with red meats now.1 star

Palazzo53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577 848479

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with balsamic accents and hints of barnyard tang mingled with some spice, bitterness, and warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderate cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and by ample sweet tannins that have a slight splintery roughness, more than burr, and flow into a clean finish. It's much softer and less incisive than I would expect a Brunello to be.1 star

La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with graceful floral accents mingled with red berry fruit and some underlying berry fruit acidity. Harmonious, and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft brambly sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a zesty youthful key, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from succulent grilled meats -- a platter of mixed meats would be nice -- through light stews and on to fried meats and vegetables. Quite nice, a lark of a wine, and if you like this bright zesty style you will like it very much.2 stars

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up vinous accents mingled with brambles, bitter greenish accents, and hardwood ash. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and greenish tannins that are blocky, with splintery overtones, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, and I'd have liked greater richness and depth to the nose, though the palate is pleasant enough in a lesser key. I'd give it another year to see if the nose catches up, and in any case drink it with succulent grilled meats that will need something to clear the palate between bites.1 star

La Gerla Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is eye opening; the first impression is strawberry gummy bears, something I don't think I have ever encountered in a wine before. With more swishing some greenish accents also emerge, but the basic imprint is unchanged. A fellow taster goggles and says, "primary," while another says concentrators can give these aromas. On the palate it's ample and softer than I had expected, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit that has strawberry overtones, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that lead into a clean berry fruit finish. It's bright, and youthful, and approachable, if you like bright rich fruit driven wines. If you're of a more sober bent it won't work as well for you, though it will in any case drink well with simple grilled or stewed meats.1 star

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by polished leather and some greenish herbal spice with underlying cedar. Nice balance in a hot weather key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight peppery warmth, and by clean sour berry fruit acidity that leads into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish with some sweet plum overtones, which are commensurate with the vintage, and greenish bitter tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and deft, and will drink nicely with foods, though I don't think I would sip it far from the table. Perhaps a well marbled porterhouse steak?2 stars

Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with almandine rim; it looks leathery somehow. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable cedar laced with sweetness and cherry plum fruit with some greenish accents, and a fellow taster says leaf tobacco. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderately intense plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a clean bitter finish with bitter accents that reach up into the back of the nose. There's a tremendous lot of oak here, and the grapes are powerful enough to (more or less) stand up to it, but they're badly overripe. If you like big soft fruit driven wines you will like it, but it's a much softer experience than I would expect from a Brunello.1 star

Tenuta Oliveto53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SITel. 0577 807170

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Brownish almandine with Moroccan Leather rim. The bouquet is eye-opening, with sweet leathery accents mingled with greenish overtones and some caramel. Not what one would expect of a Brunello; the fruit is more towards plum and there is that considerable sweetness. On the palate it's a much tighter than the nose suggests, and bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a brambly burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. To be frank, the palate was a surprise; I expected something much softer and riper than what I found, which is actually one of the brighter Brunellos of this vintage, in a direct way, and will drink well with grilled meats. But there is that nose, with its sweetness.1 star

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slight cedar and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, though very much in a lesser key, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by brambly bitterness that flows into a bitter fairly tart finish with tannic underpinning. It has a dilute feel to it, as if the grapes encountered problems ripening, and this is quite possible given the vintage. On the positive side, it isn't overripe, nor overly soft. In any case, it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.1 star

Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some acidity and slight greenish accents, with some cedar as well, but not much fruit. It brings to mind a person curled into a ball. On the palate it's ample and lax, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by clean tart berry fruit warmth and by clean cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's stunted; everything is clearly in place but the grapes from the vineyards didn't develop as fully as they do in normal vintages, and the wine therefore goes under rather than over the bar. It's therefore not a wine that I would select to drink with friends at a meal, though it's a wine that those who want to know everything about an appellation will enjoy, because vintages are not all perfect, and this is a nice rendition of something quite difficult.2 stars

Banfi Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2005Deep brassy gold with lively golden reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable clover honey that gains depth from bitter accents and is supported by greenish apricot fruit with a fair amount of green apricot acidity. On the palate it's full and voluptuously sweet, with a mix of apricot and brown sugar sweetness supported by pleasing apricot acidity that flows into a long warm finish. It's rich, in a seductive way and has quite a bit to say; it will do best with friends far from the table. I found it growing upon me, and was loath to pour it out after tasting it.90

Barbi Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is muted, though some dusky aromas emerge, mingled with greenish vegetal accents and some fresh leather, with some hot milk acidity as well. Not much fruit, and I'd have expected some given the youth and the vintage. On the palate it's ample, with moderate generic berry fruit that quckly surrenders to fairly intense bitterness that flows into a decidedly bitter finish with some penetrating accents. I'd have liked greater richness and fruit than I found; it's settled.1 star

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is wan, with a fair amount of balsamic acidity mingled with hints of wet horse, menthol, and underlying sour cherry fruit. It's not overripe, but seems soft. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate berry fruit that settles into balsam that isn't even warm, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and it flows quickly into a soft tannic finish. I'd have expected greater depth and richness even from a difficult vintage.1 star

Castelgiocondo Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent cut flowers mingled with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and dusky underbrush. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with lasting underlying bitterness. Pleasant, in a direct, lively fruit driven key, and will drink nicely with quickly grilled meats, light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables; I might be tempted by fired lamb chops. It's the sort of wine one can open when the wine won't be the center of attention, and one may want another.2 stars

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bright berry fruit with some jammy accents supported by deft berry fruit acidity and what I feel as hardwood ash, and a fellow taster calls ripe banana. Direct, but fresh. On the palate it's equally direct, in a rather lax key, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet lax tannins -- they seem to spread out in all directions -- while the finish is clean and citric with bitter overtones. It's pleasant enough in a simple direct key, and though I don't find it completely typical of Brunello -- there's something about the character of the fruit -- it will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or light stews.2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean slightly greenish balsamic acidity mingled with berry fruit and dusky underbrush. Nice balance in a traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory accents and sea salt, with underlying tannic bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's fairly direct, in a traditional key, and if you enjoy this slightly more austere style it will work well with simple grilled or roasted meats, and also with light stews. I don't think there's enough acidity for it to work with fatter meats or fried foods.2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some coffee grounds and bitter accents mingled with spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tart berry fruit finish with a cedary tannic underpinning with mineral overtones. The palate is pleasant enough in a fairly direct, up front key, but the nose is shut down; I would give it at least a year in hopes that the nose will develop. It will in any case drink well with succulent meats, including a porterhouse cut grilled rare.2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato delle Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Close to poured ink. The bouquet is muted, with same balsamic accents and savory spice and hardwood ash, with some bitter vegetal accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky greenish burr. It's ample, and softer than one would expect of a young Brunello, with not that much room to age. I would have liked a brighter, register than I found, but this is the vintage at work.1 star

Podere Paganico Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2005Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some Moroccan leather with underlying spice. On the palate it's fresh, in a fairly light key, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitter greenish acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish. It feels dilute, and is a bit of a disappointment. It will in any case drink well with quickly cooked meats, either off the grill or in simple sauces, and also with hearty pasta dishes and vegetable based entrees.1 star

Podere Paganico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections; it's poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense vinous accents mingled with nose-tingling spice and cedar, with underlying fairly rich berry fruit and bitter accents. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery greenish burr, and flow into a clean slightly greenish tannic finish. It's richer and defter than many of the 2003s, and has a pleasing balance of fruit and structure, though it's obviously greener than a more balanced vintage would be. This said, it will drink quite nicely with grilled meats, for example a porterhouse cut, and will also be nice with succulent roasted meats.2 stars

Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish sour cherry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity and some polished leather. Pleasant, and rather inviting in a fresh, bracing way. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish that gains depth from greenish accents. Graceful, and will drink nicely with hearty pasta dishes, up through lasagna, and will also be quite nice with grilled meats, including poultry with its skin. Worth seeking out, and you may want a second bottle.2 stars

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and red brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nose-tingling acidity supported by some bitter accents and underlying coffee ground bitterness with underlying red berry fruit and deft slightly greenish acidity. On the palate it's richer than the nose, and also much more delicate, with clean fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean moderately intense mineral acidity and by clean crisp tannins that flow into a fairly bitter fruit laced finish. It's interesting, and I found myself taking a second sip; I would give it a year or two to get its balance, because it will improve, and drink it with succulent red meats. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by greenish jam that almost brings pepper jam to mind, and clean hints of green leather. Pleasant, and fairly rich. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean def cherry and forest berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and rather soft, flowing into a clean almost peppery berry fruit finish. It's a bit lax with respect to a more normal vintage, but displays a certain grace and will drink nicely with red meats or stews, and I found myself enjoying it. One of the better 2003s so far.2 stars

Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of what a fellow taster calls caramel, and makes me think of cola -- a wood- fruit interaction in any case. With more swishing bitter accents also emerge, and hints of hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample, with frankly soft berry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity that resolves into plum, while the tannins are smooth and soft, and flow into a clean plum finish. It's a deft use of a lot of oak, and if you like this big soft overripe style you will perhaps enjoy it, but I'd prefer more depth and backbone even from an oaked Brunello. An extreme vintage taken to extremes (of wood) in the cellar doesn't necessarily work.1 star

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense herbal accents, a mixture of cedar and shellac with underlying mint and fairly intense vanilla driven spice. Not much fruit, though there is some caramel, from wood most likely. On the palate it's full, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft cedary bitterness, and is supported by smooth greenish tannins that have decidedly peppery overtones -- a combination of the green tannins from the grapes and the sweet spicy tannins from wood -- that flow into a broodingly bitter -- almost quinine -- tannic finish with some cherry and plum overtones. It's elegant, in a thoroughly overripe key, and if you like this ample wood-driven style you will enjoy it. They obviously did what they could with what came in from the vineyard, and the results, within this context, are quite good in a heavily oaked key. To enjoy it you have to like this style.2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and candied fruit with underlying polished leather, with underlying warmth and hints of balsam. Not clean, and after a fellow taster points it out I note meat sauce. On the palate it's medium bodied, and soft, in a sadly flat way, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by lax tannins that lead into a clean bitter finish. It's lacking in both richness and brightness, and the fruit is less ripe on the palate than I might have hoped; as a consequence the wine is lean as well.1 star

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and red berry fruit supported by dusky graphite acidity and underlying cedar that has some savory accents. Nice balance, and rich. On the palate it's ample and smooth, and a bit softer than I might have expected from the nose, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have warm bitter accents and flow into a clean bitter finish with warm savory bitter accents and underlying berry fruit. Pleasant, and though it is clearly a hot weather wine it displays a degree of grace, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats or hearty stews, and also has the capacity to age for a few years -- at least 5.2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigneto Manachiara Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and smoky, with powerful hardwood ash and spicy plum berry fruit that has some jammy sweet accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful red berry fruit that has some jammy accents, supported by slightly greenish acidity, and by full tannins that despite a degree of sweetness also have a warm peppery burr that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's very young, and though not too complex -- there's the directness of youth -- it displays a pleasing vibrant vitality that will go quite nicely with rich stews or other hearty meat dishes in the short term, and will also age nicely too. I enjoyed it.2 stars

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and cedar laced, with bitter hardwood ash as well, and some greenish accents as well. Charged, in a woefully young key. On the palate it's ample, and a bit better integrated though still very much a child, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean cedar-laced tannins and underlying bitterness that flow into a warm, tart, bitter finish. A big toddler, but a toddler just the same; it needs time, at least a year and perhaps two before it will be even remotely drinkable, and I think it will also age nicely over the next 5-10 years and maybe more. If you must drink it now, drink it with something flavorful, for example stewed venison or a well seasoned roast leg of lamb. But I would give it time, because it will climb.2 stars

Lambardi53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577 848476

Lambardi Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some hardwood ash, and underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by dry splintery tannins that flow into a clean dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater depth and fullness than I found though it is very young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings. I'd have liked more tightness to the fruit, which is a bit overripe and veering towards plum (though not there).1 star

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory spice and some medicinal accents, and underlying greenish eucalyptus with nose tingling spice as well. On the palate it's fresh, and more along than the nose, though still a bit unsettled; there's moderately intense lacy sour cherry fruit supported by warm bitter accents and fairly rich, cedar-laced tannins that seem more large than small wood, and flow into a clean sour finish with a greenish tannic underpinning. It's obvious that the grapes didn't ripen as well as they would in a more balanced your, the wine has an angriness to it but will drink well with rich flavorful red meats that will profit from its anger, which will do a fine job of clearing the palate between bites. It will also age nicely for a number of years, smoothing, though I doubt that the anger will ever completely fade.2 stars

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a slightly rustic key, with bitter balsamic acidity and underbrush mingled with wet leaves and saddle leather. Not quite as clean as it might be. On the palate it's ample, and rather lax, with full fairly rich berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that gain direction from some bitterness, and flow into a fairly soft, almost sweet berry fruit finish with underlying greenish bitterness. It's not overripe, but it is unusually soft and lacks the tight definition ne finds in more normal vintages; because of its size and softness it will drink best with drier meats.1 star

Lisini Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by clean greenish accents and some citric spice; the overall impression is quite graceful. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich ripe cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and smooth slightly dusky tannins that flow into a clean soft berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a clean serious (for want of a better term) key, and it will drink very well with simple grilled meats or light stews. Quite approachable, and will go quickly; you may want a second bottle.2 stars

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar with nose tingling spice as well. Not much fruit at the outset, though some red berry fruit does emerge with time, as does enticing rosemary. On the palate it's brighter and better integrated than the nose, with rich lively cherry fruit that gains elegant direction from clean sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins tat flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It's a babe and needs time for the nose to come together and flesh out -- a year at least and perhaps two. When it does it will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats, including thicker cuts such as porterhouse steak, and also be nice with flavorful meats. Venison or wild boar, for example. But do give it time.88-90

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and greenish brambly accents that provide richness and depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from lively slightly greenish sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth deft tannins that have a lively peppery burr that carries through into the finish, which is fairly long and fruit laced. Graceful, in a young zesty key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also with hearty pasta dishes or flavorful vegetable dishes, for example a kale farinata (classic Tuscan peasant food). Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another.2 stars

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense cedar mingled with some red berry fruit and underlying spice. It's in mid stride, and feels like it's still developing. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. Graceful, though very young, and will benefit from at least a year or perhaps two; it will drink nicely with succulent red meats and be quite versatile within this genre, but you need to give it time. It will also age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some leather and hints of milky acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and very ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by clean plum acidity and ample smooth tannins that flow beneath the surface, flowing into a clean slightly greenish plum finish. It's bigger and softer than I would have expected of a 2006 Rosso, and this leads me to think that they overripened the grapes intentionally in search of phenolic ripeness. If you like big soft rather overripe wines you will like it, but I prefer greater tightness and spine.1 star

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Brownish almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. Looks old for a 2003. The bouquet is dusky, with moderate balsamic acidity and some candied cherry fruit. On the palate it's bitter, with moderate berry fruit supported by smooth decidedly bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish with some plum acidity. It's weaker than I might have liked, and very much reflects the vintage.1 star

Agostina Pieri53020 Castelnuovo Abate -SITel. 0577 375785

Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with almandine reflections and black highlights, and almandine paling to onion skin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly tart, with brambly cedar and some warmth, and nose-tingling acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample in a frankly overripe key, with plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by tannins that have a clean fairly sweet burr and flow into a sweet plum finish with tannic underpinning. It's overripe, and softer than one might necessarily hope for. Because of this softness, it will be best with drier meats.1 star

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is ample and gives an impression of laxness, with Moroccan leather and some balsamic notes, underlain by moderate acidity, and savory sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft with fairly intense plum fruit supported by moderate plum acidity, and by ample tannins that are very smooth, and flow into a clean soft plum finish. It's well made, but heat struck, and because of its softness will drink well with drier meats. If you like big soft very ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it.2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with brownish accents in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some green leather and slight alcoholic spice laced with hints of plum jam. It's like shining a flashlight into a darkened room. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by warmth and bitterness, while the tannins are large and soft, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. It's a child of the vintage, and as is the case with many other children of this vintage, lost a few pieces by the wayside.1 star

Capanna53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577 848298

Capanna Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is clean, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some jammy overtones and black currants as well. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with rich black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there is also some delicate greenish acidity. It's a bit unusual for a Sangiovese; I associate currants of this intensity with another varietal, but it will in any case drink well with simple fairly dry meats -- it's soft enough that I wouldn't drink it with something really fatty. If you like ample smooth fruit driven wines you will like it, though it you are of a more traditional bent you may not.1 star

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour cherry plum fruit with some balsamic accents and slight bramble. Hot weather. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly dry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinctly cedary burr and flow into a tannic finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, and the grapes clearly didn't come into the cellar perfect; one does what one can with what one has.1 star

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some smoky accents with underlying balsam and nose tingling spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, but in a rather overripe key, with fairly rich forest berry fruit supported by tart acidity that has some greenish accents, and by bright splintery tannins that flow ino clean rather green tannic finish with some leathery accents. It's a bit disjointed, but does have a lively brightness that will make it drink well with succulent red meats. But it doesn't have the richness or depth of a better vintage, especially on the nose.1 star

Caprili Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2007Brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with sweetness and some honeydew melon and an underlying pungency that adds definition. On the palate it'd full and quite sweet, with moderately intense honeydew melon supported by so much sweetness one can almost feel sugar crystals traipsing across the tongue; what keeps it from being cloying is a slight vegetal bitterness that gives it depth and definition, and it flows into a sweet finish with some banana accents. It's very sweet, and you have to like this style to like it. I found it a little too sweet, but my point of reference is Vinsanto, which tends to be a bit drier.1 star

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory accents and Moroccan leather with some underlying plum fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, in a decidedly overripe key, with plum fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and very smooth tannins that have bitter accents and flow into a bitter, rather savory finish with cedar-laced tannic underpinning. Because of its softness it will drink best with drier meats.1 star

Donna Olga53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577849314

Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections; it looks younger than many of the wines. The bouquet is moderately rich, with fairly intense slightly greenish bitter accents, some dried orange skin, but not much in the way of fruit at the outset, though some plum emerges with time. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright acidity, and by strongly cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish with a decidedly marked cedary underpinning. It's quite young, in a fairly direct international key, and needs another year to fall into place, at which point it sill drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or roasts. If you like this bright youthful style you will enjoy it.2 stars

Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim; it's close to poured ink and looks dark for a Rosso. On the palate it's full, with cherry plum fruit supported by some mentholated greenish accents and some candied fruit; there's also something undefined about it. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish cedar and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean greenish finish. It's pleasant, in a more traditional key than many, and also needs time for the nose to finish coming together -- another year. I found myself wanting greater definition than I found.1 star

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish accents in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with candied berry fruit supported by brambly bitterness and underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, and warm, with fairly bright greenish berry fruit supported by tart citric warmth and greenish bitter tannins that flow into a warm slightly green decidedly tannic finish with peppery spice. It's a bit out of kilter, and this is the vintage at work; it will in any case drink well with grilled meats, hearty stews, and similar. Expect it to age well, gaining depth and complexity, though the imprint of the vintage will remain.1 star

Il Poggione Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2007Pale brassy gold with brassy highlights and fine white perlage that rings the glass. The bouquet is rich, heady even, with powerful honeydew melon charged with clover honey and supported by elegant greenish accents with a terrific volume of underlying sugars. Seductive, one of those wines that invites dirty thoughts. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful honeydew melon fruit that's kept from being cloying by some slightly greenish acidity, and flows into a long honeysuckle finish. It does have a certain affinity with Asti, but by comparison with most Asti is richer and more voluptuous. Seductive, and if you like sweet sparkling wines you will like it very much.2 stars

La Togata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Impenetrable black almandine with brownish reflections and brick red rim; it looks leathery somehow. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nose-tingling spice and cherry plum fruit with some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and splintery tannins that gain depth from a degree of sweetness, and flow into a fairly sweet plum finish with bitter tannic underpinning. It's ample and soft, aand very much a child of the vintage; because of its softness it will drink well with drier meats, though I wouldn't keep it overlong.1 star

Fuligni Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing bring sup some berry fruit supported by slight greenish acidity. Delicate, and in mid stride. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful red berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity with some cherry jam overtones, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish. It' sin mid stride, but quite promising, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, while there's also sufficient backbone for fried meats and vegetables as well. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a dusky, with some cedar laced with warmth and hardwood ash; the combination brings ripe bananas to mind, and there is also some underlying greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by deft greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a decidedly tart greenish plum finish with powerful tannic underpinning. The grapes ran into problems with ripening during the summer and they carry though into the wine. This said, because of its green aggressiveness, it will drink well with fattier roasts or hearty stews.1 star

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards brown. The bouquet is powerful, with eye-opening greenish herbal aromas mingled with petroleum and a fair amount of alcohol and acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful greenish berry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity that has an undercurrent of iodine bitterness, and flows into a clean decidedly bitter finish. Something happened in the vineyard with the ripening of the grapes, and it carried through into the finish.1 star

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rustic, with considerable balsam mingled with wet horse and some underlying wet stable straw that is supported by some smoky notes as well. Particular, and you have to like the style. On the palate it's ample, and both softer and riper than I might have expected from the nose; there's fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean plum acidity that has some lactic overtones, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum-laced tannic finish. I found it overripe, and also found myself wishing for greater tightness than is present in either the fruit overtones the tannins.1 star

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim paling to onion skin. Looks old. The bouquet is rustic, with warm balsamic notes mingled with saddle leather and tart acidity, with some bitter graphite shavings as well. A bit disjointed, and penetrating as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit that gains depth from a degree of sweetness, and is supported by smooth lightly balsamic tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It has an odd laxity to it, and the bitterness has a slightly disquieting pungency to it.1 star

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with almandine rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and one-track, with a tremendous concentration of cedar mingled with some greenish accents and some shellac, while there are also underlying sugars. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter oaky finish. Wine meets a barrel salt, and the two fight to a standstill; there must have been a tremendous amount of fruit to the wine because it manages to balance the oak, and though neither seems set to give in we may come to a point where they both settle in the next 3-5 years. It's very much a creature of a long hot vintage, and within this context will drink best with succulent roasts or stews.1 star

Il Palazzone53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577 835678

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim tending towards onion skin. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a fair amount of alcohol laced with balsamic acidity and dried orange peel mingled with warmth and hints of rhubarb. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with jammy plum rhubarb fruit supported by dusky tannins that have clean bitter accents and flow into a clean bitter finish with candied plum overtones with hints of caramel that are from oak. It's overripe, and rather languid, and this is the vintage at work.1 star

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some hardwood ash, brambly greenish vegetal accents, and underlying warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and brighter than I expected from the nose, with fairly rich lively cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that lay a splintery burr over the tongue and flow into a clean tart finish with greenish accents. The palate is better developed and more interesting than the nose, and I found myself enjoying the brightness of the fruit, which will work well with grilled meats. Pleasant, if you like this rather sassy style, though it's not typical of a more balanced Brunello vintage.2 stars

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and penetrating with sandalwood and greenish accents underlain by bitterness and shellac. Not much fruit; rather chemical accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by bitter acidity and tannins that bring coffee grounds to mind, and flow into a clean bitter finish with mineral acidity.1 star

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and vinous, with greenish herbal accents and quite a bit of alcohol supporting cherry plum fruit that's quite rich, with underlying cedar too. Charged in a hot weather key, but pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by considerable vinous warmth and bracingly sour cherry fruit acidity coupled with tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's very much alive, and will drink well with succulent red meats or hearty stews, though it's not something I would consider far from the table. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Vasco Sassetti Rosso Di MontalcinoDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly herbal, with rich greenish accents supported by some grapefruit acidity and bitter smoky accents and some hazelnut spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense, generic berry fruit supported by warm slightly bitter tannins that have savory accents and hints of cedar; the initial impression is that it's flatter and more settled than one would expect of a young Rosso, but it gains in depth with subsequent sips, leading me to conclude that it is very young and needs time to come together -- another year. It will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will age nicely for 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.2 stars

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with balsamic notes and shellac supported by airy nose tingling spice and some mineral acidity, with some petroleum too. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with not much fruit, supported by tannins that are cedar-laced and flow into an oaky tannic finish.1 star

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a smoky key, with greenish accents and some spice mingled with plum fruit that has candied fruit overtones and slight dried orange peel, underlain by hints of shellac. On the palate it's ample, with richer fruit than I expected, rather tart cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity that has dusky greenish accents, and is supported by smooth bitter tannins that flow into a fairly rich savory finish. It's a child of the vintage, but I found myself rather enjoying it, and think it will drink nicely with grilled meats or hearty stews.2 stars

Fattoi Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with delicate mentholated notes mingled with spice and hints of green leather, and some red berry fruit with underlying floral accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. It's direct, and up front, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.1 star

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with considerable balsamic acidity laced with wet horse and some greenish accents, and underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and fairly tart, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that has sour balsamic notes as well, supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm savory balsamic finish. It's ample and rustic in a hot vintage key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.1 star

La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with candied plum fruit supported by some caramel and greenish accents with hints of balsam and some hot iron. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains fullness form a degree of sweetness, and is supported by moderately intense tart plum acidity, while the tannins are smooth and rather bitter, and flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. Because of its softness and the relative sweetness of the fruit it will drink well with drier meats.1 star

La Poderina Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2006Brassy yellow with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with honeysuckle and sugar mingling with greenish vegetal accents that provide direction, and candied melon peel as well, mingled with honeydew melon. On the palate it's full, glossing the lips with sweetness, and with elegant candied honeydew melon that gains depth from ripe pineapple warmth, and flow into a clean rich sweet finish that gains depth from (I think) noble rot -- Montalcino isn't known for it, but it can happen. Great depth, and if you like sweet wines you will very much enjoy it far from the table, with friends or in the company of a good book and a fire. Well worth seeking out..88-90

Pian Dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leather mingled with delicate dried flowers and -- a fellow taster says, milk and gunpowder -- with deft underlying cedar and slightly candied plum fruit. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from bright acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that are fairly soft, and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish that lasts and lasts. Pleasant, and though it is a bit brasher than a Brunello normally is, it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for a number of years.2 stars

Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Impenetrable pyrope ink with deep black cherry rim. It's several shades darker and more purple than the vast majority of the 2003 wines. The bouquet is intense, with warm cedar and polished leather with some underlying warmth and hints of hazelnut. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and cavernous, with moderately intense tart sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins that work from below the surface, and are not as cedary as I expected them to be, and it all flows into a clean tannic finish with savory accents and lasting warmth. It's overlarge, with more structure than fruit, and as a result feels rather empty.1 star

Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderately intense ripe red berry fruit supported by delicate spice and some polished leather with underlying alcohol and warmth. On the palate it's full and fairly bright, with ripe sour cherry fruit supported by clean tart cherry acidity, and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's quite brash, in a youthful way, and though it doesn't' have the tannic structure one normally associates with a Brunello, within the context of this vintage it is quite successful, and in ant case it will drink well with succulent, flavorful red meats. If I had two bottles I might also be tempted to set one aside, because there is sufficient acidity fot it to age well, and it may do interesting things with time..2 stars

Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna DOCG 2003Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and by rim; it's considerably darker than the basic Brunello, and also more towards purple in color. The bouquet is frankly savory at the outset, with sea salt mingled with polished leather, some cedar, and underlying alcohol; as it opens some delicate plum fruit mingled with apple seeds also emerges, but barely. On the palate it's ample, and cavernous, with moderately intense plum fruit that gains direction from sour plum acidity, and is supported by smooth tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a clean warm finish. The fruit isn't really big enough to occupy the structure, and as a result the wine feels a bit empty.1 star

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather greenish key, with green leather supported by some menthol and a fair amount of alcohol with underlying savory accents and warmth. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by bitter greenish leather-laced sour plum acidity and by ample fairly sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour tannic finish with hot milk acidity that carris at length. It's not as bright, nor as rich as a better vintage would be, and I think this is likely because the grapes suffered the heat and had trouble ripening fully.1 star

Campogiovanni Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with a great unexpected rush of petroleum laced with greenish camphor that covers all. Unusual. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity, and by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly dry berry fruit finish. I'd have expected greater depth and richness to a Rosso, especially one from a promising vintage.1 star

Canneta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up hints of hot milk and polished leather with slight greenish berry fruit underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with fairly weak generic berry fruit supported by moderate lacy acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. It's a child of the vintage, and that's all one can say.1 star

La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is overripe and a bit disjointed, with greenish sour berry-plum fruit supported by hardwood ash and bitter cedar with some polished leather as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and underlying cedar-laced tannins that lay an angry peppery burr over the tongue. It's very much a toddler, and an angry one at that, and also a child of the vintage. A difficult combination, and I would give it a year to get its bearings.1 star

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and tannins that are warm and smooth, and flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Direct, in a ripe round key.1 star

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetish cedar supported by cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate greenish acidity and underlying polished leather. It gives an impression of softness. On the palate it's full, with elegant slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity that has a slight milky feel to it, and by ample sweet tannins that are slightly balsamic, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with underlying balsamic acidity. It's pleasant, in a fairly traditional, and slightly lax key; it's clearly the product of a hot vintage and doesn't have the definition nor the incisiveness that one finds in more balanced years, but I found myself rather enjoying it.2 stars

Ferrero53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SITel. 0577844170

Ferrero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with a rush of greenish, well, diesel fuel, supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity that has slightly leathery accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour finish with some gerbil accents and splintery tannic underpinning. It's very much a child of the vintage, but displays a certain grace, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats.1 star

Il Paradiso Di Manfredi Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Looks very young, and is surprisingly deep for a Sangiovese. The bouquet is intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by some sweetness and hints of gum Arabic with polished leather and some underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful fairly sweet forest berry fruit that gains direction from lively red currant acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that lead into a clean bright tart berry fruit finish. It's quite charged, and quite approachable, in a rather lusty way; it brings a starlet to mind and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; if you like this big, zesty fruit driven style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer greater balance and austerity, it won't work as well for you. In any case, takes no quarter.2 stars

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003Deep brownish almandine with brown black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is tired, with pungent lactic acidity and the sharpness of a moldy orange; these are aromas I generally associate with overy old dirty wood, but in this case are more likely related to the grapes that came into the cellar. As it opens, they fade, to reveal warm balsam, which is better but a far cry from what this winery presented a couple of years ago. On the palate it's ample, in a languid fairly sweet key with sour cherry plum fruit supported by ample warm soft tannins that have a slight citrusy burr and flow into a warm rather green finish. It's disjointed, and very much a child of the vintage; this said it will drink well with red meats, though I wouldn't drink it far from the table, and don't think I would age it too long.1 star

Cupano Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2005Lively black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter accents and a fair amount of mineral acidity with underlying sea salt and herbal notes. Some tart fruit, but not much. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich generic berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean rather sour berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.1 star

Poggio dell'Aquila53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577848533

Poggio dell'Aquila Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with delicate floral accents mingled with ripe yellow peach, which isn't that common in a red wine but can happen; the effect is pleasing and there are also underlying violets. Quite fresh. On the palate it's full and smooth, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by graceful berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. If you start talking while you're drinking it, you may suddenly realize the bottle is empty.2 stars

La Mannella Rosso di Montalcino DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and young, with bright cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit jam and slight citric acidity, with underlying orange peel. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and is one of those wines that's unassuming, but will do a good job of accompanying what it's served with. Versatile too; it will work well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats (a platter of mixed grlled meats including chicken and lamb chops…), and light stews, and also has the backbone to stand up to fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003 Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic notes mingled with sea salt and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying red berry fruit supported by some brambly acidity. On the palate it's ample, and quite soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet warm finish. It's overripe, and this is to be expected given the vintage, but manages a degree of grace, and has a nice tannic balance that's not overly green. Because of its softness I wouldn't drink it with meats that are too rich, but it will work well with flavorful dried meats.2 stars

La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino I Poggiarelli DOCG 2003Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some spice and greenish accents mingled with leather, and underlying alcoholic warmth. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather peppery; it gives an impression of trying harder than the basic Brunello, and as a result comes up a bit short with respect to it. Because of its peppery accents it will drink well with succulent stews or roasts. I would in any case give it a year, because the palate is better developed than the nose.1 star

Villa Poggio Salvi53024 Montalcino - SITel. 0577848486

Villa Poggio Salvi Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2001Brilliant lemony yellow with brassy gold reflections and rim paling from yellow. The bouquet is quite intense, with camphor mingled with sugars and some honeysuckle. It's not as fresh as I might have liked. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich white berry fruit supported by honeydew melon sweetness and acidity, and by greenish tinges that keep it from settling, The palate reflects the nose; there's an absence of freshness here too, and it flows into a clean fairly sweet finish. It's quite nice, but feels a little older than it should, like a 20-smoething person at a party full of teens.1 star

Camigliano Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 2005Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweet accents that gain definition from bitter vegetal notes. Abit less enticing than some of the others. On the palate it's sweet, with deft honeydew melon supported by clean melon acidity and flows into a sweet finish. I's a one-track one, mostly about sweetness, and I found myself wishing for more depth and complexity.1 star

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.