Why not cut the crimp the manufacture used to connect the hose to the fitting on the motor? The fitting should have a ridge to prevent the hose from blowing off and it would be smooth as not to chafe the inside of the hose. Plus no chance of metal filings getting in your motor if you cut that metal line. No, I have never done this on the DR, but I would improvise with a sawzall blade by hand. You could get one in town and it is more ridgid than a hacksaw blade. Would it be a good idea to wrap the hose with aluminum foil like from a takeout food tray or part of a beer can, to act as a heat shield in addition to as was said before wiring it to prevent contact. Yea,redneck engineering.

wee-twin screwed with this post 09-09-2012 at 01:06 PM
Reason: More ideas

I'm not Jeff, but the air horn and accessory plug should have no effect on the generator. If it bothered anything, it would likely be the battery. I expect that the horn is only used intermittently anyway.

I think the only damage that could be caused by the CDI would be to melt the ignition coil since you say it is getting quite hot anyway. But, since it has gone though several heat cycles, it can probably take it.
I would probably put the cdi in and fire up the bike one more time though. Then, test the ignition coil and the cdi while they are hot.

I would bet that the welding on the bike is what caused the CDI problem - and not the slow heat riding.

But anyway, how come you are planning on replacing the whole generator assembly? Do you have a dead battery problem, or evidence of decreased charging ability? Just curious.

Thanks for the info on the horn not having an issue.

I was told by a mechanic in Nairobi that I should look into replacing the generator soon, just as a precaution and with Jeff saying that the constant magnetic pulsing wears down the wires in the windings, I think I should replace the pick-up coil in South Africa. Anything else to replace down there, before I head up into more remote lands?

Regarding welding, if I need to weld on the bike, most likely a crack in the pannier frame, I should disconnect and remove the CDI from the bike first? (along with disconnecting battery, of course)

Quote:

Originally Posted by procycle

Yes, if it isn't too much trouble put put the bike back together enough to run it and then test resistance on the pulse and charge coils immediately when the ignition fails. Leave the side covers off and the seat bolts out so you can get to the connector as quickly as possible. The key is to do the testing while it is failing - not when it would otherwise start and run.

If the CDI really is the problem it won't hurt anything to run it some more.

I put the CDI back in and fired up the bike but she died again after running for only 30 seconds or so. I didnt want to fire her up again. I checked pick-up and power source coil and same results as before. Engine hardly got hot, but think I'll wait for the replacement CDI and ignition coil to arrive before firing her up again.
Thanks

abso-freaking-lutely. i bought a brand new tsukigi titanium gsxr1000 can for $100 shipped. and now, when kientech makes mid-pipes for the hyabusa cans, why would anyone bother w/the ridiculous expense of that? i'd think the gsxr cans would be dropping in price by now. the word on the 'busa cans are that they are at least as good...

abso-freaking-lutely. i bought a brand new tsukigi titanium gsxr1000 can for $100 shipped. and now, when kientech makes mid-pipes for the hyabusa cans, why would anyone bother w/the ridiculous expense of that? i'd think the gsxr cans would be dropping in price by now. the word on the 'busa cans are that they are at least as good...

I have to wonder if the number of places instituting new noise level ordinances and inspection proceedures has some riders returning to stock exhaust systems. I hadn't considered ther might be a 'downside' to less noise!

abso-freaking-lutely. i bought a brand new tsukigi titanium gsxr1000 can for $100 shipped. and now, when kientech makes mid-pipes for the hyabusa cans, why would anyone bother w/the ridiculous expense of that? i'd think the gsxr cans would be dropping in price by now. the word on the 'busa cans are that they are at least as good...

Before I get blasted..... I honestly have tried to read every thread here and Thumper Talk on carb mods and still can't figure this out. I recently purchased a 2009 DR650 and the surging was driving me crazy. I have drilled the slide, adjusted the air fuel mixture 2 turns out and shimmed the needle with 1 washer then rode the bike and it still surged a bit. I went back and added 1 more washer and still getting surging at 50 to 55 MPH in Th gear. The only thing I haven't done is remove the snorkel. What I have noticed is while riding 55 to 60 if I move the choke lever a little bit the surging stops. That's telling me it needs more fuel or does it need more air (should I remove the snorkel)? Other than that the bike runs and starts perfect. I'm trying to stay away from Jet Kits if possible..
Thanks Phil

For testing purposes, you can remove the side cover and see what happens (or duct tape the side cover opening to let just a little air in).

I rejetted my bike and just left the side cover of for the last 30,000 miles or so - runs great, no problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by philp38

Before I get blasted..... I honestly have tried to read every thread here and Thumper Talk on carb mods and still can't figure this out. I recently purchased a 2009 DR650 and the surging was driving me crazy. I have drilled the slide, adjusted the air fuel mixture 2 turns out and shimmed the needle with 1 washer then rode the bike and it still surged a bit. I went back and added 1 more washer and still getting surging at 50 to 55 MPH in Th gear. The only thing I haven't done is remove the snorkel. What I have noticed is while riding 55 to 60 if I move the choke lever a little bit the surging stops. That's telling me it needs more fuel or does it need more air (should I remove the snorkel)? Other than that the bike runs and starts perfect. I'm trying to stay away from Jet Kits if possible..
Thanks Phil

Before I get blasted..... I honestly have tried to read every thread here and Thumper Talk on carb mods and still can't figure this out. I recently purchased a 2009 DR650 and the surging was driving me crazy. I have drilled the slide, adjusted the air fuel mixture 2 turns out and shimmed the needle with 1 washer then rode the bike and it still surged a bit. I went back and added 1 more washer and still getting surging at 50 to 55 MPH in Th gear. The only thing I haven't done is remove the snorkel. What I have noticed is while riding 55 to 60 if I move the choke lever a little bit the surging stops. That's telling me it needs more fuel or does it need more air (should I remove the snorkel)? Other than that the bike runs and starts perfect. I'm trying to stay away from Jet Kits if possible..
Thanks Phil

Before making any additional mods check the float height and remove the tiny fuel filter hiding in the carb fuel inlet.

__________________
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Before I get blasted..... I honestly have tried to read every thread here and Thumper Talk on carb mods and still can't figure this out. I recently purchased a 2009 DR650 and the surging was driving me crazy. I have drilled the slide, adjusted the air fuel mixture 2 turns out and shimmed the needle with 1 washer then rode the bike and it still surged a bit. I went back and added 1 more washer and still getting surging at 50 to 55 MPH in Th gear. The only thing I haven't done is remove the snorkel. What I have noticed is while riding 55 to 60 if I move the choke lever a little bit the surging stops. That's telling me it needs more fuel or does it need more air (should I remove the snorkel)? Other than that the bike runs and starts perfect. I'm trying to stay away from Jet Kits if possible..
Thanks Phil

An improvement caused by adding some choke shows that you need more fuel. Running worse with an open airbox also shows that you need more fuel. Since adding a washer didn't help enough, try putting in one main jet size larger. If that works, then take out the shims and see if that cures it.

Can someone concisely explain how changing the float height affects the carb's performance? I understand the rest of the carb, just not that.

I was told by a mechanic in Nairobi that I should look into replacing the generator soon, just as a precaution and with Jeff saying that the constant magnetic pulsing wears down the wires in the windings, I think I should replace the pick-up coil in South Africa. Anything else to replace down there, before I head up into more remote lands?

Regarding welding, if I need to weld on the bike, most likely a crack in the pannier frame, I should disconnect and remove the CDI from the bike first? (along with disconnecting battery, of course)

I put the CDI back in and fired up the bike but she died again after running for only 30 seconds or so. I didnt want to fire her up again. I checked pick-up and power source coil and same results as before. Engine hardly got hot, but think I'll wait for the replacement CDI and ignition coil to arrive before firing her up again.
Thanks

By generator, I assume you mean stator? Those normally don't go bad although a broken piece of something bouncing around in there could ruin it. I guess excessive heat cycling might degrade the coating on the wires...
Part of me would want to leave it alone to see if it can complete the trip, but I totally understand trying to be proactive to avoid problems in the middle of nowhere. I'd probably carry a spare stator and pick-up coil as long as I had the ability to fix them in the middle of nowhere.

I don't know a lot about welding, but I've heard of ECUs and CDIs and Regulator/Rectifiers getting damaged by welding currents or frequencies. I would definitely trade five minutes disconnecting them for the peace of mind.

I know you don't want to try to run the bike, but have you ever pulled a spark plug and checked for spark right after the bike died on you?

Welding emits a lot of current. Always best to disconnect "fragile" electrical components from the bikes electrical system first. That said, I've welded brackets onto my DR without removing anything with zero problems. Just make sure you set up a good welding circuit before applying electricity. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and all that.