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Besides the 3 bolts holding the generator to the engine front housing, what else holds it on. Does the front cover have to be removed from the engine? I need to replace the brushes and springs in the generator. Is there a nut going through a gear in the timing chain components? Help

OK, I may be spoiled, but I expect engines and transmissions to be separable. It is impossible to remove the bell housing with the transmission as on newer cars, because that dowelled housing wraps around to the front of the flywheel! It seems like the clutch/flywheel has to be dropped out the bottom with the housing in place! That meant separating behind the housing, at the transmission itself. OK, except there is a spring between the throw-out arm and the transmission, INSIDE the housing, and only (barely accessible through a small access/vent panel on top. Oh, and of course, the throw-out bearing drops away, as the transmission shaft slides away. I have no idea how I will get it all back together! It would seem to need five small hands on multi-jointed arms to hold all the bits in place while wrestling it into alignment. Has anybody else pulled one of these early straight eights with the wraparound clutch-housing/engine mount castings? Are there secrets I missed? Thanks, jc

Hello , We have Franklin from 1932 and now we are trying to renovate it. We can't identify some parts. When we discover what it is and find those few parts we need to buy them. Please help me. 1 problem is that we do not have this part : pictures 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 - we think that it may be air cleaner. Please, confirm... 2 problem is pictures: 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 - what are these 2 outlets for ? what do we have to montage there? 3 problem is pictures: 3.1, 3.2, 3.3 - the same problem - something is missing. I'll be grateful for each piece of advice. Katarina

As the restoration project drags along, I just want to say that trying to bolt the flywheel and the bellhousing to the engine after the crankshaft is already in the block is nearly impossible. Although I prevailed with a thin long box wrench and a bit of acrobatics to tighten the bellhousing bolts behind the flywheel a 1/16 of a turn at a time, I hope no one has ever had to feel their patience wear thin like I did. End of rant.

Hey all, I am in the middle of restoring a 1932 Buick 67 and the plates that are on it are CA 1947. I would love to have a pair of CA 1932 plates to go with it, and seeing how I don't need the '47 plates, I would like to make a trade or a deal with anyone who has '32 plates. Thanks!

Does anyone know if the rear fenders from any other year/model from early mopars are the same as the 32 plymouth pb models? The ones on my car I don't believe are the correct ones to start with minus the rot. I have the inner fender supports for the steps since its a rumble seat, but no markings or anything what-so ever on the metal to show that steps were once there? If you know of anyone with rear fenders that work and are wanting to sell, please let me know, thanks, Nate

Some of you may know about my 1932 speedster project. two threads tel lthe tale: http://forums.aaca.org/f230/32-buick-8-50-4-su-353115.html http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-speedster-custom-2012-great-race-319610.html I pulled the engine last week and it needs some work. Do any of you know if the later small block 8's internal parts can be worked into these early blocks? I'm thinking of the full insert bearings used from 1947, and if it's safe to bore to 3.0938 for later pistons (this block is already at 3.00, up from original 2.9375). Thanks, jc

Some of you may know about my 1932 speedster project. two threads tell the tale: http://forums.aaca.org/f230/32-buick-8-50-4-su-353115.html http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-speedster-custom-2012-great-race-319610.html I pulled the engine last week and it needs some work. Do any of you know if the later small block 8's internal parts can be worked into these early blocks? I'm thinking of the full insert bearings used from 1947, and if it's safe to bore to 3.0938 for later pistons (this block is already at 3.00, up from original 2.9375). Thanks, jc

HI, the infamous boattail speedster is done (except for fenders) and legal for road use. I have been using the digital speedo that we use in rally work, because when I went to hook up the dash speedo's cable , I found no driven gear in the transmission to receive it! By the shop manual, it's an AC part, #848125, with 23 teeth. Does anyone have one or know where I might find one? Thanks, folks, jc

Does anybody know who supplies the flexible shield (pictured below) that goes over the 3/16" brake cable on my 1932 Pontiac. The shield diameter is 9/16". I am sure this was a common material for mechanical brakes. The pieces for the front brakes have broken due to flexing as the wheels turn. Again...probably a very common problem.

I am selling a Cadillac V8 emblemed headlight crossbar for a 1931, 1932 or 1933, not sure which year exactly. Decent original condition, would need to be rechromed to use on a restored car or use as is on an original car. Send an email for info... or call eight six zero seven 1 six four 4 eight nine...

Nash Ambassador Eight Bouwjaar 1932 8 cylinder in-line Twin ignition 100 hp (alot for this timeframe) About This 1932 Nash AmbassadorRareSeries 990 Nash Ambassador from 1932.133 inch wheel base Seaman Body.This is the first series 990 for Nash in 1932. 8 cylinder twinignition This car is an unrestored original. Paint appears to beoriginal with original interior. I bought the car about 25 years ago in Norway, I am the second owner of this car, it is very special! You can see the pictures etc. on www.autodekotte.nl Location: The Netherlands

I need period lamps for turn signal on the '32 Series 50 boattail speedster I have nearly finished. YEs, I forgot that the rall y rules require signals. I could use modern Harley one,s but they just don't look right. Anyone have these lamps? And willing to part with them? Thanks, jc

My father purchased this car from the original owner more than a decade ago and immediately began the meticulous restoration and rebuild. He passed away 2 years ago leaving her about 2/3 of the way finished. The same mechanic has numbered each part and all is ready for the final assembly. The body has been sanded and primed with fenders removed in order to begin the final exterior paint job. As advised by classic car aficionados, I'm leaving her in this condition to allow the new owner the pleasure of finishing out my father's dream. MUST SEE!!! ALL ORIGINAL PARTS!!! SECOND OWNER!!! Impeccable interior with the teakwood and mohair fabric (both original) to make this Interior the prized possession of this car. *Engine and its cover are complete lacking only routine maintenance to make it run *Covered when not being worked on and always in a garage with minor exposure to the elements *Maintenance records available After taking care of the odds and ends of my father's estate, I've finally been able to take this on. The asking price is $15k but if any experts feel this isn't appropriate for it, please advise and I will give many thanks and much appreciation for the help. I've been getting a lot of referrals and had very little feedback.

I have a 1932 Model 57 4-door sedan for sale. Body is in excellent condition - super wood, all steel fine and primered ready for paint. Engine and chassis also good - wood artillery wheels, good original honeycomb radiator. All parts believed present except upholstery and wires. No title, but chassis number is visible, will provide Bill of Sale for registration. First $3,000 takes it. For sale locally, too. Pictures on request (after Friday, November8 - when i next get a chance in daylight). Located near Albany, NY. Can deliver within reasonable (there and back one day) range.

I am installing the top on my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. I am using a kit from the Filling Station for Fisher bodies. The kit recommends using a sound/heat barrier which sounds like a good idea. They also recommend using a burlap material above the wood slats. They also did not provide any information on the type of tacks used to put the top material on. So, my questions are: 1) Has anybody used this kit on their early Pontiac? 2) Have you used a heat barrier and if so, where did you purchase? 3) Where did you purchase the burlap material? 4) Do you have any information on sizes and sources of the tacks used to put the top down? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Rob

I have a 1932 hupmobile cabrolet body shell. I am in need of a lot of the missing parts. I would like to restore it. Phone 320-251-4228, email mk@kiliantruckline.com Thank You. -Mike Maybe a rough sedan or coupe as a doner ?

I'm starting this thread to post photos of parts/questions as I dig them up to get input from fellow owners of 1932 Dodge DL cars. My goal is to bring this car back to life and I would like to stay as correct as I can with it. Here's a few photos of my DL rumble seat coupe project. Looks like some sort of aftermarket steering column lock on it. Also, the engine number reads D DL 22047 B, which looks correct for the car, so I don't know why someone wrote DeSoto on the side of the head (unless DeSoto heads fit?). Original colour (what's left) appears to be green. Needless to say, I won't be driving this car around as a preserved original... Where does one find the serial number on these things, and what does the body number mean? (mine has DL 1725 TPC on the firewall plate)

I am missing the rumble seat bottom for my 1932 DL. I was wondering: A: What does it look like? B: What else am I missing? C: What do the trim panels look like and what to they attach to? D: What color was the upholstery supposed to be in there? Black vinyl seat with cardboard trim panels? I am fortunate enough to have the seat back, but it looks like something heavy fell on it, so I need to straighten it. However, it looks like it still has the original upholstery. But that's all I have in the back there. Now, if someone had some extra parts kicking around, that would be fantastic, but I am probably going to end up using a block of foam like my friend did in his car if I can't find parts.

I am in need of a crank hole cover for my 1932 Dodge DL Coupe. If anyone knows of one for sale, please send me a private message, or reply to this thread. I missed one a while ago on eBay, mostly because I wasn't sure if it was correct or not. Anyways, if someone out there has one, I would be interested in purchasing. (actually, I would be interested in two, as both coupes I am restoring are missing this cover, but I doubt that someone has two spare covers!). Thanks!

I am putting in new kingpins and bushings on my 1932 Pontiac. Does anybody have any tips on accomplishing this job. Since I don't have any of the special tools shown in the repair manual I have to improvise. Anybody have any experience and tips? What do you use to ream the bushing out and fit the kingpin? Happy for any help you can give.