Attachment of the top procedure really begins with the bracing of the top. The idea is to make sure that all the braces except the “X” brace are thinned out to “zero” at the ends around the perimeter of the guitar. To accomplish this the measurement that represents the inside edge of the kerfing needs to be plotted on the top where it intersects the bracing.

The “X” brace and cross brace ends must be thinned to about .120”. The total thickness of the top plus the “X” brace has to be less than the width of the binding --- why this is necessary will become apparent soon.

To maintain the proper distance from the 12th or 14th fret to the sound hole center etc. drill two pilots and insert #18 brads. The brads will act as stops against the rim.

The top now can be anchored with a few rubber bands aligning the center lines of the top, tail and neck blocks

Mark the locations where the “X” brace and cross brace lay on top of the rim

Use a straight edge to connect the marks to delineate where the braces cross over the kerfing and sides.

Using a square or compass mark the maximum depth of the “X” and cross brace channels – this must be something less than the width of the bindings MINUS THE THICKNESS OF THE TOP. Failure to measure properly will lead to a situation where binding will not cover the brace ends. Mark the depth on the inside also.

Using a knife, razor saw and a small chisel notch out the rim to the proper depth.

When all six notches are completed place the top on the rim to check the fit. If executed properly the top will sit flat on the rim with no resistance. Sand the braces if there is an interference DO NOT MAKE THE NOTCHES DEEPER!

There are many benefits to using the “brace through the sides” method. First, it is easier than trying to chip out the kerfing location without damage. The tedious trial and error of measuring the “X” and cross braces to get them to fit inside the rim is eliminated. And, when done properly the top is automatically locked in place.

It always intrigues me when I see photos of guitar tops and backs being glued in place. There are usually twenty or so huge clamps or thirty spool clamps. It is not real clear, but the top in the last picture is being glued. Note that there are FOUR rubber bands. This top is seated all the way around and there is glue squeeze out all the way around. This is a contoured top with a 28’ radius. I cannot repeat this enough --- If it takes bone crushing force to bring your parts together something is wrong. Building stress into a musical instrument simply is not a good idea. I always glue the top on first – this makes the assembly very stiff. To complete the contour of the back it does have to be shaped over the waist to match the side taper. Again, if the back was braced properly and rim contoured properly, there will be very little force required to get the longitudinal bend.