I'm being picky here, but the language used in the saltwater hobby can get confusing, and the concept of "curing" live rock actually does not apply here.

The curing of live rock refers to the process by which living things are allowed to die. When a rock is removed from the ocean, there are a lot of things on the rock which will not continue to live in an aquarium. This is why a new shipment of live rock at the LFS stinks so bad that you can tell the moment you walk in the door that new live rock has arrived. A good LFS will "cure" the rock by placing the live rock into a vat of saltwater, with a very good protein skimmer attached and water pump for circulation.

This same concept of curing live rock may apply if you purchase rock that has been sitting in stagnant water, such as off ebay or on Craigs list. Often the rock has not been "used" in an active aquarium for many months or longer, and many things have died within the rock. This rock would also need to be cured.

In this particular thread dry rock is being used, which has no curing time. The rock is sold pre-cured, and with no living organisms in the rock. Nothing can die during shipment, so there is nothing to cure. In actuality, you are wanting to give the rock time to mature and become "live", which will happen in a few short weeks after exposure to live rock. The existing microfauna and bacteria in live rock will VERY quickly spread and populate the dry rock. In a matter of months you will not be able to determine which pieces of rock were originally dry or live, because all of the rock will at that point be "live" rock.

So, just for clarification, you may never see an ammonia or nitrite reading in your tank. Bacteria already exist in the live rock, and by adding live stock slowly the bacteria will quickly spread to keep pace. In saltwater tanks this is a rather easy task to accomplish, because you will be going 3 or 4 weeks between live stock purchases, allowing time for quarantine.

www.glass-holes.com the reef ready tanks IMO take up an entire corner, if not 2 corners or the center of a tank depending where the massive overflow is placed. these are much smaller but involves you having to drill the tank. www.youtube.com has videos on drilling.

Thanks for the clarification Pasfer. Now if I talk about it at the LFS I wont look like a total newb (even though I am).

Update:

Took a little drive to a few farther away LFSs this weekend to buy the aquarium, but decided not to just yet. A few people we talked to said that we should maybe consider getting a 180 for the bigger depth of the tank to help with the aquascaping and for more room if we decide on a Blue Hippo and or other tang (yellow or naso). Going to sleep on it (this thing just keeps getting bigger and more expensive). Decision time in the next couple of days. Months down the road, I don't want to find out I should have done this or that and regret something. However I'd like to get this thing set up and going before the snow starts falling.

Another question...We want to paint the back of the tank. Anyone know of a good type of paint to use? Something that might be better than typical spray paint.

Took a little drive to a few farther away LFSs this weekend to buy the aquarium, but decided not to just yet. A few people we talked to said that we should maybe consider getting a 180 for the bigger depth of the tank to help with the aquascaping and for more room if we decide on a Blue Hippo and or other tang (yellow or naso). Going to sleep on it (this thing just keeps getting bigger and more expensive). Decision time in the next couple of days. Months down the road, I don't want to find out I should have done this or that and regret something. However I'd like to get this thing set up and going before the snow starts falling.

Very wise advice. I debated between a 125 and a 180, but it took me about 2 seconds to make that decision. And if you want Tangs, the 180 will make a HUGE difference in your odds of success.

I'm leaning twords the Aquaticlife right now as I like the braces instead of the suspending lights. I also like the led moon lighting. The fact that I only have to buy one fixture and not 2 36" is another huge factor. Oh yeah, and the price.

Anyone have any other suggestions on a 72"x24" tank I might have missed?

Here is some low low budget lights(I have a 48 HO T5 with moonlights and love it) http://shop.aquatraders.com/SearchRe...p?Search=72%22 The ones you posted are probably way better but this is another option if money is short. and they come with legs for the aquarium.

Thanks onefish. I kind of figured, but I talked to one guy and he said use appliance paint. I'm sure it's not much better, but I just wanted someone else's opinion/experience JUST in case. Last thing I need is paint peeling off the back later on.

Still haven't decided on lighting. Hoping I figure it out soon, it's killin me.

Well I ordered the tank, stand and plumbing today (180G with corner overflows). Should be here in 7-10 days. They are even delivering it to me (thank god). I really didn't want to deal with getting a 350 lbd tank home. I think it looks almost exactly like yours Pasfer. Pics when it gets here!

I also found someone that is going to help me build a 35 gal sump for it cheap. That should be done as soon as the acrylic comes in.

Lighting, pumps and powerheads are my only issue right now. Think I'll go with the Mag, one of the HO fixtures I linked above, and 2 Koralias with the controller.

Marco is out of Fiji again. I guess I'll wait till its back in stock and order it then. :( Who knows when that will be.

Q-tank is going to get set up next week. However, I may delay it and get an acrylic one. I heard certain medicine can get into the silicone of a glass tank and get released later. I don't know how much of a problem if at all something like that would be, or if its even true. Everyone has glass Q-tanks and I don't hear of anyone having problems. I would like to put frags in there at certain points though later on. I have to research that a bit more.