straight to the point battery had problems after coming from body shop went to orielly's auto part store to get it tested. It tested bad 3 times bought a battery from orielly's specs of battery below.

900 cca
1080 ca

Main question is from personal experiences what happens if i just replace the battery and do registration on Tool32. Without the programming because Google has no clear reference or step by step write up of the programming.

straight to the point battery had problems after coming from body shop went to orielly's auto part store to get it tested. It tested bad 3 times bought a battery from orielly's specs of battery below.

900 cca
1080 ca

Main question is from personal experiences what happens if i just replace the battery and do registration on Tool32. Without the programming because Google has no clear reference or step by step write up of the programming.

What makes you think you need programming? Your post doesn't indicate what you feel is different about the replacement.

i had been researching and found so many post on when you replace a oem battery with a aftermarket with more cranking amps you had to first program CAS and then register the battery.

The biggest reason to re-code would be a switch from flooded to AGM or vice-versa. A significant change in Ah (which is not CA or CCA) can be coded but is less critical. There are only so many values to choose from.

Do you have an Ah rating on your new battery? I believe most factory batteries are in the 90Ah class. I think the next highest coded option is 110Ah (but that's just from memory - search will say for sure).

Registration is a must, but coding might be optional depending on how big a change.

Although "the Internet" shows formulas on how to calculate Ah from CA or CCA, they aren't really related in any way. There may be some averages based on typical automotive starter batteries but...

My suggestion would be to use some search engines and your specific battery model# (especially if you can find out what it ACTUALLY is - there are really only about 4 companies who actually make the batteries that everyone else slaps their label on).

Registration is definitely needed and so is coding. Google has plenty of perfectly clear instructions, just look harder. I was able to learn how to code for my car within a week of buying it and code the car and then registered the new battery as soon as my cable arrived. Toolset32 can register your battery and you can use NCSEXPERT to code for the new Ah values (CCA is not ever coded) in CAS=>KLASSE_BATTERIE.

If I were you, I wouldn't be messing around with some aftermarket battery from O'Reilly's. Issue is that those batteries never list their Ah value that you need to code, they sometimes list RC or Reserve Capacity, but that is not the same thing. Even if they listed the Ah values, BMW's only take these:

Exide and Deka make the BMW batteries and this is what your car needs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321133022950 . It's under $200 for a BMW battery that would last you much longer and if it matches your stats of 90 Ah, no coding is needed.

i took to dealership they have no problem with the O'Reilly's battery and ran the battery registration and while doing electronic diagnosis So now i have problems with water pump cutting on while the engine is off which the service advisor says he has never seen that in happen before. thanks for all the advise

Yes don't worry about O'Rielley battery. I'm using the Walmart one and haven't had a problem in 2 yrs. I can even watch 2 movies at a drive-in theater on a full charge so I'm sold on not going with expensive battery replacements.

Keep in mind though that I periodically trickle charge my battery to maintain it in optimal condition.