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8 / 16 is the main powering. You can power the arduino directly with it. I would suggest a key on source, like the radio.. or something similar. You don't want it powered on all the time, it is roughly a 114mA draw.

The actuator itself will pull 10+A. I would relay it off the battery, with a fused 15A connection to the battery. You can vamp the lbb +12v line to power the relay if you need a switched power and all you have is inside the cab. The Shield cannot power the actuator.

The 4 modes, perf/cruise/brake/spare are all 10k pullups, so you just need a switch switched to ground to activate them. They can be exposed, it's entirely safe. Just may not be good if you get false triggers

The 5V line, is 1A fused directly on your Arduino itself. You can certainly power any sensors with it. The 3 adcs can be used to monitor their outputs as well. Definitely want to connect the ground back to #7 on the shield.

More Newbie easy questions. So I finally got my Chummins Restoration underway , new 12v P-pump ,HE351ve installed. I didn't wire it all up yet. Question on wiring . I purchased the 1.1 shield just under a YEAR ago! just itching to get this thing going... 1-Do I need to power up the Ardunio separately or will it power up through the LBB header? Pin 8 and 162-Also what kind of amperage will that actuator Pull ??I'm assuming i'm not connecting the 12+ and Ground from the Actuator to the header correct me if i'm wrong please. 3- what does it want for the 4 inputs ? ( again I'm assuming Ground but not sure)4- Lastly I need a 5v source to power up some wire Sensors (3 of them) . Can I use the 5V out and GND from the Sheild (fused of course) without affecting performance?

Thanks Again for the help I'm sure I'll have more questions later. I'd really like to have a Screen later on just to show the speed and what input is being applied ... just for show and tell.

It listens to the entire canbus network it is connected to. Technically you could connect it to your vehicles bus and spy on stuff.

I'm using the shield, and I see the big 60 ohm guy on there. Thanks for that, and for the code. I think it makes sense so I'll play with it.

The DSL1 controller that I linked has a PID boost control system that can use a PWM output for a solenoid or whatever, but I might just have the LBB read that signal and set the vane position proportionally. It's kinda hokey but if the command frequency on the LBB is set much higher than the boost control loop, I think it'll work fine.

Ordered the exhaust manifold adapter and started figuring out what i'm going to do about oil and coolant lines. I got ambitious and took the turbine housing off of the turbo, then I saw a big issue, the VGT nozzle vanes are bent and disintegrating. My guess is that they crashed into the plate in the turbine housing and jammed the actuator, that's why the kid I bought it from pulled it. The plus side is that there is still hope for the actuator, and I have already found a replacement "good" turbo that didn't have an actuator. Already tested the VGT movement with the turbine housing, it moves freely and smooth.

I've also lined up a shop to help build a custom tube from the air filter to the compressor inlet, custom upper intake tube and custom downpipe elbow. They will tune the ECM also.

On the controller, I got the thermocouple amplifier functioning. I also ordered pressure sensors for fuel, boost, and drive pressures and the go-live EGT probe. Some relays, inline fuse holders, and wires too so I can start building harnesses and plugs. I'm hoping to have the swap completed by the end of the summer.

I know it's been awhile, but I'll be rolling an update out probably tomorrow, tightening up stability and adding a new option for bulk data communication. Your LBB will need to updated with the newer serial code to make that option work, but it's a ton faster for data turn around.