it makes ice for awhile, then quits. The wire sensor does not descend properly in response to an absence of iceit makes ice for awhile, then quits. The wire sensor does not descend properly in response to an absence of ice

Try pressing the button used for determining the size of cube for 5 seconds or so, this will put it into test mode, it should then automatically go through the cycle. It may be the motor is slipping, I have heard of the arm getting some water on it and freezing in place before. When in test mode see if the water is overspraying onto the arm. Try closing the water valve a little to reduce the water pressure or changing the size of the cube to see if that makes a difference. A tricky one for sure.
Let me know if that helps any.
A
Sgt 48

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Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.

Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

Aluminum bracket and screws

Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Thats what manuals say but in all honesty no it does not. The icemaker itself has a sensor in it that prevents the icemaker from turning on until the sensor reads 10 degrees F for a period of time. This is a failsafe to prevent the icemaker to fill with water with already standing unfrozen water in it causing an overflow. If your handy enough, remove the icemaker cover, the white square one, and get you a jumper wire and stick it into the holes marked n and m and leave the wire there until you hear a click. Dont shock yourself either. That will bypass the initial setup and the icemaker will start working normally cycling about every 45 miunutes.

Press until icemaker starts, then release button. Watch the tray twist and return to upright the should fill with water.

If icemaker worked: ICE SENSOR MAYBE BAD> ORDER NEW ICEMAKER IF THE ICE DOES NOT EJECT AFTER 4

If icemaker did not Start by pressing the test button.: UNPLUG the frig or go the Main Service Panel to the house (BREAKER BOX) and shut off the power and verify NO LIGHTS INSIDE THE FRIG>

Remove the concealed screws holding the icemaker to the ceiling.

PULL the icemaker forward to release icemaker. Using the Flashlight
LOCATE the wiring harness on the ceiling. Look for the RELEASE and Squeeze and pull down. Inspect the electrical pins to make sure all pins are equal and secured. If all is well there?
THE PROBLEM COULD BE either: ICEMAKER or Main PC Board

I would order a Icemaker assembly first since it is the least expensive.
1-800-Samsung
Good Luck and Cheers!
Seen It B4

Your icemaker sensor is out of its place. unplug the unit . check bottom of your icemake, the sensor looks like a little ***** , insert it back. turn unit on, and reset the board, Hold power freez, Power Cool for about 10 seconds.

Your unit has infered sensors on the frezzer left and right walls. There is a diagnostic test sheet brown in color in your kick plate.All you have to do is open frezzer door look on the right sensor it should blink twice followed by a 1-2 sec delay,if that is good press in flapper door on right sensor do not block path of infered beam you will not see a beam its invisable.Once you hold in flapper on right sensor the led should be solid.If solid optics are good if not solid led replace optic sensors

On my Kenmore bottom freezer, the evaporator fan motor is located behind a grill in the top center of the freezer compartment. Remove drawers and door. Pop off the grill by pushing on the tab in the center of the grill and then dislodging one side. If you see the fan and confirm it isn't working, then you will have to remove the icemaker. Disconnect the plug at the rear of the icemaker by pressing on both sides of the plug and pulling. Then remove the three screws holding the icemaker and remove the icemaker (it will probably have water in it, not ice). Push the icemaker female plug through the back panel.Remove the temp sensor cover on the upper right side of the panel. Careful. You need to pop the cover loose, then slide the cover off the sensor. Now remove the four screws holding the back panel and remove it. Try not to let the panel hit the evaporator fins, which are directly behind the panel. Also, you'll have to be careful to work the temp sensor up over the top of the panel. You have clear access to the evap fan now. Unsnap the temp sensor from the tubing on the right. Disconnect the evap fan wiring (left side) and another connector on the right. Remove two screws, and you have the evap fan assembly in your hand. Pull the fan blade off the motor shaft (friction fit) and loosen the motor retaining clip. Voila! You have the old motor in your hand.Good luck.KentC