It’s one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in Little Saigon, and you can expect to wait in line for at least 20 minutes, regardless of the time of day. Just about everything is good here. That said, most diners are here to eat nem nuong cuon, a type of spring roll made with grilled pork sausage and crispy wonton strips wrapped in rice paper. The sausage is slightly sweet and mildly garlicky, but if you want more kick, there’s a jar of unpeeled garlic cloves and tongue-melting bird’s eye chilies on the table. Be on the lookout for the new location, coming this summer or fall.

James Beard Award-winning restaurant critic (and three-time nominee) Brad A. Johnson has been writing about food for more than 20 years. A prolific traveler who has dined extensively around the world, he joined the Orange County Register in 2013 to help readers find Southern California’s finest steak, the strongest margarita, the freshest sushi, the hottest Thai curries and more. Brad dines strictly incognito and pulls no punches. Although he has yet to find a local restaurant to merit a perfect four-star rating, he remains ever hopeful as the quest continues.

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