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Topic: 65-70 upper control arm restoration (Read 10672 times)

I can now offer this service. Pretty much the same deal as Bill offered. You can contact me directly to discuss you needs. References available if needed.Thanks,David DavisDSD Restorations LLC870-780-4999dsdresto @gmail.comwww.dsdrestorationsllc.com

FYI: I recently had David @ DSD rivet my upper ball joints, as well as install new bushings in my perches for my 70 Boss 2. They came out great! I have done other stuff with him as well and is recommended.

The cost do do these run $1250.00 for upper, lower & spring perches using your cores, plus shipping. If your cores are to badly pitted I can supply good cores for an additional $500.00. I can restore any suspension or steering component, so call or email with any questions & prices. The photos below are some components I recently restored for a Boss 429. Mores pics posted on my site. Thanks for the interest,David

How about some details as to exactly what is done to restore these parts - what parts are used as replacements for bushings, ball joints, seals, and what is used to restore finishes - tumbled, blasted and how they are preserved - bluing, paint,

lscman,Just to rivet upper & lower ball joints would run $150.00 plus shipping back to you. That is with you supplying all parts except rivets.

Cobrajet428,For this service all parts are stripped to bare frames. Parts are tumbled using 2 different medias, first one to remove any rust & minor pitting. The second round of tumbling media brings back the metal to a natural stamped appearance. All bare metal parts are protected with a rust preservative. All spot welds are reproduced using gun bluing solution. Lower control arm bushings are replaced using a Moog bushing. The lower ball joints are disassembled inspected for any wear. Neccessary parts are replaced if needed. Lower control arms & uppers depending on what year are dipped in a black epoxy primer then dipped in a quality semi-gloss enamel. Upper control arm shafts are replaced using parts made in USA & are original equipment design. Upper ball joints are replaced with new Moog joints. Upper & lower dust seals are Scott Drake reproductions. Cork seals are replaced along with the ball joint dust boot retainer. Rivets are pressed with correct waffle pattern or round head depending on the year. All paint marks are reproduced if applicable. For the spring perches same process. Bushing is replaced & crimped as originals were. If you still have your original upper ball joints these can be rebuilt as well, if you prefer over the Moog upper joint.I do have a very limited amount of NOS upper ball joints but that would be an additional charge, for those that wanted originals.If you have anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Are you pretty good at welding? I have my OEM UCA's but a PO got ham-fisted with a grinder when replacing the ball joints in the past. I'd like to have the grind marks filled with weld metal and the repair made invisible with a Dremmel and Roloc etc. Could you?

Also, how much faith do you have in the ball joint rubber boots you are using? I installed concours repops on my tie rods. They were the best ones in NPD's catalog and they cracked open in a few months.

Your price is fair IF the rubbers give longevity similar to the OEM ones. I would hope 5 years or so on car-show driven type cars.

Also, do you have 2 splined Rockford fine thread perch bolts and correct nuts for a MAR 66 Metuchen car? Two of mine had the heads popped off.

Bryan,Yes I am very good at welding. I would like to see some pictures before I tell you that I can repair it properly, without it being noticeable. The problem you run into is the welded area of metal is just a little different than the control arm metal. If it is small areas it will not be that noticeable once tumbled & oiled. If it can't be repaired without being detectable I do have some very nice 66 cores.I am not sure on the control arm boots as they are the only ones available with the numbers on them. They are definitely a little thinner rubber than the originals. More so on the tie rod boots. I do have a new old stock set of C2OZ upper ball joints with the dust boot engineering number C4OA.Please send me a pic to my email dsdresto@gmail.comI do not have the Rockford fine threaded splined bolts but I should be able to come up with some. Thanks,

Bryan,Yes I am very good at welding. I would like to see some pictures before I tell you that I can repair it properly, without it being noticeable. The problem you run into is the welded area of metal is just a little different than the control arm metal. If it is small areas it will not be that noticeable once tumbled & oiled. If it can't be repaired without being detectable I do have some very nice 66 cores.I am not sure on the control arm boots as they are the only ones available with the numbers on them. They are definitely a little thinner rubber than the originals. More so on the tie rod boots. I do have a new old stock set of C2OZ upper ball joints with the dust boot engineering number C4OA.Please send me a pic to my email dsdresto@gmail.comI do not have the Rockford fine threaded splined bolts but I should be able to come up with some. Thanks,

Stangly,The typical rebuild runs $125.00. This includes tumbling the cylinder, replacing the boot & clamp if needed on the stud end, replace the rod dust boot, replicating the weld seam color & replacing the seals on the shaft rod. If the cylinder rod needs replaced it would run an additional $125.00. That's assuming your cylinder is not excessively pitted or dented. I can replace that outer tube also.

I'm wondering why the price is so high as you can buy NOS stuff cheaper then having A arms redone?

Only with the correct boots very very rarly . The typical stuff for sale is all mid 70's on service replacements with the wrong boots and that is with 65/66 which is more prevelent. The 67-69 uppers are non existant NOS and the lowers are the boot problem regardless of 67 ,68/70 if you find them NOS.