Pin 13 in the back of the iDrive computer, as shown in the video in the link above... remove computer (CIC), unplug Quadralock, tap thin black wire and run wire to the aftermarket amp/processor.

Use an inline 1A fuse in that wire for protection.

So why would it be an issue to use one of the fuses like I've already done since the fuse panel shouldn't receive constant power? And if this is an issue, would it cause some sort of feedback in the passenger sub like I have sometimes during startup or is this unrelated?

So why would it be an issue to use one of the fuses like I've already done since the fuse panel shouldn't receive constant power? And if this is an issue, would it cause some sort of feedback in the passenger sub like I have sometimes during startup or is this unrelated?

I have no idea of what type of signal you tapped (12V ignition switchable, 12V constant, 12V controlled by a circuit other than ignition).

Well, I removed the lower, rear driver's side seat cushion and there are no wires there except for the two that go to the fuel pump I assume. Do you know if this black wire we are chasing is in the loom that is under the same side's side bolster? Is there only one thin, black wire to look for?

Oh and just an FYI, it was TMR and not Technic who told me that it was pin 13. He just wasn't specific where pin 13 was located. If someone just tells me a pin number, I assume we are just speaking about the fuse panel and not another more specific location.

Here is his quote from my LC2i thread:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMR

Yes, a remote wire. Pin 13 is the best option. Takes less than 30 min to run.

Technic's a great guy and I know when he has a moment, he will chime in on it. I just don't want the extra work and hassle of removing the stereo when the wires under the side rear seat bolster are easy to deal with.

Technic's a great guy and I know when he has a moment, he will chime in on it. I just want the extra work and hassle of removing the stereo when the wires under the side rear seat bolster are easy to deal with.

Dude, I totally agree. Im not looking forward to touching my dash at all. Ive already got a few rattles that are driving me nuts. The less I have to remove, the better. Plus, I don't want to have to run a wire from the back all the way up there. That just means more stuff to remove just to tuck a wire.

Dude, I totally agree. Im not looking forward to touching my dash at all. Ive already got a few rattles that are driving me nuts. The less I have to remove, the better. Plus, I don't want to have to run a wire from the back all the way up there. That just means more stuff to remove just to tuck a wire.

Actually as far as tucking the wire goes, there is nothing to remove to go up to the front. It can all be done without removing one single item. I just see no need to go all the way as to remove the radio if that wire on the driver's side rear will be fine. I already have the lower cushion and side bolster removed. So once I have confirmation of the actual wire, it should be easy cheesy.

Well, I removed the lower, rear driver's side seat cushion and there are no wires there except for the two that go to the fuel pump I assume. Do you know if this black wire we are chasing is in the loom that is under the same side's side bolster? Is there only one thin, black wire to look for?

The Rust Brown part in the photo is the cushion/bolster:

Remove the C-pillar trim and then the cushion/bolster (in that order):

You should see a harness/bunch of wires either behind the bolster or the C-pillar trim. One of those wires should be a thin black wire, no other markings... that is the remote turn on.

I think that only removing the C-pillar trim could be enough to find the wire as it has to go thru that route to get to the antenna amplifier mounted in the back of the roof. Try that...