1) SET - the instrument
(including carrying case) - Costs run about $2000.

2) 3" PIPE - 20' long, 3" diameter aluminum
irrigation pipe. We typically purchase this from an irrigation company.
Be sure to order it without flared ends or coupling. These pipes are quite
light and run about $25-30 each. You can get pipes in varying lengths.
We have settled on 20' lengths. If they are too long they get difficult
to transport and handle.

3) CEMENT - 60 LB bag of Mortar mix. Amount used depends
on how deep you sink the 3" pipe and how much void space is in the
pipe. You should be able to get at least 2 pipes per bag.

After
the platform is built you will need to install the benchmark pipe which
the SET attaches to. For installation it's good to have 2 planks as crosspieces
since you will normally have two people standing up there (more if you're
vibracoring).

1)
Install the pipe into the marsh or pond using the pounder or vibracorer
(more information). It's important to get the
pipe installed as deep as possible since it is essentially going to be
a benchmark. For example, a 20' pipe will only go in about 18-19' maximum
because of the equipment that attaches to it when sinking it into the
ground. In many environments, the pipe will stop moving long before it
gets that deep

Everglades NP, FL USA

2)
Cut the pipe about 12-15" above the marsh surface. NOTE: if you are
in a pond the cut is typically 12-24" high (depends on the water
depth of the pond).

C) Step 3 - Cement the Pipe:

Cementing the insert pipe.Rachel Carson NWR, ME USA

1) Fill the void space in the pipe with cement. We use
"ready-mix" mortar mix (no stones). The amount of the void space
to fill depends on the substrate you are working in. For example, in unconsolidated
sediments there may be 8- 10' of void to fill. However, in very firm substrates
there may only be a foot or two.

2) When there's about 6-12" of void space remaining,
push the insert pipe into the top of the pipe and displace the cement up and around the outside
of the insert pipe. Tap the outside of the 3" pipe to displace any
air bubbles in the cement and help settle the insert pipe in place. Use
paper towels to clean off the top of the insert pipe. Make sure the notches
are free of cement.

Make sure you have the notches aligned properly which
the cement is fluid. The directions of the SET will be permanent once
the cement sets.

3) Use duct tape to secure the insert pipe in place.
It will tend to float up and out of the 3" pipe if you don't tape
it in place until the cement sets.

4) You are finished! Let the cement sit at least one
night. We try to let the pipe sit for at least 1 week before taking the first SET readings (called the baseline reading). This may not be
logistically feasible in some situations, but it is good to let the pipe
and cement settle for a few days if possible.