Designing and making something isn't hard. Designing and making something simple is often very hard.

A great deal of thought went into this contraption. If you put the motor on the other end you won't be able to easily reach the motor tiller from your seat. As it's designed and made, any popular motor on the market has a tiller long enough to be easily reached from the seat of the kayak, whether it be an Outback, Revo, Sport, AI or TI. Even a PA. Only the very short tillered Sevylor/WaterSnake requires you to reach much at all, and even that one isn't bad (you can easily extend the tiller but the controls are on the motor head on that one).

The first one I did utilized a cut down motor with a control unit housed in a box that could be set in the cockpit. But really, why bother? If you keep the motor as-is and don't have to do anything more than clamp the motor in place and drop the thing in the rod holder, so much the better.

No, it's not the same thing. The other one is a thousand times more complicated and difficult to make. You won't cobble it together from PVC or stuff you have lying around in the garage. It takes some molding and machining to get it done.

But this one will work on the PA. It works on any Hobie kayak that has the standard molded in rod holder.

It really is as simple as Tom says it is. I put it together after watching the video. I made one for my PA14. My suggestion is to use two clamps to secure the trolling motor. One wasn't enough for the one I put together, Thanks again Tom.

I don't know what else to show. There isn't really anything else. Maybe this will help - the clamps screw to the front of the PVC end cap. I use thru-bolts, 1/4-20s. The motor shaft fits into the clamp just like a piece of conduit. That's all there is to it. It couldn't be more simple.

You don't need a transom clamp. Slide it off the motor shaft and and discard it. Some motors might require that you temporarily remove the power head to do that. Other's don't. Or just cut it off. It's not at all necessary. I can't claim to know how all the various manufacturers fit their transom clamps onto their motor shafts, but I can't imagine any of them can be very hard to remove.

That picture really helps because the video was dark. I see simple PVC parts - obvious enough. I don't get the black band near the end of PVC tee, nor do I get the two clamps... like what are they exactly?

I have been mulling the idea of motorizing my Adventure, as I fish for salmon in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the entire Puget Sound empties (and fills) though the Strait, and even a 2 foot exchange generates a lot of current at the near shore when the kelp beds hold king salmon. I have been drifting to the west on the ebb, jigging on the slack, which only lasts for 10 or 15 minutes, and returning on the flood, but with my 40# thrust MinnKota, I could scoot upcurrent with power assist. And the nice thing about your mount is that the pedal drive and rudder are unaffected, unlike the BAssyaks and Hobie motors. Thanks again, Tom. You have an intriguing workshop!! Need any more kayaks??