Traditional Christmas food is usually an essay in big flavours, but that doesn't mean you need the fullest bodied wines you have. Seafood and lighter entrees need wines that aren't that full throttle, so there is a place for delicate wine on the table, and remember Boxing Day headaches follow enthusiastic quaffing of big brawny drops. Start with lighter, elegant wines, follow with heavier, bigger ones, and remember that Christmas also has unique Down Under wine traditions, such as festive sparkling shiraz and luscious liqueur muscat.

Yalumba The Y Series Riesling 2018, $13-$15

Score 90

Dry riesling has been Australia's prime shellfish wine for generations, and its incredible value credentials are beautifully reinforced by this sharply priced Barossa youngster. The sea-breezy qualities of fresh oysters, coupled to the zip and spice of finger lime and chilli, find appetising harmonies in this wine with echoes of spice, citrus and salty air. Screw cap; 11.5 per cent alcohol.

Clonakilla Viognier Nouveau 2018, $26-$28

Score 92

Viognier can be big and overwhelming, but not this inviting Canberra region example. It tells a youthful viognier story, with the balance of perfumed richness and tang to match the complex interplay of seaside flavours and more emphatic gingery notes in Kylie Kwong's prawn dish. Ripely flavoured, yet with a dry backbone, it has excellent balance. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Rutherglen Estates Classic Muscat NV, $22-$24 375ml

Score 92

Rutherglen muscat should have a place at every Christmas table, both as a dessert wine, and afterwards with chocolates, coffee, laughter and friendship. A bit lighter and less powerful than many, this more elegant muscat still has classic rose petal, toffee and raisiny notes, as well as some nutty aged threads. It's sweet and luscious with an attractive, clean finish. Good with a light chill too. Screw cap; 17.5 per cent alcohol.