Medusa

The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass.FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960

USER COMMENTS

The first half of the second pitch is good but chossy elsewhere. Not worth three stars.MG - 23/Jul/04

First pitch is a tottering pile of polished choss - the vines provide some of the best anchors. Above is interesting & much better climbing. Worth doing but not worth 3 stars.Thomas Clitheroe - 23/Jul/05

Please note very loose and dangerous large spiked block at five metres. I should have thrown it down but had gear at the base....Sishaw - 01/Aug/05

First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie thoughCraig - 15/Aug/05

Block now resides on scree. Partner 'expressed some concern' and became 'somewhat animated' on making its aquaintance when leading first pitch at end of Aug. Having read Sishaw comment I moved sacks and helped it to its resting place with fightening ease! Appeared to have nothing holding it on. Another remains but is wedged behind a large flake. Good climb!NGH - 04/Oct/05

nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars?nick whelan - 13/Jun/07

Chossy first pitch and complete lack of confidence on the super slippy footholds spoilt what was a great line, great position and otherwise good climbing. Only one star from me.Brian Mattock - 16/Jul/14