For the best flavor, make this soup at the height of summer, using just-picked local corn: yellow, white or a combination. The cobs are simmered to make a broth, which is then pureed with silken tofu, resulting in a rich-tasting soup without the cream or milk typically added to corn chowders. Another change from the classic version: a garnish of crumbled crisp bacon replaces the salt pork or fatback usually cooked with the corn. If you make the soup in advance and refrigerate it, it will take on a grainy look. When it is reheated, the graininess will disappear.

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