“Punk Wok” rolls on at MG Road

Irani, who opened MG Road beneath Chai Pani in 2012, seems most excited and energized when he has other chefs in his kitchen.

He created Punk Wok, a Monday-only pop-up restaurant at MG Road, as a venue in which former Admiral chef Elliott Moss could flex his muscles with pan-Asian food. The menu trends Vietnamese and Korean, which keeps the restaurant smelling of fermented chilies and kimchi on Mondays. Loud music lands the venue squarely in the casual arena, right where it needs to be.

Last night, when Moss showed his own penchant for collaboration when he invited Atlanta chef Angus Brown into the small subterranean kitchen of MG Road for Octo-Wok. The name was a play off of Brown’s restaurant, Octopus Bar, a late-night bites and cocktail spot named the 2012 Restaurant of the Year by Eater Atlanta.

Irani was as energized as ever, and Brown was equally enthusiastic about working with Moss. Moss turned out a menu of fried squid over green papaya and mango with squid ink and Thai chili. There was also a pleasantly greasy sticky rice, cooked in whey with blood sausage, kimchi and a fried duck egg on Moss’ side of the menu.

Brown’s dishes had a more concise feel to them, with a practically dainty rice cake with a dollop of sea urchin and a briny smattering of trout roe ( pictured above). His charred octopus was outstanding (as you would hope, given the name of his flagship restaurant), spicy with harissa, further brightened with a smear of lemon sauce.

Brown left this morning. But Irani said further Moss/guest chef collaborations are ahead.

MG Road is at 19 Wall Street. Punk Wok is each Monday, from 6 p.m. until the food runs out.