I am getting ready to tile a backsplash around my newly installed vanity but during the planning process I've noticed possible problem I may encounter. My tile sheets are 12x12 but I will be using only 7 inches of it. My power outlet sits only few inches above the vanity top and the top of the tiles will come up to 3/4 of the power outlet. I know that normally I would just have to get longer screws to install the outlet on top of the tiles but in this case the whole top of the outlet will have a large gap due to the tile thickness. How do I go about installing it?

Yeah, no easy solution for that I'm afraid... because your final receptacle mounting is flush, and it's impossible to be flush when it straddles two different planes. You may have to get creative with that... while you can shim the receptacle so that it and the cover plate mounts flush with the tile, you'll have a gap the thickness of the tile behind the cover plate on the top half.

A 3D printer could be used to "print" a shim on the portion of your double plate that requires additional depth to compensate for the thickness of the tile.

Otherwise maybe like an epoxy or something? You can put a very thick bead of it where you need it, let it cure, and then grind it down and sand it smooth. Then you'd need to paint that cover with a plastic-rated spray paint.

Either of those approaches might look a little weird. Maybe just tiling higher might be the simplest and least fussy approach.

1 - Raise height of backsplash so that receptacle is fully within the tile field.
2 - Put a ring of tile around the receptacle so that there is an even reveal around the cover plate.
3 - Put a ring of tile around the receptacle so that it is flush with the edge of the cover plate.
4 - Cut a U-shaped wood shim instead of using tile, with or without a reveal, then caulk and paint it to the wall.
5 - Fire the contractor for not having thought through this vanity install.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

1 - Raise height of backsplash so that receptacle is fully within the tile field.
2 - Put a ring of tile around the receptacle so that there is an even reveal around the cover plate.
3 - Put a ring of tile around the receptacle so that it is flush with the edge of the cover plate.
4 - Cut a U-shaped wood shim instead of using tile, with or without a reveal, then caulk and paint it to the wall.
5 - Fire the contractor for not having thought through this vanity install.

I'll do the #1. It looks like the easiest solution. #5- Imposible! He's cheap. Literally worked for food and 12-pack

I would raise the height of the splash. Add a row or two of the tiles and problem solved.

That's what I am going to do. Question- Do I remove the temporary silicone from between the countertop and the wall before installing the tile since I'll be caulking there after tile is installed anyway to match the grout color? Or can I leave it and just tile over it?

The silicone is fine unless it will show afterwards or hinders the placement of the tiles.

Shannon, I've been watching few of your videos on the backsplash installation ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2leAv5Eurk) and I was wondering if in my case I would also install the tiles directly to the granite vanity top like in your videos or would I use some kind of spacers and install the tiles like 1/4 inch away from the top and just fill that gap during the final step with a grout caulk the color of the grout? I am also using a mosaic tiles on the 12x12 sheet.

Also, how do you keep the very clean edges on top and sides of the mosaic tiles without masking tape? For my case would you recommend I back prep the tiles with mortar or should I maybe mask the area first and then just place the mortar directly on to the wall?

For back splashes I generally apply the mastic to the backside of the tile as shown in the video. This keeps the surrounding wall area from getting mastic on it where you do not want it.
You can place the tiles right on the granite or use a 1/8' spacer.

If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

Just finished installing the mosaic tile using white Mortar as the adhesive. I went with Mortar over Mastic since there will be a lot of water splashing and Mortar will be waterproofed, right?

I was also able to use a angle grinder with a diamond cutting wheel to cut the tiles accordingly. Very dusty job I have to tell you. Now I wish I wore a dust mask

Questions:

1. Since the mosaic tile has glass and natural stone in it, should I seal them before grouting? Can I seal both, glass and the stone or should I only seal the natural stone individually?

2. How long after completing the tile install can I seal the tiles before grouting? How do I seal it? How much sealant, how many applications?
3. How long should I wait before I can grout using Mortar? Can it be overnight, 12 hours?
4. To caulk the edges, do I caulk right after grouting or should I wait some time after the grout dries out completely?

Mortar or mastic really does not matter on this project. Never be enough water on this back splash to make any difference IMO.

Most videos on YT show Mastic being used on top of a 4" backsplash so the water mainly effects that 4" backsplash and not the tile above it. Your video was the first one I sow showing mosaic tiles going directly on top of the vanity top. My thought was that in case of wet couter, the mosaic tile would be directly affected by it, and over the next few years may effect the lower parts of the mosaic tiles that sit on the granite top. Well, its done now. It was actually easier than I thought. Placing a masking tape around the working area allowed me to be more messy than I probably should be. It came out clean to my surprise

You will need to seal the stone only, the glass will look dirty/filmy if you try to seal them. Use a small brush to apply. Check your product for any other details.

I usually seal them before I install but anyways you can do it as soon as the tiles are dried enough to not move while applying.

Just completed sealing it with a paint brush. Waited 5 minutes and then wiped it off with dry rag. It smells like brake cleaner

I would not caulk until the next day after installing grout.

12 hours from now I will grout it. The following day I will caulk it and then seal it again, right? I think I should also seal the granite top since I am doing all that.

Finally need to buy a new mirror and install new shelves, paint and put new bi-fold door into the small closet next to the vanity and I am done!!!!

Great article, Thanks Shannon. So I just completed the backsplash grouting, washed it slightly and now what? How long before I can caulk the ends and the corners and where the top meets the backsplash. Do I seal it in a day or two? What to do with the haze on the tiles?

20181127_210615.jpg (73.32 KiB) Viewed 676 times

20181127_210631.jpg (60.98 KiB) Viewed 676 times

20181127_210647.jpg (70.42 KiB) Viewed 676 times

I've used the unsanded grout in the Almond color so it is going to look good I think. It was actually easier than I thought but little more messy than I expected so good think I masked the vanity top and the walls.

Just a note: Half the questions you are asking are on the product packaging.

When I do tile, I wipe down the fresh grout until 90% of the excess and haze is gone, once dry, 12 to 24 hours later, another sponging will clean up the tiles. Read the label on the sealer you're using, it will tell you how long between coats and how long grout has to dry before it is sealed.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Just a note: Half the questions you are asking are on the product packaging.

I know but when they say 24 to 72 hours I'm not sure which way to go. Same thing on the water/grout ratio, their ratio didn't work for me so I started with water first then started adding grout and mix it using power drill. Finally I got the consistency I thought was right. I'm not good in following written directions, sorry

When I do tile, I wipe down the fresh grout until 90% of the excess and haze is gone, once dry, 12 to 24 hours later, another sponging will clean up the tiles. Read the label on the sealer you're using, it will tell you how long between coats and how long grout has to dry before it is sealed.

I did exactly that so far. I'm finding confusing info online on which one to do first, seal the tiles and grout first and then caulk around backsplash or caulk first before using tile and grout sealant? Will caulk stuck to sealed tiles? Can sealant damage the silicone? Thanks again

When I do tile, I wipe down the fresh grout until 90% of the excess and haze is gone, once dry, 12 to 24 hours later, another sponging will clean up the tiles. Read the label on the sealer you're using, it will tell you how long between coats and how long grout has to dry before it is sealed.

I did exactly that so far. I'm finding confusing info online on which one to do first, seal the tiles and grout first and then caulk around backsplash or caulk first before using tile and grout sealant? Will caulk stuck to sealed tiles? Can sealant damage the silicone? Thanks again

Do you seal the tile first or grout first, depends on the type of tile being used. Some is so porous that it must be sealed first so that the grout doesn't stain or stick to the tile surface.

As for mixing cement products, the manufacturer guidelines are always the ones to follow. Everyone has their own preference when it comes to consistency of the product, it can also change to meet the needs of the moment, for instance, on a hot day you might want a little wetter mix, while on a cool day you'd use less water. This adjustment affects the working time of the product.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.