Holiday Gift Guide: Drinking Days

It’s been a tough year for the dignified drinker, what with bros icing bros or moralizing local New York politicians drinking Four Loko to excess. When booze is left to the young, the developmentally arrested, or the outraged, a great tradition comes under attack. But where is the serious imbiber to turn? Well, to the bar, of course—but failing that, to the bookshelf, where any serious anyone turns for solace, advice, or simple good cheer. If you’re finding your shelves bare, or notice a gap in those of friends and family, here are some volumes that have, ahem, raised our spirits this year.

For the tasteless: Bernard DeVoto’s “The Hour,” reissued this year by Tin House Books with a new introduction by Daniel Handler, is a stern and stodgy cocktail jeremiad from the nineteen-forties, perfect for scaring straight that friend who violates all laws of taste each time he or she orders a choco-tini. DeVoto’s prescriptions: Martinis (with gin) and whiskey (note the American “e”), hold the sugars and sodas. No Manhattans, and no rum. Fruit is for breakfast, vegetables for dinner; neither group belongs in your drink. DeVoto’s manifesto was reactionary then, and it’s even more so now. But it’s also an impassioned, funny, and timeless celebration of the best things that can be found in a bottle.

For the uptight: Barbara Holland’s “Endangered Pleasures.” Holland died earlier this year, but she left behind, among other gifts, a joyous collection of short essays about savoring and indulging—including odes to the martini, the happy hour, and the meeting of lovers in dark bars.

For the scholarly: “Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition,” by Daniel Okrent, offers a comprehensive analysis of what factors led to a ban on the production, sale, or transport of alcohol in the United States, and what life was like in those pseudo-dry times between 1919 and 1933. Okrent maintains a gratifyingly incredulous tone throughout his fine history of this particularly ignoble experiment.

For the oenophobic: The wine world can be scary and ridiculous, as are many of the tome-like books on the subject. It’s hard for folks who’d like to learn a little about the stuff to know where to start. “Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine,” by Mark Oldman, is the perfect primer—concise, evenhanded, fun, and practical. (The guide was published in 2004; he has a new book, “Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine,” out this year.)

For the unhealthy and unsafe: In this festive season, we should remain aware of the value of moderation. For those who need a reminder of the dangers of drinking, there’s “The Lost Weekend,” by Charles Jackson, a fine novel and a terrifying portrait of alcoholism.

To close on a happier note, though, here’s to the fine trappings of the season—a clean glass, an open heart, and a healthy dash of good sense. Or, perhaps better, a toast, borrowed from Bernard DeVoto and attributed to several sources, including George Washington: “Confusion to the enemies of the Republic!”

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