Hello: I think this has to do with changing the rear differential fluid but not sure. I drove through some deep snow recently up to the underbody. Since then, I have a metallic scraping noise from the right rear wheel when making right turns at speeds faster than 10MPH. I have been religious about changing the rear fluid every 15-20K miles. Also getting that burning rubber smell from the rear end by the muffler. Could I have gotten water in somewhere it shouldn't have or do I just need to replace the rear fluid and burnish the gears? The dealer stated that they do not flush the rear end on CR-Vs. I think they need to read their service bulletins regarding the noises.

This is my first post and I hope it is not a stupid one. I just bought a CR-V LX and there is a small LED light on radio for anti theft that keeps blinking. Is it supposed to blink like that all the time? I did not see anything about it in the owner's manual.

Car was hesitating when starting - made an appointment to get it looked at. Two days before appoint, car would not start. Towed to garage. He replaces starter then says there is a noise, thinks it could be flywheel. He asks if we heard noises - none that i can recall.

Any thoughts on this. Garage is reputable completely and they are looking as I write this.

Recently, the little clip that holds the visor broke (the one next to the rear view mirror).

I see what looks like a slot on the back of the clip (facing the window). It looks like the kind of slot that you stick a small screwdriver in and snap off and snap a new one on. Is that what it is or is there some screw within the slot I am not seeing.

I took it in to the dealer for diagnosis. They said the differential sounded OK but the noise could be from rust on the brake backing plates. They cleaned them but the noise is still there. Sounds like a metal rubbing noise from the rear when making sharp turns around 20MPH. Could this just be a normal gear noise from the wheels rotating at different speeds? :confuse:

Actually it is simple. You stick a very small screwdriver in the slot (which faces the window so it needs to be small), push the screwdriver in then at the same time turn the visor clip counter clockwise a half turn or so - comes right out. To put the new one in just insert and turn clockwise - simple. The part is 3.50 cents.

Did you ever find a solution to this? Our 2005 CR-V just started the same thing. We did a four tire alignment, rotated and balanced the tires and the problem is still there. The car has about 90k on it and the shaking just started from one day to the next. Not sure what to do now?

I am used to getting my oil changed every 3,000 miles or so. I was told to just go by the maintenance reminder on the digital readout for my 2010 CR-V. I now have 5500 miles on the car and the readout says that I have 50% oil life left. Can that be possible? Should I get the oil changed anyway? In the owners manual it does not list any mileage requirement for oil changes (or time period requirement)......just tells you to get it changed when the minder says there is 10% life left. I am very nervous about this. Could it be possible that the CR-V only needs the oil changed every 10,000 miles no matter what the driving condition? Also, the standard rule of thumb was every to change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months......is there no time period for the oil in the CR-V, or does the maintenance reminder factor that into the readout?

I changed my oil on 11/28/09 @ 17,279 miles and reset the minder ('08 CR-V EX). I just changed the oil Saturday, March 27th with 15% life left @ 20,613 miles. That's 4 months but only 3,334 miles. The last one before this was 10,000 miles on the oil life and 5 months but it was predominantly hwy miles while the current stretch was mostly local. I could have waited until 0% on the minder.

How would I test for that? I did have the wheel jacked up and turned slowly by hand. I felt a bit of a "catch" several times per rotation of the wheel at regular intervals. Or is that a normal clutch resistance because the other wheel was still on the ground?

My 08 CRV has around 25k miles and reminder shows 30% left, I am going to make an appointment for the service once it down to 15%. My question is should I just go to the dealer and do the oil change (I still got two free oil change coupon) or do whatever they recommend for the mile I have right now? I remember last time around 16k when I had the second oil change, they print out a long list and told me that was the service for my car and it would cost me $3xx. I almost agree with them but my wife stop me and said the car only 1 1/2 year old and it was unnecessary, so I only did the free oil change and left. Now my car is over two years old and 25k, I only had two oil change and tire rotate before since it was new, I want to know what service I am expect for this time and how much it will cost me. Thank you

Yes, I have a manual and I read it. I just wondering are you mean if the dealer recommend anything which is not list in the manual, I am not suppose to take it and pay it?Also the driver's side door lock has a wired sound when I use the central lock to unlock it, but it only happen once a while and it sounds like you scratch your nail on the chalkboard. My car still under warranty, if I ask the dealer check it and fix it, are they going to charge me or the warranty cover it for free?

the dealer *usually* won't replace anything that isn't conspicuously defective, since he won't be paid for it by the factory. It may get kicked back to him, in other words. But sure, he could take that chance for you, if he's seen this type of thing before and has a pretty good idea of what it is.

It could be a short due to a chafing wire. I had the same thing once, and after literally hours and hours of troubleshooting we found where the wire that supplies power to the light in the console (the PRNDL light that shows which gear is selected), was rubbing on a piece of sheet metal. After a few years, the insulation finally wore off and it started shorting out and blowing the fuse. Sometimes the fuse would blow immediately and sometimes it would take a while for it to blow again. You will probably need to trace all the circuits that are supplied through that particular fuse. It could be the lights in the gauge cluster itself, the lights to the HVAC control panel. or whatever else is on that particular circuit. It can be a tough problem to diagnose. Good luck.

I have a 2003 Honda CRV with 77,000 miles. The check engine light first came on in May 2008 and was intermittent. I do not know what the code was. I was told to replace gas cap which I did. and light went off for a while. Later, it began coming back on and going off intermittently. Frequently, it came back on when I got gas and I DO NOT TOP OFF. Car ran fine the whole time.

Car was fully maintenenced in August 2009. The check engine light had been off at that time for a while and no problem was detected by car dealer - Scott Honda, West Chester, PA. Frankly, I forgot to mention it to them.

The check engine light came back on fall/winter 2009 and stayed on.

I had the car fully maintenanced (75,000 mile regular maintenance) again in Feb 2010. They ran diagnostic test for check engine light problem and replaced O2 sensor in front and I paid $511 to correct this problem. The Codes were P1166 and P0134.

Less than 3 months after the $511 repair job, I got gas last night and the light came back on. I am not happy with Scott and wonder if I should end my long time relationship with them (I have bought 3 new cars there and have NEVER gone anywhere else for maintenance).

Less than 3 months after the $511 repair job, I got gas last night and the light came back on. I am not happy with Scott and wonder if I should end my long time relationship with them (I have bought 3 new cars there and have NEVER gone anywhere else for maintenance).

Please help. How can this problem be permanently fixed?

Janice

What is the code this time?

CEL can be set off by different things, including bad gas cap. No one can guess what is wrong with it, unless you read the code. If it is O2 sensor, it will be under warranty, still. However, CEL is not an absolute answer, a code for bad secondary O2 sensor may be caused by a faulty catalytic converter. It takes someone who knows what they are doing to properly diagnose a problem.

I had heard this popular dealer pitch before, but it kind of caught me by surprise coming from the Honda dealer I frequent. They are very reasonable about up-selling or pushing stuff, even don't charge me for inspections during the regular oil changes (the 5K service). But last time they suggested strongly a power steering fluid flush. I politely declined. I don't think the Manual even mentions it.What say you?

With auto sales down, I guess trying to up-sell the service customer is to be expected. I don't like it. It's become worse since many dealers now try to compete on price with quick-change oil shops. I wish they wouldn't. I'd prefer to pay more for better service and skip the up-sell pressure.