CZ_the_DAY: Thanks for the info and to let you that on a HT-R667 this fix works, will go back in to replace the other caps to hopefully restore the OSD but for now all the hdmi switching works like a dream...

This may prove useful, my HT-S6100 Receiver (R667, similar to 606?) is beginning to malfunction after 1.5 years of usage

I know how to do many things related to electronics, but haven't really ever soldered anything before. How hard of a task is it to solder these caps on? Glad I found this thread before buying a new receiver

CZ_the_DAY: Thanks for the info and to let you that on a HT-R667 this fix works, will go back in to replace the other caps to hopefully restore the OSD but for now all the hdmi switching works like a dream...

Way to go and thanks for sharing.
The chips that are next to the HDMI connectors handle 4(or3) to 1 switching + demultiplexing (split audio data) + transmitting 'HMDI out' not to mention handshaking/HDCP. OSD and 'analog' to HDMI conversion are handled by the biggest IC. Since there have been mixed results in that area, I'll keep my fingers crossed for yours. BTW, I have sent you a PM.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheeseman42001

This may prove useful, my HT-S6100 Receiver (R667, similar to 606?) is beginning to malfunction after 1.5 years of usage

I know how to do many things related to electronics, but haven't really ever soldered anything before. How hard of a task is it to solder these caps on? Glad I found this thread before buying a new receiver

It's been so long since my noob days I don't know how I'd rank it but if you can aquire something to practice on with surface mounted components (ie. repair shop dumpster dive or even recently updated computer boards) to practice on, you can better judge and/or refine your abilities.

Hey new here, just want to say a big thanks for all the info shared on here, I managed to fix my 606 (in a rather unothordox fashion lol) which crapped out on me as I bought a new TV so all is well now!!

Thanks for posting this. I've been having handshake issues for about a year on my 606 but wouldn't send it in as I don't have speakers on my tv. The handshake issues got so bad tat I would just leave the receiver on 24/7. Lately I began losing sync at random intervals.

Since I couldn't send the receiver in I was about to buy a new one (different brand) but saw this. Figured it was worth a shot. Anyway, the first time I powered it on after replacing the four caps I didn't see any sync issues. Only been a couple hours but I think my issues were fixed.

Ok folks, new here, and reading all the 606 hdmi info I can get, so now I'm pretty much mush in the brain department. So for a little clarification, do you only need to replace the 4 caps or do what spldart did and replace them all plus add the little red one across the grd and v. out pins also...sorry not real technical in describing this....

as I read some saying the 4 caps replacement fixed the prob and if so then what is the purpose of the red ones bridging across the other ic's or caps or whatever they are....

I am happy to report that I am another satisfied customer. My 606 was having terrible handshake issues for quite some time. Today I replaced the 4 caps mentioned and handshaking is now within 3 seconds.

As an aside, this did not fix the OSD issue. I read back to CZ's earlier post about replacing other units and also replaced C8162 & C278. This did not resolve the OSD issue either. I had to stop there as I was out of replacement units. (FYI - I used 16V caps)

Does anybody know definitively which caps are responsible for the OSD?

Gentlemen,
I am happy to report......handshaking is now within 3 seconds.
...... also replaced C8162 & C278. This did not resolve the OSD issue either.
......which caps are responsible for the OSD?
A great thanks goes out to all who have contributed to this solution!

fishstickjesus I like your cup-is-half-full attitude and if you are patient, you (and others in your position) might get rewarded with a solution. Meanwhile let's remember that you have done more than what ONKYO requires prior to sending a board back to the factory. For all we know they just replace a regulator (or worse, an IC) and ship 'em out as warranty replacements...

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPaulAR

Thanks for posting this.......I powered it on after replacing the four caps I didn't see any sync issues. Only been a couple hours but I think my issues were fixed.

Excellent MrPaulAR ! (we have similar stories too) You've contributed enough with this, but...was upconverting (aka analog to HDMI) ever utilized by you? If not could you test a couple sources and report back?...OSD ever 'affected'? We may find that problems related to the 'big IC' are easier to 'fix' if it was never really stressed (aka used) much. If it's only job is to shell out OSD - which may describe your situation - then the 4 cap swap will reset the clock, so to speak.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIKE00

...do you only need to replace the 4 caps or do what spldart did and replace them all...?
...plus add the little red one across the grd and v. out pins.....what is the purpose < ? >

Re:4 or more? Do the minimum and it'll either work or not; the others are more like for opportunity sake ( and futureproofing IMO )
Re:Red caps?..refer to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19144400 as it might help you figure out if you are even in need. I believe it's a work-around for the heat issue; concentrate on that instead.

As this thread matures it becomes more bloated and difficult to digest. The best I can do (as editor and CTO ) is to keep evolving the instructional areas to make them palatable yet not understate the level of difficulty or failure. BTW, there is a way to see what/when something was changed in a post should you decide to check which 'revision' we're at from time to time.

----------------------------- PART 3 -------------------------------
We can't be satistfied with the status quo when afterall, that's what started this in the first place. So now begins the modding section of this thread. As mentioned before, there are others who have added fans - most of which are externally mounted and powered. Since repairing requires disassembly and soldering we can approach it with more liberty.

I pass this on to all those who took the time, like tyzan, to build upon this thread. We look forward to the images too.

This seems to be the first time another '576 owner has posted, the first mention of tantalum and probably the first Russian - but not the first 85'C. Which reminds me to complete the cooling advice section so it can be tweaked by all.

I also proceeded to replace capacitors and add some more to the regulators as advised by onkyo (with a lot of help from a friend, actually) and everything seems to be in order once again.

Thank you very much! I didn't have the money to buy a new receiver and I should sent it overseas to use the warranty. An expensive alternative also.

The question is:
Couldn't we use the main power converter for powering the fan(/s) directly from there?
(I am talking about conversion because I live in Europe and AC to DC converters are in use)
Wouldn't that be safer that messing around with the boards?

I see that there is not a combination to result 12 volts exactly, but I guess that it can be arranged more easily than powering from the HDMI daughterboard.

....
The question is:
Couldn't we use the main power converter for powering the fan(/s) directly from there?
(I am talking about conversion because I live in Europe and AC to DC converters are in use)
Wouldn't that be safer that messing around with the boards?

I see that there is not a combination to result 12 volts exactly, but I guess that it can be arranged more easily than powering from the HDMI daughterboard.

What are your thoughts about it?

(First of all, good for you!)
It might be that you are referring to the big transformer with its multi-taps (AC voltages) and yes, one could connect to a tap and construct a mini-circuit of diodes/capacitors/resistors/etc to produce the desired 12 volts_DC (or less). I might address that issue here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19251082 as soon as I can. However, if you are talking of something totally different, then I may have much to learn about what is unique to each region, internally.

After much delay....
The transformer in my '576 has an alternate connection point for the 'mains' in - so my unit is capable of 220v operation. Another version of firmware would also be required for European compliance. I will try to provide alternate internal power options soon; without the luxury of a service manual, unfortunately...

I really have to give a major thank you to the guys that have done the legwork in this and other forums. Thanks to you guys, I now have a working 606 again. Now I just need to figure out how to make that case fan happen and all will be good.

I have an 805 in which the HDMI ports died earlier this week (no picture), have ruled out the cable and source and am absolutely sure it is the 805.

Was wondering if anyone has tried this procedure with the 805 and if so did it work (TX-SR805, complete model number).

If not, does anyone know where I can buy an HDMI board for my 805? I know they are expensive but I would like to fix my 805. Neither Onkyo nor their Authorized Service Center will sell me the board direct. I have to ship my 50 pound beast to and from the service center, pay their labor and parts, plus sales tax then it would cost me over $500. I think I have the skill to just replace the board myself if I could find a source to buy one. Please let me know it you can on where I could buy a board. Thank you so much everyone.

...I now have a working 606 again. Now I just need to figure out how to make that case fan happen and all will be good.

and hopefully we can help more towards the latter soon...

Quote:

Originally Posted by golffnutt

... I think I have the skill to just replace the board myself if I could find a source to buy one. Please let me know it you can on where I could buy a board. Thank you....

Ship me that 5oz board instead, lol. Seriously, I don't remember ever reading about an example of an outright purchase - just people reporting the 'replaced for' quotes/bills. Also FWIW, most if not all are reporting symptoms that set in gradually as opposed to 'sudden death'. PM sent to golffnut to get specifics for this case; will share with thread anything relevent...

Ship me that 5oz board instead, lol. Seriously, I don't remember ever reading about an example of an outright purchase - just people reporting the 'replaced for' quotes/bills. Also FWIW, most if not all are reporting symptoms that set in gradually as opposed to 'sudden death'. hmmm....(edit pending)

Hi CZ,

Thanks for chiming in, hoped that you would. You are right, mine did start going out gradually. What would happen, I would lose the picture to what I call video noise (white, fuzzy screen). I would then unplug the hdmi cable and re-plug it back back in, the picture would come back on. This went on for about 3 months before it finally would not come back on at all.

If you would be willing to repair my board like you did yours I would gladly pay you for your time and of course for the parts. If you can't do that do you possibly know someone who might repair it? Any help or advice that you could give me would be greatly, I mean GREATLY, appreciated. Thanks CZ and have a wonderful weekend.

Would you know if this cap repair would also address intermittant static noise from speakers on a 1007?

I am, out of warranty and my right surround back speaker has intermittant static like noise. If I play with the surround settings and shut off the surround backs (7.1) the noise jumps to the right surround speaker 5.1.

But anything less than 1080p... no problems.
Wondering if this is in the same vein as the problem y'all have been having.

I think it's possible since the doubling of bandwidth could push the board over the edge (power consumption jump, etc). Sadly, I didn't experiment with lower rez prior to fixing mine. Try covering the '576 vents for 10-20 minutes all the while attempting to get sync'd. It could verify the theory if it actually manages to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheeseman42001

I might be being too careful, but I can't remove the daughterboard from the three white connectors, it seems really tight, any special tips?

Something (like a flat blade screwdriver being twisted; wrap with tape to avoid gouging the verticle board) can be used as a wedge between the two boards in conjuction with pulling. There is room near the front-most socket. Just be sure that you have missed no HDMI port screws first

I suspect, that this is another problem in combination with you display.

Well... that's what I was hoping... would've been an easier explanation and fix. I was hoping someone out there with the VT25 would've already run into this problem with the 576--that it was just a software problem and getting the settings right. At this point, without a warranty, I'm basically committing myself to an upgrade. Maybe a 608 or a 708. I'd rather not until I've fleshed everything out.

Let's face it... we all know the 576... there aren't -that many- settings in the 576 (or the VT25) that end-users can manipulate to screw up 1080(p) HDMI passthru/switching. Even if I were a noob.

I've gone through all the settings and HDMI input assignments. And all the resets in the world haven't fixed it.

Simply put, when I directly HDMI plug-in my 1080(p) sources (Panny 3D BD player, PS3, Core i3) into the VT25, I have NO problems. (So at a minimum, I think we can't blame my eBay and Monoprice HDMI cables.) ***You put the 576 in between, I can ONLY switch 1080(i) and below***

Because I've never had to put my 576 up to the task of 1080(p) switching, I don't know if (1) it was ever able to switch 1080(p) or if (2) it previously was capable at 1080(p) and more recently failed.

@CZ

I don't quite figure how covering the vents is going to help troubleshoot the 1080p vs 1080i switching. Wouldn't that just cause a catastrophic failure!? It's not like I've got a backup!

I don't quite figure how covering the vents is going to help troubleshoot the 1080p vs 1080i switching. Wouldn't that just cause a catastrophic failure!? It's not like I've got a backup!

My appologies as I should have qualified the suggestion with conditions and by recalling my experience; my unit would initially start to act up from a cold start, then progressively longer warmups would be required. By the time I repaired it, I only got it to work with a little extra help. On the premise that you would only do this for a limited time (and not while pushing any watts to the speakers) it shouldn't be overly stressful. It would have been wiser to suggest covering the rear 2/3 of the vents during this test. One major caveat is that once it's too far gone (like 3 years in your case), the heat trick may be ineffective altogether. Also, there is no chance you have one sub-standard HDMI cable in the mix? ( IOW, you've tested them all - TV to deviceX....not trying to insult your IQ BTW )

Welp... I crossed my fingers and was hoping you were on to something. So just to be thorough, I re-tried all the HDMI cables, directly to the TV.

Core i3 directly into to the TV. In 1080p. No problems.

Using the same cables... Panny 3D BD directly into to the TV. In 1080p. Ice Age FULL 3D. No problems.

(BTW, 3D works -perfect- with HDMI 1.3 cables AFAICT with audio and video--can't speak for audio return channel or ethernet.)

Then I put the 576 in the mix. 576 insists that there's "No Signal". Screen is black... no sound. Not even static.

So I don't think the cables are a problem. And having ruled out a problem with any of my other hardware... And with all the people reporting various manifestations of HDMI problems with 576s and 606s, it's got to be the receiver.

As far as the cold start theory, I can tell you that my receiver is on all day long. And it's in a fairly enclosed media cabinet, so it's pretty much hot all the time. Definitely fully warmed up by the time I get to troubleshoot it. If anything... overly hot.

Of note... as I speak, my wife is watching Gossip Girl 1080i off my PVR and it's starting to show some bizzare artifacts--albeit intermittent and rarely. Strange greenish lines I've not seen before. Mind you, the PVR is 1080i... never 1080p.

I'll bet that I've pushed the 576 to death with the heat, that this is the beginning of the death knell. My 1080i is starting to go maybe?

I don't think there's a definitive way to tell unless I take it to the shop. But there's no way I'm going to pay to diagnose/repair this rig professionally. I think I only paid about $200 for it in the first place.

I think I'm going to take the dive and just pick up an RC260. Some decent upgrades. And there's some great deals on pre-owned units on Amazon.

If anyone wants to experiment with an orphaned 576 that doesn't seem to switch/pass 1080p... swing by Hoboken, NJ and I'll let you have it after I get my new receiver.

I'll bet that I've pushed the 576 to death with the heat......paid about $200 for it in the first place.
... swing by Hoboken, NJ and I'll let you have it after I get my new receiver.

Woohoo! spare parts for mine and if I leave now, I could be there within a week (ok, i'm not actually eligible)....at least you can't be accused of not having been thorough, and in the end put it into perspective; it's not an 8xx unit we're talking about here. Enjoy the new toy and RIP to the ol' 576.