@rml0015 I have had success with PlastiDip. It does take a lot of coats. You can also get sheets of neoprene from the craft store and cut them to fit under your plate. These serve two purposes by protecting the ski as well as providing some upward pressure on the plate and keeps the screws from loosening often. I ordered a roll of rubber from Grainger and made my own.

We are taking about under the binding, right? Nobody ever sees that unless either work is being done (who polishes rocker arms in your engine? ) or when the ski is being sold. Hiding normal wear seems a little dishonest.

Performance wise, ski designers consider binding ski interfaces in the overall flex. Some bindings are designed to move. Adding sticky tape or seal will change that. Perhaps more than single vs double plates that many stress over.

@Horton This should not generate the traffic that a buoy controversy will, but a little dissent livens up things. And even you must admit that this is the least important technical ski issue.

Of course, we now have an idea of whose skis for sale have more use than the appearance would suggest. Buyer beware.

Eric Sandford I'm sure you spelled the show's name wrong but I'll work with that. And when you come visit, I'll make sure that you get the bar of soap with the fewest hairs on it. That was a great show.

Sorry @chris_logan I just looked at this again and couldn't figure out how I came across that link, then when I went back through this I realized clicked on it from your post here. Long day and way to many BallOfSpray tabs at the top of the screen. Guess that means I should get back to work!

If you take $0.89 to Michaels craft store and venture over to the paper section, they have foam pads that are adhesive on one side. you can just stick that to the bottom of your binding plate. That's what I did on the bottom of my Reflex plate as they included no form of padding with my purchase.

My Connelly Talon bindings came with a thin foam pad under the bindings and I just replaced the back section with new foam from Michaels, but my ski has a distinct "water mark" under the bindings. So apparently foam pads are not going to keep at least some skis from getting marked.

Touched a nerve though. @Onside135 A stretch for sure but this is something only relevant when selling. Any other time it's completely invisible. And ( @webbdawg99 ) normal wear is the flexing of the ski and its effect on the structure of the ski, not scratches in the graphics free area of the ski. @GOODESkier Maybe the interlock hiding evidence of use is why used Goodes have a reputation for breaking?

PlastiDip is sticky stuff. It will connect your plate to the ski differently than aluminum, G10 or the Teflon some bindings use. Some who obsess over minute details might find this more important than hidden small scratches.

Whac-A-Mole is the Hasbro game. Just a game - like a spelling bee. And @Horton you also totally screwed up the word for skiing - it's tricking not slalom. He needs some of your coaching and you need his if you're going to catch me.

@eleeski I wasn't saying add the interlock AFTER you have skied with the regular binding abrasions. I was saying use it from the start. No contact to the ski. If he was looking for a way to eliminate those abrasions from occurring, velcro is one way to go.

I tried electrical tape cuz it seemed to have similar properties to the stuff D3 uses which is really fun pulling off-beats a new phone any day.It seemed ok, but I still have a lot of marks but that may be unavoidable.