Vermicomposting vs Composting

Standard compost is a great soil amendment that continues to break down and slowly release nutrients to plants.Vermicompost is water soluble and can very quickly provide plants with a burst of nutrients. Standard compost is done outdoors. To add food waste to a compost pile may attract unwanted pests to your home and generate unpleasant smells. The compost pile must also be turned frequently to promote aerobic decomposition. A properly constructed and maintained vermicomposting bin can be used indoors and does not produce unpleasant odors. No turning is necessary. Standard compost needs a good deal of space. Vermicomposting systems can be compact and unassuming if need be.

Why Red Wigglers for composting?

Red wiggler worms live well together in colonies and don't burrow. They are more surface dwellers living just under the leaf litter. They naturally work their way up through their food source. This is another reason they work great in a container system always moving up as you add food and bedding layers.

How many worms do I need?

It is estimated that a worm can eat 1/2 its own body weight in food waste every day. Therefore 1 lb of worms (1000 worms) can eat roughly 1/2 lb of food per day. Average a week's worth of food waste by weight/day. Double that number is the maximum pounds of worms you would need to consume your food waste.

Breeding

Worms are hermaphroditic. This means they are both male/female. Therefore any 2 worms can come together, mate, and each produce 2-4 cocoons per week. Each cocoon can produce 1-3 baby worms in about 3 weeks. Eventually your population may exceed what you can generate in food waste or their container size. Consider starting a new bin and pass it on to a friend that has shown interest in your system.

Feeding

When feeding your worms you should divide up your container into feeding zones. Each time you feed your worms place the food in a different zone. The bigger the container, the more zones. Add the food just under your dry bedding top layer. As the top bedding layer begins to decompose and moisten add your food scraps on top of it and start a new top layer of dry shredded newspaper and cardboard. The zones will help reduce the buildup of food which could start to decompose and generate heat. The worms also need some space to rest and to breed away from the food supply. Also note that you should not overfeed your worms. I personally freeze/thaw all of my food waste before feeding to the worms. This helps to start them breaking down making them easier for the worms to consume. Another popular method is to put your scraps in a food processor a make a worm food chum. Each method is effective in helping your worms consume their meals a little quicker. What to feed: Fruits, veggies, egg shells, coffee grounds w/ paper filter, tea bags, smaller amounts of breads/pastas.The more you can chop up and grind down the material the faster the worms can work through it. You can add pre-composted materials and dried brown leaves. Break this material down into small pieces to assist the worms. Pre-composted cow, horse, or chicken droppings can also be added as a treat.

If you choose to go large scale consider contacting your local green markets for excess and rotting produce. Also contact your local coffee shop for their coffee grounds.

What not to feed: Meat scraps, dairy products, oily prepared foods, highly processed foods, spicy foods Also do not add green yard waste. This material will begin to decompose and generate heat. This can kill the worms. Do not add pet waste to your worm bin if you plan on using the castings on plants you will consume. Onions & Citrus: The worms are very sensitive to these types of items. If you have an outdoor compost bin they are better suited in that location.

Moisture is Key

The worms breath through their skin. In order to do this their surroundings must be moist. A dry environment can stress and kill the worms. Always use unchlorinated water. The chlorine can kill off your beneficial bacteria in the worm bin. Rain water is best.If you must use tap water place it in an open container for 24-48 hrs to allow the chlorine to off gas before applying it to your system. An system can also become too moist. This is especially an issue with plastic bins which retain a lot of moisture. A quick solution is to add more dry shredded paper which will absorb the excess moisture.

Other Considerations

Red wigglers most tolerate a pH level between 6.4 - 6.9. A small hand held pH meter can be used to monitor this.Red wigglers perform best in a temperature range between 50 - 90 F. Keep your bin in a well shaded and well ventilated area.