Is the shape of the girdle and overall baguette uniform on all four sides?

Layout

Before setting diamonds in any style,
it is essential to understand that preparing layout diamonds position is necessary to avoid placement problems that may arise at the time of setting. It also helps in choosing the right sized stones to fit in the
desired mounting.

The baguette needs to overlap the prongs at both ends by 1/3rd
of the prong’s diameter and baguette should fit the width of the cup
perfectly. It helps if you have baguettes with lesser depth and good
crown angles.

Now place all the baguettes on a hard
flat surface in layout position (table down) and compare their overall
crown height. For perfect setting of baguettes, crown height of all
baguettes should be same and tables should be at same level. Otherwise,
you’ll have to make adjustments in the seat while setting the stones.

Baguettes Layout

Seat Cutting Process

Seat cutting is a slow, step-by-step process and requires patience.

By using a saw blade, cut a groove across
the inside of the prong at the height where you want stone’s girdle to
rest. Remember that groove should not be more than 30% of the prong’s
total width.

Now with a flat beveled graver remove
metal from prong seat. Remember that the amount of metal removed should
be between 40 and 50 percent.

Use a small bur to trim and adjust the
angles of the inside walls of the side support (bur used must be small
and undersized, larger bur will remove too much metal from the sides of
support cup creating a larger seat). This process enables stone’s
pavilion to set properly in the seat.

Baguette Seat Grooving

Baguette Seat Burring

Before moving further confirm that tables of all the baguettes in row are even, at same level and fit tightly into the seat.

Setting Process

Now is the time to finally set your
baguettes. With a hammer, tap and partially bend the prongs downward on
to the baguettes to secure the stones in place.

Since prongs are small and thick, use of
hammer tool to tap the prongs is recommended instead of pliers to bend.
Bend only small amount of metal at a time. Any hurry at this point might damage the baguettes and will spoil your work done so far.
Go back and forth till grip of prongs on all baguettes is tight and
diamonds are secure. It’s important to check that prongs style on each
baguette is uniform.

Things to Remember

Setting baguettes becomes more difficult
task because generally, the unique shape of baguette doesn’t match the
cutting angles of the bur which makes the cut in metal.

In prong set baguettes, stones are set by
a single prong at both ends. Since corners of baguettes are very
fragile, so it is necessary for prongs to hold the full breadth of the
stone and protect them from getting chipped.

There should be deep and thick side metal
support as it will give allowance for making cutting adjustments for
stones with more depth.

If you use lightweight wires to support
the stones or thin prongs and weak supports you won’t be able to produce
quality piece of jewelry. Also, thin prongs will often snag in clothes
and make your setting loose and stone may fall.

Strong Baguette Prong Setting

Weak Baguette Prong Setting

Common Flaws of Prong Set Baguettes

Baguette with Improper Prong Grip

Loose Baguette

Angled Baguette

Buyer's Checklist of Prong Set Baguettes

Baguette Setting Checklist

A - Each baguette is set securely and there is no
movement in set baguettes. Diamond should not be loose. If so you can
ask the jeweler to tight the setting before buying.

B - You should also check side view before buying and baguettes seat should justify proportion of diamond.

C - If view from top, the baguettes should cover the cup immediately below it.

D - The width of the top of the cup holding the
baguettes should be beveled, not flat. It should be uniform, smooth and
dent or scratch free.

E - Craftsmanship is not perfect if group of
baguettes are set at different height and angle. As mentioned earlier
baguettes to be set should be of same overall height.

F - As a guideline you can check that prong contact is 20% to 30% of the baguettes crown.

G - Corners of baguettes are delicate and they
might get damage while setting. So check for it, if any of the diamond
in ring is damaged then ask the jeweler to replace it.

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