Gaudi in Context – A Walk through Catalan Modernisme

Recently, I was offered an opportunity to join a Context guided walk on Modernisme architecture in Barcelona.

What is Context, you ask? Here’s their introduction:

Context is a network of scholars and specialists—in disciplines including archaeology, art history, cuisine, urban planning, history, environmental science, and classics—who, in addition to our normal work as professors and researchers, design and lead in-depth walking seminars for small groups of intellectually curious travelers.

So a walking seminar, then – not a walking tour.

The walks

Context offers a number of walks in Barcelona, focusing on the Gothic Quarter, the Spanish Civil War, farm-to-fork, chocolate, and more. I’m quite taken with Art Nouveau, Jugend, just about everything fin-de-siècle, so I chose a walk called Gaudi in Context.

The Catalan version of Art Nouveau is Modernisme and it’s about more than architecture. Modernisme is an entire movement closely linked to Catalan culture and identity. Yet, it is through architecture this movement is best known, especially the works of Antoni Gaudi.

Our Context specialist is Biel Heredero, an art history student from the University of Barcelona who wrote his thesis on Catalan artists. Biel is enthusiastic, passionate even – both about Catalonia and his field of expertise.

A unique feature of Context’s guided walks is the small groups (max six people). We’re only three, leaving plenty of time and opportunity to satisfy everyone’s whims and questions. Our little group is possibly above average demanding, but Biel answers everyone’s questions – no matter how silly – with patience and humour.

As we amble through the centre of Barcelona, we learn how Gaudí’s works was inspired by turn-of-the-century Catalan society. We learn about Catalan history, about the city’s expansion and about Ildefons Cerda, city planner extraordinaire (think von Haussmann and Paris).

The works of Gaudi is protected by UNESCO, and the World Heritage listing comprises seven of his works scattered around Barcelona. I was familiar with a few of these: the still-not-finished cathedral La Sagrada Familia, and the intriguing public space that is Parc Güell. So I was keen to take a closer look at some of the other, lesser known works of the eccentric architect.

La Pedrera

The Gaudi in Context-walk includes a comprehensive visit at the slightly absurd, yet utterly fabulous apartment building Casa Milá, better known as La Pedrera. I love the plaster ceilings, the wrought-iron details, the peculiar structures and the views from the roof…

Gaudi ventilation – and a view of La Sagrada Familia from the roof of La Pedrera

testify to Gaudí’s exceptional creative contribution to the development of architecture and building technology in the late 19th and early 20th centuries…

But Modernisme isn’t only Gaudi

Biel introduces two other important Modernisme architects: Lluís Domènech i Montaner and Josep Puig i Cadafalch.

Casa Terrades (Cadafalch)

I was already familiar with Montaner. A year ago, when I last visited Barcelona, I stopped by Hospital de Sant Pau, (which I’ve been meaning to write about, and will soon), yet another World Heritage site in this city, and Montaner’s creation. Cadafalch is new to me, and clearly Biel’s favourite. I’m especially intrigued with the political statements he added to his buildings.

The walk includes a visit inside one of Cadafalch’s buildings as well, Palau del Baró de Quadras (now housing Casa Asia).

Our walk ends on the busy Passeig de Gràcia, where four Modernisme architects (our three, and Enric Sagnier) are gathered together on the Block of Discord (Illa de la Discòrdia in Catalan). Here’s Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Gaudi’s Casa Battló, in supremely clashing styles:

My verdict
Three educational and entertaining hours packed with interesting discoveries. A Context walk in Barcelona costs €65 p.p., perhaps a bit steep, but I think good value nonetheless. Entrance to La Pedrera is included, which otherwise costs €16.50.

61 Responses to “Gaudi in Context – A Walk through Catalan Modernisme”

A absolutely love all Gaudi buildings, they are so fascinating. This Context walk sounds like something interesting (espacially as I am an urban planner) however, so far I’ve never attended a similar kind of guided walk. Thanks for sharing your experiences Anita recently posted..Berlin – Schloss Charlottenburg

After having taken a guided walk through Harlem with Context, I wish I had done the same in Barcelona. It’s the little additional bits of history that the docents pass on that make the tours so interesting. I would have loved to have learnt about the Montaner and Cadafalch buildings.jenny@atasteoftravel recently posted..Dar es Salaam’s Colourful Markets

I took a guided walk in Charleston, South Carolina and found that I learned so much history in the two hours that it was very worthwhile. It wasn’t quite as steep a price but this walk sounds like it’s being led by such knowledgeable people I can hardly fault them for wanting to make a buck. Barcelona is endlessly fascinating isn’t it.Leigh recently posted..Conquering Fears, Conquering Canyons

What a great sounding tour. Will need to keep it in mind when we get back to Barcelona. Loved your photos, especially the first one.Jackie Smith recently posted..TPThursday: Hauntingly Beautiful Venice

Yes I have. Definitely the way to learn about a place. I really love bicycle tours as well. Gaudi and the other modernists have certainly stamped themselves on Barcelona.jan recently posted..Big Balls of Mud – Moeraki Style

Gaudi was one strange dude, but I get the feeling my appreciation of his work might improve if I spent three hours with somebody who not only understood Gaudi, but could explain him to me. Of course the same thing applies to the entire female gender, but I’m not holding my breath to find somebody who can explain them to me.Steve recently posted..We’re Spending Christmas at Disneyland Again

I like the idea of a context walk – they really flesh things out a bit. Sounds like they took their time and you got a real education out of it instead of a quick hit or miss kinda thing. I’ll put this on my list. Thanks for sharing!InsideJourneys recently posted..New York City Before Hurricane Sandy

Love guided walking tours and take part whenever I can! I’m not usually a fan of modernism but am very intrigued by Gaudi’s work. Thanks for sharing the architecture and info on a great walking tour.Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista recently posted..Pictures From Above

Context does such a good job in their walking tours. I got a taste of Modernisme when I was in Barcelona, but didn’t get a chance to tour inside any of Gaudi’s buildings. I’d love to walk on the roof of La Pedrera! Great photos and interesting commentary, Sophie.Cathy Sweeney recently posted..Barcelona’s Block of Discord

65pp is quite a bit, although entry to La Pedrera is around 20 euros, so I guess if you consider the expertise of the people, and the small size of the group, it sounds like an actual bargain!Laurence recently posted..In photos: A tour of the Hobbit film set

I really enjoyed guided tours when visiting a new place – I learn so much more than just reading about it and searching it out on my own. So this sounds wonderful!Becca@R We There Yet Mom? recently posted..Friday Daydreamin': Thankful for Texas

That Context guided seminar sounds divine. I like that it’s in-depth and a small group. I remember looking at some of these places in Barcelona and would have loved to know more.Michele @ Malaysian Meanders recently posted..Searching Singapore for a Taste of Texas

This sounds great! I’d do it. Always wander around and can’t be bothered reading much about it before/after, so a tour would be perfect. Sounds like they’re really knowledgeable and show you the more hidden gems as well.Christina recently posted..Return from Middle Earth – the Blog4NZ tour is complete

I went only on free walking tours and I loved them. You pay at the end how much you think the guide deserves for his/her work. The disadvantage is that it’s so popular that there are too many people in the group… even up to 50 people.

I took a guided tour of the town of Paraty in Brazil Very interesting history: slaves, free masonry, trade and the like. And beautiful too.

You know I always have something to say about Barcelona… here goes: my maternal great- great grandfather was a stonemason and worked in the construction of La Pedrera. Sorry, I had to share it .Ana O recently posted..Weekly Photo Challenge: Foreign

How exciting, Ana! It’s wonderful how you have personal connections to Catalonia. La Pedrera must hold special meaning to you. And it’s such a unique structure, too. Must have been inspiring to work on.

I haven’t joined one of their tours but it sounds really interesting. When I was in Barcelona in Feb. I walked all around the city- love seeing all the art. It seems like it is hard not to stumble upon something beautiful there!jade recently posted..Exploring Bat Caves in Puerto Rico

A Context tour sounds like something I’d really enjoy. It’s always a great idea to access local experts and it sounds as though Context tours go well beyond the superficial. I’ll be checking their website. Really enjoyed this post and pics!Lesley Peterson recently posted..ArtSmart Roundtable: Genre paintings of Holland’s Golden Age

Gaudi certainly has a very unique architectural style. When you see his works they are almost always the most distinct buildings within the block. Good pictures Sophie!Andy recently posted..Road Envy: The Opposite of Homesickness

I’ve always loved Gaudí’s fantastic style, Sophie, and your series of images here really shows it off so well. And to answer your question, no, I’ve never been on a guided walking tour, but I can see just how much one could benefit from it in a situation such as this.