Czeching out Prague

For more than a decade Prague has been a high priority destination for European travellers. On a recent visit, Candice Reed discovered this beautiful city has lost none of its ancient gravitas and cosmopolitan sparkle.

MADE even more famous in Hollywood films like XXX and Mission Impossible, the Czech Republic capital is aesthetically pleasing with a traditional old town consisting of buildings dating back to the 13th century, a modernised new town, the largest ancient castle in the world and the famous Charles Bridge open only to pedestrians.

Prague’s Czech name – Maticka Praha – translates to mean ‘little mother Prague’, and its compact medieval centre remains a maze of cobbled lanes, courtyards, dark passages and churches, all watched over by an 1100-year-old castle. The city is easily covered on foot and despite the numerous lanes sprouting from city squares is it easy to navigate.

Prague’s origins have been traced to as far back as the 7th Century and many believe the Slavic princess Libuse created the city. Legend has it one day the Princess had a vision while standing on a cliff overlooking the land she and her husband, Prince Premysl, ruled. Proclaiming the words, “I see a great city whose glory will touch the stars,” she instructed a castle to be built in the exact location a man was currently building his own house.

“And because even the great nobleman must bow low before a threshold, you shall give it the name Praha.” Her words were obeyed and nearly two centuries later Prague was born.

In modern history the city was kidnapped by communism for 40 years, but fortunately the city maintained its stunning cityscape as it was mostly undamaged during World War II. During the 20th century the Czech nationalist movement was born. The Czech people had no interest in fighting for their Austrian masters in World War I, and neighbouring Slovakia was equally reluctant to take up arms for their German occupiers. Leaders from both independence movements approached then US President Wilson, who was actively trying to build the League of Nations, asking for help in achieving their dream. With Allied support, Czechoslovakia became an independent nation in 1918 and Prague became its capital.

The young country was then presented with a series of tests; firstly it faced the Great Depression, only then to be occupied by Nazi Germany in 1939. Prague’s community of some 120,000 Jews were all but wiped out with almost three-quarters either starved or murdered in concentration camps. On May 5, 1945, Prague’s residents rose up against German occupation forces as the Red Army approached from the east. Most of Prague was liberated before the Soviets arrived. Today, Liberation Day is celebrated on May 8 whereas under communism it was celebrated on May 9.

In 1968, after years of gradual liberalisation under General Secretary Dubcek, the ‘Prague Spring’ came into full bloom. The main goals of the movement included a full democracy, an end to censorship, and ‘socialism with a human face’. This upset the powers in Moscow and tanks were sent into Prague. Some 58 people died, almost 300,000 sympathisers lost their jobs and Dubcek was forced to find employment with the Slovak Forestry Department.

Prague has overcome these dark days and rebounded with a youthful social scene mixing young Czechs with hordes of tourists looking for a good time. Its nightlife is lively with nightclubs located throughout the city and trams running 24 hours to ensure a safe journey home at all hours. But it is during the day light hours that Prague is truly on show.

Prague Castle, overlooking the entire city from a prized vantage point, is the most popular sight in Prague. Measuring at 570 meters long, on average 128 meters wide, and covering 7.28 hectares, it is the largest ancient castle in the world, however you would barely know from looking. Located in the centre of the castle grounds is St Adalbert Cathedral, the only ancient looking building of the castle grounds. The cathedral was founded in 1344 and after 600 years of construction was completed and encloses St Wenceslas (made famous by the Christmas carol Good King Wenceslas) Chapel and crypt tombs of Bohemian kings. The castle was initially constructed in the 9th century by Prince Boøivoj and has undergone four major reconstructions to be transformed from a wooden fortress to a series of modernized buildings that stand today. The castle has three courtyards and has always been the seat of Czech rulers as well as the official residence.

Charles Bridge, the oldest bridge of the city, was built in place of Judita’s Bridge which was badly damaged in a major flood in 1342. The bridge was commissioned by Charles IV and both ends of the bridge are fortified by two formidable towers. From 1683 to 1928, 30 statues of the Catholic saints were constructed and erected on the bridge which stretches for 515 meters and is covered by market stalls from start to finish.

Prague Old Town is the oldest of the towns of Prague and gained the privileges of a town in the 13th century. However, its name dates back to the 14th century when the New Town was founded. The centre of the Old Town has always been the Old Town Square dominated by the Church of Our Lady of Týn and the Town Hall.

It is the combination of this rich history, culture and landmarks that have made Prague so attractive to the traveller. After the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe in 1989, Prague became one of the first Eastern European cities safe enough to travel around and has been a forerunner in opening up Eastern Europe’s current tourism boom. But not everyone has welcomed this trend and injection to the Czech Republic’s economy.

With more and more visitors invading the city of a hundred spires every year it has responded by erecting several modern attractions in the last 15 years, including the glass Dancing Building that is nicknamed the Fred and Ginger Building. Several residents claim these developments have ‘destroyed the city’s character’ and during a recent city debate Prague’s deputy mayor referred to the, “disappearing soul of Prague.” Frustrations are also vented at modern glass and steel buildings such as the Myslbek Building near Wenceslas Square and the Charles Square Centre. Shortly after the debate Czech architect Jakub Cigler featured in a newspaper article with this response: “Prague is stuck right now in unrestrained development, which is being driven purely by tourism. I don’t think this is enough and I think it’s necessary for the city of Prague to be demanding some clear visions and ideas of how it should develop. It’s not just about the hundred golden towers in the centre and lots of tourists with cameras, but that the city should be an attractive place for normal life, like Paris.”

And although the battle between the tourism boards and residents of Prague continues, the city remains delightful at every turn and will undoubtedly continue to be a popular destination.