Bonnat – Madagascar

Perhaps the least successful interpretation of this fashionable region, here is a chocolate with a lot of bite to it and perhaps also one that suffers from overroasting. The result is a chocolate with little delicacy and too much bitterness – almost the opposite of what a good Madagascar is. Bonnat generally makes good varietals but if you like Madagascar look elsewhere.

Reviews

Hans-Peter Rot: 14-Dec-2005

SCORES

Score/10

Weight

Aroma:

10%

Look/snap:

5%

Taste:

35%

Melt:

5%

Length:

15%

Opinion:

30%

Total/100:

100%

INFO

Best before:

Batch num:

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BonnatÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s custom of simple and unpolished looking bars could be considered commendable for its retro appearance, but the color itself is very dark purplish like other “”dark”” Madagascans, almost brooding and ominous. The aroma brings scents to match, too, namely sharp cranberries and prunes with acrid coffee and wood. ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s very austere and potent, almost too dark for this varietal; the probability of a delicate and complex flavor is near zero.

Prunes and cranberries start things off assertively with coffee lending support and a subtle bitterness as well, which overall makes the chocolate dark and very bold. So far, so good but suddenly, overriding waves of bitterness supplant all else, with coffee taking over and tobacco at the end. Texture also shows major problems, crumbling in some instances rather then melting and generally not taking on a uniform smoothness whatsoever.

Normally Bonnat is a liberal roaster, but I think someone shouldÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ve fallen asleep while roasting these beans. Actually, the bitterness is so pervasive that nothing in the factory could mask such an abrasive sensation, not even extensive conching and heavy-handed additions of cocoa butter. I suppose, then, this is how a Hachez bar would taste before receiving its five-star accommodations in the conche. This is the rough and rugged mountain man before hitting an Armani Beauty boutique.

Alex Rast: 5-Jun-2005

SCORES

Score/10

Weight

Aroma:

10%

Look/snap:

5%

Taste:

35%

Melt:

5%

Length:

15%

Opinion:

30%

Total/100:

100%

INFO

Best before:

Batch num:

Source:

Supplied by:

Upon unwrapping the bar reveals an intriguing red-tan-brown colour, suggesting a very muddy river. Indeed, even the rather uneven moulding conveys that impression of flow, so that in some ways it seems to swim underneath you. Breaking it, however, quickly convinces that this bar is very solid.

The aroma strongly suggests dark roasting. Woody and coffee prevail, with underlying hints of molasses and tobacco. Most of the aroma is obviously of the roast – not really a good sign with a delicate cacao like Madagascar. The flavour confirms the dark-roast feel. There is a brief flash of cherry, and then a *very* bitter woody, coffee flavour strikes. The woodiness reminds of cedar, perhaps in its own not a bad thing but the only one of the Madagascar’s typical varietal notes that stand out here. None of the characteristic citrus or almond notes seem to have survived. In the end the bitterness takes over.

Texture is a slight improvement over what Bonnat usually produces, although by absolute standards only average in texture. While dry, it is also curiously pasty, and this leaves one at a loss as to cocoa butter content. Ultimately this bar is problematic, though, mostly on account of the flavour (and clumsy overroasting), leaving one with an I-coulda-been-a-contender sensation.

Martin Christy: 2-Feb-2002

SCORES

Score/10

Weight

Aroma:

10%

Look/snap:

5%

Taste:

35%

Melt:

5%

Length:

15%

Opinion:

30%

Total/100:

100%

INFO

Best before:

Batch num:

Source:

Supplied by:

Begins with citrus but develops into sultanas passing into liquorice. Hints of treacle toffee and butter. Hard clay like structure and hard melt. Smooth and steady. No fireworks here but no flaws either. Acceptable length with no surprises. Lives up to Bonnat’s usual standards.