Learning these basics is a great way to test out new techniques, and for that reason manual photography will always be important. From image format to adjusting your setting to time-tested composition techniques, this handy cheat sheet is a fantastic primer or a great reminder, whatever level you may be at.

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/13/how-to-pose-full-length-males-free-posing-guide/feed/2Camera technology: which photography brand is winning the race? (Infographic)http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/07/camera-technology-which-photography-brand-is-winning-the-race-infographic/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/07/camera-technology-which-photography-brand-is-winning-the-race-infographic/#commentsMon, 06 Jul 2015 23:01:42 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=604073Which photography brand is winning the race of camera technology and innovation? This insightful new infographic from Clifton Cameras takes at the early years of Nikon, Canon, Olympus and Fujifilm from the creation of Nippon Kogaku (Nikon) in 1917 and on through the decades of the last century, pinpointing major developments in camera technology.

]]>Which photography brand is winning the race of camera technology and innovation? This insightful new infographic from Clifton Cameras takes at the early years of Nikon, Canon, Olympus and Fujifilm from the creation of Nippon Kogaku (Nikon) in 1917 and on through the decades of the last century, pinpointing major developments in camera technology.

The infographic highlights the introduction of iconic models such as the Olympus Pen half frame in 1959 and the world’s first eye controlled camera, the Canon EOS in 1992. It then examines the emergence of Apple and its camera phone technology, which is now the world’s most widely used camera.

Which brand do you feel is paving the way with true innovation? Let us know in the comments!

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/07/camera-technology-which-photography-brand-is-winning-the-race-infographic/feed/811 important photography filters and when they’ll improve your images (cheat sheet)http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/02/11-important-photography-filters-and-when-theyll-improve-your-images-cheat-sheet/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/02/11-important-photography-filters-and-when-theyll-improve-your-images-cheat-sheet/#commentsWed, 01 Jul 2015 23:01:35 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=603773In this great photography cheat sheet from the team at The Studio, they've rounded up 11 of the most important photography filters, illustrated their effects with and without the filter mounted and explained when you might want to use one to improve your image.

]]>Now that we’re fully entrenched in the digital age and all have access to photo editing software that can work wonders with your images, it’s all too easy to believe that the traditional photography filter is unnecessary.

But there’s a lot to be said for still using traditional filter effects. Some photography filters, such as polarisers and strong neutral density filters, can produce effects that are time-consuming or even impossible to replicate digitally, while others can allow you to shoot in conditions that could otherwise damage your lens.

In this great photography cheat sheet from the team at The Studio, they’ve rounded up 11 of the most important photography filters, illustrated their effects with and without the filter mounted and explained when you might want to use one to improve your image.

]]>Knowing how to pose full-length portraits can be challenging for any photographer.

While you may know what you’re doing behind the lens, no amount of camera knowledge can erase a bad pose. Inexperienced portrait models may not know how to stand or where to put their hands, and as a result your portraits may convey a feeling of tension or anxiety.

It’s not just the position of the model that’s important. You need to consider your own angle too, as camera height alone can have an enormous impact on your work.

In our latest photography cheat sheet we show you nine classic poses for shooting full-length portraits of women. Simply click on the photography infographic to see the larger version, or drag and drop it to your desktop.

And stay tuned for our next guide on how to pose full-length male portraits…

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/29/how-to-pose-full-length-female-portraits-free-posing-guide/feed/0Free wedding poses cheat sheet: 9 classic pictures of the bride and groomhttp://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/14/free-wedding-poses-cheat-sheet-9-classic-pictures-of-the-bride-and-groom/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/14/free-wedding-poses-cheat-sheet-9-classic-pictures-of-the-bride-and-groom/#commentsSun, 14 Jun 2015 11:30:04 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=602312Shooting wedding portraits of the bride and groom is one of the most challenging tasks of any wedding photographer, whether you’re a seasoned hand or its your first time. In this free photography cheat sheet we illustrate 9 classic wedding poses and explain how to capture them.

]]>Shooting wedding portraits of the bride and groom is one of the most challenging tasks of any wedding photographer, whether you’re a seasoned hand or its your first time. In this free photography cheat sheet we illustrate 9 classic wedding poses and explain how to capture them.

When Uncle Bob bought you a pint of cider and asked if you’d photograph his daughter’s wedding, it seemed rude to say no. After all, he knows you’re the photographer in the family, with one of those big digital SLRs and a camera bag bristling with impressive lenses – so you can’t possibly let him down.

But now, in the cold light of day, the thought of shooting a wedding is a little daunting. You’re sitting nervously, contemplating the day ahead – knowing the memories of the day all rest on your ability to harness the technical and creative sides of your photography.

But you can take the fear factor out of wedding photos by following this guide to nine classic wedding poses for taking timeless photos of the bride and groom. With each pose we’ve explained why it works and how you can capture it for yourself.

And once you’ve digested these tips, don’t miss our further list of required reading for the aspiring wedding photography down below!

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/14/free-wedding-poses-cheat-sheet-9-classic-pictures-of-the-bride-and-groom/feed/0What is a raw file? We explain the pros and conshttp://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/08/what-is-a-raw-file-we-explain-the-pros-and-cons/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/08/what-is-a-raw-file-we-explain-the-pros-and-cons/#commentsSun, 07 Jun 2015 23:01:58 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=601712What is a raw file exactly, and is it always better than a JPEG? Shooting raw files can transform the quality of your photos, and in this tutorial we explain the most important pros and cons you need to be aware of.

]]>What is a raw file exactly, and is it always better than a JPEG? Shooting raw files can transform the quality of your photos, and in this tutorial we explain the most important pros and cons you need to be aware of.

What does RAW stand for?

Really Artistic Work. No, not really. Even though camera manufacturers often refer them as ‘raw’ files, it doesn’t stand for anything in the same way that JPEG does (Joint Photographic Experts Group – the name of the organisation that agreed the standard).

As the name suggests, raw files comprise the raw image data taken by the camera sensor, along with information about the camera settings and processing parameters set at the time the file was recorded.

So what’s the difference between raw files and JPEGs?

At the point a picture is taken, nothing. JPEGs start out as raw files: it’s just that the camera converts them into JPEGs before saving them to the memory card. This means that all the image settings, such as white balance, sharpening, colour and contrast, are baked into the JPEG.

With raw files, this information is saved alongside the image data rather than being permanently applied to it.

Raw files also hold up much better when you edit them. JPEGs are 8-bit files, which means that they hold less colour information than 12- or 14-bit raw files. You’ll see colours start to break up more quickly when you start manipulating a JPEG.

You need to do this in order to create an image that you can share or print, such as a JPEG or a TIFF. There are two ways that you can convert a raw file: either in-camera, with models that offer this facility, or in special raw conversion software.

The latter is the better option, as it offers a more powerful and versatile set of controls. Camera manufacturers usually supply raw software with their SLRs, although third-party software, such as Lightroom, Capture One Pro and Adobe Camera Raw (part of Photoshop and Photoshop Elements), is capable of impressive results.

If I need to process a raw file, how is it that I can see a preview image on the back of the camera?

The preview is always based on a JPEG version of the photo. The histogram reading is also based on this JPEG version, but the original raw file contains a wider dynamic range and more exposure latitude.

This essentially means that the raw file holds more detail in dark areas and bright areas than the JPEG, and you can also create a useable picture from a file that has been over-exposed or under-exposed.

All the changes you make while editing a raw file are what’s known as ‘non-destructive’ – they’re never permanently applied to it. Rather than being baked into the raw file, the adjustments are saved alongside it as a set of instructions, which the raw software follows to build a JPEG or TIFF copy of the final image.

Raw files are much larger than JPEGs, so they take up more room on a memory card. They also reduce the burst rate at which you can take pictures as they fill up the buffer – where the camera temporarily stores images before copying them to the memory card – much faster than JPEGs.

This why sports and press photographers prefer shooting JPEGs. Some cameras offer the facility to shoot smaller raw files that increase the burst rate compared with regular raw files, at the expense of image size.

Raw software explained

Click on the infographic to see the larger version

How to get more from your raw files

As well as delivering the best quality from your camera and offering creative opportunities, raw files can be seen as a safety net, allowing you to change your mind about some of the settings you made when you took a photo. It’s worth getting things right in-camera though, as this will give you a more accurate preview.

Exposure
Although you can’t change the aperture, shutter speed and ISO once you’ve taken a shot, you can improve the overall exposure.

White balance
You can choose a white balance preset as you can on your camera, or set the white balance manually using sliders or by clicking on areas in the image.

Picture styles
Most cameras offer Picture Styles, but you can change the levels of colour, contrast and sharpness in a raw converter.

Noise reduction
Fine-tune the amount of noise reduction that’s applied to high-ISO and long-exposure shots, as well as underexposed images you’ve brightened.

Aspect ratio
A raw file is always saved at the native aspect ratio of the sensor (typically 3 x 2). If you set a different aspect ratio on the camera and you’re shooting JPEG, you’re stuck with it – raw lets you change your mind.

Spot removal
If you haven’t cleaned your sensor in a while, chances are you’ll end up with dust spots on your images. You can get rid of these when you process a raw file, then apply this change to all the pictures in a series.

Looking at file sizes…

Even though a large, fine-quality JPEG image has the same number of pixels in at as a raw file from the same camera, it has a smaller file size because it is saved using ‘lossy’ compression. Lossy means that some picture data is lost in order to create the smaller file size.

Raw files use lossless compression so you can squeeze fewer of the bigger files onto a memory card than you can with JPEGs. Some cameras offer the option of shooting a raw file and a JPEG at the same time, slowing down the shooting speed even more. Here’s how significant the difference is, taken from the Canon 5D Mark III:

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/06/08/what-is-a-raw-file-we-explain-the-pros-and-cons/feed/1Best camera settings for moving landscapes (free photography cheat sheet)http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/05/08/best-camera-settings-for-moving-landscapes-free-photography-cheat-sheet/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/05/08/best-camera-settings-for-moving-landscapes-free-photography-cheat-sheet/#commentsThu, 07 May 2015 23:01:38 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=600642When you first start out in landscape photography, observing a few of the classic conventions can really make a difference to the kind of results you get. Just knowing how to adjust aperture so you get maximum depth of field in an image is a big help, as is understanding some of the classic theories... Continue reading →

But eventually you want to break free from convention and try your own thing. One of the great ways to get creative with landscapes is to introduce movement into your pictures.

Setting up your camera to capture motion in the landscape, however, can be quite difficult to figure out at first.

Below we’ve provided a simple cheat sheet with some of the best camera settings for capturing moving landscapes. Keep in mind these are just a starting point. Try these, and then you can experiment from there…

]]>The Exposure Triangle sounds like the name of a complex spy novel, but in reality this is the term used for the three fundamental elements of exposure: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Our latest photography cheat sheet illustrates the Exposure Triangle and how it affects your camera settings.

Click on the infographic to see the larger version

The Exposure Triangle Explained

Creating a harmonious exposure using the aperture, shutter speed and ISO is a juggling act. As soon as you make a decision about one element, you’ll need to compromise with another.

The trick to balancing The Exposure Triangle is to get all three elements working together so you get the results you want ,and not what the camera tells you you can have.

In addition to their role in exposure, the choice of aperture, shutter speed and ISO have a significant impact on the look and feel of your pictures.

Aperture, as we mentioned above, affects the depth of field, or how much of an image appears sharp. Shutter speed also affects image sharpness, with slower shutter speeds leading to blurred images – whether that’s caused by the subject moving or the camera not being held still.

The choice of ISO enables you to use the optimum combination of aperture and shutter speed when the amount of light would normally prevent you from doing so. However, increasing the ISO also reduces the quality of your images.

Use the exposure triangle (see our infographic above) to decide how to adjust the exposure: the key is that when you increase the exposure for one element (a yellow arrow), you need to reduce it for one or both of the other elements (the grey arrows) in order to maintain the same exposure.

The camera can do this for you in Program, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, but it’s something you’ll need to consider when shooting in Manual mode.

Get the hang of this relationship, and you’ll gain much more control over the look and feel of every image you capture.

It’s also worth remembering that at one time, shutter speed and aperture were the only exposure variables you could change from one shot to the next as the ISO was set by the type of film you were using, but the introduction of digital cameras has made it possible to change ISO on the fly rather than unloading film or switching bodies.

Photographers now have more control over exposure than ever before. Now, let’s take a look at some of the common questions new photographers have about exposure…

Understanding exposure in photography

Image by Marcus Hawkins. Click on the image to see the larger version.

What’s the first thing I need to know about exposure in photography?

Exposure – allowing light to hit the camera sensor to record an image – is measured in what’s commonly referred to as ‘stops’, with each stop representing either double or half the level of exposure of the adjacent stop. Increase the exposure by one stop, and the camera sensor receives twice the level of exposure. Decrease it by one stop, and the exposure level is halved.

The three camera settings that give you control over the exposure – aperture, shutter speed and ISO – can each be measured in stops. For instance, a shutter speed of 1/50 sec is one stop slower than 1/100 sec, which means the sensor is exposed for twice as long. However, the same 1/50 sec shutter speed exposes the sensor for half the time of a shutter speed of 1/25 sec.

ISO is similarly clear-cut, with an ISO of 400 one stop more sensitive than ISO 200, but one stop less sensitive than ISO 800. The relationship between the range of apertures available on a lens is similar, but the numerical sequence is more confusing: the fact that f/5.6 is one stop smaller than f/4 but one stop larger than f/8 takes a bit of getting used to.

Once you activate the camera meter by half-pressing the shutter release, the camera will suggest an exposure based on the brightness of the area being metered. This is usually expressed in the order of a shutter speed value at a given aperture and ISO – say 1/60 sec at f/8, ISO 200.

In the camera’s automatic and scene modes, that’s about as far as it goes. Just shoot. The semi-automatic exposure modes – Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and Program – give you more control over how you expose the shot, each in a different way; while Manual mode gives you full responsibility over aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Although there might be a preferable exposure, there are a number of ways in which to achieve it. It’s all about balance: if you increase one of the three settings that control the exposure (aperture, shutter speed or ISO) then one or both of the other settings have to decrease by an equivalent total to maintain the same overall level of exposure.

For example, an exposure of 1/25 sec at f/16, ISO 100 is equivalent to an exposure of 1/400 sec at f/2.8, ISO 100. Because the shutter speed has been reduced by four stops (1/25 – 1/50 – 1/100 – 1/200 – 1/400), which means less light is being captured, the aperture has to increase in size by four stops (f/16 – f/11 – f/8 – f/5.6 – f/2.8) to allow more light in – otherwise the picture would be four stops darker.

Which combination you choose is down to the look you want to achieve: do you want a large depth of field or a shallow one? Do you want moving objects to be razor-sharp or have motion blur?

Don’t panic! If you choose to shoot in one of the semi-automatic modes, the camera does most of the donkey work for you. Once you set an aperture in Aperture Priority mode, for example, the shutter speed will be set automatically. If you decide to change the aperture, the camera will adjust the shutter speed accordingly to maintain the same exposure.

It’s a similar story with Shutter Priority mode: you set the shutter speed, and the camera attempts to match this with an appropriate aperture. You can even use the Auto ISO option to let the camera handle that choice of sensitivity too. In Program mode, you can simply shift the combination of aperture and shutter speed with a spin of the camera’s control dial.

Of course, all of these adjustments rely on the camera having achieved the optimum exposure reading to begin with – and, as we learned last issue, this doesn’t always happen. This is where exposure compensation plays a part.

]]>http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/04/15/the-exposure-triangle-aperture-shutter-speed-and-iso-explained/feed/0How to photograph early spring flowers (free cheat sheet)http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/03/13/photograph-early-spring-flowers-free-cheat-sheet/
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/03/13/photograph-early-spring-flowers-free-cheat-sheet/#commentsFri, 13 Mar 2015 00:01:32 +0000http://dcw.foxtrot.future.net.uk/?p=587883Discover how to shoot early spring flowers. Download our free photography cheat sheet and discover the best camera settings to get you started this spring!

Early spring flowers offer you some great opportunities to shoot splashes of colour in an otherwise still dormant landscape. Whether it’s in your garden, a public park or even on the side of the road, there’s plenty of fantastic early spring flower photos for the taking.

In this new photography cheat sheet we’ve listed some of the best camera settings to get you started shooting early spring flowers.

As always, there are no hard and fast rules here. These settings are great to get you started, and from here you can experiment with other creative effects!