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Hey, I'm considering doing this project also, but I have one issue. Why is it necessary to put in a noid and pneumatic actuator into the grip frame? Couldn't it be possible to simply put an electromagnetic sear tripper straight into the board so it trips the sear. I had this old one from my PMI Piranha, and I thought i could use it...

The 9 Volt is there for size comparison. I realize that I would need to mill it down a bit. Would it still work?

you have to use a capacitor. might as well use a spyder frame. or you can reinvent the wheel..i know i have tried a few times.

power to the eyes turns off when you degas your gun. i love level ten!

Seems eminent that I will be trying this soon. Was looking at picking up an Etek frame with board. However, from what I've researched, the Etek uses a different solenoid that the Ego uses. I "believe" the Ego uses a 5v solenoid (difficulty finding info on the Ego solenoid), but I have found that the Etek uses a 6v solenoid. Would I be limited to using 6v solenoids, or could I use the 5v solenoids that are popular and easier to find?

Seems eminent that I will be trying this soon. Was looking at picking up an Etek frame with board. However, from what I've researched, the Etek uses a different solenoid that the Ego uses. I "believe" the Ego uses a 5v solenoid (difficulty finding info on the Ego solenoid), but I have found that the Etek uses a 6v solenoid. Would I be limited to using 6v solenoids, or could I use the 5v solenoids that are popular and easier to find?

You can use the 5 or 6 volt solenoids,... it wont kill anything major in the long run.

You just cant have a board that is underpowered,.. like the Racegun boards.

Thanks. I'll give it a shot then. Was just worried about sending 6volts into a 5volt solenoid and causing failure (short term or long term). I do not see a maximum voltage listed in the datasheets of most solenoids.

Thanks. I'll give it a shot then. Was just worried about sending 6volts into a 5volt solenoid and causing failure (short term or long term). I do not see a maximum voltage listed in the datasheets of most solenoids.

General rule of thumb is "not more than double the voltage + 2/4volts".

If your looking at a solenoid,.. post it up here with the complete make and model and I will just tell you.

Hopefully someone on here can help me solve some issues with my egomag. Here's the story:

I bought an egomag on in the BST that wasn't fully tuned. I knew this beforehand so no biggie there. When I gassed it up and turned it on, I could fire one shot, but would have to wait for pressure to build up before the ram could fully actuate and fire again. Think billy ball (for those that haven't heard about it, a quick search on either pbn or mcarterbrown will fill you in ) I tried troubleshooting it myself. I turned up the LPR a bit and when that didn't help, I took apart the ram to see if there was anything I could fix. I took off the o ring on the plunger seat to let it slide better and superglued the plunger to the plunger seat to keep it from falling out (If these terms are incorrect, please advise). This didn't help either so I turned the LPR up further. This blew a hose, possibly damaged the solenoid, and prompted me to search the BST for a good used intelliframe.

I guess paintball withdrawal and winter idleness prompted me to look for a way to get the egomag up and running. I purchased a micro rock from palmers and a new mpa3. The plunger on the mpa3 came loose so it will have to be superglued before further testing. I swapped my old one in, but no luck. I'm still getting one usable shot and then having to wait several seconds before I can fire again. The x valve I'm using has a ult in it, if that has any bearing on the situation.

So, any solutions come to mind? A new or different solenoid might have a faster recharge rate. The solenoid currently in the gun is the SMC SY113A-SG-PM3. The best idea I can think of is to send the entire setup and extra parts to someone who knows what they're doing.

Almost sounds like your solenoid has been over pressurized and is toast.

~ P8nt

I honestly don't know what the dwell is at or how to adjust it. I will see if pushing buttons and cycling through settings will find it but I have not come across it. And yeah, it wouldn't surprise me if the solenoid done for. I just didn't really want to buy a new solenoid, I was hoping a new LPR and mpa3 would get things up and running.

As of now, I think I'll just fork out some cash for another solenoid. After buying a micro rock and other components, I might as well. Other people have built these so I know that I can build one or get one built for me too!

If the gun doesn't have anti-chop eyes installed, the gun will not fire correctly upon powering it up. The eyes will turn themselves on everytime you turn the gun on. So everytime you turn the gun on, you'll need to turn the eyes off. However, ignore this if your gun does indeed have the eyes custom installed.

I have not found the eye setting after cycling through menus. The board is an 06 stock ego board, I think. If the eye settings/lack of eyes were causing the problem, would the solenoid still click with every trigger pull? Because the solenoid is still clicking, the mpa3 just isn't recharging fast enough.

When my new solenoid gets here I will test it and let you guys know how it goes.

There isn't a setting in the menus for enabling or disabling the eye system. However, there is a procedure for turning the eyes off. Here's a snippet from the manual regarding turning the eyes off:

To switch off the Break-Beam Sensor System, press and hold the /\ (up arrow) button for one second (SEE FIGURE 2.4). The eye on icon in the top left hand corner of the LCD screen will change to the eye off (looks like bottom half of a circle?) icon indicating that the Break-Beam sensor has been disabled.

If it's an Ego board in your gripframe, this will definitely prevent you from shooting your gun if they eyes are not turned off. Whether or not you've caused damage to the gun by increasing pressures, etc is a whole nother story. But hopefully you turn your eyes off and you're shooting ropes! This is something that the seller should've told you about either when you bought the gun or afterwards when you were having problems..

Is it just me or are all the images on the front page dead? I sold my angel ir3 last season but am contempleting getting back into the sport. I may build a custom egomag but pictures are worth a thousand words heh!

Hopefully someone on here can help me solve some issues with my egomag. Here's the story:

I bought an egomag on in the BST that wasn't fully tuned. I knew this beforehand so no biggie there. When I gassed it up and turned it on, I could fire one shot, but would have to wait for pressure to build up before the ram could fully actuate and fire again. Think billy ball (for those that haven't heard about it, a quick search on either pbn or mcarterbrown will fill you in ) I tried troubleshooting it myself. I turned up the LPR a bit and when that didn't help, I took apart the ram to see if there was anything I could fix. I took off the o ring on the plunger seat to let it slide better and superglued the plunger to the plunger seat to keep it from falling out (If these terms are incorrect, please advise). This didn't help either so I turned the LPR up further. This blew a hose, possibly damaged the solenoid, and prompted me to search the BST for a good used intelliframe.

I guess paintball withdrawal and winter idleness prompted me to look for a way to get the egomag up and running. I purchased a micro rock from palmers and a new mpa3. The plunger on the mpa3 came loose so it will have to be superglued before further testing. I swapped my old one in, but no luck. I'm still getting one usable shot and then having to wait several seconds before I can fire again. The x valve I'm using has a ult in it, if that has any bearing on the situation.

So, any solutions come to mind? A new or different solenoid might have a faster recharge rate. The solenoid currently in the gun is the SMC SY113A-SG-PM3. The best idea I can think of is to send the entire setup and extra parts to someone who knows what they're doing.

Is it just me or are all the images on the front page dead? I sold my angel ir3 last season but am contempleting getting back into the sport. I may build a custom egomag but pictures are worth a thousand words heh!

Aye, the picture links are dead, did anyone find the most suitable solenoid for the job? How well does the the frame work without the ULT installed?

Assuming size is not a problem, does anyone have a suggestion on what noid is going would be the absolute best? Would a stock etek or ego noid be better than a larger aftermarket noid? And if I did use a bigger noid could I get away with a lesser shimmed ult or even rt on/off?

I have a notion to stuff the noid into one of lukes asa mounted battery packs. I am liking the idea of having the asa next to the lpr, and making cleaner when you pull the grips off. Also, this is running from an etek board at the moment.