The fellow I talked to the other day at Fastenal about getting the 9/16" rod never called me back so I found a 1/2" rod and make it out of that . Of course once it was on the saw I needed to try the saw out.To be honest I was apprehensive the first time that 20" blade started to spin ! OK the dry run was over then headed over to the garden where I had some small branches that fell from the trees that are a pain to cut with the chain saw . Even though the blade should be sharpened it did quick work on most except for the dried 4" + ones . The biggest problem is the carb needs adjusting/cleaning wouldn't keep steady speed.

The fellow I talked to the other day at Fastenal about getting the 9/16" rod never called me back so I found a 1/2" rod and make it out of that . Of course once it was on the saw I needed to try the saw out.To be honest I was apprehensive the first time that 20" blade started to spin ! OK the dry run was over then headed over to the garden where I had some small branches that fell from the trees that are a pain to cut with the chain saw . Even though the blade should be sharpened it did quick work on most except for the dried 4" + ones . The biggest problem is the carb needs adjusting/cleaning wouldn't keep steady speed.

Glad to see you got it going! It looks like you even have the original pulley for it. Can you tell me what size pulley is running the saw?

Glad to see you got it going! It looks like you even have the original pulley for it. Can you tell me what size pulley is running the saw?

Figured it was just as easy to get both along with some pictures . Both pulleys are 3 1/2" OD The pulley on the jackshaft has a casting # 8004M, just a keyway and square headed setscrew to hold it on . The one on the arbor or mandrel has 8007M cast on it . I didn't have that one off but the shaft has a keyway ,a square headed setscrew ( strange it doesn't line up with the keyway ) also a grease fitting

Kenny never thought of that. That pulley i didnt remove yet its held on by a caslated nut that's where you can adjust the taper bearings in the mandrel . I noticed the cotter pin is gone now ,thought there was one so I'll take the nut off and get a better look

Kenny never thought of that. That pulley i didnt remove yet its held on by a caslated nut that's where you can adjust the taper bearings in the mandrel . I noticed the cotter pin is gone now ,thought there was one so I'll take the nut off and get a better look

Took the nut off, it didn't look like there was a cotter pin in for some time , the set screw just contacts the round smooth part of the shaft , and the grease fitting is drilled to grease the taper bearing . took a few pictures before putting it back together

I measured the 3 groove engine pulley the center groove that runs the saw is 3" OD . This pulley was mounted on the tractor the came with the saw . I removed it and installed it on the Super Power ( same model ) I also measured the 4 groove pulley thats on the DB 600 ,, 3 1/4" OD I'm not sure if that pulley would be used on this saw or not

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I think I made a mistake when I drill the hole in the clutch rod , the way I have the handle in the " OFF" the weight of it applies against the yoke . I had to straighten the slight bend in the rod that's about a foot from the attaching point , then put the bend back with the handle vertical and redrilled the hole in it's new position . Here's the way it looked before ,didn't get new pictures yet .