indeed the talus proper lacks problems in the middle. check out the talus crevice, the eastern flank, up around and below the bowling alley. yep landings generally are death eating. there is along the base of the talus on the eastern shelf a slew of area w/ boulder problems. problem w/ de problems is cleaning them. look for the big old huge overhang. check out the big ole house size boulder along the talus slope woodland buffer. landings are marginally better. now if you get up onto the 3 bears downclimb and goldline ledge keep a sharp eye for problems and the tunnel.

I'm here the stuff I did is there Jia, de Freerider and I love this place DO NOT SCREW THIS PLACE UP Climb Smart and safe ie pre inspect tred carefully & top rope( w/ dirtectionals away from loose stacks) The bouldering is best around the Man eating talus no landings at all !

there is no guide to the site. basic overlay. east side of talus has a 4th class route to the top of the cliff. for specific bouldering look for large boulders along the base and side of the talus. "jenga" is mid-point of cliff and is the prominate arete. bowling alley is the section of the cliff that is highest. believe its the scar of a old cliff slide. gp, hawks cliff talus can be unforgiving. thar be a few different sweet spots along her borders. photo of far east boulder. easily accessible from the hiking trail when the foliage isn't so thick. photo taken from near the eastern edge of the talus looking down into the talus slope woodland. there are other such boulders of the same size along the border. top of talus field crevice is a big old square boulder. significant size. blow a move your talus trash.

Paid the place a visit today. Didn't climb anything, but explored a bunch of the talus field and cliff directly in front of the road as seen here in the first picture. I went as far right as the Blue Gus Chimney and the ledge/dihedral to the right of itbut for the most part I kept to the left side because in Michael's website he states it has most of the more memorable and unique features. There were no signs of climbers except for what looked like some pin scars. However, I didn't see any of the right side of things so there may be more evidence there.

There seems to be very little bouldering if any on the left side. Sounds like from Jia there is more on the right side near four birds so I will have to check that out soon.

I got to the cliff by cutting between two houses at the end of Deerhaven Lane and scrambling up the talus field. Did not end well... Was greeted on my way out by two very unhappy homeowners, informing me a detective lives in one of the neighboring houses and that they call the police if there are any unusual cars or people around the road, including climbers. Just don't play around in the talus field above that road or go on it and you will be fine. They cannot see past the edge of the talus field at the top so if you are a the cliff you are fine.

Apart from that, this place looks fantastic! Looks like there would be tons of placements if led. The rock in the talus field is different from the actual cliff (sandstone vs something grey with crystals and stuff in it) which seems really weird. Some parts look very blocky, loose, and in need of some good trundling, but they also look totally worth it. I would definitely NOT want to belay directly under a climber!

Got bitten up by mosquitos when I reached the bottom of the cliff because I was a sweaty mess from the climb up, but once I cooled off they went away. I have done a lot in West Milford, and know from experience that it gets hot and very buggy in the summer but fall chills and lower temperatures seem to drive most insects somewhere else.

Blue Gus Chimney looks really unique and awesome! Way too wide to chimney up, but has a really awesome roof at the top and a ton of cracks and fun stuff. Apart from that, there's a ton of dihedrals, roofs, and other really cool features littered all over the rest of cliff. The possibilities seem endless..

Next time I come I plan on taking the four birds trail (from the Northeastern trail head) and rappelling down Blue Gus Chimney and climbing, or something on the right side it. Will be hopeful I don't run into any problems from there on..

As for the only AMGA access, I don't see anything else stopping one from climbing here apart from the people on Deerhaven Ln. Just don't make a big deal or call attention to yourself.

Apologies for the crummy iPhone fisheye pictures. I would usually never shoot on that, but today I only had my 70-300mm telephoto lens for my camera.

Map

Side of Blue Gus Chimney

Talus Field

Just to get an idea of the rock

GP rock

view from the top!

Blue Gus Chimney!

Top of Blue Gus Chimney

even more GP rock

I believe this is "Goldline Ledge", where Michael J Schneider kept a stash of climbing gear back in the day. There was a 45~ foot drop below me. I got to it by just following the cliff next to Blue Gus Chimney even though it significantly dropped of.

View from the top of the Talus field. Wow!

really big talus

Lots o' rock

even more rock

Very attractive corner of Blue Gus Chimney.

Pin scars? about 15~ feet above me

Four Birds trail head info station. Can be found about 100 feet up the East trail head.

Great pictures Ryan and thanks for the in depth review. Glad you didn't get in any trouble with the home owners. Hopefully we can get some work done with the AF (if the ball isn't already rolling) and provide access for a cool looking cliff in NJ!

check out the approach via october hill road. you will arrive on top of the main cliff on top of "bowling alley". requires a 2 pitch rapell descent. or head west along cliff top. look for the small cairn. climbing trail cuts in to the left. expect some heavy bushwaking to reach the cliff. i can send along a map. AF well the local political guy is expressing interest. that should be leverged. jia

check out the approach via october hill road. you will arrive on top of the main cliff on top of "bowling alley". requires a 2 pitch rapell descent. or head west along cliff top. look for the small cairn. climbing trail cuts in to the left. expect some heavy bushwaking to reach the cliff. i can send along a map. AF well the local political guy is expressing interest. that should be leverged. jia

@jia - John, I'm Michael. Andrew S's friend. Haven't spoke to him in a while but I was the one who contacted you guys last year when I saw the article in Climberism.

@Ryan L - awesome job scouting and providing the info on where NOT to go.

Like many places in Jersey where climbing is questionable, going in ninja style and keeping a low profile, far from the eyes and ears of the authortities who would shut us down, is the way to proceed.

@Norm - message me about the Access Fund. I can put you in the loop with Andrew S. who did most of the behind-the-scenes work with Morris County to get the climbing survery accomplished.

This climb could be called Center Stage, it looks out at the old ski area, Stress Test and the corner to the right , the Low Stress start are good intros to the climbing here. A second ascent independent of members of the FA is needed for a grade opinion.

Past the better looking big right facing corner,-caped by the roof with the hand cracks running through it - Members only, Is the LEFT FACING corner that is the STRESS TEST. The base is clear for a good belay. The start is the easy step up to the thin seam/crack in the low angle grayish, face. When the seam ends step left, and back right. . . .

.thirty five feet right of this is the right facing corner crack LOW STRESS, It sows up the short corner and can be easily led with good nut placements. Pretty much arriving at; The first fifty feet lead to a 'scruffy' (loose stuff on edges) ledge with bunk trees that I stepped around for my third point, the bugs have arrived, so I was already wearing Deet which seemed good as I pushed up left through this mank but a ledge, to the first crux. Several dance moves left and up found me on a hollow sounding shield or band of rock that led to a ledge with a large loose block on the left. The best pro was just behind the tip of the block. There is other gear possible and I went with that. The path is clear to the corner (darn bushes, sling 'em )and short 'flying buttress' that one reaches by heading right then stem the corner till the top, move right and up, say hello to the springy branch, & do not have any brave ideas, Sling that branch !! move right off the cleaned on lead, so dirty, bucket to the top.

I am coming home to NJ/NY this summer from living in Asia for a few years and I'll be coming with a full trad rack and an itch to climb anything close to me (live in Bergen County). I was setting my eyes mainly on the Gunks and possibly the DWG but I'm up to ninja this if anyone is game.

this looks like a nice little surprise! just moved back from Utah and would love to try this place out to scratch that climbing itch. thanks for all the beta all, and the lil guidebook.

How does the top of the cliff band look for setting up a TR? any good trees or will i be exposing myself to much? My climbing partner will be intermittently around and I would love to just hang and rope solo a few routes.

GP is not a place for easy TR set-ups. bring extra webbing/runners/ maintain no bolt moratorium. rap inspecting routes is prudent. watch for loose rocks and choose. best time to climb is fall. foliage in summer is thick.