I am a beginner at sewing but not really. I have patterns here by simplicity but they are confusing to me when I put them together. I prefer seaming the garment like kwik sew does. Are there books out there that teach a person to logically seam garments from sewing patterns? I seen a thread earlier on here about books and there are quite a bit and I am researching them now. I do understand putting together seams but I would prefer logically putting the seams together. Thanks in advance!! I have so many patterns here and I hate to see them go to waste and I can't force myself to do it the way the pattern explains lol :-)

I like the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. There is one available on Amazon right now for $2.00. It takes you through the basics and beyond. Books usually do not take you step by step through a pattern as each is different but a book like the Reader's Digest thoroughly explain construction techniques. As to patterns, if the Simplicity garment is similar to a Kwik Sew that you like, you can do it the same way. I have been sewing for 40 years and seldom follow directions. Many of them are confusing and Simplicity does not always do things the easiest way. Most garments go together in the same way so, if you can come up with a better way to do something and it works then do it. You are in control. You can run into problems however in more complicated items where one step depends on the next. I always read the directions first to see if there is anything that might trip me up if I do it my way.

Are you asking can you change the order of when to sew different parts of a garment? I do this all the time, and find it simplifies some projects while making others a bit more difficult. I do not use a serger and finish my seams with some "old fashioned " methods. So, I change the order to accomplish that.

If Kwik Sew works for you,just use their directions for basic construction.

Some of those old methods have been updated. Sleeve insertion is one that comes to mind. I prefer to have the side seam of the garment unsewn and then sew in the sleeve with the sleeve next to the feed dogs to ease in the fullness.

I also dislike bias binding tape and hem tape.

Reader's Digest has been a long time staple, but I like something more modern. Have you checked Teach Yourself to Sew at Threads Magazine?

yes, I want to approach the construction of the garment without using the instructions. The earlier post was exact on where she said to do it my own way. I am trying to figure out "my own way" of doing it lol.

I am on the site that was referred. So much to look through.... I am checking out a book from kwik sew and I think I might have found what I was looking for. The other item, the reader's digest, I will get from my local library to see if they approach seaming or garment construction the same way Kwik Sew does. I think I solved the problem. I will post back if I have any further issues. Thanks ladies for the advice and good info :-)

In general, you work from big seams toward any smaller units which cross over them. A skirt or pants would have any side seams done first, then whatever is done at the waist. The hem comes last. See how the waist crosses over the sides? That is what I mean by "crossing over them".

Any garment which hangs from your shoulders has the shoulder seams done first. Then the sides. Collar or neck treatment and armhole or sleeves can be done next. Your choice as to which you prefer. Finally the hem or bottom finishing.

All these will become clear to you if you baste or pin things together to check the fit before doing any seams at all. You'll see that the shoulders need to be done before you can make the body bigger or smaller (or shorter or longer).

I found the directions in sewing patterns to be my teacher. Not all are perfect; but you can learn something new every time.

Yes, go ahead and ignore the construction directions and do it the way you enjoy. This is your hobby! The instructions may help in doing an unusual detail such as a pocket. -- Edited on 5/24/13 3:29 PM --

I'm not so sure there is a beginners short cut for that. I kind of think there actually is not.

I think lots of people might not always follow the pattern directions in the exact construction order of putting the pieces together at all, but that is most times really just because they have done it by the directions so many times someplace else, on so many patterns before that, that then there comes a time, later on, that they don't need those directions anymore or not much at all instead. No matter what the pattern is later.

I think though doing it at first, as is listed in the patterns, is how they know how to do that, and is actually the way that comes about later. Just since in the construction order you got crossed seams and such, and that is most times why, they have stuff in there in some particular order.

But logically, some things do need to be sewed before some other ones often, just because of crossing seams and such. Keeping in mind the pattern company wrote those directions to what they really think is logical, but everyone minds works a bit different and you can vary it somewhat but not just totally. So ones persons logic and what works for them, might not be really the same as someone else's sometimes.

I think also most people whom just ignore all the instructions, or say they do, really do at least pull them out, glance though them quickly, and at least look at the pictures of the construction and understand them, then maybe just choose on purpose to do it some other way.

But, I think those are also the people, that if they pulled some garment off a rack in the stores, and you asked them imagine how the pieces looked flat and non sewn together, they could also draw that out for you on a piece of paper, and then if you asked them how they might construct it the same or different, they really would be able to do that, from their prior knowledge and experience instead, not by just osmosis at all though.

Threads had published a guide written by Connie Crawford not long ago that lists the sewing order used by the garment industry. I've printed it out and posted it by my machine to reference as I sew. It makes more sense to me than most of the sewing pattern directions that come in the envelopes.

I often ignore the directions but always make it a habit to totally read them through before starting. I think those who have sewn countless garments( over 50 years) have a pretty good idea of the logical sequence required.

One of the things I do which differs from the pattern is unit sewing. I sew all the details first, cuffs, collars, pockets, etc. Then I put the bigger units together with them. Then I sew those completed units to each other. Most of the time this works pretty well, but again, I recommend reading through the pattern envelope.

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