The Food: Homestyle Italian food with some modern twists, like chestnuts in a creamy porcini soup and a hearty stew studded with chunks of wild boar bacon. Shareable sides include grilled rapini, tomato-braised runner beans and creamy, slow-cooked polenta.

The Drinks: The 50-long wine list focuses on Italian, French and Spanish bottles, as well as some local options. Thematic tasting flights are organized by grape, region and season.

The Place: The thoroughly modern enoteca is devoid of gingham prints, dangling ham hocks or wine bottle candelabras. Instead, midcentury Scandinavian furniture and Gaudí-inspired textured tiles add life to the white-walled room, as does an intricate tree-like wall sculpture by local designers Brothers Dressler.