I will do a quick intro so those that don't want to read a separate thread get the gist.

$300 CB175, for my wife.

So a couple things I have questions about. I am looking at new rear shocks to get a rolling chassis to work with once all the painting is done. Can anyone recommend a rear shock length and weight load? I know the stock is 12" (305mm), so I was thinking of getting some after market 12.5" (320mm) with a load weight of 365lbs (165kg) per shock. Single rider (120lbs-170lbs), daily commuter use.

Also, if anyone has valves for this bike, let me know, I'm buying.

And finally, since I have the rear hoop already on the frame, I'm wondering if I should get/make a cafe seat that just goes over it, or do I make one that incorporates the hoop like this.

That would be fairly simple, but I'm thinking that because the CB frame is stamped, its not going to look near as good as a plain tubular frame.

Thanks for looking!

« Last Edit: Dec 19, 2013, 20:24:11 by SeekingZero »

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"The less horsepower a motorcycle has, the more it can teach you.” -Ben Bostrom

I finished painting the frame and other pieces. In a week I will start putting the bike together. I also cleaned up all the parts in a Zep bath, though I should have done it in stages since I'm not sure where most going anymore.

And I got around to the wheels. I'll start cleaning them up and prep for painting. Has anyone painted hubs with the spokes still on? I want to black the rims and hubs but leave the spokes, and I would prefer not to have to re-lace.

Does anyone have an idea of how to get this screw out? I have tried everything short of drilling.

Can anyone help me out with what shocks to buy?

« Last Edit: Mar 10, 2012, 19:06:35 by SeekingZero »

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"The less horsepower a motorcycle has, the more it can teach you.” -Ben Bostrom

take a largish sized phillips driver bit and hammer it into the machine screw to make an impression. The hit it with a impact driver. If you dont have an impact driver and you're too cheap to buy one, then put a screwdriver to it, grip said driver with some vice grips, lean on the driver with all your weight and turn with the vice grips. might work

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"Love is the feelin you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle."

"That's got CV's? Take a #2 phillips screwdriver, heat the tip with a torch until cherry red and plunge it into your eye. It will hurt less. Really."- Kopcicle

take a largish sized phillips driver bit and hammer it into the machine screw to make an impression. The hit it with a impact driver. If you dont have an impact driver and you're too cheap to buy one, then put a screwdriver to it, grip said driver with some vice grips, lean on the driver with all your weight and turn with the vice grips. might work

Tried, unfortunately I think the only option now is drilling. Heat didn't work and neither did the tapping and brute force method.

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"The less horsepower a motorcycle has, the more it can teach you.” -Ben Bostrom

just keep banging on it man. Apply some valve lapping past if you have some. Will providr more grip. Then instead of simply trying to turn it counter clockwise to remove it ya gotta go back and forth. tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen to help wiggle it loose. you're basically trying to break down the bonds between screw and thread.

if you have a tap set though then you could just drill it out and re-tap though.

Logged

"Love is the feelin you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle."

"That's got CV's? Take a #2 phillips screwdriver, heat the tip with a torch until cherry red and plunge it into your eye. It will hurt less. Really."- Kopcicle

I will go buy an impact wrench soon. I find myself needing one more often as of late.

So I started tearing apart the wheels. Of course I measured everything and took many pictures. The hubs are center-aligned with the wheels, no offset. And its nice that both rims at 18" and the exact same. Even so, I have the spokes separated out according the their position on the wheel, for each wheel.

I've found a powder coating shop that I am going to take the hubs and wheels to. Unfortunately, since I'm going the powder coating route I have to replace all bearings and seals ($90). Oh well, it should be done anyway if I'm going to do this right.

I also just ordered new valves for the head. $48 off Ebay - 20 days to ship. Now I just have to verify with the shop what seals/caps I need specifically then buy those.

I am now cleaning up each of the 72 individual spokes, and what a PITA! It really wears your fingers out. 36 done, 36 to go.

Logged

"The less horsepower a motorcycle has, the more it can teach you.” -Ben Bostrom

I will go buy an impact wrench soon. I find myself needing one more often as of late.

So I started tearing apart the wheels. Of course I measured everything and took many pictures. The hubs are center-aligned with the wheels, no offset. And its nice that both rims at 18" and the exact same. Even so, I have the spokes separated out according the their position on the wheel, for each wheel.

I've found a powder coating shop that I am going to take the hubs and wheels to. Unfortunately, since I'm going the powder coating route I have to replace all bearings and seals ($90). Oh well, it should be done anyway if I'm going to do this right.

I also just ordered new valves for the head. $48 off Ebay - 20 days to ship. Now I just have to verify with the shop what seals/caps I need specifically then buy those.

I am now cleaning up each of the 72 individual spokes, and what a PITA! It really wears your fingers out. 36 done, 36 to go.

how long are the spokes in mm, I bought a hub from ebay and the wheel supply folks want to know the spoke length so as I can rebuild the wheels.

Also the chewed screw for the speedo, I had the same. I tacked a bolt onto it with a welder and it came out a treat