Stopping in for one recently, I was told that Executive Chef Raita Noda’s latest twelve course Tasting Menu ($120/head) is almost up for renewal.

I managed to get in and try it late last year; and the moist signature Saikyo Miso Cod ($39) (made on Patagonian toothfish) was a joy to devour!

Due to the sheer number of cruise ships docking (and potentially blocking the normally spectacular view) this February Raita is running an 8-Course Tasting Menu for $65/head (normally $95).

This means Monday to Thursday you’ll get to assemble your own sushi in Maguro Tartare. The sea-salt cured tuna is a beautiful match for the 2010 Schloss Gobelsburg Urgestein Riesling, a wine that really renewed my love affair with Riesling.

Another tactile temptation, the Dobin-Mushi Taraba King Crab, offers civilised cups of dashi consommé plus the opportunity to delve into the teapot to pick clean a portion of king crab.

The rest of the dishes range from beautifully presented wonders like Ochazuke Modern, to Japanese comfort food like silky Agedashi Mapo Artisan Tofu.

Whilst not every dish is a winner, it’s impossible to deny (particularly at this price) that it’s a worthwhile Sydney adventure – just not for the fainthearted.