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Check how long it runs for after switching off as there may be a delay in the system that keeps the motor running until the turbo slows and cools down then shuts off. If it has it will be about 2-3 minutes. Another reason that diesels keep running is that there is oil getting into the air inlet side of the turbo from a failed seal and this acts as fuel going into the cylinder and as diesels do not need ignition spark they will keep running. have it checked out by a specialist who medals in turbo repair and sales.

Sometimes people get this low power and smoke problem in a turbodiesel car with an intercooler. Once it is not your injectors or turbo gone, you can solve it without buying new intercooler or EGR valve. You can actually clean them. It does take few hours of your time but cost you much less. All you need is few hours of time, a gallon (4-5liters) of diesel and same of petrol (better naphta but its hard to get in some places). First you need to take of the intercooler which might involve removing front bumper in some cars. Once you have it out, put it on the ground (do not damage the core) and fill it up with diesel. Cover the inlet and outlet (best with balloons) and leave it for few hours. Meantime you can take care of the EGR valve and inlet manifold. Using petrol and soft brush clean all visible parts but do not fill EGR with petrol too much as it must be complete dry before you put it back. Do same with the inlet manifold, just clean that oil/smoke build up. It is slagish but getting rid of it will add your engine extra kW/Bhp and some life to it. When you finish cleaning and drying the EGR and manifold your intercooler should have been a little "washed" by the diesel inside, shake it a little bit, the "balloons" should stop the diesel from spilling out, and leave it for 2-3 hours. After that time empty the diesel out of it and fill it with petrol (naphta) to wash out remainings of dirt and diesel, do it couple of times while shaking until the liquid is more cleaner, than dry the inner of the intercooler, make sure it is completely dry and as clean as possible as anything that will be wet with diesel may cause some serious problem. After drying and putting everything back, leave it for a while before starting the engine, this is to make sure that whatever remained undry will vapourize. Remember when you start the engine do not rev it up just leave it at idle for 10-20 minutes. This will add temperature that will dry up anything you've missed and not cause any damage as there will be not enough pressure. After this operation you will notice a change in the car's performance.

Hi Jay, What do you need to clean and why? If the intake is fouled with oil it would seem to me that the turbo has become defective and is leaking oil into the manifold. Let us know what the problem is and if you want to clean the outside or the inside of the ducting and manifold? there is a great big difference. Regards John

P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunctionsounds like you could have a breather pipe from the engine to the inlet manifold playing up from them codes ,now remember i have never seen a petrol version of this vehicle only ever a diesel here in spain so i have no idea where to you to look first sorry

Mazda say that if your Mazda 6 consumues less than a litre every 900 miles then it within tolerance.
However these cars have a complicated induction mechanism controld by lots of diffrent vacume pots that are inturn controlled by servos, when any one of these becomes faulty the pressure balance between the exhaust side of the turbo and the inlet side becomes inbalanced, resulting in oil being forced through the turbos bearings. Its that simple lol!
The first thing I would check would be the swirl control valve, In the inlet manifold, This gets fouled up by the exhaust gases getting recycled by the egr valve(exhaust gas recycler)
Sooty deposits mix with oil coming from your turbo and jam it closed restricting the amount of air into the engine, and reducing power as well as creating black smoke from your exhaust.
So my advice would be to get your egr valve proffetionally blanked off, and have your induction system checked over.
Hope this helps as I am sure this is a very common problem!

There is a oil drain return from the turbo charger to the sump. If the sump oil level covers the outlet into the sump, oil will build excess pressure tin the turbo causing the sealing rings to leak oil in to the intake manifold. This would cause smokey exhaust and loss of oil. Try this. Drain the sump completely, refill with the exact quantity of oil to Mazda spec. Dip the oil and if the new oil level is lower than the full mark on the dipstick, you have found the cause of the problem. Mark this new level with a scriber or file and fill only to this new level. Hope this is the solution.

You can fit a turbo to just about any car, the problems lie in changing the inlet and exhaust manifolds to house the turbo of choice and supplying the turbo with oil and water to cool it, also if the car has a ECU getting it chipped to provide the right amount of fuel at the right time.
To be honest if you want a turbo car it is best to buy one with a turbo already fitted as it will probably cost you less to buy for example a Mitsubishi Colt Turbo (around £1500) than to fit a Garrett Turbo (around £3000 with fitting and manifolds) to your 205. Not to mention that the gearbox, brakes and suspension would need to be upgraded aswell.

I hav'nt done one one that vehicle but there all bolted up pretty much the same.Disconnect the negative cable on your battery, take off the intake piping and airbox, airflow meter etc that comes off the turbo and anything alse on the turbo side that going to get in your way.There should be an oil line bolted to the top core which is oil in (most of these are metal so try not to bend them too much, it should be a bolt going through a round metal washer type pipe called a "banjo"be mindfull of the copper washers either side as they act like the gaskets, dont lose them) an oil drain underneath which will be a larger metal pippe inserted into a rubber one, just loosen the hose clamp on it and try break the seal by twsting the hose around a little(can be abit of a ***** sometimes) and leave it on as it'll come out when you lift the turbo out. Depending if its water cooled aswell it'l have two lines that look the same as the top oil one(same goes for the copper washers) each side,these should be metal lines also.Remove the bolts from the downpipe to the exhaust(you may have to do this from underneath)You should beable to see the 4 main bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold(most of which have locking washers underneath) remove the bottom ones first as its easier to hold the weight of the turbo while undoing the top ones. The turbo should now be free of everything bar the oil return underneath, since you loosend the hose clamp and freed the pipe up it should lift out with abit of angle changing(depending on room) leaving the oil return pipe sticking up ( as its eaiser to get it back on the new turbo like this). Install in reverse order and dont forget the copper washers as oil/coolant will pour out if not used. I hope this helps as im not the fastest typer and took me a while lol.P,S the hardest part of this work is the room you have to work with so watch you knuckles/hands. Good luck.