Speakeasy bars are springing up behind practically everyunmarked door in town, but what about hidden restaurants? Herewith,the best in-the-know dining destinations. Originallypublished in the January 2013 issue of British GQ

Find it in: the cellar beneath a Soho sex shopThe secret London outpost of New York see-and-be-seen La Esquina. Tell the shop assistant you have a reservation (no, seriously), and she'll usher you down to the vaults, where you'll find a ruthlessly hip crowd enjoying authentic Mexican fare in a room adorned with vintage posters. After dinner: loud music and even louder dancingTry... the octopus el Negro from the ceviche bar9 Old Compton Street, W1. 020-7758 4100, labodeganegra.com

Find it in: a derelict Brixton apartmentA French fine-dining hot spot in an ex-maisonette above a coffee shop. Push the buzzer to get invited up to the building's third floor. The restaurant is an intimate affair: 16 dining tables, seating just 45, with Eames chairs, all set off by antique lamps. Head chef Martyn Reynolds personally introduces each course before it's served, whether you like it or not.Try... the oxtail tortellini89b Acre Lane, SW2. 020-7733 8855, upstairslondon.com

Find it in: a clothes shop in ShoreditchHidden behind a velvet curtain at the back of Ante, a fashion boutique towards the top end of Brick Lane, the latest venture from the Disappearing Dining Club seats up to 30 people on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. There are no windows; plenty of candles and shared tables set the tone for a lively evening.Try... the wild mushroom tartiflette224 Brick Lane, E1. 07507 754318, disappearingdiningclub.co.uk/backin5minutes

A room firmly rooted in the Seventies, it's an explosion of peach-coloured tablecloths and wallpaper, secreted away behind the main building's drab cloakroom. But don't be fooled. Although the menu has not changed in 42 years (that's the appeal: veal Holstein, duck l'orange and beef Wellington done as no one else can), its clientele is very now.Try... the steak DianePrince Albert Road, NW8. 020-7722 8795

Find it in: a Chelsea apartment buildingRing the bell at the back of a portered block of Thirties-style flats, and the barman will open a peephole to decide whether to let you in. Serving traditional comfort food alongside shots in vintage tea cups, it is owned by Duncan Stirling and Charlie Gilkes - the powerhouse team behind Maggie's and Bunga Bunga - who reward regulars with their personal swipe-in key cards.Try... the macaroni cheese87 Sloane Avenue, SW3. 020-7581 3355, barts-london.com

Find it in: an abandoned Citron garage, obviouslyPhilip Dundas' latest brainchild: a restaurant that doesn't use recipes, in a place where he once had his car serviced. Formerly a pop-up, Pipsdish does not mask its origins (think concrete flooring, exposed brick and a corrugated roof). But the dishes - such as pork in cinnamon and milk with lemon crackling and rainbow chard - are far from basic.Try... whatever's on (the menu changes daily)133b Upper Street, N1. 07503 293438, pipsdish.co.uk