I would have to ask if you care about color temperature accuracy and repeatability shot after shot. I cannot stand the cheap crap that PCB makes - I'd rather shoot old Novatron or Normans instead. If you're going for cheap, then be cheap!

If you just need lights, then buy something in your budget with *a good modifier selection* and a standardized hookup. You'll be suprised how relatively cheap lights are by the time you get all the boxes, grids, snoots, reflectors, adapters, triggers, etc. attached to a kit.

So at 1/1 power on the einstein, I'd have a 1/1000th flash duration. So I cannot got any faster on my shutter speed than 1/1000th as the flash doesn't last long enough. Am I correct on this?

If so, I'd just add some Odins to my order.

I am not sure if the odins do this on einsteinsI've only tested it on elinchrom strobes can you post a pic of what you are trying to do? to get an idea of just how much flash power you are chasing?I also just ordered a stratto II reciever to see if it works becasue with the 3.5mm splitter the 1 reciever could theoretically fire 2 elinchrom strobes at 1/3rd of the cost of a single odin reciever

So at 1/1 power on the einstein, I'd have a 1/1000th flash duration. So I cannot got any faster on my shutter speed than 1/1000th as the flash doesn't last long enough. Am I correct on this?

If so, I'd just add some Odins to my order.

I am not sure if the odins do this on einsteinsI've only tested it on elinchrom strobes can you post a pic of what you are trying to do? to get an idea of just how much flash power you are chasing?I also just ordered a stratto II reciever to see if it works becasue with the 3.5mm splitter the 1 reciever could theoretically fire 2 elinchrom strobes at 1/3rd of the cost of a single odin reciever

640 w/s is good for me. The novatron I had could fight the sun but they're too bulky, heavy, and color inconsistent that after using the tiny einstein strobe I borrowed, I was very impressed.

I would just shoot thru NDs but if HSS is an option, I'd like to use it also.

the einstein's are engineered to maintain color consistency in their normal mode throughout the power range. switching to the high speed mode and PCB says you will lose color consistency as you vary power.

gotta say TY to this thread! brought a new bit of information to me and now i have a project to look into to see if i can add capability to my bag of tricks. hope this works with the einsteins or i may feel the urge to add a couple more heads to the kit!

The odins allow strobe HSS because it pops the flash before the first curtain starts and the flash duration has to be slow enough for to last the whole exposure.

So based on this, the Slowest the Einsteins can go is 1/1000th according to PCB @ 1/1 power.

Thus, I can't shoot at anything slower than 1/1000th, because the flash is too fast and I'll get bars, but should be able to shoot above 1/1000th shutter speed because then the flash duration is slow enough to be recorded by both curtains.

doesn't look promising though it seems like their is some capability gained using the FlexTT5 and Einstein combo. i dont see why the Odin's would be better/different than this set up. still curious as to what hi speed sync could be gained on an PCB strobe/Canon combo though as no one on the forum stated any achieved settings.

sounds like you are needing lots of power at fast flash duration with HSS.with budget in mind this is a tough one.

usually one of the fixes has been add a second head or bi-tube to the output channel and this will decrease duration by half. powering down increases flash duration 4 fold... but depends on quality of pack.using many units at low power to make power requirement keeps duration fast but is costly.

if you are also needing HSS thats another can of worms... speedlights cant do it... thengotta go elenchrom or profotoprofoto air systems syc up to 1/1500 with Air system strobes.

in the past hass and most leaf shutter 4X5 & 8X10 lenses sync up to 1/500 and 1/1000there we had tons of power issues needing to light @ f22 to f45 !! yes depth of field was critical when shooting a subject with a standard 150 or 240mm lens and close up subjects needing +2 stops more light with bellows factor incurred. now shooting 35DSLR is duck soup.-- high iso now will allow you to operate your studio lights at a lower power to get your quick flash durations... ive tried TT5s and they do not operate consistently above 1/250... got rid of them.

good luck having dependable consistent lighting is a must and time saver...it allows us to concentrate on the creative rather than the system misfiring and loosing time and potential beautifully captured images