Description

Mount Morrison is probably the most infamous mountain of the Mammoth Lakes area of the Sierra. Easily visible from the 395, its spectacular north face has been described as "holding a fatal attraction for climbers" as the rock is quite loose.

Depending on the area on the peak being climbed, the rock varies wildly. Some areas are no better than vertical scree fields and others are surprisingly solid. Protection in this variable rock can be very difficult to come by and often suspect. Caution should be exercised on all routes.

Getting There

Mount Morrison is easily accessible via the Convict Lake trailhead.

To access the north face: from the parking lot on the eastern shore of the lake, take the trail towards the south end of the lake. Near the end of the trail right by the south end of the lake, leave the trail and start traversing up the hill towards Mount Morrison. There is no easy way about this, it is a bushwacking scree slog for around 1200'. Once in the hanging valley below the north face of Morrison, there is a use trail along the north side of the valley. This approach is the better option if climbing anything on Torre De Mierda or routes right (west) of the North Buttress in winter. In summer, this is the preferred approach for all routes on the north face.

To access the eastern slope (also the descent route): from the Convict Lake parking lot hike the moraine immediately above the lot and directly to the east. This will give access to a long valley. Various use trails can be followed to the eastern slope. This approach is also a good alternative to the north face approach. Though not nearly as direct, it spreads the climbing out over a much longer distance and does not feel quite as much of a grunt. If you have a high clearance four-wheel drive car, you can drive to the top of the moraine. Access to the dirt roads can be gained off of Mount Morrison Road just east of the Convict Lake turn off of the 395.

The Northwest Couloir goes by many names among climbers: the Mendenhall Couloir, the Y Couloir, and most famously the Death Couloir. Under the first ascent conditions there was supposedly a snow apron allowing easier access to the couloir proper. When John Mendenhall climbed this in 1931, he called it third class. Since then, the route is considered "in" when the couloir is connected to the snow apron via a WI3-4 waterfall.The first pitch is this waterfall and is the crux of the route. Once esta...[more]Browse More Classics in CA