sabato 13 marzo 2010

DEUS IRAE!!!

YO! How is it going my fans??!!.......!!Well today was a great day for me!... Firstly because I climbed this one very sick route I really wanted to do since I first saw it a few years ago! Then because I finally start to feel I'm getting in a decent shape after one month of training, weight lifting(can you imagine me doing that?!?) and plastic pulling...Back to the route I climbed today its name is Deus Irae... located in Claro, a great granite crag in the Ticino Valley,Switzerland!It's very hard and painful and consists in about 20 intense moves with small edges, perfect pinches, sidepulls and gastons all the way up to this 30° steep wall!soo sick! Some locals told me they bolted it about 15years ago as a joke until Fred Nicole came to try it but he abandoned the project after a bit. A few years later Dave Graham climbed it with the quickness for the first ascent! He said 8c+ and after a few repetitions the grade was settled between 8c and c+.Unluckily(or luckily?!) a key hold between the second and the third bolt broke off about a month ago creating a new crux just past the start! It still goes but it's definitely harder if you think the old crux(the top sequence) of the route is now the redpoint crux!...Well totally Deus Irae took me about 4days of actual work, lots of skin and blood... but it was worth it! I'm nearly 100% sure this was the first ascent after the break and I'm so glad this little piece of perfect rock is still climbable... even if Adam Ondra would climb it also if the broken holds were 10!...Concluding this history I think the grade now is 8c+... a very solid one!Pictures are coming soon...