Royal China Club

You know the old clich? about how you can tell if a Chinese restaurant is any good by how many Jews are eating in there? No? Well, you should. It’s much more useful than checking if it’s full of Chinese because, to be honest, the Chinese are not always so fussy as is sometimes supposed. And also because one out of every five inhabitants of this planet is Chinese, so it’s a statistical banker that 20 per cent of the clientele of any restaurant, of any kind, will be of that persuasion, regardless of its quality.

Furthermore, as I’ve observed before, most Chinese restaurants are in China, where a place being full…