Guys, I have just registered today and need some help with my AA S410 Classic pre 2004 model.I have not shot it for a while due to work commitments and apparently I must have a sticking valve somewhere as it will not charge from a gas bottle. I was informed at the gun club where I went today that this sometimes happens if the air reservoir has been completely emptied and the gun not used for a while. (Last shot a year ago)

I am thinking it could do with a service and although I have stripped down Spring guns, I am a little nervous re PCPs as I suspect they are a little more complex.Any suggestions or does any member in or near Bedford who is competent in servicing S410s can give me a hand which I would be only too willing to pay him or her for their trouble.

As a side issue, I also have to get my air tank checked so if anyone knows how much that costs these days I would be grateful to know. I think I might have to get the bottle valve changed as well as I was told it is an old fitting.

As a side issue, I also have to get my air tank checked so if anyone knows how much that costs these days I would be grateful to know. I think I might have to get the bottle valve changed as well as I was told it is an old fitting.

Regards, Phil

Get which air tank checked? The Scuba tank or the gun reservoir?

Scuba tank will be about £40 for hydro test and refill at a dive shop. Dont think many folk send the gun reservoir back to AA but a new one is about £80 so should be a lot less to have them check it.There's only two types of scuba valve. Diving valve without a gauge which means the tank needs testing at 2 years. Or there is the land valve with gauge which can be left for 5 years before hydro testing because you cant dive with it. They both have standard female DIN thread. The AA adapter is another thing.

As a previous reply it needs to be cocked (takes the hammer spring tension off the exhaust valve) and then given a good 'blast' of air from a bottle. This should reseat it. If it's never been apart before then I would change the exhaust valve as a new one should give a much flatter power curve with more usable shots available before a shift in point of aim is noticed. As it's an older model it should have no anti-tamper measures in place and work is actually pretty straightforward to carry out. Google is your friend here as there are videos that will show you this. Make sure cylinder is empty though and look up 'hammer rail polish' as this is a good thing to do while the rifle is apart.

As per cylinder test I think my last one was £30 at a local(ish) dive centre. If the valve is the one you have been using on the rifle then why change it. Lots of people still use older fittings.

Thanks for all your help with this query, much appreciated.Got the cylinder to fill only to find the brass connector on the rifle is leaking from where the ball valve is.I spoke to Julian who advised I give it a couple of light taps to see if that would re-seat but unfortuately didn't work, Heh Ho.

The cylinder test cost £37.50 so back in business apart from ordering a new brass end connector from Julian.Can't complain much I guess as I have not had to fork out too much on both my TX200HC or my S410.

One other question, just been looking at some scopes to replace my 3 - 10 X 44 Hawke Varmit Mil Dot.One that caught my eye for price and spec was the Nikko Sterling Target Master 30mm 4 -16 X 44 hlf Mildot or LRX Reticle IR Scope. The LRX appeals as the aim points also allow for windage.Anyones thoughts on this scope would be appreciated.