Missoni

Missoni's Spring collection was as "out there" as the label gets. Angela Missoni reined it in and then some for pre-fall—there were no hemlines stitched with phrases like "shaking all over," no Flying Nun hats. But the new lineup hardly lacks for exuberance, and that goes not just for the color palette, which is heavy on blues, reds, and neutrals, but also for the fearless way patterns were mixed and matched. Knit turtlenecks formed the foundation of looks; from there the designer might add a mod, sleeveless shift with a Lurex-shot paneled hem, or a V-neck flame-stitch sweater and a macro Prince of Wales check peacoat and matching miniskirt. Angela's oldest daughter Margherita has been heading up the accessories lately, and they added a modern edge to the vaguely sixties-ish silhouettes. Metal chain necklaces woven with colorful thread keyed into the tribal trend we've been seeing on-and-off for several seasons. No doubt they'll appeal to fans of the brand, but they could also attract a whole new kind of customer—one who doesn't know a flame stitch from a zigzag.