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When you think pizza, pasta, and tomato sauce, you automatically say, "That's Italian!" More correctly, it's the cooking of Naples, an earthy cuisine of humble origins that was exported around the world via waves of Italian emigrants. Coppola's, an Upper West Side standby since 1986 that attracts a mature crowd, would certainly make a Napoletano proud. Its softly lit, cozy dining room soothes with exposed bricks, wood paneling, colorful street scene paintings and gilded-framed mirrors. Appetizers include baked clams that are suffused with parmesan cheese and oregano. A gas-fired brick oven pumps out a steady stream of pizzas with superbly crispy crusts, vibrant crushed plum tomatoes, and first-rate mozzarella. More than a dozen toppings in various configurations include roasted eggplant, pepperoni, black olives, artichoke hearts, and prosciutto. Coppola's numerous fresh pasta dishes, like linguine pescatore, often emphasize seafood, and are similarly satisfying. A standout is the cheese tortellini, which revel in a creamy vodka sauce that's fortified with moist chunks of chicken, mushrooms, and peas. Heartier fare includes chicken breast in white wine and garlic, and veal parmigiana with a rich tomato sauce and gooey mozzarella cheese. Who said great Italian food had to be trendy? — Michael Anstendig