"It has a lovely texture, and I add a little balsamic, " she said. "It fills all the needs of the usual jam recipes, but it also makes for a stunning cheese plate."

Makes about 4 cups

2 pounds figs, stemmed and quartered

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup bottled lemon juice

Bring the figs and water to a boil in a large nonreactive pot. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes to soften the fruit. Use a potato masher to crush figs.

Add sugar, vinegar and lemon juice, and return to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until thick and jammy but not dry, about 20 minutes.

Test for gel. (Chill a plate in the freezer; when you think jelly is ready, drip a few drops onto the cold plate and let cool. Push the smudge with a finger. If the jelly wrinkles when you push it, it's ready. If it parts with no wrinkles, cook a few minutes longer and try again.) Remove from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes, stirring to release air bubbles.

To preserve

Refrigerate: Ladle into bowls or jars. Cool, cover and refrigerate for up to three weeks.

Can: Use the boiling-water method. Ladle into clean, hot, 4-ounce or half-pint canning jars, leaving a quarter-inch of headspace. Release trapped air with a chopstick. Wipe the rims clean with a moistened paper towel; center lids on the jars and screw on jar bands.

Process 10 minutes in a boiling water bath. (Before starting recipe, start bringing water to a boil in a pot large enough so water covers jars by 2 inches; put a canning rack or a layer of jar rings on the bottom so water can circulate. Use canning tongs to lower and lift jars straight up and straight down. Start timing only after full boil is reached.)

Turn off heat, remove canner lid, and let jars rest in the water for 5 minutes. Remove jars and set aside for 24 hours. Check seals (press firmly on lid; lid should not flex), then store in a cool, dark place for up to a year.