Recaredo: world-class Cava?

Great discovery today, made at Les Caves de Pyrene’s sparkling tasting. Recaredo. World-class Cava, something that many wine nuts didn’t think was possible.

The secret to Recaredo’s wines? Biodynamic viticulture and long ageing on lees, on the cork. During this lees ageing they carry out Poignetage, a shaking of the bottle to spread out the lees. Riddling and disgorgement is by hand. All the wines are zero dosage.

In an interesting move, they are carrying out a research project to isolate and culture yeasts from their own property to use in the winemaking process. One of the problems for natural winemakers has been that sparkling wine production involves cultured yeasts, so it makes sense to try to isolate the yeasts of the terroir to use for making the wine.

Cava Recaredo Reserva Particular de Recaredo 2002
Nine years on the lees. Fine, pure and toasty with some pear notes, and also lots of freshness, despite the age. The palate is taut and linear with some nice freshness and good acidity, as well as subtle pithy notes. Real finesse here. 93/100

The pinnacle of production at Recaredo is Turó d’en Mota, a single-vineyard Cava from a 0.97 ha plot, which yields just 2700 bottles. It’s 100% Xarel.lo, and it’s the best Cava I have tried.

RecaredoTuró d’en Mota 2002
Very fine, expressive fruity nose with some subtle toasty depth. Refined and beguiling. The palate is crisp and taut with mineral and toast. Very fine and structured. Concentrated with a dense, focused core. Serious stuff. 94/100

We will just have to wait until the end of the year to find out how good it really is. I shall be sourcing some Howard-Baker cherry brandy for sampling in the interlude, and dig out some classy cocktail umbrellas to show you how it’s done.