Vuelta España Stages 15-16: Sidra, Cabrales and Roast Chicken

With Spain being slightly smaller in size than Texas, and with a population roughly equivalent to that of the west coast of the United States of America, it’s rather impressive that they have the potential to be the largest wine producing country in the world, yet large tracks of land remain untouched by vines. Both Asturias and Cantabria fall into this category; however, despite their grape-less status, the landscape could easily be the setting for any Fairy Tale with its lush rolling hills, rustic pueblos and phenomenal food.

Today’s post is a quickie, as we describe the few, but treasured, elements that have made us fall in love with these regions – and surprisingly, it’s not the seafood. Despite being located along the Bay of Biscay, notorious for its unpredictable storms and stunning coastline, seafood was not the string that pulled at our heartstrings. No, surprisingly, it was the chicken.

Butter roasted chicken, and other hearty dishes – such as the cocido montañés, made with beans and collard greens – is what makes this region completely unique and enticing. On wickedly blustering Asturian nights, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as a warm, juicy piece of chicken to warm your insides and heal the soul. Yum!

Then, there’s Cabrales, considered one of the most intense and pungent cheeses of Spain. Blue, spicy and delicious, a piece of Cabrales removes subtle from the vocabulary of any foodie. It’s made exclusively from herds raised in a small area in Asturias, in the mountains of the Picos de Europa, and when combined with local chorizo, it’s heavenly.

And what do you pair with a cheese that lights your senses aflame? Simple, you find a refreshing glass of Sidra! Sidra is a style of hard cider made from over a dozen approved apples such as Coloradona, Durona de Tresali and Raxao – to name a few. There are two styles of Sidra to choose from: a sweeter, lighter style that often holds a bit of residual gas or the traditional dry, still cider. And when we say dry, we do not mean crisp. Instead, it shows a more elegant and airy character, much like an apple breeze.

Trapped in liquid air, Sidra contains a vibrant world of diverse apples, but to release its flavorful core, one must follow a few simple steps. When served, you will be provided with a large, straight sided glass, that is approximately 10 times larger than the amount you will receive. Put another way, you’ll be drinking from a small glass bucket, as it were. From a height that is only determined by the length of the server’s arm, Sidra is poured high above their head, in a finger length stream, into a glass situated well below their waist. In this way, it’s aerated, allowing the trapped flavors to come alive. Now, here comes the fun part. As the quantity of the Sidra poured is minimal, the person who receives it, quickly downs the contents, refills it and passes it to the next willing victim. Consequently, the sequestered Asturian flavors come alive, refreshing you with a gorgeous flavor that is absolutely pure heaven.

But the best is yet to come! In order to bring forth the full symphony of flavors, the Asturians have created a few delicious combinations that should always be adhered to: Chorizos are boiled in Sidra; Cabrales is mixed with Sidra and spread on a toasted baguette; and chicken, already soaked in butter, is further lubricated with, you guessed it, Sidra. It’s pure ecstasy! And if you visit Asturias or Cantabria, enjoying these gastronomic delicacies among a dramatic mountain landscape and a stunning coastal view, you’ll appreciate that wine cannot be made here. Instead, you’ll find exotic flavors unique to this area that can only enhance your curiosity, expand your palate, and hopefully, make you appreciate the unique terroir of the region.

Now let’s check in with our Iberian sports correspondent, Bill Bennett; however, please note that this post was supposed to go up a few days ago, but do to technical difficulties we’re putting it up today.

Previewing Stages 15 & 16 of La Vuelta a Espana

The race for the Jersey Rojo continues to intrigue, with just under 4 minutes separating the top ten riders in contention. Vicenzo Nibali of Liquigas took the overall lead by 4 seconds over Joaquim Rodriguez of Team Katusha by finishing 20 seconds behind Rodrigeuz on the steep climb up Peña Cabarga. Sadly, Igor Anton, who started Stage 14 in the Jersey Rojo, had to abandon the race after crashing badly on a steep descent and breaking his elbow less than 10k from the finish.

The next two stages both feature summit finishes, with Stage 16 containing four climbs totaling over 5000 vertical meters. At this point in the race, Rodriguez must be considered the favorite. He’s showing that his 8th place finish in the Tour de France was no fluke and his Team Katusha squad appears to be stronger than Nibali’s Liquigas squad, as they are ahead by over 26 minutes in the team competition. Frank Schleck continues as a dark horse, 2:12 back.

Just one day after Peña Cabarga comes Lagos de Covadonga, the second of three consecutive mountaintop finishes.

This stage winds along the beautiful northern coast for 155 km of relatively flat road before turning inland to a summit finish with a massive climb up the 13 km, Categoría Especial, Lagos de Covadonga at 1110 meters above sea level.

The breakaways should come fast and furious early on this stage. The top contenders will be marking each other throughout the race. The attacks will come on the final climb. GC contenders like Schleck, Tom Danielson and Carlos Sastre will be desperate to make up time on their rivals and must decide whether to go today or wait for Monday’s Queen stage and it’s three monster climbs.

Stage 16 is the so-called “Queen” stage, representing the most difficult day of racing in this year’s Vuelta. Four climbs, three of which are rated Cat 1, should put some serious hurt on riders who will have already endured over two weeks of racing, with summit finishes on the previous two mountain stages. The three cat 1’s are San Lorenzo, La Cobertoria and Cotobello, which is making its inaugural appearance in this year’s Vuelta. Cotobello is 10.1 kilometers long, with an average gradient of 8.4%.
Whoever is in the Red Jersey at the end of three brutal days of climbing should be in a great position to carry on to Madrid and victory. It ought to be an epic battle of wills, determination and strategy.

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This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.

Penedes Wine Tour

About Gabriella Opaz

Born and bred in Chicago, Gabriella is the co-founder and Editor-and-Chief of Catavino. As an award-winning speaker and writer, she uses stories to create a human connection between worlds that would otherwise never converge. Her recently published book, "The Undiscovered Food Stories of Northern Portugal" was inspired by the alluring grandmother stories inside Porto's centenarian open-air market, Mercado Bolhão.

Facebook Reviews

Recently back from a Fall Harvest Wine & Food Tour in northern Portugal. Ryan and his team of angels of Catavino created an absolute exceptional itinerary for our group of 10 from Minnesota. From our first winery visit to grape stomping to our splendid view from our hotel in the Douro Valley, the Catavino team left no details behind. We were treated like esteemed guests everywhere we went and even treated like family is more like it! I'm going through withdrawal and plan to go back with the whole family in the near future. One of our guests summed it up like this during one of our lunches, "Patti, I feel like I've died and gone to heaven. Just when I think I had the best day ever, the next day is even better!"
I highly recommend anyone, whether it's the two of you or a group, to look no further than Ryan and Catavino who will customize and personalize an itinerary that will surprise and delight you beyond your wildest dreams. Amen

This was our second trip to Portugal. Catavino tweaked the itinerary to complement what we had done before. We would go back again!
The personal treatment we received from winery owners, restaurant owners, shop keepers was like no other trip we have ever taken.
5 stars- Catavino knows Portugal's wine country like no other!

A week like no other. Catavino designed an amazing tour for our private group. Ryan Opaz's personal relationship with so many in the wine/food industry allows for intimate experiences everywhere we went, unlike anything we have experienced before. Lisbon, the Duoro, Porto...all were fascinating. Catavino can design trips of any length and scope to suit your criteria. Obrigada!

Catavino is Ryan Opaz. But Ryan Opaz is not all of Catavino. There is a team behind the scenes. He is a Renaissance man with a great knowledge of food, wine and culture.
We enjoyed three days with Ryan as he guided us through the Douro Valley and the ancient town of Porto. Although Ryan has a huge database of facts in his brain, he is also a treasure house of stories. You will discover the “real” Douro and Porto, not the tourist version.
Ryan is always greeted like an old friend everywhere you go because he has a vast network of relationships. You will not get a stock tour: you will get an experience tailored to your interests and tastes.
Ryan will take you to places you cannot enter as a tourist on your own. The guides in the Quintas and Port Houses learn from Ryan, not the other way around.
American? Yes. Portuguese? Yes. Ryan lives in both cultures but is completely a “native” son of Portugal.
Recommended for the wine enthusiast and professional, and for small groups. You must get to know Catavino.

What an amazing trip with a fantastic group of people. It was an education about wine we couldn't have experienced anywhere else. Our guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgable and brought great enthusiasm to the experience.

Fantastic tour of the Portugal wine country organized and conducted by the Catavino team. Echoing the comments of the previous reviews below, my wife and I experienced one memorable experience topped each day by the next memorable experience. A week of friendship, learning and interacting all in an environment that was stimulating and stress free. Kudos to Catavino for a wonderful and supremely well organized trip.

Our Fall Harvest trip through the Douro valley led by Ryan Opaz and organized by the talented team at Catavino was truly a once in a lifetime experience (well maybe twice)! This was an ongoing visual and sensory experience from start to finish with several “pinch yourself” moments along the way. Like most learning experiences I feel like I’ve retained a fraction of what I learned about the wines and cuisine or Portugal. I guess that’s a reason to do it again

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

The Catavino team is world class. A tour with them is guaranteed to be something that you won't forget.
They show you a true picture of what goes on, busting myths about the wine and port industry to show you the real side of Douro. Their level of knowledge is incredible, and we had access to wine tasting, grape stomping and meet the faces behind the wine industry. I can't even begin to describe the amazing lunch at the farm, overlooking the most spectacular views that only the Douro provides - breath taking!!
It is guaranteed to be filled with passion and love, leaving you with a yearning to come back time and time again.
Can't recommend this enough.

My husband and I had a wonderful day on a private tour with Ryan throughout the Douro Valley. He is extremely knowledgeable and helped us learn to appreciate Port. Beyond the wonderful private tasting sessions, he also brought us to a delicious lunch at a local Portuguese restaurant. Throughout the entire day, he provided us with tips and recommendations for the remainder of our journey throughout Portugal. The whole day was the highlight of our trip! We would HIGHLY recommend it!

Ana arranged a trip for my client through Portugal. My client is a single woman traveling alone and she had the time of her life! I felt very good about having her in Catavino's hands. Thank you for introducing her to Portugal in such a wonderful manner.

I can only second the comments written here. Catavino is highly professional and will stop at nothing to give you an incredible, unforgettable time. All the biggest highlights from my recent trip to Portugal and Spain were made possible by Catavino. I know how much work goes into it- thank you so much Ryan and team. I'd trust you with my holidays any time.

We were part of the 2016 Harvest Tour and had the experience of a lifetime! The Douro Valley is breathtakingly beautiful and our guides were wonderful. Ryan and Gabriella must have called in all of their personal favors because we met and drank wine with many winemakers, a wine shop owner and tasted '72 port which Oscar Quevedo's grandfather had made. Doesn't get any more special than that! Of course, gourmet food at every meal as well. We'll be back!!

When there were hiccups in the itinerary; Catavino was nothing but gracious. They understood what our visit meant to us & offered us fantastic guides & activities. We ooh'ed & aah'ed, ate & drank almost too well (!) & we laughed for days. Deep thanks.

No enough words, even for a wordsmith like me, to say how wonderful it was spending time with Gabriella and Ryan. Our tour with Ryan as our guide to the Douro Valley was spectacular. Excellent wines, wonderful views, terrific people and a delightful lunch topped off with a lovely boat ride. Highly recommended!!

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Google Reviews

This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.