A few reloading questions

I've decided to start neck turning for some of my factory rifles. My Rem 700 22-250 VArmint as well as my 300 WSM. Reason being is I want to try to get some more accuracy out of them. I know neck turning for factory guns is sometimes a waste of time...But hey...Why not try. Plus it's good practice for when I have a custom varmint rig built.

Anyway

At what point in the reloading process do you neck turn... i.e before resizing after resizing? Alos..this is the tool I want to get

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And last but no least. IS the RCBS Casemaster worth a poop [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Or should I go with a neco or something.

Thank in advance

Joe

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Joe, lots of good questions there. I'll let the pro's answer the rest of them. But I have the Casemaster and I think it's OK. The Sinclair I believe may be more flexible.

Checking case/bullet runout with the Casemaster is good, but the Sinclair is a better tool overall..Good luck to you!
I also have a K&amp;M neck turner that I like. I don't turn necks on most of my factory rifles though. No need...sakofan..

I have the NECO gauge and I really like it. I use the Sinclair NT tool to clean up necks, not to "fit" necks for tight-necked chambers, and I think I am going to spring for the adjusment fixture. Gettting the right setting is a bit of a pain. Its not quite so bad for cleaning up necks as for fitting, but its still more time-consuming/hit-or-miss than I would like. Maybe I just suck at it!

Anyway, if I had it to do over, I would spring for one of Sinclair's package deals that includes the fixture and saves a few bucks.

Lablover,
I neck turn both my 243 and my 300WSM for about 2/3rds to 3/4s clean up in my factory rifles, in fact i benchrest prep all my cases. This gives me absolute confidance that i have loaded the best ammo that i possibly can.

Anyway back to your question, you need to size your necks first, because they then have to be expanded up to fit your neck turner mandrel, this is done with a seperate expander mandrel which is usually sized slightly smaller to allow for brass springback and a snug fit on the neck turning mandrel. I use K&amp;M products tools but equally good quality tools are available from Sinclair.

You are now ready to neck turn,take it easy and remove small amounts of material at time untill you get your desired clean up. With the K&amp;M you can power your case holder with an electric screwdriver.
After you have neck turned,seat a bullet, Your "S type" dies are ideal,because you now have to select a bushing of the correct size which is about .003" smaller then the diametre of your turned neck with a seated bullet. Once this is done you are ready to go.

Its a time consuming process, but i think all of these accuracy enhancing procedures are well worth it. Others will tell there's no point in a factory barrel, remember this if you miss, you cant blame your ammo [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Lablover, You might check out the RCBS neck turing system. Even though it is not in fashion, it does both inside &amp; outside at the same time. You control how much outside you want removed. You first size your cases &amp; then run them through the cutter. It works great and run out is perfect after using it. I do all my cases when new &amp; resized. I agree the Casemaster is OK (I have one), but if just doing run out , I like the Sinclair with its ball bearing surface. Probably one of the most important dies is your seating die. Are you using the Redding competition seating die? A good seating die is critical to zero run out. All the case prep in the world won't help an off center bullet. Good luck. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]