Full low-level brick, sugguestions needed

Hi all

So let me start by summing up my situation. Around a year ago I softmodded my wii (version 4.2E) to get NSMB working. The Wii had a hardmodded DriveKey option, but at the time the BCD data couldn't be appended to the disks/mod firmware.
I followed the guide to the point, and got everything working like a charm. Tried a couple of other backup games to verify that the softmod functioned correctly, thus still never getting NSMB working from a disk. I then tried using USBLoader, partitioned a flash drive and converted the image.
Now here's where it got a little strange. I plugged in the USB flash drive into the back USB ports of the Wii. When I turned on the Wii, nothing happend, just got the deadded black screen of boot

Here's what I've already tried (and dont worry, haven't used a year on getting the Wii back to life, just got the time to try something new this past week):
- SaveMiiFrii (verified that it works on my new wii before tried the old wii), and I dont get any region information in the bottom right corner.
- Checked the Wii could power on via the power button on a wiimote, and thus ruling out the option that the BT module would be defective.
- I think some other obvious things to, but can't remember any more. But all sugguestions are welcome, I might remember them any if they get reposted =)

So to cap up the Wii specs:
- European Wii with system update 4.2E
- Softmodded with the at time HackMii installer (think it was 0.7?)
- USBLoader
- NO PRELOADER installed, as it was not finished and stable for 4.2E when I installed the softmod
- BootMii installed as an IOS, my Boot1 version is Boot1c

So at the time I was left with a low-level bricked wii. I was lucky however that after installing bootmii I preformed a NAND backup to a SD-card. So from the NAND backup I am able to extract all keys etc.

Now here's what I've tried in these past two days. I bought an Infectus2 chip, have connected it directly to the NAND (so it's in-curcuit). Followed the remarks made by Bushing at hackmii.com, using both his amoxiflash and the xavbox programmers.
Yup I "wasted" 2x3 hours flashing the Wii NAND using two different tools, alas with the same result I regret to note

So the result is now still the same a 150$ door stop :P All help is welcome, and at this point no sugguestions are considered stupid.
I've probably forgot some details, so If you need anything more let me know

Looking forward to hearing from you guyz.

EDIT (posted as a comment below to):
Okay, so in the meantime here's what I've been up to.

Tried replacing both the BT and WiFi modules with working ones from my other Wii. Still nothing, but then I thought that I might add that when powering on the Wii there ISN'T any blue blinks from the dvd drive what so ever. Just the spinning from the DVD inserted into the drive, and the ability to eject the disk, but to my understanding the eject button is merely a switch/signal thats routed on to the DVD drive so that was kinda excepted

Right now I'm tried to reflash the NAND once again, you know what they say.. Third times the charm Hoping to fall into that category of lucky bastards

Some more technical questions for you pepz like Bushing out there.
The hollywood chip contains the boot0 startup code, which when executed requests the boot1 data which is encrypted with the per console unique keys. Ok so far so good. If the boot1 sequence contains any error or hasn't got the right encryption all further execution fails and the Wii just well do nothing right?
My question is first of all, whether the above is entirely correct, and for the second question let me give you an observation that I made while flashing the NAND.

To make sure that the hollywood chip doesn't try to read/write to the NAND while flashing the D0 to ground switch was added. When holding this down during startup all hollywood operations halt.
Here I noticed that the fan stops running. While when I dont hold down the switch it runs.
Could this mean that the boot0 sequence is executed properly? Just a though I got when fiddling around with debugging the brick.

Hi Krafter I looked at the guide you sugguested once earlier, but haven't tried out that specific programmer. So why not give that a shot to =)

Gonna try the wifi module swap to see if that works.

Bad_Ad84: Do you remove the NAND when flashing it, or is it in-curcuit? Have the tools at work to rework the NAND, so if all else fails that was gonna be my last resort, then inserting a socket for the NAND so that its would be earsier should it ever happen again =)

I remove them, I use a £1k programmer rather than infectus, which to be honest just isnt very good.

If wifi doesnt work and you are capable of fitting a tsop48 socket, then you can send me the chip to be reprogrammed.... however, the sockets do not fit in the wii case without cutting a hole in the base.

But if all else fails, maybe i'll send you a PM so we can discuss details, but seeing as I'm kind of a DIY tech guy I'm properly gotta fiddle around with it for a while before resorting to your option =) Just an FYI

Tried replacing both the BT and WiFi modules with working ones from my other Wii. Still nothing, but then I thought that I might add that when powering on the Wii there ISN'T any blue blinks from the dvd drive what so ever. Just the spinning from the DVD inserted into the drive, and the ability to eject the disk, but to my understanding the eject button is merely a switch/signal thats routed on to the DVD drive so that was kinda excepted

Right now I'm tried to reflash the NAND once again, you know what they say.. Third times the charm Hoping to fall into that category of lucky bastards

Some more technical questions for you pepz like Bushing out there.
The hollywood chip contains the boot0 startup code, which when executed requests the boot1 data which is encrypted with the per console unique keys. Ok so far so good. If the boot1 sequence contains any error or hasn't got the right encryption all further execution fails and the Wii just well do nothing right?
My question is first of all, whether the above is entirely correct, and for the second question let me give you an observation that I made while flashing the NAND.

To make sure that the hollywood chip doesn't try to read/write to the NAND while flashing the D0 to ground switch was added. When holding this down during startup all hollywood operations halt.
Here I noticed that the fan stops running. While when I dont hold down the switch it runs.
Could this mean that the boot0 sequence is executed properly? Just a though I got when fiddling around with debugging the brick.

Your problem sounds more like you deleted IOS70 then anything else. Unless you shorted out somewhere I couldn't see this happening. You're right about the boot sequence but I think if you're positive you didn't delete IOS70 then somehow your USB drive/flash drive shorted something out. For example: If your system menu was intact which you are saying it was then there's no reason you wouldn't be able to get into recovery mode. Sounds like you're just not getting any output from your console at all which is likely a hardware issue in this case. Even if your problem was with BT module (corrected) you would still be able to access recovery mode. It's either something simple like your tv being on the wrong input, a bad video cable, etc or a serious issue like a fried motherboard. I wouldn't have waisted the time or money on the infectus unless I deleted my system menu IOS. Certainly not on the issue you explained. It can't just brick itself.

Edit: Did you try replacing the BT and wi-fi prior to flashing? If you did the flash first your problem could've started with a bad wi-fi module and now your problem can be a bad flash. Did you do everything in the order explained in the first post or is it all out of order?

You cant get into recovery mode with a fault wifi module. You can get into bootmii if its installed as boot2 and from there you can get into HBC etc.

Also, by running unapproved 3rd party code (i.e. homebrew) you are always running the risk of a brick, you just dont know what its doing behind the scenes... you cant just write it off as a hardware failure.

If your drive light isnt flashing etc, it sounds like you didnt reflash your nand correctly.... is there no light from the drive at all? or is it solid blue? Personally, im still going with it would work if reflashed properly.