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no spark is from cam/crank position sensors faulty, faulty ignition control module
but you say fire to injectors -- do you mean power to injectors
if you have power but the injectors are not squirting---low /no fuel pressure = faulty fuel pump / no power to pump , faulty pressure regulator , pump relay problem
At this point check for a broken timing belt/ chain

In general, backfiring indicates the cam, crank and ignition are out of time or out of phase. The timing marks on the crank and cam just line up the timing of the cam and crank. The alignment of the spark with them has to be phased at the right time too. Check the manual for how to set the distributor timing after an engine repair

cam timing mark is on the back side of the cam view able through a small hole in the metal timing cover the crank shaft mark is on the transmission bell housing there is a opening that a -0- will line up to have an buddy turn the crank by hand and have a good light

paint the gears with some white paint ,have a look and on this model you will the timing marks,they are 8mm holes on then cam and inj pump if i remember correctly ,they line up with a hole behind ,use a drill bit to lock in place

hi there if you remove the cam pully wich drives the diesel pump you will see a key way in the end of the cam turn the engine untill the key way is flat ( i use a streight edge in the keyway and turn until it is level with the top of the cylinder head ROCKER COVER REMOVED once this is aligned up there is a mark o the back of the diesel pump pully thiss aligns up with a groove between two castings on the side of the pump at the front of the engine once all these are aligned up you can put on the belt ( it may ot start right away this wil be due to needing to bleed up the fuel ONLY IF PUMP BEEN REMOVED and bleeding up the fuel can be a right pain. hope thos helps ben

below the cam gear on the side where your belt snapped is where the V notch that is an upside down cut away on the metal backing plate behind the gear nearest the cylinder head matches up with a cast block with a ball bearing in the middle in the 6 o clock position on the cylinder head. looking at it on the right side it is a cast almost machined straight edge up and down. On the left of the block it is something like C shaped. if you drew a circle and then on the right side cut one third of it off with a straight line, put a steel ball in the middle about 5 mm thick, that is the mark for the engine timing and you need nothing else, no TDC on the Crankshaft etc.

on the back of the fuel pump flywheel there is a key way type notch square looking cast into the wheel. it is about 2mm x 2mm in size. this gets lined up with the cast aluminium mounting for the injection pump.there is on the outer most point of the casting that the injection pump in mounted on a horizontal line cast into the very outer most point possible of the casting. This horizontal line matches up with the key way type notch on the fuel injection pump flywheel.

It still needs to be timed but you wont bend any valves breaking the injection pump.