I've been working on converting my W201 Mercedes engine to a V6 3.8lt ecotec from a VX commodore for the past year or so. Some people will hate it others will love it. It all comes down to preference. I love the styling and comfort of this era Mercedes, but unfortunately the engine was a bit tired even after a full rebuild, I was spending more money on repairs than the car was worth, so i made the decision to keep the car which i use as a daily drive and change the engine to something a bit younger, reliable and economical to maintain. Being in Australia, what is more common than the good old commodores, they are reasonably well built and a dime a dozen as they say.

Turned out to be a great conversion, feels and drives great, looks completely stock but a total sleeper!

I will try to post up as much info and pics as I can for anyone who is interested.

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It was definitely a tight fit. The firewall had to be modified slightly around the edges and the lower crossmember had to be modified to accommodate the height of the engine. I kept the original steering box which left very little to no room for the extractors. The guys at hume mufflers did a fantastic job with the custom extractors and exhaust, they somehow managed to weave it around the steering box and out the bottom. Also had to get the idler arms fabricated as they were touching the engine when the steering was turned.

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one thing about the 3.8 it may be rough as guts when revved but it sure as hell has low down torque and instant throttle response and is practically bullet proof when you've got a good one. Probably gets similar fuel economy to the old 4 cylinder too.

So the buick v6 is another, and looks to be a decent execution from the top down.
I'm guessing you're using the 700R4 auto, which is a good match for the car.
You may need to keep an eye out for a diff from a 2.6 though.... the larger crownwheel & pinion LSD centre offering and better ratios to err.. 'aid' certain enthusiastic driving activities. Might want to upgrade the front rotors and callipers to standard 4 piston w124 24v units as well, will make a huge difference to the stopping power.

Hi everyone, thanks for your messages. The engine was immaculate from the donor car with less than 100k on the clock. Im using the transmission that was on the engine which is the 4L60E. It would have been much easier to drop in a T700.

The car would definitely benefit with an upgrade to the rotors an brakes. Thats next on the list. Everything was done by professionals so i shouldn't have trouble getting it engineered i would imagine, just haven't got around to it yet

well with the huge displacement increase and the correspondingly large torque increase over the original engine, it shouldn't come as a surprise, especially knowing that the v6 is renowned for low-rpm torque outputs (hence the choice by GM to power their land barges)
I am surprised you used the 4L60E, but understand as it obviously came as a 'donor package', and then the ECU would have needed a fair bit of work to divorce the trans control signals.

700R4 would have been an easier mechanical fit, due to trans tunnel size, but you have it all going now..... so what is done, is done.

the 124 24v rotors & callipers are a massive improvement over standard brakes. you should be able to find them relatively easily. Forum sponsor can help if you run out of options.

AMG wrote:...the 124 24v rotors & callipers are a massive improvement over standard brakes. you should be able to find them relatively easily. Forum sponsor can help if you run out of options.

Especially given that it is obvious from the photos that it was only a 180E or 190E 1.8 which (like the 2 litre) had solid rotors. At least the 2.3 and 2.6 got vented front rotors. The 180E also missed out on ABS.

If you can't find brakes from a 24 valve 124, even those from a 12 valve 300E are an inexpensive and worthwhile upgrade. They are what were used on the 190E 2.3-16 and 2.5-16.

AMG wrote:...the 124 24v rotors & callipers are a massive improvement over standard brakes. you should be able to find them relatively easily. Forum sponsor can help if you run out of options.

Especially given that it is obvious from the photos that it was only a 180E or 190E 1.8 which (like the 2 litre) had solid rotors. At least the 2.3 and 2.6 got vented front rotors. The 180E also missed out on ABS.

If you can't find brakes from a 24 valve 124, even those from a 12 valve 300E are an inexpensive and worthwhile upgrade. They are what were used on the 190E 2.3-16 and 2.5-16.

Do they just bolt on directly or will I need to modify them in any way?

These Ecotec engines are great little 3.8ltr warriors and i had a lot to do with them when i had my 2001 VX Commodore some years ago.
I ended up adding a simple Raptor Supercharger to mine (from Tim in QLD who produces them) which is a bolt in kit for these engines and you can easily get them tuned now.
Mine i ended up going a bit overboard with custom pistons and mild ported heads and Commetic head gaskets and ARP head bolts - but all this is not necessary with low boost controlled for max 8psi
i got 306rwhp (228 rwkw/405nm) on a Dyno Dynamics dyno during initial tuning phase (see attached pics) but ended up swapping out the valve springs and improved on that later to 330rwhp if i recall.
They are great engines for accepting mild boost in standard format though to increase usable torque for street use and in that light chassis the W201 would really be quick but i suppose the Toyota engine options for more power would be the easier path.
Great conversion project you have achieved there and it sounds nice

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G'day omerhanx could you possibly have any photos or discription of the modification of the pitman arm and the idler arm need too be done to clear the Buick starter motor. The steering box is about 6mm away from the block of the engine without the heat shroud on the steering box.