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Have an Autohelm ST4000+ that works but has dim LCD display with burn mark.

Any idea where I might check for a used replacement display head? Or for someone to repair mine? Also, I might be able to locate a used display with a good LCD that could be swapped for mine. Any idea what this swap labor might cost and who or what kind of tech could do it? Can anyone comment on whether such a swap is feasible -- have no idea as to how the LCD is connected to control circuit board.

Thanks.

You can find broken instruments (people usually blow the FETs in there by shortcircuit and inadequate fusing) on ebay fairly regularly, with good LCD. The st4000+ and the st5000+ has the same display, so you can go for either.

It is very simple to replace the LCD, five minute job, and you only need a small Phillips head screwdriver. You can safely try it, even if you don't have much experience in it.

First remove the 8 screws on the back of the instrument. You may need to peel off the gasket to reach them. Then carefully pull apart the case. Grab the center cylindrical part on the back and the front of the case and pull. It may need some force. When it comes apart, be careful with the wire to the buzzer, as it is glued to the back. Pull off the connector.

Next, unscrew the three screws on the bottom part of the circuit board. Then lift the board. The LCD may be stuck to it, be careful not to drop. From here it is trivial, there are some parts, the frame of the LCD, the flexible striped connectors, the diffuser, just observe their place and order.

Put the replacement LCD in, and doing everything in reverse, assemble. It takes more to to write than to do it, and once you open the instrument, it becomes clear what to do.

01-22-2015 02:16 PM

lenkrauss

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Have an Autohelm ST4000+ that works but has dim LCD display with burn mark.

Any idea where I might check for a used replacement display head? Or for someone to repair mine? Also, I might be able to locate a used display with a good LCD that could be swapped for mine. Any idea what this swap labor might cost and who or what kind of tech could do it? Can anyone comment on whether such a swap is feasible -- have no idea as to how the LCD is connected to control circuit board.

Thanks.

02-18-2013 11:58 PM

TakeFive

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Quote:

Originally Posted by cas206

I wonder if they really mean the processor, or if that is just a general statement they make to avoid fixing it. My unit had the low battery problem. Here is what I was able to determine on mine. The processor has a "buzzer" output line which is logic level 5 volt pulses. This drives an inverter which acts as a buffer. That in turn drives a transistor that creates 12 volt pulses from the 5 volt pulses. The 12 volt pulses feed a charge pump/voltage doubler to provide 24 volt bias on one of the power MOSFETs. This MOSFET switches closed to provide 12 volts to power the H-bridge driving the motor and the output clutch circuit (whatever that is used for). In my device, the BAV99 (I think that's the nomenclature, going from memory) dual diode package was bad. The result was that only 12 volts was biasing the MOSFET so that it did not switch closed to power the H-bridge. I was able to replace it and get mine operational again. Before I did that though, I removed that MOSFET and jumpered the 12 volts from 12 volts external to 12 volts internal to check that everything else was operating normally.

Yeah, what he said!

02-18-2013 07:27 PM

cas206

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

I wonder if they really mean the processor, or if that is just a general statement they make to avoid fixing it. My unit had the low battery problem. Here is what I was able to determine on mine. The processor has a "buzzer" output line which is logic level 5 volt pulses. This drives an inverter which acts as a buffer. That in turn drives a transistor that creates 12 volt pulses from the 5 volt pulses. The 12 volt pulses feed a charge pump/voltage doubler to provide 24 volt bias on one of the power MOSFETs. This MOSFET switches closed to provide 12 volts to power the H-bridge driving the motor and the output clutch circuit (whatever that is used for). In my device, the BAV99 (I think that's the nomenclature, going from memory) dual diode package was bad. The result was that only 12 volts was biasing the MOSFET so that it did not switch closed to power the H-bridge. I was able to replace it and get mine operational again. Before I did that though, I removed that MOSFET and jumpered the 12 volts from 12 volts external to 12 volts internal to check that everything else was operating normally.

02-12-2013 01:14 PM

melvyn.trigg

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Hi all,

I have experienced the same problems with my ST4000+ Head unit, which is installed on my recently purchased Catalina 36 Mk II. The 'Low Battery warning would kick in after a short period, forcing you to switch back on to 'Standby'.

Fortunately I had a the original ST4000 unit, which I replaced. This cured the problem. The ST4000+ was returned to Raymarine UK, along with the drive unit for examination. Raymarine told me that the processor in the head unit was faulty and that as these units are now obsolete, they do not carry the parts to replace it, and if they could, it would cost around £400.00. They did offer me a discount on a new wheel pilot for around £1100.00.

So for now I shall be using the original ST4000 Head.

01-08-2013 03:25 AM

kwiggy

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Thanks for that info szigi. That all makes sense.

I did actually end up getting in touch with a Raymarine tech guy here in Australia, but he knew very little about it & his advice was for me to buy a new one. I sent a message to Raymarine on their website, but they never responded.

I'll pull it apart this week & have a look.

Thanks for all the advice

01-08-2013 03:03 AM

szigi

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

It's definitely not backlight problem, as the LCD should be visible in natural light, without backligth.
The ST4000+ is fairly easily taken apart. The LCD is held in place by a plastic bracket, secured by screws. Take it off, and carefully clean the contacts on the circuit board. If you are real careful, you can also clean the contacts on the LCD itself (they are invisible!) and the rubber conductor that is between the LCD and the board. Don't use WD40 or like, use alcohol!
This can help. However, if the LCD is uniformly dim, then probably there are other problems, as the above contact problems usually result in some of the segments6pixels being dim.
BTW, at the Raymarine Technical Forum Raymarine Technical Forum they seem to be very helpful and responsive, try that.

01-08-2013 12:42 AM

kwiggy

Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Agreed, I think it must be a problem with the LCD, so I will take it apart and have a look

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