A Genuine Maori Experience at Tolega Bay

It might have taken eight days but, at last, I have spent an entire day talking, eating and laughing with Maoris in a non-tourist environment. And that, for many people, is what real New Zealand is all about. This picture is of Melanie Glover with her distinctive lip and chin moko.

Cultural experiences are always challenging. It seems so easy to have fake cultural experiences - where the poor indigenes endlessly repeat their rituals day after day like factory workers - so that trying to dig below the surface becomes a real challenge.
A day with Anne McGuire, who runs Tipuna Tours (you can contact her directly through Gisborne Tourism, was a study in the subtle art. Anne is a sociologist who was born and brought up in Tolaga Bay which is about 53km north of Gisborne. She has a vast working knowledge of history - both Maori and European - and a deep understanding and passion for Maori culture. Rather than offering a guided tour or a lecture she simply talked and talked. We met at Tatapouri and while I drove to Tolaga Bay Anne explained aspects of Maori culture and daily life which I will not attempt to explain in a brief blog. Sufficient to say that suddenly a lot of what I had seen and experienced made sense in a deeper and more complex way. Our first stop was the wonderfully named Picked Walnut restaurant (I may well die from over-eating before this blog is over) where we dined on pickled walnuts (gorgeous - these were sweet and there was also a pickled walnut dip), kumera chips and seafood. When I asked the owner Tom Ngata - he was Anne's second cousin - Maori culture and regions work like that - whether we were eating Maori food he said that I was experiencing Maori hospitality and, given that I had already been kissed twice by members of staff, that seemed to be rather better than the meal. We did have some rewana which is a local bread and the pickled walnuts came from trees which were growing out the back.
One of the people kissing me was Melanie Glover (her picture is at the top of this entry) who, when she was 31, had a moko tattooed on her chin. I asked her about this very distinctive and very Maori form of facial decoration and she explained that she had thought about it for over eighteen months (in traditional Maori society the moko was tattooed on the face when a girl reached puberty) and that she had decided that it was a powerful expression of who she was and what she felt proud about. I asked if it was the same as the "I'm black and I'm proud" movement of African Americans in the 1960s. She said that was exactly what it represented. She was proud of her moko and she was proud of her origins. As you can see from the picture it covers her lips and forms meaningful patterns on her chin. She said the only bit that hurt (I was in full, curious journalist mode as you can see) was the corners of the mouth. Anne said she had watched as Melanie was having the moko (Anne is Melanie's aunt - everyone in Tolaga Bay seems to be related - 60% of the population are Maori) and eventually she had to leave because she was living through every moment of the pain. Melanie was handling the process with calmness and equanimity.
After lunch Anne told me the story of the Whale Rider. As we drove back to Gisborne she pointed out the ancient rocks which, from a certain angle, look like the whale. Then she took me to the Maori village of Whangara where Whale Rider, the film, was shot and where, even today, the props from the film still stand in a paddock. But it was not Whale Rider props we were going to see. The village has two marvellous marae - buildings where Maori traditionally meet - and the oldest dates to the nineteenth century.
The Marae at Whangara is a true rarity. Built in the late 19th century when missionaries still roamed Maori country it is fascinating exercise in cultural compromise with images of the ancient leaders of the Maori people at one end of the building and images of members of the British royal family at the other.
I don't pretend to even begin to understand Maori culture but this was a much better insight that going on a cultural bus trip or seeing some overworked Maori actors going through their paces.
Has anyone had a better experience? Is there anywhere where I can get to understand more about these remarkably warm and friendly people?

Posted
by Bruce ElderOctober 19, 2006 3:24 PM

LATEST COMMENTS

Hi Bruce
I am glad you had a fantastic time in Gisborne. It is a beautiful and special place. Why else would we build the beautiful new Emerald Hotel there? It was a pleasure having you stay with us, sample our food and try out our new facility. Next time you are in the sunny East Coast call in but make sure you stay for the Food and Wine Festival this time!!!
Grant (Emerald Hotel)I'll be writing about Grant and the Emerald in the next couple of days. It was a great place to stay - particularly for all rugby fans.

Posted by: Grant on October 23, 2006 5:08 PM

Kia Ora Bruce,
I'm another niece of Annie & Tom.
I live here in this paradise known as Tairawhiti.
You won't find anyone more friendlier than us.
If you're near this way again around New Years, you must come to RU Uawa! This will be at Tolaga (so you can go back to the Pickled Walnut again!). RU Uawa is a concert that is held over the 31st Dec & 1st Jan. A lot of people will be there - like Renee Geyer.
Arohanui,
Joan-EllaToo tempting. A perfect way to spend the New Year. Thanks for the tip, Joan-Ella. Bruce

Posted by: Joan-Ella Ngata on October 26, 2006 11:52 AM

Kia Ora Bruce
My apology for not responding earlier. Thank you for visiting our place in paradise. Was cool to have you here and share with us the gems we value but often take for granted. The brief experience you had with us is one we repeat daily, no matter who you are. It's called 'manaakitanga' an important yet integral and intrinsic part of what shapes the way we behave and treat our all visitors. I mihi/thanks to my niece Joan-Ella for her promo - yes she's right. RU Uawa is where it's happening right here in Uawa/Tolaga Bay this New Years Eve. Check out our website for details www.uawanui.co.nz - going to be huge. Visit us here at The Pickled Walnut-we will be feeding and taking care of the musicians. Kia ora and thanks again Bruce - visit us again
Kia ora mai
Tom
The Pickled Walnut Licensed Restautant/Cafe/Takeaways. Thanks Tom. I must say I still have very fond memories of that day. What an experience!