Materials

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

Pile carpet, wool on a cotton ground. “Isfahan carpet”

Iran, Isfahan (?); beginning of 17th century
H: 451; W: 280 cm

Shah Abbas moved the capital of Iran to Isfahan in 1598. Workshops with royal protection were established there and elsewhere in Iran to weave high-quality carpets designed by the court studios.

Arabesques, cloud bands, large, fleshy fantasy flowers, and leaves reflect the ones found on paintings, woven silks, and large tile decorations.
These carpets, which were used in the palaces of the elite and exported in large quantities to India and especially Europe, differ significantly from nomad rugs. Nomad rugs often feature ancient and long-forgotten motifs and symbolism that had been handed down from the Central Asian nomads of the steppes.