August 7, 2010

When I first watched the Proenza Schouler livestream of their Fall 2010 show I was skyping with Belle, and when the models all came out for the final walk, we both gave a disappointed, "That's it?" in unison.

But in the half a year since, it's become one of my favorites of the season, and I have to wonder if it's the really good ones that you don't get straight away. I loved what Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough did for Spring instantly, and it still tugs at my heartstrings. But Fall didn't have the same pull of neon colors and sequins and feathers that got you straight away. It was all in the details, which didn't translate too well over the show's video. Beaded collars, cropped turtlenecks cleverly layered over netting, sheer thigh highs that just met the hem of a pleated skirt, and a cobalt blue popping up every now and then in the form of a fur cuff or shoe heel all demand more attention than a livestream.

I mean, my God, those shoes. They are so cartoony and wonderful and you can probably keep things like gum and 7" records in the platforms.

I didn't think the dresses at the end quite lived up to the rest of the collection. The idea of concluding by taking the angst somewhere a bit sweeter was nice, but the draping felt off, and not in the way the shoes were so clunky they were awesome. The progression did make me excited for the direction Proenza is going in, though.Other than that, it was angsty in all the right places (Tiny pockets! Letterman jacket elements! Babydoll-esque cuts!) and perfectly luxurious in others. For some reason, Jack and Lazaro are really, really good at making me wish I was cool. And while I usually fall for the most extreme of styling and presentation, their attention to detail shows the ways in which ready-to-wear can get somewhere extravagant gowns and headpieces can't. Combining subtlety and angst is seriously where I want to be this fall.

91 comments:

I've been following your blog for over an year now. As a fashion design student, with hectic schedule and assignments..... it's really difficult to keep myself updated with the latest happenings in industry. Glad am following your blog. keep up your good work :)

Very effectual in conveying angst, Jack and Lazaro are. Yet they take the negative connotations that some people relate to angst and make it overwhelmingly beautiful. They make the contradiction coincide.

Every time I look at this collection I feel the need to dishevel my hair and apply on the darkest shade of red on my lips and then rock out to PJ Harvey or Patti Smith as loud as my speakers permit.

I have to say that I agree with you about this collection. At first glance, it made me want to cry because it was sad to think that the spring collection was no longer the main focus of Proenza. These two men are really so talented, everyone wants to wear their clothes. People always talk about effortless cool, and how some brands just are so "effortless and cool." Well, if any brand deserves that description, it would be this one. I love energy of the clothes. They don't feel completely estranged from the streets, from what people are really wearing. Rather, they suck up the emotion/pop culture/indie culture/what's new/what's cool and translate that it high-end clothes. The collections are cool because they take inspiration from street cred and the real cool kids. And, yes, it does make you want to be cool. I mean, those graffiti pants? Just so amazing. Great review, as always. Those shoes are quite amazing, too. Disco hooves.

I loved this collection when I first saw it! (but I saw it in photos online so I had more time to really stare at the details) "Combining subtlety and angst" is the perfect way to put it, really. Also the models have absolutely perfect bedhead.

This is one of the most interesting and informative show reviews I have ever read, you are such a fantastic writer. I agree with you that this collection doesn't immediately make you fall head-over-heels in love with it in the way that their spring/summer one did. But after having a good look at each piece I am really, really impressed. Proenza Schouler are fast becoming one of my favourite brands and this collection demonstrates a perfect combination of cool, wearability and high-fashion luxury. I would SO more than happily bankrupt myself to get my hands on those awesome shoes... or one of the funked up babydoll dresses... or to be honest any of it. X

yeah i kinda have to agree with u.. when I first saw the show I wasn't exactly thrown out of my chair=p.. its just one of those collections that you need to wait for the detailed photography before u can give the collection a review..

Honestly I wasn't too impressed with this collection either, and for most of it, I'm still not. What I do like is the integrated prep/ivy style pieces. Good examples can be found in the last picture you posted. Pictures 1 and 3 are clearly prep influenced, even though the designers have managed to successfully add an almost goth edge to these classic cuts.

Proenza is one of the labels that excite me the most. I wait for their collection.I liked this collection, althought in some point, I felt like it was the fall version of the summer collection. The textures and the details were my favourite. I freaked out with that shoes, they make me wonder "how they create that? what they were thinking" but in a good way, like, how someone can have such an amazing imagination to create that shoes.As always I liked that with proenza, clothes has this sort of rude and aggresive actitude, not sweet stuff.

I actually love a lot of the dresses. The shape is amazing, the length is a bit short, but it works on the models. I especially love the first one, it's got a really interesting structure and prints. And of course the thigh-high tights are to die for.

yeah...no... this isn't a very:"Oh My God look at that! But wait there's more! Wow! I love it!"type of collection. It's all very detailed like you said but not my cup of tea. The last set of pictures you posted were alright but I think there could of been more fruitiness. You know what I'm saying?

well, i'm not that particularly fond of these shoes. to me they look like something Judge Dredd would wear if he was a crossdresser, no offense, please. some of the dresses look pretty sexy though, but i'm in the mood of seeing them worn by some other people than walking asparaguses right now. sorry again.

totes concurs. i fall a little more in love with the proenza girl everyday. my favorite look was tati cotliar's all black schoolgirl look. definitely how i felt my uniform should have been in high school. especially the perfect conversion of hemline and thigh high.

This fall/winter collection is no longer than last spring/summer season (cuz last season was reall great especially black pants with white t-shirt and shades)but it is like a teen cool kids in the new york street!those two guys are so talented so i'm expecting to next spring/summer

I am in so much love with proz. sch. latest collection, I have no idea how to deal without having their pieces. my fave is the third outfit from the right. these hit right spot on for school girl cool. man, I wish my school had private school like uniforms, nay!