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Topic: inexperience, skilfull, competent (Read 2064 times)

If you fall, you are an inexperience climber, but competent climber fall too.

If you are competent grade 4 or 5.11 climber, Did that means that you can climb every grade 3 or 5.8 easily?

skilfull means nothing. I can pull 200 pounds, I can do a layback, I evaluate the distance of my other protection from my last one, are more meaningfull

In fact, if you are training strenght and technique ten hours a week, it is easy to climb 5.10. If you have a family and other responsibilities...you can't climb that level in other way than cheating (if you do an other sport, you aren training for strenght).

So, climber who can go climbing one day a week or less are they allowed to climb?

In my opinion, if you don't have time for training, it is possible to climb safe, but not hard. Up to 5.7, many climber don't need to go in a gym and can do a climb without workout. There is many interesting route at that level for many years. The problem is that, even if you told them that you have little time, some people push you on higher grade.

So, my question is how can we decide what is our level without the annoying pressure of 5.++++ climber?

it is include in the ten hours. In fact, to work your technique you have to climb. I did some exercise to know body movement in a gym, but it is nothing at climbing.

The ten hours is from a german book translate in french and work mostly for on sight climber...that means where ever you are you can climb 5.9 or 5.10 if it is your level. Real cotation, of course. Some place lower the difficulty to have more climber and there is still sand bag.

I used to train at barber wall, placing all the pro in my rack in the pitch without hanging on the rope. I do laps and when I fall, ask my belayer to lower me and clim the route two more time, or to the moment my hands open...and there is more exercise to be stronger like climbing all the route with layback what ever if an other technique is more efficient, face climbing every thing, etc. It could be sport climbing too, like working a route...

I make a strong distinction between climbing for training, climbing to reach a goal and climbing for fun.