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A few questions on romanian build

Hey, I am a new kid on the block here. I am going to build a couple of AK rifles from Romanian parts kits. I have done this before but it's been several years.
I have a few questions so I'll get right to them...

1) One kit is from an older rifle, dated 1969. The gun is completely mismatched. Can I anticipate head space problems? Hopefully, I can assemble as usual and no problems.
I am not worried about mismatched parts, I just want a reliable and functioning rifle.

2) This older rifle I just spoke of, seems to have a more robust recoil rod. The newer kits I have , the recoil rods look like long u-shaped wires. The older one looks like a rod and tube. I assume this is fine? Would they be interchangeable?

3) I can't remember, but I think the springs from the old rifle can be used with the new trigger group?

For what it's worth, I'll be using Nodak NDS-3 receivers, rivet builds, and something like Duracoat for finish on metal. For parts count, I'll be using US made receiver, gas piston, trigger group, pistol grip. Unless someone gives me better options.

If you take a look at the compliance group that DPH lists - it has G2 listed - that's a Tapco G2 fcg - good. If the bolt will close on a go guage and not a no-go guage, you are fine. I would suggest simply calling Brownell's tech team - they can answer your question about this - you may be fine with just a field guage. As to how to fix a problem, it would entail either a new trunion or a new bolt - those are the two parts that determine head space.

for compliance parts, its all up to you, but im just gong to mention that i use the muzzle brake instead of the pistol grip. you will never be able to tell the difference between the 2 muzzle brakes, but the replacement pg wil never look quite like the original bakelite one. thats why i do it that way. i like to keep them looking as original as possible. your list was perfectly fine, ut if you think like i do, thats just another route to mull over.

now, headspace.

the bolt must close on a go gauge.

the bolt shouldnt close on a no-go, but with a loose ak chamber, it might, and is not a total deal breaker.

the bolt must not close on a field gauge. (this is the largest of the 3)

one possibility, if head space becomes a problem, would be to press your barrel pin back out, press your barrel in or out as needed to get a proper headspace measurement, and then redrill the barrel pin to a slightly larger diameter pin to take up the misalignment and still press in holding everything tight.

the cam in the carrier will easily ram an oversized gauge home and screw shit up if you just let it slam home.

one method is to pay careful attn to teh position of the bolt and where it locks in relation to the carrier, and move it very lightly under hand pressure only with NO recoil spring.

i prefer to use JUST the bolt head to check head space, no carrier. slide it in and twist it into position. it will be easy to tell if you are getting drag from the gauge.

one more thing, ether method you try, you should strip teh bolt first. a sticky firing pin or extractor can easily throw off a reading.

Thanks! I assume I can just install the barrel/trunion in the receiver, and slide the bolt face up into position, and check that way?
Or can I check with the barrel/trunion not pinned in the receiver?
Thanks for your insight!

Anyone have a used set of go/no go gauges for sale? I may buy a set and then sell it after the builds, I don't plan to do this any more after this build.

Thanks! I assume I can just install the barrel/trunion in the receiver, and slide the bolt face up into position, and check that way?
Or can I check with the barrel/trunion not pinned in the receiver?
Thanks for your insight!

Anyone have a used set of go/no go gauges for sale? I may buy a set and then sell it after the builds, I don't plan to do this any more after this build.

ok, so i assume your doing a screw build. my condolences

if you are doing a rivet build, you will need to remove the barrel from the receiver to rivet it, therefore, checking the head space before hand is a moot point. it will have to be checked after the rivets are installed and the barrel is pressd and pinned back in.

if your doing a screw build, it is possible to assemble the bbl/trunnion assy to the receiver without separating the two. in which case, head space can be measured at any time, as as long as your not pressing the barrel out, it will not change ata ll through the progress of the build.

He is doing a rivet build as stated in his first post. It is not moot to check the head spacing before disassembly. Actually is smart to. If spacing is good before pressing the barrel out, then you will be pushing the barrel back in and using the existing hole for pin to realign the spacing. You can usually get a near perfect match to where it was. I sometimes use a drill bit shank that fits almost snug to align when pressing the barrel back. Otherwise I machine a slightly undersize pin to use for alignment.

He is doing a rivet build as stated in his first post. It is not moot to check the head spacing before disassembly. Actually is smart to. If spacing is good before pressing the barrel out, then you will be pushing the barrel back in and using the existing hole for pin to realign the spacing. You can usually get a near perfect match to where it was. I sometimes use a drill bit shank that fits almost snug to align when pressing the barrel back. Otherwise I machine a slightly undersize pin to use for alignment.

well, possibly if the hs is a mile out, testing before hand might prepare you for it afterward, but either way, it can and will change when you are pressing the barrel back in and out and repinning it. but either way, there is no guarantee that the final hs would be the same as the hs beforehand, so i will stand by my stance of it being moot.

it like wiping your ass before you shit. sure, you can, and its not going to hurt anything, but in the end, it dosent matter either way.