A Sandwich a Day: The French Dip Enigma at R.J. Grunts

The French Dip Enigma ($12.95 with chips) at R.J. Grunts would make an excellent spouse. You probably won't fall into wild, giddy, stupid love with it. It's not going to make your heart flutter or you knees quake. But if you need your leaves raked or a fuse replaced, this is the sandwich for you. It's nice, it's predictable, and kind to strangers.

The "enigma" of the sandwich is that it's served on garlic bread. Sorry, should have prefaced that with Spoiler Alert! But the Grunts version of garlic bread is a soft, untoasted French baguette smeared with garlic butter, so that it mostly melds with the meat. The meat itself is thinly-sliced, tender, and moist. The au jus doesn't have a wide depth of flavor, but gets the job done. And the horseradish sauce is much like the rest of the sandwich—good, approachable, but nothing too crazy. A sandwich you can take home to meet your mother.