The motor completely dies approximately one or two minutes after startup. I just have enough time to pull out of the drive, get into traffic, and it dies. I doesn't do this every time, just intermittently. In the past it has started right up again but recently it refused to start up for about 15 minutes. This has happened twice. The problem started after a new distributor was put in.

Have car scanned if possible! to find problem code.but it sounds like a bad crank sensor. if it fails the symtoms are, the engine may start, but it will cut out in a few minutes. or seconds of operation, it controls the timing. it will cause car not to start back up for at least 10-15 minutes. have car scanned first.

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if there is any startup noise than it is the matter of spark plug but if there is not at all noise or action while ignition than there woul be three problem
either a ignition wire had been cut off or the battery terminal have any loose contacts or the ignition switch was malfunctioning.................please check the things

The possible CAUSES of the problem you describe are NUMEROUS!.. You may have what the industry calls a 'LEMON.' There is a LEMON law in every state. Sinse it's a 2009 model, keep at them (dealership). Warranty procedures APPLY! You may not like it, but you are covered under WARRANTY!.. I'm sorry, but under the warranty agreements between Hyundai Motor America and the Dealerships, you are relegated to KEEP AT them.The most difficult problems/malfunctions to diagnose are those which DON'T STAY BROKEN! Tell you what, since you posted your problem here, you'll have to do some homework yourself (become a Hyundai Certified Technician).. then you'll see how DIFFICULT the diagnosis can be. Walk a mile in the technician's shoes! Sometimes the problem can simply be a resistive/poor ground
circuit, OR, could be potentially a multitude of different problems. Take/tow the vehicle into a Hyundai Service Center (dealership), Insist they find out what the problem is!... Then you'll have the option of having them buy it back under the "Lemon Law.'

You have a very common problem. You have lost the "base idle" paramater, by changing the battery. What you need to do is drive the car thru several "drive cylces". Drive it in stop & go traffic, stop & let it idle for 2 minutes...then get an the expressway, engage passing gear several times. Pull off somewhere safe, let it idle, and duplicate the cycle again. This will teach the ECU the base idle, and you problem will vanish. We do this every day, for the same issue. Common problem, easy fix.

The battery light is an indication of some kind of problem with the alternator, most likely a diode problem in the rectifier bridge, this changes AC current to DC current to supply power to the car and charge the battery.

The cruise problem is most likely the cruise control module is failing.

There are 3 major issues with the V6 Rodeo. The intake manifold gaskets leak. The drive by wire sensor on the gas pedal goes bad and makes it stall or run at just idle (light will come on). And your problem is the wiring harness to the motor. Get under while it is running (best to do on lift) grab the harness and shake it and pull it. Engine will probably die. Sometimes taking plug apart and using electrical contact cleaner on it will work, sometimes a stick of dynamite will cure all the issues with these. My son was almost killed three times in his 2001.