I've never used one, but I have certainly seen them used, and they appear to flex quite easily. That is not a good thing, they will rub the inside of the barrel.

Two schools of thought, coated or stainless. The coated camp likes the idea of a rubbery non harming finish should it rub the barrel. The stainless side says the burnished/hardened rods cannot pick up debris like a coated rod.

I have both, and use both. I really like ProShot's stainless rods. Very nice, straight and work very well. The coated rods I have are Dewey's. Again, excellent rods.

The Bore Tech rods are terrible. The coating will come off exposing edges and the steel rod inside. And, they will not stand behind the coating coming off.

The Dewey's I have are over 15 years old and look great, coating intact.

Just as important is a bore guide. A good guide is a must if you really want top protect the barrel and throat. For the money, Mike Lucas' guides are the best. Guides sold by Sinclair also do very well. It should seal in the chamber to prevent solvent from migrating to places it shouldn't, like the trigger.

I like my Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod. It's one piece, a bit flexible but very straight and gentle on the bore. It will score if rubbed against a sharp surface though. Has a ball bearing in the handle which helps the rod follow the rifling. IIRC, you may have to get Tipton tips and brushes. Not sure if they have a standard thread.

I like my Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod. It's one piece, a bit flexible but very straight and gentle on the bore. It will score if rubbed against a sharp surface though. Has a ball bearing in the handle which helps the rod follow the rifling. IIRC, you may have to get Tipton tips and brushes. Not sure if they have a standard thread.

I like mine too. True they will flex but also return straight. I've used them all have have about every type except for the stainless. Kleen-Bore's coated one piece rod's coating will soften up using Shooter's Choice.

I use Dewey coated rods. Have been for a long time, too. I have not tried other brands/types, so I can't compare.
The recommendation of a bore guide is a good one. Also, whatever rod you buy, get in the habit of wiping the rod off frequently- any grit you wipe off can't get in the bore, whatever kind of rod you use.

i like the tipton rods except after time the brass end that you thread your brush into will become worn to the point that it will break. i think solvents and abrasion work on it making the walls paper thin.

Location: where I grew up in West Central Idaho surrounded with Mountains and game from Elk to antelop, plus preditors. A lot of Forest Service Land

Posts: 301

I was alway hard on Aluminum rods so it may be me rather than the rod, but aluminum flexs.

Barnes bore solvent - is not reccomended for brass or aluminum rod parts. I assume that this is not rare as many have no warning.

The stronger copper solvents attack brass and some react with Aluminum. One would need to have to clean the solvent off a brass part prior to storage at least and in any case expect wear.

When looking for a rod to use for cleaning after shooting Barnes Bullets, I had a real tough time finding a rod without brass parts, I ended up getting a steel rod and getting a nylon brush. It came with brass attachements that I will rarely use, as that will only add more work for the solvent - eroding the brass rod parts.

I think you're asking about the wrong component. A quality rod guide and proper technique far more important than the rod, as long as you are using one of the quality one piece rods. Unless you're trying to cram a jag with the wrong patch or improperly fitted patch, the rod should never flex and make contact with the barrel.