Cloudy Bay 1997 Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc ($17.99)
Pale greenish-gold. Delicious grapefruit and marked chile-pepper aromas, the trademark of Cloudy Bay. Crisp, fresh and tart, with good jalapeño and bell pepper flavors, but none of the controversial "cat spray." Full-flavored and delicious, justifies its high-end price. Best drunk up in the first year or two, while its flavors are fresh. U.S. importer: Cliquot Inc., NYC. (July 4, 1998)

FOOD MATCH: Makes an excellent marriage with the citric and herbal flavors of Greek-style chicken braised with lemon, garlic and oregano.