Description

This area of the tower gets sun in early afternoon at summer time, and gets it early afternoon in the winter. A 70m rope is useful for most of these routes, though not necessary. If not used, the midway anchors must be used to descend the routes.

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Getting There

Find the tower (duh!) and look for Goliath (the huge nose), and the routes to the wall to the left is the west face.

The anchor in question has been there for a long time. I believe it was put in by Chris Grijavla. The line to it was not bolted at the time. This spring I headed up and started working on that line. With the intention of starting on the Hatter and heading straight up as opposed to moving right to the Jack Daniels pit stop, hopefully yielding a more continuous line. It however still needs a fair bit of cleaning through about 15 feet and this is over the trail so cleaning needs to be done when there is nobody around.
Sep 22, 2012

There are three sets of chains on the West Face (to the right of the ones for Full Rubber Mission). I presume the ones on the right are for Zee Wicked and Ripped Van Winkle and the next ones to the left are for Mad Hatter. I don't know anything about the furthest left anchors. Can anyone clarify which starts/finishes correspond to which routes?
Sep 21, 2012