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WACO YMF

Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RCWant to discuss some of those from the golden age, vintage rc planes or even an old classic antique vintage rc planes, radios, engines, etc? This is the place for you. Enjoy!

If you will look back to page 110, you will find that you are WACO Brother #56. I used to update the roster when a request was made, but now I only move the roster to the current page every 10 pages. The size of the thing almost wipes out the entire page for posts, and so that is how I do it. Welcome to the Brotherhood. I hope you derive some good from it.

Jay,

Great job on the shirts....Mine came yesterday, and they not only fit well, but they look great. How about a second edition?????

All,

Jay and I have been talking about different editions, and not using the same colors twice. That way one would be able to recognize which edition of shirt that you are looking at. Janelle has already requested a shirt with her Red Waco, so I'm trying to talk Jay into doing that one next. I would like a windbreaker as well, so Jay, the ball is in your court.

Bill - Thanks very much for accepting me into the Brotherhood. I have contacted Jay and will have a couple of shirts in a few days to wear with pride and proudly promote this noble interest. My buddy and co-WACO lover - who is now away on a well deserved holiday - will probably contact you on his return.
Regards

I have run in to a bit of a problem with my wing tip. The pics not to good but I think you can see the w-13 T.E does not line up with w-7 & w-8 rib. I have checked to be sure the wing rib are the proper size. I don't see how the covering will work out if this is left as is. Is this a common problem?? At this point I can recut another one to match the ribs ends but don't know.

On a different subject I've been playing around with how to do the corrugated cover for the ailerons and have come up with this see what you think it is vary thin aluminum.

Take a look at the full size wing tip pictures I posted back on page 110, post 2728, they may help you visualize your situation. The plans show the Ribs W-7 and W-8 attached to W-13 in the rear and the Big Tip Block in the front. W-13 should project past W-8 slightly to blend in with W-9 Tip piece. The wing tips taper slightly on top from the last W-6 to the tip and much more on the bottom. The taper on the bottom (of W-13) of the real wing starts about halfway between the last 2 W-6 Ribs and continues to the tip. It seems to give that section washout as the bottom of the ribs taper up towards the rear more than at the front.

The aileron skins look very, very good, what thickness of aluminum are you using? Roof flashing I think is too thick but would be good because it can be obtained in small rolls for a continuous surface. You may need to make the wood core of your aileron a little smaller for the skins to meet at the trailing edge like they do on the real ones.

John, Thanks the pics will be vary helpful with my problem I haven't glued that piece in yet I wont to be sure it's right first.

The aluminum I used came from my local news paper shop I cant remember what its called they use it in printing news papers some how. I buy it used for a buck a piece. It's the same size as a news paper page. Its vary light the piece in the pic is 0.5 oz the same size 3/32 balsa is 0.2 oz (according to my scale)
The hardest thing was cutting the gig (in the pic) this is the forth one I cut. Doing the math was easy I found it on the thread somewhere about 3/8 spacing transferring that to a piece of wood however was not so easy[:@]. I couldn't have done it with out a table saw. After the gig was cut I clamped the aluminum on one end and with a piece of wire and my 13 oz hammer I went to pounding in the saw groves one at a time. Its not a perfect system but I really like the way it looks.
The piece in the pic is just a test piece If any one would like to see it first hand I will be happy to mail it to you to get your opinion. There are still some bugs to work out but I think it will work and look good when finished.

That stuff is called lithoplate, and it should work out well for your application. The aileron piece is the correct shape, so you will need to shape the ribs and the spar to match. If you think that this is a bear, wait until you have to shape the leading edge tip blocks....

Just read my signature line at the bottom of the post. With this type of model, it is a true statement. You will need to sand off everything that does not look like a WACO YMF.

Trlambsr and all- I plan to work out the details for embroidered clothing, jackets and hats. This will take some time so bear with me.
I do not know yet if demand will warrant a second printing of the current shirt/colors. That is up to the Brotherhood.

It is not feasible or cost effective to produce less than 6 dozen screenprinted shirts. On the other hand, once embriodery designs (approx.$500.00 to digitize) are on file at the supplier, small quanities of embriodered pieces are no problem.

Out of 98 shirts printed I only have some XXL tees and a few Large tees on hand now.

Thanks again for all your comments and support!

These 'earthy colors' on neutral shirts will age gracefully. I'm wearing mine as I write this. Enjoy them and stay tuned.

Too bad we can't all get together for a group photo, all wearing our new shirts.

I had an interesting conversation today with a guy named Aaron Silk; he is the current owner of Ikon N'West. They sell a 1/5 scale UPF (as well as a Model 10 and a Taperwing). I've heard both good and bad about Ikon over the last year, and was sort of hesitant to try dealing with them. Aaron has a full-time job with one of the railroads in Washington State, maintaining and repairing crossing gates, so he stays pretty busy. One of the things I've heard about Ikon is their failure to return calls, etc, but Aaron called me today (I was at work) and I returned the call this evening. The time difference between here and there and his work schedule makes convenient times to call difficult for him.

He said he has purchased a laser cutter and is gradually revising the kits and will eventually have all of them laser cut. Fortunately for me, the UPF-7 is a recent conversion to laser cutting. I asked him about the scale fidelity; he told me that the plans designer was the former owner of Ikon, and had been a design engineer for Boeing. I think I can take that to mean that the plans should be true to scale. he orders his balsa from Balsa USA, so that speaks for the wood quality. He said that there are several being built right now by customers, and the ones he's seen completed look very good. I am going to order a kit for the UPF this week; he said it should take two to three weeks for him to get it cut and shipped to me. This should make a great companion piece to my UMF.

Too bad we can't all get together for a group photo, all wearing our new shirts.

I had an interesting conversation today with a guy named Aaron Silk; he is the current owner of Ikon N'West.

I bought an Ikon N'West 1/4 scale kit for a Beaver/Otter (senior moment) but it's at the back of a heap of "TO DO's". I was rather disappointed to find that there were numerous vacuum moldings to give the model its shape. They were very flimsy and that's why it's at the bottom of the pile. If you are happy with that, go ahead; me I have an attitude towards vacuum moldings, it probably goes together with my careless model storage and poor flying skills.

About a group shot complete with T shirts, how I wish. I would love to see Creve Coeur and Oskosh etc, now I can afford the trip I couldn't survive the flight. All the best to the Brotherhood.