hi, i realize this thread is old yet keep getting revived every few months

i was wondering what is the latest and most current consensus regarding mounting the ninja plus revB to a haswell (socket 1150) build?

im planning to build a hackintosh based on a 4770k and a Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H and was wondering if it is worth trying to use my never used ninja for this project or should i just buy a modern heatsink? (mostly concerned with temps asim planning to OC the cpu to 4.0ghz and use two nexus 120mm fans.)(there will also be a asus gtx 660 ti in the mix)

For the Ninja plus rev B, the version using screws to attach different mounting brackets for different CPU sockets, all you need is the Scythe Mugen 2 LGA1156 Mounting Kit which can be ordered from Scythe. I paid 8€ incl. shipping and I'm using it with an Orochi.

The Ninja Plus rev. B uses push-pins so a 1150/5/6 backplate kit such as this one from Sidewinder Computers could be used. It's a straight forward job to remove the push-pins and the backplate will potentially give better clamping pressure.

It's got to be metal, otherwise it would defeat the purpose. No plastic (read: in this price range) will even come close to steel's rigity. All backplates I've seen, even the most generic ones, were metal. Heck, even budget PCBs in motherboards are way more sturdy than plastic. Needles to say all backplates are padded, most often generously, with thick, stiff rubber. Or plastic, as in lodestar's first pic.

ill probably go with the plateless method that Benius linked to, however if I choose to go with the plate (assuming they ship to canada) that Lodestar suggested, will the 775 mount that comes with the ninja fit this plate?

What you need (apart from a 1155/1156 board and the original Ninja SCNJ-1000) is a backplate, such as one found in the Noctua NM-I3 SecuFirm2™ Mounting-Kit and a cutting tool.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed info on this thread. In particular, kater's post was very helpful and I just used this exact technique to successfully mount an 8 year old SCNJ-1000P to a brand new LGA1150 board. Saved me from having to get a new cooler, and the new (passive) setup is already running 15-20C cooler than the stock Intel HSF.

I have the Ninja Revision B, I think I'm going to try that backplate and screws from Sidewinder. It looks like I won't need to do anything else. I do have an 1155 AsRock board with the 775 holes (H77M), but no way am I using the plastic pushpins, and I don't think a 775 backplate will work properly given the CPU plate on the back of the board.

EDIT: Oops, well it doesn't seem like that Sidewinder one exists any more, any ideas on a backplate+screws for 1155?

There is an equivalent kit (plastic backplate) from this source. Despite the references elsewhere on the page this is clearly an 1150/55/56 backplate but it might take a while to ship from Hong Kong. But maybe grab it while you can...

I started with the Thermalright HR-01 Plus, and since it seems that, at least around here, no one has any "1155 Bolt Through Kit" in stock I got the socket 775 mount and tried to bend the feet... and broke one. One of those:

Switched to my Ninja Plus Rev. B (SCNJ-1100P), got the socket 775 push pins out, and waited. I needed a 115x backplate so I bought a cheap Theta 115, stole it's backplate (I hope the plastic will hold up to the Ninjas' weight) and ripped it's bolts (literally ripped them by hand, the aluminium just bends a bit and they get out). Also, the bolts have a small blocking washer that needs to be removed. Now, everything is available but since the bolt springs are a bit smaller I needed some washers, I though I needed 4 per bolt, I bought 100 ( ~US$1.5 at a hardware store), dry tested it on the board with 8 per bolt and ended up using 10 per bolt (so while 100 seemed a lot I ended up using 40). Another thing that will get pretty obvious is that the washers will be hard to handle as they tend to fall so I patched them with some clear tape.

The final product:

Attachment:

2014.04.28_1m.JPG

And the general view:

Attachment:

2014.04.28_2m.JPG

And a question, shining a flash light on the sides of the socket, dry mounted cooler, showed me that light was coming out, so basically the base of the cooler and the CPU are not tight, now, I mounted it with Thermalright ChillFactor white stuff and 20 minutes of OCCT 4.4 only got me ~70 degrees Celsius. Should I be worried?

I have a Ninja mini from 2008 with push pins for a LGA775. The push pins go through the 775 socket adapter that shipped with the Ninja. If I were to obtain one of these backplate solutions to fit a 1150 socket, I still fail to see how you guys are installing the Ninja on the new boards if the holes for the push pins don't extend to the new slightly longer distance. One poster above mentioned something about hammering it out to extend the arms a bit, but is there any less ghetto of an option? Or, is the oval hole through which the push pins were used long enough to accommodate the extra length?

775 holes are 72 mm apart, 1155 etc. holes are 75 mm, AFAIR. This is only 3 mm. Also, pushpins / pins / screws are not thick enough to occupy the entire diameter of the holes in the mobo. So, they can be a little askew. Given their length this can buy us the 3-ish mm. Also, the oval holes in the metal arms have some leeway.

Instead of hammering these metal arms, as suggested before and practiced, you could use a small diameter drill to elomgate the oval holes. It would be more of a milling action than drilling, but you know what I mean. Anyway, there is still plenty of metal on the extremities of these arms so some of it could be removed without compromising them.

Instead of hammering these metal arms, as suggested before and practiced, you could use a small diameter drill to elomgate the oval holes. It would be more of a milling action than drilling, but you know what I mean. Anyway, there is still plenty of metal on the extremities of these arms so some of it could be removed without compromising them.

Kater's solution should work fine with something like these which should screw into any back plate which has the M3 fitting. Even with the suggested backplate (which despite appearances does apparently have an insulating layer) this would only cost around $10 US. The Noctua NM-i3 backplate could maybe be feasible if it would take an M3 nut.

dano777, the bar (that I cut into separate eyes) is exclusive to the first version of Ninja, to Ninja Cu and also, I guess, it's used in Orochi; even if you can get the bar I'm not sure if there'll be a way to use it with your version

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