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you bring up a valid point. it feels exact the same as before.. i think these "potentiometers" (I put that in quotes cause I honestly don't know how they work or are set up) are detachable by two torx screws. ill try to check it out. maybe they can be swapped?

now you've got me worried... car seems fine though!

Now you have me wondering instead of paying for the sprint booster, maybe we can just adjust the potentiometers.

Mango, I can't say it was a result of the AA tune. I did not notice this issue prior to the AA tune. I installed the TSE3 and drove the car one time before sending the ECU to AA to incorporate their software. I don't know if any other people who got the AA tune have reported a similar problem.

Now you have me wondering instead of paying for the sprint booster, maybe we can just adjust the potentiometers.

Bad idea. The potentiometers are calibrated at factory....its like messing with the old vane style Air flow meters on an e30, once screwed with you can never get it back to factory calibration, Its calibrated for a reason. I love my sprint booster by the way.

I have a somewhat similar problem I'm trying to track down. Have you by chance measured the reference voltage going to your sensors? If not, could you do me a huge favor and see if you have 5V going to your crank and cam sensors? That is, with the ignition in the on position, if you measure the volts coming out of the harness at the exhaust cps, you should have one ground, one at about 12V and one at about 5V.

I have 2.73V instead of the 5V and have been trying to track down why.

I have a somewhat similar problem I'm trying to track down. Have you by chance measured the reference voltage going to your sensors? If not, could you do me a huge favor and see if you have 5V going to your crank and cam sensors? That is, with the ignition in the on position, if you measure the volts coming out of the harness at the exhaust cps, you should have one ground, one at about 12V and one at about 5V.

I have 2.73V instead of the 5V and have been trying to track down why.

Either, they should all have the 5v reference. This is the signal that goes to 0v when a piece of metal passes in front of the hall effect sensor. You can just unplug the harness and test the harness itself with the ignition in the on position, but the engine off. I can't remember which of the three ports on the harness should read 5, but one will be a ground, one will be 5, and one should be 12 (battery/alt output).

I really want to get rid of kickdown all together. I want to be able to give the car 100% throttle without kicking down to lower gears. From what I'm reading, the button doesn't seem to prevent kickdown, but is simply a physical clicker. Are there any wires or connectors that can be disconnected to prevent kickdown? I most likely will remove the switch regardless, but would like to know in advance if you found out any new info during your pedal removal. I removed my pedal a while back, but didn't have 5 point tamper bits, only hex. Finally getting back around to this and the 5 points are on their way.

ac doesn't play a role. i'm going to unplug my maf and try again (i thought i did this before but not 100% sure)

like i said i have a new throttle body coming. im also thinking about the golf-t mod... anyone know if the flap in the exhaust is in any way wired to the DME? I highly doubt the flap opening or closing would require timing or fuel changes.

whatever change is happening, it's happening at around 2,500 rpms upon increasing throttle input (will not happen if throttle is steady)

The flap actuator is DME controlled. It opens and closes based upon a wide variety of parameters such as vehicle speed, engine load, RPM, etc. but I don't think it has anything to do with the timing or fuel. The flap's behavior is based upon the engine and driver input, not the other way around.

The only purpose of the flap is so that the car can comply with noise regulations - hence the fact that my 325i SULEV has one. It have one less set of resonators than cars with a 2.5L M54, so the car actually failed the ~35 mph noise regulation so they had to add the 330i rear muffler with the flap to comply.

I wonder if this is the same thing thats been driving me nuts lately. at a stop i give it enough rpm to get from idle to about 1100 before i feel significant movement not just slowly building up. its like i have to get it to 1100 and 1300 to feel like its moving decently. then when im moving along on highway i give it gas to pick up speed from cruising and the rpm moves up depending on how much gas i give. then it drops down slightly then picks up again and is good. but it happens only when i 1st give it gas from stable speed. honestly it scares the crap out of me making me think my tranny is bad and i need to work on it or something. is this all related to this issue in the pedal? ( i hope lol) (automatic tranny)