Site Search Navigation

Site Navigation

Site Mobile Navigation

It’s Like a Burger, but Perhaps (Gasp!) Even Better

By David Tanis June 29, 2012 12:49 pmJune 29, 2012 12:49 pm

Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

If you’re in the mood to grill, why not make a chivito, the summery steak sandwich featured in this week’s City Kitchen column? Just as easy to make as a hamburger, but arguably better, it’s the iconic national snack of Uruguay. Essentially a chivito is a somewhat overstuffed affair with a thin slice of grilled beef on a roll, layered with burger-type accompaniments, and extras, like cheese, roasted peppers, grilled onions, egg, ham or bacon. But the best versions are small and restrained, or at least that’s the way I like them. (There are gargantuan chivitos as well, but I’d rather eat two little ones.)

David Tanis, who writes the weekly City Kitchen column, is the author of two cookbooks, “A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes” and “Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys.”

No outdoor barbecue? No problem. You can make your chivito indoors with a cast-iron pan or a ridged stove-top grill. The essentials are good beef and good bread. Everything else is optional. Homemade mayonnaise makes it more luscious, and a dab of freshly chopped chimichurri salsa contributes a garlicky herbal accent.

Though Uruguayans invariably opt for beef in this sandwich, they make vegetarian chivitos, too, notably one filled with creamed corn, though that ingredient may lose something in translation for American diners. I’d suggest slices of grilled eggplant and a smear of avocado (as well as the additional toppings) for a meat-free alternative.