Those Vintage oris that stop working a month or so after cleaned

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Hi everyone. Some vintage oris stop running not long after cleaned, I am sure the problem is common with vintage oris 677 kif and 704 kif.since I got many of them. I think of worn down staffs or weak main spring as the cause.

Interestingly dropping one drop of aircraft fuel on top of the upper and lower jewels of balance wheel only and it fly like combat jet.

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I use this stuff instead, it gives you a much better Buzz when you decide to thake a zip after watching the cap jewel fly away with an magical arch.
But Before that I just leve them lying in a small jar with a cap to soak, and finish of with peg wood.

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So far this thread seems to have concentrated on what to clean the jewels with, but I think you also need to be aware of what your enemy looks like. I've linked to the bit that shows some good examples of oil turned to snot, but it is worth watching the whole thing if you have the time. Also look through some of Mark's videos, he shows examples of manufacturing debris in one of his Seagull movement videos (which I can't track down at the moment).

This video gives a very concise view of what you may be missing. The issue is that often what I think is clean, isn't. This is where good magnification and good light comes in to play. Half a dozen trips through the ultrasonic, and any number of magic secret sauce cleaning fluids, may simply not be getting at the dirt in the first place.

Old oil is strange stuff. Sometimes it goes colloidal and viscous, sometimes it goes dry and powdery, sometimes it turns to tar, sometimes it is more like varnish or plastic, and in the latter form, it seem that only mechanical intervention will actually ensure that you get the dratted stuff removed as it appears to become impervious to both lighter fluid and detergent.

The "green cheese" and other dirt that gets in to places like the keyless works, and from there pretty much everywhere else, and the flakes of corrosion and machining swarf, and bits of ablated plating, are also sometimes almost completely impervious to cleaning fluids, as are human hairs and clothing fibers. When all else fails, you cant beat old school careful inspection and mechanically cleaning by hand.

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I use this stuff instead, it gives you a much better Buzz when you decide to thake a zip after watching the cap jewel fly away with an magical arch.
But Before that I just leve them lying in a small jar with a cap to soak, and finish of with peg wood.

its not easy to find 99.5 isoprop., usually 75, but is still cleans and "may be less distructive" on the shelack. the big diference is -- you can drink ethanol. !

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So far this thread seems to have concentrated on what to clean the jewels with, but I think you also need to be aware of what your enemy looks like. I've linked to the bit that shows some good examples of oil turned to snot, but it is worth watching the whole thing if you have the time. Also look through some of Mark's videos, he shows examples of manufacturing debris in one of his Seagull movement videos (which I can't track down at the moment).

An informativ video but that oil wasn't that bad seen worse in lots of my vintage watches..lol. He makes a good Point there with the microscope I Always check the parts after cleaning and use an Carl Zeiss Stemi DV4 Stereo Microscope for the task. Doing so has improved the performance of many of my watches since one can see where the dirt still is stuck and probably cut down the fault finding time since one doesn't have to worry about the dirt factor. And a final inspection is never wrong to ensure the cats haven't left any presents in the movement when it is assembled.
For my own records I seldom have the low resolution shots from a mobile camera but treat myself to have a slightly better quality since they are stored localy on the harddrive and dont need to be published. So for that task one can use something like this.

To the right it is an Nicon SMZ800N and to the left a Nicon LV100 POL.

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A Finn gave me the recipe the Finnish watchmaking school uses for clocks. It works well and is quite gentle. For anyone interested it's:1 liter 99% iso alcohol 3 liters distilled water60g oleic acid50g oxalic acidEverything heated in a stainless pot until quite warm, then ammonia, mixed in last, adding until the solution turns clear (about 80g of 25% ammonia)

The ammonia and oleic acid form a soap, and the ammonia is sort of neutralized so it doesn't eat into brass parts. The oxalic acid is a gentle rust remover.

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A Finn gave me the recipe the Finnish watchmaking school uses for clocks. It works well and is quite gentle. For anyone interested it's:
1 liter 99% iso alcohol
3 liters distilled water
60g oleic acid
50g oxalic acid
Everything heated in a stainless pot until quite warm, then ammonia, mixed in last, adding until the solution turns clear (about 80g of 25% ammonia)

The ammonia and oleic acid form a soap, and the ammonia is sort of neutralized so it doesn't eat into brass parts. The oxalic acid is a gentle rust remover.

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The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

The line is still pretty decent..

And the bracelet is nice and supple.

But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
Anilv

Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?

Could be bent pivot. Endstone pushing on the pivot. Try jewels ON without the endstone.
Before stripdown to mainspring , Push any gear reachable, ever slightly, to supplement the spring's force,
Pour a pallat of lighter fluid on jewels when runing. Also on pallet arbor.
Are you sure impulse is in beat?
,

If the shaft is too long. You can always pack it with these sorts of washers. The large black type in this photo. Its always better to be a bit long than short. Just make sure you have good clearance of the face and the glass.

You could get one of each size from Cousins and by trial and error fit the one best suited. Also a suitable set of hands ordered at the same time would leave a spare complete movement and a repaired clock for less than the ebay item.