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E-Mag Trigger Adjustment

The purpose of this thread is to show you how to adjust the trigger on any E-Mag. Since there's no other resource out there that shows how to do this, I will detail everything involved in the process and hopefully the pictures will help you get a better idea of what to do.

The first step is to degas the gun, take out the valve and then take off the mainbody. The next step is pretty important and many people forget about it. You need to take out the sear axle pin on the side of the rail FIRST and THEN lift up the rail and take it off. If you don't, you'll end up bending your solenoid plunger and causing premature wear on the solenoid liner. Shown below is the sear axle pin unthreaded and ready to be removed so the rail can be lifted up.

Now onto the trigger adjustments you need to take off the rail to get to. First of all you'll see in the picture below the gold magnet. This is the return magnet that pulls on the magnet that's glued into the top of the trigger. More magnets increases the pulling force and less decreases it. You can add any type of material as a shim inbetween the magnet and the bottom of the frame to lighten the trigger even more. I use an on/off center o-ring from the RT Valve. It's the very small o-ring that is inbetween the two pieces of the on/off assembly for the RT Valve.

To the left of the magnet you see the trigger and the pivot pin. I use some 1/8" ID X 3/16" OD X .004" Thick shims that you can get from MSCDirect.com to take out all side to side play in the trigger. I keep the pivot well oiled with KC Trouble Free oil and it is very smooth and not squeaky like most triggers.

To the left of the trigger pivot you'll see the selector switch and the set screw that adjusts the trigger STROKE length. This only adjusts where the trigger stops at the end of the pull in E-Mode ONLY. It does not adjust the firing point or anything else. The selector switch needs to be in E-Mode to adjust it. The set screw requires a 1/16" allen wrench. Tighten the screw to shorten the pull length and loosen it to increase it. You can back it out too far that the trigger stops on the body of the selector switch assembly and the set screw does nothing. This will be a really long E-Mode pull length, but some people might like a really long pull.

The next adjustment is the HES magnet. The set screw you see in the middle of the trigger is the adjuster screw for the magnet in the center of the trigger. The way the HES works is the magnet sends a signal to the energized HES chip that's inside of the frame once it gets within a certain distance. Turning it clockwise will move it closer to the frame and counterclockwise will move it away from the frame. You want it adjusted so that the firing point of the trigger is just before the END of the stroke. You want a bit of overtravel so it fires everytime, but you want it towards the end of the stroke so when you're shooting in rapid fire you don't have to let the trigger go all the way back forward to reset the HES so it can fire again. Moving the HES magnet closer to the frame makes it fire earlier in the stroke and vice versa for moving the magnet away from the frame.

Basically the steps for adjusting are as follows:

1) Disassemble the gun by taking out the valve, mainbody and rail.

2) Set the pull weight to your preference.

3) Set the stroke length for E-Mode to your preference.

4) Set the HES setting so that it fires right before the end of the stroke length that you just set. Push and hold the trigger all the way to the left and right and make sure it fires in both positions. There's enough play in the stock trigger that you can set it so close that it fires if pulled straight back but not if it's pushed to one side or the other.

5) Reassemble the gun and go throw some paint.

A few tips:

- Remove the allen wrench from the set screw for the HES magnet when you're setting the firing point. That can affect when it fires. You can get it to fire with the allen wrench inserted in the set screw, but once you remove it, it won't fire. Just something to keep an eye on.

- If you adjust the magnet too close to the frame so that it's adjusted so close that it would fire when you turned on the gun, the board will NOT boot. You might think you messed up the board, but most likely your magnet is too close to the frame. Back it out so it's further away from the frame and then the gun should turn on.

- AGD 1.35 and 1.37 boards do not blink when you pull the trigger to show that it's registering a shot as shown in the E-Mag tech video. Only the 1.31 board does this. To see if it's firing, put on your rail and axle pin and put the safety on. This will lift the solenoid plunger out of the solenoid and you should be able to hear it click enough to determine when it's firing.

- Make sure that your magnet that is glued into the top of the trigger is fully recessed into the trigger. Some of the early E-Mags had a glue that didn't hold up too well and the magnet would start coming out and this would affect the trigger performance and make it function erratically. Put the gun in manual mode and pull the trigger all the way back and make sure the magnet is flush with the top of the trigger.

- In the picture below I'm trying to show how the HES chip is suppose to be positioned in the frame. It has a 90 degree bend in it and it's suppose to slide into the groove of the back plastic piece and sit flush with the frame. I've seen many E-Mags where it's not inserted into that slot and it's bent so it's straight and the person put the top cover over and tightened it down. This will affect trigger performance and you'll never be able to get it set right. If you have a used E-Mag or you've had that part out before, make sure it's inserted properly into the frame. When you put the black top cover piece on, just snug up the screw. You don't need to torque it down. People do this and it cracks the plastic. The same goes with the rubber grips on the E-Mag. Just snug the screws down. If you over torque them, it distorts the rubber around the screw hole and the grips don't sit flush against the frame.

hey black how about you set one up with the blade trigger? and if you dont have the blade trigger if you want i can get you pics of mine. and where are you located in oregon? im in gresham its a suberb or portland.

Captain Of
Triage KidzTriage Kidz is looking for members email me for details.

The blade trigger is not much different from the stock trigger and they come with instructions on how to adjust them. Basically the set screw in the top of the blade trigger replaces the adjustment for the HES magnet in the center of the trigger. Everything else stays the same in terms of adjustment.

I'm in Klamath Falls, OR and I play on the OIT Engineers paintball team. We're right now the #1 team in the Klamath Basin paintball league. We have tournaments about once a month. There's one coming up here in the first week of June.

The fourth picture down shows the solenoid and the solenoid mounting plate (not really sure what its called). My question is, how far should the solenoid be screwed into solenoid mounting plate? Does it effect trigger tuning?

Nice job on the guide, but I have a question: How did you go about taking off the slack? I have found the item you posted but Im confused, did youpunch the trigger pin out and put one on each side, or one on the left/right side? Also, which way does the trigger pin go out on?

I think this extra side to side slack is really affecting my pull and I dont like it.

This isn't really about the trigger but I didn't think it was worth a new thread. How does the safety go back together? A little silver ball came out of mine and when I tried to put it back in you can't move the safety any more.

Re: E-Mag Trigger Adjustment

Originally posted by BlackVCG
To the left of the magnet you see the trigger and the pivot pin. I use some 1/8" ID X 3/16" OD X .004" Thick shims that you can get from MSCDirect.com to take out all side to side play in the trigger. I keep the pivot well oiled with KC Trouble Free oil and it is very smooth and not squeaky like most triggers.

You should be able to follow the steps above. The only difference is that the body and rail are built into 1 piece. Once you take off the body though, your frame should look almost exactly like the one pictured and you can follow the instructions or whatever.

The lower half of the PTP E-Mags is exactly the same as the AGD E-Mags, so all of the trigger adjustment procedures are exactly the same.

The PTP E-Mags have a thin brass bushing that is the same thickness as the sear. It doesn't stick out on both sides like the AGD bushing. Push the sear axle pin into the hole in the sear with the body off the frame and see if there's any play in the axle pin. If there is, the brass bushing is missing.

I know this is an old thread, but i just read it; got a link from pbnation in one of the threads. But i followed all these steps, and now my e-mag bounces A LOT. As cool as it is, it is also uncool because i cant use it in to many tournaments, how can i get rid of the bounce but keep the trigger pull the same?