We had intended to climb Moonshine IV 4 but ended up doing a variation on Left-hand Y gully instead. We chose snow and ice links in preference to the very dry turf. A number of awkward, balancy moves past the bulges made this feel harder than II/III. Great seclusion and quiet in this beautiful location.

We had intended to climb Moonshine IV 4 but ended up doing a variation on Left-hand Y gully instead. We chose snow and ice links in preference to the very dry turf. A number of awkward, balancy moves past the bulges made this feel harder than II/III. Great seclusion and quiet in this beautiful location.

Traversed into from Moonshine just above first icy step. Second icy step wasn't formed so went right around it and ended in a chimney which was more than I was bargaining for and a battle to get to the top of. Chimney felt more like 4/5 to me.

Traversed into from Moonshine just above first icy step. Second icy step wasn't formed so went right around it and ended in a chimney which was more than I was bargaining for and a battle to get to the top of. Chimney felt more like 4/5 to me.

Far harder than Broad Gully and Right Hand Y Gully. The 2 main ice steps weren't complete so bypassed the first one via a rib on the right, and the second via a shallow gully with a chimney finish that was a bit epic (III, 3 at least with cruddy turf and snow)

Far harder than Broad Gully and Right Hand Y Gully. The 2 main ice steps weren't complete so bypassed the first one via a rib on the right, and the second via a shallow gully with a chimney finish that was a bit epic (III, 3 at least with cruddy turf and snow)

combination of moving together with me at the front, and me rope soloing/leading and belaying the other 2 up. route was a combination of amazing neve and some ice, with slush and unfrozen turf, so a mixture of amazing and scetchy climbing at a hard grade 3. aparently the route is II/III in guide book, which seams more realistic. did an alternative finish up the icy face to the left for the last pitch, which was scary but straightforward.

combination of moving together with me at the front, and me rope soloing/leading and belaying the other 2 up. route was a combination of amazing neve and some ice, with slush and unfrozen turf, so a mixture of amazing and scetchy climbing at a hard grade 3. aparently the route is II/III in guide book, which seams more realistic. did an alternative finish up the icy face to the left for the last pitch, which was scary but straightforward.

Did this on our way to the Black Laddwers (it's not a quick way of getting there!). We were soloing and I went for the left hand finish following an icy groove. The ice was very brittle and it generally felt quite dodgy, though only tech 3. Ended up dropping a rope for Tom. He went on to do another pitch, which was a bit easier and less dodgy. From the top of the crag (actually nowhere near the summit) did a rising traverse along snow slopes onto the plateau.

with Tom

Did this on our way to the Black Laddwers (it's not a quick way of getting there!). We were soloing and I went for the left hand finish following an icy groove. The ice was very brittle and it generally felt quite dodgy, though only tech 3. Ended up dropping a rope for Tom. He went on to do another pitch, which was a bit easier and less dodgy. From the top of the crag (actually nowhere near the summit) did a rising traverse along snow slopes onto the plateau.