I'm glad I'm not the only one that had the glue issue. On my next build, I'm going to put in a weep hole. That might not much sense until I explain it. The weep hole goes along with another idea I've been kicking around to get the motor mount plate in perfectly straight. I'll take some pics when I get there.

More to come. I can only do so much at a time. My work schedule and everthing else has been crazy.

I'm still kind of bummed that I've wasted time and money by making the mistake that I did, but the only way you learn is by doing. With all of the tips I'm going to get here on top of what I've learned, my second build should be pretty solid.

The spar slots are pretty easy. The video does a good job. I used a 4" dry wall screw, so that only about half of the shank was threaded. I broke off the threaded part and insert the rest into a 30 watt soldering iron. CK got his at Harbor Freight cheaper than mine. I paid $6 at Aco hardware. Aco is a lot like Ace, same color scheme, different company.

The only thing I had trouble with was getting the iron too hot. If you let it sit too long, it almost melts the foam before the screw hits it. I bought the aluminun rule from Home Depot, cheap. Run the screw right against the ruler. I like aluminum because it desipates heat fast. It helps keep the top of the slot narrow to hold the spar it. I did a little practice run on a piece of foam free handed. The iron was too hot and I didn't use the ruler. The slot cross section turned out almost square and WAY too wide. I tried a one inch screw with a smaller head with the ruler and the slot turned out too narrow but the section looked great. I went back to the big screw and used the ruler. With a little adjustment for depth it turned out perfect. It's not perfectly symetric, but it worked great.

I use a crappy Ratshack 25w soldering iron with a socket cap screw that I customized. I grinded it till it was round. I then run it against a 1/8" thick by 1" flat aluminum stock from the hardware store. The spar snaps in and is level with the the wing plane.

I use this same soldering bit and technique to make the slots for the golden rod as well. Only thing I do different is use a scrap of golden rod under the strait edge at the trailing edge as a spacer. This way it'll taper off towards the end of the cut. Get my drift?

#1
Get some 1/16" x 3/4" x 3' aluminum stock from the hardware store. Use this as a flexible strait edge! I have mine bent to the shape of the airfoil. It works in either axis. I use this to mark my bays, and make marks where a solid strait edge makes it difficult.

#2
After the coro lid is glued in place it can become difficult to find the center/root of the wing. What I do is take my trusty flexy strait edge and lay it tip to trailing edge on the exposed centerline where the cores are joined. Take a ballpoint pen and make a mark all the way down the center, from the tip, across the coro, and to the motor. Now you have an easily visible centerline to mark out your servos and golden rod.

#3 IF YOU RUN A 7" PROP ON THE 50
Before cutting your servo holes, make sure you keep in mind where the linkage will attach to the elevon. If you run a larger prop on the TL50 your prop cutout will be larger. You'll have to move the servos out towards the tip about an inch more then usual. Basically what I am saying is you don't want the control horn sitting on the very inside edge of the elevon.

#4
When it come time to install the golden rod. sink your servos into the cutouts. Measure from the root to the center of the servo horn. Go to the trailng edge and make a mark at the TE the exact same dimension. Use your trusty flexy strait edge to draw a strait line from mark to mark. You will follow the center of this mark when your cutting the slot for the golden rod.( I use the same soldering iron for the golden rod as I do the spars. Just use whatever method you are comfortable with.)

#5
Always be sure to cut your golden rod down to size before you glue them in! It can be a real pain to cut them after the fact! Things can get ugly! The Goldenrod should end anywhere from 1.5-3" from the point it crosses the TE. In the video CK says 3" but I know he goes as little as 1.5" from the TE. I guess it would all depend on what your after, if you wan't huge throws you would prolly wan't more room. But with your average recommended setup 40 or 50"wing I set mine at 1.5-2" from the TE.