Notes

November 07, 2010

Oh, happy day! The first copy of my new guidebook just arrived from the printer, and it's all I hoped for. The operative word in the title — and what distinguishes it from my earlier books about England — is "From." This time I've eliminated the walking tours inside London in order to make space for new discoveries within daytrip range of the city. These include a preserved 19th-century canal village where you can ride a canal boat, take a waterside walk, visit the National Waterways Museum, or just watch the activities from a canalside café. Another is to a highly secret World War II military intelligence center where the Nazi codes were cracked and early computers developed. A third features a secluded 14th-century moated manor house, Winston Churchill's country estate, and one of the greatest of England's stately homes, along with the optional opportunity for real country walks. Then there's that Thameside village just west of London long favored by leading artists, and where the Keeper of the Royal Swans pursues his strange and uniquely British ceremonial duties.

September 18, 2010

Two days after the Ninth Anniversary of the 9/11 terrorist attack, a friend and I traveled to New York to see how reconstruction of the World Trade Center is coming along.

We began by driving from the Philadelphia suburbs to Hamilton, N.J., from where we got a Jersey Transit train to New York's Penn Station — riding upstairs for a good view. Since we both qualify for Senior fares, this was a very inexpensive journey.

Here comes the train!

Then a quick subway ride to Lower Manhattan.

CLICK ON MAP TO MAKE IT MUCH LARGERFrom the subway exit it's only a few steps to the best place to see what's going on, the churchyard of Saint Paul's Chapel. Built in 1766, this is the oldest public building in continuous use in Manhattan. Flanked by a picturesque graveyard, it was modeled after London's Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. Inside is the pew from which George Washington worshiped just after becoming our first president, and the wonderful altar attributed to Pierre Charles L'Enfant, the man who basically designed Washington, D.C. Above the pulpit is the symbol of the Prince of Wales, testimony to the fact that this was a royal church back in Colonial days. Inside also are memorials to 9/11 documenting the role that the church played in the recovery, and the support it gave to the rescue workers. The Bell of Hope, outside in the graveyard, is a recent addition, a gift from London, rung every September 11.

The Bell of Hope, St. Paul's graveyard, and Ground Zero in the background.

Visitors can't get any closer than this. The two buildings on the left are part of the World Financial Center, which survived the attack, as did the buildings to the right. The structure topped by two cranes is the rapidly growing 1 World Trade Center, also called the Freedom Tower, scheduled for completion in 2013. With its mast, it will top out at 1,776 feet, a figure of great historical significance.

Nearby, a Memorial Wall(photo, right) erected in 2006 honors the ultimate sacrifices made by heroic New York City Firemen who perished on 9/11 while helping others to survive.

Strolling around, we came across other views of the various buildings under construction and of the workers erecting them, although we could not really get close enough for a good view. The photo below is about the best I could do using my tiny pocket-size digital camera. After this we repaired to a nearby Irish pub for lunch and a Guinness Stout. This was certainly most welcome as neither of us had eaten since early morning back in Pennsylvania, and it was now in the middle of the afternoon.

Getting here from Penn Station is quite easy, just a matter of taking the clean, modern Eighth Avenue E Train to the WTC station at the end of the line.

Here's another photo:

Lastly, we walked north a few blocks to 45-51 Park Place, the highly controversial proposed site of a new Muslim-American Community Center. Since this, if built, will contain a prayer room, it is being referred to as a mosque. There is a substantial Muslim population among the bankers, traders, and other businessmen here in the Financial District, and the existing mosque is simply not large enough for their growing numbers.

That's it above. As you can see, there were precious few protesters there and only a small police presence. The guy to the right of the small tree was showing his rather badly executed painting of a Trojan Horse, while to the left of that a hand-drawn sign listed reasons why not all Muslims are terrorists and in fact most are good citizens.

July 02, 2010

Something new and exciting has just been added to the Garmisch-Partenkirchen-Zugspitze region, an area covered by my current guidebooks Daytrips Germany, Daytrips Bavaria, and Daytrips Austria.

The AlpspiX viewing platform juts out some 43 feet over the edge of an abyss, and it's 3,300 feet straight down to the Höllental Valley of Hell. Stroll out on it if you dare!

There are several ways of getting to it from Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Gateway to the Zugspitze Mountain and an easy daytrip from Munich by train or car. There are some good walking/hiking opportunities here, ranging from comfortable to somewhat strenuous. And, of course, great views towards Germany's famed Zugspitze. CLICK HERE for current information.

Earlier entries on this blog include the full chapters on both Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Zugspitze, both with maps and photos. Click on their names to view.

April 23, 2010

9 a.m., Wednesday, April 21, 2010. My friend Charlie Reilly and I took off from suburban Philadelphia by car to Hamilton, N.J., where we boarded a Jersey Transit commuter train to New York City's Penn Station. Incredibly, every paved parking spot at the station was already filled, so we had to park in an old overspill lot. When we asked the conductor why so many people were heading for the Big Apple he replied "because it's Wednesday." It turned out that Wednesday is Matinée Day on Broadway, attracting thousands of Jersey housewives.

Once there, we took a Fifth Avenue bus past my old studiodown to Washington Square, where by prearrangement we met Charlie's friend, John. From there we more-or-less followed a variation of the route I described in my 2004 guidebook, Daytrips New York.

After soaking up the atmosphere of Greenwich Village we headed over to the less-explored East Village, following The Bowery up to Astor Place and the old Cooper Union building of 1859. It was here, on February 27, 1860, in the Great Hall, that Abraham Lincoln delivered the historic anti-slavery speech that won him the presidency later that year. The very next day following our walk another president spoke here. That was Barack Obama, who addressed a group of Wall Street bankers, chiding them for their "failure of responsibility" and calling for tighter regulation of their industry. Lincoln and Obama were not the only presidents to have given speeches in this room — others include Grant, Cleveland, Taft, Teddy Roosevelt, Wilson, and Clinton.

By now we were hungry and, more to the point, thirsty. Fortunately, just around the corner from Cooper Union stands the world-famous McSorley's Old Ale House, here since 1854 and virtually unchanged since then. Oh, they do allow women in now, following a 1970 lawsuit. Tradition has it that Honest Abe imbibed here after his famous speech.

McSorley's serves their own ale, and only their own ale, dark or light, two mugs at a time. The prices are quite reasonable, but don't ask for any other beverage because they don't have it. They do have food, a selection of inexpensive sandwiches and hot meals from a daily menu on a chalkboard.

Ten dark ales coming up … our table was the one to the right, but that's not us. This photo was swiped from Wikipedia..

Prohibition, that vile social "reform" of the 1920s, hardly affected McSorley's, which continued to serve their own ale as if nothing had happened. The fact that this was a popular hangout for politicians probably helped avoid police raids. Back then it was brewed in the basement; today it's made by a major brewery and sold in bottles throughout the nation.

With an atmosphere reminiscent of Olde New York, McSorley's walls are covered with faded memorabilia, none of which has been removed since 1910. The floors are still covered with sawdust, the waiters and bartenders still emphatically Irish. And the suds, called "the ale which never lets you grow old," by the poet e.e. cummings, remains unchanged to this day.

McSorley's old motto, "Good Ale, Raw Onions and No Ladies," however, is no longer in effect following a 1970 court ruling concerning gender discrimination. Its remaining mottos are "Be Good or Be Gone" and "We Were Here Before You Were Born."

The definitive book about McSorley's (and a few other New York oddities) was written in 1943 by Joseph Mitchell under the title McSorley's Wonderful Saloon. It is still in print and available on Amazon (see below). To learn more check out McSorley's own website (click here).

Thirst sated, we wandered through Cooper Square, passing Lafayette Street and Broadway to LaGuardia Place, where we stopped at an outdoor café for a final libation before returning to Penn Station and home. Near the café stood a statue honoring the "Little Flower," Fiorello H. LaGuardia, New York's exceedingly colorful mayor from 1934 to 1945. That's him on the right.

April 08, 2010

From the new 2011 edition of my travel guide Daytrips From London, here's an easy one to the ancient port town of Bristol:

Trip 33

Bristol

A Daytrip From London

Bristol is a delightful city to visit, especially in summer. Few places combine the serious with the lighthearted quite so well. Where else can you see the sights from a vintage steam train or a tiny ferryboat? Or for that matter, explore the innards of an early-19th-century transatlantic steamship? Not many English cities boast as many sidewalk cafés or outstanding restaurants. Culture is not overlooked, either. Bristol has its fair share of medieval buildings, superb museums, churches, two cathedrals, several arts centers, and a world-renowned theater.

A thriving port since Saxon times, Bristol's prosperity was founded on wool, wine, tobacco, and the slave trade. Its enterprising seamen sailed to the far corners of the known world, and in 1497 one of them, John Cabot, first braved the North Atlantic to discover Newfoundland. Its commerce with the New World expanded as did the size of its ships. Eventually the harbor became inadequate and a new one was built at nearby Avonmouth. Heavy bombing during World War II led to extensive reconstruction. Today, the old downtown harbor is used mostly for pleasure, an amenity that makes Bristol an attractive place to visit.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave London's Paddington Station at least hourly for Bristol's Temple Meads Station, a journey of about 1½ hours. Return trains run until mid-evening. Be certain that the train you board is not just going to Bristol Parkway, which is out in the suburbs. Service is somewhat reduced on Sundays and holidays. Schedules at W: railtrack.co.uk.

By Car, Bristol is 121 miles west of London. Take the M4 to Junction 19, then the M32 into the center of Bristol.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bristol can be visited at any time in good weather. There is more activity, and more fun, on summer weekends. The local Visitor Information Centre, T: (0333) 321-0101 (toll call), W: visitbristol.co.uk, is in E Shed on Canon’s Road at Harbourside, a block east of Bristol Cathedral. Bristol has a population of about 408,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Out of a vast selection, some especially good places for lunch are:

Riverstation (The Grove, just south of Queen Square) Right on the river, an upstairs/downstairs place with lower prices below. T: (0117) 914-4434, W: riverstation.co.uk. ££ and £££

The Glass Boat (Welsh Back, just east of Queen Square) Lunch, tea, or dinner aboard a floating barge in the Floating Harbour) T: (0117) 0704, W: glassboat.co.uk. £ and ££

Brown's Restaurant (38 Queen's Road, near the City Museum) Large, fashionable, and very popular, this restaurant and bar features burgers, pasta, and all sorts of contemporary dishes. T: (0117) 930-4777, W: brownsrestaurants.co.uk. £ and ££

Arnolfini Café (Narrow Quay, at the south end of the quay) Casual meals in an arts center. T: (0117) 917-2335, W: arnolfini.org.uk. £

Leaving Temple Meads Station (1), cross Temple Gate and follow Redcliffe Way to *St. Mary Redcliffe (2), the massive parish church that Queen Elizabeth I called “the fairest and goodliest” in all the land. Rebuilt in the 14th century, parts of it date from the 12th. If you have time for only one church during your visit, it should be this one. Americans will be interested in the prominent tomb of Admiral Sir William Penn (1621–70), whose son William founded Pennsylvania in 1682. Outside, in the churchyard, look for the gravestone of Tom, the church cat who kept the mice at bay from 1912 to 1927, and was given a grand funeral as a reward. T: (0117) 929-1487, W: stmaryredcliffe.co.uk. Open Mon.-Fri., 8:30-5. Free, donation appreciated. Snack bar. Gift shop.

Continue across Redcliffe Bridge to Queen Square and turn right to King Street. One of the most colorful thoroughfares in town, this cobbled street is lined with old taverns as well as the Theatre Royal, home of the famous Bristol Old Vic repertory company.

From here you can either walk to the next destination, or take one of the small open ferries that operate daily from April through September. T: (0117) 927-3416, W: bristolferryboat.co.uk. Fares in harbour: Adult £1.60, seniors & children £1.30, and up.

However you get there, the Museum of Bristol (4) is worth a stop. Its displays cover the full range of Bristol's industries, past and present, including carriages, sports cars, trucks, a steam crane, and a full-scale mock-up of the locally built Concorde. Closed for renovation, should reopen in 2011.

Continue on by ferry, on foot, or — when it's running — an ancient steam train, to the:

Launched in 1843, the S.S. Great Britain was the first large steamer to be made of iron and the first to be driven by a screw propeller. Used for a while on the transatlantic run to New York, she proved unprofitable and was later put on the Australian service. Finally reduced to hauling coal to San Francisco, she was abandoned in the Falkland Islands after suffering damage during a hurricane in 1886. There she remained until 1937, when the hull was sunk off Port Stanley. In 1970 the S.S. Great Britain was refloated and towed all the way back to the very same dry dock in Bristol in which she was built.

This indomitable ship, along with other sights in Bristol such as Temple Meads Station and the Clifton Suspension Bridge, were all the work of the great 19th-century engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who also built the Great Western Railway. You traveled over this line if you came from London by train. Visitors may climb all over the ship, now restored to its original 1843 appearance (interior photo, below).

Adjacent to the S.S. Great Britain is the Matthew, a replica of the 15th-century sailing ship used by John Cabot to discover Newfoundland in 1497, an historic journey that was re-enacted five centuries later in 1997. Harbour cruises are offered at times, T: (0117) 927-6868, W: matthew.co.uk. Adults £9, seniors and children £7.

While visiting these two famous ships, make a stop at the adjacent Great Western Dockyard, where the story of shipbuilding in Bristol is told. Meals and refreshments are available on the site.

From here you can take the ferry back to the town center and then board a bus to Clifton, or you can just walk there. The route shown on the map takes you past the locks of the Floating Harbour, a section of the River Avon in which boats are kept afloat during low tide. From there it is uphill, going by some elegant Georgian houses near the top.

The *Clifton Suspension Bridge (6), another creation of Brunel's, is among the most outstanding in Britain. Poised 245 feet above the Avon Gorge, it offers spectacular views to pedestrians who cross it. Return and climb the mound to the left for another superb vista, possibly stopping at the Clifton Observatory. Don’t miss the nearby Clifton Suspension Bridge Visitor Centre in Sion Place. Here you’ll discover just how this fantastic bridge was built and maintained. W: Clifton-suspension-bridge.org.uk. Free tours on Sudays at 3 from Easter to mid-Sept. 11-5. Gift shop.

There is bus service back to town from the corner of Suspension Bridge Road and Clifton Down Road. You may be interested, however, in strolling over a few blocks to see the very contemporary Clifton Cathedral (7) on Pembroke Road. Consecrated in 1973, this Roman Catholic cathedral is a striking piece of modern architecture designed to meet the new forms of worship.

By bus or on foot, the next destination is the City Museum and Art Gallery (8) on Queen's Road. The collections include items of local archaeology, history, ceramics, and glass, as well as the fine and applied arts. With its unusual mixture of displays, this is really a fun place to visit. T: (0117) 922-3571, W: Bristol-city.gov.uk. Open daily 10-5. Free. Café. Gift shop.

Just a short distance away is the Cabot Tower (9) on Brandon Hill, built in 1897 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot's voyage to the New World. There are good views of the city and harbor from its 100-foot-high top. Presently closed for structural repairs.

Great George Street is a pleasant way to return to the town center. Along it is the Georgian House (10), an 18th-century merchant's home that's been lovingly restored to its original elegance by the City Museum. T: (0117) 921-1362. Open April-Oct., Sat.-Wed. 10-5. Closed Thurs. and Fri. Free.

Park Street leads to College Green and the Bristol Cathedral (11). A mixture of many styles including Norman, Early English, Gothic, and Victorian, its construction spanned a period of over 700 years. The most interesting parts are the choir, which has wonderful misericords, the eastern Lady Chapel, and the Norman Chapter House, dating from 1160. W: bristol-cathedral.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 8-6, Sun. 7:20-5. Suggested donation £. Café. Gift shop.

Continue up Baldwin Street and Corn Street to the intersection with Broad, Wine, and High streets. This was the old medieval heart (12) of the city. In front of the Corn Exchange of 1743 are four short pillars of bronze known as “nails,” on which merchants completed their cash transactions. From these came the expression “paying on the nail.” Make a right on High Street, cross Bristol Bridge, and follow Victoria Street back to Temple Meads Station.

March 30, 2010

Two of my Daytrips travel guides feature this fantastically lovely town not far from Germany's Frankfurt:

Trip 19

Michelstadt

A Daytrip from Frankfurt

The heart of the Odenwald is Michelstadt, a town of extraordinary beauty set in the enchanted forest of the Nordic god Odin; where once the Nibelungs hunted and Siegfried was killed by Hagen's spear. Or at least in legend. Today's Odenwald is a vacation paradise for the citizens of nearby Frankfurt. The history of its settlement began in Roman times, when the area had to be defended against Teutonic hordes. Michelstadt was first mentioned in AD 741 and soon became a place of some importance. The splendid medieval structures still gracing its narrow lanes are a reflection of the great prosperity that blessed the town during the Middle Ages.

By getting off to an early start, it is possible to combine this trip with one to Darmstadt. Those with cars could choose to combine it with Miltenberg instead.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Frankfurt's main station several times in the morning for the 15-minute ride to Darmstadt, where you change to a local for Michelstadt. There is also a limited direct service, so check the schedules carefully.

By Car, Michelstadt is about 80 km (50 miles) southeast of Frankfurt by taking the A-5 Autobahn to the Bensheim exit, then the B-47 — the famous Nibelungenstrasse — into Michelstadt. Shorter routes are possible but not as attractive.

PRACTICALITIES:

Michelstadt may be visited at any time in good weather. Some sights are closed on Mondays. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (06061) 979-997, W: michelstadt.de/touristik, is in the train station and also in the Odenwald Museum. Michelstadt has a population of about 17,000.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to the *Marktplatz (Market Place). In its center is an ornamental fountain that has been bubbling away since 1575. The *Rathaus(drawing, below)(Town Hall) (2), directly opposite, is one of the most photographed sights in Germany. Built in 1484, its steeply pointed roof and spired oriel windows resting on massive oak supports combine to form a vision that seems to have been lifted right out of the pages of a fairy tale. The scene is further enhanced by colorful half-timbered houses lining the square, and by the tower of the 15th-century church. During the warm months, outdoor café tables allow you to take it all in while enjoying a drink.

Turn right and visit the medieval Diebsturm (Thieves' Tower) (3) before crossing the old dry-moat to the public gardens. Stroll through these and into the Burghof (4), a courtyard whose origins date from Carolingian times. The present buildings are mostly from the 16th century and now house the interesting Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) and the Odenwald Museum, whose exhibits range from Celtic finds to the sword of the last town executioner. Both museums: T: (06061) 741-39. Open daily 10-5. €.

Now walk over to the Stadtkirche (Town Church) (5), a late-Gothic structure begun in 1461. Step inside to see the beautiful old tombs, then follow the map down Mauerstrasse. Along the way you will pass an intriguing 18th-century synagogue before going through the restored town walls. Turn left in the gardens, re-enter the walls, and return to the market place.

Two fascinating sights lie just outside the town proper. You might want to ask at the tourist office in the train station or Odenwald Museum about their current opening times — although the walk alone is highly worthwhile. To reach them, return to the train station (1) and continue on until you come to a creek. A trail to the right leads past a lovely old watermill to Fürstenau Castle(photo, below)(6). Begun in the 13th century, it grew over the years into a place of immense charm. The magnificent ornamental arch between two of the structures was added in 1588. Although the castle is still a private residence, you can wander around the courtyards and perhaps visit the tiny museum.

A path from the central courtyard takes you over the moat to Einhard's Basilica (7), an ancient stone church of impressive proportions built in the 9th century by Charlemagne's friend and biographer, Einhard. Once in state of ruin, it has now been partially restored and may be visited. Ask at the tourist office for current times of opening. €. From here you can retrace your steps back to the train station.

March 16, 2010

Here's a sample chapter from my new 2011 Daytrips from London guidebook, available now.

Trip 29

Warwick

A Daytrip from London

Many visitors go to see the magnificent castle at Warwick but completely overlook the town itself. That's a pity, because this is surely one of the least spoiled places in England. Small and compact, it has a wonderful blend of Tudor and Georgian architecture, a splendid church, marvelous gardens, and several fine museums.

Warwick grew up around its castle, whose origins date back to a fortification built here in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, to protect her kingdom of Mercia. Nothing of this remains, but there are still traces of the motte built by William the Conqueror in 1068. The castle you see today is largely of 14th-century construction with great modifications made down through the years to convert the interior into a luxurious home. Sold to Madame Tussaud's in 1978, it is now a showcase combining medieval elements with those of a more recent stately home, and outfitted with the inevitable wax figures.

GETTING THERE:

Trainsdepart London's Marylebone Station on Chiltern Railways frequently for Warwick Town Station (not Warwick Parkway Station), a trip of about 90 minutes. Good return service operates until mid-evening, after that it is infrequent and slow. Service is reduced on Sundays and holidays.

By Car, Warwick is 96 miles northwest of London via the M40 to Junction 15, then the A429.

PRACTICALITIES:

The castleis open every day exceptChristmas Day, but some of the other sights are closed on Sundays or Mondays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01926) 492-212,W:visitwarwick.co.uk, is in the Court House on Jury Street. Markets are held on Saturdays, and a farmers’ market on the 3rd Friday of each month. Warwick is the county town of Warwickshire, and has a population of about 22,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Some choice places for lunch are:

Rose and Crown (30 Market Place). An upmarket dining pub with superb modern cuisine, voted one of the best pubs in England. T: (01926) 411-117, W: roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk. Open daily from 8 a.m. on. £, ££, and £££

Considered by many to be the finest medieval castle in England, it will easily take two or three hours to explore. Everything is well marked and explained. The main attractions include the Barbican and Gatehouse, a 14th-century complex featuring an exhibition on the life of Richard III; the Armourywith its superb collection of weapons; and theDungeon and Torture Chamber, which has fascinating (if grisly) displays of medieval torture instruments. Beyond this,Guy's Towermay be climbed and the ramparts walked.The Ghost Toweris allegedly haunted by a 17th-century apparition. A major attraction — “Kingmaker — A Preparation for Battle”— brings to life the sights and sounds of 1471 as the Earl of Warwick readies his army for combat. More Victorian in character, the *State Apartmentsmake a gorgeous show of baronial splendor. Next to them is the Royal Weekend, a re-creation of a turn-of-the-century house party enlivened with wax figures of famous nobility.

Beyond the castle are lovely gardenscreated by “Capability” Brown in the 18th century. Peacocks roam about the trees, some of which were planted by such luminaries as Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Cross the bridge over the River Avon to an island(3) that has wonderful views of the south face. Also facing the river is the Mill & Engine House. This medieval watermill was converted to generate electricity for the castle as early as 1894 – quite an innovation at the time, and one that is thoroughly explained to visitors.

The Conservatory(4) is a fantasy recalling the spirit of Georgian times.

Leave the Castle and return to Castle Hill. A short walk down Mill Street takes you to the lovely Mill Gardens(5), a treat for gardeners everywhere. T:(01926) 492-877. Open daily Apr.-Oct., 9-6. £1.50.

Now follow the map to Oken's Houseat the bottom of Mill Lane, an Elizabethan dwelling that survived the devastating fire of 1694. It now houses an utterly delightful tea room, the perfect spot for a break. W: thomasokentearooms.com.

Continue up Castle Street and make a left on High Street to the Lord Leycester Hospital(6), (photo on right), a group of picturesque 14th-century almshouses that have been used since the 16th century as a retirement home for old soldiers. One of these gentlemen will be happy to show you around, and then you can visit the restored 16th-century Master’s Garden. T: (01926) 491-422,W:lordleycester.com.

Walk down Brook Street to theWarwickshire Museum(7) in the Market Place. Displays here cover archaeology, natural history, and local bygones in addition to changing exhibitions. T:(01926) 412-500. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5; and also Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 11:30-5. Free.

St. Mary's Church(8), nearby, has parts dating from the 12th century, although it was largely rebuilt after the 1694 fire. Its 15th-century *Beauchamp Chapelis incomparable, and its tower can be climbed for a nice view of Warwickshire. T: (01926) 403-940, W: stmaryswarwick.org.uk.Open daily 10-6, closing at 4 in winter. Free. Tower open daily in summer, weather permitting, nominal charge.

Jury Street leads past the East Gate, a relic of the old town wall, and as Smith Street toSt. John's House(9). This beautiful 17th-century mansion is now a museum featuring period reconstructions of a parlor, a kitchen, and a Victorian classroom, along with costumes and musical instruments. There is a regimental military exhibition on the floor above. T: (01926) 412-132. Open Tues.-Sat. and Bank Holiday Mon., 10-5; and also on Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 2:30-5. Free.

A short walk in the garden completes your tour before returning to the nearby train station.

February 23, 2010

These pages are taken from my newest guidebook, Daytrips From London, which outlines 47 one-day adventures by rail or car in Southern England — each complete with a walking tour map.

Trip 14

Guildford

Dating back at least a thousand years, Guildford is an unusually attractive old town with a rich architectural heritage. The Saxons named it Gyldeford — the ford of the golden flowers — after its strategic position on the River Wey. A Norman castle was built here, which remained a favorite royal residence for centuries. During medieval times Guildford became the county town of Surrey, a status it still holds. Throughout the Middle Ages the peaceful and prosperous town boasted a thriving woolen industry that died out in the 17th century, only to be replaced by another source of wealth, the shipping of goods by barge along its newly navigable river.

Guildford today is a remarkable blend of past and present. While it has done a good job of preserving the old, it also has some first-rate modern structures. The town is particularly rich in parks, gardens, and open spaces.

GETTING THERE:

Trainsto Guildford leave London's Waterloo Station at least every half-hour, with a journey time of well under an hour. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, Guildford is 33 miles southwest of London via the A3 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

Guildford may be visited at any time, but note that the museums are closed on Sundays, and the castle is closed from October through March. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01483) 444-333,W: Guildford.gov.uk, is at 14 Tunsgate, between the castle and the Guildhall. Guildford is the county seat of Surrey, and has a population of about 66,000.

Rumwong (16 London Rd., 2 blocks northeast of the Royal Grammar School) The tasty cuisine of Thailand in a colorful restaurant. T: (01483) 536-092. ££ and £££

The Weyside (Millbrook, near the boathouse) A riverside pub with garden seating and homemade pub food. T: (01483) 568-024. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station(1), follow Park Street and Millmead to the River Wey, which was converted into a navigable waterway as early as 1653. Through a series of canals and locks it is joined with the Thames to the north, and a one time was open all the way to the south coast. Now owned by the National Trust, the Wey Navigation is very popular with pleasure boaters, who have replaced the commercial barges of old.

Cross the footbridge to Millmead Lock. From here you can stroll along the water past the Guildford Boathouse(2), which offers river cruises, boat rentals, and a cruising restaurant. To reach it, use the footbridge and return via Millbrook. Cruises Easter through Oct., narrow boats all year. Daily, 9-5. Evening cruises to 10. Rates vary from ££ to ££££ for adults, less for children, depending on length of cruise and food service. Row boat rentals.T: (01483) 504-494, W:guildfordboats.co.uk.

The Yvonne Arnaud Theatre(3), delightfully located by Millmead Lock, is a modern circular structure that often previews productions before they open in London's West End. Its restaurant and café overlook the river.T:(01483) 440-000,W: Yvonne-arnaud.co.uk. Just beyond is the town mill, built over a millrace and now used as a scenery workshop for the theater.

Cross Millbrook and follow Mill Lane toSt. Mary's Church(4), the oldest building in Guildford. Its Saxon tower dates from about 1050, with the rest being completed by the 13th century.

Continuing along Quarry Street, take a look down Rosemary Alley, a steep medieval path to the river. Just beyond it is the Guildford Museum(5), which has exhibits of local archaeology and history as well as items connected with Lewis Carroll, author of Alice in Wonderland, who spent a great deal of his time in Guildford.T:(01483) 444-750,W: guildford.gov.uk.Open Mon.-Sat. 11-5. Free.

Pass through the adjacent Castle Arch, dating from 1265. To the right, on Castle Hill, is a private house called The Chestnuts that was leased by Lewis Carroll as a home for his six spinster sisters. This is where he died in 1898.

A path leads up to the Castle Keep(6). Built in 1170 on an earlier mound, it's all that remains of the great Norman castle that was once a favorite royal residence until it fell into neglect in the 15th century. Later used as a jail, the keep offers a marvelous view from the top. T:(01483) 444-718, W: guildford.gov.uk. Open April-Sept., daily 10-5, Oct. & March, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Closed Jan.-Feb. and Nov.-Dec. Adults £2.60, seniors and children £1.30. Grounds open all year, free.

Leave the grounds and follow the map to Milk House Gate, a quaint narrow passageway just before the multi-story parking facility. This leads to High Street, across which to the left is the Guildhall(7) with its protruding clock, easily the most photographed sight in Guildford. Its dramatic façade was erected in 1683, but the main structure is Elizabethan. Ask about the free guided tours on Tuesday and Thursday at 2 and 3.T: (01483) 444-750.

Head up High Street to the Guildford House(8) at number 155. Used for art exhibitions, it was built in 1660 and is noted for its beautifully molded plaster ceilings and carved wooden staircases. T:(01483) 444-740, W: guildfordhouse.co.uk.Open Tues.-Sat. 10-4:45. Café. Shop.

Just beyond stands Abbot's Hospital(9), or Hospital of the Blessed Trinity, an old almshouse with an interesting history. It was founded in 1619 by George Abbot, a poor local boy who was given a free education by the town. He rose to become the Archbishop of Canterbury and repaid the people of Guildford by building this home for their elderly poor, which is still used for that purpose. A guided tour of its splendid interior is available at stated times or by appointment. T:(01483) 455-591, W: abbotshospital.org.

The Royal Grammar School(10) is a little farther up High Street. Its modern buildings are on the left side, but those on the right date from 1586. Enter the old courtyard and look around. Visitors are occasionally admitted to the library, which contains priceless old chained books.

Return down High Street, passing Holy Trinity Churchon the left. This Classical building was erected in 1763 on the site of the medieval church that collapsed in 1740. It was used as a cathedral from 1927 to 1961. Another classical structure, the Tunsgate Arch, directly opposite the Guildhall, fronted the former Corn Exchange when it was built in 1818. A road now passes beneath it.

Turn right on Angel Gate, a narrow lane by the side of the ancient Angel Inn. This leads to North Street, scene of a colorful farmers' marketheld on Fridays and Saturdays. Make a left and return by Swan Lane to High Street, which you follow to the river.

Operated by the National Trust, Dapdune Wharf is a part of the River Wey & Godalming Navigations, which first opened in 1653 and reached Godalming by 1764. From then until its closure to commercial traffic in 1964 it was used to transport heavy goods to London via the River Thames. Today it is a perfectly preserved recreational asset offering boat rides along with a restored stable, smithy, and barge-building shed where visitors can climb aboard the barge Reliance. Interactive displays aid in discovering the history of Surrey’s secret waterway.

The first Anglican cathedral to be built on a new site in the south of England since the Reformation, it was begun in 1936 and consecrated in 1961. Although in line with the great English cathedrals, it is definitely a work on the 20th century, relying on proportion, mass, volume and line rather than elaboration and ornament. Its dramatic site atop Stag Hill overlooks Guildford and can be seen for miles around.

February 09, 2010

Here's a sample of the additions that I've made to the new Daytrips From London guidebook, available now. This guide will be more like the 1983 original, focusing less on London itself and more on exciting one-day adventures that can be taken from it.

Trip 4

Sevenoaks

A Daytrip from London

This little excursion is not for everyone, but if you enjoy visiting some of England’s most outstanding country homes along with a few miles of real country walking you’ll have a great time. Actually, most of the walking could be eliminated by taking a bus or taxi between sites, but that would be missing half of the experience.

You’ll probably only have the time (and energy) to visit two of the famous homes in one day; which two is up to you.

Sevenoaks is an old commuter town located some 21 miles southeast of London, and is easily reached by rail or road. Its sole attraction for visitors is Knole House, one of the largest, oldest, and most famous of England’s stately homes. Although still occupied by the same family since 1577, much of this enormous mansion is open to the public under the auspices of the National Trust. Surrounding this is 1,000 acres of deer park and millions of trees, the perfect place for a country stroll.

A completely different kind of house, Ightham Mote, lies just four miles away and can be reached on foot over pleasant country lanes, or by car, bus or taxi. This early-14th-century moated manor house retains its unspoiled medieval appearance, making it perhaps the best-preserved home in England.

Chartwell, the third possible destination, was the home of Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill from 1922 until his death in 1965. It remains almost exactly as he left it, complete with his personal effects and paintings.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart London’s Charing Cross Station frequently for Sevenoaks, where Knole is located. From there follow the text and map.

By Car, take the M-25 to Exit 5, A-224 London Rd. to Sevenoaks, then A225 Tonbridge Rd. to Knole Lane and entrance.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bring comfortable shoes if you intend to walk between the sites. The Sevenoaks Tourist Office, T: (01732) 450-305, is in the Library on Buckhurst Lane. A good tourist website for this area of Kent is W: visitheartofkent.com.

FOOD AND DRINK:

No. 5 Bistro (Royal Oak Hotel, Upper High St. in Sevenoaks, near Knole) Modern European and traditional British cuisine in the restaurant, bar, or alfresco conservatory. T: (01732) 451-109. ££ and £££

Knole Tea Room (Knole Estate) Lunches made from fresh local produce in season, some to historic 16th and 17th century recipes. T: (01732) 741-762. £ and ££

Leaving the Sevenoaks Train Station (1), you can either walk or take a taxi the one-mile distance to Knole. If you walk, just turn right and continue straight ahead until you come to a sign pointing to Knole Park on the left. Go through the park to the Manor House and take the guided tour. A leisurely stroll in the surrounding deer park is absolutely delightful.

Knole (photo, above) ranks as one of the largest and most famous of England’s stately homes. It is also among the oldest. The building as it stands today was largely begun by Thomas Bouchier, Archbishop of Canterbury, in the mid-15th century. It remained a palace for the archbishops until being appropriated by Henry VIII for the Crown. In 1566 Queen Elizabeth I presented the estate to her cousin, Thomas Sackville, whose descendants have lived there ever since. One of these was the famous writer Victoria Sackville-West, whose close friend Virginia Woolf immortalized Knole in her 1928 novel, Orlando.

Sometimes called the “Calendar House,” Knole is said to have 365 rooms, 52 staircases, and seven courtyards. Those parts that are open to the public contain a large number of paintings by various artists, including some good ones by Gainsborough and Reynolds, magnificent tapestries, and furnishings dating from Elizabethan times. The surrounding park covers a thousand acres of pleasant countryside where tame deer roam freely.

Those wanting to visit Ightham Mote (3) can get there by walking the four-mile distance, which is completely over pleasant country lanes, or by returning to Sevenoaks and taking a bus or taxi. If you go by bus, take one that follows route A-25 and get off at Ightham Common, then walk the remaining mile-and-a-half. The map shows the way on foot or by bus.

Hidden away in a secluded spot at the foot of a hill, Ightham Mote (photo, above) has all the appeal expected of a 14th-century fortified and moated manor house. In fact, it is often regarded as the best-preserved medieval house in all of England. It only survived the 17th century Civil War because Cromwell’s armies were unable to find it and so raided another house instead. Ightham had been used as a hiding place for priests during that conflict, making it a target for the Puritans seeking to overthrow the Royalists.

Pronounced as “item moat,” the name is deceptive as “mote” refers not to the moat but is an ancient Saxon word for a council meeting place, or moot. It had long been home to well-known and important people, but never to royalty, and its fortifications were designed to protect against robbers, not armies.

Legend has long told of a woman’s body being hidden inside the walls of Ightham Mote to ward off evil spirits, but a recent reconstruction of the interior found none, only shoes. A visit to this thorough restoration will transport you back in time to the Middle Ages, if only for an hour or so.

To get to Chartwell by public transportation, return to Buckhurst Lane near the Tourist Office in Sevenoaks and take Kent Bus 238 to Westham, a half-hour ride. From there walk 1.5 miles to the estate following Route B-2026, which is signposted. It is also possible to just take a taxi from Sevenoaks. Ask at the Tourist Office for current information.

Driving to Chartwell is easier. Just follow routes A-225, A-224, A-25, and B-2026. The total distance is about 8 miles.

Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965), the revered wartime prime minister of Great Britain, and his wife Clementine bought this estate in 1922 and lived there on and off until his death. Today it is preserved exactly as it was when the Churchills lived there, with extensive displays of memorabilia and original furnishings. If it were not for these historic attractions the property would hardly be worth visiting as, in the words of its present administrator, the National Trust, it is an example of “Victorian architecture at its least attractive, a ponderous red-brick country mansion of tile-hung gables and poky oriel windows.” Nevertheless, for anyone interested in Churchill’s life or World War II history, this is a must-see.

January 30, 2010

This little adventure is taken from my new guidebook Daytrips From London,available now.

Trip 17

Winchester

Winchester wears its history gracefully. The first “capital” of England, it was an important town from Roman times until the 12th century, when it lost out to rival London. Despite this decline, it remained a major religious and educational center, a role it still plays today. There are few places in England where the past has survived to delight the present quite so well.

Winchester's history goes back to the Iron Age, when the Belgae, a Celtic tribe, settled in the valley of the River Itchen. This became the Roman town of Venta Belgarum, the fifth-largest in Britain. Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Anglo-Saxons took over and, changing the name to Wintanceaster, made it the capital of their kingdom of Wessex. Threats from marauding Danes caused the rival kingdoms of England to unite behind Egbert, the king of Wessex, in the mid-9th century; an act that made Winchester the effective capital of all England. A few decades later, under Alfred the Great, the town reached its peak of importance, and afterwards became the seat of such kings as Canute, Edward the Confessor, and William the Conqueror. Winchester's time had passed, however, and during the Norman era the center of power was gradually transferred to London.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave London's Waterloo Station at least twice an hour for the one-hour ride to Winchester, with returns until late evening. Schedules at W: nationalrail.co.uk.

By Car, Winchester is 72 miles southwest of London via the M3 highway.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip can be made at any time, although some sights are closed on Mondays, especially in the off-season. Open-air markets are held in the town center on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T:(01962) 840-500, W: visitwinchester.co.uk, is in the Guildhall on The Broadway. Winchester is the county seat of Hampshire, and has a population of about 33,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Winchester has a wide selection of restaurants and pubs in all price ranges, including:

Royal Oak (Royal Oak Passage, just off High St.) Lunch in an ancient pub with plenty of atmosphere. T: (01962) 842-701. £

Cathedral Refectory (Inner Close, by the Cathedral) Light lunches made from fresh, local ingredients, as well as teas. T: (01962) 857-268, W: winchester-cathedral.org.uk. £

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

From the train station (1), follow Sussex Street to the Westgate (2), one of Winchester's two remaining medieval gatehouses. Built in the 12th century, its upper floors were added in 1380 and later served as a debtors' prison. It is now a small museum with an interesting collection of ancient armor and related objects. There's an excellent view from its roof. T: (01962) 869-864. Open April-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. noon-5; winter, Mon.-Sat. 10-4, Sun. noon-4. Closed holidays, Nov.Jan. Entrance free. Brass rubbings ₤.

Strolling down High Street, you will pass the Old Guildhall on the right. Its projecting clock and figure of Queen Anne were given to the town to commemorate the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. On the roof is a wooden tower housing the curfew bell, still rung each evening at eight. The 16th-century God Begot House, opposite, occupies the site of a manor given by Ethelred the Unready to his Queen Emma in 1012.

A few more steps brings you to the City Cross (3). Also known as the Butter Cross, it was erected in the 15th century. Make a right through the small passageway leading to The Square. William the Conqueror's palace once stood here. The City Museum (4) has fascinating displays of local archaeological finds, including Celtic pottery, a Roman mosaic floor, and painted walls. T: (01962) 863-064, W: winchester.gov.uk/heritage. Open same times as the Westgate, above. Free.

Winchester Cathedral, begun in 1079 on the site of earlier Saxon churches, is among the largest in Europe. During the 14th century the cathedral acquired a new Gothic nave, resulting in a mixture of styles ranging from robust Norman to graceful Perpendicular.

Enter the nave through the west doorway. The windows retain some of the original 14th-century glass, most of which was destroyed by Puritan zealots during the Civil War. About halfway down the nave, on the right, is the magnificent Wykeham's Chantry, dedicated to Bishop William of Wykeham, who was also the founder of Winchester College and New College at Oxford, as well as a noted statesman. Almost opposite this, on the north aisle, is an outstanding 12th-century font, carved with the story of St. Nicholas. The tomb of the authoress Jane Austen is nearby in the north aisle.

The massive transepts are almost unchanged since Norman times. Near the southeast corner is a chapel containing the tomb of Izaak Walton, author of The Compleat Angler, who died here in 1683. A doorway in the south wall leads to the Library, which has a 10th-century copy of the Venerable Bede's Ecclesiastical History as well as the rare 12th-century illuminated Winchester Bible. Library open at variable times.

Continue up the south aisle and enter the Presbytery. Above the screens are six mortuary chests containing the bones of early English kings. Behind the High Altar is a magnificently carved 15th-century ornamental screen. Adjoining this is the choir with some outstanding early-14th-century stalls and misericords. At the east end of the cathedral is the 12th-century Chapel of the Guardian Angels, and the modern Shrine of St. Swithun, the patron saint of British weather. If it rains on his day, July 15th, you're in for another 39 soggy days. Other sights include the crypt and the treasury.

Leave the cathedral and stroll through The Close, partially surrounded by the ancient monastery's walls. An arcade of the former Chapter House links the south transept with the Deanery. Dome Alley has some particularly fine 17th-century houses. Pass through the Kingsgate (6), the second of the two surviving medieval town gates. Above it is the tiny 13th-century Church of St. Swithun-upon-Kingsgate, which should definitely be visited.

Winchester College (7), the oldest “public” school in England, was founded in 1382 and is associated with New College at Oxford. T: (01962) 621-209, W: winchestercollege.org. Tours Mon., Wed., Fri., Sat. at 10:45, noon, 2:15, and 3:30; Tues. & Thurs. at 10:45 & noon; Sun. at 2:15 & 3:30. Adults £4, seniors and students £3.50.

Continue down College Street to the ruins of Wolvesey Castle (8), begun in 1129 and destroyed in 1646 by Cromwell's forces during the Civil War. They are enclosed by part of the old city wall, but you can enter and take a look around. W: english-heritage.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily, 10-5. Free.

The adjacent Wolvesey Palace, thought to have been designed by Sir Christopher Wren, is now the bishop's residence.

From here there is a wonderfully picturesque riverside walk, said to be the inspiration for Keats' poem Ode to Autumn. It leads to the venerable Hospital of St. Cross, the oldest functioning almshouse in England. About a mile away, this medieval institution can also be reached by bus along St. Cross Road, but the delightful stroll along the stream is too lovely to miss. You can always ride back. To get there, just follow the map.

The *Hospital of St. Cross(photo, above)(9) has always had a tradition of providing a dole of bread and ale to weary wayfarers, which includes you. Ask and ye shall receive. Founded in 1136 by Bishop Henry de Blois, grandson of William the Conqueror, the institution cares for 25 brethren who live in 15th-century quarters and wear medieval gowns. There is a 12th-century Norman chapel and a 15th-century hall and kitchen that can be visited. Don’t miss this. T: (01962) 851-375, W: stcrosshospital.co.uk. Open Apr.-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9:30-5, Sun. 1-5; Nov.-March, Mon.-Sat. 10:30-3:30. Adults £3, seniors and students £2.50, children £1.

Those returning on foot can take the alternative route via Garnier Road. St. Catherine's Hill, across the river, has an Iron Age fort and the foundations of an early chapel at its summit, as well as an excellent view.

Back in Winchester, the footpath leads across the River Itchen alongside the medieval walls to the City Mill (10), part of which is now a youth hostel. There's been a mill here since Anglo-Saxon days. The present one, built in 1744, may be explored. T: (01962) 870-057, W: nationaltrust.org.uk/main/winchestercitymill. Open mid-March to late Oct., Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5; late Oct.-mid-March, daily 10:30-5. Adults £4, children £2.

Turn left and follow The Broadway past the statue of King Alfred, who made Winchester a center of learning over a thousand years ago. The huge Victorian Guildhall of 1873 houses the tourist office. From here, High Street leads to The Castle, an administrative complex that includes the Great Hall (11), the sole remaining part of Winchester Castle. Dating from the early 13th century, the hall was the scene of many important events in English history. Go inside and take a look at the famous Roundtable, once associated with King Arthur but now known to be of 13th-century origin. T: (01962) 846-476, W: hants.gov.uk/greathall/. Open daily 10-5, closing at 4 on winter weekends. 50p.

There are five military museums in the immediate vicinity that might interest you: the Royal Green Jackets, the Light Infantry, the Gurkha, the Royal Hussars, and the Royal Hampshire Regiment. From here it is only a short stroll back to the train station.