Company Profile no. 9 - City of Cambridge Brewery

As late as 1950 five breweries were operating in Cambridge but when Tolly
Cobbold closed the Star Brewery, Newmarket Road, in 1972, the city's brewing
traditions seemed to have reached the end. Since then, two in-pub breweries have
opened - the Ancient Druids in 1984 and the Fresher and Firkin in 1996. Both
are temporarily out of commission. Neither however supplied beer beyond their
respective pubs, so commercial brewing remained dead - until May 1997.

The City of Cambridge Brewery opened that month, its first customer being
CAMRA's own Beer Festival. The men behind the venture are Don Graves and Steve
Draper, both with years of experience in the sales and marketing area of the
trade. Don was with Tolly before starting his own agency, the Cambridge Beer
Company. Steve has worked for Greene King, Eldridge Pope and Ruddles.

The brewery occupies an industrial unit in Cheddars Lane. The neat 5-barrel
plant was designed by brewing guru Rob Jones who has also helped with the
recipe for the beer, Hobsons Choice. This is a superbly balanced golden ale with
a 4.1% ABV. It has a full-bodied, moreish flavour and a slightly bitter finish
which doesn't outstay its welcome. The quality of the ale was proven when Beer
Festival customers voted it Beer of the Festival ahead of 90 other brews. The
original order sold out by the Wednesday, prompting an urgent reorder.

City of Cambridge are proud of the quality ingredients they use. The main malt
is Pipkin - proper "floor" malt from Warminster - plus a little caramalt. The
new dwarf hop, First Gold, has been employed and this is responsible for the
lovely light colour. Brewing currently takes place twice a week with the beer
being kept back for six days before delivery to allow it to mature.

Steve and Don are extremely anxious to ensure that their beer is given the
treatment it deserves, hence their reluctance to use beer agencies. Instead
they aim to make all their own deliveries which necessarily means that trade is
essentially local. Among the outlets so far have been the Cow and Calf;
Cambridge Blue; Fountain, Ely; Waggon and Horses, Milton; Queens Head, Sawston;
Bees-in-the-Wall, Whittlesford. The paucity of genuine free houses in the
Cambridge area is bound to make life a little difficult for the new venture, so
it's a good job that Don and Steve know what selling is all about.

Looking ahead there are plans for two more beers:
a strong ale, Atomsplitter, and a mild.
CAMRA wishes the City of Cambridge Brewery every success, not just for
re-establishing brewing in the city after a 25 year gap, but because the product
represents real ale as it ought to be.