Me: Brandon, I’d be happy to dye a gi for you. What color are you thinking?

Brandon: Can you do green?

Me: Sure. {pulls Dharma Trading up on my Droid} Which one do you like?

Brandon: I like Bright Green.

Me: Well… that’s pretty bright. It’s going to be as green as Bing’s gi is Orange. You want it that bright?

Brandon: Well, I want it bright.

Me: How about one shade darker? Let’s go with Kelly Green.

And that’s how we ended up here:

PR66 aka Kelly Green.

Above is the gi before going into the dye vat.

Here it is after a rinse cycle in the washer. It’s still wet and has a lot of excess dye, so it’s a little darker than it will be once it’s dry.

Washed twice, but still wet. All of the rogue color is gone, so this is pretty close to the final color. It will still get a little lighter once it’s dry, but I think it’s pretty close to spot on according to the color chip below.

And here’s the final product. I hope Brandon likes it. The color turned out close to flawless. It’s very even, and I can’t see any imperfections. He was very specific about wanting a really bright green, so I think he’s going to be very happy. I put my belt on there to provide a little context, so you can see that the color is pretty accurate.

What do you think?

And if you’re interested in doing your own projects, please take a look at my step by step guide.

I’ve dyed several BJJ gis and while the process is pretty simple, I’ve learned a few things each time that make it a little easier and improve the final product. I’ve posted pictures and such in the past, and even though Georgette has posted a great instructional on her blog, I still get asked about this a lot.

First, there are instructions available on Dharma Trading’s site that are great. I’m not a pro and don’t make money off of this, so what follows may not be the “right” way to do it. It’s simply the way I’ve found that results in a pretty good looking, even color that won’t fade or bleed.

So, here goes. My practical guide to dying a BJJ gi:

What You Need:

I’ve broken out the materials you’ll need to do a good job into three categories: required, recommended and optional. It’s a pretty long list, but don’t be intimidated. Most of it can be purchased from Dharma Trading, found easily at stores around you or you probably already have them. Also, once you have a lot of the gear, you don’t need to replace it.

Required:

1: A BJJ Gi. The weight of each gi is a little different. Rather than getting too anal about things, I just figure 4 lbs per gi. This helps me figure out how much of each ingredient to use.

2: High quality Fiber Reactive Dye. I used Procion MX, purchased from Dharma Trading. How much you’ll need is going to depend on the color and the weight of the gi. On a 4 lbs gi, most colors will need 4 Tbsp of dye (which is about 2 oz). For some colors, you will need to double or quadruple that amount.

3: Non-Iodized salt: You’re going to need a lot of salt, about 12 cups for a 4 lbs gi (twice that if you’re doing black). You can get a large bag of it at Sam’s Club or Costco for next to nothing. Otherwise, you’ll look a little funny loading up the grocery cart. Just tell them you’re brining a deer or something.

4: Soda Ash: You’ll need 1 1/2 cups for a 4 lbs gi. This is absolutely critical. Don’t skip this. The soda ash fixes the color. If you’re going to the trouble to dye your gi, make sure that you fix the dye so that your gi won’t fade and the colors don’t bleed.

TIP:

You can order it from Dharma if you want to, but it’s heavy and will cost a ton to ship ($5.95 for 5 lbs of Soda Ash costs almost $13 to ship.)

Soda Ash is also called Washing Soda or Sodium Carbonate (NOT the same thing as Sodium Bicarbonate). It is used to condition water and in home-made laundry soaps. So, look for it in pool/hot tub supply stores or in a pinch, at the grocery store in the laundry aisle. Don’t pay more than around $1 per lbs. This stuff should be cheap and you’re not going to get any better results buying a brand name.

I saw a 5 lbs container of “premium” Sodium Carbonate for $26 at a pool store. What a rip off.

5: A large plastic bin: Once again, the size is going to depend on how much you’re dying. You’re going to need 3 gallon of water per lbs of fabric, so a 4 lbs gi will need 12 gallons of water (and don’t forget displacement). An 18 gallon tub is perfect for one gi, but I have a 45 gallon bin I use for big jobs, like doing multiple gis at one time. And conveniently, when I’m not dying a gi, everything fits in the tub so that I can store it in the garage, out of the way.

6: Measuring cup, plastic scrapers, plastic mixing/measuring bowls and spoons: You can buy new ones or do what I did… just shrug and mumble a little when asked, “Where the hell are all my measuring cups?”

7: Damage Control Rags: Two or three rags or towels you don’t mind getting dye on.

Recommended:

1: Synthrapol or an equivalent: Pre-washing the gi is important to get oils, softeners and other chemicals out of the fabric that might prevent the dye from getting into the fabric evenly.

2: Calsolene Oil: I use 3 Tbs. The Calsolene Oil helps break the surface tension in the water.

3: Gloves: To keep you from looking like Ed Harris in the Abyss. I tried using the big, dishwashing gloves, but frankly, they’re a pain in the butt to take off and put on. So, I just use disposable non-latex gloves. You can buy a huge box of them at Costco.

4: A Big Stick: For mixing and waving around when you get bored.

5: A fine mesh strainer with a handle (for the soda ash).

Optional:

1: Urea: This can help the dye dissolve. If you’re doing anything red, or if you’re concerned about mixing the dye completely, use this stuff.

2: Milsoft: This is a pro grade fabric softener and damn, does it work.

3: A spray handle attachment to the shower: Being able to hold the showerhead in your hand is… well, handy. It helps when filling the bin and also makes cleaning up much easier.

How to do it:

Okay. You have your materials together and you’re ready to go. Next, think about your space. I use the bathtub in the downstairs bathroom. My wife would kill me if I stained or damaged anything in house, particularly in a “public area.” So… wait for him or her to leave and then get started.

I strongly recommend that you remove any towels or cotton, decorative shower curtains and keep him or her away from the room until you’ve cleaned up. Seriously. My wife had (past tense) a nice, white, decorative shower curtain with a separate plastic liner. “I’ll be careful,” I thought. This also goes for any bath mats and basically anything else that might take the dye.

Replace the nice towels you like with the ones you don’t and then if there’s a spill or something, you can wipe it up without drama. These are item 7 on the “required” list.

Step 1: Wash the gi. I appreciate when I get clean gis, but you should still wash them. Use the Synthrapol with no fabric softener. It doesn’t smell great, but that’s the point. No perfumes or other crap that could screw up your work. You can dry it or not. I typically don’t, but it’s no big deal either way (that I’ve seen).

Step 2: Mix the dye. If you are using urea, put a heaping Tbs into about a cup of warm (not hot) water and mix it to dissolve it. Next, mix warm water (or the urea mix) into the dye powder. I do a little at a time until I get a paste and then add a little more.

TIP:

Try using a Blender Bottle (or something like it.) These are containers commonly used to mix/drink protein shakes. They have a little metal ball inside them which is designed to break up the clumps. They work great for mixing dye and will minimize the amount of dye powder you breathe.

CAUTION:

I’ve heard that people can develop a sensitivity over time to the dye powder, which is very fine. If you’re sensitive to chemicals or want to be careful, consider wearing a mask or something for this part.

Step 3: Dissolve the salt. I put the vat directly into the tub, so that spills go there and not on the floor (if you’re lucky). In your dye vat (the 18 gallon tub), put in about 12 gallons of lukewarm water and dissolve the salt into it. I use my arm to mix the salt. That way I can feel the salt in the bottom of the bin to make sure that it’s completely dissolved. Don’t be a weenie. It’s just warm, salt water.

Step 4: Add the dye mixture. This should be a piece of cake, as it’s completely dissolved from Step 3. Just dump it in and swish it around to make sure it’s good and mixed up. This is also the time to add the Calsolene Oil, if you choose to use it. I usually do.

Step 5:Add the fabric and settle in for about 20 or so minutes. Set a timer so you don’t have to guess. I usually swirl it around, pick it up and make sure that the folds and creases all get worked out so that it dyes evenly.

TIP:

Set up your laptop, tablet or smart phone somewhere in the bathroom where it’s well away from water, but visible from where you’ll be sitting. Do this BEFORE you get started and put on a good, long BJJ related video and just let it run in the background. You won’t want to touch it after you get the gloves on, and it will keep you happy while you’re agitating the fabric. You’re going to be stirring regularly for about 1 1/2 hours, so plan accordingly.

Step 6: Soda Ash/Sodium Carbonate. Dissolve the soda ash into some warm water. Use your stick to move the gi over to once side of the vat and then pour the soda ash a little at a time into the dye bath. Don’t pour the soda ash directly onto the fabric, or you’ll get spots. Also, take your time. Do this over about 10 or 15 minutes, a little at a time. Be careful with this part, because the soda ash generates a lot of heat when it’s dissolving. You don’t want clumps here, either. I use the fine mesh strainer as I pour it into the vat to make sure no clumps get into my vat.

Step 7: Settle in again. Agitate and keep the gi moving pretty often over about 30 minutes. Dharma recommends up to 1 hour for deep colors, but I’ve never done it for that long.

I don’t know about you, but at this point, I’m tired of stirring and this is where I’m tempted to rush things along. Resist the temptation. Remember, the soda ash, among other things, fixes the dye. Give it a full 30 minutes, at least.

So, just relax and watch the video you’ve got playing. I prefer tournament footage over instructional videos. What about you?

Step 8: Clean up. The dye isn’t harmful to the environment and since my vat is in the tub already, I just pour it directly down the drain (pictured left). I would recommend not allowing anyone to see the tub in this condition.

Don’t panic! Because you used good dye, it won’t stain and washes right up. Seriously. A quick wash and rinse and it’s like it never happened.

Step 9: Wash the Gi. Okay. Here’s my method. First, I put the gi through a rinse cycle just to get out as much of the excess dye as I can. After the rinse, I wash it with Synthrapol.

Dayum. This gi is really, really cool. Evan Mannweiler’s design was the overall winner of the Crazy Ass Gi Contest a few months back, and it’s now being manufactured in a limited run. So, check it out. I ordered mine.

Click on the image above to go to Tatamifightwear’s website or use the direct link below:

The contest is over and the winners have been announced. I would wear the winning gi and hope that it goes into production. It’s cool. Very, very cool. Winners also announced for “Funniest” and “Craziest” gi designs.

Brits, for some reason, seem to be among the most prolific BJJ bloggers around. Between Seymour over at Meerkatsu, Matt with Grappling Dummy and Scramble, and Can and his Slideyfoot blog, it’s easy to keep up with what’s going on over in the UK. So, when I saw pics and reviews of a new gi being produced by Tatami Fightwear, I was jealous. I thought that a company producing gear for Europe would be pretty well inaccessible here in the States. By the time it gets shipped and all of that, it just wouldn’t be worth it. Turns out, I was wrong.

This review is intended to supplement, but in no way replace Meerkatsu’s excellent review, so for more information be sure to check out his blog.

Disclaimer: I purchased this gi from Tatami Fightwear at a discount specifically for review. I’m not currently sponsored by them and this review is a reflection of my own opinions of the gi.

The Zero G Gi is available in both men’s and women’s sizes. The model I purchased is available for £63, which, at the time I’m writing this review, is about $78.27. Shipping is going to run between $20 and $30 for a gi. Again, it just really depends on the exchange rate at the time.

A cool feature of the Tatami Fightwear website is that it can automatically convert the currency, so there’s no question how much you’re spending, whether it’s Euros, Pounds or US Dollars. Just click on the currency symbol in the top left corner of the page and all prices, including your shopping cart are converted for you.

General Impressions:

The gi is VERY lightweight. The entire gi weighs just a hair over 3 lbs. This gi is manufactured in Pakistan for the Tatami Fightwear company.

When I pulled it out of the package, the first thing that jumped out at me was the flair. The patches are a bright blue, and stand out from the crowd. The second thing I noticed was how light the pants are. They’re very soft and light, like pajama pants (no kidding). The first time I wore the gi, it got a lot of attention. In a group of guys wearing Bad Boys, Atamas, Gameness, Venum and the rest of the current group of lighter weight gis, the blue patches and other graphics really made the Tatami Zero G stand out, without, IMO, being too loud.

Weight and Fit:

I’m 5’10” tall and about 185 lbs. I have a long torso and short legs (30” inseam). I have a wingspan of approximately 72”.

Most gi manufacturers recommend washing their products in cold water and line drying. This might work well in a place like Brazil, where the sun is hot and the UV rays will kill the bacteria. In Seattle, that just doesn’t work. I don’t like stinky clothes so I try to purchase gis big, anticipating greater than normal shrinkage. I wash my gis every time the same way. I wash in warm water, cold rinse, and dry them completely in a very hot dryer. I purchase the gis specifically anticipating maximum shrinkage, so with only a very few exceptions, I tend to buy an A3 for my size.

According to the Tatami size and fit chart, an A3 will fit a guy 5’10” to 6’ tall and between 193 and 220 lbs. This is true. I’ve been burned buying A2s in the past, but in this case, an A2 would fit me perfectly. Ultimately, the A3 Tatami Zero G was too big for me.

One of my teammates is a big guy. He’s about 5’11” and weighs about 210 lbs, and this gi fits him perfectly after multiple washings.

Pre-Wash (Inches)

Post-Wash (Inches)

A

69

66

B

32.5

30

C

23

22

D

7

6 3/4

E

39

35 1/2

F

9 1/2

9

G

29

26

Jackets:

The weave is pretty typical of what you’ll find with other gis in this family. It’s a light, but sturdy weave that holds up well to the rigors of grappling and grip fighting.

For me, the fit of the A3 was big. As I said before, I didn’t trust the size chart… but I should have. At my size, an A2 would be a good fit.

The cuffs are well reinforced and sturdy with what looks like heavy canvas stripping. It’s a finishing touch that wasn’t common a few years ago, but is pretty much standard any more.

The jacket has a tapered cut, and looks sharp.

Patches and stitching are dominated by a blue color scheme. The location and size of the patches is pretty standard, but the motif makes this gi stand out from the crowd.

Pictures of the various patches and embroidery are below.

Pants/Trousers:

The pants are super light, reminiscent of SYR pants. They’re soft cotton and feature some of the blue zero G patches. My only reservation about the entire gi is that I wonder if the pants are too light. These will certainly work well for competition, but I’m not sure how long these will hold up in steady training. To me, this isn’t a quality issue as much as it’s an unavoidable trade off between lightweight design and sturdiness. Something’s got to give.

And just to be clear, I’m not saying that these pants won’t hold up. I am, however, curious about it. It’s really the only question mark I can see and something that can only be answered over time. I’ll tell you what, though. As long as they last, they are very, very comfortable.

The drawstring is a stretchy rope material, which doesn’t get bunched. up. There are two loops to keep it in place. The stretchiness of the rope is something I’ve not seen before. It actually works really well, and keeps the pants from getting loose while rolling.

The knees are reinforced but the cuffs aren’t given a lot of attention. Once again, the pants are lightweight and built to be so, rather than for durability.

Below are some pictures of the patches that can be found on the pants.

Conclusion:

Overall: 4 out of 5

The gi is sharp and light. If you’re looking for a quality, competition gi, this one will definitely fit the bill. This is particularly true if you’re competing at tournaments that require you to weigh in while wearing your gi, such as at IBJJF tournaments.

Design: 5 out of 5

The look and feel is terrific. This is a good looking gi that’s tailored well. It’s going to get some attention, without being as overt as other gis that are all flaired out.

Durability: 3 out of 5

At this point, this is really a question mark for me. The jacket is well made and looks to be on par with many much more expensive kimonos. The pants are really what I don’t know about and why I gave the Zero G a 3 in this category. Ultimately, it’s about weight and cut and being IBJJF legal, and this gi does those things. If you’re looking at something that’s going to hold up to day to day training, I might look at one of the other models offered by Tatami or elsewhere.

Value: 4 out of 5

Again, if you’re looking for a competition gi that’s super light, looks good and is legal at IBJJF competitions, this is a great deal. If you live in the States, it’s going to cost you a little more for shipping, which is the only reason I couldn’t give this gi a 5 in this category. But 4 is very, very good, and at approximately $110 including delivery, this gi is a very good deal.

I purchased a Gameness Feather gi from Budovideos last week and like it quite a lot. My favorite gi over the years has been the Gameness Pearl, so I was pretty sure I’d like this gi. Of course, I didn’t know when I bought it that Budovideos was going to offer 15% off with a Mundials coupon code. So, I took that as a sign that I should also buy the Vulkan Pro Light gi I’ve been wanting.

The Gameness Feather is a light gi very much like all of the others on the market right now. It seems to be well made, with ripstop pants and a light but sturdy top. I wasn’t a big fan of the front patch, but after ordering the Vulkan, I thought I’d go ahead and dye the gi to see how it turned out. I used Wedgewood Blue that I bought from Dharma Trading a while back.

I really like how it turned out and I was pleasantly surprised at how the front patch took the dye. The white around the Gameness script pops, but the patch as a whole took the color. Otherwise, the gi dyed a nice, even color and I’m looking forward to wearing it to class.

While dying the gi, I was watching the Mundial coverage from Budovideos on my netbook. Good job, guys. Switching the cameras was great, and the mix of matches was much better than last time. I’m really looking forward to tomorrow and the finals.

If you haven’t watched it yet, you’re still in luck. Beginning tomorrow morning at 9am Pacific, you can watch live, streaming coverage of the Mundial finals. During the finals, they go down from 10 mats to just one, so the coverage should be comprehensive. I’m really looking forward to it.

A few weeks back, I heard from Douglas at Razorback Jiu Jitsu. He had some gold weave gis made to order and was going to be selling them for well below what you’d expect to pay for a BJJ gi, currently only $65 (no that’s not a typo). He asked me if I’d be interested in reviewing one and, of course, I was more than happy to oblige.

I got the gi in the mail and tried it on. It’s not pre-shrunk and the only adornment are two patches on the sleeves: the US flag on one shoulder and the Brazilian flag on the other. I received an A4, which is listed as fitting guys between 6′ and 6’4, 200 to 250 lbs. Of course, at 5’10” and ~185 lbs, I was swimming in it. But after I washed it twice in hot water, it shrunk up nicely.

The Razorback Gold Weave Gi

My first impressions on opening up the package are pretty good. The gi is pretty light and looks well made. The pants are a little thinner than what you’ll find from a high end gi, but are reinforced at all the right spots. The top is made from a sturdy, gold weave fabric.

Inside Seams of Gi

This gi, as you can see, is made from a three piece top. While all of the seams look sturdy and are reinforced at all of the stress points, this does separate this gi from some of the more expensive models available. Top tier BJJ kimonos are made from a single piece of fabric for comfort and durability. Seams in the fabric can be a potential tearing point. Also, a seam down the back can be uncomfortable if you’re working from the bottom in guard. On the mat, I didn’t notice the seam at all.

The fit is roomy, cut with a little more space than some BJJ gis I’ve owned. What I mean is, the sleeves are a little roomier, and the pants don’t have that tailored cut that some of the other brands sport. On the spectrum of gis I’ve owned, this gi fits much like my Atama #7 and the Padilla and Sons gold weave gis. Another one that comes to mind is the Gameness single weave gi.

Back of the Gi

Some Ratings:

Value: 5 out of 5.

This is a better than student grade gi. In quality, it’s compares very favorably to an HCK single weave at $80 or the Gameness Single Weave at $78 in quality. If you’re considering purchasing your first BJJ gi, a solid backup or an inexpensive replacement, I highly recommend this gi. As of this review, Douglas is selling these gis for $65 each. That’s a steal for a gold weave BJJ kimono.

Fit: 3.5 out of 5

The fit is baggier than I like. I prefer to have a more tailored cut to my gis and feel like I’m swimming in this top. The pants are also pretty baggy. This is largely a matter of preference, though. If you’re a bigger dude, or if you prefer something closer in fit to a Judo gi, this will be ideal for you. I’ll qualify this by saying that I’ve only washed this gi three times and it’s not pre-shrunk, so I expect that it will shrink a bit more.

Provided you purchase a gi that fits you correctly, this one will have no problems meeting IBJJF specs for fit and construction. Before you buy, I would recommend shooting an email to Douglas to find out from him what size he recommends. I wash my gis in warm/hot water and machine dry them, so I expect a little more shrinkage than others might.

Durability: 3 out of 5

I’m giving this gi a 3 for durability, but this was a tough one and I honestly kept waffling between 2.5 and 3.

Pros: All of the stress points are well reinforced and the stitching looks solid. The gold weave fabric is nice and looks strong.

Cons: The pants are a little thin and the jacket is constructed from three panels of fabric, resulting in seams along the middle and down the back.

While this gi clearly won’t last as long as a more expensive gi, it’s selling for $65. Comparing it to others in the same “class” of gi (which are all more expensive), such as the Gameness Single Weave, I’d say this is as well made and the gold weave fabric is sturdier. I wouldn’t be surprised if the jacket outlasts the pants.

One of the things I really like about BJJ is the very loose idea of what is acceptable attire. I’m not a very fashionable guy, but for whatever reason, I like buying new gis. I like looking at the different styles that are out there, and checking out what everyone has going on.

The following article is primarily for any of my friends out there who either don’t train in martial arts or who train, perhaps, in some other style and are curious about what differences exist.

What is a gi?

When most people think of a gi, they think of karate, and probably something very much like the outfit pictured to the left. A gi is simply a uniform made for training, most often made from a strong cotton weave varying from 8 oz up to some as thick as 30 oz.

Grappling arts tend to have sturdier gis made from thicker material, even at the student grade. Rolling around, grip fighting and the constant pushing and pulling will destroy an 8 oz gi very quickly. So, while you may find student quality Karate gis as light as 8 oz, the typical student grade Grappling gi, such as the Howard Combat Kimonos Single weave, will be 14 oz or more, with durable, reinforced pants.

Grappling uniforms will be reinforced at all of the stress points and will often include extra padding at areas prone to failure. This includes the collars, along the knees of the pants, in the crotch and places like that. For a detailed look at the different stress points, I would recommend reading this review of the Padilla and Sons Gi over on SmashPass. It’s a good review, but for the purposes of this article, Jason goes into detail about what he looks for in a quality BJJ gi.

What about the weave?

Single vs Double weave refers to the actual fabric. A single weave gi is going to be thinner than a double weave gi, and while it won’t be as long last, it will definitely be more comfortable during the Summer. Double weave gis are more expensive, heavier and hotter to train in. At the same time, they are desirable in competition because the collars are difficult to grip and hold. I know that, for me, it’s rough on the fingers working for lapel chokes or grips when sparring with some of the guys who have double weave gis at my school.

In BJJ, you’ll also see something called Gold Weave, which is as far as I can tell the most common and popular weave among Jiu-Jitiero. The Gold Weave is sturdy and thick, like a doubleweave gi, which makes it harder to grip and hold, as well as being durable. At the same time, it’s lighter than the doubleweave, making it more comfortable to wear.

And then, of course, you have the proprietary weaves. Gameness has the Platinum Weave gi, as well as a super light “Pearl” weave. Lucky Gis, by far the most expensive gi I’ve seen on the market, includes the development of their own weave, too. I listened to the TheFightworksPodcastepisode #102, all about the adventures of producing the Lucky Gi and was amazed at the lengths gone to.

What makes a BJJ gi a BJJ gi?

There are some fundamental differences between the BJJ gi and other gis. Judo is a very close cousin to BJJ. Both are sporting derivatives of Kano’s original version of Judo, which was itself derived from traditional jujutsu in Japan.

The Judo Gi tends to be made from thick material available in either a single weave or double weave. Sizing and condition of the Gi will, of course, vary from organization to organization, but the IJF publishes these guidelines (linked from judoinfo.com).

The fit of the judo gi tends to be baggier all around. The apron of the Judo Gi is often woven in a diamond pattern and hangs longer, as shown. The pants and sleeves are often looser as well.

BJJ gis, in contrast, tend to be more form fitting. The apron part of the gi is often shorter, and the sleeves and pant legs are tighter, although there are guidelines for how tight these can be in competition.

The picture to the right is of the official CBJJ gi checker tool. This tool is what is used to make sure that the gi is not too tight or too short in the sleeves or trouser legs for competition.

In Judo, patches are allowed only on the back of the uniform in competition, and there are rules regarding what these can be and how large, and the only two legal colors in competition are blue or white. I’ve only ever seen Judo Gis available in these two colors and in black, although there may be others.

In competition, the official gi colors for BJJ are white, blue or black, although it’s not uncommon to see any number of different colors in class or in local competitions. Red is a relatively common color, with Army Green, Browns and even some pink sneaking into the women’s classes. I’ve also seen available Gis in Yellow and other colors although never in real life.

Patches are also not uncommon, but believe it or not, there are rules here as well. You can see that there are guidelines outlined by the IBJJF about where and how the patches can be configured on one’s uniform.

The patches can be advertisements from sponsors, but are just as often representations of the gi manufacturer or the school in which the competitor trains or is affiliated with.

There are guys who train at my school who wear simple, white BJJ kimonos, such as the HCK single. Very plain and unadorned, and this appeals to a lot of people. There are others who have some pretty darned exotic ones, from one female who trains in hot pink, to black, white, blue and army green. Each brand marks their gis in different ways, some with embroidery and others with patches. My Gameness Platinum Weave does both. I have a Koral MKM that is all patched up, too. What I like about BJJ is that both personality types fit right in.