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No personal experience myself but I remember reading threads from the past that the 3 and 4" have a weak spot and breaks where the bottom connects to the blades. 422 has the small one for urinals and says it great for that. Personally I think a ridgid 4 bladed cutter works just great on urinal lines as well.

No personal experience myself but I remember reading threads from the past that the 3 and 4" have a weak spot and breaks where the bottom connects to the blades. 422 has the small one for urinals and says it great for that. Personally I think a ridgid 4 bladed cutter works just great on urinal lines as well.

I like that 4 blade cutter ridgid makes also. The connector on the Clog Chopper does look like a weak point for sure. Guess I'll pass on it.

Comment

I have the 3" clog chopper and when I know its a soft blockage of paper or grease....I put that on with the spring leader and usually it get flow on the first pass.....I don't feel I wasted money on it.....now the 4" I used once and the pointy tip unscrewed off!!! I got my money back on that one and it probably is a waste....

Poor Planning On Your Part Does Not Constitute An Emergency On My Part!! You can fire me...but you can't tell me what to do!Derek

I have the 3" clog chopper and when I know its a soft blockage of paper or grease....I put that on with the spring leader and usually it get flow on the first pass.....I don't feel I wasted money on it.....now the 4" I used once and the pointy tip unscrewed off!!! I got my money back on that one and it probably is a waste....

Are those the actual measurements or are they undersized like the rest of their bits ? What size lines are you using the 3" on ? Is it your final pass/bit used on that line ?

you you need to get the spiral root saw by general that's the best cutter out there.

Rick.

How does that long 4RSB do negotiating 4" cast 90's, I bet not very good ? I've been hung up really bad twice with my 1.25" cable and both times were with the Eel 4" spiral root saw on 4" risers/90's under the street. None of my root saws are very good for negotiating corners. The best would be the General 4HDB because it's the shortest in length.

Just this last Sunday I was stuck in a riser just over 90' out. Luckily the owner owns a roofing company and Monday morning he sent 4 of his strong boys out to help me pull the cable out. Didn't think it was going to give it flexed around 10' before we started letting it slowly return in the sewer (to regroup and give it another try) and when it was around half way back it quickly snapped loose. I thought it had broke but all was good it all came back unharmed.

How does that long 4RSB do negotiating 4" cast 90's, I bet not very good ? I've been hung up really bad twice with my 1.25" cable and both times were with the Eel 4" spiral root saw on 4" risers/90's under the street. None of my root saws are very good for negotiating corners. The best would be the General 4HDB because it's the shortest in length.

Just this last Sunday I was stuck in a riser just over 90' out. Luckily the owner owns a roofing company and Monday morning he sent 4 of his strong boys out to help me pull the cable out. Didn't think it was going to give it flexed around 10' before we started letting it slowly return in the sewer (to regroup and give it another try) and when it was around half way back it quickly snapped loose. I thought it had broke but all was good it all came back unharmed.

Actually the 4" hd blade would be worse as its more of a hole saw and doesn't have any play.

The standard 4" spiral saw is the best as it has more of a running spiral and will navigate the 4" bends. Its designed as a double blade side by side. Although I usually run just 1 saw blade. Forward cuts and reverse tears and rips.

Use my 3" or 4" as my first cutter everytime in a 3" or 4" cleanout. 2" and smaller get my reverse auger.

I agree with rick about the lighter duty spiral root saws. The eel root cutters, general HD root saws, and ridgid HD spiral saw cutters are only good if you are rodding a straight run. They don't negotiate elbows well and god help you if you get it stuck in a piece of clay pipe that is offset at the joint.

The Ridgid T-23 is the best 4" cutter I have. It cuts well on the way out and on the way back in due to the teeth on both sides of the blade. Like rick said, rips and tears really nice in reverse too. The T-23 is a thinner blade than the HD cutters and negotiates elbows and offset pipe very well as it has a bit of "flex" to it from being a thinner metal. The downside is that the wear out a LOT faster than the HD cutters.

I use the Electric Eel spiral root saw all the time with not much issues at all. Will go through most bends and never gets stuck. I'm refering to the HDD-3S spiral root saw. I don't use there "finish" root saw, A-14DC as that cutter will get you stuck 50% of the time....

AT,
Do you have there 12" flexible spring leader? It's not in the catalog, but it is just like the flexible spearhead they make, but you can just any cutter on it you want.

I use the Electric Eel spiral root saw all the time with not much issues at all. Will go through most bends and never gets stuck. I'm refering to the HDD-3S spiral root saw. I don't use there "finish" root saw, A-14DC as that cutter will get you stuck 50% of the time....

AT,
Do you have there 12" flexible spring leader? It's not in the catalog, but it is just like the flexible spearhead they make, but you can just any cutter on it you want.

Actually the 4" hd blade would be worse as its more of a hole saw and doesn't have any play.

The standard 4" spiral saw is the best as it has more of a running spiral and will navigate the 4" bends. Its designed as a double blade side by side. Although I usually run just 1 saw blade. Forward cuts and reverse tears and rips.

Use my 3" or 4" as my first cutter everytime in a 3" or 4" cleanout. 2" and smaller get my reverse auger.

Rick.

It's on the list for my next order I'll let you know what I think of it.