Honeymoon #2 - Great Divide Route

Sunday, February 27, 2011

If you recall the Fourth of July adventure we had in Lincoln, Montana, you might remember the rodeo that we went to on Saturday. The main event was the Ring of Fire, a gladiator competition of sorts, that involved about eight men standing in a ring in the middle of the arena as a pissed off bull tried to destroy each of them. The last man standing in the white ring was declared the winner and split the pot of money with the equally deranged person from the audience who bid on them to be the winner.

Nate captured this video of what might be the closest thing our society will ever witness that mimics what the Romans did 2,000 years ago with gladiators and wild animals:

After the high desert of Wyoming, riding through Aspen Alley was one of the most refreshing parts of the last section of the ride. This is a video of Brian and I riding through the canopy of trees in the early morning. The sound of aspen leaves quaking is quite peaceful and also something I enjoy about being out west. We certainly don't have aspens in abundance like Colorado does.

Of all the animals that we encountered on the Great Divide Route, the cows were the most baffling. They're giant beasts with seemingly no interest in anything other than eating, pooping, and sleeping. They were fun to talk/yell to while riding, and I mentioned before that there was a somewhat false sense of security when they were around because we believed that there were no bears nearby. This, of course, is completely erroneous considering there were accounts of some grizzly bear "Cow Killer" in McCoy's book. I can't remember where this was, but this griz was responsible for the slaying of numerous cows during its reign.

Anyway, this video was taken on the day we did the near 70 miles through the Great Basin in Wyoming. The best part is that there is a bull in the front of the herd, but it, too, was frightened off by Brian's trailer and our bells. FYI: Nate isn't flipping off the cows; he's flashing his "bull horns" in an attempt to let the cows know who was boss.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

It's been about seven months since our trip ended, and I still find myself remembering various parts of the GDR. I actually read through this whole blog last weekend, smiling the whole time as I recalled the epic adventures that we had. I often will say something to Nate like, "Remember when we rode through the Basin during the night?" or "What was the name of that town where we had that ridiculous burger served by the tweakers?"

We must be in some sort of a reminiscing mood tonight because Nate and I were talking about all the incredible music that we listened to while we were in high school (Smashing Pumpkins, Nirvana, Green Day, Pearl Jam). We even put in Siamese Dream by the Smashing Pumpkins as we went out for ice cream and drove around West Allis in the snow. That somehow turned into watching all the videos that we took on the Great Divide Route, and I've decided that there are lots of snippets of the trip that never made it into this blog. So, I'm going to do a number of posts that are from the vault... Enjoy.

Friday, August 13, 2010

The journey is complete, even though we didn't finish the official GDR. We ended our trip in Estes Park, Colorado, home to Eagle Rock School, a high school where I did an internship about seven years ago. It was a great place to end the trip, and it was closer to Minnesota than southern Colorado, making it easier on my mom when she came and picked us up. She also loves camping, so we were able to bounce into Rocky Mountain National Park for a couple of nights and do some car camping. It was pretty nice to not have to strategically pack up our stuff on the bikes when we left; we just threw it into the car.

It's interesting being back home...we arrived on Tuesday afternoon and within five minutes of being here, Nate said, "Let's get rid of the couch."

So we did.

We put it outside on the street this morning and someone came by and took it to its new home. Our apartment is tiny, but after living with only 30 pounds of gear and 30 pounds of bike for nearly two months, all of our possessions here at home seem rather excessive. I feel like scouring the entire place and donating at least half of what we own to Goodwill. It's a good thing that there are about two weeks left until school starts back up again, so this actually may happen.

I went for a road bike ride last night because I was getting antsy being indoors. The humidity here is incredibly unbearable, but I went for about 25 minutes. I felt like I was on a toy bicycle--very unsteady and feeling like I was way, way too big for the bike. Like I said a few months ago, the Fargo feels like I'm riding a tank, so my Specialized Allez felt flimsy. But it was nice to get out and stretch my legs.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Woohoo! We made it to Eagle Rock School!! We began our day riding through the gates of RMNP. There wasn't a whole lot of traffic, and the roads had a nice shoulder. Today is a big day--we have to ride up and over Trail Ridge Road. This road runs through the park and its highest point is just over 12,000 feet high, way above the tree line, making it pretty scary in the afternoon when the thunderstorms begin.

We climbed, climbed, and climbed our way to Milner pass, our 19th and final divide crossing. The pass is at 10, 758 feet, and it took us a lot of effort to get up there. The road was all paved, but we began the morning at about 8,500 feet. The temperature was nice for a such a grueling morning ride.

#19!

Grinding up Trail Ridge Road after the pass

Not looking forward to the ride down to Estes

Even though we crossed the divide, we still had to climb another 1,200 feet to get to the highest point on the road before we could begin descending into Estes Park. We stopped at the Alpine Visitor Center (around 11,000 feet) to take a break and devise a plan for the rest of the day. And here's the plan we came up with...we needed to find someone with a pickup truck that would be willing to throw our bikes in the back and give us a ride down to Estes! First I asked a group of people, but they were headed towards Granby, so that didn't work. Then it began to rain, so the parking lot was clearing out fast. I went into the visitor center, and Nate had duty first. He came back about five minutes later and said, "Come here and meet these super nice people that are going to give us a ride as soon as they finish their lunch." George and Theresa are from Lincoln, Nebraska (how funny that our 4th of July experience was in Lincoln, MT), and they were on vacation. We rode down in the safety of their truck as it rained outside. If you've ever been on Trail Ridge Road, the drop offs are SUPER scary and there's no guardrail either. I was quite glad that we decided to do this instead of riding down in the rain.

View from 12,000 feet

We ended up taking this wonderful couple out to lunch at Nepal's restaurant in Estes Park, which is Nate's favorite. Then they were kind enough to drop us off at Eagle Rock, where we arrived just in time for the all-star softball game.

Monday, August 2, 2010

I found a rock embedded in my tire this morning, so perhaps that's been the culprit? That makes flat tire #6. We made oatmeal in the hotel room and then got on way along Hwy 40 to get to Grand Lake. I wasn't feeling too hot from last night's dinner, and my stomach was in shambles, so we rode rather cautiously.

We rode into Sulphur Hot Springs and had a decent lunch at the Glory Hole Restaurant. We rode on and saw a beautiful fox cross the highway. The storm clouds were brewing again, and as we rode onto Hwy 34 from Granby into Rocky Mountain National Park, we had to pitch the rain fly so we weren't blasted down by giant lightning bolts. The weather around the Rocky Mountains amazes me. The storms build so quickly, and they're so intense. We hung out in the tent and played cards until it passed. We then rode on into Arapaho National Recreation Area and camped at Stillwater Campground right on Lake Granby.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Nate dashed back over to the bagel place for breakfast and then brought them back to the hotel room for a faux breakfast in bed... Our goal today is to make it to Kremmling, so we had two choices: follow the route or take Hwy 40. Two natives advised us to not take the highway because there is no shoulder, so we heeded their advice and followed the route.

We headed out of town on pavement, and ran into tons of roadies. It's nice to see so many people biking... Then we hit a pretty cool section of the trail--tons of aspens on a narrow road. We climbed up to the reservoir and then did some fun "almost-single-track" around the reservoir.

View from the damn

Of course, there were storm clouds brewing to the south, but they didn't look as though we were going to hit them. I try so hard to be optimistic about the weather...Sigh...We had quite a ways to go to Kremmling, so we picked up the pace and crossed Lynx Pass, Gore Pass, and then rode our way to Kremmling. It began raining at Lynx Pass and didn't stop until we were almost done with the ride. We had to stop at Gore Pass to change into dry clothes for the ride down. Nate can really hold it together in cold weather; I fall apart.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

We deviated from the route this morning because just as we were about to leave, I rolled my bike out and discovered that once again, my back tire had gone flat. Flat tire count: Robyn 5, Nate 0. We had to get to Steamboat Springs before 12 PM because that's when the post office closes, and our bounce box and an alleged care package from my sister were waiting there. We booked it into Steamboat Springs along the highway and stopped at a bagel place to fill our bellies with something other than Clif Bars. We ran into a couple of other riders that we hadn't seen since Lincoln, so that was good to see them.

This was the only picture we took today, and I have no idea what Nate's doing..

At the post office, the bounce box was there, so we resupplied and sent the box back to Milwaukee because we'll be ending our trip in the next few days in Estes Park, Colorado. However, there was NO box from my sister, so I asked them to forward it to Estes. I'm sure the brownies will be hard as rocks, but it doesn't matter.

The bikes need new chains, so we went to the Orange Peel bike shop to get that done. The staff there was super friendly, and we're pretty convinced that Steamboat is the nicest tourist town that we've been to. We stopped at their farmer's market and somehow scored a free baguette, so we made some tasty veggie sandwiches for lunch. Oh yeah, we checked into a motel since the campground was outside of the town. We stayed at the Western Lodge, which has gotten mixed reviews online (someone wrote that it smelled liked someone had died in their room the previous night...). Our room was decent, and the guy who runs it is pretty ridiculous. The prices are the most reasonable in town.

We then had a nice dinner at the Mahogany Brewery to end our busy day. We asked where the best burgers are and this is where we were told to go. Good food!

Future GDR Riders: The Orange Peel is a great bike shop and they really take care of their customers.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Dew was everywhere this morning--our stuff was soaked. We packed up quickly, though, because we have a big day today. We're doing the Columbine Alternate instead of the regular route. We filtered water out of some creek that had a gigantic herd of sheep waltzing through. I now know what sheep poop looks like...

Nate riding through Aspen Alley

Our ride was incredibly beautiful with aspen trees quaking as the wind blew, green shrubs everywhere and tall mountains all around us. It's such a nice change of scenery. We rode through Aspen Alley after filtering, and then rode along a creek for awhile as the sun heated up the air. We wanted so badly to jump in the water, but the ranch fences went right up to the bridges, so it was impossible to get access to the water.

Heading into Colorado

Today ended up being very tough terrain--lots of rollers in some pretty intense heat. We opted to do the Columbine Alternate instead of sticking to the main route. It turned out to be up and then down, up and then down, repeat. We were incredibly parched and ran out of water along today's ride. Brain yelled out, "Water?!!?" to an oncoming car, and they stopped and gave us a couple of water bottles. Nice peeps. Near the end, it was all up, up, up to Columbine where we bought ice cream and Brain treated us to Mountain Dews. After that, it was a quick 5 miles to Steamboat Lake. We ended up camping with two of the Bobs, so we split the campsite three ways.

View from Steamboat Lake Campground

I need to start researching how to clean a down sleeping bag--Nate's sleeping bag currently smells like a wet dog that rolled in a pile of Nacho Cheese Doritos. Mine, of course, smells like roses and vanilla frosting. Speaking of, bummer to hear about that grizzly bear attack outside of Yellowstone that happened this past week.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

It was quite awesome to check into a hotel room at 7 AM yesterday and not have to leave until 11 AM this morning. We slept like champions. But, that didn't work out well as far as getting an early start goes...

We nabbed a couple of foot longs from the Subway next door to eat for dinner later on tonight and stocked up on food for about 2 days. Brian, Nate and I set off on pavement with a storm brewing to the north, behind us. It built up fairly quickly, and after about 25 miles of riding, we had to pitch the rain fly in a cow field because the lightning strikes were getting too close. We played cards for a bit until the storm passed. I won, which is a good thing because I'm a horrible loser and I would have been completely unbearable for the rest of the day...

The rain finally stopped, and we set out again. Unfortunately, the roads were SUPER muddy and our pace slowed to a crawl. We couldn't go fast enough on the downhills (because it would have been unsafe) to get any momentum to go up the hills.

Brian and I heading into Medicine Bow NF at sunset

Brian and Nate working on a fire

As soon as we crossed into Medicine Bow National Forest, we picked a spot to camp and pitch the tents, gobbled up our sandwiches, and went to sleep. We were short about 7 miles of our intended campsite, but that's the way it goes out here. It will just make tomorrow a bit longer.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

After getting about 3 hours of sleep before we got out of the tent at 11 PM, we packed up and were on the road just after midnight. I was definitely hesitant about this plan, but went with it anyway. We had about 13 miles of dirt road to ride before we hit pavement, and the first couple of miles were pretty freaky. My senses were super heightened, and I was very, very awake. Our Ay-Up lights lit the way quite nicely and the road was very smooth. There was lightning due south of us, but we couldn't even hear the thunder, so we were safe. Jackrabbits were bounding in front of our bikes; they must be nocturnal. One ran down the road with us for a good minute, trying to find a good spot to duck out into the sage brush.

Night riders

It was super weird not knowing what was around us. I'm sure there were cows and pronghorn that were watching us, but we certainly couldn't see them. The moon was a waning gibbous, but we lost its light about halfway through the ride when the clouds covered it up. It was a comfortable 65 degrees the entire ride, and we had a slight tailwind the whole time. We crossed the divide (#18) as we took the highway into Rawlins. The sun was just coming up with its pink and orange sky as pulled into Penny's Diner just before 6 AM, making our 24 hour total about 125 miles.

After a very quiet breakfast (the three of us were shoveling food into our mouths), we were on our way to America's Best Value Inn to check into a hotel room, when we spotted Jerry's Donuts. We stopped in and instead of getting one donut a piece, we ended up walking out with 12 day-old donuts for $3. Actually, we walked out with nine because we obviously ate one a piece in the store. FYI-the box was empty when we went to sleep that night. I love eating, and this trip has allowed me to eat at least 5 burgers a week with fries, plus dessert after every meal. I'm going to have to seriously retrain myself to eat right when we get home.

Jerry's Donuts at 7AM!

Future GDR Riders: The night ride was awesome, and the fact that there was hardly any traffic on this ride along with the great roads and easy terrain, made this one a good one. Besides, we beat the heat!

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

We woke up at 5:45 AM to once again beat the heat on our crazy ride through the Divide Basin. There is limited water through this section of the ride, so any chance we have to fill up, we did. Surprisingly, I had cell phone reception at our site last night (Sweetwater Creek) and I called base camp (i.e. Mom) to have her check on the situation at Diagnus Well, a water source here in the Basin. She ended up putting my brother, Paul, on the phone, and he checked on the Internet to see what he could find about the well. He couldn't find anything specifically other than other people's blog entries about being able to get water at the well, so that was enough information for me to decide that we didn't need to filter the water from Sweetwater Creek; we could just wait 10 miles and get it from Diagnus Well.

Filling up at Diagnus Well (note cow skull next to my bike)

We arrived to the well, which was pretty obvious because there was green all around it, instead of brown and yellow that is pretty much everywhere in this high desert. Here, we met Brain, a biker who has been on the road for nearly 8 months of his 18 month journey.

From left to right: Nate, sign, and Brian break up the horizon

Fortunately, we had good weather on our ride because if it had been raining, the roads would have been extremely difficult to ride on. We saw a herd of wild horses, two lizards, and tons of pronghorn (commonly mistaken as antelope).

After a long, hot day and another divide crossing (#17), we made it to the reservoir and jumped right in. Well, I kind of whined a bit because it was a bit nasty, but the cool water was refreshing.

While on the ride, Brian and Nate hatched plan to ride the rest of the way to Rawlins tonight--a night ride through the desert...

Monday, July 26, 2010

Chilly morning! We awoke to frost covering everything, but as soon as the sun poked its head over the mountains, we were warmed up and good to go.

Early morning frost

We got out of camp early, in order to beat as much of the heat as we could. The sun continues to be blazing hot, and as you can see, there aren't many clouds. The air is really dry, too, so I don't ever feel myself sweating, but my skin always has that nice crusty salt feel to it. The creeks are a pleasure to jump in at the end of the day's ride to wash all that off.

We crossed the divide three times today (#14, 15, and 16), but it wasn't that noticeable as far as exertion goes. We even got to ride atop the divide for a mile and a half, and that was super sweet because the Great Divide Basin was on our right and another basin was on the left.

Into the Basin we go

We stopped in Atlantic City, Wyoming after South Pass City to have lunch at the Atlantic City Mercantile Exchange, and had really good food, but whacked out service. I'm not sure what the deal was, but I will tell you that I've seen copious advertisements for crystal meth abuse prevention.

South Pass City

There were only ten miles left after lunch, but the first part was uphill, and I almost barfed up my Cowboy Burger (double patties). There's something about exercising after one eats... We finally got to our site, and there was an absolutely wonderful section of the Sweetwater Creek (sweet because of all the cow manure in it?) running through it, so we set up the tent fast and jumped in. It wasn't that cold, so we stayed in for awhile. The Bobs showed up right after us, and we hung out in the creek until it got cool enough to get in the tent. Tomorrow is going to be a BIG day--nearly 70 miles through the Basin.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Today might have been a new record in getting out of camp--we made it out before noon with just 10 minutes to spare... The Fargonauts that we met yesterday stopped by to check out our gear, and we chatted for a bit, so that's one excuse, but other than that, we were just plain slow.

Our ride was toasty. This area of the country gets a tremendous amount of sunshine, and yet no one has solar panels, but they're destroying the land south of the city in search of natural gas and oil fields... Anyway, it was pretty hot and the trees aren't that tall, so we didn't have much shade.

Multi-tasking while packing up camp

Instead of mosquitoes, the black flies have hatched--the biting kind that hurt really, really bad. We passed some cows near a creek, and all of a sudden, dozens of flies starting swarming us, and we took off as fast as we could. I was pedaling about 20 mph, and they were still hounding us! Those jerks can move fast. After a few more patches of this, Nate said, "At least they're not landing on us." Not five seconds after he said that, one had taken a chunk of flesh from my right calf, and I smacked it as a drop of blood appeared in place of the skin that had once been there. The good thing is that the bites don't itch afterward.

The scenery was dry, dry, dry, but we can still smell the sage. The Wind River Mountains were to the north and many peaks still have snow pack. It would have been nice to roll around in some snow on our ride. The creeks seemed like small miracles every time we rode over one.

No shade

We saw several markers for the Oregon Trail on the ride today. There were supposed to be gravestones, too, but we didn't stop to look for them.

We took a break in the shade of some aspen trees that we encountered for a brief period near the end of our ride, and a beautiful orange hummingbird buzzed around us, probably attracted to the smell of our raspberry electrolyte drinks.

Our campsite tonight is right next to the Little Sandy Creek, so we jumped in and swam after we set up our tent. There are four other guys here, all with B.O.B. trailers, so Nate named them the Bobs. It will be nice to have some other people to ride through the Divide Basin with.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

We hit up the car wash and cleaned our bikes before bringing them to the A to Z Hardware to get the chains cleaned. Nate and I have a good system for getting both bikes done in the short 4 minutes they give you at the do-it-yourself car wash. Then, while they were being worked on at the hardware store, we hit up The Wrangler for breakfast. Good choice.

Afterward, we went to the outdoor shop and then to the library. I was fortunate enough to sit next to a local guy who had his girlfriend working on his resume for him. His email address was something along the lines of lovin_the_ladies@yahoo.com or something like that. Good luck getting a job...

Nate's on a constant search for magazines, so he inquired at the library about their discarded magazines. They directed us to the recycling center, and Nate jumped right in, looking for something to read.

Nate dumpster diving in search of magazines

Then we bumped into some other GDR riders, two of whom were riding Fargos, so we had to get their picture.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Our ride was pretty easy today--almost all pavement to Pinedale. We had a crappy lunch at the Patio Grill in town, but their milkshakes were pretty tasty. After that, we went to the only campground around (Pinedale Campground) and met Ray, a youthful Oklahoman who will be doing a 7 day backpacking trip in the Wind River Mountains. We shared a campsite and lots of stories.

Nate and I went into town to pick up our bounce box AND a care package from Alyce! Thanks, Mother! Clif Bars, Fruit Leather and gum were abound. We stopped at the library, and then went out to dinner with Ray. Tomorrow is another rest day and we've got to clean the bikes--they're cranky!!

Thursday, July 22, 2010

I'm not sure why we do high mileage days with tons of climbing like this, but we did one today and I'm a wreck.

We had a leisurely morning, packing up our nearly dried out things. I washed up some dishes and left them out to dry in the sun. Well, a little something or other ate through Nate's bowl and took a chunk out of mine!

We set out on the highway and made great time, until we had to start climbing on a dirt road. Oh the skeeters... They're like the weather--either celebrate them or ignore them. We've been using the Off Towelettes and they seem to work pretty well.

Anyway, we finally scaled Union Pass (#13 and 9,200 feet), and we ended up in this beautiful alpine area with stunning views all around. This is ATV land, so we had plenty of company whizzing by throughout much of our ride. We stopped and made a new lunch combo--potatoes, canned turkey(!), and Velveeta cheese.

We had some down hills at the end of the day that I thought were going to shake the fillings right out my mouth.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

After nearly four weeks of pretty wonderful weather following our initial four-day downpour, we had a near repeat of the beginning of our trip. It rained a very cold rain all day long. We awoke early at camp and headed into the village to stock up on food and grab breakfast. The general store has the best cinnamon rolls!!

We ran into Mark, a Transcontinental roadie, who's spinning to end finning. I think he was enjoying a cinnamon roll, too. It was drizzling a little bit as we left, but near Moran Junction, it began to rain steady, so we pulled off at a Griswold gathering--everyone was checking out a young moose--and put on our dusty rain gear. Then it got more intense, and the lightning and thunder forced us to stop at Teton RV park and wait out the storm, but we seemed pretty socked in. It was too bad because we missed some stunning views of the Tetons.

Mark then walked in and joined us for lunch and pretty soon, the three of us set off again, making our way up Togwotee Pass (crossing #12). The climb was nearly 2,000 feet of elevation over 9 miles, so we were struggling. Finally we crossed over the pass, and then jumped into the back of a pickup truck so that we could get ferried through the construction that was being done.

A free ride through the construction

We ended up at Lava Mountain Lodge, a hip place that charges a bit too much for camping ($15), but had pay showers and a nice staff.

Future GDR Riders: Colter Bay is a nice rest day spot, and has a very well-stocked grocery store. Get a cinnamon roll (or 2 or 3).

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

We enjoyed hanging out in Colter Bay Village today. We bought food at the store to make sandwiches on our hike near Jackson Lake. We even took a dip, but it was a bit too cold to stay in there for very long.

Jackson Lake

Note the RIDICULOUS tan lines--white feet and thighs.

More laundry, showers, and another delicious Nate dinner. He made grilled mushroom and onion cheeseburgers.

Monday, July 19, 2010

No bears that we saw at Lizard Creek... I suppose that's a good thing. We rode a short way to Colter Bay, still in the National Park. The Griswolds were bad again, but thankfully, we arrived safely to a decent hiker/biker site ($7/ person).

We set up camp and made lunch, then went into the "village" to explore to figure out what we're going to do tomorrow on our rest day. I did some laundry, and Nate cooked a sweet dinner--grilled chicken sandwiches. Then we went back into town to get ice cream.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

We awoke ridiculously late after a failed attempt to get up at 4:15 and ride as the sun came up. Wishful thinking. The campground was practically deserted by the time we left.

We rode out of Yellowstone Park and into Grand Teton National Park after paying too much for a crappy lunch. Why is it okay to charge $9 for a grilled chicken breast, a handful of fries, and a bun?? The Griswolds were horrible on the road that had, at times, absolutely NO shoulder.

Look! A moose!

I understand now why the Adventure Cycling Association doesn't take you through Yellowstone--there just isn't room for bikes. We crossed the divide once today (#11) and then rode south, high above a canyon. The terrain here is still devastated from the 1988 wildfires, but the trees are certainly growing back.

We stopped at Flagg Ranch after entering Grand Teton Nat'l Park, and these yahoos wanted $37.10 for a campsite, so we rode on to Lizard Creek, which has $5 hiker/biker sites. We took a jump in Jackson Lake--cold, but not that bad. I napped for bit and Nate made 10 hot dogs on the fire pit grill. We ate them all.

Afterward, the camp host swung on by to check in, and proceeded to tell us that the nice walk-in sites that we're at are right in front of "Bear Hill." Apparently, bears frequent the hill right behind where our tent is pitched. In fact, there was a grizzly that was out there this morning, so we'll see what happens tomorrow when we wake up...

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Tasty Clif Bars and bananas for breakfast!! We left camp and headed toward Old Faithful. We took some bike paths that were decent, but on soft volcanic soil. We saw two buffalo on our ride and several marmots on our ride:

Marmots that we did NOT poke at with ski poles, Mary!!

We got to Old Faithful and had crappy over-priced food at the cafeteria. Then, it erupted, and it sounded like people watching fireworks on the 4th of July.

Oooo! Aaaaah!

We took showers at the lodge, and then did another 17 miles over to Grant, making that our 9th and 10th divide crossings.