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BACKSTAGE CONFIDENTIALThe Art of Subtlety
A half-hour before the show’s official start time, Gucci Westman was busy chatting up models and mixing lipsticks on the back of her hand—a harmony of pink and lavender pigments with a resulting color “you just can’t put your finger on.” To get that neither-here-nor-there shade, Westman treated lips to Lancôme Sweet Balms in both Sweet Rose and Sweet Pink, on top of which she added a matte white powder from her kit. To replicate the effect, Westman suggests finishing with Giorgio Armani Cosmetics Eye Shadow #16.

Doing the Wave
Forget the straight and narrow, said stylist Kevin Ryan. “No matter what they say, most girls want a little bend in their hair. It’s just more feminine.” Wielding a hot, large-barred curling iron, he wrapped the ends of the hair into free-form, organic-looking twists, pinning some into an updo, leaving others long and sleek. “Peter’s collection is really about the individual, so I kept the hair the same way,” he said of his disparate styles. “The only rule these days is ‘Look Pretty.’”

Certain Sparkle
Ryan misted the models’ locks with Pantene Pro-V Blonde Expressions Maximum Hold Hairspray whether they were fair-haired or not. The spray’s reflective copolymers gave all of the girls a glossy finish.

Early Birds
Stella McCartney’s 6 a.m. call time didn’t allow for much shut-eye among her young models. Thankfully, Pat McGrath, who spent her own formative years “going straight from the club to work,” knows how to disguise the look of sleep-deprived skin. A few drops of her secret potion, SK-II Facial Treatment Clear Lotion, delivers a potent and alcohol-free blend of hydroxy acids, moisturizers, and skin-softening pitera. McGrath’s other favorite drops are a little less luxurious, but equally effective. “Visine! The key is moisture,” she said. “Everywhere.”

Awake and Sing
Having gotten the models looking somewhat awake, McGrath pushed her luck. “I’m going for bright-eyed and bushy-tailed!” McGrath dabbed Cover Girl Outlast Liquid Makeup (her favorite) on any blotchy areas, then added a pop of pink blusher, which gave complexions a believable, well-rested glow. Lashes were left bare, and lips were slicked with Max Factor MAXwear Lip Color & Gloss Duo in Mauve Mystic, a super natural shade she created for the brand. “Stella wanted the girls looking completely clean and bare, barer than any of the other collections I’ve done,” said McGrath. “But we have to cheat a little bit sometimes, don’t we?

Ready to Wear Amidst all the theatrics of Paris Fashion Week, the practicality of Stella McCartney’s quiet-by-comparison clothes resonated with her audience. “She makes clothes that people actually wear,” said stylist Eugene Souleiman, who captured the designer’s easy, breezy ethos in the girls’ hair. “You want to look understated, but you still want to have a couple of cool, raw little details going on.” His strategy? Take the idea of beach hair, a done-to-death runway staple, and turn it into something just as accessible but a bit more interesting.

Making Waves
To toughen up vacation-style waves, Souleiman rolled clean hair into one large bun, secured it with an elastic, then blasted it with the super-strong TIGI Bed Head Hard Head Hairspray. After unfurling the hair, he didn’t bother smoothing out the curls and ridges. In fact, he went out of his way to muss it up a little further, running his trusty Mason Pearson Brush over the models’ locks to create a few flyaways. “It’s a very dry look,” Souleiman said. “But at the same time, it’s fluid, like Stella’s clothes.”

Stella McCartney’s 6 a.m. call time didn’t allow for much shut-eye among her young models. Thankfully, Pat McGrath, who spent her own formative years “going straight from the club to work,” knows how to disguise the look of sleep-deprived skin. A few drops of her secret potion, SK-II Facial Treatment Clear Lotion, delivers a potent and alcohol-free blend of hydroxy acids, moisturizers, and skin-softening pitera. McGrath’s other favorite drops are a little less luxurious, but equally effective. “Visine! The key is moisture,” she said. “Everywhere.”

Quote:

Awake and Sing

Having gotten the models looking somewhat awake, McGrath pushed her luck. “I’m going for bright-eyed and bushy-tailed!” McGrath dabbed Cover Girl Outlast Liquid Makeup (her favorite) on any blotchy areas, then added a pop of pink blusher, which gave complexions a believable, well-rested glow. Lashes were left bare, and lips were slicked with Max Factor MAXwear Lip Color & Gloss Duo in Mauve Mystic, a super natural shade she created for the brand. “Stella wanted the girls looking completely clean and bare, barer than any of the other collections I’ve done,” said McGrath. “But we have to cheat a little bit sometimes, don’t we?”

__________________ten days of perfect tunesthe colorsredandbluewe had a promise madewe were in love

By the way, does anyone know where to get a product like Visine in the UK, which tones down redness in the skin?

It's eye-drops But I've read somewhere that it tones down redness and minimalizes pores when used on the face. I think you should ask someone at your local pharmacy, I'm sure there is a similar product in the UK

__________________ten days of perfect tunesthe colorsredandbluewe had a promise madewe were in love

I just started a professional makeup course. I had my makeup done professionaly before but I feel that som eof the things I am studing are different. I don't know what's better. Here are some of my questions:
1. We are taught to paint the eyes (cocealer, eyeshadow) first,before we start with makeup on the face.
2. The first step of the eyes is concealer on the eyelid and below the lower lash line.
3. We use a dark, chocolate concealer to create shadowing below the cheekbone and other areas that need fixing.
What do you guys think? I appreciate all your help

I'm not an expert, but I've read a lot of books by makeup artists. Hope you don't mind my input.

For the first one, I always thought doing the face first was better. Then you can apply foundation around the eyes easily at the same time. Seeing someone doing it the other way actually bugs me. One advantage might be that, you may end up applying less foundation if you can see how 'distracting' the eyes are. I'm sure it's up to personal preference, but I think most professionals do foundation first.

Number three is generally a no for modern make-up. It's so Kevyn Aucoin (no offence. ) It can make a face look dirty. I just think it's unnecessary unless you're doing it for a photoshoot.

I can't say much for #2. I just know I wouldn't do that to my own eyes. Concealer can be too heavy, which is why I think foundation should be done around the eyes before anything else.

Yah its all about personal preference, and everybody has their own style of doing makeup.

I personally like doing the eyes first, because you can clean under the eyes when you're making a smokey look or just using some eyeshadow that will fall under your eyes. There's many tricks to avoid that like using extra loose powder under your eyes, but I find that not everyone looks good under the eyes after there's one pound of loose powder under them drying out the skin

The face contouring with darker shades of foundation, its something I do only for shoots. I dont see this very effective on an everyday look, because you'll be able to see the different shades. It doesnt matter how good you are at blending, you'll see that there's darker shades around your hairline and cheekbones and jawline. If you're not a drag queen, stick to a bronzer or a darker blush to contour your face for everyday.

In pictures, the foundation contouring is fabulous, and effective. And I love Kevyn Aucoin for that.

The concealer on your eyelids? again, it depends. Some people don't have the ability to keep shadows to stick to their lids for a long time, so they use concealer. Now, I personally use a primer if that's the case, because the thought of using concealer on someone's lids is like putting butter on their face e-ffin'-www.

The best advice is for your to educate yourself, read up, everyone has a different style and a different way of doing things.

Experience different products, there's amazing things that work for me and my techniques, that wont work for you, and vice versa. Go read up at a bookstore, I learned a lot from Kevyn Aucoins books, read here at tfs, we have amazing tips from experienced makeup artists or makeup junkies that have their own ways of doing things, and you might like them.

__________________

Homosexuality is God's way of insuring that the truly gifted aren't burdened with children.

thanks for your input. you too, pavement. when i said concealer as the first step, we use a liquid concealer that is a shde lighter than the skin.
When I had my makeup done by a professional, she used a gray blush under my cheekbones, and now I am taught to use a chocolate concealer. Have youi used either one? which is better?

For the first one, I always thought doing the face first was better. Then you can apply foundation around the eyes easily at the same time. Seeing someone doing it the other way actually bugs me. One advantage might be that, you may end up applying less foundation if you can see how 'distracting' the eyes are. I'm sure it's up to personal preference, but I think most professionals do foundation first.

I think its all about personal preferences really, and doing what looks best for the person you are working on.

Alot of the "rules" that you hear about or so old. I hate the whole....blue eyes should only wear these colors etc.

to me...if it looks good....it looks good.

I know alot of makeup artists start with the eyes first, as mentioned....that way you can clean up any shadow that falls under the eyes etc.

I tend to do more natural, classic makeup styles, so its easier for me to start with the complexion.

I dont do shadowing or contouring really either, unless for a shoot or something like that. You just dont really need to do that for a everday look.

I dont use a shadow base/primer all the time either. It works great for people that have some discoloration on the eyes, or have trouble with shadows staying on. I prefer to use an actual primer/base that is made for that because they tend to be a bit lighter in texture than a concealer. But in a pinch an actual concealer will work as well.

__________________

It's said,
The map of the world is on you
The moon gravitates around you