Many things seem to have informed Joško Gravner’s decision, or decisions, to radically change his winemaking direction over the years. Those meant risking everything: his reputation, his thriving business, perhaps even his friends.

Today, Gravner is one of the most revered cult names of Italian winemaking, following a rigorous natural winemaking philosophy. The wine world – not just Italy – pays attention to what he does, and many follow his example. But it was not always thus.

The Gravner difference: six of the best to try

Tom Cannavan is a widely published and awarded wine writer, journalist and broadcaster, and owner of www.wine-pages.com.