The expansive/expensive wine list overseen by sommelier Dwayne Savoie includes plenty of by-the-glass selections as well as half-bottles — the latter starting at $40. The Restaurant's website advertises a monthly collection of 65 wines, all discounted 40 percent, but no mention of such was made verbally or on the menu.

A high bar is set for high-end restaurants. Most of the cuisine here clears the elevated hurdle, but service and attention to detail come up short. The staff here works in a more professional manner than those at many Beach establishments, yet the young workers aren't long on experience. Tableside manners became clumsy at times, and there were minor miscues — from our linen tablecloth never being cleared of crumbs, to having to wait too long for entrée plates to be cleared.

Other details were missed. On one visit, we were brought predinner lentil wafers and shrimp crackers, an amuse-bouche, and a postdinner truffle; another time, we received none of the three. That's a big omission. Tablecloths in the room were wrinkled and laid crookedly, and our table wobbled whenever anything was placed on it — except for an absolutely weightless passion fruit soufflé (unfortunately, it wasn't wait-less; owing to confusion, perhaps language-related, the waiter forgot to place our order).

Tall as a top hat, the soufflé was steamy, foamy, mellifluous, and moist. At the bottom of the dish was a thin layer of chocolate; chocolate sauce was superfluously served alongside (we didn't use it), along with a dab of pure passion fruit sorbet. New pastry chef Carl Bertka also offers smaller desserts ($7 or $8), including a dreamily creamy, citrus-happy yuzu cheesecake with a scoop of sesame ice cream (more notable for being gray than for the muted flavor).

You can have a great meal at the Restaurant at the Setai. Finding great value is another matter.

What I really liked about the restaurant when I ate at the Setai last May was that they feature cuisines from all over the world. Every academy and future chef should eat here before embarking on a christian mission because this food is amazing!