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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

Go 'hawks. Get set atop the obvious boulder. Rush up the middle past three bolts. Reset, then sweep right up a shallow ramp and incipient cracks to the bottom of the dihedral. Play-action up the dihedral, and break containment right past a bolt to get established under another bolt. Punch it in or punt. Despite hours of prep, expect the field to be gritty. Be very mindful of rope drag.

Location

Just right of After the Fall. Lower from chains.

Protection

Nuts and a set of cams to a No.2 (yellow) Camelot, with a few extra finger-size cams. Offset brass nuts (or peanuts) useful for the ramp. Using shoulder-length or longer slings in the dihedral will help prevent rope drag.

Just before the final roof moves, a gray TCU and/or .1 X4 seemed crucial pieces, the TCU held a decent fall when another piece pulled. But I was aiding the route so what do I know. If I was free climbing it I'd definitely take a few tiny cams for that section
Jul 1, 2018