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Hello, I am going to be going to a swap and have some fenders to sell. I am trying to find out what could expect to get for them. Or the least I should accept for them

Both fenders are GM !

Each fender is needing minor repair which I am showing in the attached pictures. Other than the areas you see that need repair, these fenders are rust free, have no body filler, and are straight with no dents. Both fenders have been stripped to bare metal inside and out and primed with PPG DP40 epoxy primer.

You can see on fender "A" that the lower mounting tab just behind the wheel opening is missing. I have a donor piece off another fender that goes with it to patch it.

On fender B, the area that needs repair on the inside where the brace is and the area on the outside is the same area shown from oppsite sides

If I needed them, I'd pay at least 150-175 each to start. Many want $225 for fenders worse than those. I had a customer pass on an original paint, rot free, RS/SS assembly line fender for $350. Big mistake. When he came to his senses 3 weeks later it was no surprise the fender was gone. People with little restoration knowledge do not understand the value of an assembly line take off if it needs work or not. They want a new repro. When you tell them it requires $$$ to make it fit right they do not understand why. Many attempting bodywork for the first time think a repro or even a late stamped NOS fender is bolt on and go. Others don't know or care. As long as you can't throw a baseball through the gaps they are happy. Some just like shiny paint and don't even know how bad the bodywork is. Without being able to run my paw over them, and beside the minimal tin repair, they look like nice fenders.

That's a lot of loot for used fenders but if people are willing to pay the price then so be it. I guess it beats the repro fit quality I always hear about.I have a pair of 67 NOS fenders in the shed as spares. I was wondering what they would be worth today. Now this thread gives me an idea if I decided to sell them.I also have a NOS 68 door skin that I bought as a spare in '86 thinking it was for a '67 (so I was told) until I found out earlier this year that it was for a '68 I guess it's too late to return it!

That's not a lot of loot if you know what it takes to make repro fenders or late stamped NOS fit. Even early stamped NOS are no guarantee to be like assembly line take offs. The last set of late stamped I used required mods to make acceptable. Bodylines were soft, tops had waves, top of fenders to doors were way off. If you want gaps better than factory and don't want the fender midline to stand proud of the door, even assembly line tin require mods.