A while back, my Norcold 962 frig did not seem to be cooling well while on a trip. The freezer was doing fine, but the frig box was not. I thought it might be related to a clogged propane orifice and tried to clean it out. Well, I did a little too good a job on that and opened the orifice up too much. It then was producing too much of a flame and even emitting CO gas. I solved that for the trip by turning the ball valve for the frig propane back about half way, and it seemed to work alright. When back home, I order and installed a new orifice. Now we are back to square one. The frig seems okay on electrical but the propane is not getting hot enough. I have measured the temp at the chimney and it it much lower on propane than on electric.

I am tempted to put my old oversize orifice back in and regulate it with the frig propane supply ball valve since it had seemed to work, but that is not really addressing the problem. Any ideas on what it could be? I thought that maybe the circuit board is at fault, that maybe it was regulating the gas flow improperly but have been told it only turns the gas on/off and does not meter it.

The reverse, gas better than electric, is the usual. If you can look at a properly operating fridge on gas. And then compare to your flame. I would say dirty chimney but electric heat is good. Exhausted what I used to know about absorption reefers. 120VAC home type for us. If it breaks I'll buy a new one for a third the cost of the absorption type.

Lin have you taken it out and turned it up side down for 48 hours yet? It works. also look at the chimney and see if it has yellow like a powdery substance on it. If it does you have a pin hole leak. Also sounds like the heater in it might be going.

Clifford-- I just got in from playing with the regulator. The frig flame is now noticeably higher as is the stove. This might be good. The stove has seemed a bit weak to me lately, come to think of it. I probably should get the regulator properly calibrated before I blow something up though.

Bill-- I think I had cleaned the chimney when I first had the problem, but it won't hurt to do it to be sure.

Dave-- I have not yet removed it to try the upside down thing. I was hoping to avoid that, but it necessary I will try it.

Right now I'll wait an hour or so to see if the box cools on propane. Of course, it is night and that will help, but I should be able to determine something

Thanks Bob, I did not check that but will. The metal plug that covers the regulator adjustment screw was not there. I don't know when it fell out and never noticed it missing. The adjustment screw is a plastic disk with a spring behind it. I am guessing that road vibration has made it work itself out over time. It would have happened so gradually that I would not notice the change until it reached the point where something like the frig stopped working right. That's the theory anyway. I may just buy an auto change over regulator (this one is manual). That way I should get one that is set properly and I won't have to worry about losing heat at night.

I just wanted to update what I believe to be the resolution of this problem (unless it comes back). With the increased propane pressure, the fridge seems to work fine. The differential between the freezer and the fridge is 30 degrees or so, which is within reason. Apparently, the only reason it took some effort to deal with it was that I focused on the fridge itself when the real issue was outside-- the propane pressure. Hence, it was my fault for not thinking outside the ice box (yuk, yuk).

I had a problem with propane system after 6 years new .I was told by my rv guy that you can't have a oil trap in line ? on the system? I had to drain a 1/4 of a beer bottle of oil from the propane tank line , as my propane stoped flowing? So now on my 2 year maint. program I have to drain the oil from the line.I was told the oil is from propane tank refills ? dave