A few years ago, the Tru Value Home Hardware chain here was featuring a paint with a textured, gritty kind of finish for just this kind of application. They said it was good for patios, pool areas, that kind of thing. There must be a comparable product down there.

If your concrete floor is unpainted, you could overlay a thin layer of concrete and finish with a broom to make it less slippery. If the floor is painted, you may need to rent a concrete grinder to refinish the surface.

25% Acid 75% water mop it on then scrub it with a stiff bristle deck brush. Keep working it until it stops foaming. Then pressure wash it out. Then scrub it again with clean water and pressure wash it again. Allow it to dry , then paint it with a floor paint.

Tip #1 : Dont add the aggrigate to the paint. Paint a area of the floor then broadcast spread the aggrigate and repeat until entire floor is done.

Tip #2 : If you don't buy a paint that resist "HOT TIRE PICKUP" you will be repainting the areas were your tires set about every year.

I've done thousands of floors and if you don't acid wash them first the paint WILL NOT STICK to the smooth concrete.

Maybe it would be easier to put down those commercial big rubber mats used in resturaunt kitchen's, etc. in the main area's walked on. They also make rubber mats for garage floors too, not sure how well they'd hold up if you layed them where you drove on them all the time.

Water doesn't drain off our back patio, therefore, it can get slimy and very slippery when wet. I've slipped down a couple of times and have learned to be very cautious when wet. Pressure washing it often is the best thing I've found to help.

25% Acid 75% water mop it on then scrub it with a stiff bristle deck brush. Keep working it until it stops foaming. Then pressure wash it out. Then scrub it again with clean water and pressure wash it again. Allow it to dry , then paint it with a floor paint.

Tip #1 : Dont add the aggrigate to the paint. Paint a area of the floor then broadcast spread the aggrigate and repeat until entire floor is done.

Tip #2 : If you don't buy a paint that resist "HOT TIRE PICKUP" you will be repainting the areas were your tires set about every year.

I've done thousands of floors and if you don't acid wash them first the paint WILL NOT STICK to the smooth concrete.

Would the acid wash pit it enough to give it texture?

__________________
"Do you believe in the devil? You know, a supreme evil being dedicated to the temptation, corruption, and destruction of man?" Hobbs
"I'm not sure that man needs the help." Calvin

Tip #3- Make sure there is nothing that will rust in there while you are acid etching it! I knew a guy that did that in his machine shop. The next day, all his precision equipment was orange with rust from the fumes.

Tip #3- Make sure there is nothing that will rust in there while you are acid etching it! I knew a guy that did that in his machine shop. The next day, all his precision equipment was orange with rust from the fumes.

I would hate to see what his lungs looked like if he didn't use a respirator.

__________________
"Do you believe in the devil? You know, a supreme evil being dedicated to the temptation, corruption, and destruction of man?" Hobbs
"I'm not sure that man needs the help." Calvin

Mostly it is going to get the accumulation of oil and gas and general gunk plus whatever is left of the sealer off rather than etch the concrete. Paint will not stick to all that. We've used the epoxy paint on several floors (basement and garage) over the years - if well prepped it lasts well.

I would. Any concrete man worth his salt will put a sealer on the new floor unless you specifiy not to. Add to that there is going to be some traffic on the floor when they finish and stripping to track on it. Frankly, I am not sure how long the manufacturers of the floor coverings suggest letting the crete cure before applying but assume it is going to be atleast a couple days. It does not take much oil to keep the paint from sticking - consider it cheap insurance.

Kmac15 , You need to allow the "New Concrete" cure for a minimum of 90 days before doing anything to it. It has alkali in new concrete that needs to leach out (Efforvessant , Sp?) or you are waisting your time. 120 days would be better.

Fishhead , It will remove alot of the oil , grease , grim , sealant. It will also remove the top layer of portland cement that is in the concrete and expose the sand and tops of rocks , if done in a strong enough solution or left on to long.

If you have metal touching the floor or near the floor yes it will rust if not treated. As the Acid is very caustic. A way to take care of this is after the etch and before you pressure wash it , spray it down with a baking soda and water mixture from a garden sprayer. The Baking Soda will nutralize the acid.

Yes the Epoxy coating is the best way to go on the floor. However be fair warned Epoxy is not cheap in price by any means. I've seen it go as high as over $100/gal. for the better material. Rust Oleum makes a product called "Epoxy Shield" that comes in a kit. It's made for Garage floors , The last time I bought it I paid about $120 for the kit. Kit contains 2 gals. of Epoxy and floor chips to sprinkle over coating while wet. Kit is available at Lowe's. I did a 2 car garage floor and it took 2 kits.

If you are overall happy with the concrete then just seal it with any decent sealant mixed with sand. Sandblasting (silica) sand is easily available at any decent builders supply and works great. Mix some into the sealant and roll it onto the floor with a paint roller. The more sand you add, the greater the grip. You can make the floor look like a new sheet of sandpaper if that what you really want.

Save the acid for cleaning your still. Save the epoxy for your factory floor. If you don't own a factory, save the epoxy forever.