Description

This climb is located in the middle of the wall left of the climb Mean Mistreater. The first bolt is up aways and may deter some. The climbing then follows small crack systems and flakes right towards the ledge below a prominent chimney. When we climbed it we found that it was easiest to traverse a bit further right at the end of pitch 1 and just belay at the three bolt anchor of Mean Mistreater. The second pitch ascends the chimeny either in or out. I found the crux of the route getting from the belay to in the chimney. Belay at the top between a small boulder and a small oak. Walk off.

Protection

There is one bolt about 15ft. up the beginning slab and the rest can be done with small to medium nuts and Camalots .3- #2

Are you kidding? What's not to like, great rock, great exposure and fun climing (try steming the outside of the chimney and staying to the right). There is more to climbing then just simply "pulling down".

I have to say that I loved this climb and believe it is a Tucson classic... I know I know I have nothing to say when it comes to "what is what" and no one will respect my opinion but, I really enjoyed leading this climb. From the high first bolt to the chimney I got to inch worm up I felt that it was classic climbing and would love more climbs like it.

Don't let the first bolt scare you from this fun route. I did not find it to be difficult to reach, besides it could be stick clipped. The rest of the route was easy to protect (no run-outs). I recommend building the second belay station (is is a good location). The bolted finish starts when the chimney ends, it is a great way to end the route, and you can rap back down the wall using the Mean Mistreater anchors.

Did this yesterday- what a great route! I thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Stellar rock, good gear, and a nicely exposed 2nd pitch. The crux getting into the chimney was fun too! The arete finish was great. An excellent climb!

Did the route last Sunday with David (guy above) I agree the route is fun, especially the last part through the narrow chimney. I'm pretty new to climbing and found some sections to be pretty challenging. Be aware of the lack of anchors directly above the chimney. We had to use the anchors from the route on the right to rappel. There's only one chain and a bolt up there, at least that we could find. They are really close to the edge, so i would recommend carrying some small but long rope (we carried a 6mm x 30ft)to make an anchor before trying to get the rope through the chains for the rappel.

I know you can walk off this climb, but it will actually take forever when compared to rappelling. Still I guess you are right, the description says to walk off. I just thought it might be useful information for someone else.