Interlux Perfection Plus Two Part Varnish

Interlux Perfection Plus varnish is a clear, two-part polyurethane high gloss finish for wood and epoxy. This high-clarity, high gloss marine varnish provides superior UV protection and prolonged resistance to chemicals and abrasion.

The Plus formula is Interlux's most durable, a finish that lasts up to four times longer than conventional one-part varnish products. Designed for above the waterline use, the chemical cure of Perfection Plus provides superior resistance to fuels, oil and mild acids and alkali spills and is fully compatible with oily woods such as teak.

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES: With Perfection Varnish: In Good Condition Sand surface with 120-150 grade (grit) paper and remove all dust. In Poor Condition If varnish is badly checked or peeling, remove finish to bare wood with Interstrip Semi-Paste 299E.

CLEAR EPOXY: Allow epoxy to cure for 5-7 days. Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Wash down with fresh water. Wet sand with 180-220 grade (grit) paper. Wipe with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202.

Method Apply at least 5-7 coats on bare wood and a minimum of 3 coats on surfaces previously coated with Perfection Varnish. Sand between each coat with 220 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue with a rag dampened with Brushing Thinner 2333N.

Compatibility/Substrates Apply to clean, dry, properly prepared surfaces only. Do not apply over one part paints.

Number of Coats Bare Wood: 5-7 Previously Coated Wood: 3-4

Coverage (Theoretical) - 660 (sq ft/Gal) by brush

Recommended DFT 1.2 mils dry

Application Methods Brush, Roller

Finish: High Gloss

Specific Gravity: 1.063

Volume Solids: 50% (40% when reduced)

Mix Ratio: 2-1 by volume (as supplied)

Typical Shelf Life: 2 yrs

VOC (As Supplied): 450 g/lt

Unit Size: 1 US Quart

Number of Coats: Bare Wood- 5-7 Previously Coated Wood- 3-4

Drying Information

50 Degrees F

73 Degrees F

95 Degrees F

Touch Dry (ISO)

3 hours

2 hours

1 hour

Overcoated By

Min-Max

Min-Max

Min-Max

Perfection Varnish

12 hours-

8 hours-

6 hours-

TRANSPORTATION,STORAGE AND SAFETY INFORMATION

TRANSPORTATION: Perfection Varnish should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage.

STORAGE: Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Perfection Varnish to be realised ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5 deg C/40 deg F and 35 deg C/95 deg F. Keep out of direct sunlight.

DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to harden before disposal.
Remainders of Perfection Varnish cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit. Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities.

2014-12-18JERRY LAWRENCE asked:I have used Systemthree WR-LUP polyurethane topcoat with a crosslinker that I have sanded down to a smooth dull finnish. I would like to use Perfection Plus over the SwstemThree. What are your thoughts about this, will it work?

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2014-12-18BILL MCGRAW:Jerry,
I suspect it will work well. Even though they are both Linear polyurethanes, they wouldn't work together if they were both freshly applied as curing is still taking place. (one is WR, the other is SR). Because the substrate is fully cured, it will not cross link with a fresh coat anyway. A mechanical bond is what will keep them together and you've sanded them down to a "smooth, dull, finish". If I were you, I'd sand carefully with 180-220 grit, and apply multiple coats of fresh finish. The base coat will bond mechanically, and subsequent coats will cross link with that base coat if you apply as directed.
Best,

2014-12-18JOHN POPE:I used the Perfection Plus on an outdoor bench set made of Honey Locust planks previously varnished with various polyurethanes. I took it to bare wood in most exposed places but left the backside and nooks and crannies as they were. The bench has a "natural" cut with traces of bark and softwood on the edges of the planks, some of which had started to soften. After getting to hard wood in those areas I coated the exposed surfaces of the bench with CPES to harden the soft bits. Then I applied 3 coats of the Interlux Perfection Plus. It looks absolutely beautiful and is standing up to the Pacific Northwest elements.
This bench set has an unshaded southern exposure and faces the heavy weather without a protective tarp or cover. I usually get multiple years of service out of Perfection Plus and expect the same this time. I have used this finish over spar varnishes and marine polyurethane finishes and have never had it react or fail to adhere to these finishes.

2014-11-20BOOTS EVANS asked:I am restoring a 1955 Mercedes with hardwood trim interior. All the trim is out of the car, has been epoxied and is ready for finish. I'm looking for a piano finish and don't want to spray. This looks like the right product but I'm concerned about odor. I'm worried about what it would be like inside the car on a warm day? Any comments??

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2014-11-20RANDY BOGARDUS:no odor after full cure. great product!

2014-11-20PHIL RYDER:I used Perfection varnish on a boat that I keep in a hot garage and have never noticed any smell at all after the initial drying time.

2014-11-20MIKE PALUMBO:After a month it won't smell

2014-11-20Weaver Lilley:Haven't noticed any residual odors from my varnish of a kayak deck, even though we keep the boat inside at times. However, during application there are copious amounts of fumes. Make sure you have sufficient ventilation. I prefer working outside if possible. The final finish, after 3 coats, is spectacular.

2014-11-21GARY TAYLOR:I used it for an every-day dining table but for about anything else inside I'd suggest a thick brushing marine 1-part varnish with UV protection.
BE CAREFUL TO GET THE RIGHT THINNER FOR PERFECTION VARNISH - NOT JUST ANY INTERLUX. After full curing, Perfection will sand and rub to a gloss.

2014-11-22SCOTT BLAIS:I am sorry that i won't be much help to you. I only used this on my tiller, i never noticed any odor but I can't say with certainty what will occur when it gets warmed and enclosed inside of the car.

2014-11-25PAUL MARSHALL:I used this product on a boat transom. The finished transom sat for
a month or so in my shop while I finished other aspects of the boat project.
I did not smell any lingering smell from the finish.
Paul M

2014-08-12BRUCE BOLEN asked:Can this product be used over Z Spar 2015?

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2014-08-12JERRY STEENSON:You can't put this finish over any one-part paint or varnish. It only goes on to bare wood, epoxy, or previous coats of Perfection (or presumably, other similar 2-part finishes.)

2014-08-12BILL MCGRAW:I do not know, Bruce. If 2015 is a two part poly, then probably. if it is a one part poly..maybe. Check with Interlux.

2014-08-12MIKE PALUMBO:No

2014-06-24TERRY BAKEWELL asked:After application, does Perfection Plus require a cure time before it can get wet? High humidity is preventing me from varnishing my kayak until Thursday. We leave for Lake Huron Saturday. Is this going to be a problem?

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2014-06-24PAUL FLYR:Humidity is a real downer. The cure time is very slow. On the western side of my boat the sun managed to help it cure brightly, but the eastern shady side turned milky. I ended up doing 8 coats, but still had the milkyness show. Everything else I did that could be removed and varnished I let dry inside the boat and came out beautiful

2014-06-24RANDY BOGARDUS:It does require some cure time which varies depending n temp/humidity. If it were me, I would put some sort of supplemental heat in the work environment to cut down on the humidity and elevate the temp. The finish will be a bit softer than what it would be in it's fully cured state but two days post application you should be fine in the water particularly if you jack up the heat some.

2014-06-24NEAL HARRELL:Cure time is fairly quick, depending on temp. and humidity. I'd say 24 hrs minimum, but I've seen it cure in as little as 8-12 hrs.
Concerning temp and humidity...I've found out after using it the last 3 years that it is much is easier to apply at a slightly lower temp (55-60 degrees), as opposed to 70+. Lower temp allows you to go back and smooth over any imperfections. It tends to go on thick anyhow, and therefore sags much more than traditional varnish. We sometimes will use a thinner for the first and second coats. Make sure the surface is bone dry before you apply, otherwise you'll have to deal with moisture under the coat, which leads to 'whiting' bubbles and the need to start from scratch.

2014-06-24BILL MCGRAW:This is a catalyzied finish, not one that relies on evaporation of voc's. As long as the temp is up, it should cure (as opposed to "dry") as per interlux structions. Follow directions...no worries.

2014-06-24Terry Bakewell:Thanks, guys. First coat is on.

2014-06-24Terry Bakewell:THanks, Bill.

2014-06-24Terry Bakewell:THanks, Neal. I moved the kayak from the garage to my shop which is about 65 right now. I'm gonna go for it and hope for the best.

2014-06-25Weaver Lilley:Actually, one coat dries pretty fast. However, the varnish is sensitive to moister before 24 hrs. Had to redo a coat which got fogged by dew. It caused a weird matte finisfh. Normally this stuff is ultra glossy almost like glass. A great finish but requires care in application.

2014-04-29A shopper asked:Interlux Perfection Plus Two Part Varnish how do I make this product more compatible with teak?

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2014-04-29MORRIS MCCORMICK:Sorry, can't help with teak question, but do be sure and get the correct thinner for it, if you need to thin it. It isn't just plain old thinner.

2014-04-16ADRIAN GUYER asked:I have refinished a 1963 Boston Whaler Sakonnet center console, which is mahagony ply. I used 3 coats of Smiths penetrating epoxy sealer, followed by a coat of 207/105 hardener and epoxy. I am told I will need a varnish over the top of this to protect from UV damage. Is this the right product for my needs? If so how do I prep the surface for the varnish? I am hearing I need to wash it very well and then sand? Is there a cleaner I need to use for this?

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2014-04-16ROBERT SANDERS:I'm not aware of any cleaner, but you definitely will need to prep the wood by sanding. I believe you need to use s

2014-04-16ROBERT SANDERS:Yes, you will need UV protection and you will definitely need to prep the wood by sanding with the recommended grit of sandpaper. (100-20?). If you use too fine of sandpaper the interlude will not adhere to the 207/105 epoxy. I made this mistake on my wooden kayaks.
The interlux may look milky when you first mix it. That's ok, it will dry clear and will look great on your boat.

2014-04-16Adrian Guyer:Robert,
I have already applied 3 coats of penetrating epoxy as well as a coat of west system 207 hardener. So not applying to wood..

2014-04-16DANA FENIMORE:I'm happy to answer that question:
I use perfection plus as a top coat over all kinds of epoxy/fiberglass layups. Perfection plus bonds very well to cured epoxy, and provides good UV protection. I've been using it for 6 years with no hint of UV degradation. I scuff sand the epoxy surface with a 120 grit wet sanding prior to applying the Perfection Plus. If you want to re-coat Perfection Plus after it has fully cured, you must sand away all traces of its glossy surface, or the new coat will not adhere in the areas that were not well sanded.

2014-04-17BILL MCGRAW:Adrian,
You could go either way, either a good varnish like Ephphanes or Interlux Captain's, or use perfection plus. If the grain is totally filled during that last West system application, I would wash it with soap and water...the amine blush is water soluble. The block sand the 207 surface with 220 grit, then apply your varnish. It's true that varnish is relatively short lived, but service life varies tremendously depending on latitude.It the console has a cover or you're up north, you can get a season or two if you touch up nicks, worn spots, or deep scratches. That keeps moisture penetration at bay. I guess my preference is to use Perfection Plus in the shop on top of epoxy base, but to use varnish thereafter at the dock and on the hard because it is easier to maintain. I't hard to mix a tiny quantity of PPlus for touch up and to have all the stuff you need to do the job on board all the time.Two tips: 1) PPlus mixing: go get some irrigation syringes from a home health care supply store and use separate syringes for A and B so they're reusable and you get a perfect mix. and 2) if you choose varnish, go to an auto paint supply store(who supply body shops) and pick up a handfull of small bottles with brush lids. Put some varnish in that and keep it in your console for touch up. they are like nail polish bottles...well, sort of.
Good luck, Adrian, You project sound like good fun.

2014-04-17Weaver Lilley:If you just epoxied it I don't see the need to wash it. Just sand it very smooth and use a tack cloth before applying the perfection varnish. I roll it on and then tip it off with a foam brush. I recommend varnishing indoors if possible. If not, stay out of direct sunlight and conditions for drying must be very good. IE, no condensation (which ruined my final coat forcing me to sand and apply another). The finish is spectacular and worth the extra expense and work. Expect at least 3 coats, sanding in between. Very durable finish is the result.

2014-04-18MICHAEL DARNELL:there is a cleaner that the maker recommends marked on the back of the can of perfection. However I have used this product on several projects and have found that just a good wash and rinse with a cleaner like tide laundry detergent does the best job for me. My question to you is why only one coat of west system? I would recommend based on my experience that you apply at least 3 to 5 total coats of epoxy then allow to cure, sand,(use your judgement sanding the epoxy as to how smooth a finish you want to achieve) wash and rinse very well, then put at least 3 to 5 coats of the 2 part perfection plus, sanding between each coat. This will achieve a great "hard shell" over your wood as well as great uv protection. GREAT PRODUCT!

2014-02-26MIKE MOJZAK asked:Need to finish new slid teak and maple cabin sole. Is this the product to do it or do you recommend a different product?

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2014-02-26JERRY STEENSON:I don't know how this stuff will work on teak. I've only used it on walnut, and it seems pretty much bomb-proof there. However, if Interlux says specifically that it works on teak, and gives detailed prep instructions that you can actually implement, I would be inclined to take them on their word.

2014-02-26RANDY BOGARDUS:I use this product on custom wood paddleboards I sell. It is a great product and I would highly recommend it for hard use areas. One word of caution, however; use only the best organic vapor respirator you can get your hands on. The fumes from this stuff are not to be triffled with!

2014-02-26ROBERT SANDERS:This product is like an epoxy and is very hard, but it scratches easier than varnish and might leave a white mark. I used it to finish an expensive wooden kayak and was pleased. Hope that helps.

2014-02-27Weaver Lilley:This product produces an amazing finish. On anything you would like to varnish, this is an amazing substitute fort he traditional marine product.
It gives you a surface that is astonishing glossy and durable. The downside is the price and the difficulties of application. Since it is 2 part, you have a limited window of time to lay down your coat (of which you will need a minimum of 3).
On the positive side, after you screw up the first coat, you have 2 more (with sanding) chances to get it right.
In the end, all said and done, you've got a jaw dropping finish.

2014-02-28PAUL MARSHALL:As a first time user of any kind of varnish, I was worried about screwing it up. A hondurous mahogany transom is a place that errors will show up and I wanted it to be perfect. Perfection Plus went on like a dream and performed perfectly for me. It has only been 6 months, so I can't report on UV protection, but none of my fears were well founded. Be sure to follow the mixing ratio closely (really simple with a set of measuring cups from the kitchen) and a good brush.
Interlux tech support was also very helpful in answering my endless questions.

2013-08-03CINDY OLIPHANT asked:We are hoping to finish a raw wood spruce deck with this product. The deck is covered and the homeowner wants a high gloss finish. Will it require 5 to 7 coats? The 660 sq ft per gallon coverage is for one coat?

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2013-08-08MIKE PALUMBO:Should be able to get away with 5 coats - 7 sounds like alot. Have you ever used this product - maintaining a wet edge on such a large surface could be tricky for a first time job

2013-08-24SHAWN SOEDER:Yes, 660 square feet per gallon is for one coat. This assumes a wet film thickness of 2.4 mils which will dry to about 1.2 mils.
I believe the manufacturer's recommened number of coats is based on providing a reasonable amount of thickness for UV protection of the underlying surface. So how much sun exposure will the deck get? And what is the climate (I.e. tropical)?
I've on used this finish to coat a mahogany boat deck, but if used for a home deck I would be careful about the slipperiness when wet, as it may require an additive for the final coat (SharkGrip or equivalent).

2013-06-04USSAIL1454 . asked:Will this product work on carbon fiber mast to protect it from UV?

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2013-06-04ROBERT SANDERS:I used it on a wooden kayak and the carbon fiber coming and rudder about 4 years ago.
I've had no problems. I would recommend it.

2013-06-04JERRY STEENSON:It should. It protects from UV, so the only question is whether it sticks to the mast, but I would think that it should do that without any problem. The only thing would be to follow the directions for cleaning epoxy first, since the mast is probably made with epoxy.

2013-06-05RICK NEUBAUER:Do not know? Sorry

2012-04-17DENNIS OELLERS asked:I am getting ready to refinsih exterior trim on my sailboat. There is what appears to an epoxy-type varnish on it (that has lasted a full 7 years that I have the boat) but now is wearing thin, in certain areas, like the corners, edges of companionway, bin boards, etc. The old finish has a slightly opague look, although the grain is still visible. I want to refinish but not take everthing down to bare wood, since there is still 80% good coverage. I have puchased the above product for this purpose, but haven't started applying it yet.
A) Would Interlux Perfection Plus be a proper product to use over the sanded old varish( assuming it is epoxy) as well as sanded bare wood areas?
B) What color (tone) does this product impart to bare wood?
C) Does it darken the natural wood color?
D) Can I use a darker stain on the bare wood prior to use, or can I add a brown colorant to the varnish to try to match other wood trim on boat? I f so, what do you suggest?

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2012-05-02MICHAEL DARNELL:dennis

2012-05-02MICHAEL DARNELL:perfection would work great for your worn areas. make sure to sand the old trim first. you might have to do some blending of the worn areas with stain to match what is under the old varnish-epoxy, which is hard to do but beats sanding the old stuff back to bare wood. my experience is if those areas are the same color, then overcoat, if not then your going to have to start with bare wood. the perfection is clear and wont make the wood change colors, other than a very slight opaque wet look. perfection has good uv blockers which prevents the wood from coloring. I have never added color to perfection, but i have confided in the boys in the jamestown paint dept about different applications, and have found them to be very helpfull. hopefully the bare edges on your trim are the same color as whats under the finish and you can over coat. good luck. mike

2012-05-14BOB INGRAM:Hello Dennis,
We just finished applying the Interlux Perfection Plus two part varnish on the mahogany windows and doors of our historic office building in downtown Brunswick, GA.
I choose the two part varnish over the standard marine varnish because I wanted to extend the time in between refinishing. It was $2000 in labor to strip and sand the windows and doors so spending a little extra on paint is a good investment. I was unwilling to risk going over the top of the old marine varnish - I would leave that question to the manufacturer of the product.
The mahogany took on a deep red color when painted just like it did with standard marine varnish. I have a lighter mahogany wood on the back doors and they did not change much.
The two part varnish has quite a smell until it dries. We also used a stripper after wash to clean the brushes. It was the only thing we found that would work.
Good Luck
Bob

2012-05-17WILLIAM YOUNG:I have only used the product on bare wood over several projects. Instructions do allow for use over old varvish if it is sound.
The product mixes a little milky but clears up in about ten minutes and "deepens" color rather than darken. I would not add anything other than thinner and this for first coat.
I did find that the product tacks in about two hours. Additional coats will not run at this point and sanding between coats is eliminated.
Be sure to buy the quart of thinner to clean brushes and thin the first coat. Acetone will not work.

I purchased this varnish in order to do some tests for a larger project. I found the packaging very good, the mixing easy and brush application very satisfactory. Good coverage, great wet-out and a perfect urethane gloss.

Adhesion appears to be excellent and in six months outdoors it has mainatined a perfect gloss so I expect to see it around in 4 years or so.

Like many finishes the application and drying take some getting use to and clibration. In order to get the smooth gloss one has to use it at cooler temperatures around 60 to 65. Much warmer and it drys too fast for good wet-out.

Next problem is to get it cured before the evening dew gets to it. As a yacht varnish to be used outdoors it is very difficult to find the right "window" of time and temperature to assure it is dry prior to the evening dew. Too early in the day and the substrate is still damp, too late and there is moisture damage overnight. I ended up covering the job the night before to keep the surface dry, putting the Perfection on as soon as the fog cleared and then forcing the drying with IR lamps and covering the forced coating for the next evening. Beautiful!

Finally used foam brush and let induce for 40 minutes with 35% thinner.....then Applied with a single brush stroke to each area, brushing Real SLOW and I would not get any bubbles forming up 5 or 10 minutes later....Only got the Centerboard Perfectly bubble free....

The deck, which was larger area, Always gave off tiny bubbles, no mater what technique I tried...and I tried them all...I put 8 coats on over sealed epoxy wood, sanding 400 wet between coats, using interlux thinner for wipedown and waiting 1 hour or more to varnish...BUT..the Gloss is Awsome!!..I just have to live with the microscopic bubbles that would form.

Just used this over West System Clear epoxy on decks of my mahogany runabout for first time. Despite some varnishes advertising being clear, they often have slight color (didn't want varnish to discolor deck seems). This product is clear and very glossy. I was able to apply 3 coats back to back as a base and then two more(roll and tip). Came out great. Can't vouch for durability yet but am very pleased vs. regular varnish so far even taking cost into consideration.

This is not the easiest varnish to apply. There are many factors that effect the outcome, such as temperature, time of day applied, dew point, sun, and amount of thinner (2333N) added.

The cost is also a factor, but you get what you pay for.

I have used Interthane Plus (now called Perfection) for about 20 years on my Egg Harbor and have been extremely pleased with it durability and retention of gloss. When fully cured, it is as tough as nails.