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But as competition heated up, the Cafe Rouge brand decided to exit the city.

The chain is owned by the huge Casual Dining Group, which also owns Bella Italia and Las Iguanas, both of which have outlets in Plymouth.

Prior to its life as a purveyor of boeuf bourguignon and crêpe au four, the building was less Franco more franking – it was a post office.

Coming soon HOST, a new gallery for the former Cafe Rouge space (Image: Penny Cross)

Known as the Postal Telegraph Office, it was built in 1848 at a cost of £3,000 from designs by Oswald Arthur.

It superseded Plymouth’s previous post office, which had been in Bilbury Street and which had only been expanded three years earlier following Rowland Hill’s Penny Postage Act of 1939, which prompted a huge increase in the amount of post being sent around the country.

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The Casual Dining Group may have pulled out of the building, but it continues to operate Bella Italia outlets at Barbican Leisure Park and Derry’s Cross, and a Las Iguanas at Royal William Yard.

But the company has not been immune to the casual dining crunch and the group has decided to expand its off high-street presence and is looking to transport hubs and overseas markets.

The Victorian post office building when it was a Cafe Rouge eatery

It is targeting concession sites at airports and franchising deals with restaurant operators abroad as its high street outlets are being squeezed by a crunch which has already damaged rival chains including Prezzo, Byron Burger, Carluccio’s and even Frankie and Benny’s.

In March 2018 Casual Dining Group chief executive Steve Richards complained of being hit by rising costs, business rates and food price inflation.

The firm has created a brand called Stack & Grill which will deliver grub cooked by staff in Cafe Rouge kitchens.

The group is also planning the launch of a range of Bella Italia pizzas, pastas and sauces in a major supermarket in September as it tries to enter the home cooking ready-meal market.

Casual Dining Crunch: which restaurants are feeling the pain – and who’s doing well

Many restaurants are struggling due to a combination of factors including rising costs and falling consumer spending.

Accountancy firm Deloitte said like-for-like sales growth in British restaurants fell in the 18 months from December 2015 and was slower than cost inflation.

So who is calling for the bill and who’s ordering dessert?

Struggling:

Byron Burger – former star player is closing 12 branches, is £71.5million in debt and can’t confirm its plan to open in Plymouth’s Drake Circus Leisure multiplex.

Frankie & Benny’s/Chiquito – owner the Restaurant Group (which also owns Garfunkel’s, Brunning and Price, Coast to Coast and Joe’s Kitchen) is considering selling some prime sites and “exploring options” for other restaurants in its estate. Plymouth has Frankie & Benny’s and Chiquito at Barbican Leisure Park.

Pizza Express - The company, which has two large restaurants in Plymouth, blamed business rates, rents and rising food prices for taking a slice out of earnings – and said it remains “cautious” about its short-term prospects . The restaurant group’s operating profit dropped 8.9 per cent in the year to December 31, 2017, to £94.6 million.

Prezzo – is closing 94 of its 300 restaurants, but Plymouth’s Royal William Yard branch will survive.

Jamie’s Italian – chain owned by celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has entered a company voluntary agreement (CVA) and will shut 12 restaurants, after facing pre-tax losses of £9.9million in 2016.

All Bar One/Toby Carvery – owner Mitchells and Butlers blamed economic and political uncertainty for its decision to cancel its next dividend in late 2017. Industry experts say All Bar One has been slashing prices. There is a Toby Carvery at Roborough, Plymouth.

Revolution - The bar chain which brought the Wotsits burger to the South West is facing the crunch after issuing a profit warning in June 2018. In March 2018, the company announced a half-year loss of £3.72million.

Thriving:

Just Eat - While mid-market restaurants struggle, online takeaway delivery firm Just Eat has served up its 400millionth order in the UK, helping the firm post rising first quarter sales. Revenue across the group rose 49 per cent to £177.4million in the three months to March 31, 2018 as it booked a 32 per cent jump in orders to 51.6million.

Nando’s – the chain with Plymouth branches at Old Town Street and Barbican Leisure Park reported an increase in revenue and gross profit in the year to February 2017.

Wagamama – the Asian food chain, with a large unit at Royal William Yard and confirmed plans to open at Bretonside’s Drake Circus Leisure multiplex, saw profit after tax, staff and restaurant numbers grow in the year to April 2017.

Zizzi – the chain, another confirmed for Drake Circus Leisure, recorded a 12.5 per cent increase in sales to £262.8million for the year to July 2107, though has been accused by some observers of fueling this by discounting prices and Deliveroo sales eating into restaurant turnover.

Turtle Bay - the Caribbean grub chain made a £12million profit in 2017. The company, which introduced Plymothians to the delights of goat curry and the Marley Mojito cocktail when it opened in the city in October 2017, has seen profits jump by a jaw-dropping 70 per cent.