Hey, Akarob, I just watched the vids again and I noticed you sit a lot more than me, I have to try that more, any suggestions? Thanks

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I suggest that you don't look to me for advice. Standing is better. I'm just not in as good of shape as I should be so my stilts get tired. I do stand when it gets lumpy though. Sitting is fine until your tailbone gets whacked by your seat like a sledgehammer and you almost go over the bars, or worse. Just sayin. The only time getting on the seat helps is in a sharp turn. My best advice is keep your feet on the pegs, always, without exception - well, at least one foot. Using your legs as part of your suspension will smooth things out a lot.

2014? I dunno, I kind of like the east coast here. Landscape isn't as epic, but the weather is a lot milder. Once you've experienced a 115 degree desert, you'll know. Nice video though.

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Virginia City on it's own is a fun place to visit. The road up from Reno is a twisty canyon road and the local VC color is, uh, interesting.

I rode parts of the course, but never raced it, and have pitted for a buddy and his wife who do it almost every year. The start is total mayhem, bikes dropping on pavement and the first two dirt turns never disappoint the spectators.

But the 115 is a dry heat and it usually cools down 35 or more degrees at night...

What I miss most is all the open space riding. One could ride every weekend and not ride the same trail twice, Sand Mountain and the motocross tracks that just pop up out of nowhere.

In regards to the 110 rear tire.. Last year I was looking for a more aggressive front tire for my F650gs which has an annoying 19" front wheel. I was also looking for a cheaper tire than the TKC80 I usually run up front.. I found a 19" Motorcross rear tire that was bi-directional and had the same dimensions as my TKC so I ordered it.. A Dunlop GeoMax. Probably not DOT approved..

Two things: First. the layout and design of the knobs on a rear tire are a bit different than a front tire and while I was able to get used to the handling of that tire up front I would NOT do it again. It was real sketchy, especially when it was new, but I also put well over a thousand street miles on it which is not what it's designed for, even on the rear wheel!Second. The tire was huge compared to my TKC with the same specs on the sidewall. I think they were both 110/80-19. I'm not sure why they were actually so much different.. My F650gs has a low fender that's mounted to a fork brace (standard forks, not USD's) and I had to add 3/4" spacers under the low fender to clear tire and I also had to remove the brake caliper and remount it after the wheel was installed since the tire was too wide to fit around it.. [if anyone wants a used 19" rear tire the knobs are worn but only in one direction and mostly just the center row. Free if you can pick it up]

I'll admit that tire sizes are sort of mysterious to me.. I'm sure there's a reason but I can't figure out why the second number (110/80-19) isn't simply width rather than ratio? And do the first two numbers mean the size of the "carcass" part of the tire rather than the outer edge of the knobs?

I'm oncall that weekend so will be missing Hoot's and the CnR. Last year's Hoots was a bit too short so hopefully they extended it this year. Plus, last year was so much easier than the year before because it was dry. If it had been wet like 2011, the 50 miles would have been just right.

I would personally recommend a 110 if available. I find the 100/110 weighs a fair amount less...

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Example: 120/90-18

The first number represents the width in millimeters (in this case 120). It's important to note that this is measured to the sidewall. Different knobby tread patterns of dirt bike tires can extend out past the sidewall.

The second number refers to height as a percentage of the width. So in the example the width is 108mm (90% of 120).

The third number (18 in this instance) is simply the inside diameter of the tire expressed as rim size.

Actually, this is not the case. Well maybe, but only because the heavier tier has more mass. But in theory, if tire mass was similar across two given tire widths, the narrow(er) tire would have higher traction per square inch of contact patch. Think snow tires, skinny ones cut through the snow and the wider ones tend to 'float'

Actually, this is not the case. Well maybe, but only because the heavier tier has more mass. But in theory, if tire mass was similar across two given tire widths, the narrow(er) tire would have higher traction per square inch of contact patch. Think snow tires, skinny ones cut through the snow and the wider ones tend to 'float'

I think the whole "contact patch" idea is kinda flawed anyways when talking dirt bike tires. Really, how much more of a 130/90-18 makes contact to a hard flat surface vs a 110/100-18? To me a wider tire only matters when it's completely engulfed in loose dirt and all that extra surface area might be of value...

Actually, this is not the case. Well maybe, but only because the heavier tier has more mass. But in theory, if tire mass was similar across two given tire widths, the narrow(er) tire would have higher traction per square inch of contact patch. Think snow tires, skinny ones cut through the snow and the wider ones tend to 'float'

Physics does not always agree with intuition

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It depends of the surface as you said a skinnier tire cuts down into the snow alowing it to reach firm ground on a high traction surface such as asphalt wider is better which is why nascar doesnt run skinny bicycle tires. wider tires are also used for flotation such as deep botomless mud because teh skinny tire could never dig down to anything

Hardpack-you want short soft knobs and a wide tire.Sand/mud-the standard size with a more open spaced knob,that is taller with a stiffer sidewall. This goes for front and back.The idea is to have more tire in conact with hard terrain.Soft or sandy terrain-the narrow tire with wider spaced knobs is cutting in and cleaning better. IF you use a wide tire in sand-it will skate across.