...Might have something to do with the oil viscosity as mentioned above.

I think you'll find that oil viscosity change over even 20k miles for synthetic oil will be negligible, that's not the issue. It's a design or casting issue that was solved with a different part(s). That's not saying that the symptom couldn't happen even with the 'better' parts.

I'm going to call a local dealer today, I bought my 08 128i CPO from BMWToronto in June 2011. I specifically stated that I wanted ANY and ALL recalls performed in the 1-2 weeks that I had to wait for the car to be 'prepared' for me.

I now not only hear the ticking noise 3-4 months later but I now see that this was not performed at all. I am going to call a closer dealer to me today and check to see if they can perform this recall/tsb on my car within a couple of days because I am putting it away. Either that or I wait until I bring it back out in april

My dealer refuses to acknowledge the valve ticking. I moved and tried a new dealer closer to home and the service advisor all but had an actual argument with me about it, claiming that the ticking noise is the fuel injectors. So I asked him why the 328i loaner they gave me doesn't make the noise. His response? They have very different engines. Really?! Why is it so hard to find someone that knows how to do their jobs and truly knows the brand/products they support??? I HATE when the consumer is more educated than the brand rep.

My dealer refuses to acknowledge the valve ticking. I moved and tried a new dealer closer to home and the service advisor all but had an actual argument with me about it, claiming that the ticking noise is the fuel injectors. So I asked him why the 328i loaner they gave me doesn't make the noise. His response? They have very different engines. Really?! Why is it so hard to find someone that knows how to do their jobs and truly knows the brand/products they support??? I HATE when the consumer is more educated than the brand rep.

I took mine to the dealer and told them my engine had a bad ticking noise and said I did some research and stated it could be the valves need changed due to a defective part. They took my keys let the car sit till the next morning started it up and it ticked like crazy so they then replaced them that day no questions asked and no hassle. You should of asked him what engine was in the 128 and what engine was in the 328. Then go get someone in the dealer that actually knows to tell him what they have.

I took mine to the dealer and told them my engine had a bad ticking noise and said I did some research and stated it could be the valves need changed due to a defective part. They took my keys let the car sit till the next morning started it up and it ticked like crazy so they then replaced them that day no questions asked and no hassle. You should of asked him what engine was in the 128 and what engine was in the 328. Then go get someone in the dealer that actually knows to tell him what they have.

I love my dealer TISCHER BMW FTW!

Oh believe me, I mentioned at least twice that it's a known problem with the N51/N52 and that there's a TSB about it. I also offered to pull up the TSB on my phone for his reference. I also explained to him that my dad is a retired Porsche Master Technician (35 years) and so I have a fair amount of secondhand mechanical knowledge. I also mentioned that I have owned many older VWs and am VERY familiar with what tapping valves sound like because of it. I also explained that I have owned direct-injected cars before, as well as diesels, and so I'm familiar with what loud fuel injectors sound like. He really didn't like me alluding to knowing more about the car than he does.

Anyway, his solution was for me to come back when the shop foreman was working and let him listen to the noise and make a determination. Guess what days/times the shop foreman works? M-f, 9-5. Guess when I work? M-F, 6-6. Not to mention, to really hear the ticking the car needs to sit after a cold start. Grrrrrrr

Oh believe me, I mentioned at least twice that it's a known problem with the N51/N52 and that there's a TSB about it. I also offered to pull up the TSB on my phone for his reference. I also explained to him that my dad is a retired Porsche Master Technician (35 years) and so I have a fair amount of secondhand mechanical knowledge. I also mentioned that I have owned many older VWs and am VERY familiar with what tapping valves sound like because of it. I also explained that I have owned direct-injected cars before, as well as diesels, and so I'm familiar with what loud fuel injectors sound like. He really didn't like me alluding to knowing more about the car than he does.

Anyway, his solution was for me to come back when the shop foreman was working and let him listen to the noise and make a determination. Guess what days/times the shop foreman works? M-f, 9-5. Guess when I work? M-F, 6-6. Not to mention, to really hear the ticking the car needs to sit after a cold start. Grrrrrrr

Yeah you will never get the car to tick after driving a good distance to the dealer.

Took my car back to my original dealer (I moved at the end of October and the previously reported service problems were at a new to me dealer that's now closer to home). They verified the problem and they're replacing all the exhaust valves. Looks like I'll be using my original dealer for service from here on out, despite them not being the closest dealer.

Took my car back to my original dealer (I moved at the end of October and the previously reported service problems were at a new to me dealer that's now closer to home). They verified the problem and they're replacing all the exhaust valves. Looks like I'll be using my original dealer for service from here on out, despite them not being the closest dealer.

I'm curious, why are they changing the exhaust valves to fix a ticking sound caused by the hydraulic valve lash adjusters?

Did they do a cylinder pressures leak down test, that showed your exhaust valves are worn and not seating/sealing properly?

Per BMW, they can change the valve adjusters.
Why new exhaust valves?

As far as this ticking sound, in general, hydraulic valve adjusters commonly makes noise. And, in most of the cases it's not detrimental to the engine.
The ticking noise is often heard on cold start due to oil pressure needing to build up and pressurize the adjusters. Until the oil pressure goes up, and the oil thins enough so that it can enter the very small oil port to pressurize the adjuster, there will be a ticking sound.

Also, many times people misdiagnose their own engines by confusing injector tick from valve adjuster tick.

BMW isn't going to do a general recall as the NHTSA is not likely to issue a recall on a mechanical issue that is not related to safety. NHTSA doesn't do recalls for those types of issues.
BMW can issue an in house "recall", which they have, and it's called a "TSB". It's on a as-needed basis. If a customer comes in with a problem, the tech will use the TSB to see if it can address or fix the problem.
If the vehicle is under warranty, or the problem was documented during the warranty, then BMW will fix the issue.

This is why it is VERY important for those of you who suspect a valve lash adjuster problem, to report it to your dealer and have them document the issue during your warranty. If later it is determined that there is a problem that has a fix, you will have a remedy even after warranty.

I suspect the dealer is dumbing down the work being performed for my "benefit." They never seem to give me much credit for the extensive technical knowledge I have about cars and specifically German cars, but I digress. What I do know is that they're making a repair per the TSB that addresses ticking noises in the N51/N52. Personally, I don't know how anyone could mistake injector tick for valve tick, but I guess if you're not really familiar with the difference it might be hard to discern. When the new dealer I tried told me that what I was hearing was injector tick and not valve tick, I decided then that they probably weren't the dealer I wanted servicing my car.

I'm curious, why are they changing the exhaust valves to fix a ticking sound caused by the hydraulic valve lash adjusters?

Did they do a cylinder pressures leak down test, that showed your exhaust valves are worn and not seating/sealing properly?

Per BMW, they can change the valve adjusters.
Why new exhaust valves?

As far as this ticking sound, in general, hydraulic valve adjusters commonly makes noise. And, in most of the cases it's not detrimental to the engine.
The ticking noise is often heard on cold start due to oil pressure needing to build up and pressurize the adjusters. Until the oil pressure goes up, and the oil thins enough so that it can enter the very small oil port to pressurize the adjuster, there will be a ticking sound.

Also, many times people misdiagnose their own engines by confusing injector tick from valve adjuster tick.

BMW isn't going to do a general recall as the NHTSA is not likely to issue a recall on a mechanical issue that is not related to safety. NHTSA doesn't do recalls for those types of issues.
BMW can issue an in house "recall", which they have, and it's called a "TSB". It's on a as-needed basis. If a customer comes in with a problem, the tech will use the TSB to see if it can address or fix the problem.
If the vehicle is under warranty, or the problem was documented during the warranty, then BMW will fix the issue.

This is why it is VERY important for those of you who suspect a valve lash adjuster problem, to report it to your dealer and have them document the issue during your warranty. If later it is determined that there is a problem that has a fix, you will have a remedy even after warranty.

Good luck.

It would be very hard to confuse an injector tick with a valve tick. When it's the valves it sounds like a little hammer (ok medium size hammer) inside your engine tapping. Also the TSB says the exhaust valves were actually a possible defective valve part number (case by case basis). Since I have had mine replaced my car has done some ticking again. My suggestion if you live close to work take the long way so your oil will fully heat up (especially in the winter) and do as the manual says and not let your car sit and idle to warm it up in the morning (even in the winter) my 128i only ticks when...

A)I don't drive far enough to warm the engine up before shutting it back off but will not tick until I turn it on after a few short trips
or
B)I let it sit and idle for a few minutes after starting it up in the morning

Most people will tell you to not drive right away as soon as you start your car up on a cold morning. My engine doesn't seem to tick ever since I have been just driving off right after start up. (My engine tick also would speed up with the engine RPMs. I would have been able to notice the ticking if it was there.)

I have an 07' 323i - I have gone down this path to the point where my dealer replaced the cylinder head about a year ago. The ticking is back and i'm quite frustrated as the car is now out of warranty. Apparently if "this" ticking is related to the warranty work that has already been performed it'll be covered. Time will tell. I know that they replaced the old N51 with an N52 head.

Has anyone else had the their head replaced without success? I'd be interested to find out what happened.

I went through this with my old 328. I recall a number of forum members had replaced lifters/tappets and heads (finally) and the ticking returned. The problem seems to be the lifter/tappet design. My SA refused to do any work and said it wont hurt the car, but I am glad I got rid of it b/c that drove me nuts. GL

Hi guys havent been on here in a little while due to work, but my 125i (2008 model) has just started ticking again. I suspect its due to me doing shorter trips of late. I originally had some ticking early on which was also associated with short trips.
I will give it a long drive today to see if it rectifies it.
But im just wondering if it persists will bmw bear the costs or is it that its out of official warranty that it will have to be rectified at my own costs.

Ticking has returned for me but only once every so often.... When I take short trips or let the car idle after start up when it is cold outside.

Cure for ticking = longer drives + no idling after start up

Do as the manual says just start driving after you start the car even when its cold outside.

These are the only things I do and my car rarely ticks now. It was ticking like crazy when I lived 3 miles from work. The engine never fully warmed up and I am pretty sure that is the biggest problem. I also noticed when it started getting cold out this last winter that letting your car idle after start up to let it warm up brings the ticking back as well.