Description

It's weird that at Rumney there is a crag that hasn't seen much traffic, and it is 150+ in height without the lower ledges of broken rock grooves to trees and dangerous steep dirt slopes included. The middle of the crag is high mica content and some dangerous finned rock protrusions similar to the Hinderland's crag's content. These mica rock fins were once in middle of the route 'Jolt'. The dangerous fins were taken out and dropped below. The upper part of Wonderland is lichen covered with better or usual Rattlesnake rock quality directly up and west. There is a long white Quartz extrusion here on the east side. East to this Quartz extrusion is a 40ft high dike. The opposite wall of the dike is a very steep bulging lichen free section 50ft high. The dike and this wall begin below at a protrusion of rock with pine trees above that. The big fire lit the crag's upper east side a little. Couldn't see any of the western upper side of this crag. Not a place for everyone or for that matter anyone yet unless you are experienced in this kind of climbing at Rattlesnake. It's Wonderland it's an adventure. The hiking trail is directly below this crag. I listed it as Alpine because of the lichen covered sections, the soft mica quality rock in some places and the inability to loose control of any loose rocks.

Getting There

Hike towards the Hinderland's. The crag begins at the hand crack called Wrong Crack. Above that is a gully and left of the gully a steep ramp wall. Left of that is a large protrusion of rock and above that a wall that looks more like stacked boulders. 'Giant Man' buttress is above this area or left of it on the highest hillside section of Wonderland. This is where there used to be ladder to go down onto a ramp ledge with a eye bolt and trees. The climb 'Rocket Science is here. Nothing has been replaced to assist entry to this side yet.

I've been looking at this lonely crack for years and just hadn't gotten around to it. It's on the trail pretty much between Triple Corners and Hinterlands.Its short but sweet, Just don't blow the last move cause it could get sour really quick.Climb up in to the perfect finger crack which turns to stacks and then heads left with funky jams and slick feet. Eventually you hit good hand jams and a stance to catch your breath. Place good gear as high as you can and exit the crack to the face above. D...[more]Browse More Classics in NH

I kind of like the name "Wonderland". When I checked it out years ago, I was all excited about the amount of rock that was up there too, but was put off by the loose, broken, vegetated approach. It may be worth another look for those willing to put in a lot of work, but like Bradley says, you are way above the approach trail, the edge of Triple Corners and even the Starship Enterprise Crag, so you would have to be super careful about anything cutting loose. I don't think it is worth having a bunch of fixed lines and ladders just to get up to a few mediocre routes. Somebody had a bunch of crap up there before, but I reduced it to the one ladder and moved it to where it is now to make it look better. With an imaginative way of dealing with the approach you might find something good though.

If you are looking for new route potential you may be better off looking up in the area around Very Nice Crack, up and left of Flea Surgeon (funky approach, maybe drop in from above like the Verdon), or one of the craglets above Bonsai (Pauly's Paradise). I won't tell you the other places yet ;)

ooooo my bad i didnt realize it was already posted... the guide book has it under hinterlands so i posted it there... if you want to take mine down thats fine but my description is a bit more in depth so i think it could be useful...

Sounds good to me. Maybe everything above the gully with the fixed line from Triple Corners, up to where you would skirt around to get to the ladder. There is interesting lower angled rock to the right of the gully leading up to The Crows Nest, but I feel it would entail too much destruction to a picturesque ecosystem to put up routes there. I guess that could be called Wonderland too though, as it is beautiful. I would recommend not climbing Wonderland opposite Giantman to protect all the ferns. Ward is going to have to do a new book soon!

Sounds good ill move my new route... i agree whole heartedly about that wall of ferns i would love to see that stay the way it is... so pretty... I was eyeing it the other day but it wouldnt be worth killing such a cool eco system...

When we were talking about the fern garden and suggesting that it be preserved, we were talking about the wall up the gully further, opposite Giantman, not where you were climbing. I don't think either of us were mocking you or your adventurous climb at all.

wow bradley... first off as mark said we were not making fun of you in any way.... your post was a total blind side... our posts were unrelated to you and your route... you couldnt be more wrong about me... i was just looking at your route "Fixing a hole" the other day (thinking it hadnt been done) and talking to my friend about climbing it cause it looked like a cool feature... i love that kind of climbing and i commend you on the adventure climbs you do... it seems like the internet way would be to continue the negativity... i cant stant that stuff, so here... im willing to strike all the mean things you said about me from the record if you relax little and be willing to shake my hand when you see me at the crag... this is supposed to be a supportive climbing community and i do my best to live that way...