Description

Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top.

Location

One of the first climbs you encounter when walking in. Starts in a left-facing corner.

This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.

Definitely watch out for that mixup in that shiny new guidebook, especially since that 12a next door has a high first bolt with a difficult section up to it...trust me I fell off it completely baffled by the difficulty of these "10a" moves. Further inspection of the photographs in the guidebook revealed the problem. Fun route, once you're on it...

Yes, I think there is a mistake in the picture of the Obed guidebook. It seems that route #4 pictured in the guidebook is Tarantella, not Alien. The photos on MP seem to show the correct route line of Tarantella.

I'm very grateful I checked here before heading to the Obed. I was told this was a must-do 10a and we wouldn't have known the guidebook was wrong without this page. Probably the most fun 10a I've lead with really interesting movement.