Perfect Pass
I went through my Email receipts from PP and saw that after calling PP and explaining my issue they offered me the display for $190 and free shipping. That was back in August of 2011, not sure what their position on the replacement would be now. Great Lakes Skipper is showing a white one on Ebay for $205 with free shipping. I'm told they will deal if you call them directly but I have not personally bought anything from them.

Water Intrusion
My 07 X2 leaks too but not that bad and I notice it most after skiing so I'm sure some of it is the water people are bringing into the boat after being in the water. I know we spill a lot of water when filling sacks for surfing however I'm pretty sure the majority still has to be coming from elsewhere.
I've been slowly stemming the flow as I've tracked down the leaks these past couple years. The first one I found was the plastic drain plug in the hull by the front pump. The plastic plug strips fairly easy so I replaced it with the bronze version we've all known and loved from our older MCs. The second was the rudder port. Not sure which rudder port the SS uses but 4 years of pumping grease into mine seems to be helping here. On my rudder box there is a seal you can replace but I've been to lazy to take the time to replace it. Another place to check is the dripless shaft seal on the prop shaft. These can leak if the surfaces of the seal get dirty.

Stereo
Had the same problem with mine when I had a marginal battery. I went to higher capacity Blue Tops and did a dual battery install and haven't had a problem since. Here's the link to my install....

Another thing to look at
Assuming you have ballast tanks, you may want to check how the pumps are mounted. Mine were mounted with the pump over the electric motor. This was changed in later years as if the pump stared leaking it would leak into the electric motor and tear up the bearing causing the entire pump to fail. It's a pretty easy job to flip the rear two pumps and mount the pump assembly with the motors on top of the pump heads. doing so now will same you some buck down the road.
If your pumps are making noise you may be able to rebuild them as one of the members has found and is selling the pump parts on his website.

Rear Bilge
First check the circuit breaker. If tripped, naturally it won't run, nor will the switch light up. After resetting, turn on switch and watch it carefully as you do. If it lights up momentarily or a few seconds then at least you know it is getting power. If the light does goes out, that means the breaker is tripped again. In that case, it's often that the motor is either stuck or seized, and that trips the breaker. Stuck motors occur when they haven't operated for a while or there is just debris/gunk that has settled. Could just need to be manually unstuck and then may continue to work just fine after that.

I highly recommend the dual battery install. I use the automatic relay method vs. a manual switch, but they accomplish the same thing. Plenty of accesory power and not getting stuck with a dead cranking battery after floating with the music on!

I went through my Email receipts from PP and saw that after calling PP and explaining my issue they offered me the display for $190 and free shipping. That was back in August of 2011, not sure what their position on the replacement would be now. Great Lakes Skipper is showing a white one on Ebay for $205 with free shipping. I'm told they will deal if you call them directly but I have not personally bought anything from them.

My 07 X2 leaks too but not that bad and I notice it most after skiing so I'm sure some of it is the water people are bringing into the boat after being in the water. I know we spill a lot of water when filling sacks for surfing however I'm pretty sure the majority still has to be coming from elsewhere.

I've been slowly stemming the flow as I've tracked down the leaks these past couple years. The first one I found was the plastic drain plug in the hull by the front pump. The plastic plug strips fairly easy so I replaced it with the bronze version we've all known and loved from our older MCs. The second was the rudder port. Not sure which rudder port the SS uses but 4 years of pumping grease into mine seems to be helping here. On my rudder box there is a seal you can replace but I've been to lazy to take the time to replace it. Another place to check is the dripless shaft seal on the prop shaft. These can leak if the surfaces of the seal get dirty.

Stereo

Had the same problem with mine when I had a marginal battery. I went to higher capacity Blue Tops and did a dual battery install and haven't had a problem since. Here's the link to my install....

Assuming you have ballast tanks, you may want to check how the pumps are mounted. Mine were mounted with the pump over the electric motor. This was changed in later years as if the pump stared leaking it would leak into the electric motor and tear up the bearing causing the entire pump to fail. It's a pretty easy job to flip the rear two pumps and mount the pump assembly with the motors on top of the pump heads. doing so now will same you some buck down the road.

If your pumps are making noise you may be able to rebuild them as one of the members has found and is selling the pump parts on his website.

Awesome thanks for all the help dude! I will check all those things when I get back home!

I just wish it would get warm enough to even consider boating here. Flake is awesome and you will get many compliments, extremely hard to capture in pictures.

Definitely wasn't warm enough yesterday, but it was bearable and my youngest brother did go into the water and surfed. Boat put out an awesome surf wave, could be better once I put in the piggyback setup from wakemakers.

Rear Bilge
First check the circuit breaker. If tripped, naturally it won't run, nor will the switch light up. After resetting, turn on switch and watch it carefully as you do. If it lights up momentarily or a few seconds then at least you know it is getting power. If the light does goes out, that means the breaker is tripped again. In that case, it's often that the motor is either stuck or seized, and that trips the breaker. Stuck motors occur when they haven't operated for a while or there is just debris/gunk that has settled. Could just need to be manually unstuck and then may continue to work just fine after that.

I highly recommend the dual battery install. I use the automatic relay method vs. a manual switch, but they accomplish the same thing. Plenty of accesory power and not getting stuck with a dead cranking battery after floating with the music on!

Beautiful boat--congratulations

Thanks a lot and I will put in an additional battery this week sometime and have cleared the front motor and that one is fine now. Gotta do the rest and it'll all be fine.

Does the leaking boat have a heater? If so, trace supply and return hoses between the engine and the core while the boat is running to be sure no leaks anywhere in the system. First hand experience with that one - my leak was at a hose to barb fitting at the heater core.

Does the leaking boat have a heater? If so, trace supply and return hoses between the engine and the core while the boat is running to be sure no leaks anywhere in the system. First hand experience with that one - my leak was at a hose to barb fitting at the heater core.