There's quite a bit of information by Damascusannie right under the photo. She knows a LOT about National machines!!

Originally Posted by SewExtreme

Found a machine like this in a consignment store. Does anyone know anything about a Coronado? I like the turn wheel on it for some silly reason. The person is asking $75 but without me trying to dicker the price she lowered it to $50. It has the cabinet also like the one in the photo. Any info would be much appreciated! :-D

So, do you ever really get a perfect tension on the old machines? I have a black 301 that I LUV. I use it but the tension has always been a "tad" off. There is always a tiny bit showing either top or bottom. And my top tension will be awful if I do anything other than between 0-1

I have a tan 301 that i'm not so in love with. Doesn't sound the same as the black one and I just can't bond with it yet. I can NOT get the tension even remotely good on this one. It's "ok" but not right. I'm tempted to pop it in the cabinet and use it just to be using it and hoping it works out some on it's own. I'm seriously thiking of sending it to Billy in a few months for a makeover. I love red. Maybe I would LUV it in red :)

Now I know why I would always hear my mom bit*hing about the tension :oops:

If you can assemble a quilt you can do this: I would take the whole thing apart - yup take it apart. No kids. No pets. No DH. 'o/ Keep a muffin pan around and put the parts in it in order as you take it off. Use the tension diagram in the manual. A lot of the old manuals have instructions to take the tension apart and put it back together. (The first time I did one I was very nervous - I shook the whole time.) Just go slow - look at it carefully as you go. Clean EVERYTHING real good and put it back together according to the diagram. I amaze myself every time I do one. I don't even need the diagram anymore. I just routinely clean the tension when I get an old machine. Dried up oil can cause drag and rust or burrs can break threads - dust bunnies need to come out all makes the tension messed.. Hey if nothing else you can run some dental floss through there and pick up some of it. I just like the feel of it when I've taken it apart and cleaned it. Keep another machine right next to you so you can look at it as you reassemble. Here is an expanded diagram. It is the only one I know of with the picture of the pin. It is from sewclassic's catalog - I hope Jenny doesn't mind. http://shop.sew-classic.com/Tension-...572-125417.htm I posted it a couple pages back as well. If it doesn't go back together right take it apart and do it again. Pay attention to how that spring goes when you take it apart and in the diagram and in the other machine you have next to you. You can do this. You have made quilts. You have cooked. Go slow and don't worry it has been done before. If it is any help the service manual has about the same instructions as the owner's manual. They must have meant for the owner to take that tension apart on occasion. I do have one that doesn't work. It needs some adjustment on the presser lever. I haven't done that - the machine isn't turning and needs a total spa treatment some time.

Now, I have the problem of... my plastic machines just don't give me the satisfaction that this one does - so I'd love to find an old machine that does a zig-zag (love the look of the 301s, but I don't think they do it). Does anyone have any recommendations for me?

THanks!
D~

SerendipiD, welcome aboard! You did a great job on the Model 15-91? I can't tell for sure, but the picture looks like maybe a potted motor, which means a 15-91!

Nancy

THank you. :) Yes, it is a potted motor - a 15-91. I just love that machine. :)

So, do you ever really get a perfect tension on the old machines? I have a black 301 that I LUV. I use it but the tension has always been a "tad" off. There is always a tiny bit showing either top or bottom. And my top tension will be awful if I do anything other than between 0-1

I have a tan 301 that i'm not so in love with. Doesn't sound the same as the black one and I just can't bond with it yet. I can NOT get the tension even remotely good on this one. It's "ok" but not right. I'm tempted to pop it in the cabinet and use it just to be using it and hoping it works out some on it's own. I'm seriously thiking of sending it to Billy in a few months for a makeover. I love red. Maybe I would LUV it in red :)

Now I know why I would always hear my mom bit*hing about the tension :oops:

Julie, my 301 is also weird about its tension. We put a brand new tensioner on it when I got it, because the old one was just dead. Now I do have to set the tension down between 0-1, and it's still a little tight. I tightened up the bobbin tension some, and that helped.

Found a machine like this in a consignment store. Does anyone know anything about a Coronado? I like the turn wheel on it for some silly reason. The person is asking $75 but without me trying to dicker the price she lowered it to $50. It has the cabinet also like the one in the photo. Any info would be much appreciated! :-D

Linda, I think that's a badged White...there were a couple for sale on shopgoodwill.com recently, and they both had different names, but looked exactly like a White that was on there too. My "edumacated" guess!! :thumbup:

Not long ago the question of when the first FW 221s came out was asked. I was just looking at the serial number records, and it looks like the first run started Oct 1933. For 2 years before that, at least, there are no 221s listed.

Janice the first FW's were introduced a the Chicago World's Fair in 1933 - so 1933 would be the first run of the FW series! I'd love to find one of the first!

Nancy

Nancy, there is one on eBay right now, but he's asking BIG $$ for it!! And it's a very early one. He knows it and put that in the ad. That's why I looked back for 2 years to verify his claim.

You are one lucky lady!! I'd like to see a picture of the cabinet of your Singer 15-88. Looks like one I just recently bought.

Texas Jan

Here you go! My 'go to' machine. He does it all, plus has reverse!

Nancy

Yep that is the one. Mine was electrified. I can't see any sign by way of scratches or use marks that my cabinet ever was completely outfitted to be a treadle machine. She was made in 1948 (my birth year) AH701263. She has had quite a bit of use. I will restore the cabinet if it ever cools down enough here in Texas. Here are her before pictures. I paid $50.00 for her in a garage sale.

Texas Jan

Yep, Texas Jan, that is the same cabinet. I doubt it was ever a treadle cabinet. That straight leg cabinet was (I think) about the last model cabinet used for a treadle so it makes sense it was also used with the 15-90 and 15-91. Remember, my 15-88 is a 1939 model! I love those 15's!

Monica, Vintagemotiff, also has a straight leg cabinet - although, I am not sure which machine came with it, but hers is a treadle!

Nancy

Yes, I have a straight-leg cabinet. I have had many machine heads reside in the cabinet. First, the machine that came with the cabinet, Singer 15GB168, and then the Singer 201. After that, I made the modification to hold the National Two Spools. And now, it holds my Singer 328K, Hank the Tank.

I will post a photo of a Singer 15GB168 in the photo thread. Yes, there is such a thing as a 15GB168; the machine has a plate with this id. And the machine has the RAF decals. I forgot about this machine. It has pretty decals, but I'm not attracted to this machine as I'm to my others.

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

They keep multiplying. Tuesday night when I missed out on the 403 because my daughter needed me, for some reason, I bought a 1953 Admiral for a whopping $7. It looked like a Necchi clone to me. It has a Matsushita motor, but it has no light. I wish I'd known that. It was listed at 17 pounds, so it shipped very inexpensively. Ha - it's another 29-30 pounder. Look at this foot pedal.

The tension spring is up at 12:00 instead of at 9:00, so the thread can't catch in it. It still sews very well. Another one I wouldn't want to have to take out. The feed dogs drop, but no ZZ.

The needle is huge and the bobbin had upholstery thread in it. What did she sew in her former life? A strange thing - the machine is open underneath the cross bar. Nothing between me and the long bar. Saved metal, but odd. I wish I had a manual for this one. It threads like the Necchi, but I am probably going to have dismantle the tension. As it's a front tension, the diagram miriam linked should be close enough. I found a manual online, but I'm not paying $10 for a manual for a $7 machine.

Billy, what do use to I repair the spot where the finish is damaged? Her cleaning will have to wait. I'm busy with a quilt.

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

D~

NO plastic in an all metal machine, at least for the Singer 15-90/91.

might as well try making them stupid plastic bobbins into Christmas ornaments or something useful

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

D~

NO plastic in an all metal machine, at least for the Singer 15-90/91.

might as well try making them stupid plastic bobbins into Christmas ornaments or something useful

Heehee! that could be cute.

I had posted the difference of the 15 vs 66 once here, but I can't find my post right now, and I can't find my photos that I thought I saved of the bobbins (must of trashed them). So, I will try to take photos of the different bobbins again. Might be later this evening that the photos get posted.

Start with the bottom tension. When you get it set right, THEN set the top. If you're unsure how to set the bobbin tension, there are several checklists online that will help.

Originally Posted by jtapp9

So, do you ever really get a perfect tension on the old machines? I have a black 301 that I LUV. I use it but the tension has always been a "tad" off. There is always a tiny bit showing either top or bottom. And my top tension will be awful if I do anything other than between 0-1

I have a tan 301 that i'm not so in love with. Doesn't sound the same as the black one and I just can't bond with it yet. I can NOT get the tension even remotely good on this one. It's "ok" but not right. I'm tempted to pop it in the cabinet and use it just to be using it and hoping it works out some on it's own. I'm seriously thiking of sending it to Billy in a few months for a makeover. I love red. Maybe I would LUV it in red :)

Now I know why I would always hear my mom bit*hing about the tension :oops:

I'm the opposite - I'd sooner take the upper tension apart than fool with the lower tension

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

D~

Okay, I couldn't wait until evening. It's my lunchtime; so, I took some pictures since it was faster than trying to figure out where my post is located. Singer Class 66 bobbins have a curve to them while Singer Class 15 bobbins are flat. The newer metal bobbins that are sold don't always work correctly since they are poorly made. They are either warped or the center moves around so that you can't wind them. Plus, some sit higher in the bobbin area, so they will not work well either. Look for vintage metal bobbins since they work! Hope this helps ya!

THe machine was purchased off of Craigslist and came with 2 bobbins - one metal and one plastic. The metal one works perfectly, but the plastic one is a hair too narrow, so it gets stuck in the bobbin winder when the foot presses down. My metal bobbin only has one hole in it and then the notch for the bobbin winder to fit into. The manual states that the machine takes 15 class bobbins, but all of the ones I see for sale have more holes in them than the one I have. Are those still the correct bobbins for this machine? Or do I need to be looking for bobbins with the one hole. Sorry if the question is confusing.

D~

Okay, I couldn't wait until evening. It's my lunchtime; so, I took some pictures since it was faster than trying to figure out where my post is located. Singer Class 66 bobbins have a curve to them while Singer Class 15 bobbins are flat. The newer metal bobbins that are sold don't always work correctly since they are poorly made. They are either warped or the center moves around so that you can't wind them. Look for vintage metal bobbins since they work! Hope this helps ya!

I've gotten good 66s from sewclassic - the ones from WM are just like you describe. The vintage are heavier though.

Oh and it's sausage and lentil soup with sun dried tomato and biscuits for supper here