Buffalo

Yes, it gets some snow. Okay, a lot of it. But the newly hot city in Upstate New York — full of sports enthusiasts, restaurateurs and makers — knows exactly what to do with itself in any kind of weather.

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BUFFALO

Maybe your most recent image of Buffalo comes from last December, when the Bills looked like they were playing the Colts inside an overpacked snow globe. Ever since Johnny Carson made a running gag of Buffalo’s Blizzard of ’77, the city has been famous for its winter precipitation. But while lake-effect snow does pile up sometimes (particularly in the southern suburbs), the flip side is friendly locals who happily band together to dig a newcomer’s car out in winter — or show off its glistening Lake Erie waterfront in summer. I experienced both during three years in the city, and recently returned with my mom to visit friends. I discovered that Buffalo now is a hot spot year-round. The sports-loving city embraces cold with activities such as outdoor ice skating and curling, and it celebrates summer with unique boat-up recreation venues.

Its history of all-year friendliness goes back well over a century. From immigrants to visionaries, open-hearted Buffalo has always welcomed both workaday folks and ambitious leaders to its cramped Victorian rowhouses and handsome turn-of-the-century mansions. These days, immigrants still bring their traditions and skills to Buffalo’s historic spaces. James Beard Award-nominated chef Victor Parra Gonzalez runs one restaurant in Buffalo and another in Mexico Legendary inventor Nikola Tesla once lit up the city’s electric grid with power from nearby Niagara Falls; now, Elon Musk’s Tesla is set to produce its splashy new solar roof tiles in a Buffalo factory. The city’s proud history, in short, is gaining a fresh 21st-century life.

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Go

Local Faves

Buffalo’s workaday ethic runs straight into its cultural and artistic flair in an unlikely spot: 1Silo City.
1Silo CityGoogle Map: 85 Silo City RowWebsite: silo.city716-235-8380 The cluster of massive grain elevators stands on a gravelly lot along the once-overpolluted Buffalo River. Owner Rick Smith, a metal magnate, tried to start an ethanol business on the property before giving it over to high-minded events like art exhibitions and poetry readings. Today, it’s creative enough that the visual artist Nick Cave is basing himself there for a year-long Buffalo residency. This summer, Smith opened Duende, a bar and restaurant on the site. Although it wasn’t yet open for the day when I came by, staffers invited me in anyway. Bob Sturm (who calls himself “Bob the Builder”) showed me everything he’d constructed of materials reclaimed from the property, right down to the bar made from a roll-up garage door. On my way out, chef Doug Peck hollered at me to come back for the vegan eggplant wings. Next time.

Across the Buffalo River is a set of grain elevators with a different vibe, as evidenced by the half-dozen silos painted ultramarine like a six-pack of Labatt Blue. 2RiverWorks 2RiverWorksGoogle Map: 359 Ganson St.Website: buffaloriverworks.com716-342-2292has a lot going on. In the warmer months the complex is a boat-up brewery and restaurant that people can approach by water; powerboats, kayaks and kitschy floating tiki bars now dock along the recently cleaned-up river. A fresh zip-line course operates in the warmer months, and matchups in roller derby, ice hockey and martial arts happen at different times of the year across the venue, with its slightly macho, sports-bar vibe. Even the scents are a fun time, since General Mills still produces cereal in a nearby grain elevator. Sniff the air and decide whether they’re making Cheerios, Lucky Charms or Honey Nut Chex that day.

Youth hockey players compete in a tournament at RiverWorks in Buffalo. The Darwin D. Martin House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and fresh off a $50 million restoration, is one of Buffalo’s top tourism draws. Roseanna Milligan of West Seneca. N.Y., flips through 1960s accounting records from Silo City at Duende restaurant.

Guidebook Musts

Frank Lloyd Wright was architecturally prolific, having dotted the Midwest and beyond with his signature Prairie Style homes. But even among the many, the 3Darwin D. Martin House3Darwin D. Martin HouseGoogle Map: 125 Jewett ParkwayWebsite: martinhouse.org716-856-3858 stands out as an early Wright masterwork. Bracingly modern and low-slung, the mansion spreads wide across a grand lawn amid the tall, prim, closely spaced Victorians of Buffalo’s Parkside neighborhood. On my return, I was startled to see the property edged in orange tornado fencing, since I’d previously seen it finish its recent $50 million restoration (right down to the thousands of glass shards in the house’s showpiece mosaic hearth, with its pondlike gray-green shimmer). The hosts in the glassy Greatbatch Pavilion — a welcome center that is an architectural achievement in its own right — told me the grand finale is a total landscape restoration, which will bloom come warm weather.

The smart money (some $155 million of it) might tell you to wait a couple of years to see the 4Albright-Knox Art Gallery4Albright-Knox Art GalleryGoogle Map: 1285 Elmwood Ave.Website: albrightknox.org716-882-8700 at its best. The modern and contemporary art museum is just beginning a dramatic expansion designed by the Office of Metropolitan Architects. The place will be re-christened the Buffalo AKG Art Museum following the donation of $42.5 million toward the project by L.A. bond king and Western New York native Jeffrey Gundlach. The secret is, the Albright-Knox already holds a collection that rivals the Guggenheim’s, with masterworks by Kahlo and O’Keefe, Picasso and Pollock. It’s so impressive that the historic-preservation group Explore Buffalo has offered tours (which I first took a couple years ago) of the museum’s stunning outdoor art alone. A highlight is Nancy Rubin’s wild suspension of 60-plus metal canoes on a pole, titled in part “Built to Live Anywhere, At Home Here.” Visiting the Albright-Knox now is like discovering an underground band before it gets famous — you get bragging rights for being in the know before the larger world.

Eat

Local Faves

The antithesis to chowing down on all those chicken wings might be Buffalo’s ethereal new vegan cafe 5Root & Bloom.
5Root and BloomGoogle Map: 423 Elmwood Ave.Website: rootandbloomcafe.com716-768-1878 The macramé art of the ’70s meets millennial pink walls in the dreamy, plant-filled interior space. (Another portion of the restaurant is even greener: It’s a light-strung back patio open only in the warmer months.) Married duo Sarah Sendlebeck and James Ernst opened Root & Bloom in May, in what was formerly a cheesemonger’s and then a chocolatier’s shop. En route to a friend’s place, I stopped in for to-go pastries, including autumnal apple-chai turnovers that were spicy and so flaky I couldn’t fathom how they didn’t include butter. Good thing I didn’t plan to sit: Long before any reasonable dinner hour, every table was full.

It’s an unusual but seasonally brilliant spread for a restaurateur: Chef Victor Parra Gonzalez’s Buffalo spot, 6Las Puertas,6Las PuertasGoogle Map: 385 Rhode Island St.Website: laspuertas-buffalo.com716-807-1141 recently got Gonzalez nominated for a James Beard Award for his next-level Mexican cuisine. The space, in a former home on Buffalo’s diverse West Side, is mostly white and stark. Yet the welcome is familial; Parrilla’s mother and sister help staff Las Puertas. The food is as inventive as you’d imagine from a chef who had worked at Montreal’s famous Au Pied de Cuchon. Mom and I met a friend there for dinner. Although we all understood what to expect from “fall-spice brined chicken” and “brown-butter-roasted squash,” we didn’t grasp in advance what camote tetelas were. They were a kind of sweet-potato pastry with a soft almond crust, it turned out, and the phrase “mezcal-laced coconut cream” told us all we needed to know about how decadent they’d be.

A mural pays homage to the spirit of the Erie Canal at Big Ditch Brewing Co. Owner and chef Victor Parra prepares camote tetelas at Las Puertas in Buffalo. He has another restaurant in Mexico. The wings at Duff's, a stop on the Buffalo Wing Trail, remain a classic of the genre that has swept the nation.

Guidebook Musts

The new Buffalo Wing Trail, established in the spring, includes 12 classic spots for gnawing on Buffalo’s immortal gift to the food gods. My pick is 7Duff’s,7Duff'sGoogle Map: 3651 Sheridan Dr., AmherstWebsite: duffswings.com716-834-6234 where President Barack Obama once ate while in town, and an older Buffalo gal saw fit to tell him exactly what she thought: “You’re a hottie with a smokin’ little body.” (I’m sure he passed that on to Michelle.) Although Obama had swooped into the Duff’s nearest the airport, Mom and I visited the original Sheridan Drive location. We sat under a 1946 black-and-white image showing when the place was the Sheridan Patio, a weed-edged hamburger and hot dog stand. At the next table, visiting Pennsylvania college student Joshua Wanek went big by sampling his first-ever wing here. “I didn’t really have a bar to compare it to,” he said. “The bar has been set. This is the bar.”

The Erie Canal that brought in Buffalo’s heyday was derided early in its existence as New York Gov. DeWitt Clinton’s “big ditch.” 8Big Ditch Brewing Co.8Big Ditch Brewing Co.Google Map: 55 E. Huron St.Website: bigditchbrewing.com716-854-5050 swims in that history from its roaring downtown brewery. A huge mural extols “Strength, Pride, Ambition: The Spirit of the Erie Canal” on one wall, while a giant black-and-white of the man-made waterway dominates another. After launching in 2014, Big Ditch quickly won the Tap NY cup for Best Craft Brewery in New York State, and the taproom became a must-stop. Over Cinnamon Apple ales and chicken wings there, I caught up with a local friend who had been involved in developing the Wing Trail. Although we couldn’t necessarily single out the Hayburner IPA that Big Ditch mixes into the hot sauce, this expert wing-gnawer pronounced them as having a good “sauce to crisp ratio.”

Shop

Local Faves

Buffalo’s long history of welcoming newcomers isn’t just a historical pattern. This century, the city has helped refugees from a range of countries get settled locally and offered them venues, like the longtime West Side Bazaar, to sell their food and goods. In 2014, after noticing that many resettled women brought stitching skills from their home countries, Buffalo State textile arts professor Dawne Hoeg founded a nonprofit organization to help refugee women parlay their existing sewing skills into a new living. Her Refugee Women’s Workshop includes 55 women from countries like Bhutan, Burma, and Angola, and the adjoining 9Stitch Buffalo9Stitch BuffaloGoogle Map: 1215 Niagara St.Website: stitchbuffalo.org716-495-9642 shop sells their work. It’s the Ten Thousand Villages concept on a local scale. I can’t resist the heart-shaped “Buffalove” ornaments, bright and joyful adaptations of a millennial phrase of local pride.

Toys R Us went bust, and FAO Schwartz all but slipped away. Indie bookstores have made a comeback, but how about the local toy store? Three cheers for the colorful 10TreeHouse Toy Store,10TreeHouse Toy StoreGoogle Map: 793 Elmwood Ave.Website: thetreehousetoystore.com716-882-1322 a favorite “business of play” in family-friendly Buffalo since 1996. All the imagination-building classics you might remember from childhood are still here: kites, rocket sets, modeling clay. Co-owner “Mr. Dave” will help you pick out, as he did for me, a gift for friends who’d recently had a baby. (In my case, a book with fun-to-touch cloth patches.) Or if you’re shopping this happy little place with a kiddo along, he’s still got your back — 60-some buckets near the register offer budget-friendly $5 treats including rubber dinosaurs and mini globes.

Margaux Militello of West Seneca, N.Y. shops with her daughter Siena Militello, 4, at TreeHouse Toy Store. Paweh Bu of Buffalo — a refu­gee from Myanmar, also known as Burma — works on a stuffed bird ornament at Stitch Buffalo. Oxford Pennant has a lot more to offer than the namesake wall decoration. But yes, there’s definitely a theme in play.

Guidebook Musts

If you’re a fan, you probably know that 11New Era Cap11New Era CapGoogle Map: 160 Delaware Ave.Website: neweracap.com/flagshipstores/buffalo716-604-9193 is Major League Baseball’s official headwear, and if you’re an extra-attentive football fan, you might have seen that Buffalo’s NFL stadium was recently renamed New Era Field. But did you realize that the hatmaker is based in greater Buffalo, where some of those caps are — at least for the moment — actually produced? The factory isn’t open for tours (sadly, it’s set to move to Miami soon) but the company’s flagship store downtown stocks every special-edition collection, including fashion-forward tie-dye and retro stripes, plus local-pride designs you can’t get anywhere else. “Welcome to Bills mafia, bro. You’re in the middle of it,” I overheard Buffalo native Chris Ocean telling his friend, Truong Nguyen, as they walked in. Nguyen, visiting from Seattle, looked agog at the selection. “If you’re a hat person, or a sports fan, you can’t not stop at New Era,” he said. “I’m totally fanboying out right now.”

Any town can host a funny T-shirt shop. 12Oxford Pennant12Oxford PennantGoogle Map: 731 Main St.Website: oxfordpennant.com716-500-6669’s co-founders, Dave Horesh and Brett Mikoll, saw potential in something else cleverly printed: felted wool pennants. The sporty triangles look like something you’d find in your grandpa’s basement, but actually cheer for a modern “it” city like Nashville, Raleigh (or Buffalo). Since launching five years ago, the locally headquartered company has printed pennants for Shinola and J. Crew, Willie Nelson and Drew Barrymore. At its new flagship store, Horesh and his dachshund mix, Oxford, greeted me, and clerk Patrick Simons offered me a beer. The Goo Goo Dolls blared; that weekend the store had been made into a pop-up concert shop for the Buffalo-bred rockers, selling ’90s jean jackets and felt banners like “I Wanna Wake Up Where You Are.” Horesh, a Rochester native, told me he’d thought about what gives Buffalo even more rah-rah spirit than other Rust Belt towns. “It’s sports,” he told me. “The Bills, the Sabres — there’s something to rally around.”

Stay

Local Fave

The facts on the 13Hotel @ the Lafayette13Hotel @ the LafayetteGoogle Map: 391 Washington St.Website: wyndhamhotels.com/hotels/buffalo-new-york?brand_id=TQ716-853-1505: The masterwork of the country’s first certified female architect, Louise Blanchard Bethune, was restored to its Art Moderne glory as one of Buffalo’s first comeback-hotel projects. The building now hosts a brewery, lofts, shops, restaurants, and countless weddings. Actress Vanessa Williams made one of its suites into a bridal when she stayed there not long ago after her wedding ceremony in downtown Buffalo. My fresh opinion: The bright new space occupied by the coffee shop and all-day cafe Public Espresso + Coffee has made the hotel one of the most energized spots in town. Inhale the rich scent of the beans roasted and the English muffins baked on-site, and prepare, as I did, to get in line.

Barista Zach Hakes of Buffalo crafts a latte at Public Espresso + Coffee at the Hotel @ the Lafayette. Public Espresso + Coffee's Vlad sandwich, with egg, bacon, and cheddar, is a staple at the energized spot. Rachel Tullio and Cole Bielecki, both of Buffalo, enjoy a casual working brunch at Public Espresso + Coffee.

Guidebook Must

The 14Hotel Henry,14Hotel HenryGoogle Map: 444 Forest Ave.Website: hotelhenry.com716-882-1970 an imposing double-towered building by the great architect H.H. Richardson, was once a psychiatric institution. Now, with the extra-wide corridors and flood of natural light that were recommended for patients back then, it’s become a trendy “urban resort” for hotel guests today. The hotshot designers behind the 21c Museum Hotels, Deborah Berke Partners, undertook such a careful transformation that the hotel was named one of 2018’s three best preservation projects in the country by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Mom and I lunched at hotel restaurant 100 Acres, and while the standard Reuben sandwich and harvest salad might not have been unique, the setting in an art-brightened corridor was unlike anything elsewhere.

Explore

Local Fave

Buffalo’s former Little Italy business strip, 15Hertel Avenue,15Hertel AvenueGoogle Map: 1900 Hertel Ave. — 1251 Hertel Ave. has been diversifying lately, with Caribbean and Middle Eastern immigrants opening restaurants, and trendy ice cream and taco joints setting up shop. Jumbled antique shops sit alongside pricey designer-run home furniture stores, and classic dive bars near sleek cocktail lounges. Our ramble was pepped up by fresh public art along the avenue. The “Hertel Walls” project included my new favorite, a Buffalo mural printed from illustrator Mario Zucca’s work that played up the city’s Lake Erie setting. But our best new find had to be Pastry by Camille, a bakery from a Gallic-accented French chef who told us he’d married a Buffalonian. We could taste the fresh cultural representation he’d brought to the avenue with spicy-sweet creations like wasabi meringue.

Kara Adams of East Aurora, N.Y., left, and Ti Markle of Buffalo prepare to split their dishes at Room & Bloom. Root & Bloom, in the heart of the graceful Elmwood Village neighborhood, features vegan food and hanging plants. Michelle Brent of Buffalo and Gianna Duguay of North Tonawanda, N.Y. lounge among the decor at Root & Bloom.

Guidebook Must

Laced with ample green parkways drawn out by landscape architect and Central Park designer Frederick Law Olmsted, 16Elmwood Village 16Elmwood VillageGoogle Map: 1285 Elmwood Ave. — 492 Elmwood Ave.may be the most graceful neighborhood in Buffalo. “Were the houses always this beautiful?” my mom asked as we gawked at its painted-lady Victorian houses, whose ample porches seem to welcome residents, visitors, and returnees like me. The neighborhood’s long main street, Elmwood Avenue, peddles everything from books and toys to coffee and beer to — this being Buffalo — fleece. I was only sorry that we had returned before a new location of Charlie the Butcher, a local-institution meat shop actually presided over by friendly Charlie in his hard hat, opened on the avenue.