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Topic Review (Newest First)

12-08-2014 06:55 PM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

Glad its working out for you... I figured they'd compliment each other

12-08-2014 05:25 PM

sparkyman987

Ok so I used both the LC6i and the EQS together. The EQS fixed everything. It sounds perfectly now. Really strong bass at high volumes and the highs aren't ear bleeding anymore.

11-23-2014 11:54 PM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

Honestly, it looks as though you should use both in tandem. I might be wrong but the EQS, being created as an EQ but usable as an OEM integration processor, lacks the ability to sum signals...

Also, neither unit has the Accubass feature, or the delay feature found in the DQ-61.

You need to use the LC6i for channel summing but the EQS also, to Tame that curvy sumnabich. The EQS does have that 40hz eq knob in the sub eq section... That's good.

If you look at your LC6i , does it have 3 sets of separate lines going to it? Or are any or all of the lines looped together? Also, are any of the summed indicators on the face of the unit lit in green? How many of the preamp outputs are you using?

11-23-2014 12:26 PM

sparkyman987

So my setup is Alpine spr-60c front and rear 2 type r 10" subs in the trunk and alpine's PDX-F4 4 channel amp and MRX-M110 mono amp. Right now I am summing the channels coming out of fords stock amp with an old lc6i I had from a previous car. I just got an Audiocontrol EQS and it has the high level inputs and I was thinking it might be better to just replace the lc6i with just the EQS. What do you think? I had a friend install the lc6i so Im not sure if he used the front tweeter signals when he summed the channels.

11-23-2014 02:41 AM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

Annnnd, last but not least, if your crossover is active, you'll need something to sum all of your speaker signals for one full range sound. Both the LCQ-1 and DQ-61 do this quite well and fairly easily...

11-23-2014 02:34 AM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

Oh, and if your front highs are harsh I'm willing to bet it's either in the amps gain settings or the speakers themselves. Every set of Sony components I've ever heard were harsh AND bright...

You'd probably do well with some better balanced replacements. The Image Dynamics are very pleasing. With my tweets in the A Pillar and set to -3db in the crossover, they're just loud enough to hear, my mids are much more pronounced giving me a warm fat sound and not a cold thin sound... The rear IDs are coax and in spite of this fact, they sound nearly identical to the components. They get loud and are perfectly happy performing from around 45hz to 22khz @100w per channel. I chose 45hz so that when my sub is off, I don't feel completely bass deprived.

Btw, I'm an audio engineer and my two favorite studio monitors are the KRK VXT8s and the Dynaudio BM6As... Both of which I own and rely on and I trust my ears over anything else so, don't take my word for it, listen for yourself! Trust your ears... :blush:

11-23-2014 02:17 AM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

I'm using the non Sony version. There is no difference in the decks themselves between the two non touch/non Sony with My Ford models. Just 4 speakers or 6 which really is still 4 with a set of crappy components...

I've heard the Sony version and honestly, I'm willing to bet that the eq and fade settings are much the same as the My Ford versions, just with more power.

I bet that your speakers are getting full range from around 30hz with a very steep roll off, up to around 18-22khz in the front and steep roll off in the back around 40-45hz up to 18-22khz in the rear with one ugly spike around 5khz in your rear highs making them impossibly harsh. But if you test it, you probably get sub bass in the rear that kicks in at 36hz and much much lower. I don't believe the stock speakers respond that low so Ford didn't bother filtering the sound like they did the front components.

I think the spiked highs was done to make up for the lower location of the rear speakers but it sounds HORRIBLE...

Like I said before, send your rear signal to your subs then get a unit capable of adjusting for your 40hz dip which will allow you ignore the spike in the highs. Then get the full range much more tamed signal routed to your mids and highs and this will also allow you to "mix in" your subs to your liking without a remote control...

Or, and I wouldn't know because I don't have the Sony unit, if you have control over the gain of your subwoofer from the stock deck, send the front full range to your front and rear mids n highs, skip your rear signal altogether, send your sub signal to your new sub and adjust for any frequency spikes or rolloffs thus keeping your sub control in tact and giving your mids and highs a much fuller tameable sound...

Also, give your speakers and sub a week of playtime before you really EQ and get your gains set just right... Those suspensions need to loosen up for a good full range sound, then take your time EQing and getting the gains dialed in.

Sidenote, I set my outputs and gains to be at max output at 23-24 on my volume setting giving me full sound at all volume levels, minimal roll off and controlled highs. Find your stereo's loudest point at which sounds clear, minimal distortion, decent bass and most "musical" then keep this as your reference point when tuning and EQing...

Hope that helps...

11-22-2014 01:43 AM

sparkyman987

ThaSurgeonGeneral what stock head unit do you have? Basic or the Sony system? I have the Sony system on the myford touch and I am getting some crazy harsh highs. I was wondering if anyone know if the front speaker signals coming out of the stock sony amp are left as full range? I know the amp has the tweeter signals coming out but Im not sure if it leave the front signals output still intact. Thanks in advance for any info!

11-19-2014 10:08 PM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

FYI, as it turns out, the frequency issue I wrote about above is a little narrower (only 37hz-43hz) but just as devastating of a problem. To reduce the EQ issues in the rear mids and highs, I opted to send the front full range signal to the rear also. This vastly improved high end harshness and boomy low end. I also decided to send all rear signal to subwoofer input only so that I could fade the stereo to the front for no sub bass or to the rear for sub bass only (test tone adjustments).

So, to counteract the dip in the 40hz range, I've opted to switch from the LCQ-1 to the DQ-61 for the one addition of a 40hz nob on the sub EQ section.

I'll post my findings as soon as everything is installed.

11-18-2014 11:28 PM

ThaSurgeonGeneral

Quote:

Originally Posted by geneticjim

That's awesome!

Thanks... Took some time though because I also sound dampened all my doors, trunk floor and trunk lid or whatever you wanna call that...

Some info FYI (from a post I posted on another forum):

"The Audio Control Unit has performed better than I expected honestly. I can definitely say the same about about the MBQuart OA800, which I picked up on sale for $115 (now back up to $159.99).

The only draw back is the stock HU from Ford in the Focus' sends a very weird signal to the rear channels. Very harsh and over exaggerated highs around 4-6khz compared to the front stage which is RIGHT betwixt the 2khz - 8khz Audio Control EQ knobs on the LCQ-1. There is also a huge bass dip in excess of 12db from about 42hz down to around 32ish-hz. Then a huge boomy bass response from 32hz to under 20hz. If you need a solid bass response from 42hz - sub 20hz, you'll definitely need a way to sum the channels. I was ok with correcting for 25hz and up coming from the front stage. I can hear down to around 18hz but I have no use for sub 25hz.

In the event that you want that sub 25hz bass, you'll likely want to spring for the JBL-MS8 or the Soundstream Synthesis for their summing features. In either case, you will lose the ability to "effectively" fade because, as you fade, you will be fading out one of the summed signals going to the subwoofer output. It matters to me because when I have my 5 year old in the car with me and he wants to hear something I don't, I can fade to the rear which cuts out the sub bass, fades away from the front of the car and leaves him happy to be riding along.

Before you blast me for the Hifonics Brutus 1606D, I have had it since brand new and its been a work horse. I've managed to have it tested for a little under 1700watts at 14.4v.

I'll post when the YouTube is finished in the next couple days. It'll be a tutorial for others but it will include video, instructions and pictures.

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