@LordJosh, thanks for tuning in and commenting. I appreciate your support!!

@wrench, funny you mention that tip, it's what I did yesterday and my update to share today, but I prefer scotchbrite pads. we're leaning toward clearing the parts. Thanks for sharing your input!

We have 3 more parts to make, actuator extension arm and two cover ribs for the ends. So while I wait for those, I worked on the boring, but necessary stage of the build, cleaning up all of the milled pieces. I dismantled the chassis so I could clean and remove minor scratches or the manufacturer ink stamp on the surface of the aluminum.

I'm using 3M red Scotchbrite pads to remove any small scratches or marring to the surface of the aluminum. This is "very Fine" version and it's also a great alternative to sandpaper for prepping PC cases for painting. You can also use these 3M Scotchbrite pads for deburring Steel, Acrylic or Plastic.

Oh, those are nice looking feet. I hate how my cases always lose one of the cheap plastic feet, even on a higher end case. Typically I use a sticky rubber one instead but I like those. Are they rubber on the bottom to avoid slippage or do they slide somewhat?

We just finalized the drawings for ATX version of the motherboard tray with I/O, it's really SEXAY. I should have costs sorted in week or so. Agree, it won't be cheap. I'm really stubborn about not outsourcing my products overseas, if wasn't for enthusiasts, I wouldn't have grown....and why I love US based case manufacturer, CaseLabs I've been watching their market share grow. Founded by former Aerospace Engineer, they used to make products for NASA & Military... the Cases manufacturing just evolved from a hobby.

What is the height of those standoffs? The pic makes them seem usually tall.

Also, it may be prudent to make the tray microATX compatible as well as ATX.

Chipset and CPU integration is making smaller motherboard sizes increasingly popular. For example, I own server motherboards in three different 'small' formats, none of them ATX or larger. I would be more likely to pay for a custom tray, if it could be used more than once in this age of shrinking motherboard footprint.

@Jacque, 3/4", so you can tuck cables underneath the motherboard and tentative plan is to offer both sizes, based on feedback I've received offline. Thank you for sharing your feddback!!

@resedit, I would be honored if that happened

Heres the latest update, Frozen has two eVga Titans on their menu for the hardware. The length of a Titan is 10.5" and we have 10" space... I had 680GTX on the brain when I finalized everything before we made the parts (insert: dramatic music)

I see you have a decent curve in the ribs though, might it still fit as the tail end of the card has that bow to it?Looking at better images I see now that nope, that bow on the tail end is confined to the rectangular space of the card.

The fins mount to the mobo tray AFAICT, so moving it up wouldn't gain any space.

I'm guessing it'll require re-cutting a bigger tray, or cutting what's essentially a spacer that is a little deeper than the tray, so the fins and the tray can attach to that. Would require adjustment to the back of it as well to compensate for the added length without having to re-cut everything.

I don't suppose the cards would somehow wind up between the fins when installed, would they?

I am curious now about the PCIE power cabling. It would be cool if they had right angle plugs for the power so they don't stick straight up; would make routing the wires back down to the PSU easier as well.

An inside cutout of the fins at the spots where the Titans intrudes then? It seems they are thick enough to allow a cutout large enough to still hold integrity, especially when bolted together with all the other fins.

Thank you for feedback and suggestions guys! I've been away from the workshop and stuck behind my desk the entire week, preparing for Taxes..Ok, so the plan is to remove small portion off backside of the fins, make new Motherboard tray with stand-off locations moved .5" toward the rear. Shorten the two I/O shield posts 1/8" to clear the back of the cover....

. The cover weighs 8.5 pounds and opened with Firgelli L16-P actuator arm. It's powered by electric motor with gear drive inside that extends single arm back and forth. The L-16 actuator max force rating is 200N, which translates to 45 pounds

Nevermind the specs-- how do you think the arm works? Do you think you could get by with a less powerful arm the next time, would you want a more powerful arm, or do you think this one is just about perfect?

I finally got the actuator installed. The cover weighs 8.5 pounds and opened with Firgelli L16-P actuator arm. It's powered by electric motor with gear drive inside that extends single arm back and forth. The L-16 actuator max force rating is 200N, which translates to 45 pounds.

hate to be a downer, but don't forget about leverage. eyeballing your pictures it looks like the actuator moves moves maybe 70mm but the heaviest part of the cover is moving about 300mm. your safety margin is less than 2 here. i didn't see an air spring or counterweight, if you did that already then of course i apologize for ever doubting you

Happy Easter! We're looking into adding a gas charged spring to the other side of the Tech Station, just as added precautionary measure, in case the actuator ever failed. Several people expressed interest in making ATX version of the CNC Machined Aluminum Motherboard Tray. I'm looking into contracting another shop to make these, so I don't have a cost confirmed yet, but here is what the proposed kit would look like and include,

We're adding Ameritool's Gas Spring gas charged lift spring to the other side of the Tech Station. This is just added measure to help carry weight of the cover and extend lifespan of actuator and prevent cover from slamming shut, in case the actuator ever broke or failed for some reason. I've chosen the 10 pound lift rating for their 750-4 Stainless Gas Spring

Gotta love stainless, the springs should arrive this week. The minimum pressure for the 750 series gas spring is 10#. I've also ordered a 625-4 gas spring, with bleeder valve, so I can bleed off the pressure below 10#... I've gotten one of these in the past, and once you bleed it, theres no turning back...