I wasn't sure how much the yarn would 'grow' in the ribbing since I only swatched on the larger needles, so I knit 3.5" instead of 4".

Then for the back itself I figured I would need around 11" or so after blocking to get the 14.5" total if the ribbing didn't stretch so I calculated that I would need to knit 66 rows since the gauge is 24 rows to 4". I suppose I could have knit to the back a little shorter since I'm thinking the 3.5" ribbing will stretch a bit, but I figured better safe to go longer than shorter.

I'm going to start on the armholes later this evening.

Good work Susan!

Did you make note of how many ribbing rows you worked to reach your 3.5"? If not, do so. This will help you perfectly duplicate your ribbing to match the FRONTS.

I would simply measure the entire length, ribbing and all...to reach your prescribed 14.5". It will be good however, to make notes about how many repeats and rows you knit for the body (beyond the ribbing) to reach your 14.5" goal...so that you can perfectly duplicate that length for the FRONTS.

Here is a photo of the RIGHT & LEFT FRONTS, completed, but un-blocked. The BACK, RIGHT & LEFT FRONTS will be heading off to the blocking board today. I will remove all my little red row markers first, of course. And the gold armhole cast off row marker.

For the bindoffs along the neckline, I used the "slip the 1st stitch" (rather than knit) in the bind off process to created a smoother line on the neckline.

That looks very nice. Why would you need to block it? I don't block things, primarily because they're acrylic or cotton, and don't find I need to. They're the size I want because I use my own gauge instead of trying to match a pattern (which I only use as a basis anyway), though the sts even out a lot with washing. But your piece look really good to me.

Here are photos of my SLEEVES notebook.
Two facing pages: one has the general instructions,
the other shows my 'increases' plan/diagram

This inc rows diagrams sets forth EXACTLY on which rows I will be doing an increase at each end. Instructions: "inc 1 ea end every 8th row, 10 x's" for my size. I incorporate those increases into the Repeats&Rows because I don't keep track of just rows...but the repeats as well. It is good to place a stitch marker at each end of the rows after you have 1 increase row done. The marker will alert you if you have missed an increase. The most common sleeve increase to miss is the last one on the row. The markers should always have the same number of stitches on the outside of them. If they don't, you can bet you missed increasing at the end of an inc row! Just always check, check, check. The number of increases on each side of the marker should also coincide with the number of circles on your diagram that you have put a mark / through! I mark the green circles off with a / when the increase row is complete.

This photo demonstrates why it is important to set up your K2P2 ribbing correctly. After the cuff has reached 5", you will be instructed to begin the CHART B cable, placed in the middle of the row. CHART B must begin and end with P2. This works IF your ribbing was set up correctly, as K2-P2 and ending with K2 at the other end.

In this photo, I placed my stitch markers early on, to be certain that my ribbing was going to 'sync' with the CHART B cable placement when the ribbing was 5" and ending.

This is a photo of a few rows of the cuffs. Begin your cuffs with K2 (not P2)...and that is the RIGHT SIDE. The row also ends with a K2. I personally prefer to work the 1st and last stitch of every row as an "edge stitch". It promotes easier seaming later on.

That looks very nice. Why would you need to block it? I don't block things, primarily because they're acrylic or cotton, and don't find I need to. They're the size I want because I use my own gauge instead of trying to match a pattern (which I only use as a basis anyway), though the sts even out a lot with washing. But your piece look really good to me.

Blocking serves more purposes than sizing. Please believe me when I say...blocking improves the appearance of the garment tremendously, regardless of fiber. The overall finished surface improves greatly! I rarely block to change sizing, or to make pieces match in size. My method of knitting rules out mis-sized pieces in the first place. With this particular CPH, another perk of blocking is that the fibers will bloom and become softer to the touch. Donegal tweeds are kinda scratchy, until after blocking! They significantly improve after hand washing in UNICORN FIBER WASH & RINSE prior to seaming. I pin out the pieces on the blocking board, using blocking wires for the straightaways, and leave the entire mess til bone dry. (I've seen too many CPH's on Ravelry that are horrid in appearance, not due to mistakes in the knitting or yarn choice...but because the garment was not 'finished' with blocking. Hey, but who's asking me? They're happy. I'm happy.)

This baby set, made for a girlfriend's 1st DGD, was knit with acrylic yarn. Blocking improved its appearance a lot! I blocked the hat on something round that was head-size, and misted it down.

This is a photo of a sweater set I made my DGS's for Easter a few years ago.
The yarn: Cotton Patine, by Elsebeth Lavold. Blocking perfected the finished surfaces tremendously. Single ply yarns are lovely, but they can knit up weird and unruly. Blocking tames that! Every stitch gets into line during the blocking process.

Here is a photo of a sweater set I made my DGD's. The yarn: Rowan All Seasons Cotton. The sweaters were perfectly sized, but the blocking totally improved the stitches! The blocking was used to "polish up" the appearance of the garment! Whenever possible, blocking occurs before seaming.

Here is a photo of a Viking Knits sweater that I blocked, of course. It was knit with Lousia Harding "Grace". (70%merino/30%silk blend) The sweater was the right size...but the st st was all wonky. I just hate that. Single ply yarns are notorious for knitting 'wonky' in st st. But blocking saved the day! I couldn't believe it solved the entire issue! The surface of the st st is now perfect. Smooth and finely shaped stitches throughout!

The photos below show a baby set I knit last year. The yarn is cotton: Elann's Lara. St st and cotton, aaargh! So many stitches are wonky. The surface of the st st is not even and smooth...UNTIL AFTER BLOCKING! I was so happy with the surface appearance after I blocked the pieces! (I block before seaming) Then, with this baby set, I laid damp handtowels on top again and left til dry. Voila! Like magic! The st st looks like a machine knit! I was pretty bummed out before that.

Can ya tell that BLOCKING is a pet peeve of mine?
Hope you're not sorry you asked!

Perhaps this post about blocking helps someone. I have photos of my DD's CPH on the blocking board, which I will post later in this project. The photos show how the blocking wires are threaded through the edge stitches; and several other blocking tips for the CPH.

I wash and dry the washables and yes, it does even out stitches quite a lot, which I think you could get from handwashing the wools and delicates, though you'd lay flat to dry of course. It just looked to me like the CPH pieces were quite nice already.

My FRONTS and BACK are washed, rinsed, patted dry, and on the blocking board and will remain there til bone dry. My sweater is already improving in appearance and "feel". The stitches are blooming nicely! And the yarn already feels softer, even while wet!

Here is a good example of how handy dandy edge stitches are! See how easily you can push/thread the blocking wire through the edge stitches?

Here is a photo of the blocking wire, threaded through all the edge stitches, as seen from the wrong side up.

Blocking wires are holding the straightaways in place, with minimal pinning.