I've read it is best not to fill more than half the industry and yard tracks with cars. I have to admit to exceeding that, probably nearer 3/4. It just means more car shuffling, but then that is part of the fun, to move the cars in the most efficient way. This is not always the least moves as on the prototype coupling/ uncoupling often takes more time than doing an extra move.

This where operating prototypically comes in, as allowing time for brakemen to walk around, pumping air etc. adds to the experience.

If you have space I would consider a bit bigger industry that can accept several types of cars, with track spots dedicated to the types of cars. This means having to move cars to reach those further in and then replacing the moved cars. This adds more moves without more cars in the trains.

I find sanding two slight flats on the stick point helps. Then place the point between the tips of the opening parts of the knuckles, a slight twist should uncouple.
Once you are happy with the point, a bit of PVA on it will harden the end.

switcher1 wrote:Question: Is it the friction of the wood or twist of the small flat area that works best?

I'm not sure, I think it is more the action pushing apart of the knuckle tips, the point type does that as it is pushed in, the flats by twisting. I find being smooth is better so less friction.
Most of us use barbecue skewers, a packet from the supermarket is a life times supply of uncouplers, glue applicators, round posts, etc. etc.

I was using a pointy stick, no flats, yesterday, happened to be in my toolbox. It was smooth with superglue and worked very well, I find the glue allows a sharper point that does not break off so easily. I first found that out after using one for applying glue and wiping it off, and later it using for uncoupling.