Description

Climb up weird dihedrals past two bolts and a few gear placements. The second bolt is clipped from a ledge and "protects" the crux move up into a lieback/stem. Why this bolt wasn't placed two feet higher, and why the hangers were spray painted after they were installed, I'm not sure, but the movement on the route is decent.

First, much respect to the style of the first ascent. Second, the crux occurs with that original bolt at your waist or thigh, so why move it? The following block/crack section takes protection and offers good stances. Fixed-protection-alteration needed? I don't think so (but I'm no ethics referee).

The posted description is lame for a route that I really enjoyed, so I'll offer this: This is an interesting route on great rock in a beautiful location, and it has a variety of fun moves. It seems steeper than it looks, but that's coming from me, and I'm a wuss. Small stoppers work well for the middle section, and help protect a middle crux scaling the corner that would be very exposed were that new, lower bolt not there. (Then again, you can do it with a piece in at eye-level, which is how I imagine the FA was done.) The original, upper bolt protects a tenuous move or two up into a reliable layback. A cam or two, up to 1", will protect the crack. Enjoy the view.