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stupid sear question?

What is the sear pin length supposed to be on an automagRT with a Ygrip? And where exactly do I take my caliper measurement from?

I ask this because the way my gun has been set up for the last 13 years the safety has not worked. But the gun worked flawlessly. So I never adjusted the sear. I just used the pf plug as a safety. Well this coming weekend is the WRP scenario and I decided to fix the sear proper so the safety will work and I can't get in trouble. Now I have the cc gap by the trigger. But it still hit and miss fires with the safety on. But now it has other minor firing quarks. Double fires if I feather the trigger in slowly. Sputters sometimes. Ect. I'm guessing the sear is starting to get worn out? Because the bolt looks great. And I didn't think to check the sear before I put the gun back together. Its just odd it worked perfect before I adjusted the sear that was too long.

what's the safely on an electro? i wouldn't worry about the safety all that much. by turning off the flow of paint, its safer than what you where trying to fix.

take it back out, and go for reliable. what you have sounds unsafe. i think you check the length from the sear arm to the end of the threads. i don't know if its in the stickies or faq, but i'm sure that someone that has the info will be along with it.

Well for now I'm gonna put it back how it was. Yes I'm always a fan of shutting off paint flow as a safety. Was just afraid if they herd the gun fire outside of the net they might get pissy. Think I'll take my chances for now. And while its apart check sear wear. And look up spec. I'm sure that one has been asked a few times. Since I was asking the other I figured I'd throw that in there also. Have a dealing my old sear has about ran its life out. We will see. Just odd that when set up not proper it has worked great for years. But try to set it up correct and it acts up. Go figure.

When you have the gun gassed up, hold the trigger against the safety. The sear should be fully forward. This where the credit card gap comes into play. With the sear fully forward, the back of the trigger should be a credit card thickness ahead of the front of the trigger rod on the sear. This will allow the sear to fully rotate forward and open the on-off to recharge the valve. Now, when you release the safety and pull the trigger, the trigger should be able to contact the trigger rod and push it far enough back to fully release the bolt. If this happens, then that part of the gun is working properly. It doesn't really matter what the length of the rod is if you follow that spec. The actual trigger rod spec won't be accurate for all setups depending on what triggers are used and what grip frames are used, but most setups will work if you follow the idea of allowing the trigger to have a gap when pulled against the safety and able to push far enough to clear the bolt.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.