Tiny Tile Quilt

Our Tiny Tile Quilt’s diagonal lines and tiny pieced diamonds may give the impression of expert quilt making, but the reality is much simpler than that. All you really need is the easiest of building blocks: a basic square… and lots of them!

Piecing these squares, corner by corner and then row by row, creates this seemingly complex play of colorful diamonds. Add to that our palette of fresh spring blossoms and fruity sorbets, and the result is playful, sophisticated and a little bit surprising.

Pick up all the fabrics you’ll need with our Tiny Tile Quilt Bundle and make an heirloom… even if you’re a quilting newbie! -Corinne

Cut

For the Binding

From Fabric F, cut six 2 ½-inch strips from selvage to selvage and then trim off the selvages.

For the Quilt Top

This quilt is made up of 120 Large Squares, which measure 5 ½ x 5 ½ inches, and 480 Small Squares, which measure 2 x 2 inches.

Cut 120 Large Squares from Fabric A.

Cut a total of 480 Small Squares (2 x 2 inches) from Fabrics B-G in the following amounts . . .

Fabric B: 120

Fabric C: 120

Fabric D: 90

Fabric E: 88

Fabric F: 40

Fabric G: 22

When you have finished cutting the Small Squares, put them into a paper bag and jumble them all together.

Organize the Large Squares into 12 piles of 10 squares each.

Piece the Squares

Pull 10 Small Squares from the paper bag (no looking!). Do not worry about having an even amount of colors in the pile. The random mix of colors and tones is part of the charm of this quilt!

Pull one Small Square from the pile, and with the wrong side facing up, use your preferred fabric-marking tool (I used a water-soluble fabric marker) and a straight-edge ruler to draw a diagonal line from one corner of the square to another, as shown above.

Repeat for all 10 Small Squares.

Now, grab the first stack of 10 Large Squares.

Lay one Large Square out flat with its right side facing up.

With its wrong side facing up, place one Small Square on one corner of the Large Square so that the marked line runs across the Large Square’s corner (rather than through it), as shown above. Pin in place.

Repeat with the remaining Large and Small Squares.

Now, sew each Large and Small Square together along the marked diagonal line. You can sew the Squares one at a time (you don’t need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam), or use the quilt-making technique called “chain piecing,” which means continuously sewing the pieces together without lifting the presser foot or cutting the threads. Here’s how . . .

Start sewing the first Square in the pile. When you reach the approximate center of the marked line, grab the next Square in the pile and place it in front of the working Square. Orient its marked line so that it is in line with the marked line of the previous Square. The Large Squares of the two pieces overlap, but the two Small Squares abut, and you should only ever sew through one set of Squares at a time.

Continue like this until you have joined all of the pinned pieces. And that’s chain piecing!

Now, carefully snip the threads between each piece.

Lay one pieced Square out flat. Trim the corner where the Small Square is attached, leaving a ¼-inch seam allowance. The Small Square is now a Small Triangle!

Press the Small Triangle up, pressing the seam allowance towards the Small Triangle.

Repeat with the remaining pieced Squares.

Now, grab 10 more Small Squares from the paper bag. Mark, pin and sew them to an un-sewn corner of the same 10 Large Squares, as described above. Trim the Small Squares into Small Triangles and press, also as described above.

Repeat for the remaining un-sewn corners of the Large Squares, grabbing 10 more Small Squares from the paper bag for each corner.

Once you have pieced all four corners of the Large Squares, you can set these aside and grab another stack of 10 Large Squares from the pile. Piece the Small Squares to these Large Squares in the same manner.

Repeat until all 120 Large Squares have been pieced.

Arrange the Quilt Top

Although the layout of the finished Tiny Tile Quilt appears random, and to a certain extent it is, I suggest arranging the pieced Squares before you sew the rows. This allows you to space the colors as you like and to check that the bold colors don’t group together.

Arrange 10 squares across and 12 rows down.

You will notice as you lay out the Squares that the Small Triangles group together and create rows of colorful diamonds. Group the Triangles as you like, and play around until you have an arrangement of colors that you are happy with!

Take a picture of your final layout. You can reference this photo as you piece the Squares into rows.

Piece the Squares into Rows

Working row by row, organize the Squares into 12 stacks of 10 Squares each.

Sew together a row of 10 squares, working left to right along the row. Here’s how . . .

With right sides together, stack the first and second Square on top of each other and pin along their adjacent sides (refer back to your photograph, as needed, to remind yourself which sides are adjacent in your layout). Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance (you don’t need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam).

Now, stack the third square on top of the second square, again with right sides together and adjacent sides aligned. Pin and sew, as described above.

Repeat with the remaining squares in the pile, working in order and referring to your photograph as needed.

Press all the seam allowances in the same direction.

Sew together the next stack of 12 Squares.

Once you have finished piecing this row, press all the seams in the opposite direction as you did in the last row (if you pressed all seams towards the beginning of the previous row, press this row’s seams towards the end, or vice versa).

Repeat with the 10 remaining stacks, always pressing the seams in the opposite direction of the previous row.

Piece the Rows

To finish the Quilt Top, sew together these 12 finished rows. Here’s how . . .

Working from the top down and with right sides together, stack the first and second row on top of each other. Align the long bottom edge of the first row with the long top edge of the second row. Pin them together along this edge, making sure that all straight seams are aligned. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.

Now, stack the third row on top of the second row, again with right sides together and adjacent sides aligned. Pin and sew, as described above.

Repeat with the 10 remaining rows.

Your Quilt Top is now finished!

Mark for Quilting

Press the Quilt Top and then, with the right side facing up, lay it down on a clean, hard surface, most likely a floor.

Using masking tape, tape the fabric down to the floor around all four sides, pulling it taut as you tape. First tack down the centers of the opposite sides and then tape along each side, from the center out.

Using a long ruler and starting in one corner, use your preferred fabric-marking tool (I used my Hera Marker) to mark a line along the seam of the corner Small Triangle, shown above in bold.

Now, mark a line 5 inches below and parallel to that line. Use the seam line of the Small Triangle in the opposite corner of the Square as your guide.

Mark the next line 2 inches below and parallel to the last. Use the seam line at the other side of the diamond as your guide.

Continue marking the Quilt Top in this manner, drawing parallel lines that follow the seam lines of every other diagonal row of diamonds.

Now, draw a line perpendicular to any previously drawn line, running along the seam line of any previously marked diamond.

Draw lines parallel to this line in the same manner as described, following the seam lines of every other diagonal row of diamonds.

Baste

Make a quilt sandwich and pin-baste the Backing, batting and Quilt Top together. For instructions on how to do all this, please check out our Pin-Basting Tutorial!

Quilt

Now it’s time to quilt all the pieces together along the marked lines, first sewing all the lines slanting in one direction and then the lines slanting in the other direction..

Using your machine’s walking foot, start with a line that runs through the center of the Quilt (or close to it), sew along this line from one edge of the fabric to the other (you do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end).

To sew the next line, rotate the Quilt 180 degrees and sew along the line running next to the line you just stitched.

Continue to sew along the remaining parallel lines in this same manner: When you have finished sewing one line, rotate the Quilt and sew along the line next to it.
Sew all of the parallel lines on one side of the center line and then sew all of the lines on the other side of the center line in the same manner.

Next, quilt all of the diagonal lines slanting in the other direction in the same way: Start sewing with the center line and alternate directions as you sew along all the parallel lines running to the right and then to the left of this center line.

Trim the batting and Backing along all four sides so that they align with the Quilt Top.

When sizing the quilt down here are a few things to keep in mind . . .

1. Each square on the finished quilt measures 5 by 5 inches. Use this measurement to figure out how many Large Squares you’ll need. To make our 50-inch by 60-inch blanket, we made our quilt 10 squares across and 12 squares down, so 120 Large Squares.

2. To calculate how many Small Squares you’ll need, multiply the amount of Large Squares by 4. We used 480 Small Squares.

3. If you would like the same ratio of colors on your quilt, half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.

4. To figure out yardage for the Large Squares, keep this math in mind:

The Large Squares are cut to 5 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches. If you are using the same 110-inch wide muslin that we used in our project, you can get 19 Large Squares from each 5 1/2-inch cut of fabric. So, 1/4 yard would yield 19 Large Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 57 Large Squares and 3/4 yard would yield 76 Large Squares, etc.

5. To figure out yardage for the Small Squares, keep this math in mind:

The Small Squares are cut to 2 inches by 2 inches. You can get 20 Small Squares from each 2-inch cut of 44-inch wide fabric. So, 1/4 yard would yield 80 Small Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 180 Small Squares, etc.

6. You will also need to adjust the size of the Backing and the length of the Binding.

I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions!
-Corinne

I have only ever ‘quilted’ once…a t-shirt quilt for my son, and I bumbled along. this beautiful quilt is so simply and clearly explained, and your kit is gorgeous…I have a feeling you may make a quilter of me yet! thanks!

What excellent, clear instructions, assuming no pre-knowledge as many do. This quilt is so fresh and dainty. I’m very tempted to make it once I get my sewing room organised and can leave the machine out instead of having to pack up for meals! Thank you.

1. Each square on the finished quilt measures 5 by 5 inches. Use this measurement to figure out how many Large Squares you’ll need. To make our 50-inch by 60-inch blanket, we made our quilt 10 squares across and 12 squares down, so 120 Large Squares.

2. To calculate how many Small Squares you’ll need, multiply the amount of Large Squares by 4. We used 480 Small Squares.

3. If you would like the same ratio of colors on your quilt, half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.

4. To figure out yardage for the Large Squares, keep this math in mind:

The Large Squares are cut to 5 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches. If you are using the same 110-inch wide muslin that we used in our project, you can get 19 Large Squares from each 5 1/2-inch cut of fabric. So, 1/4 yard (9 inches) would yield 19 Large Squares, 1/2 yard (18 inches) would yield 57 Large Squares, 3/4 yard (27 inches) would yield 76 Large Squares, etc.

5. To figure out yardage for the Small Squares, keep this math in mind:

The Small Squares are cut to 2 inches by 2 inches. You can get 20 Small Squares from each 2-inch cut of 44-inch wide fabric (keeping selvage and shrinkage in mind). So, 1/4 yard would yield 80 Small Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 180 Small Squares, etc.

6. You will also need to adjust the size of the Backing and the length of the Binding.

I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any more questions about any of the specifics as you size this quilt up!
-Corinne

Thank you for all the instructions for the different size quilts. I definitely will make this quilt. This will be my 3rd quilt from Purl Bee’s patterns. All came out so lovely, modern, simple yet elegant.
My question: Do you prewash all the fabrics before you cut?

The tiny triangles that are cut off the corners are quite small (the two straight sides are about 1 3/4 inches each). I am sure that there is a fun way to repurpose these small pieces, but I’ll admit that I just threw mine away. I would love to hear any clever ideas you come up with!

As I have already written–this is a great quilt pattern and I have the kit.
My only complaint is that the pattern doesn’t print out very well. The page breaks are bad and it’s over-sized in a few places.
I thought this was addressed by the Bee when the last website overhaul was done. Usually when there is a download/print icon the pattern is sharp and pagination is well done. I hope this will be fixed.
regards,

Thank you for writing in. I’m so glad you are happy with the pattern and kit, but I’m sorry you’re not pleased with how the pattern is printing!

The pattern is set up to print exactly how it is laid out in the post, so we unfortunately don’t have much control of where page breaks land. However, the way that our print feature is set up you can easily delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. This should help with some of the issues that you’re having.

I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns about this feature.
-Corinne

Amazing. Your colors and design are absolutely striking. I seldom buy kits but this is one that I will certainly consider buying if I can fit it into my budget for the month! Thank you for this beautiful quilt.

Well I will try the printing again, but I haven’t had this problem for a long time, so don’t know why it is happening now.

Also–the instructions are somewhat confusing. Usually when there is a wide width fabric (muslin 120″) it is the backing, but not in this case. Instead the backing is pieced from another fabric and the muslin is for the large squares.
Fabric this width is difficult to handle. After washing, it comes out somewhat wonky and it is difficult to cut the 5 1/2 strips to cut into squares. I found that most of the squares are not straight of grain. I tried cutting the fabric into smaller pieces to adjust the grain issue but then was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to obtain the number of squares needed. I suggest that when muslin is needed that a 42″ wide muslin be included if it not for a backing. This might make the kit a bit more costly but it would be much easier to handle the fabric for the cutting. I tried ripping to get a straight edge and so on, but in the end most or many of the squares are not on grain. I am hoping that with the sewing and quilting it will turn out okay.
Also, the double guaze, while a beautiful color and fabric, is very stretchy. I would have been happier with the same color in a more manageable cotton.
I am an experienced sewist so I hope these comments help others who undertake this project.

Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. We’re very sorry you struggled with some of our fabric selections but have our fingers crossed that your quilt will be beautiful, nonetheless. We hear and appreciate your concerns; please let us know if there’s anything we can do to help!

I purchased this beautiful quilt kit to make for my second grandchild. I took it to a quilt store to see if I could get a referral to help quilt the finished top. The women were amazed & perplexed about the double gauze fabric & convinced me to substitute “a suitable quilt fabric” instead. Couldn’t exactly match the peach. I’m looking forward to making the quilt!!

Thanks for writing in! We are big fans of Double Gauze here at the shop and have used it in this quilt and many of our employees have used it for other quilts, blankets and even clothing! We totally understand substituting other fabrics and hope that it comes out beautifully!

I love this and would like to purchase the kit. I am trying to upscale it to a 70 x 80″ quilt. I’ve done the sums to work out how many large and small squares I need (224 big squares and 896 small) but I can’t work out how best to order the extra fabric (in the right colours) in addition to what the kit already has. Any good ideas for a quick way to work it out? Or should I go back to square one and order each fabric separately out of the kit?

Do you advise me to buy the kit and add the extras? Or should I just do everything individually? My only concern is the bigger batting as there doesn’t seem to be an option in the shop to change the size.

Because you will also need to buy the new batting, it will probably be easiest for you to get all of the materials outside of the kit. You can do this online, or call our customer service number (800-597-7875), and they will be happy to pull everything you need!

I ADORE this quilt. I saw it on Pinterest and was so excited when the link was a tutorial. I will be putting this on my to-do list. I have really enjoyed working with solids lately, and this would be another good challenge for me. 🙂

I love this pattern and am planning to make it as a baby quilt. Mine will be smaller, requiring less materials, therefore it is more cost effective for me to buy the fabrics individually. Since I’m not getting the kit, it appears you are all out of the Kokka Fine Solids in beige.

Can you suggest an alternative for this fabric? I’m considering using Rowan shot cotton in Latte, but its hard to tell online if this will be a suitable substitution color wise. And since Purl doesn’t carry it, I’d have to buy it from another source.

Is there a fabric that you would suggest that I could order along with the others from Purl? That would save me shipping costs.

First, I contacted our New York store, and they currently have quite a few yards of the Kokka Fine Solids in Beige available (their inventory is not linked to the website), so you could give them a call and order directly from the shop. I did not ask about the rest of the materials for the project, but it is possible that you would be able to order everything you need from them!

If you would like to do this, you can give the shop a call any time between 12:00 and 7:00 EST and they will be happy to get everything together for you!

(212) 420-8796

Alternatively, if you feel more comfortable ordering from the web, there are definitely some other fabrics you could consider!

Or… for a no-waste version, cut half as many of the small squares at a slightly larger 2 3/8″ instead of 2″. When these are cut diagonally (a rotary cutter makes quick work of this) you will have all the corner triangles you need each with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Each square will have made two colored corners and you will not have wasted so much of your beautiful fabric.

FYI I have just completed this quilt using the fabric-saving 2 3/8″ squares. I was pleased to see this suggestion as it allowed me to use up scraps that were too few to make all the 2×2 squares.

I would not suggest using this method. The quilt became extremely fiddly and I had to re-do most of the blocks as the small triangles were difficult to get pinned and sewn correctly.

Also, any error in blocking really showed once the tiles were pieced together as the points did not line up. Further, the quilting itself relied on straight lines from the tiles and if they were slightly off, so was the quilting.

I am by far a newbie quilter so this could all be due to my human error, but if I could go back again I would make sure to use the suggested method of 2×2 squares.

I loved this quilt the first time I saw it! And loved getting to visit your store and see in person. I am so behind in several knitting projects that it will be awhile before I can quilt. How long do you keep the kits? I’d like to wait to purchase, but I don’t want to miss out on it incase you rotate your selections.

Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about this Quilt! I am so glad it has inspired you to make your own!

This is a great question about the kits. All of our materials kits stay in stock indefinitely, as long as all of the materials we need to assemble the kits are in stock. If you ever notice that a kit is out of stock, it probably just means that we are waiting on shipment of one or more of the materials. If this happens, feel free to email us at customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com and we can give you the details on any particular kit or item and let you know when we are expecting it back in stock.

I have the kit and tools now, so am committed! I am going to gift this as a baby quilt and want to include care instructions. What do you recommend? Machine washable and drying I hope. Also, what do you think of using the spray starch while ironing to prepare the fabric after pre-washing that some quilters recommend? Supposedly restores some of the sizing and makes the pieces easier to sew together accurately. Or skip the pre-washing and lightly iron? Then the fabric still has its original crispness. Thanks so much for the help! This will be my first quilting project.

These are all great questions. Thank you for writing in. I am so glad this project has inspired you to make your first Quilt!

As for care: yes! This quilt is fully machine washable and can be thrown in the dryer, as long as all of the fabrics have been washed and dried beforehand. This gets any shrinkage out of the way before the fabrics are sewn together, and will eliminate any distortion that could happen otherwise.

I think that using a spray starch can be a great help when cutting these small shapes. We recommend Mary Ellen’s Best Press Clear Starch, which is more natural than most heavier weight starches you’ll find in stores, and won’t leave any white flakes or residue.

I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project!
-Corinne

This is a great question. You will definitely still want to baste and mark before you start quilting, whether by hand or machine. The Hera marker will work well for marking, however thread basting may be preferred to avoid getting your work tangled in the pins. If you would like any tips about thread basting your quilt, you can find our Thread Basting tutorial here.

Thanks for writing in! The colors of the quilt can easily be changed. To create a similar look with the same proportions of colors, you will want to choose a total of 6 colors for your new design. I recommend 4 tonal colors for Colors B-E, 1 dark color for Color F, and 1 bright color for Color G. If you are working in the same size as the original quilt (50 x 60 inches), you can follow all of the yardages given in the pattern for these fabrics.

Half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.

I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any more questions as you work on your quilt!
-Corinne

This quilt is quite charming and the instructions are very simple.
I do have a suggestion regarding the quilting plan. I have found that the quilting looks better when sewn in one direction only, esp. on the diagonal as you have here. It is slightly easier to go down one way and turn around to go up on the next one and so on, but I noticed in the picture the puckering that results from the opposite drag on the bias by doing it this way. The effect is more pronounced after the cross direction is sewn back and forth also. The whole quilt will be much smoother if each line of stitching is stitched in the same direction.
Another thing that you might consider is that many quilters start quilting from the center of the quilt and work their way alternately on each side of center (and still in the same direction). This way you do not stretch your layers down to the corner on this quilt and find that your rectangular quilt has turned into an irregular rectangle!
Thanks for the lovely design.
Rachel

I am thinking of making this quilt with left over liberty fabric from the prism quilt. By my calculation I can get 500 2 x 2 squares from what I have left. I would like to make the quilt more of a 65 x 88 size, so I probably need around 300 more 2×2 squares? I would like to just use the random Liberty patterns (of which I have 26 warm). Can I just buy a few pieces of one or two of the Liberty fabrics I already have and how much more do you think I need to buy? I can figure out the white and the back from posts above. Will it look dumb with just random prints in the tiny triangles instead of the coordinated solids?

This sounds like such a lovely idea! I think the mix of Liberty prints together will look really beautiful on this quilt.

My quick math tells me that you will need approximately 250 additional small squares to make a 65 x 70-inch quilt. Each 1/4-yard of the Liberty (a 54-inch wide fabric) should yield around 100 pieces, so you could purchase three 1/4-yard pieces of your favorite patterns to mix in.

Alternatively, it could also be lovely to incorporate some solids into the mix along with all the patterns. The collection of colors in Kihohara’s Fine Solids is lovely, as is the range of Purl Soho’s Handkerchief Linen. Just keep in mind that if you use a more narrow fabric (like Kiyohara’s Fine Solid, which is around 43 inches wide), each 1/4-yard will yield around 80 small pieces instead of 100.

Thanks, Corinne. I LOVE the handkerchief linen. I think I will mix in some solid squares of that and then pick a color that brings out the best in the prints and use it for the binding. Of course I have no idea how much I will need but I can probably figure it out based on a 65 x 70 inch quilt and 2.5 inch binding.

Thanks for writing in to us! We don’t have actual specs for a king size version but I know that a king size quilt is about double the specs of the quilt shown. I would then buy double the fabric to make it work. You might have a seam down the back if you can’t get 120″ wide muslin, but this is easily accessible on our website. Best of luck and I hope you choose to do it!

Love this quilt and will make it for my first neice/nephew with some color changes to make it a bit more gender neutral. I’m curious about batting thickness as you did not specify — which thickness do you suggest and what did you use for this particular quilt?

Thank you for writing in! Great question, you’ll use the hand quilting thread to sew the binding to the wrong side of the quilt with a slip stitch. The instructions for this step are found in our Sewing On Double Fold Binding tutorial.

Thanks for writing in! On the product page for the kit, you can ask to be notified when the kit is back in stock. At present, we have 2 kits available in the store. To order from the store, you can call us Monday-Friday, 12-7pm; Saturday and Sunday, 12-6pm at (212) 420-8796 and we can process that order!

Hello, looking forward to attempting this quilt pattern, it is so beautiful. Can I just confirm, so I know I’m reading instructions correctly, am I right in thinking that the backing will have a seam running midway horizontally across the width of the quilt? Does this end up looking odd with the criss-cross quilting on top of it? Appreciate, it’s probably necessary if no way of getting fabric wide enough for one solid piece! Thank you.

Thanks for writing in! You are correct. The backing has a seam down the middle. The fabric that we used for the backing only comes in 42″ wide bolts and thus the piecing is necessary. If you would like to avoid piecing for the back, you could use the 90 inch wide 200 count muslin in the Natural color. This will allow you to have an upieced back! That said, we do not think that the seam is distracting with the criss-cross quilting in the end!

Beautiful simple baby quilt! Great design and instructions! It went together very nicely in no time. I ran an extra seem when sewing on the corner squares (before trimming them off) and had another set of ready-made tiny half-square triangles for a border around the outside. Thank you for this great pattern!

Thanks for writing in! I am not certain of a timeline for restocking this item. You can certainly write in to our customer service email and see if they have an idea of when it might be back. They can be reached at customerservice@purlsoho.com

This is stunning. I am making it right now and thank you for amazingly clear instructions, and efficiency tips. I love chaining all those squares. The palette is fresh and happy. Purl Soho has the timeless, beautiful projects in all categories.
Thank you for encouraging us to make beautiful things!

I am a quilter. After the small sqs. Are sewn onto the corners of the large square, don’t you need to square up the large squares? I love this quilt. The directions are great. Think I will give it a try!

Thanks for reaching out! We did not find that we needed to square up the larger squares in this lovely pattern but you can certainly do so if needed. You just want to be careful that you maintain the same size for every corner piece as variations caused by squaring them up will be quite apparent in the finished quilt with the 4 color squares in the corners not meeting up of being squares.

My daughter loves your quilt and would like me to make a queen size quilt for her (I am a beginner quilter). Do you know if it is possible to make the squares bigger? 10″ square to maybe 16″ . If I do this what size would I increase the 2 x 2 inch squares? I am trying to limit all the little 2 x 2 inch squares if possible. Thanks

Thanks for reaching out! We are so glad that your daughter loves this quilt! You can certainly increase the size of the squares used here. It is just a matter of proportions and some math! For our quilt, the large squares are cut to be 5 1/2 inches square and the squares in the corner are 2 x 2. With a 1/4 seam allowance, the finished and sewed into the quilt squares will be 5 inches square with triangles that are just around an inch down on each side. So if you would like the finished squares to be 10 inches square, you would cut 10 1/2 squares for the large squares and 4 inch squares for the small squares. If you would like the finished squares to be 16 inches square, you would cut 16 1/2 squares for the large squares and 6 inch squares for the small squares. This should give you a similar look while scaling everything up a bit!

That helps a lot thanks. I would like to do this as a “quilt as you go” as I am working on a small machine. Do you have any suggestions on how I would go about it? I have done several QAYGO quilts but usually have directions to tell me at which point I would quilt the 3 layers and then join them. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks for writing in! I am not sure how you would modify this pattern for the quilt as you go method. I have never used this method myself so don’t know the best way to go about it. We will certainly keep the technique in mind for the future!

Hi! Beautiful quilt! I love the color scheme and fabrics you’ve chosen and am considering using them for another quilting project. For the Kokochi Double Gauze, the word “gauze” makes me nervous that it wouldn’t be weighty or durable enough for a quilt but you’ve used it here (and it’s very beautiful!). Is it only okay for smaller details on the quilt, as shown here, or is it sturdy enough that a larger proportion of the quilt top could be made of this fabric?

Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Double Gauze fabric consists of two layers of loosely woven gauze that are then tacked together at regular intervals, which lends strength and body to the otherwise lightweight and drapey fabric. It is certainly suitable for larger portions of quilts! In fact, our Lap Duvets are sewn out of Double Gauze for both the front and back. If you haven’t ever used Double Gauze, I highly recommend you give it a try – it is a lovely and unique option for both quilts and garments!

Saw Tiny Tile quilt on Fave Quilts and fell in love with it. Simplicity is always elegant and look forward to making this quilt. I have a severe case of SABLE and this will also help reduce twenty years of fabric collecting.

Thanks for reaching out! Although the colors are similar, we did use two different fabrics for A and B. For Fabric A, we used Moda Muslin, and it creates the background or main color of the quilt top. For Fabric B, we used Kiyohara Fine Solids in Beige, and it is the contrast color in some of the squares for the quilt top and also is used for the quilt backing.

I am following your quilt pattern (and I LOVE it!), however, I noticed that I only got 72 large squares out of 1.5y of Fabric A. I am hoping I have the sizing correct (5.5×5.5) but I’m curious as to where I might’ve gone wrong.

Thanks for writing in! The size of the large squares that you cut from Fabric A should be 5.5 x 5.5 inches. Fabric A should be roughly 110 x 45 inches. At that size, you should be able to cut around 152 squares that are 5.5 x 5.5 inches (nineteen 5.5 squares can be cut along the 110 inch length and eight squares can be cut along the 45 inch length; 19×8= 152). I am wondering if your Fabric A is not the 110 inch size but rather one of the smaller measurements of muslin. This may explain why you are getting so many fewer squares.

Lovely little design, and I must agree with the comments that the instructions are clear and laid out well.
The use of the full square on these corners is excellent for newer quilters. I press the square back to match the original corner of the block *before* I trim off the extra corners. This way, if I’ve gone really wonky, I can catch it early and choose to leave it or redo it at the discretion of my picky brain. That’s much harder to do after you have trimmed. Also, if I feel that I don’t want to waste those tiny triangles, I could take those little fluffs and make teeeensy half square triangles. Honestly, I have done this, but only using larger blocks to start.
I would note that some double gauze fabrics that are available are very loosely woven, so I would understand and appreciate the local store helping the customer find something similar that would allow the sewist to be successful.

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