With grilling season nearly upon us, it's National Burger Month this May. This week I stepped behind the grill in the kitchen of the '21' Club with chef Sylvain Delpique (above right) and got a second opinion from Delmonico's chef Billy Oliva to learn just what it takes to make a burger that doesn't disappoint.

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Why these two spots, in particular?

Delmonico's is credited with serving America's first "Hamburger Steak" back in 1834, when the Delmonico Brothers operated "Delmonico & Brother, confectioners and Restaurant Francais" next door to their original 1827 pastry shop. The dish, a bunless, finely chopped steak, was included on their printed menu, hence the restaurant's claim to be the first place to have a burger on the menu.

The '21' Burger isn't quite as old, but it was one of the world's first "haute" burgers when it was introduced on the menu in the 1940s. It's remained one of the restaurant's iconic dishes and Timecalled it "one of the most influential burgers of all time." While chefs throughout the decades have made slight alterations to the recipe, the mammoth 10-ounce size is a mainstay. "I tried to bring it down to eight ounces when I started last year," Delpique says, "and I nearly had a riot outside. There are certain things you cannot change."

Here, a step-by-step process to crafting a perfect patty:

1. Start with the right beef blend.

A few of the cuts that go into the '21' Club's burger blend.

Joslyn Blair

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"A burger is all about the beef—you have to look at the fat content ratio," Delpique says. "You don't want to go above 15-18 percent fat, because if you cook the burger above rare or medium-rare, you're going to melt all the fat that the butcher puts in, so what's the point? You could end up shrinking a 10-ounce patty down to five ounces." (The '21' Club uses a secret blend of two 28-day-aged prime beef cuts and three different prime cuts from Master Purveyors in the Bronx, but the second-generation butcher won't allow Delpique to reveal the which part of the animal the cuts come from or the meat-to-fat ratio.)

Delmonico's takes a different approach: "We use a precise 76/24 blend for our signature Delmonico Double Cheeseburger to give it a higher fat content and juicier, more flavorful patty," Oliva says, advocating for a higher fat content.

So, if you know you'll be cooking a burger rare or medium-rare, it's okay to go for a higher fat content. If you're cooking patties for people who prefer their meat more well done, chose a leaner blend.

2. Choose a bun that will stand up to the beef.

Joslyn Blair

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Delmonico's opts for brioche, "because the richness of the eggs and butter in the dough holds up to the burger," Oliva says. At '21,' it's a similar challah roll made expressly for the restaurant by Amy's Bread. "It really comes together because the roll is very buttery and you have a lot of fat in the burger and the cheese. Our patty is 10 ounces so you need something strong to hold the burger."

For a nice touch, toast both sides of the buns on the grill, Delpique says. That'll give the top of the bun grill marks that make it look extra special.

3. Season—and then season some more.

Joslyn Blair

Cover one side of the patty with salt and pepper. "You want to season it very well, because there's no seasoning inside," Delpique says. "And you're going to lose some of the seasoning when you cook it."

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4. Let the meat come to room temperature before putting it on the grill.

Joslyn Blair

5. Use a hot pan or a hot grill.

Joslyn Blair

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This is the secret to getting a nice char and a nice crust, according to Delpique.

6. Don't touch the burger while it is cooking.

Joslyn Blair

Pressing on it takes all the moisture out of the patty.

7. Cook until rare to medium rare, flipping just once, for about 2-3 minutes per side.

Joslyn Blair

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Unless the people for whom you're cooking request their burgers more well done (between us, they're missing out on flavor). Donald Trump and Regis Philbin, for example, always want their meat medium-well or well-done, Delpique says.

8. Let the burger REST before serving (and yes, we know this is going to be tough, but trust us—the payoff will be worth it).

Joslyn Blair

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On a cooling rack. For at least five minutes. This step allows burgers to finish cooking on the inside. It also lets the juices on the exterior redistribute within the patty, allowing for maximum juiciness when you take that first bite.

9. Garnish.

Joslyn Blair

Cheese: "At home, I prefer good ol' American slices! It's what I grew up on and so much about what makes you love a certain food is the memories and comfort tied to it," Oliva says. "At the restaurant, I use 5 Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed clothbound white cheddar from Murray's Cheese. It's buttery yet crumbles easily and has a tart and fruity aroma with sweet, brown butter notes that complement the other ingredients nicely."

Onions: Drizzled with olive oil and grilled is that best way to include them, Delpique says.

Bacon: If you're feeling decadent.

Sauce: Ketchup or a special sauce, like Delmonico's original "animal-style" sauce created by Delmonico's first celebrity chef Charles Ranhofer back in the 1800s. '21' also serves its burger with a special sauce that tastes great on the pommes soufflés (potatoes turned into mini balloons) that accompany every patty.

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