I have a T-Rex front stand with the option of using the fork leg or triple tree attachment. So far I've only used the standard fork leg lift for changing my front tire. I have the proper pin from T-Rex for the triple tree and have another tire change coming up. Can I get a valid check of the bearings using the triple tree attachment or will I need to lift it from some other location? Thanks!

The triple-tree stand is great for removing the front wheel, but it will not allow free-turn of the steering head. I have the same problem, and plan to make a device that will lift off of my H&B crash bars, as others on this Forum have done.

Here's a pic of how I did it, using some 2x4s under the front of my S-W crashbars. (I also had tie-downs up to the garage-door opener supports as "insurance", plus some wood and my jack under the engine.) I removed the forks using my T-rex stand.

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Fasteddie - thanks as well. I had seen your photos before but I don't have any crash bars.

I'm thinking I can either use some blocks under the crankcase - seems like there is enough room if I have the right pieces - or possible build a wooden frame that will support the bike under my Puig frame sliders. I'd have to remove the belly pan for clearance but that's not a big deal. Figure I could lift the bike with the front stand, slide the frame support into place and set it down. Might do the same with the rear under the passenger pegs for swingarm/suspension work.

I've seen the Abba stand for sale in the Great White North and a similar stand in the US by Redline... Both around $250 USD. Also one by K&L that sits on top of a scissor jack with a similar upper frame that uses the swingarm pivot. That one is still $200. Wish I had paid more attention growing up on the farm and learned to weld!

... Here, I'm setting the rear on the jack-stands. Somebody posted this idea last week, so I thought that I'd give it a try. I believe the jack-stands worked very well for the back end of the bike--very stable. I used a piece of Schedule 40, 3/4" black iron pipe, 3' long as the bar.

Unfortunately, the jackstands aren't the best for changing out the front tire. I bought them to use while balancing newly-mounted tires. Naturally, I couldn't use them for that purpose with the motorcycle sitting on them! When it came time to install the front wheel back on the motorcycle, I found out that my Harbor Freight stands aren't tall enough--even in their highest position--to give me any support. And, the front-end is heavier anyway, so the stands aren't going to be able to lift the front without some other method of changing the balance.

So, I had to lift from the steering head anyway. . . .

For my purposes the "cherry picker"--style engine hoist is much more versatile than motorcycle stands. I s'pose others may not have the room to store an engine hoist or as many uses for one as I have found, though.

I'm all about using what I have. I use my smaller set of jack stands for the V. The right side slips under the peg with a little lift to top out the suspension while the bike is on the side stand. Then just lift the bike and slide the other one under the left peg. Removing the bags is a must and bag racks give more handholds for lifting. The rear wheel is between two and three inches off the shop floor and the bike is level in these pictures.

OK, I'm not real proud with this but it's what I've come up with today. After supporting the bike by the peg mounts there is still a lot of weight on the front end. I acknowledge that the engine mounts could be used but I'd really not mess with those bolts for a variety of reasons. I found a good jack point near the bird's mouth of the front frame. Just above the radiator there is a "tang" for lack of a better term. This projection is pretty hefty so I thought I'd just go ahead and use it. I flattened one end of a pipe so it would fit on the tang a little more securely. The other end of the pipe seemed to fit nicely over the bottle jack plunger. I drilled a 3/8" hole about 1 1/2" from the end of the pipe and ran a bolt through it so the jack plunger won't just slide up inside the pipe. Then there was the little problem of the pipe hitting both the tire and also the radiator. I made some notches in the pipe and bent it into a slight S shape to get around the problems. Then welded the gaps shut.
Now the bike is hoisted securely on 3 points and it's surprisingly secure. I could weld the jack to a larger base plate and that would improve it even more but I don't think it's necessary.
OK, it looks real goofy and if you want to laugh, well, I'd probably join along. But it really works pretty well and I can easily pull either wheel off with this setup. The price is certainly right. I think next I'll work on a DIY rear stand that uses the spools.

Thanks again Invader. I have a set of jack stands so this gives me plenty of ideas. I was laughing at myself however. Reading the service manual earlier, I saw the entry about removing the muffler and using a jack (I normally put my bikes on a full platform lift and use a scissor jack underneath, so this would be pretty normal for me) but I thought "geez, I don't want to have to remove the muffler". Dawned on my yesterday that to remove my DR650 shock, I don't think twice about loosening the two header bolts, removing the plate covering the header/pipe junction, loosening the junction bolt, removing the three muffler hanger bolts and removing the muffler, and removing two suspension bolts so I can remove the suspension cushion lever... Not to mention finally removing the two shock bolts. That allows me to maneuver the shock through the bottom of the bike and out (factory recommends removing the subframe...). I haven't done it yet, but it appears that removing the muffler on the Versys is a bit easier. Still, would be nice to not have to do it. Since I have the front and rear stands, looks like it's just a matter of lifting the bike with the appropriate stand, sliding the jack stands into place, and letting the bike come to rest.

Thanks guys for the note about the muffler. I've been looking at it but a little leery. My Buell could do it but it actually had jack points designated fore and aft on the muffler. But, I think I will raise the rear with the rear stand, set it gently on jacks under the footpegs but also put my scissor jack with wood under the muffler as an added measure of safety/stability.

Quick update, used my 3 ton HF jack stands at the footpeg mounts to swap in an Ohlins shock - worked great. Was thinking I could use jack stands (probably need a longer set) to place under my sliders which are attached to the engine mounts up front for checking the steering bearings - I'm assuming some of the crash bars mount in the same spot and they seem to be strong enough to support the bike... Anyone see a problem if I can get the jack stand into position as close to the base of the slider as possible?

Quick update, used my 3 ton HF jack stands at the footpeg mounts to swap in an Ohlins shock - worked great. Was thinking I could use jack stands (probably need a longer set) to place under my sliders which are attached to the engine mounts up front for checking the steering bearings - I'm assuming some of the crash bars mount in the same spot and they seem to be strong enough to support the bike... Anyone see a problem if I can get the jack stand into position as close to the base of the slider as possible?

This is exactly what I did. I have the T-Rex sliders. It worked fine. The good thing is you can test the stability before you have completely removed the front stand. Go for it!

Forgot to mention, I bought 4 concrete blocks (two on each side) from Lowe's to put under the Harbor Freight 3 Ton jack stands. They were about $1.50 each.

I remember seing your pics before under the muffler. I looked to do something similar with mine over Christmas but I have a scissor jack and it comes straight up while the muffler is at an angle. I couldn't get a good fit so settled for resting the bike on the footpeg bracket which worked fine.