Description

The House Range is one of the epicenters of climbing in Utah's west desert. Located roughly forty miles west of Delta Utah, north of Hwy. 6, the range is the home of a diverse range of rock: from the crumbling north face of Notch Peak reputedly the second biggest wall in the lower 48, to the pink granite of West Sawtooth Canyon and Painter Springs, to the large amount of relatively untapped limestone in the north part of the range, it's an incredibly dense area of geologic diversity. The House Range is a long way from anywhere and really only worth the drive for those who appreciate the still vastness of the Basin and Range Desert. Better climbing is certainly easier to come by along the Wasatch Front. Those interested in getting off the beaten path and willing to put in the effort will find the most value in this area. Objective difficulties such as lack of water, lack of shade, lack of bathrooms, rough roads and remoteness are certainly to be considered. James Garrett just published his comprehensive guidebook "Utah's West Desert" which anyone interested in this area should be referred to. The desert landscape here is extremely fragile and needs our respect. Please pack out all your waste and be mindful of the plants and animals that call this amazing place home.

Getting There

Located west of Delta just north of Hwy. 50/6. It's possible to approach Marjum and Death Canyons from the east but the majority of the developed climbing is on the west side of the range accessed from the Notch Peak Loop Rd.

On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13...[more]Browse More Classics in UT