Description

This small mountain lies between the East Branch of the Sacandaga River (to its west) and Eleventh Mountain (to its east). Rt. 8 runs along the south edge of it, providing easy access. Perusing a topo, one can see several steep areas, concentrated on west-facing ridges. The flank lying directly over the river looks promising, but to date nothing substantial has been found on it. Rather, the steep ridge farther east holds the most useful formations. The routes are all short, ranging from 25' to 65'.

Getting There

The best resource for finding this area and the ice on it is my blog post on it: Nameless Knob Ice RoutesThe closest flows are about fifteen minutes from the parking area off Rt. 8, near the SW corner of the mtn. The trail goes up toward Square Falls; follow it, crossing a creek, and continuing onward for a total of about twelve minutes, until you can see the steep hillside to the right, across a small swale. To reach the best ice, continue up along the base of this ridge another 30 minutes, reaching a wide area with several ridges lying to every side. In the ravine straight ahead, one can glimpse a small, steep flow (Triple Play); directly above this flow is "Quaerite..."; and if one heads right, walking over a low ridge, the ravine below holds another good flow.

The crux is the final steep curtain.The flow is consistently challenging at its grade; and an excellent lead.The nicest, most aesthetic line on Nameless Knob.After the FA, we TR'd the right side, which is also very nice; WI 4-. We called this Tarnation....[more]Browse More Classics in New York