The Road to Damascus

I reached Damascus, VA on Saturday evening after averaging more than 20 miles per day the past week, and walking 26 on Saturday. Not only have I now been hiking for more than a month, but I’m also in my fourth state – Virginia.

The week’s been a good one. On Monday, after a late start from Erwin, I passed a group of former thru-hikers camping by the Trail and was given a soda – a pretty big deal when you’re out hiking.

On Tuesday I met a cool girl called Wings, who shared some salami with me after a really long, tough climb. We ended up in the same shelter that night, along with a retired English teacher, Beatnik, who’s been section-hiking for 27 years and will finish his last 73 miles of the AT this week.

Wednesday morning I stopped to see the next shelter, Overmountain, a converted barn. There I finally met the other South Africans (Ian and Leslie / Springbok and Kitty), whom I’d both been introduced to by a mutual friend via email, and also heard about from countless other hikers. It was good to hear a familiar accent.

Thursday I slept in the tiny and somewhat rundown village of Hampton, TN, before Friday and Saturday’s push to reach Damascus. Sunday was a much-needed zero day here, and last night I was treated (by surprise) to a real South African braai. Ian and Leslie have expat friends visiting them here, and came to pick me up to join their supper. Two other familiar hikers, Little Bird and Halflife, were passing by and promptly also invited. It was a great evening – a good touch of home.

My body keeps throwing up new aches and pains, leaving me feeling at once strong and fit but also tired and sore. I am enjoying the hike and the simplicity of it all, but was also hit in the last few days by a sense of diminishing returns. I can tell all this is doing me good and I’m glad to be here, but at the same time there’s very little stimulation or novelty. I am unsure how long it will remain worthwhile, or more worthwhile than other things I could be doing. I’ll join my family for a holiday in 3 weeks, though, so at least till then I’m hiking on :-)

Hiker party with soda, snacks and beer. What more could you ask for when hiking in the wilds?

There were some lovely balds this week – makes a great change to be able to see a view!

I disagree with Liehann (sorry Liehann :-))… I don’t think you need to finish in order to reap the benefits of this experience. If the returns are diminishing then there’s nothing wrong with leaving the trail before you planned to. Besides, you can always do like Beatnik and come back throughout your life to section-hike the rest. With all the time you have to think on the trail, plus you EXCEPTIONAL reasoning abilities, I have no doubt that you will choose the best course of action without regret.

I’m very proud and impressed with what you have achieved already and I hope that you continue to make the most of every step.

The people you meet seem to bring the novelty… but you can meet people on and off the trail. It promises to be an interesting year regardless of where your wanderings take you. Thanks for sharing so much. Love you!