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Topic: LG dishwasher snoring noise (Read 3832 times)

I have an LG model LDF6810ST dishwasher. It's about 7 years old. Just recently it started making a rhythmic noise while washing that sounds like someone snoring. It doesn't always do it, but if it does, it happens during the first wash activity (rinse?) and/or during the main wash activity. If I open the door and add 2 cups of water, that fixes it for that wash activity. I have never seen an error code. I have disassembled and cleaned the sump unit from the inside, down to the heater and cutting knives. It was greasy but I didn't find any debris. The problem continued. What could be the cause of this and what could I do to stop it?

Thanks for this, I will replace the sump assembly and post the results. For my curiosity and that of others who may have the same problem, what is actually wrong with the sump assembly, and why does adding water cure it for that wash cycle?

It doesn't.An anecdotal observation/coincidence.Simply interrupting the wash cycle by opening the door and re-starting the wash cycle when the door has been closed---will yield nearly identical "results".

During manufacturing---certain parts of the Wash Motor components are made a using heavy machine press.The oil/coating that was applied to the *press*---at that time---were later found to be chemically- reacting (degrading) the Wash Motor.

All LG dishwashers built *before* 2008 were prone to early Wash Motor failure.

TIP: When installing the new SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604)---leave the TURBIDITY SENSOR plug off (do not connect).This will allow each of the cycles to "run" their full allotted/programmed times---without interference from the over-aggressive Turbidity/Soil Level Sensor (reducing cycle duration/run time).Disconnecting (or leaving unplugged) this sensor---will NOT trigger any error message.

Thanks for all the details. I had thought the problem was a low water level, and the cyclical snoring sound was the pump sucking air. This seemed to be confirmed when it stopped after adding some water!

I have had mine make a noise like that during the main wash, but when I opened it there was suds in there. It was the detergent I was using(Finish powerball). Using the Cascade Complete pac causes no noise or suds. Also, my DW is not LG but a KM Elite.

If yours only makes the noise during main wash maybe it is your detergent??

Thanks so much for your suggestion, and I wish it were that simple! However, we have been using Cascade Complete from long before this issue appeared, and there are no suds when I open the door to add water. It looks like john63 has the solution.

<<<I had thought the problem was a low water level, and the cyclical snoring sound was the pump sucking air.>>>

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If the water valve malfunctioned---and allowed too little water to enter the tub---this will trigger an "IE" error.

If the DRAIN HOSE is incorrectly installed (through the floor,for example--rather than to a sink disposer) and loses water gradually during the *wash cycle*---this will cause an error---"1E".

In addition to the "1E" error---the Wash Motor will run normal (sound) and then accelerated (higher pitch motor sound)---then back to normal. Continually---until the correct amount of water is in the tub (or the "1E" error occurs).

While replacing the Sump Assy---take a moment to inspect the FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A) located on the left side of the dishwasher.Older LG dishwashers have a metal side panel---which must be removed to access the Float Assy/Guide Assy.Check the condition of the two *styrofoam floats* within the Float Assy.If *well water* is used---it's entirely possible that the *floats* are "gummed up" with dirt/clay/grime---occasionally affecting water level accuracy/consistency (correct amount needed).If heavily contaminated---an attempt to clean out the Float Assy chambers can be made---or replace the Float Assy altogether.

However---all LG 6810 dishwashers *did* have the "flawed" Wash Motor.

Typical symptoms of a failing Wash Motor...

1) Poor wash performance/results

2) Noisy during wash cycle (chirping/growling/grinding/howling/"dirt bike sound"/"hooting owl" are some of the descriptions that owners have mentioned over the years)

3) "LE" error (dead unit).

Last Tip:

Remove the front panel/cover of the dishwasher.

Check/inspect the wire loom that runs/routes from the bottom of the door---up to the detergent dispenser assy.Verify that none of the wires are damaged (pulled apart).Wrap the entire wire loom with electrical tape---from the bottom of the door---up to the detergent dispenser.Cut a small section of cardboard and place it between the wire loom and the sticky door liner/insulation.This will prevent future damage to the wires caused by the black tar-like insulation.Newer dishwashers use a *cloth* liner.

Thanks so much! I will do all of that. So there is a separate float assembly...I didn't find anything in the sump when I disassembled it, and wondered how the water level was sensed.The dishwasher should last many years after this major renovation!

I am still waiting for the sump assembly (being shipped to Hawaii).This is an update on what I have done in the meantime.First, I checked the water level visually several times when I heard the noise and opened the door to add some water.The water level was always the same and looked like it was correct, if much more it would overflow out of the door.Sometimes adding water stops the noise, sometimes it doesn't, just like john63 said.So now I am convinced it is not a water level issue.I removed the float assembly anyway, it was dirty (black deposits) but didn't look like it was clogged. I have cleaned it and replaced it.I removed the front panel and found some of the wires imbedded in the black goop. I made the suggested modifications.So I am very confident in all that john63 has said, thanks to him again.I will post again when I have the new sump assembly installed.