Colibriguitars, congratulations on a very fine and inspiring build! You put me to shame. The more I see of this model, the closer I get to wanting to make a start. Your craftsmanship appears to be “top notch”, just excellent. And of course, as already mentioned, what a wonderful choice of colours and an excellent covering job. Well done.
John

Thanks JohnAV8R, can not wait to see another Sundancer Tomtit arround, at first it looks hard to build, but once you start to cut balsa, it´s starts to take shape for a nice plane.... Thanks for watch and hope you start yours!

These measurements are taken at the widest part of the rudder and elevator.
You should use the low rate settings for all normal flying, they are plenty, I only use the high rates for spins and stall turns.

Thanks a lot Monza...
Yes! i build and fix guitars for living. i´m a graphic designer who hates stay sit front a computer making images, of fixing photos. so i learned to build and fix electric guitars.
build planes has my first close to wood, when i was kid (12 years old) i used to visit an old hobby store, "casa Vega" and the daughter of the original owner had a lot of free flight planes, like fokker d7 by comet, signed by the "vega" house. i wanted some IC motors, and RC planes, but i was poor! so i just can buy some little models.
At that time, the Sanwa Cox TX was like a fortune for me!
since i was a boy with no much people around, i just build like 5 or 6 FF models with no possibilities to fly them and stopped building.
a year ago i get an Guillows kit, but did not like the laser cuts, they are not acurated as i can imagine and start to look at the web. so.. here i´am. learning RC now i´m able to make some money!
But don´t you think, wood skills... yes, but guitars are lager, heavier, and less fragile.

Images

Interesting looking model Rodrigo, I don't think it is a copy of anything, I certainly have never seen it before.

Since you don't have rates on your Tx I strongly advise that you use the lower figures - 15 mm for the rudder and 10 mm for the elevator, especially for the elevator, to start with. Once the model is trimmed and you are used to it you might want to increase them a little, but these settings are fine for all normal flying.

Monza Red is right about your workmanship, it has been a pleasure for me to see what a lovely job you have made of my design.

i will set up for normal weight, i had some trouble with stick jet, i pull to much. Now my tomboy is flying so good, and my redwing still to responsive... need to learn to move the sticks more soft or fix the Servo/horn .

As George suggests, this is a spark ignition Arden. Judging from the size of the other engines, I think it's a .19.
The accessory, sold with the engine, was simply called "free flight chassis", and was intended as a simple way of installing the coil and batteries, etc. in the nose of a FF model.
Later Ardens had a black bakelite tank, which resists glow fuel, but this is an earlier clear plastic tank, so don't put glow fuel in it!
This engine should run OK as a glow, preferably with some nitromethane and plenty of oil (not just modern commercial glow fuel), but remove the tank first, to avoid any contact with glow fuel.