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Going sky high in the Dominican

It’s not all about the beaches in the Dominican Republic. A cable car to mountain peak reveals a delightful garden and inspiring views in Puerto Plata.

The cable car to the top of the mountain overlooking Puerto Plata is a thrill ride with a real surprise at the end of it. (Dominican Tourism / photo)

The beach in front of the Coral Marien hotel in Puerto Plata is an example of the Dominican's beautiful white sands. (Dominican Tourism / photo)

The hour-long Bravissimo show at the Ocean World casino features 30 dancers, more than 120 costumes and a whole lot of smiles. (Rod Charles photo / for the Toronto Star)

By Rod CharlesSpecial to the Star

Fri., Sept. 10, 2010

PUERTO PLATA, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC — My guide leans over and whispers to me, “Jesus Christ lives on a mountain hidden in the clouds.”

Those words are followed by the shutting of a silver metal door, a slight rumble and a quick prayer as our cable car, or teleférico, pulls out of the station and begins a slow, determined 20-minute climb up a steep, green, cloud-capped mountain.

Along the way I am treated to a breathtaking view of the entire city and the Atlantic Ocean before we slip into the clouds and finish our ride at the top of Mount Isabel de Torres on the south side of Puerto Plata, a dizzying 782 metres above.

Once we are off the cable car it slowly comes into view through the fog as we walk toward the Natural Monument Hill Isabel de Torres botanical garden — a nine-metre statue similar to but much smaller than the “Christ the Redeemer” in Rio de Janeiro, standing guard over the garden and the city itself.

With three kilometres of subtropical forest, trails, plant life, soft-flowing streams and colourful birds, this is a beautiful place to start your journey into Puerto Plata and lose yourself for an hour or so in quiet meditation — a steep and welcomed contrast to the high energy and noise of the city below.

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A trip on the 2,700 foot cable car will cost you 350 pesos ($10 CA). There is a road going up the mountain and if you are up to the challenge, you can make this painful calorie-destroying journey by foot, an undertaking that will take you about 2 ½ to three hours. The park has a restaurant and shopping area and is open from 8am until 5pm from Tuesday to Sunday.

The cable car and surprising botanical garden on the top of a mountain are a great example of the beauty — and shortcoming — of Puerto Plata. The truth is most people who come to the city have no idea attractions like the cable car exist.

“It’s an amazing thing because Puerto Plata doesn’t have the same ‘beach draw’ as it’s cousin Punta Cana, and it isn’t like other cities that a person will visit knowing that they are going to be able to see something in particular, like the Eiffel Tower,” says Micaela Chappell, an onsite travel representative who works in the city. “Of all the tourists I speak with, only a fraction even know about the cable car or botanical garden before they arrive and they’re always floored after their visit. I think it’s one of the most beautiful places in the country.”

Just to be clear, there are nice beaches in the area: Long Beach is right in the city; Paradise Island is a sandbar that is a half hour speedboat ride away from the coast; and Playo Dorada beach runs directly behind a group of resorts. Among them is the beautiful 503-room Barceló Resort, which has an excellent buffet and boasts the only Premium Club Section in the region.

But beaches aside, the city is one of interesting extremes and wide-ranging adventures, attractions and incredible road trips.

One of those interesting attractions is Ocean World Adventure Park, Marina, and Casino, which catches many tourists off guard simply because of the sheer size of the facility. It’s simply not the kind of thing you expect to see in the Caribbean and looks like a building transplanted from Las Vegas.

Built in 2004 and located 15 minutes west of Puerto Plata city, the 35-acre complex can accommodate 104 vessels. The Ocean Park features the largest man-made dolphin habitat in the world, with more than 12 million gallons of seawater and an artificial beach, a zoo, and areas for sea lions and birds. You’re given the opportunity to interact with the animals and while it definitely isn’t cheap (prices start at $129), it’s something that stands out.

Just as impressive is the aquatic-themed casino, which sits adjacent to the marina and features the Bravissimo Show, a colourful spectacle reminiscent of the Jubilee show at Bally’s in Las Vegas, only smaller and with no nudity.

“Like Mount Isabel de Torres, a lot of people are really blown away by Ocean World and the Bravissimo Show because they had no idea that it was here before they arrived,” says Chappell. “And the fact that you have an opportunity to swim with a dolphin in the afternoon and see a Las Vegas style show at night surprises some people.”

Showcasing about 30 beautiful and talented dancers, guests are taken on an hour-long interpretive and colourful musical journey highlighting different themes of the Dominican Republic culture. It’s a fitting interpretation for a region with wide-ranging, contrasting, colourful, over-the-top, and often hidden elements.

Rod Charles is a Toronto-based freelance writer.

Just the Facts

COSTS: The Bravissimo Show runs about $49 U.S., including unlimited drinks during the show and roundtrip transportation from nearby hotels. It also offers a $10 casino voucher for after the show — but you have to buy $20 of casino credits before you can use it. Show starts at 9 p.m.

TIP: The cable car to Mount Isabel de Torres is less crowded on weekdays. Go early in the morning to avoid cloud cover.

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