St. Cecilia Restaurant Review

: This huge 11,000-square-foot space that was once BluePointe was redesigned by Meyer Davis Studio to become Atlanta restaurateur Ford Fry’s Mediterranean seafood establishment. There’s a second-floor private room; on the main level, three stone chef’s tables together seat 12 in front of the icy crudo bar. A roaring mini-hearth roasts the fish of the day. Start with a classic cocktail or a glass of wine from the solidly composed list, an exciting assortment of unusual options. The menu changes daily, but the dishes may be changed slightly in presentation and embellishment. So the hamachi crudo, for instance, could be supported by strawberries and cucumber, or compressed apricot and pickled ramps. Ricotta gnudi may come with duck ragù or black truffle and sorrel purée. Rabbit will be found somewhere, tucked into a crespelle or filling a fresh pasta. Seafood --- most of it the fin variety --- is featured. Scallops remain a permanent fixture for their sweet taste and ability to adapt to the adornments of a given day. New York strip loin might arrive with smoked spring onions and asparagus or smoked cipollini. Meat-free pastas usually round out the offerings; we favor the spring pea risotto if available. Italian-inspired desserts make choosing difficult, with an extensive list of dessert wines to complicate, and complement, the matter.