Thursday, 1 November 2012

A visit from Scotland.

Last week three friends of mine, Greg, Adam and Dougie came
to Chamonix for a quick Alpine hit. We had a few ideas but things were warming
up!

Leaving cham and heading for the Dru.

We had our sights set on the Dru Couloir Direct. I've always
fancied the original route, but knowing Greg's capability's with the tools I
thought this route would be more fitting. As the Montenvers train wasn't
running we had to walk 6.5 hours from Chamonix to the bivvy site below the Dru.
The foen wind was having a massive effect on the mountains. Warm air rushing
around and melting a lot of snow and ice away. As we knew the temperatures were
really warm for this time of year, we thought it'd be best to get up at 1am to
give us the best chance of colder temps. Even at 1 in the morning it still
wasn't that cold, but still decided to
go up and have a look for ourselves. Walking up the soft glacier to the start
of the route we realised how warm it actually was. We went up to the bottom of
the route and after getting dumped on by a big mass of snow and ice falling
from the route, we quickly decided to head down. After a few hours sleep back
at the bivvy sight we walked back down to Chamonix.

Wee mouse fancied a midnight snack.

After a lot of dithering about what to do next we decided it
would be a safer bet to go up the Midi and climb something up there. I hadn't
been up there for about 3 weeks so wasn't sure what would be in good condition.
The best idea I could come up with was to take a small bivvy tent, that Rab
kindly supplied me with, and head for the East face of the Tacul. If everything
was in poor condition I thought a safe bet would be 'Scotch on the Rocks' or
'Vol du Nuit'. But as we neared the face we were greated with a lot more snow
and ice than anticipated. To our delight 'Supercouloir' was looking really
healthy, the main couloir was a nice colouir and also the direct looked quite
fat. Greg and I had been wanting to climb this ultra classic alpine route for a
few years so we were super excited to both be here and to have the place to
ourselves. Not having much faith in how this warm weather was going to act the
next day we agreed that it'd be best to climb at night! So we quickly and
easily put up the tent and got some food in our bellies. Then off we went for a
wee adventure!

Grabbing a bite.

Greg heading up to the Tacul.

As we approached the bottom of the route it was getting
dark, but everything was still visible from the moon's glow. The temps were
still quite warm but nothing compared to that on the Dru. Greg dispatched the
direct pitches which consisted of a lot of ice not soundly bonded to the rock.
The crux pitch before entering the couloir was amazing and probably felt around
Scottish 8. Once in the couloir itself I took over to climb the superb ice pitches
that lead to the final wall. Greg lead the final pitch which was a huge wall of
ice and of amazing quality all the way. We topped out around 3am and after a
quick pat on the backs we rappelled down the route on the bolt belays, which
make things so much easier. It felt so nice to be able to walk down from the
route and just climb into a sleeping bag in the tent. I was amazed and pleased
with how quickly the tent heated up, and wasn't too bad for space for the two
of us.

Gearing up at the bottom.

Greg starting the Crux pitch.

Greg pulling out left to finish the pitch.

Happy little chappy.

We woke up a few hours later and had a nice relaxing morning
in the sun talking about every route in sight, before we packed up and headed
back up for the midi. Normally this walk is horrible, which it still was, but
this the conditions of the snow pack was brilliant We were able to walk on top
of the surface rather than breaking through which made life so much easier.

Room with a view.

The patio door!

Greg getting the morning brew on.

The next day Greg, Dougie and Adam were really keen to go
check the main dry tooling venue near Chamonix. Seen as these
boys live in their local cave in Scotland tooling away to there hearts content, I thought it'd be nice to take these animals to the Zoo!

Adam McGuns.... crashing through the steep ground.

Adam flashing the Zebra.

Me on the start of the Zebra.

The last section of the Zebra.

Greg loving his first visit to the Zoo.

We all warmed up on the Moose graded M6, which is the
classic route of the crag, and the Giraffe giving M6+. We all then went and watched Greg onsight the Zebra M10.
This route is really steep and has biggish moves between the holds. Adam then
flashed it and Dougie was robbed from his flash attempt after falling off at
the chains. These boys were pulling big moves and swinging around like apes.
This got me worried as I've never been really good at tooling, as I find it hard to power through big moves. I got on the route and surprised myself by also managing to flash the route. Watching and climbing with these guys has got me really keen to work at getting strong on the tools. Especially for this winter and few big trips I've got planned for next year. I'm loving the Ice-mutant boots from Boreal. They are so good to use and feel really light on the feet, with amazing precision. Thanks guys for a great wee trip.

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About Me

My life has always had a big influence from climbing and the amusing culture that goes with it! Due to coming from a family of relatives and friends that enjoys the outdoors.
I try to be out in the mountains as much as I can enjoying my time, Climbing, skiing, running and having fun.
I work with my sponsors who have been a massive help to me and allowing me to spend more time outside.
Thanks