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Monday, 29 February 2016

Conceived by Creator Directors Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl
Lagerfeld, the Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection explores new textures,
soft silhouettes and bold embroidery with a romantic twist. Star of the
collection are the waves and the botanical detailing, spotted on the
garments as well as on the accessories. Also, debuting on the runway, is
the DotCom bag in its Mini version, embellished with the must-have
Strap You.

Karl Lagerfeld offered up a lightheartedly trenchant quote before the Fendi collection set foot on the runway: “Voltaire said, What needs an
explanation is not worth explaining.” Teasing those who make
intellectual pronouncements about fashion collections with the words of a
philosopher is a typical Lagerfeldian flourish. So let us swiftly
dispense with cogitating over the source of the waves inspiration behind
Fendi’s show. Sound waves? Electricity, magnetism, something
scientific? No matter. There’s a perfectly good set of fashion terms for
what we saw here: a timely creative streak centered on things to do
with ruffles, frills, and flounces. “We don’t overintellectualize, we
just do!” declared Lagerfeld. “And we don’t suffer doing it!”

The
show briskly spun out ideas on the trends du jour: thigh-high boots
with undulating frills around the tops and the shoe uppers, and
ruffled, yoked blouses and dresses. There were wavy stripes set into
furs and printed on midi dresses. A short navy cocoon coat was cut into
3-D concentric circles, like ripples on a pond. Somewhere along the wavy
line, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Lagerfeld started having fun, too,
making costly pastel fox fur coats mimic the playful appearance of girly
fake furs. It looked unforced, contemporary and exactly what girls would want to wear now.

Enjoy the FENDI Fall/Winter 2016/17 runway show at the end of this post!

It was there
in the silhouettes the big-sleeved, high-neck, high-waisted, and pleated
midi thing that’s currently going on. In Fendi’s case, they provide the
backdrop for ultra-luxurious house materials and skills: summer furs in
a rattan-basketwork open-weave technique, cropped jackets in
whipstitched patchwork python and braiding and smocking effects. Fendi x
Karl Lagerfeld may be 50 years old as a collaboration, but in some ways
it’s still ridiculously, friskily young. Again, in a good way.

Thursday, 4 February 2016

A ray of sunlight pierces the Parisian
skies on a cloudy January 26th, and illuminates the dome of the
Grand Palais. Like a reminder of spring in the middle of winter, it
signals the start of Karl Lagerfeld’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016
collection show. In an exaltingly bucolic set, a wooden house with
closed shutters blends in with the vegetation. The door opens to reveal
the first silhouettes. One by one, seeming to slow their pace to better
take advantage of the moment, the models wander through this Eden.

Stunning Kendall Jenner & Gigi Hadid

To celebrate this rite of spring – a nod to Stravinsky’s work, beloved
by Gabrielle Chanel – aerial materials mingle with wooden embroideries.
Soft colours, chosen amid beige palettes, are accompanied by gold
ornaments. The variations in volume and inverted forms bring to mind the
eccentricities of nature – as in these short oval-sleeved jackets whose
generous curves contrast with the finesse of pencil skirts. A
smartphone cover accessorizes each outfit. A subtle detail to assert
that this sweet, timeless collection is also furiously modern. The
models pace the catwalk, laid out in wood tiles on the grass, in
cork-soled platform pumps. The delicate, poetic silhouette designed by
Karl Lagerfeld is completed by an imperial bun and a dab of eyeliner
reminiscent of ancient idols.

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Bees appear on tulle and muslin, as well as on the jewels. The fabric
insects seem to buzz around the long dresses and printed flowers. "I am a
bee, that is part of my sign, the Lion, the Sun. Women of this sign are
hard-working, courageous, faithful, undaunted. That is my character. I
am a bee born under the sign of the Lion", in the words of Coco, queen
of the rue Cambon. The bride appears, clad in a dress where natural
materials are in marvelous harmony, and the hood of which arouses the
curiosity of the audience.

The wooden shutters open slowly on the models for the finale,
choreographed by Karl Lagerfeld. The music stops, the applause rises
from the stalls, and cries of joy ring out from the backstage. Rays of
sunlight now stream onto the set, bringing radiance to the blue of the
sky and the green of the lawn where the models walked. The smell of
freshly cut grass fills the Grand Palais.

'Sister Act' - Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner at CHANEL Spring/Summer
2016 Haute Couture presentation last week, here with these new haute
couture pouches. Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring‑Summer 2016 collection features
belts and mobile phone pouches which are as sophisticated as the
outfits that they accompany. "This is our new bag (…), identical to
those used by 15th century ladies of the manor to carry their keys; any
other accessory would be too much”, he quips.

Variations on Beige by CHANEL Spring 2016 Haute Couture -
"Gabrielle Chanel was the Queen of beige”, explains Karl Lagerfeld.
Ranging from off-white to ochre, very light brown and shades of raw
wool, linen and cotton, beige is one of the most versatile neutral
tones. It offers a perfect balance between the warmth of brown and the
freshness of white. With hints of ecru, ivory, sand, dove, putty, taupe
and mocha, the Artistic director presents the many faces of one of
Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite shades, featuring floaty dresses, blouses
and muslin fabrics, floral embroidery, jackets and skirts.“I go
back to beige because it’s natural", she used to say. A real fascination
for nature was reflected in her interiors where beige was the chosen
color for furniture and carpets, which reminded her of “earth floors”.
She used it in her collections, applying it to her jersey pyjamas, her
tweed suits and her shoes. She also combined it with the elegance of
black and white to create a stylish statement women adopted unanimously
and which Karl Lagerfeld went on to enrich with his own talent.

The pièce de la résistance was in green
velvet brocade, worn by the redheaded model Irina Kravchenko it had a train, and a sheer
bodice on which the pattern of the brocade had been cut out and
reappliquéd. It was one of those completely stunning dresses that will
lodge in the memory of haute couture highs.