Tasty Bisque A Benefit Of Lobster Season

July 30, 1992|By Elizabeth Rahe, Staff Writer

A couple of readers recently asked questions about lobster -- just in time for Florida`s mini-season for sport lobster hunting (it ends today) and the start of the state`s commercial spiny lobster season (it begins Aug. 6).

Q. I would like Down Under`s recipe for Lobster Bisque. -- L. Holmes, Coconut Creek

A. Executive chef Rex Thornton of Down Under Restaurant (3000 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 1-305-563-4123) shared his recipe for the luscious soup. With his help, we changed it for the home cook.

It calls for 5 pounds of shells (carapaces). Maine or northern lobster shells have the best flavor, says Alex Swain, owner of Atlantic Seafood in Fort Lauderdale. If you`re going to make them with Florida or spiny lobster shells, throw in some of the meat, too, he says. So if you`re going lobstering today, save one of those babies and some hulls to make the bisque.

The shells are sometimes available from seafood markets during commercial Florida lobster season (Aug. 6 through March 31).

For the uninitiated, northern or Maine lobster are the live, dark-red creatures with claws you see swimming around in restaurant and supermarket tanks. Florida or spiny lobsters are clawless greenish-blue-shelled guys (the shells turn reddish-orange when cooked) that are seldom sold alive because the meat toughens if it`s chilled while the animal is alive, Swain says. You`re most likely to see the whole crustaceans or the tails, the only edible part, packed on ice or frozen.

In a large stockpot over medium heat, heat vegetable oil. Add lobster shells or split lobster and saute on medium-high for 5 minutes. Add diced vegetables and garlic; saute until tender. Stir in tomato paste, bay leaves, pepper and thyme, white wine, sherry and brandy. Add water or fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 1 hour.

Using a slotted spoon, remove shells or lobster and discard. Allow broth to cool slightly, then puree in batches in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Strain through a medium strainer. Return broth to pot and bring to a simmer.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter or margarine. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute to remove raw taste of flour. Add to the broth and simmer 10 minutes. In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat cream until hot to the touch. Add to broth; do not allow to boil. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve hot or cold, with a dollop or swirl of whipped cream and a sprinkle of lemon zest on top, if desired. Makes about 10 cups bisque; 8 servings, about 1 1/4 cups each.

* During Florida commercial spiny lobster season, which runs Aug. 6 through March 31, lobster shells (carapaces) are sometimes available at seafood markets. Call ahead to check. If you can`t get them, use a 1- to 1 1/2-pound northern (Maine) lobster with meat or 1 pound of spiny (or rock) lobster tail with meat. For a live lobster, kill by inserting a sharp knife where the head meets the tail. Turn the lobster on its back and use kitchen shears to cut through the middle of the shell on the underside of the tail. Spread the halves apart and remove the papery stomach sac from behind the eyes. You can either leave the pale gray-green tomalley (liver) and the red coral (ovary and roe), if it is present, or remove and discard. With northern lobster, you might want to eat the claws separately because they are too good for soup -- even bisque. Boil just until done, 5 to 6 minutes, remove, crack and eat the meat.