Thursday, July 31, 2014

(A WATER COLOUR BY WILLIAM CARPENTER 1854)This Painting shows a Kakear ( One who used to serve Hookah to customers)

Sometimes only Dua salaam , sometimes a handful of rice and sometimes a coin . That is what the Kakear ( Roadside mobile HOOKAH shop ) got who offered people Hookah puffs in the BAZAAR. Kakear was a part of the kashmiri society . He carried a bag across his shoulder in which he would keep three or four tongs , a pouch of fresh Tobacco and some charcoal in a Kangri nearby. This was a mobile Hooka shop that existed in a BAZAAR . They would also be seen in Fairs and gatherings outside shrines.Pay something and have a puff. Not in cash . Pay in kind as well. He would cater to poor and the working class who could not carry the Hooka along .

Kashmiri Pandits were also addicted to HOOKAH. A HOOKAH was the first thing that was kept ready in the morning by the Daughter in law generally for her father in law. Sometimes the son would perform this duty . It had to be cleaned , a kangri had to be kept ready with burning charcoal , the tobacco box had to be kept full and a measured quantity of water had to be put inside the HOOKAH water tank so as to produce proper gurgling sound . Excess water would neither produce the Gurgling sound but would invariably enter the mouth on puffing .

Once The eldest family member had his puffs , he would keep the HOOKAH aside and leave for his daily work . Young boys would also take a puff secretly . It was followed by Puffs from womenfolk in the afternoon .

Kashmiris were addicted to Tobacco through this HOOKAH or JEJEER.

With the arrival of Cheap cigarettes and overall development and progress in many spheres ,Kakears or kakouris (as some people called them ) suddenly became non existent from kashmiri society sometime around 1975 or 1976.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

(Photograph by R.E.Shorter 1911 . The Tailor Master is at work with his SINGER FOOT PEDAL SEWING
MACHINE while a group of Pandits are seated on the shop front and busy in
gossiping and posing for the photograph
)

According to Walter Lawrence ( From “Valley of Kashmir “ published in 1895 ),

"The vast majority of the Pandits belong to the Karkun class
and have usually made their livelihood in the employment of the State. But as
State employment became harder to obtain and the numbers of the Pandits
increased, the Brahmans of Kashmir sought other occupations. Briefly, it may be said that a Pandit may
follow any trade or occupation except those of the cobbler, potter, corn-friar,
porter, boatman, carpenter, Mason, or Fruit-seller etc.

Pandits have been known
to adopt the profession of Acting and Music, and a Pandit now in my employment
was once a cavalry soldier in the army of His Highness the Maharana of
Oodeypore ( Udaipur ). As time goes on
these intelligent and quick-witted people will no doubt take to new occupations.
But the present Karkun
Pandit regards the pen as his natural destiny, and though many have taken to
agriculture and many more are looking to land as a means of employment and
subsistence, they would infinitely prefer to spend their lives as clerks in
some office. The Pandits of the villages consider it no degradation to follow
the plough and to carry manure; but the city Pandit, who has not severed
himself from the literary atmosphere of the capital, is inclined to look down
upon the Brahman agriculturist, and though he will take a wife from the
villages he will not, if a man of any position, permit his daughter to marry
into a village family.

The future of the city Pandits is a matter of some
anxiety. They have not the keen trading instinct of the natives of the Panjab,
and may neglect the chances of commerce which easier communications with India
should now offer. "

From the above statement of Walter lawrence , it appears
that Pandits had no hesitation towards taking up Tailoring as a profession in
19th century .

I have also heard that
cinema Actor A K HANGAL ( 1914-2012 ) , Born in a kashmiri Pandit
family of Peshawar , started his
early life as a Tailor ; But then this kashmiri Pandit Family had
migrated out from Kashmir valley long back and as
such was far away from the mainstream
and Core Kashmiri Pandit society .

For sure , Kashmiri Pandits had some aversion towards joining any Business activity .
A job that required a pen in hand or meant writing work was generally sought after
by them .That is why no kashmiri Pandit was an Artisan . By artisan I mean carpenter , Tailor ,
Masson , Blacksmith, Papier Mache Artist
, Shawl embroider , Carpet weaver , Plumber etc . etc. During my childhood , I could
see just one Masson , One carpenter and
some drivers from kashmiri Pandit community.

Although many Pandits
had Bakery ( Kaandhar vaan )
shops or worked as professional cooks but for marriage within the core kashmiri Pandit society , these
men could not get a match. Accordingly , Most of them had to get married to
Girls from nearby hilly areas of
Kishtawar , Bhaderwah and Ramban

You can see from the
above photograph clicked in 1911 that there were Kashmiri Pandit Tailoring
shops in Srinagar city .. I am informed
by elders that there was a problem for Boys engaged in this business when they
had to look for a match to get married . Kashmiri Pandit society considered
this business as something inferior and later shunned this occupation
altogether .

But then again ,Some time around 1940 , Lamboodhar Nath Tikoo , An educated and enterprising kashmiri Pandit , belonging to an affluent and infuential family, surprised his community members when he opened a tailoring shop under the name and style of “ NAVYUG TAILORS ” at Habba Kadal Srinagar. Pandit Kashyap Bandhu , A reformist leader amongst Kashmiri Pandits during those days, personally attended the opening cermony of this shop at Habba Kadal. To attract VIP and European customers , the Business location was immediately shifted to Amira Kadal in srinagar City .

Son of an Engineer who had built BC Road during Maharaja's rule, Lamboodhar Nath went to Bombay to study engineering but returned to valley after learning professional Tailoring . He would cater to VIP customers and was much in demand for stitching stylish suits, Tweed coats and fashionable shirts. Very soon, NAVYUG TAILORS opened another branch at Residency Road in Srinagar city. Pandit Triloki Nath Tikoo , a young kashmiri pandit with modern outlook , joined his brother Lamboodhar Nath Tikoo in this venture from day one . For Tikoo brothers , it was also a step towards reforming the community and motivating youth for starting such like business ventures that were tradionally shunned . Tikoo family was from Reshi Peer Mohalla in downtown Srinagar .

Pandit Laxman Joo Tikoo ( Father of Lamboodhar Nath and Triloki Nath ), felt sad and disillusioned at the venture of his sons . Lamboodhar Nath had to start an urdu Newspaper “ NAVYUG “ simultaneously to protect his father from recurring satires from relations and friends for this Tailoring venture looked down upon by orthodox kashmiri Pandit society during those days. Young Nand lal wattal ( who later joined as editor of Urdu newspaper Khidmat ) from Rainawari was brought in as Editor of this news paper . Tailoring Business of Tikoo brothers was directly hit by the second world war as most of their European clients had to move out of kashmir . The tribal raid of 1947 dried up almost all the residual clientele of NAVYUG TAILORS .The News Paper had to be closed down for various reasons . "NAVYUG TAILORS " also pulled down its shutters permanently after sometime .

Some Muslim Boys, who worked as Apprentices at these shops , became excellent Tailor masters and opened independent tailoring shops in Srinagar city .

“ Pandits
have been throughout taunted and
stereotyped as people who despise all manual work or business and prefer only
to Weild the pen , their objection to
other jobs being that they are "derogatory to their Brahmin
identity". This, however, is highly exaggerated and Autar Mota Ji's post
provides one evidence for this. While Pandits living in rural areas would
cultivate their own fields, tend their cows and attend to other farming jobs,
many among those living in urban areas had long discarded their objection to
occupations other than white collar jobs. Though belonging to an
"intellectual class", there were many who would even go for work in
the factories like the silk-weaving factory of Srinagar, for instance, or take
up jobs like that of a plumber, electrician, mechanic, driver etc., besides
work as shopkeepers or small traders. Of course being Brahmins they may still
not "engage in polluting activities such as Barbering, removing and
skinning dead animals, making shoes, winnowing pans and drums, slaughtering
goats and sheep and sheep", as eminent sociologist Prof. T. N. Madan has
pointed out in his study of the Pandits of Uttarsu-Umanagri. I knew A Kashmiri
Brahmin who worked as a barber and had his shop at Fateh Kadal, Srinagar. He
sported a rather large Tilak on his forehead, perhaps to attract Kashmiri
Pandit clients. I have had several haircuts done at his shop when was in my
teens. And now Mota Ji tells us about this KP tailor. Perhaps there were some
more like him or like the Barber I have mentioned.”

Sometime upto 1975, There was a Tailoring shop at kraal Khod Habba Kadal run by One Shamboo Nath ji under the name and style of LAKSHMI TAILORS . Pandit Shamboo Nath ji was himself a expert Tailor Master who could stitch Three piece suits also.

WILLIAM CARPENTER (1818-1899 )William Carpenter ( 1818-1899 ) was a Visual artist from
England who travelled extensively in India . He also visited Kashmir possibly
three times during summers of 1853 , 1854 and 1855 AD . He stayed in India for
about 7 years and kept himself busy in travel and paining .

WILLIAM CARPENTER was a master in drawing Water colour
Landscapes . His water colours show life in Amritsar city , Devotees inside
Golden Temple , Bazaars of Delhi , Benares Ghats ,Mosques , Forts , Rural life
of India , Sadhus , Meditating men, Jain Temples , Forts of Rajasthaan ,Havelis
, Jama Masjid of Delhi , Portraits of Indian rulers ,Jharokhas and so many
other scenes and structures that relate to India . The Victoria and Albert
Museum bought over 280 of his paintings. His water colours are being exhibited
in various galleries world over .

In 1853 ,he made a Doonga trip to Kheer Bhawani shrine via Nalla Maar and drew some
fantastic landscapes . He also visted
various shrines of Kashmir including
Makhdoom Sahib’s Ziyarat at hari Parbat and painted its inside view . I add his water colours ( two ) showing morning scene
at Kheer Bhawani shrine Tulamula with kashmiri Pandits taking a bath( before
entering the Sanctum sanctorum ) and therafter sitting inside the shrine under Chinar Trees .The paintings have beeen done in 1853.

And now his water colour ( done in 1855 ) showing inside view of Ziyarat of Makhdoom Sahib in srinagar city.

And below lies his water colour ( done in 1854 ) of Shah e Hamdaan Mosque in Downtown Sringar city ..

And a water colour of Beautiful Nigeen Lake of Kashmir done by the Artist in 1855

Looking at this picture I observe that the artist has painted Mother and child belonging to the hardworking Haanji ( Boatmen ) community of Kashmir. The Hairstyle and Kasaba ( Headscarf ) worn by the woman is typical and belongs to this community . The child is in tatters but carefree and innocent . The mother and the child are holding Oars and the mother is possibly teaching the child to paddle the boat at NUMM position . Kalhana calls this hardworking community of kashmir as NISHADAS . Both mother and the child are Pensive. God alone knows what the future has stored for them . I would name the painting as INNOCENCE OF POVERTY .Then there is another painting done again in 1855 that shows the Market of Zaina kadal in Down town srinagar .

I have seen many old photographs of this market . It was exacatly like this. Pulses especially MOONG grown in north kashmir ( Baramulla Belt ) were largely sold by kashmiri traders . The structures on the river bank were made of wood . Fresh vegetables ( Bulk ) ,Rice (mushkabudej, Zag etc. ), and pickle was also sold by local traders in this market . Fresh Fish , dried Fish ( Hoggaad ) and smoked Fish ( Furrie ) was sold at nearby Gaankhan in a lane that came to be known as Gaadda Kocha Zaina kadal . This was the biggest market for local produce . You can see Pickle kept in earthen pitchers on roof tops of these rickety shops . A voguvv ( Dry weed mat ) has been used as a sunshade by a shopkeeper .The painting uploaded below shows Second Bridge of srinagar or what is presently known as Habba Kadal.

The water colour depicts a busy market on the bridge . A market of Rickety wooden structures that sold vegetables , fish , rice , and of course Pickle . Pickle has been kept in earthen pitchers over the rooftops of these shops . This was a retail market and not like the Zaina Kadal Wholesale market . Shah Hamdaan shrine is also visible from below the bridge . The poverty of the shirtless Boatman is starkly visible. .

This water colour has been done in 1855 by William Carpenter . It depicts inside view of Shah e Hamdaan shrine In srinagar .You can see the kashmiri dress ; A Pheran , Dastaar and Kheish ( Chadder ) of the devotees who are engaged in Duroodkhwaani . The elegant Velvet and silken cloth sheets cover the Ceilings and walls inside the shrine. Locally produced ( Handlooms ) Velvet and silk cloth was extensively used by Kashmiris to decorate their shrines within. Even Kashmiri Merchants introduced Velvet to Baghdad during the rule of Harun al-Rashid .William carpenter has also painted Mughal Gardens . His water colour depicting Nishat Garden is a visual treat ..

In 1881 he held his solo exhibtion in England , displaying about 280 Water colours done in India . After this Exhibition all his paintings were purchased by Victoria Allbert Museum England where they are on display presently .

William Carpenter was a bachelor .His mother Mrs Margret
carpenter was also a Portrait Artist .

Water colour tradition is not New ; It had a
glorious past with some Grand Masters creating wonders ...

Friday, July 25, 2014

Dadar , Mumbai 16.07.2014Mumbai is simply rains these days .Nonstop downpour since 15.07.2014 .9AM .Dadar west is a mix of rain washed old buildings , high rise apartments , crowded middle class Bazars , spacious shopping stores and some shopping Malls. Crowded roads , speeding buses and everytime available Taxis painted in black and yellow ; Pay roughly 19 rupees per km for your taxi ride. So cheap by any standard when compare with what we we pay for hiring an Auto Richshaw in Jammu or Srinagar cities . Paid Rs180 from Jahangir Art Gallery Fort to Dadar via Marine Drive , Haji Ali and Praba Devi route .No auto Rickshaw is allowed within the core city.

Life moves as usual in Rains. Every person carries an umbrella with him but almost every person has wet clothes .The executives who come down from their offices to get inside their cars , students pouring out from school buses, ladies shopping in Markets , People moving on roads , Vada Paav and Sandwich sellers , Flower sellers ,Banana sellers, Coconut sellers, commuters pulling themselves out from local trains and Traders on footpaths are drenched but unmindful. Possibly getting wet is not a serious issue for a Mumbaikar.

The high tide (15 feet) near Marine drive that originated from the angry monsoon sea, swept away two persons yesterday.Some buildings collapsed .Flooded Juhu Airport turns into a Lake. The six lakes (That supply water to the city ) namely Modak sagar,Tansa, Vihar,Tulsi, Upper Vaitarna and Bhatsa are getting filled by the downpour. Water water everywhere and so much water to drink . i am informed that the water supplied by Municipality is safe and fit for drinking . our neighbour in Dadar has been drinking it for many years now. He believes that it is better than the so called packaged drinking water sold in the market.

Bhure lal ,the man who irons clothes using a 2 feet by 5 feet wooden plank on foot path , sleeps below the plank at night.Badar ud Din , the denter in a Car workshop sleeps over the plank .If the rains disturb them,they sleep on the steps leading to'Banglore Ayyangar's Bakery' shop .Badru and Bhure are from Eastern UP. Bhure gets 4000 rupees per month and he has to iron around 250 clothes per day. We paid @ 5 rupees per cloth given for ironing.Ram Dhan ,The owner of the wooden plank and the so called Ironing shop is also from eastern UP .He brings clothes from nearby apartments on his bicycle .He also delivers back ironed clothes using his bicycle. He has to pay rent for using footpath space apart from paying electricity bills .RamDhan speaks fluent Marathi.Acting as night watchman, Ram Dhan sleeps inside the shop of Joseph kabaadi. Joseph kabaadi has a shop nearby in the lane. Joseph has a toilet as well inside the shop that looks like an old shabby living room full of old newspapers , books and broken plastic pieces. Stuffy and filthy. Ram Dhan ,Bhure and Badru pay ( Rs200 each per month ) to Joseph kabaadi for allowing them one time ,that too early morning , use of toilet . Joseph comes to his shop at 10.30 AM and locks the toilet . And the life moves on.......This is Mumbai..