Granny Squares Chevron Afghan Crochet Pattern

You might have seen a glimpse of my two-toned granny squares in a recent post where I shared my granny square blocking station. Now I get to share what I made with all those squares – a granny square chevron afghan!

This is a baby-blanket sized project made with 36 two-toned granny squares that were lined up to create a chevron design. I used 4 different colors – a base color plus 3 shades of purple to create an ombre effect. I used a joining method from Petals to Picots as well as Kara’s cluster edging instructions to finish the blanket.

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To make the quilt, you’ll need 12 squares of each color combo: [gray + purple 1], [gray + purple 2] and [gray + purple 3]. The squares are made up of 2 triangles, one of each color, but the triangles are not exactly even from corner to corner. You’ll notice that at the corners where the triangles join, one corner is predominantly gray, and the opposite corner is predominantly purple. When you line up your squares to make the chevron pattern, make sure to line up the predominantly gray corners with each other, and the predominantly purple corners with each other as well. This helps ensure that your chevron comes out clean; otherwise, you’ll see a blip in the pattern where the extra color sticks out.

Unlike other granny squares, these are worked in a combination of rows and rounds, so there’s really no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ side to each square. This means you can flip them any which way in order to get the corners to line up cleanly. The quilt itself has a ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ side though, which you need to be aware of when joining the squares together.

Once the corners are lined up, I joined them using this method from Petals to Picots where I put two squares together, right sides facing each other, and slip stitched the outside stitches together. One very important note: I found out through trial and error that the slip stitches have to be VERY LOOSE in order for the squares to not bunch up. (Next time, I might try a whip stitch.) I actually jumped up 2 hook sizes to create the slip stitches and still forced myself to work very loose stitches across.

Join the squares in each row with matching colored yarn. Then, when you join each row together, you’ll see that you can use one color to join the entire row.

The edging of the blanket is also from Petals to Picots. I used her Cluster Burst Afghan Edging Pattern, but I modified it for my own use. Using my base gray color and working through both loops, I worked 1 sc in each stitch around the entire quilt, while working 3 sc in each quilt corner. Then I followed Kara’s instructions starting from Round 6 using my base color to create only one round of clusters, then Round 7 and Round 8 using an accent color to finish off the piece.

Supplies:

Yarn: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Linen, Eggplant, Dusty Purple and Purple. One skein each. (I had an extra large skein of the Linen, so you may want to have 2 on hand.) H (5mm) and J (6mm) crochet hookblocking station embroidery needle scissors

Round 2: Ch 3. Turn. Work 1 dc into same (corner) stitch. Work 2 dc into the next space between puff stitches. Work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] into corner space. Work 2 dc into next space between puff stitches. Work [2 dc, ch 2] into corner space. Pull up the alternate color through the loop. Work 2 dc into corner space. Work 2 dc into the next space between puff stitches. Work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] into corner space. Work 2 dc into next space between puff stitches. Work [2 dc, ch 2] into corner space. Sl st into top of the ch 3 of the first color.

Round 3: Ch 3. Turn. Work 1 dc into same (corner) stitch. Work 2 dc into each space between the dc pairs. Work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] into corner space. Work 2 dc into each space between dc pairs. Work [2 dc, ch 2] into corner space. Pull up the alternate color through the loop. Work 2 dc into corner space. Work 2 dc into each space between dc pairs. Work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] into corner space. Work 2 dc into each space between dc pairs. Work [2 dc, ch 2] into corner space. Sl st into top of the ch 3 of the first color.

Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Fasten off and tie small knots where the two yarn ends meet to prevent the corners from falling apart. You can weave in now, or wait until after the quilt is joined to weave all ends in at once.

Besides just being excited about being able to share this completed project with you, I’m also pretty excited to have finally dipped my toes into the crazy world of videos! (I know, took me long enough.) I figured it was going to be kind of hard to explain the steps by words alone so I thought I’d try to make a video to show the first few rounds of the granny square. It’s my first video, so please be kind. It has no audio. Consider it like the birth of the movie – first comes the silent film. Just think, without any sound, you can:

Run through it as fast as you need to without having to hear my voice sound like a chipmunk.

Not have to listen to random dinky music or strange wooshing background noises.

Listen to me stumble along as I try to crochet and talk at the same time, sort of like writing sentences with both hands at the same time, neither of which I can do. Yet.

Watch this at work without worrying whether you have the sound turned off on your laptop.

The granny squares will look a bit scrunched when you’re finished, so pop them onto a blocking/docking station to stretch them out. It’ll make it easier for you to piece the squares together.

With granny squares like this, the possibilities are pretty endless for creating fun geometric patterns in blankets. You can also check out my 3-color granny square that I used to make a pinwheel design.

My wife just started learning how to crochet.. I immediately showed her this site. Awesome designs.. I didn’t think that I would have any interest at all in it it, but she taught me the basics and I made a bracelet 😀 It relaxed me.. I GET it now! lol