Simple Antenna For Better Shortwave Radio Reception

For those of you who have purchased a portable shortwave radio for either your own interests or for the sake of survival preparedness (gaining information about the disaster, after the disaster), you may be interested in getting the longest range reception as possible. The best way to achieve that is to use an external antenna.

Some portable radios have pretty good built in antennas and ‘front-end’ circuitry that enables good long distance reception (conditions permitting), but adding an external antenna can improve reception dramatically.

Most all portable shortwave radios will have a telescoping antenna as well as one built inside (mainly for AM radio band reception). Some radios (usually the higher priced models) will have an external antenna jack, usually a 3.5mm (1/8″), where you can plug in your own external antenna.

Even simpler, you can simply clip on an external antenna to the telescoping antenna, or wrap bare wire around it.

Although there are varying antenna models, do-it-yourself designs, configurations and formulas to use while calculating exact lengths, etc., when it comes to simply listening to shortwave radio… generally speaking just use a LONG WIRE. It’s simple, and it works quite well!

As some of you know, we have recently moved to another state and we’re currently living in a home rental while on the hunt for our own place that suits our criteria. Once established, I will definitely be building some outdoor antenna configurations (because I enjoy it, and it will help my shortwave radio reception). But in the mean time, while here living in this smallish A-frame, I decided to experiment with a simple long-wire antenna installed inside, up above the rafters. For most homes, you could easily do this in your attic (provided you have a way to get one end of the wire down to wherever you listen to your radio) or use your creativity and string the wire wherever your wife will allow you to – translation… out of sight, out of mind 😉

All I did was string some bare copper wire nearly all the way around the rectangular perimeter of the ceiling trusses. The total length of the wire antenna happens to be 88 feet, and let me tell you that it made a whopping difference – even though the radio that I’ve connected it to is a very good radio to begin with (with very good reception without an external antenna).Sony ICF-SW7600GR

I used solid copper wire instead of regular old jacketed stranded wire, because I felt that the solid copper would make for a better conductor (thus, better reception). Plus I didn’t have to worry about the need for an outer insulation around the wire to protect from shorting against any metal since it was all up in the rafters. I used a 22 gauge thickness similar to this wire, 22AWG Solid Insulated Magnet Wire, because it did not to be very strong to support itself since I was stretching it along wooden trusses (or in your attic along the floor edges).

On each corner of the perimeter, on the corresponding wooden trusses, I fastened a screw into the wood, which I used to wrap the copper wire around a few times as I strung it around so as to stretch it fairly tight so it looked ‘clean’. In fact, from the floor level you can’t even notice the wire, which is 20 feet up!

Since my radio has an antenna jack, I used a Radio Shack male plug (1/8″) and secured one end of the antenna wire to the center (tip) connection. If connecting this way, be sure to tape or isolate the outer (ring) of the plug’s connection tab so that the wire connecting to the tip does not accidentally touch it and short out the circuit. It’s better to use a male plug with a plastic outer screw-on sleeve instead of the metal kind, so that you don’t short out the copper wire to the sleeve. If you are using insulated jacketed wire rather than solid copper wire, it won’t short out – so there will be no concerns here.

Even easier though, is simply connect one end of the long wire to an alligator clip (solder, or use a clip with a screw to fasten the wire to). Then just clip on to the tip of the radio’s telescoping antenna (without pulling out the antenna all the way).

Anyway, the simple message is that for better shortwave radio reception, get yourself a spool of wire and make yourself a long wire antenna. Makes a big difference…

Incidentally, if you happen to be an InfoWars.com reader, and are interested in listening to Alex Jones during the afternoon on shortwave frequency 12,160 kHz (simulcast on WWCR transmitting from Nashville, TN), the perfect theoretical length of a matching full-wave long wire antenna for that frequency would be 81 feet. Again, the overall length is not critical for general listening… I’m just sayin… 😉

Kevin, yes, absolutely, when dealing with reception-only, the wire parameters aren’t terribly important. Most typical insulated wire is stranded, and I suggest to be sure that the individual strands are copper rather than aluminum. Copper has much better conductivity than aluminum. Good luck with your antenna!

Redleg, That’s a good question. When it comes to receiving, I do not believe that wire gauge makes a noticeable difference, except for the physical strength of the wire if you are hanging it between supports, etc. The difference in electrical resistance of 100 feet of copper wire when comparing 22 gauge to 16 gauge is 0.28 ohms. Even when comparing very small diameter 28 gauge with 16 gauge copper, the difference is 0.59 ohms per 100 feet. Unless you are dealing with very long distances, the wire gauge won’t matter much (unless and until you are dealing with current carrying capacity… transmitting power, etc.)

I happen to have a roll of 14AWG solid copper wire, would that work better, the same, or worse than the 22AWG thickness that you linked to in your article? If worse I will get the 22AWG as the link in the article listeda roll for only about $12 including shipping so that isn’t going to break the bank. Hopefully the 14 AWG I have is better though so I don’t have to spend the money. Thanks for your time!

If you are unwilling/unable to spend $$$$ on wire, then look for dead appliances with either electric motors or large power transformers as with care and lots of spare time one can salvage more than all the wire you would need for such a project… Failing that, there is much small-gauge wire salvageable from the deflection yokes of CRT’s… and no shortage of dead NTSC TV’s around…

I finally got a shortwave radio but reception isn’t all that great so it is finally time for me to do this (your antenna project above). I went ahead and bought the smaller wire too so as not to waste my 14 AWG wire.

I read somewhere that the wire lengths need to be balanced, that is equal lengths on both sides from where the wire goes up to the rafters forming a T, is that true? I am a bit fuzzy on the whole thing. I got a big roll (a bit over 500 feet of the 22 AWG) and I want to run it through the whole perimiter of the attic 50′ long. Should I go around the lower perimiter in a square or go up to the center rafter and make a T shape with the feed line going down to the radio?

If I do the square shape which will give me 180 linear feet vs only 50 linear feet in the center rafter T configuration what do I do with the end of the wire that isn’t connected to the radio? Do I attach it to the other end to make a complete loop?

Antenna theory, and experimentation is an art form in my opinion. It is technical yes, but it is fun to experiment with configurations. Here’s the thing… it is very important to consider technical theory and details when you are planning to TRANSMIT. However when you are simply planning to listen and receive on a shortwave radio, you do not need to be concerned about SWR, matching, and all sorts of things related to transmitting.

The best general advice is to use as much wire as you can for a listening-only shortwave receiver. Sure you can get into specially tuned antennas of all sorts of designs, but a long wire works amazingly well.

Having said that, I would focus on wire length. One connection to your radio’s antenna (or antenna jack) to the length of wire. There is a formula to determine the resonance frequency of a given length of wire (meaning that you will receive stations the best at that wire length), but again, don’t sweat it. Just go for length. That’s what she said. (sorry I couldn’t resist that one…)

In your case, 180 feet will be quite enough in my opinion. I am using just under 100 feet and am able to pick up stations all around the world, depending on the shortwave band and the time of day.

Oh, and don’t worry about what to do with the end of the wire… Just leave it – not connected electrically to anything. The only electrical connection is the beginning end of the wire which is clipped on to your radio’s antenna or inserted into the radio’s antenna jack.

Don’t let the wire contact any metal (if it is the non-insulated wire). Try to keep the wire away from any known electrical lines.

Most of the general action is somewhere between the 20 meter band and the 40 meter band regarding shortwave and ham band listening. There is some ham radio action on 80 meters, and even 160 meters, however 20, 30, 40 has most. With my Sony 7600GR, with simply it’s built-in telescopic antenna, I can pick up an incredible amount of stations. Simply adding a long wire helps with the gain. The more the better. You can easily go overboard with antennas designed in one fashion or another, each with their specific benefits such as directionality, gain, etc., but these things matter most for transmitting effectively. If you’ve got a wire in the vicinity of 100 feet, you’re going to pick up most everything…

Maybe I’ll do a future post on various antennas, the formulas involved, and recommended wire lengths for particular bands. It’s all good fun.

Hi,
I Have an antenna mast on each end of my hangar. If I put a cross bar on each one and run the antenna wire (you mentioned 14 awg stranded copper wire) back and forth (the building is only 40 feet long), I can get a total length of about 100feet. Is there a minimun separation distance between the runs of wire(each run being about 40 feet)? Any information will be appreciated.

One length of 40 would be fine. But if your set on
100′ then probably 6-8″ of separation would be fine.
Another antenna is a sloper. Start with a wire 10 to 20 feet above ground. Then Run it diagonally to your radio. 14 or 16 gauge wire is good because of the strength.
A really good antenna would be a loop running the entire perimeter of your hanger either on the roof or near the ceiling. If your hanger is metal it would definitely have to be outside.
There are very few rules with receiving antennas experimenting is the funnest part. I have a 200 foot loop running the perimeter of my property at 6 feet and it gets fantastic results. It runs along the fence and through bushes and shrubs so the insulated type is best. An inexpensive way is using lamp cord from Home Depot.
Good luck. Let me know how it comes out

I have a 30 ft. long insulated wire going from my TECSUN PL-660 radio attached to my metal roof with gator clips and the reception on SW, day or night, any place in the world is absolutly FANTASTIC and have no problem with the radio. I set the radio on DX and EVERY STATION comes in LOUD and CLEAR. This is the best SW radio I have ever had my set up gives me the BEST performance EVER.