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Cruises: Thailand's river of kings

Johnny, my “chief butler”, padded up to my sun lounger unbidden to offer me a pair of binoculars – he had obviously come across plenty of squinting guests in his eight years aboard Anantara Dream.

Training the binoculars on the wooden houses clustered on stilts along the banks of the Chao Phraya river, I asked him: “Surely that can’t be the tide mark from the floods? It’s at least 10ft high.” Johnny nodded gravely. “Yes, ma’am, the water was indeed very high for a long time.”

I had been due to sail with Anantara Cruises along the Chao Phraya to the former capital city of Ayutthaya last October. However, after months of unusually heavy monsoon rainfall, the river burst its banks that month in what Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra described as “the most critical natural disaster in Thai history”. The floods claimed 815 lives and affected 13.6 million people across the country.

While flood waters reached central Bangkok, with the army recruited to pump water from the Grand Palace, the damage was largely contained. Four months on, relatively few visible signs of destruction remained in the city centre and locals seemed keen to put the floods behind them.

But, as I finally started my navigation of the “River of Kings”, sailing north from the bougainvillea-festooned pier of the Anantara Riverside Resort through the high-rise heart of Bangkok and on past the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Grand Palace and Wat Po, the tangled ruins of wooden homes, piles of debris and sandbags languishing on the river banks showed that the scars were still healing.

Nonetheless, the Chao Phraya was busy as ever: brightly painted long-tail boats sped noisily along the river, multicoloured canopies and floral garlands fluttering in the breeze; strings of heavily laden commercial barges lumbered upstream as their empty sisters bobbed in the opposite direction; and water taxis zipped between them, laden with camera-toting visitors.

Captain “Daddy” calmly negotiated this colourful chaos to deliver me to Wat Arun, where I was met by the friendly and informative Eki Chai, my guide for the three-day voyage. Wat Arun is known as the “Temple of Dawn” after the way in which the morning light reflects off its intricate central prang, or reliquary tower, which is encrusted with numerous pieces of coloured porcelain, originally used as ballast by boats sailing from China in the 17th century.

I felt a little smug as Johnny welcomed me back on-board with a cool, lemon grass-infused facecloth and tumbler of iced water, as all the other farangs (foreigners), squeezed into their long-tail boats, cast admiring glances at “my” Anantara Dream.

Although exquisite, with her rounded mahogany belly and snub stern, Anantara Dream still lacked the elegance of the gilded and bejewelled boats housed at our next stop, the Royal Barges Museum. But then, Anantara Dream didn’t suffer from illusions of grandeur when she was built 100 years ago as a rice barge – until her lavish conversion into a boutique two-cabin cruising boat.

Together with his deputy butler Tawny, Johnny created fresh floral displays whose scent wafted through the spacious seating and dining area on the breezy top deck, covered by an arched roof and lined by open windows. The river breeze kept the sundeck cool but, to ensure restful nights, the spacious two-storey cabins (with impressive en-suite bathrooms located below decks) were air-conditioned.

Shortly after passing under the golden suspension cables of the Rama VIII bridge, we left Bangkok’s skyscrapers behind and local commuters began to outnumber visitors in the long-tail boats. Settling into life on-board, I enjoyed the first of chef Jeffrey’s mouth-watering meals: crispy prawns with chilli sauce, succulent shredded chicken and banana-flower salad, fragrant chicken noodle soup and fresh mango served with sticky coconut rice.

Captain Daddy then deposited me for a post-prandial stroll on the island of Koh Kret, inhabited by the Mon people of Burma, famed for their skilled creation of kwan aman – baked, unglazed red clay pottery carved with intricate patterns. In addition to several pottery workshops, a temple and museum, stalls and cafés sold pottery, textiles and traditional street food.

The afternoon was spent on Anantara Dream, passing temples and giant Buddhas, and waving to children playing amid floating carpets of lotus flowers. Having moored for the night by a Mon temple, Johnny and Tawny prepared the deck for candlelit Thai cocktails, canapés and dinner, enjoyed to the sound of carp jumping in the river, crickets chirping and waves lapping the belly of the boat.

The following morning, as we resumed our voyage towards Ayutthaya, Johnny and Tawny taught me the traditional art of folding the petals of lotus flowers. We passed a happy hour in this meditative endeavour, preparing the flowers to offer in prayer at Wat Panancherng, the temple that houses Thailand’s largest ancient image of Buddha, a 668-year-old, golden giant 62ft tall (in the sitting pose) and 46ft wide. With Eki Chai content that I would return in the afterlife more beautiful than in the current one (a bonus of lotus flower-supported prayers), our driver whisked us to Ayutthaya.

Wat Arun stands in the background

Founded in 1350 on an island at the confluence of three rivers, the majestic former Siamese capital, a Unesco World Heritage Site, was one of the world’s largest cities by 1700, home to more than a million inhabitants and more than 400 temples and palaces. However, when the Burmese invaded in 1767, they razed the city, leaving only ruined monasteries, temples, stupas and prangs to hint at its ancient splendour.

One could easily spend days exploring the parklike site. Eki Chai ushered me to some of his favourite spots: Wat Mahathat, where the disembodied head of a Buddha statue hovers hauntingly, caught hundreds of years ago in the roots of a banyan tree; to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, with its relatively well-preserved Khmer-style prangs and chedi-shaped chapels; and to Wat Phra Si Sanphet, known for its forlorn rows of headless Buddhas.

As evening fell, Eki Chai returned me to Anantara Dream – amused by my confusion when we reached the Chao Phraya to discover the boat moored by a small island with no apparent way of getting across. Giggling, he pointed out an ingenious pulley-operated chair lift, manned by a young monk from Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, an unusual Buddhist temple constructed in the style of an English Gothic church in 1878.

Looking up from his book, the monk cranked the lift into action and we glided above the water towards the boat, waved on by Johnny and Tawny on deck. Back on board, Johnny had arranged a surprise: a tiny yet wincingly strong lady had come to massage my tired tourist feet. As she massaged, an electric-blue kingfisher darted from a nearby tree into the river to catch its dinner, undisturbed by the young novice monks zipping across the river after their studies, saffron robes billowing in the dusky evening light.

Rising early next morning, I walked around the peaceful island, marvelling at the juxtaposition of the Gothic, with its ornate pistachio, pink and gilded décor, and the simple shrine next to it – a small golden Buddha glimmering in the morning sunlight, adorned by orchids and lotus flowers. I was apprehensive at the thought of our return to the noise, heat and chaos of Bangkok.

My dread was misplaced – Bangkok was chaotic yet wonderful, particularly with the “culture shock” softened by immersion in the sanctuary of the inimitable Mandarin Oriental hotel.

Over dinner in the Terrace Rim Naam restaurant on the banks of the Chao Phraya, I closed my eyes, listened for the familiar river noises and was soon back on Anantara Dream.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Chao Phraya was once known as the Mae Nam, from 'Mae’ (mother) and 'Nam’ (water)

WHAT TO AVOID

Don’t assume that tuk-tuks in Bangkok are less expensive than taxis – their popularity with visitors has made the former more costly, while also being less safe.

It’s illegal to take Buddha statues out of Thailand, so don’t purchase any in the hope of bringing them home.

Be prepared to queue for at least an hour to get through immigration on arrival in Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport and the same to get through security when leaving the capital.

Don’t misjudge the cost of wine in restaurants: government taxes on wine are high and are not reflected in the prices shown on wine lists but are charged additionally (along with a standard 10 per cent service charge).

Avoid the elephant rides in Ayutthaya – the welfare of the animals is questionable, the ride only lasts about 10 minutes and “drivers” become unpleasant if you don’t tip them handsomely.

GETTING THERE

Tailor-made specialists Chic Locations (020 8944 1973; chiclocations.com) offers a six-day holiday in Thailand from £2,059 per person, assuming two sharing, starting with a three-day Anantara cruise on the Chao Phraya river from Bangkok on a full-board basis, followed by four nights’ b & b in a deluxe room at the Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort, economy flights on Qantas, transfers in Bangkok and a tour in Bangkok of the Grand Palace and Klongs.

While four people need to charter Anantara Dream, its sister boat, the slightly larger Anantara Song, carries eight guests on scheduled voyages. Book the master cabin (Room 1) and even if nobody else books the other cabins, the ship will sail regardless.

The Thai people are extremely respectful of their king and royal family – making negative comments or joking about them will cause offence.

The Anantara Cruise itinerary includes a visit to the Bang Pa-In Summer Palace, which, with its lush gardens dotted with lakes, temples, mansions and pagodas, has been dubbed the “Versailles of Siam”. However, also be sure to wander the local street market – it offers an enticing display of local foods and handicrafts.

When visiting temples, men and women must ensure that their shoulders and legs are covered.

THE BEST HOTELS

Aloft Bangkok £

A newcomer to Bangkok, this is a hip, contemporary hotel that is located downtown in Sukhumvit, walking distance from bars, restaurants and shops, and a free tuk-tuk ride to the nearest Sky Train and subway stations (0066 2207 7000; starwoodhotels.com/alofthotels; doubles from £42 per night).

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa ££

Set in 11 acres of tropical gardens on the Chao Phraya, this property combines the tranquillity of an exotic getaway with the convenience of being a (complimentary) 20-minute boat ride from downtown Bangkok. However, 10 bars and restaurants, including the excellent Market Garden for breakfast, a newly renovated spa and landscaped gardens, make it tempting simply to stay put (2476 0022; bangkok-riverside.anantara.com; doubles from £163).

Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok £££

The original Oriental, built in 1876, was Thailand’s first hotel and quickly built up a loyal celebrity following, including (among many others) Joseph Conrad, Graham Greene and Lauren Bacall. Consistently and deservedly rated among the world’s best hotels and spas, it has an unbeatable heritage, exemplary service, nine restaurants and bars – and plenty of romance (00800 2828 3838; mandarinoriental.com/bangkok; from £180).

THE BEST RESTAURANTS

La Table de Tee £

Currently Bangkok’s hottest ticket, La Table de Tee is the brainchild of innovative young chef Tee Kachonklin, who creates a different Franco-Thai tasting menu each day. Reservations are essential (69/5 Saladaeng Road; 2636 3220).

Brio ££

It might seem odd to eat Italian cuisine in Thailand, but chef Antonio Facchinetti’s passion for food is equalled only by his skill and imagination in preparing it – this is fine Italian dining at its best (Anantara Bangkok Riverside; 2476 0022).