Fox Brothers sponsored the talk, and they supplied cloth for four tailors to make up, showing off four different cutting styles (French/Cifonelli, Florentine/Vestrucci and Neapolitan/Ciardi, alongside Kathryn).

I very rarely have suits in pin- or chalk-stripes, largely because I find the look both too formal and a little anachronistic. I have had one other made ever, by Graham Browne in 2010.

The blue is not navy, but a touch lighter. And the stripe is not white or cream, but almost beige. The overall effect is of something vintage, or at least rather softer than a typical business chalkstripe.

The cut, of course, still makes it rather formal, and that is what we’ll get into now.

The padding in this Kathryn Sargent suit may be substantial, but the other shoulder proportions are fairly moderate.

The sleevehead is narrow, and slightly raised. But it’s hardly dramatic roping – merely a solid stop to the shoulder line.

More distinctive is the height of the buttoning point, which is low at 20¼ inches. Indeed, it’s the lowest of the tailors featured here, and just doesn’t appear so because the jacket itself is long (32⅛ inches).

By comparison, the previous lowest buttoning point was Anderson & Sheppard at 20 inches, but it was almost a whole inch shorter, at 31¼.

The lapel line on the Kathryn Sargent is long, therefore, and this effect is increased by the slimness of the lapel (3¼ inches at the lapel’s point) as well as the angle of the gorge.

The gorge line follows the seam between the lapel and the collar.

On most English suits, this line slopes downwards, and is straight. On most Italians, it is a little flatter and curves a little upwards along its length.

Some might think the downwards slope of the line is less flattering, dragging the eye downwards. Personally I find it makes a bigger difference how high the gorge is on the body.

Either way, it’s interesting to consider the effect created by the relative narrowness, lower height (4¼ inches from the shoulder seam) and angle of the gorge on this suit.

The trousers will please those who favour a more generous, and perhaps in some views more traditional cut.

We don’t normally cover trousers in these Style Breakdown pieces, but given they are also an outlier it’s worth detailing that they have a 16¾ inch circumference at the bottom, and measure 19¾ inches at the knee.

Elsewhere, this jacket has little to no drape, slightly open quarters and a slightly shaped back seam. All pretty moderate, in other words, particularly for an English suit.

The waist suppression is not large, but it is high, which is interesting.

The point at which a tailor decides to suppress (narrow) the waist, and the position of the waist button are not necessarily the same. On a ready-to-wear suit they would be, but with bespoke you have the ability to fit the waist to the customer, and to play around with the buttoning point to change the visual effect.

Here, Kathryn cut that waist fairly close under my ribs, lengthening the impression of the bottom half of the jacket. But as noted, the buttoning point is fairly low.

(That long lower half might be even more noticeable were it not for the inclusion of a ticket pocket, which breaks up the lower half a little more.)

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Simon, not to sound too creepy but I don’t think we’ve ever seen you in a striped suit before!

I like this one, although that gorge line comes across as a bit ’80s. As you say, it’s hard to find the place for a striped suit in a modern wardrobe- since striped jackets or trousers can’t really function in isolation (boating blazers aside) it does make them seem a bit redundant. A pity, as I think the overall effect is very flattering. Maybe they’ll make a comeback in 5 years!

Simon, the cut does have an interesting squarish silhouette to it. However there also seems to be a divot at your right shoulder, which is more pronounced than your left shoulder line. Did you notice it and would you plan to have it resolved?

I really like this suit. If I was going for an English cut she would be the tailor I would visit.

I am not keen on your pocket square though. A chalkstripe suit is a loud enough statement without the need for putting something garish in your pocket. Also I think black brogues would have been a better choice.

Absolutely… these types of posts are just trying to be more comprehensive and analytical on the cut and style side. It would take a post three times as long to cover all aspects
Those other aspects will be covered more in other posts

I really like the overall proportion of this suit and think it looks better on you than any of the recent reviews of commissions from Italian makers. Rather like you Sexton DB, it just looks more natural on you.

I know also that you say you cant comment on fit from a phots, but the pitch on your sleeves is off; they are a touch forward and l can say this with confidence because the problem shows itself in every photo and all angles.

The problem with photos is not that you don’t have different angles. It’s that they’re static. Move your arm a tiny bit, and the wrinkles disappear. It’s why no tailor would fit something just based on photos. They take photos to remind themselves of things theyve seen in person.

Yes, i know all that, but these are both wrong in every single picture, at every single angle. That shows clearly there is a problem. Why do you always try and suggest your readers are wrong when they call something out? After all, if your aim is to help educate readers about bespoke, etc, you should be grateful to receive worthy comments from contributors who might just have a bit of knowledge on the subject.

Thank you. I really don’t mean to be defensive, or say readers are wrong, it’s just that in my experience these observations are not correct. And of course I can see whether they are with the suit in person, and the reader cannot.

I actually think that’s an important part of education and tailoring. Not judging or being too attracted by suits that seem to fit perfectly in images.

I’d be curious to get your thoughts on whether turn-ups favour a wider trouser leg such as this, or whether it adds to the anachronistic feel of the outfit. Appreciate it’s a small detail when the most noticeable features would be the stripes and the low buttoning point on the jacket.

Perhaps I’m a little “old school” ( I am 72) but this is one suit of yours I would dearly love to own. The only change I would make would be perhaps a 1/2″ increase in trouser length so that they sit or break ever so slightly over the shoes.

Of interest, when Katharyn made a jacket for you wife, was the style and cut similar (albeit adjusted to fit a female body, which is significant)? Or does she take a different approach for female jackets?

Different. One of the things Kathryn does very well, actually, is realise the different priorities women have, and the varying styles they might be looking for. Most tailors just make a men’s suit for a woman. Which might look great, but be a little.out of place alongside peers in RTW women’s tailoring

Whereas I agree that ‘no elegant man thinks a black tie is just for funerals,’ I find it a challenge due to people asking me ‘who has died at regular intervals.’ I guess I just move in circles where there is insufficient elegance.

Good to see some longer jackets and the elegant & slim effect they produce.
I noticed that most tailors fail to hide the fact that shoulders are extended. Here again one sees (just below the sleevehead) that the jacket is larger than you.
I am not against wide trousers as long as they echo the fit of the jacket. Here they seem too wide vs the jacket.

Really elegant English cut. I too avoid stripes (and even then really only like chalk stripes on flannel) but it works well in the Fox air cloth here. I have that cloth made up in trousers in the charcoal and the coarse, open weave gives it an interesting matte finish and nice subtle texture. In a world full of patterned, unstructured Italian blends for summer, I actually think this suit is subtly rebellious!

Thanks Toby.
I have just spoken to a tailor and to Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, and they both confirmed that dryness is about the feel of the cloth rather than whether it reflects light or not. Having a matte surface is a bi-product of having a dry ‘handle’ or feel. They used a similar example, saying that two materials could be matte, but one have a much drier handle.
They are also getting a more technical definition, which I will add to this thread.

I was really unsure if I liked this at first; the vaguely rumpled, almost linen look makes it work poorly as a formal business suit, IMO, unless you really work the “boss who doesn’t care” angle. But the more casual action shots do it justice; it evokes the sort of relaxed elegance of Simone Righi in dusky stripes and flannels (https://www.instagram.com/p/BfOWU_wH-kT/). It might look nice without a tie. I do think the jacket is a little long however.

Beautiful classic suit; I love the trousers and the length of the jacket is spot-on. My only reservation would be the low gorge. As you said, there aren’t many opportunities today for men to wear a traditional striped suit, but then again, if enough of us started wearing them anyway…

I like this suit on you. You are tall enough to take it and to my eye, it flatters you a whole lot more than most of the stuff our Italian brethren have been knocking up for you.
Regarding the formality of chalk stipe flannel , ironically one of the most louche looks I ever saw was a guy in a two piece with similar cloth but sporting a vintage blue denim open neck shirt a pair of brown suede Chelsea boots – a killer look.
This cloth is way more versatile than you give it credit to be.

Personally, with the exception of the hottest of days, I quite often wear a vintage denim shirt.
Regarding the look I reference, it is one sported by the more louche flaneurs over the years: Serge Gainsbourg, Ferry, Cohen etc..
It’s a bit of an art. Taking the most formal, sleeping in it, then dressing it down but very cool if you can pull it off.
For summer you could probably adjust it by substituting brown suede loafers for the suede Chelsea boots. Slightly disheveled longish hair also helps but isn’t essential.

I unfortunately did up a striped suit that I’ve never had an occasion to wear. Looks cool though, just too much power-suit like what you’ve got and I’m not exactly a banker. Pinstripe/chalkstripe is a tough call these days. Don’t think you could pull this off in California (Bay Area or LA) either.

Could you possibly provide a link to the tie (is it the silk or wool knit A&S)? Have been looking for a black knit tie. Any major distinctions between brands? Was considering Drake’s or Tom Ford. Thank you as always!

It’s one of your more interesting suits as there are a number of features worthy of enquiry. Firstly I was surprised by the date of construction as it looks slightly anachronistic. It’s a cut that seemed prominent in 2008 – longer, slimmer jacket silhouette wherein the front has slightly longer length than the rear and wider trouser width, particularly in the thigh. The pin-stripe cloth is also a little past prime. I say this as it reminds me of a number of suits I bought (and still have) during this time. However I also get the sense that this suit will have a very long life as though it will sometimes be at the edge of fashion it will always be stylish. Some comments raise the issue of trouser cuffs: this has been debated for decades – the Wogan interview with Mel Brooks (2/84), where Wogan chides Brooks for his out-of-date ‘turnups’ is an example. Across the 20C they fluctuate as a fashion across decades: 30’s, 50’s, 2010+ feature cuffs as a mainstream design element; all reflect times of conservatism vs. liberalism. I do agree with others that your trousers are 1/2 to 1 inch too short. Also the sleeves seem 1/4 to 1/2 inch too short (though this may be preference)? Taking a step away from ‘fashion’ I think the suit is well cut and balanced and the flannel produces a pleasing drape. The differential between waist point and button point is balanced by the longer length if it were shorter I think it might look a little odd. I also agree with your point about the ticket pocket. Re. shirt colour have you tried ivory? I think it a good match to grey and off-navy particularly when worn with flannel though the choice of tie colour might have to alter.

This suit feels like a contradiction in itself – summery cloth vs. excessive structure. But this seems to catalyze further insights.

Those atrociously padded shoulders show how strange an idea it is to stuff handfuls of wadding into a shoulder rather than having it follow the line of the body. In the front and particularly in the back shots there is the unnatural shoulder padding and beneath that an almost grotesque bulge when the sleeve meets the natural line of the arm, which looks constricted and almost laughable. I owned a few suits in such a cut bought in juvenile ignorance and thought it was the incompetence of the cheap MTM maker, which made the shoulders look so ridiculous. Now, realizing it ‘s the same for a top-notch 5.000 GBP bespoke suit I find the essence and idea of the English Cut flawed.

For me, it is a liberation to have discovered Southern Italian tailoring, which gives freedom of motion and follows the form of the body rather than restricting both.

Nice looking suit, if somewhat limited as to its uses, as you say. How has the cloth worked for you? Would you commission something in it instead of similar clothes by other more established tropical/high twist manufacturers?

I really like the colour range and the patterns in the Fox Air, and its dry feel. I’d still probably stick to Crispaire or Drapers 2-ply as my defaults for high twist though. Mostly based on wrinkling less

This is a good looking suit. I think the lower gorge and lower buttoning point (if both are within reason) can be elegant — reminiscent of vintage classic bespoke. I also prefer looser over slimmer trousers, if one has to lean towards one or the other.

It seems to me that to use ‘old fashioned’ as a criticism, as some of this who have submitted posts in relation to this suit have done, is mistaken. Whilst recognizing your point that styles change the correct question to ask is whether something looks good. On the whole, this does. To elevate ‘fashion’ into the principal determinant in forming a judgement has two, connected and potentially serious adverse consequences:

1. It panders to ‘fashion’ makers whose principal, non-sustainable objective is to cause us to buy more ‘stuff’ even when there is lots of life left in what we have got; and
2. It causes ugliness – excessively short jackets, very tight and short trousers, minute shirt collars – to proliferate.

I think it’s fairly balanced as it is (you normally want around halfway across the chest, a little under or a little over). But it could be a touch wider and look good, certainly. I’d be interested to see whether the angle of the gorge would make more of a difference.

Simon, perhaps you could address the matter of gorge height in a bit more detail. I have garments with a gorge height from 3 1/4 to 4 1/4 inches and find them all to be acceptable, with a preference for something in the 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 inch range. This is a important yet subtle point that can have a material impact on the silhouette and appearance of the jacket. I’m 5’ 11” so, not short , but not tall either.

Thanks Scott. Yes, perhaps one for a full post. Personally I think – like the lapel width – the key is moderation. So probably around 3.5 to 4, tweaking depending on your height. At your height I think you could wear any gorge to be honest – it is only important at the extremes

I have a couple of sports coats by Kathryn and as you point out her button point is low, I do not take picture of my own clothes but to me the button position looks good in your pictures.
I can see that a formal pattern on a relatively informal cloth might be difficult to justify to a man with fewer suits than you.
Again showing my age I find nothing old fashioned about those trousers.

Actually I tend to find having your initials on your shirts today is more indicative that you checked the option to have them stitched on, when you ordered them from the on-line retailers…3 for $99, seven day delivery, and a perfect fit guaranteed, I believe…

All is good….except I can’t help but think that having trousers that short will have them hoola – hooping around your ankles as you walk with anything more brisk than a pall – bearers march…Whatever happened to “brushing the top of the heel of you shoe at the back, and a nice, single break at the front”, for length?

Was this suit similar to how she cut when at G&H? It would be very interesting to see how this compares/differs to your recent commission as seen on Davide Taub’s instagram. ie does G&H have a particular house cut for which each head cutter reinterprets, or does the house cut change to the head cutter’s preferred style?

A bit of background…I’m in the fortunate position of having commissioned a number of bespoke suits from the likes of Henry Poole, Richard Anderson, Cifonelli & Huntsman who all like to produce garments in their ‘house style’ which is fine if that’s what you want (and I did) for said commission(s).

As you may know Kathryn does not have a ‘house style’ which leaves clients free to choose their own style with as much or as little input from Kathryn. With this in mind something is bothering me…you mention the intricate details of the suit and how you might prefer them (gorge, suppression at the waist, buttoning point etc.) on your commission.

I am due for the 3rd fitting on a coat commissioned in Kathryn’s house tweed. At the fittings thus far we have discussed and I have been able to choose gorge, suppression of waist, length of coat, number of buttons, buttoning point, width of armholes etc. as I think I know what looks good on me following previous experiences so I find it very odd that with your far more detailed knowledge of bespoke tailoring and vast experience of commissioning bespoke suits you didn’t discuss and choose the same options and others with Kathryn during the 3-4 fittings of your suit.

I also find it inconceivable that Kathryn didn’t offer such options to you given the fact that she obviously knows who you are and that a review will be put up on your website as a reflection of her work.

By the way I think the suit looks great from what I can see on the pictures and agree that a pinstripe may not work for everyone…I can’t personally get on with turn-ups…or monk shoes for that matter…I have tried both!

Keep up the great work, your website is a fantastic resource for all lovers of fine tailoring etc. and I’m looking forward to your new book.

Paul, Is Kathryn amenable to discussing shoulder design? I prefer less shoulder structure then is the case with Simon’s suit, so no rope and less padding. The other english tailors that you mentioned have too much shoulder structure for my taste. Therefore my interest is in Anderson & Shepherd only as far as Savile Row is concerned.

As far I am aware Kathryn is amiable to discussing all aspects of your cost construction.

At my fitting on Friday last week we discussed the final touches and I will be collecting it on 26/06/19 and I’m really looking forward to start wearing it although it won’t be until the Autumn as it’s quite warm now in the UK