As some of you may have gathered from another thread, I recently visited Gav where he tracked down the smell of antifreeze in the car to a slightly leaky radiator. I am booked in for the end of next week to get it fixed with him, so I need to decide what I am actually going to have done and get the bits ordered, hence this thread.

Some background, the car is a fairly standard, non aircon, mildly modified (but nothing excessive) S2. As you may know, I did have HGF a while back, so tend to be concerned out engine temperature, avidly watching the temperature gauge more than the speedo. I want the car to be bomb proof and while the clam in off I think I might as well do the job properly!!

Having looked on elisepart web site, I fancy the following:

Upgraded Aluminium Radiator

Twin SPAL Fans

Fan Stat

So, this means I would have 1 fan running as standard (at 102) with a second that would cut in independently based on the water temperature (I was thinking setting approx 88-90degs). I have a water to oil cooler so my engine temp jumps from 84 straight to about 93 when at a junction. I am not expecting to get to the second fan very often!

I have never had any problems with a standard set up on a 190 a Exige, even around town. I would suggest you just get an alloy radiator. As said above, you could add a switch but the ecu will do it for you.

If the clam is off you can change the towing post, if rusty. If you have not got them you can also fit braided brake hoses.

When i compared the stack temperature with the emerald, the difference is about 5 to 7 deg (stack is lower). I set the fan start temperature at 97deg and the fan stop temperature at 92deg because if set lower (94/95), the fan may kick in while driving on track on a hot track day. If the fan stop temperature is set below 92, the fan will hardly be off (87+5).

Regarding triple pass, it is true; it is preferred for spirited usage (above 5000 rpm for a while, not the short acceleration) although it appears to be the only genuine replacement rad on the Bell & Colvill website.

Under 40mph, the air flow won't be as efficient and the fan kicks in more often in the traffic. Over 60mph, it cools more but not to the point of causing a thermal chock. For example, at stowe, after several lap at 4.5 to 6.0 krpm, the car was running hotter (92 deg real). With the triple pass, by slowing down a bit, the temperature went down quicker. Since I have a oil/water cooler and therefore, more heat to remove, it was an advantage.

Twin fan, several people (inc trophy guys) have found that the twin fan is actually worse. In traffic where there is very little air flow, it will improve cooling however, when driving, it restricts air flow a lot compromising cooling. I was told by a mate who looked after 2 almost identical cars that they had overheating problem with one of the race cars and the only difference was that twin fan; it was fixed when they went back to single fan

So, yes the triple pass is not great for everyday car, but with emerald or temperature overright set at a descent temperature range, it is fine.