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Nice pieces you have there. I'd go get some two-part cement (example) and start toying around with different shapes. The way you have them now isn't very effective IMO. For more ideas I highly recommend this link...

No problem! I'd also turn the lights on about 6-10hrs a day just to get the diatoms out and taken care of now, I don't think you'll need heater now since it's pretty warm in Myrtle Beach, enough to grow bacteria i'm sure.

Depends on the heater and the starting temp. As for the lights, I'd keep them off during cycling. Diatoms are going to come no matter what you do. If you used RO/DI water and do a 20-30% water change (again w/ RO/DI) after the cycle, you'll minimize any algae blooms. Toss the Bio-Wheel too - just run without it. The LR and sand should be enough, but if you want a boost to your biological filtration use SeaChem's Matrix in a small bag inside the filter. The Bio-Wheel is oxygen rich, which aerobic bacteria love, but your real shortage will be the kind of bacteria that doesn't like oxygen, where Matrix comes in.

It will hasten it, but will not cause it on it's own. The wheel is meant as a biological filtration method - and a good one at that. It houses air loving bacteria of the type that turns ammonia into less toxic waste like nitrite and that into even less toxic waste. The wheel is redundant and only promotes the initial bacteria types. The real shortage is with the final stages of waste export. And that includes, but is not limited to, macro algae, coral uptake (yep, they use waste products too), and non-oxygen loving bacteria (where Matrix comes in). This is also one of the main reasons we do water changes - to get rid of accumulating waste products.

It will hasten it, but will not cause it on it's own. The wheel is meant as a biological filtration method - and a good one at that. It houses air loving bacteria of the type that turns ammonia into less toxic waste like nitrite and that into even less toxic waste. The wheel is redundant and only promotes the initial bacteria types. The real shortage is with the final stages of waste export. And that includes, but is not limited to, macro algae, coral uptake (yep, they use waste products too), and non-oxygen loving bacteria (where Matrix comes in). This is also one of the main reasons we do water changes - to get rid of accumulating waste products.

Oh and guys my GF noticed on the LR that we just put into the tank today what looked to be as best I can describe like a set of branches hanging off the rock will try to provide a pic tomorrow but any idea what that could be?

Changing it out, sure, but that would kinda defeat the purpose of having them in the the first place. They're biological filters and you do not require this type of biological filter. You need the kind that is porous and high surface area without ample aeration - eg live rock rubble or something like SeaChem's Matrix.

If it looks like branches of a tree, it may be a type of gorgonian (Google for images). The thing you should be looking, or rather listening for, is a sharp clicking sound

Yea I really don't want a mantis not that they're not cool and interesting just don't want to deal with getting him out, and yea it looked similar to the google images I saw just the one on my rock was brownish in color and small so idk. Are they good or bad to have ?

So the tank has been up and running for about 1 full day now lots of sand covering the bottom pieces of rock what's the best way to go about getting that sand off and what should I be doing now in terms of my cycle ?

It will settle on it's own, but I usually run floss in a filter and a filter sock (in sump) for a day or two. Usually crystal clear in 24-48 hours. If your rock is live, your cycle is already starting as things die off and are broken down by bacteria. You should start testing for ammonia in a day or two. It will go up and gradually go back down to zero. As it falls, start testing for nitrites. It will rise and eventually peak just like ammonia. When it, and ammonia, are at zero you're done and can start thinking about your first animal(s). You can speed things up a little with something like BIO-Spira or Fritz Zyme 9. With these products, you need to test every day due to the speed at which ammonia and nitrites will rise and fall (usually in a few days). The skimmer must be turned off for four days after adding bacteria.

Thanks I don't have a sump yet but got a ten gallon from petco to set one up. There's not a lot of room under the stand so it'll have to stay small. Also when can I start adding a cuc. Dying to get some snails and a shrimp. The rock is live so the natural die off will create the ammonia ? Got my API test kit so I'll start testing in a day or two.