Portillo is the Perfect 10 ski resort just north of Santiago

Portillo is truly spectacular. Superlatives are just not enough. Terrain to drool over, snow to die for, views to kill, and that beautiful pool. Then there’s the funky va-et-vient avalanche proof drag lifts and the four (yes, 4!) included meals. But pictures can’t convey the unique intimate character, nor that you’re-all-part-of-the-family feeling, which extends to staff, guests and owners alike. Hands down, Portillo is a perfect 10 ski resort. Right now if you are quick it’s on sale at 20% off regular rates for the first week of July, or in August get a free deluxe night at Santiago’s Ritz Carlton Hotel and free return transfers – see details below. Feature by Owain Price.

Usually if you don’t get lucky with a dump or two during a week here the sun will come out more often than not and soften the snow as it arcs over from one side to the other, so you just move around in tandem, often nailing perfect corn snow in the process.

Setting, snow, lifts and terrain are of course key parts of the equation.

But if I had to pick one word to sum up everything else that makes Portillo special it’s family.

The Purcell family has been running Portillo for 70 years, and 3 generations of them can be seen skiing around the slopes, or dining with the guests.
Many of the staff are inter-generational too. The Maitre’d has been there for longer than we have been skiing there (since 1989) for example – apparently, and sadly, after 40 years he’s retiring.

Accommodation options at Portillo

As for the guests, something keeps drawing them back whenever time and budgets permit, so before you know it you feel part of the family too, welcomed by and welcoming your old friends among the staff and fellow guests. It feels more like a large club lodge than a hotel, and you feel more like a member of the extended Portillo family then just another paying guest.
Sure, staying in the main hotel has never been cheap, and for 4-5 star prices the rooms are small by modern standards, so nitpickers be warned this is no Deer Valley luxury experience.
But considering all you get – the meals, the convenience, the character – it’s still good value, from $USD 2,350 a week per person in a 2 share room, or less in their lakefront chalets.
If that’s a bit too much the Inca Lodge backpacker option gets you a bunk, cafeteria meals and a lift pass from $USD 164 daily. If you’re on a backpacker budget there’s a funky little staff/locals watering hole across the road as well, where the cervezas are cheap and the mix of Chileans and instructors a lot of fun.
The main hotel pub offers regular entertainment, there’s a disco, and South Americans love to party, so if you’ve got energy left you can too.
New for 2015 the 3 & 4 night mini-weeks (outside peak season) apart from the traditional Sat – Sat ski weeks proved popular. Or with even just one spare day in Santiago do yourself a favour and grab a day trip package (hotel receptions will book these the day before) to at least ski and see Portillo for a few hours, because it’s definitely one for the all time bucket list, a 10/10 to be precise.

Getting to Portillo

Portillo is only 160km north of Santiago, @ 2½ hours in good conditions. Portillo’s airport shuttle twice daily each way Saturdays is the cheapest way to get there
From Australia Qantas direct flights Sydney to Santiago are perfect, while LATAM started direct Melbourne – Santiago flights in October 2017 to complement their existing Sydney – Auckland – Santiago flights, so it’s never been easier to get to.