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zero clearance insert start/finish blade

06-17-2009, 09:29 AM

when making a ZCI for ridgid table saws, is there a consensus about finishing the blade opening cut in the ZCI with the same blade that starts it (usually one blade of a stack dado set) or should the opening cut be started with the single dado blade and finished with whatever 10" blade is uaually in the saw? comments appreciated.

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

when making a ZCI for ridgid table saws, is there a consensus about finishing the blade opening cut in the ZCI with the same blade that starts it (usually one blade of a stack dado set) or should the opening cut be started with the single dado blade and finished with whatever 10" blade is uaually in the saw? comments appreciated.

You should use the blade that you are going to use with that particular insert. If you finish it with the outer blade of your dado set, you'll likely create an opening that is too wide for a regular blade and leave a small gap which is undesirable.

Comment

would that be the same type of kilz that one would use to prime problem walls and ceilings? and regarding the kerf cut in the insert, i understand that it should be made with the blade that will be used with that insert. but how high should the blade be elevated when making the kerf cut? the full height of the blade or should there be inserts for a given blade with differing "height" cuts ( which determines the length of the cut in the insert, assuming that teh insert does not have a built in splitter and that the kerf cut in the insert was made by raising the blade up into the uncut ZCI. e.g., for 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. material)

Comment

One of the primary purposes of a ZCI is to customize the insert to fit a particular blade so yes, finish off cutting the opening with the blade you'll be using with the insert.

Agree with Dave, cpw, and others. It's also helpful to label the ZCIs with the balde they were married up with. Just use a sharpie and mark the blade on the underside (or topside if you're not fussy). This is why so many say to make your own. You need about a half dozen or so to be covered. I have two for my better blades, one at 90° and another at 45°.

"When we build let us think we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work that our descendants will thank us for, and let us think, as we lay stone upon stone, that a time is to come when these stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our fathers did for us."
John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

would that be the same type of kilz that one would use to prime problem walls and ceilings? and regarding the kerf cut in the insert, i understand that it should be made with the blade that will be used with that insert. but how high should the blade be elevated when making the kerf cut? the full height of the blade or should there be inserts for a given blade with differing "height" cuts ( which determines the length of the cut in the insert, assuming that teh insert does not have a built in splitter and that the kerf cut in the insert was made by raising the blade up into the uncut ZCI. e.g., for 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. material)

I wouldn't raise it up until I needed to, but eventually it will get cut at the full height.

Comment

Most 10" saws don't drop a 10" blade low enough to start the kerf, so you typically need to use a 7" or 8" blade to start, but once you've cleared enough kerf depth to accommodate a 10" blade, use the blade that'll be in the saw so you get your "zero clearance"....hopefully it's a real nice blade!

Comment

Agree with Dave, cpw, and others. It's also helpful to label the ZCIs with the balde they were married up with. Just use a sharpie and mark the blade on the underside (or topside if you're not fussy). This is why so many say to make your own. You need about a half dozen or so to be covered. I have two for my better blades, one at 90° and another at 45°.

I'm about to make some ZCIs. I understand I will fasten it into place and raise the blade. But how do you make one for a 45 degree cut??? When you raise the blade you'll wind up making a very wide cut, won't you?

Comment

I'm about to make some ZCIs. I understand I will fasten it into place and raise the blade. But how do you make one for a 45 degree cut??? When you raise the blade you'll wind up making a very wide cut, won't you?

If you only intend to use it for 45s then it will be a skinny cut also.

If you intend to use it for a wide range of angle then it will no longer be a ZCI

I'm about to make some ZCIs. I understand I will fasten it into place and raise the blade. But how do you make one for a 45 degree cut??? When you raise the blade you'll wind up making a very wide cut, won't you?

Make sure the bevel is set to the angle you want (ex: 45 degrees) BEFORE you raise it through the new insert. The blade will follow the angle, giving a ZCI. Trying to move the bevel adjustment with the blade up through the insert will result in a lot of bad things happening!!