The city of Bernini and Fellini continues to dazzle the eye and delight the palate, and its many new cultural treasures only add to its allure.

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In Italy, the balance between work and play slants precipitously toward the latter activity the farther south you travel down the boot. In Milan, working hard incites praise and respect, whereas in Rome, you'd be laughed at for wasting time on such an unpleasant pursuit. Indeed, there is no city in the world that acts less like a transaction-happy metropolis and more like an emerald-water beachfront than Rome, where the days are long, lazy, and irresistibly beautiful.

"Rome puts people in a good mood," says Antonio Monfreda, a set designer and architect who helped create Valentino's 45-year retrospective at Ara Pacis in 2007. "The city never makes you feel stressed out about not working. It's about beauty, enjoyment, and the possibility of being inspired."

The locals' impenetrable good mood and their willingness to blow off the office affects visitors positively: The city is tailor made for off-time indulgence of every sort. The laid-back mood is magnified by the fact that the weather is almost always cooperative, the food is superb, and there are as many outdoor patios for eating and drinking as there are churches.

Romans are by nature some of the warmest and most hospitable of Italians (that is, those not serving gelato near the Pantheon, and therefore not worn down by a constant trample of tourists). At times it seems the city's only real defect is its ancient cobblestone streets that will destroy a stiletto heel before you get to the corner bar. That and, of course, the impossible task of narrowing down 2,500 years' worth of art, architecture, sculpture, and moun­tains of antique booty into the space of a four- or five-day trip.

It is worth attempting to knock off a small tip of the tourism iceberg, but there's no way you can do it all, so balance compulsory stops at the Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum, and the Forum with visits to the Palatine ruins and Villa Adriana, the plush palace that Hadrian called home in the second century. While at Villa Borghese, swing by the Museo Carlo Bilotti (on Viale Fiorello La Guardia) to see the late aristocrat's impeccable collection of 20th-century modern art.

If you feel overwhelmed with your to-do list, take heart: Even the most cultured locals can't manage it all. "I've lived here my whole life and still haven't seen all the churches," says Cecilia Grilli, Ph.D., an art historian who heads the Italian branch of Bonham's auction house.

Grilli, who spends her days uncovering dusty Caravaggios in old palazzos, is amazed by Rome's flurry of contemporary art and architecture, including Renzo Piano's magnificent auditorium, Parco della Musica; Richard Meier's Museo dell'Ara Pacis; and Zaha Ha­did's Maxxi museum, all of which have boosted Rome back into being a modern cultural player. "For a long time, since Mussolini in the 1920s, nothing new was really built in Rome," she says. "These new things are a shock of sorts."

But a happy shock, especially for visitors who want their Anish Kapoor served alongside their Marcus Aurelius. Rome, which for years had no public contemporary art museum, now has two: Maxxi is joined by the MACRO in the Salario neighborhood. The art scene is further enhanced by first-rate galleries such as Ga­gosian, which chose Rome as its first and only Italian location in late 2007, and the estimable Lorcan O'Neill gallery in Trastevere.

This was never a city to skimp on beauty, so new art often is housed or displayed in ancient palaces or similarly eye-popping venues, reminding viewers of just how spoiled they are for artistic choice. Take in the contemporary and Pop Art scenes ensconced in a Renaissance sanctuary at the Chiostro del Bramante, as well as within the small, charming galleries tucked in behind Via del Babuino on Via Margutta, the street where Federico Fellini lived.

Once you have ticked off your requisite site visits, it's time to do what Romans do best: nothing but wander around under the sun, taking in the visual feast. One piece of advice to adhere to as you make your way through the city: Being in a hurry or demanding service will incite derision (and pity) on the part of any Roman you come in contact with. Stroll, linger, savor, and, above all, practice patience. Italians are famous for taking their own sweet time, and the Romans represent the pinnacle of this "piano-piano" approach. That is especially true in the city center, which is often packed with tourists.

While Piazza Navona is a clichéd stop and often a crowd magnet, it is still worth a visit. Then venture around the surrounding smaller streets, like Via dell'Orso for artisan jewelers and Via dei Coronari for antiques dealers. In the old ghetto, you will find great kitchen utensils at Limentani on Via Portico d'Ottavio. Do not miss the unique creations at Lucia Odescalchi in the centuries-old Palazzo Ode­scalchi. And Delfina Delettrez, great-granddaughter of the founders of the Fendi empire, runs her remarkable jewelry store just off the Piazza Navona on Via del Governo Vecchio.

"You still see the typical artisans and the old men weaving straw," Delettrez says of her neighborhood. "In the summertime the fortune tellers, old painters, and portrait artists are out in the street. It's touristy but also fascinating. The piazza is open until 1 a.m. and it is full of locals—it's very typically Italian."

Most typical is the long alfresco graze over an aperitivo. The nearby Campo de'Fiori, which should be visited early (any morning except Sunday) for its fantastic produce and flower market, transforms itself into a lazy drinks haven in the evening. Try a glass of wine at La Vineria or Taverna del Campo.

Though most visitors to Rome remain within the historic center, an informed choice is to venture outside the Aurelian walls for a true taste of the city and its locals. Trastevere and Monti, both ancient parts of Rome, still feel like small towns where everyone knows your name. "I go out without money and come back with my shopping," says Antonio Monfreda of his Trastevere neighborhood, which is populated by many artists and international expats. "I'll pay whenever." On Sundays, Tras­tevere plays host to the Porta Portese flea market, which offers a decent antiques section—though the city's best vintage clothing and furniture market is at Borghetto Flaminio, just north of Piazza del Popolo.

Monti, a five-minute walk from the Colosseum, has blossomed into a Parisian Marais-like cluster of artisans, bottegas, and small shops. Here you'll find old men restoring antique furniture next door to niche fashion boutiques and jewelry stores. Wander along Via Urbana and Via Serpenti for small design and vintage shops, stopping for a bite at one of the charming organic eateries such as Urbana 47. Best of all, both of these neighborhoods are nearly tourist-crush free, which means that you will come face to face with the warmth and openness common to true Romans.

San Lorenzo, across the Termini railway tracks, has always been considered the most bohemian of Rome's neighborhoods. But a new breed of up-and-coming areas is developing into something worth discovering. Pigneto, a district known as much for its ancient aqueducts as its seasoned ladies of the night, is now home to some of the city's young creative types. A good time to explore the pedestrian-only Via Pigneto is in the evening, giving you the chance to eat at the delightful Primo al Pigneto.

"Pigneto is full of artists, and new clubs are opening all the time," says Delettrez. "It's the alternative side of Rome. It's tied to cinema and young directors. We always go to Necci on Via Fanfulla da Lodi, which is very cute for lunch or an apertivo."

Another offbeat but increasingly interesting area to wander around is the still-gritty Testaccio, south of the city center. Visit the Fondazione Giuliani, a contemporary art foundation on Via Gustavo Bianchi, which puts on three exhibitions a year, as well as MACRO's second outpost in a former slaughterhouse on Piazza Orazio Giustiniani. If you're feeling adventurous, sample one of the unusual ice creams (gorgonzola and pear, chocolate with tobacco) at Gelateria Fatamorgana.

It's safe to say, however, that the usual choices in Rome can be just as satisfying as the unexpected. Nothing beats a civilized lunch with a view of the city from the top of the Spanish steps at Caffè Ciampini, or a spin through the Fendi boutique, which boasts the best selection of the brand's hard-to-come-by shoes and ready-to-wear. When you need a pick-me-up, a thick espresso is a simple yet perfect pleasure at Sant'Eustachio or in the more touristy Antico Caffè Greco.

And Rome's most basic, homegrown pasta dish is also its best: Grab a plate of cacio e pepe pasta for 7 euros at any small hole-in-the-wall. With such a satisfying mouthful, you will begin to realize for yourself why the Romans take so long to eat their lunch.

Go for a night ride. Rome's most touristy destinations, like the Spanish Steps, empty out after dark, when the city's monuments are dramatically lit.Venture out. Many neighborhoods outside the city's center are quickly gaining a cool reputation and offer a look at authentic Rome. Get lost in the districts of Monti, Testaccio, and Pigneto.

WHAT TO SEE

Campo de'Fiori, Piazza Campo de'Fiori: Ogle the exquisite vegetable varieties at this age-old outdoor market. Get there early to avoid the crush. Hours are 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., except Sunday.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere, Via degli Ausoni 7, 06-45422960; pastificiocerere.com: A converted industrial building serves as a gallery and artists' studios in the San Lorenzo district. Also check out the excellent adjoining restaurant, Pastificio San Lorenzo (Via Tiburtina 196, 06-97273519).

Maxxi, Via Guido Reni 4, 06-39-967350; fondazionemaxxi.it: Go to the National Museum of XXI Century Arts as much to marvel at Zaha Hadid's brilliant architecture as to enjoy the contemporary art within.

Hotel Locarno, Via della Penna 22, 06-3610841; hotellocarno.com: No longer the well-kept secret it used to be, but still a favorite for its intimate, old-world charm—and great for an aperitivo.

Residenza Napoleone III, Via Fontanella Borghese 56, 347-733-7098; residenzanapoleone.com: If you want to live (and spend) like a 16th-century prince for a few days, check into the decadent Napoleone Suite.

Rome Luxury Suites, romeluxurysuites.com: With three well-appointed central locations, this minichain is ideal for low-maintenance visitors. No restaurant or bar, but the sheets are Frette, the receptionists helpful, and the Wi-Fi complimentary.

Babette, Via Margutta 1/D-3, 06-3211559, babetteristorante.it: Great anytime, but especially at lunch when the buffet is packed with local specialties like sautéed chicory and velvety eggplant parmigiana. Best of all, the service is friendly.

Caffè Ciampini, Piazza Trinita dei Monti, 06-6785678; caffeciampini.com: A terraced refuge from the madness of the Spanish Steps with great salads and sandwiches.

Ottavio, Via di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 9, 06-7028595; ottavio.it: The chic setting attracts creative types, but the exceptional fish (both raw and in pasta dishes) and excellent service make it worthwhile for any visitor.

La Pergola, Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, 06-35092152; lapergola.it: If you want to spend your week's food budget all at one meal, this three-Michelin-star restaurant offers Rome's best high-end gourmet experience, plus a sweeping view of the city. Put on your high heels.

Osteria La Gensola, Piazza della Gensola 15, 06-5816312; osterialagensola.it: Traditional in every way, from the decor to the spry owner who also serves as waiter. The fish dishes are delicious.

Taverna Trilussa, Via del Politeama 23, 06-5818918: The (sometimes prickly) waiters serve up some of the best pasta in Rome in big copper pans—but everything on the menu is winning.

Urbana 47, Via Urbana 47, 06-47884006; urbana47.it: Come at lunch for great organic, locally grown food, or try an aperitivo late in the day. Everything in the café is for sale, from vintage leather club chairs to 1950s steel tables.

Flanella Grigia, Piazza Pitagora 8, 06-6873793; flanellagrigia.com: This is where Rome's sharpest-looking men go for their perfectly tailored jackets and handmade shirts. No appointment is necessary for made-to-measure suits—and they ship.

Re(f)use, Via Fontanella Borghese 40, 06-681-36-975; carminacampus.org: Ilaria Venturini Fendi's striking collection of handbags made from recycled materials decorates this creative space; intriguing jewelry and furniture designed by local artists are also for sale.