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Ok so I have a 3000 psi Pure Energy pre-set at 800-850 output I believe? My gun was shooting 260 last I played, which was field speed for rec play. So I donít think itís the velocity. On the other hand if it came with the right shims I could prolly use one .005 shim with the right results. I did read a lot about ULT shims versus Level-X shims, but I didnít know the size difference. I guess Iíll have to try to find someone who will trade/sell/give me one, so I can at least try it? Thanks for the info MANN at least I have an idea of whatís wrong?

Has anyone had a problem with the ULT where the pin becomes stuck or bent inside the housing? I've treid it on two different guns, the x valve(which is now out of commission, because it decided to leak when I wanted to try co2 on it, resulting in everything freezing throughly) and the classic valve. In the x valve, It seemed like there was no back pressure on the trigger, I had to actually move the sear to lock the bolt. There was no resistance from the on/off...and if the bolt came foward, it leaked like crazy..(which I thought it shouldn't do, because the dump chamber is supposed to be sealed, right) Then I tried it in the minimag, and still got nothing. NO matter how I played with the velocity, level ten, it just wouldn't work. And I can't really test to see if it's the x valve or if it's the ult..Any suggestions, before I drop $25 for a o ring kit or $20 for a stock on/off..?
Thanks..

Has anyone had a problem with the ULT where the pin becomes stuck or bent inside the housing? I've treid it on two different guns, the x valve(which is now out of commission, because it decided to leak when I wanted to try co2 on it, resulting in everything freezing throughly) and the classic valve. In the x valve, It seemed like there was no back pressure on the trigger, I had to actually move the sear to lock the bolt. There was no resistance from the on/off...and if the bolt came foward, it leaked like crazy..(which I thought it shouldn't do, because the dump chamber is supposed to be sealed, right) Then I tried it in the minimag, and still got nothing. NO matter how I played with the velocity, level ten, it just wouldn't work. And I can't really test to see if it's the x valve or if it's the ult..Any suggestions, before I drop $25 for a o ring kit or $20 for a stock on/off..?
Thanks..

Nick,

I hate to be the one to point out the obvious, but AGD has vehemently stated NEVER to use C02 with the xvalve. You'll find on page 2 of the manual the warning about using C02.

So today i installed the ULT upgrade and i obviously started with the 2 shims. it worked ok but i wanted to see if i added or subtracted any shims if it would work better. first i took one shim out and whenever i fired the bolt would take some time to recharge. so i put 2 more back in so now im at 3 shims...i fired and i noticed i was getting some bounce but whenever i fired fast the bolt wouldnt recharge for a sec. after a string of shots. So i kept adding and adding more shims until i was at 6 since it seemed to be helping somewhat. but all it did was give the trigger more bounce, but the ROF is still real low since the bolt doesnt seem to recharge fast enough. So i have no idea what to do now and have no idea if i did something wrong. But here's my setup:

RT ULE, Intelliframe w/ viperblade trigger, ULT mod, X-valve, LVL 10

oh and all this was done dry-firing except for the time i used 2 shims.

So today i installed the ULT upgrade and i obviously started with the 2 shims. it worked ok but i wanted to see if i added or subtracted any shims if it would work better. first i took one shim out and whenever i fired the bolt would take some time to recharge. so i put 2 more back in so now im at 3 shims...i fired and i noticed i was getting some bounce but whenever i fired fast the bolt wouldnt recharge for a sec. after a string of shots. So i kept adding and adding more shims until i was at 6 since it seemed to be helping somewhat. but all it did was give the trigger more bounce, but the ROF is still real low since the bolt doesnt seem to recharge fast enough. So i have no idea what to do now and have no idea if i did something wrong. But here's my setup:

RT ULE, Intelliframe w/ viperblade trigger, ULT mod, X-valve, LVL 10

oh and all this was done dry-firing except for the time i used 2 shims.

Try increasing your input pressure if you can. If you can't make sure your tank is full.
Has to be a high output tank....at least 800psi...more if possible

out of control shooting

ok i gassed the gun up today and pulled the trigger and it goes crazy shooting full auto i had 3 shims in it and took one out and it is still going full auto and i do it again and again full auto so i was wondering does this have anything to do with the ult or the lvl 10 and if you could please tell me how to fix this that would be great.

did i get had?

i just got a new xvalve and a ule trigger straight from agd when i put everything together my gun wouldn't shoot so did the standard adjustments and got it to fire about 10-20 times before it will just quit. i put the standard on off back in and the gun works fine its gotta be the ule. so i did a litte reading and it says if the gun won't fire add a shim. and if the gun runs away take a shim out. so my gun wasn't fireing i added the only extra shim they gave me. only to discover i had put a seventh sim on. meening all six shims came on the ule strait from agd? is that correct? is that how they come? anyway i used all my air so i gotta wait till tomarrow before i try it again. any advice from you guys would be super appreciated. i realy wana get my gun rolein. hopefuly friday will be the first time i go play in about 8 years. i know the mag is willin but the ule trig might not make the trip

i just got a new xvalve and a ule trigger straight from agd when i put everything together my gun wouldn't shoot so did the standard adjustments and got it to fire about 10-20 times before it will just quit. i put the standard on off back in and the gun works fine its gotta be the ule. so i did a litte reading and it says if the gun won't fire add a shim. and if the gun runs away take a shim out. so my gun wasn't fireing i added the only extra shim they gave me. only to discover i had put a seventh sim on. meening all six shims came on the ule strait from agd? is that correct? is that how they come? anyway i used all my air so i gotta wait till tomarrow before i try it again. any advice from you guys would be super appreciated. i realy wana get my gun rolein. hopefuly friday will be the first time i go play in about 8 years. i know the mag is willin but the ule trig might not make the trip

i think you need to take some shims out:
i was recently playing around with my ULE, adding shims one at a time... 6 shims gives me a good response on the trigger without going full auto, but when i added the 7th shim, my Tac did the same exact thing you are describing - it wouldn't fire.

New ULT causing saftey no to work

Sorry, but I didnít get a chance to look around to see if the solution to this problem has already been posted. Here it isÖ

I just got a new ULT and installed it. With some minor adjustments it now shoots great, but when I put the safety on I can still fire the gun. Before I installed the ULT the saftey was working fine. Why is this now happening and what do I do?

e-mag valve with ult

I just got e-mag valve with lvl10/ult.

I've installed the valve, but I can't sweet spot the trigger. I've checked the trigger pin when aired up and there is that cc space between the trigger and pin. I do have a regular single trigger frame. Are there any other things I could try without going to a double trigger frame?

I have had the ULT installed since I got my Mag and it's been great for several years. Recently I have started having some bolt stick/not resetting/dead trigger, and some light leaking. The leaking will ocurre if I lightly pull the trigger and sometimes if I do a full trigger pull and hold it. I replaced the o-rings on the ULT, lubed it good, and tried some different shim combos and I am still getting the light leak. It is definatly the ULT because with the standard on/off in there are no issues, not ever the bolt stick issues. Any thoughts/recomendations would be helpful.

No reason to close the thread. It's been building energy for the past six years, not going stale.

Just in case that gets taken as a non-constructive comment, here's a link to a copy of this thread...with pictures!http://www.automagsuk.com/classicandrt.html
If somebody with abilities to edit the original post wants to update links, they now can.

This thread and the info in it is great for guys wondering if the valve in their hands will accept the ULT and what to do with it. I'm still getting to that stage. Can anybody tell from this picture if this is valve will accept ULT? I know aluminum RT Pros will accept them, but I'm too new to the mag to know if this is one.

Okay, I'm really confused as to what I've been doing wrong with this gun. Maybe someone can point out something I'm missing. Pretty much the ULT is the last thing I can't get working.

Tac one Xvalve with SHP reg at 1100psi.

Issue:
-With ULT, no matter what shim combination I'll eventually get bolt stick, I started with none and eventually I ran out of spacers, even when I used powertube spacers to do the 1 tube spacer = 2 ULT spacers.
-With stock RT on/off. The gun barely RT's at all even with the 1100 psi output on the tank.

-I've checked Trigger rod gap.
-Gun doesn't leak, it just behaves more or less like a classic valve with very minimal RT.

Okay, I'm really confused as to what I've been doing wrong with this gun. Maybe someone can point out something I'm missing. Pretty much the ULT is the last thing I can't get working.

Tac one Xvalve with SHP reg at 1100psi.

Issue:
-With ULT, no matter what shim combination I'll eventually get bolt stick, I started with none and eventually I ran out of spacers, even when I used powertube spacers to do the 1 tube spacer = 2 ULT spacers.
-With stock RT on/off. The gun barely RT's at all even with the 1100 psi output on the tank.

-I've checked Trigger rod gap.
-Gun doesn't leak, it just behaves more or less like a classic valve with very minimal RT.

Tank works on my retro valve so it's not a the tank reg.

any clues or pointers? It is the ULT or something with the powertube?

If all combinations of ULT shims eventually result in bolt stick, then your problem is probably level 10 related even though it seems to be working fine. Make sure you have all shims removed from the powertube when you tune the level 10. Otherwise you could end up using a carrier that is too tight. That would slow down the bolt speed which inhibits the RT effect and induces random bolt stick issues.