So today I tasted with Leslie Vanderdonk, a native of Antwerp, who works both here and at Lamblin – it seemed a fair exchange – sorry Fabien! Except that it wasn’t possible to taste from tank with Leslie today – I should come back in March she said.

Fabien is already sold out of the 2013 vintage and taking orders for 14s – you can see that the bottle stocks are very low. There is still a chunk of wine placed with the négoce here, but Leslie notes that Fabien is being very careful about what he labels himself so is increasing his own volume only very slowly. Bottling will be in March, so only two 2013s were available for tasting – those that were bottled in September.

Yields were relatively low in 2013 and also less than hoped for in 2014 – for instance the 1er Cru ‘Homme Mort’ won’t be produced in 2014, only the regular cuvée of Fourchaume.

2012 Chablis 1er Montmains
Tight-ish aromas, yet really super, with a weight of something below. Round but incisive, growing intensity – really intense, and holding that fine line of flavor in the finish.

2012 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Slowly opens in the glass, with a ripe fruit undertow and fine higher tones. A little bigger, rounder and less direct than Montmains. Slowly, slowly lingering. Excellent if certainly more contemplative than the Montmains…