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JJW8230DDW Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for JJW8230DDW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

F1-1 code

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Oven door wouldn't close completely

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Anyone got any ideas?

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

Oven Door wouldn't fully close and light stayed on.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Oven Door hinge is broken

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

defective oven sensor

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Oven door hinges broken

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

Code said we needed a sensor

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

oven door gasket was no longer flexible, but stiff

pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....