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Please call a local plumber before you ask us: Do you insulate the lines? What kind of insulation? Dilectrics or not? What should I do with the T&P? Expansion tank? Where to set the temp? Should I install a thermostatic valve?

Please call a local plumber before you ask us: Do you insulate the lines? What kind of insulation? Dilectrics or not? What should I do with the T&P? Expansion tank? Where to set the temp? Should I install a thermostatic valve?

Call plumber.

Or at least his building dept, since they have final say what is a go/no go.

Usually, the person that decides whether the question has been answered is the person asking the question. You never addressed it. I appreciate your time though. Maybe I came to the wrong forum. Can someone direct me to a forum where a person that is not a plumber can ask questions? I think I'm being misunderstood. People are giving me a hard time about the pan questions, but I want to know what professionals would do. Codes are usually the bare minimum. I know I could get away with no pan and running even a braided connection. That isn't the best way though. I'm not looking to just make it work, if you follow what I'm saying.

Comment

Either way is totally acceptable if code allows both methods. One way isn't necessarily better than the other but the braided hose method will make for an easier replacement when the heater fails and needs replacing. Cost wise, hard tubing the installation will probably be the cheaper of the two methods.

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~~Don't worry about old age; it doesn't last that long.

Comment

Dielectric unions or nipples are a must by code
Wether or not to hard pipe it is up to you, but there's a fairly high failure rate on the flex connectors.
Expansion tank is required by code
Full port, full open valve on the cold water inlet is required by code.
Temperature should be set between 140 and 160 to kill legionella bacteria, and so you do need a tempering valve, code also.

Can someone direct me to a forum where a person that is not a plumber can ask questions?

terrylove.com Be careful going to this site. Use at own risk. Let's just say that a few know what they're talking about and the majority regurgitate the information but it comes out wrong. Best of luck

terrylove.com Be careful going to this site. Use at own risk. Let's just say that a few know what they're talking about and the majority regurgitate the information but it comes out wrong. Best of luck

on that note a lot of other forums I have noticed seemed to have hacks and wannabes, or diyers just banning together to try to solve a problem. People really dont get the right advice. I have noticed that we have tons of talent and experience on here and i have no problem helping a diyer with many things, a water heater though? comeon these things can be very dangerous. and the idea of sending them to terry loves site is a scary one in deed. Some people really put us in a moral dilema, should we tell them how to do it right, to hire a plumber, or direct them to seek advice from <gasp> Home Depot! The reason you should hire a plumber is we cant see what your specifics are! I dont care how many pictures you post there are still gaps. How can i fix my leaky faucet? Ok Ill help you out, Is your toilet running? Sure ill help there! Can i install my own pedestal basin sure ill help? Can you tell me how to install a bomb next to my childrens bedroom? Ummmmmm i really dont think so! Do yourself a favor and google water heater explosions! THEN tell me that you dont want to hire a plumber! If that doesnt convince you I give up!

Is it better to hard pipe a water heater or use one of those copper flex hoses? Is there a minimum height the nipple has to be before connecting a flex hose? It already has a nipple with heat trap.

I like hard Piped lines vs the flexable lines as they are more solid and wont be as weak . I would agree with most of the advice you are getting on the forum especially when dealing with water heaters . they should only be installed by licensed plumber. Thermal expansion tanks are a must. Im not sure about the temperature setting in Ohio we can not exceed 140 degrees so you will want to find out what is code in your area. But if I was you I would definately get someone who knows what they are doing for this paticular job.

Dielectric unions or nipples are a must by code
Wether or not to hard pipe it is up to you, but there's a fairly high failure rate on the flex connectors.Expansion tank is required by code
Full port, full open valve on the cold water inlet is required by code.
Temperature should be set between 140 and 160 to kill legionella bacteria, and so you do need a tempering valve, code also.