Awesome Thanks for the response Tommy. I would have thought the rear would drop more without the bar. Maybe the front still wasn't high enough for it to completely droop unless the shocks were limited. Whats length shocks are you running? I will most likely relocat the shock mounts for optimum travel using a 12-14" travel shock, depending on test measurments. Unfortunatly there isn't much room in the rear to run the shock in a forward postions which would give you more travel out of a smaller length shock.

I think the shocks were/are the limiting factor in my suspension travel. They are off-the-shelf Rancho shocks for a 4.5" lifted TJ. Not sure what the overall lengths are. I'm also planning on modifying the shock mounts eventually, but haven't really felt the need yet since the suspension works so well as-is.

I usually fab adjustable mounts for limit straps so to stop the shock from extending about .5in before full extension. This way the shock won't bust, especially when using higher end shocks. The limit straps will stretch after time and when wet but not much. A 1/2 threaded bar inside a welded piece of DOM tubing to the frame with a tab welded to the threaded bar will allow you to adjust the limit strap.

Thanks for the info Tommy. Hopefully i will be starting a front end build soon.

I think a well set up suspension will only help you by not requiring the use of the skinny pedal to get up stuff. I'm always paranoid about breaking so I take it pretty easy on my equipment. I always try crawling first, then I'll try bumping, but I know when to call it quits and try another route. Ultimately, I think that's why my axles (mainly the front) have lasted as long as they have. I only recently went to alloys just a couple trips ago. Even Moab was on stock axles.

i like the way you talk,haha... after reading this thread for almost a yr now im gonna go ahead a do my front radius arms in the next few months and use this thread as a refrence on your brakets and lots of other things..thanks tommy

i was gonna do a double triangulated 4 link rear but after seeing many regular 4 links with the uppers trussed and triangulated that seem to work great i think this is what i will do.

question...with just the rear upper triangulated can i still do away with the rear track bar and not feel any rear steer,thanks for the great thread.

i like the way you talk,haha... after reading this thread for almost a yr now im gonna go ahead a do my front radius arms in the next few months and use this thread as a refrence on your brakets and lots of other things..thanks tommy

i was gonna do a double triangulated 4 link rear but after seeing many regular 4 links with the uppers trussed and triangulated that seem to work great i think this is what i will do.

question...with just the rear upper triangulated can i still do away with the rear track bar and not feel any rear steer,thanks for the great thread.

Johnny,

I don't think running a track bar in the rear with a semi-triangulated 4-link would be a good idea. I think it would bind. I'd opt for a semi-triangulated 4-link or a parallel 4 link with a track bar. But you see which way I went. Yes, I do still get a little visible rear steer since it's not fully triangulated, but it's never been noticeable off road. And it's definitely never been an issue on the street due to it's limited travel on pavement.

I'd just triangulate the uppers and call it done. Also, keep in mind triangulating the lowers may interfere with the driveshaft or require a very low mounting point. Unless you're running really tall tires, this could seriously impact (pun intended!) your ground clearance. As a frame of reference, it's been two full years of wheelin' on my setup and there's still nothing I would change.

Good luck!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeepinty

Hey Tommy, still planning on hanging a 60 and 14b under there? I am waiting to do my long arm until I do the tons.

I don't think so. For a few reasons... I think I may only want to go as big as 37s and a nicely built D44 front/rear would likely survive forever in my Jeep since I'm not a "skinny pedal wheeler". Don't get me wrong, I'd love a pair of tons under there, but I think a set of 44's will get me where I want to be and with more ground clearance. I would source a Ford front D44 from a '70s model. For the rear I would either step up to a 9" or maybe just build up my stock 44. Not sure yet.

But for now, I'll just leave it as is. Not sure if I mentioned it here yet, but I recently picked up a new money pit. I'm about to build my dream car and it's going to be "calling dibs" on all my extra money and time over the next year or two. No, I don't plan to sell the Jeep, but Jeep mods will be kept on the "cheap & easy" until the car is built.

Here's what I picked up. It's a '30 Ford Model A that I'm building into a vintage style hot rod.

No, it's not getting 35" tires! We were just being goofy mocking it up.

thanks tommy,,ive learned this since lol..but hey,we all learn from somewhere or someone..thanks for your thread,,i had a great weekend also,with my short arms.have a great week bro,johnny9
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back for another question..it looks like your frame mounts are "almost" inline with the frame?
i was looking under mine today mocking up brackets and it seems they will have to be off set to the inside to clear the frame under full stuff..
i see some brackets they sell are like this.just wondering if your arms hit the frame when stuffed,and are they inline with the frame kinda or offset....thanks

I've just completed my front long arm based on what Tommy has done. My brackets offset the arm mount a little inboard. I have a build thread going with exact measurements for everything if you're interested. A couple draw backs if you don't offset is tire interference at full lock, and bushing bind. Just my experiance

back for another question..it looks like your frame mounts are "almost" inline with the frame?
i was looking under mine today mocking up brackets and it seems they will have to be off set to the inside to clear the frame under full stuff..
i see some brackets they sell are like this.just wondering if your arms hit the frame when stuffed,and are they inline with the frame kinda or offset....thanks

Do you mean up front? Here's my left front arm looking back from the front axle.

And another shot.

So basically, I likely did the same thing you did. I put the bushing in the axle end mount and swung the arm up 'til I saw where it would hit the frame. I would've preferred it to be centered, but it's no biggie. For the most part, it's flush on the outside which looks better.

FYI, the rear was pretty much the same, i.e. flush on the outside and inset to the inside of the frame rail.

No issues under full stuff. Here's a pic when I threw it on an RTI ramp to check for clearances. It may look close 'til you realize just how much farther my tire would need to travel upward in order to get the control arm to hit the frame!

FYI, my shocks are my bump and droop limiters. If I ever get back to playing with the suspension on this thing I'll sell my Rancho RS9000's and make some custom mounts to house longer shocks.

Any more questions, feel free to ask. I'll help any way I can....
Tommy