Broken brake adjusting cam Haffy

Hi, I have just snapped the peg off the brake adjusting cam due to heavy handedness. I need to get the cam out and replace it. Fortunately I have some early cams without the 19mm nut welded on. So I need to get out one of each type of cam to swap over. I can't see how to get them off and the manual is not a lot of help. Can anyone advise please?

For those people who look here in the hopes of finding the answer, here it is:-

I have just had a similar problem with Lurch and needed to remove one of the brake cam adjusters. They are a typical Haflinger designer "just because we can" solution.

The cam has a machined lip on the side which has the offset peg on it, so you can not just punch it through from that side. That means you have to do so from the side which has the 19mm nut welded to it on the later versions or the side which has the 8mm square adjuster nut.

The shaft has had 4 spot welds put on the 4 sides of the shaft which stops it falling out. The four spot welds are then machined to chop off 2/3 of the welds to give you the 4 sided nut.

So in order to take the adjuster out, you have to use a hacksaw or an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut down each side of the square nut shape until you get to the surface of the top washer. Once you have done that, you can clean up with a file and take off the two washers - one is a wavy washer which takes up the play which might exist when they put the spot welds on.

Once you have got the washers off, you have drift the adjuster out in the direction of the offset peg (which isn't there any more).

There are new replacements adjusters which you can buy which start out like the early version and come with a nut which you are then supposed to weld on!

Stupid idea in my book, would have been far better to have just drilled a hole through the nut and the shaft in the appropriate place and put a roll pin through to keep the nut in place. You could then just punch the roll pin out and undo the nut and take out the adjuster to lubricate the shaft which will never have been lubricated from manufacturer because you can't get at it, you just have to hope that some oil gets to the right places if you squirt oil on the outside of the adjuster.

After a lot of angle grinding I managed to get both thebroken cam and a very old one off a spare hub I have, this was to be thereplacement adjuster. The replacement adjuster’s squared end was very roundedso I took your advice re a roll pin. I built up the “square” peg with weld, andthen machined it round in my lathe to the required diameter to just fit thehole in the backplate.I then took a 12Mnut, bored the thread out to fit the round adjuster,drilled a 4mm hole through both the nut andthe adjuster to take a roll pin and put it all together, not forgetting thespring washer. So far it seems to be the business and as you say has the added advantageof being easily replaceable.

I'm now sleeving a couple of brake cylinders, all a good distraction from doing up my 1957 Land Rover