The brewmaster at Belgium's Brasserie St.-Feuillien is in San Diego this week to brew his third annual collaboration beer with Green Flash. It's the first time this beer has been made here, but Flash brewmaster Chuck Silva and co-owner Mike Hinkley treated Briol's visit as a homecoming of sorts.

"We are sister breweries," Hinkley said.

He may be right, but at least on the surface these siblings don't have a strong family resemblance.

St.-F was founded in 1873; the Flash in 2002.

St.-F's brewhouse is a charming brick-and-glass landmark in the middle of the picturesque village of Le Roeulx. "Everyone who comes there," Briol said, "thinks it is magic."

The Flash occupies a new warehouse in a Mira Mesa industrial park. The magic here is decidedly high-tech: the brewing process is computerized and the bottling line automated.

But Briol, Silva and Hinkley insist that they share values and are learning from each other.

The Belgians shared the secrets of spice, adding zest and intrigue to the first two collaboration beers, a golden saison brewed in 2010 and '11 at St.-Feuillien and known as Biere de L'Amitie.

The Californians reciprocated with lessons about hops, an ingredient most Belgian brewers use more sparingly than their American counterparts.

The new collaboration, Friendship Brew, will be a dark saison available on draft by mid-May and in bottles by early September. Expect spice, hops from both Old and New Worlds, and malts similar to those found in oatmeal stouts. The anticipated alcohol content is 6 percent, with a noticeable 45 bittering units.

Sounds as though Briol appreciates his sister's hop-happy ways. San Diego's aggressive beers are an acquired taste, he pointed out.

"So you need to drink some beers," he said. "After that, your palate is able to find the quality."