As Ken allready mentioned at my OSA 2 thread i'm working on the Bronco XXIII also, done a lot of things to get it where i stand now.
To gear you guys up, i'll post some vids instead of those boring pictures i always take, if there are questions i still have to post them anyway, this is the easiest way to get where i'm now, enjoy

I'm crawling forward, finished up the rearpart for testing, the frontpart is not yet closed, simply because i still have to reach the steeringrods, have to adjust them to get the right travel for opening both torpedohatches.

Looks really good Manfred! Amazing how you have it splitting apart in any combination, quite and engineering feat. Will you be having to pass any voltage through the SD to anything outside? I need to in the Marlin but not sure how to tackle that just yet. Have a few ideas. I'm working on trimming the boat right now.

I went for the vertical split because there is a weldingline which will hide that just at that point, disadvantage of using this split is, i had to engineer a complete new setting, and modified the SD for my use.
Second option if this would fail was, to make the standard waterline split, for now everything is working great, i can take her apart in less then 5 seconds.
As for some voltage, maybe some nav lights in the future, getting those cables out of the SD is easy, just glue them down on both sides at the right spot, if you use a connector, grease it each time with some vaseline, against positive rotting.

Is that a OTW or a 32 paralell kit?, as for the weight of my entire module, complete with rudder and divingplanes, it weights 79 gram.

DDG 51,

Those pull/pull rods are hollow, if it's easier to build them massive, that can also be done.
Making the vertical split means, you have to get inside your model when something goes wrong, i tried to make everything as low maintenance as possible, when really needed i can take the complete submarine apart by unscrewing everything.

Now it's time to get that scope and snorkel moving, i allready made some progress in making that happen, pictures

First i added some stainless tubes to both the scope and snorkel.

Dryfitting them on the conningtower to see which height will work.

Started up the lathe and made the plunger with O ring, a toppiece to close down the actuator and a bottompiece with the inlet.
Making it slide without much friction took most of the time, i lubricate it with vaseline, this stuff won't give residue inside the actuator.

Soldering up all those loose parts gives this, both items are in the retracted position.

Unfortunally the lenght won't be scale, this is due to the use of the SD which you can take out, so i won't be able to retract them inside the tower, with my dryhull boats i don't have that problem, since all stuff stays inside.