Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter

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Friday, 17 February 2012

Ibanez TS808

The classic. This is the original unmodded version with input and output buffers intact :o) Note, the layout has been done with 2N5088 or 2N3904 transistors in mind and that matches the orientation shown. If you use anything else, check the required orientation for the transistors you use to make sure the pins are C B E from top to bottom.

Slightly more compact version with external switch which will give you stock TS808 clipping, red LEDs for a more aggressive distortion and a centre "diode lift" position which will be louder and cleaner than the other two positions:

(The kit is for the top layout, add a 3 position on/off/on toggle and two red LEDs if you want to build the version with external switch)

Hey man, I love your layouts and they're so simple to put together. However I'm having some problems with this one. To date I've built about 50 pedals, all vero, and I've always managed to debug them on my own. I've triple checked the position of all components, all cuts and see if anything is touching that isn't supposed to touch. I wired the pots, dc jack and in/out jacks directly to the board without the 3pdt/dpdt switch (which should work, I've done it before!)

Do you have any idea what I could look out for ? Would you be willing to have a look at a couple of pictures of the board and see if I'm overseeing anything ?

Yes they'll definitely work, but did you check the orientation? The transistor symbol I use in the layouts is just a generic symbol with the required pins specified because I don't know what people are going to use in it and so I don't think about orientation. But I just checked and my 2N5088s would need turning through 180 degrees, flat side to the right instead of the left.

Yeah cool. I did flip the trannies but that didn't solve the problem. When I turn the amp up I can hear a similar sound to when you have a cable plugged into the amp but nothing on the other end of the cable. That's really weird. I replaced the pots (although the others should've been okay) but I didn't replace the in/out jacks. I might try that to see if there's anything weird going on there.

However, turning the knobs doesn't make any type of sound or change in the humming sound that's produced. I might even try making another of this layout to see if I did anything wrong before. I'm using exactly all the right components.

No this and the TS9 are new layouts and I haven't built them yet, verifying it is your job! :o) I have been over it a few times though, and nothing is jumping out at me as being incorrect. Post those pics so I can have a quick look

I've heard some TS aficionados suggest that you have to use a tantalum in that position but personally I haven't experimented and so couldn't say one way or the other whether there is anything in the suggestion. Maybe it's worth using sockets for that cap and seeing what you think. If you do want to try it, the positive leg will go to Tone 1 and Tone 2 for those 220n caps.

I'm having teeth pulling issues with this, volume on max I get unity with no distortion.. tone has no effect. Bring back the gain and it oscillates badly. I get a very loud pop when activating and deactivating too. All component orientation is correct. The IC used is a RC4558P, Tried several and tried a JRC4580 too with same results.

Microscopic short!! aarrgghhh!! All working perfectly mate and I must say it's a spanking drive.. far better than I remember my TS9 sounding.. not so much of that thin 'mid honk'. This sounds fatter to my ears..squeals when pushing the dirt channel on my Blackstar!

The tone control is VERY subtle though.. but then most tone controls have a sweet spot and this seems like it's just captured that with the entire sweep.

Had the same issues as Vince haha, microscopic short...Anyway, i did that input cap mod with 10nf, 20nf and 57nf. Although i find the difference only subtle in the bass register, should i maybe take even lower then 10 and even higher then 57 for highs and lows?

Try doing the same thing at the high pass filter at IC pin 2. The 47n/4k7 combination starts cutting lows from 720hz, swapping that to a 100n mean the lows below 338hz are being cut, 1u means 33hz down and so will cut very little even on bass.

Not bad. Almost distortiony. I did those i mentioned above. Works surprisingly well with 15V. I used 2x2 1N60Ps in series for clipping. A bit more bass with cap changes and a bit more head with 15V power.

Like always with TS-*s, i don't like the volume pot as it always seems to give out unity at 55-65%. So. I'm swapping it for B taper. This baby is definitely going to get boxed and soon.

No separate boxes to mix up things - too much hazzle :) Not all pedals are meant to be run (nor even could be run) at 15V, so that would take too much remembering. I think it's better to build integrated pump when needed and run all boxes with the same 9V. Positive ground ones get their own type of pumps too :) I only accept different wall warts for tube effects. If it has a tube in it, then we'll go with 12V positive tip. Otherwise, neg tip 9V.

I used your pump from here:http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2010/03/and-few-more.html

With 1N4007s plus addition of one more for polarity protection (and to calm down the 9V input). Measures 15,8V with battery at 9,8V :) I also added LED resistor to the pump board, as 15V and LEDs don't go together too well. Pump board is small enough, so it doesn't bother me even when integrated.

So it's three 1N4007s to keep the voltage down, closer to 15 than 18. Still, it's better to use 25V (or higher) rated caps..

I loved the open headroom of the Klon, so i wanted to know how tubescreamers would sound with higher voltages.. Not as good, but definitely better. I'll get to play this loud tomorrow and A/B it with my Klon clone.. That may get interesting.+m

Something else which would be interesting is to use the charge pump for +/-9V, -9V connecting to the IC pin 4, then you can do away with the VCC/2 voltage divider components because ground will be the half voltage reference. That would give you an 18V swing and possibly more headroom.

Not a bad idea. Seems a bit more laborious to mod the layout that hard :) Plus i'm not sure if all the usual opamps can take that.. I know TL072 can.

I actually got the idea of using a doubler pump as integrated addon from experimenting with Sabro's layout for Music Man Sabre onboard bass preamp. My goal was to use it as subtle bass preamp box with simple passive DI. Kind of like poor man's version of Sans Amp Bass Driver. It lighted up so much brighter with 15V feed instead of nine, so i figured it could work for other IC based circuits too. That experimentation ended with one phrase though - too subtle.

Feel like doing a layout of a Bass Driver? :)

But the simple idea of more audible high frequencies getting amplified by the ICs with a bit higher voltages is just brilliant. Tiny addon board, and that's it. :)+m

Nice mods mirosol! Think i won't bother with that for now, been playing around with the input caps, hate how little bass these have. Although tonights project is getting 2pcs of the Deep Blue Delay togheter. Should fill my night haha.

The 47n is the most likely cause of that, try upping it to 470n or 1u and you'll notice a difference. Or alternatively, leave that cap and swap the 4k7 resistor for a 47K or 100K, the effect will be the same. It doesn't matter how big you make the input cap if that filter pulls all the bass straight back out of it.

A mate of mine made his own using a tiny giant kit from music pcb and a ts808 vero for the pre-amp, both run of a 15v laptop supply. Pity he housed it in a crappy plastic enclosure from maplins, looks like shit but sounds frickin awesome.

Cool, I considered doing something like that...like an amp build with a ts vero in front of it. But the finishing is where I'd lose motivation and it'll end up in biscuit tin or something. I may have to treat myself to one and throw my TS808 in front of it as well

so here's my build of this! changed the 47nf cap for a switch with 2.2nf in center, 20nf and 100nf. sounded really good and tight.ts is the right board, the other is the deep blue delay.https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/inside.jpghttps://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front.jpghttps://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front_2.jpg

Some people swear by tantalums in those positions, some hear no difference. I think there are some subtle audible differences with different cap types but have never thought the difference was night and day and so one wouldn't sound great and the other rubbish. So I'd say just use what you've ordered and don't worry about it.

Well the only differences between them are two resistors in the output buffer and in all honesty the differences will be minimal if anything. You could play a TS9 and TS808 separately and come to the conclusion that the differences are greater, but that will more than likely be because in two completely independent effects, some of the components may have changed and certainly the tolerances of the components will come into play making more audible differences between the 2. If you're making a single effect switchable those differences are likely to be negligible at best because the rest of the components are the same and so you aren't going to get any other differences due to tolerances.

But if you do want to do this, the only differences are as follows:

Q2 emitter resistor is 470R in the TS9 and 100R in the TS808Pulldown resistor at output is 100K in the TS9 and 10K in the TS808.

And that's it, so you could use a 4PDT switch with lug numbering like this:

1---4---7---102---5---8---113---6---9---12

Solder a 100R between lugs 1 and 4Solder a 470R between lugs 3 and 6Connect wires from lugs 2 and 5 to where that resistor goes in the board

Solder a 100K between lugs 7 and 10Solder a 10K between lugs 9 and 12Connect wires from lugs 8 and 11 to where that resistor goes in the board

Thanks, Mark. So you're saying that the real difference if I built the two effects would be due more to variance in the components vs. just the difference those two resistors would make would all else being equal?

Yep. The only differences are two components in a unity gain output buffer. The final cap and resistor to ground do create a high pass filter, but both allow the entire guitar frequency range to pass through so neither will cut any lows. Rather than putting them on a switch why don't you socket those two resistors and just swap and see what you think. I suspect you'll find you can't hear any difference between them and if you do hear some subtle variation, it's likely that you wouldn't waste a 4PDT switch on it.

I may have to give it a go anyways. I ordered 5 4pdt switches off of eBay, and I haven't needed them to date! Unless you have some other clever mods on this or others where the switches would be useful! =)

I built this exact layout and cannot get any sound when the effect is on. True bypass is working, LED turns on, have voltage between the input and output wires connected on the footswitch, voltage to the IC, but I still can't figure out why the effect won't turn on. I went through all the tracks on the stripboard, every thing that needs grounded is. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Well you've got 9.33V on the IC pin 4 which should be grounded and so 0 volts so that is a definite problem. I suspect you've taken the link up to IC pin 4 from the 3rd row from bottom instead of the 4th.

They are listed as non polar in every schematic I have and although I know what I expect to be the correct orientation, there are voltage sources both sides and so I don't want to just guess. The best thing to do is build it up with everything except the 2 x 1u caps, then power the circuit and measure the voltage between both side the cap leads will solder to and ground. Put the negative lead to the side with the lowest voltage.

But also bear in mind that in some circuits it is possible for voltages to change at certain points in the circuit depending on the position of the pots, which could affect which side has the lower voltage. So there is a chance that non polar caps are specified for a reason.

The caps that are traditionally tantalum in a Tubescreamer are the 2 x 220n's.

Got it sorted out, had wrong value smoothing cap, instead of 47p i had put 47n!Lesson learned, never solder after midnight!Now it's fine, bit of anticlimax on it's own, but works great with dirty little secret.

The 20nF capacitor you've got going from the input pin - is that 20nF on the schematic you worked from or did you sub that in? - interested as the TS-808 schematics I have use 47nf. What effect will the difference have?

I'm sure many on here will tell you it doesn't matter what kind of caps you use as long as they're the correct value. I've made a few of these. Some using cheap ceramics an others using poly box etc. Not a shred of difference between them. Although I choose to use poly box purely for reliability etc.

Hi. I tried building this yesterday with the kit from bits box but it's not working for some reason. The LED is switching on and off and I'm getting a signal from my guitar but it's not affected in any way. Twiddling the knobs makes no difference whatsoever, I just get a clean tone no matter what. I followed the first off board wiring diagram off your site and I was meticulous with the circuit board. Any idea what could be wrong? I can send some pictures of all the wiring if that helps. Cheers

This is my first pedal and I'm pretty new to electronics so I'm sure there's something really obvious I haven't done. It's not boxed yet so I'm thinking maybe it could be a grounding issue???Any help would be great.

Hello,i have a problem...first the copy worked well for a good while,then it started to lose volume (when the volume pot was at max it was lower),now if i get it to max volume is somewere lower than my cleen...somebody can hellp me please?

Hello. I've built this and boxed it. I used a 20k pot for tone and Tantalum caps for the 220nF. The reason beeing that most schematics of the TS808 specify that. This is my first pedal build ever! Everything is working well, except for the tone control, apart from somewhat middle positions, i get some noise, like subtle popping/crackling, it gets quite worse in the extreme positions, in full treble it sound pretty damn bad. I think the Pot is ok, i'm going to try and change the IC, but any sugestions are welcome and i would aprecciate it!

Trying my hardest to keep this modless, as a reference for other TS-alikes.Alu knobs taken from an old amp/tuner.Sounds great, and worked first time which is always nice.Thank you for all your work in these layouts : )

ah. From what had been said earlier in the thread I was pretty sure that the Base needed to be at a higher voltage than the Emitter. Well the rail for pin 6 of the IC is only at 0.46V and for whatever reason, the led I have connected won't light, so I'm pretty sure something screwy is going on there (it has a low voltage as well between 0.02V-0.76V) so if there's anything you can think of that might be wrong it would be greatly appreciated.

IC pins 1-3 and 5-7 should be at around vref (4.7V or so). 4 should be exactly 0 and 8 should have your supply voltage. Probe would be my suggestion, after knifing the gaps. Short between strips would explain everything.+m

I know this is old now, but any chance of some help, built this and just can't get it right. No sound at all. Q1 & 2 both c 9.3 b 3.3 e 4.8 ic seems to pin out right. I have double and triple checked for shorts between tracks and scraped it just for the heck of it. Checked resistors and replaced most caps. Still the same. Any help is appreciated.

Ibanez used a JFET and bipolar transistor flip flop setup to bring the bypass buffer in and out of circuit, but it's not something that we would implement in our layouts for a couple of reasons. Firstly because of the low cost 3PDT stomp switches that are now readily available alongside a global fashion of everyone wanting "true bypass". Even people who see the benefit of including a buffer over a true bypass only chain, many people (myself included) would prefer to use a single buffer of my choice, alongside true bypass switching. It can sound great with no "tone suck" causing capacitance, in a simple design which is easy to implement and replace as and when necessary.

But the main reason for me is the number of components in the flip flop switching. It may be OK on a PCB but the sheer number of components make it a big no-no for anyone wanting to get a vero build in a 1590B box. That on its own would take up a lot of the space available and so it would add significantly to the board dimensions.

If someone was intent on doing it, they already have the main audio TS808 circuit here, so they could always add a separate daughterboard to do the flip flop switching with the components shown at the bottom of the linked schematic. I may do this board layout as I think a few people may find it useful to use with a number of the layouts we have here, but with other commitments and especially with Christmas coming up I can't promise when it would be.

I'm having slight issues with my build...I've got everything wired up, and it appears to be fine (minus the LED, I hooked it up the way I'm used to by accident from the madbean offboard wiring...will fix that later).

In bypass mode, it works just fine. Can hear the guitar, with a little bit of noise in the background of it. Engage the pedal, and nothing. No pop, no sound, no nothing. Transistors are in the correct way, and the only substitution I've made was instead of a 20n cap on the left side of the board, I used a 22n, since that was all I had. No solder bridges that I can see. Ideas on where to start?

OK, so I got it mostly working...looks like I had a grounding issue which was solved by an extra washer added on the other side of my audio jacks. Now, the only issue is that the volume only works on the upper half, and the tone has no effect whatsoever.

Any problems people have had are build problems, not layout problems. The top layout has been built thousands of times because it's the same template I've used for other TS based layouts such as the Boiling Point, Dynamic Overdrive etc etc etc.

The second layout is based around the verified Dumbloid layout and so I'm confident it is good, but if you have any concerns, build the top one.

I have absolutely no sound. No buzz or anything. I accidentally moved Drive 3 wire to the one above the 'Drive 2 & 3' (going towards the 9v) and I got a clean tone with volume knob working. Don't know if that will help in debugging?

You've only got 1.66V on pin 8 which should have the full supply voltage on it. You do have 9V on the collector though so we know you are getting the full voltage on the board. So you must either have misplaced the link to pin 8 of the IC, or the solder joint is bad at one or both ends of the link.

hmm checked voltages again. pin 8 is only showing 4.9. the battery is 9v. also notced that drive 3 is doing nothing! if i connect it or not, it doesnt make a difference to the drive sound from what i can hear? sound odd?

Nothing from any other part of the circuit should affect the voltage you're getting on pin 8 other than a build issue such as an unwanted micro bridge to another row of the vero which could be pulling the voltage down or a faulty component.

Gain 3 doesn't make any difference whatsoever. The gain control in this is a simple variable resistor and so only two lugs of the pot are required, 1 and 2. Lug 3 is often linked to 2 but it doesn't make any difference at all whether you do or not in this pedal.

If you do link 2 to 3, if at some point in the future the wiper (lug 2) of the pot fails then the pedal will go into full gain mode as if the control were dimed. If you don't connect 2 to 3 and at some point in the future the wiper fails, then it will go into low gain mode as if fully counter clockwise. In reality the pot will be scratchy and replaced long before it fails so I really don't worry about it. Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don't, it really just depends on whether the original did for me. But I don't care either way.

Just build this with the clipping option mod, great sounding pedal. I didn't have exact values on a few of the components but got pretty close, very happy and would encourage anyone wanting a TS808 to build it!

HeyI just finished building this board and I'm having problems with it. I hope somebody can help me. I have verified that everything is in the right place, made sure that there are no solder bridges (i went over everything with a multimeter and a knife), and measured all the voltages. The only thing i did differently is that i used 1uf electrolytic capacitors (negative facing top) for the build. Right now the bypass works but there is no sound once the circuit is turned on. Can somebody tell me what is going on?voltage:IC:1 = 4.582 = 4.503 = 4.534 = 05 = 4.526 = 4.507 = 4.538 = 9.00

I tried making the whole board again. The voltage readings remain the same but this time when the switch is turned on there is a lot of noise coming from the circuit. Turning the potentiometers down seems to eliminate the noise. I tried playing ignoring the noise, but changes to the clean tone are barely noticable. But other than that the bypass still works, LED works, and the grounding on the jacks look solid. what do you guys think?

the voltages look good to me. and the 1μf i think is ok too.and i trust you with the orientations of transistors and ic too.the thing with debugging for me is that when i have to do it, is always something stupid i did.i can't point you to something cause there are so many small things that only you can find out.

for example, with my first builds, i had 3 at a row times the same problem. i've put in place of "x"-r resistor, a "x"-k one...now that's one of the first things that i look on any layout. if and where there is a resistor some thousand times smaller than the one i could through in...!!!hope you find it out! if not give as some photos

Thanks for the suggetions!I just went over the resistors and everything looks right.I forgot to mention that I am using a 2N3904 transistor, could that be the problem?Could the noise problem be with the potentiometers? the tone knobs are unresponsive, but then again it is hard to hear over all the noise.

2n3904 is ok i think, but you could always use 2x2n3904 or 2x2n5088 just in case. the pots shouldn't be the problem if they are new, tested, and you didn't overheat them in soldering.just check everything again with your multimeter (cold joins, bridges...) and then post some pictures...

take it out of the circuit.put at lag1 one wire from your multimeterthen in lag 2 of the pot put the other wire from your multimeterturn your multimeter at resistor reading at the range of the potentiometers value.so if it's 50k pot you should read at your multimeter from left to right turning, 0k--->50k.if you see something like rising and then falling while you only turn it up, then it's brokennow check it from the other side(lug3 and lag 2) in this case you should see the readings 50k--->0k if you turn the pot again from left to right.hope i helped. my english sucks and i have no time for google translate...!!!good luck

I've built the version without the switch for the caps but I'm having a few issues. I have used a few replacement parts cause I didn't have everything I needed. I used 1n4148 diodes, 2n2222a transistors and a 20k pot for the tone. The circuit works but the tone knob boosts the volume and distortion as I turn it up. With the tone all the way up it whines when your not playing. I'm gonna add a resistor to get the pot to 10k would I just add a 10k resistor between lugs 1 and 3? And mine seems to have more distortion than the original. I've played around with my friends a while ago but I don't remember it being this distorted. And I wanted to know if it's normal for the volume to be lower with the tone knob all the way down and if the volume is supposed to increase at all when you turn it up. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that but I was just wondering I'm about to go over and see if I have made any mistakes and try differant diodes to see if it can sound closer to the orginal I have a few differant ones sitting around but I don't have the same type as the orginal.

it's the tone pot you should look for. it's not a 10k resistor. you should put a 20k between 1 and 3 to get that 10k (log) potentiometer. i think that this causes all of your "problems".i believe that if you turn your tone pot till half of it's way you'll see that you wont get that boost and distortion...

Hello all this is probably anothr stupid q's but here it goes. I built the landgraff Mo'd and it sounds great! On the land the LED's are lighting up when I'm sw Iitched to that mode. I also, built the ts808 with the clipping switch but the LED's dont light up. I am wondering if they are supposed to? Thnx!!!!

Hey, Thinking about building one of these, using the top layout (not the compact one).. Was wondering if there were any cool things I could do with switches? I'm really interested in the clipping switch of the compact version, but not sure whether I can translate that over to the non-compact version? Cheers, Dom

Wow, I can't believe what a difference there is in a 100k lin verses log pot for volume control. I was really disappointing with the max output and the sweep with this thing, until I changed to linear! Simplest mod ever and amazing difference.

Really struggling with mine, built the first layout twice with the same results, bypass is fine but when switched on there's a steady buzzing.knobs seem work tho as they change sound of the buzz when turned.tried a different 3pdt but made no difference. Measurements look good too. Ive added a 1n914 reverse polarity diode before q1 collector, wired from row 1 to row 7 (ground), but positive end to grnd as per the ggg schem. Any ideas? I've been shouting at components all week.

Have you built an Audio Probe? Fantastic tool for debugging! I've been using one since I started and its taught me one thing.....the problem is 99% human error and 1% component failure. It really forces you to look at a circuit one component at a time. Great tool. Or hi res pics if you want others to have a look

I've built a couple of these that worked perfectly. yesterday I tried to build another and I get oscillation from the tone control (I used a 20k lin pot which I've used before). Also, it cleans up the drive at near minimum and near maximum. Any thoughts or help?

This was my second build from the tagboard blog. As I am still relatively new to building (about 10 pedals under my belt) I think this is a pretty good project for someone looking to take a next step from PCB projects. I went with the first diagram and it sounds great either on its own as a main distortion or as an overdrive for something already a little dirty.

Hello ,I built the TS808 and works perfectly, but I have a little problem with clipping.

(... May be normal, I do not know, but I wonder)

When I do the clipping between red LEDs and silicon diodes, there is a huge, huge difference "quantity" volume.silicon diodes and distorted sounds duller (logical ...) but LEDs, the volume goes much, much, much more, in reference to the sound giving the silicon.

therefore, to use live quickly, it is quite impossible, with such tonal difference.

I build the second vero, the "bypass" mode is ok, but the pedal itself doesn't work. no sound except a small "hiss" (high frequency).the led lights up correctly, and the IC measures are ok (same as other posts)

Could be several reasons. But the most important two - What pickups you have in your guitar? Or how hot they are in terms of DC resistance? I'm guessing you have modern humbuckers.

Second, are you sure it's not a feature? I've built tens of Tubescreamers and derivatives and i can confirm that TS design is not a volume booster.

I thought about this a lot when i built my first TS'. I was certain that there was something wrong with my builds as they were all just barely over unity. But then i bought myself a reissue of TS9. The output level was and still is on par with that when compared to my builds. TS is not a loud pedal. It can feel loud if your pickups are with vintage specs - i.e. anything below 8k of DC resistance. Vintage-styled single coils in range of 4-5k are IMO the greatest pickups with a Tubescreamer. It almost feels like a soaring eagle. But once armed with modern high gain pups like Duncan's JB/Custom5/etc... The cold dead hand slaps you on the top of your head and the overall feel of the pedal is just sluggish. I also spent around 5 years hating and trash-talking the TS due to its features of a) not being a booster and b) not sounding good with modern high gain pickups.

Once you fire your build up with low/moderate gain, vintage style pickup in the neck position.. Then you'll know why the otherwise extremely sucky TS is as highly praised and cloned a bazillion times with very little changes.

And back to your original question. I'm fairly certain you are experiencing a feature, not a good feature, but a feature nevertheless.

I don't want to be mistaken as a authority by expressing my experiences and gut feelings, so i recommend that you take two actions. Get an original to compare and try a few different pickup combos. I have a Fender Blacktop strat as stock. This is a great and relatively cheap bench guitar. Two hot (closer to 13-14K in DC resistance) humbuckers that can be coil splitted by default. This means that one guitar has both, 6-7K neck and bridge single coils side by side with hot humbuckers. Many circuits just sound way better with lower output pups.

Either way. I'll also bet that your build is louder than a stock Boss DS-1.+m

It was the output-wire soldered a row too low... Well, at least an easy fix. Now works as normal. But what explains that behavior that the output level got normal anyway when I put another pedal after this (when the output wire was soldered to wrong row)?

DC voltage. Output wire at one row below means that you have taken your output straight from output buffer transistor's emitter. Where there oughta be some DC voltage. When this is the output, there is DC in your signal which messes the sound and amp behaviour up. Once you take another pedal after the wrong output, other pedal's input cap also acts as output cap for the wrong output - cancelling the issue.+m

Hi,i just checked your vero, and saw it was based on the TS's schematic with the low pass filter of the gain stage and the cold lug of the vol pot connected to the 4,5V bias voltage.On few schematics these connections are done with the ground. Do you know what difference does it make? Will it change the sound?CheersFabien

hey bud, that goes to a wire which goes to the positive lead of your LED, which will light up when you press the 3PDT switch that turns the pedal on. Don't forget to consult this for more help http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

That doesn't affect the switching. It's just that you don't need to take LED's resistor outboard. You'll take LED+ connection from board to your indicator LED anode and cathode goes to you 3PDT stomp switch as seen in the link Charles just posted.+m

Also, i'm fairly certain you have an error in your build since it didn't work right with or without the bypass switch. Knife the strip gaps, triple check component placing and if you still get nothing - measure the IC pin voltages. Those should be about 4,5V for pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7. Your supply voltage (around 9V) for pin 8 and exactly 0 for pin 4. If all those are within 20% margin, the circuit should be fine.+m

Yes. If it works without the switch and not yet in a box, then it'll be a lot safer to box it up and add a switch. If it was working but doesn't work after switch and boxing, then you'll know the issue is with the switch and the box.+m

Hi,i just checked your vero, and saw it was based on the TS's schematic with the low pass filter of the gain stage and the cold lug of the vol pot connected to the 4,5V bias voltage.On few schematics these connections are done with the ground. Do you know what difference does it make? Will it change the sound?

Guess I deserved that ;) I'm wondering if I need to drop the 51k resistor a little to help with the drive pot as it makes little difference to the amount of distortion. Any thoughts on how low I should go to try and get a clean sound? Would it maybe make more of a difference removing it altogether and upping the pot to 1000k?

I am having a bit of trouble with the ts808. When it is first turned on it will work fine for about a minute then I get a loud humming and only a faint crackling distorted sound (pissed off bee kind of sound lol). I can remove the power for a few minutes and it will return to normal again only for a short time.

I've checked over the solder joints and checked for a short somewhere but I have yet to find anything wrong. The 9v adapter I am using is the same one I use for other pedals without problems, have tried a few others just to be sure but with the same results.

The Marshall 3005 Lead 12 was a mini-stack with a 12 watt solid state head made in England between 1988 and 1991. People claim it's a gr...

Note

Not all these layouts are verified and some are put together from unverified schematics. So if you have good luck, or bad luck for that matter, then please let me know by dropping a comment in the topic. Thanks.

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