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Topic Review (Newest First)

09-30-2013 04:28 PM

1971BB427

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davect06607

There is fuel from venturis with throttle. Haven't checked the secondaries ones yet though, but primary, yes.

I have acc. pump in middle hole (normal position) still, does the accelerator pump have anything to do with the secondaries?
I thought it was mainly for the primaries.

I'm not big on Edelbrock carbs, but pretty sure they don't have secondary accelerator pumps. Closer to the pivot point gives larger shot; farther smaller shot of gas.

09-30-2013 04:26 PM

1971BB427

Quote:

Originally Posted by techinspector1

12 to a case?

Yes, case of 12.

09-30-2013 04:00 PM

Davect06607

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

The bog could be simply a worn out accelerator pump. Remove the air cleaner and look down the carb venturis. Work the throttle open and see if it you see a squirt of gas entering the carb?
On the Brad Penn oil; do a Google search for dealers in your area. That's how I found my local dealer and he sold me the case for $72.

There is fuel from venturis with throttle. Haven't checked the secondaries ones yet though, but primary, yes.

I have acc. pump in middle hole (normal position) still, does the accelerator pump have anything to do with the secondaries?
I thought it was mainly for the primaries.

09-30-2013 03:53 PM

techinspector1

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

The bog could be simply a worn out accelerator pump. Remove the air cleaner and look down the carb venturis. Work the throttle open and see if it you see a squirt of gas entering the carb?
On the Brad Penn oil; do a Google search for dealers in your area. That's how I found my local dealer and he sold me the case for $72.

12 to a case?

09-30-2013 03:51 PM

1971BB427

The bog could be simply a worn out accelerator pump. Remove the air cleaner and look down the carb venturis. Work the throttle open and see if it you see a squirt of gas entering the carb?
On the Brad Penn oil; do a Google search for dealers in your area. That's how I found my local dealer and he sold me the case for $72.

09-30-2013 03:35 PM

cobalt327

Congrats on your successful build!

"Too much zinc is bad also..." True that. You might find using ZDDPlus added to a quality over the counter motor oil to cost less but that's easy enough to check out.

09-30-2013 10:56 AM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davect06607

I'll have to look up that Brad Penn oil, haven't seen it around here.

I noticed on my drive in this morning, that when you punch it (opening secondaries) that is bogs. Doesn't bog,then take off, just bogs. No black smoke from exhaust during this either. I am thinking lean condition?

Carb has all stock springs and needles, so may look into getting a kit for it and attempt to richen up the secondaries. Or may just throw the Holley 650 DP back on and see what happens. I dont know....

Another thing that I have learned the past 2 days of driving it-3.08 gears suck!

Yah, 3.08's and a big tire are no fun lol, I honestly have zero experience with edelbrock at all (and I even use one) but love the 650dp, most will tell you its the wrong Carb for your application but I prefer them.

09-30-2013 08:39 AM

Davect06607

I'll have to look up that Brad Penn oil, haven't seen it around here.

I noticed on my drive in this morning, that when you punch it (opening secondaries) that is bogs. Doesn't bog,then take off, just bogs. No black smoke from exhaust during this either. I am thinking lean condition?

Carb has all stock springs and needles, so may look into getting a kit for it and attempt to richen up the secondaries. Or may just throw the Holley 650 DP back on and see what happens. I dont know....

Another thing that I have learned the past 2 days of driving it-3.08 gears suck!

09-30-2013 08:33 AM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

You may be misreading my post. I didn't say he shouldn't use additive, or zinc. I said too much is not good, and don't use break in oil after the engine is broken in.
All the newer SM and SN rated oils need additive, but not break in oil. I use Brad Penn because it's cheaper and better per oil change at around $6.25 a qt. than to buy regular oil and then buy ZDDP at $12-$13 a bottle per oil change.

This was my recommendation:
"I think you'll be fine without any additive to oil, but that depends on your oil of course! Too much zinc is bad also, so don't go overboard on breakin oil or additives! I use Brad Penn oil in my flat tappet engines, and I put lots of miles on them. It's the old Kendall factory, and is made to specs for early flat tappet type engines. "

Ahhhh, yep, I miss read, I had an argument recently about someone not wanting to spend a few bucks per oil change on an additive, or use the right oil, brad Penn, Joe Gibbs or what not, so I may have shot my mouth off prematurely lol.....
My apologies

09-30-2013 07:45 AM

1971BB427

Quote:

Originally Posted by bygddy

If your using conventional oil, as in pretty much any of the shelf 15-40 etc, use a freaking additive....I havent got a clue why your being told different, because the info is wrong, period. And its $6 bucks added to the cost of your oil change maybe twice a year.....so if this is actually a conversation over $12 a year in protection to help your motor live a long life and you listen to anyone who says its a bad idea then good luck.

You may be misreading my post. I didn't say he shouldn't use additive, or zinc. I said too much is not good, and don't use break in oil after the engine is broken in.
All the newer SM and SN rated oils need additive, but not break in oil. I use Brad Penn because it's cheaper and better per oil change at around $6.25 a qt. than to buy regular oil and then buy ZDDP at $12-$13 a bottle per oil change.

This was my recommendation:
"I think you'll be fine without any additive to oil, but that depends on your oil of course! Too much zinc is bad also, so don't go overboard on breakin oil or additives! I use Brad Penn oil in my flat tappet engines, and I put lots of miles on them. It's the old Kendall factory, and is made to specs for early flat tappet type engines. "

09-29-2013 03:45 PM

bygddy

If your using conventional oil, as in pretty much any of the shelf 15-40 etc, use a freaking additive....I havent got a clue why your being told different, because the info is wrong, period. And its $6 bucks added to the cost of your oil change maybe twice a year.....so if this is actually a conversation over $12 a year in protection to help your motor live a long life and you listen to anyone who says its a bad idea then good luck.

09-29-2013 03:01 PM

prostreet6t9

[QUOTE=1971BB427;1798657]I think you'll be fine without any additive to oil, but that depends on your oil of course! Too much zinc is bad also, so don't go overboard on breakin oil or additives!

X2! Dont read to much into the whole oil thing. I've done many non roller engines that have gotten lots of miles with no camshaft failures.

No doubt roller cams are the best.. But the Hyd and solid cams have they're place also. I do use some additive for break in but after the drain and refill I've never used any more additives.

09-29-2013 02:03 PM

1971BB427

I think you'll be fine without any additive to oil, but that depends on your oil of course! Too much zinc is bad also, so don't go overboard on breakin oil or additives! I use Brad Penn oil in my flat tappet engines, and I put lots of miles on them. It's the old Kendall factory, and is made to specs for early flat tappet type engines.
I'd want to know the location and positioning of the various components to comment on the fuel draining out. Offhand it sounds like maybe the needle on the floats isn't sealing well, which will let fuel leak into the engine, but also let fuel siphon back to the tank.
I'm still not a fan of adjusting lifters with engines running. It's based more on hearing them click, than really accurate adjustment. I agree with the spinning the pushrod to set lash; as that almost always ends up in things being too tight. Make sure you've got 1/2-3/4 turn after zero with these crummy lifters every cam maker supplies today. The wire clips will pop out if they don't have the extra turn, and then things will get ugly! I've had problems with them, as it took me awhile to understand what was happening to these late style lifter clips.

09-29-2013 12:52 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davect06607

lol, damn. You saw that.

Lol.....i have hit "enter" myself by accident......even worse when your texting the wife and hit send by accident when your trying to erase something stupid your about to send.
Glad you got it sorted out and running well. Your timing is likely pretty close as it sits now. I have a 1405 on my 306 in my Comet, I borrowed a 650DP last week just to try it and honest, the edelbrock seems a little smoother, easier start up etc, maybe even a touch crisper, but good lord it feels like its down a cyl in comparison to the Holley.....its sooooo much stronger with the 650 on it. Good luck and enjoy it, its satisfying when it comes together.

09-29-2013 12:13 PM

Davect06607

Quote:

Originally Posted by bygddy

?.........

lol, damn. You saw that.

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