Cheap Eats 2008: Vit Goel ToFu

Why go: Tofu soup may not sound like the stuff of cravings, but soondubu, the version at this serene, blond-wood parlor is irresistible. A tiny black cauldron hits the table looking like something out of the witches’ scene in Macbeth. Crack the accompanying raw egg into the pot and let the red-pepper broth, teeming with cubes of custardy tofu, cook the egg, which takes on the consistency of the tofu. Magic.

What to get:Soondubu or soondubu with oysters; sweet and tender barbecue short ribs called galbi.

Best for: A calm respite on a hard day. The place can make you believe that eating a good bowl of soup really is akin to an act of meditation.

Insider tip: The service is the antithesis of pushy; you have to flag your waitress down to get a beer, and it might take a while.