I havent played with them, I just removed them before Junking the blocks. I know the one I plan on using is low miles 93 turbo unit. I have a 94 turbo unit that is sitting here complete with filter still on it. Im sure it will need cleaning and new o rings. It was on a engine rebuilt by a ford shop in 2001 and I dont know if it was replaced at that time. 135000 miles then the engine spun a rod bearing or two and then broke a piston completely and kept running with the rod banging away inside the cylinder long enuff to grove it more than a 1/4 inch deep with the rist pin. I can bring it to you next week on my way south to AZ when I bring you some cam cores. You can check it out and if its good use it and we will work something out later. When I get off work thursday I will look at some of my cooler parts and get a better idea of what I have.

Ok the turbo unit is real nasty, I will bring you a complete unit that you can rebuild for a quick R&R . PM me your address and I will drop off the two cams and a oil cooler on your doorstep about 8:00 am sat the 24th.

Yeah, from what I've seen there is no real significant difference between the turbo unit and the n/a unit so that doesn't concern me. I just don't want to take my truck out of service to experiment with fixing one of these. Know what I mean?

Yes I know what you mean, Get your hands on the rebuild kit and you will be all set. I was thinking about shiming the pressure valve on mine due to the fact that I will be running a seperate Air compressor and a turbo and dont want low hot pressure to be a problem. I used to shim and use a orifice to improve oil pressure on my hot chevy builds. I read a thread on removing the stakes and shimming the spring about .060 to increase pressure about 10psi on the IDI. Do some research on it so you will be ready to mod that if you think its a good idea.

Yes I know what you mean, Get your hands on the rebuild kit and you will be all set. I was thinking about shiming the pressure valve on mine due to the fact that I will be running a seperate Air compressor and a turbo and dont want low hot pressure to be a problem. I used to shim and use a orifice to improve oil pressure on my hot chevy builds. I read a thread on removing the stakes and shimming the spring about .060 to increase pressure about 10psi on the IDI. Do some research on it so you will be ready to mod that if you think its a good idea.

I didn't have oil pressure issues. My oil pressure increased due to my tighter journal clearances. I just want to prevent this from happening again, once I figure out what happened!

I almost wonder if too much oil pressure fawked it up. When the engine is cold, and for about the first 20 minutes of driving or so, oil pressure was always up around 85psi.

Russ tells me when the bypass gets stuck and oil pressure jumps up to 80-100psi it blows the filter off. Well thats impossible with my setup due to my filter adapter.

It must get over 100 psi because when they really screw up it will pump up the lifters and hold the valves open.
Your pressure didnt damage it, I bet it has a tiny crud in it or its sticky/ scratched up on the internal piston. dont throw it away.

It must get over 100 psi because when they really screw up it will pump up the lifters and hold the valves open.
Your pressure didnt damage it, I bet it has a tiny crud in it or its sticky/ scratched up on the internal piston. dont throw it away.

Mine will easily hit 100psi+ when its cold, even right now.

However, I agree that the filter head is probably just gummed up or something. I hope that's the case.

OK I have 2 cams and a oil cooler for Justin. 1 cam and 1 intake manifold, and 4 nasty old injectors for shims for Russ. Space in the car is at a minimum with all the luggage but I think I will be fine. Russ pm me your address if its that close to the shop I will just run the stuff to your place. already got Justins place mapped. should hit justins about 9:00 am and Russ by noonish.

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