Jalisco is the Texas of Mexico. Everything's bigger, better or badder in Jalisco, from its sports teams to its cuisine. The best-known export from the capital of Guadalajara is the torta ahogada, a crusty birote roll stuffed full of carnitas and drowned (ahogada) in sauce. At Tortas Ahogadas Los Primos, a lonchera (emblazoned with the requisite picture of the Chivas, Guadalajara's pro soccer team) parked in a bleak, industrial stretch of Santa Ana's Fifth Street, the bread is deliberately left in the open to stale slightly, so it soaks up the sauce. Ah, that sauce! It comes two ways, depending on your level of chile commitment: A normal torta ahogada comes with a tomato-chile sauce, with a present but somewhat subtle heat; a "torta bien ahogada" comes swamped in a pint of pure chile de árbol sauce, which is about as subtle as a donkey's kick and will leave you begging for a container of jericalla, the flan-like custard that's a traditional accompaniment. $