Ginger, Almond, and Cranberry Semifreddo

One of the most important lessons I’ve learned so far second semester? Bundle up. Sometimes when I step outside it hurts to inhale, like the breath freezes in my lungs. Snow packs into the spaces between bricks.

The other morning I took an extra long, extra hot shower and found myself running late to class. I got dressed, swept up my books, and headed for the elevator. I didn’t give my towel-dried hair a second thought until I was on the sidewalk. I couldn’t have been outside longer than a few minutes, but when I got to the classroom, my skull was so cold it burned. My hair had frozen solid, waves of ice brushing against my cheeks.

When the temperature is in the single digits, I try not to leave my building. But between classes and shifts at the restaurant, I’m getting the full New England winter experience.

Way back in September, one of the things I immediately loved about Boston was its color palette. Seattle is splashed grey and green and blue, with chrome and glass and buildings that reflect the clouds. While it’s gorgeous and familiar, Massachusetts was a welcome change. Boston is all brick and gold and off-white, rich with history and equally beautiful. But four months later the cars and streets and trees are burdened with dirty snow, and that’s all I notice.

I walk to work with the same philosophy I have towards other unpleasant things – get it over with quickly. Salt crystals crackle beneath my boots every step of the way. Scarf, gloves, earmuffs, two coats and a pair of tights under my jeans… Every accessory means the longer it’ll take me to change into uniform once I get there.

When my shift ends long after midnight, the sidewalks are quiet and clear. Sometimes a fresh blanket of snow has fallen and untouched white stretches in all directions. The air is just as chilly before, but windless, and the street feels unreal. I’ve caught myself standing in the restaurant’s doorway, breathless, suddenly reminded why I love living here.

The walk home is so dark, it’s like a different set of streets. The blackness swallows up the lampposts, so the bulbous orange lights seem suspended in midair. Taxi headlights cut through the darkness in wide, white sweeps. I watch my breath curl into itself and dissolve up towards the sky, which is either greyed purple or orange thanks to light pollution.

Boston is painted with an entirely different color theme at 1 AM. And as I walked home last night, past leafless trees embossed with snow, I suddenly thought of semifreddo.

When the semifreddo is made, a quick custard folded with whipped cream, it’s marshmallowy and soft. But after an overnight freeze, it becomes an entirely different dessert, with the creamy richness of ice cream. And this semifreddo has a gorgeous color palette, too. The base is flavored with dry white wine and a hint of orange, the color of eggshells. Every slice is studded with vibrant dried cranberries and sharp crystalized ginger, like gems held up to the light.

I realize it’s still the dead of winter, but I’m one of those people who orders iced coffee and eats gelato all year. I can get home from work, clap my snow-packed boots together, and enjoy a cold fruit smoothie straight from the fridge. I’m one of the lucky people who happily makes semifreddo whenever the whim strikes. This dessert is unusual and beautiful, worth a hurried walk through the chill.

Line a 9x5x3 inch metal loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving a 3 inch overhang on all the sides.

In a medium metal bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and white wine. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk constantly until a candy thermometer registers 160 degrees F, about 5 minutes. Remove the bowl from heat and beat with an electric mixer until cool and thickened, about 5 minutes. Beat in the orange peel.

Whip the cream in a large bowl until peaks form. Add the egg mixture and gently fold together with a rubber spatula. Fold in the almonds, cranberries, and ginger. Transfer the mixture into the prepared pan. Fold the overhanging plastic wrap over the top so the semifreddo is completely covered. Freeze overnight.

When ready to serve, turn the semifreddo out onto a plate and peel off the plastic wrap. Let it stand 5 minutes to slightly soften, then serve in slices.

I always look forward to your posts. Everything you make looks and sounds sooo good. Your photography is beautiful and inspires me to work harder to take great pictures. Your writing always transports me to where you are, like I’m right there with you. I am amazed at all that you have accomplished and how you manage to do so much and do it all so well.. You are truly amazing and I appreciate that you share it with all of us that read your blog. Thank you :)

I enjoy every single minute I spend reading your blog. Your pictures are glorious. Your writing feels like you’re sitting next to me and telling me about your life. As a life-long New Englander, I’ve begun to see life here in a different light thanks to your perspective. Cheers!

I always look forward to reading your posts too. You are great at bringing a scene alive in my mind. I have never tried semifreddo before, but I LOVE ice cream and I eat it all winter long so I need to try this too. Thanks for the recipe!

This semifreddo was one of the desserts I made earlier at home, in an attempt to “stock up” in case I couldn’t bake at school. But even though the pictures were snapped a few months ago, I think the spirit fits with right now :)

It is freezing here in Ontario too, -28C requiring the dreaded tights and jeans combo. A nice bonus however is the ability to wear cute earmuffs and eat tons of soup. Oddly enough, I’ve been craving an ice-creamy desert lately and this sounds like just the ticket!

I’m always excited to read your posts! I save it for after I finish my homework to read as a treat. Lovely writing and photos, as usual. I’m glad I read this though, because now I know I’m NOT going to Boston for college! It’s hard to believe you actually have time for this blog on top of your college life and job. Thank you!!

Take two paracetamol, 300mg of caffeine pills and wash it down with as many energy drinks as possible.
You are now ready to take on the world and anything it can throw at you, including bad weather.
Or you’ll have excessive heart palpatations go into mild hyperglycemic shock.

What a lovely dessert! I, too, live in Boston, and can relate completely to this post! I love your contrast between the dark, dirty snow after a day full of pedestrians muddling through the city, and the peaceful, soft snow immediately after it falls. A couple of nights ago, when I heard the plow machines out at 11 pm, I just thought, “why can’t they wait. why can’t they just let the snow fall peacefully?” Oh well.

I too went to college in Boston, and even though I’m from Texas, I LOVED eating ice cream in the winter! I found it amusing to walk down the street eating ice cream that was actually warmer than the air around me:-)

I smiled when I read the first part of this post. I lived in Seattle (Bothell) until I went to college in Chicago. I’ve been in the Midwest for 6 1/2 years now, and it’s the first winter I’ve finally gotten the hang of dressing properly for the weather. It’s a pain, but I’m so much happier now that I wear a scarf, gloves, and boots :).
The dessert looks wonderful – and different, too.
Thanks for sharing!

This semester, my English teacher has given my class the assignment of choosing One Little Word to be our theme for the year. We are supposed to ponder it, reflect on it, and apply it to our everyday lives. I chose the word “present” to remind myself to live fully and truly experience each moment. The assignment has been rather inspiring, and I’ve really enjoyed seeing that little word pop up spontaneously in my life. And now, reading your post, I am reminded once again. So often, we close our eyes to the world around us, concentrating only on getting through the biting wind of our lives. But then there are those times – when the light changes, catches our attention – and all of a sudden we are reminded how good it is to be alive!
Thanks for your thoughts, I really enjoy your blog :) And I hope you don’t freeze to death.

I always look forward to your blog post! The way you always describe the food metaphorically relating it to some situation is always interesting to read. I love the way you are so descriptive in the way you describe the New England weather that I feel like I am there myself. I also enjoy the way you describe every food, to the point that I can almost picture it in front of me. Thank you for a great post!

The way you correllate food to your present life experiences and emotions simply amazes me. I can literally see the palette of colors that you describe and taste the food. From your pictures, I can see that you appreciate the beauty in life, and you capture the wondrous look and texture of your food so perfectly!

This post is perfection. THIS is blogging at it’s most perfect, most equalizing. 10 years ago I would read my normal food columnists and go through life never having been exposed to such wonderful, talent. This is the kind of post I wish I could clip out and post on my wall. May you never stop writing, cooking and photographing. Seriously. I was with you through this whole post. The food, the story, this is why you kids are the future and why storytelling trumps all, even now in the digital age. Keep up the GREAT work!

Elissa your food photography is beautiful! I love olive oil cake and the rhubarb crisp looks like the one we made at Chez Panisse. It was so nice to see you at the restaurant for lunch the other day. Thanks for stopping in.