So yea this happened. My mechanic just told me the CVT is done and only time the car gave me any trouble until now. NEVER any signs of a issue, then dead. The night it went out, normal driving and then RPMs just went up all the way, wouldn't shift so I pulled over. Drove slow up to a parking lot and let it rest. Next day I moved it 30 feet or so, seemed fine but I wanted to get it checked out.Following day I put into drive and all the gears are gone. so confused. ''scratching head" I figured it was electrical at that point but nope mechanic said its trans.. idk

Checked the fluid, a little dirty but not very bad and looked under the car no leaks.. so wth. only 110,000 am I SOL?

I guess my question is ? Anyone had any luck fighting with Suzuki about this considering the CVT module was just replaced and now this.. also 110,000 is just out of warranty, am I screwed or what? any ideas greatly appreciated.

I'm not so sure the trans is completely 'dead' especially if you weren't experiencing any issues (mechanical noises or vibes, whining, etc.). What CVT module are you speaking of and why exactly was it replaced? The TCM (Transmission Control Module)? Was it replaced w/ the correct one? By Suzuki authorized repair center? How many miles/months ago? Typically there's a year/12k warranty on service work. Might want to explore that avenue. Was this module new or used? There are several p/n's of the TCM, as well as different p/n's for the CVT assembly itself.

Typically in the early days (2010/11 MYs) of weird behavior as you describe, The CVT and the TCM were replaced as a pair. There's a bunch of solenoids inside the trans, a temp sensor that can put the thing into limp mode when fluid temps get too hot (which will happen as the fluid is aged and loses its ability to do the job), and far too many wires in general for my liking. So I'd lean towards the 'something electrical' as you feel. Did your mechanic (Suzuki?) open it up and find metal chunks or debris? If not how in the world can he claim it's the trans? 110,000 miles? If the fluid has never been changed, it IS most definitely filthy dirty, and, spent. You can not discern this from the dipstick. If it's 'a little dirty' on the stick and never been changed, I guarantee you it is dark brown, nearly black. Drain it into a pan and you will see.

Member 'oldtech' here has been working w/ these transmissions in the Kizashi and has some experience under his belt w/ them. Hopefully he'll chime in. Do some searching on here for CVT issues and CVT fluid to educate yourself, plenty of info on here regarding the CVTs.

If there has never been any fluid changes on this trans then most likely the trans reeper is calling it home. These things are metal makers plain and simple. Fluid must be changed and magnets cleaned off( to make room for more) every 30k in my opinion. It may have the screen clogged over causing your car to move at first when started and then buzzing and then nothing.If you want to play with it, drain and save fluid , pull pan , inspect debris, clean off screen and put old fluid back in to try. If there was enough debris to clog though , trans needs replaced or rebuilt. Here in n/w pa a good low mile trans installed, new fluid ,extra magnets, with one yr warranty on parts and labor is $1900 Where is home for you ?

I am in South West Virginia and I haven't replaced the fluid since 30k.. I was under the impression that it lasted 100k.. now i learn the hard way. My guess is this mechanic didn't really look into it as best as he could. I should bring it to the Suzuki guys that replaced my TCM. and yes, Ronzuki I assume it was replaced with a new TCM, it was the one they recalled.. was 8 months ago.

Unfortunately, The Suzuki guys know less than the folks here regarding CVT maint. They simply follow the service schedule which doesn't include doing anything to the CVT. 110k minus 30k is 80k on the fluid...exactly the mileage I finally replaced my burnt, smelly, spent fluid for the first time last fall. Fortunately, there wasn't anything abnormal in the fluid or filters (there are 2 in the CVT). Very fine metallic gray/silvery goo around the pan's magnets, a perfectly clean pan filter screen and nothing but burnt fluid soaked into the cooler return filter element, which, as far as Suzuki is concerned, doesn't even exist. Not on their parts catalog breakdown of the trans.

I'd give oldtech's suggestion a try...drain and save the fluid, open it up and see what's what. What have ya got to lose at this point?

Ya its worth a try considering the price, for sure. Just in case I need to get a new one, you mentioned multiple part numbers for the CVT? so they are not all interchangeable ? what if I get one out of an AWD and mine is the same or do I need to match something more. much appreciated!

Maybe oldtech can shed light on the interchangeability question since he's actually gone through the motions and has done the deed a few times. If they are interchangeable between MYs, and not knowing specifically what the subtle changes are, I would imagine you would also need the donor's TCM to go along with it. Can't say for sure. All I know for certain is there are different trans p/n's and different TCM p/n's, presumably to match. And as I stated earlier in the early days of failure, Suzuki was replacing CVT and TCM together as a pair. I'm sure some of the differences have to do w/ AWD versus FWD models. However, there are different p/n's from VIN number to VIN number (or, year to year) in each drivetrain config.

On swapping Kizashi trannies between all 4 model yrs, this is what Ive found. I have put 10s into 12s and vice versa with absolutely no problem as long as you keep the rom (1 1/2 sq block on the side of the valve body) with its original tcm. If for some reason this cant be done , you have to remarry these things to get them to work together and that process sometimes goes well and other times it doesnt. I had one that took right away only to return in a week in limp mode and the second time it took and is still going fine now but just avoid that mess. I have not done a 13 yet but would bet heavily it be the same. Yard books and wiring diagrams confirm this. On different part no. a lot of the time its a small mapping change for emissions even on transmissions. On swapping between FWD and AWD. I cant recommend that be done on a diy level because of the bearing preloads that must be checked and the obvious voiding of any junkyard warranty , but it can and has been done successfully . The bell housing and differential unit are the only 2 pieces making it specific. An anaerobic sealer should be used instead of silicone sealer because the trans Gurus say the cvt fluid eats the silicone.

So the ROM on the dead trans can be physically swapped on to the donor trans, thus marrying it to the vehicle's TCM. Unless, of course, the ROM itself is the actual problem w/ the dead trans. Obtaining the donor vehicle's TCM would still be prudent possibly avoiding the fickle process of marrying the two odd-balls together. Invaluable info, thank you!

Sounds as though the OP may or may not have an actual dead trans. Based upon your description of what you've experienced with the marrying process, could very well be electronic gremlins...trans ROM or TCM, brought about by the OP's 'module' replacement. Since there wasn't any mechanical issues reported, I'd be leaning heavily towards that line of thinking.

mechanic said it smelled bad.. and fried. and that it tries to engage ~ so most likely toast!! but some great info here regarding the ROM and TCM. I am looking at either a 2010 or 2012, both AWDs for purchase. They have about 80k on them and the 2010 is considerably cheaper. if I get the cheaper I am looking at around $2200 all installed as long as no major issues.