Yeah. I emailed him a few days ago. Worst he can say is no again. Lol. Looks like I'll be going custom.

The dynalite and superlite calipers fit our caliper mounts, the problem is rotors. There are a few people that have just put the dynalite calipers on stock rotors (this will be what I will most likely end up doing on the rear) but finding replacements are tough. you could remake the backing plate that attaches to the spindle and measure the offset and whip up a whole bracket. But in order to do this you will need to get calipers, and rotors. The reason that Dale did these was to be able to source an off the shelf rotor that didn't break the bank. My rotors can be replaced for 65.00 per pair, so that's a huge benefit.

The dynalite and superlite calipers fit our caliper mounts, the problem is rotors. There are a few people that have just put the dynalite calipers on stock rotors (this will be what I will most likely end up doing on the rear) but finding replacements are tough. you could remake the backing plate that attaches to the spindle and measure the offset and whip up a whole bracket. But in order to do this you will need to get calipers, and rotors. The reason that Dale did these was to be able to source an off the shelf rotor that didn't break the bank. My rotors can be replaced for 65.00 per pair, so that's a huge benefit.

Agreed. That's why I order one side through wilwood to see what worked. He PM'ed me back and said he would do something in about a month. Don't know if I can wait that long so will most likely get something custom made.

If i recal correctly, my front spring is kept in place by placing the aluminium sleeve with the lock nut halfway winded down on top of the spring.
The aluminium sleeve faals halfway into the spring, and the locknut sits on top of the spring. The locknut is then large enough to secure the top of the spring in the subframe

Would have to check for sure I did it this way when I get the car on a ramp.

I always thought front coilovers like this would be the way to go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPEN-BOX-SPE...-/161711181638 Where the upper end of the taper wound spring would fit in the stock position. Just need to make adapters for the lower mounts.
I think I'm the guy the OP is thinking of for moving the lower ball joint. I did it as an experiment to look at ride height. It was too low for me so I never drove it that way. But if you want to try, I cut the mounting pieces off two old BJ's and put them in the stock location, set the new BJ's on top of the lower control arm and installed appropriate length grade 8 bolts through both pieces. Lowered the car about 50mm, that is all!

the QA1 setups also come in stud-stud variants, so you might just be able to grab something bolt on and go. I had some part numbers somewhere... and Andrew tried something, but not exactly sure which ones.