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Pinion Gear

I just replaced my Velineon system with a CC 3800kv setup. I ordered a 14t pinion (Traxxas #5640). It doesn't seem like the pinion is meshing properly with the spur. I'm getting a major grinding noise. With the the motor removed, everything is smooth. With the motor in and the pinion gear not tightened to the motor shaft, I get the grinding noise.

That pinion should fit as long as you are running the stock spur gear. Just be sure your driveline bearings are OK, and you mesh it properly.
One other thing. Sometimes the grub screw on a pinion can touch the spur gear, so make sure the spur gear/slipper assy doesen't have to much play in the forward/aft direction. In addition, I have seen the flat part of some motor shafts being too sort so that the pinion can't slide enough onto the shaft.

So I pulled all the drive train apart. I found the center axle belled, bent, and worn. Ran down to the LHS. They had a Slash axle, so I just bought it and cut it to size. Both rear and front drives are smooth as can be. Put everything back together, still noisy when motor is in.

Center Axle

Drive with Motor not Engaged

Drive with Motor Engaged

Is it just the 4 pole motor? The original motor didn't sound like this.

The 3800 gives quite some resistance when you turn it by hand, so that is normal.
Is your motor plate lined up the right way? I once used the wrong screws myself and ended up with a wrong mesh that way.

The 3800 gives quite some resistance when you turn it by hand, so that is normal.
Is your motor plate lined up the right way? I once used the wrong screws myself and ended up with a wrong mesh that way.

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What do you mean by "the motor plate lined up the right way"? I believe I have it right. I have the side with the screw hole chambers away from the motor. Used pan head stainless screws to mount motor.

I did mesh properly. So from some of the feedback......I decided to roll with it. Ran through one battery.....nice improvement over the stock system and kept my temp at 160 degrees. So I let it cool down to ambient and ran another battery. 15 minutes later, I see a wheel just take off. Totally wore through my 2 week old wheel. Checked temperatures of carriers. The left carrier that lost the wheel was 110 degrees. Other was 85 degrees. It seems every 3rd run, I'm breaking something.

I had the same thing happen to me a few times. I wish one of these companies would make a 2.8 size wheel with 17mm hex! Got tired of stripped wheels and upgraded to 17mm hubs, but no good choices in wheels/tires.

I use rubber epoxy on the traxxas aluminium hexes and the aluminium serrated lock nuts part number 1747r being going strong for ages with the torque of the tenshock plus keep wheel nuts tight and use a bit of blue threadlock........peace

I use rubber epoxy on the traxxas aluminium hexes and the aluminium serrated lock nuts part number 1747r being going strong for ages with the torque of the tenshock plus keep wheel nuts tight and use a bit of blue threadlock........peace

The problem is....those are MIP axles. So I bit the bullet and just order 17mm wheels and another set of tires. It seems I can't find any supplier with 17mm MIP adapters in stock. So I put an back order in with one supplier.

I was able to remove the tire and throw it on a new rim.....but it's only going to happen again.

The problem is....those are MIP axles. So I bit the bullet and just order 17mm wheels and another set of tires. It seems I can't find any supplier with 17mm MIP adapters in stock. So I put an back order in with one supplier.

I was able to remove the tire and throw it on a new rim.....but it's only going to happen again.

Just curious, what wheels did you order in 17mm? I want to try the revolvers, but don't want to do so much modifying to get it to work.

I tried just trimming the tires and not trimming the Revolvers. I didn't like how the bead sat at all. So I trimmed of the outer lip on the wheels. Very time consuming. Fastest way I found was to get the bulk with a Rotozip with drum wheel and then smooth out with a Dremel with drum wheel.

And trying to get the inner foam lined up and even......is alot of playing.

So I finally got the conversion done. I like the stance of the new wheels. It added a little to the width of the truck. The only issue I had was the MIP adapters. The nut is very shallow. And with the revolvers having the fake lugs so close to the nut......you can get a socket on the nut. So I bought a cheap 17mm socket and grinded off the bevel and narrowed it up abit.

So with the 17mm upgrade and a new set of Proline shocks, my truck is handling great. Also, no breakage.

I have the urge to step up to 3S. I'm currently running 14/54 on my 3800kv motor. Highest temp I have seen was 165°F, but most of the time I'm around 150°F after my pack.

I have gone through some of the gearing calculators and it seems a 11/54 gearing with 3S would be just slightly faster than my current gearing on 2S. But that is stock gearing and Castle states my combo is not recommended on stock gearing.

Anyone help me out with my decision? Do I need to go down lower with the gearing? I would like to pick up some performance, but stay at the same temps.