you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.

you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.

you jump two terminals on GM, you cycle the key for Chrysler. The two are completely different and not used together.

you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.

I tried to do this the other day and it didn't do anything. This only works on OBD1 ports that have a terminal in both the A and B slots, mine doesn't. This is why I was looking for a scan tool.

check injector pulse as well, then do a compression test. OBDI isn't advanced enough to tell you much for this problem, especially if the check engine light hasn't been set off.

Thanks for the advice, will check into how to check for injector pulse. I don't believe the check engine light came on when the car died on me. I tried using starting fluid, but that didn't do anything, but it is not easy to use starting fluid on the design of this engine (3.4L DOHC)

I'm not sure how the ignition system and injectors are fired on those, but generally, if you lose the timing belt, you will also lose 1 or both of those.
I would lift the fuel rail with the injectors still in it, and check the spray pattern (kill the ignition system first) then check compression.

I'm not sure how the ignition system and injectors are fired on those, but generally, if you lose the timing belt, you will also lose 1 or both of those.
I would lift the fuel rail with the injectors still in it, and check the spray pattern (kill the ignition system first) then check compression.

Thought about removing the injectors and rail and trying it out, but the design of this engine would make it very hard to do without having to remove part of the intake manifold.