Cook Once, Eat Twice: Fresh Tomato Sauce

Turn those ripe-right-now tomatoes into a big pot of sauce; then make the most of it in three unexpected recipes.

I look forward to summer tomatoes the way some children feverishly anticipate Christmas morning, counting down the weeks until they appear at my farmers’ market.

But just like a child surrounded with too many gifts, I admit to feeling a little overwhelmed by the bounty when tomato season is in full swing. I try my best to do right by them, serving tomatoes in salads, sandwiches, and savory tarts. But when all those red beauties start to overtake the counter, I pull out my biggest saucepan and get to work on a big batch of fresh tomato sauce.

The best tomatoes for sauce are Romas (also known as plum tomatoes), because they’re meaty and have less water than other varieties. Once peeled and seeded, they cook into a richly flavored sauce in about an hour.