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Anytime the Electric Throttle Control Actuator (Throttle Body) or ECU is disconnected from the wiring harness, the idle speed will need to be re-learned. This procedure can also resolve a high idle at park or in neutral of over 1500 RPM and a pulsating idle that goes high and drops low repeatedly. The idle for the Nissan Versa should be between 650-750 RPM at park or in neutral. The official procedure can be found here; however, I found that this procedure is very time sensitive and it was much easier to perform it the following way.

* The following procedures are time sensitive and if messed up, must be started from the beginning. It may take a few tries to get it right.

1. Turn the ignition switch (key) to the off position and wait 10 seconds.

2. Turn the ignition switch (key) to the on position and start the stop watch at the same time. (The on position is the second click)

3. At 3 seconds on the stop watch, press the accelerator pedal fully to the floor and fully release it 5 times before the stop watch gets to 8 seconds. (Timing wise, all that matters is it gets done 5 times between 3 and 8 seconds on the stop watch)

4. At 15 seconds on the stop watch, press the accelerator pedal fully to the floor and hold it down.

5. At 35 seconds on the stop watch, fully release the accelerator pedal and then immediately start the engine.

6. At 60 seconds on the stop watch, rev up the engine 2-3 times and make sure each time the tachometer falls back down to 650-750 RPM.

7. Turn the ignition switch (key) to the off position - idle is now set.

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I have a 2007 hatchback with 101k miles. I changed the spark plugs last month and have had this coffee since . I've tried the relearn several times with no improvement. Bought a used throttle body to try for fun with the same issue. I've had a mechanic tell me to replace the first pump because this will also improve the bad mpg. (I get about 30) what should I do next? Tx, Bill

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I have a 07 manual trans versa s with 104K miles. It idles up and down when its in neutral.
I first checked all hoses for crack or vacuum leak found none.
I clean the original trottle body assemble and perform the relearn technique No fix. So I replaced PVC valve, 4 spark plugs, new trottle body and perform the relean technique . The car still idles up and down.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

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If the up and down is within 100 rpm it can be normal if you are running a/c on an older engine. The a/c kicking on and off does it. It does not show until the engine gets more miles on it as new engines maintain idle speed better than old when you switch the load on and off.

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I don't understand the problem. The only thing messing with throttle body would be power to it gets cut off when disconnected. I yank battery all the time on mine and never have to do anything at all, the car goes back to idling fine.

Now, if you mess with the TB butterfly while disconnected then THAT could be an issue.

True up and down surging I have always found to be a vacuum leak. If so you can reset idle all day long and not touch that issue. Just because somebody says they searched for leaks means quite literally nothing, most people have not a clue of all the leak points that can be in an intake system, they commonly miss 90% of them.

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Thanks PT for posting this. I had the exact same problem, high pulsating revs at idle after working on throttle body, including disconnecting its electrical. Your protocol finally worked for me, after I tried various other descriptions and videos with no success. However, I had an experience of it not seeming to work near the end, and shifting it into Drive seemed to do the magic for me. I've posted this variation of your method below. Also, the CEL persisted after car was fine, so I came across an easy way to "disappear" it. Here's what worked for me:

CONDITIONS: Check Engine Light (CEL) with P0507 trouble code and high/pulsating idle after disconnecting and reconnecting electrical to throttle position controller such as when cleaning throttle body.
TOOLS NEEDED: stopwatch or timer showing seconds.
1. When engine COLD, first perform the Accelerator Released Position and then the Throttle Valve Closed Position procedure.
2. Warm up engine at this point. I drove around my neighborhood for a bit less than 10 minutes despite somewhat high base revs in drive.
3. Car in Park, turn off all electrical powered stuff, wheels turned straight.
4. Turn key OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Turn key ON (not ignition) and start stopwatch at same time.
6. When stopwatch is at 3 seconds, press & release accelerator pedal 5x hard and quickly.
7. When stopwatch is at 15 seconds, press accelerator pedal and keep it down.
8. Approx when stopwatch shows 27 seconds, the solid CEL goes out then starts blinking. Keep the accelerator down. If the CEL never starts blinking, then something is not working and you'd better start over again.
9. When the CEL becomes solid again (stops blinking) about 10 seconds later, immediately start the engine and let it idle. It will still likely be a high-rev/pulsating idle.
10. Let it run for about 20 seconds and rev the gas a few times.
11. With foot on brake, shift into Drive. Idle will now go WAY down under 1000rpm. Shift to Park again, and the car will find its regular idle speed (near 650-700 rpm), and purr like a rather quiet kitten again. Operation will be normal except CEL may still be on. It may disappear soon on its own, or you can do the following:

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