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oil pump seal

I regret removing the one that was in place because when I tried to put the new one in it seems to be a lot bigger then the old one and I keep trying to put it in but no cigar... question is: Is it supposed to be bigger then the opening and you need some special tool to ram it in or did these guys send me the wrong part? It really has to shrink a lot to be able to fit in there and this seems like a non shrink part. I waited all this time for this gasket set and then this crap happens , I can't move forward with the build until I get this thing in and if it really is the wrong part now I gotta wait for another seal

It definitely won't just fall in. Lip seals are a very snug fit in the housing and need to be driven in squarely without damaging the sealing lip or garter spring. Check YouTube, there's gotta be a tutorial on lip seal installation. Like Sparkie asked, how much difference in size is there?

ok using the vernir caliper I measure the old one at 46.16 mm OD and the new one that came with my set is 49.77 OD

Everything else so far seems to be the right size but if this 1 thing is wrong it really puts a halt in my build and makes it not worth buying in my opinion. They need to fix that or else they don't deserve anyones money

I presume you're talking about a 4AGE... at least I hope so. The front crank seal of a 4AGE is the same as any 4A engine (4AC, 4AFE...)... pretty much any Corolla from '83 up to '97 or so... Any auto parts store will have one (is my bet).

I tried for 1/2 an hour to get the oil seal on straight. I could not get the oil seal started right to save my life.
The final solution ****[ grind the rubber off the OD down to the casing for 1/8" all round the diameter and also taper the rubber for another 1/8 to 3/16". ] *** The OD casing piloted right in!!! The job was done in a minute. Dave W

4AGE front Oil Seal
The solution to the installation of the seal into the housing is to grind the rubber coating on the outside of the oil seal casing. Grind about and 1/8” back to the metal case. The grind another 1/8 to 3/16 of the rubber back on a taper. The seal OD will then pilot square to the housing and it will press right into the housing.

Disassembly for the oil seal
The first problem is the crank pulley bolt. Some guys just put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt and hit the starter. I’ve always been afraid something would go flying and destroy something. I made a bar with two prongs that fit in the pulley spokes to hold it while turning the bolt with a breaker bar. A 2nd method I used is to pull the two bolts holding the starter motor and insert a tool to hold the flywheel. If you borrow or rent and impact gun, that would be the easiest solution.
Once the bolt is removed you can use a steering wheel puller to remove the crank pulley.

The 2nd problem is removing the cam belt gear. There is not enough space to get the typical puller on the gear. I used a on [engine] head spring compressor. By removing the inner center section that of the compressor, the tabs that sets against the valve retainer, I was able to fit the smaller legs behind the cam gear. Once the gear has moved out a little you can then use a small pry bar to remove the gear.
Last before re-assembly, lube or spray WD-40 on the crank to prevent any rust, making the next repair much easier. Dave W

I've never had any issues installing oil seals, nor have I ever modified seals before installing. Not saying you're doing it wrong, only that I've installed dozens of 4AG crank and cam seals without modifications or issues.