Monday, May 4, 2015

Jacob & Co. Caligula Tourbillon Baguette

Invented in the 17th century, the art of erotic watchmaking represents a lesser-known tradition that gives haute horology an added layer of depth and a discreet, mischievous personality. The 19th century proscription against the taboo discipline only heightened the interest of horological enthusiasts around the globe. The Caligula Tourbillon Baguette revives the whimsical tradition all the while showcasing the fascinating practice of the automaton.

While allusions to the hidden sensual surprise are present at first glance in the form of a suggestive fishnet-stocking motif on the dial and case, the exquisite secret is exposed only upon the desire of the wearer. A turning of the crown at 4 o’clock rotates the dial to reveal the voluptuous erotic scene meticulously hand-painted by miniature artist André Martinez. The crown at 3 o’clock is then used to activate the spectacle and unveil the Caligula Tourbillon Baguette’s hidden gem. When the secret is concealed, the timepiece expresses sensuality in Jacob & Co’s signature voice: the passionate radiance of diamonds.

The 46mm 18K white gold case boasts a textural diamond setting of precious triangular baguette diamonds, while the crowns echo the shimmering effect. Beneath the fishnet design, yet above the hidden scene, a generous additional arrangement of baguette triangle diamonds produces a multidimensional play of light. At 12 o’clock, rising from the heart of the movement to overlook the enthralling exhibition, the timepiece’s tourbillon, hand-engraved and finished with Côtes de Genève, counters the adverse effects of gravity with grace and sophistication. The entire spectacle, including the indication of the hours and minutes via a traditional two-hand design, is driven by the manually wound JCAM08 caliber, equally finished with Côtes de Genève in a demonstration of Jacob & Co.’s immense respect for and command of fine Swiss craftsmanship.

This bold revitalization of a once-prohibited art exemplifies the brand’s unceasing desire to challenge convention and create timepieces both unique and spectacular. The Caligula Tourbillon Baguette ingeniously combines contemporary aesthetic accents with idiosyncratic charm. In doing so, the timepiece honors the past in the most honest of ways: by not merely paying tribute, but rather by integrating the whimsical showmanship of a treasured epoch within a pertinent evolution of modern notions.