BEHIND THE SCENES: Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton

Modern knew to expect something great when Joico's Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton came to our studios to create an exciting new color for the pages of our April issue. This dynamic duo did not disappoint...changing their model's hair from OK to FAB!

"It's not what you cut off but what you leave on," says Carney. "The most important thing is that we've created a shoter graduated look with internal length to encompass the haircolor." Carney used a lot of "scissor over comb" cutting to keep the sides and edges soft. "The fringe is very important," he continues. "There is a modern rounded shape that compliments the face shape, enhancing the cheekbones and eyes."

For color, Pemberton chose to tackle the very dark base with 10 volume developer to create what she calls the 2013 ombre. "I always use 10 volume," she says. "It helps to maintain the health of the hair." Using back to back slices, Pemberton feathered lightener before adding red and copper to complete the look.

But, as all colorists know, things don't always go according to plan. In this bonus video, important for any colorist to watch, Pemberton shows how to deal with color that lifts unevenly. Turning a lemon into lemonade, she says "I'm just going to use it my advantage!" Watch this short video to see how a seasoned makes uneven color work for her.

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About the Author:

Maggie Mulhern

Maggie Mulhern, MODERN's Beauty & Fashion Director, is the NYC based Editor and Art Director for Modern Salon Magazine and modernsalon.com. Maggie joined MODERN in the 1980's and has spent more than 3 decades covering the professional beauty industry around the world. In addition to writing articles, Maggie travels globally as a beauty journalist to report on the latest beauty trends, products and techniques. Known for a keen eye, Maggie has judged hundreds of national competitions including NAHA, and international competitions such as Wella International Trend Vision and Goldwell Color Zoom among others. As an Art Director, Maggie is responsible for hundreds of magazine covers and thousands of inside pages and features for Modern Salon and it's sister publications. Among her many professional passions is ARTIST SESSION, the 2 day workshop she founded which offers direction and inspiration to hairdressers interested in learning how to do successful photoshoots. A graduate of Boston College, Maggie is the author of Great Looks (Doubleday) and, in the few minutes of spare time she has left, is working on a book for children that has NOTHING to do with beauty.