Hello Brad, typically the 'power relay failure' is from turning off the engine main battery switch before switching off the ignition at the EKEY panel on the dash. Or if the voltage drops below normal with the ignition on.

It appears that the inverter is a separate question, which if you'd like to give me a call I'd be glad to help walk through operation and/or diagnose. (253)839-5213.

TBates wrote:Hello Brad, typically the 'power relay failure' is from turning off the engine main battery switch before switching off the ignition at the EKEY panel on the dash. Or if the voltage drops below normal with the ignition on.

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer of help.

I typically use the start/stop button without having to pass the fob over the ignition switch. I have private moorage and keep the fob in the boat so you may have hit the nail on the head there.

Can I give you a call today regarding the inverter? What time would be good?

Spoke to Andrew this morning as you were on another call. (Thanks Andrew)

You were right about the power relay failure message. Using the fob to turn the ignition on and off has got rid of that.

Regarding the inverter I’ve gone through Andrew’s suggested checks. The only thing I haven’t done (if I followed instructions correctly) is pull off the inverter and check internal fuses.

1. Red on/off switch next to batteries is on. (I could hear beep or sounds from the inverter when turning on and off)

2. ANL 175 fuse is okay and I sanded contacts on those.

3. In the cabin, there is no light on the switch when switching AC from shore to inverter. I get a green light on the Onboard Solutions Remote inverter unit. 80% DC Input. 0% AC output Battery Bank indicator shows 14V+ on all 3

On the inverter I checked the GFCI. I cleaned contacts on the white plug. Inverter shows a green light.

Is there anything else to check or do I just pull off the inverter and check internal fuses?

The 0% AC output on the inverter remote panel when the inverter is turned on is pretty telling. I agree it is time to check the inverter internal fuses. It is not a difficult job but it does have to be removed from the locker wall. You will need 6 35amp (30A works if you can’t find 35A) blade fuses.

I blew the fuses in our inverter the first year. If your R27 is wired like mine it is really easy to inadvertently overload the inverter. This is because the inverter output is tied directly to the full AC panel when the transfer switch is in the inverter position. If the water heater and/or battery charger breakers are on the inverter fuses will fry pretty quickly. I now try (but sometimes fail, see below) to make a point of always shutting off all AC breakers before starting the inverter, then turn on only the breaker needed (usually microwave). I also have to remember to always shut down the inverter when finished using it!

The other day, I managed to forget these steps and when connecting shore power I switched on the main AC breaker only to notice just as I switched it there was already power shown on the meter and the water heater and battery charger breakers were on! I quickly switched the main breaker back off and, sure enough, then confirmed the inverter was on and selected. Even though it was only a few seconds I feared the inverter fuses were blown but lucked out and it was still OK. I need to stick a reminder tag next to the AC mains breaker to check that the inverter is off and not selected!

I remember having some issues with the inverter the first and only time I went cruising in 2016. I believe it was a low voltage warning beep that would go off at 2 AM if I was at anchor. Pretty much the only thing running at that point was the fridge and I’d just turn it off until I started cruising in the morning. First trip on the boat, first time cruising .... it’s a bit of a blur now.

Hopefully changing out the fuses does the trick. It’s a shame they can’t be accessed without pulling the unit off the wall.

Failing to hire a midget or contortionist, I managed to remove the inverter with the help of a mirror and long handled screwdriver. Pulled all 6 fuses which were fine. Sanded the contacts anyway.

When putting the housing together again I noticed the ground on the GFCI was all rusty. Eureka - the issue I imagined. Sanded and cleaned the contacts. Hooked everything up .... and nothing.

Realized I’d left the silicone sleeve off the positive cable. Pulled the unit off the wall. Forgot to unplug the remote plug and stretched out the lead. Seemed fine but when I checked the remote meter the output was showing 100% and Input 0%.

So. Still no power to the AC panel with the inverter and now a damaged remote cable.