Moon Los Cabos: Including La Paz & Todos Santos

Los Cabos is synonymous with luxury and relaxation, but the best of Baja starts just beyond the resorts. Dive into the real Mexico with Moon Los Cabos. Inside you'll find:
Flexible itineraries, from four days of waves, tacos, and sunshine to a road trip through Baja Sur, along with the best beaches for relaxing, diving, snorkeling, and surfing
Strategic advice for road-trippers, foodies, surfers, hikers, and more
Top activities and unique experiences: Explore mountain ranges, secluded beaches, and gorgeous waterfalls, or snorkel through pristine coral reefs. Drink margaritas in a beach-front cabaña, sip a cerveza from your hammock, or go whale watching to spot humpbacks, whale sharks, and sea lions. Savor the crispiest fish tacos, dance until dawn at a local favorite bar, or relax on the sand with a beach read
Expert insight from local tour guide Jennifer Kramer, who's spent nearly 30 years immersed in Baja, on where to eat, how to get around, and where to stay, from beach bungalows to luxurious resorts
Full-color photos and detailed maps throughout
Reliable background information on the landscape, climate, wildlife, and history, as well as common customs and etiquette
Handy tools including a Spanish phrasebook, packing suggestions, and travel tips for families with kids, seniors, travelers with disabilities, and LGBTQ travelers
With Moon Los Cabos' practical tips and local insight, you can plan your trip your way.

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Resources
Spanish Glossary
ABBREVIATIONS
Spanish Phrasebook
PRONUNCIATION
BASIC AND COURTEOUS EXPRESSIONS
TERMS OF ADDRESS
TRANSPORTATION
FOOD
ACCOMMODATIONS
SHOPPING
HEALTH
POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICATIONS
AT THE BORDER
AT THE GAS STATION
VERBS
NUMBERS
TIME
DAYS AND MONTHS
Suggested Reading
TRAVELOGUES
HISTORY AND CULTURE
NATURAL HISTORY AND FIELD GUIDES
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Internet Resources
ONLINE NEWSLETTERS
Spanish Glossary
abarrotes: groceries
aduana: customs
aguas termales: hot springs
alberca: swimming pool
antojitos: literally “little whims,” casual Mexican dishes like tacos or tortas
bahía: bay
BCN: the state of Baja California (Norte)
BCS: the state of Baja California Sur
calle: street
callejón: alley
campestre: literally “country,” used to refer to outdoor country restaurants
canon: canyon
cardón: a large cactus native to northwestern Mexico
caseta: tollbooth or guard shack
cervecería: brewery
cerveza: beer
colectivo: taxi van that picks up several passengers at a time, operating like a small bus
efectivo: cash
ejido: communally held land
farmacia: pharmacy
federales: nickname for the federal police
FMM forma migratoria multiple: tourist permit required for non-Mexican citizens traveling in Baja
Green Angels: a group providing free roadside assistance
gringo: a foreigner in a Spanish-speaking country who is not Latino or Hispanic
INM Instituto Nacional de Migración: unit of the Mexican government that controls migration
malecón: waterfront promenade
mariscos: seafood
mercado: market
mordida: literally “bite,” a bribe
palapa: structure with a thatched roof
PAN Partido Acción Nacional: Mexico’s conservative political party
panga: aluminum fishing boat
Pemex: the government-regulated gas stations in Mexico
playa: beach
PRD Partido de la Revolución Democrática: Mexico’s leftist political party
PRI Partido Revolucionario Institucional: Mexico’s centrist political p
punta: point
SAT Servicio de Administración Tributaria: unit of Mexican government that controls customs
SECTUR Secretaria de Turismo: Secretary of Tourism
tienda: store
tinaja: pool or spring
tope: speed bump
ultramarine: mini market/liquor store
vino: wine
ABBREVIATIONS
Av.: Avenida
Blvd.: Boulevard
Col.: Colonia
Km.: Kilometer
s/n: sin número (without number, used for addresses without building numbers)
Spanish Phrasebook
Spanish commonly uses 30 letters—the familiar English 26, plus four straightforward additions: ch, ll, ñ, and rr, which are explained in “Consonants,” below.
PRONUNCIATION
Once you learn them, Spanish pronunciation rules—in contrast to English—don’t change. Spanish vowels generally sound softer than in English. (Note: The capitalized syllables below receive stronger accents.)
Vowels
a like ah, as in “hah”: agua AH-gooah (water), pan PAHN (bread), and casa CAH-sah (house)
e like ay, as in “may:” mesa MAY-sah (table), tela TAY-lah (cloth), and de DAY (of, from)
i like ee, as in “need”: diez dee-AYZ (ten), comida ko-MEE-dah (meal), and fin FEEN (end)
o like oh, as in “go”: peso PAY-soh (weight), ocho OH-choh (eight), and poco POH-koh (a bit)
u like oo, as in “cool”: uno OO-noh (one), cuarto KOOAHR-toh (room), and usted oos-TAYD (you); when it follows a “q” the u is silent; when it follows an “h” or has an umlaut, it’s pronounced like “w”
Consonants
b, d, f, k, l, m, n, p, q, s, t, v, w, x, y, z, and ch pronounced almost as in English; h occurs, but is silent—not pronounced at all
c like k as in “keep”: cuarto KOOAR-toh (room), Tepic tay-PEEK (capital of Nayarit state); when it precedes “e” or “i,” pronounce c like s, as in “sit”: cerveza sayr-VAY-sah (beer), encima ayn-SEE-mah (atop)
g like g as in “gift” when it precedes “a,” “o,” “u,” or a consonant: gato GAH-toh (cat), hago AH-goh (I do, make); otherwise, pronounce g like h as in “hat”: giro HEE-roh (money order), gente HAYN-tay (people)
j like h, as in “has”: Jueves HOOAY-vays (Thursday), mejor may-HOR (better)
ll like y, as in “yes”: toalla toh-AH-yah (towel), ellos AY-yohs (they, them)
ñ like ny, as in “canyon”: año AH-nyo (year), señor SAY-nyor (Mr., sir)
r is lightly trilled, with tongue at the roof of your mouth like a very light English d, as in “ready”: pero PAY-doh (but), tres TDAYS (three), cuatro KOOAH-tdoh (four)
rr like a Spanish r, but with much more emphasis and trill. Let your tongue flap. Practice with burro (donkey), carretera (highway), and Carrillo (proper name), then really let go with ferrocarril (railroad)
Note: The single small but common exception to all of the above is the pronunciation of Spanish y when it’s being used as the Spanish word for “and,” as in “Ron y Kathy.” In such case, pronounce it like the English ee, as in “keep”: Ron “ee” Kathy (Ron and Kathy).
Accent
The rule for accent, the relative stress given to syllables within a given word, is straightforward. If a word ends in a vowel, an n, or an s, accent the next-to-last syllable; if not, accent the last syllable.
Pronounce gracias GRAH-seeahs (thank you), orden OHR-dayn (order), and carretera kah-ray-TAY-rah (highway) with stress on the next-to-last syllable.
Otherwise, accent the last syllable: venir vay-NEER (to come), ferrocarril fay-roh-cah-REEL (railroad), and edad ay-DAHD (age).
Exceptions to the accent rule are always marked with an accent sign: (á, é, í, ó, or ú), such as teléfono tay-LAY-foh-noh (telephone), jabón hah-BON (soap), and rápido RAH-pee-doh (rapid).
BASIC AND COURTEOUS EXPRESSIONS
Most Spanish-speaking people consider formalities important. Whenever approaching anyone for information or some other reason, do not forget the appropriate salutation—good morning, good evening, etc. Standing alone, the greeting hola (hello) can sound brusque.
Hello. Hola.
Good morning. Buenos días.
Good afternoon. Buenas tardes.
Good evening. Buenas noches.
How are you? ¿Cómo está usted?
Very well, thank you. Muy bien, gracias.
Okay; good. Bien.
Not okay; bad. Mal or feo.
So-so. Más o menos.
And you? ¿Y usted?
Thank you. Gracias.
Thank you very much. Muchas gracias.
You’re very kind. Muy amable.
You’re welcome. De nada.
Goodbye. Adios.
See you later. Hasta luego.
please por favor
yes sí
no no
I don’t know. No sé.
Just a moment, please. Momentito, por favor.
Excuse me, please (when you’re trying to get attention). Disculpe or Con permiso.
Excuse me (when you’ve made a mistake). Lo siento.
Pleased to meet you. Mucho gusto.
What is your name? ¿Cómo se llama usted?
Do you speak English? ¿Habla usted inglés?
Is English spoken here? (Does anyone here speak English?) ¿Se habla inglés?
I don’t speak Spanish well. No hablo bien el español.
I don’t understand. No entiendo.
How do you say . . . in Spanish? ¿Cómo se dice . . . en español?
My name is . . . Me llamo . . .
Would you like . . . ¿Quisiera usted . . .
Let’s go to . . . Vamos a . . .
TERMS OF ADDRESS
When in doubt, use the formal usted (you) as a form of address.
I yo
you (formal) usted
you (familiar) tu
he/him él
she/her ella
we/us nosotros
you (plural) ustedes
they/them ellos (all males or mixed gender); ellas (all females)
Mr., sir señor
Mrs., madam señora
miss, young lady señorita
wife esposa
husband esposo
friend amigo (male); amiga (female)
sweetheart novio (male); novia (female)
son; daughter hijo; hija
brother; sister hermano; hermana
father; mother padre; madre
grandfather; grandmother abuelo; abuela
TRANSPORTATION
Where is . . . ? ¿Dónde está . . . ?
How far is it to . . . ? ¿A cuánto está . . . ?
from . . . to . . . de . . . a . . .
How many blocks? ¿Cuántas cuadras?
Where (Which) is the way to . . . ? ¿Dónde está el camino a . . . ?
the bus station la terminal de autobuses
the bus stop la parada de autobuses
Where is this bus going? ¿Adónde va este autobús?
the taxi stand la parada de taxis
the train station la estación de ferrocarril
the boat el barco
the launch lancha; tiburonera
the dock el muelle
the airport el aeropuerto
I’d like a ticket to . . . Quisiera un boleto a . . .
first (second) class primera (segunda) clase
roundtrip ida y vuelta
reservation reservación
baggage equipaje
Stop here, please. Pare aquí, por favor.
the entrance la entrada
the exit la salida
the ticket office la oficina de boletos
(very) near; far (muy) cerca; lejos
to; toward a
by; through por
from de
the right la derecha
the left la izquierda
straight ahead derecho; directo
in front en frente
beside al lado
behind atrás
the corner la esquina
the stoplight la semáforo
a turn una vuelta
right here aquí
somewhere around here por acá
right there allí
somewhere around there por allá
road el camino
street; boulevard calle; bulevar
block la cuadra
highway carretera
kilometer kilómetro
bridge; toll puente; cuota
address dirección
north; south norte; sur
east; west oriente (este); poniente (oeste)
FOOD
I’m hungry. Tengo hambre.
I’m thirsty. Tengo sed.
menu carta; menú
order orden
glass vaso
fork tenedor
knife cuchillo
spoon cuchara
napkin servilleta
soft drink refresco
coffee café
tea té
drinking water agua pura; agua potable
bottled carbonated water agua mineral
bottled uncarbonated water agua sin gas
beer cerveza
wine vino
milk leche
juice jugo
cream crema
sugar azúcar
cheese queso
snack antojo; botana
breakfast desayuno
lunch almuerzo
daily lunch special comida corrida (or el menú del día depending on region)
dinner comida (often eaten in late afternoon); cena (a late-night snack)
the check la cuenta
eggs huevos
bread pan
salad ensalada
fruit fruta
mango mango
watermelon sandía
papaya papaya
banana plátano
apple manzana
orange naranja
lime limón
fish pescado
shellfish mariscos
shrimp camarones
meat (without) (sin) carne
chicken pollo
pork puerco
beef; steak res; bistec
bacon; ham tocino; jamón
fried frito
roasted asada
barbecue; barbecued barbacoa; al carbon
ACCOMMODATIONS
hotel hotel
Is there a room? ¿Hay cuarto?
May I (may we) see it? ¿Puedo (podemos) verlo?
What is the rate? ¿Cuál es el precio?
Is that your best rate? ¿Es su mejor precio?
Is there something cheaper? ¿Hay algo más económico?
a single room un cuarto sencillo
a double room un cuarto doble
double bed cama matrimonial
twin beds camas gemelas
with private bath con baño
hot water agua caliente
shower ducha
towels toallas
soap jabón
toilet paper papel higiénico
blanket frazada; manta
sheets sábanas
air-conditioned aire acondicionado
fan abanico; ventilador
key llave
manager gerente
SHOPPING
money dinero
money-exchange bureau casa de cambio
I would like to exchange traveler’s checks. Quisiera cambiar cheques de viajero.
What is the exchange rate? ¿Cuál es el tipo de cambio?
How much is the commission? ¿Cuánto cuesta la comisión?
Do you accept credit cards? ¿Aceptan tarjetas de crédito?
money order giro
How much does it cost? ¿Cuánto cuesta?
What is your final price? ¿Cuál es su último precio?
expensive caro
cheap barato; económico
more más
less menos
a little un poco
too much demasiado
HEALTH
Help me please. Ayúdeme por favor.
I am ill. Estoy enfermo.
Call a doctor. Llame un doctor.
Take me to . . . Lléveme a . . .
hospital hospital; sanatorio
drugstore farmacia
pain dolor
fever fiebre
headache dolor de cabeza
stomach ache dolor de estómago
burn quemadura
cramp calambre
nausea náusea
vomiting vomitar
medicine medicina
antibiotic antibiótico
pill; tablet pastilla
aspirin aspirina
ointment; cream pomada; crema
bandage venda
cotton algodón
sanitary napkins use brand name, e.g., Kotex
birth control pills pastillas anticonceptivas
contraceptive foam espuma anticonceptiva
condoms preservativos; condones
toothbrush cepilla dental
dental floss hilo dental
toothpaste crema dental
dentist dentista
toothache dolor de muelas
POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICATIONS
long-distance telephone teléfono larga distancia
I would like to call . . . Quisiera llamar a . . .
collect por cobrar
station to station a quien contesta
person to person persona a persona
credit card tarjeta de crédito
post office correo
general delivery lista de correo
letter carta
stamp estampilla, timbre
postcard tarjeta
aerogram aerograma
air mail correo aereo
registered registrado
money order giro
package; box paquete; caja
string; tape cuerda; cinta
AT THE BORDER
border frontera
customs aduana
immigration migración
tourist card tarjeta de turista
inspection inspección; revisión
passport pasaporte
profession profesión
marital status estado civil
single soltero
married; divorced casado; divorciado
widowed viudado
insurance seguros
title título
driver’s license licencia de manejar
AT THE GAS STATION
gas station gasolinera
gasoline gasolina
unleaded sin plomo
full, please lleno, por favor
tire llanta
tire repair shop vulcanizadora
air aire
water agua
oil (change) aceite (cambio)
grease grasa
My . . . doesn’t work. Mi . . . no sirve.
battery batería
radiator radiador
alternator alternador
generator generador
tow truck grúa
repair shop taller mecánico
tune-up afinación
auto parts store refaccionería
VERBS
Verbs are the key to getting along in Spanish. They employ mostly predictable forms and come in three classes, which end in ar, er, and ir, respectively:
to buy comprar
I buy, you (he, she, it) buys compro, compra
we buy, you (they) buy compramos, compran
to eat comer
I eat, you (he, she, it) eats como, come
we eat, you (they) eat comemos, comen
to climb subir
I climb, you (he, she, it) climbs subo, sube
we climb, you (they) climb subimos, suben
Here are more (with irregularities indicated):
to do or make hacer (regular except for hago, I do or make)
to go ir (very irregular: voy, va, vamos, van)
to go (walk) andar
to love amar
to work trabajar
to want desear, querer
to need necesitar
to read leer
to write escribir
to repair reparar
to stop parar
to get off (the bus) bajar
to arrive llegar
to stay (remain) quedar
to stay (lodge) hospedar
to leave salir (regular except for salgo, I leave)
to look at mirar
to look for buscar
to give dar (regular except for doy, I give)
to carry llevar
to have tener (irregular but important: tengo, tiene, tenemos, tienen)
to come venir (similarly irregular: vengo, viene, venimos, vienen)
Spanish has two forms of “to be”:
to be estar (regular except for estoy, I am)
to be ser (very irregular: soy, es, somos, son)
Use estar when speaking of location or a temporary state of being: “I am at home.” “Estoy en casa.” “I’m sick.” “Estoy enfermo.” Use ser for a permanent state of being: “I am a doctor.” “Soy doctora.”
NUMBERS
zero cero
one uno
two dos
three tres
four cuatro
five cinco
six seis
seven siete
eight ocho
nine nueve
10 diez
11 once
12 doce
13 trece
14 catorce
15 quince
16 dieciseis
17 diecisiete
18 dieciocho
19 diecinueve
20 veinte
21 veinte y uno or veintiuno
30 treinta
40 cuarenta
50 cincuenta
60 sesenta
70 setenta
80 ochenta
90 noventa
100 ciento
101 ciento y uno or cientiuno
200 doscientos
500 quinientos
1,000 mil
10,000 diez mil
100,000 cien mil
1,000,000 millón
one half medio
one third un tercio
one fourth un cuarto
TIME
What time is it? ¿Qué hora es?
It’s one o’clock. Es la una.
It’s three in the afternoon. Son las tres de la tarde.
It’s 4 a.m. Son las cuatro de la mañana.
six-thirty seis y media
a quarter till eleven un cuarto para las once
a quarter past five las cinco y cuarto
an hour una hora
DAYS AND MONTHS
Monday lunes
Tuesday martes
Wednesday miércoles
Thursday jueves
Friday viernes
Saturday sábado
Sunday domingo
today hoy
tomorrow mañana
yesterday ayer
January enero
February febrero
March marzo
April abril
May mayo
June junio
July julio
August agosto
September septiembre
October octubre
November noviembre
December diciembre
a week una semana
a month un mes
after después
before antes
(Courtesy of Bruce Whipperman, author of Moon Pacific Mexico.)
Suggested Reading
TRAVELOGUES
Berger, Bruce. Almost an Island: Travels in Baja California. Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1998. With his rich and descriptive writing, Berger recounts his three decades spent traveling in Baja California.
Hazard, Ann. Agave Sunsets: Treasured Tales of Baja. San Diego: Sunbelt Publications, 2002. This collection of spirited Baja tales will introduce you to colorful characters and erase barriers between Mexican and gringo cultures.
Hill, Herman, and Silliman, Roger. Baja’s Hidden Gold: Treasure Along the Mission Trail, 2nd ed. Oaxaca: Carpe Diem Publishing, 2014. A collection of the stories of Herman Hill, a prospector, dreamer, and adventurer seeking gold in Baja California.
Mackintosh, Graham. Into a Desert Place. New York: W.W. Norton & Co., 1995. One of the most widely read Baja books chronicling the journey of a British self-described “couch potato” who walks the entire coastline of the Baja peninsula.
Steinbeck, John. The Log from the Sea of Cortez. New York: Penguin USA, Viking, 1951. This classic book recounts Steinbeck’s journey by boat into the Sea of Cortez with marine biologist Ed Ricketts.
HISTORY AND CULTURE
Crosby, Harry W. The Cave Paintings of Baja California: Discovering the Great Murals of an Unknown People. San Diego: Sunbelt Publications, 1998. Crosby is viewed as the ultimate authority on the rock art of Baja California, and this book provides detailed descriptions and color photographs of most of the sites.
Kier, David. Baja California Land of Missions. El Cajon, CA: M&E Books, 2016. This comprehensive guide covering the history and information about all of the Spanish missions in Baja California is an invaluable tool for any Baja traveler.
Niemann, Greg. Baja Legends. San Diego: Sunbelt Publications, 2002. The useful book explains some of the most prominent Baja establishments, personalities, and legends region by region.
NATURAL HISTORY AND FIELD GUIDES
Hupp, Betty, and Malone, Marilyn. The Edge of the Sea of Cortez. Tucson: Operculum, LLC, 2008. For beachcombers who love exploring tidepools, this guide will help with identifying shells, sea creatures, and birds found along the shore.
Rebman, Jon, and Roberts, Norman C. Baja California Plant Field Guide, 3rd ed. San Diego: Sunbelt Publications, 2012. This must-have field guide is the definitive book for identifying Baja’s diverse flora.
Swartz, Steven L. Lagoon Time: A Guide to Gray Whales and the Natural History of San Ignacio Lagoon. San Diego: Sunbelt Publications, 2014. This firsthand account looks into the natural history of Laguna San Ignacio and provides a guide to gray whale behavior.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Church, Mike and Terry. Traveler’s Guide to Camping Mexico’s Baja, 5th ed. Rolling Homes Press, 2012. This indispensible guide gives all of the most accurate information for all of the campsites and RV parks on the peninsula.
Parise, Mike. The Surfer’s Guide to Baja. Surf Press Publishers, 2012. This guide gives detailed directions and maps to the best surf spots along the peninsula.
Internet Resources
Many establishments in Baja now have websites or at least Facebook pages where you can find information about hours and location. For general Baja travel, there are a number of online forums and even Facebook groups, but always double-check the information that you find as it’s not always accurate. The websites below have reliable and accurate information about travel in Baja.
Baja.com
www.baja.com
This website covers information about Baja and also offers vacation rentals.
Baja California Sur State Tourism
www.visitbajasur.travel
The state tourism website for Baja California Sur gives specific and helpful information about hotels, sights, and activities for each region.
Baja Insider
www.bajainsider.com
This comprehensive website covers valuable information for Baja residents and visitors.
Discover Baja
www.discoverbaja.com
Not only do they offer Mexican auto insurance, but this website is a wealth of information about travel regulations and the best places to go and things to do in Baja.
INAH
http://inah.gob.mx
INAH is responsible for protecting Baja’s cultural sites like rock art and the Spanish missions.
INM
www.gob.mx
The Mexican migration website, where non-Mexican citizens can obtain FMM tourist permits online.
Los Cabos Tourism
http://visitloscabos.travel
The Los Cabos tourism website has helpful information about hotels and events.
Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)
https://step.state.gov
The U.S. Department of State runs the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) as a free service that allows U.S. citizens traveling abroad to enroll their trip with the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate.
U.S. Customs and Border Protection
www.cbp.gov
Has customs information about items allowed back into the United States from Mexico.
U.S. Embassy
https://mx.usembassy.gov
The website for the U.S. embassy in Mexico City has information about services for U.S. citizens.
ONLINE NEWSLETTERS
There are a few Baja websites that send out regular online newsletters with helpful travel information. Discover Baja (www.discoverbaja.com) and Baja.com (www.baja.com) offer newsletters that travelers can sign up for to receive monthly emails with quality articles about all areas of Baja.
For events and news for specific regions, The Baja Western Onion (bajawesternonion.com) focuses on Todos Santos and the West Cape; The Ventana View (www.theventanaview.wordpress.com) promotes events and news around La Ventana; and The Baja Pony Express (www.thebajaponyexpress.com) covers updates about the East Cape area.
Contents
Cover Page
Title Page
Contents
Index
List of Maps
Discover Los Cabos
Los Cabos
La Paz
The East Cape and the Sierra de la Laguna
Todos Santos and the West Cape
Background
Essentials
Resources
Copyright
Contents
Cover Page
Contents
Title Page
List of Maps
Front Map
Cape Region: 2
Los Cabos: 3
Discover Los Cabos
chapter divisions map: 8
Los Cabos
Cabo San Lucas: 22–23
San José del Cabo: 52–53
Puerto Los Cabos: 55
La Paz
La Paz and Vicinity: 74
La Paz: 76
Downtown La Paz: 78–79
Beaches and Islands Near La Paz: 80
Isla Espíritu Santo, Isla Partida, and Los Islotes: 83
Bahía de la Ventana: 102
La Ventana and El Sargento: 103
The East Cape and the Sierra de la Laguna
The East Cape and the Sierra de la Laguna: 110
Bahía de las Palmas and Vicinity: 120
Los Barriles: 121
Sierra de la Laguna and Vicinity: 130
Miraflores to Santiago: 133
Sierra de la Laguna Hiking Trails: 137
Todos Santos and the West Cape
Todos Santos and the West Cape: 146
Todos Santos: 148
Todos Santos Detail: 149
El Pescadero: 166
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fresh-caught fish
Background
The Landscape
GEOGRAPHY
CLIMATE
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
PLANTS
ANIMALS
History
INDIGENOUS HISTORY
SPANISH EXPLORATION
INDEPENDENCE FROM SPAIN
THE MEXICAN-AMERICAN WAR
THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION
STATEHOOD
Government and Economy
ORGANIZATION
POLITICAL SYSTEM
ECONOMY
People and Culture
RELIGION
LANGUAGE
VISUAL ARTS
MUSIC
DANCE
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Playa Pescadero in El Pescadero.
The Landscape
GEOGRAPHY
The entire Baja peninsula is 1,300 kilometers (806 mi.) long, from Tijuana in the north to Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip. As the northwestern region of Mexico, the Baja peninsula is separated from mainland Mexico by the Golfo de California (Gulf of California), more commonly referred to as the Mar de Cortés (Sea of Cortez). The Pacific Ocean borders the western side of the Baja peninsula.
There are four main desert areas that make up 65 percent of the peninsula—the San Felipe Desert, the Central Coast Desert, the Vizcaíno Desert, and the Magdalena Plain Desert. There are 23 mountain ranges on the peninsula with the highest peak being Picacho del Diablo at 3,095 meters (10,154 ft.) in the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir.
CLIMATE
While the climate varies by region and season, what attracts most travelers to Baja California is the warm, sunny weather. The southern part of the peninsula is the warmest, drawing snowbirds in the winter. Summers in Baja Sur can be extremely hot and humid, especially along the Sea of Cortez. The Pacific side of the peninsula generally has much cooler temperatures. In the late summer and early fall, tropical storms (called chubascos) and hurricanes can hit southern Baja, bringing high winds and heavy rains.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Most of the Baja peninsula remains undeveloped due to the desert and mountain terrain and a lack of freshwater. But recent years have seen rapid growth in the development around the Los Cabos area for tourism as well as real estate. Cabo Pulmo has often been a place of contention between developers and environmentalists over the years. So far, large developments have been fought off by those wanting to protect the natural coral reef. In recent years, the danger of mining developments in the Sierra de la Laguna have threatened to contaminate the springs of the mountain range providing water to many of the towns on the East Cape.
PLANTS
There are over 4,000 plant species and subspecies on the peninsula with over 600 species endemic to Baja. For the most descriptive information on the flora of Baja California, pick up a copy of the Baja California Plant Field Guide, by Jon P. Rebman and Norman C. Roberts. The animal life is just as diverse with over 100 types of mammals inhabiting the peninsula, two dozen of which are considered to be endemic.
Cacti
There are 120 species of cactus in Baja, and many of them flower after rains, which can paint the desert with a vibrant splash of color for a few weeks. The most dominant, and perhaps most recognizable, cactus of the Baja landscape is the cardón or elephant cactus. It’s also the largest cactus and can reach heights of up to 20 meters (65 ft.), and can weigh up to 10 tons. Some of the older plants are believed to be over 200 years old. Other common types of cacti found on the peninsula include varieties of the barrel cactus, cholla, and nopal (prickly pear). The nopal is an edible cactus and commonly found on menus around the region.
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cactus in bloom
Agaves
There are over 20 species of agave growing on the peninsula. Many are edible, so the agaves have always been a source of food, drink, and fiber. Agaves live many decades before they flower, earning them the name “century plant” (although flowering actually happens between years 30 and 60). The flower stalk emerges from the cluster of basal stems.
Trees
Trees found along the peninsula are often very specific to their regions. There are seven different varieties of palm trees in the oases farther south on the peninsula. This includes the date palm, which was brought over from Europe by the Jesuit missionaries to be cultivated.
ANIMALS
Land Mammals
There are over 100 types of mammals on the peninsula, with over 20 endemic species. Coyotes, mountain lions, foxes, bobcats, and raccoons are fairly prevalent. The desert bighorn sheep and the endangered peninsular pronghorn (berrendo) are among the endangered species on the peninsula.
Marine Mammals
Blue whales, pilot whales, humpback whales, and orca can all be spotted along the peninsula. Dolphins are prolific in the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez. California sea lions can be found living in colonies around islands in the Sea of Cortez.
Fish
To the delight of anglers and divers, thousands of species of fish ply the waters of both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. Yellowtail, marlin, amberjack, corvina, roosterfish, dorado, wahoo, bluefin tuna, halibut, snapper, and sea bass are just some of the species that lure anglers who come to fish the prolific waters. There are a number of tropical fish, eels and rays, including the Pacific manta rays that can have wingspans of up to seven meters (23 ft.).
Shellfish including shrimp, clams, oysters, mussels, scallops, and lobster are all found in large numbers, making them popular dishes at restaurants and food carts. There are over 60 types of sharks around the peninsula, including the whale shark, which can be found increasingly in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez in areas like La Paz.
Birds
With over 400 species of birds, Baja can be a birders’ paradise. Coastal birds such as pelicans, blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, egrets, and gulls are commonly spotted. Inland lakes and streams are home to freshwater birds such as ducks, geese, herons, sandpipers, teal, and storks. In the desert, falcons, hawks, owls, hummingbirds, sparrows, roadrunners, and turkey vultures can be sighted. Mountain birds like eagles, red-tailed hawks, pheasant, woodpeckers, and wren are common to the Sierras.
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a donkey next to a cardón cactus
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pelicans
Reptiles and Amphibians
SEA TURTLES
There are five types of sea turtles found in Baja: the leatherback, green, hawksbill, western ridley, and loggerhead. All are endangered, and it’s illegal to hunt them or their eggs. There are a number of conservation groups in Baja Sur helping to protect the sea turtles and promote their reproduction.
SNAKES
Of the 35 snakes (serpientes) on the peninsula, about half are nonvenomous (culebras), and the other have are poisonous (víboras). There are 18 species of rattlesnakes, including the Baja California rattler, red diamondback, and western diamondback.
History
INDIGENOUS HISTORY
Historians agree that there have been people living on the Baja California peninsula for over 11,000 years. In the north were several groups belonging to the Yuman language family: the Kiliwa, Paipai, Kumiai, Cucupá, and Quechan. The Cochimí inhabited the central and southern part of the peninsula. The groups were adaptive to their environments and led mostly hunter-gatherer lifestyles. The Guachimis came from the north and were the people who created most of the impressive Sierra de la Guadalupe cave paintings.
SPANISH EXPLORATION
California existed as a myth for Europeans long before it was finally discovered by explorers in the early 16th century. Following Hernán Cortés’ conquest of mainland Mexico, he sent three ships to explore Baja California in 1532. The peninsula was believed to be an island at this time. The ships of that first expedition disappeared without a trace. Cortés sent a follow-up expedition in 1533 that landed in La Paz, but most of the men in the expedition were killed by the indigenous people. In 1539, another expedition sponsored by Cortés was led by Captain Francisco de Ulloa and explored the entire perimeter of the Sea of Cortez as well as the Pacific Coast up to Isla Cedros. It was Ulloa who is credited with naming the Mar de Cortés.
The Mission Era
The Jesuits were the first missionaries to inhabit the peninsula. Padre Juan Maria Salvatierra established the first mission in all of Alta Baja California at Loreto in 1697. The Franciscans and the Dominicans came after the Jesuits to settle the peninsula. In total, there were 27 missions as well as supporting visitas (visiting stations) founded on Baja. Uprisings by the indigenous people were very common, the most famous being the Pericú rebellion in 1734, which ended in extensive damage, the destruction of four missions, and the death of two padres. The history of each mission and the GPS points of the current sites (or ruins) can be found in David Kier’s book, Baja California Land of Missions.
INDEPENDENCE FROM SPAIN
At the end of the 18th century, the Age of Enlightenment and liberal revolutions sparked the movement for independence from Spain. The revolt against the Spanish crown began on September 16, 1810, when Miguel Hidalgo shouted the Grito de Dolores, the cry for revolution, from the mainland city of Dolores, Guanajuato. September 16 is still considered Mexicans’ independence day, and the reigning president reenacts the grito every year on the evening of September 15. It took more than a decade, but Mexico officially gained its freedom from Spain in 1821 after the Mexican War of Independence.
THE MEXICAN-AMERICAN WAR
The Mexican-American War (1846-1848) had a major impact on Baja California. President James K. Polk believed the United States had a “manifest destiny” to spread across the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. In 1844 Polk made an offer to Mexico to purchase the lands between the Nueces River and Rio Grande (in what is now Texas). The offer was rejected and U.S. forces invaded Mexico, starting a string of battles that would lead to the Mexican-American War and end with Mexico losing one-third of its territory. In the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo ending the war, Mexico gave into the United States and received US$15 million for the land that is now California, Nevada, Utah, and parts of Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Wyoming. In the original draft of the treaty, Baja California was included in the land to be sold to the United States, but it was eventually left to Mexico because of its proximity to Sonora.
THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION
Because of Baja’s remote location in relation to the rest of Mexico, the peninsula was somewhat insulated from political turmoil that took place in Mexico in the 19th century. But Baja California played an important part in the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920) which radically changed government and culture in Mexico. The revolution set out to end the dictatorship of President Porfirio Díaz, called for democracy, and demanded the return of lands taken unfairly from Mexican villages. Led by Francisco Madero and aided by Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata, rebel armies of workers and peasants rose up to fight against Díaz and his dictatorship. Baja California played a key role in the revolution in the Magonista Rebellion of 1911. This early uprising was organized by the Partido Liberal Mexicano (PLM) against the presidency of dictator Porfirio Díaz. The rebel army took control of both Mexicali and Tijuana. The success of the uprising encouraged rebel troops in other regions to join in the fight of the revolution.
Spanish Missions
• Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó (1697-1829)
• San Francisco Javier Biaundó (1699-1817)
• San Juan Bautista de Malibat (Ligüí) (1705-1721)
• Santa Rosalía de Mulegé (1705-1828)
• San José de Comondú (1708-1827)
• La Purísima Concepción de Cadegomó (1720-1822)
• Nuestra Señora del Pilar de la Paz Airapí (1720-1840)
• Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Huasinapí (1720-1795)
• Nuestra Señora de los Dolores Apaté (1721-1768)
• Santiago el Apóstol Aiñiní (1724-1795)
• San Ignacio de Kadakaamán (1728-1840)
• San Jose del Cabo Añuítí (1730-1748 and 1768-1840)
• Santa Rosa de las Palmas (Todos Santos) (1733-1748)
• San Luis Gonzaga Chiryaqui (1737-1768)
• Santa Gertrudis (1752-1822)
• San Francisco de Borja Adac (1762-1818)
• Santa María de los Ángeles (1766-1774)
• San Fernando de Velicatá (1769-1825)
• Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Viñadaco (1774-1829)
• Santo Domingo (1775-1839)
• San Vicente Ferrer (1780-1833)
• San Miguel Arcángel (1787-1834)
• Santo Tomás de Aquino (1791-1849)
• San Pedro Mártir de Verona (1794-1811)
• Santa Catalina Virgen y Mártir (1797-1839)
• El Descanso (San Miguel la Nueva) (1810-1834)
• Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (1834-1840)
The Mexican Constitution of 1917 is largely looked upon as the end of the Mexican Revolution even though a few more years of instability followed. The Constitution returned lands to the peasants in the form of cooperatively owned ejidos, which are still in effect today.
STATEHOOD
Northern Baja California became the 29th state of Mexico in 1952. With its sparse fishing villages and small towns, Baja California Sur remained a territory, unable to meet the population requirements to become a Mexican state. When the Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico 1) was finally completed in 1974, it opened up commerce and tourism to the southern part of the peninsula and Baja California Sur became a state later that year.
Government and Economy
ORGANIZATION
The capital of Baja California Sur is La Paz. There are five municipalities: La Paz, Los Cabos, Mulegé, Loreto, and Comondú. Baja California Sur was officially accepted as a state of Mexico in 1974 after the Transpeninsular Highway was completed.
POLITICAL SYSTEM
There are 31 states in Mexico that form a representative democracy. There are three branches to the government: executive, legislative, and judicial. Mexican presidents serve a six-year term with no reelection. The legislature is comprised of two houses, the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies.
The three main political parties in Mexico are: Partido Acción Nacional (PAN), Mexico’s conservative political party; Partido Revolucionario Institucional (PRI), Mexico’s centrist political party; and Partido de la Revolución Democrática (PRD), Mexico’s leftist political party.
ECONOMY
Tourism is one of the driving factors in Baja’s economy. Regions such as Los Cabos heavily rely on tourism from the United States and Canada. Baja’s other industries include fishing, agriculture, and manufacturing at maquiladoras in the northern border regions. The North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) entered into effect in 1994 and opened the door for large car and electronics manufacturers to develop factories in northern Baja and easily import the items produced into the United States. Because of the close ties with the United States, the economy of Baja California is closely tied with that of its northern neighbor.
Annual Festivals and Holidays
January
• New Year’s Day, January 1, is a national holiday.
• Día de los Reyes (Day of the Kings), January 6, is a Catholic holiday honoring the three kings who brought gifts to baby Jesus. The day is celebrated with a round cake called a rosca de reyes inside which is hidden a plastic figurine of baby Jesus. Whoever receives the baby Jesus in their piece of cake has to make tamales for friends and family on Día de la Candelaria.
February
• Día de la Candelaria, February 2, is a religious holiday celebrating the Virgen of La Candelaria. Whoever received the figurine of baby Jesus on Día de los Reyes traditionally hosts a tamale party for friends and family.
• Constitution Day, February 5, is a national holiday.
March
• Birthday of Benito Juárez, March 21, is a national holiday.
April
• Semana Santa (Holy Week) is the week before Easter and a popular time for Mexican nationals to take their vacation.
• National Children’s Day, April 30, is an observed holiday.
May
• Labor Day, May 1, is a national holiday.
September
• Mexican Independence Day, September 16, is a national holiday celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
November
• Día de los Muertos, November 1-2, is All Saints’ Day, celebrating those who have passed away.
• Revolution Day, November 20, is a national holiday.
December
• Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe), December 12, is a feast day for this patron saint.
• Las Posadas, December 16-January 6, are traditionally religious processions reenacting Mary and Joseph trying to find accommodations before the birth of Jesus. Today, they have become a time for holiday parties.
• Navidad (Christmas Day), December 25, is a national holiday.
Economic inequality is a large problem in Mexico. The whole Baja California peninsula is in the higher wage zone for the country, but the minimum is still low, starting at US$5 per day for unskilled workers.
People and Culture
The population of the Baja peninsula is around four million, with most inhabitants living in the northern state of Baja California, and more specifically in the cities of Tijuana and Mexicali. Most of the rest of the peninsula remains sparsely populated. There are very few true indigenous people left on the peninsula today, and most Baja residents are a mix of Spanish and Indian cultures as well as descendants from Europe and Asia. In more recent decades, the peninsula is home to a growing number of U.S. and Canadian retiree expats.
RELIGION
The Spanish missionaries first brought Catholicism to the peninsula, and it remains the dominant religion. Catholic holidays hold the same importance (or more) than secular national holidays. Missions and churches are prevalent everywhere on the peninsula, and although church and state are separate, Catholicism plays a large part in Mexican culture. One of the most important figures in Mexican Catholicism is the Virgin of Guadalupe, or Our Lady of Guadalupe, a title for the Virgin Mary associated with an apparition at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City. Representations of the Virgin of Guadalupe are prevalent throughout the peninsula.
LANGUAGE
Latin American Spanish is the primary language spoken in Baja California. Mexicans who work in the tourism industry in large cities do speak at least some English. All travelers heading to Baja should learn at least a few basic greetings and phrases, which will go a long way in providing a better travel experience.
VISUAL ARTS
Baja California Sur has a lively art scene in cities like San José del Cabo and Todos Santos where the expat community has attracted foreign and local artists who have open galleries.
MUSIC
Mexico has a vibrant tradition of music. Mariachi music is probably the first thing that comes to mind for most people, and mariachi groups can be found throughout the peninsula, especially in the larger, more touristy towns. The ensemble usually consists of a trumpet, violin, guitar, and vihuela (five-string guitar), and performers are distinguished by their silver-studded charro suits. Another popular type of music in Baja is Norteño. Norteño music is mostly easily identified for its use of the accordion and polka-like sound. European migrants brought the accordion, along with the waltz and polka, to northern Mexico (hence the designation Norteño) in the late 19th century.
DANCE
The folk dancing of Mexico, the ballet folklórico, can be seen in various places along the peninsula. The highly choreographed dance includes both men and women and is characterized by lively music and bold movements. The women wear colorful traditional Mexican dresses with ruffled skirts they hold while they dance which are an integral part of the spectacle.
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sandy beach
Los Cabos
HIGHLIGHTS
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Cabo San Lucas
SIGHTS
BEACHES
SPORTS AND RECREATION
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
SHOPPING
FOOD
ACCOMMODATIONS
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
TRANSPORTATION
The Corridor
S BEACHES
SPORTS AND RECREATION
NIGHTLIFE
SHOPPING
FOOD
ACCOMMODATIONS
TRANSPORTATION
San José del Cabo
SIGHTS
BEACHES
SPORTS AND RECREATION
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
SHOPPING
FOOD
ACCOMMODATIONS
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
TRANSPORTATION
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Historic Art District in San José del Cabo.
The iconic rock archway El Arco at the tip of the peninsula marks land’s end. This is Los Cabos, the most-recognized destination in Baja.
Los Cabos refers to the region comprising the two cities of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, and the corridor that connects them. This is a Baja completely different from the rest of the peninsula. Yachts fill the marinas and all-inclusive mega-resorts with thousands of rooms line the beaches. Spring breakers flock here for the beach scene and nightlife. Dance clubs and bars are busy until the wee hours of the morning. It’s hard to walk down the street in Cabo San Lucas without being prodded to take a boat trip, book a ziplining tour, or buy a T-shirt about tequila shots.
Luxury, relaxation, and fun are the focus here, and Los Cabos does all three things exceptionally well. On the extravagant and lavish side of Los Cabos, jet-setters and celebrities come to escape and play. Rooms at some of the most exclusive resorts can cost at least US$2,000 a night. Golf courses have sweeping views of the Sea of Cortez, spas specialize in indulgent services, and dining can be world-class.
Love it or hate it, this is one of the most popular spots on the Baja peninsula. Because of its worldwide attention, there’s no stopping the growth in this region. More and more luxury resorts are planned to open. While it’s difficult to call a trip to the area an authentic Mexican experience, it’s hard to deny the unique draw that lures over two million visitors each year.
Highlights
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S El Arco: The signature landmark of Cabo San Lucas is its famous rock archway at the very southern tip of the Baja peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet. Travelers can take a boat out to see it up close (click here).
S Lover’s Beach: Accessible only by boat, Lover’s Beach is a gorgeous sandy beach on the protected Bahía de Cabo San Lucas (click here).
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S Golf: Golfing has never been more spectacular than at the numerous courses in Los Cabos with beautiful ocean views and a margarita waiting at the clubhouse afterward (click here).
S Nightlife: Spring breakers and the young of heart enjoy clubs where the tequila shots never run out and the party goes until early morning (click here).
S Beaches of the Los Cabos Corridor: The stretch between the two towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo is home to some of the most pristine beaches in the area, where visitors enjoy swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling, and just relaxing (click here).
S Plaza Teniente José Antonio Mijares: The plaza is the heart of San José del Cabo, surrounded by art galleries, shops, restaurants, boutique hotels, and the mission (click here).
S San José del Cabo’s Historic Art District: Art galleries abound in the historical downtown area of San José del Cabo. On Thursday evenings November-June they stay open late for the “Gallery Art Walk” (click here).
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Most people visit Cabo to enjoy the beaches and take advantage of the all-inclusive resorts. Some tourists don’t even leave their hotels during their stay. Depending on how long you need to decompress and relax, a long weekend or a week is plenty. It’s easy to explore all of Los Cabos—Cabo San Lucas, the corridor, and San José del Cabo—by staying in any of the three areas. It only takes 40 minutes to drive from downtown Cabo San Lucas to downtown San José del Cabo (a taxi costs about US$40). Staying in Los Cabos, you can also explore surrounding areas like the East Cape or Todos Santos on day trips; budget at least a week in Los Cabos if you’d like to take advantage of this.
Cruise ships coming into the Los Cabos area anchor just out from the marina in Cabo San Lucas and tender passengers to shore (there’s no cruise ship port). The drop-off location for passengers is the marina near Soloman’s Landing restaurant.
Many cruise lines only offer a half day in port at Cabo. Excursion companies are well aware of their time parameters and many plan activities to meet the cruise ship timeline. Some cruise lines offer two days in port at Cabo, which means that passengers have the ability to stay out until 9pm on their first evening in port.
Cabo San Lucas
Cabo San Lucas anchors the region, with a variety of activities, shops, restaurants, nightlife options, and hotels. Its famous El Arco rock archway is the most-photographed landmark in Baja. Water sports and activities are taken to a new extreme here with banana boat rides, parasailing, skydiving, and even camel rides available in addition to the usual diving, snorkeling, fishing, and boating. There are plenty of beaches to enjoy, with Lover’s Beach, accessible only by boat, the most famous.
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Cabo’s marina and downtown are the busy tourist spots, especially when a cruise ship is in town. Nightlife in Cabo is legendary, with large nightclubs and bars living up to stereotypical expectations: tequila shots abound and music and dancing continue until the wee hours of the morning.
The downtown and marina area of Cabo are very walkable. A car or taxi (US$8) is necessary to reach areas such as Playa Solmar and Playa El Médano.
SIGHTS
S El Arco
As the most prominent feature of the entire peninsula, El Arco (also sometimes called La Finisterra for Land’s End) is Cabo’s famous landmark. The natural rock arch dramatically singles out the tip of the peninsula and the point where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez collide. The arch is visible from points along Playa Médano and the corridor, but one of the best ways to experience it is to take a glass-bottom boat out to see it up close. A walk along the marina brings you to a number of companies offering glass-bottom boat trips for US$15. You could also book a private tour with a company like Roger’s (www.rogerstourboatcabomexico.com). Go in the morning when waters are calmer.
Cabo San Lucas Marina
Cabo’s lively marina is conveniently located in downtown and lined with shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels. The marina is a hub for tourist activity with snorkeling and diving tours, fishing charters, and boats out to El Arco and Lover’s Beach departing from here. There’s no cruise ship pier in Cabo, so cruise ships anchor away from land and tender passengers to shore, dropping them off here at the marina. At the north end of the harbor is the Puerto Paraiso Mall, a large shopping center with a movie theater, stores, and restaurants.
Plaza Amelia Wilkes
Visitors looking for some peace and quiet in Cabo San Lucas will find it at Plaza Amelia Wilkes (Lázaro Cárdenas between Calle Cabo San Lucas and Calle Miguel Hidalgo). Set a few blocks up from the tourist area, there’s a gazebo with benches where visitors can sit to relax for a bit. Lining the plaza is a small natural history museum, Museo Cabo San Lucas (tel. 624/105-0661, 10am-3pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-2pm Sat.-Sun., US$1) that covers the history, archaeology, geology, and biodiversity of the region.
BEACHES
S Lover’s Beach
Accessed almost purely by boat, Lover’s Beach is a unique two-sided beach out near El Arco. One side of the beach is lined by the Bahía de Cabo San Lucas where swimmers and snorkelers enjoy the calm waters. The other side faces the Pacific Ocean, where the water is too rough for swimming. This rough side of the beach is affectionately called “Divorce Beach.”
Water taxis leaving from the marina go to Lover’s Beach for US$15 every 45 minutes, granting you the flexibility to return to town whenever you’re ready. There are no services (including bathrooms) or shade at the beach. As one of Cabo’s highlight activities, it can get very crowded, and even more so in the afternoons.
Playa Solmar
The relatively uncrowded Playa Solmar is a beautiful, long beach perfect for taking a walk or sunbathing. Because of its location on the Pacific, the waves and currents here are very strong, making it unsafe for swimming. Many of Cabo’s large hotels are located along Playa Solmar because of the beautiful views and tranquility of the area.
Unless you’re staying at one of the hotels along the beach here, there are no services. Access to the beach is on the road to Hotel Solmar.
Playa El Médano
Buzzing with people and activities, Playa El Médano is one of the only safe swimming beaches in Cabo San Lucas, but don’t expect a relaxing float or beach day at this wild and loud beach. Spring breakers taking shots, families enjoying water sports, and vendors selling jewelry and knickknacks all crowd together here. Any kind of water activity can be booked on this beach, from kayaking to hydroboarding. Beachfront palapa restaurants and bars are close by, including Mango Deck, which anchors the spring break scene. Playa El Médano is the closest beach to town and stretches from the east side of the harbor entrance to Villa del Palmar.
If walking from downtown, walk around the marina to the end and go left at the channel entrance. There’s also access via Av. del Pescador or Camino Hotel Hacienda. There’s no parking lot and street parking can be hard to find, especially on weekends or during spring break, so walking or taking a cab is often the best solution.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
There’s no lack of tour operators in Cabo for a seemingly unlimited number of activities.
Extreme Adventures
Whether you want to mountain bike, hydroboard, fly in a small plane, zipline, or sail, Cabo Adventures (tel. 322/226-8413, www.cabo-adventures.com) can make your activity dreams come true. It has a large booking office in downtown Cabo on Paseo de la Marina and offer discounts when you book more than one activity.
Wild Canyon (tel. 624/144-4433, www.wildcanyon.com.mx) takes tourists outside Cabo to the “Wild Canyon,” where the company has set up a large park with ziplines, ATVing, camel rides, bungee jumping, and even a small zoo.
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Glass-bottom boats take tourists out to see the famous arch.
Diving and Snorkeling
DIVE AND SNORKEL SITES
The Bahía de Cabo San Lucas was designated a protected underwater national marine park in 1973, marking it as an area abundant with sealife. The bay provides relatively calm waters for diving.
Lover’s Beach and Land’s End are the best spots for snorkeling in Cabo San Lucas. You can snorkel off the beach at Lover’s Beach on your own or with a guide. The waters won’t be perfectly calm, but they should be clear enough to spot some tropical fish. Winds will pick up later in the afternoon. For snorkeling off Land’s End, a number of boat and tour operators can take you out to swim with the sea lions and fish near El Arco. Many of the outfitters out of Cabo San Lucas will take snorkelers over to Bahía Chileno and Bahía Santa Maria along the corridor, where the waters are calmer.
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Land’s End arch is one of the most iconic symbols of the peninsula.
Sand Falls is one of Cabo’s most famous and unique dive sites. Close to Lover’s Beach, 30 meters below the surface, is a river of sand that flows between rocks and over the edge of a canyon, creating an unusual sand fall. The sand rivers are not always flowing, and are usually the most active when stormy weather makes the seas more turbulent (the opposite of normal optimal diving conditions). Even if the falls aren’t active, there’s still abundant sealife around the site such as rays, zebra eels, and grouper.
For diving, Land’s End is also a great option. This is a unique site because it allows divers to experience both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez at the same time. Barracuda, tuna, baitfish, and rays can be spotted. The site is also home to a colony of sea lions who love to swim and play with divers. Nearby Pelican Rock is a reef that drops off a deep wall down to 150 meters. There are devil rays, moray eels, porcupine fish, and puffer fish. There are two coral reefs at Neptune’s Finger, which is also home to one of the largest sand falls. Tropical fish, sea turtles, and manta rays can be seen here.
OUTFITTERS
Most hotels and resorts can arrange for a dive or snorkel trip and equipment rental. Morning outings are the most popular as that’s when the seas are calmer and better for diving.
Dive Cabo (tel. 624/157-6327, www.divecabo.com) offers full-day snorkel and dive trips daily. Its small groups are guided by experienced leaders. PADI courses and free 30-minute “scuba refreshers” are provided prior to your dive. Dive Cabo also provides a free underwater photography service so you can take home a memento from your dive. All tours depart from its location at the Cabo San Lucas marina (no hotel pickup).
Aqua Los Cabos (tel. 624/143-9286, www.aqualoscabos.com) hosts snorkel and dive trips around the Los Cabos region and as well as excursions up to Parque Nacional Cabo Pulmo. It has courses and trips for all levels of divers. Tours range from 3-5 hours. Depending on the tour, your trip will depart from the company’s ship in Cabo San Lucas, or else you’ll be picked up from your hotel.
Fishing
Cabo was initially a small fishing village, and sportfishing remains a popular draw for the region today. A number of fishing charters and services in the area will take you out for a day. Marlin, billfish, red snapper, yellowtail, grouper, sierra, and roosterfish are all common in the region. Marlin and sailfish are caught on an optional catch-and-release program in Los Cabos to support local conservation efforts. One species is permitted per boat. Ask ahead to see if your fishing charter includes the fee for cleaning your fish or if you’ll need to pay it yourself when back on shore (US$2-30 depending on the size of the fish). Fishing licenses are required when angling from a boat in Mexico, and fishing charters usually provide one for you, but check ahead of time to make sure it’s included.
A reputable and long-established fishing charter in the region is Pisces Sportfishing (tel. 624/143-1288, toll-free U.S. tel. 877/286-7938, www.piscessportfishing.com). It’s located on the Cabo marina and has a huge fleet with a wide variety of options for charters. Also located at the marina is Picante Sportfishing (tel. 624/143-2474, www.picantesportfishing.com) with a large fleet of yachts and experienced charter captains.
Cabo Fishing and Tours (toll-free U.S. tel. 866/261-3872, www.cabofishings.com) can arrange fishing charters for first-time anglers, families, and serious anglers. It has party packages that start at US$450.
Offering a variety of packages that include lunch, transportation, fishing licenses, and live bait, Sushi Time Sport Fishing (tel. 624/147-5162, www.sushitimefishing.com) has a fleet of six super pangas. All reservations must be made through the website.
Authentic and Affordable Cabo
Anyone familiar with Cabo 30 years ago will tell you about the good old days when the town was nothing but a quaint fishing village surrounded by beautiful beaches. That was before the highway was paved, the commercial airport opened, the cruise ships came to visit, and the endless string of mega-resorts sprung up. But the beauty of the region is undeniable, and there are still ways to enjoy authentic Mexican charm; you just have to work harder to find it.
Stay small and in town. Stay in the downtown areas of San José or Cabo San Lucas, where you’ll find boutique hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, and budget accommodations with plenty of Mexican soul. This will also put you within walking distance of historical plazas, shops, and restaurants—helping you feel more of the local culture. Conveniently enough, these smaller accommodations are often also the more authentic and cheapest choices when compared to the large hotels and all-inclusive resorts.
Take advantage of public beaches. All of the beaches in Los Cabos (and the rest of the peninsula for that matter) are public property. That means that you don’t have to stay at an expensive resort in order to access its beach. The properties are legally required to provide public access to the beach, so even if a resort hasn’t allowed for access along the side of the hotel, most will let you go through the resort to get to the beach.
Get off the beaten path. Get out of the heavy tourist areas to eat at more authentic restaurants and pay lower prices. Don’t be afraid to ask the locals for their favorite places to eat. Prices decrease significantly when you eat outside the tourist areas.
Avoid peak hours. The marina and downtown area of Cabo San Lucas become mayhem during the day when cruise ship passengers are on shore. The area becomes much more relaxed after 5pm when they’re back on the ship.
Get out of town. Day trips to explore the peninsula will give you a less-touristy experience (click here). Quaint colonial towns, vast deserted beaches, cascading waterfalls, natural hot springs, and premier coral reef diving are all just an hour or so away.
Boating
Cabo Sails (tel. 624/111-3900, www.cabosails.com) is a sailing charter company specializing in private sailboat charters that can accommodate 2-20 guests. It also offers snorkeling, whale-watching, and sunset tours. Another option for sailing and boating is Cabo Sailing Ocean Adventures (toll-free U.S. tel. 800/209-1669, www.cabosailing.com). From sunset cruises to whale-watching to snorkel tours, it can arrange for private or group excursions.
In addition to the usual whale-watching and snorkeling trips, Pez Gato (tel. 624/143-3797, U.S. tel. 619/446-6339, www.pezgato.com) also offers sunset cruises like the “jazz and wine cruise” and a “fiesta dinner cruise” with open bar.
Whale-Watching
Whale-watching is a popular activity in Cabo as visitors have the opportunity to see humpbacks, blue whales, fin whales, sperm whales, and dolphins.
Whale Watch Cabo (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/105-9336, www.whalewatchcabo.com) takes people out in smaller groups (10-12 people), and lets you get closer to the whales. The guides are marine biologists. Customers can choose from either Zodiac-style or covered boats. The 2.5-hour tours depart three times a day from December 15-April 15, and start at US$89 for adults.
Cabo Trek (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/143-6242, www.cabodivetrek.com) also leads 2.5-hour whale-watching tours, starting at US$85 for adults and offered three times daily from December 15-April 15. Multi-day trips to visit the gray whales in Bahía Magdalena are also available.
S Golf
Several world-class courses in Cabo attract golfers from all over the world. The courses wind through beautiful desert and mountain terrain with stunning ocean views. November-May is ideal for golfing because the temperatures are mild and there’s very little rain. Summer months can be too hot and bring tropical storms but, given this, prices are discounted and budget golfers are lured to the region during this time. Greens fees can be around US$300 during peak time. Teeing off during twilight hours costs close to half the regular price.
The Cabo San Lucas Country Club (tel. 624/143-4654, www.cabocountry.com) features a Dye-designed 18-hole golf course. Set among cacti and bougainvillea, this is the only golf course in the area that has views of Cabo’s famous El Arco.
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There are plenty of options for souvenir shopping in Cabo San Lucas.
For an exclusive golfing experience, Diamante (tel. 624/172-5811, www.diamantecabosanlucas.com) offers two courses. The Dunes Course meanders through untouched sand dunes and was ranked 38th in Golf Magazine’s Top 100 Courses in the World. The new El Cardonal course was designed by Tiger Woods and offers long-range views of the Pacific Ocean.
With a stunning setting, Quivira Golf Club (toll-free U.S. tel. 800/990-8250, www.quiviragolfclub.com) has dramatic ocean views set among granite cliffs and sand dunes.
Horseback and Camel Rides
It’s possible to do both horseback riding and camel riding on the beach in Cabo. If you want to go horseback riding and get off the beaten path, Cuadra San Francisco (Mexico 1, Km 19.5, tel. 624/144-0160, www.loscaboshorses.com) is a world-class equestrian center where travelers can go for longer horseback rides along the beach as well as onto the trails of nearby hills and canyons. It can accommodate riders of all levels. Camel riding is offered through a couple of tour companies in the region like Cabo Adventures (tel. 322/226-8413, www.cabo-adventures.com) and Wild Canyon (tel. 624/144-4433, www.wildcanyon.com.mx).
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
S Nightlife
The unofficial Cabo spring break headquarters is Mango Deck (tel. 624/144-4919 or 624/143-0901, www.mangodeckcabo.com, 7am-11pm daily), the happening place on Playa Médano for entertainment and drinks. Get there early in the day to grab a deck chair and listen to the emcee, who will guide you through a day’s worth of entertainment and contests. When you’re thirsty, there are two-for-one drink specials, or flag down “Big Johnson,” the tequila man with a holster full of tequila and shot glasses. Mango Deck serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in case you need to soak up some of the alcohol. Also on Playa Médano is beach club Blue Marlin Ibiza (tel. 624/145-7800, www.bluemarlinibizaloscabos.com, 10am-midnight daily), formerly Nikki Beach Club, where the party takes place all day long around the pool and outdoor bar. Spring breakers will love this daytime poolside scene, as well as the DJs and parties at night.
A standard on the Cabo bar scene for over 30 years is The Giggling Marlin (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/143-1182, www.gigglingmarlin.com, 9am-1am daily). It’s most famous for its gimmick of allowing visitors to hang upside down by their feet, like a caught fish, next to a large marlin for a shot and a unique photo op. A fun and friendly staff serves decent food, including salsa made tableside.
Probably the most popular and classic late-night Cabo spot is El Squid Roe (Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 624/155-9630, www.elsquidroe.com, 10am-5am daily), located on the main strip. If you’re looking for dancing, loud music, drinking, and fun, this is your place.
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El Squid Roe
For an evening of live music, drinks, and food, head to Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo Cantina (Vicente Guerrero, tel. 624-143/1188, www.cabowabo.com, 9am-3am daily). It makes its own blue agave tequila and serves Mexican food (US$19-30). It’s one of the liveliest spots in Cabo, day or night.
Near the marina, Monkey’s Cave Bar (Blvd. Marina Plaza Marlin, tel. 624/143-6799, 9am-midnight daily), formerly Monkey Business, is a funky little hole-in-the-wall bar for patrons of all ages. Its margaritas are extremely popular and made with freshly squeezed limes.
Nearby, outdoor palapa bar Uno Mas? (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/105-1877, www.unomascabo.com, 10am-midnight Mon.-Sat.) is popular for its cheap drinks and fun, casual atmosphere. The friendly staff makes drinks using fresh juices and real fruits.
Located in downtown Cabo is what’s advertised to be the “world’s smallest bar,” Slim’s Elbow Room (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/172-5576, www.slimscabo.com, noon-10pm daily). Dollar bills plaster the walls of this dive bar. Grab one of the few stools, or sidle up to the bar along the sidewalk and enjoy a beer or shot of tequila.
For those who enjoy a more subdued scene away from the large clubs and spring breakers, Bar Esquina (Ave. El Pescador, tel. 624/143-1890, www.bahiacabo.mx, 8am-11pm daily) offers a more elegant and sophisticated ambience. Located in the Bahia Hotel & Beach Club, it features live music, such as jazz or Spanish guitar, almost every night. This is also a favorite dinner spot with a full menu featuring Mediterranean and Mexican fusion. Rámuri Cerveza Artesanal Mexicana (Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 624/105-0163, www.cervezaramuri.com, 1pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-9pm Sun.) is a microbrewery serving its own Belgium and German-influenced craft beers. Visitors can take a tour of the brewery or enjoy pub-style food like burgers, wings, and gourmet pizzas at the restaurant. If the weather is nice, patrons can savor their beer and food outside on the rooftop beer garden where there are a number of flat-screen televisions.
SHOPPING
There’s no lack of souvenir shopping in Cabo. Across the street from The Giggling Marlin, Plaza de los Mariachis y de la Salsa (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/143-4596, 8am-4pm daily) has a smattering of souvenir shops as well as open-air bars. Silver, colorful Talavera pottery, beaded jewelry, and other typical Mexican souvenirs can be found in the small shops here.
Mega souvenir shop Hacienda Tequila (Paseo de la Marina, 9am-9pm daily) sells sombreros, shot glasses, T-shirts and, as the name suggests, a large selection of tequila. There’s a large “flea market” on Melchor Ocampo, a few blocks up from the marina where visitors will find a large market of stalls full of souvenirs and curios (but don’t expect any vintage or antique finds here as the name may suggest).
For some more authentic shopping, Zen-Mar Mask Store (Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 624/143-0661, 9am-6pm daily) sells a large selection of masks, rugs, Catrina figurines, and other decor from Oaxaca and other areas of mainland Mexico. The store has been here for 35 years.
Edith Jimenez (the owner of The Office and Edith’s restaurants) turned her hacienda-style home into a unique shop, La Coyota (Leona Vicario, tel. 624/143-0714, 9am-5pm daily) where everything you see is for sale. It’s not in a touristy neighborhood, but those looking for hand-blown glassware, pottery, crosses and sacred hearts, and other authentic decor from mainland Mexico will find it’s worth the trip.
Interior decorators and in-the-know design aficionados go to Artesano’s (Mexico 1 Km. 4.1, El Tezal neighborhood, tel. 624/143-3850, 9am-2pm Mon.-Sat.) to find a giant warehouse full of rows of colorful pottery, glassware, outdoor furniture, handwoven baskets, and more.
In downtown Cabo near the marina, Puerto Paraiso Mall (Lázaro Cárdenas 1501, tel. 624/144-3000, www.puertoparaiso.mx, 9am-10pm daily) is a large modern mall with stores like Kenneth Cole, Sunglass Hut, and Tommy Bahama.
There are plenty of large grocery stores for those staying at condos. There’s also a Costco (San José del Cabo 1659, tel. 624/146-7180, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-8pm Sun.).
FOOD
Downtown and Marina
MEXICAN
For authentic Mexican food in a charming courtyard setting, Mi Casa (Ave. Cabo San Lucas, tel. 624/143-8245, www.micasarestaurant.com.mx, 11:30am-10:30pm Mon.-Sat., 5:30pm-10:30pm Sun., US$12-25) is right on Plaza Amelia Wilkes. It serves traditional Mexican dishes from the heart of the mainland, like rich moles, chile en nogada, and seafood cocktails. It also has a second location in San José del Cabo.
Traditional Mexican food is served in large portions at the family-owned and operated Maria Jimenez Restaurante Mexicano (Calle Narcizo Mendoza, tel. 624/105-1254, 2pm-10pm Tues.-Sun., US$10-14). There’s a casual but festive atmosphere with mariachi bands. The restaurant currently only accepts cash.
With almost 200 options available, patrons head to Pancho’s (Hidalgo and Emiliano Zapata, tel. 624/143-2891, www.panchos.com, 8am-10:30pm daily, US$11-14) for the tequila tastings as much as the Mexican food. The service is friendly, the portions are large, and the restaurant is conveniently located in downtown.
Best Restaurants
S El Farallon: Fine dining, impeccable service, and a champagne bar accompany incredible views and crashing waves below (click here).
S Sunset MonaLisa: Get a reservation for sunset and bask in the show over El Arco and the ocean (click here).
S El Matador: This aptly named bullfighting-themed restaurant offers high-quality meats with a beautiful patio and live entertainment (click here).
S La Lupita: Offering unique tacos (like lamb and octopus) and a mescal menu, this hip restaurant pleases visiting foodies and locals alike (click here).
S Lolita Café: Healthy eaters will appreciate the wide selection of artisanal veggie dishes with Mexican flair (click here).
S Flora’s Field Kitchen: For a unique local experience, visit this garden restaurant where food is made with only the freshest homegrown ingredients (click here).
At Maria Corona (16 de Septiembre, tel. 624/143-1111, www.mariacoronarestaurant.com, 3pm-11pm daily, US$9-14) every Tuesday patrons enjoy a live show featuring traditional dancers and music. Traditional Mexican dishes are served with a spectacle that tourist enjoy—such as guacamole made tableside and Mexican coffee lit on fire.
For signature moles and authentic traditional Mexican dishes that have been passed down for generations, head to Los Tres Gallos (20 de Noviembre, tel. 624/164-5869, www.lostresgallos.com, 8am-10pm daily, US$12-14). There’s a cozy atmosphere with a charming outdoor patio as well as an open kitchen.
The place to go for breakfast is Mama’s Royal Café (Calle Hidalgo, tel. 624/143-4290, www.mamasroyalcafeloscabos.com, 7am-2:30pm Mon.-Sat., US$6-9). From huevos charros (a deluxe version of huevos rancheros) to eggs Benedict and a large selection of omelettes, the dishes are rich and savory. The bright and colorful setting is casual, with plenty of Mexican charm.
SEAFOOD
The seafood dishes are what keep patrons coming back to Misiones de Kino (Vicente Guerrero Guerrero at 5 de Mayo, tel. 624/105-1408, www.misionesdekino.com, 3:30pm-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$10-14). There’s indoor seating as well as a small and intimate courtyard with romantic outdoor lighting. The seafood pastas are a favorite, and shrimp lovers won’t want to miss the shrimp served in a special garlic sauce.
Don’t let the very casual, no-frills setting at Mariscos las Tres Islas (Revolución de 1910, tel. 624/143-3247, 8am-10pm daily, US$8-12) fool you—it offers some of the best and freshest seafood around. The catch of the day is always fantastic at this locals’ spot. Wash it down with a mango margarita.
The eclectic and quirky Maro’s Shrimp House (Ave. Hidalgo, tel. 624/143-4966, noon-10pm daily, US$14-17) is decorated with college sports team pennants and the signatures of patrons. As the restaurant’s name suggests, it’s known for its shrimp, and the lobster comes in a close second. For being a tourist restaurant downtown, the prices are reasonable for the value.
Don’t miss the seafood combination platter at Las Mariscadas (Calle Cabo San Lucas, tel. 624/105-1563, 1pm-10pm daily, US$7-11), where you’ll enjoy casual dining under a large open-air palapa. From coconut mango shrimp to ceviche to grilled octopus, the food is delicious at reasonable prices, and the staff is friendly and welcoming.
TACO STANDS
Tacos Guss (Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 624/105-1961, US$5-7) serves classic Mexican street food (huaraches, tortas, tacos, and quesadillas) in a casual sit-down restaurant. This is a popular place so the lines can be long and it can be difficult to get a table after you’ve ordered, but most patrons think it’s worth the wait. You can always take the food to go.
For a California-style burrito made with fresh and healthy ingredients, head to Burrito Surf (Mariano Matamoros and Nino Heroes, tel. 624/143-0098, www.burritosurfcabo.com, 11am-9pm Mon.-Sat., US$5-8). It also has salads, burrito bowls, and quesadillas.
For carnitas, the best place to go in the area is Carnitas Los Michoacanos (Mexico 19, tel. 624/146-3565, 7:30am-6pm daily, US$4). You can order carnitas by the kilo, which comes along with tortillas and all the salsas and fixings. Don’t miss the chicharrón as well. Carnitas Los Michoacanos has four locations throughout Los Cabos, but the main location is on the highway on the road to Todos Santos, across from the Soriana.
INTERNATIONAL
Solomon’s Landing (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/154-3050, www.solomonslandingcabo.com, 7am-11pm daily, US$18-25) is a popular spot for expats, tourists, and cruise ship passengers. It’s conveniently located on the marina with well-prepared food (the extensive menu has sushi, seafood, pastas, and more) and a fun and lively atmosphere.
For Italian dining featuring huge portions and friendly service, locals and tourists head to Salvatore’s (Emiliano Zapata, tel. 624/105-1044, 11am-3pm and 6pm-10pm daily, US$13-16). The pork shank is slow-cooked, tender, and savory, served with a side of alfredo. The lasagna is famous here because it’s delicious and large enough for two people to share.
Mediterranean specialties like stuffed tenderloin scaloppini and pasta carbonara are served up at Alcaravea (Calle Ignacio Zaragoza and 16 de Septiembre, tel. 624/105-1844, noon-11pm Mon.-Sat., US$9-16). It has a French chef who makes rich and savory sauces that top items like filet mignon and the catch of the day. The set lunch special includes a choice of entrée and a dessert, and at US$7 is one of the best deals in Cabo.
You can find an eclectic assortment of international fare such as barbecue ribs, Argentinian steak, and tuna tartare at El Peregrino (Calle Ignacio Zaragoza, tel. 624/688-4872, 1pm-11pm daily, US$10-14). The delicious food, casual atmosphere, and friendly staff make this a pleasurable dining experience. Make a reservation if you have a large group.
Playa El Médano
MEXICAN
For elegant outdoor dining at Playa Médano, Hacienda Cocina y Cantina (tel. 624/163-3144, 8am-10pm daily, haciendacocina.com, US$16-24) is a casual but sophisticated option. Views look out at El Arco and the menu features Mexican specialties from mainland regions such as Oaxaca, Puebla, Guerrero, and Veracruz. Tequilas, local craft beers, handcrafted cocktails, and wine top off the selection.
From the same owners as The Office, Edith’s (Camino a la Playa El Médano, tel. 624/143-0801, www.edithscabo.com, 5pm-11pm daily, US$17-36) serves Baja California cuisine with a Guerreran influence, creating a fusion of steaks and seafood along with local flavors and ingredients. Owner Edith has been with this restaurant since arriving in Cabo from Jalapa in 1977 when she was 15 and working as a waiter (she changed the name to Edith’s in 1994). Serving Mexican fare in a fun atmosphere, La Catrina (Playa del Pescador, tel. 624/143-9561, 8am-11pm daily, US$12-20) has an extensive menu offering many traditional Mexican dishes. Chile rellenos, moles, fresh seafood, and fajitas are all on the menu. Don’t miss the guacamole, which is made tableside. The open-air restaurant has a friendly staff and is a favorite among travelers and local expats.
TACO STANDS
With a convenient location downtown, seafood lovers will want to head to Tacos Gardenias (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/355-4871, www.tacosgardenias.com, 8am-10pm daily), featuring fish tacos, shrimp molcajetes, and seafood cocktails.
If you follow celebrity and TV chefs, you’ll definitely want to head to Asi y Asado (Mexico 1 Km. 3.8, tel. 624/105-9500, www.asiyasado.com, 10am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-7pm Sun.), which Guy Fieri visited on his show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. He called the octopus taco “so fresh, it tastes like the sea.” Asi y Asado has an extensive toppings bar with cucumbers, salsas, radishes, and coleslaw.
INTERNATIONAL
Eat with your toes in the sand at casual beach restaurant The Office (Playa El Médano, access to Av. Del Pescador, tel. 624/143-3464, www.theofficeonthebeach.com, 7am-10pm daily, US$8-14), which has become a Cabo staple for most tourists. The prices are reasonable and the atmosphere is fun with live music, lively crowds, and flowing drinks. From burritos and coconut shrimp to burgers and steak, the menu is diverse, and the spot is great for hanging out during the day, drinking, eating, and watching people go by. It’s also nice for a sunset dinner.
For indoor or outdoor fine dining, La Casona (Villa la Estancia, Camino Viejo a San José del Cabo Km. 05, tel. 624/145-6900, 7am-11pm daily, US$18-23) is a popular steakhouse. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily. Friendly staff, savory food, and excellent steaks make this restaurant a favorite among tourists.
Playa Solmar
INTERNATIONAL
On the property of The Resort at Pedregal, S El Farallon (Camino Del Mar 1, tel. 624/163-4300, 5:30pm-10:30pm daily, US$30-75) provides guests with an exquisite dining experience. Fresh fish, shrimp, lobster, and steak are all on the menu for main courses, in addition to the set family-style appetizers served beforehand. Built right into the side of the mountain, with the crashing waves below, the atmosphere and views are spectacularly memorable, including at sunset. There’s also a champagne terrace carved out of rock where diners can choose from over 15 types of champagne to try with a selection of salts.
Located at the Grand Solmar, La Roca (Ave. Solmar 1A, tel. 624/144-2500, 7am-10pm daily, US$16-31) is a wonderful option for an elegant meal. The menu features authentic Baja cuisine, seafood, steak, and American dishes. Indoor or outdoor dining is available, all with stunning views of Playa Solmar. Arrive to take advantage of the sunset over the ocean. Reservations are required, and a dress code is enforced.
ACCOMMODATIONS
For those looking for a more authentic and intimate experience than the resorts, there are a few options for boutique hotels and budget accommodations in the downtown and marina area. Only resorts and large hotels will be found along the beaches and water’s edge. To get beachfront, you’ll need to head out of downtown to Playa Médano or Playa Solmar. The beach at Playa Médano is buzzing with energy, people, and activities, since it’s one of the few swimmable beaches in Cabo San Lucas. Playa Solmar, in contrast, is a beautiful and more deserted beach, great for enjoying a walk on the sand, but the strong waves and currents here make it a unsafe for swimming.
Resorts on Playa Solmar are over on the Pacific Ocean side of Cabo and have beautiful, expansive beaches to look at. The sand is coarse, and the surf and currents are strong here and definitely not suitable for swimming.
Many of the large resorts in Cabo will let you book room and airfare at the same time.
Best Accommodations
S Casa Bella: This charming hacienda-style boutique hotel in Cabo San Lucas has a prime location near the bustle of town, but offers a serene escape (click here).
S The Cape, a Thompson Hotel: This resort is making a splash with its sleek urban design, luxurious feel, world-class restaurant, and chic rooftop bar (click here).
S Casa Natalia: Offering luxury with chic decor, this boutique hotel is just off the San José del Cabo plaza and has a pool and restaurant on-site (click here).
S El Delfin Blanco: Enjoy personal attention, Swedish pancakes, and comfy accommodations for the right price (click here).
S Hotel El Ganzo: The understated but hip El Ganzo draws artists, musicians, and trendsetters with its relaxed vibe and chic setting (click here).
Downtown and Marina
For budget accommodations, Baja Cactus Hotel & Hostel (Lázaro Cárdenas, tel. 624/143-5247, US$22-50) offers both shared dorm rooms and private suites. There’s wireless access throughout, a common area with games, and a communal kitchen. Continental breakfast is provided.
For boutique hotel accommodations in a resort town, head to S Casa Bella (Hidalgo 10, tel. 624/143-6400, www.casabellahotel.com, US$213-253). This 14-room hotel has plenty of Spanish character with arched windows and rooms centered around a lovely lush courtyard with a small pool. A stay here evokes a more authentic old-world Mexican charm than you’ll get at any of the typical Cabo resorts. A free continental breakfast of fruits, pastries, coffee, and tea is included in your stay. The staff is friendly and helpful and can make arrangements for excursions like fishing trips, golfing, and whale-watching. The prime location is quiet and relaxed, just off the plaza and walking distance to the lively downtown and marina area.
Off the beaten path, Norman Diego’s The Mexican Inn (16 de Septiembre and Abasolo, tel. 624/143-4987, www.themexicaninn.com, US$150-170) has six basic rooms decorated with Mexican accents. Rooms have TVs and DVD players (DVDs are available to borrow at the front office). There’s a common area where free continental breakfast is served in the mornings (cooked breakfast available for an extra price).
With plenty of charm Los Milagros (Matamoros 116, tel. 624/143-4566, www.losmilagros.com.mx, US$85-125) features a calming colonial courtyard with Talavera tiles, wrought-iron tables with mosaic work, and overgrowing bougainvillea. There are plenty of spots to sit and relax around the gardens and courtyard, and even a small dipping pool. Additionally, there’s a sun terrace on the upper level. The rooms are basic but clean and feature Mexican accents with Saltillo floors and colorful Talavera tiles.
Cabo Inn Hotel (20 de Noviembre and Leona Vicario, tel. 624/143-0819, www.caboinnhotel.com, $48-73) has a wide range of rooms available, from standard rooms with twin beds to rooftop palapa suites. This colorful and funky property has a courtyard, rooftop patio, small dipping pool, and full communal kitchen and barbecue. The on-site restaurant, Hole in the Wall, serves breakfast and lunch.
With affordable prices and a location in the heart of the action downtown, Siesta Suites (tel. 624/143-2773, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/271-0952, www.cabosiestasuites.com, US$72) is walking distance to nearly everything in Cabo. Rooms are large and clean, and the property is pet-friendly. There’s a great deck where guests mingle and enjoy happy hour Wednesday-Friday.
The colonial-style Hotel Mar de Cortez (Lázaro Cárdenas 140, tel. 624/143-0032, www.mardecortez.com, US$80) is a budget hotel in a historical building in downtown Cabo. The rooms are basic (no TV or mini-fridge), but the location is ideal and there’s a nice pool in the courtyard. American-style breakfast is included in the stay. The restaurant is also open for lunch, and there’s a sports bar with happy hour noon-3pm and again at 5-7pm daily.
With a great location right on the marina, Marina Fiesta Resort & Spa (Paseo de la Marina, tel. 624/145-6020, www.marinafiestaresort.com, US$180-220) is walking distance to everything in downtown. There are now two ways to book—bed-and-breakfast (with just breakfast included with your room) or all-inclusive, which requires a four-night minimum stay. The swimming pool has a large palapa swim-up bar. The friendly staff pay a lot of attention to detail and customer satisfaction.
For an authentic Mexican experience, El Nido at Hacienda Escondida (Libertad and Miguel Angel Herrera, tel. 624/143-2053, www.cabobedbreakfast.com, US$160-180) is a bed-and-breakfast nestled in a charming hacienda building. There are six rooms in total, with two of them on the ground floor and the other four “palapa rooms,” with palapa roofs that are open on one side to the mountains. There’s a rooftop deck, Jacuzzi, and restaurant and cantina on the property.
At The Bungalows Hotel (Miguel Angel Herrera, www.thebungalowshotel.com, US$165-185) all rooms have kitchenettes, air-conditioning, pillow-top mattresses, handmade desert soaps, and bathroom amenities. A delicious, full gourmet breakfast is served in the morning. The hotel is happy to help arrange activities and rental cars or recommend restaurants and things to see. The location is great, out of the touristy area, but close enough to walk to downtown and the marina.
Playa El Médano
The high-end, family-friendly resort Villa del Arco Beach Resort and Spa (Camino Viejo a San Jose Km. 0.5, tel. 624/145-7200, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/831-1191, www.villagroupresorts.com, US$885-1,085) has 217 suites, all with kitchenettes or full kitchens, air-conditioning, and private balconies. There are two outdoor pools with waterfalls, right on Médano beach with views of El Arco. One is home to a full-size replica of a Spanish galleon that serves as a bar. Two room packages are available when booking—all-inclusive or room only.
The ultramodern ME Cabo by Meliá (Playa El Médano, tel. 624/145-7800, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/956-3542, www.melia.com, US$290-325) is a popular place for 20- and 30-somethings who want a nice hotel on the beach close to the nightlife of downtown. The pool area has numerous cabana lounges and a DJ playing music. Weekends can be rowdy with music coming from the bar areas until late at night.
All-inclusive Casa Dorada (Ave. Pescador, tel. 624/163-5757, US$715) has a number of restaurants on the property, with 12 Tribes being a favorite among guests. Médano beach and two large pools provide plenty of space for sunning and relaxing. Be aware that wireless Internet isn’t free here. Casa Dorada tends to draw an older clientele, and the property is relatively quiet at night, so you’ll need to go into town nearby if you’re looking for a nightlife scene.
Boutique Bahia Hotel & Beach Club (Ave. Pescador, tel. 624/143-1890, www.bahiacabo.mx, US$310) is set a block away from Médano beach and two blocks away from the marina. There’s a pool area and poolside bar. Bar Esquina on the property is a popular spot for both locals and tourists and serves handcrafted food and cocktails.
For an all-inclusive experience, Hotel Riu Palace (Camino Viejo a San José del Cabo Km. 4.5, tel. 624/146-7160, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/748-4990, www.riu.com, US$1,040 for three-nights, all-inclusive double occupancy) provides 24/7 service in a relaxing environment right on the beach. A three-night minimum is required. There are two freshwater swimming pools, a spa and wellness center, and plenty of organized activities like volleyball, gymnastics, windsurfing, kayaking, and golf. Restaurants, bars, and clubs on the property offer entertainment in the evenings. You’ll need to get up early (before 7am) if you want to get a pool lounge facing the ocean. No “spring breakers” allowed at Riu Palace any time of year, but right next door is the Riu Santa Fe (Camino Viejo a San José del Cabo Km. 4.5, tel. 624/163-6150, www.riu.com, US$688 three nights, all-inclusive double occupancy), which attracts a lot of 20-somethings with more of a party vibe.
In the process of opening on Médano beach is Cachet Corazon (www.corazondelcaboresort.com), the first resort destination project for Cachet Hotel Group. The first tower, Cachet Beach, features 77 rooms. The second tower Cachet Delux is scheduled to open at the beginning of 2018. The resort will feature Cachet Hotel Group’s technology platform, enabling features such as “Personalized Hotel Rooms,” allowing guests to design their room and upgrade with add-ons such as choosing designer bedding, bath and body products, and beauty essentials.
Set back from the beach on the other side of the highway from Playa El Médano in a neighborhood called El Tezal is Los Patios Hotel (Mexico 1 Km. 4.5, tel. 624/145-6070, www.lospatioshotel.com, US$45). This affordable option is a newer property, and rooms are nicely appointed with air-conditioning, in-room safes, hair dryers, coffeemakers, and private terraces with hammocks. The hotel still has plenty of Mexican charm with bright colors and Mexican decor accents. There’s a heated pool, a Jacuzzi, and a restaurant on-site. The downfall is that you’ll need to take a taxi or bus to get to the beach or other parts of town.
Also in El Tezal is Casa Contenta (Calle Modelo, tel. 624/143/6038, www.cabocasacontenta.com, US$200-225), a bed-and-breakfast situated in the house of a former mayor of Cabo. This beautiful residence has been turned into a comfortable and spacious luxury hotel where guests will enjoy personal attention and a relaxing and rejuvenating stay.
Playa Solmar
Playa Solmar is a more secluded and empty beach than the busy Playa Médano. Swimming here is not advised with the strong surf and currents.
A luxurious stay at The Resort at Pedregal (Camino del Mar 1, tel. 624/163-4300, www.theresortatpedregal.com, US$990) will provide you with all of the standard upscale resort amenities. The staff are genuine and welcoming, providing outstanding service. Daily guacamole, salsa, and Coronitas are delivered to your room between 4pm and 5pm, making a perfect pre-dinner snack. The famous El Farallon restaurant is on the property, where guests can enjoy exquisite seafood dishes with waves crashing in the background. Although the resort is private and secluded, the entrance of the property (you can take a golf cart, as you’ll need to go through the signature tunnel) is just a short walking distance to the marina.
There are five Solmar properties in Cabo; Solmar Resort (Ave. Solmar 1, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/344-3349, www.solmarcabosanlucas.com, US$164 for B&B, $274 for all-inclusive double occupancy) is one of the intimate oceanfront resorts. Guests can book either an all-inclusive plan (which includes all food, drinks, and activities), or a B&B plan which just includes breakfast. From the property guests can hike to Lover’s and Divorce Beach (only reachable by boat for most travelers). For a more exclusive experience, Solmar offers its Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa (Ave. Solmar 1-A, tel. 624/144-2500, www.grandsolmarresort.com, US$450). This property features the highly acclaimed La Roca restaurant.
Once the legendary Hotel Finisterra, Sandos Finisterra Los Cabos (Paseo de la Marina, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/774-0040, www.sandosloscabosresort.com, US$340) is now a renovated all-inclusive resort. There are beautiful beach views and a large pool area, anchored by the hotel’s famous tall palapa pool bar in the middle. There’s no swimming on the beach here as the waves of the Pacific are too fierce, but the resort has palapas and lounges on the beach to enjoy the views. Unlike at many other resorts in the Los Cabos area, finding a chair near the pool or on the beach is not a problem here.
Opening late 2017 is Hard Rock Los Cabos (www.hardrockhotels.com), an all-inclusive resort with 600 rooms, six restaurants, and multiple pools. There are both family-friendly and adults-only sections. Live music performances, a full-service spa, and a workout facility round out the services offered at this resort.
Also expected is the 200-room, beachfront Nobu Hotel (www.nobuhotels.com), which is scheduled to open in 2017. The luxury accommodations will have a contemporary and elegant style with inspiration coming from the local beach as well as Japan. The resort will also feature a signature Nobu Restaurant and Bar.
Camping and RV Parks
Vagabundos del Mar Trailer Park (Mexico 1 Km. 3, tel. 624/144-7223, www.vagabundosrestaurant.com, US$18) has 85 spaces with full hookups, including water and 15- or 30-amp power. The restaurant on the property, while not fancy, is open daily for lunch and dinner from noon and has good food and an extensive menu.
Set in a gated residential community, Villa Serena RV Park (Mexico 1 Km. 7.5, tel. 624/145-8244, www.villaserenacabo.net, US$23) offers access to the pool, restaurant, lounge, and other services in the community.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Tourist Assistance
Los Cabos Convention and Visitors Bureau (Lázaro Cárdenas Edificio Posada, tel. 624/143-4777, 9am-5pm daily) can provide tourist help and assistance with hotels, restaurant, and local events.
The U.S. Consulate
The United States has a consular agency in Cabo San Lucas (Tiendas de Palmilla, Mexico 1 Km. 27.5 Local B221, tel. 624/143-3566). It can provide emergency services for U.S. citizens as well as routine services such as notarial services, reports of birth abroad, and applications for U.S. passports. This location is unable to provide visa-related information or services.
Medical Services
There are plenty of clinics in the area with English-speaking doctors. Open 24/7, AmeriMed (Lázaro Cardenas, tel. 624/143-9670, www.amerimed.com.mx) is equipped to handle emergency services, has a bilingual staff, and accepts insurance policies. Dial 911 for emergencies.
TRANSPORTATION
Getting There
FROM LOS CABOS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Ruta del Desierto (www.rutadeldesierto.travel) is a bus service that takes you from Los Cabos International Airport in San José del Cabo to Cabo San Lucas for US$5. You can collect the bus from Terminal 1 at the airport, and it will drop you in downtown Cabo San Lucas near the marina. The bus makes numerous stops along the route, so it will take an hour.
Many of the larger hotels in Cabo San Lucas offer a free or paid shuttle service that can be arranged prior to arrival. It takes about 40 minutes to reach Cabo San Lucas by taxi and costs about US$80.
Although Cabo San Lucas has car rental companies, note that the cheapest options are at the Los Cabos International Airport.
CAR
It’s a 30-kilometer drive to Cabo San Lucas from the Los Cabos airport. Travelers can either take the faster and more direct route on the new toll road (US$4), which takes 30 minutes, or drive closer to the coast along Mexico 1, which takes 15 minutes longer.
Most large hotels in Cabo San Lucas have parking lots.
BUS
Aguila (tel. 800/824-8452, www.autobusesaguila.com) and Autobuses de la Baja California (ABC, tel. 664/104-7400, www.abc.com.mx) run buses to and from La Paz and Todos Santos, with similar schedules and prices. From La Paz, the bus ride to Cabo San Lucas takes three hours, and costs US$22, with buses running about every hour. From Todos Santos, the two-hour bus ride costs US$9, with buses departing every hour.
The bus terminal in Cabo San Lucas is located on Avenue Hidalgo near Avenue Reforma, 2.5 kilometers northwest of the marina and downtown. It’s a 30-minute walk to the downtown marina area from the bus station, or a taxi costs US$6.
Getting Around
Most visitors who stay in Cabo San Lucas get around by walking or taking a taxi.
TAXI
Most taxis in Los Cabos are large vans that can fit 10 passengers or more. A taxi around town should cost under US$8, but always ask about the fare before getting in. Larger hotels and resorts will have taxis waiting outside the lobbies.
BUS
Aguila (tel. 800/824-8452, www.autobusesaguila.com) and Autobuses de la Baja California (ABC, tel. 664/104-7400, www.abc.com.mx) run bus services between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, with similar schedules and prices. The bus ride to San José del Cabo takes 30 minutes and costs US$3. Buses run every half hour.
The Corridor
Mexico 1 (also called the Carretera Transpeninsular, or Transpeninsular Highway) runs along the 30-kilometer coastal corridor between Cabo San Lucas (Km. 0) and San José del Cabo (Km. 30), a sprawling stretch of beautiful beaches populated with posh resorts. This constantly growing area provides a seamless connection between the two Cabos, with an endless belt of hotels, restaurants, and shops.
There’s no city center here in the corridor. Many of the area’s restaurants are those found at the hotels. Visitors stay in this region to relax and enjoy the resort life. Major accommodations and beaches are just off the highway, and signs and kilometers are well marked so it’s easy to find your way around.
S BEACHES
The corridor is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Los Cabos. Whether you’re looking for activities such as snorkeling, swimming, and Jet Skiing, or just want to relax, the corridor has a beach for you.
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The corridor is home to some of the area’s most beautiful beaches.
Bahía Santa Maria
Another good spot for snorkeling is Bahía Santa Maria (Mexico 1 Km. 12) where you can rent a snorkel and mask from a vendor on the beach if you didn’t bring your own. It’s best to go in the morning when waters are calm and you have the best chance at reserving one of the beach palapas. There are new public showers and clean restrooms. The sand here is very coarse, more like little pebbles, so plan on wearing water shoes if you have sensitive feet. Watch for beach access signs to get to the dirt parking lot.
Playa Chileno
One of the most picturesque and swimmable beaches in the region is Playa Chileno (Mexico 1 Km. 14). The protected bay provides a calm area for swimming, and the coral reef out near the point provides one of Cabo’s most popular spots for snorkeling from shore. This family-friendly beach is located adjacent to the new Auberge Chileno Bay Resort, but public access is still easily available. Just follow the signs from Mexico 1. There’s a dirt parking lot and portapotties.
Playa Bledito (Tequila Cove)
An artificial breakwater makes swimming possible at Playa Bledito (Mexico 1 Km. 19.5), also known as Tequila Cove. You can rent a Jet Ski or WaveRunner on the beach here. There’s public access through the arroyo at kilometer 19.5 or through the Hilton or Meliá Cabo Real hotels.
Playa Palmilla
Even though Playa Palmilla (Mexico 1 Km. 27) serves as the beach for many upscale resorts, it’s open for anyone to enjoy. This beach is protected enough for swimming and snorkeling, which makes it a popular spot for families. There are no facilities here other than a few palapas for shade on either side of the fishing fleet. Take the Palmilla exit off the highway and follow signs to the main beach.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Surfing
South swells in summer bring consistent breaks in the corridor at spots like Monuments (Mexico 1 Km. 5.5), which is great on south swells; El Tule (Mexico 1 Km. 16.2), a right reef break; and Las Conchas (Mexico 1 between Km. 19 and 20), with a right break. There are a few surfing schools for beginners and for board rentals.
Surf in Cabo (tel. 624/117-9495, www.surfincabo.com) can handle everything from beginner lessons to weeklong surf trips to Scorpion Bay for advanced surfers. It can also customize special surf events or multiday trips.
Diving and Snorkeling
There are five great dive sites in the corridor. Whales Head is a shallow dive site (ranging from 5-50 feet) with a coral reef and marinelife such as sea turtles, octopus, eels, and rays. Chileno Bay is a protected reef that starts 100 yards offshore from Playa Chileno, and is a good spot for beginning divers and snorkelers with its shallow, calm waters. The reef here is home to manta rays, sea turtles, and nurse sharks. Gavilanes is a small bay with one of the best coral reefs in Los Cabos. Both beginner and advanced divers will enjoy seeing rays, whitetip reef sharks, angelfish, and lobsters. Bahía Santa Maria has a shallow reef (ranging from 10-45 feet) with a variety of fish and rays, good for both snorkelers and beginning divers. Offshore from Bahía Santa Maria is The Blowhole, where more advanced divers will see larger schools of fish, manta rays, and sea turtles.
Divers can take trips to any of the five corridor dive sites with Dive Cabo (tel. 624/157-6327, www.divecabo.com). Sites are a 10- to 30-minute boat ride from the Cabo San Lucas marina, where tours depart (no hotel pickup) five times daily. A trip costs US$95 for a two-tank dive. Manta Scuba Diving (tel. 624/144-3871, www.caboscuba.com) offers daily dive trips departing at 8am from its facility at the Cabo San Lucas marina (no hotel pickup) to sites along the corridor; the 5-hour tour’s pricing starts at US$115. It also offers a 5-hour snorkeling trip daily to spots along the corridor, departing at 8am, for US$70 per person. Offering private scuba trips to dive sites along the corridor is Cabo Trek (tel. 624/143-6242, www.cabodivetrek.co