I'm working now so have not been able to try anything else, but I just checked and the nails I have are galvanized, so at least that saves me from having to buy something else for the bottom. Once the walls are done I plan to get it spray foamed right to the floor (probably next year), then I'll probably add some roxul. No vapor barrier since the foam will act as one. None of these walls will be load bearing. If I was building from scratch I'd definitely be nailing from the top as I don't need to match up with anything else so it's easier to just make it straight than to try to curve it with indifferences in the ground.

I did put the top plate first as that way I was able to line up the bottom with a plumb bob. In fact I've only been measuring my 16" centers from the top, then use the plumb bob to make the bottom line. that way if I make a mistake somewhere where a stud is not 100% straight I'm not carrying it over to the next one.

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it is called toe nailing, and a framing gun helps for the inexperienced. I personally, if I have to hand nail, drive a nail against the opposite side of the stud to hold it. then nail two nails to the opposing side, it will move over, hit the stud in place then drive the third nail in the center after I pull the holding nail. in your case I would use screws. also a 20oz hammer is easier

Finally cleared enough snow to get the car out of the driveway and went to get some screws. These should do right? It shows a picture of a guy building a house on the other side of the box, if that means anything.

Think what I will do is drive one screw per end to hold the stud in place then drive two nails on the opposite end and leave it at that. Think this will work ok? I'll also predrill the holes for the screws and nails.

I was also thinking, should I double up on the bottom plate, as to make drywall install easier? With the dricore and having to leave a small gap for any movement there wont be much of the plate left for the drywall screws to go into. I can always add a 2x2 afterwards too though. What is the typical way to handle this? I've been told I should even put the dricore first, but I rather not as I want a gap so that if by chance I get water seepage it wont just spill over on top of the dricore, but actually go under it.

I always install a double sole plate. You do the layout on the first PT plate, and fasten it to the floor with Rawl spikes, then you build the wall, stand it up and fasten wall to the bottom plate with nails. Gives you something to nail the base molding to without hunting for studs. So you didnt buy a framing nailer huh? You must have a lot of extra time to kill.

Number 8 is pretty thin for three inch screws. Maybe you can put one screw on the left side and hammer two HD Galvanized 10d nails on the right to save screws. Just a thought.

__________________" Most people would rather die than think, and most do " Bertrand Russell

Number 8 is pretty thin for three inch screws. Maybe you can put one screw on the left side and hammer two HD Galvanized 10d nails on the right to save screws. Just a thought.

Yeah that's my plan. The screw will be mostly just to hold it temporarily, but it will be left in as extra support.

I looked at nailers, but they're so specialized and then I need to buy the special nails for them, a hammer is more versatile and I don't need special nails. If I was a framer by trade or building a whole house, maybe I'd buy one, but for just doing the basement, I rather not buy a tool I'll probably not use again, or by the time I do need it they'll have stopped making the nails for it. They're also not cheap. And if I rent I will feel too rushed as it's costing me as time is ticking, I rather just own my tools. I think once I finally get started it will go faster as I get the pace up.

Good to know about doubling up the bottom, this is what I'll do, I'll have to remove the studs I started though but I kinda butchered those anyway so best to just restart.

I always install a double sole plate. You do the layout on the first PT plate, and fasten it to the floor with Rawl spikes, then you build the wall, stand it up and fasten wall to the bottom plate with nails. Gives you something to nail the base molding to without hunting for studs. So you didnt buy a framing nailer huh? You must have a lot of extra time to kill.

Number 8 is pretty thin for three inch screws. Maybe you can put one screw on the left side and hammer two HD Galvanized 10d nails on the right to save screws. Just a thought.

you must have alot of extra money to burn. I have never heard of anyone doing double bottom plates. Double top, anytime I am framing with something going on top.

exactly, especially for walls that arent bearing walls. the only two times a double bottom plate is needed is when you will doing an overpour plate for in floor heat on top of a regular wood framed floor or the odd time on a renovation when you have a odd wall height where its cheaper to add a second plate than it is to buy studs that are a foot longer

Finally stopped procrastinating and started working on this again. I have a nice stretch of days off so I hope to get some progress in.

The idea of the double bottom plate is to give more surface area to fasten the drywall/baseboards, as the dricore adds a bit of height. Or is there an easier way that I'm overlooking? I'm also finding that just predrilling then nailing is helping tremendously. I use screws in awkward areas to at least get a piece into position then use nails for the rest.

Good old stick framing, I also would frame it as you are. Put in the top and bottom plates, fill it in with studs.
Would be fine to run your studs at 24" on center. Is not structural and is only holding drywall and maybe insulation.

And maybe you do need to predrill. I bought some 14' 2x4 from HD a couple months ago.
14' is just not a popular or commonly used size. I got it to the job site and stuff was so dry, was hard as rock. I did have to predrill just to put screws in it.
I would use a framing nailer for this project, and would be a good excuse to buy a new toy

But using 3" gold wood screws would be my second choice, just slower. Hand driving the toe nails would be my last choice, but once you get the correct swear words down, will work fine.

If that wood is splitting on you, sounds like it is dried out and rock hard to me.

Please disregard LOL, I read the first page and did not realize was 3 pages.

Last edited by funfool; 04-10-2013 at 06:44 PM.
Reason: jumped to soon

Well I have to say, simply predrilling holes then driving a nail in the predrilled hole makes things much easier. Using a bit that is maybe 1/2 the size of the nail, don't want to compromise the strength either. That and I nail a nail straight down on the opposite side so the joist wont move when I nail then I just remove that nail and use it to nail the other side. 3 nails per stud. Ended up not even using screws but I will need them when I get to the parts where I need to add braces to put the top plate to, when my wall will be parallel to the joists.

first few studs finally in place!

Toe nailing

Straight enough in my book! Just a crawlspace anyway.

Now quick question, for the crawlspace where I can reach the bottom and top at same time it's easy, but when I get to the basement part, how does one measure from mark to mark after using a plum bob to mark the line on top? I measure at the bottom first (easier to lay the tape down) and mark my 16" lines and any other spot where I may need a joist. I then go on top and line up the pumb bob to the line so I can mark the line on top. Then I measure from line to line. How would one do this alone for a 7 foot wall? Also is there a faster way than a plum bob to line it up? Maybe a plum bob with a laser, is there such thing? That way I can make it shorter and it wont wave around for eternity.

Hot dipped galvanized screws and nails are recommended for treated wood of any kind but deck screws should be fine for any area thats reasonably dry. Thesame is true for nails. Do not use screws unless in a difficult nailing area. Toe nailing over your head certainly qualifies. Screws are not as strong for the same size. They are expensive and slow. A special driver or clutches are not required even with square drive. ONE HINT One of those cordless impact screwdrivers if you have one works excellent for driving long square drive screws with less stripping

Bore a pilot hole a little smaller than the nail through the stud at the angle you would like the nail to follow. If counter sinking the head is necessary counter bore for it also. Use a depth stop for both operations. Can be made of a dowel rod section.

I've always heard it as toe nailing.

Lets hope he dosent take all of these suggestions we are giving him. So far he has to predrill, countersink the heads, and put bees wax on all 2000 of his fasteneres. Geeze. Oh yeah, get out your framing depth stops. Or buy a stiletto.

Lets hope he dosent take all of these suggestions we are giving him. So far he has to predrill, countersink the heads, and put bees wax on all 2000 of his fasteneres. Geeze. Oh yeah, get out your framing depth stops. Or buy a stiletto.

I hope you realize buildings built taking all those steps are still standing after a 100 years and those built with a high speed framing nailer, that 50 percent missed the mark, and hammer drills will be doing great if they last 20-30 years. Sometimes good things take just a little longer.