Indmar Lt-1 with ZF Hurth HSW 450 A2
I've read a few threads, but still trying to figure this one out before I tackle this weekend.
Blew flex plate spring out the side of Bell housing.
After removing 4 bolts and nut for prop shaft, am I going to need to remove fuel tank or will transmission have enough clearence to come back. There is only a few inches.

Better yet where can i find a step by step process.
I know the 4 bolts and nut come off then what, does the shaft and prop just come out? The packing?, etc....
Please help this is prime time and haven't had boat out yet!

kyis

07-14-2009, 12:33 AM

Here is clearence picture trans is just a couple inches from fuel tank
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2253.jpg
Here is where shaft exits transmission, so I assume you just pull the prop shaft back far enough until you dont see it.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2255.jpg

bigmac

07-14-2009, 01:28 AM

Indmar Lt-1 with ZF Hurth HSW 450 A2
I've read a few threads, but still trying to figure this one out before I tackle this weekend.
Blew flex plate spring out the side of Bell housing.
After removing 4 bolts and nut for prop shaft, am I going to need to remove fuel tank or will transmission have enough clearence to come back. There is only a few inches.

Better yet where can i find a step by step process.
I know the 4 bolts and nut come off then what, does the shaft and prop just come out? The packing?, etc....
Please help this is prime time and haven't had boat out yet!Getting the shaft out can be a bugger - it's glued in. You might be able to heat up the bearing and whack out. The cadillac way to go is a shaft removal tool, though.

Bigmac -
What's glued in? I'm guessing you mean that the coupler to the driveshaft? For some reason, I have an interest in knowing (though I don't need to do any work now).

Kyis -
The coupler (four bolts hold this together) and the propshaft have tapers on them that the shaft nut pulls together. Once you have the shaft nut off, you need to find a way to break that taper apart. If you pull the prop off the other end of the shaft, you'll see what I mean - it has the same kind of taper fit. Search for "prop removal" on here, and you'll find lots of threads about how difficult that can be without the proper tool.

I think you'll have to remove the prop and the coupler from the propshaft; the propshaft should then slide out through the packing and past the rudder. That'll give you six inches or so to slide the tranny out. You'll probably want to take the nut off the packing box and remove the old packing and replace it when the propshaft goes back in; I used the Gore-tex from Ski-Dim, but even the standard waxed rope seems to last for 20 years, so use whatever you can source.

Your alternative is to pull the tank, and see if you can slide the propshaft plus coupler forward and out. The advantage is that you don't have to pull the coupler off the shaft; the disadvantage, of course, is removing the tank.

It may be easier to remove the engine than to remove the transmission; look at it. These engines are delivered to Mastercraft from Indmar as a drop-in assembly; all of the wiring comes in through a single connector + starter cable, and the fuel line should be the only other connection other than the motor mounts.

I haven't had to dig into the boat this far, so I'm not an expert. Just throwing some ideas your way.

/frank

kyis

07-14-2009, 10:19 AM

Thanks!
I'm assuming when you say nut, that is the brass nut in photo 2.
I have misc pullers, so hopefully i can get that taper to pop.
I will also look at how difficult to remove fuel tank would be, then I could slide the transmission over the shaft as you state.
I calculated that I only have 3 inches once the coupler comes off and shaft pulled.
How far does the trans need to pull back to come off the bellhousing?
Maybe I need to pull fuel tank anyway?
Coupler needs to be popped regardless.

FrankSchwab

07-14-2009, 02:12 PM

Kyis -
Yeah, the "nut" I referred to is the 2" brass nut in photo 2. That nut applies a little bit of force to the packing inside, keeping water from coming in around the propshaft.
If you remove the tank, I don't think you'll slide the transmission over the shaft - I think you'll remove the prop, and slide the propshaft towards the front of the boat, pulling it through the packing and through the transmission and all the way out. Then, there will be no propshaft in the way when you're trying to mess with the transmission. That should give you more than 3 inches.
I don't know how far you need to seperate the engine and transmission.

Good luck, and keep us updated.

/frank

kyis

07-15-2009, 02:46 PM

Perfect,
Got the tranny out without touching the fuel tank.
Didn't have to loosen brass nut, though probably would have slid out easier.
Will post photos soon.
So 2 more questions.
When I rotate the prop shaft it's quite sqeaky, like tight on rubber. I can't rotate by hand, but can rotate with prop or wrench.
This is normal I guess?
170 hours on the boat, so wasn't planning on repack, but will of course if nec.
boat has been out of the water for almost a year so is pretty dry.
There was like a threaded line up dowel out of the bellhousing. There was no nut on it,
Is there supposed to be a nut and washer?
Whoops 3rd question, seemed to be locktight on flexplate bolts, What is it?

kyis

07-24-2009, 01:23 AM

Here are photos of damage to bellhousing, starter, flexplate, etc.
Note! Some bolts were loose and some had fallen out that were securing transmission to bellhousing, so check those bolts. I feel this can contribute the flexplate failure.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2264.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2265.jpg
Prop shaft pulled back to this point after removing prop.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2283.jpg

Tranny airborne. 2 comealongs and some chain, 1 to hold the engine up and 1 to raise tranny.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd173/yulie61/IMG_2282.jpg
Arg,didn't know I could only post 4 images at a time