Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

10-17-2012 07:53 PM

sparkchaser

It's a 25 year old car, it's probably time to take the radiator to a shop and have it cleaned out and flow tested.

10-17-2012 02:38 PM

tech69

I guess I should also note the fans never came on after switching the heat sensor but am guessing it's because the new T stat is stuck closed and the sensor is not getting coolant over it. I'll switch out the t stat but am wondering if the 12 volt direct killed it. It sure burned my finger.

10-17-2012 01:42 PM

tech69

ok, so I replaced the T-stat, T-stat housing, and radiator temp sensor. When I was tightening up the T stat housing the open end wrench touched the battery terminal (GRRRRRRRRR!!!!) and sent a shock thru the wrench. So when I was done I test drove it to find out that it overheats no matter what I do, so it's worse now. Now I think it's the T-stat not opening, even though it's a fail safe one. Seems like the lower hose was not hot, not cold, but not hot. Could the shock have messed up the T stat, or maybe I installed it incorrectly? I situated the gasket on the exact say way it was but didn't read on installation.

Any thoughts?

10-14-2012 07:47 AM

75gmck25

I had a '90 Honda Civic, which may have had a similar engine. To bleed air out of the cooling system there was a bleed fitting on top of the thermostat housing. It fit about a 12 or 14 mm wrench, and looked like a nut with a hole in the middle.

Use a box end wrench to loosen up the bleed screw with the engine cold so that you get a feel for how much torque it takes to loosen it. Then start up the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens. While its running and hot, loosen the bleed screw until coolant just starts to dribble out, which means you have let all the air escape at the highest point. Then close the bleed screw and top off the overflow tank to the hot mark.

Your fans will kick on all the time when you run A/C. One temporary work around is to just leave the A/C on all the time.

Bruce

10-12-2012 11:52 AM

tech69

Quote:

Originally Posted by vicrod

If you are going to replace the fan sensor you may want to replace the coolant thermostat as well.
These two devices work together to maintain proper engine temperature.
The coolant thermostat will be rated at a temperature slightly lower than the fan sensor.
For example the coolant thermostat will control the coolant temperature at approx. 190* by controlling the amount of coolant that flows through the engine/radiator.
If coolant temperature rises to 195* the fan sensor will then run the fan thus cooling the system down 190*.

vicrod

I was thinking about doing just that. I was hoping they sold the T-stat housing with the switch already in it. I'll have to look into it. Thanks for all the great advice.

10-12-2012 07:16 AM

techron

HaHa, with yesterdays and todays gas prices my buddy gave me his cast off 87 honda. it saves me much money over my corvettes and the pantera when just going to the store. I have been trying to kill the honda for five years, no luck. I have not put a penny into it except for an oil and filter change once a year. When the rad fans quit working two years ago i just ran a jumper wire in the relay box under the hood so the fans run whenever the ignition is on, the stat controls the temp.

10-11-2012 11:18 PM

vicrod

thermostat

If you are going to replace the fan sensor you may want to replace the coolant thermostat as well.
These two devices work together to maintain proper engine temperature.
The coolant thermostat will be rated at a temperature slightly lower than the fan sensor.
For example the coolant thermostat will control the coolant temperature at approx. 190* by controlling the amount of coolant that flows through the engine/radiator.
If coolant temperature rises to 195* the fan sensor will then run the fan thus cooling the system down 190*.

vicrod

10-11-2012 01:46 PM

tech69

looks like it's a bad switch. no continuity or voltage when the engine is hot out of each of the two contacts going to the fan. I tested them to eachother and to the housing. Nothing. So I'll swap that out and also burp it. Thanks guys for helping me out!

10-11-2012 08:58 AM

tech69

how do I do that? Give it a beer?

10-11-2012 07:53 AM

timothale

air trapped ?

Do you have air trapped in the cooling system, sometimes that will make the temp go up and down. You might neeed to burp the system.

10-10-2012 11:24 PM

tech69

hahhaha. Yeah, I bench tested the relay and it's fine. I'll test it like vicrod said.

Thanks guys.

10-10-2012 10:36 PM

66GMC

Gawd I hate looking up parts for a Honda Civic.

You need to ask for everything but the owner's mother's maiden name and blood type. DX,EX,GX,LX and then the engine designation (1.7L doesn't usually cut it) The VIN would probably answer most of the questions that you'll be asked.

Anyway ...
I'm sure you know there is likely a fan relay that needs to be checked as well.

NAPA Echlin #AR-614
*should be* the one, I think.

10-10-2012 09:42 PM

vicrod

The temperature sensor can be tested with a ohmmeter to determine when/if the switch closes.
If your sensor has (1) electrical terminal, connect one wire of the ohmmeter to that terminal and the other wire to the body of the sensor.
When the water temperature reaches 199* the internal switch will close and the ohmmeter will indicate a complete circuit.
If the sensor is bad it will not switch.
If the sensor switch does close and and indicate a complete circuit remove the heat from the test and observe the reduced temperature when the switch opens. I could be a much as 10* under the closing temperature.
Repeat the test to look for intermittent operation.

vicrod

10-10-2012 12:47 PM

tech69

so since no one responded I went ahead to this website and got some tips.

On the second post #4 it says to check continuity to ground on pin #1 (while off) and if it has continuity than replace the switch. So according to this I must replace the switch. Sound right?

Geez, the one thing I don't like about mechanical is that it's hit and miss. I don't call myself a mechanic but man, seems like there's more part replacers out there than real diagnosers. I am no real mechanic btw.

10-10-2012 12:00 PM

tech69

ok, I went out there and had a look at things, which is very difficult when you're watching a crying little girl. Anyhow, it appears that I can drive it around and get it hot, park it, and unplug the harness and test the leads when the car is hot. Sound about right?

This thread has more than 15 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.