I have also read many times on bullet casting forums that tin helps molds fill out and that many bullet(or boolit as they say on their forums) casters use tin for mold fill out.
Started casting boolits myself last year.
Bullet casters are certainly more particular about molds filling out perfectly.
It makes a much bigger difference in a bullet than a fishing jig.
I wonder why tin helps bullet molds fill out but hasn't caught on in the jig casting community?
Could it be that jigs have more nooks and crannies,lead barbs etc, and bullets just have grooves in the molds?
May have to experiment sometime.

Well seeing that first video I wouldn't have thought there was that much involved in this paint.
Reality is though at that price it isn't for me.
I know my customers aren't going to pay what the jigs would cost with this paint on them.
But I have hope that someday this paint or one just like it will come down in price and be available for us jig makers.
A few hours from me is a chromium mine.
They mined chromium for rifle barrel alloy during WW2.
I have thought that obtaining some ore and attempting electroplating might also be a cool project.
But again time consuming and a bit pricey to get started. Especially since I have never plated anything before.
My foil jigs look awesome but like many of us I am always thinking of new ideas to try "someday".
Maybe someday one of us will acquire some of this chrome paint from somewhere and test it out.
I for one would love to see the results!

Well I have a couple of updates.
The speed controller is in and mounted.
I really like it. It serves as an on off switch as well as adjusting the vibration speed.
Turn on the air and the paint begins to volcano.
Turn on vibration and it instantly settles and fluidises like it should.
Running below 4 on the dial is too slow and the vibration motors make annoying squeaky sounds.
But above that they run good and easily speed up and down.
My hot glue attaching the fluud beds to the base failed. No biggie though.
I scratched up the Aluminum a little bit which I should have done the first time anyway. Then I scraped off the glue, put D2T on it, and used a bit of hot glue to hold it in place until the epoxy is cured.
Thats the update so far.

I started this project to fix the problem paints I have without having to mess with trying different membranes or other possible fixes.
I hope to be able to just turn on the vibration for any problem paint.
I'll be certain to post up some progress reports.

So far yes.
But that is with only one use.
I will be using it again later this week and will test several problem paints.
I will also be building another single that vibrates.
Originally I had added a T piece of the same C channel. Bolted to the center of the main piece with spring feet also.
On this sat an electric palm sander.
But I just wasn't happy with the way it preformed and the excessive noise it generated.
I think it was too much vibration and vibrating too fast for what I needed/wanted.
The hot glue does help keep the noise down a bit but still vibrates enough.
Plastic straight on aluminum without some sort of buffer is a bit loud.
I do want to try the speed controller.
These motors may not need to run 100% all the time.
Maybe there is a sweet spot somewhere in the vibration speed for some of these paints?
Then I need to try it with my 2" x 12" tall cups.

Haven't looked too closely into this yet but when I first saw the video I instantly thought of using it on a fishing jig?
Going to have to price this stuff and see if I can get some.
A real chrome looking brushed on finish.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2015201105435926&id=1547188775570497
OK looked it up and at $699 a pint I think it's outta my price range!!
Still pretty cool though.

Usually I use whatever random scrap I have on hand.
10 or 11 really isn't that hard.
But each mold can be a bit different in how it casts so trying it is likely the only way to know.
I do like Drop Out it gets used in all my molds.
If it just won't fill out try adding a little tin to the mix. Bullet casters use that to get fill out in bullet molds using much harder lead than you have.
I would try ~ 2% tin or so.
If you don't have tin you can sometimes find cheap pewter at thrift stores and use it. Pewter is over 90% tin.

Here is the vibrating fluid bed I built that people have asked for pictures of.
I started with a flat ABS end cap from Home Depot. I used ABS because my local store has much more ABS than PVC.
Cost was something like $2.69 each iirc.
I then drilled a small hole as close to the bottom as possible and hot glued in an aquarium valve from Petco. These valves come in a pack that was less than $3.
The cups are made using 3" ABS cut to 3.5" lengths, knockout test caps and filter membranes. In this case for membranes I used Tyvek from free USPS envelopes.
Place the cut piece of ABS on a hard surface. Place one knockout test cap in it.
Knock out the center with a hammer and discard.
Remove the outer ring and save.
Place a piece of Tyvek over the ABS and replace the test cap ring making sure the outer Tyvek is facing up into the cup.
Another test cap makes a lid for the cup when not in use.
Test caps cost me $.82 each.
ABS was left over scrap from a plumbing project but isn't that expenive. Probably $1 each for the ABS.
This completes the fluid bed portion of this build.
For the vibrating base I start with a piece of Aluminum C channel I got for free from someone else's project left over.
I used a drill press to drill holes on the edge and tapped them for screws.
I ordered tapered compression springs for feet from McMaster Carr. These are about $1 each or less iirc.
Some screws from the hardware store secure the feet. These are a few cents each.
The Vibratory motors came from eBay.
Yes they are made in China but so are all such small motors. These cost me ~$5 or less each with shipping.
These as well as the fluid beds are secured using hot glue.
Time will tell if it holds up but if not it will be easy to replace.
The wires have alligator clips on them that cost ~$1.50
I run this using a spare 12v battery I had for the vibration and a whisper 30/60 aquarium pump from Walmart.
Aquarium pump is roughly ~$15
So far it works well.
I probably have about $40 Total in this project.
I did order a speed controller for adjusting the vibration which cost ~$15 from eBay.
Not sure it's neccessary but I felt it might be a worthwhile add on.
To make it a 2" add a 3"x2" push in adapter from Home Depot and make 2" cups. Same for 1.5" cups.
This way you can use either size cup just by pulling or adding the adapter as it doesn't need to be glued in.

I prefer a fluid bed for all of my jigs.
I have three mini sand blasters but only use them to add accent colors.
I don't do spinnerbaits though just jigs.
I also put my small jigs in racks to cure.
That way excess paint if there is any will run down the hook shank where it is easier to remove.
I buy the spray guns and racks from TJ's tackle.
Best price I have found.
I keep the colors in their own jars.
Remove the jar shake out the tube then bow down the gun with the blower from my big shop air compressor when changing colors.
I use a paasche compressor made for airbrushing used at ~1psi or so for my powder guns.

The vibrator is nice though I have limited time using it so far.
I bought a couple of cheap vibratory motors off of eBay.
Just ordered a speed controller so I will hopefully have adjustable vibration.
I started with a piece of aluminium C channel added spring feet and hot glued on two fluid beds with a 12v vibratory motor hot glued on each one.
I'll get some pics when I get back from work next week.

I would but I am out of town for work for a couple of weeks.
When I get home I'll post it.
What I did was drill a small hole in the side of the 3" flat cap as close as possible to the bottom.
Insert the Aquarium valve and hot glued it in place.
Then I took a 3.5" long section of 3" ABS and inserted a knock out test cap.
I knocked out and discarded the center of the test cap.
I then removed the ring left from the test cap.
I placed a piece of Tyvek over the piece of ABS and replaced the test cap ring creating a nice tight fitting membrane.
If needed trim excess Tyvek.
The outside of the tyvek envelope should face up into the cup.
Place the cup in the endcap open end up.
Fill ~1/2 or so way with paint.
Hook up your pump via the tubing and adjust the air to your liking.
Done.
I used a Tetra whisper 30/60 aquarium pump from Walmart.
This powers 2 fluid beds one from each hose.
I use another knock out test cap unmodified as a cover for my paint cup.
I leave the paint in using one cup for each color.
The only glue used was from a hot glue gun to secure the aquarium valve.
Everything else is press fit.
For a 2" fluid bed press in a 3"x2" adapter and make a 2" fluid bed cup.
You can make cups as tall as you like.
Some of my 2" cups are 12" tall and work just fine.
I hope this explains it well enough.