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The only upper rotator in the whole NN program which has possible manual 2,5º steps is NN5.

Works fine with 70-200/f2.8 for example.

Heinz

May be someone is going to try to kill me:

If your normal set up is to start at -2.5º and then take 7.5º interval, the only thing you need to do is to change the position of the Upper rail clamp QRC55 in set up to the rotator. That means the position of the two M3 Anti Twist screws should be replaced to -2.5 position. To keep your warrenty you might think about adding a small plate in between QRC55 and Rotator base. One side with antitwist screws in normal position to go to the rotator, in the other side with wholes for the Anti Twist screw of QRC-55 in -2,5º. So if you use the big boy, just add the plate and you start at -2,5º. That would give the M1 a chance for your own wishes and workflow. Of course you have to get a longer screw for QRC-55 to Rotator with the plate in between. Thickness of the plate would be the height of the M3 Anti Twist Screw's head. Am I right?

I just had some minutes to check it on the rails: M1-L, CP-U3 D90, Nikkor 10.5. no Nadir Adapter. It will work for you to shoot zenith shot at +90º with an upper rail setting up to 118mm. To know for other lenses beside 10.5. Beyond this, you have to shoot 2x +60º 180º visa versa because camera will bump into lower rail.

D90 and nikkor 10.5 or 16mm won't show the upper rail in picture. URS = Upper rail setting for D90 10.5 is 78mm, so plenty of room for the zenith. Only Sigma 8mm/f3.5 and Samyang 8mm/f3.5 will show the upper rail in the viewfinder, but not in the stitched panorama.

In case you really need something in between -15/-7.5º pitch and in case you are a little bit handy and have some machines, you could add an adapter plate in between upper rotator clamp and upper rotator. You could try to add additional steps like -5º or -10º by drilling in Anti Twist Screw Sockets for those of the upper rotator clamp. It would be a round alum plate in diameter of upper rotator. Thickness 5mm to take the thread of the new Anti Twist Screw.. On the side of the rotator you add two anti twist screws standing out of the plate using the rotators anti twist screw sockets. May be you have to get a longer center screw to fix the clamp to upper rotator. May be you know somebody who can do this for you.

You have to try the settings on your own right now, cause my settings are all done with Nadir Adapter. This means another vertical rail set up as well.

I see you have the D90 and 10.5mm amongst your vast collection. You say that the URS for this config is 78mm; what LRS do you use? (Edit: Since you have the D300s, maybe you don't use the D90 on the M1) Even though I don't have the nadir adapter, my settings should be the same as yours because the nadir adapter just extends the vertical rail height, along the rotational axis, right?

I will use Smooth's buzz saw method to confirm my settings, but it'd be good to have a decent starting point.

Comparing set ups will be difficult cause we have to exactly know what set up is used. I'll will remount my M1-L to try to get exact measurements with / without use of Nadir Adapter this afternoon. I will let you know.

Normally I use D3. Lighter cameras on pole. Not so much money in case you crash, plus less torque in 6m height. So easier to handle. Now I use D7000 on top of it instead of D90.

You really don't need anybody else's settings to start with. It takes about one minute to adjust the LRS to within a mm or so by pointing the camera down and adjusting the rail position so that the centre focus spot in the viewfinder is on the centre screw of the pano head.

Actually don't worry about it thanks mate.. you're right, it's hard to exactly know, and I need to confirm it anyway so there's not much point wasting your time. :)

I received the head today, surprisingly. I have assembled it, pulled my square out and think I have it pretty well dialled in. But I'm not sure about the exact location of the NPP on the 10.5mm. 2mm or 3mm behind the gold ring?

I just see your post John, yes I agree. Thanks for the suggestion re. pointing down.

I will do the first test pano shortly.

First impressions: The strength, build quality and finish of this head is absolutely stunning. The dove-tails are exceptional. The RD8 is confidence inspiring. The whole rig is so solid and tight. Quick release plates are ultra tough. Well done Nick, I am highly impressed.

With that said, so far I'm not a big fan of the upper rotator. Like I said earlier, -7.5 degrees can often be not quite enough, yet -15 degrees is in my opinion quite excessive, at least with the 10.5mm. I'm getting a lot of the lower rail in frame, and, unfortunately I was sent a 65mm lower rail clamp, so it is in frame too. I will replace it with a 55mm. What's more, I just don't need that small of a nadir footprint.. especially at the expense of the zenith. -7.5 is good for most shoots, but -10 or probably -12 would be ideal for tight spaces.

If your final stitch does not have the lower rail in the picture, there is not a problem. I have the lower rail in all my pictures taken on the M1. The final panorama does not have the lower rail visible anywhere.

With that said, so far I'm not a big fan of the upper rotator. Like I said earlier, -7.5 degrees can often be not quite enough, yet -15 degrees is in my opinion quite excessive, at least with the 10.5mm. I'm getting a lot of the lower rail in frame, and, unfortunately I was sent a 65mm lower rail clamp, so it is in frame too. I will replace it with a 55mm. What's more, I just don't need that small of a nadir footprint.. especially at the expense of the zenith. -7.5 is good for most shoots, but -10 or probably -12 would be ideal for tight spaces.

Ok, I will offer a workaround to allow you to offset the horizon by ~3 deg, then you can get -10 deg. But you will get same offset in every interval, including the zenith/ nadir shot. I hope it won't be a new problem for you.