Description

Bingham describes this as "one of the best crack pitches in the park". With a description like that, I had to give it a try. It is worth the effort, if you are in the area.

This climb liebacks an incredible dihedral with multiple stepped roofs. The route is very pumpy for the grade and will eat .5 and .75 camalots.

The anchor situation is a little funky on this climb. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab, but no clear way to reach it. You could continue to the top of the formation, but the slabs above are loose and runout. The best option is to step to the left and rap off a chicken head. Bring some extra webbing just in case.

Location

This right facing corner is found on the lower tier of the Great wall and just left of a large triangular roof.

awesome climb! we found this gem exploring the inner city the other day, and had no idea of the rating. I climbed to the top of the formation going over the roof directly above the corner via a chickenhead/tree maneuver. We rapped back down off another tree to see the chain anchor on the face. DOH!

I can't believe I never knew of this route till the other day. What a great 9+/10a crack. Definitely one of the best cracks at the city. As much as I like thin slice or bloodyfingers they are really mostly face routes with cracks. Not this one. The crux for me was the first few moves getting in to the crack. Funky anchor off right on the slab but it's easy to get to really once you see it. Wish this crack was longer but that's not unusual at the city to wish for more. Go do it you won't be disappointed.