Sam Sifton Compares SD26 to a Second Wife; Casa Lever Lures a Power Scene

“SD26 is the restaurant equivalent of a second wife: younger, considerably more nervous, dressed in a way that might raise eyebrows in the social circles the original restaurant was opened to serve,” says Sam Sifton, who finds some excellent dishes on the menu. [NYT]
Related: A Closer Look at SD26, Designed Via Miraculous Conception

Casa Lever is “the physical manifestation of a lifestyle — a jet-set spin on Italian café culture embodied by the dapper pair who run the place,” writes Jay Cheshes. The “longtime Sant Ambroeus chef who gets no billing on the menu or website, seems to have brought his A-game to the venture.” [TONY]
Related: A First Look at Casa Lever, Coming to Lever House Next Week

“Casa Lever restaurant is already a packed house, even though better, cheaper, quasi-Italian fare is available elsewhere. It’s a sign that bonuses are back when dinner crowds are willing to pay top dollar for architecture,” says Ryan Sutton. [Bloomberg]

“The Vanderbilt departs from the homey, carefully worn aesthetic that generally prevails on this strip; the feeling is sleekly industrial and spacious,” writes Andrea Thompson. She liked the small plates with Asian accents, but “everything came out in a rush, giving the meal a race-to-the-finish feel.” [NYer]