The travelogue continues from day third here. In
my previous blog I shared my experience with the prerequisites, exercises,
acclimatization, routine and stuff. It’s time we begin our real trek.

After the very hectic graduation years, this
break was a must-have-break-else-you-will-die break for me. My situation was
best described in this song.

Aaj Kal Jindagi
Mujhase Hai Keh Rahi

Tu Jo Meri Maane Toh
Chal Deewaane Sapano Ki Raahon Mein Tu

Saari Khushbuo Saari
Roshani Ko Le Le Inn Baahon Mein Tu

Abb Hai Tu Jahaan, Din
Raat Saare Naye Hain

Aaraju Jawaan Jasbaat
Saare Naye Hai

Pehchaane Saari
Muskaane Saari Bhar Le Nigaahon Mein Tu O Ho

Tere Liye Nayi Hai
Jamin Naya Aasmaan

Likh De Hawaao Pe Koyi
Nayi Daastaan

-Shankar, Ehsan, Loy
(Wake Up Sid!, 2009)

Beautiful waterfall during YHAI Sarpass Trek 2014

Certainly things were all new. This was my first
Himalayan Trek. More like backpacking as I was completely unaware of the
location and packed everything in 2 days. Guys who accompanied me were all new
to me, coming from every corner of the India. And it was Himachal Pradesh – The
Land of God! Even the nearest police station was at distant 15 km from Kasol
base camp. So, rare were the crimes!!

Today was the day when we were about to depart
for the trek and bid adieu to YHAI’s Kasol base camp. We all woke up with ease
today. No exercises! No hurry! No standing in bathroom lines! And no feeling of
Neil Armstrong!

By 0700 hours we submitted our blankets. Had
breakfast. Drank water. Pee-ed! Packed the luggage. Fall in. Gave attendance
and by 0815 hours we were waving goodbye to the camp, walking aligned in a line;
with SP-35 and SP-36 group waving us goodbye and wishing best luck. The claps
were so reverberating that for a moment my ears skipped the gushing sound of
Parvati river. Just like soldiers, we were saying hola to the base camp, which reminded me of another song-

Kandho se milate hain
kandhe, kadmon se kadam milte hain

Hum chalte hain jab
aise toh dil dushman ke hilte hain

-Shankar, Ehsan, Loy
(Lakshya, 2004)

But neither our shoulders were aligning (kandho se kandhe) to each other (as the
guys were as tall as Himanshu and Shreenidhi, and as short as me) and nor we
were having any enemies (dil dushman ke
hilte hain).

We were now on the same path as we were a day
before for rock-climbing and rappelling. Slowly I decided to start conversation
with every possible guy and know about each other. A little of KT (knowledge
transfer) process.

Parvati River with snow-clad Himalayan range in backdrop

I approached the front-runner in the group, Chandrakanth.
He was very calm, as if he is alone in the trek. A small grin on his face and
broad moustache. I was unable to find the topic to discuss with him. This
generally happens with me, when I share very distinct social and psychological
background with someone. It’s tough to initiate the talk. So, while starting
conversation with Chandrakanth same happened. I ended up with a discussion on Naxal
groups in his region. We talked about Prabhakaran. Veerappan from Satyamangalam
and Yeddyurappa from Shimoga. We nicknamed Chandrakanth as Prabhakaran (Founder
and Leader of Liberations Tigers of Tamil Eelam) hereforth he will be called as
Prabhakaran in my blog as well.

The next person I talked was Reshma Di, she works
in TCS (that I came to know on the very last day of trekking). The only motto
of mine for coming to this trek was to refresh my brain and stay disconnected
with the world. Not to think about any other thing beside where to put the next
step over the path. To enjoy each and every moment; without any brainstorming.
In talking I realized she had been to a Himalayan trek before; Her Ki Doon. She
shared her great experience with me. The kind of a trek it was. What kinds of challenges
she faced.

Then she explained her wish-list of treks and
shared the same with me. I was mesmerized to know that someone does have their
own trek wish-list. WOW!!

We kept on moving! The forest was getting denser.
Trees were giving the mirage of the horizon. River was streaming against us. I
was pretty ahead so decided to take some slow shutter shots of river flow.

!!!!SP-34 group at the height of 13,800 feet!!!!

While doing this exercise I found the first love
of my trek – my ‘STICK’wati...!! I found a very nice wooden stick by the river
bank. It was all destined, I started believing one shot from movie Zindagi Na
Milegi Dobara – sab likha hua hau, ye
trek, ye lakdi ka milna! Sab likha hua hain. The only difference was that I
was not drunk alike Hritik Roshan.

At a very beautiful juncture where the river
takes a Kejriwal turn (U-turn) in the valley. Most of the people were resting, few
were posing, few photographing. Meanwhile me, Himanshu and Nagarjun were in
talks with guide bhaiya. He shared his very piece of information which was very
useful.

And then I struck with the catastrophe; someone
threw my ‘STICK’wati in the water for some photography experiment. The first
thing I thought of was to throw his camera in the water for some splashing
experiment. But then my ANGEL mind said that there might be some photographs of
me in the same camera. So, anger swallowed and apology accepted. Lost the first
love of the trek. But life is beautiful when we accept the condition and
move-on with it instead of making all the efforts to make any changes.

Circumstances do not define us, our reaction to
them does!!

Then I meet a very versatile personality,
Shreenidhi D S that’s how he writes his name. I was about to ask him – Did
Nikon launches its DS range cameras asking him?? My ANGEL part of brain struck
my conscience that this should not be the right one-liner to hit the
conversation. So instead I started with a cliché – what you do?? He said –
WRITING!! And I was like dude, I am asking what you do for your living?? But
his answer was straight and clear. He was a script writer of one of the most
famous Kannada serial ‘Ashwini
Nakshatram’which
is telecasted on ETV Kannada.

Seriously, this dude writes for his living. And
then during the trek I got to know a lot more about Shreenidhi bhaiya. Felt
good to have him accompanying me.

Thereafter, I don’t remember having any
conversation with anyone else.

With the failed first love of this trek I was
offered with new ‘STICK’wati by the same guy who threw it in the water. This
was my arranged marriage! I accepted it full heartily. I got my new companion. The
only problem with that stick was that, that it was equal to my height and
everyone was laughing at me. All I can do was to compare myself was with Kali from movie Kaal – Kyuki kali ko kaal
kabhi dhokha nahi deta!

Just like Chandler does in ‘The One with The Joke’
episode of F.R.I.E.N.D.S of noting down his jokes to avoid them stealing from
Ross. I was writing everything in my small diary. But my reason was being able
to write one blog like this even after 6 months of the trek.

As we were heading ahead in the trek the
structure of stones was changing and some of them appeared like Paapmani from our childhood superhero serial
Shaktimaan. In adult-world we will
call them limestone and quartz. The only man-made things were pipelines and
electric poles.

Candid shot YHAI Sarpass Trek 2014 -1

I then thought of drinking the fresh Himalayan
water (which Bisleri mineral water sells – Advt tagline), but guide prohibited
saying that he knows a place where water is more fresh. I bet Bisleri is
unaware of it. Somewhere in the route an ice-cream seller crossed us. He was
carrying a cylinder, an ice-cream cart and music was playing. To my surprise,
he was playing Hindi songs. I was missing songs way too badly. In conversation
with him, he told me that he actually belongs to Bihar (so no surprise if he
was listening to Hindi songs) and lives at Grahan and takes mere 2 hours to
reach our base camp; for same we YOUNGSTERS were taking over 8 hours.

Around 1335 hours we got some glimpse of
Himalayan snow and peaks. And then we had our lunch beside river. A guy was
already sitting there with maggi and cold drinks to sell. The general talk with
our guide continued. His name was Jaychand. I found Chand very common with
people here. For a second I even thought if these guys are having a cold war
with the Hedge family surname.

While everyone was having lunch I invested my
time in sharpening and caressing my ‘STICK’wati. With the help of a grater I
tried making it plain and reduced its length. While having a brief talk with
three musketeers – Mallesha, Pritham and Vinay. They were all lying down with
their bag pack as a pillow.

And from nowhere Chinmay bhaiya came with
gilli-danda game. All of us had danda
and the broken piece of by stick became gilli.
The rules were quite clear, you can only hit the gilli in straight drive and if hit in the forest then out. At that
exact moment all I wanted was a Firebolt broomstick, fastest magical broomstick
from Harry Potter. But being a Muggle, I don’t have access to Dungeon Valley. The
second option was drinking Red Bull – because it gives us wings. But this act
meant loss of faith in trek. But even without this I managed to catch a couple
of catches. Situational song at this very moment-

Dil Dil Mein Hai

Dil Ki Tamanna Sau!

Dhoop Khile Jism Garam
Sa Hai

Suraj Yahin Yeh Bharam
Sa Hai

Bhikri Hui Rahein
Harazon Sau

Thamo Koi Phir
Bhatanke Do!

Uljhe Nahi To Kaise
Suljhoge

Bikhre Nahi To Kaise
Nihkroge

Hawa Zara Si Lagne Do

Soya Tha Abb Jagne Do

Pankhon Ko Hawa Zara
Si Lagne Do!

-Salim Merchant,
Sulaiman Merchant (Salesman of the Year, 2009)

Now our next destination was Grahan camp, 7700
feet. The floor now turned from rock to sand. Footmarks of goats, khacchar, sheep were replaced by
footmarks of WoodLand, Nike, Puma and Reebok.

I again engaged myself in talks with our new
guide, Karamchand. Another Chand. His body smelt like rotten eggs. I don’t
think he had bathed since his last summer. I was also deprived of bath from
over 5 days. I was all engaged in talking with him and possibly he forgot that
he has the responsibility of over 40 people to guide. Most of the people were
lagging behind. The guys behind us were huffing and puffing. If they were left
with any energy, it was being utilized in shouting to slow down or best stop.
And I got first compliment from Karamchand that I am a strong guy. He said – hatta-katta jawan hain!

Then we passed some sheep herds and then
beautiful mountain ranges. Some mountain patches witnessed landslides. The road
was now inclined. With few water streams from where we refilled our water
bottles.

Reaching the place some huts and people were
visible. Then there was an Israeli couple who was walking towards Grahan. The
guy’s name was Nadaf. Had a small conversation with them and they were very
happy with the beauty of Himalayas. I thanked them for the appreciation and
wished them good luck. After walking a few metres Rajesh Kumar was the guy I
continued my trek with till Grahan. He was a worker and a farmer. He was
building homes during winter in the valleys and during the summer was a farmer.

Once you reach Grahan, you will be surprised to
see the built and structure of houses. All made of rocks and wood only. With
very beautiful carved artistic works on the doors and windows. People sitting
roadside and calves eating fodder. The smell of cow-dung filling the nostrils.

The main attraction of Grahan was an ancient awesomely
carved wooden temple. Then we literally captured the tents. Our tent location
was in the middle of two snowless mountains and Sivalik range was visible from
there and beside it was the Sarpass range. Awesome view it was!

Camp commander welcomed us with the hot tomato
soup and then for a ‘SMALL’ address to us. He said our batch reached before
time and our batch was first doing so irrespective of having over 12 girls in
our group!! We all cheered and then he continued his ‘SMALL’ address. And
continued!! And continued!! And was not even close to ending. He seems to be a
girl to me now with all talkative and chivalry qualities he imbibed.

He gave a nice and happy piece of information
that the temperature will be low here as compared to Kasol base camp. And it
was because of the huge mountain ranges between Sivalik Range and our tent
site. They were working as a barrier for cold breezes. Vice versa of Kasol base
camp where the chilling breeze of Parvati range was hitting us directly without
any obstruction.

Then we did some photo shoots, had dinner and
went off to sleep by 2100 hours.

Sunset was most beautiful here!!

Sunset at Grahan Camp during YHAI Sarpass Trek

Day
4: 6thJune, 2014 – On
the way to Padri

The first task we did in the early morning was to
protect the Pakistan. Due to heavy wind and rain the toilets that were made of
clothes were devastated and one person has to compulsorily stand outside or
else sing song & become toilet singer. Tea was out and as I went to take I
overheard the song-

Umeedo Ke Suraj

Nikale Chaaron Aur

Iraade Hain Folaadi

Himmati Har Kadam

Apne Haatho Kismat
Likhane

Aaj Chale Hain Hum..

-Anish Sharma, Shubham
Mahadevan (Dhoom 3, 2013)

I saw the mountain ranges were much similar to
those that we used to draw in childhood. It was the 8th day in a row without
bath and I was happy with that.

We then gathered and fall-in. Our chivalry camp
captain leader with emphatic looks wished us good luck and we departed.

Our new guide was Hukum Chand, OOPS!! I mean
Humum Singh. Finally a guide without Chand in end. A small bio of him.

He is the ‘khoji’
of this path and standing with a straight spine at the age of 57. There is one
more route to the Sarpass. It’s from Khalipasss via Mandi. With him I got a
hell lot of information. Population of Grahan is close to 500 people. To cut
trees for the houses you require permission.

I started asking him about every flora on the
way. Kaleshi, a flower used to make
juice. Shambal, a yellow flower tree
was used for treating the eyes. Haham,
etching plant, good for blood. Arsada,
white poisonous juice. Kharsh, wood
my stick was made of.

With this hell lot of Ayurvedic information I
meet Khasil. He was selling Ayurvedic medicines. When I shared this knowledge
with him, his expression was like Obama if a normal Indian tells him about the NSA
scandal in the year 2012.

By now we travelled around two and half
kilometre. From Grahan we descended and again rose to find ourselves at same
altitude where Grahan Camp was located. That was a bit frustrating.

Sunrise at 4 am at Padri camp YHAI Sarpass Trek

It was 1120 hours by now and we were told to have
a tea-break. On the route we can find tea-stalls selling many edibles. Maggi,
cold drinks and stuff. By then we were at the height of 8300 feet. All of a
sudden I decided to make Maggi of my own in that ambience. I poured water into
the vessel and at the right temperature slowly put the maggi cubes in it. Maggi
masala being the integral part of the making. Put my timer for 2 minutes and
just after two minutes I poured whole Maggi into the plate.

I was expecting a yummylicious taste. But to my
distress the maggi was still raw. I thought of launching a lawsuit on the
company. But then, thought that at such height it takes some more time for food
to cook due to low atmospheric pressure. Cancelled the law suit and enjoyed the
taste!!

The seller was having a red coloured juice. After
inquiring, we got to know that it is known as the Brass. It is made of a flower and has the medicinal character
which helps to digest food.

In my continuing discussion with Hukum Singh he
told me that Grahan is also known as Thunja, which means wheat in their
language. And the people living there are called Manala.

Around 1330 hours we had our lunch at the height
of 8533 feet. The mosses on the trees were getting denser. After a short stop
there; Bhanvna, Vainshnavi and I sang Tinka Tinka Jara Jara song. While I was
lost in showing-off my hidden talent I lost my pen. And this was a bigger blow
than losing my authentic stick couple of days back. Thanks to Bhavna for doing
the best favour for me by giving me her pen.

FUN UNLIMITED!!!

In the next half hour we reached our destination
– Padri!! The camp location was just fantabulous. Even Shakespeare would fail
in explaining it to the world. Tents were rooted on a grassland plain facing huge
snow-clad Sarpass mountain range. By the time we reached there it was sunset
time. As the sun was setting, the snow on the Himalayas was showing its vibrant
colours.

We were watching the colours of the sky changing
from blue to yellow to orange to black. Snow’s was more dramatic. Snow was
turning from white to yellow to gold to purple and finally to blue.

We were tired but still managed to play some
awesome games suggested by Bhanvna. In the first game I was the winner and
second game ended in draw as Mr. Cheater a.k.a Mallesha played some tricks. A
song that was describing us perfectly-

Hum Raahi Jab Ho
Mastaana

Mauj Mein Ho Dil
Deewana

Phir Chalne Waale
Rukte Hain Kahan

Yeh khumar yeh nasha
jawan bekhudi

Ab na koi nagar na koi
gali din vahan rat yahan

-Udit Narayan, Hema
Sardesai (Pukar, 2000)

Soon after dinner heavy clouds started gathering
all over the sky and heavy winds started blowing. We were told by the camp
captain to collect as many as and as heavy stones as possible and make sure
they support tents.

We were so dreaded that we started digging the
whole landscape like gold-miners dig for gold. Few stones were taking two guys in
place. Tents were still drifting and roving with heavy winds. But we were in
relief when the wind speed reduced. Meanwhile, I meet Mr. Ashwath Nadahalli,
the entrepreneur guy who has his own company. He has his own company. Plus a
data scientist, and plus a very nice and helpful guy. I was happy to share my
tent with him.

As the sun set, the stars started twinkling.
Before sleeping, I decided to wake-up early and take some photos of our Milky
Way.

Our own Milky Way stripping from Soutn to North

To my surprise 100s of people have been already
out there in the morning, doing some rituals of their God. Later we found out
that it was the annual festival in which they take their God in the height of the
Himalayan Mountains and do all the ritual proceedings.

I took some awesome photos of our Milky Way and
then went back to sleep.

This shall be the end of my Sarpass travelogue.
There are still many stories to tell, experiences to share and things to explore,
but the constraint of time is the only thing in-between. Let’s hope if I can
write the next part someday in future.

I am also thankful of all of you guys for making
my trek the best ever trek till date.

My apology goes to all for posting this blog
after 6 months. I know there were many expectations from my blog, which I
couldn’t fulfil. Many stories remained untold. Gripping nostalgia just lost its
flow. Will try if I can continue writing the next sequel.
Till then, CIAO!! Hope we will have one more trek soon.

Candid photo YHAI Sarpass Trej 2014 - 2

God of the Manala people from Grahan

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