I'm a shiny new newb who is about to take custody of a Ruger 10/22, has a rifle cleaning kit for a 22 rifle, and not a clue about how to use it. I hope I've posted this in the right place, as I tried hard earlier to find the right section for this.

Unfortunately, the store that sold me the items (and it was a fairly reputable one in the area) was not very helpful or interested in telling me how to use it, other than verifying that in fact I had all of the required parts.

I've done about a billion Google and Youtube searches, and while I'm pretty familiar now with how to break down the rifle and access it's parts, install a buffer bolt, extended magazine, etc., I'm just not sure about the order of things to actually clean the darn thing or how to use the parts (the one thing the videos seem to omit. Even Wikipedia doesn't have anything, and it's starting to get pretty frustrating, as if it were some great secret or something very obvious I should know. I just really don't want to screw up anything or mess up my muzzle (I read that was important). :eek:

Parts on hand:

Gunslick 22lr all-inclusive cleaning kit, with:
cotton patches
ultra-lube gun oil
cleaning solution
some kind of brass brush that screws on
some kinds of soft brush that screws on
a pointy plastic screw-on thing
another plastic screw-on thing that apparently the swab gets on somehow (i saw a youtube video for someone's patented pull-through system that apparently demos how to get the swab on there)
a plastic thing that might be a muzzle guard? sort of like a tiny funnel
a metal rod with a handle
2 more metal rods that appear to screw on to the first one

So how does this work? Can anyone help explain the process, and from which end of the gun I should clean? (muzzle?) Yep, that's how clueless I am. :confused:

Shooting-wise, I think I'm ok, used to shoot in scouts and understand gun safety. It's just that I never had to actually clean the guns, and now that I own one (two, actually, Russian M44 also coming, but that's another story), I want it to stay in shape.

Many thanks in advance! :)

Lon Moer

09-01-2008, 10:58 AM

Rim Fire Central (rimfirecentral.com)

bigwhiteguy_27

09-01-2008, 10:51 PM

This is the URL to the 10/22 User's Manual:

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/InstructionManuals/18.pdf

It covers disassembly on page 24, and cleaning on page 26.

chsk9

09-02-2008, 12:48 AM

My intense cleaning regiment for the 10/22 is as follows: Spray boresnake with some lubricant (no...not personal lubricant you sickos...) boresnake it 1-2 times and put it away...

domokun

09-02-2008, 1:48 AM

+1 on using the Boresnake. I'll field strip and clean after a lot of use but for the most part I'll just run the boresnake through a few times to get all the fresh gunk out of the barrel and be done with it.

nic

09-02-2008, 6:48 AM

I agree on the boresnake idea for cleaning that barrel. This eliminates the need to clean the bore from the muzzle end and potentially damaging your crown.
On my 10/22, I will also clean the receiver/bolt with some CLP, then lube it lightly with the same.
-Nic

MILLITIAof1

09-02-2008, 7:18 AM

you actually have to clean em?

ohsmily

09-02-2008, 9:32 AM

That is definitely a n00b question. Every experienced shooter knows that you do not clean 10/22s. ;)

sb_pete

09-02-2008, 11:51 AM

There have been previous threads covering this same topic. Rather recently too IIRC.

Usually a spray of Gunscrubber (or similar) into the action and then a wipe down from the mag well and some CLP is enough for the action. and a boresnake through the barrel will suffice.

Personally, I disassemble the rifle to clean every 500 rds or so. Mine is a target model with a bull barrel and no barrel band.

1. remove takedown screw (flathead screw on bottom of stock), and take the barreled action out of the stock. I wipe down the inside of the stock and occasionally put a little mineral oil into the unfinished inside of the stock (emphasis on occasionally and a LITTLE). If you have a barrel band you would loosen and remove that as well.

2. I remove the barrel (2 allen head screws in barrel clamp and the barrel comes right out). There is no need to worry about headspacing or anything like that. This makes the barrel easy to clean from the chamber end. I use CLP to clean. Spray some CLP in, run wet Wet patch, run brush back and forth 10 times, run dry patch or two, repeat till clean and shiny bore is acheived.

3. The trigger assembly comes out by drifting out the two pins and the bolt buffer. If you don't own brass drifts or such, then allen keys and a small hammer can be (carefully) substituted. This I spray down liberally with Gunscrubber (or similar) and then spray with CLP for lube.

4. The bolt and charging handle can then be removed easily by pulling back till it is at the rear of its travel, then pulling it down and out. Careful because reassembly is a bit of a [female dog] - with practice it becomes easy though. Then the bolt can be cleaned like the trigger assembly and the empty receiver is very easy to clean till nice and shiny now.

5. Reassemble and lube with CLP.

A few other tips:

1. buy a one piece cleaning rod. Yes, it makes that much of a difference. Dewey rods are my favorite.

2. I prefer the round cotton cleaning patches. I find them easier to consistently push through. They clean the same as the square ones, but are more consistent in the amount of force required to push through.

3. Screw whatever solution and oil came with your little kit. That stuff will work, but Gunscrubber and Breakfree CLP will work better and faster.

4. When your brush is dirty, spray it with Gunscrubber (or brake cleaner) over a paper towel/newspaper/etc., then re-soak in CLP.

5. Wipe down the rod after each pass.

6. Stick an empty water bottle over the barrel if you can. This will catch spray from the brush and catch the dirty patches you push through.

7. Eventually you will need to deal with copper/lead fouling. There are many solutions for this. Most of them are quite noxious. This is like every 5k rounds for me, so it is not at all often.

8. Use a well-ventilated work environment.

9. Use that little "plastic thing that might be a muzzle guard? sort of like a tiny funnel" It will protect your chamber or muzzle from dings which will affect accuracy.