Setting up the door frame

Get your door and framing material. If you are not a carpenter, this is a
great time to invite a carpenter friend over to give you a hand. When you've
built the foundation to the bottom of the door opening, set up the door frame,
attach it to the foundation, level it, and brace it well. Putting the door
frame up as you build the foundation and before you start cobbing saves you
future headaches. You'll be assured that the frame for the door will fit well
against the foundation and the cob. Carefully build the foundation to the frame.
You can fill in any gaps between the frame and the foundation with cob later.
Add the keying system to the frame so that it will be attached to the cob as
you build. (See page 111 for details about keying systems.)

If you are doing a poured foundation, bury bolts into the concrete to attach
the door frame to.

There will be a potential rot spot where the wood door frame comes closest
to touching the ground. Handle with care.

Raise the frame off the ground with a flat stone or sturdy brick. Make sure
that whatever you use will not get in the way when the door swings open.

Planning for a future addition

If you want to add another room in the future, extend the foundation for the
addition while you are building the present foundation. (You don't have to build
it all, just the first 1-2 feet.) This will ensure a strong connection between
the two stages of the foundation.

Make a second threshold and door frame leading into the future addition.

If you haven't found a door yet, make the opening to fit a common sized door.
Leave the door open for easier access while building. Then insulate and board
up the opening, or have two future addition outside doors until you add on.
(See page 100 for more on future additions.)

Other things to think about

Where the wall makes a sharp curve, it is naturally strong. The wall
and the foundation at a curve can be slightly thinner (to save material and
labor) than under the straighter parts of the wall.

Make the foundation and the wall extra-wide at door openings and in heavy
support areas.

If you plan on a very heavy roof, like ceramic or concrete tiles, add an
extra inch or two of width in the supporting walls for good luck.

The foundation under interior walls can be less substantial than for the
outside walls, because there will be no need for protection from moisture
or frost. Unless the interior walls will have the job of supporting
the loft or roof weight, they can be thinner (8 to 10 inches at
the base, at least 5 inches at the top.) Again, remember you can curve
these walls for strength.

Any buttresses you're planning will need foundations under them.
(See design section, page 13 for more information about buttresses.) Built-in
furniture that will be against the wall can have its foundations built into
the main foundation at the same time, and can serve as little buttresses.
Because built-in furniture will be supporting much less weight than a wall,
it will need a less substantial foundation.