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I got my blaster courtesy of Sindwinder a few weeks ago and boy I'm excited!
I've slowly been putting it together and realized I know nothing about the mechanics of a gun. Trying to get this trigger to be functional might take a little longer than I thought.
Also I found a scope today at the sporting goods store up the street and I think it works pretty well. It's not a Nikko Stirling Mount Master but it is a type of ASI. With the 4X20mm specifications. It's 10 and 1/4 inches long which makes it 3/4 of an inch short, but at first glance you would never know the difference!
I'm planning on doing a few mods to it and I was wondering if anyone else might be interested in what I'm going to do?
I plan on carving a new stock out of walnut(which is what most stocks are made from), and I plan on having the "D" bracket laser cut from a piece of steel.
ANy takers on a new stock or maybe a solid "D" bracket? Let me know.
I'll have some pricing at the start of next week.
Thanks again to Simon Sindwinder for all of his detail work. I couldn't have done this without him!

Okay, so the metal "D" bracket is being made and I'm still seeking out a nice piece of walnut to make my stock, but all of this has given me a bit of time to do the weathering on my blaster. I had to put "St. Boba" down for a bit before I killed myself.
So here goes!
First I coated the entire thing in silver to give the appearance of being made of metal.
Then I went back with acrylic paint and repainted the whole thing black.
Next I took a exacto knife and scraped off a bunch of spots to expose some of the silver underneath.
Then last I applied a very washed out rust tone with a small paintbrush.
...And voila! You have an old-*** looking gun.

PS. I took the cap off of my deodorant spray can to make the muzzle of the gun.
It's a little big but I think I'll keep it.

The whole thing is a 4-coat process.
1. Silver coat base. (spray can)
2. High gloss clear coat. (spray can)
3. Flat black base coat. (Hand brushed with acrylic)
3.5 Go back with an exacto and scrape off parts of the black.
4. Take a fine tip brush and do a very very light wash of "Testors" rust colored enamel. I watered down my brush quite a bit. Then I went back into the little corners and filled in a little more rust.

That's about it.

SinisterFett said:

The weathering on that thing is mad!!
Could I ask you how you did the rust effect and what you used, as I'm in the process of weathering my scratch built EE-3 blaster.

I went out and bought some walnut the other day and have started carving out the stock for my blaster. I bought enough wood for 2 stocks and will be carving and extra if anyone is interested in a new stock. Hit me up.

Beautiful work on that wood! How are you going to make the slot for the mounting tang? That is the challenge to me.

Since, I am considering taking a stab at wood working myself for my EE-3. Here is my gun so far (I did it pretty fast too, in 45 minutes, I made the ESB-styled EE-3 below with a $9.99 plastic toy 38 special, a $6.99 Daisy 4X scope, a 1.5" PVC coupling, a piece of pipe, and an inexpensive – $5.00-to-$7.00 – chromed pipe drain piece)...

And here are my templates (which are being laser cut next week) for the scope attachments, Molex boxes, and the stock greeblies. If you like, I can have a set of the butt stock greeblies fabricated for a great price. LMK.

John

suspect86 said:

I started doing the actual carving part of my stock today. So far I'm very happy with the results.
Here are a few comparisons to the resin stock as supplied by Sidewinder.