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41748102701 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 41748102701 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

washer would not go into full speed spinning

Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

Bellows was mildewed

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

Washer was shipped by military. When it didn't work right I looked online and was told it might be the bolt for the shock so I ordered the part because the cost was nominal and called a repairman. Found out that in shipping moving bolts were installed. There was I sticker on the back of machine to explain but I didn't read it. Took out moving bolts and it works fine. The machine was missing one stabilizing foot and I did order that at the same time and I installed it easily.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Glass panel shattered.

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Replaced the bolt at the center of the belt pulley and replaced the belt

Note on my Easy rating- I had to replace the belt a few years ago and it was tough to get it on the pulley. This time it went quickly. Unplug, remove back plate. Replaced stripped out pulley bolt which had become loose. Could not find a torque value. Placed belt on motor and worked it around the pulley with a regular screwdriver to keep it from slipping off. No problem, but last time I changed the belt I used vice grips to lightly hold the belt to the pulley while walking the pulley around with two screwdrivers leveraged against the tub. While I was working I discovered that both of the tub shock absorbers were broken. Parts on order.

Uncontrollable shaking/bouncing

I simply read what another person wrote, which was ; Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock.(I didnt have to do this part. I got this from front, bottom panel) Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new. ( it was just this easy)

First we took the pump off and it was full so we hoped replacing it as the fan blades were broke and it didn't help. We replaced the control board and that didn't change it either. So I checked here and the door strike and door switch could be the problem so I ordered and put them on that was the problem. Thanks so much. Instructions were well printed and the job was about 5 minutes to replace. The washer works perfectly. We should have started with these parts first and it may not have cost so much.

Washer would not go into spin cycle

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Two broken shocks

Unplug. Remove front lower cover panel. The trick is getting the old pins out and the solution was the alternate method provided in the written instructions that came with the shock kit. Use a deep 13mm or 1/2" socket over the pin end to depress the locking tab. After that, it is just a matter of prying the pins out. I was able to salvage all of my existing pins and the new (different design which will hopefully hold up much better) shocks went in pretty easily. The shock kit was reasonably priced but replacement pin were incredibly overpriced, so I was motivated to salvage the ones installed.

The drain house was penetrated by a piece of metal from coin catcher

I took off the face and top of washer changed the drain hose.and put it back together and it started leaking .word to the wise. mmake sure the back side of the drain hose that is not visable is all the way on then tighten.

I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out