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The reason for the prop testing is that I am looking for a prop with a little more holeshot because last year, I found the limits of my stock prop. I had 1400 lbs of ballast full and 7 adults on the boat plus 1 behind the boat that I was trying to get up on a wakeboard. It took about two minutes for the boat to plane out.

The first prop is the stock prop. The second prop was recommended by my dealer (the OJ version) as well as by nettle props (the Acme version) as a good upgrade from stock for holeshot if I did not want the all out wakeboard prop which I'm told is more appropriate for heavily sacked out/bigger boats. The third prop is the wakeboard prop upgrade from Moomba/OJ (although they have a newer one out now). Tazz gave me a great deal on his 537 over the winter so I jumped on it and mandley was nice enough to let me borrow his wakeboard prop for the purpose of this test.

Of course, the wakeboard prop would take care of any holeshot concerns but since I do most of my boating with light loads, I’m not sure I want to pay the gas usage penalty as well as give up several mph on the top end all the time.

Only me and my 13 year old son were in the boat. I was going to also fill my 750 lb surf ballast and put in on the floor in the middle of the lounge but I realized that they have fittings on them to connect to the plumbed ballast system so there was no way I could fill it where I wanted to fill it.

Based on the test results, I am definitely keeping the Acme 537. It's a dramatic improvement in holeshot over the stock prop yet gives up no mph on the top end. The wakeboard prop is an improvement over the 537 but not nearly as much as the 537 is over the stock plus it gives up 4 mph on top. If I ran more ballast or with a boat load of adults more often, then I would consider it. But for my needs, I think the 537 fits the bill nicely.

Very nice job on this, Al. We are all going to learn a lot and hopefully get the info we each need to make the right choices for our prop needs. Can't wait for next weekend and the FL prop testing.

Don't forget to bring a big hammer/small sledge. Once I got home, I had a heck of a time getting the wakeboard prop off. I finally took a small sledge hammer and tapped the prop puller with it a couple of times (from under the boat, hit the back side of the prop puller) and it came right off. If this happened at the lake, I would never have gotten the prop off.

Don't forget to bring a big hammer/small sledge. Once I got home, I had a heck of a time getting the wakeboard prop off. I finally took a small sledge hammer and tapped the prop puller with it a couple of times (from under the boat, hit the back side of the prop puller) and it came right off. If this happened at the lake, I would never have gotten the prop off.

IM glad my prop came off my boat so easily.

Now where is my prop sukka LOL. Claudia ask me what good is Fierah with no prop. I said about as good as Big Blue with no Tires. LOL

We definetly will be using this as a guide for the props we are testing.

We will add to it by doing 0-36 mph runs.

seems your average results from 4 runs are pretty similar to my tests with just 2 runs (at the different speeds) so I'll stick to 2 runs. Of course, this decision will be left up to the testers - since it's their boat

When completed, and if you wish, we can combine all reports into one thread.

I think one more thing we should add to the reports is - amount of clearance between prop and trailer.

More suggestions on prop changing...

Get rid of that wrench that comes with the puller kit. That thing is almost impossible to work with. I use a 1 1/8" socket - 1/2" drive

instead of a hammer or a sledge and whacking the prop puller, I use a 2 foot bar that I slip over the handle of the socket wrench - gives me the extra leverage needed to break the prop loose. The bar is actually a horseshoe pole

I use a c-clamp to hold down a short length of 2x4 to trap the prop.

Use a little waterproof grease inside the prop.

Oh, last but not least - if you are done with your prop testing, get yourself a new nyloc and put it on. Those things aren't designed to be used over and over.

Daze and SJTLMT, I have new nyloc's for you guys.

EDIT...Al, hope you don't mind - I copied your test form and added it to the post "final round of prop test threads". This is a sticky and will stay at the top for a while.

When we get all the data, including yours, we can put it all into the same format - being yours or sandm's.

Thanks Ed. No problem on copying my form and adding it to your thread. I must admit that I was a bit selfish with this test in that I only tested the parameters that were important to me. This was necessary due to the time constraint and the fact that it was just me and my son. We were our on the lake all day as it was. But hopefully, there is enough data here that others can draw conclusions from it for their particular situation.

As far as the prop R&R, this was my first time removing a prop so it was definitely a learning process. I did not have any issues at the lake, only when I got home and went to remove Mike's prop. I had a 2' cheater bar that I was gently applying to the prop puller and I was starting to do some damage to the end of the shaft and the prop puller (gouging of the tip). I was afraid I was doing something wrong since I didn't have any issues at all at the lake and since I was working with Mike's prop, I didn't want to force the issue. What saved the day is that I ran to this forum and did a quick search on prop removal and found a post where someone suggested tapping the prop puller from behind. Just a couple of gentle taps with my small sledge and it popped right off. Don't worry Mike, I hit the prop puller with the hammer, not your prop! Your prop made it off unharmed The tip on the post about leaving the lock nut on to catch the prop was also a nice one.

Yes, I did put some lithium grease on the 537 before I put it back on.

Yes, the wrench in the pic came with my prop puller kit and is intended to be kept in the boat with the puller and spare prop. I was in a hurry and could not find the right size socket (27mm, BTW) before leaving for the lake. I also have some long socket extensions that I used at home so that I was working the ratchet aft of the trailer and rudder. Definitely comes in handy when chaning out multiple props. And the C clamp on the wood block is a good idea (a trigger release quick clamp is an even better one) but mine stayed in place just fine.

I was specifically looking out for prop/trailer clearance issues based on your previous posts Ed but I had plenty of clearance with each prop.

The pic below shows the clearance with the biggest diameter prop (the 14.25 x 14). It also shows how the block of wood is used for those wondering.

These are the three props tested. L to R: OJ 13.7x17.5, Acme 13.5x16, OJ 14.25x14. Note difference in blade design of the Acme vs the OJ. The blades on the ACME are slightly thinner as well.