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As many people do who want to take there helmet to a new level, I added lights in my RF topper. Hyperdyne lights to be exact. The helmet in question is the TF that will soon get a progress thread, but in the mean time I wanted to take a moment to share my light set up and how I did it.

Here is a movie showing off both my lights and one of my fans for my helmet.

Its a Windows media file and is about 10 megs... excuse the goofy indoor lighting. But this is with lights on and windows open so it shows it how it would look to you trooping indoors.

Now for a breakdown of how I got it to fit and work.

First off, it has a tilt switch (I think thats what its called) that in a certin position will cause the lights to turn on and if you move the RF it will shut off, this eliminates the need to put an on off switch.

I didt care for the feature, not to mention its a touchy feature that will shut the lights off if the helmet gets jared at all... you have to be completely still.

So I removed this and sodered the connectors together completeing that curcut.

Next I used my sodering iron to remove the battery connectors. The board clearly marks which is positive and negitive so it was easy to soder on wires to conect to a new 9V batter connector that will be added inside the helmet with a switch.

Now the real trick was to get the LED wires to route throught he tiny hole on the indes of the RF topper and plug into the board. Now the LEDs do have a + and a - connection so you have to be aware of this when bending them through the little hole and plugging them into the topper.

I also had to bend over the white light so it would lay flat and flush with the board.

Now your ready to glue on your clear peice. But make sure and test your lights several times to make sure you wont need to tweek anything.

I am very happy with the outcome of this little project. Now all I need to do is run the wires down my stakl and make a removable batter connection using velcro.

So I give a thumbs up to the Hyperdine lights, ship fast, and there very customizable for any topper.

The TF RF Topper looks fantastic with the hyperdyne lights in it. I love the glow of the clear resin piece with the lights on.

I have the hyperdyne servo and light kits in my BM helmet and it really adds to the shock value of my helmet when I trigger my servo and the RF stalk moves down and the lights come on. Great choice for your helmet Evan.

I cant get the movie to work I built my own RF board and was planning to using a tilt switch and small battery to keep it all self contained. But I think I have changed my mind and instead of tilt switch, I will put a micro switch in the ear, also use a 9V battery instead so I can run fans and everything off one battery. Now its just matter of waiting for my BM hollow stalk to arrive

On the tilt switch... its more trouble then its worth IMO. My other thinking is even though its not cannon I want to be able to have my lights on when ever, up or down. I also want to be able to know that if I move they wont sudenly turn off as they do with the tilt switch.

Thanks everyone, I have to admit when I firt looked at the topper and then my lights trying to figure out how to do it I was a little overwhelmed. Electronics are not normaly my thing but I do understand how they work.

One thing I learned... the wires they sell at Radio shak are to damn thick!!!

While we're on the topic of TF helmets, would someone care to explain to me how to set up a servo in it? I can't really figure out a good way because the wires are coming from the stalk into the helmet.

TeamFett is correct, the clear part comes with the topper and helmet. As far as the servo goes. The servos I have seem dont connect on the hinge that your speaking of TeamFett. You are required to cut a quarter circle on the ear ceice for the servo to poke through and grab the stalk. I am sure that there are many other ways to hook up a servo but that is what I have seen in person.

While we're on the topic of TF helmets, would someone care to explain to me how to set up a servo in it? I can't really figure out a good way because the wires are coming from the stalk into the helmet.

My next job is to figure out how to get this to work around the design i've used, i'll keep you posted....

What you would need to do is had a small curved slot over the top of where the servo comes out, this is where you will run your wires from your stalk. (you have to imagine it on my picture, my electronics were in the topper).

Just add enough slack to allow it to move freely without kinking.

If you look at some of the ref. photos, they did something similar.

Make sure you use stranded wire, it will take the strain of moving better than solid wire.

Where does one buy the servos that move the RF up and down? I've read a little here and there but I always seem to miss where to find them. Or are they a common device that can be bought at Radio Shack etc? Now that I have a nice helmet, I'd really love to trick it out-and a servo would be the coolest thing short of a working HUD...