I remember this in a discussion over in the T-50 Podium Jets thread.
So it actually is a good marriage with foam.
What applicator are you using to get the thin coat. That was the misleading part from their vids with most applications being on the heavy side even laying the stuff down with a hopper.

I used cheap throw away foam brushes. my technique was 4coats 30mins apart and then sand. then four more coats 30min apart and sand, prime, sand, paint. the better you get at applying it the less sanding you have. it is a completely non-toxic material unless you atomize it with a spray gun....then it becomes lethal I opted to brush it on, although I think it would be quicker and have a better finish if sprayed I just didn't want to take the chance since I dont have a seperate air supply mask

I like the idea of liquid sheeting; just wish it was clear coat. I'm sticking with composite from now on as it has double the advantages for me as I do very little outside modding anyway, just the electrical internals and lighting. The Bae Hawk detailing and glossy paint looks much more amazing to me even unassembled, as I have one that arrived damaged during shipping from Scaleflying.com but they are sending a full replacement and have assured me that I don't have to send the damaged one back; so more spare parts for me. I love the way the SU-35 looks, it's stunning to me but still in my eyes the BAe Hawk definitely looks better and looks do play a big part in my purchases as I've never had anything other than scale models. I will say the SU-35 handles more like the stunt planes I see out here at Markham park and it is highly maneuverable, which can be more important to some. I still love my foamies but know they can't compare to what I have coming but just that's just the way I see it. So go ahead and have the last word Peter, just know it won't change me. I'd rather that than have this thread take a back and forth bantering detour.

Nice Vtol vid. The Harrier that my friend is trying to get flying is using a scale version of the vector flight nozzle per the full size one. That is why it is difficult to get the hover and flight transition. The video looks like it is using two EDFs. One permanently down on what may be a pivot along with the flight thrust. Still very impressive. It would be nice to see how this fellow does it or is it a kit?

F35 vtol

Quote:

Originally Posted by acesimmer

Nice Vtol vid. The Harrier that my friend is trying to get flying is using a scale version of the vector flight nozzle per the full size one. That is why it is difficult to get the hover and flight transition. The video looks like it is using two EDFs. One permanently down on what may be a pivot along with the flight thrust. Still very impressive. It would be nice to see how this fellow does it or is it a kit?

Better is relative but based on jcdfrd's comments it sounds to be liquid sheeting. Advantage is it needs no glass/kelvar/carbon etc for basic strength and if done correctly conforms to the foam structure.
The biggest concern is ability to apply only a very thin layer to keep its weight down. It then becomes a thin plastic coat on the foam. Think of all the plastic molded stage props at amusement parks etc. They are outdoor durable and strong depending on how thick the lay up is done.
The load properties of it with foam can make a light thin foam structure very strong and thus the overall model lighter from a manufacturers point.
We wondered in the other discussion why model manufacturers hadn't already used this making more of any models foam inners and hollows thinner with liq sheeting.

Poly is still scratchable. Think of scratching a wood floor or furniture. The wood is solid but surface scratches or takes the abuse. Foam isn't solid so while better than nothing the Poly can only be stretched so far before it fails. You can glass WBP, prim and paint but that may end up being heavier for the same surface loading.

sorry I have not used wbpu so I can not really answer that but the LS is a hard coating so when you pick up my L39 it feels like a composite without the flexing and can look every bit as good depending on how much body work you want to do, really it is as good as glassing. the difference being LS is much easier to apply than glassing but once the LS is on and sanded the rest of the job is the same. prime, sand, paint. here is my first try with LS on my F18 the fuse is fiberglass and the wings and stabs were china coat covering. I stripped the covering off the wings and stabs and applied the LS right over the balsa and Painted with Dupont Chromabase two stage automotive paint. the finish was better than most composites that I've seen
here's a flight vid on 10s

agreed! I might just pull my spare Su out the closet and do a whole different scheme.

Jc,

That f18 looks great and composite! This is exactly what I've needed as I've never had the patience or skill to do a whole glassing of a foamy. And like max said it doesn't weigh it down like a glassing.

Poly is mainly for hangar rash and adding a lil toughness to the foam (a lil), plus ease of cleaning.