Escape from New York

Long Island beaches

The tip of Long Island, the 118-mile stretch of land
extending into the Atlantic Ocean from New York Harbor, is one of
the USA's greatest vacationlands. Rural and largely agricultural
until the 20th century, the island's western reaches became New
York City suburbs with the advent of commuter rail and the
automobile.

But the East End, too far from Manhattan for city workers to
call home, retained much of its natural beauty and charm,
becomingtheplace for New Yorkers, starved
of sun, sea and sky, to escape to on summer weekends. While the
East End is nowhere near as low-key or undeveloped as it was in the
1940s and 1950s, when artists such as Jackson Pollock lived and
worked here, it still delivers genuine pleasures, both traditional
and modern: long, sandy beaches and surf-ready waves; exciting
wines and farm-to-table cuisine; high-wattage shopping and
celebrity parties; windmills, shingled cottages and manicured
gardens brimming with roses. In short, it's the kind of place where
you can live the high life or barely stir from your beach chair -
or both. Whatever your idea of summer heaven, chances are it's
here.

Escape to the Hamptons

ESCAPE TO THE HAMPTONS

The Hamptons is the East End's most famous and privileged
enclave, a collection of hamlets and villages primarily on the
island's south shore, home to some of the country's most expensive
real estate and those who can afford it. It is a place of polo
matches and $1,000-a-plate charity benefits, where media moguls,
rap stars and old-money WASPs rub shoulders at the same restaurant,
where confident young bucks come to party and societygrandes damessettle in for elegant Champagne
brunches.

The beauty of the place - or the opposite, depending on your
point of view - is that when you tire of the beach there is a full
complement of more urbane activities, from top-notch shopping to
fine dining and late-night parties. The glamour quotient is high
and everything is expensive, but, in true American democratic
fashion, if you can afford the price of entry you're welcome to
join in. And the emergence of several good hotels in the past few
years has made the scene more accessible. (Previously you had to
know someone or rent a house, usually for a season.) Traffic on the
main road between villages is crazy-making in the height of summer,
so pick somewhere you would like to spend most of your time. In
general, the Hamptons get quieter the further east you
go.

Best beaches in The Hamptons

The beaches at the Hamptons tend to lookfairly
similar, so unless you are very particular about size and shape,
whereyou choose will depend primarily on what kind of
atmosphere you're looking for. If you're driving youwill generally need a permitto park; these can
be purchased or hotels can often provide them. If you are looking
for a cool,young scene check outFlying Point Beachin Water Mill or the more
glamorousGibson Beachin Sagaponack.
Families should head toIndian Wells Beachin Amagansett orMecox Beachin
Bridgehampton.Wainscott Beachin
Wainscott isa quieter option. East Hampton'sTwo Mile Hollowis a popular gay spot, and
for those who can't decide, a good something-for-everyone choice
isMain Beachin East
Hampton.

Where to stay in The Hamptons

Capri, SouthamptonThe rebirth of old roadside motels (architecturally
undistinguished one- or two-storey buildings, often with rooms
arranged around a pool) as boutique hotels is a recentphenomenon in the Hamptons. They are usually quite simple,
less about luxury than having a good time, and the Capri is no
exception. The rooms are petite, fresh and beachy, with all-white
beds and kaleidoscopic murals by the fashion designer Cynthia
Rowley (who also has a small boutique at the hotel). Despite its
sophisticated Nobu restaurant, the Capri feels like a party place:
the music plays until 1am and the walls are thin, so if you want to
stay here, it's probably best to join in.281 County
Road 39A, Route 27, Southampton (00 1 631 504 6575; www.caprisouthampton.com). Doubles from
$228

c/o The Maidstone, East HamptonJenny Ljungberg, of the Swedish hotel company Care of
Hotels, gave this historic Maidstone inn a show-stopping makeover a
few years ago. The decor (electric-blue walls, mid-century Swedish
chairs, American Empire sofas upholstered in multicoloured Josef
Frank fabrics) is invigorating, but it also feels relaxed and
lived-in. There are vintage-style Kronan bicycles and fully loaded
iPods for guests' use, yoga classes in the garden, interesting
artwork and books strewn about, and a great restaurant. Eachof the 19 rooms is named after a famous Scandinavian and they
are all supremely comfortable, with Hästens beds, Malin+Goetz
toiletries and hand-paintedclogs to wear in the
garden.207 Main Street, East Hampton (00 1 631 324
5006; www.careofhotels.com/maidstone). Doubles from
$545

The American Hotel, Sag Harbor
This place is an institution in Sag Harbor, perhaps the least
flashy (but still posh) of the Hamptons villages. Set in a
19th-century brick building on Main Street, the hotel is high
Victorian style at its best, with dark wood, Tiffany lamps,
nautical paintings and imposing furniture. Rooms have brass
bedsteads, tea-rose wallpaper, Empire bureaus and portraits of
George Washington. All in all, it's traditional and very American,
and if you get in the spirit, good fun. For a taste of Sag society,
booka table for Sunday brunch at the restaurant and
soak up the scene: everyone knows everyone and gossips over Bloody
Marys. 49 Main Street, Sag Harbor (00 1 631 725
3535; www.theamericanhotel.com). Doubles from
$188

Where to eat & drink in The Hamptons

Tutto Il Giorno, Southampton
The new Southampton outpost of Gabby Karan's Sag Harbor restaurant
is bigger and more comfortable than its predecessor, with a
cosyyet industrial farmhouse look (lots of iron
andrough wood). The simple Italian cuisine is
excellent: homemade spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and basil; sea
bream in white wine; 'chicken in a brick'.56 Nugent
Street, Southampton (00 1 631 377 3611). Dinner for two about $115
without wine

Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen
Another favourite Hamptons hangout, the Candy Kitchen is an
old-fashioned ice-cream parlour and diner. It is worth a stop for a
fresh Lime Rickey drink or an extra-thick milkshake.2391 Montauk Highway, Bridgehampton (00 1 631 537 9885). Lunch
for two about $20

Nick & Toni's, East Hampton
This institutionin East Hampton is stillthe restaurant to see andbe seen in. If you are
looking for celebrities, they are pretty much guaranteed here. The
space is pleasant (check out the mosaics),the Italian
food is good (fettucine with parsnips andguancialebacon; quail with pomegranate sauce) and reservations are
coveted (you need to book in advance).136 North Main
Street, East Hampton (00 1 631 324 3550; www.nickandtonis.com). Dinner for two about
$125 without wine

The Lobster Roll, Amagansett
This kitsch-looking restaurant is justifiably famous
for its seafood. The lobster roll (chunks of lobster meat served
cold tossed in mayonnaise or hot, tossed in butter, on a toasted
hot-dog bun) is a regional delicacy, and this is the place to have
one. Pull off the Montauk Highway when you see the 'lunch'
signand the striped awning.1980 Montauk
Highway, Amagansett (00 1 631 267 3740; www.lobsterroll.com). Dinner for two about $75
without wine

Where to shop in The Hamptons

The Hamptons is a shopper's paradise. In a relatively
concentrated area there are outposts of nearly all the major
international brands, plus interesting local boutiques. Our pick of
the homegrown shops is listed here. It's also worth looking out for
pop-up stores,open just for the summer season, the
latest trend on the Hamptons retail scene.

North Fork peninsula

A map of North Fork

ESCAPE TO NORTH FORK

The North Fork, the 30-mile peninsula that
stretches from Riverhead to Orient Point, is the East End's
agricultural centre. Today it is best known for its many wineries,
which have slowly but surely been gaining in quality and renown not
just on the East Coast but across the USA. And with the wine
revolution has come food - ambitious restaurants that take
advantage of the bounty of local produce, meat and seafood - making
the North Fork a bona fide epicurean destination. Although there
are beaches it offers more of a Napa- Valley-by-the-sea experience
than a resort break, and is well worth a few days'
visit.

Where to eat in North Fork

Much of the action centres on Greenport, a once
down-at-heel town which has received a boost from the boom in North
Fork tourism in recent years.The town rewards a
stroll, particularly if you're hungry.Miche
Bacher Sacred Sweets (00 1 631 477
6762; www.sacredsweets.com)is a fantastic bakery (coconut pound cake,dulce
de lechebrownies) andThe Frisky
Oyster(00 1 631 477 4265; www.thefriskyoyster.com. Dinner for two about
$120 without wine)is one of the region's
most urbane and lively restaurants, serving cocktails and globally
inspired dishes includingyuzu-glazed
pork belly and striped bass withsalsa
cruda.

Sample an all-American breakfast atCoronet
Luncheonette(00 1 631 477 9834; www.coronetrestaurant.com), a
classic diner where you can get buttermilk pancakes and malted
waffles. And on your way out of town visit the sailmakerWm JMills &
Co(00 1 631 477 1500; www.millscanvas.com) to pick
up a canvas tote, a favourite of local preppies and Brooklyn
hipsters alike.

It's worth driving up to picturesque Orient, the historic
community at the tip of the North Fork (stop en route atLavender By The Bay(00 1
631 477 1019; www.lavenderbythebay.com)
farm for all things fragrant).Orient Beach State
Parkhas a wide, family-friendly strand and rocky
Truman Beach, at the causeway where Orient
connects to Marion, is beautiful at sunset.The
wineries are the main attraction here, and you could easily spend
several days visiting them all. (Saturdays in summer are very
popular for tastings, with wedding parties in particular, and are
best avoided.)

Where to drink in North Fork

The wineries are the main attraction here, and you could
easily spend several days visiting them all. (Saturdays in summer
are very popular for tastings, with wedding parties in particular,
and are best avoided.)In general, you will find some
of the finest wines at the smaller, less commercial estates. Among
the best are:Sherwood House Vineyards(00 1 631 779 2817; www.sherwoodhousevineyards.com),
with tastings in a pretty space that doubles as an antiques
shop;Paumanok(00 1
631 722 8800; www.paumanok.com), for
stellar whites; Roanoke Vineyards(00 1 631
727 4161; www.roanokevineyards.com), which has a
rustic feel and turns out a nice selection; Croteaux
Vineyards(00 1 631 765 6099; www.croteaux.com), for its very good
rosé;One Woman Wines & Vineyards(00 1 631 765 1200; www.onewomanwines.com), which proves
Long Island can make a fine Grüner Veltliner; andCorey Creek Vineyard (www.bedellcellars.com), known for its
Chardonnay.

Shinn Estate Vineyards(00 1 631 804 0367; www.shinnestatevineyards.com. Doubles from
$219) produces some of the North Fork's top
wines and is also the best place to stay, with four comfortable
rooms in a late-19th-century farmhouse amid the vines. To be closer
to the bustle of Greenport, check out the friendly,
Victorian-styleOrient Inn(00
1 631 323 2300; www.orientinn-ny.com. Doubles from
$225).

For a picnic lunch to enjoy with a bottle at one of the
vineyards, pick up a selection of cheeses and charcuterie
fromThe Village Cheese Shop(00 1 631 298 8556; www.thevillagecheeseshop.com)in Mattituck, or sit down at the casualLove
Lane Kitchen(00 1 631 298 8989; www.lovelanekitchen.com. Lunch for two about
$40) for a good burger.The North
Fork Table & Inn(00 1 631 765 0177;
www.northforktableandinn.com. Dinner for two
about $136 without wine)is the area's
most ambitious restaurant; tryThe Lunch
Truck(lunch for two about
$20)in its carpark at midday, but don't
miss dinner, for beautifully balanced dishes such as corn soup with
chanterelles and popcorn leaves. And for a real in-the-know treat,
stop atMagic Fountain(00 1 631 298
4908; www.magicfountainlongisland.com), an
ice-cream parlour in Mattituck. The salted caramel flavour is out
of this world.

Escape from New York to Montauk

A map of Montauk

ESCAPE TO MONTAUK

There's a lot of talk these days in Montauk,
the village at the tip of the East End's South Fork, about Old
Montauk versus New. It was always the anti-Hamptons, a place where
fishermen, surfers and loners came to kick back, take in the sea
air and ride killer waves. In recent years, however, it has become
cool with certain New York crowds: the fashion flock, the gallery
denizens, the Brooklyn scenesters. With them have come glammed-up
motels, chic shops and the kind of restaurants never previously
seen east of the Hamptons. For visitors this isn't a bad thing; and
for all the change that the old timers rue, Montauk still feels
less 'done' than the Hamptons. But now you can get a good cocktail
and a perfect rocket salad, anddance the night
away.

Where to stay Montauk

In certain circles it is apoint of debate
whetherthe Surf Lodge, which opened in 2008,
reflected the emergence of New Montauk or created it. Whatever your
position, it remains one of the hottest places in town, and is a
great introduction tothe sexy, beach-casual aesthetic
of Montauk.

Housed in a couple of nondescript motel buildings on Fort
Pond, the property is a tribute to surf culture. You will find a
bar of Mr Zogs Sex Wax ('the best for your stick') on your bed,
along with a copy ofThe Surfer's Journalmagazine; old surf flicks play all dayon a movie screen in the lobby, and surfboards are stored in
the rafters above the bar. Bright colours abound, along with cane,
rattan, driftwood and coral; rooms are simple but comfortable,
dominated by big white beds facing the water.

The Surf Lodge could probably get away withjust being pretty, but in fact it's a thoughtfully run hotel,
with a proper restaurant, good DJs playing in thebar,
bicycle rentals and,of course, surfing
lessons.

Ditch Witch
This food truck, which usually parks beside Ditch Plains Beach,
has a cult following among surfers for its breakfast burritos
(stuffed with egg and ham, with a cumin-spiked hot sauce). Get
there early for a taste of true Montauk, where scruffy surfers pay
by pulling a couple of dollars from expensive Goyard
wallets.Otis Road parking lot

Melet Mercantile
Perhaps the most original shopon the East End, the
Montauk branch of this Manhattan-based showroom is a treasure trove
of vintage clothing andobjets, artfully
arranged by themes(African Safari, Black Power,
Rainbow) in an industrial garage next to a taxi dispatch centre.
Expensive but fascinating, it's a must-see.102
Industrial Road(00 1 631 668 9080)

Shelter Island New York

A map of Shelter Island

ESCAPE TO SHELTER ISLAND

This 8,000-acre idyll in the sound between the
East End's North and South Forks has always been an in-the-know
kind of place. People went to Shelter Island if they had a house
there, or knew someone who did. And that was a big part of its
appeal: quiet streets, a handful of mom-and-pop shops and
restaurants, some pretty beaches that never got too crowded. That
all changed in the 1990s when hotelier André Balazs (of Standard
Hotels and Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles) took an ugly old motel
by the island's best beach on Shore Road and transformed it into
Sunset Beach, the kind of barefoot-chic beach club you find (or
hope to) in Saint-Tropez.

Although Shelter Island today has more of a glamour
factor, it is largely confined to Sunset Beach, and the island as a
whole still holds fast to its small-town charms. If you want to get
away from it all, you could happily spend a whole week on the
island, but it also makes a peaceful add-on to a longer East End
break. Here's how to make the most of 24 hours.

Take acar ferry to the island in the mid- to late afternoon - they run every
10 to 20 minutes from Greenport on the North Fork and North Haven
on the South Fork - and head to 'town', around Grand Avenue, for a
stroll. Pop into shops includingZach &
Chance(00 1 631749
0967; www.zachandchance.com)(new
and vintage clothes for women),Thé à la
Menthe(00 1 749
5250) (pretty homeware, soap and candles) and
the wonderfully old-fashionedBliss Department
Store(00 1 631 749 0041).

Shelter Island: the highlights

Check into one of the simple, white and blond-wood rooms
atSunset Beachto be in the centre
of the action (or if you prefer a quieter spot book intoLa Maison Blanche, new last year, on Stearns
Point Road). Snag a perch on the upper terrace at Sunset Beach's
restaurant and unwind with a cocktail or a glass of rosé as you
watch the sun go down over Crescent Beach. You could happily eat
here, but if you fancy something more ambitious head toVine Street Caféon South Ferry Road for
brilliantly prepared seafood such as diver scallops with edamame
succotash.

Next morning, drive toReddings
Marketon North Ferry Road for coffee and homemade
pastries, and pick up the ingredients for a picnic lunch. If you
would like some outdoor activity continue toMashomack Preserve, the nature reserve that
covers almost one third of the island, for a hike. If the seaside
is more your speed, settle in for people-watching atCrescent Beachor drive alongOak Tree Laneto find a quiet, narrow strip
of sand that you will have all to yourself. Later on, as you head
back to the ferry dock, stop atBoltax
Galleryto take in some cutting-edge contemporary
art.

Getting to Long Island

Tackling summer traffic to Long Island from New York City is
a challenge. Hotelier André Balazs' newStndAir(www.stndair.com) service takes 45 minutes from
Manhattan to Shelter Island and East Hampton on a Cessna seaplane.
Seats can be bought via the 'flight board', with the first sold for
$29, increasing to $375. Only flights with eight confirmed
passengers make the journey.

The Long Island Rail Road(www.mta.info/lirr) leaves from New
York'sPenn Station. Its summer Hamptons Reserve
Service has shorter travel timesand reserved
seating.

The Hampton Jitney(www.hamptonjitney.com) coach service has the
most frequent departures between Manhattan and both the North and
South Forks.