Osteria Bonelli

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It would be a culinary crime to go to Rome and not sample some simple home cooking. The steaming bowls of pasta e ceci (pasta and chickpeas) and cacio e pepe (beguilingly creamy bowls of pasta with cheese and pepper), made to Nonna’s time-honoured recipe. But while that might seem the luxury of travellers with friendly Romans in their address books, there are restaurants dotted around the Italian capital that offer just that: the chance to live (read: eat) like locals. Enter Osteria Bonelli.

Found in Rome’s Tor Pignattara area, known for its street art and proximity to the unabashedly trendy Pignetto district, Osteria Bonelli is guaranteed to sate any and all cravings for authentic Roman cooking. The dishes here are superb and listed on roving chalkboards that make their way around the unassuming, unfailingly popular space. You might want to brush up on your Italian before dining here in order to truly avail yourself of the seasonal, scrumptious fare on offer (there’s not much English to be seen). But if in doubt, you can always smile and point at something; it’s sure to be good. Then all that’s left is to wash it down with the delicious house red, which is agreed to be a steal. And if, after all this wonderful wining and dining, the thought of finding such a spot in this slightly down-at-heel area still seems too good to be true, just wait until the ridiculously affordable bill is presented.

A Hedonist’s guide to…

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