Simple food gets a bad rap. Chefs tweak it, add to it, transform it. But sometimes, as in the case of refried beans, simple isn’t just good, it’s addictively delicious and comforting. Smooth and creamy refried beans are an instant dip, a healthy side and a welcome dollop in a burrito or on a tostada.

Great refried beans are earthy, hearty and also simple to make — if you have a few hours to spare. Typically made from pinto beans and a few seasonings, refried beans need more than an hour on the stove to soften, then a second trip into a skillet for mashing, with or without oil, lard or extra seasonings.

All of which makes canned beans a great option — if you pick the right can. It’s surprising that such a basic food can vary so much in style, texture and flavor, but it does. Some cans contain beans so mashed, they’re more like bean soup. Others are super chunky, extra spicy or mixed with creative additions, like peppers and tomato. Those that are fat-free tend to be slightly drier and less flavorful; the extra 10 calories of fat adds a lot of oomph.

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The best canned refries are a chunky mash of mildly seasoned beans with a balance of seasonings that allows the bean flavor to shine, and they tend to have short ingredient lists. The worst canned beans are bland, dry or spiked with far too much of something — vinegar, salt, bacon or spice.

Here’s the scoop on the pinto bean mash-ups that can deliver a tasty, quick meal, and the flavorless ones that aren’t worth beans. Nutrition information refers to a ½-cup serving.

Rosarita Organic Spicy Jalapeno Refried Beans

A wallop of heat and chunky bean texture make these taste exactly right. Made with coconut oil instead of lard, they have just the right hit of salt and spice. 110 calories, 2 g fat, 450 mg sodium, 5 g protein. $1.99 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (3½ stars)

Rosarita Spicy Jalapeno Refried Beans

It turns out there’s a reason this brand can be found at most grocery stores. The mash is both moist and chunky, and the jalapeño shines. The only flaw is a touch too much vinegar. 120 calories, 2.5 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $1.25 for 16 ounces at FoodMaxx. (3 stars)

Trader Jose’s Organic Salsa Style Refried Pinto Beans

This interesting mash of super spicy beans has great texture and gets points for delivering heat, but the spices are so potent, they muddy the flavor of the beans. 150 calories, .5 g fat, 380 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $1.29 for 15 ounces. (2½ stars)

Signature Select Traditional Refried Beans

These lack the charm of fresh beans and have too much vinegar, but the seasoning is balanced. They’ll do in a pinch. 110 calories, 2.5 g fat, 510 mg sodium, 6 g protein. 99 cents for16 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)

Old El Paso Traditional Refried Beans

The pasty white color and fluffy texture are not appetizing, but those who love cumin might like these. Most of the beans are whole and the flavor of cumin dominates. 110 calories, 2.5 g fat, 440 mg sodium, 5 g protein. $1.25 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (1 star)

Sprouts Organic Fat Free Vegetarian Refried Pinto Beans

This super-pureed blend has too little flavor to evaluate. It neither smells nor tastes like its number one ingredient is pinto beans. 110 calories, no fat, 440 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $1.49 for 16 ounces. (½ a star)

Market Essentials Traditional Refried Beans

Those who don’t care for the flavor of beans should give these a try. They taste like salted nothingness. 140 calories, 1.5 g fat, 300 mg sodium, 8 g protein. 99 cents for 16 ounces at Target. (½ a star)

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O Organics Fat Free Refried Pinto Beans

The chili flavor in these beans is welcome, but the tinny, salty and old aftertaste — perhaps due to excess vinegar — is distinctly unappetizing. 100 calories, no fat, 510 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $1.49 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (No stars)

Bush’s Best Cocina Latina Smashed Pintos with Tomatoes

Using bacon or bacon fat in refries is common, but the fake bacon note in these is all wrong. This tastes more like pureed chili than refried beans. 120 calories, 2 g fat, 420 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $1.40 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.

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