Beer Man: Smooth Beck’s Sapphire highlights its hops

I would describe Sapphire as a golden lager, despite it commonly being described as a pilsner. The latter is a specific lager style marked by more-than-normal bitterness, which Sapphire does not have. As a common saying goes, all pilsners are lagers, but not all lagers are pilsners.

The name of the beer comes from the use of Sapphire hops, a recently developed strain from Germany called Saphir that’s intended to be more disease-resistant than the similar Hallertau (sometimes referred to as Hallertauer) Mittelfruh hops. They are used more for flavor and aroma than for bittering.

Beck’s Sapphire is smooth and refreshing, with the added bonus of a fine hop flavor and aroma. I found it to be one of the better lagers on the store shelves.

Here is why: It has no popcorn aftertaste like many mass-produced light lagers that use rice and corn. This is not Budweiser with extra hops. It actually has malt flavor, not just some thin, watery, beer-like taste. The hops are slightly herbal and grassy, easily noticeable in both the aroma and taste. There is little bitterness while drinking the beer or in the finish -- just enough to cut the sweetness of the malt.

It also does not have the background sulfuric quality I find in regular Beck’s and some other German lagers.

Sapphire is a beer that has been out for a while; common complaints about it include being called Beck’s, although it isn’t made in Germany, and it’s not bitter or hoppy enough.

Anheuser-Busch/Beck’s/InBev is one big happy family now. If InBev wants Beck’s beers to be made in the U.S. to save shipping costs from Germany, why not? As to the second complaint, I think too many beers are ruined by excessive bitterness. Sapphire is grown mostly for its aromatic qualities and is not a hop meant to bitter-blast the bejesus out of your tastebuds or fry your senses with pine and grapefruit.

For all of its positive qualities, however, 6 percent ABV Sapphire does not topple the best German lagers from their positions at the top of the beer chain. It doesn’t have the fresh grain taste or the tickly carbonation that the best lagers have.

AB InBev’s huge distribution network means Beck’s Sapphire should easily be found throughout the United States.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer’s website, which often contains information on product availability by mail. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com.

About Beer Man

Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world. This week: Beck’s Sapphire, AB InBev, St. Louis, www.anheuser-busch.com.