mr toj, i like collar the way it is, in fact, the collared moto is my favorite toj piece

i am just curious what collar designs did you have in mind before you decided on this one

so we let this matter die once and for all, what was your thinking behind the zipper finishing where it does

There was no other collar design considered legitimately- the collar band was there originally, because each piece has an inherent stiffness (no otter) that must be taken into consideration. The collar band gives it a vertical anchor, to allow the collar itself to fall naturally and casually - molding is optional, and can be done by just pressing on the collar a bit, holding it in place when its hanging, or going all out and wetting it and molding it. The actual shape, and this goes for any TOJ jacket, and any component of one, is obviously going to differ from piece to piece, because of the sheer number of materials and sizes involved. In other words, it's up to you.

as for not extending the zipper up through the collarband, it's a) not necessary and b) it's not possible, based on the order in which the pieces are sewn together.

Drew, do you have a price in mind for the TOJ1? Also, what will the collor options be?
I find myself checking this thread daily since unveilment of the new varsity hoping for info on that, but the word of this week seems to be Collared moto...

Honestly, the collared Moto I am about ready to give rest to... no use in getting into these kinds of discussions, would rather just not make it. The point of the clothes was to let them speak on their own, they are what they are, are not what they are not.

I agree with you otter, that the average noob will come in here and will wonder how it all works, the $700 part, etc, etc - in my opinion, if the concept is that hard to grasp, then it's probably not for them either. TOJ requires some level of understanding beyond the first post or the last post of the thread, and the better you know it, hopefully the better it is for you. Most of my orders come from people who do not ever post in this thread, and that is why the fit pics are few and far between. I knew this from two years ago. I'd seriously estimate that 70-80% of the things I've made went to people who may not even have a forum account - and they still understand the idea pretty well. It's a simple thing. It's not Epaulet shop, and it's not Wolf vs Goat, it's just it's own thing with it's own flavors.

I honestly don't even think that the pricetag has much to do with anything besides representing what I can sell you a custom-made leather jacket for. It could be less than that, it could be way more than that - people would still probably ask the same questions, and raise the same concerns, no matter what price it is. If you give people options, the options will be exercised, whether they need to be or not. Choices will be chosen - and usually not because they're the best, but because they're either the newest and first up, or the one that speaks the loudest, etc.

FWIW, I am cooking up some other new leather jackets along with a lot of other stuff, but they won't be TOJ - and perhaps no one will even know it's me, it definitely won't be in this thread and there probably won't be a discussion thread for it, I won't start one for sure - but I plan on putting a lot of stuff+work that I can't fit into a TOJ leather jacket for $710 into a different set of clothes, where I will have more freedom to do what I want and not be asked about collar bands and colors of leather that never exist, and get back to the real task at hand, while getting to use all that I've learned about making leather jackets, clothes in general, etc. I will probably make the other stuff with my own hands, I'm talking on that level.

FWIW, I am cooking up some other new leather jackets along with a lot of other stuff, but they won't be TOJ - and perhaps no one will even know it's me, it definitely won't be in this thread and there probably won't be a discussion thread for it, I won't start one for sure - but I plan on putting a lot of stuff+work that I can't fit into a TOJ leather jacket for $710 into a different set of clothes, where I will have more freedom to do what I want and not be asked about collar bands and colors of leather that never exist, and get back to the real task at hand, while getting to use all that I've learned about making leather jackets, clothes in general, etc. I will probably make the other stuff with my own hands, I'm talking on that level.

TOJ will continue to exist, much like it is - varsity jackets, leather jackets, coats, etc.

I just want to make other stuff, and there's not enough room under the TOJ umbrella for that. Also, TOJ is me and my designs, whereas the new stuff may be a collaboration with some other talented people I like and want to work with, and I'll be doing it from my work room in Tokyo, so it'd be something a little different, from the very foundation. TOJ was inspired by classical pieces, the other stuff would be original and be based more in abstraction, and focus on the construction, doing new things with that.

Nothing else to say about it at this time really. I really enjoy making stuff, it's what I do. I cook everyday, I think up clothes to make everyday, I just like fucking around with shit. I have dreams about stuff and it comes to me in my sleep, even. What I want to do is explore leather goods more, I want to do stuff other makers don't do - I've been studying some silversmithing stuff and plan to incorporate my own handmade 925 hardware into stuff, for example. It'll go beyond just patterning and washing, I am ready to have the freedom to make exactly what I want to make, no holds barred, no $710 price limit where I keep watching the exchange rate rape me, etc, etc. It'll be good, it just won't be anything like TOJ. TOJ stays in this thread. Don't expect me to announce anything about the other stuff in this thread, or even talk about it really. It'll exist on it's own.

...Eh, I probably wouldn't have ordered until next year sometime anyway so I'd have a full three seasons to wear my DR before getting another TOJ leather. I can accept having missed out on something because I slept on it.