by Larry Olmsted, special for USA TODAY

by Larry Olmsted, special for USA TODAY

The scene: Pizzeria Lola is located in the middle of a nondescript commercial block next to a dry cleaners in an otherwise mostly residential part of Minneapolis. As a visitor you have to seek it out, but you should -- and the residents in this neighborhood are very lucky indeed -- because this is not the spot where you might expect to find world-class pizza.

In warmer summer months, the outside tables are packed and surrounded by hungry, standing guests waiting eagerly for a seat. Inside, the restaurant is built around the showcase wood-fired oven occupying the middle of the space. Pizzeria Lola does everything a bit unconventionally, starting with the oven, which is perfectly round and made of copper, an ode to a brewery tank, rather than the usual ceramic tile or plaster-covered brick. The dining room is in the front, with booths along either side and tables in the middle -- also copper-topped and very modern with leather chairs. Past the oven there is a long bar. The wall behind the bar, leading to the back, is covered with strips of photos of patrons, courtesy of an old photo booth located just before the bathrooms. This is not the only quirky hipster touch ‚?? there is also the offbeat beer list which focuses on craft micro-brews but includes both Pabst Blue Ribbon and Miller High Life cans ‚?? "tall boys" of course.

Reason to visit: All the specialty pizzas, salumi, salads and chocolate chip cookies.

The food: If you have noticed that brick-oven pizzerias across the country seem to be increasingly ubiquitous and nearly identical, then Pizzeria Lola is the place to break the mold. There is nothing conventional here, and that's what makes it so good and so much fun. Ann Kim, the proprietor, is a Korean immigrant heavily influenced by her mom's home cooking, who came to the restaurant business via law school and a theatrical acting career. According to our waiter, Lola is the weimaraner dog featured in the humorous and charming video on the restaurant's website, and according to Minnesota Monthly magazine, Kim's business partner is an ex-hedge fund manager who went to Yale and was heavily influenced by New Haven's own world-class pizza scene, previously profiled in this column. The result is as eclectic as this combination sounds, with first rate wood-fired pizza crusts adorned with bizarre combinations of toppings, many influenced by Korean staples. One reason it all works so well is that the restaurant has a serious commitment to great ingredients and fresh farm-to-table produce, on the pizzas as well as the salads, desserts and the can't-miss antipasto plate featuring excellent cured Italian meats, bacon, nuts and olives.

The two best-selling pizzas are the Korean BBQ and Lady ZaZa. The former is covered with short ribs, mozzarella, scallions, arugula, and a sesame/soy/chili oil vinaigrette. It's not as good as it sounds, it's better! The latter features homemade kimchi (a spicy Korean shredded cabbage dish), Korean sausage, Serrano peppers, scallions and a soy chili glaze. These are both delicious and different, but for anyone wanting to go a more traditional route, they also serve up excellent versions of pizza standards like margherita and marinara.

The creative-but-well-put-together flavor combos extend to the rest of the menu as well. The salads, such as mixed organic greens with artisan bleu cheese and pancetta, or the roasted baby beets and arugula with artisan chevre, are scrumptious. Surprises abound, from the roasted cauliflower with chili appetizer to the Caesar salad, which adds heart of palm. Even the soda list is thoroughly eclectic, from Mexican Coke to spicy ginger ale to offbeat all natural flavors such as lime, hibiscus and clove or orange, jasmine and nutmeg. The dessert menu is limited but no less creative, and the sole ice cream is a gelato-like homemade vanilla soft serve, topped with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt -- just a fabulous combination of flavors. The delicious warm chocolate chip cookies are served with a glass of milk on the side.

I loved Pizzeria Lola from start to finish. The menu is intriguing and fun with no weak spots, and the food is delicious across the board. That's the main appeal, but it helps that the place is also lively and fun with great service.

What regulars say: "It's the best pizza in the Twin Cities, hands down - I love the Korean BBQ pizza," said Alison Buckneberg, who works at a local law firm.

Pilgrimage-worthy?: Yes ‚?? if you are a pizza lover, this is worth traveling to.

Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a BBQ contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an e-mail at travel@usatoday.com.