Are fragrances getting more unisex today? Yes if you look at their growing number among launches. But unisex and ungendered (or “non-positioned”) are quite different.

Feminine, masculine and unisex fragrance: does this categorisation still make sense today? Yes and no. Indeed, more and more perfumes are intended for both women and men. But it would be a mistake to say that unisex fragrances are more successful today.

In the 1990s, several major brands launched unisex fragrances. Of course: ck one by Calvin Klein (1994), but other brands followed this trend of “modern freshness to share”.

The latest unisex launches have met mixed success or even failure. Notably those intended for a young target (ck2, Kenzo Totem…). Today the unisex freshness no longer works with this target, their favourite perfumes being more gendered and more powerful.

That said, fresh fragrances to share retain some success, as can be seen with collections such as Les Jardins and Les Colognes d’Hermès. The approach is different and targets a more aesthetic consumer, bringing this line closer to niche perfumes.

In 2016, the number of niche perfumes exceeded that of the major brands. This tends to increase the number of non-positioned perfumes, i.e. creations presented neither masculine nor feminine.

This trend, initiated by Serge Lutens and L’Artisan Parfumeur, enables brands to create fragrances with a much broader olfactory palette. Woody, floral and ambery fragrances. But also fresh waters, as proven by the success of the Neroli Portofino line (Tom Ford Private Blend).

Of course, certain ungendered perfumes are more popular with men and others, such as florals, with women. Yet some alternative brands continue to present their creations in a gendered way (Annick Goutal, Juliette Has a Gun, Penhaligon’s…).

When the bottles are identical or when the brand offers both gendered and ungendered fragrances, this differentiation is not always respected by salespeople and customers. “Consumers do not always respect the gender codes defined by marketing” explained Vincent Gallon at the Fragrance Innovation Summit 2017.

Sometimes the gender of fragrances can evolve. In 1992, Féminité du Bois was presented as feminine by Shiseido. Since 2009 it is part of the Serge Lutens collection. Serge Lutens specifies that despite its name, it is not a feminine fragrance. Similarly, the fragrances of the Infusion line by Prada are now non-positioned.

At a time when growth is stronger for alternative perfumery, many brands should rethink the categorisation of their perfumes – current and future.

This implies the gender of course, the bottles as well… But also a different presentation of their portfolio. A strategy that may be difficult to implement.