Peter Rowe’s Pint-sized Pour: Duet, Alpine

PINT OF THE WEEK: Duet, Alpine (5 bottles)

IT TOOK TWO: Alpine Beer Co. has a large portfolio of India Pale Ales: Bad Boy, Nelson, O’Brien’s. This, the brewery’s original try at the style, is our favorite. Duet brings out the best of two American hop varieties, Amarillo with its grapefruit and lemon zest aromas and flavors, and Simcoe, which is clean and piney.

START TO FINISH: Duet conducts beer lovers on a breathtaking tour of IPA-Ville. It’s a model of the West Coast version of this style, with the signature look: hazy yellow with a thick, frothy head that spreads wispy Belgian lace across the glass. The smell: sharp, oily, herbal. The taste: The initial bitterness is quickly integrated into the bready malts. The finish is quicker and gentler than you might expect, hops fading out and preparing you for the next sip.

CLOSE ENOUGH: Is beer best when it’s fresh? Like most clichés, this one isn’t always true. But Duet’s sparkling freshness made us happy to be living in San Diego, able to grab beers like this when they are at their peak.