Add 1" blocks on end centered in the hallway, and top them off with 1" blocks and 1/2" blocks.

3.

Glue the decorative caps onto the tops of the blocks. You'll notice I used 2 half roof blocks for the top peak. You can use full blocks if you like instead. I was just running short of full blocks at the time.

Add the decorative pieces on both sides of the gate.

I glued the gate onto a piece of clear hard plastic, so it could stand up on its own and be moved or opened.

Gather these pieces from mold #41. All of the miniatures used in the dungeon pieces are from Reaper Miniatures. Their web site is at www.reapermini.com.

I've listed the model number of this miniature so you can find the same one if you want to use it. I prime the miniature with a gray spray paint primer, then paint it the same color as the rest of the dungeon.

The decorative floor tiles are from mold #205, but you can use just regular 1" squares instead. I've made the pattern a little different so I could use up some of the other spare floor tiles.

2.

The back wall is mostly made of flat tiles.

Add the pillars, gates and base onto the back wall.

3.

Do not glue the statue in place until after the section and miniature are painted separately.

To attach the miniature securely to the stone, I pin it in place with a piece of wire. To do this, drill a small hole in the bottom of the miniature, and glue a piece of wire into the hole so the end sticks out.

Then drill a hole into the stone base, and glue the statue in place. The wire will secure the statue to the base.

Gather these pieces from mold #41. The miniature is from Reaper Miniatures. Their web site is at www.reapermini.com.

Glue the floor tiles on the 1/2" foam, but do not glue the tiles shown in red! These are used to help keep the floor straight and square as you're gluing the tiles down. The decorative tiles are from mold #205, but you can just use regular square tiles if you want to.

2.

We'll start with the passage arch that goes over the stairway.

Glue the pieces shown in the first photo. Then add the statue base and small points to the top of it.

3.

Place the arch pieces upside-down and glue in the large filler pieces as shown.

Once dry, flip the arch right-side-up and glue the pieces on top and on the front as shown in the second photo. The arch filler pieces are on the sides (so you can't see them in the second photo) which help keep the arch standing up.

4.

Cut the center out of the floor using a sharp hobby knife.

Sand the sharp bottom off of the stair piece and glue it in the center. Also glue the pieces shown on the front room edge.

5.

Glue a large arch so it bridges the gap over the floor.

Then glue the wall pieces as shown in each photo.

6.

The final blocks include the large corner arches from mold #41.

Do not glue the decorative archway (with the statue) in place until after both pieces are painted. The statue will be just the right height to overlap onto the top of the wall.

To attach the miniature securely to the stone, I pin it in place with a piece of wire. To do this, drill a small hole in the bottom of the miniature, and glue a piece of wire into the hole so the end sticks out.

Then drill a hole into the stone base, and glue the statue in place. The wire will secure the statue to the base.

http://www.hirstarts.com. All photos, articles and plans are copyrighted by Bruce Hirstand may not be used without permission. "Castlemolds(R)" is a trademark of Hirst Arts Fantasy Architecture Inc. For more information contact bruce@hirstarts.com.