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I get what you guys are laying down! I'm just a fucking nerd ok!!! Geez. The cheapest high powered fiber laser I was able to find was around 7k. It's one that would weigh around 800 lbs. HUGE.

Again, if I can ever help, hit me up.

For engraving metals. It's true you cannot truly engrave them. However, there are many work arounds that issue. First thing is to look into Cermark or Thermark. It's brilliant when used correctly and will last for fucking ever after a nice hardened clear coat. Anodized metals can be etched at 20 watts I believe it is. Mine is a 30 and it's perfect with it, no issues at all. If you can cut through paint, you will have a perfect transfer for acid etching to add depth. So you can do combination pedals. I've been doing this a lot lately and I'm loving the results. If you have residue, again, Goof Off is fantastic.

Hope you have more fun with it!! Get some wood to do too dude. That shit is a blast! Can't wait to see more pics!

"I do not have the ability to think rationally 90% of the time and I also change my mind at the drop of a hat".

multi_s wrote:if you use marking compound/cream it seems like you can use a modest laser to "etch" things on to metal. or you can anodize your case and then do a process similar to cj, from you tube it looks like this can be done with the 40-60watt range co2 lasers.

jwar wrote:I get what you guys are laying down! I'm just a fucking nerd ok!!! Geez. The cheapest high powered fiber laser I was able to find was around 7k. It's one that would weigh around 800 lbs. HUGE.

links? i definitely want to look at it haha.

the cheapest lasers i can find that claim to cut plate steel are this style, chinese ~6-8k depending on which "brand" you go with, but they are basically just scaled up versions of the 40w Co2 amazon one cj posted. and from what i have researched they are actually no good for aluminum anyways.

multi_s wrote:if you use marking compound/cream it seems like you can use a modest laser to "etch" things on to metal. or you can anodize your case and then do a process similar to cj, from you tube it looks like this can be done with the 40-60watt range co2 lasers.

I would love it that stuff worked on low-wattage lasers because it would open up a lot more possibilities.

If you have a specific video link or two, I'll definitely check it out. If it is rated for low-wattage use, I'll give it a try and report back.

With the machine you have, it may or may not work. I can send you some Cermark if you want to try it. You have to dilude it and mix it yourself, but it's super easy. It's a 1:2 ratio with denatured alcohol. You want to use a foam brush to apply it and let it air dry. It takes about 5-10 minutes max to dry.

It's super expensive too, so I'd take the sample if you're interested in trying. I'll give you enough to at least see if it's usable. If not, no waste. It won't hurt anything.

I've never heard of the brand you linked but it could work. I'll ask some of my fellow laser nerd friends. I didn't see a price on it though. Maybe I missed it?

multi_s wrote:

jwar wrote:I get what you guys are laying down! I'm just a fucking nerd ok!!! Geez. The cheapest high powered fiber laser I was able to find was around 7k. It's one that would weigh around 800 lbs. HUGE.

links? i definitely want to look at it haha.

the cheapest lasers i can find that claim to cut plate steel are this style, chinese ~6-8k depending on which "brand" you go with, but they are basically just scaled up versions of the 40w Co2 amazon one cj posted. and from what i have researched they are actually no good for aluminum anyways.

Also 550kg (~1200pounds?)

So this was several months ago, so I'm not sure if they still are around.

Here's a super nerdy review that will be mega helpful on Chines lasers written by a guy I know.

From what i read a while ago you need more like 20-30 watts to get most of the compounds to work properly. Not to say there is not one that could work at lower powers but typically i think that is the minimum when you read through data sheets etc.

Steel is easier to laser cut than aluminium, due to the latter's excellent heat conductivity.

I started collecting the parts to build a CNC mill over ten years ago, the market and tech (and my own application) has changed enough that I'm considering going with a laser cutter instead of rotary mill, though the gantry will be built to support both. It's kind of stupid at this point, my interest was piqued before desk mills were a thing, and I therefore have more already invested in linear bearings and motor controllers than a modest turn key unit would have run.

I'm looking forward to watching the fun with lasers. I have an old hundred some odd pound rack PSU for a HeNe or some other non cutting laser format that can supply ~1KW if memory serves, so I'm hoping I can tailor current limiting, voltage and frequency to something useful and safe with a standard cutting head. But at present I'm still in absorbing information before I make a move mode.

Anyway,

D.o.S. wrote:This thing is like the Blue Box on the amount of acid that lands you in the ER pretending to play it straight while you try and ignore the fact that the walls are dripping oil.

crochambeau wrote:Steel is easier to laser cut than aluminium, due to the latter's excellent heat conductivity.

I started collecting the parts to build a CNC mill over ten years ago, the market and tech (and my own application) has changed enough that I'm considering going with a laser cutter instead of rotary mill, though the gantry will be built to support both. It's kind of stupid at this point, my interest was piqued before desk mills were a thing, and I therefore have more already invested in linear bearings and motor controllers than a modest turn key unit would have run.

I'm looking forward to watching the fun with lasers. I have an old hundred some odd pound rack PSU for a HeNe or some other non cutting laser format that can supply ~1KW if memory serves, so I'm hoping I can tailor current limiting, voltage and frequency to something useful and safe with a standard cutting head. But at present I'm still in absorbing information before I make a move mode.

Anyway,

Something to take into consideration when using steel and lasers.

The laser beam does get hot enough and it works fan-fucking-tastic with steel. No doubt about it. However, when annealing steel, which would be close to the same settings as cutting, it causes the opposite side of the steel to oxidize. I'm assuming it's some sort of chemical reaction to the beam, but I've never figured out exactly why. Instant rust and bad, bad, bad.

If I were going to buy one, I'd go with this fucker based on the pricing. It's actually not bad for a huge ass machine.

jwar wrote:The laser beam does get hot enough and it works fan-fucking-tastic with steel. No doubt about it. However, when annealing steel, which would be close to the same settings as cutting, it causes the opposite side of the steel to oxidize. I'm assuming it's some sort of chemical reaction to the beam, but I've never figured out exactly why. Instant rust and bad, bad, bad.

Oh, hey jwar, I promise I'm not stealing your lines. I just, borrowed it for one second.. see, no scratches or nothing..

While on the surface instant rust sounds like my bag, I agree that it has no place in cutting. Were you introducing any gas?

Realistically, labeling controls through rust would get more of a workout than actual cutting.. at least until I fall in love with square holes. Sort of brings my interest in line with the original Eleksmaker A5 post.

D.o.S. wrote:This thing is like the Blue Box on the amount of acid that lands you in the ER pretending to play it straight while you try and ignore the fact that the walls are dripping oil.

Gone Fission wrote:Would this be any use for etching bare aluminum, or just something softer like the finish CJ etched off?

No, I'm afraid not. You need to spend a lot on a laser than can etch metal. It would be cheaper to get a CnC kit and mill the art into your enclosure. A LOT cheaper. And then you could do a ton else with it.

Interest piqued. Big world to Google into blind, though--what would I be looking for? I have no fricking idea on this stuff.

D.o.S. wrote:Broadly speaking, if we at ILF are dropping 300 bucks on a pedal it probably sounds like an SNES holocaust.

For something brand new, I prefer to spend a little more and get a complete/finished machine. I don't want to have to learn how it gets put together the same time I'm trying to figure out how to make it work. But that's just me. You can save a lot of money (at the cost of time and frustration) by getting a kit and putting it together yourself. I did that with my cheap laser, but only because I already understood how the basic hardware worked. All of these machines (laser, 3D printer, CnC) have the same basic hardware: stepper motors, some kind of frame, controller board, and "business end" (laser module, rotary tool, or plastic extruder). Once you understand the mechanics of one, the others make sense much more quickly that starting from scratch. There are actually kits that are set up so that you can just change out the head and have all three tools available with one frame and one controller board. I doubt that they do all three functions at a high level, but it just shows how similar the tools are at the core.

I think CnC is probably the hardest to get working the way you want it to. At least that was my experience. My advice to you would be to buy a cheap 3D printer fully assembled and see if you like the process in general. Here's a good one that's cheap and ready to go out of the box: http://amzn.to/2w3cdbg This is the V2 version. I have the V1 and it's great.

ya the shapeoko looks pretty good PLUS you get a community of people who will have _the same_ machine. THat's gotta be nice if you don't know much about cncs when troubleshooting etc. I don;t have one but i would have bought it if it was around when i bought my first desktop cnc.