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Topic: TVC-24L similar (Read 4051 times)

Are there any legs that are similar to those from RRS? $1000 seems to be too much for me at the moment.I checked 3 Legged and similar, but they are all too short at the base. The advantage of RRS is a tall person doesn't need a centre column.

I've been doing some research and 24L is actually to tall for me. TVC-33 seems great, basically I'm looking for something in 24 series range, but 33 dimesion wise. It should be around 150cm with legs extended cos everybody claims centre column is unstable (not sure whether this is valid for RSS as well).The problem with RRS is not the price of legs, but every single accessorie is very expensive.

For example, leveling base is $180, but no hook included so extra $30 for the hook, than a separate plate for a camera, a serparate plate for the 70-200. These are all small things that put me off.

A center column always adds instability. I'm sure the RRS one is sturdy, and maybe ok for a light load, but not with something moderately heavy.

Leveling base? Are you planning on using a pano head or gimbal head? If so, the leveling base is great. If you're using a ballhead, it's not really necessary, IMO. The handle on the bottom is how you loosen the base to adjust the tilt, then lock it back down. As for the hook, the tripod ships with a simple platform installed, and that platform has a hook. You remove the platform to install the leveling base, and the hook can be unscrewed. I believe the leveling base has a little cap on the bottom of the handle that can be popped off, and the hook screwed on instead (I actually got the longer handle version for more leverage when leveling with the 600 II on the gimbal, and I got the one with the hook preinstalled). I'd call RRS and ask, but I suspect you don't need to buy the extra hook. (Of course, they sell them - people lose things! They also sell the rubber ball feet even though they come with the tripod.)

Ragarding the plates for camera and lens, not sure why that puts you off. They aren't required - you can get a ballhead with just a platform, it's cheaper and has a 1/4"-20 stud that you can simply screw your camera body or lens foot onto. But do you really want to do that every time? You're paying for the convenience of a quick release system. The nice thing is that RRS uses Arca-Swiss type plates, and most of those systems are interchangeable (not Novoflex and a few others, there are compatibility charts out there). What that means is you can use a mix of plates and clamps from several vendors. Personally, I have both Wimberley and RRS plates, and I have Wimberley, Kirk, and RRS clamps, and they all work great together.

As for cost of the plates, the RRS plate for a 70-200/2.8 is $55, and the Wimberley P-20 (which is what I have on my 70-200/2.8L IS II) is only $3 cheaper. The RRS plate has a 1/4"-20 threaded hole, should you want to attach something else (monopod without a clamp, for example), whereas the Wimberley plate does not (I ordered the Wimberley mainly because B&H sells them, so I get them overnight with UPS ground, whereas RRS takes several days to get to me). The RRS camera plates are also not significantly more expensive than something like a Wimberley P-5 (again, <$10 more); the difference there is the Wimberley is a universal plate that mounts on any camera, while the RRS plates are specific for a particular camera (and there are different ones for gripped vs. non-gripped). The advantage to the RRS plates is that they have a custom lip that wraps around the edge of the camera, meaning no chance the plate will twist when in use (and that can happen with the Wimberley). L-brackets are obviously more expensive, but again, you're paying for convenience - being able to balance a load upright for a portrait shot, vs. using the drop notch, being able to take portrait-oriented panos, etc.

I guess the bottom line is that you pay for quality and convenience, and RRS delivers.

I totaly agree that you pay for the quality at RRS. I spent 6 hours looking at different options (and this is not my first time doing it At the end I gave up from 3 series I came to the follwing doubt TVC-23 or TVC-24L and BH-55 with LR.I believe 23 is more stable, but 24L is more suitable for my height - 6.3.Can plates freely slide out from the clamp if it is not fully released? Is there any safety mechanism on LR clamp?

I'm 5'7" (on a good day ) so at full extension with the TVC-33, the viewfinder is a bit above my eye level with the BH-55 LR (on a clamping leveling base, and with a 1-series body - those two add about 3" compared to the regular leveling base and non-gripped body), and with the gimbal head, the VF is several inches above eye level.

The 4-section legs from RRS are very stable, so I would make the decision based on height and not stability. For your height, I'd say definitely the TVC-24L or 34L.

Out of curiousity, why the BH-55 LR? FYI, the BH-55 is better matched to the 3-series legs. The BH-55 base is 0.8" wider in diameter than the BH-40 base, and the tripod platforms are sized to match (3-series with -55, 2-series with -40). Putting a BH-55 on a 2-series tripod means the base of the ballhead will be larger than the platform. The platform is raised slightly, so it will attach, but I suspect it's not optimal.

The LR clamps have three lever positions - closed (lever at 0°), half-open (lever at 90°), and fully open (lever at 180°). In the half-open position, a plate can slide back and forth in the clamp but cannot be lifted out. Lens plates generally have safety stops (small hex screws protruding from the bottom of the plate) at each end, camera plates/L-brackets often have only one. With the safety stops in place, the plate cannot slide out of a half-open clamp.

Yes, it was the elevated part that I was referring to as the platform, and you can see the overhang compared to the BH-55 on a 3-series (pics below).

Actually, the leveling base platform is larger than the 2-series base platform - the diamater of the leveling base for the 2-series is the same as the 3-series platforms, and perfectly matched to the BH-55 base with no overhang. That's by design, because the larger base of pano gear (PCL-1, PG-02 horizontal base, which are the same base diameter as the BH-55) would block part of the bubble level on the leveling base.

The leveling base also adds a couple inches to the height.

If your only use for the leveling base is for panos, another option would be the PCL-1 panning clamp w/ dovetail. With the leveling base and a ballhead, you must level twice - the base for the panning, but you also need to level the ballhead clamp so the series of shots is level. The PCL-1 w/ dovetail clamps into the ballhead, so you just have to level the ballhead clamp and you're done. That option also gives more tilt freedom that the leveling base, which is limited to 15°. Of course, that option is $76 more than the series-2 leveling base - again, paying for convenience.

I noticed you asked about the height of the TVC-24L with 3 sections extended, that's 50" - a little shorter than the 52.4" height of the -23. That info is actually on the RRS specs page for the TVC-24L.

It appears you are pretty set on getting a RRS tripod. They are sure to be excellent in every respect. However, just wanted to throw out that Gitzo systematic version 2 tripods are truly excellent as well and have some innovative features. I'd perhaps consider a 3 series version 2 systematic from Gitzo. They make both 3 and 4 section carbon fiber legs in the long version. Here is a link to the GT3532LS:

The only thing that's missing at the moment is the way to connect my black rapid to the L-plate. I saw many options with a clamp, but for me the best way would be if L-plates screw could be replaced with black rapid ones.

There's no easy way to replace the screw for the L-bracket with a BR lug, although I have read of at least one person (with access to a machine shop) who thinned down the bracket at the point and used a BR FastenR-T1 instead of the regular hex screw - not sure I'd recommend that. My 1D X L-bracket has a completely flat base, meaning no way to mount to a clamp with a larger screw, and looking at the 70-200 II plate (below), there's probably nowhere for a lug to recess into the plate when it's attached at the proper position (the screw slides fore-aft along the track, but the rear lip needs to sit against the back of the tripod foot for the anti-twist, so the screw will be close to the two inward protrusions). The L-bracket for the 5DIII has a single protrusion like the ones on the lens plate below, meaning no way to use anything but the hex screw. There have been rumors that BR will release an Arca-Swiss lug as a counterpart to the FastenR-T1 for Manfrotto, but they're pretty slow to release things, and even if they actually announce one, there will likely be a long lag until release - it was many months for the FastenR-T1 (and I was eagerly waiting, since I used Manfrotto RC-2 plates at the time). Plus, in the situations above, I can't see how one could be designed.

Personally, I find the clamp solution to work very well. Partly, that's because I have two camera bodies and six lenses with collars and lens plates - that would be a lot of lugs. It's very easy to move the strap from one attachment point to another, and the attachment is secure. I use Kirk QRC-1 1" clamps on the BR lugs. RRS just came out with an equivalent, the B2-FAB-F (the original B2-FAB has little nubs on the bottom so the lug doesn't tighten down well, and I guess they were losing too many people to Kirk...). It's a 1.5" clamp, so a little larger than the Kirk, and also $60 vs. $40 for the Kirk. IMO, the 1" clamp is an ideal size. The second pic below is the setup attached to a Wimberley P-5 camera plate. I use the same setup to carry the 600 II from a left-handed BR strap - it's quite secure. I do attach the FastenR-3 lugs to the Kirk 1" clamps with some Loctite Blue 242, so there's no risk of them coming unscrewed.

For Black Rapid lug, it will either be a Kirk you mentioned or still the option of screwing the lug direclty into the plate (not sure how safe this would be).As I have no experience with clamps, this knob cannot be unsrewed easily, like if it rubbed against my body while walking, correct?

All in all, I'm kind of excited and I hope it will serve me well and long. :-)

For Black Rapid lug, it will either be a Kirk you mentioned or still the option of screwing the lug direclty into the plate (not sure how safe this would be).

It should be safe enough to screw directly in, but rather a pain in that you'd have to unscrew the lug any time you wanted to mount your gear on a tripod. Also, part of the BR mechanism that resists the lug unscrewing is the reverse tension from the rubber washer being compressed against the plate, and with the lens plate, for example, there's not much surface to compress against. So if you go that route, check the lug tightness frequently.

As I have no experience with clamps, this knob cannot be unsrewed easily, like if it rubbed against my body while walking, correct?

I've never had the knob even loosen slightly, and it takes a complete 360° rotation to open the clamp. I do make it a habit of attaching the clamp so the knob is under the lens when attached to the body L-bracket, or on the side that hangs away from my body when attached to a lens plate.

The only thing that worries me is an L-plate that can acctually slide aside. I like the way the plate for 70-200 is designed. It has security knobs at each end which wont allow it to slip aside if the clamp tightener is in the middle position.