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just add a few things. you probably don't need to size them, i have that mold and the TL158, still haven't bought a sizer yet for 38 cal. and as others said basically consider the top grove the normal seat depth. for me i couldnt get them stable in...

if your holding the mold upright the whole time and in one motion rotate the ladle to start pouring in the hole and lower it to seal "assuming you have the kind of ladle with a chamfered pour spout that matches a sprue plate hole" just hold it there...

got a 220gr mold recently which should be close data wise. 24gr 2400 measures 1820 for me. 36gr 3031 with .5gr dacron was 2000fps. 48.5 H4831 was 1960fps. 2400 and 4831 were the more accurate ones maybe because of speed but thats all I tried so far....

id vote maverick 88 for the low price range. think I got mine at Walmart, since then it has been hunting, skeet shooting, been loaded with literally every object in my house that fits in a shell, had a sand bag break open right over the ejection...

Update: i found a quickload chart someone posted before for 311284 with all powders at 2000 fps for a 23in barrel and it said 48.6gr h4831 thought i had imr but anyway tried it and measured 1960fps. Made 5 for a group and got 1.6 MOA all stable....

well first 3 people said heat treat them after I said im needing this to be a hunting load with good expansion. I guess I was misleading because originally I basically said I want a 2k fps load with acceptable accuracy, but the thing is I shot a...

no randomly in the middle, larry is probably right and im asking a hair to much atleast for this alloy and load. I don't want to try harder alloy cause I want this to become a hunting load with good expansion so ill just drop a grain and re try, can...

I was trying to make a 220gr 2,000 fps load for my 30-06 and did some searching and figured 36gr 3031 would do it, also added .5gr dacron cause someone said they had problems without it. i made one just to test speed and got 2020. So i made 5 for a...

assuming were talking ar500 1/4" is fine for handguns, that's what I use and the only thing that put the smallest mark is very fast 357 hp at close range. 3/8" is more for very heavy use handgun, powerful magnum handgun, or rifle at 100yd, 1/2"...

on stability calculators if you leave everything the same and move weight up and down stability goes up and down with it. which is new to me I just thought length and rpm was all you needed. but also whats missing is im pretty sure center of mass...

I called every place I could and nobody would even take a dollar a pound, im sure they would want to its just not policy or whatever. id just buy the 55 pound bar of pure from rotometals and a smaller amount of high antimony lead and some tin, then...

you know how after casting you gotta wait till the lead is cold to mark what alloy it is then pop it out of the bowl next time you wanna do a different alloy. well I believe I marked wrong cause I ended up with 2 marked the same and none marked...

I tried putting lead bullets in a wood hole once and drilling, think I was going for hollow points. but anyway it wasn't fun at all, the drill bit grips the lead and clogs and wants to spin the bullet. making something diy style to hold and drill a...

I have noticed that if your going for these designs to be expanding, a wfn can expand to a given diameter and be more intact ie. less splits and pieces wanting to break off the edge since it had to stretch a lower percentage to get there. but...

Everything ive seen on fin stabalised projectiles were tested in shotguns, and it pretty much always either breaks from the wading pushing on the fins or just tumbles anyway and would of been more accurate without fins. But this is different since...

im not sure comparing say a 44 pistol to a 44 rifle is the right comparison even if they shoot the same bullet. that's sort of like comparing a motorbike to a go kart just because they have the same engine. for me its more why would I want to carry...