I'm in the process of replacing all of the galvanized and copper pipes to a pex manifold system. For the first phase, I replaced the 40gal water heater from 1991 to a new 50gal.

I've run most of the new pex homeruns to the manifold and also ran the new supply line right next to the existing copper line.

My issue is that the copper supply line appears to be roughed up a bit right before the gate valve (which is frozen open like all of them in my house). You can see in the pictures that someone put a pipe wrench to the copper most likely to tighten the union. My questions is that once I remove the valve, do you think I can get a copper to pex fitting onto this non-round and damaged pipe? Will that union screw apart? I'm not exactly sure how it's attached to the copper. I would not think it would be a compression fitting but it might be.

I'm decent with soldering but I don't have much space to cut back the damaged pipe since it's so close to the foundation wall. If the fitting starts to leak because the line is not perfectly round I might be in trouble. I don't think a sharkbite would be any better.

Also, any reason to replace the current pressure reducing valve with a new one or can I keep the existing one?

Your main shutoff is a right angle stop and waste valve. It has a flare on the copper entering the house. I would not suggest you play with that. Is there some reason you decided to remove your copper? I would just replace up to the point where no galvanized piping is left on your main water feed.

Well the reason I want to replace the line at that point is due to the shutoff valve being frozen open. Any other good way to remove the valve? Would enough copper be exposed to install a copper to pex adapter?

Well the reason I want to replace the line at that point is due to the shutoff valve being frozen open. Any other good way to remove the valve? Would enough copper be exposed to install a copper to pex adapter?

I used a few to hook up the water heater as I do this in stages. It was simple enough.

You could just leave that valve in place and add another above it.

Ghostmaker

07-23-2013 12:06 PM

Good suggestion house keeper. You will also need to shut your water off at the street before doing that.

SeniorSitizen

07-23-2013 12:51 PM

Stuck gate valves can usually be made operational by removing the pressure and loosening the packing nut and bonnet. Those having the gate stuck in the seat or back seat is usually due to operator ignorance.

HitLines

07-24-2013 02:14 PM

Interesting. I might take it apart and see if it can be repaired. The gate valve near the water heater was completely toast.

Now my second question. Should I replace the current pressure reducing valve with a new one or can I keep the existing one?

Ghostmaker

07-24-2013 07:10 PM

If it is working why replace it?

ben's plumbing

07-24-2013 07:48 PM

shut water off at street replace valve with 3/4 flared ball valve turn with brass or copper then install regulator ...then go to pex..we always keep piping that comes into house brass or copper for support....ben sr

Ghostmaker

07-24-2013 10:36 PM

The copper entering your house is usually type K very thick stuff.

HitLines

07-29-2013 12:51 PM

Thanks for the info Ben. Now where can I find a 3/4 flared ball valve? The only ones I saw this weekend at the big box stores or even online were all flared gas valves. Everything else seems simply enough once I find the correct fitting. Got one to sell me?

Or should I just remove the current valve and cut the pipe back behind the flared part? I should have enough copper sticking out of the wall to do either.

ben's plumbing

07-29-2013 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitLines
(Post 1222537)

Thanks for the info Ben. Now where can I find a 3/4 flared ball valve? The only ones I saw this weekend at the big box stores or even online were all flared gas valves. Everything else seems simply enough once I find the correct fitting. Got one to sell me?

Or should I just remove the current valve and cut the pipe back behind the flared part? I should have enough copper sticking out of the wall to do either.

most plumbing supply houses should have that valve...fyi don't cut copper off reuse old flare because there is no room for error...ben sr

HitLines

07-30-2013 04:33 PM

Would this fitting work? That way I can remove the valve and make the turn up, then install a normal ball valve. I called several plumbing warehouses and nothing but flare adapters are in stock.

if all they have is flared adapters...put on a 3/4 flare to 3/4 female with a 3/4 brass st 90 ..now your facing up....or see if they have 3/4 flare by 3/4 female 90..then put 3/4 brass nipple then 3/4 ips ball valve....ben sr

ben's plumbing

07-30-2013 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitLines
(Post 1223044)

Would this fitting work? That way I can remove the valve and make the turn up, then install a normal ball valve. I called several plumbing warehouses and nothing but flare adapters are in stock.