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Building Whiting/Pompano Rigs

Hey guys,

I first wanted to say that I have been using manufactured rigs for a long time. I used to use Tackle Crafters' pomano rig and after a while I found out that I was missing some whiting (gulf kingfish) bites because the hooks were too large. Therefore, I decided to use #2 hooks instead of the #1 hooks on the old rigs. I started using Sea Striker pompano rigs during my last outing and noticed that the hooks rusted and got dull very quickly. After making a visit o my local sporting goods store, I decided to buy the materials to make my own rigs. I have all the materials ready except for the hooks. Has anyone here tried owner Mutu Light circle hooks for their pompano/ whiting rigs and if so, did they rust or dull quickly? I have tried Owner's Tournament Mutu Light circle hooks for catching redfish and hey seemed to hold up well, but I am not sure if the hooks will be too "fat" (even though they claim to use light wire). Also most if not all commercially manufactured pompano rigs use bronze hooks. Does anyone have an opinion to whether the nickel plated owner hooks will be more visible to fish?

Unless they're 3/0+ high dollar hooks, I toss them in the trash after every trip. All of my food fish rigs get new hooks each day. Small circles work fine for pomps and whiting, just don't get some with too big of a gap. I like #2 kahles, in black nickel or silver, usually black nickel.

Well I make my own rigs and I make enough so that I don't need to change hooks. I just change rigs. If you buy your stuff in bulk it will be cheaper in the long run. Get a good knot/rig tying book or check out the bible board here. Some of the rigs I make I found on the net.

I've just started making my own rigs as well. I've been using Gamis #1, 1/0, and 2/0 nautilus circle hooks. They're wicked sharp and, if rinsed off well, they last for several trips before rusting. I've caught spots, croaks, roundheads, pups, flounder, etc... on them depending on the size I use. I like the nautilus better than the octopus, not as wide of a gap.

Also, today while I was tying the dropper loops for my rigs, no matter how large I made the original loop it always turned out to be just over two inches once I tightened it and I would prefer it to be around 2.5 inches. Do you guys have any tips for how to tighten up the dropper loops so I can better control the final length?

Also, today while I was tying the dropper loops for my rigs, no matter how large I made the original loop it always turned out to be just over two inches once I tightened it and I would prefer it to be around 2.5 inches. Do you guys have any tips for how to tighten up the dropper loops so I can better control the final length?

Thanks

On my droppers, I pull the loop through with my teeth to the lenght I want and then pull the two sides to tighten. Took a little practice but now I can do them by the dozen while i watch TV

On my droppers, I pull the loop through with my teeth to the lenght I want and then pull the two sides to tighten. Took a little practice but now I can do them by the dozen while i watch TV

This is the way I do mine also. I make mine out od Yozuri Floro. leader material and it took some practice but once you tie 4-5 you get the hang of it. For hooks I use Gami Octopus in sizes #1 to 2/0. I have found that if the dropper loops are over 3" they will not stand out. You have to remember that when fishing from the beach there is always an extreme angle to your rig and the shorter drops are needed to keep the baits from sanding over.

This is the way I do mine also. I make mine out od Yozuri Floro. leader material and it took some practice but once you tie 4-5 you get the hang of it. For hooks I use Gami Octopus in sizes #1 to 2/0. I have found that if the dropper loops are over 3" they will not stand out. You have to remember that when fishing from the beach there is always an extreme angle to your rig and the shorter drops are needed to keep the baits from sanding over.

Yup, I try to keep mine around 2" - 2.5" so they stand out nice and straight.

I use the Eagle Claw L197 circles in 2/0 for Pomps and Whiting. They have a wide eye for looping on your rig if you use dropper loop type rigs and they cost a heck of a lot less than Owners. I try to replace my hooks frequently and at 10 for $3.00 it doesn't hurt the wallet too much.

I actually found a pretty good deal on owners. I can get 46 Mutu Light circle hooks for 12 bucks. I think that is a little over 25 cents a hook which isn't all that expensive. But I will definitely look into those Eagle claw L197 hooks especially if I can get them in bulk.

One more question:

On Kahle style hooks do you have to set the hook? That was the style of hooks on my old pompano rigs that I was having trouble with.

Yep, set the hook, but let him eat it a second, they hit and then run then crush your bait and swallow, I believe. Been using kahles for many years, never had a problem. Maybe you had too big of a hook?

I was using number 2 hooks (not 2/0 but #2) so I don't think that hooks size was the issue. I might have been running to the pole a bit too quickly though. Usually I wait about 3-4 seconds after the bite before I grab the pole, but I might try waiting a little longer. I have heard that the whiting and pompano will drop the hook/flea if they feel the pyramid sinker. Are there specific sinker styles that will help with this? I usually use a 3-4 oz pyramid sinker (just enough to hold it steady or move very slowly in the current).

if you try and "set the hook" on the bite with a circle you will miss. with a circle just wind the slack out and crank. this motion will slide the hook and turn it straight into the corner of the mouth. i have started using the Octopus not the Octopus Circle and seem to get better hoop up ratio.