Please Critique Sensitive Skin Ingredients

Hello formulators, here are the ingredients for a private label soap formula (I do not have % unfortunately). Is it fair to market the formula as a sensitive skin/OK for personal hygiene type of soap? I really appreciate your thoughts.

Sensitive skin is actually really hare to predict. By definition it’s an exaggerated reaction to certain chemicals, however which chemicals may vary. The reaction typically manifests as an irritant contact dermatitis.

In addition there is the trouble of what does your consumer understand as being for sensitive skin? a lot of consumers think allergic and sensitive skin products are formulated the same way - which is not correct.

Do product testing to find out if the sensitive skin claim is suitable. To find a population of people with sensitive skin you can use a questionnaire such as the one presented in here https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content_files/download.php?doi=10.2340/00015555-1870 or lactic acid sting testing. (10% lactic acid smeared on the altar grove of one side and water on the other side. People with sensitive skin tend to have a much faster and stronger reaction to the lactic acid application).

Sibech I guess I just want to make sure that the formulation won't be too harsh for personal hygiene and does not include ingredients that are on the radar for being potential allergens for most people (albeit I understand almost all besides water could be for some % of the population). As I mentioned, I'm looking for a private label formula, so I'll have little flexibility there, unfortunately, but the answers of folks here definitely help to guide the selection process.

I'm not very familiar with formulating cleansers, but from what I've heard Potassium Oleate and Potassium Cocoate are somewhat harsh surfactants due to the smaller hydrophilic head group and chain length. Any truth to this?

@AVisotsky about ph 7 it is good and for hair evry product have ph between 4,5 and 7 it is fine , for surfactants used in shampoo they are for sure from vegetebale oils so they are better then sulfate surfactants if we take the health side.

While the oils you list as sources are used, they are really in the early stages of the synthesis as feedstock and the tie-in is tenuous if you are looking to be transparent.

As discussed Decyl Glucoside is not a mild surfactant. "I believe" is not the way to go. "My credible and vetted research shows..." is a better avenue to explore.

You have two (2) PEG's (implying their strong plant-based source." However, they are not "minimally processed" as they use ethoxylation and would not be allowed under any natural standard.

I would go back to the drawing board and look at amphoteric surfactants. I would also ask where I wanted to be positioned in the market. You are implying "natural" but then using arguably more effective "synthetic" ingredients. This approach if positioning you for greenwashing while simultaneously allowing you to use more mainstream ingredients. It is an area to consider clearing up your message. "Natural" is not always best and in this case, I would feel that surfactant selection as it relates to a "No Tears" Formula may over-ride the need to be rigidly "natural."

markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.

Guys, @Microformulation&nbsp; and @Belassi&nbsp; you are amazingly helpful, thank you so much!!!! I want to clarify (I explained at the top): I'm picking from available private label options. Unfortunately, I don't know much about each ingredient myself and the terms that I use to describe the formula come straight from the companies that have developed it. And I'm very grateful for you shining the light on the issues with the formulations. I'm still in the process of looking for a good private label very mild wash formula but as you can see so far I have been a victim of my inexperience and their marketing Thanks so much for your critique.

@AVisotsky sodium coco-SULFATE. Effectives yes, "mild" not so sure. Sulfates are great detergents but they are not very mild. I haven't worked with this one, but don't think it is an exeption. As microformulation pointed out have a look at amphoteric surfactants (Cocamidopropyl betaine). Coco-Glucoside together withCocamidopropyl Betaine is used a lot in baby products and face products.

Actually, @ngarayeva001 you are making a novice mistake in lumping the Sodium Coco-Sulfate in with the sulfates;

Sulfate, in this case, refers to the presence of the SO4- group in the molecule. This is an extremely common group. This is the Scientific Definition under the IUPAC naming system. It is not a group of materials.

When we refer to "sulfates" in Cosmetics, pragmatically these are SLS, SLES, ALS, and ALES for the most part. It becomes a "marketing" designation.

"Sulfates" (SLS, SLES, ALS, and ALES) are not the "harsh" surfactants that they are said to be. In a balanced surfactant system, the irritation is minimal. True, SLS is used in Dermatology for patch testing, but honestly, most surfactants would serve this purpose.

If any compound gave me pause it might be the Coco-Glucoside, but again, with a properly designed surfactant system this is minimized.

However, if I were going for a tear-free product, ONCE AGAIN, I would look at the Amphoteric surfactants and sample Formulations.

As far as items for a "sensitive skin", you will have a difficult time scoring this factor regarding ingredients, It is quite variable. At best I would look at each raw material and see if any glaring issues arise.

If "natural" (ugh) is mentioned as a factor, the second material is better.

As far as a Personal Cleanser, I would be careful with the genital regions and the perineum. These are arguably a different product than a full body cleanser. It would likely use different surfactants. These are less effective in a full cleanser n my experience, but great for the personal cleansers. Look at some of the Ajinomoto products.

markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.

@Microformulation, thank you for your comment. I am not supporting any anti-sulfates chemophobia, but, it is my personal experience, that sulfates are not very gentle with eyes. May I ask why coco-glucoside gave you pause? It is used in baby products and many face products that are marketed as "for sensistive skin" in a combination with Amphoteric surfactants. I understand that personal experience is not a good measurement of efficacy of active ingredients, but I guess it is possible to assess whether a face wash is gentle or not (irritates eyes)?

Please let me know if I'm using up too much of your goodwill! I certainly got plenty of great advice from you, guys, and do not want to abuse the forum. If it's okay, please check out this formula with Decyl Glucoside provided by one of the vendors:

@AVisotsky, the formula you brough up above is, let me put it this way, not very typical. I have not seen decyl glucoside as the primary surfactant (maybe in some non-rinse make up remover?). It is normally added at a lower concentration to boost the foam (like 3%). It tends to decrease viscosity of the final product, etc. If you want a mild product follow the advice of Microformulation. Get a product with an amphoteric surfactant https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Coco-Betaine_p_273.html as a primary surfactant. This one is used in a toothpaste, baby products, I saw it as a primary surfactant in a high end "sulfate-free" shampoo.

Shoot! I don't know how I missed decyl glucoside. This is the product; https://www.mooseberry.com/Organic-Baby-Wash-Light-Lavender-p/msc203.htmI actually copy your suggested shpiel word by word when requesting formulas, in fact this is what I send to the private label folks: "I'm looking for a private label formula for a sensitive body wash (can repurpose baby wash products), I'd like the pH to be in the range between 4.5-5.5 without sulfates and with amphoteric surfactants such (Coco-Glucoside together withCocamidopropyl Betaine).

Do you have anything like this?"

The obvious issue is that they have sales people on the other side and me (marketing person) on my end. I did hire a formulator for my first product, just wanted to see if a wash fits my product line and try private label instead, couldn't imagine that it would be so complicated to find something. Went through at least 20 formulas already!