basic bodice design series guest post

I’m so excited to be posting over on iCandy Handmade for their Basic Bodice Design series! What a great idea, right? Most everyone has a basic bodice pattern in their sewing arsenal, which is what makes this such a brilliant idea for a series? (Why can I never have these great ideas? lol!)

It’s a simple dress, but the way the bodice is cut on the bias adds some fun interest!

Bringing it home below!

What a great idea for a series, right? Most everyone has a basic bodice pattern in their sewing arsenal, so today I’m going to show you how I cut some striped fabric and added some piping for pizazz to create a fun bias striped bodice!

It’s a really simple dress, but the way the bodice is cut adds some fun interest!

striped fabric (for my main fabric I used 1 yard for a 12 mo size, for the lining-probably a fat quarter for this size)

button

elastic, bias tape, or ribbon for button closure

piping if desired

matching thread

First I decided where to have my stripes positioned on the pattern. It’s a bit of fussy cutting, so plan on extra fabric to account for that. Make sure to add seam allowance where the fold usually is (ie left side of the pattern in this pic) when you cut out the front, so that when you sew it together it doesn’t come out too small)

So after I cut out one front piece, I flipped the pattern over (in this case I actually used the piece I just cut since I could see the stripes easily), and then cut out another front piece, making sure the right sides were facing and the stripes lined up.

Then so the same but with the back neckline. Two pieces of the front bodice and back.

These are all the pieces you should have now!

Now cut out your lining: two of the back bodice, and then one piece, this time cutting it on the fold, of the front bodice.

Then sew the bodice and linings together separately at the shoulders seams, right sides together.

Next I added piping by basting it around the neckline like so. I lined up the edge of the piping with the edge of the bodice, easy!

Next cut either a piece of matching bias tape, ribbon, elastic, etc long enough to fit around the button you’ve chosen for the back.

Fold the closure in half and baste to the edge of the back bodice middle like so. Lay your lining and bodice right sides together. Pin down the back bodice pieces and around the neckline.

Then sew where you pinned, as close to the piping as possible. It’s good to sew it together with the lining (if it’s light colored) on top because it’s easier to feel and see where the piping is.

Clip corners and curves, then turn right sides out and press well!

For the sleeves, I created a simple puff sleeve, and cut a piece of piping 7.5″ long. (Measure your kiddos arm for a good fit)

I gathered the bottom of the sleeve to fit the piping piece…

…then I sewed close to the piping like so, smoothing the gathers as I went so they didn’t pucker up. (much)

I also serged (or you could zig zag stitch) the raw edges on the bottom like so.

Then flipping the bias edge of the piping underneath, top stitch along the bottom of the sleeve.

Gather the top of your sleeve to fit the armholes, then pin right sides together and sew!

Sew the sides of your bodice together. I stitched the very bottom inch or so of the back of the bodice together with some hand stitches, then you’re done! Well, add your button and an easy gathered skirt and THEN you’re done!