It's never too late to OptiCoat, provided the shop PREPS your car properly beforehand. OptiCoat is essentially a permanent clear coat, so it'll "seal" your paint in whatever condition it's currently in, and preserve it for the next 2-3 years with proper care.

If your car's 2 months old, and you haven't used any other protective film/coatings, chances are there's some scratches/swirls/chips in your paint job now. Make sure to have the shop buff/patch/clear all of this up, then apply the OptiCoat.

OptiCoat has several advantages:

a) Makes car easier to clean. Water beads right off, and typically a quick rinse will get rid of any dirt/muck on the car

c) Keeps your paint pristine for as long as the coat is on. Just re-apply every 2-3 years and by the time you want to sell your car, the paint'll look factory new still.

d) Makes your car look AMAZING. I just had mine done yesterday, and it's never looked better. I love that shine/sheen OptiCoat gives the car.

Price-wise, again, it depends on how much work the shop puts into prepairing the car and fixing any paint blemishes. Remember, any chips, swirls, or imperfections will be locked UNDER the coat and will be there permanently! I'm sure you can find some place that'll offer to do it for under 200 or 300, but how much would you trust those places to put on a permanent coating?

In your area, for a 2 month old car, I'd say be ready for something approaching or slightly over 4 figures.

Do you work for Opti lol? But yea, it's never too late as long as you get rid of the blemishes before you apply it. I'm actually thinking about doing 22PLE within a few months to my car. My car is only sealed with wax on top right now.

I would be interested in seeing some scientific data to backup these claims. First thing I'm thinking of is if you attached something with a MOHR value of 9 to something of a lower MOHR value (metal/paint), can it really provide a benefit against road debris? Things are only as good as their foundation...

It's never too late to OptiCoat, provided the shop PREPS your car properly beforehand. OptiCoat is essentially a permanent clear coat, so it'll "seal" your paint in whatever condition it's currently in, and preserve it for the next 2-3 years with proper care.

If your car's 2 months old, and you haven't used any other protective film/coatings, chances are there's some scratches/swirls/chips in your paint job now. Make sure to have the shop buff/patch/clear all of this up, then apply the OptiCoat.

OptiCoat has several advantages:

a) Makes car easier to clean. Water beads right off, and typically a quick rinse will get rid of any dirt/muck on the car

c) Keeps your paint pristine for as long as the coat is on. Just re-apply every 2-3 years and by the time you want to sell your car, the paint'll look factory new still.

d) Makes your car look AMAZING. I just had mine done yesterday, and it's never looked better. I love that shine/sheen OptiCoat gives the car.

Price-wise, again, it depends on how much work the shop puts into prepairing the car and fixing any paint blemishes. Remember, any chips, swirls, or imperfections will be locked UNDER the coat and will be there permanently! I'm sure you can find some place that'll offer to do it for under 200 or 300, but how much would you trust those places to put on a permanent coating?

In your area, for a 2 month old car, I'd say be ready for something approaching or slightly over 4 figures.

I would be interested in seeing some scientific data to backup these claims. First thing I'm thinking of is if you attached something with a MOHR value of 9 to something of a lower MOHR value (metal/paint), can it really provide a benefit against road debris? Things are only as good as their foundation...

Well think of it this way, if you throw a rock at someone's face, vs if you throw a rock at someone that had a metal plate glued to their face, which one will hurt that guy more?

Since the Opticoat covers the entire car and bonds to itself, it'll create essentially a shell around the paint. It's not gonna do any good if someone hits you with their car or w/e, but it'll help vs road debris and scratches from sand/dirt/crappy car washes.

Plus, if the opticoat layer is scratched up, it's $60 to get a tube and just fill in any scratches, vs the insane prices to get your car's paint done again.

And LOL no I'm not a salesman for OptiCoat, but I've done a few weeks of research and such on diff coats/ways to protect my car, and chose OptiCoat, and so far LOVE it.

I suspect you're not implying that Opticoat is in any way like the analogy you used above. Please clarify.

Do you have scientific evidence or just manufacturer and dealer claims?

Wow I feel like I'm doing my dissertation in front of a panel again!

No, I didn't conduct a full series of controlled and replicable experiments and then extrapolate a factual and quantifiable result taking into account allowable degrees of variance.

My previous analogy was that if you put a layer of something hard over something soft, the something hard will protect the something soft. This is the basis for all safety gear, armor, protective clothing, etc. So if you have a layer of hard coating over soft paint, then the hard coating will protect the soft paint from harm.

I DID read several product reviews by other people who have used the product, and from my (admittedly limited) knowledge of chemistry and physics, the principals upon which the product is founded are also sound.

I'm happy to put the product on the car for the price I paid based on the analogous results of other users. If nothing else I'm quite pleased with the "just waxed" sheen it gives the car after every wash, and how water beads right off.

If you really are that concerned with the "scientific evidence" of how effective this product is, please feel free to go buy a tube, put some on a painted metallic surface, throw a bunch of gravel at it, and report back to us with the results

No, I didn't conduct a full series of controlled and replicable experiments and then extrapolate a factual and quantifiable result taking into account allowable degrees of variance.

My previous analogy was that if you put a layer of something hard over something soft, the something hard will protect the something soft. This is the basis for all safety gear, armor, protective clothing, etc. So if you have a layer of hard coating over soft paint, then the hard coating will protect the soft paint from harm.

I DID read several product reviews by other people who have used the product, and from my (admittedly limited) knowledge of chemistry and physics, the principals upon which the product is founded are also sound.

I'm happy to put the product on the car for the price I paid based on the analogous results of other users. If nothing else I'm quite pleased with the "just waxed" sheen it gives the car after every wash, and how water beads right off.

If you really are that concerned with the "scientific evidence" of how effective this product is, please feel free to go buy a tube, put some on a painted metallic surface, throw a bunch of gravel at it, and report back to us with the results

So where did you come with the MOHR scale data? Surely someone has done testing to determine its classification?

I'm not expecting that you performed scientific analysis, just point us to where we can read more on what this product is capable of (such as the MOHR rating).

I'm genuinely interested, but would only consider spending hundreds of $ if this is more than another overhyped paint coating.

Interestingly enough, when I do a Google for the hardness, there's a lot of debate over whether the 9H hardness rating referrs to the Moh scale, or to the pencil hardness scale.

At this point I'm really tempted to just order a tube on Amazon for $70 and put it on something and test it myself.

Ultimately, I just love the sheen it gives my car, how it beads water, and how I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I feel a few hundred is an acceptable price to pay for this, considering a good tint will cost just as much.

Interestingly enough, when I do a Google for the hardness, there's a lot of debate over whether the 9H hardness rating referrs to the Moh scale, or to the pencil hardness scale.

At this point I'm really tempted to just order a tube on Amazon for $70 and put it on something and test it myself.

Ultimately, I just love the sheen it gives my car, how it beads water, and how I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I feel a few hundred is an acceptable price to pay for this, considering a good tint will cost just as much.

Thanks. If you are happy with the end result then that's all that matters. Sounds like you had a good detailer handle your car. I haven't found anyone other than trunk slammers in So. FL to deal with. Garry Dean in Tampa seems to be the closest who knows what to do with this stuff.