IThe hardest thing was getting the hot melt glue off afterwards without damaging the paint. I used a plastic 'spudger' from Ifixit (from my Mac repairing days). It was brilliant - a hard and stiff enough plastic that you can scrape with, but soft enough not to gouge the paint.

isopropyl alcohol will help with clean up and removal....Your lucky(or more skilful ) as the few tanks I tried on failed due to the thickness of the metal and the small size of the dents....

I originally had one of those "bridge" pullers too. Saw the video results of the "slide hammer" tool and got one of those instead (why I recommended it a while back). Better control over force applied, not limited to what structure the "bridge" rests on, etc.Yes, a plastic body putty spreading tool can also be used (with rubbing/isopropyl alcohol) to remove dried glue. In the video I saw they used a plastic "razor blade" with great effect too.

Majority of sport bike axles are much larger diameter. I'm guessing the SR250 has 17mm front axle and 20mm rear? Could probably find a swing arm pivot bolt to fit but it would need cutting and threading. I think Suzuki used 17mm 'gun drilled' on early GSX-R? Not too familiar with other brands so couldn't make a recommendation

Yeah GSXR750 20mm rear 17 or 15mm front depending on year. Easily adaptable. cheap. The factory axles are swaged where the threads are so they are extra thin and light and use a smaller nut.

It cost an arm and a leg! 50 and 60 Euro respectively. To have custom ones machined would have been much more and to modify something else would also have cost a bit - considering I would not have been able to do the work myself.

Found some time this week to start rebuilding the forks! Geeze these ones were shot. I was not expecting to need to order new holding clips (completely rusted out). New seals and dust seals I already have. These, along with the fork emulators, new oil, trimmed springs and the pre-load adjusters I have designed will get installed. The fork legs will also get shaved - to remove the fender mount brackets (will mount the fender on the fork brace) and blasted. The seals were stubborn as hell to get out but with force and heat they came.

Of course I weighed them too - for a before and after. I presume there will be at lease a 100g weight reduction each side here too.

The stanchions have a bit of pitting in them, but it is nowhere near the working/sealing surfaces. So I will polish them up and fill them with epoxy. But the most important thing is they were both straight! And the hard chrome surface down by the damper rods was also ok.