60 SECONDS WITH FYODOR GOLAN

What was the starting point for the collection? You always have such fun references!

In a way we were searching for the modern venus. We travelled to Florence after our Resort collection and we loved all the reproductions we saw of the ‘Birth of Venus’ on every corner and wanted to incorporate this into our collection. Slashing and cropping to create unsettling effects.

This took us to Kurt Cobain who was another inspiration for us this season, bringing to the collection a grungy, more industrial look with a hint of romanticism. For us he is the most modern romantic reference today.

The ‘Pin Up’ was another layer to the collection exploring sexuality and iconiclasisism through iconic 50’s advertising. Alexander Liberman’s red play ground sculptures, Nicole Wermers’ fur chairs and Oliver Michael’s gold sculptures all reflected our search for materials and our mood for fabrications and cuts for AW16.

What three tracks do you have on the most in the studio making the collection?

Arca, Sade, Grimes & Kreayshawn

Who is your ultimate pin up for AW16?

Someone who is ‘Kurt Cobainian’. This person can be anyone.

How does this collection compare to your last?

It was about moving forward this season. Building from SS16 into AW16 and becoming more refined as a brand. There will be distinct stories within the collection and we would say that this collection has much more creative wearability to it.

What sort of details can we expect?

Large scale against small scale, that is the fundamental contrast we explore in AW16. Mixing various textures in one look. Distressed fabrications with crystal embroideries, layering laser cut fabrics in contrast colours and feminising hard wear.