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You might look at the transmitter "sardine can". I had a vibration induced video interference and in my case the transmitter can halves were not fitting very tightly.
I soldered spots around the can and that problem ceased.
I found this by tapping on the "can". Just a thought.
Joe

#1,#2,#3 ------- Current
This is the current configuration of my system. I will reinstall in my 6' Electro Telemaster after some more bench testing and strain relief work. This came to light while writing this series of posts.
Thanks again Mr RC-Cam for your contributions. Don't know what the Wife will have to say when she sees my next "toy" from RC-Cam.
Joe

#3 Transmitter Module ---------------------
This board designed by Mr RC-Cam some time ago is the backbone of my Transmitter/Vreg/Video Feed Module. Like most all of Thomas' projects was easily modified for other needs. Not needing the transmitter connector (cut off years ago) I cut board at the line shown in white. Made the appropriate connections, installed male servo connector, and attached to transmitter with Velcro. Instant Transmitter Module.
Observations:
At 200 MW heat from the transmitter is minimal. Outside air temperature here averages 85 F.
Epoxying the heat sync to Vreg dissipates heat effectively. Barley gets warm.
Can be moved around as easily as a servo.
Light and compact.
Joe

#2 Power Module -------continued
Here is the above but with heat shrink tube in place.
One more Module to go. This is turning into a mini build thread. Mr RC-Cam thanks for your indulgence with my rambling.
#3 Transmitter Module
Joe

#2 Power Module--------- a work in progress
This is a simple 12" Servo extension with a JST female connector spliced in to the power leads. I did not cut the extension at all. This is a splice technique that I used on my boat trailer years ago. Strip the two power leads at different points , rap splice, solder, a little liquid insulation (back then it was silicon), shrink tube while wet, and hit it with heat gun. When cooled and cured you have a durable and water tight connection.
The battery is as received from the vendor.
No switch because I remove it along with the flight batteries for safety concerns.
This is one area that can stand some miniturization ala small PCB with short leads and possibly a switch. The important consideration is to keep the servo extension idea going. That is including the signal lead.
I think of it as a servo extension with an attitude.
Photo is of mock up.
Joe

#1 "P&T Head" ------ continued
Thanks to RC-Cam, a simple kit error, and a versatile design I now have a polished system that I have been chasing for years. I applied the short lead from vreg to load that RC-cam used on the Pandora to my Video Transmitter/Vreg combination. I have tested it on the bench with two 36" servo extensions with one between my "Power Module" and Pandora and one between my "Power Module" and my "Transmitter Module" with no ill effects.
Keep in mind that I am not an electrical, computer, nor electronic engineer of any sort. I am a hobbyist. To date I have not encountered any glitches. Only flight testing will bear out the system's performance and we all know how that can be. INMHO it should work.
Total system weight is a tad less than 4 ounces. (Pandora Complete, Power Module, Transmitter Module)
Being able to more easily chase the 2.4 Ghz gremlins is what I'm after.
Thomas, sorry that I never contacted you about the parts mix up.
Joe

#1 P&T Head-------------------------
While inventorying the Kit parts I realized that it contained 2 each #5 "top Stringer" and zero #4 "Front Bulkhead". I dry fit the chassis assembly and it seemed to me that using #5 in place of #4 "Front Bulkhead" would work. Decided to use the solder method of building.( easily reversible) This set back caused me to stop and sleep on it before I contacted Mr. RC-Cam. Decided to carry on with build.
Looking at what it would take to connect the pandora to the Transmitter/Vreg that I had been using it struck me that all required were three wires (5V,Ground,Video "Signal"). Now with Vregs at both ends, power source/switch in middle that left me with on wire Video "Signal". Sounds like servo extension to me.
Took 12" servo extension spliced power connection in the middle, put female servo lead on Pandora/Vreg, and a male servo lead on my home brew Vreg/Video board connected to the video transmitter. Plugged it all together. No smoke yet. Turned on my bench test video/monitor set up . To my surprise I had clear and stable picture. This was a first for me!
The picture in my previous post is the current configuration of the "P&T Head"
RC-Cam designed a versatile Pan & Tilt camera mount system.
Advantages:
1. 2 leads exit fuselage with different connectors. Pandora 2 leads different connectors (One female, one male). Mate the four connectors and your done. No more identifying connectors with tags.
2. Maintenance made easier. 1 screw, and 2 connectors and the "P&T Head" is disconnected. Pan servo stays in fuselage and should not require more attention than the flight control system. Inspection, remove & replace if worn or malfunctioning. Tilt mechanism and camera maintenance can be done on the bench, field swap easier. This last fact can lead to other possibilities.
3. Electrical connection using tried and proven servo extensions. Keep it simple and straight forward.
Last but not least it becomes modular and all the possibilities modularity can open up. Hobbyist can roll your own at reasonable price. It will most likely never reach the level of high duty cycle professional systems; however, with a little ingenuity you can achieve the functionality of systems with much higher price tag

What has this system done for me?
In the past moving camera and transmitter positions meant major rewires, headaches and long waits in between. As well too many things changed and I had trouble figuring out what was helping and what was hurting.
Now I can move the transmitter with its regulated power supply and signal source and the only thing that changes is the power/signal bus "off the shelf heavy duty servo extensions". We do this all the time with our aircraft control system. Why not the video system? Surprise it worked on the bench. So far I have not had any glitches and my video quality is the same as before. Next I need to fly it.
Next #1 P&T head. This got me started.
Joe

Mr. RC-CAM your Pandora P&T system has led me to optimise my system. Remove one servo screw and two connectors and the P&T head comes off the aircraft. Neat! That led me to look at my set up, and this is what I came up with:
#1 P&T Head
#2 Power Module
#3 Transmitter Module
This picture is of the rough mock up. I am working on pictures of the final layout, and will write "what I did" posts for #1, #2, and #3 over the next several days if that is OK with you.
joe

Forgot about the VReg Board. Have to see if I have the parts and I'll get back to you.
Don't have the Pan&Tilt installed yet hence no pictures yet, but here is what I'll be replacing. This housing has been used on four projects to date and has served me well from Pan &Tilt in the wing of a Rascal 110 to the present. Your mounts will change all of that.
Thanks again.
Joe

Great kit.
I received the SMT parts from Mouser this morning. Took about 20 minutes of soldering with a 27watt 1/16 " chisel tip iron and the regulator was functioning 5.1 V out. Going to install it in the bottom of my 6' E Telemaster just ahead of the gear. This mount is tiny and the whole installation came in under 3 ounces with an old 161 uncased camera.
I would like two more mounts and several of the regulator boards. They are neat and I have other installations that could benefit from the size.
You hit another winner.
Thanks Mr RC-Cam.

Both of my flights were as follows:
1. Turn on eTrex and acquire satellites and set one waypoint to that of the flying field.
2. Set eTrex to GOTO that waypoint.
3. Deactivate the RCAP on the Transmitter.
4. Activate the Copilot
5. Take aircraft off and fly to a point some distance from the field- the aircraft was still visiable but very small and hard to see.
6. Activate the RCAP. The aircraft made a lazy turn to the left and began to fly back to the field. Once that it arrived to the field it passed over and flew away and began a lazy turn to the left again. Each time it returned to the field it would pass over and start a turn to come back. The turn was not always to the left. My aircraft is very stable and makes flat turns on rudder. It continued this pattern until I deactivated the RCAP.
The first time I flew the system I was apperhensive because it was not set to an agressive setting and the response of the aircraft was slow. The second flight was a little better because I increased the gain a little on the Copilot as well as the RCAP.
From what I have observed on this forum all of you are way past my level of expertise.
I plan on using the RCAP as a failsafe return to base type system.

Hi,
I flew a Kadet Senior using the same basic setup that you are using, Copilot, RCAP, and eTrex GPS handheld. I got two sucessfull flights before I had to pack it up for shipment to Panama'.
I notice that in your setup that you have the eTrex 90 degrees to the longitudenal axis of the aircraft. I aligned the eTrex up with the longitudenal axis in my installation, and pictures that I have seen of other installations do the same. I have not flown the system since arriving in Panama so I can not give any further comments.
Nice aircraft.
Joe

Completed MAHI last week. This project went together in three evenings of work and except for the LED was a medium dificulty soldering task. I have problems with LUMEX LEDs. They are extremely small and flip around when trying to position them on the board. Four LEDs went AWOL on me and the fifth one was missed marked or so it seems. Lined up the doted end with the line on the board and nothing. After PM to Rc-Cam I flipped the LED and alleluia! I opted for the seperate programming switch to keep the overall size to a minimum (1 3/8 x 1 3/8"). Configuration is a snap. I can not detect any degradation in the video with the MAHI in the loop. Nice unit Mr. Rc-Cam!
Now what am I to do with it? For a start it is the smallest overlay board I've seen bar none. At first I used it to do just that overlay my ham call sign on video transmissions. Now I'm in the process of piggybacking the MAHI onto an Rc-Cam R/C Video Switch and B/W 200 MW Video transmitter that I have in a box of about 2.4 x 2.2 x 1.0 inches. Total weight about 3 ounces with antenna. The 2 cameras, Rc-Cam boards and B/W transmitter will be powered by one 5 cell NiMH battery pack (2000 ma) with total system weight of approx. 9 ounces even less with 2 Lipos.
Willl post picture when finished.
Joekadet
Photo of Box as is now