This is classed as an IGT wine, and not a DOC or DOCG because of the blend of the grapes. When a winemaker decides to use the IGT classification, it’s for reasons of freedom; any grapes can be used and the local wine laws don’t need to be followed.

In doing so – and proverbially thumbing his nose to the DOCG rules – winemaker Andrea Franchetti has produced a delicious wine. We opened it at 12 years old, so it is developed, and its long finish augmented by some seriously complex layers.

On the eyes, you can see the age – translucent garnet – with aromas reminiscent of port, tar, dried fruit and dried herbs. The palate is dry with tamed tannins and evolved flavours of prune, raisin, bay leaf, oregano and salinity.

WSET Very GoodPlus. Drink now, don’t hold any longer. The window is about to close and this ship will sail. Enjoy!