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Friday, January 28, 2011

My lovely grandmother had a big birthday

Wedding china, inherited goblets, loud tablecloth.

My maternal grandmother turned 99 yesterday and we threw her a party. I guess I can say it, now that there's no one around to have hurt feelings: While I loved all my grandparents a lot, she was always my favorite. When I was a child I used to worry she was going to die and I'd never see her again. I would get weepy when we said good-bye because she was so tiny and seemed so fragile.

She is even tinier now, but clearly she was not so fragile.

Keeping me company, pre-party.

Tonight she told me, "You look pretty and happy, but once you were very slim and that was wonderful."

Hmmph.

Some other pearls of wisdom gleaned over the years:

-"Don't chase the boys, let the boys come to you."

-"Latin boys think all American girls are fast."

-"Girls look very coquette when they wear a skirt that moves when they walk."

-"Couldn't you put on a little lipstick?"

-"Couldn't you put on a little rouge?"

-"Don't put your elbows on the table -- it makes them look old."

-"You need to make exercise."

-"You should wear dangly earrings."

And right she is. Usually.

I've made her sound shallow and hypercritical, which she isn't at all. She's just a Tiger Mother of the vintage Guatemalan variety.

-Vadouvan mac n' cheese. Not a Greenspan recipe. I've made this rich and exotic and very delicious dish probably ten times now and it's ideal for parties because you can have it all ready ahead of time. The recipe is here. I can't recommend it more highly. My one piece advice would be to ignore the instructions with regards to the breadcrumb topping and do this instead: Put 6 ounces of crusty bread (or rye bread) in the food processor and break it down to feathery bits. Heat 4 tablespoons of butter and fry the crumbs until crisp. Otherwise, the recipe is perfect. You can order vadouvan spice blend from Kalustyan's. I've tried making it, but it's better bought.

Glad to see that your grandmother still has her fastball. When I last saw her (at your wedding), she greeted me with, "Melvil, you got fat!" How does one respond to that kind of greeting? I haven't eaten since.

I did some one handed Dorie cooking last night. Had to chop everything in the Cuisinart but hey, why not? The garlic crumb broccoli...yum. Can't wait to delve farther. If I ever stop putting of my houswarming party I will be rilletting and cheese sticking like mad.

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Moro by Sam & Sam Clark. Shelf essential? Yes. An all-time favorite. A brilliant and fascinating book about the cuisines of North Africa and the Mediterranean.

Gourmet Today edited by Ruth Reichl. Shelf Essential? No. Not a bad book, but it can't decide if it's aspiring to be an all-purpose classic or something else entirely. It's neither. Recipes are mostly solid, few outstanding.

Mexico, One Plate at a Time by Rick Bayless. Shelf essential? No, but a very useful and reliable Mexican cookbook.

Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook by Fuchsia Dunlop. Shelf essential? Yes, especially if you're a Chinese food fanatic and want to delve into its regional cuisines. Though some of the recipes are too weird even for me, the beef with cumin was one of the best things I've ever cooked.

The Seventh Daughter by Cecilia Chiang. Shelf essential? Sure, though if there's only room in your collection for one "basic" Chinese cookbook go for Barbara Tropp's Modern Art of Chinese Cooking.