All ye fans of sailor jackets and sailor caps, the National Navy Museum in Paris is holding an amazing exhibit dedicated to the history of naval costume from the creation of its uniforms to the design of navy-inspired outfits.For centuries, society has long been captivated by the sailor‘s image. Popular culture has deemed him a heroic, swashbuckling and unconventional seafaring icon.

The exhibit presents the many faces of the sailor, from the tattooed hooligan to the wholesome sailor men portrayed in American musicals as well as the guys emerging from Jean-Paul Gaultier’s homo-erotic fantasy. From deadly storms to tales from the harbors and taverns, the collective mind has formed an idealized vision of the sailor based on a mix of reality and fiction. He has become a popular figure, both fascinating and inspiring. Here, he summons the ghosts of the past in a marvelously retro universe, immortalized in a Doisneau photograph or an Edith Piaf song.

Designers continue to draw inspiration from this sepia-toned image--updating, transforming and reinventing. Nowadays, we find these stripes, navy jackets and bell bottoms in a fashionista’s wardrobe yet, we know little about the origins and the dress codes of this famous uniform.

The exhibit makes for a simple and entertaining way to discover and deepen our understanding of the sailor’s persona and his costume.

Naval uniforms were regulated since 1858 and from then on, the Navy provided the clothes to its enlisted officers and seamen and established a timeless wardrobe collection ranging from pea-jackets, sailor pants, striped knits and clothes adorned with fancy cords or the famous anchor, which became a veritable nautical symbol. The officers’ uniforms were designed with elaborate braids and embroidery, classified according to rank.The uniform became popular and its influence spread to the bourgeois class, owing to the rise of recreational activities towards the end of the 1830s.Through paintings and romantic fiction, the image of the mariner became largely associated with adventure and escapism. Moreover, the development of the railroad system eventually led to a lifestyle trend that resulted in seaside getaways. The vacationeers were taken to sporting sailor outfits which they considered to be more fetching and imbued with exoticism. In 1846, in order to glorify the supremacy of the Royal Navy, Queen Victoria made his sons wear miniature sailor suits expanding its influence until it became a classic staple in children’s wear. In beach resorts, sailor jackets and the blue jean collar became increasingly common among little boys from well-to-do families and proceeded to become a notable imagery as evidenced in Winterhalter’s portrait of Edward VII or the clothes of the young Tadzio in Visconti’s Death in Venice.From 1830 to 1870, the sailor costume became subject to frivolous diversions. It was consistently present in masquerade balls, including the renowned Bal d’Opéra. The etchings depicting 19th century fashion showed men and women wearing boat hats and nautical stripes that gave the sea-roving hero a carnivalesque appeal.

By the end of the 19th century, the invasion of the sailor costume in feminine clothing became a symbol of women’s liberation. Its adoption into fashion was set out to rebel against the reigning multitude of corsets and mountains of lace. Indeed, the navy uniform was a familiar sight among those who received their First Communion or the sons of well-bred families, and yet, it was rarely worn by women. But with the rise of sexual androgyny at the start of the 20th century, women like George Sand and Colette, dared to wear trousers. The pants and the long skirt rose in popularity thanks to the growing interest in leisurely pursuits and the rapid development of transportation, and were a more comfortable alternative to cumbersome clothes. White outfits swarmed the shores; the bonnets, navy collars and stripes were brought back to the scene. In response to this new-found practicality, Gabrielle Chanel tailored her navy-inspired designs using fabric that guaranteed wearable comfort--the jersey. The sailor costume offered elegance and grace but the real revolution was brought about with the creation the bathing suit. Designed with stripes and other marked attributes of the sailor suit, it had a wide bust and knee-length pants which was a substantial innovation since the women could finally expose their legs.

Since then, the sailor suit has never ceased to stir the imagination of designers who want to try their creative hand in sailor-themed fashion. Yves Saint Laurent, Yohji Yamamoto or even Christian Dior continue to revisit the sailor silhouette to cater to its female clientele and come up with fresh new takes on the nautical look. With Jean-Paul Gaultier, the sailor girl has made her presence known in a simple pullover or an evening outfit. The exhibit shows a spectacular collection of designer pieces from Corto Maltese to Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy, to the outrageous pop style of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. In reconciling tradition with the avant-garde, the Musée national de la Marine revamps the image of the sailor, a true fashion icon, with the sailor woman at the helm.