Legal victory for pie makers in battle to join Europe's elite

The dumpy circle of fresh pork and pastry which has made the name of Melton Mowbray famous across the world emerged intact yesterday when a judge threw out an attempt to block the pie's progress towards European protected status.

Pie makers in the Leicestershire town have been stymied since 2004 by Northern Foods, the giant Yorkshire company which makes its own version of Melton Mowbray pies. Lawyers for the firm halted a government-backed application for the brand to be limited to its native patch, like other local European delicacies, from Parma ham to champagne.

Mr Justice Crane dismissed the blocking action at the high court by ruling that Northern Foods' main objection - that the proposed "region" of 1,800 square miles goes far beyond Melton Mowbray - was misconceived, and that many other European products had even bigger protected areas of origin. The proposed area includes Leicester, where Samworth Brothers make 62%of Britain's Melton Mowbray pies, compared with the 28% share held by Northern Foods. Carol Williams, company secretary of Northern Foods, said it would take the case to the court of appeal: "This is a case of EU rules being exploited to allow the biggest player in this market to get bigger." Matthew O'Callaghan, chairman of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association, said that the judgment would delight everyone who valued "Britain's rich food heritage".

A true Melton Mowbray

Look for its sloping sides, because the pies must be baked without the help of a hoop or tin. Distinctive "hot-water pastry" must be used to allow the pie to stand unsupported in the oven. Uncured pork gives the meat a grey look. Around half of the pie should be high quality pork. No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives should be used. Animal fat content in pastry should be high to make pies distinctively moist.