Iso-e-super: the Phantom of the Formula

This edit explores the use of iso-e-super, a ubiquitous but almost never named among the list of notes material which is present in the majority of fresh woody or green perfumes nowadays. It’s partly so because it never smells like a certain note. As you may discover when smelling the raw material (included in the sample pack), that iso-e-super revolves around fresh woody spicy, at times smelling like cedar, tobacco or vetiver or black pepper and very strong black tea at others. Hence, in a formula it acts like an enhancing agent for all of these notes, framing them and in a way presenting them in higher definition. The selection of perfumes below highlights the possible uses of iso-e-super: a couple of green formulas, a fresh woody blend as well as perfumes where iso-e-super enhances notes of tobacco, tea and vetiver.

Tundra (Rouge Bunny Rouge)

Iso-e-super as a peppery edge

Around 14% of the formula in the sample is iso-e-super, again used to highlight the notes of pepper, elemi and vetiver.

As the perfumer puts it, Panda is an “iso-e-super” bomb that one. Watch out for the effect the use of iso-e-super introduces to bamboo shoots and citron leaves seasoned with Szechuan pepper: a sharp and tangy edge.

A very complex perfume with sharp fresh green character. The tangy edge of the green building blocks in Fathom V (juniper, green leaves) and dry sharpness of some woody notes (black pepper, vetiver and cedarwood) are very much achieved by using iso-e-super.

A formula with very vivid dry tobacco leaf and dry hay notes. Which one is iso-e-super? Neither, and both, the molecule adds depth and complexity at the same time connecting the materials in this formula.

Ukiyo-E is dedicated to Japan and most of the notes are a reference to that fact. Genmaicha is a kind of green tea with popped naturally caramelized rice. It smells of burned sugar and has a smoky and bitter aroma. Iso-e-super is a perfect material to make this specialty tea accord more convincing.