Hi all. I couldnt find any related info of this topic in our 60-66 truck pages. So sorry if Im asking for the millionth time!

Me and my buddy took out his old 350 engine and attempted to drop in his new 454 engine. We were unsuccessful in getting it lined up to mount before the sun went down. It is my guess that the Headers that he had installed on the block already are getting in the way.

However, even if we remove them for the install what other types of issues are we likely to find? He is using the same perches he had on the 350 and running a 350 trans. Thanks so much.

The left header is not going to clean the perch. And yes you have to drop the engine in first and put the headers in from under the truck. I used these mounts for my BB.. And I still had to shim the mounts up about 3/16" to get the left one to clear..

Vic,
Not sure if the original mounts will work on a BBC as I used the front x-member from an '80 donor with the clamshells. I know they will bolt on but don't know if they make it sit too high? Your header problems may be the original mounts also. My 2" primary headers will go in with the motor already in with no problems. I did have to grind a lil' out of the passenger side frame rail, but I also moved my engine to the forward holes. If you are using the rear holes I think you will have valve cover to firewall, dist if HEI, clearance problems also, but it can be massaged with a F*%d wrench (BFH).

Other than needing a bigger/better rad possibly, shouldn't be too much else to worry about. Take a look at my pics on my Yahoo site if you want to, or ask and I will get some new/different pics for you, don't mind at all. I am sure I have forgot something but just ask. Or give me shout on Yahoo Mess.

You have to move the trans forward also with the trans x-member. You will have to lengthen driveshaft. Which water pump are you running short or long? If long you will need to modify the radiator brackets for rad clearance unless you are running elecric fans. Yes full length headers would be a plus. Will look up some part #'s for you tonight for them.

Trans linkage will need tweaked, throttle linkage. What kind of radiator are you running? May not be sufficient for the BB. Look at Pershs page for "Install an Aluminum Rad Economically"

I have to get ready for work but this is just a couple things that will be required.

i have got a 454 in a 63 gmc suburan.i did not have to modify the firewall.i use a HEI. i used the stock radiator just had it 4 core.i use a long waterpump. i used stock manifolds with 700r4 with a Lokar floor shifter.ihad to get drive shaft modified,runs great

I think the 63 firewall is differnt. They may have changed them due to heater room. It seems all the 63 guys and just drop it in and slide it back with no problems but then again I could be wrong. BB mounts are differnt in the later 60's trucks then the SB mounts. It is just the way it is.

I would say that it is a aftermarket piece, by the way, if I had known at the time, I would have got those instead of trimming the inner frame rails to accommodate the 1974 Chevy truck big block perches/towers.

I just looked at the picture and noticed it looks like John had to trim his inner framerail for the aftermarket perches, so I guess it's the same if you go with aftermarket or the 1974 GM ones like I used.

You will only have to cut the frame back about 1/2". I drew a line and cut it with a jig saw and a metal blade. You get much better control that way. I also curved it so it would kinda look factory. Set the engine in bolted up to the tranny leave the hoist on the engine of course and set the perches in with the mounts on them and see where you need to trim the frame. You should be able to trim the frame with a jig saw and the engine in there if you lift it high enough. If not you will have to pull it. Like mentioned before somewhere. You have to pull it many times. I did, but then again I was doing something totaly differnt.

If you need to make some dimples in the firewall to clear valve covers (and there is no other way around it), you can get a HF hydraulic ram kit for bodywork, it will have a hydraulic ram that can be used with a ball (comes in the kit) - test fit the motor, mark for the dimples, then pull the motor out and use the ram to create the dimples. It will have a MUCH more finished look than using a hammer.