MatraSport Forum

I have updated the brake overhaul booklet very slightly, and it now contains the comparison sketch to show the important difference between the front and rear pads. Some images have been changed which should make the page display faster too. It is available as before from my website FAQ 3rd page.

Cheers. I seem to have lost this Booket, but could use it in the foreseeable future. However the link is not working any more. Does anybody have it?

You need to make sure you are not using an old cached page and link.

If you are using an old link - no it won't work. I changed ISP's recently if you remember, as I notified everyone here that my site and email was down for a week or so. However, it definitely is working as I have just downloaded a copy myself... but you must go in to the FAQ third page and click on the either link on that page.

I am in the process of updating the booklet further to give a better overview of the front brakes; and to include the brake master cylinder, now we can get seals for the master cylinder from Simon. Keep a look out. I will announce it here too.

---- and to include the brake master cylinder, now we can get seals for the master cylinder from Simon. Keep a look out. I will announce it here too.

Roy

I overhauled the master cylinder this fall, and I made a post with photos.

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,2023.0.html

A particularly valuable piece of info is, that there is a perpendicular hole in the cotter pins, which allows you to pull out the pins with relative ease. I hope you include that in the booklet.

Also place close attention to which way the seals are mounted on the pistons before removing them (take a picture as reminder)

With a little care, you do not lose very much brake fluid in the lines from the master cylinder (bend them slightly upward before unscrewing) Then after reassembly and filling the reservoir, you can take off a wheel from each brake circuit and press in the caliper piston. That pushes enough fluid back into the reservoir, to clear out any bubbles in the top of the lines. Result, rock hard brake pedal. ;D

That said, honing the master cylinder and replacing the seals is a relative easy afternoon job.

O.K. it is now available. If you are in the FAQ third page there is a link to download the manual. Otherwise you can use: http://web.me.com/roy4matra/Matra_Enthusiasts/pdf/Brakes.pdf to go to it directly. If you find any errors please let me know as I can then correct them. Thanks.

The new booklet is super and I'm glad to see the inclusion of the master brake cylinder overhaul. Wish I had had that last fall, when I overhauled mine ;D It gave a few grey hairs until I discovered the holes in the cotter pins, which allow them to be removed with ease.

Perhaps you could mention that the kit from Simon includes a small bag of grease (silicon I think). When applied to the new seals and the metal on the piston, it allows easy installation and reduce the risk of scratching or tearing the seals.

Very nice tutorial Roy.The old one helped me a lot in my brake overhaul, and now it is even more complete describing the piston settings and the master cylinder.I have only one remark.In the tutorial is stated that you can use the baggy caliper, and that is true, but not in all cases it is a direct fit.Is there more then one type of baggy caliper?A fellow member did try to use one in a Murena but the handbrake lever is not equal, it has a different angle.He had to use the lever from the murena.See the pic and notice the different angle.The rusted one is ofcourse from the baggy.(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/1285/bagmurhbrke.jpg) (http://img718.imageshack.us/i/bagmurhbrke.jpg/)pic Urbain.

Very nice tutorial Roy.The old one helped me a lot in my brake overhaul, and now it is even more complete describing the piston settings and the master cylinder.I have only one remark.In the tutorial is stated that you can use the baggy caliper, and that is true, but not in all cases it is a direct fit.Is there more then one type of baggy caliper?A fellow member did try to use one in a Murena but the handbrake lever is not equal, it has a different angle.He had to use the lever from the murena.

You are quite correct, and thanks for reminding me. I am so used to overhauling these things now, I can easily forget things like this even though I know them. In fact you can use the calipers from the rear of an Alpine A110S 1600 as long as again you change the hand brake levers...

I will update the book to include that, thanks again Oetker.

Oh, and to answer another question - it is locked against copying and printing I'm afraid. It is meant for personal use, but I found even the Lotus club were displaying the old one on their website without asking my permission (yes that's another car that also uses this caliper) so I have locked it this time. Sorry.

While you're about it Roy, could you include a source and/or part numbers for the rubbers that seal the reservoir to the cylinder. I think it's unfortunate that the kit doesn't include these as it's always a good idea to replace them. I had a kit for a Princess "wedge" , which has a similar cylinder, and that not only included the rubbers but new roll pins as well.

While you're about it Roy, could you include a source and/or part numbers for the rubbers that seal the reservoir to the cylinder. I think it's unfortunate that the kit doesn't include these as it's always a good idea to replace them...

Well Simon does sell these seals too, but at over 8 Euros each they are far too expensive. They are so common that they should be much cheaper (and included in the kit) but the odd occasion I have needed them, I have bought them from Renault where they are half the price (how often can you say that!). However, I'm trying to source them directly from a company in the U.K. so they may be slightly cheaper again, and I will include that part number if I get them. In the meantime I have included the old Talbot number which may help.

The manual has been updated very slightly now with various suggestions on this forum. Thanks also to Anders for proof-reading the booklet.

So far I opned 3 boosters and I found them all in good shape, rusted but seals were all perfect.However they are best with some small maintenance..Open them like this.(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/3373/remboost2.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/remboost2.jpg/)pic urbain.

The only thing that we found bad in 3 boosters is the foam where air is sucked in.(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/5424/remboost3.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/remboost3.jpg/)pic Urbain.

Clean this parts and control for rips or wear.(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2694/remboost4.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/remboost4.jpg/)pic Urbain.

Also the big rubber that seal the compleet booster need control.

You can cut a piece from whatever you can use as a filter.(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/174/p1020446medium.jpg)

Control Vacuum inlet valve for leaks.(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/7228/p1020457medium.jpg)

However there are kits to be found (but difficult) for around €35.-, but the only thing you use is the foam and the seal.(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3336/p1020461medium.jpg)

After that a derust and spray, and it will look very nice.(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/4386/p1020458medium.jpg)

No, there are membranes that have have different sizes.The Peugeot number for the original kit is 4599.21 but Peugeot dealers don't have this anymorein the whole of Europe.

If i put this number in my parts-bible some numbers from Bosch and Renault come up.It seams this kits are used in twingo's Berlingo's Clio's and a lot more.This is not verified by me as correct.(http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8687/bbkit.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/bbkit.jpg/)

If you want the original thing I have a German adress that have a load of old stock Peugeot parts.I ordered mine there.

No, there are membranes that have have different sizes.The Peugeot number for the original kit is 4599.21 but Peugeot dealers don't have this anymorein the whole of Europe.

If i put this number in my parts-bible some numbers from Bosch and Renault come up.It seams this kits are used in twingo's Berlingo's Clio's and a lot more.This is not verified by me as correct.-----If you want the original thing I have a German adress that have a load of old stock Peugeot parts.I ordered mine there.

http://www.retro-saar.de/

I did a search and came up with this interesting link: http://www.recambiosviaweb.com/m93/d4685/c15769/l8442410/i162526/juego-de-reparacion-servofreno-renault-scenic-i-ja0-1-19-dti-ja1u-80cv.html (http://www.recambiosviaweb.com/m93/d4685/c15769/l8442410/i162526/juego-de-reparacion-servofreno-renault-scenic-i-ja0-1-19-dti-ja1u-80cv.html)

I do believe you mean the little metal plate in the middle of Anders' photo here.....(http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/9315/dsc2395medium.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/90/dsc2395medium.jpg/)

Roy, on page 11 in the booklet, you say " use some brake grease around the inside of the rubber boot" On mine the boot was packed with, I guess, regular grease. Seemed to have done the job, still there and no leaking either inside or outside.

Should I buy enough to pack the boot full with brake grease, or would a regular type suffice? And would you recommend some on the inside, or packing it full?

We're talking about the rubber boot that surrounds the caliper piston. That should be filled with "rubberlube" brake grease and only requires a small amount. Ordinary grease can be used for the boot that encloses the handbrake mechanism.

We're talking about the rubber boot that surrounds the caliper piston. That should be filled with "rubberlube" brake grease and only requires a small amount. Ordinary grease can be used for the boot that encloses the handbrake mechanism.

No, I was actually talking about the rubber boot encloseing the handbrake mechanism...... ;D And then like you said, ordinary grease can be used here like it was when I opened it, filling this with brake grease is what I meant wouldn't be cheap....

On all other parts in the brake mechanism brake grease will ofcourse be used. ;)

Roy, on page 11 in the booklet, you say " use some brake grease around the inside of the rubber boot" On mine the boot was packed with, I guess, regular grease. Seemed to have done the job, still there and no leaking either inside or outside.

Should I buy enough to pack the boot full with brake grease, or would a regular type suffice? And would you recommend some on the inside, or packing it full?

Sorry I only get on here occasionally. If you are talking about the rubber boot on the back of the caliper covering the hand brake mechanism, then yes you could use normal grease. It doesn't need to be full or packed as long as the mechanism is covered from any moisture that might creep in. However, I use brake grease on all brake areas where grease is required simply as I keep a tub of it. These 500 gm tubs are only about £6 in the U.K. say about £10 or £11 if mailed. One tub will last me a long time even using it at the rate I do, and I do quite a lot of brake overhauls for customers.

You should not use normal grease anywhere near brake rubber seals as it can affect them adversely.

Wouldn't know, haven't put it back together yet, I donæt think it is that bad, it is a rather simple constuction.

On the downside thou, A lot of the parts I ordered Simon could not deliver, The most important being the parts for mounting the brakes like springs and wedges for both the front and the rear.....And he could not give any ETA on when he would recieve a new shipment.

So, how important are the wedges, and would I be able to refurbish my old ones into something workable....?

I am afraid it is not easy to assamble the two shells because the seal between them is the diaphragm itself if I am not mistaken. So you have to press them thightly and twist. It can not be easy without special tools...

Wouldn't know, haven't put it back together yet, I donæt think it is that bad, it is a rather simple constuction.

On the downside thou, A lot of the parts I ordered Simon could not deliver, The most important being the parts for mounting the brakes like springs and wedges for both the front and the rear.....And he could not give any ETA on when he would recieve a new shipment.

So, how important are the wedges, and would I be able to refurbish my old ones into something workable....?

If you are talking about the caliper wedges and springs, then you can get the rear ones from Renault in a day (at least here in the U.K.) If you have my brake booklet, the part number is in the list inside the rear cover. And they are cheaper too! (exactly the correct parts as certain Renault use basically the same rear caliper)

Is there any reason why the banjo is fitted to the top inlet on the rear caliper? It seems it just complicates things with an extra bleed nipple, drilled banjo etc. Is there any reason why one can't correct this now that I'm fixing everything else down there....?

(But wasn't it mounted correctly with the banjo lowest and nipple on top...? ???)

I have just been talking to Jürgen Roterberg(VERY helpful guy with much knowhow) about the rear calipers. It seems that the brakehoses were making contact with the propshaft when mounted on the bottomside, and this was the reason for switching position of the banjo to the top, and therefore the need for a nipple in the banjo.Will perhaps see if there is a way of routing the hose so they dont make contact when I reassemble the rear calipers and brakes.