Monday, 12 October 2009

Ageing Cumbrians in desert storm !

They might have 146 years between them but Lakeland legend Paul Ross- a long term Colorado resident- and a little known British mountaineer, Chris Bonington who happens to live in Paul's old stomping ground, proved they are still capable of ferreting out classic three star routes. Albeit, far from the bracken wreathed, black moss crusted crags of Borrowdale and in this case, the vastness of the Utah desert near Three Fingers National Park in the San Rafael Swell area. Climbing with Lance Bateman, Paul and Chris established an 830', six pitch, US 5.9 (UK HVS-5a/b) on the impressive Triple Buttress.

Details below are from Paul Ross.

Description

The Route was named after the part of Britain where Chris still lives and Paul used to! Starts just right of the slot canyon and left of "Mellow Yellow" P1). 4th/5th class 150' up broken rock to below a groove that is up to the right.From here the pitches and rock is of very good quality.P2).Move out left and follow an easy slab that curves up to the right to a short wall over this to a good thread (in place) below a block. 160' '5.6R P3).Up nice slab in right corner then to a groove (5.8 with pro) on the left go to left edge and double anchors.200 5.8 P4)Up the edge passed a couple of thin moves then follow the edge to double anchors. 170'5.7R P5) About a 100'of 5.6R slab to a short steep right facing corner with pro then move over to the left edge and double anchors. 200'5.9 P6).Easy slab for a 100' to a large ledge system .Junction with the top of Mellow Yellow. Descent>. Rap Anchors of M-Y are found about 30' down at the top of a groove (Mellow Y)Rap this pitch (200') to a big ledge.Here one will see another set of rap anchors that descend MY.A more direct rap can be made down a route just north of M-Y .Scramble 30'along the ledge to the north then down to the right will be seen rap anchors at the top of the long groove of the route "Lance-A-Lot" From here a 200' rap to a small ledge.then another rap to low angled slabs.These are 4th classed 400' first up to the right then left down a groove and continue to ground.(Future plan is to install other rap anchors to the gully that will avoid the slab scramble)

Location

Park about A 1/4 mile from entrance to Three Finger Canyon. The Triple Buttress area is the steeper line of rock straight opposite ..see photos.

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To Hatch a Crow

Welcome to footless crow- Croeso i Bran di-droed

Footless Crow aims to provide the best in British outdoor writing in a unique 'blogazine' format. Offering new articles and republishing classic articles from the past which have been cherry picked from UK climbing/outdoor magazines and club journals. In this I am pleased to have received the support of many of the UK's top outdoor writers who see Footless Crow as a perfect medium to air unpublished works and see old works republished in a format which was inconceivable when they were first written!As a non commercial media,the blogazine acknowledges the contribution that publications like Loose Scree and The Angry Corrie have made in the world of mountain literature. Providing accessible quality writing through a low cost 'zine' format. Footless Crow hopes to emulate these publications by also providing content which is unashamedly traditional and celebrates the finest virtues of British mountaineering!

All published works and photographs have been fully approved by the authors who of course retain copyright. The usual rules and restrictions of copyright apply.Hope you enjoy the content which aims to provide a new extended article each week. If you have any comments or would like to contribute something which fits in with the 'Footless' concept then email me at ......

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* Since late 2011, the site has changed from a structured weekly article based format to a less formal arrangement which will see climbing and occasionally,eco news,art features and reviews appearing alongside articles.

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Why 'Footless Crow' ?

Footless Crow is a seminal rock climb in the Lake District of Northern England. It was the creation of legendary British climber Pete Livesey-1943-1998. Livesey was one of the new breed of climbers who eschewed the traditional laid back, fags and booze, ethic prevalent at the time and instead pursued a rigid training regime designed to increase his physical and mental attributes to the extent that he could push British climbing to new technical standards. In effect he was one of the first UK rock athletes.Footless Crow was a breakthrough climb which at the time was the hardest climb in the Lakes at E5-6c (US 5-13a). Currently E6-6c due to a flake peeling off.First climbed as an aid route by 50's Lakes legend, Paul Ross and then called -The Great Buttress-. Livesey's much rehearsed test piece was finally led on the 19th April,1974 to the wide eyed astonishment of the UK climbing community. One well known climber was said to have hung up his climbing boots after witnessing the ascent !The name Footless Crow was a brilliant piece of imagination from Livesey who claimed that as there was almost nowhere on the route where he could rest he had to hop about like a footless crow.

So now you know.

In 1976 I saw Ron Fawcett, rock-master since the middle Seventies, on the second ascent of Footless Crow in Borrowdale, then the hardest climb in the Lake District – 190 feet of overhanging rock without a resting-place. When his second called up, ‘What’s it like?’ he answered, ‘An ’orrendous place – Ah’m scared out of me wits,’ as he leaned way back on his fingertips, relaxing as comfortably as a sloth under a branch.