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Quebec co-op celebrates camembert win over France at world championship

TORONTO — A Quebec co-operative is savouring sweet victories at the World Championship Cheese Contest, including a win for best camembert that has left a bitter taste in France.

Agropur’s smooth Camembert L’Extra, made in Saint-Hyacinthe, Que., edged out the French dairy group Lactalis, which placed second with its entry, made in Belmont, Wisc.

French media have reacted strongly, with the French weekly magazine VSD declaring it “a shameful and stinging defeat” and Ouest-France topping its story with a headline that translates as: “How can it be? The best camembert in the world is from Quebec.”

Agropur’s technical director of fine cheese, Maryse Lamoureux, says they are surprised by the reaction, but believe the flap has drawn more attention to their win than the championship itself.

She says their creamy concoction sold out at the store in their Quebec plant soon after the win. She adds it’s readily available at groceries across the country.

The contest took place in Madison, Wisc. from March 6 to 8, when a jury of 50 experts from different countries considered 3,402 cheeses from 26 countries.

Lamoureux notes Monday that it’s not Agropur’s first win at the bi-annual championship, “but it’s the first that is publicized.”

“I think it’s because of the French press that it’s become bigger and bigger. Normally it’s more quiet when we win a prize,” says Lamoureux, whose St-Hubert camembert placed in the top 3 in 2012 and 2014.

Overall, Canadians did well in this year’s camembert category, which pitted 17 contenders from around the world.

It went on to note: “It’s called ‘l’Extra.’ A name that rings rather well for the creme de la creme of camemberts. Except it wasn’t made by our Gaulois (French) cousins but rather across the Atlantic on land better known for its poutine and maple syrup.”

Agropur, owned by more than 3,000 dairy farmers, scored four other wins through cheeses made by its United States facilities, including: best mozzarella, best smoked provolone, best feta and best shredded cheese (flavoured and unflavoured).

Canadian producers at Parmalat also scored well, with its Winchester, Ont., facility taking first and third place in the sharp cheddar category. The same facility placed third in the flavoured butter category and third in the mild cheddar category.