This is a blog about our explorations in and around the Buffalo River Area in Arkansas. We'll explore trails, waterfalls, the River and various restaurants and events in the area.

Waterfalls

12/31/2017

During the wet season, Northwest Arkansas has a lot of amazing waterfalls. They range from massively tall pour-offs like the 209 foot tall Hemmed In Hollow, to shorter, interesting falls like Six Finger Falls, to even amazing falls like Big Creek Cave Falls that pour right out of a cave. The variety of the waterfalls lets everyone have a different "favorite" -- and they're all right!

But one area that is a favorite of nearly every Arkansas waterfall-hunter is a polyfos area commonly referred to as the Bear Creek Waterfalls -- which is a series of waterfalls on (or near) Bear Creek in Pope County. This is an amazing area during the wet season and features six (or more) photo-worthy waterfalls -- and each is completely unique.

This area had been on our list for awhile, but because it's a bushwack, and there are only a few write-ups about the area, it was a bit intimidating because not all bushwacks are as easy to follow as others.

But this area is pretty easy to find during the peak season (during wet conditions, winter through early spring), and the trail, while not maintained, was easy enough to follow to what quickly become one of my favorite areas of the Ozarks and one that I'm eager to return to.

Getting there

From Highway 7 in Pelsor/Sand Gap (28 miles south of Jasper and 29 miles north of Dover), turn WEST/South onto Highway 123 toward Haw Creek Campground. Go 4.7 miles and turn LEFT onto a fairly well maintained gravel road that is Forest Road 1802/1805, County Road 14/61 or also known as Treat Road or I've even seen it called Meadow's Knob Road. This is the road to get to Buzzard Roost and has 6 different names depending on the map you're using. There was no sign with any of the road names when we were there in spring 2017, but there have been signs there in the past.

Go down this road 2.2 miles and there is a little ATV road on the right (Marked with a metal sign at ground level as 93179A). If you have a reasonably high-clearance vehicle you can turn onto this road and park in a small parking area on the ATV road. If not, you may want to park on the main road -- there is a wide spot in the road so there should be room.

The Trail

The trail starts down the ATV road. After a short, comfortable walk, the road comes to a large open field on the RIGHT.

The trail enters the woods toward the back (west side) of this field. My recommendation is to follow the road to the far side of the field, then turn right and follow the woods-line until you hit an obvious trail. The trail was fairly well worn when we were there, and will likely be marked with sticks forming an arrow, or a rock cairn.

There is an upland swamp just beyond the trail which is definitely worth checking out. If you find the upland swamp first, the trail begins shortly to your LEFT as you look at the upland swamp.

The trail starts into the woods and quickly leads to a scramble down in a ravine. The trail then turns right and starts heading down the hill.

To your left is a small creek that takes excess water from the upland swamp and down to Bear Creek. The trail essentially follows this small creek/drainage all the way to the larger Bear Creek that waits below. As long as you stay on the right side of the creek there should be an easy-ish-to-follow volunteer trail that is relatively free of undergrowth.

The trail continues down the hill, picks up a part of an an old road trace, then leaves the trace, and then jumps back on it again. At the point where the trail leaves the road trace there is a nice little waterfall to the left. This waterfall is officially unnamed and not one of the featured falls on the trail -- but it is a nice find along the trail. Rick Henry called this "Halfway Falls" because at this point you're about half way to Bear Creek.

The trail continues down the hill and through a little campsite and then ends up at the top of Sidewinder Falls. This area is incredible.

Sidewinder is 21 feet tall and is the first of the series of waterfalls we explored along Bear Creek. As the name suggests, it pours off through a turn in the rocks and into a a simply amazing canyon. Swamp Falls (which pours off from the creek we followed down the hill) is also visible pouring off into the ravine at this spot (You can catch a glimpse of it in the top center of this photo)

From this spot, we first followed Bear Creek upstream.

At .1 miles upstream from Sidewinder Falls is Baby Bear Falls. Baby Bear Falls tumbles about 12 feet into a beautiful pool of water.

After exploring around Baby Bear Falls, we went back downstream to catch a peak at what waited for us down there.

First, we stopped off to get a better look at Swamp Falls. Swamp Falls is a 19 foot tall waterfall that pours into a deep canyon. The water from this falls originated at the upland swamp where this journey started.

As you make your way downstream from here, follow along the side of the creek you arrived on and continue making your way down. There is a nicely worn path here and it is very treacherous on the opposite side of the creek.

The trail runs above the canyon and crosses the creek that makes Swamp Falls that we followed down. During the spring, there are amazing wildflowers in this area as well. Be sure to watch your step as to not damage these beautiful flowers.

The trail then drops down the hill and on the backside of the canyon that formed near Sidewinder Falls. The trail runs along here for a bit -- there are some other interesting small water features in this area.

Just a bit further downstream is the 10 foot tall V-Slot Falls. V-Slot Falls is a falls that flows around a large boulder that has wedged itself in the middle of the creek. During higher water, the water flows on both sides of the rock forming an interesting "V".

The water here then forms a super-interesting slot canyon. There are not many slot canyons in Arkansas -- and this one is particularly scenic.

From here, the trail loops around the top of the hill again and around this slot canyon. It then dips back down to creek level. Once reaching the creek, turn RIGHT and head back upstream

Upstream about 75 yards or so is Slot Pool Falls. This falls isn't very tall (guessing about 12 feet or so), but pours out of the end of the slot canyon into a beautiful blue pool in what is an amazing canyon area.

In total, only a few hundred yards separate Baby Bear Falls (upstream) with Sidewinder, Swamp Falls, V-Slot and Slot Pool Falls downstream. So while in the area, I highly recommend taking them all in. As noted before, all are unique falls and add to the beauty of the area.

From here, we simply retraced our steps and hiked back to the parking area. The hike out is pretty steep -- with more than 750 feet in elevation gain climbing out. So while it's fairly short, it will take your breath away -- so take your time.

This area is simply one of the most scenic waterfall areas in Arkansas -- and easily among the ones I'm excited to return to. There is also a lot of other exploring to be done in the area.

One additional note; this area is super-slick with a lot of steep drops and falls. As with all waterfall areas, be very careful and be sure you have secure footing to risk slipping and falling. Enjoy safely.

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 3.2 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult -- mostly due to slick surfaces near the creek and the 750 feet of elevation gain.

06/23/2016

I made my first trip to Sweden Creek Falls a couple of years ago. I made the trip during a winter hiking trip -- which is usually a great time for catching waterfalls.

However, like most places in Arkansas, Sweden Creek Falls take on a completely different feel as the seasons change -- and springtime is a magnificent time to catch this falls. We've now made a couple of different trips in the springtime and we have been amazed by the abundance and variety of wildflowers along the trail. Also, when we were there over Memorial Day weekend, after a lot of rain the week prior, the water was roaring off of this 81 foot tall falls.

The trail remains well maintained and easy to follow, even during the late spring -- so it makes for a great and rewarding hike.

One note of caution, please be cautious and courteous to snakes in the area. We have seen several snakes along the trail, most of which are completely harmless. We saw this green snake in the spring of 2015 on the trail, as well as rat snakes both spring trips we've taken. One group we met did see a rattlesnake among the rocky areas on the lower trail. As always, be alert and be safe. And don't harm the snakes if you can avoid it.

The waterfalls along the side drainage were also running well -- creating a nice double falls.

The upper trail was loaded with different varieties and colors of wildflowers for both our April 2015 hike and our May 2016 hike. It was a nice treat, and very different from our winter trip.

And the areas along the trail were lush and green.

But the highlight of the trail continues to be the 81 foot tall Sweden Creek Falls. On this day there was a really nice flow and is was extremely impressive.

And, of course, don't forget to take in the really cool area at the top of the falls -- that has an amazing assortment of rocks carved out by the stone.

The Sweden Creek Natural Area, and Sweden Creek Falls remains one of our favorite places. It's a relatively easy hike to one of the taller and more impressive waterfalls in the Buffalo River Area. And the Spring wildflowers definitely add a lot to the display.

Astute observers might note that not all of these pictures were taken on the same hiking trip. The snake, and a couple of the wildflower pics are from a hike we took in April of 2015. The rest, including the waterfall pics, were taken on May 27 of 2016. I've combined them here just to show how amazing the area is and the abundance of wildflower activity in the area.

06/21/2016

However, there is another very impressive waterfall in the general area that we found quite by accident.

To get to this waterfall, start at the Cecil Cove Loop Trail and follow the directions to Thunder Canyon as directed here.

However, instead of turning left off the main trail to go back to Thunder Canyon after the second (or fourth) water crossing, keep hiking on the main trail. The trail will cross Cecil Cove Creek and then pass a very nice, historic stone wall and then cross the creek again.

After the second creek crossing from the Thunder Canyon turnoff (the 4th or 6th total creek crossing), we turned LEFT and hiked upstream a bit until we found a rocky (but dry) creek bed. This turn is about 2 miles from the trail head. We then followed this creek upstream for about 3/4 of a mile.

There is no trail here, and nothing resembling a trail - -and it doesn't appear many people travel this way. It was very rocky, and a bit overgrown, and it made for a rugged 3/4 of a mile bushwhack up to the falls. Find your way as best you can. We found it usually preferable to be on the ridge above the creek on the right side of the creek (heading upstream).

The creek bed appears dry virtually the entire way up to the falls -- but the water is simply flowing underground at this point. In spite of the dry creek bed, the falls was rolling really nicely on this day after a couple of days of pretty solid rain.

In full disclosure, we found this area when we missed the turnoff to Thunder Canyon Falls and hiked up this creek bed instead. While Thunder Canyon is a slot canyon creek, this doesn't resemble that type of creek in the slightest -- and our instincts were telling us that this was wrong, but the faint sound of water kept us trekking up the hillside. Fortunately, we were rewarded for our efforts.

This is a really nice waterfall with a great flow. I believe the creek that feeds this is the same creek that makes up Hideout Hollow Falls about a mile upstream.

I've done a bit of asking around, and it doesn't appear that this waterfall has a name. If someone knows of a name for this, please let me know. If not, I wouldn't be so bold as to think I am in a position to name one, but if I could provide a recommendation, I'd call this one Faith Falls -- I think it takes a good amount of faith to follow a dry creek through rocky rugged terrain looking for a waterfall. "Don't Turn Back Yet Falls" might also be appropriate based on the number of times we checked our map and discussed not being where we thought we were.

This is a really challenging bushwhack to the falls after a fairly easy hike to the place where you leave the trail. Note that there are multiple creek crossings to get to this point, so the likelihood of doing this bushwhack with wet feet is pretty strong.

From this falls, we made the executive decision to hike UP to the upper part of the Cecil Cove Loop to hike back to our car on the upper trail. This would be a pretty viable option. Just follow the creek that feeds the waterfall up hill until it crosses the trail. You can also go back down to the original trail the way you came.

The option I don't recommend is hiking up to the upper part of the Cecil Cove Loop, hiking for about 3/4 of a mile, and then following another creek back down looking for more waterfalls to find out it leads back to the unnamed waterfall we were just at. Michelle and I would like to not discuss why we know this isn't a recommended route.

Trail Notes

Distance: Approximately 5.5 miles round trip (if you go out and back the way you came). Add another mile if you include Thunder Canyon Falls into the trip. Add another three miles if you take the not-recommended route above.

Difficulty: Difficult - the 4 miles of trail are a relatively easy hike, but the 1.5 miles of bushwhacking is pretty challenging, although not the most difficult place to navigate in the Ozarks.

Trail Guide: I've not seen this falls noted anywhere else and have only found a handful of people who have been to it

Kids: No

Footwear: Very sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support recommended

06/17/2016

The hike to Thunder Canyon Falls has increased in popularity in the past couple of years with good reason. It's a FANTASTIC waterfall that flows into a very nice slot canyon that makes it somewhat unique from most other Ozarks waterfalls.

I'd failed in a previous attempt to find this waterfall (more on that in a bit) so was looking forward to heading back to the area to check it out. The Falls is named for it's "thundering" sound as the water comes over the edge into a slot canyon. So with a name and story like that, it's gotta be cool. .

There is a LOT to see and do in this area, so I do recommend you plan to spend plenty of time.

Getting there

The trail to Thunder Canyon Falls starts at the Cecil Cove Loop Trail head in the fomer community of Erbie in the Buffalo River area. There are several ways to get to Erbie -- some are easy, and some not quite so easy. The easiest way is often coming in from Erbie Campground Road -- which is off Highway 7 about 3.3 miles North of Jasper. However, this route requires crossing a low water bridge at the Buffalo River, which, if the water is high, will be unwise or impossible. There is also a route taking CR-19 from Compton - which is down a STEEP, unmaintained gravel road that is completely not advised unless you have a high clearance 4WD vehicle.

So, given the recent rains, we came in the most consistent route (and the one I recommend if you're here during waterfall season). To get there this way, go North on Highway 7 from Jasper and go 4.1 miles north of where you cross the Buffalo River and turn LEFT onto NC-2800 (Old CR 125). This is about a mile SOUTH of Mystic Caverns if you're coming from the North.

Take NC 2800 7.5 miles (all reasonalbly maintained gravel) to the Community of Erbie. At some point you'll also see signs calling this CR-19 which is the old name of the road before Newton County converted the road names to convert to a 911 system a couple of years ago. There are a lot of country roads in here that intertwine and it can get a bit confusing -- but if you consistently stay on what seems to be the main road and look for CR 19 or NC 2800 road signs, you should be able to find it. A map will obviously help. The GPS on your phone may or may not help depending on your cell service provider.

Shortly before you get to the trail head, you will have to cross Cecil Cove Creek. We crossed it without 4WD without a problem, but during VERY high water this could be treacherous and you may be out of luck. This was a wet day, but a couple of days after steady rains and it was no problem.

When you get to Erbie, there will be a big intersection with multiple roads all coming in at one point -- there is an old church down the hill, a sign to a horse camp, and the trail head parking on your RIGHT with a sign and a pit toilet. Park wherever you can here.

The trail starts off on the Cecil Cove Loop Trail behind the sign and toilets. The trail is shared with horses (so be alert) and is pretty wide and easy to follow -- and the trail descends gently downhill.

At .4 miles, the trail reaches a nice little pool of water. This is a pool that is formed by Van Dyke Spring and has a nice rock bluff behind it. It's a nice little spot. The trail then crosses this pool of water. There is sometimes a beaver damn here you can cross, or some rocks in the water, or sometimes it's simply a wet-water crossing. Find your way across as best you can.

This is where things get a little tricky.

After crossing the water at Van Dyke Spring, the trail then hits another larger creek -- this is Cecil Cove Creek. This is the creek that the trail will follow back toward the falls.

I THINK the main trail crosses Cecil Cove Creek here, however, there is another trail that heads off to the LEFT before crossing Cecil Cove Creek and this is the route I've consistently taken here since it's a wet crossing and, because I can never seem to find the trail on the other side. Since this is the route I go, I'm going to recommend you turn LEFT onto this trail BEFORE crossing Cecil Cove Creek.

This trail is nice and flat and works its way through the woods with the creek off to the right. After about .4 miles the trail then comes to a crossing on Cecil Cove Creek -- and you must cross here.

This is a wet crossing when the water levels are high (which you'll need for there to be water at Thunder Canyon when you get there). Michelle chose to change into water shoes for the crossings. I didn't bring mine (which was a bit regrettable) and so I spent the rest of the day hiking in wet boots. Plan to get your feet wet here during high water season because bolder-hopping is a bit treacherous and probably impossible for most people.

The trail then picks up on the other side of the creek and follows along the opposite side of the creek for awhile before coming to yet another water crossing to cross back to the other side Again, cross here (and plan to get wet).

And don't forget to check out the beauty all around -- the creek itself makes for some very nice scenes.

After crossing here, the main trail will turn RIGHT at about 1.4 miles at the bank and continue on. However, the trip to Thunder Canyon Falls, turns LEFT.

This is where we got a bit confused. In Tim Ernst's waterfall book, it says you cross the creek four times and before leaving the main trail. Rick Henry has noted the same thing. However, since we didn't cross the creek at Van Dyke Spring, this was only our second water crossing. But since I was counting, and not checking mileage, we went too far and missed this the first time. If you get to the stone wall, you've gone too far if you're planning to go to Thunder Canyon Falls.

When the trail turns right at the bank, there is a volunteer trail that turns LEFT here. It's a pretty worn volunteer trail and follows along the creek for a bit and then up a hill -- then, there is a beautiful creek inside a slot canyon to the left. Follow this trail to Thunder Canyon Falls.

The trail follows along the slot creek for about .5 more miles upstream to get to Thunder Canyon Falls. The trail crosses the creek a couple of times and offers some really neat slots, swimming holes and water features. The trail will also go from next to the water to up on some small bluffs above the water as it navigates the many trail obstacles that are out there.

I would be remiss if I didn't offer a bit of warning here. The rocks and mud along this creek are SLICK. Think of it a bit like trying to walk across your garage floor while using ice cubes for shoes. Or, walking up hill on a slip and slide. We've been to a lot of waterfalls in Arkansas and there's been nothing that compares to this.

At one point I did completely slip and slide down a rock into about a 2 foot pool of water. Fortunately all my camera gear remained dry, but I did have a solid bruise for a couple of weeks and thankfully it was a warm day so the water was refreshing. Really, everyone talks about it being slick -- and they aren't exaggerating, so be careful. The good news is that most of the drops are short ones so getting wet and banged up are your biggest concerns.

After about 2 miles of total hiking, the sound of roaring water will become evident and the trail leads into Thunder Canyon. It's a good sized canyon -- with 100 foot tall walls on either side and a creek flowing down the middle -- and in the back, the 71 foot tall Thunder Canyon Falls.

This is just a fantastic waterfall -- and is worth all the buzz. After spending some time, we headed back out the way we came.

Trail Detail

Distance: 4 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderately difficult. Much of the way here follows a relatively flat, maintained trail. However, the fact that there are multiple wet water crossings add to the challenge. The last 1/2 mile of very slick terrain are very difficult and will challenge even the most sure-footed of hikers.

Kid-Friendly: This trail isn't suitable for young children

Footwear: The trail is slick, rocky, and wet. So if you have a game plan for that, go with it. I wore hiking boots, which became wet and heavy with the water crossings, but were mostly grippy which was nice. Michelle changed shoes multiple times and ended up wearing Keens back to the falls. I'm not sure some moisture wicking trail shoes might not be the right choice. But whatever helps you get the most sure-footed gripping shoe, that you don't mind getting wet will be your best option here.

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls includes the route to the falls, his Buffalo River Hiking Trails book covers the Cecil Cove Loop Hike in more detail.

06/13/2016

I first hiked Alum Cove several years ago - -and it wasn't the best experience in the world. We hiked this on a hot day in August, which was probably a mistake, and the trail had only recently been reopened after a huge ice storm had caused severe storm damage the winter before.

But I kew this area deserved a second chance -- and our return visit highlighted why this a very popular hiking and picnic area. It's a relatively short hike that provides a LOT of great features including a couple of waterfalls, a cave, a small stream and the highlight, the Alum Cove Natural Bridge. This is a very family-friendly destination and a lot of bang for your buck while hiking.

Getting There

Take Highway 7 South out of Jasper for 15 miles and then turn RIGHT (west) onto Hwy 16 toward Deer (There is a faded sign at the interestcion). After roughly 1 mile on Hwy 16, turn RIGHT onto CR 28 (there is a sign here also) and travel three miles until you see a large sign for the Alum Cove Natural Bridge Area. Turn RIGHT at this sign, and it will dead end at a large parking area that includes several picnic spots, a large picnic shelter, and a pit toilet.

The Hike

As noted before, this is a relatively short loop hike (only 1.1 miles) but has a LOT to see, hikers should plan to spend a little time enjoying the area.

The trail starts off behind the lower picnic area and heads down the hill. It has a couple of switchbacks until it reaches the bottom of the hill and ends up directly at the Natural Bridge.

The Bridge is huge - -and one of the larger natural bridges in the area measuring in at 130 feet long and 25 feet wide.

While the Natural Bridge is the highlight of the trail, there is still a lot of other great things to see in the area

From the Natural Bridge, the trail heads out on either side of the bridge and makes a loop. We decided to go left before the start of the bridge and follow the trail clockwise.

The trail immediately drops down to the bottom of the hill and then splits -- to the right goes to the bottom of the Natural Bridge and to the left continues on the loop trail. I'll note here, that my favorite views of the Natural Bridge are from the bottom.

We continued down the trail to the left and soon came upon a crossing over a small stream. With the recent rains, there was a fair amount of water flowing in this little stream.

The trail then goes back up the hill toward the bluff line at the back of the trail. Once the trail hits the bluff line, there is a large opening in the rock that forms a nice cave. The cave is tall (about 16 feet or so) and there is a separate, smaller opening that you can exit from and it's worth a bit of time to explore (kids will love it!).

From the cave, the trail turns right and follows along the bottom of the bluff. This is a really beautiful area.

After a few hundred yards, during wet weather season, there is a nice little waterfall that tumbles over the edge of the bluff.

The trail continues to a crack in the bluff line that creates several cave-like areas where hikers can go in and out of the different bluff lines making for a really cool section of the trail.

From here, the trail turns away from the bluff and heads back toward the Natural Bridge. It goes down the hill and crosses the small stream via a small bridge, and then heads back up the hill toward the Natural Bridge.

Then, the trail goes back up to the top of the bridge and heads back to the parking area. The hike back up the hill to the picnic area is the toughest elevation change in the trail but is not too bad and has a couple of benches where hikers can stop and rest and enjoy the serenity of the area.

The Alum Cove Trail is a relatively popular trail -- but even over a holiday weekend we only came across a few people on the trail, so it makes for a nice area that offers a feel of seclusion without being truly in a remote area. We really liked the trail and will be back.

Trail Notes

Distance: 1.1 mile round trip (does not count additional exploring).

Difficulty: Easy

Kid-Friendly: YES! The creek, and caves will be great for kids. Just keep a close eye on them at the top of the Natural Bridge. While there is a fence there, it would be easy for a kid to climb through so do keep an eye on them.

03/20/2016

Paradise Falls has been on my radar for several years. I'm a fan of the big, cascading waterfalls and deep blue pools and from the pictures I've seen, it sure seemed like a falls I was going to like.

In fact, we made an attempt to hike down to Paradise Falls a couple of years ago, but because there is no official trail here, the route became confusing and we ended up turning back.

So, this will be my attempt to help others find Paradise Falls. Because those that do find the falls will be greeted not just by Paradise Falls -- but by several smaller waterfalls, a cascading creek bed, and overall top-notch scenery.

Getting there

The trail head is relatively easy to find. It is just off of Highway 21 South of Boxley. There is a very large parking are .8 miles south of the little community of Mossville (3.4 North or Edwards Junction). Pull into the U-shaped parking area. The trail takes off on the West side of the parking area and follows an old road trace that is easy to spot.

The Hike

The trail starts off down an old roadway that is fairly well maintained and wide and makes for some really nice hiking. The trail dips down the hill a ways. There is another road trace that goes off to the right but stay STRAIGHT on the main road.

After maybe .25 miles (very rough estimate), the road comes to the bottom of the hill and turns pretty sharply left. Walk a short distance left and then leave the main road and turn RIGHT and head straight down the hill into the woods. Why would you leave the comfort of a nice walking trail and head into the thick woods without a trail? You're just going to have to trust this.

Leave the road, and find you way straight down the hill the best way you can. There is really nothing resembling a trail, and it's pretty woolly in places with sticker bushes -- and I wouldn't recommend this one in May-September.

After a relatively steep climb and at roughly .4 miles, you'll reach the bottom of the hill and there is a creek at the bottom of the hill. From here, there is a reasonably worn "trail" that follows the creek in both directions.

So, to make this as easy as possible, follow the road until it turns left, then turn right and bushwhack through the woods to the bottom of the hill, then follow the creek to the left to get to Paradise Falls. If you try to make it any harder than this you are likely to get lost.

Once you arrive at the creek, there is much to see. Depending on where you actually arrive at the creek, there is a small, unnamed waterfall #1 that is in this general area. We arrived slightly downstream from unnamed waterfall #1 and went upstream to check in out (the second photo in this blog post).

The "trail" continues then downstream the rest of the way -- and is honestly, more pleasant hiking than I expected given the ruggedness of the area. After a short distance, there was another waterfall, Unnamed Waterfall #2 on the main creek.

This falls was a really nice cascading waterfall with a lot going on. I'd say that even if this was the destination waterfall I wouldn't have been disappointed. It's a great little place that like every waterfall in this area flows into a deep, beautiful blue pool.

After some further hiking downstream, there are just more great views, cascades, and blue pools.

At 1 mile of hiking there is another drainage that comes in from the left. A few hundred yards up that drainage is a host of mossy rocks and Unnamed Waterfall #3.

The nice waterfall up this drainage is roughly 8 feet tall.

There is also a nice cascade area just above this waterfall.

Back on the main creek, once the trail crosses the side drainage it starts to become much tougher hiking. It's rockier, steeper, and a lot of the rocks are more unstable that they would appear. The trail also runs a little higher up on the bank than it had before.

The trail passes another cascades area and small waterfall before arriving at the top of Paradise Falls at 1.2 miles. There is even a signal tree above this last cascades area near the top of Paradise Falls.

Signal trees are believed to be a part of a Native American trail-marking system, and the area round Northwest Arkansas has one of the highest densities of these trees in the country. Signal trees were also established by early settlers -- and this one is more likely to fit that criteria as it appears to be younger than a Native American signal tree.

To get to the bottom of the falls, follow the "trail" to the left (heading downstream) and there are a series of ropes that help hikers get down (and back up!). As will all steep bluffs in the Ozarks, be VERY CAREFUL and don't go beyond your individual capacity as a fall could be fatal.

Hikers that make it to the bottom will get to see a spectacular 32 foot tall, cascading waterfall that pours off into a beautiful blue pool.

There is a rocky area at the bottom of the falls that is a great place to relax, enjoy a snack, and even take a quick nap in the sun while enjoying the splendor of the Ozarks.

After enjoying the area for awhile, including watching one of the resident bats come out for a light feeding, we headed back -- making sure to enjoy the cascades and pools along the way.

Trail Details

Distance: 2.4 miles round trip -- with all of the exploring, it felt like it was MUCH further than this

Difficulty: This is a difficult bushwhack with about 500 feet of elevation change, a fair amount of bushwhacking and a lot of unsteady ground to hike on.

02/07/2016

Last month, the water was running really well and we took the opportunity to make another trip to the Upper Buffalo Wilderness Area to revisit a couple of waterfalls we've previously been to: Magnolia Falls, Woods Boys Falls and Stahl Falls.

I'll note that while there isn't an official trail to this area, the path to get there is in extremely good shape and a lot of work has been done removing downed trees from the area.

This area remains one of our favorite places -- and the more I get out, the more I've come to appreciate winter hiking. While the days are short, which requires slightly better planning, the sun angles are less severe, the lack of undergrowth makes for easier bushwhacking, no ticks and a surprising amount of color is provided by mossy rocks and beach trees.

One of the primary reasons we made the trip was to go check out Stahl Falls. In Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls book he recommends following the ridge above Magnolia Falls to get to the top of Stahl Falls. However, we wanted to see Stahl Falls from the bottom.

To get to the base of Stahl Falls, from Woods Boys Falls, cross the creek and follow along the base of the bluffline on the opposite side of the creek as how you arrived. The bluff will curve back around to your left and after about .25 miles you'll get to Stahl Falls.

Stahl Falls is a 63 foot tall waterfall that begins as a cascade down the bluff and then pours off into a small pool below. There are some beautiful mossy rocks down below the falls and this area falls off sharply to the main creek drainage.

I will warn that the entire area from Woods Boys Falls to Stahl Falls is steep and rocky so be VERY careful. I also recommend staying up close to the bluff where it can be a little more flat (and further from the steep drop by the main creek area).

This is a beautiful area and remains one of our favorites in the area with still much to be seen and explored.

01/31/2016

One of the very first hikes I made in the Buffalo River area 14 years was to Hemmed In Hollow Falls from the Compton Trailhead. At 209 feet tall, Hemmed in Hollow Falls is the tallest waterfall between the Appalachian Mountains and the Rocky Mountains, and while the hike isn't easy, it is very popular as hikers are eager to see this towering beauty of the falls with a trailhead that is easy to get to without a 4WD. While the trail to the falls is maintained, at nearly 1500 feet of elevation change the hike is not for the faint of heart, but a breathtaking waterfall and secluded canyon awaits those who make the trek.

Getting there

To get to the Compton Trailhead, go to the community of Compton (8.3 miles north of Ponca on Highway 43) and turn EAST on the gravel road immediately across from JB Trading Post. After about 1/10 of a mile, turn RIGHT onto the gravel road and follow it .8 miles and then turn RIGHT onto another gravel road. The parking area and trail head are just up the hill. There are signs at the turnoff of Highway 43 and the 2nd gravel road that point to the Compton Trailhead.

Also, it's worth noting that JB Trading Post is a fantastic establishment here in Compton. They make a great sandwich, and also have maps, trail guides, outerwear, socks, camping supplies and virtually anything you need to make your hike and camp a success - -and it usually pretty quality equipment that you'll be glad to keep long after your hike.

This is a wet-weather falls, so it is usually best enjoyed in the winter and spring, and during times where there has been a fair amount of moisture.

The Hike

There are two trails at the trailhead -- the one to the right is a horse trail that heads down through Sneads Creek; the one on the left is the main hiking trail. Today we took off on the hiking trail.

The trail heads down the hill gradually at first. Off to the left you'll begin to notice a small creek -- this is the creek that feeds Hemmed in Hollow Falls.

At about .7 miles, there is an intersection. Stay STRAIGHT at this intersection. The tail to the left takes you to Wild Vic's Cabin, and to the Right connects with the horse trail.

The trail continues going down the hill. In some steep parts there are stone stairs built to make it easier - there are other places that the steep slope has caused the trail to wash out a little and makes for some less-than-sure-footed hiking. There will be great views all around (particularly during leaf-off) so be sure to enjoy them. While the excitement of getting to the falls is usually prominent, at some point as you continue down thoughts about hiking back out of here is going to be HARD.

At about 1.5, after a few switchbacks, the trail turns right at a rock slab right along the top of an overlook. It's a beautiful overlook and if you look closely you will see a notched out "U" in the bluff and you can see the top of Hemmed in Hollow Falls flowing over the ridge. This is a great spot to enjoy -- and even a better spot to stop and rest to catch your breath on the way back up!

When you turn left, the trail goes downhill and back below ridge of the the trail you have just hiked down.

At 2.3 you reach a creek that is downstream from Hemmed in Hollow and another trail intersection. Stay straight (left) on the trail. The trail to the right goes .5 miles to the Buffalo River (and this is the trail that comes in from the river if you choose to float and then hike back to the falls).

Follow the trail as it now goes back uphill to the big falls. After a bit you will cross a small creek that comes in from your left. Below here is a very nice double waterfall that is approximately 14 feet tall (note on the pic above that the falls coming in from the left has pretty low flow on this day).

Continue on the trail and you'll come across yet another nice, 18 foot (ish) tall waterfall on the main creek.

After 2.5 miles you'll reach Hemmed in Hollow Falls. It's a beautiful 209 foot tall falls that pours off into an amazing canyon. It really worth spending the time here to enjoy the area and have a sandwich or some snacks. You've earned it -- and you're going to need to refuel before the trip back up. You can easily climb back up behind falls (although, be careful, the rocks are VERY slick here). And notice that when the wind blows, it often makes the falls move from side to side and around almost like it's dancing in the wind.

After enjoying one of the finest places to in all of the Ozarks, you'll head back UP the trail the way you came. As mentioned before, the hike back up is no joke, and with 1500 feet of elevation gain in just 2 miles you'll feel the burn. Take your time, and drink plenty of water.

Trail Notes

Distance: 5 miles round trip

Difficulty: Difficult hike on maintained trails

Footwear: Sturdy Hiking boots preferred

Kids: Older kids will be ok

Guide Book: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails has the best trail description, although it's also covered in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Hiking Trails

01/24/2016

Hawksbill Crag/Whitaker Point is among the most popularly visited and photographed spots in all of Arkansas - and for good reason. However, deep in the valley below Whitaker Point lies a beautiful valley formed by Whitaker Creek, and during wet season, an abundance of waterfalls that are not visited nearly as often as the bluff above.

This area has been on my list for awhile, but awaiting the right weather conditions (times of high water and leaf-off are best) has been key -- and the area proved to be worth the wait. There are no formal trails here, but we found everything we were looking for without much problem and without a GPS, but with the help of a guidebook. I suspect reaching these areas in the late spring or summer when the undergrowth has grown up would be a challenge.

Getting there

From the community of Ponca, take Highway 43 south through the Boxley Valley, then turn LEFT (South) onto highway 21. Just before you cross the Buffalo River bridge in Boxley, turn RIGHT onto Cave Mountain Road. Cave Mountain Road is a VERY steep, very bumpy road -- although 4WD is not required during most weather conditions. Once you get to the top of the mountain, you'll pass Cave Mountain Church at 5.4 miles, the Hawksbill Crag trailhead at 6 milesand then go another 1.1 miles to the "Upper Buffalo Wilderness Boundary" sign. Park along the road here making sure to not block the road from passing traffic.

The Hike

The "trail" starts off directly behind the sign and heads STRAIGHT down the hill. As noted before, there is no official trail here, so just pick your way down the hill as best you can -- if you are headed down, you are heading the right way. We hiked this on January 2nd, so there wasn't a lot of undergrowth and found it to be pleasurable enough hiking -- on the way down. The hike back up was a bit harder.

At about .3 miles, we reached a creek -- this is Whitaker Creek and it runs the length of the valley. The creek will be your "trail" the rest of the way.

As soon as we got to the creek, we immediately saw a waterfall coming in from our left from a side drainage. We checked out unnamed waterfall #1. I was also glad to see this falls because it made for a nice marker for when we would need to go back up the hill to get to our car.

From here, Amber Falls was just a few 100 yards upstream. Amber Falls is a very nice 18 foot tall waterfall that tumbles into a nice pool below.

Amber Falls is named after Amber Ernst -- who's father Tim has spent a significant amount of his life exploring the wilderness of Northwest Arkansas and documenting it through a series of books that help most people explore and truly enjoy this area. The trail map to get to these falls is in his book "Arkansas Waterfalls".

After enjoying some time at Amber Falls, we then turned and went back downstream past Unnamed Falls #1. A short distance downstream from there we hit another drainage coming in from our left. Just up this drainage was another unnamed waterfall -- Unnamed Falls #2.

From here, we continued following Whitaker Creek downstream. As noted before, there is no official trail here, but we found following the creek to be pretty manageable and to be very scenic. The beach trees really were glistening off the reflections of the water on this beautiful winter day.

After about 1 mile (from the car) we arrived at a series of cascades. These cascades are just upstream from Neil Compton Falls and are very scenic.

The second cascade even comes off at an angle forming an interesting diagonal cascade.

This point is essentially at the top of Neil Compton Falls. However, the best views are from the bottom so finding the way down will be important. From here, we went to LEFT of the creek as we went downstream. This path goes along the top of the ridge for about 300 yards or so high up on the bluff above the falls. Be VERY careful as the path here follows very close to the edge. Eventually the bluff line will start heading downward and then there was a be a break that allowed us to get to the bottom of the bluff line. Scurry down here (again, be careful, this is pretty slick) to get down around creek level. Once you get to the bottom, you'll need to rock hop across Whitaker Creek and head back upstream 300 yards to get to the base of Neil Compton's Double Falls.

Neil Compton's Double Falls only runs as a double when the water is pretty high, but it's a beautiful falls that pours 39 feet into a beautiful blue pool. It's a fabulous waterfall and canyon area that is very peaceful. Neil Compton was one of the early advocates that fought to keep the Buffalo River as a natural, flowing river and it was his vision that helped preserve the river and wilderness that we all enjoy.

When you are done at Compton's Double Falls, as you head back, there is one more falls to check out. Literally 20 feet beyond where you came down the hill to get to the bottom of Compton Falls, there is another creek that flows in from the right side of the creek (when facing downstream). Follow this creek a hundred yards upstream and you'll get to Owl Falls.

Owl Falls is a roughly 20 foot tall waterfall that is a fantastic cascading waterfall. I think this one is prettier than my photos indicate as the sun wasn't my friend at the time of day we were there (it was directly behind the falls).

There are more waterfalls downstream -- but as daylight was running short we had to save those for another day. From here, we went back the way we came.

Hike Details

Distance: .2.1 miles round trip to the top of Neil Compton's Double Falls, .75 miles if you only go to Amber Falls. Because there is no trail here, and the footing is iffy at times, it will feel longer than that (and, from a timing perspective, there is a LOT to enjoy here, so leave yourself plenty of time to explore).

Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult

Footwear: Hiking Boots

Kid-Friendly: Because there is no trail and it's steep terrain, I'd not recommend this for young children. Amber Falls would be enjoyable for older children.

12/14/2015

A few weeks ago, we were at the cabin in Arkansas during a long-weekend of pretty much solid rain. While it wasn't great weather for getting out for a hike, we knew the consistent wet weather was enough to get the creeks and waterfalls flowing -- which was all of the motivation we needed.

We first stopped off at Highway 123 Falls. As expected, water was flowing in pretty much every creek and drainage and we knew there was more to see. While guidebooks can take you to many of the top waterfalls in the state, during wet weather, there are many creeks and drainages that provide spectacular scenery that you won't find on a map, or in a book. So sometimes, just exploring around a little and getting a little "lost" is a fantastic way to enjoy the day.

During our drive, we found many great wet-weather waterfalls.

From Highway 123 Falls, we set out North on Highway 123 and then turned left onto Johnson County Road 5741. About a mile down this road we spotted a spectacular twin fall that Michelle just adores.

We followed this creek up stream a short distance. It was really a beautiful area. The fact that this was in a pine forest (the pine needles kill much of the undergrowth) made the bushwhack completely. There was another area where two small creeks merged to form the larger creek (that made up the twin falls) and with the sound of the water flowing it was ever-so peaceful.

After exploring here for awhile, we headed back out to Highway 123 and continued NORTH toward Haw Creek Campground.

Before we got to the campground, we came across two other areas that you could see from the road that were worth checking out.

All of these areas were just a short distance from the highway and all extremely scenic. So even in rainy weather, be sure to take the opportunity to check explore a bit and keep your eyes peeled -- there is beauty everywhere.