Instant coffee gets a bad wrap for good reasons. It’s typically a weak and tea-like substance consumed by retirees who don’t know a French press from a printing press (sorry grandma), and who value its low price over the attributes of a pricier cup. With VIA Starbucks wanted to bring their signature brew–not the choice of a typical coffee geek but not exactly Sanka either–to people regardless of their location. The promise of VIA being that you can get a “great cup of coffee anywhere” so long as you have hot water and a vessel handy.

On a whim I picked up a packet of VIA at my local Starbucks and tried it out. I tested the Italian Roast variety, which cost me $3 for three servings.

You can watch the video above for all the details, but my verdict is this: not so great. VIA is not an alternative to brewing coffee at home, not even with that coffee machine you got for free when you ordered two pounds of coffee. The coffee seemed almost burnt-smelling and the mixture didn’t stay in solution perfectly which I didn’t really mind, being a French press user, but it will bother some people.

The taste was Starbucks-y but not deep, rich, or, as you’ve probably guessed, impressive. It wasn’t terrible though, and if I had to choose between burnt bodega coffee and VIA I’d keep it in mind. If you need coffee in a pinch, say in a hunting lodge (I’m trying to think of a place where there isn’t a Starbucks nearby) then it does the job. More to the point, it does the job better than the other instant coffees that I’ve tried.

I like the packaging and really liked the convenience. When I make coffee at home the process involves a scale, a grinder, and other such tools, so the thought of needing nothing more than a microwave or pot is appealing. The end result wasn’t overly enticing though so I’m not rushing out to get more VIA any time soon.