About Me

By training, I'm an attorney with an interest in constitutional law, immigration law and international law. My hobbies include sewing (I'm a seamstress and can usually be found sewing costumes for myself or my friends.), genealogy research (I love researching my family and can do it for hours online.), reading (usually trash but recently some non fiction legal books). And I'm a Christian, well my own version of one.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

1. Put a new collar on my Imperial Officer uniform. It just needs a couple hooks and eyes to close it but I don't have any with me so that'll wait til tomorrow or later this week.

I pulled off the old collar and figured out how much I needed to add so it fit right. I cut out two new collars (inside and outside), but I had to cut them in two sections with a back seam -- fabric wasn't big enough to cut on the fold. I stitched the center back seams, then stitched them together at the top and sides. Pinned it into place and tried it on and it was too big. So I marked where it needed to meet in the front and redid the collar, making it a pinch smaller. Pinned and tried it on again and it worked. So the next step was to sew it on, which I did by hand so I could manipulate it easier around the curves. I did a little more tweaking today, but now its just about perfect. Or as perfect as I can get it at least.

2. I put together Bob's corset, except for the eyelets.

Here's all the pieces laying out, the ones on the top are right side down, the ones on the bottom are right side up. This was so I could keep everything straight when I started putting it together.

Here's both sides put together before I put the zipper in. The center is the center front, the sides are the center back of the corset.

And here's the corset with the zipper put in. We're gonna do another fitting, then I'll be making the boning channels, sliding the boning in, finishing the edges and putting in the eyelets. Plus any changes that need done after the fitting. But all in all, I think its coming along well.

3. However, I did not work on the Joker pants this weekend. I meant to, but somehow my Sunday afternoon just disappeared.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

I was supposed to work my part time job last night, but they called and told me not to come in. While I'll miss the money, its always nice not to work a 13 to 14 hour day. Since I was unexpectedly off work, I let Bob know that we could do his fitting last night instead of waiting for today.

As expected, the corset was a bit large. We decided to remove the back panel completely to allow for better lacing. We also decided to split the side back and side front panels in half to allow for more shaping and more structure once the boning is put in. The corset also needed to be lengthened (which did not surprise me at all. I probably should have lengthened it more originally) so we decided to add enough to the top of the corset to reach the top of the zipper, which was overhanging by at least two inches.

With all this decided, Bob headed home and I set to work. I took apart the corset, separating the side panels into two and ripping out all the seams. I left one half intact because I didn't need it for the new pattern. Next I started adding to the top of each piece. Using the piece of muslin that had been pinned to the top of the front piece during our fitting and the zipper as a guide, I pinned scraps of muslin to the top of each pattern piece. I made sure that the curves of the pattern matched up as I did this. In the end, I had a nice muslin pattern for the corset. Granted I probably should've sewn the extensions onto the original pieces, but that just seemed like extra unnecessary work.

Here's what the completed pattern looked like --

I went ahead and cut it out of the pleather as well. I just laid the pieces down and held them into place -- I don't like leaving pin holes in pleather. Plus, pleather is rather difficult to even get a pin through so... When cutting out I added a little to the top and bottom of each piece to allow for turning under once everything is finished.

I'm planning to get this stitched together tonight. Then we plan to have another fitting before I start adding boning and eyelets for lacing. I'll probably just baste in the zipper for the fitting.

In other news, I submitted my photos for my 501st application. *fingers crossed*

Monday, February 21, 2011

I am slowly but surely working on underlining all the pieces for the Joker trousers. A few pieces were stitched the other day, today I pinned the underlining to all four of the actual pants pieces (two fronts, two backs) and then stitched the underlining to the fly pieces and to one leg piece. So I've only got three more leg pieces to underline before its on to actually putting the trousers together.

I was supposed to have a fitting for Bob tonight but he canceled because we had some nasty, snow and ice mixture weather hit. He's now coming over Wednesday.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

I put together my IO pants today and my beau took photos of me wearing the uniform for my application to the 501st. I registered online and submitted my application. Next up is sending them my photographs when they contact me.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

As previously mentioned, I'm making a corset for a male friend of mine, Bob, for a drag show. I'm excited and nervous to be entrusted with this, as its a charity show and of course my first time sewing female clothing for a male. It will also be my first time using cable ties as boning, something I've been wanting to try.

We picked out a Butterick pattern 3906 -- its a nice underbust corset and came in plus sizes which was a bonus for grading the pattern up to fit him. The only major change to the pattern was taking off the straps so it was more of a waist cincher.

Last night, I cut the pattern out of muslin. I added one inch to each side of each pattern piece and lengthened them about an inch as well. Then the pieces were pinned together.

Today, I stitched together all pieces with a machine basting stitch and also basted in the zipper. The finished corset with lace up the back, but as I told Bob, I can't reuse eyelets so those are going to be saved for the final corset. After I put the zipper in, I realized how HUGE it ended up, so I went through and took an inch out of each seam. On one panel, I took a little out of the middle of the panel, thinking it might work better fit wise if I increase the number of panels. We'll see what he thinks at his fitting.

Now all that's left of this step is to have said fitting and see what changes need made before I tackle the pleather.

Other things I did last night / today -

I measured how much lace Miss Dashwood needs to purchase so I can trim out her black bustle. I was hoping I had some in my stash, but alas, I don't have nearly enough.

I hemmed my City Bluescape skirt. Then put in the casing and the elastic so that's DONE.

I started sewing the cotton underlining to the fabric for the Joker trousers - tabs and waistband are underlined.

I cut out the pants for my Imperial Officer uniform. I think we're going to try to get me approved before an event that's coming up.

New bustle for Harley Quinn. Contemplating using Truly Victorian 101. Also contemplating just figuring it out on my own. Before MARCon

Adding a ruffle to my Harley Quinn petticoat to give the skirt more shape. Before MARCon.

Steampunk Confederate Vivandiere for MARCon. - probably April / May

I'd like to finally get ANH Princess Leia finished - whenever

Simi costume for DragonCon - sometime in the summer

Pink and white steampunk outfit I meant to do in 2010

Black corduroy skirt that I started years ago but now is too short for me to wear anywhere except clubbing. I could add a ruffle at the bottom, maybe out of black floral corduroy to match the jacket I have...

Maybe a commission for one of my beau's friends for a Bill the Butcher costume

I'd like to do a steampunk Rogue costume. She's my favorite Marvel character and since I already have Diamonds are Forever costume for Harley, I feel like I should do Rogue as well. I just have no idea what kind of costume I want to go for or which costume to base it off of. I'll probably do a post on this at some point, to explore my options. One idea I just had is to finish a leather vest I started (made from an old jacket) and use that as part of the costume.

I would love to finish my embroidery quilt before the year is over.

I've decided to give up on the corduroy skirt for now. I've had two pattern fails with it and the weather is starting to warm up, so it'll go back in the stash for next year.

This weekend I would like to

Get a mock up of Bob's corset done. I did exchange it for the correct size last night, so I'm good to go. DONE

Finish my City Bluescape skirt. DONE

Add lace to Miss Dashwood's bustle

Maybe make Imperial Officer pants, I haven't decided yet.

Underline all the pieces for the Joker trousers and maybe start putting them together.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Last night I was planning on working on my corset commission for a lovely man named Bob. Yes readers you read that right -- I'm sewing a corset for a man. Its for a charity drag show that he participates in every year.

Well, as I pulled out my materials to start working, I noticed the pattern size on envelope -- 6, 8, 10. As Bob is a pretty normal sized man, I need to be using a much larger pattern size for him so the pattern and receipt were slid into my bag for exchange and I was left without a project.

I decided to pull out the City Bluescape skirt and pin the hem. I contemplated stitching it, but really was not in the mood for it. Instead, I pulled out the pants for the Joker costume and worked on pinning the underlining to the fabric. I pinned four tabs, four waistband pieces and the fly pieces. All that's left to pin are the trouser legs.

I work a double today, but I'm hoping to get out early enough that I can cut out the corset pattern before bed. Then tomorrow or this weekend -- the mockup!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

PS I brought the book my father loaned me to work today -- The Fighting Men of the Civil War. So if I have the time and inclination, I can start research for our costumes.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Since my beau didn't want me spending any money on lingerie, I decided to see if I could make something for Valentine's Day. I decided to use a yard of really lightweight black knit that I've had in my stash for years to make a little nightie. I used a camisole pattern from New Look that has also been in my stash for years, along with some ribbon for the straps and drawstrings at the neckline. I think it turned out rather well, except for the hem. I hate sewing with knit, it never does what I want it to. I plan to wear it with a pair of black underwear. Simple.

My Think Pink skirt is DONE! I put the zipper in by hand the other day, and added the facings and hemmed it today. I plan to wear it to work tomorrow with a brown blouse and brown boots.

I have several other projects with me, right now I'm trying to decide if I want to work on one of them or just pick up my embroidery for the rest of the evening. I have also worked on it over the last few days, block seven of twelve is almost done. At least I think its block number seven...it might only be six...

EDIT Ended up working on my blue and white cotton skirt (now named the City Bluescape skirt). I evened all the edges of both fabrics (blue and white pattern and white muslin) by tearing them. In the process, I started a tear through the middle of the blue and white pattern fabric so I decided it would be a four panel skirt instead of the two I had originally planned on and just tore the fabric in two, then in two again. Then I did the same to the white muslin. Next came pinning the white muslin to the bottom of the blue and white print. The white ended up a little longer than the print, so I marked the middle of both, lined them up and pinned, then pinned each end, next I pinned end from each end til I reached the center and then I made a pleat on each side of the center pin. I repeated this on all four panels, then stitched the white to the print. Next came stitching the panels together. So now I have a four paneled skirt that just needs hemmed and elastic-ed.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

I started my pink suedecloth skirt tonight. It has been cut out and a few things stitched. I had to be creative with the cutting. I unfolded the fabric and then folded up just enough to cut out the front and back along the fold (it has a side zipper). Then I had to cut out the ruffle one piece at a time instead of both at the same time to make it fit. I managed to get one facing cut out fine, but the second facing had to be cut in two pieces instead of along the fold and then seamed together.

I pinned and sewed the darts in the front and back pieces. I stitched together the facing that had to be cut into two pieces. I also stitched the side seams of the flounce and stay stitched the top of it.

Hmmm I need to name this skirt...Pretty in Pink? Maybe not, too cliche. Oooh I know - its my Think Pink skirt! Cute, catchy and references one of my favorite movies of all time -- Funny Face with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire.

So my skirt is started. Next up will be the side seams, the zipper, attaching the flounce and facings and then hemming it. I very well might finish it on my next day off.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Well, there was no sewing this weekend, but I did do some shopping so that I will be able to sew. On my way to my parents house, I stopped by the fabric store and purchased a few things. I know have -

1. Thread and a zipper for my pink suedecloth skirt

2. White muslin to use to lengthen my blue and white cotton so I can make a respectable length skirt. It was a remnant, and so cost me almost nothing.

I also picked up some black thread (it was on sale) and a remnant of buckram (it'll get used at some point).

So now I can work on either my pink skirt or my blue and white one. Of course, I do need to finish my beau's Joker costume (mainly so I can move on to my CW uniform with a clear conscience) and I've also got commissions starting. I had a meeting with a friend last week regarding the corset I am making him for a drag show and I need to email a couple other people about their alterations.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

I'd actually kind of thought that I'd spend MORE of the day sewing than I did, but...oh well.

My knit tunic is DONE. I used a Simplicity pattern and lengthened it a few inches so that it'd be long enough to cover my bum. I think it turned out well, and Miss Dashwood agrees.

I attempted to start my corduroy skirt but the pattern / fabric would not cooperate. I'm beginning to think its the fabric since I had the same problem with another pattern.

Then I thought I would work on my pink skirt, but realized I probably don't have a zipper so why bother starting it when I can't finish it? And since its going to be a work skirt, I should probably go shopping and pick up thread and a zipper that actually match instead of my usual "oh this is close enough" approach.

I looked at my pretty blue and white cotton print, but since its a pattern that goes selvage to selvage, I need to cut it in half lengthwise to give me enough fabric for the gathered waist skirt, but then its going to be above the knee aka not long enough for work this summer. So I'll need to look through my stash / buy some white or blue solid cotton to make a band at the hem so its long enough.

After three sewing fails, I decided to move on to scrapbooking. Finished a page I'd been working on, added a title to the front page since I recently bought letter stickers for that very purpose, and did another page start to finish.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde(who is praying that the Companion's Shuttle doesn't lose power because of the ice storm)