Hey guys, just got a pre-loved passive JTR Cap 2400 and previous owner said it was wired at 8 ohms and i'm looking for an amplifier. From what I've gathered so far, the iNuke nu3000 and ep4000 is enough for the 2400 but would like to ask if maybe there are other newer options out there.

By the way , I will be running the Cap together with my old sub which is a SVS PC13-ultra

I'm planning to upgrade my avr to a newer model later this year, would some of the new AVR's have the sub dsp feature or do you suggest I buy an external one and hook it up with either the crown xls or ep4000

Thanks !

I can't speak for using the AVR's built in Dsp but it costs less than $100 to buy a Behringer MIC2200 which has two channels/ three bands of parametric EQ, also takes care of the High pass filter and is what I use when boosting the signal and works a hell of a lot better than my Rotel preamp for this purpose, Someone else may chime in on the merits of your AVR but I believe the MIC2200 does a great job. Do you have an omnimic to measure frequency response? Have you got the ability to measure frequency response? I just moved house and had little option with sub placement. To give an example, prior to applying EQ to the Caps the bass was lacking refinement it was very boomy in the room I have. After tailoring the frequency response using a Dayton V2 omnimic with my laptop and adjusting the PEQ settings to achieve the flattest line possible I now have tonnes of clean, plant flapping output. Prior to EQ I had a peak of around +15-25dB between the 45-70Hz frequency range and a null around the 70-100Hz range which is now within +5dB all the way between 15-100Hz after EQ applied. In real terms the difference is night and day and as great as the Cap is (like all subs) without tailoring the EQ properly it's performance won't be optimal.

Have you got dual Caps? I thought you had a single plus an SVS? I'm not sure how the SVS will go paired with the Cap as I fear the SVS will be left behind in performance capability and may struggle to make both work in harmony? I'm not even sure the best way to go about EQ (maybe someone else has a better suggestion than the one I'm about to give)? Normally you would EQ both subs at the same time but with two different subs of differing performance capabilities well it's not something I've done before. Not saying it can't be done but........... Maybe best to EQ the Cap, have a listen see what you think (write down what the settings are) then try and EQ with the SVS at the same time. If you don't think it works then you've got your EQ done for the single Cap already and a benchmark as to what the bass sounds like with the just the Cap prior to inclusion of the SVS. What are you using to measure frequency response?

Yes just 1 Cap. In light of the SVS getting left behind by the Cap, I might just move the SVS to another room and buy another Cap if i feel that the bass is lacking.

My dedicated room is just around 320 square feet , do you think 1 cap is enough or should i just go with 2 from the get go

My buddy will be helping me with the frequency response so i'm not too what he's using.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ72

Have you got dual Caps? I thought you had a single plus an SVS? I'm not sure how the SVS will go paired with the Cap as I fear the SVS will be left behind in performance capability and may struggle to make both work in harmony? I'm not even sure the best way to go about EQ (maybe someone else has a better suggestion than the one I'm about to give)? Normally you would EQ both subs at the same time but with two different subs of differing performance capabilities well it's not something I've done before. Not saying it can't be done but........... Maybe best to EQ the Cap, have a listen see what you think (write down what the settings are) then try and EQ with the SVS at the same time. If you don't think it works then you've got your EQ done for the single Cap already and a benchmark as to what the bass sounds like with the just the Cap prior to inclusion of the SVS. What are you using to measure frequency response?

I can't speak for using the AVR's built in Dsp but it costs less than $100 to buy a Behringer MIC2200 which has two channels/ three bands of parametric EQ, also takes care of the High pass filter and is what I use when boosting the signal and works a hell of a lot better than my Rotel preamp for this purpose, Someone else may chime in on the merits of your AVR but I believe the MIC2200 does a great job. Do you have an omnimic to measure frequency response? Have you got the ability to measure frequency response? I just moved house and had little option with sub placement. To give an example, prior to applying EQ to the Caps the bass was lacking refinement it was very boomy in the room I have. After tailoring the frequency response using a Dayton V2 omnimic with my laptop and adjusting the PEQ settings to achieve the flattest line possible I now have tonnes of clean, plant flapping output. Prior to EQ I had a peak of around +15-25dB between the 45-70Hz frequency range and a null around the 70-100Hz range which is now within +5dB all the way between 15-100Hz after EQ applied. In real terms the difference is night and day and as great as the Cap is (like all subs) without tailoring the EQ properly it's performance won't be optimal.

If your AVR has two subwoofer outputs, try putting the SVS firing directly into the back of your chair off subwoofer 2 output. It won't have to work even half as hard to put out the same output as it would at the front of the room, and nearfield subs are pretty slick for getting that nice tactile bass feel. Then put your captivator on subwoofer 1 output where it measures best in the room, before EQ, based on REW or omnimic sweeps. When you get them situated run your AVR's auto EQ, and it'll help set distances, SPL levels, and make an attempt at doing EQ for you. This should work pretty well with your two mismatched subs, since the SVS won't have to be working nearly as hard.

Hey guys. On these Caps, do they need to be on the front wall firing at you?
More so if you had 2, could one be in the front a couple feet from the left corner, and a 2nd on the right wall but a couple feet from the front wall? (I dont have room for a sub on the right side of the front wall without moving my equiptment rack futher from the TV and getting a 30 foot HDMI)
This is where I found I had the best sound with my previous sealed subs. I have been eye-balling these caps, and was curious if the port needs to be point at the Listening position.

Hey guys. On these Caps, do they need to be on the front wall firing at you?
More so if you had 2, could one be in the front a couple feet from the left corner, and a 2nd on the right wall but a couple feet from the front wall? (I dont have room for a sub on the right side of the front wall without moving my equiptment rack futher from the TV and getting a 30 foot HDMI)
This is where I found I had the best sound with my previous sealed subs. I have been eye-balling these caps, and was curious if the port needs to be point at the Listening position.

No they dont need to be firing front at you but you would miss some of the beauty of the air swirling around the room if you didn't. It's a nice effect. I would think that if you had success before with placement in a certain spot and could do it again then it's a good start. I tried facing the wall away from listening position due to placement constraints but have now got it firing forward again. I just prefer that air swirl and found that it was missing when not firing forward. I also just didn't like the feng shui of one forward one left. Not saying it affected performance though.

No they dont need to be firing front at you but you would miss some of the beauty of the air swirling around the room if you didn't. It's a nice effect. I would think that if you had success before with placement in a certain spot and could do it again then it's a good start. I tried facing the wall away from listening position due to placement constraints but have now got it firing forward again. I just prefer that air swirl and found that it was missing when not firing forward. I also just didn't like the feng shui of one forward one left. Not saying it affected performance though.

How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol

How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol

Or you can turn the caps upside down so the ports are on top. This way you can have a fan blowing you in the face.

How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol

Your slightly elevated sofa will be no problem at all. The air swirls around the whole room kind of like a zephyr or slight breeze. I sit about 12 feet from my subs and had the Washington Monument Scene from Olympus Has Fallen on tonight. I noticed the rug in front of one of the Caps lifting off the ground. Cool! Then follows a gentle swirling of air kind of making you feel the moment of destruction that has just occurred on screen as the monument crashes to the ground. Relax and sit as comfortably as you like knowing that your seating won't be an issue.

Put a scene like the Washington Monument scene from Olympus Has Fallen on. Turn it up. You should notice some serious serious driver excursion during this scene accompanied by a gentle swirling of the air. The scene itself should at least be impressive as it's centred around the 18-22Hz range, right in the Caps sweet spot and just above Port tune, if not then you may want to recheck your EQ settings. What are you using for sub EQ?

If your AVR has two subwoofer outputs, try putting the SVS firing directly into the back of your chair off subwoofer 2 output. It won't have to work even half as hard to put out the same output as it would at the front of the room, and nearfield subs are pretty slick for getting that nice tactile bass feel. Then put your captivator on subwoofer 1 output where it measures best in the room, before EQ, based on REW or omnimic sweeps. When you get them situated run your AVR's auto EQ, and it'll help set distances, SPL levels, and make an attempt at doing EQ for you. This should work pretty well with your two mismatched subs, since the SVS won't have to be working nearly as hard.

Not sure if I'm reading something into this but is there is difference between sub out 1 vs sub out 2? I've always assumed they were the same meaning getting the same signal. I have 2 sub outs and have both sub's up front...is this incorrect and should I have sub out 2 in the back of the room?

Not sure if I'm reading something into this but is there is difference between sub out 1 vs sub out 2? I've always assumed they were the same meaning getting the same signal. I have 2 sub outs and have both sub's up front...is this incorrect and should I have sub out 2 in the back of the room?