The River Journal: From Asparagus to Zucchini
From Asparagus to Zucchini
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Dennis Nicholls on 03/27/2002 15:27:00
Growing community supported agriculture
MARCH 27, 2002
On the second day of spring, March 21, despite the 40 inches of snow blanketing
the landscape near the mouth of Bull River, several farmers met and talked about
growing crops. Perhaps it was Old Man Winter’s last gasp, but the early spring
snowstorm last week seemed to make the notion of planting a garden a bit
premature. But it isn’t, really, and especially not for these particular
farmers.
At the home of Rodd Gallaway and Jill Davies gathered these experienced
gardeners/farmers who created the fledgling organization known as Cabinet
Mountain Market. It is among the newest in a nationwide explosion of CSA
(Community Supported Agriculture) cooperatives. Inspired by Diane Green of
Greentree Naturals in Bonner County, and with their maiden year behind them,
plans are taking shape for expanding their services this year to more customers.
The farmers in this small group include Steve “Red” Jewett, Pat and Joan
Kelly, Greg and Margaret Gilman and Rodd and Jill, all in the Noxon area. The
purpose behind this endeavor, as stated on their brochure, is, “Delivering
locally grown food pure and simple.” And their emphasis is on organically
grown food – vegetables, fruit and meat free of harmful pesticides and other
chemicals so prevalent in the large-scale corporate farming dominating the food
industry today.
Each of these farmers have been growing gardens and producing much of their own
food for many years. They decided to share their bounty during an organic
gardens tour of western Sanders County in the summer of 2000 and agreed to begin
a CSA co-op. The following spring they had their first 12 customers.
The theory behind Community Supported Agriculture is in making “a connection
between a nearby farmer and the people who eat the food the farmer produces.”
So says Elizabeth Henderson in Sharing the Harvest: A Guide to Community
Supported Agriculture. Her book, co-authored with the late Robyn Van En, is
widely regarded as one of the top discourses on CSAs in America. In the
Foreword, Joan Dye Gussow makes the point, “Across the country, a movement is
spreading that acknowledges a long-ignored reality: most of what we pay for our
food goes to companies who transport, process and market what comes off the
farm, not the farmers themselves.”
And what comes off the farm these days is almost certainly treated with chemical
fertilizers and pesticides; and how many people in the United States knows where
the food they consume is cultivated? “Most people do not know where or how
their food is grown,” states Henderson. “Food comes from stores and
restaurants and vending machines.”
The healthier alternative, believe the farmers of Cabinet Mountain Market, is a
return to “building sustainable community systems, and food is a good place to
start,” as Jill expressed it.
The mission of Cabinet Mountain Market is fivefold:
To promote, support and help sustain local food production on family farms.
To utilize and encourage organic and Biodynamic farming methods.
To foster an appreciation of sound environmental practices: land stewardship,
recycling and composting.
To educate and enlighten people to the dangers of current mass production trends
which deplete diversity and poison the food chain.
To charge a fair market value based on needs and actual production costs versus
“what the market will bear.”
Though production is still several months off, the growing season is already
here for the farmers of Cabinet Mountain Market. In a letter to last year’s
subscribers Margaret wrote, “Seeds have been purchased, many starts are
already sprouting and we’re eager to dig in the dirt! Joan and Red have a
‘First Tomato’ contest going in the greenhouse with plants over three feet
high.”
A large variety of produce is grown by each of the farms represented in the
co-op. In Jill’s Garden Jill Davies raises fruits and vegetables in raised
beds and does all her cultivating by hand. She also offers more than 20
varieties of herbs. At Fussy Farms the Gilman’s are organically restoring an
orchard and vegetable garden and are producing heirloom vegetables, apples,
plums, blueberries and raspberries. Pat and Joan Kelly’s specialty at Daybreak
Farm and Greenhouse is natural, grass-fed, lean beef and lamb. Their livestock
have no hormones or antibiotics. Also, they offer bedding plants and perennials
as well as a selection of vegetables. “Red” Jewett has spent more than 20
years on Rockhouse Farm and follows strict organic practices for his produce,
poultry and eggs.
Food baskets made up of vegetables will be available to Cabinet Mountain Market
subscribers beginning in mid June. The agreement between the farmers and their
customers is a full or half share food basket each week for 18 weeks at a cost
of $17.00 (full) or $10.00 (half) per week. A full share will typically feed two
people and the half share is designed for one person or light eaters. For the
entire season, the cost is $306 and $180 respectively. Eggs and portions of
meat, as well as flowers and homemade breads, can be added to a customer’s
subscription at additional cost.
Delivery of baskets can be arranged, but customers are welcome to pick up their
baskets at Daybreak Farm on Pilgrim Creek, or other arrangements can be made.
The catch to participating in a healthier way to eat and the building of
sustainable community systems with the farmers of Cabinet Mountain Market is the
principle of “first come, first served.” Because they are few in number,
these four farms aren’t yet able to feed the masses, so they have to limit the
number of customers they can serve. Jill noted that 11 of their 12 subscribers
from last year intend to return, so they will only be taking on perhaps another
five or six subscribers.
The benefits to the customer in participating in a CSA are great. By subscribing
to Cabinet Mountain Market, the consumer will be supporting local farmers,
helping preserve productive open space, adding to local economic development and
reaping the rewards of pure healthy food. And these four farmers go even further
than that: “We want you to feel that the farms of Cabinet Mountain Market are
your farms and invite subscriber participation on many levels. Just a few of the
many excellent benefits to expect throughout the harvest include the annual
harvest party, selected farm tours, a monthly newsletter and recipes and food
preparation tips.”
Cabinet Mountain Market presently serves the communities of Trout Creek, Noxon
and Heron. To find out more about each of their operations, contact the farmers
themselves (find phone numbers in the sidebar at right). Conscientious growers
are also welcome to call to find out what future potential there is in joining
this co-op.
Meanwhile, despite the deep snow, these farmers are doing more than just talking
about the upcoming growing season. Not only are they enjoying the fruits of
their labors stored up in pantries and larders for the winter - Jill exclaimed
that she continues to harvest kale from her garden by digging through three feet
of snow to the still-green leaves below.
You can be a part of connecting families with farmers, building a stronger sense
of community, encouraging stewardship of the land and eliminating the immense
distances food travels in this day and age through Community Supported
Agriculture. Garrison Keillor said on National Public Radio on March 28, 1998,
“America of the future will be all malls connected by interstates. All because
your parents no longer can their own tomatoes.”
The farmers of Cabinet Mountain market are doing their share to see that
doesn’t happen. As their customer, you can too.
The A to Z of produce at Cabinet Mountain Market - The following is a list of
crops grown by this local CSA co-op: Asparagus, Basil, Beans, Beets,
Blueberries, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumbers,
Dill, Fennel, Garlic, Green onions/Chives, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce,
Onions, Parsnips, Parsley, Peas and pea pods, Peppers: hot, sweet, Potatoes,
Radishes,Raspberries, Rhubarb, Rutabagas/Turnips, Sage/Oregano/,Thyme,
Spinach,Summer squash, Strawberries, Swiss, Chard, Tomatoes, Winter squash,
Zucchini, Other Products: Farm Fresh Flowers, Eggs, Chicken, Beef, Lamb,Fresh
Bread.