My brother and I rebuilt the clutch on my jeep. Everything seemed to go back together ok but, we don't have much to go on since this was the first time doing anything like this. We got it all buttoned up except the linkage. When we went to instal the adjustment rod it was about two inches to long. Not knowing any better and figuring that I could buy another one if needed we cut the old one down to fit. After that we put it in place and adjusted the rod and we attempted to use the clutch. It felt very stiff and proceeded to bend the adjustment rod (I think it's the original, very old just like the rest of it). Could it simply be that it is a new clutch and it will be firmer than the old one and just need new linkage? We won't know more till we get the new adjustment arm back on. Any suggestions?

Assuming you used the correct clutch kit, the linkages should have been fine without modification, and the pedal should be normal.

You fubar'ed something.

Matt

Nice. I guess a couple more days in my brothers shop are in order. I ordered the kit from advance. Not saying they couldn't have sent me the wrong kit but the parts looked the same as the old ones when I compared them. The tranny and xnsfer case went in ok. It was a little bit of a struggle but we were able to put it in all the way without using the bolts to pull it in. The pressure plate is a three prong plate not a diaphragm type so is it possible that the TO bearing is not seated on the prongs properly?

Nice. I guess a couple more days in my brothers shop are in order. I ordered the kit from advance. Not saying they couldn't have sent me the wrong kit but the parts looked the same as the old ones when I compared them. The tranny and xnsfer case went in ok. It was a little bit of a struggle but we were able to put it in all the way without using the bolts to pull it in. The pressure plate is a three prong plate not a diaphragm type so is it possible that the TO bearing is not seated on the prongs properly?

TO bearing is in the right way we did have trouble trying to get the TO bearing lined up to put the tranny back in. It also kept sliding off the prongs but we figured that if the TO bearing slid on the tranny shaft then everything would line up the way it should.

First, a 3 fingered clutch will have alot more pedal pressure than a diaphram.
Second, are you sure you installed the springs on the disc toward the trans, I've done it backwards and the clutch won't disengage.
Third it has to be the TO bearing/fork to effect the rod like that.

Did you have the Bellcrank off and possible put it back on the wrong way? Its the device mounted between the engine block and firewall and the grease fitting on it should face downward.

Is the Release Rod Assembly correct?

The bellcrank tube wasn't taken completely off. We just removed the adjustment arm. When we went to put the arm back on it was about two inches to long so we cut it to fit in. Should u have to depress the clutch fork to install the adjustment arm? If so, how? We can not push the clutch fork in by hand.

There should be 2 bolts holding the end of the bellcrank to the bell-housing. If you loosen those, the adjustment arm should install easily.

I'm guessing the TO bearing came loose from the fork while stabbing the trans, and the fork is jammed behind the TO.

Matt

I will repost next weekend when we get to pull everything off again and see what the problem is. Thanks to everyone for the input. Also, we put the flywheel on then the disk and pressure plate then the clutch fork and TO bearing in the bellhop using and put it on. Then we attempted to put the tranny shaft thru the TO bearing and into the clutch and motor. I saw somewhere where the guy left the bellhousing attached to the tranny and he was able to put the TO bearing and clutch fork on the shaft of the tranny before he attempted to put it thru the clutch and bolt the bellhousing to the motor. Any suggestions on order of install?

The problem I see with attaching the bell-housing to the trans first, then stabbing the assembly, is it will make the bell-housing bolts virtually impossible to reach. Especially the top bolts.

Due to my inexperience, I had to drop and re-install my trans 3 times in less than a month. The first time, was after an engine swap. The second time was after I realized I forgot to install the pivot ball. The third time was after I realized the alignment pins weren't replaced in the block after re-building the engine.

Each time, I stabbed the trans with the bell-housing already attached to the block.

Good luck, and let us know what the problem was.

Matt

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The problem I see with attaching the bell-housing to the trans first, then stabbing the assembly, is it will make the bell-housing bolts virtually impossible to reach. Especially the top bolts.

Due to my inexperience, I had to drop and re-install my trans 3 times in less than a month. The first time, was after an engine swap. The second time was after I realized I forgot to install the pivot ball. The third time was after I realized the alignment pins weren't replaced in the block after re-building the engine.

Each time, I stabbed the trans with the bell-housing already attached.

Good luck, and let us know what the problem was.

Matt

I will thanks for the help! hopefully we will only do it twice. We did learn some tricks to help things go a little smoother so, we will see.

The problem I see with attaching the bell-housing to the trans first, then stabbing the assembly, is it will make the bell-housing bolts virtually impossible to reach. Especially the top bolts.

Due to my inexperience, I had to drop and re-install my trans 3 times in less than a month. The first time, was after an engine swap. The second time was after I realized I forgot to install the pivot ball. The third time was after I realized the alignment pins weren't replaced in the block after re-building the engine.

Each time, I stabbed the trans with the bell-housing already attached.