My 11' large One is 34.97lbs. Sporting a 670g Rase dropper post and coil both ends. Ti spring on the Elka and the coil lyrik has an Avalanche open bath cart. The only carbon on the bike is the XO cranks.

I reckon I could still knock off an extra 2lbs while still keeping the post and coil's.

I had my 2012 built up at 30.5 lbs with pretty stout parts. Saved a bunch of weight on wheels with the 1750 gram Crossmax SX's. My bro now owns this bike with a Boxxer and DH tires at 34lbs.

That's the kind of number I was hoping for. Considering setting up a One for enduro (at least until your new 650-160mm travel bike comes out next year )
Was thinking along the lines of a Lyrik, your 1x10 setup with WTB i23s, Formula Ones, and some lightish cranks.
Might be able to break that 30lb barrier.

Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

I could theoretically replace my existing parts with lighter ones and save a pound on the wheelset, half a lb on the fork, 1/3 lb on the shock, half a lb on the cranks/derailleur, almost half a lb on the cassette, and ditch the dropper post for another 1lb. That would land me somewhere in the 30.8ish range. Then some more carbon bits like bars, saddle, stem, etc will get you that last 0.8lb. All that is going to be pretty darn expensive, but SUPER sweet. You'd have an absolute destroyer of a bike.

tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again? rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

Mine is ~38lbs. I have mostly normal bits like WC Boxxer air, CCDB coil, thompson seatpost, X9 cranks, X9 RD. Have ENVE carbon wheels, but I think the Minion DH tires and Maxxis DH tubes did it in. The front wheel is 6lbs with tire, tubes, and IceTech rotors. I am looking to maybe put FR tires and set it up tubeless as my DH park is pretty tame compared to most.

A Bos deville fork in the front, the new Float X in the back, Crossmax sx, Sixc crankset, a LEV post, carbon bars, R1 brakes, and we could definitely get below the 30 pound mark. And it would still be a capable bike!

For the sake of a few grams going with a shock sans piggyback (I realize the Float X is piggy backed), imo, would hamstring the One's true performance capabilities.

On a side note and just to ramble, I'm really struggling to understand why, other than marketing reasons, all of these new bikes (like Scott LT for example,170mm with a Float CTD. What a joke!) are spec'ing their bike's with such retarded shocks!

For the sake of a few grams going with a shock sans piggyback (I realize the Float X is piggy backed), imo, would hamstring the One's true performance capabilities.

On a side note and just to ramble, I'm really struggling to understand why, other than marketing reasons, all of these new bikes (like Scott LT for example,170mm with a Float CTD. What a joke!) are spec'ing their bike's with such retarded shocks!

I disagree. It could definitely be capable. Lets ditch the Float X then, and put on a BOS Kirk then:

Definitely interested in this thread. We have to do a lot of climbing here in the Northwest and it would be great to build a bike around 30 pounds. Looking for a big upgrade to my 2010 Enduro Pro and don't feel like spending $6k+ on a new one. I am convinced The One will pedal better, but still want to keep it as light weight as possible. Thinking about an XX1 kit and some light weight (love my Stan's ZTR Flow EX's) or carbon wheels to hopefully get to that weight. Will add XT brakes and some carbon bars. Still undecided on which fork to use for this build. Have always liked the Lyrik, but it sounds like Killington's fork works great as well. Then add some DH wheels and tires and maybe a big fork for shuttle/lift days. Seems like a perfect set up.

Definitely interested in this thread. We have to do a lot of climbing here in the Northwest and it would be great to build a bike around 30 pounds. Looking for a big upgrade to my 2010 Enduro Pro and don't feel like spending $6k+ on a new one. I am convinced The One will pedal better, but still want to keep it as light weight as possible. Thinking about an XX1 kit and some light weight (love my Stan's ZTR Flow EX's) or carbon wheels to hopefully get to that weight. Will add XT brakes and some carbon bars. Still undecided on which fork to use for this build. Have always liked the Lyrik, but it sounds like Killington's fork works great as well. Then add a Jedi for shuttle/lift days. Seems like a perfect set up.

fixed it for ya

Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

Haha, yes....in a perfect world for sure. Don't get enough of those days to justify, but hopefully soon I can have both. Throw in a super light weight 22 pound climbing machine for all day epics into that list as well.

Haha, yes....in a perfect world for sure. Don't get enough of those days to justify, but hopefully soon I can have both. Throw in a super light weight 22 pound climbing machine for all day epics into that list as well.

I'll take it to bike store and hang it on scale there. Weight range should be 34.2 to 34.5 lbs depending on how much mud I got caked on there.

Like I said, I'm not to the point of straight out calling BS; it's just that, as much serious coin boutique stuff as it takes to get a One down to 30 lbs (we're starting with an 8+lb frame), it's hard to believe a burly DH build is only 4lbs heavier.

Ahm jus sayin...

Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

My ONE now weights 34.3 lbs, and could be considered a downhill bike. Has coil rear, 8 inch travel front, saint cranks, and semi DH tires (minion DHR2s EXO).....

This is really surprising to me too. Also not trying to say you're wrong, so please don't take it as a jab. Mine is just a bit over 34 lbs with a Float 180 (~1lb lighter than the 40), DBair (almost 1lb lighter than the coil), X9 drivetrain, XT brakes, Hope/DT wheels, and tubeless 2.5 Exo tires. I just wonder what other components you have on there? Maybe I need to weigh mine again.

tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again? rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

Nice MM. I'm hoping to be right around that mark too. I have a dropper (LEV) so that'll add some extra weight but I'm hoping the carbon bits, llight wheelset plus full XX1 will pull me through. So, since you're built up now: how you liking it?

I purchased it built aside from the pedals and tires, so I can't take credit for the build. There is actually some weight to be lost in the crank set, it is currently a Shimano Deore SLX 2x9 crank set (one chain ring) and the aluminum seat post and a few other bits. If the cranks were XOs I think it would weigh in under 30lbs.
I am not a bicycle expert but I can give you my very amateur opinion. The bike came with Canfield'd micro-drive 9-26 with a 33 tooth chain ring which is little much for climbing the really steep stuff around San Diego but I did surprisingly well with the climbs, only walking it twice for about 10-15 yards while my buddy was in his granny gear on a Giant Trance 29er. I think that either a 30 to 32 tooth chain ring or a 32 tooth cog in the rear would work. I rode all over PQ today and also went over to Ted Williams Parkway for a little bit. The bike climbs great, wheelies easy, bunny hops pretty easy, descends great and jumps nicely. I had some pedal strikes today (170mm cranks) that I think were just bad technique by an amateur rider.
I was a little nervous after my purchase that the One would not live up to the hype but after riding it around for a few hours today, I am extremely happy.

Madmachinist- Good looking bike, I rode that for two years, couldn't bring myself to sell it even to get a newer one. Glad your loving it. I felt like it was just dialed. I had a different crank set on it. I'd recommend getting some short removable spider cranks and a 30 tooth ring. Also you could upgrade to the 10 speed micro drive conversion. Then you get a 36 tooth easy gear to go with the 30 ring. I had a dropper on there and it was 32 lbs with pedals.

Nice build! I've also been thinking about lightening up my park-build-One a bit, and one option would be to go for the micro drive.

Regarding flymybike's recommendation for a short re,movable spider crankset: Is it correct that the only really short (165mm would be good for the One IMO) crakset with a removable spider is the XO DH?

I have a One with the micro drive 30x9-26 and a One with 34x10-42 and the micro drive crushes the XX1 11 speed set up and I have no idea why (the bikes are different builds and the 11 speed build is 5lbs heavier then the 9 speed build). I fly on the 9-26 micro drive and climb steep grades fast keeping up with my friends on Trance 29ers but if I take the 11 speed I cannot keep up at all. I am going to take Flymybikes advice and do the 10 speed 9-36 (ordered today) with a 32 or 34 chain ring on XX1 cranks. I climb no problem on the 9-26 but I want the higher speed that I get with a 32t/34t chain ring so I need the larger 36t cog to climb with a larger chain ring.

"I really noticed this when I would change gears from the 36 outer ring to the 24 inner. Different gearing, same ratios, but the smaller ring always has a burst of acceleration as soon as you hit it. I found myself staying in the lower front ring as long as I could most of the time for this benefit. "

I'm wondering if that's the difference you're experiencing? If so, you would take that advantage away from the lighter build by going for a bigger front ring...

That is a very well written review. Before I had the 30t chain ring I had a 33t and it pedaled well with that but climbing anything steep was very difficult for me. The 34x10-42 has a completely different feel, it feels like it takes much more effort to turn the cranks going uphill even though I am able to get into a much lower gear. Both of my friends that I ride with on a regular basis tried both bikes and were scratching their heads wondering why the 9-26 pedaled so much easier. We even checked the 34x10-42 bike to see if it was binding or dragging but we couldn't find anything. Both bikes have the same length cranks. I will find out if the 32 or 34x9-36 has the same feel and report back with my opinion.

Yep, this is probably what you are experiencing is the difference in pedaling between the 34 and 30 up front. The smaller rings work better with this suspension design, personally I would not go any bigger than a 30 up front.

My next addition will be a Wolftooth Components 42t "add-a-ring". They're not for sale yet, but will be available in red pretty soon. Then I will have a 9-42 and probably move up to a 30t in front.