[The Day We Go to Temple] 04. Buddhist Customs on Buddha’s Birthday ()

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Buddhist Customs on Buddha’s Birthday

Yeon Deung
Hoe or the Lantern
Festival

Buddha’s birthday celebrates the
coming of the Sakyamuni Buddha into this world by lighting lanterns not just in
the temples, but every household in the village. Specifically, ‘the lighting of
lanterns’ has been a widely practiced ritual among different Buddhist cultures.
As the Sakyamuni Buddha entered nirvana, he advised, “Regard yourself as light
and let wisdom be your light. [自燈明法燈明],” Thus,
the lighting of darkness symbolizes wisdom unlocking ignorance. Accordingly,
lanterns have become the key offerings of the Buddha and bodhisattvas.
Furthermore, when the simple offering of lanterns of common devotees grew to
the massive scale of the lantern festival, the result has been more joyous
feelings and a more wonderful occasion. Lighting of lanterns was not only a
ritual of strengthening one’s vow to practice according the Buddha’s teaching,
but also the key activity of the festival.

According to Samguk Sagi, the History of the Three Kingdoms, of Korea, it is
said that the 48th King Gyeongmun of the Silla Kingdom (841-875)
visited Hwangnyongsa Temple, looked around, and threw a party for all the
government officials. This is an indication that the lantern festival had already
been widely practiced in temples before it was celebrated on a national level during
the Goryeo Dynasty (916-1392). The lantern custom is believed to have been
transmitted to temples and commoners when Buddhism came in during the Three
Kingdoms era, and the tradition continued on a government level on the fifteenth
of the first and second months on different occasions.

The historical record of the lantern
festival on Buddha’s birthday appears in the mid Goryeo Dynasty in 1166. It is
written that the lighting of these offerings took place in the palace and at
the homes of government officials on that day. By the time of the 33rd
King, Gongmin of the Goryeo Dynasty, it is written, “On Buddha’s birthday, a
national holiday on the 8th day of the fourth month, every house is
lit with lanterns.” Therefore, it can be inferred that the lantern festival had
been already listed as a state ritual during the Goryeo Dynasty to be officially
celebrated in the first and second months of the year. Later, it emerged as a
part of Buddha’s birthday, as commoners and temples naturally practiced it on
that day later on. As a result, in the late Goryeo Dynasty, it was perceived by
commoners to be a part of the Buddha’s birthday celebration. Moreover, this
trend spread more widely during the Joseon Dynasty. During that time, various
activities related to lanterns and customs have developed over the years.

The Dongguk Sesigi, a Record of the Seasonal
Customs of the Eastern Kingdom, and Yeoryang
Sesigi, Seasonal Festival Customs in the Capital, includes sections on the
customs related to the lanterns during the late Joseon Dynasty. In one
tradition, a few days before the Buddha’s birthday, a Deunggan, or long pole made of a bamboo, was stuck into the ground
to hang lanterns on, and silk flags, peacock’s feathers, or pine tree branches
were used to decorate it. Not only commoners, but also those working in
government offices or stores, regarded the practice of placing Deunggan highly. The higher the Deunggan was, the prouder they felt.
Usually, there were between three or four at each house, or sometimes as many
as ten. In general, commoners set up as many poles as they had children. On the
streets, merchants competed amongst themselves to have the tallest Deunggan, and a multitude of people came
out to see the mesmerizing designs of the lanterns.

One particularly amazing aspect of
this ritual was the huge variety in lantern shapes and designs: lotus flowers,
watermelons, garlic, wild grapes, oriental melons, eggs, dragons, phoenixes,
cranes, birds, carp, turtles, terrapins, lions, tigers, and deer. Likewise,
some of these designs featured flowers, fruits, fish, or animals, whereas others
showed lucky omens or various designs like the Big Dipper. Simple indoor ones
showed symbols of the sun, the moon, longevity, peace, eternity, Mt. Namsan,
balls, ships, buildings, handrails, flower pots, sedan chairs, bottles, pottery,
bells, and more. Some even showed a general mounted on a horse, a scene from Romance of the Three Kingdoms, a Chinese
classic historical novel by Luo Guanzhong, drawn from a beautiful angle,
looking down from heaven. Many children were fascinated by these lanterns, and
bought them to play with.

Additionally, Youngdeung lanterns that created interesting shadows were very
popular. Inside these lanterns was a turning lathe, filled with various animal-shaped
carved papers, or a hunting scene, so as the wind blew, it went around and
around, creating fascinating moving shadow scenes.

For
those who could afford to have extravagant decorations, they installed Deunggan consisting of tens of tall
bamboo poles as well as a mast, and beautified them with various ornaments that
could be pushed by the wind. At that time, when rotating lights were placed
there, it is said that they shot out continuously like bullets. Additionally, there
is an indication that gunpowder was sometimes wrapped in paper and hung between
Deunggans. When it was lit with fire,
it created an amazing scene of fireworks raining down, which the people enjoyed
very much. Moreover, tens of pages of paper could be connected to make a dragon.
When it blew in the wind, it wiggled like the creature, or sometimes clothed
puppets or baskets were hung on it for amusement.

For the two
days of small and large gatherings for Yeondeunghoe,
lanterns were lit up, not only at the palaces, but also the capital all night
long. The whole area was packed with many spectators, as the curfew was
suspended for the night. During a time of inadequate lighting and a strictly
enforced curfew, Buddha’s birthday was an extraordinary time of festivity, a
night as bright as a day and filled with freedom. There is another record,
stating that commoners were able to walk around the streets, playing musical
instruments in all places all night long, so the entire city buzzed with excitement.

Ever since those days, the custom of
floating lanterns on a river or in a sea has continued as one of the most important
celebrations on Buddha’s birthday. Likewise, lanterns were lit not just on land,
but also water, creating a splendid water-borne spectacle. The city was crowded
with a sea of people and became a city of lanterns. Trails of spectators led the
way to nearby hills to enjoy the whole panoramic view of the various designs of
lights and crowds. It is easy to imagine why the lighting and appreciation of
lanterns during Yeongdeung activities
had become an exciting festival for the people to entertain themselves.

Ja Choi (崔滋1188-1260),
a scholar from the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), commented on the sight of
lanterns in his book Bohanjip,Supplementary Jottings in Idleness, that
‘An array of lanterns lined up in the sky made the night like broad daylight’.
Other scholars of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) praised the ten beauties of
the capital in the poem – “Hando Sipyoung
(漢都十詠).” Geojeong Seo (徐居正,
1420 -1488), one of the writers, wrote Jongja
Gwandeung (鍾街觀燈) as follows:

Lanterns in every household of Seoul are as bright as the
glow of the setting sun.

The
world is crowded with mountain- and lake-shaped lights, and lotus flowers appear
on the second and fourth bridges.

The east and west streets are bright as broad daylight, and
children running around are faster than monkeys.

Though the Big Dipper has gone
down, lanterns stand still, and only a water clock rushes at dawn in front of
the palace.

Additionally,
Kings went to visit Bongeunsa Temple in the city with a long trail of loyal
subjects on Yeondeunghoe. As was done
in the past, a parade has been the highlight of a festival, even in modern
celebrations. Though lanterns used to light up every house, it is only natural
that these lanterns have managed to find their way into a festival, as we live
in the society of various religions. For people who identify with the meaning
of Yeondeunghoe, participating in the
parade holding the bright, highly-symbolic lanterns is the most enjoyable
experience of the celebration. Similarly, Yeondeunghoe
is not only the key ritual among Buddhist activities on Buddha’s birthday, but
also has been continuously celebrated in a way that holds historical
significance among the festivals of Korea.

* Please note that this writing is an excerpt from the book, "The Day We Go to Temple" and is contained in the summer 2016 edition of the Lotus Lantern magazine under Buddhist Culture Section on page 23~29.