Xolobeni by Jeep

Recently our good friends Brandon and Meagen invited us to go with them on a Jeep trip to a place called Xolobeni, just past the KwaZulu Natal border in the Eastern Cape. We had never been there, so accepted right away. Brandon sent me a couple links about the area, which has had a lot of interest around it. He mentioned that the trip might not happen, as they might not be able to get permits. They eventually came through though, and on Friday 10 June, we were on our way down the KwaZulu Natal south coast.

We stayed the night at an AirBnb in Southbroom, which was amazing. The KZN south coast is really beautiful; a place I haven’t spent much time in. The next morning, we were up early to meet the rest of the Jeep drivers at Mac Banana, where everyone was briefed on what was going to happen. I felt like I had happened upon a whole new subculture. As far as I know, the Jeeps were all the same or similar models, but they all looked pretty different. All of them were different colours, with different “mods” and stickers. People were wearing Jeep branded gear… I was fascinated. It felt so far removed from my world. Brandon’s one definitely looked the coolest though, all black in famous Doom fashion.

We had a short drive on the highway, before turning onto dirt roads. The drive just got more and more beautiful the further we went, and we wound our way through hills, valleys, past rivers and rural villages.

At one point, one of the Jeep’s close to the front got stuck, and the line came to a stand-still. Members of the local community began to gather around. Some tried to help, and others started asking questions. The atmosphere went from one of interest to one of tension, as the community demanded to see proof that we were permitted to be there. One of the leaders told them that we had permission from the Eastern Cape Government to be there. “We don’t care about that. Did you get permission from the chief?” was the response. Apparently we had permission though, and one of the leaders called the chief to confirm. Once the chief gave his OK, the crowd instantly relaxed, but still insisted that two men go with us. I completely understand their concern and aggression. This community has had a hard time with a mining company. One day twenty-five Jeep Wranglers show up. Of course you would be suspicious. Thankfully the tension didn’t amount to anything, and we were on our way.

I must admit that it felt pretty weird to be part of a big group of mostly white, relatively wealthy Jeep owners, driving through areas of poverty. Their roads are terrible, and we were using them for our enjoyment.

At the end of the day it was a very beautiful, interesting and exciting trip where we saw some amazing red sand dunes and drove four-wheel-drive through some gnarly terrain to reach the beach, where we picnicked on the beach and ate vegan hot dogs. We really appreciated the experience and the opportunity to see some of the serious challenges communities like this can experience.

About the area and the conflict surrounding it:

“My tears won’t fall on the ground for nothing. You can bring your machine guns. I am prepared to die for my land; I am not going anywhere.” – quote by a local woman.

So you can watch the trailer, visit the site, and click the links below to find out more, but I’ll try my best to summarise it here for you:
An Australian mining company called Mineral Resource Commodities wanted to strip-mine the sand dunes for ilmenite, the ore that contains titanium, one of the world’s most commercially valuable metals. They applied for rights to mine the area. The local residents reject the claim that this would be good for the economy, and they believe that it will destroy their home and way of life. The conflict got to a point where activist Sikhosiphi Rhadebe was brutally murdered in front of his son. It is suspected that the mining company was involved.

There is a documentary that has been made about the conflict here called The Shore Break.

7 Comments

I really enjoy your blog. However, I find this post quite in contrast with your always conscious approach to the environment and the impact we as humans make.

I find it unsettling to see people like yourself and Brandon, who openly speak about how shitty humans can be, to willingly participate in, and actually enjoy, an activity like 4×4’ing. Even though you got permission from the ‘government’ and the tribal chief, have you or Brandon ever considered how huge the impact of those Jeeps are on the environment?

I agree with you, and I know that Jeeps are not the best for the environment, which is why we don’t own one ourselves.
We were invited along on the trip, and decided to go for the experience.
Besides for the heavy fuel consumption, all the Jeeps followed a pre-defined route and didn’t go wild destroying dunes or anything like that.

There are other things we do that are terrible for the environment e.g. flying on planes, or consuming animal products, which has far more of an impact (animal agriculture is responsible for 18 percent of greenhouse gas emissions, more than the combined exhaust from all transportation.), which is why we are vegan. We also try to ride bicycles and walk as often as possible. These are just two ways that we are trying to offset our carbon footprint. This is not an excuse, I’m just pointing out the contrasts and contradictions of how we all live.

Hey Ron. To add to what Pete said also remember that this area is EXTREMELY remote. Getting there in the limited time we had required a 4×4 and due to the danger of breakdown or getting stuck best done in the company of others. As mentioned, the lead vehicle did get stuck and had to be assisted by 2 others. This was a result of sticking to what was left of the dirt road after recent heavy rains. There was an easier route alongside it on virgin grass.
You raise an important point though and one important to acknowledge as some 4×4 owners give the activity a bad name. In my limited experience the people I travel with are nature lovers and own a 4×4 to see and appreciate natural beauty. Actually getting permission was long and complicated, and even on the day there were difficulties. The reason for this will become obvious if you watch the most excellent documentary in this post. It’s a small fee to view on Vimeo. The main reason for me personally for visiting was to see the area and people in person that I’d only read about in news reports. I came away with a new found respect for community, land rights and culture.

Thank you both for taking the time to respond and lend some insight. I respect your opinion and will definitely watch the recommedned video.

I hear your concerns about flying and consuming animal products and it is evident that you do your best to offset your carbon footprint.

I guess the point I am trying to get across is that we as humans have a choice in how much of an impact we make just by living. The fact that you choose to drive around in a unnecessarily huge 4×4 almost defeats the purpose of even raising all these other valid concerns.

I am not implying that you do not have respect for the community and the environment, however I do find it disturbing to see that you preach one thing and then in your actions do another.

I guess I’m just curious what the point of your comment was besides calling us out as hypocrites? Right now it doesn’t seem much more to me than subtle trolling.
You could just as easily have commented on any of our international posts and called us hypocrites for flying on planes, which, as I pointed out, are far worse environmentally than Jeeps and which we use far more often.
Feel free to educate me on how I can live more consistently according to my personal convictions and morals. Good luck living according to yours.
– Pete

Maybe it’s that engines are seen as environmentally damaging?
Sure. But I’d be the first to admit life would be miserable without cars and planes, etc. in our current culture. It’s changing slowly, we’re getting more efficient, but we’re applying the pressure in more effective ways I think, by not eating animals.
We all use and rely on engines, and right now in Durban I’d be living a miserable life trying to achieve 100% eco-vegan warrior with every step I take.
I feel comfortable with the stats behind the pollution I’d be responsible for if I ate meat being far worse than the impact of a modern internal combustible engine (surprisingly efficient these days)
That said, fossil fuels are running out and vehicular transport as we know it will be quite different within 5 years. That’s what’s driving change, not pollution. And likely what is going to be driving change in diets too, the inability to produce enough meat to feed the population.

@Brandon, thanks for the links. Genuinely interested in this subject and support your views on what drives change.

@ Pete jeez dude, offended much about an observation from my side? You can call it subtle trolling or whatever you want if that is what makes you feel better… If you put this content out there, you open yourself up to comments which you should be able to respond to without getting so defensive. As I said, I really enjoy(ed) your blog and this was an occasion where I decided to comment. I didn’t attack you or make snotty remarks like you did.