I document my various outings of rock climbing in Newfoundland. A group of us are developing new sport climbing and trad climbing area's around the Avalon Peninsula. I like to share photo's of the new climbing route with overlay of topos. I also publish photos of established rock climbing areas with route descriptions.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Strength Training on Lead

Exercise "Clip to Clip"

Choose a hard redpoint lead project. After a good warm-up, climb to your high point and lower off. Pull your rope and then immediately start again. Climb to the first draw, clip and lower off. Quickly shake out, clip the second draw and lower off, so on and so forth. Be careful on overhanging routes as the higher you get the bigger the pendulum if you fall close to the ground.

This is great for working a route into submission but you get most familiar with the lower section. It is also good practice for clipping with flaming forearms. To get the best strength benefit it needs to be a hard project, not something you can top out.

Links

About Me

I am 46 and I have been rock climbing for about 14 years. I climb mostly moderate sport climbs. I do enjoy a bit of trad climbing. I would say one of my biggest interests in climbing is developing. There is tons of potential spots for climbing around St. John's and I like finding them and developing them with my climbing partners.