I just finished up a "survival" hiking staff. This is a project that I wanted to do for some time. At one location on the staff, I wanted to wrap some cordage on before I did a final paracord wrap over that area. Since I had also been making candles at the time, I put on a couple of yards of beeswax soaked wicking. I then put on a layer of a thin, braided nylon cord, followed by a top over wrap of paracord. The beeswax wick is flexible and wraps well, being slightly "sticky". It would make a good tinder for firestarting, being waterproof.It also is another type of useful cordage, and it could be used as a wick for a tallow or grease lamp. I think it's useful enough that I'm going to wax pieces a yard long, roll them up and include one in each of my kits.

I just finished up a "survival" hiking staff. This is a project that I wanted to do for some time. At one location on the staff, I wanted to wrap some cordage on before I did a final paracord wrap over that area. Since I had also been making candles at the time, I put on a couple of yards of beeswax soaked wicking. I then put on a layer of a thin, braided nylon cord, followed by a top over wrap of paracord. The beeswax wick is flexible and wraps well, being slightly "sticky". It would make a good tinder for firestarting, being waterproof.It also is another type of useful cordage, and it could be used as a wick for a tallow or grease lamp. I think it's useful enough that I'm going to wax pieces a yard long, roll them up and include one in each of my kits.

Carl, I'm not sure about waxed dental floss as a wick. I think its a nylon or synthetic material. The much thicker all cotton wick that I have "wicks" the liquid wax, tallow, grease or whatever so that it vaporizes and then burns. I think dental floss would just melt and not act as a candle wick. You are right though, dental floss is lightweight and strong. I'll have to try some in a candle and maybe Crisco and see if it will act as a candle.

I wanted to add that I have a finger nail clipper, with a nail file/cleaner blade, in each of my kits. Aside from the obvious use of keeping nails short, they are great for cutting line or cordage; eliminating slipping with a knife when cutting fishing line or paracord. There's nothing as frustrating as a split nail catching on things or a "hangnail" and a knife just isn't the answer.

I wanted to add that I have a finger nail clipper, with a nail file/cleaner blade, in each of my kits. Aside from the obvious use of keeping nails short, they are great for cutting line or cordage; eliminating slipping with a knife when cutting fishing line or paracord. There's nothing as frustrating as a split nail catching on things or a "hangnail" and a knife just isn't the answer.

TSA says it can bring down an aircraft...in the right hands. Use with caution.

It took me 3 afternoons, but I actually read through the last 18 pages of this thread and I found some great ideas.

As I stated in my intro thread, I'm a SAHM of almost 4 kids (due in August) and the last thing I want to do is to "bug out" to the Rocky Mountains with only supplies on my back. The kids hate half of my home-cooked meals.. why would I want to listen to them complain about dehydrated backpacking food AND being cold AND sleeping under a tarp AND...

I digress. I have a backpack GHB/Mini Emergency Rescue Bag stored in my car to get us home, where we could meet up with my husband and decide to hunker down or go. Plus, 90% of the time I'm within 15 minutes drive of my home, and the rare exceptions are trips to the zoo - maybe 35 miles away? Other then that, I'm either home or we are out together as a family anyway.

I live in the Mountain West, and aside from the more common small threats to our home or immediate area (I do live very close to a freeway, so overturned trucks could pose an issue), is an earthquake. I've done some research and if it is the size they predict, roadways will be completely unusable except for off roading. I'm not even sure if I could use a jogging stroller, but it might be my best bet. It is proposed that several dams will break when our "big one" hits and the valley will flood. But I live in an interesting spot - fairly close to a freeway that is much lower than me. I'm assuming the water will fill that portion of the freeway and our home will stay dry. (Would I be able to count that as a good source of treatable water??)

Here's what I've got in my car bag now. I've been grateful for it on numerous occasions when the kids needed a change of clothing because of a potty accident, or we were caught in a sudden rainstorm and I pulled out the ponchos, etc. But any tips are greatly appreciated because realistically, I have no idea how I would carry this heavy bag AND encourage/carry/drag the kids home as well. Not to mention carry the baby when he gets here. I imagine a walk home from the zoo would take our group a few days! (Haha..)

NUTRITIONFoldable plate, bowl and cup (similar to this http://www.backcountrygear.com/fozzils-solo-pack.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw2fLGBRDopP-vg7PLgvsBEiQAUOnIXJ-QYIqJzrbQtfK_vNiVPvCScY5cjDGUhmc9iviuPK8aAuUO8P8HAQ. I love using the plate as a cutting board when we go on picnics at the park, and I figure it will be useful for dividing/prepping the snacks on one of our many rest stops)Utensils (light my fire minis for everyone)GI can opener (Honestly don't know why I included this. I don't have any canned goods packed, but maybe we could find some?)3 SOS Food Bars (3600)3 Millenium food bars3 quart ziplocks with 12-14 snacks each (pb crackers, tuna pouches & ritz, raisins, trail mix packets, granola bars, stretch island fruit leathers, gum, apple sauce pouches, kool aid mini mix packets, etc)Sawyer mini water filter2 oz container/dropper with bleach27 oz single wall, stainless steel water bottle (to store water, or put close to fire and boil water if absolutely needed).

(Although I love having many of these things in the car for day-to-day things that come up, I'm thinking I will keep them in the front of the car and have a smaller bag in the emergency kit with just the basics - all purpose soap, sunscreen, feminine hygiene, and hand sanitizer)

TOOLS/SUPPLIEStoilet paperhandy saks (plastic bags)flint and steel (ha, told my husband that I need to actually start a fire with it this summer)2 bic lighterswhistle / compass /waterproof match container with matchesziplock of fire starters (made by dipping/coating cotton make up remover rounds into my Sentsy Candle Warmer after the scent has worn off. Waterproof until you rip them a little to expose the cotton fibers before lighting. They burn for like 5 minutes!)a very small flashlight for each kid (entertainment? comfort?)2 headlamps with extra batteriespermanent marker$100 cash - small bills, plus whatever change is in the car..multi tool from emergency essentialslittle bigger single folding knife

ENTERTAINMENT/COMFORTtiny scripturessudokutiny bubble container (from a wedding send-off)Yahtzee assembled into the little white containers that travel first aid kits come inchalkpen & small notebooka travel game that we got as part of a kids' meal3 hotwheel carsmini 4"x4" versions of my kids' blankets for the younger ones

I also keep a case of mini water bottles in the car, and a basic camelbak for each of us so we could fill them up and the kids can at least carry their own water. The downside is they will probably drink it faster than they should just because of easy access.

Plus, after August I'll need to add in diapers, wipes, and a few other baby related items. Also thinking about purchasing an emergency childbirth kit just in case. (I deliver at home with a midwife, so at least I have better-than-most experience in that area as long as there are no complications).

No idea what to do about protection/defense. And I'm probably a target with a bunch of kids and a big backpack of supplies, aren't I? Nor communication. I do have a couple 2 way walkie-talkies, but I think they have a 2 mile range. Not really helpful to get ahold of my husband if I'm further than that.

Rubber gloves make roadside cleanups easier and I would say that you have a good plan so communications is not of great importance often as you KNOW what the plan is and where each other should be an at home dry erase board with trip itinerary posted and a preplanned out of area phone to leave info in event of localized emergency should have you in pretty good shape . Your 'bag' is well sorted and should cover most events..

Pepper spray might be a good addition as no permanent harm should a child find it and a full size,well constructed umbrella is good for dog defence and can get pretty stabby when needed.Welcome to the group.

I'd be concerned about using flood water as a drinking source, even if you treated it or filtered it. While filtration with a particulate filter (like a coffee filter) and then running it through a quality water filter unit will take out the "chunks" and the bacteria, viruses, spores, etc., you still have to consider chemical contamination. In floodwaters, who knows what farm chemicals, oils, pesticides, gasoline, diesel fuel or whatever has mixed in. A biological filter will do nothing to remove these. I think an adequate activated charcoal filter might do the job, but you are getting pretty technical. Children have a much smaller resistance to damage from chemical contamination. I wouldn't chance it. After a flood, assume everything you come into contact with has been contaminated with fecal material, either from farms or human treatment systems. A gallon of fresh bleach (or more, if your staying in) will be needed to wipe down everything the kids come into contact with. Four kids and possibly you too, with severe diarrhea isn't an option. You will go through much more water than you might think, store as much as you can. As to self defense, if you aren't comfortable with a firearm (and I understand that herding four kids and trying to be "gun safe" could be a bit much), pepper spray is probably your best option; even if used against you, you'll live. I wouldn't count on the good intentions of strangers (and I'm as sceptical as anyone), but if you are rural, chances are people will all be in the same boat; it's not like you're living in Mogadishu. Smile, keep your distance and have that pepper spray in your hand until you are completely at ease with the situation. One other thought. I'm a big fan of Polarfleece. It's soft and warm, will keep you warm when damp and has that "comfy" feeling. Mylar space blankets are great for many situations, but they are somewhat fragile, slippery and noisy. I thing a reasonably sized Polarfleece "woobie" would keep the kids happier. If that's not warm enough put the space blanket over them too. Just remember, mylar blanket sheets don't breathe. It's great that they are waterproof, but your bodies water vapor will condense on the inside (much like a plastic raincoat on a hot day). You need to keep your insulation as dry as possible. In fact, in severe cold weather the method of use is to wrap up in the space blanket and then get into your sleeping bag or fabric insulating layer. You will get damp (but very warm) while the space blanket keeps your fabric insulation dry. It's called a vapor barrier and can be a lifesaver. If your feet get cold, even in "Pac-Boots) try putting on plastic bags before your socks, then the boots, Your socks will stay dry and your feet will feel damp, but will be deliciously warm. Just remember to periodically dry your feet thoroughly at intervals.[size=78%] [/size]

Jogging strollers are amazing. They are more off road capable than you know. That is also how you can move the weight of your pack. Make sure you can break your pack into a subload or two. Some stays on your back, other bits on or in the stroller. Little cheapo kids backpacks are useful also, games, chapstick and other sundries are off your back and it isn't much for them but every bit helps you. Also, don't be afraid to just not take a bunch of stuff if you don't think you will need it. Just leave it in the trunk. If you are trying to leg it home 10 miles in high summer perhaps leaving some winter gear is a worthy risk for instance.

I would recommend a little bit of trauma medical gear. Tourniquet, field dressing, an Israeli dressing perhaps. The chances of traumatic injury in a major earthquake makes it prudent.

This is not so much IN the BoB as what the BoB is (briefly) hanging from: a digital luggage scale.

I picked one up at Wally-World this evening for a big $7. It's a lot like this one, but American Tourister brand. It reads up to 88 lbs and has two decimal places in the the readout; one would've been plenty, but as long as it can get down to a 1/10 of a pound or an ounce, that's plenty of accuracy.

There was also a spring mechanical scale, but it was maybe good to the 1/2 pound. That's plenty of precision for the entire pack or the bigger items, but not good enough for shaving the weight on smaller things. A lot better than nothing, but for the same price the digital one is the one to get.

So... walking around the house weighing assorted items... medium ALICE pack w/frame is 7 lbs. The good hiking pack is only 4 lbs (but holds about twice as much the ALICE). Two-man tent.. 6.5 lbs. – not bad! And the BoB... the BoB is 22.2 lbs. which is lighter than I would've guessed.

It's important to know these weights in order to keep the weight trimmed down and under control. The BoB needs re-packing soon anyway, and I'll be weighting and judging things item-by-item when it gets done. It's an interesting tool with a lot of practical impact. Should have picked one up years ago. $7, cheap.

This is not so much IN the BoB as what the BoB is (briefly) hanging from: a digital luggage scale.

I picked one up at Wally-World this evening for a big $7. It's a lot like this one, but American Tourister brand. It reads up to 88 lbs and has two decimal places in the the readout; one would've been plenty, but as long as it can get down to a 1/10 of a pound or an ounce, that's plenty of accuracy.

There was also a spring mechanical scale, but it was maybe good to the 1/2 pound. That's plenty of precision for the entire pack or the bigger items, but not good enough for shaving the weight on smaller things. A lot better than nothing, but for the same price the digital one is the one to get.

So... walking around the house weighing assorted items... medium ALICE pack w/frame is 7 lbs. The good hiking pack is only 4 lbs (but holds about twice as much the ALICE). Two-man tent.. 6.5 lbs. – not bad! And the BoB... the BoB is 22.2 lbs. which is lighter than I would've guessed.

It's important to know these weights in order to keep the weight trimmed down and under control. The BoB needs re-packing soon anyway, and I'll be weighting and judging things item-by-item when it gets done. It's an interesting tool with a lot of practical impact. Should have picked one up years ago. $7, cheap.

As a bonus, you can measure the trigger pull weight of all your bug out weapons. You know, so you have something to do while hiding in the woods

Wow, what in interesting read! After perusing all of these posts, I decided I should take a look at the GHB I keep in my pickup's toolbox and share what I found. A little background, I live in Texas and commute 35 miles to work and put a bag together a few years ago with getting home from there in mind. I'm in my 50's and overweight according to my doctor but my wife fibs and says I look great. I figure best case scenario, I hump home in 2 days, worst case, 3 days.After dumping the contents of my GHB (which has sat untouched for at least two years in my truck's metal toolbox), here are my observations:1. The bag itself! It's camo and screams tactical (i.e. might draw unwanted attention). I'm swapping it out for one my son used in high school which is ordinary looking and weathered.2. Batteries! They were all dead and the ones left in lights had leaked and pretty much ruined them. One exception was the square 9v battery with a snap-on LED light, it still works great.3. Disposable lighters! I had two of them which had failed. When I tried to light each, there was a puff of dust and then very little resistance while spinning the thumbwheel. They also seemed to be empty of fuel although were brand new when I placed them into the bag. 4. Food! All I had was a brick of Mainstay 3600 which is made for life boats I think with a shelf life of 5 years. Not sure I trust it now.5. Tape! Duct and electrical was a gooey mess and was promptly tossed into the trash.6. Cheap First Aid kit! Pretty much toast. The adhesive used to seal the individual bandages had failed with loose bandages floating around the kit.7. Miscellaneous crap! Shampoo, mouthwash? What was I thinking?All in all, here's my takeaway from this inspection. A BOB or GHB is not something you put together and then forget about hoping it will serve you well if ever needed. For my location, it's too damn hot to store in a truck tool box. Since my truck is a Crewmax, I'll start storing it on floor of back seat. I always leave my windows cracked a quarter inch anyway for ventilation so it should be better than inside a metal toolbox baking in the sun. I will also see it more so will be more prone to inspect it more often. Thanks to all of you for taking the time to share on this thread. Your experience and insights are helping others more than you may know.

Cupric;There are two ways to tackle the batteries. If you are disciplined enough, switch them out with your smoke detector battery. If you are not (I am not), spend a bit more and go lithium. They are better and dont leak (to my knowledge).

The other potential is to switch much of it with your smoke detector battery (I use my email program's calendar feature to to remind me on the smoke detector batteries) as an opportunity to refresh your GHB.

once upon a time I had two identical pairs of Duluth Trading Company Hose Pants. I vacuum packed one and threw it in the bug out bag. Years later I pulled it out and realized the two pairs looked completely different due to lack of sun fading and no wear. I switched them but finally had to toss them because I had apparently...expanded.

I maintain a gizmo bag for batteries, chargers, mp3 players, usb sticks, cables, and whatever I would need to get connected while on the road. I take it with camping or traveling hotel style. I do not have a handle on the logic on which batteries use for everyday use and which to use for power outage, on the road. I once heard Steve Harris say you should use one type for everyday use and in the event of a power outage to switch to the other. Can't remember which was which or the logic. My problem with using rechargeable batteries for everyday use is that if I want to gather them all up I don't remember where I am using them. Is there any rhyme or reason to which batteries to use for everyday use and for outages use?

Is there any rhyme or reason to which batteries to use for everyday use and for outages use?

Carver, Steve's advice on batteries seems to change over time as battery technology changes. Without repeating his latest (which I would probably mis-remember anyway), here's what I do:

- BOB: 10-year shelf life AA Energizers; they can sit

- Camping/travel: a medium-sized usb device charger batt pack; hopefully I'll remember to stick it in the BOB if it comes to that. It's always charged, ready to go.

- Everyday: a large pool of Eneloop AA and AAAs. One of my kitchen drawers has 3 bins, for "just charged," "charged," and "dead." "Charged" gets used first, and when it's empty (counting AAs and AAAs separately), all of the "just charged" get moved up to the "charged" bin. This way, things get rotated out and nothing ever gets too stale. About twice a year they all get a refresh cycle in the charger, or whenever something seems shaky.

- Specialty: a few specialties, mostly for ham radios. These get treated as specialty items, separate from the battery pool.

That's not exactly what you were asking, but I hope it helps. Overall, just keep a big enough pool of Eneloop rechargeables that it's no big deal when some of them get sidelined into the TV remote for a year. It's pricy at first, but after a couple of years it pays for itself.

Well, first off, I made the decision to limit the number of battery-operated devices in my kits. Right now, I only have Flashlights and a radio that require AA batteries. For these, I use the Energizer Lithium batteries, mainly because they store for so long. As a side note, I have added portable "Power Banks" to my GHB and BOB, just in case the situation still allows me use of my tablet or phone.

As a side note, I used to be against tablets or laptops in a BOB or GHB but now that the size, weight, memory and useful apps and features have greatly increased, I can see a use for them as long as they're not damaged via EMP/CME, etc.

Downloading things like maps with both topo and satellite views can be very helpful in navigation. No, I haven't tossed my printed maps and compasses, but it does help with route recon and the like. Adding in a bunch of manuals and other how-to books may come in handy.

What I wish I could find are some of those rechargers that use AA batteries to charge a phone. I don't want to carry solar panels if it becomes an extended walk because of the extra weight. I still have some old ones made by Energizer that take 2 AA batteries and lets you recharge your cell phone. But, that's why I now use the portable battery banks.

Carver, Steve's advice on batteries seems to change over time as battery technology changes. Without repeating his latest (which I would probably mis-remember anyway), here's what I do:

- BOB: 10-year shelf life AA Energizers; they can sit

- Camping/travel: a medium-sized usb device charger batt pack; hopefully I'll remember to stick it in the BOB if it comes to that. It's always charged, ready to go.

- Everyday: a large pool of Eneloop AA and AAAs. One of my kitchen drawers has 3 bins, for "just charged," "charged," and "dead." "Charged" gets used first, and when it's empty (counting AAs and AAAs separately), all of the "just charged" get moved up to the "charged" bin. This way, things get rotated out and nothing ever gets too stale. About twice a year they all get a refresh cycle in the charger, or whenever something seems shaky.

- Specialty: a few specialties, mostly for ham radios. These get treated as specialty items, separate from the battery pool.

That's not exactly what you were asking, but I hope it helps. Overall, just keep a big enough pool of Eneloop rechargeables that it's no big deal when some of them get sidelined into the TV remote for a year. It's pricy at first, but after a couple of years it pays for itself.

100%. Those Eneloops were a game changer. Especially having a child where all baby toys require batteries. I got a few packs and even got the C and D adapters for emergency. Yes, we still buy bulk packs of whatever is cheapest at Costco as a backup but the container of Eneloops is awesome. Ironically the biggest problem is the required "battery check" when we donate an outgrown toy. Also real good if before kids you and your wife play a little too much Nintendo Wii...

Carver, Steve's advice on batteries seems to change over time as battery technology changes. Without repeating his latest (which I would probably mis-remember anyway), here's what I do:

- BOB: 10-year shelf life AA Energizers; they can sit

- Camping/travel: a medium-sized usb device charger batt pack; hopefully I'll remember to stick it in the BOB if it comes to that. It's always charged, ready to go.

- Everyday: a large pool of Eneloop AA and AAAs. One of my kitchen drawers has 3 bins, for "just charged," "charged," and "dead." "Charged" gets used first, and when it's empty (counting AAs and AAAs separately), all of the "just charged" get moved up to the "charged" bin. This way, things get rotated out and nothing ever gets too stale. About twice a year they all get a refresh cycle in the charger, or whenever something seems shaky.

- Specialty: a few specialties, mostly for ham radios. These get treated as specialty items, separate from the battery pool.

That's not exactly what you were asking, but I hope it helps. Overall, just keep a big enough pool of Eneloop rechargeables that it's no big deal when some of them get sidelined into the TV remote for a year. It's pricy at first, but after a couple of years it pays for itself.

Agree about the Eneloops, teaching your kids to change/recharge their batteries... "game changer". http://battery1234.com has some good recommendations (look near bottom of the page)

I'd suggest one of our top priorities in our BOB's should be MAPS..A few years ago my friend and his wife invited me to visit them in their home city, so I threw a few things in my small rucksack and jumped on the coach, but forgot a map of his city.When I arrived we went strolling out and about on foot but because I had no map I felt totally disoriented in the strange streets, I didn't even know which way was north and it was a very unsettling experience.