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For best service, you should incorporate an oiler, regulator, and inline filter, as shown in the diagram on the next page. Hoses, couplers, oilers, regulators, and filters are all available at Harbor Freight Tools. NOTE: If an automatic oiler is not used, put 3-5 drops of pneumatic Tool Oil (not included) in the Motorcycle Lift’s Quick Coupler (38A) before each use. (See Figure B, next page.) To Check The Level Of Hydraulic Oil: 1. The Motorcycle Lift already contains some hydraulic oil in its Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). Even so, it is recommended that you check the oil level in the Reservoir and, if necessary, top off the Reservoir with the proper amount of 15/40 hydraulic oil (not included). (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 2. Make sure to screw the two Adjusting Screws clockwise enough to lift the two Caster Wheels (14) off the floor so as to provide stability for the Motorcycle Lift. (See Figure A.) 3. To check the level of hydraulic oil, remove the Sliding Plate (36) from the Platform (35) to expose the Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). (See Assy. Diagrams, pages 13 and 15.) 4. Remove the rubber Filler Plug (33P) located on the top of the Reservoir (32P). If necessary, top off the Reservoir with hydraulic oil. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 5. Connect the air compressor’s hose to the to the Air Motor assembly. Then turn on the air compressor and set its regulator at 120 PSI. (See Assy. Diagram, page 14.) 5. Insert the Lift Foot Pedal (11) onto the Pump Piston Spindle (9), and slowly pump the Lift Foot Pedal until a slight amount of hydraulic oil begins to leak out of the Reservoir (32P). Discontinue pumping the Lift Foot Pedal. Then, replace the Filler Plug (33P) on the top of the Reservoir. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) REGULATOR OILER FILTER TO QUICK COUPLER (38A) OF MOTORCYCLE LIFT FIGURE B 6. Insert the Release Foot Pedal (10) onto the Release Valve Spindle (5). Pump the Lift Foot Pedal (11) until the Platform (35) of the Motorcycle Lift reaches its maximum height. Then press down slightly on the Release Foot Pedal until the Platform is fully collapsed to the floor. Repeat this procedure several times to ensure the Motorcycle Lift is operating properly. (See Figure E, page 10.)

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1. Always inspect the lift for freight damage and make note of any damage on the bill of lading. 2. In case of freight damage, call the truck line immediately and report the damage as a freight claim. Final Set-Up for model Pro-Cycle This lift is more than 90% factory pre-assembled. The following steps will guide you through the final set-up. IT WOULD BE EASIER FOR TWO MEN TO COMPLETE FOLLOWING STEPS. 1. Unpack the lift from the shipping skid. With the lift table up side down, connect the air hose to the air cylinder (Part # 26). 2. After tightening the hose to the cylinder, flip the lift over with the table surface up. 5 3. Lift up the table manually to the first lock position to make sure the lift is rising freely. Lubricateing the joints again before use will ensure a better performance of the lift. 4. Connect the other end of the air hose to the foot-operated valve. Then connect the foot- operated valve to 100 PSI air supply. DO NOT USE AIR SUPPLY WITH PRESSURE MORE THAN 100 PSI. 5. Release the safety bar by pushing the handle down. Operate the foot valve by stepping on the footpad forward to raise the lift. The safety bar should engage the ladder automatically while lift is rising. Step on the footpad again to set the pad in middle position to stop the lift when it reaches the desired height. ALWAYS LOWER LIFT IN THE NEAREST LOCKED POSITION BEFORE BEGINNING WORK. NEVER USE THE LIFT UNLESS YOU ARE IN A LOCKED POSITION. The lift should never be left unattended while attached to air pressure. Disconnect the air pressure when lift is not attended by qualified persons. 6. Install the vise using bolts and nuts supplied with the lift (part # 6 to 12). See fig #1. 7. Install the approach ramp by dropping it into the holes punched on the rear edge of the table. The final Set-Up for the Pro-Cycle model is complete

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1. Load should not exceed rated capacity for this lift – 1500lbs 2. 70-160PSI shop air needed. 3. Make sure the handle is in the down position and the safety plate is set in the safety lock while the lift is in the raised position. 4. Move the lift only when it is lowered. 5. Do not ride vehicle onto lift. 6. Only trained people should operate the lift. 7. Air/Hydraulic pump should be at least 3 feet away when operating. Remain clear of the lift when raising or lowering. 8. Indoor use recommended. 9. Do not move lift while loaded. 10. Keep hands, tools and other extremities from under carriage and moving parts.. 11. Maintain a safe working environment. The work area should be clean, dry, clutter free, and sufficiently lit. 12. Wear proper ANSI-approved safety attire. Do not wear loose fitting clothing while operating lift, long hair and sleeves should be secured. 13. Keep children and bystanders away from work area. Do not let children operate or play on lift. 14. Do not use if under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Operator must be alert at all times when using heavy lift equipment. 15. Never operate the lift with someone on it. 16. Do not adjust safety valve. 17. Use this lift only for the work it is intended. Do not use this product for an application for which it was not designed. Misuse can lead to personal injury and/or property damage. 18. Industrial applications must follow OSHA requirements. 19. Do not use for aircraft purposes. 20. Have your lift serviced by a qualified repair person using only identical Titan Lifts® replacement parts and attachments. This will ensure that the safety of the lift is maintained.

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6 RML-600 Instructions 1. Center load on table – 1000 lb. maximum. 2. Connect to 100 PSI maximum shop air. 3. Keep safety bar in position at all times – except when lowering. 4. Keep hands and tools from under carriage. 5. Do not mount table when in elevated position. 6. Do not ride vehicle onto lift. 7. Lift must be in the lowered position when moving. 8. Only trained persons should operate Air Lift. 9. The working area should be sufficiently lit. 10. Foot controller should be at least 3 feet away from Air Lift during raising and lowering operation. 11. Lift is recommended for indoor use only. nstallation Instructions The Cycle Vise mounts directly onto the RML-600. Align two inside holes of the fixed clamp over the existing vise hole pattern as shown. Align the moveable clamp with the locating corner hole. CYCLE VISE
8 1. Insert pipes from extension panel package through holes in lift table. 2. Mount panels on ends of pipe on each side of table. With ramp hole to outside. 3. Insert M8 BOLTprovided through holes in each end of pipe. 4. Secure ramp extensions to ramp with bolts provided. Make sure ramp hooks are positioned on the outside. 5. Stabilization bar directions – Unscrew cap from one of the ends of the stabilization pipe. 6. Insert bolt in drilled out hole and tighten with nut. Slide pipe through the stationary square tubing on the lift legs. Insert the other bolt, tighten down with nut. Put on the other cap and tighten. Installation Instructions (Optional) 12″ Side Extensions
9 POSITION THE 13″ EXTENSION OVER THE EXISTING TABLE AS SHOWN AND ATTACH WITH FOUR M8 CAPSCREWS, NUTS AND LOCK WASHERS PROVIDED. EYE BOLTS ARE ALSO PROVIDED WITH THE EXTENSION KITAND MAYBE INSTALLED AS SHOWN USING M8 HEX NUTS AND LOCKWASHERS

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Your lift comes packaged as a single unit. A fork-lift, floor-jack or other heavy-lifting equipment may be necessary to separate the components. Exercise caution when disassembling the packaged lift, as shifting may have occurred during shipping. 2] Carefully unpack the lift. Check for any obvious shipping damage. (Remember to report any shipping damage to the carrier and make a notation on the delivery receipt.) 3] Carefully turn the table upright into operating position before removing shipping cable restraint from scissor mechanism. 4] Connect foot-operated air valve to 100 psi maximum air supply. The lift may be damaged and/or personal injury may result if the pressure exceeds the maximum 100 psi rating. 5] Stand clear of lift table, and depress the “UP” side of the foot valve to raise the table. 6] To lower table, lift locking bar from safety latch and lower to next position, or to the floor. 7] Place drop-out cover over drop out opening. 8] Insert ramp mounting pins into holes at either end of table to mount ramp. NOTE: If cycle vise is being installed, ramp must be mounted opposite the cycle vise. OPERATION and MAINTENANCE 1] Loads must be centered on table at all times. Table is rated for a maximum load of 1,000lbs. 2] Loads must be firmly positioned and secured on table at all times. 3] All moving parts have been lubricated at the factory and should be re-lubricated every six (6) months to prevent problems. Grease points are located at each end of frame pivot shaft and at top ends of inside frame assembly. 4] Lightly oil cylinder rod when it becomes dry. 5] Squirt some oil through bleed hole in plate end of cylinder to lubricate piston and its seal every six (6) months. 6] Pivot shaft set screws should be checked frequently to be sure they are tight. These are located at the top end of the inside frame assembly.

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Installation A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. Position the motorcycle on a straight and level surface. While the bike rests on the Jiffy Stand, straighten the front wheel and place the frame leveling extrusion under the front tire to keep the tire straight. 2. Slide the motorcycle lift (fully lowered) under the bike from the right side (opposite jiffy stand side) lining up the frame rails with each of the perpendicular jacking rails on the lift. When properly aligned, the left frame rail will be approximately 1″ from the lift end section (Figure 2) and lift base will be adjacent to the Jiffy Stand (Figure 3). This will allow bike to be centered when moved to an upright position

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trailer with which to haul your machine(s). The steady stream of four-wheelers trailering two- wheelers to Daytona Bike Week proves that, for a considerable number of us, Mother Nature’s elements are sometimes best enjoyed upon reaching our destination, rather than experienced while traveling toward it. Travel aside, motorcycle trailers are handy, even indispensable, for getting asickly motorcycle to the shop, or to avoid committing the better part of a day waiting while the dealer installs new tires and brake pads. Finally, we find atrailer is preferable to a pickup truck for motorcycle transport, especially when singlehandedly loading/unloading. The problem for many of us is where do we find the space to park this little- used device? No matter if it’s a flatbe Rod Haskins, owner of metal bender Maintenance &Fab in Richmond, California, isn’t a rider himself, but his research indicated a market existed for a sturdily built, full-sized motorcycle trailer that folded compactly when not in use. Learning of a dormant but clever design developed by an agricultural trailer company, Haskins struck a deal, made several improvements and the Stinger Trailer was born. Werecently spent some time with a Stinger and found it to be a clever product. The Stinger arrived folded and secured to a wooden pallet. Assembly was simple, and within 20 minutes we had the 180- pound trailer ready to tow. The trailer is not towable in the folded position—that’s for storage only. Aone-car garage, home to our full-sized Chevrolet, couldn’tnormally house a motorcycle trailer, too. But the folded Stinger squeezed in nicely

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1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt

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Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs