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Walking in Sorrento, Amalfi and Capri

A trip based on this book was the most enjoyable I have ever had. (Nick, Amazon)

The local holiday rep was so impressed by our local knowledge, courtesy of your book, that she took down details and sent a request to her mother to forward a copy to her! She felt that this was the first detailed guide book to this particular part of Italy.

The content, diagrams, maps, and directions are excellent; the pull-out map inside the back cover most useful. (AT, Amazon)

I do not think that there is a better publication for those of us who want to explore the ‘real’ countryside of Europe. (EMW, Crewe)

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One of Sunflower’s most popular guides ever — just look at the Amazon reviews. Sorrento, Amalfi and Capri are wonderful areas for walkers. The author visits at least once a year to update — but he has ‘eyes and ears on the ground’ as well, so although this is the latest edition with all the changes known to us early spring 2017, always look at the Update page as well for last-minute tips from users or colleagues in this region of Italy.

Accident of history and steepness of terrain have preserved a network of ancient footpaths linking the coastal towns of the Neapolitan Riviera and the surrounding countryside. You can either climb almost from your hotel doorstep up into the lemon groves or take a bus into the hills and walk back down. All along the way you will visit hillside villages or remote monasteries and be regaled by the most stunning views. The flowers are a constant delight: from broom and rosemary in March to freesias and cistus in May. In autumn, the woods are carpeted with cyclamen. Most of the paths can be followed easily by people who do not claim to be regular walkers, though committed hikers will like them just the same.

Area covered: The entire Amalfi (Sorrento) Peninsula, from the famous Amalfi Coast to the foothills of the Lattari Mountains; also the island of Capri, 6km off the coast

The best months for walking the Amalfi Coast are April-June, September/October.

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

General Warning 1: Following exceptional rains during December 2019, the coast road is currently blocked by landslides in two places making Amalfi unreachable by road. Work is in hand to make repairs and this note will be kept up to date when new informnation comes in.

We have also heard of landslips in various places affection the paths in the hills behind Amalfi and further east, so be prepared for the unexpected when planning walks there. The situations looks less serious further west.

General Warning 2: When stone-paved paths are wet they can be very slippery. This affects mostly the sloping paths behind Sorrento and on Capri where there are fewer steps. So, take care.

Segment 1: The path outside the road tunnel is under repair, so you have to walk through the tunnel. If you intend going down to to the sea-front, the steps down are also under repair. To get to the sea-front, on reaching the main road turn left and, after about 50m/yds, find other steps going down. (Author 6/16)

Segment 13: Walk planning tip: those wanting an extended walk in the hills flanking the coast could combine this segment with Segment 34 Pogerola to San Lazzaro. However, instead of descending into Pogerola to finish Segment 13 so as to pick up Segment 34 from its start, you can cut across from one to the other staying in the hills. To do this: at the prominent path fork (page 53, next to last line) take the right fork. This path now takes a gradually ascending route, keeping the slope up on your right. Look for intermittent CAI marks, and at path forks tend to take the upper (right-hand) choice. After about 1km/0.6mi you come to a spring Acquolella at the foot of the rocky gully that divides Monte Molignano on the left from the main mountainside on the right. Ascend this gully; at its top reach a broad path that climbs to the next corner of the mountain, where it curves right. Shortly Segment 34 joins from the left. Continue on Segment 34. (Author 2/13)

Segments 22 and 23: Alas previous extensive fires on the hillside surrounding the Caserma Forestale have damaged the vegetation badly, taking much of the pleasure out of these segments. However, they will be left in the book as they are passable and provide a link between undamaged segments. (Author 9/19)

Segments 32, 33 and 36: The end sections of these segments make a descent down the side of the gorge to Marina di Furore. The paths on both sides of the gorge had become blocked by fear of falling rocks. Segment 36 has been further damaged by recent fire, and is officially closed by a barrier near the top. As for Segments 32 and 33, this common section ascends from the Marina to Sant’Elia. It is reported that a barrier put in to stop walkers using the path has had a hole punched through allowing passage, though this has not been confirmed by someone known to the author. It is probably best to consider a passage through Marina di Furore as being closed until futher notice. (Author 9/17)

Segment 34: Option 2 (bottom of page 83), route via Convento di Cospito. This fascinating and exhilarating route that descends to the remote ruins of a convent and continues by climbing a rocky cleft requiring some scrambling and a head for heights. Add 30 mins walking time and 125m ascent. From the sharp right bend, take the level path going half left. Follow this for 400m/yds until it reaches the foot of a cliff and the view ahead opens. Follow a path going obliquely right down the slope, heading for the convent now visible 500m/yds down/ahead. From the convent take the path with handrail to the foot of the cliff 150m away, and turn right. The path hugs the foot of the cliffs and ascends steeply to a rocky cleft. Climb this on rough steps aided by wooden poles fixed to the rock. At the top of the cleft the path continues round to the left, and follows the top rim of the cliffs for 200m/yds, until it turns right, ascends a few more steps, becomes gravel and, after 200m/yds more, joins a broad stone path. Turn left down to San Lazzaro. (Author 10/10)

Segment 41: All went well until we reached line 3 on page 92: “Turn right and continue past a waymark to a cistern“. After passing the waymark and before reaching the cistern, a very large tree had fallen across the path, blocking the path completely. A rough route had been hacked out through heavy vegetation to the right of the path, climbing up steeply through the overgrown terracing, and then making its way back to the path, 50m/yds or so beyond the cistern. When reaching the level path again, be sure to retrace the path back to the cistern, otherwise you will miss ” … a short steep rocky descent alongside a small stream. ” mentioned at line 6 on page 92. The cistern itself is completely hidden by vegetation until you are close enough to touch it, although you can hear the water dripping in/out of it. (User, 10/13)

Segment 44:

Update 1: The bus from Maiori, 2km after leaving Polvica, might not turn right to Capitignano. In this case after passing an obvious turning to the right, alight immediately in the next Village, Pietre. Here take the road off to the right from the village centre which leads in 1km to Capitignano.

Update 2: Just after the village of Pendolo the way ahead goes through lemon terraces with a sheer wall on the left and a sheer drop on the right. To continue on this route brings you after 10 minutes to an impassable landslip. Instead, there is a track leading up to the left marked with red/white marks. Follow this which will take you past the landslip and back down to the main route, heading for Novella.

Update 3: After Pucara and having crossed the main road you are on a minor road signed Paterno. After 300m do not go left in front of the mill as the onward path has become overgrown. Instead continue on the minor road. After 300m more cross a stream to a T-junction. Turn left and ascend after 300m to a hamlet and, after 100m more, to a right-hand bend. Here a path ascends to the left on the right hand side of a house. You are now on Segment 43, line 11 on page 95. Continue round a side valley…to the end of the segment. (User 05/19)

Segment 45b: From the start of the segment there are now fewer red spots to guide you down to the picnic site (30 min). Also, on the way down to the site there are now two junctions to negotiate — first a T-junction. Turn left. Second, either straight ahead or go right — go right. (User 05/19)

50 Pantano — Massa Lubrense: In May 2014 a massive landslide obliterated the road only 100yds/m from the Pantano end of this segment, at first making the segment completely impassable. However a serviceable path over the disturbed ground of the landslip has become established so consider this segment to be in full working order. (Author 8/18)

Segment 56: Note: The following update concerns only the 8th edition or earlier. The 9th edition features a completely new Segmant 56 between Sorrento and Sant’Agata.Segment 56: In the middle section of the segment a stretch of the “paved path” (Segment 56a line 16; Segment 56b also line 16) had slumped down the hillside making the going awkward for maybe 20 m/yds. Now a further landslip has made the section completely impassable so a detour is required. Barriers have been put in place at both ends of the stretch. To avoid the section take the following action, or note completely new versions of Segment 56 (see below at end of this update) which will replace the current ones in the next edition:Segment 56a: At the barrier take the path left the short stretch up to the main road. Turn right and descend for 400m/yds to the first narrow road on the right. Descend this to a broad road and turn right. After 100m the original route joins from the right; continue ahead to the chapel in Crocevia.Segment 56b: Return to the start of Via Li Schisani and turn left. After 100m/yds turn left up a narrow road which leads up after 400m/yds to a main road. Turn left and, after 400m/yds at the start of a right hand hairpin bend, go left down a path. In just a few metres turn right onto the original route on the concrete path. (Author 09/15)

Segment 57. 5th line. Salita Castello: The castle is now restored and well worth a visit for its delightful site, a commanding tower and splendid all-round views. It’s open: Tuesday-Saturday 16.30-20.00, and Sunday 10.30-12.30 and 16.30-20.00. (Author 10/13)

Segment 64a. At the highest point of Via Rocca, at the crossroads of narrow roads, the road you take to the right is now concreted. The road to the right of the wiggle 300m further on has been recently concreted and now looks like a private driveway. Do not be put off. (User 09/18)

Here are two additional walk segments.

Additional Segment 1: Owing to lack of space the book describes Segment 30 in one direction only. This is a key segment for anyone wanting to put together a long distance walk from Sorrento to Amalfi (and maybe beyond). But those wanting to go Amalfi to Sorrento are stymied. So, here is the missing description.

Segment 30b Santa Maria del Castello — Colle di San Pietro

Time: 4 hours: Grade: moderate, with a height gain of 250m/800ft

Leaving the church drive, turn left. In 200m/yds at a crossing of minor roads, turn left. This narrow tarmac road bends right after 50m/yds and passes a farmhouse on the left.

The track descends 150m past other buildings to the bottom at a concrete embankment. The (now) path ascends ahead for 200m up a flight of widely-spaced log steps. The path now levels off and acquires a wooden fence (with gaps) on your left. Follow this, rocky in places, for 300m to where the path descends, you pass a climbing frame and can see a cross on a rock to your left. Shortly a path with information board, joins from the left and 10m further on, a track joins from the right. Here turn left.

This new path quickly bends right to ascend alongside mostly disused vegetable terraces on your left. (At this point, you will probably be able to make out high on the hillside straight ahead the line of a wooden fence above small cliffs. You will follow this later). After 150m the path ascends for 150m a long flight of widely-spaced log steps with a wooden fence on your left. At the top the fence stops and reappears on the right. After 50m reach a gap in the fence (the path ahead is less well trodden). A well-used rocky path now makes its way up the hillside to your left.

Now with good CAI marks, turn L uphill, following the rocky waymarked path. After five minutes or so, the path regains the cliff edge at an unstable fence. The path bends left around the head of a valley then rises to join a ridge, where it turns right, uphill again.

Continue uphill to reach a ladder stile, which you cross. After the stile, a track joins from the right. Here turn L uphill. CAI marks now become scarce.

Continue ahead for 100m to the corner of a field by a gate. Keep left of the corner, and follow the fence on your right. This is Monte Comune, the highest point of your walk. You are walking through a rather featureless cattle grazing enclosure stretching down to the left. Follow the fence until it ends by a gate. Continue for 30m more, dropping slightly, to a wire fence which marks the edge of sea cliffs, with an arrow pointing right. Turn R and cross a second ladder stile.

Continue v. slightly right to join another fence on your right and pass (do not go over) another ladder stile. Some 100m/yds after the stile go a little left, gently downhill, to join a waymarked path at edge of rocks (with a fence on the left), with another arrow sign pointing right. CAI marks now become prolific again. Continue on this path, with fences on both sides converging, to cross a third ladder stile (collapsed October 2014).

Views should open up now ahead, of the rest of the peninsula, with Sorrento down half right. The fence now curves off to the right. The way now goes obliquely down the steep hill towards a grove of trees. Initially hidden from sight is a ruined farmhouse, but as you reach the trees you pass it, with a waymark on its corner

Continue downhill past the grove, through the bracken, with a valley starting to appear on the right. Note a tree covered hill ahead in the distance with a metal cross — you will be heading for this later.

The path continues steeply down, keeping to the top of the “spur” (or ridge) between the two drops, firstly slightly on the right hand side of the spur before regaining the centre of the spur at a col in front of a striking rocky peak ahead on the spur.

On reaching the rocky peak, take a path zigzagging down left, to a better path leading right by a fence below the peak.

Continue by the fence towards a col with old stone gate posts (Porta d’Arola).

Turn R at the gateposts to join a good path. After only 5 metres turn L and follow the path for a while up through the woods. Ignoring a first left fork, continue to a second (4 mins after the Porta), and take it uphill (a clear waymark is on a tree 10m up the path). Follow the path up to the rim of the plateau, passing a stone farm building on the right. Turn R to walk WSW along the edge. The path reaches the end of the promontory (look down at the col ahead and note a green roofed square concrete building) and then strikes inland, downhill, to meet a good path at a T-junction. Turn left to the col.

Continue past the concrete building to pick up a path through the woods, curving to the right and climbing obliquely up the hillside in the general direction of the metal cross (invisible from here). The path reaches a col, clear of the trees and on your left is a clear waymark on a tree. (If you carry on further you reach the cross after 5 minutes for a good view of Sorrento. Return to this point).

At the tree, take a small path heading left (due S), across scrubby vegetation. After about 100m/yds join an old mule track descending the slope left. This descends the hillside in six long gentle zigzags. This is overgrown at the top and take care on the uneven surface. It improves towards the bottom of the slope, and finally arrives at a fork; take the left hand one to a large gate. Pass through into the gardens of a former palazzo, now a conference centre. Descend through the gardens, keeping generally left, to the main gates and a road junction. Here continue straight ahead along the road for 300m/yds to reach the main road in Colle di San Pietro. (Author, 8/18)

Additional Segment 2: Ascent of Monte San Michele

It is not difficult to climb the highest of the Lattari Mountains at 1444m/4738ft, the peak visible from Sorrento to the east. The highest summit rock is called ‘Molare’, or the molar, the reason why being obvious once you have seen it. By taking the cable car from Castellamare di Stabia (connecting at the Circumvesuviana station) you are whisked up to 1102m/ 3615ft, and from there well-built and easily-followed paths lead straight to the summit. Although the route lies mostly in woodland there are fabulous views at many places on the ascent.You descend by the way you went up. There is little risk of loosing the way, but these instructions must be followed carefully as a simple mistake can lead you into difficult territory. The main risk comes from the effects of deteriorating weather, as at that height temperatures can drop quickly,possibly aggravated by wind and/or rain. Thus the climb must be attempted only in settled weather, and you should carry weather-proof clothing.

On exiting from the cable car building turn right to take the steps and landing above the exit and hop over the 90cm high railing to gain access to the ridge-top path. Follow this ascending gradually, after 200m/yds passing to the left of a radio station.

Follow a good track along the crest of the ridge for 20min, until a second radio station blocks the way (It may be that more stations have been built since I was there – basically you are following the ridge for about 50min to a prominent chapel.). Pass to the right of the second radio station, onto a narrow tarmac road.Either continue quite easily on the rocky ridge top (views) or stay on the minor road until it reaches the ridge top again by small level grassy area. From here take the rough path ahead up the ridge to the chapel of San Michele and a third radio station, which are now visible (50min).

From the chapel, descend the road in zigzags to the third right-hand bend looking for a flat area on the left. Go over the flat area to a flat gravelly area; at its far left end descend left for about 200m/yds by a rough stepped path, to a well-built mule track going right (i.e. with the slope up to your right).

At first descend gradually for about 200m/yds; then the gradual ascent starts. From here you start seeing red/white CAI paint signs. When you meet a rough rocky patch with great bulging overhang to the right, look for the zigzag path up ahead, cut in the rock. After the rocky patch the path comes out onto a level rock ledge with handrails (and fabulous views left — the square peak (Molare) towering above on the other side of the deep valley is our destination). 200m/yds after the handrails you come to imposing cliffs above to the right; in a further300m/yds you come to a T-junction.

Turn sharp right; a red/white CAI V-turn is painted on a rock at the junction (1h30min). (On leaving the junction, look back to memorise it for the return.) Ascend the path in about four wide zigzags to a second three-way junction (1h40min); the two routes ahead are marked ‘Conocchia’ to the right and ‘Molare’ to the left. Go left. After 200m/yds the path zigzags and transfers to the other (south) side of the mountain. Continue to a small col between the main mountain and an outlying knoll to the right (1h50min). The final rough stepped path leads left from here to the summit (2h).

Although you descend the same way, here are some reminders: Go down to the col (10min), then the junction marked Connochia/Molare (15min). (From here, if you have time you might like to explore a little of the Connochia route, even as far as its summit with cross — returning to this junction). Descend about four zigzags to the junction marked with a CAI red/white V-turn: go left here (25min). Pass cliff/ handrails/rocky patch until the path starts to ascend gently. Ascend left up to the gravelly area (50min)

On reaching the road the quickest way back is to go left down the road for 300m, and then fork right onto the track which will lead you to the second radio station on the ridge top. Pass this on its left and continue down the ridge to the cable car. (Author 9/16)