Fitting CBE fridge fans

When this was discussed recently there seemed to be some interest in a thread on fitting this kit so here goes.

I bought the CBE kit from the Netherlands for Euro 54.50 inc delivery, it was a lot more from UK sites and the Dometic kit is around £80.

So in the kit you get two fans in a frame complete with temperature sensor, a control box with adjustable switch point relative to temperature and Auto and Manual settings.

The temperature sensing bit is in the middle of the fans in the picture below.

The fan assembly is pre wired to over a metre of cable with a small computer type plug on the end and this has to plug into the control module which just has a +ve and _ve lead about 0.5 metre long.

There are a couple of block connectors in the back of the fridge accessible from the lower vent so I decided that one of these would be OK for the power supply to the control module, this had to be extended as the wires on the module are only 0.5 metres, any other power supply would have been OK but this seemed to be handy.

The black diode that goes between the red wire (from Votronic AES) and the D+ in the above picture is the connection from the Votronic AES controller to switch to 12 volts when there is spare solar power, the diode stops the Votronic AES signal going to ground via the alternator windings which is the grey wire onto the D+. the switching wire to the fridge controls is the thin white one out of the block with the red wire and diode in.

I took the extension lead up to the top of the fridge and mounted the Block to connect the control module into. When I get some more Aluminium closure tape I will cover the wire as its quite warm up there.

I have drilled through the top of the Fridge enclosure for the cables and will mount the control module inside next to the microwave it will then be sealed with silicone. Next job is just to mount the fans and plug in but its dark and I dont trust myself up the ladders after a couple of glasses of wine or three.

So on a slightly "off topic" note some people believe that the fridge runs from the engine battery which I am sure it does in some vans BUT not all, the photo below is the battery voltages at 10pm so no solar and the fridge is on gas.

And then with the fridge switched to 12 volts and turned down to make it kick in.

This now shows 15 amps going from the leisure batteries and the voltage has dropped, the eagle eyed amongst you will notice that rather confusingly the engine (car) battery goes up either because the gas valve runs off the car battery or something completely different and even more confusing.

And YES I do think the volt readings on the panel are slightly optimistic

The car battery has gone up because your duel solar regulator has kicked in due to the 15A going out of the Leisure battery

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Its 10pm dark and anyway the solar only connects to the leisure batteries and charging the car battery is controlled via the CBE CSB2 or eddie vanbitz battery master, but any more suggestions gratefully accepted.

Whats the button for on the control panel, the one below the water pump switch (just being nosey)

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Ask me another Robert I might know the answer I know it's something optional that we don't have, will get the book out later I think it's to do with gas possibly heating the regulators when it's -40 outside.

Martin, I had better results by mounting the fans at the top vent sucking the air out. That way cold air was being pulled in at the bottom and the fans at the top draw out the hot air at the top. As for your power drain.... not sure without looking at my setup.

Regards, John
Life is like art. You have to work hard to keep it simple and still have meaning.

Martin, I had better results by mounting the fans at the top vent sucking the air out. That way cold air was being pulled in at the bottom and the fans at the top draw out the hot air at the top. As for your power drain.... not sure without looking at my setup.

Thanks for this Martin this much appreciated. One question for you as I am not too keen on hole cutting - how deep was the control panel? I know CBE also do a surface mounted version which may be more suitable for me. Very envious of your manual!

Thanks for this Martin this much appreciated. One question for you as I am not too keen on hole cutting - how deep was the control panel? I know CBE also do a surface mounted version which may be more suitable for me. Very envious of your manual!

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Hi

You could surface mount the control box that comes in the kit but I put a small hole behind it for the cables.

It is a thing of beauty, every fuse location, all equipment optional and standard, all drain down points, Alde air bleed etc etc, everything and in English.

I wonder what the new ones get.

Martin

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Same thing, A5 size and with a CD with the full manual as a PDF, 800 pages, which I had printed in A4 with ring binder from Docex for about £70 if I remember. So I have one at home and one on the van plus the PDF on the laptop, which is useful to search. As you say Martin a thing of beauty... albeit not as the Yankee I had which also had every single wire numbered and spreadsheet listed to task, wire gauge and position, which I thought was a standard in the MH industry. Krauts were in shock when I asked where it was on my Flair?

Hi Martin,
I have had my Brunner setup for 2 years now and this week it gave up the ghost. 12vdc at the fans but no turning! I think the washing of the van the other day with a pressure hose was a mistake, but the aire had a Gantry too so you could do the roof. Anyway I shall have to get a new one when I get back and I quite like the CBE control panel, more versatile than the Brunner so may put your solution in. How is it surviving?