The truck will immediately be spending time on my dyno and engine componentry taken apart. Would it be of interest to the community if we took the time to document some of the do's and not to do's regarding the truck so that everyone knows what to look out for? No crazy details, but the little things always kill you, broken bracket here, snapped plastic clip there, etc.

As a long time gas turbo guy, I must say that Ford's engineering work on the F150 is impressive.

Here's the first little bit of design brilliance. You can tell which trucks are Ecoboost because they'll have the front plate off to the side, why? Besides the fact that front plates are required in California?

So that nothing blocks that large front mount intercooler. Max efficiency when pulling long hills and keeping the charge temps down and keeping detonation away on 87 octane and maximizing power output all the time.

The intercooler is also what is referred to by the JDM crowd as V-mount. That is tilted, so that airflow can go over the intercooler without blocking the radiator.

My company is involved in turbocharger controls development and R&D. We have a project right now using the 3.5 Ecoboost. There's a bunch of stuff I can't disclose, but there's little bits here and there that may be useful to everyone.

I've also been seeing some questions on what oil to use. The turbos on these engines spin up to 200,000 RPM. I wouldn't skimp on the oil. Synthetic is best. I also wouldn't deviate much from their recommendations on oil grade. Putting in heavier weight oil, or some viscosity out of spec will not do the turbos well.

Very interested, I would like to know some of the trans temps when on the dyno or if you are pulling. Also since you got the dyno how about a test between 87 octane and 93 to see if there is a difference? As far as oil I looked for Motorcraft 5-30 full syn and could not find any. There regular semi syn has no unordinary rating on it. I have ran Amsoil for 12 years and so far they don't recommened any oil of theres for it and I don't see why because there semi 5- 30 looks like the same rating as Motorcraft.

The truck will immediately be spending time on my dyno and engine componentry taken apart. Would it be of interest to the community if we took the time to document some of the do's and not to do's regarding the truck so that everyone knows what to look out for? No crazy details, but the little things always kill you, broken bracket here, snapped plastic clip there, etc.

As a long time gas turbo guy, I must say that Ford's engineering work on the F150 is impressive.

Welcome, welcome, welcome! These will be some of the nice tech tips that we need to compliment our site and thank you for offering to share.

Having owned a 1987 TBird Turbo Coupe for 16 years and 155K miles (120K I put on) I am sold on Turbos. Closest thing to free power available.

As to oil I can attest to the bennefits of full synthetic in a turbo. Back in 1984 my dad bought a new Dodge 600ES turbo. If regular oil was used and car driven hard it would burn off a quart of oil in 1000 miles. Valvoline came out with Turbo formula oil and that helped.
In 1995 when I bought my Tbird the Valvoline Turbo Formula was no longer available but the regular All climate siad on bottle turbo approved. 1000 miles to a quart and car had 35K on it. I switched to full synthetic Mobil 1 and no consumption even with up to 5000 miles between a change.
The full synthetic is much more stable thus less burn off. I only put about 4000 miles a year on tghe Bird now and change the oil once a year with Valvoline Max life full Synthetic. I have zero oil consumption yet with 155K miles.

Also thicker oil is not always better, stay with recomended grade. 5W30

No truck yet. It is on the transporter and coming any day now. We got in some charge tubing assemblies. Nothing major to report, but here are a few things that impressed me.

Even though the tubing is plastic, I KNOW that tons of hours went into doing modelling and analysis on flow through those pipes to get the fuel economy they were looking for. Plus, they're lightweight, which helps MPG. After working on a VW/Audi recently, I have an appreciation for how well designed the flow is on these intercooler pipes. Not too many unnecessary bend radiuses to rob power or build up heat under towing.

They actually designed in some vortex generators in the inlet ducting to help the turbos. I wouldn't take these out, no matter what your drunk cousin says is a flow restriction. Max boost by 1500 RPM is no cake walk and these parts help. If you look closely, you see those lines halfway down the blade? That's some F1 work right there. Optimizing aerodynamic flow to help boundary layer separation. Bottom-line: There's tons of work that has gone in to make these trucks perform.

If you're inclined to work underneath the hood, just be careful of your knuckles breaking something like this loose. You'll either have to buy an entire pipe or thread it and put in a brass fitting.

It is hard to see it, but I can tell you that the quality of the silicone couplers that they are using are very good, 4-5 ply in many places. The clamps are also some of the be$t stainless steel constant tension worm clamps out there. They weren't skimping.

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