Made to Measure and Bespoke Tailoring

Do you know the difference?

Getting a tailored shirt is every Gentleman's dream. We all know the frustrations of going to a shirtmaker and having to pick something off the rack that more often than not, is not exactly what you were after. While we pride ourselves on being expert Shirtmakers, and have a ready to wear range that our customers know and love, we don't want our customers to compromise on the style, fit or feel of their shirts if they don't have to. We understand the difference a good shirt can make to an outfit and we think you should to. We sat down with the Head of our Bespoke and Made to Measure Department, Andrew Hudson to discuss the service in some more detail.

We offer a Made to Measure (also known as MTM for short) and Bespoke service for tailored Shirts.

What is the difference between MTM and Bespoke?

The difference between MTM and Bespoke is the pattern making. There is not much difference in the prices because we use the same cloth, buttons and linings. But with the MTM we have a series of templates based on three body fits, which is one more than what you are offered in our Ready to Wear Range: Classic, Fitted (Slim), Slim fit (Tailored). When I say Slim Fit it’s not only restricted on the chest and waist, but the arms are slimmer as well. It’s much higher up in the arms and its much more for a wiry shape.

For bespoke there is no body template. When you go for bespoke tailoring, what you’re saying is that none of the body fits will work for this customer. So, you are starting from scratch and designing a body shape for him.

We take measurements for everything. But with fully bespoke, you’re taking far more detailed measurements and style details. For example, someone might want a very fitted shape but might not like the shape of the shoulder, so we adjust the shoulder or the thickness on the arm can vary quiet a lot on customers and if they’re not happy with any of the MTM body fit templates then we might use the templates as a starting point. We are designing on a body that is his – Exclusive body shape.

With MTM you have a choice of three body size for each collar size, we try a body size on them. They don’t have to have the same collar size as the body size. For example, I really like 15.5 slim fit body but the collar on it is a bit tight, we cut the shirt and use the 15.5 body pattern but we’ll put a 16 collar on it and you get a choice of collar style and cuff style. We would take a measurement on the body length and sleeve length.

What is the process of MTM?

1. The customer comes into the store for a consultation. I ask the customer what he is using the shirts for? Is he wearing them for work? Is he wearing them for casual occasions? Is it for going out? You then an idea of what sort of style of shirt he wants, the fabrics, pattern etc. Then we take a couple of basic measurements: collar and chest size. You would get an idea of what body size he is.

2. You try on a body size. See how it fits on him. If it’s fine, all I need to do is take measurements on the sleeve and body length. We keep going until we find a size that the customer is happy with. Then I would take measurement on collar size. He would then choose what collar style he wants.

3. Then he picks his fabric. We make the shirt. The idea of having these try on samples is that he is having a shirt fitting before it’s made. If there are any doubts that the customer has, then we don’t go ahead.

4. It then takes 4-5 Weeks to make.

What is the process of Bespoke?

1. The customer needs to make an appointment with the fitter. He needs to see Kerry, our Shirt Cutter. He will make the pattern and measure the customer.

2. You talk about the use of the shirt, style, fabric etc.

3. More detailed measurements.

4. We would need an order of for 4 shirts and then he will use the detailed measurements and then make a paper pattern, which will make one sample shirt. Then the customer comes in for a fitting. We don’t do anything until the customers has taken it home, worn it and washed it at least three time because there is a shrinkage allowance on all these shirts. We need to know that the customer is perfectly happy. After the sample has gone through laundry process the customer uses then we can make the shirt.

5. We then start making the shirt.

Where are the MTM and Bespoke Shirts made?

We manufacture our Bespoke and MTM shirts in London.

How long does it take to get MTM and Bespoke Shirts made?

Both take the same amount of time to get made. It takes between 6 to 8 weeks to complete.

How much does MTM and Bespoke Shirt cost?

We start our MTM shirts from £215 and Bespoke is from £245. It is an investment.

Advantages and Disadvantages – Made to Measure

Advantages

Disadvantages

Near Perfect Fit

Choose Collar Style

Choose Sleeve Length

Choose Fabric

Quality Shirt

Invesment

Long wait

Advantages and Disadvantages – Bespoke

Advantages

Perfect Fit

Choose Collar Style

Choose Sleeve Length

Choose Fabric

Choose Pattern

Choose Colour

Choose Lining

Sample Shirt (Trial)

Quality Shirt

Disadvantages

Investment

Long Wait

3 Appointments

Here are a few questions that Mr Andrew Hudson always ask his customers:

What are you using the shirt for?

What are you wearing it with?

Think about what colour, collar style, body fit, and pattern you want?