A person who has never sang on stage wouldn't be able to enter into a conversation with those who have. He would be shown to have never done it VERY fast. Do you think I could fake a discussion on a skate boarding forum?

I know I come off as a know it all, it's my personality, sorry about that.

I wonder what you think when some youngster tells YOU about skate boarding. LOLOL, I'd love to see that. Yep, you do same amazing work, and you REALLY know a lot about this stuff. I have told you that over and over, you remind me of myself actually, I remember back when I thought I knew it all too and the old guys were out of touch. I sure am glad Bumgarner doesn't look at Righetti that way! Go Giants!

Brian

Me ,on the other hand...I'm actually fairly well balanced for someone in this biz...I have a chip on BOTH shoulders...

The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:

Just wanted to throw this out. I used these pads to strip a 67 Chevelle station wagon, the car had the original paint with one repaint on top. I used 3 of these pads to strip the entire car including all the jambs. They make a tremendous mess but just about everything does when stripping a whole car.
Ron

Just wanted to throw this out. I used these pads to strip a 67 Chevelle station wagon, the car had the original paint with one repaint on top. I used 3 of these pads to strip the entire car including all the jambs. They make a tremendous mess but just about everything does when stripping a whole car.
Ron

I'd be afraid of the heat created but if you did it, there you go. That was one massive job, you the man!

Another thing, the marks it leaves aren't deep but rough enough to where you'll have to go back over it to smooth it out to get a good hand feel. Obviously not very important if you epoxy then block but even then, I'm not sure I'd want to top coat such a scratch. Do like them for nooks and crannies though. and they clean up easily.

Oh yeah ,thats what I love about the little rol-locs after the paint is gone theres no grinding marks to fill ,just epoxy and paint the jambs who wants to waste days sanding jambs that were done in 2k build primer when you dont have too not to mention getting chips from a thick build up of primer when your all done...

And if you didn't know, they CAN remove some material if you want to. I was amazed when I was doing my brothers vintage Harley I removed the excess brass from the frame joints that were sweated together. A Roloc disc removed all the excess brass without any damage what so ever to the metal, surprised the heck out of me.

I believe we established that epoxy was best and that SPI might just be one of the best brands earlier in this thread but as good as epoxy primer is,its only as good as the metal prep The perfect paint job always STARTS with the metal prep....After all ,the best foundation is useless to build a house on if the ground isnt preped right...Thats why we always want to strip the old paint off when we really want something to look great,we dont know whats under that old paint or how well it was done.

The Following User Says Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:

I believe we established that epoxy was best and that SPI might just be one of the best brands earlier in this thread but as good as epoxy primer is,its only as good as the metal prep The perfect paint job always STARTS with the metal prep....After all ,the best foundation is useless to build a house on if the ground isnt preped right...Thats why we always want to strip the old paint off when we really want something to look great,we dont know whats under that old paint or how well it was done.

What you say DBM is Very true.
I was just saying the answer to his actual question.

I did not see where he asked how to prep the metal for the primer, although that is a very important step as you mention

What you say DBM is Very true.
I was just saying the answer to his actual question.

I did not see where he asked how to prep the metal for the primer, although that is a very important step as you mention

I didn't ask only because I didn't think to ask! You guys are great and I appreciate all the advice. I haven't done bodywork in quite a while, and I want it to be right! With that said, I ordered SPI Epoxi Primer and will keep you guys informed on how it goes! Please feel free to keep the advice coming though! Lol

do good metal work with planishing hammers, shrinking disks, plastic mallets. All that stuff takes time, experience, and to know how metal works(easy part. You can also use lead or synthetic lead to use as filler. Either that or you have a bondomobile, a primermobile, or a wavymobile. I'd love to do all my work with shrinking disks and true restoration tools but nowadays no one has the money to pay for those kind of jobs. My advice is, if you have the time and money and the car is gonna be worth while why not? If you don't get the perfect results you're looking for than it's that much less filler to apply, but you should be aiming for a straight finish to where you only need a primer to level it.

Anywho, we use 3m Platinum filler, various urethane/polyurethane primers, and sometimes we use z grip to fill over huge manholes.

even if the car is packed bumper to bumper with bondo ,the trick is for it NOT to look like it is...it takes experiance,lots of it....
I pefer Z-grip along with EZ sand finishing putty.One coat of z-grip fills just about anything I need sometimes two if I dont have time to do proper metal finishing...after I sand with 36 I quickly breeze over it with 80 then start with the ez sand putty and 80 grit all the way to 320 and a thin coat of primer ,it works great for me and quick,i like that part

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