Wave-Driven Spatial and Temporal Variability in Sea-floor Sediment Mobility in the Monterey Bay, Cordell Bank, and Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuaries

ABSTRACT

Wind and wave patterns affect many aspects of continental shelves and shorelines geomorphic evolution. Although our
understanding of the processes controlling sediment suspension on continental shelves has improved over the past decade,
our ability to predict sediment mobility over large spatial and temporal scales remains limited. The deployment of
robust operational buoys along the U.S. West Coast in the early 1980s provides large quantities of high-resolution
oceanographic and meteorologic data. By 2006, these data sets were long enough to clearly identify long-term trends
and compute statistically significant probability estimates of wave and wind behavior during annual and interannual
climatic cycles (that is, El Niño and La Niña). Wave-induced sediment mobility on the shelf and upper slope off central
California was modeled using synthesized oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN model,
sea-floor grain-size data provided by the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences in waves (heights,
periods, and directions) and winds (speeds and directions) between El Niño and La Niña months cause temporal and spatial
variations in peak wave-induced bed shear stresses. These variations, in conjunction with spatially heterogeneous
unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in predicted sediment mobility widely varying in both time and space.
These findings indicate that these factors have significant consequences for both geological and biological processes.