When I first heard that Barneys New York was teaming up with the dark lord of high fashion, Rick Owens, to create a cheeseburger, I was immediately fascinated. How? Also, why? I was deeply invested in experiencing this burger for myself, if only because I thought it was kind of funny that it even exists. I may not the kind of guy who can wear (or afford) Rick's drapey, dystopian clothing, but I am the kind of guy who can eat a damn cheeseburger when he sets his mind to it.

Barneys New York

So I set out to learn more, and to get my hands on the first "fashion burger" of my lifetime. And I learned a couple of things. First, that the burger is an add-on component to a Rick Owens retrospective at Barneys called Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman that traces the designer's 24 years in the business. And second, that Rick Owens knows his burgers. While stereotypes would have a Paris-based designer who dresses entirely in black subsisting on cigarettes and champagne, Owens ate a cheeseburger from his corner bistro every day for years when he relocated to Europe from his native L.A. That's functional, real-world burger experience right there.

So, there's context. And there's expertise. So, does the thing deliver? You're goddamn right it does. The Rick Burger (my name, not his) is freaking delicious. I ordered mine medium rare, as recommended. The patty (made from locally sourced, grass-fed, non-GMO, Animal Welfare-approved beef) arrived with that perfect mix of salty char on the outside and soft, meaty goodness inside. On top, a pile of onions caramelized in Dijon mustard, and a thick, melty layer of havarti cheese (also locally sourced, grass-fed, and non-GMO). All that is sandwiched between a brioche bun slathered in garlic mayo that actually tastes like garlic, which added a nice bit of bite as a counterpoint to the richness of the rest of the ingredients.

Barneys New York

Don't get me wrong, though: This burger leans into the richness. In my notes, taken after the first bite, is the word "RICH" in all caps. It's an indulgent piece of work, and taken too far, it could be exhausting. But it's not as messy as anticipated, a testament to the balance of ingredients (and the sturdiness of the bun). It's also not overwhelmingly large, which means that you're wrapping up your meal before the meat sweats set in completely.

Plus, the presentation invites you to take your time. The bun is charred with Rick's signature on the top, and wrapped in a black "edible ribbon" (it's licorice). You want to look for a bit before you dive in. The fries on the side ("pomme frites" if you ask the folks serving you) receive the same ribbon wrap. They are also, it should be noted, perfectly cooked—beefy steak fries that are crispy and perfectly salty, and fluffy in the middle. Get extra garlic mayo. Dip liberally.

Barneys New York

So, is a "fashion burger" a gimmick? Sure. But it's not just that. It's also a profoundly satisfying meal. And just like Rick did when he moved to Paris, I want to eat one every day, pretty much forever. Thankfully for my waistline, the burger isn't available that long—just until June 15, for $28 at Freds Downtown, inside the Barneys location in Manhattan's Chelsea neighborhood.

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