Description

A gem in the rough. Gradual to steeply overhanging blue, gold and white streaked limestone up to 250 feet high. New routes and retro bolted lines went in recently. See "Bigfoot Country Climbing" for info about the crag. The guide lists many routes drilled for Removable Bolts. Since these are no longer made, old routes with "R.B.s" for pro are being retro bolted with the permission of the first ascentionists.

Getting There

In Northern CA, take Hwy 36 from either Red Bluff inland, or near Fortuna from the coast.

Just east of the "no horse" town Forest Glen, near Hell Gate campground is Flume Gulch Road where Rattlesnake creek flows under Hwy 36.

Take Flume Gulch road 3 miles to the end of the pavement. For the Dream Wall, turn left onto 1S14D. Camp / park on an old logging landing about 1 mile down this road. The trail to the cliff starts at the back of the logging landing, in the trees. Follow this faint trail over the saddle to the right end of the Dream Wall. Walk right across the "catwalk" to the other walls of this sector.

The Bowling Ball is accessed by continuing along Flume Gulch Road past the junction with the road to the Dream Wall. Park at mile post 10. Hike down hill to the southwest from there 5 minutes to the crag. The crags are not visible from the parking area.

Slab to dihedral to slab to steep face. A little wandery but good fun. Watch out for the "butt crack" up high...it's a rope eater. Probably best to have a follower clean, to avoid stuck ropes....[more]Browse More Classics in CA

Has anyone climbed here this year? i am really itching to get on some real rock and this area seams the best chance to have a nice winter climbing session. Is there anymore info on this area someone would be willing to share?

Bummer that you had trouble finding the trail. There is actually a pretty well-defined trail to the main crag, but it is a little hard to find.

People have certainly been out there in the past 10 years, a handful of new routes went in last year. The climbing at the main crag ranges from good to ultra-classic on generally bullet limestone. I agree though, the random gear placements are kind of annoying, but that's how the majority of Humboldt climbing was originally developed.

The only thing the Caves really suffers from is lack of traffic. Five-star routes there that don't have a trace of chalk on them. That said, it's pretty much in the middle of nowhere. I'm still surprised, however, that the Bay Area folks haven't picked up on any of these spots.

Haven't wandered over to the Bowling Ball yet, so can't speak to that spot.