For the Interstate 35 traveler between San Antonio and Austin, it’s easy to write off New Braunfels as a pitstop at Buc-ee’s. But drive deeper west and you’ll find a downtown entertainment district picking up momentum, led by Krause’s Cafe, the beerhall king of the newcomers.

Krause’s isn’t really new. It’s an 80-year institution given new life early this year by Ron and Carol Snider, who added a 70-tap biergarten the size of an airplane hangar. For San Antonians, it’s one of the best restaurant daytrips in the book, with an excellent breakfast, lunch, dinner and bar.

I’ve eaten a lot of fried chicken in San Antonio (here are 19 favorites), but I had to drive to New Braunfels for breading like this, a uniform blonde crust with herbs, salt and black pepper that stuck, yielded and crumbled at exactly the right times.

This isn’t oompah-style German tourist kitsch. Krause’s is a beerhall and cafe that could be airlifted, survive and thrive in any city hungry for the convergence of Old World archetypes with New World style.

For more reasons to stop at Krause’s on your I-35 travels and what to order when you get there, including the best apple fritters I’ve ever eaten, see the full review on our subscriber website, ExpressNews.com.