This is my first post on this forum and I have to say that this series of threads is AWESOME!!!!!

Do I get to ask a question now?

Is there a limit on the number of veneers one can use on a given point? I realize thickness has something to do with it...

I think I may have answered my own question - Am I right to think that the more veneers one uses, the smaller the point material will end up?

Chris

You are correct. As far as amount of veneers, you can use whatever amount you wish. Very popular today to use asst size veneers in the same cue. On the short splice thread you can see an asstortment of .035 with .026 and also .035 with the paper .008.

I just wanted to add this as it was driving me crazy last night. There is truth to the idea that multiple veneers (as in plywood) adds some strength. However, the key to plywood is that those veneers are cross grain oriented. I admit I have never even seen the inside of a cuemakers shop, but from what I can tell, the veneer orientation in a cue is virtually parallel to the grain structure of the forearm. So I am not sure to what degree, if any, veneers add strength to a cue.

I just wanted to add this as it was driving me crazy last night. There is truth to the idea that multiple veneers (as in plywood) adds some strength. However, the key to plywood is that those veneers are cross grain oriented. I admit I have never even seen the inside of a cuemakers shop, but from what I can tell, the veneer orientation in a cue is virtually parallel to the grain structure of the forearm. So I am not sure to what degree, if any, veneers add strength to a cue.

Chris

That´s the reason why Burton Spain spoke about "CROSS GRAINING".So if the veneers would be glued together and "CROSS GRAINED" it would make sense.At least in my mind

Eric"h"

_________________Cues : Too many to list hereCases : Not that muchAlways open for Trades, Buying or Sellinghttp://www.billardpro.at

I've been using West system epoxy for laminating veneers since the 80's. I've been very happy with the consistent results I get, and there are a few things I do a bit differently:

1) Veneer pieces are not always a perfectly consistent thickness from one end to the other, so I always check with a Mitutoyo thickness gauge. If more than one piece varies from end to end I turn them (relative to each other) to avoid an accumulative "wedge" error in the finished sandwich.

2) For each surface I pour a glob of epoxy on the surface and then spread with a plastic playing card. I've tried brushes and rollers in the past, but the "squeegee" nature of the playing card seems to allow for the most consistent surface penetration. It's also faster than a brush.

3) In contrast to the teachings of Dennis Deikman - who in his videotape "teaching series" recommended using Elmer's glue and a couple of cinder blocks - I put my sandwiches between two layers of vacuum-clamping bag material, and then between two ground steel plates. At that point the entire assembly goes into a 12-ton press, and I squash the living shit out of it.

Other than those personal-preference points, Larry's video pretty much provides what I would consider the "A answer" to the veneer sandwich making question.

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