230GE - 240GD - Now 300GD

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Personally I think that if you can make them from a harder plastic it would be easy and better. As far as I know the new G300's rubber parts are a lot more plastic, or its harder than the old rubber, but I might be mistaken.

For reinforcement: Those galvanised roof-building hoops would work quite well to add a little stiffness, I'm just not sure if the size isn't too weak, but otherwise I wouldn't worry about the steel sticking out at the ends, just don't make it that long, it doesn't have to run all the way through. I believe the function of the steel is to support and stiffen the rails, not to ad structural strength against impacts.

Old trick for removing metal is to drown it in Jik for a few days. Iron rusts out. Heating speeds up the process a bit. The more metal exposed the better. (just a thought though dont think it'l work best here. Will try it with one of the buggered ones)

Just speak to Doug re temp gauge , he pulled a new wire through from the sender unit to the gauge and it solved his problem I think , also fuel gauge you may have to clean the sender unit in the tank , I have a socket to remove sender unit if you need to

Thanks Greg, let me secure the fusebox some time and see if that does anything to help. Just discovered it is completely loose when fitting cover... Both guages gave me correct readings but intermittantly drops, then rises. Not a major thing I think.

Failed roadworthy retest today. Ball joints/ tie rods got the blame, however went home and checked with crowbar. No movement any direction.
Going to give the test guy an earfull tomorrow or just play dumb and ask him to show me the movement again on his fancy machine.

Think he saw his old spraypaint and just failed it saying it is moving same way it was before injecting.