Car never seems to roll on right front and nothing we do seems to help the car to turn on corner entry. we stiffened the right front to a 500 and cranked about 20 rounds in the left rear and it got worse. Please Help.

mqdirtracer57

05-10-2010, 10:56 AM

What are the tracks conditions? How much stagger and panhard bar angle do you have?

helper

05-10-2010, 11:07 AM

track is wet and heavy to start with and dry slick at feature time. car does not turn in any track condition. stagger is 5 inches on rear 1 inch in front and panhard bar has hardly no angle

grt74

05-10-2010, 11:14 AM

on the brakes on the gas or just driving in but not on the gas and is it a stop and go track with tight corners

helper

05-10-2010, 11:21 AM

off the gas on the brakes, tried all brakes to rear, didnt help

big88fan

05-10-2010, 11:24 AM

I would say alot has to do with the springs up front but we run rocket chassis not sure how much difference there is between the two but we run a 3/8 semi bank that is usually dry slick and we run 600-650 lf 275-300 rf 175 lr and a rr 250 and thats our slick track set up now the slicker it is the lower the rf spring and the higher the lf this has really got our car going so far this year also if you are running a really limited motor I would go 25-50lbs lighter on the lift bar as well

grt74

05-10-2010, 11:33 AM

first thought 3 wheel brakes but im thinking you already tried that if your % is with the driver in go up 1 point also check you rf shock travel indicator if your not bottoming your shock out or more than 1"from bottoming out go to a 375 or 350 rt front but this will take some drive away you can also look at your rr bottom bar and go up a hole you could also look at the lr bottom bar and go up a hole but thats mostly on the gas and most of all check for binds!!! also check your 5th coil shock

Dirt2727

05-10-2010, 12:51 PM

250 lr and 200 rr springs and check to make sure your front brake calipers are releasing as they should...make sure the rods that go into the master cylinders has a lil play in em..and the pucs are goin back in when the rotor turns...........might find a simple prob easily fixed!!!

catgo22

05-10-2010, 09:14 PM

Proly no help but had a Shaw 4 bar car with similar problem. Went to stiffer RF like you but went other way on bite. Started out with 75lbs when tacky... And about 6 rounds to 150-170 later in nite. Everything else was pretty close to what you have. Turned in nice on enrty and did not throttle push. Also you probably already got it, but if the rearend is not squared or static rearsteered a bit, it'll do that.

Watts6

05-11-2010, 01:36 PM

First of all re-evaluate your front end geometry! These cars through the years say 02-06 were simply built to be piss tight. taking the time to map out the front end on your peice would be well worth your time to get things back into the ball park.

Something else you might consider even though everyone will prob. tell you not to do. Most of these cars came with large j-bar brackets with holes from the pinion all the way as far as up to 6" to right of the pinion. You might move your J-bar 3" to the right from standard or even try 6" if as I've even done. The front ends of those cars are so extreme that you have to do things to restore the balance in the car and moving the J-bar and rear roll center was something that worked.. Call it a crutch or whatever you wan't but if it works than it works.

Also be wary of the stiffer right front will always free you up. A lot of times a stiffer Rf won't do anything but make you tighter on the fuel especially if your track is wet early and your railing your stuff and not off the fuel much. 500 on that car prob. just shears the tire across the surface.

There's plenty of other simple things a guy can do to make a car turn and alot of those have already been mentioned above however i think its quite possible your fighting some issues that won't be overcome. There are a simple things on a race car that nothing will overcome if they are extreme ie. front end geometry, stagger, excessive bite etc. etc.

600 lf. 350 rf and 250-275 14" lr and225 rr works pretty good for my driving style. take alot of that bite out 2

bonehead

05-11-2010, 07:59 PM

even a slightly bent spindle or ball joint can totaly change your geometery, I spent half a season fighting a car that wouldn't turn no matter what we threw at it, wasted a bunch of time and money dragging a car to the track that went a lap down early in the A main, all because a bent spindle that couldnt be seen and hard to measure. JMO

fox1162002

05-11-2010, 10:27 PM

550lf 5/3 shock. 375rf 3/5 shock 225lr 8/2shock and 6/0 shock in front 225rr 3/5 shock. lr top bar in 2nd hole from top bottom bar 3rd hole from bottom. rr top bar 3rd hole from top rr bottom bar 2nd hole from bottom. this is a good starting point i run with my warriors. to free up the entry move rr bottom bar up a hole. to tighten up entry move rr bottom bar down. to free up all the way around move lr bottom bar up and move it down to tighten. we run 120lbs of bite with 52% left side and 51% rear. make sure your 4 bars are centered 18" top bars 14 1/2 bottom bars. after you square the bars up take the rr rods(top and bottom) and put a turn in them out to put sum lead in them hope this helps.

junebug

05-11-2010, 11:54 PM

my car was way to tight on entry and i softened the rr spring up and it helped a bunch

Darren28

05-13-2010, 05:35 PM

We run warriors my teammate has been driving warrior for 7 years email [email protected]

my car is the exact same as yours but we added under rails

Darren28

05-15-2010, 06:17 PM

Someone From NM emailed us with Questions we tried to return email but it's being rejected by the servers for some reason.. Shoot me a PM here please.

Car never seems to roll on right front and nothing we do seems to help the car to turn on corner entry. we stiffened the right front to a 500 and cranked about 20 rounds in the left rear and it got worse. Please Help.
There is a Teeter-Totter effect that is needed in these cars. Running on the hook changes some of the dynamics from how cars use to be run, ie stiffer RF will loosen entry on old school cars. On these newer style, "On The Hook" cars you need to go softer on the RF to free up entry, to enable the car to roll over better which will induce more dynamic roll steer, thus turning the car. I'd drop the RF to 375 and increase the LF to 550. This should work as long as there is nothing bent or broken on the car and your brakes are functioning properly. Also your LS percentage is too high, this will prevent the car from rolling up like it needs to.