Libya: essential information

More famous for its links with terrorism than tourism, Libya boasts one of the oldest pre-Saharan cities in the desert - and some of the best Roman remains of the entire Mediterranean basin. Yet only a few years ago visiting these historic sites was unthinkable

The country

Ten years ago, the idea of Libya being the next hot destination seemed ridiculous. The country's involvement in terrorist attacks on western targets, including the bombing of a PanAm flight over Lockerbie, prompted the UN and the US to impose sanctions and shun Libya's military dictator, Colonel Muammar Gadafy.

In the past few years, however, relations with the north African country have mellowed. Col Gadafy's decision to abandon weapons of mass destruction and cooperate with western governments led the UN to lift formal sanctions in September 2003 and the US to overturn a ban on its citizens visiting Libya. After 35 years of a strictly socialist economy, market forces are creeping in. Business is booming at Libya's first five-star hotel, the Corinthia.

There is little doubt as to Libya's potential for tourism. Sandwiched between Algeria and Egypt, the country has hundreds of miles of undeveloped coastline, year-round sunshine, a generous share of empty Sahara desert and rich archaeological sites. The latter give clues to the past lives of its original Berber colonisers and invading Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Turks and Italians. The oasis settlement of Ghadames is one of the oldest pre-Saharan cities and was made a World Heritage Site in 1988 on the strength of its traditional underground architecture. Historians also hail the Roman remains at Leptis Magna as the finest in the Mediterranean area.

Libya's capital city itself dates back to the first millennium BC. Little has changed since then, Tripoli is a lush garden of olive trees, palms, grapevines and orange groves at the western end of Libya's coast. South of the capital, the coastal plain gives way to the Akhdar mountains and the Surt Basin, which contains the nation's vast petroleum reserves. Oil is the main economic resource, although food processing, textiles, handicrafts and cement also generate revenue. If relations with the west continue to thaw, tourism will no doubt become increasingly important as visitors queue to soak up history, culture and landscapes long deprived to them.

Best sites

If you only do three things ...

Chill out in the cool dwellings of Ghadames. This oasis town was built by engineers with the aim of keeping its inhabitants cool. Be transported to ancient Greece at Cyrene. One of the best collection of Greek ruins in north Africa, at the beginning of the beautiful Jabalu l-Akhdar. Get wet in the centre of the Sahara at Ramlat Dawada's 11 lakes. One of the lakes changes colours between green, red and blue, probably due to algae and another is as salty as the Dead Sea.

News and current affairs

Language

Arabic, Italian and English are widely understood in big cities.

Climate

The best time to visit Libya is between November and March, when daytime temperatures are relatively mellow for a desert country. The Mediterranean moderates the climate along the coast. Average January (winter) temperatures range from 11C in the north to 17C in the south; corresponding figures for July (summer) are 28C and 38C. The coastal atmosphere is generally humid, while inland deserts can be as dry as dust. Precipitation ranges from 400mm to 500mm in the northern hills to less than 150mm in most of the south, and 25mm in the Libyan desert. Sabha in the Fezzan region is one of the most arid places on earth. In late spring (May through June) and early autumn (October), disruptive ghibli sandstorms roll in from the south, often lasting for several days.

Health

Polio, typhoid and hepatitis vaccinations are recommended. A small risk of malaria exists in certain areas. Diphtheria, rabies, bilharzia and cholera are also present. A vaccination certificate for yellow fever is required for visitors arriving from infected areas. Water in rural areas is untreated and not safe to drink. Take local advice.

Food

Libyan cuisine has Arabic, Mediterranean and Italian influences. Lamb, chicken, beef, beans, nuts, dried apricots, figs and unleavened bread are staples. Popular dishes include shakshouka (chopped lamb and vegetables in tomato sauce with an egg on top) and meat and vegetable stew served on a bed of couscous (granular semolina). People generally eat at home and often invite guests to join them. A bowl of perfumed water is sometimes passed around the table. Each person dips three fingers into the water as a form of ritual cleansing. Traditionally, people eat with the fingers of the right hand (the left hand is considered unclean and is not used). With alcohol prohibited, tea and coffee are popular drinks in Libya. Green tea is taken hot or cold with mint and sugar. Libyan coffee is served thick, black and sweet in small cups.

Currency

Libyan dinar (LD) = 100 dirhams. £1 = 2.5 LD. Import and export of local currency is prohibited. Visa and Diners Club have a limited acceptance.

Events

The Islamic (or Hijra) calendar is 11 days shorter than the western Gregorian calendar, so public holidays and festivals fall 11 days earlier each year. The main Islamic celebrations are Ras as-Sana (new year); Tabaski (a great feast commemorating the moment when Abraham was about to sacrifice his son, only to have God substitute a ram at the last minute); and Eid al-Moulid, (celebration of the prophet Mohammed's birthday). Ramadan is celebrated during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, commemorating the month when the Koran was revealed to Mohammed. The end of Ramadan, called Eid al-Fitr, is a month later, when fasting breaks amid much celebration.

The main secular holiday in Libya is Revolution Day which is marked with a week of public parades, rallies and events in September. Other public holidays include Troop Withdrawal Day (commemorating withdrawal of foreign troops), Expulsion of the Fascist Settlers Day (commemorating the deportation of thousands of Italians) and National Day (commemorating the overthrow in 1969 of King Idris I, which lead to the establishment of a republic). Date harvest festivals are held in various parts of the country during October.

What to buy

Bedouin handicrafts, such as rugs, wraps, and pottery. If kitsch is your thing, seek out a Col Gadafy watch or copy of his Green Book of political theories.

Time zone

GMT+2

Getting there

International flights to Libya have increased following the lifting of UN sanctions. British Airways, Royal Jordanian, Lufthansa, Alitalia, EgyptAir, Emirates, Turkish Airlines and Olympic Airlines now connect Tripoli with most Arab capitals and with Europe and the Far East. Although the land border with Chad is open, only Libyan and Chadian nationals are allowed to make the crossing. The same applies at the Sudanese border. If you're heading to or arriving from Egypt or Tunisia, buses and shared taxis are the only options.

Related literature

Political Culture in Libya, by Amal Obeidi Examines the political culture of the new generation of Libyans and the influence of state ideology.Expats: Travels in Arabia, from Tripoli to Teheran by Christopher Dickey An American expat’s window on Arabia portrayed through interviews with the individuals he meets on his travels as a Newsweek Reporter.With Rommel's Army in Libya by Janos Kubassek (introduction), Laszlo Almasy, Gabriel Francis Horchler (translator) Almasy spent most of his adult life exploring large tracts of the Libyan Desert and became one of the foremost experts on this part of the world. This book is based on his diaries.