Jenn-Air dishwasher dw760w has no power and standing water

The electrical panel is good in the garage, there is no GFI blown in the kitchen, there is power to all other electrical outlets in the kitchen, but I can't get to the power for the dishwasher. (I will if I need to - it's behind the unit) The dishwasher just stopped working. I didn't notice standing water in it when it died 2 months ago, I think it was dry - I remember the gel pack falling out of the door and onto the floor while I unloaded it ('cuz it wouldn't turn on) but now it's full of nasty brown water in the bottom.

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Anonymous

You think that liquid nails would be too permanent, so you're wondering if I can suggest an adhesive that would 1) not react adversely with the white paint on the glass panel 2) would not dissolve the black rubber-like adhesive (which has let go) that's between the glass panel and the small brackets, and 3) would be strong enough to hold the glass panel, which is where the DW handle/pull is located, and which is subject to stress caused by constant opening and closing.

Different adhesives are available in diferent parts of the country and they are all subject to proper instalation. So I'm going to sugest some guide lines. 1) You're going to have to do a little leg work. You're going to talk to different people in different hardware stores telling them about your three requirements. You'll be surprised at the varying degrees of knowledge. Don't argue, just take notes. 2) Once you've settled on a product it's time to test it. Find a small piece of glass and aply it to metal useing the adhesive. After drying you can tell if it is satisfactory. If not go back to no.1.
3) Once you're happy with the test find a pair of C-clamps and two blocks of wood. Aply adhesive, then using the wood blocks to protect the glass use the C-clamps on each side. Be carefull not to overtighten. Do this with the door horizontally. Just watch the adhesive, when it starts to squeeze out, stop. Make sure the clamps are aplyed evenly. Be carefull. Good luck.

There are two possibilities here. First of all make sure the latch is adjusted to close the door tight. IF not, you can adjust it using a screw driver. next, you may have to replace the gasket as these do wear out.

1. turn breaker off to diswasher. 2. remove bottom access cover. 3. remove cover over electrical connection box on right side. 4. hold each wire nut connector and firmly tug on one wire at at time to make sure none of the wires pull out of the wire connecor nuts. A loose connection here is more common than you might think.
If those are all OK, turn breaker back on and make sure you have power there. (120 volts black to white) If that was OK, then check door latch switch inside door at the top center and wires passing through door at the bottom of the door.

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Before looking into your built-in dishwasher as the problem, check your main electrical panel to see if you have tripped a circuit breaker. If not, you may have tripped a GFI receptacle located on or around your kitchen counter. If so, reset it! Then try the dishwasher. However, if this IS the problem, this may become an ongoing problem. I agree with (and its code) having a GFI breaker in your kitchen. But what I don't agree with is when the contractor/electrician who installed this, didn't take into consideration that when these GFI's are put in series with other receptacles (for added protection) in the kitchen, they trip more easily when plugged in with certain appliances because of the motors (eg. refrigerators, dishwashers, etc.) in them. The GFI's sole purpose is for protecting you around the sink where there's running water. It trips on milliamps so you won't get electrocuted around the sink. Also, if you have other appliances running at the same time the dishwasher's running, makes them more susceptible to trip. So in conclusion, first check for power. Second, check for GFI breaker (or vice versa). I believe you should find your problem here. If so, reset it and wait to see how and when this does it again. GFI breaker's are sensitive breakers. They tend to wear out before a regular outlet (receptacle) does. Not knowing how long and old this (GFI) receptacle is, I'd replace that if it happens more frequently. This usually does the trick. I hope it's not your built-in dishwasher. If so, feel free to contact me again, and I'll help you with that too. Good Luck with this, and I hope you get everything back in working order. Take care, Jim

If your dishwasher is on a wall switch, someone may have shut it off, Your dishwasher could be pluged into a Daisy chaned GFI, check all your GFI in the kitchen and make sure none are triped. The home Fuse Box, make sure the braker is not triped.

After all that has passed, there is a power conection box under the machine. Make sure the power is off from the breaker box or the machine is unpluged before inspecting under the machine or trying to repair this machine.

It appears that you have lost one half of your power. That is you no longer have 220 volts but do have 110, enouch to power the electronic ignition. I would check the circuit breaker first to see if it is sending power on both hot wires or just one.

Water-inlet valveThe water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.

Float switchThe float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it.