I have a 64D7000. First I tried Tivo's settings, then the average settings. I think my picture looks pretty good, but I fired up the Pixar set up wizard on Up and my TV was "failing" both the brightness and contrast tests. The bars that were supposed to be barely visible were nearly invisible, and simple tweaking of the brightness/contrasts (i.e., a few 'notches' up and down) didn't fix the issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to easily tweak my settings to help with these tests? I am thinking of doing a factory reset, setting my TV to movie mode, and just tweaking on my own until I at least pass those two tests.

I have a 64D7000. First I tried Tivo's settings, then the average settings. I think my picture looks pretty good, but I fired up the Pixar set up wizard on Up and my TV was "failing" both the brightness and contrast tests. The bars that were supposed to be barely visible were nearly invisible, and simple tweaking of the brightness/contrasts (i.e., a few 'notches' up and down) didn't fix the issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to easily tweak my settings to help with these tests? I am thinking of doing a factory reset, setting my TV to movie mode, and just tweaking on my own until I at least pass those two tests.

If you are going to try calibrating on your own, check out this thread:

I got the AVA709 on a USB drive ready to go for calibration after break-in. But can someone point me in the right direction as far as what settings to put the D7000 in and what slides to use for break in?

I got the AVA709 on a USB drive ready to go for calibration after break-in. But can someone point me in the right direction as far as what settings to put the D7000 in and what slides to use for break in?

There are no settings for any break-in (aging) slides. There is no need at all to use any slides.

I've done a quick cal of Cal-Day mode on my display, copied the settings over to Movie mode and compared the results. I was interested in the custom color setting since it is common to both. All other controls 2-pt WB, 10-pt WB, etc. can be set individually.

I didn't try flattening out the gamma curves just yet, but gamma in Cal-Day mode is lower than movie mode. Average gamma = 2.24 (top, movie) and 2.09 (bottom, Cal-Day) This is with gamma=-1 (movie) and -2 (Cal-Day) and remember that lower settings of gamma on this display increases gamma.

WB and color temperature were very close between the two modes but this can be adjusted separately for the two modes anyway.

Here are the results of the first calibration of my 64D7000. My i1 LT profiled to my i1 Pro was used. (The grayscale and gamut were checked from 20 to 100% using the i1 Pro alone. The data were essentially unchanged.)

I have accrued about 100 hours on the TV. Another run will be performed in a week or two from now.

I tested the results using values of Cell light at 20 and Conrast at 100. There was no significant change from my settings. So feel free to adjust these to suit your viewing.

I've done a quick cal of Cal-Day mode on my display, copied the settings over to Movie mode and compared the results. I was interested in the custom color setting since it is common to both. All other controls 2-pt WB, 10-pt WB, etc. can be set individually.

I didn't try flattening out the gamma curves just yet, but gamma in Cal-Day mode is lower than movie mode. Average gamma = 2.24 (top, movie) and 2.09 (bottom, Cal-Day) This is with gamma=-1 (movie) and -2 (Cal-Day) and remember that lower settings of gamma on this display increases gamma.

WB and color temperature were very close between the two modes but this can be adjusted separately for the two modes anyway.

Here are the results of the first calibration of my 64D7000. My i1 LT profiled to my i1 Pro was used. (The grayscale and gamut were checked from 20 to 100% using the i1 Pro alone. The data were essentially unchanged.)

I have accrued about 100 hours on the TV. Another run will be performed in a week or two from now.

I tested the results using values of Cell light at 20 and Conrast at 100. There was no significant change from my settings. So feel free to adjust these to suit your viewing.

Hey Larry thanks for the post, I just accessed Cal Day and Night settings and input your calibration settings into my Cal Day mode on my 64D7000. It looks great. The only thing im changing though is the Sharpness. When sharpness is at 0 to me it looks kinda blurry sometimes. Also Would bumping up the Cell Light mess with the calibration?? Or can i change brightness and Cell light?

Hey Larry thanks for the post, I just accessed Cal Day and Night settings and input your calibration settings into my Cal Day mode on my 64D7000. It looks great. The only thing im changing though is the Sharpness. When sharpness is at 0 to me it looks kinda blurry sometimes. Also Would bumping up the Cell Light mess with the calibration?? Or can i change brightness and Cell light?

As I said, feel free to change cell light and/or contrast. Brightness, on the other hand, was set with the AVSHD 709 disk -- probably increasing or decreasing it a tick or two shouldn't cause any great change.

If the picture appears too dark, maybe you need a lower gamma for your viewing conditions. My settings put gamma at 2.25. Increasing the gamma control from zero to one will reduce the average gamma to about 2.10 - 2.15.

EDIT: I just read zoyd's post where he says that the inherent gamma in CAL day is lower than that in Movie for the same gamma setting.

I've only had the 64d8000 for a week now and am watching in just normal mode with numbers lowered until the break-in period. I just noticed while watching the news that the picture got a bit dimmer all of a sudden. At first I couldn't be sure so I had my wife watch an episode of The Mentalist that we just watched the night before and she agreed that the picture was not as bright. So now my question is, does the tv have some sort of auto adjustment setting to the room lighting or has anyone else noticed this happen to them to? Perhaps tvs do this during break-in? Just hoping I don't have a defective tv.

I've only had the 64d8000 for a week now and am watching in just normal mode with numbers lowered until the break-in period. I just noticed while watching the news that the picture got a bit dimmer all of a sudden. At first I couldn't be sure so I had my wife watch an episode of The Mentalist that we just watched the night before and she agreed that the picture was not as bright. So now my question is, does the tv have some sort of auto adjustment setting to the room lighting or has anyone else noticed this happen to them to? Perhaps tvs do this during break-in? Just hoping I don't have a defective tv.

I am having the same issue.I haven't been able to find anything on it. I called Samsung and all they told me to do was turn off the eco sensor and that should fix it, but it didn't fix anything.

I've only had the 64d8000 for a week now and am watching in just normal mode with numbers lowered until the break-in period. I just noticed while watching the news that the picture got a bit dimmer all of a sudden. At first I couldn't be sure so I had my wife watch an episode of The Mentalist that we just watched the night before and she agreed that the picture was not as bright. So now my question is, does the tv have some sort of auto adjustment setting to the room lighting or has anyone else noticed this happen to them to? Perhaps tvs do this during break-in? Just hoping I don't have a defective tv.

Hey zoyd, have you updated your settings now that you've got a few more hours on your TV yet? just wondering..

Sorry, not yet. I've been toying around with Cal-Day mode and haven't decided yet which will be my primary setting. I've also noticed some crushing of blacks on medium APL scenes which I think is from the (non-defeatable) dynamic contrast in these displays. I have done a calibration which achieves a flat gamma using a constant APL pattern to compensate for this and it looks pretty decent so far, but I haven't viewed enough dark material to see if it screws up there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

EDIT: I just read zoyd's post where he says that the inherent gamma in CAL day is lower than that in Movie for the same gamma setting.

Don't know if this holds for D7000 or not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by csr369

I am having the same issue.I haven't been able to find anything on it. I called Samsung and all they told me to do was turn off the eco sensor and that should fix it, but it didn't fix anything.

yes, the only auto-contrast would come from the eco-solution or the motion adapted lighting setting.

My one gripe about the Samsung Plasma models is that there appears to be a reddish cast in the default settings. It is especially noticeable in images of things that should be white.

1. Can this reddish cast be removed within the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings?
2. Is it easy to do on the D7000 as well as the D8000?
3. Are the settings easily saved so they can be accessed at the touch of a button?
4. Are there any downsides to changing the settings?

My one gripe about the Samsung Plasma models is that there appears to be a reddish cast in the default settings. It is especially noticeable in images of things that should be white.

1. Can this reddish cast be removed within the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings?
2. Is it easy to do on the D7000 as well as the D8000?
3. Are the settings easily saved so they can be accessed at the touch of a button?
4. Are there any downsides to changing the settings?

To remove errors in white balance you either need to get your display calibrated (or learn how to do that yourself) or try some of the settings in this thread and tweak those. The CAL modes are just places to store your calibrated settings.

To remove errors in white balance you either need to get your display calibrated (or learn how to do that yourself) or try some of the settings in this thread and tweak those. The CAL modes are just places to store your calibrated settings.

Ok, so I assume that I can store one for day and one for night. Are all the same settings available on both the D7000 and the D8000?

Ok, so I assume that I can store one for day and one for night. Are all the same settings available on both the D7000 and the D8000?

The settings posted so far in this thread apply to movie mode only. There are a couple of differences between movie and the CAL-D/N modes. One is in the way gamma behaves, gamma is lower in the CAL modes. Also, there is a difference in color (mainly red) and since they share the custom color space if you calibrate for one mode there will be errors in the other. This all applies the D8000, D7000 is not confirmed to do this yet. I am working on settings for D/N mode but it is proving hard to get a decent gamma.

EDIT: Here are the Day/Night settings I am currently using, posted on 1st page as well.

Hey guys,
my 59d7000 is coming in on Wednesday and I'm looking forward to calibrating it with my DTP94 and hcfr. I'm a little confused as to how cell light and contrast differs. I've only calibrated sets with a contrast setting. I've read that a lot of people just set their sell light at 20 and that might also help with getting brightness pops/dims. Then in this threat we have anywhere from 15-20.

Can those of you who have calibrated their sets tell me why you have chosen a particular cell light value over another. Seems like cell light would be your starting point along with contrast to set your initial brightness but I'm a little confused as to their difference and how they interact with each other.

Can those of you who have calibrated their sets tell me why you have chosen a particular cell light value over another. Seems like cell light would be your starting point along with contrast to set your initial brightness but I'm a little confused as to their difference and how they interact with each other.

Hi,

Not knowing what cell light means technically I set peak white using cell light and contrast so as to allow room for additional adjustments if necessary that's why mine are < 20. Contrast works as you would expect, just like a color gain you have to adjust brightness after adjusting contrast while cell light does not appear to affect the low end. My theory is that cell light is related to the number of sub-fields active for each pixel. If that is the case it might be best to just set it at 20 to utilize the full range of levels available for each pixel but I haven't investigated that yet.