In this week’s episode of i-D podcast, Fash-ON Fash-OFF, we ask what’s changed in the world of luxury fashion, and who it is that's leading the charge.

Let’s start with a bit of a recap then. It feels like years ago now, but before the men’s and couture shows we were looking forward to Raf returning to Paris, Martine Rose back on the catwalk in London, Per Gotteson’s first solo catwalk show...

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Of course, we also had the small matter of Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones starting their new jobs. Two of the biggest names in menswear taking over two of the industry’s biggest houses in Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme. It was, quite easily, one of the Most Anticipated Fashion Weeks™ in recent memory, right? Not least because, as i-D Deputy Editor Felix Petty put it, while “Kim knows his way around an atelier by now ... Virgil’s appointment offers more uncertainty in the world of historic maisons”.

In his shownotes Virgil defined luxury as: “A label determined by values, codes and qualities, its use and definition were the privilege of a few until a new generation conquered its dominion and shifted the paradigm for good.” So did his debut represent a shift in attitudes across the entire industry? Or did the subsequent couture shows -- traditionally fashion’s most conventionally-minded world -- offer a competing vision?

On this week’s episode of i-D’s fashion podcast, Fash-ON Fash-OFF, we’re discussing how the recent men’s and couture shows redefined the idea of luxury. We ask what’s changed and who’s leading the charge. We hear from fashion writer Osman Ahmed on his thoughts from couture. And we focus in on what John Galliano is doing with Maison Margiela’s “Art-Is-Anal” project – that’s his pronunciation not ours.