A fresh twist on classics: Old meets new with British design collaborations

British design is best known for both eye-popping innovation and heritage, so it’s not surprising that some of the most striking launches this season have come from partnerships of the two.

Floral delight: Fred Perry and Richard Nicoll’s SS12 collection

The flags are unfurling and the kettle is on: with this year’s Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics, the tag Made In Britain has never looked so shiny.

Fred Perry and Richard Nicoll; Globe-Trotter and Sophie Hulme; Liberty and B Store; Farrell and Christys’ – they are all perfect examples of young and old brands coming together to exchange knowledge and expertise.

‘There were challenges: redesigning the way our handle is fitted on to the case using Sophie’s brass fixings was, for our charmingly antiquated factory, a considerable feat as our handle design has not evolved in this way since 1897.’

However, Bott loves the result. ‘Our traditionally masculine slim attache case has been transformed into a feminine, luxury object, an elegant combination that is distinctly Sophie Hulme and Globe-Trotter,’ he says.

Richard Martin, Fred Perry’s director of marketing, also revels in the creative exchange that takes place in a collaboration. ‘It’s how a designer works their own creative DNA into classic Fred Perry heritage streetwear garments,’ he says.

Get a grip: Globe-Trotter and Sophie Hulme created a beautiful luxury case

The brand has worked with talent as diverse as Amy Winehouse and Comme des Garçons. Nicoll designed the SS12 Women’s Laurel Wreath collection and, taking inspiration from the Teddy girls of the 1950s, he’s produced shimmering lurex tops and printed silk dresses.

Balancing aesthetics is key. ‘The main challenge of any collaboration is to combine the handwriting of both brands in a sympathetic, complementary way,’ says Stephen Ayres, Liberty’s head of fashion buying.

‘The end product has to appeal to a customer from both brands and expose them to something they may not have seen before.’

‘This collaboration exposed Liberty prints to them in a different interpretation to how these customers would have seen our prints previously.’

B Store also teamed up with inventor of the duffle coat Gloverall to create a range of outerwear. ‘We had to focus on B Store’s signature aesthetic for creating something original,’ says B Store co-founder Matt Murphy.

‘Gloverall has an amazing heritage. We could not improve their core product, so we decided to create something new with a taste of the brand’s heritage.’

Often, despite the difference in age, brands share more in common than expected. Ben Dickens is head of design at Farrell, the menswear company co-founded by Robbie Williams and based on the life of his grandfather, Jack Farrell. Next season, it teams up with hatmaker Christys’.

‘On paper, Farrell is a young company but our ideals and ethos are rooted in Jack Farrell,’ says Dickens. ‘This has given us a strong heritage base and archive. The alliance of these two brands has resulted in a product with a strong sense of Britishness, history, craftsmanship and a respect for tradition and quality.

‘We always said, if Farrell were ever going to collaborate, we would only work with brands that are the best at what they do. Expertise and perfection are ingrained in Christys’ and are part of Farrell’s DNA. We hope this collaboration will amplify that message.’

Increasingly, more heritage brands from different specialities are working together. Liberty recently launched a collaboration with Dr Martens.‘It’s one of my favourite collaborations,’ says Ayres. ‘We were interested in working with them as they are a British brand with a very unique signature, just like Liberty – but that’s where the similarity ends. Dr Martens has a very tough, youth-centric vibe at its core, which creates a dichotomy with the delicate, slightly whimsical nature of the Liberty print and makes an interesting discord.’

Dr Martens and historic casualwear company Sunspel ( www.sunspel.com/dr-martens ) already had a connection before they chose to create a limited-edition polo shirt together. ‘Various subcultures have often worn polo shirts with their Dr Martens,’ say Simon Jobson, Dr Martens global marketing director. ‘Choosing to work with Sunspel was easy.’

Sunspel chief executive Nicholas Brooke is more than happy with the results. ‘By making these small changes, we created something with a different, more fashion character,’ he says. ‘This will help us massively as we move Sunspel forwards.’

Everyone remains positive about the place of tradition and craftsmanship in the future of British fashion. ‘Outside of young designers, it’s important we showcase British heritage in Britain,’ says Murphy. ‘The experience and history of these brands will have a more successful commercial effect internationally.’

‘There’s a reason why we look to our grandfathers for modern-day sartorial inspiration,’ adds Dickens. ‘Not because we want to dress like them but because it instills us with pride, respect, good manners and humour.’

Bott envisages a full-scale return to British luxury. ‘I see a British version of the LVMH group, with globally recognised British brands and standalone stores worldwide,’ he muses. ‘With the right vision, people and, of course, investment, it will happen. One day.’