He gets to watch being prepared and then eat, lucky man, some of the garden of delights on offer inc. lamb sweetbreads with peas, ox-heart with beets and horseradish, and the restaurant’s signature dish, roasted bone marrow salad. My mouth waters every time I see the latter…

It’s only 7 minutes long but it gives a great flavour of just how genius is the work that Fergus — and his team — pioneered and continue to carry on and why, rightly, he is so idolised by some of the best chefs in the world…