How To Get A Perfect Exposure Every Time With This Easy To Implement Camera Tool

This is How I Get Flawless Images In Camera And Eliminate 90% Of My Post Processing

Beginning photographers often make a mistake of trusting the LCD screen of their camera too much. Those screens are never completely accurate when it comes to the exposure. Most of the time they are much brighter than the image actually is, and if you trust the screen you’re going to end up with a truckload of images that need heavy post processing.

When I first got my professional DSLR it was exactly like that for me. I changed the display settings for the worse, as I didn’t think I would need this feature. Obviously I was wrong – and my images got better right away when I changed the settings back.

I enjoy some of the articles but it is ANNOYING AS ALL HELL to always have to click on the next page link just because it exposes more advertisements for you to make money. I am close to deleting my like from your page…

histogram is great for posed subjects or scenes that don’t change, but it’s not very helpful capturing a one-time situation. bracketing your exposures,especially if you have a fast frame rate, can help in those situations

It has never change since the first photo was taken. It is called the right exposure. It may be old school but it is what works. It is called physics. By the way it doesn’t matter how much post editig you do. If the shot is crap it is crap ! ! !

A histogram that’s “in the ballpark” is always a good start. But, if you want a perfect picture, it’s almost always going to involve some post-processing, whether it’s color, contrast or control of highlights and shadows.
At the risk of dating myself, I started out in photography with film. Using color transparency material was probably the best way to teach myself the importance of of good exposure.

However, if you are photographing a dark skinned person in a black tuxedo, and it is outdoors at night (what I did a few weeks ago) the histogram weighed heavily to the left, and almost nothing on the right (highlights). The sample photo of the lady with the camera is another example of why this doesn’t always work. Though the histogram showed details lost in the whites, what’s more important, the lady’s face, or the clouds? I think we’d all agree that her face is of primary importance for exposure.
If you used your histogram technique on that image, you would have details in the highlights, but her face would be very dark.

To take your exposure issues, (and white balance) to a whole new level of excellence, do a custom WB and expose using a gray card, or similar device. That really speeds up my workflow. I can edit 200 portraits in about 15 minutes (in Adobe Lightroom).

I learned photography with film 40 years ago, used a light meter, this is useless . Lear the basics and this will not be an issue. Author states she started photography in 2009, she has so much to learn, won’t learn with auto features, try manual focus and exposure.

Histogram is important… very important. But, this video keeps emphasizing “proper exposure”; there is no such thing. One does not want to shoot so that the histogram is primarily in the middle. One should shoot so that the histogram is where you want it to be; this may or may not be the middle. That “proper exposure” concept always gets newbies off to a poor start.

I find that you can hardly ever go wrong spot metering in Manual mode, and this is what I teach all of my students. Yes, you’re forced to make a decision with each shot to select a shutter speed and aperture appropriate to the situation, but then isn’t that what photography is all about?