The wiring shouil have connector plugs on them. make a note which plug fits into whick socket. You havent given module number but I am guessing you can either see the motor on the top left or a heater box.

Once these connectors are removed you should be able to remove the back cover.

1 Suggested Answer

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.goodluck!

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Hi,the
problem you are encountering is as a result of the fact that the
thermostat which regulates the cooling temperature in the fridge/freezer
is bad hence there is no regulation of the cooling temperature in the
fridge/freezer section, hence the food in the fridge freezes up.

The solution is to replace the thermostat of the unit,here is how you go about it;

1.You have to disconnect the fridge from the power source.
2.Locate the thermostat at the bottom of the unit,at the top left corner above the condenser.
3.Now you need to locate the wire ends or wire harness and unplug them.4.Replace the thermostat,reconnect it back,put the back cover back and you have completed the job.
Take care of yourself

Pat, Have you found a solution to this yet? I have got exactly the same fault today ! Having taken the top & left side of the dryer off, I found what looks like a broken drive belt - not the main drum drivebelt which is fine, but a shorter one (about 18cm diameter loop) with no obvious place for it to have come from. Any clues would be appreciated. Dave (drdave@fsmail.net)

Problem was a stuck float in the small water reservoir to the rear left of the unit.. Remove top and left hand side panel. Small reservoir can be seen at the bottom left. Remove small screw and slide off the cable assembly above. You should then see into the reservoir and the float. Clean float and reservoir and reassemble.

sounds like you fried a heat element wire could have a lint build up problem ck and clean ventilation system if cabinet has alot of lint inside chances are that is the smell if you do not find burned wiring if alot of lint is present could have fried the thermal fuse and or limit switch

Hi
You need to remove the left side panel, this is the side where the drain container is, once removed you will see the drain pump with two pipes coming from it, remove the pipes and top cover, disconnect the wiring, remove the pump unit with the clip, clean the float unit and pump, also remove the congealed mess in the water trouth as this is what holds the float up and makes the machine think the drain container is full.
I bet you will find this will cure the problems you are having, it did with mine.

Hi
just reversed the doors in 15-20 mins. It worked for me. You do need to be a competent DIYer to do this.
If in doubt, do now't. Get in an engineer

Disconnect from mains (obviously)
Remove top using 7mm nut driver/spanner
Remove 2 cross-head screws holding the door - Door will come away from dryer.
Remove 2 cross-head screws holding the white top and bottom blanking plates
pull out the switch blanking plate
Locate the PINK wires connecting the switch/latch mechanism inside the dryer at the top. This will be taped to a blue wire.
Unscrew the 2 smaller cross-head screws holding the latch/switch assembly whilst holding the pink wire to stop the mechanism dropping inside the dryer.
Pull up the latch mechanism and unravel the black tape holding it to the blue wire.
Drop the latch assembly down the lefthand side of the dryer and refit using the 2 small cross-head screws.
Retape to the blue wier and feed the PINK wires through the plastic retainers.
Fit the white blanking plates to the RIGHT handside of the door opening.
Swap the hinges and the switch latch on the door (don't lose the spring !!!, refitting the hinge blanking plates(ease these out with a small flathead screwdriver covered witha bit of insulating tape to avoid damage.)
Fit the door using the 2 cross-head screws you have left
Refit the top.

Connect to the mains and switch on to the sound of £80 you have just saved yourself !!

I had this problem, the washer/dryer stopped working while in the drying cycle and displayed e10 message. It was caused by a faulty three-way inlet valve. The solenoid controlling flow to dryer condenser proved to be open circuit. Pulled washer out from under counter top, unplugged, removed top cover, tested solenoid circuits with ohm meter and found one solenoid was faulty. The filter going into the unit was clear. Replaced whole three way component with one ordered on Internet and all now works fine. Noticed that during drying cycle, water to condenser is constantly being switched on and off, explaining why the green condenser solenoid is the one that wears out first.