Cookbook Critic: A summer of delicious grilled meals in one cookbook

This is the 14th cookbook from Cheryl and Bill Jamison with four of their previous offerings being James Beard Award winners. This one could be the next.

"100 Grilling Recipes You Can't Live Without" is overflowing with variety in foods, flavors and appeal. There are recipes for 21 varieties of meat, fish and fowl, plus 18 vegetarian appetizer/main dish recipes and eight dessert offerings. There are also recipes for pizzas and tacos. Recipes range from basic to more involved (pork tenderloins filled with figs, bacon and charred onions), including a detailed chapter on rotisserie cooking.

The book clearly explains how grilling (direct heat, uncovered) coaxes the most flavor from the food by caramelizing the surface and preserving the moisture within. If the lid is closed, the food is being baked, not grilled. By following their instructions, the Moroccan chicken wings were perfectly cooked.

Each of the 10 recipes I prepared had something to make it stand out, which satisfied not only my fussy foodie friends but also those with simpler tastes. For example, the grilled cheese sandwich on a stick — cubes of bread and halloumi cheese separated by lemon pieces on a skewer — was super simple yet sophisticated.

This could be the one cookbook you need for a whole summer of delicious grilled meals.

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Slide one cheese cube one bread cube and one lemon chunk onto each skewer. Repeat with a second trio of cubes on each skewer. Brush the kebobs with the olive oil.

Arrange the skewers on the grill so that the handles angle away from the fire. Grill, uncovered, for 5 to 7 minutes, turning on all sides, until the bread it toasty and the cheese is browned in spots and soft. Transfer to small plates or a platter, sprinkle paprika over the top, and serve immediately.

Moroccan chicken wings

Serves 4 to 6

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons harissa, or more to taste

1 teaspoon packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon kosher salt or coarse sea salt

2¾ to 3 pounds chicken wings or 2½ to 2¾ pounds wing drumettes

1½ tablespoons minced fresh mint

1½ tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

Whisk together the marinade ingredients in a bowl. Set aside about one-third of the marinade to use for basting.

With a cleaver or other large knife, remove the bony tips from the wing ends. Then cut each wing in half at the joint. (If using wing drumettes, no cutting is needed.) Place the wing sections in a large zipper-top plastic bag and pour the larger portion of the marinade over them. Seal the bag and toss back and forth to coat the wings evenly. Refrigerate for at least several hours and preferably overnight.

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Mix the reserved marinade with the mint and cilantro.

Grill the chicken wings, uncovered, for 4 to 5 minutes, turning to sear on all sides, then turn and brush occasionally with the reserved marinade for another 5 minutes. Let cook for a final 3 to 4 minutes without basting so that the surface crisps up a bit. When done, the chicken should be cooked through, with the sauce charred lightly in a few spots and chewy in others. Serve warm, piled high on a colorful platter to eat as finger food.

4 large scoops each of two kinds of ice cream, such as vanilla, butter pecan, praline, chocolate or banana

Whipped cream

Toasted almonds, for garnish

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test). Oil the cooking grate.

Combine the sugar and half-and-half in a medium-size heavy saucepan. Bring the mixture to a full rolling boil, stirring occasionally. Stir in the butter until melted and remove from the heat.

Just before grilling, slice the bananas in their skins, lengthwise.

Transfer the bananas, cut side down, to the grate. Grill, uncovered, for 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the bananas skin sides down, brush their cut surfaces with a few teaspoons of the half-and-half mixture, and grill them for another 2 to 3 minutes, until soft and lightly colored.

Remove the bananas from their skins. If you own long banana split dishes, leave the banana halves whole and place two of them in each dish. If not, cut the bananas into bite-size chunks and divide them among individual serving dishes. Return the half-and-half mixture to medium-low heat and stir in the toffee chunks. Cook briefly until the chocolate and toffee have partially melted (leaving some chunkiness) and stir well.

Top each dish of banana with one scoop of each ice cream and some of the chocolate-toffee sauce. Add whipped cream, top with almonds, and serve immediately.

Patricia Olsen of San Rafael is a food and wine enthusiast with a vast cookbook collection. A survivor of Boot Camp at the Culinary Institute of America, she is unafraid to try anything in the kitchen including homemade sausages, cheese and candy.

If you’re interested in being a Cookbook Critic for the IJ, please email vlarson@marinij.com and include a little about yourself, your town, your cooking expertise, any dietary restrictions and types of foods you like to cook/bake. Please put “Cookbook Critic” in the subject line.