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For the Champagne lover, there has never been such variety to choose from. So, in honour of the festive season, here is a list of surefire bubblies that will make your celebrations and meals a hit.

BUDGET BUBBLES

Mousseux, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, J.P. Chenet

France mousseux, $11.85, SAQ # 10540748. This bubbly, from France's Languedoc, reminded me of apple cider with its ripe red apples and a touch of peach. Flavourful with relatively fine bubbles, this is a good choice for early morning in lieu of mixing your mousseux with orange juice. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif.

Cava, Brut, Classico, Codorniu Spain mousseux, $13.50, SAQ # 503490. Delicate and dry, hints of minerals, white fruit and lemon rind. Good building block for any of your fancy bubbly drinks and does well on its own. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif.

Touraine Mousseux 2003, Cuvée J.M. Monmousseau France mousseux, $16.65, SAQ # 223255. Rich and flavourful, it seems perhaps a touch overripe but that just adds to its richness on the finale. For the price, it's elegant enough; I liked its delicate effervescence. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif, shrimps and scallops cooked and in sauce.

ACCESSIBLE ELEGANCE

Mousseux, Brut, Anderson Valley, Roederer

California mousseux, $25.95, SAQ # 294181. Very classic Champagne-styled wine with the balance tipped toward amplitude in lieu of elegance. There are ripe apples as well as buttery toast and a touch of pineapple rind, which tips us off to its Californian origins. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif, meat pâtés and terrines.

Franciacorta Mousseux, Brut, Ca'del Bosco

Italy mousseux, $30.50, SAQ # 10655342. Without having the super finesse of Champagne, this is the next best thing and close to half the price. Its alluring bouquet is both floral and extra toasty with notes of very ripe green apple and a touch of almond. Superb. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif.

Franciacorta Mousseux 2001, Gran Cuvée, Pas Operé, Bellavista Italy mousseux, $57, SAQ # 10540078. Franciacorta is Italy's answer to Champagne, though with a touch more bubbles. Nonetheless, this is a beautiful combination of finesse and power. Totally dry, its bouquet is a model of complexity - brioche, vanilla, pear and even a hint of apricot. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif, white meats with mushrooms, mushroom canapés.

France mousseux, $69, SAQ # 10812951. Very elegant grand cru at a very affordable price. It's a Chablis with bubbles, extremely mineral but with a certain aromatic exuberance, hints of dried fruits and a touch of toast. The bubbles are very delicate. Lots of class in a glass. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Aperitif, oysters, boiled lobster.

Champagne 1996, Brut, Henriot

France mousseux, $74, SAQ # 10839627. Reminiscent of the great Vin Jaune of France's Jura region, if you want a Champagne to drink with your meal, this is it. The bouquet is explosive, with buttery hazelnut brioche, dried flowers, browning apples and ripe pear. But despite the richness, the oxidative notes and delicate effervescence keep it delicate and refined. Drink now. Food pairing: Strong enough to handle meat, but would be great with strong-flavoured pâté, caviar.

Champagne 1998, Brut, La Grande Dame, Veuve Clicquot France mousseux, $231, SAQ # 354779. Dom Perignon? Pommery's Louise? Krug's Grande Cuvée? You have hundreds to spend on the bubbles but don't know which one? While they are all fantastic, I would go with La Grande Dame. It just has it all - the right amount of toasty brioche, delicate but complex notes of pear, peach and apple, a gentle effervescence, and a long, lingering finish that goes on and on. Drink Now-2010. Food pairing: Aperitif, foie gras, hors d'oeuvres with mushrooms, scallops in cream sauce.

Mousseux Rosé, Ferrari Italy mousseux, $36, SAQ #10496901. One of the best rosés for the price; very delicate in both its pretty salmon colour and its subtle bouquet of raspberry and strawberry essence. The fine and refreshing bubbles give it just so much class. Drink now. Food pairing: Aperitif, salmon tartare.

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Bill's holiday guide to good bubblies

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