Terminology

A.T.C = Air Traffic Controller. ATC is a proprietary (Black Diamond) belay device designed to facilitate smooth feeding of rope and dissipate more heat than a stitch plate due to the larger surface area. The braking and feeding of rope work in the same fashion as with a stitch plate.

BARN DOOR. This is the tendency of the body to swing outward away from the wall on steep terrain when the gravity is not centered between points of contact.

BELAY DEVICE. A Belay Device is a mechanical thing used to hold the rope of a climber by applying enough friction to it.

BELAYING. It is a Climbing Technique of securing the climber during his climb.

BETA. Information about a route. Beta may be in the form of verbal or written advice on the techniques used or in watching another climber make the moves.

CAMPUS. This is the act of using only the arms to climb. It is a method of training grip, contact, and upper body strength.

CARABINER. It is a Climbing Equipment which is designed to fasten the rope to an anchor or connect two ropes or gear together.

CRUX. This refers to the hardest move on a route or the hardest section of a climb.

DYNO. Short for "dynamic," a gymnastic upward leap for a distant hold.

ELVIS LEG. Also called sewing machine leg, this it the uncontrollable shake of a leg during a climb. Often due to a combination of nerves and overcontraction of muscles. Also, when the leg of a fatigued climber spasms uncontrollably in an up and down motion, usually while in a stressed position.

FLAG. This refers to the act of extending a leg that counterbalances the body and prevents the center of mass from barn dooring.

FLASH. Completing a first attempt at climb with no falls (or resting on the rope) with the help of some beta either in the form of observing another climber or receiving intructions with regard to technique.

MATCH. This refers to the act of placing both hands to the same handhold.

PUMPED. A condition of severely depleted strength and lactic acid burn caused by over working the forearm muscles while climbing.

SMEARING. This refers to a technique of applying to a rock slab as much of the sticky sole of the climbing shoe as possible to achieve maximum friction. TOP-ROPING. A form of climbing where the rope is secured to an anchor point at the top of the route before the climber starts the climb.