Stratford to Mansfield

Our group of seven Idlers 4WD Club vehicles gathered at Stratford at
11:00am on Sunday the 19th January. This was the weekend of
those terrible bushfires in Canberra, and the building of the bushfires
around Mt Hotham and the north-eastern areas of the Victorian High
Country.

We set off north travelling through Briagalong, eventually turning
right onto Marathon Road and heading to the bush. Using Gillios and
Scrubby Creek Roads we found our way to Paddy Lees Track and the start
of some 4WDing. After a bit of a descent down to Valencia Creek we had a
long steady climb along the ridge that is now Stans Track (Note: Stans
Track was some 1.5km north of its marked position on our CFA maps) up to
Mt Angus Track.

Mt Angus Track follows a ridgeline, starting off at about 600m with a
few roller coaster like dips and climbs along its 5 kilometre length. It
then has a short sharp pinch, which peaks at 1000m, just as you swing
right onto Pleydells Spur Track. Pleydells Spur Track descends 500+m
over its 3 kilometre length before joining Valencia Creek Track.
Valencia Creek Track was for me the highlight of the day. It weaves its
way along the valley floor through some very beautiful thick bush before
finishing with a steep climb to Moroka Range Road. A wonderful drive,
which to me is what 4WDing is about, finding these almost hidden gems of
countryside. Right turn into Moroka Road and after a short trip we found
our way to the excellent Horseyard Flat Campgrounds on the Moroka River.

The next morning we woke to a hot day (Total Fire Ban) and the air
filled with smoke. After keeping an ear to the radio for bushfire
reports and finding that nearly all Victoria was covered in smoke, we
decided to continue on with the planned trip to Mt Wellington and the
Sentinels.

We returned to Moroka Road and headed west to Millers Gap Road and to
Millers Gap where we turned onto Mt Wellington Track. Mt Wellington
Track is a long 9 kilometre steady climb over a very rocky track to the
summit. So it was mainly a slow, low range let the vehicle do the
walking, trip. Unfortunately the 360-degree views that Mt Wellington
affords were totally obliterated by the smoke. It was a total whiteout;
still there was a sense of achievement in having reached the peak at
1640m. We continued on slowly over similar terrain for another 9
kilometres to Millers Hut for morning tea.

The group decided to continue on to the Sentinels despite the smoke.
A 4 kilometre trip over a rocky track that presented us with an old
fallen tree that had to be cleared. Whilst at the Millers Hut a large
4WD Campervan came back from the Sentinels, but he made no mention of
the tree, only that the track was slow and rocky. We have no idea of how
he got around or over this tree. To reach the Sentinels there is a 15min
"mountain goat" walk from the car park over rocks/boulders
that is a tad strenuous. Still it was enjoyable sitting there on the
boulders at 1550m, eating lunch and trying to picture the mountain
ranges out there beyond the smoke. Lake Tali Karng was barley visible in
the valley below. The return 22 kilometre trip back along Mt Wellington
Track to Millers Gap was slow.

Here we attempted to take Moroka Range Track to Moroka Hut but were
turned back, as is usual in the most awkward spot, by a huge tree across
the track. So it was back to Moroka Road and around to the other end of
Moroka Range Track and down to the hut on Racecourse Creek. A delightful
setting for a hut, a pity you cannot drive up to the hut to camp. After
a good look around it was now only a short trip back to camp. Although
we only covered some 70 kilometres, about half of this was on the slow
and demanding Mt Wellington Track, Happy Hour was most welcomed by all.

Next morning was still hot, though the smoke had cleared somewhat.
After listening to the fire reports we then headed east along Moroka
Road to Pinnacles Road, then onto the Pinnacles Fire Lookout. This
lookout is a structure build on the ground atop a ridge that gives the
most magnificent 360-degree views. Although there was a lot of smoke
haze the views were much better than expected. Surprisingly, with
another hot Total Fire Ban day, the tower was unmanned.

It was now right turn into Castle Hill Road then right again to go
down Billy Goat Bluff Track. This track is one of Victoriaís icon
tracks. It effectively follows the razorback from near the Fire Lookout
all the way down to the Wonnangatta River in the valley below. From the
top the first section drops 700m in 4 kilometres over some very
rocky/shaly sections with some rock ledges just to add to the
excitement. At the end of this section is a helipad, where stopping for
morning tea and looking back up at the mountain, some were surprised at
what they have just driven. At the helipad, many coming up from the
valley floor take one look, though they donít see the rocks etc. on
the track, then turn around and go back. The bottom section of the track
drops 1000m in 8 kilometres to the valley floor, and though steep/twisty
in parts, it has a much better surface overall than the top section.
Some of our group had not travelled this track for 5 years and believed
it had become cut-up badly. My recollections from travelling up this
track 2 years earlier are that it is still the same. A rough track that
should be treated as a "hard" track; definitely to be avoided
if wet.

At the bottom of Billy Goat Bluff those with petrol vehicles headed
right to London Stores Corner for more fuel whilst the rest of us turned
left and headed for Eaglevale. Whilst waiting for the group to
reassemble we enjoyed a relaxing time swimming in the warm waters of the
Wonnangatta river.

On regrouping it was across the river and up Eaglevale Track to Mt
Cynthia, a short but easy steady 600m climb, then turn left onto Cynthia
Range Track (Wombat Spur/Range Track on some maps). We turned left at
Herne Spur Track, which drops down quickly (400m) to the Wonnangatta
River at the eastern most edge of the Wonnangatta Valley. This track had
obviously been graded recently and one steep section near the middle had
become like beach sand. We came across a Trailbike rider who had fallen
off, uninjured except for pride, who could not get his bike through this
section. We helped get him going then continued on the long drive along
the valley floor, through some magnificent country, to our campsite
opposite the homestead cemetery on the river flats. The Wonnangatta
Valley did not seem to be as pretty as on my previous visit. The exotic
trees around the old homestead were not in their autumn colours. For me
it is that "foreign" splash of colour that adds that bit extra
which makes the valley so special.

Next morning after a quick look around and a check of the bush fire
reports, another hot Total Fire Ban day, we were off heading north out
of the valley. Firstly it was Rileys Track as planned, and then what
turned out to be Sambar Spur Track. We then found ourselves using Harry
Shepherds Track to get to Razor Track. Tracks that had been used 5 years
previously were no longer there, or now for Management Vehicles Only. No
matter the alternate tracks were quite good.

Razor Track was another highlight. Initially you are driving through
this thick "rainforest" whilst crossing over a few streams,
absolutely magical. Then you climb up to the ridge and follow it north
until you come to a helipad. Here there are some great views of Mt
Cobbler to the left and Mt Hotham to the right (though unfortunately Mt
Hotham was on fire). From the helipad you continue north along the ridge
gently climbing until the track swings east and drops rather quickly
down, over some huge spoon drains, to the Western Branch of the Buffalo
River. During this descent, and the trip along the deep valley floor, I
effectively lost GPS signals for about 8 kilometres despite having an
external GPS antenna. There were no satellites anywhere near 45 degrees
above the horizon and the GPS could not get a lock on those just above
the horizon. A situation I had never encountered before. Another
vehicle, without an external GPS antenna, faired much worse not having
GPS fix for a longer period, plus losing signal for much of the rest of
the day.

We lunched beside the river at the Lake Cobbler Track Campground
where we decided not to continue northward but head west, away from the
fires, on Cobbler-Abbeyards Track. It was a long steady climb over an
interesting track that had some rather large spoon drains. At the
helipad we opted not to go to Lake Cobbler as we had already had enough
4WDing that day. Instead we would take the easier Williams Logging Track
and Little Cobbler Track directly to King Hut near Mt Buller further
away from the bushfires.

Williams Logging Track obviously has seen little use, and is
certainly not as long as shown on our CFA maps. It twists and turns,
more than a bit, but is a good track though slightly overgrown. Little
Cobbler Track provided a long but relatively smooth run to King Hut.
That night whilst sipping port around our non-existent campfire a Ranger
drove up. He said that as of 10am tomorrow the Alpine National Park was
closed and signs were being placed around all the park entrances
tonight. This was because of the danger of the fires to the north-east
spotting in the next couple of days, plus all firefighting resources
were over there. The park would be closed for the coming long-weekend
and any one caught in the park by the sweeping patrols would cop a hefty
fine.

Next morning, another hot Total Fire Ban day, we broke camp early
with the aim of getting out of the park by 10am. We headed to Pineapple
Flat along King Basin Road, then turned right onto Burnt Top Track and
followed this all the way to Cherry Tree. These tracks are all marked as
4WD on the CFA maps but in fact they are excellent forest roads (2WD).
We turned left onto Stockyard Track then to Long Spur Track, a bit more
interesting than previous tracks, and then around Lake William Hovell on
the bitumen to Evans Creek Track.

Evans Creek Track becomes a little more interesting as it nears
Cambatong Road. We turned left at the intersection and headed along
Cambatong Spur Track to Bald Hill (1211m). There is a very interesting
section of track as you approach Bald Hill. A narrow, short steep climb
over rocks/shale being the best part of the day so far. Bald Hill has an
automatic weather station on top. At this point we had problems sorting
out what tracks were still in existence and ended up following Cambatong
Spur Track, another wonderful twisty drive through some very lush
forest, down the mountain to Carters Road. From there we took Buttercup
Road, lots of potholes, and on to Mt Buller Road and to Mansfield.

Overall the trip was great, although extremely dusty for the vehicles
not in the lead.

It was 426 kilometres in length and the 3.0L TD Patrol consumed 96
litres of Diesel (aircon. on most of the time).