I had to stress test my 6.5 fish board (my first hand shaped board). Emma Wood was big and tubular, but it was too much of a close-out to get any decent rides, so I went down the road to Mondo's. I got a lot of rides there, but the mushiness of the waves there didn't really work with a short little fish. Good news is that the board works great, paddles well, catches waves really nice.

Super fun out of season swell! da rights was so rippable. u could do multiple turns, snaps, float sections, boost some airs! da left was wedging just asking for sum 12 o clock snaps. sum wave had some little barrels. Was fun to see all da boys and girls out and ripping. I boosted a big air and Jeff Johnson was blowing my head up telling me how sick it was on my little board. He was checking it out and said Makani did a good job and i was surfing the board well! Was nice to see everyone and I can't wait for this winter! Aloha

I was kinda spent form da earlier sessions, but still was fun. probably chill tomorrow cause i have rash on my stomach, thighs, and underarm. love days like this. i'm gonna have a few beer and crash out!

Kevin and Stacy's third time surfing in as many days. They are really hooked, and with my foot feeling good enough to get wet (I sprained in on my previous session) we had a great time out there. They both loved it. I bet they will be back soon.

Good surprise this morning: there were glassy waves! And they were pretty good. We were 3 to 5 surfers with 2 brasilians. I took a lot of waves. Waves were a bit weak but so;e of them were very good. I took a big hollow left.

All the surfers wear wetsuits. I didn't understood as the water was warm. But they explained to me it was to avoid "kurage" (jellyfish). But ｉ didn't get hurt.

4:30 AM the alarm goes off ... knock it off the nightstand... it goes off again, pick it up and drop it on the floor, finally turn it off but Destruct'o my daughters 15 pound Himalayan is now awake, jumps up on the bed and sticks its paw in my ear ... wake up! OK feed the cat, get ready, open the door to put my JL Super Fish outside ... and the cat bolts ... now I have to chase her down. Finally load the Solara.

Head down 7th Street, CD blasting a Marty Robbins cowboy lament, to the 405 Freeway south on-ramp, by Cal State University, Long Beach but first have to find a gas station that's open ... good 7-11 ... get gas and a cup of coffee ... big mistake.

Its not quite 6AM, sky is still dark purple and already there is a line of cars. Kids with boards under their arm riding bikes, skateboards and even an electric scooter. Start the long trek down the path to Trestles.

Half way down the hill the 7-11 coffee strikes ... Oh no, got to go, bad. Run behind some bushes, scaring a cottontail and squat, right on a prickle, ouch, then pee in my shoe, lovely! Cross under the railroad trestle by San Mateo Creek, couple of Egrets fly overhead, laughing.

'Uppers' looks pretty good, not too crowded, 3-4 foot, low tide with clean glassy conditions. I want to surf 'Lowers' so I plod the extra half a mile down the beach in the hard sand by the waters edge. Boy look at all those Pelicans out in the break, wait a minute, there not birds, there people, can't be ... yes, must be close to 30 guys out, and its only first light!

'Lowers' is a world class, perfect a-frame reef break. Sand and cobble-stone bottom with some seaweed. The peak is so clean and easy, its like a blank sheet of paper, you can draw anything on it.

It's waist to chest with occasional head high sets. Clean, paper thin, hollow lefts and rights. There are no long boards out there and the surfers are good, very good and very, very good! Guys taking off deep in the peak, come flying off the bottom into a snap 360, or blasting out of the tube into another 360 or a front-side air!

Paddle outside with an older guy and a board builder from Puerto Rico, who just got back from surfing 10 foot Tavaruawith Sonny Garcia, he is over here looking for a computer cad shaping machine. My 7'2" Super Fish can out paddle their 5'6" Thrusters and actually snag some sick waves! The lefts were steeper with a following curl, but the rights were longer and had a nice inside wall. I surf my forehand better on my 9'2" so I was mostly going right. You take off right in the suck up in the middle of the peak, its a fast, steep hollow take off and you need lots of speed.

When everyone out there is so good you make sure you bring your 'A' game, don't mess up and work every wave, hard. About 8:30 AM the crowd thinned and with the tide push it got a little bigger, but still inconsistent. Even though each peak handles two guys, there is only one take off spot, so its a lot of paddle positioning work and the water was quite chilly, probably low 60's. I lasted until around 9:30 AM when the sun finally came out. Cold and dead beat limped up the hill (got a blister on my heal from sand in my sneaker) made good time back home ... took a shower and passed out ... to tired for breakfast!

First try for Marina, Bruno's daughter. Conditionswere not perfect for an attempt! Established north wind,very strong current, and powerful waves. Marina did not succeed well.Only on her knees :( After this, I took several waves. 4 were good. A massive take off on a 1.5m swell. The shore break was not terrific but there were so many people on the shore it was difficult not hitting anybody! This is definitely not a spot for an august session...

Now the tropical depression was here. And it was big, windy. Nearly it was too much !

I jumped into the water to surf with 2 other surfers: at the peak, I discovered thet the other surfer was brasilian who was working at the local Sony's factory .

Waves were hard to surf and I was backside. But I got some good ones. Imagine a big shore break. You have to pay attention to the tripods. Don't coma at less then 15-20m or you will be projected by the rip into the tripods. Pretty ugly.

Took Maggie's friend Jennifer out surfing for the first time. She really liked it. Also took my new, hand shaped 6.5 fish out. It paddled and rode very well, but a fun broke out of it's binding and I had to take it in.

Surfline said we're "supposed" to see a build up by this afternoon and we didn't see anything except onshore winds & choppyness.. It's actually fun because there is no more than 7 people out. Sometimes there'll be only 3 people out. Anything more than 7 people would've really suck. I was hoping to see a bull shark but we saw a few manta rays getting air. Tomorrow supposed to be 8 feet. I seriously doubt it. Maybe 5 feet and that's pushing it. The people in the line up are cool. But then again, we're all tourist staying at Cardon resort.

I am a beginner and need to rent board/wetsuit. This beach is beautiful and really a fun place to surf. Plus there is Koa Surf School which is an awesome place to rent equipment from and hang out for the day. I had a wonderful surf day here.

The waves (for me) are best between low and high tide. During high tide there are alot of body boarders near the shore.

I have waited a long for this session...10 years...It 's the first time I surfed here. I wake up early and decided to have a look. I didn't expect any waves. When I arrived, it was surfable: 1m waves were rolling along the beach.

Fun waves: it's a shorebreak which is not a close out ! I had to rediscover the board I got: a thruster I habe brought in Japan. Waves were short and hollow.I surfed with 6 other japaneses who were very surprised to see me surfing here.

At the end: not my best session and my best surf but I was really happy to surf here.

My first time surfting in California. Very different kind of wave from hawaii south shore. First shorebrake wave i ever surfed. Long walk to get there. Had to park at San Onofre beach and walk along the military beach to access it. There were alot of good lefts, but limited lefts. Lots of closeout waves with indistinct peak. Sand and seaweed bottom.

"Another PleasantValleySunday" (morning) in the river that is. Small background southern hemi ground swell, a touch of NW wind swell, plus some energy from Hurricane Hernan, a Cat-3 storm with winds topping out over 115 mph (185 kph) late Sunday night.

The U.S. National Hurricane Center in Miami said Hernan was located off Mexico's western coast, about 1,065 miles (1,715 kilometers) west-southwest of the tip of the Baja California peninsula, moving northward and further out to sea.

Some fun chest high waves out there this morning from 6AM to 9AM, before the wind came up and the crowd came out ... where were you Kelly C.?