Rotten snow and crumbly rock on the ridge to the camp at 10K'.
Route before the rock step was 85% neve, with big bare patches of blue ice.
We took the first rock gully that we saw after we crested onto the Mowich face - we think the "correct" one was the next one over. The one we took was long and had many low 5th class steps on very good rock. Very enjoyable!

climbed this with my buddy Nate over Memorial weekend '05
lots of deep snow on the approach and upper mountain, but the steep parts were in great shape. Found little ice, mostly neve.
The rock band was the crux, with lots of spindrift from the upper mt pouring thru it.
Spectacular route.