tcough wrote:You're making great progress Conrad and will be caught up to me in no time. This was the exciting part of the build for me so far, seeing it take shape and starting to get a feel for the size. After the flip, you'll really appreciate how much room is in it.

Sooooo, I’m getting ready to mark out and cut the transom....did you set 14 degrees on a bandsaw? I wish the plans would have just marked both lines...

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

Conrad...there are several ways to get that angle...
If you have the room...your bandsaw method is perfect. ..
If you are good with a jig saw Tracy ...has a good idea. ..
I stole this pic..from someone on the fourm...just to show you what I did..
My thought was. ..once the battens were in...I could use there straightness to get a better angle on the transom...

Conrad...I did a screen shot...on my phone...it will not let me pull it up to attach it to this thread. ..we are living in fla..now...and have no inter-net or cable...and I kind of like it...but anyway will email it to you...

That's a good question. It does leave open the option to use hot-dipped galvanized but you might as well use Silicon bronze. It's a pretty small percentage of the cost of the build overall. In the end, Glen-L was the only place I could even find the size I needed for the Geronimo.

So today, I trimmed up most of the gussets, laminated the bottom pieces on the transom(since I jacked up the only piece I had wide enough) spaced out the frames to the proper length, cut the keel notches on all the frames and dry fitted the stem and keel. I measured it out and I think my final size will be 20’ 4”. I’m not sure where I ended up with the extra 7”, but I’m not complaining!

I’ll cut the batten notches into the transom, and cut the chine notches into the frames tomorrow.

Kelly and Tracy, did you notch the transom and then just lay the battens out to decide where to cut the notches? Also, did you have to scarf any battens? If so, where did you choose to place the joint? For the Chine, did you use 1” nominal or actually plane to 3/4? I have been using 7/8” net and am thinking of keeping that for the chimes. Thoughts? Lastly, Did you epoxy frames 5 & 6 at the stem joint or just screw them on?

Thanks for answering my thousand questions!

Attachments

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

I did have to scarf..a few of my battens...if I remember I tried to break them over a frame...
The chines ....the one where bottom of boat meets gunwale...I think I too did 7/8....
The chines ..where deck of boat meets gunwales...
I believe that needs to be 5/8...because you have a great bend in the bow...plus you need up laminating that with 2 pcs.. plus adding a pc...between frames in the bow area..

I notched the transom before laminating it and placed the battens roughly parallel to the keel. Marked their location, then cut the frame notches. I did laminate a couple of the longer battens, locating the joint as far aft as possible. You'll have a pretty wicked bend in them up near the bow, so avoid laminating in that area and use lots of steam and something to hold them down (up?) while placing the ply sheeting. I used wire attached to screw eyes and the building frame.

Chines I believe were 3/4" (1" nominal) stock. Be careful here too at the bow and use plenty of steam (this goes for the shear too). Given enough time/steam, I think you could wrap stock around a pencil.

So far, I've used epoxy at all connections where screws were used. At the sheathing to frame connection, only epoxy, no screws. I did notice the other day, while planning to start work on her again, that several screw "divots" could be seen. I may be too far along to go back to them, but it's not a show boat. The juice may not be worth the squeeze.

You're making great progress. I can't believe it's been almost 2 years since I last worked on mine, but will be back at it soon.