So, with my new build built(Sorry for the lack of pictures, trying to find my good camera), I thought, what more can I do?......Watercooling my MSI GTX 680 Lightning came into mind. Now, yes, I am a watercooling nublet. Well, I did install a H100.....
Aesthetics are not really a problem for me, as long as it's blue, black, or white I'm happy!
Here is the partslist so far-
EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC680 GTX+ CSQQuestion-Will this fit on my 680 lightning? As I cannot get the lightning edition.
XSPC AX120 Radiator Silver
No Questions
XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump Combo
No Questions
Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, Blue, 6 pack
No Questions
EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (premix 1000mL)
No Questions
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD2 metres
No Questions
Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Temperature SensorQuestions-I can see a spare 1/4 hole in res, with a screw plug in it, this should fit in there? And, where does this plug into? A fan header or something?

A concept layout.
Obviously please advise me of any incompatibilites, worthwhile adjustments, or if there any areas where I can save money.

I don't think there are any Full GPU blocks that will fit your card, And your going to want bigger then a 120 rad, or your temps won't be nearly as good as they could. Almost making the loop not worthwhile I would think.

You would have to get a universal block like this, and then get lame little ram sinks and shit for the extras on the card.

Hmmmmm, I'll talk the guys where I buy my parts from, see if they can get the lightning waterblock in.
This rad should suffice? XSPC AX240 Radiator Black. I should be able to stuff in in the front of my switch 810 if I remove both drive bays. There's a slight chance I can mount it on the bottom, my psu cables just jut out a bit.

Ducky Year of the Snake w/ Cherry MX Browns & Year of the Tiger PBT Keycaps | Razer Deathadder Black

The spare hole in the res with a screw plug is your fill port. Be sure to tighten it to the point that your o-ring is being compressed if you're going to set the system on its side. Didn't have mine tight enough recently, but luckily caught it or I could have killed my SSD and HDD.

Also, you do NOT want to cool a GTX 680 Lightning without getting a full cover block. The VRMs on modern high-end cards run way too hot to let a passive heatsink cool them.

I say ditch the H100 and get a CPU block as well. That way, you can have a 2x120 and 1x120 cooling the CPU and GPU. That should be sufficient.

The spare hole in the res with a screw plug is your fill port. Be sure to tighten it to the point that your o-ring is being compressed if you're going to set the system on its side. Didn't have mine tight enough recently, but luckily caught it or I could have killed my SSD and HDD.

Also, you do NOT want to cool a GTX 680 Lightning without getting a full cover block. The VRMs on modern high-end cards run way too hot to let a passive heatsink cool them.

I say ditch the H100 and get a CPU block as well. That way, you can have a 2x120 and 1x120 cooling the CPU and GPU. That should be sufficient.

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From the great words of TacoTown, "A computer is never done, you're just out of money." I'm already pushing the wallet on this one. I might add a cpu block some time Q1 next year. And I believe the port you are talking about is ontop, there is a another one on the back.

And another nooby question. Whats the best way to rinse out your rad? Pour some distilled water into it, cover the holes. shake it, and repeat? Also, are there any other components that need to be rinsed?

And another nooby question. Whats the best way to rinse out your rad? Pour some distilled water into it, cover the holes. shake it, and repeat? Also, are there any other components that need to be rinsed?

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Rinse rad? I did what you suggested with mine before my new install.

However, if you wan to be anal about it you can set up a tub of water, fill with distilled water, put hose into water, run a pump to push water through rad and out into the tub, via a filter. That way you can leave it running for a while to makes sure every last bit of debris is out.

Also, that other plug you have circled on your reservoir is an LED port by the looks of it. Just another possible inlet (or for cosmetic lighting).

However, if you wan to be anal about it you can set up a tub of water, fill with distilled water, put hose into water, run a pump to push water through rad and out into the tub, via a filter. That way you can leave it running for a while to makes sure every last bit of debris is out.

From the great words of TacoTown, "A computer is never done, you're just out of money." I'm already pushing the wallet on this one. I might add a cpu block some time Q1 next year. And I believe the port you are talking about is ontop, there is a another one on the back.http://gyazo.com/8b2ef2fcadd0a8c82bf3a4db5bcc2366.png?1352100864

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Should go into the back plug.

These are available for people without ROG boards. That particular one is stupid expensive, but was the fastest to find. They go for like $9 on ebay.

I have two EK blocks on my 7970's. The one i fitted myself tops out at 53-55 degrees (BF3, 2560x1440, maximum graphics settings, and i mean maximum) and this is with fans on my radiator on sub 1000rpm speeds and in a dual gpu loop and it's overclocked at 1050MHz.

So I know as long as you use TLC when assembling the EK block works very well indeed.

I have two EK blocks on my 7970's. The one i fitted myself tops out at 53-55 degrees (BF3, 2560x1440, maximum graphics settings, and i mean maximum) and this is with fans on my radiator on sub 1000rpm speeds and in a dual gpu loop and it's overclocked at 1050MHz.

So I know as long as you use TLC when assembling the EK block works very well indeed.

You'd be amazed at how many there are out there. The one you link seems to have a cure time, I think that's better for CPU's. I may be wrong.

I used Arctic Cooling MX4, a long established favourite. You can't really go wrong with most thermal pastes. It's how you apply it that matters and that's a hot debate. Credit card smearing over the whole heatsink, small central blob or 'X' line across heatsink, all viable and with detractors too. Just follow manufacturer guidelines. EKWB suggest using the 'X' technique.

Well, you would want the drain at the lowest possible place of the loop. A splitter with a valve would work though it makes a bit more clutter. I prefer just disconnecting a tube.

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Yeah, I'll just have the quick disconnect, then just jam a bucket next to the case, and pop off the quick disconnect. Also, are there anyways I can cut down the cost? At the moment its at about $500 including shipping.