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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS » OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » Chassis number The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube. Enter this number in the field on page no 1. Engine number The engine number is stamped into the engine housing underneath the carburetor. Enter this number in the field on page no 1. Clutch lever The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjusting screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically. Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [2] is mounted on the handle bars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [B] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). 1 A 2 B
ENGLISH 7 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » Short circuit button The short circuit button [1] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. Filler cap To open it: turn filler cap counter-clockwise. To close it: put filler cap back on and tighten it by turning it clockwise. Install tank breather hose [2] without kinks. Fuel tap The fuel tap [3] is located on the left side of the tank. Opening the fuel tap: Turn the knob all the way to the left. Closing the fuel tap: Turn the knob all the way to the right. Choke The choke button [4] is located on the left side of the carburetor. Pulling the choke button all the way out opens a bore in the carburetor through which the engine can take in additional fuel, thus achieving the „rich” fuel air mixture needed for cold starting. Pushing the choke button back in closes the bore in the carburetor. Shift lever The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral, or the idle speed, is located between first and second gear

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Clutch lever The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjusting screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically. Hot start lever If you pull the red hot start lever [2] during the starting procedure backward, a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional air. The result is a “lean” fuel-air mixture of the type needed for hot starts. 2 1 A Fuel tap OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the carburetor. ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that the fuel can flow to the carburetor. OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Starter button (450 SX-F) Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. ENGLISH 6 Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. Filler cap To open the filler cap: Turn the filler cap 45 ° counter-clockwise. To close the filler cap: Put the filler cap on and turn it 45 ° clockwise. OFF ON 1 A 2 3 ENGLISH 7 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » Choke If you pull the choke button [1] out as far as possible, a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional fuel. The result is a “fat” fuel-air mixture of the type needed for cold starts. To deactivate the choke, push the choke button back into its basic position. Shift lever The shift lever is mounted on the left side of the engine. The position of the gears is shown in the illustration. Neutral is located between first and second gear. Kickstarter (250 SX-F) The kickstarter is mounted on the right side of the engine. Its upper part can be swivelled. Foot brake pedal The foot brake pedal is located in front of the right footrest. Its basic position can be adjusted to your seat position (see maintenance work). Plug in stand The plug-in stand can be attached to the wheel spindle on the left side of the motorcycle

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Clutch lever 500133-10 The clutch lever  is fitted on the left side of the handlebar. The clutch is hydraulically operated and self-adjusting. Hand brake lever 400196-10 Hand brake lever  is located on the right side of the handlebar. The hand brake lever is used to activate the front brake. EmergencyOFFswitch 500144-10 The emergency OFF switch  is fitted on the left side of the handlebar. Possible states Ignition off-In this position, the ignition circuit is interrupted, a run- ningenginestops, and anon-running engine will not start. Ignition on-In this position, the ignition circuit is closed, and the engine can be started. Ignition switch 300396-10 The ignition switch  is on the right behind the headlight mask. Possible states Ignition off-In this position, the ignition circuit is interrupted, a run- ningenginestops, and anon-running engine will not start. Ignition on-In this position, the ignition circuit is closed, and the engine can be started. Electrics tarter button 500144-12 Electric starter button  is fitted on the right side of the handlebar. Possible states •Electric starter button is in home position •Electric starter button is pressed-In this position, the electric starter is actu

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove the cotter pin (5) and washer (E) from the master cylinder clevis pin (B). Discard the cotter pin. NOTE The clevis pin has a slight interference fit. It may be necessary to use pliers to pull the clevis pin from the push rod. Be careful not to damage mating parts. 2. Remove the clevis pin (B) from the brake rod. Thoroughly clean and examine parts for wear. Replace if necessary. 3. Remove the brake lever mounting screw (A) and flat washer (D), and save for reinstallation, if necessary. Remove and discard the outer O-ring (2). 4. Remove the brake lever by rotating counter-clockwise and lifting the master-cylinder clevis if necessary. Pull the lever from the shaft. Remove and discard the inner O-ring. 5. Thoroughly clean the lever mounting shaft of grease and dirt. INSTALLATION NOTE These levers are equipped with self-lubricating bushings. It is not necessary to lubricate the mounting shaft or bushings inside the lever prior to installation. 1. See Figure 1. Insert the new O-rings (4) on either side of the lever bushings (2). Install the new brake lever (1) onto the mounting shaft. NOTE There is insufficient clearance to install the clevis pin from the outside, so it must be installed from the inboard side of the brake lever. 2. Align the holes in the lever and brake rod and insert the stock clevis pin (B) from the inboard side. 3. Install the small flat washer (E) onto the clevis pin and insert the new cotter pin (5). 4. Place the large flat washer (D) onto the brake lever mounting screw (A). Apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads of the screw, and reinstall into the brake lever mounting shaft. Tighten the screw to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) . 5. Install the brake pedal pad (C) to the brake lever. After repairing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) 6. Check the brake lever for proper operation and clearance through its full travel

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be installed in the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3 2 1 is00825 1. Brake lever 2.5/32 inch (4 mm) cardboard insert 3. Brake lever bracket Figure 1. Install Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 3 4 1 2 5 is 02071 1. Upper switch housing 2. Lower switch housing 3. Throttle cable adjuster 4. Idle cable adjuster 5. Adjuster jam nut Figure 2. Handlebar Throttle Control 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws. 5. Loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw and flat washer. NOTE If possible, leave the friction shoe in place. The friction shoe is a loose-fit and may fall out or become dislodged if the lower switch housing is turned upside down or shaken. 6. See Figure 3. Remove the brass ferrules from the notches on the inboard side of the throttle control grip. Remove the ferrules from the cable end fittings. 1 2 4 3 is 02072 1. Throttle cable 2. Idle cable 3. Brass ferrule 4. Notch Figure 3. Throttle/Idle Control Cables 7. Pull the crimped inserts at the end of the throttle and idle control cable housings from the lower switch housing. For best results, use a rocking motion while pulling. Remove cables with retaining rings from switch housing. Apply a drop of light oil on the retaining ring, if necessary, to help in removal. NOTE If installing different handlebars, measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the throttle grip. Compare this additional required length to the cables provided in the kit. If the cables are more than 2.0 inches (51 mm) longer or more than 1.0 inch (25 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. Install proper length throttle cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00396b) 8. Follow instructions in the applicable service manual and remove air cleaner and backplate.

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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BRAKE LEVER INSTALLATION Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 1. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 1. See Figure 1. Squeeze the brake lever and place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. NOTE Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available. NOTE Do not remove the handlebar clamp or switch housing assembly to remove the brake lever. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 2. See the Figure 2 and the FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER section of the Service Manual. Remove the retaining ring (4) from the groove in the pivot pin (B) and discard retaining ring. 3. Remove the pivot pin and retain for re-use. Remove and discard the original equipment brake lever and pivot lever bushing. NOTE New brake levers come with the pivot lever bushing installed. NOTE Follow the instructions in Steps 3 and 4 carefully in order to prevent the actuating tab on the brake lever from damaging the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. -J04342 1 of 3 4. Gently press and hold the piston cap (A) forward with a screwdriver. Slip the brake lever into position and align the pivot pin holes. 5. Install the pivot pin removed in Step 2 and new retaining ring (4) from kit. 6. Check the front brake for proper operation. There should be no free play in the hand lever. A slight preload is per- missible. A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or lock-up, which could lead to loss of control, resulting in death or serious injury. (00288a) 7. To verify proper operation of the master-cylinder relief port, actuate the brake lever with the reservoir cover and gasket removed. A slight spurt of fluid will break the surface if internal components are working properly. 8. Reinstall the master cylinder cover. Be sure that all lights and switches operate properly before operating motorcycle. Low visibility of rider can result in death or serious injury. (00316a) 9. Check that the stop light goes on when the brake lever is actuated. CLUTCH LEVER INSTALLATION See the CLUTCH CONTROL section of the appropriate Service Manual for all clutch lever removal, installation and adjustment procedures. SERVICE PARTS

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INSTALLATION NOTE The figures show the gauge mounted to the clutch (left-hand) lever clamp. The gauge can be mounted on either the clutch or brake lever side, using the upper or lower clamp mounting screw per customer preference. 5 3 1 2 4 is01874 1. Gauge 2. Bracket (bent backward) 3. Socket head set screw from this kit 4. Original equipment screw 5. Original equipment washer (front of bracket) Figure 1. Gauge Bracket Mounted to Upper Screw (Left-Hand Shown) 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 2. Using a T27 TORX drive head, remove the desired screw (upper or lower) with flat washer securing the handlebar clamp to the hand lever bracket. NOTE When mounting the gauge bracket to the lower clamp mounting screw, install the original flat washer behind the bracket. 2. Install the handlebar clamp screw with flat washer through the larger hole in the gauge bracket, and tighten to 60-80 in-lbs (6,8-9,0 Nm). 3. Rotate the gauge to the desired angle, then tighten the gauge attaching screw securely. SETTING THE TIME ON THE CLOCK NOTE The clock is shipped with the stem pulled out, which stops clock operation. If the stem has been pushed in, pull out the stem carefully, and turn it until the hands indicate the correct time. Carefully push the stem back in to start the clock. REPLACING THE CLOCK BATTERY The clock battery (Type SR626SW) is a common type, available wherever watch batteries are sold. It is recommended that the battery be replaced at a watch repair facility, as the screw back cover requires a special tool for removal and replacement. The clock is waterproof, and requires special attention when re-assembled.