Get unlimited digital access $14.99 A MONTH

True American Kitchen has opened in the Jericho Turnpike spot that was formerly Lula Trattoria (and, before that, Circa Enoteca).

True to its name, the restaurant offers regional American classics such as Louisiana shrimp and grits, New England lobster roll, Buffalo wings, Southern fried chicken and waffles, roast chicken and a burger, albeit one with slab bacon, smoked Gouda, avocado, crispy onions and chipotle aioli on a pretzel bun.

In fact, the menu offers as much new American as true American — beet “carpaccio” with greens, orange, goat cheese and pistachios, tuna tartare with tobiko aioli, bourbon-braised pork belly sliders, Amerasian duck tacos, black-sesame-crusted tuna, pan-roasted duck with kale, farro, foie gras and cherry-bourbon compote. Starters range from $12 to $18, mains from $22 to $30, sandwiches are $16.

This is the first restaurant for owner Tracy Gibstein, whose experience is in catering and special-events planning. The chef is Jason DeLeo who was most recently sous chef at MP Taverna in Roslyn and also worked at The Brass Rail in Locust Valley.