[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/480156-largest_dyno.jpg[/image] As should this. Seriously, use your brain! Holds have different forms and colors for a reason, no need for dozends of colored tapes. And definitely not for such large ones!

qwert

Um... ever heard of a dyno comp?

GO

Yes, I heard of that stuff. Just as with indoor bouldering or even indoor bouldering comps! I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them. Where i am bouldering there are only two cases where tape gets used: To mark the top and the zones (only for comps) and to mark areas that are off (e.g. if a feature that you cant remove is not in a boulder, also only in comps). Other than that, its either colored holds (comps), or simply "Ok, you start at that big black rectangle, the grab the boob sloper, change to the red Mr. Burns, then those two green Stoneloves, on to the tiger then you jump the the "Bierhenkel"(~large jug, like those on the big german beer glasses). Next is the dildo, and then the neon pink, and top out in the ceiling hole". Good brain training, if you actually have to remember stuff!

[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/480156-largest_dyno.jpg[/image] As should this. Seriously, use your brain! Holds have different forms and colors for a reason, no need for dozends of colored tapes. And definitely not for such large ones!

qwert

Um... ever heard of a dyno comp?

GO

Yes, I heard of that stuff. Just as with indoor bouldering or even indoor bouldering comps! I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them. Where i am bouldering there are only two cases where tape gets used: To mark the top and the zones (only for comps) and to mark areas that are off (e.g. if a feature that you cant remove is not in a boulder, also only in comps). Other than that, its either colored holds (comps), or simply "Ok, you start at that big black rectangle, the grab the boob sloper, change to the red Mr. Burns, then those two green Stoneloves, on to the tiger then you jump the the "Bierhenkel"(~large jug, like those on the big german beer glasses). Next is the dildo, and then the neon pink, and top out in the ceiling hole". Good brain training, if you actually have to remember stuff!

qwert

Well, in most US gym comps that are not regional or nationals there are a lot of routes on the same wall that need to be taped. Dyno comps are also taped to make it easier to judge. Black to black, blue to black, blue to red, red to black.. etc they can set 5 starts and 5 finishes and have a lot of variations.

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

When a gym does have an unlimited budget, Stone Summit in Atlanta, it is pretty glorious.

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

For routes i can understand it. It's kinda "strenuous" if you have to memorize dozens and dozens of holds, but for boulders? Apart from competitions, where you simply do not have the time to "learn and memorize" a boulder, its simply not necessary. Brains are made for a reason… use it!

(I dont want to start a flamewar here, but i stand by my opinion that the excessive amount of tape in the pic makes it worthwhile of this thread)

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

For routes i can understand it. It's kinda "strenuous" if you have to memorize dozens and dozens of holds, but for boulders? Apart from competitions, where you simply do not have the time to "learn and memorize" a boulder, its simply not necessary. Brains are made for a reason… use it!

(I dont want to start a flamewar here, but i stand by my opinion that the excessive amount of tape in the pic makes it worthwhile of this thread)

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

For routes i can understand it. It's kinda "strenuous" if you have to memorize dozens and dozens of holds, but for boulders? Apart from competitions, where you simply do not have the time to "learn and memorize" a boulder, its simply not necessary. Brains are made for a reason… use it!

(I dont want to start a flamewar here, but i stand by my opinion that the excessive amount of tape in the pic makes it worthwhile of this thread)

qwert

Commercial rock gyms in the US for the most part have taped routes for roped climbing and bouldering too. I'm not sure what sort of gym that you prefer, but it's pretty much a standard here to tape routes and then grade them. I'm not sure why you would need to memorize a boulder route if they are already taped. Although, there are plenty of instances where people get bored and just start climbing around and wind up making a really good new untaped route that people subsequently will remember. If people like it enough it will get taped up.

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

For routes i can understand it. It's kinda "strenuous" if you have to memorize dozens and dozens of holds, but for boulders? Apart from competitions, where you simply do not have the time to "learn and memorize" a boulder, its simply not necessary. Brains are made for a reason… use it!

(I dont want to start a flamewar here, but i stand by my opinion that the excessive amount of tape in the pic makes it worthwhile of this thread)

qwert

Commercial rock gyms in the US for the most part have taped routes for roped climbing and bouldering too. I'm not sure what sort of gym that you prefer, but it's pretty much a standard here to tape routes and then grade them. I'm not sure why you would need to memorize a boulder route if they are already taped. Although, there are plenty of instances where people get bored and just start climbing around and wind up making a really good new untaped route that people subsequently will remember. If people like it enough it will get taped up.

we have a gym near me that sets by colored holds and it is terrible. they have white holds and other light colored holds that get covered in shoe rubber and all look the same. they also do bullshit like blue/red = .7 blue =.8 red=.10

I can see the use of tape if you have a wall full of holds and you just cant remove all holds before a comp, but in this case all the holds available have different colors and different forms, so there is no need to further distinguish them.

I find that you become very limited in routesetting when restricted to only using holds of the same color (unless the gym has an unlimited budget). Route tape is made for a reason... use it!

For routes i can understand it. It's kinda "strenuous" if you have to memorize dozens and dozens of holds, but for boulders? Apart from competitions, where you simply do not have the time to "learn and memorize" a boulder, its simply not necessary. Brains are made for a reason… use it!

(I dont want to start a flamewar here, but i stand by my opinion that the excessive amount of tape in the pic makes it worthwhile of this thread)

qwert

Commercial rock gyms in the US for the most part have taped routes for roped climbing and bouldering too. I'm not sure what sort of gym that you prefer, but it's pretty much a standard here to tape routes and then grade them. I'm not sure why you would need to memorize a boulder route if they are already taped. Although, there are plenty of instances where people get bored and just start climbing around and wind up making a really good new untaped route that people subsequently will remember. If people like it enough it will get taped up.

The way i know it, someone winds up to make a really nice boulder. You tell it someone else and he/she tries it too. If its good, someone else also tries it, and tells it someone else. so the route simply gets "marked" by word of mouth propaganda. And a week later you come back, and someone tells you a new route, and you realize, "wait, that start, thats my route!" "Wait, No! thats not how i continued!" "Ah, OK, I see. Actually that finish makes more sense than mine. Cool, lemme try!"

In reply to:

we have a gym near me that sets by colored holds and it is terrible. they have white holds and other light colored holds that get covered in shoe rubber and all look the same. they also do bullshit like blue/red = .7 blue =.8 red=.10

luckily they tape their boulder problems.

Try to find certain routes without the tape here Qwert...

how about now?

The horror! thats how plastic is supposed to look:

Bouldering comp: Just "clean" the walls beforehand, and set the routes by color.

noncomp bouldering: Note the lack of tape!

Sorry, those pics arent from the site, but at least the latter one is not that good.

And to make up for my blasphemy - actual discussion of something thats not bad photos, and posting non rc.n00b pics - i did spend some time repenting my sins, and crawled around this sites photo DB.

Its getting really hard to find the really worst offenders, but bad is still and easy catch:

Upside down + mustache! Updside down! (Yeah, i know, those pics arent bad per se - and those routes are amazing, as is the skill to actually climb such routes, but the sheer fact that someone would be stupid enough to climb something like that, makes it bad! (not that i wouldnt want to climb that too, but thats another issue…))

Again, quality aint too bad (wide angle lens?), but "My friends have an air-shaft in their bathroom... I thought I would just pop on in." WHAT?

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

I second that motion.

Also, to everyone in the thread, it would be cool if, when you post the pics, you also post a link to the pic's page, so that we can see comments, info, photographer, etc., and maybe even vote it 5 stars.

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

I second that motion.

Also, to everyone in the thread, it would be cool if, when you post the pics, you also post a link to the pic's page, so that we can see comments, info, photographer, etc., and maybe even vote it 5 stars.

I almost got GU'd! I vote aye on the 10 day suspenshun. And linking to the profile would be a great rule guideline.

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

I second that motion.

Also, to everyone in the thread, it would be cool if, when you post the pics, you also post a link to the pic's page, so that we can see comments, info, photographer, etc., and maybe even vote it 5 stars.

I almost got GU'd! I vote aye on the 10 day suspenshun. And linking to the profile would be a great rule guideline.

Then so be it. I am out of this thread until the 1st of February.

And here is a great pic without link, just to piss y'all off:

qwert

PS: Tape on indoor routes and boulders sucks, and is a sign that only brainless idiots climb at said location!

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

I second that motion.

Also, to everyone in the thread, it would be cool if, when you post the pics, you also post a link to the pic's page, so that we can see comments, info, photographer, etc., and maybe even vote it 5 stars.

I almost got GU'd! I vote aye on the 10 day suspenshun. And linking to the profile would be a great rule guideline.

Then so be it. I am out of this thread until the 1st of February.

And here is a great pic without link, just to piss y'all off: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/468976-largest_For_Whomresized.jpg[/image]

qwert

PS: Tape on indoor routes and boulders sucks, and is a sign that only brainless idiots climb at said location!

as opposed to the brainless idiots that have to set by color and have a limited selection of what holds they can use each route... silly Euro..

Qwert: ten day time-out for posting not-all-that-bad pics in the *Worst* thread. You would've escaped punishment if only you hadn't argued about it, and then posted even *more* not-that-bad pics (the offwidth inverts).

I second that motion.

Also, to everyone in the thread, it would be cool if, when you post the pics, you also post a link to the pic's page, so that we can see comments, info, photographer, etc., and maybe even vote it 5 stars.

I almost got GU'd! I vote aye on the 10 day suspenshun. And linking to the profile would be a great rule guideline.

Then so be it. I am out of this thread until the 1st of February.

And here is a great pic without link, just to piss y'all off: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/468976-largest_For_Whomresized.jpg[/image]

qwert

PS: Tape on indoor routes and boulders sucks, and is a sign that only brainless idiots climb at said location!

as opposed to the brainless idiots that have to set by color and have a limited selection of what holds they can use each route... silly Euro..

I would respond by telling Qwert that he doesnt know what he's talking about, but that would just encourage him to post more in here.