Water Softener and Filter Repairs

Control Valve Repair Made Easy
Most repairs and parts replacements can be done in less than 30 minutes with basic hand tools.
How to repair, trouble shoot, upgrade, rebuild, or replace a water softener or water filtration system.
Frequently asked questions addressed.

Friday, February 11, 2011

The dual set of micro-switched ( one PN 10218 and one PN 16433 ) used on the Fleck 9000, 9100, and 9500 power head ( drive assembly ) can break when the Drive Motor ( old # 14927 or 18738, 120 volt 50/60 Hz ) turns in reverse. This can happen when first activated, or when there are power surges. Replacing the motor is REQUIRED to prevent this from happening in the future. The newer motors ( PN 61633-01 ) are suppose to prevent this, plus they are a little stronger ( although I never had a "strength" problem with the old motors ).

So, if you find both your switched physically broken, then plan on replacing the drive motor at the same time as you replace the switches.

NOTE: The Drive Assembly ( Power Head ) for the 9000, 9100 and 9500 are now the same. Previously the 9500 had a different motor, and triple cam ( 17331 ), but now the assembly uses the same parts for all 3 models. Only the meter label for gallons used is different ( as various meter cover, with various ranges are used ).

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

QUESTION:
How often should you replace the carbon in a whole house unit? My tank measures 10" x 54" and the water coming out is clear and odorless. I called one local company and they told me "never" unless there are problems or a noticeable change in the water quality and that back washing cleans the carbon. I've purchased parts from you folks before for my Autotrol systems. I am looking for an unbiased answer ?
ANSWER:

*** They are on the right track, and much more honest then most companies ( most companies try to get you to do it every year whether it's necessary or not ).

The fact of the matter is,
It Really Depends.

What is the carbon being used for?

What is it "removing" from the water?

And how much of "that" is in the water ( i.e. chlorine, iron, color, hydrogen sulfide odor, etc )?

And how much water is being used ( quantity or number of persons in household )?

** In best cases, the carbon can last 10 years ( in cases where you did not really need the carbon in the first place ).

** In worse cases ( lots of water used, and lots of iron, or chlorine, or hydrogen sulfide in the water ), every year.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Fleck valves use pistons and internal seals to control water flow through the control valve head. When water continuously flows out the drain hose, and the unit has finished the regeneration process ( IN SERVICE position ), it is usually a "bad" or "worn" SEAL, and replacing the Seals & Spacers is required. It is also normal to change the Main Piston at the same time, as age will effect this part over the years, and as long as you have the valve a part, it makes sense to put a new piston in at the same time.

Occasionally, the problem is because the valve is STUCK in Regeneration, and this either means the drive / timer motor has failed, or the valve is in need of new Pistons & Seals due to excessive drag. And this is normal, and comes with age. The harsher the water being treated, the sooner, and more often, this rebuilding would be required to prevent the valve from getting STUCK in one of the regeneration cycles.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Technetic 1000 and Plus 1000i - used Series 1010 Bypass Valve.
And many have / will become cracked and start leaking.

The By Pass ( 1010 ) is obsolete, and no longer available from any known source ( has not been for several years ).

Repair Option:

Remove By Pass, and then you can screw the Adapter Nuts directly to the Threads on the Valve Body. You will find / see these threads on the actual Valve Body, once you remove the defective By Pass. You can continue to use your Technetic control head, only now without having the manufacturer's By Pass valve.

Error Codes mean the circuit board is not getting the "signal" from the switch ( that is riding the Cam Gear ) that it has reach the next Cycle in the proper amount of time.

The circuit board is telling the motor to turn ... sending it power, and the circuit board is programmed to wait for the next "signal" from the switch only so long before it will "sense" there is a problem.

Result is you see an Error Code.

I always recommend checking each component involved, starting with the switch.

Best case, you've got a loose connection in your wiring or the switch is bad.

Worst case, you need a new motor, rotor and seal kit.

** Wiring harness is critical, so be careful inspect the connections to the Switch or Motor ( if it is failing to move ) as there could be a poor connection.

Problem can be corrision of the harness or the pins on the back of the PWA ( timer ) circuit board.

This could include a "cold soldier" joint at the pins where they "attach" to the circuit board.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

If you notice AIR in the water lines the morning after your softener has regenerated, AND the brine water level is normal ( meaning the valve has been sucking the water out and refilling properly ), then the problem is caused by the "air check" failing to close ( check ). For most systems this "air check" is in the salt tank at the bottom of the Brine Pick Up Assembly. Often this is simply a ball that floats inside a cylinder ( that is slotted ). Some use a rod and plunger that seals off the flow ( air ) once the water level reaches the bottom ( as it does normally in the Brine Rinse cycle ).
Why Air Check Is Necessary.

Brine suction / Rinse cycle last 50 minutes.

It takes only 20 minutes to suck out all the salt water.

Valve continues to create suction, while slowly "rinsing" the salt out of the resin tank.

Air Check is what prevents air from getting sucked into the softener's resin tank.

If you get AIR, yours is NOT "checking".

You can try removing and cleaning up, or you can replace with new one.
Our PN FP60002 or BP1002 are two choices that work for many "brands".
For SEARS, NorthStar, GE Smartwater, Whirlpool types, the Brine Assembly is PN 7116488 or 7123689, also called WS15X10005 for GE models.
***
NOTE: If you have this "air" in your water lines problem, and your salt tank is over FULL of water, then you simply have an "air leak" between the Valve and the Brine Pick Up Assembly. The valve is sucking air the whole Brine Rinse cycle, and then adding ( Refill cycle ) for the next regeneration. You will also have hard water, since your resin are not getting "recharged" by the salt water.

The GE Osmonic Autotrol Valves 255 and 268 have been available with the Logix electronic controls for several years now ( 740 and 760, now 742 and 762 ). This 1 minute video shows how to start a manual regeneration for tonight or immediate start.

***

Here are the 740 and 760 programming steps as show in the Owner's Manual.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

* Our minimum $ 6.00 shipping and handling is to help cover the many costs of processing even the smallest order as items under $ 20.00 include very little "profit".We have many expenses that add up. This includes postage for "package" ( not envelope rate ) with delivery confirmation ( or UPS ground which is even more ), the bubbled envelope ( or box we use ), the thermal label, the payment processing fees ( Credit cards run about $ 1.00 minimum ) including shopping "cart" fees ( combined average 5% ), and last but not least is labor ( averaging $ 2.00 per order shipped ). Even the smallest of items cost us at least $ 4.00 to process and ship.

Without the minimum, it would not be profitable to sell small parts or fill low cost single item orders. We would need to have a minimum order size ( as most of our suppliers have ) such as $ 30, $ 50, or $ 100. Or "inflate" the cost of smaller items ( as some of our competitors have done who offer "free shipping" - Note shipping is not really free for anyone ), which would not be fair to our customers who purchase larger quantities of these small items.

Hydrogen sulfide is a gas that causes an obnoxious rotten egg odor in your water. Hydrogen sulfide is caused by rotting and decaying organic matter in the underground aquifer. Hydrogen sulfide ( H2S ) will ruin your silverware, eat holes in copper used in many appliances, and generally stink up your whole house. It is common in all parts of the world, and as a rule, the deeper the well, the more likely it will contain this gas.

Also, the level in the water will change during the coarse of the year ( the dry seasons tend to have higher levels as the water table drops ), and the more water pumped at one time ( things like lawn watering, or even back to back loads of laundry ) will cause the level of hydrogen sulfide to increase.

And the LEVEL ( measured in ppm ) is what determines the type and size of filtration required to remove the odor 100% ( as removing only 99% still results in a bad odor from the water ).

The two methods for removal are Oxidization ( aeration, chlorination, and various oxidizing Media in a tank ), and Absorption ( by activated carbon ), or a combination of the two.

The proper size equipment, levels of chemicals, and frequency of cleaning all depend on the amount of H2S in the water. So, the first thing you need to do, before purchasing or adjusting equipment for removal is to get an accurate test of the level in the water.

This is best done onsite after running the source water for about 5 minutes. Professional water treatment dealers have the test kits to accurately measure the levels in your water source, and will often test for free ( of course they will want to sell you some equipment too ), or kits can be purchased online ( $ 50 - $ 100 is the common price range for a professional kit ).

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Just to confirm. Our softener is WaterSoft model WSCB-32D. I was told by CSI Control, who referred me to you, that the control valve is 255 460I.
* Yes, that is correct 90% of the time. The Valve most commonly used on the WaterSoft model WSCB-32D is simply the common Autotrol 255 series valve and the timer used is the electronic 460i metered demand regeneration control. So, you will find any and all parts for your softener on our website (www.softenerparts.com ).
Just look under Autotrol Repair Parts and sub-category of Autotrol 255 for diagrams and parts. Also, be sure to look at our Do It Yourself Repair pages for service and program information for the 255 valve and the 460i timer used on your Water Soft WS ( water soft ) CB ( cabinet ) 32 ( 32,000 grain = 1 cu.ft. ) D ( demand ) softener.We keep all these parts in stock and will ship your online order within 24 hours.
* NOTE: A few of the later models ( same Water Soft model number ) used the Fleck 5600 SE ( simple electronics ) control valve. We have the parts for this version also.
* Neither the Autotrol 255/460i or Fleck 5600SE Valves have their names on them, so place compare to the photos of these valves to determine which "brand" you have.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

When Water is coming out of the Valve during the Brine Rinse Cycle ( when suction should be drawing water out, NOT putting water in ), there are several things to check / look for as the source of the problem.
********************************
First, NOTE: There are several causes of High Water in the Brine Tank,
see:high-water-in-brine-tank-problems
But if you suspect an internal leak, or you have ruled out simple clogs or loose fitting, then you need to look a little further.
Internal leakage would be visible, in the form of Scratched Main Piston ( any Fleck model ), or damaged ( visibly noticeable ) or dried out ( due to age - over 10 years or more )rubber SEALS ( in the Seals & Spacers area of the Main Piston ), or Visibly cracked Injector Nozzle or Throat ( you must remove BOTH for proper inspection, as it would be either portion damaged ).
see:
Inspecting Injector and Screen video
If the parts check out, then it's time to check out your Drain Flow.
You need to check the flow rate ( at the very END of your drain hose ). It should be 2 gpm ( average 9" diameter tank used, 8" = 1.5 gpm , 10" = 2.4 gpm ) during BACKWASH cycle ( not the Brine Rinse cycle, as that is always 50% less than the BACKWASH flow rate ).
If it is less, then the problem will be either the Drain Hose is partially clogged ( deposits of hardness and iron can build up inside over the years ), OR something is partially blocking the small hole in your DLFC Button.
see this Video on the subject:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvZMkWihusI
The fact that you have water flowing into the salt tank during the suction cycle can only be one of the following:
1 ) Badly scratched ( you would be able SEE this ) Main Piston
2 ) Badly damaged Seal in the main piston area ( or one missing, should be 5 seals and 4 spacers for Fleck 5600 )
3 ) Damaged Injector SET ( either the Nozzle or the Throat behind it is cracked...did you check both? )
4 ) Back pressure from the DRAIN ( either something blocking the DLFC button, or the drain hose it's self )

Monday, January 25, 2010

My glassware in the dishwasher looks spotty, why?
The spotty or etched look is not deposits on the glass.
It is the actual glass being "eaten" by the soap used.
The detergent ( tri-sodium phosphate ) used to wash the dishes is the source of this problem. The combination of too much detergent ( because very little is actually needed when you have a water softener ), and the heat ( temperatures of 140 degrees or higher contribute to this reaction ).
To stop this from happening, you must:
1 ) Use less detergent
2 ) Make sure the water temperature is less than 140 degress.
For more technical answer, see:
http://www.wqa.org/sitelogic.cfm?ID=351

Saturday, January 23, 2010

All Items are Brand New - 99.5% IN STOCK for SAME DAY Shipping We Do Not sell Used, Rebuilt or Refurbished Products.

Orders shipped same business day before 3 p.m. EST by U.S. Mail, or UPS Ground ( heavy items ) for a FLAT Rate of $ 6.00 shipping and handling. You can select Priority Mail ( under 10 lbs. ) or Express Mail ( under 10 lbs. & before 3 p.m. EST )

International Orders Welcomed ( weighing less than 10 lbs.). We offer Shipping by First Class ( 1 - 4 weeks delivery time ) or Express Air Mail ( 5 - 10 days delivery depending on country ). For tracking of package outside USA, you must select Express Mail option. For a QUOTE simply place items in your "Shopping Cart", then fill out your ship to address.NOTE: In many countries you will be required to pay an Import or VAT duty upon delivery. This is NOT included in the price you pay us. It is a tax imposed and collected by your country. To determine the amount you will owe, you will need to check with your local authorities, or you might try this website,Duty Calculator Web Link

Methods of PAYMENT include Credit or Debit Card, PAYPAL, or Money Order Also, we offer a place to enter Order Notes, after entering your name and address info.

The information you enter in this form is secure and encrypted to ensure complete security for all transmitted information.

Orders should be placed using our secure on line shopping cart system. For special requests or for items not listed please contact us by email

We ship from primarily from Florida ( all small parts by U.S. Mail and some large items shipped by UPS ), but also from Ohio, and Arizona for UPS shipments of larger items over 10 lbs ( like Resins and Tanks ).

After Sale Customer Support Phone number Emailed with your Order Receipt.
Non Customers should email their questions and we will assist with answers.
9 a.m. to 7 p.m. EST Monday - Saturday, and Sunday 1 p.m. - 6 p.m.

Only a 15 % restocking fee + shipping and handling cost if return is your mistake ( no restocking fee if the mistake is ours or you make a new "replacement" order with us, because you ended up needing a different part or an upgrade of your valve from us ).

Warranties and replacements are handled through us, not the manufacturer ( though many parts can be warranted through a network of dealers handling Fleck or Autotrol Valves ).

To Return any item, simply ship back by method of your choosing and include a note explaining why you are returning the item. And an email letting us know how and when you ship package back to us, would be appreciated.

All returns must be unused and in unopened original packaging and include all items and manuals originally shipped ( unless it is a part covered under "warranty" and we are exchanging for new working replacement, then we would expect the part returned to be "used", and that's okay. We just don't want any "cartridge filters","RO Membranes", or Sealed Oring Kits returned that are Opened, Noticably Used, or Missing parts or printed directions, if you expect a refund.

Please include your Name and Original Order Number. And don't forget a note explaining why it's being returned. This will help us process your return quickly and issue any refund due.

We will either give you full credit towards an exchange or partial credit APPLIED directly to your credit card, PayPal account or send a refund by check ( whatever method you used to pay us, we will use to issue your refund or credit ).WHEN WILL ORDER BE SHIPPED?We try to ship the same day, if order received in time ( typically before 3 p.m. EST ). When orders include both heavy items and small parts, the order may be divided ( small parts mailed, and heavy items shipped UPS Ground ).

A Shipping Notification with Delivery Confirmation or UPS Tracking Number will be emailed the day your order is shipped. Non Customers should email their questions - free assistance by email. Be sure to check your SPAM or BULK mail folders, as replies from us can end up there ( until you add us to your address book ).

If your system uses one the twin alternating control valves ( common models are Fleck 9000, 9100, 8500, TwinFlo 100E, and Fleck 9500 ), and the Brine Suction cycle is failing to draw up the Brine from the Salt tank when unit is operating off one tank, but okay on the other ( i.e. when on Tank 1, works great, but when switches to tank 2, brine suction is not created ),THEN, the problem is an internal leak of the LOWER Piston & Seals ( or cage rotor on the 8500 ).
Replacing these ( Lower Main Piston and Seals & Spacers Kit - Cage Rotor on 8500 ) should solve the problem.
While a rare problem to have, I just had another customer call about this exact problem. Thus, the new article explaining this unique repair issue.

A Single Tank ( valve on one Resin Tank ) System will also fail to draw brine ( suction of the salt water ) if the valve has internal seal problem. This is more common on the rotary type valves ( Ecowater's valve used in Sears Kenmore, GE Smartwater, North Star, and others ), but can occur on any older ( 10 plus years ) valve, due to worn out Piston & Seal ( Fleck models ) and Valve Disc ( Autotrol Models ). It's one of the half dozen reason listed in our # 1 FAQ article about high water in the brine tank ( because it is not sucking any out ).

Friday, January 22, 2010

Recent Hard Freeze and Colder than normal Winter Temperatures have caused a lot of damage to the sight glass of the Autotrol water softener model 255. So be sure to check this part if you are having problems with high water in the brine tank, and no soft water in the home since these extreme low temperatures. The Air Check - New Style ( kit 1032416 or 1032417 = Air Check Kit, 1/4" Male ) used from about 1993 to present. Can NOT be used in place of the old style ( see part # AP36F ). Used only on late model Autotrol 155 and all 255 water softener valves.

The part number on the Air Check body is listed in some manuals as 100C142-001 and some as 1031939.

Previous part # 1032416 is listed as 1032417 in newer owners manuals for this Kit having 1/4" male thread output connection most commonly used, AND includes ( 1 ) clear air check body,(1 )black floating ball,(2 ) long screws, o-ring, and tube of silicone.

NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ). It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.

Typically,
9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks,
and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average.
If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm )
or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ),
then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.

So, an average residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt per month if hardness is not too high, or amount of water used low.
Well water ( usually very hard and often containing iron ) will commonly require using 80 - 120 lbs. of salt per month.
Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.

P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt.
I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank.
When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ).
* Does it matter which type of salt is used? Pellets or solar salt crystals? Is one better than the other?

* Either will work.

Recommend the solar salt crystals as they dissolve 100%, as opposed to the Pellets that leave an un-dissolved residue in the bottom of the brine tank. And this residue builds up until is clogs the float of the brine water in and especially, out of the salt tank. Requiring that the tank be dumped, emptied, and re-filled with new salt ( plus 4 gallons new water ) every 1 - 2 years on average.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life
time ( 20 + years ). However, chlorinated "city" water is known to break down the resins in as little as 5 years

2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a
high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors
from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for
months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight (
Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.

3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can necessitate resin replacement.For more Info: Check out the
Resin Replacement Guide

Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it?
Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from
the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the resin tank.
3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare.
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water.
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank.

The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of high capacity ( 8 % cross link )
softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide exact resin tank dimensions. And we have common tank sizes and capacity chart on our Resin Replacement Guide web page
The second most common reason for pressure loss occurs with Autotrol control valves.
The flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow
rates. To see an example go here
The solution for this problem is to replace the valve discs set and the backwash flow control ball ( this part also swells up ). See Autotrol Parts Page

My softener does not remove the water from my salt tank
when it regenerates.
What should I check?

1. Make sure all the fittings are tight. Also check the tubing going to the
salt tank for small cracks. Any air leak will cause the valve to
not draw the water out during the regeneration cycle.

2. Make sure the drain line is not clogged or restricted. This also can cause the valves normal suction to fail.

3. Check the injector and injector screen for debris or clogging.

4. On Autotrol valves, check that the two large main valves ( # 2 and # 3 ) are fully closed during the Brine Rinse ( Draw ) cycle. If they fail to close, it results in no suction. In fact it will result in the valve attempting to fill the salt tank during the time it should be removing the salt water. This could be caused by something near the metal "tab" blocking the "tab" from standing straight up ( closing the rubber valve underneath, inside ),
OR you could have something inside preventing full closure. On older valves, this can be caused by chlorine damage to the rubber valve discs. See the Rebuild guides on our Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Repairs page for more about the Valve Discs functions and how to replace them. For Piston Assembly or Rotor Disc Valves, the problem can be caused by internal leaks due to wear or damaged Pistons, Rotor, and especially the Seals they contact with in the control valve. Replacement guides for common types will be found on our DIY repairs page.

5. If your Resin Tank is INSIDE the Brine Tank ( one piece "cabinet" design popular in Europe and the U.S.A. ), you may have a leak in the RESIN TANK.
Try unplugging the electric, so the Valve can NOT regenerate, and see if the water level continues to Rise from one day to the next.

6. Also check for leaking of the Brine Valve, which should be closed after the Brine Refill is completed. You can disconnect the Brine tubing at the Control Valve end to make sure the Valve is not sending any water to the Brine Tank area ( this could occur if the # 1 Valve Disc ( on Autotrol Valves ) or Brine Piston Assembly ( on Fleck Valves ) or Internal Seal leak ( on Rotor Disc type valves ) is being held open by debris of some kind or is very worn due to age.

Be sure to check out the Do It Yourself page on our website, and read more on this BLOG for additional helpful information.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

delivery. However, when I open the package it certainly looked like this is a

used part. The paper label on the venturi nozzle assembly 7187065 is

not readable. Also some water was still inside the assembly (is that from

testing the part?). When I opened the assembly the gasket has "visible

channels" which the Kenmore troubleshooting web site says is a sign of a bad

gasket (see attached document - screen shot from www.kenmorewater.com/website/animations/product-animation/ts_index.html ). Am I out of line on these questions?

* I can understand your concerns, but the product is not used, only "tested".

Ecowater ( the manufacturer for all the "brands" that sell this type valve ) Tests Every Nozzle Venturi Assembly prior to shipping to us. They come to us WET and 1/2 full of water EVERY TIME.

The result is damage to paper label. And we try to shake the water out as best we can before shipping to you. Not much else we can do about the labels ( may be we should remove them completely? ).

*** And the "channels" form in the rubber gasket shortly after assembly. They are not a defect. We sell hundreds of these, and they all come the way you describe.

The cracked, brittle, and deep channeling as described in the document you attached is not the same a the minor grooves in the new rubber gasket.

The older gaskets were actually pressed card board like material, and did not hold up well. That is why ( many years ago ) they switch to the Duro 70 rubber gasket materials ( holds up much better / longer ).

Monday, September 21, 2009

1. Turn off water, unplug control valve from electric outlet, disconnect control valve from water lines, and drain line.

2. Unscrew control valve ( may require two people ) from Tank.

3. Remove control valve and distributor tube ( the two normally can be separated at the control valve, as the pipe is only connected to the valve by an o-ring ).

********** EMPTYING the TANK

4. Now the fun part. Depending on your situation ( size and location of your tank ), you need to either dump the water and Media ( carbon, birm, calcite, and gravel ) out OR use suction to remove them ( shop vac, or other means ).

5. You can clean the inside of the tank with chlorine ( bleach ) if you feel it needs it. If you need to scrub the inside of the tank, use a clean toilet bowl brush with piece of pipe to extend the handle.

******** REFILL with NEW Media.

6. a. The next step is to replace the center distributor pipe into tank.

6. b. Then you pour a 4-6 inch layer of fine gravel ( 1/8" x 1/4" ) into the tank. Remember, you MUST have the distributor tube in the tank before you start filling with gravel. **** Be sure you cover the top opening of your distributor tube to prevent any gravel from getting inside. A plastic sandwich bag and rubber band works well.
Now you will slowly pour in the Media ( carbon, calcite, birm, etc ). The tank should be 50 - 65 % full when you are done.

7. Now do steps 3,2,1 in reverse ( put valve back on tank, screw on by hand, and reconnect pipes and power ).

8. Once reassembled you should backwash for 10 minutes using your control valve ( All control valves have some way to manually advance the valve to backwash ). You can allow the valve to run a complete regeneration cycle, but it is not needed. You are just "cleaning" or "rinsing" the "dust" off the new media.

9. With the control valve in the normal "service" position, run the water in the home for a few minutes to clear the lines of any "trapped" air or debris loosened during your repair.

** Or for a quick adapter, you can use 2" length of 3/4" PVC pipe, which has an O.D. of 1.05" ( and you must use the common Schedule 40 to have the I.D. needed to fit tightly over your 13/16" O.D. pipe ) and glue ( PVC cement ) over the top your current 13/16" pipe, and this will become your "adapter". Remove a little water from the tank before attempting to use the PVC cement.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

The GE Osmonic Autotrol Valves 255 and 268 have been available with the Logix electronic controls for several years now ( 740 and 760, now 742 and 762 ). This 1 minute video shows how to start a manual regeneration for tonight or immediate start.

Monday, June 15, 2009

The softener stops just short of where it needs to for the fill and brine cycles. On the valve body the indicator is to the left of the letter slightly past mark, but it still needs a little bit more to make the fill and brine work. What's up with this? Is this a problem with the rotor and stem having "stretched" from being so hard to turn?

* No

*ANSWER:

You can make it work by taking the micro-switch and moving the bend of the "arm" out farther, so it lets the Cam Gear turn 1/32" further and thus reaches the correct position to engage the proper cycle in the regeneration process.

** This solution is the only one I can think of, as the switch is what "tells" the circuit board that the Cam Gear has reached the point it's "suppose" to stop at.

You could replace the switch, but there is no guaranty the new switch would not behave the same.

I've looked at a newer model of the SmartWater softener, and they have the bend further down the arm, exactly where it needed to be, to correct the cycle position problem.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

The number one reason for low water flow from a reverse osmosis system is low air pressure in the holding tank.

( Note: Reason number two is clogged pre-filter, so check that too ).

The Problem: Low Volume and Poor PressureLittle to No air pressure will result in very little water being pushed out of the holding tank. You will have a full and heavy holding tank, but without the air pressure, you'll never get much water out of the tank. Too much air pressure ( say over 10 psi on a small tank ) will result in good water flow but will severely limit the amount of water that can be stored in the holding tank. So, it is recommended to put 8 psi of air in your under the sink reverse osmosis holding tank. If you get water coming out of the air valve, then it is time to purchase a new holding tank.

To Check:With all possible water drained from the holding tank, you want to get an air pressure reading of 8 PSI of air pressure. There is a "tire" valve on your holding tank somewhere ( usually the bottom ). You really should use a special low pressure air gauge. One that shows the air pressure in one pound increments starting with one pound. The average tire gauge starts at 5 or 10 lbs. psi.

Tank Replacement Questions and Answers:

Do you just hook up the tank and start using it? If not, will it come with instructions?

* Simply turn off the RO incoming water, open your RO faucet to relieve any pressure. Disconnect tubing at the Tank shut off.

* You will unscrew the shut off elbow that is on your old tank and you can re-use it on your new tank.

Just be sure to use about 3 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new tank,

AND do not over tighten the elbow fitting, or you will crack it.

We sell new shut off elbows, and they should be available locally where ever plumbing supplies are sold.

The thread size on the tank is called 1/4" mpt. And the tubing size connection will be either 1/4" or 3/8" O.D. ( depends on what size your system uses, both are common ).

* Also note, the tank comes pre-charged. You should not need to add any air to it.

* Check your plate to see if it is FLAT or "beveled". If FLAT look for the washer, or order one ( or a new metal plate ).

* If you have the newer mounting plate already, then the problem could be you do not have it securely ( or completely ) screwed down into the plastic housing ( or the plastic at one of the 2 screws is cracked ).

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

I have increased the chlorine and it seems to be doing the trick. Thanks for all your help. One last question, what did you mean by; Are you using extra water for irrigation lately? The irrigation water is drawn prior to the treatment system. How could that be a contributing factor?

** The more water used from the Well, the higher the concentration of hydrogen sulfide you will be "pulling up" from the ground.

Some people have "no" odor, except when they use 50 - 100 gallons or more. And any Well that has hydrogen sulfide already, will have a higher concentration coming from the Well as the water demand increases ( i.e. watering the lawn, filling the swimming pool ) and as the actual water table in the ground drops ( during "dry spells" ).

Once the summer rains begin, and the water table rises back to normal levels, and less water is used, then the level of hydrogen sulfide in the water drops back to "normal" levels.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

I have a Autotrol 155 which seems to have a low flow rate while in the service mode. This was noticed over a few days due to an electric shower which was unable to operate correctly (either the water was cold or boiling hot) as the flow rate dropped below the shower units operational pressure. One last thing that has been noticed; when there is no other water usage in the house, you can turn a tap/faucet on, the water comes out at full pressure but quickly drops off to a very low flow. If the unit is bypassed then the normal pressure is restored. The unit has been installed for approximately 17 years.

Is there any advice you can shed some light on with?

*** If the water source is chlorinated, it could be the Resin in the tank are breaking down into fine fragments and clogging the bottom distributor.

They can easily be replaced, and this would restore normal flow rates.

OR if the Timer Assembly is not DOWN and LOCKED in by the Timer Retaining Pin ( 5F ) or the Out Put Connector on the Back of the Timer Assembly is cracked ( 21E ), then the camshaft may not be holding open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow proper flow through the Valve.

Friday, May 1, 2009

I began by removing the cover of the front of the control module. A
thorough examination revealed the two micro switches I mentioned in
earlier correspondence.

See picture 001 notice the red rectangle in the lower left. The micro
switches are activated by cylinder shaped device by it’s rotation. See
picture 002 Notice the little rusty screw(green arrow). That screw
allows you to turn the cylinder with out turning the worm gear or the
valve body. You see in picture 003 exactly how this occurs. If you
depress the micro switch the motor will turn.

I simply used the plug to stop and start the motor until the valve body
was in the closed position and then loosened the screw and rotated the
cylinder until the cylinder until the recess was at the button on the
micro switch. This has seemed to put everything where it needs to be for
proper operation.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

After installing new flapper valve disc set in my Autotrol Valve, I checked the function before powering up timer. The values all seemed to work. I then turned the water flow back on and have a flow from the drain line. I removed the cam and checked the flapper by hand each seems to close and open properly.What is your suggestion?

** One of the Rear Valve Discs is not sealing ( last 2 are the Backwash, and the 3rd from last is Purge - Forward Rinse ).

This could be debris that flowed up into the head, or it could be cracked plastic inside the valve body where the valve disc "rest" and "seal" when closed ( standing straight up ).

** Recommend removing top plate ( all those little screws on top ) and valve discs ( they pull straight up and out ) and make a close inspection with a flash light for any signs of debris, or a cracked "port" inside the valve body.

** Repair may be as simple as clearing the debris ( which can be media from the tank, or some other odd thing ), or if valve body is cracked, then the valve body will need to be replaced ( if still available ), or complete valve head can be replaced by compatible current version of a similar Autotrol Valve. Email us for further assistance if this is the case ( cracked internal valve port ).

Saturday, March 21, 2009

If the water's pH is less then nuetral ( 7.0 ), then correction is required to prevent the water from corriding the metal in your plumbing.

Most common "symptoms" are blue stains from dissolved copper pipes, and iron staining problems from the water dissolving any iron ( in pipes or pumps or well casings ) that is has come in contact with.

A filter tank ( usually 10" x 54" ) is filled with either Calcite or Corosex ( Magnesium Oxide ).

Both are used to "raise" the pH of water that is acidic.

Which one and how much to use depends on the pH of your water. Calcite ( which is really just cushed marble ) dissolves slowly and is used when the pH is between 6.0 - 6.8 to raise to 7.0 - 7.5.

If the starting pH of the source water is less then 6.0, then Corosex may be needed as it dissolves faster.

And it is common to use a "mix" of 50/50 Calcite and Corosex.

These are media that must be ADDED to the Filter Tank every year ( anywhere from 6 months to no more than 2 years ).

And the way to "tell" is by checking the pH before and after the filter tank.

Also, you can measure the amount of media in the tank.

Normally the tank should be "filled" to about 60% full ( and not more, or you end up with media clogging the Valve during Backwash ), and not less than 30% full.

And note, there is always 5 - 8 inches of gravel used at the bottom of the tank as an "under bedding".

Occasionally the media becomes hard, and must be dumped and refilled with "fresh" media.

Or it becomes iron "fouled" and a complete re-bedding is the best way to improve the water quality.

This type of filter tank is almost always followed by a water softener used to remove the "hardness" added by the filter tank ( as the media dissolves it increases the hardness in the water ), and the softener can help remove iron that is often in the water.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

For the fastest assisting with trouble shooting your water softener / filter problem, we strongly encourage you email us. Please include your brand or valve type, and a description of the problem and what you have tried so far to solve it.

* Please email if you need additional product information before ordering.
Email will be answered daily ( Our staff of technicians answer the emails through out the day and late into the night ), so please send your questions.

******************** Emailed questions works well, because we can usually provide a WRITTEN answer quickly by referring to answers on the website. So expect to get one or more LINKS to the information you need. These also include video guides. 95% of all inquiries are similar, and we have the ANSWER already somewhere on the website. These thought out answers to common problems and questions will be supplied to you by email, and you will have plenty of time to absorb the information and then write back if you have specific questions or you require additional information.

The Second reason email is prefered, is time factor ( much quicker - allowing us to respond to the needs of more people in any given day ). It is easier to answer a question once in written form as opposed to repeating the answer 3 times on the phone ( as has sometimes been the case ).

Again, we prefer you email us as oppose to phoning us, because the volume of inquiries otherwise becomes impossible to properly manage.
* All customers are instantly given our customer support phone number with their online receipt at the end of Check Out.

* So, I encourage you to email your questions or concerns. You'll generally be surprised how fast you get a reply.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Thanks for your help. The problem is described in detail below, but the short version is that I couldn't get the Potassium Permanganate to draw during the regeneration cycle, even after I checked the injection valves. Your advice was essentially, "check them again, because they're the problem 99% of the time". So I did, and you were right. I'm writing this email to give you some feedback which may help others.

The green sand system - when I first checked the injection valve, it appeared clear. I could see a nice round hole. BUT, I didn't suspect that although I could see a hole, that it should have been Bigger. When I inspected the second time, I again saw the hole, but used probe to scrape the walls and found a uniform crusty buildup. When cleaned, the hole was twice the diameter! It now draws fine.

CUSTOMER INPUT that might help some BINDING issues ( when no visible damage is observed after taking valve a part and inspecting all the plastic parts ).
Just for your information, in case some one else experiences this.
After tearing this unit apart a couple of times, and not seeing any damage, and it still not cycling properly and hanging up.
I noticed that on the Main Gear and Shaft, pn # 13170, there was a powder residue, where it seemed to have been rubbing against the housing bore.
I took some silicon grease and lubricated the shaft.
Now for the past month and a half or more I have not had the unit stop, or lose time again.

I have a Kenmore water softener with a few problems. I replaced the motor a few months ago. Worked fine until recently. I got a error 3 code, which I believe is motor torque. I removed the motor and still has the code after clearing it. Any ideas?

* Motor failure is sometimes caused by the "drag" caused by the Rotor Disc and Seal Kit.

It is often NECESSARY to Rebuild the moving parts and not just replace the motor when stalling occurs.

It could be shipped with a Base ( no extra charge ), and stand next to your brine cabinet, or without base in the cabinet, but you would have to leave the top off, as the new height would be much taller than your small cabinet.

And you could technically double your resin capacity to One Cu.Ft. with this tank ( that is what "normal" size cabinet softeners use, 10" x 35" and 1 cu.ft. resin ).

And you could use the free standing ( with base ) 8" x 44" tank and use up to 3/4 cu.ft. of resin.

And if you ever need parts for your valve, they would be listed under Fleck 5600 parts, or some items are "special" for the SE ( simple electronics ) version, and would be best "Searched" using the term "5600SE" in the product search box.