PREPPING AN INDIAN FIGHTER KITE

When you enter a kite shop and see Indian fighters with
bridles, or what appear to be bridles on them, chances are they are not
for you. With one exception I can think of, Indian fighter
kites are not flight ready off of the shelf; bridled or not.
Store owners string the kites up for reasons more business oriented
than for the convenience sake of their. customers.
If you require a flight ready Indian kite, ask your dealer
for a "Stafford Wallace" kite. Check the back of
the kite at the tail for a sticker that includes the word "
Staffordized". These kites have been prepared and
test flown so they will fly right out of the package.
If you choose to go it on your own - so you still have enough change
left over from your 'twenty' to grub divine at Wendy's, Keep readin'.

All you have to do is reinforce areas susceptible to
tearing, bridle, balance, form the spine and stress relieve.
Find out if your kite shop can get quality kites that measure from
between 15 inches and 20 inches wide. This size range
is more conducive to western tastes. If your looking for
an Indian style manjha truck, buy kites that measure at least 23
inches wide. For durability sake, avoid kites with overly
decorative applique`. Tell your dealer you want them
un-bridled.

Reinforce the nose and tail of the kite using 3/4 inch
clear Scotch tape. Over lap three or four pieces on the
nose to protect in the event of a crash. One or two pieces
on the tail ought to do it. Arrange these tapes so they
stick to both sides of the sail. The tapes can be applied
so they alternate both directions, up and down - back and forth, but
make sure at least one tape on the nose and tail goes over the end
of the spine.

In the area of the kite sail where the nose-leading-edge
section meets the bow, there should be paper, Mylar or foil
reinforcements. Tape over them with 1 inch long pieces.
Arrange these tapes so they are stuck to both sides of
the sail, over the bow.

Stick a 1 inch long piece over the spine (back of kite)
just under where the bow crosses. Center the tape over
the spine and under the bow. This will be the upper
bridle point.

Place your finger on the spine of the kite and find the
balance point. Identify the point between your finger and
the apex of the tail fin. 1 inch toward the tail from
that point is where the lower bridle leg will be. Stick a
1 inch long piece of tape over the spine (back of kite) at this point.

With a darning needle and 2 1/2' feet of heavy (9 lbs.)
cotton button thread, sew through the front of the kite, two wraps
around the point where the spine and bow meet. Make sure
the thread goes around both spine and bow. Tie a single
overhand knot followed by a double overhand knot, snug but not too
tight. Center the knot directly over the spine at the front
of the kite. The remainder of the thread should drape down
the front of the kite.

Sew through the front of the kite, two wraps around the
spine at the lower bridle point. The entire bridle length
should not allow the wing tips to pass through. Single
overhand, double overhand, snug but not too tight - center the knot
directly over the spine on the front of the kite.

Glue the knots. Using Elmers craft bond, or
like water soluble flexible drying glue, goop on a little glue front
and back to the lower leg and the front only at the upper leg.
Let dry and trim the thread tails to about 1 inch.
(Tow loop later)

Do this next operation in a draft free area.
Hang the kite by the bridle so the spine is level with the floor.
In all probability the wing tips will not be level.
The high wingtip is the light side and the low wingtip
is the heavy side. Add small bits of tape just under the
bow - at the back of the sail - on the light side until the wingtips
begin to level. Now add appropriate amounts of tape (over
the bow) to both sides (front and back) of the sail at the wingtips
until the balance is um, "perfect". This both
balances and reinforces.

Make a loop with 9 lbs. button thread. The
loop stretched out should be about 3 inches long. Larks
head the loop onto the bridle. I like to apply the loop
so the knot does not obstruct the bridle or the section where the
flying line hooks on.

Up to now, you have already done considerable work, so
let's take it easy during this next operation. It means
the difference between a kite and a wall hanging. Hold
the kite at the nose and tail so you are looking at the spine on the
back. Slowly draw the kite spine back and forth over the
head or knee while applying slight bending pressure. Listen
very carefully for cracking sounds. If pressure is not
relieved when cracking sounds are heard, they are oft followed by a
distinct 'snap'. Impart a slight curve to the kite spine.
The majority or deepest part of the curve should be
between the center balance point and the area where the spine meets bow.

If that went o.k., it may be safe to bend the nose back
a little. Lay the kite on its front. Place
your finger alternately on either side of the bow along the spine to
use as a fulcrum. Gently bend the nose section back
incrementally; just a little. Whew!

Flip the kite over and hold it above the surface of a
table by the tow loop. Adjust the position of the tow
loop until the tail just touches the table and the nose hovers 1
inch +/- above. Lock down the larks head.

OK, let's get vertical. Test fly the kite by
doing horizontal and vertical sweeps at an altitude no less than 20
ft. If your kite will not climb well, adjust the tow loop
up in slight increments. Get those sweeps going and check
for straight tracking. Give the kite some time so as not
to be confused by other variables; gusts, bumpy air etc. There are no
guarantees the bow will have a symmetrical spring rate.
Example: If on a climb you notice a turning tendency to the left,
the bow is stronger on the right side as you view the front of the
kite. To stress relieve the bamboo bow, hold the kite
viewing the back side. Hook your pinky over the leading
edge on the strong side, so you can massage the bow with the thumb
between the spine and the nose-leading-edge reinforcements.
Stroke back and forth (its kind of like strip milking a cow) and test
fly. Repeat as necessary.