Glow plug keeps burning out

Kenmore wall mounted gas oven with broiler we replaced the glow plug less than 6-months ago and it already burned out. do you think that there could have been something wrong with the glow plug and its just a coincidence or something else ?

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Take a look at the element ( the "tube" inside the oven that glows red hot when the oven is turned on). If the element is burned out it will not be hot and glowing. You may have a loose connection to the element but most likely it is burned out and needs replacing.Our stove is 27 years old and I have had to replace top or bottom elements every 6 years or so. I just bought a replacement element at Canadian Tire in Calgary for about $34. Just undo the 2 screws around the element and attach the new element to the old wires.Good Luck -I hope this works for you

Hello there:It doesn't
bake
Bake igniter
When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not
bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's
about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in
round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's
probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note:
one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic
mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual
mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is
probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve
would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must
be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there
are others:

If you are certain the igniter is ok, it might be a good idea to
call a professional appliance technician.

Need a new oven igniter? Click here for most common oven igniters or enter your oven model number in our PART SEARCH.
^ topIt doesn't
broilBroil igniter
When the broil igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would
not broil. The broil igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner.
It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes
in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all,
it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to
automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven
to manual mode and check again.

If the broil igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is
probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve
would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must
be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there
are others:

Well there are other parts that control the igniter,but if you can remove the igniter and look for any cracks.Most are hard to find so you may need a magnifying glass.Any crack no matter how small will keep it from glowing.The gas will not flow until the photo senser has detected the igniter glowing for several seconds.You can get a parts breakdown at SearsPartsDirect.com.Well hope this helps.

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

Localwonder gave a more comprehensive answer, but I wanted to share my recent related experience too:
Same model: MGR5750BDW
Oven was not heating up, or would sometimes and not others. Broiler worked fine. The nice thing is that the broiler igniter and the oven igniter are the same part. So I swapped them until I could get a replacement part.
Before I did anything, I turned off the gas!
To take out the broiler igniter: there's one screw right near the front of the oven that holds the burner assembly in place. Remove that, gently pull the assembly off the gas nozzle off to the left. Then where the wires from the igniter go into the back wall, remove the screw that holds the little door, remove that little door, and then gently pull the wires through until the connector comes through the opening. I also found you can go behind the stove, remove the back panel (which is easy) and see the igniter's connector.
The oven one: remove the floor of the oven by lifting it at the back, and then lift it out towards the back of the oven. Then you can see the igniter at the back of the floor of the oven. remove the two mounting screws, and then gently pull the wires until the connector comes through the insulation.
The bad igniter looked like it had burned down to bare metal in a big patch...not sure if that's the actual problem, but in any event, I installed the good igniter in the bottom (gently pushing the reconnected connector through the insulation, and feeding as much of the wires down in there as well), and the bad igniter in the broiler position (since that was the easiest one to access and replace, it'll be easy enough to replace when I get the parts). Tested, and everything worked great. And I could watch the bad igniter light up, and never light, confirming that it was the igniter itself that was the problem.
The best part, for this stove anyway, -- the ONLY tool needed was a #2 phillips screwdriver. Really. All told, maybe an hour of work, nothing intense. And free -- so if they both worked, it would have spared me ordering a part that didn't need to be replaced!

You are probably right though often the ignitor will glow, but just not hot enough for the valve to open. I would definitely try replacing the ignitor first, it is much cheaper than the gas valve and those valves rarely go bad. It is possible that the thermostat is not sending 120V to the valve, and thus the ignitor but less likely.

Remove the flame spreader panel to access the ignitor.
Place a clamp on amp meter on the ignitor wire and turn the oven on.
If you read less than 2.9 amps, replace the ignitor.
If you read 2.9 to 3.2 amps replace the gas safety valve.

Hi and welcome.Just because you see a glowing ignitor that does not mean it is "good". You need to check the circuit amperage to be sire. Weak ignitor are ultra-common for the appliance technician to see. The minimum amperage required to open the gas valve is around 2.9 amps. if you have access to an amprobe, read the amperage draw thru one of the ignitor's lead and you will see very quickly if it is good or not. Bad oven valves are much less likely than a weak ignitor. Many do-it-yourselfers replace the oven valve because they see the ignitor is glowing and assume that the ignitor must be good.

Jrzy, even though you can see the bake igniter glowing, that doesn't mean it's good. Igniters actually get weak (unlike a light bulb that simply burns out). It's hooked up in series to a safety valve (the valve that allows main gas into the oven) which actually reads the amps flowing through the igniter. If the igniter is weak and the amps are too low, the valve won't open up.
Replace your igniter and you'll be cookin' with gas again.
Tip---> before you unscrew your old igniter, put a little liquid dish soap on the threads for lubrication. This'll ensure it comes out with no problems.