I started my session alone (there was some angry locals but they just stayed on the dunes..). I got some really clean waves. Some sets were more than 2m. The others were 1.5 to a good 2m. I have done good carving and get nearly tubed !

After one hour, surfers started to come but I managed to get all the waves I wanted.

This was the north shore GOING OFF! All the waves were at least double overhead with huge pits. I got a few GREAT rides before a nasty wipeout screwed up my left shoulder (and my board). Ended my session early (couldn't paddle). This was EPIC!

First experience with the north shore. Awesome board from the rental shop. Maggie surfs too, she takes a lesson. Turtle Bay is a great break, right point break with lots of sharp coral on the inside. Got my foot cut up, permanent scar, on the coral.

I decided to go to surf just at the middle of day. The morning was cloudy with some rain. But at lunch, the sun went out and the webcams showed good waves.

When I called the report, they said that the swell was rising rapidly... I arrived at Le Pin Sec but it was too big:2m - 3m perfect !

I went to Le Gurp and I found really good waves. But there was some localism: we were only 7 surfers !! The locals of Le Gurp haven't changed in 10 years. They have attacked 3 surfers for no reason. Only stupidity. (for myself, I kept an idiot smile)

There were some bombs on this day!!! the wave were sick!!! Not to crowded cuz most people were scared to paddle out! couple of pro were killing it tho. guys like Kekoa Balcalso, Dustin Cuizon, Jack Johnson and his brothers! Overall awesome surf, the kind of surf that make the blood flow!!

disaster. I ate sand. I got pounded. my dad even quit trying. the next day the surf knocked a pier piling off of Crystal Pier - right under our cottage! Good thing Pacific Beach is a fun town, because surfing wasnt due to really BIG waves.

The "Wind in the Willows" indeed. The past few days we have had a fire-storm in Southern California fanned by howling offshore Santa Sana winds blowing from the deserts and funneled through the mountain passes and canyons.

"Winds had calmed Monday morning, allowing firefighters to make gains on two raging wildfires that destroyed hundreds of homes and forced thousands of residents to flee. Wind gusts had peaked at more than 70 MPH at the height of the fires over the weekend, but on Sunday they had weakened to about 25 mph, the National Weather Service said. The fires that started Thursday night and burned in Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Orange, San Bernardino and Riverside counties, have burned nearly 41,000 acres or 64 square miles. A major aerial attack on Sunday raised containment to 40 percent. More than 26,000 people had evacuated from Orange County alone.

Meanwhile, a 10,000-acre fire that hit hard in the Sylmar area of northern Los Angeles on Saturday had moved into the Placerita Canyon area of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains and was still burning vigorously, but well away from homes. It was also 40 percent contained. The Santa Barbara-area fire that swept through tony Montecito has burned 1,940 acres and was 95 percent surrounded Monday.

Far away from the flames, the smell of smoke pervaded metropolitan Los Angeles. Downtown skyscrapers were silhouettes in an opaque sky. Ash fell like rain at thebeach and concerns about air quality kept many people indoors. Organizers on Sunday canceled a marathon in suburban Pasadena where 8,000 runners had planned to participate.

Officials warned of another bad air day on Monday, and classes were canceled at dozens of schools near the fire zones in Orange County."

Went out at Bolsa Chica Saturday, wind was just howling offshore with a curtain ofblowing spray. Combined with an incoming massive 7 foot high tide conditions were sketchy to say the least! You had to paddle like crazy, take off deep and critical then the backwash jumped up the face into a vertical drop!

Got a couple of nice tubes with the wind holding the door open to blue sky, or should I say, red sky. On one backhander looked out and saw yellow sand. I had ran out of ocean. Aaaaaaaaaaaagh!

Caught a big outside peak, faded into it, then hard off the bottom staying low out of the wind and got bounced across the side chop on the face like a Model T-Ford on a dirt road!

This morning the wind was gone but the tide was still huge. Caught a couple of nice solid left hand peaks, critical take-off then pump hard as the backwash jacked up the wall. On my last wave got a nice nose ride on my forehand (without blowing it) been riding backhand all summer at 'The River' backpeddled, then stalled the tail as the wave held up all the way to the sand. Stood right on the back of the board, leaned back, pushed the nose up out of the water, took the drop and rode the board fin dragging all the way up the tide surge to the dry sand then stepped off ... I was impressed ... but a young girl on the beach just looked at me like I was nuts!

alot of fun, I heard it was nice all day but I didn't get out till 3:30 but it was nice kept up with the tide coming in. The lefts lined up pretty good with a couple of peaks here and there plus the occassional barrel would form from the sandbar if it hit it right. Took the long board but that was only 'cause my shorty is in the shop. As long as the wind does'nt start howling we may have a nice swell for the weekend.

Indian summer is a name given to a period of warm dry sunny weather in autumnor winter. Usually occurring after the first frost. Indian summer can be as early as September or as late as January in the northern hemisphere. It can persist for a few days or extend to a week or so.

The term is also used metaphorically to refer to a late blooming of something, often unexpectedly, or after it has lost relevance. This is comparable to the use of the termrenaissancein the sense of "revival" but it carries the added connotation that the revival is temporary. It may also be so named because this was the traditional period during which the early Native Americans harvested their crops of squash and corn.

It is usually associated with the Santa Ana winds (also known as Santana winds) which are strong, extremely dry offshore winds that characteristically sweep through the canyons and passes of the Sierra Nevada mountains into Southern California and northern Baja California in late fall into winter. They can range from hot to cold, depending on the prevailing temperatures in the source regions, the Great Basin and upper Mojave Desert. However, the winds are remembered most for the hot dry weather they bring in the fall and winter often fanning huge wildfires.

Today was one of those champagne days of Indian Summer. Perfect conditions, warm dry light offshore's ... 85F air and 65F water! Surf was small, only knee to waist but super clean with some fast little snappers across the sandbar at low tide!