Like a brooding rock star, pinot noir grapes live on the edge. Fickle and thin-skinned, they are prone to sunburn, which is why the grapes thrive in cool climates such as Oregon's Willamette Valley.

The American Viticultural Area (AVA) runs from Portland in the north to Eugene in the south. In 2002, the 5,000-plus-square-mile region was divided into six specific AVAs. Together, they reflect some of the most serious pinot noir production outside of Burgundy. As tempting as it is to crack open these bottles with some fantastic, truffle-topped dish, I'd plan to age any one of these at least five years.

Domaine Drouhin 2010 Willamette Valley pinot noir: French winemaker Véronique Drouhin has crafted a wine with dried cherry and violets on the nose and palate. The cool 2010 vintage shows in this wine's balance and bright acidity. Domaine Drouhin operates in Burgundy as well. $40

Evening Land Vineyards 2010 pinot noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Seven Springs Vineyard, La Source: First established on the Sonoma Coast, this winery also produces pinot noir from Oregon's Eola Hills (they also have a Burgundy operation). The wine has aromas of blackberries, rose and lavender. On the palate, the tannins are soft with a long finish of tart cherries and crushed rocks. $60

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REX HILL 2010 Willamette Valley pinot noir. This pinot from one of the state's largest producers proves you don't have to cash in your 401(k) to pick up an Oregon pinot. It has aromas of wild strawberries and tobacco leaf and ripe tannins with a kick of raspberries and blueberries. It's intense. $35

Brooks Wines 2009 Temperance Hill pinot noir: The first vintage of this single-vineyard wine made from biodynamically farmed grapes in the Eola Amity Hills is filled with aromas and flavors of fresh pomegranate, raspberry, and a slightly smoky finish. $45

Yamhill Valley Vineyards 2009 Tall Poppy pinot noir: The folks behind this McMinnville winery only make and release this wine in outstanding vintages -- that's six times in 27 years. Because 2009 was a warm vintage, this pinot noir is robust with flavors of sweet berries, aromas of mocha, good acid, and medium tannins. They call it their Mercedes-Benz of pinot noirs. $75