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It's not supposed to rain in paradise, but even in a place like Fiji those famous blue skies can sometimes be overcast and grey. While the rainfall may dull the island nation's famed natural beauty, it can't do anything to dampen the welcoming spirit of its people.

We discovered that during a river journey with Sigatoka River Safari, an outfitter that takes visitors down one of the country's longest rivers for a rendezvous with the people of one of several rural villages that they visit throughout the year. The trip allows foreigners to learn more about how ordinary Fijians live.

It was our second day on Viti Levu, the largest of the 320-plus islands that make up this South Pacific country and it was the second day of rain. Instead of sulking in our hotel room because we couldn't laze on the beach, we took the Sigatoka journey.

The trip downriver was exciting as we sped along in a jetboat at about 70 km/h. The river followed a valley lined with cloud-shrouded mountains. Verdant scenery of forest and farmland sped past us and river birds scattered as we noisily motored up-river. Every once in a while, we'd pass local people going about their daily lives. One was washing his horse in the shallows, another doing her laundry, others were tending their fields. All would wave as we passed and we'd all wave back. Welcoming visitors with genuine hospitality seems to come naturally to Fijians.

After following the snaking curves of the river for about eight kilometres, the boat let us out and we trekked along for another kilometre or so until we came to the village. About 300 people live here in simple, one-storey houses mostly made of plastered brick. There is a Methodist church, a community hall and an open plaza where special events are held outdoors.

Our guide was a local woman who explained the traditions and the daily lives of the people who live here making a living growing crops like tobacco, papaya and banana, both for sale and subsistence. The visits by the tour company were also beneficial as 10% of the ticket sales went directly to the village and visitors also leave cash gifts.

Sigatoka River Safari spreads the wealth among a dozen or so river villages. They operate six days a week, and each day they visit a different village then, every six months, they visit a different set of villages.

Much of the financing of this village's church was actually provided by a wealthy Australian businessman who had made the same journey we were making and was so touched by the people there and their stalled efforts to build the church that he donated the rest of the money needed to finish its construction.

As our group walked the muddy path into town, people would smile, wave and heartily greet us with “bula,” the Fijian equivalent of hello, but is a word that literally means “life” and is imbued with much more meaning that a simple greeting. Fijians speak of “bula spirit” to describe their easy-going, welcoming nature.

The oldest person in our group was deemed our “chief” and we were welcomed into an open room lined with straw mats. On one side, was the chief and the elders of the village. On the other side were the men in our group, behind us were the women, all of who were now wearing sarongs to cover their bare knees, a nod to Fijian modesty and tradition.

Our “chief” presented a bundle of kava root to the village's chief as a token of appreciation. Prayers and speeches were made and the chief welcomed us as guests. In return, we were offered kava to drink. Also known as grog, the drink has a relaxing and anesthetizing affect. It's a bit like drinking earth-flavoured, novacaine juice and is a vital part of Fijian culture.

Our chief was offered a shallow cup made from a coconut shell that was filled with kava. The protocol for the recipient was to clap his hands, shout bula and drain the cup. The response from the chief and elders was to shout bula back and clap three times. The village chief took his drink and we clapped our response, then a friend of our chief and a friend of theirs drank their share and thus, we were officially friends.

In pre-colonial times, chiefs of rival islands would drink it upon meeting each other. Often they could not speak each others' language and the drink's mellowing effect prevented the groups from fighting each other.

Kava is derived from the root of a pepper plant and an active ingredient of the drink relaxes the muscles, but keeps the mind lucid so people can drink large amounts of it without any intoxicating effects, but your limbs may not be very responsive if you drink to much of it.

After our kava ceremony, we were then welcomed into the community hall for a meal. Singers joined musicians with guitars and ukeleles, to sing us songs of greeting. We all sat cross-legged on the floor to feast on a meal prepared for us by the village ladies. It was simple, but delicious fare typical of what people here would eat. There was chicken, chow mein, cassava, roti and Indian flat breads along with juices and fruit fresh from local fields. The musicians serenaded us with their happy tunes as we ate.

Afterwards, more kava was consumed which, of course, leads to dancing. Men from the village would tap on the shoulders of the visiting women they wanted to dance with and village women would do the same with the men. Kids from visiting families and kids from the village also hopped and clapped along to the merry beat of the music.

Before long, the party ended and we had to leave, but shouts of bula and vinaka, or thank you, rang out as everyone departed happy.

Jaded travellers may question how genuine the welcome is from the villagers when cash is changing hands, but it never felt fake and resembles the sort of warmth that Fijians extend to visitors throughout the country. It might explain why tourism is the nation's largest industry.

It also helps you understand that Fiji is a lot more than just a beautiful island of tropical beaches, but also a place that is made more beautiful by the people who live there.

- The author was a guest of Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways, neither of which reviewed or approved this article before publication.

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