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Berlin Wall trail becomes marathon replacement

Like all of us, DW reporter Marcel Fürstenau's life has changed recently. He muses on how coronavirus alters the perception of a long distance runner and how you can still improve body, mind, soul and the environment.

"Moin!" This typical North German greeting alone, no matter when I hear it, gives me a lift. Hamburg suddenly feels very close, despite the city lying almost 300 kilometers from Berlin. But on April 19, I wanted to be in the thick of it again for the marathon: the Reeperbahn, Landungsbrücken, Alster, Elbchaussee. Precisely42.195 kilometres running through the Hanseatic city, whose inhabitants consider their little corner of the earth to be the most beautiful in the world. Not without justification in my view.

I've been running the Hamburg Marathon since 2005, only missing it when my first son arrived. And now: Corona. The cancelation email came on March 11. One sentence particularly affected me: "Certainly every one of us, whether participant, helper, partner or service provider - and also our organization team - is at least moved by this, if not deeply saddened." It sounds almost poetic.

As I read those lines, I felt less alone in my initial disappointment. It felt good. And it's a nice example of how, with just a few, appropriate words, even an anonymous "organization team" can offer comfort. But the more I think about it, the more I feel almost guilty. Canceling a marathon is not a terrible thing, the real tragedies are taking place elsewhere at the moment: especially in hospitals.

The pure loneliness of a long distance runner

I am grateful that my family and circle of friends have made it through the Corona period so far. I am not worried about myself and for a few days now, I have been working within my own four walls. Fortunately we have a small garden and it is only a few hundred meters to the Tegel Forest.

Marcel Fürstenau takes a break on his jogging route along the Berlin Wall trail

We live together in Frohnau on the northern outskirts of Berlin. In times like these, this is a particular blessing. Many would gladly swap places at this point. A home office in the countryside can be particularly attractive.

And for my passion, running, the unusual working environment is ideal. My preferred route, the Berlin Wall Trail, is often deserted in the morning and at noon. That suits me. I'm not the type of runner who can only motivate himself in a group, in fact quite the opposite. But the loneliness I am experiencing now is new to me.

I'm almost glad when after several kilometres a walker crosses my path, a cyclist passes by or a dog appears. Almost all my thoughts revolve around Corona: Why is that woman avoiding my gaze? Why does that guy not return my greeting? Are they all afraid I'll get too close? I'm hugely relieved when a small family on bicycles kindly says "Hello!".

Taking more notice of nature

Another thing is that I've probably never observed such mindfulness in myself. And paid so much attention to such familiar surroundings. In these first days of spring, the Mirabelle trees around me bloom in a white that almost looks like snow. As I walk close to them, I inhale the sweet scent with the fresh air. Have I ever done this so consciously and intensively?

The Mirabelle tree is in full bloom

After six kilometers, I’ve completed half of my route. It’s part of a standard routine that I’ve been running for almost 20 years. Routine? Not in coronavirus times. I’m scanning left and right to see what’s happening on the golf course. Even though the sun is shining, in spring-like temperatures of about 15 degrees, there are only two players enjoying the extensive, lush green to themselves.

And now I’m back to my physical self and what I’m doing. My pace feels like it’s quite fast for my usual standard, but feelings can be deceiving. I stop myself from checking my watch. But I’m fairly certain I can run the 12 kilometers in under an hour. That would be an average of five minutes per kilometer. It’s not about proving something to myself, I know my potential. And responsible running training is all about sticking to the right pace.

Run as if nothing’s happened

In this phase of my training, about a month from the Hamburg Marathon, I’ve been at the so-called peak for a few weeks: taking long runs of between 25 and 35 kilometers. But what’s the point now that the marathon has been called off? Stupid question! I shouldn’t linger on such thoughts. “You’ll just keep running as if nothing has happened,” I say to myself. At some point the corona crisis will be over, perhaps earlier than everyone thinks. And then I want to be ready - for the next marathon.

In September, the Berlin Marathon is on my calendar. That’ll do. And deep inside there is still a glimmer of hope that I can run my favorite marathon beforehand. Because the Hamburg organizers have so far only postponed the event. In that mail from March 11 it also states: “As soon as we have concrete information for a new date for the Hamburg Marathon, we will let you know immediately.” There's still a chance in 2020!

The optimism is contagious. Contagious - what a word in these times of coronavirus! The letter ends with this simple request: “Until then, we ask for your patience and help, which consists of keeping calm, looking after yourself and your fellow human beings and staying healthy.”

You can rely on me!

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Berlin Wall Trail

The Berlin Wall divided West and East Berlin for 28 years. Just as many years have gone by since reunification in 1990, progressively erasing the differences between both former cities. Still, one of the best ways to explore the remaining traces of the Cold War is the Berlin Wall Trail. This round tour covers some 160 kilometers, identified with the sign "Berliner Mauerweg."

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Berlin Wall Memorial

The tour can easily be started anywhere you want, as bikes can be brought on Berlin's public transport network. An interesting place to begin is the Berlin Wall Memorial. Following the Wall's former location on Bernauer Strasse along 1.4 kilometers, it shows how the border fortifications were set up and pays tribute to the people who fled East Berlin as well as to the victims of the death strip.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

Cobblestone markings

These lines of cobblestones will help you recognize the exact former location of the Wall in the center of the city. However, it is not continuously documented this way throughout the urban part of the border, which covered some 40 kilometers. When the Wall came down on November 9, 1989, East and West Germans were eager to get rid of all traces of it.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Brandenburg Gate

Following the bike path down towards Mitte, you will reach the government district by the Spree River and the Brandenburg Gate. This famous Berlin landmark landed in a no-man's land after the Wall was built. Although the Wall officially blocked it from West Berlin, a smaller wall also restricted access to the monument for East Germans as well.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

Checkpoint Charlie

Checkpoint Charlie remains the most famous former crossing point between East and West Berlin. Tourists now stop there to get their picture taken with actors dressed as military policemen and of a replica of the famous sign: "You are leaving the American sector." If ever you're tempted by a Red Army hat or a gas mask sold there, be aware that many rather see this spot as a Cold War Disneyland.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

Watchtower near Potsdamer Platz

More than 300 watchtowers used to overlook the Berlin Wall, allowing border guards to catch people trying to flee East Berlin. Only a few were left standing, such as this mushroom-shaped surveillance platform near Potsdamer Platz, now listed as an historical monument. Larger, square towers later replaced this model from 1966. An example of this type of tower can be found near Treptower Park.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

East Side Gallery

Another classic attraction that can't be missed on the Berlin Wall bike path is the East Side Gallery. International artists painted this 1.3-kilometer-long remaining stretch of the Wall in 1990, making it one of the longest open-air galleries in the world. This depiction of Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker kissing is one of the most iconic paintings of the gallery.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Glienicke Bridge

Beyond the urban section of the bike path, the route continues through the suburbs of Berlin. Just before reaching Potsdam is the Glienicke Bridge, where spies used to be exchanged during the Cold War. A 1962 trade of a KGB agent for an American pilot that took place here is featured in Stephen Spielberg's recent film, "Bridge of Spies." Many villas can be spotted in that area too.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

Watchtower Museum in Hennigsdorf

Large parts of the bike route are in the middle of the forest, allowing you to realize how green Berlin and its surroundings still are. Right on the bank of the Havel River, this watchtower in Hennigsdorf, about 20 kilometers northwest of Berlin, houses a small museum on the history of the Wall and how it affected that town. It is free to visit.

10 highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

Cherry tree avenue in Pankow

Returning to the city, you'll be greeted by a cherry tree avenue in Pankow, which is most spectacular towards the end of April, when the trees are in full bloom. The Japanese donated some 10,000 trees "to bring peace in the hearts of the people." They were planted in different sections of the former Wall. This avenue is right by Bösebrücke, the first crossing to open on the day the Wall came down.