Extra Virgin

259 W 4th StNew York, NY 10014

Light, elegant Mediterranean fare that reflects its traditional heritage in a trendy setting in the city. While Extra Virgin doesn't take reservations, there is never a wait for a table just before or just after the peak dinner hour of 8 PM.

Rarely I remark on the name of a restaurant, despite the amount of time I know was undoubtedly spent in identifying the ideal title. Yet in the case of Extra Virgin, the name is so exquisitely perfect that I have to indulge my more literary senses, because Extra Virgin is exactly that which it claims to be: simple, authentic, wide-ranging Mediterranean food with a new and sexy undercurrent.

Fish here is always cooked lightly with seasonal ingredients that only highlight the freshness of the meat. The Lemon Crusted Chilean Seabass with fennel potato puree, crispy artichokes, salsa verde, and avocado puree balances texture and oily creaminess in a way only the Mediterranean has mastered. The Roasted Icelandic Cod is also a house specialty, with sweet corn and rock shrimp salsa, cauliflower puree, and a porcini vinaigrette that quite possibly steals the entire show. Extra Virgin also serves up "classic" dishes like a Whole Roasted Branzino for each day of the week, making every first time visitor desperate to come back.

The one flaw in the space, however, is the unbearably dim lighting, which makes it nearly impossible to see the expertly plated dishes coming your way. Yet Extra Virgin will always be a consistently high quality choice, with bright, inventive Mediterranean food, framed by its charming and seductive neighborhood.