Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

Comments

thier are 2 plugs in the bottom of your tranny a red one in the pan and a blue one beside the pan a little higher you got to take the blue one out and if fluid runs out or if you can feel fluid then it's good .if not,fill til it runs out of the hole.i just went through this.

Love this truck - but at a crossroads and not sure if I should try and save it. Starting High Idle while driving, shut it off then okay for just a little while, was low on gas, got gas then immediatley high idle started again, shut-off, now won't start. Sounds like it's out of gas. Replaced starter 3 weeks earlier. Sounds like it really wants to start but won't turn over. 96 Trooper, 97k miles - bought used, found receipt for TPS replacement in glove box , Battery sounds strong, - Any ideas would be appreciated.

I just had the leak fixed on my 2002 Trooper (57K miles.) The leaks were very small but persistent and it took me a while to figure out that it was indeed my "bulletproof" Isuzu that was leaking

I see a reference to the same 8-96017-093-0 (piston cover) and two quarts of dextron on my invoice.

This was covered under the 10yr/120K warranty with zero hassle at our local Marietta Mercury/Lincoln dealership (Isuzu service) and I was out within a couple of hours. I never really expected to ever need/use the warranty but, oh well, I'm very happy how things turned out in the end.

I'm reposting this as I never saw if anyone had any solutions and I have the same problem:

I also have a 92 Trooper 4WD V6 Automatic Trans. with VSS problem. I ordered a replacement VSS but it is not like what I see on the transmission. The VSS is hard wired at the transmission with the wiring going somewhere. There should be a connector at one end or the other of the wiring. Can you send diagram and replacement instructions or procedures? Also send any information on the Isuzu VSS part or part number and it there is any aftermarket replacement. I purchased part # H313303 and every place I look on the web says this is correct, but unless this is inside the housing I am seeing on the transmission, it is not correct.

Have had a "hissing " sound from the top area of the engine, that has progressed and gotten worse. Have an issue with the starting as well? Battery is pretty new and replaced the terminal connectors. I now get a "click" noise but, not turning over. Any ideas?

I just had this problem with my 93...did you only replace the pump or did you replace the whole assembly. If you didn't do the whole wiring/filter assembly, I would say you need to check the filter. It's my understanding that is the better route to go.

i just bought a used 93 trooper for christmas. 187k miles, had it checked out- needs a valve gasket & O2 Sensor replaced and all else SEEMED fine. I've put a little over 2k miles on it in the past 2-3weeks and twice I have been pulling into my driveway- slight hill, gravel, no big deal... but when I step on the gas pedal the engine goes and the car doesn't. I have been told it is a slipping tranny and nothing but a repalcement will fix the problem. However, a friend says he had similar and it was the transfer case? Any thoughts? I hoped it would run longer than a month when I bought it and now i'm screwed?!

When driving the car runs unconstantly, like misfiring petrol engine, and the dealer carage could not find out what the problem is. If I step a little on the trottle the engine runs fine, but when the car has reached constant speed it starts to misfire again. Any ideas..............................

Hey Faraidun. I've searched for an answer to my Trooper problem everywhere, but found no detailed information other than "employees" for transmission repair companies telling people to have their transmissions repaired for $2000. Here is my problem and steps I've taken, maybe it will help.1994 trooper 3.2 V-6 DohcTransmission light comes on after 10 minutes of driving. After shorting the little white connector under the dash, I recieved Transmission error code/fault 51. This is the code for "bad" engine temp sensor. This sensor is located on the back of the engine in which you have to remove your intake manifold off to get behind it with a socket and multi-bend wratchet. After changing the sensore it worked great for a few days and then the error reoccurred. I've looked up any and all possible sollutions and found that I didn't "disconnect batter for 20 minutes, touch cables together to ground out and reset computer for 20 seconds." I will try this and see if it fixes it. If your transmission goes into "safe mode" after tranny light starts flashing and you can shift from 1-2-3 without tranny slipping than you probably don't have a bad transmision. How do you check Transmission Code?Sit in the drivers seat, reach under the dash by your right knee and you should be able to pull out two connectors. The white one that has 2 hole is the right one! Take a piece of wire or metal that is not coated with any plastics or pains and short both hole together. You will notice if you've left your car on with transmission light blinking that it will change it's blinking rate. It will flash in increments.. perhaps 5 quick blinks then 1 blink then a pause and then repeats again. or it may give you mulitiple codes. just record fault codes on paper and call a tranny shop to ask what they mean. Good luck, let me know the result. I'll let you know if I fix it permanently.

The grease question still stands but I took a look at my brake pads today (first time I took the wheels off this truck) and it looks like more than 50% of life is left all around (?) I have 59K miles, I assumed I'd need them around this time but are they really this good or is it my superior driving skills :-)

I replaced pad on my '00 Trooper LS at around 75,000 miles. They could have gone another 20 or 30 K miles. Yes, they are really that good. I'm over 150K miles now, so I guess I need to look at them again to see how they are holding up.

BTW, notice the complete LACK of brake dust these give. I previously had a Nissan Quest and '00 Grand Cherokee that dusted up the wheels within 2 days after cleaning. BIG difference.

My 93 trooper steering wheel pulses back and forth when cold when I first start driving and then settles down as it warms up. It still pulses when warm but only slightly. Is the the pump going out? Any suggestions on what to check? Thanks.

I aquired my Isuzu Trooper (2001) with 104,000 miles on it. When I am driving at low speeds (under 40) it sounds like I am driving on a VERY rough road. (vibrates with a low roaring sound) It clears up once I have reached speeds above 40mph. Someone told me this is the differential going bad. (this is NOT a 4 wheel drive SUV) The transmission sometimes slips as well but I do not know where to check the fluid nor where to put it if it is low. Someone also told me it is a sealed tranny. If so, do I drain it and where do I refill the tranny fluid after draining? I cannot afford a mechanic as I have recently gotten a divorce and am starting all over again so money is an issue. I need to keep this SUV for as long as I can since there are no other options. Anyone got a clue as to what is happening with it? Please let me know. Being a woman I am not totally clueless and am able to change out brakes and other low tech things, so working on it myself is not a problem.

I know the message is old now, but I recently had the same problem on my 2000 Trooper. From what I can tell, it appears that the exhaust tailpipe is rubbing against the underbody. The rubber hanger seems to be deformed (after I had some other exhaust work done). Probably getting a new hanger may solve the problem. You may also want to check the jack "hide-away" compartment to see if the the jack or bar have become loose and are rattling away back there.

I just got a 95 trooper, and when i drive it, air comes through the air vents. I turned off my ac and fan but that dosent seem to stop it. I'm just wondering if this is a problem that i should worry about or not? also by the gas pedal under the dash after about an hour of driving it gets hot im not sure if its over heating or what?

I had a 2000 Trooper LS I loved dearly, but when I lost my job I sold it for the $$. A few months later with a new job, I saved enough to buy a 1995 Trooper LS. Let me start by saying I know practically nothing about cars, but have had to learn some because I need this vehicle in order to get to work and back, so please, any responses would be appreciated in plain English :-)

It was running fine, but had almost overheated a few times. I kept my eyes on the fluid in the radiator, topping it off whenever it looked like it was getting low. I don't know where that water is disappearing to - I cannot see any leak when I park it, but I'm no mechanic.

Over the weekend, I was stuck in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours due to construction. The temp started rising. And rising. When I was only a mile or so from home, I got real nervous, pulled over at a hair salon, asked if I can use thier sink to get water, let it cool a bit, and added water. I keep an old windshield washer fluid bottle in my car filled with water to give you an idea of the capacity I was putting in. I put in the bottle I had with me (I assume a lot of it evaporated as steam) and then 1 more full one from salon (still a good amount evaporated in steam) then about a half of one with no steam.

Next day, 20 mile trip to work, temp started rising, but it drove fine. About 10 miles into drive, it started chugging a bit. When stopped at a stop light, I could hear a gurgling sound as well....as if the water in the overflow was boiling & bubbling. I didn't open the hood at work to see, as I had to get in, but when I left, I checked radiator and topped off water. It did it again after about 15 miles or so.

Any ideas what is causing it? Is it something I can fix? Cost? I am pretty handy with tools, just need the instructions and any warnings...

Any ideas, info, speculation would be much appreciated. I just started getting back on my feet after a long unemployment drought, I am a single woman with no trust fund (just a glimmer of hope I win the lottery) so I really could use some assistance to make sure I still have a vehicle to get to work. I don't need to go anywhere else...

First of all, you need to flush your radiator and put new 50/50 coolant ASAP. Only add that stuff from now on. I haven't done it yet myself (2002) but I was looking into it and it seems easy to drain it utilizing the plug at the bottom of the radiator.

Do you notice any smoke going out the tailpipe? Do you see any film on your windshield? Can you smell any fumes (non-gas) inside? Maybe it's just me but it seems like the coolant is getting into your cylinders (not a good thing.)

I have a 2002 Izusu trooper. 6 months ago, I started to get a check engine light and reduce power light. I took it to the mechanics where they clean the throttle. After having the same problem again various times, they changed the cabling. Six months later, I started to have the same issue. They clean the throttle again and it continue with the problem. Found later that the cable to the throttle was loose. They tightened it and it started to to it again two weeks ago. Again they tightened it again and it I still has issues. When ever I go into a bump on the road, I get the lights. I don't think the cable keeps getting loose every time. Would there be another issue going on?

That's right. I believe they told me it was wiring and connections to the Electronic Throttle Control. I wish I remember the three codes that I was getting. I believe one had to do with the throttle Control housing, the other one witth a throttle sensor and the other has to do with the cables.