Dispatches

Dispatch #10

Published at11:06

Apologies for a bit of a delay in blogging- it’s a bit of along one but hopefully worth the read. We have walked 6 hours down the valleyto Pangboche, a small village at just under 4000m. We’ve come down torecuperate a bit in the thicker air whilst we wait for a summit window, as atbasecamp the lack of oxygen means nothing really heals and any minor ailmentsdon’t get better. We’ve just been relaxing for a few days, making games such asour own mini Olympics involving Frisbee with a barrel lid, traversing thewooden balcony, the standing long jump, doing pull ups etc etc.

So, back tracking a bit, camp 3 rotation done! We got backto basecamp on Friday (nearly a week ago) having climbed up the Lhotse face to camp 3 (7100m) as the last part of ouracclimatization.

It took several days; the first involved climbing directlyto camp 2 from basecamp, skipping out camp one (which was destroyed in theavalanche we were caught in previously). It took 6 hours which was a reasonablygood time and I was pleased to be feeling pretty strong on arriving having felta bit rubbish in the morning. We then had a rest day at camp 2, beforeascending to camp 3 the next day.

The route to camp 3 had been changed, after the route thatwas first set was deemed inherently dangerous due to large amounts of rock fallfrom above. Therefore, we were some of the first people to take this new route.The path was difficult to find but once we got to the bottom of the fixedropes, it was simple to follow. However, the route is composed of steep harddry ice this year, and the first couple of pitches were fairly difficult. Thesolid ice posed a 70 degree angle in places and I would guess a Scottish grade4; winter climbers among you will know that’s not too difficult, but with thecumbersome 8000 meter boots we wear, and with just 40% of the oxygen we areused to at sea level, it becomes pretty tiring! Luckily those first two pitcheswere the hardest and it became more varied from then on, the steeper partsbeing less sustained.

I was pretty knackered on reaching camp 3, and it was becoming very cloudy with a cold wind.We jumped into the nearest tent which belonged to another team (a fairlystandard procedure up here) for a bit of shelter for 15 minutes beforedescending into what was largely a whiteout. Having taken 6 hours to ascend, itwas a mere two hours of descent back to camp 2 in time for a late lunch.

The following day we descended back to basecamp on one ofthe hottest days yet. We raced down through the Western Cwm and then the icefallin just 3 hours to arrive just as lunch was being served- Spam and chips, nomnom nom!

We now have a bit of a wait. All of us in the team havecompleted our acclimatization, so we are now waiting for the weather to clearto allow for a summit bid All of the team have moved to lower altitudes to seekmore oxygen and comfort, ranging from a 4 hour walk away to a village calledPheriche, to flying hundreds of miles back to Kathmandu to meet visitingfamily! Now it looks like just a few more days of waiting before we get aweather window, as the winds seem to be dying around the 18th, 19th,20th May, meaning we’ll probably trek back to basecamp tomorrow thenstart heading up the mountain on the 14th May. This is all likely tochange so I will do my best to keep you posted.

One other thing to say is that if anybody has heard things on the news about a particular team leaving the mountain due to dangers, this shouldn’t worry you; this is one team out of 45 who have deemed it too dangerous, the other 44 are carrying on and we believe the dangers are no more than the norm.

The only other bit of excitement has been getting a few stitches in my hand. On a rest day at basecamp I decided to go on a short walk just to get out of basecamp, and when changing the song I was listening to I fell and cut my hand on some ice, but luckily it’s been expertly stitched and I don’t think it will affect me any further.

Photos are of my feet on a ladder, our tent at camp 2 (copyright Matt Thornton), the Lhtose Face and Rob on the way to camp 3 on the Lhtose face. Many thanks for all your messages via Expenews, I am reading them and they're all really kind, thank you! Please keep them coming.Also, please please please keep donating directly to Women for Women at www.justgiving.com/BeckyEverest

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Elevation: m

Latitude: 0° 0’ 0” North

Longitude: 0° 0’ 0” East

My feet on a ladder on the Cwm icefall

Our tent at Everest Camp 2 (copyright Matt Thornton)

Rob on the way to camp 3 on the Lhtose face

The Lhtose Face and Cwm

Comments

2012-05-11 23:04:23 Nora Russell says: Sounds like its all going great Becky - well done, hope you and Valerie still have the flags and perhaps you are able to swap them around so Valerie can the one she signed? I think she will be back in EBC soon no? Also we are trying to arrange a few interviews for your when you're back - I have given the journalist from the Guardian Matt's number- hope you don't mind! Stay focused and enjoy it! We are all thinking of you! xx

2012-05-11 09:22:34 Nicolle says: Great reading your update Becky, really do feel positive that this is your year on Everest and your mind set sounds so perfect. I know exactly how proud your family and friends are of your bravery and perseverance to truly go for something you believe you can do. Wishing you, Rob and Matthew some great times in the coming days. Stay focused, strong and safe. xx

2012-05-10 15:07:43 Jane Thompson says: Hi Becky …. thinking of you again this morning ... was in Mountbatten for interviews …. found you on the '08 yr 11 photo ….. your GCSE's were all about to begin!
Miserable weather and AS exam mode chez nous - so no big news in Romsey! Andy is loving his rehearsals for the Opening Ceremony- sounds like it should be amazing! :D David starts his next week…. obv they are both mid-exams …..
Sounds like you are doing AMAZINGLY! :D Hope the nearest weather window works out. Lots of love xx

2012-05-10 14:38:01 Rik Elderton says: Great to hear that things are going well, superb and detailed blog, really gives a flavour of life there. I wondered if the Kosheen track I recommended via twitter has had an airing and if it inspires you as much as it has me to climb hard?

2012-05-10 12:01:24 mum & Dad says: Great to hear your news today. Fantastic photos. Do hope you get a shot at the summit after everything you have been through. Good luck with the weather.Look after yourself and that hand!! Say Hi to Matt & Rob. We are with you every step of the way, so proud of you. Enjoy this moment of your life. Stay safe and stay strong. Love you sooo... much, can't wait to have you home. xxxx

2012-05-10 11:14:04 Chris says: Hi Becky, it looks like it is all going to plan. I keep my fingers crossed for the summit attempt. Best of Luck and enjoy your rest at the moment.