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The mountain has two distinct summits, the higher being the south one (Huascarán Sur) with an elevation of 6,768 metres (22,205 ft).[1] The north summit (Huascarán Norte) has an elevation of 6,654 metres (21,831 ft).[1] Both summits are separated by a saddle (called 'Garganta'). The core of Huascarán, like much of the Cordillera Blanca, consists of Cenozoic era granite.[4]

Huascarán is normally climbed from the village of Musho to the west via a high camp in the col that separates the two summits, known as La Garganta. The ascent normally takes five to seven days, the main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route.[7] The normal route is of moderate difficulty and rated between PD and AD (depending on the conditions of the mountain) according to the International French Adjectival System.

On July 20, 2016, nine climbers were caught in an avalanche on Huascarán's normal route at approximately 5,800 m (19,000 ft), four of whom died.[8]

The summit of Huascarán Sur was first reached on 20 July 1932 by a joint German–Austrian expedition.[9] The team followed what would become later the normal route (named today Garganta route). The north peak (Huascarán Norte) had previously been climbed on 2 September 1908 by a U.S. expedition that included Annie Smith Peck,[10] albeit this first ascent is somewhat disputed.

In 1989, a group of eight amateur mountaineers, the "Social Climbers", held what was recognised by the Guinness Book of Records (1990 edition) to be "the world's highest dinner party" on top of the mountain, as documented by Chris Darwin and John Amy in their book The Social Climbers, and raised £10,000 for charity.[11][12]

As for the North summit, apart the normal route all the others are difficult.

West ridge ('Shield' route), rated D+, climbed on 15 June 1969 by W. Broda, S. Merler and B. Segger. Approach as for the Garganta route but after the route develops over the knife-edge West ridge before getting to the summit icefield.

West ridge direct ('Lomo fino' route), rated TD-, was climbed on 7 July 2007 by M. Ybarra and S. Sparano. Approach as for the Garganta route but after the route develops straight over the West face.

Northeast ridge ('Spanish' route), rated TD+, was climbed on 18 July 1961 by F. Mautino, P. Acuna, A. Perez and S. Rivas. The route starts from Chopicalqui col, takes across the upper part of the Matara glacier and reaches the northeast ridge developing across cornices and snow mushrooms.

On 31 May 1970, the Ancash earthquake caused a substantial part of the north side of the mountain to collapse. The avalanche mass, an estimated 80 million cubic metres (2.8 billion cubic feet) of ice, mud and rock, was about half a mile wide and a mile long (0.8 km × 1.6 km). It advanced about 11 miles (18 km) at an average speed of 280 to 335 km/h (175 to 210 mph),[13] burying the towns of Yungay and Ranrahirca under ice and rock, killing more than 20,000 people.[14][15]
At least 20,000 people were also killed in Huaraz, site of a 1941 avalanche which killed over 6000 (see Palcacocha Lake).[16] Estimates suggest that the earthquake killed over 66,000 people.[17][18]

Also buried by an avalanche was a Czechoslovak mountaineering team, none of whose 15 members were ever seen again.[19]
This and other earthquake-induced avalanche events are often described[by whom?] incorrectly as "eruptions" of Huascarán, which is not of volcanic origin.

An earlier avalanche on January 10, 1962, caused by a rapid rise in temperature,[16]
killed an estimated 4,000 people.[20]