Sparring is a systematic way of fighting that should be thought out and planned rather than going on pure reaction. This guide will create a basis of the fundamentals of sparring.

Steps

1

Learn the general theories and concepts of sparring:

Repetition: Different techniques at the same level, or same technique at different levels.

Forcing: Moving the opponent in a certain direction so to force them in a specific direction. Or, to make the opponent limit their techniques given a specific situation.

Rushing: Overwhelming the opponent by a burst of technique, usually in groups of three so to render the opponent defenseless. Using a bombardment of technique that the opponent will never block thus hindering their ability to fight successfully, consequently making a break in their defense.

“T” ing up: Moving the opponent’s weight to the front leg then side-stepping the opponents strong side and making your hip line up with their belly button. Then give the hit. Works well on SAME SIDE grab position.

Drawing: Making the opponent do a certain reaction so then you can capitalize on that specific reaction.

Baiting: Opening up your defense so the opponent will take the opening then capitalizing with the counterattack.

Feints (Fakes): Deceiving the opponent with one technique to catch them in the follow-up technique. Making the opponent think you’re doing one technique when you’re really setting them up for something else.

Intercepting: Either by hitting the opponent at his start up, or as the technique is finishing. Done by opponents telegraph or by set pattern.

Tempo: Change tempo to off balance opponent. Never play opponent’s tempo unless there is more opportunity. Vary stepping patterns, evasive movements, and techniques.

Distance Control: Closing and opening the gap between you and the opponent. The hardest to control. Take control of the center to take control of your opponent. If opponent is taller, then step inside range. If opponent is shorter, then keep opponent inside your range but out of theirs. Distance is equal to your 90 degree sidekick.

Recognize that it's a lot less painful and tiring to simply move out of range instead of blocking your opponent's kicks. This serves two purposes:

You don't get bruises from blocking the kicks of somebody who may be quite a bit bigger than you.

You frustrate your opponent, who looks like he doesn't know what s/he is doing since s/he keeps kicking air. The flip side of this is when you are the person doing the kicking.

To master distance control, learn to quickly judge the following:

Your distance from your opponent - is s/he in your kicking range?

His/her distance from you - are you in his/her kicking range?

Realize that your opponent will not voluntarily stand at just the right distance for you to do your magical 5-hit combo Fatality. You need to close or open the gap as needed.

"Out of range" doesn't necessarily mean "too far away". It means "at a distance where your opponent can't kick you without having to adjust their distance from you in some fashion". You could be too close or too far from them.

2

Learn the standard fighting stances:

Empty weighted lead

Weighted lead or Back leg fighter

Standing

Elongated back stance

Elongated front stance

Hands up

Hands down

Weak side hand

Strong side hand

Elbow in line to hip.

3

Recognize what type of fighter your opponent is and adjust to effectively combat that style.

If your opponent is a lead leg fighter and is taller than you, you should force/draw them into taking a step. That will put most of their weight onto their lead leg. Consequently, they will no longer be able to attack with their front leg without any weight shift. Never rush a lead leg fighter. Breaking down their defense is very hard to do because you have to immobilize that lead leg. One way to do that is to set them into a pattern then forcefully knock down the lead leg and move to the weak side and then make the rush. Baiting a lead leg fighter is a great tactic if they fall into a certain pattern. You can also bait the opponent to see what targets they’re looking for when you open up.

If your opponent is a weighted lead leg fighter or back leg fighter, avoid moving to the opponent’s strong side while they're in a lead leg stance. Your main goal is to move to their weak side or rush them back. Since they are a back leg fighter, they have no problem fighting while moving forward. However, if you make them move backwards, they will not be able to attack you with their primary weapon, their back leg. Being on the offense and using repetition so to keep the opponent blocking will hinder them from attacking. Also to note, when they’re moving backwards their lead foot becomes very light, so capitalize with a sweep.

If opponent is in cross side stance it is a great kick to close the distance or to start conflict to then work off of. If the opponent is in the same side stance the axe kick is a great kick to finalize the rush. If opponent is rushed on the same side they have a very small window of opportunity to capitalize on your weakness. To point out your weakness it is your second step of your rush. There you are transitioning from hips closed to hips open, but after the third step is beginning the weakness disappears because you are back to having a closed stance. The axe kick is a great kick if you are a shorter person trying to catch a taller person off guard, or a taller person trying to dominate a shorter person with superior reach and flexibility. In a kicking contest, the axe kick is an unblockable kick. It can only be blocked at two points in its execution and those points are relatively hard to block. One point is as the knee is starting to lift it can be blocked there, and at the peak of the foot the kick can be nudged to expose a weakness. Anywhere else the opponent will be crushed due to the momentum created by the kick. Another point is the axe kick can be integrated into a lot of combos and fakes, so it is a versatile tool to use against your opponent. The beginning of the axe kick looks very similar to a front kick so one could easily set up a front kick, front kick, to axe kick combo. So, to conclude, whatever one's fighting style may be: lead leg, back leg, center weighted, whatever, the axe kick is a very useful tool to practice and dominate.

4

Be a sensitive fighter.

Feel what the opponent’s reaction is than try to go against it. For example, if the opponent is pulling away from a technique and you trying to overpower them, the better option would to be to switch midway through the technique. This is easier said than done. When the body is already committed it is nearly impossible to then not commit to the desired movement. This works for the attacker and defender. When the attacker is totally committed to an attack, there is no pulling back from that point of return. It is the same with the defender, if they are totally committed to defending the attack they can’t switch mid-motion to block another.

Recognize what areas you are exposing during your moves. Every movement leaves open a target area. When you attack or defend an opening occurs and a spot of venerability shows through.

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Tips

Learn to play to your strengths and hide your weaknesses.

Remember, in a sparring match you are only in stance 1 percent of the time. Everywhere else you are kind of floating around never really settling into a grounded moment. Work on staying balanced while consistently moving.

When sparring, punch the opponent in the stomach so that you weaken his or her strength to slow them down.