A Confederate sympathizer who headed north after the American Civil War helped start a winery industry on Pelee Island.

More than a century later, long after winemaking faded out, an Austrian who knew all about vines and wines — but not so much about Canada — discovered Pelee’s grape history. He nurtured what would become Pelee Island Winery, Canada’s largest estate winery with markets here and abroad.

Meet D.J. Williams, the Kentucky entrepreneur who helped begin Canada’s first commercial wine industry here, and Walter Strehn, the Austrian who showed what can be done with different European grapes on the island.

What stories their enterprising efforts and others who followed can tell. Windsor author Gary May has collected them, gathered historic photos, colourful art and written a book commissioned by the Pelee winery based in Kingsville.

Called Southern Exposure, How Pelee Island Winery Brought Winemaking Back to its Birthplace, the soft-cover book reveals the curiosity and serendipity that led to vineyards in the middle of Lake Erie.

“I love history,” May said. “They’ve inherited this heritage, this history of Pelee Island,” he said of the winery. “They also realize they’re not the whole story.”

May brings a journalist’s curiosity honed during his newspaper career in Ottawa and London, Ont. When he moved to a waterfront home in Leamington several years ago, he wondered just what that bump on the horizon was; that vague shape in the distance on Lake Erie.

“Oh, that’s Pelee Island,” he was told. The more May saw Pelee fade in and out of view day in and day out, the more intrigued he became.

He had sipped Pelee wines but hadn’t thought about the island. He went, toured and talked. The book project a year ago was born, pitched and published.

Turns out Walter Schmoranz, winery president who’s helped nurture the winery’s heritage, winemaking and nature conservation efforts, had long thought of the need to preserve the story and memories that pre-date Confederation.

The 192-page book is packed with captivating details and colour photos. They include the limestone soil and climate, area agriculture, and food and tourism attractions. The book also highlights 18 area wineries already operating or opening soon. It discusses the Prohibition period and the diversity of flora and fauna, like prickly pear cactus, Prothonotary warblers and Red Admiral butterflies. There are tasting notes about Pelee wines, like the Auxerrois and Chardonnay blend for Eco Trail White and the Gamay Noir Zweigelt.

May also shares islanders’ stories. Ginny and Bill Knox talk about living year-round on the island and experiencing their neighbours’ generosity after losing their home in a fire.

The book puts Pelee in context, and May provides much for the visitor to explore and enjoy. “Together, in their totality, the wineries here can create the nucleus of a destination, a tourism destination spot based on wine in this area,” he sdays.

By the book: Gary May’s book Southern Exposure, commissioned by Pelee Island Winery, costs $24.95, tax included. It will be available at local bookstores and the winery’s store in Kingsville. Call 519-733-6551 or visit peleeisland.com.

Support: The non-profit organization Pelee Island Observatory will receive $4 donated by the winery from every book sold.

Firsts: Pelee Island Winery’s roots date back to the country’s first commercial winemaking efforts on in the mid-1800s. Pelee produced Canada’s first commercial icewine in 1983.

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