Bartender Jessica Smith loves making martinis: vodka martinis. Most people, especially young people, she said, don't even know that gin can go into a martini, too. Now with the burgeoning flavored-vodka market, with flavors from elderberry to blueberry to pear, fruitier martinis have become customer favorites at the Bubble Lounge in Fairfield, Conn., where Smith tends bar four nights a week.

According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, vodka dominates the spirits industry, accounting for 31 percent of sales, and flavored vodkas account for 16 percent of all vodkas sold. While vodka is generally thought of as a mixer, the popularity of drinking it straight, especially premium brands, is increasing, the council reports.

We asked Smith to taste six of the more popular brands of vodka sold at the bar, which are all 80 proof. The shots were rated on aroma (the first step of the tasting), texture (mouth-feel) and taste. She also rated the vodka's mixability — how well it would work in cocktails.

First place was a tie with Swedish vodka, Absolut, made from winter wheat, and Vesica, a potato-based vodka from Poland, both scoring 97 points. Vesica seems low-priced and may be hard to find in some areas.

Chopin from Poland, also a potato-based vodka, scored perfectly in texture and taste. Grey Goose from France, Ketel One from Holland and Stolichnaya from Russia are all made from wheat. Prices were taken from online retailers.

ABSOLUT

Price: $21.95/750 ml bottle

Aroma score (out of 30): 30

Texture score (out of 10): 8

Taste (out of 60): 59

Total score: 97

Comments: The aroma was on the sweet side, which Smith said she prefers in vodkas. Taste was strong and powerful, but not harsh.

Mixability: This vodka is great straight, said Smith, who recommended using it as a base for a Dirty Martini (because it would mix well with olive juice, she said) or combined with fruit juices, such as in a Cosmopolitan.

VESICA

Price: $12.98/750 ml bottle

Aroma score (out of 30): 29

Texture score (out of 10): 9

Taste score (out of 60): 59

Total score: 97

Comments: Sweet aroma, but not as strong as Absolut. Texture was a little burning with a strong aftertaste. Smooth, but powerful taste.

Mixability: Best for martinis and fruit-based drinks.

CHOPIN

Price: $37.99/750 ml

Aroma score (out of 30): 26

Texture score (out of 10): 10

Taste score (out of 60): 60

Total score: 96

Comments: Not much of a scent, said Smith, but has a smooth, sweet finish that she liked.

Mixability: Wouldn't use it in a martini. Suggests mixing it with a fruit juice to mask the strong taste.

Vodka Tasting Steps

Select a variety of three or four high-quality vodkas. Chill them in the freezer to make them more viscous and provide cleaner tastes.

Once the vodkas are chilled, pour a shot glass size serving, 1 to 2 ounces each.

Lift the first shot glass and hold about an inch from your nose and gently take in the aroma. This is called "the nose" and contains many of a vodka's defining characteristics, such as fruit, grain or spice. The aroma of a high-quality vodka will be soft and have various subtleties.

Pour the shot into your mouth, and swirl it around to feel the texture. Quality vodka will be smooth and should not burn.

Swallow it to completely take in the flavor experience. A high-quality vodka will possess certain characteristics that are distinct to its distillery, such as hints of flavors and materials used in the distillation and filtering process.

Take your time and get to know each vodka during this process. Each sample should take anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes to take in the full aroma, texture and flavor profile.