I am starting a a couple of windsurfing/SUP projects and because they are mostly prototype I would like to use a stitch and tape method.

Question is what material to use. Regular Plywood is obviously way too heavy, and I want a material that is flexible and thin, it could be very thin because I can always reinforce with fiberglass cloth. What can I use?

Thinner Plywood (lite plywood? where to find for cheap?)

Veneer? (tends to be expensive)

Fiberglass panels?

Or?

Dimensions are going to be 2 to 4 feet long by at most 30 inches (oh my gods! I am not using metric!!!!)

If your making 2' - 4' X30 " proto types just use door skin plywood material from home depot. Then look at the better ply woods or veneers for the real board. Cheaper that way.

Thank you for the suggestion. A search for door skin brings up 1/8" plywood at home depot. That would probably work, although ideal would be 1/16", or 1.5 mm. I am wondering if to actually make the panels in fiberglass ... and there it is with a neat glass trick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmwGCfwC8vs

Great video tutorial. While not identified, it would be helpful to know what kind of resin was used to sustain the flexibility in the created sheet product. Also, the amount of catalyst used was far to sketchy given the my experience with polyester and epoxy resins, especially with the importance of volume and temperature factors with the former.

I like the idea of working with composite materials. Using birch plywood shaped panels and working with carbon, Texalium fiberglass and polyester resin, I created a high tech modern look in my two bathrooms and kitchen remodels, to include trim elements throughout my place.

Great video tutorial. While not identified, it would be helpful to know what kind of resin was used to sustain the flexibility in the created sheet product. Also, the amount of catalyst used was far to sketchy given the my experience with polyester and epoxy resins, especially with the importance of volume and temperature factors with the former.

I like the idea of working with composite materials. Using birch plywood shaped panels and working with carbon, Texalium fiberglass and polyester resin, I created a high tech modern look in my two bathrooms and kitchen remodels, to include trim elements throughout my place.

It would be interesting to see what you come up with in your project

I would like to see some pics of that (your work), beings that I'm a remodeler by profession.
Always looking for something new.

No disrespect intended, but why use stitch and clue when you can do everything by vacuum bagging and have a much better chance of controlling the weight and strength of the finished product. If it is because you don't have access to a vacuum pump, then you should know it is fairly easy to build a very reliable vacuum pump for about $175. As for the vacuum bags, it is fairly easy to build your own using clear vinyl and double stick Superseamstick tape.

Many stitch and glue constructed lightweight and paddle powered watercraft such as kayaks, canoes and even SUP use Okume marine plywood. The usual thickness is 3mm - 4mm and you can get thicker pieces to for frames, ribs, bulkheads etc.

It is a high quality and lightweight plywood constructed with waterproof glues so it holds up well. It also does not contain void or hollow spaces that are often found in thin door panel plywood such a luan. Okume also looks beautiful when covered with glass, clear epoxy and varnish. You can easily paint it as well.

There are various places you can get Okume but check out Chesapeake Lightcraft at: http://www.clcboats.com/" They sell it in 4'x8 sheets and may also do 4'x4' too.

No disrespect intended, but why use stitch and clue when you can do everything by vacuum bagging and have a much better chance of controlling the weight and strength of the finished product. If it is because you don't have access to a vacuum pump, then you should know it is fairly easy to build a very reliable vacuum pump for about $175.

Ages ago I did build a vacuum pump with a refrigerator compressor that eventually gave up the ghost. I am sure it can be done better (how?), and I do have quite a lot of left over bagging supplies that I could use.

But my projects fall into the category of sort of crazy "board additions". I am building a front "race-board" prow to my SUP, and detachable rails to one of my windsurfs. So the idea was to use the simplest possible technique, with no complications because the additions have a really good chance not to work at all.

After following the suggestions, looking around and not finding much below 3mm, I am thinking to (1) build instead a wood cast around the area I want to "add to", (2) fill the cast with expanding foam, (3) shape it, (4) glass it and provide the attachments to the original board ... wish me luck!

To regain familiarity with the whole mess I just cut the nose off my RRD 74 , straight cut, glued on rigid urethane foam (Last-A-foam), shape and tomorrow is glassing time.

Great videos from Nelson, he makes it look easy ... if only it was!

Last edited by dvCali on Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:37 pm; edited 4 times in total

Those who are interested in vacuum bagging need look no further than your town dump. Old refrigerator compressors, if still functioning properly make a good vacuum pump. Mine cost nothing and works fine.

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