Asymmetrical cuts, strap and metalwork closures and heaps of pleats created an edgy, bold silhouette that played on volumes and contrast.

Designer Kris Van Assche  who in 2007 replaced Hedi Slimane, the creator of the ultra-slim suit that was the house's star piece  dared go big, sending out billowy pants that bucked the overall trend in the Paris menswear shows toward slim trousers. A plethora of pleats fanning out from the low-slung waist band gave the pants an almost bubble cut through the hips and thighs.

Jackets were dispensed with buttons, with one often asymmetrical flap closing over the another with hooks or graphic straps.

French actress Beatrice Dalle praised the collection, which she called "really nice, really sober."

"Although sobriety is not necessarily what I look for in a man," Dalle said with a smile.

Turtlenecks, a recurring favorite at the Paris shows, were given a graphic twist. Cut in stiff white broadcloth, the generously draped necks stood straight up, contrasting black lining showing on the inside.

The entire show was black and white, and the closest thing to gray was a double-breasted overcoat in black and white boucle.

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