2004 Ocone, Falanghina Taburno:Correct, elements of sweet gum on the nose and palate, good complexity but falls short of being complete. Pleasant and interesting but little else. Diane says odd – I agree.

1998 Mommessin, Clos de Tart:Young, disjointed, oaky but, curiously, not unappealing; its Burgundy, it’s pretty much identifiable as Morey and then . . . well, then everything sort of goes ca-flooey. Either this needs time in the cellar or it needs to be sold off to others – I can’t tell which.

1999 Lafrage, Volnay Vendage Sélectionées:This on the other hand, is integrated, focused, all about cherry pit fruit and so damn expressive it’s hard to explain in words – utterly Volnay and really showing well although in no danger of heading south. A lovely and fascinating wine.