The South Fork of the Sacramento River is the largest of the three headwater canyons of the Sacramento River. It is longer and broader than the Middle and North Forks. Notably, it also has the most lakes by a pretty wide margin. The North Fork has no lakes at all; instead the river emerges from a vast complex of meadows at the head of the canyon. The Middle Fork boasts fine limnic specimens in Porcupine and Toad Lakes as well as the diminutive and remote Chipmunk Lake. The South Fork, on the other hand, claims 11 lakes and numerous smaller unnamed tarns scattered through four lake basins. In terms of sources of water for the South Fork, these lakes are also by a large series of meadows in under-appreciated Fawn Creek Canyon. It is easy to see why the South Fork is the largest of the Sacramento River’s three forks.

Rocky ridge above Soapstone Basin.

Most of the South Fork’s lakes are divided up between the Gray Rock Lakes and Cliff Lakes basins (read more about them here). These are spectacular examples of classic alpine lakes beset soaring, rocky cliffs. They are impressive destinations by any standard. The other two basins, Gumboot and Soapstone, are very different. Though there are attractive cliffs and rocky points on the ridges above the basins, they are not particularly impressive. Gumboot Basin is not very big but it does contain a pair of nice lakes. This is in noticeable contrast to Soapstone Basin. Although it is by far the largest basin along the South Fork of the Sacramento, it contains no lakes whatsoever. The only body of water present is the diminutive Soapstone Pond. Both shallow and small, the pond is ringed with dense forest and hardly makes a worthy destination for a hike. Still, Soapstone Basin itself is scenic in its own right and worth exploring. Both the Gumboot and Soapstone Basins have trails that climb up the basin headwall and eventually link to the Pacific Crest Trail. Neither trail is very long nor offers spectacular scenery, though they are still scenic enough. However, the sections of the PCT accessed by the two trails offer absolutely spectacular vistas and make awesome destinations for these two modest trails.

Easily the most heavily trafficked of the South Fork’s four basins, Gumboot Basin is a pretty lake basin that has all the ingredients of a classic alpine destination but lacks the scale to really elevate to the level of being spectacular. The main lake, Gumboot Lake, is a pleasant body of water set in a shallow bowl and ringed with lush meadow. A scenic bluff sits just to the southwest of the lake and makes an nice, albeit not particularly impressive, backdrop to the lake. A short distance away from the lake is its smaller sibling, Upper Gumboot Lake. Although it is easy to reach, it only gets a fraction of the attention of the larger lake, nor is it as scenic. It must be noted that Gumboot Lake is one of only two lakes in the Trinity Divide that has direct access via paved road. Moreover, there is a small Forest Service campground at the lake. Consequently it attracts a fair number of visitors. Despite the relatively high number of people in Gumboot Basin, the short trail that departs from the lake and climbs up to the Pacific Crest Trail is only moderately used at best. This is a surprise considering the trail passes a stone’s throw from Upper Gumboot Lake’s shore en route to a junction with the PCT. Once on the west’s most epic long trail, it is only a short hike away to jaw-dropping vista of the South Fork Canyon, the high peaks that line its southern ridge and mighty Mount Shasta towering majestically to the east. The combination of the modest Gumboot Trail with the excellent section of the PCT makes a surprisingly awesome hike.

Far and away the most remote and wild of the South Fork of the Sacramento River’s four basins, Soapstone Basin seems to be completely ignored by hikers. This is probably due to two primary factors first, in contrast to the paved road that accesses Gumboot Basin, getting to Soapstone Basin requires driving a rough dirt road up to the trailhead. Low clearance vehicles are not advised on this road. Compound the rough access with the lack of any lakes and most hikers just skip over the basin entirely. Given that Soapstone Pond is underwhelming, it is not surprising that this area is generally a blank spot on the map to most people. Yet, that very thing gives it an element of mystery and this is itself a draw for some. Add to that the fact that, even without lakes, Soapstone Basin still boasts a real sense of wilderness that none of the South Fork’s basins, except possibly the Gray Rock Basin, can lay claim to. To is remote, rugged and forgotten and this is a fantastic quality all its own. Yet it is still quite scenic, with some attractive cliffs at the head of the basin. However, what really makes the Soapstone Trail a top-notch hike is the destination it connects to when it joins the PCT. A short distance to the east on the PCT leads to one of the most stunning views in the Trinity Divide. On a rocky bench adjacent to the PCT one can take in the awesome bulk and imposing granite towers of the Castle Crags. This is a rarely seen perspective of the massive formation and it is one of the few that gives a real sense of the size and scope of the chaotic jumble of spires. Yet the Castle Crags are only a part of this tremendous vista. Soaring high above everything else is the magnificent crown of Mount Shasta. The entire scene is truly phenomenal. Typically this view is only reserved for PCT thruhikers, since it is far from any segments of the PCT that are trafficked by dayhikers. For the few who make the journey up the Soapstone Trail, this incredible view is a spectacular reward.

Looking down on the McCloud River from the precipice of Middle McCloud Falls.

Running water seems to have a magical allure for people. It is not uncommon for many people’s favorite hikes to follow creeks or rivers through the mountains. This should not come as a surprise. There are few things in the world as attractive and refreshing as clear, running water. When water such as this is found in beautiful alpine places, it is a nature lover’s siren call. In many mountain regions it is typical for trails to run parallel to creeks and rivers. The paths these waterways have carved through the mountains often make the most obvious course for trails as well. The water, following the path of least resistance, has made it easier to penetrate into the heart of the mountains. This rule holds true for most of the alpine trails in Northern California. Whether in the Sierra Nevada, the Klamath Mountains or in the Cascades, this rule generally holds true. Surprisingly, the Mount Shasta area is a significant deviation from this rule. Although there are many rivers and creeks in the region, few of them can be enjoyed from trails. Rather than following the canyons carved by running water, it seems the trails in the Mount Shasta area tend to run along open ridges or simply cut through the heart of the deep forests that blanket the region. This is not to say that the trails are utterly dry and lack access to water. Instead, the trails tend to run somewhat perpendicular to creeks and rivers and, while crossing them, rarely make sustained contact.

Thankfully, there are some fantastic trails that break this pattern and allow hikers to enjoy a prolonged encounter with the clean, clear alpine water. The best of these trails are naturally going to focus on the Sacramento and McCloud Rivers. While this may suggest heavily used trails, especially along the McCloud, it is actually amazing how little use the bulk of these trails get and how deep the subsequent solitude can be. In all cases, the scenery is always excellent and the hiking extremely enjoyable.

Following one of the McCloud River’s largest tributaries, the Squaw Valley Creek Trail actually offers the chance to hike along two distinctly different creeks. Squaw Valley Creek begins high on Mount Shasta and makes a precipitous journey south through the town of McCloud and Squaw Valley. By the time the trail begins, the creek is large and raucous and flowing through a narrow, heavily wooded canyon. The path stays near to the water and is highlighted first by some confining, rocky gorges and later by a pair of small but very scenic waterfalls. By combining a short section of the Pacific Crest Trail, hikers can also descend down a dirt road that parallels Bear Trap Creek and then return to the trailhead via the Squaw Valley Creek Trail. This is a great loop. Bear Trap Creek begins small, first as a series of seeps on a steep hillside and eventually growing into a moderately large creek by the time it arrives at its confluence with Squaw Valley Creek. The return trip along the main creek is a classic Creekside trail.

While most Northern Californians are familiar with the Sacramento River, most probably have images of the large, lazy river meandering through the northern half of California’s great Central Valley. From Redding on south, this is a fairly accurate picture of the longest river in the Golden State. However, north of Redding, or more precisely north of the stilled waters of Shasta Lake, the Sacramento River has an entirely different appearance. Here it is a roiling mountain river, racing from cataract to riffle, through rocky gorge and deep canyon. Unfortunately, the preponderance of this section of the river is inaccessible to hikers. One significant exception to this is the Sacramento River Trail in Castle Crags State Park. Accessed by an awesome swinging bridge over the river, the trail maintains a parallel course along the Sacramento for over a mile. Initially slung on a steep wooded slope dozens of feet above the water, the path eventually drops down next to the river. This latter section offers great access to the Sacramento. Never out of sight or sound of the water, the trail is a fantastic and seldom used exposure to a wonderful river.

Mount Shasta is not known for being the source of large creeks. The southern and eastern sides of the mountain produce a handful of sizable creeks and a couple of them are large enough to sustain their flow all the way to the McCloud River. The north side of Mount Shasta also produces some glacier-fed creeks though these can often be fickle and their flow uncertain. The largest of these are Whitney and Bolam Creeks, each sourced from eponymously named glaciers. Not running constantly, their flow is strongest on hot days when the glaciers melt rapidly and the runoff surges through the north side’s deep canyons. The Whitney Falls trail parallels Bolam Creek for about a mile before making a traverse across a low rise and arriving at a vista point high above Whitney Creek. The section of trail along Bolam Creek is one of the more unique creek side hikes in the Mount Shasta area. The volcanic geology of the area is immediately evident. Rather than a normal earth and rock bound channel that is typical of most creeks and rivers, Bolam Creek races through a narrow u-shaped gully composed of loose volcanic ash and partially exposed boulders. It gives the impression that it would not take a tremendous amount of water to completely alter the course and character of the creek. Though the area surrounding Bolam Creek is wooded, it is not nearly as dense as the forests the rest of the trails on the list find passage through. Consequently the Whitney Falls Trail tends to have more views. Needless to say, if hikers are fortunate enough to time their hike on this trail when water is flowing, they will be in for a treat that is highlighted by the tremendous view of Whitney Falls crashing into its deep canyon, a spectacle further highlighted by Mount Shasta’s snowy crown.

Cloaked in mystery and rarely hiked, the Sisson-Callahan Trail is one of the longer hikes in the Mount Shasta area. Due to its length and its remote nature, this trail is best done as a shuttle hike that begins on the Pacific Crest Trail. Those few who make this journey are presented with the opportunity to witness the birth of the North Fork of the Sacramento River in a series of springs bursting from the high reaches of a deep canyon. From there the trail runs parallel to small streams descending down to a large meadow complex from which the North Fork emerges as a large and boisterous creek. The meadow is a vast and beautiful area. Craggy red cliffs rise high overhead and the dense stands of lodgepole pine endow the area with a high elevation alpine feel. From the meadow, both trail and North Fork makes a 6 mile descent down to the main stem of the Sacramento. Along the way the river pours over a seemingly endless series of cataracts and through numerous rocky gorges. This section of trail is extremely remote and the sense of isolation here is as real as it is pervasive. While the Sisson-Callahan Trail is not completely unknown, its length and challenge of reaching its further reaches limit the number of people who hike the trail. Those fortunate enough to explore this trail through remote country will have an intimate journey with a fantastic river.

It should not come as a surprise that the McCloud River Trail gets top billing on a list of the best creek and riverside trails in the Mount Shasta area. The trail is justifiably well-known for its trio of excellent waterfalls, which is one of the finest collections of waterfalls in Northern California. However, the McCloud River Trail offers much more than just the waterfalls. The section of trail that connects the falls, though heavily used, offers excellent river access, views of a gorgeous river canyon and interesting trail engineering through scenic volcanic cliffs and lava flows. However, the falls area that receives the vast majority of the visitors is only the last few miles of a long trail that maintains a close, parallel course alongside the McCloud. Though the rest of the trail lacks the deep canyon and waterfalls it is still extremely scenic. Highlights include deep swimming holes and small gorges through basalt bluffs. Though smaller than the volcanic features near the falls, these other points of interest are still quite attractive. The scenic river and lonely nature of the majority of the trail combined with the gorgeous canyon and great waterfalls make the McCloud River Trail pretty tough to beat when it comes to hikes alongside creeks and rivers.

The Mount Shasta area has some of the finest waterfalls in California. From the untamed plunges high on the flanks of Mount Shasta itself to spring-fed wonders like Burney Falls, the North State is blessed with an abundance of fantastic falls. Some of these rank among the finest waterfalls in California and the U.S. Most of the well-known waterfalls in this region are in the Cascade Range’s demesnes. However, what generally escapes notice is a collection of tremendous waterfalls to the west of Mount Shasta, in the heart of the Klamath Mountains. These are found in the rugged canyons of the Trinity Alps. Boasting a seemingly limitless array of craggy towers, deep canyons and gorgeous alpine lakes, the vast Trinity Alps are the wildest corner of the North State. Though the Trinities, a sub-range of the Klamath Mountains, are composed of numerous different types of rock, it is the presence of extensive stretches of stark, white granite (and the craggy peaks composed thereof) that produced the mountains’ alluring name. Like the Trinity Alps’ geologic cousin, the Sierra Nevada, the erosion resistant granite is the perfect canvas for nature’s display of sublime waterfalls. The Trinity Alps do not disappoint in this regard (truthfully, they don’t disappoint in most regards). Although there are a number of great waterfalls scattered throughout the range, there are two areas in particular that boast waterfalls that not only rank high on lists of Northern California waterfalls but are among the finest falls anywhere in the country. The first of the two areas is Canyon Creek, which is home to a trio of awesome cataracts. While not heavily traveled by Sierra Nevada standards, Canyon Creek remains the busiest corner of the Trinity Alps. None of these falls are especially tall but their volume of water is staggering. In shape and scope, they are somewhat similar to the excellent cataracts found along the Tuolumne River in Yosemite. The Trinity Alps’ other major waterfall is epic Grizzly Falls. One of the highest waterfalls in the North State, Grizzly Falls is also one of the most magnificent waterfalls to be found anywhere. Unlike many of the falls in the Cascades, these are wilderness waterfalls (of course, the waterfalls on Mount Shasta are a significant exception to this, being found in remote, nearly inaccessible corners of the volcano). They are found in the heart of the Trinity Alps’ expansive backcountry. Consequently, they are generally only accessible to backpackers. For those who do make the journey into the deep recesses of the Trinity Alps, these excellent waterfalls are a terrific reward.

Canyon Creek Falls

Canyon Creek Falls.

While it is generally recognized that there are three waterfalls in Canyon Creek’s spectacular canyon, an Upper, Middle and Lower Canyon Creek Falls, it is the lowest of these that is preeminent. Though it may sometimes be referred to as ‘Lower’, make no mistake, this is THE Canyon Creek Falls. The giant cataract is about 120 feet high but, while not exceptionally tall, it has a massive volume of water. It is split into two sections, the higher half funneling through a narrow trough and then rocketing out over the cliff while the second, lower, half is a wide, tall cascade down a cliff. The combination of the two varied stages of the waterfall gives Canyon Creek Falls a great deal of drama. The incredible volume of water drenches the waterfall with a sense of frightening power. It is certainly one of the most fearsomely beautiful waterfalls in Northern California. Ironically, Canyon Creek’s preeminent waterfall is typically overlooked. At one time the Canyon Creek Trail passed alongside the waterfall. Once the path was rerouted higher up on the flanks of Canyon Creek the falls were lost from the trail’s view for the most part. There is only one brief point where the perceptive hiker can observe Canyon Creek Falls. Exacerbating the problem is the presence of a smaller but still sizable and dynamic waterfall a little upstream from the main waterfall. Easily viewed from the trail, this is now often mistakenly considered Lower Canyon Creek Falls. For those hunting for the true giant of Canyon Creek, a faint trail still exists leading off of the main path to a terrific vantage of the splendid waterfall.

Middle Canyon Creek Falls

Middle Canyon Creek Falls.

While not as tall as Canyon Creek Falls, the middle waterfall of Canyon Creek’s fantastic trio is a tremendous cataract in its own right. About 100 feet high, the waterfall is nearly as wide as it is tall. This is particularly true earlier in the season when the melting snow swells Canyon Creek. When it is at full force, Middle Falls pours over the wide cliff in three large columns, each thundering down the rock face. A broad bench recollects all of the water and then funnels through a narrow gap in the rock as the raging creek once again races over another cataract. Even later in the year, when the creek’s flow has diminished, the Middle Falls is still an impressive sight. The three initial columns are reduced to only one but the drop is still impressively high. The falls are not actually visible from the Canyon Creek Trail. However, a well-established use trail branches off of the main path and leads to the base of the waterfall where the view is excellent. Scrambling up the rocky slope alongside the falls leads to large granite slabs alongside the creek with an amazing view of the Boulder Creek Lakes basin. Be sure to note the towering freefall where Boulder Creek leaps off the granite bench that holds the Boulder Creek Lakes. The waterfall is unnamed but is wonderful nonetheless.

Upper Canyon Creek Falls

Upper Canyon Creek Falls.

Unlike the other major waterfalls in Canyon Creek, there is some ambiguity as to which cataract is actually Upper Canyon Creek Falls. There are two awesome waterfalls within a short distance of each other on Canyon Creek. The downstream waterfall is the taller of the two but is more of a cascade rather than a completely vertical waterfall. Conversely, the upstream falls is not as high but is much more of a plunge. Nothing in particular seems to indicate one over the other. Both are indicated on the USGS topo map. If push were to come to shove, it seems likely that the upstream waterfall is actually Upper Canyon Creek Falls because it is much more of a plunge and still impressively high. This is also the only one of the two waterfalls that is visible from the Canyon Creek Trail. Incidentally, there is an astounding campsite located on a level section of the creek at the midpoint between the two waterfalls. Smooth sheets of water cascade over granite slabs all around the campsite, the upstream falls are visible from the site and the roar of the falling water is almost overwhelming. It is a wonderful spot.

Other Waterfalls In Canyon Creek

Lower Canyon Creek Lake’s outlet cataracts.

The three main waterfalls in Canyon Creek are not the end of the story as far as awesome falls go. Amazingly, these are only the top specimens among an impressive array of falling water. Numerous cascades pour down the granite walls of Canyon Creek’s canyon, adding a great deal of drama to the great beauty of the granite cliffs. These cascades are too numerous to identify individually. However, there are some noteworthy waterfalls on Canyon Creek that, though not as awesome as the main trio, still deserve recognition. Some of these, like the large, wide falls that are often incorrectly identified as Lower Canyon Creek Falls or the possible candidate for Upper Canyon Creek Falls have already been mentioned. Another great example is Lower Canyon Creek Lake’s outlet cataract. When the water pours out of the lake it tumbles down 300 feet over a succession of granite slabs, troughs and benches. Though not considered one of the main Canyon Creek waterfalls, if it were anywhere else in the region it would be a major waterfall.

Though Canyon Creek has the highest concentration of major waterfalls, the true monarch of the Trinity Alps is stunning Grizzly Falls. Not only is it one of the highest waterfall in Northern California, it is certainly one of the most spectacular. Indeed, Grizzly Falls is one of the few waterfalls outside of Yosemite that can compete with that park’s legendary cataracts. The falls initially pours off a sheer granite cliff into a wide cleft. First drop consists of a 100 foot freefall before crashing onto a granite rib. From there the falls makes a series of leaps from one rocky bench to another. After a couple hundred feet of successive drops the falls finally pour over a vertical cascade that is nearly another 100 feet. A few more cascades with a somewhat lesser grade finally deliver the water to Grizzly creek proper…only to see it submerge beneath a vast talus field composed of bright white granite. The creek finally reemerges a couple hundred yards downstream as it enters verdant Grizzly Meadow. Taken together, the entire waterfall is somewhere around 450 feet high.

Spectacular Grizzly Lake.

However, as great as Grizzly Falls is, it is just one of many pieces that make up an unbelievably magnificent spot that must be ranked as one of the most spectacular places in all of the American West. The scene begins with Thompson Peak, the highest point in the Trinity Alps. The granite tower looms majestically over a vast basin at the head of a long canyon. Clinging to the cliffs below the peak’s summit is a surprising glacier. This is the only glacier in California that is not in the High Sierra or on Mount Shasta. At the foot of the cliffs is fantastic Grizzly Lake. The third largest and second deepest lake in the Trinity Alps, it is one of the greatest alpine lakes to be found anywhere. The entire scene of lake, cliff, glacier and peak, highlighted by over a dozen large cascades is enough to render anyone speechless at the sublime beauty. Yet all of this is capped by Grizzly Falls. While most alpine lakes have an outlet creek, where the lake’s waters discharge, Grizzly Lake’s outlet is Grizzly Falls. The waters go directly from the lake over the precipice and make their 450 drop down to Grizzly Meadows. It is a scene with no counterpart, an alpine vision nonpareil.

Grizzly Falls.

Of course, such amazing beauty comes at a price. While the Canyon Creek waterfalls are all found along the easy Canyon Creek Trail, Grizzly Falls and its accompanying spectacle is remote with difficult access. To reach this sublime place one must either make a significant commitment of time and approach via the North Fork of the Trinity River or begin in the Salmon River watershed and make the grueling climb over a high canyon ridge and then descend down into Grizzly Creek’s canyon. The former option is not particularly taxing physically but it requires a significant time investment, usually around 4 days or so. The latter option can be done in a single day but exacts payment in sweat and blood. The excessively steep climb and equally vertical descent is…invigorating…to say the least. The trail is uncompromising in its climb and unforgiving as it drops. Still, whatever price that must be paid is worth it. Few places are as magnificent as the Grizzly complex.

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