RV solar systems are more than just panels on the roof. Any well designed RV solar system has a Charge Controller or Regulator as part of the system. It is the heart of the solar system. Without it, the batteries will not be properly charged and damage to the battery pack will occur. Or, at the very least, shorter battery life will result. One should NEVER EVER connect a solar panel directly to a battery pack without a controller….with perhaps one exception that will be covered in another article.

Whether you experience the warm sunny days of Phoenix, or the cool cloudy days of Seattle, picking the right charge controller for your RV solar system is important. There are plenty of good products on the market today, and a few great ones. Charge controllers of average quality work well, are very reliable if installed correctly, and won’t break the bank. There are a few basic differences in technology that are important to consider before buying. With this knowledge, a well informed consumer can make the right choice easily.

Solar Voltage Regulators.

Fortunately for consumers, the old days of low-tech Solar Voltage Regulators are gone. While these devices worked fairly well at charging your RV batteries, long term use shortened the RV’s battery life. The technical reasons for this are too lengthy to discuss here, but they have to do with the accumulation of sulphate deposits on the battery plates.

MPPT.

The latest Charge Controller technology to be brought to the RV industry employs MPPT or Maximum Power Point Tracking. A charge controller with MPPT (a technology borrowed from the commercial and residential solar industry) will deliver 10%-30% more energy from the solar panels to the RV batteries than one without this feature. This is not because MPPT makes the controller more efficient, instead MPPT is just smarter. Every solar panel made has a different maximum power point. A point at which current (amperage) and voltage peak. An MPPT controller is designed to sense this point and adjust itself for maximum output. This point is referred to as the ‘knee of the curve’ and is shown on the IV graph found on almost every solar panel datasheet. MPPT controllers are more expensive than PWM types. A good MPPT charge controller can cost $250-$700 depending on the power rating. So, the added value of the energy produced, versus the added cost, must be considered. Depending on the size of the system, it could make as much difference as adding another panel. In some cases updating just the controller itself to MPPT is about the same cost as adding another solar panel to the system with the same benefit and cost. Something to consider for those with older controllers.

Amperage.

All Solar Charge Controllers have a power rating. This is usually measured in AMPS. It is the maximum amount of electrical current the controller can handle without failing. A label is found on the back of every solar panel will detail the maximum amount of amps the panel will output. This is usually expressed as ISC or short circuit current. Since most RV solar panels are wired in parallel, the amperage from every panel is added together. The total solar panel current or battery current should not exceed the maximum power rating of the charge controller. It is a good system design practice to oversize the controller by 20%. The controller will run cooler, be more reliable, and last longer. Power does come at a price. Therefore, the higher the power rating of the charge controller, the more it will cost.

Environmental concerns and placement.

Solar charge controllers are usually mounted inside the passenger compartment of the RV and recessed in a wall cavity. While this installation looks good, it can sometimes be problematic. On larger RV solar systems where 20-40 amps of current flows through the charge controller, a great deal of heat is produced. Heat must be dissipated otherwise the charge controller will fail. Recess-mount a charge controller inside a hollow, unventilated wall cavity and then raise the ambient temperature to that of an ordinary summer day, and the charge controller will quickly overheat and fail. This is a very common problem. Instead, consider a surface mount controller with a good heat sink and mount it inside one of the storage lockers or somewhere good ventilation is found. Since some controllers are not waterproof, care must be taken to select just the right location. Oh, and never, ever locate the charge controller in the battery compartment. There are many reasons for this, the biggest of which are corrosion caused by battery off-gassing and the potential for fire should there be a spark.

Display.

Most charge controllers for RV Solar systems have some sort of display. Some have simple blinking lights, others have fancy digital readouts. Both work well, but the digital displays will cost you almost double. For those of us that like gadgets, blinking lights just won’t do. We have to know how much power is being made at any given moment. So, if you must have a fancy display inside the passenger compartment, purchase a model that supports a remote control display instead. Sure, it costs a few more dollars, but the remote control display generates virtually no heat and can be safety mounted in a hollow wall cavity without fear of high temperature failures.

Knowing a thing or two about solar charge controller technology can go a long way when considering solar power for your RV. Low cost controllers may be just fine for your application provided they meet some basic technical standards. Or, if you seek the best charge controller available, you are now armed with the knowledge you need to select the controller that’s right for you.

About the Author

James Mannett is solar power expert, RV enthusiast, and owner of CEA Solar in Sun City, AZ. James conducts seminars on solar power use, and exhibits RV solar products at various shows around the country. He assists people in solar system design and provides components and advice for solar do-it-yourselfers. James can be contacted by writing to jmannett@rvsolarnow.com or by visiting www.rvsolarnow.com.

Solar energy is a wonderful thing – it’s free clean energy. Part of transforming solar from a wonderful thought to an amazing reality requires finding a place for the solar panels to live. That place is often the roof of your home.

This article will explore some of the options and cautions you’ll need to consider before you say your peace with your spouse and lean that ladder against the house. Seriously, the very first item on the agenda is safety – your safety.

Second, consider your roof condition and type. Third, consider the facing or positioning of the panels, which will also determine your mounting structure and what you’ll you use for hardware.

Finally, a few warnings about the authorities and determining space requirements. Plus, if you are considering doing more than just the mounting of the panels on your roof yourself – how should you handle the electrical work? Find out.

The end goal is a secure mount of the solar panels to or just above your roof’s surface (depending on the composition of your roof). The meat of the matter is to find the main roof supports and to attach brackets or channel to those supports. The rest is relatively easy, sunny and breezy. Let’s start with safety.

Safety Thought # 1:

If you’re not in good shape or if you are unable to handle awkward loads, consider hiring a contractor or at least, some help of some kind.

Safety Thought # 2:

Make sure your ladder is on a solid and level surface. Keep an adequate angle by testing the ladder position before you start really using it. About 3 feet of ladder should be above the point at which the ladder is touching the roof.

A safety harness is a good idea while working on a roof. There is more to working safely on a roof than you may think. If you’re not experienced at working on a roof surface, please get more information by searching “Roof work safety” or a similar term. Read, research and apply all safety measures. One fall from one roof is all it takes to change your life instantly, radically and forever.

Your roof:

Is your roof in good condition? If your roof seems good – nothing has flown in the wind except the years, consider getting a roof inspection. There are three common roof surfaces – asphalt / fiberglass composition, tile and tin or metal roofing. Cedar shingle roofing is less common these days, but we’ll also include it in this discussion. No roof last’s forever. If decades have flown by, get your roof right first – even if means an entirely new roof.

If replacing your roof surface is something you’re considering, you can put your solar supplier and your roofer together. It would make sense to ask the roofer to install the hardware (or at least the first brackets) for the mounting of your panels.

Where is the sun?

The sun follows an arc through the day. It rises in the East, arcs across the south and sinks below the prairie, mountains or in the ocean in the west. It is very important that your panels have a decent chance of sucking up that green energy.

If the surface you plan to mount panels on is generally north, forget it. You’re looking for the best southern exposure you can get because this will ensure the maximum exposure for the panels – and that’s how the power is made – not in the shade. In some situations, a roof mounting of your solar panels just won’t be practical.

If your roof surface is somewhat west facing (for example) a rack or frame can be purchased or constructed which will cause your panels to sit up at an angle, correcting the exposure. The obvious negative to this method is that the panels will be sitting high on your roof – not the most appealing installation in the world. If you’re faced with this option and you don’t want it, your only other alternatives are a ground or pole mounting of your solar panels.

The hardware you’ll use to mount your solar panels varies, depending on the roof type and whether or not you’ll be using mounting frames as we just discussed. The manufacturer of your solar panels will have hardware recommendations.

However, some of the cheaper panels don’t come with much guidance. If this is your situation, consider using channel that is aluminum or galvanized for installation on asphalt shingle or metal roofs. One of the brand names of this channel is Unistrutt. It is readily available at electrical supply houses.

Tile and cedar shake roofs will require spot removal of shingles to allow the installation of brackets which allow the panels to be mounted slightly above and clear of the reinstalled roof tiles or shingles. Select tiles or shingles are removed, the truss or roof structural support member is located and the bracket is lag bolted through the roof sheeting into the roof support member (the top truss cord or rafter).

The appropriate tile or shingle is trimmed to allow clearance for the bracket. The appropriate sealer is used around the bracket base and the tile or shingle is reinstalled. Now that the brackets are installed and roof’s integrity is restored, the solar panels can be bolted directly to the brackets OR channel can be mounted to the brackets and the solar panels mounted in turn to the channel.

After installing the solar panels on the roof they must be connected to either individual inverters or a central inverter. The latest solar systems have individual inverters integrated into each panel.

All of this may sound difficult or even overwhelming. Once you get started, it will be clear to you that it isn’t rocket science. However, it is relatively intense labor. In conclusion, let’s go back to where we started – think safety, nothing is worth losing your health or your life.

WARNING:

If you live in a development which has a Home Owners Association (HOA) the very first thing to do is to look up their regulations or ask them about, their solar regulations. Some HOA organizations are not “solar friendly.”

The next step is to determine if you have the room. One kilowatt of solar power requires about 100 square feet of roof area. To put that into perspective, think of a kilowatt (1,000 watts) as ten old fashion light bulbs or a microwave oven. 100 square feet is equal to 10’ X 10’ or roughly the floor area of a small bedroom. Make sure you have permissions and the room required for solar before you start.

In conclusion: If your goal is to install your complete solar system yourself, you’ll either need a very comprehensive book or solar installation training. Why? It is because electricity is like a rattlesnake – unless you’re used to milking rattlesnakes, you’re probably going to get bit before you get much venom (electricity).

If you are able to complete the actual mounting of your panels on your roof, you can hire an electrician to do the wiring or to tell you how to do the wiring. If this is the route you take, be sure to find the electrician before you start your project.

The proper site to install a residential wind turbine depends on many different factors. For example, the ground and air space required by a residential wind turbine depends on the size of the turbine and the height and type of the tower. You must also ensure that the area in question is sufficiently windy to power the turbine. Additionally, some communities may not allow wind turbines within city limits, or may have certain residents who oppose their installation. Make sure you do plenty of research and planning ahead of time to ensure that you have foreseen every possible mishap and pitfall. The last thing you want is to invest a significant amount of time and money in setting up a wind turbine only to find out later that the site you chose will not work.

The amount of electricity you hope to generate from your wind turbine is a major factor in its vertical space requirements. The greater the amount of kilowatts desired, the longer the required length of the rotor blades and therefore the taller the tower. The turbine’s manufacturer can generally assist you in determining your power and size requirements. Unfortunately, towers must never be installed on building roofs or attached to homes or other structures; the vibration of the rotating turbine may eventually cause damage to roofs and buildings. Additionally, the turbulence created at roof top level generally creates stress for the turbine.

Individuals planning on installing residential wind turbines must choose a location where the top of the tower and rotor blades have clear access to consistent and unobstructed air flow. Try to install the device away from trees. Even short shrubs that cause no interference initially can eventually grow to the point that they block the wind. Manufacturers generally suggest installing the device on an elevated area of ground without nearby buildings or trees. The higher the elevation above ground level, the faster the wind speed.

Installing the turbine in the direction of prevailing winds also ensures optimization and increased efficiency. This means facing the turbine in the direction of typical air current paths. For example, where winds frequently blow from west to east, individuals typically face the turbine toward the west. Of course, most turbine heads come equipped with wind vanes that rotate the entire turbine head into the direction of the prevailing wind.

The type of wind turbine homeowners require may make a difference in where installation is possible. Towers constructed of latticed pipes, similar to communication towers, require more ground space. The radius of the guy lines used to stabilize this type of tower generally expands the same distance away from the tower as one-half to three-fourths of the tower height. The bottom of the rotor blades should also have approximately 30 feet, or about 9 meters, of clearance between the tip of the blade and any obstructions below.

Finally, homeowners should familiarize themselves with local zoning regulations or stipulations before installing a do-it-yourself wind turbine. Community regulations may inhibit wind turbine towers in residential areas, may restrict height, or may simply require that individuals acquire special permits. Potential wind turbine owners should also consider the opinions of neighbors before installing the device. Wind turbine towers might obstruct views or produce undesirable noise. Though the noise level created by turbines generally ranges between 50 and 55 decibels, the constant whirring sound may prove irritating to neighbors at close range.

]]>0DIYenhttp://www.diy-energy.org/?p=31062013-11-01T21:14:31Z2012-01-16T21:36:15ZMany people have heard the term biodiesel recently, and are wondering what it is exactly and if it is different from regular diesel fuel.

Diesel from oil consists of a combination of paraffin and cyclo-paraffin hydrocarbons. The combustion of this oil and air in normal engines creates residual smoke particles of varying dimensions. It also typically contains a high content of sulphur and produces chemicals that are known to exist in acid rain as they form sulfuric acid.

Biodiesel is actually a type of diesel fuel that is made out of chemically-reacting lipids such as vegetable oil and/or animal fat. It is usually made by combining the oil and fat with some type of alcohol. The product is designed to be used as a fuel in standard types of diesel engines. This makes it different from waste and vegetable oils that are utilized in converted diesel engines. You can use biodiesel on its own, as well as a blend with petro diesel.

Biodiesel is a golden or dark brown liquid form that is immiscible with water. It has a high boiling point and low vapour pressure. The flash point of biodiesel is quite a bit higher than petroleum diesel and gasoline. The fuel has almost no sulphur in it and is often added to Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) fuel.

In most countries, a B factor is used to indicate how much biodiesel there is in a fuel mix. For example, a fuel that has 25 per cent biodiesel in it is known as B25. Pure biodiesel is named B100. Blends that mix 20 per cent biodiesel along with 80 per cent petroleum diesel can typically be utilized in unmodified types of diesel engines. You can also use pure biodiesel, but this may lead to some engine modifications in order to prevent performance and maintenance issues. Pure and blended biodiesel may be utilized with petroleum diesel at any rate of blend in the majority of injection pump diesel engines. However, some high pressure rail engines possess strict limits on the levels. Biodiesel differs from petro diesel as it possesses different solvent properties, and it will erode the natural rubber hoses and gaskets in most vehicles produced before 1992.

Biodiesel has also been reported to break down residue deposits in any fuel lines in which petro diesel have been used. This may lead to clogged fuel filters if a quick switch to 100 per cent biodiesel is made. If you switch to biodiesel, it is suggested to switch fuel filters on heaters and engines soon after changing to a biodiesel mixture.

One of the most popular features of biodiesel is the fact it can cut down on the direct tailpipe-emission of particulates on some vehicles when compared to fossil-sourced diesel. Biodiesel possesses a higher cetane rating than petro diesel. This can lead to improved performance and cleaner emissions compared to crude petro diesel.

When you generate more power than you use, a net meter will allow you to sell that excess power you have produced back to the utility. What follows is an explanation of net metering and how you can benefit from it. So what exactly is net metering?

In the context of how the typical household uses electricity, the AC current flows from the power plant, along the electrical grid and to the final point of use – your home. The electric meter mounted on your home measures this flow of electricity into your home and, at the end of each month, you receive a bill from your electric provider for each kilowatt-hour used. In this type of setup, the flow of electricity is uni-directional, meaning it only flows from the grid to your home.

In a net-metering arrangement, the flow of electricity is bi-directional. The DC current which is generated by your solar panels flows into an inverter, where it’s converted into usable AC current. Any of the AC power that you do not use then flows back into the grid, at which time the meter will spin backward. This electricity which flows back into the grid is sometimes referred to as net excess generation, or NEG. Many states require utilities to purchase any NEG from you, usually at the going retail rate for electricity. In this way, solar panels derive value by enabling you to offset your monthly utility charges.

Net metering is a low-cost, easily administered method of encouraging customer investment in renewable energy technologies. It increases the value of the electricity produced by renewable generation and allows customers to “bank” their energy and use it a different time than it is produced, giving customers more flexibility and allowing them to maximize the value of their production. Providers may also benefit from net metering because when customers are producing electricity during peak periods, the system load factor is improved.

As of November, 2010, net metering was offered in 43 states, Washington, D.C., and Puerto Rico (see map of state net metering rules from DSIRE). For a more detailed description of state net metering policies and links to the authorizing legislation, see the DSIRE database, which is a project of the Interstate Renewable Energy Council funded by the U.S. DOE and managed by the North Carolina Solar Center.

To get started, contact your electric provider to see if they offer net metering. A number of state governments have taken steps to require investor owned utilities (IOUs) to provide net metering to their customers. For those living in Canada, here is a handy little guide we found that shows where net metering is available.

With fuel prices soaring, the need to invest in green technology solutions to our energy needs is greater than ever. Solar power has traditionally been an expensive option, but during the last twenty years the price of solar panels has fallen dramatically, putting them within the budget of many home owners. This article discusses the costs and benefits of installing solar panels on the roof of your property and tackles the question of whether it is worth it.

We already get our energy from the sun, we just do it in the most inefficient way imaginable. Fossil fuels, such as coal, oil, and natural gas—ARE all products of the sun’s energy stored in the form of 200 million-year-old plants and extracted today by dangerous, costly, and environmentally destructive methods. Solar power, by contrast, comes directly from the source. There are no mines and no oil rigs. A solar panel just sits there , taking in sunlight, and turning that light into electricity right at the point of use. There is no costly or unsightly transportation, no danger of explosions or mine collapses, no nuclear plant accidents or oil spills. Just clean, cheap energy.

Solar panels use a photovoltaic effect to turn sunlight into electricity. Packets of light, known as photons, collide with silicon atoms in the solar panel to knock out electrons, which then flow as electrical current. Unlike methods of electricity generation that involve burning fossil fuels such as coal or oil, the photovoltaic effect does not release any harmful or polluting gases into the atmosphere.

The environmental benefits of solar power, particularly in terms of reducing carbon dioxide emissions, have led many governments to introduce schemes to reward those who install solar panels in their homes. Many countries, including the UK, Australia and South Africa, as well as several US states, offer a “feed-in tariff” for domestic solar energy producers. In simple terms, this is a scheme in which solar panel owners can sell electricity that they produce but do not use back to the grid, often for a high price. According to the Energy Saving Trust, the price per unit that UK home owners receive for their excess solar energy can be as much as 4 times the typical price of electricity purchased from the energy companies.

The feed-in tariff is applied automatically once the solar panel has been wired into the house’s electricity supply and the energy supplier has been notified. In order to qualify for a feed-in tariff, the solar panel must be supplied and installed by an approved company. Anyone who is considering generating solar energy should check with the relevant government body to make sure that their installation meets all of the requirements.

When domestic solar panels first came onto the market in the 1970s, only the super-rich could afford them. However, improvements in the efficiency of solar technology and developments in the manufacturing process have caused prices to plummet. In 2010, the cost of setting up a solar energy generation system in a typical home was around $30,000. In some areas there are subsidies available that will cover part of the cost. Although the upfront cost of solar panels is still a significant amount of money, it is offset by the financial benefits that solar power can offer.

It usually takes between ten and fifteen years for a solar panel system to pay for itself. Depending on factors such as the size of the system, price of the panels and the installation, the energy use of the household and the level of the feed-in tariff. Solar panels are durable and usually continue working at full capacity for decades, potentially making a large profit for their owners in the long term.

Although solar panels are a good long-term investment, the upfront cost of installation is a barrier for many people. So, how can home owners finance solar panel installation? Using savings to pay for the panels upfront is generally the cheapest option, but there are also several financing options that are worth considering if you cannot afford to pay outright.

In conclusion, DIY solar power and wind power IS in fact a very worthwhile investment. If you are considering renewable energy for your home or place of business then now is the time to get on board and take advantage of the various incentives that are offered. It is a good feeling knowing that you are using the free energy from the sun and wind to provide your power needs for many years to come.

Remember, you can always start out small, and add to your system over time. An investment now will pay big dividends in the long run.

America is a commuter society. Each and every day millions of Americans hop into cars, trucks, and sports utility vehicles and begin their daily commute. We begin and end our work days amidst the traffic jams, exhaust fumes, screeching brakes, and blaring horns that define the great American commute. Take a moment to stop and take it all in on your ride to work tomorrow. Consider that each and every time we drive we contribute to problem of air pollution. We contribute to the problem of increasing rates of asthma in children. And we contribute to the problem of global warming.

Then, think about the skyrocketing price of fuel. Is it worth it? Not when there is a better way. And there is a better way: biodiesel.

Diesel engines have always provided consumers with an efficient alternative to the standard gasoline engine. According to the National Biodiesel Board, “Diesel engines are about 30 percent more efficient than gasoline engines.”

But biodiesel takes the benefits of diesel technology to a whole new level. “Biodiesel is safe, biodegradable, and reduces serious air pollutants such as particulates, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, and air toxics,” according to the to the U.S. Department of Energy’s Alternative Fuels Data Center. Drivers can reduce their contribution to global warming by choosing biodiesel, as vehicles that run on biodiesel produce significantly less carbon based emissions than vehicles that run on standard diesel.

Many people believe that they would have to invest in costly modifications to their vehicle’s engine in order to convert to biodiesel. For certain types of diesel engines modifications may have to be made if the vehicles owner wants to use pure biodiesel. In its purest form biodiesel can act as a solvent, corroding engine components like tubing and gaskets – especially in older model diesel engines. Pure biodiesel can break down substances that have built up within an engine, thereby clogging filters and other parts. Luckily, it is possible to replace susceptible engine components with biodiesel friendly alternatives.

But biodiesel is also a diverse fuel that is available in blended forms that can be used in unmodified diesel engines. Those who wish to convert to biodiesel without making any modifications to their diesel engine can use B20, a fuel blend that contains 20 percent biodiesel and 80 percent traditional diesel. This option may be the best bet for newcomers to the world of biodiesel. A vehicle fueled by B20 is still a vast improvement in terms of environmental impact.
Availability is another concern cited by consumers who may be reluctant to make the switch to biodiesel. Amazingly, sales of biodiesel in the U.S. increased from 500,000 gallons in 1999 to 250 million gallons in 2006. Biodiesel blends are now found at most fuel stations.

Anyone can easily make their own biodiesel fuel right at home. Biodiesel can be derived from a number of eco-friendly sources. For example, used oil and grease discarded by restaurants can process into biodiesel. Motivated individuals can help recycle society’s waste into environmentally friendly fuel.

The shift from standard gasoline to biodiesel may not happen over night, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Conversion to biodiesel would not require any major changes to our nation’s infrastructure – except of course for a vast increase in the number of diesel vehicles manufactured each year. If you are in the market for a new vehicle, you can help drive the market in the right direction by buying diesel.

Grid-tied is also referred to as grid interactive or utility interconnected. What this means basically is that if your utility allows it, your system would be connected through your meter to the electric grid. Most electricity meters accurately record in both directions, allowing a no-cost method of effectively banking excess electricity production for future credit. In the U.S.A., as part of the Energy Policy Act of 2005, all public electric utilities are now required to make available upon request net metering to their customers.

If you are producing more power than you are using, the electric meter will spin backwards which means you are producing excess electricity which is then being fed back into the grid. There are two basic types of grid tied solar systems, grid tied and grid tied with battery backup.

A grid-tied system is made up of solar panels, a grid tie inverter, and other electrical components. This is the least expensive and most logical choice if you live in an area which is serviced by the utilities. Since the power is not stored in batteries, as in an off grid solar system, there are no batteries to replace. However, this type of system provides no back-up power in case of power failure.

Grid-tied with battery backup is a type of solar system which is roughly the same as the grid tied system with a couple of additions. Along with the inverter and solar panels you would need 12 volt deep cycle batteries and a solar charge controller. With the addition of the batteries comes more expense and maintenance. A solar charge controller is used to maintain the proper charge to the batteries so that overcharging will not occur. Although this system is more expensive than a grid-tied solar system, it will provide you with at least some power in the event of a power failure.

Off-grid solar systems are completely independent of the utility grid. An off grid solar system is most often used in areas where electricity is not readily available. It is basically the same configuration as the grid tied solar system but a different type of inverter is used. In an off-grid system you would not use a grid-tie inverter but an off grid inverter. These inverters are designed for a specific purpose so it is very important that you get the right one. An off grid solar system will consist of the solar panels, off grid inverter, batteries and electrical components.

It is important to note that solar energy prices have been declining over the past few years. This is good news to those who have always wanted a solar system for their home or place of business but could not justify the cost. To sweeten the deal and encourage the use of renewable energy, there are also energy credits, federal incentives as well as state and local incentives that make solar not just affordable, but a bargain as utility costs continue to rise.

Solar powered lighting is one of the most powerful ways to light up your landscape while also avoiding the hassles common to other lighting projects. When you choose solar lighting, you avoid common hassles such as hiding wires, installing outdoor electrical outlets and moving lights from place to place.

Solar lights are remarkably easy to move from place to place, making them a great choice for lighting the outdoor landscape. It can take quite some time to find the perfect location for exterior lighting, but solar lights are easy to move. The stake type solar lighting can be moved from place to place simply by pulling up the stake and moving it to a new location in the garden.

One of the most important considerations when it comes to solar lighting location, of course, is to place the lights in a location where they will get plenty of sunlight during the day. It will of course be this sunlight that is stored for release after the sun has gone down. The more sunlight you can provide for the lights during the day, the more successful your outdoor lighting project can be.

When choosing solar lights for your outdoor landscape, it is important to apply the same criteria you would apply when choosing any other forms of lighting. The lighting you choose should be attractive, stylish, practical and of sufficient wattage to perform well for your needs. Most solar lighting is not as powerful as electric lighting, but these stylish and attractive lights make a great choice for gardens, walkways, entrance doors and other areas of the home exterior. When it comes to lighting up the landscape, it is generally best to use a variety of low powered lights, in order to accent, and not overwhelm, the landscape. Solar lights are perfect for this purpose, making them a great and cost effective choice, especially in these days of rising energy costs.

]]>0DIYenhttp://www.diy-energy.org/?p=21952013-11-01T23:27:15Z2011-06-01T15:09:10Z How Much Do Solar Panels Cost?

Here is where most people would like a cut-and-dried answer. However, it’s a bit like buying a house, the price varies depending on the size of the system and the type. To use the house analogy –a 2 bedroom houses usually costs less than a 4 bedroom house. However, if you’ve got a larger family, the 4 bedroom house investment might be worth it. The cost of solar panels has been falling every year so the usual method for evaluating the cost is in $ per watt. To explain – electricity output is measured in watts. If you leave a 100 watt light bulb on for 10 hours, then that’s one kW, or 1000 watts. Solar panel systems are measured in the same way. So if you buy a 1kW system, that should be able to power ten 100 watt light bulbs for an hour – as least long as the sun is shining. Make sense?

Solar panel systems come in different sizes. These sizes describe how much energy they make per hour, in optimal conditions. The common sizes are 1kW, 1.5kW, 2kW, 3kW, etc. A 1kW system puts out 1kW an hour in prime conditions.

A 2kW system would put out 2kW an hour. There are slight power losses caused by other parts of the system. This means that a 1kW system will actually supply your house with approximately 0.8kW per hour in sunny weather. Over the past few years the installed cost per watt has been dropping and as of right now is generally around $7-8 a watt. So a 1kW system (1000 watts) costs about $7-8000. Of course, you may get a very good deal, or your state may pay some of the cost. However the important thing is to treat solar panels like a long term investment. Once you know what size system you want to buy, you can calculate how much this will save you in electricity bills, and how much value it will add to your house.

What are the Different Types of Solar Panels?

1. Single Crystalline (also called mono crystalline)

Widely considered to be the Cadillac of the solar panels, this is the oldest technology and is also the most expensive to manufacture. They have the highest efficiency.

These types of solar panels typically get around 12-17% efficiency. These panels are made from single silicon crystals in the form of individual wafers. The solar panel is made up of a matrix of these square shaped wafers laid flat like tiles on a floor. Generally considered to be the most proven and trusted technology. They have a very slow degradation – typically losing 0.25 – 0.5% per year.

2. Poly Crystalline (also called multi crystalline)

Like mono-crystalline these solar panels are sliced from long cylinders of silicon, except that the silicon used is multi-crystalline which is easier to manufacture. You can clearly see these crystals which are about 10cm in diameter. They are similar to single-crystalline in performance and degradation, except they are slightly less efficient, typically around 11-14%.

3. String Ribbon

String ribbon is a fairly new technique that uses less energy to make than the 2 discussed above. The process involves dragging a pair of metal strings through a thin film of molten silicon. This then creates a ribbon of silicon that does not need to be processed any further.

Efficiency is somewhere around 12-13%, and degradation performance is similar to the poly and mono-crystalline panels. This lower efficiency also means the panel will be approx 30% larger.

4. Thin Film or Amorphous

This type of production technique applies the silicon onto a base as a thin film. Even though this process was invented some years ago, the modern variations of this manufacturing process are considered new technology.

The production process is more efficient energy wise than any of the other types of solar panels, so they consume less energy during the manufacturing process than mono or poly crystalline panels for the same rated power. However, these types of panels are only about 6-8% efficient so they need to be at least twice the size, and are also much heavier. So you need the right type of roof to support them.

What are the Different Types of Solar Panel Systems?

Most installations are either a grid tied or an off grid system. Each type is good for a different situation. For example, if you live in an area where you can easily connect to the electricity grid, a grid-tied would be a good option. Grid tied systems allow you to sell your excess solar power back to the grid. They also cost less, because you don’t need batteries which need to be replaced every so often.

With a GRID TIED system, you produce solar power while the sun is shining. This usually happens in the middle of the day, when most people are away from home. So this is when some of the energy will probably go back into the grid, making you a proﬁt. However, if you don’t have a battery backup to store the energy generated, you will only be able to get power from the system during the day.

Off grid solar panel systems are a good choice for people who have a weekend cabin or a home far away from the electric grid. Off grid solar power requires batteries to store energy produced by the solar panels. This to supply power during the night and on rainy days. Often off-grid power systems require a back-up power source. Sometimes this is only used once a year to recharge the batteries, depending on the climate. If you live somewhere where it rains for many days in a row, then you may require a backup system.

The solar energy generated by PV panels is converted from DC to AC power by an on-site inverter. In grid connected systems, the AC electric current can then be routed directly into the home or business or routed to the electric grid via a two-way meter. In “net metered” systems, the meter runs forward when the home or business is using more power than is generated by the solar panels. It runs backwards when the solar panels are generating more power than is being consumed on-site. The system owner receives a credit from the utility for the value of the excess electricity sent to the grid. In other words, the solar system owner is charged only for the “net” electricity consumed.

How does Solar Work?

We’re going to focus on the two main types for residential homes. There are quite a few other types of solar panels, including solar thermal and dye-sensitive solar. These are used more commonly for big applications like power plants. New technologies are being developed all the time, and may be available for residential use in the future.

SOLAR HOT WATER works by heating a ﬂuid. It directly heats your water by circulating it through an array of solar tubes on your roof. Some systems also circulate another ﬂuid, and indirectly heat your water with this ﬂuid.

PHOTOVOLTAIC panels work by a reaction between silicon and photons (the suns energy.) Silicon is spliced with minute impurities – usually boron. When sunlight strikes the silicon compound, a reaction is set up. This reaction causes a ﬂow of electrons. This ﬂow of electrons (also known as electricity) then goes through the process to supply you with electricity.

How do I Install Solar Power?

Most states require a building permit to install solar panels. This is especially true for photovoltaic panels, where electrical work is required. However, quite a few states offer free or expedited permits for solar energy systems. For most systems, the solar panels account for about half the cost of the system. The rest is made up by the components which usually include an inverter, a charge controller and net metering.

There are federal tax credits that are available for all of the USA. As well, all states have their own tax incentives and rebate programs. Some states offer a tax credit, other give straight cash, some give interest free loans, and some offer a combination of all these. There are also rebates and cash incentives offered by power companies and counties. Some power companies also offer to buy the solar electricity you produce from you at a higher rate. Another way you can proﬁt from your solar power is REC’s (Renewable Energy Credits). These are credits created by the government to encourage the use of renewable energy. Whenever you produce solar energy, you are also creating REC’s that you own. And some corporations and power companies are more than happy to buy these from you. So there are many ways to make the most of the solar energy you produce. There is an extensive list of government incentives at DSIREUSA.

How Long do Solar Panels last?

Solar photovoltaics were originally discovered in 1839 – so they’re not exactly untried technology. They have no moving parts and most panels work well for 20-30 years. The best practice is to buy panels that are warrantied for 20-25 years, and most do supply this type of warranty. The other electrical parts of the system – inverter etc., can also usually be warrantied for 5-10 years.

How Long is the Solar Panel Payback Time?

Let’s use the analogy of a house again. Most people buy a house to live in. They pay it off themselves over the years, while it increases in value. However, some people buy a home as an investment. These people buy the house and then rent it out. Over the years, they collect rent and use it to pay off the price of the house. By the time the house is paid off, they own the house, so the rent they collect is now pure proﬁt. So how does this apply to solar energy? Well, a solar panel system is really an investment. You buy a solar panel system, and each year it saves you some money off your power bill. You could use this money to pay for the cost of the solar panel. Once the solar panel system is paid off by the money it’s saved you, you own it outright and all the savings are pure proﬁt. The solar panel system also increases the value of your home.

Does my region get enough sunlight for solar power to make sense?

Solar energy can work just about anywhere. Most of the United States, has a better solar resource – i.e., receives more solar radiation – than Germany, which is the world’s largest solar market. Smart policies and proper system design are the two most important factors for determining whether a solar installation will make economic sense.

Moreover, solar energy is available when the power is needed most in the energy market – at peak demand times on hot summer days.