Osklen Fall 2012: The Rave Continues

SAO PAULO--Remember ravers? Well, Brazilian label Osklen sure does. The brand used the subculture as the main inspiration behind their fall 2012 collection. But before you start picturing oversized Jnco pants, and pacifier necklaces, note that these are not the raving clothes we remember (and wish we could forget?): This time, they are all grown up, high fashion--and eco-conscious.
Sure, there was a lot of neon, camo and brightly colored furry things (from purses, to hats, to sweaters), but there was also expertly tailored outerwear, filmy blouses and a digitized floral print that was decidedly 2012.
Of course, what else would you expect from designer Oskar Metsavaht, whose background is not in design or fashion--but snowboarding. Fun fact:

SAO PAULO--Remember ravers? Well, Brazilian label Osklen sure does. The brand used the subculture as the main inspiration behind their fall 2012 collection. But before you start picturing oversized Jnco pants, and pacifier necklaces, note that these are not the raving clothes we remember (and wish we could forget?): This time, they are all grown up, high fashion--and eco-conscious.

Sure, there was a lot of neon, camo and brightly colored furry things (from purses, to hats, to sweaters), but there was also expertly tailored outerwear, filmy blouses and a digitized floral print that was decidedly 2012.

Of course, what else would you expect from designer Oskar Metsavaht, whose background is not in design or fashion--but snowboarding. Fun fact: The Osklen brand, now considered to be one of the most successful Brazilian labels, started out when Metsavaht, who was the first Brazilian to scale Mont Blanc and, as part of a group of snowboarding enthusiasts, also climbed the Aconcagua, the Americas' highest mountain, saw a need for sportswear designed for colder temperatures. As you can see, the brand has come a long way, in terms of fashion--but their athletic roots are unmistakable. And in this collection, the designer's snowboarding background also seemed to shine. Is the raver reference making more sense now?

But what makes Osklen's designs truly modern is the brand's dedication to using eco-friendly and sustainable materials. Now that's a sub-culture we can get behind.

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SAO PAULO--Osklen's spring 2012 was easily one of the standout shows of Sao Paulo fashion week. While Osklen has a US presence, and a store on Wooster Street in SoHo, I didn't know much about the brand until I saw their show this past week. Their show show made me want to know more--and buy their clothes.
The label's got a real urban sensibility--clean, simple yet sophisticated silhouettes in luxe materials--so their brick-and-mortar location on Wooster makes perfect sense. For spring, Osklen paid homage to African culture in Brazil, hence the title of the show: the Royal Black Collection. While Sao Paulo fashion week mandates that at least 10% of the models in each show are black, Osklen's show opened with seven black models.
The collection was elegant and flowing and comfortable.

SAO PAULO--Samuel Cirnansck has earned a reputation for his theatrical, over the top runway shows. Last season the designer sent his models down the runway tied up and gagged, so I was pretty excited to see what he had cooked up this time. And while it wasn't nearly as risque as last season, it was still a visual treat.
Cirnansck dusted the runway with fake snow, and set up a huge wrought-iron gate at the front of the runway. The effect was something like a snowy fairy-tale, starring an icy swan princess, and it was a refreshing change of pace from Sao Paulo's somewhat bare-boned runway shows. Also refreshing: Cirnansck used a handful of black models--more than any other designer we've seen yet. Kudos.

SAO PAULO--Ellus set the stage for a standout show with an amazing live string quartet (mixed with electronic beat) and a unique stage backdrop, which looked like a wall taken right out of your living room. And happily, the clothes did not disappoint, easily matching the set's glamour and sophistication.
The face of the brand Aline Weber (who is Brazilian, duh) opened the show with an all black ensemble that was anything but boring, combining leather, sequins and wool in an artful blend of textures--certainly a promise of what was to come.