It looks like the main differences are that it's narrower but one inch longer, weighs about a quarter less than the iCare mini (31g), has a smaller tank than the mini (1.1ml) and has the LED in a hole in the side instead of in the tank, which you still probably won't be able to see in bright light. It's button operated so those that had trouble activating the auto switch might find this more suitable. It uses the same IC heads as the other iCares.

Very little difference in size but a huge difference in battery run times/capacity, the Pockex can be slightly over filled to 2.1ml (I have done it without any real issues) so an extra 1ml of juice.
Given the vape quality of the Pockex being far superior to the Icare, this new Icare is not even in the race.
It's not going to be any more stealthy than the Pockex for practicality, it has a battery that will die 5 times faster, it requires nearly double the refills, if it's like the original Icare & Icare mini then it won't deliver the nic as good as the Pockex & most importantly, the vape quality & flavor from the Pockex is lightyears ahead.

I have used the Eleaf I care mini quite happily now for about two months and I am quite happy with it. I have the charge cradle mounted on the dash board of the car and slip the mini into it whilst not in use when driving. The cradle is being charged as I drive with my 12v adapter and for a quick toot and a good little stealth vape I am content with the product and the price. I like the cradle concept and like my other vape that I used to use in the car the Vaporesso Target Pro this one does not occupy the cup or drink holder. Different strokes for different folks I suppose, I am also content with the flavor it produces and the coil life is better than I expected.

IC Coil Build

I did these photos back in early December but never edited them for posting, might have been busy at the time. Here's my breakdown and build for the IC coils:

This is strip down of one of my builds. This is done in the normal way - pull the steel pin out of the rubber grommet, then pull the grommet out of the casing. The coil and wick can then be pulled out of the bottom. The original has a tiny wad of fluffy cotton around the coil and a barely sufficient amount of very flat and compact cotton sheet wrapped around that. The use on this coil was quite high - maybe 15ml of liquid.

At the time I took the photos I was using 7 wraps of 28g Kanthal on a 1.5mm post. I was slightly spacing the coils to improve reliability and give a trouble free vape. I've since changed this to 5 wraps of slightly spaced 28g Kanthal on a 2mm post, and the results seem superior so far - slightly looser and smoother airflow, and possibly more vapour even though the resistance comes out slightly higher.

It is necessary to bend the wires to 90 degrees as sharply as you can because it's a vertical coil and the leads come out the bottom. The best way to do this is to hold each lead in some pointy nose pliers as close to the coil as you can, then bend the wire by pressing it against the side of the pliers. Don't worry if the top lead is right against the coil at this stage.

Your coil should look a bit like this, or neater if you can. Attention to detail will ensure that it works well and doesn't short out on the case.

Next you will need to size the wick. This is one strip cut off the side of a piece of Puff cotton pad, split in two to make it thinner. The ideal width appears to be about 6.5mm. It needs to be only a little wider than the distance from the inside top flange of the head down to the bottom juice hole. For the 1.5mm coil I used the whole 50mm length, for the new 2mm coils I cut this down to 40mm.

Start wrapping the wick around the coil by first putting one end underneath the downwards pointing top leg. This will insulate the top leg from the rest of the coil and prevent shorts.

Put the coil back on the post you used to wrap it, and wrap the rest of the cotton as firmly as possible around the coil. Make sure not to go over the top of the coil with the cotton - it must be flush with the top. You can trim any fluffy bits that stick up with scissors if you have to. Putting it on the post gives you something to hang on to and ensures that you don't crush the coil while wrapping.

With the coil still on the post, compress the wick as firmly as possible and insert it into the casing. I

The coil should be inserted so the top of the cotton touches the inside of the top flange, and the coil should be level with this as well. The coil should be centred as much as possible (if you bent the top lead properly) and you should be able to see right through the centre.

Thread the rubber grommet over the bottom leg, and insert it into the casing so it traps the top leg against the side. Insert the steel pin into the grommet so that it traps the bottom leg. Bend the wires at right angles and trim them flush with the cutters, then press everything closed so it is neat.