I've looked at everyone's pictures of their keezer projects and am impressed at all the handy work and play-by-play descriptions. I like all the handy man/DIY stuff myself so I am looking at building my keezer up too. I'm giving myself 6 months to "get 'er done"....

While some projects may look (color and wood treatment) or function (double hinges, taps on the side, etc.) different (but not necessarily better) than others I think everyone has done a great job. (insert "standing applause" here...)

My question is: If you were to build yours all over again what, if any, changes would you make to your current designs?

I'm looking for "after thoughts" like "I wish I'd..." and "I should have done.." type replies/comments.

So far, the only thing I would do different is to put my faucets closer together. I spread my six faucets out over about 24", only because the spacing seemed to look good (and it does). Now that I'm down to looking for a drip tray I've found that a 24" SS drip tray is around $100, while a 19" SS drip tray is $15 But hey, no one got into homebrewing to save money. And anyone who did is quickly disappointed.

I know there are many ways to DIY the drip tray, but I really like the sleek look of the prefab ones. No offense, but the mud trays just don't work for me (or the S-O) when then keezer is in the living room.

4. Collar just a tad taller... used 7-1/4" stock. And now, with the insulation in place, and when they're on the hump, the cornies clear by a mere fraction of an inch with lines attached. On the lower level there's no problems at all.

5. I'd add a small trap door to the top, or to the side of the collar, to allow access to chilled glasses... My next one will have this... would also allow temp monitoring and maybe minor pressure adjustments without opening the complete lid and letting all the cool air escape.

Overall though, going with what I felt was a good size for my family room and 2 taps to start, with the intent to expand, hasn't been all that bad. In time I'm sure I'll wish more and more that I'd have done both to start, but we'll see.

I've been thinking about mounting the top door and wood together so the kegs will clear the shanks when replacing kegs. This will eliminate moving kegs around or pulling them out altogether just to remove the kegs near the shanks.

I've been thinking about mounting the top door and wood together so the kegs will clear the shanks when replacing kegs. This will eliminate moving kegs around or pulling them out altogether just to remove the kegs near the shanks.

I did the same and so far have liked it that way. Get's everything out of the way when you open it, and provides for a lower height when lifting in new ones.