The new surf-n-turf: Steak-and-sushi

A sushi chef prepares orders at Burton & Doyle, a fancy steakhouse that also serves artful sushi. The restaurant, located in Great Neck, has several dining rooms, with large murals and dark wood walls. (May 8, 2010) Photo Credit: Photo by Bruce Gilbert

This extravagant new restaurant has two separate menus: steak house and Japanese. The rich steaks include a dry-aged New York strip from Meyer Ranch in Montana; a grass-fed New York strip from Painted Hills in Oregon; and an American bison rib-eye from Durham Ranch in Wyoming. The "modern" sushi and sashimi have great flair, from seared toro with spicy miso to red snapper with lemon juice and sea salt.

The look and style of Burton & Doyle suggest a traditional, polished-wood steak house. And the kitchen prepares dry-aged, cornfed Nebraska beef, from porterhouse and chateaubriand to sirloin and rib steak. Japanese and Australian Wagyu beef are on the menu, too. From the upfront sushi bar come nigirizushi, or uncooked fish on vinegared rice; and sashimi; plus colorful rolls, including two with Maine lobster.

The reborn and renamed Sagamore Steakhouse now has a lively selection of New American-style crudo. These include striped bass with pine nuts, mission fig and tangerine-infused olive oil; and wild salmon with espresso cream, Sambuca and fennel. The sushi menu is identical to Blackstone's (same owner) and just as good. Japanese Kobe steak and the porterhouse for two stand out among the steaks. Fine side dishes, too.

Steak at Tellers is money in the bank, as befitting this old bank building. The beef includes the house's trademark, long-bone rib eye and a porterhouse for two, and marinated hanger steak. The eight sushi rolls include the Japanese cowboy, an all-in-one, old-and-new creation that features Kobe beef negimaki topped with lobster tail. Also: triple threat with spicy tuna, salmon and fluke. Add scampi-style shrimp or pan-fried millennium lobster to create surf and turf.