start with the tires and rims mounted your going to run get some paper and start measure up for the for how wide you want the rear track . i would just pull the rails in and do a mini tub with a 4 link and a set of coil overs and call it good . i re done rear ends were they were cut down to much that why i work every thing down on paper before i cut

Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-26-2009 at 07:44 PM.

Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

Yup, like Pat said.....first thing to get is the tires and wheels you're going to run on the car.... Big thing I've seen most do wrong is think they need a 14" wide tire on a 10 second bracket car.... A 10.5" slick is plenty, and opens up the opportunity to run in some of the classes where a 10.5" tire is as big as the class allows........... A 4 link is probably the preferred setup for a car, but be warned that all those possible adjustments have more ways to set the chassis up wrong then right!!!!! A good set of ladder bars with the adjustable lower link will hook up plenty hard, and IMO is a much more consistent suspension when going rounds and staying at your dial in is important.....

Companies like S&W, Chassis Engineering (the one in Florida, not Iowa), and Competition Engineering offer some very complete packages that come with either a welded rear frame section or everything in kit form that still requires the welding.... It's imperative to get the new rear frame section put together correctly, square, and level!!!!

Before you cut anything, have the car on stands or some type of fixture where it will be level and will not have to be moved around... Once you start cutting things apart, even a full framed car like your Chevelle can have panels shifting around and getting twisted out of shape if you have to move the car in and out of the shop.....

I always buy my coilovers last.... I use solid struts to mock everything up, get everything put together on the car and all the pieces installed including the engine and driveline, then scale the car on a set of wheel scales, and get the coilovers with the correct weight springs and valving the first time!!!! Not many folks have a set of scales laying around, but your local dirt trackers will more then likely know who has a set you can borrow, rent, or take your car to them and have it scaled.....

Going to cost you more, but I would also suggest going to double adjustable shocks on the rear coilovers.... Really makes adjustment at the track to keep up with temperature and traction changes easy!

Heck, I've done bunches of back halves and full frames and still learn better ways to do things everytime I do another one.... So many little things to consider before and during the build..... If your buddy the welder has a TIG welder, might even want to consider using moly tubing for the cage, and a moly 4 bar setup.... Initial cost is of course higher, but it's lighter and stronger.....

Take your time while shopping..... The best price is seldom the best package.... Study before you do anything... The "Doorslammers" book should be mandatory reading for anyone doing chassis work on a drag car... Also, take the time to look at some of the local cars that have been backhalved and "work" good.... Ask the builder about his setup. Take notes, take pictures, take your time, and might want to consider my #1 shop rule as something to go by, "If you don't have the time to do it right, when are you going to have the time to do it over?".

Have fun with the project. Sure does improve the way the car works and makes setting in that big horse monster a lot more worthwhile when you already have a good working chassis......

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby

the links helped, thanks. even though i want to do it i went on race junk and found some really nice rollers for cheapper than i can do the work. for now ill just hit the 10 sec goal and go big when i find that special car.