As will run on brake clean, where to look next for injectors? I'm assuming I made a mistake in thise area. What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.

What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.

The original injector wire from the ECU in the harness grounds all 4 injectors simultaneously. You need to keep that wiring intact. The original NA injectors then have the other side wired to +12v. This side you need to rewire with 4 wires to the resistor pack, and the 5th (or 5th and 6th) common resistor pack wire goes to +12v. I'd start with verifying that you have +12v on the resistor pack.

Edit: do you get diag code 1-1-1 on both ECU and EZK (pins 2 and 6 of diag block)?

Using late model 245 engine wiring harness. Wired injector resistors inline to injecotrs 12v feed. Engine was pulled runing out of the donor few weeks ago.

Relocated MAF sensor wiring etc.

As will run on brake clean, where to look next for injectors? I'm assuming I made a mistake in thise area. What I did was cut the 12v feed in the 245 harness, supply 940 injector resistor pack with 12v and feed each injector off the four green wires.

The original injector wire from the ECU in the harness grounds all 4 injectors simultaneously. You need to keep that wiring intact. The original NA injectors then have the other side wired to +12v. This side you need to rewire with 4 wires to the resistor pack, and the 5th (or 5th and 6th) common resistor pack wire goes to +12v. I'd start with verifying that you have +12v on the resistor pack.

Edit: do you get diag code 1-1-1 on both ECU and EZK (pins 2 and 6 of diag block)?

Thanks.

I did. I cut the 12v feed to the injectors and replaced with feeds from the resistor pack. left the grounds alone. didn't touch them.

The common blue wire feeding the resistors is on 12v. The resistor pack has 12v and I can verify 12v to the resistors themselves as there a pin at the top that feeds each resistor. Outgoing green wires feed the 12v on the injectors.

I'll check codes.

Intersting side note: With the diagnostic jumper on 2 and three presses of the button it will test the injectors and the IAC (thnks youtube)

It seems to have three fases. 1 burst of led pulses, this does nothing (since discovered this would test the electric fan, not installed, good to know). a second burst, which get's all four of my injectors firing, a third slower on/of on/of on/of whcih works the IAC which mine responds to.

What are the two bursts? Also. After conducting this test, turn the key and it fires up for a second burning the fuel that just was injected during the test.

So, now what? working injectors. Timing isn't off. runs smooth on brake clean, Does the ecu need some kind of feedback to go ahead and fire the injectors I've overlooked?

You're able to trigger injectors in test mode so they're OK. (You have the low impedance Turbo injectors installed, not the original NA high impedance injectors?)

I'd check the temporary +12v to the 11-pin cabin connector -- what signals are you jumpering? Can you try without the temporary jumpers? I think you have one too many pins jumpered, but I'd need to check my notes at home.

You're able to trigger injectors in test mode so they're OK. (You have the low impedance Turbo injectors installed, not the original NA high impedance injectors?)

I'd check the temporary +12v to the 11-pin cabin connector -- what signals are you jumpering? Can you try without the temporary jumpers? I think you have one too many pins jumpered, but I'd need to check my notes at home.

I think you are on to something. It has to be incorrect feedback to the ecu.

I have the turbo injectors installed with the resistors in line. Running diagnostics triggers them.

I can go back and check what I have jumpered on the 5 wires needed on the white 11 pin cabin connector...

I found a Late 93 diagram with the 24 pin connector, but I think the first 11 pins are the same as the 92.

Pin3 should be yel/red power from the main relay in the engine harness to the fuel pumps. Do you have this wire installed? If not, are you jumpering the cabin side wire, not the engine harness side, to +12v? Without this, your fuel pumps won't run.

What Bosch part numbers are your ECU/EZK? I don't know the details of the late model immobilizer boxes and what keeps them happy.

Yeah check make sure you got correct fuel pump relay, the white one. Make sure fuel pumps keep running while cranking or while it runs on starting fluid. You didn't say how you wired anything or what year harness you used.

Yeah that one wire to the starter trigger wire, power while cranking only.

Yeah check make sure you got correct fuel pump relay, the white one. Make sure fuel pumps keep running while cranking or while it runs on starting fluid. You didn't say how you wired anything or what year harness you used.

Yeah that one wire to the starter trigger wire, power while cranking only.

I said I'm using a late model 245 wiring harness. Which has the white fuel pump relay. However this is staying on during cranking.

It's moot however as I'm not at the stage where i'm comfortable closing up the wiring loom neatly as I want it to run first.

so as a result I have the 12v feeds to the 11 pin connector on the battery. The origional in car wiring is running the fuel pumps at key on (it's a 76, they just keep running).

I'm using a remote starter switch so I can observe the engine bay and what's happening while cranking.

So, quick question that I can't find online: the wiring colors for the injectors: I have black with red market or white with green marker. Which way around are these wired from the factory? I made the assumption or followed the power feed, I can't remember it was 3am, that the black/red wires were the 12v feed and have wired those with resistors in place for turbo injectors. This is such simple wiring it has to be some dumb mistake. Is gr/wh the ECU ground trigger for the injectors? If no one knows I'll ohm out the wires and use the pinout as reference. Would be nice to save me the work.

I have 3 bar fuel pressure at the rail while cranking with running pumps.

I found a Late 93 diagram with the 24 pin connector, but I think the first 11 pins are the same as the 92.

Pin3 should be yel/red power from the main relay in the engine harness to the fuel pumps. Do you have this wire installed? If not, are you jumpering the cabin side wire, not the engine harness side, to +12v? Without this, your fuel pumps won't run.

What Bosch part numbers are your ECU/EZK? I don't know the details of the late model immobilizer boxes and what keeps them happy.

On the ECU/EZK boxes it might help to mention I'm in europe, do they have in immobilizer function? never noticed it in the 940 they came out of. Although immobilizers always cut fuel in my experience.

EDIT: it's late 95/early 96 OBD1 car. Google yields immo being in the 940 wiring loom not ECU and very rudimentary.

I don't think the injectors care which way they're wired, but I'm not sure on this. Gn/Wt is ECU wire. R-Blk was original NA +12v wire, replaced with 4x green wires to r-pack.

Have you checked your intake manifold ground wires for good connection? The ECU uses a separate ground wire for high power circuits (including injectors). IIRC, there are 4 black wires coming out of the harness that go to 2 ring terminals (2 wires per ring).

I don't think the injectors care which way they're wired, but I'm not sure on this.

Have you checked your intake manifold ground wires for good connection? The ECU uses a separate ground wire for high power circuits (including injectors). IIRC, there are 4 black wires coming out of the harness that go to 2 ring terminals (2 wires per ring).

Ecu/injectors won't care but if I have two 12v feeds as a result of my rewire... Ah, I see your edit. Well, that's wired up correctly then.

If I were to design a rudimentary immobilizer, I'd wire it into the Park/Neutral interlock switch and make the ECU not inject fuel unless in Park/Neutral. I have no idea if this is what Volvo did.

For the 5-wire LH conversions, pin 9 pink wire is left unconnected. This is the P/N wire. Try connecting this to the starter side (versus battery side) of your remote start switch. Check the wiring diagrams to make sure this is OK (normally, it's wired to ignition switch pin 50, +12 during start only).

If I were to design a rudimentary immobilizer, I'd wire it into the Park/Neutral interlock switch and make the ECU not inject fuel unless in Park/Neutral. I have no idea if this is what Volvo did.

For the 5-wire LH conversions, pin 9 pink wire is left unconnected. This is the P/N wire. Try connecting this to the starter side (versus battery side) of your remote start switch. Check the wiring diagrams to make sure this is OK (normally, it's wired to ignition switch pin 50, +12 during start only).

I would NEVER EVER have thought that to be the case. but hey. I had a set of chips lying around with an upgraded map.

Threw the fuel chip in in and BOOM!

I'd like to know though as this is my chip and a friends car, how to get AROUND the Volvo immo in the chip? there HAS to be a signal the ECU is looking for that I can replicate. Could put it on a hidden toggle switch and presto.

Proud I could help you.
Yes 0 280 000 984 is with immobilizer.
They did "safe" the ECU with a break away screw, the later ones even glued. A pita to get them out.
Simple to pass by with a chip, you know this too now