First bit of bad luck all week: rain. Gerry Hollins had especially recommended the Old Mamalahoa Highway east of Waimea as a primo example of back-roads riding in interior ranch country. But this morning it began to pour—the only serious, interfering rain of the trip. So we drove the route through tropical fog, not seeing much and figuring we'd bag the ride entirely. We stopped at the famous Tex Drive In on the edge of Honokaa for a very tasty grilled ahi burger with mayo, onions, Tabasco and ketchup. And lo—the rain did cease. This was a sign. We quickly unpacked the bikes and rode into another of those moderate but ceaseless 4-mile climbs—funny how you don't notice them in a car, coming the other way—this one through modest, beautifully gardened Honokaa homes. Suddenly the road opened to a big green vista that the earlier fog had obscured. The road eases after that, and you ride through the rolling green country of the famous Parker Ranch. It was our last ride, so we charged the hills, and probably pushed things a bit on that glorious, twisty forest-shaded downhill ride that ends back at the Tex Drive In. A wise rider is careful on damp, fruit-slick roads.

With time to do more, you could add 20 miles to our 20 by taking Highway 240 to the spectacular Waipio Valley Lookout and returning. The reward at Tex is the famous malassada, a particularly delicious example of that standard in global cuisine, the fried-and-sugared dough ball. Excellent with coffee.

But we were done. We had to drive back to Hilo, return the bikes to Hollins, and play a round at the quirky Hilo municipal golf course, which was populated by ancient, arthritic Asian-American men with 40-mph swings who hit the ball long and straight and gambled like crazy back in the barrackslike dining hall while swigging J&B. We lost all but one of the balls we had—two in a banyan tree—and hit 69 and 66. Not bad, you say. Unfortunately, that was in 9 holes. If we had any doubt before, now we knew: We're not golfers, we're cyclists.

Do The Trip:
Here's everything you need to ride the Big Island.

Before You Go
Buy a detailed map; tourist maps available on the island omit details necessary for back-road riding. We recommend Map of Hawaii: The Big Island, from the University of Hawaii Press, seventh edition, in the series "Reference Maps of the Island of Hawaii" (uhpress.hawaii.edu).

Ride 1: Akaka Falls
Head north on Highway 19 for 5 miles and take a right onto Scenic Drive. Stay on the road until it rejoins with 19. Ride about 2 miles, and turn left onto Highway 220, which will lead you to Akaka Falls State Park. Turn around, then right onto Highway 19. Turn left at Old Mamalahoa Highway and stop at What's Shakin' smoothie stand. Back on Highway 19 near Hilo, turn right onto Kauluha Road to see the Alea Cemetery.

Ride 2: The Lava Coast of Puna
In the town of Pahoa, park your car near the intersection of Highways 130 and 132. Head southeast on 130 for 10 miles. When the road ends, turn left onto Highway 137. You will pass through Kaimu, and after several more miles you'll roll into Isaac Hale Beach Park on Pohoiki Bay. After stopping there, turn onto Pohoiki Road. Cross Highway 132 and stop at Lava Tree State Park. Take 132 back to town and stop for ice cream on your way back.

Ride 3: The Old Cane Roads of Kau
From the town of Pahala, head out and back on Wood Valley Road. At about mile 4, look for an old Asian cemetery; farther up, you'll see the Wood Valley Temple and Retreat Center. Back in town, eat lunch at the Pahala Town Café. Then explore the main cane road southwest of town, Highway 11.

Ride 4: Waimea-Hawi-Hapuna Bay
Starting in Waimea, ride north on Highway 250 to the town of Hawi, where it merges with Highway 270. There you'll find the restaurant Bamboo. At the intersection the highway goes south down the coast. When 270 ends, turn left on Highway 19 to ride back to Waimea.
Ride 5: The Old Mamalahoa Highway to Honokaa
After eating at the Tex Drive In at the edge of Honokaa, go west on Old Mamalahoa Highway and turn around at the Parker Ranch (corner of Highways 19 and 190). If you have more time after you return to Honokaa, add 20 miles by taking Highway 240 to the Waipio Valley Lookout and back.