We have not got behind the front bumper, the front of the front chassis rails, into the sills from the top but not convinced that we did not get there from the underside.

We have not lifted the bonnet to see what needs done with high temperature clear wax.

I'm not saying do not do it if you do not have a lift but it will be hard work as we both spent 5 hours on the job, we were tired in the end using the two post.

To be honest, I think we may have say 2 x 4 hours to go.

The next car will be faster as we spent a while saying "how are we going to do that" but at best it is a full days work for two people.

For the next car I want one other appliction person ie. they will get a bit dirty and I also need someone to take loads more pictures as what we have taken to date does not cover the whole project and they need overalls on as well.

Do you people want to some pictures before we publish the full write up. That may be a week two away and as I say the job on the car is not finished yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Eddie

Last edited by drumtochty on Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Ah, I see, yes I guess it could. It's also reminded me I didn't do much in the front arches/chassis rails last year so that's a job for the dark and salty months.

I gave up with the Dinitrol long wiggly probe Eddie looks like he is using in the photos. Couldn't get the cavity stuff to flow properly for more than a few seconds; it just spluttered. It was cold and wintry in the garage but I did warm the tins beforehand. Found the rigid 5" (ish) nozzles were much more reliable and produced a strong spray. How did you get on?

It was around 14C in the garage so it flowed just fine using the Dinitrol long flexi probe and the Bilt Harmer Dynax S50 I used on a Mk1 recently from a big aerosol also did a great job with a similar long flexi nozzle. When doing the under cabin chassis rails and the cavity that goes along the sills it was also finding its way out in places.

There is a lot to be said for using the compressor to spray the stuff on but I'm told it gets everywhere if a compressor is used.

While it was warmish the day we did the work, the garage has between 4" and 6" of insulation and a 50 amp electricity supply so even on the coldest winter’s day it is toasty in there as I wanted to be able to paint spray in there if required in the colder weather.

You guys are doing the "Right Thing" with that car.SWMBO came into our "IT room" with a coffee and asked me why I looked like a bunny caught in headlamps while I was viewing your work. I'll say no more!

There is always an imbecile you never bargained for. Usually in a Tescon carpark with a dented Zafira minus hubcaps

OldSpice wrote:You guys are doing the "Right Thing" with that car.SWMBO came into our "IT room" with a coffee and asked me why I looked like a bunny caught in headlamps while I was viewing your work. I'll say no more!

Trick on the stuff is to go start with a hot bucket of hot water into which you pour a full kettle of just boilt (hum one for the OED?) water.. leave it bobbing around in bucket for 15-20 mins and it will be toasty.. about 35C as a guess.. keeps your hands warm while you work on it!

I use a pressure pot or two.. http://www.rust.co.uk/pro-wax-injection ... 1/p405093/ .. £83/kit which comes with fan spray and long probe .. the fan spray is the handy one as you can limit the amount going around but it still is a bit of a dirty job.. in someways if you leave the dirt on the floor .. that absorbs the fluid and you can sweep it up.. otherwise newspapers all over the floor.. Broadsheet newspapers help! I am converting a bit to Bilthammer from Dinotrol.. and the latest is Lechlar paint as a 2 component paint with rust inhibitors whereas the chassis paint/Jotun Epoxymastic can allow rust to creep behind it (it is waterproof but can act like an old fashioned underseal).. Bilthammer do zinc rich primer but it is too soft and harder paints can peel off it.. so hence the Lechlar paint.. not bought it yet! The winter preparation season is upon us.. before they get that first salt on the roads.

He advises their UB wax for the exposed areas of the underside that get shot blasted from the road and their Dynax S50 of which I have a good stock for under the wheel arch protectors and the other areas where the dampness and mud can get in but not shot blasted from the road like behind headlights etc.

I use their Hydrate 80 rust converter.

We used the UB wax on Ian's car and my only complaint was you do not get a black finish to tell you that area is covered in wax. The equivalent Dinitrol underbody wax is black and looks a finished job.

I mentioned that to the Bilthamber guy today and he said when they formulated the UB wax, none of the blackeners that you would add to get the solid black finish was completely inert but he will look at it again.

I had talked to Bilthammer a while back and was asking for high impact areas like wheel arches.. and they could not match the Dinitrol 49xx stuff.. I have used UB and it is not bad.. but not as hefty as the 48xx stuff. Mind they say 2 coats at 24 hours as opposed to 1 coat. Anyway Bilthammer does seem the new way forward.