Description

Heading towards the left end of the Main Wall, maybe 50 feet past the cairn where the trail goes away from the cliff and heads up to the far left end, is an inviting second pitch stair stepping, left leaning flake system. The climb begins on a short easy 5.7 unprotected slab to gain a ledge, then a large flake system left of a small patch of pine trees. After passing the trees, diagonal up and right past a bolt, then back left along a thin arcing seam (5.9-) to some hand jamming and the first anchor. From the belay, clip the bolt to the left and do a long reach left with thin feet (or dyno) to reach a good hold at the base of the big flake. Follow the flake up (hand to fist sized cams) to a short bolt protected headwall (crux) to gain a ledge. Mantle up to gain anchors to the right. A single 60m rope will get you to the lower anchors and then the ground, or go all the way to the ground with doubles.

A cool looking potential third pitch awaits an ascent above and to the right, That will probably be harder. It has only been partially cleaned and will need some bolts. There is a big death flake that probably wouldn't survive a fall on gear behind it that should be trundled.

Location

The left hand side of the main face, 50 feet past the cairn for the trail to the far left, before you have to 3rd class to go further along the cliff base. See the topo from Preisendorfer.

GPS: N44.03542 W71.40017

Protection

Both anchors are 1/2" SS Rawl bolts with quicklinks. Regular trad rack up to large fist sized. 1- 1/2" bolt on Pitch 1 and 3bolts on pitch 2, the top one placed by hand by the aiding party. Doubles of the mid to larger cams would be handy. A single 60m rope will get you down with 2 rappels.

This route is now a free climb. This Friday, Dave Powers and Matt ### took advantage of the recently placed protection bolts, anchors and partial cleaning and did a great onsight first ascent. The next day Randy Garcia and Matt ran up it again for the second free ascent, with Randy flashing the lead of the second pitch.