Marc Jacobs

Mood/style:
His show delayed by a storm and his NYC residence ravaged by a hurricane, the apocalyptic edge to Marc Jacob’s show was a no-brainer. Staged in a desolate armory, the models, many half-dressed, seemed to be fleeing a calamity. Wearing roughly cropped black wigs, they circled the space, some protectively clutching their handbags to their chests. Jacobs’ stylistic hallmarks were borrowed from men’s pajamas, with oversized, button-front, pocketed tops, dresses and loose pants. Some models wore just the tops over high-rise panties. Coats also showed menswear influence: topcoats with large collars, boxy and unfitted. But Jacobs gave everything an unexpected dramatic twist by using glittery metallic fabrics. A conservative button-front shirt dress was glamorous in a dazzling rose-colored metallic. Even shrunken cable sweaters were paired with lame pencil skirts. Hefty fur collars, wraps, stoles and chubbies made a wide-shouldered silhouette over sequined coats and long, liquid-looking metallic gowns. During the presentation, staged against a huge sun, the light gradually changed from yellow, which turned everything in the space an eerie black and white, into soft color. A positive sign.

Length:
dresses: ankle-length, mini, also just below knee. Coats at knee or just below. Short and long jackets. Mid-calf palazzo pants. Teeny high-waisted hot pants