Author
Topic: Manual Dough Sheeter (Read 92368 times)

Done, I think. Weight 16 #. Approx. cost $50I applied some food safe silicone lube ( read Vaseline) to the bearing surfaces. It is pretty smooth cranking, I may need to work on the chain a bit, I need a half link and I don't have one.

It does look good. I didn't anticipate the chain running between the sheeter gears. I like that. If I might make one suggestion, consider moving the drive handle to the top idler gear. If you do that, and if you turn the crank clockwise, the chain will be self tensioning and you shouldn't need to mess with another link or worry about chain tension.Dave

It does look good. I didn't anticipate the chain running between the sheeter gears. I like that. If I might make one suggestion, consider moving the drive handle to the top idler gear. If you do that, and if you turn the crank clockwise, the chain will be self tensioning and you shouldn't need to mess with another link or worry about chain tension.Dave

I picked up two 15" rolling pins at the restaurant supply store to start the new build. I want one like holorim put pictures up of. The raise/ lower mechanism is alot nicer than what I have now. Hopefully this build won't be so home made looking, I believe it will look store bought and still be around the $50 range. If I was smart, I would make 2 and sell the other one for more cheese money.

I was able to get the side plates cut and drilled and the appropriate slotted holes cut. I also got both of the up and down plates (that hold the top roller) cut, and drilled and slotted. Also got the 2 round disc's with the holes drilled off-center done. These rolling pins are great, only $13 and they have stainless steel bearings and a nice heavy 5/16" stainless rod.

lol Well, based on what I see so far in your design, it looks like it will work flawlessly. Nice solid parts. Once mounted onto a solid base, your sheeter should work perfectly. Will you post detailed/printable plans of your work once you are finished, so the rest of us can have an easier time constructing our own from the fruits of your labor??? LOL

Also, are the disks with the off center holes, rotary cams of some sort for thickness adjustment? Is your model a replica of the manufactured one that you posted ealier? IE: Is it the same design in principle? Will you put a finish (paint, laquer, powder coat, etc) on the steel at all once you confirm that your machine works the way that you want it? Are any of your parts stainless steel? Would you prefer or upgrade to stainless once you have confirmed?

... Will you post detailed/printable plans of your work once you are finished ...

... Is your model a replica of the manufactured one that you posted ealier? IE: Is it the same design in principle? Will you put a finish (paint, laquer, powder coat, etc) on the steel ...

The majority of the build is based on the diameter of the rollers. So, dimensions wouldn't be that helpful. When it comes to stuff like this, I generally don't put plans up. The cold hearted reason is that I figure that if you can't look at it and do it yourself, then a set of plans really isn't going to help alot anyway. That being said, I would gladly go back and label the pictures of the side plates to show what holes are for what and how to figure dimensions given what size your rolling pins are.

Yes, a clone of the Mitropain model that Holorim put pictures up of. The finish, once I wipe this thing down with denatured alcohol, will be olive oil to keep it clean and to dissuade rust.

Weighing in at a hefty 23 pounds, this model is pretty nice. I took it home and put a 18 layer lamination on an emergency dough that I have been using lately. The unit shows alot of promise but it's not quite finished yet. There were a few issues that need attention. The rollers probably need to be sanded with some really fine sandpaper to prevent sticking of the dough. I need to make a larger gap between the sprocket and the side of the roller, so that the chain can fully engage the teeth. I need to take a link out of the chain. Also finish the handle for the adjustment of the roller gap.

The dough tore because of operator error and this dough didn't lend itself (from what I know) to being laminated and sheeted.