A downtown San Mateo storefront that has seen its share of culinary tenants - a longtime Turkish-Mediterranean grocery and a Korean tofu place, among them - has returned to a pan-Mediterranean/Mideast theme with this fast-casual spot that opened in March.

Six varieties of hummus ($5.50-$6.50 full; $3-$3.50 side), served with warm, puffy house-baked pita, give the restaurant its moniker. The smooth, rich dip can be had in its classic form, mixed with pesto or chipotle flakes, or topped with marinated artichokes, roasted mushrooms or a mix of sauteed pine nuts and harissa.

That largesse is indicative of the menu, extensive for this type of counter-ordering place. But the space is large, too, and reaches out to the sidewalk with a couple of outdoor tables.

The dozens of offerings include cold and hot mezze ($5.50-$8), large salads ($6.50-$8), wraps on lavash or Turkish pide ($7-$8), entree plates ($10.50-$18.50) and pastries and flatbreads ($5-$9.50).

Falafel, deep green inside from fava beans and herbs, are well worth ordering, as a starter with pita, hummus and tahini ($6.50); in a wrap ($7); or in a burger with fries ($7).

The eggplant salad, too, is a winner, broiled and mixed with tomato, bell pepper, parsley and garlic ($6.50, with pita/$4 side). Tzatziki ($5.50) is a spreadable version, made with lebne (ultra-thick yogurt), cucumber, mint and garlic. These, and other mezze, can also be had on a trio plate ($13.50), large enough for several to share.

While some of the entree plates can edge up out of bargain range, all are hefty and include pita, rice, salad, pickles and marinated vegetables. Lamb skewers ($12.50) are juicy and tender, as are the robust, well-seasoned kofte (ground beef and lamb) in patties or skewered ($11.50).

Heading away from the grill, I'd also return for luxurious moussaka ($11 vegetarian, $11.50 with meat). It's the kind of Mediterranean comfort food that should keep Hummus Mediterranean Kitchen in this location for a long while.