FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM....

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Off the ledge and the second route to the right of the Blonde Ambition, No Turning Back (NTB) is marked by a series of small right-facing corners that are mastered by liebacks and tricky feet that start right off the deck. The corners look deceptively easy, but don't be fooled. This route starts to slap immediately and remains relentlessly continuous right to the end. The only rest crops up after 40-45 feet of powerful pulling, and it's a lousy rest at that. Above the small horizontal band at 50 feet, the climbing eases back to moderate 5.11 on small, sometimes incut edges.

Tod Anderson copped the FFA after a week of training with 16 oz curls and some serious tanning time.

Protection

QDs only. At close to 90 feet, this route need about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Agree with heppnerd about the rock on this thing. Really good climbing, but wow, this thing should have had a lot more rock cleaned when it went up. It was obvious where the rock that heppnerd pulled off came from (big new rock scar up high), and unfortunately, there is a huge flake just above that is primed to go as well. When that thing comes off, it will be a small miracle if it doesn't either damage your rope on the way down or maim your belayer. Watch what you pull on.

Hey slim, I did not have a pry bar nor permission from the FA to clean things up, so I didn't touch anything. The biggest and most dangerous problem is up on the final headwall where there is a pretty big flake-like feature that is flexing a lot (it is immediately above where hepnerd pulled off a toaster oven). Anyway, if you have to use it, grab it at the bottom to avoid levering on it and try not to yard I guess. Enjoy the route, it's good and definitely solid at the grade.

I can only recall one questionable flake, but that was back in the '90s when the route went in so things may have changed or perhaps people are climbing a slightly different line than I did. I would say to reef away on anything that is now loose and maybe post any changes to the grade.