I upgraded my M3 ID rev. 0 with the Makergear BLtouch upgrade and had the mounting plate left over. After using the BLtouch on the ID I decided I had to have it for the M2. So using the leftover plate, I mod'ed the M2 to include the BLtouch and the other parts that Makergear provides with the M3. I found it easier to use the Marlin 1.1.9 firmware than the original firmware to get the BLtouch to work. So far it works really well.

Nice implementation! Thanks for the wiring diagram on the Thingiverse post. It is encouraging to see that it can be done without using any of the ports needed for the dual extruder. As I posted in my comment to your design on Thingiverse, I have an inductive sensor that I have not been particularly satisfied with because it stops working near the edge of the build plate which is exactly the spot where you want to home it. I considered trying to redesign the extruder mount so I could put the probe a bit further back, but it was already pushed back about as far as I could get it, so I wasn't sure that was even possible. The BLTouch seems like a better solution overall, especially if I can fit it in with the existing electronics board. Thanks for sharing!

Very interesting mod. I'm definitely going to be using the probe mount if things align to the m3se Hotend plate. I'm fairly new to Marlin modding but if I were to use your config file on a rev e machine(black motor) I should be able to just update the z esteps to get it to work correctly with my machine. Is that correct?

Very nice. i'm running bltouch as well and 1.1.9 Still working on getting the zoffset good . so the mounting plate from M3 ID rev. 0 works fine on M2? Need to see if I can buy it from makergear
Can you post your part cooling fan shroud that you used with 40mm fan? also It looks like your connector mount is flipped. Was that done on purpose?

Very nice. i'm running bltouch as well and 1.1.9 Still working on getting the zoffset good . so the mounting plate from M3 ID rev. 0 works fine on M2? Need to see if I can buy it from makergear
Can you post your part cooling fan shroud that you used with 40mm fan? also It looks like your connector mount is flipped. Was that done on purpose?

I'm not sure about the connector mount being flipped, most likely it was just ignorance as to how it should look . I believe that the Digipot_motor_current sets the current available to the stepper motors. There were only a couple of changes I could find in that file, and that was one of them.

If it helps at all, to set the Z-Offset I used the following with a feeler gauge (probably not the easiest way but it worked :

G28 (wait for it to auto level a the center)
G1 Z5 and work my way to Z0 testing with the feeler gauge. If I reach 0 and it's still loose then I use the following commands and added a negative number based on an estimate of how much farther I need to go. For example M851 Z-1 etc.

M851 Z< - + offset Value> ie M851 Z-1
M500 (save to eprom)
M501 (Verify the value has set)
G28 Reset
G1 Z2 and work your way back to 0 again. At this point if 0 is good you have your offset, if you have some room to go (for example you get to Z.42) then subtract it from the Z-1 and then re-enter the new value as listed below. If it's still loose then decrease the Z value and try again. (M851 Z-1.5 etc)

Very nice. i'm running bltouch as well and 1.1.9 Still working on getting the zoffset good . so the mounting plate from M3 ID rev. 0 works fine on M2? Need to see if I can buy it from makergear
Can you post your part cooling fan shroud that you used with 40mm fan? also It looks like your connector mount is flipped. Was that done on purpose?

I'm not sure about the connector mount being flipped, most likely it was just ignorance as to how it should look . I believe that the Digipot_motor_current sets the current available to the stepper motors. There were only a couple of changes I could find in that file, and that was one of them.

If it helps at all, to set the Z-Offset I used the following with a feeler gauge (probably not the easiest way but it worked :

G28 (wait for it to auto level a the center)
G1 Z5 and work my way to Z0 testing with the feeler gauge. If I reach 0 and it's still loose then I use the following commands and added a negative number based on an estimate of how much farther I need to go. For example M851 Z-1 etc.

M851 Z< - + offset Value> ie M851 Z-1
M500 (save to eprom)
M501 (Verify the value has set)
G28 Reset
G1 Z2 and work your way back to 0 again. At this point if 0 is good you have your offset, if you have some room to go (for example you get to Z.42) then subtract it from the Z-1 and then re-enter the new value as listed below. If it's still loose then decrease the Z value and try again. (M851 Z-1.5 etc)

Very nice. i'm running bltouch as well and 1.1.9 Still working on getting the zoffset good . so the mounting plate from M3 ID rev. 0 works fine on M2? Need to see if I can buy it from makergear
Can you post your part cooling fan shroud that you used with 40mm fan? also It looks like your connector mount is flipped. Was that done on purpose?

I'm not sure about the connector mount being flipped, most likely it was just ignorance as to how it should look . I believe that the Digipot_motor_current sets the current available to the stepper motors. There were only a couple of changes I could find in that file, and that was one of them.

If it helps at all, to set the Z-Offset I used the following with a feeler gauge (probably not the easiest way but it worked :

G28 (wait for it to auto level a the center)
G1 Z5 and work my way to Z0 testing with the feeler gauge. If I reach 0 and it's still loose then I use the following commands and added a negative number based on an estimate of how much farther I need to go. For example M851 Z-1 etc.

M851 Z< - + offset Value> ie M851 Z-1
M500 (save to eprom)
M501 (Verify the value has set)
G28 Reset
G1 Z2 and work your way back to 0 again. At this point if 0 is good you have your offset, if you have some room to go (for example you get to Z.42) then subtract it from the Z-1 and then re-enter the new value as listed below. If it's still loose then decrease the Z value and try again. (M851 Z-1.5 etc)

reason why i asked if it was flipped is because this is how my original filament drive looks like
Screenshot 2018-12-04 09.11.11.png

and my electronics mount is on the right side, yours is on the left
Screenshot 2018-12-04 09.11.03.png

I understand now, I ended up modeling things based on the layout of the M3 ID. The wiring looms are on the opposite side. I don't think it matters with the single extruder. I used a .15mm shim. It didn't get it to where I wanted it exactly. I don't have a machinist's feel for when things are right. Once I got it close, I just increased the z-offset by .05 mm until it looked good.

I'm not sure about the connector mount being flipped, most likely it was just ignorance as to how it should look . I believe that the Digipot_motor_current sets the current available to the stepper motors. There were only a couple of changes I could find in that file, and that was one of them.

If it helps at all, to set the Z-Offset I used the following with a feeler gauge (probably not the easiest way but it worked :

G28 (wait for it to auto level a the center)
G1 Z5 and work my way to Z0 testing with the feeler gauge. If I reach 0 and it's still loose then I use the following commands and added a negative number based on an estimate of how much farther I need to go. For example M851 Z-1 etc.

M851 Z< - + offset Value> ie M851 Z-1
M500 (save to eprom)
M501 (Verify the value has set)
G28 Reset
G1 Z2 and work your way back to 0 again. At this point if 0 is good you have your offset, if you have some room to go (for example you get to Z.42) then subtract it from the Z-1 and then re-enter the new value as listed below. If it's still loose then decrease the Z value and try again. (M851 Z-1.5 etc)

reason why i asked if it was flipped is because this is how my original filament drive looks like
Screenshot 2018-12-04 09.11.11.png

and my electronics mount is on the right side, yours is on the left
Screenshot 2018-12-04 09.11.03.png

I understand now, I ended up modeling things based on the layout of the M3 ID. The wiring looms are on the opposite side. I don't think it matters with the single extruder. I used a .15mm shim. It didn't get it to where I wanted it exactly. I don't have a machinist's feel for when things are right. Once I got it close, I just increased the z-offset by .05 mm until it looked good.

If you enabled babystepping in configuration_adv.h you can do it on the fly with LCD

Very interesting mod. I'm definitely going to be using the probe mount if things align to the m3se Hotend plate. I'm fairly new to Marlin modding but if I were to use your config file on a rev e machine(black motor) I should be able to just update the z esteps to get it to work correctly with my machine. Is that correct?

I think so. You will most likely have to monkey around with the x-axis to make sure it homes properly. The Marlin site has a description of how to verify that each axis homes properly and what option to flip if it doesn't. I spent a little bit of time with my finger on the power button try to avert disaster . I've got 2 weeks of evenings under my belt trying to figure out how the firmware works, so I'm not sure how these things impact between machine versions.