RED LIGHT . 820 W.

Randolph St. 312-733-8880...

May 21, 2000

RED LIGHT ***

820 W. Randolph St.

312-733-8880

This pan-Asian concept features a focused, easy-to-navigate menu by chef Paul Wildermuth. There are nibbles galore in addition to a half-dozen or so full-sized entrees, and tasting menus are available for the indecisive. There's also a late-night menu that kicks in about 11 p.m.

The clean, fragrant flavors of Thai food and the subtle complexities of fine French cooking merge gloriously at this stellar concept by acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, in partnership with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. The menu closely mirrors that of the New York City original, offering so many enticing dishes that the platters -- the Black Plate for appetizers, the White Plate for desserts - are frequently chosen options. The comfortable (if noisy) dining room is done in neutral tones and clean lines that are more intricate than they first appear - much like Vongerichten's food.

There may be restaurants that do a better job with Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean or Japanese cuisine, but it is a rare restaurant that can pull off all of the above. Pacific Rim is that place. Plus, its spare, contemporary ambience is a welcome change from the usual B movie, red-and-black decor.

Recommended: Sushi, chicken Don, oyster beef, Zaru-Soba.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6.25-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

WONTON GOURMET (2 forks)

2310 S. Elmhurst Rd., Mt. Prospect

847-427-1183

The wontons and dumplings are handmade and stuffed with delicate ingredients; the noodles are fresh (some made on site); and the greens are deep emerald. And while meals can be fast-paced, it is also a good place to drop in for a soul-warming bowl of noodles for dinner or late supper.

From its weekend entertainment - a belly dancer gyrates among tables and families crowd the dance floor - to its made-to-share sampler plates, conviviality is served in ample portions here. The Turkish menu is a zesty blend of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences.

The interior, all sand-blasted brick, polished oak, mahogany trim and hardwood floors, looks more like a yuppie microbrewery than an ethnic restaurant, but the pungent scent of charcoal grilling lets you know you've come to the right place. Copious portions of carefully prepared, prettily presented food are offered at very reasonable prices. Service is all smiles and super-efficient; there's a very good wine list, too. In River North, a second Reza's, at 436 W. Ontario St. (which actually is a former microbrewery), is virtually identical.