I'll be looking closer at the modification to the Sanwa switches...sounds like something that would be a nice change...so many switches don't feel "good" but they are better than others and perform well so are acceptable. I've felt many are 'not worthy'.

Sad story on the Ems, seems the mousing was the real challenge...but I guess that's the price for creating, I should know, I'm a commercial contractor

there is so much cool stuff on geek hack, much of it is related to your ability to open your wallet and that's the extent I've reached. this is different. kurplop brought a different level of class here. he's not the only one here with wooden creations for keyboards but creating a tray with this design for the ergodox is in my opinion unmatched.

Kurplop has covered all the bases....-uber-ergo-self-assembly-innovation-design-metalworking (very light finishing counts and I love the helicoils!)-very basic component electronics-soldering-woodworking-integration with existing (harder to do than it seems)-troubleshooting/trial and error-actual finish product (form and function)-AND he figured out how to post/host on a website!

All that's pretty darn good considering he's the last living midget from "The Wizard of Oz"

Follow the yellow brick road Kurplop!

P.S.- that damn keyboard is getting posted in the Split Kinesis article whenever I get around to fixing it.P.P.S.- We should name it "KurplopHack"

Just wow.Thank you very much for all those pictures, a delight to look through.

I have always been interested in splitting my kinesis and placing my slimblade between them, possibly making them into a single enclosure, but it would certainly look nowhere near as good as the job you have done, seriously amazed.

I am flattered and humbled by the responses. Several people have asked on the forum and through PM's if I'd make more to sell. I've hesitated responding because, although I'd love to make more, there are compelling reasons why I probably shouldn't. The first reason is time. Making anything custom always takes a huge amount of time, but it's more than that. The mental and emotional investment can be all consuming. I can be easily distracted by such things and my real work suffers. I am also concerned that without tailoring the tray to an individual's unique ergonomic specifications it may fall short of expectations. And last, I'm not sure that the design can't be improved on.

When I first saw the early ErgoDox thread a year ago, I knew I wanted to do something special with it. Like many of you I toyed with different options like what kind of case, tyoe of switches, keycaps, colors, amount of separation, tenting, etc. The question that was still unanswered, even as I was completing the keyboard, was "How are you going to integrate the trackball?". The problem is twofold. I really like trackball located on the right of the keyboard angled down about 20º but with a tented keyboard the ball would either be too low or I'd have to sawtooth the right side and then lose the smooth natural movement from keyboard to trackball. The alternative was to center mount the trackball, which offers symmetry and ambidextrous operation but at the expense of losing the more natural location, sloped on the right. Another option I didn't consider at the time would be to either not tent or minimally tent the keyboard.

I chose symmetry and while it works well there are some things I would address on future designs.

If I prefer the new design I'll donate this one for geekhack to auction off. How does that sound?

I would be very, very interested in your new design. If it's better than this one, I'll just ask you: How much? All costs, expenses, your time, everything? How much would it take for you to build it and not feel stressed out about it? I'm not offering a blank check here, but I honestly would like to know what something like that would cost.

I would be very, very interested in your new design. If it's better than this one, I'll just ask you: How much? All costs, expenses, your time, everything? How much would it take for you to build it and not feel stressed out about it? I'm not offering a blank check here, but I honestly would like to know what something like that would cost.

Would you like a estimate for the woodwork only? Including trackball mod? With ErgoDox? Let me know and I'll give you a ballpark figure.

I would also be interested in some further documentation on the slimblade mod as I am considering doing a similar thing on my Kinesis, apologies if this information exists somewhere and I missed it.

The only place I posted about the Slimblade mod was the Flickr link above. I have another Slimblade and will crack it open soon. I'll be sure to more fully document the procedure. Feel free to ask any specific questions about it. I will say that the Slimblade mod went very quick except for desoldering the switches. I don't know if the solder used had a higher melting point or the pins were too big for the holes but I had to drill out several that I couldn't fully desolder. Keep in mind that my soldering experience until last month was limited to sweating together copper plumbing.

Having worked on both the Expert Mouse and the Slimblade I can say that the Slimblade's newer design is apparent from an internal glance. The smaller components and advanced electronics are evidence of that. Having said that I'm not sure I prefer it to the E.M.

I am flattered and humbled by the responses. Several people have asked on the forum and through PM's if I'd make more to sell. I've hesitated responding because, although I'd love to make more, there are compelling reasons why I probably shouldn't.

Whatever you do, don't turn an interest/hobby into a 'drudge'. I'd rather drool over your designs than see you get fed up making them.

I might have a go at making my own, now that my new place is going to have a garage finally.

What kind of wood/finish did you use for the top?

The wood is genuine mahogany, not to be confused with luann(Philippine) or African mahogany. It runs 7-10 dollars per bd.ft. here, comparable to walnut. The piece I used was different than most of the boards in the stack I inspected. Most of them were less dramatically figured than the one I used. It's always a risk because until it's planed and finished you can never be sure you made the right choice. I used 6/4 stock which is 1 5/16 " finished size. I was so happy with the look, I went back and found his book-matched brother and bought it for the next project.

The finish is a long story. Being in California, where we are subject to stringent environmental regulations, I have switched to water-borne finishes for most of my work. I had originally used a shellac based sanding sealer, to give it intensity, followed with about four coats of Varathane water borne floor finish. Unfortunately, I was impatient and didn't wait long enough for the sealer to out gas fully and the finish blushed a little. The earlier pictures with the black trackball have that finish on it. When I refitted the tray with the Slimblade, I scratched the top up a little which gave me an excuse to fully strip and refinish the wood. This time I used a rattle can of Minwax Helmsman spar urethane I had in the shop. Four coats later, sanding as needed between coats, followed with a 600 grit sanding and rubbing out with a clay bar and then a paste waxing. Ironic how I have over six grand in spraying equipment and I get more complements on my spray finish from a can. Anyways, an astute observer will notice the more brilliant colors from the second finish. I wish you the best on yours and let me know if I can help.

I was wondering if anybody close to So. California would be interested in a weekend workshop this summer, where I could help you build your dream case, tray or whatever. PM me if interested.

On another topic, it's a joy to hear from all of you but I'm overwhelmed to get responses from far away places like New Zealand and Spain. Suddenly this world has gotten smaller and friendlier. Thanks all.

Yes, Honduras mahogany. I think it may include several regional species under the genuine title but doesn't include the African or Asian woods. I saw some really nice looking African mahogany but wasn't sure of it's characteristics so I went with a known commodity. You will like working with it. It cutting, planing sanding and finishing characteristics are superb. Unfortunately, after working with it you don't want to go back to the lesser woods. One caution. many of the tropical woods have a high oil content so as a precaution you may consider wiping down the applicable surfaces with lacquer thinner, acetone or denatured alcohol immediately before glueing or finishing for better adhesion.

Question:You don't happen to have a worklog thread or a blog for your other Ergodox mod that you have on flickr (this one)? I would love to subscribe to such a thread/blog to follow your progress! As it is now, I keep an open tab in my browser with that page, and check it now and then. An e-mail subscription would be more convenient. Also, it would be nice to read any comments you've made about your work.

Question:You don't happen to have a worklog thread or a blog for your other Ergodox mod that you have on flickr (this one)? I would love to subscribe to such a thread/blog to follow your progress! As it is now, I keep an open tab in my browser with that page, and check it now and then. An e-mail subscription would be more convenient. Also, it would be nice to read any comments you've made about your work.

/Nakkor

Thanks for your interest. I have been busy improving the design of my next keyboard/tray but have hesitated boring everyone with rough mockups that don't do justice to the feel of the new design. My plan was to return to the right side trackball design but have since gotten use to the center design and almost decided to just tweak it slightly by improving the thumb clusters. I'm actually very happy with the existing ergonomics of its present form and its symmetry contributes to an aesthetic that will be hard to match with the asymmetrical design.

Some points to note:- The seven thumb key section slopes down 17º from the main boards and will likely be in plane with its reverse twin on the left side. Allowing for the tenting and negative sloping of the main board halves, they will likely be very close to level in their operating position.- I replaced a 1.5 cap with an offset center 1.25 cap to go over the thumb cluster to allow closer placement of upper thumb keys- The thumb keys fan out radially from a point corresponding with the natural pivot point of my thumb and the smaller upper keys are raised enough to depress them without touching the larger keys. They are all very easy, even for my arthritic thumbs, to reach. Any keyboard designs using thumb clusters should seriously consider this design. - I decided to remove the far right column to keep the trackball as close as possible to home position. Moving the right hand 2.25"to the right centers the hand for trackball use. The keys above the ball make up for the missing keys and the larger caps on the right are for the trackball. The sloped 1.25 key on the left of the ball and the 2 arcade buttons are also for the trackball. - I think I will use part of the ErgoDox pcb's for many of the main keys but will likely make a remote board between the halves for teensy and other parts to minimize front to back depth. - I bought a mill and hope to machine the aluminum in three sections. The left and right sides, and a single piece for the thumb keys. I plan to set this into another mahogany tray.- I learned a lot trying to cast some keys and hope to do better when it's time to do the real ones.

Thanks for letting me bend your ear. As you know, nobody outside this community cares.

RE: tray 2 - I like this! I anticipate eventually building something of that sort... my attempt at drafting a desk design indicated that the keyboard-to-mouse switching is a tricky element, and having the pointing device on the right seems like a good way to go, since it allows the arm to remain straight while using it.

Radial thumb keys seem awesome, and a logical step in the evolution of the thumb cluster concept.

Putting the apostrophe key in that position means that the sequence n' (isn't, etc.) is same-finger... it's an easy same finger combo, but perhaps not as ideal as placing that key on a different finger or even the other hand...

I've been using that placement of the '" key for several months and really like it. I use it a lot for foot/inch input in CAD. I agree that it could be better on the other side, in fact I do have a second '"key on the left half in the same place but haven't gotten into the habit of using it.

The radial thumb keys are a huge improvement. Anyone trying it wouldn't want to go back to the Ergodox cluster. The keys are so easily accessible.

The side trackball is a better placement but after using the center trackball for several months it is better than I anticipated when I first started using it.

Thank you I appreciate your comments.. So far no problems. It looks as good today as the day I installed it. I was worried about the vulnerability of the un-anodized aluminum but it is well protected snuggled in the mahogany tray. The wood finish appears to be holding up very well also but I'll probably wax it every few months for additional protection.

Oh, but in the journey is where most of the fun is. I love seeing the line of thought, how things where made, what ideas got scrapped/changed/tweaked along the way, and what worked and what didn't. You always learn something or get ideas from that kind of stuff.

Cool! That could easily be a WIP of a prop for some input console to be used in some sci-fi movie. It also looks really comfortable. Just for fun I scaled it ~1:1 on the screen and put my hand over it, and I can tell that we have about the same ring finger to pinky ratio. (^_^) I really like the button config around the trackball, it not only looks fantastic, but probably will work splendidly as well. That trackball thumb key seems perfect too, as do the thumb cluster.Hehe, hot glue FTW! Fantastic stuff. I've used up a whole bunch of sticks on my custom keyboard project (a complete rebuild of a Logitech G13 keypad, with a more ergonomic layout and mechanical switches).

I was already envious of your workshop (all I have is a hobby desk), and now you've got a mill too! *turning green*

What do you use for casting keys? (and what didn't work well?) I'm planning to buy some proper RTV-2 platinum-catalyzed silicone rubber and either polyurethane or epoxy resin, depending on availability, price and performance/price. Found some interesting reading on the subject here

Bend it all you want. I'll happily read anything you post, in fact, I wish you updated more often. d(^_^ ) Hehe, know what it's like, my friends and family only show limited interest in my current keyboard project, at best. <=)

It has taken me half a lifetime to build up my shop to where it is now. In a way that's good. I've bought tools before that I forgot I bought because I didn't need them at the time. It's best to buy when you have an immediate need. Of course a great deal shouldn't be ignored either.

I'm glad you scaled my layout. The trackball buttons as well as the thumb keys really feel right where I put them. Much better than the OEM design. I go back and forth almost daily trying to decide whether to go center ball or back to the right. I just had surgery on my right hand and may need another more major one in the near future. A center trackball has a versatility factor built in. I'm use to it now but the buttons on my current working ergodox are a bit higher than perfect because the ergodox thumb clusters are in plane with the main ergodox body. The tenting of course elevates the center more and leaves the trackball buttons slightly high relative to the ball and keyboard. The new thumb cluster would solve that problem.

I may not be the best to give advise on the key cap casting. I, too, used the Guerrilla Guide for direction. It is a great resource. I used Quantum Solutions QM 262 for the mold. My first attempts had many bubbles on the surface. I ended up making a vacuum chamber which is probably essential with that product. I tried getting Innovative polymers urethane but they never responded to my inquiries so I got something on Ebay that is very thin bodied and seemed to work fine. I'll look it up and report later. I tried tinting with mixed results.

Not to derail...but back to the comments about posting/blogging intricate and formative details that may be nothing more than false starts at best.

I'd venture to suggest that even if Kurplop considered it nothing more than journaling, that having the diary of the works in progress has a little if not tremendous value to others and even to himself (possibly). The evolution of ideas/projects can be fascinating, and yes, often fascinatingly boring. But there's still value in the process. I would like to strongly suggest that Kurplop reconsider to take the moments (ok, lots of moments) to at the very least pop a few pics and captions here and there for those that would choose to follow (yes, me). At the end of the journey (not really, it never really ends till they plant you in the ground) there are points at which the body of work becomes more than what you may have intended.

I say this because of my experience with the Split Kinesis Project (which I still haven't fixed). I started it only as a resource for myself to have links, pics, thoughts, ideas, lists in one place. It almost got great. Almost. I came to find out the collection of info, some on the web easily found, some deep web, and of course all the work I had done became extremely helpful and inspired others in ways I couldn't have imagined. I should let you read some of the emails! And, I should let someone fix the damn info

Kurplops work has many merits, obviously of form and function, but also a testament of quality, standards, detail, and it's damn original. He should realize that most of these points are mostly embodied by most of the geek-a-lopes that spend endless hours on this site (not me of course, I'm the exception). Perhaps if Kurplop considers that the compliments posted are generally more than just a simple compliment, he will consider investing (it's asking a lot) a little time to just make a quick jot of info, train of thought, pic of mock up made of brownies, etc. I mean really, isn't that how the flux-capacitor came into being?

The info doesn't have to be particularly well presented or sorted in any particular way. Just showing various aspects is educational and entertaining. There are people to this day that have no idea how electricity gets to their computer, all they know is that there are "power plants". I don't want to be one of those people that believes there are "Kurplop plants".

Yes, I have considered it. It makes a lot of sense for travel use because it's flat and there is nothing to fall out. Also the gestures open up a lot of convenient options. However, because my hands have little sensitivity left after 60 years of abuse I struggle to use one; I can't tell if I'm even touching the screen. I need greater tactility and noise. Because I use a Mac for most things and Windows for architectural drawings I thought about mounting a Magic Mouse on the left side and a Slimblade on the right of my proposed desktop keyboard tray (the ErgoPlop). Being fixed, it would lose some functionality but still be useful and in a small package.

My design priority is that form follows function. The Ergo-to-go is close to perfect for my ergonomic needs and it follows that it's very comfortable to use. I still have to tweak the placement and height of the upper thumb keys and trackball and design the wood palm rests and body but I'm about ready to start milling some aluminum on my new (used) knee mill.

You pretty much read my mind - the main thing I was thinking about was how the trackball would be falling out for a mobile platform, which was why I was thinking about a trackpad. I do understand the preference for a trackball though, having tried the logitech t650 touchpad and the kensington expert mouse, the expert mouse is the one I go to when I want to get work done speedily.

I've just looked up the magic mouse (haven't really been following Apple products since my college days). Very interesting ideas that could be tried with that, even if it wasn't being used as a mouse - especially with Apple's gestures support. Just a random thought, maybe you could consider putting a magic mouse where the bottom arcade button is, and shift the button up, nearer to the trackball? That way, you could have the best of both worlds, much like your desktop version. (The amount of cables and charging of devices while in use however, might be a slight issue).

I can tell that it is really comfortable, because the position of the keyboard is pretty much how I use my unmodified ergodox sometimes; I take a spare wooden board and place it across my lap to act as a desk, then incline my ergodox at almost the same angle as you did. Then I simply sit back, let my arms rest on the chair's arm rests, and let my fingers type while my arms dangle comfortably above the keyboard (the downside of this is that I don't have mouse access when I do this - which your design have thorough addressed). It's pretty much how I envisioned how I would want to mod it (sans the custom radial thumb cluster), especially on the point on breaking off on the thumbcluster to have it rest flat while the rest of the board is inclined.

Also, after staring at the prototype for more than a few times, I only just realized you cut off the modifiers on the outer edges for a total of 66 keys. Interesting choice - a leaner version would mean an increased need for an optimized layout - which really lends itself to what the ergodox was about in the first place, at least to me. I wish I could take the time to do some mods of my own (I have a spare set of pcbs I gotten for this purpose), but real life commitments beckon at the moment.

Definitely looking forward to your progress on this, but do take care and get ample rest. That scar looks... ouch. Wishing you a speedy recovery from the surgery.

Larken- Interesting idea about the MM placement. If I like using it that much I would seriously consider it, but the extra depth it would add to the travel version would add more size to something that is as big as I'd want. Maybe for the desktop version.

It will be critical to get the clearance just right on the trackball top housing so it can be removed for cleaning but stay put when flipped or tossed about.

Actually the modifiers keys are there, or will be. I shifted the placement of the left keys over to use 1x caps and I never cut the squares for the right side because it was a template for the desktop version which will eliminate the row for closer trackball placement. I think I'll retain them because the extra width is less critical to me than the depth. I did think 1x caps would be adequate because I will use them for lesser used keys, probably not modifiers.

The surgery went well as is the recovery. I just can't use a jackhammer for a while. The doctor laughed when He read in my report that I've had this problem since 1970. I just don't like to rush things.

Larken- Interesting idea about the MM placement. If I like using it that much I would seriously consider it, but the extra depth it would add to the travel version would add more size to something that is as big as I'd want. Maybe for the desktop version.

It will be critical to get the clearance just right on the trackball top housing so it can be removed for cleaning but stay put when flipped or tossed about.

Actually the modifiers keys are there, or will be. I shifted the placement of the left keys over to use 1x caps and I never cut the squares for the right side because it was a template for the desktop version which will eliminate the row for closer trackball placement. I think I'll retain them because the extra width is less critical to me than the depth. I did think 1x caps would be adequate because I will use them for lesser used keys, probably not modifiers.

I definitely understand about the MM. The trackball by itself would be sufficient in most cases. For the desktop version it would probably be better served to keep it as a standard mouse though, heh. I can imagine the looks on people's faces when you whip out the ergo-to-go and start working on it.

As for the modifiers, I did take out a measuring tape to compare against your picture with the steel ruler in it - and was thinking that even with modifiers included, it was another inch or a half, give or take. But I did do some thinking about the layouts - and realised that with some tweaking, I could probably still use my ergodox without those modifier keys. Its doable, but of course, not preferable as one would have to relearn a slightly tweaked layout again. I was thinking that you shrunk it down to the 60% convention without actually meaning to.

I imagine that the elevated height would be the main cause of the bulk - and was wondering if it was going to be flat underneath, or if you plan to have the bottom sculpted in a way that conforms to the shape of your legs, while retain freedom of movement, to a certain degree.

p.s. the depth itself could lend itself to actually holding a mini-computer inside. or one could stick a raspberry pi in there and have a operational linux box within a keyboard tray, granted, one couldn't do much without a screen. (I'm just thinking about the possibility, and definitely not suggesting that it be done. As a utilitarian ergonomic solution for on-the-go situations, your current design is near perfect. Anything else would be extraneous, though fun to think about )

CPTBadAss- I have intentionally hidden my projects in the ergonomics section because I think it's the most important area in all of geekhackdom. Because of that I probably hasn't gotten the exposure it might get mainstreaming it more.

Thanks for your kind words. It's always a thrill hearing from a geekhack luminary such as you.

I'm almost embarrassed to say I do CAD work. I'm a remodeling contractor and I draw construction doc's for my business but I think I was faster with a pencil. I didn't touch a computer until I was in my 50's so I'm a bit digitally challenged.

The trackball works well with my hand issues though I'm sure it's not as fast as a mouse. I just can't use one for an extended period of time.

I'd be happy to answer any questions but am not quite sure whether you are asking about the finished "Executive" or one of the current projects. Clockwise from noon the Sanwa Switches on the Mahogany Executive unit activate click,forward,back and right click on my Mac which I use for general use and click, back, middle click and right click in Windows where I use an architectural program.

It really is close to being perfect for my needs.

Larken- A lot of good ideas. I've wondered too about what to do with the space under the tent. The problem is I don't have the skills to do anything beyond "hot wiring " together existing components. If you or anyone else can help fill in the gaps I could repay you with a completed unit. Until then maybe I'll make a compartment under there and store my lunch in it.