A serious stalling problem...

I have a 93 century and ever since spring it has had a wicked tendancy to stall at random times, about 3-10 times per 1/2 hour trips. I have a repair manual for the car and I've run down most of the solutions there with no avail. Its not the transmition, and Im pretty sure its not the emmitions sensors. The car runs nicely, but out of nowhere it stalls, sometimes sputters onece or twice before it goes out, but not always, and always starts back up no problem, usually to stall again a few more times before it calms down. The car is MUCH more likely to stall in warmer weather or after its had a chance to warm up (about 15 driving minutes).Its not safe anymore and I cant afford a new car, so if anyone can help, It would be much appreciated. thanx.

I have a 1994 2.2 liter,4 cylinder Buick Century with 69,000 miles on it.The car runs great, good gas mileage etc. One problem has been bugging me for months.The car is garaged every night... I have some difficulty starting the car each morning.It takes about 30 seconds before the car tries to start and when it does, it barely keeps running.After several seconds the engine smooths out and I can go on my way. After that first start, the car will start immediately all day long with no problem. The car accelerates fine.I have changed the spark plugs, and fuel filter with no success.Would appreciate any comments and suggestions.

Intermittent stalling seems to be a problem on all or at least many of the buicks, Mine is a 98 LeSabre with only 36,000 original miles and it does the same thing. Stalls like it is not getting gas, but immediately (after coasting 20 seconds) will restart. Have replaced the MAP sensor and checked the the fuel system up and down. Plenty of pressure when it is setting in the mechanic's shop. the ignition is working fine too. It tries to run but doesn't have the fuel. It always happens when it is hot. I may run a hundred miles and then it may stall every 4 or 5 miles. It never fails to restart. It will have a noticeable lack of acceleration power before it dies and may run for several miles like that before it stalls. I noticed that someone mentioned on another web site that it may be underhood temperature causing the fuel to boil and create vapor lock. I guess that could cause the power loss. Anyway in my case it is becoming a safety hazard as I run along the freeway. Many people report the same thing. The Buick people must have figured out what it is. Does anyone out there know?

I have a 2001 Regal 50,000 miles. My car also stalls as I'm driving and starts right back up. However, lately if I turn the car off to run into a store sometimes it won't turn back over. It turns and turns but doesn't crank. I usually have to let it sit 15-30 min before it will start. I also had my check engine light come on twice and was told it was my gas cap. The light mysteriously went out before I got the new cap so who knows what the real problem is here. Any suggestions?

My 1992 buick century stalls also. It seems that I need to go about 30 miles before it stalls and then it stalls every 10-15 miles after that (10-15min). I replaced the fuel pump and filter but it still stalls while driving. I was told the problem was either fuel system or electrical system related. I was also told to drive it until it stalls, then stick a screwdriver in a spark plug wire, hold the screwdriver close to the block, turn the key and see if I had spark. I suspect electrical because it stops without chugging. I have been told electrical could be a relay, Ignition Control Module, CEM, or a crankshaft positioning sensor. Fuel system faults could be the fuel pump, filter, or vapor lock.

Question: 1992 Buick/century mileage: 92,000. I am having some trouble with my car. The problem occurred suddenly. The car starts and runs fine until about 15-20 minutes into the drive, then it just shuts off. After about a 5-10 min wait it fires right back up. Then after another short drive it shuts down again. Then it repeats the process. I found that when it shuts down I lose spark. The ignition coils check out o.k. In addition, I still have power to the ignition module so I changed the module, the problem still exists. I looked at the engine-wiring diagram and found two temperatures. Sensors 1 runs the fan (which seems to cycle o.k.) the other sends a signal to the temperature gauge and to the ECM. I am guessing the problem is temperature related, so I changed the temperature sensor and the problem still exists. I got three codes from the computer. 12, which I think, is a gm computer. Test code 21, I do not know and 42, I do not know. I am pulling out my hair on this one (what little I have left) are all these sensors really needed. Cars used to run fine without them. I hope you can help. Thank you.

Test codes should have letters in front of them P0042 is a HO2Sensor. P0021 and POO12 are canshaft position sensor. I have found if you have a senseor go out altogether or intermitantly, then the car will not run or it will run poorly. Get the DTC read with a OBD reader. It shoud give you the entire code. Then look up the code online and it will tell you what it means. That is just the start. Once you know which sensor, you may be able to change it yourself, Like the Heated O2 sensor, the camshaft sensor, look for loose connection or bad wire. When and if you bring the car in, at least you will be informed about what may be wrong with the carhttp://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/home_garde...

I too have 92 century about 95,000 miles runs well most of the time. Occasionally, it will start to idle and run very fast as if it were possesed. Must place foot firmly to floor at stop signs. It wants to fly off the start and feels like neutral slam. It will run at this very high rpm for awhile and then stall out. After 10 minutes or so will fire up as if nothing ever happened. Can go for days without episode. So far have changed tps sensor,coolant sensor,iac valvue,tried maf sensor. I am told it could be ecm itself or coil or ignition coil module. I am running out of money and patience. Please post if anyone has success.

I have a 93 century and ever since spring it has had a wicked tendancy to stall at random times, about 3-10 times per 1/2 hour trips. I have a repair manual for the car and I've run down most of the solutions there with no avail. Its not the transmition, and Im pretty sure its not the emmitions sensors. The car runs nicely, but out of nowhere it stalls, sometimes sputters onece or twice before it goes out, but not always, and always starts back up no problem, usually to stall again a few more times before it calms down. The car is MUCH more likely to stall in warmer weather or after its had a chance to warm up (about 15 driving minutes).Its not safe anymore and I cant afford a new car, so if anyone can help, It would be much appreciated. thanx.

Hi Jeremie, I have the same stalling problem with my 2001 Park Ave. If you have found a solution, please forward it to me at sudin@coro.org. Thanx.

Does anyone know if replacing the ignition module solved the stalling problem?

Chris The diagnosis is loss of spark. OEM, Ignition Control Module and Temp Sensor have not yielded the desired results. Research seems to point in the direction of the Crankshaft positioning sensor. Will try this weekend

O2 Sensor(can cause Engine lights and vehicle still start operate good intermittenly) or Fuel system Fuel pump/relay/TPS SENSOR EGR valve. I suggest you pay the $90-$150 @ reputable professional mechanic for diagnostis to go straight to the calprit. Then get that culprit fixed instead of guessing which one of these parts ranging from $65-$300 is bought by you unneccessarily and aftewards you still have symptoms because that part really wasn't the culprit..

celeste wrote:

I have a 2001 Regal 50,000 miles. My car also stalls as I'm driving and starts right back up. However, lately if I turn the car off to run into a store sometimes it won't turn back over. It turns and turns but doesn't crank. I usually have to let it sit 15-30 min before it will start. I also had my check engine light come on twice and was told it was my gas cap. The light mysteriously went out before I got the new cap so who knows what the real problem is here. Any suggestions?

O2 Sensor(can cause Engine lights and vehicle still start operate good intermittenly) or Fuel system Fuel pump/relay/TPS SENSOR EGR valve. I suggest you pay the $90-$150 @ reputable professional mechanic for diagnostis to go straight to the calprit. Then get that culprit fixed instead of guessing which one of these parts ranging from $65-$300 is bought by you unneccessarily and aftewards you still have symptoms because that part really wasn't the culprit..<quoted text>

Gee thanks for the comments. I took my car to an ASE Certified mechanic who diagnosed the problem as a loss of spark. His computer showed no error codes, the check engine light never came on, yet the motor stopped running. Is there some other type of diagnostic tool that could be used to discover the culprit? I'm getting tired of replacing things that don't solve the problem.

A decent code reader has real time sensor outputs. Your mechanic should be able to analize the problem by studying the output and comparing them to the ranges given in the shop manual. It is hard to guess at the problem. The reader can give you info on O2 sensors, TPS, MAF, MAP and other real time outputs. I have an auto-x-ray 4000 and it has save me thousands of $$$. Price is about $400., A manual is a couple of hundred. But if you are mechanically inclined, it is worth the money. If your mechanic say there are no codes and can't tell you what the problem is then he probably doesn't have good tools. Ask about his ability to analize real time outputs, if he can't, look for a mechanic who understands the technology. Dealer shops may be the best bet, even though they may charge you more. They will have the tools and training to figure out the problem. I just don't trust that they won't sell you componenets that you nay not need. Be informed about the possibilities of what might be wrong with the car and you will probably not get ripped off. I hate getting ripped off, so I spent $600 dollars on the reader and the manual. Weird.

I have a 93 century and ever since spring it has had a wicked tendancy to stall at random times, about 3-10 times per 1/2 hour trips. I have a repair manual for the car and I've run down most of the solutions there with no avail. Its not the transmition, and Im pretty sure its not the emmitions sensors. The car runs nicely, but out of nowhere it stalls, sometimes sputters onece or twice before it goes out, but not always, and always starts back up no problem, usually to stall again a few more times before it calms down. The car is MUCH more likely to stall in warmer weather or after its had a chance to warm up (about 15 driving minutes).Its not safe anymore and I cant afford a new car, so if anyone can help, It would be much appreciated. thanx.

Did replacing the Crankshaft position sensor work? I have a 86 Buick Century with the 2.5 ltr. When car sits running for a while ,sometimes it will die. Will not restart til the next morning after it cools down.

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