Reply to Thread

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

06-25-2012 08:37 AM

ap72

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwater

I forgot it is a wide band sensor,also if you use one of those anti fouler female couplers,it needs to be cut about 1/8 in. or less below the hex to get as much expoesure to the sensor as possible. It needs to be brazed or welded,no solder.

Are you sure? Wide band sensors are not 35 bucks. Narrow band sensors are though. Also the bosch 4 wire sensor you described sounds like most narrow band sensors you'll find on any newer car in the junk yard, I know because I use them fairly often.

06-25-2012 07:28 AM

dogwater

I forgot it is a wide band sensor,also if you use one of those anti fouler female couplers,it needs to be cut about 1/8 in. or less below the hex to get as much expoesure to the sensor as possible. It needs to be brazed or welded,no solder.

06-24-2012 07:08 PM

ap72

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68NovaSS

Posts aren't arbitrarily moved for no reason. Board guidelines, mod forum discussions and management determine what belongs where, and that does not include you. You can still "love" threads, just go to where they're at, when they move there are redirects. Gotta love smart remarks and attitude from someone who's been here for only three and a half days!

I've been here for a lot longer than 3.5 days and I know that's a line of BS as threads are moved on a whim. Perhaps a whim of multiple moderators but still without any discernable rhyme or reason. As long as two or mods agree though it must be legitimate.

Not all of the mods are full of bull, many of them do a good job, but a few of the bad ones get more notice.

06-24-2012 05:47 PM

68NovaSS

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

love threads like this.I wonder how long until its moved?

Posts aren't arbitrarily moved for no reason. Board guidelines, mod forum discussions and management determine what belongs where, and that does not include you. You can still "love" threads, just go to where they're at, when they move there are redirects. Gotta love smart remarks and attitude from someone who's been here for only three and a half days!

06-24-2012 03:53 PM

75gmck25

The main reason for using a heated wideband sensor is that you have more flexibility on where to locate it since it does not depend on engine heat. Simple 1 or two wire sensors need engine heat to get to operating temps.

A heated sensor can be put almost anywhere in the pipe (even in the tailpipe) and it will still get a good reading. Just make sure its mounted in the top of the pipe with the electrical plug pointed upward or 30 degrees either side of straight up, so that moisture does not settle on the sensor.

Bruce

06-24-2012 03:51 PM

ap72

That's a heated narrow band sensor, not a wide band.

06-24-2012 01:06 PM

vinniekq2

o2

love threads like this.I wonder how long until its moved?

06-24-2012 09:16 AM

LATECH

When I replace an O2 with a generic one, naturally the wire colors/orientation are a question.Ohming it for the heater circuit is a good way.
Also like you said, I use a propane torch and a DVOM on volts setting to check the O2 sensor output, heat the sensor, let the heatstream from the torch pass across the vents or flutes of the business end of the sensor, and Voila...sensor generates a voltage.
Chinga dera, chingadara not sure how it is spelled, but it is a a funny way to say " a thing for which I know not of what it is called." LOL
Later Vato.

06-24-2012 09:09 AM

dogwater

O2 sensor FYI

Maybe this can help someone.I have a barely used O2 sensor that Im going to put into my Camaro.I have one of those green,yellow,red o2 gauges (its a wide band) .The o2 sens.is a Bosch 4 wire,didn't know what wires were what so grab my v/meter the 2 white wires are the heater wires,they had resistance.The gray & black wires read o2 gases,gray is for the gauge,black is ground.When I put my meter on the gry. & blk. wire an ohm. them,it was open,so I applied heat to the working end of the sens.,changed meter to read voltage an got some low voltage readings.Im only using one o2 sens.I welded in one of those chingadaras for spark plugs, anti fouler things, use a 14mm.I welded it into the collector facing upwards.I don't see a need for a narrow band gauge if all your using it for is to get your carb. into the ballpark.Its been a big,big help in understanding & tuning the carb. Gauge was around 30.00,anti fouler was like 8.00, 02 sensors are (really all that is needed is a 1 wire sensor) about 35.00.