Full text issue week 02-2017

ISSN 1994-2419

Issue Week 02-2017

Summary of news published since Week 51-2016

THIS WEEK’s prediction that sales of men’s underwear will be led by growing demand for private label merchandise will come as no surprise to the sector’s professionals. Despite the gains made by manufacturers’ brands in past decades, many men everywhere, or their mothers and wives, continue to buy their underwear from distributors that operate their own private label. Because underwear buying habits tend to be passed from one generation to the next in most families, purchasing criteria for that category tend to be questioned less frequently than those for more visible clothing, which puts a brake on evolution. But the market does evolve, though the rate may be slow, and the efforts of commercial brands owners to strengthen the impact of their label are fully justified. Consumers do switch brands and when they do so, it is in favour of a label that they have come to know well.

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

PEOPLE: key personnel changes

BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

MEN’S UNDERWEAR: mass market set for growth

A NEW GLOBAL market study on the men’s underwear sector published by Persistence Market Research predicts that the market share of volume distributors’ private labels will expand at a CAGR of 4.5 per cent in the six years to 2020 to account for 53.8 per cent of total sales. It also states that the 36-45 age group accounts for over 24 per cent of sales, followed by the 26-35 segment.

Jockey International

The trend in sales reflects the ageing of the generation that initially launched the surge in sales of men’s underwear.

SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

HYOSUNG: new fabrics to be proposed at ISPO

DEVELOPED by Hyosung in partnership with Best Pacific Textiles, new fabrics to be presented at the Ispo salon in February 2017 will feature interesting combinations of technologies. These include MIPAN® Aqua X cooling, uv, & moisture management nylon with odour neutralizing creora Fresh elastane as well as Freshgear® odour neutralizing polyester with creora Fresh elastane.

These and other comparable developments illustrate how different elements of functionality contribute to the evolution of bodywear fabrics.

BODYWEAR fabrics specialist Piave Maitex unveiled the first details of its new collection of fabrics for S/S 2018. The latest range includes a broader selection of mesh power bands as well as a more varied range of fabrics featuring 3D effects. It also includes a new selection of innovative printed designs. Go to http://www.sibilintimate.com/piave-maitex-2018-collection/ for more details of the new range.

Piave Maitex

As it does every season, this supplier’s range provides fabric qualities and designs for virtually all applications in the field of intimate apparel.

PENN TS: Powerlace shapewear fabric rewarded

FEATURING a blend of Micro Modal/cotton with Lycra elastane, the Powerlace shapewear fabric developed by Penn TS won the Interfeel Award adjudged by the Interfilière Shanghai salon in the shapewear category. The fabric provides a soft hand with modern design combining a lace look with open mesh. Building on its success, Penn TS developed functional mesh fabrics using the same technology. Other novelties include a knit fabric with woven character, using Anti-Ox yarn from Novarel that delivers Vitamin E and caffein to maintain and augment skin elasticity as well as a fabric with improved moisture management using Lycra Cooling technology.

Powerlace by Penn TS

The Powerlace fabric was deemed to provide the optimum mix of technology and attractive design.

THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

LVMH: second swimwear acquisition reported

THROUGH its L Capital private equity arm, luxury group LVMH is reported to be negotiating the acquisition of the Tigerlily swimwear brand from Billabong in Australia. In December 2014, LVMH had bought the Seafolly swimwear business, also in Australia.

Tigerlilly

The deeper involvement in swimwear by LVMH reflects the growing impact of luxury in that sector of the fashion industry.

LIVY: new label supported by Etam

CREATED by Livy Lisa Chavy, who is artistic director of the Undiz range distributed by Etam, a new lingerie collection is to be launched in France under the Livy label. Priced at around EUR 130 for a bra and briefs set, the range is described as affordable luxury and features three lines: fashion-forward and innovative New York, chic and couture Paris and relaxed slow-life Los Angeles. Although first deliveries are to be made for S/S 2017, wider distribution, including the start of export shipments, is planned for the second half of the year. Creative inputs are said to be multinational and it is hoped to develop export sales rapidly.

Etam

If the new label exploits the full benefits of the Etam supply chain, it could well become rapidly established in several European markets.

AGENT PROVOCATEUR: chain seeks buyer

PRIVATE equity firm 3i is reported to have appointed the Rothschild investment bank to sell its troubled Agent Provocateur lingerie chain. Reports suggest that 3i might decide to retain a minority interest in the business but the parties concerned refused to comment. In September 2016, the value of the chain had been estimated at GBP 39m but six months earlier it had been valued at GBP 42m.

Agent Provocateur

Whatever the merits of the business, the Agent Provocateur label is so perfectly adapted to a lingerie brand that the name alone reflects considerable value.

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

OYSHO: flagship store opened in Brussels

THE LINGERIE chain of the Inditex distribution group, which trades as Oysho, opened a 700m2 flagship store in Brussels to confirm the extension of its operations to Belgium where it opened its first store in February 2016. At the same time, it was announced that the chain had generated an EBIT of EUR 70m in 2015, up by 2 per cent against 2014.

Oysho

The new opening suggests that further expansion is being planned in Belgium, where the chain could prove a formidable competitors for smaller local chains and independent specialists.

PEOPLE: key personnel changes

ROB HICKING: named Brand Director of Speedo

BRITISH clothing group Pentland Brands announced the appointment of Rob Hicking, currently CFO of its Speedo swimwear concern, as Brand Director of the business. The announcement follows the resignation of David Robinson as chief of the swimwear brand.