PT100 fault

Ok, on my duplicator 6 I have a PT100 temp sensor going to the PT100 board (plugged in on the right side) with the left channel I have the resistor that came with it. I have the PT100 PCB screwed down tight and ensure the connection everywhere is secure. I even ran a heat soak at 260 degrees and it worked perfectly. Now when I print, at the same point on every print I get a heater fault and the temperature is 2000. the only way I can clear it (that I know of) is to turn the printer off or issue a "stop" command and it works properly again.

Actually I saw in an earlier post someone talked about noise from the cooling fan being a problem and it appears changing my PWM from 500 to 10 solves the problem. I can see the noise on the temp measurement graph, but at least I can print without a fault now.

I have a shielded PT100 cable for an ultimaker 2 coming to see if that can further help.

Actually I saw in an earlier post someone talked about noise from the cooling fan being a problem and it appears changing my PWM from 500 to 10 solves the problem. I can see the noise on the temp measurement graph, but at least I can print without a fault now.

I have a shielded PT100 cable for an ultimaker 2 coming to see if that can further help.

Using twisted pair cables for the PT100 should do the trick I used to have this issues when I used std wire and ran it in the same bunch as a motor!

I had this problem before buying Duet with RAMPS. I used PT100 amplifier board and the problem was that I put the board directly on the head and bundled all possible negative wires together. When moving to Duet I separated ale negative wires and my PT100 is connected using 4 wires. Now I don't have any problems.

@dragonn 4-wire will be the best thing I do prior to installing the shielded PT100 just to see if the noise improves. The issue is that I am using the ribbon cable that came with the duplicator and I think it is causing more issues then not.

Ok, so just to update, I went from having tons of noise and heater faults to the signal looking smooth by using the 4 wire hook up with twisted leads. It is super easy to setup. I bought the wire already twisted (link below) and soldered the pair to each end of the PT100. Now with the FAN back at the normal frequency I see zero ripple in the measured temp.