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i dont have my reciever yet, it is still shipping. Can anyone tell me, it takes like one minute. Does the Dynamic range control (drc) reset to auto after a power down, or does it remain at what you set it (off)

Bought a Harmony 510 remote programmed it but same results, no matter what activitie you choose input cycles to tv and you have manually go to sat/cbl. The weird thing is at first it showes sat/cab then it cycles, you
here what sounds like a relay pick up and then goes to tv. This happens
for my dvd, vcr, tv. If I can this one problem worked out the system would work great.

thanks

I'm not sure if this is what you mean, But I'm sure this info will help someone. I to was having a issue with my 789 at turn on and the AVR's tv input , My tv is connected by hdmi to the AVR , HD cable/dvr comcast box hooked up by component to RCA #3 and upscaled from 1080i to 1080p , my sony 350 BR player hooked up to AVR input HDMI #1 , convert OFF. AVR input set to TV , turned off AVR to standby waited an hour turned AVR ON , it would be on BLU-RAY !! Did this every time , the fix was to move the Blu-ray HDMI input from # 1 to #3 and besure to also change the INPUT ASSIGN . It now always turns ON with input set to TV input. This may or maynot be the right way or the only way to do this , but it worked for me !!

I am confused by both of your uses of the phrase "TV input" as the only TV input possible would be an optical cable from the TV. The HDMI cable going to the TV is "output" only and not another input. Also, neither of you has indicated what you have the STANDBY SOURCE (p. 28) setting at (LAST, HDMI1, HDMI2, HDMI3, HDMI4).

I am confused by both of your uses of the phrase "TV input" as the only TV input possible would be an optical cable from the TV. The HDMI cable going to the TV is "output" only and not another input. Also, neither of you has indicated what you have the STANDBY SOURCE (p. 28) setting at (LAST, HDMI1, HDMI2, HDMI3, HDMI4).

hdmi input sat/cbl =3
dvd =1
standby source= last

I played around a little and found that when you unplug hdmi cable going to my tv from the av receiver the a/v receiver goes to sat/cbl and stays there.
Plug hdmi cable back in turn on componets cycles back to tv input.
(tv is a Samsung ln46a850)

I am confused by both of your uses of the phrase "TV input" as the only TV input possible would be an optical cable from the TV. The HDMI cable going to the TV is "output" only and not another input. Also, neither of you has indicated what you have the STANDBY SOURCE (p. 28) setting at (LAST, HDMI1, HDMI2, HDMI3, HDMI4).

I see what you mean from your end . It means, the way I use and have my AVR set up to watch HD cable TV.

This has been driving me up a wall, maybe you guys can help out being that I just slapped this pretty new reciever in and everything works but I can't do anything to get 5.1 out of my xbox 360. I have used the HDMI cable and I get stereo 2.0, I have used the component video -> HDMI to tv with optical audio and still stereo 2.0. I have used the same component with RCA audio and still 2.0 stereo. I'm pulling my hair out on this one, can someone offer some assistance? Is there a setting that I am missing? I made sure to only have one source of audio going to the receiver at a time. I just find it odd that I am still not getting anything even over the optical audio connection.

Well now it gets even better, I turned on my bluray player that did work with great sound. That is all stereo now as well. I performed a reset of the box using the guide - hold surround buttons while powering on, and now audyssey won't output anything to my speakers. Test tones work in section 4 - Manual setup though. Is there something I can do with this or do I have a faulty box?

I have two excellent old BAs from the days of "stereo" for the front or back, a new Klipsch center I bought awhile back but have never been able to use, and two good, but lesser quality smallish satellites I picked up somewhere along the line--also back in the days of stereo.

This sounds like my setup in a nutshell, including the vintage Boston Acoustics. What model BAs do you have? I have the BA150 for my Front L/R. The woofers and the terminals in the back have both been replaced, but they still sound great. They were my Dad's college speakers (purchased with a student loan--of course)

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomuchtv

Just a word of warning to the few who enjoy the sound of vinyl records, FEED BACK and LOW FREQUENCY RUMBLE . The new AVR hardware is not really set up for those problems from the past , and if not careful the sub and some other speakers just may be damaged.. Be sure to use the low freq cut offs and filters for starters , If the Carver has those features, it may be wise to use it as a phone preamp and USE the LINE OUT and NOT the tape out , to a high level input on the AVR unit. Digital was the cure for those problems of the past century enjoy

I'm in similar situation to Dr. &y, and I'm planning on buying a phono preamp (my previous Sony a/v receiver had a phono stage although it wasn't very good). I didn't realize that feed back and low frequency rumble could/would be an issue. Do I NEED a phono preamp with a rumble filter, or can I adjust things on the 1910 to compensate? Also, you speak of filters--is this a feature on the receiver or do I need to purchase something else? How do you protect against feed back? I know this isn't a vinyl gear thread, but since it was brought up here... I have a Rega P3 turntable, and I was leaning towards the Cambridge Audio 540P, which doesn't have a rumble filter. If I step it up to the 640P, which does have a rumble filter, will I (or rather, my gear) be ok?

P.S. Thanks to all the experts on here as well as the average Joe's like me that asked lots of questions. It made my setup of the 1910 yesterday smooth as butter. I've been lurking here a while and I'm glad I wasn't left to try and figure things out on my own.

I played around a little and found that when you unplug hdmi cable going to my tv from the av receiver the a/v receiver goes to sat/cbl and stays there.
Plug hdmi cable back in turn on componets cycles back to tv input.
(tv is a Samsung ln46a850)

My question is why would you do this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomuchtv

I see what you mean from your end . It means, the way I use and have my AVR set up to watch HD cable TV.

Ah .. it helps if you use the proper setting names ... if I understand you correctly, you are referring to the HDMI Audio OUT which you have set to TV vice AMP.

Quote:

Originally Posted by altspacen

This has been driving me up a wall, maybe you guys can help out being that I just slapped this pretty new reciever in and everything works but I can't do anything to get 5.1 out of my xbox 360. I have used the HDMI cable and I get stereo 2.0, I have used the component video -> HDMI to tv with optical audio and still stereo 2.0. I have used the same component with RCA audio and still 2.0 stereo. I'm pulling my hair out on this one, can someone offer some assistance? Is there a setting that I am missing? I made sure to only have one source of audio going to the receiver at a time. I just find it odd that I am still not getting anything even over the optical audio connection.

First off, you won't get DD 5.1 from an RCA cable so take that one out of the equation. The fact that it's not being sent over either the HDMI or optical tells me you probably don't have a DD 5.1 source you're playing or don't have that particular track selected on the particular game or movie. What surround mode are you using on the AVR, STANDARD (DD 5.1/DD PL II?). What speaker icons are showing up on the left side of the front of the AVR display? That tells you what is being received. If you've only got 2 lights FL and FR, then the xBox is only sending a 2.0 signal.

First off, you won't get DD 5.1 from an RCA cable so take that one out of the equation. The fact that it's not being sent over either the HDMI or optical tells me you probably don't have a DD 5.1 source you're playing or don't have that particular track selected on the particular game or movie. What surround mode are you using on the AVR, STANDARD (DD 5.1/DD PL II?). What speaker icons are showing up on the left side of the front of the AVR display? That tells you what is being received. If you've only got 2 lights FL and FR, then the xBox is only sending a 2.0 signal.

As far as the RCA connection - I couldn't even get a false 5.1 setup to work through the simulated surround.

I can confirm that I have a DD 5.1 source because I wound up returning the reciever after I could no longer get Audessey to start - it wouldn't output to a speaker, just hang there for an hour or so before I turned it off and went to bestbuy - and plugged everything in as I had it, ran the new startup and right away it picked up the DD 5.1 through the optical. *shrugs* Guess I got a fluke off the shelf. Everything works great now.

Oh I'm aware of that, I'm used to using a lot of different electronic components there is no such thing as a 0% failure rate. Had no other issues with it and everything still works great so far! Klipsch fronts and center with entry level best buy polks for surround. Looking at getting some stands for the polks so I can run 7.1 and just have a spare crappy center speaker for zone 2 in my bathroom. Just need to upgrade my woofer now from the psw10 and I'll be set for now.

I am confused by both of your uses of the phrase "TV input" as the only TV input possible would be an optical cable from the TV. The HDMI cable going to the TV is "output" only and not another input. Also, neither of you has indicated what you have the STANDBY SOURCE (p. 28) setting at (LAST, HDMI1, HDMI2, HDMI3, HDMI4).

After changing things around I disconnected my Samsung and connected my son's 19" magnavox and everthing worked fine, so after reading my samsung
manual I found Samsungs Anynet+ system was messing the avr up.
I disabled Anynet+ and everthing works great.

oh ahah. I was looking for the longest time at the bottom of the page for it! LOL. I guess i never have seen it because i usually read logged out, and only log in when posting. This will be a VERY usefull tool

This sounds like my setup in a nutshell, including the vintage Boston Acoustics. What model BAs do you have? I have the BA150 for my Front L/R. The woofers and the terminals in the back have both been replaced, but they still sound great. They were my Dad's college speakers (purchased with a student loan--of course)

I'm in similar situation to Dr. &y, and I'm planning on buying a phono preamp (my previous Sony a/v receiver had a phono stage although it wasn't very good). I didn't realize that feed back and low frequency rumble could/would be an issue. Do I NEED a phono preamp with a rumble filter, or can I adjust things on the 1910 to compensate? Also, you speak of filters--is this a feature on the receiver or do I need to purchase something else? How do you protect against feed back? I know this isn't a vinyl gear thread, but since it was brought up here... I have a Rega P3 turntable, and I was leaning towards the Cambridge Audio 540P, which doesn't have a rumble filter. If I step it up to the 640P, which does have a rumble filter, will I (or rather, my gear) be ok?

P.S. Thanks to all the experts on here as well as the average Joe's like me that asked lots of questions. It made my setup of the 1910 yesterday smooth as butter. I've been lurking here a while and I'm glad I wasn't left to try and figure things out on my own.

Well to make it short and to the point , It just a matter of how loud you play your music and the placement of the hardware. New AVR gear tends to BOOST the low end and subs can put out alot of low end energy. The turntable can catch this energy and feed it back into the audio system and it becomes a vicious cycle till something gives , the weak link is mostly the speakers . The low freq cut-offs or and fitlers limit this low end energy, its mostly to keep your costly hardware safe and to stop or help stop possible damage. Plus the music will sound clear and cleaner since the amp don't need to work as hard. You may want to put in-line fuses on the speakers if they don't have them. Rise the crossover settings will lessen the risk. I may be over doing it , But I like to rock loud , and have paid for it many times.
But with cds , my speakers now live alot longer !!!

Took the time to get my speaks mounted and wires in wall and hidden. I'm no drywall guy, but I think I did a pretty good job. The 1910 sounds great, and no problems with any of my equipment working with it. (Samsung tv, directv dvr, samsung bd, toshiba hd dvd). For the guy earlier who was commenting on how much he had to turn up the receiver, my optimal listening level for movies is about -9 or -10. I love the way it sounds, and rocks my house. have the audio setting to come on at -15.5, wich is a quiet environment setting, but when the ac kicks on, I start to turn things up. Dolby HD and DTS HD sound incredible. All I have left to do is mount my outdoor speakers on the deck, run the wires, and my zone 2 will be comeplete.

I have one question, for some reason, running auto setup, it wants to set my rear surrounds twice as far back as they actually are. I went in manually and changed the settings. This setup is in livingroom which has vaulted ceilings, and the rears are mounted on the ceiling, about 5 feet back from the main listening position, and in the air about 14 feet. it was setting them at 27 feet. Im just wondering if I should have left them at that distance, because thats where the auto setting put them, or changed them like I did? Any thoughts?

you should ask in the Audyssey thread to confirm, but with the speakers mounted that high, and with huge vaulted ceiling, my bet is that the Audyssey mic is likely hearing the reflected sound overwhelming the direct sound and is getting tricked by the "acoustic" delay.

can you mount the surrounds any lower, or possibly even aim them down slightly? are the direct-radiating or bipolar/dipolar?

you should ask in the Audyssey thread what Chris (founder of Audyssey) recommends.

The speakers are Bose, and they are running through the sub, so when the test tone comes through the mic hears the speaker in the ceiling, but also the low end comming from the front of the room, so I figured it was getting confused. They are those double cubes, so I have 1 cube facing the listening position, and the other cube bouncing off the wall. The speakers are aimed down. I wasn't overly worried about it, just thought I would get some opinions from around here. When I get home tonight, I will probably do things the old way, and break out my radio shack sound meter. My bonus room has a 7.1 system, and my first Denon 3803, I had to setup that way. I'm sure my living room is an acoustic mess.

I just ended up buying AVR1910 and trying to get it set up right. I have been following instructions of audessey setup but for some reason bass is not adjusting right. Its too low. I have hkts 18 speaker system.

When I ran the audessey setup with volume of the subwoofer at 12:00 position audessey came back with -10db for sub and other speakers were in the range of -0.1 - 2.0db levels. Audessey calculated all the distances of the speakers and woofer right on. I have to boost the level up of sub manually to around 0.0db to be at acceptable.

When I run the audessey with volume on the sub at 9:00 position audessey comes back with -6.0db level for subwoofer. I have to boost it up to around 5.0db to be acceptable. Again distances of all speakers were correctly identified during the audessey set up.

I have read lot of forums and no one is complaining about low bass, eveyone seems to be complaining about too much bass.

I have changed the position of the subwoofer from one end of TV stand to other to see if it corrects the problem but no luck. Any ideas on how to get it setup automatically.

Although I can adjust the level of the sub manually I wanted to get it done automatically so I have it configured for the optimum sound from each speaker including the sub. An ideas??

Can you adjust the phase of the sub? Sometimes that can have a huge impact. I haven't gotten my 790 yet so I haven't gone through the Audessy setup, but I remember that phase made a huge difference in the way my sub sounded.

The speakers are Bose, and they are , so when the test tone comes through the mic hears the speaker in the ceiling, but also the low end comming from the front of the room, so I figured it was getting confused. They are those double cubes, so I have 1 cube facing the listening position, and the other cube bouncing off the wall. The speakers are aimed down. I wasn't overly worried about it, just thought I would get some opinions from around here. When I get home tonight, I will probably do things the old way, and break out my radio shack sound meter. My bonus room has a 7.1 system, and my first Denon 3803, I had to setup that way. I'm sure my living room is an acoustic mess.

Just put down the SPL meter and no one gets hurt!

I think the likely culprit is "running through the sub" is introducing delay, which is what Audyssey translates into distance.

Suggestion: replace the surrounds. Maybe you could just cut 'em lose from the sub and let the Denon power them (and let Audyssey filter them) directly. I think someone in the 1909 thread did something like that.

...bass is not adjusting right. Its too low. I have hkts 18 speaker system...When I run the audessey with volume on the sub at 9:00 position audessey comes back with -6.0db level for subwoofer. I have to boost it up to around 5.0db to be acceptable. Again distances of all speakers were correctly identified during the audessey set up.

Welcome, dp. Let's try to sort out a few "reference vs preference" things. What is your preference/expectation of the bass (boom box, heavy, rattlin the table?)? How big is your room? Have you listened with DynEQ engaged? Did you follow the Audyssey setup Guide?

dpslhr let me ask you, you say the bass setting is too low. Have you tried listening to a few different sources? When I set mine up the 1st time, just to test things out (before speakers were wall mounted and so on), and it set my sub at -12, to which I promply bumped up. Once I put everything in their home, it set the sub at -6. I decided to run a few things through it, and see how it sounded. Got out some of my favorite HD and BD disks, and sure enough my sub level was perfect. If you havent already, give it a run and see how it works for you.

SoundofMind, I understand Bose isnt a fan favorite on here, but I like the way they sound in this setup. I have a dedicated 7.1 front projector system in my bonus room, so this was just because I wanted surround in the living room. After running the auto setup, I love the way everything sounds, for now, I measured out the rears, and changed their settings. Watched 3 bd's through it this weekend, and think sounds great. Im no audiophile, for sure, and I'm probably half def anyways, Ive DJ'd at a strip club 5 days a week, for the past 12 years, and bounced in many assorted night clubs. Needless to say, I am in a loud environment all the time.

I have phase button on the back of sub and it is at normal right now, its either "reverse" or "normal". I will give it a try. I wouldn't think using reverse would make a difference since it would make the sub out of phase to speakers. Any other thoughts would be welcomed.

SoundofMind, I understand Bose isnt a fan favorite on here, but I like the way they sound in this setup...After running the auto setup, I love the way everything sounds, for now, I measured out the rears, and changed their settings...Ive DJ'd at a strip club 5 days a week, for the past 12 years...

troi, it's all good then. I was just offering one explanation for your findings and suggesting ways around it. Usually it is not recommended to change the speaker distance BTW, as it is an acoustic measurement. In your case it probably reflects the delay Bose processing introduces, as I said, and you would want to restore that distance in the Denon so that all the signals arrive at your ears properly timed. But if it sounds great, that's all that matters.

troi, it's all good then. I was just offering one explanation for your findings and suggesting ways around it. Usually it is not recommended to change the speaker distance BTW, as it is an acoustic measurement. In your case it probably reflects the delay Bose processing introduces, as I said, and you would want to restore that distance in the Denon so that all the signals arrive at your ears properly timed. But if it sounds great, that's all that matters.

I appreciate the advice, and insite. I reread my post after posting it, and it sounds a bit catty, and I didnt mean that in the least bit, so Im sorry if it came across that way. I wqill give some of those options a try. For now, I am keeping the bose system, not sure I can run them without going through the sub. The reason I changed the distance manually, I figured it would change the delay settings to reflect. Maybe the auto set up settings work correct, for what the computer is reading in my room.