Thanks for all the updates. If I may be nitpicky: on looking at your photos, some of the shiny applied hour markers don't seem to be set correctly in that they do not point directly towards the middle. (if you drew an imaginary line from the tip of the hour maker, it should intersect at the middle of the dial right?) If you look at the dial, it clearly has very nice radial lines for every hour that extend from the center out to the perimeter, but the actual hour makers themselves seem to be a little off. Some of the markers also appear offset between the perimeter 'ticks" (there are 10 between each hour marker I believe), with some inconsistency spaced between these ticks and hour markers..

This could very well be an optical illusion, or the way the picture was taken, but just thought you should know.

Kind regards

R

Hi R,

Thanks for the heads-up! I just went to examine the prototype with a 10x loupe and can confirm that all the hour markers are perfectly positioned, so it seems it was an optical illusion.

While examining the dial I was once again struck by the layered beauty of the guilloche, and the depth and clarity of the printed characters at bottom. It is a quality of printing I have seen only on Lange, Patek and Parmigiani, of all the brands I have examined.

Even though I've seen the picture previously, I just wanted to say again how much I'm looking forward to these, Ben. For the rest of TWAT, I ordered a cream dial (blue logo & hands) for my wife and a red dial (gold balance cocks) for myself. Ben is certainly not embarking on an easy journey, but through my interactions with him, I am very confident in him and his products succeeding.

And as it relates to the whole brand whoring thing, I've always been someone who likes brands and aesthetics that fly under the radar, almost like a little secret for myself to enjoy. These watches from Ben will certainly scratch that particular itch of mine, plus the added bonus of a story that I quite enjoy.

Well, this topic sure has become very interesting. I have gone back and forth on my opinions since this discussion first started, and it is Mimo's post that has finally allowed me to gather my thoughts. So, I will just piggy back a little bit on his post.

I will be completely honest. When I first read B's post, I was hesitant. B speaks about the rice-paper guilloche, the hand-blued logo, etc., and when I read those features, I was rather dismissive. It came across as fluff. I wanted more substance. It was only when I read Mimo's post that I realized that this is the same kind of information that I eat up from other brands. When Grand Seiko speaks of their Zaratsu Katana Blade polishing style, I am riveted. When AL&S talk of their gold chatons, I eat that stuff up. When Patek speaks of blackened gold indices, or an officer's caseback than took three years to engineer, I am utterly captivated. So why was I so dismissive with B's "press release?"

To quote our dear friend Reevolving, perhaps it is a little bit of... cognitive dissonance? Sorry, just had to go there. But seriously, when I hear about some of the features on the Celadon watches, I think to myself that there is no way that a watch can offer that much in the way of features for around $1,000. I think to myself that something has to give. But Mimo's post made me think to myself that maybe we are really drinking the koolaide. Maybe a watch can have gold chatons and be under $20,000. I really have such a miniscule understanding of what these things actually cost.

I remember seeing this "watch meme" on WUS that made me chuckle a little bit:

But doesn't it really speak to a very important issue? Let us not forget that the luxury watch industry is effectively a watch-selling oligopoly. They set the prices, and their output is dictated by the market / economists, not by their watch makers. I will respond with more later, but I wanted to lay out what I think may be on the minds of many.

Hi Newcomer, let me respond to your post.

Why do you say that the rice-paper guilloche, the hand-blued logo, etc come across as fluff ? Do you know that the hand-bluing took several months of back and forth between the manufactory and I to perfect? The design of the logo itself took 9 months of elimination and contemplation. I would imagine that would count as substance. A hand-blued logo, the only such one in the world, cannot be impeached on either quality or novelty surely?

You should read the process of achieving the hand-engraved gold balance cocks on the earlier WUS thread I posted to see the story behind it. All of that is from my personal experience, not related from a PR copy.

If you think that a watch costing what mine costs (which is actually more than a 1000) cannot possibly offer the features and quality does, why do you think so? Maybe it shows that many of the big brands charge far too much for what they do.

Gold chatons are very hard to assemble. The chatons must fit exactly in the holes when drilled, and the chatons themselves must be polished and bevelled. My movement has 4 of these chatons, so 11 heat-blued screws and 3 gold chatons are used. Even the small screw below the swan neck regulator is heat-blued.

A three-quarter plate movement is also more laborious to produce. Because the gong train must be positioned below on the base plate and then the three-quarter plate must be fitted perfectly so each pivot rests in the upper bearing, a three quarter plate is harder to assemble than a bridge movement.

However even though these features are expensive, obviously skilled labour costs less in China than in Germany. This does not however mean it is inferior. There are 4 old masters working in Beijing with tremendous experience and skill.

The manufactory is also located in a little mountain village outside Beijing (known as "the garden of Beijing"), and the workers are all from the village, so the labour costs are lower than in the capital. If you see my phototour on Purists, you can somewhat imagine the cool laidback mountainside atmosphere of the region.

As to your very humorous image in the post, it is nonetheless very true. I have toured several of the Swiss watch factories, including many top-tier ones, as well as two in China, and the processes are very much similar. In fact the machines are almost the same as well, and even the scenery. Changping village, where my watches are produced, is surrounded by snowcapped mountains and has fresh air and serenity, much like the Chaux-de-Fonds or Plan-les-Ouates.

Nothing wrong with CNC machines by the way, even Dufour uses them. What matters is the hand finishing that takes place after.

You are on to something, but I'm not a fan of the new one on the wrist (nor do I like the hand or McQueen reference, just not for me, YMMV). I happen to prefer the white dial because I have enough black faced sport watches (but I really like both a lot). And, as I said above, part of the appeal for me is it's a bit less recognizable as far as rolex goes, so that may play well with you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dino944

Its definitely a cool watch. Its very Rolex, but its a bit of the anti-Rolex in terms of recognition. I've had gotten an occasional comment about my LV Sub, or old GMT, but not a single comment about the Ex2. You get the oyster bracelet, oyster case, even the same basic dial as a Sub or GMT. However, something about the brushed finish bezel causes it to fly under the radar. I've had ref 16570 black dial red hand for 12 years and its been great. It was my daily wearer for 10 years. No problems. Its looks great with casual clothes and the brushed bezel gives it a slightly dressier look than a Sub or GMT, at leas when they were all 40mm (new orange hand Ex2s are 42mm and maybe a bit sportier with the big orange hand). While my first choice with a suit would be something dressier, the Ex2 will do just fine with a suit if need be (I never travel with more than 1 watch, so what ever I wear while traveling has to do it all).

I do like the new/current Ex2 with orange hand, I'm just not sure its as versatile at least not for me. Either version of the Ex2 is a great watch. Good luck with whatever you decide.Warning: Spoiler!(Click to show)

Just a few quick pix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith T

.....Dino: nice pix of your Exp II...and once again your cufflink game is top-notch.

I've already expressed my appreciation watch lust for the 42mm / orange hand / black dial.... and of course I need another sports watch like a hole in the head. Just can't stop thinking about that one.

.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnguy001

This is a fantastic watch. My brother just got it several months ago and seeing it up close made me appreciate Rolex as a brand in a whole new light. The bracelet in particular is divine. One of the few Rolexes I see myself owning anytime soon, but I like the white dial version personally
.....

Many thanks for your views and thoughts - much appreciated! Especially since it came in the middle of the hot GS debate (am I the only one who (also) has to think of Goldman when someone writes "GS"?).

So what happens when one of these modified watches is sent to Rolex for service?

Rolex will refuse to service any watch that isn't 100% authentic, that is in the states at least. It's my understanding that things may vary a bit from country to country. However no worries, they'll make whatever necessary adjustments to return the watch to 100% original. Of course this owner will have to pay for all necessary adjustments.

However most owners of watches such as these understand this, and there are number of other alternative places to get a Rolex serviced.

Rolex will refuse to service any watch that isn't 100% authentic, that is in the states at least. It's my understanding that things may vary a bit from country to country. However no worries, they'll make whatever necessary adjustments to return the watch to 100% original. Of course this owner will have to pay for all necessary adjustments.

However most owners of watches such as these understand this, and there are number of other alternative places to get a Rolex serviced.