The proprietors of Lao Wang Noodle House were part of the Communist-era migration from China to Taiwan, bringing mainland dishes like soup dumplings and beef noodle soup to the island and helping integrate those foods into Taiwanese cuisine. Twenty-five years ago, Chung-Ming and Tse-Ming Wang made another migration, to Colorado, bringing their food with them. Today, at Lao Wang Noodle House, a small strip-mall spot on South Federal, they dish up authentic Chinese comfort food, like those dumplings and noodles, to regulars who've become their adopted family. The Wangs are liberal with the five-spice, generous with the portions, and adamant that you make yourself at home -- which could mean cleaning up after yourself and finding them in the kitchen when you want your check.

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