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Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80 the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8" what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks

PS sorry about the grammar

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I would not wait personally. The longer it runs the more damage can be done, and if these particles go through the pump/motor, then it can get expensive and require facing or replacement of VERY expensive parts. Hopefully the strainer is ok and the broken needles are still in the axle housing.

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Thanks for the quick response. I kinda figured that would be the answer. Well looks like i need to find out more info. The model #90-1136 if anyone knows of any manuals or info to help the adventure please post

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Sorry no pics yet, definitely in need of a new 1 new hub. The side with bad bearings has good hub the other side has good bearings, but the hub key way is all buggered up. Someone has opened up the transaxle before. Where is a good place to find a hub.

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To find the axle bearings you need to look at the parts list for the tractor model you have. The transaxle has it's own page and there will be two different part numbers listed. One for the 1" diameter axles and one for 1-1/8" diameter axles. These are not the best parts lists as they fail to identify what model uses what bearings. We may have original parts lists that will be more easily understood.

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I just went thru all this on my C160 about 2 months ago. Let me know what you need to know. Looks like you need 2 new axels. That much play in the bearing means the axel is also chewed up. Those axels are also induction hardened, but only in the bearing area. Finding good axles takes awhile. I pulled my transaxle apart. I got 2 great hubs from A-Z parts. The local machine shop wanted $175 each to fix my keyways. Newer axles have a bigger woodruff key to stop this from happening. I found 2 used axles.

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After i do the swap, i will open up the old rear end and see what i need. I bought a parts hydro so hopefully i can make one good one. Searcher60 Thanks for the advice I'm sure i will have questions once i get started. You wouldn't happen to have any pics of the inside of the rear?

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Good luck! I gotta say, I think you mite should just bite the bullet and find an axle and hub. Both my axles and hubs were tore all to hell. Cost me about $300 in used parts to get it straight. The correct used axles in good condition are hard to find. The machine shop wants just as much as new axles cost to fix those.

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Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate.

I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal.

The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500.

My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information.

Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zp8ty4oxctzvt8a/Wheel Horse Hydro Foot Pedal Instructions V3.pdf?dl=0

I am selling these kits for $250 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.

If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

Thanks!

Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below.