I searched and searched to try to find if anyone had done this before but couldn't find a good thread showing what wires to use. So i grabbed my trusty test light and did it myself.

I installed some LED DRL today and also wired them with my halos. So now my halos are always on with my DRL and when it gets dark and my headlights come on automatically the DRL stay on! It was super easy and the parts only cost me $2.99.

All you need is about 2 feet of wire and 4 quick splices, I bought a 10 pack for $2.99.

Unplug the harness going to each headlight and DRL. splice the power wires together on the left halo/DRL and the right halo/DRL. Plug the harnesses back in. DONE!!!!!

Not sure if the wire colors and position are the same for the 2010 but on my car i tapped the brown with white stripe wire on my passenger halo to the blue wire on my passenger DRL. On the driver side i connected the purple wire from the halo to the light blue wire on the DRL.

Is it possible to unplug those DRL's at the bulb and the Halos still come on like that? That is what I really want to do. Is it too much of a pain for you to test that?

hello, if i understand correctly, you are talking about removing the power wire from the drl's and leaving the jumper wire from the drl (power wire) to the halo's? if this is what you are asking, the halo's would be on all the time and the drl's would never come on. is this what you are asking?

the next problem is that you when you connect the 2 power wires together and there are no diodes added, you will get back feed up the wire back to the source. this is not good. someone might correct me if they know more. this has been discussed with many of the harnesses that have been made here on the forum.

If I am following the way he did the mod right, the right thing would have been to add two diodes per side, but that would be a bit more complicated install. You would then need to cut the power wire in each harness just before the jumper and splice in the diode, that way neither power source can short out the output, and everything works the way he wants.

That being said, are both of them coming straight from a BCM Module Output, or do they go through a relay? If either goes through a relay, there will be no harm in leaving out the diode on that leg.

I am also wondering what LED DRL's he installed, and where they came from. We seem to have very similar tastes.

No need, like Ph4r said the power comes from a relay so the computer is not affected by this mod. A diode would only be needed if you wired this BEFORE the relay. I know a thing our two about wiring, I basically rewired my entire 98 SS daily driven race car.

No need, like Ph4r said the power comes from a relay so the computer is not affected by this mod. A diode would only be needed if you wired this BEFORE the relay. I know a thing our two about wiring, I basically rewired my entire 98 SS daily driven race car.

I checked again and this does indeed per the parking lights.

With 15+ years of 12 volt in my background, I too know just a little about wiring.

So the halos are powered by a relay??? I doubt it. I'm just asking since a LED doesn't need a relay and you're allowing 12+ to possibly flow back into the BCM.

With 15+ years of 12 volt in my background, I too know just a little about wiring.

So the halos are powered by a relay??? I doubt it. I'm just asking since a LED doesn't need a relay and you're allowing 12+ to possibly flow back into the BCM.

And are you also aware of PWM (the output of the DRL's)?

And please don't use a test light and Scotch Locks on a 40k+ car..

I searched for a while and I think you might be right about no parking light relay. Might throw 4 diodes on there just to be safe, and keep the exact same function I have now. But so far it has been working great.

FYI: The DRL uses a pulse width modulation circuit and I bet your halos pulse a little huh? And the way you've wired it you'll be sending the PWM "pulse" back into the BCM; NO BUENO. A simple 50v 5A diode will work for ya' ($2.50 or so at Radio Shack)

Another thing you could do is add a relay. DRL+ to 85, ground 86, 12+ to 30 and 87 to the halo.

FYI: The DRL uses a pulse width modulation circuit and I bet your halos pulse a little huh? And the way you've wired it you'll be sending the PWM "pulse" back into the BCM; NO BUENO. A simple 50v 5A diode will work for ya' ($2.50 or so at Radio Shack)

Another thing you could do is add a relay. DRL+ to 85, ground 86, 12+ to 30 and 87 to the halo.