Il Mulino

1042 Northern Blvd. Roslyn Estates, NY 516-621-1870

An exterior view of Il Mulino. (Credit: Newsday / Audrey C. Tiernan)

With sister outposts in Tokyo, Aspen, Miami and other places where an upscale eatery is a necessity of life, local Roslyn also scores as one of the neighborhoods also deemed worthy for the Il Mulino gastronomic experience. With a menu born of the rustic Abruzzo region of Italy, the menu is short-yet-splendorous from the beginning, evident in antipasti plates like sliced prosciutto with melon and...

With sister outposts in Tokyo, Aspen, Miami and other places where an upscale eatery is a necessity of life, local Roslyn also scores as one of the neighborhoods also deemed worthy for the Il Mulino gastronomic experience. With a menu born of the rustic Abruzzo region of Italy, the menu is short-yet-splendorous from the beginning, evident in antipasti plates like sliced prosciutto with melon and berries, thinly-sliced beef carpaccio and shrimp oreganata. Salad and soup are also available to open dinner, a selection of entrees that builds on bases of pasta, shrimp, chicken, veal and beef with regal presentation. The desserts are equally extravagant, with sweets like tiramisu and warm custard and fruit immersion like oranges marinated in Grand Mariner liqueur or pears poached in white wine and delivered with whipped cream--both sided by servings of seasonal berries.

The din is high, the lights are low and neither the crowd nor the waiters can get enough of themselves. Nonetheless, this Long Island branch of a New York City mainstay remains a hot table. The gratis antipasto alone (Parmesan, sausage, sauteed zucchini and garlic bread) is enough to make a meal. Other highlights include the house-made pastas (such as porcini ravioli in truffle-flecked Champagne cream sauce), risotti and delicate Dover sole. Finish with fresh berries and zabaglione. You'll pay through the nose.