Just about any bottle of López de Heredia is enough to make most wine geeks swoon. But, when we put five in a room armed with glasses and this bottle of Viña Tondonia Reserva, 1998, the atmosphere quickly became ‘fan girly’.

This sea air, sherry-like style of López de Heredia offers so much well-balanced and vibrant flavour and aroma. It’s almost hard to believe it’s 16; lay it down and enjoy until 2020 without difficulty.