Build Guide

WAARRRNNINNNGGG!!!!!!!!!!: THE CURRENT BATCHES OF THE CRAZYBEE BOARDS FROM HAPPYMODEL ARE TOTAL RUBBISH. THE FAILURE RATE EXCEEDS 60% ADVISED TO WAIT AND LET THINGS BLOW OVER BEFORE CONSIDERING USING SUCH ITEMS. The Beta boards have not been too reliable for me but now may be better albeit still a poor option. I don’t even know what to do about all this yet. China 🙁

Build tips:The goal of this craft is to keep it super light. Yes you can load up 1106 motors and big honking quad blades with an 800mah 3S battery but you’re probably going to want a different frame and that quad is going to be louder, extremely fast and bordering unsafe. The point of this is lightweight, low noise, common low cost components, common 450-600mah whoop batteries, common whoop cameras, simple props, simple frame, AWESOME performance. The unique development has been the use of brushless whoop AIO boards that simplify the entire build.

Even though this design was intended to be a swap over from quads like the Mobula 7 or Trashcan, unfortunately no whoops out there make for a good swap experience. Yes they will work fine but optimal performance will require a custom build…as usual with everything in this hobby. If you want it good, you gotta do it yourself. :-/

General recommendations:– 1103 7,000 – 8,500kv recommended for 2S 450-1000mah– 0804 10,000-13,000kv recommended for 1S 450-600mah– Target less than 75g with 2S 450mah– Target less than 90g with 2S 1000mah (~6-8min flight times)– Target less than 50g with 1S 450mah (most public safe option)– Maximum recommended AUW load for 65mm props is ~90g but less is better.

Construct the frame:The frame comes with different sized M2 screws and standoffs. These are 10.9 hardness steel M2 screws but they are still really little. Be careful when tightening things. I’ve snapped the head off the screw trying to torque it around. The different sized screws are yours to decide what fits your build best. If you’re using a trashcan board and Vtx, you’ll want the longer screws because your stack will be taller. If the screws are too long for you, once installed, you can just snip the ends with a pair of large wire cutters if you like.

The following is for typical whoop style boards:Select four appropriate screws for your build. Put them in the frame holes, thread the M2 locknuts over the entire screw length down to the bottom. Be careful not to over tighten these locknuts as you will need to spin the screw a little later to get the camera mount on.

The FC/AIO board will mount with the connectors and USB pointing up. This is opposite a whoop. Your FC board came with some rubber grommets. Maybe some grommets that are taller on one side. Put the grommets in the half circle mounting holes of the FC with the long side up as well. Now slip the whole FC/grommet complex over the screws that you’ve threaded onto the frame.

Screw on your motors:If you’re using Mobula/Trashcan or any whoop motor, your wires will be too short to reach the connector on the FC from the motor mounting pad. That is what the micro racewire PCB’s are for. They are JUST BARELY LONG ENOUGH to fit your Mobula or Trashcan motors. BE CAREFUL when cutting, stripping and tinning your wires. If you do more than just cut the wires in half, you will not have enough wire to reach the connector even with the micro racewire.

Note the camera angle change with the screw threading. If you want more angle, just bend the whole camera mount back a little more.

Once you have your FC on and motors on and attached, you can just take the Bee Brain camera mount and thread it onto the appropriate screws. No nut or anything needed from here. I like to use one longer screw in the front because if I want more camera angle, I just thread the front of the camera mount high on the front screw. If I want a more shallow mount, I twist the screw down to pull the camera nose down.

Setting up your FC: The following is written as if you have a fresh Crazybee F4 board. The Crazybee F3 works great but is a bit finicky with adjustments in Betaflight. When you try to remap motors it doesn’t always respond and sometimes freezes without saving the change….I’ll make a how-to on this if people really need it.

Crazybee F4

First off we’ll need to correct board orientation.Go into the ‘configuration’ menu and set the ‘roll degrees’ to 180 under the ‘Board and Sensor Alignment’ box.Before hitting the ‘save and reboot’ button, scroll down and check that the following are on:– Air mode– OSD– Anti gravity– Dynamic filter– You can also make sure prop rotatin is inverted up at the top left.

After hitting ‘save and reboot’, make sure the orientation is correct on the home screen. If not, you’ll need to go back into the configuratin menu and guess what rotations you need to apply in the ‘Board and Sensor Alignment’ box to get it correct. If it is correct, under the ‘system configuration’ box of the ‘configuration’ menu, make sure it’s on 8k gyro rate and 8k loop rate (4k gyro rate for F3 processors). Now just turn OFF the Accelerometer before hitting the ‘save and reboot button’ again.

Now let’s go to the ‘Motor’ menu and check our motor orientation and motor rotations. In order to use this frame, you had to mount this board ‘upside down’. This means that your motor orientation is going to be incorrect and you can confirm that with the motor test. Please make sure props are OFF.

Remapping the motor output is very easy and I’ll included a video below in time, but if you’re using a fresh Crazybee board or one off a Mobula/Trashcan, you can go to the ‘CLI’ menu and probably just copy/paste the text below into the command line. Hit enter and it’ll reboot. If this doesn’t work, you’ll need to remap things manually. If things get all out of whack, you can always just reset all the settings on the main ‘Setup’ page.

Check the motor rotations too. If they are not spinning the correct way as designated by the motor map in the upper left, you’ll need to resolder the motor wires to flip the rotation. Just swap any of the two wires coming from each motor. (Not swap motors. Each motor has three wires. Swap any two of those wires….if you need help with this, you’ll probably need to ask someone for the rest too so I’m just gonna move on…)

Now just setup your controller Rx, OSD and rates as you normally would and you’re ready to go.

Here are my PID’s and rates that I use. Note that if you’re not using the same setup as me, these numbers won’t be accurate for you, however the tuning window is pretty huge so you can use this as a starting point.

AMAXinno 1103 7500kv 2S or 1104/1105 8700kv 2S, 65-75g AUW with 2S, Throttle max endpoint set to 95These are the best setups I’ve built so far.

Battery strap:So there are many ways to do this. I’m sure people will start printing various things but the most efficient solution that is the most secure for its weight is likely just a rubber band. I know, low tech…sometimes it’s better. It’s hard to explain the way I’ve strapped it up in the picture below, but this is a common method used by many micro builders and I like it. Works well and is secure.

If you’re going to be using an XT30 connector, this is pretty much required because the connector is strong enough not to let go of the battery. So if your battery goes flying, it’s not unlikely for the power lines to tug off the FC board and go flying with the battery.

Do up the rubber band like this. I have no idea how to explain it. Just play with it till you get it…

Pro tips:

Throttle Endpoint management:

Antenna Mod:

Unfortunately these darn whoop AIO boards have fake Rx’s on board so the Rx performance totally sucks. This is a way you can at least make it more consistent and get some more range. Find a thin wire covered in silicone or a thin copper wire with an enamel coating. A 1/4 wavelength of 2.4GHz is 31.23mm and that’s how long the antenna it comes with should be. Cut your new wire to 62.46mm or as close to it as you can get. Replace the stock antenna with this new wire. Make sure the wire has no kinks in it while you’re flying. This mod makes the range just barely tolerable…

Note the long yellow wire. That’s my antenna.

XT30 connector or JST/Mini Deans…:Okay this one is frikin incredible and doesn’t even make sense! The stupid PH2 harness connector for running 2S is rubbish. By simply swapping to an actual 2S battery and using an XT30 connector, you will get a LOT more punch, a LOT more speed, and a LOT more flight time. That’s the part where it doesn’t make any sense! How can it give you more power AND more flight time!? Anyway, here’s the 2S battery you want. I’ve tried a couple others, this is definitely the best one: https://goo.gl/5F1mcb

One big thing to note. The XT30 connector is quite robust and kinda overkill for such a small quad. The connector does NOT pull loose easily enough if your battery goes flying in a crash. Instead, it’s very likely that the power lines will go flying off your FC as well. You will need to secure your power lines somehow or make absolutely certain your battery is very securely attached and will not go flying. Alternately, you can go with a JST connector but you may need to custom make your battery wires.

Hotwire Mod:So we now know that the XT30 or just something better than the stock connectors are all but required. The next level up is to replace all the connectors and power lines. Swap out the main battery wires on the XT30 for 20awg wire. Then use pliers or tweezers with good grip to pull off the motor connectors plastic housing on the board. Then unsolder all the connector pins (this is a bit of a PITA). Directly solder your motor wires to the connector pads.

Note directly soldered motor lines. Make sure to use good solder and this isn’t a difficult task at all. Try the solder brand Kester. It’s awesome.

The XT30 gives you about 30-40% more performance overall. Swapping out the wires will give you another ~10-20% of added performance. I know these numbers sound nuts but give it a go yourself and you’ll see. The stock wires and connectors are fine but for optimal performance, it’ll take a bit more work.

XT30 connector with 20awg wire and dental floss used to tie down the wire and relieve stress from the solder pads in the event of a crash.

Power floss mod:Have you ever tried to rip floss? It’s incredibly strong. Use some to tie your new 20awg power lead to the rear standoff on the frame. Go ahead and show off your boyscout knot skills here. You’ll need to because floss is typically pretty slippery stuff and has a tendency to unravel knots. Especially the ‘Glide’ brand that’s made of PTFE.

Fun fact: There are surgical sutures made of PTFE. The look, feel, handle and knot just like the plasticy Glide brand floss. They’re both essentially identical. This particular suture is nice because debris don’t get caught in the thread and it’s generally bacterial colony resistant. It’s also a PITA to tie and keep shut and if you’re not careful, easy to tear right through various skin and mucosa tissue that you’re trying to suture together. There are many many different types of sutures that surgeons use for various tasks. Oh yeah, the PTFE suture stuff is several hundred times the price of just regular Glide floss….part of the reason why healthcare costs so much…

Hey KababFPV, Thank you for the info! Fantastic work. I just canceled a trash and to instead build a toothpick 😉 Do you use a XT30 on your crazybee F4? Would you do so? Also any throttle range to be adjusted? I remember you stating that motors are ok up to 80% and then no further power. Thanks!

And should I wait to get some 1103’s cause your going to stock some?I’m getting another crazybee f3 pro unless you have a better suggestion? Just trying to get everything together so when you’re frames come in I will have everything thank you.

I’d say it’s not a bad idea to wait. I’m still testing a couple things to find the best setup. One thing I can be totally solid on is the Amax 1103 motors. They’re awesome and an excellent value. The frame also won’t be changing.

For anyone interested, there’s a pretty good rcgroups thread on super light builds, both for LOS and FPV builds, primarily built around the tweaky/zappy frames (which fit 3” props, the lightest frame versions weighing around 4g).

A question about the amax motors you will stock…will they already have the white connector (what the hell is it called?) connected to the motor wires that plugs into the motor ports (what the hell are they called?) on the crazybee f4 board? If not, where would I get them and is there a tutorial anywhere on how to put in on? Newbie question, I know…

That’s a kinda complex word for it but yes, it pulls up vertically. I’m gonna make a little video on doing it when I get a chance. The connectors plastic slips right off the pins and then you can desolder them.

Seemingly the dodgy Frsky receiver issue with seemed to be fixed as of BF3.4.1 and now the D16 via SPI is stable and more reliable. Is this true or should i anticipate installing an external RX to get 100-150M of range?

Hey Jason, I’ve actually got the same motors coming for my build too lol. I’ve just sat down and opened blender to start designing my frame. Kabab big thanks for putting together the power train \ prop combo looks like a blast. I’m planning on printing some frames in PLA+ to test this out, if all goes well I’ll get some cut. I’ll also work on a top mount battery design and see what I can up with.

I noticed on your design you already have 20×20 mounting holes. Why not just mount the split broad on the bottom of the frame utilizing those holes (under the main plate). Then just have a light small 1mm plate that the batt can rest on protecting the split board? I was also thinking about making this thing for HD DVR, but man now we’re adding weight………… I’ve already designed my frame (honestly really just a clone off of yours) I just really want this baby so I can get more stick time and become a much better pilot in a safe way. I’ve got some killer spider hex designs I’ve put a lot of time in to. Getting v2’s cut soon. Designs are for 3 inch, 110x, and 140x, as well as a 4 and 5 inch. I flew some last summer and love them, but man with a hex 6s make so much more sense. So my new v2 5inch will def be on 6s.

I’d love to get the 3 and 4inch versions on 6s too. Battery’s are no issue as I could just run 2x 3s in series. But smaller 110x’s and 140x’s in lower kv’s are the issue right now I think. I know you can adjust throttle curve etc but man I’d love to see smaller lower kv motors made. If you’d like to see what I’m designing and have any ideas about how I might get decent small light weight power trains in 6s on the 3/4 inch ones please email me at woobie4@hotmail.com. Wish I could add a pic here on your page. Love you stuff btw……amazing!

The best system is crossfire. That’s pretty well known by now. The dilemma is the enormous antenna. This is a similar issue with any other Rx however the same issue happens with any Rx but the crossfire antenna is much bigger.

Hello hey what’s the safest way to take those stock moter pins & connectors off?I practiced on an old f3 that came out of a mobula7.I pry it with a small screw driver but always seem to break one.when I unsoldet the pins it’s difficult to get them out with one hand pulling.one more thing when are you gonna put some more video’s on this subject on youtube??

Hey Bob; I just got all my parts in and I am about to build the the toothpick tomorrow; I got the nano unify vtx and I was curious if there is a way to wire up smart audio for adjusting the vtx power via the OSD?

The only issue people have been having is the 5v. There have been many reports of the 5v inverter burning on the board. Otherwise, the ESC’s are totally fine with all this insanity we throw at them. Happymodel is working on the 5v issue too.

I don’t know if it’s because I changed my stock mobula batt connector for the xt30 no problems but a couple days later it stops getting power through the lipo and only powers on with the usb this is the second one I bought and both did the same thing I’m not going to use the f3’s anymore until I have some sort of answer as to what it is (voltage regulator )?and how to fix it if possible.It’s only a week old .I have found no info or anyone eles that has had the same problem with this board can anyone help me is this a fried board or could I replace a component ??

I wonder what kind of range Crossfire would give if you reduced the antenna length 50% or to a specific fraction of the wavelength? Would it work in the same fashion as doubling the radio RX antenna on whoop boards? 50% of original length surely isn’t optimal, but perhaps could be manageable and aesthetically-pleasing on a Toothpick build or even a whoop.

I dont know if I got lucky or what. But my 65mm build has no issues. Running a Crazybee F4 pro. I have an XT30 on 18g wire. Running 200mw happymodel Vtx, beeper/led and HMDVR-S off the 5v reg. That’s close to 1a. I have had no problem with the 5v reg. If that’s not enough my range is over 1000ft. You may not believe me but here’s video proof.https://youtu.be/TPZVhSha_8M I would love to put all this on a Toothpick. My order # is 905.

Is there any encouragement out here for a Broken Man make damn sure you wire a 5 volt regulator in right the first time if you have to put a 5 volt regulator on your fc I didn’t put a xt30 or any modifications at all and this is the third one to burn up all of them 5 volt regulator is burnout but I crashed this morning and one of the wires came loose off the regulator and fried my last good board I am almost done with this Hobby I seen that magical smoke that everyone keeps talking about thousands of dollars later and I don’t have anything to show nothing flies everything needs Parts everything’s out of stock I feel like happymodel should owe me 3 f3’s getting closer and closer to making that YouTube video has me taking a sledgehammer to all of the stuff and be done with it if it doesn’t get any better that’s exactly what I’m doing I wouldn’t be so pissed if somebody anybody had one in stock besides banggood I will not break down in order from them I know you said how reliable these boards are but I completely disagree I have not had the same experience it seems that they are junk to me I just bought this brand new less than a week ago and it’s already fried and I can’t get them to take it back so I’m giving it one last chance and if I burn another one up I am done with these boards there has got to be a better option out there besides happymodel junk so tired of being broke from this hobby can anyone make a quality all-in-one flight controller for these whoops it doesn’t seem like it the technology is there but the quality of these things are a joke I might just take a break for a couple months and get away from this burden if I can’t fly my stress away I will smash it away wtf happymodel get your shit together got 12 motors 3 cameras and like 14 frames it’s starting to look like a mobula7 junkyard up in here why can’t they put circuit protection in these like they did the mobula7 HD one more chance happymodel one freakin more chance here lately the disappointment has outweighed the joy that flying gives me I can’t afford to buy a mobula7 every stinkin week maybe I will try a capacitor next time so im going to medicate myself and forget about fpv For a while and try to calm down.dam hobbies going to give me a stroke!

@kabab, would it be possible for us to choose wether we get the AMAXinno motors vs the new ones you are testing? I know I would rather get 4 slightly better motors that might have better longevity than 5 cheaper ones. I am conserned that lower price will come with a quality or consistancy difference. I also like how the AMAXinno motors look a lot.

They’re not cheaper. They just cost less. They actually have stronger magnets and better bearings than the Amax motor. This is a world in which costs fluctuate depending on how many middle men are in the way. I’ve simply found someone closer to the source of the motors and customized it with them. Better product, lower price, savings passed to the consumer. Amax was stupid and started selling their motors to anyone and anyone that wanted to buy them based on my findings and the popularity it generated. I did not appreciate that and happened to stumble onto a better source. So I dropped Amax and they sold the entire stock I had placed an order for to Banggood. Stupid on their part. They lost a pretty huge potential customer…I’m wondering if these China companies will ever learn that loyalty is actually valuable.

KababFPV – TweetFPV recently did a YouTube video in which he said all of his receiver issues went away when he set the receiver on the Crazybee F4 Pro to SPI D8 mode instead of D16 in Betaflight and bound accordingly. Have you tried such and would you recommend using D8 mode? Also, are you willing to discuss specs on the new motors you’re sourcing in place of the AMAX motors?

I tried it on the crazybee F3 and it didn’t help. I’ll try it on the F4 when I get home and see if it changes anything. I’m not going to be discussing any details of the new motor at all even after shipping. The copiers will need to figure it out on their own. I’m no longer giving away information for free to all the companies that copy everything I do. I’m sorry it’s had to become like this.

I’ve been looking around for a charger, and the charger that you recommended (Ultra Power UP-S4AC) seems to have overcharging issues… Turnigy 12v 2-3S Basic Balance Charger -> this charger from HobbyKing seems like a good option since it is very cheap. So I’ve been thinking of buying a multiple of this charger and hooking it upto a single power supply and using something like this

Would you recommend waiting for the new crazybee f4 pro v2 boards to be released, or buying the f4 pro v1 board, or the original f3 pro board (given the 5v reg issues which are affecting some people on the f4), for future 2s builds?

It’s going to be a 4 hole motor and I’ve gone with the M2 9mm 4 hole mount because that’s just fine. I don’t need thirty different mounting standards. In the future I won’t even support any other mount platform.

Hey Bob, I got the lil duece frame since yours sold out, it weights 3g’s less than your frame, would u still recommend the setup u have on yours, I’m seeing a lot of 16×16 stacks pop up and I’m intrigued if it’s worth it going with 16×16 stack or stick with the Crazybee F4. Thanks for bringing toothpicks to the spotlight in our community, love your content!

thank you. I dunno if the Duece is updated to take the whoop board yet. He told me he was working on that but if it is, I still recommend the crazybee boards. They likely have the same incidence rate as any other stack and are just so simple and easy to use. Built in soft mounting and no issues as long as it works.

That is so sad because I started looking for parts for your build. I just ordered 4- 1103 Amaxinno 7500KV this morning and Paypay already went thru. So no 3- 4 hole mount? Last thing I saw on your web page was 3 and 4 hole for the new frame? I asked for a refund but not counting on it. I ordered from Amaxinno direct. I wish I’d never ordered from them after reading what they did to you.

Don’t worry about it at all. The Amax motors are still great. I’m also still working with them. I’m just not going to stock their motors. They lost a 4,000 motor order because of the BS they did so they’re definitely hurting. And that was just going to be the first batch. They likely sold them all to Banggood because nobody else would swing that size of an order. The Amax motor is more efficient than the motors we’ve redesigned however the ones we have coming are definitely faster and feel more meaty at the expense of efficiency. The ones coming will be needed to carry the increased heft of the Toothpick HD with the Split cam….we’re working on a couple setups to make things as good as we can make them. If you have an order with me, just lemme know what the order number is and if you want to change anything. No matter what I’ll take care of everyone. I’m here for you and everyone else. Nobody will ever need to worry about any order because I’m an actual human rather than a faceless company. That being said, I’ve already had a couple of extremely rude customers which I will not tolerate and have canceled, refunded and asked them never to go to my site again. It’s sad people still think they can say and do whatever they want online.

Your next frame is 3 and 4 hole? Should I get the Crazybee f4 Pro without receiver ? Add my own. Just got my TinyHawk today after watching ur review. My 4 inch drone is too big and noisy for flying in the yard.

K so I bought two f4 pro’s one only fly s on d8 and it fly s like a turd to boot the other I have already burned a 5v reg fixed it and no problems so far.The one that only fly s in d8 pitches back on me and won’t hold a line the other one still has violent washout problems any suggestions I’m open to all & any???

My throttle idle speed is set pretty low around 3.5 start flying and it’s fine but if I get height in the air the throttle won’t let me descend until I start pumping the throttle a bit does anyone know what this means?

Tim – I had the same issue with my TinyHawk when I flashed it to Betaflight 4.0 yesterday. I dropped the digital idle to 3.0 but it still just floated too long after cutting throttle. So perhaps try Betaflight 3.5 if you’e using 4.0 now. However, BF4.0 is working fine on my larger 2.5-3″ micro quads.

It’s gonna be at piroflipRC in about 2wks. I’m gonna try to push it to be less than that however. We’ve got all the frames and just waiting on the motors which should come early next week. The props will still take about 2 weeks and I think sergio wants to wait for them but I’m gonna urge him not to.

Awesome update! The roll-out has been a bit “long in the tooth! However, I’m sure it’s because Kabab is trying to optimize everything and of course his hands are tied when it comes to the timeliness of the Chinese suppliers.

Right on, thanks for everything you do for the hobby. I can’t wait to try your frame. Also, will your motors be coming from Sergio as well or did you go direct to manufacturer this time? May I ask what size bearing you decided to go with? Thanks Again, hope your having a good weekend!

Try if there are vibrations with all the motors or just one or two. I had terrible vibretions and I just put a better drilled out propeller on and it’s acceptable now. I’m really looking forward to propellers with correct sized holes…

Kabab, Today something very sad happened to my crazybee f4 board. The VCC+ pad ripped off while swapping batteries 😤. Would you happen to know of a fix? Or another pad I can use? I’m sad. Thank you for everything

So you recommend I buy my f4 crazy bee now from pyrodrone I’m in Los Angeles so when the toothpick and the motors come out I can jump on them and build it asap also what do you think of the 16×16 stacks how will you announce the moment the toothpick and its parts goes on sale bob?

What’s the consensus on the Crazybee F4’s 5V regulator? Can it reliably handle the recommended Mobula7/UR65 25mW AIO cam/vtx and people are burning them trying to run 200mW, or are they failing even at loads of 300mA or less?

First build noob question re 3S: could you not continue to use the 1103 motors, CrazyBee F4 V2 board along with try-blade props to get benefits of 3S without really paying any weight penalty? I’m obviously not versed in the arts of balancing all the parts of this equation but please help me to understand. If you tell me to just suck it up and accept that Bob has found the sweet spot here, I’ll accept that. Honest question.

Screw the iflight stack were are the motors I was told they would be in stock a two weeks ago can i just send this all back to you and get my money back please if not that’s cool nut I feel like it’s becoming impossible to get either one flying it’s been to long if a wait I would rather send them back to you plus I’m never buying another crazybee board again I swear I’m not so the frames are useless to me at this point

Had the same issue. Best option is to remove the shunt resistor on the other side and solder the wire to this pad. You obviously won’t have current readings anymore but at least the board is not wasted. (Soldering to the leg of the IC that measures the voltage drop over the shunt did not work, the trace is too thin and burns Out)

I was setting up my CrazyBeeF4 Pro in Betaflight according to how instructed above, but every time I try to change the PID loop speed to 8k it auto resets to 2k after rebooting. I can’t figure out why it is doing this. (I set it up on Betaflight 3.5.7 so that I could use Akk smart audio.)

I figured it out like 30sec after i posted this. So basically if you don’t already have a version of D shot set as your ESC/Motor protocol, you are limited to 4-2k depending on what ESC/Motor protocol you have it set up as.

(Changing my configuration to Dshot 600 allowed me to set the PID loop speed to 8k)

yeah, same, need to debug. Feels like the props/motors have mega vibrations. I’m on 4.0 too, need to review PIDs and filter settings. “dyn_lpf_gyro_max_hz, 700-800hz for 5500-7500kv motors.” also: “In addition to increasing lpf_gyro_max for the higher revving micros, you may need to reduce P gains to somewhere in the 30-40 range if you develop oscillations or full throttle “shake.”” Might need to crank up the TPA too, not sure yet, only did maiden this afternoon but it was super disappointing. On the flip side I have a 0802 version and that flies great on BF4.0…

Well I got it fly for two batteries, then the crazybee board died. The issue is unlike any problem I have seen so far. The voltage reg is fine but the leds won’t light up. Also the fc won’t connect to betaflight. Lastly a single motor softly vibrates when I plug it in.

dammit. Got the same issue with my CrazyBee F3 version. Managed to bring it back to life by re-soldering the bat pads, think the heat may have re-soldered something else as they were on fine but after couple of tries it sprung back to life. Noticed each time its happened to me it was after being hooked up via USB to the BetaFlight configurator for a while. Had hoped I could move up to F4 and get rid of this problem at the same time 🙁

What drill bit are you using? I had your problem with a normal 1.45 drill bit, then got a 1.45 PCB board drill bit(They have a different tap and bulbous end for a chuck.) 12 turns holding the bit with a pair of pliers has the bit popping out the top of the KingKongs and good to go. Also people advise using a vice to install the props fully seated and flush with the motor bell. All the best and happy flying.

Hello. I’m wondering if I could add stable mode. Since the build info says to turn OFF the accelerometer. I sometimes fly inside my house on rainy days and it’s hard to tame this beast inside.. lol. I do have the space and also teaching the wife LOS