Monday, August 20, 2012

The Pemi-Loop

The “Pemi-Loop” is a hiking circuit in the Pemigewasset
Wilderness of New Hampshire’s White Mountains that climbs over 9000 vertical feet
in 31.5 miles.Backpacker Magazine
called it the second hardest dayhike in America, making apt references to
“knee-hammering rocks” and “long stretches of abusively rocky trail.” A few
years ago I tried to do it in a day, but failed.On August 7-8 of this year (2012), I did it
in a more civilized manner by spending a night at the conveniently located Galehead
Hut.

Waking at 3AM in
southern Massachusetts, I drove 3.5 hours to the Lincoln Woods Visitor Center
and started hiking by 7:30AM.It was a
little steamy in the morning, so the 3000-foot ascent of Mt. Flume via the Osseo
Trail was somewhat taxing.From that
craggy perch, I followed the spectacular Franconia Ridge Trail for five miles to
the summit of Mt. Lafayette (5260 feet), which is the highest point in the
wilderness. The stretch from Little Haystack to Lafayette, which is entirely
above tree-line, was hot and crowded.

Crossing the Pemigewasset River at the start of the loop.

The Osseo Trail

Mt. Liberty from just below the summit of Mt. Flume.

View north from the summit of Mt. Flume. I need to climb over Lincoln and Lafayette on the left and then Garfield in the middle. Many miles before I sleep ...

Franconia Notch

Mt. Lincoln from Little Haystack

Looking back down the Franconia Ridge Trail toward Little Haystack, Liberty, and Flume.

Mt. Washington from the summit of Mt. Lafayette.

Leaving the summit of Lafayette at 2:15PM, I needed to make
good time to reach the hut for dinner, which is served promptly at 6PM.That 6.6 mile stretch from Lafayette to Galehead
Hut was brutal.It took four hours, and
I was really pushing it.I did take a quick
break on the summit of Mt. Garfield, however, to enjoy the fantastic view of the
Pemigewasset Wilderness.

Looking north from the summit of Mt. Lafayette.

Descending the Garfield Ridge Trail.

A nice spot in the forest, somewhere between Lafayette and Garfield.

The Pemigewasset Wilderness from the summit of Mt. Garfield.

I reached the hut a little after 6PM, having hiked around 17
miles and climbed nearly 7000 vertical feet.No wonder I was beat!Being the
last one to check in to bunk room #4, I was relegated to the least desirable
bunk – the one on the fourth level (about 12 feet up).

Dinner was good, as was the company which I was suddenly
thrown in with.Sitting down to eat in
close quarters with a bunch of strangers immediately after a grueling 11-hour
hike was an interesting and not entirely pleasant experience, but at least I
made it to dinner.After dinner, one of
the hut employees gave a talk primarily about logging in the Pemigewasset
Wilderness, and then a few of us lingered outside and watched what I think was
the international space station pass overhead.

Galehead Hut

Sunset from Galehead Hut

Bedtime was unfortunately miserable.After climbing the ladder up to the fourth
bunk in the dark, I realized there was no ventilation up there.Plus, the side of the bed was only an inch
higher than the mattress, which meant that I could conceivably roll over and
plummet twelve feet to the hardwood floor below.Add to that a persistent, whining mosquito,
some loud snoring from bunkmates, and a need to visit the rather grubby bathroom
at midnight and you’ve got a recipe for a bad night’s rest.Miraculously, I finally got some fitful sleep
after about three desperate hours of staring wide-eyed in the dark.

At 6:30AM, a very nice violin solo by one of the hut
employees rousted everyone from their bunks for a breakfast of oatmeal,
pancakes, and bacon.The bacon resulted
in much oohing and aahing from hungry, calorie-depleted hikers.By 8AM I was climbing the steep trail (1000
vertical feet in .8 miles) to South Twin Mtn. and becoming increasingly aware with
each step of the oatmeal, pancakes, and bacon filling my belly.

From South Twin, I headed south over Mt. Bond to Bondcliff, which
might be my favorite summit in the White Mountains.Nine miles from the nearest trailhead,
Bondcliff is one of the remotest peaks in the Whites.In fact, I had the summit to myself for the
duration of my leisurely 30-minute break there.Then, with a heavy heart, I said goodbye for the time being to these
mountains I love so much – and to the memories they conjure up – and began the
long plod down to the car.

Crossing the footbridge over Franconia Brook, I allowed
myself to wander down to water’s edge for an invigorating foot soak.By 8:15PM, I was back in southern
Massachusetts.

A hazy view from the summit of South Twin.

A typical stretch of trail in the White Mountains of NH.

The rocky trail leading toward the Bonds.

That's Mt. Lafayette in the center, viewed from near the summit of Mt. Guyot.

Thanks Chris! That stretch between Lafayette and Galehead Hut was rough, because I had already gained over 5000 vertical feet AND I was really rushing to make dinner -- brutal but consequently unforgettable.

Nice page, I am doing it this weekend, sleeping one night at Garfield shelter, the Galehead is all booked! Hope I survive, is there any spot for swimming since it's august, and some waterfalls view?Thank you!

Thanks for the recent comments, folks, but sorry I didn't see them until now! There are numerous campsites dotting the loop, but no guarantee they'll be vacant. Regarding swimming spots and waterfalls, you might find some near the start/finish of the loop in the flat miles near the visitor center.

Memories indeed. Hiked the Pemi loop in 1973, a 3 day backpack but no overnight in an AMC hut. More fun with the mice over your face, middle of night, in a "lean-to." The "wooden steps" and the crowds did not exist. If memory serves me, we may have seen two other people in the three days. I think we did it in September (my White Mt guide with notes is packed up.) Well, you would have to be insane or wanting to go insane to do it during black fly season. Favorite long day hike: Pitamakan-Dawson Pass in Glacier NP.