I've been gone for a few weeks but still plugging along on this car. This whoa nelly costs a lot of money so it takes a little time to recover from large purchases. Here's the most recent from last week and another $600

I purchased a Saginaw Type II power steering pump. I've been reading up on these lately and apparently they have a considerable reduction in parasitic losses in mid-high RPM ranges compared to the canister style (old) pump.

Pump

Summit Correct-Align bracket

6 rib pulley

Summit steel braided power steering lines

Summit remote reservoir

Also, here is some pictures of my spindles and brakes

CPP C-5 style spindles

Baer 14" Drilled/slotted discs + 6 piston calipers mounted

Compared to stock 11" discs

I still have a hefty wish list, but I do not want to compromise, even if it takes me another 2 years to complete. So far I've been fortunate to have overtime available at work, which funds the purchases, but sometimes it's hard to balance working enough to afford it and coming home enough to enjoy it. I realy wanted to start taking it out to some Autocross events this year but the sad reality is I may not. The only way that will happen is if I run the current engine/trans. The current engine has weak compression, if I can revive it cheap with a hone and some fresh rings/pistons. If not, I will just wait until I can get the next engine/trans in place (still undecided on what engine configuration I'm going to go with). I'll either go with the LS376/525 or build my dream engine, the 406 in the corner of my garage with twin turbos, EFI, computer controlled ignition, and E85 sensing.

Really nice and you will be very happy you are doing it right the first time around. I have had 3 engines and 4 transmission in my car so I know the feeling. It adds up really fast for the cost but when driving it its priceless!!!!!!!!!

Ok, so I went to the "toy-store" today, Summit Racing in Sparks, Nevada and spent a load of cash. I'll have some un-boxed photo's soon, the last episode of Gold-Rush is coming on and I don't want to miss it.

I like the idea of the extra clamping force but I became concerned after reading the numerous problems with the weights "recentering" themselves.

Seems that alot (like dozens) of people have experienced that after some heat cycles and dirt buildup the weights dont slide as they should. The weights and wire remain "off center" or dont fully return. People then have had issues with squealing noise at idle or an annoying vibration throughout the rpm range. Quite a few good pics on the net of what the weights look like and how off center they become. I've also read that centerforce had been contacted and they have know knowledge of any issues. Owners who have had these issues still love the clutch and have remedied the squeal and vibration by snipping the wire and removing the weights. I've also read a procedure that allows removal of the wire and weights without removing the trans. But that seemed vehicle specific. The clutch is highly rated, but some have just removed the wire and weights prior to installation which is what I'm considering. I was just asking because I found this info just a couple months ago when I was researching what clutch I'll be using in my chevelle.

Pretty sure the google search I did was "centerforce weight problem" if you want to take a look.

I'm jealous. like alot of the cars on here she is gorgeous and it seems like you have a solid idea in what direction your going with the car, i cant seem to decide. but i love the look, the paint scheme suits it beautifully.

where did you get your cowl induction hood? is it fiberglass or did you stay with metal?

Thanks wunderlich_33! The hood is fiberglass, bolt on style. I don't recall the manufacturer name atm. The glass hood will be replaced with carbon fiber, along with the front fenders and likely the heavy neoprene front bumper skin. Maybe not so street after that, but that's fine. I'm going for a crusty pro touring look, I plan to keep the matte olive green paint but there will be much more going into the car, chassis, interior. Time money and more time. I don't have buddies who'll hang out and give me a hand, so progress is at a one man pace.

yeah see ive been debating between trying to achieve a pro touring look and an old school tilted muscle look. I like the lower look ( not low rider ), but at the same time as I read, you seem to be really fighting with getting that turning radius in. but I still love seeing an A$$ end up in the air to, just has a meanness to it.

see timei have, that's no issue. money and tools is my problem. and like you I have very very few car buddies, so its slow going. but joining this site sure helps, atleast for discussion and diagnosis and getting some damn good ideas.

I'll be saving some money by molding the parts myself, but still, raw materials cost is still on the high side. I might even make some "extras" to sell and recoup some of the expense. Of course, those things are on the plan for next year. (id like to have everything done by the 3 year mark, Dec. 16')

wunderlich_33 wrote:..........you seem to be really fighting with getting that turning radius in.

I don't understand? turning radius hasn't changed, but the geometry of the front suspension has changed so I'll have better camber curve through the suspension cycle and more range for caster adjustments, and big fat sway bars to keep the body roll down and the tires digging in.

wunderlich_33 wrote:see timei have, that's no issue. money and tools is my problem. and like you I have very very few car buddies, so its slow going. but joining this site sure helps, atleast for discussion and diagnosis and getting some damn good ideas.

lol, I think we all have money problems, just a matter of how many other things are you willing to sacrifice. I can't normally afford half the things I've bought for this build, hoiwever I've sacrificed much time doing overtime and odd jobs so I could. This car will probably be the last car I build and I have a deep desire to make it exactly how I've dreamed. Life is short, I just want to have as much fun as I can while I'm alive.[/quote][/quote]

By fighting with the turning radius I mean turning and hitting the fender with the tire. I don't know much about suspensions but from what I picture the higher in the wheel well you are the less youll be able to turn the wheel before the tire touches because your closer to the diameter of the tire. so id imagine that would bring down your turning radius.

ok, I gotcha. I have plans to remedy tire rub by slightly bulging the fenders out, it will be the absolute minimum I can get to clear tire at full lock. I definatly don't want some crazy fender flares or anytHong overkill on the bodywork. Of course the rears will be massaged also to match the front.

switchbiker wrote:ok, I gotcha. I have plans to remedy tire rub by slightly bulging the fenders out, it will be the absolute minimum I can get to clear tire at full lock. I definatly don't want some crazy fender flares or anytHong overkill on the bodywork. Of course the rears will be massaged also to match the front.

Think it will clear if the tires were shorter? Im planning on doing something similar with mine but with a 1.5" shorter tire (285/40/18)

they might be 1.5" shorter diameter but the your only losing .75" off the radius, not really that much. I'd guess you will have some interference at full lock full suspension compression, although you might be able to clear most of it by cutting or rolling your fender flanges. If you cut them be aware of sharp edges that could cut the ture I'd it hits.