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Topic Review (Newest First)

09-20-2016 09:31 AM

TucsonJay

I did exactly this. Had a few tiny pinholes... tapped them in... metal prepped... sanded... filled with JB weld for the strength and water-tight seal.... then sanded and covered with filler.

I only did it because of the holes, and don't expect to again.

So far no problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenseth17

I haven't used jb weld, but have used epoxy based adhesives before for filling small holes where didn't want to weld, and used bodyfiller over that. You have to watch though, many recommend epoxy priming first before using any bodyfiller over adhesive, but believe that is mostly urethane based stuff.
I would not consider using jb weld as a body filler, although something very similar is often done on urethane bumper repairs, using a adhesive that has some flexability for the majority of the repair, and regular filler for final finishing work.

If I was stuck on using epoxy as a filler, well then I'd probably use an epoxy fairing compound, like I've used in the when working for some boat builders (basically bodyfiller in marine terms). Its a 2 part filler as a base and convertor must be mixed together.
Haven't really seen any bodyshops using it at all. although I am sure somewhere some place might, but fairly commonly used in the marine industry.http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info.php/products_id/38 I like fiberglass filler when a bit more fill or a bit more water tight filler is wanted then comfortable using plastic filler, but would actually prefer using the epoxy filler over all metal junk that I was forced to use a whole lot of at a past job.

09-19-2016 10:08 PM

bborek

Helicopter use~everywhere....

i was considering using it as a small area (less than 1 inch) instead of leading because it is near a window in an older mercedes.....I used to fly helicopters for a living and I can tell you for a fact JB Weld held all our gearboxes together....and every other place they needed it...so as far as heat and vibrations....it doesn't get anymore demanding than in flight....what say you?

04-13-2013 12:38 AM

rodgrdodger

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwater

After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.

Good point well made sir! I agree too, JB Weld is a strong bonding and sealing product. I have used it for pin holes and small pitted ares that after properly cleaning the spots lasted forever.

04-12-2013 11:59 PM

rodgrdodger

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin316

Nothing to do with paint and repairs but there is a place for that "type" of filler.

I used a two part product called Epo Strong for filler on my frame and transmission housing before powder coating. Regular filler isn't conductive so it can't be used. I have thought about using it for filler in places like the firewall.

Thats a good point that its not conductive for a powdercote procedure.

04-12-2013 10:31 PM

Kevin316

Nothing to do with paint and repairs but there is a place for that "type" of filler.

I used a two part product called Epo Strong for filler on my frame and transmission housing before powder coating. Regular filler isn't conductive so it can't be used. I have thought about using it for filler in places like the firewall.

04-12-2013 08:42 AM

MARTINSR

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwater

Yes,glass is out. 78 Camaro Z28 w/t-tops. When I bought this car it had been sitting under a larger oak tree for about 4 years. When it would rain all that water would continue to fall on the car from the tree. I did have to patch in some steel in the channel about 10 in. long. Had pitting on both sides of where water worked it way between the channel an sealant.

One thing you shouldn't do is put ANY filler down on the pinch weld where the urethane bed is applied to bond the glass in. That metal should be sand blasted, epoxy primed and NOT painted. You want the window to be held in by the urethane and epoxy primer not bc/cc or bondo or jb weld.

And believe me, EVERY one of those sixties and seventies GM cars has had rust in the window channels front and rear. Heck, back 20 years ago I did a LOT of them and they were a lot newer than they are now, they were STILL rusted in those channels every time. It was a horrible design with the channels getting filled up with water and no where to go. On a 64 Riv once I made drains out of brake tubing in the corners and ran a rubber hose out the bottom of the quarter panel, worked pretty neat.

Brian

04-12-2013 07:45 AM

dogwater

Yes,glass is out. 78 Camaro Z28 w/t-tops. When I bought this car it had been sitting under a larger oak tree for about 4 years. When it would rain all that water would continue to fall on the car from the tree. I did have to patch in some steel in the channel about 10 in. long. Had pitting on both sides of where water worked it way between the channel an sealant.

04-10-2013 09:24 AM

MARTINSR

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwater

After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.

We all have ideas that can be of value, but you have realize that there are many people on this forum who have done this stuff as a living for decades and every one of them would say do not do what you are doing. You may think it's the cats meow but JB weld is NOT the product to use there. It may "work" with the way you have described if the metal was cleaned properly before it's applied but it is MUCH harder to work with and MUCH more expensive than products made for such a purpose.

In your description it sounds like you left the glass in there, please tell me you pulled the glass out to do those repairs. And what is the make model and year of the car you are working on. Many cars for years thru the sixties, seventies and eighties had a urethane bedded glass with a chrome moulding over the top. That chrome moulding did more than allow some water to "seep" in. The moulding does NOTHING to keep water out and it is in fact designed for the water to go right in there with no fight at all.

Brian

04-10-2013 08:04 AM

dogwater

After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.

04-10-2013 07:35 AM

deadbodyman

Not to long ago I had a life long bodyman explain to me that me "self etching" finishing putty means you dont have to sand the paint before filling a ding....
There was no telling him otherwise....

04-09-2013 09:40 PM

rodgrdodger

There is no replacement for common sense!

04-09-2013 08:37 PM

37hemidodge

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

What it takes is simply trying to improve, if one puts in a little effort it is amazing how much one can improve. When I started messing around on the net, typing and English were as far out of my world as you could get. It just wasn't what I had been interested in, it just wasn't me. I spent my time perfecting my autobody and paint skills on the job and my spare time went to perfecting my guitar and singing.

I got on the net and just fumbled. What I did to work on it was to write my posts in an email first and check spelling and punctuation and ask my wife (who is a English master) and make sure I did it right as to not look like I was as dumb as I am. So I worked and worked on it forcing myself to type correctly with all my fingers and forcing myself to spell correctly (well most of the time) and in a short time I had you guys all fooled into thinking I wasn't a hack.

Brian

Lol that's the funniest thing ever.Even with spell check I still ask the wife

04-09-2013 07:38 PM

rodgrdodger

Thats interesting too.I like JB weld it has many practical uses and bonds tightly to bare steel. I agree with old timer, I would like to bondo do that!

04-09-2013 07:13 PM

Old Fool

Mid 70's we used JB Weld to stuff crankcases on 2 stroke engines to increase the primary compression ratio
Never was aware of any failures with the procedure.

04-09-2013 02:33 PM

rodgrdodger

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69

school of hard hacks?

As long as you KILL the rust first after sanding and wire wheeling to clean out pitted area's ,your fine. After I clean out pitted area's I then proceed to KILL rust using a red scotch brite pad and VINEGAR WATER MIX 3 parts water to 1 part WHITE VINEGAR scuffing hard into the pitted area for a minute. Let sit for 10 minutes come back and wipe residue off with clean fresh water and paper towel's. the rust will turn BLACK.You KILLED it and it will not grow back. Then use what ever you want to fill over with. This will protect and PRESERVE the car and paint job for another 20 years.

I agree,replacing panels is no fun and In my OPINION, takes away the car's original production BUILD. Alot of people replace all quarter's and door's and fender's then they say its an original survivor but we know it has been destroyed. I prefeer to PRESERVE the whole car if possible!
That mean's treating rusted area's (KILL IT) The car feels right you know.

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