How do I use the online ordering system?

Ordering is simple:

a) Choose the item you wish to purchase from our site pages and click the 'Add to Basket' button. The
contents of your shopping basket will be displayed in the window.

b) Click the 'Continue Shopping' button to select other items for purchase, or remove unwanted items from the shopping cart by clicking in the box
to the left of the unwanted item and then clicking the 'Remove Selected Items' button at the top of the page.

c) Once you have all the items you wish to purchase in the shopping cart, select the appropriate shipping rate;
UK - Standard Delivery (2nd Class or Equivalent)
UK - Expedited Delivery (1st Class or Equivalent)
UK - Royal Mail Signed For (1st Class)
UK - Royal Mail Special Delivery
International - (International Tracked & Signed Airmail)
For full details see Shipping Charges

e) Click the 'Calculate Totals' button and the 'Pay by Debit/Credit Card' button will appear at the bottom of the shopping cart, click this button to use
our on-line ordering facility which will allow you to make payment by credit card securely via WorldPay. When using the online ordering system all payment details
are entered directly into the WorldPay site (part of the Royal Bank of Scotland) and are not made available to us. The WorldPay online payment system is very secure.

Telephone orders will only be taken when a customer is experiencing technical problems in using the website. Please note that if we take your order by telephone we
will place the order through the website using the same method as you would i.e. your payment will be made via the internet. The internet payment system we use means that your
credit card details are never passed through our website but go directly to WorldPay or Paypal and are completely secure.

Alternatively, you can use the printable order form. Print off the order form, fill in the items
you require and post to us with the correct remittance using either a cheque or postal order.

Which watch battery do I need?

The interesting world of batteries!

We thought that you may find it useful for us to give you an insight into the interesting world of
watch batteries. (We know it's not that interesting, but it may help you order the correct battery!).

Battery Chemistry:

With respect to watch batteries there are 3 main types of chemistry, Silver Oxide, Alkaline or Lithium.
The Lithium button cells will be 3 Volt cells (apart from the Renata 751 which is a 2V lithium battery) and the Silver Oxide and
Alkaline button cells will be 1.5 Volt.
Therefore, the voltage of your application will dictate whether you will need a Lithium battery or not. The Lithium cells
tend to be the larger button cell batteries and their references tend to be prefixed with either CR or BR.
For example, a CR2032 is a Lithium battery.

Silver Oxide or Alkaline

Since Silver Oxide and Alkaline watch batteries give the same voltage (1.5 Volts) then which battery do you choose?
Well, firstly Silver Oxide watch batteries tend to be more expensive than an Alkaline cell of the same size. So can you
just use the Alkaline watch battery of the correct size? Well, this depends on your application and if the Alkaline version is
available. There is a much wider choice of Silver Oxide watch battery sizes. In fact Rayovac make only two Alkaline button
cell sizes but approximately 30 different Silver Oxide watch battery sizes. Where Silver Oxide cells score over their Alkaline
counterpart is in their ability to maintain a more stable voltage. This characteristic makes them better for clocks and watches
and absolutlely essential for metering equipment (like light meters in cameras for example) where a stable voltage is
required. An Alkaline cell though is good for high current devices where a stable voltage is not required, for example,
in electronic toys and calculators. Many of those children's noisy books use LR44s (Alkaline), but can run
equally as well using the Silver Oxide equivalent (Rayovac 357). Many electronic toys use LR44s or LR41s and
there is no problem using a Silver Oxide watch battery of the equivalent size. Rayovac do not make a LR41 so we have no problem
in suggesting to owners of the Thunderbird Soundtech toys (which use 3 x LR41) that they can use the Silver Oxide
equivalent (Rayovac 392) instead. Since some of our customers have been charged £4.00 for each LR41 by High Street
jewellers, they have no problem in paying us for the more expensive Silver Oxide watch battery at a mere £1.99 each!
So to summarise, if your application calls for a stable voltage under load (watches, clocks, metering equipment etc.)
use a Silver Oxide watch battery. If not, and you can get the Alkaline equivalent then use that. And remember, you can
always use a Silver Oxide watch battery to replace an Alkaline watch battery.

Battery Sizes:

Now this is interesting (honest). The Lithium button cell battery sizes are easy to determine from their reference numbers.
The first two digits refer to the diameter of the battery in mm and the second two digits give the height or thickness
of the battery in tenths of mm. So, for example, a CR2032 is a Lithium button cell which is 20mm in diameter and 3.2mm thick.
A CR2430 is a Lithium button cell which is 24mm in diameter and 3.0mm thick. There, told you that this was interesting!
Now having had this lesson, you will begin to see that other watch batteries also have a reference number
which give a similar clue to their size. Take for example a Vinnic L1154. Now you would be excused for thinking
that this was 11mm in diameter and 5.4mm thick. Close. But in this case the first two digits refer to the range
of the diameter and the second two again, as for the Lithium button cells, refers to the thickness in tenths of mms.
The diameter in this case is in the 11mm range. A quick check in our reference table will show that all watch battery diameters in the 11mm
range are 11.6 mm in diameter. Therefore, a L1154 is an Alkaline button cell 11.6mm in diameter and 5.4mm thick.
Other manufacturers use a similar reference numbering system for their watch batteries, and as a general rule
wherever you see a three or four digit reference number for a watch battery it is likely to follow the rule described above.
For example, a Sony SR626SW is a Silver oxide watch battery which has a diameter in the 6mm range and is 2.6mm thick.
All watch batteries in the 6mm range have a diameter of 6.8mm. So a SR626SW is 6.8mm in diameter and 2.6mm thick giving
a Rayovac equivalent battery, from the
reference table, as a 377.
Other manufacturers, like Rayovac, number their batteries without giving a clue as to the size of the watch battery,
so to refer from these to other manufacturers' batteries you really need to use a
cross reference table
like ours.

Battery Prefixes:

What do the letters at the beginning of the reference number mean?
So what about these prefixes? This is just down to experience I suppose
so here's a short list. Manufacturers who use SR to denote a Silver Oxide watch battery will tend to use
LR to denote Alkaline. Those which use SG to denote Silver Oxide will tend to use AG to denote Alkaline.

Battery Prefixes:

BR/CR = Lithium

L = Alkaline

SR = Silver Oxide

LR = Alkaline

SG = Silver Oxide

AG = Alkaline

Battery Suffixes:

The letters at the end of the reference number are different, one is W the other SW. Which one do you choose?
In the Silver Oxide range of batteries you will often see a different suffix to the same battery reference. For example
you can get a SR1130W and a SR1130SW. The ¨SW¨ refers to use in low drain devices whereas the ¨W¨
refers to high drain devices. So what's the difference? Well you would tend to only use a ¨SW¨ battery
in a watch without a backlight. Your standard analogue quartz watch would be fine with a low drain watch battery, whereas
a watch which used a backlight would really need a high drain ¨W¨ watch battery. Having said that, you could
quite happily run a low drain watch using a high drain watch battery. ¨SW¨ batteries will tend to have a slightly
longer life when used in low drain devices than their ¨W¨ equivalent. If in doubt use the high drain ¨W¨
type since there is likely to be little or no difference in price.

Battery Capacity and Shelf Life:

Just a few words on battery capacity. This tends to be given by the manufacturers in mAh (milli Amp hours)
and this figure gives us an idea how much current can be supplied by the battery and for how long. For example, a battery
which had a capacity given as 40mAh will be able to supply 40 milliamps for an hour or 20 milliamps for two hours. We can
provide this information if you like, but you don't need to know this if you are replacing a watch battery in household
gizmos. Really it's for the electronic buffs who need to know which battery to use in a newly designed circuit.
The shelf life of watch batteries is determined by storage temperature and their chemistry. Typically, at 21 degrees
Celcius a Silver Oxide battery will lose less than 10% a year, an Alkaline button cell about the same and Lithium button
cells less than 2% a year. This loss decreases as the storage temperature decreases.

Cordless Phone Batteries

How do I identify the correct battery for my cordless phone?

Many of the newer cordless phones are using standard sized rechargeable batteries such as AAA batteries. These do not have leads
which have to be connected to a pin in the phone handset, but are just pushed into the phone handset housing. Some phones, however
do have leads and a connector, which needs pushing onto pins in the handset. There are a range of different connectors; JST-EHR2,
JST-PHR2, JST-PHR3, mini-molex to name a few. It is critical to have a compatible connector as well as the correct sized battery
with the correct voltage. The easiest way to ensure that you choose the correct battery is to use our
Cordless Phone Battery Finder page to identify your battery
using the phone manufacturer and model. Alternatively you may be able to use the code on the existing battery to find the correct
replacement.

Why has my new battery been supplied with two separate connectors instead of one?

Some of the more popular cordless phone batteries are now supplied with a 'Universal Connector'. This means that each of the leads
ends in its own connector, rather than both leads going into one connector. Although a little more fiddly to connect on to the pins,
it allows the same battery to be used in many more phones, since the main difference between a number of connectors was the distance
between the pins which the connector is pushed on to.
When fitting this type of battery it is important to note which way round the
black and red wires are connected in the phone before removing the old battery and ensuring that the new connectors are put in the
same way, so that the black wire replaces the original black wire and the red wire replaces the original red wire. If this is not done
correctly the battery will not charge correctly and it could damage the phone if the handset is left on the base to charge with the
wires connected the wrong way round.

Why is my new battery marked NiMH instead of NiCd?

Many older cordless phone batteries used the old rechargeable technology of NiCd or Nickel Cadmium. However recent
European Legislation (2008) banned the manufacture of Nickel Cadmium batteries (except for some reserved applications). As a result
of this, all new cordless phone batteries are now Nickel Metal Hydride.
Nickel Metal Hydride cordless phone batteries will operate in the same way as the original NiCd battery in your cordless phone and will
recharge in a phone handset that was designed for NiCd cells. You may see a slightly shorter working life than the original NiCd
battery as the charging regime for a NiMH cell is different from that used on NiCd cells, however the difference in life expectancy is
small and using a NiMH battery will allow you to continue to use your phone!

Why is the 'mAh' rating of my new battery different from the original one?

The 'mAh' or milliAmphour value on your battery indicates its ability to hold charge. The higher this number the longer the battery
will operate your phone for before it needs to be recharged. As rechargeable battery technology has advanced, so the ability of the
batteries to hold a higher and higher charge before needing to be recharged has increased. This means that older batteries with a
capacity of 300mAh will now be replaced with batteries with a capacity of 700mAh. Replacing your cordless phone battery with a higher
capacity battery it will allow you to use the phone for longer periods of time before it runs out of charge, however the battery may
need to be charged for longer before reaching a full charge. When you put the new battery into your phone handset it is recommended
that you leave the phone handset on the charger base overnight to ensure it is fully charged before you start to use the handset.

Replacing a watch battery

How do I know which watch battery I need?

To identify the type of battery you need to replace, the first step is to remove the back of the watch - see below. Once you have opened
the watch in most cases you will see a single silver oxide watch battery or possibly a larger single lithium coin cell battery. Some
more technical watches (such as the Casio Protrek watches) may use more than one battery. The battery or batteries will have a code
stamped onto them that will allow you to identify the correct replacement. Type the code into our search box (At the top of the right
hand menu) and you should see a list of links to the correct battery. Alternatively use our
Battery Cross Reference Table
to identify the correct battery by code or dimensions.

Do I need a special tool to remove the watch back?

First you need to determine if the watch is a snap back type or a screw back. If the watch back has a series of equally spaced slots
(usually about 6) around it's perimeter, then it is a screw back and you will need a special tool in most cases. You can sometimes
remove a screw back using a pair of snipe nose pliers in two of the slots, but unless the watch can be mounted safely in a small vice
then this is quite difficult. We can sell a tool for this purpose, but they are 6.50 each and so you need to weigh up how many times
you will be removing the watch's back to know if it's worth buying one. The back from snap back watches can be removed with a blunt
pen knife. If you look carefully around the edge of the watch casing you should see a small indent in the cover. This is where you
start with the blunt pen knife, working your way around the edge twisting the knife gently as you go. Eventually the back will snap
out of the watch casing.

Do I need to replace the rubber seal?

Well, you should really, but we bet most high street jewellers who change a battery for you won't do this. It depends if you want the watch to be waterproof or water resistant again and if you are going to use it in conditions where it will be exposed to water or dampness. If this is the case then you need to take the watch to a jewellers, make them aware of your requirements and then it is likely that they will send it off to the manufacturer to have the battery changed and the watch pressure tested.
If however, your watch is not exposed to these conditions then it is likely that changing the battery yourself will leave you in no worse a position than had you taken the watch to a high street jewellers and got them to change the battery for you. They will often say, after changing the battery, that they cannot guarantee that the watch is now waterproof but still charge you around £6 or more.

My watch is waterproof, how can this be guaranteed after changing the battery?

The bottom line is that the watch is likely to have to be sent away unless you can find a jeweller or watch repairer carrying the special piece of equipment required to verify that the watch is still waterproof after the battery change.
The test equipment required to do this only costs a couple of hundred pounds and we are surprised that most high street jewellers don't have it. It consists of a small tank which is half filled with water. The watch is suspended in the air space above the water and the tank is sealed. The tank is then pressurised with a hand pump to the required test pressure. Once at this pressure, the watch is lowered into the water and then the pressure released from the tank. If bubbles are seen coming OUT of the watch then clearly it is not water tight (well, not air tight actually). The seal will have to be changed again, the back retightened and the test repeated. This is what is likely to happen when the watch is "sent back to the manufacturer" when you take it to the jewellers and ask that the battery be changed, but you want it to be waterproof again.

I have the back off the watch, but it seems that I need to remove a screw in order to get the old battery out.

Be careful here. This may or may not be the case. In some watches it is merely a case of loosening a screw which will allow a clip to be moved to the side enough to allow the battery to be levered out. Once the screw is removed they are rather difficult to get back in, although not impossible. Just don't go trying it when you have had a glass or two of wine that's all. So, check that you really do have to remove a screw in order to remove the battery. In most cases it is a merely a question or loosening a screw and on some even there is no screw at all, just a clip which when prised back slightly will allow the old battery to pop out.

I have a snap back case and I am having trouble getting the back on.

Some case backs are tight. When placing the case back be sure that the indent on the cover lines with the winder. Most cases have a small indent to allow for the winder shaft. The best way to put the cover back on is to place the watch face down on a flat protected surface - a mouse mat is ideal. Then with the case lined up with the back, push down with both thumbs, applying even pressure to the case edge, making sure that one side doesn't get pushed further in than the other. With the cover being pushed evenly around its edge, it should snap back into place. If this still fails to get the cover back, then a jeweller would use a case press. Basically this is a vice which comes with dies which fit over the back and one around the watch glass which means that the glass doesn't get broken when the vice is tightened. If you have a vice at home you may be able to improvise something which would give you the same thing.

I have replaced the battery but the watch isn't working.

The obvious one first. Is the winder (crown) pushed fully home? If so, has the watch been left standing with an old battery inside it for a long period of time? If this is the case it is likely that the watch is at fault. New battery failure is very rare, and if the watch has been left idle for a long period then it may never work again. Sometimes placing the watch in a warm place will "loosen" things up sufficiently to get the mechanism working again. We have fitted several new batteries to watches which have started for a while then stopped. Leaving them in a warm airing cupboard over night, believe it or not, actually got them going again. It is always best to replace a battery in a watch as soon as the watch stops working.

I have replaced the battery in a LCD watch, but the display is all funny.

If this happens then most of these watches can be reset. If you remove the back again, you should see some indication of a reset hole on the watch's movement. This is a hole into which you place one leg of a pair of metal tweezers and the other leg touches the main movement housing.
This should reset the display.

How do I adjust the the metal bracelet on my Casio watch?

Instructions on how to adjust the metal bracelet of your new Casio G-shock or Wave Ceptor watch.

The Casio bracelet is held together with removable pins secured by a central metal ferrule. Arrows on the underside of each link show which
links can be removed. If more than one link is to be removed then it is advisable to remove a link from each side of the bracelet so that the
clasp remains central on the underside of the wrist when the watch is worn.

Tools required:
A thin pointy object - like a bradawl. Our Bracelet Link removal tool is ideal.
Long nose pliers
A vice and material to cushion the bracelet.
A small craft hammer.

Preparations:
Make sure you work area is clear and place a sheet or other covering on the floor to catch any small bits that may 'ping' off as you work on
the bracelet. Using a small vice to hold the bracelet when working is helpful if you haven't bought our Bracelet Link removal tool.
Identify how many links you need to take out. Put the watch on your wrist and work out how many links need to come out. Usually 2 or 4 links
will have to be removed.

Step 1 - Separating the clasp
Remove the spring bar from the clasp so that you have the bracelet separated. If you hold the clasp in your left hand it is the spring bar
on the left side of the clasp. You can use the bradawl to push and compress the spring bar so that it can be slid out of its retaining hole and
this will release the two parts of the clasp.You will notice two holes for this spring bar on the clasp giving you the opportunity to make a
small adjustment to the bracelet length should you need it. Be careful that the spring bar does not ping across the room, as it is the only
one you have and losing it will be an inconvenience.

Step 2 - Removing a link
Identify the link that needs to be removed and using a bradawl push the pin securing that link.
Follow the direction of the arrows imprinted on the underside of the link. The pin should be pushed about 2 or 3 mm and then pulled from the
other side using the pliers. This step is easier using the Bracelet Link removal tool!
When the pin is pulled out completely it releases a small metal ferrule that sits in the central part of the joining link. This ferrule will
fall out on to your worktop or the sheet that you carefully placed on the floor! You will need the ferrule later so don't lose it.
Repeat the process on the other side of the link so that you now have removed one entire link and have two pins and two ferrules sitting safely
to one side.
Now you have a bit more confidence the next link will be easier. The second link should be taken from the other side of the bracelet. Repeat
this process if more links need to be removed.

Step 3 - Connecting the bracelet together
The small ferrule needs to be put back into the central part of the link that you are joining back together. This time working in the opposite
direction to the arrow on the link, push the pin back through the link to engage the ferrule. If necessary you can carefully tap the pin back
into place with the hammer.

Step 4 - Reconnecting the Clasp
Reconnecting the clasp is a simple reversal of the disconnecting process. Try on the watch and it is a little loose or a little tight you can
adjust the clasp by inserting the spring bar into the alternative set of holes.
After the adjustment you will have spare links, pins and ferrules. These will be useful if you have bent a pin or lost a ferrule during the
adjustment process.
Job done!

Waterproof Rating of your watch

This can be a confusing area because.....

The water resistance properties of a watch are usually expressed in meters; 50m, 100m or 200m are the most commonly seen ratings. These measurements refer to
the depth at which a watch has been tested in a laboratory test where the watch and the water are completely motionless. However in real life situations,
when the watch is being worn, it is not still and the movement of the wearer's arm through the water dramatically increases the pressure on the watch. This
means that these values do not indicate the depth in water to which the watch can be safely worn.

So what do these ratings mean?

Water-resistant to 30 meters (100 feet): Can be worn whilst water is being splashed but not under any pressure. Must not be worn whilst swimming or diving. Water-tested to 50 meters (165 feet): Suitable for light water activities or swimming* in shallow water, but not whilst snorkelling or scuba diving. Water-tested to 100 meters (330 feet): Suitable for swimming*, snorkeling and poolside diving, but not highboard diving or scuba diving. Water-tested to 200 meters (660 feet): Suitable for swimming* and diving at depths not requiring helium gas.

*It is not recommended to operate the buttons on your watch whilst swimming or diving or when shampoo or soap bubbles are on the case.

Help Regarding Battery Chargers

There are two main types of battery charger...

A timed battery charger and an intelligent battery charger. A timed battery charger will tend to charge rechargeable
batteries for a fixed length of time, after which the battery charger may switch to trickle charge or simply switch off. These battery
chargers are fine for batteries of a certain capacity. Say your battery charger takes 5 hours to fully charge 1700mAh AA batteries.
Perhaps these batteries came with the battery charger. All will be fine and your batteries will reach their full charge.
However, if you put higher capacity batteries in the same battery charger, it will charge for 5 hours at the same rate and your
higher capacity batteries will only ever be partially charged (to about 1700mAh).

Ok, so how about I charge the higher capacity rechargeable batteries again before use, using the same battery charger?

You could do this of course as this will give the batteries a double dose. But how would you feel if, on a drinking binge, your
capacity was say, 8 glasses of wine, and you were forced to take two lots of 5? You get the jist?
The charger will spend another 5 hours charging the batteries, but of course you risk damaging the batteries
by overcharging them. This will shorten their life. Quite an apt analogy perhaps?
We get many customers who purchase the new high capacity Uniross 2500mAh NiMH AA batteries and find that the performance of these batteries
is not much better than the 1700mAh batteries they were replacing. In most cases this is because the battery charger being used
is a timed battery charger. The best solution is to use an intelligent battery charger.

What is an intelligent battery charger?

An intelligent battery charger is just that, cleverer than a timed battery charger. It is often microprocessor controlled and charges the rechargeable
batteries until their full capacity is reached. Once they are fully charged, the battery charger stops charging, preventing your batteries
from being "cooked" which prolongs their life.

Sorry, no. Well you can, but the battery life will be severely affected by this treatment. Some battery chargers allow the charging of both NiCd batteries and NiMH batteries.
Some battery chargers auto sense the battery type (like the Ansmann Energy 4 Traveller battery
charger) and some require a switch to be used to select the battery type.
The Camlink Z1 battery charger is ideal for charging Lithium-Ion batteries for digital cameras. If your
digital camera uses regular AA rechargeable batteries, the Ansmann budget charger EC-800 would be a
good choice for a low cost intelligent charger.

WEEE Regulations - Disposal of Electrical and Electronic Goods

The Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE) Directive is now UK law. The legislation aims to make producers pay for the collection, treatment and recovery of waste
electrical equipment. The regulations also mean that suppliers of equipment like high street shops and internet retailers must allow consumers to return their waste equipment
free of charge.

The amount of WEEE we throw away is increasing by around 5% each year, making it the fastest growing waste stream in the UK.

Much of the UK's WEEE ends up in landfill, where the lead and other toxins it contains can cause soil and water contamination.
This can have a harmful effect on natural habitat, wildlife and also human health.

Many electrical items that we throw away can be repaired or recycled. Recycling items helps to save our natural finite resources and also
reduces the environmental and health risks associated with sending electrical goods to landfill.

Distributors of new Electric and Electronic Equipment (EEE) have a part to play in reducing the amount of WEEE going into landfill sites.

WatchBattery (UK) Ltd is obliged under these regulations to offer our customers free take-back of their WEEE on a like-for-like basis when
they buy a new Electrical or Electronic product from us.

For example, if a customer bought a new battery charger from us we would accept their old battery charger and prevent it going into
a landfill site by disposing of it safely.
Customers must return their WEEE item to us within 28 days of purchasing their new item. Please contact us using our using our
Contact Us form for a returns code before sending items back to us. Please note that the
cost of returning items to our premises is borne by the customer.

Under the WEEE Regulations, all new electrical goods should now be marked with the crossed-out wheeled bin symbol shown below:

Goods are marked with this symbol to show that they were produced after 13th August 2005, and should be disposed of separately from normal household waste
so that they can be recycled.

The Waste Batteries and Accumulators Regulations 2009

Under The Waste Batteries and Accumulators Regulations 2009 we are able to offer to accept back your waste portable batteries for disposal. Please note
that you must not send used batteries through the post, however you can bring them to us at:

You can locate your local waste disposal site via your local council website or through websites such as www.recyclenow.co.uk or
www.recyclemore.co.uk.
Click Recycle Now to use the Recycle Now waste diposal site locator
Click Recycle More to use the Recycle More waste diposal site locator.

And finally we thought it a good idea that if people who have ordered
from us told us what their watch battery was going to be used for we could list it here in the table below.
If your gizmo is listed here, order the battery suggested.You can use Control-F to do a search
for what you want on this page