The Strip House/Palm Beach Gardens

May 2, 2008|By Donald Kim Dining

The Strip House, which has grown to nine locations across the United States and Puerto Rico, opened in Palm Beach Gardens in early 2006. The restaurant is a nice fit in the newly developed Downtown at the Gardens.

The risque decor celebrates early 20th century burlesque in a fun way. Mood lighting, red velvet settees and formally dressed staff create an atmosphere of seductive pleasures. The vintage photo reproductions on the walls may not be appropriate to all ages and tastes.

The menu offers traditional steakhouse dishes, but the preparations and presentations are innovative.

Warm garlic bread with Gorgonzola fondue ($8) is a stack of crispy garlic breadsticks surrounded by a velvety and piquant warm Gorgonzola dip. The bread was a little oily, but it was nice and garlicky, so as to be not unpleasant. The sauce was absolutely delightful.

Lobster bisque ($14) at the Strip House raises the bar on a classic. A crispy red pepper ravioli is served in a bath of intensely flavorful lobster stock; the server then pours warmed heavy cream into the bowl in front of the diner. The visually inviting swirls of cream and stock are reminiscent of the red patterned silk that abounds in the decor.

Categorized as a "table share appetizer," the Foie Gras Torchon ($17) is a large plateful of decadently rich slices of buttery goose liver, bejeweled with fig halves and drizzled with a slightly sweet fig reduction. Freshly toasted slices of crusty baguette complete the dish. Torchon denotes the classic preparation of foie gras in which the liver is wrapped in a towel and gently poached, so there is no "fat cap" as on a terrine.

Steaks are center stage at the Strip House and, of course, the New York strip is the star. Offered in 16-ounce ($41) and 20-ounce ($51) cuts, it is nicely aged and flame-grilled. The steak is excellent, and to add sauce or further seasoning would be a sin.

The filet mignon was also excellent, and available in 10-ounce ($35) and 14-ounce ($41) cuts. The Stilton cheese sauce is a truly remarkable complement, but should be used sparingly because the intensity could drown the delicate flavor of the filet.

A limited amount of chateaubriand is available, and other cuts of beef are on the menu.

The veal T-bone piqued my interest; however, the Colorado lamb rack ($38) won my favor. The lamb rack is lightly crusted with Dijon and breadcrumbs and served cut into two-bone pieces. The dish is presented on a bed of white bean stew, which gives the savory meat a nicely understated backdrop.

The coup de grM-bce is the 24-layer chocolate cake ($16). The nicely light crM-hme brM-{lM-ie ($9) has a perfectly caramelized top.

Please call to confirm hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, fax a current menu that includes the name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at foodie@fishsticks.cc or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.