This country is modernizing fast, but Hindus are still rooted in an ancient religion.

Lakshmi Singh Takari comes from a wealthy Indian family but gave up nearly all of her material possessions to study with holy men.

"Look at Amaraji sitting there," she said. "He thinks he's a king. You know, he's got nothing, but he's a king in his thoughts."

On the banks of the Ganges, the crowd's religious fervor became increasingly chaotic. At times it came dangerously close to a stampede as pilgrims rushed forward -- wave after wave -- toward the water.

At least 30 people were crushed to death in a stampede as pilgrims tried to board a train.

Later in the day came the news that there was a stampede as pilgrims left the Kumbh Mela and tried to board a train. At least 30 people were crushed to death.