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Learn & Explore Tip of the Day

August 2, 2015

Use a polarizing filter to lessen or eliminate reflections from glass. This works really well on windows of stores or cars. But the trade-off is that your exposure will be a bit longer, as the light is cut down by almost two stops.

On photo sharing sites like Flickr you can often view the details of a photograph and take a look at the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other settings. While this won’t teach you how to create a photo from scratch it will show you what technical choices photographers made to capture their images.

If your COOLPIX camera or NIKKOR lens has image stabilization (Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction), know when to use it and when to turn it off. If you don’t know how your stabilization system works, turn it off when you’re shooting with a tripod. If it doesn’t sense that the camera is solidly mounted, it can add movement while trying to reduce blur.

Always use your lens hood (if you have one) or buy a lens hood (if you don’t). The lens hood isn’t just good for preventing flare. It can keep you from losing the contrast of your images as well as protect your front lens element from raindrops too.

When shooting a portrait of an athlete, use fill flash (or flash turned on even in daylight) to light up the shadow areas under a hat or helmet. This will balance the light from the entire scene and light up the face. On a compact camera, the setting to choose is "Flash On."

Look around you when you’re shooting at sunset. The objects that look boring during the day magically come to life when the rays of the sun hit them. Buildings, cars and anything reflective take on a special quality at sunset.

If your camera can capture images in both RAW and JPEG format, do so even if you don’t work with RAW images now. These RAW files have the highest image quality possible, so you can edit them years from now and be sure you’re getting the best looking image possible.

Shooting a lightning storm can be exciting. Use a tripod and set you camera to record a long exposure. With DSLRs, 15 seconds is a good start, but you may have to use up to 30 seconds, or bulb setting (where the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button). Because you never know when the lightning will occur, keep shooting for best results. Remember to always keep a safe distance, and don’t forget the tripod to avoid blurry photos!

Take a self-portrait each day for a week or month (or a year). It’s harder than you think to take an attractive photo of yourself, and if you do it for long enough you’ll have an interesting series that shows how you’ve changed over time.

Look on photo sharing sites for inspiration for your next photo shoot. Pick a subject you want to photograph or a location and search for photos of that. You’ll see a wide array of different techniques and styles that will inspire you.

Don’t stop shooting after the action has finished in sports. Get in close on a happy or sad face … a celebration after a goal … or the dejection on the sideline after a loss. The emotion of the game speaks volumes and can really round out a series of pictures.

If you live in a city or near a big photo store, find a photographic rental house and rent a lens that you don’t have. Take a telephoto lens to a ball game or rent a wide-angle lens and take it camping. This will give you a chance to try a new piece of equipment and expand your photographic horizons.

You should format the memory card in your camera on a regular basis. By using the camera’s built-in “Format” function, found in the menus, you lessen the chance of having card problems in the future. Doing so is better than just deleting the images using the camera or the computer.

Take a step back. No, farther back. See what the scene looks like from far away to get perspective. Walk around it, to see it from different angles. There’s a tendency to rush up to something and take a photo, but if you look at it from different angles you’re more likely to find something you would otherwise have missed.

Most cameras with built-in flashes have a red-eye reduction setting that fire several quick pre-flashes before the main burst of light. Turn this off if you’re not photographing people because it drains the battery and doesn’t help light up your scene.

Make a great team picture. Get the team together in front of a nice background—maybe the goal, the net or the team logo on the field or floor. Shoot the ordinary, and then let the kids have some fun, making faces or funny poses. That’s the one they will always remember.

At a wedding, watch what the photographer is doing and pick something different to shoot. If the photographer is shooting the cake cutting, take pictures of the band. If the photographer is shooting the bouquet toss with a wide-angle lens from behind the bride, use a telephoto to capture people trying to catch the flowers. You’ll capture a part of the wedding that wouldn’t have been documented otherwise.

It’s always best to shoot group pictures in a location that tells something about the people. For example, shoot the sports team on the field instead of the parking lot. Try to think about how the background, or setting, adds to the story of who they are.

Do some photography pro bono. Find a charitable organization in your area that can’t afford a photographer and offer your services for free. The group will end up with a precious resource it wouldn’t have had access to; and photos of an event or service the organization provides can help it get funding.

Try to buy the fast and large memory cards. Speed ratings on the cards are important for live action shots, especially when you’re shooting in sports or continuous scene modes, or at the highest frame rate. That will allow the camera to shoot at its fastest frame rate with little worry the camera will have to pause to offload images to the card.

Freeze the sports action. The key is using a high shutter speed. On compact cameras, use the sports scene mode. On a DSLR, pick a high shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or above. This will freeze almost all action. If the light is low, adjust your ISO to a higher sensitivity (800-1600 ISO), which will allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

Place your subjects equally away from the camera when shooting a group. Avoid placing any of your subjects a lot closer to your camera than others. That can lead to some of your family members being out of focus or just looking a little out of the mix.

Babies are great subjects because they’re so darn cute. Focus on the teeny body parts with a macro lens. Pudgy hands, small ears, and teeny elbows—they’re even cuter when they’re the subjects of your photo.

Use a small flashlight to light up a scene. Put one behind or under an object at night to create an interesting glow or use it instead of a flash. Take long-exposure shots using a flash as a light source and you can create interesting glowing sections of your photos.

Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.

When photographing cars, try getting a different perspective. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the hood ornament with the hood stretched out behind. Get low and shoot up on the car. Grab a ladder and shoot a bird’s eye view. You’ll create a photograph that captures a car as art.

When shooting nighttime landscapes, use a low ISO (400 or below if possible) while working from a tripod. Open your aperture to F/4 or F/5.6. This will allow you to have a shot full of detail and of good quality. Remember that night shots need a subject, just like day shots.

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The ultimate fisheye lens for ultra-wide-angle perspectives

If you’ve ever worried that a fisheye lens will spend more time in your lens bag than on your camera, just look at the stunning photos taken by the AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D. Its unique yet versatile 16mm perspective and supreme optical performance brings a new angle to landscapes, architecture, interiors—even close-ups. Compact, lightweight and fast enough for low-light shooting, the AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D will inspire new views of your world.

Spectacular new perspectives

Frame-filling 180° viewing angle

Put on the AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D and watch nearly every setting or space open up to a stunning new view. Achieve dramatic 180-degree fisheye coverage with edge-to-edge sharpness, even at the lens’ widest f/2.8 aperture setting. From lanscapes and action to architecture and interiors, the AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D delivers consistently spectacular images.

Wonderful lens
I purcahsed this lens mainly to shoot the Aurora Borealis but find my self using it for many other applications. The lens is tack sharp and works well for shooting groups indoors. There are several software packages that allow you to flatten the image it you do not like the "fish eye" look.
The only complaint I have with the 16mm is the lens cap which does not fit well and you will loose it if you do not take some measure not to. I use a couple of small pieces of gaffers tape to keep it in place. It would be nice if Nikon would fix this.
August 5, 2012

5 stars
been hesitant about purchasing a fisheye as it always seem more of a gimick than a tool. I have found it to be a great tool in the lens and creative arsenal. Very surprising results with landscapes as well as interesting results shooting golf courses and action. Tack sharp with tremendous clarity in depth of field if desired
May 24, 2011

I can't believe it's a fisheye?
I've been involved with Nikon equipment for a long time. My favorite lens is my 16 mm fisheye. I purchased it used in NYC back in the 80's. I even use my fisheye as a trade mark for some wedding shots for clients. Five of the photographs displayed were taken with my D700 & Nikkor 16 mm Fisheye.
The Wedding photograph was taken with my D200 & Nikkor 10.5 mm Fisheye.
April 19, 2011

A great lens
While not a lens I use a great deal, it has a vital place in my photographic arsenal. Stunningly sharp, light, and fun. On my D700 it compliments my 10.5mm on my D2X. This lens will remain with me for a very long time.
January 4, 2011

Sharp and Contrasty
The 16mm 180 degree fisheye is an amazingly sharp and contrasty lens. I have no problem including the sun in my photos, because this lens has no flare or ghosting problems! This lens on my D3 or D700 performs incredibly at f8 or f11. It is great for tight interiors where my AFS 14-24mm can't cover everything. I modified the wide angle lens caps to fit better and keep dust out by using self adhesive felt between the inside ridges of the plastic cap.
The photo is a Full frame D700 shot of the inside of a 35 in. by 35 in. Light tent filled with around a hundred AF 35mm 2.0 D lenses shot from 2 feet away from the middle of the group with no lens correction software adjustments.
October 6, 2010

Outstanding
I have never been a Fish Eye fan until I bought this one. I use it on about anything I can find to use it on. When you use Nikon Capture NX2 to straighten the lines it adds another dimension to my photography. It is always part of my travel gear which consists of
A. 16 FE
B. 18-35 Nikkor
C. 24-120 G VR
D. 50 1.4 G
E. 70-300 G VR
F. D700
July 31, 2010

Lots of Fun, but not just a gimmick
I bought this lens expecting that it would provide an occasional unique perspective. But if it's going to stay unique, you can't use it too much, right? What I found is that it can be used in far more situations than I anticipated, and I'm finding more all the time. With appropriate software it is really good with people in a tight crowd (don't try to correct to rectilinear, use cylindrical correction for more natural looking people images). Because it is so small, it can go along for the ride.
July 31, 2010

Excellent lens
I mainly use this lens with my N90s film camera, but I have also used it with my D70 for undewater photography (ikelite housing), though I seldomly use it with my D300. It is an excellent lens, with superb edge-to-edge resolution and very light. The fisheye distortion is a lot of fun and provides a very fresh perspective. It suffers a little from chromatic aberration, but that can be easily fixed in post processing. You can also tranform all fisheye pictures to rectilinear with postprocessing software (I use lightroom). It's an expensive and niche lens, but one that has great resolution and is so much fun to use!
July 30, 2010

Great lens for a super wide view
I had this lens since 1993 love it, popular in the Art world, it it great for photographing functions , weddings with a bit of abstraction as well landscape shots, express it your way, it is handy when you can not be bother bringing a panorama camera with you especially with FX format.
15 years ago I accidentally drop this lens down 10 concrete steps and not a single lens went out alignment and no lens breakage, no loss of quality, super tough Nikon
July 30, 2010

Fun Lens on Full Frame
I LOVE my 10.5mm fisheye. But when I'm using my D3, I turn to the 16mm for its full frame coverage. It's a great little lens and compact enough to carry in a pocket. Looking to make your work stand out or going for a different look...this is the lens for you!
July 30, 2010

Unexpectedly wonderful portrait lens!
I buy all my lenses for film cameras, but when I was experimenting with portraits on my D200 this 16mm fisheye was performing miracles for me. Half of the time when I was shooting from an angle that prevented me from looking through the viewfinder, I was able to capture the scene I had in my head. Same goes for concert photography when you're right up front and in the band's face with your camera, this thing's focus performs admirably from any aperture.
April 15, 2011

Nice contrasty fish
Great build and fine shots when stopped down to about f5.6 - f8. Gives character to certain shots.
July 31, 2010

Good But.....
While the lens is great, Nikon should really figure a way to keep a lens cap on it. What they provide easily falls off leaving an expensive piece of glass exposed. It does make some great shots though.
July 30, 2010

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Am I able to cut ND filters from gelatin sheets (such as Kodak Wratten) into circular pieces and place these inside the supplied rear bayonet filters supplied with this lens? I have noticed there is a small screw on the filter, is this there for this purpose?Would there be any problems with ghosting/flare/internal reflections using this method?

2 years, 8 months ago by

by

Dan

Melbourne VIC, Australia

Location :

Melbourne VIC, Australia

Age: 35-44

Favorite Subject: Landscape

Nikon Family: 6-10 years

Experience: 3-6 months

Role: Professional photographer

4 Answers

Answers

0points

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Keith,,the filter IS on the back,,it looks like part of the lens but is there

Dec 28, 2012 by

by

jakell2010 NIKON PRO member

Kingston, NY, USA

Location :

Kingston, NY, USA

Age: 45-54

Favorite Subject: Nature

Nikon Family: 11-20 years

Experience: More than a year

Role: Semi-professional photographer

+1point

1out of1found this answer helpful.

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Do they give me the same range of focal length, while i'm setting both of them in 16 mm?

2 years, 5 months ago by

by

Serious Amateur

Age: 45-54

Favorite Subject: Nature

Nikon Family: 6-10 years

Experience: More than a year

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

3 Answers

Answers

0points

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Thank you for answer me, only one more question, does Nikon make or provide any fish eye lens adapter with 8mm or 10mm range @f 2.8?

Mar 6, 2013 by

by

Anonymous

+1point

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A fisheye lens features an ultra-wide angle of view that bends and distorts the subject matter as it reaches the edges of the frame. Check out the attached sample image from the AF-Fisheye Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 lens or visit the following page on Nikonusa.com for more sample images.http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Pr...

The AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED is a high-performance, ultra-wide angle lens without the fisheye distortion. Product information and sample images for this lens can be found here:http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Pr...

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Looking for a fixed lens for a D 90 that will give equivalent view to a 24mm wide angle in 35mm format.

3 years, 7 months ago by

by

Alan P

Sarasota, FL

Location :

Sarasota, FL

Age: 55-65

Favorite Subject: Landscape

Nikon Family: 21+ years

Experience: Less than a month

Role: Semi-professional photographer

2 Answers

Answers

-1point

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I have used this lens on the D90. It has much less distortion on the edges.

Aug 4, 2012 by

by

BruceKap

Pasadena, CA

Location :

Pasadena, CA

Age: 35-44

Favorite Subject: Family & Friends

Nikon Family: 2-5 years

Experience: 3-6 months

Role: Semi-professional photographer

+2points

2out of2found this answer helpful.

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Is there any possible way a circular polarizing filter can be used, even in a makeshift way, with this lens?

2 years, 11 months ago by

by

Nikon amateur enthusiast

Sydney NSW, Australia

Location :

Sydney NSW, Australia

Age: 35-44

Nikon Family: 2-5 years

Experience: 6-12 months

2 Answers

Answers

0points

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Anything you place in front of this lens will result in very distracting vignetting.Actually, it will be severe vignetting. You would likely get the same usable image with a 24mm or 28mm lens, but across more area of the sensor.

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It may be possible but it is definitely not recommended on a 180 degree view fisheye.This lens is designed to use bayonette, rear-attached filters.These rear-attached filters are required for use and come in a set of 4.If you do not have one installed you WILL have issues with edge sharpness and focusing.As far as I know the only source of these filters is Nikon.

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