There are times when a man (and, indeed a woman, but I’m speaking from personal experience) needs a great deal of delicious protein. This is when I head to The Butcher Grill for oysters and steak. Put it like this, Shanahan’s is too dear and too full of builders for me. TBG is smaller, much cheaper and much more fun. It also smells of meat being grilled, as it should. That’s a great aperitif.