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Author
Topic: Ambient Energy (Read 4046 times)

I have read hundreds of postings on free energy in which everything is discussed except the very basics at hand. I guess some people only want to impress others with theirfanciful irrelavent theories. I hope to correct this problem by discussing only the basics needed to acquire this energy.All that's required is some basic electronic theory and lots of common sense.

By reading much of Tesla's experiments, we already know that our earth is sitting in a sea ofenergy that most people are not simply aware of. For lack of a better word Tesla simply called it "aether waves".He said the aether through out the universe consists of sub-atomic particles of matterthat have either a positive charge or a negative charge. Particles so small that they cantravel through anything.

Luckily mother nature assures that everything stays in balance by providing as many positivecharges as there is negative ones. Sometimes however, an area in the upper atmosphere accumulates more positive charges then there are negative. This unbalancing creates a state of tension for the positive charges which are just itching to meet up with all those negative charges surrounding our earth.But they can't get down to earth because the dry air acts as an electrical insulator. So they remain in limbo until mother nature creates a rain storm which then moistens the airenough for them to travel downward. They reach the earth with a big bang that createsbillions of watts of electricity. Thanks go to mother nature for putting things back into balance.

All this is to show that there IS electricity in the air. We just need a way to access it.

It's been said many times, that to access this energy from the environment we need to firstcreate some kind of disturbance to create an imbalance. This disturbance wakes up some of these charges which then tend to move into the path of our HV coils.Of course the higher the voltage, the stronger the disturbance which attracts MORE charges. The more often we can get this to happen (frequency), the more charges that will accumulatein our circuit.

A spark gap that just acts as a H.V. switch is of course the most practical way of creating this disturbance.When the coil voltage is building up to the point where it peaks on the sine wave, then a spark will occur across the gap. If the HV rectifier anode is connected to the top end of coil and cathode connected to the spark gap, then from the S.G. a positive going pulse will be going through the main H.v. coil then back to ground.

When sine wave drops in strength, killing the spark then the coil's magnetic field suddenly collapses and gives off a much higher going negative pulse.It is this much higher pulse that we should use to attract the charges into our circuit.

As we all know that the earth has far more negative charges than positive then we should be striving to attract more positive charges from the ambient surroundings.

Since only opposites attract, then the main HV coil should be pulsed using the stronger negative pulse to attract more of the positive charges. The positive going charges will then be attracted to the negative earth ground by first passing through our main HV coil.

This all will require the use of a second H.v. rectifier connected in reverse to capture those negative pulses.

If the HV coil puts out 6kv then we only have to attract 1/2 amp into our circuit to get a power out of 3000 watts. 8kv = 4000 watts.

Moral of the store:Use lots of high voltage. And use very high frequencies (mhz).

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

What about using AI to create/help define a perpetual machine. There's lot of information out there fake an real, We have Tesla and others patents, physics, mechanics, new and crazy theories, new materials, etc. Why not get help from a system that could analyse all that data Just to put it to a test

Ok, now let's see if we can make some of that high-voltage and very high frequency voltage.

We can follow the example of a Tesla coil by using many turns in the secondary and pulsing the base with just a few turns. Don't use a large diameter coil for this, as we want a slim coil form that can take a few hundred turns. The more turns in a coil, the higher the voltage.

The best coil for our purpose would be a 1/4 wave-length of fine wire wound on a 1 inch form.If using 3mhz for our resonant pulsing then 1/4 wl would be approx. 247/3 = 82ft. or 984 in.If using #28awg wire which has 72.7 turns to the inch then one turn would be 3.14 x 1 = 3.14 inches. Wire len.(984) divided by 3.14 = 313 turns. Coil len. would be 984/72.7 = 4.3 in. So a 6 in. core len. would do just fine.

I know there are some out there (I was one of them) that will tell you that you can't get resonance by winding a 1/4 wl piece of wire into a coil. Don't believe them. A coil like this with many turns has capacitance between the turns which also makes itresonate at a much lower frequency. This is the LC resonant frequency. Don't use it. The 1/4 wl coil seems to just ignore all the built-in capacitance.Using just 10 watts of input power, I can pulse one of these coils with a 2 turn link at the base and get over 6kv at the top end.

Kapanadze mentioned that he was using "automatic" resonance for his coils. So maybe it's this type of coil he's referring to.

That's it for the voltage generating coil. Will get into the main H.V. coil next time around.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Now that we know a little about accessing some of that free energy, let's see how the main coil works.

This main coil is what gets pulsed by the large negative-going pulse created by the sudden collapsing of magnetic field in coil 1.

The coil I'll be using for this main one will not be 1/4 wl but will be 1/2 wl.Using Smith's formula for 1/2 wl wire len.(494/3) would be 164.66 ft.This will require a longer coil form with smaller wire. Winding it with #30awg wire will make the coil 7in. long so an 8in. form would be needed.

BTW: That formula varies somewhat, depending on coil diameter,core material etc.I've found with my coils that wire len. is always a few per-cent shorter.

This 1/2wl coil will have 629 turns of #30 wire.To be conservative and use the more practical rms rating our coil voltage would be .707x 6000 = 4242 volts.So now let's see how much power we can get from this coil if we are lucky enough to get a .5 amp of energy from our ambient surroundings.

If coil is pulsed at 4242 volts with a 1/2 amp of current flowing through it then the power out would be 4242 x.5 = 2121 watts rms power. Still pretty good.

For a 1/2 wl coil,maximum voltage or emf will be at it's center position. So this is wherethe output coil will be placed. Two coils will change this into an rf transformer and like any other xformer, turns-ratio, will affect voltage and current. That is when voltage is stepped down, then current is stepped up in accordance with this ratio.

Example:If we want 115 volts from the output coil then the voltage-ratio is 4242/115 = 37.The amperage then would go up to 37x.5 = 18.5 amps. No.of turns would be 629/37 = 17.All simple stuff.Still in the process of building my 3 mhz driving circuit.

Finally got the driver built that will be driving the power fet. It can put out a voltageup to 10 volts peak. The fet I'll be using is an IRF510 that will require 5 to 7.5 volts forfor an output of 10 watts or so. This will drive the primary at the base of the h.v.coil. This is a digital type mosfet that also has a linear region to adjust power out-put.The gate to source capacitance of this fet is approx. 180 pf. So there'll be some cut & trybefore getting it tuned to the resonant freq.

Another thing to consider is the speed of the H.V. rectifier.3 mhz has a speed of 1000/3 = 333 nanoseconds. So a diode <= to that number should work ok.

I've been doing a lot of thinking on this thing and have decided to wind the 1/2wl coil ona larger form and place the h.v. coil inside of it. This is more the way Kapanadze did it.The much larger output coil will go top of these two. All these coils have to have a little separation so as not to interfere too much with resonance. This loose coupling will give a higher resonant peak.

My personal objective here is to build something that can light a 100 watt bulb with noattached battery or line cord. I can then show this to convince my friends and neighboursthat we've all been hood-winked for over 100 years by our governments and greedy corporations. No amount of political arguing could convince these fools.

Well, I finished with the Figuera experiments, so thought I'd get back to this thread that has no needfor iron cores. My 1 year absence has also given me much more thinking time.

My driver circuit using the irf510 fet didn't pan out so here's what I done. Tried the slayer coil circuit which worked fine for lighting a cfl bulb but got no spark.The only way I could get a spark was by winding the primary with a #19 gauge length of wirethat was 1/4 the length of the secondary, and using that coil with a 4 turn feedback in an oscillator circuit.

Yes,the 1/4 thing does work! Not just for the main hv coil but for the primary coil as well. It's also been said that the weight of the primary coil wire should be equal to that of the secondary coil wire. Some will say, "What the hell has wire weight got to do with anything?" Let me explain.Every coil has capacitance between the windings. The larger the wire the higher the cap.The primary is a tank coil that depends on cap. for it's resonance. It just so happens that this weightdifference between these two coils, gives us the right size wire to use for the exact capacitance for primary L/C resonance. So now we have automatic resonance just as kapanadze says. Also Smith and zilano.

I'll be using a frequency of 2.2 mhz so as not to interfere with my ham friends on 160 meters. This is a good compromise freq. as it's high enough for winding a 1/4 w.l. coil on just a 7in.form.And also low enough to permit the use of cheaper slower components.The 7 in. length also allows for more turns that are needed for the higher voltage. My 3 hv coils were wired with #30 wire which doesn't match up in weight to the #19 wire on the primaries.So I ordered some #25 wire which should arrive in a few weeks.