Huaxpaltepec

Hola Tom: First of all I want to congratulate you for the wonderful website you have about Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca. I am from San Andres Huaxpaltepec Oax. It is just amazing reading all what you have written, see I'm from there but I don't really know that much about it. I just know that Huaxpaltepec is a wonderful little town that has a lot to offer from hospitality to all the different ways of enjoyments. I'm writing from Santa Ana California, but I visited my family on April of this year and I'm proud to say that Huaxpaltepec is getting better everyday because now they are remodelating "La Plaza" y "El kiosko" entre otras cosas nuevas como telefonos particulares.

Well I have a lot to say about Huaxpaltepec, but I don't think I could finish in an hour so I'm just gonna say that it was a pleasure reading that website thank you for offering it. If you have any questions about Huaxpaltepec you can send me an email at: soliangel@Hotmail.com. Bueno yo me despido. Espero escuchar pronto de ti o usted oh! porcierto mi nombre es Angela. Bye.

Want to Know More

Hi my name is Christy and I have been searching for some information on Pinotepa Nacional. I am currently in a new relationship with a native of Mexico who moved to Indiana from there and I was hoping to show him how much he means to me by learning about his home town. If there is anything you could do to help I would greatly appreciate it!
Christy
halgren@cqc.com
November 2000

La Costa Chica de Oaxaca

Dear Tom, In response to questions about la Costa Chica I can add a little info based on limited experience. I am lucky enough to have friends there that take me with them to their favorite beaches; El Corralero and Cerro Hermoso. They live in San Andres Huaxpaltepec, about halfway between Pinotepa Nacional and Jamiltepec; maybe an hour or so from Puerto Escondido. I know that Jamiltepec is considered part of la costa chica and that this area extends to and includes the coast of the state of Guerrero.

In Pinotepa one sees many people of black African descent and they predominate in some of the small communities on the beach. It's about a half an hour on a slow dirt road from Pinotepa to El Corralero (it's on the map) . We go to where a large lagoon connects with the ocean where there are a number of palapas (open air restaurants). One of the nicest is owned by a very friendly black family. They cook to order from the catch that individual fishermen bring in in the morning. The stove is adobe and the fuel firewood. Everything is primitive but well manicured. The one necessary modern appliance is a refrigerated cooler for beer and soda. The palapas face the ocean where the surf is obviously too rough for swimming. I don't know about surfing. One can swim on the lagoon side but I find the current a little spooky. One can also rent lanchas or boats for tours of the lagoon.

The fishing here is good. My friend Dago fishes with a net and it may take him 2 to 4 hours to fill a 5-gallon plastic bucket with three or four varieties of pan-sized fish. Dago cleans them and the restaurant owners cook them for us. A few others were catching larger fish with hook and line wrapped around pop bottles.

Maybe halfway between Pinotepa and Puerto Escondido is Cerro Hermoso. There is a small community off the highway on the shore of a large lagoon (on the map) and a beach farther down the road at the mouth of the lagoon. There is a long, straight ocean beach that the locals warn against swimming in but the lagoon is quiet and good for swimming. Palapas, black people, rustic, good place to picnic, swim, fish, etc. A bit run down compared to the Corralero but there is fresh water to rinse off the salt water. My friend Dago dug a well there as he did at his mother's house in Huaxpaltepec. The water table is only ten feet or so below ground.

While la costa of Oaxaca is one of the seven cultural regions of the state of Oaxaca represented annually in the Guelagetza celebration, the Costa Chica is part of La Mixteca. It is however culturally distinct. I'm not really well informed and I'm curious to learn more but I'm aware of a few things particular to this area. The people, according to Mexican friends, are reputed to be open, direct and fun-loving, but somewhat suspicious of outsiders. They say the women are independent, the men crude and the popular dialect vulgar. Hablan pura groseria goes the stereotype. My friend Dago says that this is true but that they are misunderstood. They talk the way they do out of custom not because they are ignorant or backward as the stereotype often assumes but because they want to. . For example, my name is Bill and the Spanish pronunciation sounds like vil, Spanish for vile. So Dago gave me the nickname vil indio or vile indian. Anyway, Dago teaches me their lingo as we go along mostly to assure me not to be offended by their gruff language. And not to go around speaking that way to people I don't know. I get the idea that they are somewhat defensive about their reputation for being backward. Possibly like the US in times past where people with a southern accent were assumed to be dumb hillbillies.

I stayed at the Hotel Pete one night in Pinotepa and talked with several friendly people; both employees and guests. Even the bellboy that came to my room about one a.m. to see if I wanted any sexual services politely excused himself when I declined. In the morning one of the waiters took me to a nearby restaurant as promised so I could try the mole de iguana with handmade tortillas and rich local coffee. Very good.

Apparently there are dangerous people in the area so its not a place for foreigners and other outsiders to explore as casually as other parts of Mexico. My friend Dago has told me that going alone to some of the places we go I would run the risk of encountering belligerent people that would give me a hard time, especially since we spend the night fishing on deserted beaches. He assures me that everything's OK as long as I'm with him or with his daughter.

Back to culture, the city of Pinotepa Nacional is usually represented in the Guelaguetza and their music and dance is notably different in that it is livelier and more familiar sounding to the North American ear. It is interspersed with humorous verses with double meanings shouted to the audience first by a male dancer and then contested by a female dancer. Together they proudly express the attitudes of the people of Pinotepa to the crowd.

I have traveled to Pinotepa by car and by bus from the town of Huajuapan de Leon about 8 hours to the north. It's a bit better road than the one from Oaxaca to Pochutla [Hwy 175] but the buses still never get out of second gear. Some of my Mexican friends are leery of driving on this highway while others say that they are overreacting. Common sense I guess. Like a Mexican man who gave me directions before I crossed the mountains driving alone on the way to Pochutla advised: Don't stop anywhere and don't give anyone a ride. That was after I gave him a ride a mile or two down the road. Oh well.

Well I could go on and on. This is by no means a definitive analysis and my interpretations, of course, are open to question, but I like the Costa Chica and will be going to visit in February. I hope I'll have the chance to visit Puerto Escondido; I've only seen it from the highway. I also would like to read about the experiences of others who have traveled in this area. Nos vemos,

Bill Wells
mixteco1@email.msn.com
November 1999

Beach Questions

I really enjoyed reading your information on the web regarding Pinotepa Nacional and the Costa Chica. I've passed throught the area several times before but never stopped overnight. In early January 2000 I plan to spend a week in the area and am looking at spending the nights in either/or both of Playa Corralero, Oax. and Cuajinicuilapa, Gro. Can you tell me anything more about these areas and whether or not you know of any lodging arrangements. Anything you can provide will be appreciated. Again, thanks for all of your
information on the web.

Bill Masterson
wlmasterson@yahoo.com
November 1999

Folk Dance in Pinotepa

Hi I'm from Pinotepa and I want to say that my little town is the most beautiful in the world, I don't understand how do you know so much about it but all the things that you said in your web page are truth, you forgot to talk about the folk dance and the folk art because it's wonderful; maybe Pinotepa isn't big enough but the food is real delicious and the people are very kind, especially with the people from different countries, I'm very glad that you've liked it and if you've been there; I hope you come back very soon.

Well it's time to go thank you for the web page... Oh! I almost forgot I want to tell you one of many dialogs that a "pinotepense" use to say in the "Chilenas" the folk dance of this beautiful town.....

Playa Ventura, Spear Fishing

Playa Ventura is fifteen minutes north of Marquelia, Guerrero. This beach has everything to offer; Surf, spear fishing, horse back riding, camping, good food, and friendly people.

My girlfriend and I went directly to my friends' restaurant El Faro. The name of the owner of the restaurant is Gaudencio but people call him Gencho. His specialty is pescado empapelado, this is a fish (usually red snapper) mixed with herbs and red chili. It is the same as ala talla except without the mesquite charcoal. Had the pescado frito. Lots of garlic and butter. It was" delicioso".

The road from Acapulco to Playa Ventura (Hwy 200) is brand new. (If anybody knows Mexico this will probably last six months) When you get to Playa Ventura go south about 1km. the road is bad, however, a two wheel drive car will make it .Just go to the left of the lighthouse and mention the Gringo who races motorcycles in Mexico, and you are there!

Regarding Pinotepa Nacional, it has some of the best spear fishing I have ever experienced.

Tim Lynch
cofeeman@acabtu.com.mx
November 1998

Looking For A Place To Rent

Have enjoyed browsing you web site. My wife and I are interested in renting a 2-bedroom apartment or small villa for the month of July or August somewhere in Mexico on the Coast. Please reply to:

Pinotepa Nacional is a charming town (although one could say that it is mostly urbanized) located on the Oaxacan coast. All who go there will be seduced by its natural charms, besides the delicious food there. I recommend trying the barbecue, tamales, and of course the shellfish, I suggest trying the endocos, a delicious local specialty, besides a large variety of fish.
The people of Pinotepa are warm and receive visitors with open arms.
There are several hotels to choose from; they have a bus terminal and efficient local transportation.
There are several clinics and pharmacies like the Farma-Comercial GAZ-HER. Besides being a pharmacy it has a variety of merchandise, and an excellent location on the town square.
Pinotepa has several tourist attractions, among them is the Playa Corralero, a paradise-like place with a beautiful bay, where one can contemplate beautiful evenings. It also has several restaurants. It is a place you must see.
If you travel the Oaxacan couast, allow some time to explore Pinotepa, you won't be sorry, I assure you.

On Buying Property and Enjoying Pinotepa

I developed a strong emotional tie to a native Oaxaqueña from Santiago
Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca. After two years of vacation commuting and
traveling together across Mexico I decided to invest some time and money
in her family home...ending up with me as the land owner of the
neighboring parcel of Ejido Urbano development land. The process of
purchasing Ejido-controlled lands is certainly different from other business transactions
in Mexico or elsewhere.
You must deal with the local "Jeffe" and his ministers, all of whom are
campasinos and or Indians. After buying a round of cold Coca Colas from
their cooler we proceeded to pow-wow only after a crew had come to
measure and duly record, the dimensions of the lot. After two copies
were typed, on an ancient typewriter, we all dutifully signed off with
flourishes and a small tip was exchanged as we left to commit the deal
to cash. As always realize that Ejido lands are FOREVER
Federal Property that you may USE and SELL but not abandon; or
revocation is possible. (even for Mexicans)

Most tourists to Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca, just don't seem to get it and
are seen scurrying for a
bus to Puerto Escondido or Puerto Angel, or are just taking the loop
back to D.F. via Acapulco.
"Pino" as the locals sometimes call it has a large Afro-Black Heritage
due to the proximity of Cuajilicuilapan the "Afro-Black" Town where
thousands of emancipated and escaped slaves located in the 1860's and
now comprise a pure Afro-Black population of about 5,000. Listen for the
Reggae music as you pass through this town!

Meanwhile in "Pino" take the time to visit the Mercado Rodrequez in the
N.W. part of town. Although most foodstuffs are imported from far
distances and command inflated prices, many local products are really
cheap. Try the papayas, peanuts, tobacco (whole leaf @ 2 pesos each),
shrimp, platino de manzana (a favorite), local green bean coffee
(U-Roast-It).

The local Urbano bus lines go everywhere for 2 pesos or less. USE THEM!

Ghar-Zer is the only 24-hour store/farmacia in town...near the Zocalo

The Gaviotas Hotel on Highway 200 near the market is cheaper than the
downtown version.

Many FREE dances and events of strange significance occur on the
zócalo...Check It Out!

The entire town is generally safe to walk during the daytime...be
prepared for stares...if you
speak passable Spanish you will be OK at night too. The locals will be
very curious about where you come from etc.

Pick-up trucks leave from around the mercado for Don Luis Pinotepa, the
trip is bumpy and takes an hour each way, be prepared, the reason to go
is local woven fabrics.

I hope some of this helps you to enjoy: Santiago Pinotepa Nacional,
Oaxaca.

I really enjoy traveling to the beaches of the Oaxacan coast, and would like
for there to be more information on virgin beaches, such as Corralero which is
located near Pinotepa. It is a peaceful place, and wonderful like
all the beaches, but I believe that it is important to make it known, since almost all those which visit this beach are local people from
Pinotepa, Jamiltepec, Cacahuatepec, etc. and very few foreign tourists.
This, I imagine is due to the little publicity that is given to it,
so I would just like to submit this comment to your web page.