The finished measurements are listed as 7 1/2" circumference but doesn't say what part of the leg/foot it refers to. The widest part of my foot is 7" but mid-calf I'm more like 10" if I need the sock a bit smaller or bigger is that easy to do?

Also I noticed that it has no ribbing. Does that mean it would be slouchier than normal? If its already going to be big on me, I don't want it any looser than it already is.

I kinda want to figure this all before I start so I don't run into problems later.

I don't know about the sizing (others will help you with that, I'm sure), but I do know that Stephanie Pearl McPhee does NOT recommend making socks without ribbing. She says they always slide down and bunch up around your ankles. On second thought, though, that may be what you want.

I was looking at the comments of other Ravelers who made these socks; some of them used ribbing in place of the picot edge. Of course, the picot edge is what gives the socks a really dainty look.

I don't know whether you could do both ribbing and a picot edge or not. If this is your first sock and you're fairly new to knitting, you may not be up for changing a pattern that much right off the bat. However, just doing the ribbing would be easy enough.

then you are going to have to cast on more sts if you are doing top down, and definitely definitely definitely rib rib rib, there is no replacement for it, and without it your socks will just fall off, check ravelry for a basic sock pattern, I find that the k1 p1 rib works best, I have diabetic socks that aren't as comfy!

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I made an airplane out of stone, I always did like staying at home- Silverstein

If this pattern is what you want, I'm not sure you'll end up with socks you can really use. My preference for socks that stay up is to have ribbing on the foot, all the way around the arch, as well as the top: it helps the foot stay in place snugly but not too tightly and therefore the top doesn't slouch down as easily because the heel isn't being pulled towards my toe as much. If the goal is to have socks that fit you and you can wear, I'd suggest checking out Silvers Sock Class or even Lifestyle Socks. Lifestyle socks was where I first learned to make socks and every pair so far has been wearable and stays up. Toe-up allows you to adjust the number of stitches as you move up your foot. Need more room so the heel fits over your foot easily when you put it on? Then add them. Want the cuff snugger? Go down a needle size or two or three. I've done the instep on size 1 needles, the main part of the ribbing on size 0 needles, realized it was too loose at the top and dropped down to size 000. One of these days maybe I'll get around to using an actual, for-real sock pattern but at this point, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

One other note: For your first pair you might consider doing a pair in a heavier yarn. Fewer stitches, quicker reults, easier to learn the different techniques you'll need for toes and heels.

Have fun! Socks are addictive.

__________________~ GG

Cheating is an option. . . . Cheaters never win and winners never cheat, but smart knitters who want to retain an iota of sanity do, cheerfully. ~~Kory Stamper

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I was looking at your pattern and I don't see anything that would make it terribly difficult. The picot hem might be a reason for classifying it intermediate, or maybe working the heel flap and doing Kitchener stitching on the toe. After you work the leg you should be able to determine a stitch count to fit your foot and if you need to decrease, just divide the decreases evenly or do a triangular shaped decrease on each side of the sock.

__________________~ GG

Cheating is an option. . . . Cheaters never win and winners never cheat, but smart knitters who want to retain an iota of sanity do, cheerfully. ~~Kory Stamper

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