Piece of the Pie

For great pizza, head to Grimaldi's...then keep walking

6/29/09

Grimaldi's, Lucali, Franny's: We adore you. But getting a coveted seat at your illustrious pizza joints has become an endurance sport, with lines down the block and hour-plus waits. What's a pie lover with high standards to do?

The solution is Ignazio's, which Sicilian-blooded, Bensonhurst-born Louis Termini recently (and boldly) opened just around the corner from Grimaldi's. Termini has valiantly dubbed his signature pie "The Pizza" ($16)--and with good reason. It's the perfect balance of plum-tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and Pecorino Romano on a perfectly charred, slightly-thicker-than-thin crust that refuses to flop when you lift a slice.

Those who usually steer clear of hefty Sicilian pizza will be converted: Termini's version ($20) is light and crisp. And his white pie ($17) is equally excellent, as are Estelle's meatballs ($9)--made from his grandmother's recipe--which are served in a cast-iron skillet, simmering in a made-to-order tomato sauce.

Wash it all down with one of the local beers on tap, a New York state wine or a cold glass of Late di Mandorla, a sweet almond-milk digestivo. Take in the view of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges and boats cruising on the East River, and revel in the fact that for this stellar pie, you didn't have to wait in line (for now, anyway).

Ignazio's Pizza, 4 Water St. (Between Old Fulton and New Dock sts.), Brooklyn; 718-522-2100 or ignaziospizza.com

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