Free Member Patterns : 3 - Lighthttp://www.crochetme.com/media/g/crochet-me-patterns/tags/3+-+Light/default.aspxTags: 3 - LightenCommunityServer 2008.5 SP2 (Build: 40407.4157)Lacy Spring Mittshttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95425.aspxSat, 19 Dec 2009 20:07:34 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95425e11iejane1<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Ellie Thouret</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I wanted to design some ladylike, lacy gloves that would still be warm for springtime weather. Since it&#39;s currently snowing here, it&#39;s unlikely that I&#39;ll be wearing these anytime soon but here&#39;s the pattern anyway!</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
3mm hook<p>Fingering/4ply yarn.</p>
<p>I used a 3mm hook and a cashmere/wool mix yarn (ColourMart 2/15NM in Natural). It&#39;s lovely and warm but very soft.</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
M
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>9sc per inch</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
Cuff:<br />
ch9<br />
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across - 8 sc<br />
Row 2-37: ch1, sc in blo of each sc across - 8 sc<br />
Do not fasten off<br />
Turn cuff so that short ends are together. Sl st up row ends to join sides of cuff together. Turn right side out.<br />
Do not fasten off.<br />
Mitten:<br />
Row 1: Working in ends of rows, ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 37 sc<br />
Row 2: ch1 (counts as first sc throughout), *sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc*, rep from *to* around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells<br />
Row 3-17: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells<br />
Row 18: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, ch6, sk next 8 sts, 5 dc in centre of next shell, *sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st* rep from * to * around ending with shell, sl st in first st to join - 7 shells<br />
Row 19: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sts, *shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells<br />
Row 20-24: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells<br />
Row 25-26: ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 45 sc<br />
Fasten off.<br />
To finish, join yarn in any st at bottom of mitten.<br />
ch1, sc evenly around, sl st in first st to join.<br />
Fasten off.<p>Weave in ends and block to desired measurements. </p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Woolly Warm hands: a hot-drinks cup sleevehttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95408.aspxSun, 06 Dec 2009 22:09:33 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95408Sawatdee0<h2>Author</h2>
<p>by Elijah K.</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>This is a WiP (Work in progress), so I have no real right to post this, but I&#39;m doing it anyway. This sleeve is worked from the top down, because I started too big for the bottom.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
Yarn: DK or worsted weight wool blend<p>Hook: 5 mm (H-6) or whatever hook you need to obtain this gauge</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
13 cm high (or so), and whatever circumference (I haven&#39;t measured)
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>3 tr: 1.75 cm long, 1.5 cm tall, or about that. Those are just my measurements</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
turning chain: tch<br />
slip stitch: sl st<br />
triple crochet: tr<br />
double crochet: dc<br />
chain: ch<p>st(s): stitch(es)</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>Ch 46, join to first ch by sl st.</p>
<p>R1: Make a turning ch of 3, dc 51 into ring, join into the top of the tch by sl st.</p>
<p>R2: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr 2, repeat from* until you get to 3 sts from the tch, tr 2 together, tr, join to the top of the tch by sl st.</p>
<p>R3: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr, repeat from* until you get to the tch, sl st in the top of it.</p>
<p>R4-9: Tch of 4, *tr 2 together, tr, repeat from * until you get to 0, 1, or 2 sts of the tch. If 2, tr 2 together, sl st in the top of the tch. If 1, tr , then sl st in the top of the tch. If you are at the tch, sl st into the top of it.</p>
<p>Cut yarn, then pull all of it through the loop and tighten it. Then cut both loose ends to 3 cm, and weave them in on the inside.</p>
<p>Have fun! </p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Logwood Shawlettehttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95359.aspxTue, 29 Sep 2009 19:45:43 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95359MsBusyFingers14<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Sarah Margaret Crittenden</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I made this simple little shawl after looking at the Dragonfly Shawl and being too lazy to do that one!</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>G hook</p>
<p>fingering weight or sock yarn - at least one skein, but if you want to make it bigger, you will need more yarn</p>
<p>yarn needle</p>
<p>pins and a surface for blocking - I used large push pins and did it on my wooden deck</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
<p>it&#39;s up to you!</p>
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>not important</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>This pattern is written by a lazy person, so your going to have to use your noggin to work it out. It is more of a sketch than an all out pattern. Good luck! I know you can do it! (I am also a very friendly person who is more than willing to answer questions and help you along.)</p>
<p>&nbsp;If you would like to buy the full version of this pattern - complete with charts!&nbsp; I changed the name to Shawlette de Veronique and it is available in my Ravelry store <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sarah-margaret-crittenden">http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shawlette-de-veronique</a></p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>
<div><span style="font-size:x-small;"></span></div>
</p>
<p><span style="font-size:x-small;">
<p>Logwood Shawlette</p>
<p>abbreviations : </p>
<p>ch = chain</p>
<p>ch 2 sp = chain 2 space</p>
<p>slst = slip stitch</p>
<p>dc = double crochet</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>special stitches :</p>
<p>Shell = 2dc, ch3, 2dc</p>
<p>v = 1dc, ch1, 1dc</p>
<p>V = 1dc, ch3, 1dc</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>To begin :</p>
<p>ch 6, join in a circle with a slst,</p>
<p>ch 5, (dc in ring, ch 2) x 5</p>
<p>For the rest of the shawl :</p>
<p>start each row with the following : ch 5, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch 3</p>
<p>end each row with the following : ch 3, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, dc in same ch 2 sp</p>
<p>the very middle of each row will always be a Shell</p>
<p>the main idea for this shawl is based on repeating a 5 row pattern of increase : </p>
<p>1. V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V</p>
<p>2. v in ch 3 sp, V in V, v in ch 3 sp, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3, v in ch 3 sp, V in V</p>
<p>3. v in v, ch 1, V in V, ch 1, v in v, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3 v, ch 1, V, ch 1, v</p>
<p>4. v, ch 2, V, ch2, v, ch 3, shell, ch 3, v, ch 2, V, ch 2, v</p>
<p>5. V, ch3, shell, ch 3, V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V, ch 3, shell, ch 3, V</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
</span>continue on repeating this pattern and you will end up with a very ruffly shawl</p>
<p>I didn&#39;t want it to be so ruffly, so I started doing treble crochet instead of double after a while</p>
<p>
<p>block it out with pins to open up the lace and achieve the best drape</p>
<p>Here is a picture of the shawl before blocking</p>
</p>
<p>
<p><img border="0" width="500" src="http://www.crochetme.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3846106734_5F00_11a7e9f1c5.jpg" height="375" alt="" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
</p>
<div id="CCCopyright">
<div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img border="0" src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" alt="" /></a></div>
The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>
Yikes Stripes Caphttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95336.aspxSat, 29 Aug 2009 05:40:30 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95336MidknightStarr0<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Jennifer Christensen</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I originally made this for my daughter, but had many people ask me about it and the pattern, so I wrote it down and first put it up on Ravely and desided it was time to shre it here :)</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>Tahki Cotton Classic in 2 colours (Colours A &amp; B)<br />
Sm- 2.50mm or as needed for gauge<br />
Med- 3.25mm or as needed for gauge</p>
<p>Lg- 3.75mm hook or as needed for gauge</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
<p>I don&#39;t have actual measurements, but the Small should fit a child and the medium should fit a small adult and the large shout fit an average size adult.
The medium size is shown in the photo.</p>
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Sm = 7dc per inch<br />
Med = 6dc per inch</p>
<p>Lg = 5 dc per inch</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>If a larger size is still needed just adjust hook size up.</p>
<p>
abbreviations:<br />
ch = chain<br />
slp st = slip stitch<br />
sc = single crochet<br />
dc = double crochet<br />
st(s) = stitch(s)</p>
<p>sk = skip</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>Instructions: </p>
<p>
(NOTE: the beginning ch 3 of every round always counts as the first stitch,</p>
<p>Rnds 1-9, Do not turn at the end of the rnds)</p>
<p>
Top of cap:</p>
<p>With A, Ch 4, join in 4th ch from the hook to form chain loop</p>
<p>Rnd 1- (right side) ch 3, dc 12 times into the chain loop, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (13 stitches),</p>
<p>Rnd 2- Change to B , ch 3, dc into same st, [2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (26 stitches)</p>
<p>Rnd 3- Change to A , ch 3, 2 dc in next st, [dc into next st, 2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (39 stitches)</p>
<p>
Rnd 4- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, </p>
<p>[dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc into the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (52 stitches)</p>
<p>
Rnd 5- Change to A, ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, </p>
<p>[dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (65 stitches), </p>
<p>
Rnd 6- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st, </p>
<p>[dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (78 stitches), </p>
<p>
Rnd 7- Change to A, ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st,</p>
<p> [dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (91 stitches)</p>
<p>
Rnd 8- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st, </p>
<p>[dc in the next 6 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (104 stitches)</p>
<p>
Rnd 9- Change to A, ch 3 dc in the next 14 dc, 2 dc in the next st,<br />
[dc in the next 15 sts, 2 dc in the next st] around until the last 8 sts, dc in the next 7 sts, 2 dc in the last st, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (110 stitches)<br />
Side of cap:<br />
Rnd 10- (right side) Change to B, ch 3, 4 dc into the same st, sk next 4 sts,</p>
<p>[5 dc shell in the next st, sk next 4] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (22 shells)</p>
<p>Rnd 11- Change to A, ch 1, turn, sc into front loop of each st around, join with slp st into the 1st sc. (110 sc)</p>
<p>
Rnd 12- Change to B, turn, (Note: shell is worked over the sc row into the back loop of the middle DC of previous shell) slp st into next 3 sts, ch 3, 4 dc into same st, sk 4 sts,</p>
<p>[5 dc shell in the next st, sk next 4] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (22 shells)</p>
<p>Rnds 13-20- repeat Rnds 11 &amp; 12</p>
<p>Rnd 21- repeat Rnd 11 once more</p>
<p>
Rnd 22- (do not change colour here) ch 2, turn, [sk next sc, dc into next sc, dc into skipped sc, X-stitch made], continue in X-stitch in each st around, join with slp st into the 1st dc of the 1st X-stitch, skipping over the beginning ch 2. </p>
<p>(55 X-stitches or 110 dc)</p>
<p>Rnd 23- ch 1, do not turn, [sc in dc, ch 2, slp st into side of sc, picot made, sc into next dc] around, sc in the last st, join with slp st in 1st sc, (55 picots, 55 sc) finish off, weave in all ends.</p>
<div id="CCCopyright">
<div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>
The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>
Alpha Magic Afghanhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95334.aspxFri, 21 Aug 2009 21:57:32 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95334AnimatorsWife2<h2>Author</h2>
<p>CrochetKitten.com</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>At first glance, it looks like an ordinary baby blanket, but take a second look and the alphabet magically appears! Pattern originally appeared in HAIN&#39;s 2009 Spring Newsletter.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
MC: 775 yd 3/sport-weight yarn<br />
CC: 150 yd 3/sport-weight yarn<p>Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
28” wide by 36” long.
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Not necessary.</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>Special Stitch 1: Front Puff Popcorn. 3 dc in indicated stitch, carefully drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back through first dc in group, pull dropped loop through first dc. Front Puff Popcorn complete. Counts as 1 stitch.</p>
<p>Special Stitch 2: Back Puff Popcorn. 3 dc in indicated stitch, carefully drop loop from hook, insert hook from back to front through first dc in group, pull dropped loop through first dc. Back Puff Popcorn complete. Counts as 1 stitch.</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>http://crochetkitten.com/files/Alpha_Magic_Afghan.pdf</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Lipstick Cozyhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95311.aspxFri, 03 Jul 2009 10:46:37 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95311HeldaP@20<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Helda Panagary</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I hate throwing away those little bits of yarn, so much so I store them in a box marked scraps. I&#39;m convinced they will come in handy .This pattern is designed to use those scraps. Use any sized hook and any leftover yarns.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>5 -10 grams of yarn, I used scraps from Hazelknits, use whatever you have .</p>
<p>2mm crochet hook, this size hook ensures you have a snug fit ,you dont want it to slip off when tossed into you bag.</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
7.5 cms/3 inches
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>N/A</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>Please note ; cozy should be stiff tight stitches this will ensure that the cozy does not slip off in the black hole of your handbag.</p>
<p>Use uk stitches</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>This project satisfies the urge to crochet and it also gives a sense of satisfaction that comes with completed items .Make a few for those moments you need to give gift to friends,family a great way to say thank you.</p>
<p>http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/07/lipstick-cozy.html</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Baby Dress, cute chevron skirthttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95308.aspxThu, 02 Jul 2009 16:01:58 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95308RuthD@212<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Ruth del Valle</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I was wondering a nice baby dress but very easy to do. I thought “I do not know any baby!!”), when it was done, I show it to my son and DIL. She found it so cute, and told me to sell it to her, as she has a friend with a newborn baby girl. Sell it to her?, No, no I told her to buy a variegated skein and I repeat the pattern, following now the instructions, but if you do not understand something please ask it to me. Remember my English is not that well!. </p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
Newborn-3 months<br />
2 oz lilac baby yarn (60 gr)<br />
3 oz variegated baby yarn (100 gr)<br />
Hooks : D/3 (3.25mm) for bodice,G/6 ( 4.5) for skirt<br />
Tapestry needle<br />
3 baby buttons<p>3 baby ribbon flowers</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
8&quot; (20cm) width
13&quot; long (33 cm.)
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Gauge: 7 dc 1” (2.5 cm) 4 rows 1” (2.5 cm) for bodice</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>I use plain color yarn for bodice and variegated one at the skirt, it looks much nicer.</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
Bodice:<br />
Row 1: ch 71 , dc in 4th ch from hook, and each 6 chs (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, dc in next 16 chs) 3 times, 2 dc, ch 1 , 2 dc in next ch, dc , 7 dc in next chs. Ch 3, turn.<br />
Row 2 : dc in next dcs, [2 dc, 1 ch 2 dc, in next ch 1 sp, dc in next dc (18) ] 3 times, dc in next dc.<br />
Row 3-6, repeat row 2<br />
Row 7, now working in rounds, ch 1 for turn [sc until first ch 1 sp, ch 2 , sc in next ch 1 (for armhole)] 2 times, sc until 2 sc before ending, overlap the bodice and work 2 sc in the last 2 sts with the first sts. (for button space)<br />
Row 8-10 : sc in every st, including ch 2 for armhole, do not join<p>Attach variegated yarn with sl st and change to a bigger hook.</p>
Row 1 sl st with variegated yarn,( sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, ch 11, skip next st, join ch with sc to next st, sc next st), to the end.<br />
Row 2: (working in rounds) sl st in first 2 sc, 5 sc in ch 11, 3 sc in the next ch, sk 2 sc work 5 sc in first 5 ch, 3 sc in next ch, 5 sc in the next chs, sk 2 sc , around. From now on BLO<br />
Row 3-…:(working in rounds, (5 sc in 5 sc sts, , 3 sc next sc, 5 sc next sts, sk 2 sc ) . Remember to work in back loops only.<br />
When 3-4 rows are done, with tapestry needle sew the holes formed with the ch 11 base chs and the sk stitch, with mattress st.<br />
Continue working in rounds until you reach the long of the skirt that you want.<br />
For armholes, (crochet 3 sl st next st) all around.<br />
You will see a chevron like st.<p>Sew baby buttons (the dc will be your buttonholes) and 3 baby ribbon flowers in front, for a nicer work. I do not add a satin ribbon, as we don’t like too many things in a baby dress.</p>
Enjoy <br />
Sorry I cannot understand yet how you can post more than 1 pic<p>But you can go to Flickr by Honeyvarita</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Daisy Daisyhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95239.aspxSat, 16 May 2009 09:03:43 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95239SueB@774<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Sue B. Balcom</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>It&#39;s spring, and what better way to take in those fresh mornings than with a blooming pair of fingerless gloves. This experiment with pattern design began with a circle of daisy motifs, followed by two rows of daisy pattern and then a modified lace.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>
1 skein each of three colors Elann.com superwash worsted</p>
<p>
Real wool, like the Highland brand can be substituted, but I wanted these to be washable in the event the children of my family decide they like them and they disappear. </p>
<p>
The colors were: </p>
<p>
Gold </p>
<p>
White </p>
<p>
Celery </p>
<p>
Size E – 3.50 mm hook </p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
Gloves fit a small to medium and are about 8-inches long and 7.5 inches around.
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>
Daisy motif is 1.25 inches.</p>
<p>
Lace pattern repeat of 3 rows deep and 6 stitches is also 1.25 inches.</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>
<span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Cambria;">Most of my life, I have been crocheting like my grandmother, by the seat of my pants. If it works, I do it. If I think a pattern would be better suited to my way of thinking, I do it. So, if anything here appears unclear, email me and I would be happy to talk you through it. </span></p>
<p>
<span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Cambria;">Like most good ideas, this glove pattern was seeded by a couple of great ideas that have flashed by my face lately. I thought they turned out okay, but I will be tweaking on the pattern as time allows… something I have very little of these days</span> </p>
<p>
<strong>Single crochet –</strong> sc </p>
<p>
<strong>Double crochet –</strong> dc </p>
<p>
<strong>3-dc cluster:</strong> (Yarn over draw through loop, yarn over draw through 2 loops) three times in same stitch, yarn over draw through all loops, chain 1. 5-dc cluster: Same as 3-dc cluster only repeat five times and draw thread through six loops on the hook. Chain 1. </p>
<p>
<strong>Daisy Stitch –</strong> This stitch is always worked on the right side only so it’s perfect for rounds. Skip first chain, draw a loop through each of the next 4 chains, wrap yarn around hook, draw through all five loops, chain 1 *insert hook through eye made by chain 1 (center of previous daisy) draw loop through chain of last daisy, draw through next 2 chain, wrap yarn around hook and draw through all 5 loops. Chain 1. </p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>
<strong>Daisy Center:</strong> With gold, use open loop and work 7 single crochet (sc) in the loop, slip stitch (sl) to first sc and close loop gently. Fasten off. </p>
<p>
Yep, that’s correct. You can go ahead and make eight of these right off the bat. - four centers for each glove. </p>
<p>
<strong>Petals:</strong> Connect white wool to any sc and chain three (counts as first dc). Do a 3-dc cluster. Chain 3, slip stitch into base of cluster – one flower petal. Slip stitch to the next sc – repeat petal pattern in each sc for a total of 7 petals. End. </p>
<p>
<strong>DAISY CHAIN -</strong> Connect the four blossoms as you crochet each one to form a complete circle. Because there are 7 petals, alternate the connections so you have a sequence of two petals, three petals, two petals and three petals. (See photo). </p>
<p>
<strong>CUFF:</strong> </p>
<p>
Row 1. Using Celery, connect to space between petals with a double crochet, (OR CHAIN THREE DEPENDING ON HOW YOU CONNECT YOUR GRANNY SQUARES.) for a 3-dc cluster; chain 3, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in the top of the next petal; chain 3, cluster between flowers, chain 3, sc in top of next petal, repeat… keeping in mind you will have two petals and then three petals with two chains between them and three chains before and after clusters. End with slipstitch to top of first cluster. </p>
<p>
Row 2: Single crochet around like this -- chain 1, sc in top of cluster, 3 sc over chain 3 space, 2 sc over chain 2 space, sc in top of cluster. Repeat to end. Slipstitch to top of cluster; 51 stitches. </p>
<p>
Row 3: Picot row. Chain 3, skip one stitch, sc, chain three, repeat around for a total of 24 loops. Fasten off. If you are making a cuff, repeat for other side of daisy chain, fasten off, and hide ends. </p>
<p>
NOTE: It would look really cool to add a bead at the top of each cluster. HOWEVER, if you wish to make a fingerless glove…. Continue… This is slightly different than the other side so pay attention. </p>
<p>
Row 1: With Celery wool, connect to space between flowers with a double crochet, make four more dc in space for a five-dc cluster. Chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, 5-dc cluster in space between flowers, repeat. Slip stitch to top of cluster at the end of the row. </p>
<p>
Row 2: Slipstitch into chain 2 space. Chain three (counts as one dc), double crochet in same space. Two dc in each chain 2 space 12 more times, four dc in last chain 2 space; 30 stitches. Just to make it challenging the row below the glove hand will have 5-dc clusters between the flowers and chain 2 spaces between clusters and petals. </p>
<p>
Chain 3, begin daisy stitch by drawing up loops in each of next 4 stitches, draw thread through five loops, chain 1 – draw up loop in eye of this first stitch and then in last stitch of previous daisy, and next two stitches, draw thread through chain 1 repeat for a total of two rows. Slipstitch to top of daisy to end row. </p>
<p>
Increase row – Chain 1, sc in space, sc in next space, two sc in next space (inc.); repeat sc, sc, inc.; repeat – 40 stitches. Slip stitch into first sc, chain </p>
<p>
<strong>Lace Pattern:</strong> </p>
<p>
Row 1: Chain 3, dc in next 2 stitches; chain 3, skip two stitches, sc in next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches,* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Row 2: Chain 3, dc in top of next two dc *chain1, sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, sc in chain 3 space, ch1, 3 dc over top of 3 dc* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Row 3: Chain 3, dc in top of next two stitches, *3 dc in chain 3 space, 3 dc in next three stitches*, repeat between * slip stitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Row 4: Repeat row 1 lace pattern. </p>
<p>
Row 5: Repeat row 2 lace pattern. </p>
<p>
Row 6: Repeat row 3 lace pattern. </p>
<p>
Row 7: repeat row 1 lace pattern. </p>
<p>
Row 8: repeat row 2 lace pattern. </p>
<p>
Row 9: (left hand) Repeat row 3 of pattern to the last 9 stitches. Crochet 6 dc instead of three in chain 3 space. 1 dc, 2 dc in one stitch, 1 dc over the previous row dc, 6 dc in next chain 3 space. Join with slipstitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Row 9: (right hand) Begin the pattern row with the first three dc on top of previous dc, then the increases, then continue in pattern, slip stitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Thumb gusset: (left hand) Work row 1 of lace pattern until first 6 dc inc.; attach chain 3 to third dc, chain 3, sc in fourth dc of next 6dc inc.; skipping the dc, 2 dc, dc set of stitches. Chain 3, continue with pattern. </p>
<p>
Thumb gusset: (right hand) Chain 3, dc in next two stitches, chain 3, sc in third dc in 6 dc increase; chain 3, skip next dc, 2 dc, dc inc., sc in fourth dc of 6 dc increase, continue in pattern until end of row, slipstitch to third chain. </p>
<p>
Repeat row 2 and 3 of lace pattern adding 3dc over thumb chain space. Fasten off. </p>
<p>
I used a little white to sc around the edges just for fun… enjoy. </p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Simple crochet shawlhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95128.aspxThu, 19 Mar 2009 00:26:07 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95128HeldaP@218<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Heldasland</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>The beauty of this pattern is that is made for showcasing those beautiful multicoloured yarns we all love .Quite possibly the easiest pattern you&#39;ll ever do. Great fun.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
You decide what yarn you will use and the size of the hook<br />
.This is what I used;<br />
3 x 50g skeins of jawoll colour<p>3.5mm crochet hook</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
This all depends on the yarn you decide to use
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Not needed,</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>all stitches are uk crochet</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/03/free-simple-shawl-pattern.html</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>A Scarf That Rockshttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95124.aspxMon, 16 Mar 2009 20:00:54 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95124ChristieP@24<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Christie Pruitt</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>This scarf is so much fun to make! And the colors will keep you going and going....</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
1 skein Socks That Rock, medium weight sock yarn, approx. 380 yards - available at: http://www.bluemoonfiberarts.com<br />
(my color is Fire On The Mountain - and I still had about a quarter of the skein left)<p>Size &quot;H&quot; Crochet hook</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
My scarf measured 6&quot; wide x 48&quot; long after blocking.
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Not essential to this project! Yay!</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>This pattern is very easy, but the one thing I had trouble with was keeping my lace loops a consistent size. Pull up the loop to about 1&quot; in height (or desired height) and hold it with your finger while making the next stitch. It will hold the loop in place and keep your loop sizes more even.</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
Lace Pattern (multiple of 5 sts + 1)<p>Row 1 (right side) Dc in 4th chain from hook, *sc in next ch, draw up loop on hook to 1&quot;, sk next 3 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, rep from * to last 2 chs, sk next ch, sc in last ch, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row throughout), turn.</p>
<p>Row 2: Dc in next dc, *sc in next ch 1 sp, draw up loop on hook to 1&quot;, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sk next dc, sc in top of turning chain, ch 3, turn.</p>
<p>Rep Row 2 for pattern.</p>
Scarf<p>Ch 26 (more or less depending on desired width. The loops will stretch after blocking to make the scarf a bit wider when finished.)</p>
<p>Work Lace Pattern until scarf is desired length. Fasten off.</p>
<p>Wet block to allow the lace loops to lay flat and stretch out. Blocking was a bit of a challenge - I only had seamstress pins to pin the scarf down with. If you have lace blocking wires those would work awesome for this and would allow for a more consistent width.</p>
Variations:<p>Try chaining 95 (+1) and work the scarf length-wise. The lace loops will hang vertically for a different look.</p>
<p>This scarf would look just as lovely in a solid yarn!</p>
<p>Also try working this scarf in a lightweight cotton yarn for a light, spring scarf!</p>
<p>More Pics: </p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3361236082/" title="rockclose by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3361236082_5F00_51e8b3aa97.jpg" width="500" height="371" alt="rockclose" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3361235970/" title="rock2 by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3361235970_5F00_c61ccdf214.jpg" width="225" height="500" alt="rock2" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3361235910/" title="rock1 by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3361235910_5F00_a2019127d8.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="rock1" /></a></p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Ruffled Spring Cowlhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95113.aspxWed, 11 Mar 2009 13:50:45 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95113ChristieP@21<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Christie Pruitt</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I wanted something frilly and girly - and definitely Spring-like! I stitched this up rather quickly - in a couple of hours - and used less than 230 yards! If you have more yardage to give, you can make all the ruffles long and even more frilly than mine! :)</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 309 (Shell) - Color A<br />
1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 312, Mystery Color I call Plum - Color B<br />
OR any DK weight, mercerized cotton<br />
Crochet hook size &quot;I&quot;<br />
2 buttons (or a Dritz Fabric Button Kit + coordinating fabric)<br />
Sewing needle and thread<p>Yarn needle for weaving in ends</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
7 ½&quot; tall at tallest point (counting ruffles) x 18&quot; long (will stretch slightly - but is designed to fit snugly.)
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>4 dc = 1&quot;</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3346292249/" title="cowl2 by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3346292249_5F00_f66b3ab1aa.jpg" width="500" height="301" alt="cowl2" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3347128576/" title="cowl3 by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3347128576_5F00_d29aee09ea.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="cowl3" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24293885@N03/3347128618/" title="cowlflat by mandcpruitt, on Flickr"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/3347128618_5F00_2db7fc49ce.jpg" width="500" height="201" alt="cowlflat" /></a></p>
With Color A, ch 62<p>Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in next 3 chains, dc across to last 4 chains, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Repeat this row 2 more times.</p>
<p>Row 4: sc in first sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, (buttonhole made), dc across to last 4 sc, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dc across to 1st sc, sc in this sc, 1 sc in next 2 chains, sc in last sc. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Rows 6 &amp; 7: Repeat Row 1</p>
<p>Row 8: Repeat Row 4</p>
<p>Rows 9 &amp; 10: Repeat Row 1</p>
<p>Fasten off.</p>
<p>Now turn the piece upside down so that you are ready to work into the dc&#39;s from Row 1. With Color B, attach yarn around post of 1st dc. </p>
First Ruffle (or bottom edge ruffle)<p>Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)</p>
<p>Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 7 dc into chain 3 space, * 8 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.</p>
Second Ruffle<p>Skip next row of dc and work second ruffle into next dc row - or 3rd dc row from the top. Skip first 2 dc&#39;s of this row, and attach yarn around post of 3rd dc.</p>
<p>Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (12 chain 4 spaces)</p>
<p>Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 5 dc into chain 3 space, * 6 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.</p>
Third Ruffle<p>Skip next dc row and work third ruffle into next dc row - or 5th dc row from the top. Attach yarn around post of 1st dc of this row.</p>
<p>Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)</p>
<p>Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.</p>
<p>Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 3 dc into chain 3 space, * 4 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.</p>
Fourth Ruffle<p>Skip next dc row and work fourth ruffle into next dc row - or 7th row of dc from the top. Attach yarn around post of 3rd dc of this row.</p>
<p>Repeat instructions for Third Ruffle, keeping in mind you will have 12 chain 4 spaces instead of 13.</p>
Finishing<p>Weave in ends. Fold the piece so that the buttonhole edge lines up with the opposite edge and using the buttonholes as a guide, place your buttons. (I didn&#39;t have any buttons in my stash that matched good enough - so I made mine using the Dritz Fabric Button Kit and some coordinating fabric I found in my stash.)</p>
<p>Steam or Wet Block your cowl, if desired.</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Rose Broochhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95044.aspxWed, 11 Feb 2009 20:49:50 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95044Nezumi154<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Michelle Ryan (aka NezumiWorld)</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>Quick and easy rose brooch </p>
<p>has only 2 rows</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>Double knit/ light worsted weight yarn used in choosen rose colour<br />
3.75 mm (5 / F) hook</p>
<p>Brooch back</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
<p>Small Rose sized</p>
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>Gauge will depend on the materials you use, it a small brooch so experiment.</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>Abbreviations:</p>
<p>
St &ndash; Stitch<br />
Sts &ndash; Stitches<br />
dc (UK)/ sc (USA) &ndash; Double Crochet (UK)/ Single Crochet (USA)<br />
tr(UK)/ dc (USA) &ndash; Treble Crochet (UK)/ Double Crochet (USA)</p>
<p>Ch &ndash; Chain</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p><b>PATTERN LINK IS BELOW</b> <b>- FOLLOW THE LINK FOR FULL INSTRUCTIONS WITH PHOTOS</b></p>
<p><a href="http://nezumiworld.blogspot.com/2009/02/rose-brooch.html"><b>http://nezumiworld.blogspot.com/2009/02/rose-brooch.html </b><br /></a></p>
<div id="CCCopyright">
<div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>
The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>
Bobble Headhttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/95023.aspxThu, 05 Feb 2009 20:18:50 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:95023Token8<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Natalie Brock</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>This pattern grew out of a need to keep my head warm. I couldn&#39;t fit my hair into a hat when it&#39;s tied up so I designed a hat with a hole in. Now I&#39;m always nice and toastie!</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
<p>Any DK yarn, approx 70m of each colour.<br />Yarn needle to weave in ends</p>
<p>4mm crochet hook</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
<p>22cm diameter at smallest end, 27cm diameter at larger end. 13cm wide.</p>
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>5hdc = 2cm</p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>This pattern is written in US crochet terms</p>
<p>Special stitches:</p>
<p>PC = Popcorn stitch: 5 dc in next st, extend loop and remove hook. insert hook into front of first dc, pick up loop from last dc and draw through, ch1 to close top of popcorn,</p>
<p>VS = V stitch: dc in next st, ch 1, dc in same st.</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
<p>With A Ch 73 sl st into first chain to join<br />Row 1: Ch 2 hdc in each chain around. Sl st to join (73 hdc)<br />Row 2: Ch 2 (2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 23hdc) 3 times hdc in last hdc sl st to join (76 hdc)<br />Row 3: Attach B Ch 1, sc in next hdc (PC in next hdc, sc in each of next 2 hdc) repeat around until 2 hdc remain. PC in next hdc, sc in last hdc sl st to join.<br />Row 4: Attach C Ch 2, hdc in next sc, (hdc in top of pc [where ch1 was made in previous row] hdc in each of next 2 sc) repeat around until 1 sc remains.hdc in last sc sl st to join.<br />Row 5: Pick up A Ch 3 sk 1 hdc (VS in next hdc, sk 2 hdc) repeat around dc in last hdc, ch1, sl st to ch 3 at begining of row.<br />Row 6: Pick up B Ch 2 (hdc in 1st dc of VS, hdc in ch1 sp, hdc in last 2nd dc of vs) repeat around, sl st to join.<br />Row 7: Repeat row 3 using C<br />Row 8: Repeat row 4 using A<br />Row 9: Repeat row 5 using B<br />Row 10: Repeat row 6 using C</p>
<p>Rows 11 to 18: Repeat rows 3 to 10 alternating colours until row 18 - use A to finish</p>
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n273/TokensPics/?action=view&amp;current=DSCF7418.jpg"><img src="/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.SiteFiles/Pattern+Content/DSCF7418.jpg" alt="Photobucket" border="0" /></a></p>
<div id="CCCopyright">
<div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" border="0" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" alt="" /></a></div>
The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>
Twice Crochet Beaded Bracelethttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/94980.aspxWed, 14 Jan 2009 10:58:40 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:94980craftyspider2<h2>Author</h2>
<p>Natalia Capel</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>This is a little wrist warmer I made although it looks great as a chunky cold weather bracelet. It&#39;s beginners although it can get fiddly. I work in Australian terminilogy which is largely like that of the U.K. so a double crochet is a single US and a treble crochet is a double US. I will try to put both in but if I miss one out I will be using the UK terminology and the US in curly {} brackets.</p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
Gold Embroidery Thread - about 8 meters<br />
200 x 4mm (6 per inch) seed beads of various matching colours<br />
Sewing and Knitting needles<br />
Marino Supreme Checkheaton - light weight [3] about 20gms<br />
Size 3.00mm crochet needle - Size 0 US - Europe C2 - 00 UK<p>Size 6.00mm crochet needle - Size J/10 US and Europe - 4 UK</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
25cm circumference for the bracelet
8cm diameter for the flower
<h2>Gauge</h2>
Bracelet - 3 treble crochet (double crochet) per inch<p>Bead string - 10 chains per inch including the chains containing beads </p>
<h2>Notes</h2>
The beaded chain works best if the tension is varied so as to give a slight random sizing between beads. You will find it easier to string beads onto the length of the embroidery thread and bring a few up near your work at a time. You will need to gently stretch your yarn every so often to tighten the beads into place. That&#39;s what worked for me but I tend to crochet more European style so it&#39;s up to you. <p>Note you are in effect creating your own yarn which you will use in conjunction with the wool to crochet the flower.</p>
<p>Tip. Avoid having to unravel your flower at any point. The beaded yarn will tend to get caught up on itself. It will take some patience to get it untangled.</p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
For the beaded yarn. Use size 3.00mm (0) hook <p>Ch 2, bring a bead close to the last chain and ch over the bead. Ch 3, ch 1 with bead. Cont ch 3, ch1 with bead until yarn measures 2.1 meters. See picture below.</p>
<p>For flower. Use size 6.00mm (J) hook. You must crochet using the wool and your bead yarn at the same time.</p>
<p>Ch 4, ch in the first ch to form a circle. * Ch 5, ch 1 in center of circle. * Rep from * 6 times. Fasten off. Leave some wool for sewing remaining beaded yarn onto the bracelet. Finish by sewing the remaining beaded yarn into the center of the flower by using the wool. Leave some wool underneath to attach the flower to the bracelet.</p>
<p>For the bracelet. </p>
<p>Ch 23, * ch2, tr 1 {dc 1} in second ch from the edge, tr 21 {dc 22}*. Repeat from * to * for 5 rows. Fasten off leaving enough wool to join the two shortest ends together. </p>
<p>Sew the ends together as described above. Attach the beaded flower over the sewn edge taking care to cover all of the seam. Stretch the flower if necessary. Ensure each petal of the flower is separately anchored or it will flap about.</p>
<p><img border="0" src="http://www.couturebynatalia.com/crochetmeband.jpg" width="449" height="249" alt="" /></p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Site-Wide Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>Hearts Framehttp://www.crochetme.com/media/p/94908.aspxFri, 28 Nov 2008 14:26:59 GMTa67ddc32-88dd-4d96-a48b-678eefde7757:94908federicaknits0<h2>Author</h2>
<p>federicaknits</p>
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>Keep warm your photo frame! </p>
<p>The crochet photo frame I have designed will keep warm the putto angel my friend Ursula kindly drew for my wedding&#39;s invitations. I though the putto angel was cold in this silver frame and he also missed the heart to hit with his bring-love arrow! </p>
<h2>Materials List</h2>
Frame size: 20x24 cm with a border of 4 cm.<br />
Yarn: leftoverss orange and white Cervinia Caprice [100% acrylic; 50g / 1 OZ ¾ - 145.45<br />
Materials: tapestry needle, scissors, silver lurex yarn<p>Hook: US size G/6 – 4 mm</p>
<h2>Finished Size</h2>
20x24 cm with a border of 4 cm
<h2>Gauge</h2>
<p>you do not need a gauge for this project. </p>
<h2>The Pattern</h2>
Frame<br />
Ch156 (the number of ch is calculated on the interior side of the frame border in my case it is 12x17 cm), sl st in first ch to form a rnd shape – take care not to twist the ch!<br />
Rnd 1: ch4 *dc3, dc3tog* end with a sl st in the first dc (that is the 4 ch you have made at the beginning of the rnd)<br />
Rnd 2: ch3, dc2 in next st, *ch4, sk 3 st, sc*<br />
Rnd 3: *ch8, dc2 on the first dc of the previous rnd, dc1, dc2 on the next st*.<br />
Rnd 4: ch7, sc1 in the middle of the 8 ch of the previous rnd, *ch4, dc2, sc1, dc2*.<p>Rnd 5: ch3, dc2 on the sc of the revious rnd, *ch3, sc1 on the next dc of the previous rnd, ch4,sk st, sc1*, close with a sl st.</p>
Heart<br />
Ch2<br />
Rnd 1: c1, sc2<br />
Rnd 2: c1 sc3 - inc 1 st every rnd until rnd 9. From rnd 10 to rnd 11 you will be crocheting just one side of the top of the heart at a time.<br />
Rnd 10: sk st, sc4 turn (you will complete the left top part of the heart after having closed the right part).<br />
Rnd11: sk, sc3<br />
Fasten off.<p>Repeat rnd 10 and 11 on the other side of the heart.</p>
<p>Sl using white yarn interwowen with silver lurex all aroung the heart.</p>
<p>Finishing: Weave in yarn ends. Sew the heart in a corner of the frame.</p>
<div id="CCCopyright"><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/"><img src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gif" title="Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 License" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>The author has licensed this page under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/">Creative Commons License</a>. Some rights reserved.</div>