1. a one quart metal paint can with lid unused. Can be purchased at any auto parts store that mixes paint.

2. isopropyl alcohol at least 2 pints worth.

3. Toilet paper (I bet Albert is getting excited at another use for his supply).

4. plastic funnel large enough so you can fit a quart paint can upside down in.

5. book of matches

6. a quarter

directions

1. take the cardboard inner liner out. Save it for making fire starters.

2. squeeze the roll of TP till you can put it in the quart paint can. Leave the center hole so that it faces up.

3. fill the center hole with more toilet paper from another roll.

4. pour one pint of the alcohol into the paint can. the first pint should fit in and get soaked up very fast.

5. start pouring the second pint in until the alcohol is at the top of the can. Let it set for 4 or 5 minutes then add some more. After it has soaked up all it can turn the can upside down into the funnel. Let it drain back into the first alcohol bottle.

6. seal the paint can with the lid

7. tape the book of matches and the quarter to the top of the paint can

Instructions for use.

Pop the top open with the quarter. Light with the matches and you have a nice little heater or stove. You can use the lid of the can to control the flame. You can get up to 12 hours of use if you keep the flame very low. They will store for about a year before going bad. I make up some at the start of winter then just discard them in the spring. They work very well for emergency heat in a car.

OK now for the disclaimer. If you are a complete idiot and start your house, dog, cat, car, or self on fire the author is not responsible.

I make logs, for my woodstove, out of newspaper. I purchased a newspaper rolling machine from Lehmans.

I made a few mods to the machine and the process.

First I added a rolling pin to the top of the shaft with two small bungies.

This allows for one person to operate the machine and keep tension while adding sheets.

I field strip the newspaper down to separated sheets and remove the coated stock inserts. I start with single sheets. They're easier to work with as opposed to double folded sheets. I crank each sheet in, leaving about 4-6" of the end exposed. I then underlap the next sheet.

THE AMAZING $500 WOOD-BURNING STOVE ... THAT YOU CAN BUILD FOR $35 (OR LESS!)

Most homebuilt wood-burning stoves are scabbed together from old 55-gallon drums. And they more or less do the job they're supposed to do ... despite the fact that they're notoriously inefficient users of fuel, are difficult to regulate, rapidly burn through, and are so ugly that most people will only tolerate them out in the garage or workshop.

There's no shortage of oldelectric water heaters in most of this country's landfills and dumps. MOTHER staffer Clarence Goosen contemplates all the groovy woodburners he'll be able to make from one morning's haul of junked water heater tanks. The sparks fly as Robert Smyers converts an old water heater into a stove. Drawing shows general details of "water heater tank to wood-burning stove" conversion.

Perhaps the single really good thing that can be said for the majority of the 55-gallon-drum burners is that (usually) it doesn't cost very much to put one of them together or at least it didn't used to. Here lately, though, the steel barrels have become increasingly difficult to find ... and, when you do locate one of the containers, it frequently has a seven dollar price tag at fixed to it.

There must be a better way to go about assembling a homemade wood-burning stove. And there is' As MOTHER was recently shown by Wilton, Iowa's Robert Wars (who, incidentally, just happens to be the brother of MOTHER researcher Emerson Smyers).

"Forget about messing around with old 55-gallon drums," Bob told us. "What you want to build your stove out of is a discarded electric water heater tank ... for at least four good reasons:

"In the first place, the walls of such a tank are a minimum of three to four times as thick as the metal in a 55-gallon barrel ... which means that a water heater drum will make a much tougher stove that will last a lot longer.

"Second, when you build a firebox from a junked water heater tank, it's very easy to make the stove as airtight and efficient as any $500 woodburner on the market. And I can't say that about any 55-gallon-drum stove I've ever seen.

One of many variations of Bob Smyers's basic design ... and (in smaller box) one of the "cutest" water tank stoves that MOTHER's experimenters have made. Dennis Burkholder also demonstrates that the large, flat, warp-proof filler lid on his heater tank stove can be wed as a near-ideal cooking surface too. This feature, alone, makes the wood-burner a good "standby" to have on hand for any family that might experience utility service disruptions.

"Third, if you construct your heater the way I tell you to, it'll be easy to load, it will have excellent fire and temperature control, and it'll look classy enough to put on display right in the living room.

"And fourth, you can build one of my 'water heater' stoves for even less than most folks now spend putting together a 55gallon-barrel wood-burner. As a matter of fact, I scrounged up everything that went into mine. Which means that the stove cost me only the labor—one good long day—that I used building it."

Well, now. Those were pretty big claims. Especially since we were listening to them while looking at some photographs of a flat-out good-looking stove. So, in our best and most devious "backwoods of North Carolina" fashion, we challenged ole Bob to prove everything he'd just told us.

And then—just to put him at as large a cost disadvantage as we could—we spit a couple of times, looked at Smyers out of the corner of our eye, and innocently said, "Of course you know, Bob, that a lot of our readers have trouble scavenging up project materials the way you do. So, other than letting you recycle an old water heater tank, we'll just have to make you buy and pay new prices for everything else that goes into any stove you build for us."

"Oh, of course!" Bob answered. And it wasn't so much what he said as the way he said it which told us right then and there that we were the ones who'd been had. Shucks. This Iowa slicker knew from the beginning that he could build a $500 stove and never use more'n $35 worth of materials doing it.

THE SECRET OF THE SMYERS STOVE'S LOW COST

As Bob Smyers drafted his brother, Emerson, and set about the construction of one of his now-famous stoves, it was easy to see that the recycled-into-a-firebox electric water heater tank was the real secret of his wood-burner's low cost. Also its ease of assembly. Heck. Once you've found your "junked but still in good condition" water heater tank, you've already got about three-quarters of your stove "custom made" just the way you want it.

And it really isn't difficult to find one of these tanks, either. Most of the landfills scattered around the country, in fact, are so filled with the containers that we've- developed a sneaking suspicion the old water heaters breed out there. Maybe not ... but there sure are a lot of 'em "out there" for the taking.

Any discarded electric (forget the gas ones for this project) water heater from 30- to 50-gallon capacity will convert nicely into a stove. We've come to think, however, that one of the 30-gallon tanks (with a diameter of 20 inches and a length of 32 inches) makes the best-looking wood-burner of all.

Pick and choose a little from your friendly local landfills, dumps, or the alleyways behind appliance stores until you find just the tank or tanks you want. Then (if you're doing your "shopping" in a landfill or dump) strip off the lightweight sheet metal "wrapper" and insulation right in the field and make sure that the main tank inside isn't rusted out or filled with corrosion. Or, if circumstances dictate, you can do this stripping back home in your shop and then haul the castoff sheet metal and insulation back to the dump when you're ready to discard them.

THE REST IS EASY

Anyone with a cutting torch and welder will find the rest easy. And if you don't own or operate such equipment, scout around until you find a competent welding shop that'll convert your tank at a reasonable price.

Lay the container on its side and add legs and the "loading hopper box with hinged lid" as illustrated in the accompanying drawing. Then weld in the "exhaust stack" or "smoke boot" as shown. Make sure that all seams are airtight and that the hoqper box lid fits snugly (airtight) too. he draft control is, perhaps, the most critical part of all. If it's well made and doesn't leak, you'll have good and positive control of your finished stove's blaze and temperature at all times. Conversely, if it isn't well made and it does leak, you won't. Work carefully and do the job right.

Once the stove is completely assembled, paint all its outside surfaces with Rustoleum Bar-B-Q black paint or "high temperature engine paint". You've just built yourself one mighty fine wood-burner! And—even if you bought everything (approximately 65 pounds of steel) except the recycled water heater tank, you shouldn't have spent more than $35 on the project. (Bob and Emerson built MOTHER's demonstration model in one short day—six hours—for a total cost of $31.54.)

IT WORKS!

MOTHER researcher Dennis Burk-holder has been using our original "water heater wood stove" to warm his entire 1,100square-foot house since last fall and he's constantly amazed at the large amount of heat and small amount of ashes the unit produces. He's also been pleasantly surprised by the way the heater holds a fire overnight. "All I do in the morning," says Dennis, "is jar the stove a couple of times, open the draft a bit ... and the ole log-burner snaps right to life."

Dennis, in fact, has bragged up that first stove so much that other MOTHER staffers have now built and are using variations of the same design. And we currently have so much experience (all good!) with the heaters under our collective belt that MOTHER has put together a complete set of step-by-step plans and instructions that cover every possible finer point of building and using one of the wood-burners. If you'd like a set, send $6.00 and your name and address to Wood-Burner, P.O. Box A, East Flat Rock, N.C. 28726.

Even when you add in the cost of the plans and operating manual, your "$500 wood-burning stove" still shouldn't cost you more than $41!

All articles are reprinted just as they were published on the date indicated. Source listings, addresses and prices have not been updated; some details may have changed and terminology may be outmoded.

In some cases the scanning software used to create the digital articles has introduced typos into the text. In particular, the software often translated fractions incorrectly, i.e. "1/2" now reads as "112". We are working to correct these errors.

I have read that a dryer drum..would also be good for this..and of course we all have dryers...

I would use my dryer drum and I have a fire pit in my back yard surronded by meduims sized rocks..I would use the rocks around the dryer drum..and this would be set up on my concrete floor in the basement..and I would use the shell on the floor to stop to much heat and then I have gas forced air and would use some of this piping to ventalate..I know it sounds hazardous, but I would prefer this over freezing to death...I have stored firewood in my shed, not much, but enough to heat a bit...

we have been using a barrel stove for years at work, now have one at home, works great, husband welded a plate on top to put kettle for steam, can also cook on top if needed. whatever you do, just make sure wood is dry ( look for cracks in logs ) if its too wet or not cured it can cause buildup that can lead to a fire. and please have your chimney checked by a prof. just to be sure its ok...

I just purchased a heavy duty down comforter for half price, $150.00, as it's February. It should keep you toasty warm. A hat and down slippers can keep in alot of body heat.
One winter we had a severe ice storm, electricity was out, our fireplace sent 80% of the heat up the chimmey, we were so cold, so we took a few large stones, heated them in our fireplace, and placed them in coffee cans, they gave off lots of heat, drastic but effective. When you're very cold, any heat helps. I believe in the old days folks put them in their beds!

I not so much worried for this winter as I am for next. I'm in the south so we have decent temps especially this year.

I have heard of stories of using hot rocks in bed to keep warm. I've also concluded that if we are without electricity and a cold front comes through then I'm going to confine the family to one room lined with down comforters on the walls and ceiling. I've noticed that my closet is always one of warmest rooms in the house. It is lined with clothes. Heck this could become our "warm room". Small spaces warm up with 4 bodies in it pretty quickly. I'm too 'chicken' to have warm bricks touching anything flamable so maybe I could find a metal pan to put them in to keep the air warm.

Heck with natural gas prices I might as well start now and save money to buy rations.

Ella, you could use one of those campfire popcorn poppers (cleaned really well or unused I would think or you will be dreaming of popcorn) and fill it with hot embers or hot coals and place it between the sheets as a bed warmer just like they did in colonial times. The popper is metal and the handle is wooden.

"I am only one; but still I am one, I cannot do everything, but still I can do something. I will not refuse to do the something I can do." -- Hellen Keller

I will be using the following amoung other things such as the Nuwick Candle: (If you want more heat just put another wick in it or it can be used to cook with)

Example: Can get just the blanket kind or:

A special design blanket or poncho that utilizes the proven thermal and weather protective benefits of the original Space® Brand all-weather blanket material. Contoured hood fully protects ones head, and fitted hand inserts all make for a light compact design. 5’ x 6’ in Olive Drab. Reinforced and center grommeted with all edges bound. Great ground cover, retains 80% body heat, lightweight, can use as a solar shade, and much more! Made in the USA.

Get a hot water bottle from any drug-store. Made out of rubber, cost about $6 and last pretty much forever. Fill it about 2/3 with boiling water, push the air out (very important!!) and seal it tight with the stopper. I'm from Europe initially and everyone uses them. You'll be nice and toasty in no time ! Also perfect for anytime someone has fever-chills.

I have recently purchased a number of propane items. Two lanterns, 2 burner stove, 1 burner stove, indoor catalytic heater, and all maner of hoses, y connectors, fittings and 4 20 lb propane tanks and 2 cases of one lb tanks

Many years ago when I worked with plumbing and high pressure pumping systems we always used Teflon tape on the threads at the joints to eliminate leaks by making the threads fit tighter. |What I cant seem to find out is if this is a good idea with propane systems. Sure dont want flamable gas leaks. I know u can find leaks with soapy water but would rather not have them to start with. The teenagers and managers at the sporting goods and plumbing stores were singularly ignorant and/or unhelpful. Anybody out there know if this is a good idea or dangerous or unnecessary or what??? Please, no guessing, knlowledge only. By the way I was able to buy a handy little fitting at the Harbor Freight store for refilling 1lb disposable cylinders from 20 lb or larger tanks. cost about $16.00. Also would appreciate any other insights on using propane fuled devices as I never have been much on recreational camping.( burned out on it in the Marine Corps I guess) Semper Fi !

We have gas and electric at our home. What are the chances that this will not be available during a pandemic in the US? Should we really be stock piling wood with the thought of converting our gas fireplaces?

Most utilities require daily monitoring and maintenance. How many essential personnel will show up for work during a raging H2H pandemic? I'm not sure myself... but I have to believe it will be, at best, a skeleton crew. Areas that are served electricity underground have a better chance of surviving maintenance issues.

We have utility poles and a butt-load of trees. No gas service but plenty of grill propane. I also converted my fireplace to a wood stove, added basic solar power to run the fans, and will store about 4-5 cords of wood for next winter.

We have heated with wood for years now so we have an older cast iron wood stove. It is a Timberline model that has two doors that swing open in the front. It has a flat top on it and I have used it to cook on in past winters when the power went out. This woodstove heats the majority of the house but we can block off rooms that wouldn't need heat. We can also move a mattress into the livingroom for sleeping.The one thing that we need to keep on hand is more fuel for the chainsaw (we cut our own wood) and extra parts for the chainsaw. Plus it wouldn't hurt to get extra wood stacked up.

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