the englekings have a fan but its turned off unless the psu gets to 45 celcius. im eagarly waiting for SA to get them in stock. tom's hardware recently did a review and said it was good for the most part

Strong exhaustless ATX Spezialnetzteil with large power reserves active PFC high efficiency high maximum stress particularly high maximum stream outstanding tension Konstanz large power reserves for Natural luftzirkulation supports extensions of all kinds high breakdown immunity design thermally secured, overload-proof, overvoltage-secured 360 the Watt power pack Silentium! SPS360A is an absolutely loudless and nevertheless very high performance power pack, which provides also with highest load peaks for outstanding tension Konstanz. Thus your computer is in the best possible way approximately crashes protected by instability of the current supply.

Hehe, the words "absolutely loudless" stand out.

Well, I am in your camp, stingpd. There ought to be a cheaper way to power a Silent PC. Still, the best retail deal I know of is the TK Power 300 from Orion http://www.orion-industries.com which costs $144 + shipping. Have one glued to the roof of an aluminum case at home right now, and it works well. I have heard tell that the TK 230's are only $54 in lots of 50+ directly from TK. The 170 watt model would do it for me, but I can not find ANYONE selling these. Anyone here want to split a batch? Perhaps the market is small, but I would love to test the waters and build a dozen or so chassis-heat-grounded PSU cases for fanless PC's.

It is easier to find 12v AC-DC converters with heavy aluminum open frame housings. Perhaps these, in combination with a DC-DC ATX PSU would do the trick. http://www.opussolutions.com

It seems the people who know are not talking or else we fanless PC enthusiasts are a REALLY tiny group.

Here's my solution for a passive PSU without any kind of noisy case fans. It's a cheapest possible 300W ATX PSU with a heatsink connected to PSU's small heatsinks by arctic silver adhesive. The hot transistors in this PSU are max 40C and other components about 30 C.

I have the DigitalDoc 5, which monitors 8 temperatures and controls 8 fans. You can set each individual temp threshhold. Would be great for an app like this. I think it cost about $50 or so. (CompUSA were selling an individual fan controller with a temp setting - ~$22. If they sell it, must be cheaper elsewhere!).

Regarding cooling the PSU with a heatsink ... is it safe to assume that the current heatsinks are not 'live' in a PSU? I know the capacitors are potentially 'hot' for some time after power down; I was thinking that maybe the heatsinks were live when the device was in use? If that's definitely not the case, then opening up the case and applying a big old heatsink seems like the obvious thing to do. I currently have a 'voltage controlled' fan in my PSU (using Zalman fan controller, variable control of fan speed). I could hook a temp sensor from the PSU to the digidoc, and control a fan with it instead.

So what parts are truly 'live' in a PSU when 'on' - anything you can 'touch' with the lid off?

Regarding cooling the PSU with a heatsink ... is it safe to assume that the current heatsinks are not 'live' in a PSU? I know the capacitors are potentially 'hot' for some time after power down; I was thinking that maybe the heatsinks were live when the device was in use? If that's definitely not the case, then opening up the case and applying a big old heatsink seems like the obvious thing to do. I currently have a 'voltage controlled' fan in my PSU (using Zalman fan controller, variable control of fan speed). I could hook a temp sensor from the PSU to the digidoc, and control a fan with it instead.

So what parts are truly 'live' in a PSU when 'on' - anything you can 'touch' with the lid off?

Measure, measure and measure and, just to be sure, measure.
No straight answers here, some heatsinks are indeed 'live' others aren't.
And 'live' can be up to 300 V DC! Be carefull...

But whatever is the case, you can always (electrically) isolate. In that case, don't forget to isolate the screws attaching the power devices to the heatsink, they can conduct too.

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