Do those TV gadgets really work?

Tucked high in our kitchen cupboard is a collection of gadgets my family rarely uses, from dicers to ratcheting tools to ravioli folders. We even have the blooming onion machine.

All these items have one thing in common: They were television offers my mom couldn't resist. If an item is sold on TV, there's a good chance my mom has bought two. (One for her, one for me. She's generous that way.)

A few weeks ago, my mom sent our family the Gopher, a gripping tool that extends a person's reach. It has been advertised on TV a lot lately, so naturally, it ended up in our mailbox.

"Another thing that doesn't work, I bet," said Adam, 11, our youngest, unwrapping the package. Well, good news, Mom: The Gopher is one of those TV items that we found really works (more on that later).

"I bet you Nana is the only person in the world who buys these things," said Al, 19, the oldest.

Of course not, I said. Millions and millions of people buy this stuff. Look at the packaging: "Millions Sold."

And that's when the idea hit me. These people, the millions buying this stuff -- that's you -- need more guidance. You need to know what works and what doesn't. Who better to tell you than me? (OK, o maybe my mom.) You need someone more reliable than TV pitchmen Ron Popeil or Billy Mays, folks. Heck, on TV, everything works, everything looks good.

So here is a roundup of "As Seen on TV." Most of the items we tested once were available only through the tube. Over the years, several, such as the FoodSaver and the FlipFold, have gained popularity, so today, they're also available in department stores or through mail-order catalogs. No need to wonder any longer, though, about whether that TV offer is a jewel or junk. We've cooked, cleaned, flipped, folded and fixed, all so you can get the truth.

Foodsaver

What it does: The FoodSaver removes air from a specially manufactured bag, then immediately seals it. For our family of seven, this vacuum sealer keeps frozen food free of freezer burn for months. When removed, foods -- from steaks to sauces -- are store-bought fresh. Buy bulk and save is our motto.

What it costs: We opted for the most expensive model when we bought our FoodSaver Professional II from Chef's Catalog; it sells for $274.99. The price includes a box of gallon-size bags, an 11-inch roll of plastic to make custom-size bags and two canisters for sealing things such as dried fruit or nuts. Smaller machines (from about $159) and accessories (bags, rolls and containers) are available in department stores.

Verdict: The machine is easy to use, clean and store. The drawback is that the storage bags and rolls are about $20 per package and not as reusable as the manufacturer, Tilia, claims. A tiny hole renders the bag useless; if we use a bag more than twice, we're lucky. But, overall, it's one of the most reliable and efficient machines we've ever purchased. The FoodSaver gets our highest grade: 4 stars.

Ronco Showtime

Rotisserie Oven

What it promises: Rotisserie chicken at home. We were skeptical. After all, Ronco owner Ron Popiel's claims to fame are the Pocket Fisherman, a portable fishing rod and reel, and the GLH Formula No. 9 Hair System, a hair spray that covers bald spots. You think we're trusting him with roasted chicken?

We roasted two 5-pound chickens and an 8-pound turkey breast. Each time, the meat was moist, tender and flavorful, and we added very little seasoning.

What it costs: We purchased the smallest model, the Jr. Showtime, from a department store for $99 and had trouble fitting both chickens in together. Then we read the directions, which specifically say this model can fit up to two 3-pound chickens. But a 3-pound chicken is quite small. Go for the medium or large models.

Verdict: The infomercial boast of the "best chicken" you've ever tasted is pretty accurate. But the catch-phrase of "set it and forget it" isn't. Keep an eye on the oven, presumably because a chicken could fall off the spit. The Jr. Showtime cleans easily.

Drippings drain into a removable pan at the bottom of the oven, and the unit gives the kitchen a wonderful aroma during cooking. 4 stars.

The Gopher

What it does: After finishing our chicken dinner cooked in the Jr. Showtime, we needed a large coffee can to drain the dripping pan. We found a can out of reach (or so we thought) on the top shelf of a kitchen cupboard. "Dad, use the Gopher," said Matt, 12. One squeeze of the trigger, and its two hands locked onto the 3-pound coffee can. Extends reach by 3 feet.

What it costs: At $9.99, it's cheaper than keeping an orangutan around the house.

Verdict: Dandy little item. 4 stars.

The GatorGrip

What it does: Unlike an ordinary socket, which fits perfectly around a nut or bolt head, the GatorGrip automatically adjusts to fit any size bolt head or nut, even damaged and rusted. Small rods inside the socket extend to grip tightly.

What it costs: The GatorGrip is $14.99, including a ratcheting wrench and an adapter that fits the socket to drills and screwdrivers.