At the centre of the attractive small harbour of Marina Corta in Lipari, there is an unassuming quaint church dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow and to the Souls of Purgatory. One could easily fail to visit this place since fun and life beckons from the several restaurants, cafeterias and shops situated right across in the spacious square. Yet a most unique and pleasant surprise awaits those who decide to step inside.

The church was built in 1545, just five years after the island of Lipari was sacked by the Turkish corsair Barbarossa who took away almost the entire population into slavery. Defiantly constructed on the jutting rocks, the church intended to serve as a point of reference for those who repopulated the island.

However, along the years, as other chapels and churches were built around Lipari, this church was abandoned and left to its own destiny. Critically close to the sea, the building suffered severe damage, and in recent years, it was on the brink of collapse.

On a cold winter day in 2011, with the rough seas hitting mercilessly at this church, a group of locals decided to save this place. They were all saddened by the neglected state of this historical building and they were adamant to do something about it. After they came out with a plan, they discussed their ideas with their parish priest, Fr Giuseppe Mirabito, who agreed at once to collaborate with them.

The Association SS. Cosma and Damiano Marinacorta was established to coordinate this project. The stability of the building was the first thing which had to be addressed quickly. As the members of the association talked about this project with other locals and friends, support came in the form of the required materials and voluntary help. In time, the external part of the church was restored. However, the internal area of the church remained in dire need of restoration.

As the building started to regain its dignity, the association’s members needed to come up with new ideas to attract visitors to the church. Their main aim was to create more awareness about the historical and cultural value of this building so that more people would help out with this venture, particularly with the funds which were required to restore the church completely.

Since it was close to Christmas, they decided to build a crib inside the church. But this was no ordinary crib with religious iconography. Instead, it was laid out to represent the fishing village of Lipari as it was in the old days and it was named Presepe del Mare.

Peppuccio Costanzo, one of the association’s members and a fisherman, assisted in the design of this crib which was made of papier-mache. The miniature village was a replica of the real buildings, architecture and life that existed in Lipari around fifty years ago. A number of known village characters were also included in this most unusual crib.

The crib’s landscape was built along a watercourse with real fish living inside. The crib is mostly populated by fishermen, some of whom are at work while others are idling around. The attention which was given to the details in this crib acts as a time capsule to help visitors visualize better how Lipari looked before it was regenerated to suit the needs of the increasing tourist demands. It also pictures several traditions of the time. Locals may even recognize some of the people represented in the figurines; a number of whom have by now passed away.

Existing landmarks such as the church of St Joseph and the statue of St Bartholomew serve as identifying marks in the changing village. Gone are most of the old houses which can be seen in the crib. Today, these have been replaced by higher modern buildings. Traditional life as shown in the crib has almost dissolved into nothingness. Tradesmen’s shops have been taken over by modern outlets selling souvenirs or boat rides. The fish seller who called out in the streets, nowadays displays his fish in a van. Women do not carry water jugs anymore; tap water is now readily available. Clothes are no longer washed in public places; washing machines take care of this matter. The young man who played the guitar beneath the balcony of the girl he loved will today send her an sms instead.

The crib’s culmination and originality is certainly in the warm and simple nativity scene where fishermen are greeting baby Jesus, not sheperds. Colourful fishing boats and straw fishermen’s baskets are present in the area, not hills and sheep. An angel sings besides a balcony of a house not on top of a cave.

As people came to visit this crib, it became evident that this was more than a seasonal project. Soon it was decided that this crib should remain in this church as a cultural symbol of Lipari. The crib would be visitable all around the year and whoever paid the entrance fee of €1 would be assisting in the restoration of the church.

By now, Presepe del Mare has come to form part of the cultural identity of Lipari. Besides presenting the craftsmanship of those who made it, the crib is also a relevant reminder of the importance of keeping traditions alive and of conserving the remaining architecture of the area.

Info about Lipari: The island of Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian volcanic archipelago. Nowadays, its population is around 12,700, although it generally reaches 20,000 during the tourist season, from May to September. Due to its charming character, historical value and holiday atmosphere, Lipari is a top destination. Fast ferry connections from Sicily all stop at this island, as well as plenty of boats and hydrofoils, making it the ideal place to reach the other islands in the archipelago – Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo.

(This feature was published in The Christmas Supplement issued with The Sunday Times of Malta on 2nd December 2018)