Description

Peak 17 or Little Finger AKA The Stinky Pinkey is the easternmost of the Turret Needles visible from Silverton. The peak is remote and rarely climbed.

Getting There

Approach via the Ruby Lake trail. From Needleton, head upstream away from everyone else going to Chicago Basin. You'll pass through one meadow after 1/3 mile or so and enter another after an additional 1/3 mile. Looking around you may see several cut logs turned on end as chairs around a fire pit. You may also notice that the trail pretty much disappears. Head to the east side of the clearing and look for the Ruby trail. Look around hard if you don't find it at first. You want to make sure you find it. It's there. It's about 2-3 hours on a steep trail to the lake and another hour to the upper basin. Above you to the south is Pigeon Peak's massive east face, Turret Peak, then in order: 15,16, and 17. Look for a wide sandy chute on the far end of the basin. Climb it to the top. Peak 17 is easily viewed from there. A high traverse through a small corridor leads to a ledge and expedient access to the route.

The climb begins just right of a large chimney capped by a massive chockstone. It is also easy to access via New York basin.

Climb 50 feet of garbage (5.5) up a crack just to the right of the west chimney topping out on a large chockstone. This protects adequately and a large stopper works well about 20 feet up. Belay with medium stoppers on right wall in alcove. This is the crux: Find a piton 12 feet up, clip it, and go. I am not sure what the rating is given the total shit nature of the moves. Generally wet/running water on awful, rotten rock. There is opportunity for gear here, but luckily none of it is much...[more]Browse More Classics in CO