Monday, 5 September 2016

Hummell wall - Gullane beach (near Edinburgh)

I managed to climb a couple of hard lines.
I doubt that these are FAs but the moves are cool and not recorded anywhere, so just in case someone would be looking for ideas, here they are.

I've given them Gaelic names, just because I can - It's my blog, so I make the rules, but who cares about obscure climb names anyway :)

Àirde An Làin, 6a : cool crimpy moves. Topping out is high and dodgy (mosh and bushes), Not recommended. Best is to escape rightward and down climb.

High & Dry, 5 - see previous post. It did not feel like 6a after all.

Leum, 6a: from a good side pull right hand, step up and reach high to a break.

An t-sliseag 6c+: Sit-start both hands on an edge in the red part. Pop to slopers above the lip, move right then pop up again high to a hidden hold. Get over the overhang's lip and finish diagonally up and right. Top out or down climb.

Àrd-ealain, 7a: Sit-start on poor crimps below the lip. Deadpoint to sloper above (hard not to dab) and again to better crimps above. The rest is much easier. Requires a good dry spell and cool conditions (an evening with no sea sea).

Remember:

Don't use any hard/wire brushes !

Hummell Rocks is a soft sandstone crag by the beach. So holds will always be sandy here.
In many cases, you will need to brush the holds before climbing but please, brush them very gently, using soft (not wire!) brushes, to avoid any damage to the rock.
Soft nylon are the most popular, but at Hummel Rocks, even soft brushes need to be used gently! If you want to compete with the next guy, give him a chance to try the same climb ;)

Don't climb here less than 24 hours after the rain

Climbing on wet sandstone destroys it.
Hand holds and footholds are softer and break apart more easily.
Wait as much as possible, at least a week when there's been high humidity, cold temperature and already moist conditions.
So late summer is probably the best period to climb at Hummell Rocks.

Leum, 6a: from a good side pull right hand, step up and reach high to a break.

An t-sliseag 6c+: Sit-start both hands on an edge in the red part. Pop to slopers above the lip, move right then pop up again high to a hidden hold. Get over the overhang's lip and finish diagonally up and right. Top out or down climb.

Àrd-ealain, 7a: Sit-start on poor crimps below the lip. Deadpoint to sloper above (hard not to dab) and again to better crimps above. The rest is much easier. Requires a good dry spell and cool conditions (an evening with no sea sea).

Remember:

Don't use any hard/wire brushes !

Hummell Rocks is a soft sandstone crag by the beach.
So holds will always be sandy here.
In many cases, you will need to brush the holds before climbing but please, brush them very gently, using soft (not wire!) brushes, to avoid any damage to the rock.
Soft nylon are the most popular, but at Hummel Rocks, even soft brushes need to be used gently!
If you want to compete with the next guy, give him a chance to try the same climb ;)

Don't climb here less than 24 hours after the rain

Climbing on wet sandstone destroys it.
Hand holds and footholds are softer and break apart more easily.Wait as much as possible, at least a week when there's been high humidity, cold temperature and already moist conditions.
So late summer is probably the best period to climb at Hummell Rocks.

Monday, 15 August 2016

The last problem is called "Home de ferro" (Iron man). It's a classic 6c in Cabo Prior near Ferrol. The granit is rough but the location is really beautiful.For more info, get the topo for all the bouldering spots in the north of Galicia:

Monday, 6 June 2016

It's called "ìosal". It means "low" in Scottish Gaelic, because it is a low traverse and well... you can't climb it when the tide is high.

I haven't got a clue about the grade. It felt like the hardest climb I've ever sent, but then, every time I send a project, it feels like that.
Still, this one is 5 or 6 moves long - the end part being much easier, so it's a solid 7b problem, probably harder.

There are a few other cool problems around but I won't give more details here - there should be plenty within the next edition of John Watson's Bouldering in Scotland guidebook.

Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Leaba Na hAon Bho in Oughtdarra is an inland crag a little further up the road pass Ballyryan crags in the Burren (park at the Crumlin stone sign).

It's a bouldering option when Doolin boulders are soaked by sea spray - because the same sea wind that sprays the boulders in Doolin dries those further up inland.

Tayto Boulder - South Face

The cracks and features of this boulder were filed with empty crisp bags.

This may be part of a local cult but given the proximity to the crags, it is possible that this dirty practice belongs to various social groups including hill walkers and climbers.

I sincerely hope I'm wrong.

I've removed many of these bags but if you find some more, please take them home.

The Burren is no one's backyard.

1. Tayto, 5. Sit-start in the groove crack and go straight up to top out.

2. Mister Tayto, 6a. Same start but traverse the diagonal crack to reach holds beyond the round prow then top out.

3. The man inside the jacket, 6c. Traverse from far left (sit-start on big vertical crack) and link into 'Mister Tayto'.

The reach (6a?)

The cool moves of this problem are actually the start to a trad route called The Reach (E1 6a).
Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket and reach far right for an obvious crack. After this, it's either an easy highball or a jump off back to the bouldering mat.

Arán Is Im

1. Arán, 5. Sit-start on the bottom right of the prow and climb it straight up on sharp holds. Top out.

2. Im, 6a. Stand start on the left side (north facing) and climb up using a system of cracks. Top out.

3. Arán is im , 7a. Hard link. Sit-start on Arán but cross leftwards using a slopey crimp (right hand) on the arête to reach the cracks to the left. Then finish up as for Im.