As the only photographer completely allowed inside the world of Alexander McQueen for 13 years, Anne Deniau has collected 400 photographs that give a rare and intimate glimpse into the making of his 26 collections, from 1996 to his final show in 2010. Her new book, Love Looks Not With The Eyes, out next month, shows McQueen at work with his closest collaborators—including Kate Moss, Philip Treacy, and successor Sarah Burton.

ELLE: This isn't quite a "backstage pass" book of images, is it?

Anne Deniau: I read those two words "backstage" and "access" everywhere. It's not about backstage. I've never been a backstage photographer. It was much wider than that—it was a real connection. We were very close and very connected. I think people imagine me as

a girl with a pass backstage. It's not backstage, it's inside; and it's not access, it's trust.

ELLE: You started shooting McQueen in the late '90s. How long did it take for him to become comfortable with you?

AD: It happened very quickly. We spent two weeks at Givenchy, and that's a lot of time when it's every day. At the time, I was living in Tokyo, and two weeks after he did his prêt-à-porter show in Paris, they [Givenchy] decided to launch him in Tokyo, so he came for one month. For four weeks, I was in charge of being everywhere—in the studio, at the show, TV appearance, and walking in the streets with Lee and the family, [stylist] Katy England, and Sarah [Burton]. That's when we all connected. But everything was very fluid. There was never any contract.

ELLE: Would you say he just operated on instinct and that he trusted you?

AD: Lee was very good at judging people and their honesty, and I am a very direct, straight person. And he loved the pictures, so it happened quickly, yes.

ELLE: Was there ever a time when he said, "Don't shoot me?"

AD: No, because I would feel it. I would feel if I could take pictures or not. If an outfit was not working perfectly and everyone was under pressure, it was not the right time to take a picture, so I would not. I was very careful about feeling the right moment. Backstage with McQueen was hard work. People imagine it to be fun, with music and beautiful models, but it was not at all like that. It was real work.

ELLE: The images of Lee and Kate Moss laughing together really capture their friendship.

AD: I call these the "Kate pages." They're very tender. You see their bond, it's intimate.

ELLE: When did you decide to do this book?

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

AD: I started to think about the book in 2006, because it would have been ten years [since I started to shoot], and I decided to wait. I made the decision in September 2011. After Lee, um, disappeared, I couldn't look at any images until October and November of last year. This is very difficult to say, because 2010 seems like yesterday. Sarah [Burton] asked me if I had a picture of her and Lee, so I had to reopen the boxes; it's film, so I have boxes. I thought, if I'm not doing it now, I will never do it, because I knew it would be tough. It was full of joy, too, because it was full of souvenirs, and you remember everything, but it's been the most painful thing I've ever had to do. I'm so happy for Lee that the book exists; I'm relieved.

ELLE: In the text you mention that during your final long conversation with Lee in 2009, he said, "I wanted you to document my life from the beginning, in your unique way; now you have my life in pictures. I trust you. I wanted it that way." Did you sense any finality in what he was saying?

AD: Not at the time, honestly, no. It was just because we were discussing this project, and we were talking about this book. And we hadn't seen each other for a long time.

ELLE: So he knew the intention was to make a book?

AD: Yes, since 2006. That's why at the end of the text [in the book], I say I regret I have waited this long.

AD: Yeah. That's the part which is missing. The other day it struck me, I mean, I am happy—these images have to be shared, that's a duty. But then suddenly it came back to me: I can't show him.

ELLE: He seems like he was very down to earth.

AD: He had a big heart, and he had qualities. He was very deep, faithful, loving, and caring. He would recognize sincerity.

ELLE: How is it working at Alexander McQueen now?

AD: The first show was difficult, but that has nothing to do with Sarah. The first show was difficult for everyone. I was so confident that she was the right person, and I think she went

beyond everyone's expectations. I think she is absolutely the right person for the house and the company, because she is so faithful to Lee and to herself at the same time. She isn't a prisoner of what Lee was doing, but is so faithful and respectful.

ELLE: Is it hard to talk about the book because you're not just talking about the book, you're talking about a friend who passed away?

AD: I'm not here to tell stories about Lee. I just had to do this tribute to his talent and to the man, because he gave everything. He gave so much. I'm quite happy to tell anecdotes and stories about the shows, but really what I was intending to do was my best for him because I loved him. This book just has to exist for itself. When a book is finished, it doesn't belong to you anymore.

A Part of Hearst Digital Media
ELLE participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites.