Captain Jia Jingwei keeps a much closer eye on his regiment's
food costs since pork prices across China began soaring from 10
yuan (US$1.3) per kg in May to almost double.

"We don't have money to squander," says Jia, director of the
supply section of an anti-aircraft regiment of the Beijing Garrison
Command of the People's Liberation Army (PLA).

His 1,000 soldiers consume 125 kg of pork a day, which used to
cost 1,250 yuan (US$164). Since the price hike, the daily cost of
pork has risen by more than 1,100 yuan (US$144.7), equal to the
daily subsidy for 100 personnel.

Even the prices offered by a slaughtering and processing plant
that has a long-term meat supply contract with Jia's regiment
wentup.

"Without careful planning, it is difficult to get good food
foronly 11 yuan a man," says Feng Liang, director of the military
supply division of the PLA's General Logistics Department, adding
that an increase in food subsidies this year can ease the impact
caused by the pork price hikes.

Feng says China's defense budget is relatively small both in
terms of sums and per capita amounts.

"To ensure good meals we have to practice economy."

A Food Revolution

"Red rice, pumpkin soup, Dig wild vegetables as our food,

"Commissioner Mao is with us, Every meal will be tasty."

This couplet from the song "Commissioner Mao Is with Us"
originated in the Jinggangshan Revolutionary Base in east China's
Jiangxi Province where Mao Zedong, then an alternate member of
thePolitical Bureau of the Communist Party of China (CPC) Central
Committee, successfully led the Autumn Harvest Uprising in the
Hunan-Jiangxi Border Region in 1927.

As one of the most popular "revolutionary songs" still sung
today, it reflects the hardships the CPC-led Red Army in fighting
the Kuomintang troop.

Red rice and pumpkin soup are local specialties in the Jinggang
Mountains and a part of the visitor experience today.

The red rice, a coarse staple, was eaten without much seasoning
in 1927, and the pumpkin soup was commonly described as "not
revolutionary enough" as hunger usually returned very soon after
its consumption.

Without a regular supply chain, the Red Army, later renamed the
People's Liberation Army, drove back the invading Japanese army and
defeated the Kuomintang with its simple "xiaomi jia buqiang" or
"millet and rifle" approach.

Today's PLA has updated the refrain with "nutritious food and
long-range missiles". Since 1978, China has increased military food
subsidies 24 times.

The latest increase was backdated to Jan. 1 when each soldier's
daily food subsidy was increased by 10 percent to 11 yuan
(US$1.45). PLA pilots enjoy a daily per capita subsidy of 39 yuan
(US$5.1) as they need more subsidies "to keep up their physical
strength", says Feng. "They always get more care."

"The rise will help offset the impact of price hikes and improve
food for soldiers, as military training demands a lot of energy,"
says Liao Xilong, director of the General Logistics Department of
the PLA.

The government and Central Military Commission want the armed
forces to share the country's booming economy and improved living
standards, Liao says.

According to the Central Military Commission, the defense budget
for 2007 hits 351 billion yuan (US$45 billion), 17.8 percent higher
than last year. It will be used to raise salaries and pensions,
produce new uniforms, and fund training for the country's 2.3
million servicemen and women.

Added Nutritional Value

Li Zhen, head chef of the anti-aircraft regiment of the Beijing
Garrison Command, consults a "dietitian" before making meals for
his regiment.

In fact, the "dietitian" is a computer-based "military recipe
system". Li types in factors such as budget, training intensity and
season and the system will produce a choice of menus with a proper
nutritional balance and detailed analysis.

One menu on the screen reads cakes, cornbread, eggs and milk for
breakfast, and rice, steamed buns, rolls, dumplings and meat rolls
for lunch and dinner.

Li says they arrange soybean milk twice a week as a milk
alternative and fried twisted dough sticks every Tuesday.

"We prepare more than 50 kg of flour for each meal, and on
Tuesday 10 chefs using five big pans fry twisted dough sticks,
which can take about an hour and a half," says Li, who learned the
skills for mass catering after joining the military supply section
of his regiment in 2002.

The PLA General Logistics Department requires each soldier to
have an egg and 250 ml of milk at breakfast, and two kinds of fruit
at lunch and dinner.

Each week, soldiers are required to have three or four kinds
offish and five or six types of animal protein.

"In the past, we prepared meals with whatever food we could get,
without thinking about the nutritional value," says Li, from
central China's Henan Province. He has received an "intermediate"
catering certificate from the Ministry of Labor and Social
Security.

Chef Zhang Yong, in charge of staple foods, says they conducted
a survey of the regiment on preferences.

"More soldiers choose rice because there are more southerners,
though we are all in Beijing, in northern China," says Zhang from
the northern province of Shanxi. Usually people from southern China
prefer rice and northern Chinese prefer flour-based staples such as
steamed buns, noodles and rolls.

According to a PLA food supply standard, which defines the
amount of protein, minerals and vitamins in line with international
practice, the daily amount of meat or fish should be280 grams per
person and the percentage of animal protein should be 17 to 26
percent.

Jia, the regiment military supply director, says the daily per
capita consumption of staples has dropped from 750 grams to 600
grams since January.

"The drop in staple food consumption indicates an increase in
provision of nutritious non-staple foods," says Jia, adding that
personnel no longer depend on staples to allay their hunger.

"When I joined the army at 18, I could eat about a dozen steamed
buns because there was no other food," says a senior colonel who
has been in service for more than two decades.

The PLA has trained its first ever group of 101 military
dietitians this year to help scientifically adjust menus in
accordance with training intensity, says Jia, adding that
previously dietitians only appeared in air force canteens and
military hospitals.

Soldiers get extra festival subsidies of 10 yuan (US$1.3) per
day per person on occasions such as the first day of the May Day,
National Day, New Year's Day and Army Day and the first three days
of the traditional Spring Festival.

Jia said they could have more for meals and snacks, as well as
drinks on festivals. "But alcohol is not allowed," he said, adding
that the liquor ban started at the beginning of 1990s.

The rise of the PLA budget this year also helped fund a
large-scale renovation of military canteens.

"Outside the PLA, it's almost impossible to have so many kinds
of food on a daily subsidy of 11 yuan per person," Peng said, but
the nutritional and dietary goals are "set rules" that must be
met.

Hot Meals and Fat Discounts

Chef Zhang Yong, a non-commissioned officer, rises at 5:00 AM.
Half an hour later, Zhang, in a truck with three "duty buyers",
goes to a wholesale food market three kilometers away.

After intense bargaining with sellers, they return with a ton of
vegetables, including 200 kg of tomatoes at around 8:30 AM.

"Vendors like selling to us and giving us a fat discount because
we buy in bulk," says Zhang.

They have a long-term meat supply contract with a slaughtering
and processing plant so as to reduce costs and guarantee a supply
of quality pork.

Cheaper animal proteins such as chicken, duck and aquatic
products are an alternative to expensive pork to balance nutrition,
Zhang says.

Previously in Zhang's regiment, all subordinate companies
prepared meals independently. "Smoke from 17 chimneys choked
passers-by when they were all cooking."

Since the end of last year, the regiment set up a supply service
center that integrates resources and prepares meals for all
companies.

"We prepare food for the entire regiment, which reduces energy
consumption and pollution," says Jia, adding that in the first half
year they saved about 60,000 yuan (US$8,000), up 40percent from the
same period last year. Jia would not say how much they spent in the
first half year.

Zhang says the committee is also in charge of discussing menus,
noting soldiers' favorites and restocking.

Most staff in the supply service center are non-commissioned
officers with special cooking skills.

With twice-yearly training sessions from star chefs at the PLA
Beijing Command Chef Training Center, Zhang and comrades can
prepare meals satisfying both stomachs and taste buds for 150
people in an hour.

Feng says chefs are especially trained to quickly prepare good,
hot meals for personnel conducting field operations and military
drills.

"Chinese people are accustomed to hot meals. An exhausted field
army longs for a good, hot meal. Cold sandwiches and bread are
neither popular nor durable," says Feng.

The PLA has 74 chef training and rating centers, with more
than10,000 professional chefs graduating annually.

Even in distant areas and remote garrisons where military
supplies take days or even weeks to arrive, soldiers can enjoy
specially preserved shrimp, rice pudding, vegetables and moon
cakes, says Feng.