Away from it All

If you’ve read and admired Western writers Wallace Stegner and Edward Abbey, this is the itinerary for you. Though Stegner says, “We simply need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than drive to its edge and look in,” this ambitious two-day itinerary will soothe your soul and boost your spirits as you do more than just look in. Welcome to the wild country.

Many stop by Cedar Breaks National Monument to peer into its colorful amphitheater. Separate yourself from the crowd by arriving early and racing the sunrise to the Ramparts. Later, drop deep into the backcountry of Bryce Canyon’s spire-filled basin, where few tourists ever venture — an amphitheater of peace. Then, at night, admire the stars in the pristine darkness of Bryce Canyon’s 9,000-foot elevation.

In Capitol Reef, day two will provide you with a national park experience without the usual crowds. Head out into nature’s place of worship in Cathedral Valley and breathe in the dry, juniper-scented air as you marvel at the massive monoliths. Wander through narrow, hidden passages on the Grand Wash and Cohab Trail. Capitol Reef is a certified International Dark Sky Park. Return home if you must, or plan an early departure tomorrow morning so you can renew yourself again under the pitch black night sky and the billions of stars it reveals.

Spend a few days away from the hustle and bustle and gain a new appreciation for the peace you’ll find in wild places.

Day 1
125 Miles

CEDAR BREAKS TO BRYCE CANYON

Cedar Breaks National Monument

Under-the-Rim Trail

Dark Skies of Bryce Canyon

The Ramparts hike of Cedar Breaks National Monument can separate you from the crowd, especially if you get an early start and race the sunrise. This will also give you time to tackle Bryce Canyon’s Fairyland Loop or perhaps a spur trail to the remote reaches of Bryce Canyon. If you can spare an extra day, the Under-the-Rim Trail is a premier backcountry hike. Wherever you land for the night, stay up late for pristine dark skies.

CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT

The rim of Cedar Breaks is above 10,000 feet and looks into a natural amphitheater plunging 2,000 feet below, taking your eyes for a colorful ride through arches, hoodoos and canyons. Stunning views are common on these hikes so keep your camera nearby. It’s also a certified Dark Sky Park, which means the nights are like nowhere else.

You’ll want more than a day to explore the breadth of Bryce Canyon’s premier backpacking route along the Pink Cliffs. Connector trails enable shorter routes, or you can tackle the full 23 miles with a permit and designated campsite.

Bryce Canyon is the ultimate place to experience the splendor of the night sky. Protected by a special force of park rangers and volunteer Utah astronomy enthusiasts, Bryce Canyon is known as the last grand sanctuary of natural darkness and has one of the nation's oldest astronomy programs.

Your high-clearance vehicle will get you to the backcountry of Capitol Reef, where some of its most iconic sandstone monoliths stand sentry over these peaceful but rugged lands. You can also break from the crowd on the Frying Pan and Cassidy Arch hikes between the popular Cohab Canyon and Grand Wash hikes. If you can show late for work tomorrow, stay up for a second date with the Milky Way in this certified International Dark Sky Park.

CATHEDRAL VALLEY BACKWAY

Solace seekers with wayfinding skills can set out across open backcountry for close-up looks at giant castle-like sandstone formations. A high-clearance vehicle is essential back here. There’s a river ford and some big bumps to negotiate. Go prepared for the unexpected.

Taken individually, the Grand Wash and Cohab Canyon are both excellent out-and-back hikes with distinct trails. Separate yourself from the crowd by combining the two with the Frying Pan Trail, an excellent exploration of the Waterpocket Fold. Arrange a shuttle or add 2.5 miles of hiking up the road.

HICKMAN BRIDGE + NAVAJO KNOBS

These front country hikes in Capitol Reef National Park lead to amazing rock formations and panoramic views of Southeastern Utah. Hickman Bridge is a short out-and-back (about 2 miles). The Rim Overlook and/or Navajo Knobs add 2.3 and 4.7 miles, respectively, for an elevated view of Capitol Reef’s tilted landscapes.

ROUTE MAP

EXPLORE MORE

Some other experiences to try close to your journey.

ASHDOWN GORGE WILDERNESS

This is a varied hike that will have you meandering among high alpine meadows and through narrow limestone passageways. Explore this moderate hike from Cedar Breaks National Monument through Dixie National Forest — hike a little or make a full day of it with a two-car shuttle. Image courtesy Walt Haas on Flickr.

Indigenous myth has it that Coyote locked the spirits of the wicked in dramatic hoodoos. Over an 8-mile, 4-hour hike you’ll come to believe in this landscape’s mythical qualities. This is iconic Bryce Canyon with less of the crowd. Short on time? Trail run it.

The first official name, “Chimney Rock” reflects the area’s 67 monolithic stone spires, part of a multicolored landscape so beautiful it earned the nickname “Kodachrome” after a popular Kodak film. The name stuck and today visitors enjoy camping and hiking across 2,240 acres of photogenic, geologic wonder. Nearby Grosvenor Arch (pictured) offers a quick glimpse into Grand Staircase, but check road conditions before traveling.

This 47-mile backway connects Scenic Byway 12 in the north with Highway 89 on the south, passing by Kodachrome Basin and numerous trailheads to short spurs or backpacking excursions on the monument. Popular destinations include Cottonwood Narrows toward the south and Grosvenor Arch toward the north. Photo courtesy The Greater Southwestern Exploration Company on Flickr.

The Burr Trail Scenic Backway is one of the most picturesque drives in Utah. A paved and graded gravel and dirt road passing through slickrock mountains and sandstone dunes, it extends from Boulder to Bullfrog Marina with a spur north through Capitol Reef on the Notom Road.

Boulder Mountain sprawls over an expansive 50,000 acres and is the highest timbered plateau in North America. Whether you are in for hiking or rock climbing along the Great Western Trail, an ATV ride, or camping at Fish Creek Reservoir (among many lakes on the mountain), the scenery is epic.

You can drive Thousand Lake Mountain Road, a 35-mile scenic backway, from Fremont all the way through the Cathedral Valley section of Capitol Reef. Explore remote lakes and stand in awe surrounded by aspens. Don’t miss the Deep Creek Desert overlook.