Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in

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There are 2 solenoids, on the inside of the machine that turn the water on and off as needed.
You need a screw driver and an ohm meter. UNPLUG the machine.

Remove the top of the machine. Kenmores usually have 2 scews and 2 curved plates that the screws hold down. At the rear upper rear of the machine.
2. lift the top off(you may have to pry it up as there are spring clips that go up into the lid). Be careful as you do this, looking fowires that may need to be disconnected, from the bottom. You can rest the lid on the washer opposite the hoses.
3. you will see 2 solenoids, 1 behind each hose. check to see that the wire connectors sre snug and not corroded.
4. Make sure that any diconnected wires have the ends taped to prevent any live wires touching metal, when you plug the washer back into the oulet.
5.Plug the washer into the wall outlet then go to the timer control and set a wash cycle. LISTEN to see if you hear the click of the solenoids engaging. If you don't hear clicks, the solenoids sre not acuating.
6. remove the wires(2) on 1 solenoid. Check with an ohm meter and it should read 5 or 6 ohms. Do this to the other solenoid. reconnect the wires just as they were. if the ohms check out you have a control board problem.
Let me know

This is a
common problem with a momentary power failure, the controller doesn't get time
to reset and return to an idle state before the machine gets power back and it
gets "confused". You will almost
certainly find that unplugging from the mains (Not just powering off on the
button, as some door locks have a sneak circuit, even when the power is turned
off at the button) and leaving the machine undisturbed for a full 20 minutes
will allow a reset, the door lock will disengage and all will be well when you
power back up.

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.

When the START/PAUSE/Unlock Lid is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will use short, slow spins to estimate the load size. These sensing spins may take 2 to 3 minutes before water is added to the load and you may hear the hum of these spins. If the sensing light is on, then washer is working properly. You will hear the motor turn the basket in short pulses to thoroughly wet the load. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: Avoid opening the lid during sensing. The sensing process will start over when the washer is restarted. The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

If there's no water, then Page 13

Washer won't run or fill, washer stops working, or wash light remains on (indicating that the washer was unable to fill appropriately)

Thank you first person that has provided a model number sounds like you already changed the lid lock assembly if you did you know how to get the top up inside the front panel is a tech sheet it will tell you how to place the unit into diagnostic and read the lights for an error code recheck your connection at the control board a flashing lid lock would should give and F5E1 or F5E2 error code also check the alinement of the tab on the lid where it goes into the lock assembly should be a smooth transition