Galician specialties stand out at Spanish standby

The year 1992 was a biggie for Spain. It celebrated the summer Olympics, held in Barcelona, the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ voyage to the New World, and in Raritan, a restaurant named Spain 92 made its appearance.

While the dining establishment never grabbed international headlines, it’s still going strong years after those other events have become mere memories. Its longevity may be attributed to food that is well-prepared in large portions at reasonable prices, as well as the intense personal involvement of its owners, host Sergio Seijas and chef Manny Feijoo.

The partners are from Galicia in northern Spain and like to celebrate their heritage, which has Celtic roots. Bagpipes, known in Galicia as the gaita, are part of the scene when they hold their Galicia Celta nights (the next one is Nov. 18.)

Seijas knows how to make customers feel like guests, and Feijoo has a special touch with all the favorites, whether it’s the simple but effective morrones Mediterraneo ($4.50), brightly colored roasted peppers accented by herbs and spice, or the pork chops á la Gallega ($18.95), piquant with onions, garlic and peppers in a distinctive tomato brandy sauce. Familiar dishes include arroz con pollo ($18.95), chicken and rice enlivened by sausage and red peppers.

Entrées come with a soup, rice and those wonderful, warm, thinly sliced potatoes reminiscent of potato chips, except thicker and much better.

Specials such as the tender pulpo Gallega ($11.95), Galician-style octopus in paprika and olive oil with a buttery aura, add extra notes of interest to a menu loaded with traditional offerings, including clams in green sauce ($9.50), the chef’s specialty, or the paellas ($22.50). One is made with seafood, the other with chicken and sausage in the seafood mix.

Whatever you choose, you’ll find a good wine that likely is a bargain to go with it. The price-conscious will be happy with this list.

Galicia is known for its seafood, and the options in that category are many. Unfortunately, the gambas a ajillo ($9.95), the garlicky shrimp that are practically compulsory fare at a Spanish restaurant, were slightly tough, which took the luster off this starter. Simple items, such as broiled sea bass made with white wine and lemon juice ($23.75), are juxtaposed with more elaborate concepts. A seafood-stuffed lobster special ($22.95) springs to mind, along with a broiled combo of lamb chops and lobster tails highlighted by grilled corn and mushrooms ($26.95).

Desserts showed style, from the cinnamon and citrus-spiked arroz con leche (the equivalent of rice pudding, $5) to flan ($5) and even a just-rich-enough version of that ubiquitous favorite, tiramisu ($6).

One measure of Spain 92’s status is that it started as a 50-seat restaurant in a tiny strip mall and now is still packing in patrons in a free-standing building with approximately three times the capacity and lots more atmosphere. Tile floors, brick and stucco evoke the atmosphere of an old-fashioned Spanish tavern.

Being busy can have a bit of a downside, though; we didn’t get quite the attention we wanted from our server — our water glasses, for instance, were not refilled on a timely basis. Overall, however, this restaurant is a reliable stop for Spanish food, well-deserving of its longevity and popularity.