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Chicken-fried lobster at Queenie's Steakhouse in Denton: Those sauces didn't save it

George W. Bush said, at a speech in Dallas in 2005, back when he was president: “Chicken-fried lobster is no substitute for the real thing.” When I read this, my first thought was “Of course. Why would you take a Maine lobster that would be perfectly wonderful if properly boiled and ruin the thing by frying it?”

I don’t think it’s what he meant, though. In the speech, he was lamenting the fact that he and the first lady were spending more time at their vacation home in Maine than they were in Texas. “We do get homesick,” he said. “Chicken-fried lobster is no substitute for the real thing.” Sounds like he was having his chef at Kennebunkport chicken-fry those lobsters, and he missed the real thing — chicken-fried steak.

Chicken-fried lobster and chipotle-glazed quail at Culpepper's Restaurant in 2003

So as you can see (or maybe you remember), chicken-fried lobster is not a new thing. But lately, it’s appearing on more and more menus. Tim Love does a chicken-fried whole lobster at Queenie’s Steakhouse in Denton. Dean Fearing served a dish called “Southern lobster” — chunks of chicken-fried lobster tail and broiled, barbecue-glazed lobster tail on mashed Yukon Gold potatoes — in 2005, when he was chef at the Mansion, and has been riffing on the dish ever since. That same year, it was a signature for David Holben, when he was chef at Culpepper’s Restaurant in Rockwall (he served it with chipotle-glazed quail), and then he brought it to Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, when he became chef there. The earliest reference I find is a 1986 issue of Texas Monthly that made mention of the dish being served in East Texas, at Tyler Petroleum Club.

This afternoon, I received a press release from Max’s Wine Dive. “Chef Patrick Russell rolls out a new menu item,” it said breathlessly. “Chicken-fried lobster tail…Why the hell not?”

Here’s why the hell not: Chicken-fried lobster is a terrible idea. It always was. I’m always up for trying it, imagining that some clever chef has figured out a way to make it wonderful. It never is. The distinguished critic Bill Addison, my predecessor here at The Dallas Morning News, put it this way, in a 2007 review of then-new Fearing’s: “Thick batter simply doesn’t complement the seafood.” How right he was. Chicken-fried lobster needs to go away. A lobster is a terrible thing to waste.

Rudy Mikula (left) still has a job at Max's Wine Dive; Paul Pinnell (right) is out. Joel Harloff, who was part of this 2008 Dali Wine Bar team, is the executive chef at the Second Floor Bistro these days.

I just confirmed with Lasco Enterprises president Rick Van Pelt that Paul Pinnell is out as the general manager at Max’s Wine Dive in Dallas, which just hosted a bunch of press types for a dinner less than a week ago with Pinnell front and center.

Here’s hoping, with all the restaurant activity going on, that he’ll land an even better gig. In every setting where I’ve known Pinnell, he has always been the consummate professional and bounces back with uncommon resilience.

Meanwhile, fans of Dali and Nana will recognize Rudy Mikula behind the bar at Max’s. Van Pelt confirms that he’s still got a job. I had to ask the question because Pinnell and Mikula have worked together at several other venues. It could have been a package deal.

Southern fried chicken is a specialty at newly opened Max's Wine Dive in the West Village digs where Borders Books & Music used to be.

Today, where bibliophiles once roamed the aisles at Borders Books & Music in the West Village, food-and-wine-lovers sip, eat and get their music groove on at Max’s Wine Dive, the first Dallas outpost of the Houston-based mini-chain (casual, with lots of brick and tall storefront windows).

I got a menu preview at a recent press dinner, but the personal highlight of the evening was reconnecting with longtime Dallas wine expert Paul Pinnell (think Dali Wine Bar and Nana at its most muscular, both defunct). He’s been hiding out in New Orleans and returns as Max’s general manager. He’s excited to be back, he says, spurred by the fact that his Dali was modeled in part on Max’s.

He explained to me how Max’s gets certain of its wines from producers who make exclusive blends for the wine bar and its sib, The Tasting Room in Houston. ‘Gives the place control over the flavor profile, he says, and the ability to keep consumer prices lower. You can also take home bottles retail, if you like a particular selection.

As for the menu, it’s a curious combination of upscale comfort on one side of the menu and chef-drive specialties from Patrick Russell on the other. Max’s likes to brag about its fried chicken and champagne, a combo that didn’t disappoint. Cut in boneless pieces (including one amazing one that was half white, half dark), the bird had a light, crunchy crust with a subtle jalapeno bite and, yes, went swimmingly with Domaine Chandon Etoile sparkling wine.

I also have to mention the chicken-fried brussels sprouts from chef Russell (late of Craft): What a way to get recalcitrant ones to eat this oft-despised veggie. (I think it’s like beets: You’re either for ‘em or agin’ ‘em.) They come with ham vinegar for dunking. Chef’s side of the menu also includes foie gras torchon sliders, Texas quail, pumpkin risotto and a deconstructed dish of pork (applewood-smoked bacon) and beans (white bean puree) with scallops.

Now here’s a cool twist. On the menu, find this note: “Love your food? Compliments (Texas-style) to the kitchen! $15 buy(s) a 6-pack of Lone Star tall boys for the crew.” Nice, don’t you think?