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Finally...our 19 day glorious October 2007 (very long detailed) trip report to Italy!

Let me begin by thanking everyone on this board who made this the most amazing trip ever. I have used Fodor's talk for a couple years...gathering, asking, reading, etc. to create this (10 year Anniversary) trip of a lifetime which was a dream come true.

About us: My husband and I are in mid-40's (young at heart, hip and adventurous) and live in Southern California. We have 7 yr old son who made his own memories and adventures while staying with Grandpa and Grandma for 19 nights!

THE PLANNING: I love the planning phase as much as the trip itself (that's why I'm addicted to this board!). I immersed myself in reading practically everything Italian, about Italy, etc. We watched travel shows/movies galore about Italy. I experienced 2 "burnouts" during the planning which resulted in a couple months of anti-Italy.

How I organized: (this system worked best for me) I cut and paste specific excerpts that I wanted from Fodor's talk, news articles, travel websites and dropped the info into a MS Word categorized by A) city B)type: ie. FOOD, ACTIVITIES, LODGING, etc. I also used a 3 inch binder with tabs for each location and plastic sleeves to hold articles, notes, etc.

"Visions of Italy" is an outstanding disc series we highly recommend. It's an aerial tour of Italy. Breathtaking! A must for all Italy bound travelers.

Favorite reads: Ross King's Brunelleschi's Dome, John Brendt's City of Falling Angels and Marlena De Blasi's A Thousand Days in Venice (a must for all romantics!).

Favorite travel books: Fodor's, Access, Pauline Frommer's. We especially recommend the Access series (we used: Venice and Florence) and buy this book for any destination we take. For a 40-something couple, we have found that Access consistently has excellent advice for travelers like ourselves and is formatted to appeal to us.

*Wandering, Wandering, Wandering…getting lost and making new discoveries in back alleys and canals off-the-beaten-path. Venice was like a maze waiting to be explored. We loved stumbling across art around every corner. We steered as far away from the crowds as possible!

*Exploring Venice before sunrise and having her all to ourselves. This was our favorite way to start our day. We enjoyed seeing how Venice come to life. It was fascinating to observe how everyday routines such as laundry, trash and provisions are boated in/out. It was especially beautiful to see St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge in utter solitude. Bellisimo!

*Riding the Vaporetto (water bus lines #1 & #82) the length of the Grand Canal early morning and at dusk. A.M.: we loved being among the Venetians who were on their way to work/school. P.M.: we enjoyed seeing the chandeliers flickering in the grand palaces and the brilliance of the sun setting upon the buildings and casting a golden glow. (and yes, it’s true…all Venetians can hum a tune. We enjoyed the daily serenades by the Vaporetto operators.).

*Our fave squares: Campo San Stefano and Campo S. Giacomo dell’Orio. Here we spent countless hours lingering at cafes snacking and sipping (DH was on a quest to sample every Italian beer (birra); me: prosecco) while the locals gathered, chatted and drank their daily apertivos (Lo Spritz). We loved watching the children play soccer and ride scooters. Our son would be in heaven here. Second and third generations of families would come out for passagiata (the italian art of strolling, to see and be seen). This was Venetian life at it’s finest. We could fit in just fine!

*The battle of the Orchestras at St. Mark’s Square late at night with no crowds (and no pigeons!). So romantic with St. Mark’s as our dance floor!

*Our late night peacefully romantic gondola ride gliding down back canals with just the sound of the oar skimming the glassy water and our gondolier Roberto softly singing Italian love ballads. So cliche’….but truly a memory to last a lifetime. It seemed like we were the only gondola on the water. It was very pricey this time of night, but worth every penny!

*Our incredible stay at Locanda Orseolo: http://www.locandaorseolo.com/en/ A fabulous inn in the heart of Venice on a small quiet courtyard filled with Venetian flair and graciously warm hospitality. Here we enjoyed elegant breakfasts of decadent lemon crepes, grilled vegetables, cheeses/meats, pastries, fresh fruit, mint/green tea and blood orange juice. Our initial plan was to eat quick and start exploring, but we loved chatting with the other guests and having lingering conversations (hiking in the Dolomites, Classical Guitar, Italian Music, Venetian foods, Venetian nightlife….to name a few!) with our lifelong friends…the crew from LO: Gigi, Francesco, Barbara, Bruno and Igor. We knew we were going to miss this place terribly from day one.

When we first checked out Tripadvisor.com to read all the glowing reviews from past guests and how they bonded with the staff, frankly, we didn’t care if we bonded…..we just hoped for great service. But, it was the bonding and outstanding service that made our trip to Venice extra special for us.

*Watching the Rialto Produce and Seafood market set up and come to life. Be there before 7am for the best show! Incredible variety, freshness and color of vegetables/fruit. Seafood to die for. We enjoyed this so much that we got up early 2 days in a row. All you foodies would go bonkers! We vowed on our next trip to Venice to stay in an apartment with a kitchen so we can peruse the markets daily and eat like the locals do.

*Walking the Zattare promenade and Dorsoduro and seeing the Squero (gondola workshop) and the Lido in the distance. Being awed by the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (one of the most photographed churches in Italy….and we can see why!)

*The Museo Navale Storic (Naval Museum). Interesting history and models of arsenal/ships. The guys will love this one! DH could've spent all day here.

*Art exhibit at Palazzo Grassi. http://www.palazzograssi.it/ A true juxtaposition of modern art meets old world Palazzo. Very avante-garde. The art collection rotates frequently.

*Fabulous Dinner at Acqua Pazza. http://veniceacquapazza.com/ This is where our italian phrasebook came in handy…..DH and I joked about an italian phrase in the book that stated, “we’d like something with no eyeballs”. Touche’. Before our meal was served, the waiter brought over a whole local (raw) fish called Breal/Dentex…eyeballs and all, for us to “approve”. Later, it was presented and filleted beautifully on a platter with thinly sliced grilled zucchini drizzled in olive oil. This meal melted in our mouths and we wiped the plate clean. It was washed down with a Supertuscan red vino and polished off with a homemade Limoncello (italian lemon liqueur). We dined outdoors, but next time would opt for their cozy, energetic inside dining room. This was our priciest meal of all, but worth it.

*Peggy Guggenheim art collection. http://www.guggenheim-venice.it/inglese/default.html Peggy’s personal very modern and beautiful collection in her canalside Palace Ca’ Venier. We visited Ca’ Venier on our first day. Hanging out on her terrace right on the Grand Canal was a good choice to soak in Venice while fighting off jet lag.

Ca’ Rezzonico Palazzo tour in a luxe Palace which displayed how the wealthy Venetians once lived. It boasts grand views of the Grand Canal and an outstanding art collection.

Still to come...more VENICE highlights (can you tell we loved this city???)

In May, I will be in Venice [during my first trip to Europe] and am wondering what you paid for your gondola ride/how long the ride itself was. This is the one thing I want to definitely do, but am interested in the cost so I can budget accordingly.

*Excellent Shopping. We discovered some fabulous unique shops and galleries (esp. in the area near La Fenice, near San Stefano campo and in the San Polo districts) where artisans displayed their wares and some were actually performing their craft. This surprised me since I thought that there would be all touristy and cheese-y shops in Venice (which there are so many!). We brought back some amazing watercolors of Venice from an artist with an extraordinary contemporary style (at La Pedrera bottega d’arte in San Polo).

We discovered a gem of an antique shop tucked away (near campo S. Angelo) when we found a small metal statue of Venice’s winged lion and an old bound italian scrip of “Ridotto” with my adored clown Pulcinella on the cover. Great finds at a bargain price.

On day 2, I spied a glass ornament (santa on a gondola) in a shop window. I should’ve bought it right then, but figured they’d be all over the place. Well…..no other shop had an ornament as nice as this one and we couldn’t remember where the shop was that had it. DH and I were on a mission and luckily on the last day, we stumbled across the shop. So….as they say, “buy it when you see it since you may never find it again”!

*La Fenice Opera House tour. We took the audio tour of this famous opera house which burnt down twice and was recently restored to it’s splendor. If possible, take a live tour....the audio tour was just okay. We were privy to be graced with an audition of male sopranos for an upcoming opera. It was awesome to be sitting in a grandeur theatre box with these men belting out arias.

*Secret Itineraries tour at the Doge’s Palace. We took this behind-the-scenes tour of where Casanova was housed during his jail term and included the attics and rafters of this fine palace. The palace itself rivals Versailles with it’s Golden Staircase, priceless artwork and massive marble arches. It’s also connects to the famous “Bridge of Sighs”. Tip: have your hotel make advance reservations.

*Authentic Venetian Maskmakers. Watching artisans create masks from scratch was amazing. We embraced one small shop owner who took such pride in his work…and it showed. The San Polo and area near campo San Stefano were filled to it’s brim with great authentic shops.

*Drinks at the swanky Centrale Lounge. http://www.centrale-lounge.com/en/index.htm A nightcap after 4 glorious days in Venezia. This hip place had great art, vibe and ambiance. I was REALLY craving a Dirty Grey Goose Martini, but the vodka selection was a bit “low shelf”. So…”when in Rome”….we enjoyed a Lo Spritz (me) and Limoncello (DH). It's a bit more "NYC" than Venetian, but boasts great Venetian contemporary art and unique Murano glass chandeliers. It even has it's very own gondola dock to arrive in style.

I am loving your report. It sounds like you travel like I do! We are taking our first trip to Italy in May, starting in Venice, staying at Locanda Orseolo, spending 2 nights in Florence, before heading to the CT and then Tuscany.

Funny, before our trip I knew we were going to do a gondola ride, but when we arrived in Venice, there were so many that it looked like a circus. I got very turned off. It seemed so touristy (which I'm not against, since we're tourists) but mostly...so unromantic.

During the day there are dozens of filled gondolas on a single canal and many people watch from the bridges, take photos and gawk (us included). It took away all the allure for me. However, doing it late at night with not another soul on the water was heavenly. I can't imagine it any other way.

I need to check my notes on price. It was more than we expected since we'd planned on 80E. Offhand I want to say 120E. It was near midnight and there were only 2 gondoliers. Our dilemma: we were leaving the next day so it was now or never. We tried to negotiate, but it was what it was. We checked with our hotel the next day and they confirmed that late at night, the price was fare. We felt that maybe we were ripped off, but our gondolier was fabulous. He told us stories, gave us history, etc. ....and the clicher: Ballads and all!

The important stuff: What to Pack?: It was our first trip to Europe. As a woman, my quest was to look stylish without taking a gazillion outfits. I had made lists (which sadly kept growing) a couple months in advance. A couple weeks before we began collecting our things, I put a clothes rack in our spare room which I hung my “wish list”. My goal was to cut that in half (or darn near!). I tried somewhat successfully putting together outfits that could mix and match. I like accessories, so this really saved the day. Hats, pashmina wraps, all to change the look of the same outfit. I should say that for a trip of this length, I’m not the carry-on type (especially with all the liquid rules). We had a 3 hr layover at JFK, so I wasn’t too concerned that the luggage would miss the connection. If it did, oh well…we’re in Italy!

I wouldn’t call myself a light or heavy packer, but I’m always happy with the amount I take. I read the horror stories of travelers who take a lot or a large suitcase which they have trouble storing/lifting in trains or over a dozen small bridges in Venice. We were going for nearly 3 weeks, but since we had a washer/dryer in Tuscany halfway through the trip, we packed for a 10 day trip….as lightly as possible....I'm happy to report, we did just that.

These items were godsends (and necessary!):

-converter

-a smallish bag that you can wear diagonally across your body. I found a stylish one at Diesel that had an adjustable strap and pockets for everything. It had zippers with snaps for extra security. It was big enough to carry all the essentials: my digital camera, maps, small journal, extra batteries/memory cards, tissue, etc. On top of that….it was cute!

-4 compressed packing bags…what a fab invention! (we bought 2 different sets of these and the ones from American Tourister were sturdier and worked out best). This worked out very well. We compressed our outfits in groups (ie: all clothes for Cinque Terre hiking in one bag, so we didn’t use it until we got there).

-2 large parachute duffles that packed into a small case about the size of a paperback. book. These we’d carry our dirty clothes home in so we could fill our suitcases with goodies.

-Packable umbrella

-(3)-2GB memory cards (I’m a photoholic)

-iPod: loaded with 2 playlists just for the trip: Italy-classics and Italy-lounge mix.

-3 (5” X 12”) heavy duty plastic zip top clear “envelopes”: one to hold receipts, one to hold paper mementos, one to hold receipts (just from purchases). This organization system worked like a charm for us.

-GSM compatible cell phone (we ordered the “Pack Lite” through Telestial). We needed one for calling home to our son and while in Tuscany for a week without a land line in our cottage.

-travel candles/matches (to freshen stale room smells)

-mini spray air freshener

-copies of itinerary in each luggage/bag along with copy of Driver’s license and Passport.

-International Driver’s License (if renting a car)

-travel alarm clock

THE FLIGHT
Functioning on a few hours of sleep the night before due to last minute preparation and exhilaration, we flew out of Los Angeles (via Delta) on Wednesday, October 10 at 9am. With a 3 hr layover at JFK, we arrived in Venice-Marco Polo around noon on Thursday, October 11 (approx. 13 hours of flying time). Flights were (surprisingly) great. We had the entertainment system on the seat back which was awesome. Having a selection of movies, shows, games at our disposal made the flight seem shorter. We caught a few ZZZ’s wearing our complimentary eyemasks (in a nice shade of cranberry red….stylish!). Also, the attendant kept giving us vino…complimentary. Delta rocks!

I have to add that while waiting at the gate at JFK, I was a bit disappointed. What was wrong with these travelers? They didn’t seem excited…..didn’t they know they were going to Venice? Maybe they were at the wrong gate (nope, I checked a few times if maybe we were!). We were amped up and delirious….maybe it was our lack of sleep? Nope, we were finally on our way to Italia!

MARCO POLO AIRPORT
So, we’ve touched down in Venice. So this is how it feels. I need to be pinched! We load off the plane, easily go through customs (where when I say my very first “buon giorno” and “grazie” to the Italian customs guy, it comes out just plain bad). Oh well, I just need some practice. Next, we easily head to the luggage carousel. Signs are in English. Again, easy. We collect our bags and head out. We (again, easily) locate the ATM machine, get our Euros and head towards the “Information/Ticket” counter. The “info” gal spoke English nicely….bummer. We boned up on some basic Italian to make our experience richer and I vowed to use it as much as possible (which I did). This was too easy…..we bought our 3 day Vaporetto pass and the Alilaguna shuttle pass right there.

THE ALILAGUNA (water shuttle)
Next, we followed the easily (of course) marked walkway to the water shuttle. We’ve read all the horror stories about travelers who get lost, can’t get Euros, lose their luggage, are disorientated, etc. and this was starting out all too easy. Italy rocks! Since this was a special occasion for us (10 yr anniversary) we thought about arriving in style: a private water taxi, but I couldn’t justify the cost. Now, it did seem pretty cool arriving in a fast taxi hanging out taking photos of your first glimpse of Venezia, but still….molto Euro. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait too long and our “barge” (aka water shuttle) took off. Actually it wasn’t so bad. The water taxis’ whizzed by and we were in it’s wake. We actually enjoyed (who are we kidding?) the putt-putt ride over to take the scenery in. After nearly an hour, we were here. I envisioned how I would feel (which I did) and how I would act (bawl like a baby….which I didn’t) when I first laid eyes upon Venezia. Wow…we were finally here.

FIRST IMPRESSION
DH and I stepped off the “barge” and onto the platform together. "1-2-3 Step". It was romantic and we were in the most romantic place on earth. However, it didn’t seem so romantic weaving through all the crowds and the cheese-y vendor stands. Hey, it’s October….low season??? We could only imagine how crowded Venice was during
high season…yikes! We had to walk through St. Mark’s Square to get to our inn. It was mind boggling how many people were here. Thoughts were going through my mind: What if I hated Venice? Was it a religious holiday? Why is a huge Dolce and Gabbana ad plastered all over that historic building? So we forged on, through the crowds and now through the pigeons. Queues and queues of people were lined up to enter St. Mark’s Basilica. I’ve always had this fascination about Caffe’ Florian and seeing the caffe’ for the first time was pretty exciting. So…our first impression of St. Mark’s Square: we appreciated it’s history and beauty, but quite frankly couldn’t wait to get out of there!

LOCANDA ORSEOLO
We followed the easy map that instructed us to our inn, Locanda Orseolo, which I will affectionately refer to as “LO” for the remainder of this report.

First, I’ll give you some background info. I found this inn about 2 years ago. I stumbled across it on Fodor’s Talk when it was recommended by dozens of travelers. It was one of those same ole threads about “Where to stay in Venice”. You know the one were posters responses are: “I second LO”, or “Another vote for LO”, “We loved LO”, “We’ll only stay at LO”, etc. Then I made the mistake of checking out LO on tripadvisor.com. It seemed that weekly, a new post was made echoing the same as the last hundred posts. Was this place to good to be true? How can everyone who stays there be their friend? What if we stayed there and they clearly didn’t want to be our friend….would we feel bad (ha!)? After looking at the photos (especially the one where the staff looks like they stepped off the pages of Italian GQ and Vogue), I decided that this was the only place we had to stay. It seemed to have all the elements we were looking for: location, service, décor, on a canal, quiet, romantic, etc. So, I booked our stay well over a year in advance. And so….I continued to check tripadvisor weekly to see the(same old) new posts about LO’s outstanding service, Matteo’s crepes, impeccable breakfasts, how they treated their guests like family….yada yada.

So there we are, making our way to our LO. We had to lug our suitcases over only one small bridge. It was hard to pass since the gondola station was right there and tourists were stopped on the bridge hanging over the bridge capturing the photo ops. We managed to push our way through. We shortly found the gate to the LO’s courtyard and came upon the awning emblazoned with “Locanda Orseolo” that I’d seen in dozens of photos. It seemed so surreal to be here. We couldn’t believe how quiet it was. So conveniently close to St. Mark’s hoardes of people, but so peaceful.

We opened the door and were warmly greeted by Francesco who quickly ran over from behind the desk to warmly greet us and take our luggage. He genuinely made us feel that he was happy to see us. He called us by name without us telling him who we were….a little freaky, but pretty cool. The inn was richly decorated in deep reds and golds. It was tastefully appointed and exuded Venetian flair. I peeked at the breakfast room and saw the window door that gave access to a water arrival. Just then Bruno, who was in the back room, bolted out to give us a warm welcome. Okay, so now we get it…it’s all true what they say. I was finding myself beginning to formulate just what my post at Tripadvisor and Fodor’s would say about this great inn.

Francesco and Bruno took our luggage upstairs and showed us our room. It had a whimsical mural painted on the wall and it, too was richly decorated in reds and golds. It was also spacious and comfortable. We were very pleased. We unpacked a few items and made a plan of what to do. After all the research, we had our list of what we wanted to accomplish day to day while having lots of flexibility for spontaneity. On day #1, we didn’t have any plans knowing that we’d have jet lag. We were both feeling pretty good and exhilarated. We just wanted to let Venice sink in. So…we grabbed our map (I like and totally recommend the Red Maps series) and went on our merry way, but not without first getting another wholehearted greeting from Francesco and Bruno when we came down the stairs. We found ourselves both walking out the door with huge smiles on our face.

VENICE OR BUST!
We walked out the courtyard gate and into the opposite direction of St. Mark’s Square. Time to get lost! I had read that you can find your way by looking at the names of landmarks painted on the walls at each “intersection” of the passageways. This was so true. We just kept walking and taking in the sights/smells of Venice. Beginning to fall in love with her. The farther we got from St. Mark’s, so was the memory of our first impression. Every so often, we’d consult our map to get our bearings and a sense of where we were. We were headed towards the Rialto Bridge. We came upon Rialto and I didn’t have that “ooh aah” feeling about her either. She was packed to the gills with people. Aargh! We detoured and passed café’s filled with Venetians standing, chatting loudly and having a snack…we realized how hungry we were.

CAMPO SAN STEFANO
Soon we found ourselves at a somewhat large square called Campo San Stefano (San Marco district). It was a beautiful spacious square that had its share of outdoor café’s. Little did we know that this would become one of our favorite squares in all of Venice. We like the hometown feel of it as Venetians were hanging out. This would be a perfect place to have our first meal. We grabbed a table and the server (looking like an Italian Rod Stewart) came out with his notepad and pen ready to take our order. We used our broken Italian and hand gestures to ask for a menu while pointing at dishes in the case. It was like a scene out of an “I Love Lucy” episode. But, hey….we got our food and we’re in Venice. Our first meal in Italy: salad mista with cheeses & olives; mushroom risotto, flatbread. Polished off with a beer (birra) for DH and a Prosecco for me. The meal was good and the ambiance superb. We ordered another glass of beer and Prosecco toasting each other to our first day in Venice. I could hang out here forever.

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
We wandered towards the Accademia bridge and I spied a couple gondoliers sitting on the bridge taking a break. This photo op would be one of my fave photos taken in Venice. We hung out on this wooden bridge taking in the Grand Canal and the activity on it. Seeing the numerously packed gondolas and tourists clamor to capture photos of them was a bit unnerving. I have always loved gondolas, but was quickly losing my allure for the romance of it. We found ourselves near Peggy Guggenheim’s Ca’ Venier palazzo where her art collection is housed, so we decided to have a peek. It wasn’t easy finding the entrance, but after going through a few passageways, we found it. I fell in love with the courtyard with shade from a large old tree also a fine sampling of garden sculptures and Peggy’s beloved dogs’ memorial. We made our way inside and went from room to room viewing her art collection. I imagined her living there and how each room was set up. It was a beautiful palazzo with a terrace right on the Grand Canal. Talk about location, location, location. DH and I walked out onto the terrace and stayed for a long while watching the activity on the Grand Canal and rejuvenating ourselves.

WINGING IT
Back to LO and that same warm greeting. I wonder if these folks ever have a bad day? The owner Barbara was there so we met her. She was equally pleasant and warm. Back to the room to freshen up. Tonight, we had no plans for dinner and were just going to wing it. Out and about once again….wandering. It felt good not to rush to be somewhere. We just followed the passageway to see where it took us. Every moment being a photo op. A mosaic here, a sculpture there. We stopped in a cozy trattoria and had a basic meal of salad, pizza, pasta with a carafe of house red. A decent meal at a decent price. Food/Wine are big parts of our travels (which you’ll find as this report continues). Day #1 was just quick and easy.

ST. MARK'S ORCHESTRAS
About 10pm, we wandered towards St. Mark’s. We could hear the orchestras playing in the distance. Once we stepped unto the square we realized how peaceful it was. People were sitting on the ground, others in the caffe’s….and not a pigeon in sight. I thought we’d end our first night in Venice having a drink at Caffe’ Florian, but it seemed that the best battle of the orchestras was across the way. We headed in that direction. Instead of grabbing a table, we just did as others did, move from orchestra to the next…with St. Mark’s square as the dance floor. Ultra romantic. This is how we found ourselves loving St. Marks’s…when we had her to ourselves. Even the Basilica was looking more beautiful. We listened to a few sets of music while swaying and taking a few spins on the “dance floor”. I reminded DH that we hadn’t had a gelato yet. So…we had a mission. Mission accomplished......

HAZELNUT GELATO
Before we left home, a friend told me all about Hazelnut Gelato. She said that it’s been 8 years since she had Hazelnut Gelato in Italy, but still craves it and can’t find anything as close since she’s been home. So, naturally, I had to try it and became a Hazelnut junkie from my first lick. That and Pistachio was my combo.

DAY 2 (Friday, October 12, 2007)

SLEEP….WHO NEEDS IT?
We’re up at the crack of dawn (6am). I’m one of those travelers who runs on full adrenaline and can’t really sleep soundly until I crash and burn 3 days later. We were surprised at how dark it was this early. It’s only us and the streetcleaner sweeping away all the trash and debri to make room for more. It was exciting to be out so early and we were glad to have dragged ourselves out of bed. Why sleep when there is so much action to be seen? While most were asleep the city was coming alive. Boats filled with provisions were making their drop off’s. Some were collecting trash, others bringing supplies in. It was bustling. The famous Rialto produce and seafood market was our destination. I’ve read how interesting it is to watch it being set up. We came upon the Rialto bridge. There wasn’t a soul on it or near it. WOW! DH took a photo of me on it with my arms spread wide saying….”I have her all to myself”! Funny, at that moment I began to have a warm fuzzy place in my heart for that bridge.

Just over the bridge I spied both bars: Bancogiro and Naranzaria http://www.naranzaria.it/eng-home.htm">http://www.naranzaria.it/eng-home.htm Fodor’s Girlspytravel wrote rave reviews about these 2 bars and it was on our list to do a pubcrawl one night. Even our friends (yes, they’ve now advanced up the ranks to be called friends) at LO endorsed both these places saying that is where they choose to hang out. We peeked in at both places and got excited about the possibility of spending time there.

FAMOUS RIALTO MARKET
Nearby was the Rialto Market. Vendors were whistling tunes, some singing. Vendors were taking pride in setting up their produce just so. We were overwhelmed with the variety/freshness of the produce. Some of which we’ve never seen before. It was all very interesting and enjoyable. So worth getting up for. The fish market was yet another spectacle. The vendors happily and loudly chatting with each other while cleaning and setting up the seafood. Tossing a fish back and forth. It all had really good energy. We thoroughly enjoyed witnessing it all.

VAPORETTO
We then caught the Vaporetto (line #1) and took it the length of the canal. We loved it. As it puttered along....Venetian workers, students, and kids got on and off. The vaporetto operators were singing Italian songs. It was pretty awe-inspiring to see the sun come up and the building became awash in vibrant color. On the way back, we took line #82. We got off and head to St. Mark’s and once again were in awe. The sun was just beginning to rise and created a halo of pinks and oranges over the Campanile. Stunning. We knew that St. Mark’s would become an early morning/late evening date for us.

Back to LO for their sumptuous breakfast. And it didn’t disappoint. I could go on and on, but I won’t. We were feeling smug while having our meal knowing
that we already had a full day’s activity under our belt. What else could Venice have in store for us? We engaged in delightful conversations with other guests and our new LO friends then excused ourselves to get cleaned up to tackle Venice....once again!

Wonderful report. Terrific format. Great detail. This will become a classic.

For your "To do" list for your next visit, if you haven't already done it, add having a drink on the floating dock at the Europa Regina hotel with views back across the Grand Canal to the Santa Maria Della Salute. fantastic and well worth the price.

I too was thinking of taking a water taxi to LO. Coming in through their cute little door sounded like the perfect way to arrive. Did you speak to anyone who did that? Do you regret not doing it? Thanks!

bfrac,
You and I probably have the same photos: globes of eggplant, crates of tomatoes, baskets of hazelnuts. I haven't gotten to it yet, but on morning #2....we did it all again. Were we nuts, yes, probably but had the time of our lives.

Samsaf,
we often wonder if the magic will still be the same the 2nd and 3rd time around. We think so since we won't be rushing off trying to "check musts" off the list. We'd have to time to really savor in areas and on activities we loved on trips past. You'll find though that the rest of the trip is more busy than day #1....no plan!

gregeva1,
We try to be optimistic travelers and roll with the punches. Truthfully, it was in the cards that everything (so far, anyway) was working out perfectly. As the report continues, there will be a blip here or there. We always try to look at the positives...most of the time, anyway. We're under Venice's spell...it's just Day #2.

JulieV,
Grazie for your kind words. I have found that the detail trip reports I've read with lots of "how this made me feel", "what I'd do next time", etc. were the ones that gave me most help in planning my trip. So...it's my turn to give back to the traveling community. I often think it's way too much information, but that's how I roll! We'll definitly add the Europa to our (still ever growing) list of what to do next trip.

BarbaraS,
No regrets on the Water Taxi. I did make the Alilaguna a bit more dramatic than it was (ie. the putt-putt, etc.), however...it would've been a very cool entrance to step right into that window, especially on a first visit to Venice. Again, I wasn't feeling to make the splurge.

Just the BI for this year. I will keep hoping for lava for you (and whales). We missed it this time but saw it 2 years ago flowing into the ocean. I'm hoping to go back to Italy this fall but so far nothing is definite.

The magic of Venice is just as real the second time if not more so. We went back for a second trip to stay a week and get it out of our system, but it now has a deeper hold on us.

I can't wait to read more of your report. Your photos are great, I'm remembering and salivating.

adventureseeker,
Loving your report--like many others, reading of all these places takes me back to the wonderful days we've spent there......and there is still so much we haven't seen. Your pictures were great. Two months from today we'll be back in Venice and with any luck, will come across some of the scenes you captured. Keep it up!

Usually I find myself fading as I try to read these long reports, but yours is keeping me spellbound. Maybe because we leave in less than 3 weeks for our Italy trip - also landing in Venice and staying at LO. I am making notes, all the while acknowledging that my DH and I will not be rising so early! For those of us who are trying to come up with a meal budget, could you give some idea of the cost of your meals? The Delta flight out of JFK to Venice had the seatback tv systems? That is much better than I expected - I hope our flight has that as well. And finally - at LO, you were able to get into your room that early in the day? Also something I am hoping for.

Enjoying your report, adventureseeker. I can see you put a lot of time and effort into it, and it's reminding me much of my and DH's first trip to Venice to renew our vows for our 10th wedding anniversary. Looking forward to more!

Hi adventureseeker, we are doing almost the same trip you did, but in reverse order. We aren't going to Tuscany as we stayed in Castellina in Chianti in 2006. This time we are squeezing in a very quick visit to Sorrento so that we can go to Pompeii.

HOW WE CONQUERED JET LAG
I should point out now how we dealt (or didn’t) with Jet Lag. We had hardly any sleep for 2 nights and a time change which was 9 hours ahead. Travelers on this board mention time and time again about how crucial it is to immediately get onto your destination’s clock. This method really worked for us. We went to bed at the local time that we would back home, got up at the same time, etc. But, we allowed ourselves a catnap on Day #2 before dinner.

Back to Venezia…..

LO
We’re done with breakfast (I promised not to go on and on about LO’s breakfast, but will say that it was hands down the BEST breakfasts of our entire 19 day stay in Italy) and had some great conversation/connections with some guests at LO. A pair of women (one from Florida and one from Boston) who were going on a cruise the next day we clicked with immediately. I think that is the beauty of travel…meeting wonderful people from all over. They asked us about restaurants and we told them that tonight was the night we were dining at Vini da Gigio. We first heard of Vini from posters on Fodor’s. LO made reservations for us here way in advance. LO’s Barbara mentioned this was one of her fave places since they serve traditional Venetian flair. I was sold after viewing their website. It looked like a place we’d enjoy: excellent food, energy, ambiance, locals, etc. We invited our new friends to join us….so they said “yes”. LO happily changed our reservation to 4 persons.

We had to get moving since we had a reservation at St. Mark’s Basilica at 10:25. We weren’t thrilled about it. Remember that we only loved SM during the wee morning or late evening. So, we skipped it. I figured we could see it on our next trip. We wanted to keep St. Mark’s in our good graces and our love affair with Venice was continuing to grow, so we’d do nothing to jeopardize that. Note: we made advance (and free) reservations through the Basilica website http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/">http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/. I tried to do it a couple times and was frustrated that it wasn’t working properly. Third time was a charm for me. So, if you have problems, try again. It will work (eventually).

After getting cleaned up, we came downstairs. This time we were greeted by LO’s GiGi. He, too was another LO clone….perfect service, smile, warmth, etc. This place is a gem (oops sorry, I’ll get off my LO soapbox).

PLAN B
DH’s choice: Museo Navale Storico (Naval Museum). Our 7 yr old son loves anything with wings or wheels, so we were making a visit in his honor (and my “older” son….DH). It is only open M-F, so today was the only day for us to see it. We had to walk through St. Mark’s Square. Aargh! As we walked through the crowds waiting in line, standing in the square and taking photos with pigeons, we were pleased that we nixed the Basilica tour this morning. The Basilica is one “must” we wish we’d done, but we’ll be sure to do it next time.

We continued down the busy main promenade towards the museum. We enjoyed watching the construction going on (replacing the pilings in the canal and the replacement of the stones in the walkway) and the gondolas bobbing. We made a mental note of sometime checking out the famed Hotel Danieli which we passed. The crowds thinned out as we got closer to the museum. The museum itself was quite interesting (and I’m a gal!). We spent just over an hour there. It displayed a very impressive collection of naval and maritime artifacts. I especially liked the gondola display and Peggy Guggenheim’s personal gondola.

Time for a gelato break. Me: Vanilla and Choco Chip (yes, I know…boring, but classic! …and delizioso), DH: Limone

LA FENICE TOUR
LO set us up for a 1pm audio tour. We are fans of Italian Opera and would’ve loved to see a performance here, but there were no shows during our stay. The audio program was long (and boring). I would have much rather had a live tour, but those are limited. We were graced with a soprano audition during our tour. That was worth it. A few robust Italian men belted out arias.

Time for a bite….Another simple lunch at a small café’. Nothing overly special (but then again, we're in Italy): gnocchi pomodoro, mista salad and Valpolicella. We were saving our tastebuds for tonight’s food fest at Vini da Gigio!

We meandered this area near La Fenice which was quite charming and stumbled into a few artisan boutiques nearby. We made a point to take another way back so we could get lost and make new discoveries.

One thing we noticed was how important it was to slow down the pace and look up. We’d seen gorgeous carvings, stonework, bell towers, architectural details etc. that we wouldn’t have otherwise noticed if we were just looking forward. I mentioned that I’m a photoholic. What would we do without digital? One of my favorite photos captured of DH was him looking up staring at something that caught his eye. In the photo, he has the most precious, satisfied smile on his face…priceless.

The lack of sleep is beginning to take it’s toll, so I suggest we rest up so we can enjoy our first REAL meal in Venice. Back to LO. When we arrive at LO, GiGi and Barbara are there greeting us with open arm. We’re exhausted, but manage to engage in a few conversations about what we’ve done, our dinner tonight, hiking, etc. We drag ourselves upstairs and take a much needed rest (2 hr catnap).

We meet our new dinner companions/friends downstairs. We’re excited to be wearing “real clothes” for a night on the town. Finally! Barbara gives us specific directions to Vini. It’s located in the Cannaregio district, but we’re all refreshed and up for more walking. Our reservation is at 7pm. We enjoyed visiting another new area. Time permitting, I’d love to come back another time and explore more. I recognize the restaurant from the photos on the website. It’s about 6:45 and no one is around. I had raved to our new friends about how this was “the place”, etc. Not a soul was around. A few moments later another couple walks up. They go on and on about how they dined here last night and had to come back tonight. Within a few more minutes, people come out of the woodwork. The owner opens the door and we all pile in. We’re in for a treat!

Dinner at lively Vini da Gigio http://www.vinidagigio.com/index_eng.html. Here the 4 of us explored Venetian dining at it’s best. The restaurant was made up of 2 rooms and had a cozy ambiance to it. Our pleasant server spoke some English, so we were able to use some of our broken Italian. Our dinner companions weren’t as adventurous as us in trying the seafood, but found some “not so exotic” choices on the menu they were happy with.

We began with a Venetian “sushi” raw fish platter. Next up: black squid ink pasta and calamari salad. Finished with grilled monkfish and a sumptuous tuna tartare. Drink of choice: delizioso local Soave (white wine). Cost for 2: 97E (1 bottle of vino).
Tip: advance reservations are a MUST!

After a fabulous meal coupled with laughs and great conversation, we all head over to Hotel Danieli for a nightcap. The lobby of the Danieli is worth a peek. Ornate and grandeur it represented Venetian’s past. Unfortunately the rooftop lounge closes after sunset…bummer. We did take in the views, although it was dark, we could easily see why a drink here at sunset is touted as one of the musts in Venice. We knew that
St. Mark’s Square would be “open”, so we head over for some music. As we walked across the square, the orchestra was playing one of Andrea Bocelli’s songs. It was very apropos and moving. The perfect song for our friends’ last night in Venezia…almost as if the maestro knew. After a few sets, the hunt was on for gelato. We found a gelato stand close by with prices to match it’s location of being right on the square. Me: Pistachio and Limone. DH: Limone and Berry. Friends: Pistachio and Coffee. It was late and we head back to the inn where we were greeted by and met the last of LO’s fabulous crew: Igor.

DAY 3
Pinch ourselves…we’re in Venice!

October 13, Saturday

No rest for the wicked…..we’re up at the crack of dawn again (6:30am). (Are we nuts or what?) I can’t say that we aren’t tired, but the thought of missing Venice’s early morning scene makes us jump out of bed. This time we head to St. Mark’s Square first. No one is there. It’s a beautiful sunrise and I snap a dozen photos of the Campanile as the sun’s rays frame it. Each photo looks different. I’ve heard St. Mark’s called the “greatest drawing room in Europe”. That’s the truth.

We enjoyed yesterday’s vaporetto ride up and down the Grand Canal so much yesterday morning that we do it again. Line #1 on the way up, Line #82 on the way back. It’s a bit nippy out and we stand behind the operator’s booth to block the cold air. He is softly singing. We note that this operator is a much better singer than the last guy. Another operator soon joins him in the booth and now we have a duet going. I can’t resist and take out my camera which has a “movie” function. I do so very discreetly holding the camera low and aiming it up. I feel a bit guilty being so secretive, but this moment is too good to pass up. The other guy catches on that I’m recording them. I’m so busted. I motion “is it okay?”. He smiles and then they really ham it up.

We get off at the Rialto stop and go check out the markets. On the walk back to the inn, I notice an undescript church. Something about it calls out to me. We step inside and are awed. I wasn’t prepared for such an overwhelming feeling. I light a candle and continue to admire it’s beauty. We didn’t plan many church visits in our itinerary, only the SM Basilica (which we passed on) and Santa Croce in Florence. That will change from here forward. More of the same as we press on….cool alleyways, beautiful buildings. Back at the inn, we are welcomed with the smells of breakfast. We are happy to see our friends, grab a seat next to them and reminisce about our great evening the night before. We exchange email addresses and vow to stay in touch (which we do!). More conversations with LO crew: DH talks to Igor about music and classical guitar, I talk to GiGi about life in Italy and our plan for the day. Simple pleasures….

We have an 11:35 reservation for the Secret Itineraries tour at Doge’s Palace. We get cleaned up and off we go…..

Tip: Reservations fill up fast and there are only so many openings to go around…plan early if able. We whizzed by the lines and right in. Our group was about 15-20 people. Our guide did an outstanding job explaining the history of the palace and the Venetian empire. I’ve never been a history buff, but I was very interested. DH was a happy camper soaking it all in like a sponge. The palace is gorgeous and grand. The tour takes us behind the scenes to the secret chambers and torture rooms. Fascinating. The story about Casanova’s escape was intriguing. We were privy to the rafters and the weaponry collection in the attics. The tour lasts about 2 hours. We spent another hour touring the remainder of the palace (incredible art, palatial rooms, jail and bridge of sighs)…and we didn’t see it all. The higher floors offering such photo op’s of the canal and environs.

Bottom line…..Secret Itineraries Tour: A definite must and highly recommended.

Next stop: Dorsoduro. We wanted to see the Squero (Gondola workshop) which was very easy to locate. You can only view it from across the small canal. The architecture is very chalet-like….hence hard to miss. Two workers were busy moving supplies and such. I felt like we were in a scene out of the Willy Wonka/Charlie and the Chocolate factory movie when the kids first spot the Oompah Loompahs working across the chocolate river. Hee hee. We continued and walked along the Zattere Promenade which is on the Giudecca canal. This area was so peaceful and relaxing compared to the promenade on San Marco. It was enjoyable to explore the small alleys and walkways. I spied a trio of nuns walking towards us. As they passed, I snapped a behind shot of them walking towards the Giudecca. This would be another of my favorite photos of our trip.

We cruised around and came upon the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (one of the most photographed churches in Italy….and we can see why!). The exterior dome was under renovation and covered in scaffolding. This spot boasted excellent views of the popular San Marco promenade. We sat on the steps for a bit and took it all in. Breathtaking. Inside the Basilica we were (once again) blown away by the sheer beauty and serenity of these ancient churches.

Lunch break. We head towards La Zucca Ristorante http://www.lazucca.it/ in the San Polo district which has been on my list since we began planning this trip. I read reports upon reports about it’s mouthwatering squash dishes, pumpkin ravioli, etc. We thoroughly enjoyed the walk over. The route was very off-the-beaten-path as we barely ran into a soul. We found La Zucca (smack dab in the middle of nowhere, it seemed. I can see why many have a difficult time finding it) which, unfortunately was closed. The staff was cleaning up and we asked what time they opened for dinner. They were closed that night for a private party. And closed Sundays. Bummer….I was disappointed, but it’s more the reason to come back to Venice (which was already on the plan).

SAN POLO DISTRICT
Now I’m beginning to get really hungry and tired. I didn’t want to get cranky, but felt it coming on. We were in the middle of a residential area which was charming, but when hungry, it didn’t seem very charming. We finally stumbled onto Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio. This produced such smiles on our faces….not only were there cafes, but this area boasted such Venetian life. This campo was such a gem. Generations of families were gathered….chatting, laughing and watching the kids play soccer/ride scooters. Everyone seemed to know each other. We spied a small café with tables near “the action”, so we had a seat. I could feel my crankiness subside. It was a warm day and the sun felt good. After a hearty pasta lunch, we wandered around the small alleys nearby that were filled with excellent artisan workshops (a slew of maskmakers) which boasted gorgeous window displays of colorful, whimsical masks, dolls, etc. A gelateria was nearby, so we forced ourselves to partake. Flavors of choice: Me: Hazelnut, DH: Berry. Next was La Pedrera (bottega d’arte artigianale) a fabulous artisan boutique filled to the rim with great contemporary artwork, trinkets, etc. I found many small treasures (including a big treasure of an original contemporary watercolor of the canals/gondola done in a wonderful earthtone palette). This place was a find for gifts to bring home.

We wandered around for a couple hours and made our way back to the inn to freshen up for dinner. Plan: go to Bacaro’s (wine bars) for ciccheiti (Venetian tapas). Bancogiro and Naranzaria http://www.naranzaria.it/eng-home.htm in the Rialto area were on our list. When we got there, it was SO crowded. So much so that people were spilled out onto the square. Another small disappointment, but C’est la vie!

We ended up having a great meal right on the Grand Canal at Caffe’ Saraceno which we expected to be mediocre and overpriced (due to it’s location), but were pleasantly surprised. The views, service and meals were all fabulous. We started with a mista salad, shared a simple pasta and DH had grilled local fish ; me: calamari. We had a good (not great) bottle of Amarone vino. Price: 81E

The early mornings are catching up to us. We nix St. Mark’s orchestras and head (or crawl) back to the inn for a full night of ZZZzzz’s.

I will be in Venice in May, and am loving your trip report. Great details! I have printed out parts of it to take along with me. I'm staying at Corte Grimani, which I think is close to Locanda Oreseolo, so happy to hear it is in a good location.

Glad you had a great trip. Looking forward to the rest of your report.

what great timing! we're off to Venice for a week on Good Friday so I'm trying to soak up all the info i can. I've been before - the first time with DH over 25 years ago, and the last time about 18 months ago, but this will be the first time for our "kids" [rather large kids aged 20 & 17].

Anything you saw/did that you think they might like particularly?

Incidentally I particularly appreciated the descriptions of Venice in the early morning - last time I went to got up early every morning to watch Venice coming alive and this saturday I have an early appointment with the Rialto market. Fortunately our apartment is just over the bridge so i shouldn't have too far to carry my goodies.

What a fantastic and comprehensive trip report. I will save it for a future trip to Italy. I love the organization and sharing everything you learned and including what you would do differently!....that's awesome.

REST FOR THE WICKED…finally!
We wake at 6:30am AGAIN. However this time we decide to sleep in. Rest is crucial to tackle our last full day in Venice. ZZZzzzz. No alarms are set as we “wake up when we wake up”. Big mistake. It’s 11am when we wake up. Breakfast is no longer being served. Aaargh!

We quickly rise, get ready and bolt. We travel in the direction of La Fenice theater since we had enjoyed this area when we did the tour. We stop in a few artisan boutiques. One in particular which we highly recommended: Arca Teresa della Valentina Santa Croce 1811 Calle Tentor. This shop is located on a side street near the theater. The artist Teresa is on site working away creating unique works of art: ceramics, whimsy miniature dolls and bold/vibrant oil paintings. All gorgeous, each one different and at VERY reasonable prices. At one time I had a stack of a dozen framed 4 X 6 paintings (each priced at 10E) under my arm trying to decide which for who (gifts for friends). Our creative friends back home loved these unique treasures. I spent 45 min. here and DH (who is as patient as a saint) wasn’t being very “saintly”. I can’t blame him as I was starving too.

CAMPO S. ANZOLO
We continue on the path and take a few rights and lefts. We stumble upon a great square campo S. Anzolo. This will round out our “top three” list of fave squares. It was odd shaped and framed with odd sized/shaped buildings. We locate a bustling café’ on the corner with a window piled high with overstuffed paninis. Brunch here will make me feel better about missing our LO breakfast. This place is jam packed with locals…mostly standing and drinking their apertivo (lo spritz). You’ll notice the locals . with glasses of pale orange colored drinks…that’s lo spritz. We order up a couple paninis, bowl of fresh fruit and a try a lo spritz. We pay a service charge to sit at a table. Our first sip of lo spritz isn’t a good one. DH crinkles his nose. “It kinda has a medicine-y taste to it”, he says. My turn. Now I know what to expect, so anything will actually taste better. The more sips I took, the more I liked (not loved) it. It’s definitely an acquired taste. We joke as we’re eating our fruit bowl….”so this is what an Italian strawberry tastes like, an Italian banana, etc.” We’re in excellent spirits…..must’ve been all the ZZZzzz’s.

We discovered a gem of an antique shop tucked away nearby. I pop in and found a small metal statue of Venice’s winged lion and an old bound italian scrip of “Ridotto” with my adored clown Pulcinella on the cover. Great finds at a bargain price (15E total). I love perusing flea markets and antique shops so having small treasures just like these as mementos of our trip was gratifying.

PALAZZO GRASSI
This great palazzo filled with modern art was our next stop. From our rides on the vaporetto, we got a sneak preview by seeing the massive steel skull and the paper mache’ head perched outside the palazzo…hard to miss and pretty cool. Although I’m not a modern art aficionado, I’ve been anticipating this visit. We had already seen Guggenheim’s art collection and this would be another in the modern genre. I’m beginning to wonder if we should’ve just stuck to one contemporary collection and explore more Venetian art? Once I step inside, I know that this was the right choice. I wish they allowed photos. The palazzo itself with its massive marble columns and banisters was a gem in itself. The art here was sprinkled throughout the airy spacious rooms. A true juxtaposition of modern art meets old world Palazzo. Very avante-garde. The art collections rotate frequently. This collection coupled with the palazzo which housed it ranked way up there with me. DH: the jury is still out. Although there were many exhibits he liked, most of the bizarre stuff kept him thinking, “huh?”. http://www.palazzograssi.it/

RULE #1….DO NOT DO ART MUSEUMS BACK TO BACK
….more importantly, especially not on your last day in Venice. We decided to visit Ca’ Rezzonico (thx to the recommendation by Fodor’s Girlspytravel). This is an interesting peek inside a palazzo set up and furnished like how the Venetians once lived. Another example of a grandeur palazzo (aren’t they all?). We both enjoyed this visit and opted to do the audio tour. The audio version was very detailed and intense. I’d enjoy it more if I were more fresh and not already feeling information and art overload. I especially fell in love with the incredible art collection that the palazzo housed. That in itself is worth the visit. I was feeling now that we had a decent sampling of Venetian art to balance the modern art we’d already viewed. We’d highly recommend Ca’ Rezzonico.

OUR PERFECT AFTERNOON
It was already afternoon. I wish we hadn’t spent our entire last day in Venice sleeping late and in museums. We were in need of a snack and wanted to linger at one of our fave campos: San Stefano. So…off we went. Today being Sunday was a much different scene at San Stefano than previous days. We’d lunched here on our first day and managed to almost always pass through a couple times a day when en route just to savor it. The scene today: more locals out and about. Groups of them (all wearing black..for all you fashionistas out there!) together in cafés chatting away and drinking lo spritz. The servers would come out time and time again with trays of the pale orange liquid drinks. We grab a table and order a beer (DH) and local white soave (me). We don’t talk much, but instead quietly enjoy our last day in our fave square taking it all in. Gelato break: Paolin Gelateria….hands down our pick for the best gelato we’ve had in Venice. Me: hazelnut DH: limone

We wander the back alleys nearby once more and discover a grouping of artisan workshops. One is a small gallery/shop where the owner is working on masks. I ask permission to take photos. He is a master. We are enthralled by his craft and the quickness of his hands.
Watching an authentic maskmaker at work was an experience for us. I purchase one of his mini masks with the long beak (a steal at 10E) to display with my other mementos.

Thought of the day…
As our day is coming to an end I ponder if we would’ve loved Venice as much if we would’ve only spent a couple days here. The answer is…no. Most day trippers and those that stay for just a couple days don’t really get a chance to see Venice’s true essence. Maybe that’s not the way it is for all people, but most would just do the main “attractions”: St. Mark’s, Rialto Bridge, Gondola ride (during the day with hundreds of others), etc.

I wholeheartedly agree with many posters on this board that recommend 3 days or more. Don’t short change yourself. Give Venice her due….better yet, let her give it to you.

LOVE LOVE LOVE your report - what talent you have for remembering (I'm impressed) and describing. I also adored your food photos and, after seeing them, thought of you as a kindred spirit. I've been attracted to food, food markets, displays everywhere I've traveled in the world and have quite a collection to the point where my daughters say "Oh yeah, here's another one of Mom's food photos."

So excited ... we are leaving in less than 2 weeks. This is my third time in Venice but my first with my new(ish) husband and that adds to the excitement. I'm copying down your suggestions like crazy.

Thanks for your wonderful report---you clearly love Venice as much as I do! Was there in last year and am ending up going back in May, You found a favorite place (not far from Al Ponte Mocenigo where Istayed)---Campo Giacomo Dell' Orio. I fell in love with that place and how it felt early evening.

There were a few things you mentioned that I didn't do last time (secret tour thing)but will in May, thanks to your raves.

I have a huge memory capacity for (unnecessary) details. Being an overly sensory person I can easily recall the "feeling" that an experience has left me.

A good friend gave me a fancy arty journal before I left to record my thoughts. You can probably guess that not only was it too small, I only wrote in it the first day. My journaling was quickly jotted down as chickenscratch that only I could read. On pages of pages of scattered papers. It's been an experience in itself to put it in order and reflect while creating a trip report.

My scibbled notes and 2,122 photos (not counting the numerous ones which were deleted each day) taken on my digital camera has kept the memories alive and vivid.

kathrynj,
The secret is out about our "best little campo that could". (Campo Giacomo Dell' Orio). Glad to know that others loved it as much!

A question regarding your time in Venice. The hosts at LO recommended that we take a private guided tour of Venice during our 4 nights there in April. I had not planned on that, figuring that we would be able to enjoy Venice by seeing a few key things on our list, and then wandering with the help of fodorites like you, our map, LO's guidance, and some recommended walks from guidebooks and maybe Rick Steves' audio guides. You did not take a private guided tour - do you think it would have been helpful? Please keep in mind that we, unlike you, will not be rising at 6 AM, although we do plan to make it to every one of those breakfasts! So there won't be as many hours in our days as in yours!

Thank you so much for this trip report. I absolutely love it. I am going to Venice for the first time in Oct. 08 and some of the information in your report is invaluable. Your descriptions have made me even more excited about visiting Venice.

Loving this report - makes me remember how my first sight of Piazza San Marco on a warm autumn evening made me burst into tears. I love Venice and it sounds as though you managed to see how truly amazing it is, in spite of the hordes of tourists and commercialism.

Personally I think you have enough info to be able to tour Venice yourself without a guide. BUT, guided tours are great to give you a planned tour w/ insider's info/history you wouldn't get otherwise.

I guess the best advice I can give regarding your question is that will feel satisfied (based on your current plan and information you've gathered) by not taking a guided tour?

You will be able to see so much since you've got 4 days there.

I did a TON of research/planning and still had a very loose itinerary (besides plugging in the specific reservations). If you have a good map, you can create your own "tours" by breaking up Venice into its sections. ie. Dorsoduro: have a plan of what you'd like to see in this area and using your map you can see what else there interests you: I started out with something like this:

Then, you can map out which route to take to get there and hit a few churches, campos, etc. that are in it's path along the way.

We ended up doing the Guggenheim on day #1, but did our Dorsoduro "tour" on day #3. Our walk on the Zattare led to the Basilica di S. Mara della Salute. So we checked it out. And of course, leave wiggle room for wandering and exploring.

We covered alot of ground, but there was so much still left to see/explore.

During the planning stages, I was unsure about whether or not I was going to like Venice based on the fact that many (esp. on this board) either "Love it or Hate it".

Being a romantic, I wanted to really</> love Venice, but I was afraid I wouldn't.

I made sure to research and plan based on things that interest DH and I (can you tell I'm the trip planner in this partnership?). Attractions that I felt were going to inspire and move us took precedence over the "top ten" or "musts".

After taking this trip...it really is a matter of "beauty lies in the eye of the beholder".

DAY 4 (October 13, Saturday)
….our fabulous last supper in Venice and Gondola ride OUR LAST SUPPER IN VENICE
Since this was our last meal in Venice, we wanted it to be special. Naturally, the researcher that I am….there were about a dozen restaurants on the list to choose from. This would be our “official” Anniversary dinner (well, actually, we did one of those in every city we visited, but this would be our Venice version). We talked to friends who’ve been to Venice and they raved about Acqua Pazza. http://veniceacquapazza.com/ Which I’ll refer to as “AP” throughout the rest of this report. Our friends gave us a play-by-play on what they ate, drank, the works. They are foodies and outstanding cooks so they knew what they were talking about. So..AP it would be. I had emailed “our friends” at LO 2 weeks prior to our trip to make reservations for us at AP. We selected dinner (once again) early -7pm. We always opted for early dinner reservations since our plan was to catch a musical performance after dinner one of these evenings.
We’re back at the inn, get ready and off we go. AP is located in campo San Anzolo. When we get there, once again…we’re the first ones there (note….dinners at most places that accept reservations will begin at 7pm). I recall while doing my research that it stated that Venetians don’t eat late. I beg to differ. We have the choice of outside or inside dining. It’s a gorgeous night, so we choose outside.
Our gracious server speaks some English, so we’re able to use our broken Italian once again…yippee! The menu arrives and it’s in Italian. No prob…the server helps us on dishes we can’t make out. By 7:30, the place is packed. We made our choices and then took in the surroundings while waiting.
We decide upon tonight’s special: local fish for 2. This is where our Italian phrasebook came in handy…..DH and I joked about an Italian phrase in the book that stated, “we’d like something with no eyeballs”. Touche’. Before our meal was served, the waiter brought over a whole local (raw) fish called Breal/Dentex…eyeballs and all, for us to “approve”. Now, I’m expecting it to come out w/ “cooked eyeballs”. While waiting for our meal with eyeballs, we polish off a lightly breaded calamari appetizer. Yum. Our server comes over with a massive platter. It nearly takes up the entire table It’s our fish presented and filleted beautifully on a platter with thinly sliced grilled zucchini drizzled in olive oil (and not an eyeball is sight…phew!). At first we thought we’d never finish it all. It was enough food for 4 people. This meal melted in our mouths and we wiped the plate clean. Not a morsel in sight. It was washed down with a Supertuscan red vino. FABULOUS!
We struck up a conversation with the couple at the next table who just arrived in Venice that afternoon (lucky ducks). They had just finished their meals also. The waiter plops down a (complimentary) cold bottle of something brownish on our table with 2 small “shot-like” glasses. He does the same for the couple at the next table. Theirs is yellowish. Now it’s all coming to me. This is the localaperitivo liqueur which is customary in Venice (like the lo spritz). Aha…..I recall now our friends back home telling us something like “it was like milk of magnesia”….that was their aperitivo. Okey dokey….now’s a good time to bring up that DH and I aren’t coffee drinkers, never have nor never will be….we never acquired a taste for it. Bummer that we’re in Europe, the coffee (or should I say caffe’) capitol of the world. I envy those who can sit at a café’ with their tiny espresso or cappuccino. For us, it’s tea. In our bottle is a coffee-like liqueur. We try it, it tastes more like a cold chocolate w/ a bite of coffee. Not bad. I really want the yellow stuff at the next table. So, we trade. Aaahhh….Limoncello. This was our priciest meal of all, but worth it: 149E
I use the ladies room before we leave and the dining room is so cozy, yet bustling. Next time (because it’s been decided that there will be a next time!), we’ll dine indoors. GONDOLA….SHOULD WE, SHOULDN’T WE?
So, this is our last night in Venice and we haven’t yet had our gondola ride. During all the planning, the gondola ride was at the top of the list…that was one of our absolute “musts”…especially since we were here on our 10 yr anniversary and it was our first time to Venice.
I was very turned off by the gondolas on the first day seeing hordes of them filled to the brim with people. Not only were the gondolas packed, but the small canals were packed with gondolas. Alluring? NOT! Then there were the many people (me included) hanging over the bridges gawking snapping photos like the paparazzi. How romantic is that? I really hate to admit it, but it did have a very “Disneylandesque” appeal to it. I hate to say that since I found myself getting sensitive about it when it was discussed this way on these boards. Now that I’m here, I understand. It seemed so touristy, which I'm not against, since we're tourists but mostly...so unromantic.
I ask DH what he thinks. He feels the same way. I’m grappling with…how can we go to Venice on our anniversary and not do the gondola? We decide to sit on this one for awhile.
I hate goodbyes. We head towards St. Mark’s to say goodbye. I’m feeling a bit emotional tonight knowing that our time in Venice is coming to an end. From day one we were giddy and here, on day 4, we’re still giddy. Venice cast her magical spell over us (thank goodness!). I’m more happy that DH loves her as much as I do. I wasn’t sure in the beginning. If I had reservations, he usually has more.
St. Mark’s was just like we love it….uncrowded, music playing, no pigeons. Ahhhh…we swoon to a few songs. Another “must” I had on my list was Caffe’ Florian (next time..we’ll go inside and have a very expensive cup of tea. I remember that a Fodorite had described the interior like it as a “jewelry box”). Being located on the opposite side of the square, it had its own orchestra which we could barely hear. Every night we found ourselves on the opposite side where there were 2 orchestras “battling” back and forth. Goodbye St. Marks. It was a sad goodbye.
DH asks me….Gondola? The jury is still out, so off we go to the swanky Centrale Lounge. http://www.centrale-lounge.com/en/index.htm (another on my list). It was more NYC than Venetian, but was a hip place with it all: great music, art, vibe and ambiance. I was REALLY craving a Dirty Grey Goose Martini, but the vodka selection was a bit “low shelf”. So…”when in Rome”….we enjoyed a Lo Spritz (me) and Limoncello (DH). It was my last lo spritz in Venice. A night of “lasts”. We recap our amazing time here in Venice over a nightcap.
It’s nearing midnight and now or never for the gondola. We start our walk towards the gondola “station” located on the small canal Orseolo behind our inn. There are no hordes, no crowd. Just 2 gondoliers bundled up and a fleet of empty gondolas bobbing up and down. We decide to go for it!GONDOLA….IT’S A GO!
DH talks price w/ the gondolier. The price was more than we expected since we'd planned on 80E. It was 120E this time of night. We tried to negotiate, but it was what it was. What the heck....we did it. Our gondolier Roberto was fabulous. He took us down small canals, on the Grand Canal (with no other boat/gondola in sight). He told us stories, gave us history, etc. I teased him and asked what he was going to sing. He laughed. A few moments later he softly sang. It was absolutely perfect and utterly romantic. Taking the ride late at night with not another soul on the water was heavenly.
I can't imagine it any other way. It was peacefully romantic gliding down back canals with just the sound of the oar skimming the glassy water. So cliche’….but truly a memory to last a lifetime. It seemed like we were the only gondola on the water and….not a set of mickey mouse ears in sight!
(note: we felt that maybe we were ripped off, so we checked with our hotel the next day and they confirmed that late at night, the price 120E was fair)
We are on cloud nine and float back to our inn. Next…. Saying goodbye to Venice and hello to Florence!

GOOD MORNING VENICE
We wake fairly early and begin packing. I didn’t have a very sound sleep the night before knowing we’re leaving Venice today. Downstairs we go for our last breakfast at LO. We’re greeted by the smiling faces of Francesco and Bruno. We heard through the grapevine that Francesco is leaving for California within the next couple of months to work at the Marriott. We talk to him about it. A past guest was an executive with Marriott and offered Francesco a managerial job on the spot. That’s no surprise…this crew is exemplary. Geez, I’m going to miss this place. I find out that GiGi (he’s my fave of the bunch and Francesco is a close second) won’t be in today. I’m sad that I didn’t get to say goodbye. I make a mental note to email him when I get back home to thank him for his service and for our great talks.

We find a table and begin the food fest. The couple next to us is talking to another about how they just arrived last night (I think to myself….stop being so smug!). I’m very sad to leave. DH tries to start a conversation, I just want to sit quietly. Breakfast doesn’t taste as good as it did on the first few days….naturally, because it’s our last. I’m very sad. I get LO’s journal from the common room and begin composing my entry about our stay. Of course (as you can tell from this l-o-n-g report), it’s not the shortest entry in the book.

We’re all packed and are ready to check out. Bruno gives us a very detailed and short cut to the vaporetto station. We’re heading to the train station as we have 11:35 reservations to Florence. We hug Barbara, Francesco and Bruno. It was truly like saying bye to family. I’m fighting back tears. Last words…“See you soon”. After we get outside the door, DH gives me a big hug. Tears stream down my face. I ask DH, “Can we come back to LO”. “Absolutely”, he says.

We easily and quickly arrive at the Rialto vaporetto station. This shortcut through narrowed pssageways was the way to go…we bypass people and bridges. We load onto the vaporetto and glide down the Grand Canal for the last time. I’m fighting back tears once again. I feel like everyone is looking at me. They all know….we’re leaving.

Glad we did:
*made advance train reservations from Venice to Florence.
*bought our 3 day vaporetto pass at the airport info counter (you validate the pass at the machine at the vaporetto stand on your first ride).
*wake up early to see Venice come to life.
*gondola ride...late at night

Wish we did (on the list for next trip):

*La Zucca Ristorante (a must!)
*Spend more time eating cicchetti (Venetian tapas) at the bacaros (wine bars). Especially Bancogiro and Naranzaria.
*Islands: Torcello, Burano
*Musical Performance (this was one of our “musts’, but we never got the chance!)
*San Giorgio Maggiore (views at the top of the tower)
*Scuola di San Rocco
*Explore the Ghetto and Lido
*St. Mark’s Basilica
*Make dinner reservations later than 7pm
*Caffe’ Florian
*Drinks on the rooftop of Hotel Danieli
*lunch at Osteria alla Botte

"This is Venice" classic book series by M. Sasek (we're fans and our son has a collection of these from all over...ie. "This is New York", etc.)

"Gaspard on Vacation" GREAT series by Anne Gutman/Georg Hallensleben. This one outlines Gaspard's misadventures in Venice.

"Guido's Gondola" by Renee Riva and Steve Bjorkman. Excellent story of Guido the gondolier mouse.
I bought this for our son at the Ca' Rezzonico bookstore in EUROS. I came home and it was on amazon.com! Rats!

CHOO CHOO
We arrive at Venice’s Ferrovia (train station). It’s a bit out of place as it is modern and spiffy among Venice’s old buildings. There are stairs leading up to it. I don’t notice a ramp to wheel up luggage. Hmmm…poor design train station architects! This trip has been delightfully easy so far and the train station is another example of that. I made reservations in advance at the trenatalia train site: http://www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html I’m so glad we did this in advance….no confusion, fumbling or figuring out. We easily find our track and wait to board.

Once on the train we store our luggage in a holding area near the front of our car. We were on the Eurostar which the seats in the reserved section (cheapo seats) were configured as 4 (stiff) seats facing each other. We had window seats, so DH and I faced each other and two young Japanese girls sat next to us. DH is 6’1” and the headrest hit pretty low. Not the most comfortable of seating, but we’re not complaining. It would be a 2:37 ride to Florence. We took advantage of this time to look out the window and talk about our upcoming plan in Florence. We’ll get there just in time for lunch!

The party next to us got up about 30 minutes into the trip and we didn’t see them the rest of the time. We’re thinking they went to the café car. Lucky for us….we spread out and took out our planning material. Now is a good time to mention that I do 95% of the research/planning (which I don’t mind one bit…as a matter of fact, I prefer it). DH and I are very compatible travelers (it helps that he’s pretty easy going) and we like most of the same things. Although he likes all that technical guy stuff….I tolerate it, but some of it is quite interesting. During our planning/research journey, DH happily watched shows and read excerpts of stuff I gave him (especially of things that were totally up his alley). He’d chime in here and there, and I’d tweak accordingly. A couple weeks before the trip we sat down and spent a good few hours going over the plan I mapped out for us. Not really a play-by-play with times (unless we had a reservation), but a very loose day-by-day plan to give us a framework of how we’re to tackle our “must-sees”. We're not rigid travelers, so our plan always has a alot of wiggle room (when able) and room for spontaneity.

So here we are with 2 hours for him to read the plan. I was using my time experiencing Il dolce far niente, "the sweetness of doing nothing” while listening to my iPod and mindlessly reading.

Honestly, the 2:37 went by quickly. So here we are…in Florence!

FLORENCE

Firenze….the lively city and birthplace of Renaissance art. Venice was a hard act to follow, but we soon discovered the beauty of Firenze. And the food…..aaah!

Really enjoying your report. It's bringing back lots of lovely memories. Funny, I had the same impression of the gondolas in Venice. Way too many of them lined up the Grand Canal jam packed with riders. Yikes! I've visited Venice twice and still haven't done it. I'll go for late like you did, sounds great!

TRAIN STATION
We get off the train and notice how busy Florence’s train station is. We are in Florence for 2 nights and then off to Cinque Terre (which I’ll be referring to as CT). I had a difficult time figuring out how to use the Trenatalia site for tickets to CT, so we needed to get our tickets here. We checked out the ticket machines and the schedules and couldn’t find CT anywhere. There was a long line at the Information booth, but we decided to wait.

At the counter, we’re given the times and which train to catch. Since the schedules only show final destinations, there is no way we could know which trains actually pass through CT without getting assistance. So we schlep over to the ticket counter and buy our tickets (16.40E for 2-one way, Florence to Vernazza). We’re outta here…

VROOM VROOM
It’s nearing 3pm and we hail a taxi. We’ve reserved 2 nights at Suites and Viewhttp://www.2piazzasignoria.com/ which is run by the same group Residenzia d’Epoca InpiazzaDellaSignoria. We flew (literally) in our taxi. NYC taxi drivers have nothing on Florence drivers! They whiz through traffic of people, bicycles, scooters. DH’s first impression of Florence isn’t so great…he says, “It’s too crowded, too noisy, too busy,” etc. I love cities, so I was cool. But….Venice is a hard act to follow.

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
It took 10 minutes (tops) to get to Piazza della Signoria. Our room was right on the square….cool! We checked in (hence 3 narrow flights of stairs) at Residenzia d’Epoca clear across the square where are building/room was. The family that owns this group couldn’t be more accommodating and responsive. A month prior to our trip, I emailed them and they quickly reserved our Accademia, Uffizi and 2 dinner reservations for us. Did I mention how smoothly Florence is going also?

Suites and Views is a group of 4 rooms w/ small kitchenettes (which we didn’t use) in a residential type building with a fab location right on Piazza Signoria (and a stone’s throw from the Uffizi). One of their guys help us schlep our luggage across the square and up 2 flights of stairs. The room was much smaller than what appeared on the website (which the panoramic images made it look huge!), but it was clean and nicely appointed. We had a busy couple days here in Florence, so there wasn’t time for much hanging out in the room anyway.

On the counter was a bottle of prosecco chilling in an ice bucket, 2 champagne flutes and a beautiful handwritten note congratulating us on our anniversary…sweet! We’re starving, so we’re off…..
I’ve read about how the food in Venice pales in comparison to Florence…..and that’s the truth. I’ll tell you more about that later.

BRING IT ON...LUNCH
I read about Cantinetta dei Verrazzano from Fodorite Ekscrunchy (whom we also give credit to for our great meal at Il Guscio on night #2). It was very easy to find on a side street in the heart of Florence.

One thing was for sure….Florence is so easy to navigate and so compact. DH agreed. I had another “Red Map” (love them!) for Florence. This was our first meal in Florence and boy, it didn’t disappoint.

This is more of a casual deli/bacaro (wine bar). We knew this was the spot when we eyed an inviting table for 2 on the street and the sumptuous foccacia in their deli case. Verrazzano is an ancient chianti wine producer (that was an added bonus).

We were warmly invited in and had the pleasure of a very charming waiter who took very good care of us. His famous words…”Aaahhh, I know exactly what to bring you”. And that he did! He kept our table filled with plates of local pecorino cheese w/ hot pepper jelly, steaming hot focaccia laced with tomatoes/basil and green olives, aged pecorino with thinly sliced pears, marinated peppers and eggplant, etc. Each “course” served with a different chianti (riserva to classico) by the glass (we had 6 total between us).

Lunching outdoors at Cantinetta was a perfect introduction in to the city. It was all feeling, smelling, tasting sounding just how I thought Italy would be. The street was just busy/quiet enough to be enjoyable. Our tummies were full and we were blissful. We had nowhere to be, but right here. We loved being in the moment savoring Firenze. (note: this was another first day and, just like Venice, we didn’t really have a concrete plan. First days were for us to wander, get our bearings and soak in the new city. This approach worked perfectly for us.)

This is also where my love affair with vintage Euro bicycles started. I wanted to bring one home…the older, the rustier, the better! A woman rode by with a toddler in a front carrier and an older child on the back.; an Italian signora dressed in a short skirt and heels rode by with a cigarette in one hand and cell phone to her ear, an older gent dressed in a tweed suit rode by with 2 fluffy dogs in baskets…one on each side of his back wheel. It was like a show and we had front row tickets!

I mentioned it was time for a gelato across the way, our charming waiter said, “no, no, no….let me take care of you”. And he did it again. This time with a sampling of buttery tarts: citrus, dark chocolate grenache’ and pear. Delizioso!

You can only imagine that this was not an inexpensive experience…but a splurge that was so well worth it (62E…lunch, 6 glasses of vino, dessert).

WANDERING AND THE DUOMO
Next we wandered and checked out Florence. The place is definitely a shopping mecca. Hmmmm…next time, girls shopping trip! When we turned the corner and saw the Duomo for the first time, we stopped in our tracks. We were in awe. Both of us had no idea how the sight of the Duomo would affect us. I’ve seen pictures of it dozens of times, but nothing could compare to being in its presence. Bellisimo!

The church bells were pealing and it was all surreal. DH was almost finished reading “Brunelleshi’s Dome”, so we decided to save that visit for our last day in Florence and in Italy (3/27).

GELATO GALORE
It was hard not to notice the gelato in Florence. Every gelateria had colorful mounds of gelato piled high (definitely, the “bigger is better” approach) in it’s glass cases. Wow! I can’t wait to sink my teeth into that!

I have to say that I can understand why gelato is so popular in Italy. Besides the fact that it’s fabulous, I’m not wild about any of the other Italian sweets. Since I don’t favor coffee, Tiramisu is out. Everything it seems is either custardy or mousse-y. Back home there is such variety: chocolate, cakey, tart, fruity, etc. That’s fine with me….I can eat gelato morning, noon and night.

It’s now late afternoon and we have 9pm dinner reservations that night at La Giostra. …I can’t wait. We wander a bit more, hang out and check out the statues in our Piazza. Next, we head to our room, unpack a bit and clean up for dinner.

LA GIOSTRA....a night to remember!
La Giostra Ristorante was touted as being a touristy, pricey place which is more of a scene than a typical Tuscan ristorante. Right up our alley! We like to mix it up..and try some of it all. Although we’re huge fans of “mom and pop” authentic dining, doing it for 19 days would be tiresome. This would be our spluge “anniversary” dinner in Florence.

We had a 9pm reservation. This place is so popular that they expanded by adding another dining room located in another building. While we waited for our table we were offered complimentary everflowing prosecco and engaged in conversations with others waiting.

Our table was ready at 9:45. I’m told they have 2 seatings: 7pm and 9pm. After dining here, I don’t blame the 7pm crowd for not wanting to leave! This place was a scene which was very entertaining….tables filled with beautiful people, noisy chatter, good energy. Not quite a romantic setting, but our table for 2 next to the fireplace was cozy and romantic.

I immediately spot the infamous “Prince” chef all decked out in his signature style (white chef outfit and hat over his long white locks). I’ve seen him on a few Food Network shows. He exuded charm and elegance.

Our server came over and he was efficient, not overly charming (especially compared to Mr. Prince). We decided to splurge on a nice Brunello di Montalcino vino. We began our food fest with an exotic mushroom salad, next grilled burrata cheese w/ truffle shavings and finished with a roasted chicken platter.

The server brought out a complimentary appetizer platter chock full of tasty (and untasty bites). The Prince came over and told us about everything on the platter. One of the items was donkey meat. He was as charming as he looked.

Our server brings over the wine and artfully decanted it. It was good, but not fabulous (for the price).

Next came our mushroom salad which had rare and local mushrooms. Over comes the Prince who begins to tell us stories about mushrooms and how they’re an aphrodisiac. He takes a white truffle out of his pocket, invites us to take a whiff and proceeds to shave it ever so thinly over our salad. He is enchanting us and treats us like we’re the only guests in his restaurant. He stays at our table for awhile telling us more stories…stories that only he could pull off. We laugh, we drink more wine and begin eating our mushroom salad. Every forkful with a subtle taste of white truffle flavoring it. It tastes like heaven. DH and I are in heaven. We couldn’t wait to see what the rest of our meal would have in store for us.

Next comes the grilled burrata cheese with truffles. This dish had the brown truffles shaved on it. Before you know it, the Prince is back at our table shaving white truffles once more, telling us more stories, entertaining us fully. We’re ready to tell him to pull up a chair and bring out their best wine (not!). Can this night get any better? We’re savoring this dish. Five months later, I can still taste it.

Finally our main course of roasted chicken comes out. It’s fabulous. We wait for the Prince to come back, but alas…no truffles on the bird! He looks over and gives us a wink. We pry ourselves away from the table to leave. We don’t want to go and consider maybe coming back once more before we go. Decadent dinner for 2: 144E (entertainment included!)

Adven.seek., I am really enjoying your report! The mushroom salad in Florence sounds yummy. I also have enjoyed your pictures--especially the bike collection. I have one of those "old fashioned" bikes with basket on the front. I use it for whizzing around town on errands (groceries, p.o., library, etc.)--no parking problems, no carbon foortprint, no noise pollution. Of course, during our winter ( seems endless this year), I don't have snow tires, so have to go back to walking.

We mosey over to breakfast in the common room (which is at the main inn across the Piazza). With a full day ahead, we’re hoping to breeze in and out. When we arrive we are asked to sit at the main table (which has seating for 12) with other guests who are already seated. I already don’t like the looks of this. A server comes around and offers us beverages. One by one the dishes come out….family style. We’re passing the fruit, pastries, meats and cheeses around the table. We feel obligated to sit and engage in conversation. After a few pleasantries, I kick DH’s leg…we’re outta here. Needless to say, we’re won’t be having breakfast here tomorrow.

THE ONE AND ONLY DAVID
We have an 11am reservation at the Galleria dell’Accademia which is located away from the main city center. Since Florence is compact, this just means a short walk away. Just like Venice, we take shortcuts and different routes to see more of the city. I’m loving it here, DH is warming up to it.

We easily find the Accademia which is oddly located on a nondescript side street. Of course, there are lines. We go up to the usher at the front and show him our reservation and he puts us right in the front of the “group tour” line. We breeze on in. Slam dunk! Reservations is the way to go. Reminds me of the genius “Fast Pass” system at Disneyland (No, I’m absolutely NOT comparing Italy to D-land. …No comparision whatsoever).

The Accademia is smaller than I imagined. There is a musical instrument exhibit which we check out. And then we enter David’s room. He is at the very end of the hallway. WOW! As we get closer, we know we’re in the presence of greatness. The David statue is a stunning masterpiece. We spent nearly an hour gazing at him. We find ourselves moving and staring from different angles to take in every inch of him. Michelangelo was a true renaissance. To have created this amazing work of art was pure genius. Boy, how I wanted to sneak a photo (no fotografias!), but had to engrave this moment in our memory forever.

There is a very cool digital imaging “machine” near the David where you can study sections of this masterpiece. That was fascinating to do. I can’t imagine a trip to Florence without seeing David. Now we can see why he is simply called: David or The David. Like Oprah, Madonna, The Donald…no surnames necessary….he’s a celebrity, just in class by himself.

WHEELS AND BOOKS
We meander down a new street and stumble across a bicycle biccicleta shop. In the window is a fancy schmancy black Euro bicycle. DH and I look at each other and then walk on in. We talk to the shop guy about shipping a couple bikes home. He says it’s pricey. We vow to check out Ebay and importing sources when we get home. Wouldn’t it be cool to cruise around back home on Euro bikes?

As we cruise on further, we wander into a small used bookstore on a side street where the owner spoke only Italian. He was a true gentleman impeccably dressed in a wool suit and tie. It was clearly obvious that he took immense pride in his shop. He was very professional and serious, however, over time he warmed up. While in this fine shop for an hour, we were engaging in one of our most enjoyable chats in broken Italian/English.

After 15 min. or so, he was pulling books off the top of stacks that were to the ceiling asking how to say this or that in English. We walked out with warmed hearts and smiles on our faces. Under our arms were my prized find….a hardback copy of Jane Austen’s “Pride and Predjudice” in Italian (this now became my new quest…any place we visit I want to bring home a copy of P & P in the native language). DH had his own prized finds: a collection of vintage Italian aeroplano magazines and paperback picture books (our son will go nuts!). Heavy, yes…but they had a home in our luggage.

The best part of this experience was the shop owner’s own genuine smile and handshakes as we were leaving....priceless.

By now, DH is liking Florence.

GOT (AUTHENTIC ITALIAN) PIZZA?
Lunch time….we’re famished. We head back towards the city center to lunch at Il Pizzaiuolo (on Via de Macca, south of Piazza de Ambrozzio). We’re read about the owner who emigrated from Naples and brought with him the city's ancient trade secrets and the plans for a huge brick oven.

This place is cool…cozy, bustling and perfumed with tomatoes and basil. The pizza master was in the back slinging freshly made pies loaded with slabs of thick white mozzarella (none of that plastic-y shredded stuff we get back home!) This is the real McCoy!

Back home the American way was to order a whole pizza (sliced up in 8 or so slices) and share it. Not in Italy. I love how they do pizza (and they’re the Godfathers, so we should all take note!). Pizzas here are one per person (and they aren’t those mini or personal pan size either). They’re about the size of a medium pizza and are NOT sliced. You take a fork and knife to it. Sign me up!

Well….we didn’t know this at the time, so we ordered one classic Margharita and salad (to share…which is really a no-no in Italia. And NEVER ask for a doggy bag!). Our Italian friends back home told us that in Italy it’s pizza and birra (beer)…that’s the marriage and that’s how it’s eaten. Besides being a non-coffee drinker, I’m also a non-beer drinker. So…DH gladly orders up a local brewsky and I have a ½ carafe of local red.

We toast to a great meal and excellent first full day in Florence. Cost: (a deal)…20E

(Note: although the Italian way to add on the service charge (service, bread, table) called coperto, we always leave an extra 1-2 Euros on the table….and it’s always very appreciated.)

Now it’s time to make a dent in those mounds of gelato. I order up hazelnut and pistachio. DH: melon and berry. The verdict: way better than Venice with a price tag to match.

Next…a fabulous afternoon in Florence: the cool Euro cars, majestic Santa Croce Church and another great dining experience…this time at Il Guscio!

New love affair……EURO CARS
I’m still snapping away at photos of bicycles when I begin to notice these cute Euro Cars…you know those little ones you can put in your pocket! So, I begin snapping away. I notice the Ape trucks. But…it’s the Fiat 500 that has my heart. I want one! Add that to the wish list with the vintage Euro bike.

PASSEGGIATA (Strolling Italian Style!)
Gelato in hand (doesn’t it seem like you walk faster this way?), we walk towards the Arno river and environs. We enjoyed strolling alongside it while watching the locals rowing and sunbathing (living la dolce vita!) on this river packed with rich history.

We sat on the wall for a bit taking it all in. The lush hillside was breathtaking with trees and villas popping out all over. I wish we had more time to explore nearby Fiesole and the areas surrounding Florence. The Ponte Vecchio was yet another masterpiece.

SANTA CROCE CHURCH</bu>
We make our way towards Santa Croce Church. It is located at the end of a very large square (probably to make room for the many people who want to gaze at her). Breathtaking and huge! This area was bustling with people….not overly crowded since it’s a large area.

I notice a few shops to the side I wanted to check out, so DH takes a seat (like many) on Santa Croce’s (which I’ll refer to as SC) steps. I come out of the shops empty handed and we make our way in SC.

We are blown away at the sheer size of this church’s interior. We get an audio tour to share which was well worth it. We began the tour outside in its lovely courtyard. There is so much to see here and we had no other place to be until dinner tonight (8pm reservations)….so we took our sweet ol’ time.

The church was a museum in itself with gorgeous frescoes, paintings and sculptures. DH and I commented numerous times how glad we were to have selected this church to tour.
Michelangelo and Galileo tombs are housed here. After seeing David, it was appropriate for us to offer an “extra special” homage to the master himself. Michelangelo’s tomb was “protected” by 3 statues. Each one an angel representing his many talents: architecture, painting and sculpting.
Awe-inspiring. We were literally blown away by this majestic church and spent nearly 2 hours here. A definite must!

OINK OINK
It’s late afternoon and we head back. We search out the Mercado Nuovo and rub the snout of the lucky pig (Il Porcellino) because we want to come back! We walk around the stalls and scope/buy an Italian soccer shirt for our son. We’re looking for scarves for Mom and Grandma….I spy a few shops of interest, we pop in and pick out a couple we know they’ll love. I also find a pink/taupe Burberry knock-off scarf that my teen niece will love….especially with the “Made in Italy” tag. Besides a couple bracelets and the mini artisan paintings from Venice, we still have some major gift shopping to do. At least now we can cross off 3 more off the list!

The sun is setting and we need to clean up for dinner tonight. We were hoping to go to Piazzale Michelangelo for the sunset, but alas…..that will have to wait until our last night in Italy (surely, another dramatic goodbye).

IL GUSCIO and the Americanos!
Dinner tonight is at Il Guscio….located at the end of the Oltarno district. (Once I read Fodorite Ekscrunchy’s review, we had to dine here). We’ve got the time and are happy to walk. Before we embark on our walk, pop goes our bottle of prosecco. We make a few toasts and have a few glasses. Before we know it, the bottle is empty. This will make for an interesting walk.

We begin our stroll to the ristorante…through the Uffizi courtyard, by the Arno and over the Ponte Vecchio. It was a beautiful night. We’re enjoying our long walk thanks to the bubbly. It’s a journey in itself with scooters whizzing by past great boutiques and art galleries/workshops. Many of the shops were closed. This is the part of town which is right up my alley. …Next time!

We finally make it to our destination. I read that Florentines dine late and here it is 8pm and there is only one other table with customers. We get our table and are enjoying the ambiance. Our pleasant server comes over and doesn’t speak much English. The menu isn’t in English. No prob. We’re happy to figure it out.

Part of the experience that we’ve loved in Italy is the culture and the people. We made every effort to speak Italian and were surprised with how well we did (DH had some Spanish way back in high school, so he was able to figure a lot out since it’s a romance language like Italian) and how much we learned. It truly goes a long way with the service you get when you try to fit in. We felt it was showing respect.

By 8:30, the place is packed. We decide on another Brunello di Montalcino. Thus far, we haven’t been blown away by any of the Italian wines we’ve been drinking. I’ll go into more of that later.

We start with a salad and roasted garlic/onion pasta. Both are good. We look around and notice that every table is filled with lively, happy locals. We’re the only Americanos in the joint!

At the next table I observe a group of 6…one of which is the Italian “Jack Nicholson”. He has it all: looks, charm and even looks like Jack. They’re making a lot of noise especially after Jack speaks. He’s got a captive audience (us included).

The wine is good, not great. We’ve heard about how amazing these Brunellos are. I’m sure like any wine…some good, some great. We’re in Italy and want to be blown away. We’re not wine snobs by any means, but we know what we like. We live near Santa Barbara wine country which produces some killer stuff. Maybe I’m just a California wine gal at heart??? I really want to be an Italian wine gal! We still have a week in Tuscany, so maybe there the love affair w/ Italian wines will begin…so, I hope.

DH’s main course is an iron bowl filled with every seafood imaginable. He’s in heaven. Mine: a decadent Branzino Griglia (grilled seabass) topped with artichokes, olives and pine nuts. The food is outstanding. The ambiance outstanding.

Next we’re asked about desserts (dolci). I’m thinking gelato. We take a peek at the menu. I’m already guessing: mousse-y, custard-y. I’m pleasantly surprised that there are some great choices. DH chooses the vin santo w/ biscotti. Me: chocolate grenache’ cake drizzled in choco sauce w/ a scoop of vanilla bean gelato. Cost 105E (we think a bargain esp. since the vino alone was 40E).

We’ve got a bottle of prosecco and now a bottle of Brunello in us. Before we leave, I boldly go over to “Jack’s” table. I tell him that he looks like Jack Nicholson…the Americano movie star. The table roars. Jack is soaking it all in….proudly (just like Jack N. would). One of the other men at the table (who looks more like a conservative CPA type with glasses) quickly points to himself and says, “Bruce Willis”. We all get a good hearty laugh. What a great night!

LCBoniti,
I'm still trying Italian vino. I guess it's a matter of numbers! We did have an amazing Nobile di Montepulicano that we brought some home.

impeachie,
Besides the iPod, We had a small battery operated unit with speakers (close in size, but smaller than a brick) that we used while in the room. I also made a mix on 2 CD's in case our car or rooms has a player.

Most music was from our CD collection or iTunes:

*Andrea Bocelli
*Vivaldi
*Pavarotti

The best mixes I find are from Pottery Barn:
*Cafe Lounge (I play this to death)
*Mediterranio

From the last post: Il Guscio Ristorante: http://www.il-guscio.it/index_engl.htmlUFFIZI
We wake up without a hangover (surprisingly). Today’s agenda: Uffizi Museum. We have 8:45 reservations. We opt to not have breakfast with “the family” (ha!). While DH is figuring out how we do the reservations at Uffizi, I head over to Rivore Café for a cup of hot chocolate (which is really liquid chocolate), tea and a couple croissants to go. This place is a gem. I almost hate to leave, but DH wouldn’t be to happy if I hung out while he was waiting in line.

There are lines galore at Uffizi. I read that with reservations you go to the office on the right (if facing the Arno) to get your tickets. DH did that and was standing now in the “group tour” line. There was so much confusion because nothing is marked. Many with reservations kept coming up asking the ushers the same questions: where do we…., how do we….. Too bad they don’t have better signage. We were even instructed differently by 3 different ushers. Oh well, at least we’re not in the l-o-n-g queue.

We finally get in. It’s like a maze in here. This way, that way, up these stairs. Very confusing. Not user friendly at all. We were somewhat prepared for that after reading many reviews. The ceilings are lovely. We used Fodor’s and DK’s Top Ten Tuscany guidebooks to get a feel for the layout and the “musts” here. That’s how we tackled it room for room.

We didn’t stop and look at every piece of art, just did a scan of what grabbed us and explored that piece. Also, making sure that we paid special attention to the “musts” outlined in our guidebooks.

We could easily see how overwhelming this visit could be. We limited ourselves to 1 ½ hours max. This was an incredible art collection. I would love to learn more, come back and give renaissance art it’s due. We went to the snack bar to get a water and the terrace boasts amazing views of the Signoria tower and the duomo. Definitely worth a peek.

We had to pack and catch a train to Cinque Terre.

CINQUE TERRE OR BUST!
Buckle up…we’re back in the taxi heading for the train station. No tears….we’re not so sad this time since we’ll be back in Florence for another night at the end of the trip.

We easily find the track number for our train. Our train is the “milk train” which isn’t all spruced up and sleek. It has graffiti and is in need of some TLC. Once inside, it’s run down, but not so full so we can spread out. It’s about a 3 hr ride to Vernazza (incl a train change in La Spezia) We actually enjoy this train ride much better than the last. The seats are worn, but they’re not as stiff as the other. The trip takes us through more countryside. It’s quite lovely.

We stop at La Spezia. This is where we will get off on our return trip to pick up our rental car. We heard the horror stories about driving around Florence, so we thought picking the car up in La Spezia (which it wasn’t….I’ll go into that nightmare later) would make for a nice road trip and stop in Pisa would be nice.

I know that La Spezia is 30 minutes away from CT….I’m getting butterflies in my tummy. I’m REALLY looking forward to this leg of our trip. The train to CT arrives shortly….we easily board and we’re on our way.

The train rounds the corner and the sea is on our left. We’re seated on the right. I takeover an empty group of seats on my left and put down the window. I can smell the sea. Yes, I look like the “total tourist” standing up with my camera out the window snapping shots….I don’t care. DH is watching me with a smile on his face. He knows how much I’ve been looking forward to this.

We round another corner and I see the first colorful buildings of Riomaggiore. Aaahhh!
At first when I was researching CT on the boards I was in awe of those who could rattle off the 5 names…Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso Al Mare. Bam, Bam, Bam. I finally graduated and was among those ranks. I’ve been anticipating this moment for a very long time.

Since we’re planning a lot of hiking and outdoor time while in CT, I religiously checked Accuweather.com’s 15 day forecast on all the places we were traveling too. For awhile there, Venice was showing rain…but the closer it got to our trip, it showed sunny weather. CT was showing clouds and showers. Yuck! I was glad that while checking Accuweather on CT from our inn’s computer in Florence, it was showing no rain. Phew! We’re getting showers in Tuscany, but that’s okay by me. Rain in Tuscany?…..Being holed up in a tuscan stone cottage with a warm fire and glass of wine is perfectly okay by me.

The sea looks like a blend of turquoise and sea green. We stop in Riomaggiore, next Manarola, then Corniglia, next Vernazza. I have my head and camera literally out the window at every stop (and in between). I can’t believe we’re finally here. I’m excited as I was when we arrived in Venice.

I look around and many of the folks on the train look like hardcore backpackers. They have luggage that they can carry on their backs. They have hiking poles.

We arrive in Vernazza. It’s about 3:33pm. On the plan we had an optional hike up to the Surroundings above Vernazza. I’m not feeling it right now. We get off and go immediately to the Nationale Parco office right at the station. We immediately buy our park pass. Don’t want to hassle with it tomorrow.

THE IDYLLIC LA MALA INN
Our inn is La Mala inn http://www.lamala.it/en/index.html which I have recommended all over this board. Our instructions are to call the inn when we arrive and we’ll be greeted at the station and our luggage assisted up to the inn.

We don’t follow the directions and head into town. How hard can it be? I already love this town. But, it’s not really a town. From the train station you walk down a flight of stairs and the main alley snakes around until you reach the harbor. It’s small, picturesque and is lined with enotecas, boutiques, cafes’. We’re in absolute love.

We continue down until we come to a colorful building with an ad for La Mala with a bell. I ring the bell. From 3 flights above, a woman with wild reddish brown hair peer out the window and yells down to us. Meet Mama Jamba. She’s the inn’s owner. She sends down her strapping young son Gamba (yes, it’s Gamba Jamba…we think). He’s mid-20ish and is fashionably dressed in Dolce & Gabbana labels. He easily slings my luggage over his shoulder and we follow…up the main street and we cut up a series of stairs..up, up, up. I think it’s like 83 steps. Thank goodness there are perches where you can rest.

Can't wait to hear about your stay at La Mala and Vernazza! That was our favorite destination in our 3 week trip to Italy last February. I'll always remember the midnight views from Room 31 at La Mala--little fishing boats bobbing on the water under a full moon--just as it has been done for years and years! And what fun to watch the town come to life during breakfast in the little cafe by the harbor--looking forward to your reading your report!

You are our kindred soul. We, too, have great memories of Burgus cafe and bar.

Could you believe the moon there? I swear one night we looked out of our stone window and saw this large crescent shaped moon so large that we felt we could reach out and touch it. I took a photo, but alas doesn't do it justice.

Maybe I should hush and we can keep La Mala all to ourselves.

Vernazza has a permanent stamp on our hearts....forever.

P.S. Small world...Aloha! I'm actually from Hawaii (originally). We're leaving in 3 days for the Big Island and Oahu.

NOTE: we have one more day in Florence before we leave (10/28). Stay tuned…..we do the Duomo, climb to the top, visit the Museo Duomo, eat the best gelato in our entire stay and go to Piazzale Michelangelo to say goodbye.

Wish we did (for the next trip): Fiesole, Science Museum, Oltarno (artisan workshops and cool boutiques), rent bikes, shop more, Cooking class with Faith Willinger, walking history tour with Artviva tours, Fra Angelico at the San Marco, Pitti Palace and the Boboli gardens (our list is so long, we have to go back and stay longer!)

Glad we did: museum reservations in advance (a must!...glide right by the lines), dinner reservations in advance, climb to the top of the duomo, Piazzale Michelangelo, dine at La Giostra, and Il Guscio.

Just a note about hotels: we wanted to stay at Tourist House Ghiberti or Alloro B & B. Both were already booked. We chose our inn based on location which being smack in the heart of the city proved to be the perfect choice for us. Our last night in Florence, we stayed at Il Residenzia Villino. This place is a gem. We highly recommend it. Owner Sergio goes over and beyond to make sure your stay is fabulous. Reasonable prices too. http://www.ilvillino.it/home.cfm

*Our new (best) friends from Canada…they became our partners in adventure and crime!

*Hiking, Hiking, Hiking

*Getting lost in the Italian Pine Forest

*The charming picturesque town of Vernazza

*Da Piva’s Trattoria: the food, the music, the locals…a MUST!

*The regional food: mouthwatering focaccia, pesto to die for, seafood

*CT’s white wine and limoncino (their version of limoncello)

*La Mala Inn….the perfect inn in a perfect town

*Burgus café and bar….a great place with it all: vibe, art, tunes and local flavor.

*excellent shopping…I picked up fabulous gifts from here!

*and last, but certainly not least….Antonio the town fixture and Casanova!

DAY 7 (October 17, 2007 Wednesday

We walk in……

IDYLLIC LA MALA INN
La Mala Inn……We’re blown away. A contemporary, sparkling clean gem of an inn with great attention to detail located in this charming town of Vernazza. All this wrapped up in a traditional Ligurian house with a gorgeous stone terrace looking out to the sea.

This place rocks. As we walk in, we are greeted with a gallery on the wall of black and white arty photos of Vernazza.

When viewing the website, it was the stone terrace (shared by all guests) that sold me. I could envision spending a lot of time here winding down after a long hike, a place to have a sunset drink and a place to reflect.

We walked in and I’m giddy. Our room is #26 (which can accommodate 3 people). The all white room and modern bathroom were both very spacious which gave a nice backdrop to the azure sea and sky.

The main room had 3 x-large windows with crisp white roman shades that flooded the room with sunlight. We could crawl out the windows (which we did) onto the terrace. We loved our room....completely private with no adjoining walls (to the other rooms) only a room upstairs which we didn’t hear a peep out of during our entire stay.

We had a bonus room downstairs complete with daybed closet, fridge (with complimentary gift of a couple beers and waters) and window cut out in the stone wall that overlooked the sea. This worked out perfectly for us....we set up our luggage and clothing in this bonus room which kept our main room uncluttered.

The elements used in this inn spared no expense. The x-large casement windows closed airtight for privacy and opened 2 ways (swung open and cracked open at the top) so you can hear the ocean at night. The bathroom fixtures and water pressure were excellent.

I could stay here forever. Does this place really exist? Forget about the outdoors, I could stay here indoors and be perfectly happy…except I may sneak out onto the terrace from time to time. If the forecast calls for rain…it’s quite alright.

La Mala isn't the cheapest place in Cinque Terre (our room: 150E a night during low season…there are 2 rooms that are smaller and less expensive), but you'll get your money's worth and more!

Next….Incredible Sunset (the first of 3) in Vernazza and mouthwatering Pesto Lasagna at Saldarno’s.

PICTURESQUE VERNAZZA
We unpack a bit and are looking forward to our upcoming 3 nights at this inn. We checked out the terrace which had a front row seat to the sea. Time to explore this picturesque town!

We walked down the 83 steps that spills right onto the heart of town. We love this place. I knew it was going to be fabulous, but wow!

WHAT'S NEW PUSSYCAT?
At the bottom stairs is a trio of cats. There is a rug which they lay on. This trio is the most pampered and photographed residents of all Vernazza (which I’ll refer to as V throughout the rest of this report).

We see so many gato (cat) throughout CT that I dedicated a whole photo gallery just to them!

It’s late afternoon and by now, the daytrippers have gone and the town has thinned out. I spy a couple boutiques and enotecas that I can't wait to check out, but the sunset is calling us.

We take a short walk to V’s charming harbor. People are gathered at cafes sitting at tables w/ umbrellas. Others have found their place on the rocks to watch the sun go down.

We spy a café/bar spills right onto the harbor. People are gathered outside chatting away. We recognize the name of this place: Burgus Café’and Bar. This is where La Mala has given us coupons for breakfast in the morning. DH and I are in need of a glass of wine to toast our first V sunset. We mosey on in.

Burgus is very small and narrow with seating for about 6. Most folks just go in, order and bring their drinks outside. It's a very social kinda place with excellent design elements: a mix of teak, glass and stone. It also has great vibe, tunes and art. I can already tell I’m going to love breakfasts here.

The place is busy and the counter is lined with wines to order by the glass. We both choose CT’s very own white wine. It’s actually quite good and a bargain at 3E a glass.

CINQUE TERRE SUNSET
We walk closer to the water and find a rock to sit on. A nearby fisherman is catching his dinner. Colorful boats are bobbing. The sea is blue-green crystal clear. In shallow areas you can see the pebbles on the bottom. We look back at the town of Vernazza with its buildings all awash in corals, gold, greens and ochre.

The sky turns a brilliant orangey pink. It’s a gorgeous sunset in CT. A very nice welcome indeed.
DH goes back for a second round of vino. We chat w/ a local (he’s a National Park shuttle driver during the day and Burgus regular by night) and ask for recommendations for dinner. He tells us the best food is closest to the train station (after 3 dinners in this area, we’re happy to report…he’s right on!).

We see Gamba and his entourage of strapping Italian lads decked out in fashion labels are here with a pack of cute Italian gals. He recognizes us and gives us a nod. Indeed, a tough life in a fishing village!

PESTO LASAGNA...TO DIE FOR!
We’re past hungry. We follow the local’s advice and head away from the harbor for dinner. We decide on a ristorante called Da Sandro and grab a table outside. We’re greeted with an extremely pleasant server.

We order up some of the regions prized offerings: anchovies, sautéed spinach w/ garlic, grilled local fish, pasta with calamari, a bottle of CT white vino, and the top dog….mouthwatering pesto lasagna. We could’ve eaten a couple more plates of the lasagna…it was that incredible (the next night we hoped to dine there once again w/ friends, but alas…they were out of pesto lasagna). Total: 65E

THE MOON...THAT'S AMORE'!
We head up the 83 stairs to our inn. Once in, we go to our bonus room downstairs and open the window in the stone wall and sit on the daybed listening to the ocean below. It’s soothing and peaceful. Out on the ocean we see the most amazing moon….it looks like an almond with an eerie glow. We could almost reach out and touch it.

Next….. A day packed full of adventure: Riomaggiore, meeting our new BFF (best friends forever) from Canada, taking an off the beaten path hike where we get lost in the pine forest.

NOTE: I will be on vacation for the next 12 days and will finish my report upon my return…..STAY TUNED!

Thank you so much for your trip report thus far. This is one of the best trip reports i have ever had the privileged to read. We did a VERY similar trip 2 years ago and it is bring back so many great memories!!! Cant wait to read the rest of your report.

Have a great time on your trip. FYI: we spend our last night in Florence.

Our fave highlight of our entire stay was climbing to the top of the Duomo. It blew our socks off. If you're not claustrophobic and can handle the 470+ steps up in narrow stairs....its so worth it. The views from the interior and of the Florence from above were breathtaking.

Also...find a place on the outskirts of Florence to watch the sunset. (We did the popular Piazzale Michelangelo).

"Oh no!" for me too! We leave for Venice, CT, Florence,Tuscany/Umbria, Rome in 12 days! So disappointed we will miss the rest before we leave. Hope you have a GREAT adventure on your vacation--thanks again for your report!

Dear Adventure Seeker,
I can't believe you have left us all in a lurch (tee hee)! I hadn't even realized when i began reading your travelogue today that you were really in the midst of writing it. I have spent the whole afternoon reading EVERY WORD about Venice and CT (and cutting and pasting 90% of it into my own collection of info.)
We are heading to Venice, CT, Paris and Antibes this summer with our two teenage daughters and i am in the midst of collecting LOTS of information.
It really is amazing how informative your travelogue has been. I was telling my family over dinner about all of your insights and can't wait to show them your photos too (which are excellent by the way!)so that they can get excited about our trip.
I look very forward to the rest of your story! I wish i could send you out as a scout for all of my journeys so i would always feel like i new where i was going even before i went!!
MOLTO GRAZIE!

TO GRACIE04...
I, of course, after reading adventureseeker's travelogue was dying to stay at Locando Orseolo but unfortunately we would need 2 rooms there(we have our 2 teenage daughters traveling with us)and they are each $360/nt.
I saw that you are staying at Cortina Grimani so looked it up and it looks quite nice and the price is better (and the amount of room for all of us too!.)
I have spent days researching places to stay for various locations during our upcoming June trip and would love to just have someone say, "Stay here - look no further - we have done all the research and have read many wonderful reviews - we know you'll love it!!"
I was hoping you would tell me that and i could be done with my search for a Venice hotel.
What do you think??? Can i stop looking?!!

Thanks so much for the thorough- and thoroughly enjoyable- trip report! I took my 30-yr-old daughter to Venice/Florence/Rome last year and we cried, too, when leaving Venice. We both cannot wait to go back to Italy. She is dying to take her husband! (wonder why-- hahaha)

I love your pictures of the cats of V- I have three of my own lovelies. I love the pic of the four "snugglers". Interesting trivia- did you know that only one in every 3000 Calico cats is a male? True!

And just wanted to put in my 2 cents on something you said--so we ordered one classic Margharita and salad (to share…which is really a no-no in Italia.) I have to totally disagree with this sentiment. Indeed, we were encouraged by friends that this is quite normal, and even practiced saying, "uno per due". We pretty much ordered four or five dishes and always "uno per due" because we wanted to taste everything! (And we DID!) The wait staff everywhere we went in Italy seemed totally non-plused by our requests. (We, too, tried to speak some Italian wherever we went and practiced mostly at dinner!)

PS We had our best meal in Florence at Semidivino, my favorite being little pasta packages stuffed with gorgonzola and pear and served on a little smear of a balsamic and cream sauce, then sprinkled with toasted pine nuts. OHMYGOSH!!!

Like u, I love researching and planning a trip ages in advance (usually when I should be doing work lol)and thats how I happened across ure report.... last year I planned a 3 week trip to California and Vegas for myself and 2 friends - very jelous of u living in California lol we loved it there!!

Well...Im planning a surprise trip to Italy for a week in May for my bfs birthday (we live in Glasgow, Scotland and he thinks we're staying somewhere in the UK for the week, he's never been to Italy before so cant wait to see his face when I tell him!) we're going to Florence for 3 nights spending one day hiring a car and exploring Tuscany then driving up to La Spezia to get the train to Manarola in the Cinque Terre for 3 nights - hoping to get up to Portofino one day. Then train back to Pisa for our last night before flying back to Glasgow early doors.... so I have picked up loadsa tips so far from ure trip - Thanks!!! Sounds like u had an amazing time.. looking forward to reading the rest of ure report! Carole x x

I'm back and will get working on the next installment no later than tomorrow!

I'm glad you're enjoying (as I am in writing/sharing). Yes, this will (finally) be my journal all neat and organized (and legible...to boot!)

Grazie once again for your kind words.

Sarge56, you are totally right about the "uno per due". Mostly our servers were very cool about us sharing, but we definitely saw that it wasn't the norm.

janok,
La Mala Inn http://www.lamala.it/en/index.html HIGHLY recommend it. Our next trip to CT will revolve around the dates that we can book OUR room #19 at La Mala. The inn has become insanely popular and at only 4 rooms, it's the only place we'll stay in CT. If you can't get a room there, find another in Vernazza...you won't want to leave this charming town.

<<My mouth is watering after I read about your meal at Semidivino. I have thus noted it as a "must" for our NEXT trip to Florence>>

We also had the beef carpaccio (out of this world!) and the steak with mushrooms and black truffles- again, a fabulous choice! Really loved this restaurant. Here is address: Semidivino, Via S. Gallo 22/R.

THE START OF A GREAT DAY
The plan was to rise and shine early to get our hiking underway. We originally planned to do a short hike (above Vernazza) yesterday afternoon when we arrived, but that plan went out the window when we couldn’t tear ourselves away from this charming town.

So, here it is 9:30 am in this lovely room in shangri-la with the sound and smell of the sea air lulling us back to sleep. The night before we cracked the top of the downstairs bonus room window open so we could hear/smell the sea. Early in the morning…it was our alarm clock.

The combination of too much CT white wine last night and the relaxation of being in such an idyllic state made us lazy. We dragged ourselves out of bed after reminiscing about our fabulous first night in Vernazza the night before. It just couldn’t get any better…..or could it?

We checked the train schedule and planned to take the 10:26 to Riomaggiore (which I’ll refer to as Rio), the southernmost CT town. We dressed and took a peek out on the terrace. The sea was as beautiful as the day before and the weather was perfect hiking weather….not too chilly, not too warm and clouds in the sky. I took a seat on the terrace and jotted (or shall I say chicken scratched) a few notes in my “journal” (which was really just sheet after sheet of paper capturing whatever is on my mind). I heard the bells pealing and the glorious sounds of children happily playing on the playground behind the train station.

The rest of CT was waiting to be explored and the hiking trails were beckoning us so….down the stairs into town we went. Our first encounter at the bottom of the steps was the trio of resident cats. Such the life!

VERNAZZA….IS THIS PLACE FOR REAL?
The 10:26 train was a pipe dream once we stepped foot onto town. The town was bustling as it was still waking up. We recognized a few locals who were opening their shops, having a chat, etc.

The most interesting thing we witnessed was this contraption (like a flatbed cart) loaded with construction supplies or provisions that would climb the stairs aided by an operator who would guide it from behind. It looked like something like the Mars Rover. Pretty cool! A bit innovative for a rustic ol’ village. DH was fascinated by this thing and we took photos and he had to video tape it in action (of course).

Funny, our whole reasoning for coming to the Cinque Terre was hiking, hiking and more hiking. Now we were finding ourselves under Vernazza’s spell. Truly, I could care less if we hiked now. I just wanted to savor and hang out in this picturesque town eating every flavor of focaccia (which the fresh baked smells were wafting in the air) and CT’s own white wine (oh, and some pesto lasagna).

MY PERFECT MEMOIR
Everyone seemed to know each other. I saw a boutique that looked of interest opening up, so we scambled over. It was called “Storie in Italy”. An artisan boutique filled with great local objets d’ art. My kinda shop! The artist is a local Vernazzan and his wife an Americano from San Francisco. My mind wanders as I imagine that they had this illicit romance when she traveled solo backpacking through Italy. The artist, Antonio Greco, creates an incredible line of jewelry made up of artistic photo charms (hence the name Storie in Italy) which he designs into works of art. These were anything but cheesy charms (have you guessed that I’m slightly picky yet?). Each bronzed framed charm was engraved in the back with the words “Storie in Italy”.

A necklace caught my eye and was priced at 59E. It was a lariat style with 2 charms that dangled on varying length bronzed chains separated by a deep ruby oblong shaped bead. This was something I had to have…..a done deal.

I was eyeballing another charm from another necklace that was a photo of my beloved Vernazza harbor awash with its colorful buildings. A gal who helps Antonio saw how much I admired the charm and offered to replace one of the charms on my necklace for that one. Perfecto! Next, I spied a bracelet with 5 charms. I asked if they could customize the charms for me. No problemo they said and out came a box full of charms. I was in sheer heaven. DH was looking over my shoulder and he asked if he could buy me this bracelet as a memoir of our trip. You bet! Selecting the charms proved to be a task as I couldn’t easily decide between the plethora of gorgeous choices.

I finally narrowed it down: Each of my 5 charms represented a town we visited on our trip: Venice: Gondola floating on an canal, Florence: Ponte Vecchio (I was digging in the box for the Duomo, but none struck my fancy), Tuscany: an angel statue, Cinque Terre: the colorful buildings of Vernazza. Since we were spending one night in Paris on our way home, naturally the last one….the Eiffel Tower. I was able to choose the beads (clear champagne color) in between and she suggested a smaller oval shaped charm that would dangle on a chain from the clasp. I selected Botticelli’s Venus as my “dangler”.

I was in heaven. I couldn’t wait to see the finished product. I was to pick it up on our last day in town.

ANTONIO….OUR FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH THE TOWN CASANOVA
We’re back on track after leaving the boutique and continue our short walk through town, through wafts of focaccia, through happy-go-lucky locals. Our breakfast is at Burgus Bar and Café’ which is at the end of the path, right on the harbor. Talk about location, location, location. We had a great time here last night and I’ve been looking forward to coming back.

I have a perma-grin on my face as I think about my newfound treasures. I feel eyes on me and turn to see this Italiano man with a flirty smile on his face. He raises his eyebrows and smiles bigger. As I look back at him, I notice that he knows everyone…possibly the town Mayor???? ……Meet Antonio (much more about him later!)

BURGUS BAR AND CAFÉ’
The harbor is a scene with provisions and supplies being delivered, with locals gathered and having a morning chat. I notice a delivery guy w/ hand truck stacked high with boxes of CT’s white wine….all for Burgus.

We follow him into Burgus and are greeted by the gal behind the bar area. She’s quiet, but friendly and speaks some English. We show her our La Mala breakfast coupons and she points us to a glass case filled with pastries, focaccia, etc. She tells us to help ourselves and asks us what we’d like to drink. We both say “Verde Te’”. (Green Tea). We are given these darling handmade fish plates for our baked goods…one in pale turquoise and the other butter yellow. You know me by now…I want to take some home!

We take a table (at one of its only 3 tables) which has a ringside view to the happenings just outside the door. I love this place. Great tunes are playing and it feels good to be here. Our server brings over a teapot, cups, saucers and glasses of juice. Everything looks so lovely like it was styled this way and all meant to be. The sugar packets look perfect in the cute ivory matching handmade fish bowl. For a moment I think…..this is no sleepy rustic fishing village!

I take a bite of both focaccia and then of the buttery custard filled croissant. Next, finish off with a sip of tea. I look at DH and we are truly satisfied to be right where we are. A harbor with stories to tell and a great little town bar/café’. The gal from the “Storie in Italy” boutique comes in to get her caffe’. She recognizes us and we chat a bit. A few more stop in for their morning “fuel”.

Naturally…..everyone knows each other. Antonio has even made his way down by the harbor and is just outside doing what he does best: socializing and making googly eyes with his big smile when I look his way.

DH and I look at each other and just grin from ear to ear knowing that we have 2 more mornings here….same time, same place.

Your words are bringing back such wonderful memories of La Mala and Vernazza--looking forward to the next installment! (And you're right abouth the "welcoming committee", those cats may be the most photographed in Italy!)--Mike

I cant wait to read the rest adventure seeker!! 5 weeks today we fly out - Im so excited but its so difficult not giving away anything to my bf lol!

I love all ure detail on venazza and the cinque terre - we are staying in a room owned by 'Il Porticciolo' restaurant in Manarola but guessing we will spend time in each of the towns - expecting it to be a very special leg of the trip Thanks for the tip for getting the boat to portofino, do you know if there is there somewhere we could ask about that when we arrive? Difficult to get much info from the websites.

Grazie for bearing with me during my last post that concentrated heavily (maybe too much so) on my treasured memoirs and Burgus bar/cafe'....I'll NOW get back to the meat of the report:

RIOMAGGIORE (finally!)
We hopped aboard the 12:11 (yup, it’s the 12:11, not 12:21 that I inaccurately mentioned in the previous post…sorry!) train to Rio and were there within 7 minutes. The train schedules are all over CT and at the Parco Nazionale offices at each station. We also made sure to pick up the free color map at the Parco office which had more extensive info about all the trails besides the popular “blue” trail.

(Note about our hiking plan: after researching on these boards, it was recommended to hike South to North due to the amount of stairs and/or hardship of the hike…so that’s what we did. Start in the Southermost town: Riomaggiore)

Rio was another great little town which seemed more serene and peaceful than it's energetic sister: Vernazza. We’re getting the feeling that each of these 5 lands will have it’s very own charm and personality. Rio seemed larger than Vernazza since the main part
of town sat behind the train station.

As we made our way upwards (the town is on a slight grade), we spy a CT museum (free). We’re on no time schedule now so we check it out. The 2 volunteers overseeing this small gem were happy to answer questions and tell us about their native land. It was neat to see all the old photographs of CT and its people. The towns all looked the same, just awash in color. There was a short film we watched which covered the history of the towns. We were here for about 20 min.

Up the town a bit farther we see a typical looking Italiano grocer alimentari (with baskets of colorful produce outside it’s door)…..dying to have its photo taken (which, I so obliged). Next to it, a café’, which doubled as a focaccia shop. We could have closed our eyes and our noses would’ve found their way. Offered were freshly baked focaccia of every flavor imaginable: herb, olive, roasted peppers, garlic, veggie, cheese, etc. I was still stuffed from breakfast, but DH had to have a slice. He chose olive. Naturally, I had a few bites (uh, maybe even half) of it. It melted in my mouth. I can still taste it. The perfect blend of crusty and airy with a smattering of sea salt. YUM! You can only imagine that focaccia in CT where it’s birthplace is the Ligurian Coast tastes like no other focaccia anywhere else…the same holds true for the pesto which they say the secret is in it’s locally grown basil. I am now truly understanding the concept of regional Italian food and how every region has its very own "shining stars". I recently read about a survey that more travelers come to Italy to enjoy it's food more than it's sights. A gastronomic's paradise indeed!

Okay, enough about the food...I'm getting hungry writing this.

Noticeably, there are a lot of cats in Rio. One here, one there. I especially like the cat which sat smack dab in the middle of a bench claiming it’s territory.

We see a church on the mountainside and decide to walk up and take a peek. Again there are the same winding stairs and alleyways, but not anywhere near as steep as those mazes heading up to our La Mala inn. We take a left and walk up a pathway where the church is located.

The church is even more lovely as we get closer. It was perfectly weathered and reminiscent of the kind of churches you would picture in a town like this. The name of the church: San Giovanni Battista. We peer inside and are struck by the old world smells and quietness. There is not a soul around.

Stunning views abound as walk up higher. The pathway snakes around to the top of this mountainside. As we get higher, the views are more stunning. This is a photographer’s paradise (which all of CT is!). At the top is a small school scuole on one side and a small chapel (which can hold 2 dozen people) on the other side. It’s a gorgeous church with beautiful peeling plaster, old yet glistening chandelier and rustic wooden pews. Yup, another kodak moment! We both comment how much we’re enjoying the serenity and beauty of this town. So, the verdict is in…if we can’t stay in Vernazza, Rio is our second choice.

Off to the south of where we are we see a large church we believe is a part of the “Sanctuary Trail”. It’s quite lovely from where we stand. (note: during the course of our hiking I enjoy taking photos of landmarks such as these which get smaller and smaller as we hike farther away from them.) I’m already regretting that we’re spending just a short 3 more days here. Our plan only allowed to conquer the popular “blue trail” and a few diversions. I know we would’ve loved to add the “Sanctuary Trail” to our list….next time!

Around the bend is a beautiful cove below with craggy cliffs and clear blue-green waters. We see a garden and a cat peacefully napping. We’re careful to be quiet as not to disturb it. From around the other side on the pathway comes an older Italian woman. She sees me watching the sleeping cat and begins to yell at the cat to wake it up. DH and I look at each other thinking “oh no”. When her yelling isn’t successful, she picks up a rock and throws it near the cat. The cat is startled and now awake. She laughs heartily. I wouldn’t want to meet her in a dark alley!

GORGEOUS RIOMAGGIORE MARINA
We decide it’s time (actually way past time) to start our hike. I read many wonderful things about a hike south of Rio called Torre Guardiola. This was one of our “diversion hikes” which would take about 90 min. round trip. We figured we could begin walking it and turn around sooner if we liked.

We head back into town and down to the marina. Our first impression: another very picturesque setting with a few small café’s with towering colorful buildings surrounding it. This little marina had a myriad of architectural details and rustic features galore. I snapped a few old doors with rusty hardware and peeling paint. Again…I’m thinking we nix the hiking and have a seat at one of these cute café’s and just take in the ambiance.

Old wooden boats are bobbing in the marina and the water is that clear CT blue-green. We take the walkway that borders the waterfront and see great white marble??? boulders. It’s a beautiful juxtaposition of color and texture. It’s hard to stay focused on the walk when I want to capture every corner, every step, etc. We continue the walk and see the ferry boat landing and what looks to be the trailhead for Torre Guardiola.

As we look beyond we see the wooden railing snaking low around the mountain. What seems special about this trail is that it is close to the sea whereas the other main trails are higher up. I’m looking forward to this. We stop dead in our tracks as the gate is locked with a sign that the trail is closed. BUMMER!

Disappointedly, we turn around and walk back. We’re informed that the main headquarters of CT is right here in Rio. We locate it and step in to talk to them about the closed Torre G. trail. We’re told (in very broken English) that the Torre G. trail is closed from the Rio access, but we can shuttle to the next town South of Rio and hike from that end.

THE LOVER’S WALK-VIA DELL’ AMORE
We’re unsure of both this next town and the whole shuttle system and having to turn around to catch a shuttle back to Rio sounded a bit more complicated than what we wanted to do with a late start. So…we decide to begin the “blue trail” beginning with the ever so popular (and short) Via dell’ Amore (aka The Lover’s Walk) which takes all of 20 minutes on more of a concrete path than a hiking trail.

We are directed to the tunnel which leads to the trailhead. The short lighted tunnel had a colorful mosaic tile mural and arty colorful tiles throughout. It was all eye candy. We continue on and come to the Parco Nazionale booth where they check our pass. As we make our way on the trail, we’re enjoying the views of the craggy mountainside and CT blue-green waters (hmm…..I think Martha Stewart should coin a paint color called “Cinque Terre blue-green”!), but quite frankly, I’m not overly impressed as I was envisioning a more rustic trail. But, alas, I had to remind myself that others who weren’t able to do the more strenuous hikes could enjoy the beauty of the CT by easily walking this “path”. DH is getting romantic (it is the Lover’s Walk, after all) and takes my hand. Just then from behind us….we hear a guy, with his wife who says, “No hand holding allowed”.

Thanks, Adventureseeker, for info on the LaMala Inn. Tried to get in there, but they're booked - no surprise.

Your trip reports are fantastic - thank you for taking time to share in such detail. You paint a vivid picture!

Vernazza sounds wonderful, but I can't find anything available for my daughter's trip (May 15- 18 in CT). So, based on your comments about Rio, I've booked a room for them there at the Locanda dalla Compagnia. If anyone has information on this inexpensive little in, please let me know.

Note….I didn’t plan on the CT report to take so long, but I feel compelled not to leave one detail out!

THE LOVER’S WALK-VIA DELL’ AMORE
We get a chuckle out of this guy cracking quips behind us. Doesn’t he know this is the famed “Lover’s Walk”? Somehow, someway we start chatting with these folks. In the beginning, part of me is a bit annoyed as, being a hopeless romantic, walking on this path (with my DH on our second honeymoon, 10 year anniversary trip), I was expecting some intense bonding w/ my mate especially on a path named for lovers. Instead, we totally and completely bonded with this couple in a matter of 20 minutes. Their names: Mark & Briana (who I’ll refer to as M & B) from Toronto, Canada.

That is one of the beauties we’ve encountered in traveling, and ever so much more in Italy (then again probably in all of Europe). It’s so easy to chat up other travelers. Everyone is relaxed and happy.

We’ve shared meaningful conversations and laughs with other travelers (and locals alike). We came home with oodles of email addresses scribbled on napkins, scraps of paper, etc. People who made this journey extra special that we’ve called them friends and continue to stay in touch. It’s been a gift and the icing on the cake of this trip. Sharing itineraries, tips, stories with travelers while on the train, at the next table, in a bar, and even now…on the Lover’s Walk!

Back to the path….we’re enjoying our chats with M & B, so much so that we forget to take notice of all this path has to offer. I make a point to stop here and there to snap a photo. Thank goodness for the quickness of digital!

Near the end of the path there is an iron contemporary “statue” of the profiles of 2 lovers. Next to it on the railing are dozens of locks (just like the tradition on the gate at the Ponte Vecchio in Florence) whereby lovers place their lock and “symbolically” throw away the key.

At the end of the trail is a quaint café right on the path with small tables and umbrellas. A great spot to stop for a refreshment. We forge on as this very easy hike hasn’t broken a sweat. The scenery is just spectacular and we see a few colored buildings on the backside of Manarola.

MANAROLA…THE PRODUCTIVE VILLAGE
Another lovely town (aren’t they all?). Since the Torre Guardiola hike wasn’t in the cards for us, and the Via dell’ Amore was a bit short, but sweet, we decide to conquer the trail up to Volastra in search of Pirate Barbossa’s grave. We’re having a ball with our new pals M & B that we don’t want the fun to end…..so, naturally, we invite them to join us.

We pop into Manarola’s Parco office to get some info…how long it would take to get up to Volastra? The agent who is not very understandable says 20 minutes. No prob. It’s now about 3pm. Next, I (stupidly) ask about where Barbossa’s Grave is…he looks at me quizzically like “what the heck are you talking about lady?”. I take that as a…”time to leave”.

We take in the sights of this town while making our way up since Volastra sits high above Manarola. As we walk up the wide concrete pathway (which I’m thinking…once again, is there any dirt hiking trails around here?), we see the old aquaduct and antiquated bridge system that we learned about while at the CT museum. It’s all pretty cool. Ducks (not just ducks, but Italian ducks…ha!) are splashing around in the stream. The guys are loving this “manly stuff” (aquaducts and bridges) while us gals comment on the gardens of squash, flowers and lemon trees….signs of daily life in the CT.

As we walk higher we are surrounded with more beauty. Each step higher, we get a new perspective of seeing CT from a different angle. We see the sanctuary off in the distance that we admired while in Rio. All photo opportunities galore. I’m going nuts. We also take notice that there aren’t any hikers taking this route. Most opt for the popular “blue trail” which goes along the coastline and heads for Corniglia.

We reach the top of Manarola and (of course) there is a church perfectly perched there which, just like Rio’s….boasts similar architecture and weathering. We stop to take a swig of water and take in the sights of the town below. It’s like a postcard against the sea.

Manarola is the area of the most productive vineyards in all of CT…that was very evident. We could see above and around all the terraced vineyards. It also boasts groves of olive trees, some of which were netted ready for harvest (and later I find out are used for the production of CT’s own olive oil). We coin it as the “working village” while the 2 others (Vernazza and Rio) are the ones we think the Italianos go for their afternoon siesta and partying.

UP, UP AND AWAY….TO VOLASTRA (and beyond!)
We finally reach the end of the concrete path and spy the trail markers (thick band of red red and band of white lines painted on signs or stone walls) We’re giddy with anticipation as we see what we’re in for. Off in the distance above is the town of Volastra??? (so we think!) And…there is NO WAY that it’s a 20 minute hike up. Maybe the agent said 40 and it came out like 20? Actually, it looks more than 40 minutes too!

We (happily) step off the concrete and unto the CT earth. It feels REALLY good beneath our feet. We’re walking on stones, over paths with wooden railings and weaving through lush shrubbery and old stone walls. Along the way we encounter run down shacks and tended gardens. There are few homes sprinkled here and there.

We’re having great conversations talking about our sensory overload. Kinda like: did you see…? can you smell…? We smell fragranced flowers that are unrecognizable, we hear birds chirping and then there is what we see….(So cliché’), but this is the quintessential coastal Italy that we all envisioned.

We’re enjoying this journey with our new pals. We talk about everything….life, love, work, you name it. We quickly learn about each other and there is never a dull moment.

Up, up, up we go through more of the same gorgeous scenery. We don’t encounter a soul and are loving this off-the-beaten path experience. As we make our way up and around a bend, we spy another town higher. Hmmm? I remember that I have a hiking book in the backpack called, “50 Hikes in and around Tuscany” by Jeff Taylor which has a handful of hikes in the CT.

We stop for a drink of water and to check out the book. It mentions a hike that goes up beyond Volasta through a pine forest. Now that sounded cool to all of us. It also mentioned that the town before Volastra is a tiny village called Groppo. Holy cow! Now I’m thinking the agent said 1 hr and 20 minutes!

We trek on and finally run into a couple of gals hiking from the opposite direction. They stop and tell us about their adventure how they took a wrong turn and ended up way off track. I take a chance and ask once again about Barbossa’s grave and get a blank stare like, “are you nuts?”.

ON THE TRAIL TO VOLASTRA (still!)
We continue the trek up past Groppo in the distance on our left and make our way up above Volastra which is above Groppo. The views of these small towns and the view of Manarola (getting smaller and smaller) below is breathtaking.

The trail ends at a road. Our choices are to go left and descend a bit into Volastra or to continue on to take this intriguing hike that author Jeff Taylor outlines in my “50 Hikes” book. I inquire with our fearless foursome group and they all chime in……Italian pine forest or bust!

This is beautiful scenery and if you don’t take the hike up, take the shuttle up for stunning views.
The countryside is lined with vineyard after vineyard all perfectly in rows that hug the mountainside. Above we see how high we’ve come (and yet to go) as the vineyards stop and the pines begin.

We take notice of the vineyard “train” (well, not really a train…more like a cart and buggy) and mono railway system that snakes vertically from sea to mountain. We’ve seen it action on Rick Steve’s Cinque Terre show. This contraption is what the farmers use to transport grapes up and down these steep terraced vineyards. And…they pick the grapes on their backs. I’m certain it’s how they’ve done it for years and years. Talk about a labor of love. No wonder the CT white is so good.

DH is acting goofy and climbs on the “train” and pretends he’s riding it like a bronco. It makes for a fun photo. Back on track. I read in my book that you will continue up until you are above Volastra. So, we do just that. This trail is more strenuous and over very rocky terrain on narrow pathways. It’s steeper than the other trail. We take notice that the pines are now on our left, a vineyard in front of us and Volastra now just below us, but farther away beyond a paved road. The trail ends at a wooden gate. There is no red and white marker….hmm?

We think that the gate is private property so we access the situation and see a not so clear path going into the pine woods. We decide to see where it goes. As we make our way further into the forest, the vineyard is now to our left and is fenced off. We can still make out the inklings of trail and decide to press on. We figure that since this is truly off-the-beaten path, that not too many have taken it.

GETTING LOST
I take out my book a few times and read the passages to my mates to make sure we’re on track. It seems that we are. We press on. It’s beginning to get very thick and we’re supposed to come to a paved road (at some point, anyway). We stop and wonder if we should turn back. The Indiana Jones in us keeps us going forward. Now, we’re cursing Mr. Jeff Taylor. We’re cracking jokes that he has a hidden camera in this forest for his amusement. We come across a rusty old abandoned cars and fridge. It’s time to get out. I’m seriously a bit frightened about getting lost. I can see the headlines, “2 couples lost in Cinque Terre pine forest”. Exotic, but yikes!

Since the forest is getting thick, it seems that it is getting darker. We feel like Indian Jones and the temple of doom (aka the pine forest). We start humming a few bars to keep things light. Time to make an executive decision to abort and head towards the fenced vineyards. The “so-called” trail we’ve been following has descended into the valley, so now we are heading upward. Voila! We come to a fence and a paved road on the other side. The road goes to??? We climb over the fence. We’re sweaty now and low on water. We’re not sure where we’re at. Our choices…go left or right.

It would be obvious to choose left and go back the way we came. But….we trust Jeff Taylor (who, during this hike we’ve composed a letter that will send him giving him a piece of our minds) who states that the paved road will eventually meet up w/ Volastra.

BARBOSSA…WHERE ARE YOU?
We spy a cemetery in the middle of nowhere to the right. We head that way (secretly, I’m still on my mission to find Barbossa’s grave). It’s out of place here in the middle of a pine forest. We walk in and see an old Italian woman who speaks no English tending the graves. I figure, what the heck…so I ask the undying question, “Barbossa’s grave”? Figuring the name Barbossa would be understandable in Italian. She shakes her head “no”.

The gang pumps her for info the best they can. We find out that if we continue the way we were going, we’d end up (in a couple days…if we made it!) in La Spezia. I look through all the graves to search for Barbossa. I don’t know why I’ve all of a sudden become so obsessed.

Back on the road in the right direction. This has been an adventure. I wonder where we went wrong. We think that maybe that wooden gate is where we should’ve walked through. Where or where was that trusted red and white marker? We laugh (now) since we know we’re on the right track.

We come to the paved road that leads into Volastra. Triumph! I’m relieved. We’re hungry as bears and need some water. Volastra is a cute town, a bit more modern and newer (it seems) as the buildings don’t look so “old world”. A tiny café/store is in the distance….we bee line for it. We reload on water and snacks (mainly junk salty stuff like chips, etc.). We inquire about the trail to get back to Corniglia. We’re told to take Trail 7A and they give us directions how to get there. The mystery is also solved that the agent was saying that the shuttle takes 20 min. to get up to Volastra. Didn’t he know that we were going to tackle it as the fearless foursome?

And yes, I did ask one last time about Barbossa’s grave. And got that blank stare!

CORNIGLIA OR BUST
We easily find the trailmarker to 7A. There are no hikers. Just us. We wanted off-the-beaten path and by golly, that’s what we got! We’re WAY up high. It’s not really a “hiking trail”, but the trail the farmers take between their vineyards. It’s absolutely stunning up here and not for the faint of heart. Some areas are pretty tricky and we have to put one foot in front of the other as to not slip off the side. Talk about adventure. I don’t recall signing up for this! Some areas we’re hugging the stone wall and not looking down. Thank goodness this is just in a few spots, but I was getting concerned as to what we faced ahead. I can see the headlines once again, “2 couples plunge to their death on the Cinque Terre Vineyard footpath”. Again….exotic, but yikes!

We pass a farmer in the fields taking a siesta with his dog. He looks weathered (like the churches) and perfectly perched (like the churches). He smiles at us and his dog comes over to greet us. We show him our cameras and motion if it’s okay to snap a photo. He obliges and picks up a tool like a machete and poses as if he is working in the field….classic!

As we hike I wonder if the cemetery in the pine forest was real. Maybe it was a mirage and the old caretaker and angel. She’s an angel in my book pointing us in the right direction. I can only imagine how far we would’ve walked towards La Spezia before we turned around (or if we ever would). We’d eventually find our way, but what if it were dark? Frightening!

CORNIGLIA….THAR SHE BLOWS!
This is vineyard country as far as the eye can see. Where the heck is Corniglia? The sun is going down and before I was concerned that I wouldn’t get to see the sunset from our terrace or from the Vernazza harbor. Now I just want to get off this trail and into town while it is still light out. We take the pace up a notch as we want to have light.

We turn a bend and see Corniglia. She looks so beautiful….like Emerald City. Maybe because we’re desperate to get there. The hike down takes us past olive groves waiting for harvest. The trees are intertwined with orange mesh netting to collect the falling olives. We’re making good time and it’s reassuring to see Corniglia get closer and closer. The sun is beginning to set and we’re almost there….thank heavens.

Finally we step into Corniglia. We are so happy! DH and I had planned to eat at a mom and pop trattoria here called Osteria a Cantina de Mananan. This was on our list. A few Fodorite’s had recommended it highly. It sounds good to M & B, so we’re on a mission to find it. We do, but it doesn’t open for another 30 minutes. We can’t wait that long and decide to get back to Vernazza….as quickly as possible!

HOME SWEET HOME
It’s late, we’re tired, sweaty and hungry…but (surprisingly) in good spirits. We get to the train station and pull out our schedule. The next train to Vernazza is due to arrive in minutes. The next one is an hour later. We’re standing on the other side (mountain side) of the boarding platform. To get to the other side you have to take the ramp down which goes under the tracks and comes up on the other side. There is no way we’re going to make it. The train pulls up and I don’t think twice….I run over the tracks and jump on the train. And the gang follows. There are signs posted in large writing, “DO NOT CROSS TRACKS”. We spill into the car and are laughing like crazy. Everyone looks at us like we’re nuts….we are. We can’t believe the kind of day we’ve had. The Indiana Jones adventure continues!

What a day we had….great memories. It’s a given that M & B will be joining us for dinner…we don’t want the fun to end. We invite them to check out our room at La Mala. They are impressed (but not impressed about the 83 steps to get there, especially after hours of hiking!).

We’re famished and head towards town in search of FOOD! We ask Da Sandro’s about the Pesto Lasagna…it was last night’s special. We spy another mom and pop trattoria across the way called Il Baretto which looks like another winner. On the way over I spy Antonio chatting up (of course) some ladies. He sees us and gives us his trademark smile. We smile back. There are a couple tables available so we grab one. It’s a very busy and popular place. Smells good too. The menu arrives and it’s chock full of local specialties…all at very reasonable prices, hence the crowd.

We decide on sharing a slew of delicacies: mussels, anchovies, pesto w/ pasta, veggie soup, salad, etc. Polished off with a dessert each. Good simple food that couldn’t come out fast enough. We opted for bottles of water instead of CT white. We were energized and wanted to get a fast start on hiking the next day. The meal was grand with such great company. The conversation flowed and flowed. We were laughing until we cried. What a perfect end to a crazy spontaneous day. The people at the next couple tables joined in as we all told stories.

M & B take the train back to their town, Monterosso. The plan is: more adventure for tomorrow. DH and I are to hike from Vernazza to Monterosso and meet up w/ them. We’ll all boat back to Rio and then train up to Corniglia where we’ll hike back to Vernazza. That way…we have hiked the entire 5 villages.

No Burgus for us tonight. We’re exhausted and drag ourselves up those 83 steps to our room. We both take a long hot shower and sit on the daybed downstairs with the window open to the sea. We quietly watch the moon and listen to the sound of the ocean. Soon enough we’re in bed and fast asleep. Too tired to dream.

Next…Hike to Monterosso, Boat ride, and our fabulous last night at Da Piva’s!

Adventureseeker, I have read many travel books, and none have been as interesting to me, as your trip report. You have a wonderful way of describing your adventures, that has the same feeling, I feel when in Italy. We are going to Venice, and Tuscany this September. We have been there before, but you've given me some great tips for Venice, and Florence. I can't wait to read your report on Tuscany. I'm glad you had such a wonderful experience on your trip. I'm taking notes as I write this. Thank you so much. Margaret.

This entry may be a bit "warm and fuzzy". It's our very last full day in Vernazza and it kinda does that to ya!

THE MORNING AFTER
We got up early 6:30am ...surprisingly. Interesting how alert you can be when not having any vino the night before! Yesterday was a very spontaneous action packed day and today…..we had a plan.

Of course, we first checked out the terrace. It was nice to see the sea at dawn. Yesterday we could hear the ocean, but couldn’t pull ourselves out of bed to actually look at it. Another good day for hiking: not too hot, some clouds in the skies.

We changed and headed down to greet Vernazza. It was like the movie “Groundhog day”….same time, same place. I swear. Although we were actually setting foot into town a few hours later than the day before….it was the same buzz. How nice to live in a “rustic” fishing village (ha!). I forgot to mention how many times I had to ask DH if I was annoying him with how many times I told him how much I loved this place. He would politely say, “no”. Then it was, “yes, dear”. Now he simply answered, “I know”.

We were here on our third day and knew what to expect….the trio of cats perched at the bottom of the stairs (today, they were sleeping all curled up into a ball), the locals opening up their shops. Today, since it was a bit early they were gathered around having what I’d call a “board meeting”. Theirs seemed more of a pow wow session in the middle of town with their caffé du jour (probably from Burgus).

I stopped in my tracks taking it all in. DH knew I wanted to savor and was on a mission so he told me….”meet ya at the harbor”. Off he went. This was cool. Kinda like Venice in the early morning (even though we were an hour or two behind our Venice’s am schedule). This is what Vernazza looked liked before the trains unloaded all the daytrippers and hikers. Mind you…it really was pleasantly “busy” while we were here. We truly expected the Rick Steve’s fan club (no offense….really!) to be taking over Cinque Terre. That wasn’t the case in mid-October (thank goodness).

ANTONIO…WHO?
In the midst of it all…there was Antonio (remember…the town Casanova). It was time for a proper introduction. He flashed his trademark smile and came over. He introduced himself as did I. He was charming as ever…..Vernazza to the core. I felt a friendship coming on. He made me smile. I knew that from that moment on, I’d never forget him. And…..I was right.

He walked me down to Burgus. I felt like I had the mayor of Vernazza at my disposal. We got to Burgus and DH was there outside looking out at the harbor. He turned, saw us and had a perma grin on his face. He knew.

DH met Antonio. Antonio was a Vernazzan. He and Mama rent out rooms in Vernazza. He’s well traveled and loves his village…and it shows. We envy his life. Like I said before…”this ain’t no sleepy fishing village”. I already know that Antonio will be a big part of my memoir. Even more than my priced necklace and bracelet that will remind me every time I look a them…about my 4 days of my life in the Cinque Terre.

Six months later as I write this….I remember. It is so crystal clear. I think of not only Vernazza, but about this guy named Antonio who I (once) coined as the town casanova. In the next 24 hours he becomes so much more than that (to me).

BACK TO BURGUS
We say our goodbye, reluctantly to Antonio, as we step inside Burgus. We are greeted by the same gal who was here yesterday. Remember I mentioned how quiet she was. Today, it was like we were old friends. We knew the drill….get the handmade fish plate (today DH and I changed it up....he got the butter yellow and I, the pale turquoise) and select the pastry. Quick as a whip, the gal had our pot of green tea (w/ cute cups) and juices on our table. We looked over at her and she gave us a shy nod. It was a look that I’ll never forget.

There we were day # 3 in Burgus, in Vernazza, in the Cinque Terre. Do I remind DH how happy I am to be here…..”no”. He knows. He feels the same….I can tell. The music is playing and we’re ahead of schedule so we linger. We love the people who come in and everyone knows each other like a secret club. It’s very cool. All of a sudden, the “Raiders of the Lost Ark” theme song plays….I swear. I swear on a stack of bibles. I swear with needles in my eye. I’m a professed movie buff. I KNOW this song. We were just humming bars of this song while in the Italian outback (aka pine forest). DH (‘til today) claims that wasn’t the song. Yes, it was a soundtrack he says, but not of “Raiders”. I know in my heart and soul that it was. Like I said….Burgus plays cool tunes. It was SO apropos.

VERNAZZA ENOTECAS
DH and make our way up through town. As we head up, we see the gang at Da Sandro’s in their trattoria having a meal before they open. DH tells me to get a photo….I can’t resist. This is a perfect photo op. They all know us since we dined there on our first night and went back to see about their delizioso pesto lasagna the next. I was in their doorway with my camera and they ranted and hollered while I snapped a photo. Such a classic shot….the cook gave a fab popeye muscle pose. I made a 8 X 10 photo and sent it to them. You can see it on our CT photo slideshow.

We need to pick up some waters for the hike. We have time to kill and I’ve been meaning to check out this enoteca near the train station called Sotto l’arco. It’s a beauty. They have an incredible selection and styled so pleasingly. The best product they have here are it’s owners. They are the NICEST people and are so knowledgeable about the local vintages, etc. I spy a stack of NYC travel books nearby and we chat about their upcoming trip to the USA. We click immediately. So much so that I wish we could ship back cases of CT vino home to support them. We bought a local Limoncino (CT’s own version of limoncello) and CT white to toast our last night at sunset. DH treks our goodies up to the room while I wait in town.

VERNAZZA TO MONTEROSSO AL MARE
We’re on our way to Monterosso. We’re actually pretty proud that we’ve (finally) got an early start. We spy that infamous red/white trailmarker smack dab in the middle of town. Slam Dunk. Before we head left to start the trail we spy Antonio who gives us both a Vernazzan nod, Antonio style. Geez….he has grown on us!

We snake up the stairs on the opposite side of our La Mala “climb”. The stairs meander through the alleys and stairways and doors. There is a whole life here. We finally reach some dirt and step upon it. We make our way and come across the Nazionale Parco booth who checks our pass to make sure we’re legit. We get waved on.

Remember I mentioned how countless hikers to this area suggested hiking South to North due to the incline and stairs? Well, it didn’t appear to be a very good suggestion as we trudged our way up and onward. The views of the Vernazza harbor as we made our way were stunning. I have at least 50 photos of this same harbor as we climb higher and higher while it gets smaller and smaller. We’re encountering more hikers on this trail than yesterday (mind you, no one else was on that crazy mission to find Barbossa’s grave!). It’s not too crowded, we’re just not used to taking the trail with anyone else.

On we go and it’s striking every step of the way. We’re planning on a 2 hr. trek to meet up w/ M & B (remember that fun Canadian couple from yesterday?). It’s very picturesque as all of the blue trail promises. Because it’s the most popular we’re noticing a lot of activity coming from the North (Monterosso). We’re used to having the trail to ourselves. No prob, we’re glad to share and oblige. There are many areas on this trail that only one can pass, so we find ourselves moving over or stopping to let the other direction pass. No biggie, but we were really spoiled yesterday!

MEOW,
About halfway to Monterosso we come across a picnic area filled with wild cats. They are cared for as someone has left food/water with a sign to ask hikers to be sure bowls are filled. La Dolce Vita (the sweet life).

We trek further and eventually spy Monterosso beach in the distance It is beautiful. We can see why this is the “beach” of CT. From a distance it looks like a resort spot all nestled in a mountainside. It’s a gorgeous day and I can only imagine what kind of a “hot spot” this place is in summer. We’re passing more and more hikers. Okay, now It’s almost comical as we see them coming towards us like a trail of ants. We’re glad we’re here in the Fall and wonder if Summer would have this much allure on us while crowded with hikers.

We see a few youngsters with their parents and think of our son back home (in very good hands), but know that he’d love this hike. The first day here we already made a pact that we’d return (hopefully sooner than later) to bring our boy back to experience this splendor. He’s taken a lot of adventures with us during his young 7 years of life. But….nothing like hiking Italy’s Cinque Terre.

MONTEROSSO AL MARE
As we get closer to Monterosso we spy a couple kayakers in the cove below. What an adventure they are on. The water seems so much clearer here than the other 4 villages. No wonder this is the resort town. As we get closer we see the ferry. It is docked picking up passengers. Our plan today is to take the boat the length of the CT for the ocean perspective. It’s a gorgeous sunny day and the sea is calm.

We get closer and are right on schedule. There are so many hikers on the trail. We stop and let some pass and vis-a-vis. Our hike begins to descend upon Monterosso. Finally we get it. There are stairs upon stairs and decline upon decline. Our concerns about the climb and stairs that we took coming out of Vernazza seemed like nothing compared to these coming out of Monterosso. So we can attest that going South to North is the way to go!

We finally reach Monterosso and can easily see the allure. It must crank in the summer. All of the rental boats, umbrellas and beachy rentals were all locked up for the season. The stretch of sand looked inviting (as well as the Mediterranean sea). There were a handful of diehards laying out catching some rays.

Monterosso is comprised of 2 parts: old town and new town. It’s a gorgeous town which we wish we had more time to explore. Being that it is a “bookend” cars are allowed. And…it’s bigger than the other 4. We spied our waiting BFF’s (Best Friends Forever) M & B immediately. We were right on schedule. We exchanged hugs, pleasantries, etc. They immediately dragged us over to their fave focaccia café (didn’t I say they were our BFF’s?). We all had a slice (or two). The chatting went on and on. Never a dull moment.

We had a plan to take the boat to Rio. Before that, M and I were talking about taking a swim. Hmmmm….could we fit it into our plan? We decided instead to take off our shoes, roll up our crop pants and wade. It was pure heaven. The water was that crystal clear deep turquoise and oh so clean. We could’ve dived in clothes and all. We thought about it…..seriously. It was refreshing.

While wading, M and I handpicked some gorgeous pebbles. Mine are at home in a dish (which I got in Tuscany) on a bookshelf in my home office that is devoted to our Italy trip. The guys ran into town to check out a guitar shop (which was closed for siesta…..early!). M & B showed us their room at their quaint inn which was near the ocean. It was nothing like La Mala, but very nice and the owners were very sweet.

We decided to grab a quick lunch at a nearby café’. We were served ironically by a young italian lad wearing a "I "heart" NY" shirt who was to be attending a wedding in California (close to our home) the following week....small world! He had lived in NYC and was back in CT helping his family famiglia with their business. I just love that Italian dedication to family. We have experienced it everywhere. We lunched on a very simple, but tasty salad, bruschetta and pesto pasta.

BOAT RIDE IN PARADISE
Next was the boat ride from North to South. We hopped on in Monterosso and were traveling to Rio. We made a stop in each town….Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and finally Riomaggiorre. When we past Vernazza, we could see La Mala and our window in the stone wall. When were between Corniglia and Manarola we spied the 7A trail down from Volastra ...were we really that high up? Did we really go that far? It was mind boggling to see where we had hiked.

We’ve only been here 3 days and it seemed like forever. We really covered a lot of ground and there was still so much more to discover. I tried not to think about us leaving tomorrow. We HIGHLY recommend taking the boat between Rio and Monterosso. It’s so breathtaking to see these glorious villages from the sea.

We met a woman on the boat who was a member of an Austrian Chorale who were traveling throughout Italy singing in churches. She invited us to a concert they were having that evening at the church on the harbor in Vernazza. We all agreed that was a “must” for the evening agenda.

M & B were also leaving tomorrow. They had a car and were heading towards Lake Como area. We had to pick up our car rental in La Spezia tomorrow by noon. I hated to think that we had to leave CT and our new friends. I hate goodbyes. I already knew that saying goodbye to Vernazza and to M & B was going to hurt.

CORNIGLIA TO VERNAZZA HIKE
Once we got off the boat in Riomaggiore, we took the train back to Corniglia. We had read about the gazillion steps to get into town from Rio and decided to take the shuttle. That was a wise decision. Once in town, we stopped for a much deserved gelato. Now, how much hazelnut gelato can one gal eat? Not enough, I daresay! It was a good gelato. But….nothing like the gelato in Florence (is anything!). We asked someone to snap a photo (one of my fave in CT) ….of our fearless foursome with double decker gelato cones. Classic!

There is a boutique across from the Gelato Artignale shop which has some great local trinkets and objets d’art. B and I picked out a few fun things to bring home.

Off we go…..hike #3 Corniglia to Vernazza. We found that infamous red/white and were on our way. Based on research, the hike would be about 1 ½ hours….which it was. Again, more of the same coastal beauty: on one side….vineyards, old sheds, ancient stone walls, gardens, etc. On the other: sea as far as the eye can see, coves, rugged coastline, etc.

We were enjoying another hike with our new friends, but it surely wasn’t anywhere close to yesterday’s adventure. More chats, more laughs. This trek had hikers, but it was nowhere close to our Vernazza-Monterosso hike this morning. I felt secure knowing that we were on the blue trail heading home. This would be our last night in CT and I wanted to see our last sunset on our terrace or at the Vernazza harbor. I was confident that it would happen.

It is almost impossible to pick out the best trail. They all had their own personality and beauty. Although our Volastra adventure will go down in our books as a fave, the blue trails were all breathtaking. Each moment and corner is a photographer’s dream. I’m just an amateur, but the scenery makes all of my photos look like I’m a pro.

INSPIRATION ABOUNDS!
It’s hard not to get inspired here. From the moment I set foot in Venice I was inspired. Inspired to do something great…something creative….something meaningful. Whether it be painting, sketching, writing. I’m inspired to learn more….about history, about art. This place called Italy draws it out of me. I’m not the only one…..I’ve read numerous times on this board how much Italy has an affect. This place makes me want to live a better life filled with passion and gusto. I thought I was doing that already, but somehow I want more…and it all makes sense now.

We are right on schedule in the middle between Corniglia and Vernazza. At one point I turn back and see the town of Corniglia in the distance. It’s so lovely…..and so far away just like a miniature fantasy town. We finally see Vernazza ahead of us and I spy our terrace at La Mala…aaaahhh! It’s a picture postcard this angle of Vernazza with the tower jutting out to the sea. It’s all about perspective here!

We take the stairs down into our “home sweet home”. The sun is due to set within the hour. This is our last afternoon, our last sunset and our last night in this enchanting place called Vernazza. Even M & B are under it’s spell. The plan is that they will train back to Monterosso and spend their last night with us in Vernazza. Works for us!

OUR LAST CT SUNSET
M & B are off to the train while DH and I climb our 83 stairs to our beloved La Mala. We get to our room and DH grabs our bottle of CT white from our fridge and we immediately take it and 2 glasses out to the terrace. We’re not the only ones there. There is a young couple who are from Florida also enjoying the sunset. Lucky them….this is their first night (of 3) at La Mala. They are sweet and we are enjoying their company. DH goes back to the room to fetch 2 more glasses. We share our CT wine and make a toast. They ask about the hikes and DH fills them in (and no, I don’t dare bring up Barbossa’s grave, thank you very much!).

It’s a beautiful farewell sunset. We make a toast and watch a fisherman is in his boat in a nearby cove. I can’t believe it’s our last night here. I turn to DH and he can see it in my eyes, I’m about to tell him how much I love it here. He knows and he feels the same way.

GOING OUT IN STYLE AT DA PIVA’S
We say goodbye to the CT sunset and the young couple on the terrace as we head to the room to shower. M & B are meeting us back here in a half an hour. We better get the show on the road!

Tonight’s plan is to have dinner and then go to the Austrian Chorale concert at the church. We all decided to get gussied up since this was our last night in the CT. M & B arrive and we’re not quite ready. They go out on the terrace and wait for us.

Everyone looks fancy compared to the hiking garb we’ve seen each other in the last couple days. We head down the stairs into the village. At the bottom of the stairs is Da Piva's, a trattoria owned by Maestro Da Piva (in the day he was a dashing guitarist…still is, just older and wiser). As we checked out the menu, a server passed between us with terracotta bowls steaming with seafood risotto. That was their plan....to lure us with the amazing waft of local seafood...it worked!

We peeked inside and a table of locals were hollering, ranting and raving for us to come in. You know who was at the center of it all……Antonio.

We relented and grabbed a table outside. Our waiter was Da Piva's strapping son (The Italian Stallion), Raphael. He was a sweetheart. A product of a Italian legendary musician (Da Piva) and a Parisian gal. Good genes. I kept telling him that I was taking him home for my single girlfriends! He would just blush which added to his allure.

On the menu....."Marinated Muscles" (seriously). That got a hoop hollering laugh out of us. I was trying (unsuccessfully) to explain this error to Raphael who knew only broken english (gosh darn, does he have to be so cute?). So we ordered Seafood Risotto (of course!), salads, garliky spinach, pesto tonetto, grilled local fish and marinated mussels (uh, I mean muscles) and a bottle of CT white. The fish came out whole and Raphael artfully and quickly de-boned it in front of us. We finished it off with some CT white vino. Yet another satisfying memorable meal with great conversations, friends and food!

We peeked our head inside and the locals wouldn't let us leave (nor did we want to), so we were lured inside to partake of some local flair: music, flowing homemade Limoncino (CT's version of Limoncello), Antonio and stories galore. The charming smallish one room trattoria was lined with newspaper articles, photos, memorabilia of Maestro Da Piva's illustrious career. Impressive. He was a real looker in the day (which he generously passed onto Raphael!).

We grabbed a table next to Antonio's gang and Da Piva immediately reached behind the bar and produced a vat of homemade Limoncino which he generally poured for us....a gift from the Maestro himself. Love the CT hospitality!
Can it get better than this?

The guitar was being passed around and the locals sang tunes like, "Americano", "Volare", to name a few. A lively, happy bunch. Antonio pulled his chair over next to us and chatted away.

M, who is an accomplished guitarist, graced us all with a couple tunes he wrote. Bellisimo! He was in heaven and so were we. Somehow we knew this was the scene here every night and wished we stumbled across it nights' past. We were privy to life in Vernazza. Why would anyone want to leave? We sure didn't. We did tell the Austrian singer on the boat we’d for sure come to see the performance, we had to keep our word.

A few got up to dance. Antonio, who knew we were leaving the next day kept chanting, "Debbie (that’s me), don't go" and was pretending he was crying. Like I said, a flirt...but, I just adored him (and DH too!)….he kinda grows on ya. Throughout the evening a few ladies came in and out. And each one got the Antonio “welcome”.

We didn’t want to leave for the church concert, this was way too much fun. But, we had to make an appearance. When we got up, everyone ranted and hollered again telling us not to go. We told them we’d definitely be back. Antonio, once again….”Debbie, don’t go”. Once we showed them the flyer for the concert which had an illustration of 3 choir angels singing, the crowd roared. They thought it was hilarious that we were leaving this party to go to this conservative church concert. One of the servers who didn’t speak a stitch of English looked at the flyer and laughed so hard she was crying. Now the gang is shooing us out saying things like, “go to church”, “go pray”, etc.

Off we went. It was a short jaunt and we were running (really). We wanted to get in there and back to the action at Da Piva's. It was beautiful in the church and the acoustics sensational. It gave me goosebumps. The altar was lit with candles and the choir was like a group of singing angels (just like the flyer…ha!)…bellisimo. We stayed for a set and then went back to Da Piva's. You can only guess how wild the group got when we stepped back in.

More of the same: great energy, laughter, limoncino and music. The clock was ticking and M & B would have to leave to take their train (which was the last train of the evening). I tried not to think of saying goodbye to them. It had been a wild, crazy, perfect adventure. It was time…we walked out side with our BFF's, hugged and said a quick goodbye as they ran to catch their train. We didn't want them to go.

DH and I went back inside. The laughter and energy was what we needed to forget that our friends were gone....that and Maestro waiting with a couple glasses of Limoncino. A few more people came in and joined the fun.

One was a Swedish guy who was a professional guitarist in a band back in his hometown. We invited him to sit with us. He grabbed a guitar and played. He was phenomenal. DH and I kept rattling off songs by Led Zeppelin, U2, etc. and he played them beautifully.

I was telling him about Hawaiian Slack Key and about a local band at home who are an outstanding flamenco guitar group called Benise. He was intrigued. DH went up the 83 stairs to our room to fetch my iPod. There we were: in Italy, in Vernazza, at Da Piva's one earbud in my ear and one in the Swedish guys's ear listening to music.

He would listen and play a few chords of what he just heard. WOW! He noticed an old guitar perched high on a shelf. He was stunned and went over to the Maestro to tell him that was the guitar he learned to play on which was a very rare brand. ......Small world.

It was late and we were full of Limoncino and exhausted. We hugged the gang, said "ciao" while making a reluctant exit. Last words ala Antonio, “Debbie, don’t go” with a few fake tears.

This was hands down our favorite night in all of Italy. Our dinner at Florence’s La Giostra was now in second place.

I just read your section on the Rialto Market and looked at the photos. Thank you so much for sharing. I am sitting in my kitchen looking at my collection of "food photos" from our last trip to Italy in 2005. Most of the photos are from the Campo di fiori (sp) market in Rome. Plus a few great lemon photos from Capri. I feel they make beautiful and meaningful wall art.

Awww what gorgeous pics!! Thank u so much - really enjoyed whiling away a good 10 mins (at work) having a nosey at them.... u have def captured everthing u have described so well on camera and vice versa!

Between ure report and me googling everything I can possibly think of for our trip Im not going to get any work done before we leave!!

We are staying at a small hotel in the center of Montepulciano, La Terrazza di Montepulciano. Nothing fancy since we are only going to be there for a couple of nights and will be exploring most of the time. It is really just to check out the area for a future vacation. Our main focus is Venice and Positano. Plus we really like driving to see the countryside. It would be more efficient to take the train but we dcided to meander down to The coast over a couple of days.

First time to Venice and second to Positano. I adore the Amalfi Coast. We are also going to see Pompei this trip.

One more installment of CT (which I'll get it done tonight) and then it's off to Tuscany. CT was written more like my journal...you all got a glimpse of how this place got a hold of my heart.

The Tuscany leg will be written more like Venice/Florence....a trip report w/ details and info. Not quite so warm and fuzzy (uh, maybe just a little).

Paula,

I'm sure Antonio will make himself "free". He seems to have that gift!

Thx for your kind comments about the photos. I look at them way too often and they are a constant reminder of such a special trip that will be a part of me forever.

I had taken over 2,000 photos (not including the ones I deleted along the way!). The slideshow I created for Fodor's is just an inkling. Can you see why it took me 6 months to organize and gather my notes? I was on photo and "journal" overload.

I have been loving your report and as always, am looking forward to the next installments!

Your reference to Benise startled me .... they were the last thing I would think you'd mention, but I could definitely see the tie-in. That would have made the evening absolutely perfect ... Roni Benise grabbing the guitar and playing there!! (I'm in SoCal too ... have seen them at the Greek, and at the local malls/street fairs)

We first discovered Benise at a local festival and they (as usual) captivated the audience. We were instant fans and see them whenever they're in town. I'm happy that they've on their way to stardom now ...on iTunes and playing larger venues.

Yup...having Roni sharing his music at Da Piva's would have been icing on the cake!

WE LEFT OUR HEARTS IN VERNAZZA
I probably don’t have to tell you that we didn’t wake up early today. Each night we cracked open the downstairs window so the ocean would lull us to sleep. All the vino and limoncino last night made us unaware of the sound of the ocean. It was nice to hear it this morning….one last time.

I got up first and went downstairs to start packing. It was an easy task since we had this extra room. The ocean was right in my ear which made this task of packing a soothing one. DH soon joined me and began doing the same. I was beginning to feel a wave of sadness come over me. Kinda like anticipating saying goodbye to LO and Venice. But…stronger. This place called CT, Vernazza and La Mala grabbed a hold of me.

We cleaned up and headed out onto the terrace to say “good morning” to the sea and Vernazza. That was our ritual. DH gave me a hug and I was proud of myself as I fought back the tears.

(Oh…I forgot to mention that on our 2nd day when we got our late start, Mama Jamba was in the hallway of La Mala cleaning the rooms. We had a nice chat with her telling her how much we loved La Mala. She gave us a tour of all the rooms. Each one was spectacular. #19 & 20 were the smallest, but the same great elements and with their own incredible views. #31 was above ours and was the largest with views from above the terrace and out to the sea. Ours (#26) was the best choice for us since we were eye level with that fab stone terrace and the bonus room which was perfecto. Quite frankly, I’d be happy with any room here. Although #26 will always be OUR room)

I got cleaned up quickly and headed down into town to pick up my necklace and bracelet. DH was finishing his packing and was to meet me in town. Vernazza is so delightfully small that it was hard to get lost.

I found myself taking deep breaths as I walked down the steps into town. Not because of these grueling stairs, but because I knew it was soon time to say goodbye. Near the bottom was Da Piva’s….the scene of last nights’ mayhem. I peered in the window expecting to find passed out locals from the night before, but it was clean as a whistle (with only an empty gallon bottle on the bar that housed a vat of limoncello just 8 hours before). Good times, Good times.

I feel so fortunate that we had a glimpse of local Vernazzan nightlife. What a night it was! Again….I’m sure that tonight will be more of the same….filled with another grouping of lucky travelers who stumble across this gem of a place. And another group of ladies who Antonio “spills tears for”.

I’m immediately saddened as I remember our Canadian pals M & B. I wonder what they’re up to now. I can’t imagine a trip like we’ve had without them by our side. It’s those spontaneous moments that make for the best of memories. I am already making a mental note of what to fill in the care package I send them. All fun mementos of our time together.

The “Storie in Italy” store is just opening, so I pop into another enoteca called Enoteca Sciacchetra’ near them that is open. I see some Ligurian Olivewood that catches my eye. Wonderful grains of smooth golden wood carved into great spoons, bowls and cutting boards. They are priced right and would make excellent gifts for our culinary pals back home. I, myself, love cooking with wooden spoons, so I grab a few for me too. I bought 4 enlongated boards (no longer than 15” in length) slimly carved into an asymmetrical hourglass-like shape perfect for cheese displays, 12 large wooden spoons in varying sizes, 4 olive spoons and 3 appetizer spoons perfect for tapenade or other yummy dips. These all smell like what I’d imagine Ligurian olivewood to smell like.

I’m so happy to bring back gifts to friends from a place to remember. When picking out gifts, I’m always concerned that I’d find a much better (or apropos) gift at the next place, but…….I feel like I’ve struck gold (and that I did as I wish I would’ve brought back 5 more of everything! And more importantly our foodie friends LOVED them!).

This purchase has put a smile on my sad face. I leave with my goodies and can’t wait to pick up my bracelet and necklace. I go into “Storie in Italy” and see the gal who helped me customize my treasures. She sees me and has a big smile on her face. She knows how much I’ll love these pieces. She gets my trinkets and unwraps the tissue. I melt. They are beautiful and I immediately put them on.

I bid farewell to “Storie” and make my way down to the harbor. I see Antonio. He is doing his fake crying and saying “Debbie, don’t go”. I do everything I can not to burst into tears. He brings a big smile to my face. I really hoped that I wouldn’t see him today. I figured that we all said our goodbyes last night. I go over and give him a big hug and kiss on both cheeks. I tell him I’ll be back and he’d better remember me (I truly hope he does and that it isn’t all wishful thinking). Just then DH shows up and gives Antonio a big handshake. I’m starting to get misty…..Get me outta here!

Back to Burgus for the last time. More of the same….great vibe, tunes, chatter. LOVE this place (but, you know that by now!). We see the Burgus gal and she shyly smiles and quickly gets our tea and juices to our table. We grab our pastries, make a toast with our mugs and I trace the outline of my fish plate. I don’t want to go. I can’t hold it back any longer and the tears roll down my face.

We finish and bid adieu to the Burgus gal. She has been a welcomed mainstay in our morning ritual. We walk hand in hand to the harbor to say goodbye. There are way too many goodbyes here…I don’t like it.

I am now rubbing the charms of my bracelet and necklace. Hoping it means that we’ll be back (like rubbing the pig’s snout in Florence)….sooner than later. We make our last walk back towards the inn. I see Antonio in the same place where we left him. He’s chanting his mantra: “Debbie don’t go”. I can still hear those words today…his voice in my head. His voice and the ocean are the sounds of Vernazza to me. I wonder if it was really Rick Steves or Antonio who put CT on the map. Once you meet this “mayor of Vernazza”, it’s hard not to want to come back.

We make our last trek up the stairs to the inn. Somehow I’m not complaining. We say one last goodbye to that lovely stone terrace, to our room and to La Mala. We’ll be back, we say. Out the door we go…

Bye Da Piva’s. At the bottom is the trio of cats who were our first welcome into this charming village. There are a couple travelers snapping photos of them. They’re clearly used to all the hoopla. Bye kitties. We head towards the train station. Bye Antonio. I don't dare look over in his direction. I have no control and the tears just flow. Luckily, I’m wearing sunglasses to shield my red eyes. We need to be in La Spezia by noon to pick up our car rental, so we have to catch this train.

Bye Vernazza. Up at the train platform, I let it go. I am sobbing. DH puts his arm around me. I don’t care if I look like a fool. This place has a hold of me. As I type this now, tears are spilling on my keyboard…….

Next: Cinque Terre……Glad we did, wish we did.

Followed by….our first blip: The car rental nightmare. Side trip to Pisa. On the road to Tuscany…….

ON THE RAIL AGAIN…
The 30 minute train ride to La Spezia was a blur. I sobbed the entire way. I couldn’t bear to look out the window. Part of me was saying “suck it up” and “get over it”. I just couldn’t. I allowed myself a really good cry. Good thing we had a 3 hr. drive to Tuscany which would refresh my swollen red eyes.

I forgot to mention that the weather took a change today. It was chilly and cloudy compared to days’ past. A dreary day that matched my mood. I began pulling myself together….we’re on our way to Tuscany, the land of food and wine. Nothing like food and wine to make me feel molto better!

I’m not a cry baby by nature….that is what surprises me most by how easily I’m affected here. I reminded myself that this is a trip that was 2 years in the planning and 1 in the making. This was our dream trip of a lifetime and it has so far exceeded my already high expectations.

Okay, back to the train. We’re coming up to La Spezia…our stop. We get off and easily grab a taxi to the Hertz Car Rental office (about a 10 min. drive). We go in with our paperwork in hand. The clerk is as nice as can be. Everything is going smoothly. We’re to wait a few minutes until our car arrives. (note: this isn’t a car rental “lot”, it’s a satellite office. The cars are driven over as they are rented. We had an advance reservation, so we didn’t wait long).

OUR CRAPOLA CAR
Our car: a dirty (dusty, bird poop), old with dings and dents galore. We get inside and it smells of fresh smoke and there is ash on the seat (clearly, the driver was smoking in it while driving it over). The worst part….the tires are bald. We’re not happy campers.

We’d expect this type of car from a no-name agency (something like that “Ugly Duckling” car rental for 10 bucks a day), not from Hertz. DH goes back in the office and explains the dilemma. The clerk comes out to see the state of the car. He’s very polite and understands, but there is nothing he can do. Option: go to the Pisa Airport Hertz and exchange it. We take this in stride, don’t let it ruin our trip and mosey on our way….

PISA….HERE WE COME!
Off we go to Pisa. Now I should be crying not because we left CT, but because we’re in this crummy car with bald tires making a pit stop in Pisa. I brought a trial size air freshener spray which I used the whole thing up on this car. I’m glad we made the decision to exchange it. We had 7 more days to spend in the car doing long trips to Tuscan hilltowns, so we wanted something comfy (and looked somewhat decent).

The drive over was quite pleasant. Yes, we encountered the fast Italian drivers and the cool fast cars on the road (along with the really cool Fiat 500 vintage ones). To our left in the mountains was snow capped mountains….so we thought. We were in marble territory…the town of Massa. Stoneyards were on each side of the freeway for miles. Very cool.

As we approached Pisa, we could see the leaning tower in the distance. I was very excited. This was pretty cool. I thought it would be cheesy, but it was actually a very gorgeous building. We followed the signs to the airport to dump the car.

We get to the airport and find the Hertz. There are a sea of cars…all of which were free of dirt, dust, bird poop, big dents & dings, and bald tires. And…I bet they smelled fresh to boot! DH parked and head into the office. No problemo, we had our choice of cars. The clerk came outside w/ DH and laughed at the sight of our car. It was pretty comical. DH picked out a car, we loaded and we were off.

Originally when planning the trip, DH wanted to make a stop in Pisa. After reading the countless posts that it wasn’t worth it, we nixed it. Now we were here (kismet), so we decided to take a look-see.

PIZZA BREAK
I was finding myself getting cranky….it was time to eat. We made our way towards the leaning tower, parked the car and were too hungry and cold to really search out a decent lunch place. We spied a pizza place called Duomo Ristorante on the main walkway near the Piazza dei Miracoli (the lawn which houses the tower and duomo). There was a chill in the air and the pizza place looked very warm and cozy, so that was it. The search was over.

Due to its proximity to the tower, we expected it to be overpriced mediocre food. On the contrary it was quite good for what it was and they served it up quickly (very important when you’re cranky and famished). A liter of water, 2 good sized salads, a half liter of red wine (vino rosso) and a tasty pizza margherita for 24E.

Back on the walkway towards the tower. We’re getting turned off by the massive amounts of cheesy vendor stands and many who are hawking their wares. Not only that but the vendors approaching us from left and right with armfuls of wares. It was a bit overwhelming and a turn-off.. We come upon the tower and the duomo and they are stunningly beautiful buildings (aren’t they all in Italy). I can only imagine how gorgeous they are against a clear blue sky. I’m blown away by their beauty. We weren’t prepared for them to be such works of art. I’m glad we came. It was all meant to be (crapola car and all).

The areas around the great lawn were lined with vendors selling trinkets and junk. It was a shame. We wish we had time to explore inside the duomo and hang out longer, but we needed to meet the agent in Tuscany around 5ish to get our keys to the cottage. We only had time to meander for a bit and position ourselves (along with the many others) taking photos holding up the tower. It was worth it as our son still gets a kick out of those photos with Dad casually leaning up against the tower with his backside while Mom is grimacing holding it up with her hands.

BACK ON THE ROAD TO TUSCANY
We easily find our way back on the main highway and towards Tuscany. Our cottage was located in small medieval village called Sogna. So small that it doesn’t show up on most maps. This should’ve been a sign. Its closest town, Rapale, was on most maps so that was a reference point. When I found this cottage on VRBO.com (the Vacation Rental By Owner site…..I use this religiously with much success) awhile back I fell in love with it. I figured that we’d be on the road in Tuscany quite a bit, but didn’t mind…how can you not love driving through rolling hillsides? So location wasn’t too big a deal. We didn’t mind that it was out of the way.

I remember even posting about it and Fodorites mentioned (more like….warned us) about rethinking the location. That wasn’t an option for me since this cottage had it all and reeked romance, romance, romance (which it did). We were here on a 10yr Anniversary/2nd Honeymoon trip. When I have my mind made up…..

So here we are on the highway we spy the undeniable Autogrill. Hard to miss… sleek and bright red. There was even an offramp which looked like it was placed just for it. Pals back home that have been to Italy rave about this Autogrill. Supposedly it’s like (but nowhere even close to being like) those food marts at the gas stations back home.

They raved about the piles of fresh paninis in the deli case that was so reasonably priced. We were full, but naturally, could stuff another panini down. Throughout the rest of the drive we kept our eyes peeled for another Autogrill since they’re hard to miss. But, no luck.

(Note: this is as good as time as any to bring about the maps. We got the Michelin Italia and the Touring Club Italiano Toscana map while back at home and it sure helped in us planning out our trip itinerary. I also used the http://mappy.com">mappy.com and http://Michelin.com">Michelin.com sights to get point to point detailed direction. All were valuable resources.)

We’re getting closer and I’m getting butterflies in my tummy. We pass the offramp for the town of Figline in the Valdarno region. I know of this place since I’m a huge fan of Sting. I knew he had a Tuscan Villa and ironically, I just read an article in “Food and Wine” magazine about his and Trudie’s villa (or should I say estate) in Figline. I ask DH if we can stop by to say “hi”. Maybe we’ll stay for dinner. He laughs and says we need to get our cottage keys. Bummer.

The next couple offramps I recognize Montavarchi…..home of those Italian designer outlet houses….Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. I had that on the list as a possible stopover. Not that DH would get anything out of it, but it was on there all the same. I can’t imagine anything being a true “outlet” price when our exchange rate was at it’s all time high of over 1.50. It would have to be a downright real one-of-a-kind, had to have it, can’t live without it find to make sense.

We get off on the offramp that our very detailed directions to the cottage instruct. Hmmmm….so this is Tuscany? There are strip malls, industrial buildings and shops. Not the kinda Tuscany I was expecting (uh, remember those high expectations?). DH and I discuss this. I guess I imagined Tuscany to be hilltown after hilltown. We still have a ways to go to our “remote village”, so I just take in the sights.

It’s beginning to get more hilly and rustic as we make our way. We pass the small towns of Bucine and Ambra. I’m happy to report that it’s looking much more “Tuscan” (…..whatever that is) to me. Ambra is the town we are to meet our agent to get our keys. Now it is nearing 6pm. We tried to call him a few times while enroute, but it just rang and rang. Hmmm….

Next….It’s a brrrrr COLD snap! The village in heaven (literally!) and the romantic tuscan cottage

Adventureseeker,what can I say? It's school holidays for me, it's been raining for two weeks and I have been a little stir crazy and bored to snores! But not anymore ... this is the most evocative trip report ever, especially since I am in the planning process for a trip to Venice, CT and Tuscany next year. You are an inspired writer and a fun person. Meeting people like yourself whilst travelling is often the highlight of a trip. Cheers to adventure!

Brrrrrr!
When we arrived in Tuscany, they had a cold snap and it was chilly at times especially in the late afternoons. Brrrrr! 9 degrees celsius? I’m a farenheit gal, but know that whatever 9 degrees C is…it’s cold!

After a few attempts to reach our agent (who had our cottage keys) with no avail....we didn't know what to do. Luckily, he was hanging around Ambra looking for us. We got the keys and some instruction. It was nearing dinner time and we wanted to get to Sogna before nightfall.

We spied a small grocer alimentari and headed over. It was a very small store, but had the essentials for dinner that night. In our shopping bag: Fresh from the deli case: marinated artichokes, basil, pecorino cheese. A box of linguine, bag of crostini, bottle of chianti, a box of laundry detergent (this was a story in itself trying to communicate with a pack of local non-English speaking women about laundry detergent. We thought this would easily be a slam dunk to figure out...but it wasn't!) and 6 pack of water.

We had a 10 min. drive to get to the turnoff to Sogna. Once we got on that road, we encountered a group of Italian hunters seeking wild boar cinghale. We were definitely in the tuscan hills!

It was about a 15 minute drive up, up, up on white gravel roads in the Italian forest with no one in sight. We passed through the small village of Rapale which was a group of a dozen or so buildings. My guess is that Sogna (since it didn't make the map) would be even smaller.

During our daily trips, coming and going to Sogna became an adventure as we traveled through forests on gravel roads at night. I joked with DH that we could go off the side of the road and no one would ever find us. That is how remote this place is. So, you can say it was not only heavenly, but darn near located close to heaven!

We finally come onto Sogna perched high above rolling hills of trees and views of Ambra far, far below. It's gorgeous and just what I pictured. During our entire 7 night stay, we only saw one other person (one time) other than the groundskeeper who spoke no english.

No matter what the journey, We fell in love with this romantic stone cottage and looked forward to coming back home to a wood burning fire, bottle of vino and a home cooked meal (cooking was such fun with such an incredible variety of local Tuscan provisions to choose from).

This stone cottage had great attention to detail and a decorator's touch from the great art to the handmade wrought iron bed that was the most comfy of our entire trip. I was in heaven when I discovered the shelves stocked full of Italian cooking, decorating and fiction books. Everything and anything Italia...this cottage had in its library.

Many mornings I’d be wrapped in a handknit throw with a cup of tea, an Italian decorating book in hand and soft classical/Italian music in the background….a great way to start the day! It was also fun to watch some of the DVD’s that the cottage had on hand: “It’s a Beautiful Life”, “Under the Tuscan Sun” and “The English Patient”. We’d already seen these all, but they became the inspiration for our daytrips.

(note: the Tuscany itinerary was the most challenging for us to plan since we had so many places we wanted to see in a week’s time. We finalized our plan by narrowing down what/where to do in each town/region and deciding where to go just the night before. This worked for us.)

Hi Adventureseeker,
I have loved reading about your trip and I actually signed up today so I could ask you this question.
My wife and I are planning a trip to Tuscany next year for our 25th anniversary and this house sounds so special. Can you give a link to where you found it, please?
Thanks
LN

The rental is Sogna Piccolo. I highly recommend the cottage...It is SO very lovely and perfect.

We wish we were there when it is warmer since the pool is incredible (the pool and laundry units are shared by the entire hamlet).

However, keep in mind that Sogna is EXTREMELY remote and about an hour's drive away from all the major hilltowns. (logistically, it isn't the greatest) and the drive up to Sogna in the dark (which we did regularly) can be a bit daunting. But....oh so worth it!

The U.K. owner of the cottage was FABULOUS to deal with.

Any more questions?...I'll be happy to answer.

If you're REALLY interested after viewing the site, I'd be happy to round up a slew of photos from Sogna and the cottage and post it as a slideshow...just say the word!

Let me join the many, many people on this forum who have enjoyed every second of reading your posts! My husband and I (both in our mid-60s and nearly newlyweds) will be embarking on our "trip of a lifetime"--one month in Italy--on Wednesday, the 30th of April. We'll be staying in a house in a little town in northwest Tuscany--Seravezza--and will be visiting all of the places you talk about. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you'll have posted your "Hill Town" adventures before we leave. If not, we'll just compare notes when we get home. Thanks again for putting your heart and soul into sharing with us!

From the white slipcovered couches to the art to the most comfortable bed with snow white pillows galore and down comforter to the luxe Busatti towels. This cottage spared no expense in fine details. A blend of old world Tuscany with modern luxury.

We only wish that we had warmer weather to enjoy the pool and dining alfresco (we did manage to have one gorgeous breakfast under the pergola!).

Thanks for answering my post. We can't wait for next Wednesday to come, especially after having read all of this forum--many parts of it more than once. We've appreciate all of the comments made by others as well.

We're doing lots of playing it by ear. I'm sure that on some days we'll just head off for parts unknown and see what adventures we can find. I found a wonderful book called Tuscany and Umbria's Best-Loved Driving Tours, and I'm sure we'll do at least a couple of those. There are lots of great restaurants in some of the surrounding hilltop towns, and we plan to try some of them out.

Our first "planned" activity is an overnight to Florence to celebrate birthdays and anniversary. We have tickets for Carmen directed by Zubin Mehta--part of a music festival that takes place there yearly. The next morning we'll have time for David and the Uffizi and some exploring in the area. I'm sure that we'll be in Florence at some other time during the month as well since 2 different couples will be joining us--one for the first week and another for the 2nd and 3rd. We're meeting the second couple in Venice (we'll travel there by train) on the 11th. We took your advice and have booked the Secret Itineraries Tour. Also plan to wander through the off-the-beaten-track areas that you explored. The only bit of shopping that we've planned for sure is a in a certain mask shop that is supposed to be "the best in Venice."

Of course, Cinque Terre is also on the itinerary; it's very close to Seravezza. I loved your description and I can't wait to find Storie!

Another destination where we'll spend a few of days is the area south of Florence, including Siena and hill towns. And, of course, we plan to do lots of wine tasting--and lots of eating!

The rest of the trip is pretty loose; I think we'll do lots of planning as we go. I'll let you know how that goes when we get back.

We're ending the trip with three days in Rome and have booked tours with Context Rome. I took a couple of their tours 8 years ago when I went to Italy with a friend. The tours were great and worth every penny. Now they're lots more pennies, but we think that by that time we'll want to have some hand holding!

*Pienza gets our vote for the most picturesque town we visited. So quaint and charming. We enjoyed our lunch at the cozy Latte di Luna. And then there’s the delectable Pecorino cheese….mamma mia!

*Montalcino and Montepulciano: two fabulous hilltowns with character, history, enotecas and great shopping.

*Museo della Communita di Montalcino e del Brunello (the Brunello Museum) in Montalcino was an amazing lesson in the history of the wine making famiglia and excellent museum about Montalcino.

*lunch and wine cellar tour at Fattoria dei Barbi. Centuries old family winery.

*Sant’Antimo Abbey. The Gregorian chanting by the monks, the church and the grounds are DEFINITELY worth a look.

*The drives through the countryside to each of these towns was stunning. It was all like a picture postcard. I took countless photos of sheep grazing, cypress trees and villas that dotted the countryside. We vowed to come back during the other 3 seasons to see how different the landscape looked.

*Our adventure in local supermarkets: We were sent back to the produce area to weigh and label all our fruits/veggies. It was overwhelming to see all the cheeses, meats, etc. available. We didn’t have an access card to unlock the shopping carts. We loved perusing the aisles to see all the different foods, labels, brands.

*Sensory overload: the Tuscan fog setting between the hills, the changing color of the leaves, the smell of wood burning fireplaces, the crisp Autumn air, the flaming sunsets, the taste of local olive oil (liquid gold!), the art, the feel of stone.

Up next....our Tuscany Photo Slideshow, first morning in Sogna and Siena!

OUR FIRST TUSCAN MORNING
First morning in Sogna Piccola….I expected that being our first day in Tuscany that I’d get my expected jitters of anticipation and not sleep soundly. On the contrary, this bed was SO comfortable. Not only the mattress, but the bedding was top of the line with its high thread count….it was like sleeping on a cloud.

It was hard to get out of bed, but I managed and let DH continue his ZZZzzz’s. I went into the 2nd bedroom to unpack. Just like our layout at La Mala, we had a small second room. This one had a bed and handpainted wardrobe armoire that I claimed the entire room as my very own “walk-in closet”.

We were here for a week and with the convenient laundry facilities (shared by the rest of the hamlet) we planned to wash up our dirty clothes for the 2nd half of our trip.

I enjoyed this task of unpacking since I could lay out many of my accessories. Scarves on this hook, bracelets in the ceramic bowl, hats in the basket. There was a much larger handpainted armoire in the Master which DH could call his own.

Downstairs I went and took a peek outside. It looked chilly and there was a slight wind. I made some tea, changed my clothes and headed out to explore Sogna.

As I stepped outside, the 2 village cats were waiting on the stairs to say, "Buon giorno". Yup, it was chilly but so beautiful and crisp. The old stone buildings were awash in the morning light.

Because this hamlet called Sogna sat on top of a hill every view from every angle was different. On this side were the hills covered in trees and the “Tuscan fog” setting in it like we were on top of a cloud. On the other side was the town of Ambra far below. It was like a ghost town, not a soul in sight.

We parked in one of two designated parking “lots” for the guests/residents. Needless to say that our car was the only one in our lot for the entire 7 days. The other lot at the front of Sogna had 2 cars which never moved the entire time.

I was enjoying Sogna and imagined what it was like way back when. I found the pool area which looked so lovely and inviting, but it was so cold out that taking a dip was unimaginable. I stumbled across the petite church which was locked up and the old cemetery across the way.

It was obvious that this hamlet was well taken care of. As I ventured out a bit past the entrance to Sogna, I came across an Italian gent who was doing work on the hillside. He had his trusty old “Ape” (those cute golf cart looking trucks that are popular all over Tuscany) loaded with garden tools. We both waved. Must be the Sogna groundskeeper.

I was exhilarated and refreshed. Back to Piccola where I found DH still asleep. I couldn’t blame him for slumbering in that heavenly bed. I made myself some tea, wrapped myself in the handknit wool throw and began leafing through the first stack of many books.

The first book I thumbed through was one of Frances Mayes’ Italian décor books. A quote she had in there struck me...like lightning: “Chi piu’ conosce piu’ ama, pi’ amando piu’ gusta” by Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Siena. Translation: “The more you know, the more you love , and by loving more, the more you enjoy”. That summed it all up for me….why I travel, why I plan like I do, why I immerse myself . It gave me goosebumps.

The book also stated that Iris Origo, the author of “War in the Val D’Orcia” (an Italian war diary) had this same quote on her tombstone. That was on our list, to go to the garden tour at La Foce near Montepulciano. Now I had MORE reasons to go.

DH came downstairs and I made him a cup of tea whilst we nibbled on some crostini and olives for a snack. We sat and lingered talking about a plan for the day. The cottage was also stocked with guidebooks and an overstuffed accordion file with maps, brochures, etc. of the sights in Tuscany. I pulled out a slew of info about Siena and since it was fairly close (30 minutes) we decided that would be our “hilltown du jour”.

We weren’t in any hurry and just took our time reading and then showered and got ready to face the day. It was so nice to relax and be leisurely in this comfy cottage.

One of the things we needed to do today was to go to the supermarket and load up on supplies for the week. It was Sunday and most (if not all) of the grocers in this small region were closed for the day.

SIENA OR BUST
We grab our map (and the handy dandy intensive Tuscany street atlas that the cottage had) and we’re off. Dressed in jackets, scarves and hats, it was getting biting cold. We drove via the country roads and encountered those stacked signs at the intersection that had about a dozen arrowed signs on a post. This way to Siena, that way to Arezzo, this way to Florence, that way to Valdarno.

We easily found Siena. It wasn’t what I had expected. It was commercialized than I thought it would be and the roads not so user friendly as I anticipated.

We followed the signs to the “Historical Centre”. Aha….the historical centre was the stone walled town that we were looking for. We consider ourselves to be pretty adept when it comes to directions and following signs, but found ourselves driving round and round trying to find out how to get in and where to park.

We finally got into the stone walls and had a difficult time finding parking. There were parking “lots” for residents”, for tourist buses and we found a few for visitors, but all were full. From this point it took a whole hour (no exaggeration!) for us to find parking. We were close to giving up and not having a very good first impression of Siena. This was not fun and we were hungry.

After going by the same area for the third time, we found parking. Thank heavens! With all the research I had done on Tuscany, I wish I would’ve done more about the logistics and more about the layout of the town.

We had parked near the fort fortezza, so we decided to climb up the stairs and have a look see which rewarded us with incredible views of the historic skyline. It was pretty cool walking on top and seeing the towers and buildings of the main part of Siena.

Outside the fort was lined with vendors (Sunday street fair) which were now in the midst of packing up. From above, I saw that I really wasn’t missing anything (most stuff were new clothing, cheap trinkets, etc….not cool artisan items or antiques).

We took a look at our map and followed a scenic path towards the campo. Once inside the historic walls of Siena we walked the beautiful cobblestone streets towards the middle of town.

THE SANTA CATERINA CONNECTION
We followed these not-so-busy pathways and I saw a sign to Santa Caterina’s Casa and Sanctuary. BINGO! I’ve now got this undeniable connection with her, so naturally we had to check it out. It was kismet that we came in the way we did….everything happens for a reason. The sanctuary and grounds were quite small and beautiful. It gave me goosebumps and an eerie feeling to be here…like I was meant to be here.

FONTE GUISTA…A MEAL OF CHAMPIONS
We continued on our way and decided it was (way past) time for lunch. The route we took wasn’t busy at all and it was quite pleasant. The street was lined with buildings upon buildings, some with storefronts (all closed).

DH took a path to another side street which had some café’s on it. In front of us now was a team of soccer (futbol) players. They beelined to a trattoria on our left called Trattoria Fonte Guista…..naturally, we followed them in. We took it as a sign of good food. And…that it was!

It was a lively place. We were seated near a big group of Italians (40+) having a banquet lunch. Platters and platters of food kept coming out. It all looked delish!
This was another local’s joint with a menu all in Italian (and it was very warm and cozy inside) and not many (if at all) Americanos. This place was known for it’s Chianina beef and that was evident by the glass case filled with massive cuts of raw beef.

Our server was delightfully pleasant. We dined on tasty Tuscan white beans drizzled in awesome olive oil, bruschetta, handmade porcini ravioli swimming in a pumpkin puree, “rocket” (arugula) salad and Tuscany’s famous Florentine steak from the Chianina beef (fabulous). All washed down with a nice ½ bottle of Rosso di Montepulciano. Huge portions of simple food and fabulous flavors. An incredible deal at 42E. This was our favorite meal in all of Tuscany. (see our food and drink photo slideshow http://flickr.com/photos/debandstan/sets/72157603706202008/)

PIAZZA DEL CAMPO
After a very satisfying lunch, we contimued our way towards the center of town…the famous Piazza del Campo. Closer to the Campo it reminded us of Florence with its swanky boutiques and more crowds. We noticed that the closer to the campo you got, so did the prices inflate.

We checked out a few ceramic boutiques which nothing really struck my fancy. I collect old Italian pottery and was hoping to find some artisan ceramics in Tuscany that was very unique. Most of what I saw was the same pattern, print, colors, etc.

One shop we stumbled into was Artigianato Babel which had an array of uniquely painted beautiful pieces. They had 2 shops in Siena. I fell in love with a collection that was their famiglia “designer” collection of handpainted exclusive pieces with a price tag to match. I loved it all, but it was pricey.

I opted not to buy any thinking that I’d have 6 more days at other hilltowns that I expected I would have oodles (and less expensive) to choose from. That wasn’t the case as I came home empty-handed without a single ceramic piece.

We made our way to the gorgeous campo which is a “clam shape” and is touted as one of Italy’s most beautiful (we agree!). It’s where the annual Palio (horse race) is held. Wow, it was awesome.

I was never really interested in the Palio until now. We had seen a couple shows on TV back home about it, but being here inspired us to learn more about it. I imagined how alive this campo got during the event.

We really tried hard to hang out longer and considered the climb to the top of the tower, but it was biting cold. The tradeoff with the cold (and being in Tuscany the 3rd week in October), we had very limited tourists. Every town we visited was very manageable and none we complained were overrun w/ tourists. Although, we suspect that Siena is always busy and being there on a Sunday when they have their street fair made it more so.

Inside the campo’s tower atrium was an amateur photography exhibit. We enjoyed that for awhile. The atrium was a beautiful setting with stone, arches and statues. Back outside we tried to sit in the campo and enjoy the views like the couple dozen others, but it was uncomfortably cold and we needed to keep moving and the blood circulating.

We stepped into a few boutiques one of which had linens and kitchen goods. There were Mediterranean olivewood spoons, boards, etc. similar to the ones I bought as gifts in Vernazza. The Ligurian olivewood looked more rich and was less expensive than these, so that even made me more happy about my previous purchases.

I saw a shop that had linens called Busatti. I recognized our exquisite towels from the cottage as these Busatti. I went inside to check it out further. No purchases, just browsing!

It was late afternoon and the sun was going down making these alleyways colder. We had hoped to check out the duomo and church, but opted out. We left Siena feeling that we never really it our due. Maybe we'll have time to go back this trip. DH was already game to go back and eat at Fonte Guista!

We needed to be sure to find a grocery store (the more popular and stocked being the Coop which were closed on Sundays except for the larger ones in larger towns) to stock up.

CIAO SIENA!
We got back on the road and head back to Ambra where there were no grocers open (no surprise!). We should’ve stopped at one in Siena….oh well! The drive back was spectacular . The sun setting on the hills made them appear a glowing red….bellisimo!

The night was falling so we needed to make an executive decision about dinner. We wanted something quick and simple then head back to the warm cottage and fire. Being that it is Sunday in a small rural town, there weren’t many (if any) choices for dining.

We see an obviously “mom and pop” pizzeria ristorante called Orient Express. I’m thinking Chinese food in Tuscany? Then I see a sign w/ neon train, hence “Orient Express”. It’s open. There are a couple cars there. We have no other choice, but to go for it.

We step inside and it’s a big place and just one other couple there. In the corner is a TV with an Italian car race on. Our server excuses himself from the TV to come over and offer us drinks/menu. The prices were outrageously reasonable. ½ liter of vino 3E, margherita pizza 3E, etc.

We were tired and starving. We began with 2 insalata mistas, next came DH’s spaghetti w/ olive oil and roasted garlic (a very simplistic, but intensely flavorful meal. I can taste this today. We’ve attempted to recreate this very simple dish at home, but it’s just not the same!), pizza cipolla (3E, cracker thin crust with roasted cipolline onions, fresh tomatoes and pools of real mozzarella cheese & olive oil…and the size of a large pizza at home.) and DH ordered a chicken breast doused in a tasty mushroom sauce. …All that yummy goodness with a ½ liter of natural aqua for the bargain price of 28E. We were very HAPPY campers indeed!

I ask to take home the pizza (1/2) which will serve as breakfast tomorrow! By the time we left there are a few Italian families that have come in and, of course, all know the owners.

The drive up to the cottage seemed to take forever. I just so wanted to get out of the car. On the gravel road up, DH spots a slew of small branches and twigs. He stops and loads up the trunk of our car for our fires. We have unlimited firewood for our cottage, but mostly are large pieces and we needed more starter. I see him in the review mirror and think, “my hero”!

I can’t wait to get into my jammies, have a warm fire and watch a DVD back at the cottage. Tonight’s DVD pick, “The English Patient”. Again, one we’ve seen many times, but it takes on a new life as we are here in Italy.

Off to dreamland………..

Next up....our Tuscan photo slideshow, a very lazy day in Sogna and charming Monte San Savino.

Awww another fantastic instalment!!! You really paint a pretty picture - I bet u wish u were back there now as ure writing?!!

Wee question for u if u dont mind Debbie, myself and my boyfriend will be staying in Florence for 3 nights - on the 3rd day we are going to hire a car and explore tuscany. My plan is to head to San Gimignano for a hour or so then thru Val d'orica to Pienza then back up to Florence via the Chianti region, maybe stopping off in Greve for dinner... I know this is quite a long drive but I def think its do-able and would be worth it and luckily my bf doesnt mind long drives!

Question is, do u think Siena is worth including? We are also stopping off in Lucca the following morning on our way to La Spezia.

I think you've got a full day in Tuscany that will work beautifully since you'll have a driver to keep you on track and also show you the "best of the best" in your day trip.

Siena is lovely and we just didn't have the time (nor was the weather cooperating) to see all there is to see there.

I think the best advice is to get some suggestion from your driver to see what he/she thinks about adding Siena. Sounds like your day is packed, so you're either going to have to start earlier or rearrange your plan.

1) The Squero is in the Dorsoduro district on the Rio di San Trovaso canal. You should easily find it on a map and walk on the walkway towards the Zattere Promenade. It's very easy to spot across the canal with it's chalet-like architecture.

2) DH wore a stylish button down long sleeve shirt and twill pants with nice (somewhat dressy) shoes. Nothing fancy. This worked perfectly for the restaurants we dined at. Some diners were dressed up and some down, so DH was right in there.

And once you find the Squero (yes it is on the San Travaso Canal), keep walking a little bit until you come to a corner gelato shop called Lo Squero. The best ice cream I have ever eaten in my life (and I'm not an ice cream fanatic): nocciola (hazelnut) and pistachio. So good, I made a special second trip back and have 6 photos of myself on the nearby bridge eating gelato and looking ecstatic !!

Bellissimo! Truly, what a beautiful - no, captivating report! I welled up with tears when you described The David and then again when you spoke of leaving the CT. Italy does bring out the best in you and inspire you to live a fuller life! Cheers to you! Your trip report has allowed me to reflect again on our family trip to Italy (Rome, Positano, Tuscany and Venice) last summer and to dream of new locations to visit. Thank you!

I also am addicted to these boards and have enjoyed your marvelous trip report and gotten some valuable tips from it. We are using a personal trip planner that we found (on good recommendation) to book our hotels, tours, side trip ideas, car rental, etc. She is marvelous, but it is a little hard for me to let go since I love to plan vacations. It's scary to plan them when you are including friends though - a little too much pressure if the hotel is not great, etc.

I was in Italy in July 2005 with 2 of our daughters and it was very hot the entire time. My husband has not been there before, so we are looking forward to our trip very much! I have never been in Europe in the Fall, so don't know quite what to expect, weather-wise, since it is a transitional season.

I have some clothing/packing questions for you. We want to minimize our packing as much as possible.
How was the weather/temperature? (Our trip is about 3 weeks earlier than yours was and of course, the weather can be variable from year to year).
Did you take mostly long pants and closed toed shoes, or did you have crop pants or skirts and sandals, too?
If both, how much did you use each one?
We will certainly be including small umbrellas, and jacket/sweater options.
We want to be prepared, but not overpack. I am not the best at minimal packing, but can certainly do it if needed.
I have checked www.weatherunderground.com, but am looking for advice from someone who has been there at a similar time of year. Any helpful advice from your experience would be great. Thanks!

Sorry all for taking an extended break. I'll be back soon to finish Tuscany!

Mktopks,

I apologize in advance if this is too much info....

Before (and during) our trip, I followed the weather forecast to be sure to pack accordingly. We were in Venice Oct 11-15, Florence Oct 15-17, Cinque Terre Oct 17-20, Tuscany Oct 20-27 and back in Florence Oct 27-28.

Florence: We had some cloudiness and slight drizzle, so out came the pants.

Cinque Terre: pleasant and during hikes I wore crop pants and layered with a light pullover. Tuscany on the other hand was a different story...they had a cold snap that was biting cold.

Tuscany: We didn't let it damper (literally) our trip. We just bundled up, layered and wrapped in scarves. I took a black peacoat (not wool) and DH had a black light jacket. This all worked well. I also took a light chocolate brown vest.

I guess the best advice I can give is to coordinate and bring pieces you can layer. My best investment for the trip were 3 pieces from J.Jill's Essential (I think that's what its called) line: black flowing wide leg pant & crop and a sienna brown skirt. They were wrinkle free and comfy. The pashminas (I took 3: red, turquoise and black) were godsends. Not only were they functional, but stylish. They added a punch of color and changed up the outfits without taking up too much space. I ended up purchasing 2 (heavier) wool-like shawls in Venice (one in moss green and the other in brown). I wore them to death.

SHOES: We walked up a storm, so comfort was key. I took a pair of Kenneth Cole flats that had a Mary Jane "look" to them. They were comfy and broken in (very important). A pair of neutral euro style sneakers (mine are Skechers) that have the criss cross velcro closure. I did want something dressy for night so I brought a pair of Sofft (handmade European) wedge heel sandals that were both stylish and comfy. The last pair: closed toe walking shoes that doubled for hiking and just cruising around. That covered it for me.

Misc: I brought 4 hats: a leopard print scrunch hat and black fleece both that pulls down below ears. A roll up linen/cotton wide brim "sunhat" and a baseball cap. These were crucial when we encountered the cold snap. Also: added a clutch black purse to the group for evenings out.

I've heard it said to pick out either black or brown and go from there. I sprinkled in a bit of both and felt that I packed just right.

Thanks so much for the clothing and packing information. It helps to hear from someone who was there in a similar timeframe. October can go "either way" with weather and packing light is our plan, with room to bring home goodies.

Where did you get the parachute duffles you used for packing your dirty clothes? Were they able to be checked for your return flight? I've only seen packable type bags that go over your shoulder, but don't zip closed for checking (who really cares if your dirty clothes get delayed on your way home? - not me!).

We stayed at Residenza Il Villino in Florence in 2005 and it was fantastic! Looking forward to hearing about your impressions of Sergio and his beautiful little inn. We will only have a day trip visit to Florence this time, but would stay at Il Villino again in a heartbeat!

LOVED Il Villino and Sergio....It was a perfect inviting welcome after a nightmare-ish car rental return in Florence.

We got our parachute duffles from Crate and Barrel (brand: Selected by Sagafoam) at a bargain price of $14 each. They were so incredibly compact on the way over and so incredibly filled to the gills on the way home. They were easily checked and no prob.

What a fantastic trip report! Can't wait to read more, particularly as we are spending time in Florence and the Val d'Orcia this Sept! We also have reservations at Il Villino, but the breakfast situation sounds a little awkward... I don't mind a somewhat leisurely breakfast, but I wouldn't want to feel obliged to stay longer than, say, 30 minutes or so on it. Did you feel "stuck" there for longer than that?

Glad you loved La Mala. This summer we are going back to the Cinque Terre and are trying out La Mala instead of our beloved Arpaiu, just to mix it up a bit! We are in room 26 for 3 nights and then 31 for 2 nights. From your report, it sounds like we will be pleased with our selection.

It will be a short trip for us with 5 days in Vernazza and then 4 days in Montepulciano. I struggled with whether to do anything but the Cinque Terre, but after a dozen trips to Italy, we really need to see Tuscany!

I saw in your report that you might stay in Montepulciano next time. As I believe we have similar hotel tastes, check out this place where we are staying: La Locanda di San Francesco.

I have LOVED your trip report! I hope you are going to post the final installments soon. I've also enjoyed perusing your pictures on Flickr. You are as talented with photography as you are with writing!

I'm very new to the Fodor's Boards, so forgive me if this has been suggested here a million times before, but have you seen the documentary "The Last Victory" about the Palio in Siena? DH and I really enjoyed that, especially having been to the Piazza del Campo.

We are planning our fourth trip to Italy this fall. At this stage in our life (three school-age children at home and limited flexibility for DH to be away from the office), week-long trips are all we can manage, so we're seeing the country a bit at a time.

This time we were contemplating relaxing for the entire week at Lake Como and taking a few day trips, but your description of the Cinque Terre has made me want to spend at least three of our nights in Vernazza. We're flying in and out of Milan, but I'm still up in the air about stopping there to see its Duomo and the Last Supper.

Thank you again for sharing your wonderful story. I'm off to email La Mala to inquire about a room in September!

AMAZING, amazing Adventureseeker! Thank you so much for sharing your beautiful journey. This probably won't be your first offer, but would you consider selling your tabbed notebook??? I need it... I'll be meeting my college daughter in 16 days!!! I can hardly contain myself.

On one of your early post you mentioned you downloaded -iPod: loaded with 2 playlists just for the trip: Italy-classics and Italy-lounge mix. May I ask where you found the music, especially the lounge mix?

I'll be back in Tuscany "mode" soon to finish (that has a very sad "ring" to it).

Katiekate,

My iPod playlists were just mixes I made. I got most from CD's in my own collection, but I used iTunes alot. I made a mini list on a post I made earlier. Check them out on iTunes. The Pottery Barn Cafe Lounge CD is a classic that is a staple for gatherings at our home.

I've been trying without success to locate a copy of Pottery Barn's Cafe Lounge CD. I don't think PB makes them anymore. Amazon has quite a few of their other mixes available, but it doesn't even have Cafe Lounge listed so I can't find its playlist.

I certainly don't want to take you away from writing your Tuscany installment (hint hint), but if you have a chance, could you post the songs on that CD so I can purchase them individually and compile my own "Cafe Lounge" playlist on my iPod?

I hope you can find some music you like from these lists. We make collaborations of these for parties/gatherings at our home and our friends constantly ask about the music, so we've made it a habit to make CD's for our friends as parting gifts.

adventureseeker,
What a great report! I was facinated by it. Don't know how you make the time to post, but it is certainly well appreciated!
MY husband and I are leaving for my dream trip to Italy on Sept 5th. our first stop is Vernazza where we will be staying at La Mala (after reading many posts).
We could only get room #26 for 4 of our 5 night stay so we are transferring to # 19 for the last night, unless they get a cancellation. It sounds like you liked #26 better than #31. Am I right? After reading your report I REALLY can't wait to get there!
Thanks again for such a detailed report--very helpful.----K.

I'm so green with envy. To be in Vernazza at La Mala for 5 nights....I guarantee you won't want to leave.

We LOVED room #26. It is the most romantic and private of all (no adjoining walls except room #31 above. So much light and the room downstairs with the window to the sea is idyllic. I could go on and on........

Please take good care of our room #26 for us! And....have a slab of green olive focaccia for us!

There are trip reports and then there are trip reports. Wow, wow, wow. Simply incredible. Great style. Great command of the language. And great story telling. This has obviously been a part-time job for you. Thank you for making the tremendous effort.

Altho CT is on our list, I really didn't have a good feel for what it is. Do now!!

Aquagirl: not sure when the gondola price peaks, but when we grabbed one, there were only 2 gondoliers at the dock (pick up your ride at the loading area on the Orseolo canal just behind St. Mark's. You'll avoid the hoardes/prices on the Grand Canal).

Adventureseeker. You are amazing! I am traveling to Italy for 10 days in September beginning at the LO in Venice for 2 nights. Our time at each stop is limited (2 nights Venice, 2 nights CT, 3 nights Montalcino and 3 nights Rome) so I am trying to get as much information to be as efficent as possible and these tips are invaluable. Thanks for your great report!

After having stayed at LO last fall
for 3 nights, it's the only place I
would go to in Venice. If there were a downside, it's that the breakfast are so wonderful one will
never have any room for lunch at the
great places recommended on this board !! I could never summon the
nerve to ask Barbara for the receipe
for the fruit filled cake.
Perhaps I could put Reddots up to
this task !!

Your review is amazing. Thank you so much for all the advice. Loved the pictures too! What type of camera did you take with you to Italy? We are going in a few weeks and can't decide if we should take a small portable one or our big one. What do you think?

I used a Canon PowershotA540 (4X optical zoom and 6.0 pixels). I swear by Canon digitals. This is my second Canon Powershot and I HIGHLY recommmend it.

Since I'm a photoholic, I considered buying a bulky digital SLR for the trip, but so glad I didn't. I took hundreds and hundreds of photos on my Canon and brought back 3 filled-to-the-brim memory cards and "pointed and shot" anything and everything as well as used the camera for a dozen videos.

I'm also glad we left the camcorder at home. Quick, easy was what I was looking for. And...more importantly, I was so very pleased with the photos/videos captured.

Even nearly a year ago, these photos are my prized treasures and just like this report (which has become my legible journal), they are priceless to me.

I'm back! This has been a bittersweet week for us. It has been a year since our "19 day glorious October 2007 trip to Italy". We bask in daily conversations of "what were doing right now, a year ago?" Such wonderful memories to last a lifetime....

Thank you for taking this journey with us on our trip report.....

TUSCANY

Part 4 (October 22, 2007)

Day 13

A lazy day in Sogna and the charming town of Monte San Savino!

DAY 2 TUSCAN MORNING
Another cozy morning in the cottage. I woke at 6:40am...wanting to just laze away in this heavenly bed yet anxious to plant myself in the slipcovered chair downstairs with a cup of tea, wrapped in the warm knitted throw, listening to classical music while writing in my journal and figuring out what the "hilltown du jour" would be. So, up I got.....

Before all this, I opened up the interior wooden panel that covered the windows to say "good morning" to Sogna. Sogna looked colder than the morning before. The clouds hung low and I was glad to be inside and warm.

Another morning that I had to nix my picture-perfect idea of having a tuscan breakfast al fresco under a not-so-sun-dappled pergola. Oh well! We still had 5 more mornings to create that scenario. Besides, we haven't been to the grocer yet to load up on supplies.

Last night we talked about just chillin' (literally) at the cottage to do 12 days of dirty laundry and enjoy the cottage. That sounded appealing, but I felt we needed to at least load up on groceries. Our hopes of doing that task yesterday didn't work out with most grocery stores in smaller towns being closed on Sundays.

I get up to change the CD and notice an MP3 connection to the stereo system....cool! I retrieve my iPod, plug it in and voila! I go to my "Italy-lounge" playlist and sink back down in the chair.

I wonder about how happy I am at this moment...a trip so long in the planning that we still have a week left to explore and has so far been beyond our wildest dreams. I think about what it would be like on our next trip to Italy (and of course, there will be another, and another, etc.).

PONDERING
Would it be as wonderful? There is no doubt. After doing many of the "must-do's" "top 10's" and "must-sees" on many traveler's lists, our next trip will be filled with more lingering, sitting at cafes, engaging with the locals and doing more of the off-the-beaten path adventures. Which I'm glad to say we did much of all the above, managed to cross our "musts" off the list and still be spontaneous to make unexpected discoveries.

A handful of songs later, Sting blares through my iPod. I think about his estate close by in Figline. Again, I want to pinch myself on how lucky I feel to be here. To make it more perfect, our son would be here with us and our golden retriever curled up in front of a warm crackling fire. Hmmm...a warm fire would really be nice right now!

I hear DH scrambling upstairs and I go to pour him a cup of tea. Our cupboards are bare, but we always travel with our fave teas (Tazo: Lotus Green Tea and Passion blend). I look in the fridge to see what we can scare up for breakfast. There are a couple yogurts, so that will work.

Back to my spot on the chair. I hear DH opening the shutter to say good morning to Sogna. He then makes his way downstairs, grabs his cup of tea and joins me. We talk about our daily plan and have our yogurts. The verdict: laundry and an afternoon drive....Sounds good to me.

After a good hour, we finally peel ourselves off the couch and begin our task of "life in a tuscan cottage".....laundry!

LAUNDRY AND SNAKES...OH MY!
We were shown the village laundry room yesterday by the only person we saw during our entire 7 day stay in Sogna. She is from London and owns a cottage here. While showing us the laundry room which was its own picturesque stone cottage, she told us to keep the door locked and closed to "keep the snakes out". Yikes! She said they were harmless, nevertheless....yikes! (I'm happy to report that we encountered no snakes....phew!)

We were a sight lugging our dirty laundry through this sleepy picturesque village. But then again, there were no other souls to witness this spectacle.

Inside the laundry room was a washing machine, dryer, and a clothesline (and no snakes). All machines were in German. Luckily, the instruction manual was nearby, but not in English. We managed to figure out some of the buttons (we think), and I'm happy to report that our clothes came out just fine.

We spent a couple hours doing a few loads of filled-to-the brim dirty laundry. It felt good to get this task completed and all we needed to do now was to get some groceries. We had a list of all the local Farmer's Markets as this was the way we really wanted to load up.....just like the locals do. There were none in the nearby towns for the next couple of days.

It's 2pm, we're done with our chores, dressed (in bundled layers) and ready to head out. Our destination: Monte San Savino. This would be our hilltown du jour. We basically took out the map and did an "eenie-meenie-mynie-moe" at the nearby towns. Did I mention how blistery cold it is?

ON THE ROAD TO MONTE SAN SAVINO
Monte San Savino is very small medievel hilltown 25 minutes from Sogna (keep in mind that 10-15 minutes is the drive downhill!).

On the drive downhill we were on the lookout for kindling and smaller wood. Next to our cottage was the fornaio which housed cords of firewood. All of which were too large and damp to really get a good fire going all night long. To no avial, we searched high and low for an axe in the cottage. This was bumming me out...I wanted a fire every night, all night long.

We get to the roundabout intersection and see that infamous scene all throughout Tuscany: a handful of roadsigns with a gazillion hilltown names and arrows pointing in their direction. Bingo....we see Monte San Savino. Off we go.....

We are happy to take this winding, leisure drive in the scenic countryside. We comment how different and lovely it must look during all seasons. It still has much green, but this cold snap has Mother Nature working her magic as we begin to see some glorious Autumn colors of reds, oranges and yellows. Gorgeous! I see smoke coming out the chimneys of stone cottages sprinkled here and there. I roll my window down to take in the heavenly perfume of Autumn: crisp air, dewy leaves and woodburning fires.

We easily arrive at Monte San Savino and are thrilled that there is more than enough places to park outside of the town wall. (Remember our fiasco yesterday in Siena?). This is a very welcoming sight, indeed. There is also no one in sight. We spy a few of my fave cars parked (rusty old fiats, land rovers, etc. in need of some major TLC).

Near our parking spot is an antique store that had its larger pieces strewn outside. We immediately notice a rusty vintage Italian motorbike....very cool! Unfortunately, it was midday and although the store was wide open, we believe that the owner was taking his/her siesta!

OUR FIRST ENCOUNTER-THE AFTERNOON SIESTA
It's about 2:30pm and the rule still holds true....Italians love (and partake of) their afternoon siesta! As we easily made our way beyond the walls of this charming small town, not a store was open nor was a soul around. There were a few antique stores with wonderful wares in the window (including a very curious black/white gatto (cat) minding shop. It was biting cold and if only we could hold out to check out these charming shops when the owner returns from his siesta!

TIP #1: don't start your day in Tuscany at the beginning of Siesta time!

Although it is very cold, we're enjoying the lack of crowds and the serenity of having our very own Tuscan hilltown to ourselves (that is until we realize how hungry we are!). A far cry from bustling and busy Siena.

TIP #2: don't arrive hungry at the beginning of Siesta time!

I read that Monte San Savino was one of the first urban settlements in Tuscany. It was a small village filled with a plethora of tiny churches and great architectural buildings. I take photos of rusty wrought iron crosses and ceramic religious icons perched at the top of the stone arches. (remember the tip from Venice: Look up for interesting discoveries). These images looked even more gorgeous against the gray cold sky. There are many old clocks at the top of buildings and I snap away...yet another subject to add to my photo collection: clocks.

As we wandered down the cobbled street (which really was more like an alley), we came across a Palazzo (palace) and wandered through the atrium while exploring the inner courtyard and halls. A placard read that it was a convent...a very old one. It was hauntingly beautiful and made for a excellent photo op. Plus...it was warmer inside the battered old stone walls.

When we make it back on the street, the cold seems to have kicked into high gear. I pulled my neck scarf up to cover the lower part of my face.

THAR SHE BLOWS....A CAFE'!
We finally stumble across a cafe' (that is surprisingly open) and beeline in. Not sure if we're more cold or hungry, we belly up to the bar to order. I've got a slight sweet tooth, but the pastries in the case don't look appealing to satisy my craving. I order a hot cocoa and DH is intrigued by the tapped spout of "gassato acqua" (carbonated water) and "non-gassato acqua"(still water) on the counter, so he orders a....water (non-gas). It's more of a modern style coffeehouse, not so "tuscan" and cozy. We grab a table and enjoy being in the company of others. Although there is only one other customer quietly reading the newspaper.

POTTERY FESTIVAL???
I see a poster of an "Italian Ceramic Pottery festival"...right here in Monte San Savino. And it is today! Yippee! It's now 4pm and we make our way to the festival. We find the place protected by tall heavy wooden doors held together by an ancient thick rusted chain and lock. Signs are posted everywhere about the festival, but no one is around. I peer in through the crack and see some pottery plaques on the walls displayed in the courtyard, but no sign of life. We decide that siesta is still in affect and walk around a bit more to keep the blood circulating and to wait out the "festival" reopening.

It's kinda funny that it really isn't wasn't a festival, but more of a showing. At the top of my list was to bring back some unique Italian Pottery. I collect little dishes, bowls and mini-pitchers from Italy which all I have found at flea markets, antique stores and on eBay. I was on a quest to bring some home.

We stick around for another 45 minutes and are enjoying this sleepy little off-the-beaten path Tuscan hilltown. We wander down narrow alleyways and come across a walkway that is on the outside of the walled town. The surrounding hills are lush and green with a sprinkling of villa here and there. It's simply lovely.

TIP #3: Explore off-the-beaten path Tuscan villages for a real treat! Experience real Tuscan life at its fullest (if you see any...ha!).

We make it back to the festival site to find the doors in the same locked position as we left it. As I peer in once more, there is no sign of life. However, there is a stone planter with red geraniums smack dab in the middle of the courtyard which is now illuminated from the dreary afternoon gray sky.

The cold is getting the best of us and we're hungry, so we bid adieu to Monte San Savino. Such a lovely gem of a town....in the Tuscan hillside.

Back at the car, the temperature reads 7 degrees Celsius. Again, Celsius not really registering on my Farenheit brain...all I know is that it is doggone cold! My question to DH...does it snow in Tuscany?

BTW...how hard is it to find your way in Rome. I reserved a rental car and am staying at the Shereton just outside of town. Does a GPS work there. Can you recommend any organized day tours for me to get the lay of the land. Thanks.

adventureseeker, this is excellent! I had been awaiting your return. Can't wait for the rest!

howie67, are you referring to driving in Rome? Please please please don't do this! Rome is not made for driving tourists. The historic center is relatively compact and easy to get around by walking, taking the bus or the metro. A car is not necessary.

We didn't do Rome on this trip, BUT returned a car in Florence and it was a nightmare. We spent nearly an hour (armed with an excellent detailed map and good sense of direction) circling the small city of Florence trying to find the car rental return. I imagine Rome, being a larger city, would be the same problem.

Tip: Get very detailed street by street directions from the car rental agency.

tcreath,

Grazie for the warm welcome back!

We're leaving for a 9 day trip to Zihuatanejo/Ixtapa tomorrow as I'm now "adventureseeking" south of the border! ....be back soon to finish!

A thought on Italian wine. I like Italian wine because it's not trendy or gimmicky. California, Virginia and Washington wines seem to try too hard to get noticed. They resort to unusual tastes/flavors/techniques.

Italian wines are unpretentious; simple good quality wine. I agree that if you pay a lot for a bottle of Italian wine, you aren't likely to get swept off your feet. Better to buy a cheaper local wine and be pleasantly surprised at the value.

When we're in Italy we always order the house wine. Sometimes it's not that great but usually it's surprising good at an incredible price. Trying the local wines or beers is one way to capture local flavor.

I like your thinking! Looking back, I believe that I had high expectations and wanting to be "swept off my feet" by Italian wines. We did try alot of the house wine which, like you said, was a very decent wine for a great price.

Now, back at in the US, we have begun to try a broader range of Italian wines (more from boutique and family wineries) and are enjoying them more. With each sip I think about the labor of love that is put into each bottle.

Our greatest discoveries have been from small wineries in Abruzza and the Veneto regions.

ADVENTURES IN AN ITALIAN SUPERMARKET
We're on a mission....to find a (open) supermarket and load up on supplies. It's day #3 in Tuscany for us and besides the few things we picked up at the alimentari on our way in, our cupboards are bare.

From what we've seen, there is really only one large chain supermarket called COOP. Another reminder that back home, we have way too many choices. We plan on going to the COOP in Bucine, the nearby town to Sogna. However, on our way back we see a much larger COOP in another town. So, we pull on in.

Our trip to the supermarket turned out to be an experience or should I say, an adventure (just what I'm seeking, right?). ...One that all tourists should experience (ha!).

The adventure begins with DH heading towards the rack of shopping carts in the parking lot. He discovers...they're all locked. Hmmmmm. So instead of figuring it out, we just mosey into the store. With our luck, the store is probably closing in 5 minutes. We grab a few of the (unlocked) plastic shopping baskets and make our way in.

SPINACH, ARUGULA, ONIONS, OH MY!
Our plan was to hit the Farmer's Market in the nearby town of Ambra tomorrow, but the produce here in the supermarket was so bountiful and fresh (unlike our produce back home). It was all amazing. To this day, we still remember the spinach....so fresh, green, large and coarsely thick. NOTHING like it back home. We made a mental note to find some "Tuscan" spinach seeds to grow our own back home. Then there is the arugula....all fresh (like it was newly picked and the farmer just came in to fill the bin), glistening with dews of moisture. We load up on all kinds of produce (spinach, onions, garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes, arugula, lemons, grapefruit, bananas, pears, you name it!).

We're kids in a candy store imagining the amazing frittata we'll make. Here we are in the local grocery store all excited like we were in Venice the first day we discovered the Rialto Market. There are varieties of vegs and fruits that we've never seen before. We now have 2 shopping baskets filled to the brim with plastic bags of produce.

We notice that we're the only non-locals in the store....COOL (so we think)! There are nearby shoppers that (we think) are looking at us wondering, "Crazy Americanos"....so glib and perma-grin over spinach and arugula!

I'm famished and as the old adage says, "never shop on an empty stomach". Everything looked good. Good thing we didn't master unlocking the cart, as it probably would be overflowing by now.

DAIRY OR BUST!
Next: Dairy. Piece of cake, right? There we are standing in front of the dairy case staring at the milk containers trying to deciper what is what. We're looking for 1% (cow's milk). Easy, right? We spend about 10 minutes here and narrowed down what we think is the lowfat version of cow's milk.

The cheese section was abound with amazing fresh choices. It was like an artisan cheese shop back home....without the price tags to match. DH selects some aged and non-aged pecorino along with some parmesan. So fresh that, once again, we expect the sheep farmer to make an appearance and restock the cheese.

The yogurts were a slam dunk as the picture on the carton showed the fruit. We piled a handful in the basket.

THE ART OF SIMPLE LIVING
I was surprised at how basic, simple and straightforward the choices were. The salad dressing aisle back home had an entire aisle devoted to dozens of Ranch (regular, lowfat, fatfree, parmesan peppercorn, yada yada.), Italian, Caesar, etc. So many choices, not to mention brands. Thinking about it was giving me a headache. Here I was in Italy, the food capital of the world, looking at a very small section of dressings. Then it dawned on me...the dressing of choice here is Olive Oil and Vinegar. Plain and simple. Why douse all this fresh fabulous produce with anything but? And, when I venture over to the vinegar and oil aisle, not too many choices. Then again, most Italians go directly to the source and get vats of fab freshly pressed olive oil from the local olive grower. Lucky Italianos!

It made me sad to think how our society back home becomes so engrossed in more choices, more options...more, more, more. I make a vow to live simply and teach my son to do the same.

I locate DH in a trance looking at the deli section. This one has platters and containers filled with fresh offerings: marinated "this and thats" (artichokes, peppers, olives galore, etc.), spreads, cut meats, etc. ….All the provisions needed to have a killer picnic. We select a handful of "must-haves" to make appetizer platters back at the cottage to accompany our vino.

Naturally, we observe how small the frozen food section is (half an aisle). We also make note of how reasonable the prices are (even for Euros!) and how excellent the quality is.

Next we load up on chicken, pastas, a couple bottles of local red vino, blood orange juice, vinegar, waters, etc.

GOT LABELS?
We've now got 4 baskets full, heavy and overflowing. We wobble over to the checkout and it is pretty crowded. When we get to the cashier, she begins ringing us up. When she gets to the last basket, it's the produce and she is speaking Italian to us while waving her hands and pointing. Hmmmm? We look around to see if anyone here speaks any English...nada. I feel as if I'm on Candid Camera or in an episode of "I Love Lucy". There is now a line of 3 people formed behind us and the pressure is on. She then picks up a bag of fruit and motions to it. I say whatever comes to mind, “no comprende”, uh, “no capisco”, whatever. Hmmmm? Finally, a lady behind us shows us her bag of produce that has a label on it and points in the direction of the produce section. Okay, we get it….we need a label. So, DH will pay for what has been rung up and I'll take the 2 overflowing baskets of bagged produce back to the produce section and figure out what the heck I'm supposed to do to conjure up a label. I'm thinking that I got the wrong end of the deal!

Before I leave, I notice that no one is bagging our goods. I look around and see the shoppers bagging their own items in reusable bags. Once again I think how spoiled we are back home. Well, we don't have any reusable bags. hmmmm? The cashier points to a shelf nearby with plastic bags that we pay .05E for. (think IKEA) No prob, we grab a handful of plastic bags and DH begins to bag our stuff. Phew!

I'm back at the produce aisle thinking that this will be an adventure to figure out, but lo and behold is the scale with PICTURES of the produce on it. Very universally and user friendly! It was actually quite fun. I would put on my bag of bananas and push the "banana" picture and voila!... out would come the label. So easy!

I wobble back to the checkout with our "legally" labeled bags of produce. I now know the drill as I grab a couple plastic bags, pay and load up the produce. DH is waiting for me with armfuls of bags. Off we go into the sunset....an Italian grocery adventure under our belts!

ROUND 2 AT A ITALIAN GOURMET SHOP
We're back in the car and headed home. My sweet tooth is still in full force, so I'm on the lookout for a quintessential Italian Pasticceria. We took the normal route back home so we were bound to pass a few towns (hence Pasticcerias).

I finally see a charming little shop which was more like a gourmet deli, so we pull in. There are no locked carts nor no scales to weigh produce....we're good. This is a cute shop with shelves of gourmet items all presented nicely and beautifully. Naturally, the prices match the display. I mosey to the back of the shop to the deli and spy the most amazing platters and bowls of cooked beans, cippoline caramelized onions, pastas galore, marinated this and that, etc. Oh yes, we had to have some of each. I'm thinking of that decadent chicken dish that DH had at Orient Express. Yes, that's what we'll have for dinner...saucy chicken scallopini, white beans, rocket salad and w/ a nice Italian red. Aaahhhhh! Forget the sweet tooth, I'm in savory heaven!

There are about 5 people waiting with numbers to load up on all the goodies. So, we locate the machine, grab a number and patiently wait our turn. We anticipate what we want and the size of the containers. So, since everyone is speaking Italiano, we can just point. Point to the beans and then point to the size of the container we want it in. Easy as pie.

SUGAR OR BUST!
I wander over and see a the pasticceria case that is loaded with Italian cookies, cakes, you name it. Success at last! It's our turn and we're pointing and waving our hands (very Italian-esque). Next, we move over to the sugary section and do the same...but, this time it's cinque 5 of this, due 2 of that, etc. I'm a happy camper, we have a dozen or so of fun Italian cookies (moons dipped in chocolate, shortbread hearts, etc.) all wrapped up beautifully in a pink box tied with a ribborn. Bellisimo! (I don't think this box will make it home wrapped up...if you know what I mean!).

Homeward bound. We're warm, we've got a carload of fab Italian provisions...we're happy! We follow the signs to yet another way home-no problem. Day #3 in Tuscany and we're getting our bearings. Life is good.

On the way up, up, up to Sogna on the white gravel road we're on the lookout for Cinghale (we don't see any) or small branches. We stop a few times to pick up some kindling pieces. Tonight we'll have a hearty meal with the fire a blazin'.

The cottage is a welcomed sight as we lug our groceries in. I begin to fill up our bare cupboards and DH has the task to make the best fire ever. He's struggling as the kindling burns out too quick and the large logs don't catch as quickly as they should. It's frustrating. Luckily, this cottage is equipped with a very efficient heating system, but that's not the point. A woodburning fire in a stone Tuscan cottage is an absolute must.

THE LITTLE FIRE THAT COULDN'T
The fire continued to be uncooperative all night long. It would first rage and then die, DH was up and down checking the damper and re-lighting. DH moved the loveseat in front of the fireplace to enjoy the little bit of a fire that we could after our meal. I kept my fingers crossed. (note to self: bring ax next time)

LET'S EAT!
Quick, we need to get dinner ready so we can enjoy as much of the fire as we can. DH opens the wine and we toast, we sip while quickly whipping up dinner. The menu: Chicken Scallopini w/ caramelized lemons, garlic and cippoline onions. White beans drizzled in olive oil, Sauteed spinach w/ thinly sliced garlic. I grabbed some fresh rosemary from the garden and plated it all...yum! We both enjoy and love cooking, but I truly don’t remember a more pleasurable experience than preparing this simplistic meal. With every chop or slice, with every touch of the fresh spinach, garlic, lemon, it’s a sensory experience. The cottage fills with the perfume-y smell of garlic. A toast to our first real meal in the Tuscan cottage!

(oh, and the ribbon wrapped pink box of luscious sweets didn't make it all the way home. We had 7 or so melt-in-your-mouth pieces on the drive and polished off the rest after dinner!)

i just loved your description of shopping in the supermarket - you sound just like me. my trouble is that I want to buy everything, and my DH spends his whole time saying what we don't need and trying to drag me out of the store!

the fire not drawing my anot have been your fault - we've got a "real" fire and for that last few days, it's been really hard to get it going - I think it may be something to do with the wind direction.

adventureseeker,
My husband and I are planning a rather unexpected trip to Italy, leaving in less than a month.

I remembered reading your report with such pleasure and went looking for it tonight, especially for the Cinque Terre portion. I hadn't realized you didn't finish Tuscany. I'd love to see how your trip finished.

ridiculously so. too few days for everywhere. you have 1 1/2 days in Rome, 1/2 day and a night in Florence, 1/2 days in Venice. you will be exhausted. you wil not be able to tell whether you are in the Borghese or the accademia.

personally, I would just go to Rome for a week, but if you must, stay in Rome for 3 nights, then get the train to Florence, and stay there 3 nights. Venice can wait.

[acutally, of them all, it's the one that possibly can't wait due to the ravages of the rising water, but to get the train there from Rome, and then back to Milan wil take you too long, which is why I suggest you should plump for Florence as your third place].

Adventureseeker, your trip report is excellent. I wish I'd read it before I started mine on Venice (I'm in the middle of it now). Maybe I wouldn't do mine at all; yours is so good.

I appreciate all the practical information, but mainly your overflowing joie de vivre and sense of humor. When you put your produce into bags and went to the register, I held my breath, knowing what surprise was in store. But like you, I enjoyed using the label machine. It's brilliant.

I can see from all the enthusiastic readers' comments how your report has given pleasure to many people, including me. Thanks.

OMG!
So you really are not finishing?
Are you too sad?
Your report has occupied every free minute of mine for days!
It was exactly what I was looking for.
I am leaving for my 3rd trip to Italy in October.
It is time for some "re-grounding."
Italy brings me back to earth and helps me appreciate all that truly is important in life.
Your trip is exactly where we are going this fall, except our long stay in Tuscany is in the walled city of Lucca.
Your stories have brought back many pleasurable memories.
Grazie for sharing!

This trip was 2+ years in the planning (and obviously in the finishing of the trip report!). Times have surely changed...We booked a trip to Italy with only 2 weeks to plan. The awesome airfares to Italy were too good to pass up. This time we're taking our very curious, energetic, so-happy-to-finally-be-going-to-Italy 8 year old son. We leave this Sunday, October 25, 2009!

Our upcoming 12 day itinerary:
fly into Florence (2 nights), wander, see David (keeping my promise I made with myself that whenever in Flo...I have a date w/ David), visit the Duomo, sunset at Fiesole (hopefully the sky will be clear!), eat, drink, and be merry.

train to Lucca (2 nights)...wander, explore, walk/bike the walls, eat, drink, and be merry. Take train to Pisa so son can climb it and take the famous photos in front.

train to Vernazza (5 nights). Going back to get my heart that I left there 2 years ago. explore the villages, hike, see if Antonio remembers me...and if so, buy him a drink! explore the towns north of Monterosso, eat, drink, and be merry (at Da Piva's!)!

next day...train to Milan. overnight. (maybe visit Duomo, La Scala, wander). Still working on the logistics/details of Milan.

So, I will finally get to answer the burning question that friends/family ask me...."will it be the same as the first time?" I hope so, and more. Plus...this time we're seeing our old favorites with new eyes and exploring more in depth. We know what we loved and will do more of the same...savoring it all at a slower pace. We won't be ticking off another "must-see" on the list. We can spend more time in cafes and in piazzas we loved (and discover more). We've been there before and can take that wealth of knowledge and put it to good use while keeping our senses wide open! Besides, this time we have an 8 year old's eyes to look through.

Our son has a mission.....how many flavors of Gelato can he try? He will write down each and every one in a journal. He knows how to say, "Vorrei un gelato" (I want gelato). I envision him making amici (friends) and playing calcio (soccer) with them while we sip vino at a piazza cafe! Everyone is happy!

(and yes, I will finish the Tuscany section of this report before I start the new one!)

COULD IT BE?…THE TUSCAN SUN?
I woke up at 7am and did my normal morning routine-opened the window shutters to say “buon giorno” to Sogna and get a quick weather forecast. This time I saw a very welcome sight…is it? could it be?....the Tuscan Sun? Yes, I daresay it is. The sun’s rays were peeking out of the clouds and the light was dancing on the trees. This made me smile. Simple pleasures. We could FINALLY have breakfast al fresco…triumph! I wasn’t taking any chances. Yes, the sun was out, but I knew how cold it could be (and boy, did I know), so I bundled up to go outdoors and survey the (sadly) unused table, chairs and beautiful pergola.

It was a gorgeous morning….still chilly, but an alfresco meal was doable. The air was crisp and it even smelled like Autumn. Vines hanging over the pergola were covered in morning dew. The sad, lonely table was scattered with leaves in hues of reds and gold. And lastly, the view of mountains covered with trees kissed by the sun was amazing. I was quietly hoping that this would be first of many outdoor meals we would be enjoying in Sogna (but, sadly it would be our one and only). This alfresco meal would be worth the wait…..

Back inside, I ran upstairs to deliver the good news to DH…..”We will eat outside”. He’s still half asleep and gives me a “yeah, right” look. Kinda like he’s thinking….”Don’t you remember that conversation about how to convert Celsius to Farenheit? It’s flippin’ cold!” The good guy that he is, he gets up to share in my vision of a quintessential alfresco experience overlooking the Tuscan countryside (which it was). Aaaaahhhhh!

ALFRESCO OR BUST!
I decide on a “healthy” meal (we needed it!). I put together a fruit plate of blood oranges (which DH points out is really grapefruit. Okay, so he’s right.....this time anyway.), pears, strawberries, grapes and bananas. It looked too pretty to eat. Coupled with yogurts, this would be our meal. It was a light breakfast to prepare for yet, another feast at some fabulous medieval village for lunch. Next, I made a pot of tea and poured two glasses of blood orange juice (which I can’t find anywhere in the USA!). Once again, I used the cottage’s finest offerings for the finishing touches: a picnic basket, blue and white checkered table cloth and napkins. I carried it all outside and set it up. I stood back and was very pleased with what I saw. It looked like a photo spread for Town and Country or Martha Stewart magazine. This would be the start of a perfect day…..

We’re taking in the splendor of this morning when DH asks, “What’s that on those mountains?” I look over at a slightly higher mountain range on the other side of the view that is unfolded in front of us. Could it be? Yes, it was….SNOW! I kid you not. It snows in Tuscany. This was a fact I wasn’t sure of (until now). Now it was staring right at me. (see our Tuscany photos to see for yourself!). This just also confirms how high up our sleepy village is. The snow capped peaks seemed like they were directly in front of us. Unbelievable.

AND THE VOTE GOES TO…..MONTALCINO
As we ate this fine simple meal under a sun dappled (today, anyway) pergola and nearby snow capped mountain peaks, we chatted about our plan for the day. The verdict: explore Pienza and Montalcino…the home of Brunello! The sun was out and it would be a great day to be outdoors (maybe even the only day). I was really looking forward to exploring the Val D’Orcia region. I knew that if we went during the first part of our stay in Tuscany and we loved it (which we did), we could go back another day (which we did…two more times!).

VAL D’ORCIA….I SECOND THAT!
The Val D’Orcia region was one that many, many Fodorites; especially the ones that I consider to be my travel gurus (you know who you are….Stu, Bob the Nav, etc. to name a few) raved about. This region is where the 3 top stars resided: Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano. And I have to say, after being there, “I totally get it.” Next trip to the heart of Tuscany, we are without a doubt staying smack dab in the middle of this valley. You have probably recognized my name all over this board recommending this region. I’m the one consistently chiming in, “I second that” and “another vote for”.

Last night we watched “Under the Tuscan Sun” (another movie we’ve watched before) as our fire died its usual slow death. It occurred to me now, that maybe…just maybe the movie last night was the reason the sun made an appearance today? Hmmm…now I’m thinking which Italian flicks have titles with the word “hot” in it, at this point, I’ll even just take “warm”.

With a plan in mind, we gather the remnants of our quintessential alfresco experience overlooking the Tuscan countryside and go inside to get ready for our day.

OVER THE HILLS AND THROUGH THE TUSCAN WOODS
We decide to take a longer (and more scenic) route via the gorgeous Crete Senesi past Asciano and Rapolano Terme. It was everything I thought it would be…no strip or outlet malls, just rolling hills, stone villas and hilltowns galore. In our planning for Montalcino, we had penciled in Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. So that would be our first stop. The drive up there was spectacular. Each rolling hill promised fields in patches of color-gold, wheat and greens. At some points it looked like just that-Nature’s patchwork blanket. It was feeling and looking exactly like Autumn. I remember thinking once again how lovely Tuscany would look in Spring-all fresh and green. Among the “blanket” were those familiar scenes of cypress trees lining dirt roads leading up to age old stone buildings perched upon small hills. DH was very patient with me as I had him stop here and there so I could go outside to capture a photograph. The landscape all looked like photographs from those Tuscany Calendars….everywhere we looked was a picture perfect photo representing a new month. Bellisimo!

On of my favorite scenes of all are the herds of sheep. I see them far away like little specks and as we drive over yet another small hill, they get closer and closer until you can make them out. I’m happy to report that we are officially in pecorino country!

We happily drive on while I continue to fill my camera’s memory card with photos of this amazing place called Tuscany. We notice that the sun is making its departure under a patch of clouds. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted. It was still not as cold as previous days, so we were happy. Ah, the simple pleasures.

DH and I play that game where you pick out your fave house/villa/estate. It started with maybe our top 5 and then it just got out of hand. I would say that I probably had somewhere in the ballpark of 75 or so. That game got old real fast. I should also mention that it seems we are the only ones on this stretch of highway. It was surreal.

At one point, in the distance we see a patch of trees which looks like a mirage. I take a 360 degree look and there are no other trees like these as far as the eye can see. Very interesting indeed. It almost looks like someone planted them there for a shock factor. To this day I still don’t know the story about them.

ABBAZIA DI MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE
As we get closer to the Abbazia, we notice how the clouds and sun are casting shadows on the land which is quite beautiful. The lighting has changed the landscape and now it looks like lush carpet in contrasting tones are rolled over the hills. (logistics note: it would take about an hour to get here from the top of Sogna. An hour that is, if we didn’t stop every 15 minutes to snap a “must have” photo).

We easily arrive at the Abbazia. It is very peaceful. I’m happy to report that the parking lot is not too full so we know it won’t be too crowded. Across from the parking lot stands a gorgeous old brick building resembling a castle with a pathway through it. Over the arch of the walkway is a stunning colorful statue of Madonna and child.

As we make our way through the building, it leads to an old stone path meandering between tall pine trees (we think) that leads to the Abbazia at the bottom. We notice the slight wind whistling in the tall pine trees adding to the serenity of this place. As we walk down, there are smaller stone structures which resemble mini churches nestled among the trees. They are lovely and look as if they belong. I want to say that it is a pleasant 15 minute walk without stopping.

Upon arriving at the end of the path is the Abbazia and clusters of like buildings attached to it forming its own city. It, too, is spectacular. There is a garden nearby and I take a peek. Naturally, there is a statue of my friend, Santa Caterina of Siena. She is following me, I swear.

We step into the church which is massive in size and beauty. There is so much to see here. Mini alters and alcoves. It even smells and feel like a spiritual place. From the main church there are clusters of smaller ones entwined. As usual, everything looks like art. I am moved by the detailed pieces that call this church home. I make note of the mix of lighting. Candles, lighting on various pieces and mainly the natural light streaming in from the dome above the main alter. The varying lighting all seem to work and blend together to illuminate this church as it was meant to be. Stunning!

We make our way out to the courtyard which part of it is locked behind heavy ornate iron gates. Around the cloisters are the beautiful frescoes by Luca Signorelli and Sodoma. We slowly walk around them as they tell a story. We locate the “self portrait” of the artist among the colorful scenes. This has been a treasure and definitely worth the stop.

SILENZIO E RISPETTO
“Silence and Respect”. Such irony as we walk into an open hall not sure if this is public space or not. There ever so quietly in a glass front office sat a Monk in his garb sitting at his computer composing music. I nudged DH so he could have a chuckle too. But then again, what did I expect? Using old world methods of parchment paper and quills? Apparently they had caught up to the technology of the 21st century, right? I could envision this scene as the perfect Apple commercial which would make sense if he were on a Mac. But, alas he was a PC dude. I was so tempted to snap a photo, but then he looked up at me. I felt like I was disturbing his silence and respect so we skulked away.

This is a working monastery. They have a very large gift shop on sight filled with tuscan goodies and products made at the abbey. It was fun to walk around and observe as well as partake of conversation with the monks working there. They were very jubilant and friendly. An amusing moment was when saw a large monk squeeze into a mini car (that looks like it only seats 1, but maybe 2) that was more square than those cute Fiat 500’s. All in all a great visit.

We trek back up the stone pathway which has a slight grade. We walk past the old buildings and the trees are still whistling in the wind. This was place was definitely a sanctuary. Very peaceful and serene. One of the best parts came after our visit when we drove away and were back on the road. As we came down the other side of the hill, I looked back at this amazing brick spectacle amidst the dark green tall trees. It was an "aha moment". Heavenly…literally.

A/S
I have thoroughly enjoyed your trip report. A group of 8 of us (4 couples) are going to Italy and Switzerland in late July early August 2010. We will all be together some of the time but will journey off on our own at times.

Our itinerary looks like this: Arive Rome early on July 22nd (3 nights), Sienna (3 nights), Cinque Terre (2 nights however after reading your report I may stay a bit longer), and then Wengen Switzerland (7 nights). Each couple has the "charge" to find lodging and activites in each of their assigned overnight stays. My wife and are are responsible for CT!
What would be your definite "to do" activites? By the way the entire group enjoys hiking. I guess I am looking for your thoughts also on where to stay, eat, and PLAY! Any advice you can offer would be gladly appreciated. Also any other Fodorites please give me your thoughts as well. Thanks.

BarbaraS
Thanks for the response! I will check out your hotel. Weeks ago when I began my research my favorite place to stay was in Vernazza was La Mala (the same place A/S stayed) It looks fabulous on their website, but it is a bit pricey. We are only going to be there for two days so we probably would not be able to fully enjoy the beautiful rooms at La Mala. My feelings are mixed...some people advise to stay north of CT (like Legano or Santa Margherita) but my concern is wasting time traveling to and from CT each of the two days....if that makes sense.
Yes from the research I have done it sounds like the peak season in CT will be when we are there so that is why I need to book early. Our group does not HAVE to stay together...most places we are looking at are places with double rooms...so hotels are fine. We would not be against renting a house but probably would be difficult to find anyone that would rent a house during peak season for only two nights. Thanks again.
kwilly

We're staying at the apartment that the La Mala owners own and it looks amazing. Here's the link: http://www.armanda.it/index2.html There is also another location (just a room, no kitchen) that is available for rent. So...that takes care of 2 couples and the other 2 can stay at La Mala or elsewhere.

This trip we are definitely doing the hikes and moreover...I just want to REALLY spend time in the villages soaking them in. Our 3 nights there last time went way too fast. We hiked through all villages, but never really stopped to get to know them. This time will be very different at a much slower pace.

I'll report what we did this trip and maybe there will be more ideas.

NOTE: book ASAP even if you haven't yet decided since the rooms go fast.

Here's a couple more links to larger apts, houses, villas in the CT area:

http://www.arbaspaa.com/ (I had inquired on a few properties with this agency and was very impressed with their quick response)

Another great looking place in Manarola that seems big enough to handle your group: http://www.arpaiu.com/english.html (Arpaiu was our 2nd choice after La Mala on the last trip)

Thanks for replying. And to even think that you are leaving tomorrow for another adventure. I can't wait to hear more. You are so gracious to share your thoughts...I enjoy reading them sooo much. Not sure if you wqill read this before you go or even during your trip but wondered if you knew anything about "Tonino Basso's rooms in Vernazza. They look nice on his site. And, he has been the only owner/host to email back regarding my questions. I will check out the new places you mentioned in this last post.

I haven't heard anything about Tonino Basso, but checked out the website and they are gorgeous. Most rooms I find in CT are dingy, frou-frou and not very stylish. This is worth checking into. What are the prices? Have you checked at tripadvisor.com to see if there are any reviews?

It is frustrating when I research and surf the internet so much and miss something like this. Cinque Terre really needs to have a one-stop portal website that has the creme de la creme lodgings listed. It's like finding a needle in a haystack. I found our apartment by first emailing La Mala for availability. They don't even list the apartment and affitacamere on their inn website. Puzzling.

Will do further research but I do agree it is a challenge to find/review and then select a place that you feel will be pleasant to stay. That's why so many of us on here "rely" on trip reports from travelers like yourself. Have a great time in Italy! I look forward to hearing about your upcoming trip upon your return.

My journal is chock full will great info/thoughts/feelings and above all, "adventures" to share. This time I scribbled and chickenscratched in one place.....no more scouring through scraps or pieces of paper to make heads or tails of it all.

My first priority will be to finish this report that is sorely overdue.

(kwilly....our Armanda apt in Vernazza was a slice of heaven. We stayed 6 nights. Still too few, but loved every second of it. HIGHLY recommend it.)

(note: I'm not sure if anyone out there is still interested in reading a report that is this old. I'll continue to post as this report is also my own personal journal)

TUSCANY-Day 3

Part 9 (October 23, 2007)

Day 14 (cont’d)

FATTORIA DEI BARBI OR BUST!
On the road again towards Montalcino…home of the coveted Brunello. The plan was to go to the Sant’Antimo Abbey in time for the Gregorian Chants by the monks. There was a chanting schedule and we didn’t want to miss it.

We were enjoying the drive over rolling hills in the Tuscan countryside and feeling the hunger pangs coming on. So, we had to rearrange our plan. I took out the chanting schedule and figured that we could hit the Taverna at dei Barbi for lunch on the way and then head over to the Abbey for the chanting. After, we could zip back to dei Barbi for the wine tasting/tour. Maybe even squeeze in a visit at the Museo della Commuita di Montalcina e del Brunello which is the local museum that tributes the birth of Brunello and all things "Montalcino". That would work, so that’s exactly what we did.

I had done research and even considered staying at Fattoria dei Barbi (a centuries old family winery) for a more agriturismo experience, but alas, the romantic stone cottage in the middle of nowhere won out. I was looking forward to be going to a region in Tuscany that was all about wine in hopes of (finally) beginning my love affair with Italian varietals.

Fattoria dei Barbihttp://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it/
was located outside and past the historical town center of Montalcino. It was a gorgeous drive seeing the town of Montalcino perched up on the hill. We easily find the winery and park in the dirt parking lot. It looked exactly like I hoped….a no frills family owned wine operation. With a couple hours or so until the chanting, we had time to poke around.

First on the agenda was to get some good homemade local food in our bellies. Off to the Taverna we go. I had seen photos of it from the website and it looked lovely with its rustic stone walls and a warm fireplace. Just the ambiance we were looking for. As we entered, we were warmly greeted by the waiter. He was impeccably dressed in a coat jacket and guided us to our table. There were a handful of tables filled and the place had a more formal feeling that I was expecting. Maybe it was the tone of the place, the white linen tablecloths, the impeccable manners of the waiter or the table nearby that displayed 7 bottles of uncorked bottles of wine lined up perfectly like soldiers.

As we scanned the impressive menu, I needed to readjust my thinking and downshift from a simplistic rustic country meal to a gastronomic Brunello experience. No problem. I knew we were in for a treat. I took another look around and noticed that the others seemed to be tourists. Tourists that were in search of an excellent meal paired with the crowned jewel Brunello di Montalcino.

DH and I talked about how we were looking forward to sampling a variety of Brunellos and other offerings by the glass.

FAT CATS
Just then, I notice a group of 3 couples walking toward the Taverna. The ladies were elegantly dressed to the nines with their expensive designer handbags and perfectly coiffed hair. The guys are smoking cigars. They make a big entrance. The place is no longer quiet. I recognize them…they are “fat cat” Americans (no insult intended as I myself am proud to call myself a (non “fat cat”) American, proud…until this moment). I imagine they’ve come to Tuscany in search of the “best of the best”. I imagine they are probably staying in a very luxe Tuscan Villa complete with private chef at their beck and call. They even probably flew over in a private jet so they can take back cases and cases of Brunello. Who am I to judge? I suppose I’m being a bit harsh and critical. Sorry, I don't mean to be insulting, I'm just calling it as I see it. Maybe I’m green with envy? No, I’m definitely not.

I wonder if they’ll ever appreciate or taste a local red wine that is a labor of love and produced in small quantities. No, it will never be as grand as the Brunello, but you can taste the heart and soul of it.

Back to our lunch….

Our waiter comes over and we discuss some choices with him along with wines to pair. The menu is full of wonderful choices. Many of which were wild boar cinghale and other local game. We decide upon 4 different glasses of wine which we’ll share (3 of which are Brunellos averaging 8E-11E per glass. The 4th is a blend). The first 2 wines are served with our first courses. It’s the lower priced Brunello and the blend. The waiter artfully places our sparkling crystal clear big wine glasses in front of us and turns to the table of “wine bottle soldiers” and plucks one from the group. He pours the velvety liquid that is releasing its aroma as it pours into the glass. He puts the bottle back ever so perfectly and turns the bottle so the label lines up just like the others that are “standing” there. Next he takes the 2nd bottle and does the same. This one is richer than the other. We are mesmerized by the skill of the waiter. He again places the bottle back in its place in line. They are all in perfect harmony. We can’t wait to take our first sip, but, for some reason, we have patience.

Enough of patience as our first course arrives. It looks amazing. Steam is coming up from both plates. (I am very particular about the temperature of my food….I like my soups served piping hot. So….needless to say, I’m a happy camper). Our primi courses: Ribollita and local white beans cooked to perfection and swimming in local “Tuscan gold” (aka olive oil) to start. Buon appetito! All very delizioso! A “clink clink” and a “Saluti” later, we’re savoring the wine. We switch glasses, sip and critique. They are both very good. Not knock-your-socks-off, but good (once again my VERY high expectations of Italian wine is clouding my judgment). Next out comes our Pasta courses. One is with a porcini mushroom sauce and the other a ricotta and local herb ravioli in another fabulous sauce (the wine must’ve kicked in as I don’t have any more detailed info about what we ate!). Both are exceptional. DH and I are oohing and aahing among ourselves while the waiter whisks away our empty glasses and new crystal clear glasses appear with 2 more wine “soldiers” plucked off the table. These 2 wines are (once again) both very good, but…..?

I almost forget the “fat cats” across the restaurant. They are keeping their waiter busy with a few bottles of wine. Pop goes the weasel and out comes the cork and another dead soldier. After a few sips, the 3 men at the table leave to go outside to smoke their cigars.

We are stuffed and happy. I wouldn’t normally pass on dolci, but this time I have no room for it.

A fully satisfying elegant meal washed down with some great vino. A true experience at 67E.

I'm still here and reading. I am looking forward to your comments on Sant' Antimo. We made it as far as Montalcino a couple of weeks ago but ran out of time for going to Sant' Antimo, one of my few regrets, but all the more reason to return.

ahhhhhhhhhhhhh I just got to the end of the road...so to speak and came to Nov. 10th '09 and feel that I have been to the very spots you described and have eaten and drank the same foods you so eloqently wrote about, thoughout your adventures throughout Italy. I read all through the day, in between working at my consultant job... I couldn't think straight while speaking with clients; I wanted to come back to you and Italy for more...more...more.
I will be traveling late March into early April with 17 family members to Umbria, Orvieto. We are at a lovely villa, Seventh Heaven and have gotten so much from this site and it will make my trip so much more rewarding because of all your recommendation. ADVENTURESEEKER...thank you for all your time and effort - my family thanks you, I sent them snippets of important info; some have never been to Italy before.
All the best, and OH MY Goodness - your photos are unbelievable.
Best,
S

Oh gosh, that has to be one of the best travel stories ever printed anywhere. An instant Fodor classic. Thank you for the entertainment,information and gorgeous photos. I am the planner in our house; but, when I started viewing your photos DH was right by my side..."will we go there?" You bet! The tough part is waiting till May.

(I apologize for the inconsistency with the whole numbering system that I have made a mess of. The last post s/b Part 10)

TUSCANY-Day 3

Part 11 (October 23, 2007)

Day 14 (cont’d)

WELCOME TO TOSCANA!
Back in the car we continue that lovely country backroad to Sant’Antimo Abbey which is on the same pathway as dei Barbi. As we get closer, the landscape seems to change. The colors become more vibrant. I don’t know if it’s the lighting, the time of day or what, it looks magnificent. I kid you not, the wheat color sets off the deep shades of greens. The contrast is simply striking. It’s not just the colors that catch my eye, but it’s the various textures. It’s the tall, sturdy deep forest green cypress trees against the willowy grayish leaves of a crop of young olive trees. It’s the yellowish green crops against the deeper and lighter ones. And the soil varies as well….reddish at one end and shades of brown on the other. I see touches of Autumn in the yellows and gold, but quite frankly there is also the brilliance of Spring. Maybe Toscana didn’t get the memo that it is Autumn?

Then there’s the lighting. Along the top of the ridge the sunlight ever so softly dapples another crop. The sun’s rays magically filter through the clouds and turning its spotlight on the landscape below it. Oh, and I can’t forget those rows of purple bushes sprinkled in along with those picture perfect stone villas. It truly is an artist’s palete. Aaaahhhh…. Honestly, I don’t need a photo to remember this spectacular sight. It is ingrained in my memory forever. I almost forget that I’m not alone. I am in awe. I turn to DH to get his thoughts. He simply says softly, “Spectacular’. …..Welcome to Toscana!

A MIRAGE? …NO, IT’S SANT’ANTIMO ABBEY
And when I think it can’t get any better…I see her; in the distance. She is perfectly still in a shallow lush valley that matches the beauty of the hills surrounding her. She needs no introduction. Hello Sant’Antimo Abbey!

The closer we get, the more speechless (for once) I become. I have nothing to say. There are truly no words that can describe what I am experiencing. I can’t take my eyes off her. The filtered sunlight illuminates her aged stone exterior and the contrast of nature’s colors dance around her. I would swear that the powers from above are changing the light on her as we approach. I know this all sounds way too dramatic. It gave me “chicken skin” aka goosebumps.

I have seen countless photos of her. Yes, she is this gorgeous Romanesque church. But,
I have a confession to make…I was never really impressed. If it weren’t for the chanting that everyone raves about, she probably wouldn’t have made “the cut”. I know now that would’ve been a grave mistake. I think back to how much research I have done for this trip and it’s unexpected surprises, like this, that truly shake my core. That is the beauty of travel, no matter how much you plan/research, there are many moments like these that will never prepare you.

The road that takes us down to her is sprinkled with a handful of artists capturing this moment. We are not the only ones in awe. Some are painting the hills above and some are painting “her” in all her splendor. If there is anything that would make you want to become an artist, this is it.

We park and walk towards her meanwhile feeling a spiritual peacefulness. We want to just be. I don’t recall having any sort of conversation with DH, we simply whisper comments. The chanting begins in 30 minutes, so we roam the grounds. The abbey situated alongside the church is (once again) a contrast of old stone against the church. Even the stone has varying shades of color and texture against the rosemary bushes, soil and the surrounding hills. I have to ask myself, “what the heck is wrong with me?” Why are my senses so acute and everything is fabulously stunning. Hmmmm…maybe there is something to be said about those Brunellos. I just now had an “aha moment”.

I just had to take another peek at my photos. Yup, just as I remembered and described. The photos don’t lie. I can’t wait for you to see them. I will post them soon. And I’d love feedback from those of you who have been there….is it always this lovely or did we just have the most perfect of days? I almost wished that we would have packed a picnic lunch or snack. We were stuffed, but it sounded like a romantic idea.

From the distance, the church almost had a lighter glow to it. Now that we’re close it amazes me at how darker the stone is. The light was playing tricks on us (or the powers that be). This place is hauntingly beautiful. Does it really exist? Does it look this way every moment, every day? I wonder what she looks like in Spring, Summer and Winter?

I nudge DH as we walk into the church. Okay, so we’re blown away again. The coldness of the stone and the massiveness of its height has awestruck us. There is (of course) that perfect lighting again streaming in from the windows above. We quietly look around and then take a seat on the hard wood pews to await the chanting. It was so quiet you could hear a pin drop.

There are about 30 or so “spectators” sitting in the pews. I wonder if it is ever fully filled. We all silently and patiently wait. All of a sudden there is faint hum and one by one the monks appear. There are 6 in all. With each monks’ presence, the hum becomes louder and it fills this cold church and miraculously ti seems warmer. It is surreal. They seem to not notice all of us watching in awe. A couple people in front of us beginning softly chanting along with them. The chanting last for about 15-20 minutes. I quietly turn on the video feature on my camera and respectfully record the beautiful sounds we are hearing. And then, as quietly as they came, they left. One by one. There is one monk who remained to do “housekeeping duties” ie. straighten, adjust the ropes, etc. He also answered questions that some had.

This has been a very humbling experience indeed. It almost (I say….almost) made me want to skip the wine tasting back at the dei Barbi tour and do something more “meaningful”, but we don’t.

I'm bookmarking this for a later date -- I can tell it will be a fun read.

I've been to Italy twice -- once with my DH and young daughter and the second time by myself. I loved it both times and can't wait to go back. I think for some people, this country seeps into your skin and you simply can't get enough.

Mebe, I haven't made it to Rome....yet. The thought of it is overwhelming (to me) since there is so much to do/see. A few days there seems like "cheating". And I am infamous for wanting to do it all. However, when I stumbled across Kristina's reports/sites...she has a way of drawing you in and wanting to go....now.

Ozlinz, September will be here before you know it. Where are you visiting this time around? Maybe I'll see you there...(I wish!)

<< Mebe, I haven't made it to Rome....yet. The thought of it is overwhelming (to me) >>

AS - that was me. By the time i was 50 I'd been to Italy quite a few times but never Rome. Somehow it seemed too big to tackle.

but our kids wanted to go, so 3 years ago we booked an apartment for a week and never looked back. Next year in February we are going for another week and apart from a trip to the Forum with a guide [we didn't have one the first time and it was just a pile of stones so far as we were concerned] i don't think that we are going to repeat anything.

find someway to go if you can and try to get a week there - you won't be able to see everything but you'll have enough time not to feel rushed and short-changed.

BRUNELLO OR BUST!
Yes, I’m still working on Day #14. We’re back in the car after our spiritually humbling experience and now are headed back to dei Barbi. Our plan is to do (more) tasting at their winery and then take the tour of their cellar. With time on our side, we check out the Museo della Communita di Montalcino e del Brunello (in other words…the Brunello and Montalcino museum).

The Museo is conveniently located just past Fattoria dei Barbi. When we arrive, they are just reopening after their “siesta”. Finally, we have perfect timing. Our usual modus operendi” is to arrive when they are closed. http://www.museodelbrunello.it/ (site is in Italian only). We had the whole museum to ourselves. It was a deal at 2E each. There were many exhibits devoted to the livelihood of Montalcino and the old days. It was an excellent representation and was like a step back into time with many displays of old photos, tools, and artifacts. The section devoted to the history of Brunello (and much about the wine making families…including the Colombini clan which founded the Fattoria dei Barbi) was both fascinating and quite extensive. We spent at least an hour here and it was worthwhile.

Back to Fattoria dei Barbi. It’s been a good 2 hours or more since we left. In the wine tasting room there were a dozen or so people tasting and milling around. Six of which were the “Fat Cats” from lunch. We tasted a handful of wines. Most of which were different than the ones we had at lunch and were very good. We engaged in conversation with the FC’s and (to their credit) they were very nice. They (of course) were very knowledgeable about the Brunellos and were very educational in discussing them. I wasn’t shy about my thoughts on Brunellos and they went on to explain about the complexities of the wine which makes it very unique. I am beginning to “get it”. DH just glazes over while I have my Brunello conversation. I think he’s Brunello’d out.

Its just the eight of us (6 FC’s and ourselves) on the very informal dei Barbi Winery Tour. The tour began in the barrel room that was lined with large wooden barrels stamped with the dei Barbi logo. You could smell the wine “fermenting”. Our guide spoke decent English and was very well versed in the history of the Colombini family and the Fattoria dei Barbi which began in the 1700’s. The history was prevalent as we explored the creaky, musty old cellars that were lined with dusty old bottles. It was a sight to see. We NEVER get to see this incredible type of stuff on wine tours back in Napa Valley, Sonoma, or Santa Barbara County. This is the Real McCoy! The most fascinating part was the cave with an old wrought iron gate that held the prized Brunellos that were years old. Our guide told us that every so often they get recorked to continue the aging process. DH and I both agree that this tour/winery was a day well spent.

Back at the tasting room, we buy a dei Barbi T-shirt for DH and I get the book, “Wine Gives You Pretty Legs”, which is penned by Francesca Colombini Cinelli, who is the matriarch of this amazing wine family empire. (To this day, I still haven’t cracked open that book. But, it looks pretty on my “Italy memoir” shelf in my home office. …I just took it out and put in on the top of my “must read” stack. I’ll let you know how it is).

We bid farewell to our guide and to the FC’s. They make a trip here (Tuscany) annually and do the same thing…all 3 couples rent a fabulous villa w/ personal chef, they hire the same driver to take them from winery to winery. One of them brought up how next time they want to charter a private plane to bring back cases of Brunello. ….Touche’

Next…..the charming town of Montalcino and the most amazing Tuscan sunset.

A FULL DAY INDEED!
Today has already been an action packed day and we still have the historical center of Montalcino yet to explore. We’ve got an alfresco breakfast, visit to Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, lunch at Taverna dei Barbi, chanting at the spectacular Sant’Antimo Abbey, visit to the Brunello Museo, tasting and cellar tour at Fattoria dei Barbi all under our belts. Phew…

We’ve been on the outskirts of the center of Montalcino for most of the day and now it is time to check it out. The village of Montalcino is one of those perfect hilltowns that is perched up with a magnificent panoramic view of the scenery below. And that scenery doesn’t disappoint. The clouds have begun to turn more gray and it is chilly out, but we forge our way.

First we come to the Fortezza which is quite impressive. Our son would love this place. We snap a few photos. On my list was the Enoteca la Fortezza that is housed there within the fort walls. At this point in the day, we’re tired and (sadly) wine’d out (is that possible?). We find the entrance to the enoteca which is easily located in one of the fortress towers and walk inside. It was warm, cozy, and looks like the kind of enoteca you want to be tasting wines in while in Tuscany. It was very atmospheric with old stone and brick. We’re almost feeling like we should “force” ourselves to partake, but know that it wouldn’t be enjoyable, so we just browse, take in the ambiance, and check out the vast selection.

UNDER THE TUSCAN SUNSET
After spending time in the warm enoteca, it makes coming outdoors seem that much colder. I don’t know how long I will last. We stroll around the town’s shops and boutiques. The sun is beginning to set and the sky is ablaze in color. I feel torn between exploring the shops or walking towards the edge of town to watch the sunset. The sunset wins out, so off we go. It was the wise choice.

We go back to our strolling and the town seems very quiet. It is lined with charming cafes and enotecas. I’m almost sad that we aren’t staying nearby so we can return to sit, have some wine and just be. DH and I both agree that we did not give this charming town its due. Isn’t it always the case that there just aren’t enough hours in the day?

Down one small alley that has an amazing view is Taverna Grappolo Blu. Yes, another on our list (and so many others). This taverna comes with a very long list of accomplished recommendations….from the “foodie” folks at SlowTravel.com, Chowhound, etc. The taverna is closed. I don’t recall if they are closed completely on this day or if they just open later. It doesn’t matter because as much as we’d love to dine here, the thought of the hour or so drive back does not sound appealing. So, Grappolo Blu stays on the list for the next trip. Honestly, I can’t wait to get home and have a nice home cooked meal in our cozy stone cottage. I only hope that our wood burning fire cooperates.

As we drive through the rolling hills while Tuscany turns to dusk, we recap our day. Of the long list of winery visit possibilities that were under consideration, we are so very pleased that we chose Fattoria de Barbi. With its long standing history and that it still remains “in the family” it was an alluring Tuscan experience without all the glitz, glamour and corporate brouhaha that many of the larger producers in the area are accustomed to.

It’s been a lovely day full of wonders and surprise. We don’t mention it, but the topic definitely comes up later. Later, after we have explored both Pienza and Montepulciano (which are coming up). The topic being, “we know EXACTLY the area we will be staying at while in Tuscany next time.” Our Fodor gurus were spot-on. This is the area where you should stay. And gosh darn it, they are SO right on the money.

Hi all, I'm on a roll trying to get this report finished so I can begin the one on our most recent trip. I'm chomping at the bit. There are so many great adventures to share. My favorite topic being "Living like a Vernazzan for 6 days!" Stay tuned....

TUSCANY-Day 4

Part 14 (October 24, 2007)

Day 15

HILLTOWN DU JOUR???
I have a hard time getting out of bed this morning. We had our best fire, thus far, last night and concocted a very satisfying “comfort” meal last night of white beans (swimming in that fab local olive oil), pasta w/ tomato sauce, “rocket” aka arugula salad w/ tomatoes, and some marinated artichokes. And yes, we had to have a bottle of wine. This one was a Rosso di Montalcino. A good wine at a good price. The movie of the night was “Life is Beautiful”. Another movie we’ve seen a dozen times already and one that always puts a smile on our face.

I drag myself out of bed to check out the forecast. Cloudy, gray, and with a drizzle. Oh well. Downstairs I go to get some breakfast going. I throw together a quick onion, spinach and tomato frittata. DH (finally) gets up and we eat. We’re moving in s-l-o-w motion today and by the time we’re out the door it’s 11:30. What else is new?

Our plan today is to go to Montepulciano and be at Villa La Foce for the 3 or 4pm garden tour which they ONLY do on Wednesdays. This tour has taken on more of a meaning to me since I’ve discovered the author Iris Oringo who is the original owner of La Foce. http://www.lafoce.com/

As we make our way, we see that today is Market Day in Bucine. We stop. It would be a shame not to catch at least one market day while in Tuscany. It isn’t like the Farmer’s Market back home where it is limited to vendors selling produce. Here, there are vendors selling produce, meats, cheeses, housewares, clothing, trinkets, you name it. There are a number of things we’d like to buy (that wonderful firm Tuscan spinach, rocket, fennel, etc.), but know that it wouldn’t be a good idea to let it sit in the car. On second thought, it probably would be like a refrigerator with this cold weather. We leave empty handed, but are glad we experienced it.

OH OH!
Back in the car, we go the backside of town and notice that we’re on a one way street. This one way street goes up to the top of town where there is a church parking lot. There is only one way down and it’s narrow. And its corners are square, not curved. Not a bad thing if you’re driving a Fiat 500 and are an experienced Italian driver. Yikes. I’m scared. We’re screwed. DH uses his best manual driving skills and slowly we descend the car down the narrow road. I swear we barely, and I mean BARELY get down this road without touching the side.

Then there it is….at the bottom of the road is a very sharp turn. In front of the door on the building at the bottom is a thick concrete post (for moments like these). Yes, a post that you hit instead of plowing into the building. Well, you already know how this story turns out. Once at the bottom, DH artfully puts the car slowly in reverse and backs up and then goes forward a few times in order to try to miss the post. But, we severely scrape our front left bumper against it. There truly is NO other way around it. DH is not a happy camper. We screwed up by not getting the collision insurance….bad mistake. What could happen when you’re driving in the countryside? I commend DH on his driving and told him it could be worse (which it really could’ve been).

We get out of this maze and when we’re in an open area, DH pulls over to check the damage. We try to forget it since there is nothing we can do about it. I don’t want it to ruin our day.

We take the faster route (vs. the scenic route winding through the Tuscan countryside) which is different than the other drives we’ve taken while here in Tuscany. This one is mainly on the Autostrada.

AREZZO OR BUST!
We see the sign for Arezzo. We know we’re in for a long haul down to Montepulciano just at the moment DH suggests it, I am feeling the same. “Why don’t we go to Arezzo today?” Yes, I’ll miss the garden tour at La Foce, but according to schedule it would be quite rushed. We’d have to find a place to eat first and then head to the tour and then to Montepulciano. Not a big deal if we had started out a few hours earlier. We knew that it would probably be a repeat of yesterday where we slighted the town of Montalcino and didn’t get to fully enjoy her.

Done deal, we take the off ramp and we’re just moments away. Cool! On the way there, I see a large store called simply “Home”. I recall a number of pieces that were in our Sogna cottage that I liked and they had a “Home” label on them. So, we stop. It actually isn’t the same brand, but we spend a half hour or so browsing some of the Italian home design items.

Back in the car and back on track. So, we get there quite quickly (and easily). It kinda reminds me of my thoughts when we went to Siena. A somewhat large industrial city that smack dab in the middle is the “historical center”. We easily find a place to park on the more modern part of town that had meters. No confusion here as far as figuring out signs to ascertain whether or not it’s restricted. We go to the nearest meter machine, get a ticket and place it on our dash. Then….we’re off.

We walk towards what we think in the historical center and easily find it. The town is nearly deserted. Yes, (as usual) it’s that time of day…the time of day that we always find ourselves arriving at a hilltown….during the afternoon “nap break” and of course, we are starving. There is a bonus about arriving during the break and also when it’s cold…..there are hardly any tourist crowds to deal with.

Since we didn’t do our homework and Arezzo was a last minute choice, we have to wing it on finding a place to eat. We scored on finding the Trattoria Fonte Giusta in Siena, so we’re hopeful that we’d do the same in Arezzo. However, on our stroll, we come across just a few eating places….none of which appeal to us. So, we keep moving along until we stumble across…...

i know what you mean about not taking the extra insurance - on our trip to Iceland i only realised after we'd picked up the car why they offered special insurance to cover damage to the underneath of the chassis! we were soooo lucky to get away with it.

ANOTHER FABULOUS LOCAL’S JOINT
Where is everybody? The areas of town we’re explored are pretty empty. We’re getting hungrier by the minute. This is no time to be picky or selective as it is also cold. DH is ready to throw in the towel and just go to the next open place that serves food and eat. But, I keep forging on. Forging on to find that perfect Tuscan local’s joint. We turn a couple corners and go down an alley and BINGO! We stumble across Osteria dei Mercanti. This place is crowded, noisy, warm, and smells heavenly. All the right elements for a perfect Tuscan meal. So, this is where everyone is at! I smile at DH. A smile that says, “See, just trust me”. (note: “Just trust me” is a phrase I say repeatedly that DH hates….probably because he knows I’m right? Hee hee).

I spy the “Specials” board and it is definitely Porcini day at dei Mercanti. A few dishes are (sadly) crossed off….one of which would have been my choice: Porcini risotto. As we sit and peel off our layers of scarves, coats, etc., happy and satisfied locals depart. We order a ½ liter of vino della casa (good) for myself and DH gets a Birra Rossa (the grande bottle). We’re happy campers. We order up a couple Insalata Mistas, bruschetta, and since it’s all about Porcini, we order up Porcini ravioli, Porcini cream sauce with pasta, and round it all out with a Porcini Pizza (the server says that Pizza is their specialty). Yes, a feast, but we truly earned this meal. And we wiped our plates clean. This was a wonderfully delectable feast at a reasonable price of 38.90E. http://www.osteriadeimercanti.com/

ANTIQUE LOVERS PARADISE
We, too, are happy and satisfied as we roll out of Osteria dei Mercanti. We continue walking towards the main area of the historical center. It is nearing the latter part of “nap time” and the town becomes more lively. Along the way we recognize some of the landmarks/buildings from the movie, “Life is Beautiful”. There are also signs posted here and there with photos of the movie showing scenes where the filming took place. I would have hoped to be here on a Sunday when the town transforms into a huge antique festival. I'm sure that DH is secretly happy that we are NOT here on a Sunday. He knows me too well, there would be way too many treasures that I couldn't "live without".

It was very relevant that this was an antique lover’s paradise as we came to the area in town which is lined with wonderful antique shops. Many of which were still closed, we were able to peek through windows. We perused many of the open shops. This was turning into a treasure of a day….and so close to home!

DH and I both agreed that there was a lot of pride in this town. It was very clean and well taken care of. We can across the lovely Piazza Grande which is unmistakably the main square in “Life is Beautiful”. The buildings that line the Piazza are so charming it is no wonder this place was the chosen one for the movie.

We were loving the fact that this town was very quiet with few cars whizzing through. Down one alley, we both spied a very inviting shop named Antica Bottega Toscana. This one kept calling to us, so we answered. It was a small charming Tuscan specialty shop with artisan cheeses, meats, oils, pastas, wine, etc. Everything was styled and presented artfully in baskets, display cases, etc. Even the friendly lady working the counter was “dressed the part”. Needless to say, we loaded up here. We bought dried beans and 2 very thick wheels of differing aged Pecorino cheeses all shrink wrapped for the journey home. And other stuff that didn’t make the journey home…extra large artisan dark chocolate bar with nuts (this one didn't even make it to the car), a couple bottles of Rosso di Montalcino, and pasta. So, although we didn’t find any fun antique treasures, we didn’t go home empty handed! http://www.anticabottegatoscana.it/

HOME SWEET HOME
We spent a couple more hours hanging out in Arezzo before calling it a day. We thoroughly enjoyed our day here very much. It was a nice respite from the hustle-and-bustle of other very popular (hence busy) hilltowns. And....it was equally nice to be able to be back at the cottage early. Since we had a feast for a late lunch, we just nibbled and opened up one of our bottles of wines. We called it an early evening tonight. There were still two days left to explore in Tuscany. It was already decided that those would be Pienza and Montepulciano.

Hi Adventure Seeker
I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about your romantic and adventurous trip to Italy with your DH. Your words and photographs have taken me to Italy, they have made me smile and laugh and be sad. I agree with flymeaway on Jun 9, "you are as talented with photography as you are with writing". I have just finished reading "See Naples and Die. The crimes and passions of Italy's darkest jewel" by Penelope Green. While I found her story informative and interesting, your "19 day glorious october", was far more exciting than her year in Naples. No offense meant to Penelope. Thank you for sharing it.
I accidently (or maybe it was meant to be) stumbled on to your review while looking up possible holiday destinations for my DH and I, on what will be our first holiday without our 4 children. Italy was a possible destination but your story has convinced me its the only destination for us. You and other Fodor's member's comments have inspired me to plan and I'm hoping that you'll all offer some suggestions.
We can be away for around 4 weeks, either April/May or August/September. We have a budget of around 600 euro p/d.Neither of us has seen any of Europe

There are so many possibilities with 4 weeks! You are SO lucky. We've done Italy twice in October and loved the Autumn climate and less crowds. However, I would love to see Tuscany, especially in Spring. I'm sure you're aware that the week before/after Easter are very crowded. And not sure if the Italians still are following the August holiday rule where they all go on holiday and close up shop. Another consideration is that many places may already be booked in April/May since it is so close.

As far as your itinerary, I'd love to help you where I can. There are many experienced travelers on this site that would be better at advising a 4 week itinerary (whether starting N to S or going S to N). Once that gets pinned down, I'd love to help you plug in places to stay, things to do, etc.

One thing I'd do if I were planning a long trip is to check out local festivals, events that I would like to see and start planning the trip around those specific dates. (If you're a music lover, you may want to be in Verona during concert season; if you're an opera lover, in Milan to experience La Scala; if you're a food lover....well the possibilites are endless. Then there are many harvests: olive, wine, truffle, etc. that I've always wanted to partake of...but, it didn't fit into our timing/itinerary.)

The other thing that helped us in narrowing down our 3 week trip was we wanted a bit of everything. We chose our "city": Florence (over Rome which seemed to be too overwhelming for 3 days plus it was more South); we chose "romantic and magical": Venice; we chose "country": Tuscany; and we chose "coastal": Cinque Terre. Of course, you can plug in other options: Amalfi (coastal), Rome (city), and Umbria (country) depending if you wanted to do the Southern route. I have to say that the BEST thing we ever did was start our trip in Venice. We came off of a 9 hour time change, 15 hr or so flight and gliding into Venice (with no city traffic, sirens, cars) was truly...La Serenissima! It was the best intro into Europe and to beat jet lag!

I've said it before...."A trip to Italy will change your life...if you let it".

WHILE VISIONS OF PIENZA DANCED IN MY HEAD
From the moment I discovered them on Fodor’s boards, I had every intention of doing one of Stu Dudley’s recommended drives through the Tuscan Countryside. This one was the one that gave you differing perspectives at various times of day. I resolved to the fact that this wasn’t in the cards and would have to (sadly) wait until our next trip when we were stationed in the right locale (specifically the Val D’Orcia region) so we could get an early start.

I ponder that although we’ve had the luxury of spending 7 days in Tuscany, we only have 2 days left and still so many places we haven’t explored. Volterra, San Gimgnano, Chianti, Radda, Cortona, to name a few will have to (sadly) wait until next time. Many travelers are able to knock off 2 hilltowns in a day. I can’t imagine that being in the cards for us, but I suppose if you get an early start, anything is possible. Morning in one town, drive during “siesta” time and then spend the afternoon/evening in another. That seems doable.

Obviously, it has been a (recent) normal routine for us to get a late start. We were enjoying the comforts of a lovely stone cottage to pull ourselves away from it any earlier than expected. And…the chilly Autumn weather didn’t help. All we wanted to do was sit in front of a warm fire and just be. Well, today was surprisingly out of routine. I got up at 7am. Shocking. I looked outside and saw that it had rained overnight. There were scattered gray clouds in the sky, but it looked as if it were done raining. DH stirred and got up just after me. After a quickie fruit/yogurt breakfast and a shower, we were out the door. A record (for us) at 9:30am.

BOSCO DELLA RAGNAIA OR BUST!
From the Fodor’s forum, a Fodorite mentioned this gem of a garden smack dab in
The middle of a forest near S. Giovanni d’Asso in the Crete Sensei region and is close to the Monte Oliveto Abbazia. Since we skipped La Foce’s garden tour yesterday, this one made our list for the day. It was on the route we chose to take to Pienza. The Bosco della Ragnaia is an artist’s interpretive garden that is the vision of American Artist Sheppard Craige. He designed and created this masterpiece which includes works of art from other artists as well. It is free and worth a visit. We were the only ones there at the time of our visit. We spent an inspirational hour here enjoying sculptures and statues weaved through a tapestry of gardens and canopies of old trees. It was a peaceful sanctuary that had an eclectic blend of art meets nature. http://www.laragnaia.com/

ON THE ROAD AGAIN TO SANT’ANNA CAMPRENA MONASTERY We’re back on track and as we continue on our way, we are passing through some not-so-popular, yet gorgeous hill towns. Take your pick! The scenery all around abounds with lovely photo op’s as the hills are dotted with villas and sheep. Yes, we’re back in Pecorino country! We saw our next stop in the distance-Sant’Anna Camprena Monastery which is the location of the filming of “The English Patient”. Our Tuscany trip is somehow turning into a tour of movie sets! The Monastery was perched high on a hill and the winding road to get to it was lovely. Once again, our timing isn’t the best. As we drove down the narrow gravel road lined with cypress trees to the Monastery, it too, was deserted. You guessed it…we’ve arrived during closing. We enjoy touring the grounds and recognized scenes from the movie. A curious white cat seems intrigued by DH and follows him around like a shadow. The Monastery is surrounded by lovely landscape in the shallow valleys below. There is a lovely, almost unkempt cemetery on the grounds. We poke our way around and are not really bothered that it is eerily deserted or closed. Old brick and stone walls are in need of repair and TLC, but quite honestly, it actually adds to the allure of the place and we find ourselves appreciating its age. Although no one is here, we don’t hesitate to pull doors to hopefully find one unlocked so we can explore inside. But, no cigar....this place is buttoned up. We spend 45 minutes or so here enjoying the beauty and solitude. http://www.camprena.it/

THE MOST PICTURESQUE HILLTOWN OF ALL….PIENZA!
Naturally, we arrive at Pienza hungry. We easily find a place to park in a well marked parking lot outside the village. As we walk into the town, we are instantly charmed. This small hilltown is simply lovely and picturesque. It feels as if there were a master plan in the design and elements. There are charming stone/brick arches and alleys, …just where they should be. There is a gorgeous clock tower rising above, …just where it should be. There is a curved row of beautifully lined up buildings w/ wrought iron arches, shutters, vines growing up the walls, …just as it should be. Not only is it eye candy, but it was scrubbed clean. …and nothing is out of place. As we wander the exquisite alleys and narrow passageways, we keep our eyes (and noses) open for a place to eat. Then I remember that I have my “list” for Pienza. My research list is the one that I have “cut and paste” from my fave recommendations from Fodor’s forums and from other articles on the internet. Some that are on the “list”:

(cut and paste from my Pienza list)…..
* If anyone would like a small detour after leaving Pienza turn right at the famous farmhouse of calenders. Drive for about 2 miles and you reach the church of Santa Anna in Camprena (set of the English Patient).
*The classic shot of the capella in the field that is in every Tuscany coffee table book. It is on the south side of S146 between Pienza and San Quirico---about 2 miles outside Pienza.
*Restaurant: *Il Pino, (inside the Porta San Matteo) (highly recommended by 3). It’s like dining in a charming stone cellar with amazing local Tuscan food.
*One of the best meals of the trip at Latte di Luna. Even on Monday in January the place was full and we were very happy that we had booked a table that morning. I began with their justly famed fettucine lavished with black truffles. An amazing bargain for that quality of food. This is a very casual place with friendly service and I only wish it were closer to my own home!! Highly recommended.
So, we just needed to eat and then see the Capella and my list will be completely checked off. The choices being Il Pino or Latte di Luna for lunch. The idea of Il Pino sounded great. Not only recommended by 3 (which I duly noted for their very descriptive account of their meals/experience), but the thought of “dining in a charming stone cellar with amazing local Tuscan food” sounded real good. And I recall what sold me on this place was that it was one which travelers highly recommended that wasn’t splashed all over the guidebooks. The word-of-mouth was appealing to me. So we were on a mission. We needed to find this “Porta San Matteo”. We passed Latte di Luna and spied their wonderful daily menu. The place was small yet packed. We were so tempted to give in, but were on a mission for Il Pino. There is hardly anyone around (can you guess what time it is?). I don’t recall a “Porta” anywhere around Pienza. Hmmm….. We see a delivery guy who we presume knows all the businesses in the village. Thankfully, he spoke some English and I also showed him my list. He looked perplexed and didn’t know where Il Pino was. Hmmm…. We made one more loop around the confines of the town and then ended up back at Latte di Luna where temptation won out.

(back at the cottage, I pulled out my notes to discover that Il Pino is located in San Gimagnano. Oh well, I “cut and paste” to the wrong hilltown!)

In September, DH & I stayed in Pienza for four nights & we loved it!!! I am picturing this pretty town in my mind as I read your vivid descriptions! We had two dinners at Latte di Luna. Can't wait to hear about your dining experience there!

This is the EXACT same post as listed above. It's very confusing since it does NOT have the right spacing and I hit the "submit" button instead of "preview". I have thus reposted with the proper spacing to make it easier to read/understand). Sorry!

***RE-POST***
TUSCANY-Day 4

Part 16 (October 25, 2007)

Day 16

WHILE VISIONS OF PIENZA DANCED IN MY HEAD
From the moment I discovered them on Fodor’s boards, I had every intention of doing one of Stu Dudley’s recommended drives through the Tuscan Countryside. This one was the one that gave you differing perspectives at various times of day. I resolved to the fact that this wasn’t in the cards and would have to (sadly) wait until our next trip when we were stationed in the right locale (specifically the Val D’Orcia region) so we could get an early start.

I ponder that although we’ve had the luxury of spending 7 days in Tuscany, we only have 2 days left and still so many places we haven’t explored. Volterra, San Gimgnano, Chianti, Radda, Cortona, to name a few will have to (sadly) wait until next time. Many travelers are able to knock off 2 hilltowns in a day. I can’t imagine that being in the cards for us, but I suppose if you get an early start, anything is possible. Morning in one town, drive during “siesta” time and then spend the afternoon/evening in another. That seems doable.

Obviously, it has been a (recent) normal routine for us to get a late start. We were enjoying the comforts of a lovely stone cottage to pull ourselves away from it any earlier than expected. And…the chilly Autumn weather didn’t help. All we wanted to do was sit in front of a warm fire and just be. Well, today was surprisingly out of routine. I got up at 7am. Shocking. I looked outside and saw that it had rained overnight. There were scattered gray clouds in the sky, but it looked as if it were done raining. DH stirred and got up just after me. After a quickie fruit/yogurt breakfast and a shower, we were out the door. A record (for us) at 9:30am.

BOSCO DELLA RAGNAIA OR BUST!
From the Fodor’s forum, a Fodorite mentioned this gem of a garden smack dab in the middle of a forest near S. Giovanni d’Asso in the Crete Sensei region and is close to the Monte Oliveto Abbazia. Since we skipped La Foce’s garden tour yesterday, this one made our list for the day. It was on the route we chose to take to Pienza. The Bosco della Ragnaia is an artist’s interpretive garden that is the vision of American Artist Sheppard Craige. He designed and created this masterpiece which includes works of art from other artists as well. It is free and worth a visit. We were the only ones there at the time of our visit. We spent an inspirational hour here enjoying sculptures and statues weaved through a tapestry of gardens and canopies of old trees. It was a peaceful sanctuary that had an eclectic blend of art meets nature. http://www.laragnaia.com/

ON THE ROAD AGAIN TO SANT’ANNA CAMPRENA MONASTERY
We’re back on track and as we continue on our way, we are passing through some not-so-popular, yet gorgeous hill towns. Take your pick! The scenery all around abounds with lovely photo op’s as the hills are dotted with villas and sheep. Yes, we’re back in Pecorino country! We saw our next stop in the distance-Sant’Anna Camprena Monastery which is the location of the filming of “The English Patient”. Our Tuscany trip is somehow turning into a tour of movie sets! The Monastery was perched high on a hill and the winding road to get to it was lovely. Once again, our timing isn’t the best. As we drove down the narrow gravel road lined with cypress trees to the Monastery, it too, was deserted. You guessed it…we’ve arrived during closing. We enjoy touring the grounds and recognized scenes from the movie. A curious white cat seems intrigued by DH and follows him around like a shadow. The Monastery is surrounded by lovely landscape in the shallow valleys below. There is a lovely, almost unkempt cemetery on the grounds. We poke our way around and are not really bothered that it is eerily deserted or closed. Old brick and stone walls are in need of repair and TLC, but quite honestly, it actually adds to the allure of the place and we find ourselves appreciating its age. Although no one is here, we don’t hesitate to pull doors to hopefully find one unlocked so we can explore inside. But, no cigar....this place is buttoned up. We spend 45 minutes or so here enjoying the beauty and solitude. http://www.camprena.it/

THE MOST PICTURESQUE HILLTOWN OF ALL….PIENZA!
Naturally, we arrive at Pienza hungry. We easily find a place to park in a well marked parking lot outside the village. As we walk into the town, we are instantly charmed. This small hilltown is simply lovely and picturesque. It feels as if there were a master plan in the design and elements. There are charming stone/brick arches and alleys, …just where they should be. There is a gorgeous clock tower rising above, …just where it should be. There is a curved row of beautifully lined up buildings w/ wrought iron arches, shutters, vines growing up the walls, …just as it should be. Not only is it eye candy, but it was scrubbed clean. …and nothing is out of place. As we wander the exquisite alleys and narrow passageways, we keep our eyes (and noses) open for a place to eat. Then I remember that I have my “list” for Pienza. My research list is the one that I have “cut and paste” from my fave recommendations from Fodor’s forums and from other articles on the internet. Some that are on the “list”:

(cut and paste from my Pienza list)…..* If anyone would like a small detour after leaving Pienza turn right at the famous farmhouse of calenders. Drive for about 2 miles and you reach the church of Santa Anna in Camprena (set of the English Patient).

*The classic shot of the capella in the field that is in every Tuscany coffee table book. It is on the south side of S146 between Pienza and San Quirico---about 2 miles outside Pienza.

*Restaurant: *Il Pino, (inside the Porta San Matteo) (highly recommended by 3). It’s like dining in a charming stone cellar with amazing local Tuscan food.

*One of the best meals of the trip at Latte di Luna. Even on Monday in January the place was full and we were very happy that we had booked a table that morning. I began with their justly famed fettucine lavished with black truffles. An amazing bargain for that quality of food. This is a very casual place with friendly service and I only wish it were closer to my own home!! Highly recommended.

So, we just needed to eat and then see the Capella and my list will be completely checked off. The choices being Il Pino or Latte di Luna for lunch. The idea of Il Pino sounded great. Not only recommended by 3 (which I duly noted for their very descriptive account of their meals/experience), but the thought of “dining in a charming stone cellar with amazing local Tuscan food” sounded real good. And I recall what sold me on this place was that it was one which travelers highly recommended that wasn’t splashed all over the guidebooks. The word-of-mouth was appealing to me. So we were on a mission. We needed to find this “Porta San Matteo”. We passed Latte di Luna and spied their wonderful daily menu. The place was small yet packed. We were so tempted to give in, but were on a mission for Il Pino. There is hardly anyone around (can you guess what time it is?). I don’t recall a “Porta” anywhere around Pienza. Hmmm….. We see a delivery guy who we presume knows all the businesses in the village. Thankfully, he spoke some English and I also showed him my list. He looked perplexed and didn’t know where Il Pino was. Hmmm…. We made one more loop around the confines of the town and then ended up back at Latte di Luna where temptation won out.

(back at the cottage, I pulled out my notes to discover that Il Pino is located in San Gimagnano. Oh well, I “cut and paste” to the wrong hilltown!)

Adventureseeker-I cannot tell you how much I have been enjoying your report & especially putting the web sites for restaurants & hotels in. My husband & I have been to Italy twice & CT is on my bucket list.
I loved your writing about your BFF. In May 2003 we met a couple from England(My husband & I are from the Bay Area) we have met up with them in Rome-Las Vegas-we were going to meet up in Turkey but the English press advised themnot to(Husband surprized us In Paris) We met them last year in Madeira and next year we plan to meet up in Egypt.
You should be writing and publishing_ could not stop reading.
I dont want to loose this report & information Thank you Thank you Thank you Chris
PS I mean to write journals-do 1-2 days & get so immersed in a holiday I quit. I admire you

DH & I had lunch at Latte di Luna last year and it was one of the best meals we had that trip. It was a perfect day with warm sunshine - we ate outside and had wine, truffles with pasta, roast pork, white beans, cheese - all delicious. I hope you are glad to have eaten there. Pienza was one of our favorite towns - loved the Pecorino cheese! Can't wait to read your next chapter!

BeniciaChris...Grazie for your gracious comments. I love that your travel BFF's have become future travel partners!

We still keep in touch w/ our beloved M & B. Naturally, we couldn't imagine Cinque Terre without them, so we invited them on our recent trip. And...they would've been there in a heartbeat had they not had travel plans to Florida at the same time.

On our trip to Zihuatanejo, Mexico last year, we met another BFF couple (from Seattle, WA) that we instantly clicked with and spent the entire rest of our trip with. Since they live closer, we've seen them a few times since and hope to plan another journey together soon. They, too, have become kindreds.

Ahhh, there is something so wonderful about travel...when you are not only open to new experiences, but to new friendships as well.

Re: Journals. If you could only see my "journal" from this trip. It's a collaboration of pages of chicken scratch and notes stuffed within a notebook. Some of which is just one word: a sight, a scent, a feeling. That and sometimes a peek at my photos is all I need to take me back and write a paragraph. It's embedded in my memory. For this trip, a girlfriend gave me a lovely journal which I dared to write a couple pages in, but I'm not known for my penmanship! The thoughts just spill out of me (all the time, faster than I can write!), so I couldn't ruin my pretty book. I aspire to someday take my time and write ever so carefully in it....copying this lengthly piece word-for-word.

Luckily, our most recent trip was very well organized/documented in the journal department. I brought a very "non-pretty" black and white Composition notebook. It did the trick and everything is duly noted in one place and most importantly...in order! I can't wait to share....

Bab706...I can taste the meal right now. Lucky you to be able to sit outdoors with charming Pienza as the backdrop.
Oh, yes...and the Pecorino cheese! Mamma mia!

Adventurseeker-We must have same likes. My husband |& I went to Zihu this year-our 3rd trip. We leave Friday to go to Cozumel-Playa & Cancun for 3 weeks.I think you mentioned you were originally from Hawaii?? We love it-we were married there 27 years ago-Went back to Kauai & the Big Island for our 20th. Our 25th was in Bali. I think I love warm spots. YOu licked out with such georgous weather in October in Italy. I have found October can be an iffy month.
Also you live in Santa Barbara?? MY dad did his internship in Santa Barbara & I went to grades 1-3 there-then in 79 when I split up with my ex-I lives there again. It is a beautiful city-Happy Travels Chris
PS My daughter & granddaughter & family lives in Wash so I'm up there often

BeniciaChris...Small world! We would've gone back to Zihua or traveled to Playa del Carmen/Riviera Maya last month if it hadn't been for the health/security issues (something we had to not take lightly since we had our 8 year old with us). We would've loved to go south-of-the-border especially for that rate of exchange!

Plan B: Kauai or Maui and then hop over to Oahu to visit with family, but the airfares started to climb up to $600+ per person (shocking for late October!). So that's when we booked Italy.

And another kismet.....my Dad's family is from Spokane and Colfax, Washington. Yours too?

I don't know if you know with an alaska airlines credit card you can buy one plane ticket & a companion is 50 (They are increasing to 99) They are the only airlines I know that let you fly to Canada Mexico & Hawaii & use it.
I don't blame you re health issue-I checked with our travel nurse & she advised the H1N1 BUT they didn't have. I have my face masks-echenecea & airborne.
Both my parents were from Oregon-We did live in Wash when I was young. My daughter took my granddaughter about 4 years ago because they thought they could never aford a house in California. We took them to Disneyworld last year-My granddaughter loved it. I have put in a weeks trade with a timeshare Co for Mauai March 2011.
We are going to Egypt & Jordan next year for a month-this site is the best for travel info.
Counting the days till we fly south. The rate of exchange is why we decided to do Mexico this year . Thanks again for your report-Chris

Amazing report, I have learned so much from you! Quick questions: is it safe to wander around Venice @ 6 am alone. I'm an early riser, but my husband is not, & I'd love to explore like you did. Also, I've checked the LO for the time we are planning June 2011. Rooms are over $300 a night. Ouch. We were hoping to pay between $150-175. Any other recommendations, or should I post that out to the forum? Thanks

despite the best efforts of donna leon, Venice is renouned to be one of the safest places in Italy - there is no-where for the crooks to run to! When we visited in November a few years ago I was regularly up by 7am, and in June, by 6am it will be very bright, with lots of acitivity by the locals, [all the delivery and rubbish barges are around, for example] and wonderful light for photos.

if you are booking now, you should find plenty of availablity in your price-range. or have you thought of an apartment?

I have just finished reading your blog and I can't wait to go to Italy. You did a fabulous job and I can see and smell and feel everything you wrote. I am planning a trip in May of next year 2012 and I do believe that I will follow your trip with some additions. my friend followed your trip almost to a t, and she said you were right on target. Thanks for all of the pics and web sights. ciao

Griffy: This is a terrific trip report - but it is also awfully old. See the gold star at the top of the page? That is how you can save a thread to your favorites/bookmarks. (Or you can use the envelope to e-mail it to yourself)

Hi...it's Adventureseeker. I'm back! Signed into boards needing an Italia "fix". Gotta dust off my notes to finish the last three days. Although this trip was over 5 years ago, the memories are still fresh in mind, senses, heart and soul!

And...not sure if I had mentioned it previously, but DH and I made another trip back to Italia in October '09 (a year later than this trip) with our 8 yr old son in tow. That is also a trip report that needs to be told...sigh!

Just found your fabulous report. In Rome now for 8 days then Venice for 4 days and Florence for 6 days.
Your report brings back many memories of previous trips I hve made, also giving me ideas of new things to see.
Glad you werre able to return with your son.

Ahhh...your itinerary is right up our alley. Perfect amount of days in each destination allowing enough time to savor. We haven't made it to Rome (yet), but can't imagine enjoying "her" for anything less than a week. I think we owe "her' that!

I cutting and pasting the last entry to make it easier for me to read - hope you don't mind...

TUSCANY-Day 6

Part 17 (October 25, 2007)

Day 16

A FANTASTIC MEAL AT LEGENDARY LATTE DI LUNA
We trek back to Latte di Luna (LDL) surrounded by lovely old stone buildings, arches and alleyways. DH takes notice how quiet and tranquil it is. We both comment how desolate the town is…making note that once again…it is siesta time. Luckily for us, when we made the first round to LDL, it was not only inviting with its simple menu proudly displayed on an easel, lush potted plants and charming courtyard (likely set with tables, umbrellas and happy diners during warmer days!),it was…OPEN!

Not wasting a second, we didn’t bother to stop and check out the outside menu but instead head straight for the door. Once inside this charming trattoria, we were immediately greeted with warmth and the smells of delicious rustic cuisine. It was a heady scent that I will never forget…a combination of burning wood, herbs and slow-cooking meat. Heavenly! DH looks at me and I know EXACTLY what he is thinking...THIS was the place. I respond to his expression by exclaiming, “Mama's cooking”! The place was small, packed to the gills (with both locals and tourists) and lively. Befitting ambiance for a charming day in a Tuscan village! It was a bit cramped as we stood waiting for a table. We were rewarded shortly with a quaint table for two in the back. Our server quickly handed us menus which after a glance…we knew we were in for an authentic Tuscan feast.

We started with a yummy yet simple salad of greens dressed in local olive oil and vinegar. Next up was a platter of tasty bruschetta and a serving of local pecorino that melted in our mouths. Our server was warm and gracious. We asked for a local wine recommendation stating that we both really enjoyed the Rosso di Montalcino. He picked out a very reasonable yet delicious bottle for us. I ordered the suckling roast pig which was their specialty and boy oh boy…it didn’t disappoint. The meat was tender and tasty with a smoky slightly crispy skin. It tasted exactly like the scent we were greeted with upon entering: wood, herbs, meat. Fabulous! DH ordered a pasta dish of some sort which he was equally thrilled with. I don’t recall nor did I make mention in my notes of what kind of dish it was…I suppose I was too busy being seduced by my meal! This was a meal worth savoring and that we did! We had a great conversation with our server about California once he asked us where we were from. We also engaged in a lengthy conversation with an older couple from the East Coast who were seated at the next table. They travel to Tuscany annually renting the same villa on a nearby farm, staying there for at least a month. They were dining with the Italian couple who own the farm with whom they have been friends with for many years. This was their final dinner of the trip and they bring the owners to dine at Latte di Luna (every time) just before they go back to reality (aka home). The American gentleman went as far as jotting down the owner’s name and website of the farm on a slip of paper for us to possibly stay at in the future. “You’ll be back”, he said confidently. Never a doubt, I thought. Sadly, the paper was nowhere to be found when we got back to the cottage. I just love stories like these with other travelers or better yet, with the locals...renewing the reason why I love to travel and immerse myself in different cultures.

LIFE IN ITALIA…LIVING “LA DOLCE VITA”!
Stuffed and happy, it was time for us to leave this wonderful dining experience...chalking it up as our most authentic Tuscan meal (thus far). Bidding adieu to our new friends, we headed on our way. The village of Pienza was starting to come alive, albeit barely. I captured the majority of what I refer to as my “la dolce vita” (life is sweet) photos from this town such as older Italian ladies folding sheets, sweeping and tending to their homes. My favorite was of the backside of a younger generation lady accompanying what appeared to be her elderly mama on a walk down a cobblestone path. We popped into a few shops, but mainly just enjoyed exploring this village and taking in the stunning views from this hilltop town perched high above the rolling hillside. Bellissimo!

It was a long, full day and seemingly equal l-o-n-g drive back to our cottage. We opened a bottle of vino and put together an easy snack of cheeses, bread and fruit. DH was too tired to attempt to tackle the daunting task of making a fire, so we just sat quietly listening to music while reading. After having poured only two glasses of vino, the bottle was re-corked (surprisingly for us!) and we happily turned in early…in the dreamy bed...in the sweet stone cottage…in the lovely sleepy village of Sogna…in the gorgeous land called Tuscany. ZZZzzz

Next...On the road (again) to Montepulciano!

BTW - Still loving the TR and I admire your perseverance (5 years, could be a record...)

Last note about Pienza: I’m not a big shopper by nature and when I do…I’m very selective. We did the majority of our shopping in Pienza where it was chock full of unique charming enotecas and high quality shops. One in particular was an alabaster shop that carried very unique items. I loaded up on lovely polished alabaster wine bottle toppers in a spectrum of vivid colors. I brought these back for friends (and myself)…later wishing I would have snagged a dozen more! Also a prized treasure…a petite chartreuse alabaster vase that now sits on my mantel at home and garners more compliments from visitors than any other piece I own. Lastly, we loaded up on a couple bottles of vino and more dried items: Italian style beans, porcini mushrooms and pastas to journey back home with us.

ON THE ROAD (AGAIN)…TO MONTEPULCIANO!
After what was easily one of our best sleeps in Italy (hmmm…likely tied with La Mala in Vernazza!), I woke up at 7am to the peaceful pitter patter of rain interrupted with an occasional thunder. It was calming and lulled me back to sleep for a couple hours more. When I awoke for the second time, DH was already awake and had his nose buried in Ross King’s “Brunelleschi’s Dome”. In my opinion, it’s a must read for anyone going to Florence. The book is an interesting and easy read about Brunelleschi and his architectural and engineering feat in designing/building the Douomo. I had read the it before leaving the U.S. and was empowered (ha!) with the great knowledge of the Duomo. DH had 1/4 of the book left to read and wanted to power through it before we went back to Florence. We saved our very last day in Italy for a date with the Duomo. While DH read, I poured through the scribbled notes in my so-called “journal”.

Last night, DH and I discussed briefly what the agenda would be for today…sadly, our last day in Tuscany. The thought of a long drive didn’t sound appealing in the least. Visiting Montepulciano was high on our list, but we weren’t in the mood. Fortunately, getting a (much needed) restful and long sleep must’ve done us wonders because we changed our tune and were willing to tackle Montepulciano...later in the day.

Around 10am, we finally got moving…s-l-o-w-l-y. First thing I did once downstairs was open the front door to get a good whiff of the crisp clean air and peek at the rain’s affect on the aged stone buildings, landscape and sky. It was simply breathtaking. Everything the raindrops touched were vibrant and fresh looking. Ahhhh! Back inside, I whipped up a quick frittata and cut up some pears and strawberries for breakfast. We ate and finished off the arancia rossa (blood orange) juice and then showered. I saved a handful of strawberries to go with a bottle of Prosecco we had chilling. It was rejuvenating to ease into the crisp Autumn morning with no rush whatsoever. We began packing, piddled around and by 2pm DH whipped up a quick lunch of porcini ravioli swimming in a light olive oil “sauce” of caramelized onion and garlic topped with a blanket of freshly grated pecorino. We polished off the remainder of the vino. Again noting to ourselves that EVERYTHING tastes better in Italia!

As with keeping to our “late start” pattern, we were on the road by 3pm. It was crisp out and the roads slick. We mapped out a quicker route which was mainly freeway with a short scenic route to the town. Within an hour…voila…we were parking! The parking areas were easily marked (yippee) and the historical center of town was a short distance
away. It was lightly raining so we brought out the umbrella (but not without patting myself on the back for being prepared in my packing!).

The town of Montepulciano was yet another lovely Tuscan hilltop village perched on a ridge overlooking the dramatic valley below. It was somewhat larger than Pienza and much more bustling. The layout of the town was more narrow and snaked upwards. Being that we arrived near the tail end of siesta, the town was just starting to come alive. People with their colorful umbrellas added to the picturesque scenery. Knowing it was our last day in Tuscany, we made a point to truly take it all in…the smallest of details. We had no plan except to have our last supper in Tuscany at La Porta in nearby Montecchiello. The next couple hours we enjoyed strolling in the light rain while ducking in and out of exquisite shops, stopping to marvel at a wrought iron cross or clock perched on top of a building and taking notice of Italian life at its fullest. Another sweet photo opportunity presented itself with an Italian woman in her 60’s walking with her short legged dog that was all bundled up in a colorful handmade knitted sweater. The dog was as thick as it was short…waddling along the slick cobblestone. She made eye contact with me and I motioned to my camera as to get her permission to snap a shot. She smiled back and nodded. I got a few shots of them…her with a smile and them slowly descending (waddling) down the narrow pathway.

The shops of Montepulciano were very attractive and atmospheric…exactly what you think a Tuscan town should be like. One of which struck my fancy. It was a home decor/gift shop called Fatamorgana. It sure brought the “girl” out in me. No wine, no cheeses, no same old earth-tone leather goods at this place. It was a mecca for modern home décor, clothing and gift items. I left with a bag full of fun goodies for myself…a taupe waxed canvas tote, bookmarks, soap dish and my prized possession: a chunky square plum-colored stone ring in silver. There was absolutely nothing Tuscan nor rustic about any of these purchases. They were contemporary, elegant and simplistic…but it sure puts a grin on my face when I remember that they’re from Italia!

One of the many beauties of these hilltowns are the views below. DH and I took one of the alleyways from the center of the town to the outer edge where we were rewarded with stunning images of the valley below blanketed in mist and fog. The rain had brightened the landscape and made it appear more vivid and dreamy. Molto bellissimo!

Alas, this was a good time to bid Montepulciano adieu and further delight our senses with an authentic Tuscan meal. Since we didn’t have GPS, we relied upon our map and notes to find La Porta in Montecchiello. It was dark now. After nearly an hour and a series of winding roads, loops plus confusion, we (gladly) drove back to Montepulciano, parked back in our exact spot and headed into the center to fill our tummies!

Our expectations where somewhat high being this would be our last Tuscan meal. We strolled past a few notables checking menus and ambiance. We settled upon a cozy Trattoria di Cagnano that evoked a casual yet rustic feel in a warm setting. It turned out to be a good choice. Over a simple yet delizioso meal of salad, pizza, pasta and local vino, we chatted with a friendly Australian couple at the next table who were visiting Italy for a couple months. Montepulciano was simply a weekend getaway for them. The wife was taking an Italian immersion course in Bologna. She has me thinking of that possibility...immersion in (all things) Italian. Not that it hadn't crossed my mind from the minute I stepped off the plane 17 days ago. I was bitten by the Italy "bug" and I had it bad!

We make the hour drive back to our cottage which seems like an eternity but we both agree that Montepulciano was well worth it. Once home, we nix the idea of opening the prosecco. It's late, but DH struggles to get our last fire started. He knows how much it means to me...especially on our last night. Luckily he brought in a few handfuls of wood before it rained. The logs are still too darn thick to burn easily, but at least they were dry. He makes some progress, but has to continually stoke the fire. We sit on the couch and chat about our wonderful Tuscany adventures before we drift off…

adventureseeker:
This is too funny...you can always find me on the Hawaii board as I rarely visit the Europe forum except today!

Today, I had Italy on the brain, as it seems from your post, that you have as well these days. I clicked on my name to find my old Italy post <adventureseeker, bobthenavigator, zeppole...10 days in Italy...help!> and to my delight I had a post from you! I am so excited that you are completing your trip report...I LOVED it! I am going to reread it now that it will be complete!

Italy update: I never did make it to Italy...still have yet to plan it. It's really hard for DH & I to plan trips to other places because we are obsessed with Kauai! We went in May 2011 for DH's 30th bday and then we went to Colorado for my 30th bday in Oct 2011. We have also gone to Colorado the past couple of winters for a cabin getaway and back to Kauai in Sept 2012. In just 23 days we will be going back to Kauai!! My brother and his fiancee are going along with us...very funny coincidence...DH and my brother's fiancee share the same bday so we will be there to celebrate!

I've started thinking...what do I want to do next year if I can resist Kauai? I, still, would love to visit Italy so we shall see. I have every intention of visiting CT and staying at La Mala! Maybe next year will be the one...!

Ciao to Tuscany!
Naturally with our trip winding down, I didn’t sleep well last night. Today we leave Tuscany and tomorrow we leave Italy. HEAVY sigh. All those exciting hours in planning this trip, the anticipation and the last 17 days living it out were beyond our wildest dreams and high expectations.

I roll over and see that DH is already awake and he is reading. He has two short chapters left in his book (Brunellsechi’s Dome). Perfect timing as we have a date with “her” today. He finishes the book, we pack, make a quick meal using up the rest of our breakfast items and I write a very long (big surprise…right?) entry in the cottage’s guest book. We bid a very emotional goodbye to our lovely Sogna Piccola stone cottage with the hopes that we will come back…someday. Bye stone cottage, bye cats, bye Sogna...

Car return fiasco!
It’s a non-descriptive drive to Florence via the highway. First thing we need to do is return the car. No problem, right? We have pretty good directions (so we think) and a map. We are to return the car to the downtown Firenze location. It looks fairly easy, but we find that looks can be deceiving. After a very frustrating hour (no exaggeration) circling the city, navigating around congested one-way streets. We get out the phone and call the office. I’m praying that we get someone who speaks English that we can understand. Luckily, we do. We follow their directions and still end up in chaos. No return garage to be found. There is a point during this madness that I lose my cool. I yell, “Stop the #%@! car. Let’s just park it and tell them to come get it!” DH who is normally very calm is getting angry too. This is not how we wanted to end the trip. After another 30 minutes, we try another street and lo and behold, see a “Hertz” sign (Hallelujah!). It’s the rental office, not the return garage. DH parks in a zone we probably shouldn’t be parking in, goes in and get concise directions to the return garage which is down the street but if you blink, you’d miss it!

After this car return disaster, the diversion to Pisa to exchange the initial car and the damage done to the bumper on the narrow alley…we decide that renting a car in a foreign country on future trips will NOT be on our list…UNLESS there is no other option! (Note: This revelation is further cemented once we get home and receive two separate tickets for parking and traveling in zones in Tuscany that were for “residents only”. Whatever…)

Florence…we’re back!
We have a pow-wow with each other that we will not let this car matter ruin our day and decide to let it go…for now. Easier said than done! We flag down a cab and head to Residenza il Villino where we have a reservation for our last night. Our warm greeting by the owner Sergio couldn’t have been better nor lovelier. The inn was located behind a heavy door and within the walls of a building near the Galleria dell'Accademia. It was very private and serene with a courtyard in the middle. It was clean, welcoming, charming and the service was outstanding. A steal for 127E!

In awe…the majestic Duomo!

We beeline in the direction of the Duomo. It’s a lovely and quick jaunt from the inn. We are rejuvenated and the memories of the earlier fiasco begin to melt away. I quickly scan my notes for dining options nearby and we decide to give Il Sasso di Dante a try. It’s (surprisingly )easy to find as it is small and set back from the street. The feel of the ristorante is perfectly fitting the bill for our last lunch in Italy…rustic yet casual. The menu is very Tuscan and reasonable. After a hearty meal of Ribollita, Tuscan white beans and arugula, tortellini, bread and (of course) vino…we are satisfied and ready to tackle the climb up to the top of the Dome.

We walk towards the Duomo which has easily become one of the most beautiful buildings I have every laid eyes on. Having read “Brunelleschi’s Dome”, it both deconstructed and romanticized the process. Armed with this newfound education, I could truly appreciate the sweat and thought put into it which took over besides just marvel at its beauty. We arrive at our destination and enter inside the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore which is the cathedral the Dome sits upon. It is massive. We stop to pay tribute to Filippo Brunelleschi’s tomb which is somewhat understated compared to other tombs and crypts we have seen.
The majestic frescoed ceiling of the Duomo was amazing. WOW! After exploring the inside, we are now ready to climb the stairs to the top. The entrance to the stairs is on the outside. We join the people lined up and after 20 minutes, we begin. It’s 473 steps to the top. I was expecting it to be very claustrophobic which it is tight in some areas, yet very manageable.
It’s cool to see the inner framework of the dome which I understand more fully since reading the book. There are many open “windows” about 12 X 12 in size that you can peer outside.
Along the way, there are a few rooms which house a display of tools used and explanations on the construction. My favorite part was near the top when the walkway opens up inside the cathedral and you walk along the inner rim of the dome. We are so high up that the people below look like ants. The frescoes are just above us and it is amazing to almost be able to touch it. As we make our final climb to the outer area of the top, we are treated to the bells pealing. I will NEVER forget this surreal moment as the bells echoed as far as the eye could see. It brings tears to my eyes. The panoramic view of Florence and beyond was worth EVERY step to the top. The brick red rooftops of Florence were so vibrantly stunning from above. We spend at least an hour here taking in every view…not wanting to miss a thing. We locate Fiesole and the surrounding areas which we didn’t have a chance to explore…this trip.
As with my promise to David, I can’t come back to Florence without climbing to the top of the dome. It is absolutely worth it and I will recommend this to anyone lucky enough to visit Florence. This is a must! A definite highlight!

After the climb, we visited the impressive Museo dell’Opera del Duom to get a history lesson and view such works of art as the Ghiberti’s original bronzed bapistry door panels and Michelangelo’s second Pieta’ statue. Well worth it. It not only gives you a sense of the development and construction, but houses a lovely art collection.

We mosey around the area until dinner. With no real plans or hint as to where to dine, we spy a charming Natalino Ristorante. It’s not on my list nor do I have any knowledge of reading anything about it. We scan the menu and peer inside. Looks like the perfect spot to have our last Italian meal…and that we did! The food, vino, service and patrons were all lovely. These are the gems of our trip…unplanned spontaneous places and experiences that we stumble across. Then again…I seriously doubt you can get a bad meal in Italy! Over dinner, DH and I recap our day and both agree that saving the Duomo visit until the end was perfection. We both read the book and felt that made us appreciate it more. Then reality hits that tomorrow this trip of years in the planning will be over. Yes, we won’t be here…but the memories are forever engraved in our hearts!

On our walk back, we stop for the most amazing Gelato of our entire trip…Gelato Artigianale. I chose Nocciola (Hazelnut) and vanilla. DH opted for Pistachio. YUM!! We both claim we saved the best for last!