The stock 90° elbow into the turbo is no longer available - P/N: 46023AA110

I spoke w/two Subaru parts departments and it's 'discontinued/obsolete' from the factory.

Edit 6/4/2018: The WRX 46023FA000 part is still avl @ Partsouq.com.

EDIT 9/7/2016: I bought the JDM/EDM/Aussie WRX version - 46023FA000- as an extra from https://partsouq.com/ for $33.76 SHIPPED. They are in UAE, and it took less than 10 days to get it. It was factory packaged and labeled.

Stumbled across this guy. About $41, I calculated shipping to about $37 with Fedex or $12 DHL to Portland, OR.

James614 wrote:Just to be clear, the part in the rhdjapan link is the JDM 89-95 Legacy/WRX EJ20G inlet. It is slightly different than the USDM EJ22T part, specifically the fitting for the F-pipe is on the opposite side and the BPV fitting is at a significantly different angle, you will likely need custom hoses for both to make them fit (standard bulk hose works fine from my experience). All this is spelled out in the first link, but I don't want anyone seeing one for sale and jumping on it without being aware that it's not an exact fit.

EDIT 7/31/12: Per 'diesel devil' (page 2) they are still available IN CANADA and I just confirmed w/Richmond Subaru near Vancouver, BC they are in the Toronto warehouse @ $64.87 CAD + shipping, so 'diesel devil' is making y'all a good deal.

Same Part Number in Canada, too.

Get 'em while you can!

The US version:

I contacted two European LCBBS member and they can still get this P/N in Europe: 46023FA000

This is for the early '90's WRX and Legacy/Liberty from Europe, Australia, etc (the versions w/intercoolers). It is different, but similar:

I am not sure on the piping sizes so someone may answer this for me. Can a Perrin/Simco/Cobb inlet pipe from a 02 up WRX be modified? It seems like you could get rid of the crappy OEM unit and the hard plastic resonator with just one pipe. http://www.perrinperformance.com/subaru ... sp-int-401 .

Maybe this'd be a good time to list what we know about the dimensions of the stock boot.

Off the top of my head:

The entire boot is made of (originally) flexible material and meant to slip over the outer diameters of rigid pipes.

The large fitting at the elbow is 19mm ID, meant for the bypass valve. In stock form, there's a 19mm steel coupling stuck in it to connect it to the hose. 19mm is very close to 3/4".

The other two are 12mm ID, for PCV fittings. Each of them have plastic fittings stuck in. The one that points to the driver's side of the car is a little funny; it has a part that sticks into the boot that's kind of spoon-shaped. 12mm is close to 1/2".

The inlet of the entire thing (the end that attaches to the resonator) is 65mm ID; that's close to 2-1/2". The outlet (the end that attaches to the turbo's compressor elbow) is 55mm ID, kind of close to 2-1/4".

The solution to this may be to just use a 90-degree silicone elbow and move all the fittings to a coffee-cup-style resonator replacement.

Hm. Here's an idea:

Install an MBC so you don't have to worry about the stock boost control valve plumbing. Then, put a check valve in the hose going to the middle fitting of the charcoal canister, so you can get rid of the auxiliary purge plumbing.

Now, get a piece of 3-1/8" pipe (the elbow coming off the MAF has an 80mm ID, close to 3-1/8"). Weld/solder/braze/epoxy/whatever on two 3/4" OD elbows (one for the IAC and one for the BOV), and a couple of 1/2" OD fittings for the PCV (probably one elbow and one straight). This will replace the resonator and everything that used to attach to the stock boot will attach to it.

That new fancy pipe connects to the turbo's compressor inlet with a 3-1/8"-to-2-1/4" 90-degree reducer elbow.

And, of course, you could play with the diameters a little. You could probably get away with a 3"-to-2-1/4" elbow which would be easier to find, for example.

So I think I may have found a OEM solution to 46023AA110 no longer being available! Hopefully!

I found P# 46023AA020 at my local Subaru dealer. It looks to be the exact same part and is only $36+/-. I ordered one to do a side by side comparison and it should be here in a few days. Fingers crossed!

If anyone can find an image of ( P# above ) to post here it would be great. I looked for a good amount of time and came up with nothing.

Looks to me like the only difference between ours and the Impreza EJ20G model is the location of the block breather fitting (F-pipe). The euro part looks like it'll work fine if you just extend/bend that one hose.

Are there any overseas LC members who can give us a price for these? I'm interested in one, since I'll be installing an Apexi intake (not modding a $160 coffee cup!), and my original elbow is unlike to survive my TD04 swap I can't believe the samco part jumped to 400... Talk about supply/demand.

Achieving what vrg3 said with a secondary pipe section sounds easy, but I don't have the tools to weld it up cleanly, and I'm not doing the epoxy'd brass fitting thing in my car.

My bpv will be relocated to the 20g's location, so that would be gravy, lol. But even if I wasn't, from what I recall there's plenty of play in stock bpv hose to move it slightly if needed. If worse comes to worse, a <$3 length of non-molded hose would do it without risking cracks in the original hose (though my bpv hose is a lot tougher than my turbo inlet elbow...)

I am so bummed. I cracked my elbow when I took it off my SS the other day. I wish I would have known how easy they are to break. I'm trying to figure what to do next, but the replacements listed on this thread are so expensive.

I bought a black '93 SS w/160k and it promptly blew a HG.

I am in the middle of tearing out the engine and it is putting up a fight. I'm getting tired and a bit frustrated.

I'm going to try taping it up temporarily. A buddy of mine (subikid) on the LGT forum is going to try fabricating an elbow and coffee can mod as a unit going from the air box to the turbo. It it works out, he is thinking about selling them to SS owners, which will be pretty cool and is greatly needed.

vrg3 wrote:Also, when the fitting for the blowoff valve tore, I just put a piece of 1" heater hose over the outside of it. It worked well enough that I called it a permanent fix.

My turbo to throttle body pipe cracked on the turbo side. I cut 2/3 inch off the end to stop the crack. I then cut 2 inches of radiator hose (generic straight piece meant for american cars) and with CONSIDERABLE FORCE and lubrication pushed it up the tube. The only noticeable difference is that I have two clamps in the area instead of one.

I tried ordering it from Merlin Motorsports for about half the price. But they're in the UK and exchange rates + international shipping ($100!) Killed it. I'm still on the prowl for one, but trying to avoid shafting myself. In the mean time I've got some RTV doing "okay" on my old one.

I didn't take any pics of it mocked-up, but the 20G elbow would work just fine on the stock setup. The angle of the BOV is too sharp to bend the stock hose to, so you'd have to just snake a generic hose around to it. Ditto with the line coming off the F-Pipe. The J-pipe connecting the valve cover breathers plugs into the same spot. I've seen far more stock rubber 20G elbows than USDM ones (probably because they were into production for 4-5 years longer and the engines are imported like crazy) so it's definitely an option if you can't find a good stock one.

I personally held out for a used Samco piece, because I figured the flexibility would help me with my TD04 install (it did... I probably would have cracked a stock rubber one).