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Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

Originally Posted by SunDeck

River birches are not long lived, in the first place, so I wouldn't put too much effort into saving it. And they are not as valuable to your home value as are shade trees. Basically, they are planted in ornamental situations and outgrow that purpose.

I know it would be a bummer to lose the screen they provide, but I am doubtful that hacking off half the tree will "save" it. Trees don't generally work that way unless it has contracted diseases from the wounds caused by the damage you describe. It may be that this tree is just in a state of decline anyway. The first thing I thougt of was borers, but if you are sure they are not the prob. then I believe you. However, I have seen birches just crash and burn for no apparent reason.

Generally, smallish yellow leaves are a sign of stress. When it is localized, it's usually insect or disease. When it's systemic, such as one half or all of the tree declining at the same rate, it's usually environmental (ie, soil, cultural problems).

You could remove it and replace with another ornamental tree, or even another Rbirch.

Post a picture or two, maybe that will help.

SunDeck:

It is with a heavy heart that I accept your advice. From what you've described, it sounds like it's almost time to fire up the old chipper. Thanks for your help!

Blimpie

"Booing on opening day is like telling grandma her house smells like old lady."--WOY

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

We did plant a Weeping Willow over the weekend. I would like a tree that provides shade for obvious reasons.

Yikes! We grew up with huge, towering weeping willows with big knotty roots that came out of the ground. Mess to clean up after.

They're evil Ents.

"Whatever you choose, however many roads you travel, I hope that you choose not to be a lady. I hope you will find some way to break the rules and make a little trouble out there. And I also hope that you will choose to make some of that trouble on behalf of women." - Nora Ephron

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

We've got a river birch in front of our house. I've pruned the thing like crazy (lower branches mostly), but it keeps growing *up*. I can always tell when things are getting dry because the river birch is the first thing to get stressed and it starts turning yellow and drops leaves. Its the canary in the coal mine for our yard.

My wife and I did a yard walk over the weekend.

Standing by the river birch, I said "Jeez, that thing is getting huge. How long do they last?".

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

It seems people like Pine Trees around here. It does look awkward out in the desert. They do grow well, however.

We did plant a Weeping Willow over the weekend. I would like a tree that provides shade for obvious reasons.

Pines are conifers. There are about a bazillion of them, too. Pines like it dry, that's why they thrive in sandy places down southeast. And if your ever lost in a swamp, look for the pines because that's where the land is. They can't take the water.

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

By the way folks, it's time to fertilize (those of us in the midwest).
Most commercial fertilizers for this time of year are high in nitrogen to give the grass a big rush of foliage. Personally, I like to stick with something balanced, but that's very hard to find if you are also looking for crab and weed control. Most of those products are created as part of a year long program (ie, Scott's steps 1-4)

Application of fertilizer is always based on pounds 1000 per square feet. Don't know how much or at what rate to apply it? The bag will tell you how many square feet its total contents will cover. That translates to a rate (like 13 lbls per 1000 Sq Ft). Just walk off your yard and get a rough guess about the square footage, measure out the appropriate amount of fertilizer, then set your spreader to a pretty light setting. Keep going over it until you are out of fertilizer. That way, by applying it lightly you will cover your yard evenly.

I actually use a hand spreader, but if you use a push-type stick with a broadcast rather than a drop spreader. Much more forgiving.
If you buy a Scott's spreader, then you can follow the directions on the fert. bags for spreader settings. These settings are meant to equate the lbs/sq foot needed. However, I still like to cut the rate in half and cover the yard twice, in perpendicular directions.

Other fertilizing-
Bone meal is great for perennials right now. And hit them again after they flower.
Don't worry about your trees if you are fertilizing your yard. If your tree is young or in distress, then get a good root feeder. These attach to your hose and disolve pellets of fert. into the root zone. Very effective at putting the nutrients near the feeder roots.

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

Is it better to try and sharpen the mower blade or throw it away and buy a brand new blade? Do those little blade sharperner gadgets do a good job? I heard the sharper the blade the healtier the grass will become.

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

Can you plant grass where moss has taken up residence?

"Whatever you choose, however many roads you travel, I hope that you choose not to be a lady. I hope you will find some way to break the rules and make a little trouble out there. And I also hope that you will choose to make some of that trouble on behalf of women." - Nora Ephron

Re: The yard & garden line is OPEN

Originally Posted by RedBloodedAmerican

Is it better to try and sharpen the mower blade or throw it away and buy a brand new blade? Do those little blade sharperner gadgets do a good job? I heard the sharper the blade the healtier the grass will become.

A sharp blade cuts the grass cleaner. It makes sense that this helps your grass because cutting it is essentially creating a wound on each blade. A cleaner cut heals faster than a ragged one, and that means the grass has to expend less energy to heal. So, yes it does help your lawn.

Haven't ever tried any gadgets like that, so I can't say whether they work or not.

I sharpen mine with a file a few times each summer.
However, you can get yourself into trouble if you don't keep it balanced. That's why I use a file instead of a bench grinder because it's a slower process- removing less material and allowing me to keep from getting carried away. That, and I'm too cheap to buy a bench grinder just for mower blades.
To check for balance, I just hang the blade on a nail.

Inspect the blade. If it has any really big gouges, or if it is bent or twisted, discard it and start with a new one.

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