Description

This is an okay route to do while waiting to climb Kim. Start around corner left of SW Friction and Kim. Belay in crack and rap as for Kim.

Per Aeon Aki: About 50 feet left of Southwest Friction, Boulder Hop climbs a 30 some foot hand crack to the top of the Rat Brain. Begin by stepping off of a boulder and onto a small ledge. Make an anchor to belay your second then rap from the fixed rings at the top of Southwest Friction.

Eds. This is a combination of two submissions for the same route combined onto 1 page to avoid duplication and confusion.

This has been said before, but I'll say it again. This climb may be 5.5, but it's a different 5.5 than, say, Breezy in Eldo. Way different. There are enough features on the face for your left foot, so you don't have to jam the entire way up. And when you're at the end, you've worked and grunted enough that you certainly feel you've accomplished something. I'd do it again.

I would agree that this is solid 5.6. I did this as a warm-up for Kim (first time to voo). I found this to be a hell of a workout and had to really grunt my way up it. By far the most fun you can have on the Rat Brain. I used a #4 near the top, but this is not necessary. A #2, #3, and a #1 (at the bottom to protect from a fall into the pit) will see you to the top. Great route! Do Kim while you wait to get on this one! haha.