The streets are becoming empty. The
Agora has been
deserted for hours. As the warm balmy night closes over the city the
house doors are shut fast, to open only for the returning master or his
guests, bidden to dinner. Soon the ways will be almost silent, to be
disturbed, after a proper interval, by the dinner guests returning
homeward. Save for these, the streets will seem those of a city of the
dead: patrolled at rare intervals by the Scythian archers, and also
ranged now and then by cutpurses watching for an unwary stroller, or
miscreant roisterers trolling lewd songs, and pounding on honest men's
doors as they wander from tavern to tavern in search of the lowest
possible pleasures.

We have said very little of eating or drinking during
our visit in Athens, for, truth to tell, the citizens try to get through
the day with about as little interruption for food and drink as
possible. But now, when warehouse and gymnasium alike are left to
darkness, all Athens will break its day of comparative fasting.

Roughly speaking, the Greeks anticipate the latter-day
"Continental" habits in their meal hours. The custom of Germans and of
many Americans in having the heartiest meal at noonday would never
appeal to them. The hearty meal is at night, and no one dreams of doing
any serious work after it. When it is finished, there may be pleasant
discourse or varied amusements, but never real business; and even if
there are guests, the average dinner party breaks up early. Early to bed
and early to rise, would be a maxim indorsed by the Athenians.

Promptly upon rising, our good citizen has devoured a
few morsels of bread sopped in undiluted wine; that has been to him what
"coffee and rolls" will be to the Frenchmen,—enough to carry him through
the morning business, until near to noon he will demand something more
satisfying. He then visits home long enough to partake of a substantial
déjeuner ("ariston," first breakfast = "akratisma"). He has one or two
hot dishes—one may suspect usually warmed over from last night's
dinner—and partakes of some more wine. This "ariston" will be about all
he will require until the chief meal of the day—the regular dinner
("deïpnon") which would follow sunset.