Enter the city of Hoo-chow-foo — Method of managing Chinese
crowds — Description of the city — Richness of the shops — Fans and silks —
Rich dresses of the people — Raw silk and hongs — Flowered crapes — Chinese
play and audience — How I perform my part! — Leave the city — Charming scenes
in the country Thrown silk — Silk villages and their inhabitants — Temple of
Wan-shew-si and its priests — Taou-chang-shan pagoda — Glorious views from the pagoda
hill.

ON the 17th of June I reached the city of
Hoo-chow-foo — the City of the Lakes and the capital of the principal
silk-country of China. According to Chinese accounts, this city is about six
miles in circumference, and contains about a hundred thousand families. Both of
these statements are probably exaggerated, as the walls did not appear to me to
be more than three, or at most four, miles round. As I was anxious to see
something of the interior of the city, I sent one of my men to procure a sedan-chair,
for the day was excessively warm. The chairmen soon made their appearance, but
as their demands for hire were so exorbitant, I refused to comply with them and
determined to walk — a proceeding which, although not so comfortable, would
enable me to see more of the shops and people.

Entering at the south gate, I proceeded in a
northerly direction, and examined all the principal streets on my way.
Thousands of people followed me as I went along. They were very uproarious, but
good-humoured withal, and appeared delighted with the opportunity of seeing a
"Pak Quei-tze," or white devil — a term by which foreigners are
designated in this civilized part of the world. Although this term was
sometimes used in a tone of contempt or insult, showing that those who used it
fully understood its meaning, yet generally it was not so. Upon one occasion
some friends of mine remonstrated with some of these polite people, and
endeavoured to explain to them that the term was one to which we were not
exactly entitled, and that it was not very agreeable. In reply the Chinese
expressed surprise and regret for having used the term and thus given offence;
but innocently asked if we were not white devils; and if not, what we were, and
by what name they should call us!

Alone as I now was, and surrounded by thousands of
Chinese in one of their inland cities, it was absolutely necessary to keep my
temper under the most complete control. In circumstances of this kind, if one
laughs and jokes with the crowd, and takes everything in good part, all will
generally go well, for the Chinese are upon the whole good-humoured and polite;
but if he by any chance loses his temper, he will most certainly get the worst
of it, and most likely will be .hooted and pelted with stones. I had had some
experience in the management of Chinese crowds, and therefore continued to be
in the sweetest possible frame of mind in the midst of the thousands who
followed me through the city as if I had been a wild animal or "white
devil" indeed.

As I threaded my way slowly along, in addition to the
dense crowds that followed and preceded me, every window and doorway was
crowded with curious-looking faces all anxious to get a view of the foreigner.
It was curious to mark the varied expression in the different countenances. In
some there was a look of contempt, in others wonder was strongly depicted; but
in the vast majority there was wonder mingled with fear, as if I was in reality
a being from another world. Keeping onward in a northerly direction, and diverging
now and then to the right or left, according as an object of interest met my
eye, I arrived at last at the north gate of the city. Here I ascended the
ramparts in order to get a good view. Outside the walls I observed a large
dense suburb, with a pretty pagoda and a canal leading through it in the
direction of the T'ai-hu lake. Throwing my eyes over the city, the roofs of the
houses seemed nearly all of the same height; indeed this is a striking
characteristic of all Chinese towns which I have visited. One rarely sees any
difference in the height of the houses except when a temple, a pagoda, or a
watch-tower disturbs the monotony of the view. I believe the Chinese have a
strong prejudice against one house being raised higher than the others.

I now walked round the ramparts from the north to the
east gate, and then crossed the town from east to west in the same leisurely
way I had done from south to north. A fine broad stream, or rather canal,
crosses the city from south to north, and forms the chief highway for the
boat-traffic, for boats are the carriages in this part of China and canals are
the highways. This stream was crowded with boats of all sizes; some were
discharging goods and passengers at the jetties on its banks, while others were
hurrying onward deeply laden with goods and passengers for other parts of the
country.

The city near the south gate by which I entered had
rather a poor appearance, but the centre, and particularly the northern side,
appeared rich and densely populated. Many of the shops were crowded with
articles of great beauty and value. The fronts of Chinese shops are not shut up
as ours are; the interior is fully exposed to passersby, so that I got an
excellent view of their contents without the inconvenience of going inside. The
silk fans struck me as being more gorgeous and handsome than any I had seen in
other towns. Manufactured crapes and silks were also plentiful, and judging
from the dresses of the people of both sexes, these goods must be in great
demand. I have visited many Chinese towns, and I must say I never saw the
people as a whole better dressed than those of Hoo-chow. Every person I met
above the common working coolie was dressed in silks or crape, and even the
coolies have at least one silk dress for holyday wear.

Although the fans and silks of Hoo-chow struck me
particularly when walking through the town, it abounds also in all kinds of
articles in common use amongst the people. Embroidered shoes, hats, caps,
umbrellas, tobacco-pipes made of bamboo and nicely painted, porcelain of all
kinds, and indeed every conceivable article in demand amongst the natives.

But in Hoo-chow, as at Nant-sin, the great trade of
the place is in raw silk. Near the north gate many large hongs were pointed out
to me where this trade is carried on most extensively. Here the silk is sorted,
stowed, and made up into parcels, which are afterwards despatched to Shanghae,
and offered for sale to foreign merchants. It is estimated that about
four-fifths of the silk produced in this district is exported to Europe and
America; but considering the large quantity consumed by the people themselves,
I doubt if the proportion exported is so large.

The greater part of the silks and crapes used in this
part of China are manufactured in the adjoining towns of Soo-chow and
Hang-chow. Flowered crape, however, a very beautiful production, is made in
Hoo-chow. The process of manufacture is thus described by the Rev. Mr. Edkins
in the 'North China Herald:' —

"Two men were engaged at a loom in a cottage on
the side of a stream. One sat at the end of the loom moving five pedals, and
directing the shuttle and all that needed to be done with the threads that lay
horizontal on the frame. The other was perched overhead to superintend the
pattern. This he did by means of vertical threads tied up in bundles, a large
number of which, distributed transversely through the threads of the horizontal
frame beneath him, were at his disposal. These he raised according to the
requirement of the pattern, and thus caused that elevation in the threads on
the frame below that constituted the flowered part of the piece."

Like their countrymen all over China, the Hoo-chow
people are fond of the drama. During my visit to the city a fine play was going
on in one of the temples near the north gate. I had many pressing invitations,
from individuals in the crowd who were following me, to go and see the play.
But having seen many of these exhibitions on former occasions, I had no wish to
see this one, more particularly as I knew well that all the rabble in the town
are generally collected about such places. My companions, however, rather
outwitted me, and gained their point before I was aware of it. Having a kind of
mania for collecting ancient works of Chinese art, such as porcelain vases,
bronzes, enamels, and such things, I had been making many enquiries regarding
them as we went along, and had already made several purchases of considerable
interest. I was now told by a person in the crowd that he would take me to an
old curiosity-shop hard by, where I would see some fine things such as I
wanted. Without suspecting anything, I desired him to lead the way, and I
followed him. To my surprise, and I must confess to my amusement too, for I was
in a capital humour, I found myself in a few minutes ushered into the temple
square, where two or three thousand heads were gaping intently up to a platform
covered with actors, who were in the midst of what appeared to be a most
interesting melodrama, judging from the effect it had upon the audience. I saw
at once I had been duped, and, looking for my guide and conductor, found that
he had disappeared, no doubt fully satisfied with the part he had played. My
part was now to enjoy the joke and take it in good part, which I did not fail
to do. I was now pressed on all hands for my opinion of the merit of the
performance, which I declared was inimitable. Nor was there any flattery
intended in this expression of opinion, for I doubt much if such a performance
could have been got up out of the Celestial Empire.

It was some time before a large portion of the crowd
found out that a foreigner was amongst them, so intent were they upon the
performance, and longer still before the eyes of the actors saw me. By degrees,
however, the news spread, and all eyes were turned from the stage to where I
was standing. At first the actors seemed surprised at the want of that
attention to which they had been accustomed, then they discovered the cause,
and, if possible, were more astonished than their audience. In vain the
prompter and leader of the band urged them to go on; their "occupation was
gone" until the greater attraction was removed. Prudence now suggested
that, having thus come unexpectedly upon the scene and played my part, it would
be as well to withdraw while there was time. I now bowed very politely to the
most respectable of the people who were standing near me, and expressed my
delight and thanks for what I had seen. I then edged quietly out of the crowd,
a few of whom followed me, while the greater part remained to enjoy the rest of
the performance, which I have no doubt was concluded in a most satisfactory
manner.

The day was now far advanced, and as I had been
surrounded by noisy, although good-humoured, crowds since the morning, I was
excessively tired. I therefore made the best of my way back to the southern
suburbs, where I had left my boat in a retired creek surrounded on all sides by
mulberry-trees. But even here I could not get the quiet I wished for. Numbers
followed me to where my boat was moored, and pestered me with all sorts of
questions. It was generally believed by them that I had come from Shanghae for
the sole purpose of buying silk, nor could my assurances to the contrary
convince them they were mistaken.

In order to get rid of inquisitive crowds I now gave
orders to my boatmen to leave our moorings and go on to the southwards; but did
not tell them to what point we were bound. By this means the crowds were quite
puzzled, and returned to their homes inside the city. In passing under one of
the bridges here, and often both before and after this when in the same
position, the head boatman warned us not to speak; for, said he, "if you
do so, something evil will happen to us afterwards." There is a
superstition amongst them, to the effect that those who speak while passing
under a bridge will be punished by being involved in a quarrel.

After passing out of the creek I found myself on a
broad and beautiful canal which leads to the southwards in the direction of
Hang-chow-foo. As it was my intention to remain for some days in the vicinity
of Hoo-chow, we soon found a small creek on the east side of this canal, which
led up to the bottom of a richly-wooded hill. Having sculled the boat up there,
we made her fast to the grassy bank of the creek, and, while dinner was getting
ready, I went on shore.

It was a lovely evening — the 18th of June — the sun
was just setting behind the high mountain-ranges to the westward, and although
the day had been oppressively warm, the air was now comparatively cool and
enjoyable. I was in the midst of most charming scenery, and although only about
two miles distant from a crowded and bustling city, everything was perfectly
quiet and still. Overhead the rooks were seen returning home for the day, and
here and there on a solitary bush or in a grove of trees the songsters of the
woods were singing their last and evening song of praise. Mulberry-trees, with
their large rich green leaves, were observed in all directions, and the
plantations extended all over the low country and up to the foot of the hills.
The hills here were low and isolated, and appeared as if they had been thrown
out as guards between the vast plain, which extends eastwards to the sea, and
the mountains of the west. For the most part they were covered with natural
forests and brushwood, and did not appear to have ever been under cultivation.
In some parts their sides were steep — almost perpendicular — while in others
the slope was gentle from their base to the summit. Here and there some
rugged-looking granite rocks reared their heads above the trees, and were
particularly striking.

Looking to the hills, there all was nature pure and
unadorned, just as it had come from the hands of the Creator; but when the eye
rested on the cultivated plain, on the rich mulberry-plantations, on the clear
and beautiful canals studded with white sails, the contrast was equally
striking, and told a tale of a teeming population, of wealth and industry.

I remained for three days amongst these hills, and
employed myself in examining their natural productions, and in making
entomological collections. In some grassy glades in the woods I frequently came
upon little bands of natives engaged in making thrown silk. A long, narrow
framework of bamboo of considerable length was constructed, and over this the
threads were laid in the state in which they came from the reel. At the end of
the frame collections of these threads were attached to a number of round brass
balls about the size of marbles. A rapid motion was communicated to the balls
by a smart stroke between the palms of the hands. The workmen went along the
line of balls with the quickness of lightning, striking one after the other and
keeping the whole in motion at the same time, until the process of twisting the
silk was completed.

The little silk-villages at the base of these hills
were all visited by me at this time, and although the natives were much
surprised at the presence of a foreigner amongst them, yet generally they were
polite and hospitable. The same features of wealth and comfort which I had
already remarked in other parts of the silk-country were apparent here. The
people were well dressed, had good substantial houses to live in, and, judging
from their appearance, they were well fed. Nearly all the respectable
farm-houses were surrounded with high walls. In addition to keeping their
families as private as possible, the object of having the houses constructed in
this way was probably for safety to their property, which is often very
valuable during the silk season. I am not aware that these districts are much
infested with thieves, but the respectable Chinese country farmer is generally
very timid in his nature, and would much rather incur considerable expense in
making his house secure than run any risk of having it plundered, or to be
obliged to defend it.

When I had completed my examination of this part of
the country, and made some interesting entomological collections, I bade adieu
to the hospitable villagers. My object was now the pagoda I had seen in the
distance when nearing Hoo-chow, with the large tree growing by its side, both
together forming the most striking landmark in this part of China. It was only
two or three miles west from where I had been sojourning for the last few days,
and about two miles from the south gate of the city. By means of canals and
small creeks I was enabled to get my boat nearly to the foot of the hill on
which the pagoda stands. It being late in the evening when we arrived there, I
slept near a small village at the head of the creek, and made arrangements to
ascend the hill early next morning.

Some time before daybreak my servant Tung-a brought
me a cup of tea, which I drank and then made preparations for our journey. It
seemed we had anchored at the place to which worshippers come in their boats
when they are going to the temple and pagoda. We found an excellent paved road
leading up to the monastery of Wan-sheu-si, which is situated in a romantic
hollow, a littlebelow the hill on
whose summit the pagoda stands. The soil of these hills is sandy and barren,
and contrasts unfavourably with that in the rich plains below. Avenues and
clumps of pines (Pinus sinensis), many of which had no doubt been
planted by the priests, lined the ascent, and gave it a very pretty appearance.
As we ascended by the windings of our mountain-road, we often lost sight of the
plain which we had left, and were surrounded on all sides by hills.

Half-an-hour's walk brought us near the doors of the
monastery of Wan-sheu-si, a large and imposing building, or rather collection
of buildings, founded about a thousand years ago by a certain Fuh-hu-shan-si —
the "Tamer of the Tiger." His picture is still preserved in the
monastery, and represents him seated on a tiger, whose ferocity he had completely
tamed, and who now was content to carry him over hill and dale and obey his
commands!

The priests here — about thirty in number — received
me with great ceremony and kindness, and ordered tea and cakes to be set before
me. I was also taken to see two hermits who were undergoing voluntary solitary
confinement for a period of three years. One of them had been nearly two years
shut up in his cell, and consequently had another year to remain there before
he could come out again and mix with the world.

After partaking of the tea which the good priests had
kindly set before me — and very refreshing it was after my morning walk — I
proceeded up the hill towards the pagoda. Here I was received by a solitary
priest and a little boy who seemed his servant. The priest took me into a small
room in which was a bed, a table, and a few books — all he possessed in the
world, so he told me. He informed me, in answer to my questions, that the
pagoda was called Taou-chang-shantat. It appeared to be ancient, for the
adjoining temple, which had probably been built about the same period, was now
in a very ruinous condition. Being curious to know what the tree was which,
with the pagoda, formed such a striking sight when seen from a distance, I paid
it a visit and found it was the maidenhair-tree (Salisburia
adiantifolia).

If the pagoda and maidenhair-tree were striking from
a distance, the view from the top of the hill where they stood was equally so,
and of quite a different character. The bustling city of Hoochow-foo, with its
walls, rampart, and broad and beautiful canals lay at my feet. Looking eastward
the country was perfectly flat as far as the eye could reach — it is one vast
rich and fertile mulberry- garden. On the west the prospect was bounded by a
long range of mountains, very irregular in height, form, and general outline,
and some of them very high. The T'ai-hu lake with its islands — the
Tung-ting-shans — were seen to the north, and far away on the horizon to the
southeast the little hills near Chapoo are just visible on a clear day.

I
gazed long with rapture upon the wonderful scene which lay beneath and around
me. Many views which I have had both before and since that time, when
travelling in the Himalayas, have been perhaps more grand and sublime, owing to
the stupendous height of these mountains, but as a view of marvellous richness
and loveliness that from the top of Taou-chang-shan stands unrivalled.