That's like... 3 buttons I need to press to play some of the consoles!

There's a way to make a point without being a douchebag, and you haven't found it. We're still not wasting our time with your suggestions on power switches, just let it go already.

You spent a month praising this KVM's potential and your review is "so far so good"? Not likely to make anyone run out to buy one.

And there is a way to not be a dumbass but you haven't found that yet either. Also I don't care what you do, I've just given the best information possible to anyone that will listen. And I'm not done testing the switch yet. I'm going to invest in a time sleuth and ect to give it a proper rundown.

That's like... 3 buttons I need to press to play some of the consoles!

There's a way to make a point without being a douchebag, and you haven't found it. We're still not wasting our time with your suggestions on power switches, just let it go already.

You spent a month praising this KVM's potential and your review is "so far so good"? Not likely to make anyone run out to buy one.

And there is a way to not be a dumbass but you haven't found that yet either. Also I don't care what you do, I've just given the best information possible to anyone that will listen. And I'm not done testing the switch yet. I'm going to invest in a time sleuth and ect to give it a proper rundown.

At the cost of longer black screen transitions when resolution changes.

Has there been any experimenting with this? I'm curious how much delay is added the more convoluted a setup becomes. Perhaps some old discussions where they measure it? I'm having a hard time finding anything on Google besides scattered warnings.

At the cost of longer black screen transitions when resolution changes.

Has there been any experimenting with this? I'm curious how much delay is added the more convoluted a setup becomes. Perhaps some old discussions where they measure it? I'm having a hard time finding anything on Google besides scattered warnings.

It's however long each device takes to resynchronize it's clock. Which in my experience is a little less than a second for most devices.

One of my posts in this thread detailed how I could shave a couple seconds off my total resync time by using fewer switches in serial.

-Does it auto switch to whatever device is on automatically? -Does it auto switch automatically to a second device if you turn it on while a first device is also on? Does it auto switch back to the 1st device if you turn off the 2nd one?-How many seconds do you have to wait between switching signals?-If you have the switch on and you lose power, does it turn back on automatically when you get power back?-I heard you can only turn the switch on/off with the controller. If I ever lose the controller, does unplugging it work the same? I won't damage anything?

It always switches to the newest source that supplies 5v down the HDMI cable. Which most devices do as they turn on. But some devices also do this in standby mode. Not very many though.

If there are 2 devices sending a signal and the active one stops. The switch falls back to the other.

You don't *need* the remote to operate the unit. I toss all my HDMI switcher remotes in a bin and never use them.

How long you have to wait between switching signals is a bit of a complex topic. If you're just switching resolution on the same active device. I've found that most HDMI switches take a little less than a second to lock on to the signal again and forward the picture. But then whatever other devices are in the chain also need to resync after that. So your AV receiver might add another second, and your TV another on top of that.

Switching between active devices is a bit trickier because many devices still send 5v down the cable even if they're not outputting a valid signal. So if it's auto switching because a device is powering up or down, it could be many seconds based on device behavior.

It always switches to the newest source that supplies 5v down the HDMI cable. Which most devices do as they turn on. But some devices also do this in standby mode. Not very many though.

If there are 2 devices sending a signal and the active one stops. The switch falls back to the other.

You don't *need* the remote to operate the unit. I toss all my HDMI switcher remotes in a bin and never use them.

How long you have to wait between switching signals is a bit of a complex topic. If you're just switching resolution on the same active device. I've found that most HDMI switches take a little less than a second to lock on to the signal again and forward the picture. But then whatever other devices are in the chain also need to resync after that. So your AV receiver might add another second, and your TV another on top of that.

Switching between active devices is a bit trickier because many devices still send 5v down the cable even if they're not outputting a valid signal. So if it's auto switching because a device is powering up or down, it could be many seconds based on device behavior.

Gaming consoles connected to the Switch -> Switch connected to a Receiver -> Receiver connected to the TV through ARC.

I'm only going to be switching between consoles, not between resolutions. I will always power off a console before turning on another one. None of the consoles have stand-by mode, so it shouldn't interfere with auto switching.

I read that you don't really need to plug this device to a power source? You only need to plug it in if you want it to scan the inputs or something.

Question about the SGEYR 4K@60Hz 5x1 HDMI Switch....-Does it auto switch automatically to a second device if you turn it on while a first device is also on? Does it auto switch back to the 1st device if you turn off the 2nd one?

Like the Vorke HD41pro, the SGEYR 4K@60 (and the 4K@30 ones) will fall back to the next sequentially-numbered device. For example, if you have active devices on inputs 1 and 3, with input 1 active, and you connect something to input 2, it will switch to input 2, as expected; however, if you then disconnect input 2, it will auto-switch to input 3, not back to input 1.

If you've only got two active devices, it'll effectively switch back to the previous one like DirkSwizzler said.

Question about the SGEYR 4K@60Hz 5x1 HDMI Switch....-Does it auto switch automatically to a second device if you turn it on while a first device is also on? Does it auto switch back to the 1st device if you turn off the 2nd one?

Like the Vorke HD41pro, the SGEYR 4K@60 (and the 4K@30 ones) will fall back to the next sequentially-numbered device. For example, if you have active devices on inputs 1 and 3, with input 1 active, and you connect something to input 2, it will switch to input 2, as expected; however, if you then disconnect input 2, it will auto-switch to input 3, not back to input 1.

If you've only got two active devices, it'll effectively switch back to the previous one like DirkSwizzler said.

Alrighty, thanks. I always power off each device, so that won't be a problem.

Thanks for this thread, wasn't expecting Shmupsforum to be the place where I'd find replacements for my expensive-ass HDfury AVR Key (audio extractor) that suddenly started having constant dropouts, or the mechanical 4K HDMI switch from Australia that suddenly stopped working with certain 1080p devices on my 4K monitor (it's mechanical, why the hell doesn't it work with just some devices!?), but life can occasionally have pleasant surprises I guess.

Just had my TESmart 16x1 HDMI KVM 4k60hz switch arrive today and spent the day installing it into my rackmount setup and testing it out. So far so good. Man it sure is difficult always reaching to the power switches and then pressing the video switches, hell 6 of my consoles are component so I have to press ossc on the hdmi switch and then press the console on the extron switch! That's like... 3 buttons I need to press to play some of the consoles! Pretty wild but on the bright side I have 0 autoswitching issues, surge protection, and don't waste any power so I guess I'll have to live with all that extra effort.

(I can't wait for 2 of my analogue consoles to get replaced by fpga cores or get hdmi mods so I can get a 1u 4 port extron switcher and save 2u more of rackmount slots)

Any more experience with the KVM as a switch? I'm actually looking to upgrade my VGA KVM to HDMI and use it as a KVM, and this would fit the bill. An expensive bill, but still!

Originally I didn't want this because my PC was hooked up to my gaming rack while being the only thing not depending on the rack being powered. And whenever I turned it on, it would power a significant chunk of my HDMI chain just from my video card. And I was unsure if that was adding strain to my video card.

However. If we take that property and apply it just to devices that depend on rack power. My concern about strain is significantly reduced because I know the HDMI chain is already powered.

So, as an experiment. I unplugged DC power from my chained SGEYR switch that had older consoles on it. And removed my always-on OSSC from feeding into it. This caused the unit to remain off when none of those consoles were on. And to turn on when one of the consoles turned on. It then fed to my head switch which was a powered sgeyr 5x1.

I then hooked my always-on OSSC directly to the head 5x1.

When I powered on the rack, the OSSC showed up as expected.When I powered up one of the consoles hooked up to the secondary switch. That secondary switch powered up, selected the console correctly, and signalled the main switch to listen to the chained switch.When I powered down the consoles, the secondary switch powered off, and the main switch went back to the OSSC. SUCCESS!!!!This setup worked with almost all of my consoles. So it's not bulletproof. But it worked with enough to be very useful.

Consoles that worked feedinginto the UNPOWERED secondary:Launch model PS3 fat.XBox 360 (unsure the model, one of the somewhat later revisions that didn't RROD as much)Wii UNintendo Switch using the OEM dock hardware (transplanted into a non-sandwich dock)XBox One X

What didn't work:PS4 Pro. It looks like it powers off the HDMI port when switching resolution. So the switch looked like it was boot looping over and over.

I'll have to try more consoles later. My assumption is the PS4 HDMI output was needlessly overcomplicated and will probably be the only console that doesn't work.

For now I just need to keep my PS4 Pro hooked up to the head switch. And with the star configuration for 5 consoles. I can move my OSSC up to the head switch to avoid a hop there on resolution change. So I still have 2 more ports that can potentially be star configured if necessary.

Splitters:SGEYR HDMI Cable Splitter 1 in 4 Out HDMI 2.0 Distribution Box HDMI Splitter Amp Supports 4K@60Hz HDR Full Ultra HD 1080P and 3D Compatible with XboxThe big negative with this one is I can't figure out the EDID management. It has an EDID button. But the manual lists four states in binary notation making me think it was meant to have dip switches. I can't find any data on how it's supposed to translate to a single button. I asked a question about it on the Amazon listing and got no response. As far as I can tell the button does not rotate modes.The default EDID was pretty limited and annoying. Only supported YUV420 for HDR. And only apparently supported stereo audio.I *think* it worked fine with OSSC. But I didn't commit that to notes. It's definitely not good for 4K consoles.

Matrix Devices:I finally tried a matrix device to reduce hops. I'm generally hesitant to try matrices because of the associated cost. And, in general, most HDMI devices don't work as well as I need them to.

Apologies if this has already been mentioned, but do the SGEYR HDMI switchers work well when multiple are daisy chained together? If so is there a recommended short HDMI cable for connecting multiple units? Since the HDMI output port is on the side I have been trying to find a decent angled short HDMI cable for interconnecting two units.

Also, i'm guessing that if I powered the first unit with the +5V DC barrel connector, that should then pass on the +5V through the HDMI cable to each subsequent switch, meaning I should only need to supply power to the first switch in the chain, correct? Or am I best getting a DC barrel splitter and supplying them each with power individually?

I have not tried that Ugreen splitter. It appears that it might downgrade video to the least common denominator which is not a feature I want for 2 reasons...1. It usually means that a loss of sync on any sink will renegotiate sync for all the sinks.2. I generally want to a for highest quality output and limit either at the source or just know that some displays won't work with some sources.Thanks for the link though!

As an aside. Every piece of equipment I've tried always "looks good on paper"

Small update on the gofanco splitter trying to split ps4 pro 4k60 hdr with 7.1 audio. I swapped around my other equipment a bit. Namely putting my Vorke HD41 at the head of my switch chain and it appears to be a more normal resync time.

So there might be a subtle issue with the SGEYR units feeding into some splitters. Which is funny because the SGEYR's appeared to be better than the HD41 feeding into an HDFury Vertex 2.

It's great with all the detailed text. So many units tested here. I feel this needs an google excel(calc?) link with simplified visuals. Like tabs in Excel document for splitter, switch, hdmi cable, tv and capturecard.Then per row of individual equipment a colour indicating the compatibility.Perhaps sorted by most compatible stuff in the top aswell.

Have you noticed occasional resolution drops with the SGEYR ? My unit seems to reverts to 1080p sometimes when the Chromecast Ultra (a 4K device) is on screen. I see a quick black screen and then it's on 1080p. Unplug cables and 2160p is back.

Have you noticed occasional resolution drops with the SGEYR ? My unit seems to reverts to 1080p sometimes when the Chromecast Ultra (a 4K device) is on screen. I see a quick black screen and then it's on 1080p. Unplug cables and 2160p is back.

I plugged in the SGEYR 5x1 to my main television watching setup. And reproduced this after approximately 1 week. And it was remedied by unplugging hdmi from my always-on Tivo and plugging it back in. Thanks very much for the report!

This data has been reflected in the main post. I still recommend them for star chaining. Or for setups that fully power down when you're not gaming. A week seems like a plenty long window for a single gaming session.

I see. I read your update on the first post. It could make sense as the Chromecast is the only device plugged to the switch that's always on. Maybe the switch just gets tired after a bit.

I also noticed having some trouble with non-4K devices, like my Switch and a Blu-ray player I plugged into it while doing some troubleshooting. Both devices were definitly sending something to the Switch but I couldn't get a picture. Not a huge problem as I decided to move non-4K stuff to a plain 1080p switch but I though I would highlight this too.

I see. I read your update on the first post. It could make sense as the Chromecast is the only device plugged to the switch that's always on. Maybe the switch just gets tired after a bit.

I also noticed having some trouble with non-4K devices, like my Switch and a Blu-ray player I plugged into it while doing some troubleshooting. Both devices were definitly sending something to the Switch but I couldn't get a picture. Not a huge problem as I decided to move non-4K stuff to a plain 1080p switch but I though I would highlight this too.

For lack of better terminology. Yeah, it does appear to just get tired of 4K after a bit. Super weird. I don't think it's overheating because I had mine in a pretty stable climate, on a shelf with good airflow, with a consistent workload of idling on a tivo menu with the tv off.

Some devices go to sleep instead of turning off. And usually have options around such features. I'm definitely star chaining my nintendo switch. So that should be configurable.

My test case was a Super NT on latest jailbreak firmware (6.9) and mega sg on latest jailbreak firmware (7.7). I would just boot to the main menu of the console where you can choose to run the cartridge or adjust settings.

Now you need to add a 2x1 mechanical switch to each console for switching between digital and analog output. I wonder if it will further add compatability problems.

I'm kind of annoyed they make it so complicated to switch between digital and analog output. Even sharing the dac between consoles is overly complicated. It's so easy on the Nt Mini. There is so much wasted potential here.

HDMI Cops will come to our houses and beat us to death with bundles of cables

Without talking about removing it with a special device I can say most modern consoles have an option to disable that in software but it disables movie streaming options as a result only while the remove hdcp option is enabled.

HDMI Cops will come to our houses and beat us to death with bundles of cables

Without talking about removing it with a special device I can say most modern consoles have an option to disable that in software but it disables movie streaming options as a result only while the remove hdcp option is enabled.

I bought one off amazon that works a treat. Still not clear whether it's allowed to discuss though