Question for the old guys like me

So I got the itch to mod an old spyder once again. I have an old Spyder AMG that im bringing up to speed a little bit. I have an abundance of spyder parts and what parts I didn't have I bought stupid cheap on ebay. So far ive done all the simple upgrades like grips, feedneck, trigger and barrel. However when I got to the board I realized I sold my old t board and wanted something more up to date. A buddy gave me a Tadao VS board and I wanted to mod it to work in my AMG. I know its possible because I used to have one that someone had converted to fit an old circa 2002 eframe. I also remember people talking about it. XyXll had talked about it when he was still selling his hall fx kits, which I wish I had never sold.

So my question is does anyone remember how to wire this Tadao VS board for an older spyder EFrame?

So far I know I need to drill the frame for a new hole to fit the on button. no big deal there. I also know I don't need the 3 wires from the original on off switch anymore because the board it turned on by a button now. So now all I have is the brown and black wire from the switch and the plugs for the battery and the solenoid plugged in. Right now the board wont turn on. It fires once when I try to power the board on but the led wont stay lit up. Do I need to have a 9.6v rechargeable battery or can I at least get it running with a regular 9v? Any help would be appreciated.

1st to address the board issue. I drop that project myself because the micro switch plug was different. IT screws in, you don't NEED the top switch since its for the eyes primarly. I would check the manual first before snapping or cutting that off. You probably could make something to click it when your messing with modes anyway. You can order a VS/RS/ or newer microswitch to get the plug and wiring from it and solder it your old (which I imagine you have a lighter switch) If you got a hall fx you wanted to use, I believe you had to run power off the board itself, but I don't have that kit so IDK?

Somehow find a way to get a reg on that thing. there was an adapter. Short supply good luck finding it. A lot of people run a bottomline reg, palmers, VS2/VS3, honestly Whatever old school one still floating around.

Then get a hold of a DELRIN bolt with a couple orings and your golden.

Valve wise you have option, pick up anything cheap these days. I got an AKA in my BLM. You could convert to a balance valve, go old school with a rocket.

Hey ferret Long time. You probably don't remember me. I have decided forgo the old tried and true aka route since I sold all my millys along with all my aka parts. But I do have quite a bit of VS2 parts I got really cheap on ebay. I have the VS2 balance valve , bolt and striker. I also have 2k2 Timmy eye covers and the Tadao board eyes. I may try the vs2 switch route of I can't sort this out. I have already modded my friends AMG to use the balance valve and it was easy. I replaced the pin in the body with two set screws after i tapped the existing holes. This thing is going to be a nasty hybrid. I'll try to get prelim pics up for now. My buddy still has the reg adaptor. As a fool I sold the two I had from ACP long ago. With other goodies like my alamo city Delrin striker. I know I sold parts of great spyder history. All hindsight now. My plan to to buy a ninja tank with adjustable reg.

I cut and sanded the back and installed the VS parts. Then tapped the valve body pin stop holes and put set screws in. If you look close you can see them. They are black as opposed to the silver of the pin that's normally there stock.

Nice to see you guys are still around. Wish I had gotten into amgs but never did.

:waving: I had this feeling you might be lurking! drop by the OT if your ever bored or want to share a new project.

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkspidie8419

The gun in question as it is right now. I love it the way it is but want to efficiency of the balance valve.

oh nonsense. Put a new valve in it, it could use the update. Personally I would throw the newer Eko valve just to do it, but the balance valve is probably my favorite to shoot. I had my VS2 shooting like butter down into the low 200psi on HPA, although back then I had tuned out on CO2 just cause everyone said you shouldn't it. Loved it.

I think I may just try to find a good deal on a virtue board. Plug and play. The Tadao board powers up and changes modes until I plug the switch in. I contacted f2gchase about how he did his conversion with the Tadao board but didn't remember ad was too lazy to pull out the gun and check it out.

I got the virtue board on eBay for $24 but the guy I bought it from said the eyes are broken. we will see. this should solve my problem. The stock board just isn't quite fast enough I can outshoot it on semi

Have you tried using a real loader like a rotor? Thats always my first quesiton with chops. I've found this factors into breaks the most. Shake and break and cheap loaders cause more breaks than their worth for electric markers.

Either way yeah, putting in eyes is basically drilling out the hole.

-Drill the hole, center of the breach and as low as possible without drilling into the bottom part of the tube. Too high, low, or crooked and you've wasted an amg body. For this reason its advisable to at least use a decent drill press or have someone do this part for you. There used to be a template, if you find it make sure to size it for print right or you'll drill the wrong spots. Most people I know that have drill them just eyeballed it on a drill press, but they were machinist of sorts.

-Mock up your eye covers and figure out where your holes need to be, drill and tap those holes. Figure out where your new detents go as there is a high chance the covers are a little different. 2k2/2k5 timmy covers were the main choice and detents were glued in to prevent them from falling out.

-The frame needs to be moddified or you will just pinch and break the wires between the tube and triggerframe. Most people cut/mill channels along the inside to run the wires safely to the board. Some use 1 larger and some run them on both sides.

I only use my rotor unless I'm shooting my phantom I use a sport shot. As far as the hole for the eye cover screw goes. You need to drill the hole between the top and bottom tube where all the meat is. I recommend getting a spare AMG body from IIsports off eBay. $10 and you can mod the hell out of it . Then if you mess up you didn't damage your playable amg. I'll will post up the process here soon. Been busy with work, home renovation and my wife and kid.

On a side note I'm selling the Tadao and virtue boards I bought. They are for newer spyder s and I don't know enough about the new ones switch design to get my old switch to fire the board. They turn and and cycle modes but once I olugthe old switch in they don't work. Not a circuitry wiz just basic knowledge here. I need to buy the universal spyder virtue board.

Never tried rotor before on the gun just gravity fed . On the new Proto2011 and etek4 I have a rotor . I really never had breaks in the gun since the fields limit you to semi auto . I figured having eyes like the azodin( sold as a parts gun now) I had would help . That thing was good with a gravity fed , and it saved me a lot of broken paint. Once I put the rotor on , my rate of fire went way up . Was told I was dangerous with that gun and rotor because they were always ducking for cover .

I have a drill press, bandsaw , and 2 axis vice . Was thinking of getting a mill and laithe just to try my hand on making myself parts , but finding a place to store them, well that's another story. I might just keep it as its my first electronic gun and retire it in a wall case .

I don't really lay ropes. Old habits of not using an electro for so long. I snap shoot and lay a few at a time mostly. I love using a loader that can stack the paint and the rotor seems to do it the best. I rarely ever see a break even with my G6R.

Are eyes cool and do they work sure. But if you have trouble with even one break in a shake and bake hopper the paint covers the eyes and you have to force shot or take them off anyway. MY opinion on that I guess.

Also, Might join you back in the quest for a sweet spyder. Never owned an AMG and I think I just found one. I'm kinda digging the full body look so I may just leave it alone but I'm going to go full tilt STBB wise. Hope to see what comes of our projects by summer.

I look forward to seeing wht you come up with. I'll be in a holding pattern for a couple weeks going to visit family in Oregon. Grandma isn't doing well. I'll start adding vs internals when I get back.

The more parts I buy, the more I think we might end up building the exact same gun. I'm trying to throw mine together before easter. Found a balance valve/ministriker and delrin VS bolt for like $30 bucks, so I bought that. I've found a couple AMG's to buy but the guy I'm trying to get it from has a maxflow Bottomline reg. So I'm going to grab that too because you know how hard those reg adapters are to get. (you don't have one you'd be willing to sell? NO! ok sorry for asking)

I have a few parts in my spyder bin I need to brush the dust off that are pretty rare at this point, but they will be cool on the gun. I think I have an original SPPS trigger, a SPPS clamp for the CCM feedneck, and a hall-fx switch that got damaged. If I see a cheap virtue board I'll probably buy it, but whatever I'm going to run it blind anyway with my rotor it should be fine.