Green Thumbs Up: Still time for last-minute planting

Friday

Oct 31, 2008 at 12:01 AMOct 31, 2008 at 5:06 AM

As the glorious days of autumn grow shorter, the gardens, and those who maintain them, prepare for a well-deserved rest. At long last, all but the hardiest plants in my gardens lay limp, black or withered by the coldest temperatures of the season as Mother Nature brought an emphatic conclusion to the growing season during the past week.

Suzanne Mahler

As the glorious days of autumn grow shorter, the gardens, and those who maintain them, prepare for a well-deserved rest. At long last, all but the hardiest plants in my gardens lay limp, black or withered by the coldest temperatures of the season as Mother Nature brought an emphatic conclusion to the growing season during the past week.

Despite some chilly weather and our recent hard killing frost, there is still time to plant and transplant, since soil temperatures drop more gradually than the surrounding air.

As I rake away leaves, chop withered perennial foliage, and remove frosted annuals, I wander from garden to garden, planting bulbs and squeezing perennials into tight spaces unfit for them to prosper, knowing they would most likely have to be moved next season. My lingering collection of trees and shrubs will hopefully find homes in the weeks to come. Nearly all nursery stock, especially trees and shrubs that are potted or balled and burlaped, can be planted at any time throughout the growing season until the ground freezes.

Transplanting woody plants, which usually requires severing some of a plant’s root system, is best performed in spring or fall. Deciduous trees and shrubs (those that drop their leaves) should be relocated after their leaves fall in autumn or before their leaves appear in springtime. Be sure to thoroughly moisten the root systems of potential transplants a day or two in advance of digging to hydrate the plants and help hold soil around their root balls.

Delay until early spring moving soft-barked trees such as dogwood, cherry, birch, willow, Rose-of-Sharon and magnolia. Broad-leafed evergreens, such as rhododendron, andromeda and mountain laurel, as well as roses and hydrangeas, seem to have better survival rates when relocated during the spring season.

Trees and shrubs that will be transplanted in spring will benefit from root pruning at this time of year. Use a spade to slice roots by cutting straight down. This procedure will stimulate formation of a profusion of new fibrous roots, creating a denser root ball that will hold more soil and remain intact when the plants are lifted next spring.

Select a site and prepare a new planting hole before relocating woody plants. Be sure the location is well-drained, especially during the winter months, as soggy soils are a major contributor to plant failures. The depth of the hole should be deep enough to enable you to reset the tree or shrub at the same level as it was previously growing; the width of the hole should be two to three times that of the root ball of the plant to be relocated.

Once you have prepared your new hole, begin the process of transplanting. Create a root ball as large as possible in order to support the upper growth. Use a spade to slice the roots by cutting straight down and then use a shovel to produce a well-rounded ball.

Wrap the root ball with burlap to keep the soil intact around the roots and tie it in place prior to lifting the plant out of the hole; determine its best side and position before placing it in the new hole. Once the tree or shrub has been lowered into its new location, fill halfway with your amended soil, firm the soil, and water. Allow the water to settle and then finish filling the hole.

Be sure that only the roots of trees or shrubs are beneath the soil and that woody stems or the flare at the base of a tree are exposed — planting too deeply is a leading cause of plant fatalities. Firm the soil around the plant and provide a slow, deep watering to reach all roots. Add a layer of mulch over the root system, but do not allow the mulch to touch the woody stems of the plants. Continue to water deeply until the ground freezes if Mother Nature does not provide.

Digging and storing what are termed “summer bulbs” are a priority for the coming week now that hard killing frosts have blackened their leaves. Canna and calla lilies, caladiums, tuberous begonias, dahlias, gladiolas and elephant ears should be lifted before deep freezes damage their fleshy storage systems. Cut back the frost-damaged foliage of tender bulbs to a few inches.

Dahlias that have been cut back should be allowed to cure in the ground for a week or two prior to digging to help the tubers to form strong “eyes” for the following growing season. Lift the bulbs with a digging fork to reduce the risk of injuring the bulbs, which could lead to disease or rot during their winter storage. Once the bulbs are out of the ground, dry them in an airy, dark place without danger of freezing for a few days. Cut off dead foliage and gently brush off dried soil.

Store healthy bulbs and the tuberous clusters of dahlias in plastic produce bags that breathe, or in newspaper-lined porous containers — bushel baskets, wooden crates, or laundry baskets — that have been filled with peat moss, sawdust, perlite or coarse vermiculite. Keep the storage containers in the dark between 40 and 50 degrees and check periodically during the winter months for any evidence of rot. Discard them if they are spoiled.

As the veil of darkness drapes the landscape, the distinctive honks of Canada geese can be heard overhead, while the noisy chatter of a flock of blackbirds roosting in the treetops drifts on the brisk evening breeze — poignant reminders that the winter season lies ahead.

Suzanne Mahler is an avid gardener, photographer and lecturer who has been developing the 1.5-acre property surrounding her home in Hanover, Mass., for more than 30 years. She is a member of two local garden clubs, past President of the New England Daylily Society, an overseer for the Massachusetts Horticultural Society and is employed at two garden centers.

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