YOU may recall Berni Inn, the restaurant chain famous for its prawn cocktails and After Eight mints.

Berners Tavern, a place in Fitzrovia, sounds like it could be related – but is in fact a world apart. This is one of London’s most glamorous destinations. The lofty dining room, hung with more than two hundred gilt-framed paintings, is a jaw-dropping stunner.

A suave sommelier – charming to a fault – even trundles around with a special trolley offering six choices of chilled champagne.

The prices? Well, you can imagine. But the set lunch and pre-theatre menu, served 12-5.30pm on weekdays, is actually something of a bargain.

For less than £25 you can treat yourself to a meal of exquisite quality, served by a blur of waiting staff at the top of their game.

I took a friend, who’s been texting me ever since. (“Still smiling at the memory of the asparagus” reads one.)

The restaurant is within The London Edition Hotel in Berners Street.

The dining room soars 18ft to a ceiling writhing in ornate plasterwork, where two bronze chandeliers take pride of place.

The food is best described as modern British – with plenty of creative twists and cheffy tricks.

That asparagus dish is knock-out: three plump spears, subtly charred, decorated with chervil fronds and the translucent white buds of young wild garlic flowers. A jumble of hazelnuts, mixed in a light vinaigrette, added crunch; a herb-spiked crème fraiche soothed the gentle heat.

Our tuna tartare was more exotic, with a tiny dice of compressed cucumber, an intense soy dressing and dots of pineapple purée.