Interesting. The demo doesn't really show how it works, only that it does, something that has been well established by numerous reports from those who have already used it. Again, being from Missouri, the demo leaves me a bit skeptical about its validity, especially since it is possible the demonstrator could have applied different torque on the trailer for each demo unit. Also, the demo was on static models, not ones moving down the road when sway occurs. Pity I'm not into legos. It wouldn't be hard to replicate the demo. Maybe someday when I don't have something better to do.

The only complaints I've seen about the Hensley-Arrows are the expense (yowch!), and the paint job not holding up and wear on some of the internal components (although they are replaceable). Components and paint can be replaced but it is a chore. A major concern for me (other than price and maintenance) would be the weight; not because I would have to deal with it everytime I hitched up or disconnected (not having to deal with much weight when hitching up or disconnecting is one of the plusses of the hitch) but because the extra weight of the hitch gets added to the tongue weight.

ProPride makes a similar hitch that is slightly less painful to purchase (you have to hold up only two banks instead of three) and seems to be getting better reports on the paint issue.

It looks like it will be a great product, but I have a few concerns as well. I have an Equal-i-zer and like most others with it, I have had issues with the brackets on the tongue shifting due to continued use. The Equail-i-zer brackets are only supposed to weight-supporting and provided some friction. The Anderson hitch sure would be putting a lot of pressure on those brackets, and not downward pressure, it would be constantly trying to pull the bracket forward. I'd think the brackets would need to be welded or cross-bolted through the frame to prvenet them from slipping forward.

Also, does the owner have to adjust the hitch with a socket every time they hook up and disconnect? I'm sure you'd get used to it, but the thought of having a dedicated socket and rachet on hand at all times is a pain. I assume it would also lend itself to subtle differences each and every time you hook up. I'm sure you could mark the threads or something but could you really get it dead on every time? One benefit though is if your load changes, you can easily adjust it for each trip.

Now that was an interesting video. The demo Mr. Anderson gave went a long way to show how easy it would be to unhitch although I wonder how tricky it would be to put the plate the chains anchor to back in place when rehitching. I was concerned about backing off the adjustment on the chains but I wonder if jacking the tongue high enough would make that unnecessary, same as some people have reported doing so on conventional hitches to avoid having to use a cheater to release the latches on the spring bar chains. I'm definitely going to be watching for reports from people who have actually used it.

The really interesting part of the video was the alternate fiver hitch. That would have taken care of one of the four reasons I don't want a fiver (the others being I wouldn't be able to keep my shell, the increased weight, both "tongue" and overall, and the steps inside the fiver): the massive hitch hogging space in the bed of the tow vehicle. Being lighter, the part in the bed would be easier to remove although at seventy pounds, it is still too heavy for me (I wonder if one could use the front of the fiver to hoist it up enough to drive out from under it then lower it to the ground, then drag it under the trailer). For someone as healthy as Mr. Anderson that would be huge, though. I also found the ease that the bed could be made flat again to also be impressive although I would be concerned that dust from carrying a load or few of dirt could jam the inverted ball in its socket (some duct tape could prevent that). I also wonder how drop in and, especially, spray in bed liners would hold up to the pressure of the frame when hitched up. This Missouri born, old broad would have to see some reports from actual users to pass final judgement but it appears this hitch as all the avantages of a gooseneck conversion without the potentially catastrophic stress on the pinbox and frame those conversions are plagued with.

I just received a instruction Manuel and some answers to more questions that we had about this WDH. I'm not able to copy over the PDF for some reason , but if your interested in more info I will be glad to forward it to you if you send me a email address. If you would rather contact the company yourself, they are pretty quick with a reply. Hope this helps.

The hitch looks like it is a unique design of the WD friction hitch that would make it easier to back without disconnecting.

My question after seeing the video would be the ball friction and how it fits into the containment? I have Blue Ox gooseneck ball that pulls out and flips over. Moisture, dirt and rust in and around the ball and containment continually causes problems when I am trying to remove the ball. Once the side of the ball becomes scratched, scarred and marred I wonder if it would operate as smoothly as it does on a new hitch? I just spent several hours trying to get my Blue Ox gooseneck ball out of its containment that is similar except it quarter turns and releases. It is an interesting new concept though.

After reading the manual, IMO this is one of those products that I have to see up-close and installed on a TV/TT, rather than even attempt to breakdown how the physics works and effectiveness of the product under variable TV/TT combinations plus weight considerations.

I'm really interested in seeing the effect of the forced "leveraging" at the tension plate and the collar welded to it, as well as the three associated connecting pins. I also question the ability of the two set screws of holding the frame brackets in place (eliminate movement), and only a single set screw on a "C" channel TT A-frame.

I hope I get an opportunity to see one of these in action this summer, thus taking some of the speculation out of my thinking.

Mine as well buy one Bob and do some real world testing for us. If it works, you`ll have a lighter WD and sway system, and a spare. If not, well, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. You`ll have an interesting report for us anyway.