Naples' most famous centro sociale (a semi-legally occupied space), the Officina is located in an abandoned factory in the mean streets south-east of Stazione Centrale. It hasn't spruced itself up like its sibling set-ups the Brancaleone in Rome or the Leonkavallo in Milan, and remains cold, cavernous and edgy. But there's fun to be had here for anyone who's ever gone in for unusual piercings or walked around with a dog on a bit of a string. Payment is voluntary; around €3 for live music is typical.

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