Tuesday, 28 June 2016

Hello All! I am a bit late posting this and should have done it a few days ago. Really a bit behind schedule at the moment due to crazy work things and that fact that my back is playing up like Billy-O, whoever he is. Believe me I feel sorry for him. Plus, I had no one to pin me or to take photos so that is not helping. I only got Sprogzilla to take these pics after much moaning and it ended up in a shouting match. Joy! In my last post I had traced out my pattern pieces, added the seam allowances, and was ready to cut out my fabric. Okay, well maybe not cut out right away as I am making a toile (pronounced Twaaaalh) first.

A toile is just a mock up of your garment which is usually made up in an inexpensive fabric like calico to help finesse the style and fit. This is a really good idea for just about anything that you sew but it is especially important for a corset where the fit will make or break just how comfortable (and wearable) your final garment is.

A few years ago I bought a whole roll of white herringbone corset coutil from eBay. The outer bit got a bit grubby during moving so it is no loss to sacrifice it to make a mock-up. I used a 12-inch (30cm) strip across the width of the fabric and this was just enough to fit in all the pieces with a bit of jiggery-pokery and shuffling the pieces around.

Before I break the internet with people telling me that this is not the best way to make a mock-up, I know. I drew on this with biro so think of this as a first draft. No boning, waist tape, busk or grommets in this version. No fabric strip in the back so that I could pin out 2-inches either. I was just checking that it went around me and that the length was okay for my body shape.

I knew that this pattern would not be ideal for me straight out of the box what with me being so short-waisted (plus I cheated and measured it first), so I will take this toile apart and use the pieces as a pattern for my toile version 2. I am fitting this using an iterative process to show the typical changes that you might have to do if you make up this pattern. When I am making a corset for someone I might need three fittings and it is a lot harder to fit yourself so if it is not right first time then don't worry.

The length was not too bad below the waist. I tried sitting down in it to make sure that I could without it digging in anywhere but will probably add an extra inch on the length to help cover up the chub and so that I can gently shape the bottom edge as I prefer this to it being straight across.

Anyway, I had enough of fitting at the weekend, even trying it on it was too sore let alone pinning. I am not sure that mine looks like the ones on the Sew Curvy website and I think that I am going to increase the centre front seam allowance and maybe let out the side seam again. Mine just looks too broad at the front, a bit like me. :) I know that the end result will be worth the effort.

Corset Toile Version 2 coming up soon!

Do you have corset fitting woes or have you found a pattern/size that fits straight out of the packet? Got a favourite pattern? I would love to hear about it.

Thanks Marike, dyed fabric sounds amazing. I love dyeing fabric. What sort is it and what did you dye it with? Do you know my painkiller-addled brain didn't even think about posting how to measure yourself properly and how to make a lot of flat pattern adjustments first. Probably as the pattern just gives "bust, waist, hip" measurements. It is quite a time - hog making a corset isn't it?. Xx

I haven't been able to find coutil here in SA, so I went for a white canvassy fabric. I dyed it red. I had to boil it in the water and dye mixture for 30 minutes.I don't remember what brand it was,and it was the only brand I could find. My pattern does not give any bust,waist,hip meaurements, so I have studied how my first non-finished corset sits on my body and made a few instinctive adjustments. The opening where you lace the corset up gave me alot of clues.

You're making me want to have a go, even the toile is looking good. I never knew how to say that word until I caught up with Sewing Bee last night!Loving the print on your skirt and hoping the back pain subsides - my doctor recommended Ibuprofen & Paracetamol (one of each) taken together, it's worked for me. xxx

Hi Vix, thank you. I am really quite enjoying the Sewing Bee. It seems to have picked up a bit and I was quite excited by the Japanese style of pattern cutting. I thought that the skirt looked like a jellyfish. Thanks about my skirt. It has a totally bonkers deep handkerchief hem and is very swishy. I have tried your painkiller recommendation and am a bit more mobile today, thank you. I have pretty much every strong one you can get but I don't like taking them regularly as they make me even more dopey than usual and I feel hungover the next day. What are we like? :) Xx

Hi Veronica, corsets are deceptive. They are very simple to sew together, just straight lines. The hardest part is the fitting, which is much easier to do on someone else I can tell you. Lucky is the rara avis who fits into a size straight from the packet. I am really liking the Sewing Bee now and am going to be so sad that it is finishing soon. Fancy a load of fabric getting more viewers than Top Gear. :) Xx

Thanks Mim. I do love making them and have a lot of old samples kicking about that I really should finish. I have made quite a few burlesque costumes and they are a feat of engineering to make them durable and easy to get in and out of, as well as look the part. Such fun though. I wish that I had the cojones to give it a go. Xx

About Me

Hello, my name is Kelly. Welcome to MoR! This is the spot to follow the creative highs and lows as I try to upcycle my life. Boring scientist by day, secret seamstress by night. I love all things sewing, crafting, vintage fashion & home related. I am a complete corset obsessive, making corsets under the "Bad Kitty" banner and have been known to sew a costume or two. I live in Glasgow with way too much vintage fabric and sewing machines.
When I am not sewing I like gardening, cooking and baking. I have a beautiful daughter who thinks I am embarrassing and a very cuddly cat.