and go down to the bottom of the page to the list of mirror sites and right-click on one of the icons just left of one of the mirror site names and chose "Save link as" or whatever the IE or Chrome equivalent is to download the .iso file which you can burn to a cd as an image to get a bootable cd.

Are you sure this page is OK? No matter what I try on this page I get installers which seem very suspect; haven't yet been able to get a .iso file.

Are you sure this page is OK? No matter what I try on this page I get installers which seem very suspect; haven't yet been able to get a .iso file.

I bow to ThAbtO's superior graphics ability and will probably steal that picture (or maybe just link to it) from now on when recommending the UBCD.

The thing about websites is someone has to pay for them somehow, and since the guy behind the UBCD is providing it free, he has ads on the site, many of which try to disguise themselves as the actual download link so that they can try to sell you system scans or something.

But ThAbtO steered you in exactly the right direction.

Unless you understand the mysteries of P2P and torrents better than I, choose one of the mirror sites.

If you know how to do the comparing checksums thing (I gotta learn that), do so with what you download to reduce your chance of producing coasters.

And remember to burn the image (the .iso file) AS AN IMAGE, so that it'll be bootable.

The thing about websites is someone has to pay for them somehow, and since the guy behind the UBCD is providing it free, he has ads on the site, many of which try to disguise themselves as the actual download link so that they can try to sell you system scans or something.

Also true of some of the mirror sites pointed to. A real Alice in Wonderland environment.

Thanks to both of you for the help, finally got the CD and it's churning away at one of my suspect Tivo hard drives right now!

Three programs were added during my inept attempt to get the .iso. Myserialdial and BatBrowse are serious problems. I used the standard Windows uninstall. I then did a system scan with Avira and it found only one object to remove. Does anyone happen to know if that's adequate to totally get rid of these? Open it, a zip extractor, also got installed but apparently it's a legitimate program. I used the standard uninstall to remove it also.

I've never seen anything quite like this. The page dynamically changes, things move around, or maybe there are subtle variations in the URL as you get there. I'm certain that in some of my page views the mirror sites were not even there in the table and I had to totally back out and come back to see them. I'm never going back to try to reproduce this but overall I'd urge caution, even at the mirror sites if you find yourself there.

The drive in my TCD648250B is dead. It won't spin up. Does anyone have an image for this model. The OLED Series 3 or thermometer front.

As long as you've got it opened, check the power supply carefully for capacitor plague, and consider replacing the usual suspects anyway (while you're running the manufacturer's long test on the new drive before putting it into service), 'cause if they haven't gone bad yet it's almost certainly just a matter of time, just like for 2 other S3 models and the S2s.

Don't have images updated to 11.0m yet, but I'm pretty sure these are 11.0k, which is new enough to let you use WinMFS to go up to a 2TB internal drive.

You can download these straight from DropBox without having to have your own account with them (just right-click, then "Save as...", or "Save link as...", or however your browser words it), but if you'd like a free DropBox account, and you let me provide you with a referral so that they know I was involved, we both get extra free space.

Which means I can host more images for more models as I get my hands on them.

As long as you've got it opened, check the power supply carefully for capacitor plague, and consider replacing the usual suspects anyway (while you're running the manufacturer's long test on the new drive before putting it into service), 'cause if they haven't gone bad yet it's almost certainly just a matter of time, just like for 2 other S3 models and the S2s.

Don't have images updated to 11.0m yet, but I'm pretty sure these are 11.0k, which is new enough to let you use WinMFS to go up to a 2TB internal drive.

Thank you Unitron! I've already replaced all the caps on my power supply. That was last November's project. I guess I should have backed up my drive at the same time.

Thanks for posting the images. I already have a Dropbox account so I don't think I can help you get any more free space.

Hi! I'm brand new to the Tivo Forum so bear with me if I'm not doing everything as I should.

I have a problem: after a power outage my Series 2 decided to start rebooting. It wasn't all the time and it was still recording scheduled programs. I could watch some shows through their entirety but not all. Tivo said hard drive issue.
I attempted some kickstarts but nothing seemed to work.
I really wanted to attempt to save my settings, season pass, etc. (silly, I know) so I attempted SpinRite and put the hard drive back in the unit only by then I couldn't get past the Just a few minutes more screen. At this point I accidentally chose the wrong kickstart program (56, I believe) and it did a software update/installation or some such thing and then I couldn't get past the Powering Up screen. UGH!

Bought a used Series 2 (same model) put that hard drive in my unit and it went right to setup. Instead of just doing this (like I should have) I copied the contents of the old hard drive to the "new" hard drive and now we are back at not getting past the Just a few more minutes screen on either unit.

Any suggestions?

I did replace the power supply while I was at it since my unit was showing some signs of bulging capacitors.

I was thinking maybe modem related but I use a network adapter. At what point does the Tivo connect to that? The adapter lights don't come on at all a this point. I figure you must have to be fully connected to the service to be fully connected to the adapter.

Oh yeah, both hard drives are testing as fully functional units. I used the manufacturers test (Western Digital).

Hi! I'm brand new to the Tivo Forum so bear with me if I'm not doing everything as I should.

I have a problem: after a power outage my Series 2 decided to start rebooting. It wasn't all the time and it was still recording scheduled programs. I could watch some shows through their entirety but not all. Tivo said hard drive issue.
I attempted some kickstarts but nothing seemed to work.
I really wanted to attempt to save my settings, season pass, etc. (silly, I know) so I attempted SpinRite and put the hard drive back in the unit only by then I couldn't get past the Just a few minutes more screen. At this point I accidentally chose the wrong kickstart program (56, I believe) and it did a software update/installation or some such thing and then I couldn't get past the Powering Up screen. UGH!

Bought a used Series 2 (same model) put that hard drive in my unit and it went right to setup. Instead of just doing this (like I should have) I copied the contents of the old hard drive to the "new" hard drive and now we are back at not getting past the Just a few more minutes screen on either unit.

Any suggestions?

I did replace the power supply while I was at it since my unit was showing some signs of bulging capacitors.

I was thinking maybe modem related but I use a network adapter. At what point does the Tivo connect to that? The adapter lights don't come on at all a this point. I figure you must have to be fully connected to the service to be fully connected to the adapter.

Oh yeah, both hard drives are testing as fully functional units. I used the manufacturers test (Western Digital).

How, exactly, did you copy the original TiVo's hard drive to the new used TiVo's hard drive?

One the sticker on the back it says TCD followed by 6 numbers (unless one's a letter). What are those numbers?

How, exactly, did you copy the original TiVo's hard drive to the new used TiVo's hard drive?

One the sticker on the back it says TCD followed by 6 numbers (unless one's a letter). What are those numbers?

TCD 649080

I had someone much more computer sauve than me do it. He says that he first tried it with msflive and when that didn't work he tried it again with dd rescue. Both attempts still left us at the "just a few minutes more" screen.

I had someone much more computer sauve than me do it. He says that he first tried it with msflive and when that didn't work he tried it again with dd rescue. Both attempts still left us at the "just a few minutes more" screen.

I should probably also mention it was drive to drive.

So you swapped the power supply from your "parts" machine into the original one?

Something you can try is wrapping the original drive in paper toweling and putting it in the freezer overnight.

Also put some ice cubes in a Zip-Loc about the size of the drive or a little larger and then put that inside another Zip-Loc.

When you're ready, hook the drive up to the PC after unwrapping the paper towels and then put the ice pack on top--all this should be outside of the PC case.

And have the new drive hooked up as well.

Boot with the MFS Live cd and run

dd_rescue -v -r /dev/hda /dev/hdb

where dev/hda is the original drive which will be the source and /dev/hdb is the new drive which will be the target.

Of course, depending on how you have things hooked up, your source might not be hda and your target might not be hdb, so first

fdisk-l

should show you all the hard drives hooked up to the PC, although if you have a setup where the Windows drive is the master on the first IDE controller and the cd-rom drive is the slave, and the two TiVo drives are the master and slave on the second IDE controller then fdisk may choke on the cd before it gets to hdc and hdd.

So

pdisk -l

should show you which drives have the TiVo Apple Partition Map

(fdisk will report them as not being partitioned, and pdisk should report DOS/Windows type drives as not having something or the other--one of those commands can't see what the other one does and vice-versa)

So unless there are more 80GB drives hooked up to the PC than the two TiVo drives, you should be able to figure out which /dev/hd"x"'s are the two TiVo drives.

Now let's figure out which is which.

hdparm -i /dev/hdc

(assuming one of the TiVo drives is hdc) should show you some stuff about the drive, but if it doesn't show the serial number, or something that the other TiVo drive has that's different, try

hdparm -I /dev/hdc

which will get you all sorts of info.

Holding down either the CTRL key or the Shift Key and using Page Up should let you go back up the screen to see what scrolled past too quickly to read.

Now, back to

dd_rescue -v -r /dev/hda /dev/hdb

the

-v

means "verbose", as in provide a running report of what's going on.

The

-r

means start at the end of the drive instead of the front and work your way back toward the front. It'll copy from back to front on the target as well so everything will be where it's supposed to be.

This reverse copying only works because the two drives are the same size (but look on the labels and make sure the LBA numbers are identical to be sure--there were some Maxtor drives in the earlier single tuner S2s that were slightly larger, LBA-wise, than other brands, which meant a truncated image taken from one couldn't be restored to a Seagate or WD, even though both called themselves 40GB, or both called themselves 80GB, or whatever).

Doing it in reverse can let you get most of the copying done before you hit the problem areas where it has to slow down and take smaller bites and re-try a bunch of times.

If the screen goes blank, hit the space bar to bring it back.

There's a screen saver built into that MFS Live cd somewhere and apparently no way to turn it off, so the screen goes blank after a while of no keyboard input.

The space bar won't have any effect on

dd_rescue

after you've hit the Enter key and started it running, so it's a safe way to restore the video output to the video monitor.

So my Sister has an old S2 unit (TCD140060) with lifetime that appears to be dying. She says it locks up constantly. They don't really use it much, only to watch TV in bed, but it's also the anchor for her MSD subscription on her other TiVos so I'd like to try and fix it for her. I have like 4-5 TiVos in my closet that are sitting unused that I could cannibalize a drive from but none of them are the same model so I need an image. Does anyone have a link to where I can get an image for a TCD140060? Also it's been a long time since I've done this. Are there tools now that can do this right from Windows? Or do you still have to boot into Linux to do it?

So my Sister has an old S2 unit (TCD140060) with lifetime that appears to be dying. She says it locks up constantly. They don't really use it much, only to watch TV in bed, but it's also the anchor for her MSD subscription on her other TiVos so I'd like to try and fix it for her. I have like 4-5 TiVos in my closet that are sitting unused that I could cannibalize a drive from but none of them are the same model so I need an image. Does anyone have a link to where I can get an image for a TCD140060? Also it's been a long time since I've done this. Are there tools now that can do this right from Windows? Or do you still have to boot into Linux to do it?

Since it still workls, you should be able to use the existing drive to image a new drive. WinMFS should work fine. Be aware that a TiVo 2 uses PATA drives.

Yes, but I was actually referring to the replacement drive. It either has to be PATA or you'll need an adapter. Are the old TiVos all Series 2's? The replacement drive also has to be at least as big as the existing drive.

So my Sister has an old S2 unit (TCD140060) with lifetime that appears to be dying. She says it locks up constantly. They don't really use it much, only to watch TV in bed, but it's also the anchor for her MSD subscription on her other TiVos so I'd like to try and fix it for her. I have like 4-5 TiVos in my closet that are sitting unused that I could cannibalize a drive from but none of them are the same model so I need an image. Does anyone have a link to where I can get an image for a TCD140060? Also it's been a long time since I've done this. Are there tools now that can do this right from Windows? Or do you still have to boot into Linux to do it?

It came from a 140060, but the original 60GB drive wasn't in there when I got it, so I don't know if it originally had a "fat" 60GB Maxtor with a slightly higher LBA count than contemporary WD and Seagate 60GB drives or not.

I made the backup about a year ago, so it'll be "b" instead of "c".

I don't think I actually tested that image by writing it back to another drive, so if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try again.

So my Sister has an old S2 unit (TCD140060) with lifetime that appears to be dying. She says it locks up constantly. They don't really use it much, only to watch TV in bed, but it's also the anchor for her MSD subscription on her other TiVos so I'd like to try and fix it for her. I have like 4-5 TiVos in my closet that are sitting unused that I could cannibalize a drive from but none of them are the same model so I need an image. Does anyone have a link to where I can get an image for a TCD140060? Also it's been a long time since I've done this. Are there tools now that can do this right from Windows? Or do you still have to boot into Linux to do it?

PM me if you need WinMFS and can't find it, the problem with her 140 might be the drive dying (648 250 SATAs are turning up their toes these days so an old IDE going bad should be no surprise), or power supply problems (although I haven't heard of anything below/older than the 240s having "capacitor plague" yet), or both.

Go ahead and use mfsinfo in WinMFS on the drive that's in the 140 now (and tell us the brand, model number, and LBA count), and post it here for my benefit and so we'll know for certain the minimum swap size allowable.

Thanks guys. Yes I have a few 540 series S2 units and a couple of S2DT units, I think they are all PATA. If not I think I have an USB drive around here somewhere that has a PATA drive in it that I could cannibalize.

She's trying to transfer the shows she has on it over to her HD right now, and write down the SPs, so I'll grab it tomorrow and have a go at it. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks guys. Yes I have a few 540 series S2 units and a couple of S2DT units, I think they are all PATA. If not I think I have an USB drive around here somewhere that has a PATA drive in it that I could cannibalize.

She's trying to transfer the shows she has on it over to her HD right now, and write down the SPs, so I'll grab it tomorrow and have a go at it. I'll let you know how it turns out.

The S2 DTs all had 80GB drives (except for the ones with 160GB drives) so even if my 140060 image traces its lineage back to a Maxtor they're still big enough.

You could just copy the old drive, via PC, to another one and see if that works.

Regarding the power supply on the TCD140 TiVo, which is the same as in the TCD130 TiVo. I can confirm that these are subject to the capacitor plague. I've had to repair several power supplies and, of course, the capacitors that need replacing are under the heat sink.