There's a crop grown to such an extent in the Pacific Northwest that Oregon and Washington's combined production rivals California's. Despite the fact that the average American eats nearly a pound a year, no one admits to doing so. Even the people charged with marketing the fruit run away from its common name, preferring to sell the product as "dried plums" rather than the more familiar "prune." Such is the conundrum of the prune: It's treated as a punch line, but it isn't a joke.

A local product that's always in season and very affordable, prunes are a cook's secret weapon. For starters, they're nearly 50 percent natural sugar and as acidic as a lemon; the perfect ratio of sweet and sour. Prunes are better than unpropitious raisins and less expensive than dried cherries -- a baker can and should substitute prunes in any recipe that calls for dried fruit. This might be a little too Euro for most people's taste, but tarts, especially this time of year when there's a dearth of fresh fruit, are really good topped with prunes poached in brandy (the poached prunes look suspiciously like a fresh plum).

Prunes are rich in phenolic compounds, which work magically, or possibly scientifically, to enhance the flavor of meat. Stews, roasts and braises all benefit from the addition of a prune or two in their cooking liquid. Although "Parks and Recreation's" Ron Swanson would be appalled at such an admission, my burgers contain salt, pepper and blue cheese, with finely chopped prunes embedded in them. -- Dave Adamshick, Portland Farmers Market

Foodday's Tasting Panel recently sampled an array of maple syrups, but afterward discovered a Vermont brand with an Oregon connection that is every bit as delicious as many we tried. Don DeFlorio spends sugar season in the hills around Randolph, Vt., where he bottles premium syrup under the Macintosh Hill Maple Works label. It's the epitome of small-batch production -- last year, only 380 gallons of syrup were made from the sap of the farm's 1,220 sugar maple trees.

You don't have to go to Vermont to score a bottle, though. When DeFlorio isn't making syrup, he's part of a Portland-based crew that repairs fiber optic cables in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. That's why most of his syrup is distributed and sold here.

We loved his Grade A Fancy syrup, which would be excellent spooned over yogurt or ice cream. For pancakes or waffles, the thicker Grade A Dark would be perfect. Both are sold in beautiful 100 ml tarquina bottles, adorned with a maple leaf.

Question: My brother-in-law recently tried to make fried, stuffed
jalapeños called poppers. He removed the seeds, but the poppers were
still very hot. What could he have done to tame the heat?

Answer: Like anything grown in nature, chile peppers can vary in
intensity. Their age, degree of ripeness, even the amount of water they
got when they were growing can affect their heat.

You can take some evasive action, though. The most common way to tame
chiles is to remove both the seeds and the ribs, the white-ish ridges
inside the pepper. Chile purists would shudder, but you also can soak
the peppers in a little hot water before cooking them. It also might
make them milder if you grill or bake the filled peppers instead of
frying them. Finally, it will help quench the fire if you serve the
chiles with a dairy product, such as a sour cream-based dip.

Whatever you do, wear gloves while you handle the peppers, or wash your
hands very well afterward. The heat can linger much longer than you'd
think, and a single touch to your eyes, mouth or nose is all it will
take to remind you.
-- The Charlotte Observer (Charlotte, N.C.)

What We're Watching: "Essential Pépin"

Cooking legend Jacques Pépin returns to public television with this
26-part series, which showcases recipes and techniques from more than
six decades of cooking experience. We got a sneak peek of the first few
episodes, and all the hallmarks of Pépin's cooking are here: the recipes
are attainable, and his instructions are clear and easy to follow; his
demonstrations of knife skills will have you rethinking how you chop
onions and garlic; and there's plenty of humor, particularly in segments
featuring his daughter Claudine and granddaughter Shorey. Best of all,
he ends each episode with an expression of his cooking philosophy.
You've got to trust someone who says things like, "The kitchen is the
most-relaxing place in the house," or, "You can't make great food
without mixing some love into it."