Because of its unique mix of history; Prussian, Imperial, Second World War and the Cold War. Re-established as capital of a reunited Germany in 1991, Berlin is now experiencing an intoxicating renaissance as the great cosmopolitan city of central Europe. "High-brow" or "low-brow", Berlin has culture and entertainment in abundance, and is now the modern art capital of Europe.

What's the first thing you do when you return?

Stock up with food and drink from the food hall at KaDeWe department store on the Kurfürstendamm.

The Hotel de Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse (0049 30 460 6090; hotelderome.com, from £188); for the blowout experience book a room overlooking Babelplatz flanked by the Berlin Staatsoper, Humboldt University, St. Hedwig's Cathedral and Unter den Linden.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

The original Einstein Café on 58 Kurfürstenstrasse (261 5096; www.cafeeinstein.com), a coffee house with a cosy, lived-in décor for the Berlin intellectual set; eat the best apple strudel ever. For a late evening drink meet in Victoria Bar at 102 Potsdamerstrasse; drink classic cocktails at the long bar with an eclectic clientele and the most professional barmen in Berlin.

Where is your favourite place for lunch?

Borchardt (47 Französischestrasse; 8188 6262) is perfect for Saturday lunch with its high-class, international brasserie menu in a spectacular vaulted room (during the week it is popular with business people). In the summer, it is difficult to beat a schnitzel and salad on the terrace of Die Fischerhütte (8049 8310) or beer and bratwurst at the more informal beer garden overlooking the lake and forests at Schlachtensee (take your swimming costumes). Alternatively, try Monsieur Vuong near Hackescher Markt for a fast-food Vietnamese feast (46 Alte Schönhauserstrasse).

And for dinner?

For glamour in the Mitte area of Berlin go to the Grill Royal, overlooking the River Spree and Museum Island, to eat upmarket steak and chips (105b Friedrichstrasse: 2887 9288). Locals prefer restaurants off the Kurfürstendamm; here, Adnan (33 Schlüterstrasse; 5471 0590), an informal Italian brasserie, is a magnet for the smart crowd. Still hungry? Go for a late night or early morning currywurst (Berlin's famous delicacy) and champagne at the legendary 192 Kurfürstendamm.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

The Berlin Wall on Bernauerstrasse captures the strange modern history of the city. Here sits the new Chapel of Reconciliation, commemorating those shot as they were trying to escape into West Berlin. View the "death strip" from the museum watchtower.

What would you tell them to avoid?

The queues for the Reichstag. For a better view of the city, book a ticket and breakfast in the revolving restaurant at the top of the 1,200ft Fernsehturm (2475 7537; tv-turm.de).

Public transport or taxi?

Use the U- Bahn (underground) or S-Bahn (above ground): cheap and rarely crowded, even in rush hour.

Handbag or moneybelt?

Relax. By the standards of other capitals Berlin is a safe city for the visitor.

What should I take home?

Marzipan from Wald's at 54a Pestalozzistrasse.

Francis Pike is the author of 'Empires At War: A Short History of Modern Asia Since World War II' (I B Tauris, £27.50)