Excursions

Rock paintings

There are over 700 cave paintings just outside the town of Kasama, making this one of the richest areas for rock art anywhere in Africa. Don't expect the art to be full of images of animals or people, because the tradition here is of enigmatic geometric designs that defy easy interpretation. The art is the work of late Stone-Age peoples and may be as old at 18,000 years, but is probably much younger.

To get to them take the road towards Isoka, east of Kasama, for about 6km where you'll see a sign which indicates various sites. Less than 1km further on is the caretaker's house. Stop to sign in and pay him US$3 per person and he'll lead you around the area's paintings (and would appreciate a tip at the end).

Von Lettow-Vorbeck Monument

At the north end of the bridge over the Chambeshi River, about 85km south of Kasama, is a monument beside the road. It marks the place where General von Lettow-Vorbeck, Commander of the German forces in East Africa during World War I, surrendered to Hector Croad, the British District Commissioner, on November 14 1918.

Von Lettow-Vorbeck and his forces had marched south from German East Africa (now Tanzania). They didn't realise that the war in Europe had been over for three days until told by Croad. Upon hearing the news from the British the Germans agreed to march back to Abercorn (now called Mbala) and there hand over their prisoners to the British. It seems as if it was all very civilised.

Part of the monument is a breech-loading field gun, made in 1890, which was the type that the German forces used during World War I.

Chishimba Falls

To get to Chishimba go through Kasama and head west past the airport and towards Luwingu. After about 30km, take a right turn on to the wide gravel road to Mporokoso. Follow this for about 5km, before turning left on to the road towards the power station. About 2km down this, turn right down a small track to reach the falls. There you should find a sheltered picnic place and probably also a guard, who is usually willing to act as a guide. If the guard's around then it is generally safe to leave vehicles at the top here. There are a few thatched observation points along the falls and paths leading down to the bottom of them.

These falls are used partially to run an unobtrusive hydro-electric station, but the water that is left makes for a super waterfall. They are actually three falls, the first artificial and the next two natural. There's an entrance fee of Kw2,180 per person or car, including camping fee. Walkways have been established between the falls, and viewing shelters have been built.

The first, Mutumuna, has a drop of about 20m where it descends on to a rocky riverbed, and it's probably the prettiest of the three. The second falls, Kevala, protected by a weir, is more like a series of rapids than falls. The weir has created a large pool, and nearby is a camping and picnic site laid out among the trees. (If you're camping, leave about US$2 extra per person for the guide.) You can camp where you like; there are no facilities.

The third, actually called Chishimba and a short walk through a dambo, is a three-drop fall into a deep rocky canyon.. Water spouts over huge cliffs into a dark canyon and legend has it that spirits live here. If you walk right down to the bottom you can stand behind the curtain of water with the rock-face at your back and the water in front of you.