Carri Mundane on what’s coming up from Cassette Playa

Carri Mundane, who owns fashion label Cassette Playa, is the queen of the avant-garde, with her designs worn by Lil’ Wayne and MIA. Metro speaks to the grime/metal music-lover.

Carri Mundane owns fashion label Cassette Playa

When did you realise you had a ‘passion for fashion’?

I always had an interest, less in fashion and more in style, the way people dress. I see style as symbolism. And I’ve always been interested in sub-cultures. I decided to make a brand because it’s like art on a mass level, it reaches more people. I like the way everything is so accelerated in fashion.

Who inspired you?

Bernhard Willhelm, Jeremy Scott, JC/DC and also Raf Simons, Vivienne Westwood and Kim Jones. Designers who have a big link with street culture have always been an inspiration. Nigo, from Bathing Ape, is someone else I have to mention. He’s the ultimate at building an iconic brand and he’s changed the way streetwear brands are seen.

Which has been your favourite season so far?

The first show I did, Spring/Summer 07. It was called LSI and it was all about circuit-bending. It was the first time I experimented with digital print and that’s now a big part of Cassette Playa.

What’s coming up from Cassette Playa?

For the past two seasons I’ve been experimenting with digital presentations and this season we did a video booth installation. Next season I’ll be doing a catwalk show. This spring’s collection is called Ancestors (pictured below). It’s inspired by Native Americans, their mythology and symbolism, but it’s also got elements of 1980s rockabilly/psychobilly and The Cramps. It’s a bit trashy and a bit seedy. For the show, we did a lot more CGI and 3D graphics. I’m obsessed with amateur CGI such as Poser and Daz 3D.

Does grime music still inspire you?

I’m into a lot of things but there’s a thread between all of them. Yeah, I still like grime, although there are only a few artists out there who I think are still innovative. Wiley is still producing incredibly and Dizzee Rascal is still amazing, even though he’s making mainstream music. I got into grime mainly because of its productions; Ruff Sqwad has some amazing producers. It reminded me of early techno, really clean and futuristic. It didn’t sound like anything else and it was really British. But when I used to go to live grime shows, I really connected to it. I’m into metal music and grime nights had a lot of the same energy, all of the moshing (laughs). I really like industrial and EBM as well because it’s really dark but tribal, kind of like Goth-dance music. But These New Puritans are probably my favourite British band right now. Both their music and concepts are so challenging, futuristic and above all, British. I can talk about music way longer than fashion.

People associated yourself with the nu rave movement a couple of years ago…

I got really frustrated with it because people misunderstood what I was doing. Don’t get me wrong, I grew up with rave culture but what I was taking from it was the psychedelia and utopianism. I never wanted to re-create the Smiley culture. I believe in futurism, not being retro. At the time when it was really big in the press, it scared me. I used to find it really hard because people just didn’t get me. I’m kind of glad the whole thing went away. I never wanted to be famous.

You’re not just a fashion designer, are you?

I still do styling but only stuff I really want to do or that pays good money (laughs). I just don’t have time to do everything. I’ve worked with Vice, Dazed & Confused (Japan) and I’ve just gone back to working with Supersuper Magazine after two years. I like what it’s doing. It really represents youth culture and they’re usually the ones who pick up on things really early on. But what I really want to do is make more films; I’ve already made four.

You’ve collaborated with a lot of brands, most recently Disney. Who’s been the best to work with?

I enjoyed working with Stussy because it was women’s and I got to show what I can do on that side. I’ve worked with Nike on a few projects; I made a computer game, a capsule collection and a limited-edition blazer. Nike is such an iconic global brand and that allows us to access a different audience. However, it’s also about innovation and technology, so not that different to us. I only want to work with brands when there’s a connection between us.