Roberta's in Bushwick in the 'New York Times'

Roberta's in Bushwick for his $25 and Under column in the New York Times. He's none too excited about the traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas on offer at this rustic little place nestled in to an old warehouse, but he raves about the other 12-inch outré pies being turned out of the wood-fired oven there. ("Neapolitan purists may now want to avert their eyes," he says.)

Roberta’s take on a Hawaiian pizza comes topped with paper-thin sheets of ripe pineapple, shreds of ham, sliced jalapeños and dabs of ricotta cheese.

The Chicken by the Sea features red sauce, Italian tuna, capers and red onions. Guanciale and Egg is just that: a mozzarella pizza strewn with crisp-cooked pieces of housemade guanciale (with appealingly strong flavors of clove and sweet spices) and an egg cooked to a slightly runny doneness during the pizza’s two or so minutes in the oven.

Calzones are beautifully browned and bubbly half-moons; choose the special calzone with roasted peppers, ricotta and capicola if it’s available.

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About the Author

Adam Kuban is the proprietor of the pop-up Margot's Pizza, which serves bar-style pizza. But you may also know him as the founder of Slice (RIP, 2003–2014) where he has written thousands of blog posts about pizza. He also created A Hamburger Today and served as Serious Eats's founding editor (2006–2010) after having sold those sites to SE.

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