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Three-Stage 80% Sourdough Rye Bread from Hamelman's "Bread"

Three-Stage 80% Sourdough Rye Bread from Hamelman's "Bread"

One of my thoughts in purchasing a Brød & Taylor Folding Proofer was that I would be able to make Three-Stage Detmolder rye breads with more precise temperature control than I could otherwise achieve. After using this device for fermenting other starters, fermenting doughs and proofing loaves over the past couple of months, I my first rye by the three-stage Detmolder method employing the Folding Proofer this weekend.

My one previous bake of a Detmolder 3-stage rye was almost 3 years ago. (See: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/12742/hamelman039s-70-3stage-rye-sourdough) I do recall that bread as having a delicious, sweet, earthy, complex flavor. The bread I baked this weekend was the very similar 80% Three-Stage Rye from Bread. This bread has an hydration of 78%. 37.8% of the flour is pre-fermented.

As described by Jeffrey Hamelman in Bread (pg. 200), this method, developed in Germany, “develops the latent potential of a mature rye culture through a series of builds,” each of which optimizes the development of yeast growth, lactic acid and acetic acid production, respectively. The builds differ in hydration, fermentation temperature and length of fermentation.

Hamelman calls the three stages or builds “Freshening,” “Basic Sour” and “Full Sour.” The first build encourages yeast multiplication in a moist paste fermented at a moderate temperature. The second build is much firmer and is fermented for a long time at a relatively cool temperature to generate acetic acid. The third build is, again, moister, and it is fermented at a warm temperature for a short time. This build is to increase the lactic acid content of the sour. After that, the final dough is mixed.

Mix all ingredients 4 minutes at Speed 1 then 1-1 1/2 minutes at Speed 2. DDT=82-84º F. (Note: Hamelman's times are for a spiral mixer. If using a KitchenAid, I double these mixing times.)

Bulk ferment for 10-20 minutes.

Divide into 1.5-2.5 lb pieces and shape round.

Proof about 1 hour at 85º F.

Dock the loaves. Bake for 10 minutes at 480-490º F with steam for the first 5 minutes, then lower temperature to 410º F and bake 40-45 minutes for a 1.5 lb loaf and about 1 hour for a 2.5 lb loaf.

Cool on a rack. When fully cooled, wrap in linen and let rest for at least 24 hours before slicing.

These loaves scaled to 807 g. After baking and cooling, each weighed 700 g.

Crumb and loaf profile

Slices

I sliced the bread after it had sat, wrapped in linen, for 24 hours. The crust was chewy, and the crumb was moist and tender. The flavor was very mellow and balanced. It was not as sweet as I remember the 3-stage 70% rye being, but that was 3 years ago(!). The sourdough tang was present but subdued. A lovely flavor.

I had been planning on leaving the loaves unsliced for another 12 hours, but my wife decided she wanted rye with smoked salmon as an appetizer for dinner. How could I refuse such a tempting proposition?

Delicious!

I also made a couple loaves of Hamelman's Pain au Levain today. As simple and straight-forward as it is, this is one of my favorite breads.

I proofed these loaves seam-side down, thinking I might just let them burst willy nilly, but, when I flipped them onto the peel, the seams looked too well-sealed, so I did dock them. As anticipated, I got very good oven spring for an 80% rye, but the seams didn't really open much. The result does look nice to me.

Great looking loaves, each and every one, but your 80% Rye are simply brilliant! If they don't yield a spectacular crumb with the high profile you've achieved, I'll be very surprised. "I got very good oven spring for an 80% rye" indeed!

In the medium low range at 13 % then. There should be enough moisture left that the loaves will really need some time before slicing for optimum crumb set. Be strong my friend. Sincere apologies for putting you in that dicey position, not my intent at all. I just figured you had the #'s in your notes somewhere. Tell me to wait next time David, the guilt I'm feeling right now is almost too much to bear. ;^)

I usually build my rye sour through 3 builds, but not with the specific hydration levels or fermentation temperatures called for by the Detmolder method.

This dough was very slack and sticky. I handle most rye breads with lightly floured hands. This dough was shaped with wet hands. The formed loaves did have enough surface tension to not spread on the board.

There was no appreciable dough expansion during the very brief bulk fermentation (20 minutes), but I actually proofed the loaves for about 80 minutes, waiting for the pain au levain bake to finish and the oven to get back up to temperature. The loaves were well risen, and there was no deflation as I transferred them to the peel and docked them.

Regarding the spousal assessment: As she helped herself to a third slice, she told me it was very good, but not as good as the Jewish Sour Rye. She's a hard customer, but her taste for rye bread is coming along.

I have been able to come close to compliance with Detmolder fermentation temperature requirements by using my microwave oven with a mug of hot water as a proof box. But, clearly, the Folding Proofer is much easier.

The Folding Proofer folds up to a rather compact form. It does take space when in use, but it could be put anywhere close enough to an electrical outlet. Setting it up and folding it each takes seconds. I keep mine folded and in the original box when I'm not using it. It is about as compact as my baking stone.

Hi David! I am new to Rye doughs and am fascinated with your recipe and photos. One question I have is in regards to the machine mixing portion of the recipe. I do not have a dough mixer. What are some signs I should look for if I decide to do this step by hand? Is its main function to redistribute ingredients, build strength, or both? I understand the dough is likely to be very sticky and challenging to work with. However, any development clues would be appreciated. Thanks!

With this type of rye, my notion is that distribution of ingredients is the main purpose of mixing. I guess you have to use visual clues to determine how much mixing is enough.

The dough is super sticky! My current method is to wet the board and to keep my hands and bench knife wet.

Usually, I advise new rye bakers to ease into rye, starting with a 40% rye and working up to 70-80-90% as comfortable. Previous experience with high-hydration wheat flour doughs might help psychologically, but rye is a very different handling experience.

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