Description

This route is pretty fun and the moves are unique and position really cool, but it needs more traffic. With more traffic or even a good old-fashion brush-down, it would be 2 stars. At present, it is worth doing, but not a destination climb.

Approach the NW corner of the Finger Flatiron. You will see some free-standing flakes rising out of the ground near that corner- from there a right-leaning crack (hand-to-fist) goes up and right below a massive roof, to a 2-3" crack at the lip of the roof, at its narrowest point, about 1/2 meter.Climb up this system protecting on a few fist-sized cams and whatever else you can fidget in (5.8). We cleaned a small fixed nut that was surprisingly well placed and seemed good. Turn the roof (5.7) at a solid cam placement and get established above the roof (5.8) and fidget in some gear. Proceed left on a tiny foot ramp (5.8+) or right and up (5.8+) either way a little balancy and above gear at times, but without any dangerous fall potential if you place what is available. The straight-up option goes directly to a rap anchor, but passes some potentially dangerous loose rocks-beware.

The rap anchor above "Nude Figures" (to the south) was re-enforced for the second time in as many years and seems solid. The anchor directly above this climb was total crap, save one piece of cordalette. I removed 3 pieces of webbing that were already 100% severed or chewed through, and one that was brittle and 60% chewed through. This anchor needs one more good piece and more of the crap removed. I ran out for the day after replacing other anchors. If you do the climb, please attend to this. And beware- there is a nylon loving critter up there trying to kill off inattentive climbers.

Protection

A light standard rack. If you like to sew it up, take an extra #3-3.5 Camalot or a 4" piece.