Kham then and now. A photoblog showing how eastern Tibet looked in the 1920s and how the same places and people look now. Based on the explorations of botanist Joseph Rock.

Monday, December 07, 2015

Yading Big Kora - trekking in June 2016

They say you should never go back, but after a bit of thought I've decided to revisit Yading and do the outer kora of the three peaks again. I did it in 2010 (as you can see at this blog entry with photos) but I've always wanted to go back and 'do it properly'. The reason being is that on my first circuit we did it in a rushed way, taking five days to do what should have taken seven or eight. Part of the problem was that we were trekking blind, into unknown territory without decent maps and thus reliant on local guides to show us the way. They insisted on haring round the circuit - and they didn't even know the way too well themselves. We had some great weather but were too knackered and worried about minor hassles (such as our guides not having brought any shelter and having to sit round a fire all night on the mountainside) to really make the most of the trek. This time around I'm going to take it 'easy' (relatively speaking) and go more slowly. This time I have the advantage of knowing the way and knowing the problems and the unknowns .. so I can focus on what I want to do, at my own pace. I also have the advantage of much better mapping via Google Earth, which now provides ridiculously detailed topographical info for the whole circuit. On our previous circuit we had only vague outlines of the mountains to guide us.

So my plan is to hike around the three peaks in mid June. I'm going to do the full seven passes over about eight days, so this will mean carrying a lot of gear to be self sufficient (there are no villages or shops en route, it's all up in the mountains). That means a tent, cooking gear and food for seven days. I hope to hire some local guides to carry my pack - if I can find them. May-June is the season when locals go fossicking for chongtsao fungus - a lucrative herbal remedy, and most of them are not willing to give up a week of their time to carry backs round the hills for 300 yuan a day. I'm not that fit, but I still reckon I can get my pack over the passes if need be and if I take it slow.

So if you're in the Sichuan area in June and are up to the challenge, let me know at: beijingweek-at -gmail.com

Here's my itinerary:

Day 1. Yading village-Chonggu monastery,
ascend to below the First Pass, where there is a crude stone shelter in
a hollow. Great views of Shenrezig.Day 2. Shelter - First Pass - Chanadorje glacier.
The
slog up to the first and highest pass is across some bleak rocks. The
descent is equally bleak at first, but grand scenery. There is a small
'village' of temporary shelters at the bottom of the valley where
Tibetans camp to pick the fungus worm chongtsao. From here you descend
into a steep forested valley and turn 90 degrees left to hike up to a
magnificent open space with awesome views of the south face of
Chandorje, where there are great spots to camp.Day 3. Over the
Second Pass into a steep valley around the back of Chanadorje that leads
up to a daunting rock wall. This is not as bad as it looks can be
scrambled up to cross the Third Pass, known as Yaka. Best to camp before
crossing the pass as the next day is a long one. Day 4. Over the
Third Pass and descend round the back of Jambeyang, over a scree slope
and to the edge of yet another sunken valley, where you turn into a
spectacular ampitheatre below the south west face and glaciers of
Jambeyang. Good camping spot.Day 5. Tough day, following the 'cliff
walk' beneath the rock face to reach a shoulder that marks the Fourth
Pass, where you turn north. Up a rocky bleak valley in the shadow of
Jambeyang, many alpine lakes, then cross a small pass to descend to a
grassy clearing where you can camp at 'Rock's rock' - a massive cube of
rock where explorer Joseph Rock once camped.Day 6. A gentle ascent
to the Fifth Pass, where you gain views of Shenrezig, and descend
steeply to Snake Lake. Can camp on the shore or ascend to the Sixth
Pass, below Shenrezig - this is where many day trekkers walk up to from
Chonggu monastery so you are back on the beaten track. Descend to tarn
and shelter.Day 7. Final day, on the route of the mini-kora, descend
through woods round the back of Shenrezig and then up to the Seventh
Pass. Long descent to Chonggu monastery.

[Might do a detour to some alpine lakes at this point to make it an eight day trip]

6 comments:

Anonymous
said...

Hello, Michael. Your upcoming Yading Kora looks very enticing, but I am afraid I am not up to it physically - unless I can rustle up a few porters and horses to carry my gear and stuff ! I was at Yading recently (October 2015) and was amazed to see the hordes of tourists who made it there too. I trekked up to the lakes and wished I could venture further to get away from the day-trippers ... Anyway, good luck for your Kora and I look forward to reading your reports after you have done it. Cheers. James L Malaysia

Dear Michael,I came from Germany and I intend to go to Yading in May 2016 and I read your very interesting report of your big Kora in 2010. There were a lot of picture from google earth with your hiking route.In the pictures are many red points, are this GPS-coordinates? Is it possible to get this coordinates?I did not found a e-mail adress, so I try to make a contact over this blog. My e-mail adress is: JoacGes@aol.com.I hope you understand my scool-english (many years ago)Best regards and a happy new yearJoachim Gesch

This is really cool Michael Woodhead! I just visited Rock's old residence outside of Lijiang (stumbled upon Yuhu village in chilly December) and I've made it to your blog after searching more life stories and keywords of the great "Joseph Rock". I intend to not only go back as a tourist (though made a ton of newly acquainted NaXi friends that day when the annual "pig-killing" celebration took place) but I'd love to make it a life-long journey (I gotta start somewhere eh:). Seeing that someone like you has just given me so much inspiration (though haven't went through them all yet) and hope into the future and I'd like to 拜师 and perhaps join you on my next adventure to China G-d willing! I've tried to added you on Google+! Cheers mate.

About this blog

Dr Joseph Rock was an Austrian-American botanist who explored the Tibetan borderlands of Sichuan and Yunnan in the 1920s and 30s. This is about my travels to revisit the places he described in the National Geographic magazine. Any questions? contact me at beijingweek AT gmail