Mazatlán's luster restored

There was a time around 2010, when the “Pearl of the Pacific” had lost its luster. Crime was up and tourism, especially from cruise lines, fell off sharply. But beginning in 2014, the resort city at the mouth of the Sea of Cortez began a major reversal.

The cruise lines are back, buildings along the famed 17- mile-long Malecón waterfront drive seem to have had a fresh coat of paint, and Mazatlán has been named the host city for Mexico’s premier tourism marketplace (Tianguis Turistico) for 2018.

More than that, the city is safe and welcoming for families, singles and retirees. In fact, Mazatlán has been named the third best place in the world to retire in 2017 by “Live and Invest Overseas” (after Portugal’s Algarve and Valletta, Malta). In short, there is a Mazatlán for everyone.

What interests most of us is along the waterfront from Emerald Bay in the north to Stone Island (Isla de la Piedra) in the south. So visit some of my favorite Mazatlán places with me.

1. Emerald Bay. The highlight of Emerald Bay is the Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay Hotel and Spa. Built to reflect the style of old Mazatlán (Mazatlán Vieja) the hotel can be the perfect destination resort with clean beaches, multiple swimming pools, tennis courts, great bars and restaurants from gourmet to casual and rooms that all have kitchens.

It’s a wonderful destination resort for couples. The only drawback is that they may never leave the beautifully landscaped resort and explore the rest of the city. However, if they do, there is a free shuttle to the Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán in the main tourist zone so you don’t have to miss the rest of the city.

2. The Malecón. The beauty of Mazatlán is on display day or night from this 17-mile-long coastal road that parallels the beaches. Heading south from the tourist Golden Zone, the Malecón road links the hotel zone to the city center.

The street name changes along the way, but, no matter the name, all you need to know is the Malecón. The gentle curve of the bay makes the lights along the Malecón especially beautiful at night. All along the Malecón there are beachfront seafood restaurants serving the city’s famed shrimp.

While not as famous at those in Acapulco, the Malecón even has its own cliff divers.

The entire length of the Malecón and the Golden Zone are plied by Pulmonias, Mazatlán’s unique open-air golf cart-like taxis—the most fun way to travel from the marina district to the center of the city.

3. Mazatlán Vieja and the Plaza Machado. Nowhere on the Pacific Coast of Mexico is there a treasure like Mazatlán Vieja (Old Mazatlán). Visitors and locals wander these streets of late 19th and early 20th century homes, many of which have been converted to restaurants and art galleries.

In the mid-1980s these homes went into disrepair, but with the restoration of the beautiful Teatro Angela Peralta and its adjacent Plaza Machado, the old city came alive and is now again the vibrant heart of the city that it was in its earlier days.

Of particular interest is the beautiful Plaza Machado lined with noted restaurants such as Pedro y Lola and Casa 46 as well as casual bars offering everything from hamburgers to Argentine beef.

Nearby and of note, visitors and locals alike are fond of Hector’s Bistro, Water’s Edge and the beautiful El Presidio.

For those who want to stay in the old city, there are several excellent and charming boutique hotels.

Getty Images

The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception in Mazatlán.

The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception in Mazatlán. (Getty Images)

4. Plaza Republica and Mercado Municipal Pino Suarez. The heart of central Mazatlán is the Plaza Republica, a quintessential Mexican central square. On one side is the beautiful Basilica of the Immaculate Conception and on another is the Palacio Municipal (city hall).

Just two blocks away is the Pino Suarez central market. Need sunglasses, souvenirs, fresh fruit and vegetables, a whole pig to roast or just-caught fish? It’s all in the city’s largest open emporium.

5. Isla de la Piedra. For an instant trip to the tranquillity of a South Seas island, take a panga (water taxi) across Mazatlán harbor to Isla de la Piedra or Stone Island. Walk to thatched roof palapa-style restaurants, request a beach chair and umbrella (free for the price of a beer) and spend the day quietly enjoying sun, sand, surf and fresh seafood.

On the city side, near the panga launch, is La Puntilla, a Mazatlán tradition for fresh seafood.

6. Mazatlán International Center and Galerias Marina Mazatlán. The opposite side of the spectrum to Stone Island is the modern Mazatlán International (Convention) Center and nearby Galerias Marina Mazatlán.

The mall is anchored by Sears (owned in Mexico by Carlos Slim) and Liverpool, one of Mexico’s two most prestigious department store chains. Also, if you need a fix from home, there is a Walmart just across the road from the Galerias Marina Mazatlán.

7. Isla de la Venado. Three off-shore islands act a barriers to protect Mazatlán from tropical storms. They are Pajaros (Bird), Venado (deer) and Chivo (goat). The Venado is the most popular for tours across the open ocean to the secluded beaches facing the city.

Unlike Isla de la Piedra, there are limited services, but the feeling of being away from civilization while enjoying great views of the city across the water makes a visit quite popular. Tours are booked at most hotels.

8. Los Vecinos. Neighboring towns of Corcordia, Copala and El Rosario are no more than an hour from Mazatlán. Concordia and Copala are small colonial villages at the foot of the Sierra Madres. These towns are very walkable and have good restaurants and shopping for locally made crafts.

El Rosario, south of Mazatlán, is a historic mining town with a beautiful church and exquisite altar. The town is best known for the home and museum of the great singer Lola Beltran.

Tours of the neighboring towns are available from major hotels or by car rental.

9. Mazatlán Aquarium (Acuario). Mazatlán sits at the mouth of the Gulf of California, which hosts more species of fish than any sea on the planet. The city’s aquarium specializes in the diversity of the Gulf. It offers visitors the ability to enter the shark tank (in an acrylic capsule) and snorkel in the manta ray tank.

On the conservation side, the Mazatlán Aquarium is a leader in protecting endangered species such as sea turtles, which lay their eggs on the local beaches.

10. Carnaval. Not a place but a state of mind, Mexico’s second largest pre-Lenten festival will run Feb. 8-13 next year. Elaborate costumes, beautiful floats, live bands, concerts, dancing in the street, formal parties and a carefree atmosphere make this week the highlight of the Mazatlán party year. The only caution is to book hotels very early, because they fill up fast.

There is no place quite like Mazatlán on the west coast of North America. It’s the perfect place everyone. The city is casual, diverse and friendly and has some of the best beaches on the coast. I think if you try it, you’ll love it. We do, and keep coming back every year.

Volaris Airlines has daily, nonstop service for a short two-hour flight to Mazatlán from CBX, the San Diego Terminal at Tijuana International Airport.