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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-05-2009 07:36 PM

nastynova

one of those things where i got frustrated... and bagged it up... it turned cold and I havent worked on it since...

04-03-2009 10:18 AM

oldbogie

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71chevy

Was curious what you came up with / ended up doing to solve problem of rocker arm hitting spring? I am having same problem with RHS protorker heads and Comp cams magnum roller tip rockers 1.5 ratio, but looks to me. moving everything up (longer pushrod/longer stud) will throw off my geometry.

Die grinder across the bottom of the rocker where clearance is an issue. Then polish the clearanced area.

Bogie

04-02-2009 07:43 PM

71chevy

anyone still watching this?

Was curious what you came up with / ended up doing to solve problem of rocker arm hitting spring? I am having same problem with RHS protorker heads and Comp cams magnum roller tip rockers 1.5 ratio, but looks to me. moving everything up (longer pushrod/longer stud) will throw off my geometry.

Agree that going longer is tightening things up on rocker, valve centerline and rocker stud centerline converge so is going to.

07-03-2008 12:13 AM

sam-missle

once you get longer studs and push rods you will find the rockers most likely will clear the retainer. the sportsman 11 heads have a thicker deck=longer rods. .100 over valves=longer rods.

sam-missle

07-02-2008 09:38 PM

Stroke

I don't know what you have going on, but I've run 1.625 springs on sbc's with nothing like what you have there. Please note everything you have, from valve to cam - all parts used. Also, show the entire rocker in one of those side shots. How are you determining your pushrod length? I had a sbc dart headed mill that used an 8.2" for correct geometry.

Quote:

+0.100 valve were to get close to the correct spring installed height

When you move the valve tip up (+.100), the rocker stud and valve tip move towards each other - they are not parallel. This means you have to move the trunion up higher for geometry to be right, also moving the rocker body closer to the valve and it's associated hardware. What installed height do you currently have, and how far from coil bind are you at max lift? What springs? do you have?

Quote:

looks like I will need to take quite a bit off the rockers or get something slimmer in the trunion area...

or a smaller diameter spring like these about $150 you'd be in the clear aside from the geometry thing.

07-02-2008 09:28 PM

nastynova

I'll pull the guide plate and use an adjustable rod... looks like I will need to take quite a bit off the rockers or get something slimmer in the trunion area...

07-02-2008 09:24 PM

SSedan64

Yes that does look slightly better. Only .035" longer than the ones in the other Pics. Looks like another .100" would be close.

07-02-2008 09:13 PM

ericnova72

Don't know what you mean by worse, geometry looks better to me, but the pushrod still isn't long enough. You are moving in the right direction, but looks to need another .050-.100" longer. As far as the retainer to rocker body interference, these are the Diecast Crane Energizer rockers-correct?? They often need grinding for clearance. My stepbrother had to grind his, which totally turned me off to ever using these rockers myself, and he was using a 1.44" Crower spring. Maybe having .060-.080" machined off the retainer diameter would help, there is plenty of material there for this as the 1.460" spring only really needs a 1.380" retainer o.d.

07-02-2008 08:40 PM

nastynova

Just for laughs... and you have too... I dropped a 7.80 push rod in...
pic 1 is closed, 2 open... looks worse??? and trunion is tight against retainer...

07-02-2008 08:56 AM

Stroke

Quote:

one more thing to add to the list... its getting to be a long list on a build that isn't that wild and I never would have imagined to have issues at every turn

This is why measurements are CRITICAL. When you change one thing it affects others, especially in the valve train. Perhaps your list wasn't yet finished.

07-01-2008 09:25 PM

ericnova72

Rockers hitting retainers

I agree with Coldknock, judging from the pics you posted the pushrods you have are too short. This is confirmed by the fact that the pics show the roller contact starting too far inboard( lifter valley side ) and moving too far to the outboard side at full lift. I would expect that with the parts you have that the correct pushrod length will fall in the 7.85"-7.90" range, and will require the use of longer rocker arm studs.
Just for future reference, Crane's recommendations would have been closer to correct if you would have had the spring pads on the heads machined deeper to allow you to achieve the desired installed height using a standard length valve, if the Sportsman II's have enough material to allow it.
Most experienced racers don't buy "matched kits" because they know that there are too many variables for a "one size fits all" kit to cover. Most mix and match parts (and brands) to fit their requirements and budget.
Don't get too hung up on everything being the same brand.

07-01-2008 07:53 PM

nastynova

yes... and my luck it would be too short to..... sigh....

07-01-2008 07:52 PM

coldknock

Kinda hard to get tire smoke from a Big Bertha.

Larry

07-01-2008 07:36 PM

nastynova

i'm looking at only 3/8" now... so longer push rods most likely mean longer studs... one more thing to add to the list... its getting to be a long list on a build that isn't that wild and I never would have imagined to have issues at every turn... i hear golf is fun and i can probably buy a nice set of clubs for what i've got in this thing, but will it put a smile on my face

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