Controlpanels for 9v trains

8 posts in this topic

My layout is quite big, but my controlpanel for 12v is..........well I have not seen it much . Now is 12v in not very common to make big layouts with. With 9v, I see at brickshelf often big 9v layouts. I just wonder how the controlpanels look like form these 9v layouts.

I'm busy to make remote controlled switches for 9v. And I'm trying to make a proper controlpanel for it, where I only use lego parts. I've ordered some parts, when they arrive I will make pic's of my idea for a controlpanel for big 9v layouts.

While I wait, maybe I see more practical ideas here and brickshelf.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

One setup that I've seen often is to put 4 polarity switches side-by-side on the speed regulator's studs and a 2x8 white conducting plate over them. You can attach the regulator's main output to the plate. This gives you four independent outputs, although you have to set the speed for all of them at once. I don't have a big train layout but use this kind of setup for Technic models.

Unfortunately, the switches and conducting plates were always quite expensive, and are even more so now that they have been out of production for many years.

As for the 12V system, I don't know a lot about it, but it included some large switch-like pieces and you could attach several of them to the 12V transformer block. I've seen this arrangement in some really old Dacta sets from the 80s.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

They'd be similar to yours, I guess. Because the switch tracks are not designed for automation, most layouts would be manually set, while some others might use Mindstorms and the remote control for it to set the switches. I've even seen pneumatic systems, that uses a small pneumatic cylinder as an actuator. That setup had the valves and compressor built as a seperate control panel, which is possible because it only requires one motor for an entire yard, but I imagine the plumbing would be a nightmare.

I myself would probably go manual, but I have an idea for a Mindstorms-controlled layout where trains are selected by the computer by setting the switches to the corresponding track the train is parked on, and then simply start it. Starting the process would be by simply putting your hand on a panel. While not so fun at home, it would make a layout more interactive and fun for the kids at shows.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

My layout is quite big, but my controlpanel for 12v is..........well I have not seen it much . Now is 12v in not very common to make big layouts with. With 9v, I see at brickshelf often big 9v layouts. I just wonder how the controlpanels look like form these 9v layouts.

I'm busy to make remote controlled switches for 9v. And I'm trying to make a proper controlpanel for it, where I only use lego parts. I've ordered some parts, when they arrive I will make pic's of my idea for a controlpanel for big 9v layouts.

While I wait, maybe I see more practical ideas here and brickshelf.

Not quite the electrical panels you're after, but these are the panel modules for my pneumatic points control on my 9V layout.

I used a hand pump per point, so that if one went wrong I wouldn't lose control of any others at a show.

The panel modules are 48x8 and pneumatic tubes attach to tubes on the next modules so that I can control point 9 tracks away with 6 pumps or less of the hand pump cylinder.

It will follow the same philosophy electrically when I've finalised those connections, i.e. the locations of feeds and signals and the consequent inter-module connection requirements. I will use switches in each of the panel modules.

I might put diode modules in the track modules themselves, with an isolation between track sections within a module made with insulating tape and a diode drop between uphill and flat and between flat and downhill. This would reduce the need for connections back the the panel modules.

I will be using a large power supply for the main lines - a 9V controller is not powerful enough. I mounted some toggle switches in some LEGO parts. these switches are rated higher than LEGO pole reverser switches, so they can handle switching trains at an amp each (= 2 amps on change-over). Static lights for signals etc... will be on a separate 9V DC circuit from a 300mA DC power supply - no need to waste a train controller on those. Any electric points will use a panel of 9V pole reverser switches as I did on previous layouts. I might use PF leads to multiplex connections onto one lead, to reduce lead connections.