LFW: DAKS S/S 2014

Filippo Scuffi is one of those designers who gets a bit cerebral when thinking about fashion. Having studied at Harvard prior to getting his degree in fashion psychology at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, he puts some intelligence and care behind his designs that is not always available in a lot of the fashion we see coming down the runway. The result is not only a very wearable spring/summer collection for DAKS London, but one that tastefully rides the line between beautiful practicality and devilish sensuality.

The DAKS palette is based on earth tones. We’re not the least bit surprised to see caramel colored leather or batwing trench coats mixed heavily into the collection. Various shades of brown comprise a quaint and delicate check pattern that avoids being excessive and compliments the solids. There is a touch of pink here and there, such as in the first couple of pieces, but it almost seems to be more of a detailing.

Filippo’s silhouettes are sleek and feminine. Bodices are tailored and fitting while skirts are more full and trousers are downright billowing at times and skin-tight at others. His use of capes, both full-length and cropped, provide an added sense of both drama and breeziness. A white crocheted cape is especially nice and is one of those wardrobe pieces that might well become trans-seasonal for a lot of women.

The further in to the collection one looks, the more sexy the styles become; necklines plunge, the slit in skirts raises, and backs mysteriously disappear. Who says brown can’t be sensual and alluring? What Filippo does with the last third of this line is surprisingly daring for a label that’s not exactly known for taking a lot of risks. The final piece comes complete with a black veil and long train. Whether it is meant for gothic weddings or stylish mourning may be a matter of opinion. Either way, the effect is surprisingly sexy.

The finishing point on these looks is a very beautiful, almost turban-esque scarf treatment done in fabrics that compliment each ensemble. While the slick backed hair, low-slung pony tail is all the rave this season, this is the first time we’ve seen something more creative than just slapping another hat on a head. Yes, we’re going to need a tutorial to figure out how to duplicate the look, but the effect is genuinely refreshing.