Michelin A1 Latex inner tubes are good sound quality.
But a bit heavy (They come at approximately 85gr that is a lot more then the claimed weight).

Only one latex inner tube is better. At least IMHO

That is the Challenge Latex inner tube. 70-75gr
I like this one a little bit better then the Michelin A1.
It is seamless and a bit lighter less then 10-12 gr then the Michelin A1.
Look at: http://www.challengetech.it/cameradaria.php

My riding experience with the Challenge Latex inner tube are great!
But that's also for the Michelin A1 Latex.

Only problem with the Latex Challenge is that it is difficult to find these! Michelin is widely available.

Every Michelin I've gotten quickly fails at the juncture of the latex and the rubber around the base of the valve stem. I'll pump it up, and 10 minutes later "whooosh" its flat, with a 5 mm hole at that juncture. I've got about 6 flat tubes I've collected, all failed the exact same way. Michelin latex tubes are useless as far as I'm concerned.

I had no luck with the Vredesteins at all.Like the Pariba it is different (is it latex??) and loosing its pressure a lot faster then a Michelin or Challenge...

Vredestein not for me! Just my opinion.

Hi,

Vredestein and Pariba (if you can still find the latter) use true natural latex as opposed to crap like the pigmented latex Michelin, Vittoria and most of the others are using.

The pigmentation doesn't do the latex any good and IME seriously reduces the useful life of these inner tubes rendering them brittle over time.

Keep in mind that most latex inner tubes don't last too long if presented with the slightest burr on the rimbed or around the valve hole. I'd recommend the use of Velox rimtape or, better still, Veloplugs as hard plastic rimtape is often the cause of premature punctures.

The best overall would be a butylized natural latex inner tubes (along the lines of AIR-B or Gommitalia's inner tubes used for their line of tubulars) as these would offer all the pro of latex without the loss of air typical of latex.

BTW, Michelin has lighter than 85g latex inner tubes made for 18-20mm tyres but these are really hard to find. Another popular trick to loose weight is to use a latex inner tube from a shot tubular or one that's made for 650C wheels.
Quite often latex inner tubes for 700C up to 25mm are about an inch too long which doesn't make installing them any easier.

Every Michelin I've gotten quickly fails at the juncture of the latex and the rubber around the base of the valve stem. I'll pump it up, and 10 minutes later "whooosh" its flat, with a 5 mm hole at that juncture. I've got about 6 flat tubes I've collected, all failed the exact same way. Michelin latex tubes are useless as far as I'm concerned.

Hi,

Oh so typical.
This is the achilles heel of the dreaded Michelins especially if the valve hole is not deburred or just a tad rough.
If you must use Michelins put some tape over the valvehole and puncture it to pass the stem through it.
Of course it doesn't hurt to do the same for any other latex inner tube either...
You can still patch the shot ones I guess but all in all I flat more often on Michelin latex inner tubes than on anything else, be that butyl or latex.

Ciao,

_________________Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

Last edited by fdegrove on Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

I've also noticed as others have commented, that with with latex tubes, they are so elastic and thin, that your rim and tape has to be perfectly flawless. Any imperfection or the smallest of splits/holes/rough spots can cause the latex to blow a hole. After trial and error over the years I use a plastic michelin tape and then velox over the top or two layers of velox and have never had a problem with the vredestein's.

I have the Michelin Aircomps (77g) on my Ksyrium SL's, no rimtape, Conti GP4000 front, GP rear. About 4000km in all sorts of conditions. No flats yet. Just the typical latex airloss, but I always top my tires off before a ride anyway. Haven't checked how much they loose on a long ride [makes mental note]. I also put a small piece of tape on the valve hole and pushed the valve through.

This tip saves you at least 30-35garms per wheel set in rotating mass!

I also have very good experience with the Veloplugs on the rims that have spoke holes drilled thru both sides (not like the Ksyrium and Eurus wheels). Veloplugs save more then 12grams on a 28-32 spoke rim and make tyre fitting more easy.

Plastic rim tape is out of the question I never use this. If rim tape then it is Velox cotton!

Back to topic.Several Michelin A1 latex inner tubes I already ride for longer then a full year! They survive easily over the Veloflex Black Open Tubular or Michelin Pro2Race Clincher!

I do not experience much flats at all. Once in 6000km Is my average over the last 5 years (that is significant less then my training friends using butyl).

My oldest Latex Michelin inner tube in use is over 5 years old now! It is in my rear winter wheel that I ride on wet roads. I did repair this one 4 times (which is no problem at all) I simply use Simson Solution and Simson small patches of 15mm diameter (look at: http://www.simson.nu/producten.asp ). Never had the experience of a brittle latex inner tube, that fdegrove is writing about. Not even if it was in use for a longer period and lots of km/miles.

Michelin had one bad series of the Latex A1 inner tubes these are easy to recognize since these had blue valve stems.

I do ride over 15.000 km a year and only use latex inner tubes. Until half a year ago I only used Michelin and I never did experience one of the problems that are mentioned in this thread. I did try out the Challenge Latex over the last six month and I am very satisfied until now no flat at all! I like the Challenge because they are seamless an a bit lighter.

This tip saves you at least 30-35garms per wheel set in rotating mass!

My training bike has heavy 25mm clinchers, mudguards and lights, so rim weight is not an issue and I really want the extra weight on my training/commute bike to be honest. I Might try some veloplugs though as the velox tape does begin to rot after a few months and eventually splits over the spoke holes commuting to work on wet British roads - This is the main reason why I use a Micelin plastic rim tape under the velox because it doesn't rot and offers a second line of defence! Problem with the Michelin though is that it's not very good at high 120+ PSI!

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