Crispy, creamy cauliflower-leek gratin

Published 4:00 am, Sunday, January 17, 2010

Roasted Cauliflower and Leek Gratin in San Francisco, Calif., on January 13, 2010. Food styled by Julia Mitchell.

Roasted Cauliflower and Leek Gratin in San Francisco, Calif., on January 13, 2010. Food styled by Julia Mitchell.

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

Crispy, creamy cauliflower-leek gratin

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A weeknight dinner of tacos on the fly hardly needs a recipe, if all it involves is a pile of warm tortillas, whatever meat you might have on hand, and salsa. But if you're looking for tacos with more of a healthy focus, or ones with a larger proportion of fresh vegetables than rich protein, it takes a little more thought.

My husband recently came up with an easy slaw to go on top of roasted chicken we planned to tuck into thick handmade tortillas from the corner market. He tossed shredded cabbage with coarsely chopped cilantro, onion and avocado, which was so ripe it almost melted into the other ingredients. He doused it all in lemon juice and added just enough oil to bring it together. It was a delicious addition to the chicken - which we ate cold, with tomatillo salsa separating it from the slaw and a squirt of Valentina hot sauce on top - and I thought it would be even better with white fish, in a riff on the Baja fish taco.

In this version, the fish is broiled rather than battered and fried, so the only fat involved is the healthy kind from the fish itself, and there's none of that distinctive mayonnaise sauce - but you could easily make it, if you like, by thinning mayonnaise with lime juice or vinegar. The other components borrow from the traditional fish taco toppings of cabbage, avocado cilantro, onion and salsa. The dish is fresh and simple and will probably become a staple in our house.

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On the other end of the spectrum is the Roasted Cauliflower & Leek Gratin, a rich winter vegetable casserole that you can serve as a main course with salad or as a side dish for a roast, such as a beef or pork loin. The problem with serving it as a main course, which we did recently after adding strips of ham to the roasted cauliflower and leeks, is that you will want to eat too much of it. Anything involving cauliflower, cheese and white sauce encourages just one more bite, and then another.

This is especially true when the cauliflower has a meaty texture from being roasted before it is covered in sauce and cheese. The roasted leeks push it over the edge. Separated into thin squares, they get crispy and golden around the edges, adding deep, caramelized oniony flavor and the occasional unexpected crunchy bite. After one night of this, it might be time to go back to the restrained fish tacos.

Roasted Cauliflower & Leek Gratin

SUNDAY SUPPER Dinner in 90 minutes (1 hour active time)

Serves 4-6 as a main course, 8 as a side dish

Roasting the leeks and cauliflower (which you can do well ahead) brings out deeper flavor and a crisp-around-the edges texture. Serve as a side dish with roasted meat, or as a main course with salad and bread. If you don't feel like making the white sauce, gently warm 1 1/2 cups of cream in a saucepan until bubbles form around the edges, then stir in the cheese and season with salt and pepper. Pour it over the vegetables.

Roasted vegetables

2 small heads cauliflower, about 3 pounds untrimmed

4 tablespoons olive oil

-- Kosher salt and pepper to taste

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 large leek

Gratin

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 tablespoons flour

2 cups low-fat milk

1/2 cup (generous) grated Parmesan, gruyere or Manchego cheese

-- Kosher salt and white or black pepper

1 teaspoon whole-grain Dijon mustard

1 to 2 ounces ham, cut into baton shapes (optional)

1/4 cup breadcrumbs

To make the roasted vegetables: Preheat the oven to 400°.

Cut the cauliflower into florets that are 1 1/2 inches wide. In a large bowl, toss the florets with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, and spread out on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast until tender with just a bit of bite and browned, 35-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic after 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, remove the coarse dark tops of the leek and cut lengthwise. Wash thoroughly, then cut each half into 2-inch lengths, discarding any more dark green ends and checking for hidden dirt.

Separate the layers and toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and some salt, then spread out on another large rimmed baking sheet and roast until crispy in some parts and thoroughly soft throughout, about 15 minutes. (You can roast the vegetables several hours ahead and refrigerate before completing the dish.)

To make the gratin: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 3-5 minutes, taking care that it doesn't brown. Whisk in the milk until smooth, then bring to a simmer. Maintain the heat so it's bubbling gently; stir often until the sauce thickens and the flour cooks, about 15 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of the Parmesan and stir until just melted. Remove from the heat and season well with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard.

When the vegetables are done, reduce the oven temperature to 350°. Toss the vegetables with the ham, if using, in a 13- by 9-inch baking pan, such as a Pyrex. Pour the sauce evenly over the vegetables. Combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining cheese and sprinkle over the top.

Bake until bubbly and lightly browned, 20 minutes. If you like, run the gratin briefly under the broiler to brown well. Serve warm.

Fish Tacos With Cabbage Salad

FAST&FRESH Dinner in 30 minutes

Serves 4

Though not a Baja fish taco, this recipe takes a few flavor cues from tradition. The taco components go equally well with leftover shredded cooked chicken (cold is fine) or reheated braised pork or beef instead of fish; allow 1/2 to 1 cup cooked meat per serving. For a vegetarian version, the tacos are great stuffed with baked tofu, beans or chunks of roasted winter squash. You can also serve the fillings on prepared tostadas instead of tortillas.

To prepare the fish: Preheat the oven to broil. Place the fish on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil, season well with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the cumin. Place about 4 inches from the broiler and cook until deeply flaked and no longer translucent in the center, 6-8 minutes, depending on the fish. Separate into chunks and keep warm, wrapped in the foil.

To prepare the cabbage salad: Combine all of the ingredients in a medium bowl, stirring until the avocado sort of melts into the dressing, if it's ripe enough. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add more oil if needed to bring the ingredients together.

To serve: Quickly distribute the fish to the warm tortillas, topping each with a few tablespoons salsa. Top with the cabbage salad and drizzle with hot sauce. Serve immediately.

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