The two main misconceptions about Utah are that it is a dry state, and that it's a flat, featureless desert. You can certainly buy a beer and, although the land is pretty bereft of any undulations to the west of Salt Lake City, the Wasatch mountains to the east offer some of the most exciting skiing and boarding in the US.

Park City, about half an hour's drive from Salt Lake City airport, makes a good base, as most of the resorts are easily driveable from here. And all of them can be accessed using one booklet of passes - the Ski Utah Passport - allowing you to choose the terrain to match your mood, from easy blue runs, to steep and deeps and cross-country.

Park City: for snowboarders

Located on the edge of the town itself, Park City Mountain Resort has four terrain parks to try, ranging from beginners' level to aerial masters. In December, week-long snowboard camps cater for all abilities with prices from around $400pp, including lift pass. But Park City is not all about snowboarders - it's teeming with wide open runs for skiers and boarders alike. And there is so much terrain to choose from, you could easily spend a few days trying out all the runs. There are also some stunning views, particularly from the top of McConkey's lift and our lunch stop at The Summit House.

The Canyons: for steeps

The varied terrain means that mornings can begin with gentle blue runs to get the legs working, before hitting some blacks like Mystic Pines, and leg wobblers like Abyss. Like many of Utah's resorts, eating out is cheaper than in France or Switzerland - and the portions are much more generous. The Lookout Cabin offers great burgers as well as glorious 180-degree views.

Deer Valley: for novice skiers

If the sound of a snowboard sliding towards you sends shivers down your spine, you'll be pleased to know that boarders are banned from Deer Valley's slopes.

Group lessons are limited to four people. But the quality service has to be paid for: half-day group lessons cost around $105pp, and accommodation at The Lodges hotel ranges from $140-$200pp per night.

Those looking for something more challenging will find a good spread of blues and blacks lying across four main mountains. Bald Mountain offers intermediate skiing, along with some ungroomed runs for the more adventurous; Flagstaff is mainly intermediate with some gentle green runs; Empire Canyon is best for familes; and Bald Eagle mountain, close to the Silver Lake Lodge, is well placed for post-lunch runs.

Alta: skiers' paradise

Alta is rather old school - and proud of it. Like Deer Valley, this is a boarder-free zone. People have been skiing here since 1938 and there's a reassuringly traditional feel about the place. Even the intermediate runs wind through spectacularly untamed scenery, with no on-mountain restaurants.

It's the advanced stuff that draws expert skiers here in their droves: you'll find a host of off-piste blacks - including Eagle's Nest, North Rustler and Greeley Hill - that run right down into the main car park, while further up, the likes of Baldy Shoulder, East Castle and Sidewinder will challenge even the most experienced.

Lessons here are much cheaper than at Deer Valley: a two-hour group lesson costs around $42pp, while a private session costs $140pp for the same time. Lift passes cost around $40 per day.

Snowbird: off-piste

If you've never been heli-skiing before, this is a fantastic place to try it due to the quality and quantity of powder snow. Contrary to popular belief, it's not an experts-only sport. Wasatch Powderbird Guides (+801 7422800, powderbird.com) only asks that skiers are proficient at snow-ploughing and traversing, and that boarders are able to kick-turn and side-slip. The day consists of around seven runs, but it's not cheap: $630pp, including breakfast and lunch.

If this is beyond your budget, the regular pistes at Powderbird are almost as spectacular.

Sundance: big country cosiness

An enormous amount of effort has been spent on making Robert Redford's Sundance blend in with its background. Individually designed cottages and studios (from $295) are built out of rough-hewn wood and stone, and filled with Native American artefacts. Bolt the door, light the fire and you can believe you've escaped the rest of the world. Perfect for a romantic break.

The ski area is much smaller than the other resorts in the region, but there's a good mix of blacks and blues, and around 15 miles of groomed trails at the nearby Cross Country Ski Center, which also offers night skiing.

Ski deals:

Ten years ago, North American ski brochures were full of cowboy hats and garish day-glo ski suits. A lot more of us went to the US than Canada, and holiday prices were higher than today. Since then, resorts have started take notice of the lucrative UK market and - aided by good currency rates - now want to encourage us by giving tour operators better prices than ever before.

Ten years ago, Canada was in its infancy as an international ski destination. Now it accounts for 65% of the British market going to North America. The important comparison lies between last year's and this year's prices.