Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Airbrushing Part 2, different kits & parts

I'm warning you now that airbrushing will take a few days, so bear with me. For those of you who don't have a Copic Airbrush System (ABS) you'll want one after a week of relentless posting about all the cool things you can do with them. Remember, all this info is available from the Copic Library, as well as setting up the other two airbrush kits. I strongly suggest you download it and read through as I step through each process.

Q. Which Airbrushing set should I get?A. It depends on how you will be using it. ABS-2If you just want to try airbrushing before jumping into a larger system or you need a really portable system without much fuss, use the ABS-2. Uses Aircan D60, which hooks directly into the air grip.Pro: This gets you started with our smallest, most basic system. Con: The Aircan D60's don't hold much air and just when you figure out how cool it is it runs out. This can be an expensive way to airbrush.ABS-2 includes: Air Grip, aircan D60

ABS-1If you want our complete, most cost-effective system without buying a compressor, then you should get the ABS 1. This lets you use our larger, more efficient Aircan 80 and Aircan 180.Pro: Cheapest unit without a compressor, larger aircans last quite a while before you need to replace them.Con: You're still throwing away an aircan. After you've gone through 5 of the large aircans you really should start looking at getting a compressor.ABS-1 includes: Air grip, air adaptor, air hose 1/4 to 1/8, aircan 80, and air can holder

ABS-3If you already own a compressor, then use the ABS 3 set. You’ll need to get an adaptor to match your air compressor to our 1/8 inch hose fitting. This set-up will work with almost any compressor that can go between 40 & 60 psi, as long as you can match the hose fitting.Pro: Never buy another can of airCon: Compressors come in all sizes, costs, and levels of noisiness. Choose a compressor carefully since it is a long-term investment.ABS-3 includes: Air Grip, air adaptor

Whichever set-up you get, be aware that the parts are modular. If you start with an ABS 2 and you realize that you want to use the larger aircans you don't have to buy an ABS 1, just the rest of the parts to make an ABS-1. Also, all the parts except the aircans will last a long time (until they are damaged) so you're not looking at something that you'll eventually have to throw away.

Q. What does each part do?Air Grip: This is the main part of each airbrush system. This holds your marker and has the spraying trigger. To change a color you pop it into and out of this grip. The air sprays out of the little metal nozzle and across the tip onto the paper. There is nothing to clean-up and you never have to replace this part unless it breaks.

Air Adaptor: This evens out the airflow from either an aircan or from a compressor. The Air adaptor looks like an aircan with a bolt stuck to the bottom. If you remove the plastic cap there is a thin metal stem that screws into the air grip. You can use this part for years and years, as long as it doesn't get punctured. (I had one that was caved in because the compressor fell on it and crushed it. It still worked fine, it just looked really bad)Aircan Holder: This is a thick piece of foam that holds your aircans upright. Very handy, since you do not want your aircans tipping over during use or else they will spill compressed air into the hose and cause spitting and splotching. Each hole is cut to accurately hold one of the sizes of aircans.Airhose 1/4 to 1/8: This is the Airhose that comes with the ABS-1. It only works with Copic aircans, and is needed for proper use of the Aircan 80 and 180. One end has a large metal piece with a valve, the other end is a small, simple fitting. Does not work with a compressor

Airhose 1/8 to 1/8: This needs to be purchased seperately, and is an airhose for hooking the air adaptor up to a compressor.Both ends are a small fitting (not pictured). Does not work with aircans.

Aircans: Under each plastic lid is a tall metal stem. Keep the cap, since you want to protect the stem from getting bent when not in use.Aircan D60 lasts 7-8 minutes. D stands for Direct, since this is the only aircan you can use directly into the air gripAircan 80 lasts 20 minutes.Aircan 180 lasts 45 minutes. Aircan 80 and 180 are extra-compressed aircans and either one should be used with an airhose.

Q. Why does the Aircan D-60 hold less air than the other cans?A. The Aircan D60 has a built-in regulator that allows it to be used directly in the air grip. The other size aircans need an Air Adaptor to regulate the air pressure. Because the adaptor is built in, it takes up space. If the aircan were much larger it would be uncomfortable to hold, so there really is not enough room inside to hold the air and the regulating parts. Also, the air is not as pressurized, since it is going straight through the built-in regulator.

Physically you CAN attach an aircan 80 or 180 directly into the air grip. However, this splatters and spots each time you tip the aircan becuase you're directly spraying compressed air across your page and it has no air adaptor to even out the pressure or flow. It really looks bad and is unpredictable in the spray pattern.

Decorated EggsFor a quick final project today, here is an egg that I airbrushed. I used BG32 as my base color, then with the brush end of a V17 and a G28 I added larger speckles through the airbrush system. With the airbrush system this is super easy and fun (Notice that I'm holding the egg with the lid for my aircan).

I think they would be safe to eat - The markers are non-toxic, and they are alcohol based dye. They won't soak through the shell, but I would really try NOT to eat the airbrushed area out of principle (and eggshells are kinda gross).

I am new to the Copic airbrush system. I purchased it this Christmas and I am very frustrated with the splattering of some of the darker markers. I have done traditional airbrush, so Maybe I am just use to more control. I checked you trouble shooting section and tried all your recommendations for correcting it, but did not have any good results. I feel it is definitely the marker since not all of the markers are splattering. Any more suggestions?Thank you. This looks like a great site I will delve into for more tips.

I have always wanted one of these! Thanks for writing about it! Thanks for the article! It was a lot of good info. I am researching air composer Silent air compressors is largely proprietary knowledge, so the manufacturers do not usually advertise precisely how the noise reduction is accomplished in order to discourage copycats.Very efficiently written information. It will be beneficial to anybody who utilizes it, including me. Keep up the good work. For sure i will check out more posts. This site seems to get a good amount of visitors. thanks for share

Very efficiently written information. It will be beneficial to anybody who utilizes it, including me. Keep up the good work. For sure i will check out more posts.Nice to read your article! I am looking forward to sharing your adventures and experiences. master Flow

About Me

I am the North American Product Director for Copic Markers, working at Imagination International, Inc. I have written 4 books on coloring with Copics in conjunction with Colleen Schaan. I used to design stamps for Our Craft Lounge. The things I post on this blog are my personal opinions or techniques I have come across over the years- I will try to give credit where credit is due. These ramblings do not necessarily reflect the general opinions of Copic Markers/Imagination International Inc.
my direct e-mail is marianne@copicmarker.com

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Copic Glossary

ABS/Airbrush System- Copic Airbrush System. Works with either a compressor or Copic aircans. Uses either Sketch or Copic Markers. 1234TroubleshootingAlcohol Markers- Copic markers are alcohol (ethanol) based dye markers, that are known for being low-odor and giving smooth, vibrant colors. Since they are a dye, they will fade in bright lights, but they are acid free on most surfaces. Anything with alcohol in it will react with these inks. Any Copic marker type is refillable with replaceable tips. They will not cause paper to pill when going over it many times, nor will they dissolve photocopies.

Color Saturation- This is the first digit on a color name. Colors that are 00's, 10's, or 20's will be more vibrant (B05, G16, R29), while colors that are in the 70's, 80's or 90's have more gray added (B95, BG78, G94) and are closer to the neutral/earthy end of the color spectrum. Note: E (Earth) markers don't necessarily follow this rule.

Color Group- A sequential group of colors within one color family with the same first digit (i.e. E30, E31, E33, E34, E35, E37, E39) where numbers ending in 0 are the lightest and 9 is the darkest, also called Natural Blending Group

Copic Certification- These are classes for teachers, store owners, or designers who want to learn techniques and advanced tips on using Copic markers, Airbrushing, etc. for papercrafting. Each class is about 7 hrs, and will be held regionally. Check here for listings of upcoming classes.

Spica Glitter Pens - also called atyou Spica pens. These fun, pigment based pens are filled with micro glass flakes, giving a very subtle, elegant sparkle. Keep stored flat, though if they are giving you troubles, try storing them point down overnite.

Various Ink- Also called Refill Ink or Re-inkers. Each bottle holds 25 cc's of ink. 322 colors available, empty bottle for mixing custom colors also available. Great for making alcohol ink effects, such as Faux Stone or covering large areas. When you see streaking in your work it's time to refill. You can refill directly from your bottle of ink, or you can use a booster needle. Try not to overfill.For refilling dry markers:Ciao- add 1 to 1.5 cc's ink Sketch- 2 cc's Copic 2-3 cc's Wide 3-4 cc's

Using this site for Classes

The content from each post is intended as tutorials and directions as well as useful information. If you would like to use these tutorials in a workshop you are more than welcome to, just give credit to this blog site and other suppliers mentioned in each post.

Thank You!

Marianne

Color Disclaimer

Colors on the screen do not match colors printed in color charts, and neither will match the marker colors in real life. To get a feel of what the colors will look like it's best if you get an actual color swatch.

To request a printed color chart, general catalog, Stamping with Copic Brochure, or Airbrushing with Copic Brochure you can e-mail orders@copicmarker.com (remember, printed charts aren't accurate)

Save a tree, get it digital!For digital copies of the above brochures please look through the Copic Library. Don't see what you need? e-mail me at marianne@copicmarker.com

Check the library also for refilling guides, airbrushing set-ups, and other useful literature.

Click here to purchase your favorite Copic Products

Books by Marianne Walker

These books are stand alone guides for anyone who wants to learn more tricks for coloring with their markers. All images to color are in the back of the book, along with color charts and guides. Each book is printed in English and Español SRP $9.95

Shadows & Shading: A beginner's guide to lighting placementThis book is for teaching you where to accurately put shadows and highlights when coloring with any medium. Includes clear lighting guides to help you plan where to place your shadows & highlights. Distributed by Copic/Imagination International, Inc.