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this is the variable pulsation bypass valve. it allows for the pump to pulsate and cause the hose to vibrate. makes it easier for the hose to advance when needed or pull back when stuck. truthfully a foot pedal will also help with making the hose move.

the knob at the right upper side is the regulator / unloader pressure adjustment. normally set around 4000#. usually adjust it slightly higher so that the pressure remains 4000 and only starts to bypass after that. doesn't matter what size nozzle you're running. your rpm dictates flow and unloader dictates pressure. higher rpm = higher flow and that = higher psi as needed with larger nozzles.

next time i see you, on with the wax and off with the wax. bring a lunch, it's going to be a long day

rick.

Lucky you Plungerman having the GURU come and educate you. Hey Rick if you can post a photo of the foot-valve please.............!!!!!!!

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Fired it up,gauge read 4k and lots of water, or enough,
and then blasted these two pieces of wood. The 1 on left was the root ranger and the hole in the 1/2 Inch plywood was the warthog. RR was for about 15 sec, warthog about 20 sec.
My friend was worried, about me hurting myself because it was so intense.
I'm digging my new toy. Now gotta set up those root jobs.
Thanks Robert

k still not sure but let me try.
the lever is is a ball valve
the long skinny black knob is regulator/unloader,, that is (preset at factory) to unload 6 gpm when the engine is reved up to the highest rpm (preset at factory), thats when i get 4kpsi.
so when i adjust the bypass valve (the front dial) and get 3kpsi im bypassing more water.
and if i leave the controls set at the max for 4kpsi while engine running at the factory max if i rev down the engine do i lose psi AND gpm. or just psi. sorry if way off.

grasshopper, that's the on with the water off with the water ball valve. (the high pressure discharge)

when i see you next we'll practice with the on with the wax and off with the wax. that's after you use your new spray gun and lance on my van with reduced pressure and a 40 degree nozzle so as not to blast off the paint on my sprinter. it needs a good wash and wax after 3 days of light rain.

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k still not sure but let me try.
the lever is is a ball valve
the long skinny black knob is regulator/unloader,, that is (preset at factory) to unload 6 gpm when the engine is reved up to the highest rpm (preset at factory), thats when i get 4kpsi.
so when i adjust the bypass valve (the front dial) and get 3kpsi im bypassing more water.
and if i leave the controls set at the max for 4kpsi while engine running at the factory max if i rev down the engine do i lose psi AND gpm. or just psi. sorry if way off.

robert, there should be detailed instructions with your machine. but in general to the way the bypass/ pulse valve operates, it basically bypasses water from 1 of the 3 cylinders. this causes what's similar to a misfire in a 3 cylinder engine. the water will pulse as 2 cylinders are producing full pressure and flow while the other 1 is pretty much bypassing the water.

the rule of thumb is to lower the rpm to drop the gpm and therefore the psi. this will put less wear and tear on the pump and rest of the machine. i drop my big 18 gpm/ 4000 psi machine to 1500# outlet pressure when in pulse mode.

truthfully a foot valve will accomplish almost the same thing without having to run back and forth to the machine. if you want to save some money, use your spray gun as a valve. pretty much identical valve, except you now have a hand running the valve and have to work the hose with your other hand.

if you get pretty creative, you could fabb a jig to hold the gun valve is an upright position and attach a pedal to actuate the valve handle with your foot.

but honestly once you have a real foot valve, you will rarely need the pulse feature as you can twist and turn the hose as needed and pulse the foot valve. plus this gives you a fail safe emergency dead mans valve

read all the owners manuals and see if there is a max psi rating while in pulse mode. also the pulse valve is variable based on a needle valve design.

don't worry, i have 5 vehicles that need waxing. plenty more q & a to come

rick.

phoebe it is

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Thank you so much for that. I was so excited to get it going that maybe the pages after it stopped explaining how to start and stop it said that. I'll get on that.
I'll get that foot pedal next week but will probably only use it for inside jobs. I haven't used a foot pedal on the my rooter machines in years.
Studs don't use foot pedal, like you huh rick.
Do you like the eagles new home?
Did you notice the shelf I built around it and the circular cut out for the main line machine. I'll post another pic. Can you please praise me, please, please. All this grasshopper on off stuff is hard in a way. Lol
Thanks again. Very much appreciated.
Robert

Attached Files

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actually i do use a foot pedal or a local jumper hoes shut off valve on the portable machine. the trailer has the remote control and panel mounted water shut off. plus i also have the remote engine kill.

i'll give you credit that you've given it 110%. between reading writing and hopefully your arithmetic, you'll pass with honors. then 1 day you'll have others applying the wax for you

but you still need to read the owners manual since you now have a better understanding of the machine. it will all make sense then.

graduation will be when you land a big job and you make money without getting hurt or damaging equipment and property

Comment

robert, there should be detailed instructions with your machine. but in general to the way the bypass/ pulse valve operates, it basically bypasses water from 1 of the 3 cylinders. this causes what's similar to a misfire in a 3 cylinder engine. the water will pulse as 2 cylinders are producing full pressure and flow while the other 1 is pretty much bypassing the water.

the rule of thumb is to lower the rpm to drop the gpm and therefore the psi. this will put less wear and tear on the pump and rest of the machine. i drop my big 18 gpm/ 4000 psi machine to 1500# outlet pressure when in pulse mode.

truthfully a foot valve will accomplish almost the same thing without having to run back and forth to the machine. if you want to save some money, use your spray gun as a valve. pretty much identical valve, except you now have a hand running the valve and have to work the hose with your other hand.

if you get pretty creative, you could fabb a jig to hold the gun valve is an upright position and attach a pedal to actuate the valve handle with your foot.

but honestly once you have a real foot valve, you will rarely need the pulse feature as you can twist and turn the hose as needed and pulse the foot valve. plus this gives you a fail safe emergency dead mans valve

read all the owners manuals and see if there is a max psi rating while in pulse mode. also the pulse valve is variable based on a needle valve design.

don't worry, i have 5 vehicles that need waxing. plenty more q & a to come

rick.

i will get a foot pedal next week, i also got a ball valve and pressure hose to jump my 3/16 to, and a trigger gun with a lance and some nozzels, i bought 3, 2 cheap one and a 40 dollar one, got those from envirospec, good tip,very cool co.
will read my manuals tonight
thanks again
rober