Saturday, January 28, 2012

Burda World of Fashion 11-2008-133

I am so happy to have this dress finished. Have you ever had one of those projects?This is BWOF 11-2008-133, from the plus section. It's a shame all the best details are hidden in the photo:

You really have to look at the line drawing to see all the great details: the awesome pleated collar and the funky seaming.

So here's my finished version made in a blue and black "leopard" ponte knit from Hancock Fabrics.

I cut a 44 from shoulder to hip and a 46 from hip to hem. I made my standard petite adjustment by folding out 3/8" above the bust, and added 1.25" of length at the waist.

The dress turned out way too big. I should have graded down to a 42 on top and traced a 44 on the bottom, but I was lazy.

I ended up taking in all four princess seams about 1/4" and the center front about 5/8." It worked out okay. I did get a tiny bit of rippling at the underarm curves, but it's not too noticeable. Taking in the CF also raised the V-neck a bit, but I like where it ended up. The pattern featured a godet in back, but for some reason, I just felt like it didn't really "go" with this dress. So I left it off and left a back walking slit instead. I also left out the zipper. Duh- it's a knit. Oh, and the dress is drafted long. I chopped 5" off the bottom before hemming to make it knee length and I'm average height.

My photographer thought it would be a good idea to climb a hill to take pictures.

And then we climbed higher...

At least I get to show the dress in action.

Almost at the top.

The dress was kind of a pain to put together. I'm not one to complain too much about Burda instructions, but the lack of diagrams really put me at a disadvantage with this pattern. I could not for the life of me figure out how they wanted the collar pleats to go together. I played with it and folded it this way and that for a couple of hours. I even slept on it last Saturday night. Finally, I just did what I thought worked. It turned out okay. It looks like the line drawing, so I must have been close.

I recommend staystitching the curved edges of the front and side back (at the underarm) and then clipping the curves when you stitch them to the side piece. Burda doesn't mention doing this, but it made that seam much easier to sew.

Artsy shot:

I was so tired of working on this and so happy to have it done. I wore it to work last week to road test it and it performed great. It was comfortable, and in my opinion, it's flattering. I still feel like it's a tiny bit big on me (the princess seams are still too far apart at the bustline,) but perhaps a trip through the washer and dryer will help with that. I'd rather have it a bit loose than a bit too tight anyway.

After wearing it, I decided it might be nice to make the tunic version. ( I know, I know, it was a pain to make, but now that I've done it once...) I really like what this dress does for my shoulders. Something about those pleats at the collar really works for me. And wouldn't the top version of this make an excellent alternative to a t-shirt or sweatshirt on weekends?

In other sewing news, I finished up the Burda knit jacket yesterday. Stay tuned for a review of that one soon.

The Sewing Workshop has a pattern with a similar neckline, the Teagarden Tee. I've made it many, many times -- I agree, that neckline is very flattering on you. Did you have to sew the collar bits together down the center back, then fold and sew a sort of pleat that holds the upper collar to the undercollar and hides the raw edges?