Brilliant route. Led 1 and 3. Pitch 1 a little thin at the bottom but you quickly get onto the good ice. Pitches 2 and 3 were awesome, steep in places but brilliant axe and crampon placements and good ice screws. Thank you very much to the guys that let us go past them.

Brilliant route. Led 1 and 3. Pitch 1 a little thin at the bottom but you quickly get onto the good ice. Pitches 2 and 3 were awesome, steep in places but brilliant axe and crampon placements and good ice screws. Thank you very much to the guys that let us go past them.

Caked in fresh snow from overnight storm. I managed to lose a crampon whilst seconding Katie up the first pitch. She lowered me back down to fetch it - eventually located c.150 vertical metres below. Soloed up to join her in cave, where she was suffering the worst hot aches ever. Pete did second pitch and I the last one. Traverse out from belay was a bit marginal and the ice above wasn't taking ice screws, so ended up effectively soloing that pitch too. A hard-won tick but a great adventure in challenging conditions.

Caked in fresh snow from overnight storm. I managed to lose a crampon whilst seconding Katie up the first pitch. She lowered me back down to fetch it - eventually located c.150 vertical metres below. Soloed up to join her in cave, where she was suffering the worst hot aches ever. Pete did second pitch and I the last one. Traverse out from belay was a bit marginal and the ice above wasn't taking ice screws, so ended up effectively soloing that pitch too. A hard-won tick but a great adventure in challenging conditions.

Lead P1 up to ice cave. How long will those pitons last?
The second pitch has a possible belay on the left across a dry slab that involves a horrible traverse. Better with 60m ropes to carry on straight over the ice bulge to a better belay on easier ground at the finish. Down the Ledge Route. My first Scottish IV lead - excluding Tower Ridge (which is different). Oddly after my first Scottish V lead!

Lead P1 up to ice cave. How long will those pitons last?
The second pitch has a possible belay on the left across a dry slab that involves a horrible traverse. Better with 60m ropes to carry on straight over the ice bulge to a better belay on easier ground at the finish. Down the Ledge Route. My first Scottish IV lead - excluding Tower Ridge (which is different). Oddly after my first Scottish V lead!

Was glad I got the 2nd pitch, as the 1st and 3rd were a little thin/ rotten in places! (I made Stefan do the rotten bits...)
End of 2nd pitch (traverse to Belay) now quite thin, with lots if 'freshly departed' ice.

Was glad I got the 2nd pitch, as the 1st and 3rd were a little thin/ rotten in places! (I made Stefan do the rotten bits...)
End of 2nd pitch (traverse to Belay) now quite thin, with lots if 'freshly departed' ice.

Abbed off from the second belay as we'd run out of time. First pitch had some rotten ice. I led the second which was solid apart from the traverse to the belay which was very sketchy (ice had melted off the slab).

Abbed off from the second belay as we'd run out of time. First pitch had some rotten ice. I led the second which was solid apart from the traverse to the belay which was very sketchy (ice had melted off the slab).

Got up early to be the first on the route. The ice is in great conditions but it is very stepped out. Took a variation of the line at the end of the second pitch and went straight up unhooked steep ice rather than heading left along the line of hooks.

Got up early to be the first on the route. The ice is in great conditions but it is very stepped out. Took a variation of the line at the end of the second pitch and went straight up unhooked steep ice rather than heading left along the line of hooks.

Wanted to do point 5 that day, but that was too crowded so we did this instead. Super warm and wet, but still fat enough to be climbed (by us and about 8 other parties! - fairly crowded belays!). Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good fun!

with Paul Nairn

Wanted to do point 5 that day, but that was too crowded so we did this instead. Super warm and wet, but still fat enough to be climbed (by us and about 8 other parties! - fairly crowded belays!). Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good fun!

2nd-ed P1, all good but tough on the calves. Belayed out on the left to make next pitches shorts. Led P2 (joined with P3). Water running down steeper sections, but short lived, with excellent exposure. Lovely route, worthy of the stars.

with Husky Tom

2nd-ed P1, all good but tough on the calves. Belayed out on the left to make next pitches shorts. Led P2 (joined with P3). Water running down steeper sections, but short lived, with excellent exposure. Lovely route, worthy of the stars.

Led 1st pitch which was hollow and fairly bold, got a couple of hexes to the RHS and a screw before the first cave (that I had to dig out to get at the insitu tat). Drew led 2nd pitch that was even bolder. Some better ice in places (a couple of screws placed), hollow with holes in other places). Over to ledge route (loads of snow on it) for descent.

with Drew Connelly

Led 1st pitch which was hollow and fairly bold, got a couple of hexes to the RHS and a screw before the first cave (that I had to dig out to get at the insitu tat). Drew led 2nd pitch that was even bolder. Some better ice in places (a couple of screws placed), hollow with holes in other places). Over to ledge route (loads of snow on it) for descent.

A quality day, The ben looking magnificent in its winter coat. The first pitch a little thin and run out but solid, superb climbing on the next two. A busy day out on the hill with many people enjoying the fine weather.

A quality day, The ben looking magnificent in its winter coat. The first pitch a little thin and run out but solid, superb climbing on the next two. A busy day out on the hill with many people enjoying the fine weather.

Climbed rather out of condition, so the first half of pitch 1 was scratchy, insecure climbing on rock: well done Tom. Next pitch was great, but much thinner than in the photos I've seen: stepping round on to the steep ice wall on poor axes was a bit hairy, but made up for by superb exposure to the (2 rusty pegs + a nut) belay. The final short wall rounded it off nicely: a great salvage of a day so claggy we couldn't find the Comb!

with Tom Whipple

Climbed rather out of condition, so the first half of pitch 1 was scratchy, insecure climbing on rock: well done Tom. Next pitch was great, but much thinner than in the photos I've seen: stepping round on to the steep ice wall on poor axes was a bit hairy, but made up for by superb exposure to the (2 rusty pegs + a nut) belay. The final short wall rounded it off nicely: a great salvage of a day so claggy we couldn't find the Comb!

Dangerous amounts of snow around so settle for this as its short and accessable. Getting to the foot of the route is hard grind in the snow. The route goes OK but belay off the top down lower part of Ledge Route to get into no. Five gully. The latter avalanches - The slope avalanches as I climb down it - tipped upside down but held on rope above. Thankful we belayed!!

with Paul Gale

Dangerous amounts of snow around so settle for this as its short and accessable. Getting to the foot of the route is hard grind in the snow. The route goes OK but belay off the top down lower part of Ledge Route to get into no. Five gully. The latter avalanches - The slope avalanches as I climb down it - tipped upside down but held on rope above. Thankful we belayed!!

Climbed in full conditions! Desperate descent down No.5 gully and lost Bob on the walk out. Gavin & Dudley meanwhile retreated from high on Observatory Ridge and were helicoptered off the ridge on their next attempt, when Dudley fell and was left swinging in space!

with Bob Milward

Climbed in full conditions! Desperate descent down No.5 gully and lost Bob on the walk out. Gavin & Dudley meanwhile retreated from high on Observatory Ridge and were helicoptered off the ridge on their next attempt, when Dudley fell and was left swinging in space!