Finding the good life on St. Maarten

A tropical island paradise that's half French, half Dutch

By Debbie Olsen, For the Calgary HeraldSeptember 14, 2009

Life was good. I had been on the Caribbean island of St. Maarten less than four hours and my winter "big hair" problem had almost completely disappeared thanks to tropical humidity. As I slowly buried my toes deep in the powdery white sand of Mullet Bay beach and watched the cerulean blue surf gently lap the shoreline, I realized that this spot pretty much filled all my criteria for an island paradise.

There are 37 beaches on this tiny island, but a tip from a friendly local had led me to this one. The gentle surf and brilliant blue water of the bay are ideal for swimming, and the coconut palms and sea grape trees bordering the white sand provide the perfect shade to enjoy a picnic or to relax with a good book. While the rest of the tourists crowded around the more popular clothing-optional Orient Beach on the opposite side of the island, I was fortunate to enjoy a little peace and quiet in a place frequented mostly by locals.

St. Maarten is a 63-square-km island that has a multitude of offerings when it comes to beaches, restaurants and recreational activities.

It is as multicultural a place as you'll find anywhere, because the French and the Netherlands share a border on this tiny island, making it the smallest land mass divided by two sovereign nations in the world.

There are more than a hundred nationalities on the island. What this means for visitors is that Sint Maarten, as they call it on the Dutch side, or Saint Martin in French, has something for everyone.

I spent a few days living like a local to gain insight into this Caribbean paradise. Here are a few recommendations:

Life's a beach

St. Maarten/St. Martin is famous for its tranquil blue waters and caramel sand beaches. On any given day, you will see cruise ships and luxury yachts moored off the shore of this island, which boasts 37 of the best beaches in the Caribbean. There are beaches for swimming, snorkelling, walking, jogging, partying or people watching, and searching for the right beach can be a great way to spend your vacation.

Mullet Bay: This favourite local beach on the Dutch side of the island is easily accessible and borders the only 18-hole golf course on the island. Enjoy gentle surf, powdery white sand, and the shade of sea grape trees and coconut palms.

Friar's Bay: A family-oriented beach during the day as well as a popular nightspot. There are three beach restaurants that have theme nights and live-music evenings and legendary full-moon parties. North of the French capital, Marigot, it must be reached overland through Cripple Creek.

Dawn Beach: The snorkelling is incredible at Dawn Beach on the reef just off shore. The beach has soft white sand, good shade nearby and a view of St. Barth in the distance. On the east side of Dutch Sint Maarten, it is a little out of the way, but worth a visit. Be sure to visit Mr. Busby's Beach Bar, where beer is only 75 cents.

Orient Beach: This is probably the most popular beach with tourists, and it is also the island's only official "naturist" or clothing-optional beach. There are more than a dozen restaurants and a number of bars that line this stretch and it is the place to go if you want to kite surf and do other water sports.

Dining out

Billed as the Dining Capital of the Caribbean, it's almost a crime to go all-inclusive on this island. There are more than 350 restaurants and cuisine ranges from Vietnamese to Creole.

Johnny Under the Tree BBQ: This funky outdoor barbecue restaurant features picnic tables under a tree in Cole Bay. For under $10 US (all prices in US dollars), you can enjoy fresh grilled lobster, baby back ribs and barbecue chicken with traditional beans and rice. Don't forget to ask for a Johnnycake to go with your meal.

Antoine's: This restaurant is located by the sea and serves up fine sophisticated cuisine on the Dutch side of the island. It boasts an impressive wine list and the service is outstanding. Dinner entrees average $25-$35 each and the service is first-class. (Phone: 599/54-22964)

La Vie en Rose: This French restaurant is appropriately located on the French side of the island and offers classic French cuisine with Caribbean overtones. Dinners are elaborate and service and presentation are exceptional. The mango soup is a must-try item. Dinner entrees range from $24-$44. (Phone: 599/87-54-42)

Recreation

Golf: Mullet Bay Golf Course (Phone: 599/545-3069) is the only 18-hole championship course on the island. It is located on the Dutch side near Mullet Bay beach. A hurricane damaged the on-site hotel, but the course is still maintained and offers club rentals and a pro shop. It will cost about $100 for 18 holes, including a cart.

Hiking and biking: Tri-Sport rentals (Phone: 599/545-4384) offers bike rentals, maps and directions for several local trails. There is a vast network of hiking trails on the island.

Deep-sea fishing: There are a number of businesses that offer deep-sea fishing. Try Lee's Deep Sea Fishing (599-544-4233). You can have your catch cooked at Lee's Road Side Grill.

If You Go:

- St. Maarten enjoys an average temperature of 27 C year-round.

- It is easiest to get to

St. Maarten through Toronto. A seven-night return airfare and hotel package from Toronto will start at $1,450 Cdn depending on the dates of travel. Contact your travel agent for pricing for your dates.

- For information on Dutch

St. Maarten, call the

St. Maarten Tourist Office at

1-416-622-4300, e-mail stmaarten@melainecommunications.com or visit the website at www.st-maarten.com. For information on French St. Martin, visit: www.st-martin.org or call 877/956-1234.

- From St. Maarten, it is easy to catch a ferry to neighbouring Caribbean islands only five minutes to an hour away, such as Pinel, Anguilla, Saba and

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