Vera Wang / Fall 2012 RTW

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The foundation of Vera Wang’s personal style is supersoft, slouchy shirts and cozy leggings, so it’s only natural that her interpretation of the rigidity that’s been showing up on New York runways would be softer than that of her peers. If she’s not interested in living and working in constricting clothes, why would she expect, let alone encourage, other women to be?

Wang’s always had a keen understanding of the female psyche (see: bridal business), and her fall collection, in part, served the dualities that can coexist there: should we be hard or soft, covered up or revealing? Wang’s answer: all of the above. Her starting point was Gothic architecture, which influenced the way she cut the fabrics—sharp, structural triangles of lace on a long-sleeved top—as well as the fabric itself—shiny jacquard custom woven in a graphic geometric pattern. She used the jacquard in steel gray for a form-fitting sheath worn with a supple fur hood and in green so dark it read black for a strict tunic that was balanced by fluid, sheer chiffon pants. It was done in a brilliant sun-gold that was a reminder of how wonderful Wang can be with color, but those pieces, seen during a preview of the collection, didn’t appear to have made the final cut. What really stood out, though, as it consistently has, was the outerwear. Wang makes a fantastic, sophisticated parka, and that’s just the truth. Even in a season shaping up to be strong for coats, Wang’s oversize camel-wool vest and simple gray jacket with giant black fur lapels were some of the best.