What Should You Eat at Sao Mai?

May 30, 2012

This week , Counter Culture floats into Sao Mai (“Morning Star”) a newish Vietnamese restaurant in the East Village, and maybe the best Vietnamese restaurant in town. Here are the dishes most recommended for the first-time visitor, renditions unique in the city for their freshness and subtlety of flavoring.

5. Papaya Salad (Goi Du Du, above) — Shredded carrots and green papaya form the basis of this crunchy salad, with Vietnamese mint providing a extra zap to the tongue in concert with fish vinegar and mint. And yes, those raw red chiles on the periphery are pretty hot, and crushed peanuts provide extra k-k-k-krunch.

4. Banh Cuon (Steamed Rice Crepe) — I cannot imagine a better brunch dish than these light rice crepes (most in town are made with an omelet wrapper instead; not nearly as good). The filling is mushrooms and minced pork, and fried shallots give the dish extra character.

3. Banh Mi Pho — This sandwich handily merges two completely unrelated Vietnamese standards: the soup called pho and the sandwich known as banh mi. Whether you love it or not, you’re sure to be intrigued.

2. Com Suom Nuong (Grilled Pork Chops) — The chops are sliced thin, charcoal grilled, then glossed with a sweet sauce. Nothing better for a picnic in the garden, seen here dappled with sunlight. Comes with pickles and greenery for wrapping the meat morsels up.

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1. Pho Sao Mai — The house special pho features brisket, eye of round, and beef balls, served with roughage that includes sawtooth cilantro and holy basil.