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I was flying my Prism QPro is too strong winds and one of the gusts snapped my ferrule in half . Both lower spreaders (SkySharks 5Ps) are OK.

One part is still in the female side (I am fairly certain I can get it out with a long rod) but I am having trouble getting the ferrule out of the male side. I tried immersing the ferrule and part of the spreader in boiling water for about 30-60s and using pliers to loosen the ferrule - but to no avail.

It was me who posted in the linked post. I ended up using a propane blow torch moving it constantly until I had heated the rod sufficiently. Just be careful not to overheat it because it will crack the rod. A heat gun would work too. They are really inexpensive through harbor freight.

A drill could possibly work with a hollow ferrule as the drill bit would be self centering in the hole. Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.

Have not ruined a tube yet using a propane torch to soften the glue and piano wire to pop out the ferrule. Have not done this on the clear coated Black Diamonds yet and flame may harm the finish. Wrapping with aluminum foil first may be the thing. Have to try that...

...Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.

Not really. Start with a thin drill, then work progressively fatter. I usually find the heat from the drilling friction will melt the CA glue before you get close to a ferrule sized drill anyway. As the glue melts, the ferrule starts to spin inside the spar. The drill bit grabs the remaining ferrule material and everything pulls out nice and neat.

Worst case scenario... a new spar and ferrule from Chris cost less than what most people pay for lunch and a coffee

...Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.

Not really. Start with a thin drill, then work progressively fatter. I usually find the heat from the drilling friction will melt the CA glue before you get close to a ferrule sized drill anyway. As the glue melts, the ferrule starts to spin inside the spar. The drill bit grabs the remaining ferrule material and everything pulls out nice and neat.

Worst case scenario... a new spar and ferrule from Chris cost less than what most people pay for lunch and a coffee

Ah, yes the heat from the drill. Cool, a new technique I can use. The trick in most methods then is to heat the glue sufficiently be it boiling water, heat gun, drill friction, propane torch.

Sometimes no amount of flame, boiling water, heat guns or soaking in acetone will break the joint loose.

After trying once or twice, if it hasn't come loose, I've learned it's best just to get a new stick and ferrule......

Could be you'll save your sail rather than having a suspect rod in the kite............

I found out the hard way.......believe me.

Jim

I've been in this boat, too. The amount of time I spent trying to soak, boil and drill out the old ferrule was disproportionate to just ordering a replacement from Prism. Buy two, while you're at it, you never know when you might need to replace it again!

I've never broken a solid .2400 ferrule. Seems like that would be pretty unusual. The center T would go first in many cases. Either way, you'd have to be really abusing the kite. Usually odd breaks like this are due to the spreaders pulling out of the center T.

If I did beat up on a spreader enough to get a broken ferrule out, I probably wouldn't use the stick in a high stress application. Swap it for the ULE (if they're the same) with the battered end in the nose where no one will see it.

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