The potato was most likely
introduced to North Africa by the Spanish.
The acceptance of the potato into local cooking was probably made easier
by the similarity between the potato and the native tirfās, or North
African truffle (Melanogaster variegatus). In fact, another tuber, the sunchoke (Helianthus
tuberosus), is called tirfās, originally a Berber name, in North Africa. This
preparation is particularly good with Kalmār 'Aṣbān(stuffed squid) and is often served with many dishes in Algeria. An Algerian potato purée should not look like
our mashed potatoes; it should have a near-fluid Cream of Wheat consistency. This style of potato purée also appears in
Majorca as puré de patata: a smooth creamy purée often mixed with grated
Mahon cheese, a cheese from Menorca
with a sharp Parmesan-like taste. And in
the Valencian province
of Castellón a thicker
potato purée is served with swordfish.

Yield: Makes 4 servings
Preparation Time: 45 minutes

2 pounds russet baking potatoes

1/3 cup hot whole milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup freshly grated Gruyère
cheese

Salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste

1. Wash the potatoes, place
in a large saucepan, and cover with 1 inch of cold water. Turn the heat to medium and once it comes to
a boil, in about 20 minutes, cook until a skewer glides easily to the center of
the potato, about another 20 minutes.
Drain the potatoes, peel once cool enough to handle, and pass them
through a food mill back into the saucepan you cooked them in. If you don't
have a food mill it is better to mash by hand with a potato masher rather than
an electric mixer or food processor, which will make the potatoes gummy.

2. Beat in the milk, butter,
and cheese a little at a time with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat the potato purée over medium heat,
stirring with a wooden spoon until it gets hot.
Or keep warm and covered until needed.

Clifford Wright is a versatile fellow. He won the James Beard Foundation’s top cookbook award a couple of years ago for his historical opus, “A Mediterranean Feast.” But he also wrote one of my favorite quick cookbooks, “Cucina Rapida.” In his newest book [Real Stew], Wright calls upon his scholarly credentials and his practical side to produce a collection of classic stews from around the world. The introductory notes for each of the 300 stews reflect Wright’s knowledge of history and world cuisines. But the recipes themselves — from Nantucket Scallop Stew to French Cassoulet to Kenyan Chicken and Coconut Stew — are straightforward and appealing. - Margaret King, San Diego Union-Tribune