As far as plug wires i prefer MSD super conductors or Spiro Pro wires from Summit Racing . High quality wires last much longer than the straight carbon core junk that sucks up moisture right away . Also prefer NGK spark plugs . CP Performance also sells an impeller that is impervious to about everything and can be run dry and will not fry .PN# 17149.....

I always talk to new engine owners with the old starting statement" If it ain't broke, don't fix it" scenario. Pay attention to the details! Good preventive manitenance is a must, but kinda check things and look at age and hours before you just go changing things for the sake of changing. Don't forget to check and service the impellor, change the fuel water seperator and look at the age and condition of the spark plug wires. You can ohm out wires to check for breakdown and leakage or you can fire up the engine at night in the dark and look for arcing along the route of the plugwires. If these are original 97 wires then new good 7-8mm silicone premium sparkplug wire sets are good and use the dialectric grease on the boots to help keep out moisture and allow easier removal later on if needed. Take of the distributor cap and look at its interior condition and the rotor also. If they are worn and carbon tracked, obviously bad or cracked replace them. If they clean up nicely with cleaner and look good, put them back on and use them unless you have an obvious misfire from them. Also if the plugs are old, then replace them and properly gap and lubricate the threads and install them carefully to avoid breaking the ceramic cores of the plugs and do not overtighten them, number one and two reasons for new plugs being bad! Clean the flame arrestor, lube the throttle linkage lightly and clean the throttle blades in the throttle body if they are dirty and gummed up. Add some ethanol treatment to the fuel tank and change any fuel filters in line with the engine.
Don't forget to lubricate the gimbal bearing, drive coupler and change the drive lube automatically with good premium Bravo drive fluid. Obviously do an oil and filter change and make sure you use an oil that may have been used all along, ie., on a 10 year old plus engine if synthetic, stay with synthetic, if conventional, stay with conventional. Also take a good look at hoses and belts for cracking , slipage and obvious damage and wear as they always seem to fail at the most inconvienent times. Just give the whole engine a good close look over for obvious telltale leaks, breakage, corrosion and the like. Clean and retighten any corroded connections especially on ground wires and make sure all connections are tight and moisture and corrosion free. This is what I would call a good once a year preseason check over and service and will help keep your seasons use problem free and safe. Lot to do EH! Yep thats why a good marine mechanic and shop really earn their pay if they are good and thorough!