Buying tablitas: Tablitas are sold at Mexican meat markets such as La Michoacana, Hispanic supermarkets such as Fiesta Mart (where they are sometimes labeled beef short ribs), and at some mainstream meat markets. They are typically no thicker than a half-inch. You can buy them plain or marinated at Hispanic markets for $3.49 to $4.49 per pound.

The same cut of meat is sold under the name flanken ribs at mainstream meat markets and specialty supermarkets with large meat departments staffed with butchers, such as Central Market. The flanken ribs are cut to order; to grill them tablitas-style, ask for them to be cut about a half-inch thick. The flanken ribs are priced a little higher, about $5.99 per pound.

Plan on 3/4 to 1 pound per person; although that sounds like a lot, much of that weight is bone — and fat, which cooks off.

Seasoning: If you buy plain (not marinated) tablitas, lightly season them with a mixture of equal parts salt, pepper and granulated garlic, ground together in a mortar and pestle to break the garlic granules down a bit. Another option is to use a barbecue dry rub or a fajita seasoning.

If you buy pre-marinated tablitas, no prep work is needed.

Preparing the grill: If you are using a gas grill, preheat it to medium high.

If you are using a charcoal grill, it’s a good idea to bank all the coals to one side of the grill so that you have a cool side to move some tablitas to prevent burning in the event of flare-ups.

Cook’s Illustrated offers this guideline for judging medium-hot heat when cooking with coals: Hold your hand 5 inches above the grate; if your hand can stand only 3 to 4 seconds over the heat, it is medium hot.

When the grill grate is hot, be sure to scrub it clean with a wire brush. Using tongs, wipe it with a wad of paper towels soaked in vegetable oil so that the meat doesn’t stick to the grate.

Grilling the tablitas: Place the tablitas directly over the coals and grill until the underside is well-browned but not burnt. If the meat is cut 1/2-inch-thick, this will be about 4 minutes per side; for a thinner cut (such as the pre-marinated variety) it may be only 21/2 to 3 minutes per side. It’s OK if there are some charred edges and the bone marrow blackens, but the surface of the meat should be browned and appear juicy. Use tongs to flip the meat. ChefTerry Chandler uses a custom-made long-

handled meat hook to move the tablitas; it’s similar to the Pig Tail Food Flipper, which is available through Amazon.com.

Chandler says the meat is done when the juices begin to pool on the surface about 3 or 4 minutes after flipping. If you cook it too long, it will char and dry out.

“It’s like bacon,” Chandler says. “You want it well-cooked but not burnt.” He adds that cooking tablitas runs counter to your steak-cooking instincts — there’s no high-heat searing, and medium well is the ideal, so forget about medium or medium rare.

An important aspect of cooking tablitas is managing flare-ups. Because of the high fat content of the meat, flare-ups are likely as the fat cooks off and drips into the fire. When this happens, either move the tablitas to another part of the grill or, if you are using a gas grill, lower the heat. If the fire is too hot, you can also close the grill to cool it down.

Serving tablitas: You can eat the meat with your hands or have guests remove the meat from the bones and put it in tortillas (have forks and knives on hand for this). Serve with a salsa, such as salsa tatemada, if you are eating taco-style; if eating with your hands, pop open a can of jalapeño pickled carrots, as Chandler suggests. Either way, have plenty of paper towels on the table for guests to help themselves.