How to Zest an Orange. Or a Lemon. Or a Lime.

It’s not like grating cheese.

Citrus zest shows up in recipes more often than usual this time of year. Gingerbread, fruitcake, stollen, and various other holiday treats usually call for a little grated lemon or orange peel to add a subtle citrus flavor.

But you can’t just go at it like you’re grating a hunk of cheddar. You have to keep a few things in mind to maximize the flavor of your citrus zest and prevent bitterness. Slate’s food and drink editor shows you how.