Squishy tacts for dpad and buttons. Side actuated switches for triggers, I haven't figured out how to do them yet but hey, something will show up

This board I'll cut in half and connect by header, to get the height difference between squishy tacts and analog stick. I've no idea how it'll work out, my brain's pretty bad at 3d

Charging solution(?): tp5100 2s 1.5a charger module (sink mode). Plus: under- and overvoltage and -current protection board + 2s balancing thingy, HX-2S-JH10. Should give me a charge+play solution since the tp5100's charge only
Made a huge order of m2 and m3 spacers and fasteners, both nylon and brass. My plan is to secure them to the board along the edges, then fashion a z axis with epoxy and tiles that fit into the slots at the edge of the boards. I've got tiles to fashion a bottom side of the thing as well

PCB cost: $100 including shipping for enough stuff to make five each of at065tn14 and a070sn01 versions. TPA6011 and TPS56528 can be got from china at about $1 each, and the teensy can be had for around $9. The LCD's can be had for $15-$20 each, plus cost for controller board

Will update when I get the stuff and/or any of it makes for fun reading

To leverage the Teensy and reduce number of buttons, we can use it to control the standard rtd2660 boards with 5 button inputs. The inputs are read by the pcb800099 by a 6-bit adc pin pulled up to 3.3v, while a resistor network connects to the different button inputs. To wit,

By pulling down multiple resistors to ground, we should get a few more values to work with, for instance driving [source] + [---] low would give us 24 or thereabouts at the ADC pin, which the ADC should be able to discern from neighbor values. The teensy does 5v logic of course, but I figure I should be able to set the pins connected to the resistor network to high impedance input pins, so writing to the data direction register will respec the pins straight from high impedance to active low, and back again.

"What's the point," you ask? Well, putting the teensy in charge of input to the LCD controller means I should be able to navigate the OSD with the dpad and buttons, by a toggle of some sort to switch between modes. If I can get it to communicate with the board reliably, I should also be able to make the OSD keep track of battery levels, backlight level and volume, either by coopting pins from the lcd controller board or doing it from the teensy.

Turnaround with express DHL shipping: about four days or so, entirely acceptable. Thoughts:

lmao this is fun

1.2mm is a pretty good pcb thickness for this.

making the notches slightly larger than the side connecting slot things was a good idea, but 10 mill would have sufficed. Notches connecting front panel to z axis tiles need to be bigger though, about 2mm or so

I will still be waiting a while for the standoffs and fasteners and chips and stuff, so it's not quite lego o'clock yet. I'm not convinced this was a bad idea yet though I've worked up a healthy dissatisfaction with my charge-and-input solution, so there's work to be done.