Lindsay Elkins
Contributing Editor

Age gracefully? Not today’s consumer, who often seeks anti-aging advice from her dermatologist who, more often than ever these days, markets his or her own line of products. According to Karen Doskow, associate project manager at Kline & Company, sales of professional skin care products rose 13% in 2007, with anti-aging products leading the category.

“When you look at the general skin care market, it is up only 5 or 6%,” said Ms. Doskow. “The professional skin care market is growing at more than double that rate.”

Fountain of Youth

With the ever-youthful Hollywood starlets shown daily on the big and small screens, consumers are always looking for the next big thing to cure fine lines, wrinkles and a means to supplement results obtained from in-office procedures, such as Botox, at home. According to the Freedonia Group Inc.’s new Cosmeceuticals case study, age-defying products will achieve above average growth, with gains driven by a fast-expanding group of middle-age consumers, as well as a growing number of younger individuals who want to prevent visible damage. All of these consumers may choose from a wide range of technologically-advanced formulations hitting the market this year.

“Topical alternatives to in-office procedures, such as wrinkle fillers, relaxers, microdermabrasion and laser stimulating products, are a trend in the professional skin care category,” said celebrity dermatologist Fredric Brandt.

Dr. Brandt recently expanded his best-selling Lineless collection with the introduction of Lineless Foaming Cleanser, a non-drying facial cleanser with a low pH and skin conditioners that gently dissolves makeup and impurities, without stripping skin of its essential moisture. Formulated with Dr. Brandt’s signature cocktail of antioxidants, which include green and white tea and grapeseed extract, this cleanser protects from free radicals, helps restore a smooth appearance to skin, and protects collagen and elastin.

Anti-aging concerns aren’t just limited to the face. Our bodies undergo the same type of abuse from skin damaging UV rays and environmental aggressors and can incur fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration. Dr. Brandt wants to keep consumers young from head to toe with the introduction of Microdermabrasion Body. It contains aluminum oxide crystals to polish, soften and exfoliate; lactic and glycolic acid to regenerate cells and moisturize skin and Dr. Brandt’s antioxidant cocktail of green and white teas and grapeseed extract.

Dr. Brandt’s Microdermabrasion Body contains aluminum oxide crystals to polish, soften and exfoliate; lactic and glycolic acid to regenerate cells and moisturize skin, as well as the doctor’s own antioxidant cocktail of green and white tea and grapeseed extract to protect skin from free radical damage and the loss of collagen and elastin.

According to Dr. Brandt, precious metals such as gold and platinum and semi-precious stones such as tourmaline, malachite and rhodolite were once used only in the medical field but are now being incorporated into topical creams for their skin-saving benefits.

Kinerase, a unit of Valeant Pharmaceuticals, helps consumers turbo-charge their existing anti-aging routine with its new HydraBoost Intensive Treatment, a concentrated formula that contains four potent hydrators to attract moisture, prevent water loss and enhance the effectiveness of moisturizers. A 25% concentration of hyaluronic acid provides enhanced water-binding capabilities, while malachite extract protects skin cells from oxidative damage.

Howard Murad, an authority on skin health and a pioneer in the clinical skin care movement, introduced two new products this year that contain Durian Cell Reform, an anti-aging complex combining durian extract, a super fruit found in Southeast Asia used for centuries as an herbal remedy, and glycolic acid to promote beauty and skin health at the cellular level.

“Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is the basis for every product that bares my name,” explained Dr. Murad. “Our recipe of powerful antioxidants, skin soothing anti-inflammatories and moisture-boosting hydrators is essential for improving skin texture and elasticity, while reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”

IS Clinical, Glendale, CA, an exclusive clinical skin care brand, added to its collection of results-oriented skin care formulations this year. Super Serum Advance is the second generation formula of the company’s popular Super Serum and contains a 15% concentration of a new form of L-ascorbic acid that is more stable and is able to be absorbed into the cell over time. Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor tells cells to grow, differentiate and heal while mushroom extract, a natural form of kojic acid, evens hyperpigmentation and skin’s overall tone. According to Kline’s Ms. Doskow, addressing hyperpigmentation is an area that is trending upward in the professional skin care.

SkinMedica combines two treatments in one with the launch of TNS Essential Serum, a dual chamber anti-aging serum to fill and smooth fine lines, strengthen skin’s ability to regenerate, fight environmental damage and lighten and brighten age spots. This professional-grade serum features APS Corrective Complex, a potent mixture of three peptides and seven antioxidants, including Ergothioneine, a natural amino acid with super-antioxidant properties that protect against free radical damage.

Avon sought the expertise of board-certified dermatologist Dr. Cheryl Karcher to launch Clearskin Professional Acne Treatment System. The three- item line is said to prevent, treat and control acne.

green products is growing. According to Mervyn Becker, president of Professional Solutions, a marketer of natural face and body care products sold exclusively through dermatologists, plastic surgeons and medi-spas, professional anti-aging skin care is moving in the direction of natural, pure formulations.

“Patients are becoming more educated and increasingly concerned with ingredients,” he said. “They are looking for products with scientifically documented formulations that are results-driven.”

The company recently launched Skin Stem Cell Serum, an anti-aging serum utilizing liposomes derived from the stem cells of rare Swiss apples that prevents and treats signs of aging including fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. It can also be used as a post-surgery treatment to enhance the effects.

Aveda, which has a long history of developing plant-infused hair care formulations, branched out into the anti-aging sector with the May launch of Green Science. This extensive range includes a line minimizer, lifting serum, face crème, eye crème and in-spa facial treatment. Key ingredients include certified organic argan oil, a fatty acid replacement and lipid replenishment to help restore skin’s moisture barrier; certified organic cactus, which inhibits the destruction of collagen and stimulates collagen synthesis; glucosamine to smooth and exfoliate skin and boswellia, an anti-inflammatory that helps protect against elastin inhibitors. In clinical studies, 41% of patients experienced a more lifted appearance and 37% saw a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles over a four-week period.

With approximately 17 million Americans suffering from acne, consumers often seek out professional or dermatologist-developed products in lieu of value-priced drugstore offerings.

Derm Insists, ‘Go with the Pro’

“Having the knowledge that products were developed by someone specializing in the particular needs of skin and the constant changing needs of individuals and their skin as a career, not developed by a scientist in a lab, is a differentiator between dermatologist-developed skin care and those that are found at mass,” said Dr. Brandt.

Avon introduced Clearskin Professional Acne Treatment System in August to prevent, treat and control acne in a three-step system. Consisting of a cleansing scrub, toner pads and correcting lotion, the regimen contains ingredients proven to fight all stages of acne—before, during and after a breakout. Zinc hexapeptide-11, exclusive to Avon, restores the balance of sebum in oil-prone skin, salicylic acid clears and prevents blemish formation and glycolic acid smoothes and retexturizes skin. Avon also enlisted the help of board-certified dermatologist Dr. Cheryl Karcher to serve as the Clearskin ProExpert.

IS Clinical’s Pro-Heal Serum Advance contains a potent blend of vitamins C, E and A and olive leaf extract to reduce inflammation and treat rosacea and acne (even cystic acne), while soothing, healing and protecting skin from environmental aggressors.

Let There be Light

At-home devices that mimic in-office procedures, such as Light Emitting Diode (LED) hand-held units, are a big trend in professional skin care this year according to Dr. Brandt. Consumers have no shortage of options with handheld LED introductions from several companies, including Omnilux and Tanda.

The Tanda Professional Skincare System is an at-home LED hand-held unit with two interchangeable heads—Tanda Clear to treat acne and Tanda Regenerate to fight the signs of aging.

The Tanda Clear 414nm blue LED treatment is scientifically proven to naturally, gently and safely kill the bacteria that cause mild to moderate acne. Used as part of a daily skin care routine, Tanda Clear helps cure existing blemishes and prevents future outbreaks in patients with mild to moderate acne, according to the company.

Tanda Regenerate is a 660nm red LED treatment that diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by accelerating the skin’s natural healing process and stimulating the production of collagen for skin rejuvenation. Used daily, Tanda Regenerate combats the signs of aging by creating a dermal environment that aids in slowing down the production of enzymes that cause skin tissue to break down, resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

Omnilux new-U is a hand-held LED device that is particularly effective at treating periorbital wrinkles with alternating red and near infrared light. Omnilux combination phototherapy works with the body’s own natural processes to counteract the signs of aging. The different light colors target the specific cells responsible for the synthesis and repair of skin’s supportive structures.

An All-Encompassing Approach

According to Dr. Murad, a big trend is inclusive health and ethnobotany, which provides a link between cultures and uses of plants.

“Wrinkles are just the outside, we have to look at what’s inside,” said Dr. Murad. “Are we overweight, are we not sleeping as well? All of these symptoms tend to occur together; wrinkles are just the outward sign.”

Dr. Murad opened his Inclusive Health Center and Spa to address the link between internal, external and emotional stressors with dietary, topical and emotional self-care solutions. Patients are said to experience a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, an increase in energy and metabolism, stronger hair, nails and connective tissue and improved digestion and circulation.

Drugstores Go Pro with Olay Pro-X

P&G’s Olay brand is giving professionals a run for their money with the launch of Olay Professional Pro-X range, which is being positioned as a professional skin care line for the mass market. With a price tag of $62 for a starter kit, these are Olay’s most potent formulas to date, with all but one of the items utilizing a new proprietary peptide, Pal-KT, said to increase hydration while also building collagen and elastin.

Olay Professional consists of six fragrance-free items, three of which are deemed as hero products—Age Repair Lotion with SPF 30, Hydra Firming Cream and Wrinkle Smoothing Cream. The other three items target specific anti-aging needs with Deep Wrinkle Treatment, Discoloration Fighting Concentrate and Eye Restoration Complex. Results can be seen after one month of use, according to the company. Olay Professional will be available in drugstores after Christmas, with a full rollout in January.

Keeping to this philosophy, Dr. Murad will introduce Sleep Reform Serum and Supplements next month, which use Repair Enhancing Matrix, developed to increase the depth and duration of restorative sleep, which, according to Dr. Murad, is the best anti-aging cure out there.

“By increasing the body and skin’s ability to sleep better, we can improve collagen proliferation and synthesis and reverse the course of aging,” he said.

Sleep Reform Serum smoothes and plumps for more youthful skin while Sleep Reform Supplements help reduce nighttime disturbances and hydrate and protect from free radical damage skin incurred during the day with pomegranate extract and essential fatty acids.

The numbers don’t lie; consumers are turning to professional skin care products to tackle everything from aging to acne—they’ll even turn their bathrooms into makeshift doctor’s offices with high tech at-home treatments such as handheld LED units. Though the economy may have a slight impact on the growth of this sector, Kline & Company’s Ms. Doskow predicts the future to continue to be bright for professional skin care.