We have a division in our company that has been doing drywall since the early 80's, as well as knowing many, many other drywallers in our area.

Neither we, nor any one of them have ever used, nor been required to apply adhesives for sheetrock. That includes it not being listed as part of any installation procedures in the hundreds upon hundreds of plans that we have reviewed over the years -(Residential, offices, apts, condos, hospitals, schools, industrial, etc....)

We have never had any failures on walls because of this. It is also not required by any codes in our area.

We have a division in our company that has been doing drywall since the early 80's, as well as knowing many, many other drywallers in our area.

Neither we, nor any one of them have ever used, nor been required to apply adhesives for sheetrock. That includes it not being listed as part of any installation procedures in the hundreds upon hundreds of plans that we have reviewed over the years -(Residential, offices, apts, condos, hospitals, schools, industrial, etc....)

We have never had any failures on walls because of this. It is also not required by any codes in our area.

As stated, it's a regional thing.

Whatever works. I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.

Whatever works. I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.

I don't know where you hang your sheetrock, but in our region, Building Codes require one screw every 12", regardless of adhesive use (Building Code Materials Fastener Schedule).

I have done projects in various parts of county. Some use glue, others don't. I subed out the drywall on my basement project. The "standard" from the sub I went with was glued, nailed at top edge and screwed. I didn't even question it.

Our area (central Iowa) requires 5 in the field, and 6 on ends, glue doesn't change the mechanical fastener req's. I had a house '73 version that had the glued drywall, with 2 screws in the field. Nearly every sheet in the house had loose drywall...meaning you could push the drywall back to the stud. A kitchen reno revealed that the glue held tight...the paper though let go of the DW. Every sheet had a stripe on the back where every bit of paper pulled off where it was glued to the stud. I pray they are making the DW better these days! I was never sooooo glad to get out of a house....every corner brought another joyful nugget....

I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.

Hi Jerry,
I'm not sure if I'm understanding you right. Are you saying you attach 4' x 8' drywall to a ceiling with 2 screws and on walls with one screw, not counting the edge screws? BTW, how many screws do you put on the edges? And what would thickness of sheet rock are you using?

Hi Jerry,
I'm not sure if I'm understanding you right. Are you saying you attach 4' x 8' drywall to a ceiling with 2 screws and on walls with one screw, not counting the edge screws? BTW, how many screws do you put on the edges? And what would thickness of sheet rock are you using?

1/2" 4' X 12' sheets mostly. 5/8" in garages with common walls. Yes, a good bead of glue with two screws in the field(3 w/ 24" o.c. ceilings) and one on the walls. The edges usually get two on the first sheet and three on the sheet that butts against that. I know this goes against what most fastner schedules call for, but in the 30+ years my father hung drywall and the ten I worked with him, we never received a complaint about the quality of hanging or the methods we used. Of course this was only with straight and true walls. We always increased the fasteners if needed(bowed, twisted, damaged, excessive insulation, thick strike plates.) And again, this is only one method from one person. People have to use whatever they feel comfortable doing and what their local code calls for.

This is very true. On wide houses with truss roofs, we usually hold back the screws near the interior walls 16". This allows a little truss uplift and prevents the corner tape from splitting between the wall and ceiling. At least that's the way it's supposed to work.