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EJ25 crank wobble

Long story short my car ran out of fuel yesterday and it was stumbling and all that, anyways I filled it up but for the past 24 hours I got misfires on all 4 cylinders..

Then I stopped at auto zone to clear the ECU and I get on the highway, just as I get on the highway the belt for the alt, PS pump snapped so I go and check and the crank is wobbling (I have a video) The bolt was not loose at all so I'm a little baffled by this. I ended up coming directly home, again keeping the tools in the rear is a smart thing to do, I was checking voltages on the way home and I was down to 10.6 V

The curiosity got the best of me I ended up taking it off now and what I see is odd.. the bolt was not backed off but the inside of the pulley was very worn :-/ like it was not fully set on the key or maybe the key got pushed in too far? Maybe someone can tell me how the key should normally look on the crankshaft.

I just ended up cutting the AC belt since it was the fastest and I'm going to replace both belts anyways.

to answer your question, MAYBE as the bolt loosened the pulley moved and ''wedged'' itself tight in between the bolt head and the key way. maybe, idk.

but you need a new pulley and i would replace the key.

and i would remove the sprocket and examine it and the rest of the key way. i know it is more work but at least then you will know it is all good.

i would then put it back together with the sprocket and pullet lined up correctly and torque the crap out of it.

as shown by the damage to your pulley, the key is not designed to hold the pulley (or the sprocket) in place, the key only lines up the pulley and sprocket. the bolt holds it in place. and the damage to the crank keyway, if any, is in the loosening direction, not the tightening direction. so the new key will do it's job as you torque it.

since you will be torquing the crap out of it you might consider a new bolt.

Yeah I think something the last owner did caused this because I've never seen it like that before.. Might be rather hard to get off the crank sprocket, I should of cleaned it up with a scotch pad, I already have the part number for the key..

For google search purposes since I never found anything searching google for the key part number it's 804505060.

Yeah I think something the last owner did caused this because I've never seen it like that before.. Might be rather hard to get off the crank sprocket, I should of cleaned it up with a scotch pad, I already have the part number for the key..

For google search purposes since I never found anything searching google for the key part number it's 804505060.

Since I'm going do the front motor, I figured would be a good time to get the new crank sprocket + key + a new bolt

and both new center TB cover and Left side TB cover and new gaskets for the TB cover.

I wonder.. I don't have my lightweight pulley here yet but I think looking at the backside of the pulley the key notch should run from the front to the rear of the pulley right? In that case then it must of been from the last owner not doing the crank pulley right I wonder why I never noticed it when I did the HG last year.. I'm guessing the Torque of the motor was enough to chip enough of the key so it caused the up/down movement but the bolt still being at 150 ft/lb kept the pulley from free spinning.

Not sure what's going on here.. got the pulley in but the dealer was quick to charge my card but I haven't heard anything back since Friday.. for something that's "most always in stock" for two simple things I thought it would of been a lot quicker..

given how the key is not really that bad I could get away with it but I want to take the crank sprocket off to clean it with a scotch brite pad.

I haven't heard from the dealer about my key & bolt... I just took some macro pictures.. do you think it's ok to use for the time being?

Had to be from the last owner but when the car ran low of fuel the rocking back and forth and the torque on the key must of smoothed out the whole keyway (How that happened who knows)

but I got as close as I could and it does not seem that bad, at least I caught it early but it's been almost a week and I'm still waiting for the new parts.

If I don't hear anything today I'm going to email them.. I don't think they should charge the card if it's not really in stock. I mean I think what Dan Perkins is cool and all but at least my other dealer in Norwalk will order the parts for you and you pay when it really comes in.

take the reluctor gear see the two holes in it use a 8-125 tap and tap those two holes and then you can use a standard puller on it to remove it. When the crank gets worn i peen the end slightly to make it so the pully is tight on crank agian is arkaic but works also i peen the keyway slot to make key a tight fitt agian. And titen the poop outa it with some locktite also while your there check the thrust berring in crank have had a few with bad thrust lately worse on standard cars

I will let you know by tomorrow, btw I emailed the dealer and just as I expected.. the order is magically ready for pickup... I wonder how long it's been sitting for pickup.. Since Last Friday I guess.

Just curious as to why you went with the "lightened" crank pulley. Aren't these pulleys also harmonic balancers so wouldn't you be throwing the dynamic balance off? Also looks like the new pulley has a larger o.d. so you'll be driving all your accessories faster.