I recently acquired an Efel Ambassador 350 coal stove for $150 because the owner sold his house and is moving to Florida. Info on the internet said it was probably manufactured in the early 80's and has a capacity of 41K BTU's per hour burning pea coal. The draft control is via a hand control knob and a thermostatic bulb which controls a plate that is at the combustion air inlet pipe at the rear of the stove.

Everything necessary came with it. The stove cames with grates for burning wood or anthracite pea coal. The previous owner burned wood in it. I took out the wood grate and put in the coal grate. I installed the front and rear vase, installed the left and right locking pieces, installed the front deflector and the adjustable coal hopper plate is set on the middle tabs for pea coal. I have three slicing knives and the ash pan. I do need to get a two pronged handle for lifting the top loading plate and a slip on handle for removing the ash pan. Other than that it's ready to go but I have a question.

I am used to having stove pipe slip OVER the stove outlet. The outlet for this stove is in the rear middle. The outlet has a 6 inch ID and a 6 1/2 inch OD. The inside of the outlet has a plate in it with a 4 inch diameter hole in the center. The 6 inch single wall stove pipe slides INTO the stove outlet very snugly, not over it, and goes right up against this plate. When I check soot marks inside the stove outlet ( he burned wood ) I can see that the previous owner did exactly that. He put a 6 inch stove pipe inside the outlet, snug against that plate and put a screw in it to hold it in place. It appears to be designed for this type of installation. It appears that as long as the 6 inch pipe is snugged tight against the plate inside the outlet and sealed with high temp silicon, there will be no leakage.

I would love to include photo's but I can't find the patch cord that goes from my camera to the computer.

If anyone has an Efel Ambassador or similar stove and can verify that the stove pipe slips into the stove outlet I would appreciate it.

blrman07 wrote:I recently acquired an Efel Ambassador 350 coal stove for $150 because the owner sold his house and is moving to Florida. Info on the internet said it was probably manufactured in the early 80's and has a capacity of 41K BTU's per hour burning pea coal. The draft control is via a hand control knob and a thermostatic bulb which controls a plate that is at the combustion air inlet pipe at the rear of the stove.

Everything necessary came with it. The stove cames with grates for burning wood or anthracite pea coal. The previous owner burned wood in it. I took out the wood grate and put in the coal grate. I installed the front and rear vase, installed the left and right locking pieces, installed the front deflector and the adjustable coal hopper plate is set on the middle tabs for pea coal. I have three slicing knives and the ash pan. I do need to get a two pronged handle for lifting the top loading plate and a slip on handle for removing the ash pan. Other than that it's ready to go but I have a question.

I am used to having stove pipe slip OVER the stove outlet. The outlet for this stove is in the rear middle. The outlet has a 6 inch ID and a 6 1/2 inch OD. The inside of the outlet has a plate in it with a 4 inch diameter hole in the center. The 6 inch single wall stove pipe slides INTO the stove outlet very snugly, not over it, and goes right up against this plate. When I check soot marks inside the stove outlet ( he burned wood ) I can see that the previous owner did exactly that. He put a 6 inch stove pipe inside the outlet, snug against that plate and put a screw in it to hold it in place. It appears to be designed for this type of installation. It appears that as long as the 6 inch pipe is snugged tight against the plate inside the outlet and sealed with high temp silicon, there will be no leakage.

I would love to include photo's but I can't find the patch cord that goes from my camera to the computer.

If anyone has an Efel Ambassador or similar stove and can verify that the stove pipe slips into the stove outlet I would appreciate it.

Thanks, Larry

You should be fine but I would use furnace cement around the pipe it will hold up better and take the heat better that is a very hot spot here is some info and pats for you stove

Thanks berner....I had already been to that site and looked it over. I was pretty sure it was correct to put it inside rather than over the outlet. Europeans do things just a tad different. My first time with a stove like this.

You should have no problems attaching that way. As usual I would have the CO detector in the room to be sure. I also thing that the HT silicone will work for you although as Berner mentioned, the furnace cement is probably better for that area. It's been my experiance that the silicone requires a couple of apps as the first one will shrink some after you've fired the stove a time or two. I then just reapply and keep an eye on it. While the furnace cement works a bit better it is also difficult to detach for seasonal maintainance where as ths silicone will come apart and clean up easier. Just my 2 cents. Also, you can certainly burn nut size coal in that stove too, if you find you need more output.

Thanks for the information guys. I have always had a stoker and this is my first jump into using a hand fed.

I did a quick test burn last night just using some newspaper, shredded junk mail, lump charcoal and some small (4" long) pieces of 2x4's. I didn't get any smoke from anywhere except the top loading door as it was first starting up. It had a gasket on top of a gasket that was dried out and hard. The top loading plate had also been sealed over with furnace cement. I will have to clean it well and install the correct gasket up there.

I will also have to pay close attention to the thermostatic damper on the combustion air inlet tube. It has an adjusting screw that attaches the flapper to the arm and it appears to have been screwed all the way out keeping it open 100% all the time. The previous owner told me he burned wood in it and I did find scorched nails and screws in the ash pan when I got it. Apparently he wanted max air flow all the time.

It will take quite a bit of experimenting to find the correct adjustment for that flapper.

Anyway, waiting for the temps to get cool round the clock so I can fire this up. Due to the size of it, ( over twice the grate size of my old stove) I will experiment with cutting down the size of the firebox grate area with judicious use of firebrick for the cool, but not yet cold weather.

Ive got a Surdiac that has a similar stove pipe connection. I put a tee pipe into it and drilled 2 holes and put bolts and nuts on them. Then one more with a screw. It aint moving. If I change the tee, I just use the same holes I drilled. I haven't used sealant or cement but that's a good idea.

I just moved into a house with an Efel Ambassador 350. I want to burn wood but the stove was used for coal.I have 2 questions:1-do I need to use the wood grate that I don't have (there is a grate that looks built in) ?2- There is a plate in the back that you can adjust and that I can push back and forth, what is this for and do I need it for wood burning, it takes up a lot of room in the fire box.Okay I have one more question, does anyone know where I can get a free manual for this stove?Thanks, it's getting chilly in the mountains of VA

amypl wrote:I just moved into a house with an Efel Ambassador 350. I want to burn wood but the stove was used for coal.I have 2 questions:1-do I need to use the wood grate that I don't have (there is a grate that looks built in) ?2- There is a plate in the back that you can adjust and that I can push back and forth, what is this for and do I need it for wood burning, it takes up a lot of room in the fire box.Okay I have one more question, does anyone know where I can get a free manual for this stove?Thanks, it's getting chilly in the mountains of VA

I'm looking to do the same as you. I see a grate at the bottom that looks built in. I took the plate out that for it does take up too much room. This appears to be the hopper plate that is adjust for coal burning. I notice on the parts store online there is a fire fence for burning wood I believe

I have a copy of the manual I downloaded on-line however it doesn't mention anything about wood. I can email you copy of the pdf manual if you'd like - can't seem to find where I got it on-line. saw_it@ymail.com