Monday, December 28, 2009

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009Azienda Agricola FataloneFatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005 Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.2 stars

Vini CoppiCoppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.1 star

Cantine LanzollaCantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.1 star

Cantine di Scj'oScj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.1 star

Cantine del ColleCantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani RaffaeleGiuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.2 stars

Azienda Agricola CannitoCannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.1 star

Azienda Agricola PlantamuraPlantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.1 star

Cantine GuttaroloGuttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.86-8**

PietraventosaPietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

PolvaneraPolvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.2 stars

ChiaromonteChiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.1 star

Friday, December 11, 2009

Brunello di Montalcino has a certain mystique to it, and I was therefore quite flattered when Carlo Macchi called to ask if I wanted to come to a Brunello vertical he was organizing. Especially because Carlo was selecting the wines; and was going a ways back: The first wine was a 1982, and therefore predated much of the “innovation” that has swept though Montalcino and the rest of Italy since then. And what do I mean by “innovation?”

First of all, the use of barriques, the small (225 liter) French oak barrels that have a tremendous impact upon the wine they contain – in 1982 most everyone was still using botti, large oak casks that allow microxygenation through the pores in the staves, but have considerably less impact upon the wines. Second, the search for ripeness and concentration, the “gobs of fruit” one finds mentioned in glowing terms in certain publications that had (and have) a tremendous influence on winemakers, many of whom reworked their wines to make them more appealing to said publications.

None of that in 1982, as it was all in the future. Truth be told, there wasn't much of it by the early 1990s either (even in wineries that have changed greatly since then), and with the final wines (we finished with a 1999) Carlo selected producers less subject to the siren's call.

Bottom line, Carlo provided us with a beautiful look at Brunello as it used to be, and it was fascinating to see how the wines had developed. Because they did, very well, displaying a richness and depth that were in some cases simply extraordinary. And that more recent wines by the wineries that have since changed course, becoming softer, smoother and more approachable, simply lack.

The Wines

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 1982Pale brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, alas, though leather and warm acidity do emerge, supported by leafiness. It must have been quite acidic in its youth, because the acidity carries quite well even now. On the palate it's tart, and quite dry, with sour berry fruit supported by clean leathery tannins that flow into a rather tart savory finish. It's like looking across a divide; though the bottle is a little off it does express an otherwordly quality and a generational divide. Interesting, and a window into the past.

Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino 1983Lively almandine with brownish rim and reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with sour berry fruit and a fair amount of acidity supported by clean leathery accents and hints of leaf tobacco. Great depth, and there are also hints of eucalyptus and dried leaves. Quite elegant, and has a lot to say, a wine one can converse with though it does most of the talking. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by slightly bitter tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. Quite impressive,a nd displays a great deal of depth; it also has an otherworldly feel to it, and is one of those wines that will continue to mature indefinitely thanks to the acidity of its backbone. Goes on and on, and though it doesn't present unified front – a fellow taster says scomposto, which means disjointed – it has a great deal to say and is a wine that excites all the senses. Grandioso, and the imperfections make it even more so. With time continues to evolve, and does all sorts of interesting things, in particular intriguing hints of cumin emerge after a while, and it smooths very nicely on the palate. An eternal wine.94

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly mature, with wet leather, underbrush, menthol, which increases with time, savory accents, alcohol, and some sour berry fruit. Quite nice in a powerful, mature key, and it shows considerable polish. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a velvety purr and flow into a clean bright cherry finish. Considerable grace and elegance in a considerably more polished key than the Soldera; a fellow taster says, and he's right, that it's very good but more obvious. And it is; there are fewer secrets to plumb. But very fine; it's like looking at a Caanova statue. Very pleasant on the palate too, and does increase in complexity with time.92-3

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 1986Fairly rich garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with spice and slight greenish accents mingled with leather and bitterness, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Very fine, and there are also some animal notes. On the palate it's full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet savory tannins that have a slightly leathery burr and flow into a clean bright sour finish with considerable underlying bitterness. Great elegance, and it is a wine that matches the Caparzo style, which has been remarkably consistent over the years, and takes many years to come out: The initial post-release impressions are usually not that good, but here we see what it can do given time. In short, Brunello begs patience, and the older styles of this kind even more. True to type, and impressive. It will age indefinitely.93

Talenti Podere Pian di Conte Brunello di Montalcino 1987Paler almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. It looks a little more mature than some of the other wines. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory sea salt and some dried flowers, mingled with leaf tobacco and very slight animal tang. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have pleasant savory accents and a slightly leather tongue-drying finish that will make it very nice with succulent red meats. Elegant, and very pleasant though a touch lower than the others, and this is in part the vintage, which wasn't quite as rich as, say, the 1985.2 stars

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 1988Corked, alas. What manages to escape the corkage suggests that a good bottle would have been very nice, and quite solid.

Casanova di Neri Brunello Riserva 1990Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim, paling to onionskin at the top. The bouquet is intense, with green leather and cut leaf tobacco, which is stronger here than it was in some of the other wines; quite elegant in a mature key, and though it's not as multifaceted as some of the other older wines, there is a monolithic beauty to it. With time leather and leaf tobacco become more intense. Quite harmonious, and one could swish and sniff for a long, long time. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by brisk slightly bitter acidity, and by smooth sweet silky tannins that are a touch dry in the very finish, and flow into a clean rather dry finish with savory accents and some sour berry fruit acidity. It's quite pleasant, and very much approachable, a wine that will work quite well with foods and will make a huge impression if broken out at a festive meal, but I found it a little more direct than I might have wanted – it's statuesque and beautiful, bit lacking in depth, and I attribute this to a relative lack of acidity – there is acidity sufficient to provide direction, but it's not really bright. The Italian word that comes to mind is Mastodontico, which means hulking.88-90

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 1993Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with hints of wood smoke and bitterness supported by leather and some leaf tobacco, also licorice root and with time mentholated and balsamic accents, while leather also increases. On the palate it's full, and bright, with clean sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have some leafy underbrush bitterness and flow into a clean rather bitter sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and I found myself preferring it to the Casanova di Neri 1990 Riserva, because it is brighter and much more nimble on its toes than the Riserva. Both of the Casanova di Neri wines display a degree of savoriness that the Casanova di Neri of today lacks. Much has changed at Casanova di Neri since these wines were made, and I discuss some of the changes in another vertical, here.90-92

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 1996Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, and though others mutter about corks I find more menthol and cold coffee with some rather musty bitter orange peel and balsamic accents, and some savory accents too. On the palate it's fairly rich, though not too full, with sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and graceful in a lesser vintage key; it's not quite as bright as some of the vintages but has a willowy grace to it that is very nice. A beautiful wine, and one that has a great deal to say, for those who want to take the time to listen to it.93

Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino 1997Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; by comparison with many of the other wines the almandine is much younger looking. The bouquet is quite different with respect to the others, with mentholated notes and some spice, mingled with toasted wood and hints of cat pee, which become sweaty with time; a fellow taster talks about the scent of a burnt steak bone atop coals. It engenders considerable discussion. On the palate it's sour, with leathery sour accents and fairly intense minerality supported by bitter fruit bitter tannins that flow into a savory bitter finish. I found it more interesting on the plaate, where there is more to plum and think about than on the nose. The palate is bright, and has a fair amount to say, in a bright key, and is quite approachable; it will work very well with succulent red meats or similar, though I might not want to sip it far from the table.88-90

Tenuta Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry acidity and leathery accents mingled with alcohol and some peppery spice with slight berry fruit acidity as well, and hints of spice. Great depth and considerable harmony too. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity that also has some red currant acidity, and is supported by smooth rather dry tannins that will do a fine job of supporting foods but are a bit too dry to work well sipping. A very fine wine that will drink well with foods, and still needs another few years to come into its own. Intriguing menthol on the nose that emerges with time. I was initially nonplussed by the 1998 vintage, but have begun to reevaluate it The 98s need time, and though not all are great many have improved considerably.90

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a distinct change with respect to the other wines poured, with considerable mentholated spice mingled with berry fruit and cedar. It has a more international feel to it. On the palate it's ample, bright, and young, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very young, in a fairly international key, and is quite approachable; by comparison with some of the others it is much less faceted, and offers much less to think about. But it will drink well with foods, and is a wine I would be happy to serve to friends who are more likely to pour, drink, and enjoy a wine than to spend time thinking about what's in their glass. It's more polished, and more ammiccante – giving a come-hither look -- than some of the others, and a world apart from Case Basse and some of the other older wines. Here we see the arrival of the more international style, and a conscious desire to make wines that are more approachable and easier to drink. And it certainly was more approachable in 2003, upon its release, but is less interesting now, and with time it will separate further from the more traditional, Brunelli.2 stars

Wednesday, December 09, 2009

The first day of our trip to Puglia began with a presentation of wines from Northern Puglia: a few whites, a few rosès, and then a selection of reds, most of which are based on Uva di Troia.

Since Uva di Troia starred, a quick introduction:

Uva di Troia, which is also called Nero di Troia (the terms are used interchangeably, and a fellow taster found a bottle that used both, Uva di Troia on the front label and Nero di Troia on the back label), is grown north of Bari. It's not the easiest grape to work with, according to Rivera's Sebastiano De Corato, who told me, a few years ago, that it was traditionally grown for volume, and therefore farmers preferred clones that produced large compact bunches, with fairly large grapes. Because of this bunch structure, ripening tended to be uneven, and as a result almost every bunch had a few unripe grapes, which contributed harsh unripe tannins. Rivera was propagating Nero di Troia vines (from their vineyards) that produce smaller, looser bunches of grapes that ripen more uniformly, and I am certain others are working along these lines too.

Despite its power and structure, I find Nero di Troia to have remarkably delicate aspects, especially on the nose, which can exhibit enticing floral aromas in addition to delicate prune and plum fruit (we are in Puglia, and the grapes do ripen). The wines can also exhibit cedary notes, and hints of seed spices such as cumin, and while one might be tempted to attribute these characteristics to oak, I think some of the more delicate nuances instead derive from the grapes. Unfortunately, if the wine spends time in wood (especially small wood), these characteristics are quickly masked, and then one notes cedar, oak, and oak tannins that Nero di Troia really doesn't need.

Nero di Troia is quite capable of standing on its own two feet without the aid of crutches, and I found myself best liking its younger expressions, those fermented in steel, aged briefly in steel (or cement), and then bottled. Barrique-aged Nero di Troia looses these delicate facets and is therefore much more anonymous, and -- to be frank -- mostly indifferent to humdrum.

Bottom line: Nero di Troia can be beautiful when it's young and fresh, and in years in which there is more acidity would also expect these young fresh wines to age nicely, because they certainly have the necessary backbone. But I don't think it needs much help in the cellars: Perhaps a brief spell in large oaken casks, but not small oak barrels. They strip it of everything.

And now the wines, in the order tasted:

Tenuta Fujanera Falanghina Puglia IGT 2008Bright rather lively gold. The bouquet is fresh, young, and rather floral, with ripe fairly sweet melon as well and some acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite mineral, with bitter minerality and some citric acidity that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish.1 star

Valle Dell'Elce Dauina IGT Bianco Puglia 2008 This is Greco and Bombino Bianco; it's brassy gold with brassy reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, and smoky, with considerable gunflint and some underlying metallic acidity - there is some oxidation here, and a fellow taster finds quince jam as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with lively mineral acidity that becomes steadily more savory as it fades. It's interesting but has peaked, I think.1 star

Botromagno Poggio al Bosco Gravina DOC 2008Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant greenish herbal notes, hints of sage and some honeydew melon and hints of elicriso (the herb). It has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively savory minerality and warm citric acidity as well, with some greenish artichoke petal tannins as well that flow into a warm dry savory finish; it's quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or white meats, including creamy dishes.2 stars

Alberto Longo Donnadele Negroamaro Puglia Rosato IGT 2008 Pale salmon pink, with brilliant salmon reflections. It looks scarico, which means unloaded, and brings to mind more a Bardolino Chiaretto than a southern wine. The bouquet is quite fresh, with mineral acidity and some red berry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry currant acidity that flow into a clean bright red currant finish. Quite pleasant, and very fresh especially considering that it's already a year old; it will age nicely for another year and be nice with picnic foods, fish, and vegetable based pasta dishes or soups.2 stars

Tarantini Petrigama Rosato Castel del Monte DOC 2008This is from Bombino Nero grapes, which are only used to make roses; it's a very pretty lively pink with brilliant highlights and pale white rim. The bouquet is a bit off, with berry fruit mingled with fresh yogurt - the aroma that emerges from the yogurt machine when you remove the cover - and this is likely something related to the yeasts. On the palate it's more interesting, with fairly rich, soft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with hints of lactic acid - the nose emerging again. It's better on the palate, but a bit lax, and I'll be curious to taste the next vintage.1 star

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel del Monte DOC 2008Lively pink with brilliant pink reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and pleasant spicy herbal accents. Nice, in a welcoming key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some sweet tannins, and moderate acidity that's not quite as bright as it might have been; and flows into a clean berry fruit finish with some hints of plum. It's pleasant, and very approachable, but slightly lacking in acidity, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. But it will drink well with foods. Just that it's a tad direct.2 stars

Rasciatano Vigne di Rascialone Rosè IGT Puglia 2008 Salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is powerful and pungent, with leafy underbrush and savory accents, also bitterness. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that has a slight milky feel to it, and slight tannins.1 star

Colle Petrito Ferula Rosato Castel Del Monte DOC 2008Lively rosy pink with brilliant reflections and white rim, The bouquet is fairly intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with chemical accents and some spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. Up front, and not as fresh as it was a few months ago, alas. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate acidity supporting rather nondescript fruit. It has held up fairly well, but at this point needs the new vintage to step in for it.1 star

Colle Petrito Iaccio della Portata Nero di Troia Puglia IGT 2008Deep cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with warmth and underbrush mingled with some berry fruit and slight balsamic notes; swishing also brings up some herbal accents and a slight sweetness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cedar-laced bitter minerality and dry cedary tannins (from grape) that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Not much richness of fruit; the wine revolves more around minerality and bitterness, and some iodine also emerges in the finish.1 star

Donna Cecilia Vino Rosso IGT Daulina 2008Lively pinkish ruby with dark reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and plum cherry fruit supported by some residual sugars that confer jaminess, and by spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a rather opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean dry tannic finish with berry fruit overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews.2 stars

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2007Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with iodine and underbrush mingled with berry fruit, some spice, and delicate floral overtones. Nice depth, and graceful. On the palate it's full, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and nicely displays the potential of Nero di Troia done in steel: Interesting fruit, interesting floral accents, nice tannins, and nothing to get in the way or mask it. It will drink very well with roasts or stews, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly. One of the finest Nero di Troia wines presented, and the floral accents on the nose, which are delicate enough that oak would mask them, make it even more interesting.90

Tenuta Fujanera Arrocco Nero di Troia 2008Cherry ruby with pink cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with sugary plum fruit supported by jam; it gives an impression of considerable ripeness, and there are also some greenish vegetal notes that are well integrated. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with plum fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary accents to them, not much in the way of acidity, and some jammy accents. Very fruit forward and soft; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter wines it won't work for you.1 star

Tarantini Petrigama Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2008Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with candied fruit mingled with acidity and spice, with hints of medicine cabinet as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather thin, with moderate nondescript fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a rather quick finish. I found it to be rather dilute.1 star

Antica Enotria Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some sour berry fruit and smoke, and greenish accents as well, and fair acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and sfot, with bitter berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a cedar-laced finish. It's a bit disjointed, and I found myself wanting more.1 star

Santa Lucia Vigna del Melograno Uva di Troia Castel del Monte Rosso 2007Impenetrable pyrope ruby with purple reflections and deep ruby rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is enticing, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity; it's welcoming in a decidedly opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar overlay, and by acidity that provides direction, flowing into a fairly dry savory finish with leafy underbrush tannins that have savory accents as well. It will work well with food and is pleasant in a fruit driven key, while the tannins will help it to accompany succulent meats or roasts. Versatile, and enjoyable.2 stars

Cantina La Marchesa Il Nerone della Marchesa Vino Rosso IGT Daunia This is named after La Marchesa's grandfather, who was nicknamed Il Nerone. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight vegetal accents. Quite pleasant to sniff, in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's a little thinner than one might have expected on the palate, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.2 stars

Vigne di Rascitano Rasciatano Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some lactic acid mingled with some berry fruit and some wood smoke as well. Not exciting, and tired. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate fruit and a fair amount of wood that leads into a decidedly savory finish.1 star

Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and spice mingled with some brisk acidity and some balsamic notes with underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and tannins that have some cedary accents, and flow into a clean rather savory finish. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose, which is in an interrogatory phase. It needs time, a year or two.

Torrevento Matervitae Aglianico Puglia IGT Rosso 2007Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and greenish grilled pepper, with a fair amount of spice and some cedar as well. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's rich and languid, with chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and is also a very distinct change of pace with respect to the other wines poured at the tasting.2 stars

Botromagno Pier Delle Vigne Murgia Rosso IGT 2003This is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with green leather, minerality, and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Nice balance in a distinctly more mature key, but then again it is a 2003. And it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warm sour cherry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with lasting acidity. Very fresh for a 2003, especially considering how hot it was, and a pleasant wine that will work very well with succulent roasts or stews. It wasn't a revelation, because I have tasted Botromagno's wines before, but is very nice, with considerable depth and elegance.88-90

Rivera Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Castel del Monte 2008Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by some iodine and slight lactic acid. Non-descript. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by terrific cedar that flows into a tart cedar laced finish. Oak in a glass, and it completely overpowers the fruit. A pity, because Nero di Troia can do much more.1 star

Valle dell'Elce Rosso Essenziale IGT Daunia Rosso 2008Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet opulent, with jammy red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some spice. It comes across as fairly sweet. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate berry fruit acidity; it gives an impression of trying very hard, but (for me) it comes up a bit short.1 star

Torrevento Vigna Quarrate Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005Black cherry ruby with jammy berry fruit supported by spice; nice depth and elegance. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. On the palate it has a slightly dilute feel; the tannins step in and are a touch drier than one might have expected, bit the wine will work quite well with foods.2 stars

Finally, two Nero Di Troia wines tasted the night before the general tasting:

Cefalicchio Rosato Ponte della Lama Puglia IGT 2008This is 100% Nero di Troia; it's a brilliant pomegranate red that's quite pretty. The bouquet is clean, with floral-herbal accents and some red berry fruit mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of savory acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively minerality and bright tannins with a burr that leads into a clean bitter finish. It's more the little brother of a red than a classic rosè, and one can taste the limestone the vines draw their life from. Quite pleasant and will work very well with a wide variety of foods, ranging from cold cuts and fairly fresh cheeses though pasta and soups, and also with simple meats. In a word, versatile, and though many 2008 rosès are by now beginning to tire this one hasn't at all, and was still bright after an hour in the glass. Impressive.90

Cefalicchio Romanico Nero di Troia Rosso di Canossa Riserva DOC 2005Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and violet rim. Tremendous color. The bouquet is powerful, with musty underbrush and savory spice mingled with wet leaves, minerality, and some gunflint. Considerable depth, and has a lot to say; as it opens it reveals all sorts of facets, in particular intriguing hints of crushed almonds. On the palate it's ample and rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quick to write but pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, especially more succulent meats as the tannins do a fine job of clearing the palate. It's fruit rich but not a fruit bomb, and is a fine food wine that will also age nicely for at least 5 years.90

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Carmignano is one of the smallest Italian appellations. It is also one of the oldest: Cosimo III De'Medici recognized it in the edict with which he set the boundaries of the four best winemaking areas of Tuscany, in 1716. In terms of composition, Carmignano is, like most other Tuscan reds, based on Sangiovese. Specifically:

The Cabernet merits a brief aside: It has long been grown in the area, and indeed Cosimo III, who called it Uva Francesca, planted some in his vineyards.

The vineyards are located in the Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, on hillsides whose elevations range between 50 and 200 meters above sea level; this is lower than Chianti Classico, where the elevations range from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, and as a result daytime temperatures are warmer during the summer months. This hastens the ripening and therefore the harvest, which is usually a couple of weeks ahead of Chianti Classico's.

Carmignano is also just a few miles from the higher peaks of the Apennines, and because of this proximity it gets the night breezes, which bring temperatures down sharply, thus guaranteeing good temperature excursions that help the bouquet to develop. These mountains also bring the occasional summer thunderstorm, the rainfall from which, according to Capezzana's Count Ugo Contini Bonaccossi, helps maintain balance in the vineyards and further promotes ripening.

The maximum allowable yield for Carmignano DOCG is 8 metric tons per hectare, with a yield into wine of 70%. The basic Carmignano wine ages for 2 years, one of which in wood, prior to release, whereas Carmignano Riserva ages for 3 years, two of which in wood. The choice of wood type -- barrique, tonneau, or botte grande -- is up to the winemaker. The aging potential of Carmignano is similar to that of Chianti Classico: The basic wines are usually best when drunk 3-5 years after the harvest, though they can age much longer in exceptional vintages, while the Riserva generally ages well, for up to 15 years.

In addition to Carmignano DOCG, the region's producers also make several DOC wines. The most intriguing, from a historical standpoint, is Vin Ruspo (literally, stolen wine), a wine patterned after the wine the share-croppers used to make on the sly, by taking the last load of grapes home each day of the harvest, and keeping the juices that ran from the baskets during the night. It's a dry, fruity rosé. There is also Barco Reale, a lighter red named after a walled Medici Family hunting preserve located in Carmignano; it's designed to be drunk sooner than Carmignano, and is similar to Rosso di Montalcino in this respect. And finally, there is Vinsanto, the traditional Tuscan dessert wine made from white grapes allowed to dry on straw mats until mid-winter before they're pressed.

Before we get to the wines, a couple of words on the vintages:

Some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo are from the 2008 vintage, which was a bit weaker than the 2007 or the 2006. Pleasant, but with less depth and richness to them. The remaining whites, Vin Ruspo, Barco Reale, and some of the Carmignano are from the 2007 vintage, which is a bit more high strung than the 2006 was -- nice fruit, but also lively rather aggressive tannins, which make for brasher wines. They do drink quite well with foods, and the Carmignano also has nice aging potential. There is also 2006 Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva; 2006 was a good vintage, and the wines display lively fruit coupled with nice tannic structure and nimble acidity. They also have the potential to age nicely for a number of years, especially the Riserva wines.

The Wines, Tasted Blind on June 1 2009

Podere il SassoloVia di Citerna 5Carmignano (PO)055 870 5983

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Dusky ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, and vinous, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents mingled with some savory accents. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some underlying greenish bitterness, and by mineral acidity that flows into a clean vegetal finish with underlying minerality. Simple, direct, and pleasant; it will drink well with grilled meats, light stews, and also with hearty meat or red sauced pasta dishes.1 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2006Deft almandine with almandine in the rim too. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with warm tart berry fruit acidity and some spice; there's also brambly underpinning, and it's fairly aggressive. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a medium bodied scrappy key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, light stews and such; it also has the acidity necessary for fried foods. A fine food wine that will go quickly.2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008Pale salmon pink with bright pink reflections and rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut flowers and some greenish accents mingled with spice and mentholated notes. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality more than fruit, supported by spice and clean fresh tannins that flow into a slightly greenish finish.1 star

Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with dusky black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and graphite shaving bitterness mingled with vegetal accents and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample rather lax forest berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and moderately intense rather green tannins that flow into a long greenish finish. It is, as I said, lax; I'd have liked more tightness and definition to the acidity and the tannic structure, which accompany the fruit but don't seem to have a firm grip on where they're going.1 star

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina In Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet accents and some purple in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and some bitter pencil shavings mingled with some slight vegetal accents and forest berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich plum cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean sweet tannins that have a slightly bitter cedar laced underpinning, and flow into a fairly bitter finish. More international in style, and needs a year to settle and absorb the wood; it is more soft in style and will work well with drier meats or could be sipped by the glass. If you like the style you will enjoy it, if you're more aggressive in your tastes it will work less well for you.2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Eliziana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly light, and dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary underpinning with lasting bitterness that carries into the finish. I found it to be lacking in fruit.1 star

Fattoria Ambra Vigne Alte Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and young, with red berry fruit supported by spice and cedar with some savory greenish accents; it gives an impression of being in the process of coming together. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has fairly strong vegetal overtones, and by smooth dusky cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean sour finish. It's young and needs time, a year at least, to get its bearings and figure out what it wants to do with itself. If it comes together well, it will age nicely for a decade or more, in a lacy key.2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2002Tawny amber tending towards Moroccan leather; it's the darkest and brownest of the vinsanti poured. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and warmth mingled with green walnut skins and some aldehydes, also greenish notes and shellac, while there is underlying dried fruit, in particular dates. On the palate it's ample, with rich brown sugar sweetness supported by deft dried apricot acidity that flows into a long clean walnut skin laced finish with lasting warmth and brown sugar sweetness underpinning. Pleasant, and will be nice with friends far from the table, or with a book by the fire. It has a lot to say.2 stars

Fattoria di Bacchereto Fattoria di Bacchereto Terre a Mano Carmignano DOCG 2007Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and some cedar, with underlying peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice in a rather scrappy key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smoother than I expected, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats, light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Versatile, and will go quickly; Worth seeking out if you like the style.2 stars

Podere AlloccoPodere Allocco Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is Fairly rich, with greenish accents and vegetal notes, mingled with spice, some mentholated balsam, and warmth; with more swishing some berry fruit also emerges, but the basic balsamic warm vegetal cast continues. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich slightly greenish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a smooth slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Direct, and a touch duskier than I would have liked, though it will drink well with drier meats and similar; I'd also be tempted to serve it with meatballs or an Italian meatloaf.1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum-laced red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of bitterness; with swishing the petroleum resolves into more balsamic notes, and there's a brooding quality to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity, and by tannins that are a little thinner than I might have expected, and flow into a fresh bitter berry fruit finish. It will drink well with foods, and is pleasant in a direct, upfront sort of way. I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.1 star

Fattoria di ArtiminoFattoria Artimino Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some underbrush; there's less fruit than in some of the others. On the palate it's bright, with tart acidity and moderate berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and spice, flows into clean bright berry fruit finish.1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up savory accents and some underbrush mingled with minerality and vegetal notes; not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with light rather tart berry fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and tannins that are light and glancing, and flow into a clean fairly dry bitter finish. It's not as fruit driven as some -- less concentration, less richness -- but because of its acidity will work well with succulent grilled meats along the lines of ribs, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.1 star

Fattoria Artimino Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Lively ruby with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by clean greenish accents andspice; there's a cheeky welcoming quality to it, and it is pleasant to sniff, in a lively zesty key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright cherry red currant finish with vegetal underpinning and some tannic accents. A lark of a wine, which will be quite nice with simple first course dishes, and also work well as an aperitif with meat based antipasti, or at a cookout Expect it overtones go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.2 stars

Fattoria Artimino Vigna Grumarello Carmignano DOCG 2005Deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky cedar and some blackish accents, supported by savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with ample rather generic berry fruit supported by some greenish brambly acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly soft bitter finish with brambly underpinning. It's a bit settled, and the structure is carrying things more than the fruit.1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and extremely vegetal, with a mixture of artichoke and asparagus greenness -- beyond bell pepper -- underlain by mineral graphite bitterness. Eye opening. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense vegetal laced berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity -- enough to provide direction -- and by smooth sweet tannins that fade more than flow into the finish, which declines, with vegetal accents. It seems to be from a cooler vintage, and one has the impression that the grapes didn't ripen as well as they might have. This said, if you like this sort of intensely vegetal wine, it does display a certain grace.2 stars

Fattoriadi Artimino Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005Pale tawny amber with apricot reflections and rim with some hints of gold. The bouquet is intense, with oatmeal and brown sugar mingled with dates and some dried figs, also walnut skins and some spice supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some dried fruit, in particular apricots, and saddle leather. Considerable concentration and quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I might have expected from the some, with fairly rich brown sugar and oatmeal supported by walnut skin bitterness that advances deliberately; it brings to mind a whale flowing below the surface, and flows into a fairly long, warm, but not really acidic finish with brown sugar and date sweetness laced with some walnut skin savory bitterness. It's laxer than some Vinsanti, and also more brooding, but does have a story to tell, and if you like vinsanto you'll find it interesting.2 stars

Tenuta La BorrianaTenuta La Borriana Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some pungent cut flowers and moderate mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample, with sour berry fruit supported by vegetal minerality and spice, and by dusky tannins that flow into a warm dusky finish with some greenish accents. It's a bit more aggressive than some of the rosati, and if you like the style it will work well wit cold cuts, or as an aperitif, or with white meats.1 star

Tenuta La Borriana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter berry fruit supported by greenish accents and graphite shavings, and also some bitter spice that has spice overripe accents. On the palate it's bright, with tarter, more sour than expected cherry fruit supported by vegetal bitterness and some peppery spice, also some cedar, which flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Nose and palate are going in slightly different directions, though the overall impression is successful; it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables; it's a wine that won't work as well if you like smooth well polished wines, but will go nicely with foods.2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by some cedar and also lacquer; the other things are more evident than the fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderate sour berry fruit --cherry and some black currant -- supported by some berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky graphite burr, and flow into a bitter finish. It's quite young, and needs another year for the tannins to finish folding in; this said, I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit, because the bitterness of the tannins overshadows things. It will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and is fairly up front.1 star

Podere PiaggiaVia Cegoli 4759016 Poggio a CaianoTel 055/8705363

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some spice with hints of dried mushrooms as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright, ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity laced with bitterness and underbrush, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish that's also long. Nice, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews now, while also having the legs to age well for 6-10 years. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and fairly intense berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar. It's quite young, and needs another year. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean dusky berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that gain definition from dusky graphite bitterness, and flow into a clean fresh cherry fruit finish with underlying tannic bitterness. It's quite young, a child in the woods, and needs another couple of years for things to come together, at which point it will be graceful in a rich international key, and also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you're more traditionally minded you'll find things to think about.2 stars

Piaggia Poggio de'Colli IGT Toscana 2007This is a Cabernet FrancDeep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and underbrush, with underlying graphite shavings. Nice balance and rich, in a youthful key; it's clearly still coming together and developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich smooth berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish; it's not quite a starlet in a glass but definitely more voluptuous in style than most of the wines from this area, and if you like this rich fruit driven style you will enjoy it. Considerably, and it will age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Tenuta le FarneteTenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy graphite laced berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and a certain coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. Fairly direct, too. On the palate it's ample, with soft ripe cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderately intense vegetal acidity that flow into a tart to sour finish. It's direct, and an easy to drink simple wine that will work well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews; this said, a little more tightness to the acidity would have been nice.1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with petroleum at first swish, which opens into vegetal-balsamic accents, with underlying acidity and some pencil shavings as well, also rubber. Quite young, but interesting. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by citric laced berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a good food wine that will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats, including chicken with the skin, and also with light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit with slight vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly languid, with cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and currant acidity that flows into a clean tart finish with up bitterness; the tannins are fairly smooth, though there is a slight cedar overlay to them. It's ample, in a fairly direct key, and though I generally prefer wines that are tighter and more closely defined, it will drink well with succulent grilled meats. Because of its relative softness I'm not sure how long it will age for.1 star

PratesiPratesi Locorosso Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky bitterness and vegetal accents mingled with graphite shavings and ripe bitterness, also plum cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Pleasant, in a direct key, and will work quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews. What you see is what you get, and it will go quickly with foods.2 stars

Pratesi Vigna di Carmio Carmignano DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with violet reflections and purple cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and berry fruit; the interaction brings the glue I used to use to assemble models to mind, and there is also some peppery underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderate dusky berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a dusky cedary bitterness to them, and by slight acidity that flows into a bitter finish. I'd have liked greater concentration of fruit.1 star

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006A Bordeaux blend, 50 Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 Cabernet Franc and 40 MerlotImpenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up some pencil shavings and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness and some sour accents, but, again, less fruit than I would have liked. Oak carries it.1 star

Fattoria Le GinestreFattoria Le Ginestre Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008 Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is distinctly green, with vegetal accents and some spice supported by berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. More charged and much more vegetal than some. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively tart red currant fruit supported by brisk acidity and light tannins that flow into a tart finish. Pleasing in a cheeky sort of way, and will be quite nicely with meat based risotti, cold cuts, and similar, will also be a good cookout wine.2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with vegetal accents and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight splintery greenish burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly aggressive key, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats, e.g. spare ribs or chicken with the skin, or lamb chops, and will also work nicely with fried meats and vegetables. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it has quite a bit to say.2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Carmignano DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and bitter, with leathery accents and spice mingled with greenish notes and charcoal; there's also a degree of artichoke vegetal accents in the bitterness. Not much fruit however. On the palate it's ample, with richer than expected rather lithe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by languid black currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. The nose is behind the palate, which is pleasant in a scrappy key but a little lighter than I might have hoped for. I would give the nose a year to catch up, and drink it with meat based pasta dishes, lesser grilled meats, or perhaps rich legume based dishes along the lines of fagioli all'uccelletoo, tomatoey beans with sausages.1 star

Fattoria Le Ginestre Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2003Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and leathery slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is intense, with dried walnut -- the wood more than the nut -- supported by spice and graphite shavings, hints of eraser, and also a fair amount of alcohol. Unusual, but one of Vinasnto's hallmarks is its variability. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich brown sugar sweetness laced with walnut skin bitterness that has some dried leather accents, and is supported by moderate acidity that flows into a warm sweet brown sugar finish with tart, almost smoky overtones. It's pleasant, though a vinsanto more for lovers of vinsanto than those who have little experience with the genre; if you are willing to listen it does have a tale to tell, but you have to be willing to sit and give it time.2 stars

CastelvecchioCastelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour red currant fruit supported by some greenish accents and mentholated spice. Pleasant and lively. On the palate it's rich, with deft cherry red currant fruit supported by lively lemony currant acidity, and by slight, smooth, sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. Graceful, and will work well as an aperitif or with cold cuts, and also with hearty meat based risotti, white meats, and similar. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with greenish accents and cut hay mingled with some brambly notes and slight cedar, also savory accents and bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with bright slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk slightly vegetal acidity that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a bright fruit driven key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats -- it will be nice at a cookout --or light stews, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly if you like the style, and you may want a second bottle.2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and hardwood ash. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by bright berry fruit acidity, which leads into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats.2 stars

Castelvecchio Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable alcohol and bitter green walnut skin, what's called mallo di noce in Italian, laced with alcohol and some greenish accents, and underlying aldehydes and hints of green watermelon rind. Quite a bit going on in a more youthful key that brings tightly drawn muscles to mind. On the palate it's full, with rich languid bitter walnut fruit supported by some sweetness, and by bright walnut acidity that flows into a long bitter walnut finish with considerable warmth. A more bitter rendition of vinsanto, and though it is sweet, the bitterness does remain, with warmth, and carries at length. It's more particular and more demanding, a style that requires the attention of the drinker, and is therefore more aimed at the vinsanto fan than some others.2 stars

Tenuta CapezzanaTenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2006Brassy yellow with lemon peel reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with acidity and butterscotch mingled with spice and some greenish accents; it's quite charged, and if you like the style, which is rather extreme, it is pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with rich minerality laced with greenish accents and some tart lemony fruit that flows into a clean fairly rich greenish finish; the palate reflects the nose and there is a degree of languidity to it; it's an extreme wine, with quite a bit of oak and much concentration, and you have to like the style to enjoy it. If you don't it won't work as well for you. Takes no quarter.2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively dusky raspberry fruit supported by greenish accents and some brambly acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's light, with fairly lively cherry and raspberry fruit supported by clean bright raspberry acidity, and flows into a clean bright tart sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a light zesty key and will be quite nice either as an aperitif with cheese or egg based antipasti, or as a cookout wine; will also work well with flavorful fish or white meats.2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008 Deep pyrope with black reflections and ruby rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with vegetal accents mingling with violets and dusky spice; it's voluptuous and quite fresh. On the palate it's ample, with rich vegetal laced berry fruit that has some yellow peach accents -- something that can happen in a red -- supported by fairly bright greenish berry fruit acidity, bramble, and smooth sweet tannins that have leafy undertones, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a very young key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will work well as a cookout wine, though there's a bit too much going on for it to work with a picnic. If you like this rather voluptuous fruit-and-floral style you will enjoy it, and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bitter cedar laced berry fruit supported by some graceful spice and vegetal underpinning, also some sea salt and savory accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and bitter tannins that have a graphite shaving underpinning supported by alcohol as well, and it flows into a clean fairly long sour berry fruit finish with alcoholic warmth and bitterness. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or stews, also with game. Direct, unassuming, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Treffiano Carmignano DOCG 2005 Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit rustic, with barnyard tang amingled with sour brambly acidity and savory notes. Nice balance, but you have to like the style. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have some cedar accents, a feature of youth -- they're not polished -- and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful in a frankly traditional old style key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, much even, because it will drink well now with succulent red meats, be they stewed, from the grill, or out of the oven, and it also promises to be long lived. If you like the style, it's worth seeking out. If you like smoother softer fruitier (on the nose) wines it won't work as well for you.2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2004 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% SyrahDeep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim; almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and underbrush mingled with plum cherry fruit and dusky bitterness, not quite graphite, but more wet chestnut leaves. Brooding. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Graceful, in a rather scrappy aggressive key, and if you like the style, with its tart fruit, bright acidity, and slightly greenish tannins, it will drink very well with grilled meats or hearty stews or roasts in the short term, and will also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style.2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2003 Tawny amber with bright apricot reflections and some amber in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable walnut rind and some aldehydes mingled with sweetness and greenish accents that confer a haunting feel to the wine. Quite young too, and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fig and date fruit supported by considerable brown sugar sweetness that gains direction from dried apricot acidity, and flows into a long brown sugar and date sweetness finish with definition from deft, lacy spice, and some walnut skins with hints of nut crunch. Quite pleasant, and eminently approachable; if you are new to vinsanto it's an excellent introduction to the genre, and offers all sorts of things to think about.88-90

Colline San BiagioColline San Biagio Sancti Blasii Carmignano DOCG 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with graphite shavings and hints of balsam; there's also some leathery cedar. On the palate it's ample, and more sour than I had expected, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour greenish red currant acidity, and by bitter vegetal tannins that flow into a clean greenish finish with tannic underpinning. It's aggressive, and tart; if you like the style, it will work quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, fried meats even, but you do have to like the style. If you're partial to smoother wines it won't work for you.2 stars

Tenuta di Bagnolo Marchesi Pancrazi Pinot Nero Villa di Bagnolo IGT Toscana 2007Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with savory accents and some tart, brambly berry fruit supported by almost reedy acidity and some minerality as well. It's a distinct break with the other wines, but not unpleasant, and I find myself wondering if it's Pancrazi's Pinot Nero. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with lesser grilled meats, or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to age well for a number of years, becoming lacy with time. Quite enjoyable, and worth seeking out if you like this rather graceful, delicate style.2 stars

Marchese Pancrazi Pinot Nero Vigna Baragazza IGT Toscana 2007Deep almandine with blackish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish underpinning. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright slightly bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and lively sour cherry acidity that flows into a bitter acidic finish. Doesn't feel like Sangiovese; but is graceful in a scrappy key; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews and also has the wherewithal to work with fried foods.2 stars

Monday, November 09, 2009

I much enjoyed the 2006 Barbaresco that was presented this year at Alba Wines. 2006 was a fine vintage, and though the wines are still very young they display a suppleness and power that I found quite invigorating, coupled with fairly rich, fairly tart (in many cases) fruit, and brisk acidities. In short, I think that the 2006 Barbaresco displays considerable aging potential, and while you will have to select a winemaker whose tastes match yours, you will find many fine wines to choose from.

We also tasted a few 2003 Barbaresco Riserva wines, which were a mixed lot. Some displayed the ravages brought by the heat of the summer, but a couple pleasantly surprised me, showing more fruit and depth than I expected to find.

And finally, during the afternoon session producers poured their 1999 vintages for us. As was the case with the 1999 Barolo that was also poured in the afternoon sessions, I was quite favorably impressed by the wines, and though the sampling wasn't thorough -- given time constraints I had to pick and choose -- the quality was uniformly high, including wines that don't show particularly well fresh from release. In other words, Many Barbareschi, especially those in the more traditional style, need time to grow.

With respect to the 1999 Baroli, I found most (but not all) of the 1999 Barbareschi to be slightly more mature, and attribute this to differences in terroir. Mature, in this case, is a relative term. None were what one might call old.

The wineries are listed in the order they were poured in.

Barbaresco DOCG 2006

Albino RoccaAlbino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by jammy accents and underlying sweetness. Nice balance in a youthful ripe key. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct with clean berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins. Though it will drink well with foods, it's not quite as complex as I might have hoped. In other words, it needs time.1 star

Albino Rocca Vigneto Brich Rocchi Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by spice and cedar. Young in an international key. On the palate it's bright and rich, with clean saucy raspberry cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean fresh fairly tannic finish with vegetal accents. Pleasant in a rather zesty key and very young; it needs another year or two to get its bearings and come together, and will age nicely for a decade or more.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Albino Rocca Vigneto Bric Ronchi Barbaresco 1999Deft almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is quite elegant, opening to reveal savory balsamic notes and spice mingled with sea salt and some leaf tobacco. A wine one can sniff, and sniff again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful savory berry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant; because of the aggressiveness of the tannins I wouldn't choose it to meditate with, but it will work magic when combined with a juicy slice of rare roast beef.88-90

Cascina BruciataCascina Bruciata Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and petroleum laced, with greenish spice and little fruit; I think this is a manifestation of oak but I'm not sure. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly soft plum fruit supported by moderate salty acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, flowing into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's overly polished for my tastes, and though some fruit may emerge with time, it will always be polished.1 star

Cascina delle RoseCascina delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and greenish accents, but not much fruit in the way of fruit; there's much oak here. On the palate it's moderately intense; there's not much in the way of fruit, though there is a leathery minerality supported by warmth and cedar-laced tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It was fed a lot of oak and is still trying to digest it. Whether it will or not is anyone's guess; I would in any case give it 3-5 years to get its bearings before opening it. It may do interesting things with time, but the future will tell.1 star

Cascina Delle Rose Tre Stelle Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with alcohol and warmth mingled with some leather and hints of lathered horse; there's also rosa canina, nutmeg, and hints of dried flowers. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart berry fruit supported by ample tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a clean long finish. It's a bit awkward, and more spread out than I might have liked -- not deft and well defined.1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:Cascina Delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco 1999Brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leaf tobacco and spice mingled with hints of menthol and alcohol, and underlying leathery balsamic notes. Considerable depth. On the palate it's ample, with rich clean warm berry fruit supported by savory spice that flows into a bright fairly savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with hearty meat dishes, from succulent roasts through stews.2 stars

Cascina LuisinCascina Luisin Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean fresh vegetal acidity and deft green leather , as well as rosa canina and savory notes, with slight underlying cedar. Quite elegant, with considerable depth, and very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic berry fruit finish. Great depth and elegance and very young; it is drinkable now but will age beautifully for 10-15 years: we're at the start of a long journey.92

Cascina Luisin Sorì Paolin Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Almandine with black reflections and leathery almandine in the rim. The bouquet is frankly traditional, with rosa canina mingled with clean berry fruit supported by greenish accents and warm spice. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff, though very young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet slightly leathery tannins that flow into a long, long warm fruit laced finish with leathery underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and approachable (barely) now; one would be better off to give it a couple of years, and it will age quite well for a decade or more. Worth waiting for. At least I think so.90

Produttori del BarbarescoProduttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with animal tang mingled with balsam and stable straw, and some tart acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, though I would be tempted to give it a few more years. Worth seeking out if you're of traditional tastes.88-90

Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and hints of rosa canina with a fair amount of spice as well. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet rather savory tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart finish. Quite pleasant, and very young; it will drink now with roasts or stews, though there is also enough acidity for it to work well with (very elegant) fried meats, and will also age nicely for 10-15 years. Quite nice, in a bright rather aggressive traditional key.88-90

Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice, mingled with rosa canina. Very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though not yet velvety, and they do display an underpinning of steel. Quite pleasant, though it will reward those who will give it time. Traditional too; not a smoother softer fruit driven wine, but rather one with bracing acidity that will age quite well.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Produttori del Barbaresco Vigneto Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva 1999Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with leaf tobacco and leather mingled with wet horse, spice, and some metallic notes. Quite elegant. On the palate it's full and rich with elegant brandied cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some leafy bitter undertones and flow into a long bitter tannic finish. Very pleasant in a rather austere key, and has quite a bit to say; one could drink and enjoy it now, or age it for many more years. Beautiful wine.92

CasettaCasetta Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and bright acidity mingled with some berry fruit, though what really emerges is the vegetal nature Nebbiolo can display. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft acidity that provides direction, flowing into a clean slightly greenish tart finish. It's quite young, and will age quite well; I'd be tempted to set it aside for 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for 10-152 stars

MontaribaldiMontaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with wet horse mingled with wet stable straw and some balsam. On the palate it's fairly bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly leathery berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly tart finish. It's not a wine for lovers of studied smoothness, but if you like this somewhat more rustic style, it will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. In short, if you like the style it's worth seeking out.2 stars

Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with a fair amount of alcohol and considerable greenish spice, and hints of white glue, but not much in the way of fruit; it brings to mind a hulking person standing in a corner. On the palate it's full, with rather generic red berry fruit supported by bitterness and savory accents, and by tannins that are fairly rich and spicy, and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. There's something about it that I found bothersome, and if I had a bottle I would be tempted to give it a few years, because it's not happy now.

Castello di VerdunoCastello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2006Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with acidity and some cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter cedar laced fruit supported by savory accent and some minerality. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which will likely never really match the wood.1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:Castello di Verduno Rabajà Barbaresco Riserva 1999Brownish almandine with black-brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic and dusky, with warm balsamic acidity mingled with spice and some saddle leather. Quite tertiary, but pleasant if you like this rather pungent traditional style. On the palate it's ample, with warmth and leathery tannic notes supported by balsam and minerality that flow into a long warm finish. Very old school, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style; if you're more towards the international side of the spectrum it won't work well for you.2 stars

Cascina MorassinoCascina Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with cedar and spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable mineral laced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which comes across as dried out by the wood.1 star

Cascina Morassino Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and spice, nutmeg and some cinnamon, and also hints of cedar. Nice balance in a youthful keuy. On the palate it's bright and full, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and some underlying bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and war,m, with slught cedar underpinning. Quite pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will dirnk well with foods now, though I would be tempted to set a bottle aside for 3-5 years, and expect it to do interesting things over the next 15 years.2 stars

Cà del BaioCà del Baio Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar laced vegetal notes and some underlying berry fruit mingled with nutmeg and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm tannic burr and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, but promises quite nicely, and will drink very well with grilled meats, roasts, or stews when it has its legs about it. Give it 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Cà del Baio Valgrande Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Cà del BaioAlmandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by tart acidity and pleasing slightly greenish spice. On the palate it's bright, with clean bright berry fruit acidity and sour berry fruit supported by smooth rather tart tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very young, and needs another 3-5 years to get its bearings; because of its acidity it will age very well, for a decade or more.2 stars

Michele ChiarloMichele Chiarlo Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and surprisingly young, with tart berry fruit supported by violets and greenish cedar, with spice as well. Nice balance, and quite young. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. It's up front and direct, and at present fairly one dimensional, but will age nicely -- there's enough acidity and the tannins are bright -- and could do quite interesting things with time. I would give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Poderi CollaPoderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated greenness supported by spice -- it brings to mind an After 8 Mint -- it's also very young and there isn't much fruit at present, though there is interesting tobacco. But the minty spice is nice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with acidic direction; not much tannin in finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats now, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Poderi Colla Tenuta Roncaglia Barbaresco 1999Poured from a magnum: Elegant almandine with brownish rim. Deft bouquet, with leather and rosa canina mingled with spice; it's quick to write but shows great depth and harmony, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, rich, and powerful, with intense red berry fruit supported by supple tannins and deft acidity. Great finesse, and I am much impressed.92

Carlo GiacosaCarlo Giacosa Narin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with fairly bright vegetal accents of the sort Nebbiolo can display, supported by spice and some leaf tobacco. Quite young, but pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish.2 stars

MoccagattaMoccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with vanilla and berry fruit whose interaction brings a Hostess cupcake to mind, with some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite young, and needs another year or two, but will be worth seeking out if you prefer a more international style of wine, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco 1999Brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with menthol and cedar -- there's quite a bit of oak to it, which is well integrated but obviously present -- and underbrush as well. Beautiful in an international key. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cedar laced bright cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and lasting warmth that flow into a warm peppery finish. A beautiful expression of the international style, and if you're an admirer of the style you will enjoy it very much. If you're more traditionally minded it will be less magical for you.88-90

Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled with greenish spice and red berry fruit supported by hints of berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and rich, with deft berry fruit -- raspberry with some cherry supported by raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. It's quite approachable in a middle of the road key, and will work well with succulent roasts or stews in the short term, while also aging well for a decade or more.2 stars

Nada GiuseppeNada Giuseppe Casot Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with coffee and chocolate, with some spice as well; there's less fruit than I might have liked. On the palate it's ample and fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins and savory spice, with moderate acidity as well. Nice balance in a youthful international key, and will drink will with grilled ,meats or roasts in the short term, though it will also age nicely too. Worth seeking out if you like the style.2 stars

PertinacePertinace Marcarini Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with green leather and animal tang mingled with stable straw and warmth; pleasant to sniff if you like the style. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by lively berry fruit acidity; it's quite pleasant if you like the style, and will drink very well with grilled meats or stews. Even if you generally like the studied richness of the more international style you'll find things to ponder, and it will age quite well too2 stars

Pertinace Nervo Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with vegetal accents mingled with spice and warmth. On the palate it's moderately rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some sweet tannins; I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found.1 star

Orlando AbrigoOrlando Abrigo Vigna Rongallo Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with the bright greenness typical of some Nebbioli, supported by cedar and spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have an aggressive warmth to them, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's very young, and needs 3-5 years, but presents quite well.2 stars

Orlando Abrigo Montersino Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rium. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nutmeg and spice mingled with berry fruit and some cedar; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, in a fairly direct berry fruit driven key, with moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods, also will age well for a decade or more. Middle of the road, and worth seeking out.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Orlando Abrigo Vigna Montersino Barbaresco 1999From a Magnum. Elegant black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with savory rather pungent dried prune fruit laced with leather and savory balsamic notes. Quite elegant, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively savory tannic minerality more than fruit, and flows into a clean tannic finish with lasting spicy warmth. It's more of a food wine than a sipping wine, and will work very well with a succulent roast, e.g. leg of lamb, or a stew.2 stars

Vigin Vigin Noemy Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with vegtal accents and spice, with some chocolate as well. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some clean bright savory tannins; it's quite young in a fairly oak-driven key, and needs another 2-3 years to get its bearings, though it will drink well with grilled meats or light roasts.2 stars

RizziRizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with saddle leather mingled with some animal accents and petroleum; there's also wet horse and some balsamic notes. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich leather savory minerality more than fruit, supported by warmth and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have a savory underpinning, and flow into a clean savory finish with lasting warmth. It's quite traditional, and if you like the style will drink well with grilled meats or light stews in the short term, though it also has the acidity necessary to age well -- a decade or more.2 stars

Rizzi Pajorè Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite elegant, with rich cherry fruit laced with rosa canina and spice; though it's quick to write there's a lot going on and rare harmony too. On the palate it's full, and rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by deft sour raspberry cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It' very young, and drinkable, though if you can you should give it another 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for many more years after that. Beautiful wine.90-91

Tasted in the afternoon:Rizzi Fondetta Barbaresco 1999Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and pungent with bright cedar mingled with sea salt and balsamic accents. Quite a bit of oak, it seems. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful savory minerality supported by warmth and acidity. It's particular, and you have to like the style: I would serve it more with foods than far from the table. It seems stylistically different from the 2006 -- much more oak -- though I would want to taste a complete vertical before coming to a conclusion.2 stars

PelisseroPelissero Nubiola Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity. On the palate it's direct, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by fairly bright tannins that flow into a fairly rich tannic finish. Direct, and up front, and this is in part because it is quite young, and needs time. 3-5 years, I would guess, by which point it may do very interesting things. In short, a wine to set aside, because it's not what it will become.2 stars

Pelissero Pasquale Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm berry fruit supported by some green leather and fairly deft spice, with hints of cedar and slight tar mingled with slight hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, with cherry fruit that's not quite as full as I expected, supported by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish; there's also not quite as much acidity as I might have hoped for -- the direction ends up coming from the tannic bitterness, and though it works it's not as interesting. In the wine's defense it is very young, and needs at least a couple of years to begin to show well.1 star

Eredi Lodali Eredi Lodali Lorens Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and vegetal, with greenish accents and berry fruit whose interaction brings a cupcake to mind, supported by heather and some sage. Quite a contribution from wood. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean decidedly cedar laced finish. A richly oaked wine, and if you like the style you will like it, because there is sufficient fruit to stand up to the wood, though you do have to like the style. Expect it to age well for 8-10 years.2 stars

RivettoRivetto Cè Vanin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, with underlying rosa canina and spice. Nice balance, and fairly rich. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and by smooth sweet youthful tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish. It's very young, a toddler, but will drink well with succulent red meats, and ahs the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more. Very traditional, and I found it growing upon me.2 stars

La Ganghija La Ganghija Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish spice that brings nettles to mind, supported by cedar and some green leather; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright acidity that flows into a tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out, and one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.88-90

Terrenostre Terrenostre Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some red berry fruit supported by rosa canina and cedar, with some mentholated accents as well, in addition to considerable alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and zesty tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. It's bright, in a tomboysh key, and though slender now will become ethereal with time, and is (I Think) a wine to wait for. Because it will have much more to sat in 5-8 years than it does now.2 stars

Fontanafredda Fontanafredda Coste Rubin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and spice, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or stews, and also has the capacity to age well for many years --10 at least. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, but will work very well with the dinner that follows it, and to my way of thinking that's more important.88

Terre da VinoTerre da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly cooked berry fruit supported by spice and berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and rich, with smooth fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; the acidity is quite sufficient to provide direction, though it's not really bracing. In short, middle of the road, and will drink nicely with a wide variety of meats in the short term; it also has the legs necessary to age well over time.2 stars

PrunottoPrunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by pleasing spice, a mix of nutmeg and hints of cinnamon, and a fair amount of warmth. Quite nice, in a middle of the road key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit fnish. Quite lìpleasant, and very young; it will drink nicely now with succulent meats -- lamb chops come to mind -- though it will richly reward those with the patience to give it a few years.2 stars

Cantina del PinoCantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with ripe berry fruit -- strawberries -- mingled with sweetness and greenish spice. Quite pleasant in a youthful key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with direct strawberry cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while the tannins are rich and peppery, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with a long tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a very youthful key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews now, though it will reward those who have the patience to give it a few years.2 stars

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Adriano Marco e Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2006Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with greenish raspberry fruit supported by vegetal accents and spice. Nice balance, and very young and decidedly greenish. On the palate it's again fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by savory bitterness and a fair amount of warmth, which flows into a warm tannic finish.1 star

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina mingled with leather and spice from grapes; it's still developing but pleasant in a traditional key, and will become complex with time. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, with the slightest of burrs, and promise to become velvety with time. Very pleasant in a traditional key; it's a child who will grow up to be a beautiful adult, and will be worth waiting for if you like the style. Even if you're of more modern tastes you'll find things to think about and enjoy. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Adriano Marco e Figlio Basarin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart rather graceful berry fruit supported by red currant acidity and some spice, nutmeg in particular, and some greenish accents mingled with wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly rich berry fruit acidity. Pleasant, though not quite as tightly woven as I might have liked; the acidity is nice and confers considerable life to the wine, which will age well for a decade or perhaps more.2 stars

Piazzo Armando Piazzo Armando Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal-laced jammy berry fruit supported by acidity and spice. Young, and obviously needs time. On the palate it's ample, rich, and direct, with bright savory berry fruit supported by clean spice and tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's approachable, in a middle of the road key, but needs time to come together and show its best -- 3- 5 years at least. I expect that it will do nice things over the next 10-15 years2 stars

Piazzo Armando Sorì Fratin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and alcoholic, with moderate berry fruit supported by spice and warmth, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's direct, with bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by fairly bright tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. Middle of the road tending towards traditional, and will drink quite well with foods in the short term, though it will also age nicely for a decade or more.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Commendator Armando Piazzo Barbaresco Riserva 1999Almandine with brown reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and deft, with berry fruit supported by some menthol and leaf tobacco; by comparison with some the nose has considerably more fruit to it, and fewer tertiary aromas -- there is also considerable deft acidity supporting it. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful savory berry fruit supported by deft acidity and rich tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. Still young, and though it will soften with time -- which will do beautiful things -- I very much enjoyed it now.90

Taliano MicheleTaliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2006Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is jammy, with berry fruit laced with strawberries and hints of raspberry acidity, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fairly rich cherry and strawberry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will work quite well with foods now, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Poderi EliaPoderi Elia Serracapelli Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with slightly brandied cherry raspberry fruit supported by a fair amount of acidity and some greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk peppery acidity and haunting greenish tannins that flow into a greenish tannic finish. Very young, and needs at least 2-3 years to be drinkable, will age nicely in middle of the road key for 10-15 years. Worth seeking out to set aside.2 stars

Barale FratelliBarale Fratelli Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rather ethereal rosa canina mingled with spice and red berry fruit, and a fair amount of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and a bit lighter than some, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display a degree of steel, though not much velvet yet. Will be quite pleasant in a graceful ethereal key when it has its legs about it -- in a year or two, and will age nicely for a decade at least.2 stars

CigliutiCigliuti Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with alcohol and some animal notes mingled with spice and cedar, and underlying rather sullen berry fruit. It doesn't seem happy. On the palate it's very young, with fauirly rich cherry fruit that's cut off at the knees by an angry peppery oaky burr that flows out to cover all else, and resolves into a fiery peppery finish. It's charged in an international heavily oaked key and simply not ready. At all; it will need 3-5 years to become approachable, and given the richness of the fruit that was present before the tannins asserted themselves, it will make it. But you have to like the style. The score reflects the present.1 star

Pietro RinaldiPietro Rinaldi San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and very young, with brash sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some cedar, it's clearly developing but quite pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by considerable warmth and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly long rather dry finish; it's still coming together but will be quite pleasant in a middle of the road key when it does, say 2-3 years, and age well for many more thereafter. Do give it the time it needs.2 stars

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneto 'L Ciaciaret Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with animal tang mingled with leather and some balsamic accents, and underlying berry fruit with mineral acidity and some alcohol. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm brambly finish. Traditional, and quite pleasant if you like the style; though it is (relatively) ready to drink now, it will also do interesting things with time, becoming lacy and ethereal.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneti L'Ciaciaret Barbaresco 1999Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rosa canina and dried floral accents mingled with nutmeg and spice, some cedar, savory warmth, and underlying berry fruit. Nice balance and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly direct berry fruit supported by savory tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's more interesting on the nose than on the palate, which is a touch settled, thanks to less acidity than I might have liked. Pleasant in any case, but mature and (I think) no longer climbing.2 stars

Lequio UgoLequio Ugo Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2006Elegant almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful sour cherry supported by rosa canina and hints of raspberry acidity and underlying green leather; it brings to mind a 20s siren giving a come hither look. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity -- hints of red currants in there too -- and by tannins that are smooth, and show hints of velvet, though they're also still quite young. One could drink it now with succulent red meats, but it will richly reward those blessed with the patience necessary to give it time. Many years, even. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Oddero Poderi e CantineOddero Poderi e Cantine Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with delicate strawberry and forest berry fruit supported by alcohol and rosa canina, with alcohol and hints of underbrush providing depth. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's ample and rich, and also quite young, with deft berry fruit supported by warm acidity and by tannins that are splintery, and have some tarry accents as they flow into a warm dry finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and very young; it needs 2-4 years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade or more.2 stars

Cascina SariaCascina Saria Barbaresco DOCG 2006Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich berry fruit supported by peppery spice and greenish cedar, with direction coming from the duskiness of the cedar, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's smoother than I expected, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity and by cedar laced tannins that do display a peppery burr but aren't really angry, and flow into a finish that is quite long, with considerable youthful warmth. It's quite approachable, in a middle of the road to international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; even the more traditionally minded will find things to think about, and it will age nicely for 10-15 years.2 stars

RessiaRessia Canova Barbaresco DOCG 2006Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and orange in rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and underlying spice. The overall impression is one of pleasant youthful directness; it's still developing. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by angry peppery tannins that overshadow most everything, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a squalling babe who needs time, at least a couple of years, and judging it now is rather like evaluating a toddler in the midst of a tantrum. Better to give it time, because the potential is there.2 stars

Tenuta San MauroTenuta San Mauro Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deft almandine with brownish black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by rosa canina and some green leather, with hints of leaf tobacco as well, and slight tar. Quite a bit going on, in a fairly traditional key, and it is inviting. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. The palate is behind the nose; it will in any case age nicely for a decade or more, and is rather graceful.2 stars

Bonino RomanoBonino Romano Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich cherry fruit that has a rather voluptuous feel to it -- not quite starlet in a glass, but in that direction -- supported by some charcoal and cut flowers. On the palate it's ample, rich, and charged, with considerable fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by well polished smooth sweet tannins that flow into a slightly jammy fruit finish. Quite approachable in an international key, and if you like a richer, more fruit driven style you will enjoy it. If you're more traditionally minded, it won't work as well for you. It's approachable now, but will also age nicely for a decade or more.2 stars

Giacosa FratelliGiacosa Fratelli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and some dusky dappled shade. On the palate it's ample and smooth, in a rich fruit driven key, with bright cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal a cedar-laced peppery burr that continues into the finish, which is fruit laced. It's very young, in a middle of the road key, and needs time, a couple of years at least, at which point it will work quite well with succulent red meats, and I think it will also age nicely for at least a decade. The palate is further along than the nose, though both need time.2 stars

Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Vigna Gian Matè Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft rosa canina and sour cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and some nutmeg. Pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are powerful, and have a youthful burr; it needs another couple of years to really come into its own, but will already drink now with succulent red meats. If you can bear infanticide, that is; it's a wine that is going places and it will be interesting to follow its journey. I would expect it to age quite well for 10-15 years.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Giacosa Fratelli Rio Sordo Barbaresco 1999Pale brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and nutmeg mingled with leaf tobacco and dried lfowers, with some rosa canina as well. Nice balance, with considerable elegance and depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft, bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rich and fairly smooth, flowing into a clean somewhat sour spicy finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, and also has the wherewithal to age well for another 5-10 years.89-91

Negro Angelo e FigliNegro Angelo e Figli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish spicy berry fruit supported by sea salt and slight stable straw, and also by a fair amount of greenish cedar. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable greenish cedar, some minty accents, and by deft berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's middle of the road in key, and needs a couple of years for the tannins to smooth in and come together; when they do it will work quite well with succulent meats. But do give it time.2 stars

Fontanabianca Fontanabianca Sorì Burdin Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina mingled with Moroccan leather and some dried flowers; there's also some minerality but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggested, with frankly zesty berry fruit supported by considerable almost lemony acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a long warm tart finish that lasts. It's quite young, in a traditional key, and the nose is still developing; it will age nicely and is worth considering if you're traditionally minded. If you prefer riper more fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you. In any case, give it time, because it will do interesting things.2 stars

Castello di NeiveCastello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar and some greenish accents with underlying bitterness and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense jammy berry fruit supported by sweet splintery tannins that flow into a warm slightly splintery tannic finish. It's lax, and I'd have liked more depth to the fruit, and also greater tightness overtones the weave of the wine.1 star

Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar and leather, supported by savory accents and pungent wood smoke; as it opens rosa canina also emerges, stepping to the fore. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by considerable peppery acidity and by tannins that are decidedly peppery and angry, and flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish. It's aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a few more years to develop because it is very much in angry mid stride now. With time -- many years -- it could become quite elegant in a rather ethereal key. But it's not there yet.2 stars

La ConteaLa Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and some pungent spice, but not much fruit. Other things are instead carrying the show. On the palate it's full, with generic red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an obvious cedary oaky component, and flow into a smooth rather bitter finish, the oak again making itself known. It's very young, and needs time to smooth the tannins, but I would have liked more freshness and fruit than I found. It is instead rather tired.1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:La Contea Ripa Fiorita Barbaresco 1999Lively almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery berry fruit supported by spice, warmth, and some balsamic accents. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh tannic finish with a greenish spicy underpinning. Nice balance in a fairly direct key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats; it's also still quite young.2 stars

PunsetPunset Campo Quadro Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents mingled with tart spice and the airiness of a fall afternoon; there's not that much fruit. On the palate it's full with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by fairly rich tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The palate is ahead of the nose, and I found myself rather liking it; it has a pleasant acidity that promises long life. If the nose follows the palate, it will do interesting things, though I would give it 3-5 years to develop, and expect it to age for at least 15. In short, a wine for the future, not for today.2 stars

Punset Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with considerable balsam mingled with leather and some stable straw, with savory accents and hints of smoke and petroleum as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful, bright sour cherry fruit supported by cheeky sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, and have slight savory leathery accents, flowing into a tart finish with some hints of petroleum. It's frankly old style, and if you like the old style you will enjoy it. If you're of more modern tastes you won't but it will work well with succulent red meats regardless. In short, for some but not for all.2 stars

Punset Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by warmth and some greenish accents. One track at present. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean tart finish. The palate is much more interesting than the nose, and I would give the nose time to develop. This said, it's bright in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent red meats, though as I said, I would give it time. It grew upon me.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Punset Barbaresco 1999Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with greenish berry fruit supported by alcohol and spice from grapes: it comes across as quite intense and quite young, and though it's not going in several directions, it hasn't completely settled either. Not bad for a wine that's 10 years old. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean bright sour cherry finish. A very young wine with considerable depth that still has many years ahead of it, but will already drink quite well with stews and roasts now. Impressive and vibrant in its youth.88-90

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 1999Lively almandine ruby with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright and rich in a fairly traditional key, with balsamic notes and spice supported by leaf tobacco and leafy vegetal accents, as well as sea salt. On the palate it's full, rich, and more delicate than the Barbaresco Base, with deft sour berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet rather green tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with lasting warmth and a greenish tannic Nebbiolo underpinning. Impressive, and will drink very well now with succulent red meats - a Porterhouse comes to mind - though if you can bear to give it more time it will put it to very good use.90-91

A few more Camp Quadros, tasted at Vinitaly in March 2009:Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2001Pale almandine with almandine ruby rim. Bright bouquet with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by spice and some rosa canina. Vigorous and very young for a 2001; it's also pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich with vigorous cherry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite nice and still very young; an excellent example of a superb vintage that will age well for many more years.90-91

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2003Pale almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, and more along than the 01's, with leaf tobacco and berry fruit supported by considerable alcohol and some fresh peppery spice. Nice balance and not overripe, which is an achievement, considering how hot the 2003 summer was. On the palate it's full and smooth with fairly rich leathery cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tart acidity. It is much more mature than the 01, almost to the point that comparing them is like comparing apples and oranges, but a nice interpretation of 2003.2 stars

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2004Almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich berry fruit supported by jammy accents and some vegetal notes. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with bitter red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth berry fruit acidity and slightly greenish tannins that flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant in a youthful zesty key and will work very well with foods, though it will richly reward those blessed with patience.90-91

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2005Lively almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bright berry fruit supported by hints of green leather and rosa canina, while there is also some cedar, and deft acidity. On the palate it's full, rich and very young, with powerful rather scrappy acidity supporting greenish berry fruit -- it was a cooler, wetter vintage -- that flows into a clean fresh greenish finish. It's quite elegant in a cooler vintage key, and will drink very well with red meats. I would expect it to be longer lived than the 2003, though not as long-lived as either the 2001 or the 2004.2 stars

Rivetti MassimoRivetti Massimo Froi Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with saddle leather mingled with rosa canina and bright berry fruit, also some nutmeg and slight greenish accents. Graceful and cheeky, too. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean bright cherry finish. It's graceful in a sinuous way, and will become willowy with time; one oculd drink it now, but it has a charm to it that will increase with time. Worth seeking out if you prefer the traditional, more acidic style, and even if you prefer less acidic wines you will find things to enjoy. I would give it 3-5 years at least, and expect it to age well for 10-15 or more.88-90

BattaglioBattaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some bitterness mingled with spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a tart savory finish. The nose is behind the palate, which I rather enjoyed; assuming it follows the palate's lead the wine will clean up nicely, in a fairly traditional key, and work well with grilled meats or light stews, But it needs a couple of years to come together. At present it's out in left field.1 star

Fattoria San GiulianoFattoria San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by mentholated greenish spice, and by fairly rich jammy accents; it gives an impression of being in a hurry and also in mid stride. On the palate it's ample, bright, and also fairly sweet, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and cedar laced tannins, while there is an undercurrent of sweetness too -- not much, but it is there -- that flows into a clean rather green finish. It's particular, going in its own direction, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style; because of its brightness it will work well with succulent meats, and also age well for many years.2 stars

Dante RivettiDante Rivetti Bricco Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich rosa canina mingled with dried flowers and nutmeg, with sweetish accents as well, and some strawberry that can happen with a young Nebbiolo; quite pleasant to sniff and has a lot to say -- as it opens interesting greenish jammy notes also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by sweet tannins that have some greenish overtones and flow into a tart greenish finish. I found it more settled on the palate than the nose, and think this may be a phase the wine is in. In other words, I'd give it 3-5 years, and expect it to do interesting things by then.2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:Dante Rivetti Bricco Barbaresco Riserva 1999Almandine with brownish almandine reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a traditional key, with considerable savory balsamic acidity supported by stable straw and savory spice, and greenish leaf tobacco as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's full and rich with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into lasting warmth. Elegant in a traditional key and will work very well with food; it's a little too nervous to work as a meditation wine, but will continue to age well for another decade at least.2 stars

PrinsiPrinsi Fausone Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim,. The bouquet is rustic, with balsam and wet stable straw mingling with savory notes and Moroccan leather; there's not much fruit, but there is lathered horse and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich, leathery cherry fruit supported by a sweetness that brings cola to mind, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm leathery tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, and the sweetness is odd too. Particular, and not for all.1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:Prinsi Barbaresco Gallina 1999Almandine with black reflections and lam rim becoming orange in the nail. The bouquet is rich, with cedar-laced duskiness supported by berry fruit and greenish vegetal accents, with warmth and some tingly acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm rather splintery peppery burr, and flow into a warm fairly tart berry fruit finish. It is pleasant, but not quite as deft as I thought it would be -- the palate stumbles, as it were.2 stars

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.