Hi! gee, this thread is awesome~ I'm just now learning about the one piece glass install. I just came back from my garage and found out my drivers side has nothing regarding the glass/regulator/ the channel is still in place(thank goodness), and I do have the vent frame out of the door, but the passenger side is still complete and intact. Should I go ahead and buy new window regulators anyway.
I'm just now searching for a place to cut my glass(here in Houston, there should be a place), just the tempering portion I'm not sure of.

Hi! gee, this thread is awesome~ I'm just now learning about the one piece glass install. I just came back from my garage and found out my drivers side has nothing regarding the glass/regulator/ the channel is still in place(thank goodness), and I do have the vent frame out of the door, but the passenger side is still complete and intact. Should I go ahead and buy new window regulators anyway.
I'm just now searching for a place to cut my glass(here in Houston, there should be a place), just the tempering portion I'm not sure of.

I've used Affordable on Hilcroft they had the windsheild for my 58, They may be able to cut the side glass or get you to some one that can. Also over by I-10 west and the beltway there is a large glass supplier. Its next to the Bison lumber yard.

Howdy window guru dudes! I have printed the templates and makimng the decoy was a breeze....I have a relationship with the local glass guy and am getting two light green tinted pieces cut polished and tempered for $130.00.
So i have read all the issues with the stainless window tracks and maybe i missed it but i wonder, do you have to use the stainless or did you just like it? I would rather not have the shiney on mine anyway. Anyone have a sorce or part # for just a regular black one? Thanks for any help you can give

Howdy window guru dudes! I have printed the templates and makimng the decoy was a breeze....I have a relationship with the local glass guy and am getting two light green tinted pieces cut polished and tempered for $130.00.
So i have read all the issues with the stainless window tracks and maybe i missed it but i wonder, do you have to use the stainless or did you just like it? I would rather not have the shiney on mine anyway. Anyone have a sorce or part # for just a regular black one? Thanks for any help you can give

I think you can get it either way. Mine came with it but I peeled it off. It's crimped on and and will just slide off.

OKGMC4.....Ever find a solution for using bear claws?? Or did you go with the original door latches?

I got a pair of new latches and strikes from LMC. They work fine. There's just so little room to do bear claws and the window track mod together. The back of the track is just about touching the back of the latch. And the doors seem so tight, it's hard to imagine it coming unlatched...but I also rebuilt the door hinges at the same time. I can bet a flopping door with worn strikes and loose latches would let it come undone.

I got a pair of new latches and strikes from LMC. They work fine. There's just so little room to do bear claws and the window track mod together. The back of the track is just about touching the back of the latch. And the doors seem so tight, it's hard to imagine it coming unlatched...but I also rebuilt the door hinges at the same time. I can bet a flopping door with worn strikes and loose latches would let it come undone.

yes they will, some of my daughters best memories are of the passenger door coming open and them leaning out (belted in) to pull it shut. Also bouncing on the orignal spring seat on bumpy dirt roads. There is a reason you saw the old timers driving around with theirs arms hanging out the windows over the doors!

Wanted to bump this back up as well as say thanks. In my 56 TF, I have one of the original brothers one piece window kits, the felt is worn out and I need to replace it. Question, could I add the front channel for the felt to sit in without doing the mod to the back channel? I do have the universal power windows as well. Again, great job BlackDiesel.

Wanted to bump this back up as well as say thanks. In my 56 TF, I have one of the original brothers one piece window kits, the felt is worn out and I need to replace it. Question, could I add the front channel for the felt to sit in without doing the mod to the back channel? I do have the universal power windows as well. Again, great job BlackDiesel.

yes you can, i think brothers is doing it that way now also. Wonder if they read this thread also.... lol

Blackdiesel I just have to say thank you for doing the hard work ahead of time. I almost bought the Brothers one piece kit but luckily found this thread first. I believe I will go the route you guys did and get the template and make it myself. Glad you thought of moving the rear channel back because I saw how some others fit in other folks trucks that they were not happy with. Yours makes sense. I thank you and my 57 chevy thanks you! Now I need to find someone who has done a big back window install......

I have a couple of Brothers one piece glass side windows I can't use because I chopped my top. They come very close to fitting but are just a little too long and bind in the rear channel right at the top where the window has to tip forward. If one of you who is more industrious than I can use these for a good deal price, PM me. I have the original packaging for shipping and the windows are the grey tint that Brothers offers. I'm making a template and having new glass cut and tempered.

Great thread and a lot of really good information. My truck already had one-piece door glass installed when I bought it. They do not seem to rattle, so I hope both side channels installed-- I guess time will tell.

The window channel weatherstrip and belting strip whiskers are another story-- cheap and poorly installed.

In the thread, someone specified these part numbers: 2 each Y528-96-WIN, 1 each M123-96-WIN and 1 each MR172X-96-WIN (enough material for both doors). Can someone confirm that these are the correct part numbers for a 1959 3100?

I am getting ready to order my glass. I did not see where anyone addressed the thickness. Is the replacement glass you guys are getting the same thickness as original, or thinner? I assume the window channel is available for different thicknesses?

Also in the video you bend the channel around the window after the back (latch side) track is welded in. Is it a correct assumption you can reach both the front and back track thru the large door opening to "mash" them into the channels? I have my doors buried and cannot get to them to do a arm length test!