Need help hooking up

This is a discussion on Need help hooking up within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; PM sent-- I hate to add parts without understanding. I was talking to a supplier about buying shocks to help ...

PM sent-- I hate to add parts without understanding. I was talking to a supplier about buying shocks to help xfer weight to get traction and he said you have to get traction first before you xfer weight. Trying to understand the 4cyl spring since the RS axle is trying to raise at launch and the body is trying to come down on it wouldnt the softer spring work against this and why do they put an air bag in the right side?

Hi, The air bag helps prevent the RS axle from jumping up, by pushing down on it. I used the bags then upgraded to the anti roll bar that replaces the rear sway bar. It really works great ! Both front tires come up even, with-out any air bags. I'm using the stock springs on my car, QA1 adjustables on front, set on softest, and on rear, set a little stiffer on right. ( 6-7 )

Heres a 3720lbs. G body with some JUNKYARD V-6 springs running LOW 10's. Took a picture on the lift today while putting on some NEW SpinTech race mufflers on. Like I've stated multiple times they work great in EVERY stock framed car I have installed them in. Unibody cars see the best improvement on the street in my opion.
It is like having a fast car on street radial and changing to a MT drag radial.

You convinced me that softer 6cyl springs in the rear enable front to rear weight transfer. My question is will weight transfer if you just spin and dont get any hook when you launch??

I think I understand what your asking...... And No it needs to work as a unit..... The front end needs to be able to rise while the rear has to be soft enough to squat = weight transfer.
If your car is a stock SS it is even worse. They designed your car for handling NOT drag racing. You have Very stiff stock springs and your valving in the struts and shocks are the same. Not to mention the fat swaybar in the front limits your front end travel GREATLY!!! We have done measurements before and seen as much as 9" of travel being held back by the swaybar. There is a way to aid without removing the endlinks totally.
The front needs to be able to rise easily and the back needs to absorb the intial hit.

On the psi statement there is much needed info left out..... Such as your rim width and dia. and tire size. We run Mickeys on 3 of our cars 2 having the same size and they both like different pressures at the same track.

I wanted to lower my car and not get screwd at the track because I had a stiff susp.So I have QA1 r coil overs for the front to transfer the weight to the the rear and a set of BMR 1 inch lowering springs for the rear. This should let me transfer weight and plant the tires down in the rear.I do have a complete BMR susp to help and relocation brackets for my control arms and MT street radials.Cant wait to test it out.I have 430 rwhp,380tq.

I wanted to lower my car and not get screwd at the track because I had a stiff susp.So I have QA1 r coil overs for the front to transfer the weight to the the rear and a set of BMR 1 inch lowering springs for the rear. This should let me transfer weight and plant the tires down in the rear.I do have a complete BMR susp to help and relocation brackets for my control arms and MT street radials.Cant wait to test it out.I have 430 rwhp,380tq.

If they are the same BMR springs one of my customers had good luck.
Can you press on the corner of your car and it compresses,or is it stiff like a truck. Well the BMR he had were stiff like a stock SS spring anyways we took them out and put some V-6ers and it was night and day. His 60 ft went from like a 2.0 to a 1.82-1.79 depending on the track with just the spring change.

Loose front and stiff rear is what I thought . You want your front to raise and transfer weight to the rear axle so that the tires are planted to the ground.If your back was way loose it would absorb a lot of the transferd weight.Seems like your way works though.The customer that had the BMR springs did he have a built susp and what did he have for front shocks/springs.He probably had a BMRs up front also which did not help.

NO the rear needs to be able to squat to make the weight transfer work period. The planting of the tires is done by having the pinion angle correct not by having a stiff rear spring.
If the rear does not squat I don't care how easy the front moves it will not take advantage of weight transfer.

And the customer I was refering to had stock V-6 springs in the front. Building up the suspensoin with after market arms and such isn't doing squat if you aren't even hookink up enough to flex or bend the stock arms.
The only upgrade that is really needed in the rear suspension the most is adj. uppers so you can set the pinion angle where it needs to be.

Once again as I've stated many times on here in many threads the rear needs to be soft enough to where I can walk up and push on the corner of the vehical and use my bodt weight and compress it. Now on IRS it is different but a rigid solid axle is all the same.I don't care what body the rear suspension is under as long as it has a coil spring and 4 bars the spring can't tell what it is in.

Thats my 2 cents take or leave it. All I can add is I have a stock rear suspension car doing 1.28 60 fts ALL day on a 275/60/15 drag radial with a rollbar. NO back half or cage or 15x15's just a 15X8 wheel. And yes it has stock springs ALL the way around from the junkyard.

Hmm Ok my case 00 Z28 stripper (no options) few boltons (lid, True duals,LS6 intake no headers free mods) With WS6 springs which are way stiffer than my stock ones were (car sits 1/2 inch over stock height), SFC's, LCA's, adj PHR, 315 tires-spins like its on ice with stock 2.73's? I know my rear end is stiff as I cant push it down manually more than 1/4 inch. I can get in the back and it won't squat much at all. Yet even with a good burnout of those big 315's (not DR's but with a 160 Treadwear they are pretty soft in comparison to most street tires) will not hook at even a measly 1k stall. My best 60 is 2.111 best et is 13.3 with traps in the 106-107 range. So with this V6 springs should help out alot?

Hmm Ok my case 00 Z28 stripper (no options) few boltons (lid, True duals,LS6 intake no headers free mods) With WS6 springs which are way stiffer than my stock ones were (car sits 1/2 inch over stock height), SFC's, LCA's, adj PHR, 315 tires-spins like its on ice with stock 2.73's? I know my rear end is stiff as I cant push it down manually more than 1/4 inch. I can get in the back and it won't squat much at all. Yet even with a good burnout of those big 315's (not DR's but with a 160 Treadwear they are pretty soft in comparison to most street tires) will not hook at even a measly 1k stall. My best 60 is 2.111 best et is 13.3 with traps in the 106-107 range. So with this V6 springs should help out alot?

YES I'M POSITIVE IT WILL MAKE NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE!!!
And you should be able to get them for $20-35 each.
Do you have any idea what your pinion angle is at?
Also those BFG's don't like BIG burnouts.

In my experience, pinion angle has never made a big deal, so long as it is a bit negative. I don't like the idea of a car sitting higher in the rear, as that makes the car work harder to put the weight on the rear wheels.

I don't necessarily agree with a really soft rear setup. There needs to be some give in it for sure, but not enough that it starts to twist up due to the torque on launch. Personally, I like to use airbags and adjustable shocks with stock springs. Passenger side airbag ~20-ish psi and shock set a bit above 1/2 firm, driver's side ~5psi and shock set 1 or 2 notches softer.

NOTE: My reference is to a 4-link setup (ala Mustang), and may not be applicable to a 3-link setup (ala F-body).