Toronto couple Dana Ross and Sean Hutchison dwell at Queen St. E. and Pape Ave., with their 8-month-old son, Leo. They have a passion for wine and are making their dream come true.

In 2009, they bought a small plot of vines in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France during a holiday trip. Then they partnered with a local wine maker to produce wine.

Their first vintage, Reine et Pape Cuvee Ellena 2011 Syrah, has made it to our shores. Ellena is the name of Hutchison’s mother, who was claimed by lung cancer in 2005.

Quantities are tiny, with only 240 cases produced of the 100 per cent Syrah. They kindly gave me a sample bottle to try. The nose shows lavender, which is typical for Syrah and for the soils of the region, as well as blackberry and a hint of rustic barnyard. The flavours are very concentrated, with kirsch, cedar and smoky sour cherry dominating. It’s still intensely tannic from 18 months in new oak.

I found one negative note, a definite dill pickle presence (acetic acid, a.k.a. vinegar) which in small amounts is normal, but at higher levels becomes a flaw. The level of this must be adjusted, as it’s not yet dominant. I rate their red at 88.

The couple meanwhile are keeping their day jobs in Toronto. Local restaurants have been grabbing up a supply. It is only available privately, at $18 a bottle but just by the case. Details are at www.reineetpape.com.

In the current Vintages release of new wines, I have as usual selected my top five affordable luxury wines, fully reviewed with bottle images here.

Beronia winemaker Matias Calleja had a fortieth anniversary tasting of his wines in Toronto the other day, and it was amazing that their first vintage, 1973, was still drop dead gorgeous. The critics around me were equally impressed.

Calleja does some very avant-garde things, including using what he called “mixed barrels” on some wines. The heads of the barrels are French oak, and the staves are American wood! Nothing like having fun in the winery, and creating winning wines in the process.

And cognoscenti may be interested in the return of Saintsbury 2009 Pinot Noir (#359265, $34.95, 91), a refined Carneros red, with smoke, cherry pulp, mocha and blackberry prowess layered in a super smooth delivery.

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