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This kit started out with two of our own 800 etec Boondocker Summits. When I took the 1 etec to their headquarters to see if they themselves could get it to run and they couldn't. I knew we had some major design flaws. So we tore into it and found them. The Polaris and Arctic Cat motors are a bit of a simpler design and aftermarket companies can get away with some of the smoke and mirror tricks they do to get these turbos kits fueled properly. The 800 Etec is a lot more of a sophisticated engine and doesn't put up with the band aid approach. For the most part, aftermarket kits have good hard parts but the electronics are weak. Things that we found wrong with their electronics were: batch firing of the auxiliary injectors (no matter which cylinder is on its intake stroke both aux fuel injectors spray), can't command boost less than the spring in the waste gate (completely dependent on the mechanical spring), absolutely NO ignition timing control, no closed loop auto tune, and constantly manually adjusting fuel box settings that makes no sense trying to target tune to the environment.

Our kit re-plumbs the external wastegate and comes with a new 1lb spring. With the light spring in the wastegate if something goes wrong that the ECU picks up on it will automatically turn the boost and timing down while richening the fuel until the ECU calculates the engine is operating correctly. The wastegate is controlled through the ECU via an electronic air solenoid. The sled will auto tune with fuel, timing, knock, and boost control always adjusting whatever needed to hit the target rpm that your sled is clutched for.

Here is how our engine strategy works on snowmobiles; the ECU is always going to do whatever it takes to hit the target max engine rpm of 8150 on the 800 ETEC. We use a feed forward knock control so the ecu is constantly managing fuel, boost, ICT, and timing dynamically to give it as much as possible without creating detonation. The ECU goes for timing before boost. Added boost creates higher ICTs so the engine is going to always go for max timing before adding boost in order to keep the ICTs as cold as possible. Now if you set your clutch and gearing up weak and you are at sea level on a cold day, the ECU might only call for 2 lbs of boost to hit its target 8150. If you set the clutching and gearing up aggressively the ECU will apply whatever it takes to hit 8150 via more boost, timing, and fuel. If the ECU picks up on detonation (knock) it will not push the engine harder to hit its target. Your only choice at that point will be to use better fuel or come back on your clutching and gear. We hate saying the phrase altitude compensating due to the fact that other companies have been claiming it for years. Their strategy claiming altitude compensation is by using a barometric pressure sensor in their fuel/boost control box to reference altitude and command more/less boost based on the baro sensor reading. Yes, our kit is altitude compensating but it is much more complex than that. We are dynamically calculating at all times the density of oxygen entering into the engine. There is a whole lot more that goes into this algorithm then just referencing a baro sensor and commanding the boost up based off baro when you go up in altitude.