Mulger bill wrote:Yep, read the book at least three times before you touch anything and find a scruffy old wheel you can pull down and rebuild for practice.

+1

Oh BTW I'd buy extras in spokes and nipples. You never know when/if a spoke will break (after the build) and extra nipples - just in case

+1 on the spare spokes and nipples, but I don't think the book is necessary, all the info you need is on Sheldon's site and miketechinfo.com. Pulling an old wheel apart may not be such a good idea as rebuilding an old wheel is MUCH harder than starting from scratch

True - the book is not a necessity, but it's in a pdf printable format as a book and I found it easy to use a reference at the workbench (or where ever I was at the time). Never seen the miketechinfo site, so I'll take a look. But the info/layout of the book worked for me at the time.There seems to be many ways to build a wheel if you troll the web (youtube, websites, books) I think it's matter of finding the process that works, and works for you in a way that you understand.

All mavic and Fulcrum Wheels, that and Mavic wheels have their spokes "freeze" into the rims so a new rim ($100+ part) is sometimes required too if you need to true your wheel. The alloy spokes they use also have terrible Aero data, worse than a 32/3x wheel

To the OP: Don't use the Sapim Laser on the DS, I strongly advise against it, if your building yourself avoid it altogether. Spend more and go CX-Ray, the bladed profile will make your job much easier, just make sure the hubs are slotted, also make sure your hubs can be laced radial as some hubs are not designed for this

My view is that amateur wheel builders like me (I have only built around 100 wheels over 35 years) should stick to robust wheel designs with lots of spokes (28 upwards). I feel that the newer wheel designs with very few spokes need everything to be exactly right, including choice of spokes/nipples etc. In these 35 years I have never broken a spoke, but I would still not be willing to build a 16 spoke front wheel. A catastrophic wheel failure is not something I ever want to experience and I would personally prefer to get a low spoke count wheel from a manufacturer that has built (and therefore tested) a lot of them. I would certainly not then also look to build with lightweight components.

I have personally just bought a set of Shimano C50 wheels for racing, because they have a reputation for reliability and robustness. They were not the lightest nor the most aerodynamic, but I won't be worrying (too much) if I hit a pothole at 70kph.

I partially agree with you, rim weight greater than 400g and a 28 count on the rear for first timers, doesn't matter on the front though. Once you have a bit of experience you could build with something more exotic, but I'd stick with a 28 rear as the margin for error on a 24 is much smaller than on a 28. This is because each adjustment of a spoke has a greater effect on the trueness of a wheel when you have less spokes. The more spokes you have the less effect each turn of the spoke wrench has on the trueness of the wheel

Heres what i'm gonna do. Lace the hub to the wheels and leave the rest to my LBS because i really want to save weight. As for buying extra parts, I dont think im going to since im on a REALLY REALLY REALLY tight budget (im 13 ) I'll upload my new setup later cause im in a rush right now.

15wilsonwu wrote:Heres what i'm gonna do. Lace the hub to the wheels and leave the rest to my LBS because i really want to save weight. As for buying extra parts, I dont think im going to since im on a REALLY REALLY REALLY tight budget (im 13 ) I'll upload my new setup later cause im in a rush right now.

15wilsonwu wrote:Heres what i'm gonna do. Lace the hub to the wheels and leave the rest to my LBS because i really want to save weight. As for buying extra parts, I dont think im going to since im on a REALLY REALLY REALLY tight budget (im 13 ) I'll upload my new setup later cause im in a rush right now.

I'd personally up the spoke count to 24/28 on the XR-200 rims and lace the front wheel 1x instead of 0x or radial. Radial lacing puts extra strain on the hubs and if the hubs are not designed for it you could find some nasty cracks... since they (BHS) don't specify I'd be safe and lace 1x (or you could flick them an email and ask)

usernameforme wrote:I'd personally up the spoke count to 24/28 on the XR-200 rims and lace the front wheel 1x instead of 0x or radial. Radial lacing puts extra strain on the hubs and if the hubs are not designed for it you could find some nasty cracks... since they (BHS) don't specify I'd be safe and lace 1x (or you could flick them an email and ask)

Yea, thats what I did, they said I should use radial lacing for 20h or below. BTW, this set of wheels are for racing, I wouldnt use them too often, so I dont think I'm gonna need more spokes.

usernameforme wrote:I've never dealt personally with them, but My friends have received their goods. a few emails asking them about wheelbuilding makes me think they know a thing or two too. Looks legit to me

I agree with you, they answered everything I asked them within 12 hours. Oh and, do you consider theese light for climbing wheels?

no worries, happy to help; reminds me of when I wanted to do my first wheelbuild and pestered everyone about that... are you familiar with how to lace a wheel? Lacing a wheel wrong is very easy; I still make mistakes if I'm not paying attention

usernameforme wrote:no worries, happy to help; reminds me of when I wanted to do my first wheelbuild and pestered everyone about that... are you familiar with how to lace a wheel? Lacing a wheel wrong is very easy; I still make mistakes if I'm not paying attention

Yes I am, after watching hundreds of youtube videos (literally), im confident I can do it without stuffing up. I might even be able to do it without the help of my LBS.

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