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Building a Candlefish 13

I started this project in the summer of 2014, but really didn't get very far until the spring of 2016. Now I'm moving along well and wanted to share my progress, as well as ask questions from time to time. A couple of other Candlefish builds have been documented on this forum, and I continue to reference them.

I created the scarf joints using the step method and a planer. I tried a number of methods on scrap wood, and preferred this method.

I used a 2x4 on one side to keep the sheets of scarfed plywood aligned while I glued them.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

I had to get creative to keep some of the panels aligned properly, but it worked long enough for me to tab the underside. Here is a look at all of the panels stitched. It was at this point when my wife came out to the garage to put some cans in the recycle bin, and she said "Wow, you're really building a boat!"

I really started to get excited after taking out the stitches. It was a lot easier than I expected, and the hull kept its form with zero issues.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

A lot of this work happened between June and now, picking away at it when I could. This weekend I did some filling, fairing, and sanding to get ready for taping the seams. I also glassed the scarf joints for adding strength.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

I have a problem. Somehow I cut the transom too low. The piece where the outboard attaches is the proper depth, but as you can see from the picture below, the sides of the transom do not meet the sheer panel. I'm wondering if it's okay to epoxy a piece on to both sides using a butt joint. Will the give the transom enough strength, as I don't think these pieces will have as much strain. If it's okay, then do I attach the corner knees below the add-on, or do I attach them to the pieces added on?

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

SmileAndWave,

The butt joint will fail. Assuming that the transom is built from three layers of 12mm plywood I would use a 1/4" slot cutting router bit like Rockler Item #: 92200, http://www.rockler.com/3-wing-slotti...bits-1-4-shank. The repair will be easier once you have turned the hull over. Using the same reference surface cut a slot in about the middle of the edge of the transom and the added on pieces. Cut a spline out of 6mm plywood long enough for the slot you cut and 25mm wide. Bevel the edges of the spline so it is easier to install when covered with epoxy. Dry fit to make sure everything goes together well. Coat the spline, transom and add on pieces with neat (un-thickened) epoxy. While that is soaking, in mix up some thickened epoxy with Colloidal Silica (West Systems 406) to peanut butter consistency. Fill the slots about 1/4 full and cover the other matting surfaces. Put the spline in the slot and then the matting pieces on the spline. Have several battens ( 25mm x 50mm) covered in packing tape. Clamp or tape the battens and the added in pieces to the transom.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Thanks for the reply Randy. I like your suggestion about creating the slotted joint. Sam Devlin also told me I would be fine if I glued another 1/4" panel to the transom to support the repair. If I do both the slot and the 1/4" backing, it should be good.

Your CF-13 looks great. What has your experience been like with it on the water? I too was thinking about a 15hp, does that move it along nicely?

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

SmileAndWave,

With two people and gear it takes just over 1/2 throttle to get FISH TACO on plane and she jumps to about 16kts. I have done 18.8kts at less than 3/4 throttle and that was fast enough!!! If I was going to do it again I would go with the 9.9hp but I also wanted the electric start and power tilt. I have a manual start 9.9hp mercury that I could have used but it is a short shaft so I would have had to cut the transom down to fit.

With just one person at less than planing speed the nose will be the air so you will need the sliding seat thwart and transom wedges called out in the plans. I also use a tiller extension so I can move forward. Fish Taco only weights about 120lbs without motor and gear so she pounds when she hits a wake. I plan to add water ballast under the bridge deck in the form of water jugs.

I made some changes from Sam's plans.

The bilge is covered with 6oz glass to 150mm above the bottom chine for wear resistance.

I replaced bulkhead #4 with a 25mm x 38mm piece of Mahogany and 12mm seat supports. I was afraid of tripping over the bulkhead; Sam drew it at 81mm high.

I replaced the plywood frames with Alaskan Yellow Cedar as you can see in the photo.

I am in the process of installing the inwales with blocks so I can tie off the bumpers.

I moved bulkhead #2 (25mm) and #3 (75mm) forward to increase the space between bulkheads #3 and #4 for fishing and crabbing.

The bridge deck is made from two layers of 4mm ply laminated in place instead of 9mm ply so I could have the hatch flush with the deck.

Built up the transom with Starboard since the transom was too thin to mount the 15hp.

I recommend that you read Russel Brown's Epoxy Basics; it is a great resource. I used his filleting recipe and squeegee bags to made some fine fillets with little clean up. I faired with System Three's Quikfair which is expensive but saved a lot of time. I also used System Three's SilverTip Yacht Primer and WR-LPU topcoat which both clean up with water.

FISH TACO will be at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this year.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Grant,

Here is how I glassed the hull of my CF-13.
All the chines and keel on the outside of hull have 4 inch tape then each half of hull is covered with the 50 inch cloth with a 300mm overlap at the keel. On the inside of the hull all the chines are taped with 4 inch tape and the upper chines are also have 6 inch tape. The bottom is covered with the 50 inch cloth to 150mm above the lower chines. Sam has the inside keel and lower chines covered with the 4 inch tape and then the 6 inch tape.

Before I put on the outside glass on I knocked down the 4 inch cloth with 80 grid sand paper then faired the glass tape to the hull. For the fairing I used West Systems 407 Low-Density Filler.

I am not sure what you mean by "space between the seam and the tape."? Is the seam the chine? Can you send me a photo?

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

The boat looks great. As for a motor, I'd stick with the 15 hp. I've got a Sam Devlin Cackler, which is 14' long with a 5' beam. Heavier then your boat also. With a 15hp 4-stroke, it can just barely get on plane with my wife and I on board. Add one more person and it just plows through the water. I can't tell from Randy's picture whether he has a 2 or 4-stroke on his boat. 4-strokes weight a friggin' ton as compared to an old 2 stroke, which makes a big difference.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Rich,

I have a Suzuki 15hp four stroke that weights 108lbs plus 38lbs for the battery. The motor and battery weighs more than the boat does. Fish Taco planes easily with three people. I kick the throttle a little above 1/2 to get her on plane then throttle back to 1/2 to get a smooth ride.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Grant,

I don't know how to fix this. I had delaminations of the glass but they were at the edges of the tape but not at the chine. I would grind a hollow into the glass then epoxy in a piece of glass slight larger than the hollow, sand it smooth and finally seal it with another coat of epoxy.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Originally Posted by RLT

Grant,

I don't know how to fix this. I had delaminations of the glass but they were at the edges of the tape but not at the chine. I would grind a hollow into the glass then epoxy in a piece of glass slight larger than the hollow, sand it smooth and finally seal it with another coat of epoxy.

Maybe someone else can give their suggestion. David G?

Randy

All fixed. I took a sharp knife and made a cut at the seam and poured in epoxy, and the 6" tape is going over that. I learned my lesson...keep an eye on the tape for awhile to watch for drips and air pockets that form, and then you can just roll them out. It's looking good now. Probably quite trivial to the veteran boat builders, but not so obvious to me. LOL

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

I haven't posted in awhile but I've been making pretty good progress. Wow, I sometimes wonder if I over did it with the fairing and sanding, because that took a long time. This weekend I hope to finish the epoxy coats. The keel and stem is also ready.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Originally Posted by Rich Jones

It's looking good! I'm taking a close look at this design to replace my aging stitch and glue boat.

Thank you Rich. Sam Devlin also has a Candlefish 16 which I really like. The main reason for me choosing the Candlefish 13 was to have more room in my garage. I know I will be very happy with it, but if I had to start again I would opt for the Candlefish 16.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

This weekend I will be sanding to prepare for painting. I also have my keel, stem, and skegs ready, but not sure what to do about the gunwales. They are 3/4" x 1.5". How difficult is it to conform to the curve along the top of the sheer?

Another thing I'm thinking about is should I tack the bulkheads in place with epoxy before the flip, or flip the hull and then do the seams before putting the bulkheads into place?

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Originally Posted by jim_cricket

Good going. Looking for reports on your new Tohatsu. Good luck finishing and launching!

Hi Jim, and thanks. I was just saying in another post that Tohatsu makes very reliable motors durable for salt and fresh water. They've been around for 60 years and manufacture for other companies including Evinrude. My father has had one for a few years now, and it works like on day one. I'm sure that mine will be the same. It also has electric start and power tilt for a lot less than other manufacturers.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

The build looks good. I have Fish Taco back in the shop for some touch-ups and upgrades. I talked to Sam at the Wooden Boat Festival about the bottom oil canning and he suggested adding additional bilge keels; he has added them to his CF13. I had been thinking the same thing but he suggested wider than taller. I made the mid-bilge keels 30mm wide and 25mm tall and 1.88M long. I am painting them before attaching them to the hull but you can see where they will go in the photo; just forward of the trim tabs. I had not protected the keel and bilge keels so they were a little torn up; I am adding 1/8" x 1/2" brass half oval.

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

That's good to know Randy. I assume by "oil canning" you mean instability athwartship? Under what conditions was this most noticeable?

I have the half oval brass that I'm putting on the keels. I figured they would get pretty chewed up without. Did you have the trim tabs from the beginning? If not, did you notice a big difference after installing them?

Re: Building a Candlefish 13

Grant,

What I mean by "Oil Canning" is when the boat is on plane the bottom oscillates between frames 3 and 4.

I added the trim tabs after a few months of usage. I found that between 5 and 10 knots the bow wanted to rise up when I was the only one aboard. When I have someone else aboard or when on plane there is not an issue. The trim tabs have helped keep the bow down; if I was to go it again I would make them 18mm tall instead of 12mm per the plans. I don't know if the trim tabs being taller would help but I would like to try it.