Comment: Lucky’s is a known commodity. The original spot on Regent Street has been a Badger football Saturday staple ever since taking over from Luedtke’s Oakcrest back in the day, and definitely knows how to draw them in. When Sweet Sophie’s closed and reopened as Lucky’s Waunakee we weren’t the least bit surprised to see them doing big business as well. The owners have the clean-cut sports bar thing down to a science and really know how to work it. Apparently they have a strong desire to expand the brand even further by venturing into new, more supper clubby markets. They recently took over the defunct Anchors Away up in Okee and are in the process of revamping the entire operation into Lucky’s on the Lake.

Full disclosure: we showed up for lunch as construction was in progress (they are doing a massive expansion) and only the remodeled portion of the original Anchor’s building was operational, makeshift bar and all. We took one of the many open tables and waited for the lone waitress to come over, which took quite a while considering there were only two other parties in attendance. Eventually she swung by, got us some beverages, and took our orders. Lucky’s has a 3-piece cod for $11 and a $15 perch on special although the perch said it was a 2-piece which makes me think it wasn’t yellow perch (the true “lake perch”). We, of course, went for the cod since all the fish are beer battered and beer battered freshwater fish is not our thing.

In addition to all the standard Fish Fry accoutrements LotL gives patrons a soup or salad option too. We chose the chowder over the greens and it was thick and hearty brew. While there wasn’t much clam, the base was very zesty and set the stage perfectly for the fish. A basket of cellophane-wrapped breadsticks and supper club style cheese spread acted as props and wound up being a huge bonus (although they unfortunately didn’t come until after the fish was served which was disappointing).

Three bulky pieces of fish finally arrived bringing with them a thick beer batter. Moderate amounts of grease oozed from their substrate but the fish was pure, flaky, and white. In our opinion, the batter was average at best as it really didn’t have much flavor of its own. It necessitated tartar, but thankfully there was plenty of the sauce to spread.

Lucky’s tartar was a good mix, and helped the fish as much as it possibly could. It had a little bit of zip which gave the fish a boost and while it wasn’t the thickest it wasn’t the thinnest either.

Some thick, Julienne-cut fries sat in a lump under the fish and were under-fried but still tasty. Push. A nice half-slice of light marble rye added a necessary jolt to the meal and the creamy coleslaw finished things off with a… well, let’s just say it finished things off.

This is an interesting Fish Fry as the peripherals were all plentiful and well-executed, but the fish, fries, and tartar (the heart of the Fry) were all average at best. While we are curious to see what LotL will look like when all the remodeling is said and done, we have to assume fish won’t change. Overall, we barely recommend this Fish Fry and appreciate all the thought that went into it, but are awaiting a smoother execution and more alluring fish. We think they have it in them although their track record isn’t exactly glowing.