I expect there are a lot of new eyes on my website due to the amount of people now buying poultry.​To introduce myself, I am Janine Zschech, the sole owner/occupant of Adelaide Chicken Sitting Service.

I am a Poultry Pet Sitter and Poultry Educator

I do NOT sell poultryI am NOT a breederBut I can help you source what you are looking for.

I do NOT buy or take UNWANTED poultryI do NOT RESCUE poultryPlease search my blog for rehoming advice. This may change from time to time. The basics remain the same.

I do NOT kennel any birds or poultryI come to your backyard to care for the pets on your property for their health, safety and comfort.I practice strong biosecurity to keep birds healthy (not to bring in disease or pests).I pet sit within a half hour drive of Sheidow Park (SA 5158). Costs double outside of my zone.

I am NOT a vetI do give sound advice for free via email, text, comments on posts and by phone.I will direct you to a vet when I can identify that your poultry need more help than a home remedy.I have a farming background, so my advice is based in sound working knowledge.

I do NOT sell any productsI can help you locate the right product that you need and the general cost and directions on how to use the product.

I do NOT have any incubators for loanI can help you source incubators (ahead of time!) as well as setting up a brooder for hatched chicks.

I will NOT help you source poultry for slaughter, cock fighting or ritualsI support backyard chicken keepers who want to keep chickens for their company and fresh eggs.I also support those who need to help find a location for dispatch from their own flock.

I do NOT do any advertising on my websiteI do give product reviews here on my blog which will contain positive and negative feedback, as well as how to use a product or service.

The most commonly asked question in chicken keeping is "What should I NOT feed my hens?" AVOCADO tops the list, but many dispute this because their 'chickens haven't died yet.'In actual fact, it's more toxic that what most people expect.​

The pit and the peel are the most dangerous part of avocado, as it contains a toxin called Persin.

Persin is particularly bad for all birds and domesticated animals.It is far safer for poultry to avoid all parts of avocado as there is no guarantee that it is not within the flesh. Or when they peck the avocado flesh from the skin, that they may come into contact with Persin.

WHAT IS PERSIN?

Persin is a fungicidaltoxin present in the avocado. Persin is an oil-soluble compound structurally similar to a fatty acid, and it leaches into the body of the fruit from the seeds.​The relatively low concentrations of persin in the ripe pulp of the avocado fruit is generally considered harmless to humans. Negative effects in humans are primarily in allergic individuals. When persin is consumed by domestic animals through the leaves or bark of the avocado tree, or skins and seeds of the avocado fruit, it is toxic and dangerous.

PATHOLOGYConsumption of the leaves and bark of the avocado tree, or the skin and pit of the avocado fruit have been shown to have the following effects:

In birds, which are particularly sensitive to the avocado toxin, the symptoms are: increased heart rate, myocardial tissue damage, labored breathing, disordered plumage, unrest, weakness, and apathy. High doses cause acute respiratory syndrome (asphyxia), with death approximately 12 to 24 hours after consumption.

Lactating rabbits and mice: non-infectious mastitis and agalactia after consumption of leaves or bark.

Rabbits: cardial arrhythmia, submandibular edema and death after consumption of leaves.

Cows and goats: mastitis, decreased milk production after consumption of leaves or bark.

Horses: clinical effects occur mainly in mares, and includes noninfectious mastitis, as well as occasional gastritis and colic.

Cats, dogs: mild stomach upset may occur.

Hares, pigs, rats, sheep, ostriches, chickens, turkeys and fish: symptoms of intoxication similar those described above. The lethal dose is not known; the effect is different depending upon the animal species.

A build up of moisture in the chicken coop overnight can occur in both hot and cold weather, and it is a serious problem.

The coops that are most likely to have wet walls are metal sheds, rather than the wooden varieties.This is because wood is able to absorb more and insulate better than metal. Timber is also less air tight, in most cases.​

The main cause is lack of VENTILATION

The problem is AMMONIA rising from the urates in their droppings

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​Combine lack of ventilation and urates with the body heat of the hens roosting together, their respiratory system can become overwhelmed, which can lead to sudden death of otherwise healthy birds.

Hens that are overcome by ammonia are usually docile with possible nasal discharge. This can clear up once they are taken out of the coop for the day.

In order to get condensation this must be a heat source, which are the hens; just as you would see if you left a hot cup of coffee next to a window in your house.

Summer and Winter require changes in ventilation.In winter, there must still be air flow, although much more reduced than from summer.

NO VENTILATION OPTIONS IN THE COOP?The design fault of many of the mass produced small wooden coops from Asia lack ventilation.But alternations can be made the to door/window - remove the plastic window and install strong wire mesh (staple or nail on).

During winter this can be closed a little more with either a piece of taped cardboard or other material that works with the weather, if it is required.

Remember, any ventilation should NEVER be FULLY CLOSED.

Create ventilation where ever possible.

A window hole with aviary mesh attached to keep out predators is a great idea.​Alternatively, consider upgrading the type of coop that can give adequate ventilation throughout the year.

​METAL SHEDSMetal is more prone to damp wall and dripping from the inside roof.

There are TWO (2) main reasons why metal sheds are prone to condensation.

Lack of ventilation

Concrete floor is usually added after the shed is built

Add ventilation holesVentilation holes can be created by using a tin snips or power tool designed for metal cutting.Attach aviary wire mesh over the hole with a pot-rivet tool.

To create a sliding window to open and close for ventilation flow, use kitchen black-splash cut offs and two metal guides.This can be achieved with both metal and wooden coops.

Not all wooden coops are good to alter. Homemade wooden coops are easier to retro fit windows into.

Flooring​If the coop has a solid floor of either concrete or pavers, it will make a difference if the shed is placed UPON the flooring first, rather than adding the floor AFTER the shed has been built.This is because of the soil moisture that can also rise up within the shed.A pre-laid solid floor will reduce condensation.

Sheds with a dirt floor have direct access to moisture, which may give a false-positive to the wetness created by ammonia.

Dripping ONLY from inside the roof is the main clue that it is the flooring.​Wet walls are the indicator that it is the rising ammonia from the poultry droppings, which a ventilation air flow issue.

RULE #1Poultry sheds must have adequate ventilation. If there is any wetness on the walls and it the smell is strong in the morning (affecting the hens), the ventilation is poor and needs to be fixed urgently.

If you haven't experienced one of these poultry faux pas, then you really deserve a pat on the back. The rest of us, however, have gained our wisdom and knowledge through walking through fields of fire in poultry ownership.

​Here is my top 12 of mistakes many poultry owners make - and all can be fixed.

Didn't realise a bird was Fly Blown/Struck (maggots eating flesh)

Let a case of Bumblefoot go too far

No Crow/Cock Collar killed the rooster

Too many treats/wrong type of treats given to the flock

Allowing a special/spoilt chicken in the house

Bought new chickens (without quarantining) and infected the existing flock

As a poultry pet sitter, I always fear one of my clients' birds becoming sick, injured or broody with no spare coop for isolation from the rest of the flock. In most cases, there is nothing I could even use to improvise with!

But even when I am not there as your pet sitter, having a quarantine coop will serve you well. No-one ever regrets having one ready.

Here is a great guide on simple-to-make quarantine/broody coop ideas that could work in your backyard.

Quarantine coops are used for:

Sick and injured birds

Broody isolation units

Hatching fertilised eggs

Introducing new chickens to the yard before integrating with the existing flock - preventing spread of diseases/pests

Keep the quarantine coop as far away as possible from the main poultry coop to prevent spread of disease.

Quarantine unwell birds at the first sign of sickness/injury to prevent spread or attack.

Have one or two plastic tarpaulins ready.These are used for covering the quarantine coop if the sick bird has a contagious respiratory condition or able to keep the drafty winds/rain out.

It must be fully cleanable and accessible.

Food and water containers must be able fit within the structure.

OBEY the length of time that quarantine needs to be. Do not be tempted to release the birds too early.

If you have free ranging chickens that might wander over to the quarantine coop, add extra fencing to keep them away. The further away, the better.

​BROODY COOP ISOLATION FACTORSAs broody hens are only going through a normal hormonal phase, the purpose of a broody coop is to "break" her out of being broody and help her resume normal free ranging and egg laying again.

The broody coop is NOT for overnight use - only day time isolation - to keep her away from the nesting box.

Broody isolation must NOT have any nesting boxes.

Supply clean food and water.

Keep the this isolation coop in a cool shaded position.Grassy areas are highly recommended to bring down a broody's core temperature which aims "breaking" the broodiness.

Creating a coop for a broody that needs to be broken really ONLY needs fencing.An elaborate structure is usually unnecessary.

HATCHING WITH A BROODY FACTORSUse the quarantine coop for hatching fertilised eggs. Be aware, that if sickness does occur with any other birds in the flock that another quarantine coop will need to sourced.

Make best use of old trampoline frames.This will keep nesting hen and chicks safe from predators and other poultry that are likely to attack them.

The nesting area must be warm and secure. Mother hen must have access to food and water near to her while sitting.

Hatching coops need more run area than a standard quarantine.Explore the appropriateness of your yard before proceeding. Do you have room?

Chicks integrate into the main flock around 16-18 weeks of age.BE AWARE: This means up to 18 weeks of a quarantine coop in use.

PESTS AND CLEANING FACTORS

Clean the quarantine coop THOROUGHLY before and after use.

Food and water sources must be kept clean - washed out after use.

After use, sweep, scrub down all surfaces, discard ALL nesting materials into a garbage bag for the bin.

Spray with Virkon disinfectant throughout (after diseased birds have left quarantine).

Spray with Malaban Wash or Maldisan 50 if mites and lice have been on the birds.

Wear different boots into the quarantine coop to prevent transferring diseased matter out to the main flock.

Use the quarantine coop for all the flock when thoroughly cleaning out the main chicken coop for its annual clean.

Chickens can be infested with many types of worms, with Threadworm being the most common.But what about Heartworm?

As most dog, cat and ferret owners are aware, Heartworm needs to be treated monthly, like clockwork.

Heartworm is spread via mosquito bites accessing the blood stream. It is not a contagious disease, it must be spread by biting insect to enter the blood. So no place is safe for our four legged friends when mozzies come calling.

The larvae work their way through the blood stream to the heart and develop into adults. Its there that the adults can put a serious squeeze on the heart and arteries. Dogs with a case of heartworm disease start out with mild symptoms like coughing and exercise intolerance but later develop full blown cardiomyopathy (with swelling in the limbs, fluid buildup in the lungs, and reluctance to move as the dog becomes quickly exhausted)

But what about chickens?You can relax about this one, as chickens are not prone to Heartworm.

Just as dogs and cats need regular worming, so do all poultry.Schedule poultry worming for every 3 months.​This can be more frequently done if your birds are having frequent reoccurring infections of worms, which may indicate a soil based source, or introduction from the wild bird population (which will need to be controlled).​

Please DO NOT USE Advocate or other dog and cat wormers on chickens as the active ingredient in these products are fatal to birds.

Egg Yolk Peritonitis (‘EYP’) is a common cause of death in laying hens, and can be confused with a hen being Egg Bound. It is not a contagious disease but it can result in death if not seen to quickly.​

What is the difference?

​On a scale of probability, a hen is more likely to develop Egg Peritonitis rather than just suffer from being Egg Bound.​Egg binding on rare occasions can be the only problem. But I stress that it is, rare.​

SYMPTOMS

Strange walk – waddling upright like a duck (Posture is very noticeable)

Enlarged behind often with some feather loss – appears distinctly red and swollen

Tail lowered

Not laying

Difficult or reluctant to roam around her yard

Lack of interest in foraging

Frequently sitting

Lacking usual interest in food

​

Let’s start with a hen suspected of being Egg Bound

Diet is the catalyst that will cause a hen to become Egg Bound. Usually due to a diet lacking in calcium, such as shellgrit. Or an absorption issue which hinders the uptake of calcium. If only kitchen scraps are the majority of the diet, this is most likely the cause.

The diet must be balanced with grains, protein, greens and calcium grit. Ensure that the water supply is always clean.​Egg shell quality diminishes with age, so often it is the older hens that become Egg Bound. The more fragile the egg shells become, the harder it is for the hen to expel the egg successfully.​

To home treat an egg bound hen:

Sit her in luke-warm water with a little Epsom salts in the sink or large bucket to help her relax for 5 minutes or so.

On removing her from the water, towel dry gently and use a hair dryer to dry her off.

In some cases, this may be enough for some hens to lay her egg.

Follow up with a visit to your vet the next day. MUST

Provide shellgrit and a liquid calcium supplement to their water supply to ensure all of your poultry have an adequate level of calcium as prevention

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It is IMPORTANT to take the hen to the vet as the condition may require further treatment.A hen that is Egg Bound is merely a SYMPTOM of something more that should be investigated.​

Egg Peritonitis

If the abdomen rear of the hen is red and swollen, this is a clear sign that infection (EYP) has set in and she requires veterinary care immediately.

Peritonitis follows reverse movement of albumen and Escherichia coli bacteria from the oviduct into the abdomen. If the incidence is high, culture should be done to differentiate between Pasteurella (fowl cholera) or Salmonella infection. Antibiotic treatment of peritonitis caused by E coli infections is usually ineffective. Management of body weight and uniformity, reproductive development (ovary follicle growth and maturation), and drinking water sanitation are the best preventive strategies.

When hens have too many large ovarian follicles, a problem described as erratic oviposition and defective egg syndrome (EODES) is seen in broiler breeders. This condition is accompanied by a high incidence of double-yolked eggs, prolapses of the oviduct, internal ovulation, and/or internal laying that often results in egg peritonitis and mortality. EODES is prevented by avoiding light stimulation of underweight pullets too early and by following guidelines for body weight and uniformity, and lighting recommendations for each breeder strain. Overweight hens may also have a higher incidence of erratic ovulations and mortality associated with egg peritonitis.​MSD Manual - The Veterinary Manual​

​How will the vet diagnose Egg Peritonitis?

Your vet will carry out an x-ray to see if there is any egg matter, as first course.

This may be followed with fluid being drawn from the coelom for samples.

If she is egg bound, the vet is then likely to insert fingers into the hen’s rear to extract the egg. A course of antibiotics might be offered.​EYP is diagnosed by your vet during a post mortem.​

​Are some chickens more prone to this disease?

Prolific egg layers such as ISA Browns, Hy-Lines, Leghorns, etc. are the most susceptible, but not exclusively to.

Hens who are frequent double-yolk layers are also considered at higher risk.

Over weight hens are also in the high risk category.​

​Can Egg Yolk Peritonitis be treated?

Treatment for hens is often too late. Early diagnosis is essential. Mortality is high, unfortunately.

Often a visit to the vet can result in the choice of a peaceful passing away instead of suffering.

It is very hard for a bird to show that they are in pain. They are more likely to hide their illness or injury and display more sleepiness and lack of interest in their day to day activities.​Always take time with your poultry each day to get to know what is normal or abnormal so that you can pick up on any early stages of ill health.​

Is vaccinating your day old chicks for Marek's going to be worthwhile any more with the change of vaccine available in Australia as of 2017?

The Marek's vaccine for chicks has always been delivered in a freeze-dried format that is then mixed with a carrier for injection into day old chicks. It was fridge stable and was easy enough to transport by order.

Zoetis has now officially ceased to make the freeze-dried vaccine for Australia indefinitely.

Bioproperties makes an alternative Merek's vaccine for the Australia market.

The alternative vaccine costs less than the original freeze-dried variety, however, the cost is considerably more when chilling is calculated into the transportation and storage until use!

​This will NOT make it easy for the small backyard breeder with a dozen or two chicks when the cost of dry ice or liquid nitrogen deliveries are added to the cost.

The cells holding the virus in the vaccine need to be storage very carefully in one of two ways:

Dry Ice (for short term transportation - defrosting state)

Liquid Nitrogen (for long term storage until required for another hatch - frozen state)

The vaccine will still need to be correctly prepared with the diluent (carrier) - following the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

The benefit to this alternative vaccine is that it will be stable for several hours once mixed unlike the freeze-dried vaccine that could only last for up to an hour.

Once the vaccine has been thawed it cannot be refrozen as it will destroy the cells that hold the virus. So this brings in questions about breaking up the vaccine into smaller batches for later use.

​CHALLENGES

The vaccine order needs to be placed on dry ice and stored safely until ready for use.

The vaccine order must be transported on dry ice or in dry liquid nitrogen - requiring special care by the transportation company which may add to the cost. (Class 9 hazardous goods label)

Those who are use to using the freeze-dried vaccine may need to rethink how to access the vaccine and if its worthwhile continuing.

Have a supply of dry ice or liquid nitrogen storage for the vaccine. Where will this be located on your property?Liquid nitrogen needs to be topped up regularly - so the ongoing costs of storage increases.

NOTE: Never place dried ice into a deep freeze with the vaccine. Dry ice vapour is also detrimental to most refrigerators.

A massive contamination scare has swept across multiple EU countries and now into parts of Asia, requiring many eggs to be dumped. (August 2017)

The countries affected include 15 EU countries, Britain, Switzerland and as far as Hong Kong it has been reported. Dozens of farms have been closed and millions of eggs pulled from supermarket shelves.

The epicenter of this crisis includes Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands.

Australia is NOT included in this egg contamination due to more stringent regulations.

CAUSE OF THE CONTAMINATIONThe eggs have been contaminated by Fipronil which can harm human health.

Fipronil is a broadspectrum insecticide and is commonly used to control fleas, lice and ticks on animals. The EU has banned Fipronil from the use in the food industry.

In Australia, Fipronil is generally used against termites rather than on poultry. It may also be used to kill ants, cockroaches and beetles.

Fipronil is toxic to fish, aquatic invertebrates and bees.​To protect the bees, Fipronil is banned from being used on corn.

HOW DID IT GET INTO THE EGGS?Fipronil can be absorbed into the skin or taken orally. In the case of these chickens, it would have been adsorbed through the skin into the blood stream. Traces can be found in the eggs.

HOW IS IT DANGEROUS FOR HUMANS?The World Health Organisation says if these contaminated eggs are eaten in large quantities it can harm people's kidneys, liver and thyroid glands.

An adult weighing 65kg would need to eat more than seven (7) eggs a day. A child of 35kg could not exceed 1.7 eggs.

WARNING FOR AUSTRALIANSCan we still be at risk from ingesting Fiprinol in our own home laid eggs?The answer is YES.

FRONTLINE products have the active ingredient is Fipronil.

Please do not use any Frontline products on egg/meat producers.All Frontline products work best for other domestic house pets such as dogs and cats.For use on rabbits and guinea pigs, please consult your Vet for the appropriate active ingredient.Do not assume one product is safe across all animal and bird species.

Nu-Stock is a topical cream for fast pain relief for many animals, which applied for skin, hair and fur conditions.

It does not contain any steroids, so can be used over a good length of time for treatment.

This product is used to treat bruises, deep wounds, skin disorders, cuts, swellings, soreness, hair loss, tender hooves and non-specific dermatose. It also claims to help healthy hair regrow and wounds to heal over well.

​There is one other claim on the product - "Kills mites on contact"It's this line that many poultry owners want to know if they can use it on their birds.

​There is nothing on the product to indicate that it would be dangerous to poultry, however, the aim of this product is not for birds.

Nu-Stock makes no claims that this is appropriate for poultry.

So let's look at this ingredients for better clarification:

Ingredients: Sulfur 73%, Pine oil 2%, Mineral oil 25%

If you intend to use this on one or more of your poultry as mite treatment, consider the fact that mites are hard to track down in amongst feathers, unlike fur.

Fur can be parted and skin patches with hair loss often indicate where the mites have burrowed.

THE ALTERNATIVEThe practicality of using the product may be the biggest hindrance, since if ONE bird has mites, so may many of the others in the flock. In that case, dunking them in a luke warm bath with Maldisan 50 may be more effective. Please do not wash their heads in this solution.

Whether you are buying, showing or have sick or injured poultry, every poultry keeper MUST have a quarantine area.

Quarantine means to relocate poultry away from other the other birds so as not to expose them to any possible contamination or the opportunity for attack.

During quarantine isolation the bird/s are treated for external parasites, internal worms, or any illness or injury. This is especially so for any new hens coming into your yard.

At the same time, any established birds in the yard need to also be up to date with their pest dusting and worming treatments so as not to also contaminate the birds who will eventually come out of isolation and join the flock.

WHY QUARANTINE?Even though a bird may look healthy, they can be carriers of disease which may lie dormant in them but still be communicable, or it may take a couple of days before signs of illness are noticeable. This is why quarantining is so imperative and should NEVER BE SKIPPED.

Injured poultry need some where to recover and avoid being pecked to death by the rest of the flock. And mother hen needs to protect her young and keep their chick food safe from being consumed by the adult hens.

HOW LONG IS QUARANTINE?3-4 weeks is the standard time.Less time may be given only to those recovering from injury or operation.​

​WHAT MAKES A GOOD QUARANTINE?

As far away as possible from the main chicken coop

Solid shed/coop that is fit for purpose and clean

Draft free and dry

Double fencing, where possible– the second outside fence is as wide as a footpath around the quarantine coop.

Able to enclose with plastic tarpaulins if required

Able to be easily accessed by adults

Fresh food and water

Some roaming area for dust bathing even if its grass clipping, fine shellgrit or sand provided in large container. Keeping up their grooming will make a big difference to their feeling of wellbeing to aid recovery.

Options to perch or floor sit out of a draft. Perching is a healthy sign.

​

YOUR PERSONAL CLEANLINESSYour cleanliness is just as important to keep your chickens healthy so that disease is not spread.​Keeping the droppings from other birds out of their yard is a priority.

4 simple rules for BIOSECURITY:

Clean footwear, set aside especially for the quarantine coop.

Stand boots in a medicated footbath (Virkon S, etc.) if your poultry have a contagious illness.

If you need to handle the birds:- Wear an apron, overalls or a different set of clothes- Wear disposable gloves

Wash your hands and use an alcohol rub every time you enter/exit quarantine.

​

INTEGRATING THE HENS – Week 3 or 4Once a hen has been in quarantine for a period of time, the pecking order can change or will be rearranged once new hens are added to the existing flock. This is all normal behaviour.

If quarantining a bird because of their persistent bad behaviour toward other birds, this period of time will usually correct the hen pecking order balance once she is released.

When transitioning NEW hens into an existing flock, week 3 is VERY IMPORTANT.

Remove ONE of the fence lines and start to feed both the new and old hens at this fence line, if this is possible in your yard set-up.

If the quarantine coop is too far away or not accessible for your other hens, then move the new birds into a fenced area NEXT to the older hens during the day. Feed them at the fence line. Fencing could be temporary pet fencing or chicken wire with stakes.

Feeding with just one fence line is socialisation. This will minimise pecking order issues.Do this for all hens in quarantine who are healthy enough to be introduced to the main flock, in week 3.ONLY proceed with this step if you are certain that their illness has been resolved.

CLEANING THE QUARANTINE AFTER USEThe quarantine coop must be thoroughly cleaned after use to prevent any future outbreaks.

Bag up all manure droppings for the general rubbish bin

Bag up all bedding and nesting materials for the bin

Sweep out

Squirt down solid flooring with a hose (where possible)

Scrub down all surfaces with water soapy water, brush and clean rag

Spray with a poultry disinfectant spray such as Virkon S, if contagious birds were resident

Clean out ALL food and water containers with a warm soapy wash

Allow stand open to air dry

For cleaning out a PET TENT, clean out thoroughly with banister broom, dust pan and vacuum cleaner. Wash the tent sides with warm soapy water. Use an antibacterial spray or Virkon S and allow to air dry outside (away from other hens).

Calcium is an essential mineral for all poultry in all stages of their life as part of a balanced diet. If your egg shells haven't improved through providing your hens with shellgrit, yoghurt and apple cider vinegar (ACV), then a liquid calcium supplement may be able to assist. Suitable for all poultry and birds.​

​Vetsense Avi-CALCIUM contains added Vitamin D3 which helps to aid the absorption of calcium. This supplement is suitable for administering daily to support eggshell strength as well as normal bone development in young hens.

Poultry need to take up at least 4g of calcium per day for optimum health.

Even if the poultry are not laying yet, calcium still needs to be part of their diet.

Chicks should have assess to fine shellgrit while in the brooder or with mother hen. Shellgrit is the best form of calcium for poultry as it also acts as grit for their crop to aid digestion.

A liquid supplement is best used when the results of shellgrit are not enough.

SYMPTOMS OF CALCIUM DEFICIENCY IN POULTRY:

Eggs that have extremely brittle shells or soft-shelled

Hens may become Egg Bound

Lameness

Weakness

Skeletal deformity

Crippling

Osteoporosis - calcium is then drawn from their bones to form eggshells

Poor growth and development in young birds (diagnosed as rickets)

HOW TO USEAvi-CALCIUM is a complete calcium supplement liquid that is added to the drinking water.

DOSAGE: 4ml to 500ml of clean drinking water per 2kg body-weight

EXAMPLE OF CALCULATION:Isa Brown hens of 2kg = 4ml of product to 500ml = 8ml per Litre of waterAustralorp hens of 3kg = 6ml of product to 500ml = 12ml per Litre of water

Change the water daily - do not let the mix sit for more than 24 hours.

Do not exceed the recommended dose.Excessive amounts of calcium in a bird's diet can be just as detrimental as too little.

​Do not add anything else to their drinking water such as antibiotics or apple cider vinegar while using this supplement in their water source. If antibiotics are needing to be used, simply remove all other supplements for that period.

PERIOD OF USE: Use daily or as needed until health or eggshell quality improves

Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that is a common illness in chicks that can lead to death if not treated.

Pronounced at ‘cok-sid-E-ow-sis’, also known as Cocci (‘cok-see’).

Coccidiosis comes from protozoa that occurs naturally within the chick’s intestines, multiplies too quickly. Protozoa are basically harmless little creatures in the gut, but if the balance is thrown out, some can cause serious illness. Those protozoa that cause the harm are called Coccidia.

This condition is not transferrable to humans from birds.

HOW IS IT TRANSMITTED?Ground fed birds are likely to be exposed to coccidia throughout their lives. If their immune system is well supported, diet balanced, kept in a clean environment and the hens are not over-crowded, the incidents of coccidiosis are greatly reduced. Stress in the flock, especially through overcrowding is a strong contributor.

In the coccidia life cycle, for each egg that hatches in a bird’s intestines there are a million released through their droppings. Chicks are likely to pick up on coccidian eggs in droppings in their food, water and bedding. This is why food and water must be changed daily. A warm soapy wash of their feeders and drinkers is essential. Litter in the brooder or coop must be regularly changed.

Poultry can build up a natural immunity throughout their life; that is why Coccidiosis is the most common in the young pullets and chicks.

COCCIDIOSIS SYMPTOMSBlood in the droppings is the most obvious sign of Coccidiosis.

In older hens, the bloody stool is most likely to occur in the morning droppings. So checking the coop’s overnight droppings when letting the hens out in the morning is a good habit to get into.​

​AGE MOST SUSCPETIBLENewly hatched chicks are the LEAST likely to have Coccidiosis as the life cycle of coccidia is at least 5 days after it is contracted.

Usually the first signs around be at 10 days or older.

The most common time for Coccidiosis in chicks is around 3 to 6 weeks of age,​with the worst cases occurring at 4 to 5 weeks of age.

If a condition arises within the first 5 days of life, it is most likely to be caused by a yolk sac infection which enters through a wet navel at hatching time. Or bacteria may have developed in the egg during incubation (transmitted through dirty hands or unclean incubator). This can be treated with antibiotics if caught quickly enough.

HOW TO TREAT COCCIDIOSISMedicated chick crumble (with coccidiostats) will not be enough to cure an infected chick. Usually, the chick will have a loss of appetite by this stage but will still keep drinking.

This disease is serious and needs to be treated with an anticoccidial in the drinking water.

​This medication is appropriate for both chicks and adult laying hens.All of the flock should be treated together at the same time with the medicated water to prevent further outbreak.There is an expiry date on these medications, please ensure they are within the date of use.​

There is no one perfect first aid box for poultry because products can differ from state/territory or from country to country. And there can be more than one way to treat a wound. No two Chicken First Aid boxes will be the same.

This question comes up all the time amongst my clients, and this is a great subject to cover.

Here is my handy guide to helping you get started.

Grow your kit slowly for your needsMost poultry owners will create their first aid kit over time according to the needs that arise in their flock.

For example, in my location I do not have any problems with stick fleas, but other areas of the city of state may have high incidences of that pest. So the product that treats stick fleas would not be in my kit.

You might not want to inject your birds,preferring your local vet to handle that job, instead. So you will not need needles and a sharps disposal box.

It really is a pick 'n' match creation.

Expiry DatesKeep an eye on the expiry dates of products in your kit. So do not be tempted to buy products that are on sale because of their used by date, such as Probiotics or Triple C. These need to be checked regularly to keep them fresh for use on the flock.

​Check with your vet if you have an medications issued to you from their clinic as to their shelf life, if uncertain.

So what is in my personal first aid kit for chickens?Here are a few ideas to help you get started. Remember, these are not limited but a general guide.​

Spines are an amazing part of the body whether human, animal, fish, bird or reptile. We know what a thrown-out back can do to us, but what about in our four-legged pets?

You may agree or disagree with chiropractics. This article is designed to inform pet owners about this service and to make up your own mind if this practice is suitable for you and your pets.

In Australia it is a growing industry just like it is in the USA, with many pet owners noticing the benefits.

The Australian Veterinary Chiropractic Association - recently renamed as Animal Biochemical Professionals Australia - is based in Sale, Victoria, supporting those in the field of animal chiropractic science and osteopathy.

About the Australian Veterinary Chiropractic Association - now Animal Biochemical Professionals Australia

​Learn More About This Practice

PETMD (US) website give a very good explaination of the benefits and practices in animal chiropractics. CLICK HERE

Author

You can take the girl out of the country but you can't take the country out of the girl. As an ex-Barossa gal now living in suburban Adelaide, South Australia, Janine Zschech is not only a serious chicken lady but a genuine advocate for self-sufficiency and education of children to the knowledge of gardening and animal rearing. Skills for life!