/BQG/ - Bike Question General

I just tried to convert my OTS beater -whose rear derailleur recently broke- into a single gear, and the result has been a fucking disaster. The moment you move the pedals backwards the chain begins slipping out of the chaining. Any suggestions on how to proceed from here?

>>1153473Sounds like your chainline isn't straight. As it's presumably has a freewheel and not a freewheel you can't space out the rear cog (I'm going to assume you're reusing the old freewheel and just keep the chain on the desired cog) so you'll instead have to move the chainring over with some chainring bolt spacers.

Alternatively if the chainline isn't too far out of line a chain guide may keep the chain in place. You could go with either one that mounts where the derailer did (will be noisier) or one that mounts at the bottom bracket (may not be an option on such an old bike).

can someone help me pick out a good bike? I don't know anything about them>will use it for errands, maybe 5~ mile trips or a little more>will ride mostly on roads but occasionally over thorny/bumpy dirt paths >Idc about speed too much>as cheap as possible while still getting a decent quality bike. Idk what the regular price ranges are so I'll let you interpret that

i got one of those blue chain cleaner things on Wish app. Now what do? Park Tool video and wannabe pro cyclist videos show stupid "proprietary bike chain degreaser solvants" used. Fuck that nonsense, what is wrong with using dish soap and hot water and then letting it dry and then lube 'er up?

>>1153507Post your craigslist here we'll lookOur standard rec is a 90s rigid mtb with slicks. This is a meme, but its actually pretty solid for what you want to do. It won't be all that fast, but will handle shitty roads and light singletrack no problem, can even handle pretty technical shit if you practice your handling enough. They're pretty solid and easy to work on, you can find them for around $150 in good shape usually. Stick a rack and fenders on one and they make a good commuter/grocery getter

>>1153520basically >>1153521In the late 80s and the 90s a bunch of mtbs were sold that had fully rigid frames, a pretty comfy riding position, very sturdy wheels and hubs, and usually a 7 speed drivetrain with a triple crank. Newer mtbs are either hardtail, meaning front suspension, no rear, which is nice for keeping the front end under control offroad but adds weight complexity and cost, or fs which is great for dh type riding but shit for everything else. Because of the suspension and very slack geo, newer mtbs suck on road but are great offroad, while 90s rigids are decent all around

Are brifters much nicer to have than downtube friction shifters? Can't decide whether to just keep my current 8 speed setup on life support with a new chain and cassette, or get a new groupset altogether (thinking about Tiagra 4700).

Is there any reason I couldn't run a 73mm bb in a 68mm bb shell if I throw a 2.5mm spacer on each side? I am not asking if I SHOULD do it, only if I could if, say, I was touring in some remote area and there's only one bike shop around and the only bb they have in stock is 73mm. (I know spindle/crank interface matters too, not concerned about that)

I assume there is no feasible way of doing the reverse? (68mm bb in 73mm shell)

Asking because I want a shtf-ready bike that can take replacement parts in all of the most common standards, and ideally I want it to be able to accept both 68mm and 73mm bbs (if it will require some nigger rigging that's fine, just tell me what type of nigger rigging will be required)

>>1154049Installing wheels is pretty simple, just remember that your end goal is to have the plane of the hub flanges align with the frame and/or fork (with reference to the forward motion vector) and that will allow you to avoid most problems, assuming that your wheels are ellipses with low eccentricity.

>>1154049the obvious ones would be >make sure the new hub is the same width or still compatible with your frame stay width (steel frames can be "cold set" for a little extra width, though. It basically means stretched-out, but only a little bit)>that the new hub will either accept your current cassette/freewheel OR if it's different then keep the same number of cogs UNLESS you either run friction shifting or want to switch your shifter, too.>make sure you reset your RD limits if the number of cogs changes. >changing the number of cogs may require a chain with a different width.>if you have a short-cage RD your new big cog can't be over ~28 or 30 teeth or else you will need to get a long-cage derailleur, too. This is assuming road, I don't think there is such thing as short-cage MTB but anyway check what you got.

>>1154049to state the really obvious, the wheel size needs to be the same standard (i.e. 700c, 26", etc) or else you need to check the compatibility of a different standard with your frame clearance, rim brake reach, tire clearance etc.

How tight of a fit should bike shorts have? I got a pair recently and after a couple long rides with them I noticed that the compression was making my quads burn more than usual (i.e. more than they do when I ride in loose running shorts or tights). My average speed went down as well. I have a lot of visible veins (arteries?) on the surface of my legs as well, though, so could it just be that I'm not predisposed to wearing these things?

>First road bike>Neck sore after very short rides because I crank it>Try to keep my neck more neutral and leveled with my spine on the next ride>Can barely scan ahead enough for glass, potholes, and people so I have to go back to cranking my neck

What am I doing wrong? I’m trying to relax my shoulders and hands as much as possible meanwhile. Is this something I’ll just have to get used to or is it a bike fit issue? My stem is already angled up with a few spacers and my saddle is nearly level with it as well.

>>1154149You probably just need to work on your flexibility. When I first started riding for fitness and not just transportation I had a lot of aches and pains, stretching and working on my core strength helped a lot.

>>1154149It could be fit. It could be that you're just not used to riding a bike with road geometry and drops. It could be your grip; supposedly bad hand position or bad grips can make your whole body sore.What hand position do you usually use? (tops/hoods/drops) If you are in the hoods a lot, you could change the position of the hoods, that may or may not help.If you ride in the drops a lot, spend more time on the hoods and tops. Reserve the drops for sprinting and climbing until your body adjusts.

My dick is raw after this morning's ride. I've been riding a lot less than I used to (4 times a month, I've been lazy), and around 40 minutes in I'll become aware of discomfort of my dick and try to move it around. I'm not usually aware of where my dick is at, but It was 50F out and I thought it was harder to feel than usual (maybe because of the windchill?), except for the head. I think the friction of moving around in my shorts did it. When I got home and put on a pair of tighter jeans it hurt to walk, the head was very sensitive. Is there a standard place or direction I'm supposed to push my junk towards while riding? Is deep between my legs good? I was worried about that because my balls might rub against my thighs too much. Could this have happened because I gained weight from riding less somehow?

>>1154172>I'm finally tired of my stock Kenda tires, I've had 2 flats within this week. What are my options? Spend the money on Schwalbe Marathons? Do tire liners work even with high pressure road tires?

SUPREMES. NOT REGULAR MARATHONS.For the love of God no memeskinsTire liners are trashP much any tire will be better than a stock KendaWithout knowing your bike and rims I can't tell you what size to getGet 60 tpi and consider them mid level120 is better. Pro

Do any of you use road bikes with stem lengths that are less than 100mm? Starting to think my reach is too much, but I also don't know how exaggerated people are when they say the handling gets a lot twitchier

>>1154214It's not twitchy at all. Drop bar bikes tend to steer like boats because not only do they have long stems they also have a lot of added reach from the handle bars, on the hoods or drops your hands are probably at least 100mm further forward than they would be on flat bars. So, for drop bars to feel twitchy even with a 30mm stem you'd need to find flat bars with a ~130mm stem to also be twitchy, and that's not gonna happen unless you've got a stupidly steep head angle.

>>1154214I've used stems as long as 120mm and short as 60mm and havent had any problems with twitchyness. it's noticeably easier to get things turning but its not even remotely close to being any sort of problem

>>1154214>Do any of you use road bikes with stem lengths that are less than 100mm? Starting to think my reach is too much, but I also don't know how exaggerated people are when they say the handling gets a lot twitchier

I've ridden the same bike with 130mm, 60mm, 100, 90, etc. up down riser slammed

If you are tall and the numbers say your bike is the right size, try dropping the stem lower AND keeping it long. And, actually, before you do that, slam your saddle back as far as it will go.

Somehow at 6'5 on a 58cm top tube bike I was under the impression that I was "too stretched out" when it was exactly the opposite problem. I found that slamming the saddle back and lowering my stem (which extends the reach even more) is what I needed.

What I really need is a bike with a 64cm top tube but who is gonna pay for that shit?

Ordered a new crankset today because I fucked the pedal threading on my current one by not using grease like a retard

Want to make sure I do shit right this time. Do I really need a torque wrench? I just have a simple hybrid bike, a Jamis Coda, so I don't think anything's going to have to be too particular, but still, don't want to make another $30 mistake.

At that price range, you have many new and used options. Seriously, just go with something that fits you right, has rack mounts, and time-tested components. Also, save some money for bike accessories like racks, locks, lights etc.

>>1154295In general, you should use a torque wrench whenever carbon is involved. If carbon is not involved, just don't be an idiot. Chances are high that it wasn't just lack of grease but also that you cross threaded.

>>1154312CAAD as other anon recommended is a good option. For performance road bikes that would be reasonable to race on, buying new you'd be looking at around 2k USD and up, but if you just want to ride for fun, 700-1000 USD is reasonable to get a pretty solid bike.

the chain on my bike has reached the end of its life, its at .75 on the chain wear tool and close to 1.0 (the 1.0 side can almost fit through). i have never changed a chain and I purchased a chain that has the master link tool but my current chain i guess requires a chain tool or something to disconnect it?

Just finished a long ride and it somehow fucked up my left hand. I've basically lost all my strength in the index finger and thumb of my left hand--I can't even use them to type anymore. Did I pinch a nerve or something? For most of the ride I was putting all my weight on my palms. Has anyone heard of this sort of thing happening befoe?

I've already got a decaleur built into a small rack from VeloOrange but it's not really big or stable enough for my large front bag. I'm thinking of getting rid of my mini rack, getting a big porteur/"pizza" rack and a new, higher decaleur on the handlebars. Thing is, I can't find them anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can buy a handlebar/stem mounted decaleur? Preferably in Europe, but anything would be good.

>>1154584The two yellow things are tire levers. The thing at the top is a mount for a light or something else small, the clamp mechanism is designed to fit on a variety of seatpost sizes (or handlebars) and the item in the lower right looks like a clip of some kind, also designed to work with a specific accessory. that you must not have...

>>1153473i asked the question in /sp/ and was redirected to here, so: why do i seldom hear anything about tubless in the context of bmx? i mean if you're riding street you never know when you might find a small piece of glass or a nail and get a small puncture. i saw a guy ride a tubless trials bike -trying- to get a flat, to the point that he smashed a bottle, and bunny hopped in to the glass several times, and didnt manage to get a flat. i also saw a guy ride over a board with nails in it something like 30 times and still hold air with tubless, and with either of those i'm sure a bmx bike with a tube would be getting pushed home instead of ridden

>>1154606The main advantage of tubeless is that it allows for tires to be run at lower pressures, and the resistance to punctures is a side benefit. BMX riders don't see much benefit from either of those, because they have to keep their tire pressure relatively high, and punctures are rarely an issue for riders who mostly stick to prepared tracks or parks.

>>1154612yeah, i'll concede that people who race BMX have no need, but i'm really talking about the street riders, the ones who will be hitting sharp 90 degree angles with a single tire, or finding glass/nails

>>1154626okay fair point, i once saw a group of 4 end their riding session because one of them got a flat and none of them had any tools, much less a pump and spare tube. like, legit, not a single one had a single tool>>1154629really? i feel like if the pressure was enough to blow them off it would do it tubes or tubless. i mean the bead is either steel cable or kevlar. burping the tires on hard landings and running out of pressure is a possibility though

>>1154640I'm not 100% sure on the mechanism, but it just doesn't happen on standard clinchers unless you greatly exceed the tyre's guidelines. Tubeless doesn't have the extra support from the inner tube, or something, which is why it can blow off.

>>1154584the little arrow shapes in the tire levers are so you can put the opposite end under the tire bead, lever it down, and hook it through a spoke so it doesn't come loose while you slide the other lever along the tire bead in one hand while your other hand is now free to grip the wheel firmly.

pretty sure that butterfly shaped orange stuff acts like a bungie so you should be able to hook it onto a variety of things, which is neat.

>>1154844going from MTB to road is a little weird at first. The speed is really nice. You can actually bunny-hop them a little--up a standard curb at least. You can ride offroad a little if you're careful and slow, it's not "fun" but if you have a shortcut you can do it. just remember you can't ride your bike down flights of stairs anymore. Had to stop myself a few times at first, would have fucked my rims and pinch-flatted no doubt.

>>1154844You'll love it. The design of road bikes hasn't changed much in almost a century and for good reason. Once you get used to them, they feel a lot more grounded and safer than mtbs on the road, and of course faster. Check Sheldon Brown's site before adjusting and upgrading it. It is a bit messy but it covers a lot:https://www.sheldonbrown.comor directly https://www.sheldonbrown.com/beginners.html

>>1154853>just remember you can't ride your bike down flights of stairs anymore. Had to stop myself a few times at first, would have fucked my rims and pinch-flatted no doubt.Maybe with 25mm or 27mm flaccid meme tires. 23mm's at 8bars can stand that and more.

>>1154853>Can't ride down flights of stairs anymoreShame, I loved doing that, was the best bit of my commute and cut like fives minutes off my travel time being able to bomb down the stairs from main street to the lower sections of the city

>>1154854This thing doesn't feel grounded at all at the minute, and I can't say I like how bent over I am when riding, I'm not a complete beginner to cycling as a whole but I've never owned a bike that cost more than 40 quid, I found my old bike in a shed on a farm and stuck some city tires on it, do I have to actually do much to turn this thing into a commuter? I've got some flat pedals on the way, it came with clipless pedals which freaked me the fuck out when I tried them

>>1154857Try it some time if you've got a beater. I've even done rocky trails, never got pinch flats there. The only times I've gotten them it was for riding with under-inflated tires.>>1154858You'll get used to it. Go practice away from traffic, into an empty parking lot or a sports field. Ride until you're comfortable, specially with the brakes. The same applies to clipless. The bike itself looks ready to ride. All you need is lights, a good lock, mudguards if it's rainy, and a backpack to carry your stuff.

>>1154888A few stairs is nothing compared to the cobbled classics, and they're using pretty low-pressure tires to not destroy their asses. Granted, many ruin their wheels there, but they still need to make it to the end of the race (last year's Paris-Roubaix was 257kms with 55km of pavé). Road bikes are tougher than people give them credit for.

>>1154959Pretty much anything waterproof does that. The point is you only wear the waterproof socks when it's wet and have other socks for different times. Like heavy wool for cold and sport socks for warm weather. You can then combine them for whatever conditions arise, just like how you layer clothing. It's light weight and versatile. Unfortunately I was told by my boss I had to wear real shoes. There is no hope for some people.

>>1154417No, I double-checked, right pedal was up/right slant. It was lack of grease and forcing that shit in that stripped shit. Original pedals broke, put on some shitty $10 ones in the meantime, didn't grease those either, then I put on new ones.

Needless to say I'm double-checking shit from now on instead of just winging it like a retard.

Hey /bqg/ I want to do some maintenance on my bottom bracket area. My left crank arm keeps coming loose every.. few weeks to a month. It's not that big of a deal I just tighten it up but it is an awkward noise to have to deal with 30 minutes from home.

The problem is.. now I want the crank arm off I can't get the fucker to come loose. How do I do that?

>>1155123Still didn't say what's so shitty about the Origin8s. Ergon looks hard to find, but I could check with my bike shop to see if they can order it when I go to pick up my new crankset, I guess. By the "bend" ones do you mean the GP5?

>>1155130No sorry, I mean the little wiggle shape you see in the origin8 bars. That's called Ann ergo bend. Not to be confused with the ergon brand... Unrelated.... Both names coming from the root word ergonomic

>>1155138I never actually owned them, but I've seen them praised by everyone from tourers, commuters, and MTB guys. There is a large and small size. From what I hear, the large size is very large, and a lot of guys choose small. So, your probably good. Besides large vs small the rest it's just your preference for the horns. I think the curvy one to the far right is overkill, I'd get the second longest or one from the middle.

The grip itself will be a huge comfort gain if you install it at the correct angle. Lots of cool guys only get the grip without horns

>>1155141>>1155288Alright, thanks. I tracked down a pair of GP4s on some shop's ebay page. The grip itself looks pretty similar to what I already have on there, shape-wise, but I assume this one has better materials.

>>1155284>aluminium frame and fork with flat handlebars and a cheap saddle >for touring and riding on gravelPlus it weights almost 15kg and has shitty mudguards. Its only redeeming are the brakes and babby gears. It's a bike and I'm sure the wheels spin, but it doesn't look like a good purchase, specially for that job.

I have a boost mtb fork and a non boost front wheel. Would it be safe to use a 3d printer to print a pair of caps to make it possiple to fit the wheel to the fork? I have a free acces to a 3d printer but I'm no engineer so I have no idea about the strength of the plastic. The hub end caps tend to be plastic so I'd assume that it couldn't be too deadly.

>>1155131I got a response from DT Swiss, they made a recommendation I'm taking, and it's not that rim. Thanks for replying anyway.>>1155133Fuck Mavic. :-) They've pissed me off a couple times now and I'd just as soon avoid their products.

I was going throw a storage bin of spare parts and I found a bunch of shimano cx70 parts I bought a couple of years ago on a whim. Front and rear derailleurs, cx70 cantilever brakes, and a cogset. I've got 105 10 speed shifters. I was thinking about building up a nice cross bike with it. Only problem is I never got around to getting the CX70 crankset to match and I can't seem to find one that isn't pretty roughly used.

Can anyone recommend a good 10 speed ultegra or 105 46/36t crankset or am I better off buying the chain rings I want for it?

>>1155416>46/36tfuck. that. maybe if you want to actually race cross ok sure, i don't know about that, but i do ride quite a lot of gravel and I like my 53/39/26 crank and 11-34 cassette.

If i was you, i'd look at the new meme super compacts, something like 46-30 or 44-28. I'm pretty sure they exist. A 36t small ring is just not small enough at all imo, unless you don't have any climbing in which case, move.

This is a much better bike for the money, the 2017 version is probably discounted somewhere. Otherwise get the 2018 version.You'll have to buy a rear fender and pannier racks seperately but it's a much lighter bike.

I got this bike off Craigslist because I want to do some casual to intermediate mountain biking once the snow goes away.

It's not in great shape. There's cracks around the tread which makes me think it needs new tires. It seems to shift through the gears okay but I haven't ridden a bike in years so I have no reference.Are disc brakes a must?

Shimano Deore derailleurs.

What things should I look out for that may need adjustment/ repair/replace?

Im pretty handy, would I be able to do these things myself or are special tools needed? Should I just take it to a shop and have them fuck my shit up?

>>1155543In what way are the cranks hitting your heal. How are you pedalling currently?

Side question, I’m looking for a 2x8 brifter and specifically an ultegra 600 on eBay, but alternatively I could get locally a set of new Claris 2x8s. Is 90s ultegra going to be better than current day Claris assuming same condition?

>>1155550I'm about 6'0" with a size 12 shoe. I'm just a campus commuter/weekend rider in tennis shoes, so I think that's been contributing to the cranks hitting me.I don't think I'm a toe-down pedaler, I'm probably more flat. I think I've been unconsciously trying to avoid the crank so I feel some soreness in my upper ankle.

>>1155526New tires are the single best upgrade you can make to a bike so get some online for your money and don't cheap out. The other thing i'd suggest is some pinned flats or spd pedals. I have pic related and like them a lot. Much better than your current style and i wouldn't be surprised if those bearings were shot. Spin the wheels, if the bearings are rough in the hubs or there is any side to side play, service them. If they are not round, get them trued. Servicing the hubs is something you can do yourself with some tools, but trueing them is harder. Shift to your smallest chainring, take the chain off the chainring, and spin the crank. If it's rough then look into replacing the bottom bracket. That's not very hard to do. If you want to improve the braking, get some Kool Stop pads. If you want to improve it more, get new cables. Get a chain-wear tool and check for chain stretch, replace the chain if you need to.

Don't do too crazy, if you actually get serious about mtbing you'd want something more modern and if you want a really good commuter you'd want something with a rigid fork. It's an ok bike though. Worth buying tools and learning/ attempting repairs for imo because it's not a biggie to fuck it up and getting a shop to work on it you'll quickly exceed it's value in labour cost.

>>1155593You're not going to decide to buy it before you've seen it in person and ridden it are you? You're not going to agree to buy it before haggling right?

It's personally not my cup of tea, if i wanted a fast track bike to ride on the street it would be threadless with an external bearing crank because you have to mash a fixie to climb, so having a flexy old-standards bike doesn't make a lot of sense to me, and if it was old timey, it would have to float my aesthetic boat slightly more than that does, which certainly looks good, but just not quite good enough. I hate straight blade steel forks. It seriously irks me that the decals have been removed. What the fuck is 'canelli' that's like pinarollo like some chinkshit copyright name or yowapedal.

Liking it is the most important thing (well and fit, and condition), if you like it, you'll like riding it. Arbitrary reasons. So go off that.

>>1155550>Side question, I’m looking for a 2x8 brifter and specifically an ultegra 600 on eBay, but alternatively I could get locally a set of new Claris 2x8s. Is 90s ultegra going to be better than current day Claris assuming same condition?SHIMERGOOO

>>1155734>>1155735>rode unicycle for 5 months>still kinda suck>go up this weird uphill ramp interrupted by tiny flat sections>get caught on flat section>land 180 lbs of amerolard on left legAs soon as I saw that fucking leg go 90 degrees to the right I'm like "it's fucking over lads"

The rear wheel on my bike (pic related) is going out after 4 years of shitty bay area roads. I think the frame is warped since I got it re-trued but it keeps throwing spokes. Does anyone have any wheel recommendations? Ideally ones that are cheap and reliable - don't need any carbon fiber ellipsoid turbowheels for this beater.

>>1155739That sucks dude.. Get well soon. If you're looking for a more stable mode of transport might I suggest one of the many fine offerings from Quality Bicycle Parts? Perfect for everyone, from MGTOW orc-men to hebraic dental surgeons

>>1155814If you can find one of the exact diameter (or really close) it'll be real easy to do, as soon as the ball fits through the hole it's the right size and round and you'll be unlikely to make it too big. Good luck homie.

I took my bike to the local bike shop today. It's been in really rough shape on account of my poor maintenance, which I pledge to be better about in the future.

The back wheel needs to be replaced because a bunch of those long thin wires that hold its shape have fallen off and caused the wheel's shape to warp, so it's all wobbly. Right now I don't even have it mounted on correctly, because I know it needs to be replaced. I've taken it off before to examine it.

I spoke to the guy at the bike shop and had him investigate other problems I was having and he told me I'd need a new rear derailleur (as a piece fell off that guides the chain came off, the chain has been "skipping" while riding), new chain(that it was stretched), and a new freewheel. For all of that and a new wheel, I was quoted $110 and $30 for labor. $140 total.

I wasn't prepared to spend that much today or else I would have already, so I think I'm going to try to find the parts cheaper online in the meantime and may still even bring it all in for them to fix it up for me.

There was another thing I've had problems with that even the bike shop guy wasn't sure of. I'd have this gear shifted up and as I rode my bike it would slide back down on its own to this down position. His only solution was that the gears needed to be adjusted.

I can start up easy if I don't use foot retention, but when when I try to stop, it just lefts me off the saddle as I put literally all my weight on the rear pedal and suddenly my forward foot has nothing under it.

If I use foot retention, I have no idea how to get my second foot into the now moving pedal.

>>1155863Not really desuWalmart bikes and others like them are often packed with "features" like massive groupsets and suspension that don't work properly and are only there to convince teenagers and idiots that they're getting something good, they often also suffer from terrible QC, shit welding and being assembled by absolute idiots

Nothing new at $100 is going to be good, you're better of looking for something preowned that was pretty good when it came out, and has only become cheap because its old

Case in point, a few years ago I got an old viking rigid frame mountain bike, made in England from proper Chromoly steel by people who knew what they were doing for £30, the cheapest thing I could have bought new would have been a supermarket brand "mountain" bike for £99, made in China by a robot from pot metal that would have fallen apart in months

Either buy used or save up $300ish for something minimalist and entry level, like a single speed or commuter with basic but good components on it

>>1155863>$100 Walmart bikes really comparable to my yellow bike?not exactly, IMO, but they have a point. The shop guy isn't ripping you off, it doesn't sound like, but seeing as you paid $60 for it and his quote is more than double that…I don't recommend a wal-mart bike but for that budget of $140 that's certainly an option. personally I'd try to get a good used bike on CL. I paid under $200 for a good bike with everything in good condition a few years ago, try that.your frame is good, fwiw, but that isn't really going to help you.

>>1155869it's worth $50 for sure as long as there are no cracks in the frame (unlikely but check anyway esp all the welds on all sides) I'd put your old saddle on it, though.

I just may buy that Univega bike. Good call about keeping my yellow bike's seat. I've sat on those wide girly bikeseats and they, surprisingly, turn out being way more uncomfortable than a narrow hard seat for some reason.

While we're on the topic of Wallmart bikes, why are entry-level bikes so fucking heavy and expensive?An aluminium Triban 500 or a Giant Defy 5 weight almost 10kg and cost around 500-600€. My shitty OTS that was never particularly good to begin with weights the same and cost one fifth of that.

>>1155883> My shitty OTS that was never particularly good to begin with weights the sameDoubt it, that's 22 pounds which is pretty light for an OTS and your's probably weighs 26-28 if not more.

22 pounds isn't particularly heavy (the Defy 5 is actually close to 21) and you shouldn't feel the need to go lighter unless you're racing, in which case if you can't afford to spend more for a lighter bike you're in the wrong hobby.

>>1154430This anon again. The limited mobility in my fingers wasn't going away so I went to the doctor, and I apparently have a compressed ulnar nerve. Shit sucks. Anyway the doctor said to quit biking for a while (yeah right) so I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for riding on an injured hand? I just got my bike fitted professionally, which definitely helped, and I am trying to ride on the tops with my weight shifted back onto my saddle as much as possible.

>>1155845Non-meme answer.Foot retention is basically required>For a lock down skid stop.Put all you weight forward as you can to unload the rear wheel, lock the rear then ease your wieght back to modulate braking force.>For a quick speed check Same as before but stay forward and hop the rear up and down basically doing a mini Endo repeatedly>Easing to a stopPut all your weight on the pedal Durning it's up stroke switching from side to side.Also Put a front brake on that thing. Street cred will seem like a really dumb concept when your stuck in the hospital. I went through my fixie phase and I enjoyed it, but I use bike for more practical reasons now.

>>115588823.15lbs pedals on. I could probably get it down to 22 with a few upgrades.It wasn't shit (the handlebar is pretty cool, only 240g), but nothing top-tier by the 80's. They had sub-20lb bikes in the 60's.

>>1155890Physio/Physical Therapy student here to help you out. First off, yes I would actually listen to the doc. But of course you won't so at the very least, damn well make sure you keep your wrists neutral(not cocked, flexed, or extended in anyway whatsoever) or you'll just continue compressing the shit out of your ulnar nerve. Get some padded gloves.

Worst case scenario is your nerve entrapment gets so bad that they can no longer provide innervation(signals to contract) to its specific muscles, which is a good portion of your forearm...which will lead to eventual wasting away.

If you're feeling numb right now, the nerve will decompress with rest and as the swelling goes down. As it decompresses you will start to feel it shift from numbness to PAIN which is a GOOD thing. That means you're getting better.

>>1155888>>1155892my '87 Miyata 312 has a listed factory weight of 24.8 lbs, which seemed about what I got when I lifted it on my cheap luggage scale. And the 312 was the base model. The 5,7,and 912 all had better components and presumably lighter

>>1155894Thanks for the help. I've been trying to keep my wrist straight and to avoid putting any weight on it or gripping too hard with it. I don't think it's too bad though because I haven't lost sensation in my hand, just mobility in my fingers. (I can't adduct them, or something.)

I'm having second thoughts about meeting up for that Univega bike. The dude lives on the sketchiest part of town and speaks in broken English, I feel like the bike was stolen. When I bought that yellow Bridgestone bike, it was from a kind old man who told me that he retired and just enjoys restoring bikes for fun. That's the kinda guy I wanna buy bikes from.

>>1155891>Foot retention is basically requiredIt's awkward to get my foot into foot retention when the pedal is spinning around.>Put all you weight forward as you can to unload the rear wheel, lock the rear then ease your wieght back to modulate braking force.>etcI have a brake.

It's the spinning cranks I'm having a problem with. I'm used to push down, coast, get foot into foot retention, then coast to a stop and put my foot down.

>>1155901Adduction is the movement of bringing your fingers back in together after spreading them apart(abduction). So your sensation is intact but you can't actively move it because of pain or because they just won't respond at all?

>>1155912riding a fixed gear with no foot retention is like not using your clutch to shift a manual transmission. everyone does it because that's how they were designed and you'd rightly be called a complete idiot for not using it. you might be able to just jam the shifter but it would be dangerous and you'll wreck your shit.tl;dr git gudor, switch to SS if you want to coast

>>1155913Because they just won't respond. At first it was all my fingers but now it's just my pinky and ring fingers. I can flex them straight but can't bend them at the knuckle without also bending the other joints (I.e. I can't bend them forwards from the knuckle while keeping them flexed straight) and I can't abduct or adduct them at all.

90'S mountain bikes have terrible terrible geometry. I was there. I rode them. Prove me wrong. Alot of them the rider is positioned over the top tube like a road bike. It was only when shaun palmer pushed the MX influence of relaxed geometry, sloped top tubes, shorter stems and riser bars did mountain bikes get gud.

Also i owned a Super V in the early 00's and you kids just dont know what you are getting yourself into with those headshocks. They ran on this this giant stack of needle bearings that were an expensive nightmare to service, resulting in them not getting serviced at all. Have no idea what state they would be in today.

The 90's mtb /n/ meme applies to well made name brand rigids that you get for close to free and ride on. Paying for big bucks for a depreciated worn out complex maintenance intensive piece of metalurgy does not make sense.

Disclaimer: I own a DAT walkman and Lancia Delta. I know of mans folly.

>>1155916>>1155918Listen to this guy since he's an unfortunate result of what could possibly go wrong. Important things are to limit putting your squishy bits of your palm on your bars for a long period of time. Nerve tissue is generally permanent. If severe enough, it doesn't heal well like your skin after a cut, it can develop scar tissue.

>>1155890I've been looking into vibration dampening options for a gravel bike. You could get vibration dampening silicon tape. ESI makes some. They're are also gel inserts like pic related. Then there's the redshift stem that will save your wrist from taking big hits.

Last option if you think the pain is going to be around for a while: build a 650b fat tire allroad bike... Low pressure tires will do more than all of that stuff above... Or be combined with them.

Not sure if that will save your wrist, you should check what the mtbr.com guys say about hand injuries I suspect they know more than three road guys, could be wrong. Roadbikereview forums seem like a smart crowd

You could temporarily shift your weight to your ass instead of wrists with some fit adjustments too. Are you sure your guy didn't cause this injury? Maybe he's an idiot! I found setting my saddle really far back forced me to rely on my core muscles for support and greatly improved comfort in general. I'm no for expert but keeping weight off your hands seems like the right way to go, so in this case jacking up your stem might be counter intuitive

>>1155905>The dude lives on the sketchiest part of town and speaks in broken English, I feel like the bike was stolen. When I bought that yellow Bridgestone bike, it was from a kind old man who told me that he retired and just enjoys restoring bikes for fun. That's the kinda guy I wanna buy bikes from.god you're a fucking pussy retard. You're buying a $60 bike and you're scared of poor people.

currently running a fixed ratio of 48/15,l really want to learn how to wheelie for fun but i think my ratio is too aggressive. can anyone recommend a good balanced ratio for commuting a few miles a day/doing wheelies ?

>>1156001keep in mind skid patches seeing as you don't have a front brake. The number of skid patches you get is the denominator of the simplest form of your ratio so 48/15is 16/5so 5 skid patches, good

What sort of fitness stats do you need to start doing crit races and stuff? I mean in terms of keeping up with the pack and having a solid finish. Also at the beginner level, does having an expensive carbon bike really make a big difference?

>>1156079Since you're asking I'm going to assume you that don't have a cycling group, and recommend that you find one where you live, even if it's just for weekend rides. There's more to racing than pushing pedals, and if you join a race (specially a crit) without knowing how to ride in a pack you're likely to look like a douchebag and endanger yourself and others.

My chain ring bolts keep coming loose and rattling around. I'm afraid I'm going to lose one one of these days.Am I doing something wrong? is there some special technique for tightening chain ring bolts properly?The previous owner of the bike converted it to a 1x, if that makes any difference.

>>1153473>be me>be fat>like pic related>pic related isn't me though>want to learn to unicycle>no idea how to choose a unicycle>$100 budget, would rather go undercan anyone offer me some advice? i can pedal a regular bicycle several miles comfortably, even though i am fat, and a unicycle just seems fun

>>1156276>Also learn to trackstand and practice until it's effortless and you can do it no-hands. I don't get how. Every guide says put the same foot forward every time. That means you can only stop every 20 feet or so. I don't see how I can magically end up in trackstand crank position without skidding to where I want to stop and nailing it with the handbrake. None of this advice makes any sense.

Are you seriously saying stop 20 feet away from a stop light, or figure out how to skid to exactly the right spot?

>>1156279do you put all your weight on the front when you try and skid? get out of the saddle, and basically try to hump your stem, it will take all the weight off of your back tire and let it break traction much more easily

Stupid question. Seriously considering building up a bike from the frame up for the first time as a learning experience. Other than truing wheels and pressing in a BB, are there any other special tools I’d need?

Is there some sort of guide or site to give further context and insight on bike geometry? I can understand stack and reach in terms of fit, but everything else not so much. There’s broad descriptions but no included parameters/ranges that indicate ok this frame has more of a relaxed geometry while because the frame has these numbers this is more for aero and road racing

How the fuck do people ride road bikes?I got one for free >>1154834 and took it on a quick 10 miles ride about town to get a feel for it today and its unstable as fuck, I can't indicate without wobbling all over the road and I spent an hour setting up the brakes but they feel like cream cheese from on top of the hoods, I can only get full power by grabbing the front of the drops and using three fingers to apply them

>>1156513It's like learning how to ride a bike. You just gotta do it until you git gud. The braking part is right. Braking is where the biggest difference in quality between cheap and expensive bikes is; thankfully, it is cheap and easy to upgrade.

So i need your help /n/ I noticed that one of the metal plugs has fallen off my chainring. Does this matter? what are their purpose, and where can i get a new one, if it does matter??> image: the missing part is marked with a blue arrow.