I guess being a "wrench" is kinda like being a doctor. When at a party, and someone finds out that you do what you do for a living...

Anyway, a neighbor came to me with this; He has an '07 ford pickup, with the triton V-8 5.4l. It developed a misfire, so he elected to change the spark plugs. Now these are not your ordinary plugs. these things look more like an igniter for a stove, or a "torpedo" heater. Anyway, he found the culprit, and went to extract it, all came out except the part marked in the pic. it's still in the head, with the ceramic, and electrode still in it.

It's like it just snapped off at the base of the tapered part. (probably the reason it quit firing)

The picture is of one of the other plugs that he replaced @~$13 ea.

The part between the lines is all that's stuck in the head.

I've been delegated to come up with a method of extracting it, without removing the head, or ruining the rest of the engine.

I've gotten pretty good at removing the threaded parts of broken/seized plugs, but this is a new one on me.

There are several tools available for this from either Lisle or Snap on. Google it online. This is an ongoing problem with these engines and is why we get $500 + for a tune up. Plugs should be removed when engine is cold after sitting overnight. Soak plug holes with carb clean, or perhaps Kroil. After you break at least 2 out of the eight plugs. Reach in and remove the electode if you can. The tool is a special easy out that works really wellconsidering the circumstances. You first must crush the porcelin then the easy out part pulls the leftover part out. Be prepared to spend a good portion of your day working on this. Good luck my friend!

These are a b1tch. Without the extractor, this job can take days, and more headache than you can imagine. MAC makes a really good tool for this, when I was with Ford, Rotunda only supplied one tool to the shop, and often we had 6 or 8 of these in for service. So most of us techs bought our own tool from MAC, as it is superior to the Rotunda tool. Costs about $100 CAD off the truck, P/N PE391FC

The problem with these plugs is that they have a shield that extends down almost to the electrode, and that shield is the "2nd piece." On high mileage plugs it often adheres to the outside of the spark plug hole so that when you turn the plug to remove it the shield breaks loose and all you remove is the plug itself. The shield is still stuck in there around the outside.

Ford has also come out with an improved version of the 2 piece plug that is supposed to hold up better and not let the shield break loose. Always use anti-seize on the outside of the shield when you install the plug.

On Mustangs (4.6L engine) they recommend spraying PB blaster or something similar around the plug base before removal (cold engine). Then carefully turn the plug a little bit, and spray the PB blaster again. Follow this process several times and little by little let the PB blaster get between the shield and the head so that it breaks the bond.

There are multiple Ford tech bulletins on the procedure. I like to start with a hot engine and spray each plug with Sili-Kroil and let it soak until the engine is just warm to the touch. Then, loosen the plug slightly and spray again. Then repeat until the plug has turned 1 revolution.

There are multiple Ford tech bulletins on the procedure. I like to start with a hot engine and spray each plug with Sili-Kroil and let it soak until the engine is just warm to the touch. Then, loosen the plug slightly and spray again. Then repeat until the plug has turned 1 revolution.

I hate to contradict you, but the latest Ford TSB have changed some of this info.

I have seen that carb cleaner recommendation but still prefer my method and have alot of faith in Sili-Kroil. The local Ford dealer techs now use electric cordless impacts to remove the plugs and have much better results than when using hand tools. I am not brave enough to try that.

I would take anything Ford says with a grain of salt as they built the the things with a know defect for years.

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