The Case for Sausages

It used to be that autumnal preparations for the home cook involved more than jamming, canning and drying the summer garden’s bounty. One of the lost rituals of preparing for the long winter ahead is the butchering of pork, beef, or game, and preserving the meat. While many home cooks still enjoy putting up for the winter, the convenience of supermarkets and the modern butcher make access to fresh meat simple.

But if you think back to a time when groceries and even refrigerators did not exist, families relied on preparing their meats to last through the winter, using methods such as salting, smoking, or if possible, freezing. Not a bit of the animal was wasted.

I recently re-read my battered copy of Little House in the Big Woods with my seven year old daughter, and to this day, one of my favorite chapters in this childhood classic is the one where they butcher the hog. To have a pig was considered a blessing, and I was always so intrigued by the incredible amount of work that needed to be done at butchering time. The idea of making sausage was exceptionally fascinating.

Making sausage at home is as archaic today as churning your own butter, but I learned that it is not as intimidating as it sounds. Not only is it fairly easy, it is very gratifying to know and be able to control the freshness of the ingredients, and enjoy eating sausage that is better for you, without any preservatives.

So for Challenge 4 of Project Food Blog, I present to you a step-by-step photo tutorial of how to make your own Beer Bratwurst. It is, after all, Oktoberfest season! Since I focused on my Filipina heritage for last challenge’s Luxury Dinner Party, I thought it might be nice to honor my husband’s German heritage this time around.

Oktoberfest is traditionally celebrated in Germany from late September to the first weekend in October, however, in the U.S., many celebrations can be found through the month of October. So if you missed Oktoberfest in Munich this year, fear not. Pull on those lederhosen, pour yourself some beer, and try making your own Bratwurst. It will have you singing and swaying to your favorite Oktoberfest tunes in no time!

Are you ready? Let’s get started:

How to Make Beer Bratwurst

The first thing you’ll need to do is see this guy.

Meet Dan. He’s one of the excellent butchers at my favorite market. I encourage you to get to know your butcher — they are an endless source of information, most important of which is what is most fresh. When selecting your meat, don’t hesitate to tell them what you are making; a good butcher is always happy to guide you with recommendations on cuts, sources, and alternatives. It turns out that Dan is an experienced sausage maker, so I was excited to pick his brain on this project.

We’re going for a fairly traditional German Bratwurst, so you are going to need a blend of pork and veal, as well as some casings. It’s always a good idea to check with the butcher in advance of your sausage making to make sure they have everything you need.

See the beautiful marbling of fat in the pork shoulder/butt? Having some fat is critical to a moist sausage, but as long as you have a very good cut of pork shoulder, there is no need to add fat as some sausage makers do. The leaner veal will balance it out. Throughout the sausage making process, it is imperative to work with cold meat. I can not stress this enough. Freeze the meat for about an hour prior to working with it, and always keep it well chilled throughout the process. There are two reasons: (1) Like butter, it is easier to cut through any fats when it is chilled and it will incorporate better during the grinding, (2) Since the meat is is being handled outside of a chilled environment, we need to keep it cold for food safety reasons. For the latter reason, it makes sense that this is an autumn activity, when temperatures are cooler.

Slice the meat into smaller portions so that it can fit in your grinder. Always return to the refrigerator or freezer until you are ready to grind.

Your food or meat grinder most likely came with two grinding plates. You will grind the meat twice, the first time with the course grind. Keep an eye out for any clogging from fat. Again, using well chilled meat will help avoid this. Return the meat to the freezer for another 30 minutes.

It’s time to season the meat. According to my butcher, dry ingredients are preferable because there is less chance of tearing the casing from chunks of fresh garlic, etc. However, with herbs, you can certainly opt for fresh. With this sausage, I used fresh Italian flat leaf parsley, taking care to remove all stems. Use a mixer or your hands to incorporate the seasoning into the meat.

Pass the meat through the grinder once more, this time using the fine grinding plate.

Before you move on, take a moment to check your seasoning. Take a small piece of the meat mixture, form it into a patty and fry it. Keep in mind that flavors will develop over time, but this will give you a good idea of how your final sausage will taste. Now is the time to adjust the seasoning if necessary.

It’s time give the meat a little drink. Use an excellent quality wheat beer; I deferred the selection to my husband, who is certainly more of the beer aficionado in the household. He chose the Portland-brewed WidmerHefeweizen, a gorgeously amber, unfiltered wheat beer. This award winning beer adds a fabulous flavor to the sausage and calls to mind the famous beer brats of the Midwest. Cover the meat tightly and allow the flavors to marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Then go ahead and sip the rest of that beer – you deserve it after a good day’s work of sausage making.

Okay, now it’s Day Two. I recommend getting an extra pair of hands to help you, especially if this is the first time you are making sausage. A sausage stuffer kit makes the work easier, though it isn’t necessary. If you have a pastry bag with a very wide tip, that would work just as well. Prepare the casing by soaking it in cold water for about 30 minutes. In choosing your casing, hog or sheep casing is readily available, but most recommend hog casing because it is more durable and you are less likely to experience ruptures or tearing. Lubricate the tip of the sausage stuffer with a little olive oil and guide the rinsed casing, gathering it at the base of the attachment. And don’t forget to tie a knot at the end so you don’t lose any of your precious filling!

Start stuffing the meat mixture into the casing by guiding it through the attachment. Take your time to make sure the mixture is packed consistently. Knot the other end. Use a sterilized needle to release any air bubbles in the casing.

Creating sausage links is very easy. Gather about 6-8 inches of sausage and twist at least three times to form a tight seal. Remember that the bratwurst may shrink during cooking, so check the buns you plan on using and size accordingly. Dry the sausages on wooden dowels for about 30 minutes in a cool environment or until the casing is dry to the touch. Refrigerate or freeze immediately until you are ready to use the sausages. The sausages may be kept for 1-2 days in the refrigerator.

Time to grill! Pour yourself some Hefeweizen and get ready to watch your lovingly made creations sizzle on the hot grill. Remember to cook the meat thoroughly; it takes at least 20-30 minutes to cook the bratwurst all the way through.

Go ahead and take a bite! You will be amazed with the authenticity of the delicious Bavarian flavors in this juicy bratwurst! It will be hard to return to store-bought sausages again.

I was completely overwhelmed with all of the wonderful comments on my third entry to Project Food Blog and thank each and every one of you who took the time to vote. My sincerest thanks again to my fellow food bloggers who joined me for my Filipiniana Dinner Party, I could not have done it without you! This post is my submission for Challenge 4: Picture Perfect. Contestants were asked to use photography to create a step-by-step, instructional photo tutorial. Voting for this challenge takes place from 6AM Pacific Time (9AM Eastern) October 11th through 6PM Pacific Time (9PM Eastern) October 14th. Thank you for considering this post – please click here to vote!

Soak the casing in cold water for 30 minutes and rinse. Stuff the casing with the sausage mixture, create links, and allow to dry on a rack for about 30 minutes or until casings are dry to the touch. Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.

88 Responses to “The Case for Sausages”

Liren – outstanding!! What a terrific post and you illustrated it perfectly. I agree with you that Dragers is one of the best markets – love it. I bet these were divine. I am afraid of the casings, but you made it look SO easy. You are a shoe in for #5!!!!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:22 pm

Isn’t Draeger’s the best? I love it and so happy to have one so very close to my house! Don’t be afraid of the casings, you can do it! It’s quite fun, once you get used to it :) Hope we BOTH get to round 5 together!

Ahh…another round of drools for you! I am so impressed with your bratwurst skills b/c I, like Lisa, am scared of messing with the casings (but you make it look soooo simple). Loving the Hef and the toasted buns…and your pictures, oh ma gawd, they are divine!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:20 pm

Thanks my dear! I tried…twas harder than I thought to capture sausage in a photo and make it look halfway appealing, LOL! As for the casings, I will be honest – the first time I handled it, it really was…well…odd. But once I got over it, it was a lot of fun!

Ahhh, my family is German and this makes me think of home! I have been dying to get a meat grinder but dont have one yet. *tear* Maybe I could borrow yours? ;) A perfect post Liren, definitely spot on for this challenge!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:18 pm

Amanda, I would lend it to you! I’m looking forward to trying other things with the food grinder – it’s got a lot of other applications :)

This is beautiful. I would have never thought I would have said that about a post on sausage…but there is no other word to describe what you’ve done here! Not only do I want to eat sausage now, but I also want to curl up with my favorite childhood book (and I agree that the butchering scene was one of the best). Thanks for sharing. You have my support!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:17 pm

Monet, thank you! To have someone say that I was able to capture sausage beautifully means a great deal (it certainly was a challenge!). Oh and yes, one day, do re-visit Little House. It’s so different as an adult! I have a whole new appreciation for Ma.

Holy wurst. I’m utterly speechless. Fantastic visuals, engaging writing, and fascinating subject. I must admit, the very idea of making sausages def does intimidate me…but you made it so much more welcoming for me!

I had the honor and pleasure of tasting one of those beauties! Well done Liren….still reliving the moment! Your pictures were almost as beautiful as the freshness and flavor! Congrats on another awesome post!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:30 pm

Monika, it was so FUN to be able to share these with you. I loved getting your feedback :) And I’m so, so glad that you enjoyed it as much as we did!!!

Your step by step photos made me think of my dad (he’s in Afghanistan right now).. he makes his own venison sausage every year and its always delicious.. and beer bratwurst are one of my faves so these look extra delicious!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 6:34 pm

Aw, Evan, my thoughts are with your dad! Venison sausage?? Wow, now THAT is something I need to try!

I said it in response to your comment on our post, I’ll say it again here! Really great images and great minds think alike. I’m not sure you’ll need it, but good luck in round four. You’ve got our vote, Yay sausage!

Liren replied: — October 11th, 2010 @ 5:37 pm

Yes – great minds DO think alike! Hurray for sausage — you have my vote as well. I love your salty-sweet sausage, what a fantastic idea!! It’s like the perfect breakfast on a stick!

OMG, this has got to be my favourite tutorial so far! I’m so impressed at the gorgeous photos, especially since sausages aren’t exactly the most photogenic dish out there.
Plus, I’ve been dying to try making sausages at home for a while, and you make it look so easy that now I have absolutely no excuse… time to visit my butcher, obviously.

I am excited for your post, too, because, as luck would have it, I actually already have all of these kitchen aid attachments, that I have never used before (I inherited them all from my mother). but I think it is about time that I dusted them off and gave sausage making a try! Thanks for the inspiration, yours look absolutely perfect. =)

Yum – those look amazing, Liren! I’ve never tried making my own sausages before even though it’s one of my absolute favorite things to eat. Thanks to you, I’m not so intimidated by the process anymore. I also love your butcher, both the shop and the guy – looks like a cool place. Good luck this round!

Have just finished the nightly chapter of The Long Winter (we’re now on to the 6th book in Laura Ingalls-Wilder’s series) for my two girls. They love all the food descriptions too – the maple syrup, the salt pork, and the bit about eating the pig’s tail!
Great post, and enjoy a well-deserved rest until round 5.
Cheers, Fiona

Liren, bravo as always ! The hubby had seen this post and said there you go, you have the directions now :) Just may give this a try one of these days. Can’t wait to see what you have planned for round 5 :)

Fantastic post! I have always wondered how to make sausage, and this makes me think that perhaps it’s approachable. OH . .I forgot I don’t have a meat grinder. Hee hee . . still, congrats on a wonderfully written, very detailed and clear post.

Though I hardly eat meat at all myself (so am pretty unlikely to want to make my own sausages), I can appreciate a fabulous tutorial when I see one. Excellent job and thoroughly deserving of a spot in the next round!

GORGEOUS!! We actually put a sausage stuffer on our wedding registry, but no one bought it. (Which, I guess isn’t terribly surprising). This post gives me new motivation to make our own sausage! Well done.

I see you used real intestines! Who-hoo! Good for you! I made my first this summer in Bosna (former Yugoslavia. You want to see rustic? Read my post about how we made it there, in the countryside. They were incredible. And, there is nothing like it. (http://www.acanadianfoodie.com/2010/09/19/srpska-kobasica-serbian-domestic-sausage/)Making my own anything gives me such a sense of satisfaction and it is so healthy! Do your readers know where you are today???? I am so sad I am missing meeting you. I had actually seen this post in the Foodbuzz gallery and was captured by it – because of the title, and my shared interest and experience. Then, stopping by today, realized you were one of my fellow tour bloggers!
Have so much fun.
:)
Valerie

Is it wrong that I dream of the day that I have a meat grinder so that I can do things like this? These look amazing and thank you so much for posting a step by step tutorial. It really doesn’t look that scary when you see it in action.

When I saw the “hanging” sausages, I immediately clicked on the post! My mom used to make homemade sausages back home and I have to say you accomplished an incredible work at it! You also make it sound much easier than it actually is :) The sausages look yummy btw :D:D

Thanks for your intriguing article. Other thing is that mesothelioma cancer is generally brought on by the breathing of materials from asbestos fiber, which is a dangerous material. It’s commonly noticed among employees in the structure industry who definitely have long experience of asbestos. It could be caused by moving into asbestos covered buildings for years of time, Genetics plays an important role, and some consumers are more vulnerable towards the risk compared to others.

Hi, Liren, I agree with you, home sausage making is becoming a lost art. During our stay in Beijing in the past three years, we had a lot of fun making our own sausages by mixing our own spices. Now that we are back in the US, there is no reason not to make them ourselves. Great post!