A wave of fragrance euphoria was sweeping over me as I approached the blooming shrub, which turned out to be Mexican oregano. I am simply stunned at what versatility this plant has for a garden.

When I talk fragrance, I am speaking of two types. The first comes from the small white blooms that are so tantalizing and sweet, they compete with my treasured night-blooming jasmine.

Now before I go off shouting its fragrance virtues, I should tell you of an article that was written when I was executive director of the American Rose Society. It was titled "Does Your Nose Know What My Nose Knows?" I have loved that clever thought ever since.

The point of the article was that perhaps we do not all get the same sweet aroma, whether it is a rose or some other bloom. But this I know for sure, those around me were taking in the olfactory experience as much as I was.

But here is the neat thing: Pick some leaves and you get fragrance No. 2, a pungent oregano for your kitchen that is much stronger than the traditional Origanum vulgare, which happens to be in the mint family.

Botanically speaking, Mexican oregano is Lippia graveolens and is in the verbena family. But don't let this family relationship fool you into thinking 'Homestead Purple.' At the National Butterfly Center, Mexican oregano is a native woody shrub that will reach well over 6 feet tall and is cold hardy to zone 9.

It is native from south Texas to New Mexico and south into Mexico, but those of you north of this zone will grow it just as easily as a basil. You can grow it from seed, propagate by cutting and even overwinter it in a pot protected from winter's harsh temperatures.

Most gardeners and herb lovers in the northern United States grow it in containers, keeping the plant on the dry side and harvesting leaves as needed. A major harvest will be just prior to winter as you cut the plant back for indoor storage. You will want to dry these leaves for use later. Once the plant is cut back, the ideal location would be a bright sunny area, keeping minimum temperatures around 50. Unless you have a greenhouse, this is a holding time; no fertilizer is needed and water usage will be low.

A quick Internet search will reveal people all over the United States growing and using this for its culinary flavor. Other than cold, it is tough as nails. It is a plant that you only water as needed. I have watched it now for months with extreme heat, drying winds and nonexistent rain. Yet it just keeps on growing and performing.

As you can guess, it is in our gardens at the National Butterfly Center because it is a nectar source for butterflies and bees, and the seeds are eaten by birds. This means this plant is a winner any way you look it: tantalizing fragrance from summerlong blooms, culinary use, and well suited to the backyard wildlife habitat.

Norman Winter is executive director of the National Butterfly Center in Mission, Texas, and author of "Captivating Combinations: Color and Style in the Garden."