Thursday, January 17, 2013

"I must return to the mountains—to Yosemite. I am told that the winter storms there will not be easily borne, but I am bewitched, enchanted, and tomorrow I must start for the great temple to listen to the winter songs and sermons preached and sung only there."

John Muir — Letter to Mrs. Ezra Carr (November 15, 1869)

Blend the breathtaking beauty and tranquility of Yosemite's winter landscape, the allure of the grand, historic Ahwahnee Hotel, and the talents of a handful of distinguished chefs sharing delectably innovative cuisine, and behold Chefs' Holidays at The Ahwahnee, a glorious winter tradition celebrating its 28th year. A few hundred dedicated foodies gathered to enjoy this exceptional celebration.

During the month of January, Chefs' Holidays packages offer eight three-day sessions that feature some of the country's finest chefs. The packages include accommodations at The Ahwahnee Hotel or the Lodge at Yosemite Falls, a "Meet the Chefs" reception with wine and hors d'oeuvres, culinary presentations and tastings, a behind-the-scenes kitchen tour and the Chefs' Holiday Dinner Gala in the Ahwahnee's Grand Dining Room. Between events there is ample time to explore the pristine, snow-blanketed valley on foot, on skis, on skates, snowshoes or in a heated motor coach. Any means of transport allow you to more fully appreciate the incredible beauty portrayed by Muir's words and Ansel Adams' photography.

The Ahwahnee, Yosemite's Grand Hotel

I willingly threw out the old and rang in the new, packed my sense of adventure and hopped a plane for my first visit to Yosemite for the kick off of the Ahwahnee's 2013 Chefs' Holidays. "Three Friends Cooking" welcomed long-time friends and California chefs Douglas Keane (Cyrus, Healdsburg), Victor Scargle (Lucy, Yountville) and Peter Armellino (Plumed Horse, Saratoga). Food and travel journalist Janice Wald Henderson served as moderator.

At the Meet the Chefs' Reception, given the first evening, guests and chefs mingled by the massive fireplace at the south end of the Great Lounge, sipping wine and nibbling hors d'oeuvres. Later, they spilled into the crescent-shaped Solarium, where five floor-to-ceiling windows frame the winter landscape. The chefs ascended to the balcony to share stories about cooking philosophies, careers and friendships. After the reception, the evening was free for cocktails, dinner, and late-night lingering in the bar.

The next morning, Chef Douglas Keane gave the first culinary demonstration. In 2005, he and business partner Nick Peyton opened Cyrus. Keane's dream restaurant earned numerous accolades for its "contemporary luxury" cuisine, including two Michelin stars and the James Beard "Best Chef – Pacific" award in 2009

Unfortunately, due to a property dispute, Cyrus closed in the fall of 2012. Keane hinted at plans for his next venture, but didn't elaborate. For his first dish, Keane prepared a salad that showcased chunks of Maine lobster, tossed with bean sprouts quickly sautéed in sesame oil and blood orange segments, served over grated daikon and dressed with homemade ponzu. Tasting spoons were passed at the end of the demo, but we would have to wait for the gala to enjoy Keane's second dish, a succulent pan-roasted lobster tail bathed in butter, thyme and garlic and served with cauliflower cream and uni froth.

Chef Douglas Keane and Moderator Janice Wald Henderson

The afternoon cooking session featured Chef Scargle, executive chef of Lucy Restaurant at the Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville. His philosophy is ruled by the seasons, and he says "If it's not growing in the garden, it's the wrong time to be serving it." Scargle spends his mornings in Lucy's lush gardens looking for just-right ingredients to put on the day's menu. For the demonstration, he prepared and served tastes of a creamy soup made with sunchokes and garnished with finely diced apple, crème fraiche, chervil sprigs and shaved truffle. The second dish featured Broken Arrow Ranch antelope loin with "Forbidden" rice, red kale, turnips and huckleberry jus. Once again, spectators had to wait for the gala to taste this amazing and visually stunning dish.

Chef Victor Scargle

On Day Three, the very funny Chef Armellino presented the
last of the culinary demos. His
Saratoga restaurant, Plumed Horse, presents elegant, modern California cuisine
emphasizing fresh, seasonal and sustainably produced ingredients. His signature
dishes include Big Eye tuna tartare with caviar and quail egg, and black pepper
and Parmesan soufflé, both featured on the Chef’s Grand Tasting Menu. Armellino
readily confessed that he is a truffles, caviar and Champagne man as he wowed
the crowd with his preparation of handmade cavatelli pasta served with a sauce
of wild mushrooms, mascarpone and white truffle butter. His second dish, which I cannot wait to
prepare for my next cocktail party, was bite-sized cannoli filled with smoked
sturgeon mousse. To mimic dessert
cannoli, the ends were dipped alternately in caviar and chopped chives. He
enlisted the aid of the Ahwahnee culinary team to whip up 200 of these morsels
for us to taste. Pass the Champagne, please.

Chef Peter Armellino

Between
demonstrations, lunches, cocktails and dinners, I donned my snow boots, coat
and hat, grabbed the camera and went off exploring. I was up and out of my warm
bed much too early the first morning, hoping to be in the right place at the
right time for that perfect sunrise photo. Darkness, freezing temperatures and
the aroma of freshly brewed coffee lured me back to the hotel and a warm couch
by the crackling fire. The next morning, I was determined to try again. I slept in a bit longer, downed a cup of
steamy java and set out on the very icy, four mile round-trip to Mirror Lake. I
was thankful to have avoided any bear or mountain lion encounters along the
way, but returned slightly bruised and sore just in time for the
behind-the-scenes kitchen tour.

"How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! To behold this alone is worth the pains of any excursion a thousand times over. The highest peaks burned like islands in a sea of liquid shade. Then the lower peaks and spires caught the glow, and long lances of light, streaming through many a notch and pass, fell thick on the frozen meadows."

- John Muir, John of the Mountains (1938)

The impressive 6,500 square foot kitchen is the home away
from home in which Executive Chef Percy Whatley, Chef de Cuisine Robert
Anderson, Executive Pastry Chef Paul Padua and nearly 60 associates work
together. On a daily basis, the staff prepares as many as 1500 meals. The
bakers daily make 25 dozen cookies for afternoon tea, and well as 400 loaves of
bread. In addition to the Ahwahnee’s
signature boysenberry pies and other desserts, the pastry shop creates 300-650
wedding cakes annually.

Chef Victor Scargle straining his veal stock

On the third and final night, the majestic Grand Dining Room
welcomed guests to an enchanting five-course, knock-your-winter-socks-off
candlelit dinner prepared by both hotel and guest chefs. Wines from Napa,
Sonoma and the Central Coast complemented each course. The massive stone
pillars, peeled sugar pine columns and immense picture windows have earned the
room praise as the most striking in any national park. The service also is
impeccable.

Grand Dining Room

The meal opened with Whatley’s mosaic salad of beets,
chevre, citrus and lardo (fatty Italian bacon) paired with Cakebread
Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, 2011 Napa Valley. The second course featured Keane’s
heavenly pan-roasted lobster tail served on a swoosh of warm
cauliflower cream, garnished with uni froth and paired with Treanna Viognier-Marsanne
Blend, 2010 Central Coast. Next was Armellino’s rich and succulent filet of
California sturgeon topped with a thin layer of roasted mushrooms and paired
with Alexander Valley Merlot, 2009 Sonoma County. For the fourth course,
Scargle fanned medallions of antelope loin over a bed of nutty, deep purple
Forbidden Rice. Complemented by red Russian kale and caramelized Tokyo turnips,
and surrounded by a crimson pool of huckleberry jus, the game was paired with
Bridlewoood Red Blend 175, 2011 Central Coast. Dessert was artistically
presented by award-winning pastry chef Paul Padua, who sweetened the evening
with an apricot mille-feuille adorned by tarragon cream, apricot curls and a
white chocolate fan. We lingered after dessert to enjoy more wine, conversation
with new friends and melodies from the Steinway grand piano. Several of us then
retreated to the bar to join the chefs in one last toast to a most memorable
winter escape.

Chef Keane's Roasted Lobster Tail

Chef Scargle's Antelope Loin

Chef Pauda's Apricot Mille-Feuille

On the final morning, I begrudgingly packed my bags and
checked out, but still had time to savor one more serving of the park’s winter
awesomeness during the two-hour Valley Floor Tour. The heated motor coach
stopped at Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, El Capitan, Tunnel View and Bridalveil
Falls. At each stop, we were able to exit the coach and snap a few photos.

Valley Floor Tour

When I left Yosemite, having spent not nearly enough time
for a first visit, I reminded myself the mountains will call again, and I will
go.

Additional winter traditions at The Ahwahnee Hotel include
Vintners’ Holidays in November and December, Christmas Bracebridge Dinners the
last two weeks in December, and New Years’ Eve Celebration packages. Travel to
Yosemite from San Diego is either a 7-8 hour drive or a direct flight on Alaska
Airlines to Fresno ($120 R/T) and then a 2-hour drive via rental car or
Amtrak/bus service.

I cannot wait to prepare and share a few of the recipes from the guest chefs, but I'll to start with the Ahwahnee's signature Sierra Nevada Pale Ale & Fiscalini Farms Cheddar Cheese Soup. After a crisp and brisk walk to Mirror Lake, this soup will warm your body, soothe sore muscles and provide a temporary distraction from your bruised butt. Pair it with a mug of beer or glass of wine, and you will be relaxed and ready for the afternoon cooking demonstration, followed by a nap before dinner.

Begin by preparing the Chive Oil and Sourdough Croutons. Here's Emeril's simple preparation for Chive Oil. I didn't bother with the overnight refrigeration.

Chive Oil

PLEASE, do not skip preparation of these homemade sourdough croutons! In fact, I encourage you to crisp up some additional bacon for garnish and use a tablespoon or so of bacon fat when you saute the croutons ;-)

Heat a 6 qt. stockpot over medium heat and add the diced bacon. Cook until bacon is 2/3’s done. Add the butter, onions and garlic and continue cooking an additional 3 minutes or until the onions are translucent.

When ready, mix in the flour to make your roux, cook for additional 3 minutes.

Using a whisk, slowly add the stock and heavy cream until it has all been incorporated.

Bring contents of stockpot to a boil; add the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, horseradish and bay leaves.

Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the ale and cheddar cheese, whisk soup until smooth and all the cheese has melted and has been thoroughly incorporated.

Remove the bay leaves, adjust the seasoning, and keep hot until you are ready to serve.

* Disclosure – The Ahwahnee Hotel provided a media package for my visit. I was not obligated to write any articles about my stay and have in no way been compensated. The opinions expressed regarding my experience are my own.A condensed version of this article was published by Wine & Dine San Diego on January 29, 2013

Monday, January 7, 2013

I hope you had a wonderful holiday season and you're ready for 2013. I know I am! I'm starting off the year with an exciting 3-day jaunt to Yosemite for Chefs' Holidays at The Ahwahnee Hotel. I arrived yesterday and was welcomed into the park by a beautiful rainbow followed by a light dusting of fresh snow. I wandered around outside the hotel during sunset before the Meet the Chefs reception followed by dinner in the Grand Dining Room. I'm looking forward to today's chef demonstrations with Chef Douglas Keene (Cyrus, Healdsburg CA) and Victor Scargle (Lucy, Yountville CA) and tonight's dinner at Yosemite Lodge at the Falls.

Sunset - El Capitan

When I should have been finishing up my packing Saturday night, I was messing up the kitchen with this past week's French Fridays with Dorie recipe. I didn't find time to make this Herb-Speckled Spaetzle during the week and in time to post on Friday, but spaetzle is one of those side dishes you need to make, especially to go with Pork Schnitzel.

For Dorie's herb spaetzle, you can use whatever combination of chopped herbs you prefer. I used parsley, thyme and rosemary. Dorie also sautés the cooked spaetzle with chopped onion and sliced mushrooms, but I left those out this time.

Herb-Speckled Spaetzle

The ultimate pairing - Spaetzle and Schnitzel

Dorie shared her spaetzle recipe with Epicurious, so you can find it here. I had to add about 1/4 cup more milk to the batter for the right consistency to press through the holes in my strainer. I used Tyler Florence's Pork Schnitzel recipe, here.

The only hard part about traveling is leaving Trapper behind. He hung out in the kitchen with me while I made dinner and I snapped a quick photo for all his Facebook fans. I'm sorry Trapper-boy, I'll take you to the snow some time soon.

Trapper, supervising the spaetzle action in the kitchen

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French Fridays with Dorie is an online cooking group, dedicated to Dorie Greenspan‘s Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours. As members of the group, we have purchased the cookbook and cook along as much as we can. There is a new recipe each week, and we post about that recipe on Friday. We are asked to refrain from posting the actual recipes on our blog. The book is filled with stunning photography, and personal stories about each recipe, which makes it that much more intriguing. I highly recommend adding it to your cookbook collection if you haven't already!