Eating Bambi (recipe included)

Kosher Venison: The Agriprocessors Cure

Most of the anti-Semitic mail I get these days doesn't concern Israel, Hollywood or even the threat of a nuclear war in the Middle East -- it's about meat.

The largest supplier of kosher meat in America, Agriprocessors Inc., has been the subject of ongoing public investigation and criticism for two years now.

An undercover investigation in the Forward newspaper first revealed inhumane treatment of cows at the company, located in Postville, Iowa.

A further investigation brought charges of exploitative labor practices.

Then, on the morning of May 12, 2008, in what officials called, "the largest single-site operation of its kind in American history," 900 agents from Immigration and Customs Enforcement executed a raid of Agriprocessors.

They rounded up hundreds of illegal immigrants, who comprised some 75 percent of the company's workforce.

A subsequent story by New York Times reporter Julia Preston found that 20 of the employees were underage, some as young as 13.

The article reported on several sickening incidences, including one, documented by an company report, in which a worker holding a knife was kicked by a rabbi, cut himself, was sent for stitches, then ordered back on the line.

Agriprocessors has refuted, fought or attempted to make right on these charges. The company brought in animal expert Dr. Temple Grandin to advise on raising the company's animal treatment standards.

Agriprocessors owner Aaron Rubashkin denied he has engaged in unethical labor practices and blamed the failure of U.S. immigration policy.

"Everything is a lie," Rubashkin told the Jewish Telegraphic Agency.

The company has taken out full-page ads in the Jewish press, including this paper, offering a point-by-point rebuttal of the charges.

Last week, it hosted a group of 25 Orthodox rabbis from the United States and Canada on a one-day visit to the plant.

"It's a different picture than what's been portrayed," Rabbi Dovid Eliezrie of Chabad of Yorba Linda told me. "We roamed the plant for hours, talked to anybody we wanted to. The working conditions, the safety benefits, I found them above par. It's not the reality the unions are telling."

The trip may have served to calm concerns among some kosher consumers, but judging by my mail, the damage is far more widespread.

Bambi trailer (1942)

"What will The JEWS Think of Next?!?!?" read a letter I received this week. Inside, the author had considerately attached a folded copy of Preston's New York Times article.

Of course, the image of bearded, black-hatted rabbis abusing farm animals and poor Guatemalan workers is red meat to the scattered anti-Semites out there, but this isn't a problem of anti-Semitism.

Kashrut is a legal system rooted in morality, and the problems at Agriprocessors occurred because we chose to look away from the messy business of killing animals for food.

Now, like the rest of America, we are looking. There is great unease with our food supply and our factory farm system, a system created by market forces that places profit and efficiency above sustainability, kindness and flavor. The Jews, to our discredit, have simply followed the market's lead -- it's called Agriprocessors, after all, not Moishe's Kindly Kosher Cow Farm.

But just as Americans in general are taking control of their food supply -- "locavore" was the Oxford American Dictionary's 2007 Word of the Year -- there is a broad consensus that the kosher "brand" should stand for something more than the most narrow and utilitarian interpretation of kosher practice. We can't blame the system without changing our personal behavior.

That's why another common e-mail I get these days is also about meat -- about whether there is a source in Los Angeles for kosher, organic, humanely raised and slaughtered meat.

Norman Schlaff runs Musicon Farms, the only kosher venison farm in the United States.

Situated on 100 acres in Goshen, in upstate New York, the farm slaughters about 25 deer every six weeks. Customers include high-end restaurants in New York, such as Le Marais and Levana; mail-order customers nationwide, and Tierra Sur, the exceptional Oxnard restaurant headed by chef Todd Aarons.

If you Google Musicon, you'll find some nasty comments from the folks at People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. They sent undercover investigators there who took footage of the slaughter, and I gasped watching Bambi's throat cut -- but I didn't look away.

Schlaff, in a phone interview with me, maintained that his animals are treated with care -- they roam freely, and there is music playing to reduce noise level and stress in the loafing barns. They're raised without steroids and chemical additives and are fed an organic diet of hay, grains and fruit.

Schlaff, a New York native, made his money in sound engineering -- his technology is installed in Shea Stadium, at the U.S. Open and on either side of movie house ticket booths around the country. He's not getting rich selling a few dozen deer for between $5.50 and $30 per pound, plus pricey, specialized shipping.

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