Climbing World Championships 2018

Q&A: Adam Ondra Takes Second in Lead

BD Athlete Adam Ondra went from climbing 5.15b slab in Canada to claiming second place in the biggest climbing comp of the year. In this interview, he shares his thoughts on everything from the controversy surrounding the quarterfinals, his often detrimentally dry skin, and what style problems he needs to win the bouldering comp.

ADAM ONDRA: ROAD TO TOKYO

BD Athlete Adam Ondra is arguably the best rock climber in the world. With the competition scene entering the big stage during the 2020 Olympics, Ondra has decided to give everything to indoor climbing in hopes of taking home the gold. The first big test? Next month’s IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. Check out this video that documents Ondra’s recent training on the long road to Tokyo.

SEAN BAILEY: ROAD TO INNSBRUCK

BD Athlete Sean Bailey is psyched to throw down at the World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, this September. As the reigning 2018 National Champion in lead climbing, and a recent 2nd place finisher at the bouldering World Cup in Vail, Bailey has been ramping up his competition game. Check out Sean’s thoughts on how he became a climber, and why he cherishes the opportunity to travel the globe for World Cup competitions.

FANNY GIBERT: ROAD TO INNSBRUCK

In the beginning, Fanny was not very passionate about climbing. She loved practicing every sport. She was just following friends and my big brother. However, a teacher from her school —who happened to be a crazy passionate climber—created a little training group with Manon Hily. Slowly she stopped every other sport to climb more and more: bouldering, lead, indoor and outdoor. Click here for more details:

PARACLIMBING CHARITY: EVERYBODY CAN CLIMB!

Together with the climbing platform Climbers Paradise Tirol the charity campaign “Klettern kann jeder” was started to support Paraclimbing Austria. Paraclimbing means climbing for people with physical and/or sensory disabilities. The main goal is to create awareness in and around the climbing scene for climbing with disabilities and to generate donations that will support Paraclimbing Austria. A crash pad couch made from a Black Diamond crash pad is currently touring Tyrolian climbing locations to make an appeal for donations.

Patxi Usobiaga: From Winning World Championships to Training Adam Ondra

In 2009, BD Ambassador Patxi Usobiaga was arguably the best competition sport climber in the world. That year, he won the world championships, forever leaving his legacy on the sport. But just behind him, taking second that year, was a young Czech guy named Adam Ondra. Patxi recognized the fire inside the young climber, and once again had a vision—this was the future. Patxi is still dedicated to competition climbing, and is on the road to the Olympics, only now it’s as Adam Ondra’s coach and trainer. Check out this story from Patxi on how his path has led him to the 2018 Innsbruck World Championships.

CLAIRE BUHRFEIND: ROAD TO INNSBRUCK

BD Athlete Claire Buhrfeind thrives on competition. This past March, the 19-year-old from Texas burst onto the scene, becoming the U.S. national champion in both speed and lead climbing. Now, she has her eye on the World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, and is looking even further into the future at the 2020 Olympics. But for Claire, competing isn’t about going toe-to-toe with other climbers. In fact, her philosophy is more of an inward journey. Read on to learn how Claire views competition, and why climbing is so important to her.

JACKY GODOFFE: Think XXL

Jacky Godoffe needs little introduction. The French boulderer was a true pioneer in the forest of Fontainebleau, ushering in cutting-edge grades with iconic testpieces. However, as his personal climbing goals shifted, Godoffe has continued to influence the global climbing scene—now through his visionary route setting. As the chief setter for bouldering at the IFSC, Godoffe explains how his past has led him to the future of climbing’s progression, and now to the big stage of the World Championships in Innsbruck.

Behind the Scenes of the Innsbruck World Champs: Klaus Isele—Physio on the Road to Tokyo

Klaus Isele—one of the world’s leading climbing physical therapists—sat down with Black Diamond to chat about his role at the 2018 IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck and his in-depth work with Adam Ondra.