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In the vastness of all that white and blue, it seemed an impossible task.

And after spending hours doing it, I realized that finding two little tubes protruding from the silky sand at the bottom of the azure sea really isn't a job for beginners. Good thing my companions were experts at spotting clams hidden at the bottom of the Sea of Cortez or I might have gone hungry during my week in Baja.

No chance of that with locals fishing for sea bass and snapper, spearing lobsters by the bucketful and scooping up those elusive clams.

For a landlocked Albertan, a day on the water followed by a seafood feast grilled over a fire on the beach is about as close to heaven as you can get. And the entire Mexican peninsula offers opportunities for anyone adventurous enough to seek them.

My week began with a leisurely drive through desert landscapes from the airport at San Jose del Cabo, a quaint town 40 minutes north of party central, Cabo San Lucas. The highway runs through the middle of the state past Buena Vista and Los Barriles to La Paz, the capital city of Baja California Sur. Founded by Hernan Cortez in 1535, the town of about 215,000 has become an inter-national fishing port.

Sporting beautiful beaches, it's worth a few days stop to shop and stroll the romantic seaside malecon (boardwalk) that runs along the gorgeous bay, especially during the stunning sunsets. But don't dawdle too long, for more elusive bays and coves await on the trip north toward Loreto.

We pulled off the highway about a half-hour north of Cuidad Constitucion and onto a dirt road that will test your fillings before you're done. The road winds through the scrubby desert with its collection of pitaya and el Cardon cacti, the largest species in the world. As the road nears the coast, it climbs through mountains and narrows to barely a car-width with nothing between you and the desert floor, 150 metres below.

But the scene unfolding before you will keep you focused on arriving safely. The sun glints off the ocean, islands dot the coastline and hares and burros forage in the sparse vegetation.

This isn't Canada - there are no KOA or utility hook-ups.

It's bare-bones camping and you best have all the food and water you'll need or it's a long drive back up the canyon for supplies.

But you'll find quiet stretches of beach with either rocky or sandy shores and clear waters to explore.

Approximately one quarter of the Sea of Cortez was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The tour companies operating kayak excursions here understand the treasure they have, and have gained a worthy reputation for ecotourism.

"The outfits now operating here are in it for the long term and are committed to preserving this precious commodity," says Nancy Mertz, co-owner of Sea Kayak Adventures, which operates out of Loreto.

"We're so humbled and grateful to do what we do and to be able to bring people to the world's aquarium."

Our group pitched camp a few kilometres down the road from Rancho San Cosme, which is populated by three generations of a family.

They raise horses, mules, chickens and anything else they can to survive in such an isolated place.

One daughter-in-law, Andrea, makes lovely shell jewelry she sells to wayward kayakers and campers like us.

Her husband Julio is the resident expert fisherman who keeps everyone fed.

For about $50, he will take tourists out on the water, trolling for fish and sharing his skills with a harpoon.

As a novice, I hung back out of the way of the spears but still close enough to see every detail of the underwater ballet.

Taking deep breaths, Julio and the other local men would tuck and dive three or four metres to probe the reefs.

It wasn't as easy as it sounds as lobsters are lightning fast and the divers have to surface every minute or two for air.

But they net enough of the crustaceans to feed the family, the beach campers and, occasionally, those on neighbouring ranches.

Finding clams is a little harder as they bury themselves in the sandy ocean floor, with only two tiny air tubes sticking out. Snorkelling metres above, the tubes are easily mistaken for bits of seashells, and vice versa.

But after awhile you can tell the difference and then it's a case of learning to dive deep enough and fast enough to scoop them up before they disappear into the sand.

I couldn't dive far enough to reach them but did a happy dance of sorts when I managed three metres to collect a fig shell. My haul was pretty pitiful compared to the lads in the boat but I was as proud of that one shell as they were of their bountiful catches.

Even if you're not interested in catching dinner, snorkelling here is extraordinary. This part of the Baja is famous for calm waters and there are about 900 species of brilliantly bejewelled fish. It's also easy to get to as both La Paz and Loreto have airports. Condo complexes have sprung up around both towns, including several built by Canadian developers.

But where La Paz is bustling, Loreto maintains a quaint charm, where you can eat fish tacos in shady alleyway restaurants, quaff a cool beer poolside or chat up fishermen cleaning their catch at the marina. And after a few days diving with the locals, you may even have a few fish tales of your own to share.

If you go:

- There are a number of both local and Canadian-based companies running adventure tours in Baja.

- Sea Kayak Adventures operates in both British Columbia and Baja. The owners, Terry Prichard and Nancy Mertz worked as guides in Baja before starting their company in 1993. They are one of the few companies with permits to operate out of Loreto Bay, National Marine Park. Their trips run the gamut from a one-day Loreto trip or multi-day, all-inclusive, kayaking excursions in Loreto Bay National Marine Park. Trips go from October to May. seakayakadventures.com

- Baja Kayak Adventure Tours is a family-run business based on Gabriola Island, B.C. It runs winter kayak tours and multi-day adventure tours in Baja, including one to Rancho San Cosme. info@bajakayakadventures.com

- Paddling South is a small outfit that caters to do-it-yourselfers, as well as all-inclusive trips including one for all-women. www.tourbaja.com

-In La Paz, check out Mar & Aventuras (Sea & Adventures Inc.). Based in Montana, it offers day trips and others ranging from two to 11 days. www.kayakbaja.com

- Baja Outback runs excursions all over Baja, from Cabo to La Paz and in-between. They offer a number of day trips but will also custom design longer trips. www.bajaoutback.com

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