I have recently purchased a well used 1975 hobie 16 and I'm looking for some help with setting up the tapeze. I'm new to sailing as well as hobies. I've had it out a few times over the last few weekends and am loving it. The boat came with all the hardware (I think), and I have read the manual (pages 13 and 22), but I still can't figure out how to correctly rig the trapeze.Does anyone have a better description, or better yet, a few pics of a properly set-up trapeze on a similar vintage boat?

Thanks Jman.I haven't had a chance to take some pictures, but I'll describe what I am having troubles figuring out.The trapeze wires are attached to the mast properly a the mast tang.(I have just 2 wires, so one trapeze wire per side)right now they are just hanging. (I've tied them off to the side shroud lines) They have the plastic black handles, with the wire loops about 6 inches down.I have dogbones, and some line. I have no shock cord (which I assume is pretty much a long bungee).My questions are:The purpose of the bungee (shock cord) is to keep tension on the dogbone when the trap is not being used and when the trap is not fully loaded...right?

When the trap is fully loaded, the line attached to the dogbone is stopped at the wire loop by the plastic rope lock...right?

Is there anything special about the shock cord, or could I use a long bungee?

Yeah, the shock-cord's job is to retract the dogbone back to it's "parked" position when not in use. It's really important that you use the correct length (approx. 7') of shock cord so that: a: The handles will retract completely out of the way when you release them; and b: So that you have enough stretch in them to get right out toward the stern of the boat (for the skipper) when you need to, without feeling as though the trap is trying to pull back against you or stop you from going as far back as you need.

There's a big difference between a bungee and proper shock-cord from a marine wholesaler. You want it to work and to last, so go get yourself some of the proper gear and do it right.

Oh yeah, and you're right. The stopper block controls the length of the trap rope when you get out on it. It's a personal preference thing depending on how flat you want/need to lay back. Matt Miller recommends using 2 on the one line of you're over the 180 lb mark.

Seasoned Hobie sailor recommended enough shock cord (in trapeze setup) to allow one to take a trip around the fore stay, in the event of pitch pole.

Further advice was to bypass the grommet holes in the Hobie tramp, through which you may route the bungee, in favor of just allowing it to run up the side of the tramp, free to run around to the front, in the event of pitch pole.

The recommendations were made with a view toward my current setup with Hobie tramp and Hobie bungees run through the grommet holes in the tramp. Seems that setup may not allow enough bungee stretch, to clear the jib and fore stay in the event of pitch pole.

I am seeking further advice from seasoned sailors and thanks in advance for the help.

If you put on enough shock cord to travel around the forestay, I believe it will be so loose when it's slack that it will be useless. If I pitch hard enough to go around the forestay, the last thing I'm worried about is shock cord. That said, I do use the little plastic hooks that will break if loaded hard....they only cost a buck or two.

I'm a very green sailor myself so I was reading my book.The book is catamaran sailing start to finish.It suggested that you hang on the line when on the beach to learn how to slip on and off the hull.When I did this the line was routed improperly in the adjuster and dropped me in the lake about 6" deep.It would have been a serious bummer if I was trapping for the first time and this happened and tipped immediately or watched my boat sail away.

Funny story; I followed what I read and did the same thing, practicing getting on and off the trapeze and making adjustments to my 20 yr old trap wires. I was all hiked out on the beach, layed out like I should be and WHAM! My butt was in the sand... my trap wire had broken.... how embarrassing

That said, I do use the little plastic hooks that will break if loaded hard

Where are the "little plastic hooks" found?

The same source for the aforementioned advice, uses this setup from Hobie.Any thoughts on that system?

If Hobie or Murrays doesn't sell them, Worst Marine does:

Never used the double-length stuff. Maybe it's not the perfect indicator, but I've never seem a Hobie 16 rock star use one. Where I can see advantages, it just doesn't seem necessary or worth the trouble. Properly sailed, the Hobie 16 can be driven very hard without pitching. I'm a firm believer in spending more time on the boat learning to sail it better vs. buying more stuff for it. (Not meant to be a value judgement, just what works for me.)