Wednesday, 2 September 2015

Photo Essay: Day Nine of the Coast to Coast Walk

"The civilized
man has built a coach, but has lost the use of his feet."

-
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Day Nine: from Keld to Reeth(12.5 miles/20 km)

Summary
of Route: Today's stage is simple in concept:
you hike further east across the Pennines from Keld (on the western end of the Swaledale
valley) to Reeth (on its eastern end). Almost immediately — on the eastern edge
of Keld —you intersect the Pennine Way,
which runs south-to-north along the spine of northern England.

Apple trees done espalier-style in Healaugh

But
to get to Reeth, you face a choice of alternate routes near the beginning of
the hike — just like the previous stage. This time, however, there are only two
options, instead of three. You can opt for a higher route, across hills and
moorland; or you can choose a low route which takes you right through the
beautiful and picturesque Swaledale valley.

Protecting floors from hiking boots in Gunnerside tea-shop

The
high route is rugged and wild — with lots of opportunities to see wildlife.
There are also interesting historical sites to see — archaeological evidence of
prehistoric settlement, and the ruins of lead mining that flourished here in
the 18th and 19th centuries. There are the remains of the Swinner Gill Smelting
Mill, for example, near the beginning of this high route (at East Grain), and
the extensive remains of the Old Gang Smelting Mill, about half way along.
There are also some scenic ruins at Blakethwaite, in the Gunnerside Beck
valley.

The
high trail goes east across the Melbecks Moor, the Reeth High Moor and the
Reeth Low Moor, following the streams of the Old Gang Beck and the Barney Beck.
Further evidence of the lead mining is seen on the moors in the stripping of
topsoilby water gullies
("hushes"). The gullies were channelled through here to expose the
minerals. The high route meets the low one just west of Reeth.

At Ghyllfoot tea-shop in Gunnerside

It's
going to be a tough choice of route: the historical interest and wild
attraction of the high route competes with the lovely villages along Swaledale
of the low route. If you're keen to see a perfect example of the picturesque
attractions of the Yorkshire Dales, here it is — presented as a level and
leisurely stroll through the valley.

Coming into Heelaugh

The
low route is a lovely, easy stroll along the valley, passing the beautiful
villages of Muker (one of James Herriot's favourites), Gunnerside (which has an
old smithy — with attached museum), and Healaugh. The two routes meet in Reeth
village.

Swaledale

Remote house up in Swaledale

Today
was an easy hike along the Swaledale valley. We chose the low route, in order
to enjoy the beauty of the hamlets spread out along the northern side of the
River Swale. It would have been even better (especially for photographs) with
sun, or sunny periods; but the sky was overcast all day, and we had to put up
with several rain showers.

River Swale

On
the trails of the Coast to Coast Walk you meet different types of travellers:
most of them. of course, are hikers; but we have also met cyclists (some in the
most unpredictable places — on paths you wouldn't imagine a bicycle should be),
runners, and motorcyclists (on some of the secondary roads we have walked along
or crossed). Older people are usually in pairs; younger people are often in
groups of four or five. We've met larger groups involved with the Duke of
Edinburgh awards. And, occasionally, there are family groups. Once in a while,
there are individuals who brave the trails alone. One can only imagine the
extra mental strength required to engage in long-distance hiking alone.

Meeting cyclists high in Swaledale valley

There
were lots of ruined stone cottages and farmhouses along the valley. They must
have been very isolated back in their time — probably the homes of sheep
farmers. We also noticed some attractive stone bridges arching high over the
Swale river, and some quirkily-designed, and narrow, footbridges over the rivers and streams.

Ruined shepherd's cottage in Swaledale

High stone bridge over the Swale River

Tony on a footbridge over the Swale river

Invariably
you lose stuff on a holiday. So far, I've managed to hold on to all my stuff;
but today, when I got to the village of Healaugh, I noticed that my camera's
lens hood was missing. Not too much of a disaster, but I do rely on the hood to
protect the front of the lens and UV filter from being damaged. Sure enough,
later on — probably crossing a stone stile — the filter got scratched. Bu it
doesn't seem to effect the quality of the images my camera is capturing.

Cow heavy with calf

Quote of the Day:

"I reckon we'll get there ... when we get there."

- Michael
(responding to Clive's query for an ETA)

You
see some quirky signs along the Walk, as you hike through villages and towns.
If I see one that captures my interest, I'm sure to take a photo. The English
tend to be more creative and more wacky in the signs they post in shops, mount
on street walls, or business premises.

In Healaugh

At
the end of a day's hike, we usually have two or three hours of solitary time
before we meet again for dinner. First thing to do is to wallow in a hot bath,
or have a long shower, if a bath tub is not available. Then I take the memory
card out of my camera, and transfer the day's photographs to my laptop. Then I
cull them, selecting about 25 shots that I might put on the day's blog post.
This selection is transferred in a folder to Picasa, where I do a bit of editing
(usually cropping and adjusting the contrast for certain images). These
pictures get transferred back to my Pictures folder as "Picasa
exports". And, finally, they get inserted into the blog posts user
blogger.

The bar in the Buck Hotel in Reeth

Copper Dragon ale

Michael
has pre-booked all the evening meals. The selection has been interesting. Most
of it has been "pub grub", but we've also had Indian and French. I've
had some local delicacies, that I've not experienced before — like Cumberland
Sausage, and Steak and Ale Pie. And, of course, there are plenty of local ales
to imbibe along with the food.

Dinner at the Buck Hotel

Tonight,
for example, at the Buck Hotel in Reeth, I had fish and chips. A large portion
of beer-battered haddock. The local favourite ale is Copper Dragon — of which
we sampled a couple of pints each. A good way to end the day. And I struck up a
conversation with one of the musicians for a duo called Crackpot. We listened
to them play for an hour, or so, before retiring to bed.

Quote of the Week

"There is a crack in everything; that's how the light gets in."

-Leonard Cohen

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