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Description

A very unique climb. Start up a short face and duck around a low roof. Move up the crack and establish yourself below another small roof. It is possible to go right here, but it may be harder up higher and there is pendulum-fall potential. If you go left, you will get into a jumbled crack with very stemmy movement. There is a "rattler" near the crux - a loose chunk that is wedged into the crack. Tenuous stemming gains you better holds and a mantel up to a small ledge. A final section of thin face climbing guards the anchor bolts.

This was originally a trad route, and given the bolt placements, may be easier to do on trad. Also check out the Security Blanket variation start.

Location

Right side of the Basement between overhanging boulder problem of Ferrari on the left and the alcove/horizontal crack of Cowboy Arete to the right