Could you elaborate on this? The reason I ask is that one time in removing one of my caliper bolts to change pads, the allen key actually turned in the head of the bolt rendering it useless. I ended up having to take the car back to the shop. They were afraid of drilling it given location, and took off the whole caliper mounting bracket and used a vice grips to remove the remainder of the bolt.

I found that the Ferrodo pads were ok, and believe it or not, better than the Porterfield race pads that I swapped in. The porterfields are an example of why I have an issue of the caliper-off system. After one and a half track days, the pads are worn down to where there is probably less than a one-half track day left in them. But because of the Brembo caliper design, I might as well throw them away because I wont be able to change them mid-track day.

Keep us posted on how the Pagid's work out.

Mick

Porsche recommends caliper bolts as a single-use item, torque it one time and toss it upon removable. I have a small box of visually perfect bolts but recently got lazy and just re-used the last ones I had. Porsche uses a green threadlock on this bolt and it's a real PITA to get on and off and this, and maybe why they have this specification. An impact driver almost required otherwise I'd probably strip the head as you mentioned.

To help get the bolts out easier have you tried rotating the wheel to lock to each side and then using an impact driver? It makes it less of a hassle.

I'll be going to back to using new bolts however since a friend in an E30 dedicated track car with a very nice Wilwood brake kit sheared a front caliper bolt which then rotated the caliper and locked a front wheel, sending him off track at high speed resulting in broken suspension, bodywork, hub, and oil pan...spectacular damage from the failure of a single bolt, perhaps over-torqued perhaps not.

The Ferodo 3000 race pads I got from Brembo worked well but wore much quicker than the current PFC01, I got 5-6(!?) days from the Ferodos and about 15 from the PFC01, which have 30% of their thickness left and about done. I'm glad your having good luck with the Ferodo's, they stopped well but would result in studdering if I didn't bring them up in temperature on the first laps out. Try the PFC01's next, they're a little bit more $ but the Porterfield USA distributor will custom cut the pad shape from a blank, strange I know.

I have great faith in Pagid products, from my previous experience they wear like rocks, don't transfer material and are very consistent. Like the PFC01's, they are essentially endurance race pads. I also swapped from Super Blue to Motul 600 and now 660 fluid, which seems to preserve pedal firmness for a bit longer.

I wish Brembo would make kits with real world track ready rotor sizes, this 380mm rotor BS is worthless to those who track their cars.

Have you priced replacement friction surfaces for your rotors?...re-using the hats, about $400 each in 355mm.