Backyard Bistro might have best food in Hudson Valley

Friday

Aug 26, 2011 at 2:00 AMSep 1, 2011 at 10:07 AM

Backyard Bistro couldn't be more aptly named. As we pulled off Route 17K, at first glance it appeared we had arrived at a very nicely landscaped backyard. A tiny sign let us know we were in the right place, as did the handful of cars parked along the fence line. The pocket-size restaurant was housed in a converted double garage, behind a house containing the offices of Holberts Catering.

Kelly Kingman

Backyard Bistro couldn't be more aptly named. As we pulled off Route 17K, at first glance it appeared we had arrived at a very nicely landscaped backyard. A tiny sign let us know we were in the right place, as did the handful of cars parked along the fence line. The pocket-size restaurant was housed in a converted double garage, behind a house containing the offices of Holberts Catering.

We were greeted warmly and shown to our table at the center of a tiny dining room. This meant our proximity to our neighboring diners was a bit cozy for my taste, but as the room filled for a weeknight dinner service the happy noise of conversation seemed to surround us in a little bubble of privacy. The interior bore no resemblance to the garage it once was. Tasteful peachy taupe walls and tablecloths bathed us in a light warmth, as did the flicker of tealights throughout the room. A few hand-painted trees on the walls provided subtle accents, but the subtlety bordered on bare.

We enjoyed some Voss sparkling water, and I ordered a glass of the pinot gris ($8), quite light and crisp for this warm August evening. Our server was clearly a seasoned professional, as he walked us through the gluten-free options on the menu with regard to my friend's dietary restrictions. I was left alone to the bread basket, which contained a delicious garlicky chickpea dip and some almost too-rich blue cheese bread made in-house. We were soon brought an amuse bouche — a button of seared polenta topped with house-cured lardo and fresh herbs — and it increased my anticipation of what was in store for our meal.

To start, we sampled a chilled melon soup with jalapeño ice ($6), which arrived in a large martini glass. The soup itself was refreshing and grassy, with the spiciness gradually increasing as the granita of jalapeño ice dissolved, such that you could enjoy a different ratio of heat and coolness in each spoonful.

I almost chose the smoke-roasted mussels and roasted tomato crostini with lemon-basil garlic broth ($11), but in the end decided to try the equally delicious-sounding Asian barbecued pork belly with watermelon kim chee ($10). I was presented with a slender rectangular plate containing a delicate pile of kimchi and topped with five cubes of pork belly.

The pork melted in my mouth — the perfect balance of smoky and sweet, and the slaw-like cabbage provided a tangy counterpoint. The only change I might have made was to bring out more of the watermelon flavor, which seemed to be lost a bit in the soy sauce-like dressing. Otherwise it was all I could do not to eat it all and spoil my appetite for our next courses.

My companion had only a few gluten-free options for main courses, among them the berbere-grilled wild salmon ($26), which was infused with the pungent Ethiopian berbere spice mix and served with a honey-lime yogurt and baby beet salad. The tender, meaty salmon stood up well to this intense spice, which gave it almost a curry-like flavor, complemented nicely by the cooling nature of the yogurt and beets.

At our waiter's recommendation, I tried the cilantro-lime pork loin ($23), which was accompanied by a chipotle potato gratin and tequila-macerated peaches and drizzled with a creamed corn sauce. The dish was intensely rich but managed not to be overpowering, and the delicate play of sweetness and spiciness brought out the best in the tender pork and phyllo-like layers of potato.

I noticed as the dining room filled to capacity our server's attentions became less frequent. I didn't mind lingering over my meal, but there was a point that his absence grew conspicuous.

Soon we ordered our desserts, and I opted for the hazelnut cake with fig jam, shiraz caramel and goat cheese sorbet ($8). The dessert arrived on a small slab of stone, with the sorbet resting on top of a little pile of powdered Nutella. While each of the elements of the dessert was quite delectable on its own, there were so many bits and pieces that it failed to harmonize as a dish. It was further upstaged by the (gluten-free) creme brulée ($8) with a layer of mocha ganache on the bottom. It was heaven — the custard was easily the airiest I've ever had, complemented by the dense, bittersweet ganache. We were soon competing over the last spoonfuls.

To top off this amazing experience, we were presented along with our check a dessert amuse — a spoonful of red wine strawberry vanilla sorbet in a honey lime yogurt. As if we weren't already dazzled by our dining experience, this elegant little touch sent us off with a pleasant taste, cheerfully plotting to return.