Shingles Bubbled Up

The dark shingles on my overhang have bubbled from the heat from 18 years of use. The shingles are two tone, light tan to brown. Only the brown part is affected. None of the light tan part show any signs of bubbling. The brown tone is about 4 times darker then the light tan. The overhang has a 3/4 inch gap covered with screen for venting just above the front fascia which I thought would be enough to vent excess heat. The overhang is 15 foot long by 2 foot wide.
My questions are:
Does the light colored part of a shingle reflect that much heat to make that much of a differance in heat absorbance?
Whose shingle products do the pro's use?
I plan on replacing the shingles myself. I already added four 6 inch round vents to the underside to increase the venting area.
Is it necessary to remove the top flashing which is caulked against a brick wall and secured to the roof with nails and what appears to be a few screws?
It looks like I can pry the front part of flashing away from the old shingles to slip in new 15 lb felt and shingles and re-caulk where necessary. If its necessary to remove the flashing, then I don't think I could do it without damaging the flashing and will need to hire a handyman with a sheetmetal brake to form new flashing. I am trying to avoid both if possible.

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The overhang has a 3/4 inch gap covered with screen for venting just above the front fascia which I thought would be enough to vent excess heat. Every ventilation product sold is defined by an NFVA, Net Fee Venting Area, which eludes to how functional it will perform. You need an equal of 60% to 40% balance of Intake to Exhaust ventilation for the best performance, with Intake ventilation being more crucial than Exhaust venting. Calculations nust be made, depending on the attic floor space footprint dimensions for a true figure of what is required.

Does the light colored part of a shingle reflect that much heat to make that much of a differance in heat absorbance?Yes, the absorb a lot more heat when they are a darker color, but it also may have been a poor batch of shingles from the manufacturer for the darker colored portion. The possibility of a warranty claim is probably slim to none, due to the age and the inadequate intake ventilation, plus, you did not mention the exhaust ventilation.

Whose shingle products do the pro's use?The Shingle manufacturers most preferred by contractors, are;Certainteed, with the Landmarks being the most popularTamko, with the Heritage Series being the most popularGAF/Elk, which has recently merged, with the Timberline series from GAF being the previous more popular shingle, but the formerly called Prestique from Elk was also highly thought of. The Jury is stil out on product quality since the merger of the two lines of products.

I plan on replacing the shingles myself. I already added four 6 inch round vents to the underside to increase the venting area.A continuous larger slot cut underneath the soffit would be more advantageous, or the same effect can be achieved by instaling the Smart Vent, by DCI Products, which is a shingle over style Intake Ventilation product, which I use consistently to solve intake ventilation problems.

Is it necessary to remove the top flashing which is caulked against a brick wall and secured to the roof with nails and what appears to be a few screws?If the flashings are water-tight and there is enough room to slide the shingles in place, then they "May" be able to be reused. That is a judgement call, which would require an onsite inspection or a close up view of several photos.

It looks like I can pry the front part of flashing away from the old shingles to slip in new 15 lb felt and shingles and re-caulk where necessary. If its necessary to remove the flashing, then I don't think I could do it without damaging the flashing and will need to hire a handyman with a sheetmetal brake to form new flashing. I am trying to avoid both if possible.

Thanks Ed,
I was able to remove the flashing without too much damage. I worked in sheet metal for a few years and can straighten out the imperfections and re-use it. There were a few spots where water was able to get underneath, right at the drip edge. These areas did not look good so I decided to remove the plywood from the top and sides of the overhang which made it nessary to remove the flashing. I'll take a look at that Smart Vent by DCI Products. It sounds like just what I need.