Hi Crawlers, the cost for the Albert's tiki mug is set at $60 each. Check the list on page one to make sure you are there if you want one. If not just PM me here on Tiki Central or just post a message on this thread. Thank you all for letting me make the mug each year I truly love doing it. Wendy

I put my hand in this photo so you can judge size. It will shrink 10 percent in drying and firing.

Pinup photos of the five years of crawl mugs in order. 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.

In these photos I've wrapped cloth around the top that will be cut off.

I've already made 10 tweaks to the mug. I removed the deep groove next to the tikis face and I've fine tuned the face and body. Tomorrow we will mold this mug and I'll have more photos for you then.

Cheers, Wendy

Test glaze #1. Still need to work on highlighting the tiki.

Please email or PM me with orders. Thank you, Wendy

I had to use a calculator for the post times on facebook and then compare them to the PM times. This is as close as I can get them to your requests based on those times. If I screwed it up let me know and I'll change them. This is not set in stone yet!!!

OK MIke/Tiki Hula showed me how to see facebook times rather than posted x number of minutes ago. He said if I did that it would bump Brenda and Scott ahead of him. I love honesty.

Thank you very much.
This year I'm selling them the to everyone (attendees and out of town folks) and assigning numbers as the orders come in. So once it is made if you change your mind please let me know ASAP. I will not ship until after the crawl has ended.

Hi, I've been slow to starting this thread because I've had so much fun posting finished art to the Gallery page. But now I'd like to share Step by Step how I create my art. What is be missing from this thread will be the projects that I do for the Sacramento Crawl each year. If you go to the event page and choose that thread you will follow my progress to make the next ceramic for the 2011 crawl. Maybe you will want to come be part of a wonderful weekend in October.

Today 11/20/11 Sven (BigBroTiki) was on TV and so was my mug. It's on the top of his CD shelf next to the pole!

It gives me great pleasure to call Joniece Frank of Frankoma Pottery my friend. She and I have been enjoying each others love of clay for years now.

She sent me a precious gift. When Frankoma burnt to the ground in 1983 all of the master molds were destroyed. Every tiki mold gone.

Joniece Frank my friend.

As she went through the rubble she found an intact small tiki that had been saved and fired in the heat. She sent me that special tiki.

Years ago she gave me the copy write to the Frankoma Tiki line. That is why I did a sculpt that Gecko made into the ceramic war gods. This time with Joniece's blessing I have made a mold with my friend Mike L. and will in the future bring back the actual tiki salt & pepper and three tiki bowl. They will not have the same glaze or the name Frankoma on them. But they will be the tiki that survived the fire.

Here I will share the step to make a two piece mold.

Hey Vamp, Swizzle and Babalu, thank you for visiting here and commenting.

Step one: choose your materials for the box. Mike is a master mold maker with more than 25 years experience. He starts off by bending this metal into L shapes.
Next he puts them around the tiki to see how large a base he needs to cut out of wood.
He cuts the wood.
We make the bottom of the tiki flat by adding wet clay then we make a funnel shape of clay and attach it to the tiki. In the future this will be the opening where the slip is poured into the mold. The tiki is also secured to the wood bottom with clay.
In your mind decide how to divide the tiki into two halves so the mold will pull apart. No undercuts. Build clay up to that half way point all the way around.
Smooth the clay and make sure it's tight against the tiki.
Take a break, more tomorrow. Cheers, Wendy
Mike and Dan

Use a round object to make mold locks for fitting pieces together. this is a melon kitchen utensil.
Fit your sides around the wood bottom and strap tightly.
Use paper clamps to hold the sides together.
Press clay around the edges to make a firm seal with the sides.
Buy high grade mold plaster. Put on a face mask before opening the bag of plaster. It should be a face mask that filters microscopic particles. Add water and mix until it is like buttermilk.
Pour into your mold until it's at least 2 inches deep. Pour slowly to prevent air pockets. Tap the sides to help move air to the top.
Do not pour left over plaster down the drain it will harden somewhere down the pipes and will never break down. Also clean any tools you used for mixing right away. It's a lot of work to get it off later. As shown in this photo we learned the hard way. This is a mixing tool that attaches to a drill.
More photos soon, Wendy

Hi Wendy, just a couple of questions. I assume that the clay is wet when you pour the plaster over it, is that correct? I gather that the plaster doesn't stick to the clay. And also do you need to coat the sculpt/master with anything so that the plaster doesn't stick to that?

When you mix plaster you should wear an air mask. Plaster is activated by adding water, and it hardens by a catalyst, which is why it gets hot as it hardens. If you breathe in the plaster dust it can get in your lungs, harden, and cause breathing problems.

Thanks Grog, that's important information. I can't remember if Mike the Mold maker was wearing one or not. I wear a mask all the time when I sand or carve clay. MadDogMike, I'm looking forward to this project and so many more, thank you. Swizzle the clay is wet.

When the plaster has hardened about 45 minutes remove the sides.
Another good time for a face mask. Use a rasp to sand the edges.
Peal away the clay but leave the tiki in place.

Mold soap should have been used on the first side of the tiki but is wasn't so you'll see what happens by the end. Cover all the surfaces, plaster and tiki with three coats of mold soap.
When it dries wipe it down so the surface will be even and clump free.

Wendy Very Cool info, mahalo.. I like the way you cut the metal and form the sides around the base there.. I was having a hard time building up the clay around my piece where the part line is, having it out of the box looks so much easier to get the clay even and just where you want it..
Great point on the mask Grog, I gotta start thinking safer... I just get into a hurry sometimes..

The only soft clay that is not removed is at the base. It's for the opening used to pour in the slip.

This plaster is dense and will not break if you hammer hard to separate the halves for the first time.

Since we did not use mold soap on the little tiki before pouring the first half it stuck. We were very lucky that with some prying it came out.

Leave the mold open and let it dry out for a couple of days. Then secure with rubber bands or straps. Pour in the slip. For this small tiki I left the slip sit for 30 minutes then poured out the excess and let it sit over night. It can be opened sooner if it dries and pulls away from the sides.

My favorite tool for all things clay is a sticker remover. It cuts clay easily. I use it to smooth clay too. They can be ordered online in sets of 6.

As much as I would like to start some projects with this tiki I have others to finish first. As of yesterday I have contracted with Forbidden Island to produce my Tiki Crate mug and statue for their anniversary party in April 2011.
The molds have been produced by Gecko in Hawaii and will ship here Wednesday.
Nope that's not Gecko he's a friend.

I also am working on my Eat Drink and Be Merry mug which will be my next post on this thread. Every one of the mugs will be an artist proof with a different glaze. That is how I will learn about each glaze and under glaze. More photos soon, Wendy
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