How to Stencil Anything: 3 Secrets to Perfect Results Every Time

Learn how to stencil anything including metal and wood to create unique home decor. I’m sharing the 3 secrets you need to know to get perfect stencil lines every time.

This post was sponsored by I Like That Lamp. This project and all opinions are my own. This post also contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using those links, I may receive a small percentage at no additional cost to you. See my full disclosure here.

Stencils are such a fun way to add a graphic punch to a wall, bring an old floor to life, or create a beautiful wooden sign even if your handwriting is terrible. There is something almost magical about lifting up a stencil to reveal a perfect design underneath.

When I first started using stencils I definitely did not have such awesome results. It seemed like every time I lifted up the stencil, instead of seeing my perfect design, I saw lots of bleeding and extra smudges.

This really became a problem a few years ago when I was making wood signs to sell. I made custom stencils to add the wording but almost every time, I ended up with a ton of little imperfections. I ended up spending way too much time using tiny paintbrushes to touch up all of my mistakes. So frustrating!

I got to work figuring out how to stencil perfectly so I could stop wasting all of my time fixing problems. I discovered a few secrets that finally made it possible to get those perfectly crisp stencil lines I was after. These stencil hacks make the process so much simpler and the results are seriously perfection!

A few weeks ago, I Like That Lamp sent me an assortment of their new stencil designs and I was super excited to play around with them.

I seriously spent way too long deciding what to stencil and which stencils to use. And then I got started and I just kept finding more things to stencil! In the end I went a little stencil crazy and made three new projects using three of the stencils.

How to stencil anything perfectly

The first step of pretty much any project that involves paint is making sure the surface is clean and smooth. One of my projects involved stenciling an old galvanized planter so I made sure to give it a good scrub before trying to stencil anything. No matter what, paint won’t stick to oil, dirt, or dust.

Stencil Secret 1: The Adhesive

Now you’re ready to get your stencil in place. I used to use painter’s tape to hold my stencils in place but that really isn’t the greatest. It works okay for keeping thing from moving around, but it doesn’t do anything to prevent bleeding.

Now I use repositionable spray adhesive instead and it is amazing. You spray a light layer onto the back of your stencil and then set it in place. (If you want your wording centered, be sure to center the stencil. Also check that your words are straight.)

This works so well. The adhesive is strong enough to hold the stencil in place while you work, but it is super easy to remove when you are done. Even better, the entire stencil is firmly adhered to the surface so stray paint can’t creep under the plastic around your letters.

After you remove your stencil, there may be a very light residue left on the surface from the adhesive. This is easily wiped away with a baby wipe or damp paper towel. (In the picture above, I used painter’s tape in addition to the adhesive spray, but then I figured out it really isn’t needed.)

If you are stenciling something large like a wall or a floor, you typically won’t need to use spray adhesive, but it works really well for smaller, more detailed projects like stenciled signs.

Stencil Secret 2: The Paintbrush

The second secret is all about the brush. There are special stencil brushes out there and they work okay but I never had great luck with them. Sponge brushes were slightly better, but I found something that works even better.

Makeup sponges are the perfect tool for stenciling. I’m talking about the wedge shaped cosmetic spongesthat are super cheap. The sponge has a nice smooth texture that gives a great finish.

Just pour a little of your paint onto a paper plate or a plastic painter’s palette if you have one. Lightly dab the sponge into the paint.

The key is to get very little paint on the sponge. Extra paint will just squish under the stencil and make a mess. You can gently dab off any excess paint on your paper plate or a paper towel before stenciling.

When you start painting your stencil, gently dab the paint straight down onto the surface. DO NOT rub it back and forth as if you were using a paintbrush. This will definitely cause paint to squeeze under the stencil and make a mess. Just gently up and down.

You can use craft paints, leftover latex paint, chalk paint, pretty much anything will work.

Because you are only adding a very thin layer of paint at a time, there’s a good chance you are going to want to do a few coats to get good coverage, especially if you are painting with white paint over wood. Luckily because the paint is super thin, it dries pretty quickly.

one coat of paint, three coats of paint

Once you are done stenciling, it’s the moment of truth. I’ve got to be honest, after so many fails in the past, I still get nervous when it is time to peel the stencil off.

Yes! Just look at those lines! Beautiful!

But wait, aren’t we done? What’s the third secret?

Stencil Secret 3: The Hand-painted Look

When you are using stencils to make ‘hand-painted’ signs, there may be some times you don’t want it to look like you used a stencil.

Stencils have little connector lines that are a dead giveaway that you used a stencil. Sometimes these lines are so perfectly placed, it adds to the beauty of the finished product.

But occasionally you might want to ‘hide the evidence.’ If that’s the case, you are going to need a way to perfectly fill in those teeny tiny little gaps in the paint without ruining all of your hard work. The solution? Toothpicks.

Just take a toothpick and lightly dip it in your paint. Again, you really don’t want a ton of paint on there, so it’s a good idea to gently dab any excess off first. Then carefully use it like a paintbrush to fill in the letters. It’s easy and it works beautifully.

Thank you so much! I just tried the make-up sponge and it worked like a charm. I was so frustrated with my stencils and now I can play again. ☺ I just need to remember to be patient and do it in layers because it still bled a little when I used too much paint.

Thank you very much! Great tips, especially the makeup sponges and toothpicks. Do you remove the adhesive between uses? If not, how do you store them so that they don’t stick together or get dust in the adhesive?

Hi Denise. There are a few types of stencils, but they basically fall into two categories – reusable stencils and one-time use stencils. One-time use stencils are usually made from thin vinyl that sticks to the surface you are stenciling. After use, you peel off the stencil and it typically can’t be used again. Reusable stencils are made from slightly thicker plastic and can be cleaned and used over and over. If you are planning to make your own stencils using a cutting machine, you can buy reusable stencil material or use regular vinyl for one-time use stencils. If you are buying stencils that are already made, pretty much any stencil will work unless it specifically says it is just for one use.

Hi Elyse, great question! I would mostly use the same process, with a couple of changes. It would be a good idea to make a straight line with a piece of painter’s tape so you can make sure all of your letters end up straight. Then I would start with the middle letter of your name and place it in the center of where you will be stenciling. Working out from the middle will keep everything spaced evenly. Also be sure to let each letter dry before adding a letter next to it to avoid smudging the paint. Good luck!

Thank you for sharing your tips on stenciling. I have question about the stencils themselves. It seems they are so high priced, even on Ebay. Do you know of any websites that offer discount prices? Thank you so much.

Good question. Stencils can be pretty pricey – especially the large floor/wall stencils. Craft stores like Michaels do carry some smaller stencils and you can always use a coupon there to get a deal. And I have also found that smaller stencils in general are much more affordable. If you are stenciling a wall, you can use a small tile stencil rather than a huge stencil. It will be cheaper but take more work. Another option if you are buying a popular design is to pay for it upfront but then try to recoup some of your cost by selling it when you are finished.

It depends on the type of cardboard. If it has a slick, waxy finish to it, the adhesive should still help. If it is regular cardboard that feels more dry to the touch, I would probably skip the adhesive.

Hmm, what is the trouble? Is it smearing? I wouldn’t use adhesive on paper bags but would definitely use painter’s tape to hold the stencil in place. Also, be sure you are just using a very small amount of paint on your sponge or brush, even if that means doing a couple of coats of paint.

You could find someone with a Silhouette or Cricut cutting machine to cut a stencil using adhesive vinyl. If you don’t know anyone, you may be able to find someone to make a custom stencil on etsy or just by asking on facebook. Another option is to simply print or draw your design on regular paper and do a simple pencil transfer to transfer the design to the boat for painting. I have a post that describes it in detail but it is super easy – https://www.lovelyetc.com/how-to-easily-transfer-lettering-and-designs-onto-any-surface/ Good luck!

I have cut all my stencils apart, then separated and labeled them. Does anyone else have trouble using stencils from a full sheet? I also can’t do this if I can’t see through to line things up. I hope I did not ruine my stencil collection. I find it easier to store them also, they can all fit in one box, not tale up so much room. I put them in zip lock bags and labeled them w a sharpie. Any better ideas to store and save room?

This sounds like a great system! I often trim my stencils to make it easier to place them for painting. I like to store my smaller stencils in a drawer in a spare dresser and I hang my larger, wall stencils from pants hangers in our coat closet. :) I don’t know if that is the best way but it works well for me!

Hi, Do you use anything once you’re finished to protect the paint? I’m going to attempt making a wood sign for all of our little campground stickers we collect. I’ll be staining the wood, then stenciling some cute “camping” stencils I got! Not sure if I should use a clear coat of something when I’m finished?

That sounds like such a cute idea. I generally do not use anything to protect decorative signs. Most decor doesn’t receive the wear and tear that furniture does. If it is going to be used outdoors, I would use a topcoat just to protect it from weathering, otherwise, I wouldn’t worry about it.

I have acrylic paint and then bought stencil paint. Which is better to use. I have been working on Halloween signs for weeks. It has a lot of words and a big witch. I would get one thing to look good, then something else would be smeard.

I am sorry you are having trouble with smearing! Either paint should work. Stencil paints are generally thicker to help keep them from seeping underneath the stencil. But acrylic craft paints also work well because they stick to most surfaces and dry quickly. Personally, I prefer the acrylic paint because it dries faster but that is just my personal preference.

Hi Carrie! First time on your blog and i have subscribed so i’m looking forward to your DIY’s. This one about the stencil hacks really has helped. i knew about the adhesive but not the make up sponges and the toothpicks. Thank you!

Hi there. Thanks for the tips! Question. I just watched you pain the woods. What kind of paint did you use? I tried to read the bottle but it wasn’t at a good angle. Chalk paint? Chalk ink? I know the ink is permanent…Thanks!

My adhesive says to wait 3 hours to dry-do I really have to wait that long? I cannot wait to try all your tips-I was in tears looking at all my failed signs that looked like a toddler painted them so this was such a blessing to find! Thank you!

I’m glad it is helpful! Make sure you are using repositionable adhesive. You should only need to wait a moment or two before stenciling. If it says to wait three hours that is probably until it is fully adhered. We don’t want our stencils to truly adhere – just to stick enough not to move around while we’re painting. Good luck!

I am not one to comment. But, for the first time, I have found useful information. Thank you so much for sharing your tips, especially the one about using a makeup sponge. I had one I never used (the egg-shaped kind), and it worked PERFECTLY! My kitchen cabinets look beautiful, and I was done in less than half the time I thought it would take and with absolutely no bleed-through or any kind of a mess. Thank you again.

What do you recommend for making your own stencils? I hear the cricut and other similar options are all difficult to learn, expensive, and or not practical for larger stencils. Do you have any personal experience or something you can vouch for? I want to get a large format plotter but I keep seeing them for sale online listed as “for parts” not very encouraging.

Cricuit and Silhouette both work well for this, but you are right – they are expensive and you are limited as far as size. I used to have a Silhouette and made a lot of stencils with it that worked well – usually in 12×24′ size. But I since sold my Silhouette because I didn’t use it enough to justify the cost. I have also made stencils by hand using thin plastic and an exacto knife. I wouldn’t recommend this unless you only want to make one stencil because it takes a lot of time. I’m sorry I don’t have a great suggestion. This is something I also looked into quite a bit and I never found a great solution.

Thank you for these stenciling hints! I have stenciled for years and have several vintage stencils that I plan to dig out again! I especially wanted to say how much I LOVE your logo! So creative and cute. Thanks again…happy painting :)

I had a problem stenciling with acrylic on top of Rust Oleum on aluminum. There was a lot of glue residue and I couldn’t wipe it off without also removing the acrylic stenciled lettering. Any suggestions?

Hmmm, it’s really hard to say what the cause was – paint and glues can be affected by many things including temperature, humidity, the type of paint, residues, etc. I’m sorry that happened to your project.I have used temporary spray adhesive on tons of projects with no problem but had something similar happen one time. I couldn’t figure out what the problem was either, so I cleaned the whole thing off well and re-stenciled it without the adhesive. Good luck!

If you are using an oil based stain and poly and then stenciling on top of that with a water based paint, how would you seal it? I am wanting to make something for my kitchen and don’t want the paint to scratch off after working so hard on it.

Hi Jennifer, If this were me, I would use General Finishes High Performance top coat over both the stain and paint instead of using oil-based poly. That is what I did for this stool that has both oil-based stand and water-based paint: https://www.lovelyetc.com/making-an-ikea-step-stool-pretty/ If you have already done the stain and poly, you should still be able to use the general finishes top coat as long as you wait at least 72 hours after applying the oil-based products. Good luck!

These are great tips for stenciling! I’m making my own scrabble tiles for my wall and am a first-time stencil user. My test letter was smudged and bled. Then I found your tips. I’m having great results now! Thank you so much!

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