Because there's a lot more weight on the drivers side (driver, transfer, battery, spare tyre ect) and also the torque reaction of the diff compresses the driver side rear.

In terms of brands I'd probably look at EFS. No matter the brand I'd go for leafs with slipper pads (little plastic spacers at the end of each leaf) as they make a very impressive difference to the ride.

I wouldn't worry about the LWB spring unless you're planning to run mega loads. It's an extra short and stiff spring to give a vertical shackle angle when loaded. I'd look at the 65mm efs rears, they're long and more suited to comfort and offroad performance.

Too short for it to flex at all but perfect for ruf up frontStick with normal lifted springs, the lwb ones are for 300kg+ in the rear. If you find the efs 65mm inverts the shackles in the rear with a load on then you will need to run a longer shackle to prevent it from doing so but thats simple enough

Thanks everyone for your input. Still undecided on whether to go a heavier spring to eliminate the inverting issue or just go with the 65mm comfort springs which are a constant 60kg load which should ride good , but i'm afraid that when I load her up they will invert ahah I will NOT add extended shackles to stop the springs iverting as thats a cheap and nasty way to fix the issue of springs that arent suitable for The weight of the car. I still have a few more calls to make but I wouldn't mind like a constant 120kg 65mm spring.

Its the length that makes them invert not the load rating.Long spring (efs 65mm) in lwb will invert when flexedHd lwb spring wont invert but will ride terrible and flex poorly.So you either add slightly (re-25mm) longer shackle and have flex and comfort or fit a shorter spring from another brand or the hd option.Thats the long and short of it

The front spring hanger is different to the swb i think this slight angle change coupled with the extra overhang on the lwb forces the inversion. Point to point is the same as swb.Standard suzuki issue lwb rear is the same length as efs hd lwb. Efs are the only company that make the spring as per factory length lwb rear.

What springs did you have in your lwb?? I read a post from early last year and you said and I quote "i run the efs 65mm with the load leave removed and I carried 300kg no worries" and when the other fella asked about ride you said I quote "could have done it with the load leaf in but I only drive it a few times a year.

No i ran 65mm normal efs with 2" shacklesWith the hd lwb pack your shackle angle will look like this /The 65mm regular lifted angle will look like this \ and is better for ride quality and flex with measured shocks

Alright I understand now but why is it so hard for them to make a h/duty springs the right length.. All vehicle's with a lift or not should have the shackle back just past verticle to allow for suspension movement. Iv'e ruled out the comfort 65mm springs, so I only have the h/duty really left to choose from. My next question is if I go back to a 50mm lifted springs either ome or efs with lets say a constant load of 120kg and a bullbar front springs, those are shorter then the standard 65mm kit but are they still to long to invert with a load..

Any of the other springs will work, old man emu, ironman, king, ect... these are just 50mm and a shorter spring.The 65mm has more arc therefor more length hence inverting. The ideal shackle angle is 45* for comfort and flex. A straight up and down shackle will give the worst ride imaginable. No one really does suspension kits for comfort and flex in a sierra theres not enough of them for anyone to put in the time. Once you have a basic understanding of the workings of the susp you get that the more angle you put on the shackle the more droop it can offer when it moves forward. Getting the right combo takes trial and error. Ive played around alot with that stuff over the years.Another option is to drill the front mount hole on the spring mount 10mm (at a guess) toward the front thus changing shackle angle and preventing inverting.

Are you picking up why I said less lift is better now SuziKing? The spring length, location of the spring mounts and shackle lengths are all engineered from the factory for the stock ride height. Trying to achieve acceptable travel and ride at a higher static height is always going to be a compromise. It's why many of us run and advocate RUF - the longer rear spring when used in the front permits more travel at a lower rate than it's physically possible to achieve with a lifted front spring.

Just to be clear, OME (wisely) don't advertise 2" of lift. They "suggest" 45mm, and I know that sounds like splitting hairs, it's an important distinction. A spring advertised for a lift height is engineered to deliver that spring height primarily. Other functions of the spring (like travel or ride) are secondary. Lift height, in my opinion, is secondary to ride and travel because lift height makes everything about the car worse, whereas improved ride and travel make the whole car feel better.

The stock springs take the stock shackles to the edge of inversion when fully compressed. That means the new spring can't be significantly longer or longer shackles or a revised shackle hanger position is required The stock springs take the stock shocks to full extension when fully drooped. So, if you want 2" of lift with a spring (that must be) close to stock length then it must have significant camber and maintain that camber when laden, however, it must not have so much camber that it damages the shocks when fully drooped.

The front of a stock sierra has 5" of travel. That's 2" of compression and 3" of droop at ride height. If you want 2" of lift, you're now driving around with 4" of compression and 1" of droop. This results in a vertical shackle and a harsh ride as when the wheel droops into a hole it can only droop 1" and then it tops the shock out, yanks the body down and feels choppy.

I have over 20 years of experience working on Sierra suspension. It was not without plenty of trial and error I've worked out that less lift is better, or you're on a slippery slope of custom work and fabrication. If you want 65mm (or even exactly ANY lift figure) then go for your life, you (now) know where the compromises are. If you want your suspension to work properly, you hopefully also now realise the right answer might be some custom work or less than 50mm of lift.

I like OME springs because they have the softest ride and ample travel. I don't care what "advertised" lift they provide, suspension lift isn't relevant to anything except high speed where maximum compression travel is required. I'm currently building my car lower than stock height in the suspension.

I will NOT add extended shackles to stop the springs iverting as thats a cheap and nasty way to fix the issue of springs that arent suitable for The weight of the car. I still have a few more calls to make but I wouldn't mind like a constant 120kg 65mm spring.

It has nothing to do with weight. It’s about shackle angle due to the length of the spring. Running longer shackles to get the right angle is not dodgy or a nasty fix by any means.

Think of it this way as a very broad statement. The longer the spring the more comfortable the ride and the more flex that is possible.

So imo running a longer spring with extended shackles at the correct angle is not a nasty fix dodgy, but running a 3 inch lifted spring on stock shackles at the wrong angle and inversion issues is.

As you plan to carry load occasionally all you really have to do is not remove the load spring like most people do to gain comfort.

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