Monday, April 14, 2014

'Fiddich Fever: Glenfiddich 14 year old Rich Oak

The first of the three 'Fiddich friends: the 14 year old Rich Oak.

The words "Rich Oak" often bring to mind thoughts of craft whiskies that have been aggressively overoaked in small barrels. My hope was that this wasn't a failed-experiment-type of release by Glenfiddich. You know, something they screwed up but made so much of it that they had to release it (such as this more expensive whisky). Their Rich Oak hasn't yet made it to the US, where big oak is often appreciated more by bourbon fans than single malt fanatics, but I was able to buy a sample of it through Master of Malt.

To find out what Glenfiddich meant by "Rich Oak", I went to their official UK site that has a page dedicated to it. You can go there if you like; there are moody photos and a gauzy video. You'll discover that the whisky spent its first fourteen years in a mix of previously used American and Spanish oak casks and then is finished in a different mix of new, virgin American and Spanish oak casks for twelve weeks. There are also a bunch of vague tasting notes about vanilla, "fruit", "oak", and "spice". Let's see if I can whip up something more specific.

Maturation/Age: 14 years in ex-bourbon American and ex-oloroso sherry Spanish oak casks, then another 12 weeks in a mix of virgin American and and Spanish oak casks

Alcohol by Volume: 40%

Colored? Yes

Chillfiltered? Yes

The color is a medium gold. On the nose, that "oak" is more toasty smelling than charred. The "fruits" are fresh white fruits, specifically golden delicious apples, pears, and green grapes. But mostly pears. In fact there's also a strong note of baked pear in caramel sauce. Also, floral perfume, oats, and hints of menthol. The palate is surprisingly malty and drier than I had expected. There's some subtle vanilla, a hint of tree bark, dry grass, toasted almonds, and a pleasant bitterness. It's all very mellow. There's some plain caramel and vanilla notes in the finish. Some fresh apricot, along with the floral note from the nose. Some nuts and grains in the mix.

I only tried it neatly because at 40%ABV, it's already so watered down. The whisky would be much more interesting if Glenfiddich did more of a crafty presentation of it, bottling it at 46%, un-colored and un-chillfiltered. It seemed like there were more cereal notes and possibly some farmy ones hidden beneath the water, but we'll never know.

As it is, it's not bad. It's a tiny step above the 12 year. That pear note seems to show up in every Glenfiddich I've had, which I always like as a sort of signature characteristic. The 14 year isn't as sweet as the official tasting notes would lead one to believe and it's actually almost spice-free when comparing it to bourbons and ryes which spend their entire lives in new oak. Those are not criticisms at all. To me, those are good things. The malt hasn't been suffocated away.

If you're trying to buy it from Europe it can get prohibitively expensive thanks to shipping. A cheaper option may be a Duty Free store if you're traveling internationally. For those folks living in Europe, the 14 is priced about the same as the 15, about a 30% markup over the 12. I wouldn't say it's 30% better, but it's unique enough to provide a different experience.

Availability - Europe and Travel Retail only

Pricing - If in Europe: $50-$60; For US folks (w/international shipping): $65-$75

The Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams is similar to the Rich Oak that you might want to try that one if you are willing to pay a premium price. Brian Kinsman chose a mix of 14 to 16 year old Glenfiddich which was also finished in new oak for 12 weeks. The virgin oak barrels were called Cask of Dreams because the 11 barrels were sent to 11 US cities and people were given the chance to sign the outside. Yeah, marketing departments are wonderful.

Yeah, a couple years ago this corner liquor store in my neighborhood was trying to get rid of Glen Garioch 10yo (stag label) for $16.99 and it took them a while. I helped as much as I could.

On this note, I just opened a bottle of Trader Joe's Highland Single Malt 10yo, $20. The first impression is quite positive! Not a world beater but certainly a pleasant sipper. I noticed a few months ago that the color got appealingly pale - they used to be sickeningly dark. It has a surprisingly heavy, oily body for 40% abv; nose and taste malty and fruity, with a dash of lemon oil; medium finish (some caramel bitterness). It likes air. No identifying elements on the label; my bottle code is something like L13V354 5 (December 2013? Consistent with the purchase date.) If I had to guess a distillery I'd say Glen Garioch; could be Clynelish but that would be unlike Diageo's mo.

How is the GG 10yo stag label? I've seen it around. I used to love the old 15yo.

Interesting that TJs may have changed their single malt. By labeling it "Highland Single Malt" I guess that allows them the freedom to do so. Part of the reason I never went for the previous version was because it was so dark, as you mentioned. It announced e150a. The only other Highlander possibilities I can think of is un-sherried Dalmore (there used to be a TJ's Dalmore once upon a time) or Teaninich, big ol' whisky factories.

I had a bottle of the dark TJ 10yo and it was undrinkable - I stayed away from it ever since, until now. This one is much better. I don't know how unsherried Dalmore tastes like; based on my limited experience it doesn't taste like Teaninich - I like Teaninich, by the way. The mouthfeel is distinctive in this TJ, and this is a signature of the whisky, rather than of the barrels - especially since it's so thick and oily at only 40%. That's why Clynelish and Glen Garioch come to mind. Of course, it could be 20 other distilleries, if they are being coy and it's in fact a Speyside. Plenty of other Highland possibilities as well, more remote based on taste and/or market reality: Old Pulteney, Glenmorangie, Glen Ord, Dalwhinnie, Tomatin...

I'm glad I stayed away from the old one then. This new one sounds more like my style. Could be Glen Garioch. The Clynelish indies have almost vanished, but it's possible that some casks roll out into the wild via blender swapping and then can only be released without the name attached. In any case, good catch by Alexander Murray and Co.

I just noticed today at BevMo the US exclusive Glenfiddich 14 year old Bourbon Barrel Reserve. It's not a US version of Toasted Oak though. From the description on the label, the whisky spent 14 years in used bourbon barrels and then finished in new oak. The weird thing is that it appears to be priced at $50 plus making it more expensive than the 15. But BevMo had the bottles on sale for $47.99 so I might pick up a bottle to try,

Well, I decided to grab a bottle since the BevMo price is normally $55. This is a very sweet Glenfiddich thankfully (almost bourbon sweet). The new oak finish appears to have upped the vanilla sweetness but did not add any bitter wood notes. The problem is that this Glenfiddich is still a bit thin texture-wise despite being bottled at 43%.