Monique Lhuillier

New mother Monique Lhuillier designed her fall collection, she said, in a "nesting phase," and though the show didn't move her aesthetic forward, it was good to see the L.A. native feeling at home in the tents, effectively displaying her strengths.

Lhuillier loves the nightlife, especially if there's a red carpet involved, and her gowns, as usual, were award-show friendly. A black, re-embroidered lace sheath with an exaggerated collar framing the face was a definite entrance-maker. Tulle shrugs hovered at the shoulders of dresses like puffs of smoke, and a blue corseted trumpet gown with Juliet sleeves had a Cinderella-at-the-ball prettiness. Soft makeup and upswept hair added to the glamorous effect.

The accessories were another story: The less said about the "jewel-on-a-tulle" necklaces the better. Day silhouettes, which included swing coats and bell-sleeve jackets, may well have achieved the "more covered-up look" Lhuillier was after, but there was no hiding their vintage-style heaviness. It would also be nice if the designer traded the sixties for another decade next season. But daywear isn't what people come to Lhuillier for; it's her special way with a gown that keeps them lining up for more.