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La Place Jemaa el Fna, the vast market square in the medina, the old — and by far the most interesting — part of the city.

I heard about it every time I looked lost (which was pretty much all the time) in the medina. Friendly locals would point the way.

Easier to get into than out of. To orient yourself, take note of which of the narrow streets spits you out. That’s the way you need to go back if you ever want to find where you’re staying.

Lots going on and lots of cafés with roof-top terraces where you can sip mint-tea and watch the constant throng of people, the merchants selling everything from silver to bulk spices to Hello Kitty cellphones, and, at night, row upon row of food stalls. Also snake-charmers, but they’re easy to avoid. Listen for the sound of pipes and drums (no, it’s nothing like the 48th Highlanders’ regimental band) and give it a wide berth.

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Food and drink are cheap, and, once you’ve become a shameless haggler, so is much of the merchandise. Great souvenirs.

I like it because all human life is here. And a bit of reptilian, too. Thank heavens for a telephoto lens . . . .

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