Save peaches for when winter comes

Published: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 at 4:30 a.m.

Last Modified: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 at 11:03 a.m.

As regular readers might have noticed, I am more than just partial to local and seasonal produce — I adore it.

Since the summer months seem to fly by so quickly (it's already mid-July!), it is important to stuff yourself silly with local fruits and veggies while you can. If you find that you have already over-peached yourself for the summer and can't imagine eating one more piece of juicy deliciousness, remember that during those long winter months, a tasty peach might be just what you'll need. Therefore, preservation is key.

Dried fruit is more easily stored than many other preserved foods and has many uses. Dried fruit is a great addition to granola, can be stirred into warm oatmeal, reconstituted for dumplings and pies or eaten as a snack.

Before any type of drying, the fruit should be pitted, peeled and thinly sliced. The thinner the slices, the more quickly they will dry. The thicknesses should be as uniform as possible so they dry evenly. If your knife skills are questionable, the best way to ensure even thickness of slicing is to use a handheld mandoline or Japanese mandoline. Most have interchangeable blades and adjustable thicknesses.

Before drying, fruits should be blanched or dipped in a solution to prevent browning. Dissolving a few crushed vitamin C tablets in water will do the job. For a slightly sweeter dried fruit, bring equal parts sugar and honey to a simmer with three parts water. When slightly cooled, dip the fruit in the solution and shake off any excess.

A fruit drying rack can be made from several types of material. If using the filters-and-fan method, I suggest two racks per batch. Clean plastic screen, such as window screening, can pulled tightly across picture frames, window frames or even embroidery hoops. Metal screening can be used but should be covered with a 100 percent cotton sheet or double/triple layers of cheese cloth. Metal/wire racks usually used for cooling baked goods can also be used, but often the grates are too large to dry smaller items. Drying racks and screens can also be purchased commercially.

There are four easy ways to dry fruit, herbs and vegetables. For each method, the fruit should be arranged on the racks, leaving space between each slice to ensure air circulation. After ¾ of the drying time, check the fruit: It should be dry but pliable and leathery.

The first and oldest method is sun-drying. Set the tray in the sun for two to four days, depending on weather, humidity and the thickness and moisture content of the fruit. Bring the fruit inside at night or when it rains.

The next method is oven-drying and can only be accomplished if your oven can be turned down to between 145 and 165 degrees. (Some newer ovens will only go as low as 175 degrees.) Keep in mind that plastic racks should not be used in the oven. Fruit-lined racks are placed in the oven with the door propped open by something such as a wooden spoon to allow moisture to escape. The fruit should dry in six to eight hours, or as long as 12 hours, depending on the fruit, temperature and type of oven. After six hours, check random slices for doneness.

The next method is my favorite way to dry fruits, veggies and herbs. You will need a box fan, two chairs and two new furnace or air conditioner filters. Balance the box fan, pointing upward, between the two inward-facing chairs. Place a fruit-lined rack on a filter, stack an empty filter on top and strap to a box fan. Allow the fan to blow on low overnight. Check for doneness and continue drying as needed.

The last method is, of course, the commercial food dehydrator. I can not endorse any specific dehydrator, having had little luck with them in the past.

Rustic Peach and Almond Pies

12 ounces dried peaches

¾ cup brandy or amaretto

3 tablespoons almond paste

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 lemon, zested and juiced

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup brown sugar

1 (9-inch) pie crust

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces

1 cup peach or apricot preserves

½ cup slivered or sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 to 3 baking sheets with a Silpat liner or parchment paper.

In a small bowl, cover the dried peaches with brandy or amaretto. Microwave for 30 seconds and set aside for 10 minutes. Once the peaches have plumped, remove them from any excess liquid, reserving liquid.

In a large mixing bowl, stir together peaches, cornstarch, zest, juice, cinnamon, salt and sugar in a large bowl.

Divide crusts into 6 pieces and roll them into roughly 5-inch circles. Transfer one circle to the prepared baking sheet.

Use your fingers to pat the almond paste into a flat disk. Place 2 teaspoons of almond paste in the center of the dough circle. Spoon a little of the peach mixture onto center of dough, leaving a 1-inch border around edge.

Fold the edge of dough over 1 inch of the peach mixture, pleating the dough. Dot filling with butter pieces.

In a small bowl, microwave the peach jam and reserved soaking liquid in 15-second increments until melted. Brush the edges of the crust with the jam, and sprinkle with almonds. Repeat with remaining pies.

Bake until filling is bubbling and pastry is golden, about 20 minutes.

<p>As regular readers might have noticed, I am more than just partial to local and seasonal produce — I adore it. </p><p>Since the summer months seem to fly by so quickly (it's already mid-July!), it is important to stuff yourself silly with local fruits and veggies while you can. If you find that you have already over-peached yourself for the summer and can't imagine eating one more piece of juicy deliciousness, remember that during those long winter months, a tasty peach might be just what you'll need. Therefore, preservation is key.</p><p>Dried fruit is more easily stored than many other preserved foods and has many uses. Dried fruit is a great addition to granola, can be stirred into warm oatmeal, reconstituted for dumplings and pies or eaten as a snack.</p><p>Before any type of drying, the fruit should be pitted, peeled and thinly sliced. The thinner the slices, the more quickly they will dry. The thicknesses should be as uniform as possible so they dry evenly. If your knife skills are questionable, the best way to ensure even thickness of slicing is to use a handheld mandoline or Japanese mandoline. Most have interchangeable blades and adjustable thicknesses.</p><p>Before drying, fruits should be blanched or dipped in a solution to prevent browning. Dissolving a few crushed vitamin C tablets in water will do the job. For a slightly sweeter dried fruit, bring equal parts sugar and honey to a simmer with three parts water. When slightly cooled, dip the fruit in the solution and shake off any excess. </p><p>A fruit drying rack can be made from several types of material. If using the filters-and-fan method, I suggest two racks per batch. Clean plastic screen, such as window screening, can pulled tightly across picture frames, window frames or even embroidery hoops. Metal screening can be used but should be covered with a 100 percent cotton sheet or double/triple layers of cheese cloth. Metal/wire racks usually used for cooling baked goods can also be used, but often the grates are too large to dry smaller items. Drying racks and screens can also be purchased commercially.</p><p>There are four easy ways to dry fruit, herbs and vegetables. For each method, the fruit should be arranged on the racks, leaving space between each slice to ensure air circulation. After ¾ of the drying time, check the fruit: It should be dry but pliable and leathery.</p><p>The first and oldest method is sun-drying. Set the tray in the sun for two to four days, depending on weather, humidity and the thickness and moisture content of the fruit. Bring the fruit inside at night or when it rains. </p><p>The next method is oven-drying and can only be accomplished if your oven can be turned down to between 145 and 165 degrees. (Some newer ovens will only go as low as 175 degrees.) Keep in mind that plastic racks should not be used in the oven. Fruit-lined racks are placed in the oven with the door propped open by something such as a wooden spoon to allow moisture to escape. The fruit should dry in six to eight hours, or as long as 12 hours, depending on the fruit, temperature and type of oven. After six hours, check random slices for doneness. </p><p>The next method is my favorite way to dry fruits, veggies and herbs. You will need a box fan, two chairs and two new furnace or air conditioner filters. Balance the box fan, pointing upward, between the two inward-facing chairs. Place a fruit-lined rack on a filter, stack an empty filter on top and strap to a box fan. Allow the fan to blow on low overnight. Check for doneness and continue drying as needed.</p><p>The last method is, of course, the commercial food dehydrator. I can not endorse any specific dehydrator, having had little luck with them in the past.</p><p>Rustic Peach and Almond Pies</p><p>12 ounces dried peaches</p><p>¾ cup brandy or amaretto</p><p>3 tablespoons almond paste</p><p>3 tablespoons cornstarch</p><p>1 lemon, zested and juiced</p><p>¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon</p><p>¼ teaspoon kosher salt</p><p>½ cup brown sugar</p><p>1 (9-inch) pie crust</p><p>3 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces</p><p>1 cup peach or apricot preserves</p><p>½ cup slivered or sliced almonds</p><p>Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 to 3 baking sheets with a Silpat liner or parchment paper.</p><p>In a small bowl, cover the dried peaches with brandy or amaretto. Microwave for 30 seconds and set aside for 10 minutes. Once the peaches have plumped, remove them from any excess liquid, reserving liquid.</p><p>In a large mixing bowl, stir together peaches, cornstarch, zest, juice, cinnamon, salt and sugar in a large bowl. </p><p>Divide crusts into 6 pieces and roll them into roughly 5-inch circles. Transfer one circle to the prepared baking sheet.</p><p>Use your fingers to pat the almond paste into a flat disk. Place 2 teaspoons of almond paste in the center of the dough circle. Spoon a little of the peach mixture onto center of dough, leaving a 1-inch border around edge. </p><p>Fold the edge of dough over 1 inch of the peach mixture, pleating the dough. Dot filling with butter pieces. </p><p>In a small bowl, microwave the peach jam and reserved soaking liquid in 15-second increments until melted. Brush the edges of the crust with the jam, and sprinkle with almonds. Repeat with remaining pies.</p><p>Bake until filling is bubbling and pastry is golden, about 20 minutes.</p><p>Reach Season Stepp at Season28@aol.com.</p>