....A TWIN CONICLE ROCKET HEATER.

Hi, I am in the prosess of edditing picks and videos of this build and want to get it spot-on.Im sorry it has taken some time but ..just to get your curiosity up and running,i will post some videos/picks.

Creating a spinning vortex before the riser, creating a free flowing movement. A better mixing of the "secondary" air Helping to hold a higher temperature, maintaining good incineration of gasses when running a slower burn time.

For example : To tune a "Cars Engine" one of the first things to tune is the exhaust ..the cast manifold is replaced with a free flowing branch exhaust manifold and a bigger bore exhaust pipe ..Inlet and exhaust valves are bigger polished and ported.

..So My idea is to build it as tho it where the tuned throttle body of a car engine. The free flowing vortex cone before the riser helps with the ignition of gasses through into the riser. The secondary combustion is very clean producing a very efficient slow burning fire.

Greetings from Down Under'My understanding is that stainless steel, is no more reflective when red hot than mild steel or cast iron. The right refractory used to cast the arch,in a 4.5 megawatt boiler on the other hand stands 1000 deg C plus for five years or more. Cast iron rich in nickel used in the grate just beyond the arch where the coal is burning fiercely lasts one or two years only.High quality refractory is the way to go for a burner that is meant last more the one seasons heating.Metal is the way to go for a quick and dirty prototype.Question.Why can't I see the videos. The notice that comes up says they are private. Just another thing about modern tech that has me puzzled.

Part of the issue with not being able to view videos may be your internet browser.I had the same issue and had to go download adobe flash in order to view them.

You have to be a darn computer tech these days to stay on top of how to use the browsers.Most folks are resigned to taking their systems to a computer service tech.The day I had to pay fifty bucks for a half an hour for them to install an operating system on my first hand built pc I learned how to do that to.You can pretty much find an answer to just about any question these days by going to youtube and typing in your issue in a question format.

Greetings from Down Under'My understanding is that stainless steel, is no more reflective when red hot than mild steel or cast iron. The right refractory used to cast the arch,in a 4.5 megawatt boiler on the other hand stands 1000 deg C plus for five years or more. Cast iron rich in nickel used in the grate just beyond the arch where the coal is burning fiercely lasts one or two years only.High quality refractory is the way to go for a burner that is meant last more the one seasons heating.Metal is the way to go for a quick and dirty prototype.Question.Why can't I see the videos. The notice that comes up says they are private. Just another thing about modern tech that has me puzzled.

.Hi Bluff, ..Hi everyone, just back from my holidays and seems like I have some catching up to do.. Bluff, my answer to your question is. The reason we light a fire is to extract the heat. And we need to do that in the most efficient way. This build was intended to explain and show you how to burn wood the most effective way. Bluff, the burning of wood or any combustible for that matter at full throttle will make the internals glow red hot and then start to burn the steel out, and yes it's not going last you long if you run your stove at a constant 800 to 1000c.. But this build remains between 350c to 450c this stove will not be running RED hot as you say But runs without smoke and all the wood gasses are re burnt with little wood used.

Look at the thickness of the riser! it's 15mm very thick the thin stainless steel liner about 1.5mm it is there to be heated and remains hot around 450c this is a good zone, this thin liner is needed because the steel riser is too thick and will draw away the heat.. "But this is cooling of the 15mm pipe is needed when the heat falls on the outside of this "The" riser and then out the flue. Q: Now how do you take advantage of the fuel and air mix created before the riser. ;)

ive got no idea other than really too amp its temperature even higher with the mix to get a much cleaner burn on a system

Hi Everyone, ..Hi gadily, I make wood burners for a living, I have been very busy with my business and, sorry I have not had time to come and chat with you all, I will try to catch up where I left off.. I remember I was trying to explain and at the same time trying get you all thinking. .. everyone found that it was important to create a spinning vortex going up the riser, sucking spinning gasses up the riser trying to create and with success a complete burn. Although there may be no smoke coming from your chimney what about the smell, this is just as annoying as the smoke.

The temperatures.

All gasses burn, and burn "off" at different temperatures, most importantly this is down to the air mixture and where it is introduced in the burn.As primary air is introduced to the burning wood the fire gives off heat and gas, as the heat increases so does the need for space, as the heat increases and expands the oxygen is soon depleted. This is where we add the secondary air.

You are all thinking ..tell us something we don't know :)

I have spent many years working and testing the effect of secondary air and the effects it has, introducing it at different points and at different temperatures.

I found that if the vortex was created "before" it entered the riser! and also the secondary air was added pre riser vortex the temps where around 1000c +But i wanted the temps to be around the 400c to 600c as this was the best zone, otherwise i was going burnout the steel.. so,for clean burning i found if i added "COLD" air to the secondary burn pre riser, the burn was cooler around the 450c and using less wood with almost no primary air, ..(more oxygen in cold air?) re-burning gasses. adding more primary air would send the riser into meltdown. adding cool air to a spinning vortex "before" the riser is most important. "The hottest part of a blow lamp is the end of the gas tip" I hope this has been interesting read: Regards Bob.