Tag: Used Cars To Buy in I Want To Sell My Car Online

Fourways I Want To Sell My Car Online blame it on the increasing price tags of brand new cars or the brutal depreciation hit in the initial years; more and more potential buyers are having second thoughts about buying new cars for sale. Even though purchasing sacardeals.co.zaused cars for sale offer a varied array of benefits, it is always a gamble of your luck. And with the increasing incidents of dealership scams or marketing ploys, it is easy to fall into a lemon trap. Want to save yourself from the buyer’s remorse; then you should arm yourself with all the right information and tactics to find the best deal in the second-hand auto sales market. Below listed are some essential tips you need to follow before buying used cars for sale.

Research in detail: You may also seek recommendations or research online about the reputed dealerships in your locality. After narrowing down the choices to a handful, you can check out their website and explore their inventory in depth. For instance, if you have decided a specific car model to buy or sell, then online research is the best method to find the best deals in market. Let us say you are planning to buy used Chevy Tahoe SUV; checking out the consumer reviews on the make and model will help you figure out the possible defects or common problems with the specific model.

Ramey Chevrolet I Want To Sell My Car Online

Be prepared with a set of questions: If you have decided on the dealership and the car model, then the next step is to prepare a set of questions. Visit the dealership in person or contact them through email or phone calls to find more information about the potential car model for sale. You may enquire about the reason for sale, mileage of the vehicle, number of owners and more. Is there a salvage title? Do you have all the records? Have there been any major repairs? Is it a trade in? You can add more questions to the list for collecting more details about the used Chevy Tahoe for sale.

Checking the documents and inspecting the car: Ask the vehicle history report and maintenance logs of the car. It will give you a detailed insight on title problems, service records, accidents, major repairs and more. Visit the dealership or auto store to check the vehicle in person. Make sure to examine the exteriors and interiors of the car carefully. Open the hood and take a good look at the engine too. Dents, rusted parts, leaking oil and peeling off paint are some of the warning signs of a lemon car. It is always recommended to hire the services of an experienced professional to get the car inspected thoroughly.

Test drive: Last but not the least, take the car for a test drive on both local and highway roads. Test driving the car on different road conditions can give you a better idea about how the car performs and responds. Make sure to keep your eyes and ear open during the test drive.

Following the above-mentioned tips help you in navigating through the pre-owned car buying process seamlessly.

No matter what your travel needs may be, Hertz Car Rental has a variety of vehicles to get you to your destination...

Fourways Branches have I Want To Sell My Car Online Section

Buying a used car makes a lot of sense for buyers around the world for various reasons. They are relatively cheaper than the new ones and do not depreciate very quickly. There are multiple things to reflect on before purchasing a used car, which briefly includes your budget combined with the specs you want in your vehicle. Let us have a look on top 7 best used cars to buy in 2017.

Read more at CarsFlow.com

How to Buy a New Car Online

In early 2015, I began hearing rumors of the new Ford Focus RS. I had been toying with the idea of buying a new daily driver, since my bright idea to daily driver a Lamborghini was not turning out the way I had planned. The rumors slowly became facts, and the car hit many of the things I was looking for. It was fast (I can track it!), it had all wheel drive (for the Seattle rain), it had four doors (great for hauling my pug around), and most importantly it was going to be cheap enough that I could justify giving away our other car to my wife’s parents, who desperately needed a new vehicle.

In September 2015, before the order books were open, I began searching for a dealer who actually had an allotment. I had heard stories of people who ‘ordered’ other high demand cars such as GT350s only to find out, months later, that their dealer in fact was never going to receive one. Luckily, a friend of mine knew the General Manager of a Ford dealer located 4 hours away who not only had a single allotment, they would sell it to me for MSRP! I want to stress that this dealership has been GREAT through this whole process. They are also victims in Ford Corporate’s horrible bungling of the situation and I’m sure they want nothing more than to get my car to me.

The order books officially opened on October 12th of 2015 and I placed one of the very first orders for a fully loaded Nitrous Blue Focus RS. My dealer commented how, due to how fast we placed it, this could be one of the first 5 delivered on the West Coast. We tentatively thought it could arrive as soon as January, but I wasn’t going to hold my breath.

January came and went with no car. This wasn’t a huge surprise to me as they had just started building them. My dealer kept insisting my car should enter ‘Production’ status any day now, so I still kept tabs every couple of weeks. In February is where things started to go wrong. The factory was shut down for 3 weeks to fix something on all the cars produced to that date, and to change the tooling to prevent whatever issue was plaguing them from happening any more. Ford never officially communicated on this, but rumors were that it had something to do with the Rear Drive Unit (RDU) on the car. The RDU unit was brand new, cutting edge technology so some hiccups were to be expected.

Cars were being built, but mine was nowhere in sight. We obviously weren’t going to be one of the first 5 on the West Coast, but I was sure I’d get my car in due time. The only problem was this — Ford wasn’t giving anyone any information. The production process was and still is a complete mystery. As of this writing, there are people that ordered the same day as me (October 12th) whose cars have STILL NOT BEEN PRODUCED.

The savior of both myself and everyone else on the Focus forums were two anonymous Ford employees who, in their spare time, were secretly giving us information of our cars. It was through these two heroes that I was told the day my car started production — March 13th. My car’s production was halted at one point (as were others) to fix yet another issue, but it was ready to be shipped out in April. Along with a couple hundred other cars, it was loaded onto the Grand Legacy late April and made way for Newark, New Jersey. The Focus forums had a lot of fun as we all tracked the ship in real time — and one fan even snuck on to the boat to take pictures once it docked!

Users tracked the Grand Legacy in realtimeSomeone even snuck on the boat. My car is somewhere in there!

And this is where the fun stops. Ford found out about the employees on the forum and told them to cease all information exchange. My car was unloaded in Newark, New Jersey on May 6th and that is the last time I’ve heard anything. Seriously. It has now been 10 weeks since my car has been unloaded and I don’t have it. I don’t know what it’s doing at the docks. Ford won’t tell me. I don’t know when it will be delivered. Ford won’t tell me. Ford told all RS owners to start contacting Ford Service on Facebook (seriously), who are outsourced customer support who read off scripts.

This helpful nugget was after 8 weeks sitting in port.

And that’s where we are today. My dealer can’t get any information — literally. His calls to Ford Corporate go unanswered. I tried emailing up the chain and received this absolute gem of an email from their crack support team:

They flat out tell a customer buying a $40,000 car they will no longer respond to them

I tried contacting them on Twitter. On Facebook. I even e-mailed Mark Fields, the CEO. I thought that was going to get the ball rolling as I received an email response from a real human, but it’s been 3 weeks and my car is still missing. I’ve offered to fly in and pick the car up, they won’t allow that. They can’t even give me an ETA. I had registered for the Virginia City Hillclimb after the car docked in May, figuring 5 months was plenty of time, and now it looks like I’m going to miss it.

What’s even worse is I’m not even the worst off. As I previously mentioned, there are people who ordered the same day I did who don’t even have production dates yet. I’m hoping Ford sees this and begins to fix their atrocious customer support system, and actually gives information to consumers. It’s insane that in today’s Same Day Delivery world, we can’t track something as major as a car.

To end on a funny note, there was someone in my position who got tired of waiting. In the time his car has been sitting in purgatory in Newark he went out, ordered a new STI, they built it, shipped it to him, and he took delivery before his car made it out of Newark. Maybe I should do that instead.

Luxury cars still sell.

When you don’t really need to drive all that much

As a designated Car Friend, people often ask me: Hey, James. Should I pick up a reasonably-priced used car and drive to the beach and sometimes suburban grocery stores? The answer to this question, of course, is yes, but that answer invites a much lengthier interrogation: What cars should I look at? What’s a good budget? Are private sellers trustworthy? In the spirit of that discussion, what follows is a comprehensive guide to buying cars for people who live somewhere that ensures they don’t really need a car, but maybe it’s nice to have.

It’s a good era to be shopping for used cars. Assuming you don’t rely on your car for daily transportation, it’s possible to get a perfectly decent vehicle for a small investment. Modern autos last far longer than whips of previous generations, and even a car fifteen years old in 2016 ought to feature a solid slate of creature comforts and safety features: power windows, AC, airbags, ABS, etc. The slings and arrows of depreciation ensure that used cars of a certain era trade hands at perhaps 10 or 20 percent of their cost new. What’s more, a savvy motorist can drive one of these used cars for several years, maintain it a bit, then sell it at nearly the same price. There’s a baseline where depreciation slows to a crawl.

You ought to plan on laying out at least $2,500 for a reliable set of wheels. It’s unlikely an example much under that price point will have many years of life left in it. Outliers exist, of course, but the risk somewhat overshadows the reward. On the other end of the spectrum, the once-a-week driver probably doesn’t need to spend more than $5,000. Between those points is the sweet spot for value and reliability.

What types of car am I looking for?

Japanese manufacturers tend to produce the most reliable cars. In the used-car bargain bin, Hondas and Toyotas are the longest lived, and also hold their value a bit better than the competition. Lexuses and Acuras are often perfectly affordable — these are just Toyotas and Hondas by another name. Nissans and Subarus are safe bets, too. Older cars from European makes are hit or miss. Plenty of folks drive their BMWs and Mercedes into the ground without experiencing a major repair bill, but frequent maintenance is critical for more complex, luxurious cars. An aging sports sedan with power seats, air-adjusted suspension and dual climate zones has a lot more components capable of breaking down. Low-end Euros aren’t safe either: elderly VWs in particular should be banished from your search.

American cars tend to be the least expensive on the lot, for good reason. There are certain models from Ford, Chevrolet, Dodge, and their sibling brands that are screwed together well (particularly trucks) but many of these products are real duds. Avoid anything that looks like it belongs at a rental counter in LAX circa 2005.

For a consumer in the market for a “regular” car, boring old sedans and compact cars deliver the best value. Trucks, sports cars, Jeeps, etc., are valued by enthusiast communities and command a premium compared to more sedate transportation.

What to look for in a used car ad?

Cliché, but true: the best marketplace to seek a used car is the same venue you used to sell your couch and find a Pokemon trainer: Craigslist. Certain regions have good local-paper classifieds, too, but Craigslist — temple of retro web design — always delivers.

Lots of people fear buying a used car from a private seller, but I prefer to do business with an individual. Dealers don’t know much about the history of their inventory, while a private seller can share the life story of their car. Private sellers are by and large honest, if occasionally less informed than automotive experts. Used car dealers specializing in the cheapest cars, by contrast, are often true bottom-feeders — the fount from which car sales stereotypes emerged. There are reputable used car outlets, but be on guard for a fly-by-night operation.

Here’s an ad that appears to have nothing to hide

In evaluating ads, you’re looking for two things: maintenance history and plenty of clear photos. The more photos, the more likely the car is in good condition. Cars that invite close inspection should be advertised with shots taken from a variety of angles, showing the inside and under the hood. Check that doors all sit level, and that the color of each panel matches exactly — uneven body fit or paint can indicate a prior wreck. Look closely for signs of rust. Rust is the worst, usually a terminal condition, and especially a concern when shopping in the snowy, salty states of the northeast or Midwest.

The more maintenance an owner can demonstrate they’ve performed, the longer their car is likely to last, and the less money you’ll have to put into it. Ask about wear items that need to be regularly replaced: tires, brakes, battery. The longer a car has been with a seller, the more likely it’s been well looked-after. Mileage isn’t an urgent concern — it’s better to buy a thoroughly maintained car with higher miles than a low-mile example suffering from neglect.

Be aware there are certain big-ticket services all cars require as they age. Every 90k miles or so, most cars need to their timing belt and water pump replaced. This can be a costly pit stop, and skipping it is not wise. Cars over 100,000 miles often, but not always, require new exhausts, shocks, wheel bearing or axles — it’s a good sign if these repairs were repaired by the previous owner. If you happen to be shopping for a car with a manual transmission, the typical lifespan of a clutch is 100–150k, so the cost of a replacement should be factored into the purchase of a car that has traveled that range on its original equipment.

I’m going out to see a used car — how do I inspect it?

So, you found a promising lead and it’s time for an-person inspection. Ask the seller if they can avoid starting the car before your visit. Certain ailments are more noticeable on a cold start, so unscrupulous car dealers sometimes take the liberty of warming their goods up. When you get out to see the car, before you turn it on, conduct a walk-around. Do the panels fit tight?

This is the kind of rust that can eat up a car — avoid it!

Is the paint color consistent all around? Is there any rust in the lower edges of the body. The tires should all match and show good depth. Make sure all the lights and signals work, then check that the engine is full of fluids: oil, coolant, power steering and transmission fluid. [note: definitely do NOT check coolant level on a hot engine!] While you’re under the hood, peep the sheet metal around the engine: does it look straight and original? Poke your head under the car and see if it appears to be leaving any puddles of oil or coolant from a fresh leak. If there’s water under the car and the AC was just running, don’t fret! That’s normal.

Assuming you made it this far, it’s time for a drive. Start the car up, listening for untoward noises like squealing belts or a rattling exhaust. Did the check engine light illuminate when the key was in “on” and go away after the engine was started? Test all the accessories: windows, AC, wipers, etc, and hit the open road. Leave the windows down to better hear any potential mechanical issues.

Once you’re on the open road, see how the car responds to changes in speed and RPMs. Does the engine sound smooth or does it stumble? Are gear shifts firm and quick? Are bumps absorbed with aplomb, or does the car feel like it’s too low or too bouncy? On a straight, flat, safe section of road, release the wheel and check that the car drives straight. Push the brakes: do they cause the car to pull to one side?

Once you’re satisfied your potential purchase drives the way it should, it’s time to make an offer and do some paperwork.

How much should I pay for this car?

Uncomfortable as it may be to haggle, negotiations are a fact of life in the used car game. Dealers and private sellers both set their asking price in anticipation of being knocked around a little bit. The typical wiggle room in a used car price is around 10 percent, but don’t let that stop you from bargaining your way to an even better price reduction.

Before you seal the deal, tell the seller that you’re ready to buy, but you’re concerned the asking price is just too high. Often, a seller will do some negotiating on your behalf, and throw out a slightly lower number. Whatever the response to your initial entreaty, don’t accept the quoted figure immediately. Instead, suggest a price twenty-five percent under the most recent offer. That’s an amount close enough to ask to demonstrate you’re serious, and it’s further than halfway under the typical negotiations (ten percent), stacking the deck slightly in your favor. There may be a little back and forth from here out, but stick to your guns. It’s very, very rare to meet a seller with no willingness to deal.

The voyage home

I prefer to bring my used car purchases home immediately after negotiations. I head to the bank and withdraw the full amount (this probably means a visit to a live teller, not the ATM) and fill out the paperwork with the seller on the spot. The seller needs to sign over the title (check that it is “clean,” i.e., not salvage or repair branded), and provide a signature on a bill of sale. The BOS is not a complicated document. In nearly any state, the DMV will accept a handwritten agreement that lists the car’s selling price, Vehicle Identification Number and the names and addresses of the buyer and seller. A couple oddball states like Pennsylvania require this documentation to be notarized—a quick visit to Google should clear up the rules in your state.

If you don’t plan to bring the car home the day you viewed it, leave a deposit (10 percent of the sale price, or $500, whichever is less) and write up an agreement to provide the remainder.

One final hurdle in the transaction process: physically getting the car home. Odds are that on the day of your purchase, you are not equipped with valid registration and license plates for the new car. The easiest solution: drive it home with the old license plates still on the car (they’re valid until the previous owner cancels the registration) and mail the plates back to the seller. If the previous owner balks at this plan, you could ask her to drive the car herself to your home, and then offer to ferry her back. If these options are both off the table, you’ll need to leave the car with the seller and head to the DMV to secure registration. After getting license plates at the DMV, you can return to the seller and drive off into the sunset 100 percent legit.

For most people, buying a used car is a rare occasion indeed, and it’s easy to feel intimidated by the process. Don’t sweat it. There are lots of great used cars out there, and a little bit of research and preparation will go a long way toward a successful purchase. You’re going to do great!