Overview

From the SE

The Oldenhorn (Becca d' Audon) is a picturesque peak located near the far western end of the Bernese Alps. Its summit is the common point of Cantons Bern, Valais, and Vaud. It is believed that the peak was climbed as early as 1811. It was certainly climbed by a survey party in 1835. The summit is recommended for its impressive views. The East Ridge Route is included as part of a round tour including Les Diablerets (3209 m) and Tour St. Martin (2908 m) in "Berner Oberland, Die 100 Schoensten Touren" (The 100 Finest Routes in the Berner Oberland) by Grossen and Rebuffat.

Getting There

You can also approach from Col du Sanetsch (You can get there by cable car from Gsteig or even by car from Saviese). Its a 2 hour hike through what the Tsanfleuron glacier left behind when it grew smaller: A wide, wild area of rocks, ponds, valleys and swiss army grenade ammunition.

Routes Overveiw

There are five main routes on the Oldenhorn. The easiest and safest is the East Ridge which is an easy walk up and recommended spring ski tour. Information is sketchy regarding the others. The rock on the mountain is generally poor quality for rock climbing.

South Flank About 2 ¼ hours from the Cabane des Diablerets. The route follows a couloir through the cliffs and joins the East Ridge below the summit. Some of the climbing described as difficult over steeply sloping plates.

Southwest Ridge About 4 hours from the base of the ridge. Involves a difficult overhanging chimney.

West Flank About 2 hours from the Cabane des Diablerets Ascends a couloir directly below the summit and joins the Southwest Ridge. Rated S (D).

North Ridge About 2 ¼ hours from the Cabane des Diablerets. Mixed climbing with a difficult chimney. Rated S (D).

Red Tape

Check first to see if the Swiss army is using the Tsanfleuron glacier for grenade training.

Mountain Conditions

Maps

Images

"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe