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Car amplifier buying guide

Get the wattage and number of channels you need

Buck Pomerantz was born and raised in Philadelphia. His parents bought their first television set when he was born. He figured out how to run it by the time he was two. Besides athletics, his formative interests included electronics, amateur radio, music, and stage crew work. He got his BA in writing from Brown University. Then he joined a rock 'n roll band as their soundman and moved to Charlottesville, Virginia. After that venture failed, he spent time in Boston, New Orleans, and Berkeley. He worked in a music store in Austin manufacturing, installing, repairing, and operating sound systems for recording studios, clubs, and bands. He moved back to Charlottesville, ran a little recording studio and finally joined Crutchfield as a copywriter. He has 2 grown children and 3 grandchildren, but after a good nap he can still rock out.

Why add an amplifier?

If you want your music to be loud, amplifiers are definitely part of the picture. But whether you run your system wide open or softly enough for conversation, a power amplifier will breathe life into your music, bringing out all of its excitement and detail. Here are a few of the main benefits of adding an amp:

Better sound quality — Adding an amplifier gives you a clean power source that can drive your speakers without straining. Unlike an amplifier built into an in-dash stereo, an external power amp isn't limited by the space available — it can be designed without compromises. That means your music will sound cleaner and more defined at all volume levels.

Power for upgraded speakers — A factory system or an in-dash receiver may not do justice to your upgraded speakers. If you're adding high-quality aftermarket speakers or component systems to your vehicle, they may require more power for peak performance than your existing in-dash receiver can provide.

Powering a subwoofer — Subwoofers require significantly more power than a brand-name or factory in-dash receiver can provide. A separate amp is a necessity.

I want to add some oomph to a factory system

Standard factory car stereos usually have no more than about 10 watts RMS maximum output power per channel, in spite of what the car dealers advertise. That's usually not enough power to overcome road noise without sounding shrill. A great way to upgrade your sound system without changing the factory look of your vehicle is to get a factory system upgrade. Each of these systems include an amplifier and other sound processing gear custom-designed for your specific vehicle that will vastly improve the sound and leave the interior looking stock.

A more economical way to upgrade your sound system without changing the factory receiver or speakers is to get a compact 4-channel amp to boost the power for your front and rear speakers. The Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack and the Clarion XC1410 4-channel amp are two examples of amplifiers that are small enough that they can be installed behind many dashboards and powerful enough to dramatically increase the quality and clarity of your sound. Both of these amps, as well as many others available at Crutchfield, feature inputs that can handle the high-level signal from the vehicle's factory speaker wiring. Look for an amplifier with "speaker-level inputs" as one of its features if you want to add it to a factory system.

DIY Installation Help

Amplifiers don't come with the wiring you need to connect them to your stereo.

Wiring kits provide everything you need to send signal and power to your amp.

I want my aftermarket speakers to really sing

All aftermarket speakers, especially component sets, benefit from being fed more power than what a factory or even an aftermarket receiver can put out. Among a speaker's published specifications you will find its RMS (or "continuous") power rating, usually as a range — "5-60 watts RMS power range" for example. The higher number represents the approximate driving power at which the speaker will play at its fullest and best according to the manufacturer. Actually, most speakers get rated very conservatively and can take a lot more power than their rating (as much as 150% of the rating is usually safe). But they really won't sound good unless they're able to get at least 3-quarters (75%) of that power rating.

So, if you already have aftermarket speakers, find out their top RMS rating. Pairs should be the same, but if your front and rear pairs are slightly different, it's okay — use the lower rating. Multiply that number by 75% (0.75) — this is the minimum RMS wattage the amp you're looking for should have per channel. Now, multiply that rating number by 150% (1.5) — this is the maximum output power per channel you'll want for your amp. Don't worry if you can't find an amp small enough to match speakers with low power ratings. You can always set your amplifier's gain low enough that it won't ever attain its full power, so your speakers will be safe.

Many people like their music with a strong front stage and don't even use rear speakers. A 2-channel amplifier will be the practical solution when you only need to power a single pair of speakers. But if you like rear-fill sound in your car and want to retain front-to-rear fade control, get a 4-channel amp — one channel for each speaker.

There are some other amp configurations to consider for when you want to include a subwoofer in your system. A 3-channel amp can take care of a single pair of speakers plus a sub quite effectively. A 4-channel amp can also be employed to run a pair of speakers and a sub — two channels bridged together to run the sub and the other two to drive the speakers. This gives you the option for future expansion of your system, allowing you to later change the amp over to run four speakers and add a separate amp for the sub.

Alpine's PDR-V75 5-channel amp can power your front and rear speakers along with a sub.

You may want to consider a 5-channel amplifier that can power your entire system from one convenient and compact package. Some manufacturers offer 6- and 8-channel amps. These were designed to run 3- and 4-way active systems, with amplifier channels dedicated to one driver each, like a tweeter or a midrange speaker, and a couple channels bridged together to run a sub.

I plan to get new speakers along with my new amp

When building a system from scratch, one of the first questions you should ask yourself is, "How loud do I want this to be?" Car audio systems don't necessarily need massive amounts of amp wattage to sound loud, but having a lot of power available is good for the "headroom" of a system, the ability to deliver an emotionally impactful burst when the music asks for one. There's also the interior size of your vehicle to consider.

If you drive a compact coupe or hatchback, a sports car, or a small-cab pickup, for instance, a 50 watts RMS per channel, or smaller, amp will probably do fine, overcoming road noises and adding clarity to your music. Look for speakers with a top RMS rating of at least 35 watts RMS (using the 75%/150% rule) to go along with the amp.

For larger vehicles and for those who just want more volume, you should step up to at least a 75 watts RMS per channel setup. A difference of 5 or 10 watts either way won't make any difference and probably can't even be heard. Matching speakers will need to each have a top RMS rating of 50 watts RMS or more.

Those of you who want even greater impact and eye-popping volume out of your system will want to go for an amp with 100 watts RMS or more per channel. Get speakers or component sets rated for at least 75 watts RMS each.

I'm just adding a subwoofer

Bass is much harder to amplify than the rest of the spectrum of sound — that's why there are so many large and beefy subwoofer amplifiers out there dedicated solely to reproducing bass. Mono, 1-channel amps are designed for subwoofers, will work with a wide range of impedances, and have tone controls and filters specifically made to help reproduce bass. Although many 2- and 4-channel amps can be bridged to increase their power enough to run a sub, they often then can't handle the sub's low impedance, and overheat or go into protect mode.

You want the bass to musically blend and be well-balanced with the rest of your system, so, here's a good rule-of-thumb guide to sub power:

If you're using your car's factory stereo — 50 to 200 watts RMS of power for the bass will do nicely.

An aftermarket receiver — you might want 200 to 300 watts RMS of power for your sub.

Amplified speakers with around 50 watts RMS per channel — plan on 250 to 500 watts RMS for bass

A 100 watts RMS or higher per channel system — you'll want at least 1,000 watts RMS for your sub.

You'll need to impedance match your sub amp and sub. It would be a shame and a waste of money to buy a couple of subwoofers and an amplifier, for instance, only to find out that the amp can't run the subs because wired together, their impedance would be too low for the amp to run without overheating. Remember, if you're adding a sub to a factory system, get a subwoofer amp with speaker-level inputs, so it can get its signal from the factory speaker wires.

Need more help?

Browse our entire selection of car amplifiers. If you need more help, give our Advisors a call at 1-888-955-6000. They have the knowledge and experience to help you find an amp that will meet your needs.

Comments

Debbie, Crutchfield does not carry a direct replacement for that factory amplifier, nor a harness to bypass it. Our research shows that the Mark Levinson amplifier connects to the vehicle's databus, so if an aftermarket amplifier were installed with all new wiring, you'd probably lose features like door chimes and navigational audio. You can call and check with one of our expert sales advisors to see if there is a solution out there for you, but I don't know of one besides getting a replacement amplifier from Lexus. Sorry.

Posted on 4/27/2015 11:40:28 AM

Byron from PA

My amp in my 2007 Jeep Commander quit working. As I was replacing the head unit anyhow, I didn't have the amp replaced but it was bypassed and now only the rear speakers work. It still sounds good, but I am a sucker for good sound! It has the Bose system in it - six speakers (4 front, 2 rear). Can anyone tell me what amp is included with the market Bose sound system? I am trying to figure out a price to have it replaced as well as what amp to get.

Posted on 5/4/2015 8:07:10 AM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Byron, Your vehicle's electronics and factory sound system are intricately connected. Replacing the stereo requires a specific combination of wiring interfaces in order to keep everything working right, and the loss of your front speakers could be a side-effect of that. If you have the info, find the model numbers for all the installation hardware and harnesses used to install your new stereo, then give our advisors a call. Even if you don't have all those details, they probably can help you get what you DO need to get everything working again.

Posted on 5/4/2015 3:32:34 PM

LB from nevada

i have an after market Beats speakers with a sub, i would like my music to be loud and clear can i just and an amp to it.

Posted on 5/10/2015 11:48:25 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

LB, If you are talking about Bluetooth speakers, then no, you cannot add an amplifier. If you are talking about car speakers, then it would depend on the year, make, model, and quality of the stock system (whether it's premium or not). Some vehicles may require specific factory system bypass harnesses in order to work, but generally speaking adding an amplifier to a car audio system makes the music louder and clearer.

Posted on 5/11/2015 11:21:08 AM

Phillip Easterday from Knoxville, TN

Please educate me!?.... I am planning on putting a fairing on my Vulcan 1600 motorcycle...the fairing has 4, 4" holes for speakers and a single din space for a stereo... the radio I would like to get is a SONY MEX-M70BT which indicates 55 watts x 4 channels peak and RMS 17 watts x 4 channels... I am discovering I am limited on speaker selection by the size of the hole...4".. but I have found Boss CH4230 3 way speakers that indicate 225 watts peak and 115 watts RMS.. If I go by the math 17 x .75=12.75 & 55 x 1.5=82.5...which seems low for these speakers... but 115 x .75=86.25 & 225 x 1.5= 337.5.. which means I guess I need an amp that ranges from 86.25 to 337.50 watts?
the amp cant raise the wattage anymore than it is rated...so say a radio that puts out 20 watts and a amp that puts out 50 watts, means you get 50 watts.. not 70 watts...correct?
So, can you please tell me what rating of amplifier I need or if I need one at all...
because my head hurts from trying to see through this, thank you for your time
Respectfully
Phillip

Posted on 5/20/2015 10:43:31 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Phillip, You don't necessarily need an amplifier - you may find the receiver's output power adequate for those speakers. If you do want more volume, I would suggest looking for a marine or other power sport-suitable 4-channel amplifier with no more than 100 watts RMS per channel. Only use RMS specs. "Peak," "Max," and "Dynamic" ratings are exaggerated, misleading, and only used by manufactures for advertising their gear as being louder than the next guy's.

Posted on 5/21/2015 11:50:58 AM

Randi from Columbus, Ohio

The amp in My 07 Acura TL with Navigation keeps cutting out, is there a replacement amp for this unit?

Posted on 5/27/2015 2:54:26 AM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Randi, Crutchfield doesn't carry replacement gear for factory equipment like the amplifier in your Acura (which has 6 channels running 8 speakers). An Acura dealership would probably be able to provide one, but it would also probably be very expensive. I would advise you to search local salvage yards or online for a used Acura amp. My Google search turned up three for sale on ebay right now.

Posted on 5/27/2015 12:31:56 PM

Ericthebear from Triangle, Va

I have an upgraded factory audio system. It has a factory amp under the passenger seat. I have two 3.5" speakers in the dash, a 6x9 speaker in each door (4 total) and a subwoofer. I want to add a new five channel amp to drive the door speakers and subwoofer, but keep the factory amp to drive the dash speakers, so each speaker has its own channel. The new amp would accept speaker level inputs. The current amp has not low or high pass settings, control was accomplished by having the various speakers have the appropriate pass. Is this a crazy idea? Most installers I have spoken with are downright resistant to this plan. Also, I have replaced all of the factory speakers with 2.3 ohm speakers like the originals. Most installers seem adamant at running the new amp at four ohms, even after I point out the speakers are all 2.3 ohm, including the sub. One last Question, would you have any idea as to the mounting depth/width limits on a 2015 Dodge Journey Crossover with the Alpine sound system

Posted on 6/8/2015 9:52:21 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Eric, Without knowing the power ratings of your aftermarket speakers, amp, and sub, I have no way of knowing whether or not they'd work together. Identifying the gear by brand names and model numbers helps. Perhaps those installers didn't want to put in a mismatched amplifier that could possibly blow your speakers. Your premium audio system's amplifier would normally get bypassed with a harness when installing an aftermarket amp - but I don't think there is one for your vehicle. This makes connecting your 5-channel amp's inputs a bit problematical, but a line output converter (LOC) that can handle high-level inputs should solve that.

Posted on 6/9/2015 11:24:24 AM

BearmeatDC from Triangle, VA

I had the amp questions last evening. The speakers are now (4) JBL 963's at 2-100 rms 300 peak, (2) JBL GTO 329's, and planning on a JVC KS-AX3205 amp that provides 50 watts/4 ohm or 65 watts/2 ohm per channel and 300 watts at 2 ohms for the sub. The sub specks are unavailable. If it blows I can replace. Actually I would be ok running it off the factory amp if this is a big issue. I just thought with two amps, every speaker would have a channel. The factory amp is 368 watts total, which drove all six speakers and the sub in the original configuration. So knowing this are my ideas for two amps, at 2 ohms crazy? The new amp has high level inputs so I had thought if the out puts for the four door speakers from the factory amp went to the new one, and the dash speakers ran off the factory amp - all would have a channel. As for the sub in my plan it could move to the new amp or stay with the old one.

Posted on 6/9/2015 12:20:03 PM

BearmeatDC from Triangle VA

The factory amp does not filter the singles, in the original set up, the door speakers were low pass and the dash speakers high pass.

Posted on 6/9/2015 12:21:26 PM

ErictheBear from Triangle VA

The JBL GTo329's are 5-25 rms 75 watt peak

Posted on 6/9/2015 12:27:18 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Eric, I see no reason why that amplifier won't work with those speakers, though it probably will overpower the factory subwoofer. Again, you will have a problem getting input to your new amp, unless you use a device like an AudioControl LC6i to lower the factory amplifier's output to line level for the new amp's input.

Posted on 6/10/2015 3:27:54 PM

Pete Martinez from Humble TX

hello I have a Kicker Comp shallow (Kicker 40CWRT121) mount speaker installed in my truck. I am using a Rockford Fosgate amp P500.1 which is a mono amp. I keep blowing my sub. This is the third sub I had to replace. I am wanting to know help on selecting a different amp. I know the amp I currently have installed is a little too much for this sub. Could I get what is best amp to help me push this subwoofer. Thanks in advance

Posted on 6/14/2015 5:25:58 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Pete, I'm not sure exactly which amplifier you have, but if it's a Rockford Fosgate Punch P500-1bd, then it's capable of putting out 400 watts RMS to a 2-ohm load. That subwoofer is a DVC 1-ohm model that can only be wired as a ½-ohm or a 2-ohm load, and is rated for 800 watts RMS. The amp is not too powerful for that sub, in fact the opposite is true. I suspect what's happening to you is that you're under-powering the sub and driving the amp into clipping trying to get loud bass out of your system. That's what's blowing your subs, I think. A better amp to drive that sub would be the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D, which would deliver 800 watts RMS to the 800-watt rated sub when wired to 2 ohms.

Posted on 6/15/2015 2:18:01 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Brandon, In my opinion, the simplest and most cost-effective way to add bass is to get a powered subwoofer with speaker-level inputs and just add it to an existing system. As for your other questions, I've forwarded your questions to Crutchfield's Sales Advisor Team, and a member will get in touch with you by email to offer suggestions and help you choose the right gear for you and your vehicle. For immediate help, you can contact them via phone or chat.

Posted on 6/22/2015 4:39:52 PM

Jose from Bradenton fl

I have some 12' prv midrange speakers they're 1000rms 2000max which amp would be best for them i have 8 of them

Posted on 7/10/2015 7:24:26 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Jose, If this is for a PA system, then a couple of Crown XTi 6002 power amplifiers will do nicely. Wire two speakers in parallel per channel. If it's for a car however, I don't know of any vehicle electrical system that could support such a high power requirement (over 700 amperes), even with extra batteries and high-current alternators.

Posted on 7/11/2015 12:31:14 PM

Carlos Gonzales from Kenosha, Wi

I want to hook up a sub with 2 10in speakers and I have a 4 channel 400 watt amp,and my car has a 4 speaker system. What do I need to hook this up?

Posted on 7/11/2015 10:18:25 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Carlos, Not knowing exactly what amplifier or subwoofers you have make it impossible to give advice on how to wire them together. Most people use their 4-channel amps to drive their four car speakers and get a separate subwoofer amp to run that.

Posted on 7/13/2015 1:42:44 PM

Zeyad from Middle East

Hello,
I'm planning to buy two of P126DVC Phantom 12-inch 2300-watt subwoofer, and i don't know which amplifier should i buy for the subwoofers.
Please help

Posted on 7/18/2015 5:35:22 AM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Zeyad, I was going to recommend the Rockford Fosgate T2500-1bdCP, but I see that you're not in the U.S. and I don't know what amps are available in your country. Crutchfield is only licensed to sell gear in the United States and Canada. Sorry

Posted on 7/19/2015 11:35:37 AM

William Huber from United States

I'm looking for a 1200w peak power amp for my dodge dart, is if possible to fit something like that?

George, That amplifier is not too strong for your speakers. Almost every aftermarket speaker can take 50 watts RMS. You should never use peak specs - always use RMS numbers.

Posted on 7/24/2015 10:02:00 AM

robert L henry jr from lancaster

can you mix brands say i have pioneer everything but then use a boss amplifier or can that effect quility

Posted on 7/25/2015 10:00:30 PM

Dustin Berrong from Fort Walton Beach

I am trying to make an ammo can boombox, and am having a little trouble. What kind and size of amp should i run if i plan on using 4 6inch kicker speakers? i am using battery power if that matters.

Posted on 7/26/2015 2:04:51 AM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Robert, Although some manufacturers claim that their components work best with each other, I don't think there's any evidence for that, and mixing brands will be okay.

Posted on 7/27/2015 8:49:43 AM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Dustin, Check out this article to see how we made a boombox in a cooler. Your project should be very similar. You'll need to pick an amp that'll fit in your ammo can and fortunately for you Crutchfield has a good selection of compact 4-channel amplifiers to choose from.

Posted on 7/27/2015 9:38:41 AM

Mike from Fairfax Station VA

I want to replace the amp on my 2001 BMW X5. Is this something a DIY guy can do with miminal wireing experience?

Posted on 8/1/2015 12:47:25 PM

Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

Mike, If you have minimal experience with car wiring, you should consider having a professional installer replace your BMW's factory amp with an aftermarket amp. There is no amplifier bypass harness available and seeing as the factory amplifier runs 10 speakers, you'll probably need multiple amps being fed from multiple outputs from the factory receiver.

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