No, I talked to Century and a couple of others. It appears the "kit" CJ retracts are not a drop in for the ARF. I also called Sierra. Very nice people and very expensive, but they do have a drop-in. I'm waiting for his pricing right now. There is also an issue with a particular plastic block on the Robarts that I don't believe has been solved. Still working this one.

Steve, the plastic block is the MAIN block that directs the gear up and down. It is a marginal design and Derrell sells a aluminum replacment. If you don't go with his gear, atleast get those blocks and you'll thank yourself in the future. BobH.

Well, I talked to Darrell again this morning. He is starting up a production run for TF Gear that should be available in a couple of weeks. How's this for service. Since I am ready to go and just waiting for a gear, he is selling me the gear he had in his TF at Scalemasters since he will not be able to finish his plane for some time to come. So in a couple of weeks I should have some real progress and be able to say how well his gear can be installed by a newbee retract guy. I'm still going with the Robart tailwheel (Tower shipping today) because his unit is not a drop in. Seems to be a very nice and honest guy to deal with. No BS and guesswork. Just straight forward info and help.

Steve, great to hear your going to be in business soon. If you mention to Darrell that I told you to talk to him.. its ok. He knows me. And don't forget to let us know how they work out.. and the cockpit!!! donworryaboudit!! lol. BobH.

Well, I'll be honest. If I had it to do over right now I would not try and put anything but a 2S engine or a gas engine with a side mounted carb no matter how many holes are in the cowl. I am having major problems figuring out how to hook up the DA50.

This plane has minimal space on the firewall for anything except the engine. I am going to have to put the ignition battery inside the firewall. I can find no place to mount the CDI unit except wrapped in a lot of foam and attached to the engine standoffs. The only other option would be a major install hassle inside the firewall with the battery. But this would require cutting at least a 3/4" hole, someplace I don't want to, in the FW to get the spark plug lead out.

The last problem is the rear mounted carb and how to run the throttle cable through the middle of the gas tank! I'm still measuring and trying to find a place that I can run the throttle cable that will not have to much angle. The distance from the throttle arm to the firewall is not the problem. It's the tank location. I still need to find out how much leaway I have in changing the throttle arm position. I am also thinking about building a little bracket so I can move the gas tank rearward a couple of inches. Right now just have no idea.

Splais, Mount your gas tank over the CG. This is a gas engine with a pumper carb and you dont need to mount your gas tank right behind the motor. Make a small ply plate that mounts to the top inside of the fuse over the CG. Hang your gas tank from this with some velcro straps. I do this on all my warbirds. Having the tank over the CG will keep you from having trim changes when the fuel is consumed also. I did this on my WM miss america mustang and it worked well. This will clear up your throttle mounting issues and will give tons of room to mount your ignition battery and ignition module.
Evan Q.

FW190d9:
How do you secure the Velcro to the wood structure? Is it the self adhesive type and doest it hold up to the gas if a leak would occur? Lastly do you put the center of the tank over the CG or do you put the CG of the full tank over the CG of the plane?

This is a good idea. I had (past tense) a Byron P-51 and the fuel tank was also mounted in the center of the fuse around the CG location just under the cock-pit. There was a light ply mount cut-out to the size of the tank. The tank would set down in the mount and then the tank would be secured with rubber bands wrapped around the tank and hooked to notches on the mount. The tank had foam glued to it in the areas that it contacted the fuse in order to minimize vibration.

Self-Stick Velcro. Don't trust it. It will eventually unstick. I have found that if you epoxy the the self-stick velcro in place, it will take a chizel to get it loose. Use CA and a small hammer will do. I think you see my point - glue it in.

After another bit of looking and realizing I probably can move the tank back some (duhhh), at least far enough to put whatever I need to inside the firewall, things are looking a little more positive. I have found that I only HAVE to move the tank about an inch rearward to solve the throttle linkage problem. I should have the retracts in about a week hopefully, then we will know for sure.

I am working on the non-scale cockpit. With the DBalsa Gunsight and BlueBox pilot its going to looks OK. You do have to cut the pilot off at the knees though (ouch).

Steve, I doubt your pilot will mind sacraficing his legs for your plane lol!.. Glad to hear your are making progress with the project!.. Keep nibbling away at the problems and before you know it.. it'll be time to fly! oh yea.. post more pics!!... BobH.

Well the engine and ignition are in and done. Easier than I thought after I quit trying to push the fuel tank up in the nose. The pics are self-explanatory. The CDI and battery are attached to the inside of the firewall.

BNDWDTH, Sorry, I didnt explain the velcro part very well. I get a box of industrial strength velcro at Home Depot or Lowe's. It comes in a 15ft roll and both sides have waterproof adhesive on them. On a 24oz dubro tank, I stick a 5 in long strip of the loop side of the velcro on the bottom of the tank. I then make 2 strips of the hook side of the velcro about 10-12 in long. These strips go around the plywood plate and around the gas tank and attach to the loop strip that is stuck to the bottom of the tank. I do not remove the covering on the adhesive for the 2 strips of hook velcro. This way, the tank is suspended below the plywood plate with a sheet of foam in between. You can see the fuel tank suspended in this shot of my 109 nose section.
Evan Q.

I also use velcro to secure my fuel tank but I do it a different way than Evan. I cut slots in the plywood plate and wrap velcro around the tank and the plate going through the slots to hold it on the plate.

I finished the cockpit area. it sits so low you can't really see it. So unless you love doing scale work, there is no purpose to it. I painted everything you can see Zinc Chromate and put in some dummy radio gear behind the seat.

Just started mine yesterday. I am using a G-62 with a CH ignition. Will use Robart gear if they can produce enough of them. This will be one of Four I will be assembling over the winter. Two for a friend and two for a member of our show team and mine. Going to do some formation flying! I do not for see any mods to the aircraft. I will use the interrior supplied and install one of the Toys "R" Us pilots if I can find them. Also the elite pilots are right on also.
I am how ever going to change the color of each rudder so the pilots can discern which plane is his. Mine will be the red tail, of course.
Gary Webb