Shape bodyNext row P3, P2tog, P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d per side (10 total sts)… 70 sts

Change to smaller needles and cont in reverse stocking st for 12 rows.

Shape armholesCast off 4 sts at beg of next two rows… 62 stsDec 1 st at end of next 6 rows… 50 stsCont straight for 42 rows, ending with a P side facing.Cast off all sts in K st

Front RSUsing 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.Next row PNextrow KRep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).Nextrow P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3.Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.Nextrow P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3Nextrow KBegin neck shaping – start your button hole here (optional) – I used a button and snap fastener. Nextrow P2tog, P to endNextrow KRep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

ShapearmholesCast off 4 sts at beg of next K rowNextrow P2tog, P to endDec 1 st at beg of next 6 K rows…Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.Cast off rem sts in K st

Front LSUsing 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.Nextrow PNextrow KRep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).Nextrow P3, P2tog, P to end.Rep this row every 8 (or so) RS rows until 5 sts have been dec on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.Nextrow P3, P2tog, P to end.Nextrow K

Begin neck shapingNextrow P to last 2 sts, P2togNextrow KRep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

ShapearmholesCO 4 sts at beg of next P row, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.Nextrow KDec 1 st at beg of next 6 P rows, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.Cast off rem sts in K st

I really like this design. I found you via the Daily Knitter. Do you think this is too hard for a beginner (I have 3 projects planned already, so I doubt I could get to this until the winter, I am SLOW).

I'm also interested in knowing the sizes as I'm about a size 20/22. This style is perfect for me. Being a new knitter, I probably need more details than most. Any help expecially with completed measurements and which yarns are recommended would be really appreciated.

Has anyone actually knitting this cardigan??? I am having problems figuring out the sleeves, it doesn't make sense to only knit 6 rows at the end, is this correct??? I really love this pattern and am almost finished except for the sleeves

Can anyone answer the question on sizing? The pattern states that the finished size at its widest part is 26", but the stitch gauge does not match that for stitches used. Am I reading this wrong. Nora when u made I assume for yourself, what size did you consider it?

As soon as I saw this beautiful cardigan I wanted to knit it, but then I saw that there was no indication of sizing, and other people are talking about the same problem, with no answer. So I took a close look at the pattern this morning, and I’ve figured out enough for me to start work on it. No guarantees that I’m right, but here’s how I see it. First of all, the gauge is critical, and the numbers I’ve worked out are for the gauge shown in the pattern: # 11 needles giving 3 stitches and 4 rows to the inch; #10 needles giving 5 stitches and 5 rows to the inch. If your gauge doesn’t match those numbers, you’ll need to adjust all the numbers in the pattern. So here goes with my measurements. (1) At the hem: The back is 80 stitches on #11 needles, or 26 2/3” Each side of the front is 50 stitches on #11, or 16 2/3” each Total circumference at the hem is 59” (2) At the base of the armhole, before the shaping starts: The back is 70 stitches on #10 needles, or 14” Each side of the front is 45 stitches on #10, or 9” each Total circumference at base of armhole is 32” The measurement at the base of the armhole is definitely too small for a size large, which is what I want,but if I stay with the #11 needles, I’ll have 70 stitches at 3 stitches to the inch, or 23 1/3” plus the 18” from the front, for a total of 41 1/3” at the armhole. This should be a roomy large, with a swingy hemline. After all those words, what I plan to do is just stay with the #11 needles on the back, but switch to the #10 as instructed for the front.(3) On the length, the instructions say to repeat alternating knit and purl rows for “approx 13 cm (19k rows)”. But 19 knit rows would be a total of 38 rows; and at 4 rows to the inch, that’s 9 ½”, which brings the total length up to 30”. However, if you keep it to 19 rows total, the length of the section will be about 4 ¾”, which is close to the 13 cm, and makes the total length come out at about 27 ½” as shown in the pattern.As I said at the start, I haven’t knitted this yet, and there are no guarantees on my numbers, but I plan to make the changes I’ve listed, and I’ll comment again after I’ve done it.