Jil Sander
Raf Simons offered a white, minimalist collection that divided the critics. Despite the glacial hues, Suzy Menkes of the Times saw “new warmth” and “confident streamlining” in this collection, noting the rounded edges and smart details. Style.com felt the mood was “surprisingly romantic,” and called the clothes “appropriately lovely” — particularly an impeccably tailored pair of navy suits. Though he praised subtle details like the silver piping on white shirt collars and the white trim on black car shoes, Godfrey Deeny found some of the looks “improbable,” asserting that the long, soft-collar shirts seemed both “too contrived for an older gent” and too stodgy for a twentysomething. And WWD deemed the collection entirely underdesigned. “So much clinical apparel, with white shoes to boot, evoked hospital orderlies,” it complained, while British Vogue more graciously noted the “clinical aesthetic.”