The fact is that « Alfacinha » Lisbon, i.e. the image the city gives to tourists based on Lisbon’s traditions and its more characteristic Portuguese traits (Popular Saints, grilled sardines, open-air dances, Fado, quaint neighbourhoods) cannot be split from the history of one of the most impressive overseas empires that brought black people to this city over 500 years ago!

Today’s African Lisbon can be found initially in the « Creole triangle » in the São Bento neighbourhood in the heart of the city, created in the early 1970s when the first natives of Cap Verde arrived in Lisbon and opened shops so that their compatriots could keep both emotional and communication ties with their place of origin (through shops selling produce from Cap Verde, discos, bars, cafés and transport companies specialising in the maritime routes between Portugal and Cap Verde).

Currently, «African Lisbon » stretches from the city centre to the outskirts, where over 93000 people of African origin live in neighbourhoods alive with the sounds and tastes of African party rooms, shops, hairdressers and typical restaurants. Most of these people (87 500) come from former Portuguese colonies, and nearly half (40 000) from Cap Verde alone. The rest of this African-Portuguese community is made up of 21 000 persons from Angola, 15 800 from Guinea Bissau, 12 600 from São Tomé and Príncipe and 3 600 from Mozambique.

Some say that Lisbon is the largest Portuguese-speaking African city, but when one takes a walk around Rossio and by the São Domingos church, it is obvious that this community is made up of a lot of different nationalities from a host of African countries, namely French-speaking Africa, represented by Senegal in terms of numbers.

Lisbon tries to highlight – often tentatively – the many origins that live within its boundaries. It does so by putting the spotlight on people, cultural, gastronomic and even botanical produce that all indicate the capital’s multicultural nature. All of the continents where the Portuguese nation settled (particularly Latin America and Asia) add to this diversity, making Lisbon a truly multiracial city. In the heart of more traditional Lisbon lives an African Lisbon that is discreet yet lively.

There are few references to black people and African involvement in the city’s life, but these can be glimpsed in religious imagery (Graça church), the decoration of some older shops (Pavilhão Chinês, various tea rooms), football (statue of Eusébio in the Benfica stadium), paintings and azulejos, and even in music (rumour has it that Lisbon’s traditional Fado takes its roots from African songs). However, the best indicator of how African Lisbon really is are its restaurants and discos.

The sounds of Africa are now essential to everyday life in Portugal. In Lisbon, African music is part of the air you breathe. And it’s probably in the nightclubs and discos, where black and white mix in close, sensual dances once the sun has set, that one can really experience the colourful, warm and Creole side of Lisbon.

Restaurante-Bar Casa da MornaR. Rodrigues de Faria 21. 1300 Alcântara, LisboaTel: (+351) 213 646 399‎www.casadamorna.com.ptSpecialties‎: Calulu de peixe, Caldo de peixe, Moqueca de Camarão, Cafriana, Cachupa e MuambaAnimation: African live music all the nights, with the band of the house