Update Plugged Sink / Small Hole in ABS Pipe. PLEASE HELP !!!

I had written yesterday about putting squash down the garbage disposal and having a plugged sink. The replies I got were very helpful. I checked the disposal and it is still spinning. I checked the P trap and T and water runs through it fine. The drain goes to the wall and makes a right hand turn and runs horizontal to the wall about 12 inches and then a left into the wall where it connects to the drain. Where the connection is before it runs horizontal (extension) there is a clean out. Water runs out of the clean out without a problem after I snaked it about twenty feet or so. Not much came out but perhaps I pushed the clog through. I cannot completely test it now, because a small 1/16th of a inch hole or smaller has developed in the collar. Think it was a defect burr that must have come off. This is ABS pipe and to cut and replace a section of the pipe would be a big ordeal as it runs behind a permanent cabinet. Is there anything that will permanently seal a small hole/fissure in ABS pipe? If anyone knows of such a thing, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

The hole is where a burr was that must have broken off. It does not have a crack. I inspected it closely? There is not enough clearance to get a collar around it. It is bizarre? Isn't there a liquid weld that will fill it???

There are things advertised on TVmostly two part epoxies, the box store that starts with L sells some, things like JB weld, but I've never had any luck. I would only call such a repair temporary at best. I've seen strange things work for years, but there are pictures we make fun of here with "Repairs" like that.

All I know is that mighty putty on the commercial could put plumbers that do leak repairs out of business. They wouldn't say it if it weren't true, would they? Get out your credit card now and they will triple your order.

I saw what I thought was a good idea advocated by people I thought were professional plumbers on another site for using a patch coupling that they made by modifying a standard coupling. Perhaps this is not a generally accepted approach though.

It might be easier to just cut the pipe and if you can move them at all you could slip a fernco coupling (flexible coupling) on to one pipe, align the two pipes, slide the coupling into place over the two pipes and tighten it but it seems like a lot of professional plumbers are not too keen on flexible couplings but this does sound like a reasonable place to use one to me.

And if you are willing to accept a mickey mouse solution which I (not a professional plumber) don't think is too bad you might try tape. There are specially made patching tapes and then there is the kind of black tape that sticks to itself that is designed to wrap galvanized pipe when it was buried underground. This stuff can make a very secure patch. If the hole is small and you're willing to take a chance on a less than bullet proof solution I might give this one a try.

ETA: I just noticed that redwood is one of the posters here. I thought it was redwood that I learned about the patch coupling from, but perhaps I am confused.

Does Billy Mays have mighty duct tape? I've thought about that samauri knife sharpener he has, I think I can wait for it to be on the shelf, but I want my dull knife to cut like a samauri sword. Good thing I froze my credit card in that big block of ice like that lady on the other commercial told me to. You wonder why I'm addicted to these forums.

I bought a product from my local plumbing supply that seems to be the same kind of stuff that Billy pitches. The stuff works if you let it set up properly. That said, if you use it figure that you'll never be able to break it free in the future. On a drain I think I'd give it a try but on an inlet, where it was exposed to any kind of pressure, I think I'd pass. It did work good for a gouge in a plastic bumper on my granddaughters car.....sanded it down after it set up, a little touch up paint, and it looks like new

I saw what I thought was a good idea advocated by people I thought were professional plumbers on another site for using a patch coupling that they made by modifying a standard coupling. Perhaps this is not a generally accepted approach though.

It might be easier to just cut the pipe and if you can move them at all you could slip a fernco coupling (flexible coupling) on to one pipe, align the two pipes, slide the coupling into place over the two pipes and tighten it but it seems like a lot of professional plumbers are not too keen on flexible couplings but this does sound like a reasonable place to use one to me.

And if you are willing to accept a mickey mouse solution which I (not a professional plumber) don't think is too bad you might try tape. There are specially made patching tapes and then there is the kind of black tape that sticks to itself that is designed to wrap galvanized pipe when it was buried underground. This stuff can make a very secure patch. If the hole is small and you're willing to take a chance on a less than bullet proof solution I might give this one a try.

ETA: I just noticed that redwood is one of the posters here. I thought it was redwood that I learned about the patch coupling from, but perhaps I am confused.

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Yes Dave it was me that talked about using a slip coupling to patch a hole in a plastic pipe. However in this case the hole is at the fitting joint. This is sawzall time! Putty and duct tape are bandaids and I do not advocate either.

I would use Epoxy. Try to counter sink the hole so there is more surface for the epoxy to adhere to. Mix the two part epoxy - if it is too runny, just wait a bit until it just begins to harden or thicken up and put some on the hole. You may wish to add some more after the intial application hardens. My bet is it will hold very nicely.

I had a Washing Machine, tub type, and it was leaking. I pulled the agitator and the Basket, (the part that spins around in the spin cycle). I could see what appeared to be a "bubble" looking piece of rust on the tank. I gave it a flick with a screwdriver and the bubble broke loose from the tank, leaving a pretty good sized hole (about the size of the ink barrel of a cheapo ball point pen). With nothing to loose, I got a very large drill bit and using it as a countersink, I countersunk the hole and put epoxy in it. It lasted for another 6-7 years - Epoxy is tough stuff.

The "right" answer is what several have mentioned....cut it out and replace the bad parts.

I would like to see a picture, but based on what you describe...I would inject a dose of real world here. It is very likely that if you get some Rectorseal 2 part epoxy putty from a plumbing supply house, clean the area, and pat a chunk the size of a good wad of gum into and around that hole, it will outlast the house.

I would not use "magic putty" from TV. It may well be the same product, or it may be a chinese knock-off or beyond-expiration-date overstock. The real stuff is not so expensive, you just don't get the 4 for 1 deal!

In my humble opinion, there are certain risks you take in life. Crossing the street is a tradeoff between your need to get to the other side, and the risk you could get run over by a crazy plumber!

The risk that this patch may ultimately leak, VS the time, inconvenience, and expense of cutting into the back of those cabinets, etc. TO ME , is an easy decision to make in my owm house.

Put on the patch, and add this to your quarterly "to do" check list...to inspect it for any signs of leakage.