The High Stile ridge on the wobbly coast to coast walk

Day Twelve: 28th June

Weather: sunny start, clouding over and finished in RAIN!!

Route: Stonethwaite to Ennerdale Bridge - 16.7 miles with
5300ft of ascent

I've included this walk from my wobbly coast to coast as
I ticked off two more Wainwrights and a few others I'd
walked before - Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike, Starling Dodd and Great Bourne. It is a big day and if you were up to it you could include Grey Knotts and Brandeth - it would have been a step too far for me. I suppose it would make a good linear walk if you had transport arranged, or a two day venture, returning via Steeple, Pillar etc on the other side of the valley. Whichever way you walk this ridge it gives a tremendous viewpoint over many high lakeland fells. I enjoyed it as much as the first time I walked up here from Buttermere - although I didn't see any red squirrels this time round

Quelle Horreur – it rained today! I started the day in bright sunshine, warm and pleasant. I set out from Stonethwaite with ‘legs of lead’ and wondered which route I would end up taking today. I knew that the route would take me up a lot of ascent, but I’d forgotten about the march up to the Honister slate mine. I started off gently enough walking past the old church at Stonethwaite – the grounds have got plenty of occupants, and the view down Borrowdale was great – my favourite little fell of Castle Crag nestled down in the valley, whilst to my left at the head of the valley was the towering Glaramara. I cut across the fields to the road and had a few miles of road walk ahead as I was too lazy to walk into Langthwaite for an off road path. It was quiet and sunny at first but I could see the clouds bubbling up on the higher tops. I carried on along the lane to Seatoller, a small little village with a nice looking pub – I think the café was open for breakfast, but it was a bit early and I’d already scoffed a bunch of toast. As I approached the centre I saw a couple of walkers sat in the bus shelter, and was sorely tempted to look at the timetable to see when the Honister Stroller was due. The long slog up the pass followed, with many cars in second gear, which gives you an idea of the gradient – I never got out of first gear. My second temptation of the day was to stick out my thumb and hitch a lift as a stream of cars went past. But I stuck to my resolve, put nose to Tarmac and ground out the ascent up Little Gatesgarthdale.

looking down Borrowdale - Castle Crag is on the left

the small church at the end of Stonethwaite

Glaramar at the head of the valley

the long haul up tothe Honister Pass

the car park at Honister slate mines

Eventually, sweating and puffing I came up to the mineworks at Honister, a curious mix of industry and leisure, but it obviously works, as every time I’ve seen the place it has been very busy. I had a mooch around the place, noting the owners green helicopter, lots of slate works and lots of attractions for the tourists. It was too early to call into the cafe, so I gulped in some more fresh air and set off up the regular C2C path, a stone stepped/stony path up on an old tramway. Part of my mind when I planned this route was to tick off Fleetwith Pike, Grey Knotts and Brandreth, but I was realistic enough to know that would have been pushing things and might have taken away some of the enjoyment. The weather was ominous as I crested the rise and the path leveled off, with Great Gable in the clouds as was Pillar, Steeple and friends on the other side of Ennerdale. I could feel the rain in my bones, but still hoped that I would keep my record going. As I reached Drum House the whole vista opened up before me, with Haystacks, and High Crag to my left and Buttermere down below, with Fleetwith Pike up to the right. The summits ahead were nice and clear, but when I looked behind me – it was coming to get me. It was a touch chilly as well which made for pleasant walking as I headed for Alf’s favourite fell – Haystacks, a bit gritty underfoot in places. The walk passed by some old mine buildings at Dubs Quarry, crosses a beck and makes its way up to the flank of Haystacks itself. I had a good view down Buttermere as I made my way along passing a windy Blackbeck Tarn before heading up to Haystacks. It was a fairly straightforward ascent and I always enjoy looking at the tarns, I bet he enjoyed getting the bus up to Honister and then the short walk up here.I believe Innominate Tarn was one of Alfs favourite places, so I sat and pondered a little and then marvelled at his single-mindedness in mapping out all these glorious fells.

a bit gloomy looking back down the hill

Haystacks and the High Stile ridge ahead

the view down Buttermere and Crummock Water beyond

Great Gable hidden by cloud

a windy Blackbeck Tarn

It was a bit gloomy on top by the tarn and I knew I had a choice today of a low route via Ennerdale and the lake or a high route to tick off a couple of Wainwrights along the High Stile ridge. ‘Sloth’ was nudging me to take the easy path, and I gave it some consideration when I was going up and over Haystacks. The steeper side of Haystacks led me down over a few little scrambles to Scarth Gap. I met a couple of LDP walkers who were airing their toes, so we fell into chatting and came to the conclusion that I’d already subconsciously made. It was very windy weather there and quite blustery - soon enough it was time to make a choice. The toes whispered Black Sail hut please, and the knees agreed. But oh no, the bloody legs decided that the High Stile ridge would do very nicely thank you – damn that can of Red Bull. It looks a formidable haul up to High Crag, but it’s not so bad as you have to walk up to Seat first then it levels off before the ascent up the zigzags. I had a good look at the sky to try for an excuse but none was coming. The path took me steeply up a scree path, up about 300ft of ascent before the path levelled off onto Seat, and then I had about ¼ of a mile to recover before the full on assault of High Crag. I always reason with myself that if a slope is very steep, then I will be at the top a lot quicker – and it’s true it took me about 20 minutes to plod up about 650ft of a mix of stone and scree. To be honest I was glad to be going up, because coming down is quite an ordeal on the legs.

Innominate Tarn with High Crag in the background

Fleetwith Pike high above Warnscale Bottom

High Crag looms large

this shows how steep the slope is up to High Crag up Gamlin
end

looking down into Ennerdale from High Crag

Fleetwirh Pike, Haystacks and Seat from the top of High Crag

Once I was up on the summit the views were superb over to the Derwent Fells, but behind me Pillar, Great Gable, and Haystacks among others were looking distinctly wet. At this stage I knew it was a question of when and not if the rain came. So I hunkered down for lunch below the ridge line and out of the wind, and had a grandstand view over Buttermere and beyond – I may have sent one or two picture messages as it was so glorious. It was still fine so far, but a glance over to Steeple told me to think otherwise, but ahead of me the views are some of the best in the Lake District – too many hills to name but Ennerdale was down to my left and Buttermere to my right. Wainwright picked a lot of fells around here as his favourites, and this ridge is certainly high up the list for me – it’s a flog to get up here but boy is it worth it – and if you’re ticking off the fells there are quite a number along here. Once I’d walked past High Stile and Red Pike with its distinctive red scree
(red Granophyre), I had Starling Dodd and Great Bourne to aim for. Once I was up on top of Red Pike I could see the rain ahead of me, waiting, and waiting – dohh. But these were now nice rounded hills with no steep ascent. The bigger fells were now behind and to my right were a bunch of Wainwrights yet to be visited, such as Melbreak and Hen Comb. It was a fairly gentle walk down and up to Starling Dodd and as I crested the top, two Dalek like cairns came into view – they looked great – a mangled mess of scrap iron.

across the valley to the Derwent Fells

High Stile ahead and Ennerdale down to the left

the view from my lunch spot - Skiddaw way in the distance,
Grasmoor to the left, Snockrigg and Robinson to the right

looking back up to Great Gable

and steeply down to the south west end of Buttermere

looking back to High Crag from High Stile

On I walked with Great Bourne next on the list, a long steady ascent up to the summit – there wasn’t a path on the map, but there was on the ground – just don’t go climbing over the new fences as you don’t need to. As I got up to the last summit I felt the spit spot of raindrops for the first time in 12 days. So it was on with the wet gear and away with the camera, one last look up Ennerdale told me that the sun has finished, and normal service is resumed – it’s was still raining 6hrs later. But I only had a few miles left and therefore only got wet for 2 hrs. I was lucky in my route planning off Great Bourne and once down the steep flank the rest was relatively straightforward. Off the top I followed the fence down over Steel Brow, a very steep slope –and it came in handy to hold once or twice as I skidded down on wet grass . From the bottom I turned west and followed the valley of Gill Beck down to a place called Whins. There were paths and farm tracks to follow down through the fields – the local land owners have posted ‘private keep out signs’ on many gateways, and included a bit of barbed wire as well. Everything took on a very soggy outlook very quickly, but I didn’t mind too much as I had had another superb high level walk. The navigation down towards the end of Ennerdale Water was made a bit awkward by an arsy farmer who hemmed in the footpath close to a hedge, and then completely did away with it as it reached a boggy bit. The path by the shore was fine, and despite the rain I felt fine as well. A last couple of miles road walking into Ennerdale Bridge and it was time to borrow a hair dryer for my boots – I need a new pair – I think Marmite should sponsor me. What a fantastic walk this has been, very tiring, but very rewarding and always with a nice pint to end the day – cheers.

three more tops ahead -Red Pike, Starling Dodd and Great
Borne

Red Pike with Bleaberry Tarn below

looking back up to Red Pike

a stunning view across to the Derwent Fells from Red Pike

the weather closing in over Starling Dodd and Great Borne

almost on top of Starling Dodd and here comes the weather

exterminate.....Starling Dodd summit

a fine use of scrap metal - Grasmoor is the backdrop

Great Borne next, bring on the rain

I so nearly made two weeks without any rain

the big camera went away as soon as the rain started - the
next few were taken with the I-phone - not bad actually

the steep route down by the fence off Great Borne

I can't complain after the weather I've had - looking down to
the end

Bowness Knott in the gloom

a soggy end to the day

One more to go – I totted up mileage and ascent today –
blimey it’s 206 miles and…..37,544ft of ascent – no wonder so
many things are knacketed.