Wine picks for an early spring

Is winter's end really near? Only the shadow knows -- but we are prepared either way. Punxsutawney Phil didn't see his shadow, but we have wine picks for a longer winter or an early spring.

On Feb. 2, we observe yet another holiday that every non-American I've ever met thinks is odd: Groundhog Day.

The only day of the year when the weather forecast doesn't matter. Pennsylvania's earliest settlers celebrated Candlemas Day (the 40th day after Christmas, or Feb. 2) with the adage, "For as the sun shines on Candlemas Day, so far will the snow swirl in May," and they leave the prognosticating to Punxsutawney Phil, a groundhog.

The holiday had its origins in ancient European weather lore. A bear or badger would emerge from its winter sleeping place and, if it saw its shadow because the sun shone, it went back to its burrow and we were cursed with six more weeks of winter. If the skies were overcast, however, and the animal didn't see its shadow, it remained outside its lair and spring was soon to come. (I discern no logic here, but I am neither a bear, a badger nor an ancient European.)

Of course, Pennsylvania has both bears and badgers, but the Keystoners settled on the groundhog. I have no idea what Punxsutawney Phil will see on his big day.

But, if it's winter we still must face, I have some red wine recommendations for you; and if spring be sweetly on its way, some white wine ideas. Here they are, from several countries and across a range of prices. I add food match ideas as well.

Winter

2005 Lungarotti Vigna Monticchio Torgiano Rosso Riserva, Italy: Roughly two-thirds sangiovese and one-third canaiolo — the mainstays of Chianti, although made in Umbria — the wine has not lost any color in its six years. Soft, plush, supersophisticated (it sits lightly, teasingly, on the tongue), with aromas of blueberry and rhubarb. It finishes with a sweep of easygoing, dusty tannins that make the mouth juicy for more. Roast pork; grilled beef; bloomy-rind cheese. $50-plus

2007 Henry's Drive Dead Letter Office Shiraz, South Australia: No mistaking this for anything but a syrah from the Land of Oz. It's like swallowing liquid, nonsweet boysenberry jam, with whispers of chocolate and cracked black pepper. It has those tannins only syrah can sport — immense but supple. And it is so juicy. Dark meats; hearty, herbed bean or vegetable ragout. $25-$30

2007 Luigi Bosca Single Vineyard Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina: The best malbec at this price that I have sampled in many a day: much spicier and livelier than most, with color so intense it's as if it were concentrate. Zesty acidity for a malbec that is welcome at table, with terrific, come-hither scents of cocoa and black cherry. Just perfect. Fuller-flavored dishes; firm cheeses; by itself. $25

2008 Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doktor Riesling Kabinett, Moselle, Germany: A hair's breadth of sweetness framed with incisive acidity for that electricity that great German riesling always delivers. Scents and tastes of green apple. Light-bodied, but with enormous presence. Flexible with a huge range of foods, from smoked salmon, olives and pate, to any fish, pork, veal or fowl dish. $45

2009 Terras Gauda Abadia de San Campio Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain: Aromas and tastes that combine lemon and grapefruit with almonds, all reined in by bracing acidity with, nonetheless, a soft feel in the mouth. The quintessential fish wine, but also very vegetarian-friendly, especially with green, leafy plants. $18

2008 Villa del Borgo Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy: A tsunami of awful Italian pinot grigio is out there — some at much higher prices than this wine. Here's a felicitous surprise: like clear melon juice with hints of lemon and lime; terrific acidity for cleaning up that bite of food; and an appealing drink-me-in-gulps overall character. Everything from nibbles to omelets, white meat preps and by itself. $14

If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price.

Bill St. John has been teaching and writing about wine for more than 30 years.