How do you plan on deleting the ABS? Do you mean removing the entire ABS system and replacing them with SS lines running from master to calipers?

Since the actual removal of the entire ABS system will throw some codes, I'll be doing a re-plumbing of the brake lines from the master cylinder to the calibers. I'll need the non-ABS lines when I do the kit ECU swap so it's not a big deal to invest in a full set of aftermarket lines at this point.

From the out side of the bike, you will still see the ABS pump on the left side but it will not be physically connected to the braking system in any way, shape or form.

1) Acceleration is what makes this bike work. I’ve never felt some thing that pulls like this thing. And it’s a stock motor with only a Hindle slipon/decat and a Woolrich tune for U4.4 by Michael Godin at KWS. Pulled a front wheel for 100m on the back straight in 4th gear. Insanely smooth wheelie control (KTCS 3).

2) Brakes are amazing! M50’s with ABS delete and Versah pads make stopping this machine a breeze. Lifted the rear wheel multiple times and the chassis never twitched.

3) I need to do nothing more at this point. There’s so much to learn at the level it’s currently at. The chassis is smooth and predictable but slow to transition and doesn’t like to make adjustments midcorner. I didn’t make the swingarm pivot insert change due to time constraints but that’s my next move

All in all, I’m impressed with everything about the bike EXCEPT it’s turning, but that’s easily fixed. The electronics are baby butt smooth, the TC intervention was barely noticed. I understand now why this platform is so successful!

I'll let you know how my turns after this weekend with the pivot changed. I would also look into changing the rake angle with the inserts from Kawasaki. We brought mine in 0.5°. Combined with the swing arm change it should transition and turn in much better.

That last corner isn't easy to get right but very easy to get wrong! I ran wide there Saturday and though for a moment I was going to visit the gravel trap...

U4.4 is what came tuned with the bike and I got a full, unopened can with what was already in the tank. I don't mind spending the $90 per 5 gallons, because 1) I know what I'm putting in the bike 2) it's how I intend to race it so I'll stick with it for continuities sake and finally I want to treat my baby right. This is a the best automotive vehicle I've ever owned and I want to make sure I keep it running right. Fuel is a big part of that, and I think the extra few bucks per gallon is worth the peace of mind.