ebnhils wrote:... now all your weight is on the 6mil cord (or whatever you are using for the autoblock) which is much weaker than your climbing rope...

Still a 6mm cord has a breaking strength of close to 8KN. You can drink alot of beer before your body weight will break that. The only problem of having it above is if you don't know how to unweight it. Not a problem if you're used to it and have practiced it. I have seen people battle with a loaded prussik above their belay device for a LONG time on more than one occasion.

I think that the "above-the-device" crowd has a fair argument on it being slightly easier to set up. And since ease of setup and speed could be factors in deciding to use a backup, that might make it safer. Like how if your helmet is heavy and uncomfortable, you won't wear it, even if it offers great protection, and is thus less safe than a light, comfortable one that you actually wear. It's also easier to take an unknown setup (a different harness, borrowing someone else's cord, etc) and make it work.

But the main advantage of the "below-the-device" argument is, for me, that if you let go of your brake then it uses the device itself to add friction and stop you, vice simply using the knot's own friction properties. That, and the "I'm falling, I'll grab the rope" instinct which would negate the benefit in the "above-device" setup, but would strengthen your brake grip in the "below device" setup means that I vote in favor of using it below the device.

I'm also definitely in favor of extending the device in all raps.

That said, I generally don't do a backup when I'm not first on the rope. But I know I should.

- A mountain is not a checkbox to be ticked- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains- Judgment and experience are the two most important pieces of gear you own- Being honest to yourself and others about your abilities is a characteristic of experienced climbers- Courage cannot be bought at REI or carried with you in your rucksack