The bay lies in the flooded caldera of an ancient volcano which erupted only last century and chased human habitation away.

Even today you can feel the volcanic warmth in the layers of pumice in the ground beneath your boots.

Unlike the explorers who lived for weeks on a lard-based diet and who slept under animal skins in thin tents, I would return, after my momentary insight, to the luxury of a warm ship, a hearty, three-course meal and a comfortable bunk.

Yet, a modern sea voyage to the Antarctic, the planet's last great frontier, is not a cruise but an expedition.

There is still an element of adventure about it Co and your itinerary is at the whim of the winds and seas. …