It is great for handing out badges. Getting the kids (well.... the parents) to sew them on has always been a challenge. Even safety pinning them in place meant they would remain in pins for months/years. We now cut badge magic on the badges for them youth. (The pre-cut sheets are highly wasteful, as they are poorly spaced.) Some leaders that remember those days see the value of using the badge magic. Some newer leaders are more resistant, as they just see it as extra work.

The problem seems to be if they wash the uniforms before putting them in the dryer, the badges fall off. I've been telling parents to throw them in the dryer for 5-10 minutes, and most have done this and are happy with it. One parent says she ironed them on. (Yeah, I know it says not to do that.) Most parents that started out with sewing badges in place are VERY happy with badge magic.

Often corners come up and we cut small slivers to glue back down.

It does seem to leave a residue if you remove a badge and don't put one of the same size over it.

I haven't tried dry cleaning an old uniform. I will have to try this with my son's Troop uniform, now that he has moved on to Company, and report back. Has anyone else tried dry cleaning?

Don't need it with the new badges, which are iron on, except for those stupid year bars, which need badge magic or needle and thread. I pulled off my son's 4 silver bars, and put on a gold one, but couldn't get the badge magic off the shirt. Permanent stain.

I use a very specific method for ironing on the badges, though. Iron on high heat, full steam. Iron the spot, then, place the badge. Then, cover the badge with a thin cotton or cotton-blend cloth, such as a handerchief or dish towel (not terry). Then, iron away for about 30 seconds. The cloth protects the badge from melting, while making the glue hot enough to melt into the shirt's fabric. Finally, turn the sleeve inside out, and iron the back side for about 30 seconds.

Once the badge is ironed in place, it is exceptionally easy to stitch it, even on the sleeve. The old badges would have been a major pain to sew on the sleeve, as pinning them straight was really difficult.

I love the badge magic (okay, actually only "like" because it does need a few adjustments once in awhile)..
I put it on, ironed the heck out of it (I didn't actually read all the instructions!) and used the hot iron and steam method someone else mentions ..
Just tried to remove some badges, found out I should have read the instructions before I put them on! ...
Read the instructions, bought some "GOO GONE" and found it worked quite well. Took two applications and washes but it all came off.
I have to say it is definitely an easier option then sewing.
FD

Badge Magic leaves a dark stain on the new uniforms, I removed my Akela crest when I moved up to Scouts from my Red Shirt and it left a dark "shadow" on the uniform, despite using acetone to remove the crest and all of the adhesive. That being said I still really like it, although I've noticed the Badge Magic being sold by Scouts Canada is inferior to the product I bought from BSA 4-5 years ago! That stuff was much more tenacious!

The dark stain under the Badge Magic is definitely a problem. I've tried Goo Gone, lighter fluid (being careful not to spill/leak/seep to neighbouring badges), and laundry stain remover. Only managed to reduce the stain, not eliminate.

So... this IS a problem when replacing badges with something smaller. Replace 4 silvers bars with one gold, for example. Sewing those is a pain, especially now that they are ONLY sold individually and not attached together. For me, I'm only putting on gold bars now. Not really a solution for youth, for which we don't bother with (and neither do a lot of groups around, which is a bit of a shame.)

Let me follow up that horrible idea with a really good one...

As for the big leader name tags (Akela, Rusty, etc.), I recommend sewing on the small spare button that came with the uniform shirt. Use a thread colour that matches the front (center near the top) and sew the button to the back. Wear the name crest by simply buttoning it to the shirt pocket flap. The weight of the crest holds the flap down. Easy to remove if you hold multiple roles, change roles/names, wash, or want to remove it for an out-of-group event. No stress, no mess!

Since the new badges were introduced, we have advised our Cubs and Scouts that the iron-on feature is for placement of the badge only. It allows badges to be perfectly placed (as opposed to pinning the old embroidered badges), but it is not a long-term fastening of the badge to the shirt. One wash, and the badges start to come off. Please see my method for ironing on the badges my post above.

After the badge is ironed on, you must stitch it in place.

Badge magic is a different thing altogether. It is a much stronger glue that melts into the fabric of the shirt, and cannot be removed. I have tried solvents like Goo Gone, and reduced the stain, but not eliminated it. I do like Badge Magic for doing those nasty little year bars, which are very hard to stitch, or the award flashes on adult uniforms, but only when you know you won't ever be removing that badge. I don't like using it on the regular badges, as ironing and then stitching the edges is better. However, I have used Badge Magic on camp fire blankets, using a small piece at the center of a crest to hold it in place while the sewing machine stitches it. Works great for that (again, the badges will never be removed (on purpose) from the blanket.

I don't think either method is permanent, but badge magic is definitely superior to the iron-on glue. Needle and thread, whether mechanized or not, is the only sure-fire way to do it. We have sewing nights a couple of times a year, just to get the badges on properly, as few homes have sewers any more.