A couple of weekends ago, Nick and I found ourselves in Cologne, Germany (Köln to the natives) for a concert. Thanks to the Thalys high-speed train network, the trip from Paris was a short three hours, allowing us to spend the better part of two days eating and drinking our way through the city’s many beer halls. We arrived in time for lunch, and after finding our hotel, headed straight for the Päffgen Hausbrauerei.

The beers (Kölsch, and Kölsch alone) are brought around on deep trays with slots to hold the narrow glasses. The waiter keeps a tally of how many you’ve ordered on your coaster.

I had sauerbraten, a dish of braised beef in a sweet-and-sour sauce traditionally thickened with ground gingersnaps. It came with potato dumplings and applesauce. Classic.

Nick ordered the bratwurst, sold in lengths of three-quarters of a meter. It was served with a tiny tureen of spicy mustard.