Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.

Getting There

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.

Probably the most popular route on the Royal Tower. Thanks to a striking line, mostly moderate climbing, and, most importantly, inclusion in Puryear's book, makes it easy to understand why. As noted, I would imagine the majority of parties stop at the top of the rock, but continuing to the summit makes for a really rewarding route. This, of course, requires carrying boots and tools all the way up there. At any rate, a very worthwhile route with very fun climbing in spots and amazing views. Easy ...[more]Browse More Classics in AK