'''“It would be unfortunate if I had to leave a garrison here”. - Darth Vader (ESB)'''

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The Stormtroopers were the main force during the capture and interrogation of the Rebels, Han Solo, Princess Leia Organa, Chewbacca and their droid C3PO on the Cloud City of Bespin.

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These highly trained elite soldiers cannot be bribed or swayed from their dedication to the Empire.

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The Stormtroopers are not only the first strike team units sent into critical combat situations, but are also assigned to keep a watchful eye over the Imperial officers who might betray the Emperor’s cause.

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Garrisons of Stormtroopers are stationed on worlds throughout the Galaxy to keep order, and stop any Rebel uprisings.

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Even though the Stormtroopers are an independent unit, having their own command structure, ranking system and support facilities, they still serve on Imperial vessels, and operate along side the Imperial army and navy.

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The Stormtroopers are shielded by hardened, plastoid,composite armor, fitted over a black environmental body glove, with a built-in life support system. The imposing white armor not only protects them from harsh environments, but also gives limited protection from blaster fire.

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Stormtroopers carry an array of equipment and weapons ,wielding blaster rifles and pistols with great skill.

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The Stormtroopers, having the combined training and battle tactics of both an Army soldier and a Marine, makes them highly adaptable and a very skilled force.

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Rebellion slang terms and nicknames for Stormtroopers:

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Whitehats

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Plastic Soldiers

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Boys in White

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Plastic Boys

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Stormies

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}}

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{{CRLdetinfo|File:First_Imperial_Stormtrooper_Detachment_Logo.png|Stormtrooper, Empire Strikes Back|TK|First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment|Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back|Stormtroopers are the backbone of the Galactic Empire. Renowned for their accuracy, stormtroopers served on the Bespin raid.}}

*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

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*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

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*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

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*Lenses are a flat green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

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*Lenses are a flat smoke or green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

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*The gray "ear" bars have three of four bumps, with a black outline. The bumps may or may not be painted.

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*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

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*Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.

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*Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

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*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

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*Tube stripes are medium blue, should be 13 per side, but can be 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

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*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black

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*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

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*Aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black.

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*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

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*Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painting.|

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*Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted.

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*Ears should have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

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*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

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*Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.

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*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

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*Correct 'hovi mic' aerator tips.

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*Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications. |

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*Ears shall have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

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*Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted.

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*Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray.

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*Ear bars shall have four bumps only, not three.

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*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

*FX helmets are not allowed.|

*FX helmets are not allowed.|

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*MRCE helmets are not allowed.

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*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.

*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.

*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.

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*Ear bars should have only one or two bumps painted in black.

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*Ear bars shall have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).

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*Tears/traps should be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painting. }}

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*Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|

Line 31:

Line 77:

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulders.jpeg|Shoulder Straps|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulders.jpeg|Shoulder Straps|

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*These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.|

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*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.|

*No visible rivets are allowed.|

*No visible rivets are allowed.|

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*These must free float in back.

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*These shall be glued in front.

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*These must be glued in front.

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*These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

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*Straps need to be connected to the white under strap connecting the chest/back with an elastic band.}}

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*Straps shall not have a white elastic band securing the shoulder straps to either the chest/back.}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulder.jpeg|Shoulder Bells|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shoulder.jpeg|Shoulder Bells|

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*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.| | }}

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*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.|

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*Ideally no shoulder bell straps across the biceps.If there is a shoulder bell strap, it shall not be visible across the biceps. | }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_biceps.jpeg|Biceps|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_biceps.jpeg|Biceps|

Line 49:

Line 96:

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_handplates.jpeg|Hand Plates|

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*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.| |

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*These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates and not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove.| |

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*Hand guards should be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.}}

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*If rubber gloves are worn the hand plates shall be affixed via an elastic strap over the palm.

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*If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black cotton, with a five point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, and needs to be double stitched at each point.

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}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|

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* Black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.| |

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*Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. | |

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* Gloves should be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves

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*Gloves shall be black rubber or rubber- like chemical gloves or black silk or satin.

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}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_chest.jpeg|Chest|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_chest.jpeg|Chest|

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* Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.| |

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*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. | |

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* Chest and back should be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

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*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

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*Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback

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}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_back.jpeg|Back|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_back.jpeg|Back|

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* Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate.| |

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*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |

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* Back plate must have no or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

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*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

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*Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

*Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.| | }}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_ab.jpeg|Abdomen Plate|

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* The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. |

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*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16"(11mm) in diameter. |

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* Armor side gaps should be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams.|

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*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2"(12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.|

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* The ab plate and kidney plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a single visible seam line.

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*Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

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* Rivets on the left side of the ab plates: a total of three rivets equally spaced out along the depth of the armour and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.

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*Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

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* A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate should be present.

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*A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

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*A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

}}

}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg|Kidney Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg|Kidney Plate|

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* It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.|

* A separate kidney plate must be present, split from the butt plate.|

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*Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

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* 3 rivets must be present on the left side of the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armour and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.}}

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}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg|Butt Plate|

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* It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should line up below the bottom of the belt with with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.|

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*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate. |

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*A separate butt plate is required.| }}

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.|

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*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

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}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_belt.jpeg|Belt|

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* Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end.

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*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

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* Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3 to 3.5" wide. The color is be white to off-white.

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*The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

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* The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|

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*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.|

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* Belt must be canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl are not acceptable.

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*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.|

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* There should be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end.|

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*Drop boxes are closed in the back.

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* Drop boxes are closed in the back.

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*The corners of the of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}

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* The corners of the belt should be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_detonator.jpeg|Thermal Detonator|

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* (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with white end caps and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.|

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*(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

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* The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.| }}

*The thigh armour is closed in the back. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |

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*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.

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*The thigh armor may be connected by brads/split rivets, but not by standard rivets.

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*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |

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*The bottom corners of the belt corners must be rounded off.}}

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*The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

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*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_shins.jpeg|Lower Legs|

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* Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the left greave.| |

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*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

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* There should be no visible rivets used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}

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*The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net | |

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*Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|

{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_boots.jpeg|Boots|

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* White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not acceptable.| |

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*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |

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* There should be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

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*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

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* Boots should be lightly scuffed.}}

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*Boots shall be lightly scuffed.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_holster.jpeg|Holster|

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*Holster is worn on right side of belt. Holster will be made of completely black leather or leather-like material and be worn on the right and affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).|

*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

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*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. |

*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

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*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

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*Two greeblies on the left rear area.

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*Three studs on the right rear area.

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*Add two scope block greeblies.

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*Remove front bayonet muzzle disk.

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*Remove magazine housing parts.

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*Remove D-Ring mount.

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*Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip.|

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*Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|

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* Made of black leather or leather-like material.|

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* Holster must be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead with no loops covering the outside of the belt.

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* The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom, instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.| }}

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{{CRLsubheading|Costume Accessories:}}

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{{CRLfooter|FISD_CRL|T}}

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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_blaster1.jpeg|BlasTech E-11|

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* Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.|

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* Folding stock (does not need to function).

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* A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present.

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* D-ring mounted on the rear.

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* Correct style scope.

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* Two power cylinders on the magazine.

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* Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).

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* Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. * Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes).

“It would be unfortunate if I had to leave a garrison here”. - Darth Vader (ESB)

The Stormtroopers were the main force during the capture and interrogation of the Rebels, Han Solo, Princess Leia Organa, Chewbacca and their droid C3PO on the Cloud City of Bespin.

These highly trained elite soldiers cannot be bribed or swayed from their dedication to the Empire.

The Stormtroopers are not only the first strike team units sent into critical combat situations, but are also assigned to keep a watchful eye over the Imperial officers who might betray the Emperor’s cause.

Garrisons of Stormtroopers are stationed on worlds throughout the Galaxy to keep order, and stop any Rebel uprisings.

Even though the Stormtroopers are an independent unit, having their own command structure, ranking system and support facilities, they still serve on Imperial vessels, and operate along side the Imperial army and navy.

The Stormtroopers are shielded by hardened, plastoid,composite armor, fitted over a black environmental body glove, with a built-in life support system. The imposing white armor not only protects them from harsh environments, but also gives limited protection from blaster fire.

Stormtroopers carry an array of equipment and weapons ,wielding blaster rifles and pistols with great skill.

The Stormtroopers, having the combined training and battle tactics of both an Army soldier and a Marine, makes them highly adaptable and a very skilled force.

Rebellion slang terms and nicknames for Stormtroopers:

Whitehats

Plastic Soldiers

Boys in White

Plastic Boys

Stormies

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red.

Those armor pieces without blue and/ or red text are by default considered the highest level.

Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.

The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.

Any uncertainties or questionable aspects of the submitted costume should be brought to the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the legion forum.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

HelmetFor 501st approval:

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

Lenses are a flat smoke or green sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

Tube stripes are medium blue, should be 13 per side, but can be 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.

Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted.

Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.

Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.

Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Ears shall have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.

Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted.

Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray.

Ear bars shall have four bumps only, not three.

Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

FX helmets are not allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.

ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.

Ear bars shall have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).

Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.

Neck SealFor 501st approval:

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Shoulder StrapsFor 501st approval:

These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

For level two certification (if applicable):

No visible rivets are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

These shall be glued in front.

These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

Straps shall not have a white elastic band securing the shoulder straps to either the chest/back.

Shoulder BellsFor 501st approval:

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Ideally no shoulder bell straps across the biceps.If there is a shoulder bell strap, it shall not be visible across the biceps.

For level three certification (if applicable):

BicepsFor 501st approval:

Biceps are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

ForearmsFor 501st approval:

Forearms are fully closed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Hand PlatesFor 501st approval:

These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates and not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

If rubber gloves are worn the hand plates shall be affixed via an elastic strap over the palm.

If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black cotton, with a five point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, and needs to be double stitched at each point.

GlovesFor 501st approval:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Gloves shall be black rubber or rubber- like chemical gloves or black silk or satin.

ChestFor 501st approval:

Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, the bottom and sides shall be trimmed and a new return edge shall be added at the bottom to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look. See the tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-chestback

BackFor 501st approval:

Back plate contains a "O II" design.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

Under SuitFor 501st approval:

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Abdomen PlateFor 501st approval:

The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16"(11mm) in diameter.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2"(12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.

Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.

A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Kidney PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

Butt PlateFor 501st approval:

A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.

For level two certification (if applicable):

.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

BeltFor 501st approval:

Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).

The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white.

The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

For level two certification (if applicable):

There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Drop boxes are closed in the back.

The corners of the of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Thermal DetonatorFor 501st approval:

(A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.

The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Lower LegsFor 501st approval:

Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.

The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.

BootsFor 501st approval:

White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

Boots shall be lightly scuffed.

HolsterFor 501st approval:

Holster is worn on right side of belt. Holster will be made of completely black leather or leather-like material and be worn on the right and affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).

For level two certification (if applicable):

.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

BlasTech E-11 (canon)For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

No ammo counter shall be present.

D-ring mounted on the rear.

Correct style scope.

No power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

BlasTech E-11 (promo)For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

No ammo counter shall be present.

Correct style scope.

No power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

Two greeblies on the left rear area.

Three studs on the right rear area.

Add two scope block greeblies.

Remove front bayonet muzzle disk.

Remove magazine housing parts.

Remove D-Ring mount.

Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip.

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

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