See it in action:

Table Top Fasteners

Overview

These Table Top Fasteners provide a sturdy connection between the tabletop and apron, while still allowing the top to expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes. This prevents cracks from forming over time. The table clips slip neatly into a groove in the apron and attach to the tabletop with a single screw-simple, efficient and strong. Heavy gauge steel ensures a sturdy connection. Tabletop fasteners are screwed to underside of table and hook into a 3/32" slot on the apron, which allows for expansion and contraction of tabletop. Table top clips are made of extra heavy #A gauge cold rolled steel with a bright steel finish.

BEST ANSWER:While the clip is designed for 1/2 inch (8/16) from top, I make the dado 9/16 from the top of apron to keep the tabletop nice and tight against it. Made about 10 tables and a desk this way and have no problems with wood movement, i.e. no cracks. Table tops have been, walnut, cherry and birds eye maple. Legs mostly cherry. Good luck.

BEST ANSWER:While the clip is designed for 1/2 inch (8/16) from top, I make the dado 9/16 from the top of apron to keep the tabletop nice and tight against it. Made about 10 tables and a desk this way and have no problems with wood movement, i.e. no cracks. Table tops have been, walnut, cherry and birds eye maple. Legs mostly cherry. Good luck.

I don't use a measurement. Locate one fastener in place. Life the non-screw end up a little to allow for the screw to pull the top and apron together. Mark where the fastener touches and cut the grove there.

BEST ANSWER:Yes! You make a slot 1/4 inch down from the top of the frame and these fasteners mount to the table top at one end. Then the other end sits in the slot on the frame boards so that the top can expand and contract without stress. Be sure to put the fasteners on the inside of the frame so they remain out of sight!

BEST ANSWER:Yes! You make a slot 1/4 inch down from the top of the frame and these fasteners mount to the table top at one end. Then the other end sits in the slot on the frame boards so that the top can expand and contract without stress. Be sure to put the fasteners on the inside of the frame so they remain out of sight!

I build a lot of tables and use fasteners. However, I am not quite sure what you are proposing. Is your table top allready glued together and you want to secure it to the base or are you trying to use them to fasten boards together?

If I've planked boards together, 2x12s, with pocket holes and I use these fasteners, will it help the general issue of wood separation of the planked boards? I'm trying to minimize the table top from separating overtime... I know I can't completely stop it from occurring. Does that make any sense?

I assume then the top is to gether. So answer is yes. If you install the clips properly it dhould allow the top to expand and contract without separating. Do you intend on gluing the planks as well as pocket screws? As long as there are no splits in the planks you should not have any problems

So I have been trying out a new method. After I drill the pocket holes I put glue in the cut out, and then insert the screws. Not sure how much extra grip this will provide, but that's the only really glueing I'm doing. I put about 15 screws on each joint, for a 5 ft board. So with a table top that's four, 2x12x5ft, I have 45 screws attaching the boards. And I'm usually putting a good amount of pocket holes going into the table top from the bottom supports and aprons.

I am not sure if the glue adds much more grip. Although I typically do not use 2 X 12 for tops, I use glue on all my edges after they have been jointed. My experience with glue is if you have good mating surfaces, the joint is stronger than the board. Anyway, sounds like you have a plan. Good luck. Let me know if I can help in the future.

So long as you have jointed edges you can just wood glue and clamp the boards together. Edge gluing is extremely strong. And it will move as one unite so expanding and contracting won't affect it. Now if you are trying to correct for slightly bowed edges, then it would make sense to use pocket screws to pull it together.

BEST ANSWER:The bracket is 1/2 inch from the top of the apron to the slot. I make my slot 9/16 from the top of apron to insure a very tight fit. I have made 20 tables with multiple wood types using this bracket with no problems, i.e. no cracking due to wood movement. Best, Bill

BEST ANSWER:The bracket is 1/2 inch from the top of the apron to the slot. I make my slot 9/16 from the top of apron to insure a very tight fit. I have made 20 tables with multiple wood types using this bracket with no problems, i.e. no cracking due to wood movement. Best, Bill

For width, set table saw fence 9/16 inch from blade and a depth of 1/4 inch. Run inside of side pieces face down thru saw to give you the groove on inside face. The bracket is designed for 1/2 inch width. By setting it to 9/16 will give you a nice tight fit between the table sides and top and still allow for movement. I've made over 10 tables with these brackets with multiple species of wood and no problems.

I just used a biscuit joiner to create the grooves. Ideally you would use a table saw and make a slot the length of the board. I did not have a table saw available to me at the time so biscuit joiner it was. There are detailed measurements on the site for these fasteners to find out what the drop ect. should be.

What is the best style of table top fastener for high humidity outdoor climates? The circle 8 style (Rockler item no. 21650) or the Z style clip (Rockler item #: 34215 )? Do any of these come in stainless steel to avoid rust?

BEST ANSWER:I usually cut a continuous 3/8 " deep, at least, groove with a thin kerf blade on the tablesaw, top inside of the apron. Haven't split a top or had any fasteners pull out of the groove yet. Done a bunch of them this way.

BEST ANSWER:I usually cut a continuous 3/8 " deep, at least, groove with a thin kerf blade on the tablesaw, top inside of the apron. Haven't split a top or had any fasteners pull out of the groove yet. Done a bunch of them this way.

I make the grooves 1/4 inch deep and 9/16 to the top of grooves. The bracket is designed for 1/2 inch to top of groove. The extra 1/16 inch makes for a tight fit tabletop to base.I have made over 10 tables with both same and different wood species for the base and tabletops with no problems with wood movement using these brackets. They work fine.

It would be very unusual for a table top to expand on indoor furniture. I have always been a little worried about that, but after more that 30 years of building solid wood tables, I have only had tops shrink. If you really expect your top to expand because it's outside or something, just slide the fastener back from the bottom of the slot a bit.

I believe the manufacturer recommends a 1/4 inch deep groove. Place the fastener so that there is about 1/16 inch of free space between the end of the fastener and the bottom of the groove. This way the top can expand and contract without cracking or buckling.

So if I use these to attach a table top will the customer be able to pick the table by the ends and move it without fear of the table top coming off the frame? Or flip the table sideways to fit it through a a doorway, etc?

BEST ANSWER:I don't believe the fastener is the real issue at hand. It would be the weight of the table and the screws used. Also a big factor is if the holes were oversized or split because of not predrilling will weaken the security of the fastener. Lastly the type of wood will play a huge part.. something soft like pine may not hold as well as a hardwood. If you had a large amount of the fasteners I myself would not be concerned, if a few on each end... I wouldn't trust it. I wouldn't fear the z clips bending at all, especially sideways.. best of luck

BEST ANSWER:I don't believe the fastener is the real issue at hand. It would be the weight of the table and the screws used. Also a big factor is if the holes were oversized or split because of not predrilling will weaken the security of the fastener. Lastly the type of wood will play a huge part.. something soft like pine may not hold as well as a hardwood. If you had a large amount of the fasteners I myself would not be concerned, if a few on each end... I wouldn't trust it. I wouldn't fear the z clips bending at all, especially sideways.. best of luck

You will not have a problem lifting or moving table. Depending on length of table top I use two clamps on long side and one on each end. I also have a five foot rectangular table with 3 on side and 2 on short side dimension. Have used these clamps for years with no problems....other than they are now made in China.

I used these fasteners to hold a table top to a desk that I made. I think these fasteners are good for holding the table top in place, but I would not rely on them to hold my desk if I had to move it. If I had to move my desk, I would disconnect the top first.

BEST ANSWER:The instructions call for a slot that is 3/32" wide x 5/16" deep but you can certainly make the groove a little wider. Something like an 1/8" wide like item #48003. If the table is not put together yet, you can always use a table saw to make the groove as well.

BEST ANSWER:The instructions call for a slot that is 3/32" wide x 5/16" deep but you can certainly make the groove a little wider. Something like an 1/8" wide like item #48003. If the table is not put together yet, you can always use a table saw to make the groove as well.

you do not need to buy any router bit at all you can use a standard circular saw blade or table saw blade to cut the necessary kerf . just run the apron Boards of your table through the table saw with the Blade Set to an appropriate height or use a straight edge and a hand-held circular saw .

My fasteners are installed in a 3/32" slot that I cut with my table saw blade and the slot runs the length of the table top. I didn't bother cutting individual slots. Router with 3/32" bit would also work.

BEST ANSWER:I just measured a few spares. The screws are 5/8 inch long from the bottom of the head. The bracket is 1/16 inch thick. You cannot use this bracket with 1/2 inch top, 1/16 inch too long. You could buy shorter screws! Brackets work fine, I have used them on 10 tables with not problems...3/4 inch tops.

BEST ANSWER:I just measured a few spares. The screws are 5/8 inch long from the bottom of the head. The bracket is 1/16 inch thick. You cannot use this bracket with 1/2 inch top, 1/16 inch too long. You could buy shorter screws! Brackets work fine, I have used them on 10 tables with not problems...3/4 inch tops.

BEST ANSWER:Although I can't say for sure, these clips appeared to be made of basic steel. They did not appear to have any other coating that would protect them from an outdoor environment. That being said, they were great for fastening my table top to the table frame.

BEST ANSWER:Although I can't say for sure, these clips appeared to be made of basic steel. They did not appear to have any other coating that would protect them from an outdoor environment. That being said, they were great for fastening my table top to the table frame.

The fastener datasheet indicates the distance from the apron to the center of the drilled hole should be 9/16 however I believe it should be 11/16 or the slot needs to be cut deeper. As the diagram is, you're allowing 1 3/16" of room for a fastener that is 1 1/4". Am I missing something?

BEST ANSWER:I agree that the datasheet is incorrect. I don't think that the datasheet was available when I used these fasteners.

My suggestion is that you not try to measure to find the location of the mounting screws. After creating the slot, turn the table upside down. Position the base on the table top where you want it and clamp or otherwise secure it in place. Then position the fasteners, making sure that they do not bottom our in the slot so that the top can move. Mark the centers of the holes, drill the holes (don't drill through your top!) and install the fasteners with the screws.

BEST ANSWER:I agree that the datasheet is incorrect. I don't think that the datasheet was available when I used these fasteners.

My suggestion is that you not try to measure to find the location of the mounting screws. After creating the slot, turn the table upside down. Position the base on the table top where you want it and clamp or otherwise secure it in place. Then position the fasteners, making sure that they do not bottom our in the slot so that the top can move. Mark the centers of the holes, drill the holes (don't drill through your top!) and install the fasteners with the screws.

I'm building a 40"x96" Fancy X Farmhouse Table based on plans that are readily available on line. I'm concerned about table top cracking and I'd like to know how to attach the top securely. Which fastener would you recommend and where and how many should be installed? Just at the ends or also along the center support? On one or both sides of the center support?

BEST ANSWER:Do not glue top to base because that would not allow expansion and contraction with seasonal changes. I've used "table top fasteners" and have had no cracking problems because they allow some give for expansion and contraction. Install all around both the ends and both sides, but not the center support.

This table has a 36"long x 3.5"wide support on each end of the table and a single 2x4" support down the middle of the table. (There is no skirt under this table) Just to be clear.... When you suggest around both ends and both sides.... Do you mean just around the 36"x3.5"support located at both ends?

I meant that you use "table top fasteners" along both end supports (attach to inside surface). I also meant that you use them as well on the front and back "skirts" which I now know you don't have. Since there are no skirts, I DO RECOMMEND using fasteners along that "single support" as well as the ends. If you would have had "skirts" and "single support," I would recommend fasteners ONLY on the "skirts" and not the "single support."

You are welcome. I hope the fasteners work for you as they have for me.

You probably know, so just as a reminder, remember to cut the grove in the support boards for the fasteners BEFORE you attach them to anything. And make sure you cut the grove on the correct side. One time I cut the grove on the outer side (instead of the inner side) of one of the sides of a 6 foot high solid cherry cabinet I was making. After correcting the problem, the cabinet ended up 5 feet 11 1/2 inches high. :)

BEST ANSWER:Do not glue top to base because that would not allow expansion and contraction with seasonal changes. I've used "table top fasteners" and have had no cracking problems because they allow some give for expansion and contraction. Install all around both the ends and both sides, but not the center support.

This table has a 36"long x 3.5"wide support on each end of the table and a single 2x4" support down the middle of the table. (There is no skirt under this table) Just to be clear.... When you suggest around both ends and both sides.... Do you mean just around the 36"x3.5"support located at both ends?

I meant that you use "table top fasteners" along both end supports (attach to inside surface). I also meant that you use them as well on the front and back "skirts" which I now know you don't have. Since there are no skirts, I DO RECOMMEND using fasteners along that "single support" as well as the ends. If you would have had "skirts" and "single support," I would recommend fasteners ONLY on the "skirts" and not the "single support."

You are welcome. I hope the fasteners work for you as they have for me.

You probably know, so just as a reminder, remember to cut the grove in the support boards for the fasteners BEFORE you attach them to anything. And make sure you cut the grove on the correct side. One time I cut the grove on the outer side (instead of the inner side) of one of the sides of a 6 foot high solid cherry cabinet I was making. After correcting the problem, the cabinet ended up 5 feet 11 1/2 inches high. :)

How far into the groove do you seat the clip? If it is a less humid time of year - I'm guessing you seat it in not all of the way so that the table can expand and clips can move deeper into the groove when it is more humid and wood expands? And conversely, if it is a more humid time of year you seat the clip tight into the groove so that when the wood contracts the clip has room to pull out a bit without falling out?

Julie, I live in Pennsylvania which is humid in August....but not like Florida and dry in winter. I have used this clip on multiple tables with multiple species of wood. I cut my groove 1/4' deep. I curt the groove 9/16" below the tabletop bottom surface. I have had no movement problems in 15 years of use. Best, Bill

BEST ANSWER:Used them on a 3 and a half by 8 and a half foot table but I only put them on the cross pieces to allow the table to expand. I only used one pack and they hold great. My table top is solid cherry so it's very hard. I think the strength of the wood is more important than the brackets. The brackets are very strong. I believe there were 8 clips in a pack.

BEST ANSWER:Used them on a 3 and a half by 8 and a half foot table but I only put them on the cross pieces to allow the table to expand. I only used one pack and they hold great. My table top is solid cherry so it's very hard. I think the strength of the wood is more important than the brackets. The brackets are very strong. I believe there were 8 clips in a pack.

There are 8 clips and screws to a pack. However, they don't really have to hold any weight since they are under the table top. They hold the top to the frame rather than hold any weight. If you place them every 10 inches you can be sure that you could pick the table up by the top and they will hold! I hope this answers your question.

Reviews

When a project cannot be &quot;sealed&quot; air tight with multiple layers of paint or varnish, such that you know in advance there will be expansion and contraction, then these fasteners are the best approach. To maintain the same finish as some beds, I could only use two coats of varnish on this cedar log vanity, so I attached the tops with 16 of these fasteners. Instead of cutting a saw kerf early in your project, make a grove for the fastener by using your biscuit joiner near the end when everything has been assembled just waiting for the top.

I've used these fasteners for years, as most of my projects are solid wood and need to be able to move. I try not to use wood with a moisture content above 8% (I live in Arizona). Have not had one tabletop fail since using these fasteners and monitoring moisture content with the moisture meter. Highly recommend these to anyone working with solid, glued up tops.

Nice product Well made and with a finish on the brackets and included screws. I used them on a dining room table that is in the process of being finished. I had to experiment with the height of the dadoes to get the correct tension. I used a plate jointer to make the cuts. It would be nice if Rockler gave some instructions for the dado dimension and for suggested spacing along the rails. Editor's note: See the link under the technical downloads heading in this offer for this dimensional info.

Haven't put the table top on the legs yet but made the slot in the aprons and it's looking very good. Definitely the way to go to secure the top and allow for natural expansion and contraction of the wood top.

THIS IS ABOUT THE BEST WAY TO ATTACH TABLE TOPS WHEN USING SOLID STOCK. THE CLIPS ALLOW THE WOOD TO EXPAND AND CONTRACT WITH TEMP AND HUMIDITY CHANGES.OTHER PLACES SELL THESE BUT REQUIRE BUYING LARGE QUANTITIES AND DO NOT COME WITH SCREWS

All the hardware from Rockler that I have used has been excellent! from bed and table hardware and down the list. Your promotions and product presentations! from search engine links to your web site to catalog are spot on! clear descriptions and valuable suggestions to think about. My recent buy of corner brackets for table legsused the 34303 style and the table top fasteners 34215 both taught a lesson and set an example in disciplining my enormous 7'x4' &quot;Pacifica&quot; dining table and two indestructible benches. Satisfication!!

These clips are well made and do an excellent job of attaching table top to its base in manner that allows the top to expand and contract with seasonal changes in humidity without being constrained by the base. The clips are strong and easily installed.

These fasteners are simple but exactly what the doctor ordered for putting on my table top. I installed 6 in a matter of 10 minutes and &quot;Voila&quot; the table was looking great with no fear of expansion problems.

These worked perfectly for me and were very easy to use. If you did not originally cut a slot in your boards (like myself) you can use a biscuit joiner to make slots for these and that works perfectly as well.

Used for a plant stand project I recently built to attach the top of the stand. Worked perfectly. These are very hard to find in my part of the world, as are many &quot;rare&quot; hardware items, since [home center] have taken over the market. I couldn't even find them at my old-standby woodworking shop. Thanks, Rockler.