December 2007

12/16/2007

"Have you seen the Champs-Elyses?" My friend asked as we walked to the George V metro.
"Sure," I said as carelessly.
She looked at me with suspicion, as if to say, "Geez, Alice, I knew you were blas, but I didn't know you were this jaded."
As we neared the metro, we were intensely locked into conversation about her recent encounter which involved removal of great lingerie and a man who lives too far away.
Then, I dropped out of the conversation, retreating as if a Vespa was gunning for me.
"What's the matter?" she cried.
"It's beautiful!"
"Thank God," she said, " I was worried about you."
I had seen the Champs, but not with the sun turned off. It was all decked out in gorgeousness, like an elaborate fireworks display; shooting and dripping all over the bare limbs of the Rue's trees as if draped in electric blue living, jumping bean like icicles.
We tucked into the Metro and sped to the 15th.
In case you had any doubt, don't. It's damned expensive over there if you play your reservations properly, food and drink can work in your favor. Like at Le Dirigeable
Because the wine list was so damned good, I forgave the fact that Le Dirigeable (37, Rue Alleray +33 1 45 32 01 54) had sterile atmosphere and surly service. I ordered the 2006 Philippe Pacalet Bourgogne (32 euro) and at the sake of repeating myself, it was kick ass.
Even though I had visited Philippe a few times I never tasted his simple bourgogne, just his grander offerings. At first I was a little self-conscious. My friend sipped. Could this wine impress the wine novice (but lingerie pro) I was dining with? I loved it but could she understand it? Good question. It's not exactly a wine that comes around to grab you by the throat
Now, remember, I had just arrived in Paris after spending time with a domaine who airbrushes the tannins out of their wines. I licked up each and every luscious stemmy tannin greedily, savoring their subtle grit on my tongue and savoring the hints of roses and ink.
And if my friend didn’t immediately understand it, who could blame her? After all I insisted on the herring!
The little salad I ordered was perfectly yummy. The herring salad was formed into the shape of a Fes, with endive and potatoes. The fish were smoked, more like kippers, (reminiscent of the lovely smoked thumbs of oily fish I ate on Islay). But with the burgundy? A disaster. I didn’t care. Whatever. And it was a great lesson for my friend in bad wine and food pairings.
But, I did try to get a decanter. I was eager for her approval, for a convert, for her to say, "So these are the wines you talk about. Gorgeous!" But no decanter arrived. Still, by the time the herring melted into the next course, pumpkin soup--- creamy, pure tasting pumpkin soup dotted with crunchy flavorful chestnuts and then into the cheese (albeit cold), she got the wine. She really got it.

"Have you seen the Champs-Elyses?" My friend asked as we walked to the George V metro.
"Sure," I said as carelessly.
She looked at me with suspicion, as if to say, "Geez, Alice, I knew you were blas, but I didn't know you were this jaded."
As we neared the metro, we were intensely locked into conversation about her recent encounter which involved removal of great lingerie and a man who lives too far away.
Then, I dropped out of the conversation, retreating as if a Vespa was gunning for me.
"What's the matter?" she cried.
"It's beautiful!"
"Thank God," she said, " I was worried about you."
I had seen the Champs, but not with the sun turned off. It was all decked out in gorgeousness, like an elaborate fireworks display; shooting and dripping all over the bare limbs of the Rue's trees as if draped in electric blue living, jumping bean like icicles.
We tucked into the Metro and sped to the 15th.
In case you had any doubt, don't. It's damned expensive over there if you play your reservations properly, food and drink can work in your favor. Like at Le Dirigeable
Because the wine list was so damned good, I forgave the fact that Le Dirigeable (37, Rue Alleray +33 1 45 32 01 54) had sterile atmosphere and surly service. I ordered the 2006 Philippe Pacalet Bourgogne (32 euro) and at the sake of repeating myself, it was kick ass.
Even though I had visited Philippe a few times I never tasted his simple bourgogne, just his grander offerings. At first I was a little self-conscious. My friend sipped. Could this wine impress the wine novice (but lingerie pro) I was dining with? I loved it but could she understand it? Good question. It's not exactly a wine that comes around to grab you by the throat
Now, remember, I had just arrived in Paris after spending time with a domaine who airbrushes the tannins out of their wines. I licked up each and every luscious stemmy tannin greedily, savoring their subtle grit on my tongue and savoring the hints of roses and ink.
And if my friend didn’t immediately understand it, who could blame her? After all I insisted on the herring!
The little salad I ordered was perfectly yummy. The herring salad was formed into the shape of a Fes, with endive and potatoes. The fish were smoked, more like kippers, (reminiscent of the lovely smoked thumbs of oily fish I ate on Islay). But with the burgundy? A disaster. I didn’t care. Whatever. And it was a great lesson for my friend in bad wine and food pairings.
But, I did try to get a decanter. I was eager for her approval, for a convert, for her to say, "So these are the wines you talk about. Gorgeous!" But no decanter arrived. Still, by the time the herring melted into the next course, pumpkin soup--- creamy, pure tasting pumpkin soup dotted with crunchy flavorful chestnuts and then into the cheese (albeit cold), she got the wine. She really got it.

12/15/2007

I was really flattered when Tom Wark asked me to do give an interview, a BLOGGERVIEW, for his gutsy blog Fermentation.
Here's the URL.
http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2007/12/bloggerview-15.html
For some reason I can't get it activated properly.
I love that series, a little like he's playing James Lipton from Inside the Actor's Studio for wine bloggers. You should really check out the others he's tapped such as the Californian vigneron in the Rhone, Amy Lillard, Eric Asimov (very fun) and Tyler Coleman aka Dr. Vino, who answered the question: who else do you read so very much more diplomatically than I did.

I was really flattered when Tom Wark asked me to do give an interview, a BLOGGERVIEW, for his gutsy blog Fermentation.
Here's the URL.
http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2007/12/bloggerview-15.html
For some reason I can't get it activated properly.
I love that series, a little like he's playing James Lipton from Inside the Actor's Studio for wine bloggers. You should really check out the others he's tapped such as the Californian vigneron in the Rhone, Amy Lillard, Eric Asimov (very fun) and Tyler Coleman aka Dr. Vino, who answered the question: who else do you read so very much more diplomatically than I did.

12/12/2007

There was supposed to be a transit strike (again) in Paris and I am sweating it out. Will I get to the airport or not? Cliff hanger. (no strike, but northeast 'weather' put me on an early flight.)
Meanwhile, upon arrival in Paris after Burgundy I ate at the Le Dirigeable in the 15th.
Don't go unless you have to or you are in the neighborhood.
Food is actually great, and so is the wine list, but noisy, lousy atmosphere, and service and the cheese was cold. Oh, don't I sound cranky? Yes.
The one great thing was the 2006 Pacalet Bourgogne, even more delicious after it was open for a while (needed a decanter we couldn't get)
And if someone finds out which Domaine in Chambolle (de Vogue?) run by either one woman or two sisters, is truly up for sale, drop me a line? Maybe we can all chip in for the supposed 40 million euro price tag and join the foreign rush to buy a fancy domaine.
Off to Pierre Jancou's Racines to drink.

There was supposed to be a transit strike (again) in Paris and I am sweating it out. Will I get to the airport or not? Cliff hanger. (no strike, but northeast 'weather' put me on an early flight.)
Meanwhile, upon arrival in Paris after Burgundy I ate at the Le Dirigeable in the 15th.
Don't go unless you have to or you are in the neighborhood.
Food is actually great, and so is the wine list, but noisy, lousy atmosphere, and service and the cheese was cold. Oh, don't I sound cranky? Yes.
The one great thing was the 2006 Pacalet Bourgogne, even more delicious after it was open for a while (needed a decanter we couldn't get)
And if someone finds out which Domaine in Chambolle (de Vogue?) run by either one woman or two sisters, is truly up for sale, drop me a line? Maybe we can all chip in for the supposed 40 million euro price tag and join the foreign rush to buy a fancy domaine.
Off to Pierre Jancou's Racines to drink.

12/04/2007

The link for the story entitled Burgeoning Burgundy - Vineyard Purchase Improves Winemaker's Odds (by Elizabeth Werhane) isn't working but try to cut an paste it if you want to see what the New World is up tonow.

www.pacbiztimes.com/index.cfm?go2=articles/wk_120307e

Here's the quote:

Anthony Terlato, chairman of Sanford’s parent company – Terlato Wine Group – told Fennel that he wants to make a “great burgundy.” To improve Fennel’s odds, Terlato purchased one of the Santa Ynez Valley’s oldest and most respected vineyards, the Sanford and Benedict vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills west of Highway 101.

Maybe someone should tell Terlato or Fennel (or the journalist--just in case she's the culprit) that they can buy up all of the Santa Rita Hills vineyards they want, but unless a natural disaster slides the Cote d' Or into southern Cal they're not going to be producing any Burgundy any time soon.

The link for the story entitled Burgeoning Burgundy - Vineyard Purchase Improves Winemaker's Odds (by Elizabeth Werhane) isn't working but try to cut an paste it if you want to see what the New World is up tonow.

www.pacbiztimes.com/index.cfm?go2=articles/wk_120307e

Here's the quote:

Anthony Terlato, chairman of Sanford’s parent company – Terlato Wine Group – told Fennel that he wants to make a “great burgundy.” To improve Fennel’s odds, Terlato purchased one of the Santa Ynez Valley’s oldest and most respected vineyards, the Sanford and Benedict vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills west of Highway 101.

Maybe someone should tell Terlato or Fennel (or the journalist--just in case she's the culprit) that they can buy up all of the Santa Rita Hills vineyards they want, but unless a natural disaster slides the Cote d' Or into southern Cal they're not going to be producing any Burgundy any time soon.

I'm hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world. I want them natural and most of all, I want them to speak the truth even if we argue. With this messiah thing going on, I'm trying to swell the ranks of those who crave the differences in each vintage, celebrate nuance and desire wines that make them think, laugh, and feel. Welcome.

And, if you'd like a signed copy of either THE BATTLE FOR WINE AND LOVE OR HOW I SAVED THE WORLD FROM PARKERIZATION or NAKED WINE, feel free to contact me directly.