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Just Back: Swimming with Ganesha in Mumbai

"Men, women and children surround Ganesha idols, each perched atop a chariot"Credit:
alamy

14 October 2016 • 11:23am

Stefanie Young wins £200 for her account of Ganesh Chaturthi, a music-filled Mumbai party to welcome one of the most popular Hindu gods

I wake to a powerful rainstorm thundering on the roof of the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai.

At six floors up, the noise is almost deafening, although after four days of overwhelming humidity the change in weather is not only welcome but apt, given that today is the final day of the annual 10-day festival to celebrate the Hindu god Lord Ganesha. This culminates in an evening baptism of handcrafted Ganesha idols in the Arabian Sea, to which millions of “Mumbaikars” will flock.

"For office workers, the celebration means an early finish, with the option to craft one’s own Ganesha idol"Credit:
alamy

Ganesha, the elephant-headed god of knowledge and new beginnings, and remover of obstacles, was, according to legend, slain by his father, Lord Shiva. Realising too late the boy was his son, Shiva then replaced Ganesha’s head with that of the nearest living beast, which happened to be the wise old elephant.

For two English companions and me, the evening’s festivities begin under the direction of our Indian colleague Prem. We head to Marine Drive, where the slow-moving traffic is merging into a musical car park. Chaturthi drummers beat out the rhythm and dancers in saris bounce along the slow lane, while scooters weave in and out.

"We head to Marine Drive, where the slow-moving traffic is merging into a musical car park"Credit:
AFP

We reach the beachside promenade, where crowds jostle for position under a forest of multicoloured umbrellas and, as the light begins to fade, the streetlamps surrounding the circular bay take on the shape of the aptly named “Queen’s necklace”.

For office workers, the celebration means an early finish, with the option to craft one’s own Ganesha idol. Creativity is of the essence and depictions of Bollywood stars or Middle Eastern dictators are entirely acceptable, with families and communities investing considerable time and resources.

As we edge closer to the water, Mumbai’s sou’westered policemen keep half an eye on the procession and half on shifty attendees. Men, women and children surround Ganesha idols, each perched atop a chariot. They sing Sanskrit chants and take it in turns to light candles and offer around sweets. Eventually, the men wheel the chariots into the water for the final send-off.

A Ganesh idol gets a dunkingCredit:
2016 Hindustan Times/Hindustan Times

But the highlight for me is the departure from the party – much faster than the arrival. It involves standing on the edge of a three-lane highway, trying to flag down taxis as they fly by. Reaching a junction with taxis U-turning in our direction, I notice Prem is primed for action.

A driver slows but doesn’t stop. “Taj!” shouts Prem through the window, grabbing the back door and throwing himself in, one leg still on the road. The taxi keeps moving. I realise Prem is more in the vehicle than out and that I should follow suit, or we’ll be a festival guide down and a long walk up.

I repeat Prem’s method and my companions do the same from either side of the taxi. We now resemble a poorly coordinated bobsleigh team, albeit in warmer climes and with one very unfriendly team-mate as our driver.

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