France Barge trip report

This November my friend Marian and I
took the barge cruise in France with Ewaterways. Ewaterways is the company
which manages Barges and River Boats in Europe. The trip we took on November
10-16 (last of the season, lower price) was originally scheduled on River Boat
Anacoluthe, 50 passengers, on Seine and Sayone River. However, after September
11 events there was not enough people for 50 people boat and Ewaterways
switched to barge cruise on Burgundy canals. They acquired new barge, also
called Ewaterways. It is actually different type of vacation than the riverboat
and we were upset but eventually we gave it a try and we were not
disappointed.

Itinerary
day-by-day

Saturday, November 10.

We
arrived to Paris, early morning at CDG airport from nonstop flight from JFK.
Not too many travelers in the airport and on the flight. Because of that,
check-in was relatively quick. There was security check-in and later on another
random search of carry-ons and passengers at the gate. We were waived through
and I noticed that if the ticket says “CLR” that probably exempts you from gate
search. Because of security search, the plane was late one hour but other than
that, uneventful. We took taxi to Regina hotel where we were supposed to be
picked up by Ewaterways staff at 3pm so we had plenty of time. The porter took
our bags, marked our names, and we were free to explore Paris. There were 4
other barge groups scheduled at that day. Unfortunately it was very cold and I
did not sleep well on the plane. We did not do much. We walked a bit (Tulleries
Gardens, Palais Royale), had some coffee and croissant for breakfast and later
needed to warm up with an onion soup. Otherwise, Regina is in great location,
on Rue de Rivoli across Louvre and great place to explore Paris. Generally, if
you have time, it is recommended to spend few nights before cruise on location
and explore city, so transition would be easier. It turned out to be a long
day.

At
hotel, around 1-2 pm more travelers arrived. We’ve met few other groups as they
went to their other barge destination. Our Ewaterways rep, Rebecca did not know
our itinerary, she only knew that it will be Burgundy trip. There was also
confusion with return transfers since some people booked earlier flight
(original cruise was on Seine River near Paris) and the voucher promised return
trip to Regina Hotel. Ewaterways Rep was not aware of return transfers. At least we started to bond together
in our uncertainty and misery! Rebecca was taking count of people. One couple
last name Cummings was missing so she went to look for them. (Cummingses are not coming?). We’ve got acquainted with other
members of the group - well-traveled
group 17 people.

At
3pm, we boarded the bus. Another Waterways rep Tracey took us to the Gare De
Lyon train station to take TGV train to Dijon. There was a traffic, the driver
explained, police were on strike (why traffic?). There was a brief commentary
of sights we were passing by. Tracey also gave us some info on Gare De Lyon
architecture. There is a restaurant on the second floor with wonderful
frescoes, we looked at them but did not have time to eat. Tracey again took
care of our luggage, put us on the train, gave one group ticket, showed us the
seats. She said Patrice will meet us in Dijon. She also warned us that Dijon is
only first stop and then TGV goes to Switzerland so we should not miss our
stop. We decided to take turns sleeping. J . TGV is very comfortable high-speed
train and gets you to Burgundy in 2 hours. We’ve asked a couple next to us “Are
you Mr. & Mrs. Cummings?”, which they answered: “No, but we are coming!
” They were going to
Zurich, last stop. They probably liked our group! We chatted a bit on the train, rested,
until we arrived to Dijon. We woke up the rest of the group and got off. There was one gentleman waiting for
us, he introduced himself, as promised, he was Patrice, who would be our guide
for the rest of the trip. We immediately liked him, he was very personal, great
sense of humor. Things started looking up! We even found Cummingses who did
made the train and Norma and Paul Cummings turned out to be very nice people
and made good friends.

Marian
just in case supervised unloading of the luggage because porters try to unload
only 10 suitcase for 17 people (!), but we’ve got all bags eventually. Patrice
took us to his bus and we went to the barge. He told us a lot about area –
Ouche Valley, but unfortunately, it was dark (ever took a tour in the dark?),
more laugh, and we got to the barge. The crew met us with cocktails
ready. Maryka, the barge
manager, introduced the crew. All of them are British, except chef Fabian and
Patrice who were French. I guess we were hungry at that point, so chef Fabian
received more applause and he looked embarrassed, very nice young man. He did
cook superb meals.

We
were taken to our rooms to unpack and refresh and were told to come for dinner
at 8pm (one hour later). We found out that barge cabins do not lock either from
inside or outside! So leave your valuables at home. There is no safe onboard,
the safe could be an improvement. But we did not have any problems. Later on it
was very relaxing do not have to worry about key. However, if you have
concerns, you might think about leaving expensive staff at home, and maybe
bring a small purse for documents and money should you want to carry them all
the time.

We
were impressed with dinner (see menu,
got acquainted more with each other. Out little group of 17 had some couples,
the rest were friends traveling together, two sisters, one single traveler, in
ages ranging from 39 to 87! We
had a lot’s of fun and bonded very well. The barge has open bar policy, all
drinks are included in the price as well, so people still were congregating in
the bar (barge term – saloon) after dinner. I went to sleep early.

We
were told that the barge is located at a small village Vandenesse-en-Auxois,
but Maryka said, we would not find it on the map. I had a separate twin cabin
which was small but very efficient and comfortable, even for two people. See
more under Cabin.

Sunday, November 11.

Next morning, I woke up earlier then everybody else (still jet lag), and
went to the saloon and on the deck to check out where we are. The beautiful
scenery opened up – some farm with medieval buildings, sheeps, cows. It was
cold, but sunny. I opened deck door for local delivery man bringing pastries
which looked and smelled delicious – baguettes, croissants and other yummy
staff. I had some coffee, brought also coffee to Marian and we went downstairs
for breakfast.

After breakfast Patrice came in and took
us for the first excursion to the elegant 12c Chateau de Commarin . It is still private home. It houses
beautiful furnishing and a unique collection of Renaissance heraldic tapestries.
On the way, we passed a donkey. Patrice said, this donkey is famous because he
was in the movie “Chocolat”. After Chateaux Commarin, we visited the medieval village of Chateauneuf en
Auxois, it has wonderful little streets with nooks and crannies to explore.
There were few stores to shop. After that, back to the barge for lunch. After
delicicous lunch, we left to cruise to the village of Pont d’Ouche. Nigel, the
pilot explained that we can get on and off at every lock, so we were excited
and ready for exercise. Almost everybody got out and we walked and biked. Most
of the people biked, but only Marian continued to bike every day. We enjoyed
beautiful scenery, good laugh. We took pictures at few bridges of barge and
from the barge. We found a pay phone in a village and called home. (Hi honey, I
am having a wonderful time but I do not know where we are! Ouche Valley somewhere…. ). Too bad that November daylight
hours are short and by 6pm we were ready for drinks and dinner.

Monday, November 12.

Cruised in the morning, crossing the
river Ouche, the scenery is beautiful. We pass small aqueduct, down the river
valley with wooded slopes. Many
people walk this morning. Even 87- year old Dora takes one walk with us. We see
pastures with white furry cows - different looking, horses, sheeps. There are
brooks with trout. We venture to few villages. Final destination today is quiet
village of La Boussire. We watch lockkeepers as they open the locks. La
Buissere has the Abbey, a few hundred yards from our mooring. Originally a
monastery founded by the Cistercians in the 12th C, the Abbey became a private property
after the revolution. Donated by its owners to the bishopric of Dijon early
this century, it’s beautifully tended buildings and grounds now serve as a
center for retreats and are open to public.

After lunch Patrice came in and we are
off to the famous wine-producing village of Mersault in the cote de Beaune. The
chateau here was originally built by Benedictine monks in the fifteenth
century. Today it is the center of a vast domaine which owns vineyards in some
of the famous villages of the wine slopes of Beaune. We visit winery,
impressive medieval cellars for wine tasting. Back to the barge, most people
sleeping after wine tasting.

Tuesday, November 13.

Market day in Dijon, capital of Burgundy! It is about an hour ride. In the
morning Patrice comes in and announces bad news – the plane crashed in New York
bound to Santo Domingo. Good news – we took Kabul and Taliban left. We are
saddened by yet another tragedy back in home. For almost 4 days we did not
think about the war and terrorism. We did not have newspapers and TV. We
concluded that life still is going on and we were happy that we went on the
trip.

After a guided tour of the historic
center, including the Ducal Palace, we have few hours to shop at the picturesque covered market, the
largest in Burgundy. We buy souvenirs, mustard, of course. Back to Ewaterways
to cruise to the little village of Gissey. We moor near Gallo-Roman period
bridge, and find roman period bath. Our captain Nigel said he lives in this
village.

We took a picture of a dog which looks
like my dog. Nigel said this is the mayor’s dog.

We had our usual cocktails before
dinner. I like Cassis with white wine. Tonight for dinner we had an excellent
seared tuna. Some people did not like it and tuna was replaced by omelettes for
some, others like me had doubles! In the evening, Patrice came back with his 8
year old son Valentine. Valentine played guitar, American music, French songs.
They even showed us some circus tricks. A lot’s of laugh and applause. What a
nice, enjoyable evening. Again,
if you are into Las Vegas style revues, I remind that this trip is not for you.
Very much relaxed pace.

Wednesday, November 14.

We cruise this morning down the valley of the Ouche, passing through villages
of Sainte Marie and Pont de Pany. In the afternoon, Patrice is driving us to
the Hautes Cotes (the upper slopes of the wine producing region) to Beaune. We
tour this delightful medieval town and the world famous Hotel
Dieu, charity hospital, which was built in the mid-fifteenth century
and it is a masterpiece of late-medieval architecture. We explore the center of
town afterwards, Romanesque church of Notre Dame, plenty of shops. We return this afternoon back to barge
to the village of Fleurey sur Ouche.

After yet another delicious dinner,
impromptu party developed. We danced in the small saloon and the party even
spilled out on the deck. Good thing that the barge was moored in a remote area!

Thursday,
November 15.

We cast off early and cruise through the village of Velar and Plombiers, and
then past a long artificial lake, Lac Kir, named like the local aperitif after
their creator Felix Kir, former mayor of Dijon and churchman. Marian is
enjoying the bike ride today, chatting with us back and forth on the barge.
Some parts of the path are asphalt and we even see rollerbladers there. We
arrive to the port of Dijon which is the busiest port we’ve stayed this week.
We even pass some construction sites. And the locks are automated! Anyway,
unlike large cruise ships port, the port of Dijon is a peaceful, very well laid
out and is located in the park-like setting. Plus, it is 15 minutes walk to the
center of Dijon so we can finish with our shopping. There are three other
barges at the port.

Our last
excursion of the trip is to Chateaux of Clos Vougeot, medieval monastic winery.
Although we did not taste wine there, the location and architecture is very
interesting. It is present day headquarters of the Confrerie
des Chevaliers du Tastevin (The brotherhood of the Knights of Wine Tasting)
. We visit display of old wine presses, where the
wine making process is described.

Tonight, there is a gala dinner.
Beautiful table set up with napkins folded as a flower bowl for ladies, shirts
for gentlemen. The staff presents dinner and cheeses, there is laugh, songs,
guitar playing. The highlight of the dinner is the birthday’s cake (chef’s
surprise) and we sing happy birthday to Marian. We also dance and listened to
music after dinner, exchange emails and cards, and we wonder how a week ago we
did not know each other at all! We thank the crew for their help and wonderful
service. Patrice announced that tomorrow in the morning we will be picked up at
9am for a “Private tour of TGV train”.

Friday, November 16.

After
breakfast, we bid farewell to the crew, more pictures, Patrice drove us in the
circle three time for better look of Ewaterways and the crew and we were off to
the train station. He made sure we got on the train and waved us goodbye. Two
hours later in Paris, Gare de Lyon, Rebecca from Ewaterways met us and helped
us with porters and directed us to other locations. Some of us were going back
to hotel Regina, they took a taxi. Other continued to Normandy to the spa.
Marian and I took Air France bus to airport and in few hours later we were on
the way home. Again, plane was only quarter full, but it let us space to
stretch on 3 seats each!

We
made home safely with good memories of the trip.

Barge

What is a barge cruise? It is an
experience and not for everyone. For experienced, sophisticated travelers who
already been to the country (this time, France) and want to revisit less
traveled places at slower pace, it will be a great experience. It is a niche
cruise (if you can call this cruise), for people who appreciate great French
food, wine and cheeses. You sail with less passengers, amenities and activities
than on a regular cruise. Barge has bicycles so passengers can bike or walk or
jog, or roaming around the villages and then re-board the barge at the next lock. The barge
does not move very fast, 2 miles per hour. Some parts of the tow path are even
suitable for rollerblade. This activity takes half a day, other half a day is
spent by touring on the mini-van or bus (depending on how many people) with
your guide. We visited
chateuaex, winery, little Burgundy villages and two larger medieval towns Beaune and Dijon.

The price is all-inclusive of transfers
on TGV train from Paris to Dijon, accommodations on the barge, gourmet meals,
drinks (wines with lunch and dinner plus open bar), sightseeing. You only need
to pay tip at the end.

Cabins

Ewaterways acquired a barge which used
to be L’abercrombie and renamed it Ewaterways (not very creative name, I can
say). Ewaterways is 22 people barge with 11 cabins. There are 4 double cabins,
7 twins, two located on upper deck. All cabins are not large as on riverboats
but very efficient and extremely comfortable. All cabins are with windows or
portholes and private bathrooms. The water pressure was excellent and there
were no problems with toilette as sometimes it happens on cruise and barge
trips. Enough shelves and closet space, the bed also has drawers. Contrary some
previous reports I’ve read, there was not mold anywhere, Ewaterways was
superbly maintained and recently renovated (used to be L’abercrombie). All cabins have individual control
heating and air conditioners. The temperature was comfortable after I’ve
learned to figure our heating in my cabin. There are plenty of room for
clothes, but the cruise is casual and only one last night is it s a bit dressy
(not required), so no need for a lot’s of fancy clothes. Another interesting
feature that the cabins are not locked either from inside or outside and there
are no safe. So do not bring jewelry. We were concerned in beginning but it was
not a problem at all. The
water is drinkable, we were told, but bottled Evian water was provided in the
cabin.

The barge also had a dining room for 22
people, a bar area which was called saloon where most people congregated most
of the time and an open deck. But it was cold in November and we did not spend
much time on the deck, only when it was sunny. But I imagine it is very popular
in summer.

Barge
vs other cruises

Barges foat on manmade canals, that have
no current, covering just 30-50 miles per week. They move so slowly that
passengers can step off the barge at the lock, walk or bike into town and catch
up again with a barge. You cannot do this on river or ocean cruise.Generally,
barges accommodate from 4 to 24 passengers, this makes them ideal for families
or friends who want to occupy the entire vessel. The cuisine and the local
wines are of high quality but not for hamburger-steak-beer crowd. Entertainment
in the evening is minimal if non-existent.

River cruises, on the other hand, sail
at faster speed and can visit more cities or countries per week and usually
stay on more crowded ports. A
river cruises would have more amenities, larger cabins, big decks and some of
them have Jacuzzi or swimming pool.

So, what vessel is right for you?

If you hyper-kinetic, you would not
probably like the barge cruise. If you want to be in different location every
day, the barge is not right for you. Barging
is really a slower pace with in-depth view of countryside. It is a gentle,
quiet pace – “stop and smell the flowers”. Yet, you will go every day to see
the sites, and when you come back, the exquisite meals are waiting for you. You
explore at your pace little villages, paths, countryside. You get as much
exercise or be lazy as you want to be.

Clientele

On our trip there were 17 Americans, mix
of couples, friends traveling together and one single traveler. The ages were
from 39 to 87 and it was an excellent mix of people, the group got along very
well together and we bonded really fast.

Instead of whirling through 15 countries
in 10 days, barge travelers want to savor a small part of Europe from the deck
of a small vessel floating on its inland waterways – the canals and rivers that
criss-cross the continent. Barges float in UK, France, Ireland and Holland.

The
Crew and the Service

There was a crew of 7 people – a barge
manager, a guide, captain, pilot, chef and two housekeeping ladies who were
taking care of cabins and also served the meals. The barge is better described as
a floating country inn. It is French product, run by British Crew, made for
Americans. Only guide and chef were French. All
of them were great, eager to accommodate the passengers, and even participated
in our improptu parties. As I said before, you make your own
entertainment.

We
were lucky with tour guide Patrice who stayed with us all the time, from
meeting us on Dijon train station on arrival and dropping us off there last
morning for trip to Paris. All of the staff were very professional yet loose.
They worked very well together, helping each other with duties. The barge and
the cabins were impeccably clean. The cabins were cleaned

The
bed made few times per day with the towels and washcloths replaced, the bath
was cleaned and a two bottles with Evian water supplied.

Last night Marian had birthday and the
crew arranged the birthday cake which was beautiful, the celebration was
lovely. Nigel the pilot was taking care of bicycles on and off the boat,
chattered with passengers on the way and informed us on locks as we’ve passed
by.

Food and Wine.

This is the highlight of the trip. Meals
were spectacular, beautifully presented, and delicious. They do ask you in
advance and on arrival if there are special dietary requirements or
preferences. This is important to tell it since the meals do not have menus.
You have to eat what you are given but it was good! Few meals were not like but
less sophisticated palates J but there are 4 course dinners and you
are will not leave hungry.

For example, once we were served seared
tuna and half of the people did not eat rare tuna. The chef fixed omelette on
request. Other times appetizers – escargos and foie gras were not popular with
few people. Everything else was more or less familiar. Click here tosee the
menu. Being gourmet eaters, myself and another passengers got double
portions! For dinner, there is no extra helpings unless you finish whatever
your neighbor does not like and we became very good on exchanging plates. Most
dishes like lamb, onion soup, soufflé, crème brulee and chocolate mousse were
everybody’s favorite.

If you are meat and potatoes eater and
like large portions you probably would be disappointed.

For breakfast, local bakery delivered
early in the morning fresh
croissants, pastries, baguettes. They were delicious and very large. In
addition, cereals, muesli, juices, homemade preserves, yogurt were available.
Breakfast is buffet style, extended continental. However, limited eggs orders
were taken as an exception but not the rule but it probably is not practical to
provide eggs for everybody since the chef is starting working in the (small)
kitchen on lunch. As you probably know, French do not eat eggs for breakfast.
No meats were available for breakfast as well.

Lunch was buffet style, with 2 wines
served, one either fish or meat or quiche and 3 salads. Buffet is served by
staff with explanation of wines and chef describes the menu. You can help
yourself for seconds if you wish. Desert for lunch always been cheese and only
once chocolate mousse. (My chocolate mousse was almost stolen by tablemates but
I was quick to find perpetator!)

Cheeses were described as well. Dinner was a 4 course
meal. Before meal, the staff explained wines, and dishes. It was usually
appetizer, main course, cheese and dessert. The
cheeses were not that average American palate is used to and they were with
distinctive cheesy smell as you feel when you enter French cheese store.
Cheeses are made from unpasterised milk so some people would not venture eat
it. To me, we often try to find these cheeses in USA and it was treat for me to
have them every day.

There were cocktails before dinner first
night with delicious small pastries as well. Otherwise, chips, nuts, cookies,
were available every day for our pre-dinner drinks.

My favorite dishes were foie gras, French
onion soup for appetizer. French onion soup in Nouvelle cuisine is not like
cheesy bistro soup, just few croutons and shreds of cheese, with a dash of
vermouth. For dessert, chocolate mousse and crème brulee were exceptional. Click here to see the menu

I also enjoyed typical burgundy dish –
poached eggs is wine sauce with bits of bacon, but it probably would do as a
main lunch course, it was too much of a meal for appetizer. Most vegetable
salads, unlike American mixed salads, consisted from the main vegetable
ingredient, accented with nuts or raisins, and in different vinaigrette. Dijon
mustard of course was used in most dressings with different flavor vinegars.
For main course, rare tuna was excellent, duck breast as well was the best. As
for drink, I do not drink anything except wine, but I became quite a fond of
kir (black currant liquior with white wine or champagne). I preferred it with
white wine. Kir was born in Burgundy, so it a staple of this region, along with
wines and mustard.

Final Thoughts

Very enjoyable vacation, easy pace,
excellent food and wine. We had visit the most beautiful region of Europe and
savored it. Small group of people, you make your own entertainment, great
conversation late at night. I would definitely come back with my husband since
it it very romantic especially in warmer month. I would like to explore other
places. Provance/Cote D'Azur, Holland or Ireland are next on my list.

I was concerned that the barge would be
to slow of me, but it turned out just right. For travelers who like to tour
larger cities with intense sightseeing, more crowds, nightlife, action, I would
advice against it. My other concern was that we are
independent travelers and never take bus tours. Even on cruise, we venture on
our own in ports or with private guide. When we cruise, we prefer expedition
cruises. However, I found out that I've enjoyed the trip. We had a small group
(and other barges are even smaller in size), and found the trip very personal.