If you cut the edging strips in a different direction, across the grain, then they will fold less easily, and the texture will appear different between the end frames and the folds.

This is quite disturbing news. Yes I do realise that if I cut the broad strips along the length they will fold less easily but all they have to do is bend at 90 degrees round the box corners whereas bellows tape doubles back on itself. If as you say they will look different if fitted at right angles to each other then I will now have to cut the 48mm wide strips from the 510mm width which means I will have two joints on the end frames instead of one. One of those joints has to be at a front corner albeit underneath, so I'm not a happy bunny!

If you cut the edging strips in a different direction, across the grain, then they will fold less easily, and the texture will appear different between the end frames and the folds.

I've suddenly realised that this is wrong! The folds on the bellows frames are at right angles to the folds on the bellows so it follows that if I cut the broads strips at right angles to the bellows tape strips all of the folds will be along the same axis of the material, only the grain is at right angles. You can't have it both ways!

I borrowed the Art Dept's precision rotary cutter today and cut four broad strips and twenty eight narrow strips of buckram ready to recover the bellows frames and replace the bellows tape. The rotary cutter was quick use, very accurate and it made a potentially tedious and difficult task simplicity itself. I cut a few extra bits so I can experiment with gluing some to pieces of scrap wood and practice mitering on the fly before tackling the real thing over the next few days.

If you cut the edging strips in a different direction, across the grain, then they will fold less easily, and the texture will appear different between the end frames and the folds.

I've suddenly realised that this is wrong! The folds on the bellows frames are at right angles to the folds on the bellows so it follows that if I cut the broads strips at right angles to the bellows tape strips all of the folds will be along the same axis of the material, only the grain is at right angles. You can't have it both ways!

If you cut the edging strips in a different direction, across the grain, then they will fold less easily, and the texture will appear different between the end frames and the folds.

I've suddenly realised that this is wrong! The folds on the bellows frames are at right angles to the folds on the bellows so it follows that if I cut the broads strips at right angles to the bellows tape strips all of the folds will be along the same axis of the material, only the grain is at right angles. You can't have it both ways!

There are two sets of folds on the bellows frame covering: at the corners of the frame, and where the covering goes over onto the the first valley of the bellows. So whichever way you cut the buckram the grain will be parallel to one fold and at right angles to the other!

Can't disagree with that, it's a total nightmare. Compare grain direction to corrugated cardboard. That should make it simpler to understand. I had real trouble at the London College of Printing, trying to get this grain thing into my head. ( mind you, that's not difficult) Well difficult when it comes my head that is.

There are two sets of folds on the bellows frame covering: at the corners of the frame, and where the covering goes over onto the the first valley of the bellows. So whichever way you cut the buckram the grain will be parallel to one fold and at right angles to the other!

You are quite right of course but at least cutting everything across the width as you originally said means that the long folded edges of the frames are folded in the same way as the strips of bellows tape.

Pictures tomorrow if I think on but the two end frames are now half bound and left in cramps overnight. I've done the back and bottom runs first and these will be trimmed off flush with the corners. The front and top runs will then overlap slightly underneath and down the back where they are unlikely to be noticed after the metal corners are refitted.

Rightly or wrongly I elected to stick the buckram to the face of the frame only leaving the edge bellows run and the small tuck around the end of the frame until later. Time will tell if this was a good idea!

The end frames of the bellows are finally recovered and I've done a trial strip of bellows tape to see if the paste sticks to the metal corners. The buckram overlaps wouldn't stick down with paste so they were finished with a bit of PVA which worked like a charm. On with the bellows tape next but if the metal corners give me grief then the lot will go on with PVA.

Well the most noticeable thing was that the old bellows papers took on a new lease of life as I used a barely damp microfibre cloth to wash away excess paste when fitting new bellows tape. I had thought the black streaks on the cloth came from the new buckram, as soon as I discovered it was rejuvenating the old printed bellows papers I became a little bit more liberal with my attentions. I hope that the result is that the papers are now as vibrant and striking as they were when they left the Hohner Factory.

To be honest the bellows won't bear a close inspection for very long, too many errors! Nothing that affects the instrument in any way but several cosmetic niggles arising from my lack of experience working with buckram. The material stretches fairly easily when wet but tends to shrink back as it dries. This wasn't much of a problem when covering the wooden frames as I cut the pieces long when I stuck them on and only trimmed them to length after the glue had dried. Taping the bellows folds was a different matter however and I have a number things I will either have to learn to live with, figure out a workaround or rip off and start again. Being a lazy sod I will probably acknowledge that the box is for me and I'll learn to live with the imperfections.

Pete, that looks quite nice. I have a few questions that may be answered but I could have missed in the thread. How many strips did you use for the frames, and where was the overlap or seam located? The excess you mentioning trimming off, was that along the outer edges of the frames? And which paste was used? Thanks, Chris.