Red Cow, in a hard-to-spot location at Sunrise Boulevard and Federal Highway, opened in mid-2013 as the latest concept from Elliot Wolf, who has found success in downtown Fort Lauderdale with the Foxy Brown, G&B Oyster Bar, and Coconuts. For this restaurant, he turned to Steve Shockey, a Texas native whom he's worked with for nearly a decade. Before opening, the two brought in a massive wood smoker and spent weeks cooking more than 1,000 pounds of meat, trying to perfect their recipes and methods. Eighteen-dollar Eat Meat combos are what you want when you step inside. Whether you pick thick, smoky slices of beef brisket or the huge beef ribs with a slice of sweet pomegranate barbecue, be sure to order the corn bread. It's like dessert hijacked an appetizer's spot on the menu. Facing death would be easy if coffin makers begin lining boxes with this stuff.

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The sweet perfume of molasses and slow-burning hickory wood punches you in the face when you step inside Elliot Wolf's new restaurant, Red Cow, near the impossible-to-navigate intersection of Sunrise Boulevard and Federal Highway. A...