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Topic Review (Newest First)

08-16-2009 08:37 PM

jgs240

Quote:

Originally Posted by carsavvycook

Yes, One 'fart' or 'backfire' back through the carb, can cause it's diagram to rupture. This will really make them run rich. They do make a kit you can buy, that will solve this problem on the older Holley carbs. It consists of a drill, a tap, and a plug with instructions.

Switching your linkage back to the correct hole will help. LOL I have done this same thing myself.

I had a pretty decent backfire two days ago while i was trying to start it just before i took the carb off...but then again it was running pretty bad before that as well.

Either way, it looks like i will be getting pretty familiar with this carb

08-16-2009 08:36 PM

jgs240

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Set the float level by removing the sight plugs (one at a time) and adjust the float level to where there is just a trickle of fuel coming from the open hole at idle.

A bench adjustment should have been made w/the floats assembled into the float bowl, the float bowl is then carefully inverted and the float level is adjusted by setting the float to be parallel w/the bottom (what is now the bottom, w/the float bowl inverted) of the float bowl.

Yes, One 'fart' or 'backfire' back through the carb, can cause it's diagram to rupture. This will really make them run rich. They do make a kit you can buy, that will solve this problem on the older Holley carbs. It consists of a drill, a tap, and a plug with instructions.

Switching your linkage back to the correct hole will help. LOL I have done this same thing myself.

08-16-2009 07:25 PM

cobalt327

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgs240

I did set the fuel valves like cook explained in this thread @ 3.5 threads out.

Anyone have a next step for me?

Set the float level by removing the sight plugs (one at a time) and adjust the float level to where there is just a trickle of fuel coming from the open hole at idle.

A bench adjustment should have been made w/the floats assembled into the float bowl, the float bowl is then carefully inverted and the float level is adjusted by setting the float to be parallel w/the bottom (what is now the bottom, w/the float bowl inverted) of the float bowl.

I was just going back and looking at the carb before i removed it and noticed i hooked up the linkage differently. So yet another thing that could be causing problems.

This is the before:

This is the after:

08-16-2009 07:11 PM

jgs240

Quote:

Originally Posted by carsavvycook

Did you install the new power valve from your kit?

No i did not, another cause of this?

08-16-2009 06:12 PM

carsavvycook

Did you install the new power valve from your kit?

08-16-2009 06:03 PM

jgs240

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericnova72

Spring is accelerator pump override spring. It should be adjusted so that there is no slop between its head (plus 1/4 turn preload )and the pump lever it pushes against. You did put the spring(different spring) back inside the pump diaphram housing, correct??

I didnt pull the housing apart, i was a little leary looking at the diagram. Sounds like maybe i am due to pull the carb again, and try and do a full rebuild this time instead of just the fuel valves/float bowl gaskets?

08-16-2009 06:01 PM

jgs240

I got as far as 2.5 turns out on each one, but it never fired. I am beginning to get a gas smell as well, flooded maybe?

The throttle plate looks like it has about 1/8" opening, but its hard to say. I am judging that based on the angel of the butterfly's, i cant actually see below the throttle plate.

I will adjust the accel pump to match what you are describing if i get time tonight/the next day i get time.

Anything i should be thinking about while i have some down time?

I just realized that i forgot to check the fuel levels in the bowls...something else to look at.

08-16-2009 05:57 PM

ericnova72

Spring is accelerator pump override spring. It should be adjusted so that there is no slop between its head (plus 1/4 turn preload )and the pump lever it pushes against. You did put the spring(different spring) back inside the pump diaphram housing, correct??

08-16-2009 05:56 PM

carsavvycook

That is the accelerator pump adjuster. In that picture it looks like it is a little tight. This will be pumping fuel in too fast.

In your earlier pictures, you could see a few threads showing on the top of it. Now it looks like the nut is even with the top of the threads.

Keep in mind, making any adjustments to the idle speed screw, changes this adjustment.

08-16-2009 05:45 PM

jgs240

Thanks again!

I will make one more attempt at this today, my wife gets out of work in 45 minutes and i have to pick her up.

Could you by chance, tell me what the assembly with the red/pink spring is/does? It is considerably looser (more play) than before i took the carb off and replaced the float bowl gaskets today. Its in the last pic.

08-16-2009 05:37 PM

carsavvycook

The first 2 screws were the ones I said to set at 1 turn out, those are the idle mixture screws. Back these out 1/4 of a turn, at a time, and try starting it.

The last adjustment check was for the screw you are pointing at.

Simply look down through the carb, and look to see how wide the gap is at the throttle plate.

Take the fuel level sight screws out, and see where the fuel level is.

08-16-2009 05:17 PM

jgs240

Alright first pic is drivers side. These screws are near the front of the carb, about a 1/2" from the throttle plate.

Those are the screws i turned all the way in, then back out one full turn.

After reading what you typed above, i kind of felt dumb...because now i think you mean i should be turning this screw right?

It is on the throttle linkage.

08-16-2009 05:11 PM

jgs240

Well then i dont think i adjusted the right screw(s)....let me take a pic of what i turned.

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