OFF THE MAP

Five miles (8km) south, Arapiles was the scene of the Bat­tle of Sala­manca in 1812 in the Penin­su­lar War, when the Duke of Welling­ton’s army de­feated the French. A route marks the key sites. Take a taxi or rent a bike and ride down the cy­cle path (alquiler­bicisala­manca.com; from €12 for three hours).