What it lacks in vowels it makes up in style. Located upstairs in what is the most dynamic eating center in Orange County, SWSH has a New York club vibe. Steel, concrete, clean lines and a trendy product define the place and the clientele skews to the young, fashionable, and those with disposable incomes and no desire to do this simple-to-do dish at home. The meats, shaved to translucent whispers, will be just as marbled here as anywhere. Be prepared to pay an up charge for anything with the word Kobe on it. Sake, hot or cold, is the preferred drink.

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