Dobbiaco: Gateway to the Dolomites, Set Among Verdant Pastures and the Deep Green of Forests.

"Dobbiaco is Extraordinary: it Tempers your Body
and Soul".

These words onDobbiaco–Toblachin German – were
spoken by Gustav Mahler, probably the town's most famous visitor ever.

It is part of the three municipalities in theAlta Val
Pusteria(Hochpustertalin German – together with neighbouringSesto/SextenandSan Candido/Innichen– to have become known as one of the“Comuni delleTre Cime”(Drei Zinnenin German; see picture above): the
three communities – on theSouth Tyrolside – lying at the foot of these celebrated peaks that have become the symbol of the Dolomites.

For its peculiar location,Dobbiaco/Toblach is considered one
of the key gateways to the Dolomites, situated at an altitude – 1,256
meters above sea level – that makes it ideally suited for both summer and
winter activities.

The town is spread over a high, verdant plateau: a location
that – despite being surrounded by tall mountains – is very open and abundantly
sunny, especially during the summer months.

To the south, this plateau is protected by the rocky Dolomite crags of Cima NoveandMonte Serla, while on the
northern side are the margins of theWestern Tauern(Cornetto di
Confine,Corno di Fana) – a mountain range which has
most of its development in nearbyAustria.

In many ways, Dobbiaco lays in a strategic position,
being at a crossroads between three main communication arteries that connect it
toVeniceand the Dolomites’
heartlandto the south;Bolzano/Bozen – and from there
on toTyrolandBayern– to the west, andOsttirol (Austria)
to the east. Only to the north is its territory ‘blocked’ by the
main watershed ridge.

Interestingly enough, Dobbiaco’s municipality is
itself split into two parts – this divide being not only between two
villages, but rather between two hugely important water systems.

The riverDrau(Dravain Italian) has
its source just to the east of town (unbeknown to many, this long European
river begins its life in Italy), and has the peculiarity of running all the way
to the Danube.

Perhaps it is worth pointing out, then, that this part
of Dobbiaco’s territory is, strictly speaking, outside of the Mediterranean
zone, and draining – albeit for a small section – into the Black sea basin!

The other important river is theRienza(Rienzin German), which
has its source at the foothill of theTre Cimeand, after having formed the Lago
di Dobbiaco/Toblachersee, it crosses the Dobbiaco plateau, then turns
westwards to follow the whole length of the Italian section of Val Pusteria/Pustertal.

It eventually flows into theIsarco/Eisackjust to the north
of Bressanone/Brixen– this river eventually
draining (through the Adige) into the Adriatic Sea, and thus belonging to
the Mediterranean zone.

The town itself is also divided into two parts:Dobbiaco Vecchia/Alt-Toblachis the historical
part, and is located at a slightly higher altitude in a more secluded location
at the entrance of theValle di San
Silvestro/Wahlen.

Dobbiaco Nuova/Neu-Toblach, on the contrary,
was newly created at the onset of the 20th century, following the arrival of
the railway and a general betterment of the transportation system.

It is modern and less appealing, comprised mainly of a
mixture of hotels, shops and other sports facilities. TheVal
Pusteria/Pustertal National Routedivides the two parts quite
neatly.

From the point of view ofgeology, Dobbiaco is
situated on the boundary between the Central-eastern Alps and the South-eastern
Alps.

In fact, the very name of the place bears probably a
reference to its geographical location, asDuplagum– so the
settlement is first mentioned in 827 – means “two waters”, which seems to be
referring to either the two lakes in the vicinity (LandroandDobbiaco) or – most likely
– to the springs of the two riversRienzaandDrava, mentioned above.

In Pre-historic times, first evidence of the presence
of a settlement here dates to the lateIron Age, and the first
inhabitants were probably Illyrians (from an archaeological site that was dug
to the Northwest of the actual town).

In the 4th century BC the area was invaded by Celtic
tribes, who progressively mingled with the previous inhabitants, and went on to
form the Kingdom of theNoricum, which in 15BC
subjected itself to the Romans. To the same time dates the foundation of nearbySan Candido/Innichen– the main centre
of the upper valley, then known as Littamum.

In the 1st century AD a road along theVal
Pusteria/Pustertalwas traced: the exact route
has not yet been identified with certainty, but a milestone was found dated
247, during the reign of Philip II the Emperor.

At that time, the newly arrived Latin language
superimposed itself on the Celtic and Illyrian idioms, thus creating a new
Roman tongue –Ladin– still spoken today in many
valleys of theDolomites, although not here anymore.

With the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Dobbiaco
fell under the dominion of Germanic people (the Ostrogoths and Bavarians). Despite
that, for a long time the pressure of Slav populations over the region was
strong, and it is ascertained that in 609 the Vends arrived through
the Drau valley, conquering the area – to which followed the victory of the Bavarians
over the Slavs.

The result of these different dominations left its
mark on the territory – especially in place names – bearing evidence to the
fact that this area had always been at an
important crossroads for its strategic location.

The Bavarians were responsible for the diffusion of
Christianity in the Pusteria/Pustertal, especially through the operations ofDuke Tassilone III, who in 769
founded aBenedictine AbbeyinSan Candido/Innichen.

As a matter of fact, it is likely that Dobbiaco was
founded as a result, together with other settlements in the upper valley. The
local site of worship was dedicated to St. John the Baptist.

The Bavarian Duchy expanded over the years beyond theSella di Dobbiaco/Toblachersattelinto the territory
of the Francs, which in 773 – under the rule of Charlemagne– conquered the
reign of the Lombards.

Around year 1000, the Diocese of the Princes-Bishops
started taking shape – and that is the time when the Pusteria/Pustertal was annexed to the territories belonging to the Prince-Bishop of Bressanone/Brixen.

Lay powers were handed over to aristocratic families,
and the area of Dobbiaco was donated by the Prince-Bishops as a fiefdom to theCounts of Gorizia
and Tyrolin 1271.

In 1363, the county was again handed over – this time
to the Hapsburgs, then to the House of Bayern, and eventually – around
1500 – it came back to theCounts of Tyrol; from then on – and until 1919 – the history of Tyrol is strictly connected with that of Austria.

In those same years, relationships started to get
strained with the neighbours to the south – theRepublic of Venice. Those were also
the times of the glory ofMaximilian,
Emperor of Austria.

The fact that Venice refused the passage of Maximilian's troops across its
territory was the cause of a war that led to two attacks toBotestagno castle– the Venetians'
outpost near Cortina– in 1508 and 1511; eventually, the Imperial troops won,
conquering the castle – and the Ampezzo basin fell under
Austrian rule.

In 1792 Tyrol fell again briefly under Bavarian
domination for a brief spell, after which the area surrounding Dobbiaco was divided into three
sections: Italian, Illyrian and Bavarian; finally, after theCongress of Vienna(1815), the entire
Veneto became Austrian for a time.

The Origins of Tourism

From the second half of the 19th century onwards,
tourist development started in Dobbiaco, with the consequent construction of
new homes and infrastructures, and also the tracing ofa railway line connecting Vienna
withSouth Tyrol.

Most importantly, aGrand Hotelwas erected – now
turned into a cultural and congress centre. Several organizations of common
utility were founded too, and the town became also known as a spa resort.

Mountain hikingandclimbingbecame
increasingly more popular, and that is the time when several peaks of the surroundingDolomiteswere conquered.

In 1905, with the goal of further expanding the
blooming tourist industry, a railway link was opened between Dobbiaco and Cortina– the so-called“Ferrovia delle
Dolomiti”; then, everything came to a halt with the explosion of World War I, which
saw some of its most bitter fights in the area.

During the war, this section of Val Pusteria/Pustertalbecame an
operational zone, as it was very close to the boundary between Italy and
Austria – which caused the town to be severely damaged by bomb raids.

After the Italian defeat atCaporetto(1917), though,
the frontline moved away; in 1919, theTreaty of
Saint-Germaineventually fixed the border in its present location,
thus including Dobbiaco (together withSesto/SextenandSan Candido/Innichen) under Italian soil.

It was only at the end of the hostilities – after 1919
– that the railways became operational again for civilian use, but the Cortina-Dobbiaco
line reopened only in 1921.

After a brief peaceful spell, during the Fascist
regime the area started to suffer again (as indeed the whole of South Tyrol) for the
relentless campaign – pursued by the Fascists – of trying to erase the German
background and culture, which have always been predominant in this region. Some
restrictions – such as the banning of German names, prohibitions in the use of
language, and closure of the schools – were particularly harsh.

Despite the violent Fascist cultural repression,
during WW2 the area was largely unaffected by fights, even though – being so
close to the border – Dobbiaco and its surroundings were largely used as a base
for barracks and other military outposts.

After WW2, the signature of theFirst Charter of
Autonomyfor the region ofSouth Tyrol– in 1948 – meant
the opening of a whole new chapter.

Linguistic minorities were now formally recognized and
protected; the use of German was fully reinstated by law, and – where
applicable – ofLadinalso (all signs in the region have been bilingual ever
since – or even trilingual, where Ladin is spoken, but this is not the
case in Dobbiaco).

Economy andtourismflourished again –
in fact, ever more so than before – from the 1950s onwards; the “Cortina
effect” (following the Winter Olympics of 1956) was also felt here.

Sadly, though, the faithful“Ferrovia delle
Dolomiti”betweenCortinaand Dobbiaco closed in 1964, never to
be reopened again.

Then, after a period of neglect, the route of the
former railway was reinstated, and it is now massively used as a pedestrian andcycle pathover the summer,
while it turns into a popularcross-country ski
routeduring wintertime.

Religious Architecture in
Dobbiaco

TheParish churchof St. John the
Baptist is the main religious building in Dobbiaco. It is constructed over the
remains – of which nothing is left to see – of an original Benedictine building
erected here in the 9th century.

The current church was built in 1764-1774, and is
considered nowadays the most notable Baroque architecture in the upper
Pustertal (“Alta Val
Pusteria/Hochpustertal”).

This is because, as a whole, it managed to retain a
certain purity of lines and its original proportions, while the interior is not
burdened by later additions (as it happened with so many other churches in the
valley).

The frescoes on the ceiling – depicting the story of
St. John the Baptist, to whom the church is dedicated – are due to the Austrian
painter Franz Anton Ziller, whileJohann Pergeris the author of
many of the sculptures.

The dedication of this church to St. John the Baptist
owes to the devotion of the Benedictine order for this saint.

The“Via Crucis”(Kalvarienberg)
– starting outside the actual parish church by the Chapel of the Counts of Gorizia
and Tyrol – is comprised of five chapels attributed to the famous Renaissance
painter and artist Michael Parth.

They were erected in 1519, and the fifth and major
chapel – with three rounded arches on pillars – is known as“Croce di Pietra”('Stone Cross').

The final building is the roundChapel of
Lerschach, dedicated to
Saint Joseph and erected originally on a Roman sediment.

The whole route of the“Via Crucis”was wanted by the Emperor
of Austria, Maximilian, and was consecrated in 1568. As a note of curiosity,
this Passion is exactly as long as the one in Jerusalem; it is the most
ancient Passion route inSouth Tyrol, and the second
most ancient in Mitteleuropa.

Other notable religious buildings in the Dobbiaco area
include the sanctuary atSanta Maria/Aufkirchen, dedicated to
Saint Mary.

Erected in 1262, it soon became the destination of an
important pilgrimage, and was therefore reconstructed in 1470 in Gothic style,
then again in 1730 and finally in 1877.

The imposing bell tower is frescoed with a gigantic
image of Saint Bartholomew, probably realized – alongside with other frescoes –
by Simone da Tesidoat the beginning of the 1500s.

More traces of 15th century frescoes were discovered
in the interior during the 1983 restoration works, thus attesting to the
importance of this building for the local population since ancient times.

The small church of San Nicolò is in the hamlet ofValle San
Silvestro/Wahlen, and its oldest parts are Gothic.

This religious building also displays a frescoed image
of Saint Bartholomew, which dates to the 17th century. At that time, it was
transformed into the Baroque style, but later alterations (made in 1865)
reinstated the original Gothic structure – so that today the church looks
almost entirely Neo-Gothic.

At an altitude of 1420 metres, on a wooded hill above
the hamlet of Santa Maria/Aufkirchen (mentioned above) –
and on a site that most likely was inhabited since Pre-historic times – the
ancient church of San Pietro in Monte('Saint-Peter-by-the-Mount')
can be reached through a path in the woods.

It lies at the end of a pleasant twenty minutes’ walk
along a so-called “meditation path”, accompanied by the monoliths and
sculptures of local artistJakob
Oberhollenzer, who was inspired by the biblical story of Saint Peter.

This atmospheric church had been abandoned for a long
time, and has been painstakingly rebuilt, only to be reopened in 1996.

The ancient – and sacred – location is evident when
one considers that on the day of winter solstice the rays of the sun that
penetrate inside the chapel form a perfect square on the altar (if it is sunny!).

Other small religious buildings are situated along the
old road that used to connect the main centres of the valley through an
elevated route – such as the chapel by theMaso TaschlerinFrondeigen (Franadega),
or theSanctuary of San Silvestro in Alpe.

This is found at an altitude of 1,912 metres along the
old route to Monguelfo/Welsberg, and it is widely frequented during
the summer months for its scenic location.

Civil Architecture in Dobbiaco

So much for the religious architecture. But in terms of
civil buildings, there are important works too: the Grand Hotelwas erected in 1877, and besides
being the first hotel to be built in Dobbiaco, it was also one of the most
important in the whole valley.

It was considered one of the foremost luxury hotels of
its time, and for that reason – at the height of its fortunes – it hosted many
notable figures and characters.

During WW1 the Grand Hotel suffered so much damage
that it was never repaired, and at the end of the conflict it was abandoned.
The impressive building then passed from hand to hand and became derelict, and it was only in 1991
– when it was finally purchased by the Autonomous Province of Bolzano – that, at last,
restoration work took place.

The original structures were maintained but the
destination was changed, as the impressive complex – despite being still called“Grand Hotel”– was turned into
a multi-functionculture centre, comprising educational
facilities, a youth hostel, social housing, a holiday resort, a school of music
and the visitor’s centre for the Dolomiti di Sesto/SextnerdolomitenNatural Park.

Most importantly, it now contains the“Auditorium Gustav
Mahler”: an astonishing
concert hall – opened in 1999 – with optimum acoustics, where most of the
initiatives for the yearly“Mahler Weeks
Festival” take place.

Even though this Festival is the peak event of the
year, the concert hall is also used throughout the rest of the year for
concerts, conferences and other activities, making it the most important
cultural hub not just for Dobbiaco but for the whole upper valley of Alta Val Pusteria/Hochpustertal.

In Dobbiaco there are several publicfountains, both in the
village and in the surrounding hamlets. Some are rustic and of an artisanal
make, using wood as their main material, while the two in the centre of town
are of historical relevance.

The project“Treasures of
Water”– launched in 2001 – contemplates a trail connecting
seven points of interest in and around Dobbiaco, centred around thetheme of water and comprising
fountains, springs, rivers, lakes, the district heating plant (see below) and kilns.

In terms of other notable civil architectures, one
should certainly includeHerbstenburgcastle– an imposing
defensive structure with castellated walls.

The castle, which was originally built as a tower, was
expanded at the time of Maximilian of Austria, and actually used by the Emperor
himself as a base when waging war on the Venetians.

Over the years, the tower was surrounded by
fortifications, and a subterranean tunnel leading to the so-called“Torre Rossa”(“Roter Turm”;
'Red Tower') was also dug.

This latter building – erected in 1430 for defensive
purposes – takes its name from the colour of the external walls. Several
legends and myths – and some disquieting discoveries – shroud both castle and
tower in mystery.

TheTown Hallwas erected in
1550 by theCounts Kunigl of Casteldarne/Eherenburg, who administered
justice and tax collection until 1826. It is an elegant building with a square
floor plan, which was used by the counts during the whole period of their
jurisdiction.

Mahler and Dobbiaco

From Dobbiaco Nuova, it is possible to reach – via an
easy route – the locality ofCarbonin Vecchia/Altschluderbach(not to be
confused withCarbonin/Schluderbach), where theMaso Trenker(Trenkerhof)
is situated.

This is where the composerGustav Mahlerspent the summers
from 1908 to 1910: it is here that he composed theNinthandTenth Symphonies(the latter one
left unfinished), and the famousSong of the Earth(“Das Lied von
der Erde”), the execution of which his author sadly never managed to
listen.

Given Mahler's deep connections with Dobbiaco,
entering the room where the famous composer stayed with his wife Alma is today
a very touching experience.

From theMaso Trenkerit is possible to
reach a fauna reserve, in the middle of which is the so-called“Composition
House”– a small wooden cabin where Mahler retired himself in
silence in order to compose his music.

Since 1981, in memory of Gustav Mahler – whose name is
inextricably linked with Dobbiaco – the“Settimane
Mahleriane”(“Mahler Weeks”) are held, with an oustandingly
rich program of conferences and concerts.

The main venue for this initiative is the“Grand Hotel”culture centre –
with the impressive concert hall dedicated to the composer himself – but in
fact the events are spread over the whole territory of theAlta Val
Pusteria/Hochpustertal, taking place also inVillabassa/Niederdorf, Monguelfo/Welsberg,San Candido/Innichen,Sesto/Sextenand SillianinOsttirol.

A short distance fromMaso Trenker– along CAI trail
marked No. 27 – are the hydro-mineral springs ofBagni di Maia/Bad
Maistatt, cited for the first time in 1273 and appreciated even by the Emperor
Maximilian, who sojourned here in 1511 to regain his health.

Today the establishment is closed, but a small chapel
remains available for walkers to rest, and a spa water spring can also still be
used.

Other Hamlets and Locations Around Dobbiaco

Dobbiaco has three main hamlets ('frazioni'):Carbonin/Schluderbach,Santa Maria/AufkirchenandValle San
Silvestro/Wahlen.

Carbonin/Schluderbach is, in fact, little more than a cluster of holiday homes and hotels in the vicinity of theLago di Landro/Durrensee– a "beauty
spot" at the head of the valley bearing the same name (below, see an image of the Sorapiss, as pictured from the Val di Landro/Hölensteintal).

Santa Maria/Aufkirchen, on the contrary, is clustered around the most important sanctuary in the whole Pusteria/Pustertal. Etymologically, the German name of the locality literally means“the church that stands above”.

Valle San Silvestro/Wahlenlies along the ancient route toValle di Casies/Gsiesertal. Its German toponym,Wahlen, contains the root ‘walch-’, which originally meant ‘Roman’ – a likely reference to a Roman language-speaking settlement as opposed to a Germanic one.

This is hardly surprising, when one considers that this area has always been at a crossroads between several peoples and cultures.

Within the territory of the municipality there are many other smaller hamlets or groups of isolated farmsteads known locally asmasi (‘Höfe’in German).

These includeCandelle/Kandellen, whose name comes from the Latin root‘cubitellus’– which literally means ‘elbow’: a likely reference to the shape of the small plateau where the hamlet is situated.

Costanosellari/Haselsbergetymologically originates from the Germanic root‘hasala’or‘hasele’, both referring to hazel shrubs.

Grazze/Gratschis a small settlement at the western extremity of Dobbiaco's territory, where in 1955 a Roman milestone was found, dating to the time of EmperorDecius(249-251).

Despite that, the name of the place seems to make a reference to the Slavonic root‘gradisc-’, meaning“a fortified site”. This hypothesis is backed up by the fact that in this area the Slavs gathered to defend themselves from an attack by the Bavarians in the 7th century.

The place name ofMonte Rota/Radsberg– literally meaning“damp fields”– is absolutely logic, when one considers that peat bogs used to be widespread in the area (and the remnants of these are protected today as nature biotopes). Still today, around this locality are beautiful meadows rich in Alpine species.

Interestingly, the nameCostabella/Schönhubenis not to be intended so much as meaning“beautiful slope”(if it were to be taken literally) but rather“field – or terrain – that gives a plentiful harvest”.

Other groups of ancient farmsteads includeFienili/Stadlern, Franadega/FrondeigenandSeghe/Säge– a name that makes an obvious reference to the presence of wood mills, given its location in close proximity to the river Rienza.

Economy and more Recent Developments

In spite of the fact that the local landscape seems to be dominated mainly byagriculture(43%) andforests(41%), in the last few years these figures have been slowly decreasing.

Even though cattle farming and forestry always remain important activities – and so the production of certain agricultural items such as a local variety of potato –tourismin the last few decades has been booming, and the general tendency has been for it to gradually take over other more traditional areas of employment.

Also, in 2008 Dobbiaco has been awarded a merit for being one of the Italian municipalities that uses one of the highest percentages of renewable energiesin relation to the number of its inhabitants.

This is due to the presence of an importantpower plant, and to the high number of solar panels and photovoltaic installations on private homes.

The district heating plant was opened in 1998, and it serves both the municipalities of Dobbiaco andSan Candido/Innichen.

Since 2005, the plant has been enlarged and drastically renovated, and now its generator for the combined production of thermo-electric energy is the major of its kind in Europe.

All in all, the plant produces enough clean thermal energy for the needs of both towns, and the district heating plant has become a very important feature in Dobbiaco.

Given the fact that 42% of the territory of South Tyrolis covered by woodland and forests, and there is a flourishing industry around wood transformation, the last few years have seen the implementation of serious projects in order to use the wastes of timber industry as a source of clean and renewable energy.

The system in use at the district heating plant utilises wood chippings as raw material – that is, the waste products of saw mills and of the timber industry.

Using this as a fuel, the thermal energy that is being produced at the end of the working process turns it into electricity. Part of the residual thermal energy goes into the production of steam instead, which is then used for the central heating; the heat – transported as steam – is eventually used to heat private and public homes, both in Dobbiaco and San Candido/Innichen.

The winning aspect of this system is the wide use of raw renewable energies that come originally as wastes of other productions – and the wood chippings are not only local, but also imported from countries as far away as Finland!

Lastly, thanks to the combined use of an electric and a condensation filter, there is minimal emission of exhaust gases.

To put this achievement more in perspective, the plant in Dobbiaco has a power of 18 megawatt, and burns annually 1.402.500 cubic metres of biomass.

The advantage to the final user is that they can plug this new system into their old gas and water mains, and use it instead; as the steam has to be very hot when it reaches the homes, the advantage is that of always having hot running water immediately available – with the added bonus that, in this way, there are no further costs to be sustained for the acquisition and maintenance of new boilers and tanks.

As with this system the water circulates ceaselessly, heat exchangers are also used in order to allow the returning water to heat the exit. In 2006, the district heating plant in Dobbiaco won the"Premio Solare Europeo"(European Solar Prize).

In 2009, Dobbiaco – together with three other municipalities in South Tyrol– has also entered the special chart of towns that have acquired plants for the production of energy deriving from renewable sources – and the following figure will give an idea of the achievement of Dobbiaco, as a surplus of 269% of energy is being produced beyond the local demand!

As well as heating and hot water for 1200 homes, the district power plant can also be visited, as it has been designed – right from the start – as an education facility, with the goal of passing on important information.

The fact that the plant can be visited in its entirety, in fact, makes it the foremostinformation circuit on biomass in Europe.

Local Products

The production of localcheesesis coordinated by the presence of a social dairy that was constituted in a Co-operative form since 1883 – and is therefore one of the most ancient in South Tyrol.

After the fusion with an analogous association in San Candido/Innichenin 2004, the social dairy is now hosted in a new venue, where it is much easier for the visitor to follow all the phases involved in milk processing, and its transformation into cheese.

The dairy products of the Co-operative include all the local varieties of cheese, such as the so-called“Stanga di Dobbiaco”and the“Formaggio Alta Pusteria”. Both products are included in the list of Italian typical products.

In addition, there is also a production of butter,Bergkäse(a soft cheese) andRigatino(a strongly aromatic cheese).

Thesocial dairycounts around 180 members, and – just to give an idea of its size – its 2,500 cows produce around 30,000 litres of milk a day.

The first part of a visit to the social dairy will be to the small museum, centred around the theme of history of dairy farming over the centuries; after that, the itinerary envisages a guided tour of the production area.

Also, despite the fact that in nearby San Candido/Innichenthere is an important industry for the production ofSpeck– the smoked ham typical ofSouth Tyrol– which has achieved international status, even in Dobbiaco there is a traditional butchery with a small associated production of Speck.

A Century-old Tradition

As we have seen, Dobbiaco can claim a century-old tradition in the field of tourism, and still today it offers – now ever more so than in the past – a changing variety for the walker and the nature lover.

Thefavorable geographic location, the vicinity of some of the most famous peaks in theDolomites(amongst which are the renownedTre Cime/Drei Zinnen), the abundantly sunny climate– and the multifold cultural and sportsactivitiesare all contributing factors to its success as a summer and winter resort alike, both in Italy and – because of the cultural roots of the area – in the neighbouring German-speaking countries too.

An interesting artistic and natural panorama is available to the visitor: old chapels and churches, ancient farmsteads (‘masi’),pathsby both man-made andnatural habitats,lakes,extensive woodlands, and the proximity of twoNatural Parks (“Dolomiti di Sesto/Sextnerdolomiten” and“Fanes–Sennes–Braies/Prags”), both rich in flora and fauna, all form a rich tapestry of ever-changing possibilities for the visitor.

Dobbiaco was widely spoken about when the heir prince of Germany-Sachsen Friedrich Wilhelmsojourned here with his family in 1887 after being stricken by illness, and many identify this date as the starting point of tourism in Dobbiaco.

In the following years the first hotels started to be built, such asGrand Hotel Baur(1870) in the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal,Hotel Germaniain 1890, Seehotelin 1893,Hotel Unionin 1900 and theBellevuein 1902; many other hotels followed in their wake.

Hotels started also to be erected inCarbonin/Schluderbach, such as theSchluderbachand theSigmundsbrunn– luxurious facilities which were frequented by a rich clientele, and had therefore particularly high prices.

Only at a much later stage – indeed, only after World War II – did mass-tourism start to develop in Dobbiaco, and today this is one of the foremost tourist destinations in the whole of South Tyrol, with more than 500,000 presences every year, 75% of which come from Italy, the rest mainly from neighbouring Germany and Austria – but the sheer beauty of this place would definitely deserve it to be better known far and wide.

Walks and Treks Around Dobbiaco

Of course, being as we said earlier one of the main'Gateways to the Dolomites', the area around Dobbiaco lends itself perfectly to walks and treks, especially in altitude.

The Dolomitesextend specifically to the south of town, and can be accessed through the narrow valley that leads first to theLake of Dobbiaco/Toblacherseeand then further into theVal di Landro (GermanHöhlensteintal), by theLago di Landro/Dürrensee.

This latter location provides a first entry point towards the area of the Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen– albeit by means of a long and steep path that ascends the narrow canyons of theValle della Rienza/RienztalandVal Rinbon, taking one eventually to theRifugio Locatelli/Drei-Zinnen-Hütte(2,405 m), an ideal base from which to explore the area (see the 'classic' picture of the Tre Cime/Drei Zinnenbelow, taken by theLago di Landro/Dürrensee).

If you're in for an easier option, you can just continue all the way to the Lake of Misurina, from where the classical ascent can be done either through the toll road or the path that starts past theLake of Antorno(for more details, see the Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen page).

More trails ascend on the other side of theVal di Landro/Höhlensteintal, and lead – amongst other places – toRifugio Vallandro/Dürrensteinhütte(2,040 m), a mountain hut on the edge of the beautiful high pastures ofPrato Piazza/Platzwiesen, from which it is also possible to descend by the shores of the picturesque Lago di Braies/Pragssee.

Otherwise – but you would need a bit more training for this – there is also the possibility to ascend fromPrato Piazza/Platzwieseto the peak ofPicco di Vallandro/Dürrenstein(2,839 m), which would reward you with a wide open view. An easier option from there is to climb upMonte Specie/Strudelkopf(2,307 m).

There are at least three mountain huts on the plateau, on which you can rely for accommodation and/or a hearty meal:Rifugio Prato Piazza/Platzwiesehütte (1,991 m) and Rifugio Vallandro/Dürrensteinhütte (2,040 m), open all year round, while a third facility – set in a beautiful wooden building – is open summer only (see below an image of the upland pastures at Prato Piazza).

More treks in altitude are possible from theVal di Landro/Höhlensteintaland includeMonte Piana(2,350 m) – a table mountain made infamous by WW1 events, where one will find a mountain hut (Rifugio A. Bosi; 2,205 m) that hosts a little museum dedicated to the war. There are two main ways to hike upMonte Piana; one is the so-called"Sentiero dei Pionieri (Pionerweg)"fromLago di Landro/Dürrensee, while the other is known as"Sentiero dei Turisti (Touristenstieg)", fromCarbonin/Schluderbach. Both options are relatively easy, with some exposed sections only near the summit. More information on all these options will be found on the Dolomiti di Sesto/Sextnerdolomitenpage (see below an image of the sea of rock of theDolomites, taken from the flat summit of Monte Piana and accompanied by a dramatic autumn sky).

North of town, albeit in a less scenic and frequented area (these hills are not Dolomite in nature, but rather crystalline and therefore more rounded), there are also plenty of possibilities for interesting walks (in fact, especially in the summer, this is a very good alternative in order to avoid the crowds that can make walking in the Dolomitesat times a bit overwhelming).

A good option is to follow theToblacher Hohenweg – a collective series of paths and trails which reach the highest peaks north of Dobbiaco, such asCorno Alto/Hochhorn(2,623 m) andCorno di Fana/Toblacher Pfannhorn(2,663 m). This may make for an interesting trek that takes one to the ridge marking the border with Austria first, and later follows a circular route with a descent into eitherSan Candido/Innichenor theValle di Casies/Gsiesertal. These are relatively easy excursions which would also be crowned by rewarding views at the top.

I would like now to describe a section of theToblacher Hohenwegin more detail, outlining the possibility of a circular trail starting and ending in Dobbiaco – a slightly more demanding option. The best way to emabark on this is by entering theValle San Silvestro/Silvestertaland reachMalga San Silvestro/Silvesteralm, where food and drink are available (1,800 m).

From there, the ascent begins in earnest to theCornetto di Confine/Marchkinkele(2,546 m) first, and then follows with the traverse to all the further summits:Sasso Planca(Blankenstein; 2,483 m);Corno Fana(Pfannhorn; 2,663 m);Corno Alto(Hochhorn; 2,623 m) and Monte Calvo(Golfen; 2,493 m), from where starts the descent to Franadega/Frondeigen(1,650 m) and then again into theValle San Silvestro/Silvestertal(by theRifugio Genziana/Enzianhütte).

This circular trail takes about 8/10 hours to complete, so it is quite a demanding trek that should not be undertaken lighty, even though there is the possibility to break it up in places.

Other easier options include the trails that go under the names of Römerweg('The Way of the Romans'),Bestimmungswegand Jakobsweg. While the latter one follows the course of the Drava/Drauon the southern side of the valley, the first two meander on the beautiful verdant meadows north of town, and take one in the direction ofMonte Rota/Ratsberg(1,877 m) andKirchberg(1,715 m), allowing also for a descent inVillabassa/NiederdorforMonguelfo/Welsberg.

The Lago di Dobbiaco/Toblach Lake Interpretive Nature Trail

The Dobbiaco/Toblach Lake loop interpretive nature trail comprises 11 stations and affords both young and old an excellent opportunity to discover the local wonders of nature. The trail provides visitors with detailed information concerning the flora, fauna and geomorphology of the area. Some of the stations afford the opportunity to test one’s skills; for example, at station 4 visitors are asked to identify the pillars that are camouflaged by their colors, in the manner of animal camouflage, while at station 9 they can find out whether their broad-jumping abilities match those of the forest denizens.

As one of the last remaining wetlands in the province, the Dobbiaco/Toblach Lake is much frequented by birds. During the bird breeding seasons in spring and fall, some rare species are also observed by the lake shores. The trail is around 2.5 kilometers long, and it can be hiked in just under an hour.

What Makes Dobbiaco so Unique?

To recap, here is a list of the main attractions and points of interest in and around Dobbiaco:

– TheTre Cime di Lavaredo (“Drei Zinnen”) are perhaps the most famous sight of the entireDolomites, and their famous northern face falls entirely within the territory of Dobbiaco;

– TheLake of Dobbiaco/Toblachersee– originated by a landslide – is ideal for quiet walks, or for outings with small boats that can be rented in situ;

– InCarbonin Vecchia/Altschluderbachone can still visit the composition house used by the composerGustav Mahler; here there is also a small animal park, especially aimed at those who are not able to walk and cannot get the chance to spot wildlife in its natural setting;

– By the impressive compound of theGrand Hotelare hosted – along with many other facilities – thevisitor centrefor the Dolomiti di Sesto/Sextnerdolomitenpark, theCeltic horoscopeand the three log cabins of the“Magical World of the Forest”: an information trail aimed at explaining the importance of woodland conservation and of forest ecosystems;

– TheHerbstenburgestate, with its towers and characteristic‘Erkers’ (Tyrolean bow-windows), is considered one of the most beautiful buildings of its genre in the area;

– The parish church of St. John the Baptist is deemed to bethe best preserved Baroque churchof the whole valley, while theSanctuary of Santa Maria/Aufkirchenis well known since ancient times as an important place of worship and pilgrimage;

The historicalVia Crucis, also, is Tyrol’s most ancient, and starts in the middle of the village by the parish church, then takes the visitor through some of the most beautiful meadows around town, with pastoral views;

– Theinformation circuitconnected to theDistrict heating power plant(“Centrale termica a biomassa”) is one of the foremost in Europe: powered with the waste products of the wood mills and timber industry, this plant provides central heating for the two municipalities of Dobbiaco andSan Candido/Innichen;

– The“Ferrovia delle Dolomiti”, which had known moments of glory during the winter Olympics ofCortina in 1956, was later abandoned and fell into disrepair – quite an inglorious end – but has today come back to life, even though in a different guise: it is now widely used both as acycle pathover the summer and for cross-country skiingin winter;

– Lastly,"Mondolatte Tre Cime"– the social dairy farm – also serves the two towns of Dobbiaco and San Candido/Innichen, offering an interesting circuit which makes for an educational (as well as tasty!) visit.

To conclude, the sheer beauty of this place would definitely deserve to make Dobbiaco/Toblach better known far and wide, as despite being massively frequented it has managed to retain a quiet and charming composure that have been all but lost in so many others of the mass-tourism resorts of the Dolomites.