Niki won't map **** cars, so if it has got an R Tech map on it then I can assure you that at one point it was 202bhp and would have been a good car.

A standard Cupra 180 is a very different drive to even a remapped K03, the mapped car will have much more torque, much more punch and a noticeable difference in power. If it isn't quicker than your mates Cupra, it's broken.

Check for boost leaks, check for faulty MAF sensor, check for weak actuator, generally have the car fully checked over. If you don't feel up to it yourself pay a specialist.

It wasn't any quicker at all it just about kept up , embarrassing realy ! I heard realy good things about rtec so I doubt it's there fault it is probably the motor at fault , would I be right in saying its got a k03s? I'm not too clued up with playing with turbos /actuators so I probably would mess!

I'm guessing if its faulty it won't make any difference? Out of curiosity how would you check for a lazy actuator ? Cheers

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Connect a pump to the pipe which goes to the top of the N75 valve and apply pressure to it.

Pull the actuator open by hand and see how much resistance there is, it should open with a little effort but not be slack.

It's worth adjusting the pre-load on the actuator too, a lot of cars have been ****ed about with by now. Slacken the actuator locking nuts right off and using your finger to gently press the actuator closed spin the outside nut up to the actuator arm, then mark one face of the nut with tipex and give it three complete turns. Lock it off with the inside nut and job's a good'un. (for a working actuator)

Not really, the MAF can be cleaned but more often than not it will do more damage than good.

Just leave it in place and unplug the sensor, go for a drive. Your ESP light will be on to signal the disconnected MAF, and you may need to clear fault codes when you reconnect but often it doesn't store.

Definitely needs to be RR before you start chasing BHP that your not sure you've lost surely?

I mean just because your not gaping your mates 180bhp Leon and leaving him in the dust with your extra 22bhp, doesn't necessarily mean your cars not running properly and it's not 202bhp.

Jardo has given some very sound advice- but personally I'd get it some 99 RON in her and chuck it on the dyno and see if any horses have been lost. There's no point in trying to fix stuff if it's not even broken?

I know the COV group have a RR day at AMD Essex either this week or next- but not sure on your location.

Cheers all for the advice, so this morning I did the n249 by pass and sai removal , I'm amazed with how much junk was removed! I have a couple of questions , firstly it's possible the n112 valve was not electrically connected coz I never had to unplug it! What diference would that make? Secondly with the sai removal thread it tells you to solder in two resistors one for sai connection & the other is the n112 connection I am just about to do that but do I still leave the n249 electrically connected? Last question is on th inlet manifold there are two vacume connections on I have just replaced the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator and left connected in the same manner and the other one next to it I have connected to the dv is this correct or does it need to go through a non return valve ? Just a bit of confusion on my part swapping between threads! Engine bay looks loads better & very impressed with the threads I have used for advice on this . Regards stuart

Well all done & just taken out for a drive and I can happily say it feels loads better , might just be me but as you power on the car even sounds like it roars and it feels pretty quick so I think when I get chance a rolling road is in order to check everything over as advised earlier .
cheers Stuart

those curves are before and after... 130bhp and 120 torques before 180bhp and 180 torques after so not 202 no sorry dude, unless the previous owner fixed the problems. problems are on the next sheet, boost leak around the catch can mod? and an after market cat/decat restricting flow!?

Maybe not totally relevant but I had a golf mk4 gti with the aum engine so it had a ko3s, it was mapped by r-tec to 221bhp and was massively quicker than a standard car, as a comparison it was almost exactly the same as a standard astra vxr on acceleration, a vxr would easily beat a Cupra 1.8T 180.

Now I know the gti is 150bhp as standard so not the same but once mapped should give a similar figure to the OPs mapped car

those curves are before and after... 130bhp and 120 torques before 180bhp and 180 torques after so not 202 no sorry dude, unless the previous owner fixed the problems. problems are on the next sheet, boost leak around the catch can mod? and an after market cat/decat restricting flow!?

correction again your right, those figure i gave are at the wheels, zoomed in at the top! so your actual every day figure i.e at the flywheel is 202bhp and 152 lbs ft of torque they are very good figures mate and that should smash your mates cupra unless the cupra's been played with aswell?? check for boost leaks and replace all the vac lines with a lenghts of cheap samco off ebay if your on a budget... check all your n75 pipes and from the turbo through the intercooler and to the inlet aswell. not worth changing anything else until you've checked all this is good and mayybe fitted new clips!? good luck

That graph isn't healthy, that graph looks like a K03 graph, not a K03s! Even a standard car should map to 215bhp in good running order.

What Niki has put there is that there is a boost leak and removing the PCV system will help to rectify the fault. Niki won't map "leaky" cars anymore, because they are always turd and not worth putting his name to for obvious reasons.

i actually read the 180 torque figure off of the bhp numbers then corrected myself... smart arse! nice job with your car btw!-) i know rtec do a custom map so i guess it should be higher than a generic map, im pretty new to the 1.8t scene to be honest... in the end i read it right no?

As youl see by jardos signature, ko3s cars are putting out some immense torque figures recently, proper impressive. So those figures by the OP, just not good at all im afraid. But for obvious reasons.
Get them sorted, a health check by someone in the know i.e logging, and get back to r-tech for something solid.

Thanks for all the views & opinions good or bad the are welcomed I hope that all the **** I have removed today had made a positive impact , now it's just a case of getting it checked out regarding the turbo & n75 & actuator it's my first petrol turbo so it's all new I've had high power diesels & an m3 so I'm reluctant to mess until I know the score , it can't be that difficult but it's nice for someone clued up to show you what the crack is .

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