Nice work finding that stuff. I wonder how you found the one that's in a foreign language- none of the words in your search criteria would turn them up in the results! But some things are not lost in translation. Example:

"Jesus man wat een goed proefwerk "

This guy's pretty much got the exact idea I had. I wish I could red his language, it's probably chocked full of good notes on rogue RFVC modifications.

im wondering why the tensioner is a slider and not a roller? surely there would be alot less wear and tear if a sprocket on an axle on a spring was the tensioner?

also why wouldnt it be positioned closer to half way between the camshaft and the crankshaft rather than so close to the cam? surely if it was more in the middle it could be more controlling of the chain?

The XR/XRL line of engine have a cam chain tensioner that uses a one way bearing that along with the spring keeps constant tension on the cam chain guide. The tensioner pivot is that chrome piece at the right rear side of the head. There is a lock-pin that keeps it in position relative to the tensioner. The guides (2) are steel that have a rubber type of layer on them. The forward guide is static for the tension side (under load runs stratght and true) of the cam chain travel and the rear is the adjustable side (takes up the slack) for the return side of cam chain travel. Tension is applied at near the upper end of the guide because that is where it fits. No can do mid guide = middle of cylinder. It's not putting a whole lot of tension on the guide, just enough to keep things quiet. Set it + forget it...

My XR needed a cam chain replaced recently as I could not get the cam to time correctly. My son's XRL with 30,000 + miles is still on the OE guides and tensioner as does my XR. Honda has not changed the tensioner as far back to 83 if not longer. I have never seen a guide worn out in all the engines I have worked on. Wear yes, worn out, no.

Sometimes I have to give the cable a little wiggle and tug and reseat it "just right" in the bracket/clamp thingy down at the engine end. On mine, it seems to be held in there only by the tension of the cable itself. The metal end of the cable can pop out of the bracket, pulling the insides of the cable just far enough to mess things up.

It's happened often enough that it's now one of the things I check as part of my startup voodoo.