024: Garrett McNamara/Redefining The Boundaries

Another quiet day at Nazare.

“My approach is very balls to the wall. Make it or break it. Put it all on the line to get the ultimate ride”.

Another week, another legend – this time big wave surfer and extreme waterman, the great Garrett McNamara. Garrett was in London for a few days during mid November 2017, so I seized the chance to sit down with him for an hour and look back over his storied, spectacular career.

“My whole life, I chose to go”.

And what stories these are. Whether it’s growing up surfing Halewia and then pioneering the outer reefs, or dedicating his life to Nazare, Gmac’s life story reads as a guide to big wave surfing’s recent history, and in this chat we cover the lot.