You take the three measurements in sequence (1,2,3) rotating the strips in your micrometer clockwise starting with the enamel side. From this you establish which is the largest , second largest and smallest dimension.

This gives you a sequence (eg. 1,3,2 or 3,1,2 etc.)

You then place the strip in the form and cant the plane relative to the enamel side as shown.

These are 2 recent rods. The one with green wraps and the dark panga-panga reelseat is a fairly quick and crisp 2 wt dry fly rod. The other one with the laminated bamboo reelseat and the honey and brown wraps to match is a smooth and fuller action 7 ft 3wt. Both are 3 piece rods 7’6″ 2wt and 7′ 3wt – panga panga and bamboo reelseats

Dedicated live centre – front view. Aluminium bar bored to fit a bearing. The very end of the rod section is first turned to match the bearing ID. The rod can then be fitted into the bearing which acts as live centre whilst turning the rod/grip

Dedicated live centre – rear view. Aluminium bar is turned so that it can fit a tailstock chuck or straight into the tailstock with a morse tapered section

Cork centre-front view – This piece is to hold a cork butt cap. It fits into the dedicated live centre above (and as below)

Dedicated live centre plus cork centre – the piece on the right is the dedicated live centre. The piece on the left is the cork centre. It holds a cork butt and fits into the dedicated live centre

Insert turning parts-The top piece goes into the headstock chuck up to the shoulder. The other piece takes a live centre. The insert (drilled with 8mm hole) goes over the 8mm threaded rod

Insert mortise turning parts. One piece goes into the headstock chuck up to the shoulder. The other piece takes a live centre. The insert (drilled with 8mm hole and turned to size) goes over the offset 8mm threaded rod.

Expanding mandrel – for holding a butt cap or slide band for facing/polishing etc. Aluminum bar drilled right through, then tapped most of the way through from rear, then slit most of the way from the front. The tip of the bolt is tapered down. The cap/ring is fitted, the bolt tightened until the cap/ring is held firm, then the piece is mounted in the headstock chuck

Libellulidae dragonfly nymphs are frequently found in stillwaters. These nymphs differ from the Aeshnidae nymphs in that they are wide and flat rather than cylindrical in cross section. They tend to be sandy/tan coloured nymphs with lighter bellies and darker backs.They are often a lot smaller than the Aeshnidae.

Completed fly top view showing wide body. (The ribbing could be more evenly spaced but this does not worry me too much. I tend to tie many of my flies in a casual ‘rough and ready’ way as I think they end up being more ‘buggy’)

Step 3 -Tie in a strand of thin chenille behind the eyes, loop around rear of fly and return. This forms the wide flat body for the fly. The colour of the chenille is not critical because it will be covered with dubbing in this version of the fly.

Step 3 -Chenille tied in – side view. Fly profile kept slim

Step 4- Squeeze a bead of Loon UV Knotsense onto the chenille. (You could use a fast setting epoxy if you are willing to wait a few minutes whilst it cures)

Step 5 – Set the UV Knotsense with UV light – this is an inexpensive UV keyring light. Repeat the UV Knotsense application on the underside of the fly to bond the chenille to the hook

Step 6 – Spin a dubbing noodle of tan/yellow/sandy coloured dubbing

Step 7- wrap dubbing over chenille to behind the eyes

Step 7- top view

Step 8 – Gently wind copper in even turns to behind the eyes being careful not to compress the sides of the body. Use the wire to form a waist behind the eyes

Step 8 -top view showing a ‘waist’ formed behind the eyes

Step 9 – strip and trim a soft hackle feather for the legs as shown

Step 9 – Tie in the tip of the feather to the underside of the hook at the waist behind the eyes

Step 10- Fold the soft hackle feather forward and tie in, in front of the eyes (You can simply wind a turn or two of hackle instead and massage the fibres into place when forming the head – you ideally want them on the sides and pointing slightly down)

Step 11- Spin another dubbing noodle and form the head with figure of 8 turns over eyes