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The lowdown

After four decades of faithful service to Peter Luger, its former headwaiter, Wolfgang Zwiener, has opened a restaurant of his own. The elegant room with its striking Guastavino-designed vault ceiling, a bigger menu with more seafood, and the credit-card policy (they take them) distinguish Wolfgang’s from Peter Luger. The meat, though, is prime, dry-aged for about 28 days in a basement locker and cut into porterhouse steaks for two, three, or four, just the way they do it in Brooklyn.