The Well-Tempered Wok

Published: February 9, 2005

(Page 2 of 2)

MANY Chinese-Americans buy new woks or wok tools before the Lunar New Year to bring the holiday's theme of renewal into the kitchen. A new wok needs seasoning, the first step in acquiring the patina of a ''virtuous wok'' -- a Chinese term for a wok that has served its owner long and well.

The best wok for most American kitchens is a 14-inch heavy-gauge carbon-steel wok with a flat bottom. Although the flat bottom is not authentically Chinese, it corrects for the completely different design of American stovetops. To test the gauge of the metal hold the wok in both hands and try to press them together. If the metal flexes at all, the wok is too thin.

(Nonstick woks need not be seasoned, but most Chinese cooks do not use nonstick woks for stir-frying. The surface never gets hot enough. Nonstick is fine for steaming or deep-frying.)

To season a wok you need vegetable oil and a fistful of Chinese chives, cut into two-inch lengths. If Chinese chives are unavailable, substitute a bunch of scallions, cut into two-inch lengths, and half a cup of fresh ginger slices. Open a window and turn the exhaust fan on, if possible.

Scrub the wok with hot, soapy water. Dry it well and put it on the stove. Turn the heat to low and heat the pan just until it is dry. Turn the heat to high. To test the heat, flick a few drops of water into the wok. When the water vaporizes within two seconds, the wok is hot.

Swirl two tablespoons of oil around the edges of the wok and add the chives. Reduce the heat to medium and stir-fry for five minutes, using a spatula to push the aromatics and the oil up the sides of the wok.

Make sure that the wok's inside surface is completely coated with oil, even the top edges. If necessary, add another tablespoon of oil. Turn off the heat, let cool and discard the mixture.

Wash the wok again with hot water and a soft sponge. (Soap should never be used on a seasoned wok. It will remove the patina.) Dry it over low heat for two minutes. The wok is now ready for cooking.

To rescue an old wok that has rusted or become dusty pour a cup of coarse salt into it. Heat it over medium heat for five minutes, then let it cool completely. Using a soft rag, rub the salt over the surface of the wok until it is clean. Then reseason it as above.

1. In a large bowl combine 2 cups cold water and 1 tablespoon salt, stirring until salt is dissolved. Add shrimp, and let stand five minutes. Rinse shrimp under cold running water, and set to dry on paper towels. With more towels, pat shrimp dry. In a bowl, combine broth, wine, soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar and pepper.
2. Heat a wok over high heat. To test heat flick a few drops of water into wok. When water vaporizes within 2 seconds, wok is hot. Swirl in 1 tablespoon oil around sides of wok. Add shrimp, spreading them in a single layer, so they have contact with hot metal. Stir-fry for 1 minute or just until pink, tossing them with a wok shovel or spatula. Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil, garlic and ginger, and stir-fry 5 seconds. Add snow peas and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and stir-fry 1 minute more..
3. Stir cornstarch mixture, swirl it in around sides of wok, and bring to a boil. Stir-fry just until shrimp are cooked through and sauce has thickened, about 30 seconds more. Stir in scallions, and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 to 4 servings.

Candied Walnuts
Adapted from Grace Young
Time: 30 minutes

1 pound shelled walnut halves
1 cup sugar
6 cups vegetable oil.

1. In a saucepan bring 1 quart water to a boil over high heat. Add walnuts, and return to a boil. Drain in a colander and immediately return to pan. Add sugar, and mix constantly with a rubber spatula until sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Nuts will be shiny and coated in sugar.
2. Lay out about 2 feet of aluminum foil. In a wok or deep pot, heat oil to 375 degrees over medium-high heat. Carefully add walnuts, spreading them out in oil. Let them cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then cook, stirring, 1 to 3 minutes more, until golden brown.
3. Turn off heat and quickly remove nuts with a slotted spoon, spreading them out on foil. Make sure nuts do not touch one another. When nuts have cooled, transfer them to drain on paper towels, then into an airtight container.
Yield: 4 cups.

Photos: BY HAND -- Chefs buy from artisans who hammer each wok from a single piece of carbon steel. (Photo by Alan Richardson)(pg. F1); SEASONING -- Grace Young preparing the inside of a wok with Chinese chives. (Photo by Ruby Washington/The New York Times); ORIGINS -- From the book ''The Breath of a Wok,'' a blacksmith in Guangxi Province. (Photo by Alan Richardson)(pg. F4)