Hi, This is the procedure to program the remote:1. Close all vehicle doors. 2. Insert the key into the ignition. 3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver&#146;s door panel-continue to hold down until instructed to release in step 9. 4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession. 5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine). 6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically. 10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until the door locks and unlocks. This step may take up to 30 seconds. 11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing transmitters). 12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode. I have done it to get more than one transmitter to my Blazer, and it works.Good luck, Magnus, Sweden.

I can't get the front axle to engage when changing into 4wd. I have checked the relays, they work. The switch work, and when pressing 4HI when driving, you can feel it engage. 4LO changes the transmission into low gear, but still not 4wd. When raising the vehicle and go to 4wd, the drive shaft to the front axle start to rotate as well. The vacuum actuator under the battery tray works and pulls the wire real strong. But the front wheels still wont rotate. I think the problem must be inside the front axle!? Do anyone have any suggestions? Please help, I need the 4wd when the snow start to fall.1998 Blazer LT

Ok, after some digging, and twisting arms and pulling hair, I finally got told the deal as to why my new remote wouldnt program. As it turns out, it does have to do with the after-market alarm. Its a GM after market alarm, and the old remote was for it.But, now for the bad part, that remote and its replacement are no longer made.It took a Chevy Parts man 4 hours to figure everything out. I went to places where alarms are sold and put in. About 15 of them and it was like, they just stared at me like I had something wrong with me. Came home and searched online remote outlets like keylessride and the like and still no luck. One gu told me I could just search for the FCC number instead of the P/N. But would that work? Find one that ues the same freq range?

Did the vehicle originally have remote keyless entry installed at the factory? Look on the white tag in the glove box for the code AU0.

AU0 : LOCK CONTROL, REMOTE ENTRY &#150; KEYLESS ENTRY (DOMESTIC)

If the vehicle had this installed at the factory, the OEM key fob for that year model would work.

I even took my 2002 which did not have RKE originally, installed the receiver (harness is already there, just plugs in above the parking brake), ordered a couple of fobs, had the dealer "tell" the body control module that the RKE was there, programmed the fobs, and voila, everything works perfectly.

no, It didnt come with one. Thats why it has what they call a dealer installed alarm or remote system. There for It has a remote that they put with it. ANd since I didnt have it put in, it was in when I bought it, I have no Idea which dealer did. So, Im out of luck there.I guess I could go to a dealer and get another put in to replace this one. Or just get a viper or another brand put in. I did hear about buying the chip and box to have remote working, but, how much is it and how hard is it to install?

The 02 sensor has nothing to do with the heater. Either the thermostat doesnt work or it could be low on antifreeze. As well as the heater core might be cracked. ANy smell of antifreeze in the cab of the truck? If not check the thermostat...

You can try to crawl under the truck and pull on the cable by hand really hard to get it to release. But BE CAREFULL WEAR SOME GLOVES! It will be tight, if that doesnt work try to get it to release from under the dash i know the release is broken but u might be able to put a screw driver in there and pop it loose as well

95 Blazer, when trying to put it in 4 hi or lo, lights flicker and it stays in 2 wheel drive, also no heat or a/c coming from the 4 vents above the radio. The reason: PCV valve was bad. Obviously, the 4 wheel drive and the heat-a/c get their vacuum source from the PCV valve, While I was tracing the vacuum lines I accidently pulled the PVC valve from the valve cover. I noticed it wasn't rattling when I shook it so I replaced it ($5) and now everything works!

Another time saver is run a light from your ground on the battery and other end to a ground,,light should turn on if short. If on, go to fuse box and pull one fuse at a time and replace. Do this until the light goes out,,this will at least isolate the problem.

My blazer starts and stalls alot when the dash lights come on before starting it starts up just fine now the lights don't come on just the radio and dome light ot turns over but never cranks up just replaced the battery it started for about an hour then the dash lights went out and nothing. I need some help!!!

My 2001 GMC Jimmy SLE has cruise control and I thought there was a light on the instrument panel that lit up when cruise control was on. There is one on my 2004 Sierra. But, either the light is burned out, or there isn't one. I can't find it in the owner's manual. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a light? :confuse:

I purchased my 1998 Jimmy 4X4 in May this year. When I got it, I only received ONE igntion key for it. I had 2 more keys cut immediately to have some spares. But it had automatic door locks and power windows, etc., so I thought it might have been set up for keyless entry. Sure enough, I found on this forum the info that if it had an "AU0" build code on the glove box door, it should be all set for RKE. I found the AU0 code, and then I found your instructions of how to program the RKE fob. So I ordered 2 new fobs from gmpartsdirect.com for about $40 each, and by using your procedure, "SHAZAMM", I now have keyless entry for my Jimmy withourt having to pay a hunk of money to a GM dealer to make it work.So you get a big ATTABOY from me!!!

I have a 2002 Blazer I got for free from my mother in law. Sounds great, except it's ruining my life. The anti theft system works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. It has a mind of it's own. I would recommend taking it out all together. Mine is a little bit newer than yours. The anti theft system is probably an upgrade compared to your old anti theft system and it still gives me problems. I think they all should be discontinued. Take it out and just get a club.

I don't believe this is happen to my 95 Blazer,cost me a motor and new oil cooler,garage said they could not leave it off or change it out.ended up paying over 2000,to get everything fixed they should recall.

Hi,I've got a 1998 GMC Jimmy with 260000 miles. Car has been nonstop. Minor repairs. Been using Amzoil for a couple of years.Wife went to start and it suddenlly stopped with quite a jar.After that it would crank but backfire through intake.I set #1 at TDC and distributor was facing #4Pulled distributor and gear is in tack.I have pulled the timing chain cover and all is well there. Marks line up on crank gear and cam gear. So I'm pulling motor. But was hopefull someone might have experienced this. Could cam gear have slipped or is it machined to cam?Can distributor have enough lateral travel that cam and distributor shaft would disengage?Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Buzz

Don't pull the engine... I had a similar experience with a Chevy V8... Just as the engine started to crank... it stopped with quite a jar... just like you described. Any further attempts to start at that time... and the engine acted like it was locked up. I let it sit for a couple of hours... then it started... but had a lifter noise in #8. I noticed that the plug wire had come loose... but was still on the plug. The engine eventually started again... but took half a tank of gas before the lifter quieted down.

I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I use it in my 96 Blazer... and my 81 Grand Prix.

Suggestions: Pull all the plugs... see if the engine will crank... if so... see if any fuel comes out of any of the cylinders... particularly 5 or 6. If so... the most likely cause is a leaking fuel regulator inside the plentum.

Thanks TJ, I'll take a look.I've negelected Jimmy far to long. Pulled the radiator and the lower half was clogged. I'll pull the accessory brackets and pull plugs, it needs a tune up something bad. l just want it last till next summer when we'll buy something newer.Thanks for the advice and I'll post what I find, sometime this week.Buzz

OK... good luck... I am in the Tampa Bay area in Florida... Looking to share experiences I have had with my 96 Blazer. I have kept up maintenance... all synthetic lubricants including grease.

The transmission went down at the 162,000 mile mark... 3-4 gear clutch pack finally went. I purchased vehicle with 81,000 miles in 2004... flushed the transmission three times before it went down. I found a shop that had all kinds of test equipment... for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc... all the parts inside so that they knew everything was working before the put anything back in the tranny. They also insisted that the transmission be filled with Synthetic ATF... I had no problem with that... as I had never had the opportunity to use the Amsoil ATF. Trans runs about 50 degrees cooler.

I currently have 182,000 miles... about two years ago I wanted to put a dist cap on with brass contacts. I order my wires, cap and rotors from Jacobs Electronics. The cap and rotor I orderd two years ago... turned out to have aluminum contacts when I opened it this last June. I did not change it right away... because I had just changed out the cap, rotor, and wires with AC Delco parts... I should have done so right away. Anyway... about six months ago I called around looking for a cap with brass contacts... AutoZone and Advanced Auto gave me a price of $65.00... too rich for me... so I just put it on the back burner. I checked again two weeks ago... Neither store carries them... so I ended up at NAPA... $41.00... I will be buying another dist cap next mount to keep on the shelf... my point is... the brass contacts made a big difference in idle and performance... still getting numbers on miles per gallon... but before I did the change... I was getting 20-21 MPG.

Does anyone have a diagram that shows the wiring harness to the shifter... plug has about six wires... locks the shifter when in park... grey is instrument lights... for the selector window... black is usually ground... I need to know what the other four are... one is pink... one is yellow... one is purple... if I remember correctly.

Every time I'm towing a load ( tent trailer or utility trailer ) with moderate loads, going up hills causes the engine to misfire and lose power. Eventually, the check engine lights comes on to indicate P300 ( misfire undetermined ). What is the first course of action to take except an expensive tune up?

Misfire under load is almost always an ignition problem. You could buy spark plugs and try that. I don't recall if your year/model uses coil packs or actual distributor cap and wires, but if the latter you could replace those, too.

First, be sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC. If so, and the dist is pointing to #4, there has to be a break in the valve train. First thing to check is that the timimg marks still line up on the timing gears, cuz it sounds like the thiming chain has jumped teeth. If timing gears/chain are good, and distributor is good, then must be camshaft related, but I've never heard of this actually happening, it's usually the chain/gears.

Here's the poop: 2001 Blazer LT, 122,000 miles. Had the fuel pump replaced (11/25) and the fuel pump relay was checked (same time) and it works fine. Ok,I have driven it daily since the pump was replaced. Drove it to work and home on Tuesday. Took the wife's car to my Mom's Wednesday morning and got home Saturday. Got in it this morning (Monday) and low and behold it WILL NOT start. It sat for five days. It rained all day Sunday. I popped the hood and it looked like everything was covered with moisture to include the distributor cap. Turns over but won't catch. I hear the pump prime up but it will not catch. My wife tried it this afternon (sat for about 4 hours).I have absolutley no idea what is wrong or where to look. I am so over workng on this thing, I can't stand it!!!! :mad:

Stup[id me,Being an old school 'wrench' I was accustomed to a normal distributor cap.I didn't realize that the actual contact for #4 was opposite from the #4 wire.I pulled the timing chain cover off and all was well. So I pulled the accessories off and cleaned everything. Bought all new tune up parts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,Still no start and I hear that dreaded sucking sound coming out of the intake like a bad valve. Plus the backfire through the intake.So we're looking for another rig. I want another Blazer, but she wants a frickin' Pontiac Vibe......................:(Thanks for the replies. But think it'll sit till next summer. Thinking about a 350 CI for it. Be a long term project a real sleeper.Buzz

i have a 96 chevy blazer that i recently had a new engine put in with 110k on the motor. it was sitting for about 5 months beofre the new engine was put in and driven again. when i got it back i put it into nuetral and put it into 4 hi and when i put it back into drive i went forward and every quarter turn of the front tires spinning it would make a loud clunking noise like something was grinding in the drivetrain. im not sure if its the front differential axles or something ive heard about the acuator?? any information and help is appreciated.