Here's a good one for you to think about. '95 1.0 5 spd, gets around 26 mpg and the pipe is caked with soot. I put a meter on the O2 sensor and it crosscounts normally until you rev it over 2500+ then it slams right up to .9+ volts. I'm figuring the sensor is good because it's seeing it go rich. I pulled the exhaust off to make sure the cat wasn't compounding the problem. I swapped out the injector with another one and got the same readings. I read someone had replaced their Map sensor and fixed a rich condition so I threw a hail mary and bought one. I don't think it did anything, still goes way rich as it revs up but idles totally normal. Does this sound familier to any of you guys?

This thing really has me puzzled, and I don't get this way easy. I'm a mechanic by trade so I feel pretty foolish letting this tiny car stump me so easily. I rebuilt the engine last year just because it was getting tired (I thought). Turned out it would've gone another 100k with just a couple oil leaks fixed and rebuilt lifters. Anyway... after the rebuild it had 3/4s of a tank of fuel which it burnt through pretty fast. After a fresh tank we checked the mileage, 28?!?!? That can't be right! We've owned it since new and it always got between 38 and 40 but we drove it like we were mad at it. I had let the wife drive it to work for this first tank so I figured maybe she was doing something weird with it, so I drove it around for the second tank and it only got 26 the next time! Funny thing is, it didn't seem to run much different than it ever has? Maybe it was down a few hp but I couldn't say for sure. I had been hearing funny sounds coming from the fuel tank so I replaced the pump and that has just made the flooding worse. The last drive home with it was actually making it stumble with too much throttle. Naturally, not a check engine light to be seen through all of this. I watched down the TB last night with a flashlight with it gradually revving up and watching the O2 mv on my meter. As it went rich, I couldn't really see anything that changed on the spray pattern. I haven't looked at it with a timing light yet, that'll be next I guess.

Drove it around Saturday and filled the tank. It definately looses power past about 1/2 throttle and I saw fresh black soot in the tail pipe when we got home. Still have no clue what would make it over fuel so bad? I'm thinking it's going out of closed loop, but not sure if it can do that without throwing a code??

Still playing with this thing. I replaced the gauge pod to get a tach last night. I've always wanted one! We drove it around last night to test it out and I noticed something I hadn't with the old temp gauge. If you let it just idle the temp actually climbs up a bit and just sits there and when I rev it up (like when you drive) it drops like a 1/4 of an inch. At this point it's only about a 3rd of the way up, so I'm thinking it's just getting cold enough to fall out of loop. I better check the thermostat. It's been a while since I put it in there, I had a memory of all the times I've replaced factory stats with cheap ones and drilled little air bleed holes in them. If I did that to this one that could be my problem! Lots to do (and we just lost an hour) so not sure today is the day to find out. It stopped raining for the moment and I have a ton of stuff to do outside.

.On this model it is common for the TB shaft to leak from wear and thats were you would get a "Vacume leak "

Have you done a compression test.?Please post the numbers.!

You sound like a good wrench and you know if the engine never get out off open loop (cold start) or( limp mode)the fuel values would not change they are set from the factory........My old man say 90% of carburator problems are electrical .!And this would also apply to FI engines .(Rich fuel condition)

How are your ground.? Is the ECM getting the proper voltage.?..... @ 2500 you should have 13.5VDo you have a bitchin sound system robbing much needed Voltage from you engine management.?.Can you tell me were you picked up the tach input from.?.There something missing here which make it hard to diagnose your problem..?.Is this car bone stock .?Have you done any other modification to your car.?.......jv&s.

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t3 ragtop wrote:

the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.

suprf1y wrote:

I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.

The tach is plug and play, besides the fun of getting it in there anyway.

The car is bone stock and is probably the nicest 95 you'll ever see. I'll figure it out eventually, I was just thinking someone must have had this problem before. It seems like this car always has a problem that has never happened before.

I think the story has a happy ending, finally!I found an ECM on eBay for $30 (shipped) week before last so I snagged it. I swapped it in and it didn't really cure much but the car did seem to run smoother so I figured it was money well spent.

I decided to put a fuel pressure gauge on the car at work today. It started out fine (20-30 psi) but after less than 5 minutes of running on the road it spiked up to 75 pounds!!! Must be that replacement fuel pump going bonkers, I thought. But we found out that just venting the gas cap would bring it right back down! We then started checking the vapor canister and hoses. The canister isn't plugged, but something in the vent solonoid goes haywire when you rev it up for any length of time. We finally figured out that it must just vent outside when it's 'off' cuz it runs fine if I just unplug it. My soot black pipe turned snow white after about 5 minutes of running. Ran like a champ all the way home.

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