Description

A relatively easy area, with mainly trad routes. Some protect well, others don't. If you are looking for an alternate spot to climb when Schoolroom is busy, come here. The rock is a little dirtier then the rest of Gate.

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

1 Comment

This area has two main approaches, the first is to the ledge beneath what I'd call the Left Side of Five Fingers Area. The second is to the Center-Right side of Five Fingers, ending at a big ledge beneath Fat Man's Misery (which I will call Fat Man's Ledge here), which has a large pine tree on the right side.

Left Side Approach The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows, just beyond CallItWhatYouPlease. It is the steep gully filled with blocks and some trees.

You can also start it by first traversing low from the left side of Fat Man's Ledge (e.g. if you are working 5 Fingers area right-to-left). Do a broad step across to some fins & hand-sized jam and you're off! A belay might be nice for this traverse.

Center-Right Side Approach This describes the approach to Fat Man's Ledge. You can set a gear anchor at the far left end here and it is the most convenient ledge in this area for sitting down & placing packs. The approach passes most other routes.

From beneath the scramble to the Left Side, continue walking along the base of the cliff. You will reach an exposed and improbable traverse across a cl. 3-4 mottled slab. Footholds are good, but a fall would be bad. Many people might appreciate a belay here. The best line is to scramble down low, and mostly traverse straight across and occasionally lower in order to have the best features.

You can continue straight up a dirty chimney groove and brush to reach the pine tree that marks the right edge of Fat Man's Ledge, or you can climb up & zig right to end up in the grooves beneath the Five Fingers Routes. From here you can continue right, or zag back left for a cleaner approach to the pine tree. A belay might be enjoyed on this section as well, although it isn't quite as exposed.

While the pine tree is a good landmark, it is awkward to hang out at and belay from, and seems best for belaying Scumbag Crack. For Fat Man's Misery, it may be nicer to belay from the gear anchor on Fat Man's Ledge, traverse right to start, and climb high before placing gear.