More of Mozza

Osteria Mozza, the long-awaited counterpart to Pizzeria Mozza, is finally open … but good luck getting in the door. As with the pizzeria after opening, the osteria is booked solid for the next month—call first thing in the morning for a reservation a month from that day. You can try your luck at the bar, where they offer the full menu and take walk-ins.

It’s a little more formal than Pizzeria Mozza, but not so much that you wouldn’t feel comfortable walking in on a whim and eating at the bar, says Dylan, who had dinner there and saw Mario Batali dining with his family, orange clogs and all, while Nancy Silverton worked the line in the kitchen.

There’s a selection of mozzarella appetizers, and among the pastas, first responders are raving about orecchiette with sausage and chard melting together in a satisfying combo; an ultrarich giant raviolo filled with ricotta and a soft egg yolk in brown butter sauce; and pasta with Bolognese sauce.

For secondi, standouts are lamb chops with Greek yogurt; fish stuffed with herbs and served whole; moist and flavorful pork; guinea hen; and spot prawns.

Side dishes are small but delicious, such as a custardy slow-cooked broccoli, small Yukon Golds that seemingly had been poached in chicken broth and then sautéed in olive oil, and the spinach.

There’s a cheese course, and impressively interesting desserts including almond cornette, an almond croissant infused with floral syrup and served with an intense stewed plum; frozen Greek yogurt, like Mozza’s take on Pinkberry; olive oil gelato; and bomblini fritters—mini beignets served with raspberry coulis.

Wine list is all Italian, nothing local, but it looks good. Like at the pizzeria, you can order by the carafe for a few glasses rather than a whole bottle.