Building a Better Burger

THELATEST IN the happy boomlet of Pioneer Square luncheries, BuiltBurger is a tidy, minimalist burger joint with a laudable schtick: fixins ground up inside the meat. So mustards and braised Market House pastrami turn the Supreme Pastrami “burger” into something more like a Reuben; Mexican chorizo, roasted poblano, and cotija cheese sex up the Magnificent Chorizo to something much more—and moister!—than the sum of its parts, especially when they scoop on the brisk cilantro-lime slaw. A ton of research has gone into the seven-plus compositions (BuiltBurger got its start as a patty wholesaler) and their embellishments, which run to hand-cut fries, potato “beignets,” and a series of pungent dips. Flavorless burgers, you have met your match.