IT is the highest accolade in the culinary world – the famous Michelin star.

Only four chefs in Wales currently hold one, and next month they will be sharing the secrets of their success.

Chefs James Sommerin, Bryan Webb, Shane Hughes and Shaun Hill will be discussing their cooking with editor of the Great Britain and Ireland Michelin Guide, Derek Bulmer, at a series of sessions at the 2010 Hay Festival.

“Our guide features 2,000 restaurants and 140 of them, including these four, stand out as the best,” explained Mr Bulmer, who joined Michelin in 1977.

“We have a team of 10 full-time inspectors who travel around the country three weeks out of four, staying in hotels and restaurants incognito.

“We break the British Isles up into 35 regions, with each inspector visiting five areas.

“We can keep their identity a secret because they are unlikely to visit the same restaurant more than once in 10 years.

“They come from the hotel and catering industry. They only make their identity known to the proprietors when they leave.

“And inspectors visit each establishment more than once, to check for consistency.

“Michelin chefs have obvious flair, are good at matching flavours and are able to produce to a high standard again and again.”

He admits that gaining or losing a coveted star can be the making of a business or lead to less interest.

“Chefs make a lot of their stars and hold great store by them,” he said. “But chefs who have lost a star can view the experience as a kick up the backside for letting standards slip and work towards regaining it.

“We are keen to find new restaurants and visit around 500 a year,” added Mr Bulmer.

Shaun Hill, chef proprietor of The Walnut Tree Inn at Llanddewi Skirrid, near Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, has held a Michelin star for more than 20 years.

He said: “I had a star at my last restaurant, Merchant House in Ludlow, for 11 years and held a star at Gidleigh Park in Devon for nine years.

“The Walnut Tree was awarded one last January.

“Michelin has a very high status. The same star system is used across the world so is an international shorthand.

“Michelin chefs are a talented bunch but so are plenty of others who do not aim for a star, who cook a simpler style of food particularly well.

“The inspectors tell you they consider the duty of a good chef is to look after their customers, rather than to seek awards.”

James Sommerin, from Caerleon, executive head chef at The Crown at Whitebrook, near Monmouth and the three-AA rosette Crown at Celtic Manor, has held a star since 2007.

“You never know when you’re going to be awarded a star,” he said.

“You must always be looking to go one step better than the day before and improving all the time.

“It involves a great deal of commitment, hard work, effort and the desire to be the very best that you can each day.

“For me it’s an unending journey for perfection”.

Bryan Webb, chef proprietor of Tyddyn Llan Restaurant With Rooms at Llandrillo, near Corwen, said: “You can’t make a Michelin star chef, just as you can’t cook simply to gain a star.”

And Shane Hughes, head chef at Ynyshir Hall, near Machynlleth, said: “Getting a star was a massive achievement for the hotel, the team and for me.”

Derek Bulmer will be in conversation with Bryan Webb on Tuesday, June 1 from 6.45pm; James Sommerin on Wednesday, June 2 from 6.30pm; Shaun Hill on Thursday, June 3, from 6.30pm and Shane Hughes, on Friday, June 4, from 7pm. All sessions are to be at the Culture Cymru stand.