Friday, 20 January 2017

Since early 2010 - I have been slowly building up my vintage sewing machines in my London ENDRIME
Denim studio. In fact i was the 1st person in London to have a working
denim sampling / factory in June 2012 - and even helped establish
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, in 2016 as I was a founding member.

Below is a video Stylesight / WGSN did about my vintage machine obsession few years back in my ENDRIME London studio.

I collect old sewing machines, mostly Union Special
machines from the 1930s and 1950 period. Most people think buying an old
looking fabric is most of the work, but to really really understand how old
production garments are made, you must know your machines

Its not to hard finding certain vintage sewing
machines now - especially through blogs and many videos online including
many I have made my self, educating many along the way with my own
journey - Its been a pure privilege becoming a well known specialist in
the subject, and I never get bored talking about vintage machines, and
there relationship with being a better designer :

Many denim heads and denim shops are often asking me - "how to get certain machines... prices..."
and most of the time, I point them towards a shop or a seller - but the
popularity of certain machines and the romanticised nature, the allure
of acquiring certain machines - the holy grail so to speak "to complete
the set" has never stopped, and more and more people / designers are
interested in the machines.

The 1st few vintage
machines I found way back in early 2010 were a few Union Special
machines, 39200 and a 43200g - I only got the machine heads - as i found
importing sewing machines heads, was just easier like that. I Imported
the machines in, then just handed the machines to a sewing machine shop (
and just hoped for the best )- They would take care of mounting the
machine on a available old table or in some cases a new table - I didn't
get to involved with the motor type - and was generally quite happy
with the result - as they did all the hard work for me. But the more
machines I acquired - the haphazard nature of different machines on
different types of tables, sizes, different heights - I found, I said to
my self - when things slowed down, I would spend some energy making each of the machines a uniform height - and if I could on the same type of table.

The
more time I spent finding machines, I also got very interested in the
cast iron tables legs too ( singer ones), and metal / cast iron thread /
spool holders, but really only the really really old / early examples -
did you know, the very early 1920's Union specials thread holders had
curved tops ? - which look just amazing ! and so much more elegant - and
just completed the machines overall appeal - slowly i decided I just
could not put such a old beautiful machine with a horrible - plastic
thread holder, and modern table anymore.

I have no
problem with modern tables with old machines on top - but I just started
looking for the right types of legs which might best fit my vintage
machines - and it started like that.

Above
( Left ) is a modern table ( which looks really nice ) next to a old
table ( Right ), with a union special 39200 overlocker - with a vintage
thread holder - modern waste shoot and servo silent motor - it was a fun
project.

Im not alone in this obsession, but for
the last few years I have been spending the same amount of time and
energy, hunting down as much as I could with a mixture of old and new
accessories to compliment my machines.

Check out our many machine friends, who all have this same bug as me - but by far - Ben Viapiana
has inspired many of us and taken it to another level with his old
Bangkok setup, and soon to be newly established Toronto, Canada, set up :

Ive made it my mission last few years to fit as many machines in to my ENDRIME
studio - so its meant cutting down table sizes, finding smaller tables
legs etc.. but most importantly using modern silent servo motors...

Having
now mounted well over 10 machines my self ( I have well over 20 vintage
machines now) - I thought it would be nice to share a run down of what
things you need, if you gonna mount a machine on a table your self with
out the help of a sewing machine mechanic.

Its really not hard, your confident with a drill, you should be okay - but it can take time, buying all the things you need -

Tools you might need:

A good Saw or Power Saw

Screw drivers

Power drill

Heres what you need to consider to buy ( apart from the vintage machine):

Chain and S hooks for secondary foot pedal ( often used for raising the foot ).

Leather belt - for machine to motor and hooks

There's been a slow trend amongst many of my machine friends - a kind of unspoken rule - but all of us are doing it - "old machine table legs and cast iron thread / spool stands" - we all thrive for it.

For me, I
have a section of modern machines and vintage ones - I think its way
cooler you try and find old machine legs for these older machines. Its
easy finding old Singer legs - There are soooooo many on eBay - most
have been converted to beautiful garden tables like below...

Some
are missing parts, like foot pedals or foot plate. ( as above ) but you
can be adventurous, and stick 2 machines on 1 table - thats what I
thought when i saw the one above.

When I was traveling
round Asia, I found some genius modern tables - Below is a test table in
a sewing machine shop - you can have 3 machines hook up to it in 1 go,
plus its on wheels - just amazing... if only it came in black !

But, I made it my mission to try and repurpose, old singer legs - and try and have my machines looking uniform in my studio...

1st
of all, it comes down to the type of sewing machine you gonna put on a
old table - in most cases you need 2 foot pedals - and most old machines
need a second pedal for the foot to be raised. Most Singer Treadle type
legs - like below, only have 1 foot pedal...

So
in most cases the above legs ( treadle type ) might not be suitable for
a machine which need 2 pedals- The best bet is one of these below : (I
came this this conclusion independently - but after seeing a few friends
in japan who also have a vintage machine problem like me, it made sense
to carry on my hunt) so again the best type of tables you need to hunt
down are:

A: Is the most sort after machine legs - hands down...
they are super rare - These are perfect cast iron Singer machine legs
as they are not so wide, but just the right width, they have extra space
to move about in for your legs. The master foot pedal you can place
anywhere you desire ( as it blots on ), and most importantly you can add
- additional secondary foot pedals as theres a foot plate in place.
These tables are strong and Heavy - about 15-18kg - There are a few
different versions around, as Singer did do different heights on them,
and even licensed the tables out to other companys- but all the tables
look the same - most important thing is it must have foot plate - so you
can add more foot pedals - if you see one, bag it with out delay.

B:
This is another rare table - As it includes the second foot pedal in
the table - ( super cool ) These tables are tiny - but cool if you
manage to fit a motor, and a pitman rod around an already busy metal
frame. Ive done a few conversations which this tiny table - works well.

It
comes down to this, modern table legs vs vintage - now, I would pick
vintage always - yes they might be heavier - and some cases smaller -
but they look way cooler -

Below is out Buddy redcloud423 - He has been also hunting down the same table legs like me... and has done a fabulous job - refurbishing old machines.

Other great friends - like mgbakerco - have used super mini tables so they can fit as many machines in there studio - fantastic job !

Even our buddy oldtimeglory
has the right idea - finding the rarest of rarest of singer tables, and
putting his singer waistband machine on it - Great job dude !

Even our buddy ooe yofukuten have got the same idea as us, and are using a old singer table for there union special 43200g

Notable mentions oldblueco - with there impressive set up, using a mixture of vintage and modern tables.

2. Wood for table top and Bolts for wood

Generally - picking out the right wood surface is a personal thing - My personal favourite has to be Ben Viapiana
again - not only did he, manage to fit all this machines in a small
converted container, he did a beautiful job on every single machine. He
made sure each of this table legs were the same, and made custom wood
tops for each machine - a real inspiration ! -

Just as impressive is our buddy Navid Dastanai / billthebutchr
- who has been fearless on his custom machine table builds - in recent
cases, he has been putting 2 machines on a single table, with fantastic
results.

Our buddy oldblackmachines - has the right idea - esp with the wood he has picked - and again - cut down to a small size for his set up - perfect !

Below
is a example I have been doing - I have found 6 singer legs the past 2
months, so I have been making table tops for them all - so they are all
the same. All i have to is stain / varnish them, then attach and aline
vintage machine, and motor, and foot pedals... ( admit-tingly my wooden
tops could be little more thicker - but these will do the job nicely
once finished, as most of the vintage machines I have been buying will
just sit / rest on top ) I am quite happy with the results so far.

3. Thread / Cone / spool stand -

Most
industrial sewing machines come with boring thread stands like above -
which do one thing right - they keep out of the way when sewing - Modern
factory safety regulations mean, most thread stands have the power lead
coming out of them also... ( so keeping the wires away from the floor )
which is also cool - but these Vintage machines with these types of
thread holders - sometimes look crap and often mess up the look.

Depending on the machine your installing - you will need 2 - 6 thread stands -
I
spend a great deal of time hunting down these stands - and they are
very hard to come by now - most were scrapped for metal during the WWII
are after - but every now and then, you hit the jack pot. These often
sell for over for $200 USD each - and more the holders more expensive
the stand.

There
is something very elegant and stunning about vintage thread stands
above - if you come across one of theses- make sure to pick it up ! When
I was last in Bangkok, me and my friend Ben Viapiana
found a vintage sewing machine shop with had loads of them, but the guy
was not willing to sell to us at the time - sad - but its good to know,
if you look hard enough- you can still find them...

4. Foot pedals - most machines need 2

okay - you might be thinking, why go to all the trouble, hunting down a vintage table - when i can just buy this:

6
/ 7 years ago i would have said - yeah - just buy a new table - job
done... This Juki table comes with 2 foot pedels already for you... but
your machine will look way better in a older table set up. and with cool
cast iron foot pedals...

There are many different
types of vintage machines tables / legs - some you can use very easily,
but some you might have to be inventive - The main thing you need to
consider is to have a foot plate - so you can attach foot pedals -
below is a great example Ben Viapiana found
in Canada - its a Singer machine, thats been transplanted to custom
table frame, with the strangest ( but brilliant ) foot pedal.

Of course - there are many types of foot pedals you can attach on a sewing machine table - some really special ones -

As
mentioned most old machines need a second foot pedal, so having the
space, so your free to customise to have more pedals is important -
again if you find a foot pedal you like - just buy it, as they are
getting harder to come by.

Most
denim designers / sewing specialist who set up machines - might not
agree to this, but I personally prefer if you use a LED light - and one
that does not need its own power supply. But takes power from the motor
instead- This LED light is so easy to install - and they have a super
strong magnet - so you can position the light in any direction you like
on the machine and it also comes with a bendable neck... get one or a
few - loads on ebay - just make sure its the one with the wires loose - and not with a plug.

6. Pitman rod

This
rod connects the motor to the foot pedal. Most sewing machine motors
come with Pitman Rod - but some don't - play it safe and get one extra -
they also come in handy - esp when your adapting old machine legs - as
you some times have to be adventurous when you using table not meant for
your machine.

7. Castor wheels

Machines
are heavy - once you put a 15-20kg machine head on a 15-20kg cast iron
table, with 5-8kg motor its super heavy, then there is foot pedals,
thread stands... its endless - Most would not think about putting wheels
on their machines - but I like to have them free and easy to move about
- This is mainly as I like to change the layout for the studio time to
time - ( change the order of the machines im using etc...) plus i always
knew one day i would move into a bigger space so I am thinking ahead.

The
above image, I found the rarest of rare - singer table, the particular
table I think is best. I found it easier attaching castor wheels to
wood before ( which i will paint black later ) - then attached it to the
table - I have 9 of these tables now - so all will be the same height
once finished.

If you notice, even our buddy kamo1979
- has attached castor wheels to his vintage machine set up - using a
similar 1940's Singer cast iron frame - and he has cut / chopped his
wooden top of the table down - so used the minimal amount, smart dude.

8. Silent Servo Motor

One
of the 1st memory's I have as a child, is play under my mums sewing
machine, and hearing the "hum" sound from her Brother Clutch lock stitch
machine - This was about 1984 - 1985ish

Now, sewing
machine motors have become lighter and cheaper to make - Most Industrial
machines will still come with Clutch motors - and often weigh as much
as the machine. You can request loads of extras now, (like buying a car)
- things like; thread cutters, and needle positions aids can be added
for very little extra. but I would stick to just a plan Servo for now.
The only down side is most Servo motors are like computers - so some
reading might be needed if you have to change the direction of the motor
for example - but these are simple fixes.

When i
started buying vintage machines - i was advised very early to use Servo
motors only - I have been told there alot more safer to use and better
for the vintage machine - as they use less pressure - so will not wear
out your already antique machine, not 100% sure if thats true, but makes
sense.

Silent Servo motors are universal, and perfect for most industrial sewing machines,
being single phase with a 3 pin plug, it is suitable for both home use
and industrial use. Their speed is adjustable, and energy saving
- there no "hum" on this motor - These motors are perfect for straight stitch machines where
adjusting speed is priority, and walking foot machines.

9. Chain and S hooks for secondary foot pedal ( often used for raising the foot )

It
would be surprising the amount of time, ive spent looking for the right
chain and size of S hooks - but once you find the right one, buy many -
so its looks consistent with your many machines. You will often need
these for the secondary foot pedal -

10. Leather belt - for machine to motor

Most
modern industrial sewing machines, when you buy the machine, it comes
with a motor, which also comes with a belt - Nice and easy - a package
deal - These belts are about 3/8" across - and come in various sizes -
handy... see below.

But...
old 1930s singers, 1930s-40s union special machines etc..- there belt
sizes ( or widths) are 3/16" or 5/16" - slightly thinner then modern
3/8" thickness - Also there more variables that effect the size of belt
you need; you might get a modern motor - or your wood for the table top,
you have used might be super thick, or your motor might be not directly
under the machine, so you might need a longer belt. Getting a belt in
your size might not be possible, as they come in set sizes, you might
have to order it - as waste time - The solution is easy - buy some old
singer treadle belt cord - see below:

I
prefer to just buy the old leather treadle belts - and cut them down to
size - Ive come a cross 2 different types of belt widths - 3/16" ( 5mm )
and 5/16" ( 8mm ) - make sure to get the hooks as well -

Another good example - why it might be best to just buy on the roll - you might raise your machine higher - take fielddenim below - he has raised his union special waistband machine - situations like this - having you own custom belt size helps.

On conclusion

I hope this 101 guide will help some one, who wants to attempt to put a sewing machine on a table -

You
might not 100% agree with some of my points, mixing old with new - But i
really do believe recycling old tables - and re-purposing them to be
machines again is only a good thing, plus it adds value to your already
expensive purchase - But theres fun about finding a table and old
machine parts - which in most cases - were heading for scrap metal - and
making use of them again.

Heres our buddy paleodenim
- who had adapted his button / kick press on a cast iron sewing machine
stand, and added his coller turn to boot - just superb.

Friday, 28 February 2014

Here at ENDRIME we are busy finishing our selling period of our AW14 collection - Busy finishing designing SS15, and just about to update ENDRIME Website with SS14 - NON stop here -
Check out our SS14 Lookbook below - Most styles will be available on ENDRIME.COM in early March 2014

I run a few other blogs - one of the more popular blogs is shitdenim.com
Its now coming up to the 2nd Anniversary of this blog, which has many followers, and quite well respected in the denim Industry.

I was recently asked a question a few weeks back:
"Can you explain the reasoning for naming your blog this?"

Its quite funny, I've never written down the concept behide it, I do tell it to a few people who ask, but i thought it would be nice to share.
here my answer:

"I've been a denim designer for 12/13 years now. About 2 years ago near the final months while i was working at DKNY JEANS. i was discussing with a Colleague, the topic of the amount of research we had collected over 3 years in the role. Most designers don't like to show where they get there ideas from, or where they get Influenced.
I'm the complete opposite. I like to share everything and show the process. And educate.
That day i righted clicked a folder i had which i collected images and videos from denim factorys and ref samples. It was well over 40,000 images. And few hundred videos- most of these were images i had used for inspiration for presentations across 6 seasons - and would not be using anytime soon. (just 3 years worth).
I joked that most designers would just put them on a hard drive and forget about them. Then I joked I should upload all the 'shit denim' I was no longer using. Kinda release really. I believe - its important to let go of ideas, ( esp ones I'm not using) this way it leaves more room for me to think... Plus I know it could help other denim designers. That day, I bought www.shitdenim.com then got the tumblr / twitter name. By the evening I had uploaded about 200 pictures on shitdenim.com 90% were my own.
With in 2 weeks I had over 100,000 pages views, highsnobiety had featured me as top 5 tumblrs... Not bad for few hours work. It was funny. As now there are many denim blog sites...
My rule was to always credit if it was not my image, and For the last few years I just use my Original Content and try not to blog others people stuff too much. There's still loads I want to upload ESP from my many Japan trips round kojima etc.. But I really like to show as many denim videos as possible as i wanted it to become a denim Resource Destination... "

Wednesday, 6 March 2013

Since coming back to London in June 2012, and setting up my Denim workshop in East London, things have been non stop... I went on a Massive Denim Pilgrimage in September 2012- starting in China, and ending up in Kojima Japan. I hope to post up details on my trip, in Mohsin Special Blog in coming months. ( i took over 5000 pictures and 200 videos) High lights were visiting KAPITAL, JOHNBULL and factories and meeting the Shiotoni brothers of Japan.. (WAREHOUSE)Todays post, is well over due. For the past 9 months, I have been hard at work Developing my own brand: ENDRIME.

Ergonomic tailoring and pattern cutting and modern clean
construction’s lay at the heart of ENDRIME. Constant battle / balance of clean
and complicated design. I always enjoyed complicated pattern cutting. I hate copying other
brands – and it’s a waste of talent. True design is moving things forward. There are way too many Levi's Clone brands, all doing the same thing...

My aim was to design a concept collection which would be
made exploring modern and lost constructions methods and combining research in
uncharted areas in Denim Design. I dislike cheap methods of production esp
using overlocking machines. There are better / clever ways to finish a garment,
since the 1950s. I also believe that the inside of the garment is just as important
as the outside.

Im excited to see how ENDRIME grows in the coming years ahead. Please enjoy the Preview AW13 Look book...

Friday, 29 June 2012

Designing Jeans, is something I've been lucky to enjoy these past 10 years, but theres a detail that seems to be bring joy to a small minority ( including me) and its a inner battle within the denim community and its regarding flys Construction methods.

Most designers will have not probably notice or even seen a "Continuous Fly" before, and for sure some would even say: "whats the point?"

The Continuous Fly was invented by David Neustadter and he was able to patent his design on 30th October, 1877. But its widely believed that this detail was used by Neustadter Brothers as early as 1875 on their 1st work pant - The Neustadter Brothers in San Francisco manufactured the "Boss of the Road" overalls as early as late 1850's.

Above: David Neustadter's Patent for is Continuous Fly

Its amazing as Neustadter's Patent clearly outlines his reason for inventing the detail, and its a joy to read even today:

"My invention relates to a certain improvement in overalls and pantaloons, having for its object to STRENGTHEN the garment at the point where the inner seams meet, where the greatest strain is received, and at the same time to SIMPLIFY the construction and cost of manufacture. To this end my invention consists in making the "fly" or facing of the sides of the front of the garment in one continuous strip or piece..."

Above: Boss of the Road Patch "with patented Continuous fly" -

Credit to: Henry Wong of http://denimnews.blogspot.com

It seems strange to me, a detail which clearly STRENGTHEN's and SIMPLIFY'sis missing from modern denim of today. But to be honest its no surprise. Most good functional details get watered down in time, and lost. As a manufacturer of Denim myself, i can see to speed up production it was left out, but this detail should have remained in my books.

For me a very small number of Denim and Fashion brands uses this detail, they are clearly on the VERY top of their game and are (in my books), True Denim / workwear Specialist -

The Allure of this detail, also makes its all nice a neat and clean on the inside. Esp if you don't want horrible over locking. Its defiantly a standard. Ive also seen Continuous Fly on many modern military garments to date, which is nice to see ! esp as they seem to think its still a good standard detail to use even to this day.

Below is another example of a Continuous Fly, this time on a vintage Chino sample from my Archive.

Lots of denim companys say there Premium, but i say 'pah' to the word Premium. It seems easy now to get selvage, and selvage from good suppliers, even have concealed rivets, even hemmed on Union Specials, but how many so called Premium Jeans Companies have Continuous Fly's... ?

Monday, 12 March 2012

The love affair with chain stitching is somewhat eclipsed if you have one of these. The Singer 114w103 is the first chainstitch machine Singer made, starting around 1911. It was 1st used in a treadle table and often called a “Cornely Type”, modeled after Cornely of France’s design that went into production in 1865.

These single needle chain-stitch machines were used to stitch names onto garments, workshirts, handkerchiefs etc... Now most embroideries are done on modern computerised machines, but there something quite amazing using the freehand crank below the machine, while directing your embroidery above, and controlling the speed with your feet.

Roy Slaper of "ROY" has one of these machines, which he, by hand chain stitches the shop / or often his own name in the jean on the pocket bag. check out a video of him using this amazing machine on his selvage duck pants for Self Edge...

Finding one has been tricky, they sometimes pop up on ebay, and sell for 300-500USD but theres a guy in japan who re-conditions them, stripes them down, re paints them... and even makes custom boxes for them, ( so you can have the hand crank on top of the main table) and so they can fit on any modern table, with out much modification.. I personally like them with the paint coming off. This will be the next machine i invest in for sure.