I roughed in a little cabinet and mounted my heater on it just to see how I liked it. The open side will face the end of the horseshoe bench that is yet to be fabricated and installed. Because there will not be enough room between the cabinet and the bench for drawers to pull out or for a door to swing open, I will likely rig up a sliding door on it.

Thanks for the suggestion, David. I fished out a couple of shelf fronts from the pile of stuff I pulled out of Hal in the deconstruction phase. They are 3/4"x3/4" mahogany sticks that have a 3/16" routed channel along the length of one side. I'm thinking of rigging one at the top and one at the bottom of the cabinet opening and using a 3/16" plywood rectangle for the face of the sliding door (which will slide in the channels) with a piece of 1"x2" mahogany (also salvaged from the pile) along one side of the length of the plywood door with a pull knob or handle of some sort about a third of the way down. As I realize my descriptions aren't exactly crystal clear, so I'll just post a picture of the finished product if it comes to fruition.

Made a little progress on the heater cabinet. The sliding door doesn't slide as smoothly as I would like, but that will just take some tinkering around with to make better. Also got the stove set in place in its frame. After taking the shot of the stove, I cut and glued in the cross piece that goes below the stove. I'm re-purposing a lot of the mahogany I took out elsewhere (from old gaucho, old shelf above bed, etc.) and using it to trim around the birch plywood I'm using for the cabinets. I'm going to replace the mahogany veneer cabinet doors with birch plywood, on which I'm applying clear satin polyurethane, like that on the heater cabinet. I love the contrast of the birch and the mahogany trim. The

two woods compliment each other. Using aluminum angle for the heater cabinet edges hides the seam well carries through an aluminum touch. I may have hit upon a theme.

The black water tank arrived on our front porch the other day. So yesterday I taped together some pieces of cardboard, made a template, cut holes in the floor for the vent and inlet and set the tank in place. I made sure to leave enough room around the perimeter of the tank to have sufficient room to install supports or a fabricated pan with a lip that can be screwed or bolted to the sub-floor, such as the one that came with the trailer, but had corroded/rusted away. I'd obviously use something other than the sheet metal they used on that one, but then who knows how far that one got in its 50 year life span before the rot set in.

While lying under the trailer today contemplating how to mount the black tank, I thought that if the top edges of the tank had lips I could just bolt the thing to the sub-floor. In thinking how to add lips, I called Regal Plastics to see if and what kind of high-strength plastic angle stock could be fastened by epoxy or high-strength adhesive. I'm going to go by there tomorrow to talk to someone about the feasibility of my idea. Anyone want to tell me not to bother even thinking about this?

Someone else on this forum screwed the original black tank to the plywood with 30+ screws. I've searched for the thread but cannot find it. Unless you find a way to weld some plastic angle onto your tank, this won't help you.

On my '67, the galvanized pan around the tank was supported by two angle steel cross-pieces that were bolted to the frame. I've read that some pans were bolted through the floor for support instead.

Some folks like me hang waste water tanks with angle iron. I've also used aluminum pans bolted to the frame cross members. Where there is a will, there is a way.

The original 66 Trade Wind black tank did have a flange around the lid. Touring Dan used that flange to screw the tank to the subfloor, a good idea. I believe that tank was a thermoformed ABS tank in two pieces where the lid was then welded to the formed bottom of the tank. The lid was bigger than the tank.
Here is a photo of my old Trade Wind black tank.

Dale - I had an HVAC shop cut strips of metal. I canít recall the gauge (18?). It was hefty but still could be bent with pliers. Also, I forgot to mention that later I added sheets of thin plywood underlayment, the dimensions of the tank, that were sandwiched between the metal strips and the tanks.

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