Since I swapped my European collection against an US-style one, I carried out a number of alterations and which qualify as kit-bashing. Therefore, I decided to group them here. I start with an overview of 2014 works.

The first 2015 project - Frankenstein M* streamliner coach: Leftovers from at least two deceased coaches combined with various spare parts (as coupler mechanism and springs), silver spray-painting of formerly black trucks and a pragmatic solution for a front vestibule (spray-painted thick cardboard) which (a) looks acceptable when close-coupled to another coach in front and (b) works even on R1 curves.

What can a man do with this (decoder/pick-up shoe, M* coupler)?For a start, install one of the couplers. Yes, I know, but I have mainly US tinplate freight cars with M* couplers at the bogies.Reminds me that I still have to mount the missing front and rear railings.

Tight space: The decoder sits now under the cab in the space between cab roof and glass insert.(Re-)cabling: All black cables go on one side now, connected to the black decoder exit cable. Orange and grey decoder exit cables soldered to either side of motor feeder plates (which - formerly connected to the "original" black cables - are now isolated), respectively. The single lightbulb remains in the middle, connected to both yellow and white decoder exit cables. Engine and light functions were tested in a "dry run" on a programming track.Finally, the red cable goes to the "third rail" pick-up shoe. The latter is fixed with hot glue under one of the trucks. The pick-up shoe will be subject of the next post.

And now the announced "third rail" pick-up shoe installation report.I had to shave off a lot of plastic under one truck - until the cog wheels were visible - to create enough space to allow the loco to glide over turnouts, with the curved turnout being the most challenging one. Actually, I had to shave off more material after taking the photo.Here is the final view after fixing the pick-up shoe with hot glue. There is enough space in the middle of the truck to safely lead the feeder cable up to the decoder inside the housing.

Another experiment that stalls for the time being. The idea is to have a Southern Pacific F7 ABBA consist in Black Widow paint scheme, made up of Athearn shells mounted on Maerklin F7 undercarriages. First, I installed window glazing on all Athearn shells (transparent one-size-fits-all scotch tape did the job). Then came the metal job: As the Athearn shells are slightly shorter than the Maerklin ones, the Maerklin undercarriages need to be sawed off to accomodate the Athearn shells. I started with the two F7B units. The Athearn shells fit well, but the Maerklin trucks do not move freely due to the position of the Athearn shell rear ladders. Thus, I pause until I found a solution before I assault the more precious motorized Maerklin F7A undercarriages. I post pictures of the F7A shells sitting on Tyco undercarriages with silver trucks and the F7B shells with prototypical black trucks mounted on Maerklin undercarriages . Eventually, all trucks are supposed to be black.

I got away without extra ballast due to the weight of the full metal trucks. One truck per cannibalized Tyco loco had a cable connection and weird drum like axles, respectively. Only those trucks could be disassembled to receive pizza cutter type DC wheel sets (M* wheel sets did not fit). The second truck remained unaltered, respectively. That did the trick. Still, this is a hobby version which does not match true M* equipment driving performance.

Those D&RGW B units (and caboose) came out perfectly. What did you use to mask the lines while painting? I have seen some small masking tape for modeling. Your lines look so clean, I was wondering if you had used something like that?

Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)Posts: 12,294Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square

Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek

And now the announced "third rail" pick-up shoe installation report.I had to shave off a lot of plastic under one truck - until the cog wheels were visible - to create enough space to allow the loco to glide over turnouts, with the curved turnout being the most challenging one. Actually, I had to shave off more material after taking the photo.Here is the final view after fixing the pick-up shoe with hot glue. There is enough space in the middle of the truck to safely lead the feeder cable up to the decoder inside the housing.

AK, I know its a bit late to respond to your conversion but my suggestion may help you in future. instead of filing and shaving off the plastic part I have added a electrical coupling and than used a carboose or anything similar to add the slider (elelectrical as well) but this means the loco is no longer travelling on its own and this is of course for 2 rail locos which can't be converted to 3 rail

... I have added a electrical coupling and than used a carboose or anything similar to add the slider (elelectrical as well) but this means the loco is no longer travelling on its own ...

Thanks John,I might even follow this advice, as rolling over turnouts/switches/points (especially curved ones) is a challenge, because the pick-up shoe is lifting the loco a little bit. And as a busy shunter-gatherer, the loco should never move without a car.:o)

Also not depicted: The distance between the wheel flanges on the front axle and the trailing axle have been reduced by pushing them gently together. I did this with two finger without dismantling anything. Before this intervention, the loco tended to derail when following the inner path of the R1 curved turnouts when "splitting the frogs". Now she is hovering over all C-track sections like a goddess.

Oh yes, where are my manners? Credits for alerting me about the opportunity to buy this loco go to BrandonVA. He informed also about the potential Maerklin-compatibility and good running characteristics.

Oh yes, where are my manners? Credits for alerting me about the opportunity to buy this loco go to BrandonVA. He informed also about the potential Maerklin-compatibility and good running characteristics.

Recommendation, perhaps...but the guts and glory all go to the intrepid ATSF fan. I wonder if there are any additional conversions in the works?

There is something in the works. We are building an external power feeding device for converted former H0 scale 2-rail freight locos which do not offer enough space for installing a “center rail” pick-up shoe (converted passenger loco to be fed by coach equipped with Maerklin 73405 power feeder instead).

The works - (1) Build a well.(2) Make shoe plate separately for easy adjustment when placing it in the center (see image #4 below). Hole is for later maintenance access to the screw holding the truck (shoe can be lifted after removing the two tiny screws). (3) Truck and ring washer in place. White base plate fits nicely around raised round "thread housing". Subsequently the truck is attached with the existing screw (not pictured).(4) Feeder cable exits through opening in the well. Shoe plate glued down after final adjustment of central position.Ready to roll.

I experimented with other US tin plate freight cars. Best combination offers one with screw-mounted trucks and a long coupler neck to avoid contact between coupler and pick-up shoe, i.e. a flat car is the only candidate. Cabooses have also long coupler necks, but the truck held by a retaining ring do not offer enough space for even the thinnest styrene sheet. Gondolas have screw-mounted trucks, but short coupler necks. Box and tank cars have retaining ring-fixed trucks and short coupler necks.

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