West Gully as of sunday was the thinnest I've seen it, but also the earliest I've been there so.... For sure climbable if you get there EARLY. There is some very hollow ice on a lot of the route and we bailed at the bulge because the ice was poor and it was running water. There is some good ice for anchors/v-threads however....

Lincoln is super fat as of yesterday, but in general it's very low quality ice. Dinner plates flying and über sketch gear placements. But it's not even November yet,so this is to be expected.

Wow, really, must have gotten pretty cold up there Sunday night. During the day on Sun, the ice condition was excellent. The pillars would have been tough to get good pro on due to some chopping out and "normal" featuring etc, but not brittle at all compared to normal.

Here's another good one to get on in the Summit area. The Mini Cristo on the south side of Quandary is M2-M3 300-450FT and only a 20 minute approach. It would be an ideal day to climb this in the morning and then head on over to Lincoln Falls for a few laps. Ya, the ice up high and in the shade is already starting to sublimate and go to crap.

Hello, thought I would let folks know that we have an early season report/pics on Ice Conditions down here in the San Juan's/Ouray/Silverton area: mtnguide.net/early-snow-fat-ea...

We will be getting our full conditions report page up soon and updated regularly - I will get the link to that as soon as we get it up and running. Probably will get out again early next week. So far, everything is trending in the right direction for a big year.

On Friday Kevin Cooper and I sent the Window Pain on the Diamond! So psyched! Just getting to the base is a great climb. Total of 7 pitches of stellar climbing. Get it soon before it blows away! More photos here: topherdonahue.com/blog/2013/10...