A Hamburger Today

A Sandwich a Day: The Fried Chicken at Son of a Gun in Los Angeles

There is a place in Oakland, California, called Bakesale Betty, and if you have ever tried their fried chicken sandwich, you will measure every fried chicken thereafter by that benchmark. The slaw is dressed in oil and vinegar, not mayonnaise. The chicken is dipped in buttermilk, then dredged in seasoned flour. One bite leads to the next, and before you know it, you've eaten the entire thing. It doesn't matter whether you consider yourself a fried chicken aficionado-no one is exempt from the lure of that sandwich.

The fried chicken sandwich ($11.00) at Son of a Gun in Los Angeles comes close to the Bakesale Betty experience. Unlike the other small plates on the menu, the fried chicken sandwich comes towering on the plate, a Jenga-like construction of its various components. The chicken is, for the most part, juicy and tender. The breading gives way to an audible crunch when you bite into the meat, and the seasoning alone is worth savoring. There's no sign of soggy, crumbling breading here.

Next there are the bread and butter pickles, which are sweet with a slight tang. On top of that is the slaw with a heavy dollop of rooster aioli spread onto the shreds—aioli mixed with the ubiquitous sriracha sauce. The spice is subtle, lingering only long enough to keep you wanting another bite.

Overall, though, this is not a spicy sandwich; simply a delicious one. The only shortcoming may be the aioli, which to me is like gilding the lily. But I imagine most people find it a delicious addition to the sandwich.