Stalking the wild mushroom

February 12, 2003|By Annette Gooch, Universal Press Syndicate.

Edible wild mushrooms (varieties that grow only in forests or fields and are rarely cultivated successfully) are in great demand for their unparalleled aroma and flavor. Although they're expensive, it takes only a few to provide a taste of luxury.

One of the most sought-after wild mushrooms in the United States and Europe is the chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius). This variety has a flared rather than rounded cap and is most often yellowish-orange, but can be white, blue or black. Fragrant, with a delicate, nutty, sometimes fruity flavor, the chanterelle has a satisfying meaty texture. They can toughen during long cooking, according to "Food Lover's Companion."

Only experienced foragers who can reliably distinguish edible fungi from toxic lookalikes have any business gathering wild mushrooms. Meanwhile, the rest of us can safely stalk fresh chanterelles and other edible wild varieties in the aisles of produce and specialty markets, and through reputable online sources.

Success tips

Fresh chanterelles are most abundant in fall and early winter; dried chanterelles are available year-round.

When selecting chanterelles, choose ones that are fragrant, plump and spongy. Avoid those with broken or shriveled caps.

If fresh chanterelles aren't available, substitute fresh porcini mushrooms for this dish, or use cultivated (commercially grown) white or brown button mushrooms. The flavor won't be the same, but the dish will still be tasty.

Fettuccine with chanterelles

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Ideally, the pasta and sauce should be ready at the same time. But giving precise cooking times for this dish is impossible, because the timing varies according to the type of pasta used, whether half-and-half or cream is used, and the desired consistency of the sauce. As a rule, begin cooking fresh fettuccine (which cooks quickly) when the sauce has reduced by one-third. This rich, highly flavored dish should be served in small portions.

1/2 pound fresh chanterelles or other wild mushrooms

2 cups low-sodium chicken stock

1 tablespoon each: butter, olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallot or white portion of green onion

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 1/2 cups half-and-half or whipping cream

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1 pound fettuccine or other pasta, cooked, drained

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1. Wipe tops and undersides of mushrooms with dampened towel. Slice mushrooms vertically through caps and stems into 1/4-inch slices.

2. Heat broth and any mushroom trimmings in small saucepan to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high; cook until reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Strain out trimmings; discard trimming. Set broth aside.

3. Heat butter and oil in large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat almost to smoking point. Add mushrooms and shallot; cook, stirring, until mushrooms begin to render liquid. Add wine; cook over high heat until liquid is mostly evaporated, about 2-3 minutes. Add reduced broth and half-and-half; heat to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high; cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until mixture has reduced by one-half, about 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If a thicker sauce is desired, continue cooking until sauce reaches desired consistency. Add cooked pasta and parsley to skillet; toss lightly to coat evenly with sauce. Serve at once on warm plates.

Lightly cooked mushrooms, garlic and herbs finished with a small amount of cream complement roast beef, poultry or game. For a more economical dish, increase the proportion of cultivated mushrooms to wild ones, or use only cultivated mushrooms.

1 1/2 pounds fresh wild mushrooms

1 pound small cultivated button mushrooms

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

10 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons whipping cream

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup minced mixed herbs (parsley, basil, chives or oregano)

1. Clean mushrooms well with a mushroom brush or dampened paper towels; do not wash. Cut wild mushrooms into rough chunks about the size of the button mushrooms; leave button mushrooms whole.

2. Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add garlic; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Raise heat to high. Add mushrooms; toss to coat with butter. Saute quickly until mushrooms have softened, about 2 minutes. Add cream; cook until it is absorbed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add herbs. Remove from heat; transfer to a warm serving dish.