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Ahhhh warp stopped working!!! Won't run even when hitting the load button.

I checked the batteries. There's no visable damage to any of the leads on the board. The jumpers appear to be in the correct location, the battery clip appears to have good soldered connections.

Right now I think I need a quick schematic of the board wiring. What's the polarity of the two wires (white and red) running directly to the motor? If I follow it correctly red is positive and white is negative. Is this correct? I'm just trying to figure out if my board is fried or if something else is going out.

I'm supposed to be in my first tourny next week so I'm hoping to have it all up and running. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

Interesting. Running 9 volts directly to the motor correctly won't cause the motor to spin. If I reverse the polarity (positive to negative) the warp spins fine, and in the correct direction. Yeah I looked pretty close, didn't have a magnifying lens, but I didn't see any discoloration, solder issues, popped leads or even any ESD damage. Any thoughts or should I just replace the board?

Right now I figure I can just run power directly to the motor and install a few switches to get me through the tournament, but I'm kinda curious as to what happened. Thanks for the quick response by the way.

very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.

Originally posted by Havoc_online very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.

Yeah I'll do the switch thing for now. I'll pull the board out and bring it in to work. Get some better light, magnification, and some probes on there to see if I can figure out exactly what's puking on me. Thanks a lot for all the help man! Appreciate it!

help

Well I just got a used warp today. I got an awesome deal on it because the wires connecting the power source to the board had to be soldered. Fixed those. Now I turn it on and it will only spin when i hit the button. I tried adjusting the sensativity but that did nothing. hElp!

brand spankin' new warp feed

I'm just bought my first warp and I plan on using it this weekend. I have set it up on my old skool RT and I'm getting ready to set the sensitivity and dwell. I was reading an earlier post and I have a question. Am I supposed to lube the friction wheels before I use the warp? By lubing the wheels I mean rubbing the faces of the friction disks with something like mag oil.

Question

Alright well i and instaling a Pro team warp feed onto my impulse. And i was tuning it and i had it set to the sensor part. So thats right correct? And then i was tunning it and i turned it all the way down to where the motor would just barely not spin(like all the way clockwise). and i would shoot and it still wouldnt spin. Whats wrong?

I got a problem with my warp. Don't know the cause so I came to this thread. When I use "wet shells" System X balls, my warp flies but when I use "dry shells" PMI prems it has a hard time loading. What can I do to fix this? Oh by the way they are the same bore. So my question is What's the Dealio? My setup is like this Rico to warp, warp goes to bottom of h/r p/f on my minimag. I've included a pic for reference sakes. Oh and yes they are very nice sheets

BUY great quality gear, parts from RogueFactor, SoCal PRIDE!!feedbackRemember if it doesn't say RPG... it's not the real deal and probably voids the warranty

you can use the oil for your mag and VERY lightly rub some onto the wheels to lubricate them. but in my case shooting a case of the "wet shells" through my warp worked well and have had no probs with Evil paint yet.

Warp breaking balls!

Havoc,

I have an opportunity to buy a slightly used Warp (less than 6 hours of field time)for a great price, which a friend of mine bought new but doesn't like because he was breaking paint in the breach. He was using it on a new classic automag with a level 10 and an all american 2 pc barrel. We were shooting winter paint at CPX and it was about 35 degrees outside. When I looked at it I noticed that he had not lubed the discs and that he had the dwell jumpers all in the non functional positions. When he removed the Warp he didn't break any additional balls so it seems that the rest of his setup is okay. What do you think could be the issues? I plan to install this on my new RTPRO is there anything special I need to know concerning the install. How many dwell jumpers should I be using?

One more question

Havoc,

Things are looking pretty good thanks for your input. I did notice that when I slipped the hose fitting on the end of my powerfeed that it is kind of loose. It takes little pressure to slide it on. Is this normal? It seems like it wouldn't be very durable in the field. Do you have any suggestions on how to snug up the fit?

I've got a really basic question. I've got two guns that I'm picking up warp feeds for, for my team. Mine is an RT pf hopper left and the other is a verticle feed minimag. Will I need to pick up the Pro Team 90* for each of these or will everything I need come from AGD? Is there anything else that I would need to pick up? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dont hold me to this but it looks like you might have to make your own custom adapter for the 90* adapter to fit on the body. something like some sort of tubing just long enough to stick out of the vertical feed and for the 90* adapter to hold on to