Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Review : My Experience

Although I wouldn’t call myself an expert, I finally feel comfortable giving my reviews and a few basics I’ve learned along the way while painting with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint®.

I’ve been painting furniture with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint for a little over 6 months now and fell in love with it right from the beginning. Last summer I was browsing around some blogs and kept seeing people painting furniture. And they were using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I hadn’t even heard of this paint before, but the more I read about it, the more I wanted to try it out. I had a semi-successful experiment with homemade chalk paint, but I just couldn’t get this “miracle paint” out of my mind and just knew I had to try it.

Over the last several months I’ve tried several colors of ASCP and have totally fallen in love with the paint. It’s so easy to use, has very little odor, and is super simple to clean up!

Have you been heard about ASCP, but haven’t wanted to take the plunge yet? Here are a couple things I’ve learned along the way that will hopefully help you decide to try it out:

1. Coverage

When I first started looking into ASCP, I kept hearing over and over and over that you hardly had to use any paint to get full coverage on whatever you were painting. This got me intrigued, but when I finally tried it out, I didn’t feel like I had the same results. While the paint is much thicker than latex, it does not always cover in one coat. Just like with any kind of paint, you’ll get better coverage when painting a piece a similar color or shade to whatever the piece is to begin with. The closer the colors, the better the coverage. For example, if you paint Old White over dark stained wood, you will need at least two coats, possibly even three coats to get full coverage. On the other hand, if you’re painting Old White over a light stained wood or even over a very light paint color, you may only need one coat. Now your desired level of coverage may differ depending on what look you’re going for, but I’ll talk about that another time.

I only had to use one coat of Duck Egg Blue on this piece since it was already painted a cream color. One coat covered perfectly for the look I was going for.

To buy an Annie Sloan paint brush or not. That’s the question. If you want to paint multiple pieces, I’d suggest trying out a small or medium sized Annie Sloan paintbrush. I swear they “hold” paint differently and just feel like they were made for the paint (obviously!). The brushes are so easy to paint with and can actually mildy change the look of the finished paint job when you’re giving the piece a more antique look. However, if you plan to only paint one or two pieces and not make this into a hobby or business, then by all means, use a regular old paintbrush. I used Purdy brushes (my fave non-Annie-Sloan paintbrushes) when I first started out. They worked just fine and do a great job. I still use Purdy brushes when I use ASCP when trying to get in tight corners and spaces.

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is insanely easy to use. There is very little prep included when using this paint. Before you start painting, you want to make sure your furniture piece is clean which can be acheived by wiping it down with a clean cloth. If the piece is stained wood and is quite dirty, you may want to use mineral spirits to give it a good cleaning. But that’s it. There’s no sanding or priming. If you want, you can even leave the hardware on and paint that, too, since ASCP will stick to metal, too! How cool is that?

Distressing ASCP is, you guessed it, super easy! 🙂 There are a few different ways to distress, but whatever way you choose, the paint comes off very easily. The paint was actually made to be distressed. In comparison, when I made my own homemade chalk paint and used it on the same piece with ASCP, the ASCP paint distressed easily and came off just how I wanted it to. Because the homemade chalk paint is made with latex paint, it doesn’t distress near as easily and I had to work harder to get a similar amount of distressing. I don’t know about you, but I want to do things as easily as possible, so I prefer to use ASCP for easy distressing.

Annie Sloan soft wax certainly has a learning curve attached to it, but it is definitely worth using. The wax actually soaks into the paint and becomes a part of it. It slightly deepens the paint color and gives the paint a hard, durable protective finish. I especially love how it gives the piece a slight sheen rather than a super glossy look. Like I said, there is a bit of a learning curve with the wax. It takes some practice to get the hang of using it and everyone seems to have their own way of applying it. I’ve tried lots of different techniques and am finally getting to a point that I’m comfortable with it. I was actually scared to use it in the beginning because it was so foreign to me to use a wax over paint, but the more you work with it, the more comfortable you’ll get with it. Also, I would recommend when you’re just starting out to always use clear wax first if you also want to use the dark wax, at least until you get used to it. The dark wax is VERY pigmented and will totally change the color of your paint if you use it without the clear wax on first. I know the wax may sound a little scary, but you just have to practice and you’ll find your comfort zone with it.

I hope I was able to answer some of your burning questions and get you a little more comfortable with the idea of trying out Annie Sloan Chalk Paint®.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or email me at thegoldensycamore {at} gmail {dot} com. (Please note – if you want a faster reply, please email me. I will try to get back to you within a few days. I do check the comments on this post, but am only able to reply about once a month.)

Let’s Connect

Comments

Have you ever used poly over it? I had a bad experience with water based poly on a kitchen table. I think I’m going to sand it down and put the ASCP back on it and just not worry about the poly. Your pieces look beautiful!

Thanks Jeanette! I have only used poly over it once and I didn’t really like it. Chalk paint is made to absorb the wax protectant and kind of bond with it. I don’t believe it’s able to do that with poly. Also, I just didn’t like the look/feel of it when it was finished. Just not what I prefer. I know poly is easier to apply, but I’m sticking with wax for now.

If I do not like the ASCP finish or color, can I re-apply another paint (such as a semi-gloss oil based paint). I ask the question because of the wax application with ASCP. We are going to use the charcoal over a French Provencial piece (semi-high gloss — maple in color).

Allison, one more thing — we will apply the dark wax over the charcoal in order to get the piece as dark (or black) as possible. Now, the first question was: can I re-do the piece in a semi-gloss oil based paint, if I am not thrilled with the ASCP color.

Nancy – You can repaint with a different kind of paint, but you should remove the wax first. I believe you can do that with mineral spirits. Once the wax is off, make sure to prime the piece, just to make sure the paint adheres correctly. Hope that helps!

Does anyone know if you can paint over chalk paint with regular paint? Part of my bedroom was paneled and I was trying to shorten the work time by using chalk paint (old white) on the paneling. This is going to take several coats to cover, and it will be too expensive to paint the rest of the room with it. Can I paint over the chalk paint coats to make all the walls one color?

Hi Rachel! The brand of paint doesn’t really matter, it’s more a question of the sheen or finish of the paint. If it’s matte or flat paint (like chalk paint is), then you should seal it with something – wax, poly, etc. If it’s a satin or semigloss type of finish, the paint should be just fine without a sealant.

I’m so excited about this post Allison! I have several pieces I’ve been hanging on to so I can try ASCP but just haven’t taken the leap yet. I need to get on it. Pinning this for a reference! Thank you!!!

I was so excited to find this post. I really want to attempt using Annie Sloane. I am hoping to redo my barstools which are black to something lighter but still neutral. Your tips are so helpful! Thank you for sharing.

Allison,
Thanks for the information on ASCP. I have not tried it yet, but I plan to use it today on a folding table that I am making a checkerboard print on top!! I can’t wait to try it! I enjoy looking at your blog and love to see the work that you have done!! Great job!! Thanks!

Thanks so much for this post! I am actually going to start painting a dresser and a bookshelf for my nursery this weekend with ASCP. I’m very excited to try it out! I’m painting mostly old white and some parts (the dresser drawers and the back of the bookshelf) Provence mixed with old white over black furniture. It’s good to know that I’ll have to use more than one coat to cover all the black. I may practice on a wood bread box first as I want the babies room to be as perfect as possible! Have a wonderful day!! ~ P.S. I’m visiting from The love of family and home link party.

Hi Allison…..thanks so much for your easy to read tips on ASCP. I too love it! Yes, the wax had it’s learning curves for sure…especially the dark…yikes. It scared the bajeebies outa me. Thought I was done painting forever when I saw what it did. Anywho….love the blue dresser w/mirror above….nice job! Also love your industrial side table I have been seeing linked up around. Love it.
Have you tried any of the other paints that are out there…CeCe’s? How about Webster’s powder….I just received some and anxious to get started using it. Have a good one!
Oh am your newest follower and already follow you other social medias.. :)…love your stuff.
Kelly

Thanks, Allison. For anyone trying ASCP for the first time, you’re tips are very helpful. I’m using it on all my projects now and love it. Still working through the waxing process – tend to use too much and it looks a bit cloudy at first. But that will come.

Allison – Thanks for such a great review. One question I have is how do you apply the wax? I recently purchased my 1st quart of ASCP with some clear wax. When I checked out, they were showing me the Wax Brush — is that something I should purchase? Or could I use something else instead?
Thanks!

So glad you enjoyed my review, Lora. I have tried regular chip brushes, old paint brushes, rags, and an actual wax brush and have found that I like the wax brush the best. I feel like it applies and works in the wax better than any other brush/rag. Of course, that’s personal preference, but it’s definitely what I’d recommend. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to email me. I’m more than willing to help!

Yes! It definitely holds up well! We painted our kitchen cabinets about 6 months ago and haven’t noticed any wear. We love the finish and it is so easy to clean up. If we get any food or grease on the cabinets, we just wipe with a wet rag and it takes it right off! Definitely use the wax or else the grease will soak into the paint and leave spots. The wax is the protective finish. Hope that helps!
Allison

Yes, Jenny, I have used it on laminate. Laminate is not my favorite product to begin with, but you can paint it with ASCP. If you do paint laminate, you don’t need to sand it, but I would recommend going for a more modern look when you paint (not antique/distressed). I would paint it with full coverage and would not try to sand or distress it when you’re done. If you sand/distress it, it might look funny because real wood won’t be showing through underneath. Hope that helps!
Allison

Allison,
I have been itching to try ASCP, on my kitchen cabinets, for quite some time. The only thing holding me back is that they don’t offer the color I want (a federal/navy blue). The idea of mixing colors is scary! Do you have any experience or advice for mixing the perfect color, in the quantity you need?
Thanks!
Lisa

I imagine the colour you are after is somewhere between Aubusson Blue and Napoleonic Blue. Try mixing with your fingers first – Dip in one colour and then put it on a tray use another finger to dip into the other colour and put it on a tray. Then add a little bit of one colour to the other and test on a piece of paper. What does it look like the right colour? If not try again with a different mix. Once you know the mix – is it half and half or mainly Aubusson with just a tiny bit of Napoleonic then go on to making a large amount. You need to know how much paint you will need for your cabinets. Ask your local stockists this. Then get a bucket and add the right ratio of paint and stir. Test to see if its right . pAINT
I hope this helps. Annie

Thanks for answering this, Annie! I love your paints and have been really excited about mixing the colors lately. It is so fun to play with the colors and come up with different concoctions! Thanks for making such an amazing paint!
Allison

Well, there you have it! Right from the source herself! Huge thank you to Annie for sharing her wisdom with us! I have painted my kitchen cabinets and I think we used 3-4 cans, but that will depend on the size of your kitchen/how many cabinets you have. Also, I love Annie’s tip about mixing colors with your fingers. I always use Q-tips since we have a million of them at home and that means less hand washing for me! Haha! 😉
Best of luck with your kitchen! Be sure to send a picture when you’re all done!
Allison

This is a really well done post, Allison. Great tips and advice and as Annie said, very balanced.
I have just started using Annie’s paint and look forward to blogging and posting about my first experiences really soon. I LOVE it!!

I am wondering how to apply Annie Sloan chalkpaint and wax to 1970’s wicker chairs that I want to use on an outdoor porch. The saleslady at my nearby store that sells Annie’s paint and supples says it can be used for outdoor furniture but how will I apply the paint and wax to wicker?

Hi Rose! I have heard that using the wax outside isn’t a good idea because the wax melts in the sun. And you’d need the wax to protect the paint from the elements. I guess you might be able to use polyurethane over the paint to protect it instead, but I’ve never tried ASCP on outdoor furniture, so I can’t tell you for sure.

Regarding how to paint wicker, I would just get some paint on your brush and then stipple it onto your piece. Make sure to really push the bristles into the wicker to get in all the nooks and crannies and then use smooth strokes to even the paint out. You may need to apply multiple layers of paint to get an even coat.

My best friend got hooked on ASCP and showed me all of the pieces she has done in her house. Everything she has painted with ASCP is so beautiful, she has me hooked to try it. I have three pieces so far (a desk, a dresser and a shelf) that I want to work on. Have the color picked out for the dresser….a dark blue. It’s going in our freshly painted light blue spare bedroom. I think it will look fabulous. The idea of distressing scares me! But I think that’s because I’ve never done it before. As my friend says, if I don’t like it, I can always paint over it! Thanks for this review. It was helpful and encouraging.

The distressing was the scariest part for me at first, too, Karen! It takes time to get used to, but the good thing is that you can always fix it if you don’t like it! Have fun on your painting projects! 🙂

Allison, I have several pieces of furniture that I am excited to paint and bring back to life..I love the dresser with the numbers that you did so beautifully! Did you use wax on the drawers and top of dresser or did you stain?
I am very new to this and a little scared to get started but can’t wait at the same time! Need all the help I can get!

Allison, well done blog. And we’re just starting to use Annie’s waxes on raw and finished wood AND with some of the best results in 45 years of selling and restoring antiques (about 20000 of them). Clear wax was the only thing that would fill and buff on a raw antique mahogany drum table and today I resurrected an 1870s French oak hutch from looking like it washed up on a beach to a classic dark wax glow. Customers were stunned who watched it happen.

Wash the grime off, let dry and brushed in the wax, wiped the excess and then buffed in a few minutes-no waiting for solvents to evaporate as in waxing paint. This also worked on high, hard finished on walnut-one more buffet to go tomorrow.

I love ASCP; have done a few pieces and find that the soft wax has a rather strong odor to it. I am asthmatic so that may be why I am finding this to be strong.
Should I wear some kind of mask that may help eliminate the problem?
Hope to hear from you soon; thanks Allison.

Hello Allison I’m having trouble with what I painted and was wondering if you could give me some advice!! I painted a dresser with graphite and added a little black acrylic paint. Waxed it and polished it but the paint is scratching off. Can you please help and advise. Thank you Allison

Hi Brooke! So sorry to hear that! The problem may be that you mixed the two paints. I don’t ever mix ASCP with other paints, but I know people who have mixed it with latex and have had good results. I don’t know about acrylic paint, though. Also, there have been some colors that had bad batches recently and you may have gotten one of them. Check with your stockist to make sure you didn’t get a bad can of paint. Either way, I think you’ll have to sand it all down and repaint it. Sorry I don’t have better news! Best wishes!

I have also been using ASCP for a few months now and am in love with it. I have a couple of questions for you:
1. Do you find that certain Annie Sloan colors work well with dark wax and some do not? I know that is probably personal preference, but I would love some insight! I just finished painting a desk in antoinette (light pink) and I am debating on dark wax or just sticking to clear.
2. Do you use the annie sloan wax brushes to apply your wax? I have been using old t-shirts and they seem to be working fine, but I am considering the investment and would love to know if they really are worth the money.

Hi Kasey! I’m so glad you’re loving the paint! I personally don’t use much dark wax. It just kind of depends on the look I’m going for. If I want a cleaner, truer color, I won’t use dark wax. If I want a more worn look or if I’m not totally satisfied with the paint color, I’ll use dark wax to give it a different look. You can also mix clear and dark waxes if you don’t want it to be too dark. You’ll just have to play with it and get a feel for what you like! Also, I do use wax brushes, but sometimes I’ll just use a chip brush or a rag. Totally personal preference on that, too! You could always pick up a small one to see if you like it. I think the small one works just as well as the larger one. Have fun painting! 🙂

Hi Allison, I have just discovered ASCP and can’t wait to use it. A retailer near me offers introductory classes to learn the techniques including waxing. The class is 3 hours and you come home with 5 display boards of different techniques. Just debating if this is worth $105 or if I should just get some paint and try it myself. Any advice?
Thanks!
Sherry

Hi Sherry! I have never taken a class. I wanted to in the beginning, but I never had the time and the more I played with the paint, the more confident I got. I’m constantly learning new techniques from what I see online and from talking to other furniture painters, too. I think whether or not you take the class, the best thing to remember is to have fun and just keep trying new things! 🙂

Donna – I have never mixed ASCP with other paints. I don’t think it’s really recommended, but I do know people who have mixed it with latex and were happy with the results. I personally just mix ASCP colors together to get the color I want! 🙂

I have just started using ASCP this weekend and I love it.
I hope to attend a workshop soon so it will be good to have
a little painting experience beforehand so I will know where
I need to learn more.

Yes, you can Barbara! If it will be in the sun and elements, it might be better not to wax because the wax could melt off. I have never painted outdoor furniture, so I can’t speak from experience, but I have heard that you shouldn’t use wax on outdoor furniture. However, it will distress a bit if it gets rained on, I believe. Sorry I can’t be more helpful!

I have an issue where I painted a china cabinet and then when waxed and complete I placed the top on it. So then a while later I had to take the top off and when I tilted the top forward to get my fingers under it and took it off. Well when I tilted it forward the top piece put and line in the paint on the top bottom piece. Argh. I thought it would be more durable that that?

Hi Nikki! Sorry that happened! How long did you wait after waxing before you put the top on? The Annie Sloan wax can take up to a month to cure and harden. If you put the top piece on too soon, it might not have cured yet. I’m guessing that’s what happened. If you’re looking for a faster curing/hardening time and a bit more of a durable finish, you could try polycrylic which is water based so it won’t yellow as bad as polyurethane. Hope that helps!

Hi Allison,
I’m new to the ASCP but have fallen in love with the way it turns out on other people’s projects. I chose to start by doing my kitchen cabinets. They’re 23 years old and made of solid red oak. I’m using the Pure White paint on them. I love the way most of the cabinets are turning out but I have several places where brown streaks &/or dots are showing through (makes them look grungy and dirty). One streak has at least 9 coats of paint on it and the brown still bleeds through. I thoroughly washed the cabinets with TSP before painting and now I don’t know what to do. It’s such a big project and I have a lot of time and money in this. Any suggestions to help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

So sorry to hear this, Tracy! Pure White and Old White can be a little tricky to work with sometimes. My advice would be to use shellac on the bleed through spots. You can either use a spray can of it or buy a small can and apply it with a brush. Once it’s dry, apply 1-2 coats of paint. If the bleed through persists, repeat this process. I’ve had to do this process a couple times on some difficult pieces. It’s much cheaper to use the shellac than lots of coats of chalk paint! 🙂
Hope it turns out for you! Best wishes!

Hi!
Was curious on what technique I would need to use for a two-tone. For example,I would like to do black with distressed turquoise peeking through. Do I first apply the turquoise and then wax and apply my black? Also, any suggestions on making my black a deeper black? Attempting for my first time this weekend. Thank you!

Hi Karen! Sorry I didn’t get back to you before the weekend. I would do a coat of Provence and then paint a coat or two of Graphite. As the Graphite is drying, you can wipe some away in spots (where you would normally distress) with a wet/damp rag. That will let the Provence show through without getting all the way down to the wood. Best of luck!

Thanks you for so many wonderful pointers and I apologize if I’m asking a question that’s already been addressed. I’ve never used ASCP before and it isn’t available anywhere close to my location so I’m debating on how much I’ll need to order online. I have a 3-piece, child’s oak bedroom suite. This includes a solid twin bed with under-bed drawers, a 5 ft 5-drawer dresser, and a desk. It still has its original wood grain finish with a glossy topcoat. I’m going for a pretty straightforward look- uniform coverage in Old White with no distressing. Also, I don’t plan on painting the insides of any of the drawers. I’ve read that a quart goes a long way but I have no point of reference and would rather not have to make multiple orders. Additionally, I assume that one can of clear wax would be plenty for this task- is that the case? Thank you SO much in advance; you are an invaluable resource.

I think one quart of Old White will be just fine. Two things to know about Old White, though, you may need to paint an extra coat to get more full coverage – depending on how dark your wood is. Also, sometimes wood bleeds through Old White. You’ll see splotches here and there if it does. If this happens, don’t keep painting over it. Use some shellac and cover the spots and THEN paint over them. Otherwise you’ll waste a lot of paint trying to cover the spots. Not sure this will happen with your pieces, but thought I’d warn you just in case. Best wishes! I’m sure you’ll LOVE Old White! It’s really pretty! Oh, and one can of wax is more than enough! 🙂

Hi there, love your pieces! I have a black wood dining table and
Chairs which just won’t go in my new house. Any hints or tips on how
I can lighten this up so I don’t have to buy a new set.. I love the duck egg
But just not sure if this is possible, I’ve never used ascp before so I was
Going to have a practice on a few smaller things before tackling the table
And chairs! Thank you xx

Duck Egg would be so pretty, Kerry! You could definitely do it! It might be better to seal the table top with polycrylic (water based) instead of wax for a more durable finish. Also, remember to sand edges, corners, etc. before you paint if you want wood to show through when you distress rather than the black paint. Have fun!!

Hi there! You mentioned having used ASCP on laminate… I have recently put the first coat on a laminate desk but noticed that the paint seems to scratch off somewhat easy. Will another coat or waxing remedy this problem or is it less than advisable to use it on laminate. I know lots of people do but my luck hasn’t been so great on this piece. i have had great success with all of my other projects. Thanks in advance!!

Hi Allison,
My adventure with ASCP has recently begun, and I found your post to be so helpful. We have recently moved into a new home and my plan was to paint the all white kitchen cabinets to a distressed look with Emperor Silk under Cream. Then I realized the cabinets are Thermofoil. I haven’t found anyone specifically addressing this finish, but I am concerned about breaking the integrity of the vinyl covering in the distressing process. I would appreciate any ad vise you can give me. Thanks!

You don’t need to sand the cabinets to distress them. With ASCP, you can wet distress. You paint the first color and then the second. As the second color is drying, take a damp cloth and rub it in the areas you’d like to distress. Easy as that! Best wishes! 🙂

I have light pine varnished stair banisters. Would the chalk paint be ok. Also the banisters are are used constantly as I have alot of people using the stairs. Would the wax be suitable or should I try some sort of varnish. I wipe the banisters down every day.
X

Hi Allison,
I am planning on painting my dinning furniture in the ASCP and was wondering if it will be durable. I was thinking about the table top with plates and silverware and glassware etc. ………..
I was wondering would it chip easily. Thanks Anita

I am interested in using the Annie Sloan chalk paint on my stair banisters. Do you think that this is a good idea given the railings will be touched by numerous pairs of hands on a daily basis? They currently have a light stained oak finish – I was thinking of the old white paint and the light wax – any suggestions? There are a total of 82 spindles – how much paint will I need? Thanks very much for your help – I love your page, very informative!

I just painted my first piece. I used Ochre on the legs of the bedside table and graphite on the top. The furniture in this bedroom is cherry and I’m not happy with the look of the graphite. My question is can I paint latex in a dark red tone over the graphite top and then wax the whole thing? I really hate to pay for the expensive red chalk paint for the small area.
Thanks

You really don’t need to wax over latex unless you’re using flat latex paint. If you use a semi gloss or glossy finish latex paint, you’ll be fine without waxing. I would recommend waxing the chalk paint, though.

I have an old dresser- not antique but certainly older than I am by a generation- that’s twice been painted with oil paint. It was my mother’s as a child, and then she repainted it and put it in my room as a little girl, and now I want to refinish it and put it in my baby’s nursery. I REALLY don’t want to prime it, but I will if it’s required as I’m attempting a smoother (still rustic, but not super distressed) look. Do you know if the Chalk Paint will adhere to the old oil if I clean it well? I can’t seem to find a straight answer to this anywhere! Thanks in advance!

It should, Lana. I have never had a problem with chalk paint adhering to a painted piece. If you want, you can use 100-150 grit sand paper and lightly sand the piece before you paint just to give it an even better chance of adhering.

i feel like i’m missing something because i am finding this paint to be exhausting to work with. i bought a honey colored vintage hutch and i wanted to make it just a bright fresh white. the hutch isn’t extremely glossy and i’m on my third coat and still seeing brush strokes. i wish i just would have bought some liquid sand paper, and primer spray and used regular paint

Kim probably finished her hutch ages ago, but I thought I would comment for anyone who may be reading this post later. 🙂 I have painted cabinets with ASCP Old White, and had the best results by putting on a thick first coat with an Annie Sloan brush, and then applying thinner coats (1-2 more) with a bit of water in a 1-2″ angled Purdy brush. I never watered down the can of paint, but rather kept a small cup of water with me (plastic punch cups work perfectly), and would barely tip my brush in it before dipping in the paint again. It really helped smooth out the brush strokes. You can also try painting with a small roller, but I haven’t done that myself.

I would like to paint my son’s nightstand in provence but I would like to use Rust-Oleum Varathane Interior Crystal Clear Water-Based Polyurethane instead of wax.Heard good things about it.This nightstand is overly abused (toys,books,etc…)and is also under a heat/cooling vent,so I’m thinking that wax won’t do it.I’m also looking for something low maintenance and I know that wax sometimes needs to be reapplied.What do you think.Thank you.

I have never used that topcoat, but it’s perfectly okay to use something other than wax. Use what you feel is best for the situation. It does sound like some sort of poly or urethane would fit your situation.

I have never used this paint and I was just curious as to whether or not the bLack looks dark like a regular black? I don’t want it to look distressed. Also, doing white over dark cherry built in book shelves. Do you recommend wax or a different coat? If different, any suggestions?

Hi Mary! The black – called Graphite – is really not black. It’s more of a deep gray/navy. You might be able to make it look a bit more black if you use dark wax.

Regarding white over cherry, it probably won’t be easy. You may need several coats of paint to cover the cherry. You’re almost better using a gray or mid-tone for the first coat or two to help with coverage – almost like a primer. You really can use whatever topcoat you want. Wax is great over chalk paint!

Joanne, the color was a mix of Antibes Green, Chateau Grey, and Old White. It turned out too minty for my liking which is why I used dark wax over it. I have to play with the mixture a bit to get it to what I want. 🙂

Hi Allison,
I have bought 2 Annie Sloan books, paint, wax and brushes. I have played with the paint a little. I know I can wash the brushes with water or wrap them in cellophane if I am going to stop painting for a few minutes. But how do you clean and keep the wax brushes? I have not used my wax brushes yet. Still just playing with paint. Thank you. Your blog is most helpful.

Hi Dee! I like to clean my brushes with mineral spirits. I let them sit in it for at least 30 min and then wash it out with soap and water. It gets my wax brushes really clean and doesn’t leave any residue behind! Happy painting!

I just picked up a dining table and bench from a lady that I paid to do this for me (didn’t realize how easy…. Could’ve done it myself). But, the bench for the table got 4 scratches in it as my 5 yr old scooted her feet over it to swing her legs under the table. Is that normal? And I’m noticing that little fingerprints are popping up all over it and we haven’t even had it for 24 hrs. Did she not seal it (wax it)? I need to fix this. I need durability for my 5 and 3 yr old. Any tips? And how do you clean it? I barely wiped with a damp cloth and paint came off…!!
Thanks in advance!!

Hi Kristy! Sorry this is so late. It could be two things. It sounds like she didn’t seal it, if she in fact used ASCP. But the other possibility is that she waxed it and it just hasn’t had enough time to cure – takes up to 30 days after waxing. I’d contact her if you haven’t already. You certainly shouldn’t be able to wipe paint off with a damp cloth – which is how I’d recommend to clean it. Hope everything turns out for you!

Hello tell me please I need to remove varnish from old mahogany teak table at the top before apply ASCP, or better to send it first .Ii understand that this paints not need sanded but this old table is heavy varnished . Please to advise .Thank you

Angela, on any other wood, I’d say go ahead and paint it. But I’ve heard that it is very difficult (or impossible) to paint teak. You can try if you want, but I can’t make any guarantees that the paint will stick. Sorry for the bad news. 🙁 Best wishes!

Hi Allison! Can you use the chalk paint, light wak, sanding and dark wax on af piece that is already painted? It was already painted when I bought it, so I dont know what kind of paint it is. I wish to paint the piece in a light greenish grey with the sanding effects and the effects from the waxing. It is mostly the saninding proces that I worrie about.. Do I need to remove the paint that is already on, so I get down to the raw wood before painting with ASCP? Because when I will do the sanding effect after painting with the ASCP, maybe it wont work? Or can I just do the hole proces with the ASCP, light wax, sanding and dark wax on top of the old paint?
Thank you! And hope I dont haven’t made too many spelling errors – I’m form Denmark 🙂

Helene – You can paint over the original paint and it should stick just fine. Regarding sanding – you may be able to get down to the wood when you sand (after painting with ASCP), but you will see some of the original paint, also. It just depends on what look you want and how much work you want to do. Hope that helps!

Hello Allison
I just purchase a used buffet Chantilly Collection Buffet by Gibbard. It is high gloss cherry wood. I have never painted furniture before do I need to sand this down before painting with the chalk paint? Also I read what you said about the wax any hints on how to put it on? Thank you in advance.

Cherry is tricky. If you’re painting it white, you may bet a lot of bleed through (orange/red color coming through the white). I’d try painting without sanding and see how it goes. It should stick just fine, but you may get bleed through. If you do, apply some shellac to the bleed through areas and then paint another coat or two. Regarding waxing – it takes some time to get used to… and a little arm muscle! Just don’t leave it on too long or it will be REALLY hard to get off! No more than 15 minutes max.

I have a knotty pine coffee table & 2 matching end tables, which I would like to try to pain, was wandering if you knew if Annie Sloan paint would cover thedark knotty areas alright. Also, I have a very old chest withlight varnish on it, I was wandering if this paint would cover without sanding or strippng. I am new to painting, & have never used Annie Sloan paint before, hoping you can help answer my questions> Thabk you so much, loved seeing your Beautiful painted projects, Jan

Hi Jan! I haven’t painted knotty pine, but I’m assuming it would be fine. If you see that you’re getting bleed through, just put some shellac over the darker areas and apply another coat or two of paint. You should be fine with the lightly varnished chest. No need to sand or strip it. Best of luck!

Hi i have been following the posts and reasrching the product and am ready to roll. The 1 question I have now is how much do I buy? I have 2 large double wardrobes, 2 large chests of draws, 2 bedside draws, and a bed to paint. It is currently a mid natural wood colour and i want to distress it. Do u think 2 ltrs would do it? Also how much wax is needed?
Also I am very surprised to see on the map that rhere are no uk stickists! Is this still the case or are there and opened recently??
Geatefully
Mandy 🙂

That’s so strange that there would be no UK stockists, Mandy. I would think they’d have the most stockists there! I just double checked and you’re so right! That’s weird!
I believe the paint is sold in quarts. I think you’d probably need 2-3 quarts of paint and 1-2 waxes. Just remember, you don’t need a ton of paint on your brush to get good coverage. Have fun! 🙂

hi Allison, thanks so much for your blog. I was tempted to discard an old pine bookcase as the local pine shop told me that nothing would cover the old waxed finish without lots of sanding but your blog has given me confidence that ASCP will do the job!! Anyway I just wanted to ask, I was thinking of using one of the off whites but reading your answers it would appear that white is a hard colour to get right. How many coats would you expect it to take to cover orangey pine?
Do you think wax will be a durable enough finish for a bookcase?
If I’m confident after painting my bookcase I do have other pieces I’ll try but given that I have so much clear wax I’m loathed to buy anymore unless I have to, so is Annie Sloan’s wax a special formula or would any good quality clear wax work?

Hi Deanne! I would say that you’ll probably need 2-3 coats of paint for good coverage. I would definitely start by using shellac over any knots before you start painting to help prevent bleed through. The wax is fine to use, but you can use any wax, really. I believe it will give a durable finish, but if you are really going to be hard on it – with a lot of wear and tear – you might opt for poly instead.

Awesome info! I’m new to DIY and painting and have a beautiful wall unit and coffee table but I can’t stand the maple honey color of the wood. I’m hoping this pain works the only thing holding me back from doing anything to it, is that it is Teak. I have researched a bit on painting teak but most of it refers to outdoor pieces. I apologize if I’m asking something that has previously been answered. Do you have any experience using this paint with Teak? Would I NEED to sand? Fingers crossed this paint is a go. It’s so beautiful I’m itching to use it and cover up this massive eye sore! Thank you so much!

I painted my kitchen cabinets old ochre and I want to repaint them old white. There is 2 coats of wax on them. They have been painted about 7 months. Can I just go ahead and paint over it with the old white? Thanks!

I have tongue & groove paneling in my basement, which has been stained in a minwax poly, golden oak . I am sooo tired of the look. I was thinking of using chalk paint over it and distressing it. Will this work or should we just remove it? Would it be too expensive and time consuming?

The expense and time depend on how much paneling you have. The paint should adhere just fine without sanding, but may take 2-3 coats to fully cover. And then you’d need a topcoat like wax or poly. You could use latex instead, but then you’d need to sand and prime before painting. So, it just depends on how much paneling you have and how much work you want to put into it. I’m sure it would look really pretty painted. I’d love to see a picture of it when you’re done if you do decide to paint it! 🙂

I tried painting a laminate desk and found the paint didnt want to stick well in some areas. In some areas after it dried, you could rub it right off. Will I be able to compketely remove tge paint with a wet rag? I liked tge colir of the piece before I tried to get fancy and paint it, now I’m regretting that idea. Any suggestions???

Yes, you should be able to remove the paint with a wet rag. The paint shouldn’t rub off once you put a topcoat like wax or poly on it, though. If you still want to try painting the piece, you could lightly sand the areas where the paint rubbed off and try painting them again. Then apply a topcoat and it should be fine! Best wishes!

Absolutely! The chalk paint should adhere just fine, but if you want to make sure you could lightly sand the table down before painting. Wax will work for a top coat. You may want to use 2-3 coats to give it a really durable finish.

Hi, I have recently painted a table and chairs with white annie sloan paint. I gave the chairs two layers of paint and one of clear wax. However, they have just been sat on for the first time tonight and the blue dye from people’s jeans has come off on the chairs! Do you know what I can do to stop this happening? Thanks

Hi Becky. I’m assuming that the wax hasn’t had enough time to cure yet. Cure time can be as long as 30 days, unfortunately. I know it’s a long time, but if you really want the chairs to hold up well, I’d suggest waiting the whole 30 days. You may need to use a little more wax on the blue areas and buff the blue out and then wait 30 days past that.

Hi I’ve just brought my first piece of furniture to try to shabby chic. I am interested in using the Annie Sloan chalk paints. The piece of furniture I’ve got has already been painted a duck egg blue, but is worn in some areas and you can see the wood underneath, which looks a orangish pine. I’d like to repaint it a cream then distress it in areas afterwards. But I don’t want to see any of the duck egg blue through. Do I need to do any thing to it before hand? ie sand it all down and try to remove the existing paint, or prime it? would be the best thing to do?

Hi Anne. I’m not sure I understand. Do you want to paint it cream and then distress down to the wood? If that’s the case, you’ll have to sand or strip the paint off before you paint it cream. You can sand/strip the whole piece or just do it in the areas you know you’ll be distressing – which would be less work. Hope that answer helps! Best wishes! 🙂

Hi,
I love your piece and found it really informative. Thanks.
I’ve painted a pine piece in the Country Gray. But on the top of it , it’s left some patches that look slightly darker ,looks a bit oily , yet dry to the touch. Sorry probably not explaining very well. Have I done something wrong ? Also is it ok to leave the piece without waxing , as I didn’t like the change in colour when I tried it ?
Thanks so much .
Regards Pip

I’m not exactly sure what you mean, but it sounds like some oils from the wood are coming through. You may want to try applying shellac to those areas and then applying another coat or two of paint. Regarding wax, you don’t necessarily have to use wax, but you do need some sort of top coat. Since the paint is flat, it is porous and therefore will stain very easily. Also, if it gets wet, it will rub off. I would definitely recommend using a top coat.

I have a question, I am new to chalk paint and I am going to paint a coffee table and end tables. They have grooves in them that are black and I would like to keep those grooves black and paint all other areas of the table. How would you suggest doing that? I have read about running wax candles or petroleum jelly over areas. These are deeper grooves that are decorations on the tops of the tables. Can you help me out? 🙂 Thank you so much!

I love, love,love chalk paint and have been painting only for a few months.
But love everything about it. I am just about to buy a new home and the family room is
Wall to wall wood paneling. I wonder if I can paint the wood paneling with chalk paint.
I will be filling in the creases with putty and then sanding.
Would you have any comments or recommendations ?
Can this be done?

Patty, you can paint paneling, but make sure to sand it well before doing so. I know Chalk Paint® adheres well, but I’d sand just to be on the safe side. Also, since the paint has a flat/porous finish, you’ll need to seal it with something. That can be wax or poly or something like hemp oil. Just make sure you seal it so it doesn’t rub off and so it’s easier to clean! Best wishes!

Allison,
I have a dresser that is finished in a light stain that I am going to chalk paint. Do you recommend painting the dresser with a dark paint color/base prior to using a light/whitish color chalk paint?

Holly, it totally depends on what you want to show underneath if/when you distress. If you want a darker color to pop through, you’ll need to paint the darker color first. You can just paint it in certain spots, if you want, to save some paint. Just make sure you remember where you painted it! 🙂

Hi, loved this article. I am about to start painting all of my pine bedroom furniture which is quite knotty. In old white. Firstly when you sat shellac, what would the uk equivalent be? Not hairspray is it? Also to save a bit of cash because I have a lot to paint and I want to be white could I use a primer and undercoat first to cut down on the amount of ascp I would need? Thank you! Xx

Such a great post, I recently blogged a similar post about getting started with ASCP. But… I wanted to pass along a tip to you about the coverage. I was at my local shop picking up some more ASCP and I was griping a little bit to the stockist that I don’t think it covers as well as all the hype says it will. She mentioned that when you are putting on your second coat, you can keep a spray bottle of water handy, when you add more paint to your brush and then to your piece, spritz it with some water before spreading it around on your piece. She indicated that this technique makes your paint go farther. I’ve tried it on a couple projects and so far so good, just don’t go crazy with the spraying… just light enough to thin it out just a bit, and only recommended on your second coat.

I’m going to try my first piece with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and my husband insists I need to remove the varnish from the furniture before painting. I am NOT a painting expert, and I usually take the easy way out and don’t remove varnish or sand or anything. But, it sounds like the ASCP is so easy that I don’t even have to remove the varnish, right?! Right? (Please tell me I’m right so I can continue to be lazy….and so my husband is not right….please!!)

Hi, Just stumbled across your blog/post here while researching info for chalk painting 2 things. Great info! I read all of the comments and saw 1 reference for using ASCP over Lacquer for a beige dresser. I have a black lacquer bdrm set that my daughter insisted on having back in the early 80s and refused to take with her when she moved out 14 yrs ago. I can’t stand the black lacquer and it’s not worth the work for me to try to sand it down or anything to repaint so, I’m wondering about using ASCP on this. Prob a blue or green over black. It’s a high gloss lacquer..do you think it would work without any prep?
Also, I’m planning on doing my kitchen cabinets. I ran across this post on another blog yesterday (hope it’s ok to type it) where she did her kitchen in chalk paint (Not AS) and sealed it with Sherwin Williams deck sealant as she really didn’t like the polycrylic on the chalk paint http://wilkerdos.blogspot.com/2013/05/using-chalk-paint-to-refinish-kitchen.html
On another blog that did some cabinets in an old house she used ASCP and a Minwax satin wipe on polyurethane. http://hartwoodroses.blogspot.com/2013/09/transforming-kitchen-cabinets-with.html Both have excellent step by steps for kitchen cabinets.
So, what’s your opinion of using ASCP over black lacquer? Thanks!

Hi, I am painting a wood bookshelf with ascp and the old white on this inside back and shelves keeps cracking and chipping off. I haven’t even finished the piece yet so I am a little frustrated with this product at the moment. Could you tell me what I can do?

Sorry to hear that, Chelsey. For some reason, the paint doesn’t want to stick to the surface you’re painting. I’d try sanding the whole thing – or at least where it is cracking and chipping and then try painting again. The surface might just need to be roughed up a bit. This doesn’t usually happen with ASCP, but every now and then we find something it doesn’t stick well to. Hope things turn around for you!

Hello! Thanks for this very informative post!! I am working on my first ASCP piece and ran into a problem. When I was waxing, I chipped some paint off with the edge of the brush. Should I sand then repaint and wax again? Any advice is much appreciated!!!

Hi Allison, just curious since we are only trying out ASCP once for some dressers we have, what other brushes will work for the wax? We don’t really want to spend the $40 for her wax brush. Will a Purdy be okay or should we go with a cloth? Thanks! 🙂

Hi Allison–
I recently used ASCP on a desk I bought to redo and I’ve had endless problems. So far using Old White on the darker oak table required about 4 to 5 coats! And in places the paint has crackled. And finally I used painters tape to block of an area to paint the chunks of paint are lifting right off. I did clean my piece before painting. For the drawers, I ended up doing things the old fashioned way, sanding, priming and painting. I don’t like the distressed look in furniture and was trying to achieve a smoother finish. Any ideas about why this hasn’t worked for me? Any advice on how to keep the rest of the paint from coming off like it did with the tape?

So sorry you’re having problems! It sounds like you’ll need to sand the whole piece before painting it again. Chalk paint sticks to *almost* everything, but there are those pieces that it just doesn’t work out on. If you want to still paint it, I’d sand well in all the places it is peeling or cracking and then paint them again. Another thing you could do is to shellac the whole thing – or at least the areas where you’re having problems and try painting over that. Best wishes!

Hello there! Love your website! Just painted my first piece of furniture with Florence, clear wax & dark wax. It turned out beautiful ! I used a rag to apply the wax & was wondering if applying with the wax bush makes it a little easier. I’m not opposed to spending the $ on a brush if it helps with the application. Thank you so much!

Hi Lu! I think either application style is fine. It’s all preference. I really like them both. You could always buy a cheap brush and see how you like using it before buying an expensive one. Hope that helps!

I love your blog – so informative! I painted a piece of furniture and oil spots showed through. My colorist told me to cover it with shellac. I put a coat on and then painted another coat of duck egg blue. The oil spots reappeared! I painted another coat of paint and another coat of shellac. It looks beautiful now. Can I use wax after using shellac? Thanks for your help!

Glad it worked out, Suzanne! Is the shellac the final coat or did you paint over that? You could probably wax over shellac, but I’d prefer to wax over paint. Either way, you can definitely still finish it off with wax!

I too find the information here very interesting. I am considering painting my old bedroom furniture to give to my son. I’m concerned because the furniture isn’t solid wood – – I call it a veneer but I have a friend that says the top of the dresser and armoire is a “vinyl veneer”. Will the ASCP adhere to this type of surface (very shiny even after 30 years)? Also do you recommend using a primer such as KILZ before applying the chalk paint? The furniture is well built but the finish is worn in several areas. I’d like a “masculine” look. Any suggestions as to colors?

The paint should adhere just fine, Susan. I would do a light sanding to make sure the finish is even (you talked about it being worn in areas) and then just start painting. You really shouldn’t need a primer, but can use one if you’d like. Personally, I’d skip it! As for color, I really like ASCP Graphite or even French Linen might be a nice masculine neutral color. Best wishes on your project!

Unfortunately, you can’t use poly over wax. The poly will just bead up and not soak in. If you want a shinier look, I’d recommend buffing the wax that you’ve already applied. The more you buff, the shinier it will be. I’ve had some pieces come out quite shiny after I buffed them well. Hope that helps!

It should work just fine, Renae! If you want to ensure a little more that it will adhere well, you can sand the piece a little to scuff it up a bit. But, really, you should be fine with just painting right on top of it!

Yes, you should be fine, Kathy! If you want to smooth any rough spots out to give it a more finished look, I would do a light sanding prior to painting. If you’re going for a more vintage, distressed look, though, you can probably just start painting!

Love your site. I have refinished furniture for many years , but would really like to try Anne’s chalk paint and wax. I would like to give my kitchen cabinets an aged looked, but I do not want to paint them as I like the wood look. Is it possible to use the dark wax on a finished kitchen cabinet [original stain and poly from the cabinet maker] to get that aged look? If so should I use clear wax first. I would appreciate any help in this area.

Hi Joyce! You could try it over the poly. If you do, I’d only use dark wax, since there’s already a layer of “protection” between the paint and the dark wax. It should give an aged look without being over the top, but I’m not positive since I’ve never tried that before. Another option would be to strip the poly off and wax over the stain. If you went that route, I would use the clear wax first and then the dark wax so it doesn’t get too dark. Best wishes!

I am thinking of using chalk paint on the cheap paper covered cabinets in a mobile home we are selling, do you think it will work and besides clean will I need to do anything else or is it a bad idea painting them with chalk paint.

Have you ever done a piece using JUST the clear and dark waxes? I have an old barndoor I want to make into a headboard, but don’t really want “color” on it – just some look of distressing and protection. Advice?

I have a bedroom set that I am going to be painting for a lake house, and am intrigued by everything I have seen with these paints, but since I’m not an overly experienced painter, I have some questions…First, the present color is a medium-dark brown (wood), and I am leaning towards a light to medium gray. I love a distressed look, but I don’t know if I need two colors of the chalk paint, or if I can just pull through some of the brown? When using the was, I had seen a video that made it look so easy, but I am sure that’s not the reality. After the first coat of paint dries – you “paint” on a coat of soft, clear wax, and buff it into the paint? Then apply another coat of paint if needed – then another coat of wax – and buffing it with a rag according to your desired finish? (Or if more than one coat of paint is needed, do you do all coats of paint before you apply the wax?) Am I correct in thinking that it is after the last coating of wax that you can also lightly sand edges that you might want to distress? Also, the dark wax is only needed if you want to have a darker, distressed look in certain spots. Is this correct? The furniture does NOT have to be distressed for this paint to look good – is this correct? It all seems too good to be true as far as prep time, coverage, and clean up. It is a king-sized headboard with several accent pieces, and work space will be limited, so I hope this all can work for this project. Also, which grey tone would you suggest to put over brown wood for a bedroom? Thank you!

You definitely don’t need two colors if you don’t want to do the extra work, Kathy. When you distress, the brown of the wood will show through. You only need to wax after the last coat of paint. I paint, distress (sand), and then wax and buff. I rarely use dark wax on its own because it is so dark. I just don’t really like the look of only dark wax, so I will do a coat of clear wax first and then apply the dark wax. You’re right, the furniture does not need to be distressed, but Chalk Paint® is kind of “meant to” be distressed, so it distresses easily. I’ve done non-distressed pieces with it and they have turned out just fine. You don’t need to sand before painting. I suggest wiping everything down with a damp rag before painting, though. It really is that easy! 🙂 Oh, and I really like Paris Grey, but it is a bit more blue than gray. Hope I got all your questions answered! Happy painting! 🙂

Thank you for the HELPFUL advice! Just two more questions, and I feel I will be ready to roll. I would prefer to have a truer gray than blue, so do you have a suggestion for another color or a mixture of colors that would work? Would prefer a light to medium shade. Also, is only one coat of paint typically required? I do think I will play around with the distressing, so paint – distress – wax? No second coat before distressing? Thank you again for your time and expertise:)

I really don’t think ASCP has a true gray. You may have to look at a different brand for that. Also, I would probably recommend two – three coats. It depends on coverage, but I usually do about two coats. I’d do two coats, distress, and then wax. Happy painting!

I have just used the ASCP for the first time. I painted a dresser, vanity, headboard and footboard in Paris Grey. I really love it. Now I am trying to decide whether to use clear wax or some other sealer. I was all set to use the clear wax and have become a little reluctant given the learning curve and wanting these pieces to turn out nice. I am also concerned with the curing time for the wax. It sounds like my bedroom set would not be able to be used for at least a month until the wax cures, it that right? I don’t want the wax getting on the bedding, etc. If I don’t wait the month then it sounds like scratching and marking up the paint may be the issue, correct? If I decided to go with another sealer what would you recommend? By the way, I put the ASCP over an already painted surface and it went on like a dream. I really like the chalky look of it but know I will have to seal with something. Any advice you could give me would be appreciated. I am trying to have these done before my daughter comes home from college.

Hi Deborah! I think the wax is fine. It’s not a big enough learning curve to not use it. You could always use another brand of wax instead if that would be less intimidating. The cure time is about 30 days, but that doesn’t mean it will get on your bedding. It will be dry and smooth to the touch once you buff it. It will just be more prone to scratches and marks within the first 30 days. Just be a little extra careful those first few days. You can use polycrylic if you don’t want to use wax. It’s not my favorite look ever, but I do use it on occasion. Hope that helps!

Hi Allison,
I decided to try the ASCP on my bar 40 year old bar stools. I can say that my experience has had some ups and downs. Mostly user error. I love the ease of it but have had some trouble with painting the spindles on the legs and back. I either get globs of paint or uneven coverage which then causes uneven surface on a second coat. I feel I need to hit the redo button. I have not yet applied wax, so my question is can I completely wipe off the paint and start over?? Also, do you have any suggestions on how I should approach painting these spindles?? Sponge brush possibly?? Watering down the paint to slow down drying?? My second question is about the color. I went for old white and it seems to be a very bright white. Will this darken after wax is applied?? Finally, can I use a latex paint over the chalk paint without using a primer?? Or can I mix up my own chalk paint to add some color and use that on top of the ASCP (45 minute drive to get another can). Thanks for any help you may have:)
Kim

Hi Kim! Sorry you’ve had troubles. Spindles are so hard to paint. I hate painting them! I would suggest several light coats of paint, so you don’t get globs of paint on them. You can definitely wipe off the paint that’s already on there with a damp rag, if you wish to start over. The Old White should be more of a creamy white – compared to Pure White. The clear wax won’t change the color much. It might make it a little deeper, but not much. If you wish to paint over it, you can do so with latex paint or another chalky paint without having to use primer. Chalk Paint acts as a great primer! Hope this helps!

Your post has been so helpful! I have never used ASCP but I’m trying to refinish my grandmothers old hutch and I have hated the way it’s come out. I sanded it down and used flat paint on it instead of just going with chalk paint…my question for you is now that I want to use ASCP can I paint with it straight over the other paint or should I sand it back down to the wood? It’s a navy blue color and I would want to put a similar shade over it with the chalk paint and give it the distressed look. Thanks for any pointers you can give me!!

Hi Megan! Having used flat paint, you can easily paint over it with ASCP without any sanding. It should be easy to cover since you are going with a similar color. After you’re done painting with ASCP, you can sand/distress to your liking and then seal it. Happy painting!

I have a question about painting over cherry wood. I’ve taken an intoductory Annie Sloan class, and I dont’ want to mess up! It’s my understanding that it is best to shilac over the cherry wood. Is that correct? I want to paint it an old white or old ochre.

Hi Allison. Love your blog by the way! Quick Question. I was about to go buy some Annie Sloan chalk paint to paint a wood rocking chair I purchased from Craigslist. I’ve never used Chalk paint but love the look from all the pics I see everywhere. Do you think it would work on a rocking chair, since well, you have to sit on it. Wondering if it will scrap off from all the wear and tear of sitting, rocking, etc.
Thanks in advance!

Absolutely, Veronica! It won’t scrape off at all. You may want to lightly sand the chair before painting, but it should adhere really well and you shouldn’t have a problem. If you finish it with wax, you may want to wait at least two weeks to sit in the chair regularly to give the wax more time to cure. Happy painting!

Hi – A friend has leant me a sample pot of Annie Sloan chalk paint as I am planning on painting my bannisters. Do you recommend this paint for bannisters in a high use area? Will the wax be sufficient protection? Or do I need to use something else to protect it? The bannisters currently have a very shiny dark varnish on them and I want to turn them white! Thanks

I think chalk paint would be fine on banisters. You may want to lightly sand them first, just to give the paint a little more grab on to. The wax would work, but if you want a really durable finish, I’d suggest a few coats of clear polycrylic. Happy painting!

I’m using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Old White to white wash my original hardwood floors. I did our master bedroom first and sealed it with Annie Sloan Floor Lacquer. As I’d heard, this gave the floors a very matte finish with almost a rough feel compared to more traditional floor finishes. I think I’d prefer something a little smoother/glossier, plus I’ve read that the glossier the finish, the better it stands up to wear and tear. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good water-based poly that plays well with ASCP?

Hi Alison, I’m trying to revive an old oak china cabinet and wonder how this paint works on oak since it has such a distinctive grain. Also, have you tried the RECLAIM Beyond Paint, if so what are the differences between ASCP and RECLAIM?

Hi there,
I made a bit of a mistake. I was told that I should use wax to protect my (outside) door that I painted. Now I’m realizing that you aren’t suppose to use wax on outdoor items. My question is, is there a way to get the wax off without taking off all the paint? Or am I going to have to start all over?

You can try to use mineral spirits, Stephanie. If that doesn’t work, you may need to sand it off. In the future, I would either not seal the paint at all for outdoors or seal it with polyurethane/polycrylic to help protect it from the elements. Best wishes!

I have recently purchased an older table and matching cane-back chairs. They seem to have previously been re-done in a kind of stark-white with no distressing. I am wanting to give it a more tan-cream color with some distressing. I understand that I can probably just paint right over with the ASCP, but since it was previously painted white, how will I get that dark distressing that I am envisioning? Should I first paint over the old white with a darker color, or sand it all down and start from there, or do you have any other ideas?
I have enjoyed your review and I am excited to begin this project!

Hi Courtney! You could try distressing it a bit as it is before repainting it. That way the wood will show through when you distress again later (after repainting). It might be a nice look to have some of that white show through, too, but I understand wanting to see the wood, too. I think that’s probably your best bet. I think sanding all the white paint off is just too much work, in my opinion. 🙂 Happy painting!

Hi Allison,
I am moving into my first apartment and of course most of the furniture that i have is cheap or second hand. And most of them, as you can guess, are laminate. I’m so excited to try out your technique but i just wanted to know how I could achieve that washed out grey look. have any tips! please let me know. Most of the furniture is currently a medium honey brown “fake wood” color. How would I start out the project 🙂

Hi Vanessa! I guess I’m not really sure what you mean by “washed out grey look”. Can you email me some pictures at thegoldensycamore@gmail.com? Hopefully I can help you out when I have a better understanding of what you’re looking for! Thanks! 🙂

Please help and thank you. I put 2 separate coats of paint on my dining table. The instructor said that we could mix the dark and clear wax to emulate a step, which I did. The table looks amazing, however, the finish will scratch right off with my nails or anything that drags across it. It is not tacky to touch or sticky. It just scratches off super easily. What do I do to fix this problem?

The wax takes 30 days to fully cure. I’d try to either not use the table at all for 30 days after finishing it, or at least try to use it very lightly. That wax has to have a chance to cure and harden for a couple weeks. I’d re-wax the spots that have scratched (or the whole top, if you want) and then let it cure.

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I was very disappointed overall with the Annie Sloan chalk paint. I applied this to a a poplar table that I built. I used three coats of wax and at first was liking the way it looked. I have young children and found that things would easily absorb into the wax and into the paint and stain the paint underneath. I tried to wash it out and was shocked to find how easily I was able to wash off the wax and the chalk paint leaving the exposed wood underneath. I finished this projected about a month ago and so I definately doubt its long term durability. Furthermore one of the reasons I chose to use the Annie Sloan chalk paint was because I could match the table with the used chairs much more easily. I washed down all of the chiar before applying any paint but even still it took several coats of paint to cover up all the exsisting paint. One the first chair I tried to wax I noticed that some of the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint would rub right off while trying to apply the wax leaveing large areas that were now not covered with paint. This paint did not at all live up to the hype that it would easily adhere to surfaces. After that I sanded the chairs to give them more texture and although this helped it did not resolve the problem completely. A lot of the paint would rub off as I applied the wax. Additionally I feel that this product is very expensive especially considering my dissapointment over living up to its hype. The time and effort I have put into my project are now over priced and wasted due to the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I would NOT recommend this product to anyone.