Chiyoda

A political controversy surrounds Yasukuni Shrine because since 1978, fourteen class A war criminals are among the 2.5 million people enshrined at Yasukuni. Furthermore, the visits by several Japanese prime ministers and cabinet members to the shrine since 1975 have been causing concerns regarding a violation of the principle of separation of church and state. Next to the shrine buildings stands the Yushukan, a museum that commemorates and documents Japan's wars from the perspective of the conservative right wing.

Well, it only took 47 years, but finally Tracy Island has come to life in Tokyo in the form of the charming Thunderbirds Cafe. It nails the vibe of the 1960s TV show perfectly. Clambering down the stairs among dense faux-foliage to the restaurant’s basement entrance – a lavish red leather door – visitors are greeted by a spacious hall decked out in thrall to International Rescue, those pioneering puppets who saved the world week in, week out. All the music is taken from the show, a mix of tropical tiki pop and dramatic adventure scores, and mute TV screens show episodes on loop.

Akuma wore a pink and white maid's costume with shiny black shoes with schoolgirl buckles. She had hair-cutting instruments stuffed in her apron pockets like Batman's utility belt. I signed a release form and had Hiromi plead with her, "Do not cut too much." Akuma said I was her first American customer. She told me, "You are very handsome." At least that's what Hiromi said she said. It would have been impolite for me to argue. While I wasn't allowed to ask Akuma any questions, she interrogated me like Nancy Grace after a "not guilty" verdict. Was this my first time in Japan? What did I think about her country? Was the water too hot? How long was I staying? Would I come back to see her again?

Staff dressed like ninja escort you via trapdoors to your table, take your order and might even perform special ninja magic tricks. Sure it’s campy and even touristy, but dude, they’re ninjas! Kids will love it, and grown-ups don’t have to suffer through bad food. À la carte dishes with ninja-fied names (‘transformation of tuna and negi (leek) sashimi’) are creative but dainty for the price; go for the 10-dish set menus.