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Yep, Zeus and Quick make actual cutting wheels, but I had these at hand and cutting wheels cost money (40-50 usd per piece) so...

always good to use whats on hand. The ones I was thinking of were <$10 from KBC. They had the straight side and chamfer listed in their catalogue.....their new online system is a nightmare, pictures are not accurate and descriptions brief, so its hard to tell if they still carry them. I can't pinpoint why I think this, but they didn't seem like they were presented as cut knurling wheels which iir were separate and expensive....they were just in with the regular wheels but without the chamfer.

One question, how is this different than a 2 wheel pressure cutter in terms of load on the spindle and materials being knurled?

I think MattiJ missed your question. Cut knurls like this one put very little pressure on the spindle and material because they remove (cut) the material. Traditional knurling tools deform the material.

If your "2 wheel pressure cutter" is the straddle/scissor type that has the wheels on opposing sides of the work, then it won't put much pressure on the machine either because the knurling tool takes the pressure. Bump knurls that you have to push hard against the work with the cross slide are the ones that put the most pressure on the spindle.

I think MattiJ missed your question. Cut knurls like this one put very little pressure on the spindle and material because they remove (cut) the material. Traditional knurling tools deform the material.

If your "2 wheel pressure cutter" is the straddle/scissor type that has the wheels on opposing sides of the work, then it won't put much pressure on the machine either because the knurling tool takes the pressure. Bump knurls that you have to push hard against the work with the cross slide are the ones that put the most pressure on the spindle.

Straddle type bump knurler and cut knurler are both easy for the machine.
Cut type knurler probably works with wider range of materials and also on quite thin walled parts.
The knurled tube in my photo has 1.5mm or so wall thickness.
Anyting from aluminium to semi-hard 416R stainless or crmo is workable with cut knurler, Im not so sure about bump knurling tools.

Another thing from what I've read about cut vs. bump knurling is that the OD of the piece with cut knurling stays the same (material is removed) whereas with bump knurling it's increased (material being displaced outwards). Both would have their uses.

Another thing from what I've read about cut vs. bump knurling is that the OD of the piece with cut knurling stays the same (material is removed) whereas with bump knurling it's increased (material being displaced outwards). Both would have their uses.

Loose bearing fits and shafts turned under size is one thing where I still use bump knurling.