Designing a Kimono-sleeved jacket

The sorry saga of the jacket I chose as the centre piece of my Sewing with a Plan (SWAP) challenge meant I was determined to fix on an alternative before the New Year. So for the last few days I have been plotting.

I wanted a jacket that has a shape that contrasts with this one, Simplicity 7305.

Simplicity 7305 jacket

I wanted

a fitted into the waist look, as opposed to boxy

a proper (stand and fall) collar as opposed to a simple stand (Nehru) collar

Initially I scoured the pattern sites, and looked at lots of vintage patterns (gussets have died a death in both RTW and modern commercial patterns). Because I could not find what I had in mind I designed my own pattern for this project.

The design

So I have made a pattern for a simple jacket pattern without side seams, but with a gusset panel at the side body, and kimono sleeves. There is a back piece cut on the fold, jacket fronts, a facing, a two piece collar, and a belt. And a lining pattern.

Kimono style jacket for SWAP

The toile

I am toiling it in a nice wool (welcome back into my life wool, my old friend) that is actually a dark navy with little bits of green in it, although you can’t see it here.

Dark navy wool with white – front and underside

This is me checking the style and size of the collar (obviously it will be somewhat smaller when sewn).

Deciding on the collar

I have already got a skirt cut out of this cloth (the wrap around skirt that I toiled earlier) so I was keen to see if I might make a jacket in the same material. Unfortunately I only had a small uneven piece left. This is what I did:

cut the sleeves down on the jacket so it now has short sleeves (Kimono sleeves, being cut with the bodice are quite cloth-greedy)

joined the front facing to the front to save two seam allowances

cut the under-collar on the cross grain

will make the belt from the remaining scraps, maybe in a single thickness

A short sleeve jacket is a novel look but I think it will look quite nice with a jumper underneath, especially to lighten it up as this is quite a dark fabric for me.

Here it is, partly sewn, with shoulder seams pinned and collar draped. I will want to make sure the stand actually stands by pad stitching some firm organdie to it and gives some height to the collar. I think this can be achieved with pad stitching. I tied it up with my purple silk belt.

close up of sleeve and collar

Variations on the design

When I make up this jacket for the SWAP I shall make it with full length sleeves, but that will probably require a change to the gusset. I would ideally want the sleeves to be fairly slim, so I will taper the gusset, or maybe ending it with a triangle fairly close to the underarm. Also with a longer sleeve it is possible that I may need to deepen the angle. In the fairly thick wool (below) the sleeves have a life of their own. If the sleeves work well, I will have a pattern that could also work very well as a coat.

Also I think this might work well with some exposed seams, say on the shoulder. Or with the side panel in a contrasting fabric. This wool is very nice as it has an interesting reverse. In making up the toile I created two belts – one with the check, and one (that I am wearing at the top of the post) with the reverse spotty side. I went with a narrower belt due to the shortage of fabric. This is joined in three places. I am pleased to say that I love this pattern, and it got the thumbs up from my family members. As far as the SWAP is concerned this jacket will now replace the Simplicity 100. I made up the 1970s wrap round skirt too – it makes a nice suit with an A line skirt, but I don’t think I will do this skirt for the SWAP.

Related

10 Responses

Jenny

Amazing. That is as right for you as the other was wrong (if you know what I mean). The large collar and the fullness of the kimono style gives you a nice top line and the short sleeves look really good.

Caroline

Joyce

I adore this on you. I didn’t see much wrong with the other one, but now I see this is much more your personality…lively and interesting. really cool. Your a trooper… keep marching forward —- so exciting.
By the way, I have found a spray for hair that washes out (brown to light brown) , and I think it will get me through the stages to the complete natural grey/silver.. and I have cut my hair short pixie again, which I like much better then the long. Yippieee. (Santa bought me a Serger this year ! fun fun fun