29 SUDBURY

As one drives through the back roads of Sudbury, mansions punctuate the darkness, which threatens to contain bears possibly, or at least badgers. We are a long way from the South End, where chef Evan Deluty’s restaurant Stella first made a splash in 2005. With its gleaming white decor and late hours, it was instant bait for fashionable urbanites.

Now Deluty has joined forces with WAAF radio personality Greg Hill to open 29 Sudbury — essentially, the suburbanite’s Stella. It is a mansion to Stella’s 1-bedroom, two stories in a big old building. There’s not much like it in these parts — the express purpose of 29 Sudbury is to provide those who live nearby a city dining experience without the drive. It’s clearly welcome.