Friday, September 28, 2012

Had a sneak preview of Awesome Walls in Finglas today. It was a hive of activity as they had only 24 hours to go to their opening. The wall is massive another level compared to any other wall in this country. The bouldering is on two levels and looks great, I'm itching to get stuck in. The very steep prow lead wall looks great and I will definitely be bringing my harness next time. There is tonnes of space there will be a shop a cafe, a kids room/yoga studio and a board room. Check it out.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Went up to Wicklow Gap yesterday with Simon. The plan was originally was walk into Glanekeera but there was a very cold wind and the rain threatened so we decided to keep close to the road. Check out a boulder Seamus had mentioned near his boulder just west of the Gap, nice little warm up arete and another fingery little move.

Went on down to Seamy's boulder and did the right arete which felt a lot harder than last time, felt like I was missing something. Technique or strength maybe?

Right artete.

Did the middle line quite quickly, I had a real fight on it last time but I knew the sequence and the top was dry this time. Did it two way from the left stepping in and from the right - the proper start - starting from the sidepulls. Very nice problem, plenty of thumbdercutting.

RHS of Left arete.

Tried both side of the left arete. RHS very technical bardoor and the right is more thuggy using the good incut flake/crack with a blank topout. Just right again is a nice wide layback crack. It's a great little boulder and well worth a visit. Will do a little topo soon.

Simon on the top slab.

Then we made our way up the hill to check out some slabs that I had terraced a while back. Tried two of the three. Did the top one, very nice incut little crimps. The bottom one will go but didn't. And the middle one looks quite hard, but good.

We headed to St Kevin's crack but just as we got there it rained and then stopped once we got to the car but that was that.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Have been to The Scalp the last two days, I'm trying to get some bouldering under my belt in preparation for the winter. The Scalp is ideal as its a short drive, zero walk in and there is loads of stuff at or just above my current level. My ultimate goal is to do all the 6b/6c in a day but first I have to do them at all. It really is a pleasant spot and the problems are quite unique both powerful and subtle. I might make a video once I have got them all wired, I have a suspicion that everyone uses different beta on most problems.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Climbed on the main crag in Glendo for the first time on Saturday. I had only done a few single pitches on Acorn Buttress prior. Lovely breezy day, warm even in our shirt sleeves. Clancy and I did three routes, all multi starred classics.

Quartz Gully HS
Cracks on the Garden of Eden VS
Deirdre VS

We started QG a little low and I led the first two pitches, Clancy took the last. Crux is cool, lovely exposure, easy for 4b I feel. Plenty of stuck gear as well, like a sport route.

Someone had done a dump below the start of Cracks, Clancy got the first pitch and laybacked up the corner. I used holds on the right which felt a lot easier. I didn't bother going left to the hand crack at the start of p2 went straight up past the loose flake. Top section is brilliant steep, good handholds all the way but lacking feet in places, I got pumped and had to move out left for a shakeout which was weak, should of just pushed on but I don't see why I would have any stamina.

Clancy led the hard pitch of Deirdre, I was still pumped and found it tricky seconding. I led the top pitch, very easy, didn't place any gear due to lack to massive cams.

I'm not sure why a lot of the routes are divided into so many pitches, I understand why this was done back in the day but it doesn't make any sense to describe them thus now. All three routes we did could of been done in a single pitch with a 60m rope if one was very careful about extending runners.

There was loads of people out bouldering and it was funny to walk down from the crag and slag them. I've been on the receiving end many a time. It was great to climb on the crag, the rock is incredible and it's such a great setting.