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YotaMD.com author

Figured I'd share some recent creations for the Supra. This will serve as a showcase for the parts and a tech discussion of their design/manufacture/assembly. If these make it into a finished, ongoing "product" I'll include links to buy them at that time. For now it's just some show 'n tell I thought some of you might be interested in. Feel free to suggest other items you think might be good for these kind of parts.

I'm using Solidworks 2015 to do all the modeling and Shapeways for printing services. Materials are generally nylon, but anything is possible. Titanium, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Kevlar, Carbon Fiber, etc...

First up: "Stealth Switch Panel"

This is a switch panel insert to replace the "COIN" insert to the left of the steering wheel. I know it fits for 89+, not sure about pre 89. The version pictured has holes setup for the common 0.75" x 0.50" rocker switches. I use one switch for my diagnostic circuit and the other is secret (shhhhh). The picture below shows an unpainted version. I'll update with a painted one if I can find a good paint to match the factory switches/panel.

Have you ever wanted to know the voltage in your headlight washer sprayer?! Me either. I have, however, wanted to start replacing the factory gauges in the cluster with aftermarket water temp, oil pressure and boost. That being said, I like the voltmeter functionality. I found miniature digital voltage displays that barely fit in the windshield washer button area to the right of the wheel. The first prototype is on its way from the printer so for now you'll just have to make due with the rendering from SolidWORKS until I can test fit the real deal. There will be a smoked piece of acrylic in front of the display so it looks nice and clean like the Climate Control display.

Future Parts:
-Gauge inserts to you fit aftermarket gauges (52mm) in the factory locations. You know what sucks more than the factory gauges? Hacked up gauge clusters. I've seen some good conversions, some poor. I want to do it better than anyone else and I think perfect fitting 3-D printed parts are the answer. Ideally there would be nearly no permanent destruction of your stock cluster. This one will be challenging.

-Boost Controller insert. My Greddy Profec B Spec 2 just hangs out in the space beneath my single DIN stereo. I'd like to mount it more professionally in the space where the factory ash tray resides.

A HG job took HOW long??

An idea I had years ago was a switch panel to replace the flip open ashtray in the center console. I made one out of acrylic, bent into shape, turned out ok (I had mine hooked up to lock TEMS in full hard mode). A 3D printed one with openings for multiple switches/buttons could be useful. Vandal-resistant switches are pricey but nice.

YotaMD.com author

An idea I had years ago was a switch panel to replace the flip open ashtray in the center console. I made one out of acrylic, bent into shape, turned out ok (I had mine hooked up to lock TEMS in full hard mode). A 3D printed one with openings for multiple switches/buttons could be useful. Vandal-resistant switches are pricey but nice.

Yeah, I think that space is prime territory for a functional upgrade. The ash tray is just a rattling change drawer for me so I could do without it. My boost controller is about the right size to fill that void. The Zeitronics LCD display would also work well there.

I've got my eye on DMLS systems. They're far from DIY territory now, but in a decade I think it'll be attainable. 3D printing went from a novelty 10 years ago to "Holy shit, I can make ANYTHING" now. The strength, even on some of the cheaper plastic materials, is amazing.

At work I printed a Titanium piece recently. Hole crap was that cool. 98% strength Ti6-4 printed to tolerances better than 0.005" in a shape I could never have had machined, even with a 6-axis CNC. Just jaw-dropping cool!

Formerly Nosechunks

I've got my eye on DMLS systems. They're far from DIY territory now, but in a decade I think it'll be attainable. 3D printing went from a novelty 10 years ago to "Holy shit, I can make ANYTHING" now. The strength, even on some of the cheaper plastic materials, is amazing.

At work I printed a Titanium piece recently. Hole crap was that cool. 98% strength Ti6-4 printed to tolerances better than 0.005" in a shape I could never have had machined, even with a 6-axis CNC. Just jaw-dropping cool!

New Member

Yeah, I think that space is prime territory for a functional upgrade. The ash tray is just a rattling change drawer for me so I could do without it. My boost controller is about the right size to fill that void. The Zeitronics LCD display would also work well there.

Definitely interested in the stealth switch panel and Gauge inserts for sure! The center ash tray is a great idea also! Nice to see some good ideas being explored for the Mk3 still. Subscribed!::salute::

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Haha, to clarify, I designed and modeled the part at work and paid a printing service to do the actual printing. That being said we did meet with a DMLS printer vendor recently and are reviewing the ROI on getting our own in house.

Yeah, I'd love to help bring a little bit of new excitement to SM. I doubt my contributions alone will do that, but hopefully i can help be a part of a resurgence. Years ago this place was hopping. Build threads all over doing GREAT stuff. Mike, JJ, Ian, jdub, other "in the know" folks involved in threads daily, etc... Now it's a bit bleak.

Definitely interested in the stealth switch panel and Gauge inserts for sure! The center ash tray is a great idea also! Nice to see some good ideas being explored for the Mk3 still. Subscribed!::salute::

The switch panel is done, I'm just debating how to offer it with regards to the appearance. My black spray paint hasn't given me the OEM look I want, but it's still a nice black. Perhaps it's good enough. :shrug:

Other Updates:

-I bought all the parts for the volt switch so I'll get that finished up soon. Should be available in green, red and blue LEDs. Hopefully white, but I can't find that at the moment.

-I got my first piece in a new material: Acrylate. Very precise and VERY good finish. I can barely see the layers. It's a bump in cost, but it may be worthwhile. Pics coming up soon!

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I'm interested in a gauge mount for the ashtray. Specifically the zietronix lcd gauge. I've been debating on learning to design in solidworks so that I can take advantage of 3D printers at my university.

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Slow progress recently as I have been focusing on my other vehicle related obsession, haha.

I did, however, get in some parts to build up the voltmeter. I should have pictures of a complete, installed prototype soon... within 3 weeks perhaps. I've got a big trip with the Land Cruiser at the end of July so I'm busy prototyping parts for that.

The new plastic I tried for the voltmeter is AWESOME. Very high detail and quality. It's not really noticeable that it was printed. No noticeable print lines. Very cool.

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Voltmeter Prototype installed and functional! I'll make some changes to the fitment and get another printed, but it's looking great so far.

Another part I'm working on is the Cargo Cover Holder Clips. These seem to be broken on most every mk3. My new part will have slightly less engagement on the locking tabs making it less likely to break in the future AND it will hold the cover better side to side which may help eliminate rattling on some cars. The OEM piece was not designed as well as I think it could have been. The dimensions just aren't quite right. I hope mine will fix that.

Best way to do it would be to make a mold out of something rigid. Fiberglass castings would probably work, but ideally you'd have something harder. It'd be really good to have a profile CNC'd in wood which you could then use as a mold for fiberglass or carbon fiber. If you're going through all that trouble, and the target audience is the mk4 crowd... I think carbon fiber is a no-brainer.

Anyways, the switch panel is officially "launched" now and is available for purchase. I only a couple on hand and I'm selling them without switches to start. If there's enough interest I'll buy some switches and bundle them in with the panel to make it a "one-stop-shop".

I'll get to work on the Profec B Ash Tray holder tonight! Maybe I can get a prototype printed over the next week or so. I needed to tune mine recently and it's aggravating having it just float below the single DIN stereo, barely visible. An ash tray mount would be sweet!

I'd love that as well, but I think that's a big challenge from a manufacturing perspective with super low volumes. I'd probably pursue a carbon fiber version with a very light aluminum frame reinforcement and probably actual grommets to mount it so it doesn't just tear through the holes.

Good ideas. My pricing on that kind of piece, however, would probably be double that Subaru example. Those sort of larger molded plastic pieces are cake when you're making a few thousand of them, but quite expensive in small batches. Maybe I could do some carbon work and make it economical/sexy.

One thing I don't like about those though, is that you then have to drive with the glove box open and look down and way over to your right to view anything, or you keep it closed and never really see the gauges or interact with the units.

I'm thinking my Ash Tray Boost Controller approach will have to be very modular. I should be able to create a system where you could swap out just the "faceplate" and accommodate a variety of parts. IE Different controllers, displays, maybe 52mm gauges...

Also, I've used the voltmeter for a bit now and it's awesome. I love it. Perfect mounting location, IMO. It's out of the way most the time, blocked by the steering wheel, but when you want to check it, it's just a slight nod of the head to view it. It's also interesting to see how the voltage changes at different RPMs and with accessories on or off. Another prototype of the voltmeter is one it's way, hopefully with better fitment around the factory trim. My first one works, but I can do better. Look for pricing around $60.

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I agree that it's not practical but here in California it's illegal to operate a vehicle on the roads with a wideband gauge let alone boost controller or anything else. Most of the time they don't care but it just takes that 1 cop that has something to prove and bammm your sol. The glove box method conceals them well with a lockable option.

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I agree that it's not practical but here in California it's illegal to operate a vehicle on the roads with a wideband gauge let alone boost controller or anything else. Most of the time they don't care but it just takes that 1 cop that has something to prove and bammm your sol. The glove box method conceals them well with a lockable option.

I also have switches for the Stealth Switch which will be included in future sales - with a modest price increase. I have two single pole single throw switches (one black, one red) and one double pole, double throw switch (black).

Cargo Clips should be added to the site soon. They are 100% done and ready for sale, just need to update the site.

I'm having a hard time dedicating time to new parts at this time. The Greddy Profec ash tray holder is on hold. It will not be as easy as I hoped. I'm still planning on expanding my catalog soon, but progress may be a little slow for a while.

Turbo Swapper

Very cool projects. I have my own 3d printer, and have made a few bits and pieces. My build materials are limited, no titanium for me, but I've been able to make a few bits useful to me. I want to make an ashtray replacement part to hold some of the electronics displays in the car. I've also considered a DIN plate that can fit under a single DIN radio.

Personally not interested in selling pieces, but may well be interested in some high quality pieces in better materials and tolerances than my printer will do.

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Very cool projects. I have my own 3d printer, and have made a few bits and pieces. My build materials are limited, no titanium for me, but I've been able to make a few bits useful to me. I want to make an ashtray replacement part to hold some of the electronics displays in the car. I've also considered a DIN plate that can fit under a single DIN radio.

Personally not interested in selling pieces, but may well be interested in some high quality pieces in better materials and tolerances than my printer will do.

Cool! What printer do you have? Any idea on its limitations? I've been poking around at the various DIY options, but it still looks like the entry price for a system to make reliable, small features (<1mm) is a few $k.

If nothing else though, it would be really neat to prototype quickly at home with your own printer.

A HG job took HOW long??

It's not really that expensive for small machines. Something like a Printrbot will get you going, and the parts you can make on those machines are pretty detailed. http://printrbot.com/

If you buy complete kits, it can be expensive, but if you do a lot of the legwork yourself on sourcing parts, you can save a bunch of money. Read up on Reprap, specifically the Prusa if you want to get into 3d printed fairly cheaply. Or maybe a delta printer like this: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit . With the flood of parts from China, costs have come down a lot. Of course, quality will vary.

But you can't really compare the desktop machines to something like Shapeways. They use high quality commercial machines with different processes than desktop machines. I like the idea of using a desktop machine to prototype parts, then once you know your design is good, get it printed on a commercial machine, or get the parts machined on a CNC mill.

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Wow. Holy crap. I had no idea you could get a functional printer for $220. That's... incredible. I thought the Dremel printer for a little under a grand was cheap. Jeez. I wouldn't expect the quality to be worthwhile, but for that little it'd be great for simple prototyping. Although, for me a lot of the prototyping is me figuring out if I like .005" clearance between two parts or if I maybe like .008". For instance, in one part I make and sell I'm capturing a thin profile M2 nut. The walls need to be very consistent or it just doesn't work. I'd love to see how those handle some of my more detailed features like that. The SVM in my post above has some very thin walls as well, down to .030" so the .4mm nozzle size on that cheapy would be a problem.

Very neat though. That's almost like a harbor freight tool purchase at that point, haha.

I've been looking at the Markforged stuff for a while, but the entry level machine is still over $5k. I can get a desktop CNC for that kind of money... That being said, the markforged can do carbon fiber reinforced parts with strength near that of aluminum.

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Wow, some good work there mate, gna sub to your youtube page, ive got a clone of a clone, CTC dual extruder thats been heavily modified over the years, have also printed out a few bits for previous cars and my current Aristo (jzs147 gs300), not anything fancy, but functional http://www.thingiverse.com/woggin/designs

the centre caps on my starlet gt by far my fave! (the airbox lower worked awesome)

I am currently working on replicating the 2.5 badges on the front of the supra becoz mine didnt have any.

ive only played with ABS, PLA and TPU/TPE, would love to use some nylon, but havent done much printing lately, more designing than printing! (ive got a few badges to go up to thingiverse too soon)

looking forward to your future products! wish i had the time/money for an expensive resin or laser printer, although, at 100 micron layer height the quality is pretty dam good if i keep it under 40mm/sec

A HG job took HOW long??

Those cheap machines are firmly in the hobby department (FDM - fused deposition modeling, printing primarily ABS and PLA) at the moment. With some tuning, they can get into pretty small features, but not as small as you mention. Markforged is definitely a commercial-type machine. Shapeways uses different types of machines, they can print more engineering materials, with high detail.

There are huge communities of people online working to make hobby-priced machines with the capability of the current commercial machines. Even 10 years ago, that $220 printer would cost $10k+. We had one in my engineering classes 10 years ago that cost $25k and can't do what my $500 machine can do now. The recent advances in cheap computing have really sped up development of these machines. There have been Kickstarters for machines that cure UV resin with laser or projected light. Those machines 10 years ago were $100k+, now you can get one for $2k.