Here's my shifter cover. Rather than incorporate a neutral safety switch, modify the detent on the factory TF727 transmission shifter, I bought a B&M megashifter PN# 80690 to use. I didn't like the shifter cover that B&M sends, so I made my own mount and cover out of 11 gauge CS diamond plate I had on hand. I incorporated a Behemoth T case cable shifter with it. Building my own keeps the shifter low. It also makes shifter cable routing a challenge. I've destroyed one cable so far. Cable routing out of the shifter hosing is important. You need plenty of room and no binding. I had to enlarge teh exit hole for the cable after this was built. The cable eye bronze sleeve was hitting it and broke the cable wire in two. Lessons learned, again.

Note, I also have a Moroso toggle switch panel. All switches are wired to and through relays under the cowl driver side for future use- electric fan override, auxiliary lights, etc. Currently no hot.

I started this bumper years ago but never finished. I built out enough to mount the winch, easier to put the rig on a trailer!

Middle section is 1/4" plate, reinforced with same. 1/2" plate for winch mount, added roller fairlead bracket, welded down. Wings are built out of 11 gauge. Push bar is built out of 1 1/4" SCH40CS piping. all scrap, had all of it on hand. Mostly MIG weld, some stick.

Fits in a parking garage with a 6'8" clearance! Still sitting on 35s, but new shoes for the winter. Here's some pics.

Also, in the effort of adding a head unit/ tablet to my outfit, I started some sound proofing. I decided to go the peel and seal program with the foil bubble wrap insulation you get at the hardware store. I've done the doors. Seems to make a bit of difference. I think I'll just go to quiter mufflers at some point. I also added a foil backed under hood mat, 3/4" thick I bought off of A zon. Seems to help some. I have about $100 invested in this so far. Not really money wasted. Doors have a more solid feel when they shut, windows don't rattle in the doors as much, keeps out the drafts from the hinges, lock cylinders, etc. Feels warmer this time of year. I'll put up picks over the next few days of it.

Noticed none of these pics have the finished front bumper in them... I'll put up some more as time goes on.

So I'm using my Traveler as a daily driver now. Not a good idefa in NE, but it's what I've got. I resent buying another vehicle and let this sit idle.

Current problems-
Autometer Phantom II transmission gauge, electric- never worked. Working through some issues with Autometer to rectify this. Gauge tests good with their procedure. Wiring to gauge is good. Sender is the focus now. They dropped one in the mail that they tested good to try. I'm open to suggestions from you folks.

Gas tank- I have an old 33GAL steel aftermarket unit in there. With the daily driver duties and excessive pothole count here in New ENgland, all the rust scale inside the tank is breaking loose and gumming up my filters, lines, pump, carb, etc. I change the filters onece a week now. Been doing this for a month in hopes that at some point, the rust scale will finally all be cycled through. Means to an end. The only shop I can find to hot tank my gas tank wants $450 to do it. That's just to clean it. I'm not interested in lining it. I can buy all the stainless in the world and build one myself for that price plus a $100.

Mystery blown fuse on the headlight circuit- Happens when I hit a good bump very rarely, but almost instantly when using the high beams. My parking lights are tied into the same headlight switch of course, and the sidemarkers on this circuit pigtails tend to corrode quickly. I think this may be the issue. I've traced the wiring and done continuity testing, wiring is good. Maybe more grounds and replace front sidemarker light pigtails as these are the ones that work intermittently and corrode. I;m not running any inner fenders on the front. Using lots of dielectric grease.

4L60- Hunts some around 2100rpm for 60 - 65mph. Might be an adjustment in the TV cable. Yes, still using the Lokar TV cable. Seems to be fine, but haven't fooled with it for adjustment. It could be a cable adjustment (need a pressure gauge for this), maybe just my gearing/ engine combo. Slightest uphill at 65mph it's down shifting. Maybe I'm too used to newer vehicles and their ODs. Transmission is working great though. Still haven't fisxed leak at transfer case to transmission connection. Gummed up with RTV for now and it's fine.

Cooling Fan Shroud- I need to refab it. Long story: I went through a no start issue last summer. Sharp right turns under load caused the fan to hit the shroud. Then, I had a no start issue. Try to start truck, starter would just grind on the flywheel. Replaced starter with one I had laying around. Same issue. Replaced motor mounts with Solid ones using a GM bushing. Removed shroud. Used a rebuilt NAPA starter. Good to go. Haven't reinstalled shroud yet. Need to increase the opening diameter for another 3/8" of clearance for the cooling fan to keep it from hitting under stress.

Parking Brake- still need to remove the TSM output parking brake and swap to another more traditional parking brake setup. I have a GM 14 bolt C&C rear converted to discs with 3/4T 4wd chevy front calipers in use. Thinking the El DOrado caliper on both sides with new cables.

Newest problem Oil Leak- Developed an oil leak from the back of the motor near the bottom... Will evaluate tonight. Appears to be the rear main seal again. I noticed a week ago some oil residue around the PCV valve on the valley pan towards the back of the motor. Didn't think anything of it. Last week, I noticed the smell of burning oil, then leaking in the driveway while running when warmed up. Drove it two days like this. Cleaning it up tonight to see where the hell the hell is coming from. In an effort to diagnose, I removed the PCV, plugged the vac hos from it to the carb, removed the spark arrestor on the driver valve cover. No difference. Bought a new PCV, cleaning up the spark arrestor, and reinstalling the vacuum line, then cleaning up the mess to see where the heck it's coming from then go from there. This is a major issue. My fault I guess. I'm running around in winter with no flywheel cover in New England, and neglected to notice the mess on the valley pan. I think this stems from a failed PCV. Could have been road debris, but I don't think so. Seal had less than 6K miles on it if that's what's leaking.

Thanks! Recently completed my front bumper. Has tow points, incorporates the Warn winch, nothing fancy. Here's some pictures. Mostly made of 11 gauge plate/ sheet, middle of it is made of 1/4" with a 3/8" plate for the winch mount.

Here's the winch and bumper in action! Got my 28 horse Cub Cadet 7260 thoroughly stuck. Had to double line the cable to get enough power to drag it out. Video doesn't do the pull justice. Front wheels of the tractor were buried in dirt. Couldn't see the top of them.

So I heard the start of what sounded like an exhaust leak weeks ago. Got to work, look at the header to exhaust connection, and the collector had rotted off the end of the 4 header tubes at the collector flange! Lesson- don't wrap your headers unless you absolutely need to. Here's some pics.

Instead of replacing, I decided to patch and weld up what I had. I cut it apart at the header flange, cleaned best I could, then back welded the tubes individually to the collector flange, patched a hole in one tube, then welded it all back together. Took about two hours.

Not sure how long the rest of this header will last. The tubes are getting pretty thin. I've since bought factory OE replacement cast iron manifolds as replacements. May use them, may not. Ideally, I'd like to build a set of SS headers. We'll see. THis got me back on the road.

My front axle WMS currently is around 60 1/2" with the Scout D44 and Chevy brake and hub. My rear axle is at 63 1/2" WMS GM C&C 14 bolt.

I'm thinking of not shortening the front D60. I believe it will be at 69" WMS once assembled. A few inches wider each side compared to the rear. It's good to be wider on the front than the rear anyway. Helps outfits track better in my experience.

I run 17x9 8 lug wheels with 4 3/4" backspacing. I think it will be fine. Save on axle shaft cost anyways.

I plan to remove the front D44 axle, unbolt the reverse shackles and set them aside, cut off the old front reverse shackle 2" wide fangs and clean everything up. I'm going to cut off all the bracketry on the D6, bolt up the Jeep front leafs, and roll it under there to see what I've got.

I guess the only unknown is what I'll need to button up the steering- tie rod and drag link (I'm currently using a Wagoneer pitman arm) and what do I do about a driveshaft.

Is a front CV driveline best or stick with a u joint shaft? I run a NP241C and TH4L60 behind my 345. NP241C has a 4 bolt drive flange on it (factory 91 Chevy Blazer I think).