Now that Pen Thai's sister-restaurant Chantanee is closed (soon to re-open in swankier Bellevue digs) it's slammed more than usual here in charming old-town Bothell. I can certainly see why. The contemporary copper-toned design is as appealing as what's on the plate, and Pen offers everything from an expansive wine list to fancy cocktails to my finger-food favorite miang kum -- bits and bites of lime, coconut, dried shrimp, fresh ginger among them, meant to be wrapped in spinach leaves for a festival of flavors:

Sure, you may go on about the signature crispy garlic chicken or the emerald curry with pork, but what about the crisp, moist "Golden Duck" sizzled and sauced tableside -- just like at one of those old-school French restaurants?

And howzabout the classic Thai beef salad with its perfectly charred edges?