Contact Methods

The 6012 is 50/40 watts High/low beam.
The 6014 is 60/50 watts high/low beam.
The 6012 is difficult to find any more. The 6014 was used as a replacement for the 6012 over the years and can still be found.
The H6024 is the Halogen replacement for the 6014 and is rated at 65/35 watts.
If your headlight wiring/conections/switches are in good condition, you should have no problem using any of these with stock wiring.
Be carful when buying the H6024. some bulbs are rated at a higher wattage than the H6024 standard.
In all cases, your headlights will be brighter and your light switch will last longer and run cooler if you add relays to power the headlights.
Steve.

The 19T pinion is Nissan part number 32703-78103 and is $13.76 at Pinnacle Nissan http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=49.
Or you can get the sleeve and pinion assembly 32702-58S19 for $21.61.
Order on-line or Call 1-888-998-9800 - Jorge Rios - Internet Parts
Steve.

OK, so I have a 1972 240Z with the 240SX 5 speed and a 3.54 R180 out of an automatic car. Itâ€™s ok, but with an almost stock engine (Fully rebuilt .020 over, mild performance cam, headers with 2-1/4â€ exhaust), I want a lower rear gear to improve acceleration. So I get an open 3.90 R200, the R200 mustache bar, and a set of rebuilt 300ZXT CV half-shafts. Iâ€™ve read about the potential for the shafts being too long and binding so I decide to design my own stub axle conversion flanges to minimize the length. I end up with a design that is about 1/8"-1/4" shorter per side (a guess looking at the pictures) than the ones from Modern Motorsports (and cost me less than $100/pair to have made at the local machine shop). Now with all the old parts out, I put in the mustache bar, assemble the stub axles with their new adapter flanges and go to put in the R200 with the front mount reversed like Iâ€™ve read in the forums and tech pages; but the front mount doesnâ€™t line up. OK, letâ€™s try it with the mount in the stock directionâ€¦ perfect fit! The CV axles snap into the differential and fit my adapter flanges with no interference. I didnâ€™t have to disassemble my rear suspension or even compress the CV cage springs. Now I know from my reading that the old limiter strap will not work with the R200â€¦but wait a minute; it looks like everything lines up pretty close. Sure enough, it bolts back in the stock position and fits perfectly over the smooth part of the differential between the front differential mounting bolt bosses. With gear lube back in the transmission after changing to the white speedometer pinion for the 3.90 gears, itâ€™s time for a test drive. Everything works great. I like the new gearing and take it up to over 100 mph with no noises or vibration. A few hours later, I finally get home; the sweet smell of success! I know this swap has been performed by 100â€™s of people before but I was surprised by the way the front mount went in and the fact that I was able to use the stock limiter strap with no modifications so I wanted to share this experience.
My adapter flanges: I started with an oversize circular 3/8â€ thick mild steel plate and milled a rectangle out of the center to be a precise interference fit with the outside of the original flange and to a depth of the original flange (about .230â€ deep). Next, the plate was heated so the old flange could be inserted. After the plate cooled, shrink fitting tight onto the old flange, they were welded on the back side. Next the assembly was chucked up in a lathe and turned down to the diameter of the CV flange ears and a thickness of about .330â€. Finally, the center was machined out to accept the raised alignment ring on the CV housing to a depth of about .100â€ and the matching bolt holes were drilled. This puts the alignment ring and CV end cap almost in contact with the mating surface of the original flange. Iâ€™m not an engineer, but I figured the .330â€ thickness of the mild steel would be close in strength to the .230â€ thickness original forging. Also, I shrunk fit the new flange so the weld would not be stressed by the driving torque and only have to hold the two pieces together.
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Adaptrs.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Assy.jpg
After tightening the stub axle nuts, I cut/ground down the ends of the stub axles so they only protruded about 1/16â€ through the nuts. This was necessary to keep the CV end plate from hitting the ends of the stub axles when installed.
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/GrndStub.jpg
The R200 and 300ZXT half-shafts:
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/R200.jpg
The R180 with the front mount still on it in the stock orientation:
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/180MNT.jpg
The R200 installed with the front mount in the stock orientation:
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Mount.jpg
The installed CV half-shafts:
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/StubRT.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/StubLFT.jpg
The stock R180 limiter strap installed in the stock position over the R200:
http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Strap.jpg
My 1972 240Z restoration picture page:
http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/240Z.htm
This was an easy swap! Do it!
Steve.

When I bought bearings and seals from http://www.zraceproducts.com/, they said they had a custom aluminum R200 mustache bar. If I remember correctly, they wanted about $100 for it. I already had the bar so I didn't buy one. The description sounded good. They said it was similar to this one http://www.newoldstockmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=57 or this one http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html without the fancy relieved areas.
Steve.

I installed stainless steel louvers in my '72. I like the way they look. I think they sort of resemble the the Jag XKE. They really work well letting the hot air out of the engine compartment. I bought them here:
http://www.hoodlouvers.com/index.html
Pictures:
http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/DSC_1499.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/DSC_1507.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/DSC_1514.JPG
My other 240Z pictures:
http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/240Z.htm
Steve.

Hi Terry,
I went through the same thing restoring my 1972 240Z. I had 3 sets of wiper linkage and all had broken springs. It's been a few years, but I came to the conclusion this was related to the way the wipers park at a lower position when the mechanism is reversed. The cam action of this joint allows the different travel between forward and reverse. I decided the spring was to take the slop out of the assembly (eccessive lash?) to prevent clunkyness when reversing direction. At the time, I wanted to find an intact spring or original design drawing to have it reproduced but could not find any. I cut new felt washers from 1/8 felt I bought from McMaster-Carr, greased everything up, and put it back together without the spring. The good news is that mine have worked just fine for several years and once continuously for about 4 hours in a driving rain storm. I have no noises or clunks and my wipers reverse and park perfectly every time. My car: http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/240Z.htm
Steve.

Well I dug into my archives and came up with this:
The critical dimension for the throw out bearing sleeve is the distance between the surface that the fork contacts and the surface that the throw-out bearing seats on when pressed onto the sleeve. I can't guarrantee this information is 100% accurate, but it is consistant with my personal experience with Z car clutches. This list was compiled by Carl Beck of zhome.com.
For the 225mm clutch disc (2 seat coupe) -
up to 8-'71 240, 16mm, 30501-U0200
9-'71 to 11-'74 240 and 260, 18mm, 30501-S0200
from 12-'74 280 and 280ZX, 28mm, 30501-N1600
For the 240mm clutch disc (2+2) -
all 240mm/2+2, 24mm, 30501-0H600
As I mentioned before, the distance that is changing on the pressure plate is the height from the flywheel up to the release fingers on the pressure plate that the throw-out bearing presses on. Because the pivot for the clutch fork is closer to the throw-out bearing, this difference is multiplied out at the slave cylinder.
Another problem is that it seems to be common to recieve a 280Z clutch set when a 240/260Z clutch is ordered. I bought a Clutch Masters clutch for my 240Z that even had a different part number than the 280Z, yet I still needed the longer 280Z sleeve.
Hope this helps.

Ok, now that I've posted in haste, I would like to add that if Tattoo Deuce's problem is the wrong Throw-out bearing collar, he obviously needs a longer one. I'm a little worried that the zparts.com article I reffered to may not be entirerly accurate. I have other information that says the 240Z collar is the shortest one with the 280Z being longer. I will look through my notes, do some more research, and post what I find.

The pressure plates used in the clutches varied in height from the flywheel to the throw-out bearing contact point. Because of this, there are several different length throw-out bearing sleeves/collars (the part that holds the throw-out bearing. The condition you describe can result from having for example, the shorter 280Z collar in combination with a 240Z pressure plate. Take a look at this: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

I have a set of 14x7 aluminum slotted wheels like the ones that were dealer installed in the '70s. They look like crap and will need to be totally cleaned up, sanded, polished, etc. I have a set off brand new center caps and emblems for them also. If you want the wheels you can have them free and the caps for less than what I paid for them (they sell for about $35-$40 a set so I,ll give them to you for say $20). I live near Knoxville Tennessee so it would be a nice day cruise for you to come up and get them. Let me know if you or anyone else wants them. I'm not really interested in the hassel of shipping them. Steve.

Other than the thicker gears and the improved synchronizers, the other thing that is obviously different is the shifting mechanism. In addition to the ball and socket plate mounted shifter and the larger 1st-2nd shift rod, the shift forks are massive aluminum castings that engage the synchros a full 180 degrees and guide on the adjacent shift rods. The Rev-5th fork has been modified with an elaborate support/guide bracket assembly. All of this probably minimizes flex and binding in addition to increasing strength.