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I don't know. But it might be that the colours of the sky pretty much implies that the sun is just beyond the upper left tip of the drawing. If you make the shadows much longer it might feel more right.

Maybe you could use a ruler set from the point where the sun should be? I think you should just use it for one shadow though and then use that shadow as a guide for the rest. I think that because of the fact that the sun is one whole AU away and like, enormous, normal perspective tricks go a bit wonky when you draw shadows.

Right on target with this one. Looks a whole lot like Taos, even down to the colors in the sky, which is really what caught my breath. All you need are a few res dogs following grandma to get the morning bread hahaha. I love it, keep going

Rule of thumb for shadows in order of brightness (assuming the same local color): Light side, dark side, cast shadow. Then there's subtleties in all of those, like bounced light and so on, but that's generally it.

Remember that for the cast shadows, when the shadow falls over more than one local colored surface (like the wall and the dirt ground), that it's the amount of relative darkness that is consistent.

So if it were cast over a brown and white checkerboard, that both would darken proportionally, and the brown in shadow would still be darker by the same degree as the white would darken (more or less).

One exception might be where you opt to go black for all shadows if it serves the picture to go extreme contrast or it's a dark pic and black is your only way to go.

Colors in the shadows is going to be tough to have influenced by the sky because the sky is so multicolored. Were it a blue sky it would take on a blueish cast. But going cool in the shadows it generally how it goes.

I'm sure there are countless tutorials on shadowing going back to creating volume using a sphere, a cone, a cube and a cylinder. They teach that stuff because it fairly universally applies.