Move max distance you can and measure how long they actually moved, then recalculate the steps.IE if you have 100 steps/mm and you set it to move 10mm and it only moved 8 then you need more steps/mm(100/8)*10 = new steps/mm

Np, You can find my facebook group here, if you like. It's a bit easier talking there :) https://www.facebook.com/betrue3d/Cheers

I cant remember how I came to it, but I think I read somehwere that a huge amount of steps was needed, so I entered a very high number, but you calculate it the same way. It's the drive from a floppy drive, hence the difference.Ie start with 6000 or something and see :)

The Micro SD is not meant to store .gcode files on an print, unless you upload files to it through terminal or lan, which are rather flaky on this.You use SD card reader in TFT or similar or print via USB.

Heya LarryThanks.1) Yes, if they have same voltage.2) You copy the setup for the fan you use but just specify the new pin. If you only have one extruder as most people, the extruder 2 pin is free P2.63) http://smoothieware.org/3d-printer-guide#using-two-steppers-motor-on-a-single-driverHope it helps :)

If you want access to your network from some other network, you always need to setup your router to portforward the necesary ports as well as setup firewall in your router (not all routers announce them as seperate functions).Everything can be viewed remotely this way. Always. Just a matter of configuring the network.MAC: you might need mac versions of the programs, but don't see why not.Just keep in mind that this instructables contains ALL steps, and you might not need all steps for your particular setup.Maybe take a look at Astroprint. I like that way more than OctoPrint :)

The things you mention are not electronic words or anything.. have you tried googling the words?Protrusion = Something that protudes from something.Washers = round flat metal discs with hole in the middle for your screw.Mount holes = the holes you use to mount/attach the partsYou really just need to make prepare the moving part so you can attach things to it. Flatten/cut away as necessary, and drill holes you might need.Try look in here, as they made a nice manual. You can use their info even though you don't print the parts as they do.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902826

When you say internet, do you mean your local wireless network?You don't have to have it on internet. I don't know how you woud controll it without having it on your local network.You can't use USB or SD in your printer? That would be the best option if you don't use the remote options in Octoprint in any case.

Have you tried using Google?https://www.google.dk/search?q=3d+printer+solid+state+relay&oq=3D+printer+solid+stateBut here's a thread:http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9004/sd4-heatbed-installation/I'm a bit confused as you say the hotbed output gives 110VAC... the hotebed does not provide any output. You can say how much Wattage it is rated at and what voltage it needs. This will give you the amperage your PSU at least needs to be + 20%Why do you need 5v to activate it the bed/SSR? It's easier just to use the bed output.Hope it helps.Cheers

For the heater problem you propably need to define your heater 2 with the correct pins - meaning other pins than you use for heater 1.After you have defined the pins correctly, you should do the mandatory PID tuning of the heater :)

I'm actually not sure, but I have been asked this before.I personally used an external driver board and driver connected to the pins on the driver I wanted to "clone". This way they are given the exact same instructions.

Without jumpers means you run without microstepping.If you insert all 3 jumpers it might not move at all at untill you modify steps/mm since it means 1/16 microstepping. If you use the jumpers and modify the steps you are going to get a much smoother and quieter result. The torque is also going to be a tad less, but nothing you should be able to notice on a 3D printer.What is your steps/mm now?

Hello entropy,You just solder all pins on. Regardless of jumpersettings.Jumpers depends on multistepping settings you want to achieve. I've corrected the jumper table. It had lost it formating for some reason.I recommend having all 3 jumpers in place to use highest microstepping.CNC people are going to say you should run wiht lowest multistepping as possible for greatest power, but 3D printer is not a CNC, and we want the smoother running -> lower noice while the power is still plenty for any 3D Printer.jumper Yes/No step size1 2 3no no no full stepyes no no half stepno yes no 1/4 stepyes yes no 1/8 stepyes yes yes 1/16 step

Here are a couple of explanatatory pages:https://www.circuitspecialists.com/blog/unipolar-stepper-motor-vs-bipolar-stepper-motors/andhttps://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-bipolar-unipolar-stepper-motorBut really, you just want bipolar motors.I don't know what "idk" means. We are from many different countries, so using abbreviations often ruins the understanding between us. Same with "plz", which _I_ know means please, but again... abbreviations are bad, especially made up ones :) I don't know what you mean with "chopping constant durrent drive"?Id say that you should find a different motor, if it doesn't work using an a4988 driver :)

Nice find! I havn't had this issue myself, so quite odd. Your firmware is much newer than when I used Marlin though, so it might have changed.If you have the energy to do so, you should report it on the Github site for Marlin.

Have you tried with different Gcode files? Made sure the baudrate is the same on display and in firmware? (It must be since you can move it, but just to be sure).Try updating firmware on both.The MKS Base 1.5 is not smoothieware but normal 8bit marlinhttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-Printer-Control-motherboard-MKS-BASE-V1-0-compatible-RAMPS-1-4-Printer-Control-Reprap-MendelPrusa/1047297_2031109769.htmlNewest 32bit Smoothiewaere is MKS Sbase 1,3 https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3Dpriter-control-board-MKS-SBase-V1-0-32-s-Motherboard-compatible-Smoothieware-open-source-firmware-support/1047297_32384368763.htmlNotice how smoothieware is Sbase, and the other is BaseRegards,MortenDenmark

Hello CharleWThank you for your feedback. In order to use the LCD12864 you need to scroll down in the configuration.h file and uncomment the:REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLERIt is not:REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLERYou can get more info on your LCD here:http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_ControllerHope it helps

Heya mshievitz. It's stable now? Asking as I played a bit with it (not overly much), but had some issues with the fans I use to cool the printed objects.Can't rule out wheter it was just the fans though :)Nice input :)

Hello HIM,I do not own an MKS Gen 1,4 board.You are welcome to contact MKS and ask for it, as they might want me to make an instructables, if enough people are asking for it.The Gen 1,4 is working as Ramps 1.4 but with a bit different layout.

It's much cheaper to buy directly from the manufacturer. Even though you have to pay import taxes and vat etc.But we have a few sellers in Denmark. I don't know about their shipping policy or pricing though.http://3deksperten.dk/mks-sbase-v1-3-controller-board-mainboard-32bit.htmlRegards,Morten

I have no experience using smoothieware on corexy, but I guess it should work fine.I do not know if second homing works differently on CoreXY. Is it important for you it moves out and back in?Firmware from makerbase.com is just a really old version of the original firmware, so I'll not recommend using that.I'll recommend you go back to new firmware and check your endstops are working.Reason for the "noise from steppers untill reset" is because they are powered on. You can issue the Gcode M18 http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M18:_Disable_all_stepper_motors to turn motors off. This will remove the noise and make steppers easy to move.You should not move the steppers/axes manually with motors engaged. Worst case you can ruin the drivers on the controller board.

Win_install.cmd is only if you want to compile your own firmware - we don't want to do that. At least not in my instructables, where we use the pre-compiled firmware.bin filesNot entirely sure what you mean about config file, but I think you have misunderstodd how the firmware works.1) You do not want/need to use the win_install.cmd to compile your own firmware.2) You copy over the firmware.bin file from smoothiewares github (I link directly to it)3) You copy over your config.txt file4) You power off - including remove USB.5) Reconnect USB and the card flashes (reads) the firmware to the card.6) The firmware.bin file is automatically renamed firmware.curRegarding 12v. Might be because your 5v through USB isn't high enough amperage.

Edited the section regarding drivers and firmware in an attempt to make it more clear to use MKS drivers and firmware from Smoothieware.I removed some links directed at MKS, as they removed the info I linked to. They have changed some on their Github, but I'm trying to find out why and what. (asking them)Remember the "nice comment policy" people. In the past days we have had an unfortunate individual trolling in here, which is rather sad all considering.

I'm not attacking Smoothieware. I'm PROMOTING smoothieware. FOR FREE.What I am doing is helping people for free. Doing your work. For Free. I'm stating facts about the unfriendly tone of your Google groups, as thousands of people see them (gathered from all the countless messages I recieve).It's ok you view it differently, since you have promoted that kind of environment.Just please do not come over here, and ruin the good mood.In this forum, we try to HELP each other. Not Critize each other.

Regarding your "document".. I can put together an endless list of pointless attacks you have made, here, on your own foras, github and especially on the reprap forums.. but I try to focus on furthering the community, not hammering anyone.Yes, I can get carried away now and then, I am humand, and this is not my work, so my work cap is not on... but I do not go search for people to annoy.. like you do here.Can't you see how bad it is you come here like this Arthur? I'm freaking trying to promote Smoothieware, but you, as the people who has most to gain, work very actively to destroy it by being so darned negative.

You know you can save as draft and then publish it all when you are done?Reprap.me, the maker of the Original Diamond Hotend, are working on a 5way Diamond Hotend now. Just to answer @Tengo10Heatsinks not being properly prepared on this photo, but the Diamond tip is :)

I have crimped my own motor wires. I usually start using a needle-clamp (I think it's called that. I'm danish). I then use a very cheap crimp tool I bought in Biltema (Scandinavian store). But it's the same as any cheap crimp tool you can buy anywhere. Sometimes tweak it with my needle-plier after crimping to make it fit into the plugs.

Hello Googliola. I believe you can run must of the gpio pins as pwn though not as true "hpwm" setting? Just a thought?I really do not know about the on off stuff. I always turn my printer physically on/off, and it sounds like you are more at home with the configuration than me ?I'm sure you can ask on smoothies google groups on how to use it. They might have an idea. Just don't start out with "hi, I'm using MKS Sbase board..." ?

problem is that for most people it is much easier to setup using a graphical interface.If all else fails, go check out Astroprint. I vastly prefer that one over Octoprint as well, since it was made for normal people, and with focus on intuitive usage and not geekstuff over useability like Octoprint.

Hello Kanataa.You are correct, I do have an Ultimaker where it homes to the bottom, meaning to MAX.The way to fault find is:1) Connect using Pronterface 2) Check endstop status by issuing M119. Correct firmware if necessary.3) Check your Z moves the desired direction when you hit the move buttons. + = bed moves away from nozzle.4) Adjust firmware if needed to correct direction of move.5) Be ready to turn off power and then hit Z-home - G28 Z06) If it moves the wrong way, check that Z-min is 0 and Z max is 200 (or what your max is)7) try again.I have written 2 Instructables about <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-Configurati... target="_blank">Motion Configuration</a> and <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endsto... tar...

Hello Kanataa.You are correct, I do have an Ultimaker where it homes to the bottom, meaning to MAX.The way to fault find is:1) Connect using Pronterface 2) Check endstop status by issuing M119. Correct firmware if necessary.3) Check your Z moves the desired direction when you hit the move buttons. + = bed moves away from nozzle.4) Adjust firmware if needed to correct direction of move.5) Be ready to turn off power and then hit Z-home - G28 Z06) If it moves the wrong way, check that Z-min is 0 and Z max is 200 (or what your max is)7) try again.I have written 2 Instructables about <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-Configurati... target="_blank">Motion Configuration</a> and <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endsto... target="_blank">Configuring endstops</a> which you might find helpful.You can ofcourse also write here :)

Thank you for your nice words.I'm sorry I really don't have any ideas other than Googling, and I think it's better you do your own googling :)If you have the option to hook up the pi to a monitor and keyboard it will make it easier for you?Cheers,Morten

I'd try to contact the seller. I am not MKS or even an affiliate. I just write Instructables for topics I find interesting :)

Ok. That might be nice for some people :)I havn't seen any officially supported firmwares on the smoothieboard platform. I'm just personally loath to get firmware with only partial support.I used Marlin for a long time and never was a fan. Just too messy, and the whole compile procedure alone was enough for me to dump it :)I make lots of changes all the time though, which most people don't do.I'm going to jump on the Duet Wifi soon. Just waiting to recieve the Duex5 expansion board to go with Diamond hotend 5way prototype <wink>

Awesome info HaydnH.It can't be fixed by setting segment size to very small in firmware? (I havn't read up on it)

Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I've been rather busy with my new Extruder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914288 , so havn't had time to look it up myself.I must admit I'm totally at a loss when people say "pull-up" but I know you can shift a jumper to decide wheter the voltage on endstops are 3.3 or 5v

If it is S3D I think you should contact them. It is a paid commercial product so they might be able to help some.I would test using Cura or other slizer first though. Cura 2.3 have a lot of awesome changes from previous versions, so you might be surprised :)

Firstly: Thank you for interest and feedback. Always nice hearing from people using the instructables. :)Could you copy/paste your section with the temperature settings from your config file please?I would like to see the pin-assignments for the sensors.Which client program do you use for issuing Gcodes? I prefer Pronterface as it loads really fast, so nice for troubleshooting.

I'm just using the config I list through my instructables. I use Cura 2.3 and no custom settings really.

Shouldn't get too hot with fan on. I have mine under my cabinet case and it's just passively cooled with some air getting through 1cm gap under the casing.I have 0.85v on my XY, so yours shouldn't get too hot.. tried with different prints over 2 hours?

No. You can only use Smoothieware on it, but if it freezes over 1-2 hours and it's doing it for more than just 1 file, I bet it is due to overheating.Have you tried measuring heat off the drivers or around the board? What is your voltage on drivers?Maybe the controller is placed inside the printer and gets hot?

If my previous reply (from today/just now) doesn't pan out.. or maybe just start by doing it: contact MKS and/or the seller about the issue.. if it's hardware issue you want to let them know as soon as possible.

Great. Glad it worked out :) I just googled it some and can see various people have experienced the same. Some from bad SD cards instead though.

Don't worry about pronterface yet.Firstly please answer the first question as I can't track down faults with no information.Also please try the SD formatter I linked to. Windows and other OSs tends to mess up cardsWhich 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtRegarding pronterface:Don't bother trying to connect untill you have the right files on the SD card as you just can't.Remember to specify the right COM port and BAUD rate.Does the Sbase show up as a com port when you connect it, and have you installed the windows drivers?

I don't understand the difference between "FIRMWARE.CUR" and "firmware.cur" aside from you using capital letters?You want to use the firmware from Smoothieware and not from MKS:https://github.com/Smoothieware/SmoothiewareI use nightly build (edge) but you might want to use stable untill you know it works for you.http://triffid-hunter.no-ip.info/Smoothie.html

Try using https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ to format the card.Which 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtHope it helps