The linkage connection would have to be removed and mounted to the other side, would probably have to weld it

Yes, if you can do that then you can make it work as the original linkage just fit through a hole in the plate and was welded. This is essentially an unbreakable game specific part so its unlikely that it will be restocked, so if the original is missing your options are severely limited.

Hello: I'm new here, and I'd like to ask a couple of questions please.
In preparation for installing a Color DMD (thanks, spblat), I got some power issues cleaned up (hopefully). I also wanted to clean all the optos in the game. However, in searching the ST:TNG operations manual, I don't see all of the optos listed in one place, and I couldn't find a list in a quick search of the forum. Does anyone know of a list of the most common optos that need cleaning in this game please? (Also, years ago, I used a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol to clean optos in other games before. Is that still the preferred approach?)
Also, I wanted to replace the five ribbon cables. Is there anything special about the pinball specific cables, or will generic ones work as long as the pin count and length are appropriate? (I think one of them has a ferrite device as well).
Many thanks in advance for your help!

The switch matrix (shown a few posts previously in this thread) will have a shaded box for each of the optos. Cleaning them with a q-tip and alcohol is fine, be sure to check or reflow the solder on the ones in the two left VUKs while you have them apart.

I've recently started making cannon wire harnesses using MIL-W-16878/4 Type E Stranded Wire. If you are unfamiliar with this type wire, it's the same wire that's you will find in military electronics. The wire insulation is Extruded Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and allows for use in high temperature environments and protects the wire against abrasion, chemicals, oils, solvents, and solder damage, and it's flame and moisture resistant. The conductor is 19 strands of 34 gauge silver plated copper, this makes the wire very flexible, low loss, and expensive.

I've actually place my soldering iron (@600F) directly on the PTFE insulation for several seconds and the insulation remained undamaged.

Well my Row short is killing me.. Replaced 57 switch Top Drop Target Cherry switch thinking that was it.. Still getting 57 Row short. WHT-VIO - GRN-BLK.. If I pull the green black all go to open. Other switches register when that green wire is off too. I'm stumped. Traced the green/blk wire and pulled the next connector in line but that didn't clear the short.

Am I understanding the matrix wrong? Poor Picard is getting pissed at me!

Strangely.. I just turned it back on to double check. Switch was open. Pushed target up to make sure it wasn't on. Everything connected and still open. Started lowering the deck and row short. That tells me a short in the wire from 57 to the head right?

Strangely.. I just turned it back on to double check. Switch was open. Pushed target up to make sure it wasn't on. Everything connected and still open. Started lowering the deck and row short. That tells me a short in the wire from 57 to the head right?

More than likely.

What you are seeing is column 5 is going low all the time (either open or shorted to ground), then when the drop target switch closes, row 7 stays low during every column and is seen as a row short. If you take a voltage measurement on Column 5 when you have the error, I'll bet you read nearly no voltage on it.

I'd start with the connector on the driver board, these are often toasted on this game and if it hasn't been fixed properly could be causing your issues. Did you just LED this game or did this happen after you were playing?

Finally got a chance to have a look at this and it didn't align with the pinout given in the manual?

IMG_20200110_175014 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200110_175034 (resized).jpg

I feel like the orange in 120-1 should be 120-2, the yellow in 120-2 should be 120-3 and The brown in 121-3 should be 121-1? That would explain why the insert and shields GI are swapped around at least, right?

Some of the others seem a bit out of place too? 120-7 and 120-8 should be 120-8 and 120-9? 121-9 should be 121-7?

Finally got a chance to have a look at this and it didn't align with the pinout given in the manual?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I feel like the orange in 120-1 should be 120-2, the yellow in 120-2 should be 120-3 and The brown in 121-3 should be 121-1? That would explain why the insert and shields GI are swapped around at least, right?
Some of the others seem a bit out of place too? 120-7 and 120-8 should be 120-8 and 120-9? 121-9 should be 121-7?

Mine is as per the manual (except white-green on J121 which is in 121-8 rather than 121-10 as indicated in the manual)

I feel like the orange in 120-1 should be 120-2, the yellow in 120-2 should be 120-3 and The brown in 121-3 should be 121-1?

Both your J120 and J121 are different from mine; I'm not 100% sure which one is correct though; but I would assume that you wouldn't want the same pin position populated on both J120 and J121; I mention this so you are aware that if decide to move one of them on J120, you should also consider moving the one using that connection point on J121 as well.

I've recently started making cannon wire harnesses using MIL-W-16878/4 Type E Stranded Wire. If you are unfamiliar with this type wire, it's the same wire that's you will find in military electronics. The wire insulation is Extruded Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and allows for use in high temperature environments and protects the wire against abrasion, chemicals, oils, solvents, and solder damage, and it's flame and moisture resistant. The conductor is 19 strands of 34 gauge silver plated copper, this makes the wire very flexible, low loss, and expensive.
I've actually place my soldering iron (@600F) directly on the PTFE insulation for several seconds and the insulation remained undamaged.
The upside, this cable should last forever.
The downside, this wire is 3x as expensive as standard 7/30 PVC coated tin plated copper wire.
The questions: Do you think this is overkill for the application? At $55/pair are these harnesses over priced?

If you could provide a bubble-envelope, no custums service to Europe, i'd be in for a set

So last night I turn on my STTNG for the first time after about 3 weeks (been busy with other things), and I get the dreaded "insert coin" message. Having been there on my LAH I pull out the translite right away, and of course, the nice copper heads from Duracell started leaking. Juts minimal, and except for the contact on the battery holder I am not seeing any damage. So of course, I think I got "lucky". Pull the board and cleaned it with vinegar and alcohol...still no damage on the board to be seen.....puhhh...
Board goes back in, reset all connectors, turn on,....error. Tilt switch stuck closed....what!?!?!?!
So I take another look....darn it. Battery must have leaked onto all J connectors. 3 of the 4 on the bottom clearly show corrosion.
So now my question, should I replace with crimped IDCs or keep it stock and use punch down? How far back should I cut the cable? Pretty much cut them right behind the IDCs for now.

Guys - check your batteries. I make it a point of swapping batteries at every TPF regardless of their age... that way; I know the likeliness of leakage is near zero. One day; maybe I'll covert to nvram.

Guys - check your batteries. I make it a point of swapping batteries at every TPF regardless of their age... that way; I know the likeliness of leakage is near zero. One day; maybe I'll covert to nvram.

I had just swapped them 9 months ago.....so I cannot blame myself for not paying attention to it....what's your take on punch vs crimp though.

I know I sound like a broken record on this, but why is anyone using Alkaline batteries? AA sized lithium batteries have been commercially available for over 30 years!

Now to answer your question...I use IDC punch downs because I like working with them better and have the correct tools for them; from a function standpoint use whatever you prefer as it makes no difference for these logic circuits.

I had just swapped them 9 months ago.....so I cannot blame myself for not paying attention to it....what's your take on punch vs crimp though.

Yikes, Duracells?
Strangely; my two Ballys ( Star TrekStar Trek: The Mirror Universe ) have remote battery packs; but my STNG and DEST does not. I think it comes down to not having the CPU board out of the games long enough to do a remote pack.

My take is crimp because I trust crimps more the Punch … my opinion differs form pin_guy … but to each his own.

Guys - check your batteries. I make it a point of swapping batteries at every TPF regardless of their age... that way; I know the likeliness of leakage is near zero. One day; maybe I'll covert to nvram.

Yikes, Duracells?
Strangely; my two Ballys ( Star TrekStar Trek: The Mirror Universe ) have remote battery packs; but my STNG and DEST does not. I think it comes down to not having the CPU board out of the games long enough to do a remote pack.
My take is crimp because I trust crimps more the Punch … my opinion differs form pin_guy … but to each his own.

Just read about this “Mirror Universe” retheme. This is so incredibly bad ass. Hat tip.

Pinside has a feature, whereby you can record when you change the battery on the machines in your collection and it'll send email reminders when they are due to be changed.

I use the pinside battery tracker too, but have also made a Google Sheets form to track the play of each machine and also include the date of battery change. I have never noticed a leakage issue with my lithium batteries and they are going strong after a couple years.

I use the pinside battery tracker too, but have also made a Google Sheets form to track the play of each machine and also include the date of battery change. I have never noticed a leakage issue with my lithium batteries and they are going strong after a couple years.[quoted image]

Do lithium batteries leak (like alkaline)? And if they do, does it cause any issues?

It is interesting checking out the game stats, how many games you put on machines and your average ball times. I also like comparing things like left vs right outlane drains and left vs right flipper usage.

Do lithium batteries leak (like alkaline)? And if they do, does it cause any issues?
It is interesting checking out the game stats, how many games you put on machines and your average ball times. I also like comparing things like left vs right outlane drains and left vs right flipper usage.

they technically do, but it is WAAAAY less often and takes much longer to happen. Basically they would die before this is a real issue

Do lithium batteries leak (like alkaline)? And if they do, does it cause any issues?

I have heard they can, and seen a picture of one that leaked once and it was a coincell type. I personally use lithium batteries in everything that takes a battery and have for decades and have yet to see one leak. The current set of batteries in my STTNG were installed in November 2015, I never check them and don't loose any sleep over it.

I personally use lithium batteries in everything that takes a battery and have for decades and have yet to see one leak. The current set of batteries in my STTNG were installed in November 2015, I never check them and don't loose any sleep over it.

I have rebuilt all flippers. Coils (3x 11629), sleeves, bats, bushings, plungers+links.
Also checked the transformer jumpering. It's on 230V, which is correct. I also tried next lower one (220V I think), no difference.

I have an issue with weak flippers.
I have rebuilt all flippers. Coils (3x 11629), sleeves, bats, bushings, plungers+links.
Also checked the transformer jumpering. It's on 230V, which is correct. I also tried next lower one (220V I think), no difference.
This is what they are probably supposed to be like:

Mine feel like half the power.
I can never make the left orbit. And rarely the Delta quadrant.
Any suggestions what to try next?

Have you cleaned / checked / replaced the flipper switch optos and interrupters?

Looking at your coin box, it looks like that divider was installed on the left, you would only do this if you have different coin mechs, like one for quarters and another for dollars ... like for the Susan B. Anthony dollar. Its very uncommon to have anything other than $.25 mechs in a US machine and you have a US coin door. I'm just trying to logically figure out why you have a machine with a coin box divider that was actually used ....

Looking at your coin box, it looks like that divider was installed on the left, you would only do this if you have different coin mechs, like one for quarters and another for dollars ... like for the Susan B. Anthony dollar. Its very uncommon to have anything other than $.25 mechs in a US machine and you have a US coin door. I'm just trying to logically figure out why you have a machine with a coin box divider that was actually used ....

It was used for sure because you can see the marks on the steel, I’m guessing tokens?

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