RESTAURANT ROUNDUP

The West Budget Diner reviews a local restaurant once a week and makes every effort to remain anonymous. Budget Dining reviews alternate between lunch and dinner. The total budget is $15 for lunch and $25 for dinner. This guide expresses the opinions of the Budget Diner. It is not a comprehensive listing nor does it include condensations of every full-length review.

Bagel Brothers of Brooklyn, 1831 N. Pine Island Road, Plantation. 474-6696. 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. No credit cards accepted. The atmosphere is casual with lots of hanging plants in wicker baskets, ceiling fans and wooden chairs and tables. The walls are lined with framed posters, which are for sale. The restaurant serves breakfast all day long and offers its customers a variety of deli sandwiches as well as hamburgers and salads. Fresh bagels are made throughout the day. Free refills on all fountain sodas, fresh baked breads and quick, courteous service are Bagel Brothers of Brooklyn's strong points.

China Wunan, 4465 N. University Drive, Lauderhill. 748-5550. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (AE, V, MC). The red and gold carved wooden archway leading to the main dining section is only the beginning of a delightful dining experience. The soft Chinese music playing in the background is relaxing and invites conversation. China Wunan offers Szechuan, Hunan and Mandarin dishes and the menu is divided by food types. There are eight vegetable dishes, 18 poultry dishes, 12 pork dishes, 14 beef and lamb dishes and 18 seafood dishes. All hot and spicy foods are marked with an asterisk, offering diners no unexpected surprises.

Encore Cafe, 4221 N. State Road 7, Hollywood. 987-8474. 4 p.m. to 2:45 a.m. for dinner. (AE, V, MC). Divided into two rooms using a red brick wall with openings at both ends, the cafe offers a lounge area and a split-level dining facility with tables and booths. The menu, designed as a program, reflects the theatrical theme. A wide variety of fare is offered: appetizers, salads, burgers, sandwiches and full-course meat and seafood dinners.

Forbidden City, 3060 W. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale. 485-7777. 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday until 1 a.m. (AE, MC, V). The Forbidden City's decor contains the usual Chinese restaurant red and green. Outstanding features are the aquariums -- one very large one in the dinning room and a second smaller one in the bar. This restaurant offers its customers a large and varied menu. Included are 12 appetizers and 11 soups; the traditional family dinners of one from Column A and one from Column B; standard pork, chicken, seafood and beef a la carte selections as well as many more distinctive dishes in the chef's suggestion section.

Franco's Italian Palace, 2986 NW 55th Ave., Lauderhill. 484-2275. 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (V, MC). A first-time visitor might have trouble finding Franco's Italian Palace, which is hidden away in Lauderhill's Stonebridge Shopping Center south of Oakland Park Boulevard. Franco's offers a wide variety of well-prepared entrees that would appeal to budget-minded diners. Among the dinner options are 12 early bird specials consisting of an Italian entree, soup or salad, garlic rolls, beverage and ice cream. The specials are served daily from 4 to 6:30 p.m. Franco's offers several Italian specialties served with spaghetti, salad and garlic rolls, including veal and peppers, chicken vesuvios, and sausage and peppers.

Jock's, 1460 University Drive, Coral Springs. 344-0377. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Lounge open until 2 a.m. Sunday through Friday, 3 a.m. Saturday. (V, MC, AE, DC). The restaurant's lounge is decorated with team pennants, photographs of local sports stars and three color television screens. At the front of the lounge is a small shop where one can purchase souvenirs of several professional sports teams. Jock's is the kind of restaurant where one can feel as comfortable ording rack of lamb for two as the standard hamburger.