The menu hardly breaks away from budget-Italian norms, but when it comes to providing fresh, tasty, uncomplicated fare at an appealingly affordable price, La Gastronomia is as good as it gets. Thin-crust pizzas and fresh pastas don't disappoint, but two Mediterranean fish, the orata (sea bream) and spigola (sea bass), get flown in every Wednesday and are prepared simply and delectably with potatoes, tomatoes, black olives, and herbs. To dine here and not order one of these fish is to visit Rome and snub the Colosseum. Made-on-premise mango tarte and bright lemon torta provide refreshing final notes to surprisingly delicious food.

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Located two blocks north of Miracle Mile, informal Italian deli La Gastronomia is easily overlooked. This is not because the food is forgettable but because the casual eatery is relatively small (two rustic rooms); relatively unders...