Phoebe English has done a couple of things since we last saw her: amalgamated her men’s and women’s collections and gone hell-for-vegetable-dyed leather for sustainability. As gently spoken as she is, English is as integrity-driven and thorough as they come among the rising young designers concerned about the damage the fashion industry causes. “I wanted to fill this collection with lots of different solutions to the way the industry can be quite wasteful,” she said. “I’ve been trying to choose raw materials that are mindful of the environment.”

The results of her self-revolution are embedded in this collection. She sourced buttons made from milk protein, rather than plastic or animal products. She now asks her factories to return the offcuts of the fabric she supplies them; they’ve been recombined into patchworked jackets, apron dresses, and a collaged collarless man’s shirt here. And to reduce her carbon footprint, she used fabrics “that don’t have to travel so far” from around Britain, including “lovely traditional Welsh flannel, waxed cotton from Ireland, and beautiful English cotton shirting, which is being made in England again for the first time in 150 years, after the reopening of a textile mill in Manchester.” The shoes she found meet her standards because they are made by Tricker’s, the great British cobblers, “with dyes [that] come from the waste products of olive farming.”