Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester.

As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter.

Despite the shortcomings of that piece (low collar, odd button positioning) it was a lovely material and easy to wear - just thrown over anything, whether smart or casual.

As has happened with both previous collaborations (Bridge Coat and Trench Coat), these thoughts were the spur to start talking to Private White VC about making something even better.

I wanted to keep the cloth. Donegal tweed is so pleasing in the texture it creates, yet subtle. There’s slubbiness in there and colour variation when you look carefully, but it never feels as old-fashioned as a big windowpane.

Genuine Donegal yarn, and weaving it in the UK too, appealed to Private White of course, given their emphasis on local make.

I wanted to change the colour though. Brown is great, but too warm and casual to wear with a suit - so I took inspiration from the charcoal donegal jacket Steven Hitchcock made me last year.

That seemed to have the perfect combination of casual texture yet coolness of tone.

Developing the cloth was pretty straightforward. Harder was the overall design of the coat - in fact, rather harder than I expected.

A raglan coat looks so simple. There are no fiddly bits like belts, box pleats or cuffs. It’s all collar and then long drape of cloth.

But actually I think that increases the emphasis on the few design elements there are. The collar really bothered me, for instance, but I couldn’t figure out why.

After a couple of samples, we figured out it wasn’t the collar itself but where it sat on the body. We needed to lift it up, so it encircled the neck and covered the shirt and tie when buttoned.

This is practical, giving more protection from the wind, but also flattering, as it makes the wearer look taller as well as broader across the shoulders.

Walking the coast of Ireland (in fitting with the Donegal theme) put that to the test.

Buttoning up just the top two buttons (also a style I like) showed how well the new collar design worked. There was no need for the throat latch, though we did test that as well.

If you needed to, it was also possible to tighten the cuff of the coat against the cold. And fasten the vent closed at the back, with a hidden button.

I carried across a couple of favourite design points from the Bridge Coat.

One was the deep gold lining, which goes as well with grey Donegal and it did with the Bridge Coat’s navy. Distinctive, but not showy.

Another was cashmere-lined pockets. Frankly, I’ll never understand people that line pockets with bemberg or similar. It’s so cold. Cotton would be no more expensive, and a good deal warmer.

But the ultimate is cashmere (and on both sides, front and back of the hand). It’s like putting on luxurious gloves every time you put your hands in there.

The buttons were also carried across: the matte, two-hole, dark-brown horn that is used on Savile Row tailoring and (for me) immediately separates this from normal ready-to-wear.

There are also small brown flecks in the Donegal cloth - some dark brown, some light - which go well with the buttons. It’s the key reason the coat works with things like jeans and brown suede I think, as well as tailoring. It softens the look.

The outfits pictured here are intended to demonstrate this versatility.

In the outfit below, the coat is worn over a grey roll neck (also Private White), blue denim and brown-suede boots, with a Permanent Style cream watch cap.

That’s for the weekend walk, chucked on to run out with the dog.

Next, the coat is worn at a local coffee shop, with tailoring.

The jacket is in our brown Escorial Tweed, made by Sartoria Zizolfi; the trousers are green flannel by Pommella; and the shirt is in striped PS Oxford cloth.

With Edward Green loafers, it’s smart but not too smart. A good example of the sports-jacket-and-trousers combination I’ve been banging on about for a long time.

And then it’s worn with a tie, below, just to show how smartly that all comes together.

I doubt many readers will want to add the beret. But just so you know, that seems to work nicely as well.

I’m still experimenting with the beret. It’s so practical, rolling up into the pocket, but it sits on a fine line between distinctive and dandy.

Other product points to mention are that we made the coat a couple of inches longer than most, so it drops just below my knee. But it’s easy to shorten if you want (in fact easier than almost any other coat) and we left 2cm of inlay in there so it can even be lengthened.

Full details on alterations at the bottom of this post.

I also reshaped the throat latch. It’s the only significant, asymmetric design point on a coat like this, and often ignored. Ours follows the line of the collar, with angled ends.

And probably most importantly, the collar has a large crescent-shaped insert at the back, between it and the body of the coat.

You can wear the collar of this coat down, but I would always have it up - and it simply won’t stay up without that insert.

It’s something bespoke overcoats often miss out, because they’re cut like a jacket and not designed to be popped up.

Donegal yarn

Here are some details for those that are interested.

First, the cloth, which is really what makes this coat. The long flowing expanse of it is a celebration of that cloth, its character and its texture.

The origin is 'Donegal Yarns': the last remaining spinner of the product in Donegal, Ireland. The tiny mill has been spinning that distinctive flecked yarn since the nineteenth century, and the Kilcarra tweed we used in our coat deliberately echoes the feeling of the very first incarnations.

The mill also dyes, blends, cards and spins all itself - all in a tiny operation between the heather-topped hills and the Irish coast.

Cloth and make

The yarn was then woven by Mallalieus of Delph, a small family-run mill in the middle of the Pennines that dates back to 1863. It is also one of the few vertically integrated mills left in England.

And conveniently close to Private White VC in Manchester, where the coat was manufactured.

The cloth is 620g, which is good for most of the winter in the UK - but not the kind of thing to buy if you need just one coat to survive the season in Boston.

Ordering

The Donegal Overcoat costs £745 plus VAT. At the moment it is exclusively available through Permanent Style, on the webshop here.

We have sizes from Small (Private White 3) up to Extra Large (Private White 6).

Have a close look at the measurements below if you're unsure of sizing, and if in doubt compare to a coat you already own

However, I would say the coat is standard size, so I would take your normal size - roughly Small for a 48 chest, Medium for 50 and so on. Unlike the Bridge Coat, it is not slim in fit and there should therefore be no need to size up.

I am six foot tall and usually wear a size 50-chest jacket. I am wearing a Medium.

As with all our products, there are free returns should you want to change sizes. Ships from the UK.

Measurements:

Small/3

Medium/4

Large/5

X-Large/6

Chest

53cm

56.5

60

63.5

Waist

54.5

58

61.5

65

Bottom hem

61

64.5

68

71.5

Length

109

110

111

112

Sleeve

82

83

84

85

Cuff (width)

14.1

14.5

14.9

15.3

Alterations:

The coat is cut a little longer than most modern overcoats, as I consider it more practical and flattering

However, it can easily be shortened by a tailor - a good four inches without interrupting much of the balance

It can also be lengthened slightly if needed, by around 2cm

The sleeves can also be lengthened by around 2cm if required

And they can be shortened. Shortening by 1.5cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved, but that would not be a big job for a tailor

The body can also be narrowed, but I wouldn't recommend it, as the style is supposed to be roomy, easy to wear, and flow

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Size wise, having a bridge coat in Medium (it fits very well on the shoulders and chest) would you suggest the same size considering I won‘t wear that often the coat over a suit ? Or you suggest a size down Vs. the bridge coat?

(I am 165cm…and looking proportions on you I guess I’ll have to alternate the length…)

I’d go for the same size probably Enry, although it also depends (like the Trench Coat) how you like to wear it – the shoulders being raglan will pretty much always fit. So if between sizes, perhaps pick depending on whether you’d like th coat a little looser and drapey or not.
And of course, always check the measurements

Yes, definitely. Best with slightly more casual suits or combinations, eg without a tie or in a slightly more casual material like flannel. But still goes with pretty much any suit because of the dark charcoal colour

I like this very much, and I agree with your preference for longer coats. I can’t really justify any more outwerwear in my life sadly.

Just with a boring ecommerce hat on, it would be good to have some plain mannequin / full length shots of the coat in the PS shop. I’m all for the nice lifestyle shots, but a complete view of the piece is always useful to get the fill context. Likewise with some detail shots – the lighting and focal effects are aesthetically nice, but can make it hard to parse some of the details.

Really nice piece! So last year I was looking for a coat precisely like this one. But then some blogger named Simon convinced me I had to buy their Bridge Coat last year, and well, so much for the overcoat I guess!

Simon, what stands out most here is, I think, the beret. Notwithstanding your interesting article on your tattoo and the fact that it’s been longer term project, I can’t help but think that it, and this headwear, is in part a result of your leaving an office based job. Spending more time with the more “hipster” end of the menswear spectrum ( ie not having the daily exposure to conservatively – even if sometimes poorly – dressed office workers and lawyers in your previous job) means that your sense of “orientation” is shifting. What used to stand out as understated style now looks boring, whilst a tattoo or a beret is now a more common sight. You lose perspective.

Which is very liberating for you and a fine choice, but I do think it shifts the site away from its roots and makes it less relevant. The ethos used to be “be the best dressed man in the room, but in a way in which most people couldn’t quite say why”. The beret really doesn’t fit in with that ethos.

In short, Ethan Newton’s appearance on these pages used to raise comments (“who is that guy in the Hawaiian shirt? Hardly permanent style!”) to which the, in my view valid, response was “that’s Ethan Newton, he pulls it off and he can” With the bigger beard, the tattoo and now the beret, you’re only a pair of small round sunglasses and – with al due respect – a few more calories away from being a Newton copycat. So Ethan Newton’s style is increasingly permanent style Which shows the extent to which there has been a shift.

Not necessarily a bad thing, but definitely less relevant (to me and, I assume, most) and a difference to be noted in how things change.

I know what you mean J. But I would say I don’t think it’s really a shift. I still dress the vast majority of the time in exactly the way you describe.
Like the top shot of me walking in the harbour – and indeed like all the other shots here apart from that one of the beret.
The things I wear might broaden slightly, but 90% of the looks are still wearable, subtle understated style.
I understand the sensitivity, but I hope you agree those other images all fit within that aesthetic and continue to provide everyday inspiration.

I find the beret surprisingly chic, but I keep failing to understand the functionality of headwear that doesn’t cover ones ears. Perhaps I have sensitive ears, ha!

On the topic of evolving into a hipster I strongly disagree. It’s only natural ones style evolves with time and with context. Life would be pretty boring if we were all just set in our ways after the age of 25.

I have to say that I find these posts the most compelling and the more everyday type clothing that is featured on this site feels the most relevant to me personally. I generally skip any article orientated towards office or corporate wear. Dressing for work has never really been something that interests me. It is the life outside of the professional world that is more compelling. More of the smart and considered everyday clothes and tailoring, less on how to keep an Accountant/ Lawyer looking less dull from Monday to Friday.

Thanks.
It was from Anatomica in Japan (also in Paris). It is a traditional wool basque beret, labelled ‘veritable basque’ rather attractively. But I don’t think that’s a separate brand from what I can see. I’m told Laulhere are pretty good

Simon, this coat is fantastic, love the design and fabric! However, wearing the beret I think does indeed put you in dandy territory which should be avoided. What about wearing a classic flat cap instead? Regarding sizing: I currently own the Private White bomber jacket in size five. Would you recommend the same size for this overcoat? You’re collaboration with Private White was a stroke of genius so, please continue doing so. This company makes some of the finest outerwear in the world and the PS pea coat, along with several other pieces, are on my to purchase list.

None of them have quite the same qualities as a beanie, in terms of being able to roll up easily and protect – a beanie or watch cap probably comes closest. Or perhaps a very soft, unlined hat than can be rolled. But that’s still rather bulky.

Thanks for the tutorial Herve. I am still in the early days of wearing this, so it’s good to have the input. I personally think this style of wearing it suits me better, and don’t mind if it is a more military style. But good to always know the traditions before you go against them!

With all due respect to Herve here. The beret is a very traditional item originating in the Béarn region and very popular in the French and Spanish Basque Country. Its use by sheperds and later city dwellers long predates its army adoption. And please, spare me how you wear it in Paris. If you want to see how the beret is truly worn, walk around San Sebastian, Bilbao, Biarritz or Saint Jean de Luz. You will see plenty of elegantly dressed people wearing them. The high end of the beret should be worn at the back of your head as there is no emblem to be shown (unless you are in the army) and it should be slightly tilted to one side. You were almost on the spot Simon. It used to be said that no self-respecting adult should leave the house without one, no matter the season of the year. I cannot remember my grandfather without one.

The beret is truly a “permanent style” hat. Hasn’t changed in centuries. No sign of dandyism, at least not in its original contexts.

My apologies if my comment came over as rude. I found your comment a tad patronising with your Paris reference. As it happens I am quite passionate about berets. Runs in the family. Anyway, peace man and wear the beret however you want.

There is always the tweed fisherman’s HAT, much like a combination of a regular cotton poplin fisherman’s hat, and a garrison cap, it has the narrow brim of the cotton fisherman’s hat, but with the crown of the garrison cap. Think Sean Connery in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Hi Simon, the coat looks amazing! Two questions:
1) Are the sleeve measurements from nape or raglan sleeve measurements?
2) Are there any plans to make the coat in a slightly heavier cloth? I love the color of the donegal, however am based in the northeast of the U.S. where winters can get quite cold.

Shallow person that I am, this coat brings to mind the one Daniel Day Lewis sports during his countryside jaunts in Phantom Thread, especially in the final landscape shot in the article. Can I ask where the photos were shot?

Simon, I love the idea of cashmere lined pockets and I’ve actually considered trying it on a coat of mine. I assume lining existing pockets wouldn’t be too hard for a skilled tailor, but do you know where one could buy cashmere for that?

Just as a note for yr reference; I’m a man who owns many, many overcoats, including vintage ones from the 1930s through 1970s that I’ve inherited, and the first thing that goes out on an overcoat is the pocket lining, following by shoulder lining in the center over the middle back where it is pleated on a good quality coat. I would be concerned over the cashmere wearing out quickly as cashmere has a tendency to do…..On that note, my favorite pocket linings are either moleskin, or very hearty 12-13 oz brushed cotton twill, think winter chino trouser material, but more crisp and stiff, which is what is in several of my tweed topcoats from the 1930s. My raglan Donegal herringbone twill tweed overcoat also has the crescent shaped inset in the collar. It is a wonderfully functional structural thing, mine however has a button through collar point with a small corozo button on the underside of the opposing collar and more dramatically pointed collar points.

The issue of wear over decades was my point of concern. I’m sure that in the relative short term, say 5 to 7 years it shouldn’t be any major problem. Of course, I am terribly hard on my overcoat pockets and have been known to store anything from a bottle of wine or cognac, to a small carbine or hunting knife in the side slash pockets of my overcoats. I of course wear mine while shooting on occasion….so there is that. But bottles of liquor while walking from my car to the front door of a friend’s house can be surprisingly deleterious to the linings of one’s overcoat pockets! 🙂

I also love the lined pockets, it’s something that I look for now in winter coats, although I have never done this with cashmere for durability reasons. Thick wale corduroy has been the fabric of choice for me as it has a cozy feel and is also quite durable.

Looks both beautiful and flexible Simon. I would also add that with Cordings’ pricing for a similar coat being nearly £600 I’m pleasantly surprised at the price (the advantages of not having to pay Piccadilly rates & rents I assume).

However, you would launch this just days after I found/bought the relevant Cordings’ coat on Marrkt after having been keeping an eye out for one since your last post on it!

Well, I suppose I at least I have a back up plan if the Cordings’ coat doesn’t fit. Or if I just talk myself into the upgrade!

I’m close to Sam in having a few coats now, and also wondering how much wear I’d get out of a coat of this (relatively light) weight in Canada–likely limited to only part of the spring and fall, unfortunately.

Does the coat have any structure inside it? Or is this a fully unstructured garment that just drapes from the shoulders?

Hi Simon, I was recently in contact with Private White about this coat and they informed me the canvas is fused. I’m not as familiar with standards when it comes to outerwear, but I know fused canvas tends to carry a negative connotation (I gather largely due to durability/longevity). Is it not as big of a deal in a coat like this because it presumably would undergo less dry cleaning than a sport coat, therefore the risk of the glue melting and bubbling is lower?

I’m sure not all fused canvassing is equal, as well. I’m familiar with Private White products and know they are top quality, so don’t mean to be casting doubt, more just curious.

Hi,
I think there might have been a little confusion between you and PWVC.
Most ready-made coats like this hardly use any canvas, fused or floating. And that’s the case here – there is no canvas down the front, as there would be in a sports jacket or tailored overcoat. The only fusing is a little bit around the collar, and that’s not something there would be any advantage in leaving floating.
This structural difference is one reason I’ve never done tailored outerwear like a polo coat or ulster coat as a RTW collaboration.
Hope that makes sense
Simon

Great looking coat. It’s exactly what I’m after this season. Sizing question though: I wear a 38R typically, though may be more closely a 39. 40 tends to seem a bit large unless the fit is slim. My favorite jackets have the same chest measurements as the size small in this coat, so I am guessing a Small might be too constricting over tailoring for me and a medium would be best?

Nice one! I can see where one of the previous comments, which raises the question of you becoming too ‘trendy’ or hipster is coming from, however, I ABSOLUTELY love the beret. I’m afraid I would be too shy to wear it myself (maybe one day!) but I love the look on you. It also made me think of how many various clothing options men in the past had, seems like the modern man is limited to t-shirt and jeans most of the time.

Also, can this be worn with the collar down, all you photos show you with it standing up

Many thanks, Simon. I live in a tropical climate and only need a proper coat when travelling to the colder regions. This provides exactly the versatility I need for a week of say a couple of business meetings, a family dog walk, an afternoon near the beach and a night out in town. Perfect, just ordered one.

Hi Simon, coat arrived and I love it. Thanks again. I was surprised by how light it is though. Perhaps it is the fact that I have been in South Asia for the past 7-8 years but I need a heavier cloth to get me through “most of a UK winter”. Brrr. Will solve with extra layers and scarf etc.

I quite like the beret, and in no way see it as a step towards dandyism. The beret is a classic,
although maybe a bit eccentric depending on where you live. Simon I appreciate your fashion explorations and while they may not all work for me they often get me to think about trying something new, something a little more personal. I think we should embrace individuality and keep a little fun in dressing well. While you know the “rules” you have enough confidence to express yourself by trying new things.

If you’re interested in launching some form of cap please consider a flat cap instead of a beret. A PS designed flat cap would be very useful and more practical in my opinion. The beret is difficult to wear well and has an unfortunate propensity to make a man look like a dandy or somewhat effeminate. Best to leave this style to the French.

This is a beautiful coat, my compliments Simon. You made excellent design decisions, particularly with the longer length, well done. I would advise against wearing a beret as the style tends toward the effeminate and looks way too French quite frankly.

I’m indulging in a little bit of comparative sizing with my morning coffee, maybe someone will find it useful. Otherwise, hey, I like numbers. TL;DR, Simon sizes are one or two sizes smaller than Private White sizes.

The chest and waist garment measurements of the PS Donegal in size S are 106 cm and 109 cm, respectively.

The PS trench coat is available in 109 cm and 105 cm in the chest and waist. This is size S and would probably fit me nicely in the shoulders when wearing a jacket underneath.

My question about size XS in the Donegal came from my three coats and jackets from Private White, all in size XS. All fit over a jumper but not over a tailored jacket.

But, if I tried on a PS bridge coat in size XS with measurements of 94 cm and 89 cm in chest and waist, I think I’d not be able to close it while exhaling in a t-shirt. A medium (106-101) would be a bit tight on the shoulders when worn over tailoring, but a large (113-108) perhaps roomy.

In any case I can easily understand that the bridge coat XS does not sell very well, it is at least a whole size smaller than Private White’s offerings in size XS.

Thanks Stefan, I’m sure this is very useful. However, Private White sizes and mine are the same. They also sell the trench coat and the bridge coat, in the same sizes, and the sizing is determined by them, not me.
I think the difference you’re referring to is just the fact that different pieces in the Private White range are cut differently. The bridge coat, for example, is cut with slightly larger shoulders to fit over a suit jacket, but that’s the same cut as the cashmere pea coat PW used to do

Hi Simon. I think you are right, but, whereas you are thinking about cut, I am just comparing the letter sizes. They don’t match:

The PW peacoat has a 99 cm chest in size 2, and the PS bridge coat has a 94 cm chest in size 2. The bridge coat is actually not roomier in the shoulders if you compare the same size. It is less roomy in the same size. And there is a 12 cm difference at the waist, the peacoat has a 101 cm waist but the bridge coat has an 89 cm waist, both in XS.

Now, if you compare cuts, like I think you are really doing, then the bridge coat is roomier in the shoulders: The XS PW peacoat has a waist measurement of 101 cm and if I were to buy a bridge coat with the same waist measurement of 101 cm it would have an extra 7 cm of room in the chest – 106 cm instead of 99 cm. But the size label would say M, not XS.

I’m planning to order that one from you, one of these days, by the way. And was quite surprised that I need an M.

Incidentally, the PW “deluxe cashmere” peacoat seems to have a 106 cm chest in size XS. That is completely different than the bridge coat, 12 cm roomier in the same size. If I were to buy that cashmere peacoat, I’d be back to size XS. But maybe you are thinking of the older model peacoats, with the flap pockets.

Yes, I think that was an older model.
There are certainly big differences here, but my point was that these are all Private White VC pieces. The Bridge Coat is something they sized and put their numbering on, in the same way they did the pea coat. If you go into their store, all these pieces are next to each other, with the same numbering and sizing that they have determined. I helped with design and cut, but the sizing is theirs. They just have these differences in their range.

I have a similarly styled Burton’s overcoat that was my Grandfather’s, he got it just after the War when he was on his way to America and had stopped off in England briefly.

His is in a creamy marled chestnut/caramel brown alternating with antique ivory in large scale herringbones with mostly rusty red Donegal boule flecks. The fabric is at least 16 oz., and the half herringbones are at least half an inch to 3/5ths of an inch in length. The coat is simply cut, also with raglan sleeves, has no cuff detailing whatsoever, but does have rather longish sleeves, but all of the paneled seams on both the body and the sleeves are welted! It has very large corozo buttons on the front which are visible and in a luscious burnt caramel color, and a small one under the collar. The collar is more dramatically pointed than yrs here, but it also has little turn backs near the collar, like miniature lapels that one might find on a sport shirt. On the left collar point, there is a button , as well as at the throat so that the collar can be buttoned across entirely, ditto in the vent up the back. My Grandfather’s and now my jacket flares out from the arm pit at roughly a 15 degree angle, and has side slash pockets lined in very plush brushed cotton twill. It is my favorite coat, followed by my vintage Brooks Brothers cashmere Chesterfield with its velvet collar and full silk lining. In my opinion, with a balmacaan coat, the breadth of the skirting is key to an elegant and easy fit and tasteful drape to the garment. This one you’ve brought forth is very handsome!

£954 vs. Cording’s £595 for its ‘Follifoot’ Donegal. The advantages of the PS are superior design (esp. neck area), pocket lining, buttons and the smaller run. It also seems to drape and shape better. The disadvantages of the Donegal is that it is not showerproof, not really warm enough for colder weather etc. but there are few other outerwear garments that really chime with a sports jacket and flannels (Barbour is a standby but not always suitable). It is, undoubtedly, better with the beanie but no shame in trying the beret. The issue, particularly in the UK and outside of military association, is the ‘Frank Spencer’ link that renders it at best a comedy piece, or conversely, a Che Guevara revolutionary reference. For civilian purposes, outside of France, it has never quite taken off – in Germany, Italy, Holland etc. it is rarely seen though it has had some recognition in Spain. Better a ‘Baker Boy’ cap reversed and more in keeping with the Donegal’s traditions?

Yes, I think it’s all about the associations. And I think most people today would not make the Frank Spencer connection. But you never know. I link it to Gene Krell, a personal inspiration, and to images of Laurel and Hardy wearing them in their later years.

Like most wool coats, by the way, this Donegal can deal with a shower. Just hang it and let it dry at home – it will be none the worse.

In fact, it was worn in showers for most of this shoot! You can see the rain in the top harbour shot, if you look carefully

Although I’m tempted by the coat, I have had sizing issues with Private White VC’s outerwear in the past so will most likely wait until it is available to try on in its store. I have a Twin Track in Size 3 which is slightly too snug around the arms, while a subsequent jacket I purchased from them in a Size 4 is too large.

It’s tough for RTW retailers to design the perfect coat to fit everyone. In general, the Cordings fit is fine for me and friends who also shop there. Simon has shoulders that slope more than most men’s and that could be a contributing factor to the collar problems. Perhaps he could comment on that possibility.

Thankfully, Cordings have brought back the Follifoot this year and the chocolate herringbone donegal looks great. It’s the casual alternative to the covert coat and the temptation will be difficult to resist. Sadly, it would hard to justify another grey overcoat as I have major house refurbishment costs to fund this month.

Simon,
This is a sartorial masterpiece and I must have one.
That said, I will need PW to measure me up. Do they have samples in Marylebone and will I be able to place an order ex-factory ?
Once again a huge bravo but, the beret …………..ok I won’t say “I’ve had a lot of worries Betty”.

Absolutely beautiful coat, Simon, very well done! Do you think this could be my one overcoat to keep forever and ever? I’m a young guy working in the City of London and wear a worsted suit (and often a tie) into work most days, but equally I spend the rest of the time in knitwear, jeans, chukka boots etc.

Nice coat!
Do you think the XL would fit someone with a size 50 UK / 60 EU?
As well, during a basted fitting I noticed the tailor hanged the overcoat over not one but two hangers, placed one behind the other. Would you advise doing this at home too to preserve the shoulder shape?

Hi Simon,
I like this coat very much and hopefully my search for a new winter coat this year is soon to be over. I think it bridges the gap between something a little edgy with a more traditional design, (eg I’d been looking at a duffle without a hood, but feel this coat has a more mature styling), plus it has what looks to be some design features which enhance the look. I recently tried on the brown coat you mentioned and the low fit around the neck was the deal breaker for me. Many of the other features look well thought through and the drape whilst A-line doesn’t appear over done or too oversized – an expensive mistake I made last year!
I agree with the comment on the price, which is very reasonable when taking design, materials (etc.) into account. Finally whilst I expect to purchase, as with one of the other comments, I prefer to try on something like a coat in a shop, ( although I still got it a bit wrong last year!) so will go to the Private White shop when it arrives.
I tend to fall into the having trouble doing online returns category! I’ll comment again when I have been into PW.
Regarding the other comments on your evolving style, it’s just that – ‘evolving’. If you didn’t try new things (although I would tend to exclude tattoos from this), you don’t grow and progress, and learn sometimes from mistakes.
Well done on a great piece of form and function design . Keep up the great work and keeping us on our toes – we all need it sometimes.

Re. Gene Krell: I did a search for images but could only find one – he did sport a Rasta cap on one occasion though – he has great hair, almost a pity to cover it up. Other beret icons worth mentioning are Picasso (younger) and Dizzy Gillespie – Gillespie, particularly, was influential on 50’s hipster culture (music and fashion). Hemingway was also a wearer and it was in wide use, by both sides, during the Spanish civil war.
Respectfully, can I suggest the Argentinian beret worn by Gauchos and polo players. Similar to the traditional but slightly larger and coarser in finish. I met some Argentinian polo players wearing same, they were worn with much style and, though related to the French beret, looked quite different (more sporting and less inclined to the intelligentsia in reference).https://gauchobelts.co.uk/

The coat looks absolutely delightful, but unfortunately as a resident of somewhere that does get well and truly cold for more than half the year, the lower weight means that it’s just really not practical. Would you & Private White ever consider doing another run in a heavier cloth? Or, failing that, how would you rate the Cording’s coat in terms of overall warmth?

Could you comment on the new tariffs going into effect on English clothing and how that will affect those of us buying from the US. The tariffs mention suits and outerwear made in the UK. Will this affect jackets/sport coats? What about things from Whitcomb and Shaftesbury that are cut in the UK but sewn in elsewhere (Specific question here as I had a first fitting yesterday)? Will this affect the your own Donegal Overrcoat?

Beautiful looking coat, Simon. Could you describe what the interior pockets are like? On the bridge coat, I love the higher interior pocket, which allows me to slip my cell phone (mobile for you Brits :)) in and out when the coat is buttoned up. Does the Donegal coat have a similar pocket? Does it also have a poacher’s pocket, like the Bridge coat does? (the poacher’s pocket is perfect for gloves or for a watch cap).

PS – I really love the cashmere lining on the interior pockets–they really feel wonderful. That said, I imagine it’s probably best to avoid putting keys in those pockets.

Thanks.
On the pockets, sure. There isn’t the vertical pocket, as on the Bridge Coat. It seemed to make less sense on a single-breasted coat like this, but I know what you mean about the functionality. Instead this has two internal breast pockets, and yes then that nice large poacher’s pocket, buttoned.

I suffer 3 issues with outerwear-
1) I work in the sartorially challenged world of IT, where Barbour is considered “smart” and M&S is de-rigueur, in my early 30s finding a balance between looking really smart, feeling good and enjoying tailoring, without looking relatively foppish is always tough.
2) As a consultant a week can change from jumper, to blazer, to suit as I try to match my client’s offices. Carrying all three on the train is challenge enough without multiple coats as well; a coat that will fit a canvased suit under it, but not drown me when only wearing a shirt is a tall order.
3) At 5,8″ ‘proper’ length coats can often make me look even shorter.
I can gladly say having received this coat and spent all weekend trying it on with almost every outfit I own; it truly seems to be a panacea to the above. I can’t wait to get a lifetime of use out of it!

As someone who seems about the same size as you and who wants the same versatility out of the coat, what size did you go with? I am very torn between the 38 and 40. Now that they are back in stock I was thinking of trying one but feel stuck, and buying from the US if I need to return is something of a pain. Any advice you can give would be wonderful, thanks!

Simon
Got mine yesterday. Think it is really nice. My thoughts are below:
Should definitely be heavier – more of a mid weight coat.
Not sure how hardy the cloth will be with brambles, thorns, general rough and tumble that you get on an Autumn / Winter walk
Cashmere pockets feel nice now but think they will age badly

Would also have gone for pleated vent (don’t know the terminology, you have something similar on the top of your cifonelli overcoat). I feel like this gives more space to step and move

Lovely coat, nice material, colour and good fit for me, size 3 my usual PWVC size- 5′ 10″ 10 stone, slim build. It is a mid weight coat so i would need ample knitwear underneath on a coldish day here in NE Scotland. I have tried it with sports jacket and knitwear and it is obviously tighter but works. I could probably wear a size 4 depending on what i wore underneath for warmth so that maybe something for others to consider depending on where you live.
There is plenty of room in the bicep area but then tapers considerably so this could be restrictive depending on whats worn underneath.
Also, there needs to be spare buttons that come with the coat, where can i get them from?
Overall very pleased Simon well done!

Simon.
I popped into PWVC’s London store on Saturday and didn’t know how quick to get my wallet out. It’s a sartorial masterpiece – straight out of ‘The Phantom Thread’ playbook. Reynolds Woodcock would be delighted !
The small reservations I had about the lining colour and the weight of the cloth immediately disappeared. The lining us subtle and I actually like the lighter weight. It allows more creativity underneath – as the actress said to the bishop.
Mine has gone back to the factory for alterations ( I prefer them to do it – they are very good and don’t charge) so it will be a couple of weeks before my launch but I can’t wait to get flaneuring.
Bravo a tous . Particularly the great workers at PWVC’s factory.
Jason

Simon, just wanted to let you know that my coat arrived, and I love it! Buying something like this is online is always a bit of a gamble, but this time it certainly worked out. Will be wearing this piece of clothing for many, many years to come.

Hi Simon, it looks like the coat is already sold-out. Do you plan on making a waiting list for the next batch? And would you suggest taking the same size as the Bridge coat (everything except the shoulders fit very well, but the shoulders are ideal for suits, as was the idea behind it).

We have some coming back from size exchanges now actually – pretty much all sizes. So do email [email protected] to be on the waiting list and we’ll let you know when there is one.
If the body of the Bridge Coat fit you well, then yes I’d go for the same size

Afraid I am returning mine Simon. Like it a lot but a few comments (in case you would like honest feedback):

Cloth should be heavier & denser. The feel would be superior and better use for all seasons.
It is very rare to overheat in a coat like this as you can just leave it open and have a lot of air circulating so there is very little downside to having a really heavy cloth. Better against wind and weather if it were heavier

I would have the collar a tad bigger. Whilst buttoned (v similar proportions to you) it is a bit of a choker and not easy to tuck chin into. I think a marginally larger collar would also make it a lot easier to wear with collar down, lending it a more dramatic sweep

the back – I think a reverse pleat at the back gives a big more flex to the coat and looks far superior – wish it had one.

Cashmere pockets – a tad too warm and concerns about lining giving way

Finally on price. I was surprised on how low it was but even so going in and comparing to Cordings I didn’t really see much benefit in make or design (design being very similar). As such a charcoal loden from Cordings is about £250 cheaper

Finally on personal preference – I know covered placket traditional for this style of coat but I do like a button. Can look smart if in same shade and easier to dress down.

None of this is to say it isn’t a great product. I am just a bit anally retentive and thought I would share my thoughts in case useful (p.s. – surprised not to have any PS branding!)

Mine has arrived, and it’s a great fit. If I could give my immediate reaction, it was: ‘This coat looks vintage.’ Maybe the reasoning is this: Coats this long are often impressive, but too much so for casual wear. Bridging business and casual with a traditionally cut coat in a more relaxed tweed makes a rare combination today. One’s thoughts are immediately turned to past eras of casual, tweed coats (and I see the Phantom Thread references). Anyway, I mean this highly positively – surely the way classics are made?

In terms of adjustments, I might investigate enlarging the ‘poacher’s pocket’. I’ve no complaints about the current size, but I like the notion of an enormous pocket to take my journal or a book. Perhaps I’m thinking of old films where men didn’t carry bags, but seemed to have an inventory distributed through their coat pockets.

(And to add my vote on weight: I wouldn’t want it any heavier, as I’m mainly in cities such as Tokyo or Melbourne where temperatures feel cold but remain above freezing. A medium weight keeps it flexible, in my view.)

I’m looking for a casual coat, preferably in a herringbone/tweed of some kind. This looks like it could be a candidate, but I’m hesitant about the style, having been put off by similar RTW raglan sleeved garments, including the Cordings one, which I find rather tent-like. How would you compare this to the Cordings one (useful that you have both!) in terms of cut/style?

Ok, thanks. That’s helpful to know. Raglan seems to be the default design for more casual coats, with other overcoats being more structured and formal, at least in my experience. Perhaps there’s an opportunity for a new, more casual design.

Hi Simon
I really like the look of this coat, already have the Bridge Coat in a Small and love it but I see Private White are doing this in an extra small version too and I’m just wondering for a better fit would I be better going for it than a normal small. Im only 5ft 8/9 and a bit skinny so I don’t really want the coat to look like it’s hanging on me. I’m a bit worried the sleeves will be right down over my hands. I’m not so worried about the length as I think too many coats these days are too short so if it rains your jeans or trousers get soaked. I guess I could try a small and if it was still big send it back for an extra small if that turned out to be the case.

Nice idea, yes.
However, do be aware that names and types of coats do vary and don’t mean the same things to everyone. It’s often best to go off images or coats youve already seen that you like.
However, a post like this would be a good basis for those references too

I hope Simon, or perhaps someone else who’s already received his coat, can offer some sizing advice.

The Private White site advises that size 2/XS equates to a size 36-chest jacket. But I see that the chest measurement for an XS coat is 101 cm. That seems awful tight if the coat is meant to fit over a sportcoat or suit jacket. For example, the chestmeasurement for a size 36 Havana jacket at SuitSupply is 102 cm — and that’s a relatively slim cut (in my view, anyway).

Am I right to be concerned that the XS coat wouldn’t fit comfortably over a 36 jacket?

Thanks, Simon. I don’t have a coat in this style, unfortunately, but I suppose I could measure a topcoat that fits me decently and then work from there.

Looking back at the sizing charts, it seems like what’s happening here is that PW’s patterns are graded differently from manufacturers I’m more familiar with. Again using SuitSupply, just as an example — the chest on PW’s size 4 is 3 cm bigger than a SuitSupply Havana jacket, but the chest measurements are the same for size 38/3, and the PW coat is 1 cm smaller for size 36/2. For 42/5, the PW coat is a full 6 cm bigger.

If I were to bet, I’d say that the larger sizes would fit comfortably over an equivalent size sportcoat, but that the fit would be much tighter with the smaller sizes.

Which pants do you usually assign flat fronts to? Wouldn’t this green pant look nicer with one reverse pleat over flat fronts? Is there an advantage with one look over the other? I know you say it’s personal preference but why go flat front?

Since flannels sit right in the middle of the formality scale, and these are green flannels (a casual color), you would prefer no pleats for a casual look? Sorry, just trying to figure out why no pleats would be chosen over one.

Is there another batch planned for next year? I am currently saving up for the coat but as it looks it goes fast every time it becomes available. And sadly, things seem to get more expensive at PWVC (on their website) by the day to by from them directly.

Regarding the weight, it’s been described as being mid-weight by many people in the comments down below. However 620 grams is the same as the bridge coat, your Cifonelli overcoat and I guess very similar to the 21oz of your Sexton coat. Besides the fact that it’s single breasted, how warm do you think this coat is? How would it work if the temperature was below 0? I appreciate it depends on what you have underneath of course, but I guess the question is if it would be practical to wear it those days that the temperature is indeed below 0 (say up to -5C).

Personally, I’ve been wearing it in Canada in temperatures a little below 0 Celsius and have found it good for this weather. Today I was wearing it with a shetland sweater underneath in -2 degrees weather.

I worked for a high end private label sportswear company in Boston many years, Halrin Ltd. Founded originally on Essex St downtown as a men’s pants mfg (Halrin Slack), we made beautiful sportcoats for the natural shoulder brown shoes trade. Donegal Tweed is a gorgeous fabrication and worth every penny.

I can only echo the previous comments – its indeed a beautiful coat! However, I’m a bit suprised that none of the feedback mentioned the tight sleeves. I’ve got fairly thin arms by any standards and can hardly get a jacket through the sleeves on this coat. It’s a shame because I would like to be able to wear it with a suit or blazer and going up in size would ruin the other proportions which fit great.

Hi Simon,
I love, love this coat! It would be great for my son, but I am worried about the size as he is 6’3″ and very slim. What are the length of the sleeves in the size medium? I’m even wondering if the boxy style would be too loose…something tailored might be better.

Hi Jane,
The measurements are at the bottom of the post – the sleeve is measures from the end, up the middle of the sleeve, to wear it meets the collar at the top.

The style of the jacket is to be loose, so I think it depends most on whether he would like that style. If he would, the fit wouldn’t make too much difference. It could also be slimmed a little by a local tailor

Hello Simon,
one question to find the right size of this wonderful coat:
I am 183cm tall, weigh 76kg´s and my chest measurement is 97cm.
My jackets have the size 48 (Lardini, Caruso).
I prefer “slim-fit”.
Is S the right size?

Unfortunately I do not have a coat that actually fits me to take measurements.

By the way: is the coat good for temperatures between zero to six degrees (celsius) – winter-temperature in western germany.

Hi Raphael,
It’s really hard to say, because even people with the same chest measurement will want something in a different size – it’s a matter of style and taste as well as your body shape. And of course it depends what you wear under it.
If I had to guess, I’d say S would be your size, yes. But measuring another coat will always be best.

Lastly no, I wouldn’t really say it was a good coat for those temperatures. It’s more for 4-10 degrees

I just received mine in the size 3 (38) and it’s a wonderful piece. It’s one of the nicest things I own, and a splendid balance between sumptuous and casual. I work in a creative field and I think it nails the formality level. The sizing is perhaps a little tricky for me, but I’ll leave my example for the benefit of others who are pondering. I’m 174cm and a reasonably slim build, but with a 38″ chest (measured), but my normal jacket size tends to be 36R. The size 3 is perfect with a chunky sweater on underneath, and with tailoring it works; it’s maybe a *touch* constricting with folded arms, but I know that a size 4 would hang on me, so I will take the trade-off of the coat looking great for most of the outfits I would pair it with over absolute accommodation. The coat falls 1 cm below my kneecap (the bottom of the patella), as Simon describes it does on him. The only other piece of outerwear I own, I can compare the overcoat (size 3) to a Norwegian Rain Single-Breasted Homme raincoat (M). The Donegal is slightly more accommodating, partly on account of it’s entirely made of natural fibers that stretch.

My coat arrived a couple of days ago. I had a hard time ordering the coat, because it was – in my world – a lot of money. but it was with it. the coat works casual and business 🙂
looks and fells awesome and it is a really a great difference to all these parka-jackets (e.g. Canada goose, whoolrich or stone-island) you can see downtown in Germany

Keep up the great work and thanks for this great coat.

(I have ordered size “S” – I have a size 48 in Lardini oder Caruso-suits).

Hello Simon, I recently got the coat in size XS from Private White.
The coat is marvellous however, as I am a relatively short man, some necessarily are required. My biggest concern is the waist. I do understand the coat is supposed to be a bit roomy, but it is a big difference comparing to the Bridge coat. I am wondering how much can the waist be taken in? And would you recommend Pinnas & Needles to alter?

Yes, the fit is pretty much the exact opposite of the Bridge Coat. It is suppose to be roomy, but also falling straight from the shoulders – so you shouldn’t take it in at the waist, but rather narrow it all the way down if you want to.
I wouldn’t do it more than an inch on both sides, but yes it’s something Pinnas could do

Thanks for you reply Simon. I will consider to narrow it down.
Regarding the Bridge coat, as I had gained some weight over the past year, will it be possible to take out some of the Vatican and make it bigger? It’s feeling rather snug if not too small at the moment.

Will the second iteration of the coat be exactly the same, to are you going to change some elements? Denser cloth and inverted back pleat have been mentioned a couple of times and I think both are good suggestions.

We are considering a heavier/denser cloth, yes, but otherwise the design won’t change. An inverted back wouldn’t be that clean and a bit too much like a Loden coat for me. We will also slightly widen the sleeves though, as that was something a few people fed back on

Can I please put my hand up for nothing to change design or cloth wise?

I don’t think I could use it if it was any heavier (Australia). For me the current weight suits the product’s mandate of versatility, anything heavier might reduce its total use cases if that makes sense?

I loved the cloth, but unfortunately the cut of the RTW coat didn’t suit me. Would you consider making the cloth available in the same way as the escorial cloth, so that lengths could be bought for a tailor to make a bespoke coat?

Based on some of the earlier comments, I take it you’re planning on restocking this coat in the fall (pandemic permitting)? If so, I’d like to add my vote to keeping the weight the same – if it’s really cold, you can always layer up, but you can’t do the reverse…

As an aside, how would you compare the level of formality of this coat with the bridge coat?

I think the bridge and donegal coat are similar in terms of formality, but for different reasons. The short length of the bridge coat makes it less formal, but the navy cloth makes it more so. The opposite is true for the donegal.

Still, of the two I’d be more likely to wear the donegal with a smart suit.

Assuming one owns both, which would you use / would work better for a particular occasion? The colors are versatile and go with similar things, and as you mentioned, the level of formality is pretty similar.

Nice question.
I guess that would be good, though it would quickly have to get rather casual to justify five pieces. So perhaps the navy overcoat, then a grey herringbone, then a raincoat, then a suede blouson etc.

A wonderful coat. The last time I could buy such quality off the rack was at Aquascutum in Regent Street back in the 1980s – all my coats came from them. I am a 52″ chest and 6ft21/2:” tall. The sales assistant would simply ask, “What colour, sir?” Nobody is interested in catering to me today. Please, please, please make for outsizes like me.