Deck

When Uno Mas Taqueria y Cantina opened on South Pearl Street in mid August, it brought diversity to Platte Park's restaurant offerings—and it had been a long time coming. Patrick Mangold-White, who also owns Gaia Bistro[5] and Kaos Pizzeria[6], told me when he was opening Kaos in 2009 that some day he would open a taqueria in the neighborhood. Now, several years later and two months in, the spot buzzes with locals ordering executive chef Drew Middleton's take on Mexican fare. His menu is a blend of street tacos, tortas, and starters such as pupusas and ahi tuna tostadas.

Skip the tortas (the bread is too soft and the fillings are unmemorable) and order the tacos. Choose from the dozen offered, but don't miss the duck confit with pickled jalapeño, mango, and cotija cheese. The combo has some heat, but the chile and the fruit work to cut the richness of the duck. Another favorite is the blackened seasonal fish with crunchy poblano-radish slaw. (Also, although it was only offered as a special, I hope the smoky goat swabbed with mole sauce becomes a menu staple.)

In terms of creativity and vibe, Uno Mas is no match for the much-lauded Pinche Tacos[7], but if I lived in the neighborhood, I would frequent the taquería for the trio of complimentary salsas, the house-smoked meats, and, if it makes it onto the regular menu, the goat taco.