Wednesday, May 19, 2010

The Maison Martin Margiela fall/winter 2010 collection is as usual one of my favs. It's a perfect translation of menswear elements into womenswear. Simple yet sophisticated with precise cuts, impeccable finishing and contrasted sheen it suggests a new-found expression of femininity. It's a lot about contrasts - men's classic tailoring and sportswear show a simple front to reveal an exaggerated profile, a flat streamlined surface contrasts with the blown-up effect of a sleeve and hybrind pants-leggings create the illusion of tailored pants at the front but are tights on the back. Wide-legged pants combined with turtlenecks make a strict elegant look while the sheer skirts add a more feminine touch. The entire collection is structured by contrasted texture and fabrics. Dry cotton, starch leather and scratched felted wool are mixed with fluid jersey, chiffon, velvet and cashmere. Mat and shiny, transparency and roughness alternate to meet the feminine and the masculine. Typical menswear artefacts are turned into women's jewelry and accessories like cufflinks that are the embroidery of a cummerbund or turned into rings or bracelets, metal watchbands into maxi-belts and shiny white tie box into evening clutch box. After the confusing spring/summer 10 collection I'm glad that MMM is back on track again and I hope they'll stay there.

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