0

download
Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

0

download
1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt

download
The Rover K-Series engine has now been in production for over 10 years, initially of 1.4 L capacity. Since then 1.1L, 1.6L, 1.8L and 1.8L VVC (Variable Valve Control) have been introduced with an accumulative build of two million engines since 1989. The 1.8L engine is also built under official licence for Lotus and Caterham, and also in the MGF motorsport series. The K-Series is an attractive buy due to its reduced cost and low weight, which is a necessity for sport cars. This report aims to validate Ricardo ENGDYN software with respect to Rover K-Series 1.8 Litre VVC crankshaft durability. The software will be used to output the behaviour of the crankshaft under as realistic conditions as possible. The oil film thickness and bearing load characteristics of the crankshaft through the running range of the engine will be compared to results obtained from in-house software. The torsional and bending vibration output from ENGDYN will then be compared with results obtained from dynamic measurements. Finally, the crank stress and durability results from ENGDYN will be compared to strain gauge measurements at comparative points on the crankshaft. ENGDYN is a computer program used for analysing the dynamics of the engine, and in particular the crankshaft and its interaction with the cylinder block. In this analysis the software will be used to predict the time-domain response of the 3-dimensional vibration of the crankshaft coupled to the block by way of a non-linear oil film. When this loading and motion has been calculated the software can perform a fast Fourier transform to break down the time-domain response into its corresponding frequencies. This allows the results to be post-processed in the frequency domain. 2 Method of Analysis 2.1 Engine Specifications Configuration: in-line 4 Fuel: Gasoline Cylinder bore: 80 mm Piston stroke: 89.3 mm Swept volume: 1.8L Crankpin Peak Power: 107 KW @ 7000 rpm Peak Torque: 174 N/m @ 4500 rpm Engine running range: 750-7200 rpm 2.2 Component Modelling 2.2.1 Crankshaft To perform the analysis within ENGDYN two crankshaft models were created. These included a complete stiffness representation of the crank (excluding the crank nose hub and the flywheel), and a detailed model of the crank from main bearing 4 to main bearing 5, with mesh density increased around the fillets. ENGDYN can however perform crank analysis of any portion of the crank as long as the model incorporates at least two main journal bearings. Features such as bolt holes and oil drilling were omitted on both models, which were meshed using solid tetrahedral elements

0

download
1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Disconnect the fuse holder from the battery – both the positive ( +) and negative ( -) sides. 4. Cut the wire to the light that is not working with the side cutters. 5. At the problem light twist the light case back and forth slowly and then pull firmly, DO NOT yank to remove from the motorcycle. 6. If the motorcycle led light does not come off easily, repeat the twisting motion back and froth until you feel the light loosen – then pull. 7. Pull the motorcycle led light away from the motorcycle slowly until the cut end of wire falls free. 8. If you will NOT be using your motorcycle until the new lights arrive, you may stop at this step. SAFETY POINT: Otherwise, where you cut the wire, you need to dead end or tape the cut wire. This will keep it from shorting out until the new motorcycle led light is installed. 9. Reconnect fuse holder to battery. 10. Reconnect the battery and then install the seat. 11. Return the motorcycle led light or lights to Renegade Lights along with Warranty Return Policy Form. 12. Renegade Lights will return your new motorcycle led lights along with instructions for installing them.

download
THE WASHING PROCESS Allow the motorcycle to cool to the touch. Cool water can damage a hot motorcycle. 1. Pre-Wash: a. Verify the motorcycle is cool to the touch. b. Rinse the motorcycle from the bottom up. c. Verify you have the proper cleaning supplies. d. Spray on Bug Remover and let the product activate while proceeding to the next step. 2. Wheels and Tires: a. Rinse wheel and tire surfaces. b. Apply Wheel and Tire Cleaner. c. Wait one minute after spraying product. d. Clean wheel with a Soft Detailing Pad or Wheel and Spoke Brush. e. Rinse well. 3. The Wash: a. Have two buckets; one for the cleaner and one for rinsing. b. Pour Sunwash into the Harley-Davidson Cleaning Bucket and fill with water. c. Fill the rinsing bucket with clean, plain water. d. Soak the Wash Mitt in the Sunwash solution. e. Wash all surfaces from the top working down. f. Rinse from the bottom up first. g. End with top down rinse. 4. Drying the Motorcycle: a. Use the Soft Drying Towel to dry surfaces of the motorcycle. b. Dampen the towel in clean water. c. Wring out the towel as often as needed and continue until the surface is completely dry. 5. The Polish and Seal : (not applicable for denim paint finishes) Polishing and sealing isn’t just about good looks . A well cared-for motorcycle repels dust, dirt, bugs and dirty water. a. Use Harley Glaze polish and sealant and follow the instructions on the bottle. b. Use Softcloth disposable towels for application. c. A Softcloth or Microfiber detailing cloth is an absolute must for finish buffing. d. In between Harley Glaze applications, use Harley Spray Cleaner and Polish and Harley Gloss to maintain shine and protection of painted and chrome fin- ishes.

0

download
Vengeance Warrior • Vengeance Raider • Vengeance Vertebreaker • Vengeance Striker • Vengeance Vendetta • Vengeance Vindicator Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Always apply both the front and the rear brakes at the same time. If necessary, apply them hard, but not so hard that you lock up either wheel. A locked wheel, as well as causing the bike to skid, results in downright inefficient braking. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.)

download
1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Your new motorcycle LED lights are polarity sensitive–meaning that the RED wires on the LEDs must be hooked to the Positive (+) terminal and the BLACK wires must be hooked to the Ground (-) . All Red Wires must go to a common power wire and ALL Black Wires must go to a common ground. You cannot run the LED motorcycle lights in a series nor can you run the wires from one motorcycle LED light to another in a loop type installation. ( All of the wires on the motorcycle LED lights which you install will end up together in one place at your battery.) 4. Pick a hidden flat surface around the front of your seat area to mount the switch. ( You must be able to reach the switch when the seat and/or side covers are back on your bike.) You will install your switch later using the double-sided tape provided to you. 5. Next, begin choosing the locations where you would like to mount your motorcycle LED lights. Choose areas which will give you the most light coverage overall, but which will allow the motorcycle LED lights itself to be hidden from easy view when you are standing back and looking at the bike. 6. Clean each area where you choose to place a motorcycle LED light with the alcohol based cleaner making sure all dirt and/or oil is removed from that area

0

download
1. can be adjusted to fit the wheel length. The Motorcycle Stand will fit most standard motorcycles currently on the market. However, some models with especially wide tires or custom low-profile front fenders will not fit. Mount the Support Arm (4) to the front of the Base using 2 Bolts (12), Washers 2. (5), and Nuts (6). Insert Pin (9) through the mounting holes and Cradle Stop (3); secure with Wash- 3. er (10) and R Pin (11). Insert Pin (9) through the mounting holes and Wheel Adapter (2); secure with 4. Washer (10) and R Pin (11). Securely tighten all hardware before use. 5. the Motorcycle stand must be mounted securely before use. 6. Page 5 SKU 97841 For technical questions, please call 1-800-444-3353. Mounting in concrete Choose a location to install the Motorcycle Stand that is flat, level, and capable of 1. bearing the combined weight of the Motorcycle Stand and the motorcycle being secured. The location should not obstruct walkways and provide enough room to retrieve the motorcycle after it is mounted. The surface of the location should be one suitable for the mounting of heavy equipment. Use the mounting holes in the Base (1) of the Stand as a template. Arrange the 2. Base in the chosen location and mark where the holes are to be drilled. You will need concrete anchors (not included) to secure the Base to the concrete 3. floor. Using the correct size concrete drill bit (not included), drill the mounting holes to secure the Base. Attach the concrete anchors to the floor. Secure the Base to the floor using con- 4. crete anchors.

0

download
For best service, you should incorporate an oiler, regulator, and inline filter, as shown in the diagram on the next page. Hoses, couplers, oilers, regulators, and filters are all available at Harbor Freight Tools. NOTE: If an automatic oiler is not used, put 3-5 drops of pneumatic Tool Oil (not included) in the Motorcycle Lift’s Quick Coupler (38A) before each use. (See Figure B, next page.) To Check The Level Of Hydraulic Oil: 1. The Motorcycle Lift already contains some hydraulic oil in its Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). Even so, it is recommended that you check the oil level in the Reservoir and, if necessary, top off the Reservoir with the proper amount of 15/40 hydraulic oil (not included). (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 2. Make sure to screw the two Adjusting Screws clockwise enough to lift the two Caster Wheels (14) off the floor so as to provide stability for the Motorcycle Lift. (See Figure A.) 3. To check the level of hydraulic oil, remove the Sliding Plate (36) from the Platform (35) to expose the Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). (See Assy. Diagrams, pages 13 and 15.) 4. Remove the rubber Filler Plug (33P) located on the top of the Reservoir (32P). If necessary, top off the Reservoir with hydraulic oil. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 5. Connect the air compressor’s hose to the to the Air Motor assembly. Then turn on the air compressor and set its regulator at 120 PSI. (See Assy. Diagram, page 14.) 5. Insert the Lift Foot Pedal (11) onto the Pump Piston Spindle (9), and slowly pump the Lift Foot Pedal until a slight amount of hydraulic oil begins to leak out of the Reservoir (32P). Discontinue pumping the Lift Foot Pedal. Then, replace the Filler Plug (33P) on the top of the Reservoir. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) REGULATOR OILER FILTER TO QUICK COUPLER (38A) OF MOTORCYCLE LIFT FIGURE B 6. Insert the Release Foot Pedal (10) onto the Release Valve Spindle (5). Pump the Lift Foot Pedal (11) until the Platform (35) of the Motorcycle Lift reaches its maximum height. Then press down slightly on the Release Foot Pedal until the Platform is fully collapsed to the floor. Repeat this procedure several times to ensure the Motorcycle Lift is operating properly. (See Figure E, page 10.)