The Soda Jerk makes a pop in Milford mall

Published 11:21 pm, Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Owner John Kissane welcomes people to the Soda Jerk, an old fashioned soda fountain, at the Connecticut Post Mall in Milford, Conn. on Sunday, November 18, 2012.

Owner John Kissane welcomes people to the Soda Jerk, an old fashioned soda fountain, at the Connecticut Post Mall in Milford, Conn. on Sunday, November 18, 2012.

Photo: BK Angeletti, B.K. Angeletti

The Soda Jerk makes a pop in Milford mall

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MILFORD -- Inspired by the late 19th century, The Soda Jerk, in the food court of the Milford Westfield Connecticut Post Mall, offers a throwback to the traditional soda fountains of centuries past.

Owned by former intelligence officer John Kissane, the Soda Jerk offers anywhere from 30 to 36 flavors of soda and cotton candy boasting "all natural sugar" in place of corn syrup.

"I read about soda fountains as a child and I've always been fascinated with the idea that you could make your own soda," Kissane said.

Kissane researched the history of soda fountains and said they originated in pharmacies as a way to offset foul-tasting medicines.

Until the 1950s, Kissane said, soda fountains were found in every pharmacy across the country but, he said, with the emergence of bottled sodas, fountains slowly disappeared.

"Soda fountains transitioned into diners and ice cream parlors," he said. "There are probably about four or five traditional soda fountains left in the world." The Soda Jerk has traditional soda flavors like root beer, cream soda and cola, but also offers inspired creations like chocolate raspberry, sarsaparilla, pumpkin spice and buttered popcorn.

The flavors can also be used for cotton candy, which is hand spun to order, Kissane said.

"We are the only place in the world to offer 36 flavors of cotton candy," Kissane said.

The Soda Jerk also offers soda floats, milkshakes, and signature soda fountain drinks like a lime rickey made with lime soda and bitters, and Shirley Temples.

Also, grilled sandwiches like the Spinach Caprese and the Chocolate Fluffernutter are made to order at The Soda Jerk.

"You get everything made exactly how you like it," Kissane said. "It's been a hard concept to get across." Any of The Soda Jerks' five employees can be found dressed head to toe in Steampunk, or Victorian science-fiction garb.

"When I posted job listings I purposely posted them on forums for Steampunk enthusiasts. I give each employee a stipend to either buy or make a costume," he said.

For Jason Parry, of Stratford, being able to create a costume to wear to work was the major draw for applying to The Soda Jerk.

"I was able to design my own Steampunk costume and a lot of people respond to us, the way we're dressed," Parry said. "There's so many corporate chains in the mall and this is a nice little throwback to the old soda fountains."

Kissane said the response to his neo-vintage soda fountain has been strong.

"There's not a lot of new business ideas in malls," he said. "Older people have come in and said, `wow I haven't seen one of these in 30 to 40 years. They find it refreshing."