unplug the switch under the hood, its usually the culpritits on the radiator support, a little rubber button thingy that gets pushed down by the hood.sometimes the rubber is gone and a little white thing is sticking up.-luke-

What Luke said it right. The most common cause I've found that makes it go off is the underhood switch. If you want to disable it you've got to either ground a wire on the trunk latch or maybe short two of them together. The answer has been stated on here a few times.

John

"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.Posts: 13235 | From: Orange County, NY | Member Since: 09/11/03 | IP: (70.107.83.56) |

boostola Unregistered

posted 11/21/06 08:15 PM

Ground the factory alarm disarm wire in the kickpanel and the alarm will stay disarmed. The wire will meter as a negative trigger when the key is turned to the unlock position in the driver door. Anyone remember what color it is?

I found this thread a couple weeks ago and it jinxed me. The horn on mine doesn't work, but this afternoon, while buying some smokes, the damn thing started honking all feeble and sickly-like.

I assume the grounding the sensor in the trunk or unplugging the hood sensor are ways to disable the alarm when it's getting false triggers from those points, while grounding the wire in the fuse box is an overall fix, correct?

I'm seriously tired of this alarm.....where is this wire in the kickpanel or which whire in the trunk do I need to cut/ground or wutever? Anyone w/ pics or anythin? I've been leaving my battery cable kinda loose so I can jump out and pull it to get it to stop. KInda embarrassin. Any help?

There is a search button at the top of this page in bold. This topic has been covered many times.

Open your trunk and look up at the lock mechanism on the trunk. There are 2 wires going to the lock. These wires disable the alarm when you open the trunk with a key. You need to cut these two wires. Now, splice the two wires together (not the pieces still attached to the lock). This should permantly disable the alarm assuming your wiring is in good shape. I don't know the kick panel method off the top of my head, it's not as easy to remember.

I have unplugged the button under the hood and spliced the wires in the trunk. Everything seemed fine for the past 2 days until a few hours ago when the dumb thing went off again. Is there any other way to get rid of this thing? Right now I have my battery terminal lose so I can yank it if it goes off but this causes a prob cuz sometimes I have to get out and jiggle it to start the car. I've done searches plenty of times on this subject and seen about a wire in the kickpanel but I need to know which wire or what else I can try cuz this is very annoying.

I saw an old post and it showed a relay under the dash and in the pic he has one listed as alarm. If I pull it will it kill just the alarm or other things also? I'm gonna check into my doors to see about the switches in it hard-wiring them if I can't pull that fuse w/o losing other things.

Quote:Ground the factory alarm disarm wire in the kickpanel and the alarm will stay disarmed. The wire will meter as a negative trigger when the key is turned to the unlock position in the driver door. Anyone remember what color it is?

I also need to find this wire so I can install my remote start... and this is what I came up with by searching... anyone know?

LT4mula this is what I come up w/ everytime I search also and so far all I seem to get when I ask is the trunk and hood or someone saying to search like that hasn't been tried 1000's of times....I did find one where hertz had posted 3 links to ways to disable it but the links didn't work. So no solution to fix it though and I've done trunk and hood w/ no success

Unplugging hood switch takes care of one alarm. Shorting the trunk wires takes care of another. But neither will resolve an issue with the door alarm system. I don't know how you do that (fortunately my similar alarm issue was related to the trunk).

Hood and trunk fixes will take care of most alarm issues. But some folks do have problems with door switches. So who among the veterins here will step up and help the newbies out on this one?