Nice looking car. The engine numbers are certainly inline with what is expected to be original. Just no proof that it is. Sometimes that's the best you can do.

I understand how some people insist on having the original engine when the most common first question asked at a car show is always "is it numbers matching" even when that person has no real idea what they are looking at. Why is it so important to you on a non high HP car? The value in this car is that the top goes down and it's a sharp looking blue!

I see the buyer paid 39,960 with fees at BJ in 2005, but that also means the seller sold it for ~32,900.

Also looks like it also sold at another auction just before BJ where the current owner bought it. Perhaps a dealer/flipper. What do you think it's worth today?

What appears to be correct and original:From the data provide, the engine appears to be original to the car. The cowl tag date of 09C (production 3rd week of Sept 1966) and the engine data are compatible with one another. The block casting #3903352 is a 1967 327 ci, 2-bolt block, Block Cast on August 23, 1966 (H236). Tonawanda engine assembly on 6 September into a MM code assembly (327 ci wtih PG trans). Most likely an original stamp, but stamp pad should be inspected for correct broach marks. The '462' heads and the dates of Aug 5 and Aug 6, are compatible with the 1967 year and the date for the engine assembly.It has Drum brakes and PS (most probably original although evidence not provided). The deluxe (blue) interior is most probably reproduction original type. The F paint code is correct for Marina blue.What is not correct for 1967?The intake is stated to be a '69 Z28 (2472 intake?) and carburetor from a '68 Z (4053 carb?) are obviously NOT original to this car or engine (but are worth considerably more than what it would cost to buy the original manifold and carb for the car.) The HEI distributor is not original for the '67 engine. The car supposedly was 'restored' (ie. rebuilt) during 2003-4 and quarters were replaced (due to rust or collision damage?) that bears a closer inspection to determine the quality of that work. The ZL2 type hood on the car is not original for the 1967 model year.

I didn't realize my simple question would have this much of a snowball effect but I'm glad it did. To answer Ragtop's questions, and I don't want to sound like an arrogant jack@, but I would prefer the original engine simply because that is what I prefer. I don't want someone else's idea of better then the original. As for what I think it's worth, That is the reason that I am asking these questions on here. I'm doing my best to come up with a number that both the seller and myself are comfortable with. I appreciate the info on the BJ auction as I didn't know how much the buyer fee's were as well as the other auction info.

What the guys are trying to explain is; that the numbers as far as what the factory provided, do all match up. But, those numbers are for the most part, only date codes. But, that being said is all that the factory provided for that particular car. I am pretty much in the same boat. I am 99% positive my car has the "born with" engine, can I absolutely prove it? NO! But I purchased my car in '86 and it had not been restored, it was a little rough and had been just sitting in an Apple Orchard for 3 or 4 years. Every # that I did find upon restoring the car and rebuilding the Engine matched. But again, we are only talking Date codes. (That is all that can be confirmed) I tell anybody that is interested that it is the original engine. Just my 2 c's.

Thanks Red as well as all who have offered their expertise. I do feel confident that the car in question does have its original engine and thus I have a better idea of what kind of offer to make on the car. Judging by the number of views this conversation has, I'm not quite sure if its still available.