As I am collecting parts and fabbing up the first production run of these trailers, I'll learn what they really cost to build. After this initial run, I'll modify the webpage to have prices and make it so people can actually purchase trailers. I do know the trailers after the first five will be more than $500.... So far it's looking like they will be closer to $700, but that's not yet for sure, obviously I'm not done building the first five yet!

I do have a teaser pic of frame #001.. I sent this over to my friend at ProCycle, he's buying this one and has been whining ever since I asked for the prototype back....

The lower one is the prototype. You can see that the production models will be 3" longer in the mid-section to clear bulkier licence plate/tail light assemblies. I've been building welding fixtures all week, the upper frame is the first one built on these fixtures. Obviously still a lot to do.... As I mentioned earlier, the first five will come with a fender which I am still hammering out the details on... Fun, Fun, Fun!!!

As I am collecting parts and fabbing up the first production run of these trailers, I'll learn what they really cost to build. After this initial run, I'll modify the webpage to have prices and make it so people can actually purchase trailers. I do know the trailers after the first five will be more than $500.... So far it's looking like they will be closer to $700, but that's not yet for sure, obviously I'm not done building the first five yet!

The lower one is the prototype. You can see that the production models will be 3" longer in the mid-section to clear bulkier licence plate/tail light assemblies. I've been building welding fixtures all week, the upper frame is the first one built on these fixtures. Obviously still a lot to do.... As I mentioned earlier, the first five will come with a fender which I am still hammering out the details on... Fun, Fun, Fun!!!

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I'm really glad I got in on this when I did. After looking into the cost of a decent pannier setup, I really think this is a more viable option for my DR650. I'm really excited to give one of these a go!

Here's a pic of each side of my rear axle. Let me know if you need anything else.

I'm really glad I got in on this when I did. After looking into the cost of a decent pannier setup, I really think this is a more viable option for my DR650. I'm really excited to give one of these a go!

Here's a pic of each side of my rear axle. Let me know if you need anything else.

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All that you will need is a fuji style nut to replace your castle nut and cotter pin. I will supply you with one. I bought a few from procycle the other day.

the hole in the axle will fit a 3/8" shaft almost all the way thru. I think I will have to drill the last couple of inches out by a 1/16" or so. the axle has a taper to it.

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This could be exciting news! However, do you think it's safe to drill it out? I have not looked at the XR650R axle myself, I quickly looked at the XR650L axle and ruled it out. Would you be willing to post some pics of your axle and the Outside and Inside dimensions, and the overall length? Best if you could remove it for the measuring and pics... If not, no worries, I'll get ahold of one soon.

The rod is 3/8" in Diameter and the axle needs to be between 10-1/2" to 11-1/2" overall length. I may make other sizes in the future, but that width fits many common dual sport bikes.... DR650, DRZ400, KLR650 (with special hitch), many KTM's, newer Husabergs, WR250R/X....

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Darn, my Dakar has a tapered axle hole - about 1/4" at the narrowest end.

This could be exciting news! However, do you think it's safe to drill it out? I have not looked at the XR650R axle myself, I quickly looked at the XR650L axle and ruled it out. Would you be willing to post some pics of your axle and the Outside and Inside dimensions, and the overall length? Best if you could remove it for the measuring and pics... If not, no worries, I'll get ahold of one soon.

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I will try and pull the axle clean it up and take some acurate measurements of length and ID at both ends. I will use some drill bits to try and get a profile of the ID end to end. I dont want to modify the BRP axle if I don't have to. close to the end where the nut tighens the axle it narrows to 11/32 or maybe to 5/16.

I was considering the tapered ID of the axle. I was thinking of making a tapered bushing or possilby a tapered axle. My concern is that the trailer axle will not stay square to the bike frame or cause the trailer axle to bend in the bike axle.

Are the axles welded to the frame or are they removable? Have you completed the first 5 yet?

Thanks for all the compliments guys! I'm excited, the first production one is much more refined than the prototype.

Yes, it's very easy to attach and remove, no tools are required. The hitch pin is just a long 3/8" bolt that inserts from one side and threads into a nut on the other side. The head of the bolt has large wings so you can tighten it by hand and the nut is fixed to the hitch on the other side. There is a safety device that keeps it from comming undone while riding.

While your motorcycle is on it's kickstand, you move the trailer into position and insert the hitch pin (long bolt). If the trailer has a heavy load, it's easier with two people, one to steady the trailer and one to insert the hitch pin.

Removing the trailer is just as easy. Park the bike, remove the hitch pin, and lower the trailer to the ground. Again, it's awkward if the trailer is loaded, it can be done, it's just awkward. If I'm by myself, I just unload most of the weight out of the trailer before installing or removing it.

I do NOT recommend modifing the Hitch Pin to fit a bike with a smaller ID rear axle. If you lathe down the hitch pin, you will remove the threads that hold it in place. I will come up with a hitch to fit the Honda XR bikes in the future as these are popular bikes.