As I was finishing my pasta dish, I noticed I’d switched to a spoon, to lick up every bit of the house-made tortellini stuffed with delicate Maine crab, drizzled with a light parmesan crema, surrounded by a hedge of pumpkin passato and liberally showered with fresh herbs: a blissful combination. Luckily, this was only a half-order, as we’d started with two Neapolitan pizzas.