Preparing to ride

Preparing to ride

Getty Images

A surfer makes his move to try and ride a wave off the southern California coast at Seal Beach, south of Los Angeles on May 23, 2012 in California. Surfing was introduced to California in 1907 when George Freeth was brought over from Hawaii to demonstrate surfboard riding as part of a publicity...

A surfer makes his move to try and ride a wave off the southern California coast at Seal Beach, south of Los Angeles on May 23, 2012 in California. Surfing was introduced to California in 1907 when George Freeth was brought over from Hawaii to demonstrate surfboard riding as part of a publicity... (Getty Images)

A surfer makes his move to try and ride a wave off the southern California coast at Seal Beach, south of Los Angeles on May 23, 2012 in California. Surfing was introduced to California in 1907 when George Freeth was brought over from Hawaii to demonstrate surfboard riding as part of a publicity...Getty Images