Fast fashion has come into our world of consumerism and has quickly taken ahold with our everyday practice of buy more, save more – a mantra that first began with the high savings super-stores that bring the global market to everyone’s doorstep with seemingly affordable prices for everything under the sun – a practice that soon became a part of the fashion world in order to bring a seasonal, trend driven market to every household, enticing fashionistas everywhere to buy, buy, buy!

A trend to let us keep up with the trends soon became the rising star and nearly everyone bought in. Giant bags of low-priced and often on-clearance styles (due to mass turnover and over-production) left giant storefronts in enthusiastic march to become closet-clutter-mashups compiled of everything the owners forgot they ever had, thanks to over-consumerism. These were the first days when we started accepting low-craftsmanship, high industrial pollution, low humanitarian, ethical working standards, and a surge in consumption and waste production rates as acceptable norms. BUY MORE, WASTE MORE, BE MORE…WHATERVER THAT MEANS.

Fast fashion – once a downfall of fashion expressionism altogether due to misguided consumer demand and short-sighted shareholders, has now begun to transform into the new dawn of the style world; the forward progression of conscious-consumerism and ethical production practices of the 21st century which will undoubtedly change the way we see the face of fashion forever.

We have finally come to realize that the past mode of fashion is not only heavier on the collective wallet in the long-run but also far more damaging to our environment and poor working nations than we had been falsely led to believe. We have come to resist the pragmatism of the past eras and revolt against a set system (as we humans often love to do), and begin to reshape our world (in fashion or otherwise) in many creative and conscious ways. One example of this change is BeeZee EcoLand, a label that is aware of its impact in every aspect of their business practices, even at the cost of profitability. I recently chat with Bianca Zvorc Morris about her post-traumatic creation, unique and proactive rather than ‘cookie cutter’ and reactive in its model; an approach which lends to the brand’s very unique personality in many ways.

A brand that is truly noteworthy due to the wisdom and empathetic nature of its founder-designer, who above all else makes it her life’s mission to stay true to her ideals as an eco-preneur. In our discussions, the veteran PR executive turned designer and clean-living advocate had this to say:

BZM: While living in NYC in 2009 the economic crisis moved to the EU and a lot of women I know lost their jobs in the textile industry in my birth town in Slovenia. I wanted to do something more in tune with my general ethical convictions and start a project that would use all of my skills to help others and make this planet a better place for all of us. In 2010 we moved to Germany and I got a job in an advertising agency working as an AD/CD [advertising director/creative director for H&M, C&A and Zara. That was the first time I learned how “fast fashion” is toxic and harmful. I left my job and started focusing on BeeZee EcoLand, a project that is supporting three single mothers in Slovenia with earned income.

Coco Eco: Your business model is designed with growth projections purposefully mindful of your brand’s mission as geared towards your personal purpose; why did you choose this model for your brand?

All of my life I was interested in ecology and a healthy, compassionate lifestyle. I like to think global, but wanted to act local. My time on Earth is short so I want to help and make this planet better for all of us – especially the future generations that are inheriting what is unfortunately a truly sad planet. My biggest happiness in life (and a privilege) is to be able to help others – especially children, animals and nature. When I learned about the cruelty and dangers behind fast fashion I had to do something. The topic has received some, but unfortunately not nearly enough, attention in the media. Organic fabrics with the lowest carbon foot print do not cause sickness in people or wildlife with herbicides, pesticides, insecticides, GMO seeds. Fair-trade where people get paid well and work in truly safe conditions were extremely important to me. Only happy people can make clothes that are full of positive energy and love – I like to think they work as a protection shield in many ways for those who wear them.

Coco Eco: How much of an impact, in your opinion, does the dying process of textiles have on the environment?

BZM: The chemicals that we use to produce dyes are highly toxic, carcinogenic or even explosive! Chemical Aniline in AZO dyes are considered to be deadly poisons. Other harmful chemicals are dioxin (hormone disrupter), toxic heavy metals (chrome, zinc, copper…) and formaldehyde that is a carcinogen. They are dangerous for dye workers, cause environmental pollution around these facilities (dump water) [mainly] in underground water – many people in the undeveloped world even drink this kind of water – and the chemicals are not safe for those who wear these clothes – the final consumer!Coco Eco:Why did you choose Slovenia for your production?

BZM: After the economic melt-down made by Wall Street crushed the EU, things went bad and greedy individuals took advantage of the situation and set back the economy and spirit of Slovenia. My seamstresses were laid off from high quality textile factories employing thousands of people who made [high end] clothes. I wanted to give back to and help my people.

Coco Eco: What are some of the types of fabrics you use and why?

BZM: We carry fair-trade and organic certifications, and the coloring has to be either natural, water based or non-toxic, so the selection of fabrics is more narrow. Probably the most sustainable, versatile and incredibly beautiful is OFT Hemp – the magical central European traditional fabric my granny used to grow before plastics took over Europe – processed with modern machines and made into softer new fabrics. I am also a huge fan of bamboo transparent fabrics and bamboo silks.

Coco Eco: What would you like to see more of in the fashion industry?

BZM: Actually, let me [use] some quotes [from Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney, respectively] that pretty much answer that question: “If you wear clothes that don’t suit you, you’re a fashion victim.” I am obsessed with that in my designing process. I love form and functionality, fashion for [the sake of] fashion drives me nuts. “I just use fashion as an excuse to talk about politics. Because I’m a fashion designer, it gives me a voice, which is really good.” In my case I use fashion to try and stop social and economic injustices, and to educate the masses. “People have never looked so ugly as they do today. We just consume far too much.” I despise fast fashion and what it does to people and our planet. Twelve tons of clothes are thrown in the garbage per year, in the USA alone! That is insane. “Everyone can do simple things to make a difference, and every little bit really does count.” Even if you spend only $5 on something you buy, something good or something cruel, think before you buy. “As a designer, I like to work with fabrics that don’t bleed; that’s why I avoid all animal skins and parts.”

Coco Eco: How important do you think it is for entrepreneurs to have a conscious perspective in their ventures?

BZM: In today’s dark times for our planet – wildlife destruction, deforestation, water shortages, over population, social injustices, climate change – it should be EVERYBODY’S PRIORITY. Sadly, greed for profits and willful ignorance often dominate the fashion industry. We have only one planet that is dying fast and money will be worthless when our planet is a desert littered [and] toxic.

Inspired by Africa’s transition from being considered the ‘dark continent’ to the ‘bearer or light’, Bantu Wax was created to merge the rich history of African art and textiles with Africa’s deeply rooted surf culture. Using tales of the mermaid goddess of the ocean, Mami Wata, and a passion for surfing, the collection features rich, colorful prints and patterns for swimwear. Brilliant repeats, graphic patterns and floral motifs adorn the simple clean lines of the swimwear, using the swimsuit as a blank canvas to showcase the brilliance of African art.The Bantu collection is made entirely in Africa by Africans. Making the collection sustainably and fairly is a founding principle of the brand. Bantu Wax are a symbol of the change in Africa, and one of a range of talented designers, artists and musicians finally coming to the attention of the world. An exuberance of chaotic, serenity, modern, urban, ancient, sacred, and sexy, the brand, much like Africa itself, will not be contained, pigeon holed or labeled!Bantu works with traditional processes with local vendors and artisans in Africa to make their quality swimwear and accessories for women and men. The collection appeals to the burgeoning number of Africans (over half a billion) under the age of twenty years of age. Africa is the future. The line is designed for authentic surfers, as well as urban nomads and afro-punks alike.

Zarif Designs, based in Kabul Afghanistan, employ and train 52 local Afghan men and women to practice handcrafted work and the art of slow production. All fabrics for the collection are sourced from Afghanistan and Central Asia, and feature traditional hand woven textiles and intricate hand embroidery. Zarif aims to preserve the traditional of Afghan handcraft by merging them with a modern aesthetic to produce a fashion collection that is distinctive and timeless.

Zarif jackets and coats combine the elegance of traditional textiles and clothing with contemporary Western style, to offer a collection featuring hand-embroidered mandalas, and distinctive borders. The brightly colored “chapan” materials create practical and magnificently finished jackets in a range of rich, unexpected stripes, and are helping to revive the tradition of Afghan craftsmanship. Zarif are also fostering fair-trade practices, and working with natural dyes. At its core Zarif acts as an ambassador sharing the rich cultural heritage of Afghanistan and its people with the rest of the world, providing a platform where traditional high-quality craftsmanship is a source of economic opportunity and personal fulfillment.

Initially part of the Persian empire, Afghanistan has been subject to Soviet occupation, and civil war for decades. Originally part of the Silk Road, the country has a long and rich history and textile heritage. The Zarif collection aims to preserve this tradition by merging it with a modern aesthetic to create fashion that is distinctive as well as timeless. Jackets and coats are beautifully tailored, reminiscent of moghul styling and featuring richly embroidered mandarin collars, deep flared cuffs and intricate belts and bands. Sleeves and jacket backs sport suzanni style mandalas and Arabic scrolls, with others showcase the beauty and delicacy of calligraphy. A men’s line of jackets are sleek, tailored and militaristic in styling with narrow mandarin collars with metal buttons and bright scarlet piping, facings and lining. Dramatic and sleek, the capsule is the perfect compliment to the more extravagant embroidery on the women’s line.

The Founder, Zolay Sherzad was born in Kabul, becoming a political refugee in Switzerland by age 10. After graduating from the School of Architecture in Lausanne, and working as an architect for companies in Switzerland, Japan and New York, she was wanted to give back to her homeland, leading to Zarif Design’s founding in 2005, with the intent to revive traditional skills such as textile weaving and embroidery. Zolaukha also founded the ‘School of Hope (SoH)’, a not for profit organization sponsoring education in Afghanistan.

Zolaykha has since presented her collections at fashion shows in Paris, London, Milan, New York and New Delhi. In September 2014 Zolaykha was nominated by the World Fashion Week as the Official Haute Couture Representative for Afghanistan. She has collaborated with Agnes Bpresenting capsule collections at her stores, showing her menswear collection at Agnes B’s men’s collection in Paris this year. She also has collaborated with TSE Cashmere, designed the costumes for two shows, “One Thousand Nights” in Toronto, and “The Comedy of Errors” at the Globe in London, and had her designs featured in the film The Reluctant Fundamentalist starring Kate Hudson . . . All while taking it slow in Kabul.

African fashion brand KISUA specializes in showcasing the continent’s brightest design talent to the rest of the world, creating exclusive capsule collections in collaboration with African designers. KISUA is the only African fashion company with distribution centers across three continents to serve customers in Africa, America and Europe. Inspired by the sights, sounds and tastes of Africa, KISUA blend traditional techniques and materials with a contemporary design aesthetics. The name KISU means a ‘well dressed person’ in Swahili.

KISUA’s aim is to provide a sustainable platform for African designers, so they can gain access the international market. They fund designer collaborations through the KISUA Designer Fund, and provide financial support by paying a portion of every sale directly to the designer. Establishing large-scale manufacturing capabilities have helped them overcome infrastructural hurdles, and ensure the seamless delivery of African fashion to the world.

The majority of KISUA’s sourcing and production takes place in Africa, and they are passionate about doing business in an ethical and responsible way. KISUA implement strict sourcing standards to ensure good working conditions for their workers and partners. Fabrics are predominately sourced form African suppliers, who are paid fairly and honestly. Paying special attention to their social impact, KISUA support and nurture local businesses and communities. Inspired by the strength and spirit of African women everywhere, KISUA work hard to create economic opportunities for women through their supply chain.

Founder Sam Mensah Jr comes from a background in banking and financial analysis., as well as being an advisor to the African Union. With a belief that Africa could offer the world a fresh perspective on style, Mensah built this international ecommerce platform to support African fashion reach global customers and to create opportunities for African designers. KISUA has gone on to gain the trust and support of renowned Savile Row tailor Ozwald Boateng, the founder of Lagos Fashion and Design Week, Omoyemi Akerele, as well as being a personal favorite of Beyonce and her sister, Solange.

You can take the girl out of England, but you’ll never take England out of the girl, as they say, and no truer is word was ever said than when it comes to a British lass and her home comforts . . . Like fish & chips . . .

However, despite my patriotic calling, this dish is not one often found on my menu being high in fat, cholesterol, carbohydrates, and nowadays having a dubious question mark around the source and quality of the fish. What joy of joys to then find Hook, a reinvention of the classic British fish & chip joint, in bustling Camden, London

As you would expect from anything discovered in Camden, Hook is ahead of the crowd. Such is the draw of this iconic Borough of London, that since the early seventies it has become synonomous with iconoclastic British culture, notably rock n’ roll and fashion, and is the home of the legendary Camden Market. Keeping one step ahead, Hook has now also expanded into another infamous London community, Brixton.

Founded by Simon Whiteside and Barry Wallace, Hook was born as a simple market stall in Dublin n 2011, making a name for themselves with a unique, “new-school” take on fish and chips. With a commitment to serving delicious, high quality food sourced from the best, local suppliers and working with 100% sustainable fisheries , Hook reinvents fast food as good food. This restaurant is so off-the-hook, that it was featured on the U.S. Food Network’s hit show, Diners, Drive-In’s and Diveswith host, Guy Fieri.

Bringing a new twist to an old classic, fish is seasoned to perfection with hand-crafted herbs and spices, then dipped in delicate panko breadcrumbs and tempura battered; the beloved British side, mushy peas, is given a makeover with an infusion of fresh mint, and all of their sauces including tartar, ketchup, truffle, Chipotle, and basil and chili, are hand-made using special herbs and seasonings.

Sustainability is at the heart of this quintessentially modern, British restaurant brand, who are SRA-acredited and incorporate both water aid and fair-trade ethics in their commitment to operating a responsible business.

From 100% biodegradable corn-starch cutlery, and reusable, reclaimed wood, service boxes, to sharing education about sustainability with local schools and colleges, Hook’s commitment is to reflect their love of the Earth and its communities, in everything they do.

And with a simple core brand ethos of “awesome food, served by amazing people, in fantastic locations. It’s how it all began, and it’s how we will stay,” how could we be anything other than hooked?

Launched in 2013, SeeMe produce sleek heart shaped jewelry handcrafted by female victims of violence. The jewelry is produced in Tunisia and Turkey by women trained as artisans, and coming from the shelter home run by the Aal association in Tunis and by the Keid association in Ankara. Fair trade certified, SeeMe empowers women victims of violence to lead independent lives through the provision of sustainable work, aiming at bridging the gap between luxury and fair trade. Certified by the World Faire Trade Organization, SeeMe operates in accordance with the WFTO 10 Fair Trade principles.

Deceptively simple lines focus on the linear purity of the shape of the heart, large gold or silver heart shaped pendants are casually hung through long chains, are curiously wrapped around the wrist and double back over fingers. Produced in silver and gold, the main collection features hearts of all shapes and sizes. The precious fine jewelry collection is produced with the skill of Armenian diamond setters in Lebanon and decorated with semi-precious stones in a variety of colors. The highlight of the collection is the unique wrap ring, conceived by the Dutch designer Peter Bedner.

Developed as part of a UNIDO project supporting creative and cultural industries in the South Mediterranean region, SeeMe’s first fine jewelry collection will be produced with ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative support. SeeMe is in the process of setting up a workshop to train, employ and welcome Lebanese and Palestinian women who have suffered violence. The SeeMe model is based on the conviction that charity is not sustainable, and independent income is required to achieve long-term, positive change.

The result of a decade of work in the Middle East and North Africa, founder Caterina Occhio was a development aid manager specializing in social inclusion for 15 years, experienced in supporting employment and institutional reform. Working extensively for the European Commission, and a variety of UN agencies, she specialized in the socio-economic integration of women, and helped pioneer the fair luxury movement.

SeeMe has garnered a serious fan base through the support of the likes of Suzy Menkes, and Angela and Rosita Missoni, and the collection is sold a Colette – Paris, Luisa Via Roma – Firenze, Excelsior – Roma, Biffi – Milano, Joyce – Hong Kong, and Beaker – Seoul, to name just a few of the iconic retail outlets. “Wear one. Give one. Support one.” Join the #heartmovement.

Gather & See curate collections from the best in sustainable fashion from around the world, showcasing sustainable fashion in a fresh and innovative way. The e-Commerce site features designers that pride themselves on their aesthetics as much as their ethics. Dissapointed in market offerings of conscious fashion, Gather & See founders Stephanie and Alicia decided they didn’t want to compromise their love of fashion, and so the e-Commerce site was born. Drawing attention to the disconnect between high street shopping and the production process, the site features a wide range of cutting edge design from organic and recycled fabrics, hand made, fairly traded, or produced in small runs.

Recognizing a gap in the market, Gather&See brands challenge the concept of ethical fashion and eco-luxury accessories. The e-Commerce site features cutting edge brands such as Kowtow, Feral Childe, Mercado Global, Goodone, and Quazi Design. Building quite a loyal following, they welcome like-minded fashion lovers from all over the world, and have elicited recognition from the Financial Times, the Telegraph, Observer, Guardian and many more.

UMASAN ASYMMETRICAL COAT – Simplicity is at the heart of this Berlin fashion label, which meticulously melds cutting edge design, functionality and ecoconsciousness. Who says you can’t have it all? $702, Umasan-berlin.com

ADA ECO SUNGLASSES BY PROOF EYEWEAR – The days may be getting shorter, but you’re brighter than ever, sunshine. So bright, you gotta wear shades–shades made from sustainably-sourced wood, that is. $130, Iwantproof.com

FALABELLA MINI TOTE BY STELLA MCCARTNEY – A longtime trailblazer, Stella continues to crush it in the cutting edge meets animal-friendly fashion game. A part of her #FurFreeFur campaign, this lil’ number has glam written all over it. $1400, Stellamccartney.com

TRES PURE’S FACE SERUM – Tres Pure has put together a delectably clean concoction of nourishing oils (among them blueberry, papaya and carrot). Be sure to get your essential serving of fruits and veggies–and to slather some on your face. $140, Trespure.com

By Beth Doane, Features Editor

If You Love Chocolate, This Brand Is Heaven On Earth.

Alter Eco is a pioneer of globally crafted organic foods, including delicious
Swiss-made chocolate bars and truffles, Bolivian Royal quinoa, heirloom Thai rice and ascobado cane sugar. Their collection is beyond delicious but what we really love is that all Alter Eco products are 100% USDA Certified Organic, Fair Trade Certified, Carbon Neutral Certified, Non-GMO Project Verified and Certified Gluten-Free. The brand is also recognized as certified Benefit Corporation, and highly dedicated to sustainability throughout its operations and supply chain. So it seems you can have your chocolate and eat it too . . . As long as it’s Alter Eco!

Nomads Clothing Is A Fair Trade, Fashion Clothing Line With A Conscience.

The easy wear collection has an understated boho chic aesthetic, with tons of exuberant and colorful prints, riffing off of ikat, florals and block prints, and rounded out with pin tucks, embroidery and patchwork. Styling is soft, feminine, flattering and comfortable, taking you from day to evening, work to home; these are clothes to live your life in. The clothing line centers around cotton, with every growing percentage of it organically sourced, and all of it fair trade.

Partners Duncan and Vicky met while backpacking around India in the 80’s. With only £200 left between them, they decided to use the money to fill a trunk full of wonderful Indian clothing, before heading to the UK to sell them. The pair soon returned to India with the profits they made, mixing business with pleasure by staying at Buddhist retreats, discovering crafts at local markets, and picking up handmade fabrics en route. A shared love of India and its culture motivated them to start Nomads Clothing. Inspired by Indian craftwork, they create styles suitable for the European market.

Nomads has over twenty years of experience producing fair trade clothing, helping maintain a sustainable living for the producers and makers of their clothing. Their love of Indian crafts is helping to sustain tradition, including block printing and patchwork, which are incorporated into their collection. Always working to find new ways to lessen their impact, Nomads promise no child labor, gender equity, fair living wages, safe working conditions, vacation time, and also paying their producers in advance. All dyes are AZO free, fabrics are recycled into bags, and they use biodegradable postbags to lessen their environmental impact.