Propane Grill Regulator Problem??

Have an older Sunbeam propane grill with a dual main burner and one side burner.
So three controls where:
1- is the side burner,
2- is the left side of the main burner and
3- is the right side of the main burner

If I have either 1, 2 or 3 lit, I get a full flame.

But as soon as I have any combination of them lit, the flame diminishes big time on all.

I checked all venturis and there are no spider webs or obstructions. I even removed the valves from the burners therefore elimintating any clogs and reattached to propane tank. You can hear the decrease in the "hissing" sound when 2 of the valves are on.

Propane tank is newly filled and propane tank operates fine on other grill.

Get a TEC http://tecinfrared.com/. Up to temp to cook in 5-minutes, even temp over the entire surface, almost entirely IR so things do not dry out - cooks fast - works just fine in the winter at really low temps as the IR doesn't care.

Get a TEC http://tecinfrared.com/. Up to temp to cook in 5-minutes, even temp over the entire surface, almost entirely IR so things do not dry out - cooks fast - works just fine in the winter at really low temps as the IR doesn't care.

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I looked at the infrared ones also. Was not impressed or swayed to go that route. Looked like a lot of cleanup.

After finishing, turn it up to high, let it sit for maybe 10-minutes, everything turns to ash...wipe it off. Cleanup couldn't be easier. Now, this company's original burner, now off patent protection, is being used by lots of companies because it is better than a conventional burner (it's about 35% IR, charcoal is about 25% and one reason it cooks better than a regular gas grill). But, a regular grill is nearly 100% convection hot air cooking. TEC's newest burner is 100% infrared...it has a glass plate underneath the grate and on top of the burner so there's no convection cooking at all - it's all IR.

Since EVERY burner works properly by itself the problem is NOT in the controls or orifices. You just don't have enough gas flow, and that could be due to a bad regulator or a cylinder valve that limits the flow in case of a bad leak.

Since EVERY burner works properly by itself the problem is NOT in the controls or orifices. You just don't have enough gas flow, and that could be due to a bad regulator or a cylinder valve that limits the flow in case of a bad leak.

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Turned out to be the regulator. Picked one up from local gas grill house along with an oetiker clamp and a barbed connector. Burner works fine now.

Only thing is the new regulator only has a single output so I can't use the side burner and the cylinder needs to be rotated 90 degrees an d now I need a bungee to secure it.

My grill has a wierd habbit of if I turn the bottle on too fast, I barely get a flame...even on high. What I have to do is: turn the bottle off, unhook the hose from the low pressure side of the regulator to "bleed it", reconnect the hose, open the bottle slowly, light the grill, and then I get a decent flame. Cheap Chinese junk... I've talked to other people that have the same problem...

My grill has a wierd habbit of if I turn the bottle on too fast, I barely get a flame...even on high. What I have to do is: turn the bottle off, unhook the hose from the low pressure side of the regulator to "bleed it", reconnect the hose, open the bottle slowly, light the grill, and then I get a decent flame. Cheap Chinese junk... I've talked to other people that have the same problem...

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There is a safety mechanism in the regulator in case of a leak. You can inadvertently activate the safety device without having a gas leak. This typically occurs when you turn on your control knobs before you turn on the LP tank valve, opening the propane cylinder too fast or shutting the cylinder off while the burners are still on.

quote: What I have to do is: turn the bottle off, unhook the hose from the low pressure side of the regulator to "bleed it", reconnect the hose, open the bottle slowly,

The tank has a "valve" in it that detects sudden flow and closes the outlet since it assumes something has broken. It stays closed until you stop the flow and allow it to "drop back" into its open position.

The tank has a "valve" in it that detects sudden flow and closes the outlet since it assumes something has broken. It stays closed until you stop the flow and allow it to "drop back" into its open position.