One of the greatest attainments of the cooking of Georgia (the country in the Caucuses Mountains, not the state in the Southeast U.S.) is chicken tabaka, sometimes facetiously called “roadkill chicken.”

A whole bird is partially deboned, smashed flat as a pancake, dusted with flour, and then fried. The bird is served in a light broth and covered with raw crushed garlic, and there’s no better version of fried chicken in the world. KeBeer — a Russian indoor beer garden in Brighton Beach with all sorts of surprising bottles and taps — makes a splendid version, and at a jaw-droppingly low price. It’s the perfect thing to go with, say, a fruity Belgian lambic.