In 1988, three Chinese brothers who spent their childhood in South America set out to bring Orange County a fusion version of their favorite foods. Wahoo’s Fish Taco – founded by Ed Lee, Mingo Lee and Wing Lam – served foods with Brazilian flavors, Baja California tacos and secret spices gleaned from their father’s Chinese restaurant.

The original menu of soft tacos, garlic white rice and vegetarian black beans eventually added Cajun beans, brown rice, shrimp and tofu. There’s even a secret sauce dubbed “Mr. Lee’s” – a thick, pepper-packed red sauce created by their father.

“It has its own cult following,” said Mingo Lee, 43.

But the fanaticism for Wahoo’s stretches beyond a single sauce.

After 25 years, Santa Ana-based Wahoo’s has grown to 64 restaurants in seven states, including Hawaii, Texas and New York. The company’s first international location is slated to open this year in Japan. The brothers, especially the eldest, Wing Lam, are often seen as celebrities during local food and philanthropic events.

Though other fresh-Mex concepts dot the Southern California landscape, Wahoo’s maverick personality and eclectic dishes have remained unmatched through the years.

“It’s not a cookie-cutter operation,” Mingo Lee said.

In 1975, the brothers lived in Costa Mesa after their family left Brazil. When they weren’t peeling shrimp and washing dishes in their father’s Balboa Island Chinese restaurant, the brothers could be found soaking up the local culture – surfing in Newport Beach or Baja.

Having the restaurant industry know-how, the brothers developed the Wahoo’s menu in 1988 as a tribute to all their favorite foods from Mexico, Asia and Brazil.

The company’s strong connection to the surf industry – and the birth of its famous stickered walls – soon followed.

The Placentia Avenue restaurant, on the west side of Costa Mesa, was surrounded by surf and skate brands like Billabong and Quiksilver. One day, Billabong asked if they could put a banner in the restaurant. Stickers soon followed.

Not to be outdone by the clever product placement, local rivals like Quiksilver asked to put their own stamp on Wahoo’s walls.

“Soon, it went from banners to stickers to memorabilia,” said Mingo. “It took on a life of its own.”

Today, you can’t walk into a Wahoo’s Fish Taco without noticing the funky graffiti stickered decor. Various surf and skate brands, as well as fledgling local businesses, have made it a ritual to place their logos on restaurant walls.

“Everyone wants to one-up the other guy,” said Wing Lam, considered the chain’s biggest brand ambassador.

To mark the 25th anniversary of the first Costa Mesa restaurant, Wahoo’s is planning a slate of yearlong specials including the introduction of a loyalty card. Cards can be obtained at restaurants now.

Specific promotions will occur on the 25th of each month, starting Jan. 25 – when all fish tacos will sell for 25 cents.

On Feb. 25, customers will be given scratcher cards good for free items such as tacos, burritos, chips and combo meals. On March 25, the chain plans to debut a new burrito that features Mr. Lee’s sauce, white rice, sautéed mushrooms, shredded cheese, chicken breast and green sauce. Customers will be asked to participate in a naming contest for the burrito.

Specials for later months have not been revealed.

LET’S DISH: MENU CHANGES, NEW RESTAURANTS

Early Bird is going prime time.

The Fullerton breakfast joint by chef Joseph Mahon has announced plans to start serving dinner in March. Mahon has snapped up Frank DeLoach, formerly of Neapolitan Pizzeria & Birreria in Laguna Beach and The Playground, as his new chef de cuisine. Mahon says the menu will offer upscale Southern food with a chef-driven twist.

Irvine Co. properties continue to change up their food offerings. Taverna Blu, a boutique Greek concept from San Diego, is now open at Irvine Spectrum Center. Also, Umami Burger plans to open inside the new Irvine Improv when it relocates to the mall’s food court this year.

At the Crossroads center, Urban Plates and Veggie Grill are opening this year. Bonefish Grill is debuting its first California restaurant in Tustin in late 2013, where Black Angus used to operate at The Market Place.

Nancy Luna is an award-winning journalist with more than 25 years reporting experience. She's been the Register's restaurant beat writer since 2005, covering some of the biggest players in the industry: In-N-Out, Chipotle, McDonald’s and Taco Bell. Luna also covers dining trends from food halls to food trucks. She writes with authority and is considered an expert in her field.

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