Just got some of these. Like the feel (modulation is ok, power is excellent).

I have a couple questions for other users of these:

1) Regarding the centering adjustment. My brakes came with two types of washers, a thicker one and a thinner one. Should I use one or both of them, and where should a place them between the fork and the brake? What has worked for you? I've been using both washers (thinner closest to brake, thicker one against fork/frame), and centering is ok if I also use the side adjust bolt, but I'm wondering if there are better/easier methods for centering in terms of washer placement.

2) Are you torquing the pinch bolt to a certain Nm reading? I don't want to overtighten and smash the cable with the smaller pinch bolt, but I also don't want the cable to slip from an insufficiently tightened bolt. Is hand tightening enough?

Got a set of these (CNC) today, I am very impressed with the quality.They look good as well.

1. Swap the stock pads out2. Careful with the cable clamp. Not enough and it will slip, too much and it will cut through the cable.Otherwise they are fantastic!Once I get a few rides on them Ill comment on the power, reliability, and modulation.Saved over 180g off my 105 calipers!

(Note, the US site has the CNC model on sale right now for about the same price as the forged.)

Just got some of these. Like the feel (modulation is ok, power is excellent).

I have a couple questions for other users of these:

1) Regarding the centering adjustment. My brakes came with two types of washers, a thicker one and a thinner one. Should I use one or both of them, and where should a place them between the fork and the brake? What has worked for you? I've been using both washers (thinner closest to brake, thicker one against fork/frame), and centering is ok if I also use the side adjust bolt, but I'm wondering if there are better/easier methods for centering in terms of washer placement.

I think the washers are just to give adequate frame clearnce. So I am using 1 washer in the front, and two washers in the rear. I don't think the order or number matters except to give adequate clearance. Use at least one though so it will hold on to the frame at center.

Center the brake as best you can and tighten the fastening bolt, which will cause the serrated washer to "bite" into the frame. Then, use the small adjustment bolt for fine tuning. I also have one of the Park brake adjustment wrenches if I occasionally need a more dramatic recentering (just grab the flats on the main brake bolt and twist it to center.)

Quote:

2) Are you torquing the pinch bolt to a certain Nm reading? I don't want to overtighten and smash the cable with the smaller pinch bolt, but I also don't want the cable to slip from an insufficiently tightened bolt. Is hand tightening enough?

I use a small crescent wrench and a hex key (what is it ? ...2 mm ?) Anyway, the guys who design screws and wrenches are diabolically clever in choosing the diameters and lengths of the hex keys so that the hex key will start to bend an be overstressed-looking at about the right maximum torque on the bolt. So I would say "tighten firmly" but use common sense. I don't measure, but I would guesstimate that it is about 2 N-m. I have never had a problem with loosening or breaking the cable.

Thanks Rick for the help. I've been riding them for a couple months now and I'm really happy with how they perform.

Another question for owners of these brakes: Are you using 5mm brake housing ferrules with these brakes?

I've been using iLinks with them, and actually had to use one of the shifting ilink cable stops, which are 4mm or less (I don't have size calipers just a guess). Just placing a 5mm ferrule on top of the barrel adjuster and it looks like it is a couple millimeters too big. I would like to switch out the housing, but it is a non-segmented (regular) type of housing and only fits 5mm ferrules.

I emailed Planet-X but have yet to hear from them about this. Thanks for any help.

Don't think you will find help from them - I asked them for installation manual and they say that they don't have such a thing. Rear brakes are deliberately set off-centered for me right now as one arm pivots a lot more than the other, so if I centered it the wheel will be pushed off quite badly to the left. Not ideal but I can live with it. Happy with the weight savings still...

Just placing a 5mm ferrule on top of the barrel adjuster and it looks like it is a couple millimeters too big. I would like to switch out the housing, but it is a non-segmented (regular) type of housing and only fits 5mm ferrules.

I can confirm that 5mm ferrules are too big for the CNC brakes. My brake outer fits snugly in the cable adjuster without even thinking of adding a ferrule.

I have had no centering problems. I'm not sure if this is isolated, but i just adjusted them like I would any standard single pivot brake. Cheap brakes on bikes for children are much harder to deal with.

The performance is great! Like any component, don't look at the static performance. The arm flex is a little offputting but the on road performance is fantastic.

I totally forgot about the barrel adjuster to tighten up the brake gap. However the lock nut for these calipers are weak and not long enough for my front caliper. The lock nut for the rear is stripped for the allen key, and that will be a problem if I really need to remove them later. Will test how these brakes stop my bike in couple days.

I assume you mean the mounting nut? Mine came with 2 of different lengths. I managed to fit the long one with plenty of engagement. Mine are torx head not allen. Maybe yours are too.

I think the edges of the cam arm are a little sharper, and having the bare powercord knot pulling against it might weaken and eventually fail the cord. Using the cable-nut seems like a better interface for a knot, and with the tension of the cable, the cord won't be sliding against the slightly rough edges of the cable-nut very much.

prendrefeu, how long have you been using powercordz with these brakes? What kind of knot did you use?

Using powercordz with these brakes seems like a better idea than the flawed cable/pinch bolt design.

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