I have wondered the same thing on all accounts - I have an end that needs replacing. I wonder if you need the 70 series? Could you use a 6011? I guess if you needed 70 I would use 7014. I would definately V it out first.

Yes, it really is a 9N, (1940 based on the S/N) and I haven't the faintest idea if it is an original lift arm or not. Yeah, I'd be fine with 30 years- I'll be dead by then. BUT I've had TSC stuff fail the same day I bought it. That wouldn't be so fine.

Go ahead & get the new weld-on ends . Lay the new end on your lift arm , mark the arm , then cut it off with a cut-off disc on your angle grinder . Be sure to grind an good angle on the arm . The new piece generally comes with an angle already on it , but if not , grind it . Then lay both parts on a flat surface end to end tightly . Clamp them so they don't move . Then do a couple good tack welds to hold them in place . I used 7018 DC weld & ran my welder on +DC at 120 for good penetration .Clean up your tacks & check the alignment & tightness of joint . If satisfactory . Go ahead & run a good bead all the way around the arm . Clean it up , then you may wanna turn the heat down to 100 or 110 to do a final weld (depending on your machine), then smooth it off with a grinder .I'm no welder , but even if a hobbiest like me can do it , I'm sure you can too . Good luck & God bless , Ken

(quoted from post at 21:25:12 03/25/13) I sure like 7014, never tried 7018.

I welded one on my International with a 110V MIG with .035 flux core wire. Ground a nice V and made several passes, allowing it to cool and cleaning it with a wire brush after each weld. That was 5 or 6 years ago and I have used it pretty hard. No problems at all.

William, do what what you want... but on my 2N, I used a hacksaw and cut about 3/16 of the worn loop out.... two cuts... and then "re-formed" (read: hammered,) the loop closed again... then welded the loop closed....it grips the ball nicely and was scarcely noticeable.

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