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Remove power to the unit.
Locate the console and remove two phillips head screws. Most
models have them in the front, bottom of the console. In some of the newer models they are located in the back, bottom of the console. Some washers require you to remove two end caps on the console to access the screws.
After you remove the two screws, slide the console slightly forward and then up. The console will then hinge to the back of the washer.
With the console now hinged back, locate the lid switch harness.
Disconnect the harness and check for resistance between the 2 grey wires (outside) on the lid switch connector connected to top of washer. With the lid down the circuit should read no resistance. If the circuit is open(infinite resistance) then the switch needs to be replaced. You can also use a insulated jumper on the lid switch harness to determine if its the switch.
To replace the lid switch you will now have to remove the cabinet. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the two clips holding the back of the washer to the outer shell of the washer.
Disconnect the lid switch harness(If not still disconnected).

You can now pull the outer shell away from the washer. Do this by
grasping the outer shell (I open the lid and grab it there.) and tilt the shell forward (toward you) and out. The shell is now removed and you can see the tub. Be careful not to bend the outside walls of the shell when removing and setting aside. This will help greatly when reinstalling the shell. Remove the 2 screws attaching switch to cabinet. Remove the screw connecting the ground on the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push tabs on lid switch connector block to remove. Finally remove the whole harness from the 2 remaining retainer clips under the cabinet. Install new lid switch harness assembly and reassemble washer.

If it is by chance a 2000 or 2001 Sears front load washer (Electrolux), the outer shell likely failed where the springs attach to keep the outer shell and inner wash tub suspended.

If you remove the lower panel, and look underneath and see one or more springs laying down on the bottom of the cabinet, look around to see if you can spot the end of the spring. Sometimes the ear that breaks off these will still be attached to the spring. The ear cannot be glued. The outer shell "could" be replaced, but the time investment makes complete replacement of washer the only cost effective solution in that situation.

If by chance the springs simply popped out, they can be re-hooked to the ear they came out of with some effort and careful pushing of the outer shell.

If, by "outer shell", you mean the case of the machine:
The drum is held into place by strong springs (usually three),
How is the condition of the springs?
If, by "outer shell", you mean the drain pan, which surrounds the inside shell where your clothes go, then they should never move separately from one another, in fact, if they have not been united by the press, rust often unites them. There might be a foreign objet between them which did not make its way down the drain, but that should not be anything physically heavy. I have never seen any washing machine with functional components in the drain pan whose area is not large.
:o).

The outer case catches under the frame across the front and there is a tab on either side on the frame near the back these tabs go into a slot in the flange on the bottom of the case. You may need to loosen the control console to do this. 1. Disconnect the power. 2. Remove two screws, one at each top corner on rear of console. 3. Push a putty knife under the front of the console near the corner. You will feel the resistance from a spring steel clip. Push, firmly toward rear of machine. clip will release and console will be loose. Repeat at other front corner of console. 4. make sure outer case is hooked under front of frame. 5. Put case on both tabs(check at rear corners on back of machine to assure that back panel and case corner are in the modling that aligns the two. This is sometimes like a wrestling match. Take your time it can be a test of your patience. It is helpful to see diagrams available at www.sears.com under Parts direct. Find your model number and an exploded view is available. Good luck.

To replace the switch remove the shell of the washer. *Unplug the
washer first!* There are likely screws on the back around the
perimeter, which attach the shell to a base. Remove these, and any
others which hold the shell in place. Be careful, there might be wires
between the shell and base, which you don't want to pull out or damage.
Once you have access to the inside, locate the switch, and disconnect
the wire leads, which are likely connected via plastic crimp-on
fasteners. They should slide right off the switch terminals. The switch
is likely screwed into place, go ahead and remove it. Either replace
with the Maytag replacement part, -OR- remove the switch and copy the
specs printed on the side. It will be important to purchase a switch
that is rated for the same voltage, amp load, and default open/closed
position. A trip to Radio Shack might be a solution, or jump over to
www.digikey.com. The switch is likely to resemble one from this page: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T082/2028.pd...

*Edit* ignore the removal of the shell; forgot the top pops off as
mentioned previously. Hopefully the rest of the info helps some...

first remove the two screws that hold in the control panel and tip it back, then there two clips that the shell is locked onto undo them and pull the shell away from the unit. remember to shut off the power first. remove any wires that are hooked up aand the replace the pump. good luck

if you hear water when you spin the basket,that is the front tub balance ring.it is filled halfway with water in order to assist mach in balancing load.that is a normal sound.the mach may also leave some water between the basket and outer shell depending on lengh of drain hose.as long as the clothes do not come in contact with the water it is fine.