Sooner or later, in Venice it’s almost inevitable making a “bacaro tour”, that means walking around the city and stopping at the typical “bacari” (sort of wine-bars) to have a glass of wine and some “cicchetti”. The “cicchetti” are the typical Venetian tapas and finger-food, such as “polpette” (fried balls of meat/vegetable/tuna fish), crostini (small pieces of bread topped with stockfish cream or salami/cheese), “sarde in saor” (sardines marinated in oil, vinegar, onion and raisins).

A few days ago, some friends of mine came to visit me in Venice and we decided to make a “bacaro tour” in my favourite places to celebrate our birthdays, which all happen in April.

We started the tour from Campo Santa Margherita, which is the square where all university students gather to have an aperitif before dinner. The square is full of bars and “bacari”, but the best place for “cicchetti” is Bocon DiVino (a play on words which means both “a bite of wine” and “divine bite”). This place offers a wide variety of “cicchetti” in a very warm location with bricks on the wall and wooden barrels used as tables.

We then moved to “Osteria Ai Pugni”, a real “institution” in Venice (if you come here at around 7.30 pm, you’ll hardly be able to walk among the mass of people crowded outside). Do not dare to ask for a glass of water or a non-alchoolic drink here! The Venetian staff will lanswer you back with the most “colorful” Venetian language!

Osteria Ai Pugni

Walking along the “Zattere” (the sunny walk along the Giudecca Canal, on the southern part of Venice, facing the Giudecca island), we then arrived at “Al Squero“, a small cosy “bacaro” sited just in front of the “Squero di San Trovaso”, the most famous “squero” inVenice (so it’s called the place where they build and repair the gondolas). Here the owner is a real expert of food and wine (ask him to explain in details what he’s serving to you) and offers an unusual selection of “cicchetti” and wine labels. The speciality are the “crostini” (see above), which have very particular tastes (try the one with salty cheese and figs jam, you’ll fall in love with it!).

Osteria Al Squero

After a long walk, we reached the Rialto area, where the most famous “bacari” are sited. We chose one place which is quite isolated from the most frequented paths: Enoteca Al Volto. A large variety of “cicchetti” + an authentic Venetian owner entertaining the customers is the recipe of the success of this place. We were impressed by the delicious stuffed squids and by the curiosities about Venice the owner told us. Here you can also have a typical Venetian meal.

Almost all “cicchetterie” (bars offering tapas and finger food) in Venice show their variety of “cicchetti” (tapas and finger food) on the counter, trying to tempt the customers.

Even if this is a good way to attract people, the cicchetti are displayed there for a while and, as time passes by, they lose their original freshness and taste.

At MaiTardi, a cicchetteria and wine bar sited quite near to Rialto Bridge, on the counter, instead of cicchetti, a special sign is displayed: “cicchetti espressi” (expresss cicchetti). It means that the food is expressly made upon your request.

Campiello Corner: on the bottom, the green awning of Enobar MaiTardi

Sandwiches, tramezzini, dishes of fresh sliced salami: at MaiTardi the owner, Gigi, prepares everything on real time and the result is remarkable. The food tastes fresh and savoury and the price is really fair. Like in all Venetian cicchetterie you can choose a glass of wine among a wide selection too.

The place is little and difficult to be noticed (be careful: the sign on the awning just says “Enobar”), but you can enjoy Gigi’s cicchetti sitting at one of the outside tables.