High on street markets (Marché d’Aligre, Marché Beauveau) and low on pretension, you can find three-Michelin star chefs like Fabrice Le Bourdat at Le Bristol who “rises every morning at 2 to make his famous millefeuille and iced madeleines for late morning customers. While . . . his cheerful wife Céline will help you choose between a buttery croissant or white chocolate brioche”