Friday, June 20, 2014

Rainy Day Hike

One of the methods I use to fall asleep is to hike up the
Spaulding Trail and over to Muir Cabin in my mind. I try to be as detailed as
possible. If I find that I’ve skipped ahead or missed a section, I backtrack
and start over again. I usually get a good distance across the meadows to the
cabin before I nod off.

Earlier this week I was ready for a hike. I didn’t want to
go up a big ridge or mountain because I needed to save a little energy for my
weekly ashtanga yoga class that night. Also, the clouds hung low in the sky and
the forecast was for intermittent rain, so any altitude gained would not likely
give me any spectacular views. But I needed to get outside. I’d already taken the
previous day off from hiking or biking, and my legs were restless.

I was not concerned about the weather. I learned a long time
ago that if you live in Juneau, you’re always going to be a little bit wet if
you spend much time outside, so you can’t let it bother you. Since I’m not made
out of sugar and don’t melt in the rain, I not only tolerate it, but even have
fun. As I drank my coffee that morning, I decided on one of my favorite rainy
day hikes, one that I can literally do in my sleep – the Spaulding to Muir
loop.

Scott was also eager for some exercise, so with a few quick
preparations we were out the door and on the trail. Almost immediately, a
steady rain began falling. We each took a different approach to dressing for the
rain. I wore rubber boots, a light rain jacket with just a wool t-shirt
underneath and quick-dry pants. Scott decided on trail running shoes and several
lightweight soft shell layers, but no rain gear. He reasoned he could move fast
enough to stay warm, even if he did get wet. I knew that trail shoes would give
me better support and grip, but while I can comfortably travel in the rain, I
just didn’t want to deal with wet feet on this trip.

Coming out of the woods and into the top meadows

Once the snow melts, Spaulding trail and the meadows above
will get your feet wet in no time. You can stay dry up to the first meadow, and
if you’re careful you can even manage to continue stay dry up to the second
meadow. After you leave the second meadow, you’re doomed to soak your feet in
ankle deep mud puddles.

When we arrived at the top of the trail we were a bit damp,
but warm, and at least my feet were dry. Off we went across Spaulding meadows,
looking for the route over to the Auke Mountain meadows and the Muir cabin. It
is not very well marked and is truly a route more than a trail.

Wet and beautiful

Here is where my insomnia cure comes in handy. I know the
route so well by now that I am very certain where to go. We picked our way across,
piecing the puzzle together sometimes by memory and sometimes by flagging or
trail markers hidden in the trees. I don’t recommend trying this loop from
Spaulding to Muir unless you are either with someone who is familiar with it,
or you are skilled with a map and compass or GPS, because it is very easy to
get turned around, especially when the weather moves in.

Hard to believe there are big mountains hidden in the fog

The clouds and fog were so thick we could not see any of the
surrounding mountains. When you can’t look up, you might as well look down. And
that is one of the many reasons I love this hike. The rain and clouds made the
green meadows absolutely glow with soft, deep color. Shooting stars and
Labrador tea bloomed in big pink patches throughout, and we found evidence of
blue wild geranium, alpine lupine and other flowers still to bloom.

Bog laurel - Kalmia polifolia

While the flowers and meadow grasses are quite beautiful, the
real magic lies in the muskeg ponds. Standing on the edge of one of many ponds
scattered along the way, I gazed down into another world. I could imagine
fairies and elves playing on the lily pads, ducking under the water or hiding
in the grass as we passed by. The yellow water lily flowers had not yet made
their appearance. Instead, large drops of rain graced the dark red lily pad
leaves. The mountains on the horizon remained hidden in the rain clouds, but I
had all the beauty of the wilderness that I needed at my feet.

Several nesting Greater Yellowlegs loudly scolded us when we
passed by. I’m used to these shorebirds nesting in the muskeg meadows at 1600’,
and always get a chuckle as they squawk at us. The buzzing whistle of the Varied
Thrush sounded repeatedly in the woods and the meadows, and on the way down in
the woods we were fortunate to see a Red Breasted Sapsucker and clearly hear
his call instead of the usual the rat-a-tat drumming sound he makes while searching
for food in the trees.

Greater Yellowlegs

The Muir cabin came into view almost too quickly. The warm, dry
shelter welcomed us as we shed our wet clothes for a few minutes and enjoyed a
snack. Obviously an overnight group had recently left, and we could detect the
smell what must have been a delicious breakfast lingering in the air.

For the past couple of hours we’d had miles of trail and
high meadows all to ourselves. One lone hiker came up from the Muir trail and
visited with us at the cabin for a bit. He was interested in the route over to
Spaulding, but since he was a foreign tourist without a map or GPS, and
generally unfamiliar with the area, we discouraged him from trying it on such a
cool, rainy and cloudy day.

Almost across to the Muir cabin

As we started down from the cabin, the sky cleared for a few
moments, giving us a glimpse of sunshine and blue sky. Our wet clothes dried in
the warm sun, and we made our way down the mostly boardwalk trail in no time at
all. When we arrived at the car, we replaced rubber boots and wet trail shoes
with flip flops. Ten minutes later we were warm and dry and happily eating
pastries at Paradise Café, chatting about all that we’d seen that morning. The
magic of the meadows was behind us, but I will revisit them again and again in
my dreams.

The Spaulding to Muir loop is about 8 miles round trip

Victor Clar Spaulding
made his home in the vicinity for many years. Spaulding came north in 1897. In
1906 he was mining at Yankee Basin, north of Juneau. In June, 1908, Spaudling
and Charles Wylie located several lode claims on what they called Treasury
Hill, some four miles north of Auke Bay. They built a trail, now known as the
Spaulding Trail, to the claims and did development work there. (pg 40, R. N.
DeArmond, 1957, “Some Names Around Juneau”)

1 comment:

Beautiful story, Betsy! I could visualize everything as you explained it in detail. Great prose you have there! You must write a book one day about Juneau, Alaska. I'm sure you'd sell lots of copies! Thanks for sharing your story!