Recently got my first bike. My father in law gifted me his 84 Aspy. Its been sitting a while so it needed a little tlc. First bike, but I have a few ATVs so the maintenance is similar. Anyway, I noticed a bit of clutch drag and instantly thought that an oil change was due. Changed the oil with Valvoline 10w40 MC oil for wet clutch engines. Rode the bike to work. All was well on the way there, but the trip home I experienced a lot of clutch drag. Bike would lurch forward and rpm would drop a few hundred rpm. Shifting while driving was near impossible. Decided to tackle bleeding the clutch. Found out that is a pain on a wing. Long story short, I still have clutch drag.

Here are a few things that I think could be the causes.

1. Maybe I dont have the clutch bled properly.
a. I bled the clutch per instructions Ive received on the forum. Lever feels pretty good.

You'll see the term "clutch flushing" used often here; refers to not just draining out the old Dot4 clutch fluid, replacing with fresh, but rather repeated a few times to get sediment dislodged and flushed out of the clutch. I use Amsoil 10W-40 in my Wings, but lots of folks like Mobil 1. Again, cleaning is as important as the type of lubricant. Before changing oil I always run about 1/2 can of Seafoam in the engine for 100-200 miles (doesn't have to be continuous) to clean crud off the crankcase, clutch disks, etc. The difference in the look and feel of the oil before and after this treatment is amazing, and the bikes really seem to enjoy it.

You'll see the term "clutch flushing" used often here; refers to not just draining out the old Dot4 clutch fluid, replacing with fresh, but rather repeated a few times to get sediment dislodged and flushed out of the clutch. I use Amsoil 10W-40 in my Wings, but lots of folks like Mobil 1. Again, cleaning is as important as the type of lubricant. Before changing oil I always run about 1/2 can of Seafoam in the engine for 100-200 miles (doesn't have to be continuous) to clean crud off the crankcase, clutch disks, etc. The difference in the look and feel of the oil before and after this treatment is amazing, and the bikes really seem to enjoy it.

Ive used Seafoam in my vehicles before and liked the results. I would have no issues with adding some to the gas and crank case, but with the clutch dragging to the point of no being able to shift, I wont be putting any miles on the bike.

In learning to properly bleed the clutch system on these bikes, I believe that I have effectively flushed the system. All clear and clean fluid coming out the slave bleeder screw.

You say the clutch lever feels good but you don't say where in the lever pull the engagement point is.

I have not measured, but there seems to be a bit of movement in the lever from being fully pulled in, till the bike starts getting power to the rear wheel while releasing the lever. But I cannot be completely sure till tomorrow.

I have not measured, but there seems to be a bit of movement in the lever from being fully pulled in, till the bike starts getting power to the rear wheel while releasing the lever. But I cannot be completely sure till tomorrow.

The brass bushing in your lever is likely worn through.
About $10 from your Honda dealer.
As that bushing was used in every Goldwing 1984 and newer your dealer should have one or nine in stock.
Part# 22885-MB0-006

The brass bushing in your lever is likely worn through.
About $10 from your Honda dealer.
As that bushing was used in every Goldwing 1984 and newer your dealer should have one or nine in stock.
Part# 22885-MB0-006

That is very helpful. Generally, when I am unsure of what to do next, I go for the cheapest or easiest thing to do. "Low hanging fruit."

1. Lever bushing $10
a. Makes a lot of sense with a bike of this age. 75,000 miles. I plan on inspecting this tomorrow.

2. Change oil. Probably going to Mobil 1 as Im out of the Kawi oil for now. $40

3. Rebuild master and slave cylinders $50. Should I be avoiding the cheap rebuild kits on ebay?

4. Replace clutch fibers and discs $??? Is there a preferred brand to buy? OEM, EBC? Again, should I be avoiding the cheap rebuild kits on ebay?

There should be virtually no free play when pulling the clutch in, The second you start to pull the lever you should feel resistance and the same resistance should be there all the way to squeezed fully. Also you should NOT be able to push the lever forward when released.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.

Something no one else has mentioned yet. There is a very small hole in the bottom of the clutch master cylinder that can get clogged up. Since your bike has been sitting for a while it might be partially stopped up. If that hole is not open the clutch fluid cannot get back into the master cylinder and will cause it to drag. In some bikes it will be under a small metal cover. It would be a good idea to check that.

Larry

Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
-- Albert Einstein

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