I believe it's for 6mm Napoleonics as Robert has photos of them in his other albums.

So – do you think some of that terrain could be pre-glued together for taking on the road? I'd like to cut the set-up time from 4 hours to 30-45 minutes for running games at conventions (you usually have an hour to set it up and I'd still need to get the minis on the table too )

Regarding shortend setup time: This system was set up as a way to reproduce terrain from any map during a campaign- though it doesnt really look it, it is all reusable, and almost 'modular'. If you wanted to do a one-off battle with a quick setup time, you could spray adhesive tack everything to a peice of thin green dyed muslin ahead of time, cover it with a thin plastic drop cloth, and roll it up- unroll, smooth, remove plastic and then drape it over the modular hexagonal terrain underneath. You might have a problem reusing the woodland scenics foliage due to the tack- but that, and the felt (excepting the Hotz flocked fields) is cheap.

Sorry I didn't get to the tutorial today. However, the first step is buying enough Hotz Mats for about 60 sq feet of coverage for the plowed field sections .same with felt from a craft store- flock it with woodland scenics or other brand grass for solid field sections. Water is done with narrow cut grey-green felt. Roads are wargamers flexible terrain custom cut, and edges flocked. Building from any good manufacturer of 6mm or 1/300, painted with a drybrush/wash style. Groundcover is woodland scenics foliage, flattened, spray with flat laquer, cut into .5 and .25 strips. larger foliage a mix of grades of WS foliage clusters. Cultivated trees are K&B

I have taken this table down, because a new one needs to be generated. I will do a pictoscribe of the step by step process of setting up the new one. I will post it here, if Bill has some room over in the "here's how you do it section". old link: link

Thanks Guys- It's not hard to do-but it does require an investment in terrain- money for the stuff, and time In order to make any configuration that might be needed in a campaign well it's been two thousand dollars for terrain- in 1985 dollars.

When Eric Hotz came out with his field mats, the last piece fell into place for a few hundred more. Eventually, after 30 years of visualizing what I wanted, I had the ability to create it quickly.

I also have a lot of leftover terain, as I need far less of the geo-hex systems than I did before the field mats. I also bought K & M trees when they were affordable. I have like 300 of them- just shudder to think what that costs now. But the cheaper foliage clusters from woodland scenics are better for the majoprity of woods. I only us a few K&M now to represent cultivated trees and orchards.

Now, I think, after aquiring the buildings, stone fence pieces, bridges, geohex, terrain Guy mats, Hotz Mats, a few K&M's,craft felt, flocking,and the woodland scenics stuff one could efficently buy what you need to do this essentially modular system that looks like unique art for a thousand dollars in todays money. That and a hundred hours work on the buildings if you use the same black prime dry brush method I did That is substantially less time and money than I have spent to arrive at this system- so, good news for anyone interested in trying it out!

Again, when you have the stuff its super easy to do- I've discovered some tricks with the woodland scenics stuff that totally brings it to life, and its simple and quick.

That is such a good example of what can be done with a tabletop. The geography and the land form looks realistic rather than just being something randomly generated. I really must try to do better with my own set ups.

TY,It really stems from the need to make the landforms drive deployment, as of course it would have. I think it is not well done by most wargamers- not at all out of a lack of understanding, but of necessarily having to ignore how terrain drives battles right down to the battalon/battery/squadron level, due to the sheer investment of time and money it takes to accumulate the terrain. A fold of ground can (and does) make a huge difference often enough. It is a real investment to represent that. One other guy who does a good job of this is Nigel Marsh, with his 'teddy-bear fur' terrain. My set-up is really for Adler 6mm only. For those of you who play larger than 6mm, Nigel's method is the way to go- though it is not modular, and therefore not suited for the variables of campaign battles. In larger scales, that gets to be even more of an investment- or not- I was plopping hills on a billard ball table top decades ago and enjoying it !