Hey guys, just logged 1k on my odometer!! The crf rocks as far as 250 road legals go! Great MPG, decent handling, and plenty of get up and go in town. Once on the highway, there is no snap left in the throttle. If you're past 60 mph, rolling the throttle to the stop will only yield a gentle acceleration up to 80 +/- 6 mph indicated, and the spedo seems to be 2mph off according to my GPS, so the top speed seems to be 84 mph in stock form. It handles off road pretty good but I can't get nearly as sideways as I can on my CRF450R with good off road tires! It will wag the tail a lot less, and doesn't give good feedback on the edge, it but if you've got a little bit of experience you can still ride it close to the edge off road without crashing. The tires seem to be holding it back. The NICE dual chamber forks on my CRF450R look like they'll fit the triple clamps on the crf250L no problem, and add all the adjustability I need! I haven't measured the shock yet, that's for another day, hopefully the 450 shock will fit too!

Please post the measurements here when you do it - i don't know when i'll get to it; i'm backlogged with stuff to do already; handlebar, bling engine plugs, and lubing the axles. Work takes too much time of my life. :-/
The forks are ok for me, i think, and the shock might be, but i just don't like the cheapo chrome type shock - although the good thing is that you can hardly notice it on this bike. I'm going to get around to getting a YSS shock, but if the CRF250R shock fits, if it's the same length - although i doubt it, given that the CRF250R is so much higher - it might be easy to get one on ebay.

problem with the front. there are 3 wires for the front blinkers. ground, blinker and running lights but the led's have only 2 wires. power and ground. so i hooked the new led's up to the power and the ground and left the running lights wire unhooked. tested it out and nothing will blink, or light up now. So then i just touched the running light wire to the power and they lit up but still nothing will flash.

do you think the relay will fix this problem or is there something else i am missing.? any thoughts?

Maybe. I don't understand wiring well enough to say. But mine don't come on until i use them, as turn signals; only the headlight is on when i switch on the ignition switch. So i suppose that is a feature of the US version. I don't know whether mine (South Africa) is the Thailand version or AUS version or what. It does not have the charcoal canister for fumes - so far i know, that's always a US feature, only.

Anyone installed these bars?
I have a set with Easton clamps.
What issues will I have with these bars, if any?

Any insite and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I installed these last week and they are working great. You get about an additional inch of rise and they are great for standing.

I cut approximately 3/4" off of the ends to approximate the length of the OEM bars (pipe cutter). Just remove the hand controls and grips. Remove the old bars from the clamps and then slide the bars toward the clutch side. That will allow you to slip the throttle tube off of the right side without removing any cables.

Rotate the bars in the clamps to the -1 position mark on the bar.

As mentioned, use a dremel tool to remove the little metal nubs from the inside of the controls (I think there are 3 of them total). I jused electrical tape to give the controls a bit of bite on the new bar.

I just received my Cycra hand guards and will install those this weekend. I'll post some pics afterward. Send me a PM if you need any help.

I installed the Easton bars. Fairly simple process, just remember to remove the guide pegs in the inside of the controls. I don't recall any issues with cable length, but the throttle cables are a little tight when the wheelis turned to the left.

I know that there have been some concerns about mounting difficulties with the 1 3/8 size bars, I just superglued industrial Velcro to the Easton pad and my rugged phone case, and it doesn't budge

Any pix without the pad? Not sure I am a big fan of the Pad.
I do have a gps that I mount to the stock bars, wonder if that is a possibility with these bars?
Thanks

I installed these last week and they are working great. You get about an additional inch of rise and they are great for standing.

I cut approximately 3/4" off of the ends to approximate the length of the OEM bars (pipe cutter). Just remove the hand controls and grips. Remove the old bars from the clamps and then slide the bars toward the clutch side. That will allow you to slip the throttle tube off of the right side without removing any cables.

Rotate the bars in the clamps to the -1 position mark on the bar.

As mentioned, use a dremel tool to remove the little metal nubs from the inside of the controls (I think there are 3 of them total). I jused electrical tape to give the controls a bit of bite on the new bar.

I just received my Cycra hand guards and will install those this weekend. I'll post some pics afterward. Send me a PM if you need any help.

Excellent!
Pix would be great, maybe some without the Pad
You might be getting a PM when I get ready to install.
Do they make a cross bar for these bars to mount a gps? Do you know?
Thanks

Has anyone had an issue with the clutch slipping when you jump on the gas with the clutch lever out (on a good traction surface like pavement)? I have adjusted the clutch free play twice and still sometimes hear the engine wind up faster than the bike speed.

Iím no expert but understand that the clutch uses a judder spring that is supposed to soften clutch engagement but can cause slip when more HP is applied than designed for. My bike is stock, I donít have the stonkin HP that some of you are getting with your mods (I donít even have the go-fast sticker mod).

Maybe. I don't understand wiring well enough to say. But mine don't come on until i use them, as turn signals; only the headlight is on when i switch on the ignition switch. So i suppose that is a feature of the US version. I don't know whether mine (South Africa) is the Thailand version or AUS version or what. It does not have the charcoal canister for fumes - so far i know, that's always a US feature, only.

Yeah i wired the rear up and everything worked. then i wired up the front minus the one wire and the only thing that comes on now is the tail light and the headlight.. just scratching my head

saw on another forum someone had to use these to change 3wires for blinkers down to two.. didnt didnt want to add more wires it is tight up there the way it is.

Has anyone had an issue with the clutch slipping when you jump on the gas with the clutch lever out (on a good traction surface like pavement)? I have adjusted the clutch free play twice and still sometimes hear the engine wind up faster than the bike speed.

Iím no expert but understand that the clutch uses a judder spring that is supposed to soften clutch engagement but can cause slip when more HP is applied than designed for. My bike is stock, I donít have the stonkin HP that some of you are getting with your mods (I donít even have the go-fast sticker mod).

Thanks

No slipping here. If anything, it seems "abrupt" at times, especially in the lower gears.

Hey guys, new here. Been lurking around this thread for a while. Decided to sign up today since, if everything works out, I'll be picking up my new CRF250L on Saturday! Pretty excited! Been trying to get these guys down to the price I want. First quote was almost $5700! Our sales tax here in WA is pretty high, but I'm hoping to get the price a lot lower than that. Not to experienced at buying, but we'll see how it goes. I'll post pics as soon as it's home.

Also brand new here, have just been reading along happily and waiting for my chance to buy my own CRF250L. I just got the go ahead so I'm starting to check around...first quote I got from Lake City Powersports was $5627. When I asked if there was even a chance to get it for under $5,000 I was told "If I find a used one I'll let you know." The MSRP on this bike is $4,499 how in the hell do dealers get away with price gauging like this? Let me know what you find Alex and I'll keep looking myself. Hopefully we'll both get bikes without breaking the bank.

Also brand new here, have just been reading along happily and waiting for my chance to buy my own CRF250L. I just got the go ahead so I'm starting to check around...first quote I got from Lake City Powersports was $5627. When I asked if there was even a chance to get it for under $5,000 I was told "If I find a used one I'll let you know." The MSRP on this bike is $4,499 how in the hell do dealers get away with price gauging like this? Let me know what you find Alex and I'll keep looking myself. Hopefully we'll both get bikes without breaking the bank.

Here, it was $4,449, plus $300 "destination fee", then $150 "delivery fee", then $69 "misc. fee" (I think that one made it so I didn't have to deal with the DMV, well worth it). Then state tax $311.43, for a grand total of $5,279. If I crash, and burn this one, and survive, another one on order real soon.

Given that these things are getting hard to get due to their popularity, I'd say if you can find one, and then get the dealer to knock anything off, just grab it. $56xx... okay, say $5500 out the door (if that includes sales tax)... and go ride and enjoy it. Is it worth the frustration of going dealer to dealer over a couple hundred dollars? :)

The only "discounts" you might be able to get will be on dealer fees like "assembly" or "delivery" (not destination)... so really, best you're gonna do is maybe $100-200 off, IMO.

Re: Washington vs Oregon... wherever you register it depends on sales tax. If you live in Oregon, you can buy in Washington and still pay no sales tax. But if you buy it in Oregon and live in Washington, they'll hit you for sales tax when you register it... unless you can use an Oregon address and get Oregon plates.

Unless you are active duty military like I am. You can be stationed outside and buy outside of Washington state and pay no sales tax when you register. Unless the state you buy in charges you sales tax and purchase time. But to avoid that you can private party. I was about to buy in Oregon but they didn't come down in price so it was a better and easier deal to buy from ellensburg,wa then deal with a DMV visit. And saved me 200$ and having to deal with California expensive fees and there dmv sucks also