Acoustical caulk, if installed as a full load into the open seam or joint will maintain the STC of the wallboard, (sheetrock, drywall, etc), but this entails a lot of caulk.

You need to caulk the full depth of the seam, not just lay a bead in it. “Backer Square” helps here; it’s a closed cell foam (far superior to open cell foam ‘backer rod’ commonly used by contractors to reduce the amount of caulk needed in seams).

The technique is to apply the Backer Square (1/2″X1/2″ or 3/4″X1″) where the wallboard is to be installed with a bit of a recess to as to leave some room for the caulk. It has an adhesive backing, so is easy to install and won’t move as the caulk is used over it to fill the gap. This saves caulk and saves time caulking. On a big job, it gets tiresome squeezing the handle of the caulk gun!

We were the first Western Region distributors for GREEN GLUE! We stock massive quantities of it and sell it in odd lots (Tubes) so you don’t have to buy more than you need!

For existing walls, just apply Green Glue to some new sheets of drywall and stick it up on the wall, fasten in a few places, tape off and paint or wallpaper! For bare studding or ceiling joists, for double drywalling, use MLV. Apply padding tape to the studs before hanging the sheets for even more enhanced sound control! Easy to use, for small jobs it comes in caulk-type 29 oz. tubes or in buckets for large jobs. A case of 12 covers about 190 Sq. Ft. (A wall 24′ long and 8′ high). Dollar for dollar delivered, the best value in soundproofing products!

The Ultimate in a Sound Damping Coating!Almost like a soundproofing sound deadening paint! (See the Video!)

Use this acoustic treatment to block and dampen sound!

Super Soundproofing Co™, (San Marcos, Ca.) master distributors, is introducing Noxudol 3101, a patented water-based soundproofing sound insulation and deadening compound. Along with being water-based, it absorbs noise and vibration, is sprayable, nontoxic, dries hard. It works really well for damping resonance in aluminum, steel, fiberglass and poly-glass. It is nonabrasive, anti-corrosive, protects against condensation and is ideal for automotive, industrial and railway applications. Plus – the flame-retardant properties are awesome!

While not a sound proofing paint, it’s pretty close! (It’s thicker, but can be sprayed). For sound barrier, use MLV.

Sound deadening with Noxudol 3101Reference object – Djupviks ShipyardBefore: Usually, they glued 1,5 mm aluminium plate with 1 mm glue on the inside of the hull. This required 1 working hour per sqm. All the aluminium plates had to be cut to the exactly right size. The weight per sqm was 5 kg.Today: All vertical places, which need sound damping, included the frame ribs, are treated with Noxudol 3101. Up to 5 kg/sqm can be applied without exceeding the cost for the material of the old system. However, Noxudol 3100€™s unique sound damping properties and the possibility to treat 100 % of all vertical surfaces and frame ribs, reduce the requirement of material to about 2 kg/sqm (about 3 litre/sqm wet material). They apply up to 3 kg/sqm on surfaces where extra sound damping is required.

Notes on application: To obtain proper results of sound deadening, the material needs to be built up on the surface it is applied to, with a number of coats, drying somewhat between coats, (It dries quickly), increasing the thickness to 3/16th to 1/4″. It can be sprayed with our special sound control spraygun!Not available in spray cans.It will dry hard and firm with a beige color.

Use for autobody sound control and undercoating. Pickup bed coating! Computer side panels. Reduce noise in washing machines or dryers by painting the back sides. Soundproofing built-in light or recessed fixtures.

Interior windows are fitted to the inside frame of your existing windows and held in place with magnets, providing excellent sound reduction. Please give us some info on how to contact you about how the windows are fitted and to discuss your needs. Indicate if you feel competent to measure them and install them or need someone to come out and do it. It’s best to have one of our experts call you. (We pay for the call that way!).

For maximum sound reduction, the plastic acrylic panels should be thick and heavy, at least 1/4″ thick. They should be readily removable. They should not yellow from UV (Ultra Violet) sun rays over time. They should be relatively inexpensive to buy and make. They must fit well to eliminate sound leaks.

To overcome these and other shortcomings and still be able to have a reasonably cost effective product, we introduce:

MAGNETSEAL FRAMING for acrylic panels..

Start by taking your window measurements top, bottom and sides – for the plastic panel you need. (Which you can obtain locally from any plastics outlet. (Look in the Yellow Pages under Plastic Suppliers). Have them cut your plastic 1/4″ or 3/8″ thick panel to size. You need to decide whether to fit the flat sheet inside the edge frame of your window or over the face of the frame. We recommend fitting over the entire wall opening because it will give a little more dead air space, which is what makes these types of windows work so well. Fitting to the inside opening may be more difficult than you imagine, especially if the opening is not square. Only an inch or so oversize of the opening is needed.

Take your acrylic edge measurements and add them together to order enough steel “Mounting Frame” and our special “peel off adhesive backed” 1″ wide Magnetic Tape for the job. To install a 1/4″ or 3/8″ acrylic (Plexiglas) panel in your window you will need 4 “L” shaped metal trim pieces and enough magnetic tape for attachment to around the edges of your acrylic panels. The trim and the tape are sold by the foot, so you only have to buy what you need.

To install your window: Flush or Recessed?

Apply tape tape strips all around the acrylic edges as shown.

Attach the “L” shaped metal mounting trim to the window frame edges using screws, double sided tape or adhesive – if the new window is wider and taller and to be mounted over the face of the opening, attach the trim angle over and around, covering the entire frame opening.

*

If Recessed, (This is harder to do) attach with the one leg of the “L” facing toward the existing window, just recessed enough for the new plastic panel to be flush with the opening frame as shown.

Magna-Seal Window

Tips:

Make sure the magnetic tape does not have any gaps in the butt edges where it mates with other strips of tape at the corners. These gaps will leak sound.

See that your “L” shaped trim is flat and square (not twisted or distorted) with the magnetic tape for maximum attachment strength. Caulk the corners if there is any gap. The “L” trim goes around the entire perimeter of the window frame, not just in the corners as is shown for clarity in the drawings. If your windows has a “sill” to support the new window pane, you’ll not need tape and “L” channet for the bottom edge. If no sill a few pane support screws should be added to prevent the pane from sliding down.

If there are any gaps that could leak sound, fill with caulk.

To quickly remove a flush window, use a bit of sticky tape.

Notes: If you desire a window that will not yellow or pass UV in the very long term, ask for Museum grade acrylic. It will not yellow or pass UV for 20 years or more. (Regular acrylic will last 7- 10 or more years, depending on climate and UV present). Another of the advantages of using acrylic is that you can get it with tinting!

It’s best not to use polycarbonate or Lexan because it’s unbreakable and may delay in an emergency.

Tips on your existing windows: They must not pass any air through any gaps or crevices. Caulk or otherwise seal them off. If need be, use some of our black foam, closed cell tape to make a gasket where they close.

If you have steel frames, (not aluminum!), you can use the magnetic tape without buying our metal framing stock. The plastic sheet will have to fit over and on the face on your frame. If you want to mount this way, you don’t need the “L” frame, just use the magnetic tape, but you may not have much essential air space.

You’ll need the small screws we supply to attach the L” shaped metal mounting frame, use the sheet metal type to attach to a metal frame (You’ll need to drill small pilot holes), and the supplied wood screws if PVC or wood. Construction adhesive can also be used. Double sided tape could be used with a small window, depending on the durability of the tape. Do not attach the “L” with the screws on the face where the plastic sheet goes!

* Why not just use glass? Of course glass can be used and may even be cheaper. But consider this:

The chance of breakage is far greater when installing and especially when removing the panes from the frame for cleaning, etc. For this reason, use safety glass as it has a plastic center/filler which reduces (but doesn’t eliminate) the hazard of shatter and splinter effect if broken. If it falls out and breaks, it will be finished – not like plastic.

* IMPORTANT: Keep the heat build-up in mind in the windows airspace that might occur if the window is facing the sun- your blinds, curtain, etc may get fried if they are inside the enclosure. Window tint on the existing window might be in order if that could be an issue.

Resiliently mounted wall Gypsum board (Drywall/ Sheetrock/ Wallboard) is now a industry standard for reducing sound transfer between walls in rooms. The AS-1 Sound Isolation Mounting Clip (SIMC) is used with Furring Channel (DWFC) in order to mount these drywall panels. This clip has several molded neoprene grommets that provides high sound insulation between the panel and the framing. Slots and holes in the flanges can mount the DWFC in a variety of positions, eliminating the need for costly special brackets or time consuming furring-out blocks.

Shown Installed on a stud or joist.

Mounting Horizonally

Shown mounting horizontally or vertically as needed.

For existing wallboard, a slot is cut to insert the unused leg then mounted & fastened over the stud. Call us to discuss what to do about the “Resonant Chamber” created.

Build out of the clip/channel assembly can be less than 1/4″ over the face of the DWFC past the framing member. (see below) or built out even more as desired to straighten uneven framing.

Recessed to minimize wall build out

Recessed to minimize wall build out

Conventional Install

To build out and straighten a wall

To build out and straighten a wall

Recessed to minimze build out

MLV may be placed over clips with sound isolation tape installed.

The rubber mounting grommets used are unique “Pull-Down” units designed to lock the clip in place by compressing the rubber. Depending on the application, not all three grommets are needed.

It mounts with drywall screws (or other fasteners appropriate to the material to which it’s mounted), providing a low-profile sound control system that is low-cost and simple to implement.

One mount is used for every four to eight sq. ft. of wallboard area. A typical 8′ wall would have AS-1 clips mounted to the studs in three horizontal rows with fasteners, one row a few inches from the top and another few inches from the bottom and another in the middle. 2″ Neoprene 3/8″ thick Vibration pads are spaced every 2′ on the floor to support the edge of the new drywall panels. The drywall panels are then attached to the DWFC vertically with drywall screws in the normal manner. A gap must be provided where the walls meet the ceiling and other walls and sealed with a full load of acoustical caulk. Since the full weight of the drywall is not hanging from the DWFC, but is simply balanced there, (supported by the Neoprene pads), the loading on the clips rubber mountings is much less, improving the sound reduction dramatically.

The gap at the floor is sealed either with lots of caulk and/or with “Backer Square” to reduce the amount of caulk needed to seal the gap left by the vibration pad. Adding one layer of 5/8″ Fire Code Drywall in this manner will double or triple the sound reduction of the existing wall. More sound reduction would be obtained by adding more sound control elements into the project. (Green Glue, etc).

These clips can be used to add a floating wall to a wall where the existing drywall needn’t be removed.

Ceilings would be similar to the above. However, due the fact we have not completed testing on the load handling capabilities of the clips, we don’t recommend using them for hanging ceilings at this time.

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