RE: TeamZleep

Rebleed the system. The purchasers on page 1 had no issues. NGP used this flywheel on their turbo 2.5 rabbit.

The overall stack height on this kit and the oem kit are the same as measured mounted on crank flange.

Originally Posted by vw93to85

I got 600 miles on mine. I'm gonna wait till I hit 1,000 miles and do an oil change before I really start hammering on it. I've laid into it a couple times in the past few days and it feels great. The clutch pedal feels like something is actually there and the shifts feel so much better.

I know its stupid that they rivit the ring on the diff... I've got a nice drill press and air hammer, so I hope i will be able to get at it

I did my LSD install, and those rivets are a B!^ch to remove, luckily i have access to a mill and a
Hydraulic press, and the ring is also pressed on to the Diff...if you have any question let me know, i just
did my install about 3 weeks ago, with a Four seasons Single mass Fly and Vr6 Clutch after you brake them
in its worth it.

I did my LSD install, and those rivets are a B!^ch to remove, luckily i have access to a mill and a
Hydraulic press, and the ring is also pressed on to the Diff...if you have any question let me know, i just
did my install about 3 weeks ago, with a Four seasons Single mass Fly and Vr6 Clutch after you brake them
in its worth it.

What did you do about shimming and tolerances? Thats the thing I'm truly worried about. You dont need a ticking time bomb that costs as much as your dif,trans case, synchros and in put shaft once they go kaboom!

I would do it, but worry about it...

I am going to be ordering this lightened flywheel and stage 2 kit VERY soon. I'm thinking I'm feeling slop in the dual mass. And well I think I'll start slipping soon. 10lbs of boost on the oem clutch with 80k on it... Thinking it's going to go some time soon

So stage 2 it is for me... I think the clutch net 2x pressure plate with the organic full face disc and the steel flywheel will be good. Or should I opt for the kevlar or carbon disc? Truthfully, which will have the best life, holding power, and heat resistance? Also need drivability to be good. I dont mind a hard pedal, but I do not want instant grab type on/off operation... Please let me know

Is there a recommended break in process for your clutch/flywheel kits on the rabbit?

Also, a big to James West at FST for helping me out and making sure my stuff was overnighted. Haven't driven my rabbit much (since it's going back to the mechanic tomorrow because of some noise coming from a pulley) but it feels SO much better than stock...

I've read through the thread (unlike some people I seen here...) and am wondering if anyone has been using the aluminum alloy flywheel? All the sales i've seen are for the billet steel flywheel. I'll be needing a clutch shortly and I think I am siding with the billet for the reduced noise.

I've read through the thread (unlike some people I seen here...) and am wondering if anyone has been using the aluminum alloy flywheel? All the sales i've seen are for the billet steel flywheel. I'll be needing a clutch shortly and I think I am siding with the billet for the reduced noise.

I've been running a billet flywheels and the vr stage 1 clutch setup for over a year now. Love it, no issues or complaints

Sorry let me clarify, I've been running the billet aluminum flywheels with no issues for over a year now with no problems

Ahhh... I see. Well no issues is different then chatter and other noise. How is that? I'd like to run the aluminum flywheel but the noise issue I think is putting me off. The billet steel is definitely a go unless I get enough responses saying other wise

Ahhh... I see. Well no issues is different then chatter and other noise. How is that? I'd like to run the aluminum flywheel but the noise issue I think is putting me off. The billet steel is definitely a go unless I get enough responses saying other wise

Personally I don't notice any chatter, I've had a couple random times at idle where I've noticed a slight throw out bearing noise. It was very faint though. I should throw out there that I've got a bfi stage 2 trans mount so all noises are amplified in the cabin. Before that never noticed any difference from stock except how quick the motor winds up.

I personally do notice the chatter, but it doesn't bother me. Sometimes it's more noticeable than others, and it honestly seems random. At first it bothered me, but only because I had started driving my car after having the engine replaced (and before I took back the car, it had a super loud pulley noise), and I was listening for every single little thing that might not be normal; and I had no clue what the sound was. I only made the connection when the sound went away when I put the clutch in, and after that it didn't bother me anymore.

My rabbit does rev faster, and while shifting, the revs fall faster too. The engine does shut down quicker as well when I turn the ignition off, but I have also had the engine stay on after a deeper stall.

Not sure if this is attributable to the replacement engine, or the clutch, but the rabbit does feel faster to me. All in all, I have no complaints.

Finally got my stage 1 clutch, pressure plate, and steel billet flywheel. No shifting issues with NLS short shifter and 42 draft designs shifter bushings set. Also had my Wavetrac LSD installed and a new timing chain. Couldn’t be happier with the new clutch setup, much easier to drive with this new setup. The real test will be this weekend, going to Roebling Road this weekend for a HPDE.

What about the hose fitting seals??

I'm working on my new to me 2005.5 2.5.
I had it about a week when the Clutch Slave failed.
I had the same hard shifting, lurching into reverse and all that was described above.

I tried old school bleeding and it would come up but not stay, so I replaced the Slave cylinder.

I've been through hell trying to get the new slave bleed,
Used my reverse flow pump (no luck),
Standing gravity bleed (nope didn't work either),
Even a pressure bleeder (well, that gave me disengagement for about 10 minutes),
Then after letting it sit for an hour cold, while I re-read every section of the Bently DVD again, I discovered that both seals on the metal hose ends were weeping.

Did you guys replace those two little seals when you changed the clutches.
I know the Bently says inspect and replace if showing wear, but both of mine looked just fine. They had been fine right up until I disconnected them.

Flywheel won't change it, the issue is the software coding.
The info below is from the Mk5 Self Study Program.

Clutch Position Sensor G476
The Clutch Position Sensor G476 is a Hall effect device that signals the engine control module that the clutch pedal has moved.
This deactivates the cruise control system and briefly reduces fuel to the fuel injectors to prevent engine shudder during the resulting gear change.
For additional information on the accelerator, brake and clutch pedal assembly please refer to
SSP 861403 “The new Jetta Steering and Suspension”.