The dark wooden bar spans almost the entire length of the main room at the Holyrood 9A – and its length is well utilised, with 25 taps of rotating global and local brews served in four different sizes for optimal sampling. Beer also runs the length of the menu, cropping up in beer-battered onion rings and, more unusually, in mayo, mustard and ice-cream. Bulky burgers in 16 meaty and veggie styles – from classic beef and barbecue to flat cap mushroom, sun-blushed tomato and mozzarella – are served in the obligatory brioche bun, on an optional board. Those who want to buck the trend for having their food served in tins, jars or bits of old bric-a-brac can request it on a plate, just like the good old days. Bar games also step back in time, with classics like Connect 4 to help while away a Sunday afternoon over a Bloody Mary – your hangover should cope with the competition after a vast Holyrood breakfast.