quite a difference in the rears, with the reservoir shock being closer to the desired lengths.

So my issue is i would rather run the non reservoir shocks seeing as the fronts would work no differently, yet what would i need to do to make the rears work? And if im going to put the reservoir shocks in the rear, than im going to have to put them in the front as well seeing as there probably more usefull in the front anyways.

I have spent the last 2 days price searching and have found the non reservoirs for 94$ and the reservoirs for 128$ dont get me wrong both a killer price but 30 buck more a piece adds up and there both going to be much better than stock alreadys.

let me know what you guys think of this situation. more than likely i will not be going for anything less than the 7100's just for the fact of being able to buy a set of shocks and be able to rebuild them for the lifetime of my PW.

well im looking to upgrade from the stock shocks on her right, as well as being able to rebuild them when that time comes. truck see's alot of rough gravel roads hill climbs, mild rock climbing, as well as daily driver.

I have progressed up through various levels of shocks in my PW and here is what I noticed as far as performance. What valving are you thinking of getting on the 7100s?

OEM Bilstein's PW specific valving:
- compliant and absorbent but not overly soft
- some noticeable side to side sway
- when pushed hard they go right to the bump-stops
- they fade when pushed hard for a long period

Bilstein 5100's:
- somewhat stiffer than the OEM's
- a more controlled feel than the OEM's not as much side to side sway
- when pushed hard they go right to the bump-stops
- they fade when pushed hard for a long period

Bilstein 7100's with Carli Performance 2.0 PW valving:
- slightly stiffer than the 5100's
- the more you push them the better they feel
- when pushed hard they don't go right to the bump-stops but resist
- they don't noticeable fade when pushed hard for a long period

King 2.5" Pin-Tops with Carli Hemi valving:.
- like driving a high-end sports car around town
- its like being glued to the road, but you feel every imperfection
- no sway in the corners, the more you push them the better they like it
- I can do 45-50 mph down a dirt road and hit fairly sizable ruts and bumps comfortably
- on rough roads I find myself waiting for the "wam bam" on big bumps but nothing happens, just a soft thump
- no fading when pushed hard for a long period

im looking to get the 255/70 i was curious as to what the carli's are near but im sure thats kept private. my pw takes a good beating here and there so i dont think they would be too agressive. you think the reservoirs are crucial? I have not looked yet but im thinking i may be able to fab something up to compensate for the extra length of the non reservoir option. or just go with the reservoir and its pretty damn close of the bat.

im looking to get the 255/70 i was curious as to what the carli's are near but im sure that's kept private. my pw takes a good beating here and there so i don't think they would be too aggressive. you think the reservoirs are crucial? I have not looked yet but im thinking i may be able to fab something up to compensate for the extra length of the non reservoir option. or just go with the reservoir and its pretty damn close of the bat.

Unless you drive for long distances on ruff dirt roads at moderate to high speeds I don't think the reservoirs are required. The 255/70 valving is a good option plan on it being a little firm around town.

Hey so you have clearly changed out your shocks a few times, have you noticed if there might be room to move the top mount up or further down the line from the lower mount? Cause to make the non reservoirs work I would need to gain around 3 inches, or else there would be a chance of them bottoming on full flex correct? Seeing as there 19 inches collapsed and they need to be around 16.

Hey so you have clearly changed out your shocks a few times, have you noticed if there might be room to move the top mount up or further down the line from the lower mount? Cause to make the non reservoirs work I would need to gain around 3 inches, or else there would be a chance of them bottoming on full flex correct? Seeing as there 19 inches collapsed and they need to be around 16.

The best way to mount the front's is to use an adapter like Carli does (see pic) 4wheelparts sell something similar to this as well see link below.

it would be 3 inches longer collapsed and extended. meaning upon full flex the side to be compressed will actually be bottoming out 3 inches sooner, because it has the extra length, in theory you would gain 3 inches on the extended side but unusable because the compressed side would be bottomed out.

now thats just what im thinkin in my head and im not sure if that would be how it works but seeing as its solid axle +3 inches rise on one side would be -3 inches on the other.

Yeah it was those pics that originally got me looking into the 7100's about how much did the set run ya? If I ever get some time after work I would be able to get these numbers I need just been getting worked like a dog lately.

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