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Chrysler Pacifica Transmission Problems

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Wow! in reading the horror stories, it makes me wonder what is up with our 2007 Pacifica Touring. We purchased the car used, with 26,000 miles on it. The carfax was clean, it had been a lightly used fleet vehicle before being sold into the wholesale chain that got it to our dealer. It was at a really good price, and very low mileage compared to the other cars. The transmission issues were the only warning we received in our research, but it appears that only some people have the issues.

Here we are a few years down the road, and my wife thinks this is the best car she has ever had. She is a bit of a lead-foot, and drives a high-speed toll road with aggressive 90 mile an hour drivers every day in her 45 to 70 minute commute each day. So this isn't grandma driving. We are past 100,000 miles now, and the only problem we have had is the shifter interlock broke. The interlock is a small plastic part with a spring that presses on a switch, to tell the computer you are in park, and it is ok to let you start the car. If the interlock is broken, it thinks you are not in park, and the car won't start. This is a common problem, I have seen it in many makes of car. They often get gummed up, sticky, or the switch wears out, or in the case of the Pacifica the plastic anchor point for the return spring broke off, so the engine would not start as a result. And this didn't just suddenly fail, intermittently it would refuse to start, then for no apparent reason after many attempts it would start... So I think that the Interlock was probably failing for a while before the spring broke completely off.

The interlock part is a small plastic part, but the replacement includes the entire shifter assembly, which is fairly pricy. being a dealer-only custom order part, there is no way to get on on a weekend, and being without the car means I have to give my wife my pickup, since I have a shorter drive to the office... and I can't be without my truck for that long... So I decided to repair the unit, I took a very small drill bit and made a hole in a stong part of the interlock cam, so I could attach the spring. I intended to order the part anyway, as who knows how long my repair would last... Well, I never got the part ordered, and it's been over a year since I did the repair.

I'm getting ready to have a brake job done, the first one, but they tell me the back brakes are still almost like new, only the front breaks need R&R (about $450). The front pads are about gone, and the front rotors are a bit warped, so the $450 covers new rotors, caliper rebuild parts, and a good flushing for both the front and rear.

I also need a new set of tires ($650 to $850 installed depending on whether we get the good tires or not (we are getting the good ones)).

The guy that did my safety inspection told me that the dealer had skipped some of the maintenance items on the 90k service, so I'm not really happy about that... But other than the fact I avoided a $500 repair on the shifter interlock, no unexpected issues have occurred.

We have the front-wheel drive version, so that may be part of why our problems may be fewer than others here... We also don't have any teens driving it. Lead-foot 50-something adults with safe driving habits... but no peel-outs or aggressive driving.

We do notice a small hard-shift sometimes, and when the wife is backing out of the driveway, it sometimes makes a low moan as she steps on the brakes... but I think that sound is just a minor noise from the rear of the vehicle where there are few parts of consequence... could be the brakes, or perhaps the rear shocks. But these are just minor intermittent sounds, nothing like the other reports here.

Hey. Please help. Pacifica, when engine warms up well, on red light it shuts down. After it can be started by putting gear to neutral. After that if I put it in Drive, it shuts down again! Anyone had similar problem? Changed transmission output sensor.

So it starts fine, you drive it OK, and once it's warmed up, it shuts down when you stop (and are still in gear) at a red light? Put it back in neutral, restart OK. When you put it in gear again, you're on the brake and not moving? Just trying to get a clear picture of what's happening.

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Does it slam into gear and just quit like you dropped the clutch on a manual transmission? If so, the torque convertor lock-up clutch might be locking the convertor. You might need a transmission shop to look at this.

I have had a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica for a little over 3 years. Purchased in 2011 with only 30k miles. Replaced transmission between 50k-60k and now at 110k i believe its going to be number 2. Anyone know a place to purchased a cheap reconditioned one near the Quad Cities? Davenport Ia.

We have a 2005 Pacifica, FWD bought used now has just over 85K. We have the pesky tire pressure sensor message-and I just can't see spending all that money for parts/labor just to have that message go away-is there a HACK for that?

We had the shifter lockout problem-fixed that with a aluminum billet replacement found online-100% fix.we took the car in for a free inspection 2 weeks ago because we noticed a "thud" on acceleration. Shop said it was engine misfires (no codes) and lower A-arms were bad. I took the car home-bought my own parts and replaced them myself. The A-arms looked ok to me, all rubber looked good, but I replaced them anyway (bought online $45 each). I also pulled off the intake plenum and did the plugs and spark boots (not the 6 coil packs). We did pop a code (P0441 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM PURGE FLOW FAULT PURGE FLOW FAULT) - and I did NOT use a new intake plenum gasket when I put it back together thinking it looked fine and would probably do the trick. It's $9 and I plan to replace it today to see if it makes that code go away. I'll be searching the internet before I buy one and dive into that little job beforehand to hopefully save myself the trouble. So, after putting the plenum back on-Test drive='Thud'!I popped the hood and told my wife to drive off-'thud'-FRONT MOTOR MOUNT. I came across a YouTube video that showed me what I was about to get into and offered GREAT tips on easy removal. The front mount was cracked open from acceleration and is filled with oil-prepare for that mess because you have to rotate the entire bracket 360 degrees to get the housing frame and mount out-then you replace the mount in the housing frame-and reverse the procedure to get it back in. It was still difficult and I would advise this maintenance for just anyone; but if you've dropped subframe-type maintenance before-then you can probably handle this. Replaced the front motor mount (looks like a rubber air bag, is filled with oil inside and is mounted in a housing frame bracket ) and left side torque mount (little dog bone) that is bolted in next to the wheel well and front bumper shroud underneath-so be sure to turn the wheel all the way left AFTER you jack it up and get the car on jack stands-ALL OF THIS would be much easier on a lift, but (after removing the left side torque mount) I had to jack the engine up to get the front motor mount housing frame bracket out. Car seems to work fine, but there is a bit of a 'shudder' when you let off the gas just after the last shift point-I'm guessing this is probably leaking seals inside the transmission and possible a torque converter. The wife is complaining about the shudder-only because she is daily city driving to school, stores, etc, with occasional road trips no more than 4 hours at a time. I don't know if I should bother with transmission trouble shooting or just avoid the entire hassle and get a (HOPEFULLY) good rebuilt transmission with NEW torque converter and hope for the best; the other option is to let it ride then wait for the no question signs of a bad transmission to rear their ugly head. It seems to shift fine, no lagging, slipping or hard shifting-just a shudder after the last up shift during acceleration and only if you let off the gas just as it happens. I feel like it might just be a fluid flow or pump "interruption" just as its done doing its job-like I'm dropping the RPMs and it's justifiably complaining a little-I don't think it's a huge deal-but I could be wrong.I also decided to do the brakes while I had the wheels off and found out that the front wheels turn in Park while up on Jack stands-the Emergency Brake Was the only way to stop the wheels from turning while removing the loosened lug nuts. Cold this be because of the aftermarket aluminum billet shifter lockout bracket? We still have to put our foot on the brake to shift (which I messed with a little while I had it apart-figured out how that lockout works to see if it could be bypassed). It could not be bypassed; and the car does not roll when in park-so no worries-just though that it was weird for a FWD car to have the wheels moving while up on Jack stands.The rear brakes were more than 50% more worn than then front brakes, which I feel is probably appropriate, knowing that it's a city driven car-all the rotors looked REALLY good, so I saved money there (they checked straight with a 'homemade jig' that checks for warpage-like checking a bicycle wheel for straight).It's all back together except for a new air filter and intake plenum gasket-any suggestions on that P0441 Code?

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Wow I was good until yesterday, I have 2006 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5 fwd touring 110,000 miles bought in 2012 smooth vehicle, until the engine went, the warranty people tried so hard to say I ran it with no oil but I had my oil change records, the result was they had to replace engine never told me how oil disappeared, if that's not horrible enough upon them replacing engine (Chrysler dealership) I got vehicle back and three days after engine replacement am on the highway and get off my exit come to a light and boom bright white light then fire, then alot shorts followed make a long story short the tech had crossed a wire from starter and it was making contact which made the battery smoke, even after all this I kept it and had them fix the issues they caused which in their words was just the starter and the battery, so why does my radio speakers go in and out and only three work out of the eight, anyway this was less then a year ago yesterday I pulled into parking spot and as I always do I put it in reverse but this time something was different I stepped on gas and nothing it just sat there one second later I lightly step on gas and it just started jolting accelerating on its own, am in reverse, I release gas and step on brake pedal and still this thing is going accelerating well the inevitable happened I smashed into the car to the side of me damaging door and mirror going at least 7 to 8 mph and still I think that's not the worst part after all this I try and start it and shift into gear and this thing sounded like it was trying to transform no more jolt just sounds like a sword fight when I try and shift gears she has been officially side lined. it could of been worse. Has anyone experienced this at all p.s. a year ago I would be driving and hit gas then car shuts off any advice would help me as per my screen name

We have a 2007 Pacifica Touring with a 4.0 Engine. It has 175,000 miles, and has been a wonderful car NO major problems at all. But last month we started having transmission problems. It was the old "engine dies when put in drive" syndrome; that I now know to be a typical transmission problem for the 62TE 6-speed transmission. After a lot of research and NO answers, I started with the most basic and common problem: the solenoid module. I bought a new one on-line for $180 and spent 2 days getting it in without dropping the tranny. After a job well done, I started up the car, backed it out, (because it WILL go in reverse)... and put it in drive again. SAME problem; not fixed. So I learned that the next things to look at is the wiring, (ck ok) speed sensors (not relevant) and the torque converter. Well, after 170,000 miles I'm not going to pull the transmission to replace the torque converter ($250) just to find out "that ain't it either!" Nobody online had a real solution. So I talked to a friend at a transmission shop and he agreed that we should do the "limp-home" test: start the engine and pull the large 26-pin plug on the front of the unit. Then put it in drive. If it takes off (up to 2nd gear) then it may not be a mechanical problem, but is more likely an electrical or "brain damage" issue. Well, it DIED as soon as I went into drive. Ah-ha! - That means it's a mechanical issue with the tranny. Get a re-manufactured one for $2,500. Have it done by a pro-shop (or your warranty is no good) $850. On Tuesday he called to say that "Hooray! it now goes into DRIVE smoothly and without the old clunks, and runs beautifully.... except.... now it DIES when put into reverse. "Doh!!" ...No kidding. He says, "only Chrysler has the test equipment to really find the fault codes, etc. to get to the root of this problem. These units are 'smart' transmissions that actually self-program, and 'learn' etc. There isn't any way for us to check it out (it may have been a bad re-man tranny) without their certified testing and re-programming. ($120). So, long story short, this isn't something to start guessing at. I'm a pretty good mechanic, and I've read how stumped other mechanics are with this issue. Get professional (and accountable) help. We have an appointment on Monday at the local Chrysler Service Shop. Pray for us. Btw: we're GOING to fix this car. With a new/working tranny, and some servicing at home, we're hoping to drive another 175,000 miles. We certainly can't buy a reliable, great car (that my wife loves) for $4,000.

Eureka!!!! Your problems are solved.. If your having shuttering problems, problems with your EGR, idle air control, throttle positioning sensor, car not turning over, car acting erratically or dying out and even transmission issues such as going in limp mode not switching gears... It is in 2 places the wire harness!!!!1) Under the tire well above the dog bone for suspension is a Negative or ground cable bolted to the transmission this sometimes comes loose and will prevent your car from starting or even turning over.. There is also a harness that passes over this bolt which will rub out on the back side in time.. This will cause problems in the egr, i.a.c., t.p.s and Ats.... Fix the wire fix the problem2) if you open your hood under your battery not directly but down low youll see your solenoid packs and other transmission sensors follow these to the thicker wire harness down to wear it almost touches the frame and meets other wire harnesses... The back side of this "crossroad" rubs up against some kind of flange on the transmission with bolt holes in it.. This is the problem with transmission issues in the 2004 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5l.. Fix the wire fix the problem!!! I spent alot of money on parts to figure out this simple easy cheap fix.. Make sure to reinforce protection in the back of theose wires during fix.. Hope i save dyou some

I have a 2007 Pacifica touring 4.0 with 113,000 miles on it and I loved it all the way up til last Friday..... Pulled into a parking spot at work, got half way in the spot car died, place it in park restarted it out it in drive give it has dies, after two more attempts I put it in reverse and it goes backwards like it should but back into drive it dies... Anybody having same issues? Or know what is going on?

In desperate need of some answers. Hopefully someone on here can help..I bought the 04 Pacifica 2wd 145k miles, about 2 months ago from private seller. On the drive home after buying it the check engine light came on. Stopped at auto zone, code p0420 (catalytic convertor). Ended up buying some cataclean and used that a few times (about 4 bottles on separate occasions). Car was running fine. Unhooked battery to reset code hoping the cataclean made a difference. Nope. still reading code p0420 and also a couple small evap leak codes popped up (gas cap is fine btw). Continued to drive it without problem. Except a slight kinda popping sound under front driver side wheel area. I assumed it was a tie rod end or ball joint or something. After checking that it all seemed fine. Sway bar link, tie rod end, upper and lower ball joints were fine. Thought it could be transmission mount, but was never able to actually find the mount under the car. CV joints are going bad but the sound it was making wasn't consistent with bad CV axle sounds.anyway, couldn't figure that out, car was driving fine so I left it alone for the time being.Then about a week ago, I noticed the car was shifting fairly hard, so I jumped on the freeway to give it some gas and see if would keep shifting so hard (jerking), and it wouldn't get out of second gear. RPM's was up to 4500 but car was still accelerating. Which was weird to me. Got off freeway checked the trans fluid. It was a bit thin, but red and full. So I tried it again, and again car wouldn't pass second gear. So I took it home and parked it. tried to drive it again after about 2 hours and car was fine. Was shifting smoothly.So next morning car was shifting smoothly driving fine (except for the popping, clunking sound under driver side front tire area which has worsened alot). But after driving it for a while it began shifting hard again, Jerking through each gear. So went home and Same thing happened the next day. Seemed like it was only happening when the car would heat up.Except the last few days it has been not catching gear (staying in second) from the moment I turn the car on. Except when I drove in the rain. I guess the rain hitting it cooled it off or something. Car would still jerk a little while shifting but it was actually shifting gears. Weird, I know.Took it to a general mechanic shop. It gave a code p0700 there. along with the evap and cat codes. Guy said it was probably the catalytic convertor causing trans to slip. Being clogged and getting too hot (which made sense to me due to previous statement)Took it to a muffler shop to change out the cat. Expert there, said my catalytic convertor was fine and so was my o2 sensor. Ugh.So, took it to a transmission specialist. He hooked up the snap on scanner and it didn't give him the evap or cat codes anymore, but instead gave a code p0700, p0731, and p0716. hmmm. He said he was 95% sure it was my car's "brain" I'm guessing he was referring to the ECM? Not sure. He wasn't very specific and his English wasn't that great.So I took it home. not believing it was the "brain". After a bunch of online forum reading, I thought I would change out the input and output speed control sensors, praying that was my problem. But to no avail.I'm at a loss. I'm really hoping its not the transmission itself, cuz, honestly the car is not even worth replacing the transmission.Could it be the solenoid? The TCM? Do I have a TCM? or the actual brain? Someone please help! I plan on taking it to another transmission shop as soon as I can,(prob tomorrow) but would like some other opinions cuz I'm afraid the transmission shop will tell me its the trans itself, just to get my money.

We bought one of the first customer order 2017 Chrysler Pacifica delivered to Dallas Fully Loaded with every option. With Less than 1200 miles and in under 90 days the car shut down in the middle of the road with my wife, two boys and baby in it. The transmission completely failed. It will take 6 weeks for them to repair it. We've asked for the car to be replaced, but they say the lemon law doesn't apply. I would strongly suggest waiting or looking for another option. #chrysler #pacifica #2017﻿ #transmission #failure