El Gordo

Climbed ground-up and onsight over two days by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach who breached difficulties somewhere in the region of 6c/7a using only trad gear and pegs to protect the circa 450m line.

"A long term dream of mine has come true" explained Schüpbach. "While half the route follows a predominantly "classic" terrain, the other half offers first-class Wenden climbing with several demanding sections past pockets and technical slabs."

GETTING THERE

Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp

ACCESS

From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. From the Reissend Nollen bivy traverse left for circa 30 minutes to reach the base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 5a, 15m

P2: 5a, 50m

P3: 6b+, 55m

P4: 6b+, 15m

P5: 5c, 50m

P6: 3+, 25m

P7: 5b, 50m

P8: 5b, 60m

P9: 6c+, 30m

P10: 6b, 20m

P11: 6c, 35m

P12 6b+, 40

P13: II, 60m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

NOTES

It is worth noting that while the first ascent was made with trad gear and pegs only, bolts were subsequently placed during the descent to facilitate the abseil. Almost all belays are now equipped with at least one bolt.