If, like me, you have time to kill this time of year, and are thinking about next season... I don't mean classics or epics, but 2-3 routes you did this season that don't see much attention, and that you think deserve more. Mine would be

East ridge of Black Kaweah (Western Sierra, class 4). Most people do the crappy southwest chute, but it's not too much farther to pop around like you're headed to Red Kaweah, then climb interesting and mostly better rock from the saddle with the Pinnacles. You can even throw in Koontz and Pyramidal Pinnacles if you're feeling lively.

Thor to Moran (Tetons, 5.4). If you're willing to suffer the bushwhack around Leigh Lake, it's a really cool place to go, and the descent down the Skillet glacier can be epic.

Buck Mountain, North Face, West Couloir (Tetons, AI2, 5.4-ish?). Buck is a nice easy climb via the East Face. To add some spice, drop over the east ridge into upper Avalanche Canyon with some tools and cruise up this. Ortenburger mentions a 5.6 rock step at the top, but it's short and easier than that.

Have you done other routes on Picture peak? Something on Picture Peak (or more than 1 route), is pretty big on my list for next year. Along with new routes on walls at least 10 miles away from closest TH. Beeline (5.10-) on Hulk was kind of nice (fairly new route). North Buttress of Merriam was awesome (although that would be a popular route now, seems like EVERYONE ran to Merriam this summer). Right Couloir on Mendel was great, and seems like it does not really get much traffic.

Golden Spike (5.11d) in Sedona: 5 pitches. Although the crux is tips lieback, the majority of the route is hands on one side and offwidth technque on the otherside due to the flairing nature of the climb. Very physical climbing but very good.

Don't think Picture peak would attract that many people. But can't wait to write a TR about it for multiple sites. Hope you (Rick) will 'like' it on facebook, and comment.

Not too worried... they are old skool .10's.

Yu'll bail before you ya even get off the deck. The quality two lines have some runout slab and face climbing that take minimal-marginal-small to tiny gear. Not your cup of tea. Can't tape up your hands to look cool on them good lines. Besides, you aint no runout face/slab climber. If you can't sow it up, you ain't on it.

Primary reason you do not hear about them.

old school! LOL can't be that bad with sticky rubber. If you can do it, so can I. You never climbed with me, so you have 0 idea of what kind of a climber I am. Although I will avoid swinging my e-penis around and have my actions speak for myself next season This year, I did every single major climb I wanted to do, and topped it out with stuff I didn't expect was possible.

Picture peak is indeed a nice one. Soloed the NE ridge to within 3-4 hundred ft below the crest a couple years back. Turned back at a hanging death block in a 5.9 crack I was too yellow to solo around.

(Edit: make that NE face, the 5.9 route)

Last edited by dug on Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

"Down with the woolly mammothTom Higgins, get over it! [Letters, June issue.] You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone. Be proud that you were the FAer and allow the legend of your abilities to remain true, as it so respectively has. Everyone knows that a Tom Higgins route is tough and spooky. (I will add, though, that I believe that Darryl Hansel’s work is far more sphincter-puckering than yours, even with the many added bolts that he never whined about.)After 34 years of climbing all over this planet, I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun. Climbing is a way of freedom to one’s soul and spirit. I ask that those “ego heads” who make routes so dangerous (why did you even place bolts in the first place if you were so damn good?) and call it “way old,” remain home in their rocking chairs to rethink the true value of the act and life of climbing.I, for one, plead that we leave the conquering mentality out of the climbing world and remember that this whole thing we call climbing is to go out and enjoy the day, the company, the rock, and to simply find peace. Let’s leave the selfishness to the politicians and just go have fun!

— Rick Poedtke, Crowley Lake, California"

Good one Rick. Glad you defend retro-bolting the 'old school' lines and want to go out an have fun on the rock that is brought down to your level. : ) Maybe those guys that retro bolt the other lines also want to have fun, but they are not on your level yet, so they bring a climb down a notch more. Everyone wants to lead a climb that will challenge them just enough that they 'have fun.' Happy thanksgiving, let's all HAVE FUN!

project that I thought I would get on 30+ yrs ago.

Not sure I can haul your ass, but I can haul loads and do best to attempt it...maybe Rick can come along and we all could have fun

The mountain is on SP. It is very remote by CA standards. Honestly I no longer remember if I ever even knew the rock quality. Seems it would have been done long ago if it was any good. (But it looks good!) I have climbed by cl 3 route and remember thinking how good the rock on the ridge was. NF looks like WF Conness only smaller.

The above letter you posted was written due to the fact that two current active guide books had the added bolts in the description as well as the topo.

So they posted a topo and added bolts to his climb while obviously he did not want any bolts added. He even wrote a letter to that magazine where he talked about the situation and stated that he was against the additions (I can find it and post it, if you want). Than you wrote a letter to tell him to calm down and get with the program- the locals want to have fun! This is America! You don’t own the route you put up! If we want to have fun we will add an amount of bolts we think is needed! Get over it Tom! Good one Rick.

Chopping bolts that are in topos is one thing, but you telling the FA party to calm down about added bolts is another.

Also, love the typical Chief e-penis waving "After 34 years of climbing all over this planet." and "I will add, though, that I believe that Darryl Hansel’s work is far more sphincter-puckering than yours." *Pat on the back* that had me rolling, almost as much as you telling TH "This is America!" Chief- the most bad-ass man in the world.

He assisted VC on the FA of this route. It was VC's route and VC in fact authorized Al H. to add the six bolts in doing what he clearly had intended to return to do but never got around to doing. That is fact.

Interesting, why did TH write a letter to that magazine in which he said he did the lead of that 'hair raiser' 1st pitch and did not give consent to any added bolts? Oh he was just an assistant to VC. I get it. Ok. Makes it fine adding bolts to his bold lead. Still, love that letter. "Let's have fun!" )))) Hope you would always be that happy Chief ))) Internet would be a better place.

why did TH write a letter to that magazine in which he said he did the lead of that 'hair raiser' 1st pitch and did not give consent to any added bolts

Please cite the actual letter that he specifically states "he led that hair raiser 1st pitch"....

You will not find one. The HRB Bolt War issue has put VC on the "Do not ever ask me about this G-Damn route again!!!" regret mark.

Also, it is very obvious that have NEVER been on nor ever led a Tom Higgins OR Vern Clevenger slab route. Again, had you ever done so, we would not be having this discussion. Those that have, know the reality of it all........

In response to posts on bolt removal on Hair Raiser, a few thoughts from the one who first led and protected the pitch in, I think, 1975:

My letter in the June, 2005 issue of Climbing ("A Woolly Mammoth Pleads") states, "I respectfully request climbers not alter a route where I'm party to the first ascent. Thank you." I also asked, "If a route has changed (missing bolt, significant feature gone), please contact me before adding bolts." My letter was intended as a request and gentle persuasion. I said, " ... a first ascent is not only a topo of features and moves, but an achievement to be appreciated with fixed protection left as originally done." I hoped to head off further "fixes" of my routes and of "traditional" routes generally, as they seem to be gaining in popularity.

I did not ask for the added bolts on Hair Raiser to be removed. My experience with removing bolts suggests it is counterproductive. Long ago, when I removed the bolts from Hand Jive in Tuolumne because they were placed on rappel (at the time, quite an affront to accepted climbing practice), no one was persuaded by my actions; the rock was scarred; the bolts were quickly replaced; and bolt hangers on a route of mine (the Vision) probably were flattened in retribution (I can't be sure - no one fessed up). It seems bolting and erasing wars do no good. Debate, discussion, posts and letters are the better means for trying to keep the long held agreement among climbers not to alter original protection. (For a fuller discussion, see "Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows," Reid and Falkenstein, Chockstone Press, 1983).

Some posts on this subject speculate about the opinion of my partner on the route, Vern Clevenger, on the need for additional bolts after the first ascent. At the moment, I don't know Vern's opinion. However, I believe adding bolts to an existing route should not be done lightly. Every effort should be made to consult with all those responsible for the climb. I have had partners agree and disagree with my bolt placements on first ascents, and visa versa. I have done (and turned back) from climbs where I felt more, less or differently placed bolts would be good. My opinions or those of partners in such cases did not lead to changing bolts, nor should they.

When I first led the Hair Raiser first pitch, I protected some of it with thin slings snugged around chicken heads. Slinging is essential to making many climbs reasonable to lead. One example is Fantasia at Lover's Leap. I hope no one has decided to add a bolt to this climb because they can't or won't sling a critical knob. There are other such examples.

The tricky move at the beginning of Hair Raiser could lead to injury, but probably not death. Slinging makes the climb an "R," not "X." Still, one should feel comfortable leading a good way out on 5.8 before doing the climb. There are many similar "R" climbs where protection skills are important. I hope the trend is not to bolt them all.

Thank you,

Tom Higgins

Please cite the actual letter that he specifically states "he led that hair raiser 1st pitch"....