Chaetodon meyeri
Bloch & Schneider 1801, Meyer's Butterflyfish. Widespread
in the Indian Ocean to western Pacific Oceans, this species is
another loser that is too-frequently sold as a
"miscellaneous" butterfly. Only eats coral polyps...
Wakatobi pix.

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

hW Marine Products 11/7/06 Hi Crew,
<Hello Andrew> I cannot seem to locate a
retailer for hW marine products. Foster/Smith carries their
salt but that is all. Can you help me out here? <Sure
can. Here is a link for their authorized
dealers. http://www.hawaiianmarine.com/dealers.htm>
Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andrew.

Re: Custom marine system in India - 11/02/06 Dear Bob:
<Sankara> I had asked the following question and it was replied
to as follows. Thank you for your answers. <Welcome> After that,
the idea is slowly simmering and progressing. I have made contact with
people in India and what I understood is that the hobby is very nascent
in India so that we have to get many equipment by import. <This will
change... and soon> That's OK. But we have to know what are the
sizes of equipment needed and what can be fabricated in India (we have
the expertise for that) My "illiterate" helper made an
excellent protein skimmer for my 200 Gallon tank for less than $20. Its
working wonderfully. All he did was to see a similar equipment in
action. So once I know what are needed the slow process of acquiring
material can start. Regarding the site, it will be in the new house I
am planning to build so that everything is factored in properly and
will not be an "extension" ad-hoc job. The land is being
identified. People are at work on that. <Good> I mainly need the
answer to the question what is best, glass or acrylic? <Mmm... of
the two for commercial application, almost always acrylic... it does
scratch more easily, but is much tougher, resistant to breaking...>
then what thickness. Considering the size I think acrylic will be safer
than glass so that there is no danger. What is your take please?
<Quarter inch material is useful for up to 18 inches in water
height... still a good choice for much shallower> This will be a
three year project where the tank will be put in along with the house
and then slowly the equipment will be added so that in 3 years when I
am ready to go back there will be a running system in place. Regarding
opening to Sun, I have experimented and I have found that the Suncool
film for cars really keep out heat without unduly affecting the
spectrum. Still a bit of cooling will be needed as we are right in the
tropics. (Cochin - Kerala - 9 degrees North.) <I understand>
There are no consultancies available in India in designing. The tank
will be on the ground floor so there are no foundation problems. The
concrete sides will be epoxy coated so that cement will not interact
with the salt water. Can we continue the discussion please?
<Certainly. Bob Fenner in Siem Reap, Cambodia, but out to the States
on the morrow>

Just a few questions I seem to be getting the most conflicted
advice on. New Setup Checkup 10/2/06 Hi. Your site is
great, I've learned a lot already from it and hope to keep learning
from you. <Good to hear.> I am saving money up to start a
saltwater tank, and am definitely interested in doing things correctly
the first time. <Good> When I started keeping
freshwater tanks a few years ago I was steered in every wrong direction
possible, a mistake I don't want to make this time, especially
since most of the stores here seem to be in the same "money over
customer" base one store even told me I could keep 2 Oscars in a
10 gallon tank forever!) <Well, I wouldn't go there
for advice ;)> I guess I should start with my plans. I
only have the space for a small tank, a 29 gallon. I am
going to use aragonite sand and have a bed of about 2". <Less
than 1 or more than 3 is best.> I am unsure about how
much rock I am going to use, I am going to get a lot of porous
'dead' rock from my LFS and seed it with some beautiful
aquacultured live rock that I have found. Probably about 5
lbs of the LR. For my equipment, I know I will use pc
lighting, have a skimmer and have a fuge. Plus
the obvious things like heaters. I plan on getting all of
the non-living things first, setting up the tank then adding the
liverock to cycle it. I figure the rock can cycle it and
while that is happening I can watch to make sure I don't have any
bad hitchhikers in the tank. After it has been set up for a
couple of months (after cycle basically) then I will add the livestock
to it. <I would probably let it run a little longer to let the LR
really establish itself and seed the base rock.> I don't want a
lot of fish, just a few. I know I will have an ocellaris
clown, and a clown goby still haven't' decided on a colour yet,
most likely a citrinus though) I was planning on a rainfordi
goby, but have read at your site that they need a more established
tank. <Yep> Though would a 29 gallon tank be enough for one after
it has been set up for a while? <Probably not.> Or
should I forget about that plan? <I would> I want about 10
snails, an even mix of astrea, cerith and Nassarius.
<Good> I am also planning on getting a scarlet hermit
crab or two, I love to watch hermits and have been told that those are
the most reef safe, as far as crabs go. <Yep> I don't have
any plans to keep shrimp, but if I did decide to I would get peppermint
cleaners. <They are nice, enjoyed them when I had them it the
past.> For the corals, I will have a random assortment of
zoanthid and palythoas. A Ricordea and some
xenia. Perhaps someday a Capnella OR devil's hand for
some variety. Does this sound like too much livestock, or
can you find any big incompatibility problems with my list? <Not
really, just don't overload it with corals, just a few and leave
them room to grow.> For my filtration, I know the skimmer and rock
are the bulk of it, but what skimmer should I get? I was
going to get a remora, but the LFS I am going through is hesitant to
get any in because he has never used them himself. <I absolutely
love mine.> He stocks the CoraLife super skimmers.
<Check some of the message boards for opinions on this
model.> I have heard that either works "better"
than the other. Also I have heard, dumb question here, that
xenias like their water a bit Underskimmed. <High water quality is
important for these like all other corals.> Would I be
overskimming for them with either skimmer, or would I be just
fine? <Will be fine.> The fuge I am going to use will
be an AquaClear filter made into one. It'll have some
sand, perhaps a bit of rock, and some macro. Probably either
sea lettuce or turtle grass. Is either one better than the
other? <Should be fine, although not as fast growing as some other
macroalgae.> It'll be lit by a small pc
light. I'm hoping to grow out pods in
it. <Will> The model of filter I was
looking at has 500 gph flow rate. Should I go for the next
size down model(300 gph), or should I keep this one in mind? <Bigger
the better.> Also, with either size would I need to have additional
powerheads for more flow, or should I be fine with that much?
<Almost impossible to have too much flow, I would add a powerhead or
two.> My LFS has said to add another one or two
powerheads to that mix, yet that seems like the flow would be nonstop
everywhere in the tank. <Looking for 10X tank volume
turnover.> Also, how much light should I get? <Depends.> The
LFS has said that the single light pc strip(65 watts) should be more
than enough for the tank. <Maybe> Should I stick with that plan
or should I get the double strip light? I am never going to
have any form of anemone, clam or SPS in the tank. And
really most LPSs don't interest me. Huge IF I ever tried
one in that tank it would be a candy cane. I've read
that they don't need massive amounts of lighting, and I could keep
it near the top of the tank for more than it would be getting
otherwise. So yeah, 65, or 130 watts? <Really depends on
what specific corals you get.> What salt should I
use? Hm, don't really know how to elaborate more on that
one, just which brands seem to be better, in your
experience? Or is there even a really big difference?
<Most are pretty comparable. Most popular is Instant
Ocean, most commonly available, reasonably priced. Shedd
Aquariums brand of choice if that helps.> I think that is about all
my head has rattling around in it at the moment, so thank you in
advance for your time. <Sure> Dana <Chris>

New Marine
Setup...Confirmation of Parameters, gear check 10/2/06
I have been reading you web site for months. It's been a
great resource. So, I would like to run my new
setup by you guys (or gals as the case may be) and just make
sure that I seem alright before I transfer my fish from my
old 55 gallon. The new tank will be a FOWLR set up and I
doubt that corals will ever be placed in the system (we will
see). So here it goes. First, the tank is a 125
gallon glass tank (purchased second hand). We started
the cycling about 5 weeks ago. It has about 1-1.25 of
mixed 50/50 Gray Coast (new) and aragonite (from current 55
gallon). Then there is ~60 lbs. of dead live rock
with ~30 lbs. of live rock on top of that. There will
also be about 15 lbs. of live rock placed in the tank coming from
the old 55 gallon. As for equipment I have
two ~275 GPM power heads now and a third one to
go in when I break down the old tank. There is a Magnum 350
(for water polishing purposes), a twin panel back-filter (from
Wal-Mart) and a Fluval 204 (for carbon and polishing
purposes) that will come from the old
tank. I have been juggling my Remora Pro w/
pre-filter between the two tanks during the cycling process
and of course it will be placed in the new
tank. The heaters are a new Jager 250 watt unit
and a 200 watt unit from the old tank. The lighting is still
a bit up in the air. At this time our budget is a
bit limited. I have a line on a used 72 power compact
fixture with four 96watt bulbs and moon lights for under
$200. Supposedly it is less than a year
old. It sounds a little too good to be true but we
will see. If this one does work out then we
will be set as far as I can see (understanding that the
bulbs will need to be replaced soon
of course). If this does not work then I will go
one of two routes. The first system I was
contemplating was two 36 standard fluorescent dual fixtures (for a
total of four Aqua-Ray 9350K bulbs). The other option
is two single 96watt bulb 36 power compact
fixtures. I also have the original 72 standard
light fixture with two new 24 standard florescent bulbs that
I was going to use with either setup for a bit of the
deep sea look. Any thoughts? My
initial budget for lighting is the
$200 range. As of today my water tests
with the following: Ph-8.1; Ammonia-0;
Nitrite-0; Nitrate-trace, but less than 10ppm; SG~1.022; Temp~78deg
F. It has held steady at this for about a week
now. My LFS seems to think all is good to go
water wise. Our current 55 gallon tank has 7 Monos (3-Sebae;
4-Argentus). These guys will be added last, if
possible. Our current wish list for the new tank
is as follows: 1- Lawnmower Blenny; 1-Coral Beauty; 1-Koran
Angel; 1-Naso (Lipstick) Tang, <Will need more room>
and maybe 2-3 Mexican Rainbow
Wrasse. Any huge issues with this mix?
<The Koran will get too large for here as well>
Also, the more I read the more I think that I should be
removing the bio-rings from the
Fluval. Yes...no... maybe? <I'd leave them>
How about eliminating the
back-filter. Again, yes...no.. maybe? Any other equipment
issues that you can see? <There are better
modes of filtration, but these will/can work> So there it
is. Any general recommendations would be
great. My wife is very eager to get this tank
stocked. As I see it, we have plenty of
time. I certainly do not want to rush things. I
did that on my first tank and do not want to repeat that
situation again. Thank you in advance for you
information. Eric <Mmm... I'd keep reading re your
possibilities: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm as you seem not
totally sure... though, as stated, what you currently have can work.
Bob Fenner>

S.O.S.! Mmm, nope... just need to
read 9/21/06 Hi guys (and gals). I have a serious
problem. First off I want to give you major props on your site and
say thank you to MacL for trying to identify my worms! I have
another picture of a worm, it may be clearer. OK,
here's my story. I'm a newbie to the marine world. <And
to here... your images are orders of magnitude too large...> I
have a 30 gal tank (small I know but it was a b-day gift! was
planning on eventually upgrading), a bio wheel filter, about 30
pounds of live rock, live sand, and a CoraLife (grr) protein
skimmer. I started off putting the sand in and then
making up the saltwater. I added the cured rocks in piece by piece.
Everything seemed to be going well until I added the last and
largest chunk of rock--the one that also contained the worms. After
I added this rock, I had an outrageous outbreak of brown algae
<Just coincidental... Diatom proliferation is a very regular
part of such small system run-ins during cycling> that covered
my sand, it would return within days of siphoning. I was
told that this was pretty normal, <Ah, yes> especially with
new tanks and that it should subside...that or it was an indication
of something else being wrong with the tank. I bought my
skimmer but I could never get the dang thing to foam. The guy at my
local fish store (LFS?) said that it would produce foam after i had
fish in there that created waste for it to "foam out."
Made sense to me at the time. My parameters before I
added my fish were ammonia 0, nitrite 0, pH 8.2, nitrates ~20 (yes
high but I was hoping a functioning skimmer and a good water change
would bring them down), salinity at about 1.022 and temp around
76F. I decided to try to add fish, so the LFS sold me 3
damsels ( I thought this was a war waiting to happen but he
encouraged it)- a 1" Dascyllus aruanus, a 1" Chrysiptera
cyanea, and a 1.5" Chrysiptera parasema... <Impressive!>
He did not mention dipping or quarantining, he said a standard 20
minute acclimation would do. I added the fish on Sunday,
the cyanea hid immediately and only came out to snip at the
parasema. The 3 striped one seemed fine, marched around
the tank like he owned it, <Does> attacked the omega zone
flakes I dropped in. I was planning on returning
"big blue" to prevent further stresses and territorial
disputes. However, Monday things got really
bad. The Chrysiptera parasema had died. I examined it
and it displayed some white spots on its scales, they honestly
looked like fighting/stress wounds so I didn't worry about
it. But, I found the Chrysiptera cyanea half way
dead. It too had white spots on it, but it also had what
looked like a blister on his underside near the anus (infection or
fungus?). <Mostly environmental> It also had a solid string
of white poop attached to it. <Oops> I did not
have time to take a picture, I was late for work and wanted to get
the fish out of the tank right away. The other damsel is
MIA, my guess is that it crawled into a rock and died or something
:( I am trying to find the root of my problem and I have a
suspicion of a bad bacteria or fungus in the tank because the fish
appeared to be healthy before I added them, <Seemed...> my
nitrates were high ( never lowered despite water changes), and my
algae was out of control. I examined my suspect rock(s)
and found what looked like white cob web spots--small ones on the
one that contains the worms and a larger piece (pictured) on
another. I still have live worms, about 10 that I can
count-- <Good> small and large a few small feather dusters
and some other plant-like critter. My sand has also
began to clump and look "rocky" (also pictured). There
are also white specks, looks like sand grains, being tossed around
by the filter--could this be a long-term problem? <Not
likely> Could the skimmer have caused anything? <Nah>
I apologize for the lengthy letter but I am very sad
and concerned and I could not really find a definite answer on the
WWM site, I could only make projections. You guys are
the experts so please tell me what you think and where I should go
from here--a 100% water change is probably an order. Do I need to
remove the rocks or is there a way to treat them if they are the
problem? <Nope> Do I need to replace my sand?
<Negative> etc...-- Thank you so much for all of your time,
care, and hard work. --Appreciative, but saddened and slightly
discouraged, novice-- <Mmm, well... I/we would not have cycled
the system with Damsels... and yes, your system is likely
Crypt-infested at this point... You need to "just wait",
be patient at this time. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasittksfaqs.htm and the
linked files above... And remember... tens of Kbytes... for
graphics attachment... We only have ten megs total... BobF>

Marine Set-Up... Shift Key Not Working -
07/30/06 I have a 90 gal 48x18x24, crushed coral, Emperor 400,
Magnum 350, the regular 40 watt lights that came with the tank and
15lbs of live rock, 1 damsel and 4 other starting fish. I started my
tank 1 week ago using filter media and some substrate from a currently
running f/o tank I was thinking of a Remora skimmer. <A good
choice.> What else do I need for a successful setup, your answers
appreciated. <With the Remora, sounds OK, but do read here, and
related links on the subject for additional info. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm. Do
use capitalization where necessary in future queries. James (Salty
Dog)> Vince

First Marine Tank, 36G 7/24/06 I am just starting
a saltwater tank that is a 36 gallon used bowfront tank with a stand.
<Good luck and welcome to the salty side of the hobby.> This will
be my first saltwater so I really want this to work. Here is what I
have so far and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Coralife
light: 2 bulbs, both 65 watts, one blue one white, also attached are
night lights to simulate moon light. Some model of an emperor filter -
it came with the tank so I don't know the model: it has one bio
wheel and holds Rite Size Cartridge E if that helps with identifying
it. <Needs to be cleaned often, probably weekly.> Hot Magnum 250
(I think) - also came with the tank: the man at the shop suggested to
use the micron cartridge first and switch to the main filter type that
can hold carbon and such later on, I don't know when he will tell
me to switch and why I should use this one first but
that's just what he told me to do. <I would run the
carbon, can be quite helpful. Also this filter needs to be
cleaned weekly as well.> 2 Maxi Jet 900 powerheads: one facing the
front of the tank in the top left hand corner, one forcing water and
debris along the back, bottom of the tank pushing it to the front of
the tank, (located in the back, bottom, left hand corner of the tank).
<A couple more would probably be helpful, the more flow the
better. Looking for at least 10X tank volume turn over.>
I do not have a heater yet, there is nothing in the tank yet, soon to
be live rock though!! <Get one before adding the live rock,
stability is key.> I am so excited! <Tis quite the
adventure.> The water stays at a constant 80 degrees F no
matter where I put the light, put the legs on the light, leave the top
closed or open. I cannot get it to go down unless I have no light, keep
the cover off, and leave it alone for about 5 hours! Is 80 degrees OK
for fish, live rock, and some hardy corals/invertebrates like
zoanthids? <Quite acceptable.> Only 2 of the cooling fans in the
hood work right now. (I am going to wait a while to add in
the invertebrates/corals because I want
the tank to work with just fish first). <Would run them all from the
get go, easier on the equipment and can find problems before the
sensitive livestock is added.> I am going to have the blue light
turn on 30 minutes before the white ones turn on in the morning, and
shut off 30 minutes after the white ones turn off at night. Does that
seem alright? <Sure> Both lights will be on for 13 hours of the
day. <A little long but ok.> The night lights will be on after
the blue ones turn off at night. <Ok> My salt level will be
pretty stable at 1.023 I will not include a protein skimmer yet because
I will not be keeping any invertebrates/corals right away. <Very
important for the fish as well. I consider it the most
important piece of equipment for a tank and would not run a tank
without a QUALITY skimmer, regardless of what I am keeping.> All I
will be having in my tank for a while is live rock and fish. Can some
species of zoanthids survive without a protein skimmer if I do 5 or 10
gallon water changes every month later on, and can the survive with the
lighting that I have? ,Lighting yes, but weekly or bi-weekly water
changes are best, 10-15% each time.> If so, what species of
zoanthids would be a good choice? <Many, peruse WetWeb for
specifics.> If not, what is a good hang on back protein
skimmer that is not too expensive that I can purchase when I am ready
to add a few hardy invertebrates? <For skimmers quality
costs. Check out the excellent article by Steven Pro for
more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm
.> If later on I keep some invertebrates/corals, will I need to
supplement calcium? <Probably.> If so, is there a brand that
sells a high quality calcium supplement? <Many, most name brands are
fine.> Finally, could you list a few groups of fish that I could put
in this tank that would mix well with each other, and list some
invertebrates/corals that are hardy and easier to keep than most other
invertebrates/corals that the fish will not eat or demolish? <Too
many to list, looking for 3-5 small (>4 inches) fish, and few
colonies of appropriate corals which can be found on
WetWeb.> And the ones that you suggest, do they
"need" a protein skimmer if I do monthly 5 or 10 gallon water
changes? <Every tank needs a skimmer in my opinion, especially with
such infrequent water changes. With no skimmer bi-weekly 5G
changes would be best.> Just so I can get a picture of
and know what my options are on what different types of community fish
I can mix with each other based on size and quantity and what hardy
invertebrates/corals I can keep with them. <Too many to list, detail
on WetWeb.> Sorry for the length of this email! <No Problem.>
You guys are really helpful for doing this! <Chris>

Upgrading questions... too rude to follow
directions 7/22/06 I, currently, have a 55 gallon
"reef" tank - some corals, a few fish, live rock, live sand,
etc. <Okay...> I am upgrading, this weekend, to a 90 gallon
"reef-ready" tank. I have a homemade refugium, but need to
upgrade it, too. I was looking at doing a CPR Aquafuge Pro under my
tank, instead of a sump. Anyone use these? <All sorts of folks...
you can find our review of such on WWM> Any Pros/Cons on them? The
tank will have to run plugged up with no sump/fuge until I decide.
<Take a look/read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
See the third, fourth block of links down... on Refugiums?...> Also,
since I have never plumbed a drilled tank before, are there any good
books/articles to show how to do it correctly? I assume, also,
there'd be instructions with the tank (being delivered) and/or
refugium (once I order it). <Uhh... keep scrolling> What worries
should I have about power outages and flooding? Ron Daley <Learn
to/use the search tool, indices on WWM... we have a few tens of
thousands of visitors a day... If you had read through the guidelines
of writing us, you would not have. Bob Fenner>
Re: Upgrading questions... too rude to follow directions
7/24/06 Thank you for the help and directions.
<Welcome> As far as the "too rude to follow directions"
comment, that was not my intent. <Ahh, thank you for this
clarification> The wealth of information on your site is a little
overwhelming and, at times, hard to maneuver through. <Mmm, there is
a "bunch to know"... or maybe better put, that one can
know... and knowing more increases ones chances for success, and
enjoyment...> I was looking for some quick, concise information in
doing something I had never done before and was a little nervous about
doing. <I see> Thank you, once again, for the help you provided.
Ron Daley <Thank you, Bob Fenner>

New Set Up/Shared
Systems - 07/10/06 Hi there, <<Hello>> I currently have
a reef aquarium but am about to venture on to bigger and better.
<<Cool!>> I would like to setup a 150 gal. reef aquarium
plumbed to a 240 gal. which sets 10 ft. up and 20 ft. away from the
150. <<Mmm, is a possibility if both will be the same
"type" of system (e.g.- reef, FOWLR, FO)...but be aware these
systems will share more than just water. Any problems/pests
that manifest in one will surely make it to the other>> Since
there is a distinct possibility that I will sell my home in 5-7 years,
I would like to have the ability to run these independently as well,
since I would take the 240 with me. <<I see>> To give a
better picture, the 150 is going to be flush mounted in a wall with the
back housed in my mechanics room in the basement, which has a water
tank and sump drain; and the 240 will be in a room above and over from
this. <<I trust you have done the necessary homework to ensure
the upper floor will support this large tank?>> I know I have a
lot of research and work to do to accomplish this
<<Indeed>> but my initial question would be; if money were
not an issue (not that I'm rich), how would you quintessentially
set up an individual tank, or do you have a link which already provides
this information? <<Start reading here ( http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm) and among the
links at the top of the page. I'm happy to help you out,
but rather than me speaking blindly here, research the linked info and
work out some details/ideas of what you want to do. Then
come back to me to discuss if you wish>> Expounding on this, I
would like to know how many and how big of drain holes to the sump you
would have? <<A minimum of two 1.5" drains...more/bigger
when possible>> Where would you locate these overflow(s)?
<<When possible, my preference is to install bulkheads in the
back or side panels of the tank, rather than the bottom>> Where
should the return(s) be located? <<Generally, on opposing
ends>> How can a wave maker or alternating power heads be
incorporated to introduce a pleasing current? <<Many
options...what do you "want" to do?>> How should the
sump be chambered, etc.? <<Not always a necessity, but it is
often a good idea to provide a dedicated "chamber" for the
skimmer to allow easier control of water height re>> My other
question would be what to look out for when joining two systems, having
multiple pumps and such. <<I think your best option here,
especially considering the physical separation of the two displays,
would be to plumb these systems to only "share" a large
sump/skimmer...and other wise providing dedicated pumps, et al>>
Also, do you know of any design software for plumbing and such, I would
like to make schematics. <<Not specifically, though a CAD program
would likely do what you want>> Thank you for your time. Regards,
Shawn <<Do read through the set-up/plumbing material on the site
and come back to me with more specific information on what you wish to
achieve and I will be happy to assist further>> P.S. The above
question(s) is very loaded and I do not feel right about getting so
much knowledge for free. <<Mmm, haven't imparted much thus
far <grin> >> I am more than willing and would be very much
like to pay (through Paypal or something), some consulting fees as I go
on with this project. <<Thank you very much
Shawn. Payment is not necessary, we are all happy to help
where we can. But if you are so inclined (we do incur
expenses for maintaining the site), we have a button on the homepage
just above the Google bar for taking donations>> BTW, I wrote
this purposefully below the main body in case you did not want to post
it. <<No worries mate...we post everything. Eric
Russell>>

- Salt water aquarium set up 6/27/06 - Hi Bob, <JasonC
here today.> I am looking for someone to set up a salt water
aquarium in my home. I live in Macon Ga, Do
you know of anyone in this area? <I personally do not, however you
should make this inquiry at any/all of the fish stores in your area.
Likewise, keep your eyes on our daily FAQs as someone may post an
answer after they see this question.> Thanks, Cathy <Cheers, J --
>

Connecting Tanks 6/26/06 I love the
website and the books! <Thank you for the compliment - we do
try!> I own a 55 gallon with 80 lbs of live sand and 55 lbs of live
rock. All parameters are looking good. No trace of ammonia.
<Nitrite, Nitrate? What I like to refer to as the ANN levels
(Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate).> The tank includes a wet/dry trickle
filter with bio balls and the Coralife Super Skimmer. 1 - Coral Beauty
Angelfish 3 - Green Chromis 2 - Ocellaris Clownfish 3 - Peppermint
Shrimp 36 - Blue Hermit Crabs 4 - Turbo Snails 1 - Hairy Mushroom
I've never seen this done at home, but I was wondering if I could
connect the 55 reef tank to a second 55 gallon. <Of course you
can!> I have just bought the second tank and am not sure what I want
to do with it. <I suggest you decide this before considering whether
to connect - some combinations may be less beneficial than others. For
example, a predatory fish tank sharing water with a delicate reef
environment may diminish water quality in the reef aquarium.> I was
thinking of splitting up my fish or keeping one as a 55 gallon reef and
the second 55 to become something like a refugium or fish only tank.
<Using one as a refugium or similar system - for example a frag
tank, would be a fantastic idea. The main benefit of this would be to
double the volume of water in your system and hence increase chemical
stability. Though you will need to make sure that any equipment that
you are using is sufficient to meet the demands of this increased
volume.> Is this a terrible idea? <Not at all - in fact you will
probably find it to be very beneficial depending on how you employ the
second tank.> I need some advice on the pro's and con's.
I'm also not sure how to connect them. The LFS suggested an
overflow box. <I agree. You will need two connections, as per a
standard sump/refugium layout, of which one gravity feed the water from
tank 1 to tank 2, whilst the second connection will mechanically pump
water back to tank 1, ensuring water circulation between the two
systems. Best of luck!> Thanks for the help! You guys
are the greatest. See you at Houston. - Anne

Set-Up...Plumbing, Pump
Size 6/22/06 Hi every one (newbie to reefing from UK
here) I've been searching through WWM but cant seem to
find an answer... I'm setting up a 5ftx24x18 reef tank and I would
like to know what size pipes, how many pipes, sump tank, and
return pump I would need for it to be a winner. I would be
great full <grateful> of any help/advice you can give. <In
your 110 gallon tank, if no powerheads are to be used, I would
recommend a pump of at least 1200 gph, and minimum drain pipe of 1.5
inches in diameter, a 15 gallon sump, and four 1/2" return lines
to the tank at equal spacing. You can make a manifold out of
PVC tees that can screw into the pump outlet. Read here and
related articles/FAQ's above title line also. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm In
future queries, please do a spelling and grammar check. It
saves us much time if we do not have to do this for
you. Thank you, James (Salty Dog)> Thank you
for your time <You're welcome.>

Re: First Salt
Water tank... for sure 6/17/06 see additional below (
in color and not in caps) and thanks! <<My further responses in
double carats. RMF>> Hi, I am in hopes of guidance because after
someone recommended your website I was amazed of all the answers... too
many. <Not possible... they are indexed, there is a competent search
tool...> This was a complement but still so much information but
applies to a wide variety so it becomes general <<I see... thank
you. Do you have ideas on how this information might be better
presented, organized?>> My problem is that I decided I finally
wanted to start my first salt water tank and the Local Pet Shop
recommended for ease to start with a Reef and add fish as I go along.
SO that is what I am trying to do. I truly love the look and
am sure I will love the hobby. Part of the problem is that I
went into this not realizing that this would be such a money pit. I
shopped and shopped and now have the following set up.
* 145 gal Acrylic Cube type Aquarium 36"
wide x 30" deep by 30" high. <Very tall... hard to light,
get your arms (hope they're long) into...> :)
o The tank is plumbed underneath the back
overflow inside the tank <?> In other words I do not have to hang
anything on the tank. The fittings are below the tank under
the overflow <<Ahh, I see>> * 30 gal
sump (no filtration or internal walls, simply a tank
* ASM G2 Skimmer * 150lbs
of Live Rock * 100lbs of Live Sand
* Gen-X PCX 40 Pump
* Tunze Stream 6060 Pump
* 250w Pendant Metal Halide
* SCWD current switching device
* Kent Marine Aquadoser 5: Float switch and
auto-refill * Rio 2500 powerhead pump
* UV Sterilizer (not sure of make or model) Any
comments about the about equipment and how it will serve me?
<<Good to medium choices in product lines... but relatively
complete, should work... with some careful set-up, maintenance...
I'd make a daily, weekly, monthly, more periodic checklist
here>> The main problem is that I got 100 different
directions. Since I am a total rookie, I wanted first to
master the easy way to do the reef and then play with it as the
previous owner did. <No shortcuts here... you need to learn what
you're doing...> You make it seem that you have to know what you
are doing in order to do it, there is no help along the way?
<<Mmm, unfortunately not many... After a few decades of effort in
trying to "make known what needs to be made known" in person
and in writing, it is my steadfast opinion that the "field"
of marine aquarium keeping is/has become so complex that a
semi-thorough grounding in some aspects of science (biology, chemistry,
physics...), engineering... even psychology (!) are called for, ahead
of actual purchase, install of these systems. Too easy otherwise to
experience (deadly) failure... and/but on the plus-side, the
more-you-know commensurately the greater will be your enjoyment,
fulfillment with the experience>> I had a guy come out to set up
my tank for me (Recommended by the Local Pet Shop) The guys told me
that I had no filtration going on so he recommended that I put
bio-balls in my over-flow. He hooked up my UV sterilizer and I put in
about 200 bio-balls in the over-flow (didn't make a dent). The guys
that sold me the tae told me that I shouldn't use a UV Sterilizer
or the bio-balls. The guy that sold me the Skimmer told me
to use the UV sterilizer. This was my biggest problem as the previous
owner sez not to use the sterilizer and the bio-balls and the guy that
set up my tank sez I need them. I am hoping for some guidance here.
<<Is posted... we have a few tens of thousands of visitors/users
daily... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm and the linked
files above in these series till you understand "enough" to
make up your own mind>> I am totally doomed! <I wouldn't
go that/this far> I picked up a book (Natural Reef Aquariums,
Tullock) <Know John well> and it just provides a lot of
suggestions but not for my particular case. Can you help? If
I don't do the bio-balls what filtration am I using? <Please
read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm See the blue
file names? These are links... read the ones on
filtration> thanks for the help with that one If I
don't use the UV Sterilizer am I more likely to get sick fish?
<Whether or not... see WWM re UVs...> I thought the
UV sterilizer was an easy answer to a possible complicated problem.
<Is a useful tool, not a cure-all by any means> So are you saying
to create a reef with coral, a UV sterilizer is okay? <<Is
"okay", but not necessary... is a useful adjunct, tool to
otherwise good/complete filtration and maintenance practices>>
Needing help. BTW, how do I become a member? <We
don't do/have memberships... by participating, reading, writing...
you are> Michael Grose <Take all this a bit at a time Michael...
not hard, but involved... can, will become engrossing, but needs your
giving/taking. Bob Fenner> <<Are you sure you want to
"do" marine aquarium keeping Mike? Many busy folks have
others set-up, take care of these systems as more "kinetic
art" than involved aquarists... I strongly encourage you to
consider this... Perhaps you'd do better/best by reading over
another "complete" work on the subject. I am the author of
The Conscientious Marine Aquarist (in the same series as John Tullock),
but there are many other worthy written works on the subject. Bob
Fenner>>

- Marine Aquariums... pondering
possibilities 6/15/06 - WWM Crew - New to WWM and loving your
site (wish I would have found it sooner)! I've scoured for many
hours trying to find info related to my questions but I have been
unable to nail down the specifics of what I'm in need of answering,
so here goes..... Quick history: Live in Michigan. Currently have a 55
gallon marine tank (8 yrs old) with 5 fish (clown, pink spotted goby,
cardinal, royal Gramma, Foxface) and live rock. Closest LFS is 35
minutes away. I've saved $3000 to put towards my next marine
adventure. I'm at a point where I've saved enough money to
expand on what I have and I'm toying with two different
possibilities for the next step. Possibility #1 - spend the entire
amount on one awesome large tank. <Believe it or not, $3000
won't get you very far in the "awesome" department in
marine tanks. That budget could get a pretty decent 75-90 gallon tank
started (as in up and running), but not quite all the way to the finish
line (fully stocked with nothing left to purchase).> Possibility #2
- spend the money on many smaller tanks to keep a rather large
assortment of fish and with the help of my son (who is in the process
of converting his own freshwater tank to marine) start our own
mini-store in our finished basement. For me this would be a
benefit... I could continue to observe many varieties of fish and also
possibly make enough money to break even. <While this would be fun
from a hobbyist angle, it will likely never be a profitable enterprise
and will most likely barely pay the electric bill. Not including the
fact that unless you pick lots of small fish, then lots of small tanks
is less than ideal for anything of size for anything beyond temporary
holding.> I'm leaning towards #2 and here's some
questions/comments- What size tank would you recommend if I was to have
approximately 10 tanks? <55-60? Depends more on how much space you
have and the fish you want to keep. Larger is always better.>
(I've looked into the MaRS Retailer System vs. buying 10-20 gallon
tanks and outfitting them each with a bio-wheel, heater,
hood. The tanks come out cheaper but would that be the best
way to go? <For retail display systems, this is a better way to go,
but the design of these systems is based on a wholesale/retail holding
system and not long term care.> Will just a bio-wheel be adequate to
maintain the tanks? (on my current tank I have a canister filter,
protein skimmer, powerhead) <A protein skimmer always helps.>
Recommendations/contacts for livestock, food, aquariums in the Michigan
area? <If you're in the Ann Arbor area, look up Tropicorium. If
you're in the East Lansing/Lansing area, look up Preuss'
Pets.> Is this insane? <Not insane, but perhaps not completely
thought out. Do consider carefully what it will cost you on a
reoccurring basis to maintain a large holding system - will this really
make you money or just drain it out of your wallet? If you want to make
money, then you need to approach this like a business which means you
need a business plan, marketing research, etc. - is there anyone around
to make money with? This is just a start, but going through these
motions should influence your decision.> Thank You for your time
Brian <Cheers, J -- >

New 90 Gallon Setup
6/6/06 Dear WWM Crew, <Scott>
I am getting ready to expand an existing 40 gal (no sump)
LR setup and have been pouring over your website for weeks now for your
expert guidance (thank you!). Current non-fish "residents"
are a diadema, two cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, some star polyps
and zoanthids (LR stowaways) and a turbo snail. All doing very well.
Fish include a purple firefish, flametail blenny and a magnificent
golden angel that is currently in separate quarantine. <Centropyge
aurantius? This angel species needs many times this many gallons of
space> The new tank will be primarily for expanded fish
display (sixline wrasse, sharknose goby, and possibly a purple tang
and/or juvenile emperor angelfish), <... not enough room for either
of these last two> mixed with some other compatible invertebrates.
My thought is to move the entire system over to the 90 gal, than add
fresh (quarantined) LR in ~10-15 lb batches over time. <Still not
enough room...> I believe I have a
"plan" for the new arrangement but wonder if you would kindly
comment and/or offer suggestions... <See WWM re Systems,
Compatibility subfaqs files for the organisms
listed> Tank will be 90 gallon Oceanic
with two overflow boxes (say 500 to 1000 gph each). I'll use a few
powerheads for internal flow but mostly rely on the return flow for
circulation. Sump will be Ecosystem 3612
- hopefully to (1) provide copepods and other food, (2) serve as an
algae filter and (3) provide touted benefits of "miracle mud"
such as enhanced color. Question (if you please) - since Caulerpa is
illegal in California, can you kindly suggest alternative macroalgae
which fits the above objectives? <Is posted on WWM... see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm
and the file linked above in series> (I have Mr. Fenner's Reef
Invertebrates book but I don't have experience growing macroalgae).
<Easy, fun to do> The Ecosystem
literature states a protein skimmer is not necessary but I will use one
based on other feedback (including your site!). I am thinking about a
slightly smaller skimmer (Euro Reef CS 80) due to the presence of the
Ecosystem. Would you do this or do you think the CS 100 would be worth
using? <Yes> Summers get pretty hot in So. Cal so I
am planning to use a chiller (better than running home AC
continuously). Can/would you comment on experience with Aqualogic vs.
Coralife vs. JBJ Artica? <Mmm, I would look to querying on BB's
re a wider input of actual experience here> Also, would you
recommend piping the chiller "in-line' on the return pump or
use a separate loop off the back end of the sump? <If you have
enough flow, pressure, I would tie this chiller in with the existing
plumbing> I am debating the pros/cons
of a submersible pump versus an external pump (Iwaki). Right now I am
leaning to the external pump if there is enough space. Are there
benefits to one over the other or does it come down to personal
preference? <Externals are superior in most circumstances... more
efficient, less waste-heat... less potential for
trouble> For the lighting I am leaning
to power compacts, say 3-4 rows so the lighting can be
switched on/off to mimic daily cycle of light intensity. Can you
suggest what level of intensity would best benefit the above described
system? <Again, posted...> Again,
any thoughts/critique would be greatly appreciated. Scott
in (hot) So Cal <Bob Fenner, also here. When, where in doubt
Scott... keep reading>
Re: tank setup 4/18/06 Thank you Jodie for your
info. Like I said, I'm new to this and could use all the
advice I can get. <Great to hear! I love it when people
WANT to research and get advice. Good start.> I will look
into the Remora. Also a couple more
questions: When I set the tank up, I used regular freshwater
gravel. Will that be sufficient or should I change that out
to crushed coral? <You'll certainly want to change that
out. Crushed coral is fine, Southdown sand is great if you
want a DSB, or aragonite (my personal choice).> I used regular tap
water 4 gallons at a time with salt until dissolved. Should I have used
distilled water? <Tap water can cause unwanted algae
blooms. I'd look into getting an RO/DI unit.> How
many pounds of live rock would you suggest? I was thinking
of 1 lb per gallon so in a 55 gallon tank I was going to use 55 lbs of
Fiji premium rock. <That's a good
start. It depends on what look you're going
for. If 55 lbs fills it up how you like it, it should be
fine. Unless you're depending on your LR as your
filtration source, then you'll want closer to 2 lbs per gallon.>
Could you recommend a reputable online store to purchase the live rock
and future fish. <I'm not sure if I'm supposed to recommend
e-tailers on the WWM site. <<Bob?>> As for
purchasing your fish online, I'd recommend trying your LFS
first. That way you can see what you're buying, watch it
eat, make sure it's not sick/injured. If they don't
have what you want, they'll likely order it for
you. That is, after all, the business they're in.>
P.S. Should I put all the rock in the tank at the same time
or limit so many lbs per week. <If you make sure it's well
cured, you should have no issues putting it in the tank all at the same
time. If it's not, then the die-off would foul up your
water pretty quickly. I would, of course, recommend curing
it and adding to the tank BEFORE you consider adding any
fish. The LR alone may be enough to jump-start your
cycle.> P.P.S. If i am going over board with questions just tell me
to shut up!! lol <Shut up
Chris! No, don't shut up. Keep asking
questions! That way you'll get it right the first
time. You'll save yourself, your fishes, and, well ME, a
lot of grief. :-) Cheerio! Jodie>
THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH FOR YOUR
ADVISE
Chris
K.
Re: tank setup 4/21/06 Hi, it's Chris
again. <Hi, it's Jodie again, still adding your capitals and
punctuation.> I took your advice and removed all the freshwater
gravel and replaced it with 40 lbs of aragonite crushed coral and 40
lbs of Arag-Alive sand. <Good to hear. I'd also
recommend seeing if some local reefers would donate a bit of their
sand. I've found that it contains much more diversity
than Arag-Alive.> I also drained all the water cleaned the tank and
refilled. OK now I think I am ready for the
rock. I keep getting different opinions from
LFS. Could you please advise me which would be better --
cured or uncured. <A matter of opinion/circumstance.> I am
thinking the uncured, so the tank could cycle while the rock is curing
but I am unsure. <That will work, yes (though you don't want to
add uncured rock to a stocked tank). You have to run a
skimmer full-time to avoid fouling up your tank, and keep a careful eye
on ammonia/nitrates. If they get too high, you're
basically killing all the good stuff that makes live rock
"live".> And I was going to start out with 50 lbs of Fiji.
I not trying to set up a reef tank, just a simple setup with some rock,
a few fish, and 1 or 2 anemones. <Again, please research
anemones very thoroughly. They require basically perfect
water quality, very intense lighting, and a mature
tank. Please-please-please don't impulse buy an
anemone. It will die...unless it's an Aiptasia.>
Thanks again in advance for all your info!!!! <Glad to
help. Jodie>
Chris
K.

Set-up Q's, new hobbyist 4/12/06 Hi
there Bob and crew, <Rick> I am new to
saltwater ( few weeks ago, gave up my freshwater discus) and very
excited already. I got a 90 gallon tank with overflow box built-in,
36" sump with refugium, AquaC skimmer ev-120 with mag-drive500 ,
PhosBan reactor, quiet one 4000hh return pump, Artica 1/5 chiller, UV
sterilizer, with these equipments ready to rock and roll. (planning to
get the Korallin calcium reactor with co2 tank) Please let me know how
to and how long to cycle my tank, when is it the appropriate time to
add LR+LS, and when to add corals, I have tried to find it on the WWM
search engine, but not much luck. can you please give me the link to
these question. thank you very
much. Rick <Are all posted on WWM... along with much
more needed related material. My best advice is to use the indices,
starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Enjoy the process, and
take good notes. Bob Fenner>

Re: ** new hobbyist thanks Bob , I got your book couple days
ago... currently only chapter 2, but, learning a lot already, thanks
Rick <Ahh! Know you will enjoy, gain by the experience.
Enjoy the process. Bob Fenner>

Set up, Skimming, and UV
03-21-06 Hi <Hi!> Again Thanks for your WWW & you guys
rock! So after years with a 55 gallon fish only tank & just bought
& set up a 180. <Yay! Bigger is better.> The set
ups is 2 days old. Seeded with some sand from old tank & older
filter foam. I also bought the Aqua C 180. & 2 1/2 of Aragamite
Select. Questions: So When should I install the Skimmer?
<Most here agree that skimming while cycling is a good idea, so
start now.> & did I buy the wrong substrate? ( .5 - 1.0 mm )
<It seems the mindset IS a little bit bigger, the smallest being
somewhere between 1.5mm and 2mm.> as I like at least 2". I
grabbed & installed what I thought was a bit larger in diameter. Is
this or will this be a problem? <I don't think so, but you might
have to watch with powerheads and whatnot moving it around too easily
later on.> & When should I turn on the UV?
Thanks! <Is this going to stay a Fish Only
tank? I don't personally believe in using UV at all,
however there are others that have used with success. You may want to
read here for more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm >
Sincerely, Jonny <Good luck and enjoy! Jen S.>

New
Set Up Advice - 02/20/2006 I have been reading your site and The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist for the past 2 months and found all the
help you dispense immensely helpful. <Bob's glad to offer them
and we're happy to help!> I am looking to set up a fish and
invertebrate tank with a few hardy corals. The main setup I have is as
follows 140gal tank with overflow box, megaflow 4 sump, Reef Devil ETSS
Skimmer and in sump return pump. Since it's better to do it right
at the beginning I thought I would get a few basic questions down
before actually setting up the tank. <OK.> Should I use the sump
as is with the bio balls or try and turn it into a refugium? <This
is covered quite extensively on WWM and really depends on the path you
decide to follow. I'd go with a refugium though.> If the answer
is to convert it, can the sump be converted easily? <As nothing is
running yet, yes.> How deep a sand bed should I have? I get
conflicting answers from everything I've read. <Again covered
extensively here. Generic answer; 3" or more, 1/2" or
less.> How much LR should I use for such a set up? <All your
preference here also. Most common to use 1-2 lbs. per gallon.>
Thanks for all the help <Sure thing. - Josh>

New Setup of a 125 - 02/20/06 Hi Crew, Amazing site and
can't say enough good things about it! I am thinking
about converting my 125 freshwater tank, and after reading as much as I
could on your site and a few others, feel that I am
ready. On to the questions! The tank doesn't
have an overflow, and is currently set up with an Eheim 2028, and 2
Emperor 400's for filtration. For the marine tank, I am
thinking about using 150-175lbs of live rock, 4 Aquaclear 802 power
heads, a protein skimmer (not sure of the brand just yet), and the
canister for mechanical/chemical filtration. I won't
have a sump and was wondering if this filtration / water movement would
be sufficient for this large of a tank. <Can be made to work...
depending on what livestock...> I am fairly certain that
I want to get a snowflake eel, and possibly a lion fish, and maybe 1 or
2 other tankmates that are suitable to be housed with a
lionfish. (will research this further after the tank has
been going for a month with the live rock) My main concern
is that I have heard a few different opinions from the LFS in the area
regarding needing a sump, but feel that the turnover from the
powerheads (rated at 400 each - so that would be 1600) and the canister
(300 gph) and the additional protein skimmer (not sure yet) would be at
least turning the water over 16X an hour. <Sumps are
useful, not necessary technology> Also I just wanted to make sure
that the above equipment would be sufficient to run this take, and that
nothing further down the road would be needed. Thank you in
advance, and keep up the excellent site!
<Thank you... Bob Fenner>

Setup Questions For New Aquarium -
02/20/06 Dear WWM crew, (Good evening Eric) <<Good morning
Andrew>> Once again, thank you for your reply. <<Quite
welcome>> But, after doing more research I have some more
questions for you. <<Ok>> Here goes... I have
completed the fish part of the inhabitants list. It is as
follows; Maroon Clown qty. 1 Yellow Tang qty. 1
Flame Angel qty. 1 Auriga Butterfly qty. 1 Blue
Green Reef Chromis qty. 5 <<Ah, very nice...and pretty
much "fills you up!">> But the plumbing is what
I've really been working on. It's fairly simple and
I feel it may be missing something so again (grin) you have free rein.
<<Hee!>> But, first I'd like to clear up some of my own
confusion. <<Always good to clean...er...clear up after yourself
<grin>.>> In my earlier message you suggested having two
1.5 inch bulkheads and having one plumbed directly with a 1000 gph
pump. Can a 1.5 inch bulkhead handle this much flow?
<<Yes, when plumbed as a closed-loop.>> You had suggested
two 1.5 inch bulkheads for 1000 gph (total) so I was confused.
<<Ah, I see...I shall try to explain without being to
verbose. With the closed-loop you are
"pushing/pulling" the water through the pipe with the
pump. This allows you to "maximize" the
volume/capacity of the pipe. With an overflow system you are
reliant upon the water "falling" through the pipe assisted
only by gravity and the weight of the water (volume) behind
it. Usually, a gravity overflow will never get close to
handling (practically speaking) the volume of water the pipe diameter
is rated for under "powered" conditions and attempting to do
so usually results in excess noise and other problems from air
entrainment. Thus, I recommend folks size their
pipe/bulkheads for overflow system to handle "double" (or
more!) the expected capacity.>> It doesn't make that much
difference in my plan though. I can either get a smaller
pump or a larger bulkhead. <<I see>> Otherwise, I was
thinking this: 90 gallon aquarium drilled with two 1.5 inch
bulkheads. As mentioned above, have one bulkhead plumbed
directly to a 700-1000 gph pump (would greatly appreciate any pump
suggestions) <<For submersible pumps...Eheim or Mag-Drive would
be my choice, for external...Iwaki, Gorman-Rupp, or the afore mentioned
Eheim.>> that then pumps the water back into the tank via return
manifold. The second bulkhead would go down into a
"Y". One side would empty into the sump and the
second would be capped off for expansion. Second sump, refugium,
etc.) The sump would be a simple 25 gallon tub to hold the
skimmer, heaters, probes. (Could also hold more live rock or other
items) <<Indeed...such as chemical media (Poly-Filter,
carbon).>> This tub would then be plumbed into a 300-500 gph pump
(Again, any suggestions on pump welcome) that pumps the water into the
above mentioned return manifold. <<Mmm, I would keep this
separate from the closed-loop manifold. Do have a read here
re, the indices in blue will help too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm
>> This could also be a prime spot to put a fluidized bed filter
as you suggested. That's my (proposed) plumbing set-up.
<<Sounds pretty good, do look in to separating the two
returns.>> Next, I have more filtration questions. I
researched the following skimmers and had the following
questions. Please suggest one based on it's
compatibility with my system and value. AquaC EV
120 (Worth the price?) <<Yes>> AquaC
Urchin Pro (Too small?) <<Marginal>> I
have heard great things about these skimmers from several
sites/vendors. Are they as efficient as they say they are?
<<I believe them to be, yes.>> EuroReef
CS080 (Too small?) <<Again, marginal.>>
EuroReef CS100 (Is it worth it?) <<Yes, a better
choice.>> I know the truth to the saying "You get what you
pay for" (I've owned a SeaClone) but are these
skimmers that much better than the others? <<I know what you
mean...I have a ER CS12-3...I have never regretted the decision to buy
this skimmer for a moment. EuroReef skimmers are my current
fav.>> ASM G-series I read several reviews about these
skimmers and found that the owners were generally pleased with them as
long as you got the model recommended for twice the size of your
system. <<Agreed...folks I know with these skimmers have
expressed pleased results.>> My other filtration question is
about the fluidized bed filter. The only model I've seen
is the Pentair Aquatics FB 300, FB 600. Are these considered
good? If not could you suggest a different model?
<<These should perform fine. The 'QuickSand'
filters sold by Aquatic Eco-Systems also look promising.>>
Finally, would a refugium be of any value to this system? <<Oh
yes! (nitrate reduction/export, breeding ground
for/introduction of beneficial critters, etc.)>> If so, which
type of organisms would I stock it with? <<Please do a search on
our site re 'refugium' for more info/selections, but my
preference is a reverse-daylight vegetable refugium with DSB.>> I
know I've thrown many questions at you and greatly appreciate your
answers. (My future fish thank you for your knowledgeable
reply.) <<Is my pleasure to assist. Thank you for
writing so well/expressing clearly.>> WWM in general is the
greatest source of aquatic information on the net. I catch
myself spending hours reading articles that have nothing to do with my
predicament. <<Ah, but all will help/be of use, hopefully to
prevent you from experiencing the same
"predicament"...knowledge is power my friend, do keep
reading.>> Thank you for your time, Andrew <<Regards,
EricR>>

Mudskippers ... tidepool system planning 2/14/06 Hi
crew, Great site. Bit of a weird question, Just found my LFS selling
mudskippers and have a vision of a tank set up but unsure how to get it
and wondered if you could help. <Will try> I would like to have a
tidal tank, I have a 4 foot Tank which I would like to divide in two
halves, one Side with skipper/skippers in and the other with Fiddler
crabs in, I would like to set it up so I could have high tide in one
side and low tide in the other side then every 4 hours or so the tide
changes So the high tide water flows into the low tide side Increasing
the water level to high tide, Is this possible? <Yes> If so what
would I need? <A mechanism... a pump, some means of
"turning" the water hither and yon> How would I set it up?
<A few possibilities... I'd go semi-high-tech., and look for
float switches, a controller (these are commercially available) to pump
the water slowly from one side, then over to the other... Look to
Octopus, Neptune... as controller brands...> And could it be done on
a budget? <If you're handy...> If I can't set my vision
up I will not get them but I have longed to have skippers for a long
time, please help Many thanks Stu <Do please keep good notes, take
some pix and write up your experiences to share... I will help you sell
to the print/pulp and e-zine markets. Bob Fenner>

New SW
System 2/6/06 Hello from Canada, <Howdy from
Southern Cal.> I have been perusing your site for about a month now
and have gotten a lot of excellent information. I am deciding on what
would be the best start for me. I have nothing so far as a system yet
but will be buying in the next couple of months. I am not overly
impressed by my local fish store and am wondering about purchasing
items over the net. <I see> Any recommendations on the best
places to buy (please keep in mind I am in Canada and shipping may be
high). I am looking for a 40 to 60 gal. tank to start and am sure I
will upgrade in the future after getting some experience. I will buy
the tank locally as there are some good choices but I am still having
problems with the equipment. Do you feel it is worthwhile to purchase a
"complete" system as it is sold in the store or putting
something together myself? <Mmm... IF you know exactly what you are
looking for... and this is otherwise not available locally for about
the same net landed cost/s... It MAYBE worthwhile to purchase some,
most distally> I need to have another look but I didn't see any
live sand in the store. I have family on the Atlantic coast and could
possibly get them to ship me some sand. Would this be a problem
considering how different the environments are? <Mmm, no... the
folks who ship LR, LS et al. live product are proficient at determining
weather, packing for same> Any suggestions or information you are
able to provide on any of these topics would be greatly appreciated! I
will continue reviewing the site for other information and thank you
for making such an amazing site available! Jon Goulden <Glad to see
you applying yourself ahead of monetary investment... Keep good notes,
collect opinions, facts and you'll do fine. Feel free to check in
with us re specifics as your plan comes together. Bob Fenner>

New
125 Gallon Setup - 02/05/06 Dear WWM Crew, <<Hello
Andrew>> I am seeking some help with a setup. Please
do not hold back, if you have differing views or ideas about something
please share. <<Usually do <grin>.>> I am on the
verge of purchasing a 125 gallon All-Glass aquarium. (Very
excited about this!) <<I'll bet!>> It is intended to be
a marine fish only system with live rock. <<Cool!>> I am
getting it from a local dealer and have obtained the
stats. The dimensions are 72x18x22 (inches). I
have the option of buying it pre-drilled or having a glass company
drill it. I have concerns about both options.
<<Ok>> If I have it pre-drilled I am afraid it may not have
large enough bulkheads. Pre-drilled it comes with two
1" holes for output into the sump and two 3/4" holes for
returns. <<"Holes" or "bulkheads"?...either
way too small.>> I was thinking about using both holes as output
and then returning it over the back with a manifold system. <<A
possibility>> (I want about a 1300 GPH turnover rate in the
aquarium.) I can either do that or have the back panel
drilled by a glass shop. My only concern with this is that
they cannot guarantee that the aquarium will come out in one
piece. Which option (if either) would you recommend?
<<Can you not request the manufacturer to pre-drill for larger
bulkheads (1 1/2" - 2")? Or maybe increase the
number of throughputs? If not, I would be inclined to have
the tank drilled (or drill it myself) after the fact.>> My other
question is about the support. I can either purchase a stand
or build one. I have built stands for aquariums before but
never for one this large. Is it even safe to attempt?
<<Sure it is (I built the stand for my 375g tank)...principles
are the same, you just need to use materials beefy enough to hold the
weight. A Google search would likely turn up some useful
info.>> I really don't want to buy this size aquarium only to
come home to a broken stand and shattered aquarium. <<This is
understandable. If you doubt your abilities, a manufactured
stand may be best.>> I have found Do-It-Yourself plans but am
weary. <<???>> I would just like to know if it is a safe
practice or not. <<Like anything else...is safe when done
properly.>> My last question is about the
filtration. I obviously want to incorporate a sump into the
setup and wanted to know more about the right kind of
filtration. Being a FOWLR setup I was thinking of building a
sump that had an abundant amount of mechanical filtration.
<<Mmm...only if you plan to service regularly (weekly).>> I
was thinking several layers of mesh. Would this be the
proper type of setup to include the bio-balls or something similar?
<<I would forego both of these and employ one or two
fluidized-bed filters for additional bio-filtration and a canister
filter for chemical/carbon filtration. As for removing
solids, try putting filter socks on the outlets from the tank (also
cleaned/swapped out weekly...or more often as needed.>> The last
item is the protein skimmer. What type/model would you
recommend for this size setup? <<AquaC, Euro-Reef, ASM...follow
the manufacturer's recommendation on sizing.>> Thank you for
your time, Andrew <<Regards, EricR>> P.S. I have
read Mr. Fenner's book (The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
) and found his section on the capture of wild fishes (both
legal and illegal) very interesting. You don't see a lot
about it and I learned much from the section. Please pass on
my compliments to Mr. Fenner, I found the book to be quite good and
more importantly, informing. <<I very much agree...EricR>>
<Thank you for your comments. RMF>

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner