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not for a Ridgid generator, but I have made some thing similar for different generator,

but I would do a price check on cable plugs and boxes and receptacles before making my own if saving money is the issue,

I am sure one can do it a little cheaper, but the plugs are not cheap, and the cable is not low cost any more, but you still have the work and time involved,

Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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The standard 220V extension cord is 30.00 from Amazon. It would then be a matter of how much the connectors are for the funky 4 pin molex-type thing, and whatever wire they use (I have a feeling thats just a signal type wire for the power gauge on the panel, along with the ignition key, so it doesnt need to be really heavy gauge).

Just a thought is all. Money would probably be better invested in a transfer panel and install.

Comment

When did you buy it? The extension is supposed to come with it.
Unless you bought a floor sample, a recon, or bought at a clearance price for some reason (or if you bought it used), Home Depot owes you a cord.

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I apologize, I meant it as an actual extension to what came with the generator.

I most definitely have the included cord, but was thinking of an extension just in case I wanted to change the placement of the generator during/because of the storm.

DIY-ing one might allow you to extend the generator farther from the panel by using a heavier gauge wire for the 220V side, but at some point the return on investment becomes too low, and you are better off just putting in an xfer panel and power input receptacle (even if the input receptacle is 20' from the panel)

Comment

FYI - Ridgid used a plain old "4 flat" trailer wiring connector for the connection to the remote control panel on the generator.....so all one needs is to get any 20A extension cord and a couple "4 flat" trailer wiring ends and wire between them, and you'll have an extension as long as you want (if you go higher gauge I imagine you can go longer than the 75' that Ridgid says is maximum)

I also think you can just extend the 4 prong portion and run it along side the 30A connection to retain the remote start capability....either by having the panel inside or just wiring up an ignition switch near where your xfer panel is.