Author
Topic: Manual Dough Sheeter (Read 56623 times)

The adjustment for the thickness (thinness) of the dough is done, but not installed. I will cover that nut with something so that it is easy to turn and adjust (and looks better). There will be one on the other side as well. Sprockets might be in today. Need the hand crank and hinge and some #40 chain.

jet, if you chain drive your rollers, aren't they going to both be turning cw/ccw thus defeating the purpose of a sheeter??? don't you want gear to gear?

No. If I chain drive them, they will not necessarily be both turning the same direction.

During my research in the last 6 mos. I found this drawing buried deep in the internets. I cant find any of the parts shown at Home Depot, Lowe's or Wally Mart. So, I'm doing it another way. Remember, I said cheap, easy to build at home ......

I have the chain drive figured out for dough sheeter #1. I want to make DS #2 be a gear drive type. Can someone figure out how they keep the gears meshed together when they adjust the opening of the rollers ? I can't figure it out. Thanks.

I have the chain drive figured out for dough sheeter #1. I want to make DS #2 be a gear drive type. Can someone figure out how they keep the gears meshed together when they adjust the opening of the rollers ? I can't figure it out. Thanks.

ill take a guess and say some type of idler gear thats on a lever with a spring ?

I can't make it work in my brain. It looks like it still has one roller going cw and the other ccw. If I'm wrong (i hope so), will you use MS Paint or something and put rotation arrows on the sprockets. Thanks for helping.

I have the chain drive figured out for dough sheeter #1. I want to make DS #2 be a gear drive type. Can someone figure out how they keep the gears meshed together when they adjust the opening of the rollers ? I can't figure it out. Thanks.

Hi Jet_Deck,The drawing you have posted above refers to the basic sheeters made by Caplain (as this brand is usual in France, I used and serviced one of them during some years). Each roller is driven by one gear, and these 2 gears are meshed togheter via a third one (parts #18 in the diagramn, made in nylon). On this sheeter the meshing is preserved thanks to the depth and the special shape of the teeth of these spur gears, which are able to remain in touch even if the rollers are fully opened (~35mm). This solution is simple, but I remember that this sheeter was noisy when adjusted on the maximum opening.

Tomorrow I will try to post you a photo of a manual sheeter which is driven by a chain + an idler . In my humble opinion, the chain is more reliable than the previous design but the bests sheeters I have seen (by far !) are made by the Rondo-Doge company : their driving system is incredibly well-engineered, with duplex-chains and rods which keep the gap between the shafts constant, and so a very smooth transmission.

I know nothing about building a manual dough sheeter, but have been following this thread. I donít know if these pictures will help you or not, but these are old candy machines that were used to make stick candy. They were hand cranked and a piece of warm candy was then placed though them. Just thought I would post the pictures in case you could get an idea from them, on how a manual dough sheeter might work. These hand cranked candy machines could be adjusted up or down for the thickness of candy and they just have two gears. I had planned on some point in time in trying these out to see if they would work out for dough and something like rolling out dough for breadsticks, but haven't had time to clean them up and try them.

Wow Norma, those are perfect examples of implementations that are reasonably easy to repurpose as a dough sheeters.

Good find.

Dave

As I said in my last post, I am the last person that knows anything about building a manual dough sheeter, but had thought about the way I had used these old candy machines to make candy in the past. If anyone thinks any of this can work, I can take closer pictures or more detailed ones.

Just thought this thread was interesting about building a manual dough sheeter. My father used to build and design many things. He could have built anything. He made many tools and made us many toys, when I was younger. He even built us a kind of racing car we drove, that had some kind of push pedals, that would make the race car go. We had loads of fun with that. He could weld, fabricate anything out of nothing and also built the home I had grown up in from the ground up with my mothers help.

Thanks Norma for being kind enough to put those pictures up. The candy crimpers do have an adjustment for the thickness of the candy. But probably much less of an adjustment than we would all want for a dough sheeter ( to go from ball thickness down to cracker thin). I have no experience with that type of sprocket, but I will see how deep of a sprocket I can get in that style. Thanks again.

Thanks Norma for being kind enough to put those pictures up. The candy crimpers do have an adjustment for the thickness of the candy. But probably much less of an adjustment than we would all want for a dough sheeter ( to go from ball thickness down to cracker thin). I have no experience with that type of sprocket, but I will see how deep of a sprocket I can get in that style. Thanks again.

Jet_deck,

If you need any other pictures of this to help you out, let me know. I also am anxious to see how you make out with your manual dough sheeter.

Hi,Here are the photos of my hand-driven dough sheeter (small commercial model, now retired). The crank directly drives the lower roller, and the chain drives the upper roller via the tension-gear located above : this one is mounted on a mobile shaft kept in place via a set screw and a spring (like on a bicycle derailleur).

Thank you very much. That is exactly what I needed to see. That is the same arrangement I was going to use for my chain drive model, with the exception of the placement and design on the idler (chain tensioner). It looks like the up and down control of the top roller is with that round disk that is kinda egg shaped.(eccentric) Is the unit sprung open or sprung closed?