Thanks to all who provided input…I settled on a preventer
system taking all the suggestions received into account and exploring options
on the Internet. Currently on a cruise and reporting that it works and since so many folks responded to me here is what it looks like:

1. I put a web strap made by a sail maker is around the aft
end of the boom between the outhaul line and the clew – I realize most use the
boom bail and that would work as well. (see photo which also shows the strop leading from the strap)

2. I went with two strops (actually one 5 mm Dyneema luggage tagged in
the middle to the web strap). The ends have spliced eyes 2 feet long.

3. The preventer line (7/16” White Sta-Set braid) with a
snap shackle at the end can be stowed on the toe rail and easily reached and
attached to the splice strop. (photo) The line then runs, through an Antel eye (which
is spliced into a piece of 5 mm Dyneema secured on the forward bow cleat). (Photo)

4. The preventer line runs from the strop forward to the
antel eye at the bow and back along the toe rail to a clutch cleat installed in
the toe rail by the helm. (NO holes drilled in the toe rail)The tail of the line also goes through a
block by the Spin block and can to led to the main winch if needed. (photo)

The helmsman can ease or trim in the Main in or out and adjust the preventer from the
same position.

This system is mirrored on the other side of the boat. I’m currently on a cruise and I decided that
BOTH sides of the preventer can be left in place, during a gybe, simply
un-cleat the ‘working’ clutch, gybe, and take up on the lazy clutch.A bungee cord keeps it all tight to the boom.

Sicily? That's awesome! I love hearing about J 42s sailing in far away places! Mine is in Bermuda currently, which has seen many more J 42s compared to Sicily.

I just spoke to Chuck Poindexter at Sound Rigging about your preventer. He told me that he sells it as a kit for $375. I'm getting one! The kit even includes a drill bit for the pad-eyes. I don't think that the kit includes the "fore-guy" line that would lead forward to the bow, then aft, but that's easy enough to rig.

Hard to photograph this set-up, as sail has to be raised to see the sides of the boom. We're currently in Trapani, Sicily enjoying blustery, rainy weather and waiting for a weather window to get across the Strait of Sicily to Tunisia for winter lay-over. I'll try and remember to get some shots of this good system, made up for us by Chuck Poindexter of Sound Rigging in Essex CT, when we get settled in Tunisia and start to put the boat to bed for the winter by early November.

Sorry for the delay, but getting settled for the winter around here is kind of a nail-biter given the unpredictable and difficult weather.

The set-up on Cayenne consists of two pad-eyes screwed to either side of the boom near the aft end. Permanently attached to these are two Dyneema braided lines with bungees spliced into the middle and ending in eye-splices splices that are hooked to the forward end of the boom, held in place by the elasticity of the bungees. When the preventer needs setting, a line is run on the leeward side from the cockpit to a snatch-block attached to a big center pad-eye just aft of the anchor locker hatch (this is also removable inner forestay anchor). The boom mounted Dyneema+bungee is unhooked from the foreward end of the boom and shackled to the line running from the snatchblock and controlled from the cockpit. This works well because the long preventer line running to foredeck and back to the end of the boom is fairly elastic so the energy of an accidental jibe can be absorbed without too much ill-effect. Our previous Dutchman boom brake was not particularly effective. The big main and long boom on the J42 makes a preventer particularly important. Have had the boom-end touch the water at 9 kts. running off. Pretty scary but not disastrous.

Curious, does anyone have a premaritally installed preventer? That is a system that works and can be easily set from side to side after a gybe? If so what are the options for setting it up?

I ran into the new owner of the 'old Amigo 3' at the boat show who has set one up, need more details on how.

I presently have a strop around the end of the boom, and tie a thick but stretchy line to it which is led to a snatch block attached to the bow cleat. The tail leads to a secondary winch on the cabin top.

Several rigging vendors say this is a dangerous set up should the boom tip hit a wave at speed it may put too much pressure on the boom, or vang and could potentially even taking down the mast. Just as many other people say it is the best way to go. Still others swear by a boom break BUT on the Creol Mor blog - a Wichard boom break is NOT the way to go.

What I'm looking to do when sailing short handed to keep the boom in place, preventing the main sheet from taking out the pedestal or a crew member should rocking on a wave, poor steering or a serious shift off shore cause an accidental. Key; I'd like to be able to gybe and reset the preventer on the other side with minimal difficulty. Appreciate any thoughts.

Neglected to mention an important factor in keeping anchor locker dry! Cutting a slotted grate from "Starboard" or similar plastic material to create a raised, fast draining floor set on small riser blocks will keep locker contents off the wet floor and encourage effective drainage.

RE: the Lofrans Project 1000 windlass install on our J42 hull #65, s/v Cayenne: I got the windlass on-line from Binnacle.com in Halifax, Nova Scotia. That was years ago, and they had some remaindered ones on sale at the time. The one I got had very long shaft for a thick deck installation, and I had the shaft length trimmed at a machine shop in Rhode Island. The deck aperture was close to the original Lewmar windlass aperture, but I had to add a 1/4" Starboard plate between the new windlass base and the old aperture to make it work. This elevated the new windlass slightly, helping to seal the joint between the deck and windlass base, and closing the irregularities between the original aperture and the new windlass base. I'll post a photo of the new windlass in the picture section of this site. The 1000 watt motor pulls our 25 K. Rocna out of mud bottoms single handedly, bringing up a full load of heavy goop. It's a fast and powerful windlass, which makes re-anchoring after unsuccessful sets go fast and easy. Also it drops the anchor under power very fast. The big Rocna is over-kill for the J42, ugly as sin on the bow, and doesn't clear the roller furling drum very well, but it sets fast on almost any bottem and is the next best thing to having a permanent mooring. In the last ten years of Caribbean, Bahamas, New England and Mediterranean cruising have never dragged once. Hope this helps!

The original Lewmar anchor windlass on our J46 corroded and seized after about 8 years due to moisture and salt water in the anchor locker. After the failure I realized I should have been paying more attention to the under-deck part of the windlass by cleaning and lubricating annually. It wasn't sufficiently sealed. I replaced it with a Lofrans Project 1000, a more powerful and faster windlass, better sealed with an internal solenoid control, eliminating the separate box control switch. I keep the under-deck part of the windlass coated with a light spray-on grease, and air the locker on sunny days. The locker drains get blocked with dirt from the anchor chain and need cleaning or the locker won't drain well. Storing absorbent things in the locker will hold moisture. Long distance cruising we always need spare fuel, and the anchor locker can hold from four to six 5 gallon plastic containers of fuel either empty or full, plus a spare anchor and rode. The plastic jugs don't hold moisture and help keep the locker dry.

--- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, "Richard" <magicsailor7@...> wrote:>> Thanks Bernie, will give them a ring tomorrow. > Sorry Waddy on the mix-up. This is an issue with the primary. My original windlass rotted out and that was replaced last year. > While I am thinking of it, anyone have a good suggestion on keeping the moisture/humidity down in the forward anchor locker? That's what killed the windlass. I try to keep it open on sunny days to dry but between the moisture held in the fender covers, dock lines, and anchor rode it stays pretty wet. I suppose keeping the fenders and dock lines in the seat locker would help but its inconvenient. > -Rick Egan> J46 Wings #4> > --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, Bernard Coyne <coyneb@> wrote:> >> > Try Florida Rigging & Hydralics> > http://www.rigginghydraulics.com/> > > > They offer the best Lewmar service and support.> > > > Bernie> > J/46 #10> > > > > > > > Bernie Coyne> > Sr. Technical Marketing Manager> > DevOps Collaborative Development Practice > > IBM Software Group, Rational> > Phone: 720-396-6297> > Email: coyneb@> > > > > > > > > > > > > > From: "Richard" <magicsailor7@>> > To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 08/27/2013 05:51 PM> > Subject: [j4x-owners-group] Problem with Lewmar electric winch - > > J46> > Sent by: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> > > > > > > > > > Looking for someone who has had a similar issue with an electric Lewmar > > winch that has failed. > > One of my primaries is an 65ST. It slowly failed to operate electrically > > and now has stopped. Works fine manually. The opposite winch works fine. > > The boatyard says the motor tests fine. After consulting with Lewmar in CT > > over the phone the consensus is a gear problem in the motor. However, > > Lewmar (CT) doesn't handle repairs to the gears on the motor. They > > directed us to England where unit is manufactured. > > Would seem there has to be a better or alternative solution than to > > communicate with England over a repair.> > Any suggestions?> > -Rick Egan Wings -J46 #4> >>