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+-' C ill - 0.. E - :J IT ill cook's tool kit than a whole new line of meat thermometerscalled continuous-read, or probe thermometers-began to flood cookware catalogs. We decided it was time to evaluate them. Probe thermometers consist N of a thin metal rod (a probe), that's connected by a wire to a digital display. The probe is inserted into the meat and stays there throughout cooking; the display unit sits outside the oven and sounds an alarm when the preset temperature is reached. Probe thermometers aren't perfect. One of the first strikes against them comes from the manufacturers themselves, who promote the "set it and forget it" approach-suggesting that once you set the target done ness temperature , you can walk away until the alarm sounds. In our experience, �robe thermometers: can they take the heat? BY MOLLY STEVENS o sooner did instant-read thermometers become standard issue in any serious there's no substitute for checking on roasting meats visually, tactilely, and-as they near doneness-frequently. But the real Achilles' heel of these instruments is that most of them aren't intended for roasting in an oven hotter than 392°F. We think this is a major limitation since many of our favorite methods for cooking meat involve high-heat roasting. After putting fourteen probe thermometers through a battery of tests, we found three models to recommend (all of which can be used above 400°F). And despite some quibbles, we've concluded that probe thermometers actually help make you a better cook by showing how and at what pace the internal temperature of roasting foods increases. The key is to use these thermometers as tools rather than to rely on them to make judgments for you. Polder Preprogrammed Cooking Thermometer Timer (361 ) $1 9.99 at Amazon.com This thermometer performed well in all of our tests for accuracy, response time, and readability, but & Hour-Minute-Second when not in use save battery life. The preset doneness settings for meat can be easily reset, and there's an "other" category that allows you to ignore them altogether. what we liked most is its rubberized cord DRAWBACKS: The and straight probe that can withstand high oven heat (up to rubbery buttons have a nice feel, but they sometimes stick. The 450°F) and even go in overall operation and the dishwasher. The rubbery cord is also less awkward to use and to store than the woven metal cord on most other probes. An on/off switch and an automatic shutoff programming can take getting used to. There's no way to disable the alert, so the thermometer will always sound when a target temperature is reached. Getting the best results from probe thermometers .:. Many probe thermom- eters come with preset target temperatures for meat. We caution against blindly following these because they're based on conservative USDA recommendations and are not in accordance with many people's taste. Instead, consult a reliable cookbook (or see Fine Cooking #58, Kitchen Basics) for a more realistic listing of meat doneness temperatures. probe in a few different spots to ensure that you haven't inserted it too near a bone or in a fatty spot. Either of these may throw off the reading. .:. When cooking large cuts .:. Always use a towel or of meat, set the temperature for 10°F lower than your actual target. When the alarm sounds, try the potholder when adjusting the probe. The metal gets extremely hot. Photos: Scott Phillips