A number of years ago (ten years?) I read an article by a prominent climber about how safe climbing may or may not be. It was an interesting analysis, comparing climbing to different sports, and considering various aspects of the issue. Unfortunately, I do not remember who the writer was, or where I saw the article. I want to say that the climber was from the Rocky Mountains states, but that's not much to go on! In any case, does this ring any bells for people? Do you know of any good articles or essays on the dangers and risks of climbing? You can reply to brunoschull@hotmail.com. Thanks.

A number of years ago (ten years?) I read an article by a prominent climber about how safe climbing may or may not be. It was an interesting analysis, comparing climbing to different sports, and considering various aspects of the issue. Unfortunately, I do not remember who the writer was, or where I saw the article. I want to say that the climber was from the Rocky Mountains states, but that's not much to go on! In any case, does this ring any bells for people? Do you know of any good articles or essays on the dangers and risks of climbing? You can reply to brunoschull@hotmail.com. Thanks.

Bruno

I can't help, but I hope somebody can; I'd like to read it. Every so often somebody on here trots out the old adage that, "the drive to the crag is the most dangerous part of the day." I invariably respond with, "I don't think it is, unless you're toproping perhaps." My logic, false though it may be, is that the likelihood of experiencing a car crash in your lifetime is higher than the liklihood of experiencing a climbing accident only because you spend so much more time driving than climbing.

I remember reading that you are more likely to be seriously injured or killed driving to the crag to climb than you are to be injured or killed while climbing. Like driving - you have a lot of control over your risk in climbing.

...Every so often somebody on here trots out the old adage that, "the drive to the crag is the most dangerous part of the day." I invariably respond with, "I don't think it is, unless you're toproping perhaps." My logic, false though it may be, is that the likelihood of experiencing a car crash in your lifetime is higher than the liklihood of experiencing a climbing accident only because you spend so much more time driving than climbing...

Lies, damn lies and statistics.

1) If you normalize the numbers per unit of time, driving is probably much safer than climbing. But, that doesn't necessarily contradict the statement that "the drive to the crag is the most dangerous part of the day."

2) The original statement I recall hearing on this topic was "you are more likely to die in a car accident on your way to the crag and back, than you are actually climbing." So, this was based only on the chances of a fatality.

3) The above estimate that I first heard was based on available data from the 1960s. Since then, both automobiles and climbing have become safer. So, I'm not sure what a modern analysis would show.

Going back to the question of an article... Sometime in the 80's (I think, maybe early 90's) there was an article in Climbing magazine that tried to assess whether rappelling was more dangerous than leading in Yosemite.

Yes climbing is damn dangerous. There's a thousand ways to get the chop and that's no joke! It takes men of iron backbone and chromium balls, women with titanium tendons and diamond hard muscles, to dare even attempt it. Lessor suitors fall by the wayside on a routine basis, their broken bodies lined up like chord wood at the entrances of climbing gymnasiums nationwide, as mute but effective testimony... the weak need not apply.

Interesting point: I was reading an article from a British source not too long ago that stated female climbers had a far better chance of dieing during child birth in their life than from climbing. By some significantly higher factor too. If I can find it again, I'll post the link. It also listed a number of other common activies and the risk of death compared to climbing. Climbing deaths were quite low on the list. The problem is, I believe the article was written in the 90s with older stat data. Since then, climbing has certainly become far more popular, however, the equipment has also gotten better....however, there also seems to be a higher number of knuckle-heads entering the sport as well.

I think the reasons you listed are why climbing can be safer than other activities one participates in; the safety of a climb is almost entirely in the climbers hands. 8 and 9 can be mitigated or avoided to an extent, and 7 can be mitigated/avoided through adequate preparation and planning.

When I ride my bike on a popular road for fast cars and and Lance Armtstrong want-to-be bicyclists, I routinely fear for my life when some asshole forces me into traffic or an idiot drivers skates past me on a turn going ridiculously over the speed limit.

While climbing, my partner's safety, as well as my own, is almost entirely in our hands. As long as we're doing something within our known limits and are adequately prepared, we're not taking any undue risks. Are we still in danger? Sure, accidents can and do happen. But with self rescue knowledge and adequately protecting a route I can feel confident I'll make it to the top and back safely (or at least with a fighting chance of survival if an accident should occur).

I think the reasons you listed are why climbing can be safer than other activities one participates in; the safety of a climb is almost entirely in the climbers hands. 8 and 9 can be mitigated or avoided to an extent, and 7 can be mitigated/avoided through adequate preparation and planning.

That was my point. The factors I listed were not what makes climbing dangerous. They were what makes it EiTHER more safe or more dangerous, depending on the person and depending on #10.

Interesting point: I was reading an article from a British source not too long ago that stated female climbers had a far better chance of dieing during child birth in their life than from climbing. By some significantly higher factor too. If I can find it again, I'll post the link. It also listed a number of other common activies and the risk of death compared to climbing. Climbing deaths were quite low on the list. The problem is, I believe the article was written in the 90s with older stat data. Since then, climbing has certainly become far more popular, however, the equipment has also gotten better....however, there also seems to be a higher number of knuckle-heads entering the sport as well.

Yes climbing is damn dangerous. There's a thousand ways to get the chop and that's no joke! It takes men of iron backbone and chromium balls, women with titanium tendons and diamond hard muscles, to dare even attempt it. Lessor suitors fall by the wayside on a routine basis, their broken bodies lined up like chord wood at the entrances of climbing gymnasiums nationwide, as mute but effective testimony... the weak need not apply.

Seriously.

DMT

damnit dingus, if you don't right a book soon I swear I'm gonna go through all your posts on all your forums and compile all this stuff up into the best how-to-be-a-kick-ass-rock-climber guide never published!!!!!!