Need more information -- how many wires in each connector and what shape is the connector. Also, some grand prix have connectors with no mate due to equipment changes in production year.Need more information -- how many wires in each connector and what shape is the connector. Also, some grand prix have connectors with no mate due to equipment changes in production year.

Many harnesses contain wires for options you may not have or were removed at one time...If everything is working, I suggest you just tape over plug ends so they do not short on anything and leave it alone.Many harnesses contain wires for options you may not have or were removed at one time...If everything is working, I suggest you just tape over plug ends so they do not short on anything and leave it alone.

How many pins does each connector have? Which engine does your car have (the '95 was offered with a 3.4L DOHC V6 and a 3.1L V6). Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? How long are the wires leading to the connectors? Are the loose connectors near the top of the engine or the bottom of the engine? Are they part of a wiring harness? If so, is that harness secured to the firewall or engine? Have you recently replaced anything on the engine? Is there anything you're aware of that doesn't work (like the speedometer, reverse lights, etc)? Can you get a picture of the connector(s) and post it here? Generally, when I discover a connector that is disconnected, I see how long the wire is and look at every place where the wire could reach. Usually, the wiring harnesses on modern cars are pretty thoroughly thought-out. Wires typically emerge from the main bundles fairly close to where they plug into the engine. If you just look at where the wires can reach, you'll likely see where they connect. Without some more specifics, these could be anything.How many pins does each connector have? Which engine does your car have (the '95 was offered with a 3.4L DOHC V6 and a 3.1L V6). Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? How long are the wires leading to the connectors? Are the loose connectors near the top of the engine or the bottom of the engine? Are they part of a wiring harness? If so, is that harness secured to the firewall or engine? Have you recently replaced anything on the engine? Is there anything you're aware of that doesn't work (like the speedometer, reverse lights, etc)? Can you get a picture of the connector(s) and post it here? Generally, when I discover a connector that is disconnected, I see how long the wire is and look at every place where the wire could reach. Usually, the wiring harnesses on modern cars are pretty thoroughly thought-out. Wires typically emerge from the main bundles fairly close to where they plug into the engine. If you just look at where the wires can reach, you'll likely see where they connect. Without some more specifics, these could be anything.

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Coming off the switch are a green and yellow wire and a black and white wire they run to the door connector then change to solid green and solid black. The window switch changes the current flow to go up or down. To test window motor remove inter door panel, remove moisture cover find motor plug and unhook use jumper wires to test change from pos. to neg. on both wires to check for proper motor function. if motor works both ways replace right side window switch.

Disconnect the Battery first thing! The wires are in connectors that plug in the back of the stereo , Male and female connectors. best you do a Google search for detailed instructions. You can also call a dealer and ask if they would print out the instructions for you. Some will do it cost free doesn't hurt to ask!

Could be your blower motor resister,here's a link to what it looks like,it's located by nblower motor,just a couple of screws hold it on.Autozone will refund part if it doesn't solve problem.Here's where the blower motor is..

Remove the kick trim and lower the glovebox door. Access the wiring connectors thru the glovebox hole with the door down, just unhook. Put the door back up and access the blower motor from under the glovebox, held in by screws.

Hello: Check under the passenger side of dash, remove cover toward front of cab you will see the bottom of the blower follow the wires to the blower motor module find the black connector with 6 wires in it. Unhook it see if the wires are burnt, if so you can get a connector to splice in. If the module is also burnt replace it also. on replacing the connector make sure you orientate it with the old connector so you get the wires in the correct order. Also check the connector at the blower motor. If no wires are burnt then leave the cover off and the next time it quits beat on it with a/c on and see if it starts blowing the replace the blower motor.

you have cross connected a battery feed with an ignition feed. Go back and check to ensure that all the engine harness connectors and any other connections made to the engine are correct.
If you have to, disconnect each connector in turn until you find one that shuts everything down, then recheck the wiring codes etc to enure you have plugged it into the correct connector. It is very easy to reconnect a harness connector into the wrong place so check wiring colour codes etc.

if they dont unclip or bold right at the tank back track them for about three feet if you can not find a wire plug to unhook buy some heat shrink wire connectors mark and cut wires when u install new crimp wires back together make sure wires are tight in connector use a lighter to shrink the connector and you will be alright while doing any of this make sure to unhook ur battery never mess with and electrical without unhooking if you were not already aware

The panel snaps on and off from the inside of the trunk up to the wheel well. There are 2 10mm bolts on the drive's side and 1 on the passenger side. You have to take the little cover off the driver side shock access to find the 2nd one. then pop the plastics off starting @ the trunk. There are 2 wires on the antenna unit; a single power wire on the motor, and the fat black antenna wire. If there is not a connector on the motor itself, you will need to get to the wires behind the radio and cut the "blank" wire WHILE THE RADIO is ON and the ANTENNA is in the UP POSITION! Failure to do this step will mean NO radio reception to speak of. DO NOT unplug ANY of the connectors on the back of the radio without first calling a dealer and getting the code to activate said stock radio. You will need this code if your battery goes dead as well.