A hoodie is a pretty simple thing. From chilly fall days to cool
summer nights, it’s easy to throw on over anything, and always cozy.
A hoodie is also endlessly customizable with embroidery. But
sometimes, like a simple hoodie, you just want a simple way to bring
it to life. Well, now there’s a super simple way that even gets
around that pesky zipper. With this
split skully applique design!

This split skully is very quick to stitch, but it requires a
couple of special tricks to get him to stitch right where we want
him. The key with this super simple look is to get your applique
design to line up right on the zipper, so when you zip it up, it all
becomes one design again! Here’s what you’ll need:

Zip-up hoodie (I know, who saw that coming?)

Sheer mesh cutaway stabilizer such as Sulky Soft 'n' Sheer or
Floriani No Show Mesh (this stuff's great for light designs on
clothes)

So, the name of the
game here is alignment. And believe it or not, those
printed dieline templates you’re going to use to cut out your fabric
are also going to be the key to getting this perfectly aligned.

So, start with one of your templates. You’ll want to trim the side
that’s going up against the zipper right to the edge of the dieline.
Then, place that edge right up along the edge of the zipper, like shown.
I know, it’s going to seem too close to the zipper, but there’s a 1/4
inch seam allowance built into the design. So it’s all cool. Only the
fabric will get the close to the edge, not the stitches.

We want to make sure we get our design placed just right. Now, on
a light colored hoodie, you could just use a fabric pen, but this
tape and pen method works on anything. Place pieces of tape under
the four edges of your template crosshairs, and mark them on the
tape like shown.

Next you’re going to
want to mark the very middle of your design. Place a piece of tape
roughly underneath the center crosshairs, and then poke through the
paper template with a pen to leave a mark on the tape. Once you have
your dot, I like to turn it into a little crosshairs so it’s easy to
tell its alignment.

With your hoodie zipped up (this is important! You can’t guess
alignment with it unzipped) place your other template on the other
side, so the skull pieces match up. Then mark it just the same as
you did with the first piece.

There! Now we have our
markings on our hoodie, ready to guide us for hooping.

Now those same templates can be used to cut out your applique
fabric. Lightly spray the back of the paper template and place it on
some felt or other non-fraying fabric, and carefully cut out your
two skully pieces. Keep those templates around, though! They’re
awfully handy.

So, place your
templates on your fabric, and see how they look. Neato! We’re ready to
start hooping.

Use those marked guides on the tape to carefully hoop up your
hoodie with your sheer mesh cutaway stabilizer underneath. The marks
will ensure the hoop is straight, and the center dot will tell you
just where to center your design. I also liked placing my template
right under the machine before sewing, so I could really see how it
was lining up under the needle.

Once you’re ready,
remove your template and your tape guides, and start sewing! The first
thing that stitches is your dieline. I stitched mine black on black, so
I highlighted it here in white so you can see it more easily. You’ll
notice it’s an outline of your skull will little spokes of stitches now
and then. These stitches are guides, telling you they should be
completely covered with your fabric when you place it down.

Spray the back of your felt piece with adhesive, and place it
carefully over those guidelines. Take care to notice those little
spoke stitches, and see that your fabric covers all of them. Once
you’re ready, your design will start stitching. It may seem scary at
first, with your fabric right up to that zipper edge, but the seam
will actually stitch 1/4 inch in from that edge, which is the
standard width of most zipper seams.

Your first side is
done! Now, I know we measured carefully, but it’s always good to check
your previous markings still line up with where this skull half
stitched. Place your template back down to make sure it’s still all
good. Once it’s ready (with any minor adjustments) repeat the process!

My second skully piece stitches. What’s nice is that after all
the fuss of marking and hooping, these things stitch out in a flash.