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I'm in the Navy, and I saved up about 15k from my first pre-com deployment, and I really wanted to buy an sti!

So I finally did after some short searching, I sat in the seat of a black 2007 WRX Sti, started it, and from that point on I called it MINE. I dropped 7k on it, and I only pay $200 a month for it and $80 a month for insurance (I'm in San Diego and I'm only 19!)

Ant, the GM at Cobb Tuning said that the best thing to do is just a whole engine rebuild.. But maybe they're trying to sell me since I'm just a 19 year old kid that bought his dream car and doesn't really know what I'm dealing with. No hate, please... I need help. I'm taking her to the dealership tomorrow and I'm gonna see what they can do for me. But the main questions are:

Will she survive the drive?

Has anybody had a similar problem?

What are the most plausible steps I should take, given my description?

I know it could be worse... But is it THAT bad? (I've seen posts of people having 125 psi cylinders, however mine are 20 below and now 7 psi apart)

I just need hope, good news, good advice, an "I know that feel bro" type of thing... Somebody help me please!

I will bet money they exaggerated some things a bit. Their recommendations as to something being "incorrect" is too vague to give a point of view. Get a specific description. Never settle for "its not right or wrong" have them go the extra mile to explain in detail and don't stop till they explained to you what is going on to the point you understand even if you're not mech inclined.

Bottom line its not that bad...

Edit: poor numbers are ok to drive with. Oil will get dirty sooner and obviously less power. More blow-by and higher load on the pcv system. Take it easy on the car till you figure out what you want to do.

Figure out what the hell they mean by ;pinched hose, sort it out and enjoy the drive. Dont be stupid and race it or drive hard and it will be fine.

PS PS : let this be a lesson, get your **** checked out before you buy it, not after.

Man, you bought somebody else's problems...I feel bad for you, but that inspection is what you should've done BEFORE you bought it. Did you buy it from a dealership? Because if you did, you could probably cite the lack of a catalytic convertor as reason to return the car/get a refund. If you bought it from a private seller...Well, you may be out of luck. I would trust Cobb, they typically know their ****, but I guess I can't speak for their shop.

Thanks a lot guys... I mean, when I test drove it, I pushed her and she didn't cackle over or anything. I really figured it was just an honest-to-God great condition STI! I apologize for me being naive... But I really just wanted the car... I acted mostly on impulse, more than anything. And here I thought I had my payments straight and whatnot..

First off, I don't drive her hard. I keep my rpms low, and I don't go around racing people at stoplights or anything like that. True, I lack experience in the mechanical field, but this is one huge learning process! I'm not entirely bummed, and I'm almost determined to keep her. Returning her might be a last resort, but I'll be back with another sti, no doubt! There are 95k miles on the car, but it drives as if you're test driving a brand new car! It was my first time behind the wheel of an actual car that matters since I drove a belt squealing 93 civic dx paint chipped sun dried tomato back in high school...

Thanks for the input, and I'm happy with the amount of feedback I got in such a short time. I'm all for Subarus over Mitsubishis anyday, for the record.

I'll update you all on what the dealership says tomorrow... And I'll bring Cobbs report and hopefully they can work something out with me...

Dream scenario is that they drop my payments or help with a leakdown/rebuild... Cobb says my blocks are still good, it's most likely internal. And I've read a couple more threads, and when it's the driver side cylinders, it's normal due to Subaru engines weight distribution, and could simply indicate a damaged head gasket.

The leaking cam seals are very minor though, however could that be a cause of lost compression?

Sorry to hear you bought into these problems. Take this as a learning experience. Never EVER buy a used car with unknown mods and conditions, and especially one that has the Engine light on. That was extremely foolish of you. Ok enough of that.

Personally I would return the car if possible. If not, you need to at least get tuned for the current mods. Then save up to replace the short block. Oh and ditch the turbo timer.

If you're going to buy a modified car, at least buy it from a stealership with some sort of warranty. I was lucky enough to find my WRX with all OEM STi upgrades, so the service manager was still able to warranty it out for 6 months / 6k miles.

As for your issues, there's no doubt you're going to need a rebuild. COBB Tuning knows what they are talking about. They normally won't try to take advantage of their customers, regardless of age (just given my experiences as well as most others), though that's really up to you to decide at this point. You're the one that's talking to these guys... but them trying to take advantage of you should be the least of your worries at this point.

The engine is still OK for a little while. You need to start planning for a rebuild, no doubt, but you can still drive the car - though I wouldn't beat on it too much. Next I would take all of the current modifications off and replace them with OEM STi parts or, at the very least, make sure that the current modifications are taken out, inspected, and then re-installed correctly.

You definitely bought someone else's problem(s), mengh. And unfortunately it's not really anyone's fault but your own for not getting it inspected properly prior to the sale. I'd suggest that you take care of what needs to be taken care of and then really take a step back and ask yourself if you can afford this type of car given your situation... Everyone wants a fast car when they're young (and good for you for being able to even buy one), but the associated costs with owning one often prove too much for people of your age or experience. You have monthly payments, insurance payments, maintenance costs, repair costs, and not to mention the mod bug will bite you eventually. Maybe just something to consider; as much as you want the STi right now, is it really going to be worth it in the long run?

Ya I kinda did the same thing when I got my 06 sti. It got the buyers high when I test drove it and to me it was just the coolest thing ever and nothing was wrong with it. But soon after the drive home that wasn't the case there was actually alot wrong but not nearly as bad as your situation. Mine ended up just being poor tuned and crappy parts so I had to drop few extra grand and all was good but I will def make sure to get any car inspected before buying. Sorry to hear bout that tho, I hope it all works out cuz my sti is just the greatest car ive ever owned

Turns out she's gonna make the drive, and I worked out a plan with the dealer. The CEL and Cruise light only turn on because the ECU doesn't recognize my BOV or my downpipe. However, she'll make the drive. I worked something out with the dealership as well, because they love sti's. That's what they specialize in... It's not just some Mom and Pop car dealership where there's a bunch of ****ty civics, a couple of acuras, a random ass ford explorer and then an sti. Their selection consists of bmw m3's, subaru sti's, mitsu evo's, nissan 300zx's, all cars that actually MATTER. That are actually doing something, that have a legacy. Himself and his brothers run the business, and he introduced me to his cousin who works at subaru himself. I can get an engine swap and forged parts for under 5k because he says he'll do it at his business license price. I'll have even more money after I go out to sea next month for aircraft flight operations and anti-piracy missions. It's gonna be sweet.

What most of you don't see is that I'm not trying to go like 293847239847239whp and ****, I'm going functionally basic.. 350whp, and then focus on cosmetic stuff, and just keep my car maintained after a protune. I want my car for personal projection, and self-validation for the most part... You can all understand. A man and his car. My smog is good for two years, and the downpipe adds like another 25hp (However, not tuned.) It's not like I'm running a fat turbo on my stock blocks, so I'm not risking any bearing spins.

Wish me luck, and follow for updates! Thanks for the support, criticism, and concern!

Turns out she's gonna make the drive, and I worked out a plan with the dealer. The CEL and Cruise light only turn on because the ECU doesn't recognize my BOV or my downpipe. However, she'll make the drive. I worked something out with the dealership as well, because they love sti's. That's what they specialize in... It's not just some Mom and Pop car dealership where there's a bunch of ****ty civics, a couple of acuras, a random ass ford explorer and then an sti. Their selection consists of bmw m3's, subaru sti's, mitsu evo's, nissan 300zx's, all cars that actually MATTER. That are actually doing something, that have a legacy. Himself and his brothers run the business, and he introduced me to his cousin who works at subaru himself. I can get an engine swap and forged parts for under 5k because he says he'll do it at his business license price. I'll have even more money after I go out to sea next month for aircraft flight operations and anti-piracy missions. It's gonna be sweet.

What most of you don't see is that I'm not trying to go like 293847239847239whp and ****, I'm going functionally basic.. 350whp, and then focus on cosmetic stuff, and just keep my car maintained after a protune. I want my car for personal projection, and self-validation for the most part... You can all understand. A man and his car. My smog is good for two years, and the downpipe adds like another 25hp (However, not tuned.) It's not like I'm running a fat turbo on my stock blocks, so I'm not risking any bearing spins.

Wish me luck, and follow for updates! Thanks for the support, criticism, and concern!

Humm well lol, im just gonna refer you to either read unabombers manifesto bout three times or get yourself a good tuner before you go modding that bad boy. Im guessing you don't have to much experience with modding and working in these cars. So I just urge you to walk on egg shells when modifying the car, there are alot more wrong ways to do things than there are right. Not trolling just trying to help.. Goodluck