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Sew: How To Draft A Half Circle Skirt For Any Bodice

September 23, 2014

I am a franken-patterner! I will follow the bodice directions but I almost always ‘create’ the skirt part of a dress. You may have noticed my vintagey style. I haven’t been keen to rock wiggle skirts/dresses after I took an Internet tongue lashing about my body shape when I posted this über fitted skirt. So floaty, 50’s inspired skirts it is!

Many of the circle skirts available in the shops are actually half circle. Half circle is still pretty floaty and very poofy with a petticoat. I think half circle is more flattering for a large stomach area and it’s less fabric intensive. Fabric for a full circle skirt is out of control for me because of my large waist measurement and desire to have skirts knee lengthy and not panty grazing! My size will fit, in one piece with only a centre back seam, on fabric only 1m wide! I have to fold it lengthwise but it can be done.

So how do draft a half circle skirt to fit an existing bodice pattern?

I am very, very easily confused by the math in sewing. This means I’ll minimize it where I can. So in this set of calculations I’m assuming you’ve sewn up the bodice, leaving it open at centre back, where the zipper will go. If you can measure the pattern pieces and calculate how long the resulting bodice will be after seam allowances and darts, more power to you!

So, the blue lines indicate where I have seam allowance. I want them to be part of my skirt too. That way the bodice and skirt will line up and I’ll have space for my zipper etc. You need to measure along the whole bottom bodice, as indicated by the red line.Measure the bottom of the bodice, including the seam allowances at centre back. Let’s call that measurement (A).

(A) divide by 6.28 = (B)

(B) X 2 = C is your final measurement for your waist, write it down!

Real life example: (A) for my bodice is 41″ so my calculation looks like this…..

41″ divide by 6.28 = 6.5″

6.5″ X 2 = 13″ this is my C

Measure from where the bottom edge of the bodice hits you, to where you want the skirt to hit (I). Then note the seam allowance specified for sewing the skirt to the bodice (J). Decide on your method of hemming and therefore how much you need for hem allowance (K).

(I)+(J)+(k)=(L) is your final length measurement, write it down!

Real life example: I want my skirt is 24″ long, have 1/2″ SA but I only want to add a 1/4″ hem allowance as I will be using bias tape to hem it.

24″ + 1/2″ + 1/4″ = 24 3/4″

Armed with a ruler, tape measure, marking device and big bit of paper/pattern trace/whatever you draft on – we pattern make!

Start by marking a straight line across the top (horizontally) and a straight line down the side (vertically). Make sure they meet at a perfect 45 degree angle! Mark your C measurement on each line, working out from the corner (yellow). From the end of your C line, measure down the lines the distance of your L measurement (red). At this point, you’ll only have the red and yellow lines marked. You’ll need to use your C measurement and a measuring tape to mark dashes, as per the next pic.

You’ll need to join these up to make a quarter circle shape. If you are like me and want to be sure you did the math correctly, the curved line should measure half of your A. This makes your waistline. Then add your C and L measurements together. Pivot the sum of them from the same corner to create your hem line. Just the same way you did the waistline. Cut your pattern out. Place one straight line on the fold and you’re done!

The same theories apply to skirts with a side zipper. Just measure the bottom of your front and back bodice pieces and add together, before you sew the side seams – that will be your (A). And cut two skirt pieces, rather than cutting on the fold.

I hope this helps you to franken-pattern to your hearts content! I used to be frightened of matching half circle skirts to bodices and now I’m free to make twirly but slimming skirts for any bodice I like! My most fave half circle skirt is part of the Tiramisu dress from Cake patterns, that’s what you see in the pic above. I will have a franken-pattern dress to show you that uses this technique but I’m still doing the hand sewing, so you’ll have to wait! If you are feeling full circle, I have a reversible, no hem version for you.

EDIT: I have finished sewing this Simplicity 4070 bodice with a self drafted half circle skirt. For more details on the dress and a tutorial on how to add the décolleté collar, check out this post xxx

15 Comments

[…] made a dress this week! Two tutorials came out of it, the first one ‘How to draft a half circle skirt for any bodice’ is already up. If I can get some good pics, the second tutorial will go up next week. I’m […]

[…] by folding lengthwise. If you want to draft a half circle skirt to fit an existing woven bodice, I just did a tutorial for that. I used my fave curved hem finish, bias binding. I love bias tape, I have whole post on the many […]

I am very, very late to the party here (I just found your blog today having started to sew recently), but I had to say something, even if it never gets read. I actually think you rocked that fitted skirt. Anyone who feels the need to publicly comment and tear down a woman over her body/choice of skirt is a sad, pathetic individual. They deserve our sympathy but not our time and nor should we take what they say to heart. That skirt looked fantastic on you and I think you should wear whatever you want, and not pander to the keyboard warriors out there who have nothing better to do than be mean to people they don’t even know.
So yeah, keep doing you and forget the trolls. Have a wonderful day! xo

Never too late! And your comments are so heartening.I fully embrace my body and sew to fit it. Internet meanies have no power over me! That said, I so appreciate your kind words! If you are new to sewing, there are so many tutorials here that keep things easy. So take a look around and enjoy your sewing xxxx

Oh thank you! I have actually been wearing another version of the fitted skirt recently and I’m very happy! And I should have a how to sew stripes into half or full circle skirt post up soon….so stay tuned!

Hi Sarah! I’m just starting sewing, so far I’ve managed to sew boxer shorts that are far too large and a tutu that also doesn’t fit. Lol.
This is such a great tute – thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm! I also just want to note that you rocked the lovely green skirt. Screw the haters, wear it anyway. I’ve been body shamed for being too thin and too thick – can’t win why bother?
I’m going to try and make my own franken-dress now, fingers crossed I keep my stitches straight 😂😂

Keep at it! Sewing can be tough in the beginning but persistence pays off. I’m sure you franken dress will be lovely – send me pics! And since the green skirt episode, I pulled out an unfinished muslin of it and have been wearing it proudly (see here).

Good luck with the sewing! I’m always happy to help if you get stuck xx

Love the tutorial! Frankenpatterning is a great way for people to get just the right dress pattern for their own tastes! One thing that confused me about the actual patternmaking part, though: a vertical and horizontal line won’t intersect at a 45 degree angle. Did you mean a 90 degree angle, or am I reading something wrong?

Hi! So the pattern is only half of the skirt. You can either cut it with one edge on the fold and have a single back seam or cut two pieces and have two side seams, it depends on works for what you are making. I suggest you check out my half circle skirt tutorial too, it might make things clearer.