Scaled-back Carnaval remains rollicking

Maya Ponce of Xiuhcoatl Danza Azteca dances during the opening ceremonies of the 35th annual Carnaval parade in the Mission District of San Francisco,CA on Sunday May 26th, 2013.

Maya Ponce of Xiuhcoatl Danza Azteca dances during the opening ceremonies of the 35th annual Carnaval parade in the Mission District of San Francisco,CA on Sunday May 26th, 2013.

Photo: Michael Short, Special To The Chronicle

Photo: Michael Short, Special To The Chronicle

Image
1of/48

Caption

Close

Image 1 of 48

Maya Ponce of Xiuhcoatl Danza Azteca dances during the opening ceremonies of the 35th annual Carnaval parade in the Mission District of San Francisco,CA on Sunday May 26th, 2013.

Maya Ponce of Xiuhcoatl Danza Azteca dances during the opening ceremonies of the 35th annual Carnaval parade in the Mission District of San Francisco,CA on Sunday May 26th, 2013.

Photo: Michael Short, Special To The Chronicle

Scaled-back Carnaval remains rollicking

1 / 48

Back to Gallery

Carnaval is always a little magical, but this year the Aztec gods were clearly smiling on 24th Street.

Less than three months ago, the annual Latin extravaganza in the Mission District was set for cancellation due to financial setbacks. But a handful of artists and neighborhood activists, along with 500 volunteers, managed to resurrect the 35-year-old tradition with only 82 days to plan and almost zero funds.

"I told them, you don't cancel Christmas and you don't cancel Carnaval," said Roberto Hernandez, who helped spearhead the festival revival. "Then I got on the phone for three straight days. ... When I got out there today, and saw the dancing, the music, my heart and spirit soared. It brought tears to my eyes."

Thousands poured into the Mission District for a scaled-back but rollicking-as-ever parade and party, which featured everything Carnaval fans have come to expect: Brazilian dancers in glittery G-strings, pounding Afro-Caribbean drums, dozens of taco trucks and many, many feathers.

There were so many feathers, in fact, that when the wind picked up some of the dancers nearly took flight. Gusts howled down the side streets, but no one seemed to mind.

"I've got my feather boa to keep warm," said Kimberly Schwartz, a teacher from Napa, who with her friends - "swept up in the samba tide" - spontaneously joined the parade in an impromptu fit of hip-swaying. It was Schwartz's first Carnaval, and she was impressed.

"Our world is such a mess right now, and here, everyone is just celebrating," she said. "All these cultures, all this diversity - everyone is just embracing it. It's fantastic."

For many, the low-key Carnaval felt closer to its original incarnation, a neighborhood party in Precita Park. This weekend's event lacked stages on every block and slick corporate sponsors, but had a friendly, relaxed feel. Families set up barbecues on their front stoops, kids and grandparents watched the parade together, and lines moved quickly for pastor pupusas and horchata. It was even possible to find parking.

"This is more special," said Jose Leon, music teacher and Mission District native. "I love seeing the old community coming together. It's like a family reunion."

Even Bella Rosa Parada ventured out of her deli. The 68-year-old native of Ecuador has worked seven days a week, 10 hours a day for 40 years at her deli, Los Andes, at 23rd and Capp streets. But for Carnaval, she took a short break to check out the festivities.

"I work inside all the time, but I love all the happy music," she said. "It's a fun day."

She had plenty of company. About a dozen family and friends were hanging around Los Andes, laughing, talking and taking pictures. Some had been cooking slow-roasted Ecuadoran-style pork and Alfarojes caramel cookies for days, in preparation for Carnaval.

"I got the recipes from my mother-in-law. When I married into this family, it was like, 'OK, this is what I do now.' I started cooking Thursday," said Tatiana Tonnochy, Parada's daughter-in-law. "I love it, though. We have a lot of fun socializing, and Carnaval is great. I love learning all the different Latin cultures."

Hernandez, this year's Carnaval organizer, was thrilled with the event. He was especially overwhelmed by the number of vendors, nonprofits, politicians and average volunteers who donated their time and money to keep Carnaval alive.

"There's been so much love from this community, I cannot describe," he said. "But next year? I have no idea. Right now I just want to eat, get a massage and sleep."