Comments: The start of this otherwise excellent route has broken. It will still go but looks much more difficult with a clear boulder problem at the bottom. Possible to traverse in from Shakin' Like Milk but it's a solo if you aren't on TR and the first moves aren't protected probably even on TR. I tried starting directly for a few minutes but with a high shallow tips undercling and nothing else, it will be very challenging to get both feet established to make the first reach.

Comments: Quite a fun route. The first bolt makes it look like there is a direct start - much more difficult this way, climb in from the right on big holds. Definitely a worthy route but not quite as good as something like Jane's Addiction or Bebop Tango.

Comments: Pretty fun route, bring lots of thin gear. The only place I got fingers was in a couple of mini-pods / scars at the start, more like seam climbing for me. One of the cruxes for me was protecting the opening sequence pulling the mini-roof, as the obvious gear placement to keep you off the deck for the cruxy moves ahead had my fingers in it...

Comments: I dunno... I'm normally a person who gives a lot of credit to a lot of routes and I enjoy almost every route I do or don't do. To me saying that this is as good as Bikini Whale (3 stars per the site) and better than Satanic or Father Figure (2 stars each per the site - wtf?) is way out of whack. Satanic and Father Figure are two of the best routes I've been on in Jtree of any variety, 4-5 stars of 5, in my eyes anyways. Even after I figured out some beta on Apartheid I didn't care to go up it ag... more >>

Comments: I'll admit that I sketched out of commiting to the move to the 2nd bolt - didn't like the look of the fall at ALL and I was kind of glad I did, as when I then rigged it with a TR to at least play on it some, my first try going right was less than wholy successful :)

There are some fantastic sport routes around this difficulty level in jtree that deserve stars, traffic, fame, etc, so I was pretty let down by this one I guess.

Comments: I disagree with some other folks here - you could hit the dihedral quite hard if you don't get to the second bolt, it's not particularly steep. It's also not very long or, in my opinion, a terribly great route. 3 out of 3 is way overrated, I'd give it at most 2 of 5...

Comments: This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating.

Comments: Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.

Comments: It's my understanding that going lower at the start and not using the hidden jug is the classic / FA line? Seems a good bit harder than V6 via that route. The iron cross isn't terribly hard if you're, say, 5'8" or taller because you get much better feet. The business is definitely getting under the constriction w/o the hidden jug and then holding on to finish. I agree not using the hidden hold is more aesthetic, btw.

Comments: IMO this deserves 1 or 2 stars of 5. It's fairly short and the upper part of the crack is very crufty (a piece of mine rolled over and blew out as the cruft and crystals in the upper crack crumbled away. The climbing is challenging and insecure off fingers and liebacking in a flare that is quite awkward and not very inspiring. It is however fairly unique and the challenges it presents are kinda cool but I doubt I'll ever go back for a redpoint. Protects mostly with gear in the .5-1" range, I did... more >>

Comments: Typical jtree climb in that there are bolts where there need to be and no extras. Be careful getting to the first bolt and then the second, although easy climbing, takes you well into groundfall range. After that it's just keeping calm for another 60' of excellent delicate climbing to a fun steep topout. Gear on top is nuts, cams to 2" and looped flakes, your choice. Rap off bolted anchor to climbers left. Probably not a good first 10b and it'll get your attention but not too bad really.

Comments: If you're taller the crux is certainly easier. I don't know off the top of my head how tall Randy or John are. On a gear note, it's easy to put gear where you need to put your feet on this route.

One of the best routes I've done in the park, ranks w/ O'Kelley Crack, Left Ski Track, Illusion Dweller, Clean and Jerk and the like for me.

Comments: The crux of this climb is actually the left leaning tight hands. Best to place a piece high then pull into it and make a few moves to get to better hands before the next piece goes in. Then eases off to the top. Not hugely sustained but no gimme. Excellent either way, along with Touch and Go probably the best two < 5.10 cracks in the park in my opinion.