It starts simple. You live where there is Trout fishing so you buy a few lightweight rods and reels for Trout. Than move to a state where the is Bass, Stripers, Garr as well as coast fishing for Speckled Trout and Redfish. Than you go to the Pacific NW with Salmon, Steelhead, Rock Cod, Halibut and Ling Cod and that requires a whole new set of equipment. Suddenly you have enough equipment to stock a Fishing Store. Not to mention down-riggers, boat rods, hooks, lures, scent and hopefully a few stringers to carry the catch. As you upgrade to better equipment the idea is to sell off the older stuff, but it has memories and beside you may need it for friends or grandchildren. Suddenly your fishing hobby has become a collection or obsession and you are not sure which. Worse yet, this photo just shows some of my Steelhead, Salmon and Trout rods. It does not include fly fishing, boat and down-rigger rods, misc. rods and about 20 loose reels I accumulated over the years. There are tackle boxes, dressers full of weights, swivels, lures, hooks and assorted tackle. There are downriggers, nets and fishing line. Now I think it borders on obsession.

I had an uncle that had lost both legs to diabetes and had not fished in years but when he saw fishing gear on sale that he really liked he would send me to get it for him. He knew he was not going fishing he just loved the feeling a new piece of fishing equipment gave him and memories of where he would use it.

To add to the addiction you now have E-bay where the equipment you dreamed of as a kid can be purchased sometimes in like new condition. Now you can get that classic Daiwa Millionaire reel, that Shimano Calcutta reel, that Lews Childre bass reel, that Loomis or Fenwick fishing rod and the obcession grows..

Well, the time has come to move again. but this time some of this has got to go. Between Craigslist, E-Bay and this web site it is time to sell and let someone else build the memories. Visit my e-bay site to see what is currently available, I am loading items regularly.

It starts simple. You live where there is Trout fishing so you buy a few lightweight rods and reels for Trout. Than move to a state where the is Bass, Stripers, Garr as well as coast fishing for Speckled Trout and Redfish. Than you go to the Pacific NW with Salmon, Steelhead, Rock Cod, Halibut and Ling Cod and that requires a whole new set of equipment. Suddenly you have enough equipment to stock a Fishing Store. Not to mention down-riggers, boat rods, hooks, lures, scent and hopefully a few stringers to carry the catch. As you upgrade to better equipment the idea is to sell off the older stuff, but it has memories and beside you may need it for friends or grandchildren. Suddenly your fishing hobby has become a collection or obsession and you are not sure which. Worse yet, this photo just shows some of my Steelhead, Salmon and Trout rods. It does not include fly fishing, boat and down-rigger rods, misc. rods and about 20 loose reels I accumulated over the years. There are tackle boxes, dressers full of weights, swivels, lures, hooks and assorted tackle. There are downriggers, nets and fishing line. Now I think it borders on obsession.

I had an uncle that had lost both legs to diabetes and had not fished in years but when he saw fishing gear on sale that he really liked he would send me to get it for him. He knew he was not going fishing he just loved the feeling a new piece of fishing equipment gave him and memories of where he would use it.

To add to the addiction you now have E-bay where the equipment you dreamed of as a kid can be purchased sometimes in like new condition. Now you can get that classic Daiwa Millionaire reel, that Shimano Calcutta reel, that Lews Childre bass reel, that Loomis or Fenwick fishing rod and the obcession grows..

Well, the time has come to move again. but this time some of this has got to go. Between Craigslist, E-Bay and this web site it is time to sell and let someone else build the memories. Visit my e-bay site to see what is currently available, I am loading items regularly.

]]>http://fitzwillies.com/pages/abners-blog.htmlbig-folding-hunters/
Sun, 23 Apr 2017 21:13:45 +0000http://fitzwillies.com/pages/abners-blog.htmlbig-folding-hunters/I love big sheath knives, but I have found like others have they are too big to carry around all the time. Sometimes I will pack a small fixed blade knife especially when woods wandering but I also love the big folding hunter knives. Schrade named theirs the Bowie Folding Hunter and other companies have referred to them with similar names, but usually they are referred to as a folding hunter.

It is surprising how many companies have developed identical knives, but when you want a big folder it makes it easier if most of them are the same and you just pick the manufacturer and steel you prefer.

They all feature the same 2 blades, a long Clip Point blade and a Skinner blade. They were designed for the hunter, but they were perfect for cleaning fish and everyday use. Many times when you buy a used folding hunter, one of the blades will be worn and the other showing little use. Usually the Clip Point was used for everyday use, but some preferred the Skinner blade. The knives were 5 1/4" closed and featured 4" blades. The scales on the knives were the choice of the manufacturer with some offering a variety of materials but generally of bone, Delrin, wood, or some form of plastic.

If you do not want to look like a teenager and let your pants hang low and preview your boxer shorts or plumber crack, a belt sheath is the way to carry them. However some people just carry them loose to toss into in a pack or pouch. The belt pouch helps protect the knife as well, and there was a time when almost all men had one on their belt, especially in the 60's and 70's.

These knives as still easily affordable, used ones can be found for around $15 and a new Case model for a little over $50. Of course some of the more Classic and Vintage folding hunters can cost a lot more. The blade material is usually either high carbon steel like 1095 or one of the stainless steels like 440c and both can do the job well. One advantage the Hunter Folding Knife had was if one blade got dull cleaning a big animal like an Elk and a sharpener was not available, they just switched to the other blade to complete the job.

One of the big changes was in 1964 when Buck introduced the Buck 110, a single blade lock back folding hunter and since then over 15 million have been sold. It was probably the most popular single blade folder. In 1993 Buck switched to 420 HC Stainless Steel and has used that steel on many knives since.

If you are looking for a good knife and possibly a model to start collecting, the Folding Hunters are a good place to start. However, I must warn you they are addictive, but then so are all knives.

]]>I love big sheath knives, but I have found like others have they are too big to carry around all the time. Sometimes I will pack a small fixed blade knife especially when woods wandering but I also love the big folding hunter knives. Schrade named theirs the Bowie Folding Hunter and other companies have referred to them with similar names, but usually they are referred to as a folding hunter.

It is surprising how many companies have developed identical knives, but when you want a big folder it makes it easier if most of them are the same and you just pick the manufacturer and steel you prefer.

They all feature the same 2 blades, a long Clip Point blade and a Skinner blade. They were designed for the hunter, but they were perfect for cleaning fish and everyday use. Many times when you buy a used folding hunter, one of the blades will be worn and the other showing little use. Usually the Clip Point was used for everyday use, but some preferred the Skinner blade. The knives were 5 1/4" closed and featured 4" blades. The scales on the knives were the choice of the manufacturer with some offering a variety of materials but generally of bone, Delrin, wood, or some form of plastic.

If you do not want to look like a teenager and let your pants hang low and preview your boxer shorts or plumber crack, a belt sheath is the way to carry them. However some people just carry them loose to toss into in a pack or pouch. The belt pouch helps protect the knife as well, and there was a time when almost all men had one on their belt, especially in the 60's and 70's.

These knives as still easily affordable, used ones can be found for around $15 and a new Case model for a little over $50. Of course some of the more Classic and Vintage folding hunters can cost a lot more. The blade material is usually either high carbon steel like 1095 or one of the stainless steels like 440c and both can do the job well. One advantage the Hunter Folding Knife had was if one blade got dull cleaning a big animal like an Elk and a sharpener was not available, they just switched to the other blade to complete the job.

One of the big changes was in 1964 when Buck introduced the Buck 110, a single blade lock back folding hunter and since then over 15 million have been sold. It was probably the most popular single blade folder. In 1993 Buck switched to 420 HC Stainless Steel and has used that steel on many knives since.

If you are looking for a good knife and possibly a model to start collecting, the Folding Hunters are a good place to start. However, I must warn you they are addictive, but then so are all knives.

The Cattaraugus 225Q is an iconic WWII knife produced in 1942-1944 by Cattaraugus Cutlery Co for US military Quartermasters but was treasured by soldiers and often referred to as the Commando or WWII fighting knife. Often when you see a picture of a theatre knife from WWII they used a Cattarugus 225Q as the blade. The "Q" in the Cattaraugus 225Q stands for Quartermaster for which the company designed the knives. The knife is a stout 10 3/8″ fixed blade knife, constructed of 1095 steel with a point designed to be used like a pry bar to open up cases of supplies in WWII by Military Quartermasters and the pommel of the knife has 3 heavy steel washers to act like a hammer to close the cases back up. The last washer in the pommel has serrations similar to a framing hammer to help grip the nail and prevent slipping. The handle of the knife was made up from leather washers and the tang of the blade goes all the way through the handle. Cattaraugus developed a unique and simple system to hold the washers and pommel together. The middle steel washer is slotted to fit over the tang and than rotated to lock the washer and leather handle disks in place and the final washer on the pommel has a slot to fit the tang inside and than 2 ringed nails are driven through the steel washers in holes drilled for that purpose directly into the leather washers.The stout blade of the knife is just over 6" in length. The quality of this knife is evidenced by the condition of many of the knives after more than 70 years of being used. Many still have the leather washers still attached (although many are corroded) and the pommel is still securely attached.

The Cattarugus 225Q is also unique in that the leather sheath is left handed. Exactly why this was done is not sure but the opinion is that soldiers who carried pistols did so on the right side therefore the knife was designed to be carried on the left so as not to create any obstacles to getting to the pistol in a hurry. Over time the knives being stored in the sheaths suffered from blade corrosion by the chemicals used in tanning back than and the fact that the leather would absorb water which causes the Cattaraugus to corrode. While many of the Cattaraugus 225Q knives suffer the effects of time, it is still a great blade to use, sharpens easily, is extremely durable and makes a great bug-out kit/survival knife if you can locate one. Many no longer have sheaths or you may want to have a right handed sheath made or locate a similar sized replacement. Many of the Cattaraugus 225Q's were sent to the Pacific Theatre during WWII so salt water was also an issue.

Cattaraugus remained in business until 1963 making knives and in the 70's A.G. Russell revived the name and occasionally produces knives under that name.

One of my favorite knives that I handle and sell at knife shows is the Ontario Quartermaster. It is patterned after the Cattaraugus 225Q with it's leather handle and stout blade and is a knife that has a great feel and balance. While the Ontario Quartermaster is similar to the Cattaraugus 225Q there are several differences. The Ontario Quartermaster features a 440 steel blade while the Cattaraugus 225Q is 1095 steel. The blade also seems stouter on the Cattaraugua at the point with a different spear type point for opening crates, the pommel is heavier on the Cattaraugus and designed for pounding and the Cattaraugus 225Q came with a left handed sheath. I would not want to try to pound nails with the Ontario Quartermaster. More recent Ontario Quartermasters are still made in the USA, but the sheaths are made in Mexico. It is still a well built and attractive knife with the leather handle and brass pommel.

]]>

The Cattaraugus 225Q is an iconic WWII knife produced in 1942-1944 by Cattaraugus Cutlery Co for US military Quartermasters but was treasured by soldiers and often referred to as the Commando or WWII fighting knife. Often when you see a picture of a theatre knife from WWII they used a Cattarugus 225Q as the blade. The "Q" in the Cattaraugus 225Q stands for Quartermaster for which the company designed the knives. The knife is a stout 10 3/8″ fixed blade knife, constructed of 1095 steel with a point designed to be used like a pry bar to open up cases of supplies in WWII by Military Quartermasters and the pommel of the knife has 3 heavy steel washers to act like a hammer to close the cases back up. The last washer in the pommel has serrations similar to a framing hammer to help grip the nail and prevent slipping. The handle of the knife was made up from leather washers and the tang of the blade goes all the way through the handle. Cattaraugus developed a unique and simple system to hold the washers and pommel together. The middle steel washer is slotted to fit over the tang and than rotated to lock the washer and leather handle disks in place and the final washer on the pommel has a slot to fit the tang inside and than 2 ringed nails are driven through the steel washers in holes drilled for that purpose directly into the leather washers.The stout blade of the knife is just over 6" in length. The quality of this knife is evidenced by the condition of many of the knives after more than 70 years of being used. Many still have the leather washers still attached (although many are corroded) and the pommel is still securely attached.

The Cattarugus 225Q is also unique in that the leather sheath is left handed. Exactly why this was done is not sure but the opinion is that soldiers who carried pistols did so on the right side therefore the knife was designed to be carried on the left so as not to create any obstacles to getting to the pistol in a hurry. Over time the knives being stored in the sheaths suffered from blade corrosion by the chemicals used in tanning back than and the fact that the leather would absorb water which causes the Cattaraugus to corrode. While many of the Cattaraugus 225Q knives suffer the effects of time, it is still a great blade to use, sharpens easily, is extremely durable and makes a great bug-out kit/survival knife if you can locate one. Many no longer have sheaths or you may want to have a right handed sheath made or locate a similar sized replacement. Many of the Cattaraugus 225Q's were sent to the Pacific Theatre during WWII so salt water was also an issue.

Cattaraugus remained in business until 1963 making knives and in the 70's A.G. Russell revived the name and occasionally produces knives under that name.

One of my favorite knives that I handle and sell at knife shows is the Ontario Quartermaster. It is patterned after the Cattaraugus 225Q with it's leather handle and stout blade and is a knife that has a great feel and balance. While the Ontario Quartermaster is similar to the Cattaraugus 225Q there are several differences. The Ontario Quartermaster features a 440 steel blade while the Cattaraugus 225Q is 1095 steel. The blade also seems stouter on the Cattaraugua at the point with a different spear type point for opening crates, the pommel is heavier on the Cattaraugus and designed for pounding and the Cattaraugus 225Q came with a left handed sheath. I would not want to try to pound nails with the Ontario Quartermaster. More recent Ontario Quartermasters are still made in the USA, but the sheaths are made in Mexico. It is still a well built and attractive knife with the leather handle and brass pommel.

While we think of ourselves and carrying survival items, what about our family members? My sister who travels overseas on vacation and does quite a bit of hiking and walks recently asked about a survival kit. I realized while I was prepared other family members might not be and will probably not have the skills set that I do. I put together a small kit for her with an emphasis on shelter, fire, water purification, signalling and navigation. Really a short term overnight kit. Wanting it somewhat discreet and because it was a great size I used a Nemo Sandwich box.

Survival
Kit Includes:

Unique Nemo sandwich holder

Large survival blanket

Cub Scout knife

Wetfire cube

Ferro rod with striker

Brunton 7 compass

Signal whistle

Cotton balls/Vaseline fire starter

Ignite-o fire
starter

Waterproof/windproof matches

4 water purifier tabs treat 1/qt each

Ziploc qt bag (water storage)

Magnifying glass (fire, fun, reading)

Razor/metal saw combo

Fish hooks/fishing line (use worms)

Butane lighter (remove rope to use)

25’ cordage (tarred bankline 165#)

I did not include some items like 1st Aid Kit as I hope a traveller carries a small kit already as well as water bottle.

]]>

While we think of ourselves and carrying survival items, what about our family members? My sister who travels overseas on vacation and does quite a bit of hiking and walks recently asked about a survival kit. I realized while I was prepared other family members might not be and will probably not have the skills set that I do. I put together a small kit for her with an emphasis on shelter, fire, water purification, signalling and navigation. Really a short term overnight kit. Wanting it somewhat discreet and because it was a great size I used a Nemo Sandwich box.

Survival
Kit Includes:

Unique Nemo sandwich holder

Large survival blanket

Cub Scout knife

Wetfire cube

Ferro rod with striker

Brunton 7 compass

Signal whistle

Cotton balls/Vaseline fire starter

Ignite-o fire
starter

Waterproof/windproof matches

4 water purifier tabs treat 1/qt each

Ziploc qt bag (water storage)

Magnifying glass (fire, fun, reading)

Razor/metal saw combo

Fish hooks/fishing line (use worms)

Butane lighter (remove rope to use)

25’ cordage (tarred bankline 165#)

I did not include some items like 1st Aid Kit as I hope a traveller carries a small kit already as well as water bottle.

]]>http://fitzwillies.com/the-blog/a-quick-look-the-bk7-vs-rat7-vs-ukt0200/
Mon, 04 Jul 2016 20:58:20 +0000http://fitzwillies.com/the-blog/a-quick-look-the-bk7-vs-rat7-vs-ukt0200/ This is not a technical review of the BK-7, RAT-7, or UKT0200 as to how well they chop down a Giant Redwood tree in a survival situation. How one is better than another to start a fire by holding it upright in a thunderstorm to attract lightning (don't do this) or the relative merits of one protective knife coating over another. They are all great knives and I would be overjoyed possessing any of them in a survival or defensive situation. Rather it is more of a side by side analysis of 3 very similar knives and their minor differences.

The RAT-7 and BK-7 have a great following in the survival community and each person that owns it might have a different reason as to why they chose it, but for the money both are competative priced based on MSRP. I used the MSRP supplied from a distributor I purchase from as it would be consistent. I picked the UKT0200 as the 3rd knife because I have it in stock and it is similar but there are many knives like it that are in the category of what I consider Limited Edition Production, knives. They are not mass produced nor are they Hand Crafted Custom knives. The one I used is a 2013 production, #10 of 55.

First of all the specifications are similar:

You will notice the blade thickness of the UKT0200 which is called the 8" Field Knife is 1/4" inch verses the more common 3/16th" of the other 2 knives and is therefore heavier. It also carries a lower Rockwell score that means it is not quite as hard as the other 2 blades and it features a leather sheath verses nylon. It also costs more.

The factor I consider first when I am getting a new knife is feel. How does it feel in my hand, how is it balanced; 50/50, weight forward, or handle heavy. Does the grip fit me or can I modify it to fit. If the knife does not feel right than I won't use it or if I plan to do some chopping and it is heavy in the handle, it will not chop as well and put more wear out my wrist. For general camp without much need for chopping use, a 50/50 is easier on your arms. Handle heavy makes it better defensively; slicing and thrusting in my opinion.

I used a triangle piece of wood to visualize the balance point on these three knives. Once I found the balance point I leaned the knife on it's pommel so it would stay in place while I balanced the other two.

You can see the RAT-7 has a balance point on the hex head on the micarta handle, The UKT 0200 after the choil where the blade begins and the BK-7 balance point on the handle (It actually balances just inside where the handle begins but the surface is rounded and it shifted slightly) . So while the knives are similar their balance point is different.

All three have different sheaths and the handle designs and materials are very different. The BK-7 handle has a good feel but is unpopular as it has a plastic handle which can make it slippery when wet. You can purchase Micarta handles,they run $40-$50. I used the regular handles for quite awhile till I took in a BK7 with Micarta handles and swapped mine out. The RAT-7 has Micarta; it is a big handle which if I carried I would round down the edges to make the grip better fit my hand. UKT0200 has a good proportioned Micarta handle and fit's my hands but I have big hands.

There is a lot of comments on the internet regarding the sheath of the BK-7 being cheap. There are plenty aftermarket sheaths and I made me a simple one out of leather for mine. I was not blown away by the original BK-7 sheath, but it is serviceable. I remember a show where a knife buyer was looking at buying a BK-7 which at that time sold for around $100 and he was showing a photo of a custom sheath he saw on the internet for $265 he really wanted. It is whatever makes you happy.

Again all three are great knives, but all three are different, their balance point, the handles and the sheaths. You can see more photos of each as well as prices here. www.fitzwillies.com.

]]> This is not a technical review of the BK-7, RAT-7, or UKT0200 as to how well they chop down a Giant Redwood tree in a survival situation. How one is better than another to start a fire by holding it upright in a thunderstorm to attract lightning (don't do this) or the relative merits of one protective knife coating over another. They are all great knives and I would be overjoyed possessing any of them in a survival or defensive situation. Rather it is more of a side by side analysis of 3 very similar knives and their minor differences.

The RAT-7 and BK-7 have a great following in the survival community and each person that owns it might have a different reason as to why they chose it, but for the money both are competative priced based on MSRP. I used the MSRP supplied from a distributor I purchase from as it would be consistent. I picked the UKT0200 as the 3rd knife because I have it in stock and it is similar but there are many knives like it that are in the category of what I consider Limited Edition Production, knives. They are not mass produced nor are they Hand Crafted Custom knives. The one I used is a 2013 production, #10 of 55.

First of all the specifications are similar:

You will notice the blade thickness of the UKT0200 which is called the 8" Field Knife is 1/4" inch verses the more common 3/16th" of the other 2 knives and is therefore heavier. It also carries a lower Rockwell score that means it is not quite as hard as the other 2 blades and it features a leather sheath verses nylon. It also costs more.

The factor I consider first when I am getting a new knife is feel. How does it feel in my hand, how is it balanced; 50/50, weight forward, or handle heavy. Does the grip fit me or can I modify it to fit. If the knife does not feel right than I won't use it or if I plan to do some chopping and it is heavy in the handle, it will not chop as well and put more wear out my wrist. For general camp without much need for chopping use, a 50/50 is easier on your arms. Handle heavy makes it better defensively; slicing and thrusting in my opinion.

I used a triangle piece of wood to visualize the balance point on these three knives. Once I found the balance point I leaned the knife on it's pommel so it would stay in place while I balanced the other two.

You can see the RAT-7 has a balance point on the hex head on the micarta handle, The UKT 0200 after the choil where the blade begins and the BK-7 balance point on the handle (It actually balances just inside where the handle begins but the surface is rounded and it shifted slightly) . So while the knives are similar their balance point is different.

All three have different sheaths and the handle designs and materials are very different. The BK-7 handle has a good feel but is unpopular as it has a plastic handle which can make it slippery when wet. You can purchase Micarta handles,they run $40-$50. I used the regular handles for quite awhile till I took in a BK7 with Micarta handles and swapped mine out. The RAT-7 has Micarta; it is a big handle which if I carried I would round down the edges to make the grip better fit my hand. UKT0200 has a good proportioned Micarta handle and fit's my hands but I have big hands.

There is a lot of comments on the internet regarding the sheath of the BK-7 being cheap. There are plenty aftermarket sheaths and I made me a simple one out of leather for mine. I was not blown away by the original BK-7 sheath, but it is serviceable. I remember a show where a knife buyer was looking at buying a BK-7 which at that time sold for around $100 and he was showing a photo of a custom sheath he saw on the internet for $265 he really wanted. It is whatever makes you happy.

Again all three are great knives, but all three are different, their balance point, the handles and the sheaths. You can see more photos of each as well as prices here. www.fitzwillies.com.

The Swiss Army knife is to help make process wood for kindling and to be an asset in overall survival. There is a small amount of cordage on the bic lighter.

The Compass is to be able to figure out which direction you came from and where you are heading. After a night in the woods, you may not be able to recall the location you came from without knowing the direction you traveled. Rely on the compass to avoid uncertainity.

The red lanyard is so that once you use a tool like the ferro rod or Swiss Army Knife you can put it on the lanyard for easy access. The mini compass has it's own lanyard.

The Swiss Army knife is to help make process wood for kindling and to be an asset in overall survival. There is a small amount of cordage on the bic lighter.

The Compass is to be able to figure out which direction you came from and where you are heading. After a night in the woods, you may not be able to recall the location you came from without knowing the direction you traveled. Rely on the compass to avoid uncertainity.

The red lanyard is so that once you use a tool like the ferro rod or Swiss Army Knife you can put it on the lanyard for easy access. The mini compass has it's own lanyard.

Surrounded by different products I find myself putting together a variety of Survival Kits. The Survival Necklace was an idea for a kit that would be virtually impossible to be separated from. It is not in your pockets, in your backpack, or in your vehicle, it is put around your neck. It might be an item you slip on when you are going scouting around your camp and want something basic with you, or you are in a boat and you want something in case the boat flips, or perhaps you just like that macho cave man necklace/bling look. In any case this was assembled with the understanding you may be immersed in water while wearing it so it must be able to withstand a dunking. Again, what you would build is up to you, I just tried to build it durable and simple.

It is centered around some basic categories, a good cutting tool, firestarting, navigation, signaling both visually with a reflector and by sound with a whistle. I used a leather necklace, it could have been 550 cord but leather gives me the ability to tie the knife to a pole with wet leather and once it dries it will tighten up. The knife is an Ansa Knife made by Charlie Davis from old files. These knives are very sharp and sturdy and could be replaced with a folder like a 5 blade military knife but I used the Anza because I wanted something special.The black whistle is a UST jet scream a powerful sturdy pealess whistle, the compass a Sun Mini Comp compass an excellent micro orienteering compass, the firesteel a 1/4" X 2.5" ferrocerium which can be scraped using the knife, the matches are in an orange Exotac waterproof aluminum carrier and the signal mirror is an Adventure Medical Rescue Flash. The kit you build could be entirely different, but only use items you have tested and are confident with. The Rock, that is just basic Caveman gear and not attached to the necklace.

]]>

Surrounded by different products I find myself putting together a variety of Survival Kits. The Survival Necklace was an idea for a kit that would be virtually impossible to be separated from. It is not in your pockets, in your backpack, or in your vehicle, it is put around your neck. It might be an item you slip on when you are going scouting around your camp and want something basic with you, or you are in a boat and you want something in case the boat flips, or perhaps you just like that macho cave man necklace/bling look. In any case this was assembled with the understanding you may be immersed in water while wearing it so it must be able to withstand a dunking. Again, what you would build is up to you, I just tried to build it durable and simple.

It is centered around some basic categories, a good cutting tool, firestarting, navigation, signaling both visually with a reflector and by sound with a whistle. I used a leather necklace, it could have been 550 cord but leather gives me the ability to tie the knife to a pole with wet leather and once it dries it will tighten up. The knife is an Ansa Knife made by Charlie Davis from old files. These knives are very sharp and sturdy and could be replaced with a folder like a 5 blade military knife but I used the Anza because I wanted something special.The black whistle is a UST jet scream a powerful sturdy pealess whistle, the compass a Sun Mini Comp compass an excellent micro orienteering compass, the firesteel a 1/4" X 2.5" ferrocerium which can be scraped using the knife, the matches are in an orange Exotac waterproof aluminum carrier and the signal mirror is an Adventure Medical Rescue Flash. The kit you build could be entirely different, but only use items you have tested and are confident with. The Rock, that is just basic Caveman gear and not attached to the necklace.

I have always loved big knives that are 6"+for chopping and self defense, but smaller ones in the 3.5"-5.5" are more practical for general purpose Bushcraft or Camp use. This kit has both, plus some basic survival items. If I could only grab one thing quickly, this would be it. Chances are my backpack is close by, but when you are roaming around a campsite, or hear a noise outside and have no gun, this would be the one I would grab.

Starting at the 12:00 position is my UTK 0200 8" field knife in 1095 steel made in the USA with Coca Bolo handle. The sheath is a Spec Ops Combat Master sheath and attached to it is a 3/16th X 4" firesteel with striker. The knife below the sheath is a Marbles Plainsman with 4.5" blade of 1095 steel. Below that is a diamond sharpener with fine and extra fine sides.Left of the sharpener is a Doug Ritter Pico emergency light, a waterproof match holder with 16 waterproof, windproof matches, 2 strikers and some cotton balls/petroleum jelly as a filler. Continuing left we have a Leatherman tool with pliers, file, wood saw and more, Left of that is a 3/8"X3" firesteel with scraper, a pink straw and 2 other containers of Cotton/ petroleum jelly. Finally at the 9:00 position is a AA quality button compass glued to the sheath.

Am I missing all that I should have, yes, but this gives me defense, cutting, fire, direction, light, and a multitool. Lots of fire because that is important to me and 2 firesteels so I could trade one if needed, or just help out someone in need. All of these items are tried and true and I have confidence in their performance and my ability to use them.

]]>

I Love Big Knives.

I have always loved big knives that are 6"+for chopping and self defense, but smaller ones in the 3.5"-5.5" are more practical for general purpose Bushcraft or Camp use. This kit has both, plus some basic survival items. If I could only grab one thing quickly, this would be it. Chances are my backpack is close by, but when you are roaming around a campsite, or hear a noise outside and have no gun, this would be the one I would grab.

Starting at the 12:00 position is my UTK 0200 8" field knife in 1095 steel made in the USA with Coca Bolo handle. The sheath is a Spec Ops Combat Master sheath and attached to it is a 3/16th X 4" firesteel with striker. The knife below the sheath is a Marbles Plainsman with 4.5" blade of 1095 steel. Below that is a diamond sharpener with fine and extra fine sides.Left of the sharpener is a Doug Ritter Pico emergency light, a waterproof match holder with 16 waterproof, windproof matches, 2 strikers and some cotton balls/petroleum jelly as a filler. Continuing left we have a Leatherman tool with pliers, file, wood saw and more, Left of that is a 3/8"X3" firesteel with scraper, a pink straw and 2 other containers of Cotton/ petroleum jelly. Finally at the 9:00 position is a AA quality button compass glued to the sheath.

Am I missing all that I should have, yes, but this gives me defense, cutting, fire, direction, light, and a multitool. Lots of fire because that is important to me and 2 firesteels so I could trade one if needed, or just help out someone in need. All of these items are tried and true and I have confidence in their performance and my ability to use them.