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Squaremeal Review of
Céleste at The Lanesborough

We cheered when The Lanesborough's restaurant finally emerged from its protracted two-year refurb with a new look and a new executive chef. Florian Favario worked under Eric Fréchon at the three-Michelin-starred Le Bristol Epicure in Paris, and his internationally flavoured menu reads like a culinary lingua franca for global luxury (native blue lobster, sea rainbow trout and so on) – although he excels at coaxing the essential flavour from his ingredients, be it tomatoes or strawberries. Seafood is dextrously handled, and meat-eaters aren't neglected – Favario's pigeon 'a la Francaise' with potato soufflé isn't just there to be Instagrammed. The glass-domed room has been tricked out in rather sugary Georgian fancy dress with bas-relief friezes, fluted columns and chandeliers (as befits a fine-dining destination), although charming staff stage-manage proceedings with a light touch. Wines are taken seriously, and Céleste is also perfect for afternoon tea.