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Marc Jacobs

locationNew York, 14 February 2013

locationNew York, 14 February 2013

THE sun literally went down on New York Fashion Week this evening and the man to make that happen was one <a href=" www.vogue.co.uk/brand/marc-jacobs" target="”_blank”">Marc Jacobs who lit his stage with two glowing suns while a tannoy instructed that no flash photography could be taken. This was the show of the week - after Storm Nemo and the controversy of moving his mainline show so that most of the British press (and others too), were already airborne and on their way to London as the first model stepped onto the runway. To all intents and purposes, it was something of a fashion moment, good or bad, sad or happy, depending if you were there or not - but live-streamed so that anyone not in transit could still feel the Marc magic.

For that's what it was as the line-up of girls wandered out and around the circular catwalk space so as they might be lovely lunar creatures orbiting the two suns of Planet Marc - firstly in simple and masculine Hitchcock styles: splaying belted coats; slinky pyjama suits in molten metallics; vintage Forties and Fifties-style fur coats; or neat blazers worn only with plenty of leg on show and a great heel below; or little belted high-waisted knickers.

"I think this is my favourite collection we've ever done. It's chic, simple and sexy," said Robert Duffy pre-show as he chatted to model Jessica Stam and admitted that the week had been stressful. Never mind the snow Nemo, moving a show - and the show of NYFW - is quite the fashion Nemo itself.

It was a very elegant but simple, chic and sophisticated collection that seemed really to gear itself towards that Hitchcock heroine - she seems lovely at first but there's something a little sinister at play too. The lady is a vamp. And she certainly was here - pencil skirts and semi T-bar shoes, her fox fur slung across her shoulder, or her stole around her neck while her bag nestled just so under her arm so as not ruin her sinuous silhouette.

Coats were in camel and grey and an outfit all in themselves and then came forest greens and black for full fur looks and, to contrast, there was one model whose only accessory was her arm covering her chest.

It then went sparkly, beaming up chainmail mesh detail on to shifts and more high-waisted little knickers; then seriously shimmery and old Hollywood in wonders - dresses mostly - of gold and blue and silver, again more stoles to complete the look, which were glittering and glistening versions of what we'd seen before.

It's been some while since our eye has been on ladylike chic (though to call it that here isn't right, it's Marc's take so it's quite a bit more), something that has been lost amid a move towards simplicity and practicality of late. But now looks the time to reinstate that lady of the house. Because Marc Jacobs is the sartorial equivalent of Simon Says. And Marc says sexy and simple next season.