Front panel display not lit after power outage.

I have a Samsung RS267LBBP side by side refrigerator. It's just over a year old. A couple of days ago, the power went out in the house for approximately 5 seconds. Once the power came back on, the front panel only has a single segment of the large numbers on the right blinking. Is there a way to reset the panel?

Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
GOOD LUCK, WORK SAFELY..

I'm having the same issue. I took apart the refrig. compartment and deiced the evaporator (was a big block of ice). The frig works until it ices up again. I've tested the current in all the sensors and the heater. All get current through, so now I'm going to test the PBA main according to the service manual instructions. I have no electrical experience, but was able to figure out how to test all those parts with an ohm meter. My guess is that I'll have to buy a new PBA main circuit board. Some advice, shop around because I've found $72 all the way up to $198 for the same part. I first hired a repair man, he acted like he knew the problem, but after checking his work (and paying him) I found that he was completely wrong (he said the freezer fan was not pushing air to the frig. - this is a twin cooling system and the freezer fan does not effect the frig. side.) Now I'm doing it myself cause I can't find another repair man that works on Samsung. I'll post my results after the fix.

Here are my observations and solutions after 6 weeks of problems
with my Samsung RS2533sw side by side refrigerator/freezer.

First problem was the refrigerator defrost cycle was not
working.I first called a local
technician to solve the problem.Big
mistake, he didn’t know what he was talking about and it cost $60 for
nothing.After calling around and not
finding anyone else who would service my refrigerator, I worked on it
myself.I finally diagnosed that the PCB
(or PBA) main computer board had gone bad.All other refrigerator defrost parts tested ok with an ohm meter.Unplugging the refrigerator to ‘reset’ it for
any length of time did not solve the problem.So I ordered a new PCB main from Searspartsdirect.com for $87 + SSH
(part number DA41-00134A or D or F – don’t worry about the last letter, they
are all the same part).The new part
solved the problem.

One note about ordering parts, I choose Searspartsdirect.com,
they were the second lowest price.They
also have very good customer service, at least when I’ve dealt with them.They will send a replacement part if the part
they sent you fails within 30 days (only once on electrical parts though).Partstore.com gets very bad reviews and for
just $6 less than Sears, I wouldn’t risk the agony of poor customer
service.Partselect.com is pricey, $150.Samsungparts.com was $20 more than
Sears.All these stores are online
because I could not find any stores that carry Samsung parts and it is even
harder to find a repairman willing to work on Samsung refrigerators, I live in Dallas
where there are 6 million people in the metro area and only 2 service men are
registered with Samsung as being qualified.

I found out something very interesting before installing the
new PCB main.In order to know if I
could do it myself, I took apart the back compartment and took out the existing
PCB main.I then reconnected it and put
it all back together so at least I’d have a working freezer.I then ordered the new part.In the mean time between getting the new part
and having disconnected the original main circuit board that interesting thing
happened.I came out a couple of days
later and found a pool of water on the floor in front of the frig.The original circuit board was activating the
defrost cycle in the refrigerator and had melted a huge block of ice, now water
on my floor!!!I had already ordered the
part and couldn’t cancel it, so I kept the part and installed it anyways,
rather than pay more postage just to get the cost of the part refunded.

So if you think you have a bad circuit board and unplugging
the frig to ‘reset’ it doesn’t work, you might just want to try disconnecting
all the leads to the circuit board and just stick it back together and see if
that actually ‘resets’ the unit.Just
the other day the freezer side completely shut down (freezer stopped cooling,
water dispenser and ice maker quit).I
disconnected the circuit board completely again (all 8 connections) and that
fixed it.Now everything works as it
should (note it may take several hours or even a day or two before everything
starts to work normally).One important note
before disconnecting the circuit board, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FIRST!!!

Another interesting thing I found out about the defrost
heater for the frig, is that during the defrost cycle it makes a soft, low
grumbling sound (I was trying to eliminate the heater as the cause of the
defrost not working).I know this
because while this sound was going on I disconnected the lead to the heat
element the sound immediately stopped and when I reconnected the heater plug,
the sound resumed.The heater plug is
next to the fan plug in the upper right of the compartment in the back of the
frig as you access it from inside the frig compartment.

Lastly to see if I can prevent having to disconnect the
circuit board all the time (we have infrequent power outages here which I think
have a lot to do with this issue), I bought a $10 surge protector just for the
refrigerator.Hope that solves that
problem and good luck to whoever has the same issues.

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Related Questions:

Surge associated with power outage can make disasters in refrigerators. You need a power protector for refrigerators.
Now, what already is damaged, should be repaired by an authorized techician.
For protector, you can do a search; typical return is this one

Hopefully the whole thing can be removed easily. Usually only a couple of screws holding it in place. Better to work on it at a table.
Once out, carefully remove the front cover and start checking electrical connections, many are just contact points, and when it gets jammed, it scorches a contact. If you can find the spot and somehow make it better it may work again. Otherwise, the timer section may be available at a repair shop or at Repairclinic.com.

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

with samsung refers the control board and ice maker have be updated
Most likely reason water not dispensing out door
1) You can turn up the temp in the freezer to see if it thaws in a couple of days,
2) Turn on the dispenser light and leave it on, will thaw the line and keep it thawed,
3) the water tank is frozen in the fresh food side (you can defrost with a blow drier)
6) the fill valve went bad or plugged ( power to fill valve but not opening) ($50)
7) Micro switch went bad in the dispenser for the water side
8) Door switch bad
9) Install a heater kit to thaw the line and it will keep it thawed ($35) PN#1381601
10) You can replace the whole door if insulation gone bad in door ( $500 to $800)
11) a broken wire to the fill valve ( no power to fill valve )
12) with GE refrigerator bad dispenser boards or control boards ($400 and $150)
13) plugged, faulty or incorrectly installed water filter
let me know more about you problem and I can help..

I would chech the components on the compressor. Take the cover off the compressor power terminals and inspect the relay for damage.The power outage is not a concern but the power surge could definately be the cause. hope this helps.