Thank you for the info everybody. The 8th digit is a 2 so it's a lly. I did a search on the site for lly injectors and read very briefly about rebuild or replace and something involving an ice pick. Don't know if that's what you're talking about. What's the issue and what needs to be done? I'll get a shop to do it. Approx cost?

Is this something I should look into? Also wondering about Ride Rite airbags/airsprings. And of course there's the question of the choice of which fifth wheel hitch.

Ok. Good. Now we know what to tell you lol. You need to invest into an LBZ turbo inlet manifold (mouth piece or mp for short), or you can buy an aFE mp. The LBZ mp is cheaper but will require cutting your intake to make it fit (some good write ups on that). The afe mp is a drop in replacement.

You also need to block your egr ($10) or you can buy the delete kit ($200+ but looks better under the hood). You will either need to do a finger stick (others can chime in on this) or if you buy a tuner for your truck, you can have the egr shut off. This is needed either way you go though if you don't want to throw a code.

Also get an aftermarket full exhaust to get rid of that converter.

If you do this, you will probably never have an issue, but LLYs have a bad reputation for blowing head gaskets due to overheating so many people will tell you to go ahead and replace the hgs. However, the LB7 has the same hgs and they do not have hg troubles near as often. This is because the stock mp and egr on the LLY help produce more heat on the engine than what the LB7 with no egr would see. So if you take care of these issues then you have taken the driving factors for overheating out of the equation. For peace of mind, you may want to think about new hgs at some point though.

As far as EFI, go for it. There are great tuners who can give you great tunes, and one good thing about the LLY is that it has a vvt, so if you get a tow tune, it will enable the vanes in the turbo housing to close when braking and essentially act as an exhaust brake, which will come in handy when heading down a mountain grade.

Also, since you have a 4x4, look into getting a transfer case pump rub fix kit. It's $75 I think, but will keep you from having to buy a t case housing or a complete t case.

I hope I am not confusing you, but if so, all the guys on here that are smarter than me (a plethora of them on this site) will be more than happy to help you out.

LLY injectors are fine. The #2 and #7 HARNESS sometimes causes problems. If it an 04, they have likely been fixed. Also look at the wire harness where it contacts the alternator bracket, put a little padding between the two.

Some say the LLY overheats when pulling heavy, I have not experienced the same problem. Do some searching for "LLY overheat" and read up on it.

You will be just fine with that weight, air bags may be handy, since those toy haulers tend to be pin heavy. A tune (aka: chip or programmer) would also be a good idea as well as a 4" exhaust to keep the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) down. I suggest an Edge with CTS for a tune, it's a good tuner for plug-n-play and has a read-out for EGT.

Keep the trailer brakes in good order, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, put an exhaust brake on it.

I routinely pulled a 16,500 enclosed GN with my LLY, pulled it at 75-80 mph. You will be just fine.

Thank you for the info rk. I hope I can learn about all this stuff. Whew! I'm sure it's all very worthwhile. Not that it matters, but the 04 truck only has 13,500 miles on it. Just been sitting. The speedo is dead stuck due to just sitting.

Premis, I'll look into the things you say too. Padding the wire harness... A tune (aka: chip or programmer) and a 4" exhaust.

By the way, I ordered a BD3 Air-Ride 5th Wheel Hitch. Should arrive Monday. I hope that along with axle air bags should keep me from getting pushed around too bad by the beast.

I'm gonna have my hands full getting up to speed enough to have a shop do these mods for me. I hope you guys don't mind more questions. I really appreciate you getting me on the right track. It's an enormous help.

current price
Edge Products 83830 CTS Insight Monitor $334 But is this a tow tune?

"aftermarket full exhaust to get rid of that converter" What should I look for?

The edge is a programmer that has multiple tunes I think they are

1. Mileage
2. Tow
3. Drive
4. Race
5. Extreme
6. Crazy Larry.

The CTS is the part that allows you to change between tunes as well as setting other parameters, like low boost fueling, torque lock up, etc. it also gives you additional gauges. You need the CTS monitor AND the chip.http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=135&pvk=369

For exhaust, I prefer a turbo-back straight pipe, you can find them on eBay for under $300. Notice, you will NOT pass a smog test (if your state requires it) with a straight pipe.

LLY ... has a vvt, so if you get a tow tune, it will enable the vanes in the turbo housing to close when braking and essentially act as an exhaust brake

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpe1

call edge and ask if you get a turbo brake tune with that tow tune

I called Edge and they said I'd need to get a custom tune to get a turbo brake. To use with either their Insight CS or Insight CTS product. As far as custom tuners, I spoke with duramaxtuners.com and they suggested their Stock Trans - Stock Turbo DSP5 ECM.

From duramaxtuners.com: "Turbine breaking is only active in tow haul mode at 0 % throttle and greater than 1800 rpm."

I guess this is the way I should go. If I don't want the turbo braking I just turn off tow haul mode without losing the other features of the heavy tow tune. Humm...

with duramaxtuners efi tunes, you can have 5 different tune settings, and one of them would be the tow tune. That tow tune is independent of your tow/haul mode, and that tow tune will be what controls the turbo brake, not your truck's tow/haul mode. If you are towing something with any weight to it, I recommend you keep your truck in tow/haul mode, and if you get efi tunes, then when towing, you would also set your tuning to the tow tune. But, if you don't want to engage the turbo brake, then change your tune setting to something else. Does that make sense?

with duramaxtuners efi tunes, you can have 5 different tune settings, and one of them would be the tow tune. That tow tune is independent of your tow/haul mode, and that tow tune will be what controls the turbo brake, not your truck's tow/haul mode. If you are towing something with any weight to it, I recommend you keep your truck in tow/haul mode, and if you get efi tunes, then when towing, you would also set your tuning to the tow tune. But, if you don't want to engage the turbo brake, then change your tune setting to something else. Does that make sense?

EDIT
at the same web page there are a number of other suggested mods/products they sell. Their EGR Blocker Plate says "for off highway use only." Also they have a LBZ induction kit. "Buy this kit instead of an air intake kit" it says. Humm...

EDIT
at the same web page there are a number of other suggested mods/products they sell. Their EGR Blocker Plate says "for off highway use only." Also they have a LBZ induction kit. "Buy this kit instead of an air intake kit" it says. Humm...

The block plate is great as long as your egr cooler is not leaking coolant, and when you buy tunes tell the tuner that you want the egr shut off. Also I think any "canned" tuner such as Edge, Banks etc. gives you the option of shutting off the egr.

If you choose to do so, you can go with the LBZ induction kit. It is the LBZ mouthpiece with the parts needed to fit it to your intake, but some cutting will be required. That should take care of the breathing the truck needs to do.

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