Description:

A strange first pitch on a bolted arete is a fitting alternative to Peter Croft's original cedar groove start (5.9). Easy climbing leads to a steep headwall (5.6). Ignore the direct line, and also the alluring yet difficult crack to the right, and traverse a runout but not particularly difficult slab to an arete, and finish up the finger and crack on the other side of the arete moving right at all difficulties. Can be climbed as twolong pitches.(5.9).

did the new 10d direct start

Get you some

Where to begin, first I tryed the original start, it would'nt go due to the crack being filled with dirt, so I pendulemed over to the arette and everything went well until the last two pitches, which I led in one long one but I got lost when I traversed too far to the right and wound up in dirty 5.10 terrain, and had to do some aid climbing. I will go back some day and try to climb the actual route:)