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Chef Barney Brown has made a hotel restaurant into a destination, with intriguing East-West combinations such as the Rock, tissue-thin Wagyu beef cooked tableside on a stone; and a smoked tea-spiced chicken breast. Sushi is an attraction, but desserts can be hit-or-miss. -- Michael Bauer

Chef Barney Brown has made a hotel restaurant into a destination, with intriguing East-West combinations such as the Rock, tissue-thin Wagyu...

Barney Brown is cooking as well as ever at this restaurant in the Hotel Nikko. Now thereâs another reason to check it out: The Rrazz Room, which is located downstairs and brings in big name cabaret entertainment. You get validated parking and theyâll save a table for you in the club so you donât have to rush your meal. Best things to order: the rock, thin slices of kobe beef cooked tableside on a hot rock, the smoked black cod or the smoked duck breast. -- Michael Bauer

Anzu's space is inviting, and service is attentive, but the execution of some of the dishes isn't always sharp. New York steak and horseradish-crusted salmon were OK, but unexceptional, and a watercress pistou and potato rosette seemed dated and did little to enhance the beef. A duck confit starter was clunky, although a beet salad was refreshing. Sushi offerings seem stronger