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Monday, July 8, 2013

Quito, Equador

There are 3 independent, 'enclose stations' systems of
buses, with very few transfer stations among them. They are very inexpensive
(USD 0.25 for a single ride). These lines follow north-south-lines down through
the heart of Quito, and they have stations close to La Mariscal where most
hotels are located. Take note that there is no tradition of waiting for people
to disembark before people board, so this may take some getting used to. The
buses are among the cleanest of South America, but still, be aware of
pickpockets!

El Trole or The Trolley (Green stations, buses of different
colors) run from station La Y in the north to El Recreo in the south. Downtown,
it has the closest stations to Plaza Grande.

Metrobus (Blue stations marked with a Q, buses of different
colors) run from Universidad Central in America Avenue, next to Prensa Ave, and
then to Diego de Vasquez Ave. until Carcelen last station, this is the best bus
service for visitors who wants to visit the Mitad del Mundo Monument, because
at Ofelia station the public services buses who go to Mitad del Mundo monument
waits to make the switching and carry visitors to Mitad del Mundo, USD 0.25
until Ofelia station, USD 0.35 to Mitad del Mundo Monument.

Ecovia (Red buses and stations marked with an e) run from
Rio Coca Station (north) to La Marin Station inside the Quito historic
Downtown. Serves stations close to Casa de la Cultura and Estadio Olímpico and
Quicentro mall.

The easiest way to get to most Quito hotels from the airport
is to buy a taxi ticket, available after the baggage area before exiting the
airport. Cost to the hotels in the main tourist area is USD 5 (November 2008).
If you hail a cab just outside at the airport you can get them to use the meter
and pay less than USD 3 for a ride to La Mariscal hotel district.

For those wanting to save money and reduce their ecological
impact on Ecuador, many local buses (USD 0.25) head south to the tourist areas.
Just exit the airport and cross the main street. Buses with an
"Amazonas" or "Juan Leon Mera" sign go to La Mariscal.
Buses with a "La Marin" sign will leave you a few blocks away from
Old Town.

Plaza Grande, Quito

Taxis and buses are everywhere and very inexpensive. Taxi
drivers are known to pull weapons on tourists and steal their money, cameras, etc.
Secuestro express (express kidnapping) is a crime that increasing numbers of
taxi drivers are committing. Pickpocketing is a rare occurrence on buses and
can be avoided with common sense. A taxi ride costs a minimum of USD 1 during
the day and a minimum of USD 2 at night. Only use official taxis (yellow with a
number painted on the door). Make sure the driver turns on the taxi meter if
you don't want to get ripped off and find another taxi if they claim it's
broken (taxímetro). At night or if they refuse to, negotiate the price before
getting in, or wait for the next. Carry small denominations of money and have
exact change for your taxi fare. If you do not have exact change, taxi drivers
conveniently won't be able to make change for you and will try to convince you
to make the change a tip instead. When taking a taxi be sure you are aware of
the fastest route; if a driver is using the meter he may take the scenic route.
Most major hotels have taxis that they have approved as safe and legitimate. If
unsure about a taxi, call your hotel and they can generally have a safe taxi
dispatched to your location. A bus trip costs in Quito USD 0.25, including
Trole and Ecovía (March 2010).

The railway station is at the south end of the old city,
close to the El Trole route. The railway is very rundown and services are
erratic. It's best to check with the Visitors' Bureau on the most recent
timetable.

You can rent a car in Quito, but it's not recommended for
getting around the city. It's not worth the effort with taxis so cheap. Renting
a car is a possibility for exploring further afield, to the Cotopaxi or Otavalo
or Papallacta areas, for instance, but is only recommended for those who speak
a bit of Spanish and can handle the tension of Ecuador's 'lax' driving rules.

You can also get around by renting a Bike at Yellow Bike or
Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental. Quito offers a unique Cycle Path that goes around
the nothern part of the City, through out Av. Amazonas to Parque La Carolina.
If you rent a bike to travel around Quito we recommend you are careful and use
a helmet, it is a nice adventure and a cheap way to get around. Lizardo Garcia
512 y Almagro, La Mariscal. www.yellowbike.com.ec or Ecuador Freedom Bike
Rental Juan León Mera N22-37 (between Carrión and Veintimilla) in the Mariscal
www.FreedomBikeRental.com

The best way to stay outside and see all of Quito can be on
a scooter or motorcycle rental. Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental offers a wide range
of motorscooters and motorcycles and can fit them with a GPS. With a
self-guided GPS Tour, you can see all of the sights in the city at your own
pace and see much more than with a car, bicycle or taxi. Each rider goes
through a mini safety course on how to ride the scooter and all rentals include
insurance and helmets. Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental Juan León Mera N22-37
(between Carrión and Veintimilla) www.FreedomBikeRental.com

SEE

Conjunto monumental San Francisco. The church dates back from the
1570s and was devoted to San Francis, since the Franciscan order was the first
to settle in the area. Hence the city's official name: San Francisco de Quito.
The church contains masterpieces of syncretic art, including the famous
"Virgin of Quito" by Legarda. The sculpture represents a winged
virgin stepping on the devil's head (in the form of a serpent) and is displayed
in the main altar. The virgin would later be inaccurately replicated on top of
Panecillo hill. The museum next door to the church is arranged through the
monastic compound and includes access to the choir.

Museo del Banco
Central. Located across from the Casa de la Cultura and adjacent to the
Parque El Ejido, you'll find perhaps Ecuador's most renowned museum with
different rooms, devoted to pre-Columbian, Colonial and gold works of art,
among other topics. Some of the famous pieces include whistle bottles shaped
like animals, elaborate gold headdresses and re-created miniature scenes of
life along the Amazon. The museum is well-organized, and it takes about 3-4
hours to see everything. Entrance USD 2. Guides who speak several different
languages including English, French and Spanish are available for a small fee.
NOTE: The Banco Central also has a small exhibit downtown, across from La
Compañía church. This exhibit usually shows currency or stamps. USD 1. Casa de
la Cultura station in Ecovía bus.

Casa de la Cultura shows
a patchwork of local artists. Free entrance. Casa de la Cultura station in
Ecovía bus.

Museo de la Ciudad.
The Museo de la Ciudad is in the Old Town, on Garcia Moreno street, directly
opposite the Carmen Alto monastery. A lovely museum with two floors encircling
two quiet courtyards, the "Museo de la Ciudad" provides more of a
social history of Ecuador than other museums in Quito. Re-enacted scenes from
daily life of Ecuador's citizens through the years include a hearth scene from
a 16th-century home, a battle scene against the Spanish, and illustrations of
the building of Iglesia de San Francisco church.

Teleferico. This
is the world's second-highest cable car. It's located on the eastern flanks of
the Pichincha Volcano which overlooks the whole city. It hoists visitors up to
an amazing 4,000 meters (12,000 feet). On clear days, one can spot half-a-dozen
volcanoes and spy the entire city below. You can also hike up from here to the
Guagua Pichincha Volcano, which is active. See Teleferiqo website for details
[11]. It is $4 for locals, but $8.50 (as of 3/15/2011) for foreigners. There is
also an express lane option for more money. Get a taxi to take you to the
teleferico.

Botanical Gardens.
The Jardin Botanico is located on the southwest side of Parque La Carolina.
It's a wonderful escape from the city, with all of Ecuador's ecosystems
represented with a wide variety of flora. You can take a guided tour or just
wander. The highlight for many people are the two glassed-in orchidariums.

Museo Mindalae.
An extremely original project in the north part of the Mariscal District, this
museum provides an 'ethno-historical' view of Ecuador's amazingly rich cultural
diversity. You can find out about the country's different peoples, from the
coast to the Andes to the Amazon, and their crafts in a specially-built and
designed structure. The museum has a restaurant for lunch, a cafe and a
fair-trade shop.

Itchimbia cultural
complex and park. This hill lies to the east of the Old Town. It provides
stunning views of central and northern Quito, as well as the distant peak of
Cayambe to the northeast. The hillside was was made into a park and an
impressive cultural centre established here in 2005. The centre holds temporary
exhibitions. At the weekends, there are workshops and fun for children. A
restaurant, Pim's, opened at the complex in June 2007. The complex closes at 6
pm. Once it closes, you can head to the nearby Cafe Mosaico to watch the sunset
until about 7 pm. It's a great spot to watch the fading of the light on the
mountainside with the floodlights of the Old Town's churches.

Museo Guayasamin This
musueum houses the collection of Ecuador's most renowned contemporary artists,
Oswaldo Guayasamin. It has a fine collection of pre-Colombian, colonial and
independence art, as well as housing many of the artist's works. You can also
visit the nearby Chapel of Man (Capilla del Hombre) which was built
posthumously to house some of Guayasamin's vast canvasses on the condition of
Latin American Man.

Calle de la Ronda.
This street in the Old Town was restored by Municipality and FONSAL in 2007. It
was transformed with the help and cooperation of the local residents. It's a
romantic cobbled street just off the Plaza Santo Domingo (or it can be reached
via Garcia Moreno by the City Museum). There are shops, patios, art galleries
and modest cafe restaurants now, all run by residents. Cultural events are
common at the weekends.

La Vírgen del
Panecillo. Adjacent to the Old City, El Panecillo is a large hill on top of
which is La Virgin del Panecillo, a large statue of the 'winged' Virgin Mary.
She can be seen from most points in the city. Local legend has it that she is
the only virgin in Quito. Never walk up the hill, always take a taxi or a bus
as the walk up can be dangerous.

Mitad del Mundo.
Just outside of Quito is where the measurements were first made that proved
that the shape of the Earth is in fact an oblate spheroid. Commemorating this
is a large monument that straddles the equator called Mitad del Mundo or middle
of the world. Note, however, that the true equator is not at the Mitad del
Mundo monument. Through the magic of GPS technology, we now know that it is
only 240 meters away -- right where the Indians said it was before the French
came along and built the monument in the wrong place. The entrance for the park
is $2 (included entrance to small museums). For some of the attractions you
have to pay extra.

The Intiñan Solar
Museum is right next to the Mitad del Mundo monument on the other side of
the north fence. For $4 you can have a tour of this little museum. Note that
they don't demonstrate the Coriolis
effect but rather deceive you (ask for repeating the experiment on your own
and they will deny it). Other "experiments" showing effects that
apparently only occur on the equator are also scam. The tour is completed by
some untrue facts about indigenous cultures in Ecuador and is just straining
after effect. The place looks like a total dump and is at the end of a dirt
road, but for some people it is much more interesting and informative than the
Mitad del Mundo. When you go to the middle of the world, you can just take a
bus ($0.40) straight there, or go with a tour, or hire a taxi driver by the
hour. The hourly rate should be in the $12 or less range. Buses leave from the
Occidental or Av. America for $0.40 and have "Mitad del Mundo"
clearly written large on the front. This is the most economical option and
tours of the Intiñan Solar Museum are $4. Entry to the monument nearby is $2,
but only worth it for a photo straddling the equator - which you can do at the
'real' equator nearby at Intiñan.

Iglesia de la
Compañia de Jesus. In the Old City, this church is regarded by many as the
most beautiful in the Americas. Partially destroyed by fire, it was restored
with assistance from the Getty Foundation and other benefactors. Stunning.

DO

Calle Olmedo in
the old town of Quito

Explore the Old Town
With its gorgeous mixture of colonial and republican/independence era
architecture (Late 1500's to 1800's), relaxing plazas and a stunning number of
churches. If you happen to be there during Christmas or Easter, you'll be
amazed at the number of events, masses, and processions that bring out the
crowds. You'll find craft shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels across its grid
of streets.

A recommended walking
tour that could enhance your vision of the Historic Center is as follows. Take
the trolley (watch your belongings) south until "Cumanda" stop. Get
down, you are on Maldonado street. There you will have an impressive view of
what once was the "Jerusalem" ravine, which stands between Panecillo
and the core. Walk north past the trolley stop and go down a narrow stairway
that brings you to La Ronda street, of Pre-columbian origins. Walk up
picturesque La Ronda until you reach Av. 24 de Mayo. This boulevard was built
on top of this section of Jerusalem ravine to connect the two sides of town. On
Garcia Moreno Street turn north and you will arrive to the Museo de la Ciudad,
which provides an easy and interactive history of Quito. Then walk on Garcia
Moreno street until Sucre, which is a pedestrian street. La Compania is at the
corner and if you go up Sucre street you will reach San Francisco. If you
continue on Garcia Moreno you will reach the Main (independence) Square. If you
go to San Francisco, then walk to La Merced and down to the Main Square. This
itinerary follows a chronological and logical sequence of sites. Most people do
it backwards, turning La Ronda and Museo de la Ciudad as distant points where
you're usually worn out by the time you get there. In any event, the Historic
Center is so vast that you need more than one visit to see it all. The
recommended walk provides you with a good overview if you're short of time or
want to see as much as possible on a first day.

Watch The old men
play Ecuador's version of bocce at Parque El Ejido. You can also see some
serious games of Ecua-volley, the local version of volleyball, on a Saturday or
Sunday.

The Middle ofthe World 45 mins from the capital
Quito, you can go to see the Monument to the middle of the World. It's a big
monument with many events and things to do. For example, national indigineous
music groups play different songs of their culture. There are museums with the
history of the 0 latitud and history of Quito as well. There are many unique
artworks and once you are there you can even weight your self and you will find
out how you weigh less on the equator.

Bicycle Ride the
Ciclopaseo takes place every Sunday. 30 kilometres (20 miles) of roads
running north-south through the city are completely closed to traffic. People
cycle, run and blade the route. Up to 30,000 people take part. Several bike
shops rent bikes for visitors to be able to take part.

Cable Car There
is a cable car ride up the side of Ruco
Pichina. It's called "Teleferico" in spanish. Ask your hotel
about the special buses that run through the city taking people towards this
destination. You can also find your own way there through taxi or bus.

Go Mountain Biking
(Flying Dutchman mountain biking tours), Foch E4-313 (corner of JL Mera, in La
Meriscal), ☎ (02) 2568 323. There are many outfits offering one- to
multi-day mountain biking trips to the surrounding volcanos, lakes, and
valleys. Biking Dutchman is one of the oldest and most well-regarded.

Equinox Spanish School: Located on Calle
Yánez Pinzón N25-106 y Colón, in the Mariscal district. Equinox is the 2nd
oldest school in Quito and hosts study abroad programs from universities and a
very large amount of foreign students who want to learn Spanish. The prices are
affordable and extremely personable.

Green Horse Ranch,
Quito, Ecuador. The Pululahua Crater is one of the most amazing places to ride,
but chances are you will not find anything about it in your guide book. Astrid,
the owner of the ranch who moved to Ecuador from Germany about 15 years ago,
will pick you up in Quito and bring you to the ranch (about 45 minute drive).
Rides of various lengths are available and she has a wide variety of horses
ready for novices and experts. Her and her staff are incredibly friendly and
everything is included in the price.

Buy

There are lots of artisans working on unique crafts in the
capital. These include guitar-makers, candle makers, tanners and
leather-workers, silversmiths, ceramicists and woodcarvers. You can find them
at their workshops, published in a guide by the Visitors' Bureau.

There are also several fair-trade shops in Quito which
promise to pay the craftspeople fairly for their products. The ones at the
Tianguez (Plaza San Francisco), El Quinde (Plaza Grande), and Museo Mindalae
are all very good.

There are many shopping malls in Quito such as Quicentro,
Mall el Jardin, CCI, CC. El Bosque, Megamaxi, Ventura Mall, Ciudad Comercial el
Recreo, San Luis, etc. and every street corner has several small "Mom and
Pop" shops or stands where only a couple of items are for sale. If your
shopping list is very long, you may spend all day looking around for the stores
that have the items on your list.

There are many casual wear stores like MNG, Benetton,
Lacoste, Guess, Fossil, Bohno,Diesel etc. So if you need some items Quito is in
fact a very good place to buy nice clothes at relatively low prices.

Ecuador's indigenous peoples include many highly skilled
weavers. Almost everyone who goes to Ecuador sooner or later purchases a
sweater, scarf or tapestry. In Quito vendors are found along the sidewalks of
more touristy neighborhoods. You should also consider travelling directly to
some of the artisen markets, such as the famous one in Otavalo. If you haven't
got time for Otavalo, you can find virtually the same gear at the market on
Jorge Washington and Juan Leon Mera in the Mariscal district. The Mariscal is
replete with dozens of souvenir, craft and T-shirt stores which make shopping
for a gift very easy.

Zapytal, Foch E4-298
v Av Amazonas, ☎ 528 757. Hand made shoes. A wide selection in stock plus made to
measure if you have 8 days to spare. A selection of correspondant
(spectator shoes), riding boots and womens shoes $80

You name it, and it's available in Quito. Restaurants range
from the basic places offering chicken and rice for $1.50 to international food
with very expensive prices. The country benefits from all worlds, with a
variety of dishes inspired by both coastal and Andean produce. Seafood and fish
is fresh and delicious, while meats, particularly pork, are excellent. These
combine with typical ingredients such as potatoes, plantains and all sorts of
tropical and Andean fruits.

A good area to head to for eating out is the Plaza El Quinde (or Foch) which is
in the Mariscal district at Foch y Reina Victoria. There are dozens of
restaurants and eateries all around this area. La Floresta, up the hill from
the Mariscal around 12 de Octubre, also has many fine restaurants. The La
Floresta traffic circle turns into an evening market after 5 pm and the most
popular dish served is tripa mishqui (grilled beef or pork intestines).

Churrasco is a a
great Ecuadorian version of a Brazilian dish. Tallarin is a popular noodle dish
mixed with chicken or beef. Chinese restaurants are known as "Chifas"
and are very abundant. Chaulafan is the local term for fried-rice, a very
popular dish. Cebiche (also spelled ceviche) is a very popular dish in which
clams or shrimp are marinated in a broth. Worth trying, but look for a well
known restaurant with many locals to be sure you are getting fresh seafood.

When buying from lower-priced restaurants or shops, if you
only have bills larger than a $5, it's a good idea to get them changed at a
bank first.

Pim's,. A
Ecuadorian Franchise. They have 4 locals, Panecillo, Cumbaya, Itchimbia and
Isabel La Catolica (next to the Swissotel).

Restaurante
Vegetariano, Salinas, near the intersection with Riofrio. Vegetarian
almuerzos for $2. Juice, soups, snacks, soya milk, vegy steaks etc. Good vegy
food, in a very clean environment. They also sell powdered soya milk, and a few
dietary supplements.

Mongos, Mongolian Grill. Calama 469 y Juan Leon
Mera, in the heart of trendy gringolandia new town. All your can eat buffets
(vegetarian $3.99, with meats $5.99. Includes salad or soup entre, and one free
drink. Great quality meat.

Mulligan's,
Calama E5-44 y Juan Leon Mera (La Mariscal), ☎ 223-6844,
[23]. Need a break from all the new tastes, get a taste and comfort from
home. This American style Sports Bar has great food and you can watch all your
favorite sports on TV.

There are several Ecuadorian brands of beer, but the most
prevalent throughout the country is Pilsener.However if you are looking for a
better quality beer the "Club" in the green bottle is recommended.
There are also some alcoholic drinks which can only be found in Quito like
Mistelas, etc.

Sport Planet, Av.
America y Naciones Unidas, ☎ 593 2 267 790. Located on the 3rd floor
of "Plaza de las Americas". Is the Ecuadorian version of Hollywood
Planet. The night sky of northen Quito is incredible and the food is
great.

Turtle's Head, La
Niña 626 y Amazonas, ☎ 593-2-256-5544. An english pub style bar
that often has live music in the later hours. They have their own brews along
with other popular beers. They also have pool tables, foosball, darts
etc. As of June 2010 Turtle's Head is also open in the nearby valley of
Cumbaya, located in the main plaza across from the church.

Q
bar+restaurant+lounge, Plaza Foch, La Mariscal, ☎ [+593 2]
255 7840, [27]. A very elegant lounge style bar. It's located on Foch
Plaza so you have access to an even wider options nearby.

Sutra, J Calama
380, Mariscal Sucre. A great place to have some drinks and have a chat, or just
to pass the time. Is just above "no bar"

El pobre Diablo,
Isabel La Católica E12-06 y Galavis esq. La Floresta, ☎ telef:
(593) 02 2235194 / 2225397 / 099216290. Is one of the oldest cafe-bars in
Quito. Almost every week there are some kind of cultural activity or a live
concert. The food and the drinks are moderately priced. The "Vino
caliente" and "canelazo" are recommended.

The Magic Bean, Foch # 681 E5-08 y Juan
Leon Mera, ☎ 03 593 2 2566 181. a good menu, excellent quality and big
portions, a good "backpacker" vibe to the restaurant and
english speaking staff, good juices, the only down sides are that it´s a bit
pricey, and the service can be very slow.

Zazu, Mariano Aguilera 331 & La Pradera, ☎ [593 2] 254 3559. Upscale restarant well worth the visit. Urban
chic meets Quito, and the result is a very comfortable setting with outstanding
cuisine and top notch service. Great wine list too. Located near the JW
Marriott.

República del Cacao,
corner of Reina Victoria y J. Pinto. A nice place to have a cup of delicious
hot chocolate. They also offer coffee, cookies and souvenirs (e.g. chocolate
and cool t-shirts).

Dance Clubs

La Mariscal offers tons of places for dancing or just
drinks.

Varadero - Reina Victoria 1751 and La Pinta; Small, local
and super sweaty, this bar-restaurant packs in the crowds for high-energy live
Cuban music. Small cover to get in and drinks are moderately expensive.

El Aguijon - A favorite of locals and tourist, if you like
ska, new punk and all kinds of alternative rock music this is the place for
you, this is the best place in the city for you to hear the fusion between
Ecuadorian and Latin rhythms like salsa, meringue vallenatos, cumbias, etc. and
reggae, trip hop, trance, skapunk etc. Located in the Mariscal District.

"Seseribo" - Famous for being the first Salsoteca
in Quito. Ave. Veintimilla & 12 de Octubre Bdg. El Girón (basement). They
play tropical beats here and on wednesdays they have live salsa. The club also
functions as a cultural space for live Caribbean Music, art expositions and
book presentations.

Blooms - Walking
distance from Reina Victoria. It's more of beer pub than anything else, a nice
place to start the night.

Bungalow 6 - Located at Calama street - Place for
"gringos" to mingle with the locals. It's an overall fun place to go
- Wednesdays Ladies Night are the best day to go, definitley.

No Bar - One of the oldest places in Quito. Located at
Calama steet and Juan Leon Mera.

Outside of La Mariscal are other clubs that are more famous
among locals.

Discoteca Blues Av.Republica - a popular late night
electronica/rock club.

2 comments:

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