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Kodak "Cattle Prod"

I previously had a slideshow showing my Kodak "Cattle Prod". And, well, here are the instructions on how to make your very own Kodak Cattle Prod.

PLEASE!!! Do not shock people with this device without consent. You never know who has a pacemaker.

I am trying out a new method to make my instructables "less confusing". I am listing every little step as a separate step, instead of combining them all. Please let me know how you like this method, or if I should use my old method.

Don't forget to rate it if you like it, and visit my other achievements.

And If you have trouble understanding the camera modification, or for reference, refer to this tazer instructable.

Step 2: Insulate Your Altoid Tin

In order for the charge not to reach the metal case, you need to insulate it with duct tape. Take strips of duct tape and line the bottom and top.

Step 3: Poke Two Holes in Your Tin

You need to poke holes in the tin for the wires to exit. Make one in the bottom and side (in the front of the can) with a knife (not recommended), or a drill (recommended). Make them big enough for two wires to fit easily through them.

Step 4: Optional: Spray Paint Tin

If you feel the desire to paint your tin, you want to do it now. I used a can of white spray paint with several coats. OUTSIDE, with proper venthilation.

Step 5: Remove the Shell From the Camera

Pop off all the little latches on the outside of the camera and remove the outside shell. Remove the battery. Remove any charge in the capacitor by touching the two ends of the capacitor with a knife or screwdriver.

Step 6: Pop Out the Circuit

Pull the circuit from the camera, it should come out easily.

Step 7: Remove the Capacitor

The position of the capacitor generally does not allow the chip to fit inside an Altoid Tin. Simply desolder the capacitor from the chip, cut off the metal parts that are sticking out (these too will not allow it to fit inside the tin), and solder two 1" to 1.5" wires to the capacitor, and solder the wires back where the capacitor was. Basically, we are lengthening the connection of the capacitor.

Step 8: Pop the Button

There is a button that you usually press to activate the flash. It is attached by a sticker. Peel the sticker and the button off.

Step 9: Solder Wires to Button

Solder two 5" to 6" wires to the button "aftermath" as shown. (It's kind of hard to explain with words)

Step 10: Cut Wires for Tube

You will need a set of wires that run down the entire length of PVC tube. Cut two wires that are the length of the tube, with an extra five or so inches. Wire Length = Tube Length + 5"

Step 11: Attach Long Wires to Capacitor

You need to solder the wires to the ends of the capacitor, one on each end.

Step 12: Put Hole in PVC

Attach your PVC tube and right angle thing together, like it is a "gun". Then drill/melt/cut a hole in the PVC tube where the right angle thing ends. The hole needs to be big enough for two wires to fit through.

Step 13: Put Chip in Tin

Put your chip inside the tin, with the battery holder facing upward. Put the wires soldered to the capacitor through the bottom, and the wires soldered to the button throught the hole in the side. You can hotglue the chip inside the tin if you like, but I don't see a need.

Step 14: Solder on the Bump Switch

Solder the wires attached to the button (the ones coming out of the side, not the bottom) to the bump switch.

Step 15: Run the Long Wires Down the Tube

Insert the long wires into the hole on the side of the tube. Then run them down all the way to the bottom.

Step 16: Glue Tin to Device

Make sure the tin is flat on the tube, and hotglue it into place.

Step 17: Hot Glue Bumpswitch

Hotglue the bumpswitch into place, so it can be pushed with your thumb to charge the capacitor.

Step 18: Cut Cardboard Circle

Cut out a carboard circle using the tube as a stencil. Then poke two holes into the cardboard, about two centimeters apart. Do not make the holes too big, just big enough to fit a wire through.

Step 19: Poke Wires Through Cardboard

Strip the ends of the long wires going through the tube, and poke the exposed wire through the cardboard. Then hotglue the back of the cardboard, securing the wires in place. Then apply globs of solder to the exposed wires.

Step 20: Hotglue Cardboard Circle to Tube

Apply a thin line of hotglue around the back of the cardboard, and place the tube on top of it, pushing the remaining wire in the tube.

Step 21: Fin.

Now your "cattle prod" is complete. To test, depress the button for a few seconds, then touch something that conducts electricity.

Thank you for reading my instructable. If you have any problems, concerns, or questions, please leave a comment or send me a Private Message. All input is greatly appreciated.

CAUTION: Do not shock people without their consent. You never know who has a pacemaker.

If you liked this instructable, please check out some of my other work. Here's a link.

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40 Discussions

Like omaramr I would like to know about the battery. Does it need one? And thanks to John Mitchel, I have another question,(questions actually) ... Would the attachment to the flash part work? And what part will light up to show it is charged? And (again) isn't there some part of the camera that already has a push switch? Or what is a push switch?

Thanks for any answers you can give, it IS a nice instructable and I want to make one for my daughter for when she goes hiking or bike riding. Too many wild dogs in her area.

I'm looking for something like this as a dog-zapper, to deter the many aggressive dogs roaming the streets, when my wife walks. Just want a short tube that can be switched on and off easily on the handle while walking. Don't want anything that looks like a gun : )) Would this do the job or is there another design more suitable?

The circuit should work fine for a dog deterrent. Just don't use the tube handle. The Altoids tin houses all the crucial pieces. All you need to do is to add ducked tape on the outside and move the long wires there. I would also recommend not using a bump switch. It is fine for the cattle prod, but could be pressed accidentally in a bag or pocket. Try using a toggle switch. Also don't assume that just because it sparked once the capacitor is fully discharged. Touch it to a metal object a couple of times to make sure. These things hurt quite a bit if you get shocked so be careful!

This is a good start. I have a few thoughts, if you decide to make another...
Step 1: The "right angle PVC thing" is a 90' elbow. I believe 45' elbows are also available.
Step 4: Why not paint the tin and PVC all the same color? It might give it a cleaner look.
Step 7: What is the purpose of lengthening the connections to the capacitor?
Step 11: Why connect the wires to the capacitor connections rather than the flash connections? It might also help to remove the flash as it may draw some of the charge away from your wires to the other end. If you added a switch connected to the trigger for the flash then you would have more control over when it discharges. Though if you want it to simply discharge on contact then the way you have it is good.
Step 17: You might get a cleaner look if you ran the wires to the switch inside the PVC, though that might make it more difficult to put together. You might also consider moving the light that indicates when it is charged somewhere you can see it.
Step 18 - 20: Have you considered using a PVC end cap and PVC cement rather than cardboard and hot-glue?
I have been considering building something similar. Your instructable has helped me figure out some of the details. Thanks for sharing.