Rustproofing and undercoating. Don’t bother. Today’s vehicles are manufactured with good corrosion protection. In fact, Consumer Reports’ Annual Auto Surveys show that rust problems have almost vanished in modern vehicles. Standard rust-through warranties for most domestic and imported vehicles run five years or more, and many will cover you for an unlimited number of miles during the warranty period.

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I am in Toronto and have my cars rust proofed by Krown every year. I would recommend it. My friends don't do it and their cars start rusting after 5-6 years. It is a good investment if you plan to keep your X past 6 years

I agree.
My logic is if you plan on keeping your car upto 10 years (like I do) and rustproof every other year (I personally don't think you need it every year) then thats 5x $100 = $500 for 10 years worth or protection.

Small price to pay to ensure that your X is rustfree for (at least) the first 10 years.

There's no way if you don't rustproof that any bodyshop will do any form of rust repairs and paint for only $500. Not to mention, your paint will still be original when you go to sell it, barring any accidents.

If your in Canada use Krown rustproof unlike some other rustproof products, it doesn't deteriorate rubber boots, and door seals...

Nope,
I don't work for Krown, just a satisfied customer that believes in giving credit where credit is due.

My logic is if you plan on keeping your car upto 10 years (like I do) and rustproof every other year (I personally don't think you need it every year) then thats 5x $100 = $500 for 10 years worth or protection.

Small price to pay to ensure that your X is rustfree for (at least) the first 10 years.

And if your MDX stays rustfree for ten years without rustproofing - as it's very likely to do* - then you just wasted $500. Doesn't make much sense to me.

But hey, it's your money, you can do whatever you like with it - you can spend it on something you don't need, or even burn it if you like!

*There are a lot of ten-year-old MDX's out there. When's the last time you saw one that had a lot of rust on it? I don't recall ever seeing a single one - and I live in an area with severe winters and lots of road salt!

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And if your MDX stays rustfree for ten years without rustproofing - as it's very likely to do* - then you just wasted $500. Doesn't make much sense to me.

But hey, it's your money, you can do whatever you like with it - you can spend it on something you don't need, or even burn it if you like!

*There are a lot of ten-year-old MDX's out there. When's the last time you saw one that had a lot of rust on it? I don't recall ever seeing a single one - and I live in an area with severe winters and lots of road salt!

In my area If you look at ads for used cars (about 10 years old), most of them have some rust. May be X is built better

Cars that have been flooded are usually totaled. And that includes plenty that were totaled by Hurricane Sandy.

(Allstate just announced $1 billion in catastrophe losses in October, mostly from Sandy, and noted that autos accounted for 40 percent of the losses. Ref)

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Some fresh water flood cars can be saved if the water wasn't too deep, but virtually all salt water flood cars are totalled. Even if you can get the car running and dried out today, nobody knows what the salt will do to wiring and computer modules a week, a month, or even a year down the road.

In NY and probably in other states, a flooded car must be labeled as such on the salvage paperwork, and on any title that may subsequently be issued.

I'm retired from Allstate. I spoke to a friend of mine who works in their total loss unit on LI. As of last week they had about 18,000 cars that needed to be picked up.

A salvage car can be sold. In NY a salvage certificate is issued to replace the title. If the car is rebuilt it needs to go through a state inspection. This is not the annual inspection everyone does at a gas station.

The DMV checks the vehicle for safety and stolen parts. More than one person went in for inspection and left in cuffs.

If the car passes a new title is issued, branded "Reconstructed Salvage". If it was a flood car, that is also indicated on the title.

I agree.
My logic is if you plan on keeping your car upto 10 years (like I do) and rustproof every other year (I personally don't think you need it every year) then thats 5x $100 = $500 for 10 years worth or protection.

I used RustCheck ( a competitor to Krown ) every other year for 4 applications on my last vehicle and it had no viable rust after 11 years - except for around where they drilled holes in the driver's door sill, go figure.

My logic was similar to yours + the assumption that any rust that appeared would probably be exempted by the "inside-out" rust clause, so why pay every year to keep a warranty that was probably not useful.

I think I'll do the same for my X, but not have them drill any holes this time. Maybe they'll do it for less since it won't be as labour intensive.

I used RustCheck ( a competitor to Krown ) every other year for 4 applications on my last vehicle and it had no viable rust after 11 years - except for around where they drilled holes in the driver's door sill, go figure.

My logic was similar to yours + the assumption that any rust that appeared would probably be exempted by the "inside-out" rust clause, so why pay every year to keep a warranty that was probably not useful.

I think I'll do the same for my X, but not have them drill any holes this time. Maybe they'll do it for less since it won't be as labour intensive.

Hey leaffan, I'm a habsfan by the way.. hehe
I would suggest you check the area around the drain holes in the tailgate where the rustcheck product tends to drip over time. On my Pathfinder the rubber seal on the tailgate was completely deformed and almost deteriorating due to the Rustcheck product damaging the seal.

There should be enough areas on a new car that Krown can get their product into, even if it means pulling the rubber plugs in the doorframes and tailgate, I suspect the door shells can be accessed via the drain holes with a straw and can of Krown's T40 product.

As for salvaged vehicles, yes, it is legal in Canada to sell a vehicle which has been previously written off by an insurance company, provided that it been sold as a rebranded (salvaged) vehicle and the buyer agrees to the condition.

Hey leaffan, I'm a habsfan by the way.. hehe
I would suggest you check the area around the drain holes in the tailgate where the rustcheck product tends to drip over time. On my Pathfinder the rubber seal on the tailgate was completely deformed and almost deteriorating due to the Rustcheck product damaging the seal.

There should be enough areas on a new car that Krown can get their product into, even if it means pulling the rubber plugs in the doorframes and tailgate, I suspect the door shells can be accessed via the drain holes with a straw and can of Krown's T40 product.

As for salvaged vehicles, yes, it is legal in Canada to sell a vehicle which has been previously written off by an insurance company, provided that it been sold as a rebranded (salvaged) vehicle and the buyer agrees to the condition.

The seals at the bottom of my doors started to sag just after 2 applications (it's a 2009 and noticed it in 2011). I'm going to go every 2 years from now on.

I live in upstate NY and drive my vehicles to 150k-200k miles (10-15 years of age). I don't rust proof and have never had a rust problem going back to an '87 Jetta. I don't wash religiously during the winter. I've only had a Japanese vehicle up to 160k miles though - there is no question that they ues lighter sheet metal, but that car (Mazda) had zero rust.

I think it is a waste of money to pay for rust proofing, but if the ice melt in other areas is more corrosive than road salt that we use in NY, I might change my view.

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