veekyforums.com/thread/17688818/carsThank you. I think I'm gonna just start tearing shit down. Well, first I'm gonna lap the valves on the new heads, then I'm gonna take the intake off the motor and try to tackle all the issues at the same time (misfire, coolant leak, wanting to upgrade to HO heads/cam/intake etc)

Managed to get the cluster and column remounted today but snapped a cable trying to reinstall the heater controls, also have to wait on finishing the carpet and doing the seats until i get new belts delivered.

Went wheeling with my dad last weekend in his 1979 J54. Like a CJ3B, but a little spiffier. Needs minor clutch work, but other than that runs beautifully. Always worried about something major breaking and being SOL for parts.

Geting must stuff from dearborn/macs, sometimes summit. She will be golden here soon, at least for a while. I'am also east bay, Fairfield. I mean she will still look like a rat rod, but I will hopefully get her primed some time later this year.

Yeah, its the basic sedan, not the futura like yours. Dearborn and macs are both subcompanies of Ecklers, i got the steering wheel/ring by ordering the dearborn part number from the macs page.When i bought the car it had the same wheel as yours but with a plain horn button in the center.

went to see a 69 Buick GSseller said it was a nice condition daily driverliterally riddled with mouse feces and urinecould not sit in it for more than a minute without feeling sickwhile checking for rust accidentally touched a mouse carcass

Would it be possible to get rid of this horrendous smell or would I need to gut the interior? Already needs a new headliner and carpet for sure.

you can get it to go away but its going to be a long slow process. and some hints may come back on hot days.you can try the easy route of cleaning and washing everything you can then go to the pet store and get a couple bottles of enzymatic spray for carpet.its specifically made to break down and get rid of the smell of urine.

Thought she looked a little naked, nice to see another 4 door tho, everyone where I live has the 2 doors models, expect for 3 guys which have 4 doors, but only me and 1 other have 4 door futuras models. Funny thing is is that vin says she was made in New Jersey, and that means she some how made her way cross country in the 60s, other wise she wouldn't have calis 60s plates. And on the keys theres what looks like a base number for where the vet was stationed in Vietnam, and a veteran association tag, from ohio. Wish this car could speak, would have story for the ages I bet.

for anyone who has had their car painted/ had body work done professionally around how much does it cost? i know every car is different and w/e but ive got this big ass car that needs all new paint and some body work done and i have no idea how much its going to cost. i havent gone anywhere to get an estimate either

This is just what I've heard, but I think in general a paint job runs a few thousand. A hundred or two per dent, depending on how big it is. My car needs paint badly but I'm probably going to take a crack at it myself

V8 (dunno the exact model, but it's definitely been ducked with because it has a bunch of shit that looks different and some stuff alluding to having been a drag racing car)All the windows are included, the thing starts, the electrical stuff looks good.

I have access to a full shop of car repair shit, and friends to walk my retarded ass through when google won't help me.

I found it with plans of being a dd/ family cruiser so it def had to be a 4 door. Was a 1 family car, built in san jose, sold in Concord, ended up back here in hayward with the grandkids of original owner and i picked it off craigslist last april.

It dosent have dents or anything but it used to have a vinyl top some time ago and has since been removed and the holes from whatever was keeping it on are still there. Some of them were shittily bondo-d over but there are some that aren't. There are some other small problems but that's the bulk of the body work

previous owner rattle canned it for like less than $100. I'd love to re paint it but I don't want to drive a birdless firebird since the decals are expensive as fuck. Made the jump from guns to cars too. If you've had any experience with gunsmithing none of this will really be that new and if you need anything feel free to ask we'd be glad to give advice and help you out. I have a buddy that's really into farlanes, what year is yours?

I had a 1953. If its as solid as it looks, then thats a pretty good deal for one that nice. Just a heads up, that thing is an around town kinda car. Maybe on the highway if youre ok witg pushing it ay 60mph. Super easy to work on, rockauto has majority of parts for it. You'll have to special order tires. Comfy as fuck though.

beautiful.. Do it. There was a 55 Chevy or something similar for sale in my area, swapped in small block with 4 on the floor for sale for 8k a couple years ago. Never went to check it out, still regret it

So on unibody cars like your fairlane or my Trans am the frame is 2 pieces meaning that the middle of the car isn't supported. In short they tie the front and rear frame together stiffen up the car to make sure it won't twist or bend.

Gotcha...so, in theory, if I found a replacement back or front half I could probably get rid of a lot of the rust and have a solid place to mount floor pans without welding a whole new fucking floor in the damn thing?

sorta kinda, The frame is probably good okay as long as you can't stick your finger through it. The frame doesn't really touch the floor plus there's usually a cross member for the floor and it's usually on the body. You'd be better off cutting the rust out and fabricated or buying new floor plans. They literally make new trunk floors and footwells that you can weld in. If it's just holes you can patch it but if it's really gone you'll have to do that.

Quite vivid, luckily for you these old cars really only had bench seats, headliner, door panels, and carpet that would deteriorate. As long as the dash and sail panels aren't cracked too bad they'll clean up. They make literally everything you need to finish the interior in that car especially since it was a fairly popular ferd. If you don't have access to a sandblaster and if it's just surface rust you can sand her down and por-15 it unless it's really bad.

Honestly, the upholstery is gone.The dash is there, but the upholstery and seats were sitting about thirty feet away from the car around the corner of the building it was sitting next to.

I can salvage the metal from the seats (mounting brackets, etc.) and I have a sandblasting cabinet, but I'll need to ask a buddy of mine about a sandblaster.Otherwise it's gonna be a load of time in just sanding the damn thing.

As for the upholstery, it was vinyl to begin with and someone diamond stitched(?) over it. The second layer didn't stand up to the years very well.

I finally sold this rusty '82 280zx on Saturday. A couple of Mexicans drove 5 hours to buy it. Since they lived on the border it may very well be going down to Mexico. Although, they did care a lot about the title and waiting a copy of my driver's license so who knows.

Yes you can, should you, no. It'll just be hard, people do it with mustangs all the time but you'd have to find a fastback car to get everything you'll need. Anyway, you can get some cheap "speed seats" like I have for like $30 so you can test drive it and cruise around while you're fixing stuff. Re upholstering stuff is expensive as fuck, I'm trying to track down seats for my 79 that are worth saving and the metal alone is more than aftermarket ones that are better in like every way. But since you have benches I'd get those upholstered because it's like driving on a couch and there is nothing like cruising with your girl that's sitting in the middle seat! lol Pic related are those seats, sorry about the dirty ass floor black carpet and the fact that it was my DD makes for a super dirty carpet.

Welp... this kills the man... found out my syncros are donezo in the camaro. The tech said the damage is already done, and if it drives fine, ill just have to put up with the noise.

My options are A) replace sycros for 1-3. B) Have a total rebuild. C) Find another 4spd. What should i do? How much do you think each would cost? I live in Mobile Al btw.

On another note, found out the carb is running rich, and maybe the engine burns a little oil. Idk if its the gas or oil i see puff out the exhaust.

I did order intake manifold gaskets, only to realize its leaking out the timing chain, so thats gonna be a fun job. Thank god for a huge engine bay.

Dont regret my purchace, but granted i havent calculated my mpg yet either. Good news is i was able to jew my apartment complex for an extra parking pass, so now shes right outside! And under a car cover!

I havent decided on a paint scheme, but im thinking of painting the bumpers black. Thoughs?

Man... I've been so patient with the glass guy. I finally get my car... New battery is dead. They left the key in the accessory position. I told them disconnect it if they're not sure, there's a switch. So I tell the owner he should replace my battery... he gets in my face and says I'm always causing trouble... This is the guy who I hand delivered parts to because I called him once a week for 3 weeks because he was still "looking for the parts." Now he has to nerve to say I'm always making "special requests." He's had the car for a month.

gets in my face, puts his forehead to mine"what do you think you're doing""making sure you understand"toughguyboomerasshole.jpgpush him offREEE DONT TOUCH MEputs me in a headlock and throws me into the streetcalls copsapparently it's ok to manhandle me because it's my propertyI've never been so disrespected in my life. I had to get my buddy to bring a new battery by

She ain't nearly as bad as I thought she was. Hell, the engine bay looks really good! Kinda curious if it was a restoration and they stopped there. Just weld in a new floor pan see how thin the passenger side is if need be cut that one out and weld in another one there. Sand blast it, undercoat it, and you'll have a nice looking project car! Did you say it ran and drove? Also it appears you're missing a radiator. Other than that she look real good.

Like the other user said, figure out what tranny is in it. I would not paint the bumpers black, I've seen it done and it just looks really bad. Plus no one kept the 74-76 cars so embrace the really niche year of fbodys lol Also what carb are you running, if it's a holley I can help you out but I'm a little rusty on the edelbrocks and the quadrajets.

White is usually coolant, yeah. As in head gasket bullshit. Check for signs of head gasket leaks (under oil cap, radiator cap, tailpipe, etc) and maybe do a compression test. If it comes down to it, pull a head or two and do the gasket. Don't be intimidated by it

What's the point, he's just going to retort with what an aggressive, horrible customer I am. I mean, I might do it anyway

I had already paid when I went outside to start my car and it was totally dead. Cops were called and naturally the boomer customers sided with the boomer business owner, who no one saw chew me out apparently. Mechanic buddy rescued me, took my battery to his shop and brought it back to life with another battery twice the amps, did it as a friend no charge, so I'm not out anything except my ego. I just hope the guy feels like shit

His name is Rodney at freddy's glass in Waco if you feel like blasting him with a made up story no one can prove didn't happen, lol

Well coolant cap is clean (little brown, but i think thats rust cause its all water with stuff floating in it, not a slurry) Cant check oil cap due it just being a breather on the valve cover, guess i can drain the oil and hope for the best.

If its in good condition i might be willing to talk trade. I have a c4 i think is from a 68 or 69 mustang that p.o. put in but didnt change anything else in the column so i cant put the thing in park without changing parts.

Well the breather is spotless then. Ive been reading and it turns out with the 350s, its more likely to be a intake manifold gasket vs a blown head gasket... i had already ordered those gaskets due to a wrong diagnostic for an oil leak.

If its a blown head, and mu radiator is full of water, would it look like chocolate milk? Or more of a brownish water with brown specks floating in it? I see rust in the radiator, so i want to say its just that.

Also, the oil on the dipstick has been all black, (so old dirty oil) so that means no coolant therex correct?

If the head isnt blown, would there be harm in throwing in some "sealant"?

I swear to god... i wasnt this worried until i got on to Veeky Forums...

The shop I work at has a tester for blown head gaskets, I wouldn't know about shops around you but I'd imagine they might have one too.Not like it really matters, doing head gaskets isn't really a huge job on old engines

Literally was about to post that the intake gaskets can leak internally and you won't know until you check your oil. So change your oil, make sure it doesn't look like a latte. If it's not that check your PCV and see if it's clogged or not working.

engine broke inno clashing metal noises, neatgo to change oil and get break in shit outstart it next day to warm upstep outside car to raise idlenotice pool under carsee my life flash by in those 2 flashing secondsjump back in car to shut offplastic oil line bursts off temporary mechanical gauge fittingcaught it before the oil was even off the dipstick, wewBP calls and ask if they can drill in my driveway

notice small coolant leak from what appears to be waterpumpfuck megets worse and small pool under motor in morningpressure test to confirmall the new hose clamps I bought and tightened loosed to finger tighttighten them and leak is gonegod bless Lee Iacocca

order second dipstickthis would should fitthis one does not fittake hammer and woodmassage gently in to shapeworks pretty welltop is stuck up against valve coveryup I got an ideapic related, drilled out a washer to fit over dipstick tubeperfect

The pcv is the hose that goes from the front of your carb into the valve cover. Disconnect that bad boy at the valve cover and give it a good shake. It should click if not it's good. Basically the PCV takes crank case blow by and reburns it. A lot of times a malfunctioning one will let oil through.

PCV is positive crankcase ventilation, a fancy term for using some of the intake vacuum to suck in gases in the crank case that blowby the rings so the crankcase doesn't become over pressurized.

It's an emission system otherwise older cars would just vent the gases into the atmosphere. It doesn't kill power or anything and you should make sure yours is working properly. There's usually a little black valve that goes either into the intake in a rubber grommet or one of the valve covers with a hose that connects to the carburetor.

The valves sometimes will stick closed from being gummed up, shake it and hear if it rattles.

Rebuilding a manual trans is not the end of the world, but you can always go and find a junkyard trans to swap in.

maybe something along the lines of "rodney thinks that because he works in a big fancy building built by his pappy he can treat paying customers like crap. Don't get work done here unless you dress like money or look old enough (50) to warrant their "service""

Oh yeah and I fixed the coolant leak on the lincoln. Realized the only place that could be leaking had to be at the top of the intake for the coolant to be pooling in the casting like that, should've just calmly looked around and seen the cracked hose right in front of me

Stupid question but could someone school me on cam's and torque converters. The cam In my new Pontiac 400 is a comp cam with these specs 224 /230 duration at .050" with .480" lift on 110. I know it's going to be lopey but is it going to be streetable with a 2400 stall? also unrelated, Do I post on here enough to warrant a trip??

Post more if you got em, I'm savin em all. And yeah that's what I like about my 69 D100... There just isn't that much to go wrong. Still getting used to working on cars with more stuff in the engine bay

If you don't understand cams at all watch the engine masters vid. Sometimes freiburger just skims everything as if you know it all already but this one really helped me understand. Of course if you know all the terminology and concepts already that won't help lol

Ignoring all the shit i have to fix and getting back to dreaming... what are some mods i can do for a 75 camaro? Its already got the bars on the rear axle, 3/4 ton suburban rear suspension and rear end, 275/225 rear to front tires, so its got a rake. And sadly discovered a fake hood scoop. So other than these, what are some cosmetic mods that will leave a good taste?

Not even sure you'd notice that on 400 cubes. That'd make a 302 have a noticeable but still mild lope at idle but a 400 would smooth that out a lot. I expect a 2400 stall would be ok though I'd probably want something a bit more like a 2800-3000 range but not just because of the cam.

Correctomundo, my friend.Which is why it's not my first car.Though my first car was so generic and boring I don't even remember what it was.So.I got a 1968 Ford Fairlane instead, and decided to use gunsmithing knowledge to fix it.

Should I go back to the original mounts or make it a more standardized version instead?I'm gonna have to cut the parts where the mounts attached out anyways, it's just a matter of what I put in afterwards.

If you care about originality, keep the stock mounts.If you want to put in a seat (I say Seat cause I hope you keep a bench seat in it) from any other vehicle you please, then do that.In the end it's your car, you may do what you please

The guy said that it would have a bit of a lope to it but maybe his definition of lope is different than mine or yours lol Gauge lights when you get them working. I like the look of the red gauges in the 10th anniversary ta's. It kinda reminds me of old aircraft gauges. Sub frame connectors are also something I'd like to do to mine. Also if it's got a hood scoop you can cut them out to make them functional. My ta has it's shaker gutted to make it functional.

I'll keep it in mind, at the moment I cant really afford to have the new tranny installed, and the old one isn't perfect, it has 2 leaks needs new gaskets. Plus she is now officially DD status, so I need her running, at least till classes end for winter.

A Six vapor-locking? Virtually unheard of but not impossible I suppose.

Fuel pump needs to be good. Gasoline boils at 150F at atmospheric pressure so, much like a radiator, having pressure in the fuel line increases boiling resistance. Also the fuel line needs to be metal for as much of the distance from the pump to the carb as possible. Rubber hose actually holds heat in better. Finally none of the fuel line should touch any part of the engine and needs a minimum of 1/8 inch clearance to any engine part.

Ran into a guy at the parts store yesterdaySays he has the parts I'm looking forAttached to a 68 4 door hard top he'll sell me for $300

I went out, turns out he has a shitload of cars and parts. Also had a 454 HO he'd sell me for $800. The 68 is in good shape, but it's totally gutted, no front fenders, no interior. Needs quarter work. I'm more interested in the 454. That would look pretty good in my 67.

Ran into another guy later that also has a 68, he has a set of 355 gears he's going to GIVE me. I'm not up on rear end gears, but I said I'd take them. I think my 67 has 308s.

coworkers finally giving me the "why are you still dumping money into that thing" speechI work at a dealership so they know just how fucked up this truck isI am tempted to fiberglass the hole in the floorboard until I can afford to take it to get cut out and welded up properly just so I can throw the interior I'm nearly done restoring back in and say "see look it's gucci now m8"

I haven't tripped in a while, but I'm the guy who built the FAL with a lawnmower blade instead of an action wrench.I normally am the person (in user form) who walks people through ultra-cheap AK builds.I don't have any projects going right now (because of the car actually) so I haven't posted in a bit.

But these were a factory option over here (i'm brazillian). Was actually on the most powerful fcatory Beetles ever produced, the 1600 S.javascript:;I think it's way better looking, and just as functional as those decklid "raisers", with the bonus of not keeping your deck half-open.

I'm going on vacation, I'll try to check up on everything every couple of days but if I don't I'll see you guys in 10 days. Anyway, See ya later dudes and good luck on all your projects! Ps my hand's aren't really that fat in person I swear lol

So after some thinking, I come to the conclusion it might not be vapor lock but i am not sure what it could be. She cut out after a bout a hour and a half of driving, with three stops for about 15-20mins each. On top of that she wont even run unless the choke is pulled out a bit now, before she would run with choke pushed in after warming up of course. We went to change the thermostat today, and broke the housing which sent coolant every where, already ordered a new one should be here tomorrow. We also tried before that to put some extra gaskets between carb and space, only succeeded in making a loud whistle which we immediately went and said "fuck" . So tomorrow we go back to the original configuration. Any ideas on why the shes dying with the choke all the way in?

Someone was posting about lopo's last thread, finally getting around to lower intake gaskets on my Town Car. While I'm at it, PCV trio, all new vacuum lines, plugs, wires, cap+rotor, smog pump delete, EGR delete, 1.7rr's, HO Upper, HO TB, and factory EGR spacer bored out to 63mm. Nothing special, just shit I have laying around, enough to make the lopo suck a little less. I have two complete running 5.0 Exploders sitting around, one of them will end up under the hood sooner then later.

No, I'll try that, not sure how to will probably have to look up some videos. Sorry didn't even notice that, and I was looking at this guys stuff a couple months back, When i figure out whys shes stalling and not running with out the choke i will give him a call.

These motherfuckers set up shop in both my fuel fillers doors, and under the truck around the frame. Knocked the hives off ,tore off down a dirt road with wasps flying in through the door cracks to sting the shit out of me, and now these fucks are already trying to rebuild after I got em all out.

I give up Veeky Forums. I took the camaro in so a shop can tell me whats wrong. Expecting very bad news.

Brought it in to work, changed the oil and added blue devil, and i drained the radiator (full of water) and filled it with anti freeze. Started it up and so much smoke... also tried leaning out the carb and did it way too far so now thats all screwed.

Look man. You got another car for daily use right? Do a head leak test, and if it comes back your head's leaking, it's time to pull your big boy pants up. Get a pair of good head gaskets for chump change and start pulling stuff off. Take the valve covers, and the carb, and the intake mani, and so on. As long as you keep everything organized and labeled, you'll be fine. A literal retard could do the head gaskets on one of these. Just take your time

Mate serious, my EGR didn't have a gasket, it was just a small leak but it smoked like a chimney. I RTV'd it and it hasn't smoked since. You never know if whoever owned your car before you sealed the headers right, welded the pipes completely etc.You need to douse the headers with starter fluid before the engine will hiccup if that's actually what's leaking

Its not the work that scares me, its the fact that id have my car taking up a bay at work. We're free to use them when they arent busy, but thats a day to day thing.Do what I do. Put in a proper ticket, pay employee labor pricing (which is pretty good where I'm at), and just eat your humble pie. Watch him do it if you can and want to learn how.

I work at an mwr facility on base, not a dedicated auto shop. Basically just a place for people to change oil and brakes and the like. And id be fine with paying the bay fees, but id be paying for the time while im working somewhere else. If im paying for 8 hours a day, but i can only get in an odd hour or 2...

I'm nearly done finishing the interior of the MJ, the trim color coat is coming out beautifully and the carpet is literally ready to get thrown in, but I keep biting my fucking fingers off over getting the goddamn hole in the floor patched.

Fuckin christ, thanks I feel better now. My dad said he looked them over when we got the car, but turns out he said that, and never got around to pulling them out and looking at them.

I want to swap from points soon, but it works for now, so will probably keep it until it breaks. Dad said we will probably need new wires soon to. We also as another precaution for protection against vapor lock bought some insulation tape and wrapped it around the fuel line from the pump to carburetor.

Heres a pic of the old thermostat, couldn't find the housing in the garage its bit to dark in there at the moment, and the lighting is crap.

I miss my 88 'manche. Brother tricked me about 4 years ago and said the bottom end was going out and i should sell it before it crapped on me. Guy i sold it to later told me it was the water pump making all the noise. Turned out my brother just had a thing against jeeps and pushed me to buy a chevy. Now i got my revenge with an old ford.

Turned out my brother just had a thing against jeeps and pushed me to buy a chevy.I would have killed him. The only fucking reason I put up with this not-even-for-parts rat trap is because I love Comanches. I don't know what I'm going to do about the wiring harness, the engine bay is a fucking mess and I probably need to throw in an entire new harness. No problems yet, but I see copper in lots of places. And there's plenty of repairs.

Oh happy days! So turns out im blind as shit, and its not white, but blue/grey smoke. Turns out the carb is fucked so im having the shop rebuild and tune it. ($150 for rebuild and tune, 40 for kit). But i also got this fancy list of other stuff thats fucked with it! Luckily i was planning on replacing the main seal and timing gasket any way (and thus the water pump was coming off too). The trans "leak" i suspect is the fluid i spilled all over it. Even so, i plan on getting a new one next year since the syncros are shot. Only thing i didnt suspect was the oil pan, so not a big deal... just wish i hadnt done an oil change yesterday.

Come unto me /I/, and imbue the knowledge of removing the front quarter panel of a 1968 Ford Fairlane, for in this hour of need Google has failed be, Bing has abandoned me, and my Manual has not yet arrived to bestow help and knowledge.

Hey guys, trying to get a 1973 Dodge Charger running. Not much of a car guy.

There's power to mechanical parts I think, but nothing to the rest of the car. Trying to jump start the car through the starter relay and a screwdriver cranks the car, but does not start.

There's no power to the interior, no dome light, no ignition buzz, no radio, nothing at all. Don't exactly know how to troubleshoot by checking ohm resistance, but I've tried and I can't really tell where the fault is.

I was under there and the ignition connector had a wire that melted that part of the connector, but didn't notice anything and the connector wouldn't come apart before so I yanked on it and pulled it apart and I'm assuming it's a part of the problem.

Should I just cut the wires on the bad pins and solder them together and see if that gives me anything?

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