Alport Castles Alport Dale and River Alport

We’ve
all been there, that ever growing tick list, places to visit, things to do and
much more. Well, Alport Castles is one of many on my tick list and I’ve
finally, only just though, managed to make the visit.Why
only just?You’ll
have to read on, all will become apparent…..After
a cancelled Peak District camping weekend due to commitments closer to home, I
was itching more and more to get out and have a wander. Sadly, locally there is
nothing but lowland farms and riding stables, not the sort of exciting
landscape that the Peaks, Snowdonia, Yorkshire, the Highlands and many more,
would offer me.Talking
of Yorkshire, I’m been lucky to have family living in North Yorkshire and even
better, relatively close to both the North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales. Over
the past few years, we’ve been able to stay with them, on their farm during
late October.However,
sadly this year, it’s not going to happen, due to family commitments back here
at home. Frustratingly, I’ve a couple of walks planned around the North York
Moors, so they’ll have to wait until another time.But
plans are afoot for a visit, sometime next year.Back
to Alport Castles, finally ticked off my list, but almost never happened.

The ford across the River Bradbournea view in enjoy on my drive through the Peak District

The
night before, I was preparing my kit, checking everything, particularly my two
headtorches and the cycle rear light that attaches to my pack, especially with
sunset being 18:15 hrs (6:15pm). My hydration pack had gained two puncture
holes!I
couldn’t find my spare, then I remembered that I had loaned it out, and put it
to one side. I checked the spare hydration pack was ok, and because it hadn’t
been used for a while, cleaned it out and everything was sorted, ready for
Alport Castles.Next,
check the headtorches. One didn’t work!Simple
enough problem, one battery had just died. A battery suddenly dying like that, especially as the batteries had been changed, very recently as part of my winter preparation,
is not a common event, but it does very happen where a battery suddenly loses
its charge. The other two batteries were fully charged, only being replaced a
few weeks ago and part of my winter preparation.You
can read about much of the kit I carry in my pack, in What's in my pack?,Even
if the headtorch had gone faulty, I’ve another two spare headtorches if needed.A
sunny Sunday morning, the car loaded up with the days kit, I started the drive
to the Peak District.After Lichfield, the
drive was a slow and fog laden one. What is
normally a two and a half hour drive turned out to be a three and a half hour
drive!A
quick photo stop alongside Ladybower, engulfed in low cloud, allowed me to
assess the parking situation, which looked very full, even Heatherdene Pay and
Display Car Park was full!

Ladybower Reservoir, looking over to Ashopton Viaduct

As
a result, my intended parking by Ladybower Reservoir was full. Those of you,
who know that area, will know how quickly the parking is snapped up. So I had
to find alternative parking, about three miles up the road.This
meant a change to my planned route, from Ladybower, via Crook Hill to Alport
Castles. To even attempt that, would waste too much time walking to the start
point and I didn’t really fancy an uphill walk late on such a warm day.I
had parked in a layby on the Snake Pass almost across the road from Wood
Cottage, near Blackden View Farm. The nearest suitable path was via Alport
Farm, at Alport Bridge.Those
of you, who know the area, will also be aware that mobile phone signals are not
brilliant, to non-existent, so I couldn’t let my wife know of the route change
before setting off.With
any walk, you should always leave a route plan with someone responsible, along
with estimated return times, and so if anything should go wrong, that person
can inform the police of your late return and their concern for your safety.However,
I knew once I gain some height, then I should be able to send a text message
advising of the revised route.I
used text for two reasons;1It
facilitates a more detailed route description, giving the recipient details they
can store.2 Text
messages often win through when it’s difficult to establish a phone callI
was also still debating certain parts of the route to try and make a fuller day
of the walk!So,
booted and suited, I set off, on the revised route, which entailed a rather
precarious walk easterly along the busy A57, Snake Pass. To be honest, I was
pushing my luck, for those who know the road, it harbours some rather unsavoury
road users and that particular party, didn’t have much of a verge to safely walk
along.

Knowing
the sunset time was 18:15 hrs, I was not relishing the return walk along the
Snake Pass in the late afternoon light, let alone the dark!It
wasn’t too long before I reached the footpath near Alport Bridge, nicely
nestled among the roadside foliage, where my walk was to start, properly.

The footpath by Alport Bridge

The
path is well defined and soon reaches open space. Here you see signposts
showing the various routes, one of which was the hardened track that had come
through Hayridge Farm, leading to Alport Farm.Here
I had eyed up the possibility of using the track through Hayridge Farm on my
return to the car, to reduce the distance I would need to walk along the Snake
Pass back to the car.Walking
along the track, there was a narrow track going uphill to the left, taking my
up to Hey Ridge. Time for a quick route assessment, do I walk up Hey Ridge, or
follow the track through Alport Farm for Alport Castles?

The path from the road

Soon the path clears the wooded area

The hardened track to Alport Farm

The path to Hey Ridge

The
sky was blue, the sun shining, Ladybower was still engulfed in low cloud,
Kinder and Bleaklow should be in clear view, so my decision was made, ascend via
Hey Ridge and return via Alport Castles.I
fancied that route, as I gained height Kinder was looking superb and inversion
over Ladybower was looking very photogenic.The
ascent up Hey Ridge was nice and steady, with the views becoming ever more
impressive as I gained height. I had also managed to gain sufficient height to
send a text message advising my wife of the route change and revised return
time.It
also enabled me to tweet some photos I’d taken of the inversion over Ladybower,
Kinder and Bleaklow.

Looking up Hey Ridge

Inversion over Ladybower Reservoir

Walking
along this stretch of Hey Ridge, reminded me a lot of walking across Howl Moor,
in the North York Moors. The plantation I used for handrail purposes was almost
akin to the plantation on Howl Moor, used for the very same reason, along with
the terrain and vegetation!You
can read about that walk in A Heartbeat Walk from Aidensfield on
to Howl Moor

...."reminded me a lot of walking across Howl Moor, in the North York Moors.The plantation I used for handrail purposes was almost akin to the plantation on Howl Moor"....

Time
as pressing on, I’d already lost an hour and a half daylight walking time, so I
had to move on. I’d clocked the large number of close contours of Alport Dale,
where the River Alport flows through, but I’d hoped that I could make a
relatively easy crossing of the Dale quite a distance along.Coming
to the end of Alport Plantation, Alport Dale was in full view, along with its
long steep sides leading down to the River Alport!

...."Alport Dale was in full view,along with its long steep sides leading down to the River Alport"....

It’s
easy sometimes to underestimate what contours tell you about the steepness of a
slope, but this was no surprise. It was just as I’d feared, a long deep dale
with steep slopes both sides. However, the further west I walk, the drop to the
River Alport would get gradually less.Lunchtime
was looming fast, so I stopped for a lunch break, which also served as an ideal
time to reassess my route.I
was having doubts about getting back to the car before sunset. While that in
itself wasn’t an issue, what was the issue, was the lack of mobile signal and
my wife panicking if I hadn’t made some contact to let her know I was going to
be later than the revised time was a problem.So
everything packed away, I put my pack back on my back and started to undertake
a full reccie of the area and assess possible route alternatives to return back
to the car within reasonable time.After
all, Alport Castles had been where they are for a long time and will still be
there for a lot longer.So
I was looking at the map and the lay of the land, standing what I would have
considered a reasonable distance from the edge, I was even considering back
tracking the route I’d just covered. After all, the terrain was generally good,
even though there were some rather wet and boggy areas, it would get me back
within the allotted time.Then!Woosh!The
ground from under my feet gave way, taking me down in to Alport Dale!Now
my recollection is very sketchy what happened here.

Looking down Alport Dale after the fall!

I
just recall the ground giving way and a glimpse or two of what seems like fast
moving ground. Yes, I was falling, fast!I’m
unclear how far I had fallen, for I hadn’t actually started to locate on the
map where I actually was. I know I wasn’t at the top; I had moved down a short
distance to allow me to get a clearer view of the dale, so it is really very
difficult to assess the height of the fall!The
next thing I vaguely recall, I was feeling cold and shaking. All I could think
about was getting warm, so I somehow managed to get my fleece from my pack.Things
are still extremely vague, I really don’t remember opening my pack, but I must
have, for not only had I put my fleece on, I’d pulled out the stuff sack with
my storm shelter in.Still
shaking, but not feeling quite so cold, in fact I felt quite warm, I started to
collect myself together and began to realise what had happened!I
was almost at the bottom of Alport Dale!Time
scales are very vague here, I’m not even going to try and guess.The
reality was, I had a steep climb out, and no matter which way I went. I had no
mobile signal. I was in considerable discomfort, but no obvious cuts, bruises
or damage.I
could put some weight on my legs, though still very shaky.Still
collecting myself together, I started to reassess the whole situation, I needed
to climb out and get back to the car, as soon as possible.I
don’t think at this point, it had crossed my mind how serious the situation
was, or even worse, could have been; but my goal was to get going as soon as I
could.Though
I was able to stand up, I was still shaky, so I grabbed my trekking poles, set
them to the desired length, put my pack back on my back, and decide what would
be the best way out of Alport Dale.Looking
at the contours on the map and both sides of Alport Dale, I decided that the
best option was to cross the River Alport, which had a few options where the
stones would provide some sort of crossing, then make a steady ascent where the
contours would become greater in distance apart then on the other side, and
head in a south easterly direction heading for Birchin Hat and Alport Castles.The
plan was in place, the only thing was, would I be able to make the trek?There
was only one way to find out, that was to do it.It
was uncomfortable to start with, my legs seemed very unsteady, and also my arms
struggled to support me on my trekking poles, but I wasn’t going to give up.
Heading down hill was not the easiest of descents, almost losing my footing a
few times on the steep slope down; I eventually reached the River Alport.Looking
upstream and downstream, for the best place to cross, I spotted what seemed the
ideal place, a good stretch of stones across the water.With
the aid of my trekking poles, I crossed the river safely and without incident,
but now there was a steep climb away from the river in front of me!My
legs and arms still a little shaky, I was beginning to wonder if I’d made the
right decision. I had no option, I was now committed to this route.So,
a quick breather, a couple of deep breaths and start the ascent up the steep
grassy slope.I
had about a steep 30 metre ascent before the ground would even out, or even I
could consider stopping for a breather. It was a challenging climb, but I
eventually made it. Where I was able to take a much needed breather and allow
myself some recuperation before the next stage.After
a few minutes, I decided it was time to move on, I still had a long way to walk
and a lot of height to gain.I
did wonder about the possibility of walking along the River Alport to avoid
unnecessary height gain, but the map unsurprisingly shown marshy ground, which
could have been more intrepid!Onwards
and upwards, the planned gradual ascent had started. But, I needed to adjust my
trekking poles. The right one needed to be longer, to compensate for the
downward slope to my right while the left needed to be shorter.I
was amazed how much more steady I felt once the poles lengths were set.By
now I had almost forgotten how I felt and started to feel more positive and I
was actually looking forward to going via Alport Castles.Onwards
and upwards, the steady ascent and distance gained started to make the walk a
pleasure again. I could see the River Alport below, becoming more distant, the
crossing point was becoming more indistinct and what looked like Birchin Hat,
getting nearer.

Looking across Alport Dale to Hey Ridge, after the climb up from the River Alport

Time
for another breather and also to reassess the route, check timings and work out
roughly what point I would be using my headtorch.I
found a nice sized boulder to sit on and I could start to assess and plan the
next and final stages of my route.Yes,
quick calculations earlier suggested I was going to return to the car in the
dark.At
my current pace, I was going to see Alport Castles in decent daylight, make a
comfortable descent, in daylight, but around Alport Farm, I would most likely
need my headtorch on.Suitably
rested, I decided now was probably the best time to get my headtorch handy.
Have you ever tried searching for something in the pitch black?So
my headtorch was put in to a pocket for quick and easy access and my backup
headtorch was placed at the top of my pack, so if I needed it, that to would be
easy to put hands on it in the darkSo
continuing to head for Birchin Hat, I could make out what looks like aright
angled dry stone wall in the distance. Now I knew Alport Castles wasn't too far
away.

Birchin Hat, identifiable by the dry stone wall at the top

I
could also see what looked very much like a deep cutting in to the plateau I
was aiming for. This would mean either an awkward route around, what would
probably have very narrow footings and steep enough slopes, or I had to make a
straight steep ascent upwards.I
opted for the steep ascent upwards, which I had a clear view of the route
ahead, which looked steep, but safe to negotiate. I didn’t relish the idea of
maintaining a steady ascent, only to find I had narrow footings with a high
risk of slipping and also the risk of having to backtrack and try an
alternative route.It
wasn’t too long before I reached Birchin Hat, distinguishable by its right
angled dry stone wall, shown as a right angled boundary feature on the map. I
could also see Alport Castles!At
this point, I hadn’t read up on exactly what Alport Castles was. What in the
distance almost resembled a Motte and Bailey now looked very much like an old
disused quarry. Subsequent reading told me how wrong I was. Alport Castles is
one of the biggest land slips in the Peak District, continuing for almost a
mile in length, not just the two features known as The Tower and Little Moor!The
largest section of Alport Castles, called The Tower, almost resembles a Motte
and Bailey, which was my first thoughts of the feature, viewed from a distance.

The first view I had of Alport Castles

Alport Castles, The Tower

Alport Castles, Little Moor

I
also had some very commanding views over to the Great Ridge, Derwent Edge and
also Stanage Edge in the distance. All of those I have walked on many occasions
and if you look at the titles at the end of this blog, you can read those walks
too.All
of a sudden, my mobile had burst in to life, the message tone was pinging away,
as Twitter was updating with all the responses to my earlier tweeted photos, so
that told me, I had a signal.Time
to let my wife know that I was going to be later than the revised time sent
earlier that morning.It
wasn’t too long before I had a reply acknowledging my text.With
that done, it was time to enjoy the views take and tweet some more photos, and
observe a superb sunset over Kinder.Things
seemed to be going nicely to plan; I had reached Alport Castles close to the
start of my descent route, just after Little Moor, leading down to Alport Farm.Here
I was to lose any mobile signal and I had estimated that towards the end of my
descent, any available light would soon disappear.

The path down alongside Little Moor

The path to Alport Farm runs alongside the dry stone wall

After
an initial steep descent alongside Little Moor, the path steadied out,
maintaining a steady descent down to Alport Farm and also giving me some good
views of Alport Castles The Tower and Little Moor.Now
for some strange reason, a cairn had been established on a reasonably clearly
defined path. Hey ho, nothing to worry about, but I had to grab a photo.

The cairn

It
was also an ideal time to get my headtorch out of my pocket and put it in to
position, ready for what I expect to be a rapid fading of light. A quick check
that it still works, then on my head it went.Also,
I have a cycle rear light, which attaches nicely to the back of my pack. That
can either be a flashing or constantly on set of three red LED’s.Continuing
down, it wasn’t long before I reached the River Alport, by Alport Farm, which I
would need to cross again.In
the rapidly fading light, I spotted what looked like a suitable crossing point.
But, the map told me the actual crossing point was some fifty metres further
downstream.Trusting
my map, I opted for the maps crossing point, which turned out to be a nice
substantial bridge.

The deceptive crossing point

The proper crossing point, a substantial bridge across the River Alport

Crossing
the river, I walked back towards what initially looked like a crossing point,
but on the other side of the river, which required some inspection. This revealed
it would be a little too deep to cross without getting a couple of boot fulls
of water.Looking
at the tracks leading to the water’s edge, suggest its used by vehicles, like
quad bikes and tractors, so my advice, don’t consider crossing here with the
bridge being so near.Following
the track round, the light had as good as faded by now, so photos are not an
option, because the flash isn’t powerful enough to capture the scene clearly
enough.According
to the map, it should be a steady hard core track, used by motor vehicles,
however, the reality was, it was still grass. Approaching Alport Farm, I was
given the choice of a path off to my right, or what didn’t appear to be a
clearly marked path through a farm gate in front of me.This
is where taking bearings came in to their own. The gated grassed track didn’t
look like a footpath, while the path to the right would take me the wrong way,
in a northerly direction alongside the River Alport!Added
to that, in the now very indistinct light, the grassed track seemed to swerve
to the left, just as the map suggested, so I took the chance and followed that.Just
as the map suggested, I was walking through Alport Farmyard. Though any signage
was not very evident using the clear bright light from my headtorch, but the
way it meandered matched the plan on the map.I
soon reached the end of the farmyard and the other side of the gate, was that
hardened track I was looking for.Here
on, the route was straightforward, the track would take me straight to the A57 Snake
Pass and through Hayridge Farm.I’ve
spent many hours night walking and have completed navigation training, in the
dark, so I was quite comfortable to continue, the arduously long walk along the
track and also, to conserve battery power, I switched the headtorch off!

The view back at the car.

Now
that might seem reckless, considering the earlier incident, but I was
comfortable with what I could see in the dark.The
fact is, you would be amazed what you can see once your eyes have become
accustomed to no artificial light.It
can take between twenty to thirty minutes for eyes to become accustomed to the
dark from bright light. However, after using a headtorch, within a minute or
two, my eyes can become comfortably accustomed to darkness and I can see
sufficiently to make a safe passage.BUT!
I cannot read a map, or compass, without artificial light.I
eventually reached Hayridge Farm and I could hear the traffic passing along the
A57 Snake Pass.Now
the bit I wasn’t relishing, walking the busy road, in the dark!I
soon reached the layby where I had started, and was reacquainted with my car,
journeys end of an eventful day.Post
walk assessment, which I did once I’d got home and relaxed in a hot bath, the
day really didn’t go to plan, I’m far from superstitious, but I wonder if the
things that seemed to be road blocks to the walk, were a warning?A
quick recap, the punctured hydration pack, the headtorch battery, the slow
drive up and no planned parking available!Sometimes
these things make you wonder, but what it did do, was awaken me to the reality
of what could have been!Yes,
a nasty statistic!In
hindsight, what did surprise me, was how I managed to work around the
situation, and also reassure me that the extra kit I carry for emergency
events, as often advised, is a good idea, along with the way I organise my
pack, using different coloured dry sacks to store various items in, probably
also helped.

My
trekking poles, something I’m guilty of not using often enough, once again,
have more than proved their worth as part of my first aid kit.

I’ll
tell you now, there would be NO WAY I would have managed any ascent without
those trekking poles after the incident.

Sadly,
one of the poles has a bent bottom section. I will try to repair the section,
hoping that the repair will not weaken the trekking pole. If not or I’ve any
doubt, I will be replacing them before the next walkl.

The
following day, the Monday, I ached considerably, particularly down my left
side, walking was painful, particularly stairs and it wasn’t until almost the
next weekend when I started to feel less pain.

I’m
probably raving bonkers, for I would quite happily do the same rout again. But,
I would keep a greater distance from the edges, which I would do with cornices
when winter walking or other obviously dodgy edges.