Required Uniforms and Equipment

This list contains recommended items with contact points
to vendors and suppliers of proven top quality reproductions. Some suppliers
will be listed several times as they are sources for a variety of products.
These listed sources are for your convenience only. Although the reproduced
items have been inspected for authenticity, prices and service are entirely at
the vendors discretion. When dealing with vendors and suppliers make sure that
you have an accurate idea of their services, prices and delivery times.

When considering uniforms you may, as an option consider
purchasing your own pattern and cloth. With a little sweat equity you may
reproduce a uniform at a fraction of the retail cost. A word of caution, please
do your research beforehand, as a uniform that is constructed incorrectly will
be as historically incorrect as the worst “sutlers row” product. A list of
pattern and fabric suppliers will be included in the Appendix of this list.

Note: Nineteenth century people did not wear their clothes
as we do today. Loose fitting clothes were the style. Also, nineteenth century
"standardization" was a far cry from the meaning of the word today.
The army generally provided clothing in only four sizes, so the chances of a
perfect fit were small. Some companies had a "company tailor," who
could make individual alterations for a price. The quality of a company’s
tailor’s work most certainly varied however.

Trousers – U.S. issue
infantry pattern sky blue kersey (a pronounced diagonal weave) wool trousers.
The pattern called for a waist with a high back about 3" higher than the
front, as well as other 19th century details. Confederate Depot
trousers were cut in a more modern fashion than their US counterpart but still
retained all the character of 19th Century clothes, as did Civilian
models. Research shows that Confederates in the field wore civilian trousers in
large quantities.Note: Nineteenth century men wore their trousers at the
navel. Suspenders are optional since they were never issued, but were definitely
worn by men whose waist did not match one of the four issue sizes. Period
photographs do not show many men without their coats on, but of the ones that do
about half are not wearing suspenders.
The cut, construction and fabric are very important on
Federal Trouser. Here are suppliers that have excellent reproductions.

Shirt – U.S. issue
white flannel (wool on a cotton warp) shirt with hand-sewn buttonholes. Buttons
should be stamped sheet iron (tin).
Note: At present, very few sutlers sell these shirts and
the price is cost prohibitive. While half the Union army probably wore these
shirts at any given time, the other half were wearing cotton shirts sent from
home. Therefore, you have another option:

or:
Civilian cotton shirt in woven (not printed) checked or striped pattern with
hand-sewn topstitching and buttonholes. If your shirt has machine sewn button
holes, you should redo them by hand, or sweet-talk your wife into doing it.
Buttons should be horn, shell, or glass.

Hat/Cap – U.S. issue
Model 1858 black "Hardee" hat. Predominant in the western Federal
armies, these hats were issued without brass insignia, which the men did not
like anyway.or:
Black wool felt civilian hat.and/or:
U.S. issue Model 1858 forage cap. The crown of the cap falls forward toward the
leather bill unlike the kepi, which has a more rigid crown and was not commonly
issued to Federal troops.

Note: You have a very important choice to make in selecting
your hat/cap. The proper hat or cap is crucial to a good impression of a 19th
century soldier. A man’s hat not only fit his head, but it fit his personality
as well. Hats were predominant in the western armies of both sides. However,
many caps were issued to western troops, and some men preferred them, especially
if they felt it fit their personality.

For your Confederate impression using only required gear,
either the black civilian hat will do.

Brass insignia: Due to the fact that insignia was not
commonly used; and the fact that a hat without insignia was easier to reshape to
your liking for comfort and looks; and the fact that if you wore it, you had to
keep it polished; brass insignia was the exception rather than the rule. It is
therefore discouraged.

Coat (U.S.) – U.S.
Model 1858 fatigue jacket (sack coat). Buttons should be U.S. Model 1854 general
service issue eagle (small, with shield instead of branch letter).
Note: Uniform patterns and styles varied between the
different Federal Quartermaster Depots, but these differences were slight
especially compared to the Confederate Depots.or:
U.S. Model 1851 enlisted man’s frock coat (same buttons). Frock coats were not
uncommon, but the sack coat was definitely predominant plus a reproduction frock
coat generally costs over twice as much as a sack coat.

Coat (C.S.) – Shell
Jacket – In the first year of the war, many pre-war companies of southern
soldiers continued to wear their volunteer militia uniforms, which varied
greatly in color, pattern, and style from company to company. Many companies
formed after the fighting started went to war wearing "over shirts"
that were decorated with trim for a "uniform" look.
Prior to early 1862 many soldiers received what is called a
“commutaion” jacket. These jackets were produced by civilians from
authorized military patterns. This "commutation" jacket pattern was a
basic six piece body, two piece sleeve, stand up collar, seven button shell
jacket, with shoulder epaulets and two belt loops. Photographs suggest that many
commutation jackets were made later without epaulets and/or belt loops.
By the Fall of 1862, the Confederate Quartermaster Depots
were able to supply large numbers of uniforms to the troops, which meant that
from that time until near the end of the war, the majority of the men would be
wearing central government issued clothing. Also, in their wartime letters, most
soldiers asked for and/or mentioned receiving clothing made at home, though it
was usually shirts, socks, or drawers, and sometimes trousers. The inference is
that at any given time of the war, at least some of the men would be wearing
parts of if not a complete Confederate commutation uniform, either sent by the
state government for distribution to Alabama troops through the Quartermaster
Department, or directly to the men by relatives, who often simply sent civilian
clothing. During the same period however, the majority of the men would be
wearing uniforms issued by the Quartermaster Depots of the central government.
Research shows that from at least as early as September
1862, until near the end of the war, the most common shell jacket worn in the
Army of Tennessee was the "Columbus Depot" (contemporary term) jacket.
This jacket was made of wooljean material, and dyed varying shades of gray.
Confederate textile mills used different shades of vegetable dyes or sometimes
no dyes, when they ran short. These dyes easily faded, plus the dust and dirt of
field use gave most gray uniforms an oatmeal-brownish (or "butternut")
tint after a while anyway. This is something to consider when deciding on the
color of your Confederate jacket, since modern synthetic dyes do not fade as
easily.
The Columbus Depot jacket had a medium blue wool trim on
the collar and cuffs. Sometimes, due to shortages of the dye or wool, these
jackets would be issued with no trim. At one time, thought to be a different
pattern and labeled "Atlanta Depot" jackets. It is another option to
consider.
There were two types of Columbus Depot jacket styles: the
Type I (contemporary term) had a longer waist then the Type II, which was
shorter waisted, and had an outside breast pocket. Check out this link for more
information on Columbus Depot Jackets. Confederate
Depot Jackets-The Material Evidence

A number of soldiers wore single-breasted frock coats sent
from home. These were usually made of wooljean, with no trim. This is yet
another option for you, but of course the number of men wearing frocks would be
small plus reproduction frocks are more expensive than shell jackets.

What all this means is that you have a choice in selecting
your Confederate coat. Your choices are listed in the order of the most
prevalent to least prevalent:

Note: All buttonholes and topstitching should be hand sewn.
Buttons should be either brass block I or wooden (late war issue). Buttons were
frequently lost in the field, and many museum specimens have U.S. eagle buttons
on them. You may want to put some Federal buttons on your jacket as
"replacements".

Blanket – Gray-brown
preferred, but any natural color twill weave wooljean or tight woven wool
blanket(s). U.S. issue blankets were gray-brown with gray-black end stripes, and
usually had "US" applied in the center of the stripe.
Note: Blankets that weigh less than five pounds do not provide much warmth.

Haversack – U.S.
issue black painted canvas haversack. Haversacks were used to carry food.
Regardless of what you are actually carrying in your haversack, the impression
should be that it is carrying food.
Note: Soldiers of both sides adjusted the straps of their
haversack, canteen, and cartridge box for comfort on the march. They wore them
high, so they would not beat their hips and thighs for miles on end. The canteen
and haversack were worn over the belt. If the straps are properly shortened for
comfort, the haversack usually will not fit under the belt anyway.

Canteen – U.S. issue
Model 1858 "smoothside" canteen with brown or gray wooljean cover.
Usually, natural wooljean was used to cover canteens because it was cheaper. The
good material was saved to make clothing. Unfortunately, most sutlers sell
canteens with blue wool coverings. Blue was used as a canteen cover color, but
gray and brown were predominant. If you purchase one of these, you should change
your canteen cover as soon as possible.
Note: Canteen straps should be cotton, cotton webbing, or
leather, sewn together or made with a buckle or button (easier to put on and
take off, or a good place to hang a tin cup, if it will not fit inside your
haversack).

Tin cup and Tin Plate–
Original sizes and shapes varied, but most reproductions are basically alike.
You also have the option of obtaining a canteen half, which you can use for
cooking and as a plate. Buy from a sutler, who sells lead-free, solder tin ware.
If you are allergic to tin, drink out of a period bottle, or a clay, copper, or
pewter cup.
Note: Do not purchase enamelware, graniteware, speckle ware, etc.

Knife, Fork, and Spoon–
Any one of these items could be considered optional, although most men prefer
them to their fingers! Original wooden, bone, or plain metal handled utensils
are still commonly found in antique stores, and are usually inexpensive. Also,
reproduction combination utensils are available from sutlers.

These items can sometime be found at event sutlers but do
your research. Here are some sources for correct reproductions:

Ground Cloth/Poncho– This item could be considered optional, but is a very handy piece of
equipment to have. U.S. issue "gum blanket" (solid piece of painted or
rubberized canvas cloth). The "poncho" was basically a gum blanket
with a reinforced slit cut in the middle, but these were generally issued to the
cavalry.

Cartridge Box – U.S.
Model 1855 .58 caliber cartridge box and cartridge box belt (with breastplate)
This cartridge box could be attached to the belt for extra support, so that the
"sling" (contemporary term) was not needed. Most men seemed to prefer
the sling due to the weight of a fully loaded cartridge box (live cartridges are
much heavier than blanks).

Knapsack – U.S. issue
Model 1855 double bag knapsack (this was the most commonly issued Federal
knapsack, though made by many sources with many minor variations).or:
U.S. issue Mexican War softpackor:
no knapsack (use a blanket roll instead)

Quality Leather goods are very important. The price of
these goods may very with the amount of quality construction. Take into
consideration the time frame and order leathers that can span a wider range of
time period. Avoid specialty products.

Bayonet – Appropriate
bayonet and one piece U.S. model 1855 bayonet scabbard for the long arm you have
chosen.

Long Arm –

Take your choice:English Model 1853 Enfield
rifle-musket(.577 caliber)U.S. Model 1861 Springfield rifle-musket(.58 Caliber) The .58 caliber U.S. Model 1863 Springfield would be
another option, except for the fact that reproductions are rare.U.S. Model 1842 Springfield smoothbore musket (other
.69 caliber smoothbores including "conversion" muskets would be
additional options, except that such reproductions are also relatively rare and
expensive)
Most reproduction rifles, muskets and bayonets are not
exact replicas of originals. You will probably have to purchase your weapons at
the best prices and modify it with the help of experienced gunsmiths. These
suppliers have experience in these modifications:

PATTERNS AND FABRICS

These sources are for well researched fabrics and
patterns. They may provide you with and alternative to purchasing wholesale. Be
sure to do your research before beginning your sewing project as construction is
as important as the fabric itself.