Frequently Asked Questions about life at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica

I lived at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station Austral Summer 2012-13. My move here was a long time coming, but the final decision to make the journey here came suddenly, and without a lot of time for reflection or preparation – both for myself, as well as my friends and family. And so, as I made my way down here, lots of questions about how, where, why, and when have come up. To help answer a lot of the more frequent questions, here’s a list of a few of the more common questions I’ve received over the past few weeks.

So, it’s difficult, but if you’re dedicated, you can make it happen. I’ve noticed that most people down here are very specialized at what they do, extremely motivated, smart, and outgoing. The guys I’ve been working with on the Askaryan Radio Array (ARA) drill sled are mechanics, scientists, and drillers – and each one of them is highly experienced.

Even people like me – a cook, and dishwashers, and janitors – almost everyone has a higher degree, or has been working in the field for a while. It’s difficult to get in, especially if you’re good at a lot of different things, or have a lot of experience at a career that doesn’t directly apply to the specific job (like me, with digital media).

So, I’d start working on it now, and making contacts. Look for the Lockheed Martin Antarctic Support Contract (ASC) page on Facebook, and that has links to all the job boards – PAE, GHG, GSC, NSF, etc – start getting organized now, and plan on submitting your filled out applications for all jobs you might qualify for on March 1, 2013 for the 2013-2014 summer season.

Arrived at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica. The geographic pole is about 200 meters away from this sign.

Are only U.S. citizens allowed to work at Amundsen-Scott Station?

Nope, we have people from all over the world working here!

How long is summer season? Is it different at the different stations?

Summer Season is about three months, from November 15th to February 15th. During the summer, we have about 160 people living here, the temperature is around -18F, and the sun shines 24/7. During the winter, which is Feb 15th to Nov 15th, 50 people live here, the temperature gets down to -100F, and it is dark all the time.

What is your job at the Station? Do you enjoy it?

My official job here is as the breakfast cook – that means that I’m solely responsible for making breakfast for the entire station, 6 days a week. In addition to my “official” job, I also have a number of other positions here. I’m a certified W-EMT, and so I work on the South Pole’s “Team 4”, which is the emergency medical response team. If there’s a mass casualty incident here, I’m on the team that responds to it. In addition to Cook and EMS responder, I’m also a tour guide. When expeditions and tourist groups arrive here at the south pole and want a tour of the station, I’m one of the people who can lead them around the station. Finally, I’m working as the south pole station correspondent for The Antarctic Sun, the NSF’s Antarctica news publication.

What kind of meals are you making?

Since I’m the breakfast cook, I singlehandedly make breakfast for 160+ people, every morning, 6 days a week. My usual breakfast consists of a number of dishes:

And after I’m done making all of this in the 2 hours before breakfast service starts, I stand at the griddle and make eggs to order while breakfast is served. I usually make about 90-100 eggs per morning, usually over easy, over medium, scrambled, sunny, or “in a frame”.

While I’m doing all of this, I also have to be prepping for the next morning’s meal. I get to work at 03:30 and start cooking. Breakfast service is from 06:00-08:00. And then I have to be done with all of my breakfast cleanup, as well as complete prep for the next morning by 09:00. I take my first break from 09:00 – 09:30, and then I come back and work with the lunch lady to make lunch for everybody. I get out of work at 13:30, and then usually try to get to sleep around 20:00, so I can wake up at 03:00 the next morning and do it all over again.

How many doctors are there?

There’s only 1 doctor, and 1 nurse. I’m good friends with both of them, and they are both extremely knowledgeable and competent. Our doctor was the former Flight Surgeon for the International Space Station, and has worked in emergency medicine for many many years – his name is Dr. Sean Roden. Our medical facility is equipped to handle almost anything. We have a trauma/surgery bay, a dental bay, a communications bay, a medical laboratory, and even two ward beds, for sick patients. It’s quite incredible how much capability we have packed in such a small space. We also have every kind of medical device you’d find in a basic modern hospital, including 12-lead EKG, Xray, suction, O2, etc. Finally, there’s a remote video system – so if there’s a situation in which we need an extra doctor’s opinion, we can get somebody “virtually” in the operating room. I’ll have photos of all of this soon.

How much free time do you have? How can you spend it?

Not enough! I work a 9 hour shift 6 days a week – from 3:30 – 13:30. After that, I try to go to the gym, and take time to tour around to various places on the station. I’m also training for the South Pole Marathon, so I try to run outside as much as I can.

Finally, arrived at the South Pole. On the day I arrived, the temperature was -40 degrees – that first breath of air was cold!

How is the food? Do you have enough fresh fruit and vegetables?

The food is actually not so bad. We try to be as creative as possible in the kitchen. All of our food has to be flown here, and it’s all stored at -60F in the supply arches, under the ice. We have a lot of food, but it’s all stored away in deep freeze. So anything we make must be able to use food that has been stored and frozen for a long time. Occasionally we get “freshies” – fresh food flown in from New Zealand. That includes fresh fruit and vegetables. There’s never as much as we want, though!

Is it hard to fall asleep with the sun shining all the time?

Nope, not really. My bedroom has a window on it, with a shade that blocks out some light. I taped cardboard over my window, so when the lights are off in my room, it’s completely dark. I have a small red light that I turn on at night, so I can turn off the bright overhead light and make it feel like night time when I’m in my room at night. It took a while to adjust, but nowadays I sleep just fine. Actually, I’m usually so worn out at the end of each day that I fall asleep immediately.

Do you know most of the people there? I guess everyone knows you because you’re giving out the food!

I’m getting to know just about everybody – there are only 150 people, and we see each other every day, so you get to know each other quickly. Additionally, since we all eat in the same galley, we get to sit with each other. I usually try to sit with as many different groups as I can, so I get around to having conversations with everybody.

The mirrored ball at the Ceremonial South Pole. This pole is only used for ceremonial purposes, and does not mark anything.

Is it worth it to come down there?

It’s definitely amazing being here, and I think if you’re feeling the urge to come check it out, it’s worth it. Even just the trip down here is worth it. I flew from DEN>SFO ,SFO>LAX on normal flights, then got to fly LAX>SYD on Quantas on an AIrbus A380 which is an incredible plane. Then SYD>CHC on Emirates on a Boeing 777-300ER, which is also very very cool. Then got to spend time in Christchurch drinking with a bunch of scientists. Then a military flight on a C17, then bummed around McMurdo for a day, then to pole on a C-130 Hercules. Even just those flights are incredible in their own right, and the fact that I was getting paid pretty damn good money to do it was great. Then living down here at pole – the work is HARD for everybody, but the free time is incredible. Every second I’m outside walking around, i’m awestruck by this place. So, yes, come down here, it’s worth it – both for the external experience of it, and also for the experience of getting to know yourself as you put yourself through this intense experience.

Where do you sleep? Do people share rooms or what?

What time do you have to get up to make breakfast for everyone? What’s your schedule like?

I get up at 02:30 (and yes that is “AM”, although all of our timing here is 24 hour time, so nobody uses “AM” and “PM”), but that also means that I go to bed around 7, right after dinner. So I have a somewhat normal length day, it’s just shifted forward a bit. It’s a pain in the ass to get up so early, but it also means that I get off of my shift at 13:30 – while all of the scientists are still working. That allows me to go visit them, see what they’re up to. The down side is since I go to bed so early, I basically have no social life here – and believe it or not, there is a huge social scene.

I hear there are tourists at the south pole too – what’s the deal?

Regarding tourists – actually, we’re just starting to pick up on tourist season. I’m one of the 3 tour guides here on station, and I get to give one or two tours of the station per week, during high tourism season, which is now. The other day I gave a station tour to a “last degree” skiier with ANI. This is the trip they were on: https://www.adventure-network.com/experiences/ski-last-degree. These 4 people + guide on the tour are on a guided expedition with ANI, and each paid a decent amount to get flown to 89 degrees south, and then ski the last 60 nautical miles (1 degree). When they get here, they aren’t actually allowed within a certain radius of the station, because we are a “special use area” as per the antarctic treaty – they camp just outside the ring. Their camp is called the “NGO” camp – Non Governmental Organization – and it’s actually quite nice. Kinda interesting to chat with a bunch of crazy tourists for a few hours. Their DC-3 just landed a few minutes ago, and they’re taking off today. Pics of the NGO camp will be posted as soon as I can.

Did I miss anything? Have any more questions or want to discuss? Contact me!

Update 20130313 – Some more questions sent in by reader Almos Wattay:

Which is the best job search website for the Amundsen-Scott

I’d suggest you look directly at the LMC ASC Site, as well as PAE, GHG, and GSC’s sites. Also find LMC’s Facebook Page

Are there positions for Logistics and/or Supply Chain manager regularly? These two positions fall very close to my profession.

Probably – look on PAE’s job site.

Is there normally an overflow of candidates for any given position?

Yes, almost always – LOTS of people apply for each position. Very strong competition.

Are normal contracts for employment only for summer time or winter-over as well?

Normal contracts are for summer, since there are more staff. However, there are full year contracts available for certain positions, and once you’ve done a summer, you can start thinking about doing a winter.

What are the normal everyday shifts Monday through Saturday (six day work weeks, I know), 12-16 hours?

Is appendectomy required prior to polar employment?

I don’t now, that’s a good question for UTMB. It will all be addressed during your physical qualification process.

Who finances the trip to Amundsen-Scott upon being hired?

The United States Antarctic Program, which receives funding from the National Science Foundation.

What quantity of personal effects can be taken to the station?

Two 50 lb bags per person, plus a small personal bag, i think. It’s all explained in your deployment packet once you get the job.

Does the employee pay for subsistence (dorm, food, polar attire)?

No

I know showers can only be used 2 times per week for 2 minutes each. What about washing hands, brushing teeth, using the toilet regularly?

That is unregulated, and personal hygiene is taken seriously – regular handwashing is strongly encouraged at the station. Additionally, there are instant hand sanitizer dispenses all over the place. We keep it clean! :)

Is it possible to physically be outside during the winter-over period when temperatures fall to 80-100F below zero?

Although I don’t yet have personal experience with winter, yes, I believe it is possible.

Are you strictly limited as to what you can do on Sundays during your day off? What kind of recreational activities are allowed? I saw you jogging outside the base on YouTube, is something like that allowed?

Yep, we go jogging, skiing, hiking, and everything else. Lots to do, both inside and outside. There’s even a recreational cross country ski loop, complete with a warming hut at half way.

Is regular internet access provided to communicate with immediate family members?

Is Amundsen-Scott station in New Zealand time zone?

Yes

Are you a winter-over employee?

No

Since the LC-130 is LOUD when it starts up, safety briefing takes place outside of the airplane. Oxygen masks are a bit different on this aircraft, and consist of a chemical oxygen generator coupled to a full-head hood. Much like an emergency fire escape hood.

The South Pole Telescope, which is able to look at the Cosmic Microwave Background, a remanant of the Big Bang.

After a successful landing at field camp and quick briefing in the galley, first order of business was to get our tents and gear setup. In this picture, I’m sitting in our gear sled as we snowmobile to “Tent City”, on the edge of camp. Everybody has their own tent, and it’s a blend of 4-season mountaineering tents, pointy “scott tents”, and dome-shaped “Arctic Oven” tents.

A Bell 212 Twin Huey comes in to drop off a slingload of gear at McMurdo Station.

Exiting the main admin building at Scott Base with my nifty Betabrand Space Jacket.

A lone Emperor Penguin glides across the frozen sea ice.

Toursts visit the south pole too. Although they are allowed in the elevated station for brief tours, they are restricted to camping out in the “NGO Camp” about a half mile away from the station. Adventure Network International runs the tourist camp.

Abord the C17 flying Christchurch>McMurdo. People sit in conventional airplane seats, as well as on webbing seats along the walls. Additionally, my flight was carrying pallets of scientific equiptment and machinery.

Seals on the Ross Sea ice

Outside the International Antarctic Centre in Christchurch, New Zealand. This is the New Zealand office location of the United States Antarctic Program, and serves as the departure point to the main US Stations – McMurdo and Amundsen-Scott.

Passing over the seasonally frozen southern ocean, with cracks forming in mid-summer. The ice cover is absolutely beautiful, and takes on infinite forms.

Loading a dewar of liquid helium into the Dark Sector Laboratory.

Arrival at the WAIS Divide Field Camp, Antarctica.

The crater left by a PETN disposal explosion.

My tent, with Enerplex solar panel.

The greenhouse is not used in the summer, however in the winter it’s used to grow fresh food for the station staff to eat.

My name tag and program patch on my “Big Red” parka. Note I also added my Explorer’s Club members pin.

Tent City is a short walk from the center of camp.

A delta, and Antarctic airport shuttle, essentially.

Inside Captain RF Scott’s Discovery Hut, Hut Point, Antarctica

The inside of the main drill arch. Overhead you can see the blue heavy crane. The yellow safety fences are surrounding the Winch Pit, which housed the main winch, level wind, and related machinery. This winch pit leads into the borehole slot, which is about 40 feet deep, 40 feet long, 5 feet wide. Although the borehole is only a few inches in diameter, the slot must be long and wide to accomodate the swing room for the drill tower – it must pivot from vertical to horizontal in one motion.

Walking back to WAIS DIvide Field Camp after a day working in teh drill arch. On days of low visibility, flags are the only way to tell which way to walk – and where the ground is.

Walking to work in the drill arch, visibility can vary.

A map of key field camps and stations, with associated pictures.

Flying north, the sea ice gradually melts away to reveal open ocean.

Once airborne, free roaming around the airplane’s cargo bay is allowed. The view out the window, passing over the Transantarctic mountains, is beautiful.

Finally leaving the ice on an Air Force C-17 Globemaster III. Read more about my experiences in Antarctica at https://JeffreyDonenfeld.com/Antarctica and contact me at [email protected] .

Preparing to leave Antarctica on an LC-130.

Pressure from the McMurdo Ice Shelf pushing the sea ice against the shore of Ross Island is so intense that it pushes the ridges of ice very high in the air – the formations are constantly changing, and always beautiful.

Inside Captain RF Scott’s Discovery Hut, Hut Point, Antarctica

Merlin Mah tests his ice fabric logging instrument.

Me outside of the central Galley tent at the West Antarctic Ice Sheet (WAIS) Divide Field Camp.

Me, walking through the inter-ridge trough.

Testing snowmobiles – fun!

Walking down the ramp to our drill arch during stormy ways was a bit like entering a frozen polar base. The ramp leading from the surface down to the arch door frequently got drifted in, requiring digging out by our bulldozer support crew.

From front to back of the galley tent. You can see two “Preway” diesel fueled stoves on the left, with large water pots on the top. The stoves heat the tent, and some of the heat goes to keeping water hot, for hot water bottles, etc.

The mirrored ball at the Ceremonial South Pole. This pole is only used for ceremonial purposes, and does not mark anything.

What is the most basic job you can get down there? I would love to work at the south pole station after I finish university but I realistically wont be qualified enough to do anything more than cleaning!

Congratulations on your employment! Being that it is an american research station is there any chance that international workers (i.e. Canadians) would be able to get a job at the Smundsen-Scott research station?

I don’t know if you are still out there but could you take a look at our class blog? https://wejs3ch.wordpress.com/ We have been trying to get a hit from every continent and Antarctica is proving elusive for some reason. Glad you found your dream job. I have mine. Take a look!

Was in Antarctica last December and yes you were right. Most tourist hit the Peninsula briefly (theory that the peninsula is actually a big island connected only by ice) and deal with hundred of thousands of penguins…..and their unique indescribable smell.

Read your Q and A. What tourists agency get down there? Love to do the tourist thing even for a couple of days.

Umm.. Mr. Donennfield worked as a cook — he scrambled eggs, served them over easy, etc. can you do that? Absolute basic stuff. Mostly, guys talk about how guys go on these adventure jobs — but, really, scrambling a few hundred eggs? Sorry guys, ain’t no problem, and if you want, I’ll prove it… your 67 yr-old Grandma….

My name is Imogen and I am 10 years old. I am doing a project at my school in England and I am trying to find someone who has visited Antartica. Would you please answer my five questions. I really need to get the answers quickly – if you can.

How does being on the South Pole affect the environment? I have read that the power and heat come from massive generators powered by jet fuel. There is the controversy over fossil fuels harming the environment and I wonder if being at the South Pole,Antarctica and North Poles have a greater affect since those areas are normally very cold and making heat and energy would require the generators to run nonstop!

Every once in a while I go on wunderground.com for your current weather, especially in your winter. Quite often I notice strange info like today’s. It shows that the weather now down there is -74 with a wind speed of 9mph. But the wind chill is still -74. I went on an online wind chill calculator, and found that this combination should result in a wind chill of -106. Also, it says that yesterday the temp was -1830. That’s a tad chilly, and a bit unrealistic, I believe. How does this “off the wall” info get to Weather Underground?

really interesting post, I have a friend who worked on the IceCube gen1 scintillator array, he talked about the tremendous heat differential between floors and ceilings, that there had to be ceiling fans going constantly to fight it. Has the station changed much since the 90s? have pv arrays been tried at all for electricity? Have any thoughts been discussed on starting trials of teleoperated medical robotics, which would be a useful learning tool for NASA?
Would a shoulder mounted helmet with preheated air work there, or has it already been tried? I’ve thought that a double insulated faceplate would prevent fogging and the snow outside is too cold to melt on the faceplate so it wouldn’t stick, like aand – do you now have gps assistance if outside during whiteouts?