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Always hated the clamp on. It marks up the frame. Braze on! BS on that stiffness bit. If the frame can't handle a front derailleur then that frame is not worthy of components.

_________________I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree

If building up a steel or ti bike, go with braze on. Same if the mount is integrated into a carbon frame's mould. Otherwise, you don't have much choice. Shifting on a clamp-on style front derailer will typically be a little better than using a braze with lightweight adaptor if your rings are problematic. However, I'd wager a braze fd with a parlee or k-edge adaptor would be a bit lighter.

Clamp-on derailleurs mount very solidly. If youre going to be using a carbon clamp, however, youre removing the clamp-on derailleur's one possible benefit. Braze benefits mostly revolve on not requiring the seat tube to be one of three round sizes. The seat tube also no longer has to bisect the bb. Many companies pay too little attention to fd mounting stiffness and adjustability, although more and more are waking up.A side note, why doesnt shimano include the fd support setscrew of di2 derailleurs on mechanical derailleurs? They would certainly be a benefit on some bikes w weak mounts.

On my carbon colnago frame the braze on has 4 pop rivets. It not going to go anywhere.

_________________I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree

If building up a steel or ti bike, go with braze on. Same if the mount is integrated into a carbon frame's mould. Otherwise, you don't have much choice. Shifting on a clamp-on style front derailer will typically be a little better than using a braze with lightweight adaptor if your rings are problematic. However, I'd wager a braze fd with a parlee or k-edge adaptor would be a bit lighter.

Cervelo's pop-rivet braze on hangers are awful. I have one on my slc-sl and it is FLEXY but my r5 has a molded carbon one that is very stiff and solid feeling . Like socratease said, braze is lighter in most cases and can be stiffer if done correctly! If you run rotor or other elliptical chainrings, especially in large gearings like 54+, sometimes the braze on hangers don't have enough adjustment however. Same thing if you feel like running CX 36/46 gearing on a road bike (I don't know, just an example that I've tried!) - where the adjustment of the braze on is normally limited.

I doubt that the 54 chain ring would be a problem for a braze on. Maybe a 60 tooth.Also it would not be good to have braze on on ultra thin tubing walls. For those a clamp is better.

_________________I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree

Stella - I experimented with a 53 t rotor ring a while back to a 7800 front d and had to dremel a little material off of the braze on as I couldn't get the derailluer to sit high enough to clear the rings (eliptical, not round)... Can't quite remember what bike it was on - I think my Cervelo scl-sl but not sure. I don't think Sram front d would have this issue as they come with two mounting bolts for the front deraill and thus have a lot more adjust ability.

_________________I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree

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