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Mix ratio and Material for Welder Coolant.

In my other thread I discussed that I'm going to be using a water circulator with my Synchrowave 200. I'm getting my adapter tomorrow for the Weldcraft torch. That will be the Q5WGT Dinse adapter that carries gas from the machine and through the connector to the torch and also takes out the return water without going back into the machine.

I understand that it's about $20 a gallon for Miller or Radnor (AirGas) and some of it is already pre-mixed (cut with water) It almost sounds like I could go broke filing up the tank. I read elsewhere that some folks use RV coolant but I don't know whether that's ethylene or propylene glycol. Yet others say you can use straight distilled water with some "Water Wetter". I'm going on the assumption that distilled water is similar to de-ionized water and would be equally as usable in a welding cooling unit as de-ionized water. I haven't a clue where to get de-ionized water.

I can't seem to find anything from Miller on the topic, either. In fact, the Synchrowave 200 Manual says nothing about a water cooled torch at all. It appears that Miller leans towards the air-cooled torches on the smaller machines.

So my question is, assuming that I use about 7 gallons of distilled or de-ionized water in my 15 gallon tank how much Miller or other brand welder coolant would I need?

Yeah I'm with sundown on this one. If there is very little chance for freezing do a 50/50 mix. If it is remotely possible for freeze, use the torch coolant straight as it comes. I wouldn't think you would need more than 4 gallons of coolant solution.

Depends on the amount of freeze protection you require. I see where you're in Calif. Will the unit even be exposed to freezing conditions.

Does the coolant have a mix ratio for freeze protection?

If the unit will only be subjected to infrequent temp drops below 20 degrees (like at night), I'd think you'd be OK with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

Are you planning to fill the unit to it's 15 gal capacity? Can't imagine you'd need to in order to provide adequate cooling for a Sync 200 torch.

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Hi, in the past when this cooler was used with another torch on my then 250/250 Lincoln, I ran the tank about half full (7-8 gallons.) It never got even slightly warm. Also, it seldom if ever gets down to 32 degrees in my area and never that cold in my barn where I have my shop. If it were only for protection from freezing, i suspect that I could do with less than a 50/50 mix, eh?

If I were to buy 4 gallons of pre-mix, I'm looking at close to $100 out the door. That's a lot more than I want to pay for this project as I have yet to recover from the purchase of the welder. LOL.

Part of my reason for using the stuff in the first place would be to prevent algae growth. The previous owner of the Lincoln used soluble oil in the mix and it had a tendency to permit algae and other unknown flora and fauna to develop.

I guess I was wondering if there is anything less expensive than the Lincoln/Miller/Radon style pre-mix?

BTW, I picked up my Q5WGT Dinse adapter for the Synchrowave 200 today and also purchased the hoses and connectors I needed. It makes an impressive pile of hoses, almost like a bowl of spaghetti.

Actually, pure antifreeze freezes at a higher temperature than mixed antifreeze (which freezes at a temperature lower than both constituent liquids). This is true for both automotive antifreeze and tig cooler antifreeze (don't use auto antifreeze in your cooler in any amount or concentration). The best mix for the widest temperature range is 60% antifreeze and 40% water, but many distributors say 50/50 for simplicity. However, some antifreeze comes mixed with water (Miller's is premixed), so you may not have to dilute it any further. Don't use pure, concentrated antifreeze (assuming you have access to it) straight. You'll only be wasting money.

The Miller coolant are not designed to be diluted. If you are looking for algea protection. And the system has had, microbial growth in it before. Fill the tank with a strong bleach (1-2 ounces per gallon) with tap water and recirculate for 15-60 minutes. This will kill any live organisms and spores. Flush well with tap water, then rinse with just enough distilled or DI water as needed to get the system to pump. Dump the rinse water and refill with distilled water or DI water. I would not worry about freeze protection if your shop never get below freezing. Goto the nearest water bed store and get some biocide/fungicide combo for waterbeds and use it to treat your system. The chemical they use is a quaternary biocide, it is a broad spectrum biocide and if is sold in the concentrated from one pint will treat 1,000 gallons of coolant, typically the solution is already somewhat diluted so read the label for the dose rate.

As far as Distilled or DI water just go to the grocery store and buy what they have as DI or distilled, it will be just fine.