Friday, July 31, 2015

For reasons that are likely attributable to the California
drought, the first figs appeared so early this year that I missed them
entirely.This is the third season in a
row that they have been ready in late April rather than late May and June.We’re now into the second round of production
and I'm finding a good supply.

If you love figs like I do, this is a very simple and
delicious way to savor their beauty: baked upside down in a brown sugar caramelized topping over a wonderfully moist and flavorful cake.The simplicity of the cake allows the figs to
shine but the cake itself is worthy of your attention.Buttermilk really lends a beautiful flavor
and tenderness. That's because it's the acidity in buttermilk that works to tenderize cakes by breaking down the long strands of gluten developed in the mixing process. And since it works so well with baking soda, it's a great leavener that produces a light crumb. I know that a lot of
bakers are now often substituting yogurt for the dairy in cakes but I really
love the difference buttermilk makes here, so I encourage you to go with the
real thing.

This cake makes a great dessert or a nice weekend indulgence
for your brunch table.Figs will be with
us through the beginning of fall.Scoop
them up!

Bench notes:

- "Room temperature" butter means the chill has
been take off and it's pliable but not soft to the touch. It should not be oily or squishy but should give just a bit when you press a finger into the surface.

- Cream butter and sugar on medium speed to avoid breaking
the fragile air bubbles you’re trying to create. This is the stage where
the texture and crumb are being developed.

- A quick way to bring eggs to room temperature is to place
them in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. Cold eggs will impact the
volume of the cake.

- For cake mixing, always add eggs one at a time, mixing
thoroughly before adding the next. The batter is ready for the
second egg when it no longer has a shiny slick on the surface.

- Scraping down the bowl of your mixer is crucial to
thoroughly emulsifying the butter and egg mixture and then fully integrating
all of the remaining ingredients. It may seem like a bother but it’s what
helps to build the structure of your cake.

- I added a splash of port to the warm honey I used to glaze the
figs as the cake is cooling.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.Lightly grease a 9” x 2” cake pan and line
the bottom with a circle of parchment.

For the cake topping, melt the 1 1/2 oz butter and pour into
the prepared pan, tilting to distribute evenly across the parchment surface.
Sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the melted butter and press to absorb. Cut
the stems from the figs and slice in half.Arrange them cut side down on top of the butter and brown sugar mixture
in any pattern you wish.Set aside.

For the cake batter, sift the flour, baking powder, baking
soda and salt. Set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 3
minutes.Scrape down the bowl.Add eggs one at a time, beating well after
each addition and scraping down the bowl as you go.Mix in the vanilla.Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating
with half the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the flour. Mix just until the batter is smooth, scraping down the bowl
throughout to be sure the mixture is fully emulsified and blended. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and gently
spread it to the edges of the pan, being careful not to dislodge the figs.

Bake until a tester inserted in the center
of comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Let the cake cool
for 15 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife
around the edges and invert the cake.
Gently peel off the parchment and cool completely. Warm the honey and glaze the figs.

Friday, July 24, 2015

If you’re in the mood for a pastry project involving cake,
whipped cream, almonds and fresh peaches, consider this one. The ingredients aren’t particularly fancy,
it’s just assembled as a stacked cake and garnished for a more interesting presentation.

It starts with a simple almond cake made with all the basic
ingredients and a bit of ground toasted almonds.It’s a thin layer baked in a 9” square pan and then sliced in half to
form two oblong pieces.The pieces get
stacked with whipped cream and sliced peaches glazed in honey lemon syrup.Then the sides of the cake are slathered with whipped cream and garnished with
toasted almonds.It’s not very
complicated but it does take some time to complete.

Peaches are so delicious right now, I hope you’ve had the
opportunity to enjoy them in a multitude of ways.This cake is just one more way to make this lovely summer
last.

Bench notes:

- I like to use sliced rather than whole almonds for cakes because they'll grind finer in a food processor. You'll need a total of 1 cup (3 oz) for this recipe.

- I used blanched sliced almonds for the cake and unblanched for the garnish. But you can use unblanched for both if you don’t mind the brown speckles in your cake.

- To toast sliced almonds, spread them out in a single layer
on a baking sheet and place in a 350 degree F oven for about 5 – 7
minutes. Watch them closely as they will burn quickly.

- Let peaches ripen at room temperature. You should be able
to smell their fragrance.I used one
large peach or use 2 medium ones.

- What's the difference between heavy cream and whipping
cream? Heavy cream contains 36% milk fat; whipping cream has 30%.
For finishing a cake like this, use heavy cream because it whips up with
a stronger loft and will hold its shape longer than whipping cream without
weeping. Cream whips best when it's very cold.If you have space, set your mixing bowl and
whisk tool in the refrigerator to chill.

- Give whipped cream just a few strokes with a whisk after it's been sitting in the refrigerator to refresh its texture.

- I cut a piece of cardboard just about 1/4" under the size of the cake and built the cake on that. That way I could lift it easily and hold it in my hand to apply the whipped cream. But that's just how I work. You may find it easier to work with the cake placed on a platter. And no need to worry getting the whipped cream to look perfect. It will be covered with the almond slices.

- Cakes begin to dry out once you cut into them so don't trim the cake until you're ready to assemble.

- Chilling the cake allows the whipped cream to firm up before you apply the almond garnish and final touches.

- Use any remaining peach slices and honey lemon syrup to either garnish your plated servings or to spoon over yogurt or ice cream.

- For more information about using ground almonds in baking,
see Almond Flour FAQs from David Lebovitz.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.Lightly grease a 9” square pan and line with
parchment, leaving an overhang of an inch or so along two sides of the pan.

For the cake batter, place the flour, 1/2 cup toasted sliced
almonds, baking powder and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process
until the almonds are finely ground. Set aside.

Whisk together the oils, sugar and eggs, mixing
until thoroughly combined.Add vanilla
and almond extracts and blend. Add a third of the flour mixture
alternately with half the milk, beginning and ending with the flour. Pour
the batter into the prepared pan and smooth it out evenly into the corners.

Bake until a toothpick tests clean, about 23 – 25
minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes. Run a thin
knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake. Remove the cake, using the parchment to assist. Invert the cake and carefully
remove the parchment. Cool completely.

For the peaches, combine the honey and water in a saucepan
and simmer to dissolve. Remove from heat and add the lemon
juice. Cut the peaches into 1/2" slices and place them in the honey syrup as you go to prevent
browning. Set aside, spooning the syrup
over the fruit every now and then to coat.

Whip the cold heavy cream, sugar and vanilla and almond
extracts to a medium soft peak. Chill until ready to use.

To assemble, use a serrated knife to slice the cake in two
equal oblong pieces.Place one of them
on a cake board or platter.Brush with
some of the peach syrup.Spread about a 1/4” thick layer
of whipped cream across the surface, leaving a small border on all sides.Line the center with peach slices.Place the other half of the cake on top and
press down gently to secure.Brush the top of the cake with
some of the peach syrup.

Spread the whipped cream around the sides of the cake, leaving
enough to pipe a border on top of the cake after it's been chilled.Line the center top of the cake with peach
slices.Chill the cake along with the
remaining whipped cream for about 1 hour.

When the cake has chilled, gently press the remaining 1/2
cup toasted almond slices into the sides of the cake.Pipe the remaining cream around the exposed areas along the top of the cake.Chill until ready to serve.

Friday, July 17, 2015

When the mood strikes and you want a slice of plain cake, chocolate usually comes
to mind.Loaf cakes often settle this
desire quite well.The larger round shape for cakes is likely modeled from ancient bread and persisted through their highest point of popularity in the Victorian era. But in modern times, cakes began to take on many different forms as they morphed into muffins, cupcakes and loaves - different versions that we can enjoy and not feel like we’re subject to any sort of penance.

This cake has a good buzz of chocolate with some spice to
round out the cocoa. It has a soft texture and isn't too rich or too heavy. I dressed it up
with some chocolate glaze for a more formal presentation but it’s really a
simple and straightforward cake that can be enjoyed plain or with a light dusting of powdered sugar. Easy peasy.

If it’s the simple pleasure of a nice slice of plain cake you desire, fire
up that oven and get going.You’re just
a hop, skip and a jump away from Chocolate Loaf Cake.

Bench notes:

- I used natural (not dutched) cocoa powder.

- Mixing cocoa powder with hot water helps to “bloom”
the flavor.

- For the frosting, stir slowly to avoid cooling it down too fast before it's well blended and creating air bubbles.

- Add 1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts to the batter for a contrast of texture and nutty flavor.

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.Grease an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan and line
with a piece of parchment paper large enough to form an overhang along both
sides of the length of the pan.

Sift the flour, baking soda, salt and spices together.In a separate bowl, whisk the cocoa and hot
water together until thoroughly blended and smooth.

Cream the butter and both sugars until light and fluffy,
about 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the
bowl and add eggs one at a time, making sure that each one is incorporated
before adding the next and scraping down the bowl as necessary.

Add the cocoa mixture and vanilla and combine thoroughly.Add the dry ingredients in 3 additions,
alternating with half the sour cream and beginning and ending with the dry
ingredients.Mix just until well
blended.Pour the batter into the
prepared pan and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to remove
any air bubbles.

Bake for 50 - 55 minutes or until a toothpick tests with a
few small moist crumbs adhering. Place on a wire rack and cool 10
minutes.Run a thin bladed knife around
the edges and lift out the cake using the parchment to assist.Gently peel off the parchment and invert
again.Cool completely.

For the glaze, place the finely chopped chocolate in a
heatproof bowl. Bring the cream to a simmer. Pour immediately over the chocolate and let it
sit for a minute so the heat penetrates.Stir gently in concentric circles until smooth.Frost the cake when it's thick enough to
spread.

Friday, July 10, 2015

Summer desserts are often served à la mode and for stone fruit pies, cobblers and crisps, this Cardamom Ice Cream with Almond Crumble is one that will definitely complement our season's best apricots, peaches, nectarines, cherries, figs and plums quite well, not to mention pears and
chocolate.

Cardamom is a spice of pure mystery.Among all the spices used in pastry, its
aroma is probably the most haunting and its flavor most unique.It’s a spice I find completely impossible to
resist. Native to India and
Indonesia, Guatemala has become the biggest producer for world-wide
consumption.Cardamom is also a spice often used in Scandinavian pastries and as a flavoring in Turkish coffee and Masala
Chai, an Indian spiced tea.

The almond crumble adorns each serving for a bit of a crunch and flavor but with or without, this is an ice cream that celebrates the distinct beauty of cardamom, pure and
simple.

Bench notes:

- Rather then milk and cream in equal parts, you can also use 3 cups of half-and-half.

- I like it as is, but after you’ve steeped the base with cardamom, taste for
sugar.Add more if you’d like and heat the mixture again just to dissolve it.

- Salt is necessary to make the flavor pop. Add just a few grains at a time and taste. You'll know when to stop.

- When cooking a custard base for ice cream, it’s best to
use a heatproof rubber spatula or a flat bottomed wooden spoon to stir rather
than a whisk, for two reasons: a whisk will create air bubbles and make it harder
to see how quickly the mixture is thickening and 2) you need a utensil that
will scrape a broad surface area of the bottom of the pan to keep the mixture
from heating too quickly and scrambling. The main goal is to stir constantly and thicken the
mixture without letting it come to a boil.I like to cook it on medium low heat for more control and lift the
pan up if it’s heating too quickly.

- Since homemade ice cream doesn't contain any commercial emulsifiers, let it sit out for a few minutes to soften before serving.

- The crumble crisps up as it cools. If you have any leftovers, store it in an
airtight container.

- Pistachios would make a good substitution for the almonds
in the crumble.

Combine the milk, heavy cream, sugar and crushed cardamom
pods in a saucepan.Stir and simmer over low heat
until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, cover and infuse for 30 minutes
or until it’s reached the right strength for you. Strain out the crushed cardamom pods.

Whisk the yolks together.Slowly add the cream mixture, whisking continuously. Pour the mixture back into the pan and return
to medium low heat.Cook very gently
just until the mixture thickens slightly, stirring constantly with a heatproof
spatula to prevent the mixture from coming to a boil. To test for doneness, it should coat the spatula and when
you run your finger through it, it leaves a trace. Take off the heat
immediately and pour through a strainer into a clean container. Add 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom, lemon juice and salt, to taste. When completely cooled, cover and refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled or overnight.

For the almond crumble, whisk together the flour, sugars, spice
and salt until thoroughly combined.Cut
the butter into small pieces and place on top of the dry ingredients.Toss the mixture, thoroughly coating the
butter with flour. Rub the mixture together with your fingers until all the butter is worked into the dry ingredients, pinching it here
and there until it collects and resembles coarse crumbles.Add the sliced almonds and combine.Chill until the oven is ready.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silpat.

Spread the almond mixture on the prepared baking sheet in a single layer so the
crumbles are close together.Bake the
crumble until browned, about 10 - 12 minutes. The mixture will merge together and look like a
sheet cookie. Place on a wire rack and let it cool
completely to set up. Break into small pieces and set aside in an airtight
container.

Freeze the ice cream base in your ice cream maker according
to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pour
into a clean airtight container. Press a
piece of plastic wrap on the surface and cover. Place in your freezer to firm
up.

To serve, let the ice cream sit for a few minutes at room
temperature for easier scooping.Serve
with a topping of almond crumble.

Friday, July 3, 2015

Yes, indeed - it’s the time of year to grab your cherry
pitter tool, put on your red shirt and pit a pile of cherries.It’s a bit of a tedious task but the benefits
make it so worthwhile.This
year’s crop of cherries is super sumptuous, so I say march onward to the kitchen to produce your favorite cherry pastries.

This cherry tart is a simply delicious way to enjoy cherries
right now.It starts with an Almond
Sablé pastry dough.The texture is crisp
and crumbly like a sablé cookie and, as we all know, almonds are a great dining
partner with cherries.This tart crust is subtly sweet with a pinch of lemon zest for an additional note of flavor.The dough is made in a food processor so it
comes together in no time.Then it gets
pressed into a tart pan so it’s completely no stress. The cherries are simmered with vanilla bean and a pinch of cinnamon to achieve their full flavor. Little pastry cutouts decorate the top.

The tart is baked in just about half an hour. However, it does have to cool completely
before serving so all the elements can set up properly.But I do guarantee you, it’s well worth the wait.

Bench notes:

- I like to use sliced almonds for pastry doughs because they will grind to a finer crumb.

- You can substitute 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract for the
vanilla bean in the cherry mixture.Add
it after you take it off the heat along with the lemon juice.

- “Docking” is the process of pricking pastry dough before
baking to create tiny holes that allow steam to escape.This helps to prevent puffed up bubbles in
your tart dough.

- Freezing the formed tart shell for one hour helps to prevent shrinkage.

- Bake the tart on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silpat
to catch any juices that might bubble up.

- Any remaining pastry cutouts can be baked off as
cookies.Place them on a baking sheet
lined with parchment or a silpat.Bake
them until the edges just begin to brown, about 9 minutes.

- You can also make this in a 9” tart pan with a removable
bottom.

- Once you remove the vanilla bean from the cherry mixture, rinse it off and let it dry. Store in a jar of sugar. The flavor is so pungent, I always recycle and reuse vanilla beans!

To prepare the pastry dough, place the flour, sliced almonds,
sugar, salt and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor and
process until the almonds are finely ground. Cut the cold butter into 1/2”
pieces and add. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.Add the yolks and almond extract.
Process until the dough begins to form clumps and holds together when pinched.

Set aside about 2 cups (loosely filled) of the dough clumps. Press the remaining clumps evenly and smoothly into the bottom
and sides of the tart pan, making sure you have an even distribution of dough.
Trim any excess from the top of the border. Prick the bottom several
times with a fork. Freeze the formed
tart shell for one hour.

Place the remaining dough clumps on a sheet of plastic wrap and press them together to form a flat disc. Put another sheet of plastic wrap on top and roll out to about 1/8” thickness. Slide onto a baking sheet and chill.

To prepare the cherry filling, place the pitted cherries, sugar and vanilla bean in a pan
over medium low heat. Simmer until the
sugar is dissolved, stirring to prevent scorching until the juices flow.Continue to simmer until the
cherries begin to soften, about another 4 - 5 minutes.

Stir the cornstarch and cold water together until there are
no lumps.Add while stirring the
cherries continuously.Cook for another
2 minutes until the juices thicken.Take
off the heat and add the lemon juice. Remove the vanilla bean, pour into a bowl and
set aside to cool completely.

Put the tart pan on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a
silpat and bake for 15 minutes. Place
on a wire rack.

Remove the sheet of dough from the refrigerator and peel off
the plastic wrap.Cut out several shapes
for the top decoration.

Fill the tart shell with the cooled cherry
mixture, draining off any excess juices. Position the pastry dough cutouts on top.

Bake until the crust is golden
brown and the juices are bubbling, about 35 – 38 minutes. Place on a wire rack and cool for at least 2 hours to allow the tart to set up properly.
Gently remove from the tart pan.