Even though it was almost 8 years ago, I remember vividly the excitement I felt when I decided to look for my dream wedding dress. The plan was to buy something off the rack, an elegant statement piece, one that people would ooh and aah and one that would take my groom’s breath away upon first sight. However, my dress was designed and made just for me, my first haute couture experience.

Shall we fast-forward 8 years as I walk into Kosibah to meet with the owner Yemi Osunkoya. Yemi is an impressive man, tall and charming yet eloquent in his approach. As he guides me through his journey, his labor of love shines through when he describes to me his journey of how he came to be one of the foremost British black haute couture bridal designers, still standing for 23 years. I ask if there is any significance with the name Kosibah. It turns out to be a derivation of his mother’s name. She was born on a Sunday and named Cosiba; he changed the spelling to make it a little more user friendly yet different and Kosibah was born.

Image courtesy of Damien Lovegrove Image courtesy of Alakija Studios

I wanted to know more about this important designer, so I delved into his background and how he came to be a designer. He explains that the compromise he made with his parents when he told them he wanted to be a designer it would be for that reason he would go to university. “If I could have gone to university to study fashion design in Nigeria, I would have done so, but there wasn’t any university offering fashion design courses at that time. So I decided to study textile design because I thought fashion and textiles go hand in hand and it could always come in useful afterwards. So when I came to England, I didn’t want to go through another 4 years of fashion school; I just wanted to learn how to sew, how to draft a pattern, how to cut fabric and other practical skills relevant to creating clothes because I could already design and was pretty good at sketching out my design ideas.” In London he attended a private fashion school called the Paris Academy School of Fashion. It’s closed now, but there he was taught old-school couture: “where you take 26 very precise body measurements from your client, you then develop a body block, from the body block you make a pattern draft and then you do a fitting on your client with a mockup/prototype of the garment you are making in toile; there’s usually some slight fitting issues that are flagged up at this stage because everyone’s body is different so I don’t deal in dress sizes, I deal in body measurements for each individual.”

Image courtesy of Kosibah

After starting his business in casual wear, he very quickly realized his methods of production were not viable and would be both too expensive and labor intensive. His business organically evolved into bridal and special occasion wear because of the way he wanted to make his dresses. “I can create whatever my client wants. The unifying factor in all my dresses is the figure enhancing aspect of them, so regardless of whether I’m using kente, or I’m using ankara or I’m using lace, or I’m using duchess satin, it’s the same couture process I use but it’s all client led.”

Image courtesy of Kosibah

Ladies, finally a designer that cares about women with curves! Yemi goes on to explain, “they obviously come to me because they’ve seen something I’ve done. I sit down with them, I look at them physically to see what would fit because that’s my basic ethos. I ask myself what can I do for this person in front of me to flatter them and make them look their best? Sometimes we minimize certain body areas and sometimes we enhance other body parts.” As a woman with curves, I begin to smile and Yemi smiles back in acknowledgment that I like his style!

Images courtesy of Kosibah

Dressing his bride is a service he offers because after working for months on a dress, he wants to see the dress in the right setting and wants to ensure it looks exactly the way he designed the piece. A client who he met through Instagram flew him to Abuja to the wedding to dress her. Ladies, you can bring the designer to you! Yemi is not only a 21st century designer but he is engaged with social media and recognizes how powerful a marketing tool it is for his product. He understands the power of Twitter, Pinterest and Facebook, “learning the etiquette of the social platforms he uses” he now has clients he would not have met under normal circumstances.

Images courtesy of Kosibah

I asked Yemi whom would he consider as his ideal client. He explains, “she is a full-figured woman because anybody that is a size 14 or under, people might just assume she’s got great body.” A full-figured woman that wears one of his dresses should expect a significant amount of body sculpting in order to make more of an impact. If you’re not sample sized, it might be more difficult to just get something off the peg which is where getting something bespoke might be your priority. Because of “the quality of the fabric, embellishments that I use in my dresses and the line and the silhouette of the finished gown, I want it to always scream class and grace.” I ask him if he could dress any bride, or create a bespoke dress, who or what would that be? Yemi immediately responds, “if Oprah ever decides that she wants to marry Stedman, she should come and knock on my door, and I will create the most amazing dress for her because she has the perfect figure I’d like to get my hands … ’cause she has an hourglass figure.” I smile and tell him we’ll have to get that message across the pond to Oprah.

For the Bride Who…
Isn’t Afraid to Make Her Day a Royal Fantasy

by Saroyah

Sound familiar? We’ve all seen it: the woman who has dreamed of her day since she could barely walk. She’s spent the time perfectly curating her Pinterest wedding board—maybe it’s not even on private. Personally, I’ve always envied these women, stalking their fairytale table decorations and flowery runways. She doesn’t shy away from being perfectly over the top, and it totally works.

Elie Saab revived the dress for this bride in his Spring/Summer 2014 couture collection. Crossing the border between floral romanticism and dream-like fantasy, it seems that almost nothing was off limits to the designer. Sheer gowns of all shapes and sizes and vibrant colors, ranging from pale pinks to dark purples and blues, and even—not for the faint of heart—black gowns, made quite the impression on the runway. The collection was fit for the cast of a beautiful fairytale.

It is this royal vibe that carried over into his collection for Pronovias, Elie by Elie Saab. In a season dominated by plunging backs, large bows and off-the-shoulder sleeves, Elie Saab has chosen to take a definitively distinct approach—restoring this wedding fantasy to the bridal world with a modern twist. Think Kate Middleton meets glamorous 1920s movie star. The combinations of lace overlay and full, delicate sleeves temper plunging necklines, keeping the designs classic.

A similar feeling is evident in Ersa Atelier’s 2015 collection. Ersa is the product of two Romanian sisters who began designing gowns ten years ago and have since achieved great success, winning countless awards across the globe. Their designs stem from the idea that a dream can become a physical reality. Using rare, handmade materials these dresses would work perfectly in a royal wedding or that of a Southern belle, since they are inspired by traditional balls. The beautifully full skirts, tulles, and light lace tops in variant neutrals are something truly breathtaking. These are the dresses for the girl who knows her wedding is the chance to be a princess, if only for a day.