It's a fine little press. It's not fast but it produces great reloads.

I load small amounts of "custom" 12 and 20 gauge ammo with it, things I don't want to do on big progressive presses. I shoot skeet in competition and I leave the big presses set up for those loads. It's no fun changing things on a Hornady 366! So when I need 3-4 boxes of light 20 ga. loads for a little field gun I have, the Load All is my tool.

Yes, I've had good luck with the press. I want to add, though, that there is a learning curve with this press, such as how to structure your reloading process. These are examples.

Usually, you would do one shell at a time, through all the stages. However, there is a safety issue with resizing/depriming and then priming the shell all at once, from one station to the next. Often, the hulls I have will stay pretty good inside the sizing die, so if I hit down on the shell hard enough, I could make it pop down right onto a primer and blow it up. The other thing is, when you are going through the stages, the Safety Primer container lid can walk back off the container body enough for the gap between the container and the chute to open up, allowing the primers to flip over going into the chute before you even know it's happened. It's a mess, so I do my shells in stages. Such as:

1) inspect/clean all hulls
2) resize/deprime all hulls
3) add primers to Safety Prime, install, prime all hulls, remove Safety Prime
4) powder, wad, teflon wrap, buckshot, overshot card and crimp all at once for all hulls before going back to step one for another batch of hulls

Another thing is, since the loader is mainly plastic, static electricity is a nightmare unless you take precautions, like wiping the station with a dryer sheet, running an entire hopper of powder through the bushing to coat everything with graphite, and grounding yourself directly to the ground wire in an outlet. If you change to a clean or unused bushing, run the powder through there, as the bushing can underthrow powder until it's sufficiently graphite-coated.

One other thing I can think of is making sure that the screws in the hoppers, which attach to the stage tools below are on there snug enough to make it a little hard to push the charge bar back and forth. You want to seal the powder off so you don't have leakage onto the table and floor.

All good comments. The sizing ring problem seems to be mainly with "high brass" steel base shotshell hulls. They can really take some force to drive them out. I have loaded 4-500 rounds on my Load All in the past 3-4 months and have never had a primer go off. I do take care to make sure the primer is properly seated on the pin that seats it. If it were off center and struck hard enough so it couldn't go into the empty primer pocket it could certainly ignite.

The sizing difficulty I had was with low brass hulls. It turns out that several so-called "once fired" Win AA-HS hulls that I bought were multi-fires. I even had one that would not resize, because the brass near the bottom would start to collapse and bell out the closer I got to the bottom. I even had several hulls that had violently distorted primers, crimp pin holes, and crimp line splits. I had to take them back. I found that the company ultimately sourced them from Graf & Sons. I will not buy hulls from G&S, directly or indirectly. I always ask suppliers where they get them from.

Has anyone reloaded cast sabots in 2 3/4 shotshells yet? Lee claims this can be done with standard shot wads, so I am curious whether it would be worth the investment. I shoot trap regularly, so I have hulls for days, and I have plenty of lead for casting.

I'm keeping my eyes open for a Mec, but have been using my load all for years.

I have yet to load a smokeless round on it though. Since I shoot CAS Frontiersman class or Frontier Cartridge, I need black powder loaded shot shells. This little press works wonders for that. I did have to make one small modification for roll crimping though, I double sided taped a piece of 1/4" thick wood under the central station so trimmed hulls would be tall enough for the loading fingers to be all the way in the hull. When doing a normal crimp I just pop the square of wood off and load normally.

My normal operation is to size/deprime, then prime 10-15 hulls, hand dip the powder, place in the center station, over powder wad, lubed felt wad, card, drop shot, if it's going to be roll crimped then another card, if normal crimp then on to the crimp stations. If roll crimp then to the side to be crimped later in my drill press.

I've used shells of every stripe collected from the range with hardly any issues, including ones with rusty primers that have shot multiple loads of black.

I don't do a lot of shotgun shooting anymore but, at one time, I used to on dove & quail hunting. During that time I wanted to do shotshell reloading but didn't want to spend a lot of money on the equipment. This was many years back &, at that time, I was eyeballing the Lee Load-All press but was very skeptical because of how cheap, or inexpensive it looked. I wasn't sure I wouldn't be wasting my money.

With the positive testimonials here, I may go ahead & get one now, even though I still don't shoot much. Maybe I'll start if it produces good results.