You will need:

20 to 30 strands of tough yarn (More or less, it varies from
neck to neck.)

A fine tooth comb with one tooth broken about 2 cm or 1 inch
from the tip

A small spray bottle filled with water

1 pull-through (Take a piece of 10 inch wire and fold it in
half. Then twist it leaving a loop at the fold. Then secure
the two end with tape. I've found electrical tape works the
best. Or you can just buy one.)

1 hair clip for humans (optional)

Step One: Dampen the mane by spraying it with the spray bottle. (Only
dampen it. If you get it soaked it is harder to braid.) Comb the mane
making sure you have all knots and such out. Unless you're very tall or
your horse is very short you will probably need a stool to do all this.
Now make sure you are in comfortable shoes because you're going to be
standing there for a while.

Step Two: Take your comb and measure out the amount of mane using the
broken tooth as a guide as to how thick the braid should be. Separate
the mane you are about to braid from the rest. You can use the comb to
hold back the rest of the mane, but I find it easier to use the hair
clip. Separate the mane you are about to braid into three even pieces.
Braid tightly down about four or five loops from the top and lay yarn on
the braid and begin to braid the yarn in. Braid down until you start to
lose hairs. It looks neater if the braids are all the same length so I
tend to use my index finger as another measuring tool to make them all
the same length. When you get to the end of the braid take the yarn
together and knot it very tightly around the ends of the hairs. From
there you have two choices: keep going to step 3 or start the next
braid. Through experience I find it easier to move on to the next braid
so I don't have to think too much. Braid the entire mane in this
fashion, even the thin hairs on the withers.

Step 3: Take the pull-through and insert in in at the absolute top of
the braid in the middle and push it down, but not all the way through.
Take the two ends of the yarn and stick them through the loop in the
pull-through. Then holding the tip of the pull-through pull the yarn
back through the top of the braid. When you let it go it should fall
onto the wrong side of the neck. This is the important part. Now bring
the yarn back and make a surgical knot UNDERNEATH the braid. Then make
another surgical knot ON TOP of the braid about one-third of the way
down and pull tight making only a slight fold on the top. Then make a
regular knot on top of that. This next tip is optional. Make another
regular knot underneith the braid. Cut the yarn a bit less than 1 cm
from the knot. The reason for the last knot underneigh the braid is
purely for looks. It looks neater and strengthens the other knots a
little bit. However, it is harder to get out at the end of the show. I
like to do the last underneith knot, or "A" Braids, just at large,
multiple day, horse shows. Do the forelock the same as the neck. In the
end it should look somewhat like this:

__________________
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8

Keeping the Braids In

You will find that you will absolutely dread the
moment you enter your horse's stall to check his/her braids. Images of
all the braids caked in mud and or shavings and all of them only half
rubbed out will flash through your mind. Your stomach may become
unsettled at the thought of all that tireless work you put in the day
before ruined and you have to do it... again. Rubbers (also commonly
known as other names) are a braider's worst nightmare, so protect your
braids. I use a mane tamer to save my work (art). Loop it around the top
piece of a leather halter that you'll leave on at night and at the other
end pin to his light blanket. I pin it with a diper pin and rubber
bands, so the horse can still eat from the ground.

Taking the Braids Out

Use a (seam)ripper and pointing it away from you and up
away from the horse rip out the top knots. Then the bottom. When you have
the braid completely unfolded point the ripper down and rip out the
securing braid at the bottom of the braid. Be extremely careful not to
catch any hairs. Also, don't be too violent. Rippers break. Make your
rip quick and swift.

NOTE: This style of braiding isn't very hard to learn but takes time and
effort to master. I strongly suggest that if you are new, to make a
practice braiding job one or two times before the show. It would also be
wise to practice your first braiding jobs on a horse that just sleeps on
the cross ties. A wiggley horse is hard to braid, especially in the
beginning. I usually take about an hour and a half to do a good braiding
job. However, my trainer can do a braiding job in 40 minutes and I know
another experienced trainer who can do it in 20. Speed comes with
experience. Also, be patient! It can be infuriating when you have to
redo a braid several times, but keep your cool anyway.

Tips to make Braiding (sort of) more fun

This refers to all types of braids - not just hunter braids ;-)
Braiding can be mind
bogglingly boring. I highly recommend having a friend braid his/her
horse with you. Though, don't expect much conversation the first time
around because you both will be concentrating too hard to talk. Once you
don't have to think too much, I suggest some of your favorite music
playing. You know you're getting good when you can sing, dance, and
braid at the same time. (Yes, it can be done, and it is quite a sight to
see.) I also prefer to braid in a busy place. It seems to make the time
go by faster. Braiding can also be a rather tiresome job, so I recommend
doing it earlier on in your day of preparing for the show. I also
suggest having food and drink with you. With a rather large job ahead of
you, you are bound to get hungry. I find salted crackers and water are
the best.

HAVE FUN! :-D

Instructions by Cait Jenkins. Please do not remove them from this site. (Although all instructions on this site are written with the intent to be printed out).