Best Food and Drink

WITH APOLOGIES TO FDR, Lagunitas Brewing Company proprietor Tony Magee believes the only thing we have to fear is beer itself. "We just like making big, scary beers,"says Magee. "Have you ever been here? It's scary. The brewery is medieval--we rule people with fear. Just being respected leads to apathy; to be feared requires something special." Magee commands beer aficionados to "embrace the horror" by downing a bottle of the firm's Hairy Eyeball brew or the "widely feared and despised" Eye of the Hairball, a wheat-wine style beer. Those who don't heed Magee's rule will be "sought out, hunted down, and forced to enjoy a delicious malt beverage." Who knows what evil lurks in the hops ferment? Lagunitas Brewing Co., 1322 Ross St., Petaluma; 769-4495 --D.H.