Its a very good streetable clutch with pretty good holding capacity. The reason I went with it was because most sprung hub disks use the spring tension to keep the spring in its place, no added material as a keeper of sorts. The clutchnet disks cover the springs so they won't pop out under high torque loads or chatter. Best disk design in the business IMO.

Well like most these days money is tight and I do what I can when I can. Don't know if I will be staying with the chip tuning thing for much longer. Its just does not give me the options that I am now needing. Direction with the car may also be changing as I am about to move to Florida and am unsure of the track availability down there. I want to continue drag racing my car, even if it means driving further. I got what you were saying before though, full torque in mid rpm is not all its cracked up to be on the street or the track. To tell you the truth, I don't know much about boost by gear. Since my last track outing I have realized I need the ability to control torque application to get to my personal goals and save the powertrain.

...didnt mean to sound like an ass...sorry... i was really trying to ask if you had actually thought about using a simple two stage mbc... set low boost and set high boost and your done...plus you can switch on the fly...in cabin...

...didnt mean to sound like an ass...sorry... i was really trying to ask if you had actually thought about using a simple two stage mbc... set low boost and set high boost and your done...plus you can switch on the fly...in cabin...

Im having my spare box rebuilt (finally getting an lsd, always wanted one) and picked up a pinion girdle from usrt, supposed to help prevent the case from flexing and gearstack misalignment leading to this type of carnage. We'll see if it works or not. Im only seeing maybe 325 hp to the wheels but smaller hotside gives that torque punch. My current stock box vibrates really bad under load in 4th and 5th. I know its in the box bc its unrelated to vehicle speed and vibrations are at different frequencies at the same rpm in fourth or fifth. The one usrt sells claims no case machining necessary vs the one aptuning sells.

Im having my spare box rebuilt (finally getting an lsd, always wanted one) and picked up a pinion girdle from usrt, supposed to help prevent the case from flexing and gearstack misalignment leading to this type of carnage. We'll see if it works or not. Im only seeing maybe 325 hp to the wheels but smaller hotside gives that torque punch. My current stock box vibrates really bad under load in 4th and 5th. I know its in the box bc its unrelated to vehicle speed and vibrations are at different frequencies at the same rpm in fourth or fifth. The one usrt sells claims no case machining necessary vs the one aptuning sells.

The pinion brace is to prevent pinion bearing race failure, not shaft spread. If you want to prevent shaft spread, you need this. http://www.aptuning.com/index.php?op...=1:latest-news
The taper bearing at the top of the input shaft is the one that will flex the case allowing the shaft to move.

Yeah that's my plan too. Once I get the one being rebuilt back, I'll take apart the vibrating wonder and see what's going on in there, although it's probably one of those situations that nothing will be obviously wrong with it and I'll just send it out for a rebuild or core it for a refurbed stock spare. I kind of doubt my own abilities in the trans rebuilding department.

Vibration is usually a bearing has gone south due to oil starvation or damage from from F.O. Since its speed related I would say it might be a diff bearing. From what I have seen in the four 02A's I have been inside the bearings with the most wear are the two taper bearings on the input shaft and the two diff carrier bearings. One had damage to the lower pinion shaft bearing. Three had gear grind issues and the magnets all had fine metal fragments on the from the slider hubs. The trans I just pulled out last night dropped a catch from fifth gear for some reason, though it worked flawlessly. Catch was sitting in the black end cover of the trans, so I know it didn't cause what happened to third gear. the upper larger taper bearing on the input shaft had a bunch of wear and had brownish heat marks in the race so I am quessing this bearing was failing leading to what happened to third. I am going to try and source the bearings for a trans and take the best condition parts from my one spare and my now parts trans and rebuild one. That will leave me with the good trans I have now and one fresh trans with a Quaife. I know the upper taper bearing of the input shaft is a rear wheel bearing on MK2 cars with drum brakes. The hardest ones to get are the reverse gear roller bearings and the smaller input shaft bearing. Diff bearings are Suzuki Samari 4WD front wheel bearings.

The vibes im getting aren't speed dependant or rpm dependant meaning i'll get different frequencies at the same speed or rpm in different gears. Most noticible in 4th and 5 th though. If i'm in 4th at 3k rpm going a certian speed, it will vibrate lets say 20 times a second. Then I go to 5 th and I'm still going more or less the same speed, the vibes will occur mabye 5 times a second. Then if i speed up to 3k rpms the vibes will occur mabye 10 times a second. I was thinking not the diff since thats final drive speeds. Its gotta be something before the final drive speed but after the input shaft speed. I wish I knew more about how the trans goes together. Maybe time to buy a Corrado Bentley.

Anyway, do you just drop your effer out from underneath by yourself? Ive never done it, Ive always pulled the engine with trans out together bc I've always had other things to do at the same time and that made the most sense, I'm worried I'm gonna get jammed up not being able to bench press it into place. I have an engine hoist with tilt bar and a scissor type trans jack with a cradle on it.

The vibes im getting aren't speed dependant or rpm dependant meaning i'll get different frequencies at the same speed or rpm in different gears. Most noticible in 4th and 5 th though. If i'm in 4th at 3k rpm going a certian speed, it will vibrate lets say 20 times a second. Then I go to 5 th and I'm still going more or less the same speed, the vibes will occur mabye 5 times a second. Then if i speed up to 3k rpms the vibes will occur mabye 10 times a second. I was thinking not the diff since thats final drive speeds. Its gotta be something before the final drive speed but after the input shaft speed. I wish I knew more about how the trans goes together. Maybe time to buy a Corrado Bentley.

Anyway, do you just drop your effer out from underneath by yourself? Ive never done it, Ive always pulled the engine with trans out together bc I've always had other things to do at the same time and that made the most sense, I'm worried I'm gonna get jammed up not being able to bench press it into place. I have an engine hoist with tilt bar and a scissor type trans jack with a cradle on it.

This site has some good diagrams of the trans in an exploded view. There are some good threads on here showing trans take down and build up.
I learned a great deal from this thread, best one out there IMHO. is a read, but its all there.http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...p!!-(I-need-it!!)

Sounds like your input shaft bearings are toast then, sorry I misinterpreted what you said.

I jack up the car and remove the axle nuts and wheels. Then I remove the bolts holding the ball joints in the A arms. After that, I pull both axles and remove the starter, shift tower, slave cylinder and the shift cable bracket/speed sensor. Then I get a block off wood and support the oil pan slightly. I then remove the trans mount and bracket from the trans to make more room. I support the trans with a engine hoist and remove all the lower mount bolts and the bolts that connect the trans to the fwd motor mount. Last things I doo are drain the oil from the trans and remove the axle cups from the trans. Then all you have to do is take the top two trans bolts out and pull the trans to the driverside. I then slightly tilt the motor down with the floor jack and remove the trans out the bottom. That's how I do it and I can do it pretty fast this way.