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ALL about the WARP-FEED

ok I'm going to attempt to organize all the info on the warp since most ppl don't go looking at the airgun site. I will fill in anything else I remember later...Please read on through my next couple of posts and feel free to ask any questions or make comments

The warp is a great way to eliminate hopper hits, that's what it was designed for, the fact that it's fast is a bonus. A 9v warp feeds @ about 16BPS, a 12v around 24.

The warp weighs 1 pound and is well balanced once on the marker. It can feed paint at any angle using it's friction disks, although only in bursts. The warp needs to stay fed to keep the balls moving, once there is not enough balls in the warp, the warp does not have enough mass to throw up the feed hose to the marker. That's why an Electronic hopper(i.e. Revy, Rico, HALO) is recommended to feed your warp. If you outshoot your warp, then you have most likely outshot your hopper.

The warp is easy to maintain and can be mounted on pretty much any marker. The things you need to keep in mind is a good ball stack, fresh batteries, and lubing your friction disks every now and then(you can use a paintball, or oil for this, don't over do it though).

quick reference on jumper settings for different set-ups.
The right set of jumpers control what activate the warp(see warp manual).

with an Iframe- place a jumper on the top(neg.) pins

with an Emag- place a jumper on the mid(pos.) pins (The connection runs into the center plug on the Emag board with a Emag/warp interface cable found at the Airgun online store)

using the vib. sensor- place a jumper on the bottom(vib.) pins(the spare jumper may be placed in the mid(pos.) pins for storage(it comes like this from the factory).

The set of four jumpers on the left of the board control dwell time(see warp manual) you want to set your dwell time to 1/4 turn, no less.

New Warp's need to be broken in when new(see manual/Runin).

It's not a good idea to use different types of paint in the warp at the same time. Different bore paint won't let the friction disks grip all the paint in the wheel properly and that can lead to the warp not feeding properly.

The warp friction disks should be straight, avoid leaving paint in the warp when it's not in use, this can make the friction disks spread apart and impair the ability to grip the paint properly. If your friction disks are not straight and have begun to spread apart you can flip them around.

The warp friction disks are spaced for most bore paint. If your having trouble using big bore paint, you can add a friction disk "spacer" or "shim" to space the friction disks further apart. This may give you problems with smaller bore paint though.

You can just barely see the shim once the wheel is assembled, the friction disks are now a bit further apart and should help with bigger paint. The thickness or the amount of shims you use depends on the paint. I have personally never had to use this method so the amount you spread the disks apart should be little by little with a lot of testing to make sure you dont go too far.

Some problems you may run into or be familiar with is the hose being to loose and falling off the adaptor or the adaptor falling off the body.

To solve the hose to adaptor fit problem, simply use the big black o'rings supplied with the warp feed and wrap 2-3 around the ends of the hose. This will give a good snug fit. If you don't have the o'rings you can purchase some from the Airgun online store.(you might find some that fit from your local hardware store)

If you want to give the adaptor a snug fit to the body, you can get your hands on some friction tape sold and any hardware store. Simply cut a thin short strip not even long enough to loop the bottom of the powerfeed tube and that should be enough. This can be done so the tape is not seen once the adaptor is on.

Another thing you can do for a great stable hose is run it through your revy, it will not only lock the hose in place but the revy won't fly off either. This method also protects your ballstack from a hit that may either knock your hose off or break a few balls in the hose.