The K16 has two power sockets, both on the right side of the bike -- the throttle-hand side. All my gear is set up for a socket on the left, as that's the hand that's usually free.

I have been struggling to find a convenient place to put a direct-to-battery socket on the left, as I didn't want to put a hole in a colored body panel, and greatly preferred not having the socket down by my leg. I also understood (but had not checked) that there was not enough room behind the left black panel (radio buttons module) to install a power socket.

I finally pulled the left side panel, and found there is an indentation in the fuel tank which provides just enough room if you use Powerlet's shallow socket, which has its terminals flush with the end of the socket:

This post covers the basics of the install --

After removing the left colored tank panel, the harness from the battery/fuseholder is routed under the center cover panel. Loosening the left two T30 bolts allows the panel to be lifted enough to push the wires under the cover:

The harness is then routed alongside the main frame, under the left rear fuel tank mount, back up between the tank and frame to the area behind the top corner of the black panel:

The black plastic panel is pulled away from the bike in the second pic; it is very flexible. Leave a few inches of harness out the side to have enough room to comfortably attach the connectors later.

The heart-in-your-throat moment comes when you put your first hole in your baby! The low-profile Powerlet socket comes with an additional rubber spacer which raises the outlet in the panel if needed. It is not needed in this application, but it was handy for determining how deep to go with the step drill bit -- 3/4" as it turned out:

Because the step drill was a bit long, I held the black panel out from the bike a bit to guarantee I would not inadvertantly drill into the fuel tank:

A note on socket placement: There is a rather small "window" for placement of the socket.

Too far to the inside, and the large flat aluminum washer which goes behind the panel will interfere with the curved plastic reinforcement ridge behind the panel toward the inside of the panel.

Too far down, and the the large flat aluminum washer will interfere with molded-in indentation for the T25 body panel screw, and interfere with the left side panel's tab (the part holding the zip nut the T25 screw goes into).

Too high up is not a huge problem, but the top of the panel is beginning to curve away from the rear of the socket at this point, so too high will end up with the top of the socket cap sticking up above the panel (tre tacky).

I used the rubber washer to help guide where to start the drill -- probably spent 20 mins. of futzing with it, checking location on both sides before I was ready to take a deep breath and pull the trigger on the drill.

From here it's a matter of threading the socket in, making up the connections, and tucking the wire harness under the panel as you button things back up:

The socket in the second pic is turned in the wrong direction -- when tightened down I pointed the wires toward the inside. The nut on the socket is 22 mm -- I found it easiest to get to with a wrench by again pulling the panel lightly outward away from the fuel tank.

Don't omit the step of putting the rubber boot on before installing the white plastic connector block. A couple spritz of silicone spray made it much easier to slide up the wire sheathing:

Install the Powerlet terminals and other half of the white connector on the harness from the battery:

Connect the white blocks, hook up the + and - terminals to the battery (or your add-on fuseblock), look for magic smoke, and test a piece of gear plugged into the socket. If all is well, gently stuff the excess harness up under the black plastic panel and reassemble the tupperware, and you're done:

That is exactly where I put the headset connection for my J&M handlebar intercom/cb. I was hesitant to drill it thinking the part would be several hundred dollars to replace. Part fiche showed $66 so I drilled away. A step drill bit as shown above is a must.

I use a step bit for about everything but the powerlet outlet. I have a hole saw that I really prefer, dill pilot from the back or front depending on what you need to clear and then saw from the finished side, always the perfect size for the outlet and makes placement easy.

Its all very nice , but not being much of an HandyMan , I prefer to abstain from drilling holes and stuff( plus dont have the equipment) . Therefore ....isnt there some kind of easier way to get 12 v for the Gerbings stuff ?? like maybe an adaptor that would connect to the BMW 12V outlet?? thank you

Therefore ....isnt there some kind of easier way to get 12 v for the Gerbings stuff

Quote:

You can connect an SAE plug directly to the battery

I used a standard BMW type DIN socket on a fly lead connected to the battery with an in-line fuse. A socket in a plastic housing costs almost nothing on eBay and has the advantage that I can plug any bike stuff into it. I use it mainly for things that the CANBUS won't take or get used with the ignition off such as tyre and airbed pumps, power inverter for laptop and tent lights. Also comes in handy when my wife does not want to ride her own bike and plugs in her Gerbings jacket. It's also useful for charging my iPhone when the bike is parked as the phone and cable are locked under the seat out of sight.

It only takes a couple of seconds to lift the seat and either pull out the cable so it hangs to the side or plug in to it and leave the socket under the seat

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