Master Sewing and Design Certification Program

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Sleeves On Saturdays

Today's sleeve is a twist on a very traditional sleeve, the Petal Sleeve. Since it's a twist, I'm calling this sleeve

The Twisted Petal Sleeve

The idea for this sleeve, believe it or not came to me this past week when I laid down to meditate for a bit. Yes, I'm one of those people!! Actually, I find it really helps to keep me calm. Just as I closed my eyes, the idea for this sleeve popped into my head and I thought it was rather fun. You're only getting the sleeve today. You'll have to come back by on Tuesday to see the entire blouse and what collar I have done to go with it.
As you can see, the sleeve is exactly like a petal sleeve. All I have done is lengthen the underarm area so that it becomes a strap that will wrap around the arm.

To draft this sleeve, begin with the basic sleeve pattern. Remember, we are using Butterick 5678 as our base pattern, but any basic sleeve will work.

Measure down 1" on the underarm seam and draw a horizontal line.

Notice on the sleeve head of this pattern that there are dots on either side of the center notch. We will use these dots as the starting point for the petal shape of the sleeve. Draw in the petal shape and have the lines intersect in the middle. Notice that my lines come down just below the line I drew in that is 1" below the armpit. The extra curve of the line is 3/8" below the 1" line.

Extend the lines out from the armpit. In order to determine how long this area should be, measure around your arm from the armpit to the center of your arm at the bicep. Be sure to add for the button extension. I added 2" as I wanted to have 2 buttons on my band.

Trace off the front and back of the sleeve.

The final patterns. I placed notches where the dots had been so I would know where the opposite edge of the petal should be placed. I have the original notches of the sleeve indicating the front and back. I also added a notch where the original underarm seam would have been. This way I will know where to clip the band when sewing.

It's a little difficult to see in the picture below, but the underarm notch is clipped and the underarm notches on both sides will just meet in the center of the underarm seam.

This treatment to the sleeve gives the look of a cuff without an actual cuff being added. It also gives a nice little peek-a-boo interest to the sleeve

So, come back on Tuesday to see the entire blouse!
Hope you're having a lovely weekend.
Rhonda