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THERE IS A HEAT SENSOR ON THE HEATER THAT HAS GONE BAD YOU CAN GET ONE FROM AN OLD DRYER OR BUY ONE FROM AN ELECTRIC APPLIANCE PARTS STORE. THE SENSOR IS LOCATED ON THE HEAT SHIELD AND IS ATTACHED WITH TWO SMALL SCREWS AND ONE ELEC. WIRE. I HOPE YOU CAN REPAIR YOUR DRYER.

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Related Questions:

If the dryer is getting hot (the heater element is working) but the clothes aren't drying, it suggests that there is insufficient air flow through the dryer. Remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. With the tube removed and the dryer running, check for hot air (lots of it) flowing out the exhaust vent of the dryer. If there is good air flow, check the exhaust tube for lint build-up or a clog that is blocking the air from flowing through the tube. If there is no air coming out of the exhaust vent with the exhaust tube removed and the dryer running, it suggests that the problem is with the exhaust fan inside the dryer.

Check for clogs in the vent air line. If dryer lint or some obstruction is slowing the air flow it will take longer to dry clothes. Also the dryer may not be getting hot enough. Check to see if the clothes feel hot or warm when you reach inside. If it feels hot enough it is likely an issue with air flow. heat and air flow are required to dry clothes.

if it gets too hot with new limit you might need to take dryer to neighbors yard and blow out all lint from whole unit from the lint filter, blower, indide and exhaust hose and also check the flapper where the air goes outside
and blowing out the lint from an old dryer with an air compressor makes a BIG MESS
good luck

???? this doesnt make much sense, can see how you would be measuring air flow within the cabinet??? air blowing out unit strong means your gettin good air flow fom within, that is a direct relation as to the amount of (hot) air being pulled across the clothing

This is one of those problems that could be a number of issues. It could be a timer contact stuck in a hot condition, it could be the operating thermostat inside the unit, or if you have a heat cycle selector switch, it may have shorted as well. Each one of these items should be tested with an ohm meter to verify which one of them is the bad part. Let me know if you need further help.