Two weeks ago was the last time the boat was in the water, and at the time, it ran perfectly. This morning put it into the water, and first of all it was very difficult to start, and then once it did start it would not run unless the throttle was significantly open. Even after warming it up it would not idle. Needless to say we didn't leave the tie-up dock lol. I did check to make sure the choke was open after initial warm up and it was wide open (as it should be).

Boat smells like it is running super rich. So is a dirty carb the most likely cause of my problem? Or would you guys look at something else first? I haven't touched the carb since I bought the boat last September. I know the boat sat for a year without being run before that time. Should I just throw a rebuild kit at it and soak it real well?

Two weeks ago was the last time the boat was in the water, and at the time, it ran perfectly. This morning put it into the water, and first of all it was very difficult to start, and then once it did start it would not run unless the throttle was significantly open. Even after warming it up it would not idle. Needless to say we didn't leave the tie-up dock lol. I did check to make sure the choke was open after initial warm up and it was wide open (as it should be).

Boat smells like it is running super rich. So is a dirty carb the most likely cause of my problem? Or would you guys look at something else first? I haven't touched the carb since I bought the boat last September. I know the boat sat for a year without being run before that time. Should I just throw a rebuild kit at it and soak it real well?

It is a 351W running the 4160 carb.

If the carb is an issue for sure, a rebuild is OK. I used to swear by a new set of carb gaskets but have changed my opinion somewhat after several rebuilds and life-expectancies of service disappointments. The carb is 29 years old.... budget allowable and you plan on keeping the boat for another 3 - 5 - 10 years, I'd spend the ~$500 for a new one.... if the issue is not resolved by that, don't be disappointed, in that, you still have a new and reliable carburetor. That and a new EI conversion makes for a good day for me...

Yes I did think to check the plug wires. They are new (have only a few hours since I replaced them), and they were all tight. The cap is new. The rotor is not new but I inspected when I replaced the cap and it looked ok. The distributor was EI converted by the previous owner. I forget which manufacturer but it is an automotive one.

I have not replaced the fuel filter since I bought the boat in Sept, so that is probably a good thing to do.

I guess the thing to do after the filter is work on the carb. I don't really suspect bad fuel because it hasn't really been sitting in the tank all that long. I burn about 10 gallons per trip, so I'm constantly renewing at least a portion of the tank's contents. I mean I guess it's possible but not as likely as some other causes.

My only real previous experience with a carb issue is my lawnmower carb (thing would run with choke on but not with choke off). Cleaned it up with carb cleaner and it ran great after that. Hope for the same with the boat carb!

edit: well, now I know that the fuel filter is not plugged. I took it out and I can blow through it no problem. It seemed like it was getting too much gas anyways, so a plugged filter was not the first suspect.

Same thing was happening to me yesterday. Took the flame arrestor off and noticed gas was dribbling in the secondaries at idle causing the loading up/rough idle. Long story short, a few medium taps on the secondary fuel bowl freed something up and it ran normal in the yard this morning.

Well I have an update. Somewhere among the action this morning at the lake, I managed to leave the ignition in the run position (not in start). The coil got hot enough over the last 3 hours that some of that resin they fill them with to isolate different circuits (it's usually black) melted and flowed out of the unit. So the coil is going to get replaced. Obviously fubared.

Anybody have any ideas on why it would get that hot -- ie is it a failure just with the coil or should I be looking further upstream in the electrical system? Never had any issues with it before. . . When it rains it pours I guess!

If the electronic ignition was designed to retain the ballast resistor, and the previous owner bypassed or removed it, that could be your problem. Simple check to see is the ballast resistor is there. You could check for a part number on the EI unit and spend a few minuted on the internet figuring out what you have.

Ok. It is a Crane Cams XR700 ignition system. The coil is an MSD Blaster coil. There is a Crane harness provided with the ignition system, and the + wire runs directly from the unit to the coil. There does not appear to be a resistor in line anywhere.

Ok. It is a Crane Cams XR700 ignition system. The coil is an MSD Blaster coil. There is a Crane harness provided with the ignition system, and the + wire runs directly from the unit to the coil. There does not appear to be a resistor in line anywhere.