Watch 101: Is the Vintage Rolex Datejust the Perfect Watch?

Mar 29, 2018

Article By: Logan Hannen

What is up, watchfam?! Today, we’re going to take a look at a true T&H icon – the Rolex Datejust, and why it just might be the perfect watch.

Christian, as you may know, is a massive fan of the Rolex Datejust. I’ll admit, it was a watch I didn’t think about much until I started working here myself and really got to get into it as a piece, almost separate from its “Rolex” association. It’s truly one hell of a watch, and not for any one specific reason.

Rolex Datejust 1601 Source: Anna Griffin

First, there’s the incredible refinement about a Rolex Datejust. A Datejust is not necessarily complex mechanically, (in that a Datejust does not have any highly sophisticated complications), but they’re super precise and professional in execution of the time and date format. The 1601 is powered by a couple of different calibers, depending on the year of production, but these include the 1575, a caliber that was used in a significant range of Rolex models that featured a date during the 1960s, as well as the 1565 caliber and, later, the 2035 and 2135.

As for the case – it’s a 36mm “Oyster” case (which possess some degree of water resistance). Now, 36mm might sound small to people used to 40mm and above, but the Oyster case helps it out in a major way when it comes to wearability because of how substantial the lugs are. And if nothing else, it possesses a powerful robustness that translated to ultimate versatility.

Rolex 1601 on wrist Source: Anna Griffin

Now, we get into variations, because there are a bunch. Everything from the colors of the dials to the bezels, all the way up to the hands and indices has at least two or three variations in existence, and that’s on the conservative side of estimates. Because of this, it’s a lot easier for someone totally new to the vintage Datejust game to find the perfect variation that would suit their tastes best. Want blue dials? There’s some of those floating around (though they’re a bit rarer than the standard silver). Want lumed hands? You can have those too (although the variety of lume is also another battle).

Rolex Datejust Ref.’s 1601 and 16013 Source: Anna Griffin

On one side, we have a solid yellow gold example with a so-called “champagne” dial, where on the other side, we have a steel case, yellow gold bezel, with a blue dial that has transformed, thanks to exposure to the sun, into an design evoking a purple night sky.It is just breathtaking. These are just two of dozens – if not hundreds – of options.

The Datejust is wonderfully versatile. It’s got such a classic, elegant design about it from head on, but with that beefy, Oyster case, it has just enough of an edge to be worn casually. A lot of it, to be fair, comes down to the strap choices. Take that blue example from above, for example, and as it is right now, it’s definitely got a more casual kind of appearance. Stick it on a Sark strap from T&H and Jean Rousseau (like the example below), and it becomes instantly a more formal option.

Rolex Datejust on a T&HxJR Sark Strap Source: Anna Griffin

Alright, geeks. Hopefully I’ve managed to sway you in favor of loving the Datejust the way Christian, Anna, and I have come to, and remember that if you’re going to try to keep it classy, then this is the piece to do it with, watchfam.