Waters on Wine: Glass closures clear advantage

One of the Italian red wines recommended this week comes with a surprise. When you open the Cusumano Nero d’Avola you don’t have to extract a cork or twist off a screwcap, you just click off a stylish glass top.

The closure means the wine tastes the way the wine­makers intended and you’ll have a something to talk about as you serve it.

Glass closures provide a sterile, leak-proof seal that maintains the freshness of wines and spirits. They have been around for more than a decade, but lag traditional cork and screwcap closures in commercial use.

Wineries in Austria and Germany have been the biggest promoters of the glass closure.

The Henschke family in South Australia use glass closures for their age-worthy red wines, including the legendary Hill of Grace, an iconic label considered to be Australia’s finest single-vineyard wine. Owner Stephen Henschke started using the Vino-Lok brand of glass stoppers after five years of research and continues to be impressed.

Whitehall Lane Winery and Calera from California are other premium promoters who have faith in the consistency and safety of glass closures.

Consumers are quick to embrace them as well. The glass top fits snugly into the neck of the bottle thanks to an gasket under the lip of the stopper and can be easily resealed after opening.

Supporters feel the glass stoppers look more elegant.

Unfortunately, the cost makes glass stoppers as expensive as the best quality natural corks and requires an overhaul to bottling lines. That’s the real reason you don’t see many glass tops.

Besides the need for a corkscrew to open a bottle, the biggest complaint about natural cork closures is the potential of imparting musty or moldy aroma or flavour to the wine. Industry estimates continue to suggest that anywhere from five to 10 per cent of wines sealed with natural cork can end up spoiled.

Yet, tradition and consumer preference for natural corks continues to make them the most accepted closure going even if they aren’t the most efficient or user-friendly.

Cusumano has long been a go-to for expressive and enjoyable wines from Sicily that offer terrific value for the money. Nero d’Avola is the black grape responsible for this savoury, dry red that offers cherry and berry jam flavours with some exotic spice and a refreshingly tart finish. The bright acidity makes this a winning match with dishes with tomato-based sauces.

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Gabbiano 2015 Chianti Classico

Tuscany, Italy

$18.95 (LCBO No. 219808)

Gabbiano is one of the oldest estates in the Chianti Classico region in Tuscany and the winery has risen to international acclaim since becoming part of Treasury Wine Estates. This is a great pizza or pasta red with an appealing mix of earthy and savoury flavours that complement meat and tomato sauces.