The Guys Behind The Grain: Distillers Get Their Star Turn

As American craft spirits continue their rise in both popularity and market share, exclusive or limited edition bottlings have become a significant part of their continued allure. This, of course, is par for the course for any product—perceived rarity breeds increased desire among consumers—but it’s notable in the realm of domestic craft spirits because it is yet another indication of their rising prestige and desirability.

This is particularly apparent with American whiskey, whose arrival at the highest echelons of the world of brown spirits would likely have been unheard of a generation ago. Certainly in my youth—I grew up in the 1980s and ‘90s—single malt Scotch, for example, was a far more prestigious tipple than bourbon or rye, which still possessed ample associations with either what our grandparents drank or, worse, as little more than conduits to inebriation.

The situation has changed dramatically, and American whiskey's ascendency--not to mention the people who craft it--has been nothing short of remarkable.

Just like with wine, provenance and parentage have become a focus among many consumers of American spirits. Master distillers, who once were fairly anonymous except among the most dedicated drinkers of their wares, have lately become revered in a way familiar to oenophiles all over the world: They have gained the recognition that top winemakers have enjoyed for generations. Mention a name like Lincoln Henderson—the decades-long Master Distiller at Brown-Forman and creator of a number of top whiskies, including Angel’s Envy, a remarkable Port-finished bourbon—and whiskey lovers are likely to swoon.

This has extended to other branches of the brown-spirits tree as well, which is growing at warp-speed. Pioneers like Chip Tate, founder of the Balcones distillery in Texas whose time there ended in acrimony, has since reimagined his career with Tate & Company Distillery, which will aim to make a mark with Texas brandy, whiskey and rum. Copper & Kings, in Louisville, KY, has also been making a name for itself with American brandy, a category that traditionally has not been nearly as popular as it perhaps should be. Robert Cassell, formerly of the excellent Philadelphia Distilling Company, has been among the leaders in that city’s rise in America’s craft-spirits revolution. He is now the Master Distiller at New Liberty Distillery, producer of Kinsey Whiskey. Herman Mihalich, the distiller and co-founder with John S. Cooper of suburban Philadelphia’s Dad’s Hat Rye in Bristol, PA, has played a major part in the resurgence of one of this country’s great contributions to the world of whiskey—so much so that it’s expanding space and production capacity by 250%. The list goes on and on.

These days, distillers are putting their names front and center more often, tying their own identity ever more publicly to the spirit they craft. Of particular note is the Four Roses Elliott’s Select Barrel Strength 2016 Limited Edition Single Barrel bourbon, which stands out for a number of reasons, not least of which is the fact that it’s named after Brent Elliott, the new master distiller since September 2015. It is an excellent bottling, spicy and powerful with notes of graham cracker, nougat, white chocolate, autumn orchard fruit, and stone fruit.

In the coming years, consumers should expect to see a continued and even increased focus on the distillers themselves, and on the sort of limited-edition releases that are captivating a market as open to them as it’s been in recent memory. They are both a result of the resurgence and growing prestige of American brown spirits, as well as a catalyst for it. The public, it seems, is thirsty for more.