Ford Mustang (2004 and earlier)

Comments

Found at the Tire Rack listed as original equip.The Eagle GAEagle GA link205/65TR15Hope that is the right one. That is a base convertible.I think you can find better tires for less money at the Rack though,unless you really need a particular brand, as in Goodyear. Not thatthere is anything wrong with the brand overall.Loren

Just out of curiousity, why go back with the OEM tires? It is quite possible that there are better (quieter, grippier, longer lasting) tires available for the same if not lower price. I know that the OEM tires on my Toyota were decent but not outstanding tires (I think they were Yoko's) and I was able to get better tires (in my case, quieter and grippier) Kuhmo's for less money than another set of OEM tires.

You may want to check the Tire Rack for other tires in that same 205/65TR15 size and read the reviews on them as well.

I have Dunlop A2 tires on my Miata, which can also be had as Remington tires at a reduced price. They come out of the same plant in China. Will be looking in the future at Bridgestone RE950, Yokohama EVS100, Toyo Ts1 ( expensive, but about the best out there ), BF Goodrich T/A, and others. Kumho, which is a Korean brand, sure has lots of tires at a great price. They sell racing tires, and seem to score well on their all season tire line of tires. The Tire Rack does testing and they have surveys. They unfortunately do not have Toyo. Toyo may not be selling those type of distributors, which is fine. Anyway, Goodyear may have a few highly ranked tires, but overall, the price is higher, and I don't see too much love from owners. How many are saying they will buy the tire again? Those cars which take real expensive tires, like the Corvette, may have to like their new shoes by a different manufacturer than original, if people like me are doing the buying. I would look for Kumho tires, and forget those run flats. You can probably go from $1,500 a set down to say a few hundred bucks. The Mustang V6 size is not too expensive, so it is easy to shop lots of brands in that size without emptying the pocket book. Go to the front door of the Tire Rack website, and select your make of car, and you can navigate to all sorts of possibilities. :shades: Loren

Good suggestion. I am a stickler for authenticity unfortunately. I will check and see what tires are the best ones when I get ready to buy tires. The reviews on the Eagle GA aren't very good. Perhaps something from Michelin might be better but I don't want to sacrifice the ride which is presently pretty good even with the Douglas tires that the previous owner put on. The car seems to be OK at 42,000 miles. I took it in for an oil change and it needed a fuel filter and air filter. Brakes were down a bit but ok. No squeaks or rattles. The tonneau cover is missing and if I put the car in shows (just as a "driver" - I 'm not restoring it to concours condition) I'll need one. I'd like to find someplace cheaper than the Ford dealer to get one. Ebay hasn't worked. The car is fun to drive -much more pleasant than the new Toyota Solara convertible I spent a month with and then sold. Sort of the difference between a guy's car and a girl's car to be frank.

I would try Toyo Ultra 800 if you want a quiet tire with w 100,000 warranty at a fraction of the cost of a Michelin tire. Toyo tires in the top of the line are great. The Ts1 for handling is said to be near perfect. The Bridgstone RE950 is a good all season, all around performer.Did look at these popular at tire rack

Another link for high performance all weather I may consider Costco for tires, though there are at least a couple - three good local tire stores as well. With the Tire Rack, you can order the tires and have them shipped ot a local dealership for installing. They have a list of participating dealers on the site. We have a local dealer with pretty good prices on Toyo tires. If you ever decide on that brand, show around. A top of the line Toyo should cost less than a Michelin. For Michelin, Costco and the Tire Rack will likely have the best deals. They seem to make deals with Costco. Good luck with the car and the tires. Are you joining any Stang Club? StangNet on the Internet may be a good additional source of info. about Mustang modifications and such, since they are owners chatting. Have fun! Wish you had a roll bar on that thing. :shades: Loren

I've joined the Mustang Club of America. Back when I had an '84 Mustang convertible in the late '80's the club was essentially only interested in "Classic" Mustangs -64-71 with most of the emphasis on the 64.5-67 models. I dropped out after a year. Now the club seems to have an interest in all Mustangs - new and old. This is probably because of all the Cobras, GT's, Saleens, etc that have been made since '94.

That would be fun but I'm in a small town and the nearest chapter of MCA is in Dallas - 400 miles away. I joined the chapter anyway. I drive over there every couple of months anyway so I can go to a meet. I'll see if any car clubs are in my vicinity but there aren't any Mustang ones in any case and most car clubs deal only in classic cars.

Hi, I am interested. I have a 1992 ford mustang and my air flow sensor needed replacing but before I could get around to it, I was driving and put my foot on accelerator to get more power and the car lost power and now it won't go forward or backwards. Did your car ever do that? Did the mass airflow sensor correct everything?

I just come across this message board and thought that maybe someone out there might have an idea about what might be going wrong with my convertible top.

I have a 99 Mustang Convertible and this morning when I went to try and put the top back up it would not work. It made the usually/normal noise the motor makes when lowering and rising but the top went nowhere. I tried 2 to 3 more times and still nothing. Waited a couple minutes and then tried again and it finally went up. Once I got it up, I figured I'd see if it would lower a little without a problem and nothing happened, wouldn't lower.

More then likely I'll have to take it into the dealer or a shop but I thought that I would ask and see if anyone has had a similar problem or any info before I take it in. This way I might have a heads up before I get snowed by the dealership once again for unneeded parts and repairs.

he owns a post-2000 mustang, purchased used in the last few years...when purchased it was Certified Pre Owned from a Ford Dealer, so he paid a premium for that CPO designation...he recently had it in a shop, maybe Carmax, where they examined the car and pointed out to him multiple indiciations that the car had been in a major wreck...my friend had no accidents with it, so it must be prior to his ownership...assuming that the technicians were correct, how could this vehicle pass a CPO certification???...I believed (with no documentation to back me up) that one of the disqualifying factors for ANY of the brands sold as CPO was that they could not have suffered major damage in a wreck...maybe a small fender bender, but nothing that would cause the replacement of the front end (which is what these folks said had happened, the front end was replaced)...can aanyone shed any light on this???...when checked at the time of purchase, CarFAX (not carmax) showed clear with no wrecks...did he get ripped off by a Ford dealer, or is he being shucked and jived from CarMax???

Hard to know without seeing the car. Carfax isn't infallible, they depend on records from the DMV. Titles can be washed, states can be sloppy. Carmax has a pretty good reputation right now, so they probably aren't lying, but the Ford Dealer may not have intentionally ripped the guy off either, they may just have missed the damage as it wasn't a matter of record for the car either.

My service manual for my 2000 V6 convertible has a section on daytime running lights. The car doesn't seem to have them and the previous owner didn't notice them. I know that they were required in Canada in 2000 but I wondered if the US cars are simply missing something that could activate them. The sales literature for 2000 doesn't mention daytime running lights under the safety section. Can somebody shed some light on this (excuse the pun). ?

Sell your car privately. I've had pretty good luck when I sold cars in the $3-10k range. I had a problem selling more expensive cars because someone could go to a dealer and get a new car, get financing, warranty, etc. for a little bit more. A dealer will - at the most - give you what it costs him to get your car at an auction. The extras are never worth what they cost you except perhaps to the end user. I know that I'd pay you a premium for a high end stereo. Don't even try and turn your car in. A dealer will simply wholesale a 1995 Mustang - it is too old for his lot -and will either take you to the cleaners on trade in value or play the numbers game and jack up the price of your pickup to make it look like you are getting a good deal on the trade. The whole name of the game is the difference. The dealer will give you $30,000 for your trade and sell the Pickup for $50,000 or give you $3,000 for your car and sell you the pickup for $23,000. Put an ad in the newspaper!

I could be incorrect - but I believe your car has the capacity to have DRLs turned on through a sequence of wierd secret codes that activate them in the computer. Your dealer would know how to do this. A nice dealer would do it for you free of charge. Others would charge you to activate them. Perhaps, you could find a friend, or a nice dealer.

I am trying to find a tonneau cover or boot that replaces the one that originally came in my 2000 Mustang V6 convertible. When I purchased the car recently it did not have a tonneau cover. I ordered what I thought was the original one from Ford but it covers the whole rear compartment, seat and all, and I can't figure out where to fasten the front of it that just hangs forward of the back seat. It will do for now but I'd really like the original. The Ford dealer says that a part called "boot" might be the shorter cover but it is $700 which doesn't seem right. Does anyone know a part number for the original boot or tonneau cover? Thanks!

ya.. unfortunately.. the OEM mustang boot cover goes around 600 to 700 bucks at the dealership! how much is a GT engine from the dealership that actually does something? gosh!! I just drove around without one, the boot that is, not the engine.

No, this doesn't apply to a 92 mustang. Older mustangs (like mine for example, a 67 fastback) where capable of exploding apon rear impact because the gas tank sits in the trunk, which is behing the back seat without anything between the tank and the people inside. You can buy aftermarket steel plates which are welded in behind the rear seat which solves this problem.

i have an 89 5.0 too and i had the same problem with the hesitation and i had the mass air flow worked on by the dealer too... only it still has a slight hesitation..and the air through my vents doesn't come through when i step on the gas... shouldn't that problem have been fixed when they worked on the mass air flow...how expensive would it be if it is the distributor and if it was at the dealer, why wouldn't they have checked all the other possibilites if i let them know the symptoms... that's what gets me .... why can't they just give me my car back and running just as amazing as when i bought it 12years ago. i still do love to drive it and would never get rid of it...i've had this car for 12years i did just get a used honda to ride to work and man when i get into my mustang... what a difference.... everyone keeps telling me i should just get rid of the mustang but i just have way to much fun driving it... i had a 79 mustang when i was younger and that car ran fast too... i just love the power these cars have.. and i just can't get that feeling from driving a honda...

I HAVE A 1993 FORD MUSTANG CONVERTIBLE AND I REPLACED THE FOG LAMPS WITH ALL NEW AND I EVEN REPLACED THE SWITCH ON DASH AND FOR SOME REASON THEY DO NOT WORK. DOES ANYONE MAY KNOW WHAT I CAN LOOK AT CHECKING TO SEE IF THEY DO WORK? THEY WORKED FOR A LITTLE WHILE BUT NOW THEY ARE NOT.

" I joined the local club - Mustang Club of Lubbock - and am putting my Mustang in a show on the 20th of August. The club seems to be very active and it will be fun to participate in shows and meets. "--end quote--Sounds great! Have fun with the Stang Club. Car clubs are great.Loren

Everyone is going to have a little different opinion on styles of cars over the years. Here is a simple question or two: Between the years 1994-98, 99-04, and the current '05, which series is your favorite style and why? What is your take on retro - good, bad, overdone, or wanting for more? I personally find something to like in all three, yet I am leaning towards a pick of a series which I thought did a great effort in capturing the original spirit, in a fresh look. You know which one I am referring to. Yeah, it is only IMHO. So there is no right and wrong here. Loren

I think they're a great combination of current styling (well, at the time anyway) and heritage cues. Taillights, fake-scoop-o-rama and the door styling all evoke Mustangs of old, but without being overly and obviously retro. Also has a certain (to me anyway) muscle-car, "gimme your lunch money!" look to it that I enjoy.

On the other two choices, while I think the 05s are great looking cars and I'm so impressed with the job Ford did, I'm beginning to find them *too* consciously retro. I know the look is a big reason for their success, but this is the first time the Mustang ever replicated a previous style in such a wholesale fashion; that doesn't sit perfectly well with me.

Also, not sure I like how Mustangs are getting BIG again...

As the years go by, though, I have to say that I like the style of the 1994-98s more and more. It's a little more restrained in style than the SN95 part II, and seems positively lithe, size-wise, next to an '05. I bet they age well, esp. the 1994-1995s with the 5.0.

I've wanted a Mustang for a long time and am now interested in buying one. I'm interested in a used stang in the '99-'04 style and either a V6 or GT. This style is my favorite but I'm not sure which source of buying would be most beneficial to receive a reliable, low-priced, non-tortured Mustang. My options include local public auctions, e-bay, regular used car dealers or Certified Pre-owned Dealers. I was just wandering which form would be the best and safest for providing me with the best condition, least-costly Mustang in the '99-'04 style. Thanks.