Foreword
Following the government’s decision on 21 November, 2013
to stop European Union integration by rejecting an association
agreement, a series of mass protests has swept across Ukraine.
2,000 protesters gathered at Maidan Nezalezhnosti and began
to organize themselves. A larger rally took place on 24 November,
when 100,000 to 200,000 people gathered on Maidan. The
pro-EU demonstrators carrying Ukrainian and EU flags chanted
“Ukraine is Europe” and sang the national anthem as they
marched toward European Square for the rally. On the night of
30 November 2013 at 4a.m. around 300 students and other
protesters who remained were brutally attacked by the Berkut a special police unit - who were armed with batons, stun grenades, and tear gas. They dispersed all protesters from Maidan
Nezalezhnosti while suppressing mobile phone communications.
By 1p.m.another meeting was gathering, with tens of thousands
of Kyiv residents coming out to protest against the violence.
On 1 December, about 200,000 came to Independence
Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) to demonstrate for their rights
and freedom. Since then, there have been daily demonstrations with the protesters committed to continue as long as
needed, until their demands are fulfilled.
Many foreigners have been drawn to Kyiv’s pro-European
rallies in admiration for the spirited people power that has
been on display and capturing world headlines. Most came
to witness what many are calling EuroMaidan – in reference
to the first demonstration.
As this guide goes to print, the protests are still continuing.
The Ukrainian people have spoken – they want a change for
the better; a message understood and supported all over the
world. Now they are looking forward with the hope for better
results and actions by both confronting sides.
Winter holidays will be long this year, and most of organisations will be closed from 1-8 January, as most Ukrainians will
celebrate first New Year’s Eve, then Christmas on 7 January,
the date designated by the Ukrainian Orthodox calendar.
Thousands are expected to join the traditional outdoor party
on Maidan Nezalezhnosti, which should be especially unforgettable this year if the protests continue.
The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you Z Novym
Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom (Merry Christmas)!

“Happy holidays!”
This postcard was created by Illia Strongovsky, celebrating
this year’s Christmas tree on Maidan Nezalezhnosti.
Officially, the police attack against peaceful demonstrators
in the early hours of 30 November started because
they were told to clear the square to make room for the
Christmas tree.
All pictures on the right side are taken from open sources..

It’s now nearly 22 years since we
published the first In Your Pocket
guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in
which time we have grown to become
the largest publisher of locally
produced city guides in Europe.
We now cover more than 75 cities
across the continent, and we will
be expanding even further in 2014
with the publication of a guide to
Johannesburg in South Africa: our
first guide outside Europe. What‘s
more, early in 2014 our already
terrific guides will be getting a fresh
new look, designed to offer our
readers a better experience. The
roll-out of this new look begins in
February. To keep up to date with all
that’s new at In Your Pocket, like
us on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter
(twitter.com/inyourpocket).

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

foreword
A new look for In Your Pocket

Rejecting an association agreement with the EU caused
huge protests around Ukraine

Never a publisher to
rest on our laurels, we
have spent the past
few months hunkered
down in frenzied activity readying a brand
new look for In Your
Pocket. Yes, courtesy
of a crack team of
top designers, your
favourite city guides
have had a bit of a
makeover; we will be
rolling out the new
design during the first
part of 2014. Many
of the changes we have made are a result of the
many comments we have had from readers over
the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts
with us about how the guides can be improved. As
such, the new look is a welcome change that brings
renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our
award-winning publications. Look out for the new-look In Your Pocket soon.
Publisher

Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 20032014. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Maps
People on EuroMaidan restraining an attack from the police
on December 11.

One of the most beautiful buildings on the Kyiv hills - the State Academy Doll Theatre.
It is located right above European Square and features plays for children from famous fairy tales.

Kyiv In Your Pocket

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & transport
By bus

By train

Meanwhile the new Central Bus Station is under construction
next to the newest Teremki metro station, most of international buses arrive at old Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi
avtovokzal). The old station sits like a hideous centrepiece on
Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency
exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and
just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian
hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is
available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00).
Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you to
the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Demiivska metro station
(blue line) is right near the bus station. Just go round McDonalds’
building, pass a subway and find the metro entrance to your right.
Central Bus Station H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, MDemiivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. QOpen 05:00 - 24:00.

The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний вокзал)
has now been joined by a futuristic-looking Southern Railway
Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms located between
the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs to the left from
the central main hall boasts comfy couches for a 10Hr admission fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs
(банкомат) are in the main halls of each station. Coin-operated
pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while
card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance.
Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi
rides to Khreschatyk Street area cost 50Hr and up. The
entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (red line) is to your left
as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M.
Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various
trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central
station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down
the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard , which
runs into Khreschatyk.
Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl.
1, MVokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05, www.uz.gov.
ua/en. QOpen 24Hrs.

By plane
Boryspil State International Airport (Аеропорт Бориспiль)
is where most international flights depart and land. The arrival
hall of its largest and newest Terminal D is located on the ground
floor. At the exit from the gates, there is an information point,
public telephones, Avis Car Rental and the Meeting Point cafe.
Currency exchange windows with competitive rates are to the left
of the gates, first aid is to the right. Ticket agents, immigration,
and customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if you
haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. Customs control has
been greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still makes sense to
travel light and pass through the green express line upon arrival.
Terminal B, to the left of terminal D operates local flights to
Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv, Donetsk, Zaporizhzhia, Simferopol and
Dnipropetrovsk.
The cheapest option to get to the city centre is to take the Sky
Bus. The bus stop is to the right of the exit, where the buses
leave roughly every 10-15 minutes. The ride to the main train
station costs 40Hr and takes about an hour. You can also
pay 25Hr and get off at Kharkivska metro station, which is on
the green line. From there the metro will take you to the city
centre in 20-25 min.
The other option is a taxi. We highly recommend an official
KBP Airport Sky Taxi, which is the most reliable with extremely
good cars and service. Pick up one of the cars right in front of
the terminal exit. At the end of your trip the driver will give you
a receipt according to the meter. The return trip from the city
is almost half as expensive. Also Sky Taxi is a good choice for
trips around the city with a rate 6.5Hr per 1 km.
Boryspil State International Airport Boryspil, tel.
(+380) 44 393 43 71, www.kbp.aero.
Sky Bus tel. (+380) 95 431 07 17, www.skybus.kiev.
ua. QOpen 24hrs.
Sky Taxi, tel. (+380) 44 281 75 58/(+380) 50 268 38
42, kbp.aero. QOpen 24hrs.
The smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни)
is only 8km from centre and handles domestic travel, Wizz Air
flights from Europe, and some flight from Moscow and Dubai.
The newly constructed Terminal A is beautiful and comfortable.
There are several ATMs, a bank with good currency rates,
a cafeteria on the ground floor, and free Wi-Fi is available
throughout the terminal. Departures/arrivals for domestic
flights are operated from the old terminal behind Terminal A.
A taxi from Kyiv Zhulyany Airport to the city centre should not cost
you more than 70Hr. Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr) brings you to Tereschenkivska street nearby Ploscha Lva Tolstoho metro station
(blue line). Trolleybus #22 goes to Dorohozhychi metro station
(green line). Marshrutka #213 (2.50Hr) shuttles passengers to
Dorohozhychi (green line) and Petrivka (blue line) metro stations.
Zhulyany Kyiv Airport E-1, Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 79,
tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08, www.airport.kiev.ua. .

Browse through visittoukraine.com for inspiration when
visiting Ukraine. This is a guide to unique attractions,
picturesque places, the most interesting events and
business opportunities around Ukraine. Visittoukraine
.com is also a reliable assistant in planning your trip: accommodation and restaurants, leisure time suitable for
taste and budget. It is a powerful informational community
to be hip to the latest news.

Winter 2013 - 2014

5

6

arrival & transport
Public Transport

Taxis

A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you
around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric
buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and
minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding.
Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but
do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children.

In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out
on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis are rare, so
you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners
are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure
to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the
impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by
phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed.
Express tel. (+380) 44 239 15 15, www.express-taxi.ua.
Etalon tel. (+380) 44 501 55 01/502 54 54, www.
etalontaxi.com.ua.
Limousine tel. (+380) 44 502 08 08/207 37 37, www.
limuzintaxi.com/eng.
SkyTaxi tel. (+380) 44 281 75 58/(+380) 50 268
38 42, www.kbp.aero. This is an official taxi service by
Boryspil Airport. They offer competitive fares and give 50%
discount for a return trip to the airport.

Metro

The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traffic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver
passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thoughtprovoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time
while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and
neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly
tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains
run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent
fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those
in other European cities. Purchase your one way blue token
for 2Hr from the expressionless booth attendant or from the
automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert
your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green
so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be
purchased from all token booths and are good from the first
of the month. There are three lines in Kyiv - M1 (red line),
M2 (blue line) and M3 (green line). Thanks to EURO2012 we
finally got English schemes and directions on each station as
well as notices in English inside the carriages.

Trolleybuses, trams and buses

These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and
babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in
a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday
Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can
be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from conductors and the driver on board. You should immediately validate
your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around
you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a 40Hr fine
by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tickets are good
for one journey only.

Microbuses and minivans

The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route
taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes.
Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the
same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted
on the vehicle’s windshield or side window before it speeds
by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you from A to B faster than
other forms of municipal transport, as they are smaller and
more manoeuvrable; an important feature on Kyiv’s jammed
roads. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver
“na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the stop, please”) when you’ve
had enough. Fares are paid as you board and currently range
from 2.50 to 3Hr.

Funicular

Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers between Podil, on the bank of the Dnipro, and the heights of
Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting
from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro
River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and
souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may
forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova
ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for adults, and
children under seven ride free.

number of the train
to/from stations
seat/berth number
passenger’s name
final price
arriving date and time

Buying train tickets
For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket
at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Central (or Southern)
terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not speak
English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good
idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on
a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time.
Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the
destination city name in English as well as your name. You will
be asked to provide a passport when boarding. Aside from the
train station, you can buy your tickets at the Central Ticket Office on Tarasa Shevchenka bulv., which accepts credit cards.
Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost
everywhere. Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/en/ for train schedule
and ticket booking.
Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. 1,
MVokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. QOpen 24hrs.
Central Ticket Office G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv.
38/40, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. A

iv Dnipra

роїв Дніпра

Minska
Мінська

Obolon
Оболонь

Petrivka
Петрівка

Tarasa Shevchenka
Тараса Шевченка

Kontraktova Ploscha

Lisova

Контрактова площа

Лісова

Poshtova Ploscha

ота Khreschatyk
Vorota Хрещатик
atralna
t

Поштова Площа

Maidan Nezalezhnosti
Майдан Незалежності

Arsenalna

Палац спорту

Дарниця

Лівобережна

Hidropark

Lva Tolstoho Dnipro Гідропарк

Льва Толстого

Chervonyi Khutir

Дніпро

Червоний Хутір

Klovska

Кловська

Olympiiska

Boryspilska

Pecherska

Олімпійська

Бориспільська

Печерська

Palats Ukraina
Палац Україна

Vyrlytsia

Druzhby Narodiv

Lybidska
Либідська

Вирлиця

Дружби народів

Kharkivska

Vydubychi

Харківська

Видубичі

Pozniaky

Demiivska

Деміївська

Holosiivska

Голосіївська

Чернігівська

Livoberezhna

Арсенальна

т

Palats Sportu

Darnytsia

Chernihivska

Позняки

Slavutych
Славутич

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Osokorky
Осокорки

Driving in Kyiv
Most westerners will find driving Kyiv’s main thoroughfares relatively easy. The problems kick in when you drive
anywhere outside these well-surfaced and signposted
routes. The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basically
wretched, especially after the winter thaw.
Another problem is road markings, especially the allimportant centre line, often go missing. In this case you
should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where
the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand
your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you
have a special green arrow next to the red light.
Booklets containing all official rules of the road can be
purchased in Ukrainian and Russian just about anywhere
books are sold. Rules in English have been spotted at the
book market near the Petrivka metro station.
The following is a shortlist of unofficial rules of the road:
- If you’re running late during peak, feel free to drive on
sidewalks, cut through the park or drive in the opposite
lanes against the flow of traffic.
- If your Lada overheats, just leave it in the lane where
it stalled and come back later after the traffic jam you
just caused dies down.
- If you’re driving on the highway and miss your exit,
pull over into the right lane, turn your hazard lights on
and proceed in reverse until you get back to the exit you
wanted. Don’t worry about the cars speeding towards
you; they are likely to get out of the way.
- Wearing your seatbelt can be very irritating and can
even cause injury. To disable that annoying seat belt
alarm, try stuffing a small piece of cardboard into the
buckling mechanism.
In an attempt to eliminate theses and other idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the world’s
worst road safety ratings, fines were increased in November 2008 by as much as 10 times. Drivers can now expect
to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr
for major violations such as drunk driving. New seat belt
and helmet laws will be enforced. The days of being able
to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end,
hopefully. Traffic patrol will be required to use video and
photo surveillance for all traffic stops.
Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two
months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with
the National Auto Inspector (DAI).
Parking is often impossible in the city centre, despite the ability to park on sidewalks. Many parking spaces are marked as
pay zones and require special tickets. These parking passes
can be purchased from parking attendants (3-10Hr per hour,
each ticket is good for one hour). Failure to display the proper
parking ticket can result in your car being booted.

Winter 2013 - 2014

7

8

Basics
Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland,
Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at
borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian
wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched!
You should expect close inspection of your documents and
belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers
need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t
be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their
embassies in Kyiv (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

Drinking
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to
boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign
brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of horilka
(vodka), which flows freely at many parties and gatherings.
Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good
samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops,
the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether
it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at
some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner.

Crime & Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre
away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target
of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place, which was proved
during EURO2012. However as in most cities, flashing large
amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to
disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets
at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is
always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially
from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to
carry at least a copy of their passport with them at all times.

Customs
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of
customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres
of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco.
Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes,
though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a
written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a
customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the
value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended
up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.)
A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and
taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food
products should not total more than two kilograms, and there
should not be more than one package of the same product.
Goods with a total value of less than €2000 may be brought
in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods
is greater than €2000, but less than €10000 they will need
to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If
the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the goods
will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import
declaration requirements for imported cargo.
Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any
international alert and you have documents which prove your
right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will
need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the
State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values
Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (T.Shevchenka bul’v. 3,
tel. (+380) 44 279 53 40/(+380) 44 279 56 47.)
All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must
be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed
over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost.

Kyiv vs. Kiev
No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league.
These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respectively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated.
Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian version, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally
preferred in Ukraine.

Communism
Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses
to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and
nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to
socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international
news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organization savagely vandalised Kyiv’s sole statue of Vladimir Lenin.
Most people, Ukrainians included, think of the Bolshevik
Revolution as a Russian revolution - this is inaccurate.
Many top revolutionaries (Leon Trotsky, Gregory Zinoviev, V.
Volodarsky) were, in fact, from Ukraine. Also, many prominent
Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was
born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. Nikita Khrushchev moved
from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the
ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv.
Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and
memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a
famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as
many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence
showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet
leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism.
Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently
being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known
as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with
the complete annihilation of political rivals including fellow party
members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone
else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered
the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had
millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps).
Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Basics
Disabled travellers
Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High
curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train station does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport
system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair
symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in
question specifically caters to disabled guests.

Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical
current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round
pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins.
Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for
their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own.

Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the
transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be
confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been
transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper
bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and
500 hryvnias. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2,
5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem
finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from
central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash,
look for a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become
plentiful in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take
Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular.
There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in
upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice
before charging it.

Smoking
From December 16, 2012 smoking is prohibited in all public
places. The new law sets a total ban on smoking in restaurants,
bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), cultural, medical,
educational and sport institutions (including playgrounds and
stadiums), public transport (including stops), underpasses
(subways), and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and
lifts). All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels,
airports, railway terminals) should have designated smoking
areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines
from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law.

To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number - last
7 digits of the telephone numbers in our guide forego
by 44 - Kyiv city code. If the number is forego by other
numbers (i.e. 67, 97, 98, 50, 95 etc.) dial 0 and then full
9 digits number. To make a long-distance telephone
call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city
code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial
0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (44) and then
the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait
for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city
code and number itself.

Roaming

To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by
the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile
phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code.

Kyiv In Your Pocket

Tipping
Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule
exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their
bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner!
Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent,
so read the fine print or ask.

Visas
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra,
Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia,
Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the
Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90
days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained
from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices
varying depending on the type and length of visa requested.
Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain
days of the week, so call ahead.
Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the
exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must
obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration
card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to
register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid
in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional
information, call (+380) 44 286 45 04.
Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply
for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private
visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation,
or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue
state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase
national medical insurance, and must register their passports
with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are
usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also
required. For more information, call (+380) 44 537 52 03.
Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU,
Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter
Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors,
visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau
airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors
planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa.
For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21.
Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S.,
Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American
countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90
days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa
at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call
(+380) 44 234 00 40.
Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European
Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel,
Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may
enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must
apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For
more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380)
44 284 00 40, Hungarian (+380) 44 238 63 81, Slovakian
(+380) 44 234 06 06.
For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone numbers see kyiv.inyourpocket.com. In many cases, the consular
section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart
from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by
calling before you go.

A Ukrainian sport sensation! This is a first
time that Ukraine hosts
this international skating competition. Skaters from over 20 countries will take par t in
this event. The special
guest of the last day’s
final performance will be the Ukrainian band “Boom Box”.
The programme:
18 December, 16:00: Competition day
Pairs – short programme
Women – short programme
Ice dancing – short dance
19 December, 14:00: Competition day
Men – short programme
Pairs – free skate
Ice dancing – free skate
20 December, 14:00: Competition day
Women – free skate
Men – free skate
21 December, 17:00: Final Show
Awards ceremony and gala concert.
QTickets 30-400, 80-1200 for the final show

Armin Only Intense
28 December 2013
International Exhibition Centre, 21:00
Armin van Buuren is returning to Kyiv to perform his lengthy
show bringing the same experiences and moments that have
brought millions of people together on all continents. Twelve
thousand visitors in Kyiv will live a musical journey performed
by the Nr.1 DJ in the world. Kyiv also will be the first city he
visits after the Dutch premiere, which will be part of the world
tour “Armin Only Intense 2013-2014”.
QTickets 450 - 800Hr.

Sarah Brightman. Dreamchaser
Circus Africa
27 December 2013 - 05 January 2014
Palace of Sport
The French circus Fenix presents their new programme Circus
Africa at the Palace of Sport. The stage will be the main area
for a spectacular show with acrobats from Ethiopia, Tanzania, Egypt, Australia and South Africa. All performances will
accompanied by the African orchestra, playing incendiary
national melodies; allowing one to feel the breath of the
Black Continent. This is a really great way to spend time
with your family.
QTickets 100 - 650Hr. Show starts at 12:00, 15:30, 19:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

14 February 2014
Ukraine Palace, 19:00
Sarah Brightman’s soprano voice has sold millions of records
and has been heard in arenas, cathedrals, and Olympic
stadiums around the world. She is scheduled to perform at
Ukraine Palace in Kyiv on Valentine’s Day. We wish you a most
romantic night with this brilliant voice.
QTickets 590 - 5990Hr.

Depeche Mode
The Delta Machine Tour

26 February 2014
International Exhibition Centre, 18:00
Originally a product of Britain’s new romantic movement,
Depeche Mode went on to become the quintessential
electro-pop bands of the 1980s. Slightly over 6 months after
their fantastic performance last June at Olimpiysky Stadium,
Depeche Mode returns to Kyiv to perform another concert on
their Delta Machine Tour. The concert in IEC will be identical
to the great one they previously performed at the stadium.
QTickets 690 - 1490Hr.

Winter 2013 - 2014

11

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Culture & Events
and books on and art, plus workshops and book readings by
authors. There will be great fun in the Art Arsenal and winter
open-air games. There will be various musical performances,
Christmas sweets, and more. Then on December 19, St
Nicholas will be come and visit the children which will surely be
a memorable experience. Q Tickets 50Hr.

Sukhishvili National Georgian Ballet
07-08 March 2014
Ukraine Palace, 19:00
Three generations of the Sukhishvili family have dedicated
their lives to the Georgian National Ballet. It is now represented by Nino and Iliko Sukhishvili Jr., The Georgian National Ballet
has seventy dancers and a small orchestra. This Georgian
dancing reflects the emotionally daring spirit of the Georgian
nation, and its invincible vitality with touches of romanticism.
QTickets 150 - 1250Hr.

Titanic Exhibition
Until 16 March 2014
NSC Olimpiysky
This sensational exhibition has been already visited by hundreds of thousands of visitors. Now the residents and guests
of Kyiv will also be able to see fragments of the legendary
liner, whose history, though more than one hundred years after
the actual event, continues to fascinate and excite millions of
people worldwide. This is a unique chance to go back in time
and experience the drama of those events. The exhibition
presents real relics from the Titanic and you can get to know
some the technical details of the ship. But more importantly
you can feel the unique atmosphere of bright dreams, ambitious
undertakings, and the shiny luxuries that are part of her history.
Q Tickets 130 - 150Hr.

Christmas Arsenal
18-29 December 2013
Art Arsenal
At this largest of all Christmas fairs in Kyiv you will find the
best gifts for all winter holidays and celebrations, and have a
wonderful time in this warm festive atmosphere. One feature
scheduled is the giving of gifts for children and adults from the
top 100 hand-crafters of Ukraine. There will be children’s books,

Igor Gubskyi Exhibition
Until 9 February 2014
The Manufactura Art Gallery is located at the recently
opened unique Manufactura Outlet Village, located about
20 km from Kyiv on the Obukhiv Highway. At the 29 November grand opening, an exhibition of the personal works
of Igor Gubskyi took place. His artistic talent is acclaimed
not only in Ukraine, but also abroad. Igor’s works are often
compared to the works of Velazquez’s. The exhibition represents his works starting from the first years of studying
at the Kyiv State Institute of Art. Gubskyi’s canvases have
been displayed in the National Art Museum of Ukraine, the
State Tretyakov Gallery (Moscow, Russia). Many of the
paintings belong to private collections, and to museums
in Sweden, Canada, and Chicago and New York in the USA.
Manufactura Art Gallery Hodosiivka Vallage,
Obukhiv Highway 2, tel. (+380) 50 424 28 88 /
(+380) 44 200 97 47, www.manufactura-art.com.

Until 16 February 2014
Kyiv History Museum
Nikas Safronov is one of the most prominent contemporary
Russian artists working equally well in many genres. His
artworks are familiar to most viewers from reproductions
printed in magazines. This is because the bulk of the artist’s
paintings are in private collections in Russia and abroad, as
well as museums in Western Europe and the US. Western
collectors have bought more than 800 of his paintings. Over
120 works of the artists’ portraits, landscapes and surreal
narrative compositions will be on display to the public. 30
of these have been gathered from private collections and
will be on display to the public for the first time.
Kyiv History Museum B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 7,
MTeatralna, tel. (+380) 44 520 28 26. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00, Fri-Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Tickets 60Hr.

The building of the National Opera & Ballet of Ukraine was established in 1867, but in 1896 after the performance
of Eugene Onegin by Peter Tchaikovsky, a fire erupted and the building was destroyed.
The present building was designed in the so called Viennese Modern style and was built in 1901.

Kyiv In Your Pocket

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay
Cream of the Crop
Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv D-3, Naberezhno-Khresh-

chatytska 1, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 322
88 88, fax (+380) 44 322 88 99, kyiv@fairmont.com,
www.fairmont.com/kyiv. A great Luxury hotel right on
the river Dnipro. Seldom have we been more impressed by
a hotel’s elegance. Marble floors, stained glass windows,
lovely chandeliers, and a stunning classic design and it goes
on. Each of the 258 rooms is fully equipped and beautifully
designed with large comfy beds. There are also Presidential
and Royal Suites for all you presidents, kings and queens.
There are discounted rates for weekends and package offers
are available. The entire staff is friendly and great in English.
Their restaurant The Strand Grill is open to the public daily
from 06:30-midnight. Breakfast is not included and costs 35€.
Q258 rooms (Rates €319 - 2000). PZTHAUFL�
GKDwW hhhhh

Holiday Inn Kiev H-4, Cher vonoarmiyska 100,

MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 363 30 00, fax (+380)
44 363 30 03, sales.hikiev@ihg.com, www.holidayinn.
com/Kiev. Holiday Inn has found its place in our city on a
quiet lane locked between two business streets. It features
all your Holiday Inn favourites including the usual agreeable
208 rooms. Facilities include business centre, conference
room, restaurant and bar with terrace, fitness area on 11th
floor with panoramic view. Wi-Fi is free all over the hotel. In the
best of HI traditions, the hotel is perfect for business travellers and you know exactly what you are going to get for your
money. Q208 rooms (180 Standards €150, 26 Executives
€175, 2 Suites €225). PHAUFLGKW hhhh

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, MMaidan
Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44
581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency
Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka
Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and
leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and
ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and
25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global
business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor heating, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers create
a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting and
banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function space
accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large-scale
events. Luxurious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments,
a gym with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool,
restaurants and bars make Hyatt Regency Kyiv one of the
best hotels in Kyiv. Q234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, deluxe €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, regency suite €578 - 835).
PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Intercontinental C-3, Velyka Zhy tomyrs’ka 2A,
MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 219 19 19,
www.intercontinental.com/kiev. Intercontinental has
been setting the bar in the hotel industry for decades, and
its expansion into the Kyiv market represents a much needed
infusion of competition in the “cream of the crop” end of the
accommodation spectrum. Its location near Mykhailivs’ka
square offers tourists and business travellers access to the
best Kyiv has to offer. Rooms range from stylish to elegant and
come equipped with all imaginable amenities. Notable hotel
facilities and services include a fitness centre, swimming
pool, spa, business centre and travel services. Conference
facilities can accommodate a whopping 800 participants, and
the stunning ball room seats 400. Located on the 11th floor,
the b-Hush Rooftop Caviar Bar is open for dinner and offers

Winter 2013 - 2014

15

16

Where to stay
Symbol key
P Air-conditioning

L Guarded parking

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

T Child friendly

M Nearest metro station

H Conference facilities

G Non-smoking rooms

A Credit cards accepted

K Restaurant

J City centre location

D Sauna

F Fitness centre

C Swimming pool

U Facilities for the disabled W Wi-Fi internet access
an impressive selection of exclusive dishes and an unforgettable view of the city centre. Brimming with tasty Italian and
Mediterranean cuisine, Olivera is your laidback dining option,
and Comme Il Faut is an elegant French restaurant offering
the finest in Parisian inspired cuisine. Q273 rooms (standard
€350 - 388, deluxe €380 - 488, €389 - 535, club executive
€640 - 678, suite €840 - 1038). hhhhh
Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, MUniversytet, tel./
fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, reservations@opera-hotel.
com, www.opera-hotel.com. The Opera Hotel is a luxury
boutique hotel which offers something unique for its guests.
Staying in the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite
interior design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of
exquisite wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right
at home, although home may be oceans away. The Opera
Hotel is located just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and
Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s
business and social life, but away from the busy downtown
area. Business club, lobby lounge, conference rooms and spa
and fitness club are all a part of the luxury facilities offered
to guests. Q136 rooms (classic 1900 - 2800Hr, standard
2200 - 3400Hr, superior 2800 - 4000Hr, junior suite 4600
- 5800Hr, executive suite 7000 - 8200Hr). POARU�
FLGKD hhhhh
Premier Palace A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./Pushkins’ka
5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 244 12 01/
(+380) 44 244 12 11, fax (+380) 44 279 87 72, info@
premier-palace.com, www.premier-palace.com. Kyiv’s
first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. Each room
has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, along with a
telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous fitness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened to guests from
07:00 to 23:00. Q289 rooms (142 classic €325 - 395, 115
premier €425, 29 suite €495 - 625, 3 apartment €1200 3500). POHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Radisson BLU B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 492 22 00, fax (+380) 44 492 22 10, reservations.kiev@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com.ua/
hotel-kiev. Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for
excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson BLU Kyiv offers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the clock,
and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy concierge
is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished in three different styles, include plenty of satellite TV channels, in-house
movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, safe and hairdryer.
Business class rooms and suites are more spacious and include
a few extra perks like buffet breakfast and daily newspapers.
The hotel is well geared-up for events, with its state-of-the
art conference facilities available for meetings or banquets.
Q255 rooms (183 standard €202 - 293, 49 business class
€252 - 343, junior Suite €303 - 394, suite €626, 1 Presidental
€1111). Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room.
PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhh

Kyiv In Your Pocket

Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil D-2, Bratska 17-19, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 393 13 73, info.podil.kiev@
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.ru/hotel-kyiv-podil. A
latest entry in Podil historical district for this famous hotel chain.
Rooms are ranged traditionally for Radisson BLU worldwide
from standards to suites, meanwhile if you’re a President, the
Presidential Suite awaits for you for about 10000Hr. There is a
gym and convenient underground parking. The Starokyivsky
Restaurant & Lounge has gorgeous marble furnishing and a
classic, elegant interior, creating an ideal dining atmosphere. The
chef treats guests to delicious international and Ukrainian main
courses, pastries and deluxe desserts. The wine list has an wide
selection of international and local wines. There is seating for 70
and an average meal will run around 400Hr. There is a business
lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00 from 97Hr. The Cafe 17 is a
nice bright coffee shop with a street entrance. There are sandwiches, salads, and pastries all at reasonable prices. Q164
rooms (138 standards, 2 for disables, 15 business rooms, 5
suites, 1 presidential). PiHAFLGKDW hhhh

Upmarket
11 Mirrors Design Hotel A-3, Bohdana Khmelnytskoho 34A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 11 11,
info@11mirrors-hotel.com, www.11mirrors-hotel.com.
Either we did not noticed it before or it was covered with a green
fence, but the building of this design hotel popped-up suddenly
in the very heart of the city centre, enclosed by embassies,
theatres, and churches. The rooms are big in a modern but
incredibly spacious style with bathrooms designed as transparent glass cubes (highly recommended for couples are staying
there!). The windows overlook one of our favourite streets Bohdana Khmelnytskoho. The amenities include the usual list
found in upmarket hotels. Q49 rooms (19 doubles €275, 10
junior suites €300, 20 suites €335). PiAULGKW
ALFAVITO H-4, Predslavyns’ka 35D, MPalats Ukraina,
tel. (+380) 44 220 45 75, fax (+380) 44 220 45 76, info@
alfavito.com.ua, www.alfavito.com.ua. This lovely 4-star
hotel has a classic/modern design and is located just a 2 minute
walk from Palace Ukraina. All 251 rooms are ideal for business
people: telephone, free Wi-Fi Internet access, safe, minibar,
interactive TV, air conditioning system. There are rooms for allergy sufferers and the disabled, and all staff have an excellent
command of English. Rooms run from 107€ per night. There are
several seminar and conference rooms and a complete range of
business services are available. A unique feature is their “Café
Forte” which is not just a spacious and comfortable lounge, but
an art gallery as well. Exhibits are constantly changing and the
beautiful works may be purchased. There is also a bar where
meals can be taken as well as the very elegant dining room. The
menu is in English and the cuisine is European and Ukrainian
with an average meal costing 400Hr. Restaurant is open 11:0023:00. Q251 rooms (8 singles, 215 doubles, 19 superiors, 2
business, 4 deluxe, 2 suites, 1 apartment, additional bed €30 ,
breakfast €20). PHAULKW hhhh
Bakkara Art-hotel K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near the
Metro Bridge), MHydropark, tel. (+380) 44 369 31 31,
www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely
a fine addition to Kyiv hotel scene. The hotel offers charm and
class with prices that make sense. The rooms are fashionably
decorated and comfortable. Room amenities include air conditioning, electronic security system, TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe,
hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with direct international access
and striking views of the Dnipro River and picturesque right
bank. Every morning from 7:00 until 11:00 am everyone may
enjoy buffet breakfast in the restaurant. The conference room
can accommodate up to 80 persons and comes fully equipped.
Q200 rooms (standard 790Hr, classic 930 - 1030Hr, deluxe
1500 - 1650Hr, luxe 2500 - 2800Hr). PHALKW
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Winter 2013 - 2014

17

18

Where to stay
Boutique Hotel Riviera D-3, I-1, Sahaidachnoho 15,

MPoshtova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, fax
(+380) 44 581 38 38, info@rivierahotel.com.ua, www.
rivierahotel.com.ua. Riviera hotel is located in the historical
part of Kyiv - in Podil. Such a suitable location makes it easy
to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the city such
as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka squares and
Khreschatyk street. Through the windows of your room you
can enjoy the view of the Dnipro River and historical Podil. Each
room includes controlled air-conditioning. Home-like cosiness,
high-quality service and an individual approach to each guest
makes Riviera Hotel attractive to business travellers and tourists alike. Q79 rooms (comfort €220, business €240, junior
suite €290, executive suite €350, deluxe €420, presidental
suite €1000). PHARUFGKDW hhhh
Cosmopolite E-2, Vadyma Het’mana 6, letters A, А’,
MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 205 35 20, fax (+380)
44 205 35 21, info@cosmopolite-kiev.com, www.
cosmopolite-kiev.com. The new business hotel is built in
Constructivism style, which suites to the surrounding area
and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall nearby. But except of bright
avant-garde façade, the hotel has truly impressive interior.
Each of the hotel’s five floors is designed in a style dedicated
to one of the prominent artists of Constructivism and holds a
small museum room of each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t
central, however staying there you’ll be within easy access to
all major business and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes ride
by Peremohy prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped
with working area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business
visitors there is a business centre and business areas on
each floor. Q160 rooms (143 Standard 1761Hr, 7 Junior suite
2282Hr, 10 Suite 2699Hr). PZiHAUFLGKW
Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti,
tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) 44 254 67 65,
reservation@dniprohotel.ua, www.dniprohotel.ua/en.
One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey
hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, political
and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms are
recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spectacular
view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have air-conditioning, internet, satellite TV and individually controlled central heating.
Q186 rooms (87 singles €73 - 99, 51 doubles €89 - 155,
7 junior suites €160 - 180, 41 suites €165 - 240). PO�
HARFLGKDCW hhhh
ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard G-2, T. Shevchenka
bul’v. 25, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22,
fax (+380) 44 591 22 33, h7143@accor.com, www.
ibishotel.com. This beautiful new hotel is one of the best
we have seen come along in awhile. The décor is a unique
quasi art-deco-modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently
priced restaurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a
24hrs bar. All rooms are fully equipped and range from 790Hr
for a double to 2850Hr for a suite with a conference area, bar,
and king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful and English
speaking. Breakfast 120Hr. Q212 rooms (113 doubles 790
- 1090Hr, 72 Twin 790 - 1090Hr, 1 Suite 2850Hr, 5 rooms
for disable 790 - 1090Hr, 21 Family Room 1170 - 1400Hr).
PZA6UGKW hhh
Lybid G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380)
44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44
236 63 36, reception@hotellybid.com.ua, www.hotellybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s
founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv.
All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture
plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer.
Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size
bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area,
as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central

losiivska, tel. (+380) 44 219 11 55, fax (+380) 44
219 11 41, booking@hotelgolosievo.com.ua, www.
hotelgolosievo.com.ua. Recently built in one of the most
beautiful Kyiv parks, Park Hotel Golosievo is recommended
for business travellers. The hotel is located in 5 min walk from
Holosiivska metro station and it takes less than 15 minutes to
reach the city centre. All room are decorated in warm colours
and equipped with all facilities expected in 4-stars hotel. The
Beer Garden restaurant with Bavarian cuisine is an excellent
addition to the hotel. A children playground outside the hotel
is a nice place for kids. Q53 rooms (18 suites 1350 - 1900Hr,
25 apartments 2500 - 3800Hr, 10 standard 850 - 1150Hr).
PiTALGKW

bychi, tel. (+380) 44 205 15 15, fax (+380) 44 205 15
16, info@encorekiev.com, www.ramadaencorekiev.
com/eng/. Though Ramada Encore is located a bit far from
the city centre, it takes only about 20 minutes to get to the
city centre by a shuttle bus (stops at Yevropeyska Square),
which is free and goes according to schedule. Ramada Encore
is a completely new 20-story building, housing hotel rooms
and long stay apartments. All of them are done up in bright
colours with a modern style. The rooms are equipped with
wooden floors, large windows and fabulous bathrooms. The
conference centre (1,200 sq.m) is located on the 1st and 2nd
floors. The hotel’s Lobby bar and La Moda Italian restaurant
with a 180 people capacity are located on the 1st floor, while
two gyms are located on 3rd and 18th floors. Breakfast is
not included in the price. Q322 rooms (257 standards €99
- 109, 7 superiors €110 - 120, 20 studios €135 - 145, 38
apartments €185). PZHAUFLGKW hhh

Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44
256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 40
05, reservation@hotelrus.kiev.ua, www.hotelrus.kiev.
ua/en. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms
on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering superb
views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary depending
on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both
singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart and well
furnished however. There is also a business centre and three
conference halls are at your disposal. Prices are cheaper at
the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays. Q450
rooms (Standard 900 - 1170Hr, Business class 1270Hr, Suite
1700 - 4000Hr). PHARLGKW hhh

Dmytrivska 62/20, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44
220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, executivecourt@
senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments.
com. Located in a newly constructed building in a quiet
neighbourhood on the edge of downtown, the Executive Court
property includes all the great amenities as the City Centre
location. The advantage of this locale is its close proximately
to supermarkets and the Ukraina shopping mall. Long-term
and corporate rates are negotiable. Q (classic rooms €115
- 130, standards €125 - 140, studio apartments €145 - 175,
1-bedroom apartment €165 - 215). PALGKW

Senator Apartments Maidan C-4, T. Shevchenko
prov. 8B, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200
77 88, fax (+380) 44 200 77 80, maidan@senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments.com. This hotel
has a superb location just a step from the main Kyiv square,
despite of all the hustle and bustle of Maidan Nezalezhnosti.
Its location on a narrow and quiet old city street guarantees
all guests calm and cosy stay. The hotel has 7 floors and is
spread over 3 historical buildings. All rooms, though smaller
than in other Senator Apartments hotels, provide the high
standards of the chain. There are hotel-type standard and
superior rooms, as well as the Senators’ trademark studio and
one-bedroom apartments. The later coming equipped with a
kitchen. Each room includes central air-conditioning, a 42” TV,
bathrobe and slippers, and an iron and ironing board. A lovely
buffet breakfast cost an extra 10 EUR. Coffee and tea in the
lobby is free. Q42 rooms (standards €140 - 165, superiors
€150 - 175, studio apartments €170 - 195, 1-bedroom apartments €195 - 250). PALGW
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Staro D-1, Kostyantynivs’ka 34B, MKontraktova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 481 33 00, fax (+380) 44 481 33 03,
sm@staro.com.ua, www.staro.com.ua. Staro is located in a
quiet part of Podil district. The exterior of the hotel represents a
kind of Art-nouveau style with 35 spacious and cosy rooms in a
classical style. Each room is equipped with all the amenities of
4 star hotels including free Wi-Fi, safe, a set of mini-perfumes, a
hairdryer and bathrobes. Located out of main business areas
Staro is an ideal place for tourists to explore the city. Andrew’s
Descent as well as the nearby Kontraktova ploscha metro station is 10 minute walking distance and the Chernobyl museum
is also nearby. Q35 rooms (4 singles €129, 17 doubles €141,
7 twins €141, 3 family room €175, 4 junior suites €180, extra
bed €35). PZiHAULGKW hhhh
Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka
60, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00,
fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, info@vozd-hotel.com, www.
vozdvyzhensky.com/en/. This is one of the most elegant
and conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location,
in the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient
Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces
Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded
by the surrounding green hills that provide a breathtaking
panoramic view. All rooms, including the two deluxe suites
and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, “Club” and
“Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV and Internet
access. The conference hall accommodates up to 100. There
is a smaller hall for private meetings. Other perks include parking, banqueting, rewards programme, tailor-made service for
every client and a special offer for those just married. Q26
rooms (singles €140 - 170, doubles €186 - 215, exclusive
€300, luxe €315). PHARLBKW hhhh

Mid-range
IQ Hotel E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, MShuliavska, tel.
(+380) 44 238 84 05, fax (+380) 44 238 84 06, info@
iqhotel.com.ua, www.iqhotel.com.ua. Located near the
Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, this modern 3 star hotel is a much
needed addition to the Kyiv hotel scene. The staff was very
helpful and spoke fairly good English. There are 34 rooms,
mostly double standard costing just 599Hr per room per
night - a small breakfast is included. The design is a high tech
“minimalism” - white and bright, with queen size beds and
orthopaedic mattresses. There is a “smart house system”
with everything included. It’s adjacent to the shopping mall so
all your entertainment and shopping needs are just a stone’s
throw away. Q34 rooms (1 single 499Hr, 31 doubles 599Hr,
2 junior suites 899Hr). PiHLGW

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Khreschatik C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh-

nosti, tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 596 80
01, info@khreschatik.kiev.ua, www.khreschatik.kiev.
ua/en. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with
telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given
the location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquillity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two
conference rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange
desk, guarded parking and Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed
in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great value. Q130 rooms
(singles 850 - 1700Hr, doubles 1500 - 1800Hr, suites 1250
- 1900Hr). PHALW hhh

Slavutych Entuziastiv 1, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380)
44 561 11 11/(+380) 44 561 11 12, fax (+380) 44 561
11 70, slavutych-hotel.com.ua/en. If you want to stay
on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the
man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych.
The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape,
although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper
rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the
brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of which
come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning are
available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper kiosk
and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (65Hr). Q400
rooms (201 singles 329 - 459Hr, 175 doubles 429 - 845Hr, 18
junior suites 999Hr, 6 suites 1100Hr). OHAKC hhh

Hostels
Dream House Hostel & Bar C-2, Andriivskiy Uzviz

2D, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 580 21 69/
(+380) 95 703 29 79, dreamhouse@dream-family.com,
www.dream-family.com. This friendly hostel is located on the
famous and picturesque street of the artists. Part of a chain
the hostel is in a lovely renovated building with beds for 100 +.
Everything is clean with lots of facilities, the beds and furniture
are all real wood. There is a kitchen, eating area, washing
machine, Wi-Fi. Prices range from 100Hr per person per night

Airport hotel
Hotel Boryspil, tel. (+380) 44 281 71 05, fax

(+380) 44 281 79 53, www.kbp.aero. Close to Boryspil’s Terminals B and D, this is the closest you can get
to the airport without actually sleeping in it. Rooms are
well-sized, and come equipped with telephone and satellite TV. There is a room for guests with special needs on
the ground floor. Q134 rooms (44 singles 260 - 390Hr,
49 doubles 420 - 630Hr, 1 apartment 800 - 1275Hr,
28 suites 470 - 780Hr, 12 family suites 470 - 900Hr).
PTAUK hhh

Winter 2013 - 2014

21

22

Where to stay
Restaurants
to 520Hr for a private room for 1-2 with in room bathroom and
toilet. The staff is supper nice and speaks fluent English. They
show genuine concern for their guests and arrange daily games
and activities on premises and outside excursions like bowling
etc. Their motto is “We don’t just sell beds, we sell emotions something to tell your friends about.” Q28 rooms. PAW
Dream Party Hostel A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 47, apt. 17,
MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 289 36 13, booking@dreamhostel.com, www.dream-family.com. Dream Hostel offers its
guests a most unique and friendly atmosphere. To be honest,
the hostel owners are friends of our editorial team, however we
were even pickier, in our review of the facilities. After all, believe it
or not, Dream Hostel might be considered as the most luxurious
hostel in Kyiv. Aside from usual, very high standard amenities, your
window overlooks Chervonoamiys’ka street and the common
room window overlooks the newly renovated Olympiyskyi stadium,
where the final match of Euro2012 football championship took
place. Breakfast is available for 20Hr. Q4 rooms (1 double €42,
1 quad €33, 1 8-bed dorm €9 - 10, 1 10-bed dorm €9). PW
Gagarin B-6, Pervomayskoho 11, MKlovska, tel. (+380)
67 877 39 93, info@gagarinhostel.com.ua, www.gagarinhostel.com.ua. Gagarin is located in 300 m from Klovska metro
station in the middle of Kyiv business area, surrounded by all city
skyscrapers. It provides accommodation for 60+ people in 14
rooms, featuring free Wi-Fi, lockers, complimentary breakfast
and coffee/tea are always at hand . The hostel is clean and
staff speaks English well. The common area is equipped with
kitchen and TV. Ask administrator for bike rental. Q PiGW
Kiev Central Station A-2, Hoholivs’ka 25, apt. 15,
MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 93 758 74 68, www.kievcentralstation.com. Managed by Brazilian/Ukrainian staff
this hostel offers backpackers all they are expecting to get.
Homy atmosphere, a lot of information and close location to
the train station make Kyiv Central Station the good choice
for a stop in Kyiv. Choosing a dorm or one of privates you’ll get
all range of usual hostel amenities including free Wi-Fi. Q5
rooms (2 doubles €19 - 20, 1 quad €17 - 18, 1 6-bed dorm
€13 - 16, 1 12-bed dorm €13 - 14). PRLGW
Magic Bus Kyiv H-3, Saksahans’koho 31, apt. 3, ML’va
Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 97 336 0303, busofmagic@gmail.
com, www.magicbushostel.com. When we first entered
the place our first thought was “cool, it’s so funny and bright”.
Except of red/green/blue walls, there is a terrific… guess
what?.. golden toilet! Hostel stuff is very friendly and helpful
and rooms are always clean. Due to its location on one of
the main traffic streets, it might be a bit noisy outside, but
we may apply this to a half of Kyiv hostels. Q3 rooms (2
doubles €12 - 13, 1 12-bed dorm €8). PW
The Hub Hostel H-3, Saksahanskoho 66B, MUniversytet,
tel. (+380) 44 229 12 66, kyiv@thehubhostel.com, www.
thehubhostel.com. The Hub is in a separate unique little building hidden in the centre on one of those rare, quiet side streets.
The staff is helpful and friendly and great in English. It’s very
neat and clean with a 24 hour reception, free coffee and tea, and
basically everything one looks for in a hostel; Wi-Fi, a large social
room with large screen TV, washing machine, lockers, and a well
equipped kitchen and eating area. The prices are reasonable
with beds costing from €14-19 per night per person. There are
private rooms for 1-2 costing from €50. There are bikes to rent
and lots of activities are arranged including games, movie nights,
and pub crawling. And if Max is on duty - ask him to show you
his famous “bubble tricks”. Q PAGW
TIU Khreschatyk C-4, Khreschatyk 8B, apt. 11,
MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 50 331 18 47, tiu.
kreschatik@gmail.com. This quaint little hostel is right in the
heart of Kyiv, just a minute or 2 from Independence Square.
Staff is very friendly and English speaking. There is a room for
10 and a room for 2. The kitchen is spacious and fully equipped,

Kyiv In Your Pocket

and the “living room” is quite comfortable with round the clock
internet. Everything is very clean as all wear slippers. Prices
from 9 Euro per night with many excursions and “pick up“
services available. Q 10-bed dorm €12. PW
Why not? Chillout Kiev H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, MLva
Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 63 332 43 06, whynothostel@
gmail.com, www.whynothostels.com. The day we first
came to this hostel it was greeting its first guests, still being
on small renovation. Now when all works are done it welcomes
everyone with 6 rooms each uniquely designed. If you have
only a few days in Ukraine, but want to explore the whole
country - this hostel is just for you. Stay at Industrial 8 bed
dorm to feel yourself somewhere in Donetsk or choose a 4
bed dorm of Coupe room and imagine travelling by Ukrainian
trains. Soviet room or Forest one, or maybe the Rocket room,
whichever you choose you’ll get the high standard service
and common set of amenities, including free breakfast and
Wi-Fi, laundry service, information support, etc. Smoking is
allowed only in basement. Q6 rooms (2 doubles €14 - 15, 2
quads €12, 1 8-bed dorm €9, 1 10-bed dorm €8). PGW
Zig Zag A-5, Gorkoho 3A, apt.18 (press 18 at the
entrance), MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 98 700 08 80,
fax (+380) 44 272 61 77, zzhostel@gmail.com, www.
zzhostel.com. Zig Zag settled down across the road from lovely
Shevchenko park and the Red Building of National University. The
hostel can accommodate up to 62 people in 8 rooms, being
probably the first hostel that offers male/female dorms. Nice
lounge area upstairs provides TV/DVD and even PlayStation
options, while downstairs there are several PCs for use and a nice
kitchen. All rooms come with lockers, air-conditioning and free
Wi-Fi. Q8 rooms (quad private €60, 4-bed dorms €12 - 13, 6-bed
dorm €11, 8-bed dorm €10, 10-bed dorm €9). PAGW

19A, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 48, www.kanapa-restaurant.
kiev.ua. A very upscale Ukrainian restaurant right in the
midst of Ukraine’s main tourist trap. The dishes are huge and
colourful not your ordinary Ukrainian food as in most places.
An average complete meal for 2 will run around 1,000Hr. And
if you are on one of the terraces - the view is spectacular!
The original structure of the building dates back to the 17th
century and has been beautifully restored. There are lovely
paintings decorating the place and are for sale as well. Do
not forget to visit the shop as you leave and take home some
handmade gifts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEGW

Kniazhyi Grad C-3, H-2, Velyka Zhytomyrska 2,

MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 06 41,
www.knyazhiy-grad.com. It was like entering a huge throne
room. Located under the Diplomatic Institute, this cellar has
been marvellously transformed. There are stones pillars
and arches throughout with swords and plaster figures set
in them. The cuisine is traditional Russian and Ukrainian with
an average meal costing around 400Hr. QOpen :00 - 24:00.
PALGSW

Kult RA C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. This is a journey
in time to Pre-Christian Ukraine. The staff wears traditional
costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early
Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the
menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes
or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in
English. A specialty is the mustached cat fish fillet smoked
in vegetables for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with
beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade
liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is absolutely non-smoking. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW
Kureni D-6, Parkova doroha 4, tel. (+380) 44 253 17

24/(+380) 44 360 56 24, www.carteblanche.ua/en/.
Kureni, one of the oldest restaurants in Kyiv, has reopened
after renovations. Chef Natalia Bondareva offers Ukrainian
cuisine and follows the modern European traditions. The
restaurant represents a truly outdoor style, but it is located
in the centre of the city. The Ukrainian hospitality along with a
breathtaking view of the Dnipro river and surrounding natural
landscape make this place exceptionally unique. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. €€ PAUILEGBXS

Pervak A-5, H-3, Rohnidyns’ka 2, ML’va Tostoho, tel.
(+380) 44 235 09 52, www.pervak.kiev.ua. Take a trip
back in time to early 20th century Kyiv. The décor includes
the showing of silent movies, and the restaurant itself is on
the site of a famous merchant’s house. A friendly wait staff
in costumes serves up a variety of hearty Ukrainian dishes
with inventive names. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€ AE

Sinoval H-3, Saksahans’koho 40, tel. (+380) 44 289
54 75, www.sino.com.ua. It is a different sort of place
which one finds out upon entry and is greeted with a bathtub
full of fish. The décor is kind of flea market with old radios,
typewriters, books, and assorted knickknacks scattered
throughout. The cuisine is Ukrainian with an average meal
running just 100Hr or so. There is a delicious lunch served
daily for just 39Hr. One can see the daily special on line in
their very interesting web-site. There is no English menu
nor English speaking staff when we were there - but in such
a relaxed atmosphere - there is bound to be another guest
happy to help out. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Decoding the menu

Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based
on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked
ingredients. While cooking techniques are not complicated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients
and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which
combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly
spiced nor bland, but skilfully seasoned to perfection.
Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The
country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well
deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived in
Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different ways of preparing
bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is
a custom to give honoured guests and departing or arriving
travellers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is
still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitaries and other
important persons.
Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would
be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain.
Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even
making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and
Italian restaurants in Kyiv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup
has been adopted by other countries in the region, but
as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found
in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many versions of borshch served throughout the country reflect
the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity.
The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, depending on the season, region, and
of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be
meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain
either beef or smoked pork.
The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are
often dependent on the season, so most varieties of
vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain
dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that
certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available
at certain times of year.
Salads are very common, but rather than being lettucebased, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved
vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. With
so many different recipes, the only constant of Ukrainian
salads are the presence of vinegar or mayonnaise.
Varenyky are dumplings made from boiled or fried dough,
resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled
with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mushrooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened
cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can
be accompanied by butter or sour crème.
The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pigeons,”
but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are
cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or buckwheat
and often covered with a thin tomato sauce.
For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet
non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from
giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city.

Winter 2013 - 2014

23

Restaurants

24

Taras Bulba B-4, Pushkinska 2-4/7, MKhreschatyk, tel.
(+380) 44 270 72 48, www.tarasbulba.kiev.ua. This is a
very traditional Ukrainian restaurant - like being in a village. The
staff wears those cute costumes and the place is loaded with
jars of handmade conserves and preserves along with antiques
and decorations all of which can be bought on the spot. While
it looks extremely old - it opened recently. Taras Bulba is family
oriented with a great children’s play room and there is seating
for 186. Not only is there an English menu – they have them is
36 languages! (Someone please call Guinness). There are, as
expected, many different dishes of borscht available, rabbit,
and 20 different types of varenyky, and plenty of delicious
Ukrainian dishes. An average meal cost around 150-200Hr.
Breakfast is from 09:00-12:00 with free coffee included. The
business lunch is from 12:00-16:00 from 60Hr. They have their
own discount card and there are discounts for birthdays. They
also hold special “seasonal” parties with workshops in arts and
crafts for children. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. PiAGSW
Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, MPalats Sportu,
tel. (+380) 44 287 15 39, www.2k.ua. From its opening,
Varenichnaya #1 became a favourite for many. To Kyivites it
seems that this restaurant has always been a feature near the
Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be met by a charming
decorative pig called Varvara. There are three halls decorated
in a picturesque Philistine style of the early 20th century, and a
summer terrace. QOpen 24hrs. PTALGBS

American
new

Beef’s Bar H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, MOlimpiyska,

tel. (+380) 44 287 77 55, www.beefys.com.ua. I cannot
remember the last time I tasted a real Chili Cheese Hot Dog. I
got the “real thing” here! Beef’s say they specialise in Burgers &
Chili. I think that Tex-Mex-is also a pretty good description. The
palace has an authentic “American” type design which adds to
the atmosphere. There are all kinds of Burgers & chili along with
chicken wings, tortillas, nachos and more. There is also a Salad
bar and American deserts such as brownies and a traditional
banana split. The staff made me feel at home, and spoke English
ok. The prices are very reasonable with the medium price being
about 70-80Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PASW
T.G.I. Friday’s A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 42 64, www.fridays.com.ua/
en. Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous
with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a
real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts
expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge portions
at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in the city.
Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads and grilled
meats than the Stateside version. The wine list is terrific and
the cocktails (there are more than 400 of them) will speak
for themselves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTAGS

Symbol key
P Air-conditioning

E Live music

6 Animal friendly

M Nearest station

T Child friendly

G Non-smoking areas

A Credit cards accepted

X Smoking section

U Facilities for the disabled S Take away
I Fireplace

B Terrace

L Guarded parking

W Wi-Fi internet access

V Home delivery

Kyiv In Your Pocket

Zheltok A-4, Lva Tolstoho 11/61, MLva Tolstoho, tel.

(+380) 63 396 10 10. Do not let the name confuse you - it
is really a pretty good attempt at copying an American diner.
(I doubt though if many exist anymore.) The breakfast/lunch
menu is served from 08:30-17:30 with unlimited coffee. There
are great American type pancakes along with real American
hot dogs and hamburgers. The average price is about 60Hr.
The dinner menu is from 17:30-23:00 featuring international
and American cuisine. An average meal in the evening runs
about 150Hr. It holds about 75 and all speak English well!
QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PiAGBSW

tel. (+380) 44 287 11 16, www.chechevica.com.ua.
Here is a lovely culinary experience not too far from the
centre. While the speciality is Georgian cuisine, there is also
Thai food, sushi and pizza; all at reasonable prices. There is
an open grill area so you can see your food being cooked.
The decor is quite unique - very “sweet and comfortable”.
The staff is super friendly and speaks great English. There is
seating for 150 on two levels plus a terrace. There are also
several VIP rooms for private gatherings. QOpen 11:00 –
24:00. PAGSW
Gorets H-2, Vorovskoho 9, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44
272 23 00, www.gorets.kiev.ua. This Georgian restaurant is
really worth visiting-like taking a trip to the Caucasus. Everyone
is wearing traditional costumes and the place is crawling with
decorations, dishes, pans, photos, you name it-like visiting a
museum. The menu is in English and the staff was very helpful
and easy to speak with. An average meal runs around 400Hr.
And it was hard for us to choose. We finally settled on the “Khinkali” which is a spicy Georgian Ravioli- really yummy! There is
also a children’s menu and a business lunch menu weekdays
from 12:00-16:00 for 80Hr. There are weekend discounts-card
discounts and various promotions. Sometimes there is livetraditional music. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGXW
Hinkalnaya C-3, Volodymyrska 11, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 279 28 65, www.kafehinkalnaya.kiev.ua. A
recent entry into the Kyiv “eatery” scene. This is Georgian cuisine
at its fines with a real Georgian chef. Walking in one is nearly
knocked over by the compelling aroma drifting from the kitchen.
There is an English menu which also offers European cuisine and
has a great wine list with popular Georgian wines. The staff was
friendly and the service great with seating for 200. We suggest
trying the traditional snack of Khinkali for just 14Hr! An average
menu runs around 200Hr. There are photos of vintage US cars on
the walls and there is a car actually built in/under the bar. From
Wednesday-Sunday there is live music featuring Jazz & Blues
from 20:30-22:30. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALEGW

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Winter 2013 - 2014

25

26

Restaurants
Scottish

Chinese

Whisky Corner C-3, Sofiivska 16/16, MZoloti

(+380) 44 360 70 60, www.brucelee.com.ua. A great
little eatery just a stone’s throw from Kyiv’s main drag Khreschatyk. It’s got great Chinese design and is quite cosy
- seating 44. The chef is from China so you can be sure it’s the
real thing. It’s a real young and friendly English-speaking staff
and they really made us feel welcome. Portions run between
around 25-88Hr with an average meal costing about 120Hr.
There are 4 great “business” menus ranging from 35-105Hr.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAVGSW
Lun Van B-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 26, MTeatral’na, tel.
(+380) 44 279 81 91. Lun Van offers arguably the most
savoury and authentic Chinese in town. The beef and chicken
stir-fry are excellent and the spicy veal will definitely have you
reaching for your beer, eyes watering. Friendly and efficient
service has become a trademark. The private dining room
accommodates up to 12 and is ideal for business luncheons,
larger dinner groups and families with noisy children. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00. PAGSW
Mandarin D-3, I-1, Moskovsky prosp. 32, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 229 04 59, www.mandarin.
ua. This floating Asian restaurant boasts 25 Chinese cooks
and over 100 items on the menu, including pig’s ears, jellyfish and (relatively) expensive sushi. Most of the dishes are
for two or more people, so don’t be selfish and share with
your partner. There is a special tearoom, a kid’s room with
professional baby-sitter, and even a mooring for your boat,
should you bring it. English menu available. QOpen 24hrs.
PTALEGBSW

Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 15, www.whiskycorner.kiev.ua. “Show me the way to the next whisky
bar” - Well here it is! Just a stone’s throw from Independence Square with about 600 labels of whisky to
choose from. The theme is “Scottish” hence the lovely
plaid costumes the staff wear. The décor is modern
yet relaxed seating 70. There is an English menu with
European and of course, Scottish cuisine costing 300Hr
for an average meal - steaks would be more. We dared
to order traditional Scottish haggis in a baked potato
for 75Hr and were impressed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PAGXW

Gastronomic
Barsuk I-4, Kutuzova prov. 3A, MPecherska, tel.

(+380) 50 386 36 29, www.barsuk.kiev.ua. Barsuk
offers a tastefully presented, pallet pleasing range of
European and local dishes. Freshness is this restaurant’s
recipe to success and is on display in the carefully chosen
selection of salads, the fresh pastas smothered with your
choice of signature sauce and steaming steaks and seafood. This place is loaded with extras including an Italian/
European deli and culinary classes available to the public
every weekend from 11:00-14:00. This restaurant can be
a bit tricky to find, as it is located on Kutuzova provulok,
a small perpendicular side street off Kutuzova vul. From
the Pechers’ka metro station, head towards the river and
take the third street on the left. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
€€. PAUVEGBXSW
Foodtourist A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 5 (Arena City),
2nd floor, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 095 780 60 70,
www.foodtourist.com.ua. Foodtourist is right smack
dab in the centre. The theme is simply “food fashion”; the
cuisine is International and Ukrainian and they have an
open Josper grill. The chef is from Marseilles and speaks
great English as does the staff. There are so many different items to choose from, but we finally chose the grilled
quail with veggies for just 137Hr. An average meal runs
between 150-200Hr. A unique feature is the two large
dining tables covered with beautiful thick grass. This was
definitely a 1st for us - and less for the staff to clean up
afterwards. There is also a breakfast menu served from
09:00-12:00 with prices about 35Hr.The place is quite
large holding 200 guests and there is Wi-Fi available along
with an excellent view of the city. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PiJEGSW
GastroRock C-1, Vozdvyzhenska 10B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, www.
gastrorock.kiev.ua. A cool type of pub for the younger
age set. There is much truly unique here - like beer in a tin
with fish, or is it fish in a tin with beer? You can buy your
own cured leg of pork and leave it hanging for whenever
you come in. For steak lovers there is a 2kg steak for only
599Hr. There are special Sunday dinners where the staff
trade places with the customers. Breakfast is from 08:0012:00 with a special for 49Hr. There is a business lunch
from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. An average meal runs about
200-250Hr. The place holds 80+ and there is live music
along with special cocktails every Wednesday - Saturday.
QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PiJEGSW

Kyiv In Your Pocket

Bruce Lee B-4, Proreznaya 2, MKhreschatyk, tel.

Czech
new

Kozlovitsa B-5, T.Shevchenka Bulv. 1, MLva Tolstoho,

tel. (+380) 44 228 07 07, kozlovica.com.ua/en. This is
a large Czech Beer house dead in the centre. There is seating
for 250 on two levels. The décor is simple Czech beerish. The
food is traditional Czech with lots of sausages and items like
pig knuckles with cabbage for 239 Hr. An average meal will run
around 200-300Hr.There is a business lunch from 12:00-16:00
for just 53Hr. Take a card at lunch and after 4 visits-the 5th lunch
is free. There are special promotions from time to time and it’s
a great place to celebrate birthdays. Everyone was friendly and
proficient in English. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PAEGSW
U Golema A-3, Chapaeva 4V, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380)
44 234 45 56, www.ugolema.com.ua. Those of you who have
never been to Prague or read about it, must have heard something of the legend of Golem. According to legend, Golem was
created out of clay from the banks of Vltava river in the late 16th
century to defend the Prague ghetto from pogroms. The legend
is sad, but there is also a nicer part to it which is described on the
walls of this Czech restaurant. The menu, beautifully decorated,
features a long list of traditional rich Czech cuisine. We recommend trying at list one dish from Bramborov ý Listek (potato
pies with different fillings) from a simple one for 27Hr to the most
expensive with pork for 89Hr. There is pale and dark Podkován
draft beer on tap. The wine list includes Italian, Chilean and
Georgian wines. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PJALGBSW
U Hromogo Pola J-3, Suvorova 4, MArsenal’na, tel.
(+380) 44 280 50 07, www.uhromogopola.com.ua. The
first restaurant in Kyiv to serve genuine Czech cuisine. The
food is good and large - the various platters are an excellent
introduction to Czech cuisine, as long as you like meat. U
Hromogo Pola serves quality and robust bucket sized portions on the plate and fresh beer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PTAESW

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
European
Cote d`Azur D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, Boutique Hotel
Riviera, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, www.rivierahotel.
com.ua/en/restaurant. Sitting on the 7th floor of the
hotel, one has a splendid view of the old town Podol and the
Dnipro River. The décor is breath-taking with a gold-white
combination. The cuisine is European/Ukrainian with an average meal running around 500Hr. We heard they have a great
“Chicken Kiev” but we ordered the pepper steak with veggies
for 320Hr - delicious! There are smoking and non-smoking
areas with total seating for 80 plus a VIP room for 15. The
restaurant can be booked for banquets, weddings, and other
special occasions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGXW
Grill-Bureau Pache C-4, Kostelna 3, MMaidan

Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 11/(+380) 67
187 49 49, www.pache.com.ua. Fish lovers - this is for
you! Right in the centre you can enjoy not only their fish
specialty but can choose from the great selection of Italian/
European cuisine. We ordered the sea bass from the Josper
grill for just 145Hr and are glad we did. An average complete
meal will run around 300Hr. There is a breakfast menu from
09:00-12:00 for 30 and 38Hr. The décor is awesome - very
modern with wood everywhere. It seats 100 and there is a
VIP room and a summer terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW

INK A-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 52/17, Leonardo Business
Centre, tel. (+380) 44 224 50 65/(+380) 67 506 04
26, ink-restaurant.com. This upscale Restaurant is located
inside the business centre and is a great place for those
serious business lunches. It is modern and spacious with
a bright design. The cuisine is basically European and they
have a great selection of Black Sea fish. An average meal
will easily cost around 500Hr. The menu is in English and all
were happy to speak with us. There is also a breakfast menu
available from 10:00-12:00. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
L’Entrecote B-5, Baseina 5B, MPalats Sportu, tel.
(+380) 44 593 80 39, www.lentrecote.com.ua. “Smart
Food. Smart people” is their motto. This is a great “budget
restaurant” right in the centre. A main dish consists of either
beef steak, salmon steak, mussels, or shrimp accompanied
by bread, salad, and potatoes or veggies; All for just 89Hr.
There are also single portions of soup, sandwich, hamburger,
& a cheese dish for prices ranging from 32Hr-69Hr. There
are some yummy desserts too for around 35Hr. Breakfast
is served until 12:00 costing between 20Hr-36Hr. It has
a modern yet simple design with seating for 130, with a
friendly English speaking staff. QOpen 08:00 – 23:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PiAGBW
maLLina café D-3, Sahaidachnogo 27B, MPoshtova
Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 08, www.mallinaproject.
com.ua. This easy to find oasis is on the main street in busy
Podil. Once inside however, one feels far away from the hustle
and bustle of the city. There are sofas and easy chairs downstairs for 50. This is the smoking section where hookahs can be
rented. Up the very steep and old fashioned attic stairs is a cozy
non smoking section for about 22. It makes one feel more at
home then in a restaurant. There are jars of raspberry (mallina)
compote everywhere. Why the fuss about raspberry’s? It’s do
with the Russian proverb that roughly translates; “Life is like a
raspberry”, or “It’s a good life”. Aside from the European, Homemade and Japaneese cuisines, there is a separate section on
the menu devoted to raspberry, including fillet minion. The prices
are reasonable and the service warm and friendly .Come when
the weather warm and sit outside under lovely trees where there
is room for 70. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGBXSW
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Winter 2013 - 2014

27

Restaurants

28

Onegin B-4, Pushkins’ka 11, tel. (+380) 44 278 75 06,
www.restoranonegin.com. Here is a great eatery right in
the centre. We were delighted to see our old friend, Gary,
as head chef. He is world renown, and started the Arizona
and other great restaurants. He recommended us the veal
ribs with potatoes and asparagus for just 115Hr. They were
mouth watering! An average complete meal will run about
200Hr-250Hr. The décor is a “Bistro-type” and there is a
sidewalk terrace when the weather is fine. An English menu
is available and if you have trouble communicating, just ask
for Gary. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALEGBSW
new

San Paolo C-4, Muzeynyi prov. 4, MMaidan Nezalezh-

nosti, tel. (+380) 44 290 98 00, www.sanpaolo.com.ua.
Approaching the entrance, we knew we were in for something
special. Sao Polo is stylish and spacious and at the same
time warm and comfortable. The kitchen offers European
cuisine with such dishes as “veal rack with potatoes and wild
mushrooms”. (289Hr) There are also some great vegetarian
dishes. An average meal will run around 400-500Hr and is
certainly worth it. There is always something new like “White
truffle week” and a Friday evening pianist. There is seating
for over 80 with a banquet room for 100, and a VIP business
room for 20. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAGW

Traktir na Basseinoy B-5, Basseina 2A, MLva Tol-

stoho, tel. (+380) 50 444 97 44, www.traktir-kiev.com.
A nice little Beer-house a couple of doors from the Pinchuck
Art Centre and down the stairs... If you have your own special beer mug there is a special locker with a glass door to
store it in. They have a wide variety of beers and it is a great
restaurant too! There is an open grill for meat and there are
plenty of beer snacks. It is Ukrainian/European cuisine with an
average meal running around 200Hr. On Friday’s & Saturday’s
there is live music with different bands playing rock, jazz, and
pop. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAGW

Varadero G-2, T.Shevchenka bulv. 27A, MUniversytet,
tel. (+380) 44 234 03 70, www.t-v.com.ua. Opened autumn
2012 it is a lovely restaurant on 3 floors with seating for 70+. It
has a bright - formal yet comfortable design and cosy fireplaces.
There are pictures all over the wall of life in Cuba. We thought
it strange as Varadero has European/ Ukrainian cuisine. The

Quick & Cheap
Olivie B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 16-22, MTeatralna.

Located right in the centre, the Olive is actually a pleasant make-over of a former branch of Domashnia Kuchnia,
a cafeteria that has been in Kyiv for ages. The décor is
an eye catching light green and there are TV screens
for football everywhere. The food is everyday Ukrainian
and one can get a decent meal anywhere from 20-50Hr
depending on how hungry one is. Also at Metrograd Shopping Mall. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAG
Puzata Khata D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 46 99, www.puzatahata.com.ua/eng/. It is a great place for breakfast,
lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, and there are
a wide variety of pastries on the second floor. For people
who know almost nothing about Ukrainian food and are
not sure if it is worth spending a lot of money in a restaurant to find out what Ukrainians like the most, it is a good
opportunity for a trial taste. Besides, you will find yourself
in a real Ukrainian peasant house, so, enjoy! Also at B-4,
Khreschatyk 15/4, Passage; H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40;
D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1; B-5, Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska
pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGSW

Kyiv In Your Pocket

answer is simple; this was once a USSR government building and
Fidel himself once smoked a cigar here. Their speciality is Black
Sea fish, and also the fact that one can order anything “off menu”.
An average meal costs around 300Hr. They have a wide variety
of wine and claim to have the lowest wine prices in town! The
staff is super friendly and fluent in English and they will be happy
to take you on a tour. QOpen 09:30 – 00:30. PAGSW
new

Vogue Café D-3, Sahaidachnoho 11, MPoshtova Plos-

cha, tel. (+380) 44 220 08 09, www.voguecafe.ua. As
the name suggests, this is an upscale café-restaurant. It
has a classic, “vogue” design and it is almost like eating
in a palace. The restaurant is very spacious, holds around
100, and is properly divided into smoking and non smoking
sections. The menu is European cuisine with such offers as
roast loin of venison for 285Hr. A medium bill here will run you
about 500-600Hr per person. The staff is super friendly and
spoke very good English. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. PAGW

French
BaзAAR Braserie B-5, Besarabska pl. 2, MKhreschatyk,

tel. (+380) 44 238 21 11, www.bazaar.kiev.ua. This is
a fairly new restaurant (Summer 2011) with a lovely modern
French design and located in the same building as the famous
Besarabsky market. In fact, one can get a table with a bird’s
eye view of the market below. See something you like in the
market, buy it, bring it up and have the kitchen prepare it while
you wait. Or enjoy a dish from the menu specialising in French
and Italian cuisine. There is an English menu and staff speaks
some English as well. There is also a lovely cheese platter to
hold you while you wait. We tried the duck breast with caramel
apples for 190Hr and really enjoyed it! An average meal will run
you about 250Hr-300Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGW

Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel.
(+380) 44 279 54 62. A wonderful location for peoplewatching, as the two terraces overlook the fashionable
Ukraina cinema just off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious
French and Italian food, including frog legs and goose liver
for those who likes such delicacies. Prices are above average, but meals are incredibly delicious and service is good.
A summer terrace overlooks beautiful Horodetskoho street.
QOpen 24 hrs. PiJALGBSW

Fast food & Sandwiches
Kentucky Fried Chicken H-5, Ocean Plaza, Gorkoho
176, MLybidska, tel. (+380) 50 332 75 04. To our
knowledge, it’s the 1st KFC in Ukraine. It looks and feels
like the real thing - and tasted like it too! We were a little
surprised though to find no English-speaking staff or English
menu at all. The prices are not too bad - about what one
would expect and there is seating for about 100. The
entrance is from the outside the mall and they are open
almost non-stop. QOpen 06:00 - 04:00. PGBSW
McDonald’s B-4, Khreschatyk 19 A, MKhreschatyk,
tel. (+380) 44 230 27 37. Despite popular Ukrainian
claims that the golden arches are forming cracks, most
locations are usually busy. The menu here is considerably
smaller than in Western countries: the sandwich list is basic
with some extras. Breakfast menu is available until 10:00.
Also at: C-4, Sofiivs’ka 1/2; D-3, Borychiv Uzviz 10; A-5,
Chervonoarmiys’ka 22; A-3, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25
and everywhere. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAGSW
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Han-Gang

Fusion
Buddha-bar C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com.
ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now
enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say
that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for
their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For
a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of
possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the
restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d
like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out
Buddha’s very professional website. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PALG
Concord A-5, Pushkins’ka 42/4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel.
(+380) 44 234 77 88/(+380) 44 206 01 56, www.
carteblanche.com.ua. This extremely upscale restaurant
is a favourite with top businessmen, models and the like. The
cuisine is called ‘French Fusion’ and includes some sumptious
Asian and fish selections. If you are on a budget, don’t fret:
you can pop in for coffee and dessert and still get to admire
the great views of central Kyiv from the rooftop location.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTALEBS
Marocana Fashion Café I-4, Lesi Ukrainki bul’v. 24,
MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 254 49 99, www.carteblanche.com.ua. This restaurant’s unique cuisine has been
created by blending the best culinary achievements of its chef,
the warm spirit of Morocco, Eastern creativity and European
quality. The interior has a modern, fusion-like intrigue, and
makes great use of the space. The relaxing atmosphere that
smothers the place late in the afternoons gives way to a stylish fashion-party feel in the evening. Alongside the excellent
conventional menu there is sushi, a range of vegetarian dishes,
a cigar menu, a hookah menu, a top wine list and it’s even
open for breakfast. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAGBS

International
BEEF Meat & Wine A-5, Shota Rustaveli 11, MPalats

Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 225 00 35, www.beef.kiev.ua/en.
A very large and modern complex. The staff is warm, friendly,
and English speaking. The decor is modern and spacious. The
prices are defined as luxurious, from 300-600+Hr. There is a
somewhat discounted lunch menu. The dishes we ordered
were top notch and delicious. You might wait a while on Friday’s
evening, but we sure this experience worth it. There are 3
large TV screens and Wi-Fi, and there is a banquet room for
50. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGBXW
Lyon Wine Bar B-4, Prorizna 23A, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 278 22 14. The ‘wine bar’ in the name is exactly
what this quaint little place near the “Golden Gate” implies. There
is a fantastic selection of the most popular wines from all over the
world. The bar is downstairs and you can buy any bottle or, if you
prefer wine by the litre, choose from over 10 types. There is also
a great seasonal – limited - menu with European cuisine, featuring
salads, soups and delicious deserts. Main dishes include grilled
salmon, sea bass, beef entrecôte, and duck confit. An average
meal will cost around 150Hr. Try the duck and you will not be
disappointed. There are always some daily specials and different
events on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGSW
Vagon-Restaurant H-3, Cher vonoarmiyska 52,
MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 04 90, www.wagonua.com. Different styles of train carriages make up one of the
most fantastic restaurant interiors in the city. Seating areas
include English, Western and Eastern Orient compartments,
in addition to a French boulevard and a waiting hall where you
can pour yourself beer from taps on the table. The cuisine
is Euro fusion. QOpen 11:00 - 02:30. €€€ PTALS

Korean
Han Gang Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor,
MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www.
han-gang.com.ua. Getting to this restaurant takes a
small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and the
Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn right
out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the minor
travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic view of the
right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo-Pechers’ka
Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip the Japanese
and order the Korean - you won’t be disappointed. Karaoke is available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAGSW

Italian
Al Faro H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 49A, MRespublikans’kyi
stadion, tel. (+380) 44 503 50 91, pr.acts@gmail.com,
www.alfaro.com.ua. Authentic Italian fare in the heart of
Kyiv...someone pinch us, we must be dreaming. Choose from a
variety of classic dishes including fresh leafy salads, lasagne,
penne, spaghetti, grilled salmon and ribs. The authentic
Italian-style pizzas come topped with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, prosciutto, oregano, etc., and are baked next to an open
flame in an old-style oven (take-out available). We sampled the
linguini with pesto, which is hands down the best in Kyiv. The
noodles were nice and firm - “Al dente, perfetto!” as they say
in Sicily. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTJAUIEGBK
€1 = 10.97Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 13.00Hr

(27 November 2013 official rates)
Winter 2013 - 2014

29

Restaurants

30

Boccaccio B-6, Mechnikova 2, MKlovska, tel. (+380)
44 377 55 45, www.carteblanche.ua. Located in the
Parus Business Centre, this is actually three restaurants in
one seating over 300. It includes; a fancy Italian restaurant,
a pizzeria, and a sushi restaurant. The Italian restaurant is
beautiful with a white-comfortable design. All the menus are
in English & everyone speaks it fluently. The chef is from the
Tuscany region of Italy-so the food’s the real thing! An average meal runs between 300-500Hr depending on the wine
ordered. There is a breakfast menu served from 08:00-12:00
and there is always a seasonal promotion. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PiTAGXW
new

Carpaccio C-3, Sofiivska 12, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti,

tel. (+380) 44 278 16 12. The restaurant is named after
Giuseppe Cipriani who in 1950 invented a new cold dish of
thinly sliced ​​raw beef and called it “carpaccio.” Today this
method of thin slicing is popular all over the world. Carpaccio’s
Italian chef offers delicious food with an Italian flavour. The
long dining hall is has a simple red and white décor. At the far
end is an open kitchen where one can observe the preparation of homemade pasta, authentic pizza, and other dishes.
We really enjoyed the “Rabbit a la Tuscan with olives” for just
115Hr. An average meal will cost around 250-300Hr and if
you come early you can have breakfast from 10:00-12:00.
As for the service; we cannot remember seeing a friendlier,
smiling staff that really made us feel at home. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. PAGSW

Da Vinci Fish Club C-3, Volodymyrska 12, MZoloti
Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52,
www.da-vinci.com.ua. Where did we enter a time machine
that transferred us to the Renaissance Italy? A big round bar
of Venetian hat form and 12 blowing heads are right in the middle of the ground floor. Beneath a real gondola “float” found its
harbour. On the second floor there are romantic Romeo and
Juliet balconies for lovers and the Balcony with beautiful view
over the city. Veroneze banquet hall is decorated with copies
of the famous Italian painters accommodate 14 - 20 people.
Biblioteka hall with books, synopsis of classicists and styluses, as well as a VIP-hall for 6 people called Coliseum. The
restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes and specialities.
Another attractive feature is an aquarium with live mussels,
crabs and lobsters. Every night (except for Sun) there is live
music, and Italian songs are performed by waiters. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. €€€€ PALEBW
Il Patio D-3, Ihorivs’ka 13/5, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel.

(+380) 44 501 74 64, www.il-patio.com.ua. Over the
last few years Il Patio on Bessarabs’ka Sq. has been serving
some of the finest pizza in town. The venue’s tasty Italian
fare can now be enjoyed down by the riverside at Il Patio
second branch. This dinning spot pays homage to Venice
and even has a gondola in the main hall. The restaurant has
a delicious salad bar and specialises in ’Antipasta’ snacks
as well as wonderful pizza and other Italian dishes. Also at:
A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, tel. (+380) 44 246 43 27; G-3,
Saksahans’koho 112A, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 87. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. €€ PTALGSW

Mozzarella Cafe D-3, Sahaidachnoho 23/8, tel. (+380)

44 417 60 52, www.mallinaproject.com.ua. A cute little
Italian style restaurant with red & white chequered table
cloths. It’s right on the main street in Podil with seating both
inside and outside for 70. Pizzas range from 39Hr-98Hr and
other dishes are quite reasonable with an average meal running about 200Hr.There are also homemade preserves for
sale from the very friendly staff. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBW

tel. (+380) 44 239 88 88, www.rucola.com.ua. They
like to be known as an “Italian Restaurant For Friends” It is
a pretty recent addition to the Italian restaurant scene and
the food seemed authentic enough. There is a wood stove
and of course, an original stone pizza oven. Not only are there
yummy pizzas, but a great selection of pasta, meat and fish.
We enjoyed the Porterhouse steak - 450 g for just 195Hr.
An average meal will run around 250-300Hr. It is quite large
holding around 90 and the staff was super friendly and spoke
great English. QOpen 24hrs. PAGSW

Vero Vero I-1, Illinska 18, MKontraktova Ploscha,
tel. (+380) 44 284 10 01, www.verovero.com.ua. Italian food in beautiful surroundings! Not only is there a cosy
restaurant but across the street in the park is a fenced in
dining area complete with a fountain with seating for around
150. The cuisine is authentic with the menu in Russian
and Italian. An average complete meal will run 300+Hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGBW

Mediterranean
Den & Bros B-3, H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 19, tel. (+380) 44

272 22 20, www.denbros.com.ua. Den & Bros is a trendy
underground local not far from the “Golden Gate”. It has very
modern yet simple decor-basically grey and white throughout.
The menu was specially developed by a Greek chef. The main
idea was to use local produce and ingredients for dishes with
a Greek and Mediterranean flavour. We recommend trying the
“Something from Ancient Greece salad” to experience “the
real thing”. The prices are quite reasonable with a complete
meal running about 130Hr. There is a business lunch as well
from 12:00-16:00. Den & Bros is also proud of their cocktail
list and the right way of making cocktails. Their Bloody Mary
is truly one of the best in town, made from fresh tomato juice.
The menu is in English and communication was no problem.
Fridays and Saturdays DJs rock the night. We never did see
any brothers though. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 02:00. PJAGSW

Monaco C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 20A (Peyzazhna
Alley), MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 590 01 51,
www.monaco.com.ua. This restaurant adopts not only
the name of the Mediterranean principality, but its style and
atmosphere too. Six different halls at the restaurant can
satisfy a wide variety of guests. The summer terrace on the
second floor opens up on the marvellous city view. The chef
Thierry Alix and his team work hard to please their customers. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€ PTALEGBXS

Much more reviews
are available at
kyiv.inyourpocket.com
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
Japanese
Murakami D-2, Sahaidachnoho 35, MDnipro, tel.
(+380) 44 425 01 90, www.murakami.com.ua/en. All
the usual suspects (nigiri, maki, sashimi, etc.) are represented
in Murakami, and they also offer a touch of Thai and their
own original dishes. We went on a Saturday and the place
was packed. Don’t worry, the sushi will arrive fresh and tasty,
but your order will definitely start at the back of the queue.
Karaoke gets started at 22:00. (One side note about karaoke
in Kyiv: Ukrainians take their singing very seriously. If you
think that the audience will get a kick out of your piss-take of
Barry Manilow’s “Copacabana” think again – you’re likely to
get booed). Delivery is also available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 06:00. €€ PTALVGBW

Nobu A-5, Shota Rustaveli 12, MPalats Sportu, tel.
(+380) 044 246 77 34, www.2k.ua. A great Asian
restaurant right in the centre, and guess what - sushi is not
the main course! It has a lovely Asian design, holds 50, and
has both smoking and non-smoking sections. The menu is
in English and the staff spoke it really well. An average meal
will run about 350-400Hr and certainly worth it. We had the
“duck brisket in teriyaki sauce” with salad for just 198Hr.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALGXW

Seafood
Barkas B-4, Volodymyrska 49A, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 569 56 42, www.brsystems.ua. It is right by
Kyiv’s “Golden Gate”, yet you would be forgiven if you thought
you had been transported to Crimea. It’s a great seafood restaurant with “Black Sea” cuisine. But not just cuisine - all the
food comes from Crimea; fish, veggies, wine, and preserves.
You can actually pick your dinner from the large aquarium. Its
design is of a ship and there is seating for 150 – banquets
are welcome. The prices are quite reasonable with an average meal - with wine - costing around 350Hr. On Thursday &
Friday there is a musical duo for your entertainment. There
are 2 “happy hours” weekdays; unlimited buns are served
from 10:00-12:00 and unlimited coffee is available from
14:00-16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Porto Maltese H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 288 18 88, www.portomaltese.kiev.
ua/en/restorant.html. Porto, which can be found inside
the Olympiys’kyi trade complex is the latest in the worldwide
chain of Porto restaurants. The venue specialises in dishes
made from the finest fish and seafood, as well as cuisine
from Serbia and Montenegro, Croatia and Slovenia. Visitors
can select the fish themselves and then observe the entire
preparation process. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€ PA

Soviet
Varenichnaya Katusha C-3, H-2, Sofiivska 14,

MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 220 00 15,
katysha.com.ua/en. A recently opened member of a rapidly
growing restaurant chain here in the capital. It is authentic
Ukrainian food at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere
is homey with books and lots of knick-knacks from by gone
days. Everything is fresh and homemade including some
yummy cakes! The menu changes every four months. Aside
from the expected Ukrainian food there are other great dishes
such as salmon steak for just 89Hr. There is no English menu,
but the pictures did help, and communicating is English was
a bit difficult. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Vegetarian
In the not so distant past there was not a single restaurant where Kyiv citizens and guest could eat purely vegetarian food. Some of the better restaurants though did
have some vegetarian dishes to choose from. Recently
this tradition (which in our opinion was a bad one) has
finally come to an end. Restaurants are finally offering
more and more vegetarian dishes and there are even a
rare few that offer the real thing: a healthy philosophy
and thinking, a healthy surrounding, and healthy food.
iLive A-5, Esplanadna 32, MPalats Sportu, tel.
(+380) 095 700 53 37, ilive.kiev.ua. This lively lounge
café found its place in a basement, just a step from Olimpiysky stadium. The menu and philosophy are based on a
diet of raw vegetables, with some of the food coming from
the proprietor’s own garden. The menu features mainly
vegetarian food, the exception being dishes with salmon.
Different soups, porgies, vegetable cutlets, rise, risotto,
sauté... if you have never tried to avoid meat you will be
surprised to meet so many various options. Whatever you
choose from the main dishes, for dessert, their baked apple
is a must. There is a menu in English and the staff eagerly
speak some. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAVGBSW
Tri B-3, Olesia Honchara 15/3, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 292 03 03/(+380) 67 628 25 15, tri.kiev.
ua. To our memory this is the fourth restaurant that has
opened in this location. We really do hope it will have long life.
This is probably without any exceptions, the only completely
vegetarian restaurant in town. The menu excludes dishes
from meat, fish, eggs, sugar, yeast, white flour, and milk. It is
based on seasonal food which grows in the region. The bar
and healthy bakery offer fresh juices, smoothies, organic teas
including their own house blends, cereals drinks, and cocktails from nut milk. The menu features main course dishes
from spinach, mushrooms, cabbage, and other vegetables
for 65-79Hr. There are also soups for 35-49Hr and salads
for 43-69Hr. But the restaurant itself is only a part of the
space. Tri: is a family place, so bring your kids with you to
take part in numerous activities offered by the restaurant.
QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. PAGS

Uzbek
Eshak H-6, Chervonoarmiyska 85/87, MPalats Ukraina,
tel. (+380) 44 383 33 00, www.eshak.com.ua. A new addition to the Uzbec Restaurant trend. It is a stunning place to
vist with the “Mongol decor” transporting you to another time
& place. It is quite large with seating for 300 including several
VIP rooms for private gatherings of up to 10. It is also “children
friendly” with many families visiting on weekends. An average
meal will cost around 300Hr per person. From Thursday through
Sunday there is live music in the restaurant and a DJ on the
terrace. There are also products & fresh exotic spices for sale.
QOpen 11:00 – 23:00. PAGSW
Tubeteyka H-3, Tarasivska 29/50, MOlimpiyska, tel.
(+380) 44 287 02 42, www.2k.ua. A real Uzbek restaurant!
It’s just outside the centre but easy to get to. There is a lovely
terrace outside and inside it’s decorated to the hilt with items
and costumes from Uzbekistan. It seats 120 with smoking
and non-smoking areas. The staff is really friendly and speaks
English ok. An average meal costs around 200-250Hr and
there are business lunches weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for
64 and 84Hr. There is another restaurant of this chain nearby
the Olimpiyskiy Stadium at Esplanadna 2 and another one at
Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 34. Each of these two is as perfect as the
first one. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAEGXSW
Winter 2013 - 2014

31

Nightlife
CAFéS

32

Aroma Espresso Bar H-4, Dymytrova 5, MOlimpiyska,

tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, fax (+380) 44 201 66 22,
www.aromacafe.com.ua. A nice friendly place to relax
and have light meals and breakfast. Mellow music is played;
there is Wi-Fi, a moderately priced English menu. Aroma
belongs to a world-wide chain of coffee shops with a good
reputation. We tried one of the house specialties, “Aroma
Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children are welcome. Also at
Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, tel.:
(+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAVGBXSW
new

Baobab Mistycal Café C-3, Volodymyrska 18/2, tel.

(+380) 96 451 01 01, www.bao-bab.kiev.ua. Have you
ever visited one of those quaint little coffee-shops in Lviv? Well,
there are couple of them right here in Kyiv. The aroma hits you
when you walk in the door. They have that classic “Lviv-Coffee”
design that makes one feel warm and cosy, and the music
played is mellow and pleasant. There is coffee from all around
the world as well, chocolate, ice cream, and homemade cakes.
Also at Shota Rustaveli 26. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. PAGW
Café Imbir (Ginger) H-3, Zhylianska 7, MOlimpiyska, tel.
(+380) 44 287 61 80, www.cafeimbir.com. Reminded us of
the TV series Harry’s law - The lawyer took over the premises of
a designer shoe and kept on selling the shoes. Ginger took over a
home decorations store and continues to sell home decorations.
It’s a café-restaurant with a lovely atmosphere offering vegetarian
food with a vegan menu. An average meal will cost around 150Hr.
Breakfast is served all day long and there is a business lunch
as well from 12:00-16:00 costing 60Hr. In addition to the house
decorations there is a shop selling oils, Asian spices, incense,
and more. There are live concerts of Indian music from time to
time so check it out - it is an experience you will not want to miss!
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PiAEW
Chashka B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 1-3, tel. (+380) 50
416 34 16. Forget the address - you will never find it that
way. Just make your way to the Pinchuck Art Gallery - opposite the Bessarabs’ka market-Chashka is two doors to the
left of it. There is seating outside and inside where there is
a trendy Italian type of décor. As the name implies one can
get a good cuppa here. There is also limited menu know as
“Little Italy”. The prices are very reasonable ranging from
45Hr-65Hr. It is a great place to hang out or bring your device
and check your emails. Speaking English is natural there.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JB
Dragee Café B-2, Lvivska ploscha, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 93 603 24 45, www.dragee.com.ua. Located in
a cute little park right in the heart of Lvivska ploscha, this
little café has a great though limited menu of European/
Italian cuisine. A meal for 2 runs about 300Hr. and there are
specialties that change weekly. There is a 30% discount for
all meals between 12:00-16:00 weekdays. From Thursdays
to Saturdays there is a DJ that begins around 20:00 and it’s
a real party atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. PTAEGW
Galytskyi Shtrudel H-3, Saksahans’koho 18, tel.
(+380) 44 287 07 33. A nice homey-type place where you
can eat all kinds of strudel. There are 12 of the sweet variety
and 12 savoury ones. The contents change from time to
time. One can even see them being made through a kitchen
window! The décor is classic Ukrainian and it seats about
45. The idea of the eatery stems from an Austrian who made
strudels for his wife in Lviv in the 1800’s, and then opened
a place to sell them. You don’t need a menu as you can look
and point-the staff speak English and can help you. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Kyiv In Your Pocket

La Cantina B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 20, MZoloti Vorota, tel.

(+380) 44 234 70 74, www.la-catania.com.ua. A nice
little cafe-restaurant close to the Golden Gate. There is an
English menu and nice background music. It’s not so big, holds
about 40. It has a lovely design and reminds one of being
in Italy. Their specialty is stone-grilled meats; steak, turkey,
chicken, and scrimp. We really enjoyed the turkey breast steak
with garlic and curry for 89Hr. An average meal runs about
350Hr-400Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 00:00.
Repriza A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 502 23 46, www.repriza.com. One
of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Viennese
room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain the
kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specialising in
danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need
of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups
and salads. Also located at D-3, Sahaidachnoho 10/5; B-2,
Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. PTAGBS
SkyArtCafé B-5, Сhervonoarmiyska-Baseyna 1-3/2,
ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. This unique
café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk Art Centre.
The décor is pure white and of a special geometrical design
with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright we had to wear
sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in English and contains
soups, salads, and light meals. Prices are moderate to pricy. It
is closed when the Art Center is closed for changing exhibits.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. PAGBXW

Pay-for-Time
5 Komnat A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 6, MLva Tolstoho,
tel. (+380)67 899 67 54, www.5-komnat.com. The
entrance is through an archway (Remember in Ukraine an
arch can be rectangular shaped-not round). And be careful for the very steep stairs. If you have been drinking, we
suggest you put off your visit for another time. It is “Pay for
Time” place, with free coffee, tea, snacks, and games. The
cost is 20Hr for the first hour and 10Hr for each additional
hour. The café is actually 5 underground rooms all joined
together to give a tunnel -like effect. The décor is definitely
“Late Brezhnev” with a very relaxing, casual atmosphere.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 6ENGW
Smart café Biblioteсh G-3, Saksahanskoho 120,
MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 351 19 90, www.
bibliotech.com.ua. Here is a first. Instead of paying for
what one orders - simply pay for the time there. 36Hr for
the 1st hour and 18Hr for each additional hour - or 72Hr for
the whole day. From Monday-Friday the 1st hour is 18Hr
before 16:00. So what does one get for this? Plenty! Free
coffee, tea, and all the juice one can squeeze. There are
cookies, sweets, and toast. Bring your own food if you
want or order from Dominos Pizza and get a discount.
There are X-boxes, table football, ping pong, and a photo
copier/scanner - all for free. There is also a “seminar”
room where different workshops are held. Q Open
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PNGW
Tsyferblat B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, tel. (+380) 63
745 44 34. Not too easy to find as it is located in the back
parking area. This is one of those “Pay for Time” places
that are becoming quite popular in Kyiv. One pays by the
hour; the first hour is 30Hr and each additional hour is
15Hr. There is unlimited coffee, tea, and snacks. There is
WiFi, books, and lots of “table games” available. They even
have fresh editions of Wall Street Journal,The Times, The
Herald Tribune etc. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PNGW
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

44 383 80 86. We had the address so we knew we were
close, yet even the café 10 meters away had never heard of
it. It turns out – they never got around to putting up a sign. By
chance, we opened a heavy metal door and there we were-like
going into another dimension as the décor is “New York Loft”.
There is a great limited menu with European and American
dishes with such items as salads, meats, fish, burgers, and
fries. The prices are very reasonable averaging from 45-65Hr
per dish. They have a great bartender known for his special
cocktails. Good music is played always and on Wednesdays
and Fridays there is a DJ. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAGS
Dorothy’s Pub A-5, Saksahans’koho 16/43, ML’va
Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 05 30. The sign out front read
“Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I been
transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes of Monument Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds glaring at me
from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles and the sweet
smell of Western American style barbecue creeping out from under
the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t
be. The service here is far too good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who
the hell is Dorothy? As it turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling
is not sitting next to me munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a
Czech beer, nor is he sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if
he were still alive I’m sure he would not object to such a wonderful
mishmash of sites, sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No
one seemed to know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great
specials! QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAIEGS
Fun Bar Banka A-4, L’va Tolstoho 11/61, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 458 25 25, www.bankabar.com.
ua. As the name implies – it is a fun bar – we saw lots of
students there. The décor is unique with lots of Campbell
Soup posters on display. They serve great food as well! It
is European menu – in English with an average meal costing about 150Hr. The Business Lunch is great for just 44Hr
weekdays from 12-16. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15,
MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta.
ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught
beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There
are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans,
and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers
business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULVEGBXS
Lucky Pub A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 13, ML’va Tolstoho,
tel. (+380) 44 499 13 13, www.karta.ua. Lucky hasn’t been
open for long, but it’s already proven a big hit with travellers,
expats and locals alike. This is arguably the finest sports viewing
venue in the city. We went on the night of a critical World Cup
qualifying match and the place was booked solid. Eleven LCDs
are strategically placed throughout the pub, 12 types of beer are
on tap and the fare is familiar, delicious and reasonably priced.
We joined a group of rowdy Brits in the football room and had a
splendid time. Live music goes from 21:00 - 01:00 Thursday Saturday. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PALEGKX
Naturlih Pub B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, MTeatral’na,
tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih.com.ua. The
most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of draft
beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. Have the
barman pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, Belgian,
Irish or local brewski, then sit back and watch the bustling
hordes hike up historic Khmel’nts’koho street from the cosy
view inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrumptious menu items
to go with the suds including German style sausages, pasta,
pizza and classy euro dinner items. The spacious halls and
laid-back atmosphere are conducive for conversations. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PJAGXW

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Kyiv Nightlife Scene
Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There
is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre,
but don‘t be surprised if you encounter more of your own
countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments.
It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends,
especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer
drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays,
the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile
traffic, making it Kyiv‘s most active scene for nightlife,
people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little
more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are
just as busy now as any time of the year.
If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe,
you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced
drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs.
A few differences you might note are the availability of
hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional
dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for
men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young,
attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to
spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks.

Pivbar Beer & Beef C-4, Globus Shopping Mall - 2nd
part, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 99 044 33
34, www.piv-bar.com.ua. This is a great beer bar right in
the centre of town with room for 200. There are all sorts of
beer - the specialty being beer in a jar with a dry-salted fish to
accompany it. They have a great limited menu - the special is
their assorted grill – unlimited meat for just 139Hr. Definitely
worth it! On Friday there is a DJ, and Saturday and Sunday
there is a live rock group. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAW
Radio Bar A-5, H-3, Rustaveli 12, MPalats Sportu,
tel. (+380) 44 383 21 21. It is not called Radio Bar to be
cool or chic, but because it actually is used to broadcast
live programs on Kyiv Europa Plus 107FM. It is located in a
basement not far from Palace Sport Metro Station and holds
around 180 people. There is live music most nights from
20:00. They have a great cocktail list, and lots of beer. The
limited menu offers Italian type food, pasta & pizza and tasty
burgers too! Burgers run about 72 Hr and a complete meal will
run around 150 Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. PAEGW
Sunduk C-3, I-2, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. The main features of
this classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill
transactions made via a treasure chest. In spite of a noticeable attempt to copy Western styles in the interior, the
music is very Eastern. The dishes and drinks listed on the
menu are not necessarily present in the kitchen. Nevertheless, if you plan to arrive after 18:00, it would be better to
reserve a table beforehand and prepare for being consumed
by cigarette smoke even in the room for non-smokers.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAE
Trolleybus Pub B-4, H-2, Prorizna 21, MZoloti Vorota,
tel. (+380) 44 279 34 34, www.trallebus.com. It’s more
than a pub-restaurant; it’s a shrine to “trolley buses”! It’s not
far from the “Golden Gate” and contains memorabilia galore
along with old photos of trolley buses and depicting the
glorious days of the Soviet Union. There is also a display of
“carpet paintings” and lots of souvenirs. There is seating for
100 which includes a covered terrace and a VIP section. The
cuisine is Ukrainian and European with the speciality being
their “hot pots”, lots of different beer, and a large selection
of cocktails. An average meal will run around 100Hr. There is
a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-15:00 for just 45Hr.
QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGXW
Winter 2013 - 2014

33

Nightlife

34

Clubs
Arena Entertainment B-5, I-3, Basseina 2A, ML’va

Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev.
com/eng. This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision
2005 participants. It is an entertainment complex accommodating several bars and a night club under one roof. In
any case, you may wind up your night out in the night club
partying untill dawn. Q Open: restaurant and Beer House
09:00 - 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun
22:00 - 06:00. POALEBK
Art Club 44 B-4, H-3, Khreschatyk 44, MKhreshatyk,
tel. (+380) 279 41 37. The legendary Kyiv cellar on Khreschatyk has, after extensive remodeling, reopened for business. Among the noticeable changes are the prices, plasma
monitors and a big screen projector. But that is neither here
nor there. The fact of the matter is, that this is one of the
only joints in Kyiv where the music is raw, loud and saturated
with adrenaline. Over the years, 44 has become a favourite
for artists, musicians, writers and pseudo-intellectuals. Don’t
let the aesthetic changes disorient you. Head for the well, and
choose from the offering of more than 15 varieties of beer.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. LE
Azhur A-4, H-2, Leontovycha 3, MUniversytet, tel.
(+380) 44 234 74 94, fax (+380) 44 278 50 05, www.
avalon.ua. This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv
night life. The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s provides a bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis
Presley, Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and
the Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. POALEXS
Boom Boom Room G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. 33,
MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 95 514 88 88, www.boomboomroom.com.ua. Boom Boom Room has gotten the reputation of being “the after party place” in Kyiv. People go there
when other places closed. It’s called a Night & Day Club as it is
sometimes open to mid-morning. First impression is stunning!
The design is “Neon” and covers two large dance floors. There is
good music and good DJ’s. The atmosphere is relaxed - none of
the snobbish type visit here-mostly students and young adults.
There are some excellent cocktails - at moderate prices. (No
food!) There is no entrance, but one must register on Facebook.
Once approved, one is put on a list and notified. There is still a
strict dress code to pass upon entering. We took this to mean
face profiling. QOpen 23:00 - 08:00. PAEXW
new

City Beach Club Zima 2-A, 2-G, Vorovskoho 24,

MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 67 507 55 51, citybeachclub.kiev.ua. We walked in expecting to see pools and
bikinis. Instead, we found a restaurant in one part and a
disco/karaoke room in the other. It is very spacious with a
black-stylish décor. The food is excellent with such items as
roast Duck in wine and fig sauce for just 195Hr. An average
meal runs about 400Hr and there is a business lunch from
12:00-17:00 for 80Hr. There is Karaoke nightly from 21:00.
There is a disco with a DJ Fridays through Sundays. Everyone
was friendly and spoke great English. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAGKW
Disco Radio Hall I-1, Moskovskyi prosp. 32, tel. (+380)
44 428 73 88, www.disco-club.kiev.ua. This fashionable
nightclub is wedged in the hull of a floating entertainment
complex that also houses a karaoke club and a Japanese restaurant. It attracts some of Kyiv’s hipper residents including
local celebrities. Well-known DJs and many exciting live acts
fill the club’s docket. Tables can be reserved for 300-1000Hr,
and an admission fee applies. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 50-80Hr for males, 50-60Hr for females.
Sun is free for females. PALK

Kyiv In Your Pocket

Docker’s ABC B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4A, MKhres-

chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker.com.ua.
There aren’t many venues which encourage their customers
to dance on the table, but Docker ABC is just that! This
Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands play
to an enthusiastic crowd determined to dance and flirt until
sunrise. All manner of cocktails are available at reasonable
prices, and the service is warm and friendly. This is a café
and bar during the day and a night club in the evenings. The
menu, in both English and German languages, is of European
and Ukrainian cuisine. Live music with a dock style interior.
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTJAE
D*Lux Entertainment C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3,
MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91,
www.dlux.com.ua. A Spacious, huge complex with a 2 story
disco, lounge bars with live music, 2 terrace-restaurants, and
a gift shop. Well known DJ’s perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers).
The staff was friendly and English speaking. The menu is in
English, not so large and not so cheap. Entrance (for parties
only) is 200Hr for men and 100Hr for women. A strict dress
code; smart, casual, is strictly enforced. Disco is from 00:0006:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBXSW
Сoyote Ugly B-6, Mechnikova 9A, MKlovska, tel.
(+380) 44 280 06 78, www.coyoteuglysaloon.com/
kiev. Coyote Ugly Saloon is a famous bar in the United States
and is now in 13 locations across the country. Coyote Ugly also
has bars in Russia, Germany, and Romania. The Coyote Ugly
Saloon officially opened its doors in Kiev on July 10, 1993. It
is a club whose simple theme is to combine beautiful women
and large amounts of alcohol-which Ukraine has plenty of! It is a
very large club catering to a young crowd mostly in their 20’s &
early 30’s. With the latest disco hits played. There are various
party themes and guest DJ’s nearly every week when there is
an entrance fee, otherwise it is free entrance. They even their
own brand of whiskey and a gift shop with a limited range of
underwear, clothing, and souvenirs. A great place to dance the
night away. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALW
Sorry Babushka G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka.
com.ua. Out with the old and in with the new! This club has
elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once popular
Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually been made to the
new club’s interior, but with a completely overhauled concept,
Babushka has become an immediate hit among the capital’s
clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find karaoke, the second floor
spins 80’s and 90’s and disco until your platforms cave in on
the third floor. There’s a karaoke tournament every Wednesday - the winner receives a DVD player. Other special offers
can be found throughout the week at Babushka’s Vnuchata
(grandchildren’s) Party. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PA

What to see
Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous golddomed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanctuaries
of worship that impress with their history and art. Since
everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly
created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums,
historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air
museum on the edge of the city limits.

Essential Kyiv
Andrew’s De­scent C-2,
MKontraktova Ploscha.
This is without a doubt one
of Kyiv’s oldest and most
beloved streets. In ancient
times it linked the administrative part of the upper
town with Podil, the lower
town of merchants and artisans. This steep and winding
cobblestone lined descent is
a traditional venue for outdoor festivals and fairs, and is dotted with numerous intriguing
art galleries, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. Being
at the very heart of the city’s art community, the street is a
favourite stop for tourists in search of paintings and traditional
Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well-known repository for all
souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans come out in full force
on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing building at N°15
is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard’s Castle.” It is currently
under reconstruction, but no worries...a hidden gem is around
back. Head down the street, and to the right you’ll find a steep,
twisting flight of iron steps. Those with calf muscles tough
enough to conquer the climb are rewarded with a commanding vantage point above Podil and the Dnipro. The Bulgakov
Museum is a must visit for literary enthusiasts, and is located
at N°13. At the bottom of the hill, turn left to Kontraktova
ploscha or right to reach Sahaidachnoho vul., an oasis for
connoisseurs and coffee lovers.
Golden Gate B-3,
Vo l o d y m y r s ’ k a 4 0 ,
M Zoloti Vor ota, tel.
(+380) 44 234 70 68.
Zoloti Vorota, one of the
most unique architectural/
archaeological sites in Kyiv,
reopened in 2007 after a
lengthy reconstruction. The
remains of ancient Kyiv’s
main gate were originally
c on s tru c te d durin g th e
height of the Kyivan Rus, and are included on the UNESCO
World Heritage list. Painstakingly planned by historians and
architects, the bright new construction that entombs the
ancient walls is considered an exact replica of the original
gate. From the platforms, the views of Volodymys’ka vul. and
surrounding area are stunning enough to justify the price of
admission. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. 15Hr for adults, 8Hr for children and students.
House With Chimeras C-5, Bankova 10, MKhres-

chatyk. Built more than a century ago by eccentric Kyivite
Wladislaw Horodecki, this is the most unique structure in
Kyiv. Sophisticated architectural forms are buried beneath
the phantasmal figures of Horodecki’s dreams. The elephant trunk storm drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic frogs,
mermaids and other figures are constructed of cement, a
state-of-the-art material back in the 19th century. A local
cement factory owner provided Horodecki with a complimen-

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

tary supply knowing that the
interest generated by such
an unusual h om e would
pay-off. Ahead of its time,
the design makes full use of
the uneven Kyiv landscape:
Three stories rise on one
side and six descend the
hill on the other. The interior
design was also considered
radically modern, and included an ice room for food
storage, a wine cellar, a
laundry room, a garage for horse drawn carriages and even a
special room for Horodecki’s cow. This insured fresh milk for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded in mystery and legend,
this place continues to intrigue visitors. By now (December
2013), Bankova street is closed due to the protests in Kyiv.

Independence Square

C-4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti. Kyiv’s central square
h a s un d er gon e ma j or
changes in recent years,
b o t h a b ove an d b el o w
ground. The square is locally referred to as “The Big
Greenhouse.” That’s not a
botanical compliment but
rather an indictment of the
Globus Shopping Centre’s
glassy domes. Throughout Soviet times, October Revolution
Square, as it was known, featured a daunting Lenin statue.
Despite the seemingly constant modifications, Maidan has
been the city’s epicentre for generations. In 2004, it gained
world notoriety for staging the events of the Orange Revolution. Images of the square circulated the globe for weeks as
Ukrainians from all walks of life changed/delayed the course
of Ukrainian history. On November 21, 2013 the rallies has
started in Kyiv and other cities following the government’s
decision to stop European Union integration by rejecting an
association agreement. After the police crackdown on the
Euromaidan, thousands and thousands of people gathered
to stand for their rights.

Khr eschatyk B-4/5,

C-4, M Khreschatyk.
From its start at European Square to its terminus
at Bessarabs’ka Square,
Kyiv’s most beloved street
is not even two kilometres
l on g. D espi te wha t has
been called the most impressive unbroken string
of Stalinist archi te cture
any where, Khreschatyk’s
wide chestnut lined sidewalks are ideal for a relaxing stroll.
The trees provide both welcome shade from the blistering
summer sun and shelter from the region’s signature spring
downpours. On weekends and holidays, the street becomes
a pedestrian only thoroughfare where locals, travellers and
street performers mingle and frolic. It’s hard to imagine that
this was once a deep valley surrounded by dense forest. The
valley was named Khreschata (crossed) in reference to the
many ravines that converged in the area. In ancient times,
Kyivan Rus princes hunted wild game here (the only hunting
done on Khreschatyk these days is for souvenirs, fashion
and fashionable Ukrainian women). Some of the city’s best
shopping can be found both above and below ground. Trendy
malls have been dug beneath Bessarabs’ka and Maidan

Winter 2013 - 2014

35

36

What to see
Nezalezhnosti. Perhaps in an act of poetic justice the whole
street will collapse under this retail strain and revert back
to a lush valley. By the time we go to print with this issue,
Khreschatyk is occupied by the Euromaidan protesters.

St. Andrew’s Church

C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 23,
MKontraktova Ploscha,
tel. (+380) 44 278 58
61. Famous Italian architect
Bar tolomeo Rastrelli was
the mastermind behind this
attractive Baroque church
that greets the throngs at
the top of Andriivs’kyi uzviz.
Built in 1754, it’s one of the
rare buildings in Kyiv that has
managed to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas
are easily visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who
was the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was
said to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish
of Peter the Great’s religiously-minded daughter, Elizabeth,
after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It must
be said that compared to the beautiful exterior, the interior is
rather disappointing - too much loud red and gold colours and
really not much to see. Console yourself with a stroll around
the church’s perimeter, a walk which the famous Ukrainian
writer Gogol also enjoyed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.

St. Michael’s GoldenDomed Cathedral C-3,

Mykhailivs’ka ploscha,
MMaidan Nezalezhnosti,
tel. (+380) 44 279 22 48.
St. Michael’s Cathedral is
located opposite St. Sophia’s
Cathedral. The original, built
by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108,
was destroyed by the Soviet
regime in the 1930s for having “no historical value.” The
reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky
blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to a
cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and
newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin’s inhumane
policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds. This
is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): A famine
orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to
squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians perished
from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are the reconstructed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill and
St. Mephodius. After the police violently break up Euromaidan
early morning 30 November 2013, St Michael's Cathedral and
the square in front of it became the centre of the protests. For
the time we go to print, it is still serves as one of the Euromaidan
areas. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily at 08:00 and
17:00, and on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00.

St. Sophia’s Cathedral B-3, Volodymyrs’ka

24, MZoloti Vorota, tel.
(+380) 44 279 22 56.
Kyiv’s oldest standing church,
St. Sophia’s was built in 1037
by Prince Yaroslav the Wise,
who incidentally was laid to
rest inside. He commissioned
the project to commemorate
the site of a victory of Kyivan
Rus over the Pechenegs
(Asian nomadic tribes) and to

Kyiv In Your Pocket

glorify Christianity. It was named after the famous St. Sophia’s
Cathedral in Constantinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined Yaroslav’s Palace and became a holy place of
worship for Kyivites as well as a political and cultural centre.
Today the entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and also
receives support from UNESCO. The 18th century refectory
works as a museum and contains archaeological artefacts
and architectural displays, such as models depicting Kyiv
as it looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240.
It costs a meagre 3Hr to enter the grounds. To enter the
cathedral itself, purchase tickets from the kiosk around the
corner from the bell tower entrance. As you exit don’t forget to
pose for the postcard - perfect picture with Cossack leader
Bohdan Khmelnyts’kyi on his horse against the backdrop of
St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided tours in English
are available (80 - 100Hr). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Hr for all exhibits for adults,
20Hr for children and students. Entrance to the Bell Tower
costs 10Hr/6Hr. Entrance to the Catherdral’s area costs 3Hr.

St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral A-4, T.Shevchenka

bul’v. 20, MUniversytet,
tel. (+380) 44 35 53 85.
The Cathedral was built from
1862-1882 in a so called
Russian pseudo-Byzantine
style. The frescos inside
were made by famous Russian, Ukrainian and Polish
artists, such as Vasnetsov,
Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko
and Svedomsky. The church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox
denomination. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. Services are held daily at
08:00 and 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00.
Motherland J-4, Ivana
Mazepy 44, MArsenal’na.
An enormous stainless steel
statue of a fierce female
warrior (68 m high, standing
on a 40 m pedestal and
holding a 12-ton sword in
her right hand and a shield
in the left) dominates the
heights above the Dnipro
Ri ver. Giant, threatening
and inescapable, the statue
is known locally as ‘Brezhnev’s Mother’, as L. Brezhnev
opened the monument in 1981. Below the statue there is
a worth visiting museum of the Great Patriotic War and the
military exhibition.

Museums

Bulgakov Museum C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 31 88/(+380)
67 493 45 25, bulgakov.org.ua. The celebrated Russian
writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916
and again from 1918-1919. It was here that he wrote the
novel The White Guard and the play Days of Turbins. The
old Bulgakov family home is now home to the Bulgakov Museum, which displays the author’s personal things and family
photos. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
Wed. Admission 30Hr. Excursion (up to 15 persons) - 100Hr.
FC Dynamo Kyiv museum at NSC Olimpiyskiy

A-6, Velyka Vasylkivska 55, tel. (+380) 44 597 00
15/(+380) 44 597 00 16. The museum was founded on
14 April, 2012. The exposition includes many FC Dynamo
Kyiv trophies from over 85 years of football history, photo
archives and some very unique trophies.

(+380) 44 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 54 19, www.
honchar.org.ua. The Museum was founded in September
1993 and is based on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private
collection. During the Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who manifested interest in his collection
were registered with the KGB. The collection represents the
“Ukrainahood” of the 17-20th centuries and has 15 000
pieces. The centre piece of Honchar’s collection are the
folk pictures, the inventive hero “Mamai Cossack” is especially popular. Also impressive is the elaborate collection of
clothes from the 18-19th centuries (2500 samples) as well
as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, dishes, crockery and
zoomorphic ceramic toys). QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed
Mon. Admission 15Hr, 3Hr for children.

Kyiv Fortress Museum A-6, Hospital’na 24A, MPalats
Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 01 46. This part of the city’s fortifications was built in 1844. Arguably, this structure’s history
has more do with defenseless people rather than defending
people. It was here that supporters of the Tsar carried out
executions of political prisoners, including the leaders of a
Polish rebellion, in the 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th
century, participants in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment
met the same fate. Also during this time, ammunition and
weapons were stored in this semi-underground fortress with
solid brick and stone walls. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14Hr.
Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection
D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel.
(+380) 44 463 76 69, modern-museum.org.ua. On the
17th of June 2005 the first Museum of Modern Art of Ukraine
has hospitably greeted its visitors. First it was founded in a
historical part of Kyiv, but in December 2009 the Museum
moved to a new three-stories building at Glybochytska 17.
Sufficient room (about 3.5 thousand square metres) enabled
the creation of the first independent exposition of the best
works in the collection (it is located on the second and third
floors of the Museum). The exposition is to be changed
every two years. Today the Museum displays collections of
ancient Ukrainian icons, classics of Ukrainian painting of the
beginning of the 20th century, Ukrainian art of realism and
sociorealism of the second half of the ХХ century are widely
represented here as well as the works by underground artists of 1960-1970s. There are also available two exhibition
halls for temporary displays (the entire 1st floor and the small
exhibition hall of the third floor). There is a functioning library
in the Museum; theoretically-practical activities take place in
a lecture hall: master-classes, lections, seminars, round-table
discussions, conferences with invited Ukrainian and foreign
art-scholars, artists and gallerists. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr, for students 10Hr.

Museum of Russian Art A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9,
MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 18, www.kmrm.
com.ua/eng. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one
of the largest collections of Russian art is housed here. The
building belonged to the upper-class Tereschenko family and
was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and
nationalised by the Soviets along with the Tereschenkos’
holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s exhibits when it
was opened in 1922. The most prized displays are a collection of exceptional Russian icons dating back to the late 13th
century. The museum features artwork from many famous
Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel and N. Rerikh, as
well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. Kids should be
kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if little people get
too close to exhibits. QOpen Tue, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Wed, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 30Hr, 10Hr
for students, 5Hr for children. English tours 250Hr.
kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Chernobyl

It’s not every trip abroad you have the chance to visit
the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, is it? The
Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is only about a two-hour
ride north of Kyiv. Travel agencies offer a day trip to the
region, wisely realising that the market for overnight stays
is not great. You can actually enter the contaminated zone,
where you’ll be joined by your English-speaking guide, who
will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance).
You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where
some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which
47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and
have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding
villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields
filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used
in the cleanup is optional. And in case you’re wondering, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of
radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to
be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy
your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National
Museum of Chernobyl.

traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 54 27. This
museum does an excellent job of actually making you feel
like you are at the site of the infamous nuclear accident.
Road signs from towns and villages near Chernobyl greet
you as you ascend the stairs, and as you descend the
signs are crossed out to signify your departure. It’s usually rather empty, but then again so is the contamination
zone. A few exhibits could be a bit scary for kids, such
as life-sized costumes with gas masks and pictures of
deformed animals. Audio-guide is available in English, German, Russian and Ukrainian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr.

Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo,
marshrutkas #172 and 156 from, MLybids’ka, tel.
(+380) 44 526 57 65/(+380) 44 526 25 27, nmnapu.
org.ua. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say “Let’s go to
the 16th century Carpathians” and then find yourself there in
a matter of minutes. No…we’re not offering you a ride in Doc
Brown’s Delorean time machine. It’s Pyrohovo - a picturesque
open-air museum of old Ukrainian lifestyle and folk culture.
The museum is divided into areas representing different
regions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or
wooden shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate
an authentic village atmosphere. Everything is meant to
bring you back to the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries.
At Pyrohovo you will find wooden churches, windmills,
and even a school building typical of rural areas from
recent centuries. Different kinds of structures (watermills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, granaries “komora”,
threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, apiaries,
hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story of
how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at
the museum seems very authentic, that’s because it
really is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were
moved here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine.
From the main entrance, the road leads you across a
large wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with
the Church of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday
(Cherkassy region, 1742), the small Church of the Archangel Michael (1601), and a unique collection of windmills
“vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, you will come to the Podillia
sector with the Church of Saint Nicholas and a bell tower
from the beginning of the 19th century, brought here from
the Husiatyn area. At the centre of the museum’s territory the Poltavschyna and Slobozhanschyna complex is
arranged. A little farther on, visitors can see the Polissye
sector dominated by the unique hip-roof Voskresens’ka
Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). The exposition
of village huts (khatas) here is unique for their age (1587 to
1687). In the northern part of the museum, the Carpathian
sector features scattered small farms, with the bell tower
of the ancient Pokrovs’ka Church rising above.
But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find
stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ceramics, household and farming equipment, and of course
the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and
was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping.
Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with
plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely
afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around
faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride.
And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church
service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum’s beautiful
ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul.
Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and September, to mark the beginning and the end of the season.
But don’t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of festivals
and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole season.
Main national and religious holidays are celebrated here according to folk traditions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission
30Hr, 10Hr for students. English-speaking guides available.
Kyiv In Your Pocket

Museum of the Great Patriotic War J-4, Lavrs’ka 24,
MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 285 94 52, www.warmuseum.kiev.ua. This World War II memorial complex, which
opened in 1981, includes a museum with 18 different galleries, an eternal flame, plaques honouring particularly heroic
Soviet cities and an outdoor display containing military planes
and other equipment from various wars. The centrepiece of
it all is of course the massive titanium statue of a woman,
62m tall to be exact, grasping a 12-ton sword and a shield.
Honouring Soviet defenders during World War II, its Socialist
Realism style is an interesting contrast to the nearby ancient
golden domes of Pechers’ka Lavra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, 3Hr for students. 36 m view
point - 50Hr, 91m view point - 200Hr.
National Art Museum C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6,
MMaidan Nezalezhosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57,
www.namu.kiev.ua. Built in the late 19th century in the
style of a Greek temple with a six-column portico designed
by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi and Boytsov, valuable collections largely unknown to Western visitors are contained
in the museum’s 21 galleries. Pieces include Ukrainian icons,
paintings, and sculptures from the 14th century through the
early 20th century. Works of revered artist and poet Taras
Shevchenko, M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are
some of the highlights of the museum. QOpen Wed, Thu, Sun
10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 20Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children.
National History Museum C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2,

MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 24. Located on
a bluff above Andriivs’kyi uzviz, this museum carries forth
on a wide range of topics concerning Ukraine’s history from
prehistoric times up to the present day. There are extensive
collections of old books, coins and bills, works of art and archaelogical and ethnographical findings. Behind the museum is a
path that leads to a wonderful view from Old Kyiv’s highest point
overlooking the lower town of Podil. QOpen 10:00 - 16:45.
Closed Wed. Admission 24Hr, 12Hr for students and children.

(+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua.
The house was owned by a famous collector of art and benefactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and his wife Varvara
(1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their private collection,
a museum was opened in this house. For a long period of time
it was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern
Art. Now its initial name has been given back. The embellishments of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance
masters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s
holdings of North European countries. The exposition of Spanish art includes two true gems from the XVII century - “Portrait
of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with
Chocolate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20-30Hr, 10Hr for students.

The National Museum “Memorial in Commemoration of Famines’ Victims in Ukraine” C-6, Lavrs’ka,

tel. (+380) 44 254 45 11, www.memorialgolodomors.org.
During the whole existence of the Soviet Union regime Ukrainian
people endured horrible tragedies - famines of 1921-1922,
1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions of Ukrainian’s
lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of 20th century for
Ukraine was an artificially engineered by Stalin’s regime Famine
of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 000 people died. Museum
is dedicated to the victims of these awful tragedies. Excursions
are held every hour from 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5Hr. Excursion in English 100r.

What to see
onestreet.kiev.ua. This fascinating little museum near
the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this
important street through the years. Special attention is paid
to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the
turn of the 20th century. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20Hr. English guided tours 150Hr.

The Pharmacy Museum D-2, Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7,

MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 37. You
may be wondering just how much enjoyment can be had out
of a museum whose sole subject is the history of pharmaceuticals, but when you think of the vital role drugs play in
the lives of the capitals legions of cold sufferers it becomes
clear that this cosy little museum is a must of social history.
The building is in great condition and dates back to 1728.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15Hr, 10Hr for children.

The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine C-3, Desiatynna

12, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 83 08. This
museum is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In bright
spacious halls of museum more than 300 first class works of
Ukrainian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented
from almost all regions from West to East of Ukraine and more
than 100 iconograthical images and themes. The museum
has also the collection of the works of the world-known
Ukrainian painter Maria Prymachenko. 50 of her best works
of naive art are presented at the museum. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children
and students 5Hr.

Toys museum C-6, Klovs’kyi uzviz 8, MKlovs’ka, tel.

(+380) 44 253 54 00. This museum is located on the
ground floor of the State Centre of the out of School Education. The first hall has collections of hand made dolls from a
variety of fairy tales; the second hall has authentic Ukrainian
dolls; and the third one presents Ukrainian history through the
dolls’ history. The oldest dolls in the collection were made in
the 1930s; the youngest were made just recently. Do not miss
the first Ukrainian transformer among the collection of 10,000
toys. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 10Hr, 5Hr for children,students. PT

Water Information Centre D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1C,

MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 33,
www.aqua-kiev.info. Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi
Park (behind European Square and The Philharmonic) will
notice the two towers rising above the tree line. They host
a museum of water, which contains information on water
resources: natural water circulation, potable water purification, new technologies and water’s chemical components.
Entering the centre you descend in an elevator to a depth of
20 meters and are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admission adults 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. QOpen Wed,
Thu, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 25Hr, 20Hr children and students.

Jewish Kyiv
With the beginning of Perestroika in 1985, Jewish communities
that had suffered under the Communist regime began to be
become more active. Jewish leaders from all over the world
came to Ukraine to restore religious structures and revive the
formerly oppressed communities. Brodsky Shul, the centre of
Jewish religious and cultural life, is located in what used to be
the Jewish quarter near Palats Sportu. Across the street is the
Great Kyiv Synagogue Community Centre, a multifunctional
institution that unites the activities of the synagogue, humanitarian aid projects, cultural and language education. Since the
Bolshevik Revolution, Jewish Ukrainians were oppressed in
both their public and private lives. During the Great Patriotic
War, as World war II is referred to here, Ukrainian Jews were
executed by the thousands in western villages and cities. The
worst slaughter in Kyiv occurred at the Babiy Yar, meaning the

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

Mamajeva Sloboda
Cossack’s Settlement
Mamajeva Sloboda E-3,

Dontsia 2, tel. (+380)
44 361 98 48/(+380)
063 782 78 31 (excursions department), www.
mamajeva-sloboda.ua. In
the middle of XVII century
French engineer and cartographer Guillaume Le Vasseur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est
Terra Cosacorum” (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost
400 years after in seven kilometres from the main street of
Ukraine’s capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda
Cossacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda
with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares
and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting
Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. In just few
steps from the main gate of the settlement (Tsarina) you
feel yourself transferred into the Cossacks epoch of the
17th - 18th centuries. Then after visiting the unique Cossacks three-domed wooden church founded in the name
of Intercession of the Holy Virgin you’ll be treated as the
most welcome visitor of the estates of a Churchwarden, a
Potter, a Blacksmith, a Cossack-dzhura (Cossack armour
bearer) and a Fortune-teller. We also can recommend
you to taste historical traditional dishes in their shynok
(Ukrainian restaurant). QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission
100Hr. Excursions in English, German, French, Italian and
Spanish are available, but must be arranged in advance.
For 10 people and more excursion costs 130 Hr.

City Tours
Horlytsia I-5, Velyka Kytaivska 10A, office 4, MLybids-

ka, tel. (+380) 44 220 20 95 (working hours)/(+380) 97
886 46 44 (out of working hours), office@horlytsia.com,
www.horlytsia.com. Horlytsia invites all guest of Ukraine to
discover unforgettable beauty of Kyiv city and other hot-spot
places around the country. Exciting sightseeing tours, interesting excursions, culinary trips, all kinds of travel services, all at
very competitive prices. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A
Mysterious Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, tour@
interesniy.kiev.ua, www.interesniy.kiev.ua. Mysterious Kyiv propose exclusive tours on Secret Kyiv places,
Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro river, tours
to Chernobyl Zone. Excursions in your language.
NSC Olimpiyskiy Tours A-6, VelykaVasylkivska
55, tel. (+380) 44 590 66 96/(+380) 67 323 40
49, excursion@nsc-olimpiyskiy.com.ua, www.nscolimpiyskiy.com.ua. Take a tour and have a look behind
the scenes of the largest stadium in Ukraine. Even for
those who cannot discern forward from goalkeeper, the
tour will be really exciting, informative and interactive.
The tours are conducted Wed, Fri, and Sat (11:00, 13:00,
15:00, 17:00), and on Sun (11:00, 13:00, 15:00).
Open Kiev tel. (+380) 44 227 28 63, www.openkiev.
com.ua. Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus tours on open
top double deckers. The first circle of the tour starts at 10:00
from the stop next to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. You can catch
a bus on one of 25 stops around Kyiv, then take off at any
of them, have a stroll down Khreschatyk or any other and
catch the bus again. Buses go roughly every 20 minutes.
Commentaries available in English, Russian and Ukrainian.
Q2-days ticket 250Hr, children 150Hr, under 7 for free.

Winter 2013 - 2014

39

40

What to see
Legendary stadiums
Dynamo Stadium C-4/5, I-2,

M.Hrushevskoho
3, M Maidan
Nezalezhnosti,
tel. (+380) 44
279 02 09. After
passing through
the white columns
you’ll come to a
m onum en t h onouring the life of
Valeriy Lobanovskyi, Dynamo’s famous coach who died in May 2002. Lobanovskyi won
countless Soviet leagues and cups first as a player and
then as coach, not to his mention his team’s two European
Cup-Winners Cup triumphs and a string of Ukrainian titles.
It’s ironic that he can now only be seen sitting still on a
bench, because his habit was always to rock back and
forth between games. An even more poignant memorial
is located closer to the stadium and to the left: depicted in
stern granite are the four Dynamo players who were killed by
occupying Nazis during WWII. Contrary to Soviet myth and
many published materials, these players were not shot in
their uniforms immediately after defeating a German side
in a so-called ‘Death Match’. However, their team Start
(consisting of players from Dynamo and other Soviet clubs)
did defeat a team of German soldiers called Flakelf in August
1942 - in fact they did it twice in 72 hours by scores of 5-1
and 5-3. Only weeks later were N.Korotkykh, N.Trusevich,
A.Klimenko and I.Kuzmenko arrested. Korotkykh, a NKVD
(the precursor to the KGB) agent, was tortured and soon
died, while the other three were executed in Febraury 1943
at the Syrets death camp. Regardless, the less-romanticized
reality shouldn’t take away from the players’ heroism, embodied when they ignored orders and refused to give a Nazi
salute prior to their last game.

NSC Olimpiyskiy A-6, Velyka

Vasylkivska 55,
M Olimpiyska,
tel. (+380) 44
590 66 96, excursion@nscolimpiyskiy.com.
ua, w w w.nscolimpiyskiy.com.
ua. This is a multifunctional sport
arena which holds
sp or t, cul tural,
business, and many other events. It is the prime venue
in Ukraine and the 8th largest football stadium in the world
with a total capacity of 83,450. The stadium was founded
in 1923 and named after Lev Trotsky. During its almost 90
years history the stadium has been renamed 10 times.
The last reconstruction works lasted over 3 years and
gave the stadium its modern and incredible appearance.
The official opening took place on 11 October, 2011. In
June 2012 the Stadium hosted matches of the European
Football championship including the final game between
Spain and Italy on 1 July, 2012. Apart from sport events,
NSC Olimpiyskiy provides conference & banqueting facilities, catering, corporate & wedding photo shoot services.

Kyiv In Your Pocket

“Ravine of Women”, named so after the women who would
visit soldiers stationed at this former lonely outpost of the Kyiv
Russ. In 1943, 32,000 Jews were taken here by Nazi soldiers,
shot, and pushed by a bulldozer into the shallow ravine. The
number of people killed there equals approximately one-third
of the entire Jewish community of Kyiv today, and the park is
located within the city where the victims lived. The largest of
the two memorials at the site is actually in the wrong place.
After its construction, the sculptor built a small memorial where
the people had actually been shot. There are plans to create a
museum and larger monument at Baba Yar, funded by various
Jewish organisations from around the world.
Synagogue on Podyl D-1, Schekavyts’ka 19, M Kontraktova Poscha. This synagogue was built in 1895 despite
severe anti-Semitic oppression prevalent at the time. Local
architect Nicolay Gardenik designed the synagogue, which had
to be officially declared a private residence in order to avoid
problems with authorities. The decision to build was made by
the famous Kyiv patron of the arts Gabriel Jacob Rosenberg and
Rabbi Yevsey Zuckerman, and was built for the parishioners of
12 small Jewish meeting houses in Podil. In 1929 the building
was nationalised and given to a small producers union. The
structure survived World War II and reopened as a synagogue.
It remained the city’s only working synagogue until 2000.
Central Synagogue A-5, Shota Rustaveli 13, M Palats
Sportu. The Central Synagogue was built in 1898 by eminent
Kyiv philanthropist Lazar Brodsky. This striking architectural
monument served as a Jewish religious centre for nearly thirty
years until it was seized by the Soviet Union in 1926. For a short
time it hosted a handicraft club, after which it was turned into a
doll theatre. During the Nazi occupation, Germans used the synagogue as a stable for Wermacht horses. The building was returned
to the Jewish community after the fall of the Soviet Union. Despite
the serious damage that resulted from 70 years of neglect, the
hall was immediately opened to parishioners. Today a number
of Jewish educational, religious and cultural programs are held
here. The Museum of Jewish Heritage is also housed within, and
displays ancient books, candelabras, Menorahs and bas-reliefs.
Karaite Kenassa B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 7, M Zoloti Vorota.
This century-old building belongs to Kyiv Karaites, the Jewish
religious communion who lives according to the Old Testament
and not the Talmud. A prominent Kyiv architect, Horodetsky,
designed the building for Solomon Kohan, a tobacco magnate
and the head of the Karaite communion. It was opened in 1902.
Elio Zola, an Italian architect, fashioned the interiors with imitation
antique stone carving. He used the newest and most expensive
material available at the time, cement. The building had the latest
amenities: electricity, central heating and ventilation. During Soviet
times the building was partially destroyed and it lost its dome. Now
it serves as a House of Artists and hosts various cultural events.
Babyi Yar E-1, M Dorogozhychy. The darkest page in the
history of Kyiv’s Jewish community was written during World War II.
Nazi Germany invaded Ukraine in June of 1941 and occupied Kyiv
by September. On September 29, Nazi commanders ordered all
Jews to meet on Dehtyarivs’ka street. At the time, a train station
happened to be nearby and people naively assumed they were
being deported. Almost to a man, the city’s Jews obeyed the order,
and were systematically marched off to Babyi Yar, a deep ravine in
the woods. As the procession neared the edge of the city, naivety
turned to terror. Like livestock through slaughterhouse gates, the
crowd was funnelled between rows of armed German soldiers.
Stripped of their possessions and human dignity, men, women
and children were lined up against the edge of the ravine and
shot. Thirty-two thousand Jews were murdered in the massacre
of September 29-30. Altogether 100,000 people were executed
at Babyi Yar during the German occupation. The few survivors
were later star witnesses at the Nuremberg Trials. After the war
the ravine was filled with soil, and now Babyi Yar is a park with a
number of stirring monuments devoted to those who perished.

Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-3, Lavrska 9 , MArsenal’na,
tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra.kiev.ua. This
monastery made Kyiv the “Rome” of Orthodox Christianity
and continues to attract pilgrims from around the world. Its
territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an
underground cave system, but also some of Kyiv’s most
interesting museums.
First about the name: In Ukrainian ‘pechera’ means ‘cave’,
while ‘Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest monastery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy,
Lavra was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and
were buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere
enabled their bodies to mummify naturally. This “miracle”
further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’
bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day.
You can see for yourself by descending into the caves with
a candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those
monks so humble that they only allowed their feet to be
exposed. Women are required to wear scarves, which are
provided if you don’t have your own. English tours can be
arranged at the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside
the entrance.
Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal point
of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for icon
painting and the creation of mosaics served many Kyiv
churches, and a scriptorium oversaw the translation of
foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history
“The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the
historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial
site of Yuri Dolgorukiy (founder of Moscow) inside the Church
of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th century bell tower,
the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m.
Following years of Communist rule, the government has
recently returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church.
The monastery now operates as the Kyiv Theological
Seminary and Academy. There are also many museums
on the territory, the best of which are listed below. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults 50Hr, children 25Hr.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com

(Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96, www.
miku.org.ua. It is sure that the Louvre, the Hermitage,
or the Prado would be happpy to have such a collection of
Scythian gold as this museum. The gem of the collection is
the so-called Pectoral, Scythian queen’s neck adornment
from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4kg Pectoral was made of
pure gold by a master craftman of the time. Despite its very
old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second
most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the
Gaiman Barrow and kept in specially designed chamber filled
with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls
of this museum. The treasures of Kyiv Rus, West European and
Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian
jewelers of the past and present can all be found here. QOpen
10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 30Hr, children 15Hr.

280 18 34. The museum was created in 1923. Here we can
see the so-called ‘vertep’ (the Ukrainian puppet theatre of the
18th century), playbills and pictures of the plays of different
Ukrainian theatre troupes and the personal effects of famous
artists and musicians. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 15Hr, children and students 7Hr.
State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-3,
Lavrska 9 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280
36 93. The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely
represented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, clothing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special displays
devoted to the work of the famous artists Kateryna Bilokur
and Mariya Pryimachenko. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue. Admission 20Hr, children 3Hr, students 5Hr, retirees 7Hr.

Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing

J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44
280 22 10, bookmuseum-ua.livejournal.com. The museum is located in the space formerly occupied by the Lavra
typography, which was built in the 18th century. The collection
includes manuscript volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus,
the first Ukrainian printed editions of the Lviv ‘Apostle’ (1574)
by Ivan Fedorov (Ukraine’s first printer), the ‘Ostroh Bible’ as
well as fine examples of old Ukrainian book illustrations and
many other rare exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 15Hr, children and students 5Hr.

Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadristyi

J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44
280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of wonder is
presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. The
exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen
only under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally
unique and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi,
Honorary Master of Ukrainian Folk Art. His creative art
inspired the creation of a new world - “microminiature”.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Tue. Close every day from
13:30 - 14:30 for lunch. Admission 10Hr, children 6Hr.

Mall, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 17 17, www.
club300.com.ua. Chameleon is the only bowling club in
downtown Kyiv. It is located on the third floor of Ukraina Mall.
There are ten bowling lanes, a bar, and a restaurant in the
club. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour.
Jumbo O-4, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, MPetrivka, tel.
(+380) 44 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. This bowling club
is located on the fourth floor of the Plazma Shopping Centre, and
is the biggest in Kyiv; thirty Brunswick bowling lanes compensate
the distance from downtown. There is individual lane polishing
for professionals and ten bowling lanes with bumpers for beginners. Qualified instructors are also available. The fine for hitting
the screen hanging over the lane with the ball is 6000Hr. Bowl
carefully. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 78-216Hr per hour.
Machaon L-2, Luhova 12 (Karavan Shopping Mall),
MObolon’, tel. (+380) 44 206 43 33, www.club300.
com.ua. Like other bowling clubs, Machaon is situated in
a shopping mall and is a popular relaxation venue after lots
of shopping. The club has ten bowling lanes. Q 78-198Hr
per hour.
Ultramarin G-3, Uritskoho 1A, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380)
44 206 03 51/(+380) 44 206 03 53, www.ultramarine.
com.ua. The Ultramarine club was one of the first bowling
clubs in Ukraine. It has the fastest pin spotter in the city, 18
bowling lanes, three tables for Russian billiards, and two for
American billiards. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00.