:::: In draping, a dress form is used to manipulate flat fabric to fit body curves and create volume. Draping is better suited to visualise the relationship between cloth and figure. Working with the actual materials inspires and gives the designer better indication of the flow and performance of a specific fabric.

Flat pattern making uses a set of mathematical calculations based on the measurements of the body of a person or mannequin to create a set of basic blocks that through pattern manipulations techniques will be subsequently developed into many distinct “styles”. Though this method is referred to as flat or 2D it is not completely abstracted from the body. Flat pattern makers will work mainly in a 2D form on paper or in a digital environment and then cut the pattern and fit on the body of a fit model or a mannequin.

I personally love draping as I find fabric and its potential very inspiring but from a home sewing perspective understanding the fundamentals of flat pattern making is essential to achieving good fit and form. Every time we need to modify a commercial pattern we basically employ one or both of the two techniques that are often talked about in pattern making books and referred to as the “cut and spread” and “pivot” techniques. These two techniques are the means by which “styles” are developed from basic blocks or existing patterns. Their purpose is to aid in moving, increasing or decreasing pattern volume or moving, adding or removing seam lines with or without altering the pattern volume.

Before we talk more about these techniques we need to consider the seam allowance value in order to avoid pattern inaccuracies. Although most pattern making books and classes will recommend using seamless blocks there are some situations where it's easier to remove the seam allowance and some situations when changes are quicker to make without removing and adding the seam allowance. In home sewing many times we need to deal with patterns that already include a seam allowance and in some cases removing the seam allowance and adding it back afterwards is not practical. The key to avoid errors is to always know where the stitching lines are and double-check the measurements. You always need to mark the stitching line using a transparent ruler, a seam gauge or a double tracing wheel. ::Nel Moulage viene usato un manichino sartoriale per manipolare il tessuto, adattarlo alle curve del corpo e creare volume. La tecnica del Moulage è preferibile per visualizzare la relazione tra tessuto e forma. Lavorare con i materiali stessi inspira e offre al designer una idea più precisa su come una stoffa “cade” e si comporta.