OK bought a XR650R that sat for 2 years that has been motard, need stock links since he lowered her. He put a 102 mm kit in her and a hot cam stage 1 xr only exhaust with header, she has a slow jet of 70 and a main jet of 205. If I was to run down the road from 25 to 45 she acts like she is missing. No popping on decel and runs like a champ above 50. I know it has to do with throttle, is that in my needle adjustment.

OK bought a XR650R that sat for 2 years that has been motard, need stock links since he lowered her. He put a 102 mm kit in her and a hot cam stage 1 xr only exhaust with header, she has a slow jet of 70 and a main jet of 205. If I was to run down the road from 25 to 45 she acts like she is missing. No popping on decel and runs like a champ above 50. I know it has to do with throttle, is that in my needle adjustment.

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First thing I'd do is remove carb and clean thoroughly with aerosol carb cleaner (spray in all holes and jets and allow to drip off so dirt is carried away as you spray. Once that has been eliminated I would check float height and only then look at jetting.

Im trying to remove my piggies heart but mr.honda won't sell me the lock nut tools fir the swingarm and I'm unable to make them right now, if someone has some to loan out or sell please message me, i want to get it rebuilt asap i daily ride it.

Im trying to remove my piggies heart but mr.honda won't sell me the lock nut tools fir the swingarm and I'm unable to make them right now, if someone has some to loan out or sell please message me, i want to get it rebuilt asap i daily ride it.

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You dont need the tool to remove the swingarm, just to install it.

If you are careful you can tap the locking ring (outer) with a big screwdriver and knock it loose and use an impact to remove the other nut from what i recall.

There are a few members here who have the tools, and on Ebay you can buy them from a guy in the UK. I think they are $50. A local member was nice enough to let me borrow his.

I'm considering upgrading to an Acerbis 6.3 from a Clarke 4.3. Will there be any mounting issues if I'm using Unabiker Rad guards? Is it still possible to change the spark plug with the tank on? How hard is it to remove the tank when you're on the trail?

I'm considering upgrading to an Acerbis 6.3 from a Clarke 4.3. Will there be any mounting issues if I'm using Unabiker Rad guards? Is it still possible to change the spark plug with the tank on? How hard is it to remove the tank when you're on the trail?

thanks for any info,
Mike

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I can't comment on the radiator guards and fitment issue with the Acerbis since I don't run any guards with mine. Removing the tank isn't hard. Re-installing the tank (whether in the field or at home) is a chore. The upper bolts are hard to reach through the holes in the tank. It's best to used flanged head bolts and use a T-handle or socket extension with a wobbly head. I'll have to double check, but I'm pretty sure the tank will need to come off to remove the spark plug from the motor.

Im trying to remove my piggies heart but mr.honda won't sell me the lock nut tools fir the swingarm and I'm unable to make them right now, if someone has some to loan out or sell please message me, i want to get it rebuilt asap i daily ride it.

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Go to your local auto parts store and get a brake caliper tool. It looks like a cube with holes and various tits on all six sides. Two of the sides will engage the castle nut. It isn't the best, but it is only about $10.

I'm considering upgrading to an Acerbis 6.3 from a Clarke 4.3. Will there be any mounting issues if I'm using Unabiker Rad guards? Is it still possible to change the spark plug with the tank on? How hard is it to remove the tank when you're on the trail?

thanks for any info,
Mike

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Don't know about fitment but if you end up getting the acerbis and would like to sell the Clark I will buy it!

I can't comment on the radiator guards and fitment issue with the Acerbis since I don't run any guards with mine. Removing the tank isn't hard. Re-installing the tank (whether in the field or at home) is a chore. The upper bolts are hard to reach through the holes in the tank. It's best to used flanged head bolts and use a T-handle or socket extension with a wobbly head. I'll have to double check, but I'm pretty sure the tank will need to come off to remove the spark plug from the motor.

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Those upper bolts are a pain in the ass. Pretty much takes guessing work to line them up. I've now come accustomed to using a torch to check the holes.

I doubt you would be able to get the plug out with them on. Honestly, I have not even noticed that.

Be prepared that if you are fully fueled on the 6.6, that shes a REAL heavy pig. I did not think Id notice it, but it is really noticeable, but only when full. I run half full when im playing, or swap back to my Clarke 18l.

I'm considering upgrading to an Acerbis 6.3 from a Clarke 4.3. Will there be any mounting issues if I'm using Unabiker Rad guards? Is it still possible to change the spark plug with the tank on? How hard is it to remove the tank when you're on the trail?

thanks for any info,
Mike

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As someone who JUST did this last month, here is the routine.

There are mounting issues with the Unibikers. I was not able to get either of the 2 lower bolts to line up and go in. The brackets that Acerbis sells with the tank are utter shit. Throw them in the trash and buy one of the Tanker Braces that Hodaka sells. Not only does everything line up easy and well, it also has two other big pluses.

1) it is one piece and super sturdy. Installing the 2 piece brace that comes with it is a total pain.

2) the tanker brace is narrowed at the area it mounts to the frame, this allows you to easily use the factory bolt.

Now onto the fitment tips...

You will cuss, and get totally frustrated the first few times. It honestly gets easier and easier each time you do it. I'd say I've had mine on and off maybe 30 times over the last month doing odds and ends.

Run all wires UNDER the backbone or as close to it as possible. My tank seemed very narrow and I could not even get it close to where it wanted to fit until I relocated everything under the backbone.

I also found it to be a bit of a chore to get the 2 upper bolts in, the right side pretty much goes right in and its a straight shot. I install this one first to locate it. The upper left on the other hand (by the thermostat) seems to be a pain. For whatever reason, the hole is cut about a half inch too high, and you cant get a good straight shot on it with a normal extension. After that one is in i move back to the right side again and run that in, followed by the left. Then I go back and tighten them all up.

What are you insinuating? My bike only goes 110 and very rarely at that. Its not to pinched on the rim (think xrr is 3.75 and k60 is ment for 4 inch rim). Anyway, the tire has a VERY stiff bead/sidewall , again not sure what you mean butt you got my attention. Is that a newb jab or you know something? So far it works fine.