Wow! I got that over quickly – a cold shower. There have been several times when my travelling companions have reported only cold water, but I have always found someone to sort it out before I commit myself, but today there is no-one to sort it and so it just had to be done. At least I did it without making too much noise – the dutch woman who followed me was screaming like a baby.

I took a short stage today which involved lots of very straight tracks through cereal crops without many photo stops.

It is decision time for me. My favourite German guys walked on a stage further today. Olivier the French guy wants me to walk with him tomorrow, taking a short cut and cutting out a stage which means we will catch up with Tobi and Michael tomorrow (in Tábara). But that will probably mean losing Paul. I’m not sure about missing a stage, and I am not sure how important it should be who I walk with. Paul is very easy company but he has a preference for shorter stages so I will probably part from him somewhere along the line anyway. Olivier can be very annoying and loves to spend his time winding me up, but we do have a bit of a laugh when we can understand what we are saying to eachother (having to speak in Spanish, and his is no better than mine). Decisions, decisions! I shall have to make my mind up in the next few hours.

The Albergue here is quite pleasant (other than the cold shower) with 20 places. For the first time I think there are an even number of women to men. There is a dutch couple, a French-Canadian woman, two younger women (possibly another FC and I think a Dane). Paul, Olivier and spanish Pepe who is going home tomorrow because he has blister problems (haven’t we all?), and possibly a couple more who I haven’t yet seen (but who turn out to be the Italians I have seen over the last couple of days).

I had an interesting email from the lovely hospitalera at Salamanca this morning telling me that she had been looking at statistics for 2015 and thus far at her Albergue men outnumbered women 3 to 1. I also had a message from Ingrid, who follows the blog, saying that she will be working as hospitalera for two weeks at Zamora where I stayed last night. Voluntary hospitaleros receive a weekend of training and then are sent to an Albergue that suits their preferences for two weeks. Many pilgrims consider this a way to give back to the camino.

We have been told by the hospitalero here that there is a lot of water on the track tomorrow and we need to keep on the road to avoid wading thigh deep.

I have just arrived at the bar so that I can use the wifi to send this post (not so that I can have a drink – that is just something I have to do in order to keep my blog up to date!) There are thirteen men in here, mostly playing cards, and when I entered 26 eyes turned in my direction to appraise the stranger. I ordered a ‘tinto de verano’ – an easy drink of red wine topped up with lemonade. However the barman began with the lemonade which filled the half pint glass to one third, and then proceeded to top it up to the brim with red wine, ignoring my protestations to stop (maybe I didn’t protest loud enough). I hope you can appreciate the effort I go to each day to get this blog to you.

Oh, and by the way, today my viewing number tripped over 200,000. Thanks so much for sharing my journey and for all the very lovely comments I receive. I don’t get the time to answer them all but I certainly read every one with great pleasure.

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About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me

A lovely cheery post again – haha… I’m sure that we all appreciate the sacrifice you make in getting your postings to us. The compulsory alcoholic beverage in the bar set aside, I am always truly astounded how you can get up so early, walk ’til your feet are sore, then search for your bed for the night, take cold showers, search for food etc…etc…and then you sit down willingly and write to us….cheerfully…word perfect, and EVERY day! Yes, I am astounded, but SO pleased that you do! Buen Camino!

Maggie I agree with you cold showers are the pits. However strong Tinto de Verano can be just what the doctor ordered afterwards! Loved the photo of the storks, if you write a book you could put that on the front cover. You don’t sound as tired as you did last night I’m very pleased to see.
I was a bit concerned about you yesterday. Hope you make the right decision for you and buen camino

I love the bit about the strong tinto de verano – your dedication to the blog cause knows no bounds! Maybe you might go back one day as a voluntary hospitalera?? Decisions decisions – maybe you’ll go alone and meet some others??

I was introduced to your blog by Janice Tyler and I must say I really look forward to your daily posting, you make each day come alive with your writing and photos, thanks so much for sharing your experiences…

Hmm, Maggie… cold shower in Zamora or Montamarta?.. I remember being told that had a bit of a problem with the heater last fall, something that was fixed….ah well, I will find out soon enough. Maybe a cold shower in hot July will be welcome. What do you call a cerveca with lemonade… that is more my liking. Ultreia!

Keep it up my strong lady…loving reading your posts each morning and really appreciate all you have to do to keep us in the loop. The photos are great and really enjoy hearing about all the folks you’re running into along the trail. Best of luck with your decision; no wrong ones possible…