Thread: 8x20 enclosed trailer bottom all damaged- run a strip of diamond plate across it?

8x20 enclosed trailer bottom all damaged- run a strip of diamond plate across it?

8x20 enclosed trailer whole bottom is banged up and areas rusted away from fertilizer sitting in between the floor board and aluminum sheets. Other than the bottom rest of trailer still looks decent. Was thinking of running a strip of diamond plating about 2' high down both sides of trailer to match the front. Figure this would be cheaper than reskinning whole trailer and may give it a cool stand out look. Anyone ever do this and if so, what is the thickness of the typical diamond plating and any ideas where to purchase it? Also, any suggestions on installation to make this a nice looking improvement instead of a "look like i was trying to cover up stuff" fix. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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The smartest business man is not the one with the biggest business- its the one putting the most $ in his pocket.

I have done this on transport trailers and box trucks many times .The original aluminum skin,is pretty much paper thin ,so the lightest aluminum checker is all you really need ,unless your also trying to strengthen your trailer due to other issues.I always use either big aluminum rivets ,or stainless fasteners ,and I silicone the edges as well .Aluminum is hard to cut nicely at home ,you might ask the supplier to chop your sheets for you but it can be cut reasonably well with a good quality skillsaw and carbide blade .Depending on how your factory sides are installed ,it might be best to grind down or even off all of your factory rivets in the repair location ,but once again ,in some cases I have left them as is .

thank you for the reply. fortunately the sides are glued, not riveted, so I have a smooth surface to work with. and there is a trim piece that goes along the bottom so I can put the factory edge up and cut edge under the trim. I found this site online- just get the P4063? price seems decent- what do you think? any special type of silicone to use? and what is the best way to join the vertical seams where two pieces will meet? or maybe I can buy a 20' roll somewhere?

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The smartest business man is not the one with the biggest business- its the one putting the most $ in his pocket.

It really wouldnt matter much the type of silicone ,but I used to use clear silicone from curtiss [they sell fasteners etc] ,it had its own propellant so it was super easy to work with and was very good quality industrial stuff.The verticle joints can be just butted up real close and left as-is ,or you can find a small extruded trim you might like at a flooring store .Also ,if you dont mind a black joint ,a windshield place has that black "T" molding that would also work well enough .
I can get sheets up to 12 foot long at any metal supply place ,they might have to order in the 12 footers though .You may be able to order 20 footers from your supplier ,I never tried as I usually needed it yesterday ,and my customers were fine with a few joints .I dont know what prices you have been getting ,but I can get 1/8" checker 4x8 sheetsfor about $65.00 each ,but I am in Canada where we usually pay more for everything .
If you have any places around that build or customize trailers ,campers or heavy trucks,they are sometimes a good place to get checker plate as they buy it in bulk and will sometimes sell it cheap .