Hi. I'm new to the forum as my climbing interests have been sparked again. :) In the past I took an intro to climbing course where they taught how to put on a harness, tie in, belay, etc... It's been a few years, but I would like to start climbing again at some local gyms. I'm wondering what is in a standard belay test? My guess would be tieing in, setting up the belay device, safety checks and demonstrating proper belay techniques. Some things that have slipped my mind are the belay commands (I will google them though) and wonder if that would be part of the belay test at most gyms? Thanks for any info you can share about basic belay tests you've had at any gym.

It always amazes me that in the UK, depending on what gym you go to, you may be tested rigorously or you may not be tested at all. We were at a gym last night when a couple came. The guy obviously knew his stuff and went about teaching her how to belay on a regular tubular device. After 10 minutes he started to climb the wall and he didn't pick an easy climb where the likelihood of him falling off was well, unlikely! She was on her own and looking terrified. It was very obvious she wasn't going to catch him if he fell and at one point I got up and went and held the brake rope. When he came down I said, 'do you mind if I stand with her and guide her?' and he was cool about that but there was nobody running the gym and noticing dangers like this. I have been to gyms where people just climb up without rope or harnesses and nobody stops them and I have been to other gyms where they are so strict, even a very experienced belayer thinks they are going to fail!

Yes...belay skills are way more important than being able to pass a test. Testing is for gym purposes only, and it's to cover them for insurance reasons. The gym I tested at did a really good job, as far as I'm concerned. They expected top quality belaying and tested everything that I had been taught in a course I took.