Couple quick notes: It seems as though the powertrain loss for the manual is around 16% to possibly 17% while for the automatics, it is more in the 20% - 22% range. We have also noticed over time and through some testing that the V6s (more-so with headers it seems) tend to pick up false knock while on the dyno, thus pulling a few degrees more of timing versus what they are pulling under WOT on the street. If this is true, many of the results could possibly be making a bit more power than shown.

EDIT: Nov 16th
If you guys see your dyno number on the list and do not see a link next to your name then this mean that I do not have your actual dyno sheet or I can't find it. If you want to further verify your run then please pm me with the location of your dyno sheet.

When you post your dyno numbers try to post as much information as you can. The more information everyone see for your particular dyno run the better we can understand the result The standard information that should accompany with your dyno are as follows:

(Notes below originally written by member "bmorecam")

When we dyno our car there are 2 major component that most dyno use to calculate accurate result. They are the correction factor and temperature(weather station). There are over half of dozen corrections that can be used but here in USA we only use 2, the STD and SAE. Since there seem to be so much confusion surrounding this 2 calculations I will try to make this as simple as I can for you guys that want to know more about these very important factors that is part of every single dyno.

First, lets understand why these corrections was created in the first place. The correction standards were developed to discount the observed horsepower readings taken at different locations and weather conditions. It is obvious that an engine builder in Colorado could not produce as much horsepower as a shop at sea level. There is just less oxygen for the engine to burn at the higher altitude. What are less obvious are the other weather condition effects on the engine. So in order to compensate for this all advertised horsepower is "corrected" to several different industry standards.

SAE:
"SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), USA. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg of dry air and 77 F. This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque.

STD:
STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE(society of automotive engineers). Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg of dry air and 60 F. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard."

To sum everything up, both correction factors basically mimic a preset condition which was created by the society of automotive engineers. So... although the SAE correction factor is recognized today as the "standard" correction in the automotive industry, this does not mean reading a dyno number with STD cf is wrong. No matter which correction factor your dyno shop use, you should get an accurate comparison as long as you compare SAE vs SAE and STD vs STD. Never compare a dyno run with two different type of correction.

as long as it get stickied I will clean the house up really good Maybe we can set it up the same way how the v6 1/4 mile thread is setup. Everybody post, and I or whoever can take the job to edit everything and post in the 1st top post. Im not too crazy to be the one to take care of the dyno thread but I will do it if I have to.

Just need to combine this thread with one or two of the others...sticky it, and good to go...

Cept I do like the idea of the original post being able to be updated so that we can easily see numbers at a glance. Looking down through post after post takes time that most people just won't do. They will look at the first few and just assume those are the numbers...when in reality we are now getting bigger numbers than ever (thanks to the Vararam, new tune, and E85 tune)

Just need to combine this thread with one or two of the others...sticky it, and good to go...

Cept I do like the idea of the original post being able to be updated so that we can easily see numbers at a glance. Looking down through post after post takes time that most people just won't do. They will look at the first few and just assume those are the numbers...when in reality we are now getting bigger numbers than ever (thanks to the Vararam, new tune, and E85 tune)

Already thought of that and already started I will continue working on putting everyone's dyno together today.

If you never posted your dyno numbers in the older "post your dyno" threads than please do.. so I can make sure that I have your dyno numbers.