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41739012890 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 41739012890 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

The door catch broke and the door would not close.

First, I had to remove 2 screws to take off the 2 broken pieces of the door catch. Then I put the new one on using the same 2 screws. The door is now able to close, but does not lock properly. In order to make it work, I put a thin piece of rubber into the place where the door meets the machine. This causes the lock to engage and the machine to work. I don't know how much longer it will work since the repairman claims that the main bearing is going, but hopefully it will last a bit longer.

Part Select got the part to me in one day using the standard shipping, which was impressive. I just wish that I hadn't wasted money on calling a repairman only to have him tell me that he didn't have the part. He charged for the visit anyway even though I told him ahead of time the problem and the model of my machine.

1. Unplug unit.2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.3.Slide top back and remove.4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines2. Remove rear and top panels3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg 6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each10. Remove Spring boot from bellow11. Lower and remove entire shell12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)15. Separate the rear shell from front shell. 16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.

Both vibration shock absorbers broken

removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Door latch on front-loading washing machine cracked/broke

The part arrived in record time but, the hardest part of the job was removing the existing screws. Finally had to resort to pulling out the drill and using it with a screwdriver bit to power out the existing screws. Replacing the part itself was super easy. Plus, had to use the drill to even put back in the existing screws. Have to admit, if it ever breaks again (9 years old now) I am worried about getting those screws out/in without stripping something.

Door latch broke and I thought this is it, I'm going to have an expensive repair bill or have to get another washer. Then I had a brain fart, that maybe I could fix it myself. So, I went online, found Parts Select, easily fournd the part and got it two days later.

I removed the broken latch and kept the two screws and used them to install the new latch. I held my breath when I started the washer, but it ran just like it was supposed. Not bad for a 12year old washer and a 64 year old female owner. And kudos to Frigidaire for making such a good product. And parts select for making it easy to fix.

The door catch caused a loud buzzer or would not allow the washer to run.

We have not yet installed the part, as we epoxied the old part back together.However, the part provided was a perfect match, so as soon as it falls apart again we are installing this new part. Even if it is 2:00 a.m. and insomnia has me doing laundry, I am set! Thanks for the super fast delivery.

Inner support spring and vibration shock both broke - tub dropped down within the washer

Remove powerRemove water connectionsPull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken springRemoved broken spring, hung top of new one.Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tubFrom the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left

For both shocks:This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).

After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).

Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.

Reinstall motor control unit.

Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.

I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.

It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.

All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins.

Door catch broke into several pieces and wouldn't latch

First I removed the two screws holding the door latch in place. I removed the broken door latch, cleaned the surface behind it and reinstalled the replacement door latch with the same two screws I originally removed from the door. Before completing the process I also examined the door to the front loading washing machine and noted the hinge and screws were loose. I tightened the hinge screws and closed the door. It worked great!

The door catch broke. Front loading washer door wouldn't close.

It was easy to replace. Two screws hold in the part. I wrote down the model and serial number of the washing machine. I went on the website, and within a couple seconds I looked at the diagram and found the part that I needed. I paid for regular shipping and the part came very quickly. It was painless.

First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bolts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.

First of all the timer knob was very easy. My wife changed it in about two minutes. Simply spin the old off and the new on. Replacing the shell with the tub bearing is much more involved. Remove the rear cover, lower front panel and top. Remove belt from motor and then the motor itself. I used my cordless drill with a socket adapter and extensions to reach the screws. Disconnect the wiring and take the motor out of the machine. Disconnect the bellow type hose on bottom and small hose from the soap dispenser on top front shell. Support the drum on two 2 by 4's or 6's. Remove the top pins of the shock absorbers and lean back out of the way. The tub is now hanging on the top springs and is still held in place with the front boot. The boot needs to be seperated fron the washer with a single blade razor. This was the second time I did this repair so my boot came loose easily. With one person lifting the front and one in the rear lift the shell unit to remove the top springs. The bracket that keep the springs in place need to be removed prior to this.Slide the tub unit out the back of washer. I placed it front down by supporting it on 2 by 4's. Remove the large rear pulley. This was tough as moisture had rusted it together. Apply pressure evenly around the pulley with small bars as you tap the slightly loosen bolt that hold the pulley on. This should work the pulley free. Using my cordless drill I removed all the bolts holding the rear and front tubs together and reassembled following the reverse of this procedure. One problem I now have is that the shaft of the stainless steel tub is worn and I still have noise. Again, this is my second replacement of this bearing each about 4 years apart. I will not do the repair again as price of tub and rear shell are to expensive. I was very satisfied after my first repair and encourage you to try before purchasing new.

FIRST I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL HELD BY FOUR SCREWS AT REAR OF PANEL, PULLING THE PANEL FOWARD AND UP. THEN DISCONNECTED THE POWER AND WATER CONNECTIONS. THEN I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING THE FLOW VALVE TO THE WASHER REAR PANEL,PULLED THE VALVE FOWARD ,REMOVED THE TWO ELECTRIC CONNECTORS, PINCHED THE WATER CLAMP WITH PLIERS AND REMOVED THE WATER CONNECTION TO THE VALVE. THEN REPLACED WITH THE NEW VALVE FOLLOWED THE ABOVE STEPS IN REVERSE ORDER, FINISHING UP BY RE PLACING THE WATER CONNECTIONS AND POWER. THEN CHECKED FO PROPER REPLACENENT AND LEAKS BEFORE REPLACING TOP PANEL.