Cherche Midi Restaurant Review

: Restaurateur Keith McNally had a rare misfire with Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria, the Italian eatery once inhabiting this spot on the corner of Bowery and E. Houston Street. He seems to have rectified it by going Gallic, nor is he reinventing the wheel. The menu is traditional with some updated twists presented in a brasserie atmosphere that is bright and airy. For starters, select the frogs’ legs with green garlic velouté, garlic chips and crisp parsley or the buttery pan-roasted foie gras; the accompanying green apple cuts the concentrated richness of the duck liver and homemade brioche. Entrées such as a whole grilled daurade with crispy leeks and a filet mignon au poivre are impressively prepared without any unnecessary embellishments. The predominantly French wine list with some notable bottles from the U.S. pairs well with the food. Desserts are definitely worth considering and consist of French favorites like an apple tart Tatin.