These are my meandering musings on Climbing, Adventure, Esoterica, and Rocks of both types; solid and not

Friday, 7 October 2016

Brewing next Years Psyche 2016

So with a chapter closing in Mymbyr, I must admit to losing motivation, My drive had stalled, my get up and go had snuggled under the duvet....

Action was required. The Lleyn weekender reminded me of how much I enjoy getting stuck into projects. Getting up 53rd & 3rd, reminded me why I do these things in the first place; the ignition of adventure, like the crack of Indiana Jones' whip. It also reminded me how many silly projects I had littering the proverbial cutting room floor. I felt it was time to pick out the most ludicrous example, dust it off, and see if I could at least tilt at some windmills..

The Super Prow of Cwm Ffynnon!

Not only the very first giveaway, back in 2009, but also revisited as an Open Project in 2014.

Now this may have something to do with its location, or potential for you to fall 100m of a 7m highball, but it always bugged me that someone didn't get it done. My main issue was that to approach from pen y pass required a summers evening, and it still took an hour to walk in.

With all this bubbling, I spent some time with some maps and worked out that to walk in from roman camp, would only be 2k with 300m of ascent. Compared to the 4k and 500m of ascent I regularly took up to the Marchlyn project. Admittedly, tarmac is nicer then welsh bog and briar, but it just might work... A plan was hatched.

I packed a bag with some cleaning kit and a small rope and parked up in Free Conwy.

The walk in initially followed the beta approach for Running Jam (INSPRE Feb 16)

but instead of busting up ther hillside from the bend in the river, I pushed on into the cwm

Random boulder I spotted on the Satellite images, thought It would make a good waymarker. The Issue was that I hadn't been to the Super Prow for 2 years and never from this direction, and the hills were full of rocks...

More pretty rocks

I had an Idea which bit of hill side it was going to be in and pushed on up.

here we go (wrong)

is that it? (nope)

Finally!

The bad boy from below

I couldn't help myself, and although I am only really considering this an exercise in extreme top roping, I figured out that a patio was conceivable, and got started.

The cleaning rope in place, dangling nicely over the start of next years patio project.

A tad steep, I anchored the end of the abb string at the base and positioned myself in on a tied off italian hitch (not just a pretty face)

The righthand start all clean and chalked up

a good go at getting the lefthand start chalked..

It took me 1hour 40mins to find it this time, however with the patioing and everything I caught myself out and had only 55 mins to pick up the kids from school. As the resultant mad scramble only took me 40 mins to get back to the car, I'm hoping the approach time can be significantly improved on.

That's where it is!

(I hope this may jog my memory next time..)

Lets dream big and get some stuff done in 2017! (but don't cock up the school run!)