Ascent of Kebnekaise on 2005-07-07

Ascent Trip Report

We attended a so called summer alpine mountaineering class at the Kebnekaise Mountain Station. It was eight days with rock climbing, glacier travel, crevass rescue, crampon training, rope travel and more.

We stayed a few days at the Tarfala Mountain Hut and started there to climb the highest mountain in Sweden. We crossed the Tarfala creek and hiked up and across the Isfall glacier to the bottom of Hals pass. Climbed the very steep snow field to the saddle, using snow anchors to belays each other. Had to be very careful when we crossing the bergschrund in the lower part of the steep snow field. Continued south from the pass, rock climbing following a traditional route with fixed protection. Hiked up and across the snow field to just below the Northern summit. Followed the knife edge ridge to the Southern summit - the highest point in Sweden. Continued South across the summit plateau to the old top hut. Follow the Eastern route down the face to the ridge of Björling's glacier. Crossed the glacier to the pass to the Stor glacier at Nygren's route. Followed the Stor glacier back to the Tarfala creek and back to the Tarfala Mountain Hut. On one evening in the Hut, we went to the glacier research station and used their sauna. Great!