Looking for a thermostat housing for a 1978 chrysler 318. Used is fine and need it shipped to Maryland. Let me know if you have one lying around and the price including shipping. Thanks for your help.Mike

Jeff,Couple of questions...1. Did you pull the t-stat out at the end of the season? ... I do to add antifreeze after the engine(s) pull af from the salad bowl(s) and expell it from each exhaust AND then draining water from engines by pulling brass drain plugs on each side of engine***.*** no longer have to that after adding drain port. Hose and ball valve to outboard drain ports.2. Do you test t-stat for functionality at prescribed temp in pot of water?Added.... how long would you say a t-stat will remain viable? Seems it should last a few seasons as long as pot test shows it opening/closing at its rated temp.

It's "possible" that, if there's enough good cast iron left on the housing's body, you could take it to a welder who could braze on new steel nipples. Brazing's fairly strong and since that section of the water system is not under great pressure, such a repair should hold without issue.

I used to pull the t-stats at the end of the year, but found the motor still fills up with Pink Stuff with them in place--there's a t-stat by pass circuit hiding in there someplace.

I always drain as much water (and rust) out of the motor and exhaust before pumping the Pink Stuff in (about 3 gallons per motor). You don't want to dilute it to much or...

The t-stats MUST open readily when dropped into boiling water. We're talking 140/ 160 degree stats in 200 plus degree water! They must also close right back down with in a half minute when removed from the boiling water. That too is important.

Jeff

"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington