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Delta Quality?

10-24-2013, 06:05 PM

I have always preferred Delta faucets (still love their T/S valves), but noticed recently that the sheen on the two handle lav cartridge bonnet/retainer nuts didn't look quite right. cut it with hacksaw. no longer brass. Called Delta. Had to call three times to get them to admit that they were not brass. They admitted they are not brass. Very bad idea. have seen two non-brass bonnet nuts deteriorate, and flood house.

Was at supply house month or so ago. They said whole new line of Delta faucets for which they don't have parts and can't get parts. Not good.

I have always preferred Delta faucets (still love their T/S valves), but noticed recently that the sheen on the two handle lav cartridge bonnet/retainer nuts didn't look quite right. cut it with hacksaw. no longer brass. Called Delta. Had to call three times to get them to admit that they were not brass. They admitted they are not brass. Very bad idea. have seen two non-brass bonnet nuts deteriorate, and flood house.

Was at supply house month or so ago. They said whole new line of Delta faucets for which they don't have parts and can't get parts. Not good.

The other day I was installing a Delta lavatory faucet which i purchased at a plumbing supply shop. It had a metal pop up assembly. I needed to cut the 1-1/4" threaded tailpiece. You know the ones. My tubing cutter would not cut the tailpiece because it was made of stainless steel. What the heck is Delta thinking?

Time flies like an arrow.

Fruit flies like a banana.

Comment

I had to cut one too geno
Had a guy buy a delta shower faucet at big box store for me to install
Every thing about it from the valve body to the 3 adapter parts for the handle , was crap
I made him get a real delta at the hard ware store

Comment

i have begun to wonder if moen might be my new thing. kohler is weird because they use a lot more actual brass (handle, spout, ...) than others, but plenty of quirky things, one of which is that their ceramic lav cartridges seize in three or four years. noticed they switched to a plastic cartridge of late. hate the rite temp t/s.

But moen's rap, in my book, is the positemp loses hot pressure if not used regularly, and their pull out spray kitchen very quickly become hard to swivel. had one customer have me pull his back out after eight or nine months. their lav popups have a pivot rod that rusts out quickly. their roman tub cartridges are hard to replace: cartridge removal is tricky enough, but getting the new cartridge stabbed back in to the notches is very tricky. their old one handle kitchen handles were way too complex, with the black swivel thing breaking pretty easily. their metal t/s handles have to be routinely cut off with a hacksaw. their monticello handles are the springiest, worst handle design ever made; 30% of the time cannot remove the handle. their kitchen diverter valves are inferior to kohler and delta, in my experience--weak and intermittent.

just my .02

but Delta has decided to go downhill, and to wrongly deny three times that the new brass nuts are not brass, that is a big negative for me. i have a very hard time removing their cartridge retainer nut on the DST kitchen. the kitchen dst cheap plastic body flexes so much that the handle often no longer points straight out. i also have to pretty routinely cut off their metal t/s handles. Delta's t/s valves, however, are great.

Whatever. Don't really know who to switch to. seems to be becoming a disposable item.

Comment

I also have a problem with Delta, I use alot of the Delta Industrial Lav faucets at schools, well the handle screws are the 8 sided star, not 6 or 7 but 8. Delta don't even have a 8 sided star. I have not found one yet, not even an automotive parts house.
anyone else with this problem or can tell me where to get some 8 sided bits.

Comment

I think that those are called Scrulox pattern which is essentially at double square pattern as it was developed by Robertson screws.

Apparently 8 sided fasteners are used in trailers, and for trailers the Red Handel #2 Robertson screwdriver/bit is suggested in most trailer forums to remove them, as the proper bit is not to be found at a retailer unless you want to go to one of the tool vans like Snap-On or Mac and buy the set. The idea of the offset is for more torque and makes it quicker for the assembler to line up the bit to the top of the screw.

You probably need the smaller size Green #1 or yellow #0 Robertson screw driver for the handle screw. I doubt it would be the Orange #00 size.