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French Louie

Opening a restaurant in the Fort Greene/Boerum Hill area in the post–Barclays Center era has proved to be a bit of a feat; owners and chefs are tempted to overcompensate in an attempt to indulge, pulling out all the bells and whistles to match the energy of a performance by Miley or Katy. Essentially, pizzazz, but not much substance. Better to aim for classic Brooklyn style, and it’s possible that Doug Crowell and Ryan Angulo have created one with their follow up to Buttermilk Channel. The space is easily as impressive as the Carroll Gardens favorite right out of the gate: Warm and comforting, it opens with a handsome wood bar, continues with chocolate-leather banquettes throughout, and ends with expansive outdoor seating. Both of the restaurants serve New American fare, but French Louie puts an emphasis on blurring the lines between the French and American cuisines. Light and fluffy gougères find their place on the menu of starters, and soup en croûte, a “frenchie” salad, and snails marchand de vin round out the small plates menu. The snails, served with bacon over grits, are the easy winner. But the meats are the real stars of the menu: There are three options of steak frites, each served with a savory housemade steak sauce and perfectly seasoned French fries, and each cut is delectable, generous, and expertly seared. Though there are a handful of vegetarian options, stick to the meat-dish knockouts, especially the silky lamb neck and toothsome duck breast. The fun doesn’t stop there: The cocktail list runs the gamut from the classic (French 75) to sophisticated nouveau (the Saul Panzer includes aged rum, yellow chartreuse, and aperol) with not a single misstep.