This article presents the development of a conceptual model for configuration of supply chains/networks for small series textile and apparel production, in contexts such as the EU. This configurational approach is needed due to the significant mismatch between current industry structures and the demand for small series production. The model, consisting of four elements with resulting themes and groupings, was developed through a systematic approach of the literature on the related types of production. The themes highlight the complexities and interdependencies that must be considered by managers. The linkages between the elements, in line with 3DCE, need to be further addressed.

The purpose of this paper is to identify and prioritise the success factors and challenges related to competitive manufacturing (CM) capabilities in a high-cost environment, and identify their potential to support future reshoring in textile and clothing (T&C) supply chains, with judgements from the practitioners’ perspective.

Design/methodology/approach

A Delphi study method is adopted with industry practitioners from the region of Western Sweden. Following a literature review on reshoring to identify relevant factors related to CM capabilities, a multiple round Delphi is designed to rank the success factors and challenges, and to further evaluate the likelihood of the success factors to lead to future reshoring. Additional semi-structured interviews are conducted to provide deeper explanation.

Findings

Empirical insights are both conforming to, and deviant from, evidences from extant literature. Moderate agreement is seen among the practitioners on the success factors; time- and product/process-related ones being ranked the highest. Low consensus is reached for the challenges, however, those related to high costs and lack of local resources were key concerns. Some anomalies from previous conception emerge among the challenges regarding increased costs of production, inventory and product variety trade-offs, and low skillset presence.

Research limitations/implications

The paper contributes to reshoring research by identifying and prioritising value-driven success factors and cost-related challenges to CM in high-cost environments, for labour-intensive T&C industries. In connection, some interesting paradoxes originate when dealing with multiple success factors.

Practical implications

Valuable insights are generated for informed decision making related to CM and future choice of its location.

Originality/value

Along with the decisive knowledge of the reshoring success factors and challenges, the study offers an interesting T&C practitioners’ perspective.

This paper determines how operational capabilities influence reshoring decision-making based on proximity make-buy alternatives in apparel supply chains in high-cost locations. By drawing operational capabilities from reshoring literature, a hierarchical model is constructed and tested using fuzzy AHP in a workshop with industry and academia. The priority weights for 12 capabilities categorized into three criteria influences the four reshoring alternatives in the order: make-onshore, make-nearshore, buy-onshore, buy-nearshore. Sourcing/production capabilities were the most important criteria followed by value-added products/services. Relationship was least important but its underlining aspects: availability of skilled labor/know-how and flexible supplier relationship were necessary preconditions for reshoring.