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The rear panel is secured to the front case by eleven clips permanently attached to the rear panel. These clips lock onto small tabs machined into the front case.

To free the tabs, they must be pushed down and away from the iPod's case. Note the location of all tabs on the rear panel. When using an iPod opening tool to free the rear panel, be sure to work the tool at the location of these clips.

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Opening the iPod can be challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened.

Insert the large iPod opening tool into the seam between the front case and rear panel of the iPod, below the dock connector. Run the tool back and forth to create an opening. The tool's edge should point toward the rear panel to prevent any accidental scratching of the aluminum front case.

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The large iPod opening tool is no longer needed to gain access to the left side of the iPod.

Gently enlarge the existing gap by pressing/wiggling the small iPod opening tool into the gap near each of the two tabs attached to the rear case, pushing the clips toward the center of the iPod until both have been freed.

During the disassembly of the board I somehow "delaminated" the display. The result was that the display (after the battery was changed and the device closed again) looked "cloudy". From some angle you couldn't see anything at all anymore. The solution was to heat up the hole device with a hair dryer and rest it on it's front side for about an hour. After that it looked absolutely perfect again. I am not sure whether the heating is really necessary (maybe just lying the ipod on the front side over night would have the same effect) and surely one should be careful to not overheat the device.

Both ribbon cables were especially difficult to put back in. I can't say I succeeded in getting the nano to work again. If you can avoid detaching the cables, do it. If you're replacing the clickwheel, there's no way of avoiding it unfortunately.

A little tip if you are replacing the screen: Reconnect this ribbon cable from the new screen BEFORE affixing the screen to the adhesive! It will make it much easier. Also be sure that the little black things are UP before trying to put the ribbon in, and make sure you put them DOWN before closing up! The black things on the receptacle "lock" the cable in place, so it is important that you have it STRAIGHT or it wont work. Good luck!

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Getting the display ribbon back in place is the most difficult maneuver in the whole fix. I actually broke the black plastic tab in half while trying to close it back down, (be very gentle with it!). Managed to put the broken half back in(tweezers and patience) and get that ribbon in and put it back down. This battery replacement was the most difficult/tedious repair I have ever done. Don't do it unless you are brave and stubborn.

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Be careful when you are trying to remove a working display from the nano it came on (when replacing the faceplate as well). Because of the adhesive, too much force or pressure can cause the display to crack and cause the display to "bleed"... resulting in replacing that part if it was still good. Try using a hairdryer to gently warm the adhesive to then remove the display. Warning: Too much heat can also ruin the display or melt the front panel.

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keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers.

Join the cause and tell your state representative to support Right to Repair. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair!