Bargain roasting

Things to do with late-season tomatoes

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I recently hit the produce jackpot at my local
farmers’ market. So what if I didn’t know what I’d do
with an 18-pound box of tomatoes? I had just sleuthed a $10 bargain. It was
like hanging out at the markdown rack at TJ Maxx, breathless over a
two-piece bathing suit I’d never be caught dead in but must buy
because it’s only two bucks. Mother Nature is having her own kind of end-of-season
sale at the moment, with tomatoes leading the charge because they’re
usually the last summer crop to hang on until the first frost. Pleased with my purchase, I admired my newly acquired
juicy jewels, but reality quickly set in: I had 18 pounds of Roma tomatoes
in my possession and no time to play with them in the coming week. A full calendar meant no opportunity for gurgling
pots of pasta sauce, jars of salsa, or a canning extravaganza. The only
thing that made sense, given my time constraints, was to slow-roast
’em. The oblong Roma (a.k.a. plum tomato) has a higher
meat-to-juice ratio than, say, the average beefsteak tomato that’s so
good in a sandwich, which means that it’s a perfect candidate for an
oven-dried experience. More tomato pulp means less water to evaporate, and
after a long stint in a warm (not hot) oven that translates into Яber-intense
multilayered flavor. Best of all, slow-roasted tomatoes take little
brainpower; it’s hard to screw them up. Oil, salt, and season; line
’em up on a baking sheet; stick ’em in the oven; and carry on
with the rest of your life for the next four hours. You won’t believe the tomatoey transformation
that takes place while you’re napping or involved in some other form
of domestic bliss; those Romas do a Shrinky-Dink thing that deepens their
color and concentrates their tomatoness. The flavor is sweet yet sorta
smoky, but the experience, like a good wine, keeps going as the herb/spice
topping kicks in. For those worried about what to do with 30-some
slow-roasted tomatoes, these little jewels can be enjoyed solo, in between
sandwiches, thrown into an omelet, or purОed with a little stock for
a whole new pasta-sauce experience. Culinary questions? Contact Kim O’Donnel at
kim.odonnel@creativeloafing.com. Slow-Roasted Tomatoes 30 ripe Roma tomatoes — about two baking sheets’ worth At least 2 tablespoons olive oil (herb- flavored oil might be interesting) At least 1 teaspoon coarse salt Black pepper to taste Seasoning options: 1 to 2 teaspoons dried oregano, mint, lavender, fennel seed, summer savory, ground coriander, orange or lemon zest, herbes de Provence Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Slice tomatoes in half lengthwise. Pour oil into a
small bowl and, with a pastry or silicone brush, apply oil to the skin side
of the tomatoes. Line up the tomatoes snugly on a baking sheet,
oiled-skin side down. Measure out salt and seasonings and place in separate
bowls, then, with your fingers, sprinkle each over the tops, ensuring even
distribution. Place the tray in the oven and roast until the
tomatoes have shrunk by at least one-third or maybe half of their original
size, four to six hours. They will look a little crinkly but should retain
some juiciness. Remove the tray from oven and allow the tomatoes to
cool. Store tomatoes in an airtight container in the fridge; they will keep
for at least a week.