There is one way.. remove the steam knob and you will have enough clearance to take off the top. Grab onto it with a pair of pliers, use a rag to cover the knob so you won't tear it up.. and pull.. the pliers will slip off...pull again...slip off again, pull, etc etc until you get it pulled off. There's a little spring clip inside the knob that might fall out once you get the knob off, make sure not to lose it, it's the only thing that holds the knob on. It's a major PIA to get that knob off, that's why I did not mention it before.

Can i change the Evolution OPV to Classic OPV without changing the non-self-priming valve?Is there any side effect after changing the non-self- priming valve?Sorry for tat might be silly question.Pls replay me,Thk much.

Changing the Evolution OPV to Classic OPV has nothing to do with the self priming valve fix. Those two mods are seperate. HOWEVER, you need to use the tube that you got from the SPV for the overflow tube from the OPV to the reservoir.The only 'side effect' of doing the SPV fix is that you have to prime the boiler first before brewing. Put a cup under the steam wand, open the steam valve and turn the pump on till a stream of water comes out the wand (2 or 3 seconds will do). Turn the pump off, Close the steam valve and you're ready to brew.

The group valve fits a 12mm socket. I use a 3/8 ratchet wrench, but if it's really scaled up, you might need a breaker bar.A tip - put the four bolts holding the boiler to the frame back in when you try to get the group valve removed, it will provide the stability you'll need to put some real torque on the wrench to break the valve free.

The group valve fits a 12mm socket. I use a 3/8 ratchet wrench, but if it's really scaled up, you might need a breaker bar.A tip - put the four bolts holding the boiler to the frame back in when you try to get the group valve removed, it will provide the stability you'll need to put some real torque on the wrench to break the valve free.

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