This is a rather brief synopsis of what I did to swap a manual transmission into my Land Rover. Long story short, I got water into my ZF24HP somehow. Probably happened during this incident:

The suggestion is that it was sucked in through the trans oil pump labyrinth seal since the engine was running underwater for a while. Interestingly, after all the talk of the Old School Land Rover purists about the electronics in the modern trucks, my electronics were mostly fine. Well, the trans controller went underwater and spazzed out. So I removed it, and the trans defaults to a limp home mode and locks into 3rd gear. Between high range and low range, it was sufficient to get back to camp. At which point I opened the controller casing, cleaned it out, and blew it off with compressed air.

I reinstalled it, and it was perfectly fine thereafter. No electrical problems whatsoever. But I did have a good old fashioned mechanical issue. The clutches started to fall apart because of the water in the trans. I was left stranded on the way to a trail ride the next year. I had flushed the trans a lot to get the water out, but it was all for naught.

I decided that since the places I wheel are pretty much always going to result in water crossings, and this issue pretty much could happen again at any time, that I didn't want to spend money putting another auto trans back in. So, I went about planning how to swap in the European market manual transmission. Since this was a factory offering, it was as easy as sourcing all the right parts. I chose to get most of them new, instead of mucking around ordering parts from scrap yards overseas which was fraught with risk.

I ordered a new L-suffix R380 transmission from Ashcroft transmission, and the bellhousing to mate up to the Bosch 4.6L V8. The L-suffix is the last revision of the trans, and benefits from strength and shifting improvements over that used on the 1st gen Discovery available with the 5 speed in the US.

Had to make a clutch alignment tool.

Here's what I did with the vents. Y'd them to together. I installed a vent in the top of the bellhousing as well. I sealed up the cast-in weep hole in the bottom, and drilled and tapped it for a wading plug. Figured it might need a vent, so there you go. They are all routed to the intake box now with a bulkhead fitting.

Installed rivnuts in the trans tunnel, and the top plate bolts on from the top, instead of the bottom. Makes it easier to access the top of the transmission if needed for electrical and cable connections. Used SS button head screws, those aren't rivet heads you see on top.

Crank position sensor has to change. Can't see any difference other than the spacer depth??

Now, for the clutch pedal, that's an interesting story. One other guy has done this swap, and he got the pedal box with all 3 pedals from a 1st Gen Discovery. The box almost fits perfect, but not quite. But he was also building a real bastard truck. It was a D2 body, with an early D1 trans, and a late D1 engine, updated to D2 spec... He did all this in one go, and he also gutted all the ABS/TC from the brake system. So, he swapped the pedal box when the engine bay was empty. Easy peasy. I had the small problem of an engine, and ABS plumbing in the way.

Looking at my own pedal box, I saw that the shaft for the clutch/brake pedals was full width, and had the bracket for the clutch pedal... they just don't hang a clutch pedal on it for the auto trucks. I decided it was easier to take the clutch pedal off a D1 pedal box, and hang it on the existing shaft in my D2 pedal box. Drilled holes for the master cylinder mounting, Bob's your uncle. The D1 and D2 are so similar in many ways, that many parts swap over with little change.

Installed factory NVH damper pad.

Modified the original center console with some platic and laid a new OEM rubber pad on top, OEM boot, custom knob. It all went together like it's original, because it really is.

BCU has been reprogrammed, but I have not figured out how to reprogram the ECU yet, so I'm getting a persisten CEL. P0600 lost communications with transmission controller. I need to sort that. I may need to find a 5 speed specific ECU.

My other option is to plug the transmission controller back in. Then I get a range selector fault, and a pressure fault. The range selector could be fixed by feeding power to it. The supply was turned off when I reprogrammed the BCU. The pressure control, I wonder if I could fake the signal with a resistor. The trans thinks it's in park because of the wire splice, so it doens't throw too many faults because it's not trying to do anything.

At first I was running around with the controller plugged in, didn't reprogram anything. All I had to do was connect two wires to make the range selector think it was in Park, and ground out another wire for the seperate Park/Neutral sensor. That second one caused me some grief as I wasn't aware of it. With the key on, the truck thought it was in Park, but it wouldn't crank. Took me about an hour of looking at the Shop Manual to figure it out. Once I made the second change, it started and ran. I was getting a CEL for trans pressure. Also the transmission fault lights were flashing, so I took the gauge cluster apart and put black tape over the LED's.

Now, I have the 4 Amigos (ABS System Faults) already because of some other problem, so I can't really say if that system would have worked or not. The manual says that the ECU is programmed as an auto, and it tells the ABS Computer it's an auto once per data cycle. I think 39 bits are sent repeatedly, and one of them is for the trans. The ABS uses this to calculate what gear the box is in, for judgement of the hill descent speed, and I'm not sure what else. So obviously this part might be screwed up. Also, the cruise control was not working. The Body Control Unit was not letting the CC engage because it thought it was in park.

I used an Autologic to reprogram the BCU to manual trans. 2 places it needs to be done, one for the body, one for the gauges. Now the little "P" next to the odometer readout is gone. Apparently it also shut off the feed to the Transmission Range Selector switch, because then I was getting a code for a Range Selector Sensor failure.

I also turned off 4 Amigos and went for a drive. I thought it was a bad ground based on a previous reading and that is what one guy suggested based on the codes. So I had cleaned those grounds, and now turned of the Amigos. The ABS worked, and the TC worked, that much I know. How well, not sure... but two wheels on pavement and two on gravel, I could dump the clutch to spin the gravel side, and the TC activated. Ditto ABS activation with one side on gravel. Cruise Control was now working also.

I wanted to reprogram the ECU to manual trans also. Using the Autologic, I went into the ECU system to reprogram. It quieried for the ECU part number, 1 of 4 numbers. We matched it up with what I had. It asked for 4.0 or 4.6, entered 4.6, then it asked emissions homologation, 1 of 4 choices, we guessed at the highest one. Then it prompted "Ready to start flashing, are you sure?" Given it hadn't asked us the transmission type, I didn't think this was going to help, and there's a chance we'd brick the ECU, so I stopped. I had a talk with Colin at BlackBoxSolutions a while back, and from that, I think I may need to actually buy a manual transmission ECU. I think that's what the part numbers were for. No idea what would happen if you tried to dump the manual trans part number software into an auto ECU. Probably a good chance of bricking it.

I decided to disconnect the trans controller to see if that would get rid of the Range Selector code, which it did. But now I'm getting P0600, trans communications failure, no surprise.

3-4 days later, the Amigos were back. I never got to try it off-road, I was on my way to a trail when it went off again.

At this point, it's all working, except for a persistent CEL, and 4 Amigos which is probably unrelated to the trans swap. I'm not sure yet. When I read the codes again, maybe it will give me the "gear ratio implausible" thing, who knows? But I think I may have a shuttle valve failure.

Now, as luck would have it, I have a rear main seal leak. I thought about changing it while I was in there, but trying to avoid ship fitter's disease. What do you know. I tried to bandaid it by cleaning the PCV and adding a seal sweller to the oil. No luck. Bastard. So it's all gotta come back out. At least I know it'll go fast because all the bolts are unseized, I know what I'm doing, and I can access the top of the trans from inside because of how I mounted that plate.

This is an OUTSTANDING thread. I can't believe no one has commented on it in the 3.5 years it's been up.

I'm looking into doing this conversion for my '01 for a variety of reasons. I'd love to be able to ask some questions, and to hear about how your conversion has performed in the years since you did it.

I do have some questions--did the fuel economy change?

Did you change out the differential gearing, and/or the transfer box gearing? Some sources say that the factory specified different settings for manual versus auto gearbox.

Thanks in advance!! Hope you're still connected to this forum somehow & get the message.
Cheers.

This is a rather brief synopsis of what I did to swap a manual transmission into my Land Rover. Long story short, I got water into my ZF24HP somehow. Probably happened during this incident:

The suggestion is that it was sucked in through the trans oil pump labyrinth seal since the engine was running underwater for a while. Interestingly, after all the talk of the Old School Land Rover purists about the electronics in the modern trucks, my electronics were mostly fine. Well, the trans controller went underwater and spazzed out. So I removed it, and the trans defaults to a limp home mode and locks into 3rd gear. Between high range and low range, it was sufficient to get back to camp. At which point I opened the controller casing, cleaned it out, and blew it off with compressed air.

I reinstalled it, and it was perfectly fine thereafter. No electrical problems whatsoever. But I did have a good old fashioned mechanical issue. The clutches started to fall apart because of the water in the trans. I was left stranded on the way to a trail ride the next year. I had flushed the trans a lot to get the water out, but it was all for naught.

I decided that since the places I wheel are pretty much always going to result in water crossings, and this issue pretty much could happen again at any time, that I didn't want to spend money putting another auto trans back in. So, I went about planning how to swap in the European market manual transmission. Since this was a factory offering, it was as easy as sourcing all the right parts. I chose to get most of them new, instead of mucking around ordering parts from scrap yards overseas which was fraught with risk.

I ordered a new L-suffix R380 transmission from Ashcroft transmission, and the bellhousing to mate up to the Bosch 4.6L V8. The L-suffix is the last revision of the trans, and benefits from strength and shifting improvements over that used on the 1st gen Discovery available with the 5 speed in the US.

Had to make a clutch alignment tool.

Here's what I did with the vents. Y'd them to together. I installed a vent in the top of the bellhousing as well. I sealed up the cast-in weep hole in the bottom, and drilled and tapped it for a wading plug. Figured it might need a vent, so there you go. They are all routed to the intake box now with a bulkhead fitting.

Installed rivnuts in the trans tunnel, and the top plate bolts on from the top, instead of the bottom. Makes it easier to access the top of the transmission if needed for electrical and cable connections. Used SS button head screws, those aren't rivet heads you see on top.

I have a 2000 Discovery 2. I found an R 3080 and transfer case combo from a Discovery 1. I just need to find a bell housing to fit the Bosch 4.0/4.6 engine. Your thread provided alot of information.