I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Voeg opmerking toe

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

Voeg opmerking toe

The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

Voeg opmerking toe

Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

Voeg opmerking toe

During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Voeg opmerking toe

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

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Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

Voeg opmerking toe

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

Voeg opmerking toe

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Voeg opmerking toe

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

when reassembling, getting bracket back on can be tough. There is a tiny tab which is on the top left of the braket in the picture that can become easily bent. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the bracket so that it can slide into a small hole to the left of the camera opening, which is used to secure the top left of the bracket to the phone.

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

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Use the point of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor and proximity sensor out of their recess in the display assembly.

There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

If replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

The bracket for the proximity sensor is critical. some more detailed pictures and guidance would be helpful here. After attempting to replace the screen with a new screen that did not come with the proximity sensor, buying a new proximity sensor bracket, etc. I finally gave up and bought another screen that included the front-facing camera and proximity sensor pre-installed.

also, make sure you get the tiny rubber gasket that the prox sensor fits into snugly against the display. when i popped the sensor off, the gasket stayed behind, and i couldn't get the sensor to fit properly in the new display. i checked the old one again and saw the little rubber gasket that contours to the front camera lens opening on the display assembly. pulled it off with tweezers, and used it to get the prox sensor properly seated on the new display. i wish i'd taken a picture of it, but, well, my phone was in pieces in front of me.

I recently replaced a broken screen. The screen had shattered in the earphone area, and since the phone was new to me I didn't know about the camera clip and proximity sensor holder. These parts are just a few dollars online. I believe they are essential. My front camera has visible drift and the proximity sensor doesn't work.

I also had to remove the tiny black rubber gasket and move it to the new display. This was not easy. I also had lots of trouble getting the proximity sensor back in place during reassembly. I seemed to have another connector near the camera that had to be reconnected, but isn’t mentioned in this guide. More pictures on a white phone might make it easier to see all the tiny parts in this area.

Voeg opmerking toe

When reassembling, I found an unknown, small black plastic piece on my work surface. It wasn't anything that I'd removed in any step. It had a curved section and a small tab, the whole thing was less that 1/4". Nothing in any of the instructions mentions it.

I finally figured out it was supposed to go just to the right (while looking at the open back of the screen unit) of the hole where the camera fits. The semi circle hugs the side of the camera when you reinstall.

This had me going nuts for about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info can help you avoid that.

I gotta say, reassembling this assembly it very fiddly and painstaking. There are lots of little parts that need to fit into other little parts while engaging yet other little parts. Seriously, and exploded diagram of all these little parts would be helpful! I took my time, used a very bright light and a magnifying hood while disassembling and reassembling and it really helped.

The small black piece is part of the front facing camera housing, can I also point out to make sure that you remove the clear plastic camera lens housing from the old screen too, and make sure that this and the small rubber housing are placed onto the new screen as these are what hold the lens, the microphone and the ambient light in place. There maybe a small amount of glue around the lens housing which needs to be removed with a sharp blade, please take care when doing this.

I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

The copper sticker is some kind of ground connection, and is therefore probably very important given the frequencies present inside the phone, and that the phone is itself a radio transmitter and receiver. I too followed the instructions and removed it but I was super careful and didn't tear it, and was able to reattach it. I used the spudger to smooth it and ensure that it makes good contact with the shield. It didn't even occur to me to skip the removal step! But I agree with that advice.

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

I also ripped the copper cable. However when I booted the repaired phone without it, it wouldn’t boot. It was stuck in a loop. To fix this and it worked for me, hold the home button and power button until the phone display turns on again

I was told that the additional flap (T-looking piece with 4 holes) is used only in manufacturing the assembly (used to line up the pieces to weld), and that it could be trimmed off, or folded out of the way... which I did with a fully successful cable replacement.

Team

20 Opmerkingen

I'm confused as to what you attach the top part in the last picture, the part with yellow or orange on it? Does that connect to the grounding sticker portion? And how is that removed originally, just by pulling it off?

I have to second Machek Kozoil's question. What do you do with the yellow contacts? I can get the proximity sensor to work but not the camera. I assume it has to do with these yellow contacts. Any ideas? If anyone knows I will make a youtube video explaining this for others as I haven'y found one yet. In the link below I have included a picture of the factory part on top and replacement part on bottom.

As someone has suggested, it is probably a part used in manufacturing process. The original part doesn't have it, and it seems to be cut off. And that is exactly what I did, and everything works. There is nowhere to attach it anyway so instead of folding it and trying to fit it in, you might as well just cut it off.

This is not a good guide. iFixit have been very lazy on the final, critical points regarding the EMI shielding. Without correct shielding the screen will wobble or the camera/proximity sensors will fail.

To clean the camera (not replace), you only need to go up to Step 17. Just remove the bracket over the camera (two screws), then gently bend the camera out of it's socket, and clean the glass and the lens.

Total time for me 1:01:54 (start - finish)

Hardest Steps:

1. Opening the device

2. Reassembly with small connectors. Also ended up with some dust on the LCD.

As for the two "tabs" at the bottom of the flex cable, I'd have to say that those are alignment tabs used during manufacturing and assembly. Looking at an OEM cable from a screen assembly, it looks like those were cut off prior to installation. The copper tape is a combination ground and heat sink for the front facing camera and should be transferred over to the new assembly. Give it a little heat to loosen the adhesive and it should easily detach from the back of the camera and the LCD shield

"To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order." Maddening. That is not helpful. I sat for hours over two days staring at the front camera assembly trying to figure out how in the world it goes onto the back of the screen properly. Taking something like that off is NOTHING like putting it back on: there are parts that need to be bent around, parts that go in certain holes, little pieces that aid in alignment that need to be placed just so and on and on it goes. Ifixit, you really fell down on the job here.

Now, let me set the record straight, if I can, for I searched and searched for answers to how to get that darned front-camera piece back in correctly and not one YouTube video or pictorial instructional says anything more than "reverse instructions." Next I'll give instructions on what to do:

Here's what you do--and I found a magnifying glass essential for all of this: First thing is you need to make sure you have three little pieces that are essential for the realignment of everything: two hard-plastic pieces (a circular one and a rectangular one) that will hold the camera and the proximity sensor respectively, and a soft-rubber piece that goes over some kind of sensor at the end of the proximity sensor cable. The plastic camera holder will be kind of loose in its slot until the end, so don't worry about that. Each piece can only go on one way that will enable the assembly to fit together the correctly.

First put the camera holder over the lens so it fits into two slots. Take note of its position in relation to the spot it will occupy in the camera window and place it in that spot. Second, put the plastic rectangular piece over the proximity sensor so it fits. PS: the lens-holder is loose, but the square piece will stick and stay over the sensor--in the correct orientation.

--By the way, I thought the little reflective piece on the end of the sensor cable was what fit into the window to the right and below the camera window--it's not. What goes in there is a protruding rectangular section on the cable that has no reflective surfaces. The reflective part at the end actually ends up fitting next to the camera.--

Third, take the rubber piece off of the end of your sensor cable on your old camera assembly, and place it over the square reflective part at the end of the sensor cable on your new camera. If you look at the end of the sensor cable through a magnifying glass you'll see that next to the reflective piece are two little bumps that stick out. The rubber piece has a rectangular window that fits over the reflective piece, and a rubber "bar" that extends out over the two bumps--that's the orientation of the rubber piece. It should stay once pushed on with a fingertip.

Fourth, observe that the mic cable will bend back on itself and the circular mic will fit into a hole in a rubber piece that is already connected to the back of the lcd (right under the camera window).

Now that you know where everything goes, fit the mic into its hole then bend the whole assembly over on itself so the camera is lined up with its window. Then bend the sensor cable back under and--this is key--fit the end of the cable with the rubber piece right up next to the right of the camera holder. It is very tricky getting everything to stay where it's supposed to. Also you should have put the tape on the new camera assembly and should be ready to stick it to the back of the lcd (that tape only goes on one way, too, but that's too much to go into now--figure it out!). Do everything at once (bend back cables, orient pieces, line up stuff, stick down tape) and viola!, you're ready to add on the ear speaker . . .

I had to replace this part on my 5S because the proximity sensor wasn't working; camera and light sensor were working fine

I ordered like 7 of these on ebay and I think none of them were fully working; on five of them the light sensor wasn't working (even after a hard reset the auto brightness switch wasn't available), one even prevented the phone from booting (google for red screen on boot); the only one on which the light sensor was indeed working, had a bad camera (image was blurred) and this was the only one that had a soft spongy adhesive on the rear of the connector like the original

I start to think that the ones on ebay (price from 3 to 8 £) haven't passed some kind of quality control and might fix one issue but give you another one for sure (that most people won't realize)

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

That one you sheared off is the electrical grounding for the front camera assembly. I have sheared it once as well. However the phone was working, only the front-facing camera didn't. I assume that the other parts around it which use the grounding from the same cable didn't work either. My solution was to buy and fit a new front camera assembly.

On my phone, when I replaced the screen none of the proximity cable devices worked. I thought maybe I'd screwed up the installation so I temporarily put a screen on which came with all the small items already installed. Same thing. Is it likely that I somehow damaged the connector on the iPhone motherboard itself!?