Imperial Sand Dunes, California: Spinning wheels gotta go ‘round

Making friends with some Kuwaitis on some serious off-roading

San Diego State students push one of their vehicles after it got stuck in the sand in Glamis, a popular section of the Imperial Dunes in southeastern California. Hundreds of thousands of off road vehicle enthusiasts and hikers populate the recreational areas of the Imperial Dunes, which runs from late October until April.

By:Josh MorganSpecial to the Star, Published on Fri May 02 2014

When I set out for a trip to the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area, I hardly thought I would find myself with a group of Kuwaitis in the back seat of a Lexus LX470 as it slipped and slid across the sandy terrain. As the sand became thicker, I knew it was inevitable we’d get stuck in the largest stretch of sand dunes in California.

“We don’t really know what we’re doing,” Majed Qliner said while laughing with his friends. “If we get stuck out here, we would need a, how do you say, helicopter to come and rescue us.”

Through the passenger window, I occasionally saw off-roaders with more capable dune buggies, ATVs and dirt bikes, carving in and out of the dunes that can reach upward of 300 feet. These dunes attract hundreds of thousands of off-highway vehicle, or OHV, aficionados annually during the peak riding season, from late October to April.

Riders will soon have another reason to visit, as 40,000 acres of the dunes formerly restricted to OHVs will open to vehicles. This increased access follows a U.S. federal court judge’s recent decision overruling the objections of environmentalists who argued for the protection of an endangered plant in the area.

The Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area is part of the Algodones Dunes in the southeastern corner of California near the Arizona border. Formed from the windswept sands of ancient Lake Cahuilla, the dunes stretch for more than 40 miles into Mexico and are, on average, about 5 to 8 miles wide.

Entry into the recreation area requires a permit from Oct. 1 to Apr. 15, although many day visitors I came across didn’t have one. Seven-day permits cost $50 at an on-site ranger station, but they can be found for $35 at a number of off-site locations in Yuma, Ariz., and El Centro, and at businesses in the small towns surrounding Glamis. You can also order permits at imperialsanddunes.net. Season permits cost $150.

OHV rentals are available in Yuma, El Centro and even in the campgrounds in Glamis. Prices start at around $25 hourly for a small ATV and can cost upward of $80 an hour for a four-seater dune buggy. Day rates are also available for those planning on camping out at the dunes. Rentals are pretty easy to find now, as the peak season comes to an end, but if you want to make a trip late in the year, when it’s cooler (summer highs can reach over 110 degrees), it’s best to make a reservation.

If you don’t own a vehicle capable of towing OHVs, some rental operations offer drop-off and pick-up services.

If flying over sand dunes in an OHV isn’t your cup of tea, the entirety of the Algodones Dunes system is open to hikers and horses. The best area for this is north of CA 78 in the North Algodones Dunes Wilderness. There you can find the tallest dunes, and, as OHVs are restricted from entering, an abundance of unusual plants and wildlife.

I spent most of my time at the dunes on foot, and it was exhausting. As the fine sand sank beneath my feet, it felt like I moved a step backward for every attempt to go forward.

It’s easy to feel small when you stare out at the vast landscape. When I worked my way up my first dune, I stood in awe as particles of sand glistened in the sunlight, the wind blowing them off the edges of the dunes.

The wind carried on through most of the night, pushing sand through the mesh vents of my two-man tent. By the time I awoke in the morning, every footstep and OHV trail that existed the previous day had all but vanished. A year from now, thanks to this constant movement of sand, the entire dune system will have shifted farther east by about a foot, according to the agency that administers the recreation area, the U.S. Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Land Management.

Thoughts turned to that wind while I sat in the Lexus, as my new Kuwaiti friends stuck their hands deep in the sand to dig out the wheels of their massive SUV. How would we get back to camp if we couldn’t retrace our path back to the campsite? To the others in the group, it seemed of little concern as they tried to push the vehicle out of the dune, sand stinging their eyes as the tires inevitably dug themselves deeper.

Eventually, a larger group of friends we were supposed to meet descended from a nearby dune to help dislodge the Lexus, and a VW Touareg that was just as stuck. The group, now totalling about 30, managed to get the vehicles free just as the sun set beyond the dunes.

We made our way to an area on the other side of a nearby dune, where they had a few small rugs spread out across the sand and a small fire burning. One member of the contingent, Saad Alajran, took out a set of pots and began preparing chai tea and coffee. Although he now lives in San Diego, this was his first trip to Glamis. But he told me, when he lived in Kuwait, he and his friends would make weekend trips to dunes in Saudi Arabia.

“It is nice, because it reminds me of home,” Alajran said over a cup of tea. “I think I would like to come here again.”

The rest of the evening, we exchanged stories, sang songs and Alajran made sure my cup of chai was never empty. At one point, most of the group pulled away from the campfire to pray under the moonlight. By that time, any stress I had was gone and I was grateful to be a part of their first experience in a place that reminded them of home.

The beauty of the dunes is that there is a variety of experiences to be had while you’re there. And just like the harsh, desert landscape, those experiences can be unpredictable, dangerous or, in my case, incredibly rewarding. You can spend the day with hundreds of thousands of OHVs, or you can sprawl out on a dune at night and stargaze in isolation.

To experience the Imperial Sand Dunes, you don’t need a tricked-out dune buggy to have a great time, but it probably wouldn’t hurt if you did.

For a map, brochure and more information, visit the U.S. Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Land Management site at blm.gov and search for Imperial Sand Dunes.

The Orange County Register

Just the Facts

There are plenty of things to see:

North Algodones Dunes Wilderness: This protected wilderness area has the largest dunes, with a variety of plant and wildlife. OHVs are restricted from entering the area, but it’s open to hikers and horses. There’s also a wildlife site with vehicle parking off Niland-Glamis Road.

Osborne Overlook: Popular with day visitors, the overlook offers scenic views of the dunes in Glamis. They are easily accessible from the parking lot for short hiking sessions.

Tumco: This mining ghost town is off Ogilby Road, 25 miles northwest of Yuma. There are trails leading up to the crumbling foundations of buildings. It’s closed to camping and vehicle travel.

Plank Road: A 1,500-foot stretch of decaying wooden planks is all that remains of the first attempt to lay a road across the Imperial Sand Dunes, in 1916.

Glamis Beach Store: If your OHV is in need of repair after a long day of riding in Glamis, this is basically your only option. The store, at 5775 E. U.S. 78 in Brawley, offers parts and other supplies. Be prepared to pay a premium for pretty much everything in the store, because it’s the only one for miles.

U.S.-Mexico border fence: If you’re driving past Buttercup Valley on I-8, you can catch a glimpse of the towering border fence. It’s about a mile south of the Buttercup campgrounds and can be easily accessed by OHV. Legally, you can go right up to the fence, but don’t be surprised if Border Patrol agents on ATVs question you as you get close.

There are a number of places to stay in the area:

Glamis Dunes: The most popular section of the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area also provides the most open camping space for those looking for an OHV getaway. Campsites on Gecko Road just off CA 78 provide an abundance of on-site restrooms and typically will have vendors selling supplies, gasoline and spare OHV parts. Expect to pay a pretty hefty fee for those goods.

Buttercup Valley: These dunes are in the southernmost section of the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area and run right up to the U.S.-Mexico border. There are a number of riding areas here including Buttercup, Grays Well and Gordons Well.

Yuma: For those who don’t own an RV, or, if camping out in the desert doesn’t sound appealing, Yuma is only a 20-minute drive from Buttercup and Gordons Well. The great thing about Yuma is that gas, food and lodging are typically cheaper than you would pay in California. I stayed at a Howard Johnson in Yuma the first night of my trip and paid $80 for the evening. You can easily find cheaper lodging if you’re on a budget, or splurge for something more luxurious. Even if you don’t end up staying the night, I recommend stocking up on gas here. You can easily save $1 per gallon compared to filling up in the California towns surrounding the dunes.

El Centro: The largest city in Imperial County, El Centro is pretty close to the southern section of the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area. The selection of hotels and motels is much more limited than in Yuma don’t expect to find luxury accommodations.

Quechan Casino: The casino-resort (at 525 Algodones Road, in Winterhaven), is on I-8 between Yuma and the southern section of the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area. It’s there if you want to get in a game of poker during your trip to the desert. Rooms start at around $85 per night. Info: playqcr.com

If You Go

Pack a scarf for your face!

You’ll need to protect your face as the sand whips around

More on thestar.com

We value respectful and thoughtful discussion. Readers are encouraged to flag comments that fail to meet the standards outlined in our
Community Code of Conduct.
For further information, including our legal guidelines, please see our full website
Terms and Conditions.