Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

This is the first route protected entirely with glue in's in Little Cottonwood Canyon. This route is also at the top of the gulley to the west of Lizard Head Buttress and directly below "The Gills." This route is left of "Fish For Brains" and about 30 feet above the trees. You need to scramble fifth class cracks to get to the base of this route. You will recognize this as a clean slab with glue in protection. Don't mistake this its a glue-in sporty 5.12 neighbor to the east. There is one fixed piton on this route. The crux of this great pitch is avoiding hucking your carcass into the wide crack to the left instead of staying on the slab and charging for the anchors.