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AAV4200AGW Admiral Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for AAV4200AGW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

I used a flat screw driver to push in on the releases so I could raise the top of the machine. I then used a torx tool to remove both parts of the hinge, and then used a #2 phillips screw driver, on the new screws I'd also ordered, to re-attach both of the hinge parts. Every thing went just as anticipated.

Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.

First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.

bearing on water pump siezed

back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!

1)Start with empty washing machine.2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips.4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub.5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out.5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs.6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly.7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub.8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley.9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around.10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber.11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex.12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top.13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it.14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation.15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)

The pump was very easy to replace (3) screws, easy to reach with front panel off. (Less than 5 minut job. The brake assembly and thrust bearing was a little harder to do, but not bad at all. I found it best to flip the unit upside down to do the brake assembly. Replaced #10-24 x 1/2" screws with 2" long ones. Remember to do this (1) at a time, then back all (6) off a little at a time to release tesion on the 200lb spring. Swap out parts and tighten back down with 2" screws and then swap them back out for the 1/2" ones (1) at a time. I tipped the unit back on its side to install the bearing & pully kit. This takes some of the weight off of the main shaft allowing you to insert the spacers and split ring. The replacement parts seem to be of eqal or better quality to the originals. Machine runs quiet and smooth.

Skreeching noise during spin cycle

Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw driver shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.

First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.

The bearing had some kind of metal (couragated) piece that worked it's way loose and was hanging up on the pump housing or retaing plate.

I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off. Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange. I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal. During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket. I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.

It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit. Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top * unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine * tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center * lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop * remove the auger * remove the white top from the tub * remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub * now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers. * remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down * remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws * remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws * now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw * remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal* * the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011

Puddling on the floor. Water was leaking through the impeller bushing on the water pump

..First I sought the source of the water leak, by removing the louvered panel on the rear (4 nut headed screws hold it in place) and observed for water leaks during a wash cycle. This required that I re-position the washer and route the fill and drain hoses in order to stand behind the washer during its cycle to observe through the rear panel opening.

...There was no visible leakage of any of the hoses or connections but I could see the water puddle on the floor was coming from under the water pump located in the front corner.

...I wasn't able to peel the sides off the washer. I disconnected the rear hoses for hot and cold water and the drain hose. I removed the plate on the rear that orients the drain hose.

...I tilted the washer 90 degrees to its front using 2 x 4's to cushion the front so the machine would not be scratched.

....I removed the drive belt underneath. It was easy to remove by hand and did not require loosening screws on any of the pulleys.

...I disconnected the black exhaust hose from the tub with a screw driver and the white drain outlet hose with water pump pliers.

...I then reached into the front corner of the machine through the opening in the back and removed the water pump which is held in place by 3 nut head screws. I used a ratchet set to do this.

...I observed the water pump which is almost all molded plastic. The bushing area in the center attached to the impeller appeared to be wet and rusted. I assumed this to be the source of the water leak. I found the replacement on line at PartSelect site and ordered it. It was much cheaper at PartSelect then other sites.

....When the replacement pump arrived 2 days later , I compared it to the pump I removed. It matched physically including the pulley so then I installed it and re-assembled the washing machine in the reverse order from disassembly.

...I left the louvered panel off and observed the water flow for leaks during the first wash after re-assembly.

...There were no internal leaks and no puddling on the floor, so I replaced the louvered panel and put the washing machine back in place.

The water pump was a bit noisy during the 1st loadbut otherwise the machine ran well. After the 1st load the pump is quiet and the machine runs just as it did before the puddling occurred. It is fine.

After having done this I can say, it was uncomfortable and cramped to reach in through the rear panel opening to remove and replace the water pump. But I could not find a way to lift the top of the machine easily so I could removed the side panels to have better access to the water pump and hoses. If anyone knows a way to do that without unplugging and removing the electronics panel, that would be useful information. Please post it.

It can be done the way I described here because I did it, but that may not be the easiest way if the side panels can be easily removed it would probably be an easier repair.

Washer Made Screeching noise on spin & Rinse

Unplugged Machine, Turned Off Water, Disconnected water and drain hoses. Let water run from hoses ino bucket. Removed back plate where drain hose goes into back of machine. Used pliers to close the clamp holding to drain hose to remove it. I stuffed the exposed water pump opening with towels to keep water from spilling. At this point I leaned the machine over on its front so the back of the machine was facing skyward. I placed a towel over the motor in case water spilled it would not get on the electrical components. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine from the water pumps pully. I then removed the three screws mounting the pump to the bottom of the machine. I disconnected the other hose from the water pump that comes from the wash tank with the pliers. Once disconnected I stuffed the ends of both with towels to keep water from leaking out. I took the new pump and connected the hose from the washer tub with pliers, mounted the pump back to the bottom of the tub with the three screws, replaced the belt, and reconnected the drain hose, and took the towel off the motor. I then replaced the back plate and set the machine upright. I connected all the hoses back up and plugged it in. It worked great. If you spill water on the motor you can dry it with a hair dryer.

You do not have to remove any water lines to do this repair. Just unplug the machine from the electric outlet and tip it up on its back to make the repair. I removed the old belt and parts per the instructions. The new kit does not look like the old one. Make sure you mark the minimum and maximum marks with a sharpie on the plastic pulley before intalling it. This will help line up the cam bearing to test the spin cycle. The repair kit says to use the thickest washer but mine would not fit on so I used the thinner washer. Keep the other washer so that in the future if the plastic part wears down and you have spinning problems again you can replace it with the thicker washer. Also make sure you buy a new belt and replace the belt. I loaded it up with a full load of jeans and it works great.