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Hi,
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most of the time there is a air leak in one of the two crank shaft seals.to get to them you need to pull off the flywheel and the clutch assy.look for wet areas. that will be where the seal is letting out the oil and air.If you keep putting starting fluid in the carburator you will burn the rings,the piston and the cylinder up

That seems to imply that the check valves in the primer pump and in the fuel pump section of the carburetor are bad or the air pressure just forced by the valves. The line without the filter is the tank return line from the primer pump. The primer pump is supposed to pull fuel from the fuel filter into the carburetor flooding all spaces within it it, then passing out to the primer pump and from there, back into the tank. Does the primer bulb fill with fuel after several pumps? The first try may take longer because you forced all of the fuel out of the carburetor with the air pressure. Make sure all of the carburetor fasteners are tight. It's possible that you have injured the diaphragm in the carburetor lower chamber when you blew air into the line. Go to: www.drystacked.com for a 12 page article on Walbro carburetor theory and troubleshooting. Make sure the spark plug gap is set at 0.020". Hope some of this helps!

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That does seem low, but it's a 2cycle.
It hasn't been run hot or w/o proper gas/oil mix has it ?
Will it fire with a squirt of starter fluid ?
If you squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, does the compression go up very much ?
If it has spark and won't fire w/starter fluid sprayed in thru the carb, it's most likely a ring/piston/cylinder problem.
If it fires with starter fluid, it's fuel not getting into the cylinder.

to remove contaminated fuel , pull a fuel line of the fuel manifold and run the pump for a few seconds
not firing is sensor , immobilizer , ignition module problem but you stat that it fires on starter fluid so that cannot be right
starter fluid is a d good way of damaging the engine
a better way is to find and fix the fault
now to try and sort out what you are saying
it is cranking so the starter is good
it tries to run on starter fluid so there is spark to the plugs
it will not run and that indicates a lack of fuel to the injectors
a lack of fuel indicates
1--- a bad fuel pump
2--a vacuum in ht e fuel system from the tank not venting properly(EVAP system)
3--- fuel pressure regulator not working and providing pressure to the injectors
4--- bad injectors --- need cleaning
dump the starter fluid , buy a workshop manual and fix the problem properly

If it turns, then the battery is OK. Either spark plugs are not firing in proper order (wrong firing order), no power to spark plugs, or no fuel because of fuel restrictions (dirty fuel filter). Inspect the air filter to ascertain its not clogged air. If you smell gas, then you saturated the spark plugs, which is why it refuses to run.
Let it sit for half hour to let spark plugs dry. Inspect to ascertain its not dirty spark plugs, which will also prevent engine from running. After ascertaining its proper firing order, spark plugs are clean, and there's power to distributor cap, ascertain there's fuel in fuel lines by squirting half second (short squirt) of starting fluid into air filter. Close the air filter housing to trap flammable starting fluid gas. Turn engine without giving throttle. Let starting fluid be ignited by spark plugs. If it won't start, then spark plugs are not firing to ignite starting fluid gas. If it starts briefly, but won't run when you give throttle, but catches when a 2nd person squirts more starting fluid into air filter just before engine stalls, then its a fuel restriction issue or no fuel in fuel lines.

how is the fuel flow? i just went rounds with a mower and it turned out the tank vent was faulty stopping the amount of fuel flow to the carb. it would flow fine for a minute until it needed air in the tank and then would stop.

Sounds like you have a compression problem. Starting fluid will fire at a much lower compression than a gas/oil mix so that's why it will start with it. When the motor is running you get a little more compression because the piston is coming up so fast. You should check the condition of your cylinder wall and piston & ring. If they are damaged at all you loose compression which directly affects starting and running power.

Did the saw sit for this time with gas in it? If so, the gas in the carb has probably turned to shellac. Take the top cover off, remove the air filter, open the carb butterfly and spray some carb cleaner in it. Wait 24 hours and try to get it to fire. While you're waiting, check the plug for fouling. If it still won't fire, give it a small shot of starter fluid.

Brake cleaner might not be the best choice for test firing... Pick up a can of Starting Fluid and spray a VERY SMALL amount into the air filter...
If it still doesn't turn over the engine might be worn out/damaged internally... At this point I'd compression test the engine and if the compression is lower then 80-90PSI It would be time to get a new saw.. If you can't get you hands on a compression tester you might want to take it to a Lawn and Garden shop and have them look at it..

If it does turn over with the Starting Fluid you looking at a fuel problem and I'd start with changing the gas with a fresh can and checking the (fuel filter) <-- found in fuel tank...

It will run with the bar off..

The brake only stops the chain and has nothing to do with the spark...