my crafty adventures

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About me

Welcome to my blog! My name is Jessica, and I'm a music professor from Kentucky. This blog details my journey into DIY style. I love to sew and knit my own clothes, and I'm a dedicated thrift store shopper! I also love fashion, so I'm attempting to marry my interests without causing myself to go bankrupt. I love bright colors, full skirts, and vintage styles. I love to answer questions, and I can be reached by email at jmills01@gmail.com.

Month: May 2012

Apparently I’m a big fan of crazy prints. I bought this print from fabric.com last year, and upon receiving it I loved it – but I also knew that it had to be made into a dress without seams. This print deserved to be seen as a whole! I thought about a tank dress, but I worried that I wouldn’t like it – I generally prefer my dresses to have a waist seam, because it makes it easy to fit.

I decided on this pattern because it was so simple. There are only two pieces to cut. The pattern calls for turning under and sewing the neckline and armholes, but I felt it needed a more finished edge. I ended up sacrificing an old knit dress and using the fabric for the binding. I’ve done that several times – every garment in my Goodwill pile gets scrutinized for other uses first!

I used the back piece from the other view because I prefer the slight racer back. This isn’t much of a racerback, as I was able to wear a normal (if slightly close set) bra. The only other alteration I made was in the shaping – I ended up cutting a size 8, blending to a 10 at the hips. After basting I realized that I needed to take in the top by several inches to get the fit I had in mind (I wanted negative ease, but there was nothing wrong with the way it was drafted.)

I constructed the entire thing by serger. I only used my machine to top stitch the binding! That’s one of my resolutions – to use my serger for actual construction, not just for finishing edges. I’ll admit that it’s a little terrifying to cut as I sew, but it’s so much faster!

I highly recommend this pattern. One of my more fashionable friends saw it today and said “Did you make that? I think it’s my favorite thing you’ve made!” Another friend said “I totally thought that had to come from a store.” While storebought isn’t my aim all the time, I appreciate that it doesn’t look badly homemade! I would suggest making your own binding, as I don’t think a turned edge would look nearly as nice. Just cut a strip of knit fabric (doesn’t have to be on the bias for knits) and sew (or serge) it in place, right sides together. My piece was about 2 inches wide. Then trim your seam down to however wide you want your binding (or just use the serged edge, that’s what I did.) Press over, so that the seam is enclosed by the binding and top stitch. Trim close to the stitching on the wrong side. You could make real binding with turned under edges, but I didn’t bother since this is a knit and won’t fray.

I have not hemmed it yet – I’m waiting to see if it stretches! This afternoon I wore it with a sweater for teaching:

I’m pretty much failing at me-made-May this time around, so this will do. I had good intentions, but I have had so much to do this month. There are some exciting things going on, and I’ll be sure to post about them as soon as things settle down. I have two weddings to sing this weekend – must be June!

Fabric: Leftover from a maxi dress I made last year. This is a nylon/lycra knit with a lot of drape and stretch.

Notions: Double fold bias tape

Notes:

I really like how this top came out. This might be my favorite fabric ever, so I’m pleased I got to use up every bit! I need more tops, and I’m trying to make that happen this month – we will see how it goes, as I get bored easily!

Although I like how it came out, the process was way difficult. I ended up altering the directions for the neckline/sleeve treatment quite a bit. Here is a closeup of that area (on the envelope it is made in black and impossible to see!)

First thing to know: you absolutely cannot wear a normal bra with this top. The straps will show. I’d recommend either a strapless or a camisole that looks like you’re exposing straps on purpose!

Second thing to know: the wrong side of your fabric will show. I wouldn’t recommend a knit that is totally white on one side for that reason.

Third thing to know: Most of the pattern uses 3/8″ seam allowances, but I’m not clear if they all are that way. I treated the entire top that way, and it worked out. I used my serger for most of the construction.

Fourth thing to know: The instructions for the shoulders are odd. They call for creating a self facing from the fabric, which is fine except that the holes are quite floppy and they aren’t sewn down. The facing would constantly flip out (a review on Patternreview mentions this issue.) I turned back the facing and then hemmed it. That way it looks finished and I don’t have to worry. This did change the way I dealt with the neck, leading to…

Fifth thing to know: The entire weight of the top hangs off that narrow neck binding. The instructions call for self fabric with interfacing. Now, I don’t have any knit interfacing, and even if I did I don’t think that binding is substantial enough to support all that weight. I instead used plain old double fold bias tape, turned under to make a narrow edge. I was worried about how it would look, but it’s fine, and this way the top won’t stretch. My head fits through the neck opening easily, and I have a giant head!

Because I hemmed the shoulder openings before attaching the binding they are attached flat – I butted the openings next to each other and sewed them to the binding, attaching the shoulders to the top that way. It worked fine, but it is not the way the pattern wanted them attached.

The openings fall to the front. From the back it looks like puff sleeves. I did not hem the top – I have a long torso and didn’t think to lengthen. The sleeve hems themselves are a little narrow – the top has quite a lot of ease, so I cut the XXS. I’d usually cut the small or XS, and I should have given a little more room in the upper arms, but oh well – it’s a knit!

I’m going to go ahead and recommend the pattern with my alterations. I haven’t tried the other views, but they look simpler. There are other patterns with cut out shoulders, but I haven’t seen any that are as drapey as these, which I prefer. This is the first time I’ve used a bias tape on a knit (I know Amanda does this all the time!) and I’m surprised at how well it worked!

I cannot seem to settle down to do any one thing this week! Now that graduation is over I seem to have acres of free time, but also tons of things to fill all my free time with. So it’s time for another post of scattered thoughts – if I wait until I can come up with a single topic I know I won’t post for a week!

– I think I need to sew some tops. It’s been challenging this month, in part because I have so few tops for warm weather. I love knit tops, so I need to get up and make some! I’m having some trouble deciding on what to make next. Look for a post soon on my plans!

– My husband and I are traveling to Minneapolis/st. Paul in a few weeks for my Godson’s baptism. We plan to travel through Chicago, Milwaulkee and probably Madison, so any suggestions for fabric stores along that route are more than welcome – I’m definitely planning on dragging Marc there! In addition, I might be interested in a meetup, but it depends on my schedule. Graduation has caused me to be slow at planning!

– I have acquired new electronics again. It’s funny, because my husband is the computer guy, but I’m the one who always wants all the gadgets! My Mom bought me a Kindle touch for a graduation present and I love it. I’ve become a little obsessed with it, to tell you the truth! I’ve downloaded a ton a free classic books to it. Currently I’m reading “Three Men in a boat“. How have I missed this book? Highly recommended for fans of British humor. I also got a PSP, because I am behind the times, but I figured it would be good for travel (besides the trip this summer I’m looking at a long choir tour in Europe (Austria, Germany, the Czech Republic and Slovakia) in the spring.) I love to travel, and I’m grateful to have the opportunity.

– I finished P90x – woo! I gained a lot of strength through the program – I went from being able to do 4 pushups on my toes to 18, and now I can do full pull-ups. I’d recommend the program to anyone looking for a solid strength program. Be aware though that there are some limitations, as follows:

– I did all the weight workouts as proscribed (3x per week.) There were a few weeks where I was feeling bad so I skipped the repeat of the exercises. Most of the videos are structured so that it’s easy to do a half workout rotation just by skipping the repeats (or in the leg workout skipping the back sections, as there is another back video).

– Speaking of that legs video, you will do it every week, and that is a lot. I got pretty tired of it at the end, but I do think it’s a decent workout. There were a few weeks I subbed a barre workout instead. It’s mostly unweighted (or light weights) so I feel that works.

– I only did the YogaX dvd once. Instead I subbed other yoga (I joined “My yoga online” and really love it!) It do think yoga helps, and I’m glad this got me started. I try to do it twice a week now.

– I hardly did any cardio. The weather has been nice, so I walk everywhere, and I call that good enough. I didn’t notice any adverse effects from that, though I’m sure I should do more.

– Now that I’ve finished P90x I plan to start Cathe Friedrich’s STS (I have some of her step and strength dvds and love them.) I probably won’t start until after our trip, as I’m too busy right now!

And… that’s all for tonight. I haven’t had time to sew this week, but I hope to catch some time soon. Things are generally slower for me in the summer, but I’m not sure that’s going to be the case this year.

So far me-made May has been a tougher challenge than I expected. I certainly have plenty of handmade clothes, but I find myself reluctant to wear some of them. I have come to the realization that my personal style has changed quite a bit in the past few years!

When I started sewing I was mainly excited to have more dresses, and specifically pretty sundresses. I made a ton of them, and while I think they are pretty in the abstract I don’t find myself reaching for them.

With those in mind, here are my outfits from the second week of me-made May along with commentary:

Me-made item: Simplicity 2219

Comments: This dress remains my favorite handmade item ever, and no I am not exaggerating! I love the print, which is interesting without being overwhelming, and the style of the dress itself is very graceful. In fact, why haven’t I made another of these? I think I will have to put that on my list!

Pattern review: I loved this pattern, but after making it I do have one comment. If you use a knit with lycra it will stretch over time. I’ve taken it up at the shoulders twice, and I’m about to do the hem again. I reinforced all my seams, but this is just a lot of fabric!

Me-made item: Colette patterns Beignet skirt

Comments: I’m surprised by how much I still love this skirt, and how well made it is (it was my third project.) Colette patterns have super instructions! I love this outfit – the stripes go well with the yellow. I would rather have a different shirt, but I’m eternally low on solid colored tops.

Pattern comments: I would not make another skirt from cotton twill – this wrinkles are epic by the end of the day, and it does not stretch at all, leading to a slightly odd look when sitting. The lining has shrunk slightly unevenly, and is now prone to sticking out of the bottom when I sit. I’m thinking of removing it entirely, as it doesn’t help with wrinkling and I don’t wear this in the winter!

Me-made item: Simplicity 2443 (dress and jacket)

Comments: This outfit doesn’t really work for me. The blue of the jacket doesn’t go with the dress, and both pieces work better with other items in my wardrobe. I keep trying to wear these sandals, but I just don’t like them (or sandals in general for some reason – I own very few!)

Pattern comments: I’ve made it twice, so I must like it! I actually wear the grey version of this dress more often, but I love the blue as well. The jacket never fails to get compliments, but I don’t really like it with the dress in the pattern. It’s too boxy with the gathered skirt.

Me-made item: Vogue 1179 (dress)

Comments: I like this outfit. It’s comfortable for teaching but still professional, a difficult balance. The shoes are keds with wedge heels – love them! The cardigan is by Rachael Roy and is my favorite in the world. I’m so glad the style has gone to long cardigans again!

Pattern comments: This pattern is awesome. I’ve helped a few other people make one as well, and it looks great on everyone! I want to make another in the future.

Me-made item: the obi belt (and I also altered the dress pretty heavily from its original state.)

Comments: I wear this outfit pretty often – it’s one of my current favorites. The dress is a knit, so it’s comfortable, and the belt makes it more interesting (it’s a bit dull on its own.) I love the bateau neckline – why don’t I own more of them?

Pattern comments: I’ve made this belt twice. This version gets worn more often, but I love them both. I want to make one out of leather!

Me-made item: Vogue 8469 (dress)

Comments: This is an example of an outfit that doesn’t feel like me anymore. This dress is only a year old, but I have to admit that even when I made it originally I had doubts. I don’t like to use the phrase “too young,” as I pretty much think you should wear whatever makes you happy. What I am thinking is: not sophisticated enough. The print makes it cutesy, and the thick black band (and back tie, which you can’t see) make it seem a little cheap to me. I love color and pattern, but this one doesn’t do it for me – it feels like wearing a costume.

Pattern comments: See the above paragraph. I think this pattern has a tendency to look a little too home-ec for my taste, and I don’t recommend it.

Me-made item: Simplicity 2603 (cardigan)

Comments: I know, pants! One thing I’ve been trying to do this year is incorporate more silhouettes into my style, and pants are a big one. I like them, but I do have a hard time finding well fitted jeans. These are from NY and Co, and I think they fit me because they are a petite (I am all torso.) I like this outfit, even the pairing of the pink wrap with the brown top.

Pattern comments: Hasn’t everyone made one of these? It’s a great pattern, but if I made another I would go for the shorter version. This one can only be worn tied.

I’ve also used the gel-nail system I bought myself twice more since I posted. I thought I would post them for anyone interested – feel free to ignore! The first manicure lasted 2 weeks! The second lasted only 4 days, but that’s my fault – if you use regular polish between the layers it must be completely dry before topcoating, and I got impatient.

This is a neon purple (by Massini, a brand I can only find at Meijer stores) topped with a Konad stamp in zebra print. You can see I had trouble getting the black stamp excess off my cuticles, but that’s ok – it didn’t last that long anyway!

This is Misa “Hot People like you,” a sheer neon pink with a little shimmer. I used two coats of that, then used 2 coats of a black/silver glitter, and finished with another coat of the pink. I read about this on a nail blog – it’s called a jelly sandwich, with glitter in between. I really like it!

I don’t usually enjoy sewing for a specific occasion. More often than not I wind up not finishing in time, which leads to guilt – and since sewing is a hobby, I try to avoid that feeling! I really wanted to make a dress for my graduation ceremony, in spite of the fact that no one would see it until after. And while yes, it’s true that I was putting the zipper in at 10 o clock this morning (I had to line up at 11!) I’m still pleased with my choice.

I bought this fabric from fashion fabrics club a few months ago. I order a lot of prints from them, because they tend to be cheap, but you never really know what the weight or quality will be. Fortunately, this fabric is lovely for a dress – it has a nice drape, isn’t too sheer, and doesn’t wrinkle badly (the photos were taken after the three hour ceremony – it survived this uncrumpled under a robe!)

About the pattern: Well, it seems to be a popular choice right now. I was attracted to the neckline, and thought it would be pretty simple to sew. The directions were, as usual for a Project Runway pattern, pretty scattered. They were accurate, it’s just that at times it was hard to know what view/steps I should move to next. I figured it out – the view I made is bodice A combined with the sleeveless armhole finish and skirt without pockets. The pattern was really well drafted – no issues with that.

I do have a few issues with this dress on my particular body type. In the photo above I’m holding out the skirt as though it had a crinoline. Here is the view without:

I have broad shoulders for my size, and the top of this dress makes me look a wee bit boxy. This is not generally a concern of mine, but I do recall not loving this sort of neckline the last time it was popular. I think I can fix the proportions by simply wearing the dress with a little crinoline in the future. Don’t misunderstand – I don’t think I look bad here, just that I think it could be improved!

The yoke was not as hard to construct as I feared. I have one issue – since the yoke is only attached at the armholes but not across the front, the keyhole tends to gape open a bit if I lean over. I’m going to go back and top stitch it to the bodice front. Now it’s entirely possible that I missed that direction – I was running behind a bit, and probably skipped some steps!

Ah, there are the sitting wrinkles! The back fits very nicely. The scoop is low, but wearable with a bra (the front, however, requires a bra with really wide skinny straps not to show under the keyhole. I wore a strapless.

I have a serged hem in these photos, as I haven’t decided for certain on the length. I may take an inch or two off – I think it would help with the proportions. Other alterations: I had to taper 2 inches out of the waist of the dress, as I probably cut a size too big there. I do recommend this pattern – it’s an adorable design! My only real advice is to check the fit on the keyhole – I am a B cup, but it is slightly big.

Here is how I actually spent the day:

(my parents, husband, and myself after the ceremony)

It took a long time for me to get here, and it feels good to finally clear the last hurdle. What comes next for me? Well, I already feel so lucky. I decided long ago that what I really wanted out of life was to find a way to thrive doing what I love. People hear I’m a professional musician and assume that I’m after some sort of elusive fame or fortune, but that’s not the case. For the vast majority of us, the joy comes from being able to live with music every day – to surround myself with my fellow musicians and live in that space (and hopefully earn enough to pay the bills… that always helps.)

So I don’t plan to change – rather to continue on as I have been, finding new opportunities and places to do what I love. I don’t know where that will take me, but I’m ok with being along for the ride. As always, thanks so much for reading, and congratulations to all the other graduates out there this year!

Thank you so much to everyone who wrote me about Sarah Jane. I showed the comments to my husband, and I know they made him feel better as well. I wish I could respond to you each individually, but right now it’s too difficult for me to talk about her. Know that your words and prayers were truly appreciated. My friends and family have been wonderful throughout this time – truly I did not know how much support we had, and I am very grateful. I am feeling at peace with our decision, and every day gets a bit easier. My other cats are a comfort – Leon (my Maine Coon) who has always been my cat, has taken to lying close to Marc on the sofa, almost as though he knows how much my husband misses having a cat by his side.

People cope with sadness in different ways. Routine is very comforting to me. I like to be busy (in general, but especially at difficult times.) I find talking about my feelings to be extremely difficult. My Myers-Briggs type is INTJ, which explains a lot about me! My husband and best friend are all the same type, and we all have this issue. Which is all a very long way of saying that, though it feels a bit frivilous, I have been taking my me-made-May photos. It makes me feel better to continue with a project. I missed the few days where I was the most upset, but otherwise I’ve been trying to get through. Here are the newest photos/pattern reviews: not my best, but I’m pleased that I took them!

Friday, May 4th

Me-made item: Vogue 8231

Comments: I didn’t finish the entire dress, but I did finish and wear the top on Oaks day (KY derby eve). I wore this to play the piano for a fundraising brunch. Funny story: I arrived at the venue on time, having set up my borrowed digital piano the night before. It worked fine then, but when I turned it on Friday morning I got an error that could not be cleared (something having to do with the soundbank.) I ended up sending my husband on an emergency piano retrieval mission, and had to play a Casio digital keyboard. It was not my most shining moment (really, could anything be shining on a Casio keyboard?) but we got through!

I don’t really like the top with these pants. I was going for a sort of retro cigarette pants look, but I think these pants aren’t quite skinny enough. This is a place where photos really help me out – I thought they were ok in the mirror, but I didn’t like any of the photos. Oh well – I will finish the skirt soon!

After the brunch I changed clothes and went to a cookout at a friend’s house. Alas, I did not wear anything I made there, but I figure I had met my goal for the day.

About the pattern: well, obviously I haven’t made the skirt, so I’m not doing a full review yet. I can tell you my alterations: I used double fold bias tape to finish the armhole and neck edges, and I eliminated the sleeves (I really love bias tape by the way – it makes everything so neat!) I removed 1″ at center back and tapered the side seams in towards the waist, as it was a bit boxy on me. It does wrinkle a bit, but not as bad as I initially feared!

I used self-fabric covered buttons on the back. I cannot recommend buttons on your back unless you never lean back… cute, but not super comfortable! I will do a full review later, when I finish the skirt.

Comments: Derby day! Note my lack of giant hat. I went to a party and then out for drinks with friends in my neighborhood later, and my goal was to be comfortable! At most derby parties you tend to sit around, occasionally watch races, and eat lots of little foods, so comfort is key!

Pattern comments: I really like this cardigan – it’s comfortable and long, but not sloppy. Unfortunately, the pleated detail is lost in this fabric, but it’s still nice! I would make it again, but my pattern is lost. Maybe I will buy it again someday. My fabric is wearing out – not that it’s bad, but I’ve worn this to death!

I can’t get over how much longer my hair has grown this year! And yes, I picked this photo because Leon was in it – he has to be around when I’m taking photos! Today was mostly for catching up on things – I went grocery shopping (and made an excellent roasted sweet potato/apple salad with sweet balsamic dressing.) I also took a nice long walk and met my Mom for coffee to discuss plans for my graduation next weekend, and I did a new set of gel nails (the last ones lasted over a week without chipping, but I got bored – I think I could easily get 2 weeks!)

Pattern comments:

I think I might like it more now than when I finished it. It’s casual and comfortable, and it’s easy to wear in lots of situations. The back can be a problem – if I don’t watch, and the shoulder seams fall back, it exposes my bra strap. I don’t think this is a pattern failing – rather, I needed to shorten the armhole length. This has become a common alteration for me – it seems that I have a short armpit – shoulder length. The cowl drapes stay in place, even though I didn’t sew them down.

I spilled dressing on this at dinner, but luckily it washed out. I still may go back and add some hems to this dress, but it’s wearable as is – this was before I had figured out a strategy for hemming knits.

That’s all for now. Hopefully I will have time to work on my graduation dress tomorrow, so that I can finish it this week!

This morning we had to make the impossible decision – to say goodbye to our cat Sarah Jane. Yesterday she fell and broke her leg, and with her age, diabetes, and kidney problems, we felt that it was time to let her go rather than force her to endure surgery and a long re-cooperation.

A friend of ours found Sarah Jane five years ago, digging through trash in her neighborhood. She had obviously been someone’s pet, now abandoned (she had no claws at all.) She weighed only 5 pounds then, and she was mostly blind from untreated diabetes. I thought we could give her a comfortable home for a few months, but she lived far beyond our expectations.

Along the way she became a valued member of our family, especially for my husband. She slept on him every night and waited by the door for his appearance. Last night he slept with her on the floor of the dining room, as she couldn’t go up stairs any longer, and I think that made her happy. This is so hard on him that it breaks my heart – I loved her, but she was his special cat. I know how hard it was for him to let her go, but we were with her to the end, which was peaceful.

She was cranky beyond all belief, and we loved her for it. I’d like to encourage anyone with the resources to consider taking in a special needs or elderly cat. It’s true that she wasn’t with us for that long, but I know how happy she was in those five years. There are many abandoned animals who need homes, and I know someday we will open our hearts to another. We are making a donation to the Shamrock Foundation in her name. They are a local organization that does good work with abandoned, stray, and abused animals.

If you have a pet, give them a hug for me. I think it can be hard for some people to understand, but we don’t have (and likely won’t have) children, so our pets are really our family. Regular me-made posts will resume soon, but today I’m taking time to be with my husband and other cats (Leon and Dionne).