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Stoner...yep those are 120mm punches. The rear has 2x120mm cutouts already and won't be punched...unless i change my mind

60mm fan under the CPU is planned as 0-60 mentioned. Not sure what you are talking about the 80mm on the right side panel?

I'm also cutting out an access to the NB from the rear too.

This case will be positive airflow designed..."chimeny" effect. 2x120 rears, 1x120 side, and 1x120 front all blow in and 1x120 Top and PSU exahust. This should provide the best cooling and also prevents dust from accumulating in the case!

I will post results when this baby is done...or Rando can enlighten us with the results

You know how a lot of folks have a blow hole on the left panel above the CPU so the HSF gets fresh air? Well since you have a under the socket fan, shouldn't you also make a blow hole on the right panel for that fan? Does it sound confusing?

Originally posted by AmStoned You know how a lot of folks have a blow hole on the left panel above the CPU so the HSF gets fresh air? Well since you have a under the socket fan, shouldn't you also make a blow hole on the right panel for that fan? Does it sound confusing?

Ok I see what you are getting at....yes there will be a blowhole for the 60mm fan beneath the socket!

And here is the fan grommets, automotive vacume hose (about 50 cents a foot) cut to 1/4' lengths, slipped over the screw on either side of the fan to reduce vibration. The pic show #8 2' countersink machine screws, but they are a bit long, so I ended up using 1-1/2' #8's

Yes it did, drilled the rivets out of one side of the psu tray, but had to twist on it a little to get it loose from the other side as there's no access to the rivets, then marked and ground out the provided psu plate for access to the plug, drilled a few holes and viola

I may have to get a higher cfm Top fan since this Positive Airflow design is counting on the Top fan to exahust all the Hot Air rising. Wanted to use the Panaflo L1A here but with all of my 5 1/4" bays being used, there was clearance for the Panaflo.

Sorry I haven't been around here much, but am really am interested in getting an 80mm side fan hole made for my Fong Kai. I don't know if there's a wait list for your mods or anything, or what the charge will be though. Let me know if we can work something out. Thanks a bunch! :spin:

Originally posted by Darksword Sorry I haven't been around here much, but am really am interested in getting an 80mm side fan hole made for my Fong Kai. I don't know if there's a wait list for your mods or anything, or what the charge will be though. Let me know if we can work something out. Thanks a bunch! :spin:

DK, I only have a holesaw for a 120mm hole and now a 60mm hole (IA). Why not go with a 120mm. It would make life much easier and it would be quieter too .

Originally posted by ImaginAsian 0-60 is just LAZY and don't wanna help a friend out :p

Thanks for the tips there Jupes...Rando also suggested using like model paint from the hobby store as well. Looks like Im gonna get a crash course in painting in about two weeks!!

Rando is gonna do a kewl bezel mod on his...I will let him tell you so I don't steal his thunder!!

Wonder if LiteOn has extra bezels for me to screw up :spin:

I suggested model paint because there are several different cool colors to choose from, and of course, it's for plastic, and they offer primer as well. You can get the small cans of testors spray paint from any hobby shop, even wally-world sells it, just not a wide selection, but they could have what your looking for.

All I was going to do with the hideous front bezel was turn it into a large AMD case badge, and it may turn out to look like ass, but I'll just paint it over if so, but we'll see.........

I recommend you strip your case before you cut your 120mm hole. Metal particles will go everywhere and like hiding in tiny spaces only to damage your components when they become dislodged later . As far as the rivets, if they are aluminum, just whack them off with a wood chisel and buy some self-tapping screws to replace them with.

Of course I would never cut the whole w/ components present! What I was wondering was if anyone knows how to remove the pannel so I wouldn't HAVE to gut the machine. Looks like it's rivet cutting time then

Originally posted by JohnnyBra Of course I would never cut the whole w/ components present! What I was wondering was if anyone knows how to remove the pannel so I wouldn't HAVE to gut the machine. Looks like it's rivet cutting time then

Sorry JB, I misread your post. I see what you meant now. Now go cut them rivets

Originally posted by Jupiler 026..., IA, Rando :
I called the distributor for Liteon cases for Europe today.
He told the case also exists with a white bezel.
I asked him if I could get and extra front for the case, so I can try another color.
He told he would ask for it and call me back. Normally, he should be able to get one. I hope so, so I can try green and red.

Crapola!!! I asked Outside Loop the very same question and they said they didn't hear any news from LiteOn about it. Guess I'll ask again.

I did use a holesaw on IA's case and my case as well. I used a Dremel to do my first mod and a holesaw is so much better. Clean cut with only a little grinding and sanding with a Dremel afterwards to smooth out the sharp edges. It took me 1-2 hours to cut a 120mm hole with a Dremel, it takes about 15 minutes with a holesaw. Also a much cleaner cut. I was using cutting discs at the time, so maybe the new rotozip adapter may work better.

BTW, I used a 114mm holesaw for the 120mm fan and a 54mm holesaw for the 60mm fan. The holesaw is a little tricky to get lined up perfectly, but it gets easier after the first time .

Originally posted by Rando 0-60, I picked up the rotozip adapter a few nights ago from wally world for $17 and some change, haven't tried it on any fan holes, but it did work great on the hole I made to mount my nurse....

I'm realy interested to see how it holds up with metal. I used about 15 cutting discs on IA's case and wonder if the rotozip bits would last longer. I like your nurse location. IA wants his above the LED but I don't think there will be enough clearance with the LED/switch housing back there.

I'm a little curious to see how the bits hold up also, they claim it'll eat sheet aluminum, but I'm sure it'll cut a nice hole in thin case steel, but you'll more than likely ruin a bit doing it. Note the position of the nurse in relation to the raised bumps on the case, it's not perfectly centered from top to bottom, or side to side, but I had to position it there because the extra plastic behind the front, leftover from the molding process didn't allow it to be. From a look at the led area, like you say, there doesn't appear to be room enough for an install

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