Urumqi

Urumqi overview

Situated in a pocket of green on the north face of the Tian Shan mountain range and surrounded by expansive grasslands, desert basins and rugged, snow-capped peaks, Urumqi (Wūlǔmùqí, 乌鲁木齐), the capital of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, is full of surprises for newcomers. The resident Muslim Uyghur people often look more Central Asian or European than Chinese, and their culture is just as distinct. Urumqi is a landlocked city—in fact, the world's most landlocked, over 2,500 km (1,400 mi) from the nearest seacoast—surrounded by vast areas of harsh wilderness. Yet it is also a very modern city, sporting its share of new skyscrapers, highways, gourmet restaurants and luxury malls.

Its unique combination of urban sophistication and proximity to natural beauty, along with its mix of Central Asian and Chinese cultures, makes Urumqi a wonderful place to visit, whether for its own sake or as a base for explorations of Xinjiang's outlying destinations. Get a taste of old Silk Road commerce by shopping at the Erdaoqiao Grand Bazaar, explore the history of Xinjiang and see the famous 3,800-some-year old "Loulan Beauty" mummy at the Xinjiang Museum, head into the Tian Shan mountain range for a hike or horseback ride before spending the night in a Kazakh yurt on the shores of Tian Chi (Heavenly Lake), then return to the city to spend the next night comfortably at a five-star hotel in Urumqi.

Urumqi stay

There are an increasing number of high end hotels in Urumqi and it's a bit trickier to find budget accommodations there than in years past, though cheap beds are available. The Home Inn (Urumqi Hualing Road) is one option offering basic, 2-star chain hotel rooms. The Super 8 is also a chain but its ultra neat rooms come at a slightly higher price.

With the recent boom in Xinjiang's tourism industry, there are new hotels in Urumqi springing up all the time, so check back for updates.

Urumqi go

As the capital of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, Urumqi is a transportation hub not only for journeys within Xinjiang but also connecting the region with other provinces of China and beyond. Be aware that Urumqi and the rest of the region officially follow Beijing time but there is two time zones' worth of distance between Xinjiang and the Chinese capital. This means things can get confusing. While all public transportation runs to Beijing time, many locals operate on the unofficial "Xinjiang time," which runs two hours behind. Any times referred to here follow Beijing time.

Getting around Urumqi

The city has a fairly well developed highway system which makes automobile travel fast and easy. While it is possible to get around by foot, Urumqi is big and not particularly pedestrian-friendly. Renting a car or taking taxis is usually the fastest and most efficient way to get around the city.

Bus

Public buses are everywhere in Urumqi, however, they are not frequently used by tourists or foreigners due to the fact that all schedules are in Chinese. If you are a Chinese language speaker or willing to risk getting your schedule a little mixed up to save a few kuai, keep in mind that pickpockets are common on buses. A cross between a bus and a tram and rather easier to navigate are the city's BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) buses. These are an efficient but crowded way to get around. BRT1 runs straight down Youhao Lu (Yǒuhǎo lù 友好路) to the train station and BRT 3 connects the Erdaoqiao Bazaar with People's Park and ultimately terminates with a connection to BRT1 at its northern end. Just put RMB 1 in the box to enter the platform and hop on.

Taxi

The base rate for taxis in Urumqi is RMB 6 for the first 3 km (1.8 mi) and RMB 1.6 for each additional kilometer during the daytime, RMB 1.8 at night. While we don't advise taking black cabs (unlicensed taxis) there are lots of them to be found operating in the city. If you do take one, you shouldn't pay more than RMB 20 for any journey within the city.

To and from Urumqi

International travelers can take direct flights to Urumqi Diwopu International Airport or enter via a connecting domestic China flight. International flights from Urumqi include Seoul, Tashkent, Istanbul and Terhan. The Urumqi Railway Station (Wūlǔmùqí Huǒchēzhàn, 乌鲁木齐火车站) connects the city to the rest of China.

Air

Located in the suburbs about 16 km(10 mi) away from the city center, Urumqi Diwopu International Airport is a hub for China Southern airlines and a focus city for Hainan Airlines. A number of Greater Middle Eastern airlines operate flights to and from Urumqi including Ariana Afghan Airlines, Azerbaijan Airlines and Air Astana. The airport consists of three terminals so be sure to check which one your flight departs from. A metered taxi from Urumqi airport to the city center will cost around RMB 50 and take about 20 minutes.

Airport enquiries: (86 991) 380 1453

Train

Located at the foot of Yamalike Mountain, Urumqi Railway Station is in Shayibake District just southwest of downtown Urumqi. It's about RMB 10 to take a taxi to the city center, alternatively, buses 10, 16, 20, 36, 44, 50, 52, 58, 903, 906, 909, or 915 will also get you there. Trains from here serve all major cities within China as well as towns and cities within Xinjiang. There is also one international train traveling between Almaty (capital of Kazakhstan) and Urumqi. Due to Urumqi's remote location, travelers are strongly recommended to book a sleeper train ticket as many train trips can exceed 30 hours. Trains to Kashgar take 24-33 hours, to Beijing or Xi'an approximatey 34 hours and to Shanghai 44 hours.

Train enquiries: (86 991) 581 3771

Bus

Xinjiang's highway system is relatively well developed and long-distance buses run from Urumqi to nearly all other cities within Xinjiang on a daily basis. Buses depart from either the main long-distance bus station, Niǎnzigōu Qìchē Zhàn (碾子沟汽车站) which serves destinations including Almaty, Burqin, Korgas, Lanzhou, Tacheng and Yili, or the Southern Long-distance Bus Station (Nánjiāo Kèyùn Zhàn, 南郊客运站), which serves Hotan, Kashgar, Korla, Kuche and Turpan. Convenient and relatively inexpensive tour buses operate from People's Park to neighboring scenic spots such as Tianchi 120 km (75 mi) away and the Nanshan Grasslands 75 km (47 mi) away.

Urumqi eat

Xinjiang, home of Muslim Uyghur and Kazakh minorities as well as a growing Han Chinese immigrant population, offers unique regional cuisines as well as traditional Chinese food and, as tourism increases, a number of international options. Although Uyghur fare is distinct from Chinese food, it should be familiar to anyone who has spent time in big Chinese city, as enterprising Uyghur immigrants have set up pulled noodle shops and kebab grills all over urban China.

Uyghur food centers on lamb and mutton prepared in a number of ways and the famous pulled noodles (laghman in Uyghur; lāmiàn, 拉面 in Mandarin), made fresh by hand immediately prior to being served in soup or stew with mutton or beef, chilies, tomatoes and vegetables. Mutton is also readily found grilled on skewers (yángròu chuàr, 羊肉串儿) and seasoned with chili and cumin, often served with flat bread (náng, 馕). Madang is a large circular cake made of a walnuts, raisins and dried fruit—often sold on the street, you can buy a thick slice of this chewy treat and work on it for days. Xinjiang is also justly famous for its melons, pomegranates and grapes, which thrive in the dry, hot climate. Check out the May First Night Market (Wǔyī Shì 五一夜市; 8pm to 1am daily) where foodstands shoulder up to one another selling an array of chuanr, soups and local delicacies.

Kazakhs, famous horsemen and nomads, are known for their hospitality. Kazakh recipes favor mutton and horsemeat, as well as dairy products, including delicious yogurt and kumiss, a drink made from fermented mare's milk. Narini or besmarak is a popular dish made with mutton or horsemeat and noodles or dumplings. Both Uyghur and Kazakhs drink tea, usually a strong dark tea mixed with milk and salt and often flavored with cinnamon, cardamom or other spices.

Chinese food—often Sichuanese—is available in all of Xinjiang's cities and towns in restaurants that generally cater to fairly recent immigrants or to Chinese tour groups. Western fast food has made inroads into the land of the Silk Road, though why anyone would take an overpriced Big Mac over a cheap but delicious fresh bowl of lamian is a question for the ages.

Urumqi shop

As you might expect from the biggest city in the old Silk Road lands of Xinjiang, shopping is good in Urumqi, whether it's carpets, knives and spices in a Uyghur bazaar or electronics and brand-name fashions from the east of China, you can generally find it somewhere.

Xīnhuá Běi Lù (新华北路) is a major modern shopping street, full of boutiques and small shops selling name-brand fashions (real and imitation). It's located in a primarily Han Chinese part of town and can be very convenient, however it lacks the local color of the Uyghur markets further south. For a true bazaar experience, hit the Erdaoqiao Market and neighboring International Bazaar in the southeastern part of the city. There you can strike great bargains on colorful, locally produced silks (the finer stuff is known as Atlas or Hotan silk), beautiful handmade wool carpets, carved jade, semi-precious gems, jewelry, knives, musical instruments, clothing, crafts and Uyghur music. For items of any value, bargain hard—you should be able to get prices down by at least 50% if not more.

Urumqi Nightlife

Xinjiang's resident Ughyur and Kazakhs have well-earned reputations for enjoying song, dance and festivities. The sounds of Central Asia are everywhere in Ughyur-dominated parts of Urumqi, blaring from street-side restaurants and boom boxes: insistent, upbeat complex rhythms propel songs passionately sung and played on percussion, string and wind instruments. A good night out on the town involves ample food and performances of song, dance and acrobatics. Of course, much of today's Urumqi has been settled by Han Chinese, so if you're experiencing a touch of Ughyur fatigue after weeks of touring Xinjiang, or perhaps you're going through C-pop withdrawal, you can easily find a range of entertainment options familiar to the east of China—KTV (karaoke), disco, bowling, billiards and nightclubs. And as international tourism and trade increase, Western-style clubs, bars and restaurants are growing in number.

Nightlife aside, it's the local heritage and history—Uyghur, Kazakh and Mongolian as well as Han—that make Urumqi unique. Visits to the city's museums and local festivals are great ways to get in touch with the area's rich and diverse cultural offerings. Festivals are a good time to catch such favorite regional pastimes as horse racing, wrestling and diaoyang, a sort of Central Asian rodeo-polo hybrid involving crackerjack horsemanship and a hapless goat.

Bars & Clubs

Jiefang Nan Lu (Jiěfàng Nán Lù, 解放南路) hosts a number of pubs, cafés and clubs for those seeking nightlife along Western-style and modern Chinese lines. Teahouses are a better place to find a more authentic local scene. Generally the Muslim Uyghur are quite liberal when it comes to alcohol, but never simply assume it's available or that it's all right to bring your own into a Uyghur establishment.

Performing Arts

Local song, dance and acrobatics performances can be found in marketplaces and restaurants in the southern part of town. The International Bazaar and Erdaoqiao Market and May First Night Market (Wǔyī Shì 五一夜市) are the best bets with nightly open air ethnic song and dance performances. Despite its modern transportation links, the remoteness of the world's most-landlocked city keeps most international touring acts from visiting Urumqi.

Museums & Galleries

The Xinjiang Museum is a must for anyone interested in the history of the region and the Silk Road. It features excellent exhibits on Uyghur, Mongolian and Kazakh history and culture as well as the unique oasis culture which has been witness to the meeting of East and West for centuries as traders braved the expanses of Asia. Fascinating evidence of the region's role as something of a Central Asian melting pot comes in the form of the famous Xinjiang mummies, some well over 2,000 years old and clearly displaying Indo-European features.

Festivals & Events

The Corban Festival, celebrated by Hui, Uyghur, Kazak, Uzbek, Tajik, Tatar, Kirgiz, Salar, Dongxiang, and Bonan peoples, is well worth catching if you're in town in late fall. The word "Corban" comes from Arabic and is related to the sacrifice of livestock; in Urumqi, people come from all over the region to sell and trade goods, feast, dance and watch horse races, diaoyang and wrestling matches. The Rouzi Aiti Festival (also known as Bairam) follows the Islamic holy day Ramadan. With its Farsi name, this festival offers further insight into the nature of Xinjiang as a cultural hybrid, and into the Islamic faith that connects it the west as much as centuries of Chinese influence connect it to Xi'an and Beijing in the east. In the spring, the Nuoluzi Festival puts a Turkic spin on the traditional Chinese Spring Festival. For these and other local festivals, you'll need to check dates as they are scheduled according to either the Islamic or Chinese lunar calendars.