TROJAN
SKINHEAD REGGAE BOX SET (TJETD003) -
Street fashion has always gone hand in hand with popular music,
particularly among working class British teenagers, who over the
years have used both look and sound as important unifying factors in
the creation of nationwide youth movements. Early examples of this
include the socalled Teddy Boys who became synonymous with Rock &
Roll in the 1950's and the Mods, who championed the sounds of Modern
Jazz and R&B early the following decade. But of all the cultural
styles for which music and fashion were of equal significance, none
have so far proved more enduring, not to say intimidating, than the
movement that simply became known as Skinhead.

The
development of the skinhead movement can be traced back to around
the latter half of 1967. By this time, the Mod scene had crumbled
and a new generation of British workingclass youngsters began to
embrace the prevailing sounds currently emanating from Jamaica.
While their middle class contemporaries espoused high ideals and
enjoyed getting high to the refrains of psychedelia, workingclass
teenagers in Britain's inner cities sought solace in a sound and
style that was almost the antithesis of Hippydom.

As
winter approached, the first signs of the new, distinctive look
began to take shape among the more style conscious in and around
London. Some began sporting 'College Boy' haircuts, with their high
or centre partings, while Levi jeans, navy blue 'windcheater'
jackets, Prussiancollared flyfronted macs, donkey jackets and army
surplus or 'Tuf' boots all became essential prerequisites for 'the
look'.

By
the following spring, the style had become further refined. Hair
length had gradually shortened and soon the 'crop' became standard
for any selfrespecting trendsetter. In addition, Ben Sherman
Oxfordweave shirts became fashionable, while jeans began to be worn
hitched up. Before long, turnups were introduced to emphasize the
footwear; of which the steel capped commandostyled Cherry Red boots
or Italian leather soled shoes proved most popular.

On
the music front there were also changes. Around the summer of 1968,
Jamaican music underwent a transformation, with the rhythms of
Rocksteady superseded by the more rapid and aggressive metre of
Reggae. This nononsense, uncompromising style perfectly suited the
attitude of the new young stylists and over the ensuing months, it
increasingly provided the focus for their growing movement. Soon
their buying power had propelled Reggae from the peripheries of the
UK music scene to its very heart and despite the reluctance of
national broadcasters, increasing numbers of Jamaican discs found
their way into the British Pop listings. The majority of these were
issued by Trojan, which since its launch in the summer of 1968 had
quickly dominated the rapidly growing Reggae market, releasing
singles right, left and centre on its parent label and numerous
subsidiaries.

Meanwhile, on the
fashion front, Dr Marten 'airwair' boots had become de rigueur,
along with the wearing of braces and 'jungle greens' (army
trousers), while for the first time, the term 'Skinhead' came into
usage by those outside the movement. As the look spread nationwide,
the fashion conscience originators continued to make further
refinements, introducing Levi stapress trousers, sleeveless
pullovers, Tonic suits (made from threeply iridescent mohair
material), Harrington jackets, trilby hats, crombie or 3/4 length
sheepskin overcoats, steeltipped brogues, smoothes, loafer and
Gibson shoes. In addition, the 'Number One Crop' with razor cut
parting became the hairstyle increasingly favoured among the young
men folk. Not to be outdone by their male counterparts, Skinhead
girls developed their own look, sporting feathercut hairstyles,
monkey boots, tonic jackets and skirts.

By the spring of 1970,
those at the cutting edge of the scene had made further refinements
to the style. 1/2 sleeve Ben Sherman shirts in gingham, large check
or pyjama stripe were introduced, while similar designs by rival
manufacturers, Brutus and Jaytex were also deemed acceptable. With
the coming of summer, Levi jackets in denim or corduroy began
appearing, with Polaroid sunglasses providing that extra bit of
class. The socalled 'Skinhead look' was now a nationwide phenomenon,
but its astonishing popularity ultimately resulted in its demise.
Clothing manufacturers had quickly caught on to the commercial
possibilities of the style and began making cheap, inferior clothing
that could, to the less discerning buyer, be passed of as the real
McCoy and with every fashionconscious workingclass teenagers jumping
on the bandwagon, older stylists increasingly became disillusioned.
They began growing their hair and revived the Prince of Wales
dogtooth checked trousers that had first been made popular during
the latter stages of the Mod era. Some even begin donning city gent
bowlers along with the customary umbrella, but it was all to prove
in vain. To add to their sense of dismay, the music that had bound
them together was beginning to change, with Trojan the main
culprits. In an attempt to boost sales even further and establish
Reggae as a mainstream genre, the company had increasingly sweetened
recordings with sophisticated arrangements, making the hardhitting
style of earlier releases very much a thing of the past.

By the time 1971
rolled around, only the naive or those too young to know better
attempted to maintain the Skinhead look and soon even they had moved
on. Reggae, of course remained, although Trojan's failed attempts
popularise the music, allied to a change in political climate,
ensured its alienation from most white, British teenagers.

Sadly, new generations
of white youths who have since revived the basic Skinhead appearance
have blackened the name of the original movement and as a result,
most people now associate the style with farright extremists. We
hope that this collection, featuring 50 stomping tracks that first
found favour among Britain's fashion conscious young lads and
lasses, goes some way to redressing the balance and set the record
straight once and for all.