Sign up to receive free email alerts when patent applications with chosen keywords are publishedSIGN UP

Abstract:

An aqueous hair moisturizing composition is provided. The composition
includes a cationic component, an oil containing about 70 percent or
greater unsaturated fatty acids with chain length of C18 or greater,
a phytosterol and a cellulosic polymer. Also provided is a method of
imparting extended moisturization to the hair including the steps of
applying to the hair in need of extended moisturization a composition
including a cationic component, an oil containing about 70 percent or
greater unsaturated fatty acids with chain length of C18 or greater,
a phytosterol and a cellulosic polymer, and retaining the composition in
contact with the hair for a time sufficient to impart extended
moisturization to the hair.

Claims:

1. A method of imparting extended moisturization, increased thickness
and/or improved elasticity to the hair or extended moisturization to the
skin, comprising (1) applying to the hair in need of extended
moisturization, increased thickness or improved elasticity, or to the
skin in need of extended moisturization, a composition comprising: a. a
cationic compound; b. an oil containing about 70% or greater unsaturated
fatty acids with chain length of C18 or greater; c. a phytosterol;
and d. a cellulosic polymer; wherein a, b, c and d are present in the
composition in a ratio of about 0.5-1:0.7-1.5:0.7-1.5:1-2; and (2)
retaining the composition in contact with the hair or the skin for a time
sufficient to impart extended moisturization to the hair or skin.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the cationic component, the oil, the
phytosterol and the cellulosic polymer are present in the composition in
a ratio of about 0.5-1:0.7-1.5:0.7-1.5:1-2.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the cationic component, the oil, the
phytosterol and the cellulosic polymer are present in the composition in
a ratio of about 0.8:1:1:1.5.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the cationic component is a cationic
quaternary compound.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein the cationic quaternary compound is a
quaternary ammonium salt, a salt of a fatty amine or an amidoamine salt.

8. The method of claim 5, wherein the amidoamine salt is selected from
the group consisting of stearmidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamiodpropyl
dimethylamine, and cocamidopropyl dimethylamine.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the cationic component is a cationic
polymer.

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the cationic polymer is a copolymer of
vinylpyrrolidone, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, a
copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide, an acrylic
or methacrylic homopolymer or copolymer or a cationic silicone.

11. The method of claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group
consisting of buriti oil, soybean oil, meadowfoam oil, safflower oil,
sesame oil and canola oil.

12. The method of claim 11, wherein the oil is buriti oil.

13. The method of claim 1, wherein the phytosterol comprises one or more
of campesterol, sitosterol, stigmasterol and ergosterol.

14. The method of claim 1, wherein the phytosterol is derived from
pomegranate.

15. The method of claim 1, wherein the cellulosic polymer comprises a
film forming alkyl cellulosic polymer, a cationic guar gum derivative or
a combination thereof.

20. The method of claim 15, which comprises a trialkyl ammonium
substituted epoxide of an alkyl cellulosic polymer.

21. The method of claim 20, wherein the cellulosic polymer is
polyquaternium 10.

22. The method of claim 1, wherein each of the cationic component, the
oil, the phytosterol and the cellulosic polymer is present in the
composition in an amount in the range of from about 0.05-20% by weight of
the total composition.

23. The method of claim 22, wherein the cationic component is present in
the composition in an amount in the range of from about 0.1-10%, the oil
is present in the composition in an amount in the range of from about
0.25-15%, the phytosterol is present in the composition in an amount in
the range of from about 0.25-2.5%, and the cellulosic polymer is present
in the range of from about 0.375-3.75%, wherein the amounts are based on
the total weight of the composition.

24. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises Palmamido
propyl trimonium methosulfate, buriti oil, pomegranate phytosterols and
polyquaternium 10, each present in the composition in an amount in the
range of about 0.05%-20% by weight of the total composition.

26. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is a cleansing,
conditioning or treatment product for the scalp, the hair or the skin.

Description:

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

[0001] This application is a divisional application of U.S. Ser. No.
12/467,450, filed May 18, 2009, and claims priority from U.S. Provisional
Patent Application Ser. No. 61/057,243 filed on May 30, 2008.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The present invention relates to personal care products. In
particular, the present invention is concerned with products employed to
condition the hair, the scalp and the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The buildup of sebum in the hair together with soil attracted to
the hair from the surrounding atmosphere causes the hair to have an
unattractive appearance. Shampooing the hair removes the dirt and sebum;
however, frequent shampooing can leave the hair tangled and therefore
difficult to comb. Additional undesirable effects of frequent shampooing
include dry hair and/or scalp. This can prove particularly problematic
for color treated, bleached, permed and/or otherwise damaged hair. To
solve these problems a wide variety of products has been developed for
use in conditioning the hair, including moisturizing components in
shampoos and post-shampoo hair conditioners. There is of course a large
number of different hair conditioning products currently on the market
providing adequate initial conditioning to the hair. Heretofore, however,
it has been difficult in the field to provide long lasting moisturization
to the hair, and to do so without leaving the hair with a greasy look or
feel.

[0004] The present invention meets the demand for hair conditioning
products which achieve long lasting moisturization whether delivered
through a cleansing or a conditioning system. Unexpectedly, the shampoos
developed according to the present invention effectively cleanse the hair
while providing copious foam and moisturization throughout the process.
Moreover, the products of the invention also meet the consumer demand for
products utilizing plant-based ingredients.

[0005] A common method of providing a conditioning benefit has been the
use of cationic surfactants such as cellulose derivatives, for example,
cationic quaternary ammonium compounds, such as polyquaternium compounds,
for example, Polyquaternium-10, which form polymer-surfactant complexes
or coacervates with surfactants, which precipitate on hair, making it
softer, smoother and easier to comb. Cationic surfactants are those in
which the surfactant activity resides in the positively charged cation
portion of the molecule. The cationic surfactants are therefore attracted
to the negatively charged hair surface and, because of their relatively
low solubility and high molecular weight, are thermodynamically driven to
leave the aqueous environment of the shampoo and deposit on the hair.
These characteristics make cationic surfactants such as quaternary
ammonium compounds particularly suited to the treatment of human hair.
Thus, many hair conditioning products are based on quaternary ammonium
compounds. The inventors have surprisingly discovered, however, that the
cationic ingredients in the compositions of the present invention act as
carriers in aqueous systems optimizing the other components to deliver
attributes through superior enhanced moisturization which effect a
moisturized feel, softness, brilliance, suppleness and smooth combing of
the hair, both wet and dry. It is contemplated that the present invention
may be used in cleansing, conditioning and treatment products for the
scalp, hair and body.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0006] The present invention describes an aqueous moisturizing treatment
for the hair, scalp or skin, comprising:

(2) retaining the composition in contact with the hair, scalp or skin for
a time sufficient to moisturize the hair; scalp or skin. Preferably a, c
and d are present in a ratio of about 0.5-1:0.7-1.5:0.7-1.5:1-2,
preferably in a ratio of about 0.8:1:1:1.5, based on the total weight of
the composition.

[0017] Typically, each of the four components is present in the
compositions at a level in the range of from about 0.05% to about 20%,
based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment
of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are
comprised of from about 0.1% to 10% of cationic quaternary ammonium
compound; from about 0.25% to about 2.5% of oil; from about 0.25% to
about 2.5% of sterol; and from about 0.375% to about 3.75% of cellulosic
polymer.

[0018] Aqueous carriers suitable for use in the compositions of the
present invention include water, such as deionized, distilled, tap,
spring, floral and the like; and water solutions of alkyl alcohols,
polyhydric alcohols; and preferably are used in amounts from about
20-99.8% in combination, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the compositions of
the invention may also be provided in a concentrated form, containing
little or no water. For use, the concentrate would be introduced into
water prior to application to the hair, scalp or skin. The concentrated
formulation would have the same ratio of components as for the aqueous
composition.

[0020] By use of the term "comprising", herein, it is intended that the
compositions of the invention may include any other cosmetically suitable
ingredients which do not adversely affect the end result to be achieved
by the product; that is, superior moisturization of the hair, scalp or
skin to which the composition is applied.

[0021] Additional features and advantages of the invention are set forth
in the description which follows. Advantages of the invention will be
realized and attained by the cosmetic hair conditioning compositions as
particularly pointed out in the description and the claims.

[0022] It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description
and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory and
are intended to provide further explanation of the invention as claimed.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0023] The FIGURE is a schematic representation of the synergistic
relationship among the components of the compositions of the present
invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0024] The moisturizing treatment compositions of the present invention
comprise four ingredients in addition to water.

[0025] The Cationic Component

[0026] The first ingredient in the present invention to be discussed is a
cationic component. The cationic component may be in the form of a
cationic compound or a cationic polymer. Preferably, the cationic
component is included in the compositions of the present invention as an
emulsifying agent and/or for its surfactant or conditioning properties.

[0027] The cationic compound may be a cationic quaternary compound such as
an ammonium salt or salts of fatty amines or amidoamines. Suitable
quaternary ammonium salts include those of the formula:

##STR00001##

wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4 are each independently a saturated or
unsaturated aliphatic group of 1 to 45 carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl,
or alkaryl group having 1 to 45 carbon atoms; and X is an anion selected
from halogen (such as fluorine, chlorine, iodide, bromine, etc.) acetate,
ammonia, phosphate, nitrate or methyl sulfate radicals. The aliphatic
groups may contain, in addition to carbon atoms, ether linkages as well
as amine or amido groups. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds may be
mono-long chain alkyl, di-long chain alkyl, tri-long chain alkyl, that
is, the term "long chain" meaning longer than methyl, or where R1=1. In
some cases one or more of R1, R2, R3, or R4 may comprise fatty radicals
obtained from one more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, for example,
having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, including but not limited to palm oil,
babassu oil, buriti oil, meadowfoam oil, canola oil, safflower oil,
sesame oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soybean oil, and the like.

[0029] Also suitable are amidoamine salts, which are the condensation
products of fatty acids with a polyfunctional amines, for example, those
having the formula RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2 where RCO is a fatty
(C6-45 saturated or unsaturated alkyl or acyl group) such as stearoyl,
behenyl, babassuoyl, palmitoyl, and R1 and R2 are methyl or
ethyl, and n is 2 or 3. Examples of such compounds include
stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine,
cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, and the like. Particularly preferred are
amidoamines derived from palm oil.

[0030] Also suitable are cationic salts of fatty primary, secondary, or
tertiary amines, wherein the substituted groups have 12 to 22 carbon
atoms. Examples of such amines include dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl
soyamine, stearylamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethyl stearamine,
and so on.

[0031] Cationic polymers may also be used as the cationic component.
Examples of cationic polymers include, but are not limited to:

[0032] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone,

[0033] (b) Homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, or copolymers
of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide. Such compounds are
sold under the tradename MERQUAT by Merck.

[0035] (d) cationic silicones. As used herein, the term "cationic
silicone" means any silicone polymer or oligomer having a silicon
backbone, including polysiloxanes, having a positive charge on the
silicone structure itself.

[0036] Examples of other cationic polymers that can be used in the
compositions of the invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,240,450
and 5,573,709, which are hereby incorporated by reference. The cationic
component is preferably a cationic quaternary ammonium compound.

[0037] The cationic component is used in the compositions of the present
invention in an amount in the range of from about 0.1% to about 5%,
preferably an amount in the range of from about 0.1% to about 2% and most
preferably in the amount of about 0.4%, by total weight of the
composition.

[0038] The Oil Component

[0039] The second ingredient in the present invention to be discussed is
oil. The oil is included in the compositions of the present invention as
an emollient. Preferred oils for use in the compositions of the present
invention are listed in Table 1. These oils contain about 70% or greater
unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of Cis or greater, and
include Buriti, soybean, meadowfoam, sesame, safflower, and canola
(rapeseed) oils. Particularly preferred for use in the compositions of
the present invention is Buriti or Maurita flexuosa fruit oil (available
from Croda) which is derived from the nut of the Amazon region Buriti
palm, and has traditionally been used as a food source and for
construction and weaving. Buriti oil is the richest source oil (richer
still than is carrot oil) in beta carotene and its breakdown product,
vitamin A, collectively referred to as carotenoids. Carotenoids are
important anti-oxidants which filter and absorb UV rays and neutralize
free radicals in the skin, thus protecting skin against sun related
damage. In skin care it has been reported to support the production of
collagen and elastin. Buriti oil is an excellent source of tocopherols
(Vitamin E) and oleic fatty acids and has a full profile of other
essential fatty acids (EFAs) which the body cannot manufacture and which
must be obtained from external sources, i.e., from foods. Surprisingly,
however, the inventors have discovered that oils containing about 70% or
greater unsaturated fatty acids of chain length greater than C18 can
be used in the present compositions to impart unexpectedly superior and
long-term softening and moisturization of the hair.

[0040] The oil component is used in the present invention in an amount in
the range of from about 0.25 to about 2.5%, preferably from about 0.3 to
about 1%, and most preferably in the amount of about 0.5% by total weight
of the composition.

[0041] It should be appreciated that a fruit oil is not the same as a
plant extract. While oils are pressed from the fruits or nuts of plants
and provide a moisturizing property, extracts are typically aqueous-based
and derived from roots, stems and leaves.

[0042] The Sterol Component

[0043] The third ingredient in the present invention to be discussed is
the sterol component. The sterol component is included in the
compositions of the present invention to provide a film forming and an
emulsifying function. Plant or phytosterols are suitable for use in the
compositions of the present invention. Useful plant phytosterols are
steroid alcohols naturally occurring in plants, and include Campesterol,
Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, and Ergosterol. The sterol component forms a
part of the internal water insoluble phase of the emulsion. Particularly
preferred phytosterols useful in the compositions of the present
invention are sterols derived from the pomegranate (Punica granatum)
sterols. Sterols are used in the present invention in an amount in the
range of from about 0.25% to about 2.5%, preferably in the amount of
about 0.3% to about 1%, and most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% by
total weight of the composition.

[0044] As will be shown herein, as identified by in vitro testing, it is
observed that the sterol component extends moisturization imparted to the
hair, skin and scalp by compositions according to the present invention
beyond that range of moisturization observed for compositions containing
fruit oils and butters; that is, when the sterol is replaced by water
soluble extracts, fruit oils or heavy butters, the extended
moisturization does not occur.

[0045] The Cellulosic Polymer Component

[0046] The fourth ingredient in the present invention to be discussed is
the cellulosic polymer component. The cellulosic polymer is present in
the compositions of the invention for its film forming capability. The
film forming functionality is important to wet combing and dry combing
and also acts as a sealant.

[0047] Nonlimiting examples of cellulosic polymers suitable for use in the
compositions of the invention include polysaccharide polymers, such as
cationic cellulose derivatives. Examples of the cellulosic polymers
useful in the compositions of the present invention are film forming
alkyl cellulosic polymers, such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose,
hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxylpropyl methyl cellulose; film forming
polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of the alkyl cellulosic polymers;
film forming natural polymers derived from guar bean, locust bean,
starches, carrageenan or xanthan gum, such as hydroxylpropyl guar
cellulose gum; and film forming naturally derived polymers comprising a
combination of the above. Preferred cellulosic polymers are the salts of
hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted
epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10 which
are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR
series of polymers with the most preferred being JR30M. Other preferred
cellulosic polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar
hydroxylpropyl trimonium chloride, specific examples of which include the
Jaguar series (preferably Jaguar C-35) commercially available from
Rhone-Poulenc Incorporated. Nonlimiting examples of suitable cellulosic
polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
8th edition, edited by Wenninger, Canterbery and McEwen, Jr. PhD, J.
D. (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington,
D.C. (2000)), which description is incorporated herein by reference. The
cellulosic polymer is used in the present compositions in an amount in
the range of from about 0.375% to about 3.75%, more preferably in the
range of about 0.5 to about 1.5%, and most preferably in the amount of
about 0.75%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Surprisingly, it has been discovered by the inventors that the
aqueous compositions prepared according to the present invention provide
stable, effective and versatile hair, scalp and skin treatment products
which impart long-lasting moisturization to the hair, scalp or skin.
Moisturization unexpectedly remains even after ten washings with
conventional shampoo products. This is surprising, since the extended
moisturization observed using the compositions of the present inventions
is not characteristic of any one of the individual components of the
compositions of the present invention. While not wishing to be bound by
any particular theory, it is thought by the present inventors that the
water insoluble oil and phytosterol components work synergistically to
provide intense and extended moisturization when suspended by the
cationic compound; that is, the cationic compound forms a film on the
hair, scalp or skin which locks the other components onto the hair, scalp
or skin surface creating a surprisingly long lasting moisturizing effect
which is observed through up to ten washings with conventional shampoo
products. Treatment of the hair, scalp or skin, using the compositions of
the present invention leaves a residual layer of film on the surface of
the hair, scalp or skin, creating a barrier which retains moisture. As
indicated in the schematic in FIG. 1, it is believed that the hydrophilic
emulsifier in the aqueous phase, i.e., the cationic compound, and the
hydrophobic agents in the oil phase, form micelles. This allows the
penetrating and conditioning effect. In addition, the external phase
(aqueous phase) contains cellulosic polymer which aids in suspension of
these ingredients while providing hair sealing benefits.

[0049] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one
or more optional components known or otherwise effective for use in hair
care or personal care products, such as those which enhance stability,
aesthetics and/or performance of the compositions, provided that the
optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the
essential component described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair
product stability, aesthetics or performance. Individual concentrations
of such optional components may range from about 0.5-55%, based on the
total weight of the compositions. Nonlimiting examples of optional
components for use in the present compositions include perfumes;
anti-dandruff agents; additional hair conditioning agents, such as
silicones, for example, linear siloxane polymers, such as dimethicones
and dimethiconol, and cyclic polysiloxanes, such as cyclopentasiloxane,
cyclomethicones; plant extracts; skin conditioning agents, such as
plant-derived oils, and esters, such as caprylic acid esters; dyes,
pearlescent aids, foam boosters, such as alkyl betaines; additional
surfactants or emulsifiers; nonionic cosurfactants; suspending or
thickening or viscosity adjusting agents, pH adjusting agents,
preservatives, proteins, skin active agents, sunscreens, and
anti-oxidants, for example, vitamins.

[0050] Suitable additional oils useful in the compositions of the present
invention include silicones, esters, vegetable oils, synthetic oils,
including but not limited to those set forth herein. The oils may be
volatile or nonvolatile, and are preferably in the form of a pourable
liquid at room temperature. The term "volatile" means that the oil has a
measurable vapor pressure or a vapor pressure of at least about 2 mm. of
mercury at 20° C. The term "nonvolatile" means that the oil has a
vapor pressure of less than about 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C.

[0054] Cyclic silicones are one type of volatile silicone that may be used
in the composition. Such silicones have the general formula:

##STR00002##

where n=3-6, preferably 4, 5, or 6.

[0055] Also suitable are linear volatile silicones, for example, those
having the general formula:

(CH3)-3-Si--O--[Si--(CH3)2-O]n-Si(CH3)3

where n=0, 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5, preferably 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4.

[0056] Cyclic and linear volatile silicones are available from various
commercial sources including Dow Corning Corporation and General
Electric. The Dow Corning linear volatile silicones are sold under the
tradenames Dow Corning 244, 245, 344, and 200 fluids. These fluids
include hexamethyldisiloxane (viscosity 0.65 centistokes (abbreviated
cst)), octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5
cst), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2 cst) and mixtures thereof, with all
viscosity measurements being at 25° C.

[0057] Suitable branched volatile silicones include alkyl trimethicones
such as methyl trimethicone, a branched volatile silicone having the
general formula:

##STR00003##

Methyl trimethicone may be purchased from Shin-Etsu Silicones under the
tradename TMF-1.5, having a viscosity of 1.5 centistokes at 25° C.

[0058] 2. Volatile Paraffinic Hydrocarbons

[0059] Also suitable as the volatile oils are various straight or branched
chain paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,
15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon
atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane, heptane, decane,
dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C8-20 isoparaffins as
disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are
hereby incorporated by reference. Preferred volatile paraffinic
hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of 70-225, preferably 160 to 190 and
a boiling point range of 30 to 320, preferably 60 to 260° C., and
a viscosity of less than about 10 cst. at 25° C. Such paraffinic
hydrocarbons are available from EXXON under the ISOPARS trademark, and
from the Permethyl Corporation. Suitable C12 isoparaffins are
manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under the tradename Permethyl 99A.
Various C16 isoparaffins commercially available, such as
isohexadecane (having the tradename Permethyl R), are also suitable.

[0060] B. Non-Volatile Oils

[0061] A variety of nonvolatile oils are also suitable for use in the
compositions of the invention. The nonvolatile oils generally have a
viscosity of greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at 25° C., and
may range in viscosity up to about 1,000,000 centipoise at 25° C.
Examples of nonvolatile oils include, but are not limited to:

[0062] 1. Esters

[0063] Suitable esters are mono-, di-, and triesters. The composition may
comprise one or more esters selected from the group, or mixtures thereof.

[0064] (a) Monoesters

[0065] Monoesters are defined as esters formed by the reaction of a
monocarboxylic acid having the formula R--COOH, wherein R is a straight
or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2 to 45 carbon
atoms, or phenyl; and an alcohol having the formula R--OH wherein R is a
straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2-30
carbon atoms, or phenyl. Both the alcohol and the acid may be substituted
with one or more hydroxyl groups. Either one or both of the acid or
alcohol may be a "fatty" acid or alcohol, and may have from about 6 to 30
carbon atoms, more preferably 12, 14, 16, 18, or 22 carbon atoms in
straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form. Examples of
monoester oils that may be used in the compositions of the invention
include hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecyl isostearate, cetyl
palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, isostearyl
isononanoate, stearyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl stearate,
isononyl isononanoate, and so on.

[0066] (b). Diesters

[0067] Suitable diesters are the reaction product of a dicarboxylic acid
and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol
having at least two substituted hydroxyl groups and a monocarboxylic
acid. The dicarboxylic acid may contain from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and
may be in the straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form.
The dicarboxylic acid may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl
groups. The aliphatic or aromatic alcohol may also contain 2 to 30 carbon
atoms, and may be in the straight or branched chain, saturated, or
unsaturated form. Preferably, one or more of the acid or alcohol is a
fatty acid or alcohol, i.e. contains 12-22 carbon atoms. The dicarboxylic
acid may also be an alpha hydroxy acid. The ester may be in the dimer or
trimer form. Examples of diester oils that may be used in the
compositions of the invention include diisotearyl malate, neopentyl
glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate,
dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl
dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl malate, dioctyl
malate, and so on.

[0068] (c). Triesters

[0069] Suitable triesters comprise the reaction product of a tricarboxylic
acid and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or alternatively the reaction
product of an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol having three or more
substituted hydroxyl groups with a monocarboxylic acid. As with the mono-
and diesters mentioned above, the acid and alcohol contain 2 to 30 carbon
atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain,
and may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, one
or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid or alcohol containing 12
to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of triesters include esters of arachidonic,
citric, or behenic acids, such as triarachidin, tributyl citrate,
triisostearyl citrate, tri C12-13 alkyl citrate, tricaprylin,
tricaprylyl citrate, tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl
behenate; or tridecyl cocoate, tridecyl isononanoate, and so on.

[0070] Esters suitable for use in the composition are further described in
the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Eleventh
Edition, 2006, under the classification of "Esters", the text of which is
hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

[0071] 2. Hydrocarbon Oils

[0072] It may be desirable to incorporate one or more nonvolatile
hydrocarbon oils into the composition. Suitable nonvolatile hydrocarbon
oils include paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins, preferably those having
greater than about 20 carbon atoms. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils
include C24-28 olefins, C30-45 olefins, C20-40
isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene,
hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene,
squalane, and mixtures thereof. In one preferred embodiment such
hydrocarbons have a molecular weight ranging from about 300 to 1000
Daltons.

[0077] Nonvolatile silicone oils, both water soluble and water insoluble,
are also suitable for use in the composition. Such silicones preferably
have a viscosity ranging from about greater than 5 to 800,000 cst,
preferably 20 to 200,000 cst at 25° C. Suitable water insoluble
silicones include amine functional silicones such as amodimethicone.

[0078] For example, such nonvolatile silicones may have the following
general formula:

##STR00004##

wherein R and R' are each independently C1-30 straight or branched
chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl, trialkylsiloxy,
and x and y are each independently 1-1,000,000; with the proviso that
there is at least one of either x or y, and A is alkyl siloxy endcap
unit. Preferred is where A is a methyl siloxy endcap unit; in particular
trimethylsiloxy, and R and R' are each independently a C1-30
straight or branched chain alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, more
preferably a C1-22 alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, most
preferably methyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, and resulting silicone is
dimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl
trimethicone, or trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. Other examples
include alkyl dimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone, and the like
wherein at least one R is a fatty alkyl (C12, C14, C16,
C18, C20, or C22), and the other R is methyl, and A is a
trimethylsiloxy endcap unit, provided such alkyl dimethicone is a
pourable liquid at room temperature. Phenyl trimethicone can be purchased
from Dow Corning Corporation under the tradename 556 Fluid.
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchased from Wacker-Chemie
under the tradename PDM-1000. Cetyl dimethicone, also referred to as a
liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow Corning as Fluid 2502, or
from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under the trade names Abil Wax
9801, or 9814.

[0079] It may also be desirable to include one or more humectants in the
composition. Examples of suitable humectants include glycols, sugars, and
the like. Suitable glycols are in monomeric or polymeric form and include
polyethylene and polypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-200, which are
polyethylene glycols having from 4 to 200 repeating ethylene oxide units;
as well as C1-6 alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene
glycol, pentylene glycol, and the like. Suitable sugars, some of which
are also polyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants. Examples of
such sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey,
inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol,
xylose, and so on. Also suitable is urea. Preferably, the humectant used
in the compositions of the invention is glycerin. Additional surfactants
suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are
anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic. The composition
may contain more than one surfactant. Generally the amount of the
surfactant may preferably range from about 0.001-50%, preferably about
0.005-45%, more preferably about 0.01-40% by weight of the total
composition. The surfactants include those set forth below.

[0080] 1. Nonionic Surfactants

A variety of nonionic surface active agents may be used in the claimed
compositions. Preferably, such surface active agents HLB
(hydrophile/lipophile balance) of about 12-20, more preferably about
13-16. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants include:

[0081] (a). Alkoxylated Alcohols

[0082] Suitable alkoxylated alcohols include ethers formed from the
reaction of an aliphatic, aromatic, or heterocyclic alcohol with an
alkylene oxide, generally ethylene or propylene oxide. Preferably, the
alcohol is an aliphatic alcohol, more preferably a fatty alcohol having
10-22 carbon atoms; and the alkylene oxide is ethylene oxide. Examples of
preferred alkoxylated alcohols include steareth, ceteth, ceteareth,
beheneth, and the like, having from 1 to 200 repeating ethylene oxide
units, as well as PEG derivatives of fatty acids such as PEG dioleate,
PEG distearate, PEG isostearate, and so on.

Also suitable are linear or branched ethers of polyglycerol having the
general formula:

R-(Gly)n-OH

wherein n is 1-10 and R is a straight or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkyl having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and Gly is the glycerol
residue. Examples of suitable polyglyceryl derivatives include
polyglyceryl decaoleates, polyglyceryl caprates, polyglyceryl
diisostearates, polyglyceryl distearates, polyglyceryl isopalmitates,
polyglyceryl laurates, and the like.

[0086] (d). Dialkyl Sulfoxides

Also suitable are long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short
chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from about 1 to 3 carbon atoms
and one long hydrophobic chain which may be an alkyl, alkenyl,
hydroxyalkyl, or ketoalkyl radical containing from about 8 to 20 carbon
atoms, from 0 to 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and 0 or 1 glyceryl moiety.

[0087] (e). Polyethylene Oxide Condensates of Alkyl Phenols

[0088] Suitable condensates include the condensation products of alkyl
phenols having an alkyl group of 6 to 20 carbon atoms with ethylene oxide
being present in amounts of about 10 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide per
mole of alkyl phenol.

[0089] (f). Condensation Product of Ethylene Diamine

Examples of suitable condensation products of ethylene diamine include
products of ethylene oxide with the reaction product of propylene oxide
and ethylene diamine.

[0090] (g). Long Chain Tertiary Amine Oxides

[0091] Preferred long chain tertiary amine oxides include those
corresponding to the general formula:

R1R2R3NO

wherein R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical
ranging from about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in length, from 0 to about 10
ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety and R2 and
R3 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to
about 3 carbon atoms.

[0092] (h). Long Chain Tertiary Phosphine Oxides

[0093] Suitable long chain tertiary phosphine oxides include those
corresponding to the general formula:

R1R2R3PO

wherein R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or monohydroxyalkyl radical
having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, from 0-10 ethylene oxide moieties and 0 or 1
glyceryl moiety, and R2 and R3 are each alkyl or
monohydroxyalkyl group containing from about 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0097] Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polysaccharides, or alkyl
glycosides, disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,716,418 and 5,756,079, both of
which are hereby incorporated by reference. These alkyl glycosides have
the general formula:

R1--O--(R2O)t-(G)n-H

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having
12 to 30 carbon atoms, R2 is a C2-4 alkylene, (G) is an
anhydroglucose unit, t is a number between 0 and 10, preferably 0 to 4,
and n is a number from about 1 to 15. Examples of such alkyl
polysaccharides are octyl, nonydecyl, undecyldodecyl, tridecyl,
tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, and octadecyl, di-, tri-,
tetra-, penta-, and hexaglucosides, galactosides, lactosides, glucoses,
fructosides, fructoses, and so on. Certain polyglycosides having the
above formula are sold by Henkel Corporation under the tradenames APG
300, APG 350, APG 500, APG 550, APG 625, or the tradename Planteren, e.g.
Planteren 300, 600, 1200, 2000, and so on.

[0098] 2. Anionic Surfactants

[0099] Also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are one
or more anionic surfactants.

[0100] (a). Alkyl Sulfates

[0101] Anionic surfactants include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates
generally having the formula ROSO3M and RO
(C2H4O)xSO3M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from
about 10 to 20 carbon atoms, x is 1 to about 10 and M is a water soluble
cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium, or triethanolamine cation.

[0102] Another type of anionic surfactant which may be used in the
compositions of the invention are water soluble salts of organic,
sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula:

R1SO3-M

wherein R1 is chosen from the group consisting of a straight or
branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about
8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to about 18 carbon atoms; and M
is a cation. Examples of such anionic surfactants are salts of organic
sulfuric acid reaction products of hydrocarbons such as n-paraffins
having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a sulfonating agent, such as sulfur
trioxide.

[0103] (b). Fatty Acids Esterified with Isethionic Acid

[0104] Also suitable as anionic surfactants are reaction products of fatty
acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium
hydroxide. The fatty acids may be derived from coconut oil or other
similar vegetable or animal derived oils that contain fatty acids.

[0105] (c). Succinates or Succinimates

[0106] In addition, succinate and succinimates are suitable anionic
surfactants. This class includes compounds such as disodium
N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; tetrasodium
N-(1,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; and esters of sodium
sulfosuccinic acid e.g. the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid,
the dioctyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and the like.

[0107] (d). Olefin Sulfonates

[0108] Other suitable anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates having
about 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The term "olefin sulfonate" means a compound
that can be produced by sulfonation of an alpha olefin by means of
uncomplexed sulfur trioxide, followed by neutralization of the acid
reaction mixture in conditions such that any sulfones which have been
formed in the reaction are hydrolyzed to give the corresponding
hydroxy-alkanesulfonates. The alpha-olefin from which the olefin
sulfonate is derived is a mono-olefin having about 12 to 24 carbon atoms,
preferably about 14 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0109] (e). Soaps

[0110] Other suitable anionic surfactants are the beta-alkoxy alkane
sulfonates or water soluble soaps thereof such as the salts of
C14-20 fatty acids, for example coconut and tallow based soaps.
Preferred salts are ammonium, potassium, and sodium salts. Soaps may also
form through the reaction of one or more fatty acids with mono-, di-, or
trialkanolamines.

[0111] (f). N-acyl Amino Acids

[0112] Still another class of anionic surfactants include N-acyl amino
acid surfactants and salts thereof (alkali, alkaline earth, and ammonium
salts) having the formula: wherein R1 is a C8-24 alkyl or
alkenyl radical, preferably C10-18; R2 is H, C1-4 alkyl,
phenyl, or --CH2COOM; R3 is CX2-- or C1-2 alkoxy,
wherein each X independently is H or a C1-6 alkyl or alkylester, n
is from 1 to 4, and M is H or a salt forming cation as described above.
Examples of such surfactants are the N-acyl sarcosinates, including
lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl sarcosinate, cocoyl sarcosinate, and
oleoyl sarcosinate, preferably in sodium or potassium forms.

[0113] 3. Cationic, Amphoteric, or Zwitterionic Surfactants

[0114] Certain types of amphoteric, zwitterionic, or cationic surfactants
may also be used as the amphiphilic surface active material. Descriptions
of such surfactants are set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 5,843,193, which is
hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

[0115] Amphoteric surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the
invention are generally described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary
or tertiary amities wherein one aliphatic radical is a straight or
branched chain alkyl of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and the other aliphatic
radical contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate,
phosphate, or phosphonate.

[0116] Suitable amphoteric surfactants may be imidazolinium compounds
having the general formula:

##STR00005##

wherein R1 is C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C12-16;
R2 is hydrogen or CH2CO2M, R3 is CH2CH2OH
or CH2CH2OCH2CHCOOM; R4 is hydrogen,
CH2CH2OH, or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM, Z is
CO2M or CH2CO2M, n is 2 or 3, preferably 2, M is hydrogen
or a cation such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or
alkanol ammonium cation. Examples of such materials are marketed under
the tradename MIRANOL, by Miranol, Inc.

[0117] Also suitable amphoteric surfactants are monocarboxylates or
dicarboxylates such as cocamphocarboxypropionate,
cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, cocamphocarboxyglycinate, and
cocoamphoacetate.

[0118] Other types of amphoteric surfactants include aminoalkanoates of
the formula R--NH(CH2)nCOOM or iminodialkanoates of the
formula: R--N[(CH2)mCOOM]2 and mixtures thereof; wherein n
and m are 1 to 4, R is C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M is hydrogen,
alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium. Examples
of such amphoteric surfactants include n-alkylaminopropionates and
n-alkyliminodipropionates, which are sold under the trade name MIRATAINE
by Miranol, Inc. or DERIPHAT by Henkel, for example N-lauryl-beta-amino
propionic acid, N-lauryl-beta-amino-dipropionic acid, or mixtures
thereof.

[0119] Zwitterionic surfactants are also suitable for use in the
compositions of the invention. The general formula for such surfactants
is:

##STR00006##

wherein R2 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of
from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide
moieties and 0 or 1 glyceryl moiety; Y is selected from the group
consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur atoms; R3 is an alkyl
or monohydroxyalkyl group containing about 1 to 3 carbon atoms; X is 1
when Y is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom;
R4 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon
atoms, and Z is a radical selected from the group consisting of
carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, and phosphate groups.

[0122] Tensile testing has long been used to evaluate the mechanical
properties of human hair. The effects of various ingredient compositions
(Table II) on the moisture content of human hair were analyzed.
Increasing the moisture content of keratin fibers has been shown to
decrease Young's modulus, tensile strength and work to break, while
increasing extension. Hair was treated with either a control formulation
(aqueous carrier only as described in the section entitled "Composition")
or an ingredient composition. Cross sectional area of the hair was
determined using a Mitutoyo Laser Micrometer. Hair was then stretched to
break point on a Dia-Stron MTT675 automated miniature tensile tester and
stress/strain curves were created. The resulting curves were then used to
evaluate the effects of the ingredient compositions on the mechanical
properties of human hair.

[0123] Stress/strain curves of human hair have three distinct regions: the
Hookean region, yield region and post yield region. In the Hookean
region, stress is approximately linear to strain. It is from the slope
that the Young's modulus or elastic modulus can be calculated. Young's
modulus is defined as follows:

E=ΔF*L/ΔL*A

where ΔF is the change in force induced by a change in length,
ΔL is the equilibrium length of the fiber, and A is the cross
sectional area. The greater the moisture content of the hair tested, the
less work is needed to extend the hair because it is softer.

[0124] In addition to Young's modulus and cross sectional area, other
parameters analyzed include the work to extend the hair to 15% extension,
stress to break (also called tensile strength or break load), percentage
extension to break and total work to break (the area under the
stress/strain curve). It is noted that wet hair is less strong and
therefore less force is required to break it (reduced break load).
Moisturized hair also breaks more easily as a result of the retention of
water.

[0125] The testing conducted to evaluate the effects of the moisturizing
ingredient compositions is divided into three parts: Part I was conducted
to find a composition of ingredients that would effectively deliver
moisture to human hair (Table III), Part II was conducted to find a
cellulosic polymer that would deliver an additional moisture benefit to
the hair (Table Va). In Part III of testing the longevity of the
moisturizing affected afforded to the hair by the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex was assessed.

Preparation of Test Hair

[0126] Evidence suggests that tensile properties of hair are chiefly
cortex properties; therefore, to magnify the effects of the ingredient
compositions the hair used for testing was damaged to increase its
porosity (i.e. separate the scales of the cuticle). It was theorized that
an increase in hair porosity should allow for the ingredient compositions
to reach the cortex more readily thus magnifying the results of the
tensile testing (as compared to testing on undamaged hair).

[0127] A 75 mm wide wax-bound tress of standard brown European hair was
chemically damaged using a commercial bleach and perm. The hair tress was
first bleached using a commercial bleach for 30 minutes at 37° C.
The hair swatch was then rinsed for 1 minute with 37° C. tap
water. Following bleaching, the hair swatch was treated with a commercial
alkaline perm solution which contains 9% sodium thioglycolate. Dwell time
for the perm solution was 8 minutes after which the tress was rinsed for
10 minutes with 37° C. tap water. The tress was then allowed to
air-neutralize for 10 minutes and then treated with a commercial
neutralizer. The tress was processed for an additional 5 minutes. After
processing the tress was rinsed for 5 minutes with 37° C. tap
water and allowed to air dry.

Preparation of Aqueous Carrier

[0128] The aqueous based carrier used for testing consisted of a
formulation containing 2.0% Cetyl alcohols, 2.0% Glyceryl
Stearate/PEG-100, 2.0% Glycerin, and 0.3% Diazolidinyl Urea. The aqueous
carrier also served as the control formulation for the tensile testing.

Preparation of Ingredient Compositions

[0129] For each ingredient composition (Tables II, Vb, and VII), the
materials were combined in a beaker of appropriate size and heated to
80° C. while being stirred with moderate agitation to ensure a
uniform batch. The heat was then turned off and the solution was allowed
to return to room temperature while be stirred with moderate agitation.

Treating Hair

[0130] For each test conducted (Tables III, VI and IX), two tresses of
approximately 7 mm were cut from the larger tress which had been
chemically damaged in the procedure above. The tresses were labeled tress
1 and tress 2. A control formulation (aqueous carrier only) was applied
to tress 1. The control treatment was applied in excess to tress 1 to
ensure saturation. The tress was combed with a plastic comb, placed in a
plastic weigh boat and put in an oven at 50° C. for 30 minutes.
After removal from the oven, the tress was rinsed for one minute with
37° C. tap water and then allowed to air dry overnight. Next, the
assigned ingredient composition was applied in excess to tress 2 to
ensure saturation. The tress was combed with a plastic comb, placed in a
plastic weigh boat and put in an oven at 50° C. for 30 minutes.
After removal from the oven, the tress was rinsed for one minute with
37° C. tap water and then allowed to air dry overnight.

[0131] For longevity testing (Table IX), hair was first treated as
outlined above. Next, shampoo was applied as follows: shampoo was applied
in excess to wet tresses to ensure saturation, the shampoo was then
massaged into the tress for 30 seconds then rinsed for 1 minute with
37° C. tap water and then allowed to air dry. This procedure was
then repeated nine times for a total of ten washes.

[0132] For tresses treated with 5% sodium lauryl sulfate (Table IX), hair
was dunked into a beaker containing the sodium lauryl sulfate solution 30
times (1 dunk per second) and then rinsed for 1 minute with 37 C tap
water and then allowed to air dry. This procedure was then repeated nine
times for a total of ten washes. Tensile testing was conducted after five
washes and again after ten washes.

Tensile Testing Procedure

[0133] Fifty strands of hair were randomly selected from tress 1 (treated
with control) and hand-threaded; root to tip, through brass fasteners.
The fasteners were then secured using a press. The samples were labeled
1-50. Fifty strands of hair were randomly selected from tress 2 (treated
with assigned ingredient composition) and hand-threaded; root to tip
through brass fasteners. The fasteners were then secured using a press.
The samples from tress 2 were labeled 51-100. Next, the cross sectional
areas of the samples (1-100) were measured with the Laser Scan Micrometer
(18m-6100 and LSM 500H) MTT 765. Five slices (scans) were taken of each
sample to determine the mean cross-sectional area. The cross sectional
area of the hair was later incorporated into the tensile testing data.

[0134] Next, samples were then placed in the 100 sample cassette of the
Tensile Tester MTT 675 (675.04.02.001). Samples were loaded with their
root end towards the inside of the cassette. The samples were than placed
in an electro-tech systems, inc. Controlled Environment Chamber Model 518
at 65% relative humidity overnight to equalize. The hair fibers were then
extended to the break point at a rate of extension of 12.5 mm/min.

[0135] Data was then analyzed using UvWin software and exported to
Microsoft Excel for further analysis. Statistical significance of all
tests were determined using a two-tailed t-test (α=0.05).

[0136] The procedure outlined above was repeated for each tensile test as
outlined in Table III.

[0138] In test 1 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition A (Table II). No
significant difference in cross sectional area or total work was found
between the control and the hair treated with Ingredient Composition A.
Additionally, work at 15% extension, break load and Young's modulus
increased significantly while break extension decreased. Results of test
1 are shown in Table IV. These results were not indicative of an increase
in keratin moisture content; therefore it was decided to not proceed with
further testing of Ingredient Composition A.

Test 2

[0139] In test 2 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition B (Table II). No
significant difference in cross sectional area, Young's modulus, work at
15% extension, break extension or total work was found when comparing the
control to the hair treated with Ingredient Composition B. Break load
increased significantly. Results for test 2 are shown in Table IV. These
results were not indicative of an increase in keratin moisture content;
therefore it was decided to not proceed with further testing of
Ingredient Composition B.

Test 3

[0140] In test 3 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition C (Table II). No
significant difference in cross sectional area, break extension, work at
15% extension or total work was found between the control and the hair
treated with Ingredient Composition C. Break load and Young's modulus
increased significantly. Results for test 3 are shown in Table IV. These
results were not indicative of an increase in keratin moisture content;
therefore it was decided to not proceed with further testing of
Ingredient Composition C.

Test 4

[0141] In test 4 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition D (Table II). No
significant difference in cross sectional area, work at 15% extension,
break extension or total work was found between the control and the hair
treated with Ingredient Composition D. Break load and Young's modulus
increased significantly. Results for test 4 are shown in Table IV. These
results were not indicative of an increase in keratin moisture content;
therefore it was decided to not proceed with further testing of
Ingredient Composition D.

Test 5

[0142] In test 5 (Table III) hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition E (Table II). No
significant difference was found in work at 15% extension, work at, break
extension or total work when comparing the control to the hair treated
with Ingredient Composition E. Cross sectional area increased
significantly while Young's modulus and break load decreased
significantly. Results for test 5 are shown in Table IV. Although these
results could be indicative of moisturizing properties, due to problems
obtaining consistent samples of barley (Hordeum distichon) and tomato
(Solanum Lycopersicum) fruit/leaf/stem extract complex, it was decided to
pursue other potential Ingredient Compositions.

Test 6

[0143] In test 6 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition F (Table II). No
significant difference was found in cross section area, work at 15%
extension or total work when comparing the control to the hair treated
with Ingredient Composition F. Break load and Young's modulus increased
significantly while break extension decreased significantly. Results for
test 6 are shown in Table IV. These results were not indicative of an
increase in keratin moisture content; therefore it was decided to not
proceed with further testing of Ingredient Composition F.

Test 7

[0144] In test 7 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition G (Table II). No
significant difference was found in cross section area, work at 15%
extension, break extension, break load, Young's modulus, or total work
when comparing the control to the hair treated with Ingredient
Composition G. Results for test 7 are shown in Table IV. These results
were not indicative of an increase in keratin moisture content; therefore
it was decided to not proceed with further testing of Ingredient
Composition G.

Test 8

[0145] For test 8 (Table III), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with Ingredient Composition H (Table II). No
significant difference was found for cross sectional area, work at 15%
extension, break extension, break load or total work when comparing the
control to the hair treated with Ingredient Composition H. However,
Young's modulus decreased significantly, indicating that Ingredient
Composition H has moisturizing properties. Results for test 8 are shown
in Table IV. Therefore, it was decided to conduct further testing on
Composition H.

[0147] In test 9 (Table Vb), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with 0.75% Jaguar C135 cellulosic polymer (Table
Va). No significant difference was found in cross section area, work at
15% extension or total work when comparing the control to the hair
treated with Jaguar C135 cellulosic polymer. Break load and Young's
modulus increased significantly while break extension decreased
significantly. The results for test 9 are shown in Table VIII. These
results were not indicative of an increase in keratin moisture content;
therefore it was decided to not proceed with further testing of Jaguar
C135 cellulosic polymer.

Test 10

[0148] In test 10 (Table Vb), hair treated with a control formulation was
compared to hair treated with 0.75% JR-30M cellulosic polymer (Table Va).
No significant difference was found in cross section area when comparing
the control to the hair treated with JR-30M cellulosic polymer. There was
a significant increase in break extension and significant decrease in
break load, Young's modulus, total work and work at 15% extension. The
results for test 10 are shown in Table VIII. As a significant decrease in
Young's modulus indicates that JR-30M cellulosic polymer may have
moisturizing properties, it was decided to conduct further testing with
this cellulosic polymer.

Test 11

[0149] In Test 11 (Tables VI, VII), an Ultra Moisturizing Complex was
created by combining Ingredient Composition H, which was indicated as
having moisturizing properties in test 8, with the cellulosic polymer
JR30M, which was indicated as having moisturizing properties in test 10.
Hair treated with a control formulation was compared to hair treated with
this Ultra Moisturizing Complex. No significant difference was found for
cross sectional area, work at 15% extension, and break extension, break
load or total work when comparing the control to the hair treated with
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex). Young's modulus decreased significantly.
Results for test 11 are shown in Table VIII. As a significant decrease in
Young's modulus is indicative of moisturizing properties attributable to
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex, it was decided to conduct further testing
to determine the longevity of the moisturizing effect afforded to the
hair by the Ultra Moisturizing Complex.

[0151] For test 12 and 13 (Table IX), the longevity of the moisturizing
effect afforded to the hair by the Ultra Moisturizing Complex (Table VII)
was assessed. In this test, three samples were analyzed: (1) hair treated
with a control formulation, (2) hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex and (3) hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex and then
shampooed ten times with a basic retail shampoo (Prell Shampoo for All
Hair Types). The purpose of these tests is to show that the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex can provide extended moisturization to the hair;
that is, moisture that will last through multiple washes with a standard
shampoo.

[0152] No significant difference was found for work at 15% extension,
total work or break extension when comparing the control to the hair
treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex and washed ten times with a
standard shampoo. Young's modulus and break load decreased significantly
while cross sectional area decreased significantly. These results
indicate that after ten shampoos with a standard shampoo the moisture
afforded to the hair by Ultra Moisturizing Complex still lingers. Test
results for test 12 are shown in Table X.

[0153] The hair treated with the Ultra Moisture Complex and washed ten
times with a basic shampoo was then compared to hair treated with the
Ultra Moisture Complex alone to show that the effects of the Ultra
Moisture Complex were not significantly diminished after ten shampoos. No
significant difference was found for work at 15% extension, total work,
break load, Young's modulus or break extension when comparing the control
to the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex and washed ten
times with a standard shampoo. Cross sectional area increased
significantly indicating that the multiple shampoos may have caused the
hair to swell. Test results for test 13 are shown in Table X.

Test 14

[0154] In test 14 (Table IX), the longevity of the moisturizing effect
afforded to the hair by the Ultra Moisture Complex (Table VII) was
assessed. In this test, hair was treated with a control formulation and
compared to hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex and then
shampooed ten times with a 5% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate. The
purpose of these tests is to observe whether the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex can provide impart moisture to the hair which will last through
multiple shampoos. However sodium lauryl sulfate could be considered
"harsher" than a typically daily-use shampoo.

[0155] No significant difference was found for cross sectional area, work
at 15% extension, break load, total work or Young's modulus when
comparing the control to the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex and washed ten times with a 5% sodium lauryl sulfate. Break
extension decrease significantly. These results indicate that after 10
shampoos with 5% sodium lauryl sulfate the moisture afforded to the hair
by Ultra Moisturizing Complex does not linger. It was therefore decided
to reduce the number of sodium lauryl sulfate washes from ten to five and
repeat the testing. Results for test 14 are shown in Table X.

Test 15

[0156] In test 15 (Table IX), the longevity of the moisturizing effect
afforded to the hair by the Ultra Moisture Complex (Table VII) was
assessed. In this test, hair was treated with a control formulation and
compared to hair which was treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
and then shampooed five times with a 5% solution of sodium lauryl
sulfate. The purpose of this test is to observe whether the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex can provide moisture to the hair that will last
through multiple shampoos.

[0157] No significant difference was found for cross sectional area, work
at 15% extension, break load, total work or break extension when
comparing the control to the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex and washed five times with a 5% sodium lauryl sulfate. Young's
modulus decreased significantly. These results indicate that after five
shampoos with 5% sodium lauryl sulfate the moisture afforded to the hair
by Ultra Moisturizing Complex lingers which indicates extending
moisturizing properties. Results for test 15 are shown in Table X.

[0159] The following illustrates a composition of the invention.
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Procedure: Combine Phase A ingredients in the main tank at 25 C while
mixing. When uniform, begin heating to 85 C. Add Phase B ingredients one
by one when the batch reaches 85 C. Mix for 30 min and begin cooling to
27 C. When batch reaches 45 C, add Phase C ingredients individually while
mixing.

[0161] The following illustrates a composition of the invention.
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Procedure: Add Phase A ingredients to main tank at 25 C, mix until
homogenous and begin heating to 82 C. In a separate vessel, add Phase B
ingredients and begin heating to 82 C while mixing. When both phases are
at 82 C, add Phase B to Phase A and mix for 30 min. Begin cooling to 27
C. When batch reaches 45 C, add Phase C ingredients one by one, while
mixing.

[0163] The following illustrates a composition of the invention.
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Procedure: Add Phase A ingredients to main tank at 25 C, mix until
homogenous and begin heating to 80 C. In a separate vessel, add Phase B
ingredients and begin heating to 80 C while mixing. When both phases are
at 80 C, add Phase B to Phase A and mix for 30 min. Begin cooling to 27
C. When batch reaches 45 C, add Phase C ingredients one by one, while
mixing.

Example 8

Ultra Moisturizing Complex Shampoo Tensile and Dimensional Analysis

[0164] The purpose of this study was to explore the effects of the Ultra
Moisturizing Shampoo on the tensile and dimensional properties of human
hair.

Procedure

Part I: Tensile Analysis

Damaging Hair

[0165] The effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo were
evaluated using level 2 mixed source hair. To induce chemical damage the
hair was bleached and penned. The bleach was prepared by weighing 40
volume peroxide developer and hair bleaching powder into a hair color
bowl in a 2:1 ratio. The bleach mixture was blended thoroughly with a
hair color brush and applied in excess to the hair using the fanning
method. After the hair was coated completely and evenly with the bleach,
it was set in weigh boats and placed in a 37° C. oven for 30
minutes. Once the hair had processed for 30 minutes, it was rinsed with
37° C. tap water for 1 minute and washed with 5% SLS to remove any
excess bleach. Following this procedure, the hair was treated with
permanent wave solution alkaline perm solution which contains 9% sodium
thioglycolate. The perm solution was left on the hair to process for 8
minutes and then rinsed out for 10 minutes with 37° C. tap water.
The hair was allowed to air-neutralize for 10 minutes and then treated
with the permanent wave peroxide neutralizer. The neutralizer was left on
the hair for 5 minutes at room temperature in accordance with package
instructions. After processing the tresses were rinsed for 5 minutes with
37° C. tap water and allowed to air dry.

Treating the Hair

[0166] Three tresses of damaged level 2 mixed source hair were assigned
the following treatments:

[0170] Tress 1 was rinsed with tap water, massaged for 30 seconds then
rinsed with 37° C. tap water for 1 minute. This was done to ensure
that all three tresses received equal water exposure and mechanical
manipulation. Tress 2 was rinsed with tap water, saturated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo, massaged for 30 seconds then rinsed with
37° C. tap water for 1 minute. Tress 3 was rinsed with tap water,
saturated with the Sap Moss Asia shampoo, massaged for 30 seconds then
rinsed with 37° C. tap water for 1 minute. All three tresses were
then allowed to air dry.

[0172] Fifty strands of hair were randomly selected from tress 1, tress 2,
and tress 3 and were hand-threaded; root to tip, through brass crimps.
The crimps were then secured using a crimping press and were measured
with the laser scan micrometer. Five sets of dimensions were collected
from each sample to determine the mean cross sectional area. After
collecting dimensional data from the samples, the crimps were loaded with
their root end towards the center of the tensile tester 100 slot
cassette. The cassette with the crimps was then placed in the controlled
environment chamber at 65% relative humidity overnight to equalize. The
tensile parameters of the crimps were then measured with the tensile
tester. Data was normalized to include the cross sectional area of the
hair as determined from the laser scan micrometer and also examined prior
to normalization when necessary. The tensile data was then analyzed using
UvWin software and exported to Microsoft Excel for further analysis.
Statistical significance of all comparisons were determined using a
two-tailed t-test (α=0.05).

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity Retest

[0173] The procedure outlined in "Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative
Humidity" was repeated for Tress 1 and Tress 2.

Tensile Analysis at 100% Relative Humidity

[0174] The procedure is the same as outlined for 65% Relative Humidity for
Tress 1 and Tress 2 except that after the crimps were loaded in the
cassette, the samples were covered with reverse osmosis water and allowed
to sit for a minimum of 10 minutes to ensure their saturation.

Tensile Analysis at 85% Relative Humidity

[0175] The procedure is the same as outlined for 65% Relative Humidity for
Tress 1 and Tress 2 except that after the crimps were loaded in the
cassette, the cassette with the crimps was placed in the controlled
environment chamber at 85% relative humidity overnight to equalize.

Part II: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0176] The dimensional data collected with the laser scan micrometer in
Part I was compiled for all three tensile analyses. The data was analyzed
using UvWin software and exported to Microsoft excel for further
analysis. Statistical significance was determined using a two-tailed
t-test (α=0.05).

Part III: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0177] The break extension data collected with the tensile tester in Part
I was compiled for all three tensile analyses. The data was analyzed
using UvWin software and exported to Microsoft excel for further
analysis. Statistical significance was determined using a two-tailed
t-test (α=0.05).

Results

[0178] All the data collected for this study was analyzed using the paired
two-tailed t-test in the data analysis tools of Microsoft Excel. The
t-tests were performed utilizing the "Two-sample Assuming Equal Variance"
option.

[0180] (sample-control)/control×100. For all Tables, "sample" refers
to the treatment with Ultra Moisturizing Complex. For Tables XIV and XV,
"control" means "water-only control".

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0181] When comparing the water treated control hair to the hair treated
with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo, there was no significant
difference in the cross sectional area, Young's modulus, break extension,
break load, or total work between the two tresses. Results are shown in
Table XIV.

[0182] Upon analysis of the retest conducted at 65% relative humidity,
there was again no significant difference in cross sectional area, break
extension, break load, or total work between the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo treated hair and the control. There was a significant
decrease in Young's modulus for the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo.

[0183] When comparing the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo to the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia shampoo, there was no
significant difference break extension or total work. There was a
significant decrease in Young's modulus for the hair treated with the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo. There was a significant increase in
the cross sectional area of the hair for the Buriti Moist treated hair
when compared to the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia shampoo. A
significant difference in the cross sectional area prevented the
incorporation of the dimensional data into the normalized break load
calculation. As a result, the non-normalized break load was calculated.
Upon analysis, there was no significant difference in the non-normalized
break load between the two treatments. Results are shown in Table XV.

Tensile Analysis at 100% Relative Humidity

[0184] When comparing the water treated control hair to the hair treated
with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo, there was no significant
difference in the cross sectional area, Young's modulus, break load, or
total work between the two tresses. There was a significant increase in
break extension for the tress treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo. Results are shown in Table XIV.

Tensile Analysis at 85% Relative Humidity

[0185] When comparing the control hair to the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo, there was no significant difference in the
cross sectional area, break load, or total work between the two tresses.
There was a significant decrease in Young's modulus and a significant
increase in break extension for the tress treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo. Results are shown in Table XIV.

[0186] Part II: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0187] When comparing the complied data from the tensile analyses in Part
I for the water treatment control hair to the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo, there was a significant increase in the
cross sectional area and diameter for the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo.

[0188] In comparison to the Sap Moss Asia shampoo treated hair, there was
a significant increase in the cross sectional area for the hair treated
with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo. There was no significant
difference in diameter between the two samples. Results are shown in
Table XVI.

[0189] Part III: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0190] When analyzing the compiled break extension data from the 100%,
85%, and 65% relative humidity tensile analyses for the hair treated with
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo and the control hair, there was a
significant increase (4.19% change from the control; results not shown)
in break extension for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo.

[0192] When tested at 65% relative humidity, there was no significant
difference in cross sectional area, Young's modulus, break extension,
break load, or total work between the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo and the water treated control. This lack of
significant difference in any of the parameters indicates that the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo may not affect the tensile properties of
human hair. Since previous tensile analysis of the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo indicated moisturization properties, a retest was
performed at 65% relative humidity. Upon analysis of the retest results,
there was again no significant difference in cross sectional area, break
extension, break load, or total work between the samples. There was,
however a significant decrease in Young's modulus for the hair treated
with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo in comparison to the
untreated control. This decrease in Young's modulus supports previous
results and indicates that the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo
significantly moisturizes human hair.

[0193] When analyzing the results obtained from the 100% relative humidity
tensile analysis, there was no significant difference in cross sectional
area, Young's modulus, break load, or total work between the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo treated hair and the untreated control.
There was a significant increase in the break extension for the hair
treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo. An increase in break
extension indicates that the elasticity of the hair has increased and if
often seen in hair that has been moisturized. To further explore the
effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo on the tensile
properties of human hair a tensile analysis was conducted at 85% relative
humidity.

[0194] Tensile analysis conducted at 85% relative humidity is usually done
to assess the effects of leave-on products. Although the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex shampoo was not applied as a leave on product,
collecting tensile data from a third humidity can be helpful in further
understanding the effects of a treatment. When analyzing the data, there
was no significant difference in cross sectional area, break load, or
total work. There was again a significant decrease in Young's modulus and
an increase in break extension, further supporting that the hair was
moisturized and the elasticity has increased.

[0195] To determine how the effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo compare to the effects of Sap Moss Asia shampoo on the mechanical
properties of human hair, a tensile analysis was performed at 65%
relative humidity. Upon analysis, there was a significant increase in
cross sectional area for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo. An increase in cross sectional area could be attributed
to swelling of the hair due to increased moisture content, coating of the
cuticle, or unpredicted variances in the hair used for testing. However,
since testing has shown that the shampoo moisturizes, in this study the
most likely reason for the increase in cross sectional area is swelling
of the hair fiber due to an increase in moisture. This significant
increase in the cross sectional area prevented the incorporation of the
dimensional data into the normalized break load calculation. As a result,
the non-normalized break load was calculated. Upon analysis of the
results, there was no significant difference in the non-normalized break
load between the treatments. There was a significant decrease in Young's
modulus for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex,
indicating that the hair was moisturized as compared to the hair treated
with the Sap Moss Asia shampoo. There was no significant difference in
break extension or total work between the two treatments.

[0196] Overall, the tensile analysis in this study indicates that the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo significantly moisturizes human hair
and also moisturizes hair significantly more that the Sap Moss Asia
shampoo formulation.

[0197] Part II: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0198] When analyzing the cross sectional area and diameter of the
untreated control and the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo, there was a significant increase in cross sectional area
by an average of 4.2% and in the diameter of the hair by an average of
1.8% for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo. An
increase in cross sectional area may be due to deposits on the cuticle or
swelling of the hair in response to the increased moisture content.
Improper calibration or unpredicted variances in the hair strands are
less likely responsible for the increase in hair dimensions since the
data was combined from three separate tensile analyses, helping to ensure
a low variance. It was noted that scanning electron microscopy could be
performed to determine whether the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo is
depositing on the cuticle. When comparing the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo treated hair to the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia shampoo
collected in Part I, there was an increase in the cross sectional area by
an average of 5.5% for the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo treated
hair. There was an increase in diameter by an average of 2.2% for the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex treated hair; however this increase was not
significant.

[0199] Overall, the results of the dimensional data analysis indicate that
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo significantly increases the cross
sectional area and diameter of human hair. The Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo also significantly increases the cross sectional area of the hair
more than the Sap Moss Asia shampoo. By increasing the dimensions of the
hair fiber, the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo significantly thickens
human hair.

[0200] Part III: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0201] The break extension data was compiled for all three tensile
analyses from Part I and then analyzed. Upon analysis, the break
extension for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo significantly increased by an average of 4.20% when compared to
the control. This increase indicates that the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
shampoo significantly increases the elasticity of human hair.

[0202] The purpose of this study was to explore the effects of the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen, consisting of the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo and conditioner, on the tensile and dimensional
properties of human hair.

Procedure

Damaging Hair

[0203] The effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen were
evaluated using level 2 mixed source hair. To induce damage the hair was
bleached and permed. The bleach was prepared by weighing out 40 volume
peroxide developer and hair bleaching powder into a hair color bowl in a
2:1 ratio. The bleach mixture was blended thoroughly with a hair color
brush and applied in excess to the hair using the fanning method. After
the hair was coated completely and evenly with the bleach, it was set in
weigh boats and placed in a 37° C. oven for 30 minutes. Once the
hair had processed for 30 minutes, it was rinsed with 37° C. tap
water for 1 minute and washed with Scalp Benefits shampoo (Aveda) to
remove any excess bleach. Following this procedure, the hair was treated
with permanent wave alkaline perm solution which contains 9% sodium
thioglycolate. The perm solution was left on the hair to process for 8
minutes and then rinsed out for 10 minutes with 37° C. tap water.
The hair was allowed to air-neutralize for 10 minutes and then treated
with the permanent wave neutralizer. The neutralizer was left on the hair
for 5 minutes at room temperature in accordance with package
instructions. After processing the tresses were rinsed for 5 minutes with
37° C. tap water and allowed to air dry.

Part I: Ultra Moisturizing Complex Regimen Tensile Analysis

Treating Hair

[0204] Two approximately 7 mm wide tresses of damaged level 2 mixed source
hair were assigned the following treatments:

[0205] Tress 1: Water only-control

[0206] Tress 2: Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen

[0207] Tress 1 was rinsed with tap water, massaged for 30 seconds, and
then rinsed with 37° C. tap water for 1 minute, massaged for 30
seconds, then rinsed again for 1 minute with 37° C. tap water and
allowed to air dry. This was done to ensure that both tresses received
equal water exposure and mechanical manipulation. Tress 2 was rinsed with
tap water, saturated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo,
massaged for 30 seconds, and then rinsed with 37° C. tap water for
1 minute. The tress was then saturated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex conditioner, massaged for 30 seconds, rinsed for 1 minute with
37° C. tap water, and allowed to air dry.

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0208] Fifty strands of hair were randomly selected from each of the
tresses and were hand-threaded; root to tip, through brass crimps. The
crimps were then secured using a crimping press and were measured with
the laser scan micrometer. Five sets of dimensions were collected from
each sample to determine the mean cross sectional area. After collecting
dimensional data from the samples, the crimps were loaded with their root
end towards the center of the tensile tester 100 slot cassette. The
cassette with the crimps was then placed in the controlled environment
chamber at 65% relative humidity overnight to equalize. The tensile
parameters of the crimps were then measured with the tensile tester. Data
was normalized to include the cross sectional area of the hair as
determined from the laser scan micrometer and also examined prior to
normalization when necessary. The tensile data was then analyzed using
UvWin software and exported to Microsoft Excel for further analysis.
Statistical significance of all comparisons were determined using a
two-tailed t-test (α=0.05).

Tensile Analysis at 100% Relative Humidity

[0209] The procedure is the same as outlined for 65% Relative Humidity for
Tress 1 and Tress 2 except that after the crimps were loaded in the
cassette, the samples were covered with reverse osmosis water and allowed
to sit for a minimum of 10 minutes to ensure their saturation. The
samples were then covered with reverse osmosis water and allowed to sit
for a minimum of 10 minutes to ensure their saturation.

Tensile Analysis at 85% Relative Humidity

[0210] The procedure is the same as outlined for 65% Relative Humidity for
Tress 1 and Tress 2 except that after the crimps were loaded in the
cassette, the cassette with the crimps was placed in the controlled
environment chamber at 85% relative humidity overnight to equalize.

[0211] Two approximately 7 mm wide tresses of damaged level 2 mixed source
hair were assigned the following treatments:

[0212] Tress 1: Sap Moss Asia regimen (shampoo and conditioner**)

[0213] Tress 2: Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen

[0214] Tress 1 was rinsed with tap water, saturated with the Sap Moss Asia
shampoo, massaged for 30 seconds, and then rinsed with 37° C. tap
water for 1 minute. The tress was then saturated with the Sap Moss Asia
conditioner, massaged for 30 seconds, rinsed for 1 minute with 37°
C. tap water, and allowed to air dry. Tress 2 was rinsed with tap water,
saturated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo, massaged for 30
seconds, and then rinsed with 37° C. tap water for 1 minute. The
tress was then saturated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex conditioner,
massaged for 30 seconds, rinsed for 1 minute with 37° C. tap
water, and allowed to air dry.

[0217] Tensile analysis was performed following the procedure outlined in
the "Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity" section of Part I.

Part III: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0218] Dimensional measurements were collected for the hair treated with
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen and for the control hair using the
laser scan micrometer from the three tensile analyses in Part I.
Dimensional measurements were also collected for the hair treated with
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen and for the hair treated with the
Sap Moss Asia regimen from tensile analysis in Part II. Dimensions were
collected and analyzed as described previously. Statistical significance
was determined using a two-tailed t-test (α=0.05).

Part IV: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0219] Break extension measurements were collected for the hair treated
with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen and for the control using the
tensile tester during the tensile analyses in Part I. Break extension
data from all three tensile analyses was compiled and statistical
significance was determined using a two-tailed t-test (α=0.05).

Results

[0220] The data were analyzed using the paired t-test in the Data Analysis
tools in Microsoft Excel. The option used for the t-tests in this study
was "Two-sample Assuming Equal Variance." A two-tailed t-test was used.

[0222] (sample-control)/control×100. For all Tables, "sample" refers
to treatment with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex. For Tables XVII and
XIX, "control" refers to "water-only".

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0223] Testing at 65% relative humidity revealed no significant
differences between the control hair and the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen for cross sectional area, break extension,
or total work. There was a significant decrease in Young's modulus and
break load for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
regimen I. Results are shown in Table XVII.

Tensile Analysis at 100% Relative Humidity

[0224] When tested at 100% relative humidity, there was no significant
difference in cross sectional area, Young's modulus, break extension, or
total work between the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
regimen I and the control. There was a significant decrease in the break
load for the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen treated hair. Results are
shown in Table XVII.

Tensile Analysis at 85% Relative Humidity

[0225] Testing at 85% relative humidity revealed no significant
differences between the control hair and the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen for cross sectional area or total work.
There were significant decreases in Young's modulus and break load for
the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen. There was
also a significant increase in break extension for the treated hair.
Results are shown in Table XVII.

[0226] When tested at 65% relative humidity, there was no significant
difference in total work between the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen and the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia
regimen. There was a significant increase in cross sectional area for the
hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen in comparison to
the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia regimen. Since there was a
significant difference in cross sectional area, the dimensional data
could not be incorporated into the normalized break load calculation;
therefore the non-normalized break load was calculated and analyzed. Upon
analysis, there was a significant increase in the non-normalized break
load for the Ultra Moisturizing Complex treated hair. There was also a
significant decrease in Young's modulus and break extension for the hair
treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen. Results are shown in
Table XVIII.

Part III: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0227] When analyzing the compiled dimensional data from the tensile
analyses in Part I, there was a significant increase in cross sectional
area and diameter for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex regimen in comparison to the control treated hair. When comparing
the dimensional data from the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex regimen and the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia regimen from
the tensile analysis in Part II, cross sectional area and diameter
significantly increased for the Ultra Moisturizing Complex treated hair.
Results are shown in Table XIX.

Part IV: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0228] When analyzing all of the compiled break extension data from the
65%, 100%, and 85% tensile analyses for the hair treated with the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen and the control treated hair from Part I,
there was no significant difference in break extension between the
treatments.

[0230] When tested at 65% relative humidity, there was no significant
difference in cross sectional area, break extension, or total work
between the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen treated hair and the
control treated hair. There was a significant decrease in Young's modulus
and break load for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
regimen. A decrease in Young's modulus indicates an increase in the
moisture content of the hair, and a decrease in break load supports the
presence of moisturization properties.

[0231] The tensile results from the test at 100% relative humidity
revealed no significant difference in cross sectional area, Young's
modulus, break extension, or total work between the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex regimen treated hair and the control treated hair. There was a
significant decrease in break load for the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
treated hair. A decrease in break load suggests that less force was
needed to break the hair, and is often seen in hair that has been
moisturized. To further explore the moisturizing properties of the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex regimen, tensile analysis was performed at 85%
relative humidity.

[0232] Tensile testing at 85% relative humidity is typically used to
assess the effects of leave on products. While the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex shampoo and conditioner were not applied as leave on treatments,
collecting data from a third humidity range can help clarify the effects
of a treatment. Upon analysis, there was no significant difference in
cross sectional area or total work between the treatments. There was a
significant decrease in Young's modulus and break load indicating an
increase in moisture, supporting the results of the 65% and 100% relative
humidity tensile analyses. There was also a significant increase in break
extension indicating an increase in the elasticity of the hair.

[0235] The Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo and conditioner were
compared to the Sap Moss Asia shampoo and conditioner to determine
whether the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen is more moisturizing than
the Sap Moss Asia regimen. The results from the 65% relative humidity
tensile analysis revealed a significant increase in the cross sectional
area for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen. It
was contemplated that an increase in cross sectional area could be the
result of any of human error in the improper calibration of the laser
micrometer, swelling of the hair, deposits on the cuticle, or unpredicted
variances with the hair used for tensile testing. Significant changes in
cross sectional area prevent the incorporation of the dimensional data
into the normalized break load calculation; therefore, the non-normalized
break load was calculated and analyzed. Upon analysis, there was a
significant increase in the non-normalized break load for the hair
treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen. An increase in break
load suggests that more force was needed to break the hair. There was
also a significant decrease in Young's modulus and break extension for
the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen in
comparison to the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia regimen. A decrease
in Young's modulus indicates that the moisture content of the hair has
increased, and the decrease in break extension indicates that the hair
has become less elastic. The decrease in Young's modulus and the increase
in break load are in conflict with one another, suggesting both
moisturization and strengthening properties. However, for a treatment to
strengthen the moisture content of the hair fiber must decrease.
Strengthening properties cannot be confirmed at 65% relative humidity and
must be assessed under wet conditions which are known to be more
sensitive for strength. Further testing in necessary to determine if the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen significantly moisturizes hair more
than the Sap Moss Asia regimen.

[0236] Part III: Dimensional Data Analysis

[0237] To assess the hair dimensions, the individual measurements that
were taken with the laser scan micrometer, as opposed to the average of
the readings, were analyzed. Upon analysis, there was a significant
increase in the cross sectional area by an average of 9.9% and an
increase in diameter by an average of 11.2% for the hair treated with the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo and conditioner in comparison to the
control. As an increase in hair dimensions could be the result of
swelling of the cortex due to an increased moisture content of the hair
fiber or deposits on the cuticle, scanning electron microscopy was
utilized to determine of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen is
depositing on the cuticle.

[0238] When comparing the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
regimen to the hair treated with the Sap Moss Asia regimen, there was a
significant increase in the cross sectional area by an average of 26.3%
and an increase in diameter by an average of 11.2% for the treated with
the Ultra Moisturizing Complex shampoo and conditioner. These increases
indicate that the Ultra Moisturizing Complex regimen increases hair
dimensions to a significantly greater degree than does the Sap Moss Asia
regimen.

[0239] Part IV: Break Extension Data Analysis

[0240] Since the break extension significantly increased when tested at
85% relative humidity, all of the break extension data was compiled for
the 65%, 100%, and 85% relative humidity tensile analyses from Part I and
then analyzed. Upon analysis, there was an average increase of 0.90% in
the elasticity for the hair treated with the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
regimen; however this increase in break extension was not significant
between the two treatments. This indicates that the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex regimen does not significantly affect the elasticity of human
hair.

Example 10

Buriti Oil Scanning Electron Microscopy Analysis

[0241] The purpose of this study was to explore the effects of buriti oil
on the surface morphology of human hair using scanning electron
microscopy (SEM).

[0242] This study explored the effects of buriti oil on the surface
morphology of human hair. The effects of the oil were assessed on level 6
mixed source hair via scanning electron microscopy (SEM).

[0243] To determine if the conditioner base caused a visible change in
surface morphology of the hair strands, the images (not shown) of the
untreated hair were compared to the images (not shown) of the hair
treated with the conditioner base. Subjective comparison of these images
revealed little difference between the strands aside from a few clumps of
conditioner ingredients clinging to the surface of the conditioner
treated hair. The cuticle micrograph of the base treated hair shows a
clear, well defined cuticle and no visible deposition or coating. This
demonstrates that the conditioner base used in this study has very little
impact on the appearance of human hair.

[0244] Once it had been established that the conditioner base does not
impact the surface morphology of human hair strands, it could be assumed
that any changes in the appearance of hair treated with buriti oil can be
attributed to the oil and not the conditioner base used as the aqueous
carrier in this study. To explore the effects of the buriti oil, the SEM
images (not shown) collected from hair treated with conditioner base and
the hair treated with the buriti oil were compared. Subjective analysis
revealed that the surface of the hair treated with buriti oil was coated
with a thin, flaky residue. Based on these results, it can be concluded
that buriti oil coats human hair. The hair coated with the buriti oil has
a thickened appearance.

Example 11

Effects of the Substitution of Ingredients in Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner on the Tensile Properties of Human Hair

[0245] The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the Ultra
Moisturizing Complex Conditioner in which various ingredients were
substituted for the components shown to be effective in moisturizing
human hair.

Procedure

[0246] Part I: Analysis of the Effects of Dry Remedy Conditioner with the
Deep Moisture Complex on the Tensile Properties of Human Hair

Hair Preparation

[0247] This test was performed using level 4 mixed source hair. To induce
chemical damage the hair was bleached and permed. A commercial bleach was
blended thoroughly with a hair color brush and applied in excess to the
hair. After the hair was coated completely and evenly with the bleach, it
was set in weigh boats and placed in a 37° C. oven for 30 minutes.
Once the hair had processed for 30 minutes, it was rinsed thoroughly with
37° C. tap water. The tresses were clamped to a rod suspended 200
mm below the faucet. The water was kept at 37° C.±2° C.,
and the flow rate was kept at a rate that caused a 400 mL beaker to fill
and overflow in 4 to 5 seconds. The tresses were then washed with Scalp
Benefits Shampoo* to remove any excess bleach. Following this procedure,
the hair was treated with a commercial alkaline perm solution which
contains 9% sodium thioglycolate. The perm solution was left on the hair
to process for 8 minutes and then rinsed out for 10 minutes with
37° C. tap water following the previously outlined procedure. The
hair was allowed to air-neutralize for 10 minutes and then treated with a
commercial neutralizer. The neutralizer was left on the hair for 5
minutes at room temperature in accordance with package instructions.
After processing the tresses were rinsed for 5 minutes with 37° C.
tap water following the previously outlined procedure and allowed to air
dry.

[0249] For the tensile analysis two approximately 7 mm wide tresses of
damaged level 4 mixed source hair (Medium Brown Caucasian/European hair
from multiple persons) were assigned the following treatments:

Tress 1: No Treatment Control

Tress 2: Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner

[0250] Tress 1 was set aside and left untreated. Ultra Moisturizing
Complex Conditioner was applied in excess to tress 2. The tress was then
massaged for 30 seconds and rinsed with 37° C. tap water for 1
minute using the procedure outlined in the "Hair Preparation" section.
The tresses were then allowed to air dry.

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0251] Fifty strands of hair were randomly selected from each of the
swatches and were hand-threaded, root to tip, through brass crimps. The
crimps were then secured using a crimping press and were measured with
the laser scan micrometer. Five sets of dimensions were collected from
each sample to determine the mean cross-sectional area. After collecting
dimensional data from the samples, the crimps were loaded with their root
end towards the center of the tensile tester 100 slot cassette. The
cassette with the crimps was then placed in the controlled environment
chamber at 65% relative humidity overnight to equalize. The tensile
parameters of the crimps were then measured with the tensile tester. Data
was normalized to include the cross sectional area of the hair as
determined from the laser scan micrometer and also examined prior to
normalization when necessary. The tensile data was then analyzed using
UvWin software and exported to Microsoft Excel for further analysis.
Statistical significance of the data was determined using a two-tailed
t-test (p<0.05).

Part II: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
Containing Soybean Oil Instead of Buriti Oil on the Tensile Properties of
Human Hair

Hair Preparation

[0252] The tresses used in this portion of the study were chemically
damaged using the procedure described in part I.

Treating the Hair

[0253] For the tensile analysis two approximately 7 mm wide tresses of
damaged level 4 mixed source hair were assigned the following treatments:

[0265] The tresses were treated following the procedure outlined in the
"Treating the Hair" section of part I.

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity Tensile analysis was performed
at 65% relative humidity as outlined in part I.

Results

[0266] The data was analyzed using the paired t-test in the Data Analysis
tools in Microsoft Excel, The option used for the t-tests in this study
was Two-sample Assuming Equal Variance. A two-tailed t-test was used. The
values shown in Tables XX, XXI, XXII and XXIII represent the % change
from the no treatment control, and are calculated as:
(sample-control)/control×100.

Part I: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
on the Tensile Properties of Human Hair

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0267] Analysis of the 65% relative humidity results no significant
differences in cross sectional area, break extension, break load or total
work between the treatments (Table XX). There was, however, a significant
decrease in Young's modulus for the conditioner treated hair as compared
to the untreated control hair (Table XX).

Part II: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
Containing Soybean Oil Instead of Buriti Oil on the Tensile Properties of
Human Hair

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0268] Analysis of the 65% relative humidity results revealed no
significant differences in cross sectional area, break extension, total
work or break load between the treatments (Table XXI). Young's modulus
was significantly lower for the conditioner treated hair as compared to
the untreated control hair (Table XXI).

Part III: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner Containing Meadowfoam Oil Instead of Buriti Oil on the
Tensile Properties of Human Hair

Tensile Analysis at 65% Relative Humidity

[0269] Analysis of the results revealed no significant differences in
cross sectional area, break extension, break load or total work between
the treatments (Table XXII). There was, however, a significant decrease
in Young's modulus for the conditioner treated hair as compared to the
untreated control hair (Table XXII).

[0271] This study was conducted to determine the effects of the
conditioner on the moisture content of human hair. This study also
examined the effects of formulations of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner in which various ingredients were substituted for the raw
materials typically found in the Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner.
Testing was conducted at 65% relative humidity for each formulation.
Damaged level 4 mixed source hair was used for all tensile analyses.

Part I: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
on the Tensile Properties of Human Hair

[0272] To determine the effects the Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
has on the moisture content of hair, a tress treated with the conditioner
was compared to an untreated control tress. Tensile analysis at 65%
relative humidity revealed no significant differences in cross sectional
area, break load, break extension or total work between the treatments.
There was, however, a significant decrease in Young's modulus for the
conditioner treated hair as compared to the untreated control hair. This
decrease indicates that the Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
significantly moisturizes human hair.

[0273] Overall, the results of part I of this study indicate that the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner moisturizes human hair.

Part II: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
Containing Soybean Oil Instead of Buriti Oil on the Tensile Properties of
Human Hair

[0274] To examine the effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner containing soybean oil instead of buriti oil on the moisture
content of hair, a tress treated with the conditioner was compared to an
untreated control tress. At 65% relative humidity, there were no
significant differences in cross sectional area, break extension, total
work or break load between the treatments. Young's modulus was
significantly lower for the conditioner treated hair as compared to the
untreated control hair. As discussed previously, a decrease in Young's
modulus indicates that the treatment significantly moisturizes human
hair.

Part III: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner Containing Meadowfoam Oil Instead of Buriti Oil on the
Tensile Properties of Human Hair

[0276] To examine the effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner containing meadowfoam oil instead of buriti oil on the
moisture content of hair, a tress treated with the conditioner was
compared to an untreated control tress. At 65% relative humidity, there
were no significant differences in cross sectional area, break extension,
break load or total work between the treatments. There was, however, a
significant decrease in Young's modulus for the conditioner treated hair
as compared to the untreated control hair. As discussed in parts I and
II, this decrease indicates that treatment with the Ultra Moisturizing
Complex Conditioner containing meadowfoam oil instead of buriti oil
significantly moisturizes human hair.

Part IV: Analysis of the Effects of Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner
Containing Cholesterol Instead of Pomegranate Sterols on the Tensile
Properties of Human Hair

[0278] To examine the effects of the Ultra Moisturizing Complex containing
synthetic cholesterol instead of pomegranate sterols on the moisture
content of hair, a tress treated with the conditioner was compared to an
untreated control tress. At 65% relative humidity, there were no
significant differences in cross sectional area, break extension, total
work, break load or Young's modulus between the treatments. This lack of
significant difference indicates that the Ultra Moisturizing Complex
Conditioner containing cholesterol instead of pomegranate sterols does
not impact the moisture content of human hair.

[0279] Overall, the results of part IV of this study indicate that the
Ultra Moisturizing Complex Conditioner containing cholesterol instead of
pomegranate sterols does not impact the moisture content of human hair.