Oxheart designer Gin Braverman is so happy with the industrial-cool light fixtures she created for the restaurant that she's now making similar custom designs for her residential clients. $500-$1,500, order through gindesigns.com.
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Oxheart designer Gin Braverman is so happy with the industrial-cool light fixtures she created for the restaurant that she's now making similar custom designs for her residential clients. $500-$1,500, order ... more

Causitas (a trio of traditional Peruvian whipped potatos) at Latin Bites at 5709 Woodway near Chimney Rock on Tuesday, Feb. 7, 2012, in Houston. Latin Bites, the much acclaimed Peruvian cafe that earned great foodie allegiance over the past couple of years, got too small for its wee space in downtown Houston. Two weeks ago, the restaurant made a leap to a bigger store and quite far from its original stomping grounds. Latin Bites occupies the former home of Rockwood Room. ( Karen Warren / Houston Chronicle ) less

Causitas (a trio of traditional Peruvian whipped potatos) at Latin Bites at 5709 Woodway near Chimney Rock on Tuesday, Feb. 7, 2012, in Houston. Latin Bites, the much acclaimed Peruvian cafe that earned great ... more

Photo: Karen Warren, Staff

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The Cebiche Pescador (mixed seafood "fisherman" ceviche with sweet potato and peruvian corn) at Latin Bites at 5709 Woodway near Chimney Rock on Tuesday, Feb. 7, 2012, in Houston. Latin Bites, the much acclaimed Peruvian cafe that earned great foodie allegiance over the past couple of years, got too small for its wee space in downtown Houston. Two weeks ago, the restaurant made a leap to a bigger store and quite far from its original stomping grounds. Latin Bites occupies the former home of Rockwood Room. ( Karen Warren / Houston Chronicle ) less

The Cebiche Pescador (mixed seafood "fisherman" ceviche with sweet potato and peruvian corn) at Latin Bites at 5709 Woodway near Chimney Rock on Tuesday, Feb. 7, 2012, in Houston. Latin Bites, the much ... more

Photo: Karen Warren, Staff

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Latin Bites will be serving complimentary pisco sour flights Saturday, Feb. 2, to commemorate Pisco Sour Day, which is celebrated in Peru where the cocktail originated. The drink trio will include a traditonal pisco sour, as well chicha morada and passion fruit pisco sours. less

Latin Bites will be serving complimentary pisco sour flights Saturday, Feb. 2, to commemorate Pisco Sour Day, which is celebrated in Peru where the cocktail originated. The drink trio will include a traditonal ... more

Chengdu-style Pot Roasted Tilapia, live from the tank, at Mala Sichuan. Photo by Alison Cook

Chengdu-style Pot Roasted Tilapia, live from the tank, at Mala Sichuan. Photo by Alison Cook

Photo: Alison Cook

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The jerk chicken, which is the signature dish at Jamaica House, is seen on Thursday, Sept. 23, 2010, in Houston. ( Julio Cortez / Houston Chronicle )

The jerk chicken, which is the signature dish at Jamaica House, is seen on Thursday, Sept. 23, 2010, in Houston. ( Julio Cortez / Houston Chronicle )

Photo: Julio Cortez, Staff

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Orlando Argueta holds a crawfish as he prepares a plate of crawfish at Floyd's Cajun Seafood restaurant at Nasa Road 1 and the Gulf freeway Wednesday, May 5, 2010, in Houston. With the threat of the oil spill from the sunken Deepwater Horizon drilling rig, seafood like oysters, crawfish, shrimp and other Gulf seafood staples could be in short supply soon. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle ) less

Orlando Argueta holds a crawfish as he prepares a plate of crawfish at Floyd's Cajun Seafood restaurant at Nasa Road 1 and the Gulf freeway Wednesday, May 5, 2010, in Houston. With the threat of the oil spill ... more

Blue Nile Ethiopian Cuisine: 9400 Richmond, 713-782-6882. $$ Open daily for lunch, dinner. Brunch on weekends. For nearly 20 years, this west-side restaurant has been introducing Ethiopian cuisine to adventurous diners. Judging from the packed dining room, they all came back for more.

Cafe Benedicte: 15455 Memorial, 281-558-6607. Open daily for lunch, dinner (except Sunday). Brunch weekends only. $$ The patio at this cheerful west-side cafe is shaded by moss-covered oaks. Live music on the weekends.

Breakfast Klub: 3711 Travis, 713-528-8561. $-$$ Open for breakfast and lunch daily. There always seems to be a line around this iconic Midtown cafe. Folks are happy to wait for a big plate of wing-topped waffles or the silly good fried catfish and grits.

More Information

Guide to $ ratings

$: Entrees priced under $10

$$: Entrees priced $10-$20

$$$: Entrees priced $20-$30

$$$$: Entrees (and tasting menus) priced at more than $30.

Drew's Pastry Place: 10300 Louetta,832-717-3530. $ Open breakfast, lunch and dinner (except Monday) daily. This New York-style bakery specializes in cannoli, zeppole and sfogliatelli. Not familiar with these treats? Then you really need to visit Drew's.

Kolache Factory: Find the nearest store at kolachefactory.com. Open daily. $ Founded in Houston, this family-owned bake chain has dozens of outlets in Houston, as well as in five other states. The specialty: Czech-style sweet (apple, pear, apricot) and savory (sausage or barbecue) stuffed pastries.

House Of Pies: 3112 Kirby, 713-528-3816; 6142 Westheimer, 713-782-1290. Open 24 hours. $ This popular diner is still the best place in town to nurse a hangover. There are healing powers in the pie.

CorkScrew BBQ: 24930 Budde in The Woodlands, 281-330-2178. Open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday. $$ This mobile kitchen is in the process of building a brick-and-mortar restaurant. Even with the expansion, pitmaster Will Buckman will likely run out of 'cue before 4 p.m.

Gatlin's BBQ: 1221 W. 19th, 281-804-4555. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$ Considered by many to be Houston's best barbecue, this small Heights spot sometimes has a hard time keeping up with demand for its tender brisket. Be patient, it's worth the wait.

Goode Co. Barbecue: Jim Goode's sliced brisket sandwich on house-made jalapeño-cheese bread is a modern barbecue classic. Just about everything else in this Texabilia-crammed neo-joint upholds the state's honor, too: Czech sausage, duck, turkey and the lush pecan pie. (Bought whole, this pie makes one of Houston's best souvenirs.)

Pizzitola's Bar-B-Cue: 1703 Shepherd, 713-227-2283. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ Pizzitola's has been serving up barbecue meats for more than 80 years, so they must be doing something right. The smoky ribs and planks of beef are good, but cross genres and try the fajita-style deboned chicken complete with pinto beans, pico, cheese, sour cream and tortillas.

Ray's Real Pit BBQ Shack: 4529 Old Spanish Trail, 713-748-4227. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ This family owned spot smokes a great sausage, as well as boudin. They also serve seafood and burgers.

Cleburne Cafeteria: 3606 Bissonnet, 713-667-2386. Closed on Saturdays. $ Crave turkey and dressing? It's Thanksgiving every day here. The Mickelis family has been feeding home cooking-loving Houstonians since 1952.

Harry's Restaurant: 318 Tuam, 713-528-0198. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. $ This cheerful midtown spot has a Greek personality and international fare.

Luby's: Find the nearest location at lubys.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ This Houston-based chain has dozens of restaurants here, some are dual concepts where the dining room is shared by Fuddruckers, a sister company. The LuAnn plate — a protein, two sides and a roll — is a classic value meal.

Little Daddy's Gumbo Bar:1615 W. FM 646 in League City, 281-524-8626. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Terrific restaurant specializes in steaming pots of mussels, clams and shrimp, as well as gumbo. For something different, try the prime rib gumbo served with steamed rice. There's also barbecue oysters, burgers and po'boys. Nice selection of wine and beer, too.

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen: 9595 Six Pines in the Woodlands, 281-419-4242. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ This family run restaurant is turning out terrific Cajun/creole fare and, arguably, the best bread pudding in town. The comfortable dining room and warm service are nearly as sweet as Schilleci's praline sauce.

Reggae Hut: 4814 Almeda, 713-520-7171. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ Dig into the spicy Jerk Chicken and sip on a cool Ting at this colorful cafe. While parking can be a hassle, the waitstaff is friendly and helpful.

FuFu Cafe: 9889 Bellaire, 713-981-8818. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $ If you are a connoisseur of sturdy dumplings in the northern style, or spicy dishes atingle with the numbing, distinctive warmth of Szechuan peppercorns, this is your diner.

Mala Sichuan Bistro: 9348 Bellaire, 713-995-1889. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ This relative newcomer to the Bellaire Chinatown scene is known for its spicy dishes such as the Three Pepper Beaten Duck. Lightweights beware: dishes can run from fiery to tongue-numbing.

Rattan Pan-Asian Bistro: 1396 Eldridge Parkway, 281-556-9888. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ This handsome, contemporary addition to the far west Houston scene features a sleek Italian Enomatic wine-dispensing system that delivers wines (by the glass or the taste) in impeccable condition. The Pan-Asian food can be very good, too, although the execution is not always steady.

Yum Yum Cha: 2435 Times Blvd., 713-527-8455. Closed Tuesdays. $$ Start with a flip book with photos of each dish, mark your selections and sit back to enjoy a most unusual dim sum experience. It may be a bit more expensive than cafes on Bellaire Boulevard, but its Rice Village location makes it so convenient for Inner-Loopers.

Central/South American

Amazon Grill: 5114 Kirby, 713-522-5888. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Michael Cordua's casual counter-service restaurant is a magnet for folks who want to try Cordua's food but can't (or won't) pony up for the pricey Americas and Churrascos. Puffy tacos, deftly fried seafood dishes and plantain-crusted chicken sandwiches are among the options.

Churrascos: 9705 Westheimer, 713-952-1988; 2055 Westheimer, 713-527-8300; 520 Lake Pointe Parkway in Sugar Land, 832-532-5300. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$$-$$$$ The signature dish is a butterflied grilled tenderloin basted in a garlicky chimichurri sauce. It's a local dining monument. The fine seafood, South American wines and accommodating service are other attractions at the restaurant that launched the Cordua mini-empire.

Latin Bites: 5709 Woodway, 713-229-8369. Open for lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Monday-Saturday and brunch Sunday. $$$ This restaurant helmed by Roberto Castro offers a sophisticated take on Peruvian fare, including gorgeous plates of tiradito (raw fish plates) and ceviche. The thoughtful cocktail program makes this spot ripe for romance.

Tango & Malbec: 2800 Sage, 713-629-8646. $$$-$$$$ Open for lunch and dinner daily. The South American gem serves excellent steaks, but there's much more to discover including flaky empanadas and clever pizzas.

Churrascaria

Angus Grill: 6106 Westheimer, 713-334-5206. $$$ Open for lunch Saturday-Sunday and dinner daily. With its giant skews of meats, this Galleria-area restaurant is the real deal. Other reasons to like this cordial, low-key spot: the cheese popovers and the simple, fresh vegetables at the salad bar.

Fogo de Chao: 8250 Westheimer, 713-978-6500. $$$$ Open for lunch Monday-Friday, dinner daily. The elder statesman of Houston churrascarias is also one of the better ones. The large and lively dining room buzzes with energy. The skewers of meat — from filet mignon to leg of lamb — are perfectly cooked and the salad bar is a tasty work of art.

Tradicao: 12000 Southwest Freeway, 713-339-1122; 201 W. Bay Area Blvd. in Webster, 281-557-9999. Open for lunch Sunday-Friday and dinner daily. $$$-$$$$ At this homegrown, family-owned, all-you-can-eat steakhouse, long skewers of grilled meats are paraded around the dining room. On any given night, you'll be offered more than a dozen choices of meat and fish.

Coffee house

Antidote: 729 Studewood, 713-861-7400. Open daily. $ Fans of this tiny Heights coffee house are a passionate bunch. For many, it's the only coffee house in town. So what's to love? The eclectic clientele (though some argue it's a haven for hipsters), the locally driven snack menu with plenty of vegan options (can't you hear the hipsters cheering?), a brew snob-worthy beer menu, the shabby chic decor and a sincerely happy happy hour.

Catalina: 2201 Washington, 713-861-8448. Open daily. $ Youthful owner Max Gonzalez is just one of the friendly faces behind the counter at this coffee house that was serving Washington Avenue commuters before the area was cool. It's not going to be the place you want to camp with coworkers while you're finishing a project, but it is the place you want to hit if you're looking for latte perfection. This place caters to folks serious about their coffee, and little more.

Blacksmith: 1018 Westheimer, 713-360-7470. Open daily. $ A project of Houston's best known barista David Buehrer and best known bartender Bobby Heugel, this Montrose hangout buzzes with energy and caffeine. Chef Erin Smith's biscuits and boxed lunches are the stuff of legend.

El Rey Taqueria: Find the nearest location at elreytaqueria.com. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $ Houston has plenty of taquerias but what distinguishes these friendly spots are the Cuban specialities including superb Cuban sandwiches. And the price is always right.

Deli

Carter & Cooley:375 W. 19th, 713-864-3354. Open for breakfast and lunch daily. $ Custom sandwiches are the specialty at this old-fashioned deli in a strolling district of the Heights. May we suggest a classic Reuben with hot corned beef, swiss cheese and sauerkraut? These puppies are monster-sized; if you split the sandwich with a friend you'll have room for C&C's terrific homemade peach pie.

Jason's Deli: Find the nearest location at jasonsdeli.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $ Enormous New York-style sandwiches — served with crinkle chips and pickle spears — are the specialty. Try the muffaletta — hard salami, provolone and an addictive olive salad — for a taste of New Orleans.

Kahn's Deli: 2429 Rice Blvd., 713-529-2891. Open daily. $-$$ The Kahn family has been serving terrific deli-style fare since 1948 when Alfred Kahn opened the well-loved Alfred's Delicatessen on Rice Boulevard. Today, his son, Mike, operates Kahn's Deli, an iconic stop in Rice Village. Pastrami sandwiches are a favorite. Pair it with a Southern Star brew for a big bite of Texas.

Local Foods: 2424 Dunstan, 713-521-7800. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ From the folks behind Benjy's, this market/cafe features produce, meats and prepared foods by regional purveyors.

Fine dining

Brennan's of Houston: 3300 Smith, 713-522-9711. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and brunch and dinner Sunday. $$$-$$$$ People are often breathless when they speak of Brennan's, and not without reason. A gracious staff and a well-run kitchen nearly guarantee a four-star experience. And dishes such as roasted oysters, duck sausage and barbecue crawfish shortcakes remind that Houston and New Orleans share much more than I-10.

Da Marco: 1520 Westheimer, 713-807-8857. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$$-$$$$ Well-honed pastas, disciplined salads and impeccable seafood and meats are modern Italian with a twist of the Friuli region. Daily specials can thrill, from sheep-cheese ravioli in a purée of minted peas to bold, house-made head cheese set against tart heirloom potato salad.

Mark's: 1658 Westheimer, 713-523-3800. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$$-$$$$ Chef/owner Mark Cox's modern Americana is as highly detailed as his menu's pedigree-happy prose. When the kitchen's on — which is mostly — his seasonal fare feels elaborate and luxurious. The service clicks. The neo-Gothic setting, in a revamped church, amuses — except on a crowded night when closely packed tables make the main room loud and claustrophobic.

The Pass: 807 Taft, 713-628-9020. $$$$ Open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday. This fine dining room is part of Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner's dual concept the Pass & Provision. Two tasting menus (five or eight courses) are served each night in this intimate space. The chef/owners present each plate to the table and encourage discussion of the dishes.

Rainbow Lodge: 2011 Ella Blvd., 713-861-8666. $$$-$$$$ Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday and Sunday, dinner only Saturday. This elegantly rustic restaurant specializes in wild game and seafood, wooing diners with ingredients that come from its back garden. When the weather allows, dining on its bayou-side patio is a pure joy.

RDG + Bar Annie: 1800 Post Oak Blvd., 713-840-1111. Open for lunch and dinner Sunday-Friday, dinner only Saturday. $$$-$$$$ Got a client or a colleague you want to impress? Robert Del Grande's dramatic dining room and his upscale comfort fare — roasted pheasant, braised rabbit, rack of lamb — are just the ticket. Or if you're just looking for a place to chill, try the terrace that overlooks tony Post Oak.

Ristorante Cavour: 1080 Uptown Park Blvd., 713-418-1104. $$$-$$$$ Open daily. Located in the posh Hotel Granduca, this Galleria-area Italian restaurant's fare is as luxurious as the service and table settings.

Tony's: 3755 Richmond, 713-622-6778. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$$-$$$$ Dining is theater at this Houston institution warmly overseen by namesake Tony Vallone. If you're not wowed with what's on the plate (and we bet you will be), you're sure to be dazzled by glitterati in the dining room.

Food trucks/carts

Bernie's Burger Bus: This bright yellow bus (actually, there are three) is hard to miss. The from-scratch menu of Angus burgers includes the Homerun with applewood bacon, cheddar, chipotli aioli and a fried egg. It's unbelievably good and worthy of a side order of hand-cut fries with house-made ketchup. $ Find the next stop at berniesburgerbus.com.

Good Dogs: This isn't your backyard dog. These dogs are Texas-sourced and topped with house-made condiments such as sriracha ketchup, jalapeño relish and roasted garlic aioli. Even the buns have a fine pedigree. We can't get enough of the Ol' Zapata Dog, which is topped with bacon, muenster cheese, caramelized onions, tomatoes and jalapeno relish. $ Find the next stop at gooddogfoodtruck.com

Melange Creperie: We are crazy about the cart where Sean Carroll mans the 500-degree grill and serves up the best crepes in town. Offerings change daily but look for savory crepes such as a poblano pepper with queso fresco and sweet crepes filled with banana and Nutella. If there's a line, stick with it. Good food takes time. $ Carts parked Monday-Friday at 403 Westheimer and 1001 Studewood.

Monster PBJ: Fresh fruit, house-made nut butters and locally sourced jams make this big grape-colored truck a favorite with Moms and picky youngsters. These folks will even cut the crust off. $ Find the next stop at monsterpbj.com.

Pi Pizza: Inspired pizzas are topped with high quality ingredients such as sopressata, goat cheese and lamb. Buy a slice or a whole pie. They even deliver. $ Find the next stop at pipizzatruck.com.

Stick It: Everything tastes better on a stick. At least it seems that way. One of the city's new mobile kitchens, Stick It serves an eclectic menu with items such as Texas beer-battered fish, Korean pork belly lettuce wraps and fried chicken. Don't walk away without dessert: fried funnel cake-battered brie accompanied by a berry compote. It's cheesy goodness. $ Find the next stop at stickitfoodtruck.com.

Kris Bistro: 7070 Allensby, 713-358-5079. $$ Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$-$$$ Located in Culinary Institute LeNotre, executive Chef Kris Jakob's modern, art-filled bistro features a staff of experienced chefs and senior culinary students. The fare is French with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Breads and pastries are all made in-house. The wine menu is dominated with French wines selected simply because they play well with the food.

Le Mistral: 1420 Eldridge Parkway, 832-379-8322. Open for lunch and dinner Sunday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$-$$$ Chef and owner David Denis is a perfectionist. His French fare is hearty yet plated to dazzle. For his guests, he commands an army of servers that is so unobtrusive the dining room feels relaxed even on a hectic evening. For a bit of romance, request a table on the softly lighted patio.

Philippe Restaurant: 1800 Post Oak Blvd., 713-439-1000. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$$ Helmed by the self-anointed French Cowboy, Philippe Schmit, this restaurant boasts a striking dining room with a playful menu (duck confit tamales, anyone?). And the bar scene? One word: party.

German

Charivari: 2521 Bagby, 713-521-7231. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$$ This intimate (some might say stuffy) dining room tucked into tiny Midtown strip center is overseen by Transylvanian chef-owner Johan Schuster and his German-born wife. The seasonal menus are filled with fancy (and very pricey) European fare. Try the wiener schnitzel and Schuster's fragrant garlic soup. The latter is guaranteed to keep Dracula and other suitors away for days.

King's Biergarten: 1329 E. Broadway in Pearland, 832-569-4141. $-$$ Open for lunch and dinner daily. Oh, how we love Texas and its happy combos. Biergarten and car wash, you bet. This family-operated cafe boasts an extensive patio and an even bigger menu of Austrian and German specialties, including bratwurst, schnitzel, red cabbage, bacon dumplings, goulash and homemade apple strudel. Also fine selection of German beers on draft. Prost!

Rudi Lechner's: 2503 S. Gessner, 713-782-1180. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ Solid traditional German dishes and a lively buffet and salad bar. Good wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten. Live German music most nights.

Greek

Niko Niko's: 2520 Montrose, 713-528-1308. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Niko Niko's is well-known for its incredibly yummy Greek food. It's also well-known for being relatively small for the number of people it serves. Be prepared to wait in line if you go during peak weekend hours. The atmosphere is like a Mediterranean burger joint. The food, however, is worth the wait. Large portion sizes make the prices fair and the outside patio is nice for people watching. The restaurant also operates a kiosk ($) with limited menu daily at downtown's Market Square Park, 301 Milam.

Yia Yia Mary's: 4747 San Felipe, 713-840-8665. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ Everything you expect to be on the menu is here — kebabs, souvlaki, hummus and the rest — and it's all worth trying. The drink menu, on the other hand, is forced. A margarita with ouzo? Strong, but weird.

Hamburgers/Hot Dogs

Sammy's Wild Game Grill: 3715 Washington, 713-868-1345. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $ Ever tried a pheasant hot dog or an antelope burger? This tiny spot with full bar specializes in wild game — elk and kangaroo included, sandwiches and salads

Becks Prime: Find the nearest location at becksprime.com. Open daily. $-$$ Freshly grilled burgers, nicely charred hot dogs, hand-cut, skin-on fries and crazy good shakes are all you need to know about this small Houston-born chain. Salads, grilled chicken and grilled vegetables provide options for those watching their waist lines.

The Burger Guys: 706 Main, 713-223-4897; 12225 Westheimer, 281-497-4897. Downtown location open for lunch Monday-Friday. Westheimer open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $-$$ Gourmet sandwiches featuring produce and meats supplied by local producers make this burger joint a culinary gem. And what do we mean by gourmet? Take the Saigon: pate, daikon, carrot, jalapeño and sriracha-lime aioli. Or the Sydney: cheddar, a fried egg and grilled pineapple. Gussied-up hot dogs, sophisticated takes on fries and onion rings and whimsical milk shakes (some breakfast cereal-flavored) add to the appeal.

Christian's Tailgate: 2820 White Oak, 713-863-1207; 2000 Bagby, 713-527-0261; 7340 Washington, 713-864-9744. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ One of the city's best burgers served in dining rooms filled with flat-screens TVs? We're in. The excellent bar food (oh, glorious Frito Pie), fair drink prices and laid-back spirit make the Heights and Midtown locations favorites on game days. Now, if they could just do something about the parking.

Hubcap Grill: 1133 W. 19th, 713-862-0555; 1111 Prairie, 713-223-5885. Downtown open for lunch Monday-Saturday. Heights open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $ The problem with Hubcap: It ruins lunch forever. I mean, how can you go back to eating at Subway after you've had downtown's best bacon burger? The patties are shaped by hand from fresh beef. The buns are just study enough to absorb the ooze. The condiments are neither skimpy nor overloaded. The ambiance is trailerlicious. Try one of the crazy combinations — Frito Pie Burger, the Triple Heart Clogger or the Greek Burger — that ooze goodness. There's often a wait so pack your patience — and cash, if you're headed to the downtown grill. There's an ATM on site for plastic devotees.

Lankford Grocery: 88 Dennis, 713-522-9555. Open for breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday. $ Hidden in the townhome canyons of east Montrose, this homey little spot serves up some of the city's best burgers and tots. The kitchen also produces some pretty good tacos and chicken fried steak. Texas-sized breakfasts lure early-risers.

Indian

Great W'kana Cafe: 11720 W. Airport Blvd., 281-725-8463. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Authentic and sophisticated Indian fare in a modest mom-and-pop diner. Staff can be taxed when the house is full and it is much of the time.

Indika: 516 Westheimer, 713-984-1725. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$-$$$ Owner/chef Anita Jaisinghani's contemporary Indian cuisine is as pretty as the dining room it is served in. Polished service. Prices that reflect perfection.

Pondicheri: 2800 Kirby, 713-522-2022. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Indian street food and homestyle dishes from Indika's Anita Jaisinghani. Counter service for breakfast and lunch.

Shri Balaji Bhavan: 5655 Hillcroft, 713-783-1126. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Excellent house-made breads and fiery vegetarian fare are served in generous portions at this spotless restaurant.

Ice cream

Hank's Ice Cream Parlor: 9291 S. Main, 713-665-5103. Closed Mondays. $ Houstonians know that even the most unattractive strip center can hold a surprise. In the shadow of Reliant Stadium is one such strip. It's treasure: a tiny ice cream parlor, where pink and purple walls are cluttered with memorabilia documenting more than 20 years of expanding Bayou City waistlines. Try a generous scoop of the incredibly indulgent banana-pudding ice cream. Hank's butter pecan has few rivals, but the same can be said too of more bizarre flavors: sweet potato, cotton candy, creamed corn and rose petal.

Ciao Bello: 5161 San Felipe, 713-960-0333. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ Tony and Jeff Vallone, the father and son team behind ultra-upscale Tony's, have created a casual Italian eatery for the rest of us.

Coppa: 5555 Washington, 713-426-4260. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday and Sunday. $$-$$$ Chef Brandi Key puts her brick oven to good use with a selection of intriguing pizzas such as potato with leeks and salsa verde, as well pastas and expertly grilled meats.

D'Amico's: 5510 Morningside, 713-526-3400; 2802 White Oak, 713-868-3400. Open daily lunch and dinner.. $-$$ This bustling combo of diner and Italian market can overwhelm on a Friday night or Saturday afternoon. But take a deep breath and smell the prosciutto. Homemade pasta is available for home cooks or gorge yourself on the lasagna of the day. Good too are the desserts, including locally made gelato.

Giacomo's Cibo e Vino: 3215 Westheimer, 713-522-1934. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday and dinner only Sunday. $-$$ Choose from a dozen or so antipasti or order a fresh cooked pasta. Counter service can be agonizingly slow in a crush, but once that's done, the cheery dining room and relaxation awaits. Table service after 5 p.m.

Hasta La Pasta: 6915 Cypresswood Drive in Spring, 281-446-6414; 7681 FM 1960 East in Humble, 281-446-6414; 1450 Grand Parkway in Katy, 281-392-0045. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Service is very good at this small locally owned chain. And while the menu is not inventive, the execution is consistent and reliable. Now about that silly name ...

Mancuso's Italian Table: 2231 S. Voss, 713-953-9090. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$ Neighborhood Italian spot offers wood-fired pizzas, pastas and steaks in a grown-up setting. Live music on the weekends.

Poscol: 1609 Westheimer, 713-529-2797. Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$ This charming wine bar is known for its interesting small plates that include house-made salumi, artisan cheeses, terrines and flat breads.

Vincent's: 2701 W. Dallas, 713-528-4313. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$-$$$ Rotisserie roasted chicken is the specialty of this neighborhood restaurant. Expect quality Italian fare such as antipasti, pizza and pasta and cordial service.

Japanese

Kata Robata: 3600 Kirby,713-526-8858. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$$ Chef Manabu Horiuchi — known as Hori-san to the legion of foodies who pack the sushi bar — has a gift with fish. And what is served here is among the most carefully sourced protein in town.

Uchi: 904 Westheimer, 713-522-4808. Open for dinner daily. $$-$$$$ This Austin transplant from James Beard Award-winning Tyson Cole turns out inspired sushi and sashimi that is as pretty as the dazzling dining room. Happy hour — available throughout the restaurant and with specials on some of the Uchi's signature dishes — is a great time to visit and, while reservations can be tough, the restaurant greets walk-ins with a smile.

Korean

Korea Garden: 9501 Long Point Road, 713-468-2800. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ This attractive restaurant has been introducing Houstonians to the flavors of Korea for more than 25 years. Do-it-yourself grilling offers a fun experience for date night.

Hugo's: 1602 Westheimer, 713-524-7744. Open for lunch and dinner daily, brunch on Sunday. $$-$$$ This is no enchilada joint. The upscale regional Mexican dishes — and the zippy cocktails — are carefully crafted and generally unseen on other Houston menus. Worth a try: the bright snapper-studded ceviche, grilled octopus and s sopecitos — a trio of little masa pillows stuffed with rabbit, chicharones and duck. And those are just off the starters menu. Sunday brunch is a spectacle.

La Fisheria: 4705 Inker, 713-802-1712. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday and brunch Sunday. $$-$$$ Chef Aquiles Chavez is a reality television star in his native country. In Houston, he's offering his modern take on his country's favorite seafood dishes, including grilled octopus, marinated oysters and shrimp-topped flat breads.

Pico's: 5941 Bellaire, 713-662-8383. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ As close as Houston gets to Puerto Vallarta. Sit under the palapas, sip margaritas and nibble the sautéed calamari, cochinita pibil, enchiladas moles or chiles nogada. This is a big, crowded, noisy, wonderful place. Go on off-hours, or wait for a table.

Middle Eastern

Cafe Lili Lebanese Grill: 5757 Westheimer, 713-952-6969. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and lunch only Sunday. $$ Cafe Lili's location, in a strip mall on Westheimer, belies the fact that this is pretty good, authentic Lebanese food. The staff is incredibly friendly and will gladly teach you how to pronounce whatever you order. And after you're done eating, try the Lebanese coffee.

Empire Turkish Grill: 12448 Memorial, 713-827-7475. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ With its white linens, formal place settings and grandmotherly curtains, the dining room can seem a little fussy. But what comes out of this west Houston kitchen is Mediterranean comfort food. Appetizers here are terrific. Among them: Garlicky cucumber yogurt dip, a smokey babagannus and a rich red caviar dip. There's the usual kabobs and gyros, but consider one of Empire's hearty stews such as the Etli Bamya (lamb with okra) and Turlu (a delicious vegetable concoction).

Turquoise Grill: 3701 Kirby, 713-526-3800; 16019 City Walk in Sugar Land, 281-937-744. Open for lunch and dinner daily (Kirby closed on Sunday). $$ You can get everything from sprightly Middle Eastern dips to kebabs to multi-culti brick-oven pizzas and calzones here, not to mention the best tabbouleh in town. Don't pass up fresh-baked shepherd bread or superb baklava.

New American

Oxheart: 1302 Nance, 832-830-8592. Open for dinner Thursday-Monday. $$$$ Husband and wife team of Justin Yu and Karen Man have a small jewel in downtown's shadow. Working with locally sourced foods, the chefs offer three tasting menus, including a vegetarian option. With just 30 seats and a national reputation, reservations can be difficult.

Roost: 1972 Fairview, 713-523-7667. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday. $$-$$$ Dining at this small, neighborhood restaurant feels like spending an evening in an old friend's home. You just want to linger. The kitchen pays attention to the details and turns out sophisticated dishes such roasted cauliflower with miso dressing and bonita flakes.

Triniti: 2815 S. Shepherd, 713-527-9090. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$$-$$$$ A culinary dream team led by executive chef Ryan Hildebrand treats diners to little culinary works of art in this swanky restaurant that has earned national attention for its decor.

Pakastani

Himalaya Restaurant: 6652 Southwest Freeway, 713-532-2837. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $-$$ Your best bet at this small southwest diner is to let chef-owner Kaiser Lashkari order for you. Luckily, it's all good, from braised meats and fragrant curries to the fluffiest biryani and garlic-flecked naan.

Persian

Bijan Persian Grill: 5922 Hillcroft, 832-242-5959. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Shareable plates of vegetable and yogurt dips, kebabs and perfectly cooked rice make this a place to bring a crowd. Friendly service.

Bombay Pizza Co.: 914 Main, 713-654-4444; 636 Highway 6 in Sugar Land, 281- 242 -1131. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ This Indian/Italian fusion pizzeria offers a dozen specialty pizzas, as well-customized pies. We're fans of the Sonu Rita with its cilantro-mint chutney and combination of saag paneer and mozzarella. It doesn't hurt that the staff is super friendly and there are nice happy hour deals.

Crust Pizza Company: 4775 W. Panther Creek in The Woodlands, 281-298-8844; 8000 Research Forest Drive in The Woodlands, 832-585-0999. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Family-owned pizza joint keeps it simple: fresh ingredients and high quality meats, wallet-friendly prices on beer and wine and a young, welcoming staff. Thanks to a well-priced kids' menu (food and drink for $4), this place is a magnet for multifamily gatherings, little league teams and the like. Try the spicy buffalo chicken or a meatball calzone. Both are made with fresh house-made doughs. And save room for dessert: gelato.

Dolce Vita Pizzeria Enoteca: 500 Westheimer, 713-520-8222. Open for lunch and dinner Thursday-Sunday and dinner only Tuesday-Wednesday. Chef Marco Wiles' pizzas with their perfectly blistered crusts and inspired toppings are edible works of art. Don't miss the shaved Brussels sprouts appetizer. You'll never again be able to say 'I don't like Brussels sprouts.'

Pink's Pizza: Find the nearest location at pinkspizza.com. Open daily. $$ Awesome pizza. Seriously awesome pizza. A Pink's pie costs more than Little DomiHut's, but you can't compare the pies. You can pick your toppings, but Pink's specialty pizzas are constructed with love and an eye for flavor.

Star Pizza: 77 Harvard, 713-869-1241; 2111 Norfolk, 713-523-0800. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Star Pizza is that place where all the cool teens used to hang out. Now those teens are all grown up with teens, toddlers and grandkids of their own. They still flock to Star, broods in tow, for specialty pizzas such as the Salsa Verde (with its tomatillo sauce and poblano peppers) and the Star Burst (beef, sausage, pepperoni, onion, mushrooms and green pepper). Deep dish pizzas are available, too, but those should never be ordered for carry out. They just doesn't travel well ... trust us.

Polish

Polonia: 1900 Blalock, 713-464-9900. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$ If Houston can boast only one Polish restaurant, it's a good thing that it's a darn good one. The goulash is grand, the potato pancakes are well-executed and the dining room is inviting. Ignore the awful strip center setting as it's only scary on the outside.

Pubs

The Bull & Bear: 11980 Westheimer, 281-496-6655. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Fans of soccer and rugby often gather here to cheer on their teams. Dark and deliciously Irish in spirit and appearance, it boasts the requisite big-screen televisions, no-nonsense dart boards and Black & Tans poured by a friendly bar staff. What's surprising is the scope of Irish owner Tommy O'Reilly's menu. There is, of course, traditional pub fare such as fish and chips, bangers and mash and steak-and-mushroom pie. But you also will find London broil, lamb chops, shrimp scampi and grilled snapper.

Queen Vic: 2712 Richmond, 281-533-0022. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$ Craft beers and finely crafted British/Indian fare (the chutney flight alone is worth a stop) make this a pub to seek out. The deep red dining room with its exposed brick and polished woodwork feels flush with promise of a special night.

The Red Lion: 2316 S. Shepherd, 713-782-3030. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Red Lion is a bit of an upscale pub, perfect for its location on the outskirts of River Oaks and Upper Kirby. The drinks aren't cheap but the atmosphere is entirely unique to the Houston scene. Where most pubs are possessed of a casual quality, Red Lion can feel almost aristocratic but always warm. A wide selection of whiskeys and good beer are the draw.

The Public House: 22758 Westheimer Parkway in Katy, 281-395-3473. Pub grub gets gourmet flourishes at this modern public house that yearns to be all things to all folks. Hence the WiFi, the big screens and the dart boards. You also have to be a bit of explorer to find the place. It's tucked into a hidden corner of Villagio Town Center.

Seafood

Captain Benny's Half Shell Oyster Bar: Find the nearest location at captbennys.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ It's fun to eat on the water, even when it's just aboard one of Captain Benny's land-locked faux oyster boats. The value priced seafood joint let's you have your way — broiled or fried — and they make easy to add on a few fried shrimp or catfish to any meal.

Danton's Gulf Coast Kitchen: 4611 Montrose, 713-807-8883. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ We love the black and white dining room with its warm wood hues and smartly nostalgic fishing photos. The food is great and we haven't found another Houston kitchen that knows what a debris po'boy should be. Arguably the best gumbo in town.

Goode Co. Seafood: 10211 Katy Freeway, 713-464-7933; 2621 Westpark, 713-523-7154. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ Gulf Coast seafood cooked with care (if not much flourish) is the focus at these typically casual Goode restaurants. Inquire about off-the-menu specials or try the mesquite-grilled catfish smothered in etouffee. Also unique on the menu: shrimp tamales. The dining room at the Katy Freeway restaurant feels more upscale, and there's frequently live music on weekends in the lounge.

Landry's Seafood: Find the nearest location at landrysseafood.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ Tilman Fertitta built his restaurant empire on the back of this Cajun seafood emporium. Its many fans appreciate the kitchen's skill with the classics: Oysters Rockefeller, seafood gumbo and stuffed flounder topped with crawfish etouffee.

Reef: 2600 Travis, 713-526-8282. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$$ Bryan Caswell's first — and still best — restaurant rarely disappoints. Seafood is the star of the show, but we're fans of his unfussy apps and sides, including fried mac and cheese, beef sliders and sweet-potato ravioli. The dining room is lovely, but grab a spot at the bar for a truly fun night.

Tommy's Restaurant & Oyster Bar: 2555 Bay Area Blvd., 281-480-2221. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$$ With its modern dining room and a well-trained (and warm) staff, this restaurant can deliver a memorable meal. The Gulf Coast/Southern Louisiana fare is pricey but you're paying for quality steaks and seafood presented by a kitchen that knows its stuff. Try the crude-colored seafood gumbo, the buttery pecan-crusted Redfish or crab-topped fried green tomatoes.

This Is It Soul Food: 2712 Blodgett, 713-521-2920. Open daily for breakfast (except Sundays), lunch and dinner. $$ This humble spot offers traditional African-American soul food — smothered chicken, ham hocks and beef short ribs — at reasonable prices. If you miss the old-fashioned desserts your grandma made, This Is It has some of the best. Try the divine tea cakes or the banana pudding.

Rioja: 11920 Westheimer, 713-249-1727. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$-$$$ Thanks to the smart, passionate attentions of young Spanish chef-owner Ignacio Fonseca and his partner, Luis Acosta, Houston finally has a tapas restaurant that is consistent and classic, with wines to match. Not only is Rioja a wonderful addition to its westside neighborhood, it's also a destination restaurant for anyone who cares about food and wine.

Steakhouses

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse: 5061 Westheimer, 713-355-2600. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday-Sunday. $$$$ Located inside the bustling Galleria and part of a small high-end chain, Del Frisco's is all about details. The experience includes attentive service (starting with its crack management team), high-quality ingredients in the hands of a veteran kitchen and a menu of comfort foods that you want to eat.

Killen's Steakhouse: 2804 S. Main in Pearland, 281-485-0844. $$$-$$$$ Open for dinner Monday-Saturday. This lovely oasis of civility built by Chef Ronnie Killen certainly is worth seeking out. It may be the most casual fine dining room on the Gulf Coast. While the steaks are the stars, we remember the featured players most vividly: the appetizer of fried asparagus topped with lump crab; the beef tomato salad with bleu cheese and basil; the dreamy creamy spinach; and, for dessert, a crème brûlée bread pudding that's a mouth orgy.

Laurenzo's Prime Rib: 4412 Washington, 713-880-5111. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$$ The handsome dining room in this clubby but comfortable restaurant is decorated with framed sports memorabilia. The menu is dominated by manly fare: prime rib (check out the carving station just past the hostess stand), marinated rib eyes, burgers with bacon and chiles and racks of pork ribs.

Pappas Bros. Steakhouse: 5839 Westheimer, 713-780-7352. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday. $$$$ In a room as dark and plush and gleaming as a vintage railway car, big men partake of big dry-aged steaks that are among the city's best, along with big-ticket wines that include interesting premium choices by the glass. The handsome dining counter is a great spot to dawdle over the definitive shrimp rémoulade while watching the scene — and the valiant line cooks.

Perry's Steakhouse & Grille: Find the nearest location at perrysteakhouse.com. Hours vary by location. $$$$ Old-school service with an attention for detail elevates the dining experience at this Texas-born, upscale chain. The menu is old-school, too: seafood towers, wedge salads, creamed spinach and flaming desserts. Tip: two can share the signature dish, an enormous pork chop that is carved tableside.

Taste of Texas: 10505 Interstate 10 West, 713-932-6901. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$$-$$$$ The best feature of this outrageously popular good-value steak house is that you can personally instruct the butcher to cut a rib-eye to your desired thickness. There are good breads, side dishes and grilled shrimp; also a distinguished wine list.

Vic & Anthony's: 1510 Texas, 713-228-1111. Open for lunch on Fridays and dinner daily. $$$$ Manly steaks, sides that could feed a family and the best calamari on the planet. Even though this fancy Landry's restaurant is across from Minute Maid Park, the dress code is always enforced. If you ask nice, though, they sometimes allow even ballpark garb at the bar.

Texas comfort fare

Beaver's: 2310 Decatur, 713-864-2328. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$ This idiosyncratic take on an icehouse offers some seriously good meats — smoked sausage, pork ribs and Akaushi beef meatloaf — and plenty of non-carnivore options such as a grapefruit and jicama salad and a creamy tomato-topped mac and cheese. Behind the bar some of the city's top mixologists concoct cocktails with a chef's eye for flavor. Awesome patio.

Goode Co. Taqueria: 4902 Kirby, 713-520-9153. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Trendy restaurants come and go but this Houston icon is still the go-to cafe for comforting Tex-Mex and hefty, mesquite-grilled burgers. The patio often fills with families on sunny weekend afternoons. Grab a long-neck, order some queso and some grilled catfish and kick back. Everyone else is.

Haven: 2502 Algerian Way, 713-581-6101. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner only Saturday and brunch Sunday. $$-$$$ Chef Randy Evans showcases his farm-to-table philosophy in this dreamy contemporary dining room. Try the assertive wild boar chili, the comely pork chops with sauerkraut or just a perfectly fried egg. This guy is gifted ... you can just taste it.

Underbelly: 1100 Westheimer, 713-528-9800. $$-$$$ Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. Chef Chris Shepherd stages the "story of Houston food" on each plate at this Montrose hot spot. So what's that mean? Think Korean braised goat and dumplings, Vietnamese-style meatballs and slow-cooked pot roast.

Tex-Mex

Alicia's Mexican Grille: Find the nearest location at aliciasmexicangrille.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ The grilled beef dishes, vivid salsas and stand-up margaritas make this colorful restaurant one of the best Tex-Mex spots around.

El Real: 1201 Westheimer, 713-524-1201. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ This temple of Tex-Mex was built by Bryan Caswell and Bill Floyd — creators of Reef and Little Bigs — in collaboration with cookbook author and restaurant critic Robb Walsh. Housed in the restored Tower Theater, the restaurant serves vintage fare such as puffy tacos and cheese enchiladas topped with chili gravy.

El Tiempo: Find the nearest location eltiempocantina.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$-$$$ Here's the thing: The chow at El Tiempo is outstanding — deliciously charred fajitas, pillowy flour tacos, amazing salsa. The margaritas are potent and tasty, which is a rare combination. But it's expensive. Like, 22 bucks for a half-pound of fajitas expensive.

Irma's: 22 N. Chenevert, 713-222-0767. Open for breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday, open for dinner Thursday-Saturday. Irma Galvan's legendary downtown lunch spot is known for her comforting Mexican sauces and stews, her gracious hospitality and her homemade lemonade. Sit down in the tiny dining room and you're likely to bump elbows with judges, city council members and other movers-and-shakers. But pay attention to your server. Irma has never handed out menus. Never will. And, if you're on a budget, ask the price before you order. Irma's serves high quality fare and the prices reflect that.

Molina's Cantina: 4720 Washington, 713-862-0013. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ In the vast salsa sea of Tex-Mex joints in Houston, Molina's gets bonus points for authenticity (you gotta try the chili) and atmosphere (the palapa-covered patio is the perfect place to sip margaritas). And speaking of salsa, you'll be presented with two reds. Insiders know to ask for the green. (You're welcome.)

Original Ninfa's on Navigation: 2704 Navigation Blvd., 713-228-1175. Open for lunch and dinner daily. As the name implies, this is where it all started. If you believe the legend, Mama Ninfa was (is) the patron saint of Tex-Mex. In her tiny kitchen, she cranked out the world's first fajitas. Greatly expanded in recent years to include a real parking lot and large patio deck, the restaurant still manages to draw hordes who wait patiently for a table. Some of the waiters have been serving Mama's sizzingly plates of fajitas for more than 20 years. Just ask.

Soto's Cantina: 10609 Grant Road, 281-955-5667. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ This family-owned Tex-Mex spot on the northside features a cheerful dining room, well-prepared classics such as chiles rellenos, pork tamales in chili gravy and shrimp in a rich chipotle sauce.

Spanish Village: 4720 Almeda, 713-523-2861. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $-$$ It's simple Tex-Mex fare — enchiladas, fajitas and guacamole — served in a colorful and festive setting for more than 50 years. More than a few Houstonians admit their love of Spanish Village is fanned by the house margarita. The slushy magaritas are tart, lively and — yes — intoxicating.

Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen: 12637 Westheimer, 281-679-8300; 6401 Woodway, 713-334-7295. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Sylvia Casares Copeland's gracious hospitality has made her two restaurants very popular. Her refined plates feature only the freshest ingredients and surprisingly complex flavors. Among her dozen enchilada offerings: squash and corn, crab and grilled pork with a fiery red sauce.

Thai

Kanomwan: 1011 Telephone, 713-923-4230. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday and dinner only Saturday. $$ This is one of the least atmospheric restaurants in the city, and the service is perfunctory at best. But the fiery Thai food pulls no punches and attracts a loyal clientele. Coconut, lemon grass, basil and chiles are employed to magical effect. The soups are especially notable.

Nidda Thai Cuisine: 1226 Westheimer, 713-522-8895. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Don't let the strip center location or tacky lingerie store neighbor put you off. This small restaurant is turning out some of the city's best Thai fare. The wait staff is incredibly friendly and if you come back — make that when you come back — don't be surprised if they remember you.

Thai Gourmet: 6324 Richmond, 713-780-7955. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ This chunk of Richmond's once famous strip has seen much better days, but Thai Gourmet may be the most consistent kitchen in town. We've never been disappointed and we're quite sure we've ordered everything on the menu. Don't miss the spicy cheese rolls and the Triple Spicy Fish (if you can stand the heat). Chef owner Toon makes frequent forays from the kitchen to check on guests, and her husband Kru Pong sometimes treats guests to demonstration of martials arts by his students from the neighboring Thai boxing school.

Vieng Thai: 6929 Long Point Road, 713-688-9910. Open for lunch and dinner daily. There's a reason chefs and wine professionals dote on this unpretentious restaurant on a scruffy stretch of Long Point. The flavors are exhilarating, it's BYOB and the price is right. Plus there's a quirky charm to the provincial-Thai living room atmosphere that may lead to sudden outbursts of karaoke.

Vegetarian

A Moveable Feast: 9341 Katy Freeway, 713-365-0368. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $-$$ This vegetarian friendly (but not exclusively) cafe has been serving Houstonians for more than 40 years. We're fans of the spinach and mushroom enchiladas and anything the kitchen does with tofu.

Green Seed Vegan Cafe: 4320 Almeda, 713-487-8346. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $ Panini and raw salads are the specialty at this juice bar. Service can be mind-numbingly slow but you just keep thinking about how good you'll feel after a visit.

b10 Vietnamese Cafe: 7515 Westheimer, 713-782-7275; 9308 Bellaire, 713-988-7275. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $ This small family-operated chain takes its name from its most popular menu item, the b10: a classic grilled pork sandwich. The restaurant offers more than a dozen classic and specialty Vietnamese sandwiches, as well as pho and salads.

Crawfish & Noodles: 11360 Bellaire, 281-988-8098. Open daily. $$ One of the city's burgeoning number of Vietnamese/Cajun combos, this popular restaurant serves up steaming bags of crawfish and crabs, as well as noodle dishes and fried seafood.

Huynh: 912 St. Emanuel, 713-224-8964. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $-$$ This is home-style Vietnamese cooking at its best, from stunning chargrilled pork soft rolls, to vivid duck salad, to flash-fried chicken with crushed rice, cabbage pickle and a frizzly fried egg. Major bang for the buck.

Mai's Restaurant: 3403 Milam, 713-520-5300. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$ Iconic Mai's claims to be Houston's original Vietnamese restaurant. We're not arguing for fear of being forever denied Mai's addictive Cha Gio (Vietnamese egg rolls) and delicious crab bisque. The menu may have seemed exotic when Mai's first opened in 1978, but today it offers the Vietnamese equivalent of comfort food: Bo Luc Lac (garlicky slices of beef served with a lemon sauce), Cua Lot Rang Muoi (fried softshell crab with garlic and onions); and Thit Kho To (thinly sliced pork simmered in oyster sauce in a clay pot). A complete remodel following a fire in 2010 has made the once scruffy dining room cool, sleek and inviting.

Pho Binh: Find the nearest location at phobinh.com. Hours vary by location. $ Considered the best pho restaurants in Houston, this small, family-operated chain is best discovered at the humble Beamer Road store, which is located in a trailer. Go and be charmed.

Que Huong: 8200 Wilcrest, 281-495-2814. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $-$$ Like many Vietnamese restaurants, this west-end diner has a menu featuring more than 300 items. Your best bet is to take along several friends and order as many dishes as your pocketbooks and bellies will allow. Don't miss the five spice chicken.

Wine bars

Crisp Wine, Beer & Eatery: 2220 Bevis, 713-360-0222. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$ The folks behind Pub Fiction and Celtic Gardens have opened this contemporary dining room in the Heights neighborhood known as Shady Acres. It boasts a 5,000-square-foot family-friendly patio and one of those swell enomatic wine systems. A separate take-out space offers not only food to go, but also wine by the bottle and growlers of craft brews.

Plonk: 1214 W. 43rd, 713-290-1070. Open for dinner daily. $$ Plucky little Plonk is a casual gathering spot in slow-paced Garden Oaks. The food is comforting and exciting all at once.

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