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Why havent CC and other leading manufacturers started doing watercooled options for their hi end motors? Not the full lineup of motors, but just the hi end of their products. They may not be used in racing cause of the added weight, but it would be nice for people like us that do a lot of hi speed runs.

Because they know if you need water cooling for a land car, your doing something wrong. With the advance in lipo technology there is no need for water cooling.

I just ran the black can 1717 with a XL2 ESC on 8S on a car the same size as the XO-1 at 112MPH on the first test.....and i had no temp issues...... water cooling is pointless unless your doing something wrong......

Why havent CC and other leading manufacturers started doing watercooled options for their hi end motors? Not the full lineup of motors, but just the hi end of their products. They may not be used in racing cause of the added weight, but it would be nice for people like us that do a lot of hi speed runs.

Watercooling is a novel idea & it's going to be interesting to see what RC_SPEED_JUNKIE comes up with but it's largely redundant because fans are readily available (for those interested in cooling an 'overloaded' system) & as ducati777 has highlighted conventional air cooling is generally fine for comfortable set ups

In respect to speed run vehicles - most people are divided into two schools of thought...

1. Run a reliable setup that generates huge amounts of torque. Typically low KV motors & large voltage - not much cooling required
2. Unstable setup with (comparably) that generates speed through RPM. Typically moderate to high KV motors & large voltage - make a few passes & stop to let the system cool down

RC_SPEED_JUNKIE is fitting into the second group by increasing his voltage & subsequently RPM. Watercooling may work but I predict it will be fragile & maybe less efficient than the NACA duct already in place or a couple of fans?

I can't recall seeing any 100+mph vehicles that use any form of fan or liquid cooling, it just increases the acceleration & braking distances

Watercooling is a novel idea & it's going to be interesting to see what RC_SPEED_JUNKIE comes up with but it's largely redundant because fans are readily available (for those interested in cooling an 'overloaded' system) & as ducati777 has highlighted conventional air cooling is generally fine for comfortable set ups

In respect to speed run vehicles - most people are divided into two schools of thought...

1. Run a reliable setup that generates huge amounts of torque. Typically low KV motors & large voltage - not much cooling required2. Unstable setup with (comparably) that generates speed through RPM. Typically moderate to high KV motors & large voltage - make a few passes & stop to let the system cool down

RC_SPEED_JUNKIE is fitting into the second group by increasing his voltage & subsequently RPM. Watercooling may work but I predict it will be fragile & maybe less efficient than the NACA duct already in place or a couple of fans?

I can't recall seeing any 100+mph vehicles that use any form of fan or liquid cooling, it just increases the acceleration & braking distances

I think you missed my point entirely, as we speak..........I have a car same size as the XO-1 (inch shorter actually) Using the black can 1717 from a XO-1, with a XL2 ESC........ON 8S doing 112MPH with no HEAT ISSUES WHAT SO EVER. Yesterday was my first test run im jumping up the gearing to push into 120+MPH and i can tell you first hand there is NO HEAT ISSUE. The OP is building basically a novility thing and that's fine if he wants too buts its not needed with his set up at all.....

My main point is as his car sits, he can run 8S and not have heat issues......I JUST DID IT LAST NIGHT

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I think you missed my point entirely, as we speak..........I have a car same size as the XO-1 (inch shorter actually) Using the black can 1717 from a XO-1, with a XL2 ESC........ON 8S doing 112MPH with no HEAT ISSUES WHAT SO EVER. Yesterday was my first test run im jumping up the gearing to push into 120+MPH and i can tell you first hand there is NO HEAT ISSUE. The OP is building basically a novility thing and that's fine if he wants too buts its not needed with his set up at all.....

My main point is as his car sits, he can run 8S and not have heat issues......I JUST DID IT LAST NIGHT

EXCELLENT!!!!

I wasn't responding to your post & made general comments about speed run vehicles. If you can run 8S through a 1717 - congratulations!!!! but no need to shout about it

Last time i check there's no shout button on the keyboard........you specifically claimed speedjunkie was falling into the second catagory in you post which was simply not true. No need to get bent out of shape just because you where wrong.....some people.....

Last time i check there's no shout button on the keyboard........you specifically claimed speedjunkie was falling into the second catagory in you post which was simply not true. No need to get bent out of shape just because you where wrong.....some people.....

I'm not sure how I'm wrong, I made general comments to describe different approaches

In the second scenario increasing voltage to increase RPM is what is being done here. The stock setup runs lower voltage...ergo; what I have said is correct & I made no assertion about whether it would be hot or not

I'm not sure how I'm wrong, I made general comments to describe different approaches

In the second scenario increasing voltage to increase RPM is what is being done here. The stock setup runs lower voltage...ergo; what I have said is correct & I made no assertion about whether it would be hot or not

Using caps is generally considered shouting in forums - FYI

I believe in your second classification, you said that higher kv, and higher voltage is employed, causing more heat. I think miami is saying that isnt the case cause only the voltage is increased in his setup, not the kv. I believe this is just a simple missunderstanding gentlemen...

I keep thinking it might be possible to put the 4x4 slipper in, which would open up the 36 tooth mod1 spur... but its going to take some trickery as things aren't the same size.

I think this is the next step, revo spec slipper. I think it is necessary to try and make the car a bit more stable at speed before we really push the top end up further. I think shocks are the next step with that. There is no droop in the current setup, so as soon as the car gets light, the tires are off the ground.....

Right, if we can make the 4Slash slipper fit, in theory maybe we can get a ERBE spec slipper with aluminum pads in there. Its curious that Traxxas went with a cush drive instead of one of their existing slipper setups.

This is just speculating.... but I figure at speed the car generates downforce, which makes the tires stick, which means you'd have to run the slipper much tighter than you'd expect. Maybe so tight that they found themselves just cranking it down full tight, and then blowing spur gears.

Can you name another car that uses a cush drive?

BUT..... then they make the cush drive so large that we can't fit a smaller, or ANY of the existing spurs made by Traxxas. That frustrates me, because this car is a real departure from Traxxas's history of making cars with transferrable parts. I'm still grumpy that the better hexes on the XO-1 seem delibrately designed so they can't be transferred to any other models.

I think the shocks are ok, the GTR shocks are a proven design. You could always run the variable dampers... although I'm not sure what the advantage would be.

Droop is an interesting question. Again, the design of the XO-1 is tying our hands here. There is very little room for droop, as the car's ride height is next to unadjustable. Curved A arms.... they would let us set a much wider range of ride height, but it'd also allow us to run aftermarket tires, which Traxxas is set on making sure we don't do.

I havent tinkered with the chassis of the xo to much yet, but that will change since I have a lot of repairs to do. Is there something besides the fully extended shock that keeps the a arms from drooping? Will the a arms droop further if the shocks are removed? (i am at work)

There is more room in front... but in the rear the moulding from the difuser ducts limit the down travel of the A-arms. You can flip the arms and get a bit more droop, but the alignment just didn't look right to me.

Also I am building the water cooling system mostly becuase I want too because I like to tinker as much as drive so I'm just having fun with my car in my way

I will still have the cooling duct plus fans the main reason for the water cooling is gonna be mostly so I don't have to remove the high speed gearing to run the car around at lower speeds as I will also probably have some custom gearing made and would rather have my car designed to run however I want to run it without pulling it apart Depending on how I want to drive it that day

I am still excited to see the completed build, and videos of it in operation. I think it will exceed the stock cooling performance, but by how much is the question. There has been chatter from castle about 10s and 12s esc in the works. So this thread may become much more relavent in the near future.

I am still excited to see the completed build, and videos of it in operation. I think it will exceed the stock cooling performance, but by how much is the question. There has been chatter from castle about 10s and 12s esc in the works. So this thread may become much more relavent in the near future.

They can't even get the xl2 to run on 8s with out burning up they going to go to 10/12s what a joke

I don't doubt that I can run the car without it all I hoped to gain was low speed cooling traxxas says not to run the car for a extended period of time at low speeds with the high speed gearing or it will over heat. I doubt I will have to worry about that im also going to run a bigger pinion gear wich will cause more heat and lastly it's not unneeded weight considering guys are stuffing wheel waits on these cars just to run 100-110 I want to hit 130

I'm running a xl2 with 8s on one of my xo-1 no problem at all now the first xl2 cough on fire. Tires are going to be more of a problem than heat

Its cool what you are doing but point less really sorry

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

So were is the vids of these 8s xo-1's everyone supposedly has but yet not one vid anywhere of anyone actually runnin this car on 8s not saying you haven't done it I just want to see it one thread I read a guy says his xo-1 pulls the front wheels on take off I'd like to see that I have a awsome idea for a carbon fiber wheelie bar but it will cost roughly 90 dollars to do it

It's not that I'm gonna its just if I am just messin around drifting or whatever I don't have to worry about it getting hot

Swapping pinion gears on site is easier than dealing with water pumps, radiators, tanks ECT. It takes 1 minuet to swap gears simple as that....... besides with all the blow overs you see all over youtube don't you think water in lipo powered car is a bad idea?!!? if your hose's ever come loose, your pump cracks, or your reserve tank cracks.............things won't be pretty.

You wanna go fast use the 34T, u feel like drifting drop in 15T or what ever. The car will stay cool, your asking for trouble with this set up.

So were is the vids of these 8s xo-1's everyone supposedly has but yet not one vid anywhere of anyone actually runnin this car on 8s not saying you haven't done it I just want to see it one thread I read a guy says his xo-1 pulls the front wheels on take off I'd like to see that I have a awsome idea for a carbon fiber wheelie bar but it will cost roughly 90 dollars to do it

I have a XL2 XO-1 but don't have the batteries yet. 6s is insane with the XL2. I can't imagine what its gonna be like on 8s.

Swapping pinion gears on site is easier than dealing with water pumps, radiators, tanks ECT. It takes 1 minuet to swap gears simple as that....... besides with all the blow overs you see all over youtube don't you think water in lipo powered car is a bad idea?!!? if your hose's ever come loose, your pump cracks, or your reserve tank cracks.............things won't be pretty.

You wanna go fast use the 34T, u feel like drifting drop in 15T or what ever. The car will stay cool, your asking for trouble with this set up.

I disagree. What's the difference in running lets say a slash in the rain it through puddles with a lipo battery. You think the battery is gonna stay dry? Me thinks no. And people do it all the time.