Ponzu sauce, I now know, is the dipping sauce served with edamame beans.

Somewhere in a town called Brixton, somewhere in the naughties, I had my first glorious pop of edamame beans, and would spend the next ten years searching for that incredible dipping sauce, the likes of which I had never encountered before.

It felt like London’s best kept secret for yonks, time and again I was fobbed off with soy, a cheap imitation at best.