Ok folks, I figured I'd do a walkthrough of how I make these. Maybe some folk will give it a go.

Select sawblade and bend it to ensure it hasn't lost it's temper. If it doesn't return to straight, toss it.

Next, i cover one side of the blade with masking tape and draw what I'm thinking.

Using a dremel with cutoff wheel I cut the clip.

Take the old grinder and shape the tang.

Now you work with bare hands to ensure the blade doesn't get hot. Dunk it in water every time it feels warm.

Rounding the belly.

Viola, blade blank.

Angle grinder mounted with some allthread is how i rough in the blade bevels.
Simply draw the blade across the disk like you were sharpening a knife.
Continually inspect the blade and keep it cool.

At this point, I switch to my cheap belt sander.

60 grit. Refine the grind and clean the flats

Once you get it evened up and the edge is about as thick as a hair, switch to 120 grit and refine the grinds and blend the transition from the bevel to the flats until you get a full length burr.

Now is when I bring the spine down to the point. If you profile the point during the grind you may round off your point.

Sanding pad to remove the burr and the blade is ready for a handle.

Antler , leather, and copper is selected for a quick handle.

Slot the antler guard with the dremel cutoff wheel and drill the crap out of the back part.

Fit's good. Notice I made the tang slimmer and ground notches in the tang for the epoxy.

Everything fits and is ready for epoxy.

Mix your 2 part 2 ton epoxy very well. Remember it has never been together before.

Assembly with epoxy between everything. Get as much in there as you can.

All clamped up and will be ready to the next day.

I have no photos of sanding the handle. You can use the flap disk on the angle grinder, a regular metal working grinder, files, rasps, whatever to shape it. After shaping, sand it to your desired finish.

NOTES- The temper is never removed from the blade so hardening and heat treating is unnecessary.

If you can find them, try the Bosch brand "Demolition" blades, those things are by far the thickest strongest sawzall blades I've ever used, they are pricey but I think they'd work a LOT better than your average run of the mill sawzall blade.
The blades are so thick and strong that they rarely bend, almost dangerous to use in a sawzall because of the vicious kickback if the blade binds in whatever you're cutting.

Ok folks, I figured I'd do a walkthrough of how I make these. Maybe some folk will give it a go.

Select sawblade and bend it to ensure it hasn't lost it's temper. If it doesn't return to straight, toss it.

Next, i cover one side of the blade with masking tape and draw what I'm thinking.

Using a dremel with cutoff wheel I cut the clip.

Take the old grinder and shape the tang.

Now you work with bare hands to ensure the blade doesn't get hot. Dunk it in water every time it feels warm.

Rounding the belly.

Viola, blade blank.

Angle grinder mounted with some allthread is how i rough in the blade bevels.
Simply draw the blade across the disk like you were sharpening a knife.
Continually inspect the blade and keep it cool.

At this point, I switch to my cheap belt sander.

60 grit. Refine the grind and clean the flats

Once you get it evened up and the edge is about as thick as a hair, switch to 120 grit and refine the grinds and blend the transition from the bevel to the flats until you get a full length burr.

Now is when I bring the spine down to the point. If you profile the point during the grind you may round off your point.

Sanding pad to remove the burr and the blade is ready for a handle.

Antler , leather, and copper is selected for a quick handle.

Slot the antler guard with the dremel cutoff wheel and drill the crap out of the back part.

Fit's good. Notice I made the tang slimmer and ground notches in the tang for the epoxy.

Everything fits and is ready for epoxy.

Mix your 2 part 2 ton epoxy very well. Remember it has never been together before.

Assembly with epoxy between everything. Get as much in there as you can.

All clamped up and will be ready to the next day.

I have no photos of sanding the handle. You can use the flap disk on the angle grinder, a regular metal working grinder, files, rasps, whatever to shape it. After shaping, sand it to your desired finish.

NOTES- The temper is never removed from the blade so hardening and heat treating is unnecessary.

2 ton epoxy is stronger that any pin or bolt out there.

These thin saw blades make excellent fillet knives.

Fantastic job brother!!!

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