"The taste of the individuals in this area comes from their experiences during slavery, the food that is eaten is of poor quality and rich in calories.

"The food that is eaten is highly satisfying, highly filling but the food... that they eat in general is not balanced.

"The slaves had to eat the poorest quality food - they were maintained cheaply, therefore through years of eating that type of food, the people not only in this area, but in areas up and down the Mississippi River and where people migrated from have the same taste in food."

Ticking time bomb

For Regina Ginn, head of the state Office for Healthy Schools, the problem is not of the past, but of the future.

Nationally the problem of childhood obesity is seen by some as a ticking time bomb that the US has been slow to address.

Again, problems are particularly acute in Mississippi.

"We are having to take baby steps," Ms Ginn told the BBC.

"We want our schools and our communities to buy into the idea that we must change our environment, but that will not happen overnight."

Dr McCune is finishing a three-year study on obesity in middle schools in Jefferson. He fears the rate will be higher than anyone anticipates.

"I see people I first met as children having health problems now because of their weight, and I am afraid that unless we change our attitudes then the situation will only be worse for their children."