Description

An initial very steep boulder problem crux gains incredible rock above. This pitch is one of the best, of any grade, at Eagle Peak.

Location

This route climbs incredible rock on a wall on the far right side of Eagle Peak. This wall/section is located to to the right of Lucky Stars and above and right of the White Arete. You can access it by rappel from the top or climb up and right 50 feet from the anchors on White Arete. There are two routes on the left side of this red/brown wall. They are "Bait and Switch" 12d that follows the left hand seam and "Boots On The Ground" 12b that goes up the overhang boulder problem to the slightly overhung wall above. Both climbs start from the same ledge with bolt anchors. Top out or rappel down.

Protection

Leavitator - did you add bolted anchors at the base of this wall where the climb begins? I was up at the belay for "Fly Away Roof" this past weekend and was trying to see where the anchors at the base of the orange wall were located? I could see a logical ledge but the anchors are not visible. Just want to make sure before I go out again and rap in to try these routes.

Great rock for sure! Reminiscent of Hueco Tanks in a way, with the smooth texture and the scalloped dishes and holes. A fun onsight challenge with no chalk on key holds since you need to go for it, especially at the start but above too. Nice addition!