Taurus Emissions Code

I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Two weeks ago, I had some engine and brake work completed to ready the car for the Virginia Safety Inspection. The engine work was for a lit Engine Check Light. The shop said the diagnostics showed a blocked valve (not sure what kind) and a vaccuum leak under the maniford cover. We had the work done. A week later, the Engine Check Light came back on. I took it back and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it and reset the light. It passed the safety inspection, but failed the Virginia Emissions Test. The examiner stated the diagnostics printout listed a code P1131, but didn't know what that meant. Anyone know what that code means? I understand manufacturers must offer an eight-year warranty on certain emissions parts but don't know if this code falls under that category. Any help would be appreciated...

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The code reader is running the test - engine and selanoids respond and so forth - but no codes output - code reader light stays on (no blink). Service engine light is on and comes back on immediately after battery is disconnected and re-connected - still no codes readable at all. This is 3.8 liter V6, auto transmission with overdrive, 113k miles. I just finished replacing left front axle - no engine check light before that. I added trans fluid - a little over the full mark. The car drives ok and engine runs ok. I am baffled - the cars diagonistic computer seems to be work - but it will not output any codes. Any suggestions on the next step to take??

:confuse: :confuse: our 96 taurus started cutting out found engine code of #4 misfire checked coil pak -ok- replaced plug wires still cutting out speedometer bouncing sverely at same time, no codes reading now, it is intermittant problem, sometimes speedometer bounces without noticible engine reaction. any help out there?

I bought a 2000 SE model used about a year ago. Recently the car started sputtering, smelled of gas in the cabin, and eventually stopped moving. It idles, but just as soon as you give it gas or put it in gear, it dies. It reaks even more of gas. I replaced the Coil Pack, spark plugs, and MAF sensor. Took it to the dealership and they suggested the Mass Air Flow and sparks to be replaced and then tow it back for another diagnostic (chaching for Adamson Ford) to see what else it might be. I'm thinking o2 sensors or fuel injectors. Before I drop the $600+ to replace those could I get some advice???

On my 2002 Ford Taurus SES, the Emissions/Engine light stays on.I checked the Fuel cap and made sure it was on tight as suggested by the Owners Manual and I have about a quarter tank of gas in it. It is running good with no signs of trouble and has 45,000 miles on it.

I went to Advance Auto Parts and put the code tester in the outlet under the dashboard with the engine off and no key in ingnition.

It gave a reading of:DTC (Codes)

P1135Manufacurer Contrl.Fuel Air Metering

DTC Pending(Codes)

No Faults Detected

Can I still drive the car until this issue is fixed or will I be doing damage to the vehicle by driving it?

i have a 96 ford taurus and it failed the mission test. The computer is saying that it is not ready. The garage said that it might be loosing its memory. The fuses is good and the battery does not drop below 10 volts at start up. what else can I do ?

My emission light came on after filling up for the 2nd time with E85 Gas. Has any one else had this problem and will it go away. The light is yellow so my mechanic said its just a warning but I'm just wanting to see if anyone else experenced this. The first time I filled up with E85 it was only 1/2 tank and the rest was gas but the 2nd time was another 1/2 tank of E85 so now its mostly E85 and then the light came on about 15 miles later. If anyone else has had this problem please let me know.

I have a 2001 Sable LS Premium Wagon. Duratec engine, 90K miles. It has been mostly trouble free (until March). I had a "Check engine" light come on back in March, right before I had to get an emissions test (WA state). I spent almost $800 getting that fixed, and yes, the price was REALLY high, in my opinion. It was an EGR valve, and a couple of vent tubes. I had no choice. (as most of you know, Troubleshooting this stuff on your own is near impossible!)

A couple of weeks ago, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I checked the owners manual, and it stated that there "should not be any driveability issues" associated with the light. A few days later, the engine started to idle a little high, then it will almost die at idle. It runs fine at anything over an idle. No issues at normal speeds, highway included. I took the car to CSK, and used a code reader on it. I got the following codes: P0171: System too lean (Bank 1); P0174: System too lean (Bank 2); P0300: Random Misfire detected. The guys at CSK were stumped. (of course). They suggested that I change the plugs, to start. I changed the plugs, with no change whatsoever. I have disconnected the battery to try and reset the computer, also. The light came back on within 5 minutes.

When I took the upper manifold off to change the plugs, I did notice that the throttle plate looked "gunked up", kind of a "varnish" looking deposit, like you'd see on an old carb. This seemed odd, since (as far as I know) all the fuel goes into the manifold well beyond that throttle plate. I didn't clean it, BTW.

Any suggestions (besides taking it to a garage!) would be appreciated. I can't afford another trip to the garage, right now.

Check for intake vacuum leaks.The car was dyno tested for emissions.What were the results in O2, HC, CO, NOX?O2 should be near zero.HC and CO should be at or near average for the class.NOX readings should be within the acceptable range since a new EGR was fitted.O2 sensors are major components determining lean or rich fuel conditions.I recently replaced Upstream Bank 2 O2 sensor with Bosch 15716 from Parts Authority for $42. OEM electrical connect. Should be replaced at 100k miles anyway.Bank 1 Upstream is difficult to access. Ford says remove upper intake manifold. I've checked 05 Sable and had the removal tool on with leverage from passenger side. That's what I will do if necessary. Soak the warm sensors with PB a catalytic penetrant 5 min two cycles.I disagree with near impossible. Easier. Buy a decent scan tool. If you can remove the upper air intake manifold you can handle the emissions system components. I also have the Ford shop manual. $45 on the net.

Thanks for the reply. This weekend, I cleaned the throttle body, and of course that didn't help. I checked the small, "hard" vacuum lines that go to the EGR and into the upper mainfold. They were good.I could still hear it "sucking air" from somewhere. I started running my hand under the manifold along the other lines (with the engine running), and I stuck my finger by one of the lines, the idle came up to normal. I could feel the vacuum really strong. It was a rip in a soft rubber elbow that is hooked into the bottom of the manifold, just behind the throttle body. The elbow is rubber, with a hard plastic pipe on the other end. The vacuum was so strong that it was collapsing the elbow, pinching it off. The hard plastic pipe runs to another rubber hose below the fuel injectors. There are no clamps on the hard plastic pipe. There is a heavy steel "pinch" type clamp holding the rubber elbow to the manifold. It was Saturday, and no dealers were open that late. I patched the rip with some weatherstrip glue and (gulp!) duct tape. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and put everything back together. The light hasn't come back on, and the car runs fine. I will go to the dealer and get the part, today. I had read somewhere that lean conditions are almost always vacuum related. Thanks again for the reply!atucker3

97 Ford Taurus 106 k It has service engine soon light on,I went for state inspection and it failed emissions they told me it couldnt get a reading has anyone else had this problem or can anyone help me with this problem is and how can i fix it i'd appreciate someones opinion or input....Thanks

Upstream sensors are critical as they are primary in fuel injection timing.Downstream sensors verify that emissions are within tolerance.Upstream sensors are located on the front and rear exhaust manifolds where the cylinders converge. Looks like a large spark plug but is aluminum with 4 wires and a connector. The rear bank same but not easy to see.Disconnect the front bank sensor first. Squeeze to release catch. Do it with left hand. Takes some tries to unplug. Reason left hand is the rear bank connector is accessible left hand unless removal of the upper air intake manifold. I've done it on a 05 Duratec without removal.Use a 1/2 inch O2 sensor socket and rachet. Inexpensive deep socket with wire slot at auto store.Try cold w/o using max force. If it doesn't break, warm engine for 30 sec and apply a penetrant. Rear use a penetrant soaked sponge.High mileage engines can pose a removal problem. I've replaced several without a problem but.Add a little anti sieze to the new sensor threads. Make sure not on the tip. Snug tight like a spark plug and connect the plug.Bosch is my preference and OEM electrical connection.O2 sensor is primary for proper fuel and MPG. Those cars with Upstream sensors have a cat built into the exhaust pipe just below the sensor. Drive with a check engine warning light on due to fuel mixture beyond specs will burn out the cat. Extremely expensive to replace the upstream cat as it is cast into the exhaust pipe. In comparison, the upstream sensors are $50 - $80 each depending on the car.

did you ever find out for sure what was wrong and why it was giving you that message? I am having a similar problem with a 97 Mercury Sable. Car runs fine, but cannot get it to pass the NYS Inspection.