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Thank you right, I know. That's what I was after. This is the part that will stop 90% of the people. Wiring scares people sensless so why not take the mystery out of it and induce some confidence in the approach! Thanks for the compliments too.

Yeah, haha. I'm comfortable with wiring (electrical engineer), but I saw a lot of hand-waving when it came to wiring up the reverse rights. I was able to figure it out using WDS, but I wish I had seen your DIY first. Would have saved me tons of time!

Haha. Well, thanks for the offer, but I'll be changing both the engine and trans out for the S54 and S6S 420G once I'm done with the 5spd swap I'm doing for a friend.
Though, if you happen to have some Work VS-XX that'll fit a non-M, I'm open to trades.

Yeah, haha. I'm comfortable with wiring (electrical engineer), but I saw a lot of hand-waving when it came to wiring up the reverse rights. I was able to figure it out using WDS, but I wish I had seen your DIY first. Would have saved me tons of time!

Haha. Well, thanks for the offer, but I'll be changing both the engine and trans out for the S54 and S6S 420G once I'm done with the 5spd swap I'm doing for a friend.
Though, if you happen to have some Work VS-XX that'll fit a non-M, I'm open to trades.

Ahhh so now at least I've got a target to shoot at. You seriuosly dont konw - for the lst 4 years that wheel keeps me up a night!!!

Fantastic DIY..........you are the embodiment of a true fanatic and car enthusiast ......while i would not dream of doing a mod like that myself now ......I remember my days with Volkswagen Beetle parts all over the floor as i constantly eeked out more more life from the van engine i installed in my bug ......great times ...all power to you .....and the e46 Fanatics that will follow in your footsteps

Fantastic DIY..........you are the embodiment of a true fanatic and car enthusiast ......while i would not dream of doing a mod like that myself now ......I remember my days with Volkswagen Beetle parts all over the floor as i constantly eeked out more more life from the van engine i installed in my bug ......great times ...all power to you .....and the e46 Fanatics that will follow in your footsteps

Hahaha - I started getting into motors when I built a pancake to 120 whopping hp. Got my TypeIV Westy weekender to go up mountain passes at 80mph. I built 3 motors to keep that thing running and then installed a Mark Stephens Stage III into it. I sold it and bought my bimmer.

Yeah, haha. I'm comfortable with wiring (electrical engineer), but I saw a lot of hand-waving when it came to wiring up the reverse rights. I was able to figure it out using WDS, but I wish I had seen your DIY first. Would have saved me tons of time!

Haha. Well, thanks for the offer, but I'll be changing both the engine and trans out for the S54 and S6S 420G once I'm done with the 5spd swap I'm doing for a friend.
Though, if you happen to have some Work VS-XX that'll fit a non-M, I'm open to trades.

Hey,

What kinda trans did your friend have before the 5 speed swap (ZF/GM) ? If he/she had a ZF trans are they willing to sell it?

Very useful write-up, thank you a lot! Even though I am not going to swap my step by manual in the nearest future, this write up is still useful as DIY for rear main seal or auto trans removal.

I have a question, tho:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium

^ There is a slit at the bottom of the transmission that will allow you to use a screw driver and lever the flywheel teeth little by little until you locate each of the three torque converter bolts and remove them. I believe these were 19mm.

What is the point of removing these bolts? Am I correct, these bolts fix torque converter to the flywheel?

Very useful write-up, thank you a lot! Even though I am not going to swap my step by manual in the nearest future, this write up is still useful as DIY for rear main seal or auto trans removal.

I have a question, tho:

What is the point of removing these bolts? Am I correct, these bolts fix torque converter to the flywheel?

Thank you very much! As Cyberkaa mentioned, if you don't remove them you can't seperate the torque converter from the flywheel and drop the transmission. It would be stuck in place by those three bolts.

Ok - Did you reprogram yourself or did you have someone do it for you? Regardless I am glad to hear that the mirror dip feature is working again. Eventually I'll get the programming all sorted out.

I've pulled feature option 205 (automatic transmission) from the KOMBI only to find that DIS didn't believe the VO (vehicle order number) was changed so the rest of the modules would not program correctly. Now I'm trying to configure and learn NCS Expert.

Unfortunately there is a world of difference between pre-2001/09 build date cars and post 2001/09. The previous DIY's for programming were pre 2001/09 which meant they had direct access to the SA number, which the rest of the modules see as a change so they will reprogram accordingly. Post 2001/09 cars have a VO and you can't directly change the VO from what I've found, which makes all of this a little more challenging because the rest of the modules don't think a thing has changed without the VO changing.

Unfortunately there is a world of difference between pre-2001/09 build date cars and post 2001/09. The previous DIY's for programming were pre 2001/09 which meant they had direct access to the SA number, which the rest of the modules see as a change so they will reprogram accordingly. Post 2001/09 cars have a VO and you can't directly change the VO from what I've found, which makes all of this a little more challenging because the rest of the modules don't think a thing has changed without the VO changing.

Hopefully you will figure this out (so I don't have to) since I just swapped a 5-speed into my '04.

Your wiring made perfect sense until I started doing the swap and found my donor car had two clutch pedal switches. Both 3-pin. 0 4-pin switches...
On your 4-pin switch does pin-2 get energized when the pedal is slightly depressed and pin-4 when pedal is completely depressed? Pin-2 to ECU disengages cruise control and pin-4 to EWS allows car to start?

Added info for those to follow:
While looking for the pins/connectors to plug wires into the EWS and ECU I found that BMW used the same parts on many connectors on the car. The ones I used were from the E36 rear reading lights!

Hopefully you will figure this out (so I don't have to) since I just swapped a 5-speed into my '04.

Your wiring made perfect sense until I started doing the swap and found my donor car had two clutch pedal switches. Both 3-pin. 0 4-pin switches...
On your 4-pin switch does pin-2 get energized when the pedal is slightly depressed and pin-4 when pedal is completely depressed? Pin-2 to ECU disengages cruise control and pin-4 to EWS allows car to start?

Added info for those to follow:
While looking for the pins/connectors to plug wires into the EWS and ECU I found that BMW used the same parts on many connectors on the car. The ones I used were from the E36 rear reading lights!

It would seem strange that there were two, three wire switches on your donor car but I certainly haven't seen it all. I explained the pins on the clutch module in detail on page two.

To simplify the four wire clutch modules switch:

Pins 1 and 3 are power wires to energize the hall effect sensor*Pin 2 sends a signal to the ECU when the clutch is fully depressedPin 4 sends a signal to the EWS or engine immoblizer so that the car can be started when the clutch is fully depressed

I know that in one of the other write-up's they installed both the four wire, and the three wire switch. The three wire switch was wired to the ECU (along with pin 2 of the four wire switch) and is unnecessary if you're installing the four wire switch. If you install both it will work but you are just paralleling the other circuit making it redundant.

The three wire switch was superseded by the four wire switch. It could be that for a period of time before the four wire switch was introduced that one of the three wire switches was meant to signal the ECU and the other to signal the EWS, independently.

*A hall effect sensor is a proximity sensor that detects a change in a magnetic field and varies voltage output accordingly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by brosive05

This is honestly thee most thorough and amazing write up I have read thus far. Great Job.

Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully others can follow this and it gives back to the community.