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ECBP82WJ1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for ECBP82WJ1WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Turned off circuit breaker to range.Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.Reinstalled new element and metal backing.Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.Reinstalled drawer and racks.Turned on circuit breaker.Tested element by setting bake cycle on.

The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.

After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.

This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

removed the oven racks. used a 6.5 mm socket to take out two bolts. pulled out old element and wires through insulation into oven. i used caution during this part i didn't want the wires to disconnect and fall into the oven. once the wires and element was pulled out approximately 3 inches. i used two magnet clips that hold papers onto the refrigerator and clipped both wires so they wouldn't go back into the stove. disconnected the element from the wires and connected the new element to the wires. pushed wires into the back of the oven and tightened the two 6.5 mm bolt. done in 10 minutes. turned oven on to 400 degrees and let same pre heat. a little smoke will come from the new element which is normal. works fine now.

Broiler element failed

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.

I needed new oven racks

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

After I got the right part(I ordered the wrong one at first, my fault) it was simple to remove the old element, 2 screws and push on termilnals, and replace with perfectly fitting new part. Word of caution, turn off the breaker to stove. I found that the element line is hot even if the control is off!

Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

Damaged oven door gasket

Very easy repair. The gasket ends are stuffed into slots right below the oven window and the gasket is held in with small wire clips that pop into holes in the door. Just pull the old gasket off, no tools. Install the gasket starting by stuffing one end into the slot mentioned above until the first clip lines up with the first small hole. Then insert each successive clip into the corresponding holes. Then use a slot screwdriver to stuff the other end of the gasket into the second slot. No sweat.

Plastic drawer support snapped off

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.