@joecaption - No its not sticking out of the sheet rock, there is no sheet rock the wall is brick.

Because I am remodeling and having all the plumbing in the lower level re-done the pex sticks straight up through the floor and into the lav cabinet.

It is done like this so that when / if I or someone puts in a furred out wall with insulation in it against the brick the pex can go inside that and then stub out properly. But for now it is just vertical stub outs.

Right now I just need to get the fixtures functional and solid.

On a side note why are the stub outs switched to copper like that? My plumber switched some of my stub outs on the upper level to come out of the floor with just pex. Toilets. Kitchen sink and so on.

Should I connect brass adapters like this to each line first and then screw my shut offs onto those or just use compression shutoffs directly to the propex?

I currently have some shark bite like slip on shut offs I got from Ace but they dont feel solid at all.

stops are available with propex ends. Or you can use your adapters- screw them onto the stops first, easier that way.

TheEplumber

10-04-2012 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellonoko
(Post 1023836)

On a side note why are the stub outs switched to copper like that? My plumber switched some of my stub outs on the upper level to come out of the floor with just pex. Toilets. Kitchen sink and so on.

IMO- it's a matter of plumbers choice or perhaps he ran out of copper stubs or his helper did it. I know of no code that does not allow pex to be stubbed out at the wall or through the floor.

hellonoko

10-04-2012 06:16 PM

@TheEplumber - my thinking with putting on brass adapters is that those shut off valves always get a leak / the handle breaks / they get stuck or something. And if you have the valve right on the pex you are going to have to cut off a section of pex to put a new one on.

I think with the upper level stub outs, my house is... less than pretty. Lot of ugly carpet and so on and he didn't think it was worth the time or cost since looks dont matter. As long as it's not a code or functionality issue I don't care really.

TheEplumber

10-04-2012 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellonoko
(Post 1023877)

@TheEplumber - my thinking with putting on brass adapters is that those shut off valves always get a leak / the handle breaks / they get stuck or something. And if you have the valve right on the pex you are going to have to cut off a section of pex to put a new one on.

I think with the upper level stub outs, my house is... less than pretty. Lot of ugly carpet and so on and he didn't think it was worth the time or cost since looks dont matter. As long as it's not a code or functionality issue I don't care really.

As for code- it doesn't matter in my area. I can't say for yours.
Good thinking on the stops- easy to change with the adapters

SeniorSitizen

10-04-2012 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellonoko
(Post 1023877)

@TheEplumber - those shut off valves always get a leak / the handle breaks / they get stuck or something.

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A common mistake for DIY ers and some Pros is to operate the valve with too much force. When we feel it touch the seat when closing - STOP with a feather lite touch. When opening and we feel it touch the back seat STOP with the same feather lite touch.

Also I've found that if a new valve is dis assembled and plumber's grease applied to the threads and packing they will operate well nearly for ever, especially if they are exercised a few times a year. This is especially true with water that has a few undesirable minerals like calcium aka hard water.