Saturday, 6 March 2010

Marsabit is the Machu Picchu of Kenya. If Kenya had to hide its civilisation from Armageddon, Marsabit is the place they should use...

It is the weirdest, most remote and most difficult place to get to, I have ever been. Most of the 50 000 strong community who live in this 1400 meter high hidden town have never seen what tarmac looks like. To do that they would have to travel 250 km north to the the Ethiopian border or a same amount south until reaching Isiolo (where we are heading next). Both options include this horrible lava rock roads making it extremely difficult. As a matter of fact this whole area is so remote and unreachable, it is hardly mentioned in the travel guide books. My 400 page travel guide about Kenya has 6 lines about Marsabit and a few words about the beautiful volcanoes that surround the city. That"s all... This feels real good, I finally feel like an adventurer, having made it to a place that travel guides have not even discovered yet. Except for the TDA riders who cross this town every year since 2004, very few tourists make it here, and the one who do all have stories to share. On the road we passed 2 Spanish women from San Sebastian on an old Renault Espace heading south. It had taken them 4 days to cross the top section of the desert. We were faster on our bicycles... One of the two was walking in front of the Renault car removing the bigger lava rocks by hand so that it could go forward... Anyway last night, they pulled in front of the Jey Jey hotel where we are staying...

The other foreigners here are all equipped with rough looking 4 x4 's, this included a South African couple going around the world for the past 21 months and now heading back home.

The Jey Jey hotel was one of the 6 lines about Marsabit in my travel guide, it said "Jey Jey lodge is the best and cleanest in town"... he he... "best and cleanest"... Well, I don't wanna see the rest... OK, lets face it Jey Jey is probably the closest thing I have ever been to spending a night in jail. The hotel is a double storey building with a central courtyard and rooms disposed along straight dark and dirty corridors. each room has one small window that opens up to the courtyard. Well, let me rephrase this, my window has been sealed with tape and rotting wire so, it does not open and the amount of dirt on the glass actually makes it look more like a thin brick wall. As I entered the room, I noticed a strong acidic smell, which I thought was the detergent they use to swipe the floors. Unfortunately, I later discovered that the "flavour" was coming from my 5 cm thick bed foam which is supposed to act as a mattress.... It has slept so many dirty human bodies that by now it is impregnated with a strange mix of musk and sweat odours. Almost 2 months into this trip, I have lowered my standards to such a point that I did not even bother worrying about things like bed bugs or other strange diseases that the western world is fantasising about. I just decided that I would add my own body smell to this highly subtitle human made perfume. I even had fun trying to identify what would be the closest perfume to this, and interestingly enough, I came to the conclusion that Kouros from Yves St Laurent was the one...

He he... I must be losing it... Don't worry, apparently after we pass Nairobi, things do get better and the comfort levels on the tour rises to a whooping 2 stars (out of 5).

The Jey Jey hotel is run by Mohamed. As the name gives it away, Mohamed is a full scale Muslim and he makes sure that the voice of Allah is heard in the hotel, not just by placing hand made signage everywhere about "Allah is able here" but also by broadcasting his 5h00 am prayers. Marsabit might not have tarmac, but it has loudspeakers...

It poured with rain the whole night and the air is filled with a thick fog adding to the mystic appeal of this place. I am glad I have a room at Jey Jey, no matter about the smelling mattress, at least there are no leaks in the roof. Of, the shared toilets at the back of the corridor are a bit smelly as well, but that makes them easier to spot at night when the town runs out of electricity... And Jey Jey has a small restaurant where they sell Yogurt! Yes Yogurt! First Yogurt I found on this trip. Big 1 liter pots of chocolate yogurt. I had 2 yesterday already and it tasted so good! I am actually on my way for more just now...

My plan to regain weight has been crushed by difficult riding and little food availability this past 2 weeks, so I have to report even further weight loss. It is now so bad that I can admire pieces of of my skeleton sticking through my flesh... Yesterday at camp on arrival, I took my cycling shirt off and some riders commented that I now looked like coming out of a concentration camp. The good news at Jey Jey is that there are no mirrors, so I cannot frighten myself... I also know that from Nairobi, things will be improving. Previous riders told me exactly this "you will lose weight all the way to Nairobi and then you will start picking up mass from there on as you head south and have access to better food more often. "

The last 2 weeks of the tour have been really hard core. We have had long and difficult riding days and very little access to food, except of course to the one they give us at camp. But to make up for the huge amount of calories we spend each day one would need to eat a lot more than that. And I also find it difficult to eat huge amount of food at a time. I think that my stomach has also shrunk. Some younger riders are all going for a second helping of food at camp, I simply struggle to force down one full plate at night, but then an hour later I am hungry again and by then there nothing to eat. Unfortunately the places we have crossed have so little food for sale. Only the same horrible sweet biscuits everywhere. The last place I found some salty stuff for sale was Khartoum! Since then, there has been nothing serious to stock on. I bought so much in Khartoum, salted peanuts, dry fruits, springles, energy bars and so on, but I run out of that a week ago. I would have never imagine how difficult it would be to find simple things like a packet of dried fruits or even chips. Impossible!

Yesterday's ride was definitely a killer stage. Apparently, based on a rough estimation, less than a third of the riders completed it, so that means only about 25 riders rode the entire stage yesterday. Out of those were of course all the EFI's left. We are actually 13 EFI 's left. 11 guys and 2 women (Gizi and Juliana). Yesterday was definitely the hardest cycling day so far because of the roughness of the terrain. 85 km of lava rock road has an horrible impact on your body. Today is actually the first time I feel crampy on this tour. Dinder was somehow harder because of the convoy delays and all the time wasted under the burning heat of Sudan, but yesterday's stage was far more technical and demanding from a cycling point of view. At one stage it was so bad, the rocks were just everywhere, The bike was jumping in all directions, it was so bad that my knees kept on hitting the frame of the bike, there was irrigation, there was heat, there was loose gravel, sand, the road started climbing and suddenly a strong headwind came to add to our misery.I burst laughing thinking to myself what is next? Are they going to start throwing banana skins at us?

Simon walking around Marsabit

Dana and Aren after the 3 kilometer walk from camp to "Marsabit center"

Always be suspicious when the board promises too much....

The JeyJey hotel where I am staying for the rest day.
The "best in town" according to the Lonely Planet guide...

The rules inside my room

The ceiling of my bedroom (best in town)

The next 6 cycling days information board at camp.

Early afternoon, the fog and rain finaly cleared leaving quite a mess in town

Bike wash

I always recomend to eat first and check the kitchen after in Africa,
otherwise you will starve.... This is the kitchen of the restaurant
where we had French fries... Not sure if the goat is waiting to be
milked or slaughtered... The pan next to the goat is for frying the
potatoes.

Marsabit is a gloomy place when it rains

The good news about Marsabit is that it has an Internet cafe which TDA
riders have taken over during this rest day...

2 comments:

Anonymous
said...

I think you concentrated so much on the bad aspects and missed out the beauty and fun of marsabit. I was born and raised in marsabit and currently training as a kidney specialist in Cape Town, South Africa. I wish you knew how much i miss the "gloomy" marsabit if i may borrow your words.

Wow! this could just be one side of town. I dont think you explored enough there are some hidden places like Chicho for finger licking meals!There is none like Chicho Meals, Delicious, Tasty and made to your specification. The rain is a blessing for the communities who live with drought for most part of the year! This is an oasis in the middle of a desert with rough road and rocky views all along until you come to the cooling zone on the Mountains. Am a resident here! The place you called 'Gloomy' is home to me!

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ROUTE MAP

The Tour D' Afrique Race

From Cairo to Cape Town....12 000 km, 10 countries, 96 days of cycling averaging 130 km each. 22 resting days. A total of 120 days to cross the continent and race with 40 over competitors.

This adventure race will challenge my body and mind like no other, crossing some of the most exotic places on earth, pedaling pass places like Kilimanjaro, Victoria falls, lake Malawi...

This race will also be about meeting people, sharing their lifes, their food, their culture.

Become a follower and you will receive regular updates and photos of this incredible adventure!

TRANSLATOR

ME

My name is Gerald Coniel, I am 45 y.o and I must be crazy!... But why be normal?...

HELP ME DONATE BIKES!

Each year the Tour D'Afrique organisation donates bicycles to health care associations in the countries we cross. One bike can deliver medicines up to 100 people a day. Last year 320 bikes were distributed... In 2010, we have donation ceremonies planned for Addis Ababa, Nairobi, Arusha, Lilongwe, Lusaka, Windhoek and Cape Town.

I will be handing over the bikes myself. You will see on this blog when, where, and to whom the bikes went.Join me in raising money for purchasing as many bikes as possible.www.tourdafrique.com/foundation

To participate, mail me at gconiel@andorra.ad100 euro buys one bike, it is the most efficient way to help I have ever heard. Get together with a few friends and offer one bike, make me proud! Imagine what an impact you can make with 100 euro!

MASAI STEPPE

MAP OF TANZANIA

MASAI STEPPE

SectionsFull Tour
Cairo to Cape TownPharaoh's Delight
Cairo to KhartoumThe Gorge
Khartoum to Addis AbabaMeltdown Madness
Addis Ababa to NairobiMasai Steppe
Nairobi to IringaMalawi Gin
Iringa to LilongweZambezi Zone
Lilongwe to Victoria FallsElephant Highway
Victoria Falls to WindhoekDiamond Coast
Windhoek to Cape TownMasai Steppe
Nairobi to Iringa
Start: March 14, Nairobi, Kenya
Finish: March 25, Iringa, Tanzania
Price: €950 Distance: 1,012km
Riding Days: 9 days
Resting Days: 3 days
(difficulty)
(exotic factor)
(comfort)
If scenes of Wildebeest migration and big cat kills on the Discovery or National Geographic Channel are your favourite vision of Africa, then this is the section of the Tour d'Afrique for you. One day south of Nairobi, you will arrive at the border of Tanzania and immediately spot the unmistakable Mount Kilimanjaro and its smaller sibling, Mount Meru. From there, it’s a day’s pedal to the rapidly growing and vibrant city of Arusha. As the gateway to such famous attractions as Serengeti National Park, Ngorogoro Crater, and “Kili,” Arusha is East Africa’s safari capital. Here riders are given 3 days off, affording them the opportunities to experience wild Africa at its most spectacular, to shop in the local stores and markets, or simply to rest and replenish their energies.
Heading south from Arusha, the red-cloaked Masai tribesmen will be your constant companions as you spin along roads with relatively little traffic, keeping an eye out for zebra and giraffe. At Lake Manyara you trade the tarmac for several challenging days of ascents and descents – the Masai Steppe – on a rougher gravel road, that can be treacherous in places if the rainy season has arrived. However the friendliness of the villagers, the roadside banana stands, and the sheer beauty of this unique and verdant land ensures that come rain or shine, this stretch is one of the most memorable on Tour. After passing through Tanzania’s modern capital of Dodoma, you hit pavement again shortly before the pleasant town of Iringa, which is the gateway to nearby Ruaha National Park, and a regional center of the Ismaili Islamic sect.

PLACES TRAVELLED IN KENYA

MELTDOWN MADNESS

South of Addis Ababa, the terrain changes again to rolling countryside interspersed with alkaline lakes. After passing Mount Guraghe and Lake Abaya, riders will arrive in Arba Minch (Forty Springs), which is renowned for its beautiful views, Crocodile farm, and nearby Nechisar National Park. In Yabello, you can visit the wildlife sanctuary where you might catch a glimpse at some of Africa's rarest birds such as the Prince Ruspoli Turaco. Most of the riding for this stretch is on reasonably good pavement, with one exception - a tough off-road day between Kanso and Yabello through remote villages inhabited by the Borena people.
The crossing from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale marks the beginning of the “meltdown” portion of this section. It takes 6 riding days to cross the unpaved lava expanse of northern Kenya’s Dida Galgalu desert, which for long stretches redefines the words bumpy and corrugated. At the midway point the market town of Marsabit, set on the slopes of an ancient volcano, offers a welcome respite before the “road” descends again into the arid lands that are home to the Samburu people and their herds of camels and cattle. Approaching Isiolo, riders rejoice at the sight of pavement, and the opportunity to have a well deserved beer or ice cream bar. From there, the route ascends and then descends the western slopes of majestic Mount Kenya, before crossing the equator in Nanyuki, which is a short day’s ride from Nairobi, East Africa’s largest city.
The “Meltdown” features some of the most diverse changes in scenery and riding conditions, from plateau to desert to savannah. Cycling the “Meltdown” in its entirety is an impressive accomplishment for any cyclist.

MAP OF ETHIOPIA

PLACES TREVELLED IN ETHIOPIA

THE GORGE

From Khartoum to the border of Ethiopia, the Tour passes through the “bread basket” of the Sudan. The countryside gradually changes as you cycle towards Ethiopia and witness the transformation from the Arabic Muslim world of northern Africa to the more tribal and traditional nature of the Horn of Africa.
Once in Ethiopia, the ride of your life begins. Ethiopia contains some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world as well as one of its most unique and ancient cultures. This section will challenge your body more than any other due to the high altitude riding, not least during the first two days in country when the Tour takes the rough but slowly improving road up onto the plateau from Metema to the Gondar road junction. The second of these days features the most climbing – some 2500 meters - of any day on tour.
The Ethiopian Highlands offer several fascinating stops including Gondar city with its 17th century castles, and Bahir Dar where you can visit ancient monasteries on islands in Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls. While some riders may hesitate to sample such wonders of Ethiopian cuisine as injera (flat bread), shuro wat (chick pea stew), and kitfo (steak tartare), no-one can resist the espresso and juice bars found in all the larger towns.
From a cycling standpoint, the highlight of this section will be the Blue Nile Gorge, a 1600-meter precipitous descent and ascent on a newly paved road that will test the mettle of cyclists of any caliber. Once you have conquered the Blue Nile Gorge, the beautiful terrain of the central Ethiopian plateau will whiz by as you spin towards the capital city of Addis Ababa. The descent from the eucalyptus forested hills that surround Addis into the downtown core is an experience you will not soon forget.

PHARAOH'S DELIGHT

The Tour d'Afrique starts at the legendary Pyramids of Giza, on the outskirts of Cairo. As one of the wonders of the world, the Pyramids are a perfect embarkation point for the intrepid journey ahead, and the Sphinx bows its head in respect as you cycle past and bid farewell to Africa’s largest city.
After riding to the Red Sea and down the coastal highway to Safaga, you climb inland and cross the rugged Eastern desert into Upper Egypt, joining the Nile River at Qena. In Luxor, the opportunity to explore the magnificent temple of Karnak and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens is one not to be missed. From there, the Route continues south along the banks of the mother Nile towards the Aswan Dam.
From Aswan you will travel overnight by boat down Lake Nasser and past the Abu Simbel monuments into Sudan, one of the world’s most remote and least visited countries. But as you will discover, the Sudanese are some of the world’s friendliest people. For many riders this is where the “real” Africa begins. With the Nile River as companion, you will spin past minarets and through palm grove villages that have hardly changed in hundreds of years. Change is however coming more rapidly now as the sandy tracks that the Tour used to traverse the Nubian desert on are replaced by smooth Chinese funded tarmac. This section ends with a convoy ride into the Sudanese capital city of Khartoum, which sits at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile rivers. After the heat and dust of the desert, Khartoum seems to be part oasis and part mirage, especially when one enters the air-conditioned ABSA shopping center, where milk shakes, gourmet coffees, a supermarket and even bowling can be found.
The "Pharaoh's Delight" is for those who want to feel the desert wind on their face and experience the romance of biking along one of the great rivers of the world through the lands of the Pharaohs, the Nubians and the Cush. At times you will feel like you are one of the first travelers to come upon these forgotten lands. And on a bicycle, that’s pretty much the truth.