Dinosaur National Monument

Dinosaur National Monument protects
a large deposit of fossil dinosaur bones--remains of the so-called "terrible
lizards" that lived millions of years ago. The dinosaurs weren't
really lizards, and most of them weren't even terrible. But some of
the first dinosaur fossils ever found were huge bones and teeth, very
lizard-like except for their size, and so the idea of monstrous lizards
was born. Today, many ideas about dinosaurs are changing, and the fossils
at Dinosaur National Monument continue to help us learn more about these
fascinating animals.

The fossils that give the
monument its name were discovered in 1909 by Earl Douglass. He was a
paleontologist (a scientist who studies prehistoric life) who worked
for the Carnegie Museum of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Douglass knew that
some of the rocks in northeastern Utah were the same kind that had produced
dinosaur skeletons elsewhere, so he went there hoping to find more bones
for the museum. In fact, he found thousands of them, and spent many
years digging them up and shipping them to Pittsburgh, where many skeletons
are now on display. President Woodrow Wilson heard about the great dinosaur
quarry that Douglass had started, and proclaimed the site as Dinosaur
National Monument in 1915. Years later, the National Park Service began
to develop the quarry as it is today. The rock layer containing the
fossil bones forms one wall of the Quarry Visitor Center. On this wall,
paleontologists have carefully chiped away the rock to uncover the bones
and leave them in place. More than 1500 fossil bones can now be seen
in this unusual exhibit.

Why are there so many bones
in one place? The rock around them is made up of sand and gravel, just
like the sand and gravel you might see along a large river. Such a river
flowed through this area 150 million of years ago, and many dinosaurs
lived near it. Now and then some of them died near the river. During
rainy seasons, the river overflowed its banks--just as many rivers do
now--and picked up some of the dead dinosaurs lying nearby. A few of
those bodies were whole, but many had probably decayed or been eaten
by other animals, so that just the bones were left. The bones and bodies
were carried by the river and deposited in the main channel. The current
buried them with sand and gravel. The place that is now the Quarry was
at one time a river channel.

As ages passed, that river
vanished, but other rivers and seas came and went, leaving layer after
layer of sand and mud that slowly solidified into rock. Even the buried
bones became as hard as rock, as water seeping through the ground filled
them in with dissolved minerals. Later still, strong vise-like forces
began squeezing the Earth's crust in this area, bending and tilting
the rock layers--just as the pages of a paperback book will bend if
you push on it from opposite sides. But the more that the rocks were
pushed upward, the more they were worn down by rain, snow, frost, and
wind- -layer after layer. Finally, some of the long-buried dinosaur
bones began to show up near the top of a steep hill, and Earl Douglass
saw them.

The Dinosaur Quarry
is 7 miles north of Jensen, Utah, and encloses 1,500 dinosaur bones.
There are exhibits that tell the story about the bones. You can watch
technicians working on fossils in the paleontology laboratory through
the laboratory window. There is a wonderful bookstore that specializes
in dinosaur books and natural history books. It is open daily; 8:00
a.m. to 4:30 p.m. with extended hours during the summer. Due to limited
parking at the Quarry a shuttle bus carries visitors from a lower parking
lot to the Quarry from Memorial Day through Labor Day. During summer
months there is an entrance fee.

Headquarters Visitor
Center is on US Highway 40, 2 miles east of
Dinosaur, Colorado. Exhibits and a 10-minute orientation program provide
information about the monument's scenic canyon country. There is a nice
bookstore here. No fossils can be seen in this area. A short nature
trail begins at the visitor center. It is open daily 8:00 a.m. to 6:00
p.m., during the summer. Winter hours are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. weekdays,
closed on weekends and holidays. There is no entance fee.

Ranger Talks and
Walks are presented in the summer. Our ranger
talks and walks are a great way to see more of the park and have a fun
experience with an expert guide. A schedule of talks and walks is not
printed for distribution. Inquire at either visitor center to find out
what is going on that day. Rangers lead guided walks to explore the
park's geology, wildlife, ecosystem communities, and cultural sites.
Short talks about dinosaurs and paleontology are presented each day
in the Dinosaur Quarry between 10:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Evening talks
on a wide variety of topics are presented at the Green River Campground
campfire circle each night, Wednesday through Saturday. An evening talk
is presented at Echo Park Campground every Friday and Saturday, followed
by a guided walk the next morning.

Nature Trails
are located throughout the park. The six self-guiding nature trails
are a mile or less in length and are easy walks. There are several other
longer trails in the park for those who want a little more challenge.
Overnight hiking trips within the monument require a free backcountry
permit, available at the Dinosaur Quarry and Headquarters visitor centers,
or from a field ranger.

Auto Tours
begin near the Dinosaur Quarry and Monument Headquarters Visitor Center.
The Tour of the Tilted Rocks self-guided auto tour begins near the Quarry.
Allow about 1Ĺ to 2 hours for this 22-mile round trip. This tour is
a brief look at the monument's diversity, sights, and stories. The Journey
Through Time self-guided auto tour begins at Monument Headquarters.
Allow about 2 to 4 hours for this 62-mile round trip. This tour will
introduce you to the diversity of communities in the Dinosaur ecosystem
and the complex interactions between plants and animals and their environment.
Both tours are fun, interesting, and beautiful.

Picnic Areas
are located in Colorado at Headquarters Visitor Center parking area,
Plug Hat Butte, Canyon Overlook and Echo Park Overlook along the Harpers
Corner Road. In Utah picnic areas are located at Split Mountain Campground
and Josie Morris Cabin. Picnickers are welcome to use any campground
when space is available.

Roads
to the Dinosaur Quarry and nearby campgrounds are paved and open all
year. Harpers Corner Road is paved, but closes in the winter due to
snow. The Deerlodge Road is paved and is open all year, although it
may be snow packed in winter. The Diamond Mountain Road to Jones Hole
is paved and is open all year. Most other roads are unpaved and impassable
when wet. Most unpaved roads, when dry, can be driven with care in passenger
cars. It is best to inquire about road conditions before driving on
unpaved roads.

Self Guiding Nature
TrailsDesert
Voices Nature Trail: This trail is close to the Dinosaur Quarry
and is a particularly good trail to visit after viewing the bones and
exhibits at the quarry. The trail begins in the Split Mountain area
across from or west of the boat ramp. Signs along the trail explain
what you can experience as you walk through this arid environment. A
special feature of the trail is a series of signs produced specifically
for children by children. The trail is about 1 1/2 miles long round
trip and is moderately difficult. The best times to walk the trail are
in the morning or evening when it is not so hot. The interpretive signs
will introduce you to the threats confronting arid environments in the
West. We think you will find this trail provokes thought and self evaluation
of your lifestyle.

Sound
of Silence Route:The Sounds of Silence route is also
close to the Dinosaur Quarry and is about 3 miles long round trip. This
is not a "trail" in the traditional sense, but rather a route,
which is difficult to follow and is designed to challenge you as a hiker.
The purpose of the route is to help you learn to find your way and properly
hike in the desert. An added benefit is that you will experience silence
like you have probably never experienced it before.

Cold
Desert Trail:This trail is located at Monument Headquarters
Visitor Center along US 40, 2 miles east of Dinosaur, Colorado. It is
a 1/2 mile in length and is an easy walk. Many people find the desert
shrub community that stretches out for miles beyond US Highway 40, to
be a monotonous and lifeless landscape. That is not the case and this
trail tries to prove it. The trail will introduce you to the variety
of plants and animals that make the desert shrub community their home.
This is a great trail for the family and a good way to prepare yourself
for the drive up the Journey Through Time self guiding auto tour along
the Harpers Corner Road which begins at Headquarters.

Plug
Hat Trail:This is another short trail along the Harpers
Corner Road. It is 1/4 mile in length and an easy walk. Like the Cold
Desert Trail, this trail at Plug Hat is an introducation to the flora
and fauna of the pinion pine and juniper forest community. An added
bonus is the spectacular views of the surrounding landscape from the
trail. There are also additional signs and scenic views across the road
at the Plug Hat picnic area. The Plug Hat picnic area also has a short
trail that is accessible to those confined to a wheel chair and the
pit toilet is also fully accessable.

Harpers
Corner Trail:At the end of Harpers Corner Road is this
2 mile long round trip trail that is moderately difficult. If I had
to pick a "must hike trail", this would be it! The trail will
take you to the end of a point from which you will have an eagle's view
of dramatic geologic features and a breathtaking view of the canyons
of the Green and Yampa rivers. The best times to walk this trail are
in the early morning or evening when the light is especially dramatic
for artful photographs.

Gates of Lodore Trail:At the end
of the campground at Gates of Lodore is a 1 1/2 mile round trip trail
that is an easy walk. The trail offers spectacular views of the river
gorge and introduces some of the plants and geology of the area. One
question will boggle your mind, "Why and how did this river cut
through this mountain rather than flow around it?" After walking
the trail chat with the ranger at Lodore and get recommendations about
other sites to visit in Browns Park. There is a lot to see in the north
end of the park.

Hiking Trails
The trails listed in this section are marked and maintained hiking trails
that allow you to explore the beauty, solitude, flora, and fauna that
is Dinosaur National Monument.

Jones
Hole Trail and Ely Creek Trail: This may be the prettiest hiking
trail in the park. From the Dinosaur Quarry, drive 1 hour along the
Brush Creek Road and Diamond Mountain Road to the Jones Hole National
Fish Hatchery. The hatchery has parking, restrooms, and an information
kiosk for your convenience. The Jones Hole Trail is 8 miles long, round
trip, and will take you from the hatchery down to the Green River. It
is a moderately difficult walk if you go the distance; an easy walk
if you go a short distance. Half way down the trail is Ely Creek, 4
miles round trip, a good compromise destination.

The Jones Hole Trail follows
the clear, spring-fed waters of Jones Hole Creek. In the summer when
it is warm, you can wade in the creek, but do so with care. The rocks
are covered with algae and are slick and sharp. Brown and rainbow trout
make their home in the creek, feeding on the abundant supply of aquatic
insects that graze upon the algae clinging to the rocks. I've seen muscrat
in the creek, attracted to the abundat aquatic vegetation and mink hunting
for trout. After the sun sets Yuma myotis and silver-haired bats snatch
aquatic insects that have hatched and are flitting about looking for
mates. Keep an eye out for mammal tracks left the night before in the
mud by striped skunk, racoon, ringtail, and mountain lion. The life
in Jones Hole is an intricate web of interdependence between plants
and animals.

If you fish the creek you
will need a Utah fishing license. State fishing regulations require
the use of flies and artificial lures only; bait is not allowed. Special
catch limits apply and you are responsible for knowing the regulations.

As you begin your hike,
the trail enters the riparian woods. Riparian is a name applied to the
community of plants and animals that make their home in the creek's
flood plain. It is a community characterized by high soil moisture (due
to its proximity to the creek), higher humidity under the tree canopy,
and occasional disturbance by flash floods. Boxelder trees form an enclosed
and cool canopy over the trail in the riparian zone. Music from the
creek and from the many birds in the canopy will serenade you as you
walk. Riparian communities are one of the rarer, but most productive
wildlife habitats in this arid landscape.

In a number of places the
trail rises out of the flood plain onto the open and warmer benches
in the canyon bottom. The canyon benches are above the creek and therefore,
have drier soils. This more arid environment supports bunch grasses,
mountain mahogany and squawbush shrubs, and juniper trees; good habitat
for mule deer and bighorn sheep. If you keep your eyes open you may
see them.

The open benches will give
you the opportunity to notice the rocks that form the canyon walls.
Take a close look at the rocks on one side of the canyon, then look
at the other side. Do the rocks look different? They should, you see,
the Island Park Fault runs along the base of the canyon wall on your
left (east wall). The left wall was pushed up more than 1,000 feet in
relationship to the right wall (west wall), long, long, ago. The rock
forming the canyon's left wall is the Madison Limestone, a Mississippian
Age rock (330-360 million years old), that is a sea deposit containing
coral and brachiopod (clam) fossils. The right wall of the canyon is
composed of two formations. The lower rock is the Morgan Formation,
a Pennsylvanian Age rock (320 million years old) and the upper cream-colored
rock is the Weber Sandstone, an upper Pennsylvanian Age rock (300 million
years old). The Morgan Formation was deposited in an ocean and contains
coral, brachiopod, crinoid, and bryzoan fossils. The Weber Sandstone
was a sand dune deposit. The Island Park Fault fractured the rock along
the fault zone weakening the rock which aided Jones Hole Creek in cutting
this canyon. The variety of rock found in close proximity to one another
here at Jones Hole and throughout Dinosaur National Monument, weather
into different types of soil, to which plants are adapted. This increases
the biological diversity of Jones Hole and the monument.

A little beyond the bridge
is an archeological site, Deluge Shelter. Wayside signs explain some
of what we know about the prehistoric Indians that have lived beside
the creek for over 7,000 years. When you first see the Indian rock art,
resist the urge to touch it. Touching rock art abrades its surface and
leaves behind oils from your fingers which accelerate the erosion of
these 1,000 year old works of art.

When you reach the junction
with the Isalnd Park Trail at Ely Creek, approximately 1.8 miles from
the hatchery, you have several choices. You can continue hiking the
remaining 2.2 miles to the Green River, or you can walk up the Island
Park Trail about 1/4 mile to Ely Creek waterfall. This is a wonderful
spot, shaded by Douglas fir and birch trees, with background music of
cascading, splashing water. This is a great spot to cool off and take
a break.

From the waterfall you can
continue up the Island Park Trail another 1/3 mile to the fork in the
trail. The left fork continues on for 7 1/2 miles, up and out of Jones
Hole to the historic Ruple Ranch in Island Park. The right fork takes
you another 2-3 miles up into the box canyons of the Labyrinths. The "trail"
eventually peters out as you penetrate country far less traveled. In
the Labyrinths you are on your own; keep tabs on the landscape as you
go so you know how to get back.

As you continue down the
Jones Hole Trail a short distance you will cross Ely Creek and come
to the Ely Creek Campsite. This is the only designated backcountry campsite
in the monument. A free backcountry permit is required to stay overnight
at one of the two campsites. You must reserve one of these sites at
the Dinosaur Quarry Visitor Center. No fires are permitted. Camping
is not permitted elsewhere in Jones Hole Canyon or the Labryinths.

When you leave Ely Creek
and head toward the Green River you cross the Island Park Fault. The
creek continues to cut ever deeper into the Madison Limestone beyone
this point. Near the Green River you will walk past a rock outcrop that
looks strikingly different from the Madison Limestone. This is the red
sandstone of the older Lodore Formation, Cambrian Age rock (510-570
million years old). Trilobites crawled about the ancient Lodore sea
floor amongst their neighbors, brachiopods and marine worms in the mud.

The trail ends in the Jones
Hole Campground. This campground is for river running parties only.
Respect the privacy of river runners in their campsites as you approach
the river. Keep your eyes open for bighorn sheep. They often hang out
in this area beside the river.

You've earned a rest. At
the Green River you can loll about, soak your feet, lay in the shade
of the boxelder trees, and watch the river glide by. When you are rested
you can start back to your car, IF you can tear yourself away from this
beautiful, tranquil scene. When you walk this trail you enjoy an extra
special day.

Tent and RV Camping

Obtaining campsites in Dinosaur
National Monument is on a first-come, first-served basis. There is no
reservation service for camping in the monument. Most of the campgrounds
do not fill up, except for Labor Day and Memorial Day weekends. Echo
Park Campground can fill up on the weekends, but is usually not crowded
during weekdays.

The length of stay limit
is 14 days.

Recreation vehicles in excess
of 35 feet in length cannot be accommodated in any of the campgrounds.
There are no hookups. Trailers and motor homes should not be taken on
the Echo Park and Rainbow Park roads due to steep dips and sharp turns.

Fires may be built only
in the fireplaces provided. Keep your fire small, never leave it unattended,
even for a few minutes, and be sure it is out cold before bedtime or
departure.

Green River Campground
(5 miles east of Dinosaur Quarry) - $12 per night, has 88 sites, handles
tents and RVs, is well shaded, usually has drinking water but does
not for the 2000 summer season because of a water line break. Some areas
will be closed for water line construction, water will not be available.
No fees will be charged until construction is complete. Has modern
restrooms, tables and fireplaces, firewood for sale, and ranger talks
at the campground campfire circle. It is open approximately April to
October.

Split Mountain
Campground (4 miles east of Dinosaur Quarry)
in the summer is for group camping only, but is otherwise open all year.
The campground has group camping fees, 4 sites, can handle tents, is
shaded, has drinking water, modern restrooms, tables and fireplaces,
and firewood for sale. Call (435) 789-8277 to reserve a group campsite.

Rainbow Park Campground
(26 miles from Dinosaur Quarry on unpaved road) - no fee, 2 sites, handles
tents, no water, vault toilet, tables and fireplaces, and is open all
year. Road to campground is impassable when wet.

Echo Park Campground
(38 miles north of Headquarters) Newly renavated, $6.00/night, 17 camp
sites, including 1 handicap accessable , plus 4 walk-in sites and one
group site. Water and vault toilets, handles tents. Check with a ranger
on present fire use policy. Access is dependent upon weather, the last
13 miles of road are unpaved and impassable when wet. RVs and trailers
are not recommended.

Deerlodge Park
Campground (53 miles east of Headquarters)-
no fee, 8 sites, handles tents, is shaded, no drinking water, vault
toilets, tables and fireplaces, and is open all year.

Gates of Lodore
Campground (106 miles north of Headquarters)
- $5 per night, handles tents and RVs, has some shade, drinking water,
vault toilets, tables and fireplaces, and is open all year.

Group CampingGroup campsites are located in the Split Mountain
Campground only during the summer months (May through October). You
can reserve a campsite for your group by calling (435) 789-8277. The
Split Mountain Group Campground contains 4 sites. A maximum number of
20 people can camp in each site. The campground is situated by the Green
River with a spectacular view of the mouth of Split Mountain Gorge.
The campground is fairly well shaded and has drinking water, modern
restrooms, tables and fireplaces, and firewood for sale. The group camping
fee is $10 for a non-refundable reservation fee and $25 per night.

Backcountry CampingDinosaur National Monument is not known as
a backpack and horse pack park. The reason for this is the monumentís
lack of a trail system. However, if you can read a map and are comfortable
camping in an arid environment, the backcountry possibilities in the
monument are endless. A knowledgeable ranger at one of the visitor centers
can help you plan a trip. You can also purchase a USGS or Trails Illustrated
topographic map of Dinosaur National Monument.

Overnight backpack and horse
pack trips require a free backcountry use permit available at either
visitor center or a field ranger.

The Ely Creek Campground
in Jones Hole is the only designated backpack campground in the park.
You can make a reservation and obtain a backcountry permit for an Ely
Creek site at the Dinosaur Quarry visitor center. The campsite is located
two miles down Jones Hole Trail and has two sites. A maximum of 10 people
can stay in each site, fires are not permitted.

During the low-use river
season (second Saturday in September to the second Sunday in May) backpackers
can camp at accessible river camps along the Green and Yampa rivers.

Fishing

Fishing opportunities are
available within the monument. The Green and Yampa rivers contain catfish
and pike. If you do fish, you need to know how to identify the four
endangered native fish that live in these rivers. They are sometimes
hooked by fishermen and must be immediately returned to the river unharmed.
Jones Hole Creek is clear and cool, a perfect habitat for brown and
rainbow trout. Special regulations apply in Jones Hole, such as artificial
flies and lures only. All fishermen must have a valid state-fishing
license and be familiar with the regulations.

Boat Trips

White
Water Boat Trips are maybe the best way to see the heart of Dinosaur.
Boaters experience the thrill of rapids, beautiful cliffs, bighorn sheep,
solitude, and nature, unvarnished and wild.

Mountain Biking

Mountain Biking is a sport
that is slowly growing in popularity at Dinosaur. There are no mountain
bike trails in the monument. Bikes can travel on the paved and unpaved
roads in the monument, but our roads are narrow and there are no road-shoulder
bike paths. Mountain bikes are not allowed on any hiking trails or two-track
backcountry roads. The best mountain bike routes in the monument are
as follows:

The Island Park Road
is 12 - 17 miles long one way and ends at a primitive campground.
It is unpaved, but well maintained, and an easy to moderately strenuous
ride.

The Echo Park Road is
13 miles long one way and ends at the Echo Park Campground (camping
fee). It is unpaved, rough and steep, and a strenuous ride.

The Yampa Bench Road
is 51 miles long in the monument and an additional 20 miles or so
to US 40. There are no campgrounds or water along this route. The
road is unpaved, rough, steep in several places, and a very strenuous
ride. Good planning is necessary to do this trip.