Description

Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.

The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.

People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.

The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung (Easy V). Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).

P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.

P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).

P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, traversing right under a shallow overhang, where the scary loose block discussed below used to be (it fell in Nov. 2012). Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small pro. Small cams useful for the first pitch. Small cams and nuts useful for the second pitch.

First pitch can also be wet. After rain the day before, p1 of Annie Oh! was wet. I got halfway up, then traversed over to p1 of Limelight and finished there. I also suggest doing Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow as an alternate to p1 of Annie Oh! Second pitch was wonderful though.

That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.

BETA to avoid loose block: Having never been on this climb before, touching the loose block on lead scared daylights out me, so I downclimbed to the nearest good footing and traversed a foot or two to the right (almost lichen-covered holds get you above the block in a couple of 5.6ish moves). One of the easier 8s in the Gunks, Limelight is a far more serious lead, IMO.

I couldn't disagree more with you Dolgio. I've lead most all 2 and three star 5.8's in the gunks and this is by no means anywhere near an easy 5.8. Arrow, snookies, morning after, wonderland absurdland drunkards. The list goes on and on. There are actually only a couple 5.8's that i would say are tougher than this climb. This is a serious climb with some runout. If you aren't solid in 5.8 stick to arrow and Easy o and the plethora of easier, less sustained 5.8s.

That block on pitch 2 is going to sever a rope and take out a belayer one day, hope I'm a long way from the Trapps when it happens. There's another "bongo" flake that few mention - it's got the green alien (circa 2005) stuck in it. We all put a .5 camalot or so in the horizontal above. No imminent, but give that a while and it will be in the talus.

All that said, climb with caution and enjoy yet another truly awesome Gunks. 5.8

Traumatic memories of this one. While being a solid 5.8 leader at the gunks, P2 completely freaked me out. I found it super steep, run out, and I very nearly went for a very long whipper when both feet popped. I slapped them back on to god-knows-what and they held. I finished, but was not happy.

Climbed this route for the first time this past weekend. The "scary loose block" had me pretty spooked on lead. After a lot of poking around I discovered a clutch finger pocket right of the block that makes pulling on the thing completely avoidable. Someone should probably take a crowbar up there and pry it off before it kills someone...

I didn't realize it until a couple minutes ago but I knew something felt off when I climbed Annie oh yesterday. The block is GONE. I don't think it changes the climb much, other than making it less "thrilling."

We skipped P1 so I can only comment on P2. I thought the pitch was decently protected (no more than 10 ft between gear) and easier than P2 of 3 doves. Maybe it seems easier without the scary loose block? Don't be scared off by the comments. Fun pitch. Go climb it.

This was my very first 5.8 lead at the gunks. And I'm glad it was! I did the first pitch of Limelight to get to the GT. The second pitch of Annie O is really good. Gear is p.g but what you get is solid for the most part. Several thin committing moves keep it very interesting! There is a loose block near the top right before the last few moves. Put this one on your list.

That "other" scary loose block near the top is REALLY REALLY loose and it is quite large. I went around it to the left but that thing is very likely going to hurt someone. The block in question is oriented horizontally, around 12-14" tall and 5' or so long. Watch out for it, go around it, don't touch it.

P1 is always a test of where my lead head is at. The 40-50 ft at the start with no pro is only just the first mental test. Small gear, a couple wires, tiny cams...you get to climb quite a long ways (15' or so) above a blue Alien. The holds are all there and are nicely positive. But you def. want a cool head on this pitch.

That large flake is pretty spooky on P2, there's a stuck alien under it. I don't know what imbecile places a cam in the back of a 4'x3' hollow sounding flake... There's a small offset nut placement right above on the right side of the flake.

Did P1 for the first time last month. Gunkiemike has it right...keep a cool head. It's R for sure but the moves are solid and the R isn't through the crux. Good pro at the crux and a good stance before to work it out.