Recently, I picked up a JP Sauer 16ga SxS, evidently made for and marketed by Geco. While showing it off to my brother, I stated my only complaint about the gun was the trigger guard looked like it was made out of plastic - maybe bakelite. He suggested that it was possibly horn.

This is where the problem arises. We were out pheasant hunting and the trigger guard cracked - right where the screw attaches it to the pistol grip. I guess it didn't like the cold ND wind any more than I did. Obviously I can't shoot the gun until this is repaired. Being a complete hack, I'm hesitant to attempt this repair - especially not being sure what the material is and what glue to use. And with most of the screws still having their proper timing, I don't want to mess up. Thoughts?

This is a great gun - feels like magic in my hands. Even with getting used to double triggers, I went 5 for 8 on roosters with it using B&P #5s.

Those trigger guards are made of horn. Might be able to find a used one. I would contact Merkel USA and New England Custom Guns. Also ask over on DoubleGunShop.com. They have a German gun forum. You can always have a new steel trigger guard made. Probably be a few hundred dollars.
Good luck,
Jeff

I have repaired some in the past. I have found that the guards sold by Galazan are in need of "adjusting" to make them work well. "Adjusting" is a pain and multi time endeavor. It can be done and I have done it.

It has been a while since I posted and even read this board. Work has gotten ahead of me in many ways. It may be possible to patch the horn area to match with another piece of horn. Please send pictures and I will see if possibilities can be made into reality.

The double S of Sauer & Sohn is clearly seen on the barrels and receiver (proof marks 1931)

My trigger guard was broken in two places, once behind the triggers and one by the screw hole.

What has worked for the main rupture was to drill recesses for pins on either side of the crack, and pin it together, using superglue. JB Weld did not hold for some reason.

Also, because the rear of the trigger guard 'bulge' takes quite a bit of impact on the fingers from the recoil, I have added a vertical pin for stability.

In my receiver, just behind the triggers, is a drilled hole (not tapped)
I drilled into the bone to take a pin that fits into that receiver hole. This keeps the trigger guard from moving forward with the recoil, if that makes sense.

So far so good. I still need to pin up the rear end but it is not crucial anymore