MTX 8302 sound just quit on front speakers

I have an MTX 81000D for subs
MTX 8302 and 6500 hooked up to kenwood kdc-z919.
The other da the sound was cutting out on ftront speakers then everything was ok.
Three days later I was driving the sound started cutting out again a couple of times then finally everything up front quit.
I still have some sund when you put your ear to the front speakers but they are drowned ot by subs and back deck speakers.
The 8302 amp was really hot I noticed compared to the other ones.
Could this amp be blown due to heat??
The led comes on but no amplification to the speakers that are hooked up to it??
I am not an expert though I didn't put this set up together a sound place did.
Thanks
Dan

DanHi Chris!!
No I didn't add any devices and its been running good for the last month at least.
I went to check now that it was cooled down but it is the same!!
It has been very hot around here this past week.
This is what I have for set up
Audio -Compustar2wss alarm/starter security system -Kenwood KDC-Z919 Headunit -Kenwood 10 disc Cd changer -1 x MTX mid-tweeter combo in doors -1 x MTX mid-tweeter combo custom made floor kick panel each side -4 x MTX 6.5" mids rear deck -1 set clarion tweeters in rer sides -2 x MTX 15" 8000 series subswoofers in trunk encased in custome made fiberglass box that drops in spare wheel well -1 x MTX 81000 D mono amp -1 x MTX8302 2 Channel amp -1 x MTX 6152 2 channel amp -1 x 2.4 farad capacitor -0 guage wiring
Thanks
Dan

I forgot to mention I installed a 180 amp alternatorbut that doesn't mean I'm not having those issues.I will do what you asked and let you know.The other problem now that developped today anfter I got the left side goingthe amp quit again and now its blowing fuses

Thanks

DanHi Chris
I forgot to mention I installed a 180 amp alternator
but that doesn't mean I'm not having those issues.
I will do what you asked and let you know.
The other problem now that developped today anfter I got the left side going
the amp quit again and now its blowing fuses
Thanks
Dan

The Capacotor is right next to the amps and there is a fuse betweenthe cap and the batteryThe guage on the amp shows a constant 12.6 when the car is running and goes down when it is not.The other amps don't get hot at allThe speakers on the right side were blown since they smelt burntRemoved and Tested wire with other speaker seemed okthen I re-hooked the left side everything was ok so I decided to do a test and run at 50% capacity, after about 10 min these speakers started to smell as well so I turned it down and soon after they quit as well.After some reaserch I saw that the 4 speaker which are 2-t8.5 and 2-t8.6 are 50/100 watts rms and 60/120 watts rms and 9the (4-tweeters)are probably too weak for this amp. The tweeters are ok though. So after all this I decided to disconnect that amp ant when I opened the trunk it was off and noticed blown fuses tried other fuse they blew as well in seconds

everything in on 0 guage wire from the batterythere is also a voodoo something i don't no wahat it is but i think it's a grounding block Do you think its an internal problem

Thanks for all the help Chris

Dan

I was trying to upload pics for you but it's no workingThe Capacotor is right next to the amps and there is a fuse between
the cap and the battery
The guage on the amp shows a constant 12.6 when the car is running and goes down when it is not.
The other amps don't get hot at all
The speakers on the right side were blown since they smelt burnt
Removed and Tested wire with other speaker seemed ok
then I re-hooked the left side everything was ok so I decided to do a test and run at 50% capacity, after about 10 min these speakers started to smell as well so I turned it down and soon after they quit as well.
After some reaserch I saw that the 4 speaker which are 2-t8.5 and 2-t8.6 are 50/100 watts rms and 60/120 watts rms and 9the (4-tweeters)are probably too weak for this amp. The tweeters are ok though. So after all this I decided to disconnect that amp ant
when I opened the trunk it was off and noticed blown fuses
tried other fuse they blew as well in seconds
everything in on 0 guage wire from the battery
there is also a voodoo something i don't no wahat it is but i think it's a grounding block
Do you think its an internal problem
Thanks for all the help Chris
Dan
I was trying to upload pics for you but it's no working

Sorry about the abreviation, I will type the hole thing next time.I will email the pics right nowHi Chris!!
Sorry about the abreviation, I will type the hole thing next time.
I will email the pics right now

Hi Dan....Have you had any other service or installs shortly prior to the onset of clipping? In any case, the 8302 has Onboard Thermal Protection which is kicking in due to excessive heat. If you've had this running fine for a period of time, by that I mean at least a month, then we need to focus on why you're suddenly overheating......please update your post with any further information and progress.....good luck my friend

Hi Dan.....SHEESH..That's quite a rig ya got. Okay, besides impeccable equipment, you also have NO conflicts, which requires me to do a little more research, but off the top of my head we may need to replace your fet. Also, providing your installer is an authorized MTX dealer, you do have a 3 year warranty. Meanwhile, we have to start somewhere, so let's begin with the following steps.

1) Ensure that your ignition and any after market accessory Power Switches that you may have are in the OFF position. Now check on the 8302 and ensure that the LED isn't lit.

2) Until we know the exact corrective measure to apply, Decrease both Gains located on the left hand side of your amp by at least 50% for now. In any case, we know that the safety features of your amp are functioning properly, thus preserving the components. Please update your post with your observations and developments and I will do the same...good luck my friendHi Dan.....SHEESH..That's quite a rig ya got. Okay, besides impeccable equipment, you also have NO conflicts, which requires me to do a little more research, but off the top of my head we may need to replace your fet. Also, providing your installer is an authorized MTX dealer, you do have a 3 year warranty. Meanwhile, we have to start somewhere, so let's begin with the following steps.
1) Ensure that your ignition and any after market accessory Power Switches that you may have are in the OFF position. Now check on the 8302 and ensure that the LED isn't lit.
2) Until we know the exact corrective measure to apply, Decrease both Gains located on the left hand side of your amp by at least 50% for now. In any case, we know that the safety features of your amp are functioning properly, thus preserving the components. Please update your post with your observations and developments and I will do the same...good luck my friend

One more thing I want to throw in for now. Let's make sure that your vehicle hasn't developed a voltage problem. While your vehicle is at flat idle, turn on your headlamps. If you have somebody at hand to check/watch for you, rev your engine, and have them look for changes in the brightness of your lamps. You could do this on your own if it's dark enough, and you're close enough to a wall.One more thing I want to throw in for now. Let's make sure that your vehicle hasn't developed a voltage problem. While your vehicle is at flat idle, turn on your headlamps. If you have somebody at hand to check/watch for you, rev your engine, and have them look for changes in the brightness of your lamps. You could do this on your own if it's dark enough, and you're close enough to a wall.

Hi Dan....okay..now we need to focus on your voltage/amperage issue. Until we get the source of our problem, I STRONGLY advise you to discontinue powering up any of your stereo equipment before we lose it all. Update me with any info. on the alternator such as make & complete model#, when was it installed, and was it professionally installed.....hang in thereHi Dan....okay..now we need to focus on your voltage/amperage issue. Until we get the source of our problem, I STRONGLY advise you to discontinue powering up any of your stereo equipment before we lose it all. Update me with any info. on the alternator such as make & complete model#, when was it installed, and was it professionally installed.....hang in there

Sorry Dan...again one-one more thing...examine your capacitor and make sure that it isn't fused together, and let me know if there's a fuse between the capacitor and the battery, if so, that fuse is now likely "fused" as well. BE VERY CAREFUL around that capacitor, it's charged with an incredible amount of voltage and amperage, and will likely require discharging before anything else can be done by yourself....again, this is a very dangerous and volatile item my friend...please use extreme caution.Sorry Dan...again one-one more thing...examine your capacitor and make sure that it isn't fused together, and let me know if there's a fuse between the capacitor and the battery, if so, that fuse is now likely "fused" as well. BE VERY CAREFUL around that capacitor, it's charged with an incredible amount of voltage and amperage, and will likely require discharging before anything else can be done by yourself....again, this is a very dangerous and volatile item my friend...please use extreme caution.

Hi Dan...ok I'm caught up with your comments and will start crunching again. I'm glad you're taking proactive measures in protecting what you have, so you're actions are easing my fears. Please email the pics to chris2244746@yahoo.com and it'll be forwarded to my primary email. Also, the immediately replacement fuse is likely caused by the cap being "empty", and in the process of charging it, of course, there is no way it can handle that kind of current. Caps are usually taken off-line and pre-charged using a resistor, and that's when it becomes an explosive device.....trivia..."cap" wasn't originally coined as an abbeviation for capacitor...it was in reference to a Blasting Cap.Hi Dan...ok I'm caught up with your comments and will start crunching again. I'm glad you're taking proactive measures in protecting what you have, so you're actions are easing my fears. Please email the pics to chris2244746@yahoo.com and it'll be forwarded to my primary email. Also, the immediately replacement fuse is likely caused by the cap being "empty", and in the process of charging it, of course, there is no way it can handle that kind of current. Caps are usually taken off-line and pre-charged using a resistor, and that's when it becomes an explosive device.....trivia..."cap" wasn't originally coined as an abbeviation for capacitor...it was in reference to a Blasting Cap.

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

first of all you should check the minimal impedance your amp handles , if is class d it should handle between 1-2 ohms total impedance in a mono conection , meaning whatever quantity of subs you have hooked to your amplifier,their total impedance should the minimum the amp handles that way all the power from your amplifier will be used.

Make sure that when you hooked up your 4 channel amp to the remote turn on lead it is the same as the sub. Only hook amps to the Blue w/ white strip. The solid blue is power antenna lead and will lose power when on CD, ipod etc and only stays powered when the Tuner is on. Hope this fixes your problem.