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REMOVE CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 1. Loosen clutch adjuster to obtain slack in the clutch cable (2) by performing the following: a. Locate cable adjuster (1) and slide off rubber boot (4). b. While holding cable adjuster with 1/2-inch wrench, loosen jam nut (3) using a 9/16-inch wrench. c. Turn cable adjuster until there is a large amount of free play at hand lever. 1 2 3 4 is 00889 1. Cable adjuster (1/2-inch) 2. Cable end 3. Jam nut (9/16-inch) 4. Rubber boot Figure 1. Clutch Cable Adjuster 2. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1), pivot pin (2) and clutch cable anchor pin (3) from the hand lever. 2 3 1 is 00891 1. Retaining ring 2. Pivot pin 3. Clutch cable anchor pin Figure 2. Clutch Cable Compoments 3. See Figure 3. Drain transmission lubricant and remove fill plug dipstick. Remove the six screws that hold the clutch release cover in place. Remove the clutch release cover, being careful not to damage the gasket. NOTE The clutch release cover gasket (P/N 36801-87B) will need to be replaced if torn or damaged to prevent transmission fluid from leaking from the release cover. 4 3 5 2 6 1 is 00894 Figure 3. Clutch Release Cover Screw Sequence 4. See Figure 4. Note position of retaining ring opening. Retaining ring opening must be positioned in approximately the same location during reassembly. Remove retaining ring (1). 5 4 1 3 2 is 00895 1. Retaining ring 2. Inner ramp 3. Cable fitting 4. Clutch cable 5. Ramp coupling Figure 4. Clutch Cable Connection 5. Pull inner ramp (2) and coupling (5) out of side cover. Hold inner and outer ramps together to keep balls from falling free. 6. Rotate the inner ramp to a position that will allow the coupling (5) to be disconnected from the inner ramp lever arm. Disconnect coupling from inner ramp. Disconnect cable end from coupling. 7. Back out threaded cable fitting from side cover. Ensure that o-ring is removed with cable. Discard o-ring. INSTALL CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 4. Obtain braided stainless steel clutch cable from kit. Apply a light coat of oil on new o-ring and install o-ring (Part Number 11179) onto threaded portion of clutch cable (4). Insert clutch cable fitting (3) into clutch release cover. Do not tighten cable fitting at this time. 2. Connect cable end to coupling. Rotate ramps for best access and install coupling on inner ramp. Place ramp assembly in position in side cover. 3. Install retaining ring. Position retaining ring opening so it is located approximately over the outer ramp tang (the stop that prevents rotation). NOTE Replace clutch release cover gasket if torn or damaged. 4. See Figure 3. Place gasket, if removed, on side cover and install side cover. Tighten the six screws in the order shown to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) . 5. Tighten the clutch cable fitting to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . 6. Place a few drops of oil inside cable housing. 7. Route clutch cable as follows: SOFTAIL MODELS FXSTD, FLSTS, FXSTS and FXST – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame, up along the front frame downtubes and across the front of the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. FLSTF and FLSTC – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame and up along the front frame down- tubes, up to and behind the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. DYNA MODELS FXDWG – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, under frame and across to the left side. See Figure 5. Insert cable (1) into clip (2) at the bottom left side of the frame

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CLUTCH CABLE REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery or main fuse following the instructions in the appropriate Service manual. 2. When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing and existing cable strap locations. New straps can be installed in the same locations. 3. Remove the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 4. If installing different handlebars, install them now (refer to the appropriate handlebar instruction sheet) and measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the clutch lever. Install proper length clutch cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00448b) 5. Compare the additional required length to the cable provided in your kit. If the cable is more than two inches (50.8 mm) longer or more than one inch (25.4 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. CLUTCH CABLE INSTALLATION Sportster and Softail Models Do not over-tighten clutch cable threaded end fitting. Use recommended torque values. Damage to threaded fitting can lead to loss of transmission fluid, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00449c) -J04568
NOTE Damage to the clutch cable threaded end fitting due to improper handling/installation is not covered under the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Warranty. 1. See Figure 11. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the new O-ring (2) before installing the O-ring onto the threaded portion of the clutch cable end. 2. Install the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). 3. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet. FLTR Models with Fairing Lowers 1. See Figure 1. Carefully twist the clutch cable around the coiled opening in the clutch cable guide (2) with the eyelet toward the left handlebar. 2. Route the clutch cable assembly down from the clutch cable clamp while crossing to the right side of the vehicle. Run the cable between the inboard side of the right frame downtube and the outboard side of the voltage regulator. 3. The clutch cable clamp, mounted on the engine guard, has two fingers, an upper and a lower. Feed the cable assembly under one finger and over the other. 4. Finish the installation of the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). NOTE See Figure 2. Adjust the clutch cable clamp to 2.25 ± 0.25 in. (57.15 ± 6.35 mm) as measured from the inside lower left fairing mount to the clutch cable clamp. 5. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet.

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1. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Loosen the vent hose on the cover. Remove the clutch cover bolts (10mm socket) and take the clutch cover off. You will need to unplug the wires from the electric actuator and small sensor in the center of the clutch cover to totally remove the cover. To unplug the wires from the sensors, follow the wires to the connections under the plastic side panel and unplug at that location. 2. Remove the primary clutch bolt (19mm socket). This is a left threaded bolt. Insert clutch puller by hand (right hand threads) and tighten until clutch pops off the shaft. This tool is available from EPI, part number PCP-10. Loosen the secondary clutch nut (27mm socket) and remove both clutches at the same time. When you slide the secondary clutch of the machine there are four metal roller pins inside the center shaft of the secondary clutch. These will normally stay in place but if one does fall out refer to assembly instructions in step #6. 3. Disassemble the primary clutch by removing the eight bolts on the cover plate (10mm socket) and remove the spring. Remove one nut (10mm) on the bolt that holds the weight in place, slide the pin out of the clutch and remove the weight. Install EPI weight making sure the tip of the weight is resting on the inside ledge of the clutch. Slide bolt through the holes in the clutch and the weight and install the nut. Repeat this step for the other three weights. NOTE: If your kit has two different gram weights, for example two 54 and two 56 weights, be sure to place them directly across from each other (or every other one). This keeps the clutch in balance . 4. Install the EPI spring and bolt the clutch cover back on using a criss-cross pattern to tighten down the cover. There is a mark on the cover plate and the spider usually in the form of a dot or arrow in the casting. These are alignment marks and must line up when the clutch is assembled. 5. EPI recommends cleaning your clutches when you have them off your machine. Use a clean rag or towel with contact or brake cleaner that does not leave any oily film. Clean all parts of the clutch except for the clutch bushings. Solvent can damage your bushings; just use a dry rag to clean them

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Details: All R 850/R 1100 and K 1200 RS models produced from December 1997 have received a new clutch disc, manufactured by VALEO, and a new pressure plate (see applicable part numbers below). Earlier production for both series can be fitted with the new parts. However, due to changes in specifications (a thicker pressure plate, a thinner clutch disc), the new VALEO clutch disc is not compatible with the old pressure plate. In this application, the new clutch disc and pressure plate must be replaced as a pair. Series Production: R 850/R1100 models: Starting with December 1997 production. K 1200 RS: Starting with December 1997 production. Part Number: R 850/R1100 Models: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 325 864 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 R 850/R1100 models: VALEO Clutch Disc with reduced play on gearbox input shaft (KD – Scheibe): 21 21 2 325 862 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 K 1200 RS: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 332 973 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 332 974 Attention: For R 850/R1100 and K 1200 RS models with production dates of 12/97 and later, all clutch parts can be replaced individually, as the new pressure plate will already be installed. On earlier production examples, installing the new VALEO clutch disc without replacing the pressure plate will not allow the clutch to completely disengage.

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If installing with Ducati OEM basket you need the washer cod. 0D1SR140C220045 (3mm). – If installing with STM basket (Z12 o Z48) you need the washer cod. 001MG019 (1,5mm). – Insert the correct washer on the gear shaft. – Perform the initial hub group assembly: position the progressive engagement steel plate (003MG015) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C) , with the step facing up. Be careful to position it correctly into the specific seats, then check that pushing one side, the opposite stand up simultaneously. – Now put the 6 steel balls (001MG025) at the bottom of the grooves using a little bit of grease. Then fix the clutch drum (0F3SR140J24002C) on the clutch hub (0F3SR140J24001C) at rest position, using an M6 screw to help locking the two parts, avoiding in this way any possibility for the steel balls (001MG025) to fall out while inserting the hub pack on the main shaft. – Insert the hub pack on the gear shaft – Insert the clutch discs starting with the sintered one and finishing with the steel guided one; total disc set thickness must be included between 36 and 36,5mm. – Remove the M6 screw from the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Put the drum stopper hub (003MG106) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Verify that the secondary spring support (0F3SR540B140016) is well inserted into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Insert the secondary spring (0S2085) into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Mount the pressure plate (003MGP10) on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C) . – Position the Evoluzione spring (0S1090) on the pressure plate (003MGP10), with the convex part facing up (STM logo facing up), making sure previously that the squared section ring (901SE003), which works as primary spring support, is well positioned into the pressure plate itself. – Assemble the complete spring stopper pack: starting from the spring stopper plate (003MG008), with the shaped side facing up as shown in the picture. Insert the ball bearing (003MG007) and finally the spring stopper hub (0F3SR140N220007). Once completed these operations, position the complete spring stopper pack inside the Evoluzione spring (0S1090). – Insert the toothed washer (901RD101) with the convex side facing up, then insert and tighten up the clutch nut (0F30S140C220013); use a dynamometric wrench setting the torque suggested by the bike manufacturer. We suggest to use the specific optional tool (UTL-0020) in order to lock the pressure plate (003MGP10) while performing this operation. – Assemble the complete bearing rest pack: insert the washer (001MG018) in its housing on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004). Then put in the same housing the ball bearing and the push rod pin of the original clutch. – Position the complete bearing rest pack in the pressure plate (003MGP10), making sure it fits correctly into the housing grooves. – Manually practise a little pressure on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004) in order to release the seat for the tightness circlip (003MG018). – Fit correctly the above mentioned tightness circlip (003MG018). MAKE SURE that it adheres to all the groove perimeter. NB: Once completed the installation, repeatedly operate the clutch lever, checking that the pressure plate performs correctly the opening and closing movements. For a road use of the clutch you have to check clutch plates set every 2000 km. Please verify that the clutch plates set thickness is between 36,5mm and 35,0mm. If it is inferior to 35,0mm please replace a 1,5 steel plate with a 2 mm steel plate. For a racing use of the clutch we suggest to check the clutch plates set thickness frequently. GENERAL SAFETY REGULATIONS – In this sheet are reported the directions to perform correctly the clutch assembly operations. – STM reserves the right – without notice – to introduce any technical change whenever deemed it to be necessary to improve functionality and quality of the products. – Assembly operations must be performed by a skilled technician and must be scrupulously observed. – Before mounting the clutch make a complete inspection of the various parts, in order to verify the possible presence of faults or anomalies on the motorbike. – Make sure that there are no missing/damaged parts in the package . – Some parts of the clutch and its components can have sharp surface: handle with care. – Some components of the clutch, because of their small dimensions can be swallowed: keep away from children. STRADA srl Via Campo Archero 20 10023 Chieri ( TO ) Tel +39 011 9422832 Fax +39 011 9471447 003 MG 018 Tightness circlip

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Now, the clutch safety interlock switch. The picture above shows the safety switch contacts. Once you removed the 2 screws holding it to the stock lever, you will need to cut the copper plate on the switch. There are 3 wires: Green, Black with yellow and Blue. You do not use the green wire. You will need to attach the supplied terminals to the remaining wires and slip the supplied rubber boot over them as you attach them to the hydraulic clutch lever. In the photos, the boot is installed and also removed, and with my finger, I am pointing to its location. I did not bother to install the clutch interlock switch and removed the wiring harness completely, but unplugging it from the connector behind the instrument panel. Next, you must remove the clutch cable from the lever in order to pass the cable under the steering head he picture above shows the attachment at the clutch actuator Once the clutch cable is removed from the lever, remove the bolt holding it at on the engine case and disconnect the clutch cable from the pivot. The easiest way to do this is to pull out the clutch pivot assembly and the long “spike” out of the clutch plate hole. (It only goes back in one way, so you can’t mess it up.) he picture above shows that the routing is the same as the original clutch cable. With the hydraulic clutch assembly, pass the stainless steel braided line to the clutch “pivot” point at the engine casing. Attach the clutch cable to the “pivot” while it is removed from the engine, then insert the “spike” into the clutch plates hole (it can only go in one way).

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1. Vehicle preparation a. Shut off the fuel flow to the carburetor at the fuel petcock b. Tilt / rotate the quad over on it’s side so that the clutch cover is up for easy access. 2. Disassemble the old clutch a. Using a 10mm wrench remove the four bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the clutch cap. b. You can now remove the entire clutch lever / master cylinder, line and slave from the vehicle, although it would be easier to do at a later time when the vehicle is back resting with four wheels on the ground. c. Using a medium flat blade screwdriver, remove the clutch cap retaining ring and pull off the clutch cap. d. Place the throw out bearing and push rod aside as they will be needed later. e. Using a 4mm hex key, remove the six bolts holding the spring plate and springs. The spring plate will be required for auto clutch installation. f. With a 6mm hex key remove the clutch center bolt, and remove the entire clutch assembly and washers, leaving only the basket in place. The pressure plate (hub) will be required for auto clutch installation. 3. Clutch cover removal to replace thrust washer & eliminate oil shield a. Remove the water pump impeller cover (four socket head cap screws with 4mm hex key). b. Remove the water pump impeller (4mm hex key with piston stop or use an impact driver) c. Remove the kick lever (10mm wrench) d. Remove the clutch cover (5mm hex key)

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.