Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair. Yes it can be done on vehicle, yes it is easier to perform off vehicle, no you do not need to use everything I used, YES you absolutely have to use new rubber hose.

First off, a run down of the tools:
angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps
---------------------------
Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.
Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.
A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.
Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.
Here is the hose you should be using, I got it from NAPA, it's a couple dollars a foot, usually is stored in a roll in a cardboard box, just tell em how much you need and they'll cut it off the roll. It is the oil cooler line pressure rated @ 300psi, NOT the transmission line rated at 400psi.
The hose I purchase from my local napa is ATP1-4864, or just ATP14864http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...864_0282558052
The #s are 8002361 MADE IN U.S.A. CS111804 CAUTION- DO NOT STRETCH; MIN. 3" BEND X500
Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]
Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.IF PERFORMING FIX ON 2WD VEHICLE PAY ATTENTION!!When you tighten up the lines, make absolute sure that your hard lines DO NOT rub anywhere!! I was 200 miles from home on the highway when one of the hard lines coming from the radiator rubbed itself through on the power steering hard line. I was lucky to have enough hose and tools to bypass the oil cooler and get to my destination / home.

The bottom hard line is the original, you can see the rub on the left hand side, there is a pin size hole that dropped 1.5 qts of oil all over the underside of my truck.
Hope this helps!
Hotwire

you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list. I've seen at least 5 cars in the last 2 months where the trans lines or oil lines have blown off because someone's replaced the factory crimps with screw clamps. The screw clamps can't hold as tight as the crimps do and there's not a lot stopping those hoses from coming off besides the clamp. I'm in no way saying fixing the lines this way is a bad idea or shouldn't be done, I've done it plenty of times. You just have to flare the pipes for it to hold.

you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list.

Honestly in this instance it's not necessary. The factory lines have a bubble flare @ the end of the line and has machined grooves into the clamping area for greater hold, check the pics. If you're modifying other lines w/o a flare, then yes, by all means flare them before clamping. Double clamping is also cheap insurance. I've also had people ask if they can re-use the stock hoses. I would hold strongly to purchasing new line so you have a clean surface to clamp with.

I've got 12k on this motor / setup (pictures) and haven't had any issues. I'm hitting over 60psi twice a day while the engine is cold and the first 5-10 minutes of driving. I did the same on a 340 hp/ 440ftlbs LT4 conversion in a 89 s10 w/ a Melling high volume oil pump (80 psi peaks) and another LT1 swapped 4x4 converted to AWD. Not problems in either. The key is using the brake cleaner to completely clean all traces of oil from the mating surface before clamping it down.

It's the aluminum crimp connection that loosens and fails due to repeated heating/cooling/expansion/contraction cycles. You'd be wasting your time putting a clamp over the factory crimp, once oil makes it's way passed the connection, it will always leak. Also, the pipe clamp (hose clamp) would probably strip out before doing any good.

i think its safer just to buy new lines they only cost about $30 shipped from rockauto

I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya. To each their own.

Quote: Originally Posted by uhlhazard

Would this work on the pressure side of a power steering line?

Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps.

I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya. To each their own.

Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps.

I would recommend using Marine Fuel Line and stainless steel clamps. The Marine fuel line has about the best ratings and is virtually inpervious to breaking down.
Unless something physically damages the line, it will probably out live the truck. It may cost a dollar or two more, but you won't have to deal with it failing at an unopertune time.
Best of luck.

Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL

Seriously did you just get these at your local parts store or what ? Thx for any info and the good idea.

If they do, then you might want to rethink buying auto parts at Harry's House of; Beef, Pizza, Laundromatt, Barber Shop, and Auto Parts.

It's fuel line that meets and exceeds the ratings (oil, gas, trans fluid, Heat...). I always use Marine Fuel Line because it's higher ratings and I'm near a good supply. + they only sell stainless steel clamps.

If the parts store you go to cannot supply you with 1/2" high pressure oil/transmission/etc line, than take your $ else where. Don't get vacuum hose, do not get fuel line, do not get coolant hose. Get high pressure oil cooler line.

Here's the specs on the exact hose I got from NAPA, print this out and carry it with you when you go to purchase:

Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL

That is exactly what happened to me. I tried to find the line a few visits prior to the installation with no success. If I had read this topic after a few updates I would have hit the boat shop and grabbed some marine fuel line. Anyhow I replaced my radiator and went ahead and did the half of the job. The lines going from the remote oil filter to the radiator.

I went ahead and purchased a corded dremel and just used my 300 watt inverter to power it. My hoses were triple clamped from the factory but the dremel at speed 6 made short work of them. Also the lines where the hose goes had nowhere near the groove depth your lines had, but it was the same in style. I hit it up with brake cleaner and wiped it down with those blue napkins you get at the parts store and walmart from automotive.

I also grabbed some I think 7/8th stainless hose clamps (by ideal made in usa because the chinese ones have failed on me too many times). They are the narrow ones so I was able to double clamp everything just fine and I used your hotrodders trick when doing so. The line I purchased was 400psi 1/2 inch transmission line. I will be doing the other half with marine line and might even redo this half with that kind of line too.

Anyhow I just wanted to say thanks to the creator of this thread. I spent about 20 bucks on hoses, brake cleaner, oil line seals, and hose clamps. I spent right at 100 bucks on a dremel so that brings me up to $120 total. Not exactly cost effective in the short term but now I have some new tools!

When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry...
Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will.

That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair.

The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.

If you think that the people that design car parts are always right you need to open your eyes and realize that these oil cooler lines have been an issue for many years and they have never fixed the problem. I have worked at two different Chevy dealerships and these oil cooler lines were constantly on back order cause as soon as they go through one winter with them in a cold climate area, they leak. It doesn't matter how many times you replace them with new ones, give them one year and they will be leaking again guaranteed.

I say hot wire knows what he's talking about and I'm going to be doing this to my one year old oil cooler lines soon cause guess what? they leak. I have been told by more than one GM mechanic to use this method to fix them.

So if you don't want your lines to leak, you're gonna have to fix them yourself cause obviously the original designers didn't design them correctly, or the other option is to just keep buying new ones and replacing them constantly.

Nobody is wrong here, it's up to you if you want to keep replacing or actually fix it.

When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry...
Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will.

That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair.

The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.

I'll continue to use my faulty windshield wiper controller boards because some engineer thought it would be OK for them to run the boards through a wave soldering machine @ high speed and cause cold solder joints on the large, heat sinking, power connectors from 1995 until 2001. I'll continue to use certified GM intake gaskets on my vortec 4.3s considering they DON'T leak and the engineers designed them to work that way. Reckon every motor needs a coolant pressure relief valve somewhere.. I'll continue to use GM catalytic converters because the engineers did such a fine job of figuring out how to keep the catalyst brick in place to keep it from bouncing around and breaking apart. Oh, my tailgate straps! Metal scissor straps were used from the 1940s all the way up until some engineer thought it would be better engineered to use low grade cable that deteriorates and snaps @ the bending point.. I'll continue to use those, they work so well! And my door hinge pins and bushings, man, those work GREAT!! Certified GM!! oh, my engineered a/c compressor, thumbs up!! Not EVERYONE that's owned a gm vehicle has had their compressor leak! Great engineering!! My gas gauge, wow, flawless, can't thank GM engineers enough for making that a great success! The perfect front geometry setup with the drag link and pitman arm, and idler arm, part houses have NEVER had to sell a pitman arm or idler due to the fantastic engineering that went into designing our steering systems! Those silly japanese people and their rack and pinion steering and sealed ball joints! They're always littering the roads with their parts that constantly wear down due to inexcessive engineering, what were they thinking!! The newer style vehicles don't have problems with their engineered coil on plug technology, or their horn relays blowing the horns dead, or the engineered straight 6s that are in envoys, they were perfect, they didn't have a single design flaw! Wow, I really need to watch what I post!

You're so right. Engineers have made this world so much better by figuring everything out for us, we that are so limited on our knowledge! Especially when a group of engineers decided to use soft, flexible, malleable, high heat expansion rated aluminum as a critical component to a soft rubber hose that contains our engine's life blood that heats and cools @ every drive cycle, sees spikes in pressures that expands the rubber hose, and they did it with such execution that there's never been a single problem with them. Nope, they didn't think to use steel retainers, higher pressure rated hose, AN fittings, just good ol cheap, light weight aluminum!

What I have done to my vehicle is of my own concern. Worm gear hose clamps have been around for many years and provide very adequate clamping forces for these scenarios. They do not have the expansion rate that aluminum has, so as the aluminum tubing expands and contracts, this clamp will hold strong. I have been working on cars for 19 years and have yet to see a worm gear clamp "loosen from vibration" unless installed improperly or used in a manner in which it was not rated for. All those cars from the 1940s up until the 1980s had SOOOOO many issues with hose clamps!!! MAN!!! IF I have a single problem with this design, I will update this thread so everyone knows to stop using the procedure. I continue to support it and answer questions becuase I am thoroughly convinced this works.

For those of us who are in capable of independent thought and think this original thread was a mandatory procedure they must run out and complete right away, let me add this, "PROCEED AT OWN RISK, NOT MANDANTORY, FOLLOW DIRECTIONS!, WARNING: ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN KNOWN TO CAUSE CANCER IN LABRATORY ANIMALS!, CAUTION: ENGINE FLUIDS MAY BE HOT!"

Now, run back and tell all your little mathematic buddies that you really need to carry numbers in order for things to work correctly.

WARNING! This post contains a multitude of levels of sarcasm, chagrin, and straight out smart assiness, read and apply @ your own risk!!

On a side note, I have been in the OEM engineering field for over 10 years. 98% of the time manufacturers are more worried about low cost solutions than longevity to problems. You silly twinkies think you're GM's main concern?? HA HA HHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! The power of advertising. Oops, sorry, typed too long, you're missing your cartoons and buddies on HALO..

Thanks Brian, I hate that flat out ignorance (Look it up in the dictionary) brings out the best in me. I may have misread what he posted, but after re-reading it 3 times, I figured I'd go ahead and type out what I was feeling.

Contrary to popular belief automotive engineers are NOT the ultimate in authority, ingenuity, or creativeness. Yes, there are some people that stand out, but most of the time it's just people shoveling sh!t to get a pay check. I live in that world and know these people.

PS, 19K on my soon to be vibrated loose clamp solution on my blazer, just changed the oil, lines still look like the above pictures, no seepage, no drips, nothing. I printed out my document and followed it to a T, because it was engineered to do that.

I would rather remove them than do this. I removed mine and drove for a few years no problems. Unless you do heavy towing or live in 100+ deg heat all the time, just remove the lines, remove the adapter, screw the oil filter right to the block. There were many threads on this a while back just search. I dont think this is sticky worthy, there have been more informative threads in the past.

I would rather remove them than do this. I removed mine and drove for a few years no problems. Unless you do heavy towing or live in 100+ deg heat all the time, just remove the lines, remove the adapter, screw the oil filter right to the block. There were many threads on this a while back just search. I dont think this is sticky worthy, there have been more informative threads in the past.

But the oil cooler was engineered into that truck!!! You're going against an engineered component that GM put on your vehicle!! BLASPHEMY!!!

I apologize that you don't find this sticky worthy, what would you like to see in order for it to be a more worthwhile sticky? (seriously) I thought I covered all the bases and did a pretty good job showing what needs to be done in order to repair leaky cooler lines, that's the title of this thread, not discussion on whether to keep it or remove it.. I'd jump at every chance I could get to keep temperatures of every component in the engine bay cooler, oil, trans fluid, coolant, etc..

Adam, I triple clamped my power steering lines with bifurcated slag-aluminum double hump cardigan clamps. I think the electrical tape is what kept them from leaking.. (not seriously)

Thanks hotwire again, not sure why people are giving you ANY shit about this mod. For us 4x4 owners or people who prefer an oil cooler hotwires guide is spot on. Plus if I somehow manage to install an oil filter on my truck without having the relocation then my front drive shaft would tear it a new asshole.

Thanks hotwire again, not sure why people are giving you ANY shit about this mod. For us 4x4 owners or people who prefer an oil cooler hotwires guide is spot on. Plus if I somehow manage to install an oil filter on my truck without having the relocation then my front drive shaft would tear it a new asshole.

sticky envy? Jealousy over the 18.2 million dollars I received for taking some pictures and hanging myself out in the cyber world to help others? Maybe it's the fact that I took time away from my daughters and wife to post this and help anyone that has problems. ..maybe they're keeping us busy by posting here but they've secretly copied it and are selling it on ebay!?!?!?!

I'm just having fun with this. Hopefully others will learn from the well rounded discussions, correct spelling, and accurate punctuation we use to better themselves in life.

sticky envy? Jealousy over the 18.2 million dollars I received for taking some pictures and hanging myself out in the cyber world to help others? Maybe it's the fact that I took time away from my daughters and wife to post this and help anyone that has problems. ..maybe they're keeping us busy by posting here but they've secretly copied it and are selling it on ebay!?!?!?!

I'm just having fun with this. Hopefully others will learn from the well rounded discussions, correct spelling, and accurate punctuation we use to better themselves in life.

hotwire, how many miles do you have on this setup? the last i saw was you had 12K back in march. Any leaks yet??

Your method may not be leaking yet, but they could in the future. I'm not saying they will certainly leak, but nobody will know for sure until you put 100-200k on the system.

i will be replacing my lines with OEM simply because they lasted 175k. i know for sure that they will hold up. As of now i only know that yours have been leak free for 12k. If the new lines will last 175K more miles i will be just fine.

hotwire, how many miles do you have on this setup? the last i saw was you had 12K back in march. Any leaks yet??

Your method may not be leaking yet, but they could in the future. I'm not saying they will certainly leak, but nobody will know for sure until you put 100-200k on the system.

i will be replacing my lines with OEM simply because they lasted 175k. i know for sure that they will hold up. As of now i only know that yours have been leak free for 12k. If the new lines will last 175K more miles i will be just fine.

just my opinion.

MY GOD PEOPLE...

So you're saying that in order for this simple, cheap & effective mod to be acceptable in your opinion that it has to last for 175k miles?? Hmm, that sounds pretty logical. And speaking of logical...just because your first set of lines lasted 175k doesn't necessarily mean your second set will.

In addition to the fact that MOST of the people on this forum don't drive their trucks 350k miles let alone 175k.

Do you even know why this mod was done?? Because these lines have a tendency to leak BEFORE you're saying. Not because they leak AT that point.

Again, if you were to actually read and comprehend what's being said you would have realized that the original design of the "clamp" was somewhat inadequate. Because of the heat/cooldown cycles the aluminum becomes soft and lets just that little squirt of oil through. And then the path is officially open for more to come. Which is what has happened to some of these guys.

So for those of us with a few tools, some elbow grease, a few feet of hose and 98 cents worth of clamps we can fix these lines. OR you can order them new from your dealer and spend a few bucks more and feel that little tingly feeling inside. What is that little tingly feeling? That's SADNESS because you just got ripped off by the dealer on a set of 10-dollar lines.

Oh, and next time your battery goes dead, just buy another one. Why put a charger on it. Flat tire? Why patch it? New ones work better...

So you're saying that in order for this simple, cheap & effective mod to be acceptable in your opinion that it has to last for 175k miles?? Hmm, that sounds pretty logical. And speaking of logical...just because your first set of lines lasted 175k doesn't necessarily mean your second set will.

so you are basically saying the clamp on method wont last as long as the OEM method?

how long do you think they will last before they start leaking?

i just want some sort of proof that that will last a long time and wont leak. so far all i know is hotwire has 12K on his truck(as of march) and no leaks yet.

Do you even know why this mod was done?? Because these lines have a tendency to leak BEFORE you're saying. Not because they leak AT that point.

I know all the oil cooler line gods dont tell all the oil lines to leak at once.

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

Again, if you were to actually read and comprehend what's being said you would have realized that the original design of the "clamp" was somewhat inadequate. Because of the heat/cooldown cycles the aluminum becomes soft and lets just that little squirt of oil through. And then the path is officially open for more to come. Which is what has happened to some of these guys.

yes i can read, i made it through grade school

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

So for those of us with a few tools, some elbow grease, a few feet of hose and 98 cents worth of clamps we can fix these lines. OR you can order them new from your dealer and spend a few bucks more and feel that little tingly feeling inside. What is that little tingly feeling? That's SADNESS because you just got ripped off by the dealer on a set of 10-dollar lines.

by the way, i work at the dealer

I guess you've done this to your truck, i'm assuming you dont have any leaks yet, how many miles do you have on it since you've done the lines?

My 97 had 140k on it when I traded it in, lines had about 60k on them when I did turn them in.

My truck has 148,201.7 on it now, did the lines back at 128k, no leaks, no seepage, just changed the oil last week, super clean. I can take pics if you don't believe me.

I think part of the culprit of the leaky lines is people using high mileage oil. Guilty. It softens the hoses up and helps the already inadequate clamping pressure of the aluminum crimps so you get seepage, not to mention the aluminum crimps...

My blazer is 4wd, oil filter has been factory relocated to under the radiator, so I do not have the option of simply removing the system.

The critical key to this mod working is getting the aluminum lines 100% surgically clean, if they aren't clean, they aren't going to seal properly, and it will leak.

I always thought to use normal oil because I figure if you want it to run like new then you have to treat it like new with the recommended oil and full synthetic doesn't hurt unless you have a cps seal leak that somehow dumps out 1 quart every few K miles.

so you are basically saying the clamp on method wont last as long as the OEM method?

No, sorry for the ambiguous sentence... I'm saying that just because the OEM lines (your first set) lasted as long as they did doesn't mean that your next set of OEM lines (your second set) will last as long as the first. I'm saying it's very random when they will start leaking.

Quote: Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

how long do you think they will last before they start leaking?

Again, sounds like its pretty random. Some have gone 187k while others only 50-75k.

Quote: Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

i just want some sort of proof that that will last a long time and wont leak. so far all i know is hotwire has 12K on his truck(as of march) and no leaks yet.

What difference does it make? 50k? 100k? 150k?

Again, I'd be willing to bet that you won't have that truck by the time it starts leaking again. Whether it's with another set of OEM or with this mod.

What I'm saying is this mod is simple and cheap. If it starts leaking before you expected then put on your dirty/greasy clothes, go spend the $15 again, and get back under there. I'm sure you've done some mod to your truck and had to go back and adjust, fix or replace. I know I have.

I think the thing to remember here is that this is HOT RODDING at it's finest. Finding a cheaper/easier way to modify your truck/car. If you wanted it fixed just like the dealer had it then take it to the dealer and have him fix it. While its there have him put on a cold air intake. God forbid one would void the warranty. Or get dirty. Geeezzzz...

No, sorry for the ambiguous sentence... I'm saying that just because the OEM lines (your first set) lasted as long as they did doesn't mean that your next set of OEM lines (your second set) will last as long as the first. I'm saying it's very random when they will start leaking.

Again, sounds like its pretty random. Some have gone 187k while others only 50-75k.

What difference does it make? 50k? 100k? 150k?

Again, I'd be willing to bet that you won't have that truck by the time it starts leaking again. Whether it's with another set of OEM or with this mod.

What I'm saying is this mod is simple and cheap. If it starts leaking before you expected then put on your dirty/greasy clothes, go spend the $15 again, and get back under there. I'm sure you've done some mod to your truck and had to go back and adjust, fix or replace. I know I have.

I think the thing to remember here is that this is HOT RODDING at it's finest. Finding a cheaper/easier way to modify your truck/car. If you wanted it fixed just like the dealer had it then take it to the dealer and have him fix it. While its there have him put on a cold air intake. God forbid one would void the warranty. Or get dirty. Geeezzzz...

i and a lot of people on this forum dont like doing things more than once if it is unnecessary. I never said that the clamp method wouldnt last as long as the crimp, but im not saying it will last as long either.

and my 95 with 184k on it is well past the 3 year 36k warranty, dont ya think?

and you dont make much sense using hot rodding. we are talking about slow s10s here

again i'm asking you if you've done this mod. and how many miles do you have on it sinse you've done it? I know hotwire's situation. whats yours?

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