Road Hole Restaurant

The Old Course Hotel,
Golf Resort & Spa,
ST ANDREWS,
KY16 9SP

There is no shortage of five-star hotels on the Scottish golfing circuit, but the famous Old Course overlooks the cradle of the game at the world-renowned links at St Andrews, specifically the hallowed Road Hole of the 17th green, and that's a hard-to-beat location. As you'd expect, the interior bears the elegant trappings of a top-class hotel, all swish drapes, squishy sofas and deluxe appointments, with the Road Hole Restaurant, with panoramic views across the stick-swinging action, Swilcan Bridge and West Sands Beach, done out in shades of gold. There are set-lunch, tasting and dégustation menus as well as the carte, with the kitchen working around a modern Scottish style. Given the surroundings it's no surprise to find luxuries of foie gras and lobster among the starters, the former in a pavé of foie gras with confit leg cromesquis, the richness cut by caramelised orange and cocoa granola - a well-conceived dish of top-class ingredients all perfectly prepared - the latter as a deeply flavoured dish of lobster gratin with parsley purée and hollandaise. Timings and techniques never falter and dishes are not too complex, witness tender loin of venison with smoked rosemary spätzle, carrot gratin and broccoli, or a robust partnership of Black Isle beef fillet and curried oxtail with cauliflower purée, Roscoff onion and red wine salsify. Fish treatments are pretty robust all round, as is seen in monkfish served with with persillade noisette, a langoustine, Morteau sausage and leeks. Breads are of the same high standards, canapés are a delight, and puddings include the appealing balance of flavours in caramelised bananas with blonde Dulcey crème and salted toffee. Staff contribute to a memorable experience with their clued-up, correct but unfussy and friendly manner.