I'm planning on removing the ultra40 boxes and replacing them with duplicates of the custom builds (the tres0 and tres1 boxes). And of course I'll be removing the X4600M2 box since it's taking up space and I'm not utilizing it... so that and the rest of the empty space will be filled with more boxes like the tres0.

I have more delta fans coming this week that will push 240cfm each (120mm) and those are going into quad0, tres0, and tres1.

Red: 4x Planks 48x3x3cm eachGreen: 4x planks (legs) 35x3x3cm eachBlue: 4x Planks 19x3x3cm eachYellow - 1x Plank 54x2x1.1cm = front metal plate of Video cards sit on it as seen here.Orange (small black line was a mistake and is the same thing) - 2x planks each side to support the yellow plank above = 5.5x3x3cm. These are located exactly 21.5cm from the ground.Long Black = you guessed it right = 19cm gapPurple are the actual legs and they are part of the green planks. The idea is that there is a gap between the floor and the motherboard and PSU for ventilation. Putting the red and blue planks (the ones sitting closer to the ground) higher or lower will determine that gap.

Not seen in the picture is the 2nd support plank at the back of the construction where the back of the video ards sit as seen in this picture.It is exactly the same as yellow above, but attached so that its longer side is vertical to the ground. It sits/starts exactly 14cm from the ground.

Basically you need one main plank with a total length of 4.5m and dimensions of 3x3cm or anything else you prefer Also make sure where the big black line is to put some supporting plank for the motherboard or it will bend nasty. And another supporting plank for the PSU to the right.

For people in the UK: Maplin has cheap standoffs that are good for anything. For example I've secured the PSU with them so it doesn't move/slide.

And one suggestion: pre-drill the holes and then put the screws, otherwise the screws will burst the wood if there are no previously created holes for them.Also place your video cards support planks at whatever height you require.And if you would like to put 5 cards then you would have to make the whole construction longer than 54cm as the PSU in the way of the last video card as seen here.

Any questions please ask.

If this post helped you and you feel generous you know what to do: 1P9tXFy9bVgzrfPGeV7F8np26ZtFdCCWvz

Trust me.... Me too. But it works for me for now. -- I did the heat/thermal calculations and I'd basically need 4 tons of AC in the garage to keep it at or around 68F. So open-air/open-case for now. Each card runs between 55C-70C depending on the ambient temperature outside. Garage stays around 120F.

I have 200A service/load center to my house. I added six 20A breakers to the garage just to run that batch of rigs you see in the picture. I have Kill-A-Watt meter on each rig to make sure I'm at or below 80% load on each 20A branch.

Trust me.... Me too. But it works for me for now. -- I did the heat/thermal calculations and I'd basically need 4 tons of AC in the garage to keep it at or around 68F. So open-air/open-case for now. Each card runs between 55C-70C depending on the ambient temperature outside. Garage stays around 120F.

I have 200A service/load center to my house. I added six 20A breakers to the garage just to run that batch of rigs you see in the picture. I have Kill-A-Watt meter on each rig to make sure I'm at or below 80% load on each 20A branch.

Cheers,Kermee

Well the good news is when winter rolls around you can heat your house!

I only had to add 3 dedicated circuits in the basement for my setup. It does pay to be an amateur electrician, hiring one would have been expensive!

Amen to that. The only way I could run my rigs without running it circuit overloads everywhere was to switch them over to 240v. I'm in an appartment, so my options are limited, but I was able to plugin to the 40AMP 240V outlet for my electric stove, and now all my power problems are over.

Kermee : Great set up !!! It's nice to have a clean datacenter setup... But I'm partial to the grass roots mobo on box cables all of the place set up.

Thank you. I'm planning on 'carving' out a contained room in the garage to house all the rigs after a bit and probably install gable vents to get outside airflow going... I don't think installing a 4 ton A/C unit would be the most effective. But once I'm able to get a room carved out, I can definitely get the rigs all 'properly' setup.

Amen to that. The only way I could run my rigs without running it circuit overloads everywhere was to switch them over to 240v. I'm in an appartment, so my options are limited, but I was able to plugin to the 40AMP 240V outlet for my electric stove, and now all my power problems are over.

That's GENIUS. All my heating, stoves, water-heater, etc. are NG (including my clothes dryer) so I didn't have any existing 240V 3-pole breakers in my load center. But tapping into a 40A 240V breaker is genius for sure.

I only had to add 3 dedicated circuits in the basement for my setup. It does pay to be an amateur electrician, hiring one would have been expensive!

Aye. Electricians aren't cheap, but as long as you know what you're doing... Once I get a room for the rigs carved out in the garage, I'm going to reroute and properly do the electrical in electrical PVC, etc. so it's all to code.

The same store sells a quality made three socket 240v extension cord too..

Oh, Nice... That could solve some power problems I have without getting an electrician out to map my power out for me. Had our electric oven replaced with gas a couple years ago but they may have pulled the socket out

I know from experience, acrid electrical smoke and burnt electronics, that when you expect an outlet to be 120v because of the connector and you plug a 120v switched device into a 240v plug you're just kinda screwed. Best to have the 120v as C13 and 240v as C14. Makes life easier. The power distribution on my rack all runs C14 for this reason.