Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Patchouli happens to be one of my favorite notes in scents. it gives perfumes a sort of depth for other notes to play in and as a note in itself, offers textures depending on the warmth of skin, weather and so many other factors

There are scents which exude earthy characteristics, so real, that the sheer warmth of damp soil is felt in scents like Profumum Thundra.....and in some like Bois 1920 Real Patchouly, this note is blended so beautifully, in almost poetic way with the vanillic sweetness and Amber..the result is a delightful perfume which offers amazing depth at each level and a sillage ever so mesmerising, that it never fails the wearer. an experience to be savored.....and then there is Givenchy Gentleman, a classic, which uses this note to acheive a certain ruggedness and bite to what otherwise is an oriental. such a departure for it's time, a masterfully crated scent....which then takes me to Parfumerie Generales Ingrant Patchouli, which uses this note along with sweet notes of vanilla and a intense note of dried tobacco leaves..here in india, chewing Tobacco is fairly common and some shops keep different types of chewing tobacco...the note in IP is fairly reminiscent of this smell....however this when teamed up with patchouli, dirty musk notes and vanilla creates an olfactory orgasm of sorts..a burst of delightful note on a cushion of patchouli...i would love to do 4-5 sprays of this one!!....and then there is Montale Black Oudh, when montale combined this note with Oudh, he sort of created history and laughed his way to the bank...the basenotes of Black Oudh simply cannot be matched, i hope i'm wrong, but i feel, the texture that BA creates towards the basenotes is imho, created by just two notes...Oudh+Patchouli but, the olfactory image tells a different story altogether

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Not a huge patchouli fan, mostly because they can smell either green and quite nice or like body odor and quite vile on me, just depends on the scent. I do think Etro's Patchouly is quite nice for a predominately patchouli scent. I also like Neonatura Cocoon which is cocoa, vanilla and patchouli.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

The best - imo - is Chanel Coromandel because it's a patchouli based fragrance without the earthy patchouli notes that can whack you over the head. Close behind (same perfumer) is Borneo 1834.

For strength of Patchouli, you can't beat Montale's Patchouli Leaves - more than two sprays and you'll be in a cloud for a day. The most wearable is L'Artisan's Patchouli Patch, and the sweetest is PG Intigrant Patchouli.

I put the all of following in same category - high quality patchouli - but if you have one you have them all as there isn't much variation between them:

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Over the years I've come to the realization that patchouli and I don't play well, so there are only a few Patchouli scents I have tried and out of them, only a couple of which I can tolerate. The best so far is PG Intrigant Patchouli, it soothes me with its damp-ish earthy notes and mentholated airyness although I expected more, so was somewhat disappointed with this PG offering.

bbBD is so right about Montale Patchouli Leaves, I can appreciate it, but only after about 30 minutes into application when it settles down and the rather Givenchy Gentleman-esque (handling of the) patchouli tames down.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Patchouli Leaves is a must-try. Hard core Patchouzli top, Ambre Sultan drydown. Heavy stuff.
SL Borneo 1834 is the most amazing Patchouli-choc combo. Haven't tried Coromandel yet.
ETRO's is a very nice middle-of-the-road patchouli. Well made, good quality, but easy to wear. You may find it too conventional as a true Patchouli head.
do try the monster that is Villoresi Patchouli, though.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

I love patchouli based scents. My favorite right now is HOT Always by Bond. I know it's a blatant rip-off on Givenchy Gentleman, but it is so good.

I would have recommended both of those had you not mentioned them Ruggles. I am a HEEE-UUUGGGEEE patchouli fan (as perhaps noted by my favorite fragrances in my signature).

Jenson, you've listed some great Patchouli fragrances but you really must put Montale's Patchouli Leaves higher on your list, as in, to try NEXT. I think with you loving Ambre Sultan (I think I remember this?) and Bois 1920 Patchouly, Patchouli Leaves is a likely next candidate. Javagreen, that's interesting that you find this similar in it's handling of the note to Givenchy. I experience them quite differently, the montale settling into a golden amber that I love.

ANDDDD!!!

Please don't forget...... Comme des Garcons Luxe: Patchouli. When I think of it I start to breathe more heavily. Rich, golden, syrupy immortelle/fenugreek/patchouli. Oh that Santa Claus should be so good to me this year.

Both you and Vibert have gotten me craving to try Intrigant Patchouli. Sounds fantastic!

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

I was given a sample of Tom Ford's 2008 release White Patchouli, and I have grown to like a great deal (perhaps because it features very fine rose notes as well, I love rose!). It resembles Noir Epices to an extent and I saw in your review that you didn't like that one, Jenson.

Still, I think you should try it.

"- Harry, I have no idea where this will lead us, but I have a definite feeling it will be a place both wonderful and strange."

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by Noalick

I was given a sample of Tom Ford's 2008 release White Patchouli, and I have grown to like a great deal (perhaps because it features very fine rose notes as well, I love rose!). It resembles Noir Epices to an extent and I saw in your review that you didn't like that one, Jenson.

Still, I think you should try it.

Noir epices is one scent which i didnt take to liking immediately...but, it's growing on me...especially after half hour of application(still can't approve the plasticky top notes)

roses and patchouli yummm... reminds me of Voluer du Roses at Artisans...but seems(according to your comparison to NE) it's not blended in those lines...

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Some of these surprise me - I love Tiffany for Men dearly, but I think of it's sandalwood much more than it's patchouli - which is not a distinct note as far as I can tell. Same with Parfum de Merveilles - patchouli may play a supporting role but is not distinct. Otherwise this is a great list of patchouli need-to-tries.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Jenson, you have VdR listed twice in your visually impressive list, but no Patchouly Patch.

I second Etro Patchouly, and l'Artisan's VdR and Patchouly Patch. All good. I would also nominate Tom Ford Black Orchid - the patchouli is in there somewhere, it's just a bit hard to find, what with all the other stuff going on in that dirty, earthy, rotting, lovely mess.

Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by Snafoo

Jenson, you have VdR listed twice in your visually impressive list, but no Patchouly Patch.

I second Etro Patchouly, and l'Artisan's VdR and Patchouly Patch. All good. I would also nominate Tom Ford Black Orchid - the patchouli is in there somewhere, it's just a bit hard to find, what with all the other stuff going on in that dirty, earthy, rotting, lovely mess.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by bbBD

Some of these surprise me - I love Tiffany for Men dearly, but I think of it's sandalwood much more than it's patchouli - which is not a distinct note as far as I can tell. Same with Parfum de Merveilles - patchouli may play a supporting role but is not distinct. Otherwise this is a great list of patchouli need-to-tries.

A few points of clarification: Patchouli is crucial element in classic chypre accords. Tiffany for Men is one of the great men's chypres. Patchouli play a supporting role in Tiffany for Men, but a really important one. If you were trying to teach some one of the importance of patchouli in a classic chypre accord, Tiffany for Men would be a great place to start. I never claimed that Tiffany for Men was a predominantly patchouli based fragrance and certainly it is not. My comment was "To my nose, Ungaro Pour L'Homme I, Tiffany for Men, and Captain Molyneux, in that order represents to most skillful integrated use of patchouli in men's fragrances." Tiffany for Men is certainly the most light handed in it's use of all the one's listed here, but for me at least, it's an important use of patchouli. There are plenty of patchouli heavy fragrances, but often patchouli in supportive role reveals what magical things patchouli can do in fragrances even in small amounts. These were the lines I was thinking of when I mentioned Ungaro Pour L'Homme I, Tiffany for Men, and Captain Molyneux.

I am talking about the Parfum version of Eau des Merveilles, Parfum des Merveilles. Are we talking about the same fragrance because the parfum version certainly features patchouli up front?

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

scentimental - thanks for the clarification - I didn't mean to argue with you and I totally understand the role of patchouli in the classical chypre (Tiffany is all time favorite), I just wanted to put out there that someone sampling them will not get a distinct patchouli note. I have tried parfum de mervellies, but I don't recall patchouli. I'll have to try it again.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by bbBD

scentimental - thanks for the clarification - I didn't mean to argue with you and I totally understand the role of patchouli in the classical chypre (Tiffany is all time favorite), I just wanted to put out there that someone sampling them will not get a distinct patchouli note. I have tried parfum de mervellies, but I don't recall patchouli. I'll have to try it again.

Oh, no problem bbBD, I didn't think you were arguing with me. I just needed to clarify my the reasons for some of my selections given that the thread really was about up-front patchouli fragrances. A funny thing about the Parfum des Merveilles. Sometimes the patchouli is really strong and up front, sometimes it tends to stay in the background. I think this has a lot to do with how clean the skin is. For example, applied after a shower I would suspect the patchouli wouldn't show up much; applied 12 hours after a shower when the oils on the skin have had a chance to develop, it might show up more prominently. I think patchouli is an ingredient whose projection has a lot to do with body chemistry and how clean one's skin is. I think the other perfume ingredient that works this way is oakmoss. I have found sweaty, unwashed skin magnifies chypres and sometimes does really strange things to them. Just some ramblings of a febrile mind. I did talk about patchouli though Jenson.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by scentemental

A funny thing about the Parfum des Merveilles. Sometimes the patchouli is really strong and up front, sometimes it tends to stay in the background. I think this has a lot to do with how clean the skin is. scentemental

I'm glad you clarified this scentemental - I was a little puzzled when I read it. I own the Parfum des Merveilles and I really don't get get much patchouli from it at all. Not like I do with other, more patchouli prominent scents that I own (or have smelled more than once) that are listed above. Now, I want to smell it again, after reading this thread. This time I'll wear it when I'm 'dirty'!

jenson: In my opinion, Purple Patchouli and White Patchouli by Tom Ford are really not patchouli prominent fragrances. PP is just...weird. It's the only one of the TF Private Blends that has given me a skin rash. The last time I sampled it is going to be my last! WP is great, and I agree that it's rose/patchouli/hairpsray accord is evident - but if you are looking for a more complex scent in the same vein go for the one you mentioned Voleur de Roses, instead. Or, if you want something cheaper, try Cannabis Rose by Fresh.

"Human interaction can be hell. Or it can be a great spiritual practice."

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

for those who are interested to know lil bit more on this wonderful note...this is a overview of a Patchouli Organic (oil) from Madagascar.

Latin Name: Pogostemon cablin
Country of Origin: Madagascar

Description:
The scent of the 60's; when increased interest and traveling in India and Eastern cultures introduced Patchouli to the West. However, many people who base their perception of Patchouli on memories of the 60's have never smelled high quality oil. Distinctly herbaceous and musky in aroma, a good Patchouli Oil has a satisfying earthy quality, that is great to"ground"a person. It is a very rich and long-lasting oil. The aroma can be rather crude when the oil is young and grows more refined with age, as it becomes a valued"vintage oil". The scent of Patchouli will linger longer than most other Essential Oils, and should be used sparingly.

Aromatherapy Properties: Great skin care ingredient and cell rejuvenator. Helps to find peace of mind and is a wonderful aphrodisiac. Also a good masking agent for unpleasant aromas. Due to its remarkable staying power, Patchouli is a great fixative ingredient (a fixative is a substance that binds other compounds, slowing down their evaporation and thereby making their fragrance last longer).Suggested Use:Use a few drops in a diffuser to mask unpleasant odors, or to enhance the aroma climate of your home. Add in low doses to skin and hair care. If your partner likes this 'scent of India', you can surround yourself with it by adding 9 drops to 1oz. of unscented body care product, or adding up to 30 drops to 1oz. of Carrier Oil to be dabbed on sparingly as a perfume.

History: Most fabrics and carpets from India carry the scent of Patchouli leaves to repel moths and other critters. In the East it is also commonly used around the house because it is said to prevent disease and to release negative emotions, putting problems in proportion.Specific Safety Information:No known toxicity.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Patches are often so different from each other -- I really appreciate reading the distinctions between them before I try. Coromandel and Patchouli Leaves are two of my favorite fragrances -- both variations on Patchouli/Amber. Both nearly gourmand. I think that combo may be the trick for me. But I don't like Voleur de Roses (too girly-rosy) or Patchouli Patch (old-fashioned hippy patch to my nose) at all.

Patchouli 24 is another fragrance I wear a lot, but to me, it has nothing to do with Patchouli. I'm sure it's in there but I don't really smell it. Patchouli 24 is a weird gourmand -- first birch-tar barbecue with some leather, then radiant vanilla biscotti. Like come nibble some biscotti inside my furry Afghan coat! It's not exactly in the patch category.

Right now, I am so curious about these patches: Jalaine, Santa Maria Novella, Anat Fritz and the Micalief. Can anyone talk me through a sample order -- what makes each different?

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by lizzie_j

My favorite Patchouli, so far is Jalaine Patchouli. Absolutely rich and true. If you LOVE patchouli I strongly recommend sampling.

You said it!! I also have a love of patchouli, partly ascribed to my age. While I have, appreciate and enjoy Gentleman, Tiffany for Men, Voleur de Roses, Patchouli Leaves, and Patchouli Patch, I was hugely impressed several months ago when I experienced Jalaine's Patchouli Perfume Oil! As lizzie_j implies, it is the purest representation of an "iron fist in a velvet glove" metaphor of any patchouli scent familiar to me. Truly amazing.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

I have a small bottle of patchouli oil (15mls) that I have been carefully aging over the years, 17 years to be exact. It's amazingly intense, complex, rich, and super smooth. One drop is sufficient for 24 hours of redolent output.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Purplebird7 has a bottle of Santa Maria Patch I've tried. It is really dense & rich, I'd call it serious, even. It is the least sweet patchouli I've encountered. It feels a bit woody but almost charred and syrupy in it's density. Maybe Purplebird will comment.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

I have a small bottle of patchouli oil (15mls) that I have been carefully aging over the years, 17 years to be exact. It's amazingly intense, complex, rich, and super smooth. One drop is sufficient for 24 hours of redolent output.

scentemental

Ahhh..Zino..long time no see.

I'm too thinkin of getting different kind of patchouli oils from around the world....some sites are offering 10ml for anywhere between $20-$50..depending on where they are sourcing the patch from.... a whole new world for me! should be exciting!

Patch Oil aged for over 17 years?...wow....could you please suggest a scent which captures this texture well(just for reference)...?

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Originally Posted by kumquat

Purplebird7 has a bottle of Santa Maria Patch I've tried. It is really dense & rich, I'd call it serious, even. It is the least sweet patchouli I've encountered. It feels a bit woody but almost charred and syrupy in it's density. Maybe Purplebird will comment.

sounds right up my alley thnxxxxx!

Les Nereides Patchouli Antique also seems to be a good option...i dont' have to pay thru my nose for it!

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

The Santa Maria Novella starts out herbal, almost wine-y, and then it goes straight to the woody heart of the patchouli without any sweetness except that which exists in the patchouli, itself. As kumquat said when she tried mine, "it reminds me of a pirate's chest." You've got to love patchouli to love SMN. But I do love patchouli. My other favorites are Montale Patchouli Leaves and Black Aoud, Jalaine Patchouli, and L'Artisan Patchouli Patch. I even revel in the patchouli notes in Aromatics Elixir, another personal fave. Aramis has long been on my list of men's patch-based fragrances, and I have recently fallen for Givenchy Gentleman. There are many, many more that I fail to mention. Long ago, I used to wear straight patchouli e.o., but no more. There are too many artful ways to use this substance to its advantage.

Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

Right now, I am so curious about these patches: Jalaine, Santa Maria Novella, Anat Fritz and the Micalief. Can anyone talk me through a sample order -- what makes each different?

Jalaine patchouli is probably the best I've ever experienced (which is a lot). It is so rich and smooth you really just want to eat it. A lot of the Jalaine fragrances have an amber/vanillic feel to them, and this is no exception. It's way pricey as you know, but you literally only need a single drop for an all-day application.

Santa Maria Novella (which I just tested again last night and can still smell on me) is like getting multiple patchouli fragrances in one. It starts out as a 'standard' high end patchouli, not unlike Mazzolari. It's not as intense as Mazzaolari and it's smoother than Montale. By the time the fragrance reaches the heart, the patchouli takes on a smokier and more distinct aroma, and then it becomes more and more woody as it reaches the base. It's really quite unique. I myself have been trying to decide on a high-end patchouli to buy. Since I have a large decant of Montale already, I've been deciding between Mazzolari, SMN, Profumum, and Etro. I just need to try the Farmacita ss Anunziata version before I can make up my mind. As of now the SMN is the best of the bunch.