It gives us considerable pleasure to be able to
introduce you to this, the 5th and completely revised
edition of "Safer Hibernation & your Tortoise". In
the past 10 years over 70,000 copies of the previous
editions have been distributed to tortoise owners in
Europe, and a very great many lives have been saved as a
direct result. It is my hope that this new edition for
the United States will achieve similar success.

Unfortunately, a great deal of information presented to
tortoise keepers in the past has been grossly inaccurate
and sometimes positively lethal. Into this category
falls such advice as "never disturb a hibernating
tortoise", "make sure you leave plenty of air-holes in
the hibernating box", "give your tortoise one last meal
to see it through hibernation" and " provide plenty of
cat or dog food in the diet". The first is simply
incorrect, the last three can kill. How many unnecessary
deaths have resulted from owners following such
dangerous and misleading nonsense? We have a policy of
continually revising and updating this booklet to ensure
that it always provides the best information available.
Tortoises and turtles of all varieties are not 'easy'
animals to care for properly. When the tortoise trade
was at its height, more than 90% of all tortoises
imported in any given year were dead within 2 years -
most died during, or just after, hibernation. This
booklet has been prepared by the Tortoise Trust to help
you ensure your tortoise does not suffer the same fate.
All of the information presented has been carefully
prepared by some of the most experienced tortoise
keepers in the world in close consultation with leading
veterinary surgeons. The techniques described are in
daily use at our own tortoise sanctuaries in Britain,
the USA, and South Africa, and have been tried and
tested over many years. The effectiveness of these
techniques is such that despite hibernating possibly
more tortoises each year than anyone else, we have never
suffered a single hibernation fatality. In each case,
the methods used were those described in this booklet.
With proper care and attention to detail, you too can
achieve similar results.
Tortoises are now under threat worldwide, mainly from
habitat loss and in some cases from collecting for the
pet animal trade. Fortunately, some active steps to
conserve these animals are at last being taken. Much
more needs to be done. The endless destruction of
natural habitats must be controlled, and conservation
reserves created where these animals can continue to
breed and survive without human predation. Land
tortoises fresh water, and marine turtles all need our
help and consideration if they are to survive as
species. They must not be lost forever.

A.C.Highfield
Wales, United Kingdom, 1998

HIBERNATION & VARIETIES OF TORTOISE

Contrary to popular belief, most tortoises of the types
most commonly kept as pets do actually hibernate in the
wild. They do so, however, for much shorter periods than
they are frequently subjected to in captive collections.
It has been commonplace to attempt a hibernation of up
to six or even seven months, whereas in the wild these
same tortoises have been used to a hibernation rarely
longer than ten to twelve weeks. We believe in
replicating natural conditions as closely as possible in
respect of hibernation periods, and so we do not
recommend giving your tortoise an over-long hibernation.
Most fatalities occur either near the beginning, or at
the end of the hibernation period. The reasons for some
of these fatalities will be discussed in detail later,
but you can certainly improve your tortoise's chances
greatly simply by limiting the period of hibernation to
not more than 20 weeks at the outside. This, it should
be stressed, is for a perfectly fit specimen which is
fully up to weight. Tortoises which are anything less
than l00% fit, or are in any way underweight, will
require a proportionally shorter period of hibernation
under carefully controlled conditions; possibly they may
even need to be kept awake and feeding over the entire
winter season.
None of these creatures are in any way suitable as pets
for children, and should not be purchased as such.
The following information applies to the most common
species of 'pet' tortoise; Testudo graeca ,Testudo
hermanni and Testudo marginata. In general, the
requirements of T. hermanni, T. graeca, and T. marginata
and T. horsfieldii are all very similar.
Many of these tortoises exported to the United States
are from the Mediterranean. Some continue to be, due to
differences in laws. The same techniques are equally
applicable to Gopherus agassizzi, the California Desert
tortoise.
Many tortoise owners ask us to identify what species
their particular tortoises belong to. The following
notes should clarify the position, although specific
identification can sometimes be very difficult for
non-experts. This is mainly due to the very large range
of natural variations in shell pattern, size and
colorations encountered, even within members of the same
species. However, the general characteristics of each
principal terrestrial tortoise are as follows.

TESTUDO GRAECA ("Spur-Thighed" or "Greek" tortoise)

The main characteristic of T. graeca are the two small
tubercles or
'spurs' found on the thighs, one to each side of the
tail. There are a number of different races, and even
full species, currently referred to Testudo graeca
(e.g., Testudo ibera): there is unfortunately not
sufficient space here to describe them all adequately.
Their taxonomy is in any case far from straightforward
and in some cases is disputed - the Tortoise Trust
publishes several guides to identification so contact us
if you require more information.

TESTUDO HERMANNI (Hermann's Tortoise)

The Hermann's Tortoise is quite obviously different from
T. graeca; it lacks thigh tubercles or spurs; the tail
is long and fairly pointed, with an additional hard,
bony tip. The tail of a male specimen is, of course,
much longer than that of a female.

TESTUDO MARGINATA (Marginated tortoise)

T. marginata are found naturally only in southern Greece
- in fact they are the only 'Greek' tortoise which is
actually exclusively Greek in origin. They are somewhat
rare, and have been a protected species for a number of
years. Adult specimens of T. marginata can grow up to
300 mm long, and they possess a distinctively 'flared'
and elongated posterior margin - hence the name. Testudo
marginata is a large and impressive tortoise, and has a
quite distinct appearance. The males have a distinctly
narrow waist and very large flared posterior marginals.
Females are much 'rounder' overall, and do not have
quite such a profound flare.

TESTUDO HORSFIELDI (Horsfield's or Russian tortoise)

This species originates in Central Asia, principally in
Pakistan and Afghanistan. It is of a generally
light-golden hue with black markings, reaches a maximum
of about 250 mm , and combines the miniature spurs with
pointed tail similar to T. hermanni. It has a 'stubby'
squarish body, a long neck, and, most distinctively,
only four toes per foot. Hibernation is recommended, but
extra-special care should be exercised as this tortoise
is particularly prone to respiratory and skin
complaints. It requires a very low humidity environment,
and must never be subjected to damp. Large numbers have
been collected in recent years, and wild-caught animals
are common in the pet trade. Most do not survive for
long.

TERRAPENE (NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLES)

At least 4 varieties are encountered in the pet trade,
Terrapene carolina carolina (Carolina or Eastern box
turtle), T. carolina triunguis (Three-toed box turtle),
T. ornata (Ornate box turtle), and T. c. bauri (Florida
box turtle). At the time of writing all species are
still being sold as pets. Currently there is an export
ban on box turtles, causing an incredible number of
"surplus" turtles for sale in within the USA. Many who
do have box turtles overseas have experienced great
difficulty in trying to keep them alive in captivity.
These turtles are extremely sensitive to their
surroundings, and if proper conditions are not available
they die all too easily.
In reality, box turtles are really only suitable for
experienced reptile enthusiasts. Box turtles get their
name from their hinged plastron (bottom of shell), which
closes up completely concealing the animal's head and
legs as a defense mechanism. Animals sold in pet shops
are wild-caught (not captive bred) and are frequently
very nervous and reluctant to feed. Box turtles are
private, solitary animals. This stress inevitably causes
illness. The Tortoise Trust publishes separate,
detailed, advice dealing with their husbandry. However,
the main points relative to their care are that box
turtles require live worms, slugs and similar food
items, fruits and vegetables, a moderately warm
environment with reasonable humidity, and constant
access to bathing and drinking water. Box turtles are
NOT suitable vivarium animals and must NOT be kept in
tanks or similar enclosures. Box turtles are attractive
and fascinating animals, but do require quite different
conditions than other turtles. They are NOT "normal"
tortoises, however, and should never be treated as such.
Many species of tortoise appear in pet stores which DO
NOT hibernate. It is important that when purchasing any
animal, you identify it correctly, otherwise, obtaining
accurate information on its environmental or dietary
requirements will prove extremely difficult.

Hinge-back tortoises

Several African species: Kinixys belliana (Bell's hinged
tortoise), Kinixys erosa (Eroded hinged tortoise),
Kinixys natalensis (Natal hinged tortoise) and Kinixys
homeana (Home's hinged tortoise). As their names imply,
all have as a major distinguishing feature a flexible
hinged carapace.
Hibernation should not be attempted with these species;
they require a warm, very humid vivarium environment all
year round, or at least can only go outside in mild
weather. Otherwise, care is approximately the same as
for box turtles. One interesting feature is that African
hinge-back tortoises tend to be most active late and
night and early in the morning, a reversal of the usual
behavioral trend in tortoises. Their native diet
includes fruit, mushrooms, giant land snails and
millipedes. In captivity they enjoy melons, over-ripe
fruits of all kinds and a very limited quantity of
animal based food. A water bath should be provided at
all times.

HOMOPUS TORTOISES (Padlopers)

Although extremely rare, we have encountered several
specimens of these little South African tortoises in
captivity. There are five species, all endemic to S.
Africa; Homopus femoralis (Greater padloper), H.
areolatus (Parrot-beaked tortoise), H. boulengeri (Karoo
tortoise), H. signatus (Speckled padloper) and a
recently re-discovered species known as H. bergeri (Nama
or Berger's padloper). Most occur in Cape province.

GEOCHELONE SULCATA (African spurred tortoise)

Please be careful not to confuse this tortoise with the
similarly named Spur-THIGHED tortoise (Testudo graeca).
Unfortunately, Geochelone sulcata, the African spurred
tortoise is very frequently mis-described as the
"African spur-thighed tortoise" which understandably
causes a lot of confusion for everyone. The Spur-thighed
tortoise (T. graeca) and African spurred tortoise (G.
sulcata) are very different animals indeed. T. graeca is
a relatively small tortoise rarely more than 10" in
length, while an adult G. sulcata is two and a half-feet
long and can weigh almost 200 pounds!! In addition,
Testudo graeca can hibernate while G. sulcata does not.
The Tortoise Trust has books and other information
dealing specifically with Geochelone sulcata if
required.

OTHER TROPICAL TORTOISES

Geochelone pardalis is the African Leopard Tortoise.
Geochelone carbonaria is the Red Footed Tortoise.
Geochelone denticulata is the Yellow Foot Tortoise, and
Manouria emys is the Burmese Brown Tortoise.
None of these creatures are in any way suitable as pets
for children, and should not be purchased as such. They
all require very specialized (and very expensive)
housing and expert handling. They do not hibernate.
Separate care-sheets are available from the Tortoise
Trust which provide detailed information on many of the
species named above. The Tortoise Trust also has a video
and booklet available dealing with South African species

TO SUMMARIZE:

Do not attempt to hibernate ANY tortoise if you
suspect it may be a tropical variety. Consult us for
help with identification. The Tortoise Trust can
assist with identifying any tortoise, so if you do
have a tortoise you are not certain about, and you
send us a reasonable quality photograph, we can often
help.

When purchasing a tortoise from a pet supplier, it
is certain to be a species requiring very special
care. Obtain an accurate statement from the supplier
as to what it actually is, and be sure that you are
going to be able to provide the environment it needs.
Unfortunately, in our experience, the vast majority of
ordinary pet traders are not very knowledgeable about
the real needs of reptiles, so cross-check any
information you are given with a reliable, independent
source.

Remember that in general the smaller the tortoise
the more likely it is to end up as a hibernation
casualty. Very small tortoises must be given a
shorter, carefully controlled hibernation.

Never ever attempt to hibernate a tortoise which you
suspect is ill. To put a sick or underweight tortoise
into hibernation is to condemn it to certain death.

Dietary management

Tortoises which are provided with the incorrect diet for
their species can suffer serious problems, particularly
in respect of the liver and kidneys. If these are
damaged, the risks associated with hibernation are very
greatly increased. While some tropical tortoises and box
turtles
do require animal protein, desert species do not, and
nor do 'common' or Mediterranean tortoises. So, despite
what you may have read elsewhere, never provide meat
products to 'common' tortoises. In the long term, it can
and does kill. Tortoises require a diet which is HIGH in
minerals and vitamins, LOW in fats and proteins and HIGH
in dietary fiber. Meat products are totally the
opposite, and lead to enhanced urea levels, which damage
the kidneys and cause a massive build-up of fats in the
liver. The high phosphorous content of most meat
products also seriously affects the Calcium-Phosphorous
(Ca:P) ratio of the diet, which in turn leads to acute
nutritional osteo-dystrophy or "lumpy shell syndrome".
Our own tortoises not only survive, but thrive without
any meat products whatsoever, they breed successfully,
and the hatchlings have beautiful, perfectly formed
shells without lumps, bumps or pyramids. Living proof
that claims of the "necessity" of meat for tortoises are
entirely inaccurate.
Suitable dietary items for Mediterranean and Desert
tortoises can include:

Romaine or red leaf lettuce, in very limited quantities.
Never use head lettuces such as iceberg, head lettuces
contain very little in the way of adequate vitamins or
minerals. Opuntia (spineless) prickly pear cactus, pads
and fruit. Sometimes referred to as "Nopales", the fruit
are often referred to as "tunas", watercress, dandelion,
naturally occurring non-toxic weeds, hibiscus flowers
and leaves, white (Dutch) clover, both leaves and
flowers, rose leaves and petals, and sowthistle.
Most land tortoises can and do fare quite well when
allowed to graze, offering the other listed items as
supplements. Never offer cabbage, spinach, chard, bok
choy, or any vegetable related to these, as they inhibit
calcium absorption and can cause tremendous health
problems.

We do not generally recommend the use of pellet-type
commercial prepared diets, though some of these can have
a role when rehabilitating sick or severely underweight
tortoises. In general, their energy and protein levels,
as well as their calcium to phorsphorus ratios are such
as to make them unsuitable for use on a regular basis.

Add a mineral-vitamin supplement + extra calcium. The
use of cuttlebone left in the enclosures allows
tortoises to regulate the amount of calcium in the diet.
Some tortoises like this very much, while others will
not eat it. For those that won't, the use of a
phosphorous free calcium supplement is recommended.

Grass is actually quite a useful food for tortoises
(especially Desert, Leopard and African Spurred
tortoises) , but is not adequate by itself. It is
particularly useful as a source of dietary
fibre. Certainly many giant tortoises enjoy it as part
of their natural diet, and young grass shoots are
equally favored by many other species. Dandelions and
parsley are excellent, having a positive Ca:P ratio and
being particularly rich in vitamin A (14,000 i.u/100g
for dandelion, 11,000 i.u/100g in the case of parsley).
When feeding weeds or wild flowers, be sure that they
are free of weed killer or other lethal contaminants. On
the same subject, never use slug pellets or other garden
chemicals anywhere near tortoises.

Many people are surprised when we ask this question, not
as the first frosts are beginning to make their presence
felt, but as early as mid-August, when the days may
still be bright and hot! We ask in mid-August because,
as far as your tortoise is concerned, this is when it
reaches a classic 'go-no-go' situation as far as its
biological clock is concerned. Leaving the decision on
hibernation until September, October or November is
simply too late. If a tortoise is not fit to hibernate
by the end of August, then it is not going to be fit in
October. In order to survive hibernation in good
condition, tortoises need to have built up sufficient
reserves of body fat; this in turn stores vitamins and
water. Without fat, vitamins and water tortoises die of
starvation or dehydration. Adequate reserves of body fat
are vital to tortoises in hibernation; they live off
these reserves, and if the reserves run out too soon
then the animal's body will begin to use up the fat
contained within the muscles and internal organs,
eventually these too will become exhausted. At this
point the tortoise will simply die in hibernation.

Check:

BOTH EYES: for signs of swelling, inflammation or
discharge. If there is a problem, consult a veterinary
surgeon with extensive experience of treating reptile
patients.

THE NOSE: For signs of discharge; a persistently
runny nose requires urgent veterinary investigation.
Tortoises with this symptom must also be isolated from
contact with others, as some varieties of RNS ('Runny
Nose Syndrome') are highly infectious. The presence of
excess mucus also encourages bacterial growth, and
hence places the tortoise in additional danger from
diseases such as necrotic stomatitis.

THE TAIL: For inflammation or internal infection;
tortoises with cloacitis 'leak' from the tail and
smell strongly. Any signs of abnormality should be
investigated by a veterinary surgeon. It will help if
you take a fresh sample of cloacal excretion for a
veterinarian to examine under the microscope.

LEGS: Look for any unusual lumps or swellings;
abscesses are common in reptiles and if left untreated
can result in loss of limb or even death. Report any
unusual findings to a competent veterinary surgeon who
may want to X-ray the affected part.

EARS: The membranes covering the inner ear should be
either flat or slightly concave; ear abscesses are
very common and can have fatal consequences if
treatment is not obtained. The ear scales, the
tympanic membranes, are the two large 'scales' just
behind the jaw-bone.

INSIDE THE MOUTH: Look for any sign of abnormality;
necrotic stomatitis or 'mouth-rot' is a highly
contagious disease of captive reptiles. It is
characterized by the appearance of a yellow 'cheesy'
substance in the mouth, or by a deep red-purple tinge,
or by the appearance of small blood-spots. Sometimes
all three symptoms are present. Expert veterinary
treatment is called for as a matter of urgency if the
animal is to be saved.

These basic checks form your essential pre-hibernation
examination. Provided your tortoise is up to weight and
no other abnormalities can be detected, then you may
begin preparation for hibernation. The golden rule,
however, at all times is IF IN DOUBT SEEK EXPERT ADVICE.
Our experience is that owners who fail to act promptly
when problems occur usually end up, sooner or later,
with a dead tortoise. One final, and critically
important point before we actually deal with how to
hibernate your tortoise. Very many tortoises die each
year because owners attempt to hibernate them while they
still contain undigested food matter within their
gastro-intestinal system. It is natural for tortoises to
gradually reduce their food intake as fall approaches
(this is one reason why, if they are underweight in
August, they will certainly not have put on any extra
weight by October). A tortoise's digestive system is
governed to a great extent by temperature, but generally
speaking, when the animal's biological processes are
slowing down it takes between 4-6 weeks for the food
last consumed to pass completely through the
gastro-intestinal tract. In other words, do not attempt
to hibernate any tortoise if it has eaten within the
last month to six weeks. Delay hibernation rather than
allow a tortoise to hibernate while the possibility of
undigested food matter within the intestine remains.
Tortoises which are hibernated with food still remaining
inside are unlikely to survive in good health. The food
decays, produces large quantities of gas and causing
tympanic colic which brings about asphyxiation due to
internal pressure on the lungs. This error of husbandry
is also responsible for a number of serious, and usually
fatal, bacterial infections inside the tortoise.

HIBERNATION CONDITIONS

The two biggest killers of captive tortoises are:

Attempting to hibernate unfit specimens and

Failure to provide adequate protection during
hibernation.

Hopefully you have taken note of the advice given on
fitness for hibernation and so will avoid this problem.
Even fit tortoises can die in hibernation if the
conditions to which they are subjected are biologically
incorrect; essentially this means:

In practice the first is more easily accomplished. We
will deal with both accommodation and conditions
separately, and in some detail.

ACCOMMODATION

Our recommendations are for an outer box or carton made
from either wood or substantial cardboard. The inside of
this should be lined with blocks or chippings of
polystyrene, of the sort used in house insulation or
packaging. Alternatively, tightly packed shredded paper
can be used.
Select a second, (this time much smaller) box. Ideally
this box should accommodate the tortoise fairly tightly,
whilst still allowing for a couple of inches of
insulating material all around the animal. We are
sometimes asked why two individual boxes are necessary.
To answer this question one has only to monitor
carefully the behavior of a hibernating tortoise. A
tortoise in hibernation does not stay in one place, but
attempts to move, and it either digs deeper into its
box, or climbs to the surface. If it is allowed
unrestrained movement, there is a grave danger that it
may burrow through the protective insulating layers and
come into contact with the walls of the hibernation box.
Here it is virtually unprotected, and could very easily
freeze to death. Our sanctuary hospital is often full of
frozen tortoises in the spring, due to precisely this
error on the part of owners. It is all rather sad and
unnecessary, as the problem is so easily avoided with a
little care.

CONDITIONS

The critical factor here is TEMPERATURE. Temperature is
absolutely critical to a successful and healthy
hibernation. Insulation merely slows down the rate of
heat exchange, it does not prevent it altogether. Thus,
no matter how well you insulate, if you subject your
tortoise's hibernation box to sub-zero temperatures for
an extended period it will still get too cold.
Similarly, if you allow your tortoise's hibernation box
to get too warm for too long it will begin to use up
valuable fat and energy reserves, and may even wake up
early.

These critical temperatures are:

MAXIMUM = 50 °F or l0 °C

MINIMUM = 32 °F or 0 °C (Freezing Point)

- ALWAYS USE A THERMOMETER - IT SAVES LIVES!! -

Under no circumstances whatsoever should a hibernating
tortoise be subjected to prolonged exposure to
temperatures higher or lower than these. Failure to
appreciate the importance of this invariably leads to
death and injury in hibernation. Blindness due to the
eyes quite literally freezing solid is a particularly
unpleasant consequence of allowing temperatures to fall
too low.
The easiest way to check temperatures is to obtain a
maximum-minimum reading greenhouse thermometer from any
garden or hardware store. Check it at regular intervals,
hourly if necessary in very cold spells. If sustained
low or high temperatures are noted, temporarily move the
tortoises into a more suitable place until temperatures
stabilize to a satisfactory level again. Today, some
excellent electronic thermometers are available with
built-in alarms if the temperature goes outside pre-set
points. These are truly excellent, and can make a major
contribution to hibernation safety.
An ideal temperature for hibernation is 5 °C, or 40
°F. At this temperature tortoises remain safely
asleep, but are in no danger of freezing. Incidentally,
it is important to point out that the advice that a
hibernating tortoise should never be disturbed is
completely invalid. It has absolutely no basis in
biological or veterinary science, and should be ignored.
You cannot possibly harm a hibernating tortoise simply
by handling it.
We routinely handle our tortoises during hibernation to
conduct checks on weight. Provided the animals are
carefully replaced in their protective insulation, this
is an excellent method of checking on their general
condition. A tortoise which is losing weight to the
extent that it is approaching the danger line should be
taken out of hibernation and artificially sustained for
the remainder of the winter. Most healthy adult
tortoises lose about l% of their body weight each month
in hibernation. This is very easy to calculate. A l600 g
tortoise put into hibernation in October will lose about
l6 g every month. After 5 months hibernation it will
probably weight l600 minus 5 x l6 = 80, i.e. l520 g.
While tortoises must not be put into hibernation with a
stomach containing food matter, their bladders should
contain water. Therefore tortoises should be encouraged
to drink before hibernation, even though they are not
allowed to feed.
If, when checking a hibernating tortoise you notice that
it has urinated, get it up immediately do not put it
back. Recent evidence leads us to believe that should
this occur, the animal is in grave danger of death from
sudden, acute dehydration. If this action does occur,
begin re-hydration immediately, and over-winter for the
remaining hibernation period. We are undertaking further
research into this phenomena, but early results indicate
that the problem is most likely to occur towards the end
of the hibernation period, or in spells of unusually
mild weather where the temperature rises above 10 °C
or 50 °F. Check the tortoise regularly at such
times.

Hibernating Box Turtles (Terrapene species)

Box turtles require a higher level of humidity than do
turtles or tortoises of other species. Also, the period
of hibernation might need to be shorter, regular checks
on your box turtle are simple, and will enable you to
asses it's overall health status. Weight checks as well
as visual examinations to check for respiratory problems
during the hibernation period may be performed on a
bi-weekly basis with little disturbance to the animal.

The correct hibernation protocols for box turtles should
be as follows:

An area not subject to freezing temperatures.
Freezing will kill your turtle. In the wild, these
turtles bury themselves deep within the soil, below
the frost line, in order to keep from freezing.

Proper hibernation medium. Many keepers have
successfully used a combination of the following for
box turtles to hibernate in:

Organic potting soil, with no polymers, such as
Vermiculite™, Pearlite™, or other additives.

Sphagnum moss, shredded.

All of these items can be mixed together after soaking
the sphagnum moss in a bucket of water, then squeezing
it out so it is not "soggy," but still quite wet.
Combining the sphagnum moss with the organic soil helps
it to retain a good level of humidity, but not creating
so much that the turtle is exposed to a "wet"
environment. In the wild, box turtles are often found
hibernating beneath the earth, under fallen logs, under
rocks, or other areas that might have been used in the
past by other animals. This allows the animals to
maintain the humidity they need so they don't become
dehydrated, and also provides shelter during rain or
snow, at a temperature that is suitable. Depending on
the soil temperature, the turtle will move up toward the
surface or burrow deeper, keeping itself at a good
constant temperature. In captivity, box turtles are
often kept in areas that have little or no resemblance
to their home territories. In order to ensure safe
hibernation, please study the following guidelines.

DO NOT:

Hibernate a box turtle that has shown ANY sign of
illness, weight loss, or other ailment within the past
year.

Hibernate a box turtle the first season you have it,
as potential health problems may be latent and might
not have shown as outward symptoms.

Hibernate a box turtle that hasn't been completely
cleared of internal parasites.

Ever hibernate a box turtle in an area where there
is ANY chance of flooding. They can and do drown!

Hibernate in an area where the temperature is below
freezing if they are unable to dig deeply into the
soil for protection. This will either kill, cause
blindness or limb paralysis.

DO provide a safe area, protected from
rodents of any type. Garages often work well for this
purpose, provided the temperatures do not get too low.

In many areas of the USA, box turtles can safely be
hibernated in a place that they choose. If the area is
on high ground, the soil is soft enough for them to dig
deep enough to avoid freezing, and is an area that stays
damp, then a healthy turtle can be hibernated outside.
Rainfall is fine, and will not hurt a box turtle unless
flooding occurs. You can help the turtle along by
covering the area with dry leaves once they have "dug
in" to help prevent problems with frost. They often
choose an area such as the base of a bush, tree, or
other vegetation for their natural hibernaculum.
The method we have used most successfully for box
turtles which cannot hibernate outdoors includes the use
of VERY large Rubbermaid type containers that are deep
as well as long. After the turtle has stopped eating, or
starts to slow down, it is preparing for hibernation. DO
NOT offer any more food, it is extremely important that
the gut be free of any food items, as they may ferment
and rot in the gut during hibernation, often causing
death.
Add the mixture of sphagnum moss and organic soil.
Filling to within roughly 5 inches of the top. Substrate
should be at least 2 feet deep. If well mixed, the
substrate should remain nice and damp. Occasional
spraying or adding of water will keep it moist. With the
sphagnum mixed in, a far longer period can pass without
having to re-moisten the substrate. Sphagnum moss does
not seem to cause any problem with mold or mildew. Place
the sleeping box turtle into the container. It will,
even if it has fallen asleep for the winter, burrow
itself to the level it feels it needs to be.
We usually allow box turtles to start their hibernation
outside, long before freezing weather has a chance to
hit, and then transfer them a little later to our chosen
area. The transition always seems to go smoothly. Using
this method, place a probe thermometer into the soil to
monitor soil temperature. Also, another thermometer is
used to monitor the temperature of the outside air
temperature. Place a thick sheet of cardboard between
the floor and the hibernation container, as most floors
are either concrete or stone, and can cause problems
with the temperatures in the container. The container
may also be placed on a shelf.

NEVER place a sealed lid on the top of the container!
These turtles need to have a good oxygen exchange during
hibernation. Sealing a container will cause a build up
of lethal gasses. With many of the Rubbermaid type
containers, a lid is provided. Holes may be drilled
through the lid, at 2" intervals. Make certain the holes
are large, but not large enough to let any predator
inside! This helps to keep humidity up, keeps rodents
and other pests out, and allows for good oxygen
exchange.

Successful hibernation requires free air circulation.
40/45° F is a good temperature to aim for, but the
temperature does not need to stay constant, as the
turtles will move up and down in the substrate as
needed. This method also makes it far easier to carry
out regular health status checks. If you do find that
one of your turtles has become ill or appears to be
dropping too much weight, it is always possible to bring
it out of hibernation by letting it slowly warm to room
temperature inside. No turtle exhibiting any symptom of
illness or weight loss should ever be replaced to the
hibernation container.
Provided that this is appreciated, then American box
turtles can certainly be maintained very successfully,
and even bred in captivity.

OVER-WINTERING OR NON-HIBERNATING

Sometimes, either for specific health reasons or because
the animal is of a tropical variety, hibernation may not
be possible. Where this is the case, the objective must
be to keep the animal alert, feeding and in good general
condition throughout the winter period. Provided that
temperatures are adequate, and that both food and light
are also available in sufficient quantity and quality,
over-wintering tortoises is not particularly difficult.
Suitable accommodation must be provided. Can we please
stress that no matter how warm it is, an ordinary room
in a house will not by itself keep a tortoise feeding
and in good health. A very special combination of
background heat, localized radiated heat, and high
intensity illumination is absolutely essential. The
tortoise requires this 'spot' or radiant heat source to
thermoregulate properly and to maintain its own body
temperature (when measured in the cloaca) at around 2-3
°C above that of the surrounding area (it does this
by heat absorption, rather like a dark colored stone
absorbs a great deal of heat from the sun). You cannot
keep a tortoise feeding adequately by background heat
alone, so please do not try. At night the tortoise can
be removed from its daytime accommodation and placed in
a warm box situated next to a radiator to sleep. Again,
it is important not to let it get too cold, certainly
never below about 45 °F. In the morning replace it
in its heated area for the day. Tortoises need
approximately l4 hours of adequate heat and light per
day in order to feed properly and remain in good health.
Your task, as owner, is to provide them with an
artificial summer.
You can help your tortoise considerably by providing a
dietary vitamin and mineral supplement such as
"Vionate", or "Herptivite" (Rep-Cal) regularly, this is
particularly important when overwintering, as it
contains vitamin D3 which is usually synthesized from
sunlight. Vionate and Herptivite are excellent all round
products which are particularly well suited to reptiles.
It is obtainable through some pet shops, veterinary
surgeons, or from the address on the back page
Hatchling tortoises should definitely be given
Herptivite on a regular basis, not so much for its
vitamin content as for its mineral ingredients.
Additional calcium is also required, to reach a correct
Ca:P ratio of around 6 parts calcium to 1 part
phosphorous. These minerals are essential to proper bone
and shell development. Avoid all foods which have a
strongly negative Ca:P balance such as peas or beans,
cabbage, spinach, bok choy, or chard. Hatchlings can be
hibernated if their health and weight is good. A
hibernation of about 6 to l0 weeks is satisfactory.
Extended hibernations should never be attempted.
This is perhaps an appropriate point to remark on
vitamin injections. Unless the tortoise is suffering
from a specific vitamin deficiency disease, injections
are not recommended, and often cause potentially fatal
damage. Certainly we do not approve of 'routine' vitamin
injections before hibernation. If a tortoise is truly
vitamin-deficient at this point - and this is extremely
unlikely if it has been given a reasonable diet - then
do not hibernate it. Injections will not cure the
problem. Far better to build up vitamin and mineral
stores gradually by providing a well balanced diet.
Genuine cases of acute vitamin deficiency in tortoises
are actually quite rare; it is usually only found in
those which have been subjected to an extremely poor
diet over a very long period or where the tortoise is
otherwise ill. We suggest, therefore, that you do not
have your tortoise injected with vitamins, which it
almost certainly does not need. Vitamin injections in
any case do not help tortoises to survive hibernation.
This is accomplished by good husbandry alone. One final
point. Dehydration is a particular problem of
over-wintering,
and should be avoided by providing your tortoise with a
daily opportunity to drink. For details on how tortoises
can best be encouraged to drink see the next section.

WAKING UP

As the average mean ambient temperature begins to
approach the critical l0 °C or 50 °F point, a
tortoise's metabolism will begin to reactivate in
readiness for waking. Certain complex chemical and
biological processes are initiated as the animal
prepares to emerge into the spring sunshine. Upon first
emerging from hibernation a tortoise is depleted in
strength, has a low White Blood Cell (WBC) count, and is
very vulnerable to infection. Unless it receives
adequate quantities of heat and light it will simply
'not get going properly', and instead of starting to
regain weight and strength lost during hibernation, may
well refuse to eat, and begin to decline. This condition
in its most serious form is known as POST HIBERNATION
ANOREXIA, and has been the subject of some intense
veterinary research over the past few years. How to deal
with it is discussed in the next section. Hopefully you
will have followed our previous instructions, and your
tortoise will emerge in good condition. As the
temperature rises listen carefully to the hibernating
box - you should begin to hear the first sounds of
movement.
At this point, rather than follow tradition and wait for
your tortoise to emerge from its hibernating box itself,
you should remove the hibernating box from its winter
quarters and warm it up by placing it near a heater, and
allow it to warm gradually. After a few hours remove the
tortoise from its box and place it in a warm, bright
environment. Repeat the pre-hibernation health checks,
then offer the tortoise a drink as soon as it is fully
awake. Provided the temperature is correct, this should
only take a matter of an hour or two.
Many people experience problems in getting tortoises to
drink - in fact almost all tortoises will drink provided
water is offered in a suitable manner. We recommend
placing the entire tortoise in a sink, bath tub, or
large container suitable to the size of the tortoise,
such as a cat litter pan filled with about l" of very
slightly warm water - less in the case of very small
tortoises, a little more for giant specimens. Simply
offering a small dish of water to the tortoise is not
likely to stimulate a good drinking response, but
actually placing it in water is usually successful.
The importance of getting the tortoise to drink cannot
be overstated. Indeed, this is essential as during
hibernation the kidneys in particular accumulate large
quantities of dangerous toxins. These must be 'flushed
out' as quickly as possible, or the tortoise may begin
to suffer from poisoning. It will certainly feel ill and
remain disinclined to eat.
Drinking is, at this stage, far more important than
feeding. Both dehydration and the presence in the body
of toxins dictate that every effort must be made to
encourage drinking first, feeding later.
The tortoise must also be kept warm as described
previously- it is absolutely vital that such
temperatures are maintained in order to speed up
activation of the tortoise's digestive system. As the
tortoise awakes certain biological changes take place;
one of the most important of these is the release into
the bloodstream of a chemical called glycogen, which has
been stored in the liver. This provides extra energy to
give the tortoise an initial 'boost'. Feeding must take
place before this is exhausted, or the animal will begin
to decline. The glycogen level can be artificially
boosted by providing water with glucose in solution
daily - about 2 teaspoons per 250 ml dilution, at about
l0-20 ml per day for an average sized animal. The use of
Pedialyte™ is also successful. Do not continue this
therapy indefinitely, or dangerously high blood-sugar
levels may be attained.

All tortoises should very definitely feed within ONE
WEEK of emerging from hibernation. If they do not there
is either;

A health problem, or

A husbandry problem.

If your tortoise is not feeding by itself within one
week of waking up, take the steps described in the next
chapter, and if this does not produce results within a
further three days, do not delay any longer - consult a
veterinary surgeon who has particular experience of
reptile husbandry, physiology and treatment. Seek the
underlying cause of the problem, and do not be satisfied
with non-specific 'vitamin injection' therapy. There is
always a logical and very good reason for a tortoise
persistently refusing to eat, and generalized vitamin
deficiencies are highly unlikely to be responsible. Good
diagnostic techniques, combined with an understanding of
reptile metabolism and function, will invariably produce
a satisfactory answer. Out of literally thousands of
tortoises we have seen over the years with feeding
problems, from ancient Galapagos giants to tiny newly
hatched babies, we have never yet seen one suffering
from anything which a general non-specific 'vitamin
injection' would correct. It is highly unlikely, to say
the least, that yours is the exception. Whatever you do,
please do not delay. A tortoise which refuses to feed
after a week or more of correct temperatures has a
problem. It is your responsibility to find out what the
problem is and to deal with it effectively.

RELUCTANT EATERS

In all probability, if your tortoise persistently
refuses to eat it is seriously ill. You need expert help
- without delay. As a general guide the problem is most
often caused by one of the following conditions. The
ability of owners to recognize or eliminate these
possibilities is all part of good husbandry, so you
should very definitely familiarize yourself with the
basic symptoms of these common health problems. All can
result in a refusal to feed.

SIGHT DAMAGE

Usually due to freezing during hibernation. Symptoms:
lack of response to visual stimuli, refusal to feed,
reluctance to walk, collision with objects when walking,
moving round in circles.
Treatment: force feeding or hand-feeding, time and
careful nursing. Once again however, dehydration is the
main danger. We use Hartmann's solution Also known as
Lactated Ringer's Solution (an I.V. drip compound sodium
lactate) given orally at 5% of total bodyweight daily in
cases of severe dehydration, reducing as urination
begins and the electrolyte balance is restored. Other
products, such as Pedialyte™ can be successfully used.
High doses of vitamin-A have definitely been shown to
assist, particularly in cases of retinal damage and (to
a lesser extent) in cases of cataracts on the lenses.
Most cases in our experience make a good recovery
eventually, but in severe cases this can take several
years. Identifying this requires expert diagnosis by
vet. Blind or sight damaged tortoises should not be
routinely destroyed. The Tortoise Trust Sanctuary can
accept such animals for long term residency. We also
have a separate caresheet on how to deal with such
tortoises.

SWOLLEN EYES

Can result from local infections or general debility. In
box turtles the cause is generally one of husbandry,
especially a lack of access to wading water and
insufficient air humidity. However, veterinary diagnosis
is essential in all cases. In VERY rare cases swollen
eyes can also be an indication of acute Vitamin-A
deficiency, especially in hatchling tortoises.

EAR ABSCESSES

Symptoms: swelling in area of ear flap, refusal to feed.
Treatment: surgical removal by veterinary surgeon. If
left untreated, not only is much suffering caused, but
eventually fatality will result as the infection
spreads. The same comments apply to abscesses in other
locations; the legs are particularly vulnerable. Check
legs (and especially the joints) for signs of unusual
swelling or stiffness regularly. Reptile abscesses are
usually hard, caseous lumps and contain cheesy yellowish
pus and other infected matter. They do not respond
purely to systemic therapy, surgical excision is
essential in addition. We see many abscesses, the most
frequent sites are the ears, the legs, the inside of the
mouth and the nares (the nose). Tumours are very rare in
tortoises, so if you encounter a "growth" you can almost
guarantee it is an abscess or cyst. This condition is
extremely common in American box turtles.

PNEUMONIA

May be mistaken for an ordinary cold. Rapidly fatal
unless treated properly. Symptoms: mucous and saliva in
plentiful evidence, sometimes foaming and frothing at
mouth. Obvious difficulty breathing in acute cases. The
tortoise holds its head high, at an unusual angle whiles
gaping and gasping for breath. This phase is followed by
collapse, unconsciousness, and eventual death. From
first symptoms to death in acute cases can be as little
as 4 hours, hence, at first sign of breathing difficulty
obtain expert help without delay. Do not deliver
antibiotics to tortoises orally:- it is impossible to
gauge the resultant blood serum level, and it will also
have catastrophic effects upon the digestive system.
Treatment: Always treat parenterally (by injection) or
topically (by direct application) as appropriate.
Meanwhile keep the tortoise warm and fully hydrated (by
stomach tube if it refuses to drink for itself).
Prevention is obviously better than cure, so at first
sign of 'cold-like' symptoms place under close
observation. Pneumonia is unfortunately common in all
debilitated tortoises, box turtles, and terrapins. The
symptoms of a potential pneumonia should never be
ignored - seek expert veterinary help at once if you
suspect that it may be developing.

STOMATITIS

Another very serious and unpleasant disease, usually of
bacterial origin (although viral forms are known), and
one which is invariably fatal without prompt and
appropriate treatment. Sometimes called 'mouth-canker'
or 'mouth rot'. Symptoms: excess saliva production,
refusal to eat, upon opening the mouth a sponge or
cheese-like yellowish deposit may be visible. In
addition, gums and tongue may have a deep red or purple
tinge, possibly speckled with blood. This disease should
be regarded as highly contagious to other tortoises.
Isolate suspected cases immediately, and enforce strict
hygiene precautions. Treatment: as much infected matter
as possible should be removed gently using cotton swabs
dipped in chlorhexidine solution. This should be
repeated twice daily. Also the mouth can be gently
rinsed with dilute 'BETADINE' solution. WARNING: some
cases of stomatitis are unusually resistant to specific
antibiotics. In such cases a laboratory analysis and
sensitivity assay is essential. The oral cephalosporins
have proved highly effective in some otherwise resistant
cases. Tortoises with stomatitis will often need to
drink each day, and may also require stomach tube
feeding. Reptiles suffering from stomatitis are at
considerable risk of secondary infections, principally
pneumonia, and require expert handling under conditions
of exceptional hygiene.

INJURY

In connection with hibernation, often the result of
attack by rats or similar predators (e,g,racoons). This
is entirely preventable, so take adequate precautions
(surround boxes with wire mesh and check regularly). If
the worst does happen clean with 50% dilute 'BETADINE'
or Chlorhexidine solution, and seek veterinary advice at
once. Treatment: essentially same as for any wound. If
rats are the culprits then preventative antibiotic
therapy will be in order. The same treatment is followed
for minor cases of shell damage but be careful not to
confuse a minor injury with the first symptoms of
something more serious such as necrotic dermatitis, for
example. Really major traumatic injuries require expert
treatment - however, tortoises are incredibly resilient
creatures, and with the proper care can often recover
from what at first sight appear quite horrendous
injuries - even when confronted by a tortoise with a leg
torn off, for example, it is important not to panic.
With prompt expert treatment such animals can not only
survive but go on to lead a normal life and even produce
hatchlings. Keep all sick tortoises or tortoises with
wounds indoors as maggots can appear with frightening
rapidity, especially in the eyes, or around the nose. If
discovered in this condition, remove the
maggots and wash well immediately with a mild antiseptic
solution.

'Runny Nose Syndrome' appears to have several causes.
Symptoms; may refuse to eat. Treatment: Place all
infected animals in strict quarantine, as certain forms
of the disease are highly infectious. Keep animal warm,
but maintain good air circulation. MANY CASES ARE DUE TO
ENVIRONMENTAL CAUSES - INDOOR ENVIRONMENTS AND VIVARIUMS
ARE OFTEN IMPLICATED. In persistent cases we have found
that combining topical therapy with a broad spectrum
injected antibiotic produces consistently good results.
The organisms responsible are almost always
Gram-negative pathogens such as pseudomonas, klebsiella
or citrobacter. Mycoplasma organisms are also often
involved.

JAUNDICE

Often the result of either dehydration or fatty
degeneration of the liver due to incorrect diet.
Symptoms: tortoise reluctant to feed, inclined to hide
in corners or bury itself. Mouth inspection may (but not
always) reveal a yellowish tinge to mucous membrane and
tongue. Undigested food matter may also be passed.
Treatment: veterinary diagnosis essential. Keep well
hydrated using plenty of water with just a pinch of
glucose. Serious cases will require medication.

NECROTIC DERMATITIS

Also known as 'shell rot'. An unpleasant disease of
bacterial origin - any one of several specific organisms
may be responsible. Symptoms: Fluid, sometimes bloody,
'leaking' from shell. Fluid can often be seen underneath
the plates, which may also develop a reddish tinge.
Treatment: depends upon what bacteria involved, and how
advanced. However, exceptional hygiene is a must. Daily
scrubs with undiluted 'BETADINE', and a topical
antibiotic applied daily. Surgery may also be required.
A disease which requires expert diagnosis and treatment
if the animal is to survive. Untreated cases invariably
prove fatal.

ANEMIA

Common in debilitated animals. Symptoms: pale mucous
membranes, weak and listless. Treatment: depends on
cause. It should be stressed that an accurate veterinary
diagnosis of the cause is vital - parasite infestations
are one likely factor as are acute renal or hepatic
problems.

CLOACITIS

Symptoms: manifests as a smelly, unpleasant leak or
discharge from the tail. Treatment: irrigation of cloaca
with 'BETADINE' solution via catheter. Veterinary
diagnosis essential, as one possible contributory factor
is flagellate infection - this will require special
treatment - see under 'PARASITES'.

DIARRHEA

Frequently associated with parasite infestation. A
sample can be examined by your veterinary surgeon for
traces of flagellate cysts or worm ova.

PARASITES

Tortoises are particularly prone to two types of worm,
long, greyish-looking creatures called ASCARIDS, and a
smaller, very thin whitish type called OXYURIDS. Both
respond to treatment with a Fenbendazole-type wormer. ON
NO ACCOUNT ADMINISTER ORDINARY CAT OR DOG WORMING
POWDERS OR TABLETS TO TORTOISES!!!! These may include
chemicals which are toxic to reptiles.
Flagellate protozoan organisms are another potential
parasite. Flagellate infection often manifests as
diarrhoea, sometimes tinged with blood and mucous. It
can be serious, and expert veterinary advice should be
sought. The recommended course of treatment often
involves the use of metronidazole (e.g. 'FLAGYL').
Keeping tortoises too warm overnight appears to
encourage protozoan proliferation. The main problem is
likely to be in re-establishing normal digestion
following a very severe flagellate attack. Hexamitiasis
is a highly pathogenic infection of the urinary and
renal system, symptoms include thickened urine which
smells strongly of ammonia. This is invariably very
serious, but can be treated with metronidazole. Never
ignore such a symptom, or irreparable renal damage or
death may occur.

SEPTICAEMIA

Generalized septicemia can occur as a secondary result
of any bacterial infection, but is particularly common
in connection with necrotic dermatitis and abscesses.
Symptoms: weakness, vomiting, collapse, unconsciousness,
sometimes delirium. Treatment: antibiotic required
urgently.

Antibiotics

Avoid extended use of antibiotics where possible. Some
antibiotics, such as Lincomycin or Oxytetracycline, or
even Baytril can cause considerable digestive upset.
Lincomycin is not especially useful, but there are times
when oxytetracycline can be extremely valuable, so apart
from minimizing the side effects by proper dosing and
administration, few alternative options may exist. Some
smaller species such as T. kleinmanni can react very
badly to some antibiotics such as Ampicillin and
Oxytetracycline as can hatchlings. In such cases,
antibiotics must be used with extreme caution, and under
conditions of intensive care where any subsequent
dehydration or digestive flora 'scour' can be
immediately controlled. Many bacterial organisms are
found in tortoises, one of the most difficult of which
to eliminate is Pseudomonas and similar Gram-negative
organisms (e.g Citrobacter and Klebsiella). It is
important to identify these where present, and to ensure
by laboratory tests that they are sensitive to the
antibiotic employed. Pseudomonas is found extensively in
necrotic stomatitis. Where a definite non-response is
noted, resistance may be suspected, so change the
antibiotic.

This is not a complete list of tortoise diseases, nor a
recommendation for "do it yourself" therapy as far as
treatment is concerned. It is merely a guide to what CAN
happen, and what to expect if it does. The main keys to
successful treatment of sick tortoises are prompt
recognition, and accurate diagnosis followed by
appropriate medication. Never rely upon guess-work and
always seek the underlying cause of any problem.
Examinations should be thorough and complete, and where
necessary laboratory diagnostic tests should be
employed. Always, without exception, consult a qualified
veterinarian and never attempt self-treatment or use
antibiotics or other prescription medicines without
veterinary supervision. Do not be afraid to seek out a
veterinarian with special knowledge and experience of
reptile treatment.

CAPTIVE BREEDING PROBLEMS

Most of the hatchlings we see have been seriously
damaged by incorrect diets provided by insufficiently
expert owners. "Lumpy" shells and otherwise distorted
carapaces are 100% avoidable if the correct steps are
taken without delay. Hatchlings are very small and very
sensitive. They cannot tolerate mishandling. The diet
and environment must be exactly right if they are to
survive and develop normally. Do not try to raise
hatchlings by guesswork or by relying on outdated myths.
Obtain expert advice at the earliest possible
opportunity. The Tortoise Trust has excellent material
available on all aspects of captive breeding and raising
all kinds of tortoises and turtles.

FORCE FEEDING

With all reptiles there are times when it may become
necessary to resort to either force or hand feeding;
particularly so in the case of anorexia, sight damage or
where a tortoise for some other reason is unable to feed
itself. Fortunately tortoises do not find this as
distressing as mammals, and from the owner's point of
view the procedure is both safe and relatively simple.
We classify force-feeding in three basic stages;
hand-feeding, which is really no more than an
encouragement to feed normally; syringe feeding, which
is less time-consuming and where alternative foods can
be employed; and finally, stomach-tube feeding, where
semi-liquid food matter is introduced directly into the
digestive system by means of a tube passed down the
animal's throat.

HAND FEEDING

Ideal in animals which are not in a serious condition,
and where encouragement to take food into the mouth is
all that is required. It is frequently highly successful
with sight-damaged animals. Suitable foods: sliced
apple, pears, cucumber and melon, lightly dusted
withRep-Cal and Herptivite. Technique: simply open
tortoises mouth, and place food within. To open a
tortoise's mouth efficiently and safely, simply grasp
the animal firmly behind the ears and jaw with the thumb
and second finger of one hand, and firmly force down the
lower jaw with the thumb and first finger of the other
hand.

SYRINGE FEEDING

Obtain a 5 ml or l0 ml syringe from your veterinarian.
Alternatively suitable syringes are often sold in pet
stores as baby bird feeders. This method can be used in
conjunction with the hand-feeding (above). Suitable
foods: liquidized fruits - prepared baby foods are
ideal. To these can be added 'VIONATE' or other vitamin
supplements. Technique: open tortoise's mouth manually
(as above), and simply syringe small quantities of food
onto the tongue to be swallowed naturally.

STOMACH-TUBE FEEDING

This sounds more drastic and difficult than it actually
is. However, care must be taken a) not to cause physical
damage, and b) not to spread infection. To avoid the
former proceed slowly and gently, to avoid the second
sterilize all implements thoroughly in 'MILTON' or
Chlorhexidine. The method is invaluable with very
debilitated or sick tortoises who are unable to swallow,
or who need food by the quickest possible route. Special
diets can be given using this method, and the precise
quantity of food taken can be carefully controlled. It
is also possible to deliver vitamins, drugs or other
substances in exact quantities where required. Suitable
foods: liquids such as plain water, water containing
vitamin powders in dilution. Semi-solid foods such as
plain fruit baby foods, again with added vitamins as
required. We are opposed to the use of (lactose)
milk-based high protein food preparations, even in
severe cases of undernourishment. We have often noted
serious side-effects where these are employed, possibly
due to lactose intolerance in some animals, and in other
cases we suspect that the high protein input is causing
liver and kidney damage. We have, in any case,
rehabilitated so many extremely underweight and
undernourished tortoises without such materials that we
can honestly see no need for them. Our general policy
with ALL feeding is LOW protein, HIGH vitamin and
mineral content, LOW fat and HIGH fiber. This most
closely approximates the diet of a wild tortoise, and we
are becoming increasingly convinced that excessive force
feeding on unnatural substances is one reason why so
many people experience high rates of mortality in such
cases whereas our own experience is that such tortoises
usually make a very rapid recovery. Technique: it is
best if you see this actually demonstrated before
attempting to apply it (the Tortoise Trust has some
videos which show this procedure). For the record,
however, the technique is as follows: Obtain a 5 ml or
l0 ml syringe, also a dog catheter. Cut to size and fix
to end of syringe (length of tube = just over half the
length of tortoise). Lubricate lightly with vegetable
oil. Place tortoise in an almost vertical position,
extend neck and head fully in a straight line. Gently
and slowly pass tube down throat, carefully avoiding the
trachea, which is located just behind the tongue. Gently
and slowly empty the contents of the syringe into the
tortoise. The amount of food which should be introduced
in this fashion has been the subject of some confusion.
Our general recommendations are as follows. These
figures have been extracted from our case records based
upon several hundred animals and we believe them to be
highly accurate. Sometimes figures are quoted which are
many times in excess of these, but we believe that such
over-feeding can prove extremelyhazardous, especially to
a sick or relatively inactive animal.

VERY SMALL TORTOISES Between 75-l20 mm long - 2 ml
twice per day semi-solid food.

SMALL TORTOISES Between l50-l80 mm long - 3-4 ml
twice per day semi-solid food.

Very large tortoises will require more. Monitor weight
daily. Alternatively, 10 ml per Kg total bodyweight
maximum per 24 hours plus fluids. Remember, these are
approximate guidelines only. If the tortoise has been
starved for a long time prior to beginning tube feeding
reduce the quantity initially. Liquids should be
provided in addition, preferably by inducing the
tortoise to drink voluntarily. In cases of severe
dehydration, begin hydrating with fluid at a rate of
4-5% of total bodyweight daily. If edema (puffiness, or
swelling) is noted, and urination is not present, reduce
level and seek expert advice; a diuretic may be
necessary, as kidney function may be impaired. The most
common cause of renal distress is due to solid deposits
of uric acid literally blocking the kidneys; a
combination of diuretic and oral Hartmann's solution is
the most effective therapy, assisted by daily lukewarm
baths and physiotherapy of the back legs.