Epifanes Gloss Clear Varnish

Epifanes clear marine spar varnish is renowned for its gloss finish and offers superior protection in all climates. Formulated with tung oil, phenolic and alkyd resins and U.V. filters for superior protection. It is an exceptional finish for wood or over traditional marine varnish clear urethane and clear epoxy resins systems.

Go for Two! Our new JD Epifanes Clear Gloss Kit (CVKIT) includes two 1000ml cans of varnish, 2 foam brushes, 2 paint strainers, 2 stir sticks, and 2 plastic paint pails. This is a great value. You save on the varnish and receive brushes, strainers, and pails for free!

Temperatures should be between 50 degrees F and 85 degrees F for application,
with air humidity below 85 percent. Avoid varnishing in too much sun or wind,
a rapid loss of solvents will occur under these conditions and will decrease the flowing ability.
Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish is compatible with most other types of one-component alkyd or urethane based varnishes and over two-component varnishes.

2015-03-17JAMES STEAD:Sorry, I have no experience in varnishing over paint. (Why would you do this?)
J. Stead

2015-03-22LINDA SNELLING:It will definitely yellow. Though I don't understand why one would seek to do this, I have accidentally gotten some varnish on my white hull and it does, in fact, yellow.

2015-02-18HUGH MATTOX asked:I want to purchase one quart of epifanes spar varnish for a front door that receives direct sunlight five hours per day. which one should I buy?

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2015-02-18Mike C:I have used the Epifanes Clear Gloss on my front door Tucson AZ> Southern exposure. Refinished the door in 2011 with five coats the door looks perfect. There is a screen door in front of it but it still looks like the day I finished it.

2015-02-19MICHAEL BOYLE:No idea depends on your taste in appearance

2015-02-19JAMES IRVING:It all depends on the effect you want. For an exterior door I would prefer a satin or low gloss. I work primarily on wood boats and prefer high gloss. A high gloss requires much more emphasis on prep & preventing dust etc from contaminating the surface.

2015-03-05DWAIN L ECKBERG:I built our home ten years ago. It has three fir garage doors that are in direct sunlight for most of the day (in Virginia, where the sun is hot). I applied polyurethane to these doors, but had to reapply the material every year.
In 2011, I sanded the doors down to the bare wood, and successively applied coats of Epiphanes High Gloss Clear Varnish, diluted with high-grade turpentine. (The first coat was 1/4 Epiphanes to 3/4 turpentine, and the last was full strength Epiphanes. The product has worked well, and the doors are beautiful. Each year, I touch up the bottom of the doors, a task that takes perhaps one half hour.
I hope that this is helpful.
Dwain Eckberg

2015-01-25A shopper asked:what happens if you do not sand between coats? we have a 1987 that we have stained and varnished first coat, and sanded my husband does not want me to sand before third coat

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2015-01-25GEORGE MEADE:fine if you don't wait too long before next coat. Geo

2015-01-26Carolyn Bryant:It really depends your need for a super smooth surface. Normally, it is really only necessary to sand after the first coat. From there, each additional coat should level on its own. However, dust can attach during the drying process. These defects can become more prominent with each subsequent coat. If this is not bothering you... no need to re-sand.

2015-01-28NORM BOGARDE:Your question is not about Epifanes, but about varnishing techniques in general . . . To sand or not to sand . . . that is the question. Some finish products (the soft varnishes) recommend that you not sand between coats. Epifanes is a hard varnish that will produce that mirror-like finish and sanding between all coats will produce that ultimate end. IN any varnish job, DUST and debris is your enemy. Dust that settles on your wet varnish produces little "nibs" (that's what I call them)that must be removed. Debris in the varnish (filter it) and debris in your brushes (I use foam brushes)are also a problem . . . use 220 or finer paper and if the "1987" is a boat, don't stop at three coats!

2015-02-04HOWARD BOUCHIE:People spend a lot of time sanding off what they just put on. I'd say sand if you have any imperfections otherwise re coat with in 24 hours and build up the varnish. Final sand before last coat. Works well for me.

2015-01-17A shopper asked:what did you use for thinner?

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2015-01-17CHRISTOPHER HIRNEISEN:I don't usually use thinner but when I do it would be the Epifanes thinner.

2015-01-17ANDREW PARKER:I used mineral spirits and diluted it 50%, i do this wether I am spraying or brushing. This may not be the best way to do it but I seem to get go results.

2015-01-18MARK MORGEN:Mineral spirits. Worked fine

2015-01-26HUGH GLOVER:The propriety one recommended by the varnish maker.

2015-01-03PETER DE LEO asked:Can this varnish be used over brand name stains such as Rust Oleum, Minwax etcâ?¦â?¦..?

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2015-01-03ANDY GOGATES:Not sure it can. I use it on the teak trim. I started with clean bare wood. Check the manufacturer.

2015-01-04Ed Benedit:Well I used this varnish on my front door. I ended up sanding down the door refinishing it epoxy coating it then 6 coats of this varnish. You will need to sand off the coats of old varnish on the door then apply this.
I would recommend just redoing the whole door.
Mine looks beautiful and should last 20 years.
Ed

2015-01-04RICHARD REGENSBURG:I've used it over a minwax stain and it worked great.

2015-01-04JACK BARTLETT:I've only used it over either bare wood ( teak, mahogany ) or other marine spar varnishes with no problem . I should think it would be as satisfactory over stain as other varnishes though .

2014-12-23A shopper asked:what product do you recommend for cleaning the varnish brushes, they are expensive and I am having a hard time getting them really clean so that I can use them again?

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2014-12-23Rick White:I recommend first cleaning with mineral spirits, keep changing fluid until it is clear. Then clean with a Brush Cleaner our part number SCL-050804 again a couple of fluid changes until it's clear. Note: keep the used mineral spirits in a separate container. Let settle and you can reuse it again. Same for the brush cleaner.

2014-12-23AUSTIN CLARK:Lacquer thinner

2014-12-23PATRICK HELLING:Mineral spirits or paint thinner will remove wet varnish. I wash with warm water and soap (dawn dish soap). I suspend brushes in #2 diesel or fuel oil for storage. Wash with mineral spirits prior to use.

2014-12-23JAMES IRVING:I have found that I get much better results by using high quality foam brushes with Epifanes. They are one time use and do not leave brush streaks, do not require cleaning and do not leave residue.
The only time I uses bristle brushes is with paint where I use the roller tip method.
It takes a lots of paint thinner to clean a brush - I save all the old used paint thinner and store it and over time most of the solids sink out then I use that thinner for the initial cleaning.

2014-12-25ROGER KOPP:immediately after you're done varnishing, slosh the brush in ordinary paint thinner making sure the thinner level goes up to the metal bristle cover. Then, if it's an older brush or has had a lot or varnish in it,repeat in a fresh container of thinner. Then, if you want to be really thorough,repeat in container of hot water and a good detergent. Make sure you rinse the brush well with hot water and then air dry.Most of my brushes are 10 to20 years old and work just fine .

2014-12-14A shopper asked:what is the suare foot coverage of a 1000ml can ?

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2014-12-15Rick White:About 90 to 100 sq ft per coat.

2014-12-17JAMES STEAD:Sorry, I don't have an answer. Suggest you contact Epifanes.
It is the best varnish I have ever used. Suggest you use Epifane thinner; I don't know why it should work better than brand X, but it seems to.

2014-12-06REEDS SERVICE CENTER asked:I am painting a wood bathroom vanity and would like to put a protective coat on it to prevent water damage from everyday use . What woul you recommend for a finish coat over annie Sloan chalk paint?

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2014-12-06HUGH GLOVER:I am not familiar with the chalk paint product you mention. Several coats of Epifanes will be nesessary for water resiliance, if it is compatable to your chalk paint, and it's saturating effect, gloss, and amber color may or may not be to you liking. Hugh

2014-12-06WILLIAM WUHRMAN:Annie Sloan recommends a soft wax to protect the chalk paint. I don't have any first-hand experience with coatings over chalk paint, although I do over milk paint. Polyacrylic is typically used over milk paint, but to my mind it ruins the charm of a flat finish and turns it glossy and plastic-y.
I've read of some people trying polyacrylic over chalk paint, and they've reported that it cracks the milk paint finish, which is probably why Annie Sloan recommends wax. Likewise, I imagine polyurethane would have the same problem - in addition to yellowing the finish a bit.
I would recommend trying a sample first before committing your vanity to a particular finish.

2014-12-08MICHAEL BOYLE:The epifanes clear varnish is not water clear so it would add a yellowish tint. Also, The varnish is oil based and probably should not be used on a water based paint. The best source for a recommendation would be the Annie's maker

2014-08-17C REID asked:using on an interior mahogany door do I need to use the full 5 coats before I do the matte product on top? Will be using the 5 coats on the exterior but do I need that many on the interior side of the door since it will not be exposed to the elements?

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2014-08-17THOMAS STEARNS:I've used Epifanes Gloss (with Epifanes reducer) on several small boats and it is very good, tough, long-lasting and beautiful. I don't see why you'd need to apply more than three or so coats on an interior surface, but keep in mind that the big bugaboo for varnish life is sunshine; UV exposure.
On an interior surface my guess is you only need to apply enough coats to achieve the degree of smoothness and gloss you want. 150 grit is probably fine enough and it will not clog as badly as finer grits so you will be able to sand sooner but Epifanes is a high quality, long life varnish and you should expect it to take at least a day and likely two days to get hard enough for easy sanding. Sand it thoroughly with a hard flat block--until when you clear off the dust you see a matte surface everywhere. Don't forget to reduce the varnish appropriately with the Epifanes reducer. Don't use a general purpose thinner; the Epifanes reducer is a blend of solvents which gives the correct flow/drying behaviour for good results.

2014-08-17RUSS LEPISTO:I would rather put one coat of lacquer on the inside for a sanding sealer and then a couple coats of a polyurethane varnish for the inside....the lacquer will bring out the beauty of the wood more than just plain varnish. Another thing is hang the door between saw horses with a screw in the center of the top and bottom of the door....this enables you to do all the work horizontally and enables you to turn the door to take care of the runs ...good luck

2014-08-17JOHN NOTCH:It really is up to you and how well the base coats of clear have filled in the pores and grain of the mahogany. I've re-varnished the interior of my boat and only applied two coats of the clear and then one coat of the rubbed effect. This looks fine although I only lightly sanded the original finish so I wasn't dealing with new, fresh teak.

2014-08-18GUY JOHNSON:No, but more coats always looks better.
Stop when it looks good to you.

2014-08-19KEITH NEAL:no I would say 2 or 3 would be sufficient

2014-08-20DAVID KELL:In order for the door to look the same inside and out you should apply the same amounts of coats I used this product 6 years ago on mahogany doors and they still look beautiful

2014-08-04C REID asked:is this meant for interior or exterior?

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2014-08-04WALLACE HEPKEMA:BOTH, EXCELLENT FOR EXTERIOR BECAUSE OF HIGH UV BLOCKERS.

2014-08-05MARK KURZ:It is a very good exterior varnish. It would not hurt one bit to use it indoors.

I hate varinishing. That is why I use Epifanes. This product will last for years outside and virtually forever indoors. Varnishing is never easy. But when you have to do it, use...Read complete review

I hate varinishing. That is why I use Epifanes. This product will last for years outside and virtually forever indoors. Varnishing is never easy. But when you have to do it, use the best product available. Surface prep remains a must and every hour you spend in preparation will save you hours during the process. I recommend at least three coats for a deep, rich shine. In fact, the doors pictured below have three coats. These doors were oiled years ago and a couple had been contaminated with silicone. This is normally disaterous, but after three coats, the fisheyes were gone, the grain filled in and the surface is nearly dead flat even though I did not use any grain sealer. The gloss is outstanding! Prepare the surface, apply one coat of thinned varnish. It does not thin well with mineral spirits. Epifanes thinner works best. Then sand between coats, work the varnish in well, tip it once and let dry. Runs can be removed with a sharp chisel or scraper. The doors pictured required about 4 ouunces per door per coat, but I know I will never need to refinish them again.

VS

Most Liked Negative Review

Not for coating dacron

In all fairness I'm using this product to waterproof a heat shrink dacron rowing skiff. I'm finding it runs like crazy, not matter how rhink you brush it out. But it leaves a...Read complete review

In all fairness I'm using this product to waterproof a heat shrink dacron rowing skiff. I'm finding it runs like crazy, not matter how rhink you brush it out. But it leaves a very good, hard finish when it finally dries.

The thinning recommendations for this product were spot on. I lightly sanded between coats using only a green Scotch pad. End result was flawless and the matte finish I was trying to achieve came effortlessly.

Using this varnish on my 1966 Century Arabian. Seems to have good self-leveling and easy to apply when using fresh varnish. Gets a little thick after you've opened the container a few times, so you may need to thin it if you are using small amounts at a time. Great looking finished product.

We've been doing our own brightwork for years, the Center for Wooden Boats here in Seattle taught us with this product for a reason - it's awesome and leaves a beautiful finish. We can certainly buy it locally but find great prices at JD including good packages that suit our needs.

About three years ago I used Epifanes to seal a hand-carved wooden bench we bought at the Hispanic Arts Pavillion at the New Mexico State Fair. Didn't want to risk it drying out, cracking and turning gray as wood does so easily in Albuquerque, with the high altitude sun, temperature extremes and very low humidity. It's still perfect, and still looks exactly as it did right after I put on the final coat. I'm getting some to do the front door.

I'm not an expert by any means, but I used this product to refinish the inside of a cedar strip outboard runabout and it turned out great. Followed the instructions for application and it covered great. After 4 years it is still holding up well too.