If I ever ran ISIS again, then I'd use these cranks. They look pretty good in my opinion and the weight is pretty encouraging!

Why do people still like Moments? I disliked them strongly from day one... they need serious revision or just a total scrap-job and entirely new cranks released.

Weight-saving wise, you can shave hundreds, yes hundreds, of grams by doing small things for next-to-nothing. I'd like to see someone try it out with their uni! (I don't have one anymore, sadly!)

-Replace heavy plastic rimtape with lighter tape like stuck-together electrical insulation tape or cricket bat protection tape.
-Ride with lighter tubes. A fat trials tube can be over 100g heavier than some of the light tubes like Maxxis Ultralight! *(though this will alter how a tyre bounces! for better or worse depending on your personal pref.)
-Get rid of that big double clamp, you don't need it, because single clamps are strong enough.
-Aluminium bolts (not titanium bolts, which are heavier and more expensive and generally of a crap quality if they aren't from a reputed manufacturer)
-Cut down seatpost
-Cutting every other knobble on the sides of your tyre (this actually helps bounce and increases grip)

And then there's 32h drivetrain...

But yeah, with all the above methods combined I am certain you can save around 300g alone! It'd cost you about 15 dollars max!

If I ever ran ISIS again, then I'd use these cranks. They look pretty good in my opinion and the weight is pretty encouraging!

Why do people still like Moments? I disliked them strongly from day one... they need serious revision or just a total scrap-job and entirely new cranks released.

Weight-saving wise, you can shave hundreds, yes hundreds, of grams by doing small things for next-to-nothing. I'd like to see someone try it out with their uni! (I don't have one anymore, sadly!)

-Replace heavy plastic rimtape with lighter tape like stuck-together electrical insulation tape or cricket bat protection tape.
-Ride with lighter tubes. A fat trials tube can be over 100g heavier than some of the light tubes like Maxxis Ultralight! *(though this will alter how a tyre bounces! for better or worse depending on your personal pref.)
-Get rid of that big double clamp, you don't need it, because single clamps are strong enough.
-Aluminium bolts (not titanium bolts, which are heavier and more expensive and generally of a crap quality if they aren't from a reputed manufacturer)
-Cut down seatpost
-Cutting every other knobble on the sides of your tyre (this actually helps bounce and increases grip)

And then there's 32h drivetrain...

But yeah, with all the above methods combined I am certain you can save around 300g alone! It'd cost you about 15 dollars max!

I agree that you can lose lots of wieght easily for next to nothing money wise. But personaly I don't get why you dislike moments sooo much, sure they are heavy but they are relaible and great quality.

I got myself a set of the Eiffel Tower cranks, as I wore out the thread on one of my Nimbus Venture 150mm cranks and had been considering getting shorter cranks for a while.
I was toying between the new Nimbus Venture 2 (150mm = 430g) or these which are 140mm and 325g...

My uni is a 24" with a duro tyre, and I use it mostly for riding around town and low-level trials (< 4ft stuff at time of writing), as well as muni once a week. I suspect most people will be buying Eiffel Tower cranks for trials on a 19"..

Impressions on Eiffel Tower cranks:

Finish is good, not amazing, but good.

They are light as feathers, mainly due to the drilled-out holes on the back which you can't see from the picture. This does make me worry about strength, but I'll just have to wait and see.

I didn't really notice the weight difference as I moved from the original Venture 150s which weigh 385g, and the wheelset is heavy as it is but I'd expect that if you ride a 19" with KH cranks and move to these you'd be pleasantly surprised.

They have (steel/cromo?) inserts for the pedal thread, which will presumably reduce the risk of wearing the threading compared to setting the threading directly in the aluminium. I wonder if these can be replaced to save on the price of a new pair of cranks when all you've done is worn out the thread on one of them...?

They do come really close to the (KH) frame, in fact my frame cup had damage from a scrape which made it touch the crank as it went past that spot, so I had to file it down a bit.

The main impact these have on my riding comes down to the change from 150s to 140s, so don't reflect on these specific cranks, but I think it'ss worth mentioning for people choosing crank length:
I was surprised to find that just a 10mm in crank length on a 24" wheel would make much of a difference, but it does: I feel I ride that little bit faster, and it taxes my legs a bit more (even though I moved the seat up a notch). Unfortunately I also lost a bit in terms of control e.g. when landing or decelerating, and also in grip. That's right, the shorter the cranks, the less leverage, the more you need grip on your shoes - I hadn't anticipated this to be the case, but I do notice it. Maybe if I get shoes with more grip I'll regain some of that control, or maybe I'll just get used to it, if neither of those work out I'll consider going back to 150s.

Like I said before, most people will be buying these for 19" trials, and the pedal leverage is higher in that case so 140mm would probably be a good length. All we need is for some trials riders to truly test them for strength and we'll know if its worth the pennies...