Portuguese Swordfish Kabobs

Swordfish is one of only three fish firm enough to keep its shape on a skewer; the others are tuna and monkfish, the poor man’s lobster, either of which can be substituted in this recipe. Espetadas (kabobs), bite-size pieces of meat or fish threaded onto sharpened sticks, are the fairground treat on the island of Madeira. They’re eaten with bread rolls (bolos do caco): yeast-raised buns the size of a dinner plate, traditionally cooked on a bakestone (caco) made of basalt, the rock of which the island is formed — though in modern times, rather less romantically, the caco is made of concrete.–Elisabeth Luard

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