Description

A hugely popular sport climbing spot, with over a hundred pitches of moderate 'plaisir' (3c-6b) climbing just on the giant granite dome, split by several ledges for easy mixing and matching. The Settore Est has another 40+ climbs, with the truly fun 5c's and some stunning, steep hardcore climbs. 50m ropes sufficient for almost all climbs.

Topo from an old SAC pdf, via chmoser.ch.

Getting There

Very easy access from Locarno, 15 min bus or short train ride to the town of Ponte Brolla, then easy walk up to the cliff. Approach to the Settore Est goes pst several magical grottos, the Sunday cave hang-outs for families in the area. Oh, and through some palm tree stands, too. I repeat, palm trees. In Switzerland.

Probably the most well-known route in the area, if not the entire region. It has a few tricky sequences, but for the most part it is the sheer length of the route that is taxing: 18 pitches, almost entirely at grades between 5c and 6b+. The lower section is comprised of moderate slab climbing, and barring any particular impediments can be climbed fairly quickly. The middle, transitioning section has the most difficult pitches (2x 6b+) with technical sequences, and the upper headwall demands s...[more]Browse More Classics in International