Imperial stouts vary widely in their fruit notes (usually not from using actual fruit but from the interaction between certain yeasts and malts), with some tasting like raisin, dates and/or plums, and others more like dark cherry. Bourbon County, with its 13.8% ABV, fell into the latter category.

My first flavor impression of Bourbon County was of chocolate-covered bourbon-filled cherries. Not a bad start. Subsequent sips brought forth easily discernible flavors of cocoa, whiskey, molasses, vanilla, caramel, oak and bit of smoke. The beer is aged in bourbon barrels.

While there was some roasted malt, there were minimal coffee notes, which really allowed the chocolate-caramel-vanilla-whiskey aspects to shine.

The jet-black body was slick and creamy, but not cloying. There were alcohol notes in the aroma and flavor, but not in an obnoxious way — just enough to let you know that you have an antidote to cold weather.

There was only one fault that kept this from being a five-star beer — its excessive sweetness. I’m someone who wishes more beers were less dry and had a touch more sweetness, but Bourbon County ranked up there with McEwan’s Scotch Ale from Scotland. The sugars made it a chore to get through.

This made Bourbon County very much a dessert beer and it probably wouldn’t hurt to have a cigar and/or some fine whiskey or brandy on hand to temper its sugars. After my first few sips, my solution was some single-malt scotch in between.

The strong flavors in the Bourbon County were able to navigate the whiskey breaks with no problem. But, bottom line, I wish the beer had just been a touch less sweet.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability by mail. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com. To read previous Beer Man columns, click here.