Dig In: Gonzo's BiggDogg Brewing in Kalamazoo is big on atmosphere and good food

KALAMAZOO, MI —By day, Gonzo's BiggDogg Brewing is bright and airy, a wide open space with windows on three sides of the dining area.

By night, Gonzo's BiggDogg Brewery is intimate, the night time filling in the windows and the headlights of the passing cars forming little trails of light.

And, although "Brewing" is part of the name and definitely the focus, Gonzo's owners Greg "Gonzo" Haner and Brian Hill have also crafted a pretty respectable restaurant.

Anyone driving by one of Kalamazoo's newest brewpubs has to be attracted to the throngs of people that can be spied in the establishment's expansive windows. It always looks like there's a party going on at Gonzo's — a party with some good eats.

Poutine is that uniquely Canadian dish that sounds alarming to anyone who pays attention to their arteries: French fries covered with meat, cheese and gravy. But, the stuff is addicting, especially Gonzo's version made with house-smoked pork. It's best right when it's put on the table and the French fries are still a crispy contrast to the tender pork, melting cheese and thick gravy.

(And if you like the house-smoked meats, you can find more on the nachos, various sandwiches and pizzas.)

The Drunken Crab Hushpuppies find a touch of sweetness from the crab, which is mixed in the beer-flavored cornmeal round. The Sriracha mayo has a touch of heat and is a perfect compliment to the hushpuppies.

The only misstep we experienced was the Spent Grain Pretzels with Beer Cheese ($6.95). The beer cheese made with Gonzo'Âs brew had a yummy tangy, but the pretzels made with the brewery's spent barley were served soggy. It's hard to imagine that's the way it'Âs meant to be served. It seemed like someone gave the pretzels a spritz with water to adhere the salt, and then never bothered to pop them back in the oven to dry. Or maybe there's a market for damp pretzels.

On the other hand, the spent grain pizza dough made for a delicious pie. The crust shines in the simple Margarita pizza, which is dressed with herb oil, fresh tomatoes, basil and Mozzarella.

The food begs for a glass of beer, and the Dogg Days Ale was a crisp and light accompaniment for the meal ($4 for 16 oz.). But for real beer fans, Gonzo's offers plenty of other options ranging from amber ales to stouts and porters — all brewed there. Beers are available in 5-ounce tasters, standard 16 ounces and 64-ounce growlers. Prices vary. For non-beer drinkers, Gonzo's also has house-brewed cream soda and root beer ($2.75).

Gonzo's BiggDogg: Come for the atmosphere, stay for the beer and food — and enjoy it all.