My kind of town

Travel writer Rodney Bolt first visited Bangkok in the early 1990s, and has returned to the city at every available opportunity since.

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Buddhist monks leave a Bangkok temple for their morning collection of alms

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Fireworks explode over Wat Arun temple in Bangkok

12:01AM BST 13 Sep 2005

Why Bangkok?

The city combines a vibrant metropolitan scene; the absolute apogee of south-east-Asian charm and good service; and some of the most delicious food on the planet. Add to that the odd outcrop of spectacular architecture, excellent shopping and a warm climate, and there seems little reason to go anywhere else.

What do you miss when you are away?

Service, which manages the near impossible task of maintaining the dignity of both parties while demonstrating an almost psychic insight to the recipient's needs; and the food - from street stalls to the swishest restaurants, I've seldom been disappointed.

The split-level Garden Wing rooms are the ones to go for. Reflections (81-85 Soi Ari, Phaholyotin 7, Samsennai, Phayathai; 270334; www.reflections-thai.com; from £27) reflects the zanier side of Bangkok - a delightful boutique hotel with each of its 28 rooms differently (some very differently) decorated by local and international artists and designers.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

Distil (63rd floor State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, Silom), an outdoor bar atop one of the highest buildings in the city, with bed-like sofas ranged around the edges and an elbow-height glass bar to lean on, with nothing beyond it - all beside an audaciously incongruous neo-baroque dome.

For vertiginous friends, the riverside terrace at the Oriental (see above) is hard to beat.

Where do you go for lunch?

Street food is fresh, cooked before your eyes, varied, astonishingly cheap - and can be superb.

Many stalls have tables or little stools, so you can sit and eat. My favourite chomping ground is around Saphan Taksin Skytrain station, and up Silom Road. The restaurant attached to the Reflections hotel (see above) is inexpensive, searingly authentic, and attracts an arty crowd.

Though aimed at tourists, the Manohra dinner cruise (477 0770; www.manohracruises.com), on a beautifully restored old rice barge, offers a cool and attractive way to spend the evening, and some classy cuisine.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

To the water. A river taxi or river-bus on the Chao Praya River takes you to some of the prime city sights, while giving you a gloriously motley view of Bangkok life.

Stop off at some of the less-frequented spots, such as the indoor flower market near Sapan Phat pier, or Thailand's oldest massage school, tucked around the back of the Wat Pho temple complex.

What would you tell them to avoid?

The Patpong district and sleazy nightlife. Also tailors that offer 24-hour, one-fitting miracles - well-tailored clothes require at least two or three fittings.

Public transport or taxi?

The Skytrain and the metro - both new and icily air-conditioned - whisk you to most places in the city you need to go with ease.

River transport is a cheap and enjoyable alternative for many of the main sights.

Taxis can get you to less accessible places - though opt for air-conditioning and make sure the meter is running (or establish a price beforehand), as you could end up stuck in Bangkok traffic.

Handbag or moneybelt?

Bangkok is a safe city, though be wary of pickpockets in crowded, tourist-rich environments.

What should I take home?

Thai silk and tableware made from coconut or mango wood. A good tailor (if you have a few days) can run you up a fine silk outfit, or a suit, for a fraction of the price you'd pay in the UK. I go to Majestic Tailors (110 Sukhumvit Road; 656 8227; www.majestictailors.com).

And if I've time for only one shop?

Don't miss out on the Suan Lum Night Market, which unlike its more touristy counterpart in Patpong is not overcrowded, and offers stylish clothes and objets by up-and-coming Thai designers as well as the usual night-market drolleries.