The rush for vineyard land will continue across British Columbia, as the traditional supplies run out and producers stuck in warm climates begin to look north to protect their futures from rising temperatures. Don Weixl/ / Vancouver Sun

Today we look ahead to the year in wine, and 2019 begins with a promised B.C. government inquiry into its highly questionable position as buyer, seller and regulator of the liquor market.

The challenge is that the market is so artificial and the field so tilted in the favour of government, it’s difficult to believe anything useful will come out of yet another investigation, independent or not, unless the outcome is a complete reset. Don’t hold your breath.

The constant manipulation of wine prices has beat down even the most seasoned of distributors, restaurateurs and consumers, leaving British Columbians to routinely pay far more for less than most of the rest of the country — or continent for that matter — when it comes to alcohol.

Interestingly, while we continue to debate how limiting and disruptive B.C. liquor regulations have become, it would appear the same flawed model is in place to sell and regulate cannabis.

Locally, the rush for vineyard land (and rising land prices) will continue across British Columbia, as the traditional supplies run out and producers stuck in warm climates begin to look north to protect their futures from rising temperatures. Areas never considered viable will be assessed in B.C., and on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands.

In concert with the land rush, the sale of small estate wineries operating with no exit plan will continue unabated as mid- and large size wineries look for opportunities to buy vineyard land already in production.

What I do like is a strong undercurrent of young people setting up shop with little or no money and lot of sweat equity across B.C.

Farming two or three hectares has become an excellent way to work your way into the business while affording yourself a massive education in winery ownership and the life of a grower vintner. It also offers the flexibility to do things a big winery could never hope to do.

As for what will we be drinking in 2019, the field is as wide open as it’s been at any time in the history of modern wine.

From English sparkling wine to Uruguayan Albariño, to Pais from Chile and Gamay from Canada it’s all in play but none will push Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon off the table. Rosé will continue to rise and while most of it will be Provence inspired, the clear majority will originate anywhere but Provence, and bear little resemblance to the unique French pink.

The top writers, thinkers and producers in wine will continue to preach freshness, lower alcohol, less manipulation, fewer inputs and/or the less-is-more mantra. There will be endless talk about organic vs. biodynamic vs. conventional vs. sustainable vs. “natural” wine growing but little will change at retail, where price and packaging rules.

Heavily extracted reds with ever rising levels of residual sugar and single name, originless names will continue to dominate a market that prefers its wine like its coffee — awash in caramel and cream flavours.

Two decades down the revolution road, Riesling is still awaiting its moment in the sun with mainstream consumers. To that list we add some 2019 candidates: Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Chenin Blanc, Languedoc anything, sparkling, and any number of indigenous grapes from Europe and beyond. Will any be able to break through onto mainstream retail shelves? Only time will tell.

Throw in a major market shift with cocktail and craft beer drinking millennials overtaking the baby boomers as the single largest market sector in North America and it should be an interesting year for everyone in the wine business.

The good news is the origins of wine have been traced back 8000 years to Georgia, so it’s likely to remain a beverage of considerable interest to earthlings for a little longer.

Related

Weekend wine picks

Mission Hill Reserve Meritage 2016, Okanagan Valley

$25.99 | 90/100

UPC: 776545975232

The first Reserve meritage at Mission Hill mixes a larger proportion of Cabernet Franc (35 per cent) with 32 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 31 per cent Merlot, and two per cent Petit Verdot grown on two estates: one in Osoyoos, and one in Oliver. The attraction here is the elegance and texture of this wine. The red and black fruit is modestly spicy and juicy but it’s the long, round, silky, palate and earthy, savoury Okanagan notes that make it especially attractive for the price. Well done.

Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut Méthode Classique 2016, Okanagan Valley

$21.79 | 89/100

UPC: 778829136261

This wine is consistently well made, and the combination of the bright 2016 vintage continues the string. This bubble is now razor sharp, with a wonderful freshness that runs from the front to the back of every sip. The mix is Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay — a strange combination, yet it yields a bright green apple and lemon pith white, flecked with salty, lemon-soaked nuts. It’s fizz for your favourite sushi. Excellent value.

Masroig Sola Fred Montsant 2017, Montsant, Cataluña, Spain

$19.99 | 89/100

UPC: 8437002456214

The Masroig, or “red farm,” co-op was established in Montsant, the “Holy Mountain” region surrounding Priorat, in 1918. This 100 per cent Samsó (Carignan) grown over clay and black slate is a delight to drink. It has all the floral, dried herbs and berries you could want in a red wine with moderate tannins that preview a medium-long finish. This is a wine drinker’s wine that can pump up any week night dinner or step in and punch above its weight on the weekend. A workhorse red for barbecue meats.

Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2017, Abruzzo, Italy

$22.99 | 90/100

UPC: 8032919422019

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Tiberio is made from 100 per cent indigenous Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes. The old, original 50-year-old clones represent a direct link to the traditional style of Cerasuolo, albeit with a modern twist: freshness and cleanliness. The colour is medium-dark despite a mere 20 minutes of skin contact. The aromas and flavours are very pure and mostly cherry in nature, save for a citrus twang beneath. As light and refreshing as this is, the flavours are surprisingly concentrated. Serve chilled for best results.

Less and more is the story of Napa Valley Cabernet Franc: less tannin, less structure, more aromatics, more lush textures. This is extremely attractive on the nose and palate, with a whack of juicy black fruit and only a tug of tannins from the addition of 20 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. The clusters were gently de-stemmed into traditional French oak tanks for a cold soak and fermentation/maceration that totalled 32 days. The new wine then ended up in new French oak to give it the finesse it deserves. Polished, serious and brooding, this would work with roasted meats now, but you could easily lay it away for a decade.

Related

Recipe

The Barefoot Contessa, Ina Garten has become an institution in cooking circles. And though she doesn’t consider herself a “professional” cook, she has nonetheless penned a new cookbook chock full of pro tips. Cook Like a Pro will elevate your game and this classic roast duck is a perfect place to start.

Roast Duck Breast

4 8-oz Moulard duck breasts

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil

2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter

½ cup (125 mL) minced shallots

1½ tbsp (22 mL) good sherry wine vinegar

¾ cup (185 mL) ruby Port wine

½ cup (125 mL) chicken stock

½ cup (125 mL) dried cherries

¼ cup (60 mL) crème fraîche

1 tsp (5 mL) grated orange zest

¼ cup (60 mL) freshly squeezed orange juice

Wrap each duck breast in plastic wrap and pound them with a meat mallet until each breast is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Place duck on a plate, sprinkle both sides with a total of 4 tsp (20 mL) salt, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 F (175 C). Score the skin of the duck breasts with a sharp knife, making a cross-hatch pattern but not cutting down to the meat. In a large, heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Place duck breasts in the pan, skin side down. Cook uncovered over medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes, discarding the fat from the pan occasionally, until the skin is very brown. Turn the duck with tongs, place the skillet in the oven, and roast until the internal temperature of the duck is 120 degrees for rare. Remove from the oven, cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil, and allow the duck to rest for 10 minutes.