The Matterhorn
(4478 meters, 14,688 feet) obviously requires no introduction. It's unique
and beautiful form, its importance in the history of alpinism and the
dramatic story of its first ascent, guarantee its place in the mountaineering
Hall of Fame. The classic Hörnli Ridge will always be popular not
only because of its history, but also for the quality of its situation,
following a beautiful and exposed line between the steep East and North
faces of the peak.

Strictly
speaking, the climbing is moderate in technical difficulty, but because
of its length (a vertical gain of 4000 feet on technical ground), altitude
and exposure, requires efficiency of movement and attention to technique,
as well as commitment and endurance. The fact that it is undoubtedly one
of the most sought after routes in the Alps, does not diminish its qualities
as a demanding and beautiful ascent.

Normally
the ascent takes two days from Zermatt; one to approach the Hörnli
Hut, the second to climb the route and return to Zermatt. But for a successful
attempt, we strongly recommend that you spend some time acclimatizing
in the area, and also doing two or three warm up climbs. This will help
you to get used to the pace this long route requires, the qualities of
the local rock, and generally to get used to the climbing on exposed terrain
that the route entails. See
our 6-day Matterhorn our 7-day
Matterhorn & Monte Rosa programs–we specifically designed
these trips to address these important needs.

The Matterhorn needs to be in good, relatively dry (snow free) climbing condition to be a reasonable objective. Please see our Matterhorn Conditions page for a much more detailed discussion of this.

The
ascent of the Matterhorn is long and continuously
exposed. On our summit day we will need to climb
over 4000 of steep and semi-technical terrain.
The descent is by the same route, nearly all
of it down climbed. In order to maintain an
adequate margin of safety and energy we will
need to ascend from the hut to the summit in
less than about 6 hours. Descent normally takes
an additional 4 to 5 hours and requires great
care and attentiveness. An ability to move continuously
and comfortably on exposed rock is required.
Additionally, climbers must be in excellent
physical condition.

For all
our ascents of the Matterhorn we climb at a ratio of one climber to one
guide. We feel this low ratio is necessary for safety of the rope team
and to increase chances of summit success. The local Zermatt guides also
climb only at this ratio for the same reasons. While higher climber to
guide ratios may be more economically profitable in the short term, we
believe the added risk and decreased chance of success are unacceptable.

Difficulty

This is a
challenging program for experienced climbers. The Matterhorn is primarily
a rock climb, with some steep snow. The challenge on this peak is to keep
to good time while climbing carefully and smoothly. In technical terms
the difficulties are not extreme, being only about 5.6. But this route
is very exposed and entail thousands of feet of steep 4th class rock that
must be climbed quickly and surely, over 4000 feet of steep climbing from
hut to summit, which must be descended as well. Climbers must be able
to keep to a pace which allows an ascent in 4 to 5 hours. The descent
takes about the same amount of time.

Prerequisites

Participants
for all Matterhorn climbs must have previous
rock and ice climbing experience and be in very
good condition. You should be able to climb
5.7 rock on a top rope quickly and with little
difficulty. You should have extensive experience
scrambling on steep rock, such as climbing in
the Sierra, Cascades or Tetons. You need to
be comfortable cramponing on steep 50 degree
frozen snow or soft ice, both in ascent and
descent.