Cincinnati utility hydraulic shaper 20"

Hello All,
I bought this shaper from a online auction unseen. Big mistake. Found damage on it after it was paid for while strapping down on truck.

Cincinnati utility hydraulic shaper 20" S/N 31235. I will try to attach a pic. The casting holding the table feed stuff on the main frame is broken. I had to remove the fiberglass cover to really see it.
If anyone knows of one of these being parted out or where I can get parts, parts manual, date of build, would be a life saver.
Thanks again
Steve

It is just a cover, so I imagine you could braze or nickel weld it back up just fine. Look at John Oder’s post about his 20” Greaves Klusman lathe. He has extensive pictures and discussion of his repair of major casting cracking. It will show you how a master does it! It is a recently updated post, so just scroll down in this forum and take a look

repairing castings with bronze weld isnt difficult....issue is when bits are missing,then there is a problem.......Anyhoo ,this is a good example of rule #1.....never pay more than scrap price ,if you cant inspect the machine working...(not just going)

Hello, with the help of Walter who I got parts from, Thank you Walter. The machine is ready to operate. Trouble, setting up the electric clutch/brake. the brake seems to work ok, the clutch hardly gets the machine to move, and the oil pump is not building any pressure. This is a 1958-59 model. I thought it was a hyd. unit because it was different from what we had to use in the power plant but it is machinal. Anyway, I will need to go after the oil pump, I am guessing it is in the transmission. Does any one have a set-up directions for the electric clutch? or know of any thing to watch out for going after the oil pump. I have not been able to find a manual for this year of shaper. All help will be much appreciated. Thanks …..Steve

Get the cover off the left side (facing shaper looking at cuttiing tool coming at you - your left)

As you look into the works in the column, bull gear (with the crank pin) HAS TO TURN clockwise - this will make the cutting stroke relatively slow and the return stroke relatively fast

When you do get the pump running, one of its most important jobs is to oil the crank pin block as it slides up and down in the vertical arm - some oiling you can't even see until that side cover is off

I found in one of the online manuals it said counter clockwise, the belt guard does have the arrows showing left hand rotation so I believe rotation is correct. What I need to find out about is the oil pump accessibility, can I get access by removing the transmission cover(?) on the back, above the motor? maybe there is a bad hose inside there. The other thing I need to find out is the proper location of the clutch/brake hub. If I adjust the retaining nut to tight everything will lock up. To lose, clutch does not engage. How to make it just right, with out using a hammer to get the drive hub to spin.
I found on another post to put strokes per min to 0 and shift speed to higher range to help prime the pump. I did this and got the drive hub to spin but oil pressure will not build up. I removed hoses, suction and discharge and tried to prime the pump as with the new oil filter, still no go. Also checked the pick-up check valve when I cleaned the crankcase and oil sump.
Any ideas of what else to do? Thank you for looking......Steve

Hey all, we got the oil pump to working and 50# on the gauge, disconnected the pump discharge hose and started machine as before and pump flowed a few minutes. Reconnected hose and tested, tested good. Now loaded the machine with some 10" of stroke, electric clutch needed help to get the hub spinning and now a loud knock. I think the knock is the rocker arm moving sideways, I found about 3/8" side movement of the thing. I am not sure what controls the side thrust of the rocker arm. Pics of the rocker arm, see the space on the shaft and rocker arm. Any ideas out there? set-up instructions of the elec clutch? //////// Steve

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