Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.

Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.

Congrats Troy! How did you find the high roll centers? Couldn't make it this year as work is way to busy for me to take time off... hopefully next year!

Had a decent run at the Australian National Titles over the weekend with the Losi. Was a weekend of crazy high temps with most peoples tyres turning to jelly after 2 laps. I managed 4th in modified against Australia's best. Setup below.

good job! 40c air temp!

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRXS_chris

I'm still confused as to what you guys refer to as droop, mainly how you measure it.

The way I see it is if you add/increase droop you are making the suspension arms 'sag/drop' more. Is this correct or is that decreasing droop?

Also what are you using to measure? Are you using the Losi gauge that comes in the kit? If so, when 2mm for example is quoted is that at 2 on the gauge??

I'm still confused as to what you guys refer to as droop, mainly how you measure it.

The way I see it is if you add/increase droop you are making the suspension arms 'sag/drop' more. Is this correct or is that decreasing droop?

Also what are you using to measure? Are you using the Losi gauge that comes in the kit? If so, when 2mm for example is quoted is that at 2 on the gauge??

Your assumption is correct, adding droop makes the arms sag lower as the suspension is unloaded. In my case, I am measuring droop with a standard ride height gauge. I simply note the static ride height, 5.5mm in the rear of my car, then I hold both tires down while lifting the chassis up hard against the droop screws. In a feat of pinky finger wizardry, I slide the ride height under the chassis to measure it again (8mm for example). The droop is simply the difference between static ride height and the fully unloaded measurement, 2.5mm in this case.

I don't use the kit droop gauge because my old ass car has too much slop in the various suspension components. If the car had new, slop-free components, it would be more accurate to use the kit droop gauge, as the tires would not introduce any discrepencies into the measurement IMO.

Congrats Troy! How did you find the high roll centers? Couldn't make it this year as work is way to busy for me to take time off... hopefully next year!

Its amazing how well the high roll centers and no JR link worked with a little chassis flex. It basically brought the car to "life" with crazy response into and out of turns. The most notable change on the car though was the reduction of rear toe which let the car rotate so much faster. That was a fine balancing act to keep the car straight and go fast.

Prolly the biggest achivement for this chassis though was my brothers 1st outing with it at this event. I couldn't 100% duplicate my setup direction with his chassis at this stage but 1st time out and he finished 15th in stock (17.5). Not bad for someone who has raced less than 10 times. I personally belive he had the fastest stock car on the track as I personally did many mid to low 19 second laps with it on the practice day while all the stock boys where trying to figure out how to get into the 19's in the hot weather. His diff held up fine in the dusty conditions running all weekend without a rebuild.

Anyway I need to do a little more testing to find a BASE SETUP for the current chassis config. I'll post it when I have it sorted. Note you may need my upper deck mod to get the best out my setups.

Droop: I measure droop as suspension down travel over ride height. In other words its how far the suspension moves down as you lift the chassis upwards. I don't think its important as to how you measure this (I use setup wheels for droop and ride height and calculate from there) as long as you can measure it correctly. In essence droop "limits" how far your chassis can transfer weight from one end or side to the other. Running lots of droop will allow your chassis to "roll" to a greater degree if sufficient force is applied. Running minimal droop will prevent your chassis from rolling even under large loads with soft springs/swaybars. Like all setup components its up to you to find the settings and characteristics that best suit your track and driving style.

Its amazing how well the high roll centers and no JR link worked with a little chassis flex. It basically brought the car to "life" with crazy response into and out of turns. The most notable change on the car though was the reduction of rear toe which let the car rotate so much faster. That was a fine balancing act to keep the car straight and go fast.
...

I've been running high roll centers all around for the past 6-8 mo. I've even experimented pushing them another .30 and .60" but found no noticeable improvement in lap time with doing that. I also use the short (non-JR) link on the front. I've used this setup indoor and out. The only thing I've been changing from track to track is rear sway bar off or on, and then front springs. I typically run 12.5 lb spring all around but if the front of the car is dumping out under braking causing a push going into the turn I will go to 15 or 17.5 lb spring. I find my setups to be very easy on tires and I usually will get a few more golden runs off a set.

The thing I like most about the high roll centers is the feel I get out of the corners. It's like the car just squares up and goes where a low roll center car for me always seems to stay into the corner too much for my liking.

I do think turning circle should be looked at when running high roll centers more so than the tradition setups. I typically run about a 1 meter turning circle.

I've been running high roll centers all around for the past 6-8 mo. I've even experimented pushing them another .30 and .60" but found no noticeable improvement in lap time with doing that. I also use the short (non-JR) link on the front. I've used this setup indoor and out. The only thing I've been changing from track to track is rear sway bar off or on, and then front springs. I typically run 12.5 lb spring all around but if the front of the car is dumping out under braking causing a push going into the turn I will go to 15 or 17.5 lb spring. I find my setups to be very easy on tires and I usually will get a few more golden runs off a set.

The thing I like most about the high roll centers is the feel I get out of the corners. It's like the car just squares up and goes where a low roll center car for me always seems to stay into the corner too much for my liking.

I do think turning circle should be looked at when running high roll centers more so than the tradition setups. I typically run about a 1 meter turning circle.

I plan to try some very soft springs next time I get out to play. I agree with you that the car is very "square" with the high rollcenters which did allow me to run very little rear toe in (2 degrees). I always run steering lock at maximum (filed knuckles) and just use what I need. This does however make the car less forgiving to drive so it depends on how much steering you can handle. If you don't run a lot of steering lock I suggest you try less ackerman for more steering everywhere.

Kirkwood,
are you still running the spool? I tried the spool with the 12.5 springs and could not get it to work. I keep going back to the old diff. I did find that the changes to improve lap times with the diff. The only issue it is a bit more difficult to drive. I did not use that setup the last time we raced (did not have time).