INCUBATION, HATCHING & BROODING HATCHING EGGS ARE ALSO SOLD THROUGH EBAY & THESE ARE SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY.

Hatching your own eggs is an interesting, rewarding and cost effective way to owning your own birds. From our own experience it can also be very addictive once you get going!!

We sell Hatching eggs from our special pure bred stock of chicken, bantam, geese and ducks.

WE ALSO SELL OUR HATCHING EGGS ON EBAY!!:)

Hatching eggs are available on a seasonal basis between February and September only, dependent on the breed.

All eggs are carefully wrapped in tissue paper before being placed in purpose made, special poly boxes. The boxes are then wrapped in bubble wrap, which help to keep them safe whilst going through the postal system. We also mark them as "Fragile" to ensure that they receive the best possible care whilst in transit.

Please order by email or by completing an enquiry form on this website. Eggs will be posted 2 working days upon reciept of cleared cheque, or once paid via Paypal.

Upon arrival, if the eggs have been posted, It is best to let them settle for 24-hours before placing them in a pre-warmed incubator, or under a broody hen.

We regularly incubate and test a number of our eggs to check for fertility.

Although we do our best to ensure eggs will not be damaged in transit, as with any supplier of hatching eggs, we cannot guaranteed them to be delivered undamaged or fertile. Fertility is unfortunately down to Mother nature.

Please therefore do not ask for refunds on damaged, infertile eggs, or for eggs which fail to hatch.

All Prices include packaging

Payment is by cleared cheque, or we will send you a Paypal invoice. Eggs will be posted out within 2 working days upon reciept of full payment and you will be notified by email when the eggs have been despatched.

CHICKENS

Breed

Price Per Egg

Breed

Price per Egg

Blue/ Blue Splash Cochin

Not available

Buff Orpington (L/F)

Not available

Crested Cream Legbar (auto sexing)

£1.00 each

Dark Brahma (feather sexed)

Not available

DUCKS & GEESE

Breed

Price Per Egg

Breed

Price Per Egg

Indian Runner Duck: Pure White

N/A

Indian Runner Duck Pure white (Crested/ Bali)

N/A

Giant Dewlap Toulouse Goose

£10.00 each

Chinese Goose

N/A

POSTAGE COSTS

These prices are for chicken and duck eggs only, this may increase slightly for goose eggs to allow for the additional size and weight.

Additional Postage 1st Class (UK)

£5.00 for 6 eggs

Additional Postage 2nd Class (UK)

£4.00 for 6 eggs

Additional Postage Special Next Day Delivery (UK)

£10.00 for 6 eggs

For EU postage - Airmail Delivery

£14.00 for 6 eggs

Hatching Time Chart

Chickens 21 days

Ducks 28 days

Geese (depends on size/breed of goose) 30-36 days

Turkeys 28 days

Quail 17-18 days

Guinea Fowl 28 days

Incubation/ Brooding Guide

Breed

Temperature

Humidity %

Humidity % & Temp Last 3 Days

Chicken

37.5C

50-55%

60-65%

Duck* depends on Breed

37.5C

58-60% *

75% 37C

Goose

37.5C

55%

75% 37C

1) Plan everything and have everything ready before you start the incubation process. Make sure you have the incubator in a place which is where you can't forget about it, where it isn't going to be knocked or disturbed in any way and somewhere out of drafts.

The Day before you want to set eggs. If the incubator is unfamiliar to you, carefully read the operating instructions. Ensure the incubator is clean (wipe with incubator disinfectant), works correctly, has the correct level of water and if it is automatic, the turning mechanism works properly.

Set incubator to 37.5 degrees. It must be constant at this temperature for at least 24-hours prior to putting the eggs in.

Clean the eggs in egg sanitizer and allow them to sit in the same room as the incubator for up to 24-hours, depending on whether they have been sent through the post or not. Only use eggs which are not cracked and are of a good shape.

2) When setting the eggs, ensure that the humidity is as near to 45% as possible. (This does depend on the type of eggs being hatched - waterfowl require a higher level of humidity). If you are hatching a number of breeds of chicken, it might be a good idea to put an abbreviation in pencil of which breed each egg is from. That way when they hatch, if you can't identify a breed straight away, you can always check the shells to see what has hatched. If the incubator does not have a countdown on it, make a note somewhere of the day that the eggs went in.

3) On the 7/8th day, check the fertility of the eggs with a candler. This is a special tool, which is similar to a torch. Hold it against the outside of each egg and check it for signs of life - you should see a small area of red veins with a tiny beating dot. This will be the birds tiny heart beating. It should be easy to visually establish whether the eggs are fertile or not. Discard any infertile eggs straight away, as they could begin to grow bad bacteria, which could spread to the other eggs. Don't keep the eggs out of the incubator too long, as the eggs may get cold quickly and the temperature/ humidity level in the incubator could drop.

Goose eggs can be finely misted a few times a day with luke warm water from a plant sprayer, whilst the lid/ door is open for a few minutes a day This mimicks the Mother Goose getting off the eggs, going for a swim and returning to sit.

4) Candle the eggs again at around the 14th day, removing any infertile eggs. Make sure that the water is topped up.

6) Increase the humidity in the last few days of hatching. This can be done by adding extra water to the water reservoir, or by adding an extra water tray. Humidity during this stage should be around 60/70%, depending on the breed being hatched. See above chart.

7) Don't disturb the eggs in the last 3 days of incubation. This will be when the chicks start digesting the yolk before breaking into the air sac at the blunt end of the egg. You will notice the eggs moving backward and forward on their own during this stage. You may also notice a tiny hole appearing on the shell. This is called the "pipping" stage and the hole is made by the tip of the chicks beak, which is called the "EggTooth". The hole will slowly lengthen in a half moon shape around the egg shell until the chick can push its way out. This can be a slow process and can sometimes take up to 24-hours.

8) Day 21 (for chickens) is hatch day. Sometimes, they hatch the day before, or the day after. If they are late or early, try not to worry. It is best practice to leave the chicks inside the incubator for the first 24-hours and remove them only after they have "fluffed up". By leaving them in the incubator until this time, this will give the other unhatched eggs the best chance of hearing the excited tweets from their siblings. By not opening the incubator until after most of the chicks have hatched, will keep the humidity high and the temperature at the right level. It will also prevent the eggs which have pipped already from drying out too quickly.

9) If the chicks don't make it out of the shells within 2-days of the hatch date. They may not be strong enough or healthy enough to hatch. Some people say it is best to leave them, they may make weak or sickly chicks. Other people will try to help them out themselves. It is up to you whether you decide to intervene or not. If you do decide to help the chick. Special care should be taken as the shell or membrane could be dry and stuck to the chick. If it bleeds, it is best to stop.

10) The chicks should be moved to a brooder with a heat lamp. We use either a cardboard box for small hatches, or a circle of hardboard. It should be approx. 2ft high, contain a good amount of litter (we use shavings) and should be covered by a mesh if there is any possibility of other animals/ rodents getting in. A heat lamp/ infra red lamp should be hung over the brooder, at approx 18" above the litter. This will depend on the wattage of the lamp. The behaviour of the chicks will indicate whether they are too cold or too hot, as if they are too cold they will huddle together under the lamp and if they are too hot, they will move away from the lamp. Adjust the height of the lamp to suit. It should be moved up a couple of inches a week until the chicks are feathered. The chicks should remain under the lamp for around 4/5 weeks depending on outside temperatures.

11) During the brooding stage, the chicks should be fed on Chick Crumbs and should have plenty of fresh water available. Ducklings and goslings should be fed on Duck/Goose Crumbs and not Chick Crumbs, as this usually contains Coccidiostats which are harmful to ducks and geese.

12) As the chicks have no Mother, they may need to be shown the food and water. You can gently dip the end of their beak into the water and sprinkle the feed until they start to peck it up. The chicks will watch and then learn very quickly from each other. After around a week, you can also being to add chopped up pieces of grass, this is very beneficial for ducks and goslings, as it is a valuable source of nourishment.

13) The chicks droppings may be sticky for the first couple of days. You may see a little ball stuck to the chicks vent. Try to remove this very gently with a piece damp cotton wool, so that it doesn't become blocked.

14) Between the middle to the end of the brood period, when the weather is fine, the chicks can be gradually introduced to an outside covered pen, for an hour at a time, increasing the time each day.

15) The lamp can be turned off during the day towards the end of the brooding time, depending on the weather. It can be gradually turned off for longer periods, until the chicks are no longer dependent on it.