The product instructions called for the wires to be connected to the blue/pink and blue/white wires. My truck has no blue/white wire ARGH! But after following the instructions you guys supplied, I was able to get the dynolock working.

Do NOT use the Blue/PINK, use the blue/RED! Because if you do, you'll get the long beeeep like the door is open and the lock won't do a thing.

There is a thin blue/pink wire and there's also a thicker blue/red wire which is the one to be used.

It's VERY tough to see the wires, as they're pulled tight and there's a bunch of em. The photos from an earlier post are spot on and show the correct wires. Again, don't use the really thin blue/pink.

I'm sure there are others out there wondering if they are able to do this. It's really fairly simple, especially thanks to previous posters in this thread. Below are a few more photos that might be helpful to others.

Here's what your tailgate looks like with the cover off, weird. Now I know why it feels so light.

I ran my wires through the hole in gate used by the camera wires. I drilled a hole through the plastic cover

Like others, I had to shave the plastic block. This allowed the unit to rotate a bit more and then the bolt would align better to prevent the handle from opening.

Using a portable battery jumper, you can test the action of the "lock". Simply reverse the connections to open or close.

There's a hole in the middle of the bed, wires fit through there nicely.

This is probably the coolest mod I've made to my truck. Even though I have a soft Tonneau, now I won't worry when I leave stuff in there for a few minutes or hours.

I bought the Dynolock and am planning on putting it in.
For the Access Cab, someone stated the wires are on the passenger side in front of the door. Can anyone tell me what color these are, and exactly WHERE they are?
I also don't quite understand the trimming on the actuator. What does it hit, and what part do you trim?
Thanks

I bought the Dynolock and am planning on putting it in.
For the Access Cab, someone stated the wires are on the passenger side in front of the door. Can anyone tell me what color these are, and exactly WHERE they are?
I also don't quite understand the trimming on the actuator. What does it hit, and what part do you trim?
Thanks

You have to trim the block so that it doesn't interfere with the handle mechanisms. I didn't do this at first and then discovered my handle wasn't working properly, so the tailgate didn't shut.

Here's the pic showing where I trimmed. Not much needs to be trimmed.

Actually, this was the first bit of trimming I had to do. There was more trimming on the other side I had to do for the handle mechanism.

I bought the Dynolock and am planning on putting it in.
For the Access Cab, someone stated the wires are on the passenger side in front of the door. Can anyone tell me what color these are, and exactly WHERE they are?
I also don't quite understand the trimming on the actuator. What does it hit, and what part do you trim?
Thanks

I believe that you access power under the driver's door sill cover. Several good pics in this thread of this area uncovered and showing which existing wires to tap into.

The only reference to "passenger" is that you want the tailgate to only open with a double-tap on the key fob. It should also open with the driver's door unlock button on the inside of the door.

As you know, one tap on the key fob only opens the driver's door by design to minimize wear on the other locks. You want your tailgate lock on the second circuit (double-tap) with the passenger door, for instance.
Again, you access the existing wiring under the driver's side door sill.

This is exactly what I want. One question though. Will I get the long Beeeeeep if my tailgate is open and I lock my doors? I'm thinking not because I haven't seen any feedback to the truck telling it that the tailgate is open. I ask because during the winter I'll be driving around with a sled deck in the back of my truck and the tailgate open like this...

This is exactly what I want. One question though. Will I get the long Beeeeeep if my tailgate is open and I lock my doors? I'm thinking not because I haven't seen any feedback to the truck telling it that the tailgate is open. I ask because during the winter I'll be driving around with a sled deck in the back of my truck and the tailgate open like this...

Thanks.

I have just installed mine, and you are correct: you won't get the long beep if you lock the truck with the tailgate open, since there are no sensors to tell the truck the tailgate is open (unlike for the doors). I frequently use it with the tailgate down and a bed extender, and have no problems. Happy sledding!

I just bought a used Leer cap with keyless entry. It has a standard solenoid on the lock with two wires to connect. I'm sure just like these tailgate locks, it locks, then unlocks when the polarity is reversed. Can I use the same wiring as the Dynolock does? Am I correct in assuming that the two wires that are described at the beginning of this thread send a one set of polarity when locking and then reverse themselves? So I can use them without adding a complicated setup with multiple relays?

I installed Dynolock on new truck around new years and just noticed I cannot open the left side passenger door from the inside (like a child lock). Havent been to dealer yet. Do you guys think this is related to the Dynolock install?

I just bought a used Leer cap with keyless entry. It has a standard solenoid on the lock with two wires to connect. I'm sure just like these tailgate locks, it locks, then unlocks when the polarity is reversed. Can I use the same wiring as the Dynolock does? Am I correct in assuming that the two wires that are described at the beginning of this thread send a one set of polarity when locking and then reverse themselves? So I can use them without adding a complicated setup with multiple relays?

Thanks!

Good morning CMOS,

I would test it first with a quick connect directly to a 12V battery (just to be sure it's still functional), but in theory, and as long as it truly is a standard power lock solenoid, you should should have no issue tieing it in to the existing wiring for your dyno-lock.

I installed Dynolock on new truck around new years and just noticed I cannot open the left side passenger door from the inside (like a child lock). Havent been to dealer yet. Do you guys think this is related to the Dynolock install?

If the door opens from the outside, then the power door lock is not engaged, so it would be unrelated to the dyno lock install. Have you checked the child lock switch on that door (the rear doors do have child locks on the Tacoma)? If the child lock is not engaged, a trip to the dealer/shop may be in order.

I just bought a used Leer cap with keyless entry. It has a standard solenoid on the lock with two wires to connect. I'm sure just like these tailgate locks, it locks, then unlocks when the polarity is reversed. Can I use the same wiring as the Dynolock does? Am I correct in assuming that the two wires that are described at the beginning of this thread send a one set of polarity when locking and then reverse themselves? So I can use them without adding a complicated setup with multiple relays?

Thanks!

This is inline with what I want to do. Ideally to me it would all be controlled separately with a Viper or other remote-start alarm so that I could unlock the tailgate and topper without necessarily unlocking the rest of the truck, and vice-versa.

I've had my lock for about two years and have had to open everything up several times to adjust the actuator as it was not engaging and not locking properly. Any suggestions. Is this why some shave the nylon block? Can someone post pictures of where to shave the nylon? Actuator works fine just does not engage lock. Thanks in advance, any advice appreciated.