Learning Centre

Active Ingredients

A unique anti-wrinkle peptide proven to be effective against the development of skin wrinkling. A topical alternative to Botulinum Toxin A

Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer

An advanced polymer powder that instantly minimises the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Imparts a matt silky film that provides a primer feel.

Alpha Lipoic Acid

A topical enzyme that is a powerful antioxidant.

Apricot Kernel Oil

A rich source of Omegas 3, 6 & 9.

Argan Oil

A rich source of Omegas 3,6 & 9.

Avobenzone

A chemical UV absorber.

Benzophenone-3

A chemical UV absorber.

Bisoctrizole

A chemical UV absorber.

Cyclopentapeptide-5

A cyclic peptide mimics the natural processes of skin communication and repair. It inhibits degradation of the extracellular matrix.

Caffeine

Has soothing and antioxidant properties.

Calcium Pantothenate

Metabolizes in the skin into Pantothenic acid which attracts and holds moisture.

Ceramide 1, 3 & 6

dr.dermal’s ceramide complex is a multi-lamellar system of vegetable-derived, semi-synthetic ceramides, cholosterol, free fatty acids and phytosphingosine. Identical to lipids found in the skin, it has been concentrated and formulated into a system to provide enhanced skin moisturization and protection. It restores the protective barrier function of the skin and offers enhanced delivery and exchange of skin lipids. Especially suitable for dry skin, aging skin and sensitive skin.

Ceramide 3, 6 & EOP

dr.dermal’s ceramide complex is a multi-lamellar system of vegetable-derived, semi-synthetic ceramides, cholosterol, free fatty acids and phytosphingosine. Identical to lipids found in the skin, it has been concentrated and formulated into a system to provide enhanced skin moisturization and protection. It restores the protective barrier function of the skin and offers enhanced delivery and exchange of skin lipids. Especially suitable for dry skin, aging skin and sensitive skin.

Cholesterol

A waxy skin conditioner that is an integral part of skin structure.

Coenzyme Q10

A powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory substance. It is known to increase the antioxidant properties of other antioxidants when in the same environment.

Creatine

Stores energy in your cells and releases it when necessary for physiological activity.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate

A skin conditioning agent that works to improve the appearance of dry/damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. It also functions as an anti-irritant with anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

A chemical UV absorber.

Ferulic Acid

An antioxidant known to enhance the stability of topical applications of vitamin C. Helps to defend skin from environmental assault.

Glucosamine

Has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. It helps to counteract the effect of free radiclas produced by skin cells when theyre exposed to UV light or environmental pollutants.

Glycine Betaine

Functions primarily as a humectant (attracts moisture) and anti-irritant in skin care products.

Glycolic Acid

An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Derived from cane sugar, glycolic acid has the smallest molecules in the group and is consequently able to penetrate skin deeply and easily, making it the most effective and reliable AHA for anti aging treatments. Glycolic acid works by dissolving the protein bonds between dead skin cells enabling effective desquamation (shedding) of the horny cell layer.

Hemp Seed Oil

Rich in Omegas 3 & 6.

Hyaluronic Acid

A hygroscopic humectant, meaning is it a substance that attracts and holds moisture. A Hyaluronic acid molecule is capable of holding 1000 times its weight in water. It is effective in hydrating the skin and helping to maintain cellular water levels.

Jojoba Oil

The molecular structure of wax esters in Jojoba oil are similar to the wax esters found in our skin. This allows for a deeper penetration of the oil. Jojoba oil is rich in Vitamin A, essential fatty acids (Omega 6 & 9) and helps to regenerate skin cells and repair damaged skin tissue.

Kiwi Seed Oil

A rich source of Omega 3.

L-Ascorbic Acid

A powerful antioxidant known to help reverse skin damage from over exposure to the sun. Known to help stimulate collagen production and inhibit melanin synthesis.

Lactic Acid

A hydrating alpha hydroxy acid. Highly accepted with most skin types.

Liposomal Peptide Emulsion

The Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 peptides liposome emulsion contains the peptides pal-ghk and pal-gqp acting in synergy to repair the cutaneous damages of age. By activating the skin’s natural production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, the peptides work to reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging. Collagen, made up of long strands of amino acids, is really the main building block of skin, giving the skin its smooth, and youthful appearance. As we age, collagen is lost, and this gives way to aged, wrinkled looking skin. When the long strands of amino acids in collagen are broken down they create small chains commonly referred to as peptides. The presence of these peptides signal to the skin that it has lost collagen and the production of more is necessary. The peptides Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 work to mimic the appearance of this broken down collagen, causing your skin to react by producing more collagen, as well as elastin (responsible for the skin’s elasticity, and hyaluronic acid (which plumps up the skin and gives it that healthy, full look). The concentration of these peptides in this emulsion is twice the strength of Matrixyl 3000 – a commonly used peptide in skin care.

Liposomal Retinol

Active retinol molecules are subjected to a process whereby they are encapsulted in a liposome. This protects the retinol molecule from becoming unstable and facilitates a controlled release delivery and enhanced penetration through the bi-lipid layer of the skin. The controlled time release of retinol reduces the chances of irritation, while ensuring that the potency of the retinol is maintained.

Macadamia Nut Oil

Since oleic acid is moisturizing and anti-inflammatory while palmitoleic acid repairs skin cells, macadamia nut oil is particularly beneficial for mature skin. These fatty acids also make macadamia nut oil effective in preventing dry skin and discouraging the formation of wrinkles.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

A water-soluble, non-irritating, stable derivative of Vitamin C. It has the same potential as vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) to boost skin collagen synthesis but is effective in significantly lower concentrations, and can be used at lower concentrations to suppress melanin formation. It is also important to note that Magnesuim Ascorbyl Phosphate may be better choice than L-Ascorbic Acid for people with sensitive skin and those wishing to avoid any exfoliating effects since many L-Ascorbic Acid formulas are highly acidic (and therefore produce exfoliating effects).

Microencapsulated Retinol

Active retinol molecules are subjected to a process whereby they are encapsulted in microscopic capsule or sphere. This protects the retinol molecule from becoming unstable and facilitates a controlled release delivery and enhanced penetration through the bi-lipid layer of the skin. The controlled time release of retinol reduces the chances of irritation, while ensuring that the potency of the retinol is maintained.

Olive Squalane

This valuable lipid is extremely compatible with the skin and is safe for all skin types, making it a great choice for regenerative skin care, and anti-aging products. It is absolutely an essential oil for the skin, especially when a regenerative effect is desired.

Olive Oil

A rich source of Omegas 3 & 6.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A highly bio-active peptide that penetrates the skin deeply to stimulate collagen synthesis.

Olivem 1000

A complex combination of fatty acids similar to the lipidic composition of the skin surface.

Pomegranate Seed Oil

A rich source of Omega 5

Panthenol

The provitamin of B5 and is used in skin care as an emollient (skin softener) and lubricant.

Retinyl Palmitate

A milder form of Vitamin A. It is an effective antioxidant.

Pyridoxine HCL

The hydrochloride salt of vitamin B6. Deficiencies of this vitamin in the skin can lead to skin problems including contact dermatitis, irritation and eczema.

Shea Butter

A well known nourishing and emollient moisturizer. Known to be anti inflammatory in skin.

Salicylic Acid

A Beta Hydroxy acid. It is oil soluble allowing it to penetrate oily skin and congested pores (due to the keratin plug being composed of sebum and keratin).

Subtilisin

A keratinolytic enzyme that stimulates cellular renewal.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

A form of vitamin C that provides antioxidant properties in the skin.

Tocopherol

A form of vitamin E that is also an antioxidant.

Tocopherol Acetate

A form of vitamin E that provides antioxidant properties in the skin. It also strengthens the antioxidant properties of other antioxidants.

Tego Peptide 4-17

A peptide sequence based on skins own structure that minimizes the appearance of wrinkles and reduces skin roughness.

Titanium Dioxide

A physical UV barrier – reflects UV light

Vitamins A, B, C & E

Are all antioxidants

Skin Care Glossary and Explanations

Acne
A skin condition that manifests itself in the form of blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and/or cysts. These lesions are thought to result from the accumulation of keratin proteins, bacteria and oil in hair follicles.

Alkali
A substance that has an opposite reaction to acid and is capable of neutralizing it.

Allergy
An acquired sensitivity to a substance. When allergic reactions occur following external contact, they usually produce eczema-like dermatitis, usually characterized by redness, itching and swelling.

Antihistamine
Medicine used to counteract histamine, a chemical released by the body during an allergic reaction, which contributes to inflammation.

Astringent
An agent that is capable of shrinking and contracting skin tissue, temporarily and locally.

Atopic dermatitis
Also called eczema, this is a chronic, recurring inflammatory skin disorder that usually first appears in babies or very young children and may last through adulthood. Eczema causes the skin to itch and develop a red, scaly, patchy rash. It often develops in people who have hay fever or asthma, or who have family members with these conditions.

Atopic triad
Atopic dermatitis (commonly called eczema) forms part of what is known as the atopic triad, which also includes hay fever (allergic rhinitis) and asthma. It is a medical term doctors use to refer to these 3 allergic disorders.

Atrophy (skin)
Thinning of the skin.

Brightening and glow
Uneven skin tone could result from acne blemishes, freckles, melasma, or photoaging. This is the case where acids are your friend. Glycolic, salicylic and Vitamin C are the best ingredients for skin brightening.

Botanical
A substance derived or extracted from a plant.

Calming
Calming is another way of saying a product has anti-inflammatory properties. Basically, calming relieves redness caused by irritation. Some natural ingredients that help achieve this are carnosine, chamomile, aloe vera, allantoin, and hyuloronic acid.

Chronic
Long lasting and recurring; referring to a disease or disorder that lasts for a long time.

Collagen
A fibrous protein that gives skin its firmness. When the collagen fibers are stretched or strained, the skin loses its elasticity and the area wrinkles and sags. Collagen is used in skin care products because of its moisture binding properties.

Comedones
Blackheads. More evident in acne-prone skin.

Cream
A semisolid mixture of oil and water that is mostly oil and is intended for topical use.

Dermatitis
Inflammation of the skin.

Dermis
Connective tissue layer under the epidermis. Contains blood vessels, nerves, glands and hair follicles. Most often referred to as “the true skin”.

Elasticity
Flexibility; the ability of your skin to stretch and spring back.

Elastin
Elastin is the protein that gives skin its elasticity.

Emollient
An ingredient that softens and moisturizes the skin.

Emulsifier
An agent used to combine two liquids that ordinarily do not mix, such as oil and water.

Enhancing/boosting
Enhancing is the same as boosting. For the skin they both increase the proteins within the skin, which leads to firmer, fuller-looking skin. The ingredients within a product that promises to enhance should be similar to those that promise to perfect and tighten.

Epidermis
The outermost (visual) layer of the skin where skin cells are formed, mature and die. It contains 6 different layers of which the basal layer refers to the layer where new skin cells are being formed.

Exfoliant
An ingredient or product that is used to remove, or exfoliate, dead cells from the surface of the skin.

Exfoliate
Remove dry, scaly skin.

Follicle
A deep, narrow, tube-like channel in which a hair grows. The opening of the channel on the skin surface is the pore.

Fragrance
A compound (a combination of two or more elements) made of volatile (evaporates at room temperature) chemicals that create an odour. Fragrances and perfumes are typically comprised of dozens or even hundreds of synthetic chemical compounds.

Free radicals
Unstable reactive molecules that can initiate a chain reaction of gradual damage to skin cells. They are generated through UV exposure, smoke, and other pollutants – and can be prevented primarily through the use of antioxidants
and sunscreens.

Humectant
A substance that promotes the retention of moisture.

Hydrate
To add moisture/water to the skin.

Hypoallergenic
Formulated to reduce the risk of allergic reactions by avoiding ingredients that are most likely to cause these problems. This does not mean that allergic reactions are not possible, but rather that they are less likely to occur.

Inflammation
The body’s natural response to injury or abnormal stimulation by a physical, biological, or chemical agent. Typical signs of inflammation include pain, itchiness, warmth, redness, and loss of function.

Keratin
A tough, fibrous protein found in the surface cells of the skin, hair and nails.

Lipid Barrier Repair
Elements reintroduced into skin to reinforce the intercellular lipid barrier, which is responsible for moisture retention.

Lotion
A semisolid mixture of oil and water that is mostly water and is intended for topical use.

Melanin
The pigment produced by the skin cells known as melanocytes. The amount and size of the melanin granules is what determines the skin’s color or skin tone. Melanin is also a natural defense against ultraviolet radiation.

Moisturizer
Something that will make skin softer and more pliant by increasing its hydration. Also called emollient.

Natural
Understood to mean that the product is formulated with ingredients that originate or are extracted from substances that were once living. Examples of natural substances include fruit, vegetable and herbal extracts.

Nourishing
Refers to ingredients that provide nutrients to the skin. The ingredients include essential fatty acids, ceramides, Vitamin E and other oils derived from natural substances like olives and soybean.

Non-comedogenic
Minimizes potential to cause acne.

Ointment
A clear, greasy semi-solid (contains no water) preparation that is intended for topical use.

Perfecting
“Perfecting” creams are all about texture. Perfecting products are geared towards those looking to smooth or retexturize the skin, giving a more perfect, even feel. Perfecting mostly refers to minimizing or resolving superficial imperfections such as fine lines and wrinkles, coarse skin texture, large pores, mild to moderate acne, rosacea, acne scarring, or discoloration caused by acne scarring. The perfect perfecting ingredients are glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and Vitamin A (Retinol).

pH
The level of acidity or alkalinity of a solution or substance. If the pH of a product is too different from the pH of the skin it could damage the skin. It is estimated that the ‘natural’ skin surface pH is on average 4.5.

Photoaging
Refers to accelerated signs of aging, which are caused by overexposure to sunlight.

Sebum
The skin’s own oil. Sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands and secreted through the hair follicles.

Stratum Corneum
Outermost layer of the epidermis, composed of non-living protein. More commonly referred to as the dead skin layer.

Surfactant / Surface active agent
Any compound that reduces surface tension when dissolved in water solutions, or between a liquid and a solid. In personal care products these typically act to remove oil from the skin.

Systemic
Involving the whole body.

Tightening/toning
Tightening generally tends to mean firming or reducing pore size. The suggestion is to use products packed with peptides for firming, and glycolic and salicylic acids to give the feeling of tightening.

Topical
Pertaining to the surface of the skin; a medication applied to the skin.

Viscosity
A term to describe the flow characteristics of a product. Also commonly used to describe how thick or thin a liquid is.