Also, as a side, my technition asked me to sit in the driver seat while he set the alignment specs with me in the car. Just a little something extra I have not heard of before my alignment.

This is called "weighting". It is how all performance alignments should be done, IMHO. And is how I did them all when I was wrenching. I will have mine done this way if I ever get my damn CO's. Not gonna say names but you know who you are

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"You were really flyin' when I passed you back there!" - Born on 10/05/09MyCamaroBuildInfo

So what is the best specs for to keep tire ware to a minimum (no uneven tire ware)? factory specs? Going to be dropping my car to around 1.25-1.50 inchs, so do i need the alignment kit?

A thing to remember here is that camber wears a tire slower than toe does. This is because it is an angle that is inline with tire rotation as opposed to toe which is not (perpendicular).

As an example: for every mile the tire moves forward with say .125in (1/8th in) of toe in (or out) it is equivalent to being dragged sideways for 1/8 of a mile! Get the toe wrong and you can waste a tire much quicker than camber ever can...

So if I were to end up -1.0 camber (I would want that number but that is beside the point) I would apply 1/16-1/8in toe in to even the tire wear out across the face of the tire. With the tendency to use the least amount of toe as possible in the rear as it tends to remain fairly "static". As for the front you have to account for it being not so "static", especially when braking as there is a high amount of weight transfer to the front and can radically change the toe setting. Pulling down on the front end while it is on the rack can show this. I usually divide the difference between static vs loaded in half and add it in to the toe amount (add toe in if the change is negative toe and reduce toe in if the change is additional toe in).

If you are lowering a car for performance and having a performance alignment done, you need to be prepared to have some reduced tire wear....

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"You were really flyin' when I passed you back there!" - Born on 10/05/09MyCamaroBuildInfo

i was wondering about this, the arm only has the 1 bushing in it, the other one is in the spindle assy. link to these trailing arm spindle bushings?

Keep in mind that all bushings are not the same!! BMR uses a 95 durometer bushing for the trailing arm inner bushings. The same 95 durometer bushing is used on both ends of the toe rods.

This is a stronger bushing than the bushings offered by some suspension companies. Higher strength means less bushing deflection, which is the main reason for replacing the bushings in the first place. Using a bushing with soft polyurethane is like using a running shoe with soft rubber.