You will find this is a Chevy/Ford or in the Synthetic/Dino conversation, where whatever someone is doing, is usually the best...

Now, let me tell you the best!

All kidding aside. As I read the responses, you seem to be getting a mix between Gel Coat vs Full Body Paint. Though you said paint, be sure it is paint, as how you work to restore the finish is different between the two.

If it is full body paint, and depending upon how 'bad it is gone', you will may need to add more aggressive steps then this. But, assuming it is just a neglected clear coat over a full body paint, here is my recommended steps:

1) Wash top down with Dawn. (The alkaline removes/cuts all left of built up waxes, grease, and misc other unknown substances.)

2) Spot check around the coach, with appropriate 'more tuff' touch up cleaning. (Tar, bug and tar removal. Scuffs and more stubborn hard water/white roof marks - start with Magic Eraser, and work up as needed with rubbing compounds.) The goal here is to treat local bad spots as needed, getting them the best you can.

3) Sorry, but if you did lots of touch up, was the sides again with Dawn, and then do a final drying. (I usually watch for 100% good quality towel sells, and stock up on 'car and coach' dedicated drying towels.)

4) Again for lightly neglected clear coat only. Try some of the All-In-One products available. They light cut/clean the clear coat, and wax at the same time. Many available, TR3 is one, but all of the big wax companies have such a product. I personally have had good luck with all things Zaino. Internet sales only. Their AIO Z-AIO All-in-one: Zaino Store
has done a good job on both my Bounders Gel Coat (it was medium bad on the neglect-ion scale when I first bought it.) And I've had to use it on a few of the lower panels of our Country Coach.

What's nice about this is you are only Wax On/Wax Off one time.

5) UV is the enemy. So even though many of the products include UV protection, I always take another 20 minutes to go over one more time with either Zaino ZCS (Very good on glass too, as it is like RainX on steroids.) Or, I also have and use Aerospace 303 too. (I have a floor swifter wan, and attached dedicated micro towels to it. Quick spray of a 4-5' wide side area, then up and down with the swifter/micro cloth. With Zaino ZCS just walk away Wax On, No Wax Off! With Aerospace 303, I usually flip the micro towel over to cover the wet area of the cloth, and go over it just after having applied that one section. (Hard to explain, but play with the standard yellow micro fiber towels, and you will see how if you first set it up to have a wet surface, the cover the wet surface by just flipping the hanging loose portion over the wet side.) I can do our 40' sides with two cloths per side.)

OK - So say you have more neglected products, then you need to step up the aggressiveness of the cutting, with different levels of compounds. I also have a good selection of the 3M products. Their compounds come in different aggressiveness levels.

Also as mentioned, get a good quality orbital buffer. Rent one if you want. But be sure you have a good clean pad for application, and then removal too. I use four main pads with a Porter Cable 6" Orbital Buffer. I mark one as Compound. Another for wax. And then the other two are marked for Compound removing, and Wax Removing. (A bit anal, but it was a one time investment, and I've used these for several projects.)

Let the buffer do the work, pick and area to work with that is not as well seen, like down low on the rear bumpers of my coach, and learn/get a feel for how the buffer works.

And also, if you don't want to do all of this yourself, hire a professional (and do your research, and get a person that has the right years of experience). They will have all of the toys and goops to do what is needed.

Either yourself, or via a Professional Detailer - you now have a baseline to go forward with.

On going maintenance for us is to wash every with a good auto wash that complements your wax of choice. I also will then spay Wax as You Dry type products on to the wet surface before towel drying. I then go over with either Zaino ZCS or Aerospace 303.

Plastics and Tires are very well supported with Aerospace 303. The UV protection on the tires will add to their sidewall health.

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What he said... I like 3M products too, and I wax with a pure carnuba wax (my choice for shine).

I would only add that if you are dealing with gel coat and not paint, and it is way far gone, a first step of wet sanding will save a great deal of compounding time and effort, use a very fine, i.e. 1600 grit or finer as first step to be safe. Messy but effective, my coach was badly oxidized when I got it, actually did 2 wet sand levels and then compound and wax. Now just have to maintain. When I got it the surface was as dull and rough as a brown paper bag, now shiny and glossy. People think it is new when they see it.

Depends how flat the gelcoat is, FL sun does kill the shine of Fiberglass, I found Home Depot's best acrylic floor wax is great but if you don't do a good cleanup with Barkeepers friend and thorough rinse you will incorporate some of the left over dirt and make a mess.
Only way it comes off is with ammonia or a few years. 3 coats and the shine looks like a new unit.

We have FBP and all I use is Dry Wash N Guard. People still think it's new after 11 years, Never been stored inside in it's life. I just do it once a year if I have time and maybe not even that (like last year and so far not this year). So slick that even water doesn't stay. I do the glass too and usually don't even need the windshield wipers as the water runs off.
No, I don't sell it anymore either.

After reading all the threads on using ZEP (lots of pros and cons) and having to 'treat' it every 6 mos or before it begins to peel, I decided to stick with good old fashion paste car wax. At least that way I won't have to 'strip' all the wax and totally redo it once it starts to peel.

The PO of our Itasca Horizon must have been off-roading or really didn't know where the right side of the coach was...the bay doors were all scratched by something harder than the paint. I used a Turtle Wax polishing compound and then immediately followed with a quality carnuba auto wax. The doors came out looking spectacular and are so smooth that even spiders and ants can't get a grip. I figure that by the time I get the whole coach done it'll be time to start over.

I have read so many pros and cons on using ZEP process that I am staying as far away from that process as possible. If it starts to peel you are screwed and have to strip it all off and start over. No thanks.
I am going to use white polishing compound and a car wax on my 1998 HR Endeavor. I am the second owner. The first owner had it cleaned and waxed once a year and they only used auto wax on it. She looks good but the decals have some fade so I am going to try white polish compound (Turtle Wax) on them. I also like the ideas of Marine wax or the 3 M product mentioned in other posts here.