Check your fuses first then check rectifiers or regulator they are same thing and you can by new rectifiers really quit cheap do not get sucked in and pay 100 dollars or more when you get one from 10 dollars to 20 dollars on ebay a bike shop will say new need a special one which will cost alot look on utube how to check your rectifier and that should fix it if thats not the problem it is your stator but they usually last for ever

Hi, Bob moisture, condensation, rain, or bike washing can make the bike run sluggish, not able to rev, and misfire. Older bikes, engine configuration, and exposed electrical components are at the front of the line for acting up. During the diagnostic procedure spray Electrical Contact Cleaner on corroded wire connectors/pins/sockets etc. and apply a liberal amount of "DIELECTRIC" grease to the mating harness/wire connectors. WD40 works great for eliminating suspect areas in your quest to find the real offending gremlin.
For additional insurance you can spray a High Temp Clear Coat on the most vulnerable areas it will work like Scotch Guard does on fabric. Fabricate a rubber or plastic splash guard to deflect water coming off the front wheel getting to the front cylinder spark plugs. The design should be adequate for its purpose with the least amount of airflow restriction to cool the cylinders. The usual suspects are:
1. Air filter soaked with water.
2. Water in the fuel system gas tank and carburetors.
3. Wet ignition coil packs.
4. Spark plug boots wore out or loose allowing water to enter.
5. Spark plug cables old and cracked check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Spark plug wells filled up and drain holes clogged.
7. Water in a wire harness that has exposed open ends and have a sharp bend or crimp allowing the liquid to form its own pool of potential threats to chaffed wiring.
8. Sensitive fuel tuners and downloaded ECM remaps may get confused with the abnormal cylinder temperature difference in a V-4 engine configuration.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Scoot wont start after rain02 X9 500 rain damage drained battery wont startPiaggio 633234 Workshop ManualPiaggio X9 EVOLUTION 500 2004 PartsPIAGGIO X9 Evolution 500 User Manual

hi
this issue is just general lack of maintenance
some of these had a drum brake and some had a disc brake
either way your braking system is dirty and needs a service
it is a case of trial and error
by removing the brake peddle you can slide the pivot in and out of the hole
there may be some corrosion on this
so with emery clothe you can clean it up
give it a slight coating of grease the put it back
do this with all moving parts going down to the rear brake
ie: take off clean and put some grease on it
at no point get any grease on either your brake disc or brake pads
same as drum and drum brake pads

Hi, J it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?322802-2009-engine-light-on-and-no-startResetting your service light on Piaggio MP3 scooterPIAGGIO MP3 500 SPORT Service Station Manualhttps://oem-parts.hu/en/parts/piaggio/mp3-300PIAGGIO LUM MP3 300 YOURBAN RL NRL 2011 Owner Manual

Hi, Noel and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Bike cutting out at Full Throttle 50cc ScooterMoped bogging down not running mark savagehttps://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/piaggio_nrg_power_dt_servicemanual.pdfPiaggio NRG MC3 2002 PartsPIAGGIO NRG POWER PUREJET User Manual

Hi, Marty before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Modern Vespa my fly 150 won start stuck in townhttps://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?212409-Fly-150-won-t-startPiaggio Fly 150 4T Workshop ManualPiaggio FLY 150 2005 PartsPiaggio Fly 150 Owners Manual Like eBay

Hi, John and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter Dying Out When You Come to Stop Low Idlehttp://mp3scooterclub.co.uk/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1884PIAGGIO MP3 400 Service ManualPiaggio MP3 400 ie MIC 2009 Genuine Spare PartsPIAGGIO MP3 400ie User Manual

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.reddit.com/r/scooters/comments/3d1r2j/help_please_piaggio_typhoon_wont_startMoped Scooter Won Start How to fix and get going again DIYPiaggio Typhoon 50 ENhttps://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=2627http://www.bellamoto.rs/upl/files/Typhoon%2050%20UPUTSTVO.pdf