Good brews, good views

They may look quaint, but Vermont breweries take their beers seriously

April 10, 2012|By Keith Chapman, Special to Tribune Newspapers

At Magic Hat Brewery in Burlington, Vt., Orville Ball takes cases of beer off of an assembly line in the factory. (Janet Knott/The Boston Globe via Getty Images)

For a state that ranks 49th in total population — and maybe because of it — Vermont sure knows its beer. Vermont ranks first in the number of breweries per capita among U.S. states, according to the Brewers Association. And while the state doesn't play host to the big boys, Vermont makes up for it by producing quality craft beers at dedicated breweries, seemingly in every quaint New England village.

Here are five breweries worth a visit:

Harpoon Brewery in Windsor: Like many sleepy Vermont towns in the Connecticut River Valley, Windsor is home to a small but historic downtown founded before the United States was even formed. Just outside of town is a new establishment that promises to become a mainstay: Harpoon Brewery. Founded in Boston, Harpoon built a separate (now larger) facility in Windsor in 2000. The state-of-the art brewery features a dining room with a wood-burning fireplace and views of the rolling countryside. For $5, you get a glass, a guided tour and unlimited beer sampling at the tour's conclusion. During the tour, visitors can taste the beer at various stages of the brewing process — our leader even let us chew on the raw barley and sip on beer before it had been carbonated. Harpoon is known for its classic India pale ale, as well as its UFO (Unfiltered Offering). harpoonbrewery.com

Long Trail Brewing Co. in Bridgewater Corners: From the moment you walk in, you notice that Long Trail Brewing has a more backwoods feel to it. The tour of the brewing room is free and self-guided — a walking bridge runs above the facility. The main room has a large moose head on the wall, a cast-iron fireplace and a display of hundreds of old beer cans. The small restaurant serves hearty fare and has an expansive wooden deck that overlooks the rocky Ottauquechee River. Long Trail is quintessentially Vermont in its strong link to the outdoors and has developed its ECO (Environmentally Conscious Operations) brew method, which includes minimizing water usage, offering spent mash to feed Vermont cattle and supporting local dairy farms. Its mainstay ale is a quality brew, and the unique Blackberry Harvest merits trying. Seasonal offerings are also quite popular, particularly the Hibernator Scottish ale, which helps keep Vermonters warm on cold winter nights. longtrail.com

Switchback Brewing Co. in Burlington: Switchback is in an industrial warehouse you could easily mistake for a trucking facility. This is a brewery first and foremost; tours are offered only on Saturdays. And for good reason: Switchback has become wildly popular since opening in 2002, distributing its beer, in kegs only, to Vermont, New Hampshire and some parts of New York and Maine. In fact, it is difficult to find anything other than its ale outside of Burlington, though they do offer a porter and the occasional seasonal. "Our marketing is not that savvy," brewer Gretchen Langfeldt says. "We just are conscious of doing it our way." Switchback employees claim that the best beers come from kegs, and they aren't willing to bottle until they are confident they can do it correctly. They tentatively plan to start bottling in 2013. As for all the hard work? Well, it seems to pay off: Switchback was the best beer I sampled. 802-651-4114.

Magic Hat Brewing Co. in South Burlington: Magic Hat feels like the polar opposite of Switchback: The quirky brewery wholly resembles something out of "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory." Walk in and you are greeted by house music and dark lights; the place feels like a cross between something from "Back to the Future" and an underground dance party. But step up to the bar for four free samples, and you are greeted by friendly, hip staffers who clearly know beer. The brews on tap reflect the widespread quirkiness, from Ravell Vanilla stout to its flagship No. 9 beer, which is described as "not quite pale ale" and a "beer cloaked in secrecy." The Encore India pale ale is not to be missed — the beer has the right balance of hoppiness and smooth citrus flavor. There are free guided tours, as well as self-guided ones, of its more normal-looking brewing facility. And yet, for all its idiosyncrasies, Magic Hat is one of the most popular microbreweries. magichat.net