I am planning a batch off the little strobe below. But i need to know if there is anyone interested in such a device before i order all the parts that i need.It is not my intension to make a commercial product!Please send me a mail if so. (triggerfish@telenet.be) I will keep you informed then about the progress off the first batch. (also designed the triggerfish).Price would be prox. 70 euro. So if i get a enough response i will make a batch. 3 WP-members are testing the strobe as we speak.

Specs:up controlled, supply 2x CR2032, low battery warning, hot-shoe with spring contact,goes to sleep so no battery consumption when not used (battery's can stay in)red LEDS, (2 cd/led), can be bent to the fibbers, those not needed can be cut off, frame rate 10 fs.Works only manual with all DSLR camera’s Nikon and Canon. Delivered in a little plastic box. Also be aware that there is enough space above your camera.

I think one of the best uses for a gadget like this is for cameras that don't have a built in flash (such as the 5D Mk2 or new D4). So that you could use fibre synched strobes with them. Of course this would only be possible of housing manufacturers provided the optical connectors on the housing.
In fact it would be most sensible if the housing manufacturers ordered a batch of these from you - and then supplied them with their housings (for non-built in flash cameras) and then could also build in optical synch ports as standard too.

I have a 7D. I was thinking that the internal camera battery can get drained fairly quickly when the integral flash is used for every shot. I'd think that this device would allow me to use the camera with the flash-down to save the camera battery and eliminate the recharge time of the internal flash. What do you think? Is there a recharge/recycle time for this micro strobe? How long will the batteries last?

I have a 7D. I was thinking that the internal camera battery can get drained fairly quickly when the integral flash is used for every shot. I'd think that this device would allow me to use the camera with the flash-down to save the camera battery and eliminate the recharge time of the internal flash. What do you think? Is there a recharge/recycle time for this micro strobe? How long will the batteries last?

Just switch your internal flash to manual and go down to the minimum power level. Gets you about 3fps according to Gudge, which will outpace most optical strobes.

I just received mine and it works fine for Inon strobes but not at all (even directly coupled to the fiber) with S&S strobes. Any ideas (maybe white LEDs or ones with more power).

Bill

Hi Bill,the YS250 and YS110 works fine with one led at 100mm distance! You are sure the slave knob is "on" so the optical sensor is active?The Inons don't have this knob, just a cap to put the sensor in the dark.

It is also very important that the leds are in a straight line with the fiber that is brought trough the housing! If you have a angle between led and fiber it wont work.Nauticam uses mirrors to solve that problem with the housings where the fibers go trough the housing at the top and not at the front (in straight line)

Hi Bill,the YS250 and YS110 works fine with one led at 100mm distance! You are sure the slave knob is "on" so the optical sensor is active?The Inons don't have this knob, just a cap to put the sensor in the dark.

It is also very important that the leds are in a straight line with the fiber that is brought trough the housing! If you have a angle between led and fiber it wont work.Nauticam uses mirrors to solve that problem with the housings where the fibers go trough the housing at the top and not at the front (in straight line)

Hedwig.

No happiness with any LED placement that I can figure out. The internal camera strobe fires the S&S strobes (YS01 and 110a) and the miniled fires the Inons but nothing so far for the S&S.Any ideas greatly appreciated. This is in a Nauticam housing (7D) and the LEDs are pointing straight at the prism in the housing best I can tell.Bill

I was looking at getting the 5d mk iii, until I discovered it lacks an on camera flash. I'm personally too in love with F/o sync. So if nauticam will make an option for F/O this is exactly what I need!!

No happiness with any LED placement that I can figure out. The internal camera strobe fires the S&S strobes (YS01 and 110a) and the miniled fires the Inons but nothing so far for the S&S.Any ideas greatly appreciated. This is in a Nauticam housing (7D) and the LEDs are pointing straight at the prism in the housing best I can tell.Bill

Hi Bill, leds with a bigger angle have been sent to you. I think when the prism is lighted over larger area the fiber will receive more light for the Sea&Sea's ti trigger.

Hi Bill, leds with a bigger angle have been sent to you. I think when the prism is lighted over larger area the fiber will receive more light for the Sea&Sea's ti trigger.

An update is in order. Hedwig has been very helpful in getting this to work. With the Inon strobes there is no problem at all the S2000 and the Z240 all trigger perfectly with the LED trigger. The S&S require a lot more light and the spacing on the board that Hedwig made has the two LED exactly at an inappropriate spacing. Getting LEDs with the same power but a larger viewing angle and putting the LED right on top of the Nauticam prism has solved the problem. It is a bit fiddly to get aligned right but now is working rather well. We did 2 dives last weekend with it and I am taking it to PNG in two weeks. Pictures from the dives soon.

An update is in order. Hedwig has been very helpful in getting this to work. With the Inon strobes there is no problem at all the S2000 and the Z240 all trigger perfectly with the LED trigger. The S&S require a lot more light and the spacing on the board that Hedwig made has the two LED exactly at an inappropriate spacing. Getting LEDs with the same power but a larger viewing angle and putting the LED right on top of the Nauticam prism has solved the problem. It is a bit fiddly to get aligned right but now is working rather well. We did 2 dives last weekend with it and I am taking it to PNG in two weeks. Pictures from the dives soon.Bill

I confirm that it is not easy to use the mini led strobe with the mirrors used in several housings. If you can hit the fiber directly, it works OK.Also the fiber cables from Sea&Sea use already 2 mirrors inside. So, the amount of led light is reduced by that.Inon cables don't have that problem and the strobes sensor is more sensible than the Sea&Sea strobes.It is not possible to find leds (5mm) that have a larger output then 8cd by 15°.grtz, Hedwig.

Could you expand on the S&S cables please, what do you mean by mirrors in the cables?

My experience is also that YS110 is a bit insensitive. I've also built a mini strobe , and alignment is really important. Actually in the end it worked better than the cameraflash? I used a laser to get all power in the right spot, but have since used LED with equal success. Note that you can overdrive the current through the LED a lot because of the short duration of the flash. Key is not to widen the LED output, but to align with the fibre properly.

I also attributed some of my sensitivity problem to the version, YS110 not alpha seemed to have some trigger issues prompting the version upgrade. But yor experience seem to indicate it's still the case.

Cheers/O

I confirm that it is not easy to use the mini led strobe with the mirrors used in several housings. If you can hit the fiber directly, it works OK.Also the fiber cables from Sea&Sea use already 2 mirrors inside. So, the amount of led light is reduced by that.Inon cables don't have that problem and the strobes sensor is more sensible than the Sea&Sea strobes.It is not possible to find leds (5mm) that have a larger output then 8cd by 15°.grtz, Hedwig.