Until recently, travelers to Philadelphia were more likely to visit the Liberty Bell or the Rocky statue at the Philadelphia Museum of Art than they were to check out a buzzy new restaurant or gallery. But times have changed: Restaurateurs Michael Solomonov, Jose Garces, and Greg Vernick have revitalized the city’s dining scene; and in neighborhoods like Fishtown, Northern Liberties, and West Philadelphia, galleries and other creative ventures are proliferating. This historic city has a whole new feel—and we keep going back.

CHECKING IN

Kimpton Hotel Monaco Philadelphia, part of the Kimpton group of boutique inns, couldn’t be more perfectly placed: It’s in the middle of the city’s historic center, with some suites overlooking Independence Hall. Rooms are cozy but not stodgy, with charming toile wallpaper, über-comfortable mattresses, and C.O. Bigelow toiletries; and, as with other Kimpton properties, there’s a nightly happy hour so you can mingle with your fellow guests.

Hotel Monaco

DAY 1: OLD CITY, CENTER CITY, AND SOUTH PHILADELPHIA

Philadelphia’s best-known landmarks—Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, the house where Thomas Jefferson drafted the Declaration of Independence—are at the heart of Old City, a historic quarter that’s also home to some of the city’s best shopping and prettiest streets.

High Street on Market, even the most carb-phobic of diners tear into excellent house-made baked goods. For a heartier morning meal, order one of the delicious breakfast sandwiches (served on a poppy-seed–dusted kaiser roll); we can't resist the Forager, loaded with fluffy scrambled eggs, sauteed kale and mushrooms, and swiss cheese.

A breakfast sandwich at High Street on Market.

Courtesy High Street on Market

Seek out vintage wares and indie boutiques

North 3rd Street is one of Philadelphia’s best shopping districts, packed with quirky vintage shops and indie boutiques. Some of our favorites: Scout Salvage and Vintage Rescue for fun tchotchkes (like 1980s glasses printed with the Smurfs or Garfield); Vagabond for women’s clothing from designers like Loup and Rachel Comey; and Art in the Age for the shop’s own line of spirits, along with a Warby Parker showroom and cool accessories from brands like Three Potato Four and The Hill-Side.

Pay homage to the America’s earliest days

Much of the nation’s early history was written in Old City, and even a quick stroll through the neighborhood turns up landmarks in unexpected places. You can’t miss the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall in

Independence National Historic Park, but wandering through the neighborhood will also lead you down some beautiful, narrow lanes lined with stories from the past, including Church Street, home to the 17th-century Christ Church (Ben Franklin and George Washington were regulars), or

Elfreth's Alley, a stone-lined pedestrian waylined with homes built in the 18th century. (And yes, people still live there—it’s catnip for history nerds and real estate junkies.)

Elfreth’s Alley

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Take a walk—or sit in a hammock—by the waterfront

The Delaware River Waterfront has long been popular with visitors, thanks to its scenic views and family-friendly attractions like the Independence Seaport Museum. But thanks to the addition of the seasonal

Spruce Street Harbor Park (which debuted in 2014), both locals and tourists are rolling on the river—in droves. And it’s easy to see why: There’s no shortage of things to see, including pop-up flea markets, LED art installations, and yes, plenty of hammocks for lounging. Hungry? There are stands from Philly restaurateurs like Jose Garces (who has a taco truck, a hot dog stand, and a Chinese fusion spot here), and the folks behind beloved fried chicken chain Federal Donuts.

Dine on authentic modern Israeli food…in South Philly

Speaking of Federal Donuts, Michael Solomonov, the proprietor of that cult classic—along with many of the city’s buzziest restaurants, including the new Abe Fisher and Dizengoff—started his mini-empire with

Zahav, a hip Israeli restaurant near the waterfront. Seven years after it opened, it’s still serving a bevy of flavorful small plates, including downright addictive hummus (try the Tehina, topped with cumin, lemon, and parsley) and luscious beef-and-lamb kofte. Pair your selection with a cocktail, or a glass of wine from a list that includes Turkish and Sicilian varieties.

Khyber Pass Pub might not look like much; but inside, you’ll find a homey neighborhood bar (it was once a punk-rock venue), with an excellent craft beer list stacked with local options from Nodding Head Brewery, Yards, and Tired Hands in nearby Ardmore.

DAY 2: Fishtown, Kensington, and Northern Liberties

The city’s once-gritty northeast corner has, in recent years, experienced a wave of gentrification similar to that in New York City’s Bushwick neighborhood: Artists and other creatives are drawn in by inexpensive real estate, and restaurateurs, boutique owners, and tourists follow. In Philly’s case, this means plenty of new drinking and dining options joining stalwarts in the neighborhoods of Northern Liberties, Fishtown, and Kensington.

Sulimay’s Restaurant serves the kind of retro diner classics—creamed chipped beef on toast, pancakes, eggs and scrapple—that are rarely seen on higher-end brunch menus. These comfort-food staples are accompanied by coffee (drip or french press), and a healthy dose of gossip from the neighborhood locals, many of whom have been coming for as long as the restaurant has been open.

Hang out with art (and artists)

Fishtown and Kensington are known as two of Philadelphia’s two artsiest neighborhoods, with galleries and festivals celebrating its cultural community all year long. The Frankford Avenue corridor is home to several of these; wander off the main drag and you’ll find spaces like the Icebox Project Space, part of the larger Crane Arts complex. Street-art spotters will also find plenty to love in Fishtown, including John Boyce’s sculptures and Steve Powers’s mural on Master Street, painted for the cover of indie-rocker Kurt Vile’s 2013 album Wakin On a Pretty Daze.

Sample the fruits of Philly’s booming craft beer scene

Go to any bar or restaurant in Philadelphia and you’re like to find something from the

Philadelphia Brewing Company on the menu. But you can also try the brews at their source: a warehouse on Frankford Avenue, where PBC creates beers like the delicately hopped Pennsylvania Pale Ale, or the refreshing Kenzinger. PBC offers tours and tastings on the weekends in its cavernous tap room.

Wait (and wait) for some of the best pizza in the U.S.

on East Girard Street has deservedly been racking up accolades lately—Bon Appetit named it the best pizza in the country—which has made it even more difficult to score one of owner Joe Beddia’s superlative pies. (People have been lining up hours before the pizzeria opens at 5:30 p.m.) If you miss out, head up Frankford Avenue to

Standard Tap, which opened in 1999 and claims that it was America’s first gastropub. And whether that’s true or not, the restaurant has remained a local favorite thanks to its fantastic beer selection—there are 20 taps, all of which are devoted to local breweries—and its elevated pub grub, made using locally sourced seafood, vegetables, and produce.

Standard Tap

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DAY 3: Museum hopping

Philadelphia's historic side has been well trod at this point in the weekend, but the city is also a destination for art lovers—with multiple world-class institutions within walking distance of each other in Fairmount. An hour or two at each museum will leave culture vultures sated for months to come.

Spread Bagelry : You can get the chewy, dense treat (which are boiled in honey water, then baked) topped with spread speckled with bits of nova salmon or roasted garlic. Grab a cup of La Colombe coffee and take your breakfast to go; Rittenhouse Square is only a few blocks away, and an excellent place to dine al fresco on a warm day.

Wander down the "cultural boulevard"

The

is rightfully considered one of the best museums in the U.S., but it’s not the only arts institution worth a visit. Just a short stroll down Benjamin Franklin Parkway is the

Buena Onda focusing on the signature dish of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula: fried fish tacos. Garces’s version comes three ways (with mahi mahi, shrimp, or the catch of the day), while carnitas, chicken, and beef varieties are available for the the fish-averse.

Mütter Museum of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia, a collection of curiosities—medical and otherwise—housed in a gorgeous Beaux Arts building. It may sound creepy at first, but after seeing bits of Albert Einstein’s brain (preserved under glass, of course), or the tallest human skeleton in America, you’ll have a new appreciation for the inner workings of the human body. (And the people tasked with caring for them.)

Mütter Museum

Courtesy Mütter Museum

Hide away in a secret cocktail bar

After the Mütter, you’ll almost certainly need a cocktail. Deep in Philly’s Chinatown, you’ll find

Hop Sing Laundromat —but only if you know where to look (find the metal gated doorway on Race Street) and if you’re dressed properly (so, dress to impress). Once inside, you’ll sample some of the city’s best drinks, all overseen by an enigmatic owner named Lê, whose presence adds to the cloistered, secretive feel of the dark, narrow room.

A Trip Unto Itself

End your Philly jaunt in one of the city's up-and-coming districts: The Navy Yard, located at the southernmost end of the city, has become a commercial hub (TastyKakes and Urban Outfitters are headquartered there), as well as a dining destination. Restaurateur Marc Vetri chose it as the site of his latest spot,

Lo Spiedo, focusing on Italian-inflected dishes cooked over a wood-fired grill. Start with the delectable polenta cornbread with meat drippings, and move on to the grilled tilefish or chicken breast. In warmer months, there's an outdoor patio with water views; it's especially nice while sipping on a well-crafted cocktail, maybe a paloma riff with grapefruit granita and prosecco, in the late-day sun.