Chuckles. yea. but i always like to get some kind of confirmation before spending money. especially with electronics that cannot be returned. Tho, i wouldnt mind grabbing another one of these as a backup. never know when itl wig out.

i did experience a new area of repair however. in the past with plow equipment when a relay goes bad, its pretty obvious and requires little testing (ooooold plow). ill admit this issue was perplexing to me. never had something go out and still put out voltage.

ill read the thread over again and learn how to do a drop test properly, esspicialy having a bad relay to test with. next time this kind of fix will only take 5 - 30 minutes. not several days.

Glad you got it hashed out.The info posted in this thread is worth a good re- read.I hope it helps someone in the future.

See slapper theres alittle more then a couple marbles rollin around up in that wiltle head of mine

I hear you Normie....
Thanx for hangin in there and lending some of that experience with the regular folks..
You explained the circuitry on those relays good enuf to write a book...Ya walked him right thru it...

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Just to follow up on testing relays...as well as solenoids and switches...
Checking continuity is not good enough....you have to check them for voltage...under load...
I used to check relays by touching the relay when I turned the key...to feel the relay click..its hit and miss..
Many relays and solenoids click but fail to make the circuit....use a voltmeter....
Thanx again Normie.....good info...

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If You Have All The Answers...Except The One You Need...You're Not Trying Hard Enough...
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Also like you mentioned don't rely on the CLICK test on relays.Just so the lay person can understand the CLICK is actually the coil pulling the contacts (in) and this usually turns on the power circuit .What happens over time from the contacts being cycled ,the contactor tips (which reside inside the relay) get pitted or burnt up.They still can be turned on and off (CLICK) but the burnt pads will not pass enough current to actually turn on the accessory they are intended to turn on.

I'm going to try to explain voltage drop hope I make sense to you.

To read voltage you need both + and - potential to actually read it

Lets use a relay for example for voltage drop test

terminal 87 has the + multi meter lead on wire
terminal 30 has - multi meter lead in place

With the relay in (off) position and multimeter on voltage you should see 12v between 87/30 because 12v coming into 87 from battery + side and 30 is wired say through the clutch back to (battery -) so right now 30 is neg( -) potential .

so 12v + on one side (-) through the clutch on other so theres a 12v potential difference =meter reads 12v

NOW

Turn the relay on and 12v from 87 side jumps to 30 side through contactor and feeds clutch 12v and clutch turns on.

Your meter leads are still hooked up like before (+) on 87 and (-) on 30 this time your meter read (.1 )volt. Why you ask well what happened was you lost the (neg) potential on 30 when the contactor was turned on and now 30 turns to +12v just like 87.Thus feeding the clutch power.

Well why the (.1)reading and not zero ? Do to loss from heat and from natural voltage drop loss through wiring and connections (very small amount which is normal) there was a (.1)volt loss through the relay itself remember the meter leads are still on 87/30.What that means is 87 is seeing 12v and the (+) output from 30 would be 11.99v .Making any sense yet?

Say that turned on relay had a 4volt voltage drop accross it.You would see 12v on 87 but on 30 you would read 8v to clutch and clutch wouldn't turn on .

You can test every component this way and is the best way because your actually testing under load.Also same test works on wiring as well.

Hey slapper check out meter leads called the Load Pro.They are a must have !!!!!!!!