Myanmar – Romancing The Irrawaddy

A cruise isn’t mandatory for a Myanmar itinerary. Most central Burmese attractions are easily accessed from Mandalay or Bagan by road or public ferry. But there is something about a river cruise, about floating lazily on an ancient body of water while witnessing life unfold along its banks, that is intimate and immersive. We had experienced the magic on the Nile, and the Irrawaddy, with its pagoda studded banks, was possibly even more enchanting.

A boat cruise, unlike large ocean cruises, is about getting to know the land. Excursions began early, most times divided into two shifts interspersed with a leisurely lunch. The 52 people on board the Irrawaddy Explorer, were divided into three small groups and the order of visits staggered so cruise mates didn’t bump into each other at every stop. The group excursions took some getting used to, after so many years of independent travel. But I soon became adept at avoiding inadvertent photo bombers and finding my own space during each visit.

It was remarkable how easy it was to fall into the slow rhythm of that schedule. The extremely talented chef and the free flowing beer, additionally helped lull us into a soporific state. That internet was practically non existent was actually a plus. We resolved to try to stick to the ‘early to bed, early to rise’ schedule when we returned, but that went out of the window as soon as we fully reconnected with the World Wide Web.

From the sun deck

Sun deck

One of many divine seafood dinners!

The spacious cabin. (Bed reflected in closet mirror)

Our (cruise) itinerary traced the evolution of Burmese history – and their royals’ penchant for building and abandoning capital cities in reverse*. From Mandalay, the last capital where the monarchy met its ignominious end, all the way to the ancient Pyu city state of Sri Ksetra: the birthplace of the Tibeto Burman race, as well as the Bagan (Pagan) kingdom.

Mandalay felt like the Mumbai of Myanmar. Crowded and edgy. Its principal monument, King Thibaw’s famed Glass Palace, a newish reconstruction and currently occupied by the army. The only major original structure from the complex to have survived Allied bombing during World War II, is the ornately carved Shwenandaw pagoda, itself dismantled from Thibaw’s father’s palace in Amarapura and re-erected here for use as a monastery.

The impressive 13 ft tall seated Buddha in the Mahamuni Paya, whose body has accumulated a 6″ layer of solid gold from centuries of votive gold leaf applications! That the proportions aren’t too off, is believed to be a miracle and the reason why this is referred to as the ‘Living Buddha!

The exquisite teakwood monastery is encrusted with carvings depicting characters and stories from the Jataka Tales.

A few of the 729 shrines that house the incribed stone tablets that comprise the ‘World’s Largest Book’.

The 1.2km teakwood footbridge that spans Taungthaman Lake near Amarapura. It is believed to be the oldest and the longest such bridge in the world.

The Mahamuni pagoda with its 13ft tall gold leaf encrusted Buddha, and the Kuthodaw pagoda that holds the largest book in the world, are both important pilgrimage spots and great places for people watching. It was a bit of a let down though to discover that the ‘book’, although impressive, was a series of large inscribed stone ‘pages’ in individual shrines and not the giant book I had envisaged. Our rather packed first day ended spectacularly on a sampan in Amarapura, just in time to watch the sun slip behind Ubein bridge: the longest teak wood foot bridge in the world. I would have loved to have had the opportunity to walk across it at dawn.

We stopped a while at the Settawaya Paya (Stupa) on the edge of the riverbank on our stroll through the erstwhile royal residence of Mingun next morning, before continuing on to the circular Hsinbyume Paya. I was half hoping to spot playful young novice monks cavorting over the wavy white terraces of the latter like I had seen in glossy photo spreads online. I discovered much later that those ‘professional’ galleries routinely use paid models!

Charming public transport in Mingun.

The sinuous white washed terraces of the Hsinbyume Paya.

A monk offers prayers at he gigantic Mingun Bell.

Panoramic view from the sun deck of the brilliant white Settawaya Paya juxtaposed against the unfinished Mingun Paya.

Mingun’s claim to fame is the enormous 18th century unfinished stupa – the Mingun Paya – that was meant to rival the pyramids of Giza as the largest structure on the planet. It was abandoned when only one third complete, based on a prophesy – possibly concocted by ministers appalled at the extravagance – that its completion would lead to king Bodhawpaya’s demise.Then there is the Mingun bell. Also gigantic.And the remnants of what were once the formidable guardian dragon/lions (Chinte) of the mega Paya.

That afternoon, each couple was bundled into horse carts for a bone rattling convoy into Ava (Innwa), evocative of its 360 year imperial history. The key attractions here are the exquisite teak Bagaye monastery and the unusual (for the time), masonry monastery of Maha Aungmye Bonzan, built also uncommonly, by the queen.

Horse carriages at the ready…

Entry gate to the Maha Aungmye Bonzan

Carved door and window frames of the Bagaye monastery

An idyllic Ava landscape.

Over the ensuing week, we explored the Hpowindaung caves near Monywa with innumerable Buddhas in varying sizes and postures; the rather garish and Disneyfied (in 1939) but ever so popular 13CE Thanboddhay Pagoda with Buddhas in the thousands; the amazing stupa fields of Bagan (over two days) including a drive to Tan Kyi for panoramic views over the Bagan plains; colonial buildings and the intricately carved wooden Youqson KyaungTaw Gyi (a replica of the Crown Prince house in Mandalay) in Salay; the Mya Tha Lun pagoda in Magwe; the 5CE walls and gates of the UNESCO listed Pyu capital of Sri Ksetra, the ancient and unadorned Phayagyi: one of three earliest surviving stupas in the country, and in nearby Pyay the glittering Shwesandaw pagoda nearly as grand as the Shwedagon in Yangon.

Yes, a bit of a pagoda overload! Perhaps more than a bit:) But there were delightful village walks, visits to markets and schools, topical lectures and cookery demonstrations (I won myself a beautiful Longyi for my skill in tossing tea leaf salad!) in between, to ward off pagoda fatigue. And on this particular sailing, even an impromptu New Year’s eve ‘beach’ party complete with fireworks!

An enormous sleeping Buddha and overhead frescoes in one of the cave shrines at the Hpowindaung caves near Monywa

At the potters village of Yandabo

The ornate teakwood Youqson Kyaung in Salay that is a replica of the ‘Crown Prince House’ in Mandalay.

Phayagyi in the ancient capital of Sri Ksetra is one of three oldest surviving stupas in the country. (And no, that isn’t a paid model! :/)

Lahpet Thoke (Tea Leaf Salad) making demo and tasting in the Writer’s Lounge on the Irrawaddy Explorer.

Radiant pagodas in Bagan.

The boat itself was lovely. The cabins surprisingly spacious and well appointed and with ample seating and enough power sockets to charge all our electronics and cameras at one go. The floor length and wall to wall glass windows through which we witnessed some brilliant sunrises right from our bed, was my favourite feature. As well as the comfortable sun deck, to which we decamped at every opportunity and from where we had our ringside view to the goings on around the river.

The exceptionally friendly and helpful staff deserve particular mention. Especially the sweet Mr Thong, who accompanied us on every excursion, handed out wipes to clean our feet at the end of every temple visit, and generally ensured our comfort and well being in the gentlest manner possible. Apart from Steven Stubblefield, the American cruise director, they were all young local Burmese, wholly dependent on tourism for their livelihoods. Their farewell message on our final night aboard, was a telling request to share the beauty of their country and of the beautiful river that bisects it. “We need your help, now more than ever.”

*The upstream itinerary from Yangon to Mandalay does it oldest first.

Disclaimer: We availed generous press discounts for the cruise portion of our trip from Haimark Travel.

Update: As of April 2016, Haimark Travel has declared bankruptcy and terminated all operations. The Irrawaddy Explorer is now being marketed by Ayravata Cruises.

I had no idea. Thought the Mississippi was a large river. The irrawaddy was shallow at parts, so navigating all the way to Yangon was an issue. We had to do the last stretch from Pyay by coach. The levels apparently rise dramatically soon after the monsoons. Must be an amazing sight, although not for those living on the banks.

Indeed. I can’t seem to get it out of my system! 🙂 Time and price are huge constraints, otherwise a cruise would be the best option. It slowed things down so we got to experience the villages and markets in a more unhurried manner than we would have on day trips.

I’ve never been on a cruise. The ones on the ocean scare me. But your description of a river cruise sounds delightful. A leisurely-paced trip with a ride on a horsecart to boot. The sights along the way, with the culture and history included, are a real treat. Wonderful! 😉

I haven’t been on a regular cruise either Judy. I would be bored to death! 🙂 The only other time we were on a boat for longer than a day was on the four night Nile cruise. Both were equally enjoyable experiences.

We have only ever been on the Nile cruise before Jeff and loved it as well. The best thing about a river cruise is the minimal sailing time. They rarely ever sail at night.

Over all I thought the excursions were well planned. Bagan was the biggest destination en-route and we were docked there for three nights and two full days in which we managed a fair number of temples. Craft workshop visits were unavoidable, though most considered it a welcome break from the pagodas. On hindsight we should have explored one of the two days on our own. We were free to return at midday and after dinner if we wanted to.

You visit stunning and legendary places: the Irrawaddy features in my imaginative map from childhood. And you write about them and photograph them so enticingly. Thank you for letting me be your virtual travelling companion.

You’re so lucky with the weather, Madhu! On our two-week stay in Myanmar, not a single day in Mandalay was a sunny day. It was always rainy and gloomy. I really wanted to visit Mingun Paya and Hsinbyume Paya (I didn’t know about the paid models!), but because of the weather we decided to save them for our future trip — as well as U Bein bridge. Glad to see those beautiful images of Mandalay and the surrounding regions, and well done for the tea leaf salad! 🙂

Yes, we really lucked out with weather. Dec/ Jan is probably the best time to visit Bama. Mingun and Ava were both beautiful. I regretted missing Sagaing. You can’t possibly do everything in one shot. As for the tea leaf salad contest, my delight was tempered by the fact that my only competitor hadn’t cooked before!:)

Get me to that boat immediately! 🙂 🙂 The romance of it all has quite gone to my head and some of your images are so alluring.
I’m teetering at the minute, Madhu. I’ve always gone to the Algarve without benefit of t’Internet, and I love the switch off from the world, but this time our new neighbours had Wifi and we had the use of it 😦 On the occasional evening at home it had it’s uses.

Radiant pagodas view is mind-blowing. How many are there? They kind of look like mushrooms after the rain. This is a different look of your page. (I have been away for too long), very different, but lovely.

Madhu…another marvelous post. I’m jealous you get to “avail” yourself of discounts on things like boat trips. I’m so glad you posted this, because I’m planning a trip to Myanmar next month and I thought ddoing a boat trip would be cool. I’m hoping there are shorter trips, and I’m also hoping I don’t have to take a tour. When I went down the Nile, I simply left the tour guide and wandered about the ruins on my own. Is the photo of the “radiant pagodas” of Bagan taken from Tan Kyi?

No, the sunset view is from lvl four of Shwesandaw pagoda. I think the ban on climbing the pagoda has been repealed, but cross check your options with your hotel. Be warned, it is jam packed with sun worshippers usually. Any that isn’t might score on the atmosphere, but will not have quite the same view. (The reason my dawn photos do not have balloons soaring over the main cluster of pagodas. It was magical nevertheless.)

Madhu, it’s clear that you saw much more of Myanmar than Bama and I did on our trip. The places you visited between Mandalay and Yangon sound so enticing – I imagine the Pyu capital did not attract the same number of crowds as Bagan and Inle Lake. As Bama mentioned, our lucky streak with the weather ended in Mandalay and we spent much of that time stuck indoors. It looks like we’ll have to embark on a similar river cruise the next time we go!