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Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.

Description

Kitchen Sink is a perfect name for this route as you'll encounter everything from tips to offwidth by the time you get to the anchor. Start by stemming up two parallel offset cracks with good finger locks and gear in the left crack. Take advantage of a rest ledge to the right if you want and then continue up a fist crack behind a flake. There is also a tips crack that leads straight up from the ledge and merges with the fist crack after about 10' but it looked harder.

A short easy offwidth section leads to a final tight right facing corner. A blue alien size crack and occational openings in the corner provide adequate places for pro but this might be the mental crux for some.

Location

This route is just left of Charlie's Pillar and starts up parallel offset cracks, the left is big enough for fingers and the right is more of a seam.

Protection

Bring two each from Blue Aliens to #4 Camalots with an extra .4 Camalot. There are two bolts at the anchor but the upper bolt could use a 1' length of chain.

superb route and perfectly named, as mentioned above. steven's rack suggestion looks pretty bold. i would recommend a bunch of pieces in the thin fingers to fingers sizes. it seems like there is always a finger crack available. pretty long route that is fairly strenuous, despite having a lot of rests.
Apr 1, 2013

Awesome route, but I would recommend triples of .3-.5 Camelot, 2 little purple metolius, 1 #2 & #3 cam, & maybe a #4 cam. The small gear is easier to place than the #4's. I would say that anything bigger than a #3 cam is optional if you carry the little gear. Physical route, & fun
Oct 15, 2014