New Mac's Embers

Dishes Out Nostalgia,

Calories On A Bun

Can a restaurant with a high-fat, high-cholesterol menu survive among diet-conscious patrons in Boca Raton?

A new restaurant, Mac's Embers, is finding out.

"We're a high-class, glitzy hot dog joint," said Jeff Sussman, who gutted and rebuilt a former family-style restaurant on North Federal Highway, calling it Mac's Embers.

The restaurant is, in fact, son of Mac's Embers, which opened in 1957 in Long Branch, N.J., and was sold in 1970. Jeff Sussman is son of Seymour Sussman, owner of the original Mac's Embers.

"I took all the things I remembered about the restaurant and I put it into a new Mac's Embers," Sussman said. "This is my theater, my stage. I took the style of a coffee shop and diner and gave it an old-fashioned look.

"There's an energy here, a closeness of people, an open kitchen where you hear all the noise. It's a fun atmosphere."

Mac's Embers sports Burl Formica on the walls, an art deco look, and forest green table tops, bar stools and booths. Linen napkins are a surprise touch, next to the 1-gallon pump jar of Gulden's mustard, the pail of sauerkraut and the stainless steel bowl of half-sour pickles.

Although the restaurant stays busy during dinner hours, lunch is the biggest trade for Sussman. "We get approximately 400 customers a day," he said.

"It's a special pork and beef blend with smoked spices. The natural casing is so thin, it allows the ingredients inside the casing to cook. It has a snap of flavor to it," Sussman said.

Sussman serves a lot of nostalgic fare - his famous roast beef sandwich with natural gravy or schmaltz, Lime Rickees, frosted root beer floats, milk shakes and malts, and his classic New York chocolate egg creams made with Fox's U-Bet syrup, and served in a 24 oz. Coca-Cola glass.

The least caloric item is probably the Ultimate Charbroiled Chicken Sandwich - if you request that the sauteed onions, peppers, mushrooms and cheese be eliminated from the boneless chicken breast.

Sussman is convinced that not everybody calculates fat grams.

"Not everyone wants to eat a salad with sprouts," he said. "When I evaluated the marketplace, I knew my concept would work. The time is right for a place like mine."

Sussman said Mac's Embers appeals to a younger clientele willing to pay the price in exchange for presentation and quality, and it appeals to an older clientele for nostalgic reasons. He prides himself on his fresh-made, fresh-baked, oversized portions. Sussman is projecting annual gross revenue of $1 million, and plans to sell Mac's Embers franchises.

Sussman's employees never know when he will show up. That keeps them on their toes. He, his wife and two sons constantly monitor the goings-on because of their concern for the restaurant's cleanliness and the customers' satisfaction.

"They needed a '50s-type place like this in Boca," said Drew Farrell, a musician who eats at Mac's Embers at least once a week. "They really make you feel welcome here."