OK, I know I have asked similar/same Q in past but given your experience above I am going to be bold and ask anyway. What jet size(s) did you use and did you do any intake or exhaust mods? Did you do the pilot screw adjustment or shim the jet needle also? Opinions on these are all over the place, some earlier posts in this thread indicate the bike becomes un-rideable with even only pilot jet up one size to 42.5. Other posts indicate that larger jet(s) prevent proper atomization of fuel, some even used smaller than stock main jets when opening the intake and exhaust flow (that one certainly doesn’t make any sense). I plan on working on the carb today or tomorrow and for sure will do the pilot screw adjustment but keep going back and forth about jet changes. I bought one size larger main and pilot jets for an ‘06 and the bike will be ridden from essentially sea level to maybe 6,000 to 8,000 elevations so I would greatly value your opinion. I don’t plan on doing the exhaust or snorkel mods or drilling the air box. At most I will change the filter element to a unifilter but I doubt that that makes much difference compared to stock.

After reading several posts regarding carb mods over on XT225.com, I went with a 42.5 pilot and 130 main. One washer shim under the needle jet, and 2.5 turns out on the pilot screw worked best on my bike. These mods made all the difference in the world to my bike - it runs cooler and doesn't backfire nearly as much when I back off the throttle. Runs great at all altitudes and in all rpm ranges. it might be my imagination but now when I use my 16t countershaft sprocket it seems like I can hold 6th gear longer going up hills.

After reading several posts regarding carb mods over on XT225.com, I went with a 42.5 pilot and 130 main. One washer shim under the needle jet, and 2.5 turns out on the pilot screw worked best on my bike. These mods made all the difference in the world to my bike - it runs cooler and doesn't backfire nearly as much when I back off the throttle. Runs great at all altitudes and in all rpm ranges. it might be my imagination but now when I use my 16t countershaft sprocket it seems like I can hold 6th gear longer going up hills.

Thanks! Is the rest of your bike stock or did you change/open up the intake and/or exhaust? I don't want a louder bike so I don't plan on changes to the snorkel/intake or exhaust.

Thanks! Is the rest of your bike stock or did you change/open up the intake and/or exhaust? I don't want a louder bike so I don't plan on changes to the snorkel/intake or exhaust.

Intake and exhaust completely stock. The older I get the more I can't stand noise. Quiet as the XT225 is, in the last couple years I pretty much always use foam earplugs when riding (and that's even with a Bell helmet that clamps tightly around my ears).

What is the charging output of an 01 225. I have gerbing gear that I use on my other bike that I didn't think it would work on the little bike. I see someone else here used it on the 225 and was curious what I could get away with.

What is the charging output of an 01 225. I have gerbing gear that I use on my other bike that I didn't think it would work on the little bike. I see someone else here used it on the 225 and was curious what I could get away with.

I ran yesterday with a Gerbing microwire jacket liner, and an older pair of their gloves. I was sufficiently warm, and based on past experience, pulled the plug about 5 miles before I stopped to allow enough time for the battery to recharge itself. It restarted on the button fine. In the past, I've had dead batteries if I stay plugged in until I stop. I installed a kick starter for that reason. The bike will start with a dead battery and run fine. Run and bump works too.

My current battery is new this season, and I figured I'd experiment. As I was approaching home yesterday I decided not to unplug. When I reached home, I turned it off, and then hit the start button. It turned over and started, but just barely. At that point I plugged it into a charger.

__________________Oh I used to be disgusted, but now I try to be amused-E.Costello
'01 Kawasaki W650, '05 Yamaha XT225

first of all, thanks to speedo66 for the gerbings info. now for the age-old question of jetting... i bought a 130, 135, and 140 main jet that i plan on experimenting with. i don't mind modifying the snorkel but i do not want to modify the exhaust. so if someone has a suggestion as to what would work best with just snorkel removed.....let me know.. i saw comments on shimming the needle jet. i am familiar with shimming the needle but never heard of shimming the jet..so am i misinterpretting the way it was written or are we talking about shimming the needle? point me the right direction............thanks...

first of all, thanks to speedo66 for the gerbings info. now for the age-old question of jetting... i bought a 130, 135, and 140 main jet that i plan on experimenting with. i don't mind modifying the snorkel but i do not want to modify the exhaust. so if someone has a suggestion as to what would work best with just snorkel removed.....let me know.. i saw comments on shimming the needle jet. i am familiar with shimming the needle but never heard of shimming the jet..so am i misinterpretting the way it was written or are we talking about shimming the needle? point me the right direction............thanks...

I recently messed around with the snorkel, thankfully I had a few snorkels laying around and could experiment with. Power was best with the snorkel completely removed but it was loud. Second best was with the section inside the air box removed and the top part installed backwards. Added a little intake noise but not much and with the helmet on I could hardly tell the difference. Pretty much any mod of the snorkel will add some sound so if you are completely against added noise you are best to leave it as is.

__________________
I've learned to give "impossible" the finger as I pass it by.

The only way to get through life is to laugh your way through it!

Day by day, nothing seems to change. But pretty soon, everything is different.

Her post got me thinking about the mighty XT225's run over the model years. It occurred to me there should be a Wiki page. Then I checked and by golly somebody did stub one out.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_XT_225

I'm thinking we could flesh out that page. The color scheme changed just about every model year so a set of such pix might be a nice contribution. Visitors might also appreciate a link to this thread and other forums. I'll put it on my to-do list. Any other takers?

I kinda liked the colors on the 95 after I got used to them....

Quote:

Originally Posted by deserteagle56

Lisa, I had a 1992 XT225 for many years and many, many miles. A great, super-dependable bike but I started worrying about the miles I had on it. It was either do a complete rebuild or find one with fewer miles. As luck would have it, shortly thereafter I found a 2007 with only 247 miles on the odometer and sold the 1992. Now, I live at 4400 feet in elevation and most of my riding starts there and goes up to around 12,000 feet - so I was surprised to find how lean the 2007 ran, even at those altitudes. If whoever owned that bike before you did has not done it yet, you might want to read up on what it takes (pretty simple fix, really) to rejet the carburetor and have it run like it should. Lots of good information on this site and over on XT225.com.

Jet kit and some other parts have already arrived. Have re-registered over xt225.com. Hopefully can start tearing her down this weekend

Quote:

Originally Posted by shoein

Hey CamperBob. Went out in the shop and looked at the front tire of Lisa's new xt. Looks like a stock rim with a worn out tire to me. The new parts are starting to roll in. New jets, tires, fenders, bars, handguards, tail light, turn signals, pegs are a few of the mods.

I'm not an XT dude, I'm a TW guy but we're saddled with the same crappy 110mm rear brake. I'm doing a 130mm rear brake conversion on a TW200. Don't stone me, but since there doesn't seem to be a TTR thread and a few of you may own both or have converted your XT to a TTR rear drum, I need a pic of a TTR rear brake backing plate.

More specifically I need an edge pic of the swingarm tab slot in the backing plate. Here's the TW:

And here's one from an XT350, which is one of the few that shares the same brake shoe diameter and axle hole size. The bottom of the slot is too far out from the drum. The TTR is a candidate and I'm hoping its slot depth is at least somewhere between the two. If anyone can help me out with this I'd sure appreciate it:

Check post #8065, you may have done this already. I can confirm that with a few mods the ttr225 wheel will fit an xt225. If the hubs share the same parts numbers on the ttr230 and ttr225, and the xt225 and tw200 share the same exact rear hub, then indeed, you are in business. Just check the parts fiche on one of the mailorder places (Cheap Cycle Parts, etc.) for parts #'s. #8065 has a link to an earlier post that describes the process in more detail if they do indeed match.
Keep us in the loop.

Check post #8065, you may have done this already. I can confirm that with a few mods the ttr225 wheel will fit an xt225. If the hubs share the same parts numbers on the ttr230 and ttr225, and the xt225 and tw200 share the same exact rear hub, then indeed, you are in business. Just check the parts fiche on one of the mailorder places (Cheap Cycle Parts, etc.) for parts #'s. #8065 has a link to an earlier post that describes the process in more detail if they do indeed match.
Keep us in the loop.

Thanks. I asked at the time but got no response.

The fiche are pretty funky line drawings. Not much detail, prolly because there isn't much need for it. Unfortunately your post doesn't include didn't a pic within the swingarm. I can't tell how far outboard the slot is in the brake plate.

The TW rear brake drum is removable without unlacing the wheel and the larger 130mm TW front drum can be bolted to the rear hub with a couple of mods if the right 130mm backing plate can be sourced. Unfortunately the only TW's to ever wear 130mm rear brakes were Euro TW125's which were never sold here.

Go figger. Yamaha puts the big brakes on the slow bike. Just like the way they treated you guys. They put the least effective rear brake on the street version.

Anyway at least the brake shoes are common to both swaps. Don't wanna accumulate a bucketful of doorstops in the search for a backing plate if anyone has pics. Just need a quick visual.

I am also interested in any information you find but I'm a little confused by your post.Are you changing the rear brake size without changing the hub?I bought a TTR225 hub because it has a bigger brake and is ten times thicker in most places-it's still a weak cast aluminum however.I know in advance that I need shorter spokes because the hub itself is larger and I'm getting new rims as well.You said something about the front fitting the rear which really confused me.Here is a link of someone who put a huge disc on the front of a a TW200 if that interests you. http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top...mm-brake-disc/

I recently messed around with the snorkel, thankfully I had a few snorkels laying around and could experiment with. Power was best with the snorkel completely removed but it was loud. Second best was with the section inside the air box removed and the top part installed backwards. Added a little intake noise but not much and with the helmet on I could hardly tell the difference. Pretty much any mod of the snorkel will add some sound so if you are completely against added noise you are best to leave it as is.

What size jet should be used with snorkel removed or modified?I put a 130 in today, couldn't believe how much quicker it warmed up without a choke. Went for a very short ride with snorkel intact. Seemed to run better than it did stock. Then went for ride with air filter cover removed, seemed to run about the same. I expected it not to run well with it one way or the other. My road is covered with snow so these have been short rides. I'm about to put on riding gear and attempt longer ride with 130 and snorkel removed.

What size jet should be used with snorkel removed or modified?I put a 130 in today, couldn't believe how much quicker it warmed up without a choke. Went for a very short ride with snorkel intact. Seemed to run better than it did stock. Then went for ride with air filter cover removed, seemed to run about the same. I expected it not to run well with it one way or the other. My road is covered with snow so these have been short rides. I'm about to put on riding gear and attempt longer ride with 130 and snorkel removed.

I have a 132.5 with the snorkel turned 180 degrees and the section inside the box trimmed off. I then have the screw out about 2.75 turns (goes to 3 turns if I put my modified exhaust can on) and it runs perfect from sea level to over 5000 ft.

__________________
I've learned to give "impossible" the finger as I pass it by.

The only way to get through life is to laugh your way through it!

Day by day, nothing seems to change. But pretty soon, everything is different.