Thursday, 28 June 2012

Recently I saw a youtube video describing what various gun tools were used for. The presenter said that the vent pick was used to occasionally clean out the vent in the barrel. This is not strictly true. It would be more correct to say that the vent pick is used to CLEAR the vent.

The vent rarely needs cleaning in between normal barrel washing chores. The vent pick is used to make sure that the vent is clear of gunpowder. The flash from the pan of the flint lock has to pass through the vent to reach the main charge in the barrel. If there is gunpowder blocking the vent, the flash from the pan has to first burn through the gunpowder in the vent. This can delay the ignition time, not by much, but it will delay ignition of the main charge.

Another precaution against a blocked vent is to insert a vent quill in the vent when loading, this will keep the vent clear.

The vent quill is also used to mark or signal a loaded gun even though the pan is not primed. This is to avoid any chance of double charging. The vent quill is left long enough that it can clearly be seen sticking out of the lock.

The vent pick can be fancy, or it can be a piece of wire bent to shape. Both work equally well.The brush on the left is a bought one. The brush on the right is mine, and I made it from horse hair bound with linen thread.

The pan brush is used to clean the pan of any gunpowder residue. If you have the time, this should be done between shots, especially on damp days. The potassium nitrate in the gunpowder attracts moisture so you need to clean the pan well. After using the pan brush I often wipe the pan out with a piece of cloth if the weather is wet.﻿

Friday, 22 June 2012

Their grow’s here Large Berch trees…on the Root
of the branches of the Said tree, grows Large Knobs of wood of Different
form’s, which they style posogan, which posogan is of great service to the
Natives, they use it to strike Light to, as we do touch wood… its Substance
Resembles Spunge…once Light is Very Difficult to put out…will Glow and Bur’n till
Consum’d to ashes and never Blaze.”
~James Isham, Hudson’s Bay, 1743-49

“They employ tree mushrooms very frequently
instead of tinder. Those which are taken from the sugar maple are reckoned the
best; those of the red maple are next in goodness, and next to them, those of
the sugar birch, for want of these, they likewise make use of those which grow
on the aspen tree.”
~ Peter Kalm, Canada, 1749

"Maple trees usually have large growths on
them, which are cut and dried in the sun, making a sort of touchwood which the
Canadians call tondre."
Jolicoeur Charles Bonin,
Memoir of French and Indian War Soldier, 1750's

“…fungus that grows on the outside of the
birch-tree…used by all the Indians in those parts for tinder…called by the
Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is known all over the country bordering on
Hudson’s Bay by the name of Pesogan…there is another kind…that I think is
infinitely preferable to either. This is found in old decayed poplars, and lies
in flakes…is always moist when taken from the tree but when dry…takes fire readily
from the spark of a steel: but it is much improved by being kept dry in a bag
that has contained gunpowder.”
~Samuel Hearne, Northern Canada, 1772

“I said to them…you Fools go to the Birch Trees
and get some touchwood,”
~David Thompson, Lake Athabasca, 1790s

“This induced me to resolve not to travel more
by land without my gun, powder and shot, steel, spunge and flint, for
striking a fire…”
~Patrick Campbell, Canada/New York, 1792

“A Canadian never neglects to have touchwood for
his pipe”
~David Thompson, Red Lake River, 1798

Warning For General Braddock by Robert Griffing. The lead scouts of Braddock's command found a warning carved into this downed tree. Braddock ignored the warning, lost the battle & was killed during the battle now known as "Braddock's Defeat". Braddock did not think much of the Indian allies. His attitude towards them riled them so much that they left the column. Braddock & his then young officer Washington came up against French & Indians before they even came in sight of the French fort. The Red coats stood in ranks in the forest, & they died in ranks. Daniel Boone was helping one of the wagoners in the column. He cut the wagon loose & escaped on one of the horses.

I have great admiration for Living History Ladies. As well as cooking they participate in other aspects of the events. If you are thinking of joining a Living History Group like this one, do not assume that you will be stuck with chores! You choose what you want to do.http://www.theroutiers.org/

How does this promotion work? Tell your readers to go to Lulu.com. On our homepage, we will have the name of a savings coupon that they can add to their cart to save. This promotion ends Friday, 15 June at 11:59 PM. We reserve the right to change this offer at any time. Coupon codes are unique to each Lulu.com country store.http://www.lulu.com/

Whilst searching for items up in the old cottage today I came across a hand forged spoon that had belonged to a close friend of mine. I already have a wooden spoon that I carry in my knapsack, so I thought that this spoon might easily be turned into a lead ladle. Of course we already have a couple of lead ladles too, but we lack one for the .74 calibre fusil.

Washington Irving's Chouteau post:
"The little hamlet of the Agency was in a complete bustle; the blacksmith's
shed, in particular, was a scene of preparation; a strapping negro was shoeing
a horse; two half-breeds were fabricating iron spoons in which to melt lead for
bullets. An old trapper, in leathern hunting frock and moccasons, had placed
his rifle against a work-bench, while he superintended the operation, and
gossiped about his hunting exploits."

My friend Vieuxbois is not only a follower of this blog, but he is a valued international member of our 18th century living history group. What he has to say below regarding knives & battoning is in response to my recent article. It is really good to get the point of view from another person whos life is spent in the wild and often depends on the blades he carries with him.My sincere thanks to Vieuxbois for this information.

Frozen wood is ``brittle`` and easy to split. But it’s also very hard. Furthermore, steel is also more brittle when it’s very cold (it’s better to keep the protected blade warm by holding it close your body). So if I need to split frozen wood (which is rare and exceptional) there is more risk to damage a knife than an axe : an axe edge is generally thicker than a knife, there is more material to support the stress.

In my opinion, there are no reason for batoning with a knife unless if :

1. It’s not your choice, you need to do it : you are in a survival situation (or a survival training) with only a knife to work with, so you do with what you have, and you do it carefully because you want/need to preserve what you have like a treasure because your life depends on it. If you are in a true survival situation why would you risk breaking your knife? Break your knife and your chance of survival goes down.

2. You are playing like a kid, so you pay the game price.

3. It`s your choice, you want to do it : so you will use a very strong knife with an appropriate design/materials and heat treatment if you want to keep this tool in good condition. But does this very strong knife will do the same job than a thin blade? Of course I can carry both.

From Thin, Sharp, Knives - Posted: 9 September, 2011 in http://bfelabs.com/2011/09/09/thin-sharp-knives/ : `` If you look around the working world, at the knives that are regularly used to do work, you might notice some startling differences between those knives and what is prominent in the popular knife industry. Particularly the “survival”, “tactical”, and “hard use” arenas of popular knife-making (both custom and production).In these arenas we typically see heavy knives, from thick stock, with study handles and generally robust construction. We are told that this robustness is desirable, even absolutely necessary, for these tools to withstand the rigors of hard use. And the market sucks them up about as fast as they can be made, with companies like TOPS Knives producing ever-new variants of these beefy blades for battle and conquering barren-wastes. But what is being bought, and what is actually being used, are far different. What people actually work with is often something very different. The prominent working knife is not a robust, stout, knife but rather a thin, sharp, knife. I was at a branding recently, out here in cattle country, and took note of the knives being used. For those unfamiliar, when branding calves it is also common practice to ear-mark with a notch in an ear and castrate. These tasks require a deft hand with a sharp knife, particularly when the calf is not forced into an immobilizing squeeze chute, but is rather roped out and held down. I’ve taken part in and observed this process numerous times in my life, and there is a great commonality to the knives being used: They are thin, sharp, knives. The same knives most of the cowboys and ranch hands carry in their pockets daily, and use for everything.

The thin, sharp, knife is not unique to this environment, but rather common to every other. Moving out from the traditional slipjoint folder common to the ranching west, a survey of other traditional folding knife designs would turn up a variety of styles, locks, and construction methods, but one commonality: Thin, sharp, blades. Moving from folders, to fixed blade knives, we see the same variety in design and construction in traditional designs, but a great many have the same commonality of thin blades. The traditional Scandinavian knives, as typified by the Mora so common to woodscraft, are an easily accessible example of the type. Thin blades are not limited to small knives, either. Many old-time woodsmen, frontiersmen, mountainmen, etc. who used big knives carried ones that, rather than resembling the Iron Mistress of Hollywood, more resembled a butcher knife, being thin although long. Now, some may use the argument that we know more than they did, and thus make more appropriate choices, but that is simply nonsense. Anyone who makes a living with a tool, or depends on it for his own life, on a day-to-day basis, knows far more about selecting the right type of that tool than anyone who does not do the same, no matter the other mans “knowledge”.

If so many who’s lives depended on their knives choosing thinner blades historically holds little sway, then the fact that the trend is a modern one too should tell us something. Today, if we take a survey of the knives being used routinely, we would find many of them to be far thinner than what we’ve come to expect (or been told to expect). And not just small knives: While so many Americans and others influenced by the major knife market are of the opinion that a heavy, thick-spined, knife is required for chopping or “serious” woods work, much of the rest of the world relies on something far different; The machete, or some variant thereof. Different tools are appropriate for different tasks. There is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, a place for robust knives. One of the most valuable characteristics of contemporary knifemaking is the rise of robust locking systems for folding knives. The matching rise of the robust blade, however, may not be the best thing. But it is important to recognize that place, and use the right tool for the right job. For the majority of tasks for which a knife is used, a thick bladed knife is not the right tool. This includes many “hard” tasks, from woodscraft to cowboying to “tactical” environments (whatever those are). You aren’t necessarily wrong is you carry a robust knife for these, or even more mundane, daily uses, but you should ask yourself if that is truly what you need. Give some thought to whether cutting performance is a greater need than brute strength, and take a thinner knife better suited for cutting out for a spin sometime.``

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Some people do not realise that there is a difference between a ferrocerium rod and a traditional fire steel used in flint and steel fire lighting. With this short article I hope to correct this misunderstanding so that new comers to 18th century living history are not misled.

The Ferrocerium Rod.

(1) A ferrocerium rod is not made of steel. Despite being advertised as a "fire steel", it is NOT a fire steel. A ferrocerium rod is made from manufactured flint material, much like the flint in a cigarette lighter.

(2) A person will learn little of fire lighting lore from using a ferrocerium rod unless they study other fire lighting methods. A ferrocium rod will light any small kindling material providing it is dry. It will not light a candle.

(3) If a ferrocium rod is dropped, it can break. The shorter the pieces of broken ferrocerium rod, the less affective its capacity to make fire.

(4) Skill wise, using a ferrocerium rod requires no more skill or knowledge than using a cigarette lighter or matches.

(5) Ferrocerium rod users often carry a limitied supply of cotton balls and other types of prepared kindling materials. When these are used, they cannot be re-used. This type of kindling is not readily available in a wilderness situation.

(6) The use of a ferrocerium rod relies on having a piece of steel or a knife in order to create sparks.

The Fire Steel.

(1) A fire steel is made from carbon steel and creates sparks when struck correctly by a hard sharp edged rock such as flint; chert, agate, quartz or other similar rock types.

(2) Using flint and steel leads to learning more about plant tinders and fire lore in general. The method of using flint and steel for making fire goes back several hundred years.

(3) If you drop a fire steel it is not likely to break, but if it does it can still be used for making fire.

(4) It takes a certain skill to use a flint and steel for fire lighting, it also requires some knowledge of plant tinders and different kindling types. Users of flint and steel tend to be more dedicated to research and experimentation and are better prepared for making fire in all weather conditions.

(5) Tinder is always carried along with a flint and steel. Tinder can be used to light a candle and a lit candle can be used to light damp kindling.

(6) Tinder plants are found in the outdoors and they are easily prepared. By using a tinderbox the tinder lasts longer and if you collect a fresh supply of tinder plant material whenever you see it you will never run out.

(1) Charred cloth is a good tinder, but it does not last as long as tinder made directly from wild plants, and cloth for charring is not available in a wilderness situation.

(2) All the plant tinders I have used to date have been easily prepared by charring. Some tinders in the 18th century were prepared by soaking them in nitre, but Potassium Nitrate is not easily processed in a wilderness situation unless you use urine. Even so, charring is an easier preparation than urine and it works better.

(3) The tinderbox is used for storing and carrying tinder. It is used for making fire by striking the sparks directly into the tinderbox. It is used for preparing tinder by placing freshly charred tinder in the tinderbox and closing the lid to smother the smouldering tinder. Uncharred tinder material can be placed in the tinderbox with charred tinder, and it will get charred with use when making fire.

(4) Not all tinderboxes are waterproof. I recommend that you keep your tinderbox, a candle stub, and a little kindling in a greased leather fire bag. Make it large enough that the top/opening can be rolled down for closure.

(5) I recommend that you always carry spare tinder in a greased leather bag. I carry my spare tinder in one of my gunpowder bags.

My brass tinderbox and fire steel.

Tinderbox with charred plant material; bracket fungus and punk wood.

Tinderbox with both charred tinder material and uncharred tinder material.

My greased leather fire bag.

My greased leather gunpowder bag. I carry unprepared tinder material in this gunpowder bag. The residue from the gunpowder coats the tinder so it will catch a spark without having to char it.

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Due to new terminology, some people are getting confused with the term Tinder. The old meaning of tinder as used with flint, steel and tinderbox means a plant based material that will catch a spark and produce an ember from which fire can be made.But in modern terms, mostly due to some people refering to the commercially made flint Ferrocium Rod as a "fire steel" (which it is not), tinder now includes kindling. As you can imagine, being now no distinction between kindling and tinder, Pilgrims are getting confused when they are unable to catch a spark on kindling when they have just read that you can.So my purpose here is to try and make it a little more clear and understandable. Firstly whenever you read the term "fire steel", take the time to ask the person if they are using a ferrocium rod. If they are, then you can ignore most of what they are talking about because it will have no bearing on YOUR use of a REAL flint and steel. Below are some examples of Kindling.

Top is some sisal rope strands, and below that the outer bark of the Stringybark tree.

A disused birds nest mostly made of dried grasses. In this form such kindling is often called a "tinder nest", which again can be confusing. This is kindling, not tinder.

Dried grass.

Dried leaves from trees.

To the right in this basket are the dried stalks of the Jerusalem Artichoke plant, and to the left Mountain Gum bark. Sizes of kindling going up from this would be twigs and sticks of various sizes.

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Settlers.

"I noticed particularly, one family of about 12 in number. The mancarried an axe and a gun on his shoulders. The Wife, the rim of a spinningwheel in one hand, and a loaf of bread in the other. Several little boys andgirls, each with a bundle, according to their size Two poor horses, eachheavily loaded with some poor necessities. On the top of the baggage of one,was an infant rocked to sleep in a kind of wicker cage, lashed securely to thehorse. A cow formed one of the company ,and she was destined to bear herproportion of service - a bed cord was wound around her horns and a bag of mealon her back. They were not only patient, but cheerful and pleased withthemselves with the expectation of seeing happy days beyond the mountains"Diary of Presbyterian Rev. David McClure.18th century.

What is Living History?

What is Living History?Living history makes history come to life. To do this members emulate different sorts of people from history. These can include blacksmiths, seamstresses, housewives, farmers, woodsmen and woodswomen. We wear the clothes of the time and learn and use the life and trade skills of the period.What period of history does the NECLHG re-enact ?Approximately 1680-1760 on the New World Frontier.Why this period of history and why a New World lifestyle and not Australian?The New World was settled much earlier than Australia and enables us to choose from a larger variety of nationalities, occupations and skills. All of these options make the activities more fun.Australian settlement was in a later period and founded on a penal colony. There are other re-enactment groups for people interested in the Australian colonial period.Is joining NECLHG expensive?No. There are no membership fees for the group. The activity is only as expensive as you want it to be! Many members make all their own period style clothing and equipment. This is an ideal activity for people who like to make things and be creative.What if there are some items I can not make myself or I am too busy to make?You always have the option of buying or trading for items. People who want to purchase their clothing and equipment can do so; there are many specialist suppliers. Also you can trade for items you can not make .Can my family join this group?Yes we are very family oriented.What is experimental archaeology?This is the term used when someone makes and uses a period tool or item. This can be anything from lighting a fire with a flint and steel to building and sailing a ship on an original route! It is the only way to really discover how things were done “back then”.What is historical trekking?This activity is trekking and camping in an historically accurate manner. People on a historical trek wear the clothing of the period and carry and use only the equipment used in that period. These treks are a great way to learn woods lore and survival skills.What sort of “period skills” can we learn and practice?You can learn and use any skill that was used in the period you reenact. For the mid-18th century these include spinning and weaving on a loom, finger weaving, tomahawk throwing, fire lighting, blade sharpening, leather making and leather working and much, much more.Is the NECLHG a gun club?No. Some on our members may carry a period gun on treks and camps as part of their persona. These guns are flintlock muzzle-loading antique guns or copies. The highest level of safely is maintained at all times. Guns are not carried loaded and all gun carrying members are licensed.What about women members?In the 18th century women performed many traditional and non traditional roles. There were women blacksmiths, naturalists, artists, and woods-women. Some accompanied militia on scouts . In the NECLHG a women can be what ever she wants to be!What about children.?Children are always welcome. Naturally children are the responsibility of their parents. Children really enjoy the living history activities and skills. It is a wonderful way to learn history and it makes their school based history a lot more meaningful. Also children can learn bush craft, survival skills and camping skills.