Thanks! We're quite excited as it should be a very nice office when done. I'm hiring out the drywall work (as I have a great/reasonably priced drywall guy, and personally am terrible/slow/hate mudding and taping), but am doing the rest myself.

I'm staring down the barrel of a small bit of drywall work myself. For your scale, I definitely would hire a pro. I have the advantage of a small space, of which only about 4 sqft of it being visible around the edges of the TV so I can't screw it up too badly . Still weekend-warrioring my way through framing; I will post Before and After pics when it's done.

I'm staring down the barrel of a small bit of drywall work myself. For your scale, I definitely would hire a pro. I have the advantage of a small space, of which only about 4 sqft of it being visible around the edges of the TV so I can't screw it up too badly . Still weekend-warrioring my way through framing; I will post Before and After pics when it's done.

What are you framing up? A straight partition wall? Or something more complicated? What was very helpful for me was nailing up a top-plate in the ceiling first. Much easier to get it straight/where you want it. Then, build the wall (I did so in two pieces as I was doing things solo, and didn't want to wrestle a 13' wall into place on my own) on the floor. I then lifted the top of my frame to the top-plate, and kicked in the bottom of the frame into place. Then level the wall, and make sure it is aligned with the top plate. Finally nail up into the top plate, and in my case I used a powder actuated nailer to put nails into the concrete slab.

(The last bit of framing I did before this was a bifold door bedroom closet, and I built in in place, toenailing in the studs. Worked pretty well, but I liked this method quite a bit better)

I originally envisioned building a new wall, floor plate and top plate and everything, but we decided to just scab out from the existing studs since we're only coming out a few inches. The drywall I'm putting in is just to finish the space that the cabinets go in, for noise reduction and just because I should. The project is to expand an existing recessed area, into which I'm putting some IKEA bookcases as my entertainment center. I'm hanging my TV from the wall instead of setting it on the bottom unit.

Finally nail up into the top plate, and in my case I used a powder actuated nailer to put nails into the concrete slab.

It's hard to tell, but in your pic it looks like your bottom plate is not pressure-treated lumber. Here's hoping it was as code requires any timber in contact with concrete to be pressure-treated. I have found some in both our old house and our new house that are not. But I am not ripping out the walls to redo it. Fortunately, we never had water issues in the old house (on sand) and so far none in the new house (on gravel).

Finally nail up into the top plate, and in my case I used a powder actuated nailer to put nails into the concrete slab.

It's hard to tell, but in your pic it looks like your bottom plate is not pressure-treated lumber. Here's hoping it was as code requires any timber in contact with concrete to be pressure-treated. I have found some in both our old house and our new house that are not. But I am not ripping out the walls to redo it. Fortunately, we never had water issues in the old house (on sand) and so far none in the new house (on gravel).

Unfortunately, all of the local lumber places were out of PT 2x4 lumber (the one I could find that had some was HD, and it was so warped/bowed that it wouldn't work). Hard to see in the pic, but I used 2-coats of the paint-on copper anti-rot stuff. Sure, it isn't as good as the real PT, but it should work for this case, especially since this basement slab is quite dry- it apparently has good drainage underneath, and being a walkout doesn't have the level of pressure from all sides you see in a typical basement. Finally, the plan is actually to tear this house down in the next 5-7 years, to build what we really want. I wouldn't have sunk the $$$ into re-doing this room, if it wasn't for needing a nursery for the baby upstairs, and thus the relocation of our home office.

I may be paying for that decision in the future.. but hopefully by the time it would ever be a problem the house will be long gone

Roger that. You do what you have to. I was reframing a shared wall in the basement bedroom/closet and laundry room of our old house. Despite the whole area not being square I only corrected what I needed to change for other reasons. I left the rest alone as it would have entailed a lot more work and not been worth it. Same as in your case.

Roger that. You do what you have to. I was reframing a shared wall in the basement bedroom/closet and laundry room of our old house. Despite the whole area not being square I only corrected what I needed to change for other reasons. I left the rest alone as it would have entailed a lot more work and not been worth it. Same as in your case.

Exactly.. However, your message pinged that "red flag" piece at the back of my mind. Ever since getting frustrated after 3-days of searching for usable PT 2x4s, getting close to the deadline when the drywall guy was starting, and saying "eff it!" and going with regular lumber + paint on rot-proofing, I've had that little voice saying "You shouldn't cut corners! Do the job right!" I guess now that the drywall is up, I need to just shut that voice in my brain off (at least on this particular issue) and hope that the decision doesn't bite me in the ass.

But hey.. at least I used mold resistant drywall for the lower course.

Exactly.. However, your message pinged that "red flag" piece at the back of my mind. Ever since getting frustrated after 3-days of searching for usable PT 2x4s, getting close to the deadline when the drywall guy was starting, and saying "eff it!" and going with regular lumber + paint on rot-proofing, I've had that little voice saying "You shouldn't cut corners! Do the job right!" I guess now that the drywall is up, I need to just shut that voice in my brain off (at least on this particular issue) and hope that the decision doesn't bite me in the ass.

But hey.. at least I used mold resistant drywall for the lower course.

Certainly didn't mean to drag you down. Sorry! You did that this would eventually be gutted again to rebuild, correct? If that is the case I would not worry unless you had a major basement flood. Since you specified no evidence of water, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Certainly didn't mean to drag you down. Sorry! You did that this would eventually be gutted again to rebuild, correct? If that is the case I would not worry unless you had a major basement flood. Since you specified no evidence of water, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Oh, no worries at all.. defnitely didn't bring me down. Mostly I am just excited to be done with the office and start using it. (Currently both my wife and I work out of a 10'x11' bedroom. It is two different businesses and between the desks, bookcase, files, etc.. it is quite cramped. This will give us a ton more room).

As for the eventual plan- we bought the property (nearly 4 beautiful acres), not the house (the house is a 1970 double-wide modular on a full walk-out basement, and has been pretty abused over the years). So eventually, we'd like to tear down the existing house, and rebuild on another footprint in a different area of the property. Hopefully this can happen in 5-7 years, but we'll see.

So i need an opinion. Im building a house and we are under contract the stock fire place see picture is rather lackluster and i prefer a raised hearth.The issue is the builder wants close to $5k for a raise hearth stone fireplace that doesnt even go all the way to the ceiling. I did put this in our original contract.

How ever after a recent home show we talked to a couple builders that stated they could do it for about $3k. $2k less.

Whats your opinions Ars. how hard is it to raise the mantle 10" and then stone in the fireplace?

So eventually, we'd like to tear down the existing house, and rebuild on another footprint in a different area of the property.

I might even suggest reversing your order there.

Shrug.. we love camping, and have acreage..

And yes... I've spoken to the city, and they'd give a variance to leave the existing house on the property while building the new one.. though we'd have to put enough in escrow to demo the old house when the new one is up.

Many outlets and switches have slots you can push the wires into, rather than wrapping the wires around the post. Those slots notionally have a release button you can push to release the wire. However, on every one I've seen, the releases are typically inside an opening approximately 1 angstrom wide by 1 micrometer high - I've never been able to activate the release without breaking the switch. I've tried finishing nails, drill bits, and allen wrenches, but have found nothing microscopic enough to work.

What is the proper tool that is both narrow enough to fit and rigid enough to activate the release?

Many outlets and switches have slots you can push the wires into, rather than wrapping the wires around the post. Those slots notionally have a release button you can push to release the wire. However, on every one I've seen, the releases are typically inside an opening approximately 1 angstrom wide by 1 micrometer high - I've never been able to activate the release without breaking the switch. I've tried finishing nails, drill bits, and allen wrenches, but have found nothing microscopic enough to work.

What is the proper tool that is both narrow enough to fit and rigid enough to activate the release?

All the home improvement shows I've seen say not to bother with the push in holes. You have to take the outlet out of the box to get to the release anyway, you may as well use the screw down connectors. And, realistically, why do you need a quick release in a permanently installed device?

What is the proper tool that is both narrow enough to fit and rigid enough to activate the release?

Just did this yesterday. I find a good #0 flathead mini-screwdriver does the trick. You might also get a 2.4mm screwdriver to work (which is a little thicker/more rigid), but it depends on the switch. Then, when re-wriring, I make sure to use the screw terminals instead .

This new sink/vanity has been a massive headache this weekend for me. First my wife who bought the vanity and sink failed to notice that our floor board trim would obstruct the vanity from going flush to the wall. So I had to terribly improvise a 30" 2x4 to fill in the gap (this is all a 2 year solution till we redo our bathrooms). Then the lines to the sink were too short. Etc, etc. 5 trips to Home Depot in 24 hours. Joy!

Anyways I am now running into an issue with the P-trap. I have old steel coming in, into PVC. I dreaded disconnecting the rear part of the P-trap knowing that it could cause havoc and it has. The pipe end itself is not smooth, it has some rough jagged edges around the end. I tried both a rubber washer and plastic washer (1.25") but the end still leaks. I think a 1.5" washer would be too big.

I am afraid that my next step would have to be to cut the bend, and close to the wall as possible, put in a Fernco coupler, and hope for the best. My fear is if the metal pipe cracks in any sort of way I am totally screwed.

Many outlets and switches have slots you can push the wires into, rather than wrapping the wires around the post. Those slots notionally have a release button you can push to release the wire. However, on every one I've seen, the releases are typically inside an opening approximately 1 angstrom wide by 1 micrometer high - I've never been able to activate the release without breaking the switch. I've tried finishing nails, drill bits, and allen wrenches, but have found nothing microscopic enough to work.

What is the proper tool that is both narrow enough to fit and rigid enough to activate the release?

All the home improvement shows I've seen say not to bother with the push in holes. You have to take the outlet out of the box to get to the release anyway, you may as well use the screw down connectors. And, realistically, why do you need a quick release in a permanently installed device?

Oh, I don't - this is me moving/replacing the existing outlets. I hate these things with a passion and always use the screws when I install new ones. It's just that this is an otherwise perfectly functional outlet and if I can save a couple bucks by reusing it, I will. I'll look around for anything smaller than what I've already tried, but if it doesn't give up in a couple minutes, I will .

First my wife who bought the vanity and sink failed to notice that our floor board trim would obstruct the vanity from going flush to the wall.

Why didn't you just cut the trim out?

Quote:

I am afraid that my next step would have to be to cut the bend, and close to the wall as possible, put in a Fernco coupler, and hope for the best. My fear is if the metal pipe cracks in any sort of way I am totally screwed.

Be careful. If you can crack steel pipe, I'd be impressed. The concern is probably more about any brass fittings you have or bending a copper pipe in the wall.

One of those oscillator cutters would probably be a better choice than going after it with a hacksaw. I am not sure if a pipe cutter as would be used on plumbing would go through steel or not. Might be worth a shot.

First my wife who bought the vanity and sink failed to notice that our floor board trim would obstruct the vanity from going flush to the wall.

Why didn't you just cut the trim out?

The vanity is generally inexpensive and has a cheap back. A support on top and bottom that if I were to cut the vanity around the baseboard trim I would loose all rear structural integrity. The alternative of cutting the baseboard trim was out because I don't have the tools to make that type of cut, and honestly I had not considered buying a new jigsaw to work on the bath project. The whole bath should be gutted and redone by 2015 anyways.

AmigaPhreak wrote:

Quote:

I am afraid that my next step would have to be to cut the bend, and close to the wall as possible, put in a Fernco coupler, and hope for the best. My fear is if the metal pipe cracks in any sort of way I am totally screwed.

Be careful. If you can crack steel pipe, I'd be impressed. The concern is probably more about any brass fittings you have or bending a copper pipe in the wall.

One of those oscillator cutters would probably be a better choice than going after it with a hacksaw. I am not sure if a pipe cutter as would be used on plumbing would go through steel or not. Might be worth a shot.

Yeah I am having my doubts that my pipe cutter will work well on steel. I may just call in a pro to finish up, I really have this big fear of doing a bad job when it comes to plumbing and next thing you know it's raining in my kitchen.

Yeah I am having my doubts that my pipe cutter will work well on steel. I may just call in a pro to finish up, I really have this big fear of doing a bad job when it comes to plumbing and next thing you know it's raining in my kitchen.

I had a long response on how to address this yourself typed up but I went back to look at the first photo again and then realized something. It looks like the bottom of the metal had threads, but they are sheared off. You will want to confirm this first as this makes a big difference. If they are, then I don't understand how you are attempting to put the two halves together again. If they are, then you need to replace that piece of pipe. preferably with PVC.

The alternative of cutting the baseboard trim was out because I don't have the tools to make that type of cut, and honestly I had not considered buying a new jigsaw to work on the bath project. The whole bath should be gutted and redone by 2015 anyways.

My suggestion would be to use a prybar to gently remove the trim from the wall, make the cut with a bog-standard chop saw or even a hand saw, then re-attach.

Yeah I am having my doubts that my pipe cutter will work well on steel. I may just call in a pro to finish up, I really have this big fear of doing a bad job when it comes to plumbing and next thing you know it's raining in my kitchen.

I had a long response on how to address this yourself typed up but I went back to look at the first photo again and then realized something. It looks like the bottom of the metal had threads, but they are sheared off. You will want to confirm this first as this makes a big difference. If they are, then I don't understand how you are attempting to put the two halves together again. If they are, then you need to replace that piece of pipe. preferably with PVC.

The thread is still there, it's literally just a very small area of thread. As far as I can tell they did not shear off since it's not too crazy jaggy. I could be wrong.

It does look to me like the elbow is just rusted in place to the cast iron (or steel) waste pipe stub that comes to the wall. Have you tried putting a pipe wrench on it to get some leverage to turn it out of the threaded waste pipe, or are you just trying to use the elbow for leverage? I'd try putting some penetrating oil on the stuck threads and then use a largish pipe wrench on it, gently applying more and more pressure until it gives. With enough leverage the pipe will either turn out of the joint or will break. If the elbow breaks, leaving parts still stuck to the stub, what's left shouldn't present too much trouble to remove since it will likely be weakened, rusty bits.

Of coarse the goal is to remove the elbow and not damage the waste pipe that goes into the wall.

If I was to leave the elbow in place, I would just adapt the vanity to fit flush to the wall. It wouldn't take much time to reinforce the back of the vanity (a piece of board cut to fit inside the back and a few L brackets screwing it in place should do the job) so removing enough to fit over the old base molding. I'm assuming the vanity it just particle board, so notching it to fit is a pretty trivial task, even by hand with a saw.

Also, that pic makes it look like it sheared off at some point, but some small part was left and then reattached to the last pipe you had on there.

Talking to some "old house experts" it seems that this solder-weld was common for a while. Most likely there was some damage to the pipe when they changed things out (likely circa 1960s judging by the old pink sink) and the solder weld sealed things up.

Danger Mouse wrote:

Any chance of getting a bit wonky and scoring the pipe lightly to make new threads? Or would using epoxy on the PVC pipe you attach to that bit of pipe violate code?

I am honestly afraid that modification to the pipe will make it even worse. Very old galvanized pipe, possible from when the house first was around in the 1920s.

JamHandy wrote:

It does look to me like the elbow is just rusted in place to the cast iron (or steel) waste pipe stub that comes to the wall. Have you tried putting a pipe wrench on it to get some leverage to turn it out of the threaded waste pipe, or are you just trying to use the elbow for leverage? I'd try putting some penetrating oil on the stuck threads and then use a largish pipe wrench on it, gently applying more and more pressure until it gives. With enough leverage the pipe will either turn out of the joint or will break. If the elbow breaks, leaving parts still stuck to the stub, what's left shouldn't present too much trouble to remove since it will likely be weakened, rusty bits.

As noted above there is actual solder on the pipe, along with some rust, etc. I did put some penetrating oil and then used some leverage to try to budge and nothing at all. I was afraid of snapping off something so I gave up on it. I am not at the point that I want to have to break open the wall and replace pieces and costs boku bucks.

JamHandy wrote:

If I was to leave the elbow in place, I would just adapt the vanity to fit flush to the wall. It wouldn't take much time to reinforce the back of the vanity (a piece of board cut to fit inside the back and a few L brackets screwing it in place should do the job) so removing enough to fit over the old base molding. I'm assuming the vanity it just particle board, so notching it to fit is a pretty trivial task, even by hand with a saw.

Well this is what I did with the 2x4, which was the right depth to clear the molding, but if I tried to trim out the vanity it would be a bit nuts.

So i need an opinion. Im building a house and we are under contract the stock fire place see picture is rather lackluster and i prefer a raised hearth.The issue is the builder wants close to $5k for a raise hearth stone fireplace that doesnt even go all the way to the ceiling. I did put this in our original contract.

How ever after a recent home show we talked to a couple builders that stated they could do it for about $3k. $2k less.

Whats your opinions Ars. how hard is it to raise the mantle 10" and then stone in the fireplace?

I really need to replace the kitchen faucet in our 18 year old home. I'm a complete novice to DIY work, so I'm not sure if this is something I should attempt to undertake or not. The wife doesn't want me to hire a plumber for this, but I'd prefer to have it done right and to code so that I don't have to worry about it. Anyone know the difficulty of such a replacement?

I really need to replace the kitchen faucet in our 18 year old home. I'm a complete novice to DIY work, so I'm not sure if this is something I should attempt to undertake or not. The wife doesn't want me to hire a plumber for this, but I'd prefer to have it done right and to code so that I don't have to worry about it. Anyone know the difficulty of such a replacement?

About comparable with changing a car wheel, maybe as hard as brake pads if it's complex one. Easier than rotors.

I really need to replace the kitchen faucet in our 18 year old home. I'm a complete novice to DIY work, so I'm not sure if this is something I should attempt to undertake or not. The wife doesn't want me to hire a plumber for this, but I'd prefer to have it done right and to code so that I don't have to worry about it. Anyone know the difficulty of such a replacement?

Once you shut off the supply lines under the sink, it's simple unscrewing apart, and rescrewing back together with new parts. Have some buckets handy.

It's not complicated, just awkward to get to parts because of the layout of most kitchen sink cabinets.

I really need to replace the kitchen faucet in our 18 year old home. I'm a complete novice to DIY work, so I'm not sure if this is something I should attempt to undertake or not. The wife doesn't want me to hire a plumber for this, but I'd prefer to have it done right and to code so that I don't have to worry about it. Anyone know the difficulty of such a replacement?

Turn off sink supply lines (test to make sure no water is still flowing from sink faucet). Disconnect from underside of faucet pipes (crescent wrench or pliers should be enough). Locate any retaining nuts, usually one around either a center supply feed, or two...one around each of the handle supply feeds. (these feeds are the copper/brass pipes that extend down through the sink from the actual faucet). You may need a large crescent wrench for this. Once they are removed, gently rock the faucet back and forth to break any caulk/grout seal, and lift out.

I really need to replace the kitchen faucet in our 18 year old home. I'm a complete novice to DIY work, so I'm not sure if this is something I should attempt to undertake or not. The wife doesn't want me to hire a plumber for this, but I'd prefer to have it done right and to code so that I don't have to worry about it. Anyone know the difficulty of such a replacement?

As the others have said, this is generally pretty easy. However, I just replaced mine that was about that old and the shutoffs were so full of calcification they were no longer functional and I had to replace them as well.