Designer Flash

BY: HAL RUBENSTEIN

BY HAL RUBENSTEIN

When you see a woman dressed by Naeem Khan, the word that immediately comes to mind is RESPLENDENT. This marvelous adjective designates beauty that embraces the richness of color, the sumptuous sensuality of texture, an eagerness to dazzle, and an occasional sweep towards the majestic. No one can transform these qualities more gloriously into garments than the man who dressed First Lady Michelle Obama more times than any other designer working today. Who could blame her? Naeem adores everything that makes a woman sparkle – sequins, beads, paillettes, and, of course, gold, silver, platinum, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, in fact, any jewelry that makes you look resplendent. No wonder he is perfect for Gabriel.

The Interview

For eight years, we have witnessed one woman command the world stage, unfailingly exuding the essence of graciousness, the poise that accompanies self-awareness, a fearlessly exuberant style as enviable as it is relatable, and dazzling everyone with a special brand of radiance that only a grown woman who has lived an eventful life can possess. To quote my best friend’s daughter, “Michelle Obama is the bomb!”

And no designer, in any of fashion’s capital, has dressed the
First Lady more often, and to more consistent universal acclaim, than Naeem Khan.

The woman believes you don’t just walk into a room. Rather, you make an entrance. She came to the right place, because Indian born designer (now an American citizen) grew up literally immersed in a world that thrived on glamour, sparkle, and explosive color.

No wonder, Khan’s ready-to-wear collection could only be described as rich in work clothes if your job is making everyone believe that everyday can could be a memorable one. In the White House, on the red carpet, at the best parties, on indulgent holidays and as the centerpiece of the most marvelous weddings, Khan’s glorious craftsmanship and impeccable designs are infallible spotlight catchers.

Understated? Nah. Minimalist? Where’s the fun in that? As Khan says with unhesitant matter-of-factness, “Too much is never
too much.”

Hal: You launched your line in 2003, but the dress that caused everyone to quickly learn how to pronounce your name correctly was the strapless beaded gold gown Michelle Obama wore in 2009 to a state dinner for the Prime Minister of India. She had looked lovely prior to this night, but this was the first time our jaws dropped in her direction.

Naeem: I couldn’t believe it. It was seen all over the world. Even little villages in India had pictures of it.

They called me from the White House with a tone of high drama. Her people wanted me to design something for her in only two weeks.

Naturally, they stressed it was an evening devoted to my homeland.

Hal:But how do you make a custom handmade dress in two weeks?

Naeem: And what do you make that feels Indian but doesn’t look like a traditional sari. I decided to place it where India meets America. I immediately thought of gold because I love jewelry and I thought of how Indian women love to have an armful full of shiny gold bracelets. They do not live without their bangles. When you get married, you get your bangles, and you have to wear them till the day you die.

Then it’s obvious that Michelle has great shoulders. Finally, my
grandfather built the factories where they used to make sequins, cutting them by hand, in both 24K gold and sterling silver. It’s a 1000 years old technique. Though we didn’t used precious metals this time, because the weight would have been too much, especially because we used the lightest chiffon. Still, all the beads and all the sequins embroidered into poppies were cut by hand.

Naturally, we recommended the accessories because that is an essential part of the culture. The result was such a memory for me. The next day I was the THIRD MOST GOOGLED PERSON IN AMERICA! I haven’t looked back since.

Hal: The dress seemed so elaborate in 2009, but in the last year, we have seen fashion shift away from simplicity and back to focusing on clothes that feel and look special. Do you feel vindicated?

Naeem: No. Because what I do and how I see fashion has always felt natural to me. I like it defined by glamour and beads, light and radiance. Fashion should make you want to sing and dance and shine, elevated by luxurious fabrics, intricate embroidery and embellishment, and boasting an amazing cut that enhances a woman’s body.

Hal:What inspired this unshakeable aesthetic?

Naeem:Many things. I took inspiration from the grand dames of the 50’s like Vogue Editor Diana Vreeland and socialites likeBabe Paley.

Then there were princesses I saw growing up in my native country. I’d stare at them for hours, nothing how they dressed and accessorized, how they worked their clothes and jewelry in connection to how they moved. Style is really about how you hold and conduct yourself. And then there were designers I admired like Balenciaga, St. Laurent, and the great American designer of the 80’s Halston.

THERE IS ALWAYS ROOM FOR JEWELRY. THERE IS NEVER NO ROOM FOR JEWELRY. Remember, when the industry made a big deal about what they call “statement” necklaces. Except all jewelry is a statement about yourself and your personality.

Hal:Through having tagged along with your father on a meeting with the designer, you wound working with Halston. But his clothes are so clean and unadorned, very different from yours.

Naeem:But you work for others to learn craft not taste. Besides,Halston did LOVE sequins. He brilliantly understood cut and fabric and how women wanted to look modern so assisting there became part of my learning curve.

Hal:But you are hardly a minimalist.

Naeem:My greatest source of pride is India’s super rich culture. Luxury was invented there. India was the jewel in the crown of the British Empire, and coming from a family that has been in the embroidery business for generations, my parents doing what they did for the who’s who of the world, shaped how I look at beauty, fashion, celebration and the good life.

Hal:But if clothes are so ornate, can they also be ornamented.Coco Chanel used to preach restraint, by telling women to look in the mirror when you are finished getting dressed and then take one thing off?

Naeem:NO. NO. NO! THERE IS ALWAYS ROOM FOR JEWELRY. THERE IS NEVER NO ROOM FOR JEWELRY. Remember, when the industry made a big deal about what they called “statement” necklaces. Except all jewelry is a statement about yourself and your personality. I always remember seeing the gypsies when I was a child, wearing all that hand beaten metal stuff around their necks, hanging from ears, their ankles covered in silver and gold.

Hal:Ok, but that’s a lot.

Naeem:Of course it is. But the point is jewelry gives you identity. It highlights your presence. Anyone can be shy and safe. But in this day and age when so many are vying for attention, don’t you want to walk into the room and own it? For me, there is nothing better. Jewelry and sequins, all that sparkles, is about celebrating life. We have only so many days to live on.

THE GOSPEL OF NAEEM

NAEEM KHAN’S 10 KEYS TO FINDING YOUR STYLE

1. If you want to make a statement, be bold and add another layer of sparkle. Minimalism is sometimes an excuse for playing safe. But don’t pile it on. Experiment with different ideas, but don’t be afraid to try and fail. Style takes time

2. Look to your heritage for inspiration. I am so proud of the my colorful diversity of my Indian culture. Indian jewelry is extraordinary. Explore the elements that make yours so special and adapt what excites you.

3. Check out the elegance of the past. Social media
doesn’t have all the answers. Look to see how people
dressed back when style seemed essential, even just to get
on a plane.

4. Travel. One of the best ways to discover new things new to love are to leave what you know and head for somewhere that you don’t. It’s amazing when you can learn from somewhere that has a different ways of expressing beauty

5. Find a style hero. It could be your mother, a film star
or anyone who you think gets attention for all the right
reasons. Don’t copy them. But observe what they
do and how they dress to get others to notice them.

6. The magic of a beaded gown is that it lets light define the
contours of your body. But when you are wearing embellished clothes, don’t believe that’s all the shine you need. Jewelry completes the picture. And the bigger the gown, the bigger the jewels. This is no for understatement

7. In India, our weddings take days, even weeks. So as far as I’m concerned, in America you have to pack and awful lot of fun and glamour in just one day. Don’t hold back. And don’t hide behind your veil. Revel in the day.

8. Your wedding should be all about harmony. So your gown
should match your jewelry, your location, your food. Don’t wear a beaded gown on the beach. Don’t walk down the aisle of a cathedral in a skirt suit. Also comfort is essential, so check out linings of your dresses. Finally, the bigger the wedding, the more jewelry you are allowed to wear.

9. You only have so many days in this life. You need to
celebrate every one of them. Every day when you get up, first
do something to stay healthy. And then adorn yourself
second. They are both equally important

10. If you want to be a memorable woman, being a fascinating
personality is much more important than being a great beauty.
And always carry yourself like you are worth $10 million.