Not sure if this is what you're asking but I use the ND20 with two Ike DS 125's and the Ike TTL sync chord and connectors. My ND20 has 2 connectors on it. One that is manual only and one that accommodates the TTL. They both connect to a small circuit board in the housing. There is a switch on the Ike sync chord that allows you to switch between TTL and manual while in the water so I pretty much only use the TTlL connector on the housing. But as a backup, I have the standard chord that I can hook up to the housing for use with the 125's or my old 100a substrobes.

That's a great solution (the new Ike cord w/ built in converter). If you don't have Ike strobes, I think you can get the Heinrich's converter, or you can get the Sea and Sea converter which is "removable" if you don't want to use it.

For my Subal-housed D200 with Inon strobes, I use the Sea & Sea TTL convertor III. It works well. The Heinrichs TTL circuit also works, although having a bare circuit board stuck to the inside of the housing with bubble gum isn't confidence-inspiring, and you can't switch from TTL to manual with the housing closed.

For my Subal-housed D200 with Inon strobes, I use the Sea & Sea TTL convertor III. It works well. The Heinrichs TTL circuit also works, although having a bare circuit board stuck to the inside of the housing with bubble gum isn't confidence-inspiring, and you can't switch from TTL to manual with the housing closed.

Check out the Heinrichs site - they have a new in-cable iTTL converter, a la Ikelite, but for most TTL-capable strobes.