Monday, July 19, 2010

On the Road to Touba and St. Louis

The trip to St. Louis, a good five hours on the road, took us through Diourbel (jur-bell), which is important to the Muride Sufi Brotherhood because it was the home of AmadouBamba (1853 - 1927), founder. The main mosque in Diourbel was a photo stop for us.

Upon arrival in Touba, long skirts or dresses and head coverings were required of the women in our group. We were escorted by members of the Muride Sufi Brotherhood through a series of girls' classrooms, the library, administrative offices, and around the perimeter of the main mosque. We were not allowed to enter the mosque because the current Caliph had died the week before we arrived, and non-Muslims may not enter during the mourning period. Update: That's what I understood at the time of our visit, but I've read since, that the mosque is only open to Muslims at all times. The education of young children is important to the Islamic community, and in Touba there is a structure and enough money to provide the curriculum required by the state, along with religious and cultural education. The school has been operating since 2006 and started with the earlier grade levels, so when we asked about state testing scores, we were told that the students hadn't reached that level yet, but that they are working with the Arab government on a mastery test which would be the equivalent of the baccalaureate.Kindergartners These girls are probably around 2nd grade. Their teacher didn't miss a beat as we crowded into her classroom. They snap their fingers and raise their hands to be called on to answer a question. (I won't be adapting that custom into my classroom.) Most Americans are offended when snapped at. Me and Suzanne Amy and me. Note the gift shop behind us. Some teachers in our contingent were intrigued by the, what we call "man purses" which are worn by Muslim men. It seems they are used to carry necessary papers, scriptures from the Qur'an, and so forth. An old photograph of the main mosque in Touba during a pilgrimage that celebrated the return from exile of the CheikhAmadouBambaMbacke. This pilgrimage takes place yearly, shortly after Ramadan, which does not happen on the same date each year, because the Islamic calendar is used.

An extensive library holding the writings of AmadouBamba and others is quite impressive. I didn't have my notebook with me, but if I remember correctly, one of the caliphs is buried under the library.

ShaykhBaraMbacke, the sixth Caliph and the first not to be the son of AmadouBamba, passed away a week before our arrival in Dakar.

Continuing on our journey,with our final destination being St. Louis, roadside vistas changed from the city and suburban sights we were used to seeing, to more pastoral, agricultural scenes. Whenever we saw either herds of cattle, goats, or donkeys, there were usually young boys shepherding, or minding the livestock. In this photo, the boys are leaning against a concrete pillar. The electric lines are strung on towers made of concrete, not wooden poles like I am used to seeing in the states.

Goats are literally everywhere in the parts of Senegal I have visited. These men tended theirs along the roadside as we drove through this town.

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Short videos of the countryside, first and then a rural town seen as we drove from the city of Dakar to St. Louis

Voila! My room at Hotel Cap St. Louis has four beds, and I have no roommate. I would have to rotate beds every two hours to take advantage of them! (Actually, sleeping for eight hours is something I've done just once here.) The mosquito nets were provided for good reason. St. Louis is where I got buzzed and bitten most often until now. (Back in Dakar at this writing) However, the biggest critter I shared my room with was a lizard. I only saw him once, but I felt his presence continuously. . . (space between ellipses for Suzanne)

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Other Blogs About the Fulbright Seminar in Senegal

Getting the perspective of this trip from colleagues who traveled with me is refreshing. If you have enjoyed scrolling through my reflections about Senegal, you may enjoy checking out these other blogs kept during the same study seminar.

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About Me

One might think that the very young are quite different than older folks. I propose that we are all the same in one major way... We love a good story, and the best stories come from real life. History is full of tantalizing, sorrowful, tragic, and wonderful stories. Most exciting of all is the fact that we are all writing our own stories at this very moment. The choices we make will affect others' stories, and in no time at all, we become the stories that will be told in the future. I have had the opportunity to travel the tiniest bit, and each time I visit a new-to-me place in the world, I feel as though I have been changed. Touched by the people I meet and their stories, I can't wait to share those stories with my students, my colleagues, and my family. If any of the discoveries I make along the way are useful to you as well, all the better.