after tightening the differential screw for a while nothing was happening. the screw seemed to be slipping and was not tightening or loosening. I have been told that i possibly snapped the diff screw and if so how do i fix it? can i do it myself without a hobby shop involvement?

Track was alright, you electric guys are just going to have to get used to that kinda stuff!

Good to hear you're safe after that starter box almost got you

camp - What car are you working on?

If you snapped the diff screw on a ball diff (like those in Losi and Associated cars) the diff won't work. You should be able to spin one tire and the other one won't move.

You should take the tranny out and apart, and the diff will probably just fall apart (there won't be anything holding it together). Make sure all the parts are ok, like the gear, rings, balls, outdrives, etc. and put it back together with a new screw and nut.

More than likely, you stripped the screw or nut that holds the diff together. You'll have to go through the same process to fix that.

I had front row seats for The Great Fire of 2007. I was too amused to start laughing and risk missing any of the action. Joe The Firefighter was pretty liberal with that garden hose too. I was very impressed!

I don't think I saw your tumble specfically, but I saw a few cars test the strength of that safety net several times throughout the day.

well everyone that ive talked to does not like the ez start
and they say like that a glow starter (u now the one with the battery and no cord connecting to the back where u put the ez start).
because after a few starts the battery in the ez start becomes weak and turns the motor but does not heat the glow plug instantly and the becomes oiled up and wont start

Hey Aaron do you think you can give me a complete run down on tuning the mf2 outside of the basic setups? I know guys have been some times using softer shock towers from the first xxx-t for blown out tracks and running a washer under the rear pivot to increase on power stearing on any track that offers decent traction. Is there anything else to know? Do you know if the ea3 chasis has shown any promise on the truck? I know some people are running the cr stearing rack because it increases stearing, but do you technicaly know what it does for the car, or is it just a better design for the rack? I haven't gotten a chance to run the truck w/ any of the new products yet as the season is just starting.

I don't have any numbers, but Spektrum advertises both their air and surface units (both add-on modules and complete radio systems, I believe) to continue to transmit a signal until the vehicle is too far away to control safely.

I wonder how far away that 'safe distance' is? Give or take a few yards....has anyone here managed to go out of range with their 2.4GHz radio?

Aaron... I'm running the XXX-T MF2 in a stock truck class using Novak 13.5 brushless and MaxAmps 6000 lipo. Is there some setups suggestions you could give to make the truck work with that setup without adding weight. I've only had one race day so far with the Matt Francis basic setup but will be trying the Adam Drake basic setup soon. Most guys at the track recommend adding weight to the rear. I don't have a huge problem adding the weight but I don't want to give up the one advantage I seem to have with a lighter truck if I can make it work well without it.

I would think the basic setup would be find for the motor/esc combo. The only reason you would add weight in the rear is give you more rear traction, however w/ that combo you shouldn't have traction problems and adding weight will actualy cause the trucks rear end to swing around more frequently.

Mr. Waldron before you ran a Losi with their type of clutch what type of clutch would you run? Aluminum or composite? I've been running an aluminum shoe clutch that seems to get really hot and I was wondering if this is normal the clutch bell starts to blue after a couple of runs.