Lee 40/10mm deluxe dies

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Gents,
I am just getting into reloading and I purchased the Classic Turret from Lee. I have everything mounted and am currently trying to get the Lee Deluxe 4 die set ready to go. I think after buckling a 4-5 cases, I finally figured out that the directions for the 40/10mm are for the 40 cal cases when installing the powder die and the bullet seating die. Was wondering if I am the only idiot that did that?

Finally just backed the powder die out until is just barely flares the case and then backed the bullet seat die out and fine tuned the bullet seat adjustment to get 1.255 to 1.26 OAL and let the crimp die do the crimping.

Any other suggestions for a newb with respect to getting the dies set correctly? I will post a pic of my new setup when I get it all ready. I do like the way the Lee Auto Prime and Auto Disk seem to work with the auto indexing turret. Seems like a really good setup. We'll see after a bit!

Gents,
I am just getting into reloading and I purchased the Classic Turret from Lee. I have everything mounted and am currently trying to get the Lee Deluxe 4 die set ready to go. I think after buckling a 4-5 cases, I finally figured out that the directions for the 40/10mm are for the 40 cal cases when installing the powder die and the bullet seating die. Was wondering if I am the only idiot that did that?

Finally just backed the powder die out until is just barely flares the case and then backed the bullet seat die out and fine tuned the bullet seat adjustment to get 1.255 to 1.26 OAL and let the crimp die do the crimping.

Any other suggestions for a newb with respect to getting the dies set correctly? I will post a pic of my new setup when I get it all ready. I do like the way the Lee Auto Prime and Auto Disk seem to work with the auto indexing turret. Seems like a really good setup. We'll see after a bit!

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no, not the only one. If I had it to do all over, I would have use the first hundred brass and bullets to make dummy rounds. Then pulled the bullets and perfect each step over and over. I'm still learning. Practice makes perfect.Read all info on dies. Theres alot on youtube about lee dies also. Goodluck.

Thanks Snapper2. Luckily, I did just use once fired brass from my trips to the range and loaded dummy rounds. Still couldn't figure out what was wrong while staring at 10mm brass with a bullet just barely seated and a buckled case that was eerily the same length as a 40 cal shell!

Another question I had was during the powder die flare step, does the case/ turret handle have just a small catch on the up stroke when removing the case from the die? Mine is doing that ever so slightly and didn't know if the flare step was done after the powder was dropped and that is what I am experiencing. Thanks again for you taking the time to help. It is appreciated.

Another question I had was during the powder die flare step, does the case/ turret handle have just a small catch on the up stroke when removing the case from the die? Mine is doing that ever so slightly and didn't know if the flare step was done after the powder was dropped and that is what I am experiencing. Thanks again for you taking the time to help. It is appreciated.

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Yes, that is normal. Someday when you have a case neck split or get a 40-cal case mixed in you will suddenly not feel the little catch. It's a message to you lol.

I have to do the same thing when I switch between 38spl and 357 magnum. Reset all the dyes. The directions for the dye set up is for .40. Resize de prime should be the same, but powder and seating dyes have to be adjusted out for the longer case. The flair happens at the same time as the powder dump. The case pushes up against the flair mouth as it pushes the powder drop into the case. When you reach the top, its flared and filled.

The die makers used to make a set of spacer rings (Redding) which can be used to adjust the dies up or remove to adjust dies down for this purpose. This works well with dies with good locking rings to maintain settings.

Thanks for all of the replies guys. Just thought you would get laugh out of the flared too little, flared too much, too much bullet depth, etc. cases and dummy rounds. The dummy round on the far right is the finished 1.26 OAL.

I also included some picks of my setup. I finally got everything set up for the 10mm and have the disk ready to drop 5.4 grains of Titegroup (180 gr bullet). I will be verifying the powder drops next and should be ready for my first loads! I know these are lighter loads but will work up from there. Thanks again for the help.

The load data for most of the reloading manuals and the powder manufacturer list 6 grains as a max load so I figured I would start light and work up. I haven't seen anyone use 7 grains of Titegroup in a 10mm with 180 grain bullet but I am just getting started. Figured better safe than sorry! Thanks for the input.

I don't put any crimp on my bullets at all - - BUT, I only flare the mouth JUST enough to allow the bullet to be seated into the case evenly.

This probably is not the right way to do it, and in addition, I did over flare the mouth on one cartridge. I suppose if I hadn't reloaded rifle cartridges in the past, I would have done the same thing you did by crushing down the cases like that.

The bullet on the far right and the one just to the left of that one looked good from what I could see - I expect they both had the same crimp on them, just one is longer than the other?

I have been using 1.25" COAL for most of my 10mm hand loads. One thing I noticed is that the double tap rounds I purchased were loaded to a COAL of approximately 1.24"...

Looking forward to buying a chrono one of these days so I can do some playing around with some of these different specs of the round.

People, people, people...if you want quality 100% reliable hadloaded ammunition for semiauto pistols do yourself a favor seat bullets to depth without any crimp being applied, then taper crimp to remove the flair or secure the bullet in a seperate step. It is that simple! There are spacer rings which can be utilized to raise the seater die up to avoid the crimp application...Redding still makes these and Midway USA still sells them...http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=189290

One ther thing those who are utilizing used brass especiall 40S&W invest in a push thru sizer die like the Lee or Redding, this will insure that you are getting a full sizing of the brass...to many bulged cases near the extractor cut. If not sized all the way your cartridge may not pass a cartridge gauge test.

I seat and crimp in separate steps. For volume loads, I use plated bullets. They perform better when seating before crimping because they peel very easily. This is especially a problem with mixed brass of different lengths and thickness. Everything else is generally for precision. Seating then crimping is in order.

As far as re-sizing goes, my RCBS carbide die sizes pretty low on the brass. Cleans up the bit of Glock belly.

In just the last few months, I've loaded on the order of 25,000 rounds of ammo, most of which has been shot already. I load with a good crimp, even on plated bullets. I have pretty good accuracy, I don't know if what remains is me or the ammo since I'm not the best shot. I also seat and crimp in one die. Is it better to do it in two different steps? Maybe, but I haven't seen a difference when I've done it and based on my experience and the lack of phone calls about my ammo, I'd call either way ok.

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