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Check your rear shocks. On the fender, push with your body going down. Upon releasing, your car should go up and down one time then settle. If it goes beyond or hesitate to move, you have a problem with your shocks. I think you also have a problem with the shock absorber bush. It does not matter if you have a new or old shock absorber. The lifespan of the shocks depends on the way you drive on bumpy roads.

Replace them with air shocks. I just bought mine on line for 67 dollars each compared to $100.00 + each anywhere else. Nothing else will fit. Change over kits are very expensive and require special tools to do the job let alone the time it will take to do the job.

Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder.
CAUTION Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.

Remove the brake line from the brake hose.

Disconnect the brake hose from its bracket on the shock absorber.

Loosen, but do not remove, the nut holding the suspension support to the shock absorber.

Unbolt the shock absorber from the rear arm.

Unbolt and extract the shock absorber from the body.
To install:

Attach the shock absorber to the body and tighten the 3 nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Engage the shock absorber bracket with the carrier and install the hardware. Tighten the nuts to 119 ft. lbs. (162 Nm).

Tighten the center suspension support nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). There is a bearing located under the suspension support dust cover. Remove the dust cover and pack the bearing with multi-purpose grease. Once packed, reinstall the dust cover.

The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.

Yes, they are a sealed unit, and once they start leaking, then you have to replace them, i would recomend replacing them with an aftermarket set, such as Koni, or KYB, there are many to choose from, cheaper than a standard set too.The same applies if your bike has a single rear shock absorber, replacements are available.

example
A1 = 5
B1 = 6
C1 = A1+B1 which will make C1 show 11
type in C1 = then move cursor (arrow key) over to A1 then type + then move cursor to B1 then hit enter - formula showing in C1 on top should show
=A1+B1 and valud in cell should show 11

with great difficulty,three bolts hold the plate that takes the top bush/mounting .jack vehicle up and support with axle stand .Another jack under rear axle ,jack this one up till cars starts to lift then fit the spring clamps and compress the spring.Next undo the 3/4 13mm headed bolts that hold the plate to the chassis ,if you can release them???---??? ,then next using a small bottle jack take the strain on the bottom of the shock absorber and then remove the bolt ,lower the jack and the top one will lower as well ,undo the two nuts on the top mounting and pull the old shock absorber out .Or what i do if back is dancing and thats to do as above to support vehicle ,support lower of shock absorber ,remove the bolt and then jack it up ,then drill a small hole about an inch from the top of the tube and then thread it ,refill the shock absorber with a heavier oil like dextron .fit a bolt into the hole with a rubber washer and its as good as new

This is a dangerous job if you do not have the proper equipment for compressing the spring that is around the rear shock. I do not recomend performing this job without the proper equipment. Unloading the spring without it compressed can cuase injury.

If you have the proper equipment this is how you do it.

REMOVAL - SHOCK ASSEMBLY
NOTE:Access for the nuts attaching the rear shock assembly upper mount to the vehicle is through the inside of the trunk.

Roll back carpeting on top of the rear shock tower to access shock mounting nuts.