Just wondered if anyone seen this before – under heavy acceleration from a dead stop, I get a squealing sound out of my Sakura. It’s only for a second, and as soon as I get some momentum, it goes away.

I bought the car used and fully assembled, and it was apparently raced for an entire season before I got it. Any thoughts?

Loose belts, loose or worn diff gears, worn front cv outdrive cups especially if you have a front spool. its not uncommon for a sakuta to have a whine to it but it is throughout the whole rpm range. if its acceleration and it goes away you have probably correctly identified that the car has a problem.

Lol. don't know why everyone seems to love the hard bumper. I have 2 years of heavy racing on my stock bumper without any problems. Haven't tried the 416 rear bulkhead. stock carbon fiber piece has always worked great for me but a lot of people seem to like the upgrade. I see where it does provide more action directly on top of the axle so it could affect the overall feel of the car. I also have an xi that mounts the rear shocks and bulkhead the same way as the 416 mod. car feels smoother than a zero but I see no difference in lap times.

good list and I'm glad you got your sakura dialed in. its fun to run with the x rays and associated cars for a fraction of the cost.

I'm the same with my Zero S, it's very close to the setup of yours except I'm still using the Zero shocks (alloy) standard tie rods, standard front & rear shock towers and standard lower deck.

I also have a full race spec Zero with the narrow lower deck, but I like how the Zero S drives as it seems more forgiving, planted & easier to drive. I gave my buddy a drive of my S and I had trouble getting my controller out of his hands.

With a few key upgrades the S can be a very competitive car for a fraction of the cost of other cars. I'm also thinking of getting one of the Sakura XI Sport car when they come available as I believe they also will be a very good & inexpensive car straight out of the box.

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybobb

Finished my body for the Zero S, hoping to get it to the track this weekend hopefully. First race will be on the 14th. Hope you guys like it.

Just wondered if anyone seen this before – under heavy acceleration from a dead stop, I get a squealing sound out of my Sakura. It’s only for a second, and as soon as I get some momentum, it goes away.

I bought the car used and fully assembled, and it was apparently raced for an entire season before I got it. Any thoughts?

Yeah what Ta said above, you can preorder the XI sport at www.tqrcracing.com for 127.99 with free shipping. For the extra $19 dollars you get better gear diff in the real and a spool in the front along with CVDs all around and some other upgrades. The zero s is sold out. If you can wait, the XI sport is suppose to ship by the end of the month

Yeah what Ta said above, you can preorder the XI sport at www.tqrcracing.com for 127.99 with free shipping. For the extra $19 dollars you get better gear diff in the real and a spool in the front along with CVDs all around and some other upgrades. The zero s is sold out. If you can wait, the XI sport is suppose to ship by the end of the month

I'm not sure if it's a better gear diff on the XI sport. It still has the steel outdrives similar to the Zero S as opposed to the alloy outdrives which use the small plastic "cushions" that you clip over the pins of the drive shaft.

The turn buckles look a better design that are similar to the titanium ones.

I'm not so sure the plastic spool with the plastic out drives would be better, I'd be worried about snapping them like the old plastic out drives on the alloy spool (I upgraded mine to the metal ones).

The first upgrades I'd recommend for the XI Sport would be.
Alloy shocks as they do make a big difference to the car!
Alloy Spool with metal out drives.
Servo Saver - if it's the same as the one that comes with the Zero S then it's rubbish.

I cant be 100% positive but i believe the stocks are aluminum and they are threaded. It would be pointless to thread plastic. The front spool has the same drive cups that will be on the ultimate. I would rather have the spool then a gear diff in front. Looking at the pics there isnt even a servo saver included unless it is in the dual bell crank.

I cant be 100% positive but i believe the stocks are aluminum and they are threaded. It would be pointless to thread plastic. The front spool has the same drive cups that will be on the ultimate. I would rather have the spool then a gear diff in front. Looking at the pics there isnt even a servo saver included unless it is in the dual bell crank.

You can find threaded plastic shocks on the Sports version of the Serpent 411. The 3 racing alloy shocks normally have a grey coloured body as opposed to black, plus in this picture you can see the molding flash on the black part just under the alloy top cap.

Depending on the setup of a car and the track you race at sometimes a gear diff up front is better. I use a gear diff up front with 500,000 weight "oil" in the front, this acts like a spool but has a little "give" to have more turn in into corners, and it's still stable under braking.
A gear diff up front is also kinder to the front uni's and they won't wear out as much as they do with a spool.
Not saying a spool doesn't work, which it does very well but just giving my own personal preferences.

That being said, my other car used to use a spool up front and a ball diff in the rear. I have replaced the ball diff with a gear diff and left the spool up front as the car seems more happy with a spool in it.

Even if there isn't a servo saver included I think I'd still use an after market one even though my servo has metal gears.

The oil that is supplied in the kit for the diffs is way too heavy for the rear diff. It's fine for the front diff but in the rear it will make the car spin out easily.
Get some 500-700 weight shock oil and use that in the rear diff, it will allow the rear diff to spin freely rather than being hard to turn.
(If you cant get some, use the thinner oil that came with the kit for the shocks.)
If the rear diff is very hard to turn it's almost like having a solid axle in the rear which is what the drift guys do, but not something you want.

When building the diff with very light oil make sure you use plenty of grease on the seals, especially the 2 O ring seals. Also coat the center seal fully with grease and the areas in the diff where the seals sit.
This will help to seal the oil in and lubricate the seals on the out drives, and act as a seal under the heads of the diff screws as you tighten them.

Also make sure you sand the diff housing with the screw holes flat, as that will help to seal the 2 halves together without having to over tighten the screws that hold the diff together.

Lastly, if you're using the servo saver that came with the kit - ditch it. The kit one is rubbish and try to get a better one, the Tamiya high torque ones work rather well.

Cheers
Rob.

This definitely worked. Thank you. As for the servo saver, I am just using a servo horn from a sprint 2 right now. The servo saver it came with, was rubbing against the belt, and my Savox is screwed into the furthest hole possible. Is there a different servo saver I can use that isn't as thick as the stock one?

Also, would a rear sway bar set help keep the rear from spinning out in corners?

I'm not sure if it's a better gear diff on the XI sport. It still has the steel outdrives similar to the Zero S as opposed to the alloy outdrives which use the small plastic "cushions" that you clip over the pins of the drive shaft.

The turn buckles look a better design that are similar to the titanium ones.

I'm not so sure the plastic spool with the plastic out drives would be better, I'd be worried about snapping them like the old plastic out drives on the alloy spool (I upgraded mine to the metal ones).

The first upgrades I'd recommend for the XI Sport would be.
Alloy shocks as they do make a big difference to the car!
Alloy Spool with metal out drives.
Servo Saver - if it's the same as the one that comes with the Zero S then it's rubbish.

Cheers
Rob.

Thanks guys. I just have a t3 2012 for 17.5 duties. This was just a passing thought for a VTA roller. Would I still need all those upgrades for a weak 25.5 turn novak motor?