Understanding and Combating Dry Winter Skin

The winter season presents a variety of challenges for people and pets. Dry skin is something we can all be affected by – two-legged or four-legged.

Dryness in the air, whether it be cold winter wind or dry heat indoors, can reduce or eliminate the moisture-locking oil barrier on the surface of the skin. Skin that is most exposed to the air is most vulnerable to losing this protective layer. We, as people, notice it most on our face and hands. For our pets, areas at most risk are dependent on how much hair they have and where it grows!

For any dog, the nose is always vulnerable as it is always exposed. Other areas at risk of high exposure are ears and bellies. Paw pads are especially vulnerable in the winter months because they are not only exposed to dry air, but also to ice, cold concrete, salt and rough terrain.

Some breeds are more at risk than others. Brachycephalic breeds (dogs with shortened/flattened faces; example, pugs) have difficulty licking their noses due to the anatomy of their face, so they are less able to wet their noses, putting them at even higher risk in dry conditions. Breeds that are short-coated, with more exposed skin on their ears and bellies (example, boxer) may experience dry skin in these areas as well. Finally, hairless breeds are fully exposed and many more areas can be affected.

There are a variety of strategies we can implement to prevent or treat dry skin in winter time.

Winter apparel can limit the exposure of some areas, but what about the areas that are difficult or not possible to cover up?

First and foremost, we must support the skin from the inside-out: with nutrition. It is important to support total nutrient requirements of the body. If some requirements are not met, the body will direct nutrients to essential body functions and may not allocate enough to the skin. This can compromise the health and function of skin.

Nutrients to pay close attention to:

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs): Essential omega-3 and -6 PUFAs are the most important nutrients for maintaining moisture in the skin. Essential PUFAs are assimilated into epidermal cell membranes and are an integral part of cell structure. They are also components in the extracellular lipid matrix – this is the oil barrier on the surface of the skin, and is directly related to moisture retention and permeability of the skin’s surface by preventing trans-epidermal water loss.

Vitamin A: important for cell reproduction and growth. Skin cells are continuously regenerating and it is important to support this process in order for the structural integrity of the skin to be maintained.

Vitamin C: strong antioxidant activity; plays a role in collagen production. Preventing oxidative damage and supporting skin structures are important for keeping the skin healthy.

Vitamin B5: attracts and binds to water. Used topically on the skin, it can help to lock in moisture.

“Complete and Balanced” diets should provide enough of each of these nutrients for maintenance requirements. However, in dry conditions, requirements for some of these nutrients may be elevated beyond normal maintenance levels. Increasing feed rate is one way to increase nutrient intake without changing the balance of vitamins, but excess calories may not be tolerated by some pets. Sometimes supplements can be introduced.

The most important and safest supplements to introduce are fatty acid supplements. There is no concern with upsetting the carefully calculated vitamin balance in your dog’s commercial diet like there is with vitamin supplements (if you feel a vitamin supplement might benefit your pet, consult your veterinarian). Omega-3 and omega-6 supplements are readily available for purchase. Fish oil and flax oil are examples of high omega-3 sources; sunflower oil and chicken fat are examples of high omega-6 sources.

*A Note on Coconut Oil: Coconut oil is a popular go-to for dry skin but it may not be the solution your pet requires. Coconut oil is DEFICIENT in essential fatty acids and is composed of primarily SATURATED fatty acids, not the beneficial PUFAs, so it is not a good dietary additive to improve or prevent dry skin. It can be used topically to temporarily relieve symptoms of dry skin, but since it is a comedogenic oil (plugs skin pores), it should not be the long-term solution to dry skin.

Topical products to consider are those that moisturize and protect the skin without clogging the natural oil ducts.

Moisturizing shampoo followed with moisturizing conditioner can be beneficial to the whole body. A soothing oatmeal shampoo and conditioner can be a great start to a moisture-replenishing regimen by cleansing dirt and debris and leaving the skin clean and pH balanced (make sure to only use products that are formulated for pets, since the pH of their skin is different from ours). From this stage, moisturizing and protective products can be applied to treat or prevent dry skin. It is important, however, to limit bathing to once a month. Excessive bathing can end up having an opposite effect to what we desire, by stripping away natural oils, leaving the skin dry and unprotected.

Beeswax is a natural substance that seals in moisture and acts as a barrier to cold air without clogging pores in the skin so they can continue to function optimally. It is also antiviral and antibacterial which is especially important for dry, cracked skin that is more vulnerable to infection.

Paws are especially at risk during cold weather. Paw pads can become irritated and cracked in the winter not only because of dry air but also due to road salt, cold surfaces and rough/abrasive terrain. The best solution for this challenge is prevention and protection! Some dogs will tolerate boots, which offer the best protection against salt, cold and rough surfaces. However, many dogs strongly dislike the sensation of wearing boots. In these cases, paw balm is a great solution. It creates a barrier on the paw pad surface to protect against winter hazards. Natural combinations of wax and oils protect the surface of pads while allowing perspiration to escape (remember, dogs sweat through the pads of their feet so this is very important to maintain healthy pads and avoid infection). Antiseptic and protective beeswax is a great option for pads as a barrier and to encourage moisture retention as well as healing.

Moisturizers can be used short term to help cracked pads heal. Products with high oil content which are intended to soften skin should be avoided as long-term solutions because the function of the pads of the feet relies on toughness, not softness. The softer the pads are, the more vulnerable they are to cuts and abrasions – this is not ideal, especially when traversing frozen winter terrain. Once pads are healed, products intended to maintain moisture and protect the pads are best.

No matter what you and your pet like to do in the winter, it is important to give them what they need to be healthy and comfortable. Proper nutrition and protective layers ensure your pet can enjoy any winter activity, whether they are bounding through the snow or tucked in on the couch.

Understanding Glycemic Index & Glycemic Load in Pet Foods

GLYCEMIC INDEX is a measure of the relative rate of how fast and how high blood sugar levels rise after a specific carbohydrate is eaten relative to the rate of increase in blood sugar levels if the meal consisted of only the simple sugar glucose. The higher the glycemic index the faster the rise in blood sugar levels and the higher the concentration of sugar in the blood. In contrast the lower the glycemic index the slower the rise in blood sugar levels and the lower the concentration of sugar in the blood. Glycemic indices are rated as high >70, moderate 55-70 and low <55.

Diabetes is associated with high blood sugar levels so there is an inference that if the blood sugar levels are kept low it will help to manage diabetes and may help to prevent diabetes from occurring. The management of diabetes is aided by managing blood sugar levels but whether low glycemic index foods prevent diabetes in pets is still unknown.

Glycemic indices have been developed for many food ingredients. Foods high in carbohydrates often have high glycemic indices but not always. For example, potatoes can have either a high or low glycemic index depending on the type of potato (cultivar), the preparation method, cooking time and temperature, whether the potato is eaten hot or cold, how the potato is formulated with other ingredients and the size of the meal. Hot mashed potatoes can have a high glycemic index of 70 to 80, while cold cooked potatoes mixed with protein and fats can have a low glycemic index in the range of 30 to 40.

GLYCEMIC LOAD: To further complicate the understanding of the effect of various diets on blood sugar levels one also needs to consider glycemic load. It is a mathematical assessment which attempts to predict the actual blood sugar level that will result from a complete meal, not just the individual ingredients. Glycemic load sums the glycemic indices from all of the ingredients together taking into consideration, how they are prepared and how they are served. Glycemic load is a much better predictor of blood sugar levels than simply glycemic index.

This table illustrates that the exact same diet formulation can have very different glycemic loads depending on how the diet is formulated and how the diet is served. Glycemic Load is highly dependent on preparation and presentation. Both diets A and B have identical carbohydrate inclusions but diet A has a high glycemic load and diet B has a low glycemic load.

Dogs VS Cats

Dogs can be trained quickly, some in a matter of minutes, to obey basic commands like ‘come’ and ‘sit.’Most cats are difficult if not impossible to train to respond to directives.

Most dogs take considerably longer to housebreak, and some just never get all the way there. Unlike with Fluffy, housebreaking a pup is usually a hands-on, time intensive project.Cats can be house-trained in an instant as long as they have access to a litter box. There’s really no training to it, in fact. It’s instinct.

Dogs are social beings. They want to be with their pack, wherever their pack may be.Cats are solitary by comparison and their primary attachment (when forced to choose) is to their territory rather than other two or four-legged animals.

Dogs have 42 teeth. Cats have 30.

Cats can jump and climb, giving them more options when they need to hunt for food, or when they feel threatened.
Dogs are earthbound, so they need their pack to hunt effectively. And when a threat triggers their fight-or-flight response, they are more likely to react with aggression because their ability to flee from a predator is limited.

Dogs are scavenging carnivores, which means although they are primarily meat-eaters, if necessary they can survive on plant material alone (remember, surviving is different than thriving).Cats are obligate or strict carnivores. Cats cannot sustain life without eating meat in some form.

Dogs in the wild catch their prey by running it down. They are long distance runners, not sprinters.Cats creep up on their prey and catch it by surprise. They are sprinters, not distance runners.

Cats cannot be fasted and should not be dieted down too quickly. Cats don’t efficiently burn fat reserves as an energy source. Instead, without food, their bodies break down non-fatty tissues for energy. This can lead to a life-threatening liver condition called hepatic lipidosis.Dogs are much better at using their fat reserves and can tolerate a lack of food for much longer than cats.

Cats have retractable claws that stay sharp because they are protected inside the toes.
Dogs claws are always extended and become blunt from constant contact with the ground when they walk.

Cats can remember up to 16 hours.A dog’s memory is only about five minutes long.

Spring cleansing for your pet

Grain-free pet food is all the rage, trending right up there with human food fads, which include Gluten-Free, Paleo, and the Wheat Belly Diet. Everyone wants to avoid carbohydrates. Is choosing a grain-free pet diet really giving you what we all want, a healthier pet? Certain carbohydrates should be avoided, but some are really beneficial for dogs. Let’s think about spring-cleaning our pets’ bodies with that fabulous carbohydrate: fibre!

Some commercial dry pet foods contain up to 70% carbohydrates even though dogs can make their own carbohydrates out of protein and fats. Even canned pet food usually contains carbohydrates to reduce the ‘free water’ in the can (so that it feels more solid when you shake it). The main reason for this is cost. Plant-based carbs are less expensive and more readily available energy sources than proteins and fats. The starchy carbs used to add structure and texture to kibble creates a shelf-stable product, making it possible to ship it all over the world. The cost benefit flows to you, the consumers too. Cheaply made, inexpensive pet food has become the norm, creating an industry, and a lot of spoiled consumers who balk at paying the true cost of a healthy diet for their pets.

Carbohydrates 101

The great difference among carbohydrate types is important to understand that as each type has a unique effect on your pet’s health. Most people are familiar with sugars and starches but it’s more complicated than that. Carbs can be divided into two categories:

Simple Carbs

Simple carbohydrates include sugars – sucrose, lactose, fructose – that break down quickly and are readily absorbed in the small intestine and converted into glucose. This is the basic nutrient required by all the organs of the body for its energy needs. Simple sugars are found in fruit, honey and sugar cane, for example. They’re tasty, but as we all know, too much is unhealthy, and can be deadly.

Complex Carbs

Complex carbohydrate may be further categorized into Starches and Fibre. Starches take more time to break down, requiring enzymes from the pancreas and intestinal wall before they can be absorbed and utilized. These carbs are the ones most often used in pet food. Starches come from the cell walls of a variety of plants including (a) grains, especially wheat, rice, corn, barley and oats; (b) vegetables such as potatoes, sweet potatoes and peas, and (c) beans including tapioca and soy. A whole range of foods contain starches, with some breaking down quickly into glucose (watermelon) and some more slowly (pumpkin). How quickly the starch breaks down and is absorbed into the bloodstream is what gives a carb its Glycemic Index (GI). Several factors influence a food’s GI including whether and how it is processed, ripeness (for fruit), how much the food is chewed and how quickly it is swallowed, and the fibre, acid and fat content. Foods with a high GI can potentially flood the bloodstream with glucose, raising the blood sugar level in the animal, wreaking havoc on the pancreas as it tries to keep up with producing insulin, the hormone required to resorb that glucose from the blood into the tissues and organs that need it. Eating a diet high in these kinds of starches and simple sugars (think breakfast cereal) is the basis for many chronic diseases which stem from the digestive system working so hard to absorb, digest, store and eliminate the products of all that glucose: diabetes, heart disease, inflamed bowel, obesity, and liver disease.

Fibre: The Good News

The other category of complex carbs is Fibre, and it’s the saving grace in any argument in favor of feeding carbohydrates to dogs. Actually an ‘empty’ carb because it offers few actual nutrients, it provides amazing service instead. Fiber types are either soluble or insoluble.

Soluble fibre

It forms a gel when mixed with liquid, binding with fatty acids, which in humans is especially helpful for lowering cholesterol. It helps prolong stomach emptying time, which slows the release of sugars, preventing large glucose and insulin spikes for diabetic dogs. Fibre is invaluable for regulating the transit time of the bowels. It will absorb water, helping to relieve diarrhea, and because it holds water, it also relieves constipation.

Insoluble fibre

It exits the body in pretty much the same shape as it entered, since it does not dissolve in water. Most complex carbohydrate sources will contain some insoluble fiber, the most common for pet foods being vegetable peels, beet pulp, peanut and soybean hulls, bran, cellulose and apple pectin. This fibre increases bulk in the colon, passing through like a bottlebrush, collecting toxic debris along the way. And fibre helps dogs feel full, which is really helpful for maintaining healthy weight.

Fibre quality makes a difference since some are fermented by intestinal microbes (bacteria) in the gut, affecting the water-holding capacity and bulk of the stool. For instance, slowly fermenting fibres (cellulose, peanut hulls) maintain their structure longer and thus hold more water, making them the better choice ingredient for a dog tending toward diarrhea. Rapidly fermenting fiber (apple pectin, soy) can produce a laxative effect. The over-use of cheap processed grain in pet food is one of the reasons for the epidemic of diabetes we have now among our pets. Feeding a diet high in good quality fibre can help control the swings in blood sugar that accompany this chronic disease by slowing digestion and absorption of starches. Whole grains that contain the bran, germ and endosperm of the grain kernel, which break down more slowly due to their outer fibrous hull, are therefore a quality carbohydrate for animals, especially those with blood sugar issues. Brown rice will have a very different effect on your dog than milled corn, for example, which has been stripped not only of its fibre but of its minerals too, especially B-vitamins.

Fibre is only found in plant foods, especially grains and seeds. Flora4 Ground Sprouted Seed mix contains a combination of soluble and insoluble fibre that performs beautifully as a 100% natural aid for diarrhea, constipation, and gas. Ignore the fads. A carefully selected diet containing whole food ingredients, including whole grains is a budget-friendly dietary choice benefitting your pet’s health that provides excellent nutrition per kilocalorie. And with all that fibre it will have your pooch’s insides clean as a whistle this spring.

Natural probiotics to the rescue!

First of all, what are probiotics, anyway? Everyone knows they help optimize our gut flora (the bacteria occurring naturally in the intestine), but really, what are these things? Where do they come from?

Probiotics are living microbes which have a beneficial effect on the host animal by contributing to its intestinal microbial balance. Acidophilus and bifidobacteria are the most common types of microbes used as probiotics, but there are over 30,000 species of microbes that interact to maintain a healthy intestinal environment! Probiotics tip the balance in the gut toward friendly bacteria and away from pathogenic bacteria which can cause gas, bloating, pain, diarrhea, skin and coat problems and other illness. They’re great for helping dogs and cats recover from most digestive disturbances, both chronic and acute.

Although there are lots of commercial products on the market in pill and liquid form for high retail prices, probiotics are naturally found in foods such as fermented vegetables (sauerkraut, and kimchee) and sprouted seeds, for example. These are proven to be, by far, much more effective than the lab-made strains available in bottles.

Why? Because science cannot imitate the naturally complex relationships of all of the species of microbes that interact in the gut to maintain a healthy intestinal environment. Neither has science yet discovered all the ways the body interacts with each of these species to produce the beneficial effect. But most importantly, recent research shows that if the probiotic microorganisms are allowed to establish their own symbiotic environment prior to being ingested by the host body, they are ‘hardier’, more able to re-establish their dominance, more able to withstand the heat and acid environment of the gut.

And finally, commercial probiotics are created by isolating individual strains of microorganisms which are then artificially stimulated to reproduce in a laboratory. In the final product, the selected probiotics have been separated from their intrinsic supporting microbes that were present in the original natural state. These supporting microbes are critical to the survival of the selected strain, so the absorption and use of the finished probiotic by the body will be greatly and significantly reduced.

This means that when a native probiotic found in food is ingested while still in its natural host environment it remains supported by the full range of original microorganisms that allow it to function. It will stay healthy, viable and be much more bio-available for absorption within the animal’s intestine. Now that’s something to toot about!

Why do dogs get so itchy especially in the winter?

Your animals’ skin is always sloughing off and renewing itself, just like our own. Have you noticed however, that as soon as we turn on the furnace in the fall our skin gets drier, and both you and your pets start to scratch and itch more frequently? You can apply creams and lotions but relief does not last as these external measures don’t cure dry flaky skin.

Don’t despair! You can get to the root of this problem with some preventative measurements and proper nutrition which are noted at the end of this article. But first, let’s get educated about that amazing organ protecting our insides: SKIN.

Skin becomes dry, flaky and itchy due to a number of factors, including: (1) old skin failing to slough properly (sometimes it just needs to be brushed); (2) underlying chronic illness including diabetes or hypothyroidism; (3) poor diet denying skin cells the nutrients required to replace themselves properly; or (4) environmental stress. ‘Winter itch’ is likely the result of a combination of factors, none of them dangerous, but all of them annoying.

The outermost layer, called the epidermis, makes the skin impermeable and protects the body from bacterial invasion and other environmental assaults. Also called the stratum corneum, the epidermis is composed of 3 major components that together create a physical wall enclosing the entire surface of the body, protecting it and preventing moisture loss.

Details of the 3 major components of the epidermis are noted on the left

Corneocytes:

Flattened, dead skin cells mainly composed of keratin plus other compounds called natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Keratin is a humectant (which means it holds water) that gives skin its strength. NMFs are also humectants that not only hold water but also attract it. So because they are also water-soluble, the skin dries out if you shower or swim too long or wash your hands too much.

Desmosomes:

The proteins that hold the corneocytes together.

Intercellular lipids:

Fats comprised of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. In the stratum corneum, their role is to prevent the loss of NMFs from within the corneocytes. These lipids have another super important function: they combine with sweat to form the crucial thin layer of ‘acid mantle’—the chemical barrier that kills bacteria and regulates moisture loss. Lipids also lubricate the skin and are a major factor in giving it a smooth texture.

Winter is Tough on the Skin

For the stratum corneum to properly protect the body, it must be elastic and flexible, which is only possible when the skin is properly hydrated to between 20-35%. Each day, it loses approximately one pint of water through trans epidermal water loss, the continuous process by which water leaves the body and enters the atmosphere via evaporation. However, when humidity drops, as it does in cold-weather months, there’s a dramatic increase in trans epidermal water loss as the dry air pulls moisture from the skin. When the skin’s water content drops below 10%, it begins drying out, causing itchiness and flakiness. With less water in the skin, the production of NMFs becomes impaired and lipid levels fall, setting in motion a vicious cycle that is hard to remedy. With less water and fewer lipids to lubricate and protect it, the skin no longer exfoliates properly, resulting in a buildup of dead cells on the skin’s surface, making it look flaky. Dry flaky skin can no longer properly heal itself, resulting in destruction of the protective acid mantle, which then leads to infections…and round and round it goes.

Common Sense Measures

You can minimize discomfort in your animal by applying moisturizers that can bring temporary relief by covering fissures in the skin, which helps to restore the barrier function of the epidermis. However you’ll be wise to follow some other simple practices for the prevention of the itch in the first place:

Give your animal fewer baths, and reduce water temperatures during winter. This is an essential step for those with dry skin, but should be followed for pets with healthy skin, as well. As mentioned previously, water leaches NMFs from the skin and affects its lipid content.

Make sure your animal drinks enough water and has a clean full bowl at all times.

Avoid the use of harsh soaps and detergents. These ingredients remove the skin’s acid mantle, thus increasing the rate of trans epidermal water loss. Use alcohol-free glycerin soaps.

Use a cool-mist humidifier in the home to maintain proper humidity levels. This will help skin maintain hydration by slowing the rate of trans epidermal water loss.

Prevention Begins with Nutrition for Beautiful Skin and Coat

To ensure the body has a ready supply of those all-important Intercellular lipids that give the skin smoothness, restores the acid mantle and promotes proper exfoliation, it is crucial to feed good quality FATS to your animal. This means foods naturally high in ‘good fats’ including the kind found in avocado, clean meats, eggs, fish and sprouted flax. The sprouted seeds mix in Flora4 Ground Sprouted Seeds is rich in Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA). ALA is a type of Omega 3 fat found in plant foods which cannot be manufactured by the body. Once consumed, ALAs can be converted into eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) – the kind of fat that creates those critical intercellular lipids. A scoop per day of Flora4 mixed into your animal’s food, whether you are feeding Carna4, a Raw Foods diet, or anything else –will make a huge difference in relieving and preventing itchy dry skin all year round. Try some for yourself too –Flora4 is 100% organic human-grade food, so don’t hesitate to put some in your own yogurt on those cold winter mornings when you’re feeling a little itchy.

K9 Coach – Be Prepared. How to Journey in Peace

With the summer coming up, we are often hit with wanderlust. That impulse to travel. To experience things from the open road and to soak in all the adventures that we can. So, pack a few things, put a bandana on Sparky and hit the trail, what could be more simple?

Yes, it all sounds great until reality hits. Taking a road trip takes planning and organizing for the whole family. Adding Sparky to the mix is a great idea, but keeping him in mind when preparing is a necessity. Let’s take a look at the big picture. You will be traveling by car, stopping at hotels or campgrounds, eating along the way and taking in the sights.

Safety first, make sure Sparky is secured properly in the car. A seat belt designed especially for dogs is a great idea and you can pick one up prior to the start of your trip. A lot of dogs feel safe traveling in their crate and this might be an option depending on the space you have.

Packing for your pooch is like packing for the kids. Make sure you have a supply of water and a non-spill dish. Make sure you bring some dog snacks and toys. There are a variety of stuff-able toys in your local Global Pet Foods store, which can have treats put into them. This will provide some entertainment for your dog, and keep him settled for a while. One reminder, make sure you pack all food, human and canine, in sealed packages. You don’t want to stop for a bathroom break and notice Sparky sitting on the back seat with his face covered in donut crumbs!

Another important point to keep in mind is that it may be difficult to stop for food. You might think that going into one of the rest stops on the highway will suffice, but I have found the line-ups to be very long in a lot of cases. An alternative to this is to use only drive-thru restaurants, or to pack a picnic lunch.

It is also a good idea to pack a expandable leash. At home your dog might not stray far, but out in nature…well, nature may call. Your dog might catch a scent he wants to follow or even seek out his own adventure. Best to leash him in unknown areas, for everyone’s sake.

Once you arrive at your destination it is time to get settled. If you are planning on staying at hotels along your route, you should have reservations made in advance. Make sure it is a pet friendly establishment.

Even if your dog is the quietest, best-behaved dog that you have ever met, still bring his crate into the room. If you intend on going out and leaving your dog in the room, he should be crated during that time. If you know you live with a barker, or a dog that might bark when he hears people outside the door, then please don’t leave him alone. It is unfair to the other patrons. Again, his chew toy stuffed with his favorite treats will help to keep his mind off activities going on around him.

A few more things to keep in mind. These days we carry cell phones so make sure that is the number on your dogs tag. Most of our dogs have microchips, but it is important for your dog to also have immediate contact info right on his collar. If the dog has to go to a shelter or Vet clinic to be scanned for his microchip, it might be a few days before you re-connect with your dog.

Also remember to research where the Veterinarians are along your route and take any paperwork with you that might be important in an emergency. If your pet has a prescription, take a script in case the medication ends up at the bottom of the lake during a canoe capsize. Your first aid kit should include enough bandage material to take care of a cut paw and even some canine bug spray that you’ll find at your local Global Pet Foods store.

If you’re heading to the US, make sure you check with the border beforehand, so you have the paperwork you need to cross. A road trip with Sparky can provide hours of fun and memories. Get prepared, take lots of pictures, and journey in peace.

K9 Coach – From Snowflakes to Flowers in Bloom

When winter is upon us, it is difficult to imagine that it will ever turn into spring. At the beginning of winter, it is hard to believe that we will ever see the snow melt. The winter doldrums seem to be inevitable and every year we wait for sunshine and BBQ season. You never see it happen, just one day it is there.

One of the best ways to cure the winter blahs, and to get ready for Spring, is to start an exercise program. Our dogs are great companions for one of the best fitness programs around…walking. In fact, many people find it easier to make a commitment to their furry companion than to make a commitment to themselves.

Starting a fitness program with your dog should be done step by step. It is not a good idea for either of you to overdue it at the beginning. Start slowly with a warm up, and work your way up to a brisk pace over time. Watch your dog for signs of fatigue, panting or slowing down and rest at appropriate times. Let’s face it…your own signs of fatigue may be evident long before your dog shows any

As we are now aware, this type of sustained aerobic activity can help reduce stress levels in humans. This type of exercise also affects dogs in a positive way. Many of us would prefer to spend the first couple of months of each year in hibernation, and during these times our television watching and Internet surfing becomes a larger part of our day. Our dogs do not have this type of distraction and therefore devise other ways to amuse themselves.

Many family pets become destructive during the winter months, often chewing household furniture and belongings. Dogs do suffer from stress related disorders, often from a change in routine. Getting your dog out, rain or shine or sleet or snow for regular daily exercise should help his stress levels and curb these unwanted behaviors. On top of that, a dog that is physically tired will have a lot less energy to spend chewing the table legs.

So, how much, and what type of exercise is required for your own dog? In some cases, there seems to be a point where the dogs get hyper active. Dog parks are great fun for dogs and people but sometimes can be too much of a good thing. They get into these groups and instead of “wearing out”, actually reach a point where they get into a frenzy.

One suggestion would be to watch your closely at the dog park and take notice of when his behavior changes. You can then use this guideline to cut your park visits a bit shorter, or to take a break from the group. Using your break to work on some obedience exercises to re-focus him can often help.

Given the correct amount of exercise, with a cool down period, you will notice that your dog should return home in a more relaxed state. The best idea when visiting the park is to walk there and back home. This walk should be about 15 minutes and on lead. This will provide the warm up and cool down periods needed. Many people drive to the park and home and the dog comes back into the house still in “park mode”.

It is important to remember that the cool down is equally important to the warm up. If your walk has been particularly strenuous, take an extra lap around the block at a slower pace.

The second part of an all-encompassing exercise program is to wear your dog out mentally. Using any obedience words, you have in your repertoire is a great way to tire your dog. Have him work for you. Have him do a nice heel to the park and back, sitting at all the curbs. Do a 15 to 20-minute obedience lesson each day, separate from your walks. Perhaps enroll in an advanced obedience class or get involved in a dog sport. Even teaching your dog tricks and putting him through his paces will help to tire him out.

The hardest part is usually getting started. Once you have settled into an exercise routine, the benefits will be so great that this habit will be hard to break, especially when you consider how important this time is for you and your dog to spend together. Come spring the pair of you will be in great shape and who knows, a marathon may be just around the corner.

K9 Coach – Home Alone

It’s fall once again, and the end to another great summer, spent at the cottage or time off at home. While this can be an exciting time for the kids with all the back to school events, it can be a stressful time for the four legged members of the family. Seeing it from their eyes, it may have been a summer of swimming, barking, playing and sleeping, or simply chilling out with the family on vacation. It can be a hard adjustment for some dogs to get back into the routine of spending time alone. Spending part of their day alone is something that most dogs learn to tolerate.

Not even the most devoted dog owners can afford to skip work in order to entertain Sparky. This is not something to feel guilty over. Let’s keep this all in perspective. Your dog has a fabulous life. He gets fed, walked, medical attention, play time and lots of love. In return, he might have to spend time during the day by himself.

Most adult dogs, who have not enjoyed summers at a cottage, may not feel the effects of a routine change. If they have not spent time away at a cottage, their roles are more defined, and the relationship with the family is more established. They often have some obedience training under their belts, and they will be content, as we are, to sit and laze in the sun.

It is the younger dogs and puppies that may be the most affected and may develop separation anxiety. Many people add puppies to their families during the summer, with the main reason being that they will have more time at home during the holidays, and can devote more time to the new baby pup. This can be a lot of fun, and certainly the concept is good. The trouble can come later, when we haven’t taken the time to give our puppies a routine. Heck, it’s the cottage….routine has gone out the window for everyone!

Try to spend a week or two getting your pup used to what his future will hold. Give him periods of time where he is left alone, even while the family is outside. These periods of time should not only be when he is all tired out from a long hike, but can also be during the mornings when he is active. After all, that will soon be his reality. A puppy that has become the center of attention of a family will often have a harder time later on adjusting to the fact that all eyes are no longer on him. If you have rules that he will need to follow at home, start to teach them now. If he won’t be allowed to be near you while you eat, this should be started at the outdoor BBQ area.

If he won’t be allowed on your couch at home, it is best to discourage him jumping up on the slightly used older couch on the cottage back porch. This will help to ensure that he understands that there are some rules, and you are consistent in following them. Always a great lesson for any dog.

If your pup has spent the majority of his young life at a cottage, you must keep in mind that the lifestyle during the summer can be a lot more active. What this means to the puppy owner may be a false sense of what their pup is like when he is less tired. I used to say a tired dog is a good dog, and now I know better. I now know that a tired dog is a tired dog, which happens to act good because he is tired, not necessarily because he is good.

If you have a pup who was stimulated with a lot of activity, especially outdoor activity, then you may see a huge change when your pup has a lot less to occupy his time. It is important when you get home from vacation that you keep up a level of activity that is suited to your dog’s age and breed. Mental stimulation in the name of training and activities should also be practiced daily. Take this time to enroll him into an appropriate training class, to make sure he keeps mentally stimulated.

Memories are something that are precious to us, and summers spent at the family cottage can be amongst the best. Nothing beats sharing that with your dog.

K9 Coach – Indoor Fun

Have you noticed that your dog seems to be more unruly than ever? It is common to see him pacing the hallway, counter surfing and dropping toys at your feet? This is a common time of year that has people picking up the phone to make that inevitable call to their trainer. It starts with the same lament, ”my dog used to be so good, and recently all his training has gone out the window”.

This is a fairly common problem, but still one that will frustrate most dog owners. It is very likely that there has not been enough stimulation, physical or mental exercise, for your particular dog. While this is an issue all year round, it is more evident during the winter months, when there are days we can’t get out with our dogs. Not to worry, there are lots of indoor activities to keep them active.

There are lots of dog training schools that provide classes in dog sports, which are ideal to build the bond we have with our dogs. Dog sports, such as Agility, will provide great exercise for dogs…and their people. Consider enrolling in a dog sport this winter. Of course, there are situations that prohibit attendance at classes, so devising a plan to keep your dog working at home is essential.

Teaching and practicing a trick is one of the first activities that comes to mind. It is great fun and can have multiple benefits. It doesn’t matter the actual trick you teach. Try paw, wave, spin and take a bow. You can get more advanced by grouping a number of trick together and soon your dog will understand how to pick up the kids’ toys or laundry and place them in the proper receptacle.

If you think that tricks are not for you, then practice all of your obedience words around the house. You can put the leash on and go for a heeling lesson around the living room. Sound crazy? Not really. In fact, you will soon find out that having to maneuver around the coffee table will focus both you and your dog on the task at hand. How about some sit/stays while you are watching TV. This will give your dog something to think about, and at the same time, keep him out of mischief.

A fun activity to do with your dog is Hide and Seek. This is especially fun if you have children to share this game with. Hold your dog in one room and have your child hide in a designated hiding spot elsewhere in the house. Have the child call his dog and as you release him, tell him to “go and find Billy”. You can increase the fun by using different rooms. As your dog catches on to the game, have your child stop calling his name and just give the find command to your dog.

If you live by yourself, or as an alternative, you can teach your dog to “find it”. First, take a piece of cardboard and fold it in half, like a tent. Hold your dog’s collar while you place a tasty treat under the tent. Guide your dog a few feet away and encourage him to find the treat. This should only take a few seconds. Start to increase the distance and then start to hide the tent in different areas of the house. The tent will draw his attention to the area of the treat. Your dog will have tons of fun hunting for his biscuit and it will certainly help to tire him out.

Using his favorite toy rather than a treat under the cardboard tent is a modification of this game. Soon you could be asking Sparky to go and find his bone or his ball by name. By teaching him to think while he plays, you will be mentally challenging him at the same time as giving him some fun playtime. This is also a great excuse to get him some new toys and treats. As if we need one!

By keeping your dog active over these long months, you will decrease his stress and add to his mental well-being. The benefits of that are many, including living with a dog that is not out to chew your rug or continue to pester you for attention. The bonus might be that you would become interested in a new sport, or a new trick, which could open up a whole new world for both of you. Have a fun winter!