After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

I didn’t find this particularly difficult, even though I’m pretty inexperienced at this sort of work. I watched the video overview to get me going and then followed the steps in the guide. My tips would be to keep the screws and parts organised as you dismantle, and ensure you read all the reassembly tips as you go; it’s easy to skip over them. I also found using the Liberty Kit to replace the pentalobe screws was worthwhile.

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Those little screwdrivers are easy to mix up, for those of us without ultra-perfect vision! Once I used the correct screwdriver, and my 13yo son's little fingers and perfect eyes, it went smoothly! Also my son noticed that the rubber piece around the camera len was covering the camera; it likely slid out of place when sliding off the back cover. A little playing around (with plastic tools only!) and it looks perfect now!

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I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

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The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

Bottom screw was totally stuck, nothing could budge it. I removed top screw, heated up battery with hair dryer to release the glue, pulled it out using the spudger. Lifted up the metal plate thing (after taking out the ground piece and putting it aside). Cut off the flexible bit between the plate and the battery and twisted the plate around the screw as you did.

Well, the screw eventually came out—but only the top half! Yes, it split in two. Then the bottom half came out, still attached to the thing it was screwed in to (a sort of barrel).

I put the new battery in, put the bottom half (with the barrel) of lower screw back in its original position, replaced the ground piece and positioned the new plate over it, and screwed the top screw back in. Then put the top half of the lower screw in and tightened it.

Et voila!

Extra: It was helpful to discover that the 1.5 and 1.7 mm measurements refer to length of screw, not size of Phillips head.

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

The little contact thing that sits under top screw is always the biggest hassle to fit back into place (I do it after attaching the battery cable) with tweezers from ifixit.

My personal tips:

- plan that the incredibly tiny screws or the top-screw contact thing, might get away from you. so work in a space where you can find them easily. Not over carpet, etc.

- I use strips of tape on a piece of paper to secure the screws while they are out, and position them so I know which one goes on top of battery connector, and the one on bottom.

- If you have access to a spouse's/mate's iphone, in Accessibility settings there's a Magnifier option (triple-click home button) which does an amazing job at magnifying stuff at a circa 4-6" distance. Lacking any good magnifying glasses, this feature helped a lot. https://www.imore.com/how-use-magnifier-...

I wonder if the two screws shown on the picture are not inverted. It would seem logical to me that the longest (1.7mm) screw be placed on the upper hole, (where there is the yellow circle) ie on the hole where there is extra thickness (of the gold plated grounding contact sheet metal) in the sandwich. I have not checked, however, I just put the screws in the same location as found.

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No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

If you magnify picture 4 or picture 5 twice, you can view the ground clip under the blue tool. You need to reinstall the ground clip with the copper color prong facing "up." I believe the ground clip is what many are calling the "pressure contact point" because the copper prong of the ground clip does indeed have pressure asserted to it when it contacts the back cover of the iPhone 4s.

The hole in the pressure contact aligns with the top screw. The IFIXIT tool kit I bought contained a black sharp “thing” that I used to align the pressure contact with the top screw hole. I used this tool to align the bottom screw hole also. I put the bottom screw in first but did not tighten it all the way. A good magnifying glass with a light helped a lot. Tim

Aligning with the black pointy “thing” definitely helps. Also, the small copper end of the contact piece is supposed to stick up once attached, to make contact with the back plate of the phone after re-assembly. The piece slides under the silver metal plate, and the the pointer can be used to align the silver plate hole and the black/copper plate hole in place for the screw.

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

One thing I noted with the replacement battery - from AussieBattery here in Australia; not from iFixit - but the same problem might occur; is that the cable on the new battery had to be 'tamed' (bent here & there like on the old battery, before I could reseat the screws and even the battery itself. One again the black - pointy & flat ended - spudgers, that we use in desktop iMacs, were helpful in getting under that battery and releasing it from sticky-!&&*! I used a pair of '2.5' reading glasses for this job, but '3.0' might have been better, as those screws are INFINITESIMALLY small!!!!! :(

Thank you IFIXIT! The battery replacement went very well for me. I was exceedingly careful with the minuscule fasteners. Reading through the instructions, watching the video and reading these comments before jumping in helped. I found the parts and tools to be of good quality. I feel like I beat the system! I used a pair of diopter 3 reading glasses which was a real aid. I hope my comment encourages others...

My rare earth magnets came in handy when I managed to lose the little grounding connecter screws. Those little guys will go flying if, while trying to align them for reassembly, pressure gets applied in just the wrong way. I say one fly out and bounce off my shirt, then it was gone, on the floor I presume. I grabbed my stack of 8 little magnets, waved it around on the floor under where I was sitting and what do you know? A little screw was stuck to it! I never would've found it just by looking...

You really need to include information about the pressure sensor. It WILL inevitably pop out, leaving us wondering how and in what order it should be replaced. I had to look elsewhere for videos outside of iFixit to figure this out. Also, tell us which screwdriver to use using the label on the bit (PH000, P2, Y000, etc.). Providing only the sizes of the screws does nothing to help determine the appropriate bit to use when they aren’t labeled as such. Otherwise thank you!

I replaced the battery and the phone started right up. But I cannot get it to charge It was half charged when it went in new and I plugged it into a charger Checked it later - not charged. So tried another charger and the green charging light still will not come on . Any suggestions? Thanks Don

My iPhone 4s somehow has another connector on the battery. I cant connect the new battery to the phone. Its a complete different looking connector. And yes its never been replaced before or opened. The iPhone is one of the first versions for the german market after the fall of the simlock. Pls help

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

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My gold adhesive has torn, exposing a sliver of the flat wire beneath it. I have put a bit of insulation tape to prevent any contact between the wire and the top of the vibrator and metal piece on the logic board. I don't know if this is sensible or not. Depends whether the gold adhesive is intended to be an electrical contact with these bits, or an insulator from these bits! I will post to update once the phone is powered up / blown up!

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Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

While "This may require a significant amount of force." may vary by individual device, I found it to be true. I used a straightened paper clip held with a (really good) pair of needle nose pliers and pushed straight in until it fully popped out.

That may depend on the specific device; significant force *was* needed to eject it in the case of the phone I'm working on. Putting it back in, however, was very easy and didn't require any significant effort.

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

FWIW, I found it easier to replace during re-assembly by turning the phone front-side up, as on the Sprint-locked one I was working on, the SIM card faces that way. Otherwise, it tends to fall out (down) while trying to re-insert it if the phone is face down.

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There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

When reassembly - take care with flat cable, which might be pushing connector to side. If so - I found easy to put connector in place before tightening screws on step 23 and 22. Because then logic board can move a bit when repositioning connector and to slide right place before connecting it properly.

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

If your driver is just spinning in this step, you may be trying to turn the offset screw instead of the phillips screw beneath the tape. The tape is not obvious, and I found tweezers helpful when removing it.

The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

I wound up stripping one of the screws on this step. Was frustrating but I found if I too a sharp knife and gently went back n forth I was able to make a little notch to use a flat head and got it off. Other than that all went well.

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

- Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

- 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

Before logic board re assembly it is nice to use scotch tape ( temporarily) to bend all the connections above the battery compartment . Doing as such avoid to have the power button connection remaining below the logic board .

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Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

I did this repair several times. Never happend to me. Any idea if I can rescue the connector or should I buy a new FPC Connector, because I think the rest of the connector is still on the board? Anyone did a resolder with success?

I didn't take the board out, just the battery and metal shield and sticker over the wifi chip... also didnt replace the chip...

i finally upgraded my 4S to IOS 8.3, and after a few weeks the wifi dies...

So i pulled the back off, took out a few screws and a sticker off of the wifi chip to expose the metal top of the chip. heated it with a soldering iron (a few seconds) until it was very hot to the touch...

I followed your instruction but when I reached the wi-fi chip I could not pull out the top cover to heat the chip. My friend had a spare old chip with a cover and when heated the cover got burnt and after heating strongly the chip opened and we could see inside. I understand the cover is heat sink. How do I replace this when it gets burnt. Where can I get replacement?

Thanks. Ok I'm trying it right now. For security I put oven paper and on top of that aluminium paper over the areas which should not get to hot. I preflowed them to see if they stand the temperature. Seems to work. I report back

Hairdryer dont reach 300 C. So you dont damage other components. Try it and tell us if it work. Sometimes you can fix the problem simply putting the phone under a lamp for 20 minutes (also without take off the rear cover) so i think that you have a 60-70% success..good luck

None of my friends have the air reflow station. Could anyone please tell if I can use a soldering iron to heat the chip instead? Is it supposed to reflow correctly with a soldering iron attached to it for some time?

Well I didn't wait for a response and reflowed the chip with my 40 wt soldering iron and surprisingly it worked! I continuously moved soldering tip across the chip surface for about 5 minutes and then repeated after 2 min break. Now both wifi and bluetooth work perfect. Thanks for the guide!

Pb-free solders have typical melting temperature around 200-220 °C so 200 °C is never enough to properly REFLOW the chip - you basically just heat the thing up which probably causes some deformation and helps to make the contact between pins again.

As for real reflow, use 200 °C temp for first 90 sec (ideally you want to increase the chip temperature no faster than 3 °C/sec up to 200 °C), then ramp-up to 260 °C for 60 (max. 120) sec (this causes the real reflow), and then cool the thing down using 100 °C air for next 1-2 mins (or just leave it to cool down freely.

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I did it! Works perfectly. Thank you very much for this guide. A friend gave me his reflow station and I was a little bit anxious to destroy something because I never did reflowing before , but then I just tried it and it simply works.

Hi,try to reflow it again for 15 mins at 350c. If not works again, you have to buy a new wifi chip, re heat the old chip and pull out with tweezers. Apply a solder flux, Put the new chip, and solder it on the motherboard using the reflow method. 300-350c for 15mins, the n check if is solder good on the phone then turn it on.

Ok, worked! Great thanks! I first tried the usual stuff then I tried the hair dryer method which worked with another i4s, but not with this one.

I didn't have Kapton tape, so I used oven paper and aluminium paper on top of it to cover the mainboard around the chip. Also I didn't have a reflow station and used a hot air gun instead which has adjustable temperature control with display. I took the smallest cap which was a bit larger than the chip. Then reflowed it with the given timings and temperature reduction. Works and I hope for ever.

You can do this without any masking tape.. you can use a gair dryer, if you have a thermometer is better.. i have fixed 6-7 phone using this method. only one guy, every 3 months come for a new fix.. on that phone i can't do a permanent fix. this guy always go to ski, so the temperature broke the soldering and i have to reflow it sometimes.

che chip have many little pin on the bottom side, reflowing it, you have to desolder and resolder for make it work..maybe the chip is broked, so for fix it, you have to buy a new chip, heat the old chip, take it off, clean the surface, put the new chip and reflow it.. is more difficult..

you can do it for 30 minutes.. the chip will survive to the hot temperature.. i use 280-350°. the solder wire have the fusion at almost 300°C so you can do for 20-30 minutes.. i dont know if the hairdriver can reach that temperature..

My iPhone 4S wi-fi was not grayed out. It could be activated and scan for networks but no any network was found. This solution solved it out. I did Exactly as the guide. While welding keep the nozzle around 1cm form the Murtata chip and in the last minute at the lower temperature (250°) I moved a bit far to reduce any possible thermal shock. This is just a caution. 10 e lode!

I cut back quite a few of the steps and did it slightly differently though

I simply took the back plate off, moved the battery aside, took out maybe 5 of the screws near the top until I could pop off that plate that wraps around the top left. Once those were off the WiFi module was completely exposed. I took a razor blade and sliced the tape off the chip and took my soldering iron and ran it around in circles for about 5 minutes, VERY CAREFULLY I might add, since I never took the actual phone apart.

Once it cooled off, I reapplied the tape, used the semi-hot soldering iron to adhere the tape back on, then re attached the plate, screws and backplate, fired the phone up... Wifi works like a charm now.

Thank you! i'm happy to hear this. and i'm glad to know that my guide is useful. anyway i have done a "copy and paste" for the first 20 steps, so i dont care about if something is the guide is missing..i think that if someone wanna try this guide, he have to know a little how to disassemble his phone. :)

I'd say first try the fridge method and the network reset before decommissioning your iPhone's hardware. Here are a few other things you can do to try and solve the wifi issue: http://www.copytrans.net/blog/how-to-fix...

It amuses me to no end that putting my phone in the freezer solved my problem (going on two weeks now). Can you explain the technical reason for that? You mention above it's a temporary fix, perhaps it is but it's been a LONG temporary so far.

I didn't have the tools for doing the reflow so I ordered a new WiFi PC board ($25 versus about $90 for all the tools) - so if the time comes, I'll just swap it out.

i think that under the chip there are some small point that have to be solder on the motherboard.. with a reflow you make hot and the chip will solder to the motherboard.. but probably this is wrong, i dont know why the cold temperature fix the problem.. maybe the chip works in a range of temperature that you fix using hot or cold air.. i only know that a high thermal shock will make this chip KO.

have you bought a new murata chip for the wifi connection?? and how you think that you can solder on the motherboard without a air gun?

Really? Only use a pentalobe bit once other wise it strips? Maybe with iFixits cheap tools, but get yourself a nice Wiha set and you'll never have to worry about it. I am a cell technician and have been using Wiha tools for the last 8 years, THE SAME SET I STARTED WITH 8 YEARS AGO! I bought a iFixit set, and the PH000 stripped the first day I got it. So I can only imagine how crumby the iFixit pentalobe must be. But anyway, good article, good pictures. Some people are making it out to be harder than it is. Just take your time, make sure you put the screws in a place where they will not get lost and you will be fine.

Just wasted 3 hours with the DFU reset. Same problem persists. So frustrating. It seems like a hardware problem because I tried putting the phone in the freezer and the wireless worked for like 10 minutes. I'm confident this heat flowing would work, but it's a lot of work which tells me this is a hardware problem, but if that's true, then why did my wireless stop working immediately after installing iOS 7? That would suggest it's a software issue. What the !&&*?

Step by step was excellent, I did not have the the insulating tape or rework tool. Used electrical tape to cover all surrounding IC's kept the board suspended for good ventilation all around and used a blow-dryer oscillating as recommended.

Hi guy.I want to ask some quetions.my 4s also wifi greyed out and i'm so dissapointing about tht problem.some guys say it was about sw+hw problem.So,if i change the wifi chip following this method,wifi is working back agin in this bad ios(mind is 7.1).plz comment me.i need help:(

i want to ask some question.my 4s wifi also greyed out and i'm so dissapointing about that problem.few ppl said it was about hw+sw problem.so,if i change the wifi chip following that method,my wifi will be back agin in this bad ios(mind is 7.1).plz comment me guys.i need help:(

Hi. Try a reflow first. Change the chip is harder to do. Just heat it. If not work, you can try to buy a new one. This method is not 100% working, i have fixed something like 15-20 phones, 3-4 phones after 2-3 months need another reflow. And only 1 phone is unfixable

I have a question that Maybe some one has asked already, but I cannot see it: Can you do the reflow without removing the logic board and covering everything else with the tape to protect from the high temperature?

If you use a small tool, you can do without any tape. I have fixed one simply putting under a lamp (table lamp) without taking off the back cover..

If you will use max 300c you dont make any problem to the mainboard.

For desolder a connector/smd/chip, you need 350-400c.. if possible remove the shield that cover the LCD/touch/camera/power/volume connector, and then remove also the black tape that cover the Wi-Fi chip.. remember to turn off the phone and remove the battery

I had this problem for a couple of weeks and therefore ordered a new phone. When I removed the sim card (the phone was on and I was logged on to the sim card, i.e. could call etc) to put it into the new phone a noticed that the Wifi started yet again when the sim card had been removed. I do not know if this is only temporary or if the problem got fixed by removing the sim card when the phone was on but you could try at least.

hi, first try another sim, or try ytour sim on another phone, then check if the antenna cables are connetted on the motherboard, and remember that if you remove the battery, the date of the phone go to 1 jan 1970, and until you set che curent dat/hour, the phone dont recognize the sim card. try first to set the correct date/hour, then remove and insert the sim card. trust me, it will work

Did carefully all steps. Resoldering was made with a heat gun set on 250°C with an aluminum home-made nozzle.

Even all this, after it was mounted back, iPhone didn't start anymore. No image, no sound when plug. iTunes doesn't see it either and it doesn't appears in the USB tab in System Profiler. Tried to hard reset, but nothing. The only thing is the iPhone is getting hot.

A detail too: when I reassemble the iPhone, the antenna clips plug near the WiFi chips was unsolder - as for many user, I just put it back in place and it hold pressed by the little black metallic piece.

hi, i have already seen this problem. sometimes the reflow can break the wifi chip, the problem is that when you turn on the phone, that chip became very hot and the phone will turn off.. i solved removing that chip from the motherboard and throw it in the basket!

the price is very low, you can try to buy 2 or 3 chip, clean the motherboard using a solder iron and a solder flux and then clean with isopropyl alcool.

put again a solder flux on the motherboard, and with the solder iron (flatted) you can remake the solder points simpy passing the solder iron on the motherboard, then you appli again the solder flux, you put the new ic connector on the right place (i think is the most difficult part) and re-heat, maybe using 380-400°C for 3-4 minutes.. then you can check if the wifi chip is sticked good on the MB and try to turn on the phone..

P.S. check on the motherboard if you have all the solder points in good condition.. maybe when you took off the old chip you broked something or some "metal connector" between the chip and the motherboard

There is few steps missing actually.. But I did't wrote them down, sorry. Nevertheless, they are pretty common sense. ;)

ps. Actually this is second time I did that repair. Just after the first one, after a while wifi went down (bluetooth still were working). So I did those steps once again and wifi is up and running. Again.. :) Yiiiihaaaa!!! :)

ps1. my rework device Yihua 8786D when set on 300C by Thermo reader showed only 150 or so, but that reader also is Chinese crap so I don't give a dime that it's wrong. Anyone tried measure that? Should it really blow set temp?

Hi, I managed to fix the Wifi problem reflowing the Murata SS1830010 chip. After that I have an other issue... My iphone does not find my provider (is always searching)... and yes, sim card is properly installed and antenna is in place. Any suggestions?

Tried to cool and then Freeze it but no the easy way never works. popped the back off and just took a heat gun, a bit at a time, to the Murata SS1830010 chip in mention, but just enough so my finger would get burned when touching it, let it cool a bit turned on the phone and Whaalah it worked. Amazing thing this is almost like cold solder not sticking component's and having to be reworked. My hats off to you!!!!!!!!! ***** ;-)

Who ever found this, did an excellent job and is a genius. Thanks for sharing/finding this out bro...the iphone 4s wifi works like a charm...thanks a million...few easy steps like dismounting camera and removing the metal plate securing the cable connectors by unscrewing 4 screws is missing but other than that all the screenshots and instructions are precisely defined!

Forgot to mention...i did it with a blow dryer n electrical tape but wrapped the whole board except the chip under atleast 2 loose layers of tape so if the top melts the 2nd will protect but none melted and did it for 5 mins on high setting

hi, i think that on 500k users that have used my guide, maybe 2 or 3 have no fixed the problem. anyway this guide is made by me, a professional fixer that have 2 shops where me, and my team, fix about 30-50 phones per day..

we have all schematicts, and all solutions for fix any kind of problem, and i decides to share our "secrets".

this guide is the easy way to fix this problem at home, is not workin 100% but the method is correct..

if you read all the guide you can discover that this is a semi permanent fix, the right way is to replace the chip, but without a professional machines is impossible to so, and is very hard..

Great Guide! It works! This is the FIRST time I dissembled an Iphone ever and it surprised me, that it worked for me right away. Spending 3 hours to repair my Iphone 4s is absolutely worth it. During repairing there were some difficulties but finally my WIFI works again. It was great fun to do it! Thanks a lot!

WORKED JUST FINE for me. I used a general-purpose heating gun (NOT a hairdryer). The parts of the logic board not interested in the reflowing were protected with Kapton tape and sheets of glass-fiber material. Temperature was set at 185 C for 5 min and checked with a thermometer close to the chip to ensure no over-heating was occurring.

I heated top of my iphone 4(where is speaker gap) with a heat gun. Be careful not to overheat display! Once phone warned me that phone is overheated I turned off phone and put it in my fridge. Then turned on and setup wi-fi. woala it's works!

I have been repairing several phones and this is one of the most craziest fix to try (I thought). I already tried all resets and bla bla bla. Wi-Fi stayed grayed out and BT was not working.

I did take the motherboard out but didn't secure or cover it with any tape. Tried above method using hot air blower in some random temperature (I guess it was about 150-300'c), for ~3 minutes...and it worked! Wi-Fi and BT are back in business. Amazing :)

I am convinced from all that I've read from various sources that this is an Apple engineering problem. It apparently is caused by some kind of temperature sensor in the iPhone triggered by an iPhone iOS update. Unfortunately this has never been resolved by subsequent iOS updates. I'm up to version 9.3.2 and Apple still has not addressed the problem with an update to iOS.

The best permanent solution I've heard of is to replace the WiFI antenna component BUT this is too much work.

Instead I chose a simpler (possibly less temporary) solution to just cool down my iPhone to trigger the temperature sensor logic in the iPhone.

Do not heat up your phone as some people have suggested. "Thermal Cycling" is bad for your phone. I've been able to reset the temperature sensor in my iPhone 4S by putting it in the freezer (in a zip lock bag) for about 15 minutes. It may not be a permanent solution but will re-enable the WiFI until the temperature sensor triggers the WiFi to shutdown again.

are u kidding me in this .. i mean how can anyone do this coz we r not experts ok and we dont have the right tools... this demonstration is nothing bt a headache... ur only gonna damage ur phone in the end.....

The root of the problem being solved is that the WiFi/Bluetooth chip is becoming dislodged, as can happen when a phone is dropped. Forces on the chip during a collision pull the chip away from the board, creating micro-fractures in the solder connections. This can cause the WiFi (and Bluetooth) to work intermittently. To be clear, there are other reasons that your WiFi might stop working, and you should try to Reset Network Settings before attempting this kind of expert repair.

Why would temperature cycling help? Any time you heat or cool something it will expand or contract. This will cause the metal connections to move - the amount of movement may not be enough to be visible to the human eye, but enough to close the gap from a micro-fracture. This is a temporary fix because it has not fixed the fracture. The gap can open up when the phone gets hot again, or if you drop it again. Reflowing the solder connections can fix the root problem, closing up the micro-fractures permanently if done right.

After 6 weeks it stopped working again, even though I followed all the steps. The fridge method always worked maximum a few days so it is better then that.

I start to believe this is just another temporary heat gun solution, it is not actually re-balling or reflowing anything, it is just temporarily reactivating the messed up chip by heating its internals. Other reactions confirm that. I sincerely hope nobody is using this method to quote 'professionally repair' with 1 month warranty and charge for it, that would be a ripoff.

WI-Fi problem is a HARDWARE ERROR. You cannot do anything on it. Upgrading makes more worse.

It begins when your phone gets heated. If you blow hot air on your iphone rear side just below the camera, it will reconnect the wire/register in wi-fi chip and your wi-fi issue will be rectified temporarily.

!&&* yeh! This procedure worked for my iphone 4s. The wifi setting has been greyed out since i accidently sat a bag of frozen peas on it for an hour. I heated the wifi chip with an ozito heat gun, with a small stainless cone on the front that i made to direct the hot air out of a hole about the size of the chip. Used a digital kitchen thermometer to monitor the temp at the chip was held around 200 deg C for about 5 min. Covered the rest of the board with baking paper layered under aluminium foil as someone else mentioned. Thanks heaps, procedure needs to be done very carefully but DEFINATELY worth a shot.

I was not convinced that this would work, but snce there is nothing to loose, i went ahead and heated up the chp at 190*celcius for 10 minutes, working in circles, diagonals, horisontal and vertical lines never stopping at 1 point.

let the mobo cool for half an hour and reassembled and powered on… instant happiness :)

Btw I hadn’t a hot air rework soldering station so I used my soldering station instead. I placed a metal piece on top of the chip with the tip of the iron on it to help diffusing the heat to the entire chip and it mades the trick. A bit messy though but when you have no choice… :)

Hi andrea, i don't know how to contact you so ill just leave comment here, i have done this on mulitple iphone 4s and its working great. But I wanted to know if there is a way to fix wifi problem on iphone 5s, with rework station?

worked great in a bout 10 mins took the back off and some of the close proximity ribbon cables and just held my soldering iron on the chip for about 1 minute and plugged it back it and all working, great trouble shooting thanks

I’ve tried to drain my battery before doing these steps. My phone won’t turn on. I’ll try to charge it for 30 minutes. And do a reset and see how it goes. Hopefully it would come back to life. Else it might be gone. :(