The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2015

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24 / the tasting panel / june 2015
SCOTCH REPORT
I
s the whisky industry innovative enough?
I was asked to speak recently on that very
topic at a debate in London organized by
the Worshipful Company of Distillers.
There was much talk of today's incredible
range of vodka flavors and varieties and
the explosion of craft gins, but I was able
to use my speech to remind delegates that
the great whisky brands have been around
since "brands" first appeared, and show
little sign of fading away. In a category that
rotates inventory five times a century or less
(for a 20-year-old whisky—just think about
those 50-year-olds!) it makes little
sense to chase every passing
trend, even if that were possible.
In the end, delegates were won
over and agreed that whisk(e)y
was a surprisingly enterpris-
ing and innovative category,
but to understand it, a
long-term view was needed.
Not easy in a world driven by
140 characters!
Two great examples spring
to mind from two of my
favorite whiskies.
First up, Dewar's White
Label. It's a long-time best-
seller in the U.S., but not
necessarily where you would
first go to look for fresh
thinking. So their
Dewar's
Scratched Cask ($25.99)—a limited release
of a special blend that, in their words,
allows consumers "to enjoy the prestige and
tradition of Scotch with the accessibility of
bourbon"—is a pleasant surprise. The secret
lies in an unorthodox (for Scotch) treatment
of the barrels used for aging and marrying
the blend. In a technique borrowed from
bourbon, the interior of the casks are heav-
ily charred and then lightly scratched at the
char layer to alter the flavor of the whisky.
The liquid is then left to blend and breathe
for an additional period.
According to Dewar's Master Blender
Stephanie Macleod, "This is a Scotch
produced in a bourbon style. We always age
our whisky, but in this case, the process of
scratching the barrels creates a truly excep-
tional Scotch whisky with distinctive and
accessible notes of sweet vanilla, toasted
oak and a hint of spice with a smooth,
satisfying finish."
My next exhibit is a robust, cask-strength
single malt from Tamdhu, a lesser-known
Speyside distillery recently re-opened by
Ian MacLeod Distillers. Available from
Impex Beverages,
Tamdhu Batch Strength
($95) arrives with a
great award on its shoul-
ders: The San Francisco
Worlds Spirits Competition
crowned it with their Gold
Medal.
Today, Tamdhu is matured
exclusively in former Sherry
casks, accounting for the
deep color and rich flavors.
The 58% ABV strength
means this is a dram that
keeps on giving; though it's
another non-aged release, I
expect it to find favor with
connoisseurs.
In other good news and
also on Speyside, Chivas
Brothers will open their new Dalmunach
Distillery later this month on the site of the
former Imperial distillery. It will be produc-
ing at first to support the Chivas blends, but
expect a single malt release in a few years.
It's a further sign of the long-term confi-
dence that still pervades the whisky industry
,despite some recent economic storms.
Finally, a little bird brings me news of a
new
Green Spot pot still expression from
across the Irish Sea, with links to a very
special French winery. I'm tasting it soon,
and will report next time.
Now Trending . . .
FOR SCOTCH WHISKY, INNOVATION MEANS
SOMETHING DIFFERENT INDEED
by Ian Buxton