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Everything posted by Summershandy

I brought my spindle, new kingpins and bushings to the machine shop to have them pressed and reamed. They just called me and said the bushings fell right in. I dropped by and sure enough, they slide in and spin. Could I have the wrong repair kit or could the spindle knuckle be worn? The shop said they might be able to make new bushings. I'm not sure if I should start looking for replacement spindle arms. Looks like around $500 Canadian if I find them.

I HAVE ONE BUT APPARENTLY I CAN'T READ! lol
Dave39MD: Thanks brother for opening my eyes! That section looks a lot like my 1949-1954 shop manual.....and it is. I didn't pick up on
"6. LIft floating bushings from steering knuckle." I feel like and idiot and apologize if I inconvenienced any other members. Remember that old saying? If in doubt, read the manual. THOROUGHLY!
Going down to the machine shop tomorrow and pick up my spindle & pins. Also, thanks for saving me some $$$!

Found this quote regarding floating type bushings and kind of makes sense to me:
The grease hole in the bushing should be OPPOSITE the hole for the grease fitting, NOT lined up with the hold for the grease fitting!Also, the bushing SHOULD have a groove all the way around the outside of the bushing and in line with the hole. When grease goes into the grease fitting, it is SUPPOSED to go AROUND the groove in the bushing, then through the hole in the bushing and then squeeze in between the inside of the bushing and the king pin. As a result of this method of greasing the kingpins/bushings, greased SHOULD be evenly distributed all the way around the bushing on the outside of the bushing and all the way around the inside of the bushing. Grease coming UP from the lower bushing SHOULD squeeze into the thrust bearing. That is how it is all SUPPOSED to work.
I've also read some people locktite their bushings in place......

From inside the dust cap of a '54 Star Chief. I can't find any info on it and don't really know the purpose of it. It was kinda mangled so I straightened it out. Not sure if it's supposed to be flat or stick out some. Never seen one before. Thanks!

Kingpins and bushings are for a 1954 Pontiac StarChief...and now you got me thinking. I called the supplier CPR and they can't confirm if they are floating or pressed in. I thought the hole had to line up with the zerk but maybe the groove around the outside fills up then goes through the hole to hit the inside? They also think the bushing can fall down through the knuckle but it can't. I tried. Man, I could really use some help from somebody that knows without doubt!

Just sharing some info for our fellow Canadians regarding Indian Head. I just got my bottle today. I checked with auto parts stores and industrial suppliers and no where could I find it locally. My auto parts store found it in their catalogue but it showed it discontinued. I got it off Amazon.ca. So much for shopping local.

Ugh I hear ya! I'm using it for my crank seal made of cork. It spins against the timing chain cover and I need reassurance it won't come loose. I had the joy of removing the old seal and could tell it was like Indian Head. I have no plans to ever change it out again. Good story, good advice!

So I thought I'd start to tackle my '54 kingpin replacement and I can't even get past the retainer pin removal. First I think I flattened the pin making it a mushroom so I ground it down flush. I've been banging on it non stop. I'm sure I'm hitting the right end, from the front to the back. Any backyard tips or should I just continue killing it with a mallet and drift pin? Thanks.

I don't think mine was getting good grease either. The bushing was turning independent along with the kingpin so it didn't line up either for a good greasing. My other retainer pin came out with 2 blows of the mallet. Went in hard and fast. The kingpin also slid right out. Looks like my first kingpin removal I have been blessed. I've heard so many horror stories. Dang I had to bitch the first pin. Would have been a perfect job. Perfectionism...a curse I must live with!
Thanks for the word of the day. Never heard it called that.

Thanks Todd. I still should have been more careful. My mistake so my fix. One of the things that get me through times like this, are the other wrenchers that say they've made their share of mistakes, learn by them, 4 steps forward and 2 steps back and been there done that. What confused me a little was I read on Buicks the pins were opposite. But I suppose they could go in any direction and if one of the PO's had change out the kingpins they could have replaced them incorrectly. Live and learn I guess!

I just recieved my quart of Bill Hirsch engine enamel today. The recommend using primer for any steel surfaces other than cast or aluminum. I was going to prime the valve covers, timing chain cover and oil pan. It never occurred to me if I need to use a high heat primer or just the regular stuff. I actually had never heard of the high heat until I read the back of the paint can. I could always contact my auto supply shop and see if they sell it. I don't need any of the paint bubbling off after my hard work. Overkill or necessity?

Mr "I can't wait" here....I broke down and drilled. I was surprised how soft the pin was. It was actually no problem drilling. Got pretty close to center but missed a bit. Popped right out after that because I had drilled so close to one side it was almost gone. Didn't mess up the hole too bad. I'll just use some locktite and use a sealant on the outside to keep out any moisture. My bonehead mistake....I must have hammered it tighter doing it in the wrong direction. The kingpin tapped right out along with the bushings. Noted the hole in the bushing did not line up with the grease fitting. I think I remember seeing the top bushing moving around with the spindle and they weren't really pressed in. One down, one to go!

Well, I've just spend an hour flattening out the other side. Ground the mushroom head off it and now both sides look the same. Pounded for a while with the drift pin and no go. I've removed some hard things in my day but a pin? What am I looking at now, drilling out a 1/4" pin?

Now that I've taken a closer look at a pin, I'm thinking I'm hitting the wrong end! The side I was hitting looked a little more round in diameter and didn't have a flat side to it. Wish the manual would be more specific than "remove retainer pin".

Well, last night the line off the exhaust manifold finally fell off. Guess it got bent one too many times. I'm blaming the machine shop haha. Here's an old picture of what I'm talking about. I drilled out the broken part fitted in the manifold and rebent the line to reach the choke spring again. My question, what would hold or seal it back in the manifold. I'm not sure the temps there and reading on JB weld and Permatex Copper sealant they seem to be rated around 500 - 700 fahrenheit. The tubing is a pretty snug fit and sits in about a 1/4" which is about the thickness of the manifold, so there's some meat there.

Well I'll be darned guys. I had thought this was drawing exhaust not just hot air! That's why I was concerned about an exhaust leak. I think my set up is like Bloo's. Looking down the hole it seems to have a cast looking floor about an inch down. I sketched what I feel with my finger inside the port. Without breaking off the bolts to get the cover off, I think I have an air cavity. You'd think when I drilled I would have felt an air tube. I always drill by feel. You guys agree?

My heart sank today. While trying to remove the broken flange bolts the actual flange broke. I tried every trick in the book. Heat, easy out (which did it), candle wax and tapping with 50/50 acetone and ATF. What a bunch of bull***. I work gingerly but never thought in a million years this would have happened. It's too late now but I should have gone with my gut and just drilled out the threads and use a nut and bolt. I will NEVER try unseizing frozen bolts again! Any suggestions what route I could go? Maybe there's a creative machinist or engineer out there.

My manifold is back from the shop. They thought old cast was the easiest to weld but when they filled it, drilled it and tapped it snapped again. So this was plan B. Lesson learned...when you snap a 63 year old exhaust bolt, instead of trying to ez it out and possibly breaking the flange, just drill it out and either re-tap or just use bolts. A very expensive lesson!

I curious on what colour decal originally came on the '54 straight 8 air cleaner. CPR lists a black/white one and orange one for same year. Trying to keep original. The current cleaner had been painted and didn't have one.