Dominica travel guide

The indigenous name for Dominica is ‘Waitukubuli’ which means ‘tall is her body’ and indeed, Dominica is one long, exquisite creation. This Dominica travel guide aims to show you all its curves and coves, its key arteries and of course, its respiratory system – the rainforest. We also aim to show you the great minds behind responsible tourism in Dominica, keeping this stunning island eco, ethical and exceptional all at the same time.

Hurricane Maria

Hurricane Maria hit the Caribbean island of Dominica 18 September 2017. It is thought to have been one of the most devastating storms of recent times. Dominican resilience following Tropical Storm Erika in 2015 was second to none, and many of our vacation makers have enjoyed trips of a lifetime there following that time. And indeed, this time round Dominica has proven to be dramatic in its ability to turn things around. Businesses are re-opening and others are welcoming volunteers to help rebuild. Read more details on how to donate to the , as well as comments and updates from our friends on the ground: Hurricane Maria's impact on Dominica. The most important thing is to start getting back out there and support tourism in this fine country once more.

Dominica travel guide

2 minute summary

Dominica is quiet about its glories. In fact, this small island has a calm and quiet soul. Even though it boasts nine volcanoes, three national parks, three geothermally gorgeous marine reserves and 365 rivers. A blessing rather than a curse, there are no direct international flights, so the majority of big birds you see in the sky are natural ones, with over 180 species from pelicans to parrots. So, Dominica is quiet, yes; but sleepy, no. Because the best way to explore the rain and cloud forests, volcanic craters and steamy slopes is by hiking. Which is why the Waitukubuli National Trail, the only long-distance walking trail in the Caribbean, is so highly rated by international trekkers. Spanning 185kms from north to south, it was designed by the local community to link up remote villages. By foot. Because when you do Dominica slowly and quietly, just as Dominicans do, you allow the sights and sounds to simply speak for themselves. And they speak volumes.

Crab backs, crab shells stuffed with shredded crab meat, are a seasonal Creole tradition. The hunting season is October 1 to December 3, and this is the only time they are allowed.

Dominica’s new national dish is callaloo soup, a green leafy soup often served with crab. It replaced the Crapaud ‘mountain chicken’ (a local frog), now an endangered species.

People & language

Dominicans are delightful people. They delight in hosting guests, delight in their food and drink, delight in their rural heritage and delight in their magical mix of African, European, Creole and indigenous Kalinago cultures. English is the official language, but their local Kwéyòl is cooler – influenced by French, Kalinago and West African indigenous language. Such as:

“Bon jou” – good morning/day.

“Mes” – Thank you

“Ovwa” – Good bye (think of the French and you’ve got it!)

Kokoy is a local patois, used in a few villages in the north, influenced by English rather than French.

Gifts & shopping

The indigenous Kalinago (Carib) people create stunning basketwork and woven crafts, using the local larouma plant.

Artisans create jewellery made from resources ranging from cow horn, coconut to calabash.

The spas around Wotten Waven often sell soaps and other products made from sulphur and other local resources such as cocoa.

Check out the , with a directory of local artisans.

Fast facts

Jing Ping is Dominica’s traditional music – a band that features the bamboo flute, boom boom bamboo wind instrument, gwaj idiophone and of course the accordion.

How much does it cost?

Baguette style bread: 25p to 50p

Local sweet fruit wine: £4 - £5.

Pilau lunch of chicken and lentils: £2.50 - £5

Scooter/jeep hire: £17/22 day

Any village to Roseau by local bus: £2.50 for one hour ride

A brief history of Dominica

Like all history, it depends whose version you read, and there are many stories to be told. A good place to start is on the north east coast of Dominica where the Kalinago indigenous people have their own territory, the last chief having been elected in 2014, namely Charles Williams. Indeed, the original Kalinago name of the island was Waitukubuli, meaning ‘Tall is her body’.Read more ▼

It is in honour of the Kalinago people that the island’s long distance walking trail, which covers the length of this beautiful tall body, is called the , and it passes through the indigenous territory on the east coast. You can visit their cultural center, the , for fascinating tours, tours and cultural experiences, but remember that this is not just for tourists. It is a homeland to 3,400 people, now living in eight coastal villages over an area of 15km² , but who have lived all over the island for thousands of years. The population here is still thriving, thanks to the fact that the Kalinago succeeded in resisting colonial presence over the centuries. It was colonists who re-named the Kalinago people as Caribs, a term that is still used today, and on maps you will see their homelands called the Carib Territory.

First to deal with were the Spanish, post Columbus’ voyage of discovery in 1493 – who was also responsible for re-naming the island Dominica, meaning Sunday Island – because he passed the island on a Sunday. Not quite as creative as the Kalinago interpretation, it has to be said. He never actually landed, however, and the Spanish didn’t make it much further either, put off by the difficult mountainous terrain and excellent topographical and survival knowledge of the Kalinago.

Next in were the British and the French, the former attempting to colonise in 1627 under the reign of Charles I, although again they didn’t get too far, with local resistance remaining strong. The French then tried their hand, bringing Catholic missionaries with them in 1635, but mostly in vain, with both abandoning the island in 1660. The big colonial blow was struck in 1763, however, when Britain was ‘given’ Dominica as part of the Treaty of Paris, the outcome of the Seven Years’ War. In recognition of indigenous rights, the Kalinago people were given access to their own 232 acres of mountainous and rocky shoreline in the north east– about 1km² . It wasn’t until 1903 that this was increased to 15km², which it remains today.

This period also brought the painful and shameful introduction of slavery to this idyllic landscape, with over 40,000 people brought in from various African countries, such as Nigeria and Cameroon, to work as slaves on plantations between 1763 and 1778. During this year the French re-invaded, while the Brits were busy doing their bit in the American War of Independence. The battle scars from these years of battling between the British and the French can be seen at various forts around the island, including Fort Shirley, Scotts Head and Fort Young (now the location of one of the island’s most prestigious hotels). The British took back the island in 1783 and with this continued the importation of slave workers, with total numbers rising to over 100,000. Slavery wasn’t finally abolished here until 1834.

Dominica’s independent and strong streak is reflected in the fact that it also became home to Maroons, a term given to escaped slaves, from Dominica and other islands, who took to the easy-to- hide-in hills and created safe houses for each other. They fought against the British in battles known as the Maroon Wars, and held their own on some occasions, but suffered major losses as well, until as late as 1815. Indeed, Emancipation Day is a big celebration every year in Dominica, with a festival running for a couple of weeks at the end of July/beginning of August, acting as a firm reminder of the country’s history. A country where the Afro-Dominicans still make up 95 percent of the population. You will hear the name ‘Jacko’ come up in Dominica quite a lot – the Maroon Chief who died in battle in 1814. He is remembered in places such as the Jacko Steps, which were carved into the mountainous slopes of the Layou Valley to give Maroons access in and out of their hiding places. Thankfully it is hikers who hug these hills today.

Dominica gained full independence from the British in 1978, and suffered both political and natural instability over the next 30 years with hurricanes hitting hard on several occasions, and political instability hitting hard too. One of the most severe hurricanes was Dean, in 2007, which totally wiped out the banana industry. The main industry now is tourism, with their history of sustenance and resource rich agriculture being neglected by many of the younger generation. Luckily, the Dominican government and tourism players have maintained their sense of independence and cultural identity in a world where tourism is in danger of becoming globalized and generic. Maybe it’s still the tough volcanic terrain and unpredictable mountainous magnificence that keeps invasions of mass tourism at bay still today. Or maybe it’s the people who know that what makes Dominica special, is that it has remained so culturally and naturally pure for generations.

Uneasy no settle would like to thank the Dominica tourist board for their sponsorship of this guide