Wareham's your oyster: Festival week features lectures, dinners, a road race and more

Wednesday

Apr 23, 2014 at 12:01 AM

After a long, hard winter, Wareham has come out of its shell with a week of oyster-themed events leading up to the inaugural Wareham Oyster Festival.

Joanna McQuillan Weeks

After a long, hard winter, Wareham has come out of its shell with a week of oyster-themed events leading up to the inaugural Wareham Oyster Festival.

The Wareham Village Association is presenting the multifaceted celebration. A speakers series, an event for youngsters, a roadrace, oyster specials in town restaurants and a gala fundraiser all are part of the week that began Monday.

It culminates in the rain-or-shine festival designed to draw fans of oysters and folks looking for family friendly fun to the renovated downtown streetscape Sunday. Festivalgoers will be able to slurp oysters from throughout the region, listen to live music, browse the wares of artisans and crafters, rent paddleboats and kayaks on the Wareham River and more.

Mike Besse, co-owner of Indian Cove Aquaculture in Wareham, is donating oysters for festival week. Besse explained Thursday that oyster farming in Wareham goes back to the 1800s, and the town is noted for its shellfish. He said he believes that the good flow and salinity of water from Buzzards Bay, combined with natural spring water streaming into Indian Cove, makes his oysters special.

"I believe that is where we get the flavor that our customers like so much," which he described as a briny but sweet taste.

During the cooler weather (months with an "R"), "they tender to be fatter, have better flavor. They're less stressed," Besse said.

The shellfish farmer said he favors frying oysters after coating them in flour, batter and cracker meal, but also likes them grilled and topped with a little sour cream and salsa.

"The old timers will tell you the only way to eat them is straight off the shell with nothing on them," Besse said.

That's how Aaron Brochu of Big Rock Oyster Company in Dennis likes to eat them. "I never cook them. I eat them totally plain. I don't think they need anything on them," he said. Festivalgoers definitely will be able to get their fill of the succulent shellfish at the Big Rock raw bar and others set up on Main Street.

"We're very excited to be part of the festival," said Brochu. "They've really put a lot of work into it."

Big Rock Oyster Company raises its shellfish on a grant off Crowe's Pasture Conservation Area, where there is an 8 to 10 foot tide drop. "Our oysters taste crisp and clean," he said. While almost all oyster farmers raise the same variety, he explained that the flavor varies depending on the salinity of the water, whether there is any fresh water blending in, and the composition of the bottom.

Brochu, who 20 years ago worked at Cronin's Restaurant in New Bedford while living aboard a fishing boat and scupping, said he enjoys participating in events such as the Bourne Scallop Festival and the Boston Local Food Festival. "All the people that come to the raw bars really like to talk about them, and how we grow them."

Bob Brady, president of the village association, said enthusiasm and support for the first-time event has been tremendous throughout town. "This will help to get a jump-start on the season for businesses," he said. "It's really quite an accomplishment" for the 14-member board to pull off planning the whole festival week.

While the Swan Festival has been a major summer attraction in the past, it was decided to schedule a new, earlier event so as not to compete with summer events marking the 200th anniversary in June of the attack on Wareham by HMS Nimrod and the July celebration of the 275th anniversary of the town's incorporation.

Participation in the week of oyster events has extended far beyond downtown. Among the restaurants participating by serving oyster specials is Ella's Wood Burning Oven Restaurant on Cranberry Highway, where Chef Marc Swierkowski is also serving an oyster-themed dinner tonight.

As of Thursday, about half of the tickets ($49) had been sold, so you may still be lucky enough to secure one by calling (508) 759-3600.

The special menu features cocktails and oysters on the half-shell at 6 p.m., followed by baked oysters with pancetta, kale and parmesan (the chef's twist on oysters Rockefeller), pan-roasted codfish and oyster stew with new potatoes, leeks and Pernod, and hearty greens with fried oysters, crispy pork belly and poached egg ("kind of a fun contrast of textures"). The courses will be paired with wines from M.S. Walker.

What, no oyster ice cream? "After that, we should be all set with a little cup of tea or coffee," Chef Swierkowski said with good humor.

Another decadent special the creative chef plans to offer during the week is an oyster pizza with spinach, Brie and bacon.

Commenting on the festival, the chef said, "I think it's something good for the town, to show where we are, what we are, and what we can do."

Karen J. Covey of Mattapoisett gave a talk about her cookbook, "The Coastal Table," on Tuesday as part of the festival speakers series. The following recipe, a classic for topping oysters on the half shell, is from the book. "There are a few variations on how to make a mignonette sauce, but this is my preference. It's really simple and adds a nice bite when served over really fresh oysters," she says on her blog, gourmetrecipesforone.com

Place shallots, vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook uncovered for about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Add pepper and parsley, spoon a small drizzle of mignonette sauce over fresh-shucked or grilled oysters, and serve.

Here's another simple classic from "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook."

"For a pleasantly subtle flavor," the book advises, "sprinkle each layer with a few gratings of nutmeg."