August 18, 2016

Inside & Out: 1820s-for-20-Years Project

Right around this time last month, I put the finishing touches on my 1820s-for-20 years project. It was meant to be completed by my birthday, which we celebrate on the 4th or 5th, however, fit issues with the bodice held me up. Ignoring the perfectionist within, I finally added a panel to the back and called it finished! So, tonight's post, as promised earlier, will detail constructing the project, inside and out. (You can view the completed photo shoot here: The Flower - 1820s Photo Shoot.)

Starting with the inside...After researching (extant garments, historical sources, Pinterest for lots of pretty pictures), my first step for any new project is to look at the foundational garments. Just as a building cannot stand without the proper, carefully measured and cut under-structure, no historical recreation would be complete without its undergarments. For this late-1820s project, the first layer was a new shift using Sense & Sensibility's Regency Underthings Pattern: Made from 100% cotton muslin.

What made the pattern so useful was its directions on underarm gussets, specifically the order in which to flat fell the seams. The underarm gussets really make a difference, allowing for a greater range of movement (compared to my mid-century yoked chemises). I think I need to make several more of these now!

Sleeve and underarm gusset from the outside.

Flat felled gusset from the inside.

Flat felled gusset and sleeve from the inside.
Success to me is when the inside looks as nice as the outside!

The rest of my undergarments - corset, two tucked petticoats and a corded petticoat - were borrowed from my mid-century wardrobe. However, unique to the late-20s and early-30s are the sleeve plumpers! No day dress would be complete without the quirky fashion, sleeve puffs for the win!

They each feature a flat felled arm seam and three twill tape ties (stitched inside) that attach at the dress' sleeve seam:

A puff right side up...

...And a puff upside down!

Then, onto the dress: Made from a lightweight polka-dotted cotton (based on wear I'm wondering if there is some poly in it...sad face), lined in 100% cotton muslin and hem faced with left over tan cotton. Combination of hand and machine stitched - machined interior bodice and long skirt seams.

So, I drafted the pattern for the dress myself, and some of it turned okay, and other parts not so much...feeling ambitious, I wanted a smoothly fitting, darted lining with a gathered front. Sounds simple enough, right? Well, not so much...

The lining went together well. I was so proud of those darts! But then I realized that the bodice was much to long, especially with a wide waistband...so I chopped off two inches all the way around:

The results after draping the darts on myself.

But, somehow between the mock up and the fashion fabric, something went awry! The fashion front didn't want to gather the way I had hoped, and may have been too long for the lining because it pigeons out oddly. Fail.

Dress front: The bodice is gathered at the waist and at the neckline,
which features a piped facing to bind the edge.

Dress front lining. But hey, those darts look nice!

And, worst of all, the bodice somehow shrunk! It ended up being too small, grrr, so I added a small flap to extend the back. Fail.

Dress back: note also that the shoulder seams are piped.

The back closes with seven metal hooks and thread eyes.

The skirt (about 130" around) is gauged and whipped onto the waistband.

Moving onto the sleeves, they ended up a bit snug, but do the job!

Sleeve: armseye and long sleeve seam are piped.
The wrist opening is split and finished with a piped facing.

Inside: Tapes are added at the armseyes to tie the sleeve plumpers in place.
Also provides a good look at the back extension piece.

And finally, the hem facing! I like adding deep hem facings, they're easy, relaxing, and never fail you:

Ending with accessories: Often overlooked, accessories can make or break an outfit! Or in this case, hide the panel extension in the back...For this project, I ended up making a pelerine, wide silk belt, and beribboned cap (featured in a post to come).

The pelerine was simple: Flat lined in tan cotton, bound with bias from the fashion fabric. The neckline is bound with a rectangle ripped on the grain and closed with a hook and thread eye. Entirely hand stitched.

Pelerine front: note that the top had to be pieced.

Pelerine back.

The belt was also a satisfying project: Made from striped silk taffeta, flat lined with bleached cotton muslin, and interlined with cotton drill. Closes with two metal hooks and thread eyes, entirely hand stitched.

And, just for fun, I noticed for the first time when I wore the dress in the Foster-Tufts House that this lady wore a belt much like mine!

Portrait in the Foster-Tufts House parlor.

And, that should do it for tonight's post and look inside and out at the construction of the 1820s-for-20-years project! Now, onto the next dress...

Thank you so much, Ateliernostalgia! The late-1820s through early-30s are such a fun style to wear. Sleeve puffs for the win! I hope to see more costumers (like you!) tackle the gigot fashion in the future!

Thank you, Deanna! Some very wise words! Through writing about my costuming fails, I hope that it saves others from making the same mistakes; and, I know exactly what I want to change in my pattern for late-1820s-dress-take-two! Thankfully, fabric is a very forgiving medium.

About the Sewphisticate

Needle and thread never far from hand, Anneliese is a seamstress, blogger and 19th-century living history interpreter at the Genesee Country Village & Museum. She pursues her passions for history and its clothing through costume construction and documents this journey, here, at the Young Sewphisticate.

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Why Sew by Hand?

Mission Statement

Perhaps it was the lavish gowns of period dramas, or the treasure trove of costumes at my local community theaters, or even the well-used dress up box of Grandma’s vintage, 1960s housedresses that inspired my love for historical costumes. Whatever the source, I have been captivated ever since by history and its clothing. I only hope that by sharing my passions, I will inspire others to the same appreciation for and interest in exploring clothing as a way of self-expression, social communication and a bridge to interactions of the past.

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"Anneliese sews beautiful costumes, and often blogs the whole process from concept sketch through completed ensemble." - Chelsea of a Sartorial Statement

"I get excited every time a new post from Anneliese appears in my inbox. She makes fun theatrical costumes and beautiful clothing from the mid-19th c. (and she has a knack for pattern mixing that can always make me smile!)" - Hannah of Fabric & Fiction

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2015 Take Back Halloween! Costume Contest - Winner of Best Queen

"This exquisite costume began life as a discarded 80s prom dress, which Anneliese transformed into queenly attire in a matter of hours the weekend before Halloween...her talent, skill, and eye for balance and detail are superb." - Suzanne Scoggins of Take Back Halloween!

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The pictures and text displayed here are the original creations of The Young Sewphisticate unless directly stated. If there is an image appearing on this blog that belongs to you and do not wish for it to be shared here, please let me know and said image will be removed immediately. Copying without leaving credit or obtaining permission is not appreciated. Thank you!