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Christmas came a week early for me. The headline in yesterday's Telegraph summed it up: 'Jamie and Nigella's meals "unhealthy"'. Researchers at Newcastle University and NHS Tees had compared recipes from books by Jamie Oliver, Nigella Lawson, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Lorraine Pascale, among others, with supermarket ready meals. And the researchers concluded that the much-maligned convenience food is better on all sorts of measures than the stuff these celebrity chefs would have us prepare.

At least Lawson hasn't tried to bang the drum about how the nation should eat. Her recipes are as full-fat as she is full-figured. Lawson's playfully flirtatious presentation is all about giving in, not giving up. The Mockney Moraliser, on the other hand, has had it coming.

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