Netherlorn and its NeighbourhoodChapter VII - Scarba: Gulf of
Coirebhreacain

"Or where the northern
ocean, in vast whirls,
Boils round the naked melancholy isles
Of farthest Thule, and the Atlantic surge
Pours in among the stormy Hebrides."
-Thomson, Seasons.

ON a fine day, when the
atmosphere is clear and a gentle wind from the west deepens the blue of
the sea, the prospect from Dun-Bhrenain is enchanting beyond description.
On all sides stretch the broad waters of the Firth of Lorn, while, with
the exception of the space between Mull and Colonsay on the west, the
circle of the horizon is occupied by islands and highlands of varied hue
and form. On the north and east, softened by distance to a remarkable
uniformity in height, peak after peak of the Grampians and their spurs,
relies of the old central plateau riven and scarred by a thousand glens
and corries, rear their purple heads over a veneer of the grassy hills of
Netherlorn; while on the south, many miles away, the smooth, undulating
form of Islay appears in the leaden-coloured haze of distance, tempering
the transition from the light-blue of the firmament to the deeper azure of
the ocean.

Amidst a galaxy of natural
beauties the massive form of Scarba appears conspicuously, its glittering
cone attaining a height of 1,990 feet. On the north and west the steep
slopes exposed to the fury of the spray-laden blasts of the tempest are
devoid of vegetation, the bare quartzite gleaming like burnished silver.
Skirting the base of the precipices, and about 150 feet above sea-level,
there is a broad belt of raised beach, densely carpeted with rich grass,
but towards the autumn concealed by a forest of bracken, which grows to
enormous proportions in the hollows, attaining a height of 7 feet or more.

Six beehive cells, of a
nature similar to those found in Eilach a' Naoimh, but in a more ruinous
condition, are clustered together on a sheltered depression leading down
from the terrace to the bay called Iurach, the only landing place on this
side of the island. It may be that these cells formed the hermitage of
Muirbulcmar; no such name has been preserved to us in the place-names of
the district; but the probable derivation of the words (Muir, the
sea; bolg, surging or soft; mor, great: the great surging
sea) would indicate proximity to such a wild ocean as may be seen so
frequently from this spot, caused by the rush of the tidal waters of
Coirebhreacain.

The descent from the upper
150-feet to the lower 25-feet terrace, with the exception of the
depression alluded to, is sheer; and here a magnificent waterfall, of one
unbroken leap of 120 feet, may be seen, The eastern shores of the island
slope gently, and are covered with large plantations of pine. On this side
are the only habitations on the island - a gamekeeper's house at
Rudha-na-maol, and a shooting-lodge at Kilmorie. A short distance from the
lodge is the old burial-ground of Kilmorie (Muire, Mary), where at
one time a church dedicated to the Virgin stood; or, as Fordun has it, "Ubi
capella beatae Virginis, qua multa fiunt miracula." No trace of the chapel
remains, and the neglected graveyard is fast being obliterated by fallen
trees and a growth of coppice. The last interment took place about fifty
years ago.

In 1797 there were fourteen
families on the island; now two game-watchers and their families are the
sole occupants, if one except the herds of deer and flocks of wild goat
"that roam over the plain," for the island is now a deer forest.

The dominant position of
Scarba in the landscape of the country has been more than once referred
to; and the somewhat hazardous boat journey and arduous climb are well
repaid by the bird's-eye view of the Netherlorn plateau and islands, and a
wide extent of territory from the Irish coast in the south-west to Ben
Nevis in the north, which is obtained from the summit. The east side is
usually selected as the landing-place, and there are numerous sheltered
bays affording good anchorage for small boats. Many rolling ridges and
long stretches of moorland have to be crossed ere the Cruach (summit) is
reached, but the slopes from this side are gradual. Each new ridge
surmounted, delightful and varied views are displayed; and the climb,
though tiresome, is pleasant. The island itself, apart from its
environment, has many interesting features; in the glades of natural woods
noble specimens of the royal fern are still to be got; the tactics and
habits of the red deer are a never-ending source of amusement and
conjecture; while on the bare scalps and crags of the back of the island
myriads of gulls, so unacquainted with the presence of man that "their
tameness is shocking," find a resting-place. The deep ravines display
striking sections of rock where the geologist may find ample material for
study. The beautifully distinct bands and arches of silvery quartzite
superimposed upon the dark slate make striking pictorial effects. Many of
the small fragments of quartzite display curious blood-red plumose
markings resembling fossil plants, or pressed fronds of dulse. These
curious imitative effects are but an arborescent deposit of earthy oxide
of iron; they are called dendritic markings, and are found on the
divisional planes of fine-grained rocks. The deposit is usually confined
to the surface of the fissure or plane, and seldom takes place within the
stone.

The following description
of Scarba and its wonders may give one an idea of how they appealed to the
imagination of an enthusiastic Highland schoolmaster sixty years ago. The
extract is taken from a letter to a friend in the south, which was
published in the Greenock Advertiser in 1845. The periphrasis is
occasionally ludicrous, and some of the words were constructed by the
dominie himself: - "I am now to endeavour to give you a representation of
the islands you entrusted me with; but I am sorry to confess that you
cannot expect it in any way mellifluent, given you from such an imperfect
describer. But I shall take it for granted that you will be content for
the will in place of the deed.

"Scarba is of a triangular
form. One angle bears east, another bears south, and the third bears west;
and since I did not circumnavigate it altogether, if you had the advantage
of seeing its map, you shall have the goodness of forgiving me if I am
mistaken. It rises, from the east and south-east, gradually into hills and
valleys towards the top of it, of which hills and valleys some of them
very gramineous and are computed very good for nourishing lanigerous
cattle, of which the inhabitants have a great flock. The top of the
mountain is very rugged, and is rendered almost useless, owing to the
number of water ponds, of which there are no less than twelve, and also to
its producing no grass, owing to the conglaciousness of the air in
general; for although the califactiousness of the sun would cause people
to produce sudor almost towards the shore, you would find water
conglaciated upon its top. From the east point of it round towards the
west, and from that to the south point, it is generally inaccessible with
rocks and precipices, insurmountable by wild goats in general, excepting
birds of prey, of which there are a great many that dwell among the
stupendous cliffs, which are very dangerous to the quadrupeds called
lambs, owing to their carnivorous nature (I mean eagles). There was one
lately killed by a lad that had fired at it in its nest in time of
incubation, that measured from the point of one wing to the other no less
than 7 feet; of which there was found in its nest seven heads of the lamb
race.

"Upon the north side of it
(Scarba) lies that area of the ocean nomenclated Beallach a choin ghlais,
whose stream goes with incredible rapidity, and between Scarba and Jura
there is a conglomeration of tremendous billows connubritiated by the
power of those elements called wind and water, and are rendered so
terrificial where conquabated by the strength of said elements as to
become an object of terror to those of a seafaring line when they would
approach it. And as for the west and south-west sides of it, it is out of
my power to describe it, for it would almost at times dishearten a hero,
owing to its being shelterless in any part of it; tides and eddy-tides
circumvolving it on all sides so as to render it dangerous almost at all
seasons, if not aware of it. But of all the objects of dread (of which
there are many) the only one of note is the whirlpool of Cailleach, whose
fame is spread over Europe, owing to its being so dangerous in itself and
its being the cause of many dangers forby. The cause of its (i.e.
Cailleach’s) effervescence (if I may call it) is as yet unknown; but we
must believe that there is a miraculous submaritime vortex that causes a
constipation of billows so as to cause them to reverberate in the calmest
of weather."

The author, Archibald
Sinclair or Maighstir Sgoil Crubach (the lame schoolmaster), was parochial
schoolmaster in the neighbouring parish of Kilbrandon. He called his
school the "Netherlorn Academy," and prided himself upon being the first
dominie in the Highlands to introduce a course of physical exercises into
a school curriculum, or "curricuculum," as he called it. The meagreness of
the schoolmaster's salary and his own improvidence forced him to end his
days in the poorhouse.

The channel between the
north of Scarba and the island of Lunga is known as Bealach a Choin Ghlais
(the Strait of the Grey Dog), or the Little Gulf; while that betwixt Jura
and Scarba is called the Great Gulf, or the Gulf of Coire-bhreacain. The
former is about 1 cable broad, and the stream of water during the greater
part of ebb and flood rushes along the narrow pass with much violence. So
great is the overfall on the current, that even during moderate tides it
is impossible to force a boat through.

The Great Gulf is 6 cables
broad at the narrowest part, and, unlike the Sound of Luing which is long
and sinuous, it is a short, straight, rim-like exit. This fact, and the
enormous disproportion betwixt the capacity of the outlet and the volume
of the seas which are forced up against it during the rise of the tide,
combine to make the passage of the waters the most turbulent and dangerous
on our coasts. In the long, narrow channels of the sounds of Luing and
Clachan the obstruction to the tidal current is sustained for a
considerable distance, and a measure of equilibrium is maintained so that
the speed of the efferent stream seldom exceeds 6 knots, the average being
4 1/2. In the Gulf, however, which is the main outlet for the huge tidal
wave from the Irish Channel banked up in the wedge-shaped basin formed by
the convergence of the chain of islands, Islay, Jura, Scarba and Luing, on
the one side, with Kintyre, Knapdale, and Craignish on the other, the
passage is sudden, so that there is a great overfall and race on the
flood, the current attaining a maximum speed of 9 knots. In some parts the
soundings are 150, 90, and 50 fathoms, but at one place about 300 yards
off Bagh Ban (White Bay), on the shore of Scarba, a blunted, pyramidal
rock shoots up to within 15 fathoms of the surface. The presence of this
sudden obstruction causes the breaking sea which, except at the turn of
the tide, is never absent from the spot; and when the stream is at its
greatest velocity a huge broad spout of green water appears to shoot up
from the depths, breaking in a cataract of foaming, surging sea as it
descends on the further side of the obstruction, and appears to bore its
way down to the bottom of the ocean. The presence of powerful eddies on
each side, but especially one on the Scarba shore, known as the
Saobh-shruth Mor (Great Eddy), causes innumerable whirls, but these are
not very large or dangerous in themselves, apart from the risk that they
might carry small craft into the raging cauldron above the sunken reef.
With strong contrary winds the agitation of the water is very much
increased, and the impression of stupendous, remorseless power, together
with the loud, hoarse, angry roar of the seething maelstrom, makes the
scene awe-inspiring and sublime.

This natural phenomenon is
known as Coirebhreacain - a word which has been translated as the Cauldron
of the Speckled Seas. The natives speak of it as the Cailleach (the Hag).

But even as long ago as the
seventh century, the name Brecan appears to have been a personal one.
Adamnan speaks of the Charybidis Brecani. The ancient topographical work -
the Dinnseanchas--says: "It is the confluence of many seas, each pouring
itself into the place of the other, until they are swallowed down to the
bottom, and until it is like an open cauldron, sucking in and disgorging
its draughts; so that its roaring is like the distant thunder. And it was
into this that Brecan, the son of Partholan, was drawn, and was drowned,
with his fifty boats, when he fled out of Erin from his father." In
Cormac's Glossary it is said: "The seaswhirl round like revolving
compasses, each taking the place of the other, like the paddles of a
millwheel, until they are sucked into the depths, so that the Coire
remains with its mouth wide open; and it would suck even the whole of Erin
into his yawning gullet. Brecan, son of Maine, son of Nial Naoighiallach,
had fifty curraghs trading between Erin and Alban. They fell afterwards on
that coire, and it swallowed them altogether, and not even news of
their destruction escaped from it."

Although from the text of
these writings the name might be said to apply to the passage between
Islay and Ireland, later writers - Fordun, Monro, and others - applied the
name to the present situation. According to popular tradition, the gulf
owes its name to Brecan, a son of the King of Lochlin (Norway). This
prince, to prove his devotion to his love, agreed to pass three days and
nights in his galley at anchor in the Coire. Acting upon the advice of the
wise men of Lochlin, he had three ropes made, one of wool, another of
hemp, and a third of the hair of women of spotless fame. With the aid of
these he anchored in the terrible sea. During the first night the woollen
rope broke, during the second night the hempen rope parted, and - alas for
Brecan and his hopes! - his fearful vigil was almost completed when the
hair of some frail one proved unequal to the strain, the remaining strands
gave way, and the true lover and his ship were engulfed in the sea which
has ever since borne his name. The body of the prince was afterwards
dragged ashore by his faithful black dog which had accompanied him, and
was buried in Uamh Bhreacain (the cave of Brecan) on the shores of Jura.

Many fearsome stories are
told of the dangers of the gulf. How ships in full sail, deserted by their
crews, have gone down and been cast up unharmed on the shore of Bagh na
Muc in Jura; how boats have been saved from the treacherous whirlpool by
the simple expedient of casting a cap or a piece of cork into the vortex,
the gaping vortex immediately collapsing and allowing the frail craft to
pass through in safety; of mariners closing the hatches and remaining
below until the ship was whirled to the bottom and vomited out again.
These stories remind one of Poe's description of the Descent into the
Maelstrom, but are equally fanciful; for except as regards small vessels
and open boats there is no danger; and with these, ordinary prudence and
the observation of the old injunction to "tak' a lang spune to sup wi' the
deil" have made tragedies in the gulf unknown.

The north part of Jura (Ceann
Uachdarach, the upper end) is wild and rugged, indented with skerry-covered
bays, and fringed by a selvage of terraces formed by sills of basaltic
rock. Until a few years ago it formed one extensive sheep farm: now it is
a deer forest. On the shore of Glengarrisdale Bay, a few miles down the
west side, is a cave in which there is preserved - or was a few years ago
- the skull of some unknown warrior. Two deep sword-cuts on the frontal
part of the bone showed that he had died with his face to the foe: one
stroke had cut a disc of bone cleanly off; while the fatal blow had
penetrated deeply into the brain above the temple.

On the whole, this part of
the coast is uninteresting. One well-known traveller says: "Intimate as I
am with Jura, I have little to say of it, and much less to say in its
favour. The distant view of its mountains, remarkable no less for their
conical forms than their solitary reign, leads to expectations that are
not realised." Even our old friend the Maighstir Sgoil Crubach, in talking
of Jura, displays none of that magniloquence which characterises his
description of Scarba. I quote the remainder of his Letter to a Friend
in the South, in which he also refers to the island of Eileach a'
Naoimh, lying to the north-west. "Jura is twenty-four miles in length and
about or between seven or eight miles in breadth, and the west side of it
is uninhabited owing to its infertility. Opposite to Cailleach,
(the north side of it) there are a great many caves and rocks, very
stupendous. There is one cave of note, appellated Uamh Bhreacain,
and in the cave there is a dog's shoulder bone, supposed to be that of the
cu dubh (black dog) that brought Breacan ashore when he was
drowned, which caused that proverb in our vernacular tongue gendered to
us, Tha latha choin duibh gun tighinn fathast.

"The inhabitants of Jura
are generally of a robust constitution, and are inured to hardships. The
produce of the island is almost worthy of no notice, excepting cattle, of
which they have a great many, especially sheep; and they also keep a good
many goats, owing to the ruggedness of the island in general, and they
cannot but be very lucrative owing to their disposition by way of
scrambling rocks and other inaccessible places. Deer are there, too, and
the laird pays a good deal of attention to them.

"Eileacha Naomh bears quite
north from Jura, and it is reckoned an excellent pasturage for cattle.
But, above all, it is worthy of note for its ancient relies of catacombs
and monasteries; and also for the coats of arms that are still to be seen
there, which prove that the founder of them was a most excellent Dedalian,
and undoubtedly that he was an admirer of the rites of the Church of Rome,
because of the handcuffs that are to be seen there, and were used when the
people made their auricular confession, when their hands would have been
pressed with a stone wedge with severity, so that it would have been
impossible for them to have concealed any of their past failures.

"Dear sir, you shall have
the goodness of accepting of this incongruous description, and of
forgiving my inability in construing this description, and had I it in my
power I would de-decorate it with apothegms and consociate it with
irradiance. If you are thinking of using it I beg of you to revise it, and
to supplement what is desiderated so as to make it intelligible. Let me
know whether you are pleased or not, and I bid you adieu, wishing you a
continuity of beatitude and opulence.-

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