I personally find the stock priming handle kind of awkward and it didn't take me long to figure out a means of moving the action to the front of the gun. The only modifications needed to the gun itself involve drilling a pass-through hole in the front of the gun that supports the fore-grip while still allowing it to slide. I wanted the fore-grip to not needlessly enlarge the gun so I also trimmed some excess off of the front, but doing so was not really required.

Here's the template, diagram, and basic instruction sheet for making a Rev. 1 foregrip. http://www.captainsl.../ls-shotgun.doc (1.3mb)Simply print the page out on a full sheet label paper and you can apply the labels as cutting templates to the plastic sheet you're working with. More detailed instructions available below.

Tools needed+ Power drill or Drillpress+ Scrollsaw or Jigsaw+ Ruler+ File\Rasp (for filing down the cut sections of threaded rod)+ IPS Weld-on #3 or #4+ Tapping Set1. First I measured the travel distance of the bolt, which is inbetween 3.25" and 3.5" depending on how tight your spring replacement is. 2. I made a paper template marking where I needed to drill the holes and what shape I wanted to cut the piece out in. 3. I then made two identical pieces out of 3/16" polycarbonate sheet using a drillpress and scrollsaw.4. Then I made a foregrip which keeps the two plates spaced apart and squared, while also acting as an effective foregrip with a guard to keep my hand forward of where the foregrip moves too while priming the bolt (fairly close to the front of the magazine).The foregrip is simply made out of more sheets of polycarbonate adhered together using a solvent adhesive (IPS Weld-On #3)5. I cut two 3.5" lengths of #8-32 threaded rod and used a good number of 1" wide steel washers to space the side plates off of the casing and then used nylon-lock hex nuts to link them to the bolt sled and main shell.

You will need a 1/4" think stack of washers inbetween the side panels of the foregrip and the body shell back near the bolt. Towards the front of the gun you will need a 1/8" thick stack of washers inbetween the two. Althernative you could use Nylon spacers provided their walls are thick enough to support the foregrip.

6. Then I painted the parts and tested them.The end result provides MUCH more leverage for priming the bolt since you are pushing on both side of the bolt at the same time. The spring replacement/addition mod combined with this one makes for a much more comfortable weapon that also has a higher rate of fire since you don't have to change your hand holds to prime the gun.

I'm going to make a set of assembly diagrams and cutting templates in the next day or so to make it more clear how the rest of you can make your own. I also plan to add one or two decorative plates to the side plates just because I want to give them as much depth as the stock body.

Now if you stuck your CSHG to the bottom of that thing, it would be totally sick. I mean, pump-action Longshot with a Gatling gun blaster underneath. You can yell out, "I AM AHHNOLD, EVY BAHDY DOWN!"

Speaking of which, how's that project going? Hope it gets completed enough for some field tests.

Good work on the LS. I'm going back to Honolulu this weekend; hope they have something there (Longshot or Magstrike). Still no signs of them here yet.

-Piney-

0

-Piney- of White Dog Hobbies Armory

<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Speaking of which, how's that project going? Hope it gets completed enough for some field tests.

I haven't had enough free time to devote to it in recent months but the hiatus has allowed me to figure out more detail on the remaining assemblies that I still need to make. Health, school, and work weren't cooperating either. I atleast have a clear picture of how to finish it.

VERY nice! What did you use to make the slot to guide the side plates? It looks very clean. Also, what paint did you use?

The slide is simply two holes drilled apart and then connected by cutting between them with a scrollsaw.The grey is Krylon Fusion Primer. The Orange is a very thin plastic dye paint.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 06 September 2006 - 12:15 PM.

0

The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

I'm working on the CAD files now that will allow me to provide everyone with the cutting templates. I spent a good portion of today refining the internals of this gun and lathing some pieces to replace the washers I was using to support the foregrip.

Is the grip comfortable? It looks like it might be to boxy to be comfortable.

It's very comfortable and has support where needed. The bars in the middle are glued in place to match up with the curvature of my hand. I may add a foam grip to it later on.

0

The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

I'll do that some time this weekend. Right now I want to get the CAD work done and then add the decorative plates. Now that all the internal modifications are done this thing is a bit of a beast so shooting it indoors can be pretty amusing because the darts are bouncing violently off the walls.

0

The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

Here's the template, diagram, and basic instruction sheet. http://www.captainsl.../ls-shotgun.doc (1.3mb)Simply print the page out on a full sheet label paper and you can apply the labels as cutting templates to the plastic sheet you're working with.

0

The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

New pics of the finished gun. Mostly cosmetic additions to the previous images. I adding decorative plates and used the lathe at work to make threaded spacers out of black delrin.Tomorrow night I need to dissect the gun again so I can post images of the internal modifications I made. I haven't replaced the barrel yet but I 1. Replaced the o-ring and face of the plunger with steel washers and a fender washer. Adding a spring as outlined in Carrtoon's thread was quickly resulting in the stock plunger face beating itself out of shape.2. Added a heavier spring to the trigger plate3. Installed the stock spring with a section off of an ar-15 spring

Dry fires are REALLY loud after the above was completed. With the crappy streamline stock darts I'm getting 85 feet flat. I can stand on the front step of my house and shoot the curb on the other side of the cul-de-sac. I can't wait to try weighting the darts and then get to recording a short video clip.

Is polycarbonate basically a kind of plastic sheeting, like lexan?

There are many brands of polycarbonate. The ones that don't suck are: GE Lexan, Tuffak, Rhinex, and Hyzod. Cheaper no-name polycarbonate is only as durable as Acrylic and I try to avoid using it. Check your local phone book for plastics shops or sign-making companies and ask if they work with polycarbonate and if they also sell their off-cuts. You can get almost anything you could possibly want for a few dollars per pound. If bought as scraps the plastic for this project would cost less than $6.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 12 September 2006 - 01:05 AM.

0

The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?