As the lights dimmed to signal the start of Andrew Gn’s show, an omniscient, accented voice gravely announced that the designer had just undergone unexpected surgery for a heart condition. Despite a promising recovery, he could not be present. “Andrew has worked on this collection until the last moment, with all his passion and determination,” the voice continued. “He hopes you will like it.” Leaving barely a minute to process Gn’s life-threatening episode, the pulsing music began and the show went on, beginning with dynamic daywear inspired by getaways to the north of France and ending with sumptuously embellished gowns based on a Chinese imperial porcelain bowl Gn inherited from his parents.

Delineating the collection into two seemingly disparate parts confirmed that Gn is creatively ambidextrous, and clearly enjoys the freedom to propose sharp and soft in a single offering. The latter resituated the butterflies and peonies from his family heirloom against vibrant backgrounds, like a Pop Art homage to chinoiserie. While the butterflies were as detailed as any of the specimens on display at Deyrolle, the embroideries and multicolored stones turned pretty dresses into collector pieces. Waxing rhapsodic about surface treatments feels strange given the circumstances. Fashion may course through Gn’s veins—he’d sooner be inspired by the idea of a vacation than take one—but health comes before all else. So Andrew, we wish you a smooth and speedy recovery. And rest assured, we liked it.