The foamy fermentation is a flavor driver in a number of traditional Irish recipes, especially the Irish stew served after Mass on St. Patrickís Day.

Irish beef stew differs from English or American stew by serving it atop separately cooked potatoes. The mashed spuds become a sop for the gravy. Thatís the essence of colcannon, mashed potatoes with leeks and butter shaped into a boat to hold the stew. If you try this, you might not eat stew any other way.

Another version of colcannon is as a potato side dish without the stew. Some add crumbled, fried bacon and boiled, chopped cabbage.

Irish beer bread is a simple but satisfying quick bread. Feel free to add more sugar if you like it sweeter. If the colcannon does not suit you, ladle the stew over warm slices of this flavorful bread. Otherwise serve with butter and marmalade for an authentic Irish taste.

IRISH BEER STEW

3 pounds beef chuck roast

3 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons olive oil

12 ounces dark beer, such as Guinness

1 cup onion, chopped

1 cup carrots, sliced

1/2 cup parsnips or turnips, peeled and sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon thyme

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Trim fat from beef and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Dust cubes with flour. Heat olive oil in stew pot and brown beef. Add beer and stir until gravy forms. Add remaining ingredients and simmer covered for an hour or until beef is tender. Adjust gravy with more beer if necessary. While the stew cooks, make the colcannon.

IRISH COLCANNON

2 1/2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered

1 1/2 cups chopped leek whites

1 cup milk

1 pinch ground mace

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup butter, melted

Boil potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes. Simmer leeks in milk with mace for 10 minutes. Drain potatoes and mash, adding milk and leeks to the consistency you desire.

Mound on plates, creating a well in the center. Add butter. Ladle stew over potatoes and serve.