Here is Boinx Software's response to my query about using cameras (in my case, my Micro Four Thirds camera) not supported by their software, but feature Live View.

"Why not use the HDMI output of those cameras and get the live feed into iStopMotion via an HDMI grabber like the Black Magic Ultra Studio Mini Monitor? iStopMotion then just can capture the live video feed as the images."

A number of canon and nikon cameras are compatible with this software via USB (while in Live View), but according to the publisher, you should be able to use any camera with an HDMI output using the Blackmagic Design UltraStudio Mini Recorder, which has SDI and HDMI in and Thunderbolt out to the computer. Tthis is an older unit, with Thunderbolt 1, and I'm not sure if it is still available except on places like ebay Blackmagic Design UltraStudio Mini Recorder w/ Thunderbolt BDLKULSDZMINREC NEW 9338716001846 | eBay

In any case, I have not tested this configuration, however, when I talked to Boinx Software, this is what they recommended. If I can find their email, I'll update this post with any other info they may have supplied.

A lot of shooters are going for that look these days... Were you shooting wide open? In any case, I don't think there's anything wrong with your camera, but I am no expert on this model. It was a basic consumer model from the 50s. I found some sample images from that camera, and some resemble what you have here. Yashica-A – Sample-Image.com

Many lenses can be adapted to many different cameras without the need of physically adapting the mount - all you need is an adapter between the lens and the camera - but there are a lot of technical reasons on why some lenses will work on one brand and not on another, namely "flange distance," also called "registration distance." This is the distance between the lens mount and the film plane / sensor plane. Lenses are engineered to meet these distances, and not all brands are the same. That distance on Pentax cameras (both film and digital) is 45.46mm. Canon's FD mount flange distance is 42mm - that's the mount on your AE. Without an adapter that has additional optics within it to correct for the difference in flange between the two brands, it would be impossible to use that FD lens on Pentax - it wouldn't be able to focus on the film plane. But if you want to explore adapting vintage lenses, you're in luck, as the Pentax M42 screwmount was a standard mount across many, many camera brands throughout the 60s and 70s, so there are tons of M42 lenses out there that you can use on your Pentax - all you'd need is a K mount to M42 adapter, which you can get easily. The genuine Pentax brand is probably a better choice than the cheap Chinese adapters, to be honest, but there are tons of those on ebay. A quick search on ebay will show you how many different lens adapters are available (I just purchased a Voigtlander Prominent to Leica M, for instance, and I have an Exakta to Nikon adapter with optics to correct for the difference in register). Now, all this being said, if one has a mirrorless camera such as the Sony A series, Micro Four Thirds, Fuji, etc, the world of adapted lenses increases tremendously, as these cameras have very shallow flange distances, and therefor can have just about any SLR or rangefinder lens adapted to them. Here is a site that lists the flange distances for just about every camera brand out there: Alphabetical List of Camera Mounts Of course, you can get old manual Pentax lenses with K mounts (K, M or A lenses) and not worry about adapting at all, you can just mount that to your K-1 and shoot away.

I've been on ebay for 18 years, and have bought and sold many, many items. one advantage to using ebay is that your potential market is incredibly large. I've sold gear to folks all around the world, and have purchased from all around the world. but at the same time, competition can be higher (there are 31 DA 21mms on ebay right now, and 85 DA40s), which can drive prices down. You can research similar items that have sold to see how much to expect from your sales. You can choose to sell via auction, or set your price by using "Buy It Now" (you can also accept best offers). Each listing includes 12 free photos of your item. Unless you are generous enough to offer free shipping (I only do this for very high priced items), the buyer pays for shipping. Ebay does take a small percentage of your final sale price. I believe you must set up a PayPal account in order to sell. I would highly recommend that anyway, as it makes it very easy for buyers to pay for the items, and I find that the easier it is for people to buy, the more likely they are to. International buyers must use ebay's Global Shipping Program - all you do is ship to the distribution center in Kentucky, and they ship the package internationally for you. Lately, I've been using USPS Flat Rate Boxes to send my sales out. If you purchase your postage through ebay, you get a discount on the rates. you may get more money selling here in the Marketplace, but I have no experience with that, so others will have to fill you in on that.

Ha! So true. I was in Iceland in July 2013. The sun never came out the week we were there. When we asked a local which was the best month to visit, they replied, "July." :D I didn't mind the weather, however I had to borrow a raincoat and hat.

I think you'll likely use your DA15 most of the time (especially if you visit Gulfoss, or any of the other waterfalls). but a short tele might be nice, so your plan of taking a DA40 is a good one. I was travelling very light, and only had room for a single 50mm (equivalent) with me, and that was good enough for most things, however a wider lens (in the 20 to 24 equivalent range) would have been more useful.

beautiful shots! I spent two weeks in Europe a few years back, and since I was packing light myself, I only took my original Q, the 01, and a 13mm Wollensak d-mount lens for moody shots. I wish I'd had a wide and a tele with me (if such primes existed, toy lenses not withstanding), but in general the Q did the job quite nicely.

I've said a number of times in the past that I'd love it if Pentax joined Micro Four Thirds - I think it would be an awesome camera. It would be better designed than either Oly's or Panny's cameras, and it would have the advantage of a HUGE lens catalog right off the bat - no more complaining about the lack of third party lens options. but so many Pentax folks scoff at this idea - so much so that this is the last time I'll mention it... There's so much negativity in Pentax Land when mirrorless comes up, it's almost as bad as the Canon and Nikon bashing! :D

check the "sold listings" on ebay to give you a better idea of its value. you can select sold listings on the left of your search results. there currently is only one sold silver K-5. it went for $515, but only had 450 shutter actuations and came with the silver 40mm XS

I have no experience with them, but Laowa / Venus has a 15mm f4 for K Mount (mentioned above), and a forthcoming 12mm f2.8 zero distortion lens on the way, also for K Mount. It'd probably still be cheaper to go with the Pentax FA 20mm f2.8, or older Pentax M or A lenses, though.

I think it's great that you have the discipline to go the manual route to learn the principles of photography. It's too easy to let the camera do all the work, not learning as much in the process. That being said, as long as you understand those principles, any automation you choose to use in the future will be purposeful, with full knowledge of what your resulting image will be.

I've been shooting since the late 70s. When I got my first SLR (Pentax MV), I shot in Aperture Priority, and later in Program mode up until the late 80s, where I went completely Manual (Nikon FM2n). It was also here that I ceased using zoom lenses and when to primes. I continued that way until 2004 when I went digital. Now I shoot almost exclusively in Aperture Priority (with manually set ISO), primarily because I know what I want my depth of field to be, and then I make any exposure compensation on the fly. Yes, I could still be shooting completely manually, but by setting the aperture and ISO manually, I'm happy to have the camera make the shutter speed setting for me. It's faster, but it's still purposeful.

I guess what I'm saying is that my style changed here and there according to what I had learned. Perhaps your style will change organically as well, as you learn more about photography, more about yourself and more about what you enjoy shooting.

I worked with a so-called "director of photography" on a film shoot years ago who misunderstood basic camera directions and terminology. Every time he claimed he wanted to "stop down" the lens, he would open the aperture wider (and vice versa).

Quite frankly, "deep" and "shallow" in reference to depth of field have been accepted industry terms for decades upon decades - just like "dolly," "truck," "pan," "tilt," etc... (it drives me nuts when someone says "pan up," as such a direction simply does not exist). It is completely acceptable to view those that don't use industry terminology as amateurs in need of an education. :)