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First I'd like to thank Billy Brooks and Jason Wong they've been helping me and have committed to helping me through next year. You guys rock!

This will be part swap, part set-up, part R&D, part how-to. I probably could have put this in conversions or motorsports but thought it best fit projects.

In the effort of free information and transparency, for fellow auto-x enthusiasts, I thought I'd begin a new thread. As many know the car in question has had a good and successful life as a STX car. Although I believe it would have performed admirably next year and beyond, in STX, I was bored with it and ready for a change. I have not worked on the car in over 2 years more than basic maintenance and really missed throwing wrenches so I dived into something different. And putting it in *SP will guaranty that I'll probably have something to constantly wrench on.

I had thought about selling it but I could not bear to part with my car! It has served me well for 7 years and at around 78,000 miles it goes under the knife.

What began as a thought or idea on the drive home from Topeka this September has became a full fledged obsession sitting in my garage. If you're prepping a 350+ ft-lb of tq. engine with a stock 5 speed transmission you must have some level of commitment to the side effects that are bound to come along.

I first laid out a basic cost/component structure. Then I laid out a schedule to start around the 1st of November 2008 and get it out of the garage by the end of March 2009. I know I have the advantage of it not being a DD.

All of this begins with owning the service manuals to each year. The internet is your friend. I may seem to go back and forth on some sequences with the project but it will probably be dictated by the availability at the time of funds/parts.

For those who didn't tune in when the thread was started: We put a 2.5 out of a 2007 wrx in it , along with the complete wiring harness. Worked through some issues. Threw some diffs in it and some big old tires on it and went racing.

I made the decision to go with a helical front and a 1.5 clutch rear. I will be currently leaving the factory center diff in. In conversations with others they did not necessarily like the performance of the 35/65. It will be using either the top street clutch/pressure plate or the low end H-D version. I see no need to put unneeded load on the gearsets and would rather go through clutches instead. I will also be replacing the flywheel with lighter a street version.

I will be performing these projects myself because no good ESP/WRX build would be complete without an extra transmission and a small shop press.

Update 2/16/09
Got around to installing the cusco rear. I pulled the drain plug and got:

I'd say I was very lucky last season to not have a failure. Probably even luckier that the pro-finale was rain. There were actually (2) whole teeth and a bunch of shards from the spider gears.

The swap was pretty straight forward. It took about 2 hours to pull it from the car, swap it, and re-install it in the car.

Installed the helical diff this morning.
I already had the trans split that we blew 1st gear in at the dc pro in 2007. It has a new mainshaft, 1st and 2nd.

I made this by buying 2 $10.00 sockets. (1) 50mm and (1) 2.25" cut the top off of the 50 and welded them together.

It's need for taking off and putting ~ 200 ft lbs on the pinion nut

Here's the internals of the trans with the new diff on left

I need to pull the bearings off of the old diff. You can use a bearing seperator on the right side one.

The left side one is kind of recessed so you need to improvise, they're not that tight.

Then transfer the bearings to the new diff. You could press or drive them on. An old T.O. bearing works great. Right side bearing should stay on the right, left on left.

Transfer the ring gear and the pieces will be ready to go back in the trans.

Drop them in......watch the alignment pins on the front mainshaft and pinion bearings.

Seal and bolt the cases together. No I didn't forget the counterweight thing that hangs on 5th.

Put the center and tail on and you have a it ready to go back in.

Diffy goodness, I can't wait.

Couple things. I did not check backlash or anything. I think 1st or 2nd gear will blow up before anything else would go wrong. I wasn't concerned about being anal with it. I did replace te front and rear seals, however.

Yeah for the autopsy table and home made trans stand

Now I can drop the trans that's in the car and install this one.........sadbanana - banana

For the beginning of the year it will be using my existing sways which are Whiteline 22mm front and 27mm rear.

About 98% of the suspension bushings were changed long ago so everythingís good there.

Itíll be on zzyzx coil-overís and more than likely have to play with spring rates.

For STX I was 10k front 12k rear so I would think it needs to be 12k front 14k rear, but I have no idea. I may need to address the lack of front bar. I like a car that has the tendency to spin on the way to the start line.

So....I've pretty much gotten the suspension installed and I've been going through the process of checking clearance and spring combinations. I obviously had an issue with the fronts, w/8 " springs, w/no spacers. I could run spacers but I'm really trying to keep the car as narrow as possible. I borrowed some 7" springs from a local and tried them on the front, ultimately I need 6" to get the collar above the tire. I had contenplated removing the helper but didn't want to deal with the issues.

So I ordered some swift 12K 6" for the front and I'm hoping there are no coil bind issues. I'm going to move the 7" 14K to the back because they are the appropriate rate I'm looking to start with and I need somtehing a bit shorter on the back to get the collar over the tire. Even though there is no rubbing issue now in the rear, that may change if I have anything more than -.5 camber in the rear.

I'm not entirely sure if I'm on the correct the spring rates to start with. I don't know if they'll be a reason to keep the rear bias the same as an STX car. My thoughts are the car will still have the tendency to understeer, even with the diffs. I would much rather it be tail happy and have to tune it out then the other way around, I guess.

I also put the factory front bar back on and took the 22mm whiteline off. I'm hoping the car immediately swaps ends, big tires and all.

So as I have the car now.
Front is at -2.5 camber with a 1/6" toe out Ride height = 13.75" Track = 71 1/4"
Rear is at -.5 camber with an 1/8" toe out Ride height = 14" Track = 68 5/8"

Track was measured outside of tire to outside of tire

I feel it's a good starting point and can adjust from there, once the car's actually been put to use.

Looks like you're having fun! Keep up the good work and let me know if I can be of any help!

Jay

Thanks Jay, I'll be in touch.

I've had to many years of laying in a driveway changing parts in freezing temps to ever go backwards. I have a good size electric unit heater that brings it up to 55* easily, even when it's 0* out. About $600.00 in insulation and a couple days work, the rafters are done as well.

Believe me I know I have it good.......... I've been out there since 5:00 am this morning cleaning/organizing <-----disturbes teh wifey less that way .

I can't wait to see the car in action!!!! Think it'll be done for the NWOR opener? If our Spinwerkes fit over your brakes, you're welcome to try them....Pat Lipsinic (PatrickL-Top_Dog) is trying to get something going with Rota for a 15x10.

I can't wait to see the car in action!!!! Think it'll be done for the NWOR opener? If our Spinwerkes fit over your brakes, you're welcome to try them....Pat Lipsinic (PatrickL-Top_Dog) is trying to get something going with Rota for a 15x10.

Jay

It should be ready for tuning mid-march, so it should make the 1st event. How well it's sorted is gonna be another issue.

I saw the group buy and was tempted but there's no way 15's are gonna clear the stoptechs. The rotors are 13 inches as it is. I want to keep them for the potential reality of getting back into track days.

I did start it yesterday without a glitch and it's solid and smooth past redline. No bad noises or stumbles....... Which was a big fear of mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ButtDyno

Specs on the heater?

ceiling mount 208 v on a 60 amp double pull putting out ~ 25,600 btu's The garage is 20x24 so that's right there for an insulated space of that size in my region.

Uber cool project. I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm still here to watch. I send you an email, but this question hasn't hit yet, are you going to use an 05+ steering rack and front crossmember? I know I would if I was doing this.

Uber cool project. I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm still here to watch. I send you an email, but this question hasn't hit yet, are you going to use an 05+ steering rack and front crossmember? I know I would if I was doing this.

Also, probably not much I can help with, but let me know if I can.

Good catch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mykrrrr

Can't wait to see the finished product Greg.

Me either.....Hopefully there is a finished product.

0* this week and I'm having a hard time finding the ambition to turn the heat on.