Using the N8101 is very straightforward. Its tiny size will allow it to
be placed nearly anywhere. Solder points #1 and #2 are the power
input connections. Power input to the N8101 can be up to 16-volts, and can
be either analog DC, DCC. AC voltage can also be used but
is limited to 13.5-volts max.. Solder point #3 is –DC output (or ground), and solder point #4 is +DC output. See figure 1.

Figure 1

Also
included on the N8101 is solder point #5. This is an optional connection
point provided for +DC resisted voltage output to a polarity sensitive
device such as an LED. Figure 2 below shows the back side of the N8101.

Figure 2

Shown
are the two solder pads provided for either an 1/8-watt or 1/4-watt
surface-mount type resistor. When a resistor is installed, the circuit
through to solder point #5 is completed so the resistor is in series with
the +DC output #5. Connecting a device such as an LED between #5 and #3 will
provide power for the LED.Note: For proper LED operation, resistor
selection must be calculated based on maximum expected input and LED
voltage. If you need help to determine proper
resistance, please go here.

When
connecting an LED to the module, proper polarity must be observed. LEDs are
“polarity sensitive” and will not function if connected backwards. Connect the LED cathode (the – connection) to point #3 on the module and connect the LED anode (the +) to solder point #5.

Important
note:
A low-wattage iron with a pointed tip should be used for connection of
wires. Too much heat or solder can easily damage the wires, or the module
and void its warranty.

When soldering a resistor
to the pads shown in figure 2 above, pay particular attention to the left
pad (closest to solder points 3, 4 & 5). This solder pad also connects to
the filter capacitor on the front-side of the board. Excessive heat during
resistor soldering on this pad could conduct through the board and cause the
capacitor to partially desolder from the circuit.

Also, allwires should be
pre-tinned before soldering them to the N8101. This will make connection
quick and easy and ensure excessive heat is not applied to any solder
points.

Flicker control:

Included in this package are 10 100uf 16-volt tantalum polarized capacitors.
Tantalum capacitors are superior to other polarized capacitors because they
have a larger storage capacity for their size and do not “age” like other,
electrolytic polarized capacitors do. In modeling where small scale factors
dictate available space, these little jewels can be very useful for storing
an electrical charge and releasing it when input power is momentarily
interrupted. In model railroading, dirty spots on the track are a common
source for tiny power interruptions.

Polarized capacitors have a plus DC connection, and a minus DC connection.
By wiring them in parallel (all pluses connected together, & all minuses
connected together), their storage capacities (uf, or microfarads) are added
together.

NEVER
wire them in series with each other (end to end).

Because of their “boxy” shape and tiny size, they can be stacked
strategically to utilize the least amount of space possible. These
capacitors have a stripe and an angle at one end that identifies the plus
(+) DC connection. Figure 3 below shows an example of 6 capacitors stacked
and soldered in parallel. You can use the #26 solid wire in this package for
that purpose.

Figure 3

Using
all 10 capacitors would provide 1000uf of capacitance and could support
a maximum DC voltage of 16-volts.

Putting it all together:

Since the capacitors are DC devices, they cannotproperly function with any othertype of input voltage. As a result, they
must be connected“behind” the N8101 DC Power Source module at
the output solder points 3 & 4. Input from
the track pickups connect to solder point 1 & 2.See figure 1 on the
front of this instructionfor more detail.

We recommend using the two 4” segments of #32 black super-flex wire for
connections to points 1 & 2, because this wire is designed for repeated
flexing and can easily withstand the rotation of trucks on rolling stock
as they negotiate curved track. This flexing is what this wire is
designed for.

The red and black #32 hook-up wire can be used to connect the N8101
output solder points 3 & 4 to the capacitor “bank” connections, then on to whatever device(s) you
will be providing power to. Simply just cut these wires into whatever
lengths work for your project and strip and tin their ends before
attaching them to the N8101 or the capacitor bank. Figure 4 below shows
a typical wiring diagram for connection of one of our Lighting Effects
Simulators.