Well my new 2009 has 28k, and i've drivin it twice since i bought it saterday. It drives like a new one but sometimes while driving down the road it starts to shudder. It's like running over a rumble strip for a few seconds. The 3 year warranty ran out 3 weeks ago.

I hope the dealer will stand behind the jeep and correct the issue.
Is there any advice that will help me get this problem solved?
I know there was a TSB back in 07, so they have had this problem for awhile.
Also does the jeep have a powertrain warranty that extends past 3 years?
Thanks for any help and advice.

The torque converters are garbage in these things. My '11 has shuddered since new, particularly at lower speeds or when backing into my driveway. A TC that has stronger springs would solve 99% of the problems with shuddering and vibration on these things.

The torque converters are garbage in these things. My '11 has shuddered since new, particularly at lower speeds or when backing into my driveway. A TC that has stronger springs would solve 99% of the problems with shuddering and vibration on these things.

This was also a common problem on the CRD Jeeps sold here in the states. The torque converter dampener springs were spec'd for the gas models (Ram trucks, etc.). So they were fine. But when they put those same converters in the Jeep CRDs the TC springs were not strong enough to hold the diesel torque. The updated Mopar converters that came out a few years later were the exact same converters as far as the body, fins, etc.. but the springs were upgraded. It solved all the chattering and shuddering problems and made the vehicle drive better.

I used to have a pic of a Mopar converter cut open so you could see how they upgraded the springs.. but I can't find that pic.

In any case, having dealt with this before.. as soon as I took ownership of this '11 JK I quickly noticed that it has a garbage torque converter in it. I could barely back into my driveway on stock tires. It was sad. The 4.88s are helping out quite a bit.

Edit:

I found the pics. Notice how the newer Mopar converters for the Jeep Liberty now have stiffer springs in them.

So should the dealer sugest a newer TC, or will they just say that's the way it works?

The JK NEEDS a heavier-duty torque converter. But the odds of Jeep having an updated part for JKs like they do KJs is unlikely. So, they will say "it's normal" and send you on your way.

It's a shame, because I've read countless threads about JK owners experiencing the shudder issues...but the aftermarket largely never comes up with upgrades for the transmissions on these things.

Companies like Suncoast can sell you a torque converter for your Jeep that will solve most issues. But that's an expensive way to go and I would see what your dealer will actually do for you other than the TC that might fix your problem first. Always try the cheap options first.. if in the end you still get the shudder, a stronger torque converter may be the last resort.

Funny, I've seen two, maybe three mentions of a shudder problem in a Jeep tranny. My 2009 doesn't do this at all.

Take it back. Something isn't right.

I've seen two, maybe three THREADS about a shudder in a Jeep tranny. And each thread had maybe 20 people complaining about the same thing.

On the Jeep Liberty the problem became so epidemic (because the diesel torque makes it more noticeable) that they were replacing torque converters for free even out of warranty. On the JK, the engine is so weak that it's not as noticeable and a lot of people just live with it. But it's there.. it's definitely there. Trying to back my small utility trailer into my driveway was like sitting on a washing machine during the spin cycle prior to the 4.88 gears. These TCs just have no grip at all.

I had this same issue with mine early on. It disappeared shortly after I changed the ATF.

If that JK hasn't had an auxiliary trans cooler installed there's a good chance the trans oil has been cooked. Step one, put a cooler on it before it goes up in flames like a bonfire, second, in the process of installing the cooler, flush out the trans oil and pour in some fresh ATF-4.

The latter procedure is easy, peasy: Install the new cooler kit, attach the pressure side of the return hose to the input port of the new cooler. Run about a five foot length of tranny hose from the return port on the new cooler into a clear container pre-marked in one quart increments. An old milk bottle will do. Start the engine and pump out two quarts of ATF, shut the engine off. Pour two fresh quarts back in. Repeat about five more times. Voila, fresh fluid. Connect the return hose port at the new cooler to the cut at the stock line. Done. In about 1k miles after the ATF flush the shudder completely disappeared on mine.

I am trying to figure out if this issues is the same as mine. If not, I will keep searching or start a new thread.

I have an 08 with 16k. When I'm around 40ish mph, it feels like my RPMs drop and I get stuck in like, a dead zone where my throttle doesn't want to work as I slowly push the gas. Finally it seems like it downshifts and the RPMs jump up. If I have OD off, it doesn't seem to do it. I do get a slight, vibrating kinda hesitation feeling. Is this kind of what you're experiencing, or is it something different.

I have a 30 day unlimited warranty since I just bought it last week, so anything I need fixed I wanna do now before I have a 300 dollar deductible with my 100k warranty, lol.

I am trying to figure out if this issues is the same as mine. If not, I will keep searching or start a new thread.

I have an 08 with 16k. When I'm around 40ish mph, it feels like my RPMs drop and I get stuck in like, a dead zone where my throttle doesn't want to work as I slowly push the gas. Finally it seems like it downshifts and the RPMs jump up. If I have OD off, it doesn't seem to do it. I do get a slight, vibrating kinda hesitation feeling. Is this kind of what you're experiencing, or is it something different.

I have a 30 day unlimited warranty since I just bought it last week, so anything I need fixed I wanna do now before I have a 300 dollar deductible with my 100k warranty, lol.

What you describe sounds like it's going into overdrive, then the torque converter locks up.
When you press on the gas pedal, the gearing is too high to get any acceleration. Further pressing finally makes it unlock, and possibly downshift.

I leave the overdrive off around town for this very reason.

I have also found that if I stab the pedal a little, (not to the floor), it will make it downshift a lot sooner than if I press slowly.