I'm listing/selling these 2 items on behalf of my father. If you have any questions that aren't answered in the description/s below, please contact me and I'll get back to you ASAP. They are being sold separately, however a package deal will be considered.
1 - For sale is this beautiful Nikon F-801 SLR camera (body ONLY) in excellent condition. There are some VERY minor marks and scratches on the body itself, but that's to be expected of any camera of this age. Other than that it is in perfect working, it has NO dust or mould anywhere, and you'll struggle to find another example of this model in better condition. It comes with the original instruction manual and the shoulder strap as shown in the photo. It also has an additional/accessory shutter release (the silver button just under the model name/F-801 in the photo) which can be easily removed to connect a shutter release cable. The ONLY difference between the actual item and the photograph is that the protective/lens cap is actually black, not white, but otherwise it is exactly as shown and described. Batteries not included, but it only takes 4x AA batteries, not one of those more expensive camera batteries.
PLEASE NOTE : This is a traditional SLR camera, NOT a digital SLR.
Asking $80 but reasonable offers will be considered.
2 - For sale is this Nikon 43-86mm f3.5 zoom lens in excellent condition and in perfect working order with NO dust or mould. It comes with a reversing ring, and when reversed this lens presents an image of 1:1 which is great for macro photography. It also comes with a soft vinyl case which has a soft velvet type lining. This lens is one of Nikon's first zoom lenses and it IS acknowledged in the photographic community as a collectors item, so get in quick and grab it before someone else does.
PLEASE NOTE : This lens is for a traditional SLR camera, NOT a digital.
Asking $100 but reasonable offers will be considered.
My father has used both of these items extensively as semi-professional photographer, however, at 87 years old he is no longer able to use conventional SLR cameras due to failing eye sight, so that's why he is selling them.
Both items come from a smoke and pet free home.
Pick up from Campbelltown NSW is preferred, although postage is available at the buyers request, the price of which will be quoted if/when requested. Because of the value of these items, Registered Post is recommended, however, if the buyer chooses only regular or Express, they do so at their own risk and no responsibility will be accepted for any damage incurred during transit.

No, I haven't done that yet, but it is on the "to do" list of things that I know I can do/check. Waiting for any other possible suggestions before doing any more though so that I can do as many as possible at the same time.

I've had a problem with my S13 for a while with my speedo not working the majority of the time (and in turn the odometer), and on the times that it does "work", some of that time the needle bounces all over the place. I've replaced the speed sensor cable (see attached pics, cable circled in red in the second pic) hoping it would solve the problem but it hasn't made any difference and the problem is still there.
Can anyone suggest any other possible easier/minor things that I can check and/or replace myself before having to look at bigger and expensive solutions?
Cheers in anticipation
Scott

Thanks for the A Protuis, been a LOT of years since I got one of those. The car (and obviously the tank) were in fact sitting still for a while, well over 12 hours actually, and when I first looked at the gauge on Sunday afternoon it was still in the same bottomed out position, even with the engine running. Nothing changed until I did as previously explained, so something that I did "worked", and after driving a lot yesterday and again so far today, the gauge is still working. I hear what you're saying about the possibility of an intermittent fault when the fuel is at a certain level, but I haven't put more in so with all the driving that I've done it's even lower than before. Whatever has happened my gauge is working again so to be honest with everyone I don't care how as long as it's working again.
Thanks for the offer brownie, but I've already got all of the wiring and circuit diagrams

Thanks for the responses guys, and as I said, the gauge is working just fine again now.
I do appreciate the suggestions, and I don't want to appear to sound ungrateful at all, but why is it that some people insist that their ideas are the only ones and that the problem couldn't possibly be something else? As I said in my second comment, I know sweet FA about the workings of modern car mechanicals and electrics/electronics, but that doesn't mean that I know nothing. With so much computerised stuff in modern cars I thought it couldn't hurt to try "rebooting" things by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and removing/checking/reinstalling all of the fuses, and the gauge is working again so I'm happy with the result. I do get the concept of the baffle dislodging and/or breaking up and part of it jamming the float, but I also understand the concept that this is most likely to happen and possibly clear itself whilst driving when the baffle/s would be subject to the same movement, bumps and vibrations as other parts of the car. If the car is stationary then the baffles (or any part of them) will also be stationary, which in turn means that they're not moving to either lodge or dislodge in or from the float. Because the car WAS stationary when I tried what I did, that means it was EXTREMELY unlikely for the baffle to be able to move at all, and because I "fixed" the problem at the time it seems equally unlikely to me that the baffle was the cause of the initial problem. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but if you think logically about what I've just said then it is HIGHLY unlikely. If that's the case then in turn it means one of 3 things.
1 - that what I did actually worked (worth noting for future reference)
2 - that there is a fault somewhere in the gauge cluster, or ...
3 - that as brownieS15 said, there is a fault (intermittent or otherwise) somewhere in the circuit or with a sender.
BTW brownie, I do have the full wiring and circuit diagrams, but as previously stated I know FA about modern car electric/electronics, so if the fault does return I'll have my auto sparkie check it out as well as getting a more knowledgeable car mate help me to check out the baffles.
One final thought. Sometimes "over thinking" a situation can be a good thing, although in some circles it's also called thinking out side the box or lateral thinking, and in a lot of cases it sure beats tunnel vision.

The only other time I've ever had any kind of fuel issue was about 3-4 years ago when the fuel pump died, not bad for 12 years and for a car that's 25 years old. I've never had anything like you described though, but I'll keep that in mind for future reference so thanks for that.
Knowing as much as I do about modern mechanicals and electrics/electronics (that means sweet FA ) I thought I'd go through everything that I could possibly think of this afternoon. I thought that it might be some kind of electrical glitch, so I disconnected the battery, then removed, checked and replaced EVERY fuse (yeah I know, overkill). I'm sure a lot of guys on here will say "that won't fix anything", but guess what? I must have done something right because the gauge is working again now, so maybe it was only a glitch after all, fingers crossed.

Driving home last night my fuel gauge "died", stopped working totally, ie the needle dropped well below the empty mark, something that has NEVER happened before in 12 years. Everything else still works ok, car runs normally etc, but now the fuel gauge gives me no reading at all.
Any ideas or suggestions as to what to check and/or replace would be greatly appreciated.
cheers