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Last December I was looking for a frame that is a good all-rounder, is comfortable, has a big tyre clearance, is stiff enough for racing and can be used year-round. I always liked Trek and Emonda looked like a perfect fit. The H2 geo wasn't exactly to my liking, but since I wasn't really feeling comfortable on mine Venge, which was longer and lower, I though something little bit more relaxed should fit me well. I really liked Emonda's riding quality, but I never truly felt comfortable on the bike. I got feeling the reach of the bike wasn't right, but I wasn't sure if it's either too long or short. I tried couple of things and end up with conclusion the was to short and I need something longer.

I got lucky and seen second-hand Trek Madone H1 in 60 size. I though about it a lot and got feeling the bike would be touch too long, but I was guessing if I swap my beloved 130 stem for 120 I would be just fine. Truth is there is no need for me to use shorter stem as I just feel perfectly fine on the bike even with 130 stem. I think I would never guess I need 409mm of reach paired with 130 stem to not feel crumpled on the bike.

This version of Madone was always my dream. I started cycling at the same time as Trek has released this frame. I spent countless hours playing with Project One and looking into brochures. I end up with Madone 4.7. The frame was the oldschool non-aero design and I promised my self that one day I will ride the 7 Series. I think the circle is completed now. I would probably choose a different colors, but in flesh the paint job is really nice and unique. I got tired of seeing black, red and white bikes everywhere.

Made a lot of changes since I got this bike. Bontrager XXX stem, FC-9000, Fizik Volta saddle and Reynolds Aero 46 tubulars.

Wow that was brave to jump into a H1 fit using a 130mm - 17 degrees stem when you didn't feel exactly right on the Venge. Glad it worked out in the end! Yup mid-depth wheels are definitely much better for this frame.

I really like the way this frame rides. It is shame I didn't try it earlier. I was scared of the rear brake position, but it is causing no problems. On the other hand I am cleaning my bike after every ride which probably helps. Also I went with Jagwire Link and it is a way to go for brake housing.

I wasn't entirely sure if tan walls will go with the frame colours, but I tried it and it looks great in my eyes. Also I am impress with the frame clearance. These tires looks more like 27c and there is plenty of clearance on both sides. I will go for mid-depth wheels, 45-55 is the sweet spot. Since I will both racing and training on the same wheels I will most probably go for clinchers.

It should have been little bit of a weight weenies project, but the frame is rather porky for 7 series and clinchers are also heavy so I will no longer aim for 6,8kg mark, but rather do this a workhouse bike with reliable components. Zipp SL Sprint stem and new Rotundo Pro bars are two items I am aiming next.

Nice! Looks great, but that is one heck of a drop you've got going there. If that's what you like/need then so be it, but judging by the uncut steertube I'm thinking maybe you're still experimenting a bit. If it were mine, I'd put a Bontrager -7 degree stem on and angle the bars so that the drops are the same angle as the stem. The bars are pretty much at that angle now anyway. That should put everything in line with the top tube a bit more and if you were going to end up higher in the front anyway, that's a better way to get there than adding spacers and sticking with the -17. Just my opinion. Although it would raise the bars by close to 2cm just from that change alone, so if you really need the bars that low, then what you've got going on there right now is your best bet short of a supernegative "rise" track stem, which would start to look really funky. I can't imagine you wanting to be lower however?

And the tan sidewalls do look good with that frame, as does the white saddle. I think I might even go with some white bar tape on this build. But for the next photo... lose the ass saver, for the photo at least. The Trek racing frames look really good in a 60 H1 I think. As long as you can handle the short H1 headtube.

That's the shorter seatmast as well, isn't it? Perhaps the taller one would extend a bit further down giving it more of a flow rather than being bisected right in the middle if that makes sense.

That is my size, so I'm very particular when studying bikes in the same size range as mine. What is your saddle height and handlebar drop as it sits in the photo if you mind me asking. Actually, I'm going to include all that size related data in my post I just did because I think people like to know. Just haven't gotten to it yet. Enjoy it, it came out nice.

Yes, I am still experimenting a little bit, but not by much. I have raised the handlebars by 1cm and I feel good on the bike. I always needed a lot of drop on my bikes, but I believe I am still relatively aero since I don't have a problems to ride with my arms parallel to the ground. Will end up with -10° PRO stem and 9cm dust cover. The should give me the same position as I have know only by few millimetres longer.

That is my current position on the Trek in aero tuck.

Regarding your question Calnago my measurements are below. I will also update the first post with this info since I also like to read how certain people sit's on the bike.

Height: 803mmSaddle setback: 80mmHandlebar drop: 130mm

But otherwise I am very happy with the look of the bike. I am surprised that frame in size 60 can look that good. As you said Trek's H1 bikes looks spectacular, but you need to handle the low headtube or size up.

I wasnt able to buy the wheels I needed since I got my girlfriend a Bianchi. It is Impulso on Athena and it ruined my wheels budget... But it is worth it and I dont really have time to race this year anyway, so wheels are not super important.

But I was able to make some changes on the bike and hopefully to make look better. I had a dilema because I need to have my cockpit match and I hate 3T stems designs and love their Rotundo bars at the same time. So I needed to find a way around this and using one of the Trek's house brand made the difference brand bearable.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HxNn8v]

I didnt weight the Bontrager XXX in 130mm, but it seems lighter than previous 3T Arx at the same size. The design of the stem is perfect and I dont understand why they dont make them anymore. I got lucky on Ebay and pulled the trigger as soon as I saw it.

The Volta is a different story. I have tried 18 saddles as of 2012 and I dont count the stock ones I got with the bike. And none of them work. The closest to usuable I was with Specialized Toupe and Selle Italia Flite, but usually the edges of the saddle are chafing my perineum and it is really painful to ride. But Volta is different, the cone shape is not causing me any chafing and it is very comfortable.

The future changes are probably white handlebar tape and finally getting the fork cut + getting the longer seatmast cap. That should make the Madone look perfect and next season maybe some nice wheels.

Again I managed to do few changes here and there. Couldn't resist the Dura-Ace crank any longer as the DA brakes on the bike were just a strange child, but with FC-9000 crankset it makes sense. Cut the fork and saved exactly 4 grams. But more importantly changed the handlebar to Fizik Superlight and the white just suits the bike better. I wish the Challenge's tan walls stay clean longer, but I would like to swap them later for Vittoria G+ as I like the color more.

Put almost 4,000 km on the bike and couldn't be happier. The geo suit's me perfectly, something I cannot say about Specialized bikes. The comfort is very good and the carbon Bontrager stem even helped with comfort in front. Emonda was probably stiffer and a touch more comfortable, but with a dead feel. Madone is more lively and bigger fun to ride.

I would like to change the pedals to PD-9000 and next year get the carbon wheels. Probably mid-profile clinchers. Was thinking about Roval CLX 40.