Thats a thought. I might or might not be able to find something like that down here. Possibly buy a cheapo toy or beach bag of some kind and salvage them, if I can find one on them. Or that extra shoulder strap they always package with duffel bags and soft hand luggage. They have snap hooks on the end, too. I'll look around.

I was also looking at a spool of 200# test monofilament I have for towing teasers. I could make a loop of that, use a crimp sleeve to close it. That might still fit around the post and let me thread the bungee through the mono loop. Probably put a piece of tubing on it so it doesn't chafe cut the bungee.

Stores are closed today, of course. So I am making a mount for a Hero HD camera that slips between the top of the mast and the sail today.

Busy hands and all that. had a great sail yesterday. Nice photos. No wind today. Gonna go motorboat for a change.

I purchased a Sprayskirt from Kayaking Bob. The spray skirt comes without any installation accessories. The web site has different recommendation on how this can be installed. I decided to use what I had in my garage instead of going out and purchasing additional material.

I threaded the sprayskirt with the parachute cord leaving ~ 4" loop at each corner. ~ 2" Heatshrink was slid over one end and then both ends were tied with a square knot. The Heatshrink was slid over the knot and shrunk to keep the knot from coming apart. The knot was slid into the AFT short section of the skirt to hide the knot.

Two plastic eyes were screwed on to the bow. The bow loop of the skit was passed through the eye (inside-out) and the entire skirt was passed through the loop. The position of the skirt was adjusted and parachute cord was sewn to the skirt to maintain the distance. ﻿

The AFT corner is attached with a combination of hook and loop. Make sure the center loop position is slightly forward of the ama crossarm. The tension keeps the loop from coming out.

The center corner is pulled out using a piece of parachute cord. Make a small loop in the end. Loop it through the center. Run the line out to the bungee peg, back to the start loop and make a sliding knot on the return string. This will allow the tension to be adjusted as the lines streches. The double wrap acts like a Spanish Tacle reducing the load on the sliding knot.

The inside edge tends to pull away from the hull. To keep it close a fiberglass rod is inserted into the inside edge of the skirt. I did not want to use use the hatch bungee as recommended on some sites to pull in the skirt. A short Bungee and a plastic hook is used. I have a welded hook but another reverse plastic hook could be used. The two hooks pull against each other.

To stowe the spray skirt disconnect the center loop. Roll skirt into it self and tuck under the hatch bungee.

Nice job! I can see with all your other mods, why you installed the Sprayskirts so differently than others. I await your report after use.

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What I've been working on for the last few months with friends, is how to make it easy to install the Sprayskirt for non-do-it-yourself users that don't want to drill holes in their new boat and ether want a semi-permanent install for not much more $'s or want to be able to attach and remove the Sprayskirt quickly without cutting wire-ties or untying lines.

Last of the materials are ordered and on the way. Then we'll see what you all think.

I just bought a new AI. Trying to keep this one as clean as I can without a lot of plastic welding or drilling. I assume she will be needing a spray skirt also. Will be installing a dodger. You are the only source for spray skirts, so I will be looking forward to what you come up with the new design...

I got frustrated trying to find materials locally ( on this little island where we live) and waited until we made a trip to the USA. That was last week. I ordered a 100 ft. spool of black 1/4" bungee and a 300 ft. spool of black paracord from Amazon, and had them shipped to my parents house in Texas. Now I got the right stuff!

Oh, I found the hooks, eyes, plastic snap hooks, etc. for the bungee off the shelf in the Kayak section at Bass Pro Shop in Houston. I bought extra so that I can be sure to have some on hand whenever those bungees that hold the ama on let go. They GOTTA let go sooner or later, as tight as they are when the amas are folded.

I am still not clear on how to attach the spray skirts to the akas, so that they work at the same time as the tramps. But this is going to be a high priority to figure out, now that we are back on de island, mon.

I am thinking of taking a soldering gun and just melting a hole in the tramps so that I can expose the hardware to attach the skirts to. Any suggestions?anyone got up the gumption to just drill a hole through the aka yet?

On all of my AI's and TI I've added extra Eyelet Post halfway down on both front aka to hold the Sprayskirt out, but I don't regularly use the Hobie Tramps. I did melt a hole in the tramps (with a soldering gun ) for the Eyelet posts to stick through when I do use them. Works fine for me.

I would recommend creating a loop of paracord to hook around the existing Eyelet Posts (where the ama bungee goes).

Here's a picture on what I'm trying for the Pre-Assembled Sprayskirt. Notice the strap pull tab and the small diameter loop so it won't come off easily by it self.

I received all my supplies and I've made one set this weekend. I will be putting together a few more this week and posting more pictures.

Thanks, guys. That all makes sense. We do use the tramps cause of the dog, unless the wind is up around 16-18 kts. and higher. Then we go without the tramps and the dog rides behind me. RIGHT behind me.

So, all the stuff inside the skirt seams is bungee, right? You only use the paracord from the corners to the eylet post and don't run paracord through the hems? that outer eyelet post is pretty well taken up with two bungees over it for the ama and the tramp, but I think there's room there for the paracord. maybe we need taller eyelet posts.

I used parachute cord for all of it. The skirt has a loop all the way around. The trick is to get just the right amount to stick out from each corner. To keep the loop from shifting I sewed the cord. See the pictures...

I don't use any bungee. The line in the picture is new, smaller cord made of polyester (best UV and low stretch). It's about 1/2 the size of paracord. I try to keep the line light, so it you hit something or otherwise over stress the Sprayskirt, I want a wire-tie or the Sprayskirt cord to break, not something on the AI/TI!

I tie knots everywhere the cord exits the shadecloth and use small wire-tie's to stretch the shadecloth to the cord in all directions.

Oh, I understand. And I am totally surprised you aren't using 1/4" bungee throughout. Is there a reason why paracord is better than bungee?

I know the mil spec paracord is 550 lb. test. Presumably that wouldn't stretch under a load of water. But bungee would be more forgiving for the entire boat I would think. Unless the weight of the water load is just too much for it.

I like my Sprayskirts tighter than bungee will allow. The poly cord I've been using, was rated at 60# working load. The new polyester cord I'm trying, is lower break strength as well as smaller diameter. A tighter Sprayskirt will hold it's shape better in strong wind and waves.

The reason it's taken me so long to come up with a pre-assembled sprayskirt is, there is so many good ways to mount them.

On the TI to not require drilling, or mounting of additional hardware, I've used the eyelet post in the center of the front mesh pockets like this:

And a small anchor shackle to hold the front without taking too much more room on the bow pad eye:

Also small loops of cord under the front hatch bungee hook to wire-tie to:

I like the idea of pulling the inside middle out bellow the hatch bungee fitting. That is much better than just using the hatch bungee. I was worried that a wave could pull the hatch bungee off the fitting, leaving the hatch unsecured. I would not want to be leaning over the bow in any kind of sea trying to secure it...