10bolt 1/2 ton to 3/4ton CONV Brake Prob

Well I did the swap and basically just pulled the calipers off and set them to the side while i installed the 3/4 ton and basically just put them on. They were kinda of forced on and kinda tight. The problem is, is I don't think they are doing anything to stop me. My brakes suck all around too. I went to see if the calipers had even knocked any of the rust of the rotor and it about burnt 5 layers of skin off. So i don't know if its just rubbing and not braking or what. My initial thinking is that the rotors width is different from a 10bolt 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton front end. Any helps, suggestions would be awesome. Thanks, Chris

I basically took the whole brake assembly off set aside and put back on..not sure what the issue is.

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I'm a little confused as to what parts you actually swapped over. If you did not swap over the 3/4 ton caliper mount brackets that could easily be your problem. You might still be able to install the caliper using the 1/2 ton brackets but the caliper would rub on the rotor and produce tons of heat which is what you seem to be explaining. Let us know what pieces you actually swapped.

I appologize for my ignorance on this. I was able to take the two hex-head bolts out of the 1/2ton pull caliper off, hang it there, install the 3/4 ton and install the two same hex head bolts right onto the new axle, the holes were already there on the axle. I didn't take anything from the 1/2 ton brake assembly and put it on the 3/4 ton. Hope this helps

So you took a 6 lug axle out and installed an 8 lug axle but re-used your existing calipers without removing the brake lines. If ths is what you did you shouldn't have any troubles unless you had some issues before or the brake rotors on the swapped in axle are too tight.

Thats exactly whats going on here. Someone I was talking to said that the calipers part numbers are different from that of a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton. How could the rotor be too tight, and if this is the case is changing the rotor the only fix. Also how tight should the two hex-nut bolts go in, from what i remember i tightened them up pretty good. Maybe i'll try loosening them up. In any event my truck takes some "all the way to the floorboard" stopping and there isn't ANYTHING instant or quick about it. I installed all the stuff in the rear, maybe it just sucks. I don't know, I figured the disc brakes in the front would have been no issue at all, but its being difficult.

Whatever you do DO NOT loosen the hex bolts. Those are what hold your caliper tight to the bracket and you don't want that coming loose. 1/2 and 3/4 ton calipers are the same, the only difference is 7/16" banjo bolt or 10mm banjo bolt. When i said the rotor might be tight i mean the wheel bearing adjustment. Double check to make sure that the bearings are all good and that the adjustment is done properly. If all this checks out then you will need to start looking at the flex brake lines and possibly bleed the system then check master cylinder if all else fails.

He is being told there are different calipers, because there are actually two different styles, depending on brake system, two different styles of pads as well..... but what you have on there, will work, they both operate the same way, just use alittle different pad design.

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