Remove the crappy lift. Get real coils and shocks. 265/75/16 is safest but you can push it to 285/75/16 if you really want to be the alpha male. 315's are not friendly to the front suspension. Tbh that thing looks like it is a deathtrap going down the road.

By looks of it, I see OME setup it quite popular. I think I may just open my wallet on it.

I figured the suspension was iffy...but meh I'll fix it.

I just ordered 315s lol so I guess I could get smaller tires instead then eventually lower it down. But if there no way to get 315s to work if I go lower with the right setup? Should I switch to 285s and then just try and lower it afterwards?

I would also like to keep the 315s of possible. I like the size of the tire. But i would like to remove as much lift as possible without having to do tubbing.

I would like to have at least 3 inch of lift. But obviously, I'd have to have a tire that can fit after I drop it. If there is no way to make a 315 work, then I guess the 285 is the widest I can go for a 3inch llift?

Edit: probably just going to call NTB today and tell them to order the 275s. I'll remove the body lift. But I'll keep the suspension lift on just to make it by for a few months. I'm only going 3-4 miles commutes on it for the next 1.5 years.

Stock "99 highlander" springs, a 1" body lift, and folding over the pinch weld in the front fenderwells is all you need to accomodate 285's. Mine has been setup this way for years.

Is there anything I can do spacer or rim wise I can do to avoid folding the pinch weld? I have slammed a couple of cars before and I've had to cut knotches out of the frame because the CV axle would hit the frame....I don't wanna mess with the frame unless it's last resort.

And just throwing this out there, I am going to be doing a 30k mile service. flushing all fluid's and changing spark plugs etc.

Fun fact for anyone replacing plugs always use ZINC anti sieze. Not graphite, or copper. Zinc. Just thought I would share that. First time I have worked on a motor with the 3 spark plug wires versus the common six. Pretty efficient I like it.

Better than the old ford/Mazda engines where the 4 cylinder engines ran off 8 spark plugs, 8 wires and 2 distributors lol

Is there anything I can do spacer or rim wise I can do to avoid folding the pinch weld? I have slammed a couple of cars before and I've had to cut knotches out of the frame because the CV axle would hit the frame....I don't wanna mess with the frame unless it's last resort.

It is a body pinch weld, no frame modifications...

If you bash it enough and re-mold the fender liner, you can't even tell you did anything there.

Screw the body lift and 315s. If you are looking for DD status then you will not achieve it with that stuff. Remove that body lift asap. I didn't even need to crawl under to see how sketch that looks. 265 all terrains. 285 if you really insist, but again you are looking for DD status. That thing has the stability of a bowling pin right now. Driven enough 4Runners like that to know how awful it really is to daily drive compared to stock.

Also, it it just me or does the rear wheel look way too far forward? 2WD control arms are shorter so I think that is the result when lifted. I would literally buy moog springs and shocks just to baseline it as a daily. There is so much sketch on this.

Screw the body lift and 315s. If you are looking for DD status then you will not achieve it with that stuff. Remove that body lift asap. I didn't even need to crawl under to see how sketch that looks. 265 all terrains. 285 if you really insist, but again you are looking for DD status. That thing has the stability of a bowling pin right now. Driven enough 4Runners like that to know how awful it really is to daily drive compared to stock.

Also, it it just me or does the rear wheel look way too far forward? 2WD control arms are shorter so I think that is the result when lifted. I would literally buy moog springs and shocks just to baseline it as a daily. There is so much sketch on this.

Yeah you are correct. But just be patient lol I am rebuilding a 302 engine. Today will be the last day before I fire it up!

But Yeah it's very lose this high up. I got it back home now with the 285/75R16s. It's going to stay in the stable for now. Going to swap alllll fluid's.

Then I'm going to get the suspension back in action 1 step at a time.

First thing is remove the spacers from ontop of the coils. But don't worry it will get back to a reliable status in time. It won't move much until I get this thing lower. But I am assuming I should not rub if I remove those spacers.

I would remove all the body lift and spacers at once if I could fit the 285s without rubbing but that's not the case from what I've researched. Maybe a few more weeks and I'll have a new kit on the way.

I DD mine on 285's and a 3 inch, no body lift. Pinch weld massage and I have no rub under normal conditions. Read THIS and THIS. I think mine probably most closely fits the Bread and Butter build. I couldn't be happier with it. Enjoy.