Man Mo is a temple dedicated to the God of Literature (Man) and the God of War (Mo). For Jeanne, Elizabeth, and me, the visit was one of fragrant if chaotic moments filled with devotees’ incense and offerings of joss paper and oranges.

Later, with Allan and Cecilia, we heard Christmas Carols and and attended Mass at Our Lady of Mt. Carmel – amazing to follow it all w/o understanding a single word, until it was time for Communion, and the choir did a completely recognizable “O, Holy Night.”

(single-click any circle –> slide show)

Soul Art Shop

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan

After Mass, we walked to and through and around and up streets and escalators for a “Shanghaiese” meal, which may have been the best yet; Allan ordered perfectly: 3 styles of noodles and Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings). It was an incredible variety of hot (spicy), sour, and sweet,and as Elizabeth later pointed out, he kindly avoided ordering things like Century Eggs

Later, we spent a couple hours on the rooftop of the Prince’s Building – this link has a few photos (my camera-phone battery being long gone). And this one of Victoria Harbor captures some of what we saw.

Melissa means “bee” in Greek, a nod to the dedication of the young women who go there every weekday for Greek, English, poetry, art, knitting…I taught English at this Greek nonprofit for part of November-December.

For too short a time, I worked with women who mostly spoke Arabic and Farsi, and who came from the shelters, camps, and squats spread across Athens. I have many photos, and when I see you in person sometime, I’d love to share. For now, here’s a lesson from the first day . Melissa students are the most eager I’ve ever known, and the administrators, teachers, and other volunteers, the most committed. Lots more to do there, lots of people doing it, and I’d love to return

I’d walk back to Elizabeth’s studio at night, grateful, tired, hungry. I often stopped for dinner in the neighborhood, Exarchia —

For me, as welcome in cool weather as in hot. Only the color of the wine changes!