will lithium grease from a tube work as well as that from a spray can? or will that be too thick? incidentally, i just took apart my regulator and no crud. no sign that grease had ever been there. i think lack of lubrication and a little rust is causing my problems.

I don't see any reason why the stuff in a tube wouldn't work just as well as the spray type, or even better. The spray grease tends to evaporate some. I used it out of convenience._________________MikeA nice pair (of '74s)Parts...

I totally knocked this job out in just a few hours thanks to this post. I had recently picked up some new/used vent windows. Mine were in pretty bad shape. So I went ahead and swapped those out too. Now my windows can be rolled up and down without destroying any more handles!

Thank you for your post. The job went well with your instructions and photos. I was wondering after I did the job if the tangs could be bent and the spiral cable taken out and greased without taking the rest of the door apart. Seems like it might fix a lot of the hard rollup problem even though its not as thourgh as your instructions. Just smokin and thinkin.

I installed a window regulator on the drivers side of my '67 last night. I didn't read any instructions... Great tutorial, only thing I have to offer is that I didn't have to completely remove the vent window. Instead I just took out the top screw and tilted it back. That gave enough clearance to get the regulator in.

Took me about an hour but my car was already missing the door panel and regulator (I have no idea why someone would remove the regulator and put the vent window back without replacing the parts) so I didn't have one to remove initially.

But how do I remove my felt channels? They're OG, and very nice, so I don't want to replace them, but I'm putting new my new window scraper and trim assemblies, and they won't go in without the felt channels being out. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

I had a hard time re-installing the window because the top of the window was encountering resistance from a horizontal crash brace member that is attached to the outer skin of the door (this brace is located inside, however). Fortunately, there is a large hole just under the lock pull for you to grab the top of the window as it hangs up on this horizontal member and force the top of window toward you, which will get the window "over the hump", so to speak.

And this is fun while trying to pull the padded bottom (you did pad it, right?) vertical end of the regulator, while pushing up on the glass, and also pulling the top of the window away from that horizontal cross brace.

Hey Mike! First of all, thanks so much for the post. I'll be tackling this on the passenger door for my project '71 Super Beetle (got it 3 weeks ago!) this weekend.

I'd like to do the same for the driver's side, but there's a problem.

7) Remove the single bolt at the very bottom that holds the regulator to the door. Depending how tight the regulator is against the glass you may choose to remove the glass next (at step 9) or remove additional bolts first (step 8 ).

My door is missing the small bracket where the regulator bolts on. The bottom of the regulator is hanging loose. I'll try and post a photo soon.

Do you (or anyone else on this thread!) know where I could get a replacement bracket? I've looked online for the past few days and have yet to find anything.