I have a 1993 buick park avenue with abs system.It all started when the brake lines rusted out, had new ones made.I had to take the abs motor off to get some fittings off,reinstalled it back on the car.When I tryed to bleed it, the system had a lot of air in the right front left rear.Kept bleeding but no luck on the air in the line issue so I started the vehicle and kept pumping until the fluid came out clear.The car stops but the brake is spongy not firm rebleed with no air in the system.Could it have damaged the pump when the lines run out of fluid.The owner said all you had to do is just touch the brake had firm pedal.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks art

the car didnt sit for a year. When I took the abs assembly out of the car the fluid was contaminated.I must have bled the thing 12 or more times it still didn't help.The pedal is not firmthe car didnt sit for a year. When I took the abs assembly out of the car the fluid was contaminated.I must have bled the thing 12 or more times it still didn't help.The pedal is not firm

It does sound like the pump is possibly bad. But, here's a really complete description that I use all the time and it can help you rule out a myriad of other issues before you go replacing parts. You could possibly still have some air trapped in the system.

Ok, you are most likely having problems due to contaminated brake fluid. Is the fluid clear, or dark? Whenever a car has the brakes changed, the fluid should be flushed out, which is accomplished by bleeding the lines. The former owner probably didn't flush out the brake fluid ever (this is a very neglected car maintenance), and letting the car sit for a year just corroded everything that's attached to the lines (calipers, brake cylinders). !st thing to do is spray all your bleeder valves w/ wd-40 or some type of penetrating oil so u can bleed the brakes. From your description, you should probably remove the calipers and brake cylinders, disassemble them, and see how corroded they are. I guarantee you'll find pitting and corrosion inside. You can attempt to rebuild them, but it's much easier (and sometimes cheaper as far as brake cylinders anyway) to buy new or rebuilt units. You will still have to bleed the system to remove the old fluid. Start at the bleeder that's the greatest distance from the master cylinder, then go to the next furthest away, to the next, then the closest bleeder. You want to bleed them until the fluid is clear for a while on each wheel. If u find corrosion in the caliper or brake cylinders, you probably will want to change the master cylinder (well u won't want to, but u should!). Sorry for the bad news, but you'll have great brakes when u r done. And by the way, I had a car many years ago that kept having problems w/ calipers and brake cylinders failing, and I finally realized far too late, that it was the fluid causing it. Fluid absorbs moisture too, and that will destroy your components, always close the brake fluid bottle very tight after use!

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Right rear first, do with engine running. LF next. left rear to right front. you may need to manually reset the proportional valve located under master cylinder. your brake lines go to this first before heading to the wheels, one side will have a rubber protector on it push it in to reset it.

Hi, it can be a sensor or the ABS unit itself, but it is not the brakes. Your brakes will function like normal brakes without ABS. If there was a problem with your brakes, the brake indicator would come on.

If you're POSITIVE you don't have any rusted brake lines, I would first bleed all the brakes to get rid of air in the lines. If not, the master cylinder cap may not be sealed correctly. They are cheap to replace and available at any auto parts store. If you still have the problem, your brake calipers could be going bad, letting air in and possibly fluid out of the piston(s) while moving. Your ABS system might be to blame (if equipped) but highly doubtful. Hope this helps.

IF YOUR ABS LIGHT IS ON YOU HAVE ABS PROBLEMS LET THE DEALERSHIP FIX IT.SOUND LIKE MASTER CYLINDER PROBLEMS.ITS CONNECT TO ABS MODULATOR.YOU NEED A TECH 2 SCANNER TO RELEASE THE TENSION MOTOR IN MODULATOR.YOU CANT FIX IT AT HOME.ITS A DEALERSHIP JOB..

Yes pi is avery serious problem. If you are unfamiliar with shaping steel lines and double-flaring steel lines, leave it to a pro. After repairs are completed, brake system will need to be bled of air . Hope this helps