Description

The route takes the beautiful arching crack just around the corner from Cornflake crack on the North Face. The arching crack ranges from 5.9 fingers at the bottom to an offwidth through the top of the arch over to the anchors. As I recall, the gear is excellent and there are plenty of stems on the lower part of the route. The crux is a strenous move or two through the offwidth ending in a lovely thin traverse to the anchors. The route continues as an aid climb for a couple of additional pitches.

Location

North Face of Looking Glass. Obvious arching crack to the right of Cornflake

Protection

Wide range of cams and passive gear. Save a #4 or #5 camalot for the crux. Fixed anchors at the top

Never saw a spot for a #4 or #5, but I would bring doubles of #1, #2, and 0.75 camalots, plus several small camming units. Not PG-13, in fact this route will take just about as much gear as you can feed it. Warning possible beta spoiler will procede!

I would say that the crux was not the offwidth undercling at the top (all though placing gear is pretty strenuous through that section) but the thin section about 1/3 of the way up the route. You will know it when you get there. It is marked by the finger section getting to thin to use (at least for bigger fingered people) and your feet slowly dwindle to smears.

It's not necessary, but you can get a big piece in the right end of the big slot if you want a more directly overhead piece during the crux. It's also a good directional for the second especially if you think they may whip on that move. That undercling always feel super slick and somewhat desperate to me. Fortunately my wife can walk the dog that pitch, so I rarely have to lead it :)

Great route, and stout for the grade. The thin fingers was the crux for me since I'm short, but that made the upper crux easier. You win some and you lose some. I didn't use any underclinging at the wide section, just some crimping and a side pull. No need for large gear, but it would be helpful for your follower.

The Seal! What a fantastic climb with perfect gear all the way through. The fixed stopper is still in place (7-20-13) before you start the wide section (crux), no need to bring a big cam or anything, just clip the fixed stopper and crank through the crux. You can bring a 1 or 0 C3 for the thin section that is bomber. Do yourself a favor and rack up for this gem! Definitely one of my favorite climbs at the glass..

Hmm, I think I might have placed that fixed stopper. One rainy day a few years ago I took a friend to LG for the first time. The rain was supposed to stop and we had hoped a breeze might dry off the Nose area, but instead it settled in. So I told her about this "great climb that always stays dry" thinking that we could do the first pitch of the Seal. Everything was fine until I got to the top crux. The rain had blown in and area near the undercling was damp. I was able to place the stopper but could get no further. Glad that it is being put to good use, especially since it sounds like it will be there for a long time.

Edit to add that if this is my stopper it is a straight-sided Chouinard (8 I think) with a strong wire and in great condition despite its age.

If you want gear other than that fixed nut (left side of the undercling slot) you can likely get a C4 #5 (new) on the right side. I had a #4 I decided I wanted to use and had to stuff it WAAAAY up in there and my partner wanted to huck it at me after he finally figured out how to wedge himself up in there to retrieve it. The nut is probably OK and certainly seems to get a lot of use but it's hard to inspect unless you really go caving and maybe bring a headlamp up in there.