tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53985688103985964402017-09-11T04:00:35.993-07:00The Corner CaseAngry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-53271154260218663182017-06-11T22:44:00.001-07:002017-08-02T21:36:15.486-07:00Pacific Rim: Nuclear Vortex TurbineThis past Halloween I really wanted to making something impressive. I still wanted to pluck something from my favorite movie, Pacific Rim, to continue my theme from last year. I already had a nice leather jacket with the Gipsy Danger logo, a kaiju kill count row, and some patches. This year I needed something better... more complicated...<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OvfLcSurRkQ/WT4KrEF9L9I/AAAAAAAAASs/TRYt47vw6OwRJjwlcu2ELw59jAtd3B5dgCLcB/s1600/20170611_201252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1204" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OvfLcSurRkQ/WT4KrEF9L9I/AAAAAAAAASs/TRYt47vw6OwRJjwlcu2ELw59jAtd3B5dgCLcB/s400/20170611_201252.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />It didn't take long for my focus to shift toward the star jaeger's eye candy, the thing that really made it visually pop - the cool Iron-Man-like chest turbine thing. Specifically, in the context of the movie, it's called a Nuclear Vortex Turbine (NVT). What it really does, and how it technically works probably isn't a good question to ask... Just know that it looks really cool. This was the perfect thing to not only make, but also make function. I needed it to spin. I needed it to glow.<br /><br />My plan was to make something I could wear on my chest that would be heavily modeled after the NVT from Gipsy Danger. I would use leather straps around my shoulders and chest to hold it in place and give it a little bit of a steampunk theme. I would put lots of LEDs inside to make the whole thing glow to give it the appearance of fire, like the movie. The turbine part would use a motor to spin slowly and give it that last bit of cool factor.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnRiOJtnDwU/WT33dSTmc4I/AAAAAAAAARM/3sVbb5wzzCgvEkRVIIWFCLrl-AwiXNYzQCLcB/s1600/Assy%252C%2BNuclear%2BVortex%2BTurbine%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1600" height="303" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnRiOJtnDwU/WT33dSTmc4I/AAAAAAAAARM/3sVbb5wzzCgvEkRVIIWFCLrl-AwiXNYzQCLcB/s400/Assy%252C%2BNuclear%2BVortex%2BTurbine%2B3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />I started by creating a CAD model of all my 'known' parts: batteries, battery holders, LEDs, motor, bearings, switches, etc. Then I played around with mounting all those things as densely as I could so I could give lots of room for the turbine. This turned out to be a little tricky since I wanted the NVT to look like it had depth. This excluded anything from being placed in or under the turbine itself because I didn't have any thickness to spare. I ended up cramming everything in a ring just outside the radius of the turbine blades, right under the blue ring. This whole design process took me about 2 weeks to finish, working on it on weekends and after work.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OjU_pdrGuQ8/WT35xI3JtFI/AAAAAAAAARU/NXe91yN6kgw1wE1cqbRAIYrdzOVckJ89QCLcB/s1600/20161024_193528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1590" data-original-width="1600" height="396" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OjU_pdrGuQ8/WT35xI3JtFI/AAAAAAAAARU/NXe91yN6kgw1wE1cqbRAIYrdzOVckJ89QCLcB/s400/20161024_193528.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Now that everything was designed it was time for printing. I had 5 custom pieces in this assembly that all needed to be 3D printed, hand cleaned for paint, tapped for screws, and then painted and sealed. The above picture is of all the parts after cleaning and halfway through tapping the screw holes.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlSogiOMECQ/WT367HsyUVI/AAAAAAAAARg/_m3WJEhLkaMqg5nC2W5LyayIVM6qleP3gCLcB/s1600/20161030_223512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1358" data-original-width="1600" height="338" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlSogiOMECQ/WT367HsyUVI/AAAAAAAAARg/_m3WJEhLkaMqg5nC2W5LyayIVM6qleP3gCLcB/s400/20161030_223512.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />I did a quick fit check with all the electrical parts before painting just to make sure they all fit. After that I covered all the surfaces with a black primer and then painted everything with metallic acrylic paint. Last, I sprayed on a satin clear coat to seal the paint.<br /><br />All the lights, like in my steampunk Nerf gun, are wide angle white LEDs. For this application I needed them to be orange. I bead blasted the outer surface of the LEDs to frost them and then used a Sharpie air brush kit to apply the orange color. This worked very well and is a nice, quick way to make any color LED that is needed.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SFhQIcros_c/WT38bIWB4RI/AAAAAAAAARs/YkBmduCAgwYHAOTLJKrTF-t-n-PUB51RgCLcB/s1600/20161105_175925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="732" data-original-width="1600" height="182" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SFhQIcros_c/WT38bIWB4RI/AAAAAAAAARs/YkBmduCAgwYHAOTLJKrTF-t-n-PUB51RgCLcB/s400/20161105_175925.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />I had recesses and pins in the printed parts to locate the battery holders, switches, and motor. The wiring took a bit of thought to route but turned out well. The LEDs are run off 2 of the N sized alkaline batteries and the motor off the 3rd. One switch activates the motor and the other the lights. Since everything was so packed together, all the parts with LEDs needed to be able to come apart. I put electrical connectors on these to allow for easy disassembly.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GvquGKgx-6k/WT39s8CufPI/AAAAAAAAAR0/eMVchTYkXEMCZnAqLS4qulTA7ke1Y61JwCLcB/s1600/20161105_175811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="1600" height="186" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GvquGKgx-6k/WT39s8CufPI/AAAAAAAAAR0/eMVchTYkXEMCZnAqLS4qulTA7ke1Y61JwCLcB/s400/20161105_175811.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The very first part to get installed is the light ring / bowl. This immediately cuts off access to the batteries, meaning everything needs to be taken apart to change them. It's a bit of a pain but necessary to get the size down. The turbine itself sits on two thin section bearings around the center hub, which also has an integrated LED. The hub, which does not spin, and the light ring screw down to the base.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oXR9FZ2H2HQ/WT3-mwu7RQI/AAAAAAAAASA/vsjRBZpB0_gT3X0TBxuM8b7b9haZeo_aQCLcB/s1600/20161105_175522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="253" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oXR9FZ2H2HQ/WT3-mwu7RQI/AAAAAAAAASA/vsjRBZpB0_gT3X0TBxuM8b7b9haZeo_aQCLcB/s400/20161105_175522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />In order to get the turbine to spin slowly, and let the motor run fast &amp; efficient, I needed a large reduction between the two. A belt drive turned out to be a nice solution because of the space limitations, easy implementation, and low noise while running. At first I made pulleys for the motor but the turbine turned too quickly. I eventually just ran the belt directly off the motor shaft. This gave me a ~90:1 reduction with an output speed of about 3 rev/s. The 'belt' I used is just a silicone o-ring. Silicone will last for a long time in applications like this: low speed &amp; low force. When not in use for long periods, I take it off the motor and leave it around the turbine just to be nice to it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fpvX-GnZcHo/WT4BCGCJyDI/AAAAAAAAASM/R0e3sTM6Aj8sW6YjCdHa_EtzeHPMp1k-gCLcB/s1600/20161105_180012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1292" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fpvX-GnZcHo/WT4BCGCJyDI/AAAAAAAAASM/R0e3sTM6Aj8sW6YjCdHa_EtzeHPMp1k-gCLcB/s400/20161105_180012.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N2VS8A5yraM/WT4BEW0r6iI/AAAAAAAAASQ/UlbYRSudlpAoV_fZzSAmZI2PjYYEVLRzACLcB/s1600/20161105_175404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1182" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N2VS8A5yraM/WT4BEW0r6iI/AAAAAAAAASQ/UlbYRSudlpAoV_fZzSAmZI2PjYYEVLRzACLcB/s400/20161105_175404.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Once everything is in place the cover can be screwed on. For a size reference: at the base the diameter is 4.75", it is 1" tall, and the opening for the turbine is 3.25". The switches for the lights and motor can be accessed from the outside and can be turned on separately. I found that the run time on the motor is about 6-7 hours and the lights will probably do about double that.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7g-RgvZoGgA/WT4F50-bdwI/AAAAAAAAASg/Bri4ywmW4iQYbxrH47OVVSoJGD5UuOA6QCLcB/s1600/20170611_154508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1279" data-original-width="1600" height="318" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7g-RgvZoGgA/WT4F50-bdwI/AAAAAAAAASg/Bri4ywmW4iQYbxrH47OVVSoJGD5UuOA6QCLcB/s400/20170611_154508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />All together, this weighs in around 200g. I had to add a 100g lead weight on my back, on the ring where all the straps come together, to prevent this from sinking down my chest over the course of wearing it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tHPXB1on4xc/WT4dnw4fIEI/AAAAAAAAAS4/UbTq6baqyjcVe0I6gbkbtBBemAQ_e6X-wCLcB/s1600/20161031_225732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1014" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tHPXB1on4xc/WT4dnw4fIEI/AAAAAAAAAS4/UbTq6baqyjcVe0I6gbkbtBBemAQ_e6X-wCLcB/s400/20161031_225732.jpg" width="252" /></a></div><br />During the day the sun will overpower the LEDs. However, once inside, outside around dusk, or in the dark, it gives off a great orange glow.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AdxWHMuAyeM/WT4drbNDAnI/AAAAAAAAAS8/RlTuZkWfzXsaiGQNMW5YhTdE6FWvCioZwCEw/s1600/20161106_173049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1103" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AdxWHMuAyeM/WT4drbNDAnI/AAAAAAAAAS8/RlTuZkWfzXsaiGQNMW5YhTdE6FWvCioZwCEw/s320/20161106_173049.jpg" width="220" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really liked this project. It was one of those ideas that developed quickly while still requiring a fair amount of work and thought to complete. In short: it was a good challenge. This coming year I hope to do something at least as challenging and intricate as this, if not more so.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">&nbsp;<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/3c95m21zi1w/default.jpg?sqp=CLDS-MkF&amp;rs=AOn4CLBT8CkMqEbxPT1KkRwC3cLloeomIg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3c95m21zi1w?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-31921876126708430462017-06-04T13:57:00.000-07:002017-06-16T22:01:33.986-07:00Steampunk'd Glowing Nerf PersuaderThis is something I've wanted to do ever since I started seeing it on the internet. It struck me as a very easy way to make a high quality steampunk gun without spending loads of time building every piece of it. Most people don't have the skills for that. For the ones that do, like myself, sometimes the time or motivation to do that level of work isn't there. <br /><br />I love Nerf <strike>guns</strike> blasters. I loved them as a kid because I could shoot them all over the house, at my brother, etc. As an adult (some people I know would disagree with using this term to describe me) and engineer, I still like them because I can shoot them all over the house. I also developed an interest in the technology Nerf has come up with over the years to expand and progress their blasters. Another aspect I enjoy is learning about how the blasters are designed &amp; assembled given that they are all injection molded. I've been involved in the design of several such parts and I always find gems hidden inside the blasters that make me think "Oh, check that out... That's really clever."<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_k2CsOFFQS8/WUS3WrwiABI/AAAAAAAAAU8/X9yJnCv0xS8OQkQ6rk-aFDN0JIwqHmkoQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170616_201047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="929" data-original-width="1600" height="231" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_k2CsOFFQS8/WUS3WrwiABI/AAAAAAAAAU8/X9yJnCv0xS8OQkQ6rk-aFDN0JIwqHmkoQCLcBGAs/s400/20170616_201047.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>This project started as part of a Halloween costume. On that note I'm going to step aside and comment on something I've learned - If you are the type of person that has trouble getting motivated to do projects, try making pieces of a Halloween costume for a couple years (add-on style). It's a great way to have a reason to do something, have a deadline, and show off your project when it's finished.<br /><br />For my costume I was going for something of a mash-up. I wanted to do a cross between Pacific Rim, Steampunk, and general military. I like aspects from each and wanted to incorporate them into a custom I could add to year-after-year. Last year I had already done up a leather jacket like the one from the start of Pacific Rim. It's from the scene when Raleigh and Yancy Becket were strolling down the hallway, like they were in Top Gun, to suit up for Gipsy Danger. This year I added to that costume by making an Iron-Man-like [Nuclear Vortex] Chest Turbine (I'll do a post on that next). I meant to also complete this steampunk'd gun but I had to put it on the back burner until now.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ce1Q_qsceUQ/WTRbHRquXwI/AAAAAAAAAN8/nXX2nKfxuushPX9C1Rg9R124H_kPa4LngCLcB/s1600/nerf%2Bpersuader.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="520" height="308" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ce1Q_qsceUQ/WTRbHRquXwI/AAAAAAAAAN8/nXX2nKfxuushPX9C1Rg9R124H_kPa4LngCLcB/s400/nerf%2Bpersuader.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />This gun started off life as a Nerf Persuader. It's from the Doomlands line which basically has the all the greeble necessary for a Steampunk gun. The first thing I did was sand down all the external text so it wouldn't show up in the final product. After that I took a dremel and added small cuts and scratches all over the gun to make it look weathered. Once I was finished with the 3D detailing, I took the gun apart so I could get at all the pieces that needed paint. I found it best to take pictures of how all the pieces went together in case I forgot later.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n8pMjxn3U9E/WTRdkBlcttI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/6SlEptK7jCEhJfzVz_92LEnhuY8mM_gqACLcB/s1600/20161018_200132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n8pMjxn3U9E/WTRdkBlcttI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/6SlEptK7jCEhJfzVz_92LEnhuY8mM_gqACLcB/s400/20161018_200132.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Once all the parts were separated I started masking all the things I didn't want to get paint on. One of the trickiest things was the clear window. I knew I wanted to add some flare to this gun so I decided to add LEDs to make it light up from the inside. I bead-blasted the interior of the window to give it a foggy look. This would obscure the interior of the gun and help the light from the LEDs spread around. I primed all the external surfaces with black Krylon paint &amp; primer. For the actual colored paint, I used metallic acrylic paint with the occasional mix from some non-metallic green, blue, brown, or gold. When finished, I hit everything up with a clear satin coat from Krylon.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qf8nnMjV0qY/WTRf12MDajI/AAAAAAAAAOk/Bphy5gZhNvkniNq1YBErxRI0p0TY_oACACLcB/s1600/20170512_104512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1261" data-original-width="1600" height="315" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qf8nnMjV0qY/WTRf12MDajI/AAAAAAAAAOk/Bphy5gZhNvkniNq1YBErxRI0p0TY_oACACLcB/s400/20170512_104512.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Naturally, I also needed a holster for the gun. You can see the paper mock-up in the above picture. To do this I just glued 4-6 pieces of paper together with spray adhesive. This makes a half-good, cheap, leather stand-in material. Once I had the design finalized I used the patterns to cut out real pieces of leather and riveted them together. All the material can be bought on Amazon, naturally, including the super easy to use 'Double Cap Rivets' from Tandy Leather.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cUtb2U09xZk/WTRhLlmlXeI/AAAAAAAAAOw/xfyCNU3UPmQDEI2T2m2IUDf_TAoyI-uQwCLcB/s1600/20170513_010822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cUtb2U09xZk/WTRhLlmlXeI/AAAAAAAAAOw/xfyCNU3UPmQDEI2T2m2IUDf_TAoyI-uQwCLcB/s400/20170513_010822.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The LEDs were (are) originally white. I needed them to be green. To do this I bead blasted the outside surface of the LEDs and then used this cool little Sharpie [marker] air brush kit to paint the outsides of the LEDs green. And that's how green LEDs are born ;)<br /><br />It took me several hours to figure out where to mount the LEDs so they would be out of the way of the gun's internals (this thing is still going to fire darts after it's done!!), and then wire them up and secure them in place. All the LEDs have a wide angle, 110<span class="_Tgc"><b>°</b></span>, emitting pattern. Even with that, and the bead-blasted window surface, they still show up a bit like point light sources. At night it's fine, but during the day it leaves a bunch to be desired. Still, after final assembly it still gave a sweet first impression..<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OM-LSJlSl1E/WTRYddhrNJI/AAAAAAAAANs/gszSWrvkkKo9avUa0qIUie3MWQzgBJJwACEw/s1600/20170514_192611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OM-LSJlSl1E/WTRYddhrNJI/AAAAAAAAANs/gszSWrvkkKo9avUa0qIUie3MWQzgBJJwACEw/s400/20170514_192611.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />And with the holster... Note the cutout to show off the awesome glow.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_v2NGMLcHU/WTRjeM17-pI/AAAAAAAAAPE/x0rodVZUSlEu5ssy8MbZtx6KIb0ovqMqgCLcB/s1600/20170514_193039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_v2NGMLcHU/WTRjeM17-pI/AAAAAAAAAPE/x0rodVZUSlEu5ssy8MbZtx6KIb0ovqMqgCLcB/s400/20170514_193039.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />All the weathering was done by using black acrylic paint toned down with water. The process I used was to take some watered-down paint, apply it to the crack or surface, and then smear it mostly away with my finger. The goal is, of course, to leave some paint on the surface but not to let it have the "brush stroke" look.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uctQ6VHH6WM/WTRleaGTqII/AAAAAAAAAPc/Sp6xsuVQdvUBVodxSu_O9Y6sMyXmcY0RQCLcB/s1600/20170514_191738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1600" height="277" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uctQ6VHH6WM/WTRleaGTqII/AAAAAAAAAPc/Sp6xsuVQdvUBVodxSu_O9Y6sMyXmcY0RQCLcB/s400/20170514_191738.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nl3k3yPl5Hg/WTRlpHm8gJI/AAAAAAAAAPg/9WNqDMgMNKwSMb6_jGnuXS4pyMGuX9wOACLcB/s1600/20170514_191750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1042" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nl3k3yPl5Hg/WTRlpHm8gJI/AAAAAAAAAPg/9WNqDMgMNKwSMb6_jGnuXS4pyMGuX9wOACLcB/s400/20170514_191750.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The batteries I used are N size alkaline cells. They are basically like half sized AAAs. I needed two of them to get to the 3V needed to run the LEDs. For the battery pack, I used a piece of brass tubing, made by K&amp;S, that fit the batteries well. I lathed down another piece of brass for the cap at the end and used a spring to make contact with the batteries. For the other end, I made a plastic cap to fit inside the tube and used a thumb screw to act as the switch to complete the circuit. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gl3haPFbRKk/WTRmrkoJSxI/AAAAAAAAAP0/9lqAH_tS9FQ5owgfgK1b6Z3xJeMqDCejwCLcB/s1600/20170514_192051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="1600" height="165" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gl3haPFbRKk/WTRmrkoJSxI/AAAAAAAAAP0/9lqAH_tS9FQ5owgfgK1b6Z3xJeMqDCejwCLcB/s400/20170514_192051.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />The holster fits the gun really well and looks great. It sits low enough so any coat I wear won't cover the gun but it's still close enough so I can reach the grip.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6NOaAM6M04/WTRnry3d9_I/AAAAAAAAAQE/vxDc9Ae0gbY_uQ9XlzioCiiy3jnN0H2VACLcB/s1600/20170514_191639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6NOaAM6M04/WTRnry3d9_I/AAAAAAAAAQE/vxDc9Ae0gbY_uQ9XlzioCiiy3jnN0H2VACLcB/s400/20170514_191639.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />I really like how this came out. I definitely want to do another one at some point. The choice of gun didn't result in a daunting project, the holster was basic but looks great, the addition of the LEDs gave it a nice differentiating feature, and it still shoots darts! <br /><br />The one thing I would say as advice when making one of these is to think about color flow. I've only done this once, and am no artist, but if you want to do this and get hung up on the color scheme then do this: Look at your gun and all the pieces &amp; areas you can paint. Group them into 3-4 categories based on if they would look good if they were the same color, and by location on the gun. Location grouping is based on if they are more internal or external. On mine, I grouped the trigger, barrels, and hammer as internal. The copper color is the base color and grouped as external. I like my base color to cover the most area but be continuous (least split up). All the browns &amp; heavily oxidized copper colors are kinda like a middle group. I would really only have 3-4 colors so as to not overkill the appearance.Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-59538323700370226152014-07-05T22:11:00.002-07:002017-04-28T21:41:59.504-07:003D Printed Mechanical PencilWhat better way is there to spend multiple consecutive weekends than sitting at your computer, redesigning a mechanism that has existed for decades, all to be able to 3D print something that can be bought at the store for less than $1? ... That's right, anything. However, when your co-worker throws down the gauntlet there is only one thing to do. Take it up. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tpGUOY4j1QA/U7irpM6IynI/AAAAAAAAAJA/eYYFxPqM8LQ/s1600/IMG_1080+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tpGUOY4j1QA/U7irpM6IynI/AAAAAAAAAJA/eYYFxPqM8LQ/s1600/IMG_1080+(Large).JPG" width="320" />&nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is how the 3D printed mechanical pencil came to be. Luckily though, it actually works pretty well and has enough style to spare.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This pencil has 4 separate parts and was printed fully assembled as shown in the image below. Its about 6" long and 1/2" in diameter at its maximum, not including the pocket clip. It takes standard 0.9mm lead and 7mm diameter erasers. Three extra pieces of lead can be stored behind the eraser. I would have liked to do a more common lead size like 0.7mm or 0.5mm but the feature sizes required to hold lead that small are very difficult to achieve even on high resolution printers. Its not impossible but I decided to focus more on getting something working than getting something that was perfect. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vn_XnXYkBAs/U7irtJAOwXI/AAAAAAAAAJs/5Sy2Rbae5Hk/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+2+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vn_XnXYkBAs/U7irtJAOwXI/AAAAAAAAAJs/5Sy2Rbae5Hk/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+2+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went though a couple prototypes where I was just modifying the standard mechanical pencil design ("hysteresis collet") for printing. It didn't take long before I accepted that the standard design is ill suited for printing - there is too much reliance on spring force and tight fitting parts. The only way I had around that obstacle was to reinvent the design for 3D printing. I came up with a couple of concepts but settled on a lead-screw design.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xNqWSHAAQvI/U7irtuVWJHI/AAAAAAAAAJg/eSKHwsMbR5M/s1600/IMG_1083+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xNqWSHAAQvI/U7irtuVWJHI/AAAAAAAAAJg/eSKHwsMbR5M/s1600/IMG_1083+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">&nbsp; </div>In this design, the lead is pushed out incrementally by rotating the back of the pencil, which rotates a screw. There are 12 detents per revolution that allow the lead to be locked in position. These detents give a nice "click" sound when the back end is rotated. Rotating it clockwise will push the lead out about 1.2mm per click. Rotating in the opposite direction will allow the lead to be pushed back into the pencil. The back end can also be popped apart from the pencil which allows the lead to be fully back driven. In this mode, the detent mechanism is declutched from the screw so that any force applied to the lead will cause it to back drive the screw and retract into the pencil.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AG77Gdr_ikk/U7irt_gy4CI/AAAAAAAAAJk/_X73wN-Ytnc/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+4+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AG77Gdr_ikk/U7irt_gy4CI/AAAAAAAAAJk/_X73wN-Ytnc/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+4+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">At the front of the pencil, 3 small fingers grab the lead and apply some friction to prevent the lead from falling out of the pencil. New lead is inserted through the tip.&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AzliTZh1HpU/U7iruNIsb8I/AAAAAAAAAJo/-03HAcshNLg/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+5+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AzliTZh1HpU/U7iruNIsb8I/AAAAAAAAAJo/-03HAcshNLg/s1600/Mechanical+Pencil%252C+3D+Printed+5+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"></div>One detail that stands out with the design, like all my printed assemblies, is that this has a lot of holes in it. It looks like Swiss cheese. This, again, is primary for cleaning out the support material. Although, I do try my best to not make all the holes look too stupid. Another side benefit of the holes, besides styling, is that they allow for viewing of the internal mechanisms. <br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I tried to retain all the core functionality of a mechanical pencil with this design. I believe I accomplished that. Moreover, it looks cool and functions well. I am glad with how this project came out. For reference, this was printed on an Objet Eden printer. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2kG2ufZl8sg/VLH8E3VF3QI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/XoTq3gzvGuc/s1600/IMG_1093%2B(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2kG2ufZl8sg/VLH8E3VF3QI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/XoTq3gzvGuc/s1600/IMG_1093%2B(Large).JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">I spent parts of the last 6 months modifying the design to work with less precise printers. The hope was to not only allow the pencil to be printed out of more common plastics, like Nylon, but also to allow it to be printed with more common and less expensive processes like SLS. I went through 5 iterations before I got a good working version printed in SLS Nylon, pictured above. After I opened up the design for purchase I started seeing, and hearing, about pencils not working for one reason or another. I found that, for some reason, there appeared to be much more variability in the production process than I originally saw during my design iterations. I saw large variations in dimensional tolerances as well as material properties. I have thoughts as to what is causing this but it is currently making the design non-producible. I'll continue to investigate different avenues to allow this design to be purchasable. Right now it is on Shapeways but not available for purchase:&nbsp;<a href="http://www.shapeways.com/model/2169745/mechanical-pencil.html?li=search-results&amp;materialId=99" target="_blank">Mechanical Pencil</a>.&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cp5aG9pOduU?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><i>Update 4/28/17:</i><br />I spend some time in June of 2016 trying to once again make this design usable with the SLS Nylon process through Shapeways. I had the thought of simply making the pencils bigger in order to decrease the impact of the dimension error when printing these parts. Although this directly countered the goal I had set of making a normal sized pencil, I was at the point where having something to produce was better than nothing at all.<br /><br />I decided to increased the dimensional size by 30% and 50%, about the radius only, and increased the size of the lead to 1.3mm. This accomplished my goals while still allowing me to get the pencils in a variety of colors. I was very prepared for the pencils to look huge and stupid, but to my amazement, they looked pretty cool. Despite the size increase, they had a somewhat fun and comical appearance. This was even true for the 50% scaled version - I had honestly thought this would be too big. I was so surprised that I thought of making a +75% scale or 2x scale version. Below, the orange pencil is the normal size, the red is the +30% scale, and the green is the +50% scale version.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BwcgLGkDWds/WQQYjDRq_DI/AAAAAAAAALA/_TTQ-sQ8BkkbcGlHDPRrQ5NrtedvMKI1ACLcB/s1600/20160612_091532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BwcgLGkDWds/WQQYjDRq_DI/AAAAAAAAALA/_TTQ-sQ8BkkbcGlHDPRrQ5NrtedvMKI1ACLcB/s320/20160612_091532.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><br />There were, of course, some small tweaks I had to do to the design due to the size increase, but nothing major. The only issue, however, that was a show stopper was that the lead could not be pushed back into the pencil. This was because the pencil got so big that the friction in the mechanism was too great. This was very disappointing to me because I always felt this feature was very cool. I haven't yet decided what to do about about this as my time and motivation to work on this has been sporadic. I might be able to find a solution or I may have to scrap the design and start over and do something simpler. More to come...</div>Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-47740661693299435012014-03-23T21:24:00.002-07:002017-06-12T21:49:59.745-07:003D Printed Tape MeasureGoing off the success of my 3D printed dial calipers, I decided to try to print something even more elaborate. But what to print? I contemplated several options but ultimately decided to print a tape measure.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6iJyXKTB9Pc/Uy-wXBle8gI/AAAAAAAAAF8/M8iQgSkRXHU/s1600/IMG_1064+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6iJyXKTB9Pc/Uy-wXBle8gI/AAAAAAAAAF8/M8iQgSkRXHU/s1600/IMG_1064+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Originally I didn't think a tape measure would be that interesting... I mean, it doesn't even have gears. Once I started piecing it together in my mind and determining the acceptable "cool factor", I realized that the parts count alone was skyrocketing. My calipers had 9 pieces, this tape measure would have well over 100... Now things were getting interesting.<br /><br />I decided to attempt this based on the parts count and the fact that, if successful, I would be able pull out over 4ft of tape from something about 3" sq. Also, I had no better ideas at the time.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3sm0dQCJKM/Uy-wYUUFd9I/AAAAAAAAAGQ/L0vBYFhpNrU/s1600/Tape+Measure+3-2-14%252C+1+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3sm0dQCJKM/Uy-wYUUFd9I/AAAAAAAAAGQ/L0vBYFhpNrU/s1600/Tape+Measure+3-2-14%252C+1+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />I designed the tricky parts first, then I printed little test pieces here and there to validate the design before integrating them together. Right around the time I starting adding all the cutouts in the main body (for cleaning purposes), it started to look pretty cool.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj37mFkvbMs/Uy-yZ3ODQTI/AAAAAAAAAGk/VKJIeyoMESU/s1600/IMG_0003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj37mFkvbMs/Uy-yZ3ODQTI/AAAAAAAAAGk/VKJIeyoMESU/s1600/IMG_0003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />The entire tape measure would be printed already assembled, wound up (pictured above), with support material. The support material is necessary to <i>support</i> all the complex geometry and separate pieces. Support material will be in every void not already occupied with the printing plastic (UV hardened resin, actually). This support material needs to be cleaned out after printing, which is what all the cutouts are for. For me, not being artistic in any way, adding lots and lots of cutouts in a way that didn't look stupid was the hardest part of the design.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TE1Jcjdm1QQ/Uy-wXEZZu2I/AAAAAAAAAGI/WS1dloDfDIk/s1600/IMG_1067+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TE1Jcjdm1QQ/Uy-wXEZZu2I/AAAAAAAAAGI/WS1dloDfDIk/s1600/IMG_1067+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Now for some tech specs! There are 114 parts in this tape measure, 52" of tape links labeled every 1" with graduations down to 1/8", a lock for the tape, a belt clip, and a fold-out crank with free-spinning handle to reel the tape back in. Measurement accuracy over the 52" is about 1/16". The belt clip, lock, and crank all have flexible features on which stress analysis was performed to be sure they wouldn't break. The printed material is fairly brittle which means if it breaks it does so like glass. Unless the stresses in the material are low and are distributed properly it will break.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jxY5HPAfFtU/Uy-wYZhk8GI/AAAAAAAAAGY/l-5GEmXntrY/s1600/Tape+Measure+3-2-14%252C+3+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jxY5HPAfFtU/Uy-wYZhk8GI/AAAAAAAAAGY/l-5GEmXntrY/s1600/Tape+Measure+3-2-14%252C+3+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />The crank has an over center cam-like feature and hard snaps in both the open and closed positions to make it bias towards those. The tape lock knob has a detent (visible on the backside) to make it lock in the unlocked position so it doesn't rattle around and lock up the tape when not in use. <br /><br />I would really have liked to print a one-piece flexible tape or even a spring retractable tape but due to limitations in printing technology and material I couldn't do that. I was also resistant to turning this into a giant research project. Springs are one of the things that are difficult to print, especially in a brittle material. Springs with a preload are, as far as I know, impossible to print.<br /><br />In this case, if I were to print a retraction spring, it would have to be a very large spring that would have to work over 10+ rotations and not be susceptible to material creep. Not to mention it would have to provide enough force over those 10+ rotations to reel the tape back in. That is not an easy problem to solve. <br /><br />The tape itself can also be considered a spring; assuming it's the same curved cross-section profile as a normal steel tape. If the tape was printed outside of the tape measure body, out of a flexible material, and that material wasn't very creep sensitive it would be possible to print a one-piece tape that was rigid when extended outside the tape measure body. The printer required to do this would have to be very large since the tape would have to be fully extended during printing.<br /><br />The other, simpler, option is to just print a simple ribbon of tape out of a flexible material. Since the tape would be flexible it could be printed as one piece coiled up inside the tape measure body. The downside to this method is that it requires the use of 3 different materials during printing: rigid modeling material, flexible modeling material, and support material. There are only a couple printers in the world that can currently do this. Moreover, my preference is to keep my designs uni-material (not including support material) so they can be printed on a wider range of printers.&nbsp; <br /><br />All that being said, I still think it would be cool to further investigate some kind of spring retraction option.<br /><br />For the curious, this tape measure was printed on an Objet Eden 3D printer.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ltds2L-TIDc/Uy-wW6E5wnI/AAAAAAAAAGM/pW4yXebpApQ/s1600/IMG_1061+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ltds2L-TIDc/Uy-wW6E5wnI/AAAAAAAAAGM/pW4yXebpApQ/s1600/IMG_1061+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bYWl0Nf34I/Uy-wYMDg5bI/AAAAAAAAAGc/NWkzE0eBU1c/s1600/IMG_1069+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bYWl0Nf34I/Uy-wYMDg5bI/AAAAAAAAAGc/NWkzE0eBU1c/s1600/IMG_1069+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />And lastly: Yes. This is in Imperial units. Why? Because this is America. We are simultaneously innovative and stubborn. Mostly though, it's what I am used to. Although on the small scales, I greatly prefer SI units. ... Ok, I just looked up Imperial units and came across some of the lesser known ones... All I can say is wow...<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/m1z5zAEpUIw?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-4276248628234526012014-03-23T19:34:00.000-07:002014-08-26T23:11:55.441-07:003D Printed Dial Calipers3D printing initially interested me because of its ability to create physical parts very quickly with nearly any geometry. By the time I had access to a 3D printer the ability to print virtually any shape had already been well proven and had even become common place. I was then introduced to the idea that multiple parts could be printed together, assembled, and captured. This may seem like a new concept but it is merely a new way of looking at 3D printing. The printer doesn't care how many pieces its printing, or even if they are connected. <br /><br />I had seen adjustable wrenches printed already assembled. In the same fashion, I designed a c-clamp to try my hand at this concept. The camp worked perfectly. So then the question became "What's next?"<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YgjKtBjrHIU/Uy-YoGiuk6I/AAAAAAAAAFg/66lYyloaFGs/s1600/IMG_1052+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YgjKtBjrHIU/Uy-YoGiuk6I/AAAAAAAAAFg/66lYyloaFGs/s1600/IMG_1052+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />Dial Calipers. Yes. That sounded more than complicated enough with its gears, dials, and half dozen moving parts. I guess the irony of 3D printing a precision measurement tool with, what is normally considered, an imprecise manufacturing method was just too good to resist. But just to clear, 3D printing accuracy can range from +/-0.001" to +/-0.015 or more depending on the printer. Its typically not as bad as most people think... But it can be.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yHafTpRDbeI/UzdfiNC6bRI/AAAAAAAAAH0/iuLgjYvEUuU/s1600/Assy%252C+caliper+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yHafTpRDbeI/UzdfiNC6bRI/AAAAAAAAAH0/iuLgjYvEUuU/s1600/Assy%252C+caliper+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="247" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>This dial caliper was designed to open to 4" with 9 different moving pieces that would all be printed together, already assembled. It would have a working thumb wheel, inside/outside jaws and a depth gauge. I also included a cam lock for the dial so the 'zero' position could be adjusted. Since this would be 3D printed I didn't see any reason to put the graduations below 0.005". In hindsight, graduations down to 0.0025" wouldn't have been completely pointless. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fn-iUj0DsCA/Uzdfib6cVdI/AAAAAAAAAHw/UZ5cEGzpCFA/s1600/IMG_6387+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fn-iUj0DsCA/Uzdfib6cVdI/AAAAAAAAAHw/UZ5cEGzpCFA/s1600/IMG_6387+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />While cleaning away the support material I had my doubts as to if this would even work. It took a bit of work to free up all the various moving pieces but they all came free.<br /><br />Fresh from cleaning, I went to show the calipers to one of my friends. He looked at me with half confusion and half pity with a look that said "...why did you do this?.." Then we had a little conversion about how the calipers would be horrifically inaccurate which ended with him handing me a random piece of steel rod stock he had been machining. He asked me to measure it. I zeroed the calipers, measured the diameter, and read off the number: 1.997". He then measured it with a proper set of Starrett digital calipers: 1.9975". He just looked at me and said "How did you do that?" Admittedly, I was a bit lucky there. Further testing showed accuracies in the +/-0.0025" were more common. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B2POhJPBOV8/UzdfiVuZR3I/AAAAAAAAAH4/I57tXMnOAx8/s1600/IMG_1056+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B2POhJPBOV8/UzdfiVuZR3I/AAAAAAAAAH4/I57tXMnOAx8/s1600/IMG_1056+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />I want to be clear that this is just a proof of concept and is not in anyway intended as some functional production model. There are gaps between all the moving parts on the order of 0.01". The dial has 0.05" of backlash due to slop in the gear train. The <i>plastic</i> (actually, resin) that its printed out of is wildly temperature sensitive.<br /><br />Accepting these facts, its a pretty cool device. Everything works as intended, its no bigger than normal calipers, and it looks cool. Every time I see this I'm reminded how steampunk it looks. Maybe someday I'll make a version out of stainless steel and brass.<br /><br />STL files on&nbsp;<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:187267" target="_blank">Thingiverse</a>. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/QP7harBuc-Q?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-33729717429204165392014-03-23T19:27:00.002-07:002014-08-26T23:12:34.094-07:00Telepresence RobotOne night I was watching an episode of The Big Bang Theory where Sheldon made a telepresence robot to avoid physical interaction with people. As I watched that scene I thought to myself "I could do that." So I did.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwkPR3gsfDw/Uy-YERVSjoI/AAAAAAAAAFA/-URbiV6yR0c/s1600/IMG_0901+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwkPR3gsfDw/Uy-YERVSjoI/AAAAAAAAAFA/-URbiV6yR0c/s1600/IMG_0901+(Large).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><br />My main motivation in building this was to use it to telepresence with my family back in the north east. I figured this would be a lot more fun and interesting than just the usual Skype session.&nbsp; <br /><br />The design is pretty simple: a motorized base with a laptop up top and a webcam. The base has two geared brushed motors which are controlled by the laptop via USB. I used a Maestro from <a href="https://www.pololu.com/" target="_blank">https://www.pololu.com/</a> which lets you control standard r/c equipment from a PC. I then wrote a little C# windows app which connects to the Maestro and then could control the motors. This app also could connect to another instance of itself over the internet in either a master or slave mode which would allow external control.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOADtnruiZE/UzdX0uG8C-I/AAAAAAAAAHM/1K_2dOskMyg/s1600/IMG_0877+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOADtnruiZE/UzdX0uG8C-I/AAAAAAAAAHM/1K_2dOskMyg/s1600/IMG_0877+(Large).JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />The webcam was mounted on a simple gimbal which allowed pan/tilt control for general looking around. All the video and audio communications were done through Skype.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IT_nMzbrKos/UzdYWT9WYtI/AAAAAAAAAHU/Ysxse3UeLhM/s1600/IMG_0881+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IT_nMzbrKos/UzdYWT9WYtI/AAAAAAAAAHU/Ysxse3UeLhM/s1600/IMG_0881+(Large).JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />The coolest part of this project was getting to play with the robot controls and creating new operating modes, different controls methods for user interaction and etc. Piloting a robot from 3000 miles away was also pretty cool, although internet latency really sucks.<br /><br />I almost put a pair of nerf guns on this to add a little more fun to the mix. If I ever do another telepresence robot I'll have to add some offensive capability to it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/j2ZFNym9eoU?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-28130398580370839432014-03-23T19:25:00.000-07:002017-06-12T20:59:20.997-07:004ch Plane with Retactable Landing GearThis is the most mechanically complicated plane I've ever built. It has a wing span of 9.5", weighs 4.25g, has full flying rudder and elevator, and retractable landing gear.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r_ksopMVofY/Uy-XSy94pHI/AAAAAAAAAEw/Lb1iwD15caI/s1600/IMG_0792+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r_ksopMVofY/Uy-XSy94pHI/AAAAAAAAAEw/Lb1iwD15caI/s1600/IMG_0792+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Flight times on this airplane are in the 7-10 minute range with a 30mAh single cell lithium polymer battery. The frame is all made from carbon fiber rod or tube in the 0.5mm - 1.5mm range. The covering is OS film and is 0.5-1 micron thick.<br /><br />The propulsion system uses a 4mm 10ohm motor, geared down 6:1, driving a 3.25" carbon fiber propeller. The servos that drive the rudder and elevator are each 400mg and are my own custom design. Oh, and the tail wheel is steerable.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tgk4LKusf4/UzuY4zDb7mI/AAAAAAAAAIs/esWea3jZBaA/s1600/IMG_0819+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tgk4LKusf4/UzuY4zDb7mI/AAAAAAAAAIs/esWea3jZBaA/s1600/IMG_0819+(Large).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Ground handling on this plane is amazing and arguably the most fly part of not-flying it. Landing gear is very very uncommon on micro planes. So, being able to do things like take offs, landings, and touch &amp; goes just makes this plane very cool. When it does get in the air it flies very slow. Although, it has enough thrust to get going pretty fast or climb in altitude. The thrust-to-weight ratio is over 75% as I recall. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NCNf9QSOrGA/UzdNY7RNbPI/AAAAAAAAAG4/Qwt4wLM_xnc/s1600/IMG_0813+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NCNf9QSOrGA/UzdNY7RNbPI/AAAAAAAAAG4/Qwt4wLM_xnc/s1600/IMG_0813+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />The landing gear retract mechanism also uses a custom servo of my own design. It is designed to retract the landing gear parallel to the fuselage and deploy them at an angle. The entire mechanism as show below weighs around 0.25g. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0cd2cMYY/UzdOBK4OkSI/AAAAAAAAAG8/OTGXVmFeV0k/s1600/IMG_0769+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0cd2cMYY/UzdOBK4OkSI/AAAAAAAAAG8/OTGXVmFeV0k/s1600/IMG_0769+(Large).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>Here is a video showing a close up of the airplane with all the moving bits in action. The next video shows it in flight.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/j9MeY7yH90k?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/sUfeEWhFD84?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-3696175850367226192014-03-23T19:18:00.000-07:002014-08-26T23:13:16.865-07:00Micro ServosWhen I started to take a break from microscopic flying vehicles in 2010 and migrate towards some larger, easier to work with, models (5-20g) I realized that magnetic actuators just weren't going to cut it for control (rudder, elevator, ailerons). Magnetic actuators are heavy and draw power continuously when deflected away from neutral. I needed servos. Servos would provide lots of pulling force for their weight but at the cost of mechanical complexity. Since servos at the weight I needed didn't exist or were out of my price range I decided to further over complicate the situation and build my own. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z1Hyjz_HTMc/Uy-VNHIrNpI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/bs0vt1F6pQ0/s1600/IMG_0737+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z1Hyjz_HTMc/Uy-VNHIrNpI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/bs0vt1F6pQ0/s1600/IMG_0737+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />I started by designing a simple linear servo (lead screw design). The picture above is of my 400mg variant which has a throw of about 0.2", resolution of 0.0015", and can pull about a 25g load. The motor is a brushed 3.2mm diameter coreless design by Shicoh. The gears used are module 0.15 and can be gotten from <a href="http://www.kkpmo.com/" target="_blank">http://www.kkpmo.com/</a>. The threaded rod is 0000-160, which means it has 160 threads per inch (TPI). Threaded rods in this size (and 120, 90, etc TPI) can be purchased in 1ft lengths from <a href="http://www.jimorrisco.com/" target="_blank">http://www.jimorrisco.com/</a>.<br /><br />All the control software is done on a PIC microprocessor and the feedback is done magnetically with a hall effect sensor. Here is a video of my first version which is a little heavier and has a bit longer throw; 450mg and 3/8" respectively.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/kYRvCHgVp80?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br />Naturally, once I had this servo design done and working I had to see if I could make a smaller and lighter one. After some thought I figured that if I took apart the 3.2mm motor, threw away the case, and rebuild it as a stepper motor I could cut the servo weight almost in half. I also compacted the design to further reduce the weight. Here you can see all the parts for the servo nicely arranged on a penny. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tbYiM_pWW9Y/Uy-VP04UnkI/AAAAAAAAAEc/cyLXSwHvvqc/s1600/IMG_0955+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tbYiM_pWW9Y/Uy-VP04UnkI/AAAAAAAAAEc/cyLXSwHvvqc/s1600/IMG_0955+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />This servo functions very similarly to the large one described above. The only difference is that I wired the brushed motor as a stepper motor by soldering directly to the 5 contacts on the motor's commutator. This allowed me to get rid of the steel case and use the commutator as the main structural component (backbone) of the servo.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lpAaChi7j0/Uy-VP7OQyAI/AAAAAAAAAEg/b_utraqUtVo/s1600/IMG_0979+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lpAaChi7j0/Uy-VP7OQyAI/AAAAAAAAAEg/b_utraqUtVo/s1600/IMG_0979+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />This servo weighs just 190mg, has a throw of 1/8", and a resolution of 0.003". It can pull with a force of about 4g. Overall length is about 3/8". Here is a video of it in action:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/GgWKlj5XLxk?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br />These two servos can run at voltages between 3-5v and are controlled with a 1-2ms pulse as is standard for all hobby r/c servos. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-91163578928321171492014-03-23T19:17:00.000-07:002014-08-26T23:14:13.970-07:00Sub Gram OrnithopterI can't help myself. Every time I build something I invariably think of ways I can build it smaller. I built a large ornithopter, now I have to build a small one.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CuO9eGo6xa0/Uzd1Io0KigI/AAAAAAAAAIg/Sp9rxjx9xBU/s1600/IMG_9947+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CuO9eGo6xa0/Uzd1Io0KigI/AAAAAAAAAIg/Sp9rxjx9xBU/s1600/IMG_9947+%2528Large%2529.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />This ornithopter comes in at 920mg, just under 1g, and has a 2.5" wing span. It has 4 flapping wings. The two wings on each side flap towards each other and then away from each other. This produces both thrust and lift.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-somIIFAgQGM/Uzd1HRzwq2I/AAAAAAAAAIY/fMBzdvwJkok/s1600/IMG_9938+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-somIIFAgQGM/Uzd1HRzwq2I/AAAAAAAAAIY/fMBzdvwJkok/s1600/IMG_9938+%2528Large%2529.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />It is powered by a 8.5mAh single cell lithium polymer battery. Flight times are around 3 minutes per charge. Controls are done through an infrared receiver system which can command the throttle and rudder. The rudder is actuated with a small magnetic actuator. <br /><br />The motor is a single phase brushless design that is geared 10:1 to flap the wings. The frame is all carbon fiber rod between 0.01" (0.25mm) to 0.02" (0.5mm) in diameter. The covering on the tail is OS Film while the cover on the wings is some thin grocery bag plastic film. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jVBjK-FQggM/Uzd1HQq6U7I/AAAAAAAAAIQ/SzrZJVtMvfM/s1600/IMG_9945+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jVBjK-FQggM/Uzd1HQq6U7I/AAAAAAAAAIQ/SzrZJVtMvfM/s1600/IMG_9945+%2528Large%2529.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />This is very weird to watch fly. The wings are a blur and the whole vehicle looks like its being propelled by a large dust ball. It flies quite slow and looks very much like a large insect. I wouldn't dare fly this outside.. I'm positive a bird would make a meal out of it.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='480' height='320' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/zXT0k6lZFPI?feature=player_embedded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-68688700140184294392014-03-23T18:56:00.001-07:002017-06-12T21:17:35.062-07:00VTOL OrnithopterNow this is a bit of a terminology cluster... VTOL stands for Vertical Take Off and Landing; and an Ornithopter is any flapping winged thing that flies (aka, birds &amp; insects).<br /><br />This hot number was pieced together from an Air Hogs Avenger back in October of '08. The Air Hogs Avenger was a nice little 4-winged ornithopter with a little too much thrust-to-weight to remain unmodified. I gutted the system and used the wings, gearbox, and motor to make my own, cooler, ornithopter.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f2utIq2fJb0/Uy-DsZsmW9I/AAAAAAAAAD8/fKhEg9PX-RQ/s1600/IMG_9651+(Large).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f2utIq2fJb0/Uy-DsZsmW9I/AAAAAAAAAD8/fKhEg9PX-RQ/s1600/IMG_9651+(Large).JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />I made the airframe out of carbon rod and added elevator control. I also had to replace the radio system to support throttle/rudder/elevator control. Total weight, with battery, is 10.5g and the flight times are over 10 minutes.<br /><br />This vehicle has the ability to take off and land on its tail, almost hover in place, cruise in level flight, and do loops. It is very responsive and aerodynamically quirky (not in a bad way). Flight stability is great, it can be flown with only rudder control by a novice or flown mildly acrobatically by someone with a bit more skill. Its a really great, weird, vehicle that I have been flying since I built it. I really enjoy cruising this around.<br /><br />The elevator and rudder control were originally done with magnetic rotary actuators but I have since replaced them each with 400mg linear servos of my own design.&nbsp;<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/765TlYShheU/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/765TlYShheU?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-36590563726283750112014-03-23T17:43:00.000-07:002017-06-12T21:27:14.673-07:00390mg Plane - My Lighest Plane & Unoffical Record HolderTo date, this is the lightest plane I've ever built. It held the unofficial record of the world's lightest plane for about 4 months back in July of '08 until it was bested by one weighing 225mg. To date, I don't believe any lighter ones have been made.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-teFeJLhZ4NA/Uy96ZEAxU8I/AAAAAAAAADg/-Ub2LboVIE4/s1600/IMG_9016+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-teFeJLhZ4NA/Uy96ZEAxU8I/AAAAAAAAADg/-Ub2LboVIE4/s1600/IMG_9016+(Large).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />This plane is my crown jewel of micro plane accomplishments... Despite the mountain of headaches it took to build. It has a 3.1" wing span, a 1" chord, and is 3.5" long. Flight times were surprisingly high, around 4-5 minutes, considering the size of the motor. An infrared transmitter/receiver system was used to control the throttle and rudder. The rudder control is done though an electromagnetic actuator. <br /><br />The frame is made of carbon fiber rods ranging in size from 0.01" (0.25mm) to 0.005" in diameter. All the rods less than 0.01" diameter were hand sanded down to size. The covering on all the surfaces is OS film (DuPont). <br /><br />All the electronics in the IR receiver - microprocessor, FET, and IR detector - were sanded down to reduce weight. The aluminum that encases the 8.5mAh lithium polymer battery was trimmed away to get the battery weight lower. Even then, the battery weight was 75% of the plane's weight.<br /><br />The motor and propeller were custom designed &amp; built to power this plane. The motor is a single phase brushless design swinging a 0.6" prop. A video of it can he seen <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm0h2Qf3upQ" target="_blank">here</a>.<br /><br /><b>Weight Breakdown:</b> <br />Airframe + Act: 37mg<br />8.5mAh Li-Po + On/Off Switch: 290mg<br />IR RX: 25mg<br />BL Motor: 30mg<br />Prop: 5mg<br />Landing skids: 3mg<br /><br /><b>All up Weight:</b> 390mg<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_JlLmHVNhTM/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_JlLmHVNhTM?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br /><br />Original Post: <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892415" target="_blank">390mg Plane on RcGroups</a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Twoq5gNtTXg/Uy96YxrODrI/AAAAAAAAADs/oCNSYemaLfE/s1600/IMG_8997+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Twoq5gNtTXg/Uy96YxrODrI/AAAAAAAAADs/oCNSYemaLfE/s1600/IMG_8997+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" />&nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FyLHgIntAAw/Uy96Y3QW0xI/AAAAAAAAADw/vzAW2JUbriY/s1600/IMG_9011+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FyLHgIntAAw/Uy96Y3QW0xI/AAAAAAAAADw/vzAW2JUbriY/s1600/IMG_9011+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-10271862802334004772014-03-23T17:08:00.002-07:002017-06-12T21:30:30.441-07:00560mg Plane - Unoffical Record HolderDuring the time when I was really into building these small planes ('06 - '10) there was a little unofficial competition of sorts going on between the 5 or so people in the world that were building planes this light. Contrary to what one might think, building a small plane isn't as hard as building a light plane. So, there was always a little friendly competition to see who could build a lighter plane. This plane, for about 3 months back in November of '07, had that record. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xaQW2tucLng/Uy9z-apidPI/AAAAAAAAADA/8-f51KHl-mo/s1600/IMG_0640+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xaQW2tucLng/Uy9z-apidPI/AAAAAAAAADA/8-f51KHl-mo/s1600/IMG_0640+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvqdvd5P6PA/Uy9z-jE3j6I/AAAAAAAAAC8/WEsvgWdXhKc/s1600/IMG_0643+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>The wing span on this plane was 2.75", the chord 7/8", and the length was about 3.25". The air frame is all balsa with OS film covering. Flight times were about 4 minutes per charge. The controls were done through an infrared receiver which controlled the throttle and rudder.<br /><br />Planes this light become a lesson in frustration. For example, all the "large" components of the receiver (microprocessor, IR detector) were sanded down to the copper die to reduce weight. The 3.2mm diameter brushed motor was completely disassembled and rebuild without the steel can to save even more weight (and thus killing motor efficiency). Propeller design becomes very critical at this point because there isn't a lot of motor power to work with at this point. <br /><br /><u><b>Specs:</b></u><br />WS: 2.75"<br />Actuator: 3mm ID, 160ohms<br />Motor: Lightened 3.2mm Shicoh<br /><br /><u><b>Component Weights</b></u><br />Airframe + Actuator: 45mg<br />IR RX: 50mg<br />Lightened 3.2mm Motor: 130mg<br />Prop: 20mg<br />8.5mAh Li-Po: 295mg<br />Misc: 20mg<br /><br /><b>Total:</b> 560mg<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnNWz7amCwE/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wnNWz7amCwE?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br /><br />Original Post: <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766951" target="_blank">560mg Plane @ RcGroups</a><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-imFUhbW0o1s/Uy9z-jMyRVI/AAAAAAAAADE/2bYpK8JVzNM/s1600/IMG_0636+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-imFUhbW0o1s/Uy9z-jMyRVI/AAAAAAAAADE/2bYpK8JVzNM/s1600/IMG_0636+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RleNNYuAiIY/Uy9z_YTHUCI/AAAAAAAAADQ/dk2WKg_TGEo/s1600/IMG_0650+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RleNNYuAiIY/Uy9z_YTHUCI/AAAAAAAAADQ/dk2WKg_TGEo/s1600/IMG_0650+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RleNNYuAiIY/Uy9z_YTHUCI/AAAAAAAAADM/8xWtJh3FJB0/s1600/IMG_0650+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-59006374011312932732014-03-23T16:42:00.002-07:002017-06-12T21:34:10.238-07:00840mg BiplaneI built this back in May of '07. With this plane I wanted to focus primarily on small size. I was still going for something lighter than my previous plane but I wanted to make an airplane that even I thought was small - a tall order considering I had been building micro r/c planes for year or two at this point.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rGkUEjO6UMw/Uy9tBO9WSUI/AAAAAAAAACc/0vah-YWoxAA/s1600/IMG_0220+(Large).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rGkUEjO6UMw/Uy9tBO9WSUI/AAAAAAAAACc/0vah-YWoxAA/s1600/IMG_0220+(Large).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />I chose a biplane design for this plane because it would allow me to keep a high wing area but keep the wing span small. The wing span on this plane is 2.75", the chord is 7/8", and the length is 3.75". The frame is all made of balsa wood and covered with OS film. Flight times were in the 4-5 minute range per charge. <br /><br />It is powered by a 3.2mm diameter brushed motor and a 1" propeller. The infrared receiver is capable of controlling the throttle and the rudder with a 7 step proportional control. The rudder is driven with a small electromagnetic actuator. The power source was a single cell 10mAh lithium polymer battery which can be recharged.<br /><br /><u><b>Weight Breakdown:</b></u><br />Airframe + Actuator: 75mg<br />IR Receiver: 65mg<br />3.2mm Motor: 275mg<br />Prop: 10mg<br />10mah Li-Po Cell: 395mg<br />Misc: 20mg<br /><br /><b>Total:</b> 840mg<br /><br />About a year or so after I built this I replaced the balsa paddle prop with a slick carbon fiber one that one of my friends designed. Not only did that prop increase the flight time but it made the plane basically silent. When it got within 5-10 feet of you it sounded like a mosquito about 1ft from your ear.<br /><br />Original Post:&nbsp;<a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=687151" target="_blank">840mg Biplane @ RcGroups</a> <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bzb-BNRsU4c/Uy9tA1XkeLI/AAAAAAAAACY/1Z9OTVIRq9Y/s1600/IMG_0218+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bzb-BNRsU4c/Uy9tA1XkeLI/AAAAAAAAACY/1Z9OTVIRq9Y/s1600/IMG_0218+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tpOpaM6bN_Y/Uy9tAfvlzLI/AAAAAAAAACU/jA4nzjY-PU0/s1600/IMG_0212+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tpOpaM6bN_Y/Uy9tAfvlzLI/AAAAAAAAACU/jA4nzjY-PU0/s1600/IMG_0212+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398568810398596440.post-50078657783634513552014-03-23T15:42:00.000-07:002014-04-01T21:44:03.666-07:00My First Sub 1g Airplane - 0.98g<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5398568810398596440" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>To start off my blog I would like to start by going over my first chain of wildly ambitious engineering projects - micro r/c planes...<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qW84Mk1Nyqg/Uy9i7dnA1OI/AAAAAAAAABU/brQEVzkU6gY/s1600/100_6593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qW84Mk1Nyqg/Uy9i7dnA1OI/AAAAAAAAABU/brQEVzkU6gY/s1600/100_6593.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br />This was the first r/c plane that I built that weighed in at under 1 gram. I built this back in April of '07. It has a 5" wing span, 2" chord, and its about 6" long. The flight times were in the 4-5 minute range on a full charge. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5398568810398596440" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>It was constructed of carbon fiber rod from 0.5mm to 0.25mm in diameter. The covering on the surfaces is called OS film and is made by DuPont. It is on the order of 1 to 0.5 microns thick.<br /><br />The electronics consisted of a 10mAh Lithium Polymer battery (1S), a 3.2mm diameter brushed motor driving a 1" diameter propeller, an electromagnetic actuator to control the rudder, and an infrared receiver which was capable of throttle and rudder control. Here is a full breakdown of component weights:<br /><br /><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5398568810398596440" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><b><u>Weight Breakdown:</u></b><br />Airframe + Actuator: 150mg<br />10mah Li-Poly Battery: 400mg<br />IR RX: 120mg (76mg sensor, 44 mg receiver)<br />Stock 3.2mm Motor: 270mg<br />Prop: 10mg<br />Glue + Wires + Misc: 30mg<br /><br /><b>Total Weight:</b> 0.98g<br /><br /><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went on to make some power plant improvements to this plane later on. I replaced the battery with a lighter variant and replace the brushed motor with higher power direct-drive and geared brushless versions. This brought the weight down, increased flight time, and increased the power:weight ratio. I also replaced the IR RX with a newer, smaller, lighter version. All this brought the weight down to 670mg. The wing loading was low enough where I could fly over my head and the plane would gain altitude due to the heated air rising from around my body.&nbsp;</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5398568810398596440" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br /><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Original Post: <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672064" target="_blank">0.98g Plane @ RcGroups</a></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9UfdFZdM-xM/Uy9i_rQT6bI/AAAAAAAAABg/qxV_b4OHq4I/s1600/100_6581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9UfdFZdM-xM/Uy9i_rQT6bI/AAAAAAAAABg/qxV_b4OHq4I/s1600/100_6581.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CfQdKLoauNw/Uy9jCBxfGSI/AAAAAAAAABw/ClrzMe0uhVs/s1600/100_6597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CfQdKLoauNw/Uy9jCBxfGSI/AAAAAAAAABw/ClrzMe0uhVs/s1600/100_6597.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4b4S86T7Xio/Uy9jCSYlp2I/AAAAAAAAAB8/GZqk8s1NcJY/s1600/100_6598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4b4S86T7Xio/Uy9jCSYlp2I/AAAAAAAAAB8/GZqk8s1NcJY/s1600/100_6598.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BYVqG4jLEzc/Uy9jCntwh9I/AAAAAAAAAB4/G3USgT6vcYE/s1600/IMG_9784+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BYVqG4jLEzc/Uy9jCntwh9I/AAAAAAAAAB4/G3USgT6vcYE/s1600/IMG_9784+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HdJU-LOY9a4/Uy9jC-enpNI/AAAAAAAAACA/vT8EMvt0XFQ/s1600/IMG_9786+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HdJU-LOY9a4/Uy9jC-enpNI/AAAAAAAAACA/vT8EMvt0XFQ/s1600/IMG_9786+%2528Large%2529.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />Angry Monkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09522942714469661030noreply@blogger.com0