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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Motorcycles can be dangerous if not properly maintained and ridden safely. RC Components has no control over the usage of any of its parts. RC Components expects its customers to exercise good judgment as to the proper selection, installation, use, and maintenance of any parts. RC Components assumes no responsibility for damage or injury of any kind because of the misuse or improper application of any parts in any way by any person. RC Components expects the end user to exercise good judgment. • Before installing this kit, read through these directions completely. This will familiarize you with the way in which the parts fit together and the tools needed to complete the job. • Before performing any installation steps, disconnect the motorcycle’s battery to eliminate any possibility of electrical damage or personal injury due to a short circuit. Part Number: NSTSB240 Page 2 of 12 Materials Needed: • Hardware Kit. Kit includes (See picture below): 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit Inboard Brake Kit Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 3 of 12 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 08 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 4 of 12 05-06 GSXR 1000 Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 5 of 12 05-06 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 99-07 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 6 of 12 99-07 Busa Kit for Stock Caliper Tools Needed: • Bike Specific Service Manual (Refer to manual for all torque specs and tools that are not specified by RC Components.) • Assorted hand tools, metric and standard sockets and wrenches. • Hoist or other means to lift bike. • Torque wrench • Loctite, and anti-seize • Chain breaker • Bike specific sockets are required for some bikes. (Refer to factory service manual). • Die grinder (for chain to frame clearance on some models) Installation Instructions 1.) Stock Component Removal To begin installing this kit it is necessary to raise the rear end of the bike using a suitable hoist. Be sure to keep the bike centered on the front wheel to keep the bike from tipping over. Once you have the bike lifted and properly secured, begin with the removal of the following stock components ( For detailed information on the removal of these parts, please consult your factory manual) : 1.) Muffler or mufflers 2.) Left side and lower body panels 3.) Voltage regulator (08 model only) 4.) Front sprocket cover 5.) Front sprocket 6.) Chain

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1. Find a mounting location for control box. The box is designed to be mounted to the top frame rail between split tanks, but can be mounted in a wide variety of places. If possible the box should be fastened using small screws or rivets but can be wire tied in place. Make sure the location is away from moving parts and heat sources. 2. Pre-fit harness to bike. Attach rear harness to control box. Each wire is color coded and labeled. Route individual wires to their destinations and do not cut to length. Keep wires in a bunch until they need to branch off. Use electrical tape to hold main wire bunch wherever individual or multiple wires branch off. Keep wires away from sharp edges or pinch points and leave extra wire for suspension movement. Repeat this for front and right/left harnesses. All wires not being used should be cut off at connector or secured to prevent shorts. When all wires are routed, cut excess length from ends leaving a couple extra inches for final fitment. 3 Remove pre-fitted harness from bike to install heat shrink tubing. Start at main connector and cut tubing approximately 1 inch past first branch. This will allow the next piece of tubing to slide into the first. Repeat this along entire harness. After encasing harness with heat shrink, use a heat gun to shrink tubing starting at main connectors. Be careful to not burn through the tubing with too much heat. Refit the harness to the bike, attaching to frame where necessary. Cut the ends of harness to length and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use heat gun to shrink ends. Attach terminals to their destinations. 4. The diagnostic LED’s are used to locate shorts or overloads. Pinched or bare wires, faulty components or too much current draw usually causes these. If an LED is on, turn off the bike, locate and correct the problem, then turn the bike back on. The bike must be turned off to reset the protection circuit. If no LED’s are lit, but turn signals and dash lights do not work properly, make sure the control box main ground has a good connection to the chassis ground. 5. The control box operates the turn signals as listed: First command – flash 10 times then cancel Second command on same side – cancel Second command opposite side – cancel current sequence, flash 10 times then cancel Both sides at same time – hazard, all signals flash Brake switch – flash rear signals three times then stay on for 30 seconds

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on center stand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove the seat and handle: 3. Remove the rear cowling: 4. Remove the fender assembly: 5. Remove the plastic cover on fender assembly to expose the brake and turn signal wires. Disconnect the brake light wires: 6. Remove the OEM muffler: 7. To install the Two Brothers Racing Slip-on Exhaust System: Attach the slip-tube with the X-Lite Ring™ to the muffler using the 4 (four) 6x14mm socket head cap screws and split lock washers provided. Leave loose for now. 8. Attach the rubber lined muffler clamps and plate brackets as shown to the muffler assembly using the 2 (two) 8x20mm socket head cap screws and nuts provided. Leave loose for now. 9. Install muffler assembly using the OEM mounting bolts and joint clamp. 10. Make sure muffler is aligned when the bike is centered. Then tighten the four V.A.L.E.™ assembly bolts and clamp bolts. Make sure there is clearance between wiring and all body parts. 11. Attach the turn signals/taillights and plate lights as shown in Wiring Diagram. Join wires to main wire harness using the supplied splice connectors and blue scotch locks. You can either cut the OEM modular connectors off of the wiring harness or splice new wire to them. The supplied lighting devices will need to have the modular connectors removed. Run all wiring to the left side of the rear frame, away from the muffler assembly making sure there is adequate clearance from all body parts. Make sure all lights work correctly. 12. Re-install the fender assembly, rear cowling, seat and handle from steps 2-4. 13. Double check your work for alignment and fitment. 14. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Remove any plastic film from name badge(s) and/or canister clamp(s). Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness

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The first thing to do is remove the seat, fuel tank, and possibly the front fairing if equipped. You will need plenty of room to work. Electrical Connections – You will need to locate and test a few things on your bike before you start wiring. A good ground, an ignition switched 12 volt power source, the horns, and the ignition coils. We have plug n play style harnesses available for some bikes. Check the web site for specific models. Control Box Wiring Coils – Most four cylinder motorcycles use either a individual firing system or a waste spark system. Waste spark is by far the most common. All four cylinder bikes with only two coils use a waste spark system. Most late model four cylinder sport bikes use waste spark systems even though they have four individual coils. Bikes with a waste spark systems will need the 360 calibrated unit. The 360 calibrated Sport Bike Autoshifts are identified by the 360 engraved into the box below the wire lead exit. The P/N for these boxes has the 360 as a suffix. (P/N 1-0299-360) Some of the newest fuel injected bikes (Hayabusa, GSXR1000, ZX12) that have cam sync sensors are individual firing. These bikes will require 720 calibration and will have no outside identifiers and the P/N 1-0299. The Sport Bike Auto Shift has four brown wire leads that are connected to the negative of each individual coil on a four coil system. You will notice that the connector for the four brown wires has a molded in ridge that marks the brown wire that is used as the rpm sensor. This must be connected to the number one cylinder coil negative wire.