As they say in Tokyo, itadakimasu! (let’s eat!)

Tokyo is a foodie’s paradise, offering everything from delicate tempura and super-fresh sashimi, to the small, tasty dishes served up at Japanese pubs called izakaya. Even the food sold in convenience stores is fresh and delicious: Sample the onigiri (seaweed-wrapped rice “sandwiches” containing various fish preparations), the many varieties of rice snacks, and the dried squid that goes so nicely with beer. (And yes, my fellow Canadians: Beer - as well as sake - is available, not only in all convenience stores, but in vending machines on practically every street corner.)

Other suggestions:

The top three floors of the 14-storey Takashimaya department store in Shinjuku house nothing but restaurants of every ethnicity, including Japanese. If you’re craving something non-Japanese, though, I can recommend Sitaara Grove on the 13th floor, with its inexpensive, authentic Indian fare. (Shinjuku station, New South exit)

Take the elevator all the way down to browse the food counters in any department-store basement, including Takashimaya’s. Pick up some super-fresh takeout, or an exquisitely wrapped box of cookies or snacks as a souvenir. (I loved the sweet snacks called karinta made by Tamaya Itoya. They offer free samples, and everything is packaged in elegant rice paper.)

Down an alley in the otherwise pricey neighbourhood of Roppongi lies the inexpensive and very friendly yakitori house, Nanbantei. Watch chef Akira Muto (who’s also a champion ice-carver) expertly cook up your skewered food over a central charcoal grill. The cozy setup makes it impossible not to strike up conversation with your neighbours. (Toei Oedo line to Roppongi station, exit 6, then ask for directions)

For the freshest, lightest, least greasy tempura you’ll ever eat, splurge on a meal at Ten-Ichi. This Tokyo institution has been in business since 1930, and counts Sinatra, Clinton, Gorbachev and Kissinger among its former customers. They have restaurants in Akasaka and Ginza, with cheaper outlets in many department stores. (tenichi.co.jp/book/index.html)

It’s gimmicky, a bit silly - and a ton of fun: Step inside Ninja Akasaka, and black-clad “ninjas” jump out from behind a “secret” door, then lead you through more trap doors and dark, winding corridors before seating you at your private table. The fusion menu is imaginative (try the “turban shells a la escargot, cooked by lighting a fuse”) - but hard to read in the gloom, and a little pricey. Not for the claustrophobic, or the very hungry, due to the small portions. (Ginza or Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke station, Sotobori Dori exit)

You don’t have to be vegetarian to love Harajuku’s casual, cozy Mominoki House. Open since 1976 (and feeding healthy meals to the likes of David Bowie, Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder), the set lunch menu includes tofu steak with brown rice and seven veggies, including lotus root, leek, and fennel. If you’re so inclined, pick up one of the guitars and strum a tune while waiting for your food. (JR Yamanote Line to Harajuku station, Takeshita exit; or Chiyoda or Fukutoshin lines to Meiji-jinguma station, exit 5) (www2.odn.ne.jp/mominoki-house/index-eigo.htm)

Gonpachi has a few locations (including the one in Roppongi, which inspired the famous restaurant scene in Kill Bill) but the one on the 14th floor of the E. Space Tower in Shibuya boasts a beautiful nighttime view of Tokyo and is a little more elegant. While it specializes in izakaya food, try their so-fresh-it’s-practically-squirming sashimi platter, which includes sardines and scallops. (Ginza, Hanzomon, or Fukutoshin lines to Shibuya Station, Hachiko exit) (gonpachi.jp/en/shibuya/home/location)