Berthoud stainless steel fenders arrive
with only one hole drilled. It's for the mounting point at the fork crown.
There's a hole and the fender is indented slightly for a better fit under
the fork crown.

Other than that one hole, the fenders have
no provision for mounting, when you receive them. You will get hardware,
so don't worry. But unlike other fenders such as SKS, none of the hardware
is pre-attached to the fenders. So these take a little work to install
on your bike. If you're not handy with a power drill, you'll want to
either take these to your local bike shop for installation, or consider
another brand of fenders. And, the Berthoud fork crown hardware is designed exclusively for forks with a steerer tube having an outside diameter of one inch, which was the almost universal standard for bicycle forks until the mid 1990s. It won't work on fork with 1 1/8" steerer tubes, which are becoming increasingly common these days. You'll have to make your own hardware if you have a steerer larger than 1" outside diameter.

Here is a fender strut, across the end of
a fender. The struts come with holes drilled in them already. You have
to drill holes in the correct locations on the fenders. Use the holes
in the struts as your guide. Decide how close to the back end of the
fender you want to position the strut. Keep in mind what else you
may want to put on the fender. A rear fender is a nice place to attach
a light. But the position of fender mounted tailights determines where
the brightest parts of the light's beam is aimed, so you don't want the
location of the light to be right where you have placed the strut.

Here's the rear of the front fender, viewed
from the underside. I've installed a mud flap. The fender struts are
high enough to leave room for mounting the mud flap. Even if you don't
get the mud flap, I'd suggest mounting the strut high enough so that
if you decide to get the mud flap later, you'll still have room.

On some frames, the chainstay bridge may
be further away from the fender than you would like. Put spacers between
the fender and the bridge to take up the gap. Also, it's easiest to mount
these fenders if your chainstay and seat stay bridges have threaded holes
facing the fender.

If your bike doesn't have threaded holes
in the bridges, you'll want to use ZIP ties to hold the fenders on. These
work quite well. You'll need to drill a few holes of course. And be sure
to smooth any rough edges on the holes after you drill them, otherwise
the edges will cut through the ZIP ties.

Here's the fork crown with the fender
mounted. You can see the rubber grommet and the stainless steel washer.
You can also see the back end of a bolt through the fork crown. That
isn't included with the fender. But a very interesting bolt is included.
It has a hole in it for the bolt that goes front to back through the
crown to go through. See the picture below.

The bolt has a hole in it. The hole is for
another bolt that goes through the fork crown, front to back. The other
bolt goes through the front of the fork crown, then through the hole
in the bolt pictured here, and then through the back of the fork crown.
The threaded end of the bolt pictured here hangs down from the center
of the fork crown and goes through the washer first, then the rubber
grommet, then the fender, and everything is held together with a nut.

Here the struts attach to the dropouts.
The struts may be longer than they need to be. They are aluminum, and
it's easy to cut them to length. I used SIS housing cutters. It's easy.

It's hard to see here, but I've hung the
fender from the rear rack using a ZIP tie. That makes it easy to see
how everything lines up when you've only got two hands. For those of
you with three or more hands, you can skip the ZIP tie.

Parts for Berthoud stainless steel
fenders are available. I stock the aluminum struts, all the nuts and
bolts, as well as the fenders themselves without hardware. So if anything
should be damaged in a crash, you can buy what you need to make repairs.
See the Berthoud Parts page.

If your fork does not have eyelets at the dropouts, or if it looks significantly different than the Atlantis fork pictured here, such as those bizarre one legged "forks" that Cannondale makes or some other such goofy thing that's TEN GRAMS LIGHTER!!!, I cannot offer you any advice regarding how to mount these fenders on your bike. Bikes that are designed to work with fenders are not that hard to find these days. My best advice is to purchase a bike designed to work with fenders. You may, however, upon seeing these photographs and descriptions of how to mount these fenders on a fork designed for them, be able to see a possible way of mounting them on your bike. If so, great, we'll sell you the fenders. But we cannot and will not advise you on how to go about modifying either the fork or these fenders to make them fit. You're on your own. Please do not call us or email us saying that you have such and such bicycle with a certain fork, etc. and want to know if we think these fenders will fit. I don't know if they'll fit, or can be attached securely, and since I don't have your fork or bicycle here to look at, I can't possibly know. You really really really really really really really really really really are on your own. Sorry.

The Berthoud Carbon fenders are narrow at
25mm, and very lightweight. The mounting hardware is a bit different
than what comes with the stainless fenders.The connections between the
struts and the fenders are the same, except that only one bolt is used
at each connection, rather than two. Also, the struts attach to the frame
in exactly the same way, using identical hardware. The carbon fenders
come pre-drilled, so all you have to do is shorten the aluminum struts
if necessary, and bolt them on. Modern racing bikes come with brakes
that attach with allen nuts. These can make mounting fenders a bit awkward.
But Berthoud provides special nuts which replace the allen nuts allowing
you to mount the fender directly to the end of the nut.

Here's a picture showing the back side of
a fork crown designed for an allen bolt sidepull brake. This
is the nut that replaces your allen nut. It functions exactly the same
as the standard allen nut as far as keeping your brake attached securely
to your frame. It tightens with a 10mm box end wrench. You can see that
it's threaded at the outer end. That's to take another bolt, which will
hold on the fender mounting bracket.

See? The round head allen screw bolts into
the special replacement nut for your brakes. It's an ingeneous solution
to the problem of mounting fenders to bikes with allen nutted brakes.
And it allows you to remove the fenders without loosening the attachment
of your brakes. These special allen nuts are included when you buy the
fenders.

And, yes, I have these available separately, and in four different lengths.

9mm and 13mm, Price: $
11.45

22mm, Price: $
18.70

30mm, Price: $
24.90

The dimensions, 9mm through 30mm, are for the part of the nut that you can't see, the part inside the fork crown. Different lengths are needed for different fork crowns, and for different applications. For example, if you are mounting not only fenders, but also a Busch & Müller Ixon headlight to the fork crown, that Ixon mount is 10mm thick, and so your caliper brake will then be another 10mm further forward of the fork crown, and the rear nut will have to be another 10mm in length, over and above whatever length it needed to be without the Ixon mount.

You can use these special nuts at the fork crown, and at the seat stay bridge as well.

Here's the forward mounting point of the
rear fender. There's a little screw and washer holding the end of the
fender on this little nylon clamp. At the brake bridge, there's a conventional
fender mount attached to the same special brake nut used in front and
pictured above.

At 25mm width, the fender is just as wide
as my tires, which are labelled 28mm. It's quite common for tires to
be narrower than their stated size. So, when deciding if these fenders
are right for your application, be sure to measure the actual width of
your tires. If you use these fenders with wider tires, you'll get some
spray up from the tire, but much less than you would with no fender at
all, since most of the water coming off the tire comes off the center
of the tire

Here's my Rivendell Rambouillet with the
Berthoud carbon fenders mounted. These are truly minimalist fenders,
just wide enough to keep most of the water off you from below, but clearly
not giving you as much protection as a full coverage fender, such as
the Berthoud stainless steel fenders. I expect my feet will get a good
deal soggier with these. But they sure are light. The tires are Continental
Ultra 300 700x28mm, which measure about 25mm wide. Now if only it would
rain!

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