For this plentiful autumn salad fit to fill a cornucopia, we’re
going to the Island of Madeira for the match.

Madeira is a fortified wine from the Madeira Islands of
Portugal. Much like sherry, it comes in a variety of styles ranging
from dry to sweet.

Madeira has an interesting history. As early as the 15th century
the islands were a standard port of call for ships heading to the
New World or East Indies. Wine was always a part of the cargo, and
probably one of the only civilized things on those long sea
voyages.

But it wasn’t until a case of the wine made in Madeira made its
way back to a winemaker on the island that it was learned the high
temperatures on the boats and the rough conditions caused the wine
to spoil. That’s when winemakers started fortifying the wines.

To ensure the wine would last through the less than ideal
conditions winemakers would heat the wine and fortify it, exposing
it to oxygen — something you typically try to avoid at all costs
when making wine. This process is called estufa.

This distinctive winemaking process continues, although now
winemakers use modern technology instead of sailing around tropical
climates. Because of the way the wine is made, it’s not a problem
if you open a bottle and don’t finish it for three weeks or so.

So what should you look for? Look for a Rainwater Madeira, which
is a medium dry wine. The wine is pale colored and slightly sweet
and nutty, with a hint of smoke on the nose and a clean crispness
on the finish. Chill slightly before serving.

Blandy’s and Leacock’s make a Rainwater Madeira that sells for
around $16. Remember, these wines will keep for several weeks after
you open them, so if you double your soup recipe you’ll have
something to sip alongside it.