Hornady LNL AP purchase, extras needed

Im strongly considering the purchase of a Hornady LNL AP to increase my reloading volume. In addition to the press, what other items do I need to purchase to load .45ACP, .38 Special, .40S&W, and .223 Rem (I already have dies). I'm seeing she'll, plates, bushings for each die and some recommending the RCBS X Die for .223.

Stock up on powder, primers, and bullets. You will need the shell plates for each caliber you plan to load. I would get some extra bushings, but you dont have to have one for each die. The sizer and expander dies are easy to adjust unless you are not FL resizing for the 223 and only want to set the shoulder back a set amount each time. I normallly leave the seater die in its bushing. Get some one-shot cleaner to clean the powder measure. And if you have not done so you must call Hornady's customer service just to listen to the automated message.

cfullgraf

June 12, 2012, 10:23 PM

You might want a powder cop system of some sort. Some like the Hornady die, other like the RCBS lock out die.

If you use a powder cop die, you will probably want to expand the case mouth at the charging station. Then you will need the appropriate PTX mouth expander. You may want to also get a powder drop die for each cartridge so that you do not have to re-adjust it at every cartridge change.

I made my own custom drop tubes that allow me to change tubes with no adjustment to the powder drop die. But, I also separate the resizing and reloading process, a whole other discussion.

I prefer to crimp in a separate step, so, I get crimp dies for each cartridge.

It is easy to use up the five stations on the Hornady L-N-L.

I have loaded 223 Remington on my L-N-L but it does not ring my bell. I really do not like handling greasy cases when I am also handling primer and powders. But lots of folks do it all the time.

Walkalong

June 12, 2012, 10:30 PM

I deprime and size all my .223 on the LNL, tumble them, then hand prime and load them on the LNL. Separates the sticky from loading.

Besides the press, which comes with a measure, you need the proper shell plates & bushings (A set, or one for each die for convenience.). Extra shell plate case retainer springs come in handy. You'll booger yours up sooner or later.

I see each charge, and do not use a powder cop die, but many people do and like them. I have never used the X-Die, but folks who do really like them.

Huskerguy

June 12, 2012, 11:06 PM

Had to chuckle as I just posted the same question on another forum. I have been digging through multiple replies and this is what I ended up with.

Looked up prices for three items including the press and Cabela's, Midway, and Natchez were within $3.00 of each other. I went with Midway since I order lots of stuff from them

I did get extra retainer springs.
I went with an extra pistol rotor with metering stem. This is because I load titegroup and most loads are in the 3-4 range which this system is made for
Going to start out with one caliber until I get the hang of things - 9mm if I can find some shell plates - Midway had none in stock
Went with 10 pack of bushings - looks to me like one will go with a bunch of these over time
Plan to go with this funnel: /products.html"]http://powderfunnels.com/products.html [/URL]that someone recommend and it looks like the way to go
I have all my dies and plan to use my Lee FCD in the last hole.

I am looking forward to getting it and getting started. I took the advice of a few who said, start out with one simple caliber and go from there.

Best of luck

Blue68f100

June 13, 2012, 08:25 AM

I use the PTX dies for my pistol loads. This allows you to run a powder cop or lockout die in station 3. The powder cop die works with rifle rounds where the lockout only works with pistol. If you want a quick change over get extra metering stems or the micrometer head for fine easy adj. Extra primer tubes are handy if you like to load non-stop with out a break. A can of can air is nice to keep any spilled powder out of the priming seater/sled area. I took a file and knocked the leading sharp edge off of the bottom front of the sled(s). This gives the powder some place to go without restricting it. Extra brass retainer springs are nice but Hornady will send you some free if you just tell them you kinked yours. Remove the spring when not in use helps to save it. When installing, just have it lay in the slot at station 1 and stretch it over once the shell plate is in place. Mine current spring has been on for over 2 yrs now, I use to eat them.

Enjoy your new press.

birdshooter

June 13, 2012, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the input! You gave me some ideas on things I didn't think of. I can always count on THR!

sean eady

June 13, 2012, 05:37 PM

LOL....... My LNL AP should be here tomorrow afternoon. I am sooo excited. I also orderd from Midway , but like you I also found they didn't have any shell plates. Cheaper Than Dirt has most of them in stock.

eam3clm@att.net

June 13, 2012, 06:24 PM

I am not sure if it is true, but it has been suggested to me not to use the rifle LFCD with the hornady LNL due to the die putting pressure on the shell plate. The other lfcd are ok to use.

Walkalong

June 13, 2012, 06:57 PM

It should be OK unless you try to crimp the living heck out of the round. I was be a little hesitant myself, but I have used a Lee rifle FCD on mine to crimp 7.62X39 with no problems.

BYJO4

June 13, 2012, 07:02 PM

The press comes with both the pistol and rifle powder rotors and metering inserts. Since I don't care to readjust dies when changing calibers, I suggest you get the items shown in the below photo for each caliber. You can change very quickly this way. I also prefer the Hornady PTX Expanders and the RCBS Lockout dies.

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l545/BYJO4/LNLAccessories.jpg

Huskerguy

June 13, 2012, 08:42 PM

I should be putting it together, trying to take my time and enjoy the fun of it. I love tinkering.

Bowfishrp

June 14, 2012, 11:38 AM

+1 on the pistol meter insert! I too use titegroup too and I would not want to load 9mm or 380 without the smaller pistol meter.

Oh and once you get good you are going to want to get a case feeder. Just added one to my 4 yr old LNL AP and its the best purchase I have made since I bought the press!

Uncle Richard

June 14, 2012, 12:21 PM

buy the RCBS LOCK OUT DIE............ acts as a safety measure to prevent low-to-no and double powder charges..... based on personal expirience, trust me...the die is worth ~$45

the hornady powder cop is nice to indicate the amount of charge but the RCBS die locks up the press incase your not paying attention.

rsrocket1

June 14, 2012, 08:35 PM

Absolute minimum requirements:

Primer flipper tray
Hornady One Shot Dry Gun Lube (not the case lube) or degreaser and dry lube, especially for the powder measure parts. All metal parts of the powder measure and powder drop inside and out.
Grease gun with zerk fittings to lube the press through the zerk fittings. Spray lube is not enough.

Watch the videos on Hornady's website for the instructions. Much better than the printed one.

Bowfishrp

June 15, 2012, 10:01 AM

Yeah a flip tray is required. However, I use plastic paint cans with lids to hold some of my brass and the plastic lids work great as a primer flip tray.

rsrocket1

June 15, 2012, 11:29 AM

The ability to flip the primers is OK if they are lying all properly in the boxed tray, but you also need to be able to flip the wrong sided primers over. A $5 RCBS tray works fine. If you are a McGyver, you can turn one of those trays into a vibratory feeder to also slide the primers into the tube right side up. You can also modify a Lee Safety Prime tray to feed the tube.

I don't mind picking up the primers with the pick up tube. It only takes about a minute to pick up 100 primers.