I had a similar problem when I built my chassis. The roll cage front hoop needed to be bent to follow the profile of the rear edge of the windshield. This was a large, non-constant radius bend. I took two lengths of tubing to an off-road 4x4 fab shop and explained how I thought the bends could be made- make a slight bend, move the tubing forward a bit, and make another slight bend, etc. It worked out just fine and the second length of tubing wasn't needed after all. I made a Masonite template of the inside of the windshield curve and the bender operator followed that curve. It worked out nicely. Maybe you could try the same trick?

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out. Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me. This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer. I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth. We will see how this works out....

The half inch higher helps for helmet growth and exit ease, the 1.5" longer makes exit ease worse. With the lay down position, with neck flexed already it makes exit harder. Having built a car with inadequate cage height and a front bar that made it ok to get in, impossible to get out (removed the bar which worked for a while and then the inspectors said "nah, nah") be sure of your measurements and adjustments before cutting and for sure welding anything. But I know you know all this, just sayin.... Looking good and will be watching your progress.

Jack, thanks... the 1/2 higher is in the hard plan... the deeper cage number will be helmet dependent... our old cage shrunk to being a "how you measure the 3 inch minimum" front clearance... and can you keep your head off the cage during a run. The rougher salt made it a lot harder. We are all getting older, our knees not working as well as they once did.... so the bar at the front of the cage will move about 3 inches. Of course my plan is to make and tack in the parts except the front bar, and then see where that one needs to go. The old cage was very tight in and out, but we never had a bailout problem with anyone that drove.

it's actually very easy to go in and out....the trick is to slide backwards into the roll cage and opposite to get out....

...and Stainless, what problem you getting....I went out without taking the steering wheel off.....

a real issue is the space between helmet and roll cage....at rough salt you come very easy in contact with the upper roll cage bow and than the view is gone....so much vibration... and you have to "shorten" your neck to get free of the roll cage and has to keep this position during the run....not very comfortable....OK...the Bockscar was never a comfortable racer....but therefor he was not built....

Jack, thanks... the 1/2 higher is in the hard plan... the deeper cage number will be helmet dependent... our old cage shrunk to being a "how you measure the 3 inch minimum" front clearance... and can you keep your head off the cage during a run. The rougher salt made it a lot harder. We are all getting older, our knees not working as well as they once did.... so the bar at the front of the cage will move about 3 inches. Of course my plan is to make and tack in the parts except the front bar, and then see where that one needs to go. The old cage was very tight in and out, but we never had a bailout problem with anyone that drove.

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out. Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me. This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer. I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth. We will see how this works out....

Why not tie the roll bar into the top tube instead of going all the way to the bottom tube?

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out. Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me. This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer. I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth. We will see how this works out....

Why not tie the roll bar into the top tube instead of going all the way to the bottom tube?