1. My washer does not spin.To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Wait for a few minutes. On 1995 and newer models, pauses of up to three minutes may occur between cycles as the timer advances in steps. For example, there may be a 3 minute delay at the end of agitation and prior to the washer pumping out the water. The pump-out process itself can then take an additional 3 minutes. After the pump out, the washer will begin to spin. Do not manually advance the timer if it's pausing after agitation, as you may miss the pump-out cycle.

Check your house fuses, circuit breakers, and the wall outlet. A loss of electrical power to the washer will cause a failure to spin. To check for power at the wall outlet, carefully plug a small table lamp or hair dryer into the wall outlet and turn it on. If it does not work, you may have blown a fuse, tripped a circuit breaker, or have a defective wall outlet.

Make sure washer lid is down. Some older washers will agitate with lid up, but none will spin with lid up.

For 1994 and older models:

Advance timer slightly to make sure timer was not in a pause mode. The word "Spin" may not appear on the dial. Spin occurs in the area just before the "Off" position.

For 1995 and newer models:

For models with rotary knob "Spin Speed" selector switch:
Check that the pointer of knob is not stuck between speed selections.

If machine pumps water out and you are positive that the motor is running, but tub is not spinning, then the problem is mechanical involving clutch/belt/transmission. For this you will need to , contact MC Commercial Inc., by calling 1-888-261-2088, for more information and/or to arrange service.

2. My washer is leaking water on the floor. To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from
the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Is the lid up? If so, some water splattering around the lid area
is normal.

If the lid is down, try to determine where water is coming from:

For 1994 and earlier models if water is showing up in the front
left corner, water may be splashing down the overflow tube. (This
pertains only to full size washers; there is no overflow tube on compact
models.) This condition is caused by "oversudsing," especially if you
have soft water. Using less detergent will help solve this condition.
Test by running washer through cycle without soap. If it still leaks,
contact MC Commercial Inc., by calling 1-888-261-2088, for more information and/or
to arrange service.

Note: When "Tide Laundry Detergent With Bleach" is
used in combination with Chlorine bleach, "oversudsing" (and in turn
overflow) may occur. This is especially true if you have soft water.

Check to see if the washer is overloaded or out of balance.
Be sure to sort not only by color and fabric but by weight, i.e. wash
heavy items with similar heavy items.

Check fill hoses for loose connections. Black rubber washer
inserts are included in the installation package. If these are not installed,
there will be water leaking from the fill hoses at the faucet, or at
the washer connection. If hose connections are "hand tight" and still
leaking, the rubber washer may be missing or worn out.

Check house standpipe. Water may be backing up and spilling
out of the standpipe as the washer is draining. The standpipe is the
drain line where your washer drain hose is connected. As the washer
is pumping water out, observe the drain and if water comes backing out
of the top, you will need a plumber to clean the drain.

Make sure drain hose is secure in drainpipe and not slipping out
during a drain cycle. If your washer is a 1995 or newer model, a
"plastic tie" strap is included with the installation package and should
be used to secure drain hose to the cold water inlet hose. If this is
not done, the pressure of the water may cause the drain hose to pop
out of the hose drain.

On 1995 and newer models, make sure drain hose is secured and
fully inserted into the washer drain hose port prior to assembly of
plastic drain hose clamp. A plastic retainer clamp is used to attach
the drain hose to the back of the washer. When the hose is inserted
correctly, the retainer clamp will not be flush with the cabinet. But,
once the two clamp screws are installed and tightened, the clamp will
be pulled to the cabinet. Refer to your Washer Installation Instructions
for proper hookup instructions.

3. The water is not draining out of my washer.To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Make sure the washer lid is down. On 1994 and older models the washer spins and drains at the same time. So the lid must be down.

Wait a few minutes. On 1995 and newer models, pauses of up to 3 minutes may be noticed between cycles as the timer advances in steps. Do not manually advance the timer if it is pausing after agitation as you may miss the pump-out cycle.

On 1994 and older models, advance timer slightly to make sure timer was not in a pause mode.

On 1995 and newer washers, if no water is visible in the basket, but you hear a "sloshing water sound" as you move the tub, this is normal. The sloshing you hear is coming from the balance ring. The balance ring is attached to the inner clothes basket and allows the basket to spin smoothly during an out-of-balance situation.

Make sure drain hose is not "kinked" or trying to drain more than 8 ft. higher than the floor. The maximum height a GE full size washer will pump is 8 feet, as measured from the floor of the laundry area; 5 feet high for a compact or portable washer.

4. My washer is noisy.To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

What kind of noise is it?

Grinding, shaking or vibrating: 1995 and newer washers have a shipping rod located on the bottom right side of washer, that must be removed just prior to setting the washer in place. If rod is not removed, the washer will shake, grind, or vibrate. (Do not remove the rod until just before moving into place, because transporting the washer on a cart or dolly without the rod can cause the tub to shift out of alignment or become caught on bottom brackets.)
To remove shipping rod: Locate the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer, grasp end of rod and pull straight out to release the suspension system. If the shipping rod has not been removed and the machine has been operating, no functional damage will have occurred unless the washer has been operating with the shipping rod in place over a very long period of time.

A "sawing" noise: On 1995 and newer washers, a "sawing noise" in agitation is normal. This occurs until the brake pad "wears in" with the braking surface. The noise should stop after a short period of use.

A gurgling, or "sucking" noise: This noise before (and possibly during) the spin cycle is a normal sound as the drain pump finishes draining the water from the machine. The noise will stop as the water is extracted from the clothes during the spin cycle.

A "sloshing" noise: This noise may be heard throughout the cycle; this too is normal.

5. I have a strange odor inside my washer. To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

New washers often give off an odor described as a burning match or electrical smell. This is normal and is caused by the "wearing in" of clutch shoes and the heating of new paint on the motor windings.

Older washer odors are usually caused by leaving the washer lid closed when not in use. This does not allow air to circulate and dry out the moisture remaining in tub area. The air and moisture mixture becomes stagnant and creates an odor. When washer is not in use, leaving the lid up/open for air circulation will help prevent odor.
To get rid of odors inside of washer follow the steps listed below:

6. I am getting oil on my clothes/floor. To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.Greasy or oily stains on clothes:

The 1995 and newer washer transmission design makes it highly improbable for oil from the transmission to get into washer and splatter on clothing. Most of the time it is caused by splatters from cooking oil. Stains from foods or cooking oils, sometimes called "invisible stains", may not be noticed as you put clothes in the washer. If not completely removed in the wash cycle, the oily spots may pick up dirt from wash water making the spots visible. The washer does not cause these spots.

To prevent:
Wash garments as soon as practical after wearing, using more detergent than normal and the hottest wash water fabric can stand.

To correct:
Rub in undiluted detergent, let stand 30 minutes and rewash, using hottest water fabric can stand.

If your water is extremely hot, 150 degrees or higher, the water inlet hose(s) could start to break down, causing black greasy stains on clothes. Refer to the Use and Care Guide for your water heater, set the temperature accordingly, and replace the inlet hose(s).

Oil on the floor:Oil leaks on the floor come from the washer transmission. There is no repair on the existing transmission; it must be replaced. This will require a qualified service technician. Contact MC Commercial Inc., by calling 1-888-261-2088, for more information and/or to arrange service.

7. My washer is walking/vibrating. To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Check to see that the washer is level. The washer needs to be level and sitting on a good solid floor, such as a concrete or reinforced wood floor. Refer to installation instructions for proper leveling.

Make sure the load is balanced in the washer. Unbalanced loads can cause the washer to vibrate more. Stop the machine and redistribute the load. The more the legs are extended, the shakier the washer will be during operation.

On 1994 and later model washers, try readjusting front legs or re-leveling the machine. Make sure rubber pads are on leveling legs (the two front legs). Make sure front leg lock nuts are tight. Refer to install instructions for leveling instructions.

On 1995 and newer washers, you must remove the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer just before sliding the washer into place.Do not remove the rod prior to sliding into place because transporting the washer on a cart or dolly without the rod can cause washer to be noisy.
To remove the shipping rod: Locate the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer, grasp end of rod and pull straight out to release the suspension system. If the shipping rod has not been removed and the machine has been operating, no functional damage will have occurred unless the washer has been operating with the shipping rod in place over a very long period of time.

8. How do I remove the agitator? To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

For washers produced after 1994: Grasp around the agitator shirt (do not pull from the top) and pull the agitator up from the bottom. There are no screws holding it.

To put the agitator back in place, line up the grooves on the agitator with the shaft and push down firmly. When the agitator is properly in place, there is not a finger's space between the agitator and the bottom of the tub.

If your washer was produced before 1995: for instructions on removing the agitator, contact MC Commercial Inc., by calling 1-888-261-2088, for more information and/or to arrange service.