This is Lance
Hawkins awesome 1966 model FJ40.

I am one lucky
shop owner to be doing the conversion on this sweet 1967 truck Below you
will find the sequence of pictures we took as the truck went throught its
growing pains.

Here goes everything. We
disassemble the front cap and the interior all at once.

Everything came out fairly easily.
The wiring is always difficult and let me tell you, Toyota sure learned as they
went along because the wiring on early models and the factory installation to
put it bluntly, suck.

Check out the chaos the consumes the
cruiser as things progress

One thing I have found to be a crucial
part of all major conversions like this one is to assemble the entire drive line
or skeleton thereof and make sure every thing fits before any major welding is
done.

You can see the space between the xfer
and the lower portion of the body. That's good!

For some reason Lance's cruiser had
small holes everywhere in the back so we had to weld, fill and grind them all
flat before prepping the truck for the liner.

Next came the roll cage. I didn't
want to burn the liner with the welding spatter so we went ahead and assemble
the family cage and drilled the holes. Lance is having the cage and
windshield hooks painted to match the silver on his seat frames. Very
trick

By the way check out the feet on the
rollcage. Nice touch, you can say it.

Ugh, prepping for the liner.
The fourth pic above shows why we are the best. Look for the holes that
were present before. They are no longer and the liner looks absolutely
great.

Here are some sequences involving the
prepping of the frame for motor installation.

The rear disc
conversion went smoothly. We then moved on to moving and shaping the
brakelines for the driver side frame rail. The stock master cylinder goes
bye-bye shortly.

The next series
shows the some of the steps involved when installing the Man-a-fre bolt on
kit. Its actually a very cool kit but did have some minor issues we had to
overcome.

These next pictures
show the correction kit and power steering being installed.

Again, make sure
everything fits.

Notice the bolts
welded in for the bumper. One of the greatest tools invented: the pickle
fork for an impact air hammer.

Here you can see
where the fit is affected by the slope of the front frame crossmember.
Notice the hole for the sector is blocked by the correction kit. I use the
hole saw to scribe the hole then cut it with a torch.

The next step is to
get the motor and tranny installed so that the final fittings can start.

Once the motor is
in we can concentrate on the wiring of the truck, that way you can see
where wires need to go and connectors need to be. Check out how we make
the accelerator cable fit snugly.

The power steering
column was installed next.

These next pictures
are not that clear but do show how we did the battery box. This was done
before we got to work on the truck so we refined it and made it
functional. These are extremely heavy duty custom battery cables.
Notice the multiple grounding straps.

We wired up the
motor next. ATD is essential here. Look closely at the heat shield
for the wiring. The power center keeps the rear mounted battery box free
of wires.

The last picture
shows how things sometimes don't go the way you plan. I intend on the oil
cooler going in front of the radiator. There was just not enough
room. So I put the cooler on the side of the radiator in an upright
position. It will not be as effective as the original plan would have made
it but it will still take the edge off the temperature of the oil.

These are some of the reasons people
choose us to do there conversions. I cleaned up the dash of all the
extras, the check engine light is tucked away nicely, the heater is
adapted to the motor in a clean way, the shifters look stock and are
functional, and I'll let Lance cut the carpet and the mats for the rollcage.