You would have to do a lot of towing to make a significant difference. Good idea, but cant see the cost benefit. I own an 01 HD for instance that gets 10 to 12 no matter what i tow. And still only gets 12 not towing anything. Unless your making a couple trips out west each year or long trips in general, i don't see the savings being worth the effort. You might gain a mile per gallon, maybe two if your lucky.

You would have to do a lot of towing to make a significant difference. Good idea, but cant see the cost benefit. I own an 01 HD for instance that gets 10 to 12 no matter what i tow. And still only gets 12 not towing anything. Unless your making a couple trips out west each year or long trips in general, i don't see the savings being worth the effort. You might gain a mile per gallon, maybe two if your lucky.

I think in most of their cases, they are referring to half tons and such when your mileage goes from 16 unloaded to 8 loaded (exaggeration maybe).

I think in most of their cases, they are referring to half tons and such when your mileage goes from 16 unloaded to 8 loaded (exaggeration maybe).

Quit worring about what's towed to make up milage. I've done all kinds of crazy trailers over the years, but realized nothing will compensate for the versatility of a standard 20' car trailer. A small single axle trailer would hold my 5 and probably tow ok, but I pack way different amounts of tools, spares etc.. depending on the destination....and what if I want to take the 8, not the 5? I often find myself helping out someone that's broke down or bringing home stuff assorted oddball stuff. Beats having several specialty trailers all over the yard for each thing you tow. Make up the difference on the other end, a diesel gave me 7(Detroit) to 9 (Cummins) more MPG with the exact same load. And the Cummins gets 19-20 as a DD

I guess if you have a specific little lightweight 4x4 that is loaded exactly the same, with all the same equipment each time you go somewhere, to do the same exact type of course, then maybe it would justify the .7 to 1 MPG you'll pick up towing it with a 1/2 ton or less SUV or "truck"

I know you have your mind made up about the stubby trailer, but think about the teeter tawter(sp) effect of a single axle trailer, combined with the extended tail of the tow rig, add a bumpy snow covered corner, and you might have issues with it unloading the back tires. You might have a recipe for disaster with that combo.

Quit worring about what's towed to make up milage. I've done all kinds of crazy trailers over the years, but realized nothing will compensate for the versatility of a standard 20' car trailer. A small single axle trailer would hold my 5 and probably tow ok, but I pack way different amounts of tools, spares etc.. depending on the destination....and what if I want to take the 8, not the 5? I often find myself helping out someone that's broke down or bringing home stuff assorted oddball stuff. Beats having several specialty trailers all over the yard for each thing you tow. Make up the difference on the other end, a diesel gave me 7(Detroit) to 9 (Cummins) more MPG with the exact same load. And the Cummins gets 19-20 as a DD

I guess if you have a specific little lightweight 4x4 that is loaded exactly the same, with all the same equipment each time you go somewhere, to do the same exact type of course, then maybe it would justify the .7 to 1 MPG you'll pick up towing it with a 1/2 ton or less SUV or "truck"

A classic example of missing the point. Not everyone wants to spend $40k+ plus to 'save' money at the pump. Or wants to DD a 3/4 ton. And down here where I live, you don't get 20mpg driving a diesel 3/4 ton. And as detailed in the other thread, I know I've got 10mpg in my V10 while my buddies cummins got 14. That'd save me $250 a year in towing (again, for a $6000+ option)....

The average person in this hobby seems to think bigger is better. And that works fine for most. Some people like to think outside the box. To each his own.

The world seems to survive just fine with 4000lb boat trailers on a single axle.

Sure this whole concept makes little sense strictly from a numbers standpoint, but in this sport very little does! If someone enjoys fab work and is willing to put the time into learning how to make it right, then why not?

Jmdzuk keep the pictures coming! One of the things not discussed, unless I missed it, is narrowing the trailer track width like in the last picture. That will make it easier to maneuver and should reduce aerodynamic drag some, though the narrower track my hurt stability somewhat. I had considered converting my single axle bed over to something like that moon buggy trailer to tow my K5, though between having to source an 8k axle and all the fab work...well when a good deal on a used tandem car hauler came along that idea was shelved.

Whiterino, what did you tow the single axle trailer with? If in doubt I tend to go heavy on the tongue weight and it has apparently worked so far. Sounds like your setup was a bit finicky. Maybe a WDH would have helped. Iíve never used one, but guys that have tend to swear by them.

Wow .........
Ok with all the info over the last couple of days this what I got out of it .

Flat towing a 4,500lbs jeep is better on gas less wind drag ect......than on a trailer

My rig weighs 3,400lbs loaded ,a 900-1,000lbs trailer would put me at 4,400lbs
Seems like I would get better millage than putting it on my buddy's 2,000bs equipment trailer.

Remember I started this tread so its all about me ::chiefwoohaw:

Tire blow out and not safe on a single axle ? I would say thats BS(It is dangerous but not any more than loosing a tire on your jeep or road bike or dump truck ,air plain :chiefwoohaw:).
I would worry more about a front tire on my tow rig than a trailer tire dropping out. I have seen tandem trailers loss 1 then the 2nd one right after because of road debris hitting both bumpity bump 2 flats . and you just pull over.

Single axle being a pain in the ass to set up, sure some futsing around but not impossible .Worth it? maybe to me and not to a guy with allot of money and a big truck to pull a big trailer.

I have a buggy with no top, doors or license plate it has a low COG and would be nice to have a trailer to leave it on in the garage so when I wont run over to my buddys or the uncles farm all I have to do is hook on and go .( thats the bad part about having a buggy)
I think with a lite weigh set up it would help with fuel ,less rotating mass and mass to stop and keep rollin

Plus as stated in my first post I have some parts to build with /play around.It may end up 2 axle or single I don't know?
And a aluminum trailer is to dang expensive and a 16' weights 1,500lbs and cost about $5,000 .And will look like crap in a few years unless you acid wash it ,then cracks and you cant just weld a d ring on or a brkt. ect...(I have fixed to many horse and snowmobile trailers to ever own one).

Well thats all I got

Thanks again ,keep the comments coming and I will start a build thread when I get to it .Soon I hope .
Jeff

My rig weighs 3,400lbs loaded ,a 900-1,000lbs trailer would put me at 4,400lbs
Seems like I would get better millage than putting it on my buddy's 2,000bs equipment trailer.

Here is my little input. You wouldn't want one without any suspension on it, tows like crap. Bounces bad and is all over the road from the bouncing. And will start to break parts because of it. We have one at work like that, and after using it for a few years its being fixed constantly.
As for less weight better gas mileage, I'm not sure about that. One of the combos we tow with at work is a 20' trailer that can weight 4500-7000# loaded. We get the same gas mileage towing that trailer weather it weighs 4500# or 7000#. I would agree that keeping it lower might help save some gas mileage.

And the above pic doesn't seem too safe. I know you can tow a trailer behind a 5th wheel...but not sure the camper manufacture would agree towing 6-7000k behind it is safe.

One design I've considered, but not fully thought through yet is a "detachable" trailer. Kinda like a subframe something that attached itself to the vehicle to be towed. Or something like a tow dolly...

Another thought: maybe by unhooking the trailer, lowering the tongue to the ground, driving onto the trailer facing the wrong way. Put your front tires into pockets (on the rear of the trailer), and the rear onto a pocket thats on the ground, then when you lift the tongue up it lifts up the rear of the buggy. It would get rid of the wicked bump I see in most pics, the rear of the trailer would be taller than the front acting like a wedge (less drag?). You could backup on the trailer I suppose, I guess it would depend on your wieght distribution of the vehicle....

Just thoughts when I get bored at work...

I agree with you jmdzuk, I would probably just keep it on the trailer and it would be ready to move quickly.