I should have done a little more research before I bought it because, as they say, a deal that looks too good to be true...

I just figured that, heck, I'd already successfully upgraded 2 Series 2's, a series 3 and a HD - How hard could a Premiere be?

{sigh}

Oh well, I suppose I'll just hang on to it until an image becomes available....

There is in fact something already available. The file is @2GB and the current process is fairly involved but it can be done.. The creator is working on an easier to use process that uses a GUI. But if you're in a hurry, post your request addressed to ggiesake in this thread.

I have the image I need for my TivoHD thanks to Unitron But I was wondering if someone could point me to a step by step instruction guide on how to load that image to my new hard drive using winMFS. I'm scared to do it on my own and mess up my brand new drive.
Thank you guys sooo sooo much in advance!

I have the image I need for my TivoHD thanks to Unitron But I was wondering if someone could point me to a step by step instruction guide on how to load that image to my new hard drive using winMFS. I'm scared to do it on my own and mess up my brand new drive.
Thank you guys sooo sooo much in advance!

I have a Dell Desktop I was hoping to connect the new hard drive to using an ESATA cable. The hard drive is Seagate Pipeline 500GB ST3500321CS.

After downloading the image from you I thought that I would connect the new hard drive to my computer, run winMFS and then restoring it with the image I downloaded from you. Am I off base? (My old hard drive died so I didn't want to use it to make a backup and load that to the new hard drive from fear of corrupting the new hard drive)

I have a Dell Desktop I was hoping to connect the new hard drive to using an ESATA cable. The hard drive is Seagate Pipeline 500GB ST3500321CS.

After downloading the image from you I thought that I would connect the new hard drive to my computer, run winMFS and then restoring it with the image I downloaded from you. Am I off base? (My old hard drive died so I didn't want to use it to make a backup and load that to the new hard drive from fear of corrupting the new hard drive)

Thanks again!

First thing, run Seagate's diagnostic software long test on the drive before putting it into service.

Be sure you're using the file with the .tbk extension and not the .bak if you're going to restore with WinMFS.

The hard drive died just as I was about to give my father my three year old 652 model HD.

I downloaded WinMFS last night along with your 652 image (and the 648 image for my S3) and loaded the image to a used 500GB drive to test the restore and it worked!

I haven't read this whole thread, but I did an internet search when I got error code 51 and found out that I'd have to do a clear and delete to make it usable, but I'm happy to be up and running again.

I visually inspected all of the caps and none of them appear to be ruptured or buldging. Is there a way to test each cap?

Yes, but...

First get a voltmeter and check the yellow wire for +12V DC and the red wire for +5V DC, and see how close to those values you get.

The black wires are ground, as is the metal chassis.

You can test by unplugging the 4 pin Molex power connector from the IDE/PATA hard drive (or IDE/SATA adapter) and sticking the meter probes into the holes, just don't let the probes' metal parts touch each other while doing that.

And you can plug the plug back onto the drive and "backprobe" to see what readings you get with the drive drawing current as well.

You can have a bad cap that doesn't have visual signs of having gone, or being in the process of going, bad.

Come back with the +12 and +5 line readings you get with and without the drive attached (in addition to the motherboard always attached) and we'll go from there.

First get a voltmeter and check the yellow wire for +12V DC and the red wire for +5V DC, and see how close to those values you get.

The black wires are ground, as is the metal chassis.

You can test by unplugging the 4 pin Molex power connector from the IDE/PATA hard drive (or IDE/SATA adapter) and sticking the meter probes into the holes, just don't let the probes' metal parts touch each other while doing that.

And you can plug the plug back onto the drive and "backprobe" to see what readings you get with the drive drawing current as well.

You can have a bad cap that doesn't have visual signs of having gone, or being in the process of going, bad.

Come back with the +12 and +5 line readings you get with and without the drive attached (in addition to the motherboard always attached) and we'll go from there.

I've already checked the voltages on the molex connector. Without the drive plugged in they read +12.2 and +5.1. With the drive plugged in, the voltages drop to +12.1 and +5.0. These voltages seem to be within tolerance.

I've already checked the voltages on the molex connector. Without the drive plugged in they read +12.2 and +5.1. With the drive plugged in, the voltages drop to +12.1 and +5.0. These voltages seem to be within tolerance.

Congratulations, you have a good power supply and will have to look elsewhere to figure out what's causing your problem.

Drive passes all S.M.A.R.T test and manufacturers long tests. I've even tried a brand new factory fresh drive amd a brand new ribbon cable.

Okay, if it's desperate measure Hail Mary play time, replace the coin cell battery with a nice fresh one straight from the store, power the drive from a PC power supply, and then plug in the TiVo, but first run mfsinfo on the drive with either the MFS Live cd or WinMFS.