Part of the propulsion system of the amphibious assault ship Essex is being replaced as part of a multimillion-dollar overhaul. Shown are a section of the propeller shaft (lower) and the main strut on the port side of the ship.— John Gastaldo

Part of the propulsion system of the amphibious assault ship Essex is being replaced as part of a multimillion-dollar overhaul. Shown are a section of the propeller shaft (lower) and the main strut on the port side of the ship.
— John Gastaldo

“What is that smell?” I ask, as we climb down a steep ladder, down, down into the ship’s engine rooms.

It appears to be part industrial solvent, part paint, part heated grease.

Indeed. The amphibious assault ship Essex sits in a San Diego dry dock for an 18-month overhaul, and about 90 of its sailors are stuck doing some dirty, dirty jobs.

It’s certainly not what is advertised on recruiting posters. But the Navy saves money by using sailors for labor during shipyard periods. The Essex’s skipper estimates he is getting $200 million worth of upgrades, though the civilian General Dynamics NASSCO contract is for only $150 million.

Sailor Tremaine Jelks turns over her hands. The palms are blackened by grease, or possibly debris that flew up as she removed four layers of paint and primer from a metal surface.

“This is after 45 minutes of work,” says Jelks, 22, after she tears off her respirator and goggles and ear plugs. “Yeah, my arms get tired.”

There’s something called a needle gun. It’s loud. And it vibrates like crazy as its “needles” tear into the old paint and primer covering many surfaces aboard the Essex.

“Everything we do here, we take to bare metal,” says Morgan, supervisor of the engine room overhaul. “Because if there’s any corrosion on it, I know I’ve got it all.”

Sailor Robyn Fuller, as part of a so-called Tiger Team, works on installing insulation to a room below decks in the Essex.
— John Gastaldo

Sailor Robyn Fuller, as part of a so-called Tiger Team, works on installing insulation to a room below decks in the Essex.
— John Gastaldo

Some sailors are scraping off floor tiles. Others are ripping out insulation.

During this face-lift, the ship is getting attention from bow to stern at the NASSCO shipyards on San Diego Bay. The entire 850-foot vessel is up on gigantic wooden blocks, its massive scarred hull exposed.