I never start by comparing one restaurant to another. Even after seeing the hot bacon dressing and chicken potpie on the menu, I held my tongue.

It’s only when co-owner Kyle Kostenbader mentioned Hartman’s did I realize why there was such a familiarity about the place. Granted, the bar holds alcohol instead of ice cream at this incarnation, and the restaurant sits in Bushkill Township, not Plainfield Township, but that spirit’s still there.

From the friendly, relaxed atmosphere to the large portions of comfort food that Kostenbader and Gail Bruch are dishing up, locals will appreciate the feel of this new no-frills spot.

“That kind of restaurant and atmosphere was needed in this area,” Kostenbader says of the likeness between his menu and the former restaurant’s. The longtime couple wanted a relaxed, country setting that wasn’t stuffy. And Kostenbader wanted it to be a spot where one person could come in and order a seafood combination and the other a cheese steak, and still be comfortable. Speaking of cheese steaks, there’s sauce, and yes, it’s a specially-made steak sauce (I’m never letting that one go).

Have you been to The Cherry Hill Hotel?

How would you rate the restaurant on a 5-star scale? Check back often to see how this and your other favorite restaurants rank.

Taste: Kostenbader’s going for comfort food at reasonable prices and good-sized portions, and as much homemade as possible. The most expensive thing on the menu rings in at $13.95. Customers will find steaks, honey-dipped chicken, calves’ liver, and a seafood section. Sandwiches include Reubens and hot roast beef, but it’s the specials list that really draws ‘em in. At least three dinner and sandwich specials rotate weekly and now that fall is here, they’re focused on good, hearty food. Lobster pot pie, chicken and dumplings, beef stroganoff, pork and sauerkraut, and meatloaf, just to name a few. The homemade soups have included butternut squash and ham, potato and kale.

Local flavor: Calandra’s cheese fans will be happy to know the cheese is the backbone of their homemade mozzarella sticks and adds depth to their lasagna (which they make to order).

Sweet treats: Desserts rotate, including slices from the Pie Shop in Nazareth.

“It’s good stuff that you like to come in and eat a big bowl of,” he says. “Usually people go away with a little something for the next day’s lunch too.”

Libation Station: The bar has seven beers and birch beer on tap. The wine list features local Franklin Hill Vineyards offerings. For the fall, Kostenbader recommends the Pumpkin Martini (pumpkin vodka, spiced rum and half and half) — $7.25.

Special events: There’s a raw bar scheduled for Nov. 30 (see website for times and details). And the hotel will be open New Year’s Eve and will serve up pork and sauerkraut on New Year’s Day. “It’s convenient for couples who don’t want to make a whole roast for themselves,” Kostenbader says.

Clam Night: Dig in on Wednesdays for Clam Night. Two dozen littlenecks for $4.95 are offered from 4 to 9 p.m. There’s a happy hour special the same night with 25 cents off all drafts from 4 to 7 p.m.