Power cable fitting

First remove the glovebox With the glovebox open you can prise out the end cap (the bit on the end of the dash that's hidden when the door is shut). Then it's just six 8mm nuts. 1 behind the end cap, up high near the front of the glovebox. 3 along the top and one at the back (inside the glovebox). Then 2 underneath either side in the passenger footwell.

Carefully lower the glovebox to the floor, and before disconnecting the airbag loom, ensure the ignition is off and the keys out. Do NOT turn the ignition on with the airbag switch disconnected as this will disable the whole airbag system, light the airbag warning light and will need VAGCOM to reset it. Now under the bonnet: If you release the bulkhead rubber that holds down the wiper scuttle, then lift up the passenger side corner of the scuttle there's the perfect spare grommet under there.

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This drops down behind the glovebox. Then cut off the end of the nipple on the grommet and poke a wire coathanger through. When you've located the other end in the footwell, tape the power cable to the engine side end and pull it through from the footwell. Don't try to pull it the other way as the grommet will come out with the cable.

Remove the footwell side trim (just metal clips), then prise up the door sill trim, again just clips, check for clips that have come away from the trim. Pull them out with

long nosed pliers & slide them back into the trim.

Now for the rear speaker panel. Remove the rear seat base by pushing it towards the rear of the car and lifting. Its hooked at the back as well, same process. Fold down the passenger side seat back. Starting at the base of thePage 3 of 16

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door pillar, pull the panel free, working your way up to the top of the panel. The panel is held on with metal clips and plastic poppers and is far easier to remove than the 8L version. However it is looped around the folding mechanism for the rear seats for some bizarre reason. You can either workaround the panel, or cut the stupid loop, or remove the folding seat backs. I usually cut it as it performs no function and is hidden from view. You will now be able to feed the power (and any RCA's if using an aftermarket HU) down the passenger side as there's quite a lot of room. Don't try using something ridiculous like 0 or 2 gauge cable as it just makes it impossible to route through the car and the benefits, if any, are minimal. Also as long as the RCA's are reasonable there's no reason to worry about running power and RCA's together, especially for a sub, I do it all the time and have never had any interference.If you are using the stock Audi HU then you just need to run the power cable.

If you are mounting the amp behind the rear speaker panel then you can use the chrome passenger seat belt runner for the ground/earth. Just unscrew the Allen bolt a little way, cut and splay the earth cable eyelet so it can slip in behind the runner and then tighten back up.

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Back under the bonnet, feed the remaining cable through to the battery as shown below:

Then along and up to the fuse panel beside the battery. If you bought my install kit then I included two nuts and a VAG 40amp fuse, so there is no need to mount a separate fuse, just bolt the fuse and the cable as shown below (BUT DONT DO IT YET!). Leave the fuse out until you have completed wiring the up the amp.

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Now for the sub Remove the parcel shelf, the carpet, the spare wheel and the foam tool thingy. Remove boot lip panel, it just pulls straight up and out. Removing the boot panel. Remove the visible Torx screw along the top of the boot panel. Flip out the interior light, unplug it and reinsert. The panel is held to the bodywork with 3 metal clips. One is on the side of the boot opening, the second is further along the top, and the last one is right at the back. The last one is the tricky one and I use a pry bar or big screwdriver to release it rather than risking tearing the panel. With the panel removed you now can gaze in wonder at the plastic box laughingly called a subwoofer. Remove the 3 visible 10mm bolts, unplug the connector and remove the sub, while being impressed by the sheer weight of the enclosure, be careful that a gust of wind doesnt blow it away!

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We now need to use the hacksaw and remove some metalwork. Carefully remove wiring loom running down the wheelarch seam. Then with the hacksaw remove the tabs on the wheelarch seam (shown below), cutting all the way down so you end up with an even seam as shown in the second pic.

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Then trim off the upper tabs as shown below and file off the rough edges:

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Release the rear light wiring loom and tuck it away in the void, then it is advisable to Dynamat the area

Fitting the AMSS Before you install the AMSS, some small modifications are needed to your A3. You should have the following view:

Before fitting the AMSS enclosure youll want to run the RCA adapter loom from the top of the Bose amp behind the drivers side boot panel, underneath the boot sill (the blue cable shown above & below) and round the back of the sub to the amp (depending on amp location).

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Finally we can fit the AMSS enclosure. Fit the sub wiring to the terminal posts before fitting and feed the wiring round the back out the way to where the amp will be mounted. Carefully slide the enclosure into position. The groove on the bottom sits over the seam on the boot floor. It should be quite a snug fit.

Check that the groove is engaged with the bottom seam. Push the top of the enclosure back as far as it will go. If its positioned correctly it will feel quite solid. Then align the supplied brackets in the positions shown below, mark with a pencil and screw them to the enclosure with the supplied screws. A 2mm pilot hole makes it easier. Then using a 3mm metal drill bit drill a hole in the bodywork for the upper left bracket. Screw in position using the self tapping screw supplied. For the right lower bracket use a 5mm drill for the nut & bolt supplied. When marking/drilling these holes keep pressure on the top of the sub so it is a far back as possible. This prevents the sub fouling on the boot trim panel when refitted.

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With the brackets tightened the sub should be rock solid, you should be able to rock the car by rocking the sub enclosure. This is vital for it to perform properly. If its wobbly then it is not correctly fitted.

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Wiring up the amp Before fitting the amp you need to wire it up and test. Connect the power and earth cables. Then connect the RCAs, remote on and sub speaker cable.

At the Bose amp release the lock on the Bose connector and unwrap the tape holding the big bunch of cables together.

Identify the wires from the diagram below and attach the wire taps. Don't rely on the cover on the tap to push the skinny wires into the tap, I always use a stanley knife to push the wire into the tap, all the way down in order toPage 12 of 16

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guarantee a good connection. Then test the connection with a multimeter to ensure everything is making contact before putting it all back.

With the taps tested and continuity verified, then plug the Bose connector back into the Bose amp and replace the boot panel. Back under the bonnet, fit the fuse for the new amps power cable. Refit the glovebox remembering to plug the airbag switch back in. Turn on the HU and ensure the sub and amp are working. Check both left & right channels are working by fading to rear and then using the balance to go from left to right. The sub should still play on full left & full right. You may want to leave the amp out for a while while you get the levels sorted. This level is quite critical especially if you dont have a non fading sub pre-out. If you are using the original Audi head unit you need to ensure you get the gain right before installing the amp permanently.

Youll need to extract the amp from the stock Tupperware sub and keep it in the system to power the rears. Normally I wouldnt bother and just fit a 4 channel Alpine, but if you want the amp to fit behind the rear speaker panel, then the smaller 2 channel T500 or T505 makes life a lot easier. The stock amp can just be zip tied to the bodywork behind the boot panel, with any exposed wiring taped off. Please ensure you isolate the unused speaker connections to the old OEM sub as these will still be live. More info to follow when Ive done a non Bose install. On a Concert/Symphony/RNS-e HU, you want the right amount of bass with the bass on the HU set to 2 (yes thats minus 2). This allows you to drive the cabin speakers harder without distortion, as they are no longer handling any significant bass, and gives you some head room if you get a CD that has very little bass on it. Youre only control of the level of bass coming from the sub is to use the bass control on the head unit, you can also fade the rears but this will obviously fade the rear speakers as well as the sub, so ideally you want to leave this setting on zero. I found the best gain settings were achieved by using a very bassy CD, setting the head unit to minus 4 bass, and turning the volume up to fairly loud. Then set the gain on the sub amp so that the sub is on the limit before distorting. Usually this requires the gain to be near max setting, about 90% using an Alpine MRVT500 or 505, because the pre-out signal from the OEM head unit is very weak. With everything working and adjusted we can fit the amp

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Amp Location For a true stealth install the power amp can be located behind the nearside speaker panel. This will provide a completely hidden and secure install. The internal panel will have to be cut in order to make room for the amp, but this is completely hidden with the speaker panel in place and no one will ever know. With the rear speaker panel removed, remove the foam bolsters from up inside the outer wing and internal panel and the ones at the bottom. Mark a line from the curved part of the internal panel, straight along and then down as shown below, to form a fairly square square. Now for the scary bit. This is far easier to do using a reciprocal saw with a long metal cutting blade. Cut along the line across then down to create the hole shown below, but please be very careful as if the blade snags it could puncture the outer bodywork:

I like to use some Dynamat on the inside of the outer panel to avoid scraping the amp on the outer panel. I also dynamat the edges that have been cut. Wrap electrical tape around all the connections on the amp just as a safeguard against shorting anything out while moving the amp about, or better still remove the fuse at this point! Temporarily tape up the gaps on the underside of the amp to prevent any swarf getting into it when drilling. With the underside of the amp facing you lower the amp into the lower void and then once inside the void, between the outer and inner panels, it can be raised up into position. Raise the amp as far up as possible and reinstate the two foam pads underneath. This gives the amp something to rest on while youre attaching it to the bodywork. Line up the amp flanges with the bodywork ensuring that you can get a finger or spanner to the back of the hole you are about to drill.Page 15 of 16

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I managed to use an existing hole on the flange of the amp (top right) but had to drill both the bodywork and the flange to secure a bracket on the left side of the amp shown below. This really has to have a bracket as the inner skin has a lip on it.

With the amp firmly in position test everything still works correctly before the rear speaker panel is refitted. Zip tie all new cabling securely before refitting the panels. The sill trim and footwell trim can then be refitted and then finally the boot trim. Retest everything and enjoy the transformation! Any Problems give me a call on 07748-391357 Cheers, Andy Mac