I am having a bit of buyers remorse now. IF I decide to have the ARP hardware installed it will mean a 3-4 week wait with the machine shop and cost me about $300. My cylinder head is not done yet (as of last check-in) so it's not like I don't have the time, I just wanted to be done and not have the responsibility of doing the physical assembly. Plus I was going to have it cleaned at a redi-strip to bring it to bare metal.

Is there anything I have to know about disassembly other than keep all pistons, main caps, and other stuff in order, facing the installed direction etc?

I am still considering not doing the studs and just running with it, but I know I will regret it later just for peace of mind. It's "only" $300 in the end I guess.

Earlier in the thread I lamented my disappointment with DIYautotune in regards to not supporting all the standard ECU outputs and not supporting the available 22 and 26 position connectors on the stock harness side of the MSpnpPro. Well, it turns out that my complaints are not completely warranted because it turns out the 22position connector has many of the same pin outs that the Aux connector. This simplifies matters incredibly. I will also be soldering jumpers on the bottom side of the MSpnp from my desired out puts to the vehicle harness connectors and pins that correspond with my desired function when applicable. For example, I want to make the VCTS solenoid functional in order to be able to use it as a VICS control solenoid in future builds.

In the above image, red means DO NOT USE the particular input on the 22 pin connector as the signal is being brought in or output via a different pin. This applies to anyone using my instructions below in post 517.
Medium Blue means the pin will be used on the 22pos connector in my particular install.
Aqua means the input or output is available but unplanned at this point in my install.

If I want to bring in flex fuel directly I need to move where my clutch signal comes in. This means I have to modify my stock harness... Not going to happen. It is looking more and more likely like I will be selling this box for one built by Rev.

If I want to bring in flex fuel directly I need to move where my clutch signal comes in. This means I have to modify my stock harness... Not going to happen. It is looking more and more likely like I will be selling this box for one built by Rev.

What do you mean bring in directly? Also why do you have to move the clutch signal?

What do you mean bring in directly? Also why do you have to move the clutch signal?

If I want to run flex fuel to my MSpnpPro, I need to do it via the "Digital Switched IN 1" input, but that is wired to clutch, so I would have to move clutch to "Digital Switched IN 2". The problem is that this is not something that can be done internaly to the megasquirt as best I can tell. Unless I am mistaken of course.

If I want to run flex fuel to my MSpnpPro, I need to do it via the "Digital Switched IN 1" input, but that is wired to clutch, so I would have to move clutch to "Digital Switched IN 2". The problem is that this is not something that can be done internaly to the megasquirt as best I can tell. Unless I am mistaken of course.

Why does flex fuel need to be on "Digital Switched IN1" input? Why can't you put it on "DS IN2"?

I haven't played with flex fuel or used a PNPPro so I have not done any real searching on that. But I would assume you could reconfigure most of that in software.

Worst case, you can just pop the pin out of the stock harness connector and move it. Easy to do, easy to reverse. Then just grab some extra wires and pins from a junk yard car with the same connector.

True, but when it comes time to swap back to stock ecu for OBD compliance, I will have to switch back. It's frustrating. Why couldn't they have just used Digital Switched In 2 for the clutch from the start? Unless there is a real hardware reason why, it is an oversight that makes their ecu less flexible.

there is a 122pin connector that is soldered into a header on the MSPnP board. I'll take pics tonight.

i am considering desoldering the pin that connects the clutch pin from the header and jumping an appropriate flex fuel wire into the DSIN1. From there I can jump the clutch signal back to DSIN2 internally.

Connector 5 Pin ‘B’ (Injector E) to connector 2 pin ’N’ (VTSC Control)
(DOUBLE CHECK MY WORK, I think I see an error but I don't have access to the ECU at the moment)

Remove jumper on J6. This allows Pin 'N' on the aux connector to be used for flex fuel. This is the ONLY input that is compatible with flex fuel so getting clutch off of this input was vital in allowing me to run flex fuel.

I am trying to decide wither or not I start soldering jumpers between the 22pos and 26pos sections of the 122pos connector header. Reason being, the 22pos plugs are on their way from Allied Electronics but I have 26pos plugs on hand already. On one hand, it will work. On the other, I am more at risk for solder points breaking and causing problems in the future. I am not sure if I am comfortable with that possibility. I am thinking that maybe I will wait but run my wires this weekend. I can always crimp on the ends to the wires that are important and plug them manually into the ECU for testing. So, if things go well, can start my car this weekend but not finish the install until the connectors arrive.

I still have to figure out:
- how/where I will mount my relays and power supply for gauges and other dash related power needs
- How I am going to route my canbus wiring for gauges and inputs.
- Finalize the remainder of my underhood wiring.

On another note, my engine machine work is done and it's ready to be picked up. I need to strip off the old engine paint as the previous owner painted it before it was sent in for hot-tank, and frankly I am not ready to build up that block so it will stay at the machine shop until next week sometime. On that project I need to:
- source "dowels" or whatever they call them for the trans housing and anything on the top of the block that may help locate the head.
- identify proper length bolts to hold the motor onto the engine stand and buy them. I have two, but some of them need to be longer. Ace hardware didn't have them.
- identify any other random parts that I may need to assemble my motor.
- make a final decision on whether or not to install oil squirters.
- drill and tap the oil pan for oil temperature sensor.
- strip/clean oil pan
- build motor

I am not in a huge hurry to build motor because the head isn't done yet, but it will be nice to have the motor done and built for whenever I am ready to swap. I plan on tuning the current motor with the new ECU and spark system to verify it all works out before I do the swap. Plus, I may spend some time/money on cooling because the new motor was built to run an oil cooler.