Thursday, May 31, 2012

About two grams! This is the weight of the polyphenols (i.e. tannins and anthocyanins in a liter of red wine, to be precise a liter of Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra). This minimal amount was measured via a system presented by Peter Godden (Head of the Australian Wine Research Institute) at the meeting on polyphenols and wine held in Montespertoli on Tuesday May 29.

In these two grams, this apparently minimal amount (by comparison, a liter of wine will contain between 850 and 900 grams of water), are concentrated the efforts of researchers and winemakers across the globe. The well-organized Montespertoli meeting, rightly called for by ISVEA with the assistance of Vinidea, was attended by people from Australia, France, Spain, and of course Italy.

And let's return to our weighty two grams of tannins and anthocyanins, a tiny volume that makes the difference between a quaffing wine and a great red worthy of long aging.

It made me smile to hear every speaker begin by saying, "We don't know much about tannins and anthocyanins," and then reel off figures and facts that show much more is now known than was a few years ago.

I am certainly not capable of explaining the technical aspects of tannins, nor do I want to bore you with reams of words: I will therefore use examples to try to explain what's new in the "Wonderful world of Polyphenols."

Think of the foundations of the skyscraper that is wine: this foundation is made up of blocks of varying sizes. We know the external measurements of the foundations, but not those of the blocks. The present studies aim to disassemble the foundation, take each block, measure it, see what kind of stone it is, and then use it in the reconstruction of the skyscraper that is wine, or better yet a number of different skyscrapers that are wine, each suited to a different set of circumstances.

Exiting the metaphor, we now know many things about tannins and anthocyanins as a group, but do not know them individually and do not yet know if approaching them in one way as opposed to another is correct or wrong. Indeed (and I know I'm being obvious), Merlot differs from Nebbiolo, which differs from Barbera, and it from Monastrell, and it from Pinot Noir, and it from Cabernet Sauvignon, and it from Syrah: each exhibits differing concentrations of tannins and anthocyanins. In addition, the various varietals grow in differing terroirs, climates, and are pruned differently, and this increases the differences.

Even if the grapes naturally contain our "two grams of glory," their presence, even in larger quantities, does not automatically mean they will find their way into the wine without creating problems. One of the major problems with tannins and anthocyanins is in fact their solubility, in other words how to get them from the skins to the wine without loosing them along the way. Because huge amounts are lost on the way!

The state of the art is that of being able to identify and measure them (according to Hélène Fulcrand, Stefano Ferrari and Peter Godden). The next step is to find the best way to get the polyphenols to ripen fully at the same rate as the grapes, notes Professor Palliotti, and then, say Encarnación Gomez-Plaza and Antonella Bosso, to convey them "without loss" and in stable form to the wine. Despite advances in each of these phases, we have much more to discover. In short, we've discovered Shangri La, but it must be explored and to do so we'll need many things: measuring equipment, data classification, field tests and experiments.
As the meeting continued, with talk after talk being optimistic about the future, I felt sadly happy.

Happy because I understood (despite my abysmal grades in Chemistry) that Science was on the right track, and will soon be able to help provide better wines for everyone.

Sadly because with all these measurements, tests, and retests, the old incorrigible wine bohemian in me began to fell that we may never really understand the true nature of polyphenols, that spark that causes them to form and transforms them from something commonplace into something great and perhaps unique, the foundation of absolute quality. In other words, we may never completely understand the essence of a great wine. We may never understand why a given wine is great despite being made other than the textbook way. Faced with important people (in addition to those already mentioned, Patrick Vuchot, Giuseppe Arfelli, and Michel Jourdes), and intelligent presentations and discussions of experiences, I thought, with a sad smile, that they mystery of a great wine (Alas? Fortunately?) may never be revealed.

Several years ago I went to a presentation organized by the Viticoltori dell'Acquese, the cooperative winery of Aqui Terme. It was late fall and the event was late in the afternoon, by which time banks of fog were rising and thickening among the trees as the light fell; I wondered what I had gotten myself into as I drove slowly through the flatlands of Alessandria, hoping I wouldn't miss a sign for Sezzadio.

I didn't, and eventually reached a large, rather forbidding farm complex. Imagine my surprise when I got out of the car, walked around the building, and beheld a spectacular Romanesque basilica!

Santa Giustina was founded, legends say, in the early 700s by Liutprando, a devout Lombard King who stopped at the site to take a nap, setting the reliquary with Santa Giustina's remains that he always carried with him on the bough of a tree. He awoke to find it dancing in the branches just out of reach, and decided that the Saint was telling him she wanted a church in that spot. So he gave the orders, and a Paleochristian church was built.

Santa Giustina subsequently became an important outpost of the Benedictines; the original church, which has elegant floor mosaics of the kind one also finds in Rome, became the crypt of their church, which is a classic Romanesque basilica with a central nave flanked by two aisles, a transept that's higher than the nave, and three apses.

The monastery changed hands several times over the centuries, and following the Napoleonic suppression of 1810 the church was transformed into a grain elevator. In 1863 it was bought by Senator Angelo Frascara, and when he began stripping away the whitewash (applied in the 1600s), in 1912, he found a fragments of an Annunciation in the left apse, and a beautiful XV century fresco cycle with scenes of Christ's passion and the Last Judgment in the central apse. A number of the columns of the nave are also decorated, with a black-and-white checkerboard pattern; many of the black squares have fascinating graffiti scratched into them, some of which might even be Renaissance in age.

The Senator also transformed part of the monastic complex into an extremely elegant villa with beautiful Romantic gardens, which is now used to host conventions, wedding receptions and so on. Visitors to the church are welcome, and if you call ahead you'll probably also be able to wander the grounds and perhaps visit the public sections of the villa. For further information see http://www.villabadia.com

To reach Santa Giustina, take the A 22 highway to the Alessandria Sud exit, and then follow signs for Acqui until you reach the turnoff for Sezzadio (to the right); you'll also see signs for the Abbazia. It's about 20 km from the A 22.

It's difficult to imagine a more unexpected pretty stopping place, and I am grateful to the Viticoltori deall'Acquese for introducing me to it.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

As I said last year, Bardolino is one of the finest quaffing wines there is: welcoming ruby that brings life to the table, and (ideally) bright fruit supported by lively acidity and deft light tannins, a combination that makes for an extremely refreshing wine well suited to hearty soups or pasta dishes, quickly grilled or fried meats, light stews, and casseroles and the like. In short, versatile, and a fine choice for day-to-day drinking.

And then there's Bardolino Chiaretto, an eminently drinkable rosè made from the same varietals -- Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara -- used to make Bardolino (and Valpolicella). Again very nice, and a number of producers make it in both still and sparkling versions, both of which are delightfully refreshing.

This year we tasted the 2011 vintage, which was to be honest, difficult: very cool and quite wet through mid August, at which point it suddenly became searingly hot and remained so until well after the end of the harvest -- looking a little ways back in time, it's as if Mother Nature jumped from 2002 to 2003 in the middle of August. Some producers were fortunate, in that their vines successfully weathered the transition from one extreme to the other, producing wines that are pleasant, though not as graceful as wines from more uniform summer conditions, while others were less so, in that their vines balked, producing green tannins and brambly accents coupled with considerable alcohol and a general lack of balance.

Because of this, the 2011 vintage should be approached with a degree of caution, and before purchasing a case (Bardolino is one of those wines that tends to go fast, especially if you serve it at a cookout or picnic with friends) you should try it. Since there is a fair amount of variability between Chiaretto and Bardolino this year, you should try both before buying more than a couple of bottles of each.

Due to time constraints, I tasted all of the Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante, all of the Bardolino, and then turned my attention to the still Bardolino Chiaretto, which I tasted most of.

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino DOC 2011Lively ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with hydrocarbons-laced red berry fruit supported by some spice and as it opens slight candied accents. On the palate it's light and thin, with moderate berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and rather splintery tannins that flow into a splintery finish. It's tart and somewhat lacking in fruit, with splintery tannins emerging strongly.1 star

Bergamini Iride Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Bright rose petal pink with brilliant rosy reflections and pink rim; fine perlage. The bouquet is dusky with mineral accents more than fruit and some greenish spice. On the palate it's rather bitter, with moderate minerality and some brambly bitter fruit supported by peppery accents from the sparkle, that continue at length in the finish, which is rather savory.1 star

Bergamini Colline di Cotà Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Brilliant rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, in a greenish key, with brambles and some berry fruit supported by brambly grapefruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively strawberry laced grapefruit fruit supported by acidity that has hints of scalded milk and by a fair amount of warmth with underlying savory accents, and while it sounds odd it works well, and is rather zesty. A pleasant summer wine.2 stars

Bergamini Colline di Cotà Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is muted, with slight mentholated accents and some spice. On the palate it's rather bitter, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by greenish tannins that have a dusky mineral burr and a fair amount of warmth, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish. I'd have liked more brightness and richness to the fruit, which is eclipsed by the tannins.1 star

Cà Bottura Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Slightly salmonate pink with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim; fine white perlage. The bouquet is greenish, with vegetal spice mingled with some citron, peppery notes, bitter minerality, and underlying hints of sweetness and butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with considerable minerality and mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long rather bitter finish. It's more of a true brut than some, and if you like the style, which is fairly direct in a mineral key, it will be quite nice with foods at table. Scrappy, and slightly standoffish.2 stars

Cà Bottura Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with greenish vegetal accents mingled with some strawberry fruit and slight hints of grapefruit and some spice with hints of gunflint. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish grapefruit fruit and acidity supported by slightly bitter gunflint minerality that flows into a fairly mineral finish. Pleasant in a bright rather deft key, and will be quite refreshing on a summer day.2 stars

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale rose petal pink with salmon reflections and abundant fairly fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter minerality and some grapefruit supported by slight mentholated accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, in a slightly sweetish key, with grapefruit supported by some mineral acieity and peppery accents from the sparkle, as well as considerable sea salt. Pleasant and will be quite versatile, working well as a picnic or cookout wine, and also something to sip in the evening if you want something fairly simple, and not sweet.2 stars

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Barrel sampleRose petal pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather candied with some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright vegetal slightly candied red berry fruit supported by spice and by some greenish peppery accents. It's promising, and displays more verve than many of the others.

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by warmth and heather, with slight underlying sandalwood and hints of petroleum. On the palate it's ample, with rather dusky cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a brooding slightly sandalwood laced burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish; there isn't much acidity but the bitter accent of the tannins step in nicely, and the overall impression is harmonious.2 stars

Cantina Castelnuovo del Garda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with candied citrus and caramel mingled with a certain airiness. On the palate it's more aggressive than the nose suggests due to a powerful peppery sparkle, while there's more minerality than fruit, with underlying bitterness. It's a fairly direct wine that will be quite refreshing when well chilled.1 star

Cantina Castelnuovo del Garda Castelnuovo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011 Pale rose petal pink with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense with candied fruit mingled with some greenish accents and hints of butterscotch sweetness; as it opens the greenish gunflint becomes more intense. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with bitter minerality more than fruit, and flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish that, given the nose, is a bit unexpected. 1 star

Cantina Castelnuovo del Garda Bardolino DOC 2011Lively pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with berry fruit supported by candied cherry notes and some greenish accents; there's also heather and some hints of chalk. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky almost graphite shaving burr and flow into a fairly bitter finish; the wine revolves primarily around tannins and bitterness, and in this style works well. You have to like the style, however; if you prefer more fruit it won't work as well for you.2 stars. Cantina Castelnuovo del Garda Cà Vegar Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Slightly deeper cherry ruby than the vino base, with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with candied cherry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and some vegetal notes; it's richer than the base and sweeter too. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright slightly sweet sandalwood laced cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a fairly bitter fruit laced finish with echoes of the sandalwood present at the outset. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and smooth enough and fruit driven enough to be drink by the glass if you do like a slight tannic underpinning.2 stars

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2011Pale rose pink with brilliant rosy reflections and white rim; the perlage is fine. The bouquet is greenish, with bitter minerality and some peppery spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, thanks to the sparkle, with moderately intense bitter minerality supporting cut delicious apple fruit that flows into a rather pungent savory finish that gains balance from slight underlying dried apple sweetness. It's quite approachable, in a slightly more brooding key, and will be a pleasant summer wine.1 star

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011 Bright rosy pink with brilliant reflections. the bouquet is greenish, with some vegetal notes and a fair amount of spice mingled with some red berry fruit and some greenish vegetal laced grapefruit. On the palate it's ample and savory, with fairly bright mineral acidity and some grapefruit fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some gunflint accents and flows into a fairly long rather bitter gunflint laced finish. It shows more verve than many, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with summer foods.2 stars

Casaretti Bardolino Classico 2011Lively pinkish ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intrnse with some berry fruit and slight smoky accents mingled with greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's light and bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that become drier than expected and flow into a decidedly dry tannic finish that eclipses the fruit. It's fairly aggressive, and because of the tannins will work well with fattier meats off the grill or fried meats and vegetables, and might be a good bet with a cheesy pizza. Expect it to go quickly2 stars

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2011Brilliant salmon with golden and salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with some greenish notes and slight spice. It's rather direct. The palate reflects the nose, with minerality more than fruit supported by sparkle and some mineral acidity, which flows into a fairly peppery finish with some cut apple accents as well. Direct, a simple wine that is easy to drink.1 star

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with some greenish accents and minerality, but not much fruit; there are some brambles and some heather however. On the palate it's ample, with gunflint and minerality more than fruit, flowing into a fairly long fairly bitter gunflint mineral finish with mineral acidity that gradually emerges, and that I found interesting. I'd have liked more richness of fruit, but it is much more alive than many of the 2011 wines.2 stars

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Classico 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with slight smoky sandalwood mingled with red berry fruit and some berry fruit acidity. Brash. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than I expected, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by mentholated vegetal accents and smooth tannins that have slight sandalwood notes to them, and by a degree of sweetness that confers spicy roundness and something exotic in a fruit driven key to the wine. If you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer wines that are tighter and more aggressive it will work less well. 2 stars

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC This is a non vintage Metodo Classico, disgorged 2012Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with strawberry blossoms mingled with minerality and delicate spice, and also some underlying grassy vegetal notes, with hints of caramel and gunflint as well. Pleasant, On the palate it's pleasant, with bright savory strawberry fruit supported by peppery sparkle and some mineral acidity that has crisp apple accents, and flows into a long savory finish with some peppery notes and underlying bitterness as well. It displays greater dexterity than the other wines, and this is a result of its being a metodo classico. 2 stars

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011 DOC Lively pink salmon with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal accents and some cut apple mingled with slight vegetal notes and some acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with rather languid raspberry fruit supported by gunflint laced mineral acidity and tannins that have a slight gunflint burr and flow into a fairly long bitter berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite refreshing and will be very pleasant at a cookout or with summer foods. 2 stars

Costadoro Bardolino Classico 2011 DOC CostadoroLively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rather exotic spice -- hints of cumin and nutmeg -- supporting berry fruit and slight mentholated accents that bring to mind scrub pines on a beach; as it opens the spice gives way to red blossoms. On the palate it's bright, with considerable sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit aicidty and by tannins that have fairly intense bitter sandalwood accents and flow into a rather long bitter fruit laced finish. Powerful, and fairly aggressive; if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably, and even if you prefer softer fruit wines you will find it works very well with foods. It stands out.2 stars

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight peppery notes. On the palate it's not as well defined as some, with minerality and bitterness working with peppery notes form the sparkle, which fades into a bitter finish with some cut apple crispness. It's direct and up front. 1 star

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Classico Marogne DOC 2011 Barrel sample Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky with some sandalwood and slight hazelnut mingled with savory accents. On the palate it's brighter, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery with a greenish burr, and flow into a fairly long greenish tannic finish. It's up in the air, but the palate is promising.

F.lli Zeni Vigne Alte Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011. Pale salmon with brilliant slightly pinkish salmon reflections. The bouquet is is moderately intense, with grapefruit mingled with some greenish vegetal accents and slight gunflint. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with moderately intense rather languid white berry fruit supported by some minerality and moderate acidity that flow into a fairly clean mineral finish. I'd have liked more verve than it displayed.1 star

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Classico Vigne Alte DOC 2011. Barrel sample Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly brambly berry fruit supported by some minerality. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, and not quite as bright as the base wine, though this is in part because the tannins are splinterier. We will see what it does with time. .

Frezza Chiarezza Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon and gold reflections and onionskin nail, fine perlage. The bouquet is mineral with slight hints grapefruit and some smoky notes. On the palate it's sweeter than one might have expected from the nose, with crisp slightly dried apple fruit supported by peppery sparkle and some sweetness, that flows into a fairly long fairly sweet finish. Direct.1 star

Frezza Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Barrel sample Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some grapefruit and slight floral accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with fairly bright grapefruit fruit supported by tannins that have dusky gunflint accents, and some savory notes.

Frezza Bardolino DOC 2011Barrel sampleLively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish berry fruit laced with sandalwood and some balsamic accents with hints of stable straw as well, which give way to mentholated notes as it opens. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderate berry fruit supported by sour mineral acidity and by tannins that have sandalwood accents and some hints of animal tang to them, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the wine, and the tannins are also quite drying in the finish.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Fior di Rosa Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rose blossoms and some strawberry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and pleasant minerality. On the palate it's moderately sweet, with fairly rich mineral laced white fruit supported by bitter minerality and peppery sparkle, which flow into a fairly long bitter finish. Quite approachable and will be a nice picnic or cookout wine, and pleasant to sip on a summer evening when you want simple dry sparkling wine. 2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011 Rose with brilliant rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with raspberry fruit supported by some greenish acidity and some underlying gunflint. On the palate it's rather languid, with pleasant raspberry fruit supported by strawberry raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm slightly sour finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with summer foods.2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and rather chemical, with hydrocarbons mingled with greenish notes, and little berry fruit -- what there is is overshadowed by the hydrocarbons. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit that gives way to bitterness more than tannins, though there are some of them too. Not much acidity. Tried a second bottle and it was the same.1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi Tacchetto Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with rich red berry fruit laced with greenish vegetal accents and some cassis with some underbrush as well and a mentholated underpinning. It follows a different path than most of the wines. On the palate it's ample, with soft cherry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a bitter greenish underpinning, flowing into a fairly long rather green finish with peppery underpinning. The tannins in the finish blanket the fruit, making the wine seem drier than it might have, and make it a wine better suited to fattier meats that will balance this aggressiveness. I'd have liked more richness overtones the fruit, which gives way to the other elements.1 star

Il Pignetto Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale rose with brilliant rosy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with some minerality and slight bramble mingled with bitterness and slight pungency. On the palate it's bright, with mineral laced grapefruit supported by sparkle and bitter mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish. Quite approachable in a somewhat more mineral key, and will be quite pleasant as an aperitif. It grew on me.2 stars

La Prebenda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim, fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather vegetal with some smoky brambly accents mingled with savory notes. On the palate it's ample and fairly bitter, with bitterness and minerality leading the way more than fruit, and flows into a fairly long bitter finish. 1 star

Le Tende Voluttà Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Brilliant rose petal pink with electric pink reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with strawberry blossoms and some red berry fruit supported by fairly intense bitter almost smoky minerality. On the palate it's sweeter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense minerality and spice more than fruit, and it flows into a fairly bitter finish. It's somewhat more brooding than some, and I'd have liked a little more brightness to the acidity.1 star

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pinkish with brilliant reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with herbal notes and some spice mingled with greenish savory notes. On the palate it's ample and rather mineral at the outset, resolving into fairly direct rather savory grapefruit acidity, which flows into a fairly long grapefruit laced finish with slight mineral underpinning. It's fairly zesty, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with fried fish or white meats.2 stars

Le Tende Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and white rim; it's one of the paler wines poured. The bouquet is moderately ripe with candied fruit and some spice mingled with some greenish accents. On the palate it's a little brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry red berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a bitter splintery greenish almost graphite shaving underpinning and flow into a fairly long dusky ripe berry fruit fishing with brooding greenish accents.2 stars

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Brilliant pink with pinkish and golden reflections, and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with strawberry fruit mingled with some grapefruit acidity and slight brambly accents. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich strawberry grapefruit fruit supported by peppery sparkle and some underlying mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long rather bitter mineral finish. Deft, and will drink nicely with foods, in addition to being a pleasant summer aperitif.2 stars

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish spice and slight heather. On the palate it's ample, with minerality more than fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity; it has a rather languid soft feel to it.1 star

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Pale cherry ruby with brownish reflections and electric ruby highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mentholated accents and some berry fruit supported by slight spice. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish splintery burr with some scalded milk accents, and flow into a warm finish. It's a bit disjointed, and I'd have liked greater richness of fruit.1 star

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale rose petal pink with brilliant reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with grapefruit and strawberry acidity supported by some gunflint minerality. On the palate it's deft in a sweetish rather mineral key, with minerality more than fruit supported by slight peppery sparkle and some sweetness, which flow into a fairly sweet peppery finish. Quite direct, and an easy to drink wine that will be nice as an aperitif or at poolside, and could also be nice if you want something bubbly, fairly simple, and not too sweet.2 stars

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino DOC 2011Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, of the nobody home variety. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly greenish burr and flow into a fairly long greenish bitter finish. It's overly green for my tastes.1 star

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with some grapefruit and delicate spice, and underlying cut apple bitterness. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with caramel laced bitterness and minerality more than fruit, and fairly bright mineral acidity that gains verve from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long bitter finish. It's up front, and fairly direct; I'd have liked better definition.1 star

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slight berry fruit and hints of vegetal notes that increases in intensity, gaining candied accents, with swishing. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense quite ripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderate savory acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and some sandalwood accents, and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more verve and definition to the tannic structure, though this is in part the ripeness of the grapes, which softened the tannins.1 star

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Rose petal pink with brilliant reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strawberry and raspberry acidity mingled with some brambles and dusky greenish accents. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly intense mineral laced grapefruit - raspberry fruit supported by fairly intense bitter mineral acidity and by peppery spice from sparkle that flow into a fairly long savory peppery finish. Pleasant, displaying considerable verve, and will be a nice aperitif or picnic wine.2 stars

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright greenish strawberry raspberry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and by pleasant spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright strawberry fruit supported by deft greenish accents and some underlying spice and grapefruit acidity, which flow into a fairly long slightly greenish vegetal finish. It's a bit more direct than I expected on the palate, and quite up front.1 star

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale ruby with black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights; the rim is pinkish. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced by considerable gunflint and some graphite shaving bitterness; it brings to mind a rock in a bowl of cherries, whacked by a hammer. On the palate it's ample, with rather dusky bitter berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a fairly long greenish tannic finish. More, and richer fruit would have been nice.1 star

Roeno Matì Rosè Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Salmon with brilliant reflections, a mix of salmon and gold, and fine perlage. The bouquet is sweetish and rather pungent, with cut apple and some greenish accents mingled with some vegetal notes. On the palate it's more mineral than I expected, with considerable peppery sparkle and mineral acidity, while the fruit is strawberry with some cut apple, and it flows into a fairly long rather bitter decidedly savory finish. Pleasant as an aperitif or with picnics and cookouts during the summer mo9nths, and it grew upon me.2 stars

Tre Colline Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011 Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim, fine perlage. The bouquet is rather pungent with smoky accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter with considerable minerality and peppery spice more than fruit, flows into a dusky mineral finish.1 star

Tre Colline Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Pale pinkish ruby with brownish black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights, white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather warm, with jammy cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity -- almost raspberry -- and some brambly greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with ively sour raspberry fruit supported by fairly bright raspberry acidity with some greenish accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather zesty key, and will work quite well with summer foods.2 stars

Valetti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Pale salmon that is tending towards onionskin, with pink reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with hints of caramel and some red fruit blossoms with slight underlying mineral spice and pleasing sweetness with hints of yellow peach. On the palate it's ample and rather mineral with some cut apple fruit that gains peppery spice from the sparkle, and carries into a fairly long savory mineral finish in which salt gradually emerges as the pepper fades, carrying to the end. It's graceful, and will be quite refreshing on a hot summer day. Or during the cooler months, as an aperitif.2 stars

Valetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Lively rose petal pink with brilliant pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some blossoms and slight grapefruit supported by slight spice. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense grapefruit fruit supported by tannins that have a slight gunflint burr and flow into a fairly long warm bitter mineral finish. It's peasant, though not with as much verve as I might have hoped.2 stars

Valetti Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant berry fruit supported by elegant mentholated accents and some spice. Enjoyable. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and flow into a long fairly rich sour cherry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with summer foods, ranging from grilled meats and fried foods to the fixings of a cookout or picnic. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2011Fairly bright salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and slight eucalyptus supported by some bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I expected from the nose, with fairly intense bitter minerality that gains fullness from peppery sparkle, and flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. It revolves more around minerality than fruit, and well chilled will be refreshing on a summer evening.1 star

Vigneti Villabella Vigna Morlongo Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by hints of wet paper, a result of recent bottling. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish mineral accents, while the tannins have a fairly long dusky vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. Assuming the nose follows the palate it will be pleasant by the time the summer rolls around. Scoring it for what it is today would likely be misleading.

Aldo Adami Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some greenish vegetal accents and slight pineapple fruit supported by dusky notes; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's fairly direct, with greenish mineral laced white fruit supported by some mineral acidity, which flow into a moderately long rather mineral finish. I'd have liked more depth and richness to the fruit.1 star

Aldo Adami Bardolino DOC 2011 Pale rosy ruby, it's almost as light as some of the Chiaretti. The bouquet is moderately intense with red berry fruit supported by some sour accents and slight spice. And as it opens hints of candied cherry. On the palate it's a red wine, with fairly rich raspberry cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit minerality and tannins that have a warm bitter burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and thanks to the tannins will be nice with cookout foods and similar, also fried meats and vegetables.2 stars

Aldegheri Villa Cariola Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pale salmon with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and dusky gunflint. Not much fruit. On the palate it's more languid than the nose suggests, with mineral laced white fruit that gains fullness from glycerin, and flows into a fairly long rather bitter finish. Lack verve, and has more baby fat than I like in a teen.1 star

Aldegheri Villa Cariola Bardolino DOC 2011Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm slightly sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample and a bit softer than I had expected from the nose, with moderately intense sour strawberry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are rather blocky with a spicy underpinning, that flows into a dry almost peppery finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit.1 star

Bertoldi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Bright pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is sweetish, with red berry fruit supported by some caramel sweetness and by delicate mentholated accents. On the palate it's quite direct, with bright greenish raspberry fruit supported by savory mineral and greenish accents that lead into a fairly savory finish with lasting bitter undercurrents.1 star

Bertoldi Terra Rossa Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by slight candied accents and hints of heather. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit laced with raspberry acidity and supported by tannins that have a rather strident greenness to them, and make the wine rather aggressive, while the finish is fruit laced with tannic underpinning, and distinctly savory. It does have pleasing brightness, while the briskness of the tannins will make it a good companion to fattier meats off the grill or fried foods. It's not for sipping by the glass. 2 stars

Bolla Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some greenish accents and a slight smoky bitter pungency that gives way to heather and sea salt. On the palate it's fairly direct, with raspberry strawberry fruit supported by greenish accents and minerality that flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish. Up front, and quite simple, I might have liked a little more depth and brightness, which would have brought more verve.1 star

Bolla Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slight savory accents and hints of red berry fruit. On the palate it's bitter, with moderate rather generic fruit and some sea salt acidity supported by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's past brooding and into glowering.1 star

Bondi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011Pale slightly salmonate pink with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather greenish, with minerality and a certain pungency mingled with chalky minerality. On the palate it's a little brighter than the nose suggested, with red fruit that is still languid, but is supported at the outset by moderate acidity and spice that has a slight peppery sparkle to it, and flows into a rather bitter finish that settles some.1 star

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2010This is a 2010, it's lively salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather mineral with some greenish grapefruit acidity and spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively grape fruit supported by slightly dusky gunflint minerality that flows into a fairly long flinty finish. Zesty, and though it is a bit older it has a fresh vibrancy many of the 2011 wines lack. 2 stars

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm savory berry fruit supported by slight candied accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with slightly bitter red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity -- not quite enough -- and by tannins that are rather blocky and have a distinct burr that keeps the wine from flowing, as it were, and settles directly into the finish. It's like diving a car with the emergency brake pulled 1 star

Cà dei Colli Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Lively salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with rather pungent apple fruit supported by some minerality and slight mineral acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense mineral laced fruit that flows into a fairly mineral rather bitter finish. 1 star

Cà dei Colli Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Fairly pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with hydrocarbons and some finger paint of the sort I used as a child. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour raspberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a splintery green burr and flow into a warm slightly splintery finish. It's like a porcupine with its quills up, and this is youth. Because of its aggressiveness it will be a good cookout or picnic wine.1 star

Cascina Mondator Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011 Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly candied berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with minerality and bitterness more than fruit, flowing into a gunflint laced finish with some underlying pungency.1 star

Cascina Mondator Bardolino DOC 2011 Barrel sample Brilliant ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with, we,, band aids, and slight mentholated notes. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with berry fruit laced with slight band aid and supported by savory minerality and tannins that are rather splintery with peppery accents. It's very much up in the air, and this can happen with a tank sample.

Natale Castellani Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant reflections and pin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with candied red berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and hints of heather and greenish mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with bitter minerality prevailing over fruit, and flowing into a gunflint laced finish. I'd have liked more depth than it displays.1 star

Natale Castellani Bardolino DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby -- it's one of the paler Bardolinos -- with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with red blossoms and floral accents mingled with slight grapefruit acidity and some dusky vegetal accents with slight gunflint. On the palate it's light, and bright, with lively raspberry fruit supported by sour wild strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and slightly blocky, flowing into a greenish sour berry fruit finish. It's quite light, revolving around acidity as much as fruit, and if you like the style it will be a perfect cookout wine, or also very nice with fried meats and vegetables, another summer classic. It will be perfect in the proper occasion.2 stars

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with candied cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and slight hints of very ripe pear -- grasping at straws here. On the palate it's ample and soft, lacking in acidity, with some gunflint bitterness to provide direction.1 star

Cavalchina Bardolino DOC 2011Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and slight berry fruit with delicate mentholated notes and floral accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported more by splintery savory tannins than acidity, and flows into a rather tannic finish. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit. 1 star

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant white reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with some red berry fruit and slight scalded milk. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with gunflint bitterness more than fruit guiding the show, and flowing into a fairly long decidedly bitter gunflint laced finish. 1 star

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some candied cherry fruit supported by slight sandalwood and some greenish accents, with hints of Marseilles laundry soap as well. On the palate it's ample and rather dusky, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a bitter greenish burr and flow into a fairly tannic slightly sour finish. It's somewhat lacking in acidity, thought he tannins do a good job of stepping in, and it will work well with simple summer foods.2 stars

Renato Corradini

Renato Corradini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale rose petal pink with bright rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is brambly with some greenish acidity and some berry fruit, though it's mostly bramble. On the palate it's brighter than many, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by some brambly berry fruit acidity and by slight greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish. It displays enjoyable verve, and will be pleasant with summer foods, at cookouts or picnics, and also be a nice bet with pizza.2 stars

Renato Corradini Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively slightly orange cherry with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with candied cherry fruit supported by warmth and greenish accents with some sunny almost orange acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains roundness from a degree of sweetness, and is supported by dusky rather mineral acidity and tannins that are light with slight sandalwood accents, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish finish. Pleasant in a slightly opulent middle of the road key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.2 stars

Corte Fornello Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish notes and slight spice. On the palate it's slightly more settled than I might have liked, with some berry fruit and some acidity, but it revolves more around savory minerality and gunflint bitterness.1 star

Corte Fornello Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some stable straw and finger paints of the sort I played with as a child. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that have a bitter greenish burr, and flow into a finish in which the aromas of the nose return. It's not as clean as I might have liked, and the tannins are rather dry.1 star

Corte Gardoni Le Fontane Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherryr impenetrable. The bouquet is eye opening, with considerable rather dark opulence, ripe jammy cherry fruit that is supported by slight sandalwood and some mentholated accents, and some acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather sweet, with moderately intense cherry raspberry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with slight vegetal laced splintery accents and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish with a slight dusky bitter underpinning. It's pleasant, in a slightly richer key than some, and will work quite well with foods -- it's one of those wines that goes when you set it out, and people ask for more.2 stars

Raval Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011 Pale slightly salmonate pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather-laced raspberry fruit supported by greenish notes and some strawberry acidity. Fairly graceful. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with strawberry raspberry fruit supported by bitter minerality with slight mineral acidity, and it flows into a rather bitter finish in which tannins with a slight burr emerge. Pleasant in a slightly more languid key, with minerality more than acidity providing direction, and doing a good job.2 stars

Raval Bardolino Classico DOC 2011. Cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and brilliant ruby reflections, white rim. The bouquet is deft, with slightly brambly berry fruit supported by heather and some slightly balsamic animal notes with hints of hardwood ash as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery greenish burr, and flow into a warm bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and also fairly aggressive; because of this it's a wine to set out with grilled meats, and expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Brilliant rose with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly candied cherry fruit supported by hints of sweetness and some mentholated heather. On the palate it's fairly bitter, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported more by bitter minerality with some gunflint accents than acidity, and it flows into a fairly bitter. Finish. It's a little duskier than I might have liked, more brooding than bright.1 star

Zenato Bardolino DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby highlights; white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with rather candied cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some mineral berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a fresh fairly savory berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. It's fairly direct, and up front; it will work well with simple meats and won't distract from what it's served with.1 star

Liviana Falconi Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly bright cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by aromas that bring onion soup to mind. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense raspberry cherry fruit supported by sweetish raspberry acidity and by light tannins that have slight savory accents and flow into a moderately long sweetish raspberry finish with sandalwood accents. I'd have liked greater richness and brightness to the fruit, which is ripe but a bit flat1 star

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and salmon rim paling to white. The bouquet is dusky, and rather savory; there is some acidity but not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly bright yellow fruit mingled with grapefruit and supported by savory grapefruit acidity that flows into a clean bright finish. It needs until summer for the nose to come together, but will be pleasant in a bright rather bracing key.2 stars

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish brambly berry fruit supported by some peppery spice and some sandalwood. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, a mix of raspberry and some currant, and by tannins that have a slightly splintery burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's fairly aggressive, and because of this isn't a wine to drink by the glass, but it will work quite well at a cookout, especially one featuring lamb chops or sausages, and also be nice with fried meats or vegetables. Expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.2 stars

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some spicy slightly greenish fruit mingled with grapefruit and some spice. On the palate it's fairly soft, with moderately intense white berry fruit supported by savory minerality and grapefruit acidity that flow into a fairly long grapefruit acidity laced finish that gradually becomes savory as the other elements fade. I'd have liked a little more depth and brightness to the fruit, which is a touch settled and doesn't match the acidity.1 star

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Classico 2011Pale cherry ruby; it's not as pale as a Chiaretto but in that direction. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and some nose tingling spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather soft despite fairly bright acidity; the fruit is sour raspberry and there is acidity but the tannins are blocky and don't flow with the wine, but rather bunch up where they are. I'd have liked a little more brightness of fruit to balance the tannins, which are rather invasive.1 star

Girasole

Giralsole Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Fairly lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some lemony acidity and slight greenish vegetal notes with hints of raspberry as well, and a certain pungency. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense bitter berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather brambly, and by blocky tannins that have a smoky bitter underpinning. I'd have liked more richness of fruit; it's fairly aggressive and will therefore work well with fatty meats and such at a cookout, but you have to like the style. 1 star

La Cà Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Lively rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with pleasant minerality and some grapefruit acidity supported by moderate alcohol and some spice. On the palate it's fairly bright, with deft minerality supported by some savory accents and warm mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish. It's fairly deft, and more interesting on the nose than the palate; at this stage in its life this is quite alright, and I think it will be pleasant in a fairly direct key, come summer.2 stars

La Cà Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with slight menthol and some sandalwood with slight graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's pleasant, with sour raspberry cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky slightly bitter burr, and flow into a clean greenish tannic finish with lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a slightly greenish key, and will drink quite well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or fried meats and vegetables. 2 stars

La Rocca Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively pale cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with slightly candied berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some greenish underlying sandalwood with hints of cocoa as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich ripe berry fruit, a mix of cassis and raspberry, supported by moderate acidity and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly mentholated peppery raspberry finish. It's something of a fruit bomb in a soft round red fruit key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter wines with more acidity and tannic bite it won't work for you.1 star

Le Fraghe Ròdon Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Lively rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright and rather brambly with intense heather and some greenish spice supported by pleasant savory notes. On the palate it's fairly rich and quite mineral, with grapefruit fruit supported by dusky greenish minerality and fair warmth, and it flows into a clean bright rather mineral finish. Pleasing in a rather brash zesty key, and will work well as an aperitif or with summery fish dishes, including fried fish and vegetables. 2 stars

Le Fraghe Bardolino DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral notes, red blossoms, mingled with greenish vegetal accents and some spice with hint sof sandalwood and some hardwood ash. On the palate it's soft and fairly rich ion the outset, with sour raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery greenish burr and flow into a splintery tannic finish. It's a bit green, and splintery, and because of this is best suited to fattier grilled meats or fried mats and vegetables.1 star

Le Ginestre Cà Roina Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Bright roes pink with brilliant rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky greenish accents mingled with some grapefruit acidity and some smoky notes, and also some hardwood ash with slight candied fruit accents. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate white berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and slight rather bitter tannins with a dusky burr that flow into a fairly long mineral finish with a gunflint underpinning. It's fairly direct, and I found myself wishing there were more brightness to the fruit. 1 star

Le Ginestre Mondragon Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry fruit laced with some cassis and some mentholated accents with slight wet paper, which is an effect of recent bottling. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich cassis laced berry fruit supported by moderate fairly mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth though they do display a slight greenish burr, and flo9w into a fairly long soft berry fruit finish that's also fairly sweet. Ample and soft and a wine to consider primarily if you like rather luscious ripe fruit forward wines.1 star

Le Muraglie Vicentini Bardolino DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, and fairly sweet, with jammy cherry fruit that has some candied accents, and some underlying menthol as well mingled with savory accents. On the palate it's fairly soft, with riep cherry black currant fruit supported by some mineral warmth more than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly loing quite rioep berry fruit finish. It's quite ripe, luscious even, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer greater tightness and acidity it won't work as well for you. within its context it is nice, but you have to like the style.1 star

Le Vigne di San Pietro Bardolino DOC 2011Barrel sample Pale ruby with brownish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense and a bit unusual, with an initial rush of licorice root that gives way to some savory notes, and then shits down to a degree. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a greenish splintery burr. Lacks verve. but this can happen in barrel samples.

Lenotti Vigna le Giare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with rather candied fruit supported by some greenish notes and slight vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate slightly candied cherry fruit supported by some gunflint laced minerality that flows into a rather mineral finish. Quite direct, and very up front.1 star

Lenotti Vigna le Giare Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with candied cherry fruit supported by sweet accents and some vegetal notes, also spice and some savory bitter notes. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by dusky slightly bitter acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, though they do display dusky greenish splintery notes, and flow into a fairly long ripe plum finish with spicy vegetal accents. It's quite ripe and a little green, and the greenishness will make it a good bet with succulent grilled meats along the lines of hamburgers.2 stars

Marcello Marchesini Bardolino Classico DOC 2011 Pale cherry ruby with brownish reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slight balsamic accents and barnyard tang with some smoky notes. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests though still fairly soft, with moderately intense sour raspberry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly long rather splintery tannic finish with bright mineral acidity. It's fairly aggressive, and because of this will work well with fattier grilled meats or fired meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will go quickly, though in others it simply won't work.1 star

Meneghello Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale slightly salmonate rosy pink with brilliant reflections and a pink rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some roses mingled with strawberry and slight scalded milk. On the palate it's rather peppery, and quite direct, with moderately intense minerality laced with strawberry and flowing into a fairly mineral finish. Direct, up front, and rather simple. 1 star

Meneghello Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents. On the palate it's ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while the tannins are dusky and fairly smooth, flowing into a rather bitter finish with fruit and slight scalded milk. I'd have liked a little more richness to the tannins, which are rather green and somewhat dry.2 starsMonte dei Roari

Monte dei Roari Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011Barrel sample Pale slightly salmonate pink with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, something to be expected in a barrel sample. On the palate it's bright, with lively strawberry fruit supported by fairly bright strawberry acidity with some grapefruit accents and underlying gunflint minerality that adds depth and direction. Promising, and will be a pleasant aperitif, and also work well with grilled fish, and be a nice cookout wine too. Something to keep an eye out for.

Monte dei Roari Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit supported by slight greenish notes and slight spice. On the palate it's quite savory, with moderate rather splintery berry fruit supported by almost balsamic acidity and tannins that have an angry green burr and hunker down over the tongue. 1 star

Monte del Frà Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2011 Pale slightly salmonate rose petal pink with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; as it opens slight grapefruit emerges. On the palate it's quite direct, with moderate minerality supported by some grapefruit acidity and some peppery gunflint bitterness that to be honest I didn't expect from the nose. It's fairly direct, and the nose is very young, but is sows some promise and is one of those simple wines one can put out when friends who are not wine drinkers come calling. My does that sound snooty :-/1 star

Monte del Frà Bardolino DOC 2011Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some candied cherry accents and hints of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry raspberry fruit supported by sour raspberry acidity that has some scalded milk notes, and is supported by tannins that have a decidedly greenish burr and flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. The fruit is ripe but the tannins have an aggressive green cast, making it a wine better suited to grilled meats or cookouts and similar than being sipped by the glass. In the proper setting it will do quite well.1 star

Monte Zovo Bardolino DOC 2011Barrel sample Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and pale pink rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rich for a barrel sample, with candied cherry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and sweetish notes. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense vegetal acidity and by tannins that are warm and smooth, with some sandalwood, and flow into a dusky greenish finish. I'd have liked somewhat brighter acidity, because the fruit is rich but also rather brooding.

Pigno Bardolino DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and floral notes, and some sandalwood spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with lively sandalwood laced cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by tannins that have a moderately intense s0plintery greenish burr and flow into a fairly long fruit finish with some sandalwood accents. Pleasant in a fairly middle of the road key though it does display the vintage's signature greenness, and is therefore better suited to foods than to being drunk by the glass. 2 stars

Albino Piona Bardolino DOC 2011Lively cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights, and white rim. The bouquet is rather candied, with some smoky notes as well. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense sandalwood laced plum cherry fruit supported by greenish spicy accents that are more grape than unripeness, and by considerable warmth, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long warm finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit, which is rather dusky, though it isn't as green as many.2 stars

Dante Righetti

Dante Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011Rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate vegetal accents mingled with slight cherry strawberry fruit and some scalded milk, and supported by slight sweetness and minerality. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bright rather greenish cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal minerality and slight tannins that have some gunflint to them, and flow into a fairly long gunflint laced finish with a distinctly savory underpinning. It's pleasant in a slightly greenish key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Dante Righetti Bardolino Classico 2011Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit and also some wet paper -- it's still coming together and hasn't recovered from bottling yet. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense rather generic red berry fruit supported by fairly bright slightly balsamic acidity and by tannins that hhave a greenish burr and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish. I'd have liked greater richness and fullness to the fruit, which surrenders to the other elements.1 star

Luigino e Claudio Rizzi Colle Morar Bardolino DOC 2011Barrel sample Deep cherry ruby; unusually dark for a Bardolino, leading one to wonder if the grapes were overripe, or…? The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with some cherry fruit supported by hints of cassis and some sandalwood, with underlying sweetness. On the palate it's something of a fruit bomb, with rich ripe cherry plum fruit supported by just enough acidity to give direction, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long rather dusky tannic finish. Way ripe and quite curvy, it's a wine you will enjoy if you like this ripe fruit driven style without much acidity, but only if. If you prefer tighter more acidic wines it won't work for you.

Roccolo del Lago Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pleasant greenish vegetal note supporting some strawberry fruit and supported by fairly bright grapefruit acidity and some savory accents, On the palate it's fairly bright, in a mineral key, with minerality more than fruit taking the lead, supported by grapefruit acidity that flows into a fairly long grapefruit laced finish. Pleasant, and will be a nice aperitif, and will also work quite well with grilled or fried fish, and fried meats.2 stars

Roccolo del Lago Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Deeper black cherry ruby than many, with black reflections and lively dusky ruby highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather jammy, with red berry fruit supported by some sweetness, slight balsam and hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by berry fruit acidity that gradually emerges, growing into lasting warmth, while the tannins are quite smooth, and flow into a fairly bright tart finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly rich, slightly less aggressive key, and will drink nicely with foods; in the space of a few months it may also smooth enough to be drunk by the glass. 2 stars

Santi L'Infinito Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rather pungent, with greenish accents and moderate acidity supported by some dusky notes. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense mineral laced white fruit supported by slight acidity and by slight slightly flinty tannins that flow into a greenish finish. Quite direct, and up front.1 star

Santi Vigneto Cà Bordensis Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Pale cherry ruby with brownish black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights; pale rim. The bouquet is quite young, with some berry fruit and also wet paper, a result of recent bottling. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by tannins that are blocky and greenish, flowing into a decidedly greenish blocky tannic finish. The nose may come around, but the green tannins are what they are.1 star

Sartori Bardolino Classico 2011Pale cherry ruby with blackish reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and brambles supporting some rather candied berry fruit and slight spice; there is also some underlying wet paper from recent bottling. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately bright decidedly sour cherry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by tannins that have a warm rather greenish burr and flow into a rather dry splintery tannic finish. Very, very young, but I can say I would have liked more richness of fruit,1 star

Tinazzi Campo delle Rose Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2011Lively pale rose petal pink with brilliant rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with strawberry blossoms and some greenish accents supported by rose petals and underlying grapefruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh grapefruit fruit supported by greenish accents and gunflint minerality with slight tannins that flow into a fairly long bright gunflint laced finish. Pleasant in a fairly zesty key and will be nice as an aperitif or with grilled fish, or even white meats. Also with spicier foods that a red would work less well with.2 stars

Tinazzi Cà Dei Rocci Bardolino Classico 2011Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby highlights; white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with brambles and sandalwood with some underlying spice. Fairly deft. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery greenish finish. It's pleasant though a touch thinner than I might have liked; more fullness to the fruit would have fleshed it out.1 star

Tinazzi Pieve San Vito Bardolino Classico 2011Bright cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby highlights; white rim. The bouquet is dusky, with ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by greenish sandalwood accents and some camphor as well; with some sea salt as well. On the palate it's a little fuller than its cousin, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by warm slightly brambly mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a lasting tart berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a bright fairly aggressive key, and will work well with grilled fattier meats or fried meats and vegetables. In short, a summer wine.2 stars

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Bardolino Classico DOC 2011Bright cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly candied, with candied sweetish red berry fruit supported by some jammy accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with fairly ripe cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight sandalwood burr. It's not as overripe on the palate as the nose suggests, and the fruit is also tighter than I expected. It's fairly direct, but will drink quite well with simple summer foods, ranging from grilled meats through pizza.. It grew on me.2 stars

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2011Pale rosy pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some strawberry fruit supported by slight savory accents and slight balsamic accents with some herbals notes and the heather of a cut field in summer. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich savory minerality and that supported grapefruit fruit and some grapefruit acidity, which flows into a fairly long grapefruit finish. Fairly deft, in a bright key, and will be pleasant as an aperitif or with fired meats or vegetables, and also, of course, with fish.2 stars

I have always enjoyed Carpenè Malvolti's wines, and make a point of stopping at their stand during Vinitaly to taste both their Prosecco and their Arte della Spumantistica wines, wines made form other grapes (and from other regions) that are quite interesting and quite enjoyable.Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2011Residual sugar 11 g/literPale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is crisp, with bright green apple and green apple acidity bolstered by some sweetness. Fairly bright. On the palate it's it is bright, with lively fresh apple fruit supported by slightly bitter mineral accents that flow into a fairly mineral finish. It's quite approachable, fresh, and easy to drink.2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Cartizze 2011Dry, Residual sugar 21 g/liter Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and fairly sweet with Golden Delicious apples supported by sweetness and some creamy accents. Inviting in a fairly soft key. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich sweet Golden Delicious apple fruit supported by Golden Delicious acidity and by pleasant creaminess from the sparkle. Quite approachable, and will be very pleasant as a summer wine to drink with friends in the evening as the stars come out, or even at poolside.2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Cuvée Oro DOCG 2011Dry, Residual sugar 24 g/literBrassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich and rather ripe, with ripe Golden Delicious apples mingled with some greenish accents and delicate sugars. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with pleasant Golden Delicious fruit supported by fairly bright Golden Delicious acidity and some mineral accents that flow into a fairly long mineral finish. Pleasant, in a bright, rich key; it's a little fuller and softer than the Cartizze, and which you prefer is up to you. I rather liked the definition of the Cartizze.2 starsCarpenè Malvolti Cuvée 1868 Vino Spumante BrutThis is a Metodo Charmat, and spent 9 months on the lees in tank. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, and rather savory, with crisp apple fruit that has some white pear accents and slight gunflint supported by moderate mineral acidity. On the palate it's deft and savory, with fairly bright dried apple fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by a clean, smooth, slightly peppery sparkle. It's quite fresh, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with fush.88-90

Carpenè Malvolti Kerner Brut 2011Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and brilliant brassy highlights, while the perlage is fine. The bouquet is elegant, with rich rather sweet loquat and apricot fruit supported by refreshing coolness and some savory notes. On the palate it's fresh, with lively minerality and dried apple/green apricot fruit supported by moderately intense minerality with some gunflint accents that flow into a sweet rather flinty finish in which savory notes accompany the fruit. It's a little riper and richer than some vintages of Kerner have been, and this is vintage variation at work. 90

Carpenè Malvolti Gevürztraminer Brut 2011Pale greenish white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with strawberry and yellow peaches mingled with pleasant floral accents and some underlying minerality and sea salt. On the palate it's bright and creamy, with languid rose laced yellow fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity that flows into a long, fresh floral finish with underlying bitter accents. Quite refreshing and is a wine one could drink as an aperitif or serve with the meal. It's a little fresher than the Kerner.90

Carpenè Malvolti Rosé Cuvée Brut 2011This is Pinot Nero and Raboso, and is pale rose petal pink tending towards onionskin with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with raspberry and some forest berry fruit by cool refreshingly flinty minerality and some spice. On the palate it's deft, with delicate red berry fruit -- cassis with some blackberry -- supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral laced finish with some savory accents. Deft, and will work very well as an aperitif or with the meal.90-91

Carpenè Malvolti Millesimato Metodo Classico Brut 2007This is Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes grown in Trentino, which spent 24 months on the lees. Brassy gold with brilliant greenish highlights and brassy reflections, while the perlage is fine and steady. Deft bouquet with fairly intense minerality laced with gunflint and warm citric notes, also some vegetal accents and some wet bread crumbs, peppery spice, and leesy notes. On the palate it's full, and quite mineral, with creaminess from the sparkle and delicate citric accents, while there is some peppery spice from the sparkle, and it flows into a clean mineral finish.2 stars

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.