SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. The golden eagle nesting season is underway and climbers continue to demonstrate 100% compliance rate with the closure, and we need to make sure to repeat that showing. This closure is mandatory for all users groups including climbers and hikers, and violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The soonest the closure could be partially lifted is May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios at that time. Please spread the word and stay tuned for updates.

NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. The mesa on top of the columns is private ranchland. Please do not top out or approach from above to rappel or set top ropes. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

U4 is an intimidating route that requires wide stemming, laybacking and jamming to get to the top. Placing gear can be difficult because your usually in a layback or wide stem when doing it and its hard to see the placements. Don't let this discourage you though the climbing is never that difficult and the route is fantastic. Shorter climbers may find the route more difficult, I'm 6' tall with a 0 ape index and felt 11- was about right.

Location

This route is located approximately 100 to 150 feet to the left of JR Tolken. Look for two cracks that are about 5 feet apart. The right crack is in a large left facing corner and the left crack is in a very small (about half a foot) right facing corner.

Protection

This route mostly takes .5 to 1 Camalot sizes with a few smaller cams and wires. I think a gold Camalot fits somewhere but can't remember for sure. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top.