This care sheet is
intended only to cover the general care of this species. Ongoing research to
best develop a plan to keep the animal in peak condition for whichever species
you are caring for is essential.

The combination of its small size and beautiful golden color has made
Testudo kleinmanni a much sought after addition to tortoise
collections. This popularity within the pet trade is second only to habitat
loss in terms of impacting the overall wild populations. The Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) lists
Testudo kleinmanni as an Appendix I species, affording it the
highest possible protection. The Egyptian tortoise is also listed as Endangered
on the World Conservation Union (IUCN) Red List, which is the second highest
designation.

T. kleinmanni
is a difficult species to maintain and should not be considered an appropriate
species for the beginning tortoise keeper. Found from Libya to Israel, they are
extremely well adapted to their native arid environment; unfortunately this very
adaptation to extreme conditions leaves them vulnerable when we attempt to
maintain them in our “human” temperate world. Only if one is willing to go to
great lengths to duplicate their natural environment should keeping and breeding
this species be attempted. Only captive hatched animals should be obtained. The
combination of shipping stress, exposure to foreign pathogens, and minimal
physical reserves due to their diminutive size results in the vast majority of
wild caught specimens perishing, even with aggressive medical care.

As indicated by
their light coloration, T. kleinmanni originate in sandy / rocky
areas. Evolving a darker coloration in such an area would make a tortoise easy
prey for any predator. Their small size allows them to warm quickly after cold
desert nights and their reflective rather than absorptive carapace color allows
them to extend their time foraging during the day before the desert heat drives
them under cover. Male Egyptian tortoises are typically 3 – 4 inches (8 – 10
cm) in length as adults, while females are somewhat larger at 4 – 5 inches (10 –
12 cm)

HOUSING:
Egyptian tortoises MUST be housed in a dry, warm environment with low
ambient humidity. This must be taken into consideration when arranging housing
for them. Upon exposure to a humid environment, even if warm, many of these
tortoises fare very poorly and rapidly decline. This is a species that has
evolved a very strict niche over the years and one that does not fare well
outside that niche. While most species of tortoises respond well and do much
better with outdoor maintenance, this species tends to do best in indoor
accommodations unless they are being maintained in a low humidity, high
temperature climate. Egyptian tortoises tend to bury themselves in the topsoil
or under the base of clumps of grass, regardless of being maintained indoors or
out. Opportunities to practice this natural behavior should be provided for.

HOUSING
EGYPTIAN TORTOISES INDOORS: - The
most useful form of indoor accommodation for Egyptian Tortoises consists of a
“turtle table”. To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto
its back. A reasonable size for a single specimen is 2 feet by 3 feet, (60 cm by
90 cm). If keeping more than one together, the size of this habitat should be
increased along with providing sightline breaks and opportunities to blend into
their surroundings for this easily stressed species. For a pair of adult
Egyptian tortoises the indoor habitat should be at least 4 feet by 2 feet, (120
cm by 60 cm). Into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow
for the sinking of food, water, and nesting containers flush with the surface
for easier animal access.

Many T. kleinmanni will not make use of a water dish. For those that
will utilize one, the water dish in the habitat should be large enough to allow
the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes - it must also be shallow enough to
protect it from drowning. Small photographic developing trays work well for
this purpose. Due to the nature of this species, one of the authors places his
animals in a soak bowl once a week to maintain hydration. As a substrate, the
dry portion of the environment should consist of a mixture of sand and clean
topsoil. Some keepers use a combination of topsoil and chicken grit (crushed
coarse limestone) as a substrate. As an alternative to these substrates grass
hay serves admirably and is preferred by the authors. Grass hay provides
supplemental food as well as a burrowing substrate that does not “hold”
humidity. Due to the rapid degradation of hay when it gets damp, it should be
monitored closely and changed as needed.

In one
corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be
positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned
to provide a basking spot of 90 – 95 degrees F (32 – 35 degrees C) in that
section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full
spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for
Vitamin D3 syntheses (an essential component of calcium metabolism). A
Mercury vapor bulb may be used to fulfill both heat and UV requirements.
Some keepers have had excellent success with using both a mercury vapor light to
provide UVB and daytime heat as well as a ceramic heat emitter on 24 hours over
one end of a habitat to provide a temperature gradient. Both the Mercury vapor
light and the ceramic heat emitter mentioned above it is advised that one use a
fixture with a ceramic lamp holder, as these are both very hot. Fixtures should
also be affixed in such a manner that they cannot contact the possibly flammable
substrate. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the
basking spot to allow the animal a cool, dim retreat. This is an extremely
important component particularly for this species.

OUTDOOR HOUSING - Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages
over indoor accommodations and should be seriously considered as an option
during warm weather if one lives in a low humidity climatic zone. While
both authors are strong proponents of outdoor habitats for chelonia, Testudo
kleinmanni is one of the few exceptions where properly designed indoor
habitats are preferred in most situations. Egyptian tortoises appear to be
fairly cold tolerant but as mentioned earlier in this care sheet cannot tolerate
damp conditions.

DIET
- A high
fiber, low protein, calcium rich diet will ensure good digestive tract function
and smooth growth. Testudo hermanni fed on cat or dog foods frequently
die from renal failure or from impacted bladder stones of solidified urates.
There is no reason to presume that Egyptian tortoises would react otherwise.
Avoid over-reliance upon 'supermarket' greens, which typically contain
inadequate fiber levels and are too rich in sugar. While fruit need not be
completely avoided, they should be given very, very sparingly to this species as
the high sugar foods can cause diarrhea and are not a natural part of the wild
diet. A light water sprinkling of leafy greens and weeds prior to feeding will
approximate the early morning foraging of Egyptian tortoises and supply needed
moisture to the diet.

Leafy
greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)

Grasses and weeds

Additional calcium supplementation is essential. Powdered
calcium can be sprinkled on all foods. It is suggested that the caregiver
provide calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained
indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish
bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.

This species does not
hibernate but it does aestivate in very hot, dry periods. It is not suggested
that anything but very minimal aestivation be attempted and even then only with
very close supervision. Environmental modification for breeding purposes has
proven to be an important part of continued reproduction with this species.

MEDICAL:
Before purchasing an individual of this species, a number of things should be
taken into consideration. First and foremost is the intended purpose for your
new Egyptian tortoise. Testudo kleinmanni are a species, which is under
considerable wild pressure, and purchasing such an animal bears additional
responsibilities in terms of making all necessary adjustments/pairings to
reproduce it. We all have a responsibility to be sure that we do not
contribute to the loss of such a magnificent species but rather contribute to
it’s future.

Also, even now it is
not uncommon for members of this species to be smuggled into the country due to
their diminutive size. Captive bred animals, while not available in large
numbers, are being produced regularly from various dedicated breeders. They can
be distinguished from their wild caught counterparts by a number of features.
First and foremost, captive bred animals tend to be fairly outgoing whereas one
will seldom see the head of a wild caught animal as they withdraw themselves
within their shell. Secondly, wild caught Egyptian tortoises almost invariably
have heavy, heavy parasite loads. Due to their harsh environment, wild caught
animals typically have a variety of old shell lesions compared to relatively
undamaged captive bred stock. Last, but not least, most captive bred animals
have some degree of pyramiding to their scutes.

Before purchasing an
animal, closely examine the mouth, nares (nostrils), and eyes of your intended
purchase. If the mouth is extremely pale, the tongue appears covered in a
coating of plaque-like material, there are bubbles coming from its nares or
mouth, or the tortoises eyes/eyelids are swollen shut do NOT purchase
it. Also, again be sure to note the captive bred versus wild caught nature of
the animal. While captive bred animals tend to be wonderful additions to any
serious collection, wild caught animals of this species are incredibly difficult
to adapt to captive conditions without serious intervention.

This is a species
that must NEVER be mixed with another species. Egyptian tortoises have
adapted themselves to a very, very tight niche over the millennia and because of
this are extremely sensitive to disease carried by other species.

Lastly, it should be
noted that drug dosage and administration information available on the Internet
or in hobbyist books is often dated and possibly dangerous, please leave drug
advice to trained professionals.

Turtle and tortoise
care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on
the World Chelonian Trust web site at
www.chelonia.org. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the
support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online
email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact
us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.