Woodworking in America is a conference held every year by the folks at Popular Woodworking Magazine. The conference features classes from various woodworking experts, a bustling vendor floor where you can quickly max out your credit cards, and numerous official and unofficial after-hours events. Personally, my favorite aspect of the show is the camaraderie. More than any other woodworking event, WIA brings out the online woodworkers. That means I get to put faces with the names I’ve been communicating with for years. And for the first time ever, all three co-hosts of Wood Talk were in the same place at the same time. The result of that can be heard in Wood Talk #154.

While I’d love to show you extensive footage of the classes, that just isn’t possible. There are always intellectual property hurdles and not to mention, video/audio quality concerns. So this video shows a few highlights and then focuses primarily on the vendors. It’s always fun to see new tools I’ll probably never buy and the vendors usually aren’t shy about discussing their products.

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Mon, 28 Oct 2013 15:26:22 GMThttp://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/38311thewoodwhispererthewoodwhispererTilt-Top Table http://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/37665
For some reason, I can’t see the video. Just in case you also cannot see the video, here’s a link: http://youtu.be/slUtiqh-bLM

Small tables are great skill-building projects. You can pack a lot of joinery and techniques into a very confined space while using a small amount of material. The Tilt-Top Table is a great example of this as it contains a turned post, sliding dovetails, curved and tapered legs, an elliptical top, and a classic shop-made tilt mechanism.

While this video summarizes the entire build, I have a lot more footage available for folks who actually want to build the project. In the Guild, this project is represented by 12 videos with over 4 hours of HD video footage. Of course we also have a detailed project plan and SketchUp diagrams for you as well. Get access to the full project series here.

Hey folks. My new book, Hybrid Woodworking, comes out in November. We are having a limited time pre-order offer that ends on Friday August 16th. You get three months of free Wood Whisperer Guild time when you pre-order the book. The video gives more explanation and you can get all the details here.

This is completely self-promotional so if this violates any LJ policies please let me know and I’ll remove the post. I certainly don’t want to ruffle any feathers.

A pizza peel is a giant spatula intended to deliver a raw pizza to the oven as well as pull the cooked pizza out. Professional versions feature long handles that allow the cook to reach the very back of the oven. A version for the average home can be much more compact.

The pizza peel I designed can be made from any wood you like and certainly doesn’t need to be made from expensive woods like bubinga and figured maple. And before you give me crap about it, these were scraps from previous projects that would have sat in the lumber pile for years if I didn’t incorporate them into something useful.

HistoryEver since I left New Jersey, I have been on a quest to find good pizza. In Trenton, we had numerous typical pizza parlors but there were also a bunch of places that specialized in what is known as tomato pie. While there are many variants in the Northeast, the key to a good tomato pie is the focus on the sauce, not the cheese. The Trenton version features an incredibly thin crust and the taste is very clean, not too oily, and absolutely NOTHING like the crap Pizza Hut passes off as “pizza.” Sorry Pizza Hut, your pizza-cake is gross.

Keep in mind that the measurements above were primarily driven by the stock I had on hand and the dimensions of my pizza stone. If you are making your peel from on species of wood, you certainly don’t need to use as many pieces to create the primarily platform of the peel.

There are a lot of ways you can tackle a simple project like this. But when it comes to small kitchen items, it’s always best to prepare for making multiples. So instead of gluing the boards together and cutting them to shape directly, I recommend making a template. This way you can make multiples now or in the future. As long as you have a flush trim bit for your router, you’re good to go.

The Tomato Pie RecipeDisclaimer: We are not professional chefs and I’m sure there are many ways to improve this recipe and our methods. The goal here was only to have some fun and show you how we made some delicious pizza in the Spagnuolo house.

A few weeks back, I visited professional turner and instructor Matt Monaco’s shop in Phoenix, AZ. I was there to film a segment for a recent Wood Whisperer Guild project but Matt also offered to show us how he turns a spinning top in under ten minutes! He does it all with a roughing gouge and a skew chisel.

During the little interview section at the end, Matt mentions a turning tool company that he really believes in. Here’s the link in case you want to check them out: Thompson Tools

I recently made a Tilt-Top Table that features a turned post. Since many folks don’t own a lathe, I decided to come up with an alternative way to construct a post. I found inspiration in an episode of Woodworks from season 4. David Marks made this awesome lamp stand with a spiral post. With David’s permission, I’m going to show you a variation of the technique that I learned from him. While Season 4 of Woodworks isn’t available just yet, you can buy Seasons 1, 2 and 3 right now at DJMarks.com. Both downloads and DVDs are available. And if you aren’t familiar with Woodworks, you seriously need to pick up a season or two!

My original goal was to simply show you the spiral carving technique. But it’s always more fun to actually make something useful, so I quickly shoe-horned the spiral pattern into a small candle stand. Aside from the spiral itself, construction of this candle stand is quite simple. So let’s dive in.

Prepare the BlankThe post blank starts at 2”W x 2”T x 8”L. While I give you specific numbers for laying out the spiral pattern, keep in mind that you might want to change these numbers to suit your tastes. You can have more spirals by diving the blank length by a larger number. Or you can have fewer spirals by dividing by a smaller number. You might also play with the start and stop point of the spiral, allowing it to transition back to square. It’s completely up to you.

To bring the blank as close to a cylinder as possible, I use a large 1” roundover bit taking multiple passes and sneaking the bit up a little bit at a time. If you take too big of a bite, the workpiece may tear out or kick back. Keep in mind with each pass, you are essentially removing your reference material for safe routing. This is why we can’t bring the blank into a full cylindrical shape. When finished, there should be at least a 1/4” wide flat area on each side.

Using the method described in the video, lay out the spiral to your liking. Blue tape or even electrical tape works quite well for connecting the dots of the spiral pattern. Once the spiral is completely traced onto the blank, it’s time to sculpt.

Sculpting the SpiralTo sculpt the spiral, I’m using a Makita electric die grinder. The model linked to is the new version of the one I’m using. The die grinder accepts 1/4” shanks and the bit I’m using is a 1” carbide ball mill (or burr). Traditionally, this bit has been difficult to track down (as stated in the video). But I did a little digging and I found something comparable here.

Using the die grinder, remove the stock between the lines slowly. The action is a lot like erasing with a pencil. Work your way down being careful to keep the lines intact. I like to work down in stages. During the first stage, I might only remove stock to 1/8” depth at the very center of the spiral, but I’ll do this over the entire post. Stage two widens the “trough” while also making it deeper. The process continues until the spiral is at full depth (about 3/16”) and full width. By working the spiral down in stages, I have the advantage of course-correction when required.

Refine the SpiralOnce the spiral is roughed out with the die grinder, I switch to a fine rasp for the finishing touches. The rasp not only smooths out the rough surface left by the carbide burr, it also helps finesse the final details. Using sandpaper wrapped around a round contoured sanding pad (or a dowel) I smooth the surface up to 220-320 grit.

The BaseThe base and top of the candle stand are made up of small wooden disks. The top disk is 1/2” thick x 3 1/2” diameter. The bottom is actually a stack of two discs: one at 1/2” thick x 3 1/2” diameter and one at 1/4” thick x 3” diameter. The post is attached to the base and top via a small length of 1/2” diameter dowel stock. 3 1/2”

The FinishThe finish is pretty basic: wiping varnish. I started with Minwax Satin Poly and diluted it about 50% with mineral spirits. I then wiped on a total of three coats over the course of a day and a half. Before the final coat, I sanded the surface with 1000 grit wet-dry paper. The final coat goes on smooth and pretty much stays that way.

The VerdictThis was a bit of a rushed design and I’m really not in love with the end result. But it works for now and it’s still a perfectly usable candle stand. If I were to make another one, the first thing I would change is the diameter of the base. It should probably be 1/2” wider to help give the piece proper visual balance.

Whenever I glue multiple boards together, my ultimate goal is to hide the fact that it is indeed a glueup. If I can make it appear as if the panel was cut from one super wide board, I’m a very happy boy. The first step in achieving this lofty goal is to make sure the edges are milled properly. If the two mating surfaces don’t complement one another perfectly, you’ll have a noticeable glue line. But if the two edges are clean and square, the joint will have minimal visual impact. You’ll also have the added benefit of a solid glue bond and a panel that won’t fall apart 100 years from now.

While the joint itself is an important factor, it isn’t the primary thing I’m looking at when trying to create the illusion of a single wide board. For me, it’s all about the grain. If the boards are properly color-matched and the grain is aligned so that it looks like it continues through through the joint, the average person will NEVER know the joint is there. Of course, woodworkers should be able to spot it. But I’m not building my furniture for woodworkers. I’m building it for regular people. So if I can make a joint that meets a woodworker’s approval, I can be confident that the vast majority of the population will be fooled by my efforts.

Here are two good examples. Below you’ll see two table tops that are being used for my Tilt-Top Table project in the Guild. Can you spot the joints? Click the image to see a graphic that shows you exactly where the joints are located.

Now let’s take a closer look. In these two images, it’s still pretty difficult to make out where the joints are. When you have to strain to see it, you know you’ve hit the mark.

So how did I accomplish this? It’s all about color, grain, and distraction. If the color and grain look the same on both sides of the joint, it becomes harder to notice the glue line. Also, if you can draw the viewer’s eye AWAY from the joint, you essentially nullify its visual impact. If you’re clever and careful, you can also create visual “red herrings” as I did in the examples above.

Match the Color and Grain

The first step is board selection, and this is something that should be happening well before you cut any wood. While selecting your boards at the lumber yard, think about the most visible glueups in your project and plan ahead. Inspect each board for color and grain. If one board has straight grain and another board has wavy grain, you probably don’t want to use them together. If one board has an overall lighter color and a second board is darker, again, these are not good bedfellows. Always try to select boards with the same color and similar grain patterns. If you can, use chalk and a tape measure to mock up your eventual cut plan. As long as you plan on buying the boards, the lumber yard won’t care much if you mark them up.

Use the Same BoardI certainly can’t claim to have a highly-developed eye for color and grain matching. I am getting better and I’m always trying to hone that skill. In the mean time, I like to cheat! Well, it isn’t so much cheating as stacking the cards in my favor. Instead of trying to match color on a board by board basis, I always try to get my smaller boards from one larger board. Since most boards retain grain and color throughout, there’s a good chance that any child boards that come from a parent board will be similar.

Use DistractionThe secret to being a good magician is using distraction to divert the onlooker’s attention. So I try to be a woodworking magician. If possible, I like to include visually prominent elements in the vicinity of the joint line. Whether it’s a knot, some sap wood, or even a dark streak of grain, anything along these lines will help distract the eye from the dead straight glue line and will cause it to be lost in the shuffle.

So now let’s take another look at those two table tops. To ensure color and grain matching, the smaller boards were cut from one long board. The boards were flipped and rotated in various positions to find the layout that looked the most natural. You’ll also notice I relied heavily on the distraction concept. I really wanted to showcase the sapwood in the cherry boards and the light streak in the walnut was too cool to resist. So by including those features right at the joint, the glue line becomes invisible. We aren’t always able to employ distraction, but when done properly it can indeed be a magical thing. At the very least, mill your joints accurately and match up your color and grain and you’ll be well on your way to invisible panel joints.

The Thorsen House is one of the Greene & Greene ultimate bungalows located in Berkeley, California, one of the only ultimate bungalows in the northern part of the state. Built in 1909 by Hall and Ott and designed by Charles and Henry Greene, the house contains all of the detail one comes to expect from a Greene & Greeene masterwork.

The house is currently owned by the Sigma Phi Society of California and is a California historic landmark. While the house looks great in video, it is actually in need of repair and restoration. Leading the restoration effort are the Friends of the Thorsen House. Curious what needs fixing? Check out the list! If you would like to donate to help support the restoration effort, you can do so here.

I’d like to thank Darrell Peart for giving us the tour and the Friends of the Thorsen House allowing me to film on location.

The video gives you an extensive tour of the interior and exterior of the home, but here are a few images for you to enjoy as well:

<h2>History</h2>Over the years, I have tried a few of the common options out there for ductwork including home store HVAC, sewer & drain PVC, and economy snap-lock pipe. Below on the left you can see my old HVAC ductwork system in my first shop in Temecula, CA. I was running a Penn State Tempest cyclone at the time and didn’t have much ground to cover. The ductwork consisted of the 28 gauge snap-lock HVLP dutwork available at the home stores for a very reasonable price. While fairly thin-walled, I didn’t have any issues with the pipe collapsing and the system worked well enough.

After moving to the monster shop in Arizona, I had much more ground to cover and I quickly upgraded to a Clear Vue CV1800. Even back then I considered them to be the best bang for the buck in cyclone dust collection. Most folks who run a Clear Vue utilize 6” sewer & drain PVC pipe. I found a local source and picked up a bunch of pipe and various fittings. Because the system is PVC, assembling the joints was a piece of cake. Hanging the relatively heavy pipe from a 16 foot high ceiling, however, was a pain in the pooper. In spite of the awkward suspended ductwork and harsh 90 degree angles, the system was serviceable and I had adequate collection at each tool. And no, I did not fear

Fast-forward through several painful shop moves and I finally ended up back in the monster shop, once again challenged with designing a ductwork run that didn’t suck, or actually, on that DOES suck. So I decided to drop a few beans on some better quality metal ductwork from Penn State Industries. I purchase a few boxes of their 28 gauge Economy Snap-Lock Ductwork. Metal ductwork is never quite “fun” and involves self-tapping sheet metal screws, tin snips, aluminum duct tape, and many band-aids. But because the pipe is lighter, it’s much easier to hang. Unfortunately, thanks to my poor design and excessive use of 90 degree angles, the system did not perform well at all. It’s such a bad memory that I don’t even have a picture to share with you. Fortunately, the Dream Shop was in my future and I would have one final chance to do it right.

<h2>Doing it Right!</h2> In the new shop, I decided I was done screwing around with ductwork. Not only would I get the stuff that’s incredibly easy to install, I would also enlist the assistance of a professional ductwork designer. Now before you go thinking, “Hey, I can barely afford the ductwork let alone a design service!”, keep in mind that most vendors that sell ductwork will also provide a courtesy design service. I HIGHLY recommend you take advantage of that service and let someone who knows what they are doing help you make the right choices for your shop. Your lungs will thank you.

The ductwork I used is called Nordfab. It’s a smooth-walled pipe that snaps together end to end using their ingenious clamping system. This means the system can be modified, expanded, or reduced in a matter of seconds by simply unclamping various components. When clamped together, the pipes and fittings form an air-tight seal with no interior obstruction. The video shows you how the system works, in detail.

An essential part of this process was planning. In order for the design service to work their magic, they needed a tool layout and floor plan that shows the approximate tool locations as well as their port sizes. Without this information, it’s all just guesswork. So take measurements and sketch it out on paper. If you are so inclined, you should consider mocking up your shop in SketchUp like I did. The design service was actually able to overlay the proposed ductwork layout right into my SketchUp file. Feel free to download and check it out.

<h2>Pricing</h2>The one single massive gargantuan drawback to Nordfab ductwork is the price. For all of the things it does well, is it any surprise that it also does an incredibly good job of sucking the money out of your wallet? Here’s a rough run-down of some common metal ductwork prices for the sake of comparison.

Of course, the straight pipe is probably the least expensive part of any ductwork setup. There are blast gates, wyes, elbows, and flex pipe to consider, and those tend to hurt the most. Even the cheapest ductwork system is going to be a hefty sum. So when you are ready to get serious about quality integral dust collection, make sure you budget appropriately.

<h2>Geeky Side Note</h2>A lot of you were concerned after we moved into the new shop that my videos would be continually plagued by horrible audio due to echoes. As promised, the echo was addressed and this video shows an excellent before and after. Listen to the audio at the beginning and then compare that to the audio at the very end. That’s before and after sound treatment. Just thought some of you might be interested in that.

One of the most important safety upgrades you can make for your shop is good quality dust collection. If you run a bunch of power tools, it’s hard to argue with the effectiveness of a ducted cyclone system. When I first moved into the new shop, the folks from Clear Vue came down to help me install a new CV1800 cyclone. This 5HP powerhouse features a Leeson motor and a dual stack of Wynn filters.

Because Clear Vue cyclones require some assembly, I thought it would be interesting to show you exactly what’s involved when after the unit arrives at your doorstep.

The cyclone can be installed by one person if required. I know, because I have done it three times. But if you can get help, I highly recommend it. While the cyclone body and blower housing are very light, the motor is incredibly heavy. Lifting the motor overhead onto the wall-mount brackets will test your strength. So I recommend getting some help. Everything else is a simple matter of tightening some bolts, drilling a few screws, and caulking the seams.

For full disclosure, Clear Vue is a sponsor of the show. But if you’ve been following The Wood Whisperer for a while, you know that I’ve been running a Clear Vue cyclone since before The Wood Whisperer ever existed and it’s a product I truly believe in.

Back in January, we discussed Grizzly getting into the track saw game. Predictions were made, claims were refuted, blood was spilled. OK, maybe it wasn’t that bad, but it was very clear that lots of folks were waiting to see how this saw performs. I really don’t have much spare time in my schedule right now but I decided to fast-track (haha, get it? track?) this review so that you can hopefully make a more informed purchase decision, if you happen to be interested in this unit.

The Grizzly T0687 Track Saw retails for $179.95 and the track retails for $49.95, as of April 2013. This price point is the reason why I’m doing this review. At this stage of the game, a new track saw hitting the market at the going rate of $400+ would just be white noise and probably wouldn’t catch my attention. But the fact that folks can potentially know the joys of the track saw world for only $230 is something worth talking about. And here’s a little disclaimer: This is not a complete feature by feature review. Most of you know that’s not how I do things here. I am sure there will be plenty of hardcore reviews for you to enjoy from other publishers in the near future. My goal is to simply give you my thoughts upon initial inspection and use. Nothing more.

The Inevitable ComparisonAs much as I tried to evaulate this tool solely on its own merits, it’s impossible not to draw comparisons between it and other track saws on the market. As a long-time Festool user, most of my comparisons will involve the Festool TS55 and TS75. I did spent a small amount of time with DeWalt’s track saw and even did a review of it back in 2009. So while I admit to being somewhat biased toward the big green machine, I like to think most of you know that I am fair and honest when it comes to tool discussions.

I made several cuts with the saw and evaluated the attributes that are most important to me: build quality, cut quality, and dust collection.

Build Quality:Overall, the saw feels a little “cheap” in my hands. The plastic parts and knobs are rough, square, and not ergonomically designed. This is a minor detail that does not affect performance, but it’s something to consider. While most of the parts on a Festool saw are also plastic, they are molded in such a way they they feel smooth and comfortable.

I had no trouble getting the saw to align on the track with little to no slop. The operation of the cam adjustment knobs is a little clunky, but it didn’t seem to impact setup or prevent me from attaining a slop-free ride.

Speaking of the track, everything looked good to my eye with one exception: a little wobble. I don’t mean the kind of wobble that results from a sloppy fit between the track and the slot in the saw base. This was a wobble that results from rocking the saw back and forth using the handle. When applying downward pressure on the left side of the saw, the right side lifts up off the track, as you can see in the image. Depending on where you place your pressure while sawing, the effective cutting angle will change. This is a problem and I have to imagine this is going to impact cut quality in the long run. And just so you know, I checked both the saw base and the track and neither one is cupped.

I also noticed that the spring is difficult to compress when plunging. Part of the problem lies in the orientation of the handle (perfectly vertical) and the thumb safety release (angled back toward the user). This is going to make it fatiguing to use use this tool for repeated cuts and almost necessitates having two hands on the saw while plunging. Now I realize in the ideal world, we would have two hands on the saw at all times. But anyone who uses a circular saw to cut plywood knows that many cuts will require you to use the saw with one hand. Part of the joy of owning a track saw is the fact that a guided cut makes one-handed operation much safer and predictable. So if you happen to have weak wrists, plunging the saw with one hand is going to range from painful to impossible. To test my assertions, I had Nicole try plunging the saw with one hand a few times. After three plunges, she said “ouch” and added a few expletives to express her displeasure with my experiment and the subsequent pain in her thumb and wrist. Oops.

Cut QualityThe cut quality was acceptable. The included blade is better than what comes with any other circular saw on the market (at least from initial inspection) and competes well with my upgraded Frued blades. After the cut, the keeper piece had a mostly acceptable amount of tearout that could be sanded away. The off-cut didn’t fare quite as well but was still in decent shape. Results are way better than I usually get with my regular circular saw, but not quite the same table saw quality cuts I get from my Festool saws.

Dust CollectionQuite a bit of dust escapes the saw. Fortunately, it doesn’t spew the dust all over the shop like a traditional circular saw. The dust that does escape seems to do so in a very localized way. So there was a nice pile of sawdust sitting on top of the off-cut piece after the cut was complete. Festool saws have nearly perfect dust collection in most situations.

CompatibilityBecause I knew many of you would want to know, I decided to test compatibility between Festool and Grizzly components I had on-hand. While the Grizzly track takes Festool clamps and accessories just fine, it does not accept the Festool saw. Not only is the groove on the saw too small for the guide rail, the blade would wind up cutting into the aluminum track. So that’s a no-go. The Grizzly saw does, however, fit on the Festool track, but the saw blade extends out well beyond the rubber splinter guard. The Grizzly saw freely accepts the standard Festool extractor hose.

Final ThoughtsIf you were hoping to get a $500 saw for $230, you will be disappointed. But if you’re looking to get a capable plunging circular saw with the advantages of a track system and somewhat decent dust collection, I think the Grizzly is an excellent buy. It isn’t going to give you perfect table saw quality cuts, at least as presented, and the low price comes at the expense of some comfort and general build quality. But it will cut plywood with greater accuracy and control than the typical circular saw setup.

The final verdit here is something that could be up for interpretation as there are two ways to look at it. If we compare this saw to the other saws on the market like the Festool, the Grizzly falls short in just about every area. Duh! An important piece of information came from Grizzly themselves when I inquired about this tool back in January. They said (paraphrasing) that comparing their saw to Festool is a little like comparing a Toyota to a Lexus. They both will get you to the store and back but there are key differences between the two brands.

In my opinion, the real comparison we need to make here is not with Festool, or even DeWalt or Makita. Instead, we need to focus on the standard circular saw market. And in that regard, this saw really kicks some butt! I can only compare the experience to my Porter Cable saw that I’ve been using for years now, and this saw and track system outperforms it in just about every way.

Want to Win This Saw?If you’d like an opportunity to win the saw I purchased for testing purposes, simply fill out the form below. One entry per person please.

It’s the time of year for giving so we really kicked things up a notch for December’s Giveaway. Let’s dig in! And be sure to watch the full video so you can see Nicole and our latest addition to the Wood Whisperer cast, the Woodworking Rock Star!

Yonico Router BitsNext we have an incredible set of router bits. Three sets in fact! Our friends at Precisionbits.com. are offering up a straight dado set, a roundover set, and a cove set.

TWW USB SticksTo celebrate a new item in the TWW Store, we are going to give away 2 TWW 8gb USB sticks. We also packed these bad boys with some classic Wood Whisperer episodes for your enjoyment!

Arbortech TURBOPlaneAnd finally, we are giving away an Arbortech TURBOPlane blade! If you ever wanted to get into free-form carving or something like scooping out chair seats, the TURBOPlane is the way to go. Let the Woodworking Rock Star show you how cool it is!

How To EnterTo enter the giveaway, all you have to do is leave comments on our site at TheWoodWhisperer.com!This makes it nice and easy for us to select a winner from all of the comments that come during that month. The more you comment, the better your chances of winning! International entries are welcome. Good luck!!!

The guys over at VerySuperCool Tools recently gave me an opportunity to test out one of their new products: an after-market fence system. The great thing about this unit is that it works perfectly with existing Biesemeyer-style fences. So installation is as simple as dropping it on the rail and performing a standard fence calibration.

Why Should You Care?So is it worth your time and money? Well, if you’re completely happy with your tablesaw fence then it might not be. But if you are having trouble keeping your fence aligned or you are frustrated by a wavy fence face, or maybe your fence is difficult to use with accessories, an after-market fence system like this one just might be the answer to your problems.

What I Like!Bye Bye Wavy Fence!!The stock fence on my Powermatic 2000 is pretty decent. It locks down accurately and dependably and never needs adjustment. I honestly don’t have much to complain about. But there is one little thing that does bother me, although it’s something of a “perfectionist” issue, and that is the waviness of the fence. The fence body is steel and the fence faces are made from UHMW plastic. The faces are held to the body of the fence using metal bolts and at every bolt location there’s a slight dip. This usually doesn’t present a real problem for me as rip cuts will simply glide along the high points. Cross-cuts are also unaffected since I typically reference from a short auxiliary fence. But I often think to myself how nice it would be to have a dead straight fence, and that’s what the VerySuperCool Tools fence gives me. The fence body is made from a 48” piece of extruded aluminum which is not only perfectly straight, but also very lightweight. The fence extends well beyond the back of the saw and even gives me some extra reference surface in front of the table.

Accessorize!Because the extruded aluminum is loaded up with t-tracks, you can do just about anything with some basic hardware. On a traditional fence, you usually have to design accessories that essentially straddle the wide fence body. This really adds an annoying level of complexity to the jig/fixture and prevents many of us from building the best accessories for the job. For instance, there are many times I could have made use of a tall auxiliary fence. Maybe I’m cutting a bevel on a table top or putting a groove into the end of a tall board. Thanks to a healthy dose of laziness, I either make the risky cut with my short fence or simply find an alternative way to do it. But as you’ll see in the video, you can make a nice tall auxiliary fence with a few bolts and a single scrap piece of plywood. Other things I’m looking forward to building are sacrificial fences and a short auxiliary fence for cross-cuts.

One of the owners of the company is Allan Little from AskWoodMan.com and he has a video that shows how you can make your own tenoning jig using this fence system. Now THAT’S an accessory! Check it out:

Bottom LineThis is a solid after-market fence that alleviates many, if not all, of the common problems we confront on traditional tablesaw fences. But there are two minor things that I actually don’t like about the fence. The first, as some of you might have already guessed, is the color. Nothing personal against you Packers fans out there but the green and yellow combination just isn’t working for me, haha. Yeah, 1st world problems and all that. The second minor issue has to do with the handle. My PM2000 handle is a thick tear-drop shape that is very comfortable in my palm. Even when putting a decent amount of downward pressure on the handle, it is never uncomfortable. The VerySuperCool Tools version features a small round plastic ball for a handle. While fully functional and just a minor detail, I do find it rather uncomfortable in use especially when making frequent adjustments.

While I wasn’t actively seeking out a new fence system, I was delighted with this upgrade. Even after doing a demonstration on the show, some products just don’t make it into my regular workflow. This product, however, certainly will. I plan on taking the time to make some accessories and jigs that will surely make shop life easier and safer. Go Packers (I guess)!

For the last few years, Popular Woodworking has been publishing numerous projects within their I Can Do That series. The idea is to provide straightforward project plans that just about anybody can do with a basic set of tools. Back in 2009, with Popular Woodworking’s permission, I decided to build a few of these projects for our Guild members. So this video shows you how to build the Knife Block, designed by Chris Schwarz. It’s a fun little project that makes a great gift, especially if you’re sick of giving people cutting boards as presents! Please note that this video was originally filmed in 2009.

The knife block is one of those practical projects that is a fun diversion from the things we normally make. This video not only covers the construction of the knife block, but also my technique for milling an extra wide board that is too wide for my jointer. This is one of those projects that really shows the need for honing BOTH your hand tool and power tool skills.

You can download the plan here. If you decide to make one, don’t be afraid to deviate from the plan. Change the dimensions, try a different wood species, and heck, maybe even change the shape and the joinery! The sky’s the limit!

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Wed, 14 Nov 2012 16:04:30 GMThttp://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/32954thewoodwhispererthewoodwhispererOnline Charity Tool Auctionhttp://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/32824
After moving my shop several times, it has become clear to me that I have more tools than I can use. Some tools were purchased with the best intentions or on a whim and I just never incorporated them into my workflow. Other tools were given to me for review, provided in exchange for advertising, or simply sent to me in hopes that I might mention them on the show. Whatever their origin, I’d rather see them being used than sitting in my shop collecting dust. Instead of selling these items outright and pocketing the cash, I’m going to auction them off here at TheWoodWhisperer.com and give the proceeds to charity (specifically, Livestrong through Woodworkers Fighting Cancer). I mentioned in a previous post that I won’t have time this year to do a Woodworkers Fighting Cancer charity build, so perhaps this will ease my guilty conscience.

Every day this week, I’ll post a couple of auctions. Each auction will run for a specific period of time and you can place your bid in the comments section. When the auction ends, the comments section will be closed and no further bids will be accepted. Each winner will be expected to cover all shipping costs. International folks, you are welcome to bid but keep in mind how expensive it is to ship the larger/heavier items. If the winner is unable to provide payment, the next highest bid will be selected as the winner.

To help you keep up with all of the auctions, I have created a special auction page where you can get a quick overview and updates: Auction Page

Below you’ll find a list of the items I plan on posting for auction. I may add more as I rummage through the shop. When posted, I’ll include an actual picture of the item and a complete description as well as the approximate retail value. Please refrain from requesting item specifics as those will be provided with each auction and I will be happy to answer any and all questions at that time.

If you’ve been following my blog posts all summer (links at the end of this write-up), you are probably as excited about this video release as I am! Welcome to the Dream Shop Build!

Every woodworker (I think!) dreams of someday being able to construct their own dedicated woodworking space. To date, I have bounced around from garage to garage (about 4 times), making the best of a crappy real estate situation. And while I have been lucky to have fairly large spaces to work in, I still daydreamed about the possibility of designing a shop from the ground up, with both woodworking and video production in mind.

The “Perfect” ShopIn my opinion, the best shop space is a flexible one. I know many folks expected that after setting up my shop so many times, I would be able to design the PERFECT shop space including a finishing room, a dust collection closet, and even some internal walls. But the truth is, the most important lesson I learned over the years was to expect change. My shop is not a static entity. It is more like a living breathing creature that adapts, evolves, grows, shrinks, and changes configuration. Committing to an internal spacial arrangement too early could yield disappointing results. This is why you won’t see me placing dust collection ductwork in the floor. I need to work in a space for at least a few months before I can be confident in my initial setup. Even then, I fully expect things to change at some point. If I made too many restrictive and/or permanent decisions ahead of time, these changes could be difficult or impossible to implement. So my best piece of advice is to forget about the concept of perfection. Instead, focus on flexibility. The ideal shop, in my mind, is little more than 4 walls, a roof, and a butt-load of outlets and lights. So here are some of my basic general goals for my new shop space.

SizeI want the shop to be big! Not only do I have a lot of tools, but I tend to frequently bring tools in for testing. As you probably know by now, I also do a lot of filming. So I need a space big enough to allow for full movement around most of the tools. My tripod has a pretty good-sized footprint and having more room allows me to get the best vantage point possible. More space will also allow me to stage larger pieces of furniture, whether for the show or for jobs I take on locally.

The final size I decided on was 1800 sq. ft. Yeah, that’s big! I actually balked and second guessed myself after we received the estimate from the contractor. Sure, more space is nice, but at what cost? I then asked for a second estimate, bringing the shop down to 1500 sq feet, which is still huge. As you might expect, the savings just weren’t that substantial. By the time you get over 1000 sq. ft., the price per sq. ft. is really low, making it very difficult to justify down-sizing. So I bit the bullet and stayed with my original choice of 1800 sq. ft.

PowerThe more outlets the better! I have a good mix of 220v and 110v outlets throughout the shop. I even included a few in the ceiling and the floor in hopes of avoiding power cords in the walkways. And although this contradicts my previous comments about over-committing, I picked locations that would likely work for various tool configurations. If at some point they don’t work for my setup, I just won’t use them.

LightingEvery shop should have good lighting, whether natural or artificial. My video work dictates limited natural light, so I was sure to have plenty of overhead T8 fixtures (6500k). You’ll hear me mention in the video that I was disappointed to see that the ends of the shop were just a little dark. Thankfully, I was able to get the contractor to come back in and drop in 4 more fixtures for me, two at either end. Now the light is bright, crisp, and evenly distributed from one side of the shop to the other.

Just a quick note about light spectrum. I went with 6500k because that’s what I like to film in. The daylight spectrum makes it easier for me if I decide to open the blinds, letting in some natural light. For the average woodworking shop, I think 5000k is probably a good choice, although some folks really enjoy the crispness of a 6500k light. But you should test them out for yourself to see what you prefer.

BathroomI have to admit that I am very easily distracted. So working from home can be very inefficient. In order to remove my primary excuse for going into the house, the shop would absolutely have to have a bathroom. As you’ll see, I also included a slop sink for various shop cleaning/rinsing needs.

CostNicole and I decided not to go public with the cost of the build. Although we are very open about most things, we are a little uncomfortable about making an expenditure of this magnitude public knowledge. Furthermore, unless you live in the Phoenix area and plan on building the same size shop with the same patio and with all of the same finishing touches and labor requirements, the price isn’t all that helpful to you.

But here’s a quick back-story so you know how things went down. The reason I moved my shop so many times was because the sale of our old house fell through at the last minute. This is the house with the original Wood Whisperer shop/garage. We took the house off the market to recuperate and wait for the market to improve. In the mean time, I decided that I should probably make the best of the shop space that I was already paying for, so that’s why I moved my tools back there. When we eventually put that house back on the market, it sold on the first day. That was a BIG surprise! While we weren’t financially (or mentally) ready to build the new shop, I wasn’t about to lose a chance to get that 2nd mortgage gorilla off my back. So all of our resources went into the sale of the old house and the purchase of my mom’s new place. Truth is, there really wasn’t much left to put toward the new shop. Thanks to some financing wizardry, we made it work. But let’s just say I’ll be paying this off for quite some time!

We did our best to keep costs down, but there was only so much we could do. We needed the shop to go up quickly, which eliminated the prospect of me doing some of the work myself. Additionally, we live in a neighborhood with a homeowner’s association. This means we have very specific restrictions for what we can and can’t do on our property. So the shop must have all of the same finishing touches as our house.

Time to Build StuffOverall I am very happy with the final results and I can’t wait to get back to making sawdust. The first project to be completed in the new shop is going to be a Queen Size Platform Bed for one of my favorite clients. I mentioned in a previous post that one of my goals this year was to get back into doing client work and this is me making good on that promise. I can’t wait to get started!

Of course not everyone needs or wants a space this large, but this was the right move for me. I hope the sharing of my personal experience with you will provide some ideas and inspiration for your own shop, regardless of its size.

Many people are surprised when they find out they can make incredibly beautiful (and large) coves moldings on the tablesaw. I know I was! In this episode, I’ll give you a rundown on the process for creating both symmetrical and asymmetrical coves. I’ll show you several ways to set up for this operation, but my favorite involves the use of a parallelogram jig that was inspired by a Fine Woodworking Article by Stuart Sabol (subscription required). His jig is primarily for setup only, so I figured why not make a jig that would also double as a fence system.

Once you have your coves cut, you’ll need to clean them up. Unfortunately the blade leaves a fairly rough surface. So I’ll show you a few good ways to smooth the surface to perfection.

And I didn’t mention it in the video, but the best blade for this type of operation would be one with a square tooth grind. That should leave you with the cleanest surface. My 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II did a pretty decent job without any square teeth. And here is the link for the program cove calculation program over at FineWoodworking.com: Cove Angle Calculator

The Parallelogram Cove JigI made my jig from 3/4” Baltic Birch plywood and several parts from a Rockler Jig IT Hardware Kit. Here are the dimensions of the jig parts:

Note: This video was recorded in 2009 and was released to Wood Whisperer Guild members. The new structure of the Guild doesn’t really allow for videos on random topics such as this so I am posting it here on the free site. I’ll be releasing numerous videos like this over the next few months. This will be deja vu for long-time Guild members but brand new to everyone else. Enjoy!

As you progress along your woodworking journey, it will become clear that joinery can mean much more than a simple mortise and tenon. When you start to dig a little deeper, you find out that various exotic and mind-boggling joints have been in use for centuries. While some are really good for nothing more than impressing your woodworking friends, some actually serve their intended purpose in amazingly clever ways.

During a trip to the William Ng School in Anaheim, CA, I had the chance to take a joinery tour with both Greene & Greene furniture expert Darrell Peart and the owner of the school William Ng himself. Darrell takes us through various Greene & Greene joints and embellishments including faux ebony splines, ebony plugs, leg indent details, the Blacker Arm Chair parallelogram legs, and bolection inlay. William shows us the Chinese Three-Way Miter, the Bird’s Beak Joint, the Gooseneck Joint, and a Locking Scarf Joint. William then shows us a plant stand he’s working on that incorporates some of these advanced joints.

As most of you know, I have a nice working relationship with Festool. While they are no longer a sponsor, they do give us great tools for our giveaways throughout the year and they also provide me with tools for review purposes. This gives me a unique opportunity to show you how the tool works so you can decide if it’s worth the investment.

I’ll be honest, I have an unhealthy addiction to the green and black. Or is it a really dark blue? And I know I’m not the only one with this affliction! But even if you’re not quite prepared to pull out your credit card just yet, you can at least enjoy the eye-candy of a well-made machine. Not me….the CMS! So here’s a first look at the Festool CMS Router Table.

My goal with this presentation was to show you the three primary functions of the table: edge profiling, end-grain routing with the sliding table and miter gauge, and bearing routing. The system performs well in all three areas but here are a few things that caught my attention, for better or worse.

Sliding TableThe sliding table is the bees knees. Anyone who has used a sliding table on a tablesaw knows how useful and accurate these things can be. They slide along effortlessly with friction-free motion, resulting in the cleanest and most secure cuts possible. So imagine that same concept on a much smaller scale at the router table. Just like at the tablesaw, the slider isn’t a necessity, but it’s a heck of a nice add-on.

Bearing RoutingOne thing I do a lot of in my shop is pattern routing, so anything that makes that process easier and safer is a good thing. Festool includes a separate dust shroud/guard that attaches right to the table and is very effective. Keep in mind that this is a feature that most router tables, to my knowledge, don’t even offer. If you want something like this, you would normally have to make it yourself. Additionally, they came up with a nifty alternative to the traditional index pin. Instead of having a few inches of space between the pin and the spinning bit, Festool gives you a long plastic arm that nestles into the bearing of the bit. This gives you continuous support as you smoothly transition from the support arm to the bit. I am not exaggerating when I say that using a bearing-guided bit has never felt safer! I was quite impressed with this simple feature.

Dust collectionIs anyone surprised that their dust collection is second to none? I’m not. This is just something that you come to expect from Festool. Because the unit collects the dust from above and below, dust collection is about as close to perfect as you can get.

VibrationThis is something I noticed immediately when I first fired up the router: the system has very little vibration. I don’t know if it’s the rubber feet or the little rubber tape strips under the table top, but something is eating up that vibration. I’m not sure how much this ultimately impacts the quality of the work, but less vibration is always a good thing. Get your minds out of the gutter you heathens!

Micro-AdjustmentThis isn’t a negative so much as a missed opportunity. The primary fence has a big old adjustment knob at the back that can be used to push the right side of the fence in and out. This is incredibly helpful when you need to use the router as a quick make-shift jointer. Of course with respect to the road warrior crowd, that’s a killer feature. But to the shop woodworker, it’s a missed opportunity. Sure, some of us might use our router as a jointer, but the vast majority of us already have a jointer. It’s too bad the micro adjustment can’t be applied to the entire fence as well. This could have given Incra a run for their money in terms of micro-adjustment. Instead, it’s a very cool feature that I’ll never use.

PortabilityThe router table comes in two forms: one that attaches to an MFT Table and one that is stand-alone. The version I received was the stand-alone. Because the table is on its own folding stand, you have to expect a little movement. However, the unit never felt unstable in any way. The system is compact and obviously weighs considerably less than a comparable shaper or traditional router table. If stability is a major concern for you, you might consider the MFT-attached version as I hear it is more stable.

UpdateThe Metal BarWithin a few minutes of posting, several folks pointed out the potential obstacle created by the metal bar that holds the featherboards in place. I didn’t provide much commentary about this primarily because I felt it was just too soon. Many safety features initially feel like they are in your way until you learn how to work with them. Tablesaw guards and jointer guards (especially European versions) tend to create a similar situation. So I really didn’t want to pass judgement too soon. Time will tell. I should also point out that in the video, I was using one of my tablesaw push sticks. Clearly not the best tool for the job, but it’s all I had access to at the time.

It’s Your CallWhen I mentioned I would be doing a video on the CMS, I immediately received questions asking how it compares to other comparable router tables on the market and whether it would be worth the typical Festool premium. I am not really prepared to answer this right now as I have only worked with the system for a few days, using test pieces for the sake of demonstration. I’ll know a lot more in six months. Even then, I may not be able to tell you if it is “worth it” for you. Similar to most tools in the Festool lineup, some will find the feature set and quality-level irresistible and invaluable while others will simply balk at the price. Welcome to a phenomenon I like to call, The Festool Polarization.

What I can tell you with confidence is that this unit is every bit as capable as other router table systems we know and love already. Do the extra features justify the extra cost? Well, that depends on how much you value those extras. But rest assured, as with all Festool products, this unit is designed with precision and safety in mind and is made from high quality components. It also integrates seamlessly into pre-existing Festool setups.

If you find that your blades and bits just aren’t performing like they used to, you might not need to send them out for a sharpening. They might just be in desperate need of a good cleaning. Over time, pitch and resin builds up on cutting surfaces and causes them to cut less effectively. If the buildup isn’t removed, the increased friction and heat will accelerate the dulling of the edge and eventually the blade or bit will be toast.

Cleaning AgentsThe cleaning agent I use is a water-based formula from Rockler called Pitch & Resin Remover. I don’t know exactly what it’s made of but it has a pleasant citrusy smell that is reminiscent of citrus cleaners. I have also heard of folks having good luck with another cleaning product called Simple Green. There are plenty of more caustic cleaners and degreasers out there but I don’t find that the extra cleaning power is necessary nor is it fun to work with. In a pinch, I have used soapy water with good results.

CleaningFor router bits, I like to use a small plastic cup to hold the concentrated cleaner. I then drop the router bit into the liquid and let it sit for at least five minutes. More stubborn pitch and resin may require a longer soak. After the soak period I use paper towels, acid brushes, and scotch brite pads depending on how much scrubbing power I need. Take care not to work the sharp edges too much, not only for safety but to avoid unnecessarily dulling the bit. For saw blades, I like to do the same soak method only using a wide shallow plastic bowl.

Once clean, I like to rince the blades and bits with water, followed by a thorough wipe-down with a dry paper towel. Since water likes to hang out in the little nooks and crannies, I like to blow dry the blades and bit just to make sure they are bone dry.

LubricationThe cleaning process no only removes the pitch and resin, but also any beneficial oils that were previously lubricating the tooling surface. In order to help the blades cut cleanly and also prevent rust buildup, we need to lubricate and protect the metal. I like to use Bostik DriCote for this. This aerosol dry lubricant is very easy to apply. After a light coat is applied, I use a paper towel to buff it into the surface.

Simple routine maintenance can save you a lot of time and money. If your blades and bits are clean, they cut more effectively and that translates to better quality results. And without all the pitch and resin on the cutting edge, the edge will stay sharper for longer. That translates to few sharpening sessions. I send my blade and bits to a professional sharpener so anything I can do to lengthen the time between sharpening is welcome!

I’m curious what materials and methods you use to keep your blade and bits nice and clean. Comment below! You can also leave a comment on our website.