This is really a cross between a classic French remoulade and a coleslaw. It’s a lovely fresh, crunchy winter treat that you can serve with, before, or after just about any dish. I particularly like it alongside stew and mash or a shepherd’s pie.

You can use a good ready-made mayonnaise, adding the double dose of mustard, but this home-made version is very quick and much nicer.

Serves 4–6

Ingredients

300g celeriac

200g white cabbage

For the mustard mayonnaise

½ garlic clove

1 tsp cider vinegar

2 large egg yolks

2 tsp English mustard

2 tsp whole-grain mustard

A pinch of sugar

150ml sunflower oil

100ml extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start with the mayonnaise. Crush the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt and put into a bowl with the cider vinegar, egg yolks and both mustards. Add some salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar and stir.

Combine the two oils in a jug. Start whisking them into the egg yolk mixture, a few drops at a time to start with, then in small dashes. You can use an electric whisk or a food processor, but you will still need to trickle slowly and carefully, especially to begin with. Stop when you have a glossy, wobbly mayonnaise.

Taste and add more salt, pepper, sugar, vinegar or mustard if you think it needs it.

Peel the celeriac and cut into very thin matchsticks or julienne, or you can coarsely grate it if you prefer. Stir immediately into the mayonnaise so it doesn’t get a chance to brown.

Remove any damaged outer leaves from the cabbage and trim away any thick stems, then shred very thinly. Stir this into the mayonnaise too. Taste the mixture again to check the seasoning, then serve.

- To make this a slightly more substantial salad, stir through some cooked and cooled Puy lentils.

- Flat-leaf parsley, either coarsely or finely chopped, is another very good addition.