Can this be done? I sure hate all that coolant spilling over the intake manifold gaskets and esp down into that valley where it just sits there. No matter how many rags I stuff in there, it just gets everywhere.

I guess all that's needed is a fitting with shutoff that screws into the coolant neck, replacing the bleed screw? That's a pretty small thread though

Ideally yes. You could always tap the waterneck to allow a larger thread fitting too, but I'd prefer to keep the thread stock to keep it simple.

Of course! A brake bleed screw.. brilliant. For providing the insight and finding a good candidate, you get a THANK YOU

What do you mean by spacer? Is that because the threaded part looks a lot longer than the stock part and this spacer would fill in the gap? And M8x1.0 is the correct thread? PET doesn't give the spec (Stock is part no. 931-106-156-00 )

exactly, that item is listed as a banjo bolt so presumably it's long enough for a banjo fitting.
if you don't fit a banjo fitting you'll need something else approximately that thickness (big nut, or a metal spacer)

Yes the factory coolant bleed screw is M8x1.0. Summit has 2 brake bleeders in that size; can get a set of 5 standard bleeders for ~$12. Might have to stack 2 M8 crush washers, or find a thicker one as the threads don't go all the way to the nut surface.

Yes the factory coolant bleed screw is M8x1.0. Summit has 2 brake bleeders in that size; can get a set of 5 standard bleeders for ~$12. Might have to stack 2 M8 crush washers, or find a thicker one as the threads don't go all the way to the nut surface.

Say, you wouldn't happen to have a part number? I just did a search on Sunset Porsche's site but they don't give the specs for the various bleed screws.

As an aside, I can't help wonder why Porsche didn't put a proper bleeder there just like the brakes? I mean, they made it possible to put a hose while bleeding brakes... and really, anyone do that? I just let it run down the side and wipe; meanwhile, the coolant neck is such a bad spot to drain!

Unless using a hose can mess up the bleed... I guess you need to ensure you keep it up high; not particularly hard to do

What am I missing here?
How does a brake bleed screw stop the flow of coolant when installed in the gooseneck?
What does it close / seat against?

+1000, this thread started with creating a constant bleed system that isnít needed and is ending by adding a hydraulic bleed screw to prevent the engine getting wet when bleeding.

Those hydraulic brake bleed screws are not designed for the purpose intended here, they need a tapered seat to seal against, and is it really such a big problem getting the engine slightly wet with coolant everytime you bleed the system. It does evaporate off the first time you drive it you know and itís not like you do it more than maybe once a year

+1000, this thread started with creating a constant bleed system that isnít needed and is ending by adding a hydraulic bleed screw to prevent the engine getting wet when bleeding.

Those hydraulic brake bleed screws are not designed for the purpose intended here, they need a tapered seat to seal against, and is it really such a big problem getting the engine slightly wet with coolant everytime you bleed the system. It does evaporate off the first time you drive it you know and itís not like you do it more than maybe once a year

Spencer's linked part is described as "Lightweight aluminium banjo bolt with stainless steel valve and rubber cap as used on the Braktec mono bloc front brake caliper." I assume the valve part does the sealing. I started to imagine all brake bleed screws having a ball inside or something; frankly, I never really thought how they work! I think I need to do some more learning on the basics of threaded fittings lol

I have only had successful bleeds when running the process for a while; last time, it took a looong time for the bubbles to stop--to the point of adding more coolant while bleeding. I began to worry about soaking of the intake gaskets.. them being paper now swimming in hot coolant. Then that pool in the "V" between block & balance shaft housing: yes, it burns off, but it leaves nasty residue.

Sure.. I guess not a big deal.. but how much nicer it would be to have a "clean bleed"! For those of us that don't wrench daily, it would be great for things to be a little neater and easier... like pulling spark plug wires... or distributor cap fastening... or oil fill that's a little *closer*.. or easily-accessible AOS seals... or....... I guess the list is quite long on our beauties

+1000, this thread started with creating a constant bleed system that isnít needed and is ending by adding a hydraulic bleed screw to prevent the engine getting wet when bleeding.

Those hydraulic brake bleed screws are not designed for the purpose intended here, they need a tapered seat to seal against, and is it really such a big problem getting the engine slightly wet with coolant everytime you bleed the system. It does evaporate off the first time you drive it you know and itís not like you do it more than maybe once a year

The beeder we would use consists of two parts. The part that screws into the water neck has a npt thread internally for a standard bleeder to screw into so it operates properly. Most auto part stores sell a bleeder repair kit that does just that. The trick is to find one the fits the stock thread. The banjo one above is close but no cigar for me. I'm looking for one similar to this.

The traditional approach. 1/4" Male NPT to M8x1 Male 90* adapter connected to 1/4" Female NPT to 1/4" Male NPT Ball Shut off valve. Together can be sourced for around $20

Thought about this a bit more and would rather use a small fuel shut off valve and a straight adapter for the metric fitting (M8x1 to 1/8" NPT) in this case. Then just connect a hose to the barb during bleeding.