The Graining Fork Nature Preserve, LLC is located just south of Natural Bridge State Park along Kentucky Hwy 11. The preserve consists of approximately 80 acres of land and contains the very popular climbing area called Roadside. After nearly two years of work, Grant Stephens and John Haight created acquired the land and created the preserve in 2004. Their goal was to ensure future access to the great climbing there.

RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE GFNP

Access to the Graining Fork Nature Preserve, LLC requires a permit, which can be obtained from http://grainingfork.org/newpermit/.

Take care of the Preserve. Pack out your trash. You know what to do. Be nice.

By entering the Preserve you agree to indemnify, defend and hold the Preserve, its officers, directors, members, shareholders, agents, assigns and everyone else in the world harmless for your conduct and the conduct of those in your group. You also understand that the preserve and its owners are exempt from any and all liability under the Kentucky Recreational Use Act. You enter the preserve at your own risk. If you do not agree to these terms, or to any of these rules and regulations and enter the Preserve anyway, then you are a trespasser and will be treated as such.

No commercial activities are permitted at the Preserve, including paid guiding. In fact, don't even think for one second that it is OK to guide at the Preserve.

Groups of more than 4 people are discouraged. More than 8 are prohibited.

Do not make any new trails, do not walk off trail, and do not establish any new rock climbing routes (sport) unless you get the express consent of John Haight. You can reach John at www.caverunbikeshop.com.

There is no fire building allowed in the Preserve.

There are no motorized vehicles allowed in the Preserve, including mountain bikes, etc.; all you can do is hike and climb.

Finally, there is no free soloing or unroped climbing in the Preserve. Soloing is a fine activity for those up to the task, just not at the Preserve!

It's a R and you just need to keep that in mind when leading this climb. You are better off climbing slightly abovethe second bolt and using the jug up and to the left to clip the second bolt, as suggested by anticlmber. It's less taxing and the fall is the same if you blow it, i.e., you're belayer will be wearing you as a hat. If you try to clip from below you'll have to pull up more rope and use a shitty hold to clip off. It's a fun route and, fyi, the hardest part is not clipping the second bolt. . .its the anchors.

yeah, and can you tape the holds for me so I know which ones to grab and when? I can't think for myself and I need a guidebook to assure me I'm safe even when I'm trying something "inherently dangerous". even if you do deck out from the second, is that even worth an R? Won't you normally deck if you blow the second on any climb? Or should it get an R because of the pocket you're absolutely going to hit if you blow the anchor clip? Or how about R because of the danger of your fragile brain falling out of your head while your cleaning resulting in a ground fall that broke your leg? Why did Terry not completely sanitize this route for us? What should we do Terry???

i thought this was about the safest "looking" bolted route of all the 10's... also, huge holds to clip the 2nd bolt if you move out left a little bit, and then it's like any other well bolted climb after that.

My buddy fell from right before the chains and smacked the shit out of the tree directly below, could have been a lot worse if he had hit the trunk too. Lesson learned - a dyno to the last hold is not the beta.

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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).