The Filet-O-Fish at McDonald's happened because people didn't eat other meat on Fridays.

And even in northern Indiana on the heels of a brutal winter, there's fish to be had.

A former co-worker, when asked where he ate sushi, said, "Somewhere a lot closer to the ocean." And a lot of folks around these parts still don't believe you should eat fish unless it's been grilled, broiled or fried. But even in Elkhart County, a sushi eater has options these days.

The lakes nearby can provide perch, bluegill and trout to a fisherman. Salmon, tuna and shrimp -- the top three seafoods consumed in the United States -- come from farther away.

I don't eat a lot of tilapia. I don't know where it all originates or how it's grown. That scares me a bit. But mostly I think it's boring. It's become the chicken breast of the fish world -- a blank palette on which to paste other flavors. I'd rather have salmon, tuna or shrimp.

During a brief trip to visit family in Florida, I ate plenty of fish. It's easy in Sarasota and Clearwater where it's fresh and local.

Not everything at Ward's, where they know my brother-in-law well, is local. But the amberjack is from the Gulf of Mexico. The freshwater perch, which an employee said is actually wild tilapia, was cheap and clean-tasting. I dusted it in cornmeal and put it in a pan with olive oil. If all tilapia was that interesting, I'd eat a lot more.

The blackened grouper sandwich at Ward's is one of my favorite meals, particularly when they have those crisp, sweet hush puppies alongside.

If your fish tastes fishy, keep moving. It's probably not fresh. But with flash-freezing techniques and restaurants working hard to get fresh product, the fish you can get here just keeps getting better.

There's a special joy in taking a piece of fresh fish and trying to stay out of its way. What's that mean? Preparing it simply and well. Put it on a grill with salt, olive oil, lemon and garlic and serve it when you can flake it with a fork to test the doneness.

I often preach this sermon during Lent. Not because I'm Catholic, but because I love good fish.

I didn't give up swearing for Lent, but even so I'll avoid swearing by my favorite fish dishes locally.