Finally got around to re-assembling the rear of the Sov. I decided to use a second Tee instead of an elbow off the grey so I could have a clean-out. The little hole in the aluminum plate is so I can run plumbing through there that I will attach in to the side of the small PVC section. Inside the trailer, that will be hooked to an extra 12v water pump I have. With this configuration, I can pump the 16 gallons of grey in to a 50 gallon aux. grey tank I will be installing under the bed. This way I will have roughly 70 gallon grey capacity. The 50 gallon grey under the bed will be plumbed to the kitchen sink, and will have a valve that will dump through to the factory grey. With a secure termination cap on the exit plumbing, I can open the small gray tank valve, turn on the pump, and move the grey water in to the big tank. I will of course test and re-test everything before it is all buttoned up.
Next the bumper and hinged cover go on.

The original had the galvanized pan extended all the way to the bumper. That wonderful design forced water against the back steel plate and rusted out the entire rear end. My redesigned rear storage box prevents the water from getting to the steel cross member supporting the tanks. I still need to put some weep holes in with aluminum screening, because water will get in the compartment. It is a slow process putting it all together, but I am pleased with the results.
I tucked aluminum flashing up under the trailers skin to prevent water from getting anywhere near the new floor. That will be covered with an aluminum panel to attach the rear hatch cover to.

Seen here is the dry fit of the new plumbing. Much easier to work with and if I ever have to remove it... as they say in Latin, "Pro Noblem!"
I will make a rubber gasket to seal the 1/4" gap around the opening to prevent critters and water from coming in.

The original design was a massive plate of rusted metal with holes through it for the pipes to come through, and no way to remove a rusted valve screw if you needed to. I redesigned the entire rear to allow easy access in the event of a valve mishap (now they are new Valterra valves). The tanks are supported by a piece of heavy angle steel with a center support down the middle as well. I reconfigured the galv. pan and cut it back so that water won't force itself in to the pan. The aluminum is screwed in, and removable.

The rear floor is now in place, bolted down, and as not yet shown in the picture, all the cutouts for the tanks are done. Anyone contemplating this project should know... everything takes 10 times longer than you anticipate. Especially if you are working alone.

I saved some tires from my Suburban and bought 4 new steel wheels to have them mounted on. These will never hit the road and are just for moving the trailer around on my property. I have 4 brand new tires on aluminum wheels in storage. The trailer has been up on jack stands for almost 2 years after the axles were installed. Quite a difference in the height as compared to the old axles.

The replacement I built for the trashed ABS single battery box. This will hold three turned the other way. I have plastic bins for the batteries to sit in. There will be an aluminum screen on the inside of the aluminum ventilation port and a sealed and secure lid on top. If anyone is looking for the fittings to pass the wires through, they are called compression cable fittings purchased at Grainger. $2.50 each. I also put a battery shut off on the terminal. This all fits comfortably under the couch I will be building.

The ABS battery box was trashed and I wanted to have more than one battery, so I removed it and built an riveted in an aluminum "Sally Port" to connect to a battery box I built. This port allows plenty of ventilation and drains off any water that may get in. It will have a piece of aluminum screen on the battery box end to keep critters out.