Got my car back today! They replaced the DTML pump.... They also fixed the dent and scratch.
I asked the service consultant if there is a design problem and if a different part was used to replace the DTML pump, he said they replaced it with the same part #.

I then asked him why a new car, apparently with new parts, needs to have the 'new part' replaced, he just gave me some BS as answer!

Can anyone explain why a new car, with new parts, needs to a 'new part' replaced? If the part is already new, then why does it need to be replaced by another new part to fix the problem? What is the logic here?

My Toyota 4runner had 2 stereo head units replacements in its first year. 1st one was made poorly by Pioneer. 2nd one still had issues. 3rd one was the charm.
Shit happens sometimes. And sometimes stuff just fails.

My Toyota 4runner had 2 stereo head units replacements in its first year. 1st one was made poorly by Pioneer. 2nd one still had issues. 3rd one was the charm.
Shit happens sometimes. And sometimes stuff just fails.

True...as long as it does not happen too often! I have a Toyota 4Runner too, it has about 170k km. It never requires any major service, just the regular ones. I was thinking of getting rid of it, but I might just keep it for the winter driving.

Your car looks nice with stuff you added to it. I will do it on my when the problem is fixed.

Actually, it's not uncommon for a small % of electronic parts to experience an "infant mortality" that typically happens in the 1st 60 days of usage. If they don't breakdown in the IM period, they tend to last quite a long time until they reach their maturity and start to fail from essentially "old age". Given the number of parts in our cars and the high reliance on electronics, a certain % is bound to fail. It's just life.

Actually, it's not uncommon for a small % of electronic parts to experience an "infant mortality" that typically happens in the 1st 60 days of usage. If they don't breakdown in the IM period, they tend to last quite a long time until they reach their maturity and start to fail from essentially "old age". Given the number of parts in our cars and the high reliance on electronics, a certain % is bound to fail. It's just life.

You have a 200GB or something drive IN THE NAV. Just plugin a USB key worth of MP3, AAC, into the USB slot passenger side and import (I think you can import/copy from a burned DVD too, but haven't tried). They should have gone over this with you during delivery.

I'll use my phone for now ( I got the cradle).

Going back through some old posts as I have not read this entire thread.

I'm thinking of getting the cradle, but I'm not sure if it will work with my phone case (Otterbox Defender). Does the connector look like it will work with a fairly obtrusive case? I have an alarm clock at home with a dock, but it does not work with this case, and I don't want to give up the protection it affords.

You have a 200GB or something drive IN THE NAV. Just plugin a USB key worth of MP3, AAC, into the USB slot passenger side and import (I think you can import/copy from a burned DVD too, but haven't tried). They should have gone over this with you during delivery.

I'll use my phone for now ( I got the cradle).

Going back through some old posts as I have not read this entire thread.

I'm thinking of getting the cradle, but I'm not sure if it will work with my phone case (Otterbox Defender). Does the connector look like it will work with a fairly obtrusive case? I have an alarm clock at home with a dock, but it does not work with this case, and I don't want to give up the protection it affords.

I have two pairs of 15mm spacers coming in, and i just bought a sheet of Carbon fibre vinyl wrap (going to attempt to cover the piano black centre console), my centre console is completely ruined (accidentally used a vacuum cleaner on it)

Also, has anyone found a good rear diffuser to replace the OEM grey/black plastic one

Still thinking about this mod, but also still contemplating the requirements.

The back should be easy to figure out, the wheels only have to move mostly up and down in the wheel wells, so if they clear, they clear.

In the front, they have to move up and down, as well as doing so through the full turning radius. While I admit those 15s look good pointing straight ahead, I'm a bit scared thinking what might happen on a big bump at full lock.........

Thinking maybe 15 back and 12 front might be a safe bet. Think I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for a bit before I decide :-)

Still thinking about this mod, but also still contemplating the requirements.

The back should be easy to figure out, the wheels only have to move mostly up and down in the wheel wells, so if they clear, they clear.

In the front, they have to move up and down, as well as doing so through the full turning radius. While I admit those 15s look good pointing straight ahead, I'm a bit scared thinking what might happen on a big bump at full lock.........

Thinking maybe 15 back and 12 front might be a safe bet. Think I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for a bit before I decide :-)

Still thinking about this mod, but also still contemplating the requirements.

The back should be easy to figure out, the wheels only have to move mostly up and down in the wheel wells, so if they clear, they clear.

In the front, they have to move up and down, as well as doing so through the full turning radius. While I admit those 15s look good pointing straight ahead, I'm a bit scared thinking what might happen on a big bump at full lock.........

Thinking maybe 15 back and 12 front might be a safe bet. Think I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for a bit before I decide :-)

I wouldn't be too worried about full lock on a big bump. Doesn't happen too often...at least not for me. I have spacers (10 rear, 12 front) and my car is lowered. I haven't had an issue yet. Granted, you do need to be more careful around bumps etc in general. But that goes along with having 19" wheels and with such low profile tires.