Northern California

Established as a dairy ranch in the 1850s, the renovatedbunkhouses and barn today offer quaint, period-styled rooms southof downtown Carmel and overlooking Carmel River Beach. The marshycove at the property's edge is a haven for wildlife, affordingexcellent winter bird-watching.

Seaside exposure: The inn's Restaurant at Mission Ranch(831/625-9040) and surrounding patio offer the best view of thecove; not all rooms have ocean views.

Unexpected pleasure: Six tennis courts and a fitness center,which overlooks the cove.

On the menu: Sunday brunch at the inn's well-knownrestaurant, formerly the ranch's creamery, features performances bylocal jazz musicians. Dinners of prime rib and local salmon arerichly satisfying.

This 1916 Arts and Crafts-style lodge has it all: views, elegantrooms, and meals that alone make the trip worthwhile. The ownershave transformed four once-rustic cottages into romantic hideaways.Each room has a fireplace and feather beds.

Seaside exposure: From the garden, there are stunning viewsof an arched rock and sea stacks; a steep wood staircase leads downto a private pocket of beach.

Unexpected pleasure: In January, bundle up and ease into anAdirondack chair among daffodils in the redesigned garden.

On the menu: In the ocean-view dining room (in Jan, open fordinner Fri-Sat only), full breakfasts and four-course dinners arecreated using products from local farms and the sea.

The main house, a classic early Craftsman, sits on the bluff,but check into one of the Arts and Crafts-style spa suites, and youcan enjoy the sea breezes from your balcony. Oceanfront cottagesboast cathedral ceilings and picture windows.

Seaside exposure: It's a short walk down to a wind-shelteredcove and Greenwood State Beach.

Unexpected pleasure: Enjoy massages at the inn's day spa,complete with a jetted tub and an aromatherapy steam shower andsauna; a full bar serves 25 types of martinis in the inn'ssignature Z-stemmed glasses.

On the menu: Breakfast favorites are hearty ― thinkFrench toast and pasta-vegetable frittatas ― and dinner isavailable Wednesday through Sunday. You can also have dinner in Elkat Bridget Dolan's Public and Dinnerhouse (closed Wed/Thur;707/877-1820).

B&B BargainAn inn with a twist ― each room is furnished in aregional theme (the Denmark room has a dry sauna). Most have anocean-view balcony. When it's stormy, just curl up by the fire― or in the spa tub by the window ― and watch the seafoam.

This inn with quiet, classic, contemporary rooms feels asprivate and luxurious as an ocean liner ― only bigger. Fallasleep in the glow of the city skyline reflecting across SanFrancisco Bay; in the morning, luxuriate on your own private deckas sailboats glide by.

Seaside exposure: The only way to get closer to the baywould be to dive in; rooms jut out over the water, affording primeviews of the Bay Bridge, Angel Island, and Alcatraz plus passingkayakers.