The heft of this roaster comes with the hefty price of about $160. We rationalize the purchase this way: it is a once-in-life purchase, a special treat, or maybe something for the wedding registry. If you do a lot of roasting, you'll find that this pan indispensable. Splurge on one of these once and you won't be on the market for a roasting pan again in a long, long time.

The pan's thick base keeps the heat even and the pan has not warped, even when the pan goes right on the stove to make gravy (though the experts over at Cook's Illustrated report "a tendency to warp slightly on the stovetop" in their test kitchen). The pan is easy to clean and has kept its sparking shine so far.

This roaster is taller than many others. All-Clad says the height reduces spattering. The height also means plenty of room under the rack to roast vegetables and let them soak in all the drippings.

Tina Turner's song continues: "It's the time you leave me I start losing control." Totally true. When testing the All-Clad side by side with a roasting pan of lesser quality, this All Clad heavy weight does give the cook more control. The All Clad is nine pounds of stainless steel. The pan stays put as cooks baste and take the temperature of their roasting birds. Some might find the pan, the rack, plus two chickens and stuffing too be too heavy, others will find the heft and industrial strength handles reassuring.

There's an All-Clad lasagna pan that looks similar and is just $99, but it does not come with a rack. Many reviewers say this pan is of lesser quality.

Old-fashioned enamel roasters are our pick for more affordable roasting, especially when a lid is required. What are you using to roast?