It was a strange session...After one complete month without surf because of successive tempest, forecasts seemed good : 2.5m (small compared to the previous weeks...) and SE wind.

It was cold. Water was everywhere

Because of the swell, I went to the north expected people. But, first surprise, I was alone. Tempests have attacked the bech ; evrything has been transformed. I couldn't recognized anything. The coast lost 10m !

The wind was stronger and souther than forecasted. I bearly came back. but a remote peak seemed to be good. And it was...

I got 3 good tubes (enter and exit). So not my best session but it was worth it.

Today session was excellent. Small check at the cold sunrise. Tibok and the crew weren't still at the parking. I have discovered this :

No need to draw : it was just perfect : a long right was peeling around the sandban, 1.5m to 2m, 200m long. Fast but not too much, an easy paddle. I knew I needed to take my semi gun.

When I saw this, I have started to run back to the parking...

I meet the crew on the parkin. I told them just to avoid the check and to jump into their wetsuit. I discovered that I forgot my leash at home. f... . Hopedully Dahomey gave me one.Then I snaked everybody to be the first in the water : I ran to the beach and was alone at the peak. My first wave was a bomb : a 200m backside rush.

After we were around 20 surfers but there was a lot of waves.

After 2 hours, the wind changed and waves were deteriorated (but still good)

The swell was coming in. I decided to avoid the know spots on the north coast to avoid the crowd. I went to this semi-secret spot which rarely worked. And I was rewarded : a beautiful windy wave was there. I stayed in the water (9°C!) for 2h30mn. The first section was the most interesting (1,20m hollow) and it was mellow after. I was very happy to surf this spot with those waves.

With Dahomey and his buddy CHris , we hesitated to go to check the ocean : was the swell twisted by the wind ? Will the swell saturate the surf spot ? Finally,
we decided to leave ( well. . Was tried as Dahomey had forgotten his wetsuit and it took him to find a replacement ... ) .

Arrived on the Gurp around 12 pm , it's big but not yet saturated . Noone in the water and plenty of locals watching . The best thing is not to think too much and we went to the water in a semblance of channel . Bingo, we are behind the waves. !
I took one board 7'3" and it seemed like a 6'4 ". I immediately take 2
waves : it is strange because the take-off is engaged but doable. After the size doubled and took at least one third in size! at the
end of wave 2 tubes waited for me but it was so big that I was too impressed to try them.
Caught in the impact zone , I see CHris who took off late , the wave doubled behind him (go over 2.5m - 3m) and he escaped into the wall. It is hairy. ! Wave grows, adrenaline too . Dahomey
get punished on a long take off. Then it's my turn : late take off ,
the nose straight into the wave and I'm atomized ( I hear my neck vertebrae
crack ) . We managed to take a few waves and swell continued to grow . Water movements wer impressive.

A series swept us , it was probably a good 4m: Dahomey and I were in the impact zone . Silence. Me , I admit I was scared. After one three quarter we went out: the session seemed to last only 10 minutes because it was so intense!

Here are some pictures of average quality but representative : hu, hollow isn't it ?

The winter came early this year : low temperature since two weeks. It's the same weather than in february !

The swell was long : 12s and the sandbanks were hard to find. I went to surf with Zitoune. We started near the shore with fun waves then we went further to the north to surf outside banks (15min of paddle).

On the outside banks, I found powerful and fast right. I was at the entry of the tubes 2 times. I got also on big left (the only one). The tube was so big and large that I was afraid and preferred to fall.

I just came back with a longer board to make easier the take off. On the 4 waves, only 3 were good but very good. The best one was the bomb (a small 2 m) : I just took off at the critical part of the wave, nearly fall, then did the bottom... It was hollow said the others !

This morning, it was a good surprise : waves were breaking at les roches blanches with only 2 surfers. After the madness of the last 2 days, it was good to surf with no pressure. The spot worked at hight tide. I felt several time on the boulders with no hurts...

I came very early in the water : before the sunrise. But locals were there too. As waves were rare and the locals were good (that's mean they took off literally on the rocks) and they protected each others for the take off, I couldn't caught any wave. Only 2 in one hour. Of course I can't blame locals as they ripped but I was just very frustrated... No a good session.

No waves this morning then the swell came in at lunch. I have started to surf with 1m high waves then the swell increased up to 2m. Waves were powerful and very long. The only problem was the crowd : excellent local competitors, excellent locals, standup competitors from the world cup at la torche.... 50 surfers in the water ! So I was happy to surf at least 8 waves !

On one wave : I was at the enter of the tube and people were crying...

I went to surf with my daughter. She just had a shorty !!! She took 4 long waves. Then I went to surf but waves were bad. A big swell is announced (6m) but i's not sure if it will succeed to go inside the bay...

After a surf with the kids (5...) I went in the water but the wind was crosshore and strong. Waves became bad. I just took few and prefered to go out. 30mn after, it became better. I was just at the wrong time :-(

I went to Le Gurp with Dahomey but Luke Egan told us that it was crowded and the waves were not so big. We went to montalivet but waves seems nearly only close outs. I was at first in a bad mood : bad spot, bad waves, not in a good shape, fallen on all my first waves...

But as the session went on, I started to surf better :

- one big and long left with a large tube ! My best ride since 2 monthes
- one short punchy right with good top turns (see photos)
- one big bomb right : my second best wave after the left

Between two rendez-vous, at lunch, I went to have a short sessio : it was just PERFECT. 6 on a very good peak (right-left), 1.5m with opening face. I score a big hollow right and carve a wonderful left...

Whaou, It was a good aftrenoon of surf : 1.20m - 1.50m on the biggest. It wasn't very good at the very low tide as waves were a little to fast. But the tide sterted to get higher it turned into a waves machine. Nearly every waves barreled. On my 43 waves, only 30% were very good but very very good !

I got barreled 5 times backside,

It was a little crowded but everyone stayed cool and we ahev talked a lot : a very good afternoon !

I went to surf with Loig and Matthieu. The swell was so long that nearly all the waves were close outs. But it was possible to surf. Nothing special but a good moment in the water. I felt the cold at the end of the session : autumn is coming...