2013 Rockshox Revelation pushloc buggered help please

my 2013 revs have a crappy New style pushloc, everytime a drop of water gets near it it becomes sticky, and today it became stuck and wouldn't budge.....took it apart and the inside of the button seems to have snapped on a tiny piece of plastic

really peed off, only 2 months old...I don't want a pushloc anymore as I refuse to pay for another one to do the sane again

is there anyway of making it a crown lockout without Changing the assembly etc?

ahh sorry bruneep you must have edited that before i posted the last question

cheers for the info....so as ive now got nothing on my right hand leg (dial wise) can i just bung the blue dial thing back on without the cable/remote and turn it manually? will it lock in place still though?

really am peev'd with it, just a pile of crap...that XLOC hydraulic version looks much better like the reverb, but again its just something else to go wrong!

i think ill see what loco says and go from there as im done with the remote now

Read this with interest as I've a new set with the new pushloc and planned to run them without it. But the spring is in the assembly and its normally closed so that won't work. Was thinking of removing the internal spring - anyone tried that? Is it possible?

I've also just bought a pair of 2013 Revelation RLT's with the new style pushloc. I didn't actually want the pushloc but the forks were going cheap. I assumed I could just not fit the push lock, but didn't realise the spring keeps the forks locked so you basically have to use the push lock.

Initially, I plan to put a gear cable inner into the top cap so that the nipple is held by the end stop that normally holds the outer of the pushloc cable. Then I can twist the blue knob to the unlocked position (under tension of the spring) and tighten the grub screw down on the cable, thus fixing the blue knob in the unlocked position.

Ideally I would like to be able to lock and unlock manually by removing the spring, as suggested by bruneep. I've read elsewhere that you can also add an o-ring to provide a bit of friction so that the knob stays where you put it.

My question is, once it is modified, does the springless blue knob then behave exactly the same as a proper manual blue knob (apart from being harder to turn because it doesn't have the little lever on)? It looks to me like the blue knob on the pushloc version only turns about an 1/8th of a turn to go from locked to unlocked. Is that the same as the proper manual lever does?

Initially, I plan to put a gear cable inner into the top cap so that the nipple is held by the end stop that normally holds the outer of the pushloc cable. Then I can twist the blue knob to the unlocked position (under tension of the spring) and tighten the grub screw down on the cable, thus fixing the blue knob in the unlocked position.

Can't comment on the rest but this is exactly what I have done and it works well. I too am planning on eventually removing the spring though so interested in the replies.

Haryuken - i used a gear cable housing ferrule, trimmed slightly that fits into the black clamp around the blue dial, inserted an old gear cable that still had the metal stop attached and then threaded the cable through took up the tension so fork was completely open and then did up grub screw. Will post a pic tonight and it should all make more sense