Gingerbread was invited to every open house. Eggnog was the toast of the town. Escarole, endive, radicchio? Shut-ins of the crisper bin. No wonder they’re bitter.

And misunderstood. Most greens celebrate spring, summer or fall. In winter, escarole is ready to roll. Radicchio too: the darker the days, the brighter the leaves; the colder the weather, the sweeter the crop.

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So invite a bunch. Curly frisee, creamy endive, unruly escarole and tender radicchio can be braised mellow. Or simply torn and tossed. The fresh flavor and crisp crunch offer a welcome respite from the heavy lifting of beef Wellington. The bitter bite can be balm to the sugar-shocked. And the leaves, even when sharpened with mustard and sweetened with honey, are sturdy enough to linger all night long.