If your cat is pregnant or you’ve come upon a foster or stray cat who may be expecting, you might wonder how long cats stay pregnant. How long cats are pregnant for can vary, but is usually about the same general average. Learn how long your cat should stay pregnant for, as well as how to help your cat get through all five stages of cat pregnancy.

How to Tell When Your Cat Got Pregnant

Before knowing how long your female cat should stay pregnant, you first need to know when the pregnancy occurred. You can figure this out in multiple ways. If your cat was purposefully mated (not recommended unless you are a professional cat breeder), then you should know the time period in which your cat became impregnated. Other ways to tell involve knowing when your cat was in heat and/or when she may have mated without your knowledge or by accident. If you are observant of your cat, these will be obvious. Queen (female) cats can actually be impregnated by multiple tomcats (males) at the same time if all of them were successfully mated with during the same heat cycle. Therefore, cats born in the same litter can potentially have different fathers.

Should I Mate My Cat?

Most cities have laws requiring a female cat to be spayed (and a male cat neutered) once they reach a certain age, but there are exceptions or instances in which this doesn’t happen, such as an illness that guards against spaying, the cat is not yet old enough, or you came upon an already-pregnant stray, and so on. Also, licensed professional breeders are able to mate cats. Cats can get pregnant as early as 4 months of age, even though many don‘t get their heat cycles until 6 months and are not spayed until this stage.

How Long Are Cats Pregnant For?

Assuming you know when your cat became pregnant, she should be pregnant for about 58 to 72 days on average. Different experts will give different dates. This is the average between those dates. If you are unsure, pay attention to the five stages of cat labor to estimate around when your cat might deliver and how many days might be left in your cat’s pregnancy. A pregnant cat should also be taken to the vet to ensure a healthy pregnancy. The vet will be able to tell you a more accurate number, regarding when your cat might deliver.

Cat Pregnancy Stage One: Fertilization

This is the stage when your queen successfully mates with one or more tomcats. You may or may not be aware of the exact timing of this stage, depending upon the circumstance. Spaying and neutering cats can help responsible pet parents take as much control over this situation as possible. As soon as your cat is 6 months of age, she should be spayed. But if you’re learning about how long cats are pregnant, you may already have missed this window and have a pregnant cat.

Cat Pregnancy Stage Two: Early Cat Pregnancy

Stage two of your cat’s pregnancy is when you should notice there is something going on with your female cat. Your queen may experience morning sickness during her pregnancy and this is the stage when that would appear. You may also visibly notice her appetite increasing after her nausea subsides. It is perfectly normal for her to eat less in the very beginning when her morning sickness is at its worst. By the third week of pregnancy, this should give way to that appetite increase. It is also during this third week that you might notice lumps (kittens) forming and be able to feel them.

Cat Pregnancy Stage Three: Middle Cat Pregnancy

During the middle stage of a cat’s pregnancy (week 4 and on), she will start to gain weight much more visibly. By the end of this stage, it will be difficult not to tell she is expecting a litter of kittens. They will be moving around and you can feel (and even see) them do it! Your cat’s vet may suggest a radiographic x-ray or an ultrasound to take a look at the kittens, as well as to count how many there are. The vet will know which of these is best for your cat and for her unique situation.

Cat Pregnancy Stage Four: Pre-Labor

When estimating how long your cat should be pregnant, it is also important to know the signs of pre-labor. This will help ensure you and your cat are prepared when she delivers her kittens. In the week prior to active labor, your cat will start looking for hiding places to have her kittens. A pregnant cat can be picky on where she has her babies, so don’t be upset if she doesn’t choose the spot you created. It will be easier if she does, but is not required.

The most important thing is that your pregnant cat is happy and calm during labor. Watch where she goes and try to place nesting boxes in those places. In telling how long your cat will be pregnant, you can also observe your cat’s appetite. She may stop eating a couple days prior to labor. This should alert you to how many days are left in your cat’s pregnancy.

Cat Pregnancy Stage Five: Labor & Delivery

This is the stage when your cat is in active labor and birthing her kittens. You may or may not be present for this, as many cats prefer to do this in hiding. If your cat wants help, she will ask you by coming to you or yowling for you during. In the instance that you get to witness this, signs of labor in your cat include licking genitals, pacing, breathing hard, noises of discomfort, acting anxious, and more. It should be obvious what is going on, but if not, it will be when the first kitten arrives!

Preparing Your Cat for the Birth of Kittens

You should begin preparing your cat for labor and delivery around the early stages of cat pregnancy to be sure your cat knows where to potentially go. If you do not know when your cat became pregnant, but you are seeing the signs, it’s best to help your cat prepare for the birth early. You should also take your cat to the vet right away to make sure her and her kittens are doing well.

Prep your cat with a safe hiding place equipped with a comfy box and soft blankets. She may or may not choose your spot but you can try to convince her by showing her as many times as necessary and staying away from the spot so that she knows she is safe. Most cats prefer to labor alone. However, when the time comes, if she does want you to help, it will be obvious.

You will also need some emergency birthing supplies, as well as your vet’s phone number handy, in case of emergency. In most cases, your queen should be able to handle everything herself. But in the event she does not, ask your vet for a cat-safe antiseptic. You should also have scissors for the umbilical cords, surgical gloves for any handling of the mom or kittens during labor delivery, dental floss for ties, sterile eye-droppers in case aspiration of eyes, nose, and mouth is needed, clean towels, and kitten milk replacer (just in case your mom cat is unable to nurse the babies or refuses to) with kitten bottles.

Once you have figured out how long your cat should be pregnant, there is some prepping to do. You should also buy extra food! Beyond the preparation and getting your cat to the vet, once your pregnant cat has her babies, enjoy! Also, be sure to talk to your vet about proper kitten care and rehoming procedures. You should now know a bit more about how long your cat will be pregnant, the stages of her pregnancy, and what to expect. Now, relax, get to the vet, and enjoy loving on your pregnant queen!

What You Should Know About Growing and Feeding German Shepherd Puppies

German Shepherd puppies tend to be very endearing. They’re very receptive and sensitive to love and affection. One of the best ways to show your new puppy affection is to feed him or her the best possible food. How do you know what the best dog food is for a German Shepherd puppy? We’ll guide you on the importance of a good, balanced diet for your puppy.

Know the Potential Health Problems for German Shepherds

German Shepherds are prone to a number of specific health problems including bloating, conditions of the skin, and hip dysplasia. You should always make sure to have fresh water available. Allowing them to eat too much can result in excessive weight gain, which leads to health issues.

This breed will shed year round due to their thick coat. While this is normal, it is important to make sure that your German Shepherd gets a proper diet to keep their coat healthy. Otherwise, your dog may overshed which can lead to skin conditions.

Bloat can be fatal to German Shepherds. This condition, known as GVD or gastric dilation-volvulus, affects large breeds of dogs happens when there's too much water, food or air in the stomach. Blood vessels in the abdomen are obstructed causing twists and swelling in the stomach. Internal organs can be damaged, shock can set in and blood pressure can drop. The condition is usually fatal.

Understanding the Best Diet for Your German Shepherd

Believe it or not, it’s a common mistake for puppies to be fed too much dog food. It’s also common to give puppies bad quality food or food that is not adequate for that breed’s particular dietary needs. Also, puppies need to be fed in a particular way at each stage of their development, from newborn, to one month, to two months, to four months, and finally six months.

To give your dog the best chance at not developing health problems, you want to know the best dog food for a German Shepherd puppy. Don’t just go out and buy the first dog food that you see or the dog food with the lowest price. Be sure to know the particular dietary needs of the German Shepherd breed before making your buying choices. Here are tips to help you with feeding your young German Shepherd.

How to Feed a German Shepherd Puppy

Feeding a German Shepherd puppy is done in stages from birth to a year old. German Shepherd puppy food should provide energy, nutrients and vitamins to prevent medical issues and provide optimal health. You want to avoid overfeeding, and introducing the next stages of diet to early in order to keep your German Shepherd puppy healthy and their growth on track.

What is the Best Diet for a German Shepherd Puppy?

The market offers both dry and wet food for dogs, while vets recommend that puppies be started on wet food following weaning. Your puppy is used to processing the milk from his mother. There is approximately eighty percent water content in wet dog food which helps to keep puppies properly hydrated.

Newborn German Shepherd Puppy Diet

Newborn German shepherd puppies should be fed approximately four small meals through the day until they reach about six months of age. Meals should be divided because puppies will eat up anything you give them, which can result in making them sick. Dry food should not be introduced until the puppy is twelve weeks old.

One Month Old German Shepherd Puppy Diet

Newborn puppies get breast milk. Then, at two to four weeks new flavors are introduced, such as wet food. Ninety percent of the puppy’s immunities come from the mother’s milk. When new flavors are introduced, they should be special wet food.

Two Month Old German Shepherd Puppy Diet

Six to eight week old puppies can have dry food that has been moistened either with water or chicken stock that has not been seasoned. At this age being to decrease the moistening of the food gradually until it is completely dry. You will still be feeding your puppy up to five times per day; only leave the food for ten minutes as this is enough for the puppy to eat the food. The age of three months is when the food should be supplemented with kibble increasingly.

Four Month Old German Shepherd Puppy Diet

Begin reducing the feedings to three times per day. The amount of food offered should increase at meal times with additional time given to eat.

Six Month Old German Shepherd Puppy Diet

German Shepherd feedings should be down to twice a day at this age. Your puppy should be given bones that are shatterproof to strengthen gums and teeth.

At any age, you should avoid overfeeding your puppy, as it can lead to excessive weight gain.

What to Feed a German Shepherd Puppy

When feeding a puppy, there are four key things that you need to watch in their food. These things are protein, carbohydrates, fat, and vitamins & minerals.

Protein

When you are feeding any puppy, protein is required for the development of strong muscles, growth of organs and tissues. The puppy’s body will most effectively be able to metabolize protein sourced from animals.

Carbohydrates

The best puppy diet should provide energy in the form of carbohydrates. When you use carbohydrates derived from grains, your puppy gets fiber to allow him to feel full and aid in the production of healthy bacteria in the gut.

Fat

Do not worry about having a fat puppy. Their diet benefits from fat as it is converted into glucose which provides energy. Fats also make the skin and coat are healthier and helps the body absorb vitamins better from the food that is eaten.

Vitamins and minerals

Any good dog food should contain the right amounts of vitamins and minerals, which are an essential part of the German Shepherd diet. Make sure that your puppy gets the right amount, but not too much. Too many vitamins and minerals can be poisonous to your German Shepherd puppy.

If you ever wonder if a particular dog food product is good for your dog, be sure to read the nutrition facts on the package. Then, ask your local vet if that is the best food for your dog. If not, your vet will give you guidance on the best and correct food to purchase for your dog. Feed your puppy right, and you will enjoy each other’s company for years to come.

Author Bio:Stacey Carroll is the author of the thriller series - Avia. She also authors the paranormal erotica series - The Blooddoll Factory. Stacey grew up in Indianapolis, Indiana. she went to college at Indiana State University (ISU) and graduated with a Bachelor's degree in aerospace in the professional pilot program. She has flown Cessna 152s, Cessna 172s, the Pipe Seneca and the King Air. She also graduated with a minor in computer science that specialized in web design.

She has always been interested in reading and writing, and the first book she was ever read was the Grimms Brother's Fairy tales. From the ages of 6 to 11, she read the Nancy Drew series. By the age of 11, she had graduated to Stephen King novels. A few of her favorites include Carrie, Tommyknockers, The Dark Tower Series up to book 3 (That's where it stopped in the late 80s/ early 90s), Pet Semetary, The Shining, Night Shift, The Stand, It, Cujo, Christine, The Eyes of the Dragon and Thinner (Richard Bachman). In her teen years, she moved on to Anne Rice and got through about four of those books before they degraded. If you've ever read Anne Rice, you know book 5 isn't readable. Stacey has read a couple Harry Potter books as she was introduced to them in the early 2000s, and she's never read or watched anything Twilight or 50 Shades. Sorry. I'm a vampire purist, and nothing needs to be said about the latter. You already know.

She is currently an author and freelance writer. She received an honorable mention in Alfred Hitchcock's Mystery Magazine in 2008 for a short story entitled The Field. In 2014, she was published in 13 Stories by Us by MacKenzie Publishing.

There are many types of treats to choose from when considering organic options. Every dog likes something different and different occasions may call for different treats. Here are the top organic dog treats and their general uses and ingredients.

Dental Chews

This type of organic dog treats is great for dog owners who need a hand in caring for their dog's mouth. Look for ingredients that are healthy for your pet's teeth.

Biscuits

These usually have meat and veggies, sometimes fruits. Look for any that are natural or organic. Dogs love the crunchy texture and will gobble up the best smelling ones.

Soft Chews

These are usually bite sized and flavored with things like chicken, peanut butter, or apple. Dogs like these because they are fun to chew but can be devoured in one bite as well. These are great as trick rewards.

Jerky

Organic dog jerky can be a healthier alternative to some of the other treats because it is usually just dehydrated meat, fruits, and vegetables.

Bones

Most dogs enjoy bones and these are god when you need to keep them busy with a treat for a long period of time. Organic are the best, as they are generally made of only healthy ingredients.

Cookies

Cookies can be similar to biscuits, but are usually a different shape and sometimes other textures. They are generally flavored with fruits and veggies, peanut butter, and sometimes meat. These are good for when your dog is performing tricks.

Rawhide

For some dogs, rawhide is another good option for busy time. These organic dog treats have a different texture from bones and are also good for your dog's teeth.

When adopting a cat you have to adjust your home to their needs. Otherwise, the cats might get bored, start scratching your furniture and start knocking stuff off the dresser and shelves. However, this doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your own personal space for the sake of your feline friend; you simply have to find the balance, create safe environment and provide some entertainment.

Photo (c) Elise Morgan

Safety First

Even though cats tend to take care of themselves, you have to provide some safety for your cats; especially if that is their new surroundings. Install cat flaps on few of the doors so you can provide them a safe way to go outside and get back in. Also, install safety locks on cabinets and doors to keep the cats from reaching for cleaning products, food or dangerous appliances. If you have any toxic plants and chemicals in your home, small fragile objects or any items that could present a choking hazard, make sure to get rid of all those and keep your pet safe.

Play Zone

Cats are pretty active and they are natural explorers. Any new terrain or area will catch their curiosity and they will spend a lot of time climbing and jumping up and down in your home. Sometimes, all this energy and curiosity could lead to a lot of mess in your house, so make sure to provide plenty of space for play. Place several tall scratching posts, set up high shelves on the walls reserved just for the cats and add a few ramps and walkways to keep your cat busy. Also, don’t forget to have enough toys lying around the floor so they would catch the cat’s attention and entertain her.

Photos (c) Elise Morgan

Comfort

It is well known that cats can spend more than 18 hours a day sleeping, so make sure your home is comfortable enough. All of them will prefer a soft and warm place where they can rest without being disturbed. Observe the places where you cat likes sleeping the most and think about placing several comfortable cat beds around the house. Usually, those places will be near the heater, radiators or right in front of the windows where it is usually sunny. Additionally, your cats will feel more comfortable if their beds have familiar scents, so put your linen or a shirt to cover the bed and provide a safe place for your cat to rest.

Give Them Privacy

Cats value their privacy and they are usually not as social as dogs. They will desire their time alone, and they are quite shy when it comes to their bathroom time or eating. Your job here is to provide a safe place for their litter box where they are isolated and alone so they wouldn’t be disturbed. Their food bowl should be always accessible and visible, but still in an isolated area.

About the Author:

Elise is an ordinary girl with an extraordinary life that she shares with her 8 pets. She is a health and fitness fanatic who adores hiking, long bicycle rides, paragliding and all sorts of extreme sports. After all, she did spend hundreds of hours in the air. She loves writing about health, beauty, adventures, experiences and life in general.

Chihuahuas make loving and affectionate pets. They're generally low-maintenance and even rather inexpensive to feed due to their small size. However, health problems may be a major concern and expense of Chihuahua ownership. Here are some common health problems experienced by Chihuahuas and ways to avoid them when selecting or interacting with your Chihuahua.

Poor eyesight.Like most toy breeds, some Chihuahuas have problems with their eyes. At first, you may notice your pet experiencing trouble when seeing during specific times of the day (just in daylight or just at night). Eventually, this can progress into total blindness.

Collapsing trachea. Many new Chihuahua owners are terrified upon hearing a Chihuahua cough rather violently. The severity of it shakes the dog's entire body. This is caused by a collapsing trachea. With this condition, a dog has trouble breathing when active or excited (and Chihuahuas love to bounce around and get very happy when their owners come home).Dummies.com suggeststhat smokers cease smoking around Chihuahuas because the smoke settles near a Chihuahua's height (the smoke can worsen difficult breathing).

Petellar luxation. This condition describes disruption in the hind legs around the knee. When this occurs, the kneecap can slip. This causes lameness and pain (your dog may yelp or have trouble walking). Veterinarians can treat severe cases with surgery.

Hypoglycemia. As with people, dogs can be hypoglycemic. This is especially prevalent in small dogs like Chihuahuas. Hypoglycemic dogs may experience loss of appetite and seizures. You can try to control hypoglycemia by feeding your Chihuahua a sugary food when the dog exhibits symptoms (syrup, honey or vanilla ice cream), but avoid chocolate, which is toxic to dogs. Providing more meals in smaller portions may also help your pet.

When selecting a Chihuahua, keep these items in mind. Teacup Chihuahuas and smaller members of the breed are often at increased risk for health problems. Look for a social and active member of the litter or consider a Chi mix to avoid health problems.

If your Chihuahua exhibits any concerning behaviors or if you believe your dog may have a health problem, consult a veterinarian.

This overview is not meant to be used for diagnosis and is informative in nature only.

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

So you want to share your time with a Chihuahua. Congratulations! Chihuahuas are wonderful companion pets and lap dogs. Known for their loyalty and attachment to one individual, Chihuahuas are generally pretty low-maintenance but do require a great deal of attention and attendance to possible health issues.Chihuahuas (or "Chis" as they are known affectionately to their owners) come in two varieties: long and short hair. Here are some things to consider when deciding between these types.Allergies. Many people are allergic to dogs. The actual cause of the allergy is pet dander. Both long and short hair dog varieties produce dander. Some allergy sufferers learn that they are more allergic to one type of hair than the other, so preference may depend upon the person. To reduce allergic reactions to Chihuahuas, maintain their coats and brush them frequently. Vacuum often, especially around short haired dogs. Chihuahua owners suffering from allergies should also train their dogs--while it's usually innocent for a small dog to jump up and climb on a person, a Chihuahua can inadvertently trigger an allergy attack if too close to the face.Environment and climate. Chihuahuas come from Chihuahua, Mexico. They've adapted to that type of environment--often warm, hot and sunny. They're also small dogs and they get cold very easily. If you're in a hot climate, it may be more practical to own a Chihuahua with short hair. Conversely, dogs with long hair do better in colder environments. Regardless, it's always best to keep an eye on your dog during hot or cold weather conditions to ensure her comfort and safety--bring some extra water along when traveling in hot months, and during cold seasons don't forget the Chi sweater!Maintenance. If time and money are a concern, consider the maintenance costs of your new best friend. Chihuahuas incur vet costs like any other dog, but they eat comparatively little, they are easy to entertain and if you own a short hair, grooming is simple. You can brush the short hair dog at home. Depending on the demeanor of the dog, you may wish to take the long hair Chi to the groomer on occasion, but generally you can brush their coats at home, too. Occasionally, long hair Chihuahuas will encounter additional problems--matted fur, feces stuck on tail or weeds and outdoor objects tangled in the fur.Aesthetic. Most Chihuahuas are adorable, but what type of dog do you prefer? Long hair Chis are sometimes considered cuter, especially as puppies, because they are fluffier and softer to the touch.Before purchasing a Chihuahua, do some research on the advantages and disadvantages of each coat; also discuss the options with other members of your family.Do you prefer long or short haired Chihuahuas?

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

Chihuahuas are enjoyable pets--small dogs with large personalities! Like all dogs, Chihuahuas require occasional bathing. Your Chihuahua's bath frequency may depend upon whether she goes outdoors. Also, short hair Chis usually require bathing less than long hair Chis, mainly because baths keep the long hair tame.If your Chihuahua is new to bathing or exhibits skittish behavior, you can do some things to make his experience enjoyable. Here are some tips:

Let your dog smell gloves, shampoo, your sink, towels and any other items you'll be using as you wash your Chihuahua. Dogs perceive very strongly through smell, so it will help your dog if you give her a chance to examine the bathing implements before using them.

Try bathing your dog in a small area, such as a sink with a non-slip mat in it. The mat will help your dog feel more stable as you wash her.

Bathe your Chihuahua once per week or less. If you bathe him frequently, use a medicated shampoo.

If your Chihuahua is particularly affectionate, wrap him in a towel and carry him about a bit. This is a dry alternative to roughing up his fur.

Mind the temperature. Chis are really sensitive to the cold. Limit baths in cold temperatures and if you do bathe your dog during winter, make sure she relieves herself before her bath so she does not have to go outside wet and in the cold.

Chihuahuas are skittish but love to be clean and pretty. If you make bathing a routine with a reward, your dog may come to look forward to the experience. You can reward your dog with a small treat after his bath. Praise him and deliver affection over his clean, beautiful coat.Do you have more tips for bathing Chihuahuas? Please leave them below.

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

Chihuahuas are known for their major attitudes and small bodies. A Chihuahua may adopt a Napoleon Complex around other dogs and display overt signs of dominance.

Since Chihuahuas are small, this can result in some safety hazards for them. All it takes is one bite or swipe from a larger dog to send the Chi to the vet. Here are some tips for socializing your Chihuahua by introducing her to new people and dogs:

Puppy play. If possible, introduce your Chihuahua to other dogs while he is still a puppy, ideally between eight and twelve weeks of age.

Pay attention to your dog's demeanor. She'll let you know if she's intimidated or uncomfortable when meeting others. If that's the case, you'll need to introduce her more gradually to new places, people and animals.

Enforce consistency and patterns. If your dog does well meeting other people and animals at the park, establish a routine. Dogs adapt well to their owners' routines and your Chihuahua will enjoy the brief exercise and socialization. Find out what works and make it consistent.

Paws, claws, rear and teeth. Dogs are particularly protective over certain parts of their bodies. As puppies are pet, they become accustomed to people touching them around the sensitive eyes and ears. When your Chi is young or new to the family, make a habit out of touching his mouth, rump, paws and nails. If he is reluctant, reward him with a small treat for behaving while you do this. This will help with visits to the vet and can prevent an accident in case a child ever reaches for the dog with quick movements. Your Chihuahua's vet and groomer (if you have a long-haired Chi) will also be grateful.

Larger dogs and children. Chihuahuas should always socialize with larger dogs and children under supervised conditions only. It's easy for larger creatures to step on a Chihuahua or unintentionally initiate play that is too rough for the dog.

Introductions on leash. Always introduce your dog to other animals while he is leashed. This reinforces your leadership role and makes your Chihuahua feel comfortable. Larger dogs should also be leashed during introduction for safety and control.

Positive reinforcement works very well with Chihuahuas since they love attention! Reward your dog's positive social behavior with affection and treats. If using treats frequently, be sure to adjust your Chi's meals; you don't want her to become overweight and develop health issues.

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

Well-adjusted Chihuahuas are curious by nature. Like little kids, they love to explore new and familiar environments--and even indoors, the occasional bug becomes part of those places. There are many substances poisonous to dogs, and with Chihuahuas it's a particular concern because they are so small. Are bugs poisonous to Chihuahuas?There areseveral bugsthat are harmful to dogs due to bite or sting. You can probably guess most of them--they're detrimental to human health, as well.Aside from bees, snakes and black widow spiders, dogs shouldn't consume caterpillars or centipedes. These bugs can be even more dangerous to dogs suffering from a more severe health condition.Dogs are usually more likely to get into other harmful things likehousehold chemicalsand cleaners, chocolate and pesticides.If your dog has ingested a bug or other substance and exhibits signs of illness, observe your dog and call the vet. Check your household chemicals to see what the dog might have consumed if it wasn't organic.

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

Chihuahuas and other small breeds are especially prone to dental problems. While dogs have heartier teeth than humans, they're still afflicted by dental problems such as gingivitis and plaque. Diet and prevention can help your dog maintain healthy dental hygiene without costly trips to the vet.

Chihuahuas are small, but they have needle-like teeth that hurt when they bite. You can prevent bites and frustration by helping your dog get used to the ritual of tooth-brushing. Begin by petting your dog and touching her mouth. Eventually, touch your Chihuahua's mouth and teeth.

Before you attempt to brush your Chihuahua's teeth, let her smell, inspect and lick the toothbrush and toothpaste. Remember, your dog's primary sense is his sense of smell; he'll be more comfortable with the objects after a proper introduction.

This practice can also deter food aggression and will help you safely retrieve any forbidden or harmful objects from your dog's mouth.

Good Dog, Bad Breath

If your Chihuahua has bad breath, it means she's past due for a brushing. As in humans, lingering bacteria in the mouth causes a nasty, unpleasant odor. While 'dog breath' is normal, particularly odorous breath is indicative of potential decay.

Your dog's family, friends and veterinarian will also appreciate the lack of odor after brushing has occurred.

Ultimately, senior Chihuahuas may need to eat wet food because of the fragility of their teeth. More wet food and table scraps means more brushing for your dog. Wet food and table scraps can also lead to obesity in Chihuahuas.

Brushing Teeth

Many pet owners dread brushing their animals' teeth, but over time it becomes a manageable process. A finger brush (available from your vet or most pet stores) is most effective--especially on a Chihuahua since her mouth is small. Don't forget to use toothpaste for dogs as well.

Chihuahuas start to show age after about a decade of life. While most live 13-15 years, they can live up to 18 years in good health. Dogs experience many of the same health problems and signs of aging that people can reach later in life including weight gain or loss, tooth loss and difficulty seeing or hearing.

Signs of Aging

Because Chihuahuas are usually pretty small and energetic, it's easy to forget that they age just like dogs and other animals. As your dog ages, it's important to be aware of the signs. A change in stage of life can represent a need for an altered diet, vet check-up and activity level.

Common signs of aging in dogs include:

Lethargy

Limping

Change in amount of food consumed

Common Problems for Senior Chihuahuas

Some of the signs of aging can point to medical conditions frequently experienced by older Chihuahuas. These include:

Back problems (such as slipped discs generated after years of leaping onto furniture)

Keeping Your Dog Safe and Healthy

You can help your Chihuahua live a long and happy life by keeping his weight in the appropriate range (as determined by your pet's veterinarian). Your dog's vet may also recommend dietary supplements and a change to senior dog food, which is formulated to provide nutrition for older dogs.

Even if your senior Chihuahua doesn't have dental problems, it's a good idea to save for a dental cleaning to prevent pain and sensitivity. Regular cleanings can prevent further problems.

This post was originally published on Examiner.com as Chihuahua Examiner. Republished with permission of the author.

Whether at the dog park or out for a walk around the neighborhood with your dog, it's likely that you will eventually encounter a dog that shows aggression towards you or your pet. In some situations, the aggression is obvious as soon as you encounter the dog. In other circumstances, dogs appear to suddenly decide they don't get along and a fight begins. I take my Boxer Odin on walks regularly, and we've encountered aggressive dogs in a few situations. This is what I've learned from those encounters.

Recognize Body Language

To prevent encounters with aggressive dogs, you should learn how to recognize signs of aggression. This is really important for me, because Odin always wants to immediately play with another dog, but that other dog doesn't necessarily want to play with him. I have to deliberately pace Odin's greeting and make sure he doesn't get too playful at initial encounter.

During that greeting, I am always aware of the other dog's body language. Before a dog outright growls or snarls, he usually displays cautious movements and offers others a look that seems to say 'stay away.' The dog may also cower near his owner or look scared, which can lead to defensive, fear aggressive behavior.

When we encounter a dog like this, I use the leash to guide Odin back and make him sit by my side. Before allowing Odin to initiate greeting with another dog, I always ask the other dog's owner if that dog is friendly and playful.

Know Your Own Dog

Each dog will react differently towards aggressive animals. Some dogs will lunge at dogs who show aggression; others will become confused. Odin is the latter type of dog. He prefers to defend me, but sometimes he'll look up at me and yelp in confusion if an aggressive dog is near. This happens frequently when the aggressive dog is behind a fence. Because we are not in immediate danger, I take the time to show my dog that I'm the leader, walking confidently past the gated animal. Sometimes Odin will follow my lead and adapt the same demeanor; other times he still freaks out a bit. When this happens, I calmly and assertively tug at his collar until he follows along, eyes ahead instead of looking at the aggressive animal we've passed.

Preventing an Encounter

Sometimes, you will have the opportunity to avoid an aggressive dog. If this is the case, take the opportunity. There is no reason you should risk the safety of yourself, your dog, or the other dog. In our old neighborhood, there lived two aggressive dogs. When walking Odin, I simply turned around or walked on the other side of the street to avoid provoking the aggressive dogs. This also reinforced the fact that I was the leader and in charge of the walk, and after switching things up a few times, I noticed Odin more easily adapted my calm attitude and seemed to trust my judgment more on walks.

Protect Yourself

In the event of an aggressive dog attack, protect yourself first. Call 9-1-1, try to remain calm, and do not turn your back on the aggressive dog. Avoid making eye contact with the attacking dog and do not show it your teeth - that includes smiling. Avoid yelling at the dog or punching back. If taken to the ground, curl up, ball your fists, and use your arms to cover your head until help arrives.

Unfortunately, not all aggressive dog encounters are preventable. We used to live next door to a family that owned an aggressive dog. While we had a fence between our yards, their dog would still bark and snarl. To avoid fights and to keep the noise level down for our other neighbors, we would arrange a schedule with the neighbors to ensure that neither dog was out in the fenced-in yard while the other was present.

If you ever encounter an unleashed dog (aggressive or not), you should contact your local animal control center to prevent injury to people and animals. You can also access immediate assistance through your local police department.

This article was originally published on the Yahoo Contributor Network.

Anole lizards are very common in the wild. Many people have them in their homes as pets. You can also find them in many pet stores. Most of the anoles you find in pet stores are caught in the wild. Once you have decided you'd like to observe and care for an anole as a pet, you should learn basic lizard care. Here, you will learn more about how to care for an anole lizard as a pet.

Choosing and creating the proper cage/enclosure for a pet anole lizard

To find out what size cage you will need for your pet lizard, measure or estimate the length of your anole from the tip of it's mouth to the tip of its tail. The cage should be at least twice that length and at least the same length as your anole in width. A proper anole cage should either have fluorescent lighting or be placed in an area that is well-lit from the sun during the day. However, avoid sun lamps and heating lamps, as these can bake your anole. If you live in a warm, humid climate, you may opt for a plastic cage, rather than a glass aquarium, and keep your anole outside, thus eliminating the need for the lamp.

Once you have chosen your cage, you will need to make it into a home for your lizard. First, put regular, non-fertilized potting soil into the bottom of the cage. Slightly dampen the soil until it is moist, but not muddy or clay-like. This is an area that not all pet-care professionals agree on. Some recommend the soil and others will recommend a substrate made up of small wood chips or even specially-formulated substrate just for reptiles. With experience, I have found that the anoles prefer the soil. Many professionals have also agreed with me. This is closer to the ground cover they will experience in the wild.

Next, put in a few rocks, twigs, and leafy branches for the anole to perch on, hide under, and climb on. Small logs are ideal as well. Avoid heated rocks and logs. These will cook your poor anoles. At least one twig or branch should extend from the bottom to the top all the way across the cage. This helps the anole feel like it is in its natural environment. Anoles enjoy climbing and perching. Leafy branches are especially ideal for the extending twig, as it will help to make the anole feel like it is in a tree.

If you have more than one anole, your cage size will need to increase dramatically or the lizards will harm or even kill each other. For two lizards, the cage should be at the very least, the size of a 10 gallon fish tank, although that is relatively small, so a larger size would be ideal. For three, you would need an even larger tank. Think of it like this. For each lizard, add in space that equals at least the size of a ten gallon tank. More would be even better.

What can anole lizards eat?

Anole lizards enjoy crickets, spiders, cockroaches, and some other arthropods. Anoles cannot eat potato bugs, centipedes, or millipedes. Whatever food you decide upon, be sure the insect size is no larger than half the size of your anole's head. Through experience, I have discovered that most anoles prefer crickets and spiders. Spiders are a favorite, but since spiders are good escape artists and I don't want them in the house, I use spiders as a treat whenever I see one. Since I use them in this way, as soon as I stick one in the cage, the lizards will immediately eat it.

If you'd rather not catch any of your pet's food, crickets can be bought from most pet stores and also from cricket farms online. The most I have paid for a batch of crickets was five dollars and that included about 100 crickets, plus shipping and handling. You don’t need to purchase this many at once, if you don’t want to. However, if you order online, they generally come in large batches.

How often do anoles eat?

Anoles need to eat every day. Some anoles may only consume one insect per day. Others will consume three or more. This will depend on what type of insects your lizard is eating and upon the individual lizard's appetite.

Start by placing five insects in the cage the first day. If there are any left at the end of the day, that was probably too many. Reduce the amount by one until there are none left at the end of the day. That will give you the correct amount. I also like to give a spider for a treat every other night if I find one. If you have more than one lizard, your first amount should be five insects per lizard.

Where do I keep the crickets?

I have discovered that if I keep the crickets in the same cage with the anole/s, they die sooner because they require different conditions. If you'd like to make your crickets last as long as possible until they need to be eaten, keep them in a small plastic cage or enclosure with breathing holes. Stock this enclosure with only cricket food, 2 egg sections torn off of a cardboard egg carton, dry soil or wood chips, and a bottle cap full of water. They enjoy hiding under the egg carton piece. It also provides a good area for them to nest, thus creating more food for your anole lizard.

If your crickets are lasting a long time, be sure to remember to clean their cage and keep their water dish full. Keep an extra plastic container to transfer them to while you clean the other. Prepare the new plastic container the same way as the other one. Once the other one is clean, keep it for the next cage cleaning. This way, you only need to transfer them once during each cleaning.

Do anoles require a water dish?

No. They do need to drink water. However, anoles, especially those who are wild-caught, prefer to drink their water from leaves and branches. Mist the leaves and branches in their cage every day. This will leave behind water that they can sip.

Daily maintenance

Anoles need to be kept moist. They are used to a tropical environment. If the inside of the cage is not humid, you'll need to mist your lizard once per day. To do this , simply mist a spray bottle onto your lizard from the top of the cage. Make sure the spray bottle is on the mist setting, as the lizard will not like it on the spray setting.

If you see any droppings on the soil, scoop it out with a spoon. If the droppings are on the leaves, throw out the leaves and replace them with fresh ones. Observe your lizard in its cage. Watch to see what he or she does. This may help you later on if your lizard is sick or dying.

How can I hold my anole?

If you would like to handle your anole, you can remove the lizard from the cage with gloves or a small net. Be gentle. Never pick up your anole (or any lizard) by the tail. Like most lizards, this will cause the tail to break away. This is a natural defense mechanism and the tail will usually grow back.

Be very still and allow your anole to move around freely on your hand or arm. This will help your pet lizard feel more comfortable with you. Grabbing the anole too much can do the opposite. Let the reptile naturally become used to climbing on you. Repeat the process daily for best results, extending or decreasing time, according to the comfort of your anole.

Can I have more than one anole in the same cage?

Females can be in the same cage together. One male and one female can be in the same cage together. However, two males may not be in the same cage together. They will fight and possibly kill or eat each other. Do not put more than one female in the same cage with a male. The females may fight over the male until one or both females die.

How do I clean the cage?

An anole's cage should be cleaned once a week. However if you have more than one anole, you'll want to do it more often. First, catch the lizard with a small reptile net and place it into a plastic container with a cover and air holes. Take out the branches, leaves, logs, and rocks. Clean the rocks by rubbing under warm water with baking soda. Rinse thoroughly. Air dry.

If the other items are natural (which is preferred), the logs can be rinsed well under hot water and air dried. The twigs, leaves, and branches can be replaced. Dump the soil into your garden and clean out the cage with vinegar and dish soap. Once the cage is clean and has been air dried, place more soil in the bottom and re-create your lizard's home with the rocks, branches, leaves, and twigs.

What colors do anoles come in?

Anoles are naturally either green or brown. However, green anoles can turn brown and brown anoles can turn green. Whatever color your anole is the majority of the time, that's it’s natural color. If you see a black anole, leave it alone. Do not touch it. See below for details.

Why is my anole turning black?

Anoles turn black for two reasons. The first reason is extreme stress. If an anole gets too stressed out or scared, it will turn black. If your anole turns black while you are interacting with him or her, this likely means that you have stressed the poor creature out.

The second reason an anole may turn black is because it is injured, sick, or dying. When an anole has been injured or gets sick, it will turn a very dark brown or black. If your anole also has spots around its eyes, this is a sign of impending death and/or extreme sickness. If this is the case, do not handle the animal because you may get sick, too. Instead, contact a veterinarian.

Why does my anole seem to be having trouble moving around?

If your anole seems to be weak or dragging its legs, you may not be feeding it enough. This is usually a sign of starvation. However, if there are visible injuries, starvation is obviously not the problem. In either case, contact the vet.

Can My Anole Give Me Salmonella?

There is a small risk of salmonella with raising lizards. However, it is equivalent to the amount of exposure from a young chicken. Just remember to thoroughly wash your hands each time you touch the cage, the lizards, or anything in, around, or on the cage.

What Is That Red Thing Coming Down From My Anole's Neck?

Male anoles have what is called a dewflap. It resembles a beard. It's a red flap that protrudes from the anole's neck whenever it feels stressed or threatened.

What If My Anole Dies?

It will be very sad when your anole dies. You may want to do a proper burial or you may not care. However, it is important to remember that if your anole died, it may have been sick. If you open that cage and touch anything inside, you could become ill as well. Call an animal removal specialist to handle it.

As the weather gets cold, pet parents are reminded once again to keep pets inside on cold days. Your fur friends can easily be prone to all sorts of hazards, even death, once the weather isn’t so sunny.

Remember that, while your pet has fur, once the weather drops to a certain point, that is no longer enough to keep your furry family member safe from the elements. Cold weather can cause hypothermia, respiratory issues, frostbite, and even death.

The stories and warnings you hear each winter are not rare or overly cautious. Each cold season, pets are affected by the harsh elements, and (if left out too long) die. You don't want to find out the hard way what could happen when pets are exposed to cold weather too long.

While your pet may seem okay outdoors on a cold day, don’t take that as an indicator that he can stay out for long periods of time. Of course, animals like dogs should be let out for potty breaks. They may also be able to play outdoors some and should take walks, depending on how cold it is. But take caution and don’t leave them in cold weather for too long.

You may want to keep your cat inside during the entirety of the cold patch, due to the fact that cats can quickly run off. If you can’t find your cat to bring him or her inside on time, freezing to death is a possibility.

Smaller animals, animals with coarse fur, or animals with short hair are more prone to getting cold than others. If they must go out, be sure to make use of a sweater and booties to keep in the heat, as well as to help prevent frostbite. This won’t allow your pet to stay out for extended periods of time in weather that is too cold. However, it will be helpful during exercise or bathroom breaks.

We’ve all seen those ads and commercials on how quickly animals and babies can die in a heated car. The same is true in an environment that is too cold.

Your dog has been puffing his cheeks out and you’re probably wondering why. There are actually a few reasons this might happen. Some could be a cause for warning, while others may not be so serious. Learn how to tell why your dog is puffing their cheeks and/or huffing and what you should do about it.

What is Puffing?

Puffing is when your dog exhales rapidly, causing the cheeks to puff out.

What is Huffing?

Huffing is when your dog is growling or barking with a low noise and puffing out or vibrating cheeks.

Dog Puffing Cheeks Randomly

If your dog is randomly puffing their cheeks or huffing, this may not always be serious, but it could be. What seems random may actually have a cause and not be random at all. Pay attention to what your dog is doing directly before and after puffing her cheeks. Is there a cough or sneeze? Does your dog seem stressed? What events are going on during the cheek puffing sessions? Is there a growl or low bark in conjunction with the huffing? Any of those additional factors may indicate stress or illness. If stress is the factor, remove your dog from the situation that is causing problems. Puffing cheeks in a stressful situation is usually a precursor to aggression. If there are illness indicators, like coughing, sneezing, or choking, call your vet immediately.

Dog Puffing Cheeks in Communication With Other Dogs

Dogs might occasionally puff their cheeks or be huffing in a playful manner with other dogs. However, for most dogs, this is actually not a good thing. Puffing cheeks when interacting with other dogs can be a sign that one or both of the dogs is ready to attack. This is generally what dogs do while letting out a warning growl or snarling just before they attack. If you ever see your dog huffing or puffing at another dog, keep him or her at a safe distance from the other animal and vacate the situation immediately. The same goes for when you see another dog act this way toward your dog.

Dog Puffing Cheeks at Kids or Adults

As in instances with other dogs, puffing cheeks directly at humans is generally a warning sign. This means your dog feels threatened, stressed, or unhappy about something or someone and is likely ready to attack. Remove the person or dog from the situation immediately. If not, the dog is likely to attack the person being targeted with this negative form of communication. Sometimes, this may be a playful gesture, but most of the time it is dangerous and nowhere close to playful. Teaching kids how to interactwith dogs can help prevent some of these situations in the future.

Dog Puffing Cheeks While Sneezing or Coughing

If your dog is puffing out his or her cheeks while sneezing or coughing, this may be an indicator of illness or choking. Contact your vet immediately for the best advice. Some dogs will puff out their cheeks and sneeze or cough to dislodge an object that is obstructing the airways or the nose. Some dogs will also do this when they have a cold or other infection or illness. Only a veterinarian can tell you for sure what’s wrong with your dog and waiting too long for this advice can be dangerous or even fatal.

More Warning Signs to Look For When Your Dog is Puffing Cheeks or Huffing

Huffing and Puffing Together

Growling or Snarling (Especially When Showing Teeth)

Aggressive Barking

Hair Raising/Puffing Up

Crouching Aggressively (ready to attack)

Coughing

Sneezing

Choking

Panting Heavily

Looking Lethargic

Hiding

Stiff and Still Tail

Any Other Aggressive Behavior

Any Other Medical Symptoms

How to Prevent Cheek Puffing in Dogs

Cheek puffing due to illness can be best prevented by taking your dog to the vet regularly and as soon as any medical symptoms arise. This won’t prevent every situation, but catching issues early can help prevent them from worsening over time and causing more harm.

Aggressive cheek puffing is generally a behavioral or stress issue. Using positive pet parenting and avoiding negative training methods can go a long way. Also, learn what your dog needs directly from him. If you know what stresses your dog out, you can more easily avoid issues. If you have children, again teaching them how to interact with dogs can help prevent many stressful and dangerous situations for your dog and child.

The Burmese Python and other exotic snakes have been getting bad press coverage lately in South Florida. I have decided to investigate the actual meaning of being a responsible owner of one of these exotic snakes. I found many interesting website that will educate a new snake owner. These snakes need special types of housing and care, so the new owner must be prepared to accommodate their growing needs.Knowledge is Power Before buying the snake, a person needs to consider the expenses associated with buying these exotic animals. The animal will require veterinarian care, special housing, live animals, and so much more as they grow. Take time to study and know what type of snake that you are interested in owning. Many new snake owners buy the snake as a baby and don't realize how big they can become. In the right conditions and housing, these exotic snakes can grow to an enormous size and length.
Veterinarian Care Every year or so, the snake will need a check-up or other medical care, but emergencies will pop up from Time to time as well. Take time, before purchasing a snake and find a vet that is able to treat reptiles like snake and lizards. Not every veterinarian will offer this type of care, but the potential snake owner should look around for a local vet that offers this specialized care. Ask other reptile owners and pet shop personnel about the veterinarian that tends to their reptiles.

Special Housing The snake will need an escape proof wooden cage that will allow the snake to grow for several years before having to be replaces. Most people build their own reptile enclosure, but they must be sure to consult a reptile cage building website before attempting to build one. An owner should never use a standard fish aquarium for housing, because the snake can escape once it grows bigger and stronger. The snake should have clean housing as well, in order to keep the snake from getting sick.

Live Animals Snakes will eat small animals several times a week, but the amount will be based on their size and weight. They eat live rabbit and rats, which can cost the owner a lot of money after they begin to grow larger. These animals can be purchased at a local pet shop, but some snake owner breed their own small animals to cut the cost down. However, if an owner is squeamish they may not be able to handle feeding the snake live animals.Conclusion An exotic snake requires special care, as well as a responsible owner who can give them the proper care that they need. The potential snake owner should do his or her homework and interact with other snake owners. The snake will need the new owner to provide proper medical care, escape-proof housing, and live animals for the snake to stay healthy. However, this type of care can get expensive, so the potential snake owner should weigh the cost before making the purchase.Reference: Personal Experience

Is it fair to charge pet owners? Is it fair for a pet owner to pay a fee to apartment or house owner, which is usually some sort of deposit is paid to the landlord. Many families own many different types of pets like: dogs, cats, birds, fish, lizards, and snakes as pets. However, they love their pets and are not willing to part with them, so they are willing to pay a pet deposit. Many rentals advertise no pets in the newspaper, because they don’t want any kind of pet within the home.Animals can dirty a home As an animal lover, I believe it is fair to charge a pet deposit, because certain animals may dirty up the home or carpet. Unfortunately, pets can ruin carpets and chew on furniture, as well as the pet giving off an odor. The animal may have a disease or fleas, which is another reason the landlords ask for a pet deposit. This will help the owner of the house or apartment to fix whatever is caused by owning pets of any kind.Animals may give off an odor Rodents like a hamster or guinea pig can have an awful smelling cage, no matter how often you clean out your rodent’s cage. Reptiles and amphibians can have a foul smelling odor, if the cage is not cleaned regularly. Plus, dogs and cats may smell awful, if they aren’t bathed regularly and their breath may smell. In order to get rid of the smelly breath, you can always try brushing the dog’s teeth and feed them snacks that help clean up their mouth.But they can’t part with them No matter what, the pet owner doesn’t want to part with their beloved pet. Many pet parents are willing to pay the pet deposit, in order to keep the animals with them. Pet parents consider the animal as one of their children, which means the parent will do anything for their pet. The landlords can always count on a pet parent to pay a pet deposit before moving in their new place. Pet Deposit will allow the pet owner to bring their beloved companion with them as they get settled in their new home.Pet deposit is fair In my opinion, as a pet parent, I believe the new landlord has every right to ask for a pet deposit. The landlord will usually get the deposit before renting their house or apartment to a new family with pets of any kind. Additionally, I think the people with pets should be willing to pay a one time or monthly pet deposit. Therefore, I believe that the practice of collecting a pet deposit is fair and helps both the renter and the landlord.

The popular Nylabone company has recalled one lot of the 1.69 oz. package of Puppy Starter Kit Puppy Chew products. There is a possible risk of salmonella contamination. Therefore, these treats should not be given to your puppy. The risk does extend to humans as well.

Any animal, including humans, who directly touches a product infected with salmonella should wash hands immediately after said contact. If hands are not thoroughly washed or the product is ingested, contamination is possible. Any human or animal who has come into contact with the product and exhibits the symptoms of salmonella contamination should seek immediate medical attention.

Symptoms of salmonella contamination include:

LethargyFeverDiarrheaBloody StoolsVomitingNauseaAbdominal CrampingRarer, more serious conditions that can be caused by Salmonella contamination include:

Turn over the package and look at the best by date stamped on the back near the bottom (as pictured above and below). If the best by date is 3/22/18, your product is affected. If you cannot clearly see the best by date,you can also check the lot number and bar code for this information: Lot #21935, UPC 0-18214-81291-3. If this information matches your packaging, this product is recalled and may be contaminated with salmonella. Discontinue use of this product right away and return it to the place of purchase for a full refund. Do not throw the product in the trash, as it is contaminated and needs to be disposed of properly.

For questions, dial the Nylabone company at 1-877-273-7527, Monday through Friday from 8:00 am – 5:00 pm Central time (after hours/weekends covered by third-party poison control center).

A lot of our problems with cats stem from the fact that they're hard to train. When you try discipline and punishment, we usually succeed in just making them afraid of us. Then, we come home from work to find new claw marks on the sofa, or more things knocked off the table and counters. Now what?

One thing that increasing numbers of experts are saying is to let your cat's environment do the talking. Basically, you want to make your furniture, or your counters, places your cats just don't want to be. For instance, you could put crinkled aluminum foil on tabletops and countertops. The next time your cat jumps up there, the foil will feel strange and crunch loudly, startling them. You're nowhere around; they don't associate this unpleasant experience with you. They associate it with the environment. It makes them want to avoid that part of their environment.

You can also use double-sided tape on your upholstered furniture, where your cat likes to scratch. Cats really don't like touching very sticky surfaces like that, and this can help them to stop using your sofa as a scratching post. Here, too, you're having their environment provide the negative experience.

But this isn't quite enough; your cat has natural instincts that he can't just turn off. Those instincts involve scratching, exploring, and climbing. So you need to be available to not only show your cat acceptable outlets for those instincts, but provide the positive reinforcement for those places.

The first thing you should do is buy or build cat trees and cat shelves. KatWallks has a great selection of shelves and perches for your cat, which gives him vertical territory, as well as horizontal territory, in your house. Shelves take up less space and can be more versatile than cat trees, because you don't need an elaborate set-up to give your cat some really high perches.

Cat trees, on the other hand, might be easier for you and they're definitely better for window perches because you can put more perches in front of fewer windows. Cat trees also come with built in scratching posts.

Ultimately, how you provide vertical territory and acceptable scratching surfaces depends on what works best for your house and your situation. To get your cats to use these in place of counters, tables, and sofas, put treats on some of them, and give your cat a trail of treats to follow. Then let him explore. He'll associate the treats with the climbing surfaces, and develop positive associations. You'll also want to give him gentle affection, such as praise and strokes or scratches on his favorite places, when he goes where you want him to. This will let him know that you consider these acceptable places for him to climb, scratch, and lounge to his heart's content, which will help to reduce his stress and maintain harmony in your home.

Eve-Angeline Mitchell is an experienced writer and blogger, and an animal rights and welfare advocate. She has been writing about cats, from pet cats to feral cats, to the history between cats and people, and even about bit cats, on Examiner.com for four years. She is also an avid do-it-yourselfer when it comes to home improvement and enjoys learning how to do new things.

By Eve-Angeline Mitchell, Contributing WriterWhether you have a cat, a dog, or another furry pet, grooming is a necessary part of caring for them. This is especially true for pets with longer fur, which gets tangled and matted easily. Mats form very close to the skin, are uncomfortable for cats and dogs, and attract and trap dirt, bits of plants, dead skin, and even bugs, so it's important that you keep their fur brushed and tangle-free. Here are some of the best tools for the job, whether your pet has long or short fur.

Flea CombFlea combs are good because they have finer teeth that can pull tangles apart. In addition to that, they can help to pull burrs out of your pet's fur. Finally, if you're having a flea problem, these combs can help you brush the fleas out of their fur while you're waiting for their flea medicine to work, or in between flea dips.

Pin Brush/Slicker BrushThese brushes have fine metal "pins" that are very good for pulling dead fur and loose tangles, or newly forming mats, out of your pet's coat. These are good brushes for both long haired and short haired pets, because they catch the dead undercoat better than a comb.

De-Shedding ToolThis is either a Furminator-type comb, or a combination de-matting rake and Furminator-type comb, and are excellent for loosening and removing a lot of dead fur in a short period of time. This is an especially good comb to use in the spring, when your pet will be shedding its winter coat. These also help thin their coats more quickly for the summer. Be careful, though, that you don't brush out too much of the undercoat! You should also only use this tool once or twice a year to avoid too much thinning in pets with thinner coats, and once a month at most in pets with heavier coats.

Blunt or Ball-Tipped Trimming ScissorsYou can use these in combination with a flea comb to remove mats from your pet's fur. Start by carefully working the flea comb into the base of the mat, as close to the skin as possible. This holds the mat in place and shields your pet's skin from the blades. Then you can cut out the mat without cutting your pet. Check out this article for a more detailed explanation of how to remove mats. Keep in mind that this method is best for mats the size of your thumbnail or smaller. Bigger mats may require a groomer's help.

Shampoo BrushThese brushes distribute shampoo throughout your pet's fur while gently brushing their coats and massaging their skin during bath time. If your dog or cat enjoys getting bathed this tool can make it easier for you and even more comfortable for them.

There are other great tools as well, but each of these address all the basic grooming needs of your pet. Of course, if your pet does not like being brushed or groomed, or you always have trouble with it, and it's in your budget, taking them to a professional groomer is best.

By Eve-Angeline Mitchell, Contributing WriterHave you ever wanted to make your own cat food, but didn't know how? My husband and I have been feeding our cats a raw food diet for a little over two years, now. In our two years of doing this, there's a lot that we've learned about how to make the food, and how to make that process easier. Here's how we make our raw cat food.

Raw Cat Food RecipeFirst, a note. The recipe we use isn't one we developed. We found it here, on Dr. Lisa Pierson's website, Catinfo.org. This site a fantastic resource not only for making the food itself, but also for why these diets are the best for cats. It explains why commercial cat food isn't healthy for our cats, and why a raw diet is considered "species appropriate." It also explains the ins and outs of making cat food. We have modified the recipe slightly, based on what we can afford, and what's practical for how much food we make.

Supplies you'll needMeat grinder labeled for grinding both meat and bone Large measuring cup Meat cutting scissors Mixing bowls and regular bowls Mixing spoon Kitchen scale capable of measuring fractions of ounces Safety pin (optional) Mortar and pestle (optional)Ingredients3 pounds chicken thighs with bone and skin (must be free of hormones and antibiotics, does not need to be organic, though that is best) 4 oz chicken livers 400 IU vitamin E 50 IU vitamin B-complex 2000 mg taurine 5000 mg fish oil1 tsp iodized salt (must be iodized) 2 eggs (scrambled) 1 cup waterA note about the supplementsWe prefer to use the Source Naturals brand of supplements from iHerb.com. This is especially important for the B-complex, because the Source Naturals vitamins don't contain the same amounts of vegetable cellulose that store-bought vitamins do. We found out the hard way that our cats' digestive systems are very sensitive to vegetable cellulose when we subbed store-bought B-complex for the Source Naturals B-complex, because we ran out. Even though our cats were only getting tiny amounts of the store-bought vitamins, all four ended up with nasty cases of gastritis. One had to be hospitalized. Thankfully, they're all fine now. This is why we get the Source Naturals supplements from iherb. This B-complex also doesn't have any vitamin C in it, which is good.One more note: It's best to order fish oil capsules, because they'll stay good for much longer than just a bottle of fish oil, and make sure it's not cod liver oil. According to Dr. Pierson, cod liver oil is not good for cats.

Processing the meatThe first thing we do is process the chicken. Dr. Pierson says that removing bone from roughly 25 percent of the meat will create the proper balance between the calcium of the bone, and the phosphorus in the meat, for your cat. She also recommends removing the skin from 50 percent to 70 percent of the meat, also, so that your cat is getting the fat content that she needs, but isn't getting too much.We prefer to remove the largest fat deposits from the chicken thighs, also. This is because we have two cats that need to be on very low-fat diets, due to health problems that a higher fat content makes worse. Don't try to trim all the fat off the thighs, however, because then you'll remove too much fat and your cat will lose too much weight too quickly, which can make her very sick. There are usually two big fat deposits on the sides of the thighs that are visible and easy to trim off. That's all you need to trim.

However, if your cat doesn't need to lose weight or otherwise avoid higher amounts of fat, then don't remove those two deposits either. Just remove the skin.

At this point, you can bake each piece of chicken in the oven to kill surface bacteria. We don't do this, however, it's a wise idea if you're getting your meat from the grocery store. Dr. Pierson cooks her poultry thighs until they're about 10 percent to 20 percent cooked. Avoid cooking them any more than that, because doing so will destroy necessary nutrients, and make the bones so brittle they'll shatter in the grinder. That can make the food very unsafe for your cat to eat.Put each finished piece of chicken into a mixing bowl. Once that's done, cut up one de-boned, trimmed thigh per 3 pounds of meat into small, bite-sized chunks, so your cat has something in her food to chew. Put these into a separate bowl, because you don't want to put them through the grinder. Cover the bowls, and put them into the fridge to chill while you're working on other parts of this process.

Mixing the supplementsMy husband and I work together on making the food, because we make so much at one time. So while he's processing the chicken, I'm mixing the supplements. The first thing I do is count out all the pills I need, and put them into separate cups so I don't have to count while I'm working. I also make sure I have some of the water we need for the food ready, so that I can mix the supplements in as I go along.The first thing I do is measure out the salt and pour it in the water. Then I use a mortar and pestle to crush the vitamin B-complex into powder. When that's done, I stir the powder into the water as well as I can. The B-complex doesn't mix very well, so just do the best you can with that. I also pull apart the taurine capsules and shake the powder into the water, too, and stir occasionally.

Once those three parts are finished, I use a safety pin to poke holes in the vitamin E and fish oil capsules, and then I squeeze the oil out onto the water. Oil sits on top of water, which is why you want the powders done first.The gelatin in the shells for the fish oil and vitamin E won't hurt your cats any, but they take forever to dissolve in water. The same is true with the vitamin B pills, and the taurine shells. You can do it that way, but you'll be waiting a long time for everything to dissolve. It's more work, but ultimately easier to do the supplements this way. When you finish with this step, set the mixture aside. It doesn't need to be refrigerated.

Now, the eggsTake your two eggs, scramble them, and cook them lightly. We find this to be easier than separating the yolks from the whites, and then only cooking the whites while leaving the yolks raw, as Dr. Pierson recommends. We do that because we tend to make 120 pounds of food at one time, and that is a lot of eggs to separate. So we scramble them and cook them. When they're done, set them aside. It's time to start grinding the meat.

Putting everything togetherSet your biggest mixing bowl under your grinder, and then start grinding the chicken up. The order you use doesn't matter, but we prefer to do the intact thighs first, then the trimmed thighs that still have bone in them, and then the rest of the thighs. Then we put the eggs through the grinder, and finally, the liver. The reason I prefer this order is because this leaves the least amount of "clogging" in your grinder, making cleanup easier.Now you have an odd-looking, layered mixture. Pour the water and the supplements in carefully, and then add more water as you see fit. Use your mixing spoon to mix it all together very thoroughly. Make sure the mixture is uniform all the way through.

Once it's all mixed, that's your cat food. At this point, because you'll have to transition your cat from her normal food onto this diet slowly, I suggest that you first divide it into half-pound portions, and store them in quart-sized Ziploc baggie. If you only processed three pounds of meat, this should give you about six or seven baggies' worth of food. You might end up with a little more or a little less.One more thing that might make it easier for you if you're making a whole lot of food, too: We've recently started de-boning and trimming the chicken as soon as we buy it. This way, food-making day takes a lot less time, and all those pieces of chicken take up less space in our freezer. If you think you'll eventually make a lot of food like we do, this could work for you, too.

If this method isn't for you, but you want to put your cat on a healthier diet, try looking for grain-free foods. The biggest problem with many commercial cat foods is that they contain too much grain, which cats can't digest. Grain-free food is increasingly available at places like Petsmart and Petco.

Eve-Angeline Mitchell is an experienced writer and blogger, and an animal rights and welfare advocate. She has been writing about cats, from pet cats to feral cats, to the history between cats and people, and even about bit cats, on Examiner.com for four years. She is also an avid do-it-yourselfer when it comes to home improvement and enjoys learning how to do new things.

By Eve-Angeline Mitchell, Contributing WriterIf you're a cat owner that's ever had to give your cat a pill, you know how impossible, and even traumatic, it can be. There is an assortment of ideas about how best to give him his medication, but there's really only one thing that will actually make it easy. It might even make it a little fun. You can use pill pockets.

I personally like Greenies Pill Pockets. I have two cats on long-term courses of medication right now. Both are a nightmare to give pills to. Both are also on these pills for anxiety, and so torturing them day after day, for weeks on end, wasn't going to work. After day 3 of pills, I was desperate for something that didn't require practically sitting on them, forcing their jaws apart, and sticking the pill as far back on their tongues as possible. I was getting bitten and scratched, and they got terrified every time I pulled their bottles out. Even a pill-popper was too much for them.How Greenies Pill Pockets transformed my cats' pill time.

Greenies Pill Pockets are geared towards turning pill time into treat time. They're strongly scented and very flavorful, and they cover up the smell and taste of the pills so your cat only smells and tastes the treat. To use the pill pockets, simply put the pill into the pocket, nudge it down as far as you can with your fingernail or a toothpick, and pinch the top closed. Then give it to your cat as you would any treat. It's really that simple.Before I started using these, my cats would disappear under the bed as soon as they heard the pill bottles rattle. Now they associate that same sound with a treat, and come running into the kitchen, mewing loudly. They don't even seem to notice there's a pill stuck inside. On the rare occasion that they do drop the pill, all I have to do is give them a second treat.

There are some minor drawbacks, however.Greenies Pill Pockets only come in two flavors, however: Chicken and salmon. I have very, very finicky cats and I was hoping to get maybe four or five different flavors, in case they didn't like the first one (or three) that I tried. One of my two cats on meds gets tired of having the same flavor treats over and over. Also, the pockets have a greasy texture to them, so I always feel like I need a napkin or paper towel nearby to wipe my fingers off after I'm done.

One other drawback seems to be their size. One of my cats has a little trouble with bigger treats, and usually drops pieces of the pockets on the floor. What I do, in her case, is take a knife and cut the pocket in half, from top to bottom. Then I roll her pill inside one-half of the pocket, turning it into a little ball that's easier for her to manage. This requires cutting her pills in half, too, though, so if you want to do this, investing in a pill cutter might be a good idea, too.

Some people say that they've tried pill pockets for their cats, and once their cats realized there was foul-tasting medicine inside, they stopped eating the pill pockets, and even started avoiding them like the plague. One possible remedy to this situation is to give your cats empty pill pockets sometimes as well. That should help them continue to see the pockets as treats that they want to eat, rather than something they'll eventually find disgusting. Some cats also just get tired of treats when they don't get a variety of flavors.But in general, these pill pockets are a great alternative to the more stressful, and ultimately more dangerous, methods of making sure your cat gets his medication.

Eve-Angeline Mitchell is an experienced writer and blogger, and an animal rights and welfare advocate. She has been writing about cats, from pet cats to feral cats, to the history between cats and people, and even about bit cats, on Examiner.com for four years. She is also an avid do-it-yourselfer when it comes to home improvement and enjoys learning how to do new things.

Two years ago, we noticed that our cat, Kali, was coughing quite a bit, and she sounded very congested with each episode. We also noticed that she seemed to be having a little trouble breathing, and that she got tired easily while playing.

We took her to Antioch Animal Hospital, and our vet first diagnosed a respiratory infection, even though her symptoms and x-rays weren't quite right for it. She also drew some fluid out of Kali's chest and sent it to a lab. She felt it was safest to treat Kali for a respiratory infection while waiting for the test results to come back.A week later, we got her results. The fluid in Kali's chest was chyle. The vet's final diagnosis was chylothorax.

What is chylothorax?There's some information on the web about chylothorax in cats, but not really a lot, like there is for more common conditions. PetMD has a page devoted to explaining what the fluid is, how it's supposed to travel, and what happens in cats with chylothorax. Chyle, which is fatty lymphatic fluid, travels from the intestines, through the abdomen and chest, and into the veins. In Kali, what's happening is that some of the chyle leaks into her chest from the vessels it travels through, and just kind of collects there. It's not in her lungs, it's outside her lungs, so it irritates them. If we'd left it too long, it could've caused damage, which could have resulted in lifelong breathing problems. Thankfully, this didn't happen with her.Most of what was on the web didn't answer my questions, though. I wanted to know how easy it was to treat or manage, whether her quality of life was going to be affected, and if it was going to affect her lifespan. Most importantly, I wanted to know what caused it.PetMD says that oftentimes, the cause is unknown. This is true of Kali. Our vet did a thorough exam and Kali doesn't have any heart problems, tumors or other growths, or lesions that might caused it. She just has it.

There are several options for treating chylothorax in cats.After our vet removed as much fluid from Kali's chest as possible, she gave us a treatment plan. Rutin, which is a supplement you can find online and at places like GNC and Vitamin World, can be used to help treat it. It comes in powder form or pill form, but if you get pills, they're so big that you're better off crushing them into powder so you can mix it with your cat's food. Our vet recommended giving Kali 1200 mg per day to start.

Another thing she recommended was putting Kali on a very low-fat diet. We feed our cats a homemade, raw-food diet, so we control the amount of fat that goes into their food. We started trimming more fat from the raw chicken thighs we use in their food. We fed her the new, low-fat food with 600 mg of rutin in each meal for almost a year.During that same time, we were taking her in for chest x-rays every few months, and her condition improved quickly. We took her off the rutin nearly a year ago, but we keep all our cats on the lower-fat diet. Kali's chest has been pretty clear ever since we first started treating her. According to our vet, sometimes, chylothorax is self-limiting. She also thinks it could be the low-fat diet that's helping.Sometimes these methods don't work well enough. Chylothorax in cats can also be addressed with surgery, but your vet will probably want to try everything else first.Today, Kali is happy, playful, and healthy. If your cat is diagnosed with chylothorax, don't panic. Even if your cat's condition can't be cured, it is manageable. With the right treatment plan, your cat can still live a good life, even with this condition.

Eve-Angeline Mitchell is an experienced writer and blogger, and an animal rights and welfare advocate. She has been writing about cats, from pet cats to feral cats, to the history between cats and people, and even about bit cats, on Examiner.com for four years. She is also an avid do-it-yourselfer when it comes to home improvement and enjoys learning how to do new things.

Grooming a dog with allergies can be different from grooming other dogs. Our Shih Tzu has asthma and allergies. So we’ve had to treat his grooming process different from some other dogs we’ve groomed in the past. Shih Tzu dogs are double-coated. Although they are on the least allergenic list for humans, they’re also more likely to have allergies themselves than some other breeds. When it comes to Shih Tzu dogs with allergies, it’s better to be safe than sorry. While these grooming practices may not prevent all allergy outbreaks, it has helped our Shih Tzu’s allergies considerably.

Keep Your Shih Tzu’s Fur Short

Because Shih Tzu dogs have a good amount of fur, they may need to be groomed often. Keeping the hair around their eyes and nose very short can help prevent drainage from both areas. Runny eyes and runny noses may be further irritated when the fur is brushing up against them or building up dander near them. Speaking of dander, keep other areas that touch the body as short as possible, as well. While this does not always take away dander problems and itchy skin, it can help to reduce build-up and make it easier to apply any skin treatments your vet might prescribe.

Use Scissors Instead of Electric Clippers

Because dogs with allergies can be sensitive to fur, dust, and dander, scissors are generally a better idea than electric clippers. The clippers can sometimes cause allergens to fly around in the air more than the scissors will. The electric clippers also might contain residue from being oiled. This can cause an allergic reaction in some dogs. The clippers themselves also might be too harsh on sensitive skin. Scissors are generally easier to keep disinfected as well. Some dogs also might break out when they are nervous. The loud noise emitting from the electric clippers may cause such a reaction.

Use Allergen Free Shampoo

When bathing your dog, be cautious of the ingredients in the cleansing products. Stay away from fragrances, dyes, and other harsh chemicals that may irritate your Shih Tzu dog’s allergies. Look for brands specifically made for dogs with allergies. However, avoid those that are still scented, as these can still irritate your dog’s skin, nose, and eyes. Medicated shampoos made for skin allergies can be good, as long as there are no dyes, perfumes, or other strong chemicals. Simple solutions with ingredients you can understand are often the best.

Bathe or Clean Sensitive Areas After Outings

Whenever your Shih Tzu dog is outdoors or in areas away from home, be sure to clean sensitive areas. Bathe your dog when outdoors time is prolonged or your dog is exposed to irritants, such as excessive dirt, trees, plants, grass, pollen, fungus, anything that makes your dog dirty, and other known allergens. Pay special attention to the face, especially the eyes and nose. But keep your dog’s fur as irritant free as possible. Fragrance free dog wipes or a wet cloth with hypoallergenic dog shampoo can be handy for this task.

Avoid Finishing, Whitening, and Other Fur Sprays

Many Shih Tzu dogs have areas of the fur that are white. Because of this, some pet parents will reach for whiteners and other spray fresheners to keep those areas extra shiny and clean looking. But when your Shih Tzu has allergies, this can be a very bad idea. These sprays often contain harsh chemicals and fragrances that can cause an allergic reaction. The same is true for detanglers, dog deodorant sprays, pheromone sprays, calming sprays, and any other product that is sprayed onto the dog’s fur.

*Please keep in mind that the author is not a licensed veterinarian. Please speak with your veterinarian about these and other safe grooming tips to ensure that your dog has the best plan to fit his or her personalized needs.

Whether for fun or to celebrate the true love between two canines, hosting a dog wedding can be more work than most realize. While there may not be an exchanging of rings, there are a plethora of other activities you can do. Dog weddings can be a fun and charming way to bring friends and family together, if only to enjoy one another’s company.

Set a Tone

When sending out emails, be sure to set a tone for the event. Will this dog wedding be a black tie affair, with the bride and groom dressed to the nines, or will this be a casual backyard wedding? Let your guests know how they, and their own dogs, should dress.

Plan for Food

Food will depend on the formality of your event. If you’re having lots of canine guests, be sure to accommodate them as well. There are a plethora of websites online that include baked treats for pups, ranging from cupcakes to ice cream.

As for the people, again, follow the tone of the event. A casual backyard affair could include lemonade, hot dogs and potato salad. A more formal event could call for finger foods, fancy coffees and so forth.

Decorate

Though the dogs should be dressed as well, it’s also important to dress up the event space. Whether it’s a few simple garlands or a more extravagant event with flowers and other decor, it is still important to follow the tone of the event.

Dealing with Comments

While your dog’s wedding event may seem perfectly normal to you and to many others, there may still be those who make rude comments. It is important to let these comments go. Whatever their reasoning may be, it is unnecessary for them to make these comments, and it is not worth your time to respond. Laugh it off or simply disregard, and you’ll be happier for it.

Having a basic idea of what the event will entail can help you plan it more seamlessly. Of course, this is a wedding for dogs, so try not to get too carried or away or take things too seriously. You will only stress yourself out! The important thing is to enjoy the event, and enjoy your dogs.

We also strive to one day cuddle with lions and giraffes. Until then, we’ll settle for furry rescue kitties and doggies.

We support many causes via our business ventures, such as homelessness, support for trans youth, equality, helping starving artists, and more! A portion of all proceeds from Intent-sive Nature goes toward helping homeless pets in local shelters.