ABS/EPC/etc. warning lights

I've been having some dash warning lights come on periodically as of late. I'll be driving and then notice that the ABS or EPC and (/!\) (circle with a triangle and exclamation point) lights will come on. Sometimes the ABS or EPC light will then switch off after 10-20 minutes, but the (/!\) light will stay on until I restart the car.

Restarting it at any time will clear out the fault code. Oh, and the van has ≈66k miles on it (if that matters).

IIRC, this problem may be related to the ignition switch(?) I tried searching but came up with nothing, probably because I suck at searching with the forum software.

I agree about the brake switch. If you have access to a code reader, a faulty brake switch should show up. Then again, it's about a $20 part that is known to fail, so simple solution is to replace it anyway.

If it's not the brake switch, I'd next take a look at the infamous wire bundle between the front door and the body to look for breaks (pull back rubber boot and unwrap tape to check wires).

break light switch most likely. Changed mine about 2 weeks ago. been fine since. Code was showing on vag-com. By the way i used a switch from a mkiv golf/jetta other than then the 1st set of #s in the part number which designate model, the rest of the # was the same and everything plugs right in. Check your local dealer, $5 and change for the switch @ my local dealer. bought a few last time i was there when my sisters golf brake switch went.

My 2001 EV MV has the ABS light, the (/!\ ) light and the EPC light on; the EPC light comes on and off intermittantly and when it does, the van stalls when at a standstill and a noticable reduction in power occurs if being driven; then, after being driven for a few miles, it will turn off and a noticable increase in power happens.

Could this also be related to the brake switch? I would really love to take care of this issue myself and for little $.

@BlkMrktMondo - turns out it was the mass airflow sensor that was bad, triggering the check engine light. Just a coincidence that the brake switch was faulty at the same time. Or maybe not a coincidence, aren't these VWs known for electrical gremlins?

@BlkMrktMondo - turns out it was the mass airflow sensor that was bad, triggering the check engine light. Just a coincidence that the brake switch was faulty at the same time. Or maybe not a coincidence, aren't these VWs known for electrical gremlins?

It'll be replaced tomorrow.

-Chris

(BTW - it's good to see a fellow bicycle industry member here...)

I replaced my mass flow sensor yesterday (my local dealer had one) and I replaced it myself; Engine light is off; EPC light has yet to come back on (fingers crossed). ABS and (/!\) are still on; so the search continues...

Check fuse 14 in the main panel by your left knee. That's the fuse for the ABS controller. If blown, next thing to check is the wire bundle between driver door and body. Pull back rubber boot and start removing the black tape. Look for wire breaks.

A VAG-COM or equivalent code reader scan should also give you more clues. A generic OBD-II code reader will probably not help troubleshoot the ABS problems.

Spend the $8 and buy a replacement brake switch. That should take care of your ABS and (/!\) lights. Good luck!

I did that already to no avail...

Originally Posted by chendermi

Check fuse 14 in the main panel by your left knee. That's the fuse for the ABS controller. If blown, next thing to check is the wire bundle between driver door and body. Pull back rubber boot and start removing the black tape. Look for wire breaks.

A VAG-COM or equivalent code reader scan should also give you more clues. A generic OBD-II code reader will probably not help troubleshoot the ABS problems.

These same things all happened at the same time. The last week of november, the ABS light came on. Last night, I started getting all three lights, and while the EPC light was on, very low revving and idle.

EPC means the Mass airflow sensor's bad then, from what I have read in this thread?

Well, I had found that my intake hose had cracked, so I thought that was the problem. Having repaired it, I'm still having the problem, Rough idle, misfires, and the EPC code with the check engine light.

The first two are the only ones that really matter, the last three are all missfires due to the fuel/air mix. MAF circuit low input and Running rich Bank 1.

Now, here's the oddities. I decided to clear the codes and start it up to see what actually came across again. And... no codes. No hesitation, no misfires. Other than a very slight whine and a slight smell of epoxy when the air system came on, I don't have any issues.

My question now is, do I still replace the MAF just to be sure, or just clean it?