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Camber getting worse

The latest rear camber is 3.6/1.8 - left/right (i think - don't have it in front of me. The left was around 2.8 back in 2008. The guess then (and now) by the shop was a bent swing arm. I haven't had a chance to take a good look at it. I did measure the springs and noticed the left measured about 6" and the right measured 5". Not quite what i would have expected... From looking through the archives it appears that people have solved this issue by replacing the swing arm or installing camber adjusters. Anyone solve it by replacing springs and shocks?

I had bad negative camber on one side

in the rear and it was due to a bent control arm. You can't tell by looking at them, you just need to replace it and hope for the best. New ones are expensive (like over $600). I bought a used one and it turned out to be bent too. I got another one (after quite a bit of haggling with the salvage yard) and that one was all right. Fortunately, the guy who installed it didn't charge me too much the second time. He also "slotted" something by the wheel to give it a little more adjustment. He said BMWs used to be slotted so you could adjust them but they stopped doing that.

I don't think new shocks will help with the camber. I don't know about springs; I guess it depends on what the underlying problem is.
Phil '97 1.9 Montreal Blue

Re: Camber getting worse

Ouch. When mine was under WARR at 23,270 miles it was pulling to the left side of the road big time when the road is banked to the right. Dealer changed trailing arm - NOT RESOLVED. Ended up being the axle carrier bent. Looking at both on the table you could not tell the difference. BMW SC came down to look at the car and that's how the decision to change the carrier was decided. My dealer was great about the cost and a loaner the time they had it. It is huge work with all the stuff they have to remove. Good luck-!!! Spings or shocks will not fix. If it were a smaller difference from spec you could use a camber adjust kit. A scrap your would be best for parts and cost. Dealer & new parts will resolve the quickest but maybe highest $$$$.

The K-macs are a huge pain in the butt (guess I'm not the first to have said that). I managed to actually get the K-mac bushings installed but can't figure out how to torque one of the nuts. Not even sure I can get an open end wrench on it (see photo). Since the bolt is "D" shaped and the bushing is serrated to grip, I don't think torquing the bolt head is adequate. Has anyone solved this problem?

yes they are a HUGE PITA to put in.....so much that when i got done with the one side i said screw this and had a indy shop do the other side. i just tightened as well as i could and when they did the wheel alignment i left it up to them to make sure they were tight and good. but it has been so long i can't really remember all the details on mine. but i do know i am running negative 3.2 on the rear both sides and 2.2 on the front.....like a freaking go cart, but i don't drive it all the time so i am not worried about tire wear.