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I learned from that one. About ten years later I was climbing this 10+ crack corner in AL. I get to a stance before the crux and get a last good piece in where the crack snaps shut. About 12' up, the crack opens up again and there is a stonker bucket hold. It's just not far enough to warrant the added stress of tweaking in some brass POS, so oh shit, I'm going for the bucket. 12' of highly stressful continuous techy tweaking stemming and I grab that sucker, pull up to chin level to start thinking about getting some gear, and this fucking flying squirrel pops out of the crack, runs down my arm, and launches into space. It happened so fast that I can't really say that I 'thought' anything, but I had the sudden sensation of that spider and was not letting go.

And it's a good thing, too. 'Cause after I got my shit together--and it took a while to get my shit together, I do not suffer these kinds of things stoically--I look down and my belayer and a buddy are just rolling on the ground laughing their asses off. They couldn't have caught shit. I'd like to think they at least waited until I got my shit together.

Put my fingers in a bees nest in a thin crack on the lower beer walls. pretty run out looking at 40+ footer and suddenly I am swarmed in bees. stayed ultra calm, plugged in a blue alien while I was blowing on the bees that landed on me. as soon as i had the gear in I boogied 10-15 ft pluged something decent in and brushed off the rest of them. Only stung 4 or 5 times... Intense.

How about headlamp solos up Chapel Pond? Those were the days huh James?My best rock solos were all pretty much on Cathedral. There's too many good pitches I can think of... Thinner, Turner's Flake, Pine Tree, Bombardment, Three Birches, Black Lung. I guess you could say 5.8 was my comfort level.

I've soloed most things at Frankenstein, Willard (not Madness tho) and the Tablets at Willoughby (mopowers will remember one day). I don't solo rock any more. for some reason I got really spooked one day on Fun House. that pinch move just above the finger crack on P1. I feel so much more comfortable on ice...

I do remember that day Al. That is the only time i have soloed ice. Although, i have done a few ice leads that sure felt like a solo.

My hardest rock solo was Steel Monkey, 5.9, at Wheeler. It has a slippery slab crux that i had fallen on before. Not sure why, one day i got it in my mind that it was something i had to do. It was enjoyable and a good learning experience. I came away from it knowing that i am no soloist. I even wore my helmet and kept looking around to make sure no one was watching. I felt a bit silly. I enjoy pushing myself in the company of friends much more.

The most enjoyable climb i have done without a rope is a route J-Tree. I believe it is called The Eye. Its a long pitch, dead vertical and rated something like 5.2. I found it extremely fun and much like climbing a stone ladder.

Mo- the Eye is great at night as well, it would be right at home in the Gunks.

Eichorn is a fine climb, I brought a rope, I think there is a short rap ? Snake Dike in the Valley is fun. it's really easy, WAY easierthan Sliding board with the same grade. it's like x-country running on perfect granite. Do WH Standard twice and add 14 miles of hiking

For ice it would have to be the Penguin, and rock Funhouse to Upper Refuse. I don't solo much rock anymore these days...not sure why, but I do solo a ton of ice now. Very different feel but a similar mind set.

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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."