Yes, I found that the other day, I think it only works to 5 levels. Anyway. Sorry, my bad, in the UK when we talk about PVA adhesive, we just call it PVA. Â you should be using PVA Adhesive, or wood glue, mixed with water. Â

The slices of the model bond so securely that it is strong in all directions when you tear it apart, it does notÂ separateÂ along the layer lines, it rips like a solid material equally along the lines as through them.

I did a test where part way through a build, I placed a piece of painter's tape over a section of the model. Â Once the build was complete, I removed the tape and pulled the two halves apart where the tape had been, but I could not get the model to tear, under a great force, it ripped but not along the lines.

I don't know if you get oranges in nylon mesh bags in the states, if you do, you'll know that it is easy to cut you finger trying to pull one apart. Â It's the same with this stuff.

Been wondering about this with the Budaschnozzle too since it has a PTFE liner. Â My totally untested and probably unfounded theory, at least with the Buda, is that the PTFE is far enough away from the heater that if the block is at 250 max, the PTFE temp is safely under that. Â Would love to hear confirmation or refutal of that.Â

I just purchased someÂ Taulman 618 Nylon, I can't wait for it to arrive and to try printing out a few nylon parts. From what I've read about nylon extrusion, trapped water in the nylon seems to cause issues with extrusion. Have you experienced any issues with this?

Not really, it comes in a spool that closes around the filament, reducing the amount of water ingress. Â I keep it in the bag with theÂ desiccant. Â I did notice, when I first got it home and it was much colder than the surrounding air, there were some small steam bubbles in the final print (very tiny) but once it was at room temperature the problemÂ disappeared. Â There is a small wisp of steam issuing from the nozzle during extrusion, but it does not effect the print.Â Â

Â I'm pretty excited about nylon. Once i have my computer/printrbot jr running i am sure for now it will be my nylon printer. I did make a mod to the Jr. I extended the z by 5 inches and i mounted the
printer to a base to steady it for the change. BenitoSanduchi 's use of perfboard as a print surface is probably how I will go as it seems like a elegant solution. Nylon to make molds is a a major incentive, and flexible molds means being able to make cavities which do not need to be angled for removal.
really exciting stuff (well to me anyhow)

Can't take credit for the perfboard solution, that's all Taulman, but it does work. Â I'm excited to try the PVA though. Â Just came in the mail yesterday. Â No more nubs on the bottom of the parts would be great. Â

Easy, just mix 1 part PVA with 3 parts water, keep it in an old jar next to the printer, when the print finished, paint on a layer with a paint brush (avoiding drips into the works) and by the time it cools, you have a smooth PVA coating over your Kapton tape.

After about 10 prints, the PVA starts to get a little thick, this makes the surface higher and softer, at this point, I usually peel the PVA layer off and start again, sometimes needing new Kapton, sometimes not.

I did try this straight onto the Aluminium bed, but it was difficult to clean up completely, so it's nice to have the tape underneath.

I did start to experiment with PVA on mica sheet (from microwave repair sheets), but this is so easy, I never finished testing that.

Absolutely, as to machining.Â You should use steel tooling. cutters, mills, end-mills.Â Flat or tipped.
You can drill it or just drive screws into it.Â What I use most, is to make a slightly smaller hole than desired then use a tap to thread the hole.Â As long as you meet the same thickness requirements as aluminum, you should be good.Â Also, remember itâ€™s a natural color as there are NO color additives, so it leans a bit from natural to tinged white for best uptake of dyes.Â We keep it natural as we found color additives can reduce bonding.Â Dying the final part keeps the surface luster as printed.Â Â Also, as to using a tap for threads.Â 618 cuts, rather than scares and that is why using a tap works well.

I have some dyes on order, but I did try balsamic vinegar and I ended up with a lovely chocolate brown part. Â My daughter said it would be a nice colour for a pair of shoes (hint hint),Â fortunatelyÂ the build platform on my ToM isn't big enough for her foot (although the Replicator 2 is so I may have to address that when the 1.75 mm is available)

Yes, I think so.Â
I'm currently quite lax about filament storage, but this and PVA are more sensitive to moisture, the spool that comes with the Nylon addresses this to a degree, it's an interesting design. Â Hopefully, we can get PVA in a similar way.

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