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Topic Review (Newest First)

05-09-2013 05:29 PM

LATECH

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

a couple eagle eyes there. good observations

Thank you Vinnie.
One thing for the OP... the borg warner device is the ignition module.The pickup coil is the piece that has the green and white (yellowed with age) wires on it that hook to the end on the right. I mention this because the 2 wires are supposed to be in a connector so they dont get plugged in wrong. Looks like the white wire is on the correct terminal, but If they get plugged in backwards, the car wont run. Just an FYI

05-09-2013 05:04 PM

vinniekq2

a couple eagle eyes there. good observations

05-09-2013 04:39 PM

LATECH

In picture #1 I see the center connector is not sticking down through the distributor cap as it should, causing an issue captured in picture 5....Massive carbon tracking and shorting across the rotor.
Replace the rotor with a new one and take the coil out of the cap, get the center conductor issue corrected, be sure the carbon button goes back in FIRST, then the insulator, then some dielectric grease then the coil. Be sure to use the little grounding fork on the coil frame unless it has the wire with the eyelet for the coil. I would also replace the cap in the process as well.

05-09-2013 04:34 PM

Too Many Projects

The center pin in the cap doesn't look right. It appears to be recessed in the cap. It should protrude out of the cap about 3/16ths to ride on the spring of the rotor. If the spark has to jump that gap, it will affect the timing and strength of the spark at the plugs. If the cam is stock in that engine, about 4-8 degrees advanced is all they required '74 to run smoooth.

Maybe it's just an illusion from the angle of the pic, but check that. I see the pickup coil has already been replaced with a Borg Warner. That should be good.

05-09-2013 07:31 AM

Chad1965

Some recent pics

distrubutor cap and rotor before cleaning off contacts, Holly 750 carb, a look under the valve covers and such.

So the engine runs now, but it still needs a lot of work to get it cleaned up and tuned. That will come later the rest of the car needs alot of attention first.
I'll create a album for the car soon if anyone wants to check it out.

05-07-2013 09:20 PM

vinniekq2

re post #19,,,

05-07-2013 09:11 PM

Chad1965

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

post a new picture,lets see your workmanship?

workmanship of what? putting a fuel filter, fuel lines and new carb on the engine? im sorry I dont follow you...

05-07-2013 09:06 PM

vinniekq2

post a new picture,lets see your workmanship?

05-07-2013 09:02 PM

Chad1965

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstgenbird

IDK about the 74, but these old Pontiacs had nylon teeth molded over the steel on the crankshaft timing gear. The teeth would strip off or jump a tooth. Often it would happen when you try to start the engine. It would be a good idea to check that your camshaft timing is correct.

It's premature to worry what's wrong with the engine when it has such old wiring, distributor cap, dirty (and wrong) carb and so forth. Restore these to good condition first.

Okay thanks I'll check out that gear.
Ya everything else is good as I have said in previous posts.

05-07-2013 04:05 PM

firstgenbird

IDK about the 74, but these old Pontiacs had nylon teeth molded over the steel on the crankshaft timing gear. The teeth would strip off or jump a tooth. Often it would happen when you try to start the engine. It would be a good idea to check that your camshaft timing is correct.

It's premature to worry what's wrong with the engine when it has such old wiring, distributor cap, dirty (and wrong) carb and so forth. Restore these to good condition first.

05-07-2013 12:37 PM

WDCreech

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad1965

No, I had the timing light on it, its 15 - 30 before 0. I wonder if someone before me did a timing chain and set it one notch off? I had the valve covers off, spun the engine over slowly and the #1 exhaust valve opens and closes a fair amount before the #1 piston reaches TDC.

15-30 before 0 would be advanced. That is about where it should be. To check the valve timing specks, you'll need a degree wheel, a piston stop, and a dial indicator.

Bill

05-07-2013 07:28 AM

vinniekq2

let us know if it runs well

05-07-2013 07:14 AM

Chad1965

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

as already mentioned,check for spark,check for fuel,check compression.
make sure the fuel is good quality.
clean up everything so you can work on the car.check all the top screws on the carb(for now)
When this is all done let us know what happened

Ya thats all been done, new spark plugs, fuel hose and filter, distrubutor all cleaned, spark wires all good, and I got a good holly carb on it now, I'll be takeing some new pics in a day or so.

05-07-2013 07:06 AM

vinniekq2

as already mentioned,check for spark,check for fuel,check compression.
make sure the fuel is good quality.
clean up everything so you can work on the car.check all the top screws on the carb(for now)
When this is all done let us know what happened

05-07-2013 06:55 AM

Chad1965

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn

You mean advanced 15-30 to run right?

Do not get on it , until it is tuned. With the carb at a manufacturer suggested baseline get the timing set first.

No, I had the timing light on it, its 15 - 30 before 0. I wonder if someone before me did a timing chain and set it one notch off? I had the valve covers off, spun the engine over slowly and the #1 exhaust valve opens and closes a fair amount before the #1 piston reaches TDC.

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