Monday, April 8, 2013

A Guide on Butuan - Surigao - Siargao - Bucas Grande

I have this strange thing about exotic-sounding Philippine destinations since I was a kid. I wondered what's in Marinduque and Siquijor. Maybe it's the "Q" in their names or the ambiguity it brought to my younger self. I just find it amusing that now I have all the chance to explore those places and one of those is Siargao. But getting there proved to be the most challenging for me so far that it deserves its own separate post.

There are direct flights to Siargao from Cebu. So if you have moolah to spend on airfare you can book a flight from Manila to Cebu to Siargao. Sweet!

Another option is to fly or ride a ship vessel from Manila to Surigao. Hire a tricycle right outside the airport to the port. And hop on a boat that will get you to Siargao. I wish it was that easy eh?

A more budget-friendly option (because of the frequent promo of airline companies) is to fly from Manila to Butuan. Then there are two options upon getting there; either you take a van outside the airport that will bring you to Surigao City or hop on a jeepney outside the airport to the Langihan bus terminal and ride a bus to Surigao City. Arriving at Surigao City, get on a jeepney that will pass by the port or you can also hire a tricycle to the port but expect to pay higher fare for this. Easier said than done eh?

Langihan bus terminal - Butuan City

What we did.

Manila to Butuan to Surigao City

We chose the latter option. We booked a Manila-Butuan-Manila flight on a promo a few months before the trip. Arriving at the airport at around 10:00 a.m. (thanks for a very delayed flight), we passed by the "barkers" outside the the Arrival area and looked for the vans headed to Surigao City. At the parking lot, we asked around and a good soul showed us two vans for hire to Surigao City - an old Hyundai van (200 pesos each) and a relatively new Toyota van (300 pesos each). We chose the former of course.

The ride was smooth as expected. The view from the outside constantly woke my very tired body. We arrived at the Surigao City Gaisano terminal at around 12:20 in the afternoon. It was a smooth 2 hours and 20 minutes ride. We were about to alight the van when a passenger begged the driver to go straight to the RORO port to catch the last ferry going to Siargao - the lady was very worried. We joined her and told them that we were also catching the (apparently) last ride to Siargao. It was as if we were in an Amazing Race episode when the lady continuously speaking in their native language to the driver to get there as fast as it can. It felt like she was worried to miss the boat. We got there at around 12:30 p.m.. The lady jumped out of the van so quickly while I was still giving a tip to our driver. We followed her (she never looked at us) and upon entering the terminal, we were told that the ferry left already. Still hopeful, the lady ran out to the docking area (passing through all the security which didn't mind her) and when we got there the RORO ferry boat just left. It was a few hundred meters from the port. She was so frustrated that she even shouted for it to come back. We were sad, of course, but not as defeated as her. She still didn't talk to us (she's furious) and she phoned someone that she will just load the earliest schedule of boat the next day and that she will just have to stay in a hotel or inn. She sped away in a trike.

We didn't know what to do so we went back to the terminal and asked a security guard for the schedule of the boats. He said that the earliest passenger boat (good for 180 pax) is scheduled to leave for Siargao (Dapa port) at 5:45 a.m. everyday. It will be a 2-hour, 200-peso ride to Dapa in Siargao. It was on a different port and he noted that we need to be at the port at around 5:20 a.m. And the next one would be the RORO ferry boat on that same port that will leave at around 12:00 noon (the time though is flexible). We should be there at around 10:30 a.m. to purchase our tickets early on. It will be a 4-hour,175-peso ride to Dapa in Siargao. Or if we were in dire need to get to the island, we may opt to hire a private boat to Siargao for 15,000 pesos. Wow! we looked like we have that much money huh? That security guard was so helpful. Next in order, to look for a place to stay in for the night.

Surigao City to SiargaoConsidering all the tips of the security guard we spoke to the other day, we were ready at around 5:00 a.m. and checked out from the inn at 5:05 a.m. We walked up to the port for the 200-seater boat to Dapa Port in Siargao. We were there at around 5:15 a.m. and noticed that there was no boat nor people that were waiting. I thought that we were early for the 5:45 a.m. scheduled time but then someone told us that the boat just left and even pointed it to us. We were stunned to see the boat just a few hundred meters from us on its way to Siargao. We, again, were late. And then a very helpful guy told us that we can still catch a boat leaving for Del Carmen port (a town in Siargao) on the other port. He hailed a tricycle and talked to the driver that we needed to be at the port that serves Surigao City - Del Carmen route. The guy even told us that we should only pay 8 pesos each for the tricyclye ride. We were so thankful to this guy who helped us without expecting anything in return. Filipinos are really this good-hearted.

the not-so-reliable boat schedule

It took us 5 minutes to get to the other port, it was around 5:30 a.m. There were loads of people also waiting for the said boat - good sign. Purchasing a ticket was a breeze. We purchased a ticket for 200 pesos each and the lady told us that the boat will leave at 8 a.m. Whew. We boarded the boat at around 7:50 a.m. and the boat left as scheduled.

the port that serves Surigao city - Del Carmen, Siargao route

180-seater passenger boat off to Del Carmen, Siargao

young and wild and free - inggit
(near Del Carmen port)

finally!
Del Carmen port in Siargao

Del Carmen, Siargao to General Luna, SiargaoSiargao Group of Islands is composed of 48 islands and islets and is still a part of Surigao del Norte province. Nine towns are located in Siargao. As you can see on the map above, Del Carmen is two towns away from General Luna (where the famous Cloud 9 surfing area is located). It is dubbed as the "Surfing Capital of the Philippines" so expect hard-core surfers here.At around 10:30 a.m. we arrived at Del Carmen port. We were told that we needed to get to Dapa town via tricycle and then transfer on another tricycle bound to General Luna. Tricycles were outside the Del Carmen port that are headed to Dapa town. They need to be filled for it leave. So if you are in a group or wanted to rent the whole tricycle you can do so by paying for its capacity (8 passengers in total). We paid 40 pesos each for the 1-hour scenic ride and we were dropped at the tricycle terminal in Dapa at around 11:30 a.m.In Dapa tricycle terminal, we looked out for the tricycles that are bound to General Luna. Again, you can rent the tricycle for around 150-200 pesos to bring you to General Luna or you can wait for other passengers that are also bound to the town for 30 pesos each. We waited for 30 minutes but it seemed that no one is bound to General Luna so we rented the whole tricycle for 150 pesos for it to leave already. It was 12:00 noon. It took us almost 40 minutes to reach General Luna from Dapa. And we were dropped off at General Luna's "Boulevard" at around 12:40 p.m. And then relief, after more than 24 hours we reached Siargao. Whew!

General Luna to Cloud 9 in SiargaoIf you came to Siargao to surf then you should stay at the Cloud 9 area which is around 3 kms. from the town center of General Luna. If you came to unwind and explore the nearby islands then you can stay near the town center. There are many resorts/inns around the town and near the beach so getting to the town center and the Boulevard can be easier. You can have a leisure walk to and fro Cloud 9 or you may opt to ride a habal-habal or a motorcycle for 25 pesos each person per way. It's quite steep so plan your activities accordingly. You can also rent a motorbike for 500 pesos per day (excluding the gas) for you to explore as many areas as possible. Or you can hire a habal-habal (with a driver) to go around the island. Just haggle for the rates. Try our extremely helpful guy Lolong 0946.648.7954.

General Luna to DapaGoing back to either Surigao or Butuan for your return flight, you just have to ride into a habal-habal for 25 pesos each and tell them to bring you to the tricycle terminal that are bound to Dapa town (where Surigao City-bound boats are located). Again, you may opt to rent the whole tricycle for 150-200 pesos. Or you can wait for other passengers to fill it up for 30 pesos each for the 40-minute ride.Dapa, Siargao to Surigao CityThere are few boats that leave early in the morning at around 5:30 a.m. to 6:00 a.m. The fares are around 170-210 pesos each person. The last boat that will leave Dapa will be at around 11:00 a.m. We targeted that last trip for we cannot be at the port that early. So at around 8:30 a.m. we were at Dapa port for the last boat trip to Surigao. When I was about to purchase the tickets, a guy shouted that there are no tickets available for the last boat trip 'coz it has been fully booked since 6:00 a.m. Heavy sigh. Here we go again. You could only imagine the dismay on my face at that time. We were asked to fill out a form for "chance passengers". We were number 36 and 37 respectively and if someone didn't show up we can get in (hoping that numbers 1 to 35 don't show up too). I was thinking of going to Del Carmen again but nobody could give me the exact details on boat schedules there. I was also thinking of checking in at a nearby hostel/inn with the hopes of getting the earliest boat ride the next day to Surigao to catch our flight back to Manila. But then someone, again, shouted that a private, 12-seater, outrigger boat can get us to Hayanggabon Port in Claver, Surigao for 300 pesos each. We just need to fill up the 12 seats for it to leave. We signed in and at around 9:00 a.m. we were on our way to the Hayanggabon port in Claver town. The view on our way to the port was nice especially the mangroves. Everything was a breeze up until there was an engine failure. As if the challenges weren't enough we were in the middle of nowhere with a troubled boat. The boatman seemed to fix it but the boat was noticeably slow this time. And then the rain started to pour. No one complained or seemed to be pissed. It's as if everything that's happening was normal. So I didn't fret. It took us 3 solid hours for the supposedly 1 1/2 hours of boat ride. But then upon seeing the port I was so happy. Land form at last.

Dapa-Hayanggabon outrigger boat

Hayanggabon port, Claver to Bad-as junctionThe whole gang were headed to Surigao but us. There were Surigao-bound, non-airconditioned vans right off the port. We asked the driver if he could squeeze us in the super filled van for we will alight at Bad-as junction and not in Surigao. He agreed and let us pay 90 pesos each for the ride (130 pesos for the Surigao-bound passengers). At 12:00 noon we were squeezed inside the van. I counted everyone and we were 22 inside the van and one person outside the van hanging on for his life. And no one seemed to complain. I was whispering, "Hindi tayo sardinas, corned beef tayo dito sa loob ng van". We were famished and one passenger offered the both of us some biscuits and we grabbed some, munched it and trying not to show that we were so hungry. Such a good soul.

Bad-as junction to Butuan CityAt 1:00 p.m. and after almost an hour later, we were at the Bad-as junction and looked for a ride to Butuan. An option was to ride a van that goes directly to Butuan but it needs to be filled before it can leave so we just waited for an air-con (specifically) Bachelor bus to Butuan right across the van terminal. We were so lucky that after just 5 minutes there it was, the air-con Bachelor bus. I was so relieved when we were inside. We paid 173 pesos (138 pesos - student fare).

Bad-as junction

Butuan City

Getting around Butuan City is quite easy. Either you take a coded jeepney or a tricycle to where you need to go. The minimum fare for both rides is 8 pesos each person. You could easily ask around on what jeepney to ride into when going to a certain place. Jeepneys also go inside the airport so no need to hire a tricycle for that.

the 8-seater trike

Manila to Bucas GrandeBucas Grande in Socorro town (Siargao) boasts some white sand beaches, numerous caves and the stingless jellyfish in Sohoton Cove. If you're in Siargao, why not include Bucas Grande into your trip. There are numerous ways to get to Bucas Grande.

First is to fly or ride a ship vessel from Manila to Surigao. From there, ride a van that goes to Hayanggabon port at the Gaisano terminal. From Hayanggabon port you could arrange a boat ride to Socorro or the Sohoton Cove or take the passenger boat where a scheduled trip to Socorro will be at around 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. or as long as it is full.

Another option is to fly from Manila to Butuan. Arriving at the airport, there are vans headed to Hayanggabon port for 200-300 pesos each person. You could also take a Surigao-bound van for 150-200 pesos and go down at the Bad-as junction terminal where Hayanggabon port-bound vans are easily available for 80-100 pesos. You could also hop on a jeepney outside the Butuan airport to the Langihan bus terminal and ride a bus to Surigao City. Alight at the Bad-as junction terminal and ride into the Hayanggabon port-bound vans there. Again, you could arrange a boat ride to Socorro or Sohoton Cove there or take the passenger boat where a scheduled trip to Socorro will be at around 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. or as long as it is full.

What we did.

Our planned trip to Bucas Grande almost didn't push through 'coz we spent one full day just to get to Siargao (but I really wanna see the stingless jellyfish! tantrum mode). But when I asked a boatman if he could include Bucas Grande/Sohoton Cove into our supposedly Siargao 3-island hopping trip he said yes but for a hefty price of course. I haggled and we met half way for the whole package. And yes! We went to Bucas Grande from General Luna in Siargao. We had a private boat for that day (feeling mayaman). For Siargao island hopping and/or Bucas Grande/Sohoton Cove arrangements you can contact Kuya Lito 0907.310.3333.

TipsIf you would like to add something on this guide feel free to give your suggestions on the comments page. Here are more tips:

The trip happened during a week before the Holy Week which explained the volume of passengers to and fro Siargao. On regular days it may be relatively easier to get in and out of Siargao.

Boat trip schedules are not so reliable. The boats could leave earlier or later than the scheduled trip so be at the designated port as early as possible. Also, take note of the different ports for the different routes.

If you could, allot a minimum of 5 days for this kind of trip so as to have buffer days when such things happen to you.

If it's possible, ask if you can reserve a return trip ticket when you arrive at a certain port. This could save so much time for the whole trip.

There are few ATM machines around Siargao but don't just rely on that. Machines are machines and it would be so hard to be stuck on an island penniless. Just to be sure, bring a considerable amount of cash. No problem with this on Surigao City and Butuan City for they have numerous ATM machines around the city.

Smart and Globe networks have strong signal in the island. If you are a Sun subscriber, search for networks manually and connect to Smart. It works perfectly and connecting it wouldn't be tagged as "roaming" thus, don't be scared on the roaming charges. Certain cellphone models automatically links Sun to Smart network.

The boat looks so tight and cramped. I wonder how one can get outside of the boat when it capsizes (wag naman sana). But the windows look small. I rode a similar boat from Masbate port to Ticao Island. Ang sikip.

Hi!im booked from manila-butuan, from there van or bus to surigao and ferry from surigao to siargao?5days is enough?i also want to visit sohoton cave,is there a public boat to reach sohoton,can someone give me an IT for 5day trip.and what hotel can u suggest in butuan,surigao and siargao.Please,Thank You!

hi!can u give me IT for 5 days surigao/siargao.we booked manila-butuan rountrip ticket, but we want to explore surigao/siargao.we're looking for cheap but nice accomodation in butuan, surigao and siargao?please.thank you!

Hi. Thank you for this informative guide. Like Mariella, I was also able to get a cheap airfare going to butuan. However, the ticket I have is for 6pm flight. With estimated arrival time to butuan at 7:35 PM. Based on your guide, there are already vans travelling straight to hayanggabon. Do you happen to know the last trip of vans going to hayanggabon? By the way, we're planning to visit this coming November pa naman. Thanks. :)

Yep it's definitely true... That place was awesome... It's my home town... if you like to be cheaper and spend your travel days worth it. Go to butuan arrive at 8pm then ride a van cost 200 then arrived in surigao stay in mcdo. Just eat there relax or have some coffee. Due to delayed fights maybe you will be at surigao city by 10pm to 1am so just stay to open stores. There's no Seven Eleven or Mini Stop so the first open store or a popular fast food is only Mcdo. Then at 4:30am ride a tricycle pay 8 pesos go to pastalan dos (port 2) or boulevard, lantsa para dapa (small boat bound to dapa). Boat around 200 pesos at 8am your in dapa. In Dapa, yep tricycle /jeep and ask locals, if you have a friend there the better. Seafood's(tuna,lobsters,blue crabs) are cheap so don't just enjoy the scenery there. Good luck.

Hi. your blog is keeping us well informed for our trip to siargao this coming august :). may I ask where did you stay overnight in surigao city before the day you departed to siargao? and how much did it cost? because we might arrive in surigao city by night.

Hi! Do you know if there’s a schedule of van from Butuan airport going to Surigao bus terminal? We’re heading to Siargao but the flight that we got, we’ll arrive at Butuan at around 8pm. I’m worried we’re not able to catch the 5:00am boat ride going to general luna.