In the spring of 2002 my wife and I traveled with our 11-month old daughter through southern Spain, in search of a city to live. After visiting Cordoba and Sevilla, we wandered into Granada. Across a narrow gorge from the Alhambra—the finest Moorish palace in the world—we found the Albayzín, a medieval neighborhood designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Within an hour of our arrival, we had decided to move in.