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2012 Toyota Tacoma Static Drop

Stock (Suspension) Sucks!

By Brian Sexton, Photography by Brian Sexton

Mini Truckin', October 30, 2013

Our ’12 Toyota X-Runner is a great package, but around the MT office, we’re never satisfied with stock. Even though we didn’t want to ’bag this unit, it had to be lower—something had to be done. Since the first things a new truck owner usually does to their truck is adjust the suspension and buy new wheels to find the right stance, we figured that was a perfect starting point.

1. We decided to go with a set of 20x8 TSWs Rivage wheels in gloss black with milled spokes.

1. We decided to go with a set of 20x8 TSWs Rivage wheels in gloss black with milled spoke

2. To cover them, we opted for Falken’s proven FK-452 in 240/40/ZR20 all the way around.

3. Our high-riding Toy would soon be in the weeds after a call to our pals at DJM Suspension. We chose their 3/4 drop kit for this project (PN DJM2816-3), which includes 3-inch Calmax upper and lower control arms

3. Our high-riding Toy would soon be in the weeds after a call to our pals at DJM Suspensi

4. The Rear suspension will be treated to a 4-inch rear lowering kit, and super beefy C-notch braces.

4. The Rear suspension will be treated to a 4-inch rear lowering kit, and super beefy C-no

5. We started ripping out the stock front suspension by first removing the front sway bar bolts.

5. We started ripping out the stock front suspension by first removing the front sway bar

6. The brake calipers were removed.

7. As well as the front ball joint bolts, freeing up the upper and lower control arms for removal.

7. As well as the front ball joint bolts, freeing up the upper and lower control arms for

8. The upper control arms went back on in a snap.

9. We then yanked the stock lower arms out. The only snag is the removal of the stock ball joints.

9. We then yanked the stock lower arms out. The only snag is the removal of the stock ball

10. The stock ball joints were reused.

11. After the ball joints were swapped over, we dropped the grease fittings in and greased the bushings. We installed the new lower control arms, buttoned everything up and moved on to the rear.

11. After the ball joints were swapped over, we dropped the grease fittings in and greased

12. The bump stop mounts had to be removed from the frame rails.

13. Once they were out of the way, we broke out the C-notch template that comes with the kit to outline for our cuts.

13. Once they were out of the way, we broke out the C-notch template that comes with the k

14. Once we cut out the notch, we lined up DJM’s ultra beefy C-notch brace, drilled the necessary holes, and bolted it in place, along with installing their adjustable bumpstops.

14. Once we cut out the notch, we lined up DJM’s ultra beefy C-notch brace, drilled the ne

15. Next, we installed DJM’s pinion angle shims, 4-inch drop blocks, and bolted it all up using their extended U-bolts.

15. Next, we installed DJM’s pinion angle shims, 4-inch drop blocks, and bolted it all up

16. With this much drop, new shocks are a must. Our friends QA1 sent a set of their 18-way adjustable rear shocks.

16. With this much drop, new shocks are a must. Our friends QA1 sent a set of their 18-way

17. We can dial in just the right amount of firmness needed, and they will keep us from rubbing tires in case we have weight in the bed.

17. We can dial in just the right amount of firmness needed, and they will keep us from ru