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I've had the same thoughts on an alternative UQ suspension setup, but couldn't figure out how to get it to work with a netted hammock.

My current thought is to attach cord locks to each corner of the UQ that the shock cord UQ suspension runs through. Once the suspension is set tight enough to keep the UQ against the hammock set the cordlocks to prevent the uq from accordioning up and causing a draft and therefore CBS.

Are you thinking using the slotted cord lock sewn to each UQ corner with gross grain? Then run the suspension through the cord lock them channel then cord lock? I thought this mat work too but abandoned it for fear of modifying my quilt.

On my DIY UQ I'm going to do my suspension like leahlo but do all shock cord like the head end. That way the shock cord pulls the ends tight but I should still be able to slide it fore and aft at will.

Are you thinking using the slotted cord lock sewn to each UQ corner with gross grain? Then run the suspension through the cord lock them channel then cord lock? I thought this mat work too but abandoned it for fear of modifying my quilt.

On my DIY UQ I'm going to do my suspension like leahlo but do all shock cord like the head end. That way the shock cord pulls the ends tight but I should still be able to slide it fore and aft at will.

That's it. The only modification is adding grossgain loops with cordlocks to the four corners of the UQ.

*Heaven best have trees, because I plan to lounge for eternity.

Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement. - Mark Twain

I got rid of all the lines. They drove me nuts anyway. 6 Dutch hooks/clips and a little sewing.

Sgt., did you just sew 3 on each side of the hammock? Then hook matching GG loops on the quilt? How did you figure and line up the hooks on the hammock so the quilt fit your body? If you have pictures I think they may help.

I like the LeighLo updated suspension in the 1st video posted by WickedKlown2. Thanks!!

It has one end fixed, which keeps the quilt in one place. With shock-cord, there can be movement. In my version, the fixed end was at the head instead of the foot, but accomplishes the same thing.

I like LeighLo's shock-cord tensioning method of looping it from the foot end, through the side channel, to a mitten hook, and back to the head end of the quilt. That looks like it would eliminate the shortening, or scrunching of the quilt.

I also like that LeighLo has simplified their original suspension, without loosing function, which is what I was trying to do.

I find the original LeighLo suspension to be excellent. The way I clip it around the end of my hammock it does the same thing as the triangle thingies. There is no adjusting the quilt though. I find I never need to. Same with my tarp. A lot of people apparently like (or need?) the ability to adjust their hammock, quilt, tarp etc... once it is set up. I don't need to, nor do I have to try again to get things right. Either I just get it right the first time, or I am not as finicky as others. Neat solutions people are coming up with though. I guess I am lucky I don't have the problem that needs the solutions.

...My current thought is to attach cord locks to each corner of the UQ that the shock cord UQ suspension runs through. Once the suspension is set tight enough to keep the UQ against the hammock set the cordlocks to prevent the uq from accordioning up and causing a draft and therefore CBS.

That's what I did on an UQ I made. I used a loop of grosgrain at each corner to hold two cord locks. One for the main suspension through the side channels and one for the end channel shock cord.

When I made my DIY underquilt, I made the layer next to the hammock four inches wider than the finished width of the outside layer. I then turned the extra four inches into a two inch channel. At each corner, I sewed ripstop to an opening I left, to allow the suspension to exit the channels. I used some elastic cord I bought at Jo-Ann's for suspension. Not sure of the size of the elastic cord, but it is smaller than my 2.2 mm zing it line. I inserted the elastic cord in the channels and made a loop with it. I then pull the elastic cord out at each corner and attach to mason line triangles that I drape over the ridgeline. This method allows me to adjust side to side and head to foot. I control the tightness by the placement of the triangles on the ridgeline. I have never had an issue with cold gaps.