Favorite X100s settings?

I apologize if this thread already exists, but...as a new X100s owner...I'd hugely value a discussion among those more experienced as to your favorite settings. As I climb my learning curve, I'm eager to know what's working well for you - regarding both in-camera settings as well as pp (e.g. sharpening). Also, if this is covered in any of the reviews, etc. that I might have missed...please point me in the right direction.

SET-UP MENU SETTINGS:Silent mode: OFFMF focus check: OFF (I hate this check!!! when you in manual focus and you need this, you can access it with button upper to AFL/AEL, WHEN YOU NEED IT)Sound set-up: Operation vol: OFF, Shutter volume: 1/3, Shutter sound: first oneScreen set-up: Image Disp. 1,5sec, Monitor sinlight mode: ON, Auto rotate PB: ONPower management: Auto power off 2minOVF power save mode: ONColor space: sRGBAE setting: when in shooting mode, press AE(+) button on left and chose: MultiI recommend you to get wide conversion lens (WCL-X100), soft-release button and polarizing filter (DO NOT buy any cheap filters, they collect dust and not thin enough to use with wide lenses!!! I recommend B+W KSM C-POL MRC nano. Size you need is 49mm. WHY polarizing filter? First, to protect you lens and to get more deeper colors and contrast, cool looking sky/cloud photos and it minimizes wrong light reflections. I have polarize filter always on, i take it off only sunset photos.)PS. I LOVE X100S!!! Only wish they add touch-screen to next model, to fasterrelocate focus point/area, really good for street photography

You are already loosing 2 stops of light when you do not need to. Your better off bracketing the shot.

Using a polarizing filter indoors is useless, you just get dark out of focus images.

Just because you use a polarizer does not mean every shot is polarized. The position of the Sun in relation to the lens matters. You would not necessarily use it to even shoot a sunrise. A polarizer is used to remove reflections and darken the sky/clouds and is not a 100% all the time fix. It is not meant for people, it has no benefit. Using a tiffen 812 warming filter can do wonders.

A polarizer whether it be Circular or not is still a costly filter. You can buy a quality multi-coated clear protective filter and a slim profile polarizer and use it when needed. Nikon, Heliopan or B&W are all good filters.

If my intent is to make b&w images, I have the shadows +2, highlights +2, monochrome + Red filter so I can see a b&w sample of what the image will look like. I edit RAW files in Lightroom and CS6 for b&w conversion.

If I'm shooting specifically for color in mind, I'll use the default standard settings with everything at 0

Silent mode off, operational volume on, shutter sound off

Display set for sun

Zone focus while walking around (ready for action) - Up to auto ISO6400

Various settings for street photography, manual exposure and auto. I might play around with shutter priority or aperture priority, but for me it's mostly manual exposure.

You are already loosing 2 stops of light when you do not need to. Your better off bracketing the shot.

Using a polarizing filter indoors is useless, you just get dark out of focus images.

Just because you use a polarizer does not mean every shot is polarized. The position of the Sun in relation to the lens matters. You would not necessarily use it to even shoot a sunrise. A polarizer is used to remove reflections and darken the sky/clouds and is not a 100% all the time fix. It is not meant for people, it has no benefit. Using a tiffen 812 warming filter can do wonders.

A polarizer whether it be Circular or not is still a costly filter. You can buy a quality multi-coated clear protective filter and a slim profile polarizer and use it when needed. Nikon, Heliopan or B&W are all good filters.

You also can do lots in post editing.

Warm polarizers do exist.

1: with the Heliopan High Transmission polarizer the light loss is one stop. Not more like other polarizers.

2: There are many times that a polarizer would be used indoors. Glare control on glass, polished wood, tile are some reasons.

3: A multi-coated polarizer is always better then a non-multicoated one.

4: You can not do in post processing what a polarizer does in the camera. And why spend time in post when all you need do is twist the filter?

You are already loosing 2 stops of light when you do not need to. Your better off bracketing the shot.

Using a polarizing filter indoors is useless, you just get dark out of focus images.

Just because you use a polarizer does not mean every shot is polarized. The position of the Sun in relation to the lens matters. You would not necessarily use it to even shoot a sunrise. A polarizer is used to remove reflections and darken the sky/clouds and is not a 100% all the time fix. It is not meant for people, it has no benefit. Using a tiffen 812 warming filter can do wonders.

A polarizer whether it be Circular or not is still a costly filter. You can buy a quality multi-coated clear protective filter and a slim profile polarizer and use it when needed. Nikon, Heliopan or B&W are all good filters.

You also can do lots in post editing.

Warm polarizers do exist.

1: with the Heliopan High Transmission polarizer the light loss is one stop. Not more like other polarizers.

2: There are many times that a polarizer would be used indoors. Glare control on glass, polished wood, tile are some reasons.

3: A multi-coated polarizer is always better then a non-multicoated one.

4: You can not do in post processing what a polarizer does in the camera. And why spend time in post when all you need do is twist the filter?

My point is why take light "stops" away if not absolutely needed to get the shot. Cost factor on a polarizer is not as easy to replace financially as a protective filter UV or not.

One can look up the cost of the Heliopan polarizers but its pushing $200 easy.

You are already loosing 2 stops of light when you do not need to. Your better off bracketing the shot.

Using a polarizing filter indoors is useless, you just get dark out of focus images.

Just because you use a polarizer does not mean every shot is polarized. The position of the Sun in relation to the lens matters. You would not necessarily use it to even shoot a sunrise. A polarizer is used to remove reflections and darken the sky/clouds and is not a 100% all the time fix. It is not meant for people, it has no benefit. Using a tiffen 812 warming filter can do wonders.

A polarizer whether it be Circular or not is still a costly filter. You can buy a quality multi-coated clear protective filter and a slim profile polarizer and use it when needed. Nikon, Heliopan or B&W are all good filters.

You also can do lots in post editing.

Warm polarizers do exist.

1: with the Heliopan High Transmission polarizer the light loss is one stop. Not more like other polarizers.

2: There are many times that a polarizer would be used indoors. Glare control on glass, polished wood, tile are some reasons.

3: A multi-coated polarizer is always better then a non-multicoated one.

4: You can not do in post processing what a polarizer does in the camera. And why spend time in post when all you need do is twist the filter?

My point is why take light "stops" away if not absolutely needed to get the shot. Cost factor on a polarizer is not as easy to replace financially as a protective filter UV or not.

One can look up the cost of the Heliopan polarizers but its pushing $200 easy.

There are also cheap polarizers available. But the point is is that you can not duplicate or acheive in post what the polarizer can do in camera.

And regardless if it is $20.00 or $200.00 the time spent trying to remove the glare or darkening skies or seeing through the water or whitening the clouds is probably worth more then the cost of the filter anyway. Especially when you have to continue doing it in post on other shots.

Polarized lens or without - for me the end result that counts. When I started to use polarize filters, image quality was significantly improved (no flare, deeper colors and contrast). I know that the best use of this filter is achieved when shooting a 90-degree angle from the sun, but already 45 degrees is a lot of benefit.

As long as the other reflections filter has not been invented, this filter will stay in my camera. Flare is everywhere, not only on water, or a glass, all objects.

I warn again using any type of cheap filters WITH wide lenses!!! Only thin enough filter ensures that your photos are not distorted. I've tried many cheap ones and they really destroy your photos, save your money...