I am going to purchase a Weston arrow saw. What is the reason for the different RPM’s? Higher for Carbon, slower for aluminum, other way around? Or just because we can.
My daughter is starting to shoot along with my son and I. So not a lot of arrows. Until my son (dad) try shooting 80 yards at the hay bail. You just can’t find arrows after that Unless thy hit the bee hives in behind. Then nooo problem! It’s fun with the kids. Thanks.

I have the Weston arrow saw, 8000 rpm. It is a very good ‘low end’ saw not meant for ‘production’ cutting.

The 5000 rpm motors have sleeves/bushings instead of bearings, they wear out faster. It is money well spent to get the 8000 rpm saw.

The dust collector is nice if you have a vacuum to attach to it, but I don’t find it necessary for cutting only a few dozen shafts a year. If I were in production business, I’d definitely have a dust collection system instead of just a mask from the local hardware store.

The cut rate isn’t so much to do with the saw speed as with the disk grit. Slower speed, rougher grit, good for aluminum, not good for carbon … higher speed, finer grit, smoother cut, go slow and steady for both metal and carbon. Slow speed saws generally have thicker blades.

I do use a G5 ASD. I’ve made a habit of squaring both ends of the shaft, then swapping the cutter and squaring the face of the aluminum insert after installing it. I rarely have problems with broadhead alignment after that.

With super-skinny shafts, you really can’t get much offset. This isn’t a problem for target shafts that only need .5º offset, but for hunting arrows you are much better off with a helical clamp that wraps the vane around the shaft. Of course, you then need a fall away rest since any shoot through rest will have fletch contact.

Just got a new Cabela’s cut off saw. Its the 8000rpm model with dust collector. I have a pic of it under its own thread “What I got for father’s day”. I believe Apple makes this saw for Cabela’s . Cabela’s, I believe, just puts their logo on it.

With super-skinny shafts, you really can’t get much offset. This isn’t a problem for target shafts that only need .5º offset, but for hunting arrows you are much better off with a helical clamp that wraps the vane around the shaft.

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Interesting. I use 2″blazers now. Will they work with the helical? I remember playing with the helical clamps years ago with 4-5″ vanes. I didn’t think the small vanes would work well. I was thinking more of the Twister style of vanes.

You need a special jig for the 2″ vanes for helical fletch, like the Bohning Helix. It will work fine with the .232″ and .239″ diameter shafts. You can try a straight 2º offset with the super-skinney shafts (.232″ and .239″), but I didn’t have much luck.

I use FlexFletch FFP-360 vanes (3.6″) with a Bitz Helical Clamp on the VAP shafts with good results. With a straight clamp offset 2º I usually have problems with the FFP-360 vanes not adhering at the front and back tips.

Ok, so I bought the Weston 8000rpm saw. From where you said BlackDog. I haven’t received it yet. I had read somewhere that when you are looking at a shafts straightness, that measurement is based from the middle of the shaft out a certain distance. Not the full length of the arrow. Thus, each end is not considered in this rating. I thought I had saved this document, but I am unable to locate it. I cannot remember the distance. If this is indeed true, you would have to trim off both ends.