One Perfect Dish: The World's Foremost "Mustard Sommelier" on How to Make the Best Deviled Eggs

Courtesy Maille

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Harry Lalousis of La Maison Maille has traveled the world to learn everything there is to know about mustard. Now he teaches us how to whip up the perfect Dijon-infused deviled eggs.

ByLaura Feinstein on June 11, 2018

Summer is about fun, sun, and, most importantly: fantastic picnics. Be sure to stock up on rosé and pick out a great playlist, but don't forget the snacks. After all, no summer picnic would be complete without deviled-eggs, the unsung hero of warm weather dining everywhere.

To learn how to whip up the perfect batch, we tapped mustard sommelier Harry Lalousis of La Maison Maille, which since 1747 has been producing luxury mustards, vinegar, and cornichons from its Paris boutique in the 8th arrondissement. The job of a mustard sommelier, which we previously had no idea existed, is actually quite similar to that of a wine or beer expert: students are intensely trained in the history, process and tasting notes of mustards, before honing their skills at boutiques and restaurants across the globe.

“As a mustard sommelier, it’s all about tasting recipes, pairing mustard with different foods and wines, and guiding people to achieve the flavors they're looking for, using mustard," explained Lalousis. "The main part of my job is to ensure mustard and vinegar innovations have an enhanced flavor profile, and of course, offer my expertise for all mustard queries, from crop to final product.”

According to Lalousis, deviled eggs are his ultimate go-to summer entertaining dish. "I love this recipe because it’s an old classic revitalized. I’m actually making them on Friday for a dinner party I’m hosting!”

How to

Place eggs in a heavy-bottomed pot and cover with cool water by 1 to 2 inches. Vent lid and bring just to a boil. Cover pot completely, lower heat, and simmer for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, for 12 minutes. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water and let stand for 10 minutes before peeling under cool running water. Slice eggs in half lengthwise and carefully remove the yolks.

In a large bowl, use a fork or small whisk (hand mixer or stand mixer preferred) to mash together 6 full egg yolks, mayonnaise, sour cream, and Dijon mustard until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Using a spoon, a pastry bag fitted with a star or plain tip, or a zip-top plastic bag with one bottom corner snipped off, fill each egg with some of the yolk mixtures. Sprinkle each deviled egg with chopped cayenne chili pepper cornichons.

Final pro tip

“Do not fear using extra mustard. (Maille Dijon Originale will complement the dish without overtaking the flavor.) My secret is to smear the egg white bases with mustard before I pipe in the mixture. It intensifies flavors but also emulsifies and combines to give your mixture a smooth finish."