The stunning Calabrian coast

Driving off the ramp of the ferry after crossing the Straits of Messina, we entered the mysterious land of Calabria. Tales of the “miseria” (an era of hardship and famine) propelling the expulsion of entire families across the Atlantic made us think the landscape would be dry and infertile. What lay between Naples and Sicily had long been a mystery even since the days of the Grand Tour as this land was off the maps of most travellers. Whispers of bandits and mafia in this ancient land had historically frightened many off. Even today, guidebooks in Italian and English both are remarkably mute on the subject of Calabria.

Southern Calabria

Calabrian olive groves

Ancient looking olive trees

Calabria is one of the two regions I had not yet spent any time in in Italy. We had been motivated to visit by one of my readers who had told us of cristalline waters and white sandy beaches and of the wonderful people. Our interest was further aroused by Calabria’s curious global dominance in rare citrus fruits such as bergamot (used primarily in Earl Grey tea and perfumes) and citron (hugely important for Jewish religious services at Sukkot and perfect specimens can command hundreds of dollars).

Bergamot (Calabria’s citrus gold)

Perfect specimens of citron, known as etrog in Hebrew, can command huge sums during the Jewish festival of Sukkot

While Tropea is famous for its gleaming red onions which have a peculiarly delicate, sweet flavour and crunchy texture, the town is also known for its stunning scenery. There is one restaurant in particular that we enjoyed with an unparalleled view of the Santa Maria dell’Isola church called Pimm’s. Despite the British name, it serves upscale modern dishes making the most of local ingredients.

Blood red prawns

Grilled baby tuna at Pimms

Fritto misto (breaded deep-fried seafood)

Fish ravioli with clams

Fileja pasta with ‘nduja, tomato and pecorino cheese

Many of the other restaurants we tried were more rustic in preparation but all featured fresh fish (particularly tuna and swordfish) and seafood flavoured with locally grown Tropea onions, citrus, oregano and chillies. In May and June, shoals of tuna swim past this part of the coast of Calabria and the area around Pizzo has been historically known for its high quality tuna processing and bottarga production (salted, cured and matured tuna roe). The local pasta shape, fileja, is served with everything from onions, tomatoes, tuna, bottarga, aubergine/eggplant and ricotta salata to ‘nduja.

Amazingly crystalline waters

Stopping for a swim

At the end of October, we were lucky to find deserted beaches but we had also just missed the end of the ferry season with boats carrying people to see the Aeolian Islands in Sicily, including night tours of Vulcano‘s live volcano. We had been keen to see Panarea, which we were assured was a secret paradise. Alas, we must return. We did take a boat out along the Capo Vaticano coast for a morning and we had the pleasure of an animated captain and extraordinary scenery. Captain Anthony was quite an old sea dog but prepared the most delicious homemade pickled vegetables and insisted the only ‘nduja for him was the one by Caccamo.

A tre ape (three wheeled vehicle typical in Italy) selling local ingredients such as chillies, garlic, onions and oregano

Opportunistic sellers arrive with crates of mushrooms in the back of their car

Calabria is not only famous for its onions and citrus fruits but is the undisputed king of chillies (sometimes referred to jokingly as Calabrian viagra) on the peninsula. The Calabrian predilection for spice is unusual in a country with a relatively low threshold for spicy food. An iconic Calabrian product is ‘nduja, a spicy spreadable salami made in Spilinga, not far from Tropea. (See my previous post on my visit to the king of ‘nduja, Luigi Caccamo.) I also wanted to see the production of the local pecorino cheese, Pecorino di Poro, made with sheep and goat’s milk but did not manage to on this visit. More reasons to return. Mushrooms are another local product, particularly porcini, Caesar’s mushrooms, Red pine mushrooms and chanterelles. We saw men park their cars and sell crates of mushrooms out of the back of their car.

‘Nduja

Making various fiery sauces at Delizie Vaticane

Bomba rustica, one of their sauces

A dried mixture of chillies and herbs to add to pasta, this one is called “mother-in-law killer”

Delizie Vaticane makes various sauces and spreads combining the best of local peppers, onions, mushrooms and ‘nduja. We popped in to see what they were making and found some fiery concoctions which perfectly preserved the deep flavour of local ingredients.

Cleaning anchovies at Fanfulla Rosa

Perfect jarred tuna at Fanfulla Rosa

We ventured further north along the coast to see one of the major historically important tuna production areas, where in May and June every year the tuna swim near the shore. We wanted to taste the wares of the artisan yet surly Rosa Fanulla and the more industrial Callipo. On offer were tinned and bottled prime cuts of cooked tuna in olive oil, including the highly prized ventresca (tuna belly) and tonnina (tuna fillet)) and bottarga (salted and cured tuna roe) for grating over pasta.

In nearby Pizzo Calabro, an attractive seaside town of some historic military importance, we sampled their famous “tartufo“, meaning “truffle” but is a ball of hazelnut and chocolate gelati with its core filled with chocolate and rolled in cocoa powder.

Braided dried figs

Mustaccioli (an ancient, rather hard, biscuit baked into mythological shapes possibly dating back to the Arabs)

Aside from the dried oregano, dried chillies, jarred sauces, ‘nduja and jarred or tinned tuna to bring home, there are traditional sweets such as braids of dried figs, biscuits, ancient sweets and liquorice candies made by the prestigious Amarelli company. Need any more reasons to visit?

Places to visit:

Tropea:

Eat:

Genius Loci

Largo Vaccari, 51, 89861 Tropea VV

Tel: +39 345 589 6475

Located next to the top of the steps up from the beach, the terrace offers a great seaside view.

Drink:

Fame Da Lupi

This is a fantastic pub with a passionate owner. They feature artisan beers and include really interesting southern Italian microbrews from Basilicata, Calabria and Sicily. Don’t miss the the Sicilian Timili brewed from ancient grains and the beer on tap from Basilicata.

Pizzo:

Bar Ercole

Sit back and enjoy the views over the sea to the left and across the vast piazza in front and to the right of you. Bar Ercole is famous for its tartufo (hazelnut and chocolate ice cream with a liquid chocolate core). They also have cakes, granite, spumoni and other flavours of gelati and tartufi.

Callipo

Callipo has been in business since 1913, producing tinned tuna. It is more industrial than that of Rosa Fanulla below, but they offer a guided tour of the process with a reservation.

Fanulla Rosa

SS522, 11, 89812 Vibo Valentia VV

Tel: +39 0963 532304

This is a family run producer of tinned tuna (yellowfin and red), bottarga (dried tuna roe) and other local specialties (chillies, olives, fennel seeds, dried oregano, preserved aubergine or spicy anchovies) located on the road just south of Pizzo. They don’t seem enthusiastic to have visitors but do have a shop.