You have not experienced biryani until you've had it made-to-order dum style at this modestly upscale suburban Indian spot, where chef Sunil Srivavasta steams the fragrant rice dish under a dramatic pastry dome. Knife it through to release the heady perfume. All the cooking here is nicely delineated, with a subtlety that shines through the emphatic spice levels. It's refined but not wimpy. Even the staples soar, from frisky specialty naans to the paneer dishes of pillowy house-made farmer's cheese.