Let me check when I get home, I'm looking at the Aisin CMC's and i'm thinking maybe it only had one stud possibly lol. I changed it out like 6 years ago so I don't really remember well. I will check in a few hours though.

Lol, it's all good man. I was actually doing some research online and I found that almost all the listings for "OEM clutch master" had image results of 1 stud.

Also, when I looked closer at the master cyl., it looks like the empty hole (without the stud) is a larger diameter. There is a specific reason why something is not there, I just don't understand how it could change from the factory. There are two mounting points in the firewall, and the pedal assembly. And mounting just one side makes no sense.. I bought a bolt and nut for now, until someone can chime in...

Also, I went to go raise the car without being stupid this time, but something has been bothering me about the coils. The threaded collar has traveled about a little over 3/4 of the way. There isn't much travel left.. Yet my car is stupid low. Am I missing something here? I wanted to ride on stock, or at least near stock height, until I get things aligned.

But A.)I don't think that's possible looking at travel, and B.) natural law tells me maxing out your spring travel is not a good thing.. Pics for reference..

Like I can barely turn the wheel there is so much rubbing. Does that look right for the height the coils are adjusted as it stands??

Anyway, installed the clutch MC with the pedal assembly (had taken it out to PC). I ended up just getting a bolt, nut, and locking washer for the other "missing" stud. It's so weird, but I'm not going to dwell on it.

As far as the ride height goes (it's been awhile for me messing with coilovers), it seems if you drop the front and not the rears (or vice-versa), it won't sit right. So I'll be doing the rear springs with adj. FA perches and TRD struts. Then move to Cusco rear sway, panhard and "multi-link".

CloudStrife wrote:As far as the ride height goes (it's been awhile for me messing with coilovers), it seems if you drop the front and not the rears (or vice-versa), it won't sit right. So I'll be doing the rear springs with adj. FA perches and TRD struts. Then move to Cusco rear sway, panhard and "multi-link".

Jayrdee didn't you do FA rear adj. perches? Any tips on install?

Yepp! Install is very straight forward. Just be sure you get the spacers that go with it too, otherwise the perches won't clear the bump-stop mount. They should be included now, but it wouldn't hurt to double check. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you'll see it when you get under there. You can't use the bumpstops with the perches either.

In regards to your front suspension thing, perhaps the shocks you got are shorter than OEM? Even with the rear raised like it is, i feel like the front wouldn't sit THATT low with how high the springs are.

[I have no idea what I'm doing]_____________________instagram: @jacobdurbin

I mean, it's on TRD short stroke blues; AKA short stroke conversion.. But I agree and I highly doubt it is supposed to sit that low for how much spring travel is left.

I did remove and replace the crossmember, so maybe that has affected front end? I don't know. When everything is installed, and I have the shop frame straighten, I'll see if it sits better. If not I will sadly have to move to another coilover setup. That is just too low for DD duty for me.

I went back to your first page, Jay, because I remember your Levin came with the JDM short stroke setup already. Yours definitely sits higher, AND with more spring coil travel. So something is definitely up.

Interesting ... Another thing to note, on the front Volks I had 175/65 tires so the sidewall profile was massive. My new wheels I have 195/60 and even then they're still thick and give the car some height. So depending on what size tires you have that could definitely affect how high/low it is, especially if you're still on 14s. I can't really tell if you have 14s or 15s on your car.

Keep in mind too the body lines of the ae86 naturally rake forward so the front looks a lot lower than the rear, even when the height is even.

If you can't get the front worked out, looks like you might just have to lower the rear to make it match

[I have no idea what I'm doing]_____________________instagram: @jacobdurbin

Yepp! Just like that. Only thing is the FA adjustables are completely solid, like a cup, so you won't be able to use the bump stops. Idk what brand is pictured, but it looks like the center is hollowed out so the bump stops will fit.

As far as the rubber, you will be able to use the bottom rubber(s), but idk about the top. They're not really needed though since you're essentially replacing the top insulator with the adjustable perch.

Side note: I wish the whole assembly was flipped vertically. I hate how the adjustable perch is upside down like that because it makes adjusting the height a pain in the ass. I'm so low that the perch is high up in the cavity in the chassis, so in order for me to adjust the springs I have to drop the axle ...

[I have no idea what I'm doing]_____________________instagram: @jacobdurbin

Thanks man! Yes, I'm a little let down. The whole point of getting these versus "true" rear coils, was to avoid going such a difficult route and have easy adjustability.. Lol oh well. Fortunately dropping the axle isn't that hard.

I actually called Grant like a total newb and he helped me through it, but it was like you and I talked about.

Sooo there are three bump stops, and you gotta cut all of em' off, right? I see now what the perch is for, It was impossible to fathom online lol.

Yeah they should be bolted onto the conical cup(s), and you have to get it from underneath the vehicle. Like, take a deep-well socket and go at it from the bottom. You should see the bolt(s) inside the bumpstop.

Another side note: In the old FA review, where the dude was complaining about the perches not clearing, he was talking about that conical cup. He ended up cutting those off, but FA now provides a spacer to make them fit.

[I have no idea what I'm doing]_____________________instagram: @jacobdurbin

Yes, now I see, the only way it made sense to me is actual install..! Thanks for the tips though. I've never been so confused with suspension, and I've taken a lot of stuff apart lol.But multi-link suspension with separate coil and shock is pretty unique to JDM cars.

I was gonna upload picture.. but my hosting site is down *eyeroll*.Anyway, got everything installed and looks good. I was going to finish with the suspension upgrades, but it looks like my Cusco panhard/track bar was missing the axle-side bushing . No auto-part stores carry the axle bushing side for some reason (only the chassis side), So I had to Ebay it.

CloudStrife wrote:UGH. Can anyone give me a shot of the orientation of the washers on the bottom (axle mount) for the rear shocks?

The PO switched them on either side, and I have no idea what is correct. The 14x54 blurry image in FSM does nothing.

Should the two washers "cup" the bushing/shock assembly like a hamburger, or is it the other way around? Not sure if that makes sense.

Mine were flipped outwards when I got the car, so I installed them like that again. I think its its supposed to cup the bushing(s) (why else would they make a washer like that?) but the washer wouldn't clear the bottom of the shock assembly (if I remember correctly) so I just flipped them and called it a day. Even then, there's so much pressure on that one section of the shock body I doubt anything will come loose so it doesn't really matter. I had toughest time trying to get the shock assembly mounted on the axle. Ended up having to use some bearing grease and a huge mallet to get the sucker on

[I have no idea what I'm doing]_____________________instagram: @jacobdurbin

Lol yup, that is basically how it went. I tried being nice and raising/lowering the diff until it was "happy", but still gave some light rubber mallet tapsss..

Yeah, I looked at a bunch of rear shock assemblies of different older chassis, and all the ones like the 86 mounted the way you would think it wouldn't mount. Plus one side was stuck a certain way since the mounting bolt wouldn't fully come out, so I just went with the old way as well.

*Also.. What did you do torque-wise on the actual shock top nut? I tried using my fancy crow's feet adapter for the torque wrench-which worked- however it worked too well.. I ended up over torquing and did some slight stripping. Thankfully a hardware replacement took care of it, but right now I'm running on 3 visible threads since I'm not sure how far to go.. FSM says 18 ft-lbs, and according to SAE torque chart, it's like a little over a 1/4 turn (12 ft-lbs for 10mm grade 5). Sooooo I dunno dude.

Pics died , will try and re-host. Panhard, spring/sperch, shock assembled. Going for sway next, then onto the mysterious multi-link suspension with Jubride traction brackets. It does not look fun lol.

The open end with the three adjustment holes faces towards the front of the car...

The other two larger holes are for the fixing bolts. Note that there is a LH an RH bracket, and they will only fit on the correct side. Also note that one of the fixing bolts has to go in on an angle to line with the holes in the OEM bracket. This can (and probably will) make them unreasonably difficult to install. Take you time and be prepared to do a lot of gentle levering with a large screwdriver and a lot of tapping with a small hammer to get the crush tubes lined up before tapping the bolt into place.

Try and resist any temptation to get the BFH out, as straightening stuff out can be a pain as well

EDIT: OK... I wrote the above before I actually had a proper look at the Jubiride brackets. They are a two-piece bracket so you get lucky on the installation There is no need to have a thru-bolt on an angle as Jubiride use a short bolt on either size which should make installation a breeze.

I'll leave the first part of this reply there, as it may be useful to someone installing the one-piece style brackets that are the more common version.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

Thanks for the reply, I actually figured out the proper orientation just studying your thread and looking at other traction brackets.

I ran into a problem however, where the largest (or I guess widest) sleeve, simply refuses to go into the largest diameter hole (the unused one).

I know that sleeve needs to go through the axle bracket, as it is too long to put inside the bracket (the smaller sleeve does this and you fixate it on the bolt holes and slide your bolt through to anchor).

I initially thought it was due to the extra "thickness" of anodizing; but that has to be marginal at best. I sanded it down anyway and still it refuses to push through that larger diam. hole.. I bought a circular file, however I am wary about changing the diameter of the mounting hole and throwing things off.

It's difficult to be sure without having the bits in front of me, but it looks like there is one long sleeve between the rearward lower holes and fits between the Juburide side plates as a spacer. Then there is a shorter sleeve that goes between the front upper holes. This one could be short enough to fit between the axle bracket side plates and act as a crush tube to stop the axle bracket from getting squeezed closed.

So if I picked that right, neither of the tubes has to go inside the holes in the axle bracket. On the GRP4 brackets I used the sleeve did go thru the axle bracket and ended up flush with the outside of the bracket on both sides.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

Unfortunately I'm still not seeing this orientation.. Probably one of those things that are 10x easier to describe in person.

So going off my picture, that rear upper hole has to coincide with the largest hole diameter on the axle bracket. That being said, if I stick any bolt through that opening, and, say, use the short sleeve (there is only one long/short sleeve per side), then their is too much slack in this hole.. I.E., it's short length does not take up the entire length of the axle bracket.>

I'm not sure if it makes sense, but there is too much slack, using the short sleeve. Even if I torque it down, the length of the sleeve is too short to take up all the space between both axle bracket sides..

But I can't use the longer sleeve, as It won't slide through the axle bracket hole; it's too big.

OK... if I'm reading this right, the long sleeve does go thru the top rear hole, and that is where I believe it should fit. So you tighten that one up and then when you go to fit the short sleeve, it doesn't touch the axle bracket sides .

If I remember correctly, when I fitted mine, I had a similar situation. When I tightened up the thru-bolt it had to pull the axle side plates together before they came into contact with the ends of the sleeve. If I hadn't been moderately pissed with the amount of effort involved in getting the traction brackets to that point, I would have pulled the bolt out and slipped one or two washers between the ends of the sleeve and the side plates.

Since it is just acting as a spacer, I don't think fitting washers is a problem. You may have to add a couple more washers to the bolt that carries the end of the trailing arm, so get a few spares.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.