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Yes. It spins from the break in the neck like both surviving sabers. Exactly like my last one.

The blade holder screws into the neck. But the entire emitter rotates around the blade holder. The emitter envelopes the emitter head and rotates around it, gliding on a thin walled needle roller bearing

Excellent work man! We all thought the chunk was beveled or round or not and this interesting shape would explain the drama.

browninsh metal?

halliwax said:

To me it looks like a brown dirty metal

I think the one originally used was steel or something, so it aged over time and use to that color (whether before or after its use on the V2, I don't know). I'm not sure if they make, or ever made them in steel, but currently these things are made typically in zinc. I think you can age zinc down and age it that color.

I think the one originally used was steel or something, so it aged over time and use to that color (whether before or after its use on the V2, I don't know). I'm not sure if they make, or ever made them in steel, but currently these things are made typically in zinc. I think you can age zinc down and age it that color.

I think the leather tool is a good candidate for what might have been originally used. But, without better pictures, we won't really know for sure. Also, there are so many different types of these tools, it would be hard to reverse engineer from any given found item. We wouldn't know if we were working from the right one, unless we had exact measurements from Brandon, and then the discussion would be moot anyways. I've done my best to match the size and shape shown in the MH clip, which to me is the clearest picture that's been made publicly available, and incorporate the detail I've been told is there by those in the know.

Nice progress Dan and Roy. Eh . . . do we know
what this circle is or what it's covering up in the
pommel section? And is that a tiny black arrow
seemingly to point to the center?

ChaÔm

To me, this looks like a plug up for the wires used in the original lightsaber SFX. Since this was connected as Obi-Wan's SFX saber from a new hope it makes sense that they'd plug up the hole where the wires came out of the pommel that connected to the motor that made the emitter spin. You can kind of see the wires coming out of Ben's lightsaber in ANH in this screenshot below, looks like they were thin enough to be hidden in his robes and about the size of said hole. The arrow on the bit could be an orientation indicator made in a permanent marker so it never rubbed off even after the prop was completed

Anakin Starkiller said:

Hello everyone,

Over the past few months, I've been revising my Luke V2 model and I think I've just about got it bang on.
I asked Roy last week to work his 3d magic and wip up some comparison photos from me and he has done an amazing job.

I submit them here for your consideration. Comments are welcome and appreciated. Roy noticed that the cone knob look off my a couple mm, and I've corrected this already on the step file.

Also, I think the top part of your emitter should be thicker, you can see in the first pic how there's no gaffers tape on the spinning part of the emitter. They probably did this for strength during the original production of ANH considering how rough this prop was used. The gaffer's tape does make it a tad thicker, but not as thick as your model sugggests, So far though it is near perfection

To me, this looks like a plug up for the wires used in the original lightsaber SFX. ..

Also, I think the top part of your emitter should be thicker, you can see in the first pic how there's no gaffers tape on the spinning part of the emitter. They probably did this for strength during the original production of ANH considering how rough this prop was used. The gaffer's tape does make it a tad thicker, but not as thick as your model sugggests, So far though it is near perfection

Circle is nothing more than a milling mark confirmed by a member that's handled it. The switch for the spinning motor came out the hole that the cone knob is plugging and the wire for the battery pack came out the hole the "Mystery Chunk" is plugging.

Gaffer tape was added to the "neck" to secure the emitter for use in RotJ, it only looks as thick as it does in these new photos because it's unfurling after 30 years.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but what would be the benefit of this to you if it looks the same either way?

Many people preferred the multi-piece design of you previous V2s, when once the saber was assembled and the neck prevented from rotating by gaffers tape was identical in outward appearance to the uni-body. And yet, having the correct hollow internals, ability to separate the saber, having the correct weight and balance as the original prop are HUGE positives for some, and the reason they went with your multi-piece V2 designs vs. Solo's Hold's FX-ready sabers.

Roman chose not to jettison his original OB1 sabers once he had his hollow effects versions ready for sale. He knew that many folks would still want a reproduction that was accurate on both the outside and inside so that these buyers could hold something of identical overall construction as the original, with its weight and balance.

Many folks prefer to have a Graflex replica with working internals to know that it's not just the outside that is accurate, but the inside parts as well. You'll note that when Roman did a poll of how many folks felt it was important to have a real working Graflex replica vs. just one that looked like a Graflex outwardly, the majority preferred a replica that was a Graflex through and through.

So I guess I prefer a replica that doesn't just LOOK like what Mark Hamill held on the set of ROTJ (having the correct outward dimensions), but also FEELS like what he held (number of parts, partially hollow for motor, etc., but not overly-hollow for FX, and the associated correct weight of the overall saber).

Nothing against your work. The model looks fantastic. Just trying my best to answer your question.

Very good job you did, once again.
Maybe you can release an accuracy kit (emitter and pommel) for those who already have a v2 (2nd run) and a fx ready for the others since the grenade was already pretty accurate to the original one ?

I'm interested in hearing what you guys think about the pommel on my model. In the Hammel shot, it seems to match exactly. In the FB shot, it seems a little off. Now one possibility is that the pommel was in a different position. Another is that the cubes vary in their angles and orientation. Another is that this is just due to lens distortion.

I had begun to model a pommel with differentlty angled cubes to try and match the fb picture. But I noticed that the pommel seems to extend farther on the left than the right, which doesn't make sense if the pommel was turned on a lathe. This left me back at square one thinking the camera distortion might just be screwing with me.

it's a tough one. In the vertical image you can see that the central cube is spot on but left and right are off. This much can't be due to lens distortion, but might mean that they are very unevenly spread.

I'm interested in hearing what you guys think about the pommel on my model. In the Hammel shot, it seems to match exactly. In the FB shot, it seems a little off. Now one possibility is that the pommel was in a different position. Another is that the cubes vary in their angles and orientation. Another is that this is just due to lens distortion.

I had begun to model a pommel with differentlty angled cubes to try and match the fb picture. But I noticed that the pommel seems to extend farther on the left than the right, which doesn't make sense if the pommel was turned on a lathe. This left me back at square one thinking the camera distortion might just be screwing with me.

Any advise?

I held your Version 1 multi piece against the real deal in my hands, and your saber from booster down was within 1-3% correct. It was very very close in pommel cubes, dimensions, etc. I wouldn't change much on it. From the clamp up it was small scaling issues and the overall length of the ribbed section was too short. The emitter was too wide, and various other small differences in measurements. But from the clamp down it was pretty dang close. We compared them pretty well.

That's really interesting to hear. I have been told by some people who bought my earlier kits that, after Brandon released the FB pic, they thought the booster section was too long. But maybe it was the opposite, maybe the ribbed grip section was a little bit too short. This is interesting and a bit confusing, but I'm going to mull it over and play around with 3d models and see what I can come up with. If you have any more info that you can share I'd really appreciate hearing it.

I'm interested in hearing what you guys think about the pommel on my model. In the Hammel shot, it seems to match exactly. In the FB shot, it seems a little off. Now one possibility is that the pommel was in a different position. Another is that the cubes vary in their angles and orientation. Another is that this is just due to lens distortion.

I had begun to model a pommel with differentlty angled cubes to try and match the fb picture. But I noticed that the pommel seems to extend farther on the left than the right, which doesn't make sense if the pommel was turned on a lathe. This left me back at square one thinking the camera distortion might just be screwing with me.

Any advise?

Any replica I see of the V2, V3, or Hero almost always looks off with the pommel. Your replicas seem to be the only ones that get that area right, so I'd trust yourself on that one.

It also looks like the space between the pommel cubes is the same thickness from one to the next. Like, if you look at the edge of the cube ring, in between the cubes, the model makes a curve as if it was milled out with a round thing. The original prop looks like it matches the arc of the pommel, making sharp corners with the cubes.