Leah Poulton – Explore BChttp://blog.hellobc.com
The Official Tourism & Travel Blog of British ColumbiaFri, 16 Feb 2018 23:48:18 +0000en-UShourly1https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3A Tulip Festival Getaway in Harrison Hot Springshttp://blog.hellobc.com/tulip-festival-getaway-in-harrison-hot-springs/
http://blog.hellobc.com/tulip-festival-getaway-in-harrison-hot-springs/#respondWed, 15 Apr 2015 21:10:23 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=20061Vancouver is an amazing place – but sometimes, you just need to get out of the city. And the best thing about this place is,...

]]>Vancouver is an amazing place – but sometimes, you just need to get out of the city. And the best thing about this place is, when you do, you have endless options; in a matter of minutes, you can be out of the downtown core and cruising towards a getaway in BC’s nature, whether your version of that is camping in the remote backcountry, or somewhere a little bit more refined (but still tucked away in the woods). Harrison Hot Springs is an example of the latter – at around two hours from downtown Vancouver, it’s totally doable as a weekend or even overnight vacation, whether you’re a local or just visiting BC. And if you’re looking for an April escape, it can make for the perfect home base from which to explore the popular Tulips of the Valley Festival.

Harrison is almost just what you’d think of if you closed your eyes and pictured “seaside vacation town”, except that instead of the sea, it hugs the southern shore of a 77 kilometre (48 mile) long sparkling blue, glacier-fed lake, ringed by layers of steep, tree-covered peaks. It’s as beautiful as it sounds, even when blanketed in a layer of signature British Columbia mist.

View of Harrison Lake on a misty afternoon. Photo: Julia Crawford

The views aren’t it, either – what really makes the town unique is the hot springs from which it gets its name. The best way to get the full hot springs experience is to stay at the classic Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa (in operation since the 1920s) – guests get unlimited access to its five pools (three outdoor, two indoor), which vary in temperature, from 28C/83F to 40C/104F. One of the pools is adults only, while the others are family-friendly up until a certain time. The two indoor pools are open until 1am, which is a bonus for night owls like me. Whenever I visit, I’m always struck by the variety of people who are drawn to the resort and its pools – it’s not uncommon to find yourself soaking next to a visitor from the other side of the globe.

We weren’t at all phased by the rain, thanks to the pools – there’s actually something quite lovely about soaking in a mineral hot pool while being lightly misted from above. It was like the resort and nature joined forces to give us the ultimate spa treatment. Which is probably why we felt both a pre- and post-dinner soak were in order (I probably would have slept in the pools too, if that were medically advisable).

Room with a view: looking out over the lake from the West Tower at the resort, before the skies cleared. Photo: Julia Crawford

Note that the pools are for resort guests only (but if you’re staying elsewhere in Harrison you can visit the public pool just down the street in the centre of the village, for a small fee).

But Harrison Hot Springs isn’t all about the hot springs – when you done with soaking, there’s also that huge, beautiful lake and the nature that surrounds it to explore. In the chillier shoulder season when a swim in the glacier-fed lake isn’t in the cards (unless you’re braver than most), and if you aren’t up for a bundled-up excursion in a kayak, you can still get to know the area from the water via a guided boat tour with Harrison Eco Tours. We headed out on a morning tour, cruising out of the lake and onto the Harrison River, all the way down to where it meets the muddy waters of the mighty Fraser – which, as our guide told us, is prime sturgeon fishing territory, and in the fall, when the salmon are spawning, the salmon fishing and bear-spotting opportunities are abundant.

Boarding with Harrison Eco Tours. Photo: Julia Crawford

Speeding away from the village, with the resort towers on the far right and the rest of the village to the left

Moody skies over the Harrison River. Photo: Julia Crawford

Although the local wildlife eluded us on this occasion, the beautiful scenery more than made up for it. Spotting ancient petroglyphs etched into the cliffs was also a highlight – our guide informed us they were likely created by the ancestors of the local Stó:lō Nation (which means “People of the River”) – as was watching a group in a traditional canoe speed along the shoreline. In true BC style, the weather took us on a bit of a joy ride, but luckily the boat was covered, so we were comfy and dry despite the quickly changing conditions. The changing light actually added an extra layer of drama to the scenery.

Trying to get a shot of the faded petroglyphs – try and spot the little white spiral.

Back on land, we decided to squeeze in a quick peek of Harrison’s lovely neighbour: Sasquatch Provincial Park. A 13 kilometre (8 mile) hilly, scenic drive along the east side of the lake (where we stumbled across a tiny art gallery in the middle of a rainstorm) took us to the entrance of the park, which has three smaller lakes within it, as well as three campgrounds. I’ve camped at Deer Lake in the past and loved it – this time, we wandered around Hicks Lake, taking in the scenery with only a couple of other people to be seen (the beauty of off-season exploration).

After a full morning of exploring the river and the forest (complemented by practically every type of BC weather), it was time for the main event: Tulips of the Valley – just a quick 15 minute drive from the resort. Over the last 10 years, the festival has grown to the point of attracting upwards of 20,000 visitors during its two week run, with photographers to flower enthusiasts and everyone in between making the journey east along Highway 7 to Seabird Island in the small community of Agassiz. And as soon as we caught our first glimpse of the bright, rolling fields, we could understand why:

I definitely wouldn’t describe myself as a flower enthusiast, but I was completely blown away by the scope of the fields, with their dramatic backdrop of coastal mountains. It was like something you think you’d see in Holland, but right in Vancouver’s backyard. It’s the kind of scene that’s hard to convey in photos – you just really have to be there. And we were so glad we were.

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/tulip-festival-getaway-in-harrison-hot-springs/feed/0Craft Beer in Vancouver: Gastownhttp://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-gastown-vancouver/
http://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-gastown-vancouver/#respondThu, 26 Feb 2015 10:18:12 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=17332As one of Vancouver‘s best known ‘hoods, you may have heard of it even if you’ve never been there – it’s a standard on “must-visit”...

]]>As one of Vancouver‘s best known ‘hoods, you may have heard of it even if you’ve never been there – it’s a standard on “must-visit” Vancouver lists, and a common recommendation from locals. The downtown area of Gastown is perhaps best known for the infamous (loved by visitors/ignored by locals) steam clock, but it’s also a hotbed of bars and restaurants, including some great craft beer establishments. Which is why I thought it was about time to add a Gastown edition to our series of walking beer crawl routes. So, if you please, read (& sip) on:

Our route. Click to open in Google Maps

Stop One: Steamworks Brewpub

We started our day as any smart beer crawlers would – with lunch. Served, of course, with a side of beer, at Steamworks Brewpub. One of the neighbourhood’s oldest purveyors of craft beer (they were filling growlers before most people had even heard of them), Steamworks lives up to its name: when they took over the building in 1995, they discovered a unique steam heat system, and decided to take advantage of the opportunity and become Canada’s only steam generated brewery.

Tanks at Steamworks Brewpub. Photo: Julia Crawford

While they still brew some batches at the brewpub, much of the production has been moved to a larger brewing facility in nearby Burnaby (but not TOO large – they’ve stayed true to their craft roots). Being fall when we visited, we were able to try out their just-released Pumpkin Ale, a Vancouver seasonal favourite. I’m a big fan of their Pilsner as well, which is available at the brewpub all year round, and in liquor stores.

Beers on offer at Steamworks Brewpub. Photo: Julia Crawford

The brewpub is quite large, with more of a restaurant than brewery vibe, which means it’s a good bet if you’re with a bigger group in busy Gastown. Their lunch and dinner menus are solid as well, and its proximity to Waterfront SkyTrain Station means it’s easy to get to from most places in the city.

Sampling the brews at Steamworks. Photo: Julia Crawford

Stop Two: The Lamplighter Public House

Just a few blocks east, on the corner of Abbott and Water Streets, you’ll find the Lamplighter Public House. While they’ve always had a decent beer list (something its proprietors, the Donnelly Group, have put great effort into), they recently stepped it up a notch by re-vamping their entire taps system and lineup – they’re now offering up 40 options for craft beer on tap. Which meant we of course had to stop in for a sleeve.

Beer menu at Lamplighter Public House. Photo: Julia Crawford

Being part of a bigger group of establishments means the Lamplighter can offer up great deals on craft beer that normally pours at a bit of a premium (their Happy Hour specials on weekdays from 3-6 are awesome, by BC standards). On this Saturday afternoon, we ordered up a veritable rainbow of brews from their local and American craft taps.

Happy beer crawlers at the Lamplighter

Stop Three: Postmark Brewing

Disclaimer: our next stop isn’t technically in Gastown; it’s two blocks east of Gastown’s official border of Main Street, which means it’s actually part of the historic Railtown neighbourhood (where the city of Vancouver was born). Let’s just put technicalities aside though, for the sake of our crawl, and say it’s close enough.

Postmark Brewing is fairly new on the scene – opened in mid-2014, it calls the historic Settlement Building home (along with the Vancouver Urban Winery). It’s an absolutely beautiful space; the owners have done a fantastic job of updating, without compromising its heritage features. One of my favourite things about Postmark is the Growler Station window, which is located just outside the main doors to the building. I know from personal experience how convenient this is when you’re looking for beer to go in the summertime.

Growler station at Postmark Brewing. Photo: Julia Crawford

But we, however, were looking for beer to stay, so we snagged a table and got down to it. One of the benefits of it sharing the space with several other businesses is that you can enjoy not just Postmark’s beer, but also wine from Vancouver Urban Winery and food from the Belgard Kitchen, all without leaving your seat. Some among our group decided to break up the beer tour with tasting flights of wine, while the rest of us stuck with the beer. The tasty, tasty beer.

Taster paddles galore at Postmark Brewing. Photo: Julia Crawford

Shiny new taps at Postmark. Photo: Julia Crawford

Wine tasters at Postmark. Photo: Julia Crawford

Stop Four: The Alibi Room

One of the originals of the Vancouver craft beer scene, the Alibi Room should be a required visit for any craft beer enthusiast in Vancouver, regardless of which neighbourhood you’re staying in. At the very eastern edge of Gastown (at Alexander & Main St.), the Alibi has a long, yet carefully curated list of mostly local and west coast US beers – and you’re not likely to see the same list the next time you visit, as they’re constantly rotating and updating their taps. But be warned: because it’s so awesome, it gets busy. Expect a bit of a wait if you’re with a larger group.

As we were quite a large (and thirsty) group, we split into two smaller groups to fit into the available space at their long communal tables. I’m not going to recommend a specific beer, as the tap list is so constantly changing, and they really do have something for everyone’s tastes (including cider). If you’re not familiar with what’s on offer, just ask your server – they’re all well-versed in craft beer.

Heavenly beer at the Alibi Room. Photo: Julia Crawford

Stop Five: The Portside Pub

As we headed back west so some of our crawlers could get back on the SkyTrain, we made one final stop at The Portside Pub. They have a pretty great lineup of BC and other craft beers, plus a cozy lower level that kind of makes you feel like you’re either on a boat, or in a basement tavern in Nova Scotia. Judging by their Maritime-inspired menu, that seems to be what they’re going for. Mission accomplished, Portside.

Just a few of the beer options at Portside Pub. Photo: Julia Crawford

Note that as of around 8pm on Fridays and Saturdays, the velvet ropes, bouncers and DJs come out, and Portside turns into a more of a nightclub. Which, if you’re into that kind of thing, means you’ll be able to dance your little heart out while continuing to enjoy their beer list. And if you’re not, you’ll want to visit earlier rather than later. Also, we chose to loop back to Portside at the end of the crawl, but you could also visit it on your way east, before Alibi and Postmark.

Honourable mentions/other options:

Six Acres– just across the cobblestone intersection from Portside is one of my Gastown favourites, Six Acres. Its only real downside in the context of a beer crawl is its size – if I thought there was any way our large group would get a spot on a Saturday evening (it’s only open after 5pm), it would have been on the list. That being said, if you’ve got a smaller group, definitely make a stop at Six Acres – it’ll win you over with its charm (of which its cozy size is part, as are the menus housed in old book covers, the old murder mystery radio shows playing in the washrooms and the people watching opportunities provided by its tiny patio).

Bitter Tasting Room – as per their Twitter bio, Bitter is “Vancouver’s finest bottle focused beer tasting room”. While the Alibi rules the Gastown draught game, Bitter has a great list of craft beer by the bottle, both local and import. They also serve some draught, in 16 oz. glasses or by the growler (not to go, but to drink at your table). I’ve yet to eat there, but the food menu looks pretty tasty as well.

Rogue Kitchen and Wetbar– Rogue is even closer to Waterfront Station than its neighbour Steamworks (who it shares owners with) – it’s literally inside the station. It has a big, solid beer list with lots of BC craft options, plus wine, cocktails and full lunch and dinner menus. It’s also quite large, so if you’re not able to get into Steamworks, you can head next door without having to compromise on quality beer.

]]>It’s the type of scene you’d expect to find in Iceland, or maybe New Zealand – dramatic, glacial-formed peaks and fjords, filled with dark, smooth seas, disturbed only by the tail of a humpback whale or a pod of white-sided dolphins. Wet, quiet, dusky old growth forests, draped tops-to-roots in green moss, criss-crossed with trails made and maintained by bears. Mist and rainbows. So much mist and rainbows. It’s the stuff travel bucket lists are made of, yet many North Americans aren’t even aware this exists in their very own backyard. I was lucky enough to experience the Great Bear Rainforest (and some of Northern Vancouver Island) first-hand in early fall, and I can say without hesitation that it’s my favourite travel experience to date.

When we arrived in Port Hardy for our transfer float plane flight to Nimmo Bay Resort, I still had no idea what we were in for – unfortunately for us, the rain was full-on in the rainforest that morning. Canadian to the core, I apologized to the others in the group for the weather and told them I’d been hoping for clear skies for our flight so they could take in the scenery.

And then suddenly, as if the weather gods had been listening in, the clouds parted on cue, and we found ourselves taking off in that perfect, in-between moment that we coastal residents know well – when the sun has just started to break through the clouds, which are still sprinkling, and the sky lights up with rainbows (some like to credit science, but I prefer magic). And the best part is, the experience only got better from there – but I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. Here are a selection of shots from our trip, including our flight from Port Hardy to Nimmo Bay Resort, the area around the resort (including Little Nimmo Bay and Broughton Archipelago), Telegraph Cove and Alert Bay:

I wasn’t exaggerating about the rainbows – view from our flight to Nimmo Bay

Sea from above

The magical central coast

So, Many. Rainbows.

Our first glimpse of Nimmo Bay Resort, from above

Touching down in paradise

Just one of a thousand amazing scenes from the boat on our day of marine wildlife viewing

Dramatic skies, dramatic seas

Photographer Jordan Manley capturing some of the sights, which included humpbacks, orcas, sea lions, seals and eagles

The tiny floating town of Sullivan Bay, home to 50 people in peak summer months

We went on the most amazing cultural tour with Mike Willie of Seawolf Adventures. He’s helping to lead a revival of the traditions and culture of the area’s original residents, the local Aboriginal bands, after years of suppression. We saw several big houses which are in frequent use, including this one at Fort Rupert on northern Vancouver Island

The world’s tallest totem pole is found in Alert Bay, a community of about 1,600 on Cormorant Island, just across the water from Port McNeill

The Big House at Alert Bay is used for community potlatches

The residential school in Alert Bay, one of only three left standing in BC, is a stark reminder of a very dark period in Canadian history. Mike told us that his mother and uncle were removed from their homes and forced to live here when they were children.

At the top of Alert Bay, you’ll find a wetland. It’s actually man-made, the result of a dam that was built for a cannery built on the water in the mid-1900s

Mike Willie showing us an example of a CMT (culturally modified tree). His ancestors would strategically remove only the parts of the tree they needed, on a rotating basis, so that damage to the forest was minimized.

Totem poles stand watch over the Anglican cemetery on Alert Bay, a snapshot of two very different cultures in one small place

]]>While it’s true that the craft beer scene in Vancouver has been absolutely booming (gushing? overflowing?), the growth hasn’t been limited to Vancouver proper; the city’s surrounding areas have seen breweries and craft beer establishments popping up almost just as quickly. One such area is North Vancouver (more commonly referred to by locals as the North Shore or North Van). I decided it was high time to explore North Van’s craft beer offerings for myself, and rounded up a few enthusiastic beer drinkers to do exactly that on a recent sunny weekend.

For those who aren’t familiar with the geography of Vancouver, North Vancouver is the community stretching along the base of those picturesque mountains you can see from downtown (those same mountains that offer us an insane amount of year-round outdoor adventures). One important thing to note is that, unlike the Main Street or Commercial Drive routes I’ve written about before, the stops on this North Vancouver route are spread a little further apart; at approximately 8 kilometres (5 miles) from the first to last stop, this route would take you close to two hours to walk. Luckily though, the five stops on this route are clustered around two major transit hubs in North Vancouver: Londsdale Quay and the Phibbs Exchange. So if you can’t sweet talk anyone into being your designated driver, you can take advantage of our public transit system and catch a ride along the route for just $2.75.

On this fine Saturday morning, our group hopped on the convenient Seabus from downtown Vancouver and enjoyed the views of the retreating city skyline as we cruised across Vancouver Harbour toward the North Shore, readying ourselves for the day of craft beer ahead.

STOP ONE: Black Kettle Brewing

We had decided to work from west to east, which made our first stop of the day Black Kettle Brewing. Opened in January 2014, it’s the newest addition to the North Van beer scene and, from what we experienced, a good one! It’s tucked away in an industrial area just west of the Londsdale Quay Market (where you’re dropped by the Seabus), but still easily accessible, via a 15 minute walk /5 minute drive.

Sipping at the bar at Black Kettle Brewing. Photo: Julia Crawford

They’ve installed a small tasting area (including a cool wooden bar across the garage door opening, pictured above) in the cozy brewery, where you can enjoy the fruits of their labour while watching them brew more of the same practically right next to you (one of my favourite things about small breweries). We sipped on glasses of the pale ale, wheat and IPA – the easy-drinking pale was my personal favourite – and they also have a rotating seasonal tap, which happened to be out unfortunately. They offer growler fills, and are starting to pop up on tap around North Vancouver and Vancouver proper. I’ll definitely be stopping in again next time I’m on the North Shore.

Pale ale and wheat ale at Black Kettle. Photo: Julia Crawford

STOP TWO: Green Leaf Brewing

Next, it was a short trip back to where we started at the Quay to visit what I’m willing to venture is one of its most popular vendors, Green Leaf Brewing.

Green Leaf at the Londsdale Quay. Photo: Julia Crawford

Located just inside the main Seabus-side entrance to the market, Green Leaf benefits from a ton of foot traffic from both visitors and locals coming off the Seabus or shopping at the Quay. The small-but-charming tasting room (with bonus views of the very pretty brewing area) was close to full when we arrived, but we managed to score a table just big enough to hold our taster paddles (which really, is all you need). We were able to try all four brews they were offering on tap, and my pick of the lot was the Acid Trip sour wheat ale – just mildly sour, and so very refreshing (Green Leaf is pretty unique in the Vancouver scene with starting to brew sour/Brett-style beers right out of the gate). Being right at the Seabus, Green Leaf is definitely the most accessible by transit, and would be a great way to add a little extra flavour to a Saturday shopping trip to the Quay. They also offer snacks, so fuel up before you head onwards for more beer!

Paddles at Green Leaf Brewing. Photo: Julia Crawford

A life philosophy I can get behind. Photo: Julia Crawford

STOP THREE: the district

Our next target was just around the corner, and somewhere I’d visited before: the district, a local favourite for Belgian beers and great food. We arrived just as they’d opened, and were able to grab one of their patio tables in the sun. We soon had Belgian beers (both on tap and by the bottle) in hand, making for a perfect mid-crawl break in the sun between the four breweries. While their menu is Belgian-dominated (which is just fine by me!), they also offer Vancouver brewery Russell on tap; you can see their drink menu here. While we didn’t eat here this time, I’ve eaten here before and can recommend it as a solid choice.

On the sunny patio at district social. Photo: Julia Crawford

A bottle of Chimay pairs perfectly with summer. Photo: Julia Crawford

STOP FOUR: Deep Cove Brewers & Distillers

After district, it was time for the longest journey on our route – east to the other end of North Vancouver to visit our the final two spots on our list: Deep Cove Brewers and Distillers and Bridge Brewing. First up was Deep Cove.

While I’d had their beer on numerous occasions around the city, I’d never visited the tasting room and was quite surprised; unlike some of its counterparts in North Van, Deep Cove’s tasting room is far from industrial – we walked in to find a full bar, numerous seating options, lavish, almost castle-like wooden doors between the tasting and brewing areas, a show motorcycle parked near the entrance, and even a local musician serenading us from the corner! As you can tell by their name, they also run a small distillery; both spirits by the bottle and beer by the bottle and growler are available to buy in the tasting room – as well as tasters, of course, which we partook in quite happily. Look for their beer in local liquor stores, as well as on tap around Greater Vancouver.

Tasters, anyone? Photo: Julia Crawford

Spirits on offer at Deep Cove Brewing. Photo: Julia Crawford

STOP FIVE: Bridge Brewing

Last but definitely not least, we set our sights for Bridge Brewing, just blocks away from Deep Cove on Dollarton Highway. I’ve been a fan of Bridge ever since I first visited when they opened in 2012, and was glad to see they were full of happy customers both filling growlers to go and sipping on beers in the tasting room by the time we arrived late on Saturday afternoon. Owner Leigh filled their signature beer-can-shaped glasses with pale ale and saison (my fave!), as the sun streamed in through the open garage door across the wooden bar-top. It was the perfect place to end our day. Besides their popular growler fills, you can find their beer in bottles at local liquor stores as well as on tap at an increasing number of establishments.

Welcome to Bridge. Photo: Julia Crawford

Bridge’s owner pouring a glass of their saison. Photo: Julia Crawford

The best way to end a day. Photo: Julia Crawford

Note that this crawl can, of course, be done in the opposite direction, or in parts if you’re not up for a full day of beer drinking. Please use a designated driver or public transit, and drink responsibly!

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-north-vancouver/feed/2Local’s Tip: a Transit-Accessible Hike in North Vancouverhttp://blog.hellobc.com/transit-accessible-hike-in-north-vancouver/
http://blog.hellobc.com/transit-accessible-hike-in-north-vancouver/#commentsWed, 03 Sep 2014 10:00:54 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=13570One of the things I really love about Vancouver is that it’s completely possible to live or visit here without having access to a vehicle....

]]>One of the things I really love about Vancouver is that it’s completely possible to live or visit here without having access to a vehicle. The city is well-known for being bike friendly, and the transit system is far-reaching and easy enough to navigate to give locals and visitors alike the ability to enjoy a huge variety of activities. And hiking is no exception; you can find public transit-accessible hikes all over the Greater Vancouver area, including in North Vancouver – which is home to one of my favourite transit-accessible routes, the Baden Powell trail (specifically, the section between Lynn Canyon and Deep Cove). This five-hour, 11 kilometre/7 mile section of the overall 48 kilometre/30 mile trail takes you through old growth forest (making it perfect for a hot summer day), and is book-ended by two popular destinations: Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge and Quarry Rock in Deep Cove. For me, it’s the perfect way to spend a day in the forest, without having to travel far from the comforts of home. Here’s what you can expect, based on my experience:

Step one: get yourself from wherever you are in Vancouver to the SeaBus terminal at Waterfront Station (schedule here). After a scenic float across from downtown Vancouver (try to snag a spot at the back of the boat for prime downtown skyline photo ops), you’ll arrive at the Londsdale Quay in North Vancouver (or as many locals call it, the North Shore).

Londsdale Quay in North Vancouver. Photo: Julia Crawford

Depending on how eager you are to get hiking, the Quay is a great place to stop and fuel up with a coffee and a snack (it’s also home to a market, plenty of shops and summer events). Then it’s time to hop on the 229 bus to head to Lynn Canyon Park, where you’ll start your hike by crossing the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge (free!). Keep in mind: if you arrive around mid-day on a Saturday or Sunday (which is exactly what we did on this occasion, whoops), the park will be very busy. Aim for a weekday or early morning, and you might just have the bridge to yourself.

A busy Saturday at Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge

Looking straight down from the bridge

Once across, look for signs that say “Baden Powell” (or the orange triangle with “BP” inside) and you’re off! The first section of the trail is a combination of well-maintained stairs and boardwalks, and still may be a bit crowded on busier days, as it also grants access to the pools at the bottom of the canyon.

The beginning of the trail is a short climb up some stairs

Easy going along the beginning of the trail

Sign for Twin Falls

After this first section, the crowds will thin and you’ll have a short climb up, followed by an easy descent into the bottom of the canyon. If it’s been raining recently, it can get a little muddy down here, but in mid-summer it’s usually perfectly dry, cool, quiet and so very GREEN. Prehistoric-looking ferns and skunk cabbage line the boardwalks as your make your way along the path.

So much green! Photo: Mary Leighton

After a leisurely stroll through the trees along the valley floor, it’s time for your first big ascent. I’m always impressed by the trail maintenance on the Baden Powell – there’s no scrambling up hills on this trail.

The trail is well-marked along the way – it was named after Lord Baden Powell, the founder of the worldwide Scouts movement

After the climb up, you’ll emerge from the forest and cross a road (which can be bit of a shock to the system after being in the quiet forest for so long), but it’s not long before you’re back in the trees. Next is another climb down (fairly steep, but again well-maintained with stairs and railings). You’ll cross the Seymour River and continue on for a relatively flat few kilometres, before the biggest climb of the hike: up the side of Mount Seymour.

Back down to cross the river. Photo: Mary Leighton

This is the part of the hike when you’ll be glad you lugged that giant water bottle in your bag for the last two hours – the slow and steady, conversation-killer, “I know there’s a payoff for this at the end” section of the trail.

Once you cross the road that climbs up Mount Seymour, you can rest assured you’re almost at the top. You’ll start seeing ladder bridges and the mountain bikers who ride them, as their trails cross the Baden Powell at several points (and in my case, you’ll pant a “hello” and offer a shaky wave and contemplate asking for a ride down). But once the trail flattens out, the climb is quickly forgotten; this is my favourite part of the hike, as spirits are up after conquering the climb, and you know Quarry Rock is not too far off. The stunning old-growth forest scenery doesn’t hurt either.

Leaving Mount Seymour Provincial Park

And then, after a short section along the side of a quiet road, the trees part and…

View of Deep Cove from behind Quarry Rock

…you emerge into the sunlight to realize you’re high up above Quarry Rock and the vistas of Deep Cove.

Our picnic spot on Quarry Rock. Photo: Mary Leighton

Quarry Rock provides a stunning view over Deep Cove and the Indian Arm, and is also accessible via a short trail from Deep Cove (but that’s not nearly as fun as a four-hour hike, is it?). After taking in the views/suntanning/eating the last of your snacks, it’s this short section of trail (approximately 40 minutes) that you’ll finish off your hike with.

Why I love this place

You’ll suddenly emerge from the forest and find yourself in bustling Deep Cove, where all types of comfort await – a dip in the sea (if you’ve come prepared), a cold beer, an ice cream cone, a burger or just a SEAT. If you’re adventurous (or in better shape than I), you can also end your afternoon by renting canoes or kayaks and exploring Indian Arm. Once you’ve restored/rewarded yourself adequately, you’ll catch the 212 + 210 or 211 bus(es) back to Vancouver, depending on where you’re headed (your best bet is to wait at the stop above the park and ask the first driver to arrive). And there you have it: a full day of North Shore awesomeness, car-free!

]]>There’s just something about BC’s Gulf Islands that’s hard to explain – a certain laid-back vibe of their relatively few but passionate residents, an untamed, yet contained wildness, a slight slowing of time… if you’ve ever spent time on any of them, you’ll know what I mean. The closest to Vancouver of the southern group of Gulf Islands, and perhaps one of the most untamed due to its geography (read: rocky) and history (once much of its land was used as a tree farm by the lumber industry; now much of it is protected from development, thanks to community initiatives) is Galiano Island. I hadn’t visited since childhood, so had managed to forget just how special of a place it really is. Luckily, a recent weekend trip was all it took to remind me.

Galiano Island, BC. Click photo for full Google map.

We caught the last BC Ferry out from Tsawassen on Friday after work, so spent our first evening relaxing on the deck at our lovely borrowed home for the weekend, Arrow’s Run Cottage. But Saturday morning we were up bright and early to start exploring the sunny, heavily forested 28 kilometre (17 mile)-long island, armed with an impressively informative map created by the friendly and knowledgeable owners of Arrow’s Run, Rocky and Ralph.

Our first order of business? Finding the closest beach for a morning stroll. One thing I love about Galiano is that on top of the larger, more obvious beaches, there are dozens of smaller beach access points around the island, which have all been very handily numbered. We strolled down the road to beach access #55 on the eastern shores of the island and found a gorgeous, tree-lined sandstone beach, which looked back towards the mainland. The morning clouds were just burning off, which made for dramatic skies.

On the hunt for beach access #55

A windy morning on the beach on Galiano Island, near beach access #55.

Tidal pools teeming with tiny crabs

When it comes to exploring, sandstone beats sand any day

Next up was exploring the south end of the island (which is where most of Galiano’s 1,200 full-time residents and the island’s amenities call home). And what better way to do it than by moped? We picked up our rides for the afternoon in Montague Harbour Marina, and we were off, cruising along tree-lined, hilly roads, with most other traffic in the form of the island’s deer population.

Why walk when you can scoot?

Our first stop was Bellhouse Provincial Park, on the southern tip of the island. With a view out over Active Pass, this is prime whale watching territory (it’s common to spot them passing by right from the shore). Also, a pretty great spot for a picnic.

View from Bellhouse Park

Path through the long grasses at Bellhouse Park

After exploring Bellhouse, we hopped back on our mopeds and headed towards a visitors’ favourite: Bluffs Park, or simply, “the Bluffs”. Established in the 1940s, The Bluffs is a 120-hectare park that provides some incredible views of Active Pass and the other Gulf Islands. It’s easily accessible by vehicle, or via a moderate 8 kilometre (5 mile) trail. But no matter how you get up there, I can almost guarantee you’ll enjoy the payoff:

Looking out over Mayne and other Gulf Islands from The Bluffs

Several short trails lead to additional viewpoints

The Bluffs would make for another fantastic picnic spot (in fact, I’m having a hard time thinking of a spot we visited that I wouldn’t want to park for the afternoon with a basket full of food and cold beer). Note: if you’re looking for a more challenging hike with a potentially even better view, you can climb nearby Mount Galiano in about an hour (you can read about that hike here).

Heading back towards Montague Harbour, we took a little detour to the Galiano Cemetery – not specifically to see the cemetery (although it was interesting to see where some of Galiano’s original pioneers were laid to rest), but because it’s the access point for Collison Reef. A short walk through the cemetery takes you down to the water, where you can see a daily congregation of excitable sea lions (they spend high tide out hunting and then return to this same rock in the bay to sun themselves as the tide lowers). We arrived just after the tide began to recede, so there were only a few of them hanging on the rock so far – but we saw (or should I say heard?) more arriving every minute we watched.

A pile of sea lions at Collison Reef

Entrance to the Galiano Cemetery

Speaking of cold beer – after all that exploring, it was what was required. And we found plenty of that, plus some of the best pizza I’ve had in a long time at the Galiano Island Inn & Spa. Between the inn and the waterfront, they have an adorable outdoor pizza patio, complete with wood fired pizza oven and beer and wine on tap. I would highly recommend stopping in for a slice while you take in yet another awesome seaside view. Oh, and did I mention that the Inn is also a spa, which includes hot tubs sharing that same view? Yes. Please.

Our final must-do for the south island on day one was a bit of an unusual one: a ride aboard the Hummingbird Pub Bus. Every hour starting at 5pm, the island’s favourite watering hole sends an old school bus down to Montague Harbour Marina to pick up Gulf Island locals (many of who come in on their boats for dinner) and tourists alike to take them to the pub (and back again). But what’s so great about this isn’t the fact that they do it, it’s who’s doing it. Bus driver (/author and motivational speaker) Tommy Transit is a local legend – as soon as we saw the full set of cymbals mounted above the driver’s seat and the drumsticks on the dashboard, we could see why; his energy was totally infectious. I won’t spoil too much of the experience, but if you’re going to check out the Hummingbird (which you should), this is the way to get there – just look for the crowd forming on the road leading to the marina at the top of each hour.

The Hummingbird Pub Bus in all its glory

On day two, we headed north (this time via car) to explore the much wilder northern half of the island. But first, a stop to see the white shell beaches at Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park was in order.

Shell beach in Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park

Montague Harbour was designated the first marine park in British Columbia in 1959, but the Coast Salish peoples had inhabited the area for thousands of years before that. The unique white shell beaches are a result of centuries of their discarded clam, oyster and abalone shells – over the years, storms have eroded the beach and crushed and bleached the shells, which now cover the sand. Would have loved to spend a day here (there were plenty of campers in the park heading to the beach for the day as the sun came out), but we had more exploring to do!

An easy loop hike takes you into the forest and to the shell beaches

Galiano’s version of public art

Arbutus trees line the path around Gray Peninsula in Montague Park

Back on the road, we continued our northward journey along the main drag, Porlier Pass Road, with a quick stop at Ganner Drive; the intersection is home to three local artists’ studios. The pottery by Sandra Dolph at Cedar Grove Gallery was particularly stunning (and how awesome is the little building nestled amongst the trees?)

Cedar Grove Gallery features pottery by local artist Sandra Dolph

Just a couple of kilometres up the road lies Retreat Cove. As our ever-informative map told us, “the western shore of Galiano Island is predominantly steep bluffs, which are breached in only a few places. Retreat Cove is one of those places.” But besides the sea access, what makes Retreat Cove really cool is the small sandstone caves that have been carved out of the shoreline. They’re fairly easy to explore (just a short trail from Retreat Cove Road), but note that they’re on private property so be sure to tread lightly.

Sandstone caves at Retreat Cove

Sandstone caves at Retreat Cove

Our final destination on the north end of the island, near the well-known Bodega Ridge Resort, was Stoneworld – which is just as unusual as it sounds. Founded by local artist Steve Ocsko (who has since passed away) Stoneworld is where he completed much of his beautiful and intricate stone carving work. When developing the property, he excavated giant slabs of rock, some weighing as much as four tonnes; and rather than paying to have the incredibly heavy stones shipped away, he arranged them around the property in a Stonehenge-like manner (and the result is quite impressive). His partner Barbara Gearey still lives and works on the property (along with a friendly flock of sheep); she was in the studio when we arrived so we were lucky enough to get a tour and hear some of Steve’s story directly from her. Her photography, which is displayed onsite, is also stunning.

Welcome to Stoneworld Studio

Stones and sheep in the dry grasses

Steve’s former workshop, constructed around a tree

(I’ve hardly done the property credit, so if you’re curious, check out this video for more:)

Although we didn’t quite make it all the way to the northern tip (also known as Dionisio Point Provincial Park, a hike-in or marine-access only park), our second and final day on Galiano was pretty successful when it came to exploring. We had also planned to make a stop at Lovers’ Leap viewpoint on our way south, which we heard provides a stunning/nerve-wracking view straight down off the aforementioned steep bluffs, but unfortunately our ferry reservation beckoned and we had to skip it. We did, however, have just enough time to grab a couple of scoops from the aptly-named Scoops back at the south end of the island in Sturdies Bay before our trip home.

Sturdies Bay is where the ferries dock, and also where you can find ice cream and burgers at Scoops

Armed with our ice cream, we boarded the ferry for the scenic 45-minute ride back to the mainland, which I would argue is the perfect way to ease your way out of those Gulf Island vibes and back into real life. It’s pretty hard to beat a ferry ride on a sunny day in Active Pass. Already thinking about our next trip back – perhaps a hike-camp trip into Dionisio Park? For a 28 kilometre (17 mile)-long island, there are a lot of possibilities.

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/weekend-on-galiano-island/feed/11Greenheart Canopy Walkway at the UBC Botanical Gardenhttp://blog.hellobc.com/greenheart-canopy-walkway-at-the-ubc-botanical-garden/
http://blog.hellobc.com/greenheart-canopy-walkway-at-the-ubc-botanical-garden/#commentsTue, 06 May 2014 18:58:07 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=13565As a long-time city-dweller, I’m always looking for an opportunity to escape into nature – even if it’s just for a moment. Luckily, Vancouver is...

]]>As a long-time city-dweller, I’m always looking for an opportunity to escape into nature – even if it’s just for a moment. Luckily, Vancouver is rife with opportunity to connect with the ocean, the mountains and my favourite of all, the forest, all within minutes of its downtown core. My most recent opportunity to escape into the woods was an especially great one, as I found myself not only walking amongst the trees, but above them, on the Greenheart Canopy Walkway at the University of British Columbia (UBC)’s Botanical Garden.

The University of BC has pretty much got it made when it comes to location; perched on the western-most tip of Vancouver proper (also known as Point Grey), it’s surrounded by parkland to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. The lush strip of forest right along along the water is where you’ll find the Botanical Garden, and within it, the Greenheart Canopy Walkway.

Although it’s been around since 2007, the Greenheart Canopy Walkway is a bit of a Vancouver hidden gem – it doesn’t have near the profile of other Vancouver attractions. Which is a shame, because at only $24 for an all inclusive pass (Botanical Garden + Nitobe Garden + Canopy Walkway guided tour), it’s a steal for a day’s worth of nature. We headed to UBC one recent sunny Saturday to experience the whole package for ourselves.

Our day started with a guided tour of the 310 metre (1,017 foot) long canopy walkway. As our tour guide led us and the handful of others on our tour along the narrow suspended walkways, pausing at each of the platforms to tell us about the trees we could see (and touch), I was instantly awed – when you’re so used to looking up at trees, there’s something pretty amazing about being ABOVE them. You could look down and see the tops of trees beneath your feet:

Panoramic view from the second platform (click to enlarge). Photo: Leah Poulton

It was fascinating to learn more about the west coast forest that I’d grown up in (yet knew shockingly little about) – for example, did you know that the Douglas Fir is not actually a fir, but a pine tree? Or that the sap of the Grand Fir has antibiotic properties? I sure didn’t. You can explore the canopy walkway on your own without a guide, but I’d highly recommend the guided tour!

View from the second story of the highest platform. Photo: Leah Poulton

Each platform is centred around a tree – this one’s a cedar. Photo: Robyn Hanson

The whole structure was built by a local organization, Greenheart Conservation Company, and is unique in its eco-friendly design; the walkways and platforms aren’t actually attached to the trees, but are instead suspended by a complex system of ropes and rubber stoppers, thus preventing any damage to the trees themselves.

The platforms are supported by a system of ropes above and rubber stoppers, which don’t actually puncture the bark of the tree. Photo: Leah Poulton

After our 45-minute tour, we took some time to explore the surrounding gardens – and we were glad we did: the sun was shining, and everything was in full bloom after a wet few weeks.

The garden was in full bloom in late April. Photo: Leah Poulton

Compared to Butchart and some of BC’S other well-known gardens, the UBC Botanical Garden is relatively unmanicured – it’s less of a show garden and more of a showcase of a huge variety of different plant species (basically, a botanist’s dream). It’s divided into different sections, with everything from a Food Garden to an Asian Garden to a BC Native Garden (see the map below), and each plant is meticulously tagged for identification. There’s also a store, where you can buy native species to plant in a west coast garden of your own.

Checking out the Hollow Tree, also found in the Asian Garden. Photo: Robyn Hanson

A tunnel under Southwest Marine Drive separates the Asian Garden from the North Garden. Photo: Leah Poulton

After the Asian garden with its maples, ferns and towering trees, a close second-favourite was the BC Native Garden, which is through the tunnel above in the North Gardens – the flowering skunk cabbage and quiet murmur of frogs reminded me of growing up near Burns Bog (the largest undeveloped landmass in North America) in Delta, just southeast of Vancouver.

Our intrepid photographer at work in the BC Native Garden. Photo: Leah Poulton

After a beautiful afternoon in the gardens, we headed back to our city dwellings with connection to nature fully restored. And now that I know I can get my forest fix at UBC, just 15 minutes from downtown, I’ll definitely be back!

Robyn the tree-hugger! Photo: Leah Poulton

The UBC Botanical Garden is open 9:30am-5pm daily and is easily accessible by transit or vehicle. The Greenheart Canopy Walkway is open 10am-4pm daily, with tours offered at the top of each hour. For more info, see the UBC Botanical Garden website.

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/greenheart-canopy-walkway-at-the-ubc-botanical-garden/feed/5Craft Beer in Vancouver: Commercial Drivehttp://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-vancouver-commercial-drive/
http://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-vancouver-commercial-drive/#commentsMon, 24 Mar 2014 03:01:24 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=12840After having such a great time on our last Vancouver craft beer crawl on Main Street, we’d been itching to get out and do it again....

]]>After having such a great time on our last Vancouver craft beer crawl on Main Street, we’d been itching to get out and do it again. And with the recent addition of highly anticipated Bomber Brewing to an already thriving beer neighbourhood, a crawl of East Vancouver’s Commercial Drive seemed like the next logical choice.

And so, we found ourselves setting out on a wet Saturday afternoon to crawl this East Van ‘hood, which has truly become a craft brewing hotbed. While our Main Street crawl was more centred around bars with great beer lists, the north end of Commercial Drive is now home to 4 breweries within just blocks of each other, so this crawl would be more about getting the beer right at the source. But, first things first, we needed to eat.

STOP ONE: St Augustine’s

Undeterred by the near-monsoon rains, we gathered at Commercial Drive favourite St. Augustine’s to get some brunch in our bellies before the day of beer tasting ahead.

An optimistic outlook on the weather at St. Augustine’s. Photo: Jon Mandell

St. Augustine’s is one of Vancouver’s most popular craft beer bars, and with good reason – a tap list of more than 60 (yes, sixty) craft beers with a Pacific Northwest focus, a solid menu and a location right next to the Commercial-Broadway SkyTrain station make it an easy sell. It’s definitely got a neighbourhood pub kind of vibe, especially during Canucks games, and you’ll find a mixed crowd of hardcore beer nerds, Commercial Drive locals, and families alike.

Warm and dry for the moment, we settled right in for our first sips of the crawl; friends sipped on Parallel 49 Brewing‘s new Radler (a low alcohol, beer-grapefruit juice hybrid) while I opted for a taster paddle to ease into the afternoon ($8.50 gets you a taster of any 4 beers on the menu – I often use this to decide what I want to order as my first full sleeve).

Beer paddle at St. Augustine’s. Photo: Jon Mandell

Delicious eggs benny at St. Augustine’s. Photo: Jon Mandell

Perhaps the most awesome feature of St. Augustine’s (besides the size of their beer list, of course) is their electronic beer menus – they show the level of beer in every keg on tap in real time, so that you’ll know if the one you’re hoping to try is about to tap out. They’re displayed above the bar, and also in the men’s washroom (and I’m always hoping they’ll make it to the ladies’ at some point… hint, hint). You can even check the current beer levels from home before you go, as the same feed appears on the home page of their website.

Live beer menus at St. Augustine’s. Photo: Jon Mandell

After clearing our plates and emptying our glasses, we headed out on the ten minute walk north to our next stop.

STOP TWO: Biercraft

Crawlin’ north along Commercial Drive. Photo: Jon Mandell

Biercraft Tap & Tapas on Commercial Drive. Photo: Jon Mandell

As you may have guessed from the name, Biercraft is a beer bar with a Belgian focus (they also, however, offer some local favourites on tap, including several from the new Bomber Brewing – the two actually share owners). With 20 beers on tap and a Belgian-heavy bottle menu of 100, you can put in a pretty good session at either of their locations (they’re also further west on Cambie Street). I had a glass of my usual Biercraft go-to: the Belgian blonde ale Houblon Chouffe.

Aiming for the perfect pour. Photo: Jon Mandell

Biercraft is great at serving beers in their proper glassware. Photo: Jon Mandell

Being a Belgian bar means that they, of course, offer mussels (as well as oysters), which hit the spot for several among our crew.

Oysters + beer = awesome. Photo: Jon Mandell

STOP THREE: Bomber Brewing

After our round of Belgians, Bombers and seafood, we grabbed our umbrellas and headed just a few blocks north-west to our next stop, the aforementioned and new kid on the block, Bomber Brewing.

Bomber Brewing on the Adenac bike route. Photo: Jon Mandell

These guys have only been open for a few weeks, but they’re already doing all kinds of things right: firstly, they’re located right on the well-used Adanac bike route, and have installed an air compressor in their front wall (as a beer-loving cyclist, this makes me happy on several levels). Secondly, the tasting room is gorgeous (polished concrete floors and tiled ceiling? I like). And last, but definitely not least, the beer is good. Especially the ESB and the Pilsner.

Tasting room at Bomber Brewing. You can also buy beer to go. Photo: Jon Mandell

A sleeve of the Bomber Pilsner. Photo: Jon Mandell

Growlers in custom leather carriers. Photo: Jon Mandell

They serve two glass sizes (16 oz sleeve and a full 20 oz pint), plus taster paddles. They had five beers on offer when we visited, and the unanimous group favourite was the ESB (which you can buy in cans in private liquor stores around the city, or at the brewery in can or growler form).

STOP FOUR: Storm Brewing

The intended next stop on the tour was Storm Brewing, the longest-standing brewery in the ‘hood. Unfortunately, we were a bit behind schedule and had friends waiting for us at the next stop, so we didn’t make it in this time; but fortunately, I’ve visited Storm on many an occasion before, so I can still speak with authority on their awesomeness.

Storm Brewing on a sunnier day this winter. Photo: Leah Poulton

Storm is known for doing things a little outside the box, and this can be seen in both their beer and their brewery. They don’t bottle their beer at all, so in order to try it you have to find it on tap around Vancouver, or head straight to the source for a growler fill. Their experimental and delicious Imperial Flanders Red Ale took everyone by surprise a couple of years ago, at a time when there weren’t a lot of BC breweries producing sour beers. And when it comes to their tasting room, it lacks the slick presentation of the other breweries in the area, but you feel like you’re drinking your tasters right next to the actual equipment that helped to brew them, which is pretty cool in itself. They usually have their standard brews on offer for sampling (by donation), which include the Hurricane IPA, Highland Scottish Ale, Black Plague Stout and Precipitation Pilsner.

STOP FIVE: Odd Society Distillery

The next stop on our Saturday crawl wasn’t actually beer-related, but it definitely falls under the category of “craft” so we decided it was worthy of a spot on the list regardless. Odd Society Spirits is a small batch distillery that opened several months ago on Powell Street. As of right now, they produce vodka and cassis, a sweet red liqueur, in a gorgeous distilling facility that’s fully visible from the tasting room area. Plus, they’ve just upgraded their liquor license so that they can serve fancy cocktails in the tasting room, rather than just plain tasters. Their bartender wasn’t on duty when we visited, but luckily owner Miriam Karp was able to improvise with a round of simple-yet-delicious vodka-cassis-soda cocktails for our crew of crawlers. The cocktail combined with the quiet, eclectic tasting room made for a perfect break from our busy beer crawl schedule.

Odd Society Spirits distillery on Powell Street. Photo: Jon Mandell

Tasting room at Odd Society. Photo: Jon Mandell

Owner Miriam Karp preparing cocktails. Photo: Jon Mandell

Cheers to a solid day of craft! Photo: Jon Mandell

STOP SIX: Powell Street Brewing Co.

Next on our list was Odd Society neighbour and 2013 Canadian Beer of the Year award winner, Powell Street Craft Brewery. Powell Street is a nanobrewery, which means it’s a system less than 4.5hl (450L) in size; or, the equivalent of about 9 standard size kegs or about 690 bomber bottles per batch (aka much less than its microbrewery counterparts). These small batches they produce also happen to be really, really good. So what this means in real-life terms is, don’t wait around if you want to stop by Powell Street for a beer or a growler fill – it goes fast! (but in case you do miss out, their beer is also offered in bottles at private liquor stores around the city) On this Saturday afternoon, we were lucky enough to find space in the cozy tasting room that was nearly full up with other thirsty beer drinkers, and try out the four beers they had tap.

Powell Street Craft Brewery is a nanobrewery in East Vancouver. Photo: Jon Mandell

They were pouring a White IPA, a Stout, their Dive Bomb Porter (inspired by the huge murder of crows that flies over East Van almost nightly), and a Belgian Witbier with ginger and cardamom. Most of our group opted for the white IPA, while my addiction to anything containing ginger led me to the Witbier.

STOP SEVEN: Parallel 49 Brewing Co.

Our final stop for the day was perhaps East Vancouver’s most widely known brewery, Parallel 49 Brewing. Owned by the same crew responsible for St. Augustine’s, P49 has made a name for itself with its four standard brews (Old Boy Classic Ale, Hoparazzi India Pale Lager, Gypsy Tears Red Ale and Lord of the Hops IPA), which are widely available in BC Liquor and private liquor stores, as well as a whole rainbow of seasonal brews – ranging from an imperial Russian stout with double-digit alcohol levels to the easy-drinking Seedspitter Watermelon Ale.

When we arrived, the tasting room was hopping as usual, with a mix between people waiting for growler fills to go and those of us who were staying for beers. Each day they offer up a beer mixed with something interesting via their infusion tower, and I had to try the daily offering of Gypsy Tears with rosehips. It was quite subtle, and good!

We ended our day here, happy to relax with a final pint and dinner from the food truck parked outside (which rotates on a near-daily basis), while we chatted about which neighbourhood we should explore next. There are still a couple of key Vancouver craft beer ‘hoods to go, so stay tuned!

Note that this crawl can, of course, be done in the opposite direction, or in parts if you’re not up for a full day of beer drinking. And at a total distance of 3.4 kilometres (2.1 miles) of walking, there’s no reason to bring a vehicle. Drink responsibly!

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-vancouver-commercial-drive/feed/3A Beer Goggles Weekend at Red Mountain Resorthttp://blog.hellobc.com/beer-goggles-red-mountain-resort/
http://blog.hellobc.com/beer-goggles-red-mountain-resort/#respondSun, 16 Mar 2014 01:53:51 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=12308There are few things for me in this world as satisfying after a day of snowboarding as a pint of beer… especially when it’s really...

]]>There are few things for me in this world as satisfying after a day of snowboarding as a pint of beer… especially when it’s really good snowboarding, and really good beer. So when Red Mountain Resort decided to take that concept to the next level by throwing an entire craft beer festival at the base of their mountain, it was a pretty easy decision for me on whether I wanted to attend. I was in. So very in.

Red Resort is just outside Rossland, BC, which is located in almost the dead centre of the province, and just north of the Canada-US border. It’s also one of eight resorts on the snow-lovers’ dream road trip route, the aptly-named Powder Highway. There are a couple of ways to get there: if you’ve got the time (and the snow tires), you can make a winter road trip out of it (8 hours from Vancouver to the west, 7 hours from Calgary, AB to the east and 2.5 hours from Spokane, WA to the south). If you want to get from home to the slopes as soon as possible, you can fly from Vancouver into nearby Trail with Pacific Coastal Airlines in an hour. Our keen crew chose the latter, and lucked out with a perfect day for flying:

About to take off from YVR with Pacific Coastal Airlines

Flying into Trail, BC

Despite my initial irrational fears due to the small size of the plane, we landed safe and sound in Trail after a smooth and sunny 1-hour flight. It didn’t take long to realize we weren’t in Vancouver anymore:

Honesty jar at the Trail Airport

If you’re looking for all the frills and gimmicks, Red might not be the place for you. But if you’re looking for authenticity, character and sharing amazing ski terrain with what feels like only a handful of other people – you’re in the right spot. And on this particular weekend, it was also the place to be for craft beer lovers. Basically, I was in my happy place. I mean, look at our cabin:

Our old-school A-frame cabin at Red Mountain. The resort also offers a variety of other accommodations, including new condos and a lodge.

After checking in, we took one look at the fresh snow and blue skies and headed straight to the chairlift. And the further up we went, the better the views got (and the more snow there was):

View from the Motherlode Chairlift, heading up Granite Mountain

Runs almost to ourselves

The view from our lunchtime spot, the Wiener Takes All wiener shack

Red Mountain Resort is actually three mountains in one: the original Red Mountain, Granite Mountain in the middle and then Grey Mountain, which was only just opened this season after a big resort expansion. We of course had to check out the new terrain, so we headed up the brand new Grey Mountain chairlift and were even further blown away by the scenery (and again – that snow!):

View from Grey Mountain chairlift, looking towards Granite Mountain

View from Grey Mountain

Sun shining on Red Mountain as we head down towards the lodge

After a solid afternoon of riding, we decided we’d earned ourselves a little apres and headed to the infamous Rafters Lounge (so named because it’s literally in the rafters of the day lodge) where we warmed ourselves with some spiced whisky (which happens to share a name with another Kootenays town, Revelstoke):

Revel Stoke Spiced Whisky at Rafters

It was early to bed on night one, because day two was BEER FEST DAY. The temperature dropped sharply overnight, so we didn’t last long on the hill in the morning (the windchill was too much for our delicate coastal sensibilities). But come 2pm, we bundled up and joined 300 other thirsty craft beer enthusiasts in the tents at the base of the hill for the first annual Beer Goggles Fest.

There were eleven BC craft breweries in attendance, ranging from nearby Kootenays brewers like Mt. Begbie Brewery and Nelson Brewing to Okanagan establishments like Tree Brewing and Cannery Brewing to Vancover favourites like Parallel 49 Brewing and Central City Brewing. Although smaller than most Vancouver beer fests, it was still a great showcase of the breadth of quality craft beer being brewed across the province. Plus, it somehow felt different – it had that friendly Kootenays vibe that you just don’t find in some of BC’s bigger cities. I got to enjoy a bunch of old favourites, plus a couple of new ones (like Nelson Brewing’s not-yet-released ginger beer).

Later that night, we found ourselves back at Rafters to see Portland band the Thermals play in what was probably the most intimate venue I’ve ever experienced (without exaggeration, it felt like we were watching them in someone’s basement. A really cool basement that also has craft beer on tap and shots you do with your friends off a ski). For a resort with such a small village, Red manages to have a surprisingly vibrant music scene, with quality live bands regularly playing at Rafters (chalk another point up for them being my new favourite).

It snowed all day Saturday, and then it snowed all night, which meant that we awoke to a bounty of fresh powder on our final day at Red. After the Brewer’s Cup Race, in which representatives from all of the breweries competed in feats of ski racing and beer drinking (don’t worry, not at the same time), and the People’s Choice Awards were handed out (Vancouver’s Parallel 49 Brewing took the gold), we headed back to the hills.

Unfortunately, Monday morning had to arrive at some point, and so, jello-legged from three days of riding and full of beer, we sadly said goodbye to Red and headed west towards Vancouver and real life. I’m already counting down the days till next year’s Beer Goggles Fest (approximately 350, if you’re curious). If you’re a craft beer lover like me, do yourself a favour and do the same!

]]>http://blog.hellobc.com/beer-goggles-red-mountain-resort/feed/0Craft Beer in Vancouver: Main Streethttp://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-vancouver-main-street/
http://blog.hellobc.com/craft-beer-in-vancouver-main-street/#commentsThu, 05 Dec 2013 18:53:36 +0000http://blog.hellobc.com/?p=10330Vancouver has long been known as a destination for lovers of the outdoors, thanks to its unique geography and mild climate. But more recently, the...

]]>Vancouver has long been known as a destination for lovers of the outdoors, thanks to its unique geography and mild climate. But more recently, the city has begun to earn a reputation with another type of traveller: the craft beer enthusiast. This should come as no surprise; craft beer is booming across the province, and nowhere more than in its biggest city. Hundreds turn out for events such as Vancouver Craft Beer Week and the BC Beer Awards, and in the last two years alone, dozens of new breweries have opened up in and around the city to add to an already-thriving scene. Beer lovers, take note: Vancouver is becoming a legitimate craft beer destination.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of these breweries and craft beer establishments have sprung up in clusters around different neighbourhoods. This makes for the perfect weekend adventure for visitors and locals alike: a walking craft beer crawl. As a certified beer nerd, I can’t think of many better ways to spend my weekends, and so over the next several weeks I plan to showcase some of my favourite craft beer spots, by neighbourhood.

First up? My main stomping grounds, Main Street. The plan? Two craft beer-focused bars, four breweries, one day. Let the crawling begin!

Our Main Street beer crawl route. Click to open in Google Maps

STOP ONE: CRAFT Beer Market

As seasoned beer drinkers, we realized that a solid day of beer crawling would require a solid breakfast, and thus decided to begin our day with brunch at the newest addition to the Southeast False Creek / Olympic Village neighbourhood, CRAFT Beer Market.

Housed in the historic Salt Building, a lone remnant of False Creek’s manufacturing roots, the interior of CRAFT truly is stunning. And, not to mention, huge; even with its more than 400 seats, the miles-high ceilings make it feels like you’ve got endless space. One of my favourite features is the maze of metal-encased beer lines that snake up from the bar in the middle of the room and down into the depths below, where their hundreds of kegs of beer are housed.

Some of the many beer lines above the bar at CRAFT Beer Market in Vancouver. Photo: Jon Mandell

But enough about the space – we were there for the beer. Which they happen to have in abundance, in the form of 140 (!!) taps. Most of CRAFT’s taps do indeed serve up craft beer, with a good selection of those from BC (check out their current list here). Seeing as the focus of the day was Main Street, most of us at the table opted for an ultra-local Main Street Pilsner along with our brunch.

STOP TWO: Tap & Barrel

With our bellies filled and the first pints of the day drained, we set out on the very short walk across the Olympic Village main square to another craft beer bar, Tap & Barrel.

Photo: Jon Mandell

Tap & Barrel is perhaps best known for its not one, but TWO waterfront patios, which overlook the seawall, False Creek and the downtown skyline (seriously, a patio seat at Tap & Barrel on a Saturday in mid-July is worth its weight in gold). They shut down their 2nd story patio for the winter, but have enclosed the main floor patio and added heaters for those who still want to enjoy the premium view from outside. We, however, opted to sit inside, and ended up sipping our pints underneath these awesome beer keg lights:

Beer decor at Tap & Barrel in Vancouver. Photo: Jon Mandell

The tap list at Tap & Barrel, while smaller than its neighbour CRAFT’s, has the distinction of being made up of 100% BC beers. They also serve BC wine on tap, and a small selection of ciders. All but one of our crew opted for the dark and delicious Backhand of God Stout from Crannóg Ales out of Sorrento (north of Salmon Arm). This is a go-to BC beer for me, especially in the winter time.

STOP THREE: Steel Toad Brewing Co.

The Olympic Village neighbourhood has been growing in leaps and bounds, and Steel Toad was another welcome addition to the ‘hood. Another restored heritage building, though not as big as CRAFT, it has a similar vibe – more like a restaurant than your typical cozy brewery. But make no mistake: the beer is brewed fresh, just metres from your table in the large, airy dining area.

Steel Toad Brewing

They usually have 6-7 of their brews on tap, plus one or two on cask (yes – they have a cask engine behind the bar), which rounds out nicely to a couple of taster packs. With a large upper seating area available as well, it seems to be a popular place for large parties and date nights alike. They even offer valet parking on the weekends (again, this is not your typical brewery!).

STOP FOUR: Brassneck Brewery

Next, it was onwards and upwards (literally), from the flats of False Creek to the slopes of Mount Pleasant to pay a visit to Brassneck Brewery. Brassneck opened its doors to the thirsty masses in fall 2013, and they’ve been selling beer (almost) faster than they can make it ever since. Once you try their beer, this makes complete sense – ’cause it’s good. Real good. And the cozy, West Coast-inspired space makes it one of my favourite places in the city to grab a pint.

A warm welcome at Brassneck Brewery on Main Street. Photo: Jon Mandell

A trifecta of beer paddles at Brassneck Brewery. Photo: Jon Mandell

We each grabbed a taster paddle, and between us were able to try all of the beers on offer (which is generally between 8-10, depending on availability). I’m a big fan of their sessionable stout, as well as the Passive Aggressive single-hopped pale ale. If all that beer drinking has made you hungry, they’ve got quite the selection local pepperoni on offer, and there’s usually a local food cart parked outside. Tip: come early if you want to snag a seat in the tasting room – Brassneck is popular and fills up quickly. Luckily, if it’s full, you can always pick up a growler (offered in three different sizes: 16 oz “purse pops”, 1 litre and 1.9 litres) and take your brew to go.

Locally made pepperoni at Brassneck Brewery. Photo: Jon Mandell

A gaggle of growlers at Brassneck Brewing in Vancouver. Photo: Jon Mandell

STOP FIVE: Main Street Brewing

Tucked in just a block east of Main Street on 7th Avenue is the aptly named Main Street Brewing. Although the brewery itself opened in 2014, they’ve been contract brewing their pilsner for years out of Russell Brewing in Surrey, so they launched with a solid base of brand recognition. Not that they probably needed it; the rest of their beer lineup is excellent (try the session – AKA low-ABV – IPA), and the space itself is very cool – it’s another great example of a restored heritage building. In keeping with the rest of the day, we ordered some tasters and got to sipping.

Main Street Brewing

STOP SIX: 33 Acres

As the sun began to dip below the horizon, we moved on to our final destination, just several blocks south and west of Brassneck. Another relatively new addition to the Vancouver craft beer scene, 33 Acres Brewing Company opened just this summer and is probably my favourite tasting room in terms of aesthetics (clean, simple and bright – with plants at every table). You can usually find two of their beers on offer for tasting (often one of their two standard brews and a seasonal), and you can fill up growlers to go as well. The more stalwart among our party sipped from the brand new and fantastically large 24-ounce glasses, while the rest of us stuck with 12-ouncers.

And with that, we were spent. You can see a Google Map of our route here (it, of course, doesn’t need to be done in one go, or in this order. And please don’t drive! At 2 kilometres – 1.2 miles – it’s easily walkable). More Vancouver beer crawl posts to come – stay tuned!

Honourable mention/other options:

The Whip: Mere steps around the corner from Brassneck on East 6th Ave, you’ll find longtime Mount Pleasant fixture The Whip Restaurant and Gallery. Always a craft beer-centric bar, they offer a great BC-focused beer list (including one of my personal favourites, Driftwood Brewing‘s Fat Tug IPA) and tap a cask from a local brewery every Sunday afternoon. They also make the best Caesars in the ‘hood, in my humble opinion (protip: get whiskey instead of vodka, and ask them to add just a touch of stout beer. You can thank me later).

Friendly locals at the Whip Restaurant in East Van. Photo: Jon Mandell

The Cascade Room: If you continue your journey southwards up Main from the breweries, you’ll find yourself crossing Broadway and right on the doorstep of the Cascade Room. The Cascade Room has a solid local craft beer list, including two rotating guest taps and often, a craft cask. It’s also a great spot for a cocktail, and if you love pickled things (like I do), they have a pretty sweet little jar of pickled veggies that pairs nicely with a pint.

Portland Craft: About 10 blocks south of The Cascade Room on Main Street you’ll find Portland Craft. Although the focus here is mostly on beers from Oregon, California and Washington, there are several BC beers on tap as well, and a good food menu (including the “Put a Bird On It” chicken & waffles, a shout out to this sketch from the TV show Portlandia). The atmosphere is laid back, and the long communal tables and cozy booths are usually full of locals.