Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!

Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

its the design of the knuckle... theres a dust seal that the axle slides up into. The 350z axle is just too big (diameter wise) Either have to machine the axle or the knuckle... either or, not worth trying or making work.
Also my stock calipers will not bolt back onto the jdm sti knuckle.. unlike i was told by the seller.. told me they would swap with no issues. not the case... so it would have to be a ton of work and machine time, hub redrilled for correct lug pattern, caliper bracket modified or changed, then the ebrakes, depending on which caliper bracket i went with. then still have to machine the hubs so they would fit. Yea i'll just save the headache and do it the right way the first time.

So what will you do/use in this situation? Go with a GM setup and cut it to size so to speak?

So what will you do/use in this situation? Go with a GM setup and cut it to size so to speak?

Just put my stock knuckles back on, buy the drive shaft shop axles with there upgraded hubs. They will make the axles work for my new rear diff. there hubs and axles are good to 1200 hp. So bolt in and go, sets me back 2k though.

Every morning, at work, first thing I do is check on this thread. I get little upset when I don't see an update. You sir are unbelievable. You do stuff I dream of.

P.S. I've been stalking this thread since day one. Can't wait to see it finished.

End of the month is bill time for me. so no big parts purchases. I've been doing some little stuff. nothing worth posting really. I went caving the past weekend and been putting off fixing my g/f jeep for 2 months... it has a bad cylinder head on it, i'll finish it up this week and get it back going. then i'll try and knock some more out on the wrx. I'll get some pics up soon.

Thanks, still a newbie at tig..still learning... trust me when i started... ha it was horrible.

All of us here are admiring your welds as well.

I like the idea of the two passes for welding to the cast. The technique that some other people use has been to torch the cast until it's glowing red and then to weld - both, in theory do the same thing, but the two passes sounds like it's potentially more effective. Looking at your welds and the apparent penetration you were able to achieve, the two-pass method may be far superior.

I like the idea of the two passes for welding to the cast. The technique that some other people use has been to torch the cast until it's glowing red and then to weld - both, in theory do the same thing, but the two passes sounds like it's potentially more effective. Looking at your welds and the apparent penetration you were able to achieve, the two-pass method may be far superior.

Keep up the outstanding and uncompromising work.

Thanks for the compliments!

If i was mig welding cast... then yea, I would have to heat it.
Doing a fusion pass ( no filler rod) it gets the heat in the cast and deep penetration, its glowing solid red, and also gets the impurities out. Then the filler pass is just like welding any other steel, main thing is to keep the heat in the part (slow cooling) after the weld.

If i was mig welding cast... then yea, I would have to heat it.
Doing a fusion pass ( no filler rod) it gets the heat in the cast and deep penetration, its glowing solid red, and also gets the impurities out. Then the filler pass is just like welding any other steel, main thing is to keep the heat in the part (slow cooling) after the weld.

I've always just dunked the whole thing into a HUGE vat of sand and let it cool down from there. Honestly never thought of using the welding blanket, but it absolutely makes sense and might actually be a bit cleaner in the shop. haha

Amazing build, should post this up on norotors! This thing is right up there with 65imp's build.

I've always just dunked the whole thing into a HUGE vat of sand and let it cool down from there. Honestly never thought of using the welding blanket, but it absolutely makes sense and might actually be a bit cleaner in the shop. haha

Amazing build, should post this up on norotors! This thing is right up there with 65imp's build.

Yea sorry for no updates... just getting to the point its starting to frustrate me. the axle and hub setup didn't work. Now talking with DSS and seems like they can't give me any info on there own products... Never would of thought it would be so hard to get some axles made. But im going to the bank at the end of the week and take 5k personal loan to finish buying parts (setting 2500 aside just for axles and driveshaft). hoping 2500 will buy the rest . but it will be cutting it close.

As for updates, just been cleaning the engine bay up, shaved a few holes and modified the firewall a little for the clutch master cylinder, Gonna try and get the bay primed and painted soon. Just had to put the car off for a little while... just aggravated with the simple stuff...like the axles.

Yea sorry for no updates... just getting to the point its starting to frustrate me. the axle and hub setup didn't work. Now talking with DSS and seems like they can't give me any info on there own products... Never would of thought it would be so hard to get some axles made. But im going to the bank at the end of the week and take 5k personal loan to finish buying parts (setting 2500 aside just for axles and driveshaft). hoping 2500 will buy the rest . but it will be cutting it close.

As for updates, just been cleaning the engine bay up, shaved a few holes and modified the firewall a little for the clutch master cylinder, Gonna try and get the bay primed and painted soon. Just had to put the car off for a little while... just aggravated with the simple stuff...like the axles.

But I don't remember if i mentioned I notched the frame rail on the passenger side for clearance for a 4" downpipe. After doing a few test holes with a drill bit i found the places i wanted to cut, there is inner structure inside the rail, so i cut a piece out inside of it... the added 3/16" plates inside the rail and plated the whole piece that was removed with 3/16" plate. The piece that was removed was 18 gauge sheetmetal. 2 layers. The new piece will be as strong or if not stronger than before. I had pics of everything cut out and the whole process, I just have to find my memory card and upload them. The few pics i have are after all the welds have been grinded smooth a then layer of body filler applied. Also notched the fire wall for the clutch master cylinder reservoir lid to have more clearance, and shaved a few holes, just gotta clean the rest of the bay and scuff it , then primer will be applied.