Onsen Sushi

597 Montauk Hwy. Oakdale, NY 631-567-1688

Onsen Sushi is a Japanese sushi restaurant located at 597 Montauk Highway in Oakdale. (May 6, 2011) (Credit: Heather Walsh)

Sushi chef Jason Chen is a whiz with raw fish. Everything coming out of his sushi bar is flappingly fresh and put together with know-how. If it's available, try the wild king salmon in a roll with avocado. Or a live scallop, cut into circles and fanned out across the top of its shell. Or the amazing 2010 roll, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, fluke and crab rolled up in seaweed soybean wrap with fried...

Sushi chef Jason Chen is a whiz with raw fish. Everything coming out of his sushi bar is flappingly fresh and put together with know-how. If it's available, try the wild king salmon in a roll with avocado. Or a live scallop, cut into circles and fanned out across the top of its shell. Or the amazing 2010 roll, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, fluke and crab rolled up in seaweed soybean wrap with fried onion.

Jason Chen has a way with raw fish. With people, too. The exuberant chef-owner of the new Onsen remembers virtually every customer by name, chatting while he cuts up toro or yellowtail. He brings to Oakdale's table a caliber of Japanese cuisine ordinarily found at hi-glam, high-ticket spots.

ON

The specials board lists wild salmon, which I'm able to have in a salmon avocado roll. It's lovely. A marine-sweet live scallop is cut into circles, fanned out across the top of its shell. Uni (sea urchin) is unctuous and fine, beautifully presented outside its spiny enclosure.

What a nice surprise: both the salmon and shrimp teriyaki in a bento box are cooked to moist doneness. Also included: miso soup, salad, rice, a California roll, shumai (steamed shrimp dumplings) and fresh fruit.

My spoon repeatedly finds its way into a pal's nabe yaki udon, its deeply flavorsome broth loaded with chicken, vegetables and fat al dente noodles, topped with an egg, served with crisp shrimp tempura plated separately. No sogginess here.

OFF

Although we have reservations, our party waits half an hour to get seated and then another 15 minutes for our order to be taken.

About dessert: Why would anyone want to fry ice cream?

BOTTOM LINE

Although you may have to wait, the payoff comes at the end of your chopsticks.