Carole Nash

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Engine Mounts

Sort this out whilst the engine is out of the car and before reassembly of engine.

You need to use the Mk1 GTI mounts 1600 or 1800 (the same). I assume that these are also the same on the all large block mk1s including the carbed 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 non-GTI engines. Check though!

Assuming O2O gearbox being used, all four MK1 engine/gearbox mounts are required:

LHS of engine block (Cambelt end) remove rear mk2 mount and then bolt on mk1 item you need to remove the cam belt covers to bolt it on.

‘Rear’ of gearbox (Near Driveshaft flanges), remove the cast mount that is held on with three bolts (if you still have it on) and the big thin metal plate mount that goes to the top of the box. Now from underneath the mk1 item uses three bolts but goes on the other side of the diff casing.

RHS of gearbox, Mk1 Mount bolts to top of Gearbox.

Front of Gearbox/Block: Mk1 Mount bolts onto same bolts as Starter motor.This can be put on once engine in.

It may be worth up-rating/renewing engine mount rubbers whilst the engine is out of the car. The Front and Rear mounts are simple to change when the engine is installed if you change your mind, but adding side inserts could take longer.

Side Mounts: Worth renewing the standard mounts. The uprated poly ‘side mounts’ are generally just inserts that fit into the sides of the standard mounts.

Rear Mount: Poly mount is a good idea as it reduces engine movement, and subsequent strain on the exhaust manifold, especially if you have a 4 branch exhaust without a flexi joint. This is recommended by many, BUT be aware it will increase vibration in car significantly. I believe diesel mk1 items are a compromise (??)

Front Mount: Not sure on the effectiveness of a Poly front mount. It acts more of a engine ‘steady anyway. Only a 5 minute job with the engine in the car anyway, so easy to change at a later date. I have changed to Poly front mount since doing the conversion and didn’t notice any difference.