The Spanish may have conquered it, the Somozas may have ruled it but its forty volcanoes continue to dominate it. Nicaragua is a marvelous Central American amalgam of natural wonders, colonial splendors and political survival.

Skipping Managua entirely, we made a beeline for the colonial city of Leon. Catching the last few days of its Semana Santa (Holy Week) festivities, we often found ourselves ambushed by one of Leon's many neighborhood religious processions. But the highlight was watching the day-long creation of the Good Friday sawdust "carpets" (alfombras). Thoroughly capitvating. Heady political murals and dozens of colonial churches added to the conversation in this intellectually-charged, university town.

Granada, our next stop, is Nicaragua’s other, more restored colonial city. Yes, it is more "gringoized" than Leon but it is a beautiful, comfortable and convenient base for exploring nearby attractions. For example, from Granada, with Lake Nicaragua lapping at its shores, Isla Ometepe, the lake’s mythic twin volcano island, is an easy and essential excursion.

But the no trip would be complete without checking out conditions at Volcan Masaya. A night time tour is the most dramatic. Just remain calm and “duck and cover” under a nearby car if the volcano decides to spew a few rocks in your direction. Remember, you were warned.

Date(s): April 2009. Album by David Kohl. Photos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg. 1 - 80 of 80 Total. 1543 Visits.

Nicaragua Map

GranadaGranada – ostensibly Nicaragua’s most picturesque city – sits of the shores of Lake Nicaragua(also known as Lago Colcibolca– “Sweet Lake”).

La Merced facadeThe Iglesia La Merced was built in 1781 but only the facade is original. Like most of the other buildings in Granda, it was destroyed in 1863 and then later rebuilt.

Cathedral (viewed from La Merced)Granada, founded in 1524 – but then destroyed (courtesy of American renegade William Walker) and rebuilt – the city serves as the tourist hub for the surrounding region.

Mombacho ViewLooming just south of Granada is Volcan Mombacho. Mombacho contains a cloud forest reserve with two world-class “zip lines” that whir tourists through its jungle-carpeted hillside.

Granada waterfrontA view of the malecon –waterfront – of Granada along Lake Nicaragua. Apopular spot of Sunday outings and boat tripsalong the lake.

Monkey on Las IsletasLas Isletas are a collection of 300 tiny islands conveniently grouped close to the Granada shoreline.

Heron on Las IsletasSome of the islands are privately owned – adorned with elaborate mansions. Others, are public.

Las Isletas weaver bird nestsThe islands were created when a massive explosion of Volcan Mombacho spewed these balsalt isletas into the lake.

Granada CathedralThe Parque Colon is the heart of Granada. The plazais flanked on one side by the brilliantly painted Cathedral.The Cathedral was burntdown in 1857 but thenrebuilt in 1915.

CarriagesHorse-drawn carriages lingeraround the Parque Colon. Tourists hire them for a leisurely ride around the city. Front view of the Hotel Plaza Colon - the most desirable place to stay in the city.

Carriage Close-UpHorses with silly ribbons.

San Francisco MuseumThe museum of the Iglesia de San Francisco contains several pre-Columbian sculptures dating from AD 800-1200. They were taken from the Zapatera Island in Lake Nicaragua.

Laguna de ApoyoLaguna de Apoyo is a 918-foot deep crater lake – the deepest geological point in Central America. This ancient volcano last erupted 20,000 years ago. The water’s sulphur content makes it a soothing skin tonic as well as an effective mosquito repellent.

Laguna de ApoyoView of Laguna de Apoyo from the Catarina mirador.

San Simian at Laguna de ApoyoSan Simian is a small bungalow-style hotel on the shores of the Lagunade Apoyo.

San SimianAll the rooms have mosquito netting – no ac.One bungalow has anoutdoor bathtub.

Good Friday ProcessionDuring Semana Santa (Holy Week), there are numerous processions throughout the city of Leon. Stations of the Cross processions take place every Friday during Semana Santa. The parishioners march through the streets stopping fourteen times - for the fourteen Stations of the Cross (the fourteen stops made by Jesus on his way to Calvary).

Semana Santa ProcessionOn Easter Sunday, local churches sponsor a “reunion” procession. From one church, a procession starts carrying a statue of Jesus; from another church a group heads out with a status of Mary. Both processions meet – thus symbolizing the reuniting of Mary and Jesus after his resurrection – and then return to their respective churches.

The JudeaThe Judea – a theatrical show portraying the life of Jesus – is another Semana Santa tradition.

The JudeaHere, on Good Friday morning on a street corner in the Subtiava neighborhood, actors dramatize a scene from the trial of Christ.

The JudeaThe actors are church memberswho often play the same role year after year.

The JudeaActors dress in period costumes and try to accurately recreate the last days of Christ’s life.

The Street of CarpetsMore than a century ago, in the indigenous Subtiava suburb of Leon, a family created a colorful religious image of sawdust and other materials on the street in front of their home. That street was traditionally crossed by the Service of Darkness Procession every Good Friday.

Street of CarpetsOther neighbors began to imitate this family’s creation: more and more carpets (alfombras) began to fill the street. This tradition became so well know that the Subtiava street is now known as “Carpet Street” (La Calle de las Alfombras).

Street of CarpetsThe process begins early Good Friday morning. Carpet streets are closed to all vehicular traffic for the day. The “carpets” begin with a handmade, temporary wooden frame (varying in size) filled with plain sawdust and then moistened. The sawdust is then smoothed down – as above – with a large, flat piece of wood.

Street of CarpetsUnlike the more famous “carpets” of Antigua, Guatemala, these carpets use no molds. They are created freehand. Watch a creation in progress.

Street of CarpetsBags of pre-colored sawdust are used to make the carpets. The sawdust is sculpted by hand.

Street of CarpetsMost of the carpets depict religious figures or scenes.

Street of CarpetsWood planks are often used (as seen above) to reach areas in the center of the carpets.

Street of CarpetsThe process continues throughout the day on Good Friday. We visited the street three times that day – morning, afternoon and evening.

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Street of CarpetsCarpet creators often try to reproduce drawings or illustrations. This photo shows a woman referring to a book illustration for guidance.

Street of CarpetsCarpet "in process" in the afternoon.

Street of CarpetsFinished carpet viewed in the early evening.

Street of CarpetsEvening photo shows the completed "carpet". The wooden frame has been removed.

Carpet detailLater on Good Friday evening, the procession marches down the "Street of Carpets" - trampling and destroying all the carpets created during the day.

Carpet detailSometimes materials other than sawdust are incorporated into the carpet. Notice the wood shavings used as the curls in Christ's hair.

Home AltarMany people set up altars in front of their homes to be a stop for the procession. The priest selects the houses that will function as one of the “stations”.

CathedralLeon – Nicaragua’s second largest city –served as Nicaragua’s capital for over 200 years. Founded at its present site in 1610, it is known as Nicaragua’s intellectual and political center. It is the home to UNAN (Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Nicaragua), the country’s first university and the city’s lifeblood.

CathedralThe cathedral, which dominates the east side of the Parque Central, was begun in 1747 but was not completed until 1860. It is the largest church in Central America and a UNESCO world heritage site. A mural – representing the tumultuous history of Nicaragua – can be glimpsed to left

Lion in front of the CathedralTwo boys captured “riding” one on the two free-standing lion sculptures in front of the cathedral. The lion (leon) is the omnipresent symbol of the city of Leon.

Raspados for saleRaspados are a popular street sweet made with shaved ice and topped with thick fruit syrups or condensed milk.

Raspado toppingsA street vendor in the Parque Central tops the shaved ice with one of a variety of toppings.

Parque Central vendorAnother of the numerous street vendors in the park.

Iglesia de San FranciscoThe Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco was built in 1639 but had its exterior renovated in the 1980s to restore the damage done during the revolution.

Detail of the bellsIglesia de San Francisco

Revolution muralMural on a street in Leon depicting scenes from the revolution.

Detail of revolution mural

CIA muralThe mural portrays the CIA as a serpent, emerging from a volcano and uncoiling around a ballot box.

Arcade of the Hotel La Perla, LeonThe second floor covered arcade of the Hotel La Perla. It was once a private residence, a Chinese resturant and now a beautifully restored boutique hotel.

Iglesia La RecoleccionThe Iglesia La Recoleccion – a beautiful yellow-painted baroque church built in 1786 – as viewed from the covered arcade at the Hotel La Perla.

Iglesia La RecoleccionClose-up of the top of the church.

Entrance to the Museo de LeyendasThe Museo de Leyendas y Tradiciones is housed in a building that once served as a jail and torture center during the revolution. The black-and-white murals at the entrance to the building depict explicit torture scenes.

No Mas SomozasThis mosaic, in the courtyard outside the Mueso de Leyendasy Tradiciones, is entitled “No Mas Somozas” – “NoMore Somozas” - after the notorious multi-generataional dictatorial family of Nicaragaua.

Courtyard Mosaic

Los Hervideros de San JacintoLos Hervideros de San Jacinto are large mud puddles formed as the result of the water table leaking onto the magma vein of the nearby Volcan Telica (viewed in the background).

Bubbling mud puddleThe mud micro-craters can change in size and location after rainfall. The sulphuric gases released by these craters can quickly asphyxiate the casual visitor. Watch the mud bubble

Volcan TelicaView of a puff of smoke being emitted from nearby Volcan Telica.

Our GuideLocal boys and girls serve as guides to safely navigate you through the warren of bubbling hot mud pits.

David with "guide"

OmetepeIsla de Ometepe is the largest in Lake Nicaragua – the 10th largest freshwater lake in the world. Access is via a one-hour boat ride from San Jorge to the Isla’s port of Moyagalpa.

Chaco Verde InnThe island is dominated by two volcanoes – Volcan Concepcion and Volcan Maderas. Volcan Concepcion(the highest at 5,280 feet) can be seen in the background behind our small hotel- Chaco Verde Inn.

Volcan ConcepcionThe islands name – Ometepe – is from the Nahuatl words for two (ome) and peaks(tepetl).

Volcan ConcepcionThe climb to the top of Volcan Concepcion is a 10-12 hour hike up loose volcanic stone.

Volcan ConcepcionThe volcano last threw out rocks and fire in 1957.

Volcan Concepcion close-up

Chaco Verde bird

Beach at Chaco VerdeSunset view

Sunset at Chaco Verde

Sunset at Chaco VerdeThat night at the Chaco Verde Inn we were treated to some local post-drinking tabletop top dancing. Check out this video

MasayaAs outlined in the precautions above, visitors must park their cars facing away from the lip of the crater – to ensure a quick escape – and they must remember to take cover under their cars in case of a volcanic explosion.

MasayaVolcan Masaya National Park encompasses a massive caldera containing several craters. The three most notable are: Volcan Nindiri, which last erupted in 1670; Volcan San Fernando, which blew its top off in 1772; and the Santiago Crater (wedged between the two), formed in 1852.

MasayaThe Masaya complex is only one of two active volcanoes in the world where visitors can drive and park at the rim. Watch it smoke.

MasayaThe Santiago Crater continuesto emit a generous amount ofulphuric gases. It last burped up on explosion of rocks in 2000.

MasayaA short climb up the nearby hill from the parking lot rewards hikers with views of across the valley of the San Fernando Crater and Lake Masaya.

Cruz de BobadillaIn the early 1500s, Father Francisco Bobadilla placed a cross on a hilltop overlooking the crater. He believed the cross would exorcise the devil from the depths of the crater.

MasayaA short climb up the nearby hill from the parking lot rewards hikers with views of across the valley of the San Fernando Crater and Lake Masaya.

MasayaAt night, visitors have the best chance of seeing the red glow of lava in the depths of the steamy Santiago Crater.