But since this city isn't yet dotted with places to satisfy a craving for tacos de bistek, huaraches or tacos al pastor, it's a treat to find another option for these antojitos.

For those who have lived in or traveled in the Distrito Federal (as Mexico City is called), just about everything at Que Taco! is instantly familiar: the plain interior, the playing of Mexican pop music and the large spit of meat in the background for shaving off slices into tacos al pastor.

The tacos here feature small tortillas, moistened in oil, softened on a hot flattop grill and topped with a small but good variety of meats. Small molcajete-shaped bowls hold diced onions and cilantro for sprinkling on top of the tacos. At first, a server moved a couple of bowls containing leftover condiments from another table to ours, but a couple of people in our group insisted on fresh bowls.

In any event, the tacos we tried included moist and flavorful meat, made fresh and served quickly.

Beefy and juicy, the diced ribs, or costillas, brought back some happy Mexico memories. I ordered the meat on a huarache, the sandal-shaped masa cake. The meat is topped with shredded lettuce, crema and queso fresco.

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The tacos de bistek con queso are bits of juicy sirloin with crisp edges from the flattop sear. Our group felt like piling on the goodness, so this order included melted cheese. The meat had more than enough flavor and moistness so the cheese was not necessary, but there's nothing wrong with a little taco excess.

The tacos al pastor were also good, but had a bit too much clove for my taste.

Still, there aren't many places around town that specialize in Mexican antojitos of tacos, sopes, huaraches and quesadillas, so it's a perfect fit for the area affectionately known as Sonterrey.

More Information

Que Taco!

18360 Blanco Road, Suite 116, just outside Loop 1604, 210-384-2525

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily

Price range: From $1.99 each for a quesadilla or flauta to $10.99 for queso fundido with meat or alambre.