Some of the best Italian-inspired, locally-sourced cooking, in a genteel house

If you’re going to haul your cookies to the Eastside for one meal, you should come here. The menu is a mix of the pride of the Northwest (Oregon lamb, Washington-raised rabbit, and mussels from British Columbia) and Italy (lardo, Umbrian lentils, Barbera risotto). This might all come together like so: local squab with miner’s lettuce, veal sweetbreads, and Moscato foie gras pan sauce. Pastas are homemade, as are gelati in unusual flavors like fennel seed and honeycomb.

Looking for Ethiopian food in Seattle? Hail a cab, and chances are the driver can direct you to his favorite place for food from his homeland. And for most, Meskel is the choice.

The restaurant has a large terrace that’s abandoned every drive-by, but the interior has some warmth from native art. And while the staff seems initially shy, if you express some interest in the food, they’ll warm up quickly.