Neapolitan Flava in the SGV

The newly opened Bollini’s may be the best place in LA for true Neapolitan pizza, says Jeryy.

“It’s not a restaurant, not a date spot, it would even be an insult to formica. In the hallowed tradition of the East Coast, it’s a pizzeria. To me it’s a cathedral.”

Let’s get one thing clear: Neapolitan pizza is not New York pizza, and it certainly ain’t no California Pizza Kitchen. With a cracker-thin crust and a scattering of toppings, it’s more of a snack than a meal.

Bollini’s uses a wood-fired oven to turn out a chewy, smoky, splendidly crispy crust. As for the toppings, there are two extremes: The purist white pizza is bursting with flavor, while JeetJet prefers the regular cheese.

There are also specialty pizzas, including a steak pizza with homemade horseradish sauce. Did you cringe over the horseradish sauce? So did Jeryy, but it was love at first bite, he says. The horseradish sauce has a touch of Parmesan and adds a bit of sharpness, but nothing jarring. Fontina cheese actually works better than mozzarella, and the fennel sausage is specially made for the restaurant at a place in Vernon. JeetJet finds the sausage too much like hot dog, though.

Chef-owner Christiano Bollini is a local boy who apprenticed with Celestino Drago and did time in Italy (learning about regional cuisines, that is). Make sure to try his wild mushroom fettuccine with chicken, laced with truffle oil and garlic. It may be the best $10 entrée in the city. Salads are really good too, and portions generous.

A 12-inch pie is $8, and toppings are 50 cents—no, that’s not a typo. As noted, though, the pies are not all that filling. Other dishes run about $10.

Over the next few weeks, the restaurant is having tasting nights to try out specials to add to the menu.