IT'S NOT ABOUT SPENDING WADS OF CASH; IT'S ABOUT FINDING YOUR TRIBEThe world of style is balkanized now. And there are some types we find particularly inspiring. We're talking about modern-day beatniks, dressed-to-the-hilt dandies, streetwear kings, and a phylum we like to call “guys who really, really wish they were from Paris.” We’ll identify the tribes, get all armchair-sociological on their habits and mores, and take you to their leaders.

We also know you live in the real world and probably don't want to come to work dressed like a Victorian peacock with a monocle." />
Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images

Speaking of the real world, you know what every man in it surely needs? Pants. Specifically, the kind of pants that used to be called trousers. They'll give you a sharp, retro Sinatra-in-Vegas look. Plus, in summer, jeans can sometimes align you with the Swampass Tribe.From left: Giorgio Armani, $895. Todd Snyder, $450. Maison Kitsuné, $349." />
Photograph by David Rinella

(WE'RE MAN ENOUGH TO SAY IT) HARRY STYLES ROCKSYes, he's in the boy band One Direction. No, we're not drunk. Here, GQ creative director Jim Moore explains:“The mark of true personal style is finding a few things that work for you and sticking to them. We see Harry in the same jeans, Beatle boots, and Saint Laurent jacket again and again. He's the most confident dresser out there right now.”" />
Photo: (from left) Splash News; North Woods/Splash News; 247 Papstv/Splash News/Corbis; Splash News

DISCOVER THE UN-DOUCHEY LOGOIn the aughts, garish logos became synonymous with fashion victims and brand whoring. So things went minimal for a while. But now upstart streetwear brands with '90s nostalgia (like Hood By Air and #BEENTRILL#) are bringing logos back as wearable Bat Signals of cool. Meanwhile, luxury houses like Givenchy and Balmain are using patches and insignias. (That's not a Boy Scout uniform with merit badges—it's a piece of French fashion by Louis Vuitton.) Whether you go with a Metallica tee (like Ryan Gosling) or an American flag, make sure whatever's emblazoned across your chest means something to you. If it ain't personal, it's posing." />
Photo: (clockwise from left) Noam Galai/WireImage/Getty Images; Marcus Tondo/Indigitalimages.com; X17; Elder Ordonez/INF; GVK-Bauer-Griffin/GC Images/Getty Images; Paul Drinkwater/NBC/NBCU Photobank via Getty Images; Steve Mack/FilmMagic/Getty Images

MOVE YOUR STYLE CAPITAL A LITTLE TO THE NORTHMimicking the style moves of an Italian businessman is, like, so 2013. Right now, French minimalism is where it's at. That means French-blue suits, unfussy labels for creative types like Ami and A.P.C., and retro striped shirts like Picasso used to wear—especially when the stripes are all noir.

OTHER MEMBERS OF THIS PREPPY TRIBE: Actor and rapper Donald Glover, actor and comedian Aziz Ansari, Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg

Scott on Americana“I like clothes that are simple and not too showy. I wear a lot of stuff from my favorite label, Band of Outsiders: button-up shirts, a leather jacket, khakis. And J.Crew will never be overrated. I'm a slim guy with the body of a 12-year-old. So their slim cuts fit me.”

The Ex-Nerds Always Win“Duckie in Pretty in Pink first made me aware of style. I was an unpopular, chubby kid, so I wanted to build an identity around that character to get noticed. I always wore an oversize blazer with a shirt buttoned all the way to the top and a bolo tie. Lots of bolo ties.”

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2014's Answer to Lou ReedDevonté HynesEnigmatic. Genre-bending. The epitome of the downtown N.Y.C. scene—and not afraid of women's clothes.

Antonoff on Inspiration from Unlikely Places“I draw inspiration from '90s bullies and gay women. I feel like the bully look—high-waisted pants, tight shirt with rolled-up sleeves—evolved from what '50s and '60s boxers used to look like. My style is somewhere between that and Tank Girl. A shitty, intimidating look on someone who has such a nice Jewish face works well for me.”

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Photograph by Scott Trindle

The Man Behind the Most Desired Heans in the WorldHiroki NakamuraWant a natural-dyed indigo painter's jacket? Get in line behind Kanye West.

TRIBAL HABITAT: Tokyo, SoCal thrift shops, any place that smells of burning sage

OTHER MEMBERS OF THIS OBSESSIVE TRIBE: Visvim junkies like Eric Clapton, John Mayer

Hiroki Saying the Kind of Shit Only He Can Get Away with Saying“An important element of having a great look is being loved and giving love. If you have love on the inside, it will show outside. Getting dressed is just one aspect of taking care of yourself.”

And on the Solution-Based Wardrobe“Sometimes style is about just letting things happen. I started wearing a bandanna as a belt so I wouldn't get stopped at TSA when I fly. I was like, ‘Hey, I kind of like the way this looks.’ ”

FASHION HAS BECOME A GAME OF P.W.Y.W. (THAT IS PAY WHAT YOU WANT)Part of the glory of being men is that our uniforms are consistent: jeans, suits, polos, a sweatshirt you can wear to work. And now labels across the price spectrum have caught on, realizing we all want the same thing. So if you can't afford Saint Laurent, get your gear at Gap.

From left: Gap, $80. A slim fit and cool, washed-out colors. John Elliott + Co, $160. An even slimmer fit, with side zippers. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, $825. Kinda genius (and punk) sleeve zippers. But still just a sweatshirt." />
Photographs by David Rinella

That goes for tuxedos, too. So whether you're the Tom Ford type or a head-to-toe Uniqlo man, don't wait for an invitation to the Met Ball to get all tuxed out. If Gerard Butler and Alexa Chung can have cake, you can eat it, too." />
Photo: (from left) Sebastian Kim GQ, January 2013; Pablo Frisk

YOUR TIE RACK NEEDS TO LIGHTEN UP A LITTLERight about now, any good suiting store is piled high with lightweight cotton and linen ties that will sync up with your summer suits and add a much needed offbeat note to your look. Plus, they come in sweet colors, like someone took an eraser to your normal pink tie.

YO, SPORTSCASTER ERIN ANDREWS! WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE RISE OF MALE MAKEUP?" />
Photo: Michael Buckner/Getty Images for GQ

REMEMBER: YOU ARE NOT A BLACKSMITHMust every men's store have salvaged-wood tables, rusty anchors, and names like F. R. Woolery Rail & Supply? Enough! To prove you don't have to shop Ye Olde, we present three stores that are more like modern high-design experiences. Starting with the New Holy Temples of Menswear:" />
Photo: Brand X Pictures/Getty Images

TOTOKAELO (Seattle)You can excuse us if we hear “Pacific Northwest” and think: log-cabin-inspired, taxidermy-inflected haberdashery. Totokaelo (pronounced toh-toh-kye-oh) is not that. It's a midcentury-modern space (and by “midcentury” we mean 2054) where the men's floor feels like Morpheus's lair in The Matrix…but with indigo A.P.C. sweaters. There are also art objects, stacks of books, and designy furniture—in case you want to make your living room into the Totokaelo of your town. Also: If you're low on SkyMiles, the website is fully stocked." />
Photo: Courtesy of Charles Schuck

JUST ONE EYE (Los Angeles)Got sixty minutes to burn in L.A.? Go to JOE—but think of it as a free architecture tour (it's Howard Hughes's old HQ) or as a free art museum (for the Murakamis and Hirsts). Just don't think of it as an H&M store (unless you're in Pharrell's tax bracket—he's a believer)." />
Photo: Courtesy of Charles Schuck

DOVER STREET MARKET (N.Y.C.)If the style world made a no-expenses-spared time capsule of 2014, this would be it. A visit to the store will quickly distill for you the range of wearable wonders twenty-first-century humankind has yielded so far, including a new suit in a shade of blue not found in the ocean and the Nikes we showed you in No. 45. Even the stuff you'd probably never wear is impossible not to pick up, if only to test its weight—or gawk at the price tag. And all of it is stashed inside seven stories (seven!) designed to maximize the drama (starting with the spiral staircases and many strange sculptures). It is a world to behold. Spend ten minutes here or spend eight hours—either way you won't feel left out in a conversation about clothes for the rest of the year. (Though we also recommend a subscription to GQ.)" />
Photo: (clockwise from top left) Courtesy of Ari Marcopoulos; Courtesy of Dover Street Market New York (3)

THE BRIEFCASE ISN'T DEAD; IT JUST LOOSENED UP A LITTLEAt last, an era when a man can take pride in the design of his bag as readily as that of his car or his sneakers. From work briefs to gym totes to weekenders—to carryalls that can be all three—these are the season's seventeen best.

YOUR WATCH ISN'T A STATUS SYMBOL ANYMORE—IT'S A STYLE SYMBOL.The days when every man invested in the same slab of gold for his wrist are kaput. Go for nylon, stainless steel, or all Fuck-Yeah-America. (Shinolas are made in Detroit.) It's about taste, not tradition." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Kris Jensen at Mark Edwards Inc.

THE WORLD'S GONE BULLISH ON 'STOCKSFor eons Birkenstocks were like mock turtlenecks for your feet, practical, but too dorky to own—until now. In 2014, you’re as likely to see them at a fancy pants gallery-opening as you are at Burning Man. Here’s a short history." />
Illustrations by Zohar Lazar

FASHION AND STREETWEAR MADE A BABYWhen we heard Givenchy’s Ricardo Tischi and Nike were collaborating, we imagined gold-embossed sneakers with built-in projectors that make holograms of Jay Z and Kanye appear. Man, were we wrong. What they actually made is an Air Force 1 you can wear on the daily, if you can get a pair." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

YOUR NEXT SUIT (AND SHIRT AND POCKET SQUARE) SHOULD BE LINENThis featherweight summer fabric has been revived to give you rumpled, retro appeal. Wear it unsparingly." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

THE COOLEST SHOPPING STREET IN AMERICAFrom inside the evil heart of SoHo, on Broadway—amid the chaos of pashmina pushers and fashion victims—just hang a left onto Crosby Street. Not fifty yards from a man about to have an aneurism trying to locate the Apple Store, you will find the most concentrated new dose of quality menswear design in America. And because this street is more cobblestone alley than thoroughfare, these stores have stayed miraculously unsucky." />
Illustration by Simone Massoni

CARHARTT WORK IN PROGRESSYes, that Carhartt. This location is more button-down-collar than blue-collar—think super-tapered canvas pants and polo shirts." />
Photo: Courtesy of Carhartt WIP/carhartt-wip.com

MIN NEW YORKA magic shop of vials, ointments, and smell-goods, so that when people come close to you…they’ll want to come closer." />
Photo: Courtesy of MiN New York

HAMPTON CHUTNEY CO.Head to Hampton Chutney Co. for a dosa (a sandwich wrap, but from India) and be sure to order the number nine. " />

CARSON STREET CLOTHIERSAfter that, suit up with the menswear bloggers turned menswear retailers at Carson Street Clothiers, just be prepared for what you wear into the store to be scrutinized just as closely as what you take out of it." />
Photo: Christopher Fenimore/Courtesy of Carson Street Clothiers

ALL SAINTSFor a break in the boutique-ness stop by trusty staple All Saints for moody clothes to channel your inner Justin Theroux…Jennifer Aniston sold separately." />
Photo: Nadia Anderson/Courtesy of AllSaints New York

BLOOMINGDALE’SPop into Bloomingdale’s for a new leather duffle bag. Like All saints, it has a back door on Crosby, which we like to think of as VIP entrances." />

MIANSAIThe GQ-approved place for gold cuff bracelets and leather goods, is just down the street from Bloomingdale’s." />

SATURDAYS NYCHead here to pick up a surfboard, an oxford, or maybe just a coffee you can drink on the patio while watching models on lap-tops." />
Photo: Courtesy of Saturdays NYC

AETHERRegardless of whether you snowboard, Aether deserves a visit for its high-performance outerwear that is blessedly free of Mountain Dew Code Red logos." />
Photo: Courtesy of Aether NYC

BDDWThe furniture store with leather framed mirrors and a wooden coffee table with a built in turntable. After all, interior design is the new menswear." />
Photo: Courtesy of BDDW

OPENING CEREMONYHead into OC on Howard Street for some Japanese wears from the store that would be the hippest kid on any city block. If OC leaves you wondering, “how am I gonna pay rent this month?” Realize it would probably be a good thing to get the hell of Crosby Street." />
Photo: Courtesy of Opening Ceremony

MIGHT BE TIME TO GET THE DOUBLE DECKER SHOE RACKNo, you’re not going to wear those bright green Adidases (or a pair of tassle loafers) every day. And that’s exactly the point." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

IF YOU’RE STILL POSTING SELFIES ON INSTAGRAMStop." />
Photo: Courtesy of @jiandeleon

BECAUSE THE LIVING ROOM SHOT IS THE NEW SELFIEAt this point, a photo that shows how your cuffed pants make your Chelsea boots pop may no longer capture the hearts and “Likes” of those desperate for Internet attention. But mess with a trendy throw pillow—or better yet, a retro typewriter—and you’ll probably have more luck. Bonus: You’ll probably enjoy your home more." />
Photo: Courtesy of Michael Pangilinan (2)

FINALLY, THEY DESIGNED A PLANT FOR MEN!You know what else will improve your home? Succulents. We’re talking about aloe vera and cacti for your living room. They are manly (thanks to the thorns), minimal (Jean Prouvé would approve) and hard to kill (your thumb is green enough.) So, go ahead, Instagram it up, boys." />
Photo: (clockwise from top left) Dorling Kindersley/Getty Images; Courtesy of Dora Somosi; Fotosearch/Getty Images

RE-BOOT YOUR POWER SUITHave you seen Taken, Taken 2, Non-Stop? At 61, Liam Neeson’s reinvented himself as an action hero, proving it’s never too late for an overhaul. No matter what your age a new razor sharp mogul suit will make you look like the boss." />
Photograph by Paola Kudacki

STOP JACKING YOUR STYLE FROM MAD MEN AND TURN TO TOP GUNWant a look that commands respect? Wear something military-designed like the old MA-I flight jacket—it’s been re-enlisted and re-imagined as a stark-simple bomber with a patch pocket on the arm and spotted on the likes of Bradley Cooper and Kanye West." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

THE ONLY THING FRESHER THAN WHITE JEANS IS…DIRTY WHILE JEANS?When you wear white, dirt is inevitable. Now designers have expedited the process, pre-grimy-ing their jeans (a little) so they look lived-in all the right places. They also give those of us who have unintentionally grimy white jeans a sense of relief." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

TELL YOUR PANTS THE FLOOD HAS ENDEDTrends rise and fall, so have a look at where we stand with three right now. Bandannas and three-button jackets are back from the dead, while suit pants hemmed super short and woven friendship are in a state of rest, but xtra-hold hair gel and boot-cut jeans? Dead forever." />
Illustrations by Benjamin Bours

YOUR GLASSES SHOULD HIT THE SWEET SPOT BETWEEN ELTON JOHN AND JOHN LENNONSize is crucial when it comes to round glasses that make you look like you’ve read Kafka and the Kinks. Elton’s were too huge and Lennon’s were too tiny—just split the difference." />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Kris Jensen at Mark Edward Inc.

LIKE GOLD CHAINS FOR PEOPLE WHO EAT KALECan't picture yourself in an LL Cool J dookie rope? No worries. You can still deck out your neck with a beaded necklace. Hiroki wears several, but we suggest starting with one. Just be ready for people to ask where you got it. (It's okay to embellish.) Sample response: “Oh, this? It was a gift from a shaman I met camping in Joshua Tree.”" />
Photograph by David Rinella; Prop Stylist: Kris Jensen at Mark Edward Inc.

THERE'S ONE TRIBE YOU DON'T HAVE TO JOIN TO HAVE GQ STYLE: THE ONE PERCENTBecause low funds should never stop a man of high style, here's how to get a key piece worn by each of our cover subjects—for way less cash." />
Photographs by Paola Kudacki (Neeson Harington, and Williams); David Rinella (still lifes); Prop Stylist: Claire Tedaldi at Halley Resources

The GQ 100

March 31, 2014

Start Slideshow

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<p style="color:black;"><strong>IT&#39;S NOT ABOUT SPENDING WADS OF CASH; IT&#39;S ABOUT FINDING YOUR TRIBE</strong><br />The world of style is balkanized now. And there are some types we find particularly inspiring. We&#39;re talking about modern-day beatniks, dressed-to-the-hilt dandies, streetwear kings, and a phylum we like to call &ldquo;guys who really, really wish they were from Paris.&rdquo; We&rsquo;ll identify the tribes, get all armchair-sociological on their habits and mores, and take you to their leaders.</p>