GE Washer Clutch Question

Hello, I recently replaced the original motor on our WJSE4150B1WW GE washer with the new style motor/clutch assembly and wiring harness kit. It looks like the clutch on this new unit is pressed on or maybe even welded on at the factory.
I was wondering if this clutch on the new motor assembly still replaceable separately, like on the old style, or is it now just considered all one-piece when ordering repair parts?
Thanks

It's all one set now and praise be to the pot-bellied, bald-headed, buck-toothed Buddha! GE finally figured out that it's not worth the knuckle-busting fight to get the rusty clutch off the motor shaft. ==> http://www.repaircli...er=WJSE4150B1WW

I remember disassembling and reassembling the clutches on the old style washers, it was a pain in the neck, and I always got full of all the clutch dirt that may or may not have contained asbestos. It was like doing brake jobs on cars.

i dont even think that motor has a clutch anymore, i think its just a counterweight wear the clutch used to be, and that why you wire in the relay and capacitor. Just saw that they call it motor/clutch, will have to look more closely on the next one i do.

I think GE would have saved alot of money if they just used an idler pulley and a belt with the coating on it to let it slip rather than a clutch since the machine drains the water before going into spin anyway, but for some reason GE has always avoided using an idler pulley and the slipping drive belt.

Thanks for the info guys. Now that I've taken another look at it, it does appear to be just a solid flywheel/pulley instead of an actual clutch mechanism. I guess now, at least in theory, that's one less thing to have to worry about wearing out on it.

New to the forum but I can add a little knowledge to this topic. I can confirm that the new motor does not have a clutch, just a direct drive pulley. The relay for this new motor is a double pole and does two things. It selects the proper start winding (new motor has two run windings and two start windings) and when low speed is selected it redirects power back up to the control panel relay that determines direction of rotation (in the old motor, that was done via the motors internal switch).

That old motor by the way can be opened up for service of the internal switch. I was able to do that to repair a motor which would not go into low speed and would just kick on/off when attempting to do so. An apparent common problem as the contacts of the internal switch get dirty/pitted/arced with age.