Hapa Ramen: The latest pop-up to mature into brick-and-mortar

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The buttermilk fried Chicken at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The buttermilk fried Chicken at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The shaved Brussels Sprouts at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., are seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The shaved Brussels Sprouts at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., are seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Windows being washed before service at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Windows being washed before service at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The Ahi Tartare at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The Ahi Tartare at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Terrine of Foie Gras at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Terrine of Foie Gras at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The Hapa Tonkotsu Ramen at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The Hapa Tonkotsu Ramen at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The Chocolate Pudding at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The Chocolate Pudding at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The Shaking Beef at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The Shaking Beef at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The Market Ramen at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The Market Ramen at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano talks with servers at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano talks with servers at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The exterior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The exterior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano talks with customers at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano talks with customers at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano talks with servers before service at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano talks with servers before service at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

The interior of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Chef Richie Nakano of Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

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People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

People have dinner at Hapa in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 5th, 2015.

Photo: Special to the Chronicle

Hapa Ramen: The latest pop-up to mature into brick-and-mortar

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Pop-ups have generated some of the most interesting brick-and-mortar restaurants in the Bay Area, including Lazy Bear, Californios, Hillside Supper Club and the subject of this week’s review in The Chronicle — Hapa Ramen.

Richie Nakano has run a successful ramen stand in the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market for several years and at pop-ups where he perfected his recipe for Japanese noodle soup. He made a name for his unconventional combinations.

Last fall he opened a permanent location in the Mission, in what was formerly a 99 Cent Store. It has a chic interior, a full bar and some excellent starters, including fried chicken with bread and butter pickles and hot sauce in a steamed bun. In fact, what I noticed on three visits was that ramen — three are offered on any given night — was the weaker link. It was good on two occasions, but missing finesse on another.

I’m confident the rough patches will be fixed, but it illustrates how difficult it is to find the comfort zone and to be able to turn out a consistent product night after night.