What is All-in EV in PT3?

I heard that All-in EV is an rough indicator of how good you run. However I just don't understand how it is calculated. When there is an actual AI in a hand it makes sense. But when there is not, how the hell does PT3 calculate AI EV when it doesn't even know the opponent's hand?

Originally posted by yeahyoung0312
I heard that All-in EV is an rough indicator of how good you run.

Who ever told you this was misinformed. It only shows your EV from the point that you went all-in at.

To me its more of an indicator of how good or bad your all-in decisions are skewed by the size of the individual pots that those decisions apply to. So I guess its an indicator of how poorly you play as the pots get big?

This post has been edited 2 time(s), it was last edited by yeahyoung0312: 15.09.2010 03:52.

Originally posted by tokyoaces
To me its more of an indicator of how good or bad your all-in decisions are skewed by the size of the individual pots that those decisions apply to. So I guess its an indicator of how poorly you play as the pots get big?

I see. So when I go in AI as an underdog my AI-ev for that hand will be negative but if I make a suck-out then my showdown winning for that hand will be highly positive.

How about non-AI hands? Is it as Jan217 said:

Originally posted by Jan217
whenever no one went all in before the river your all in ev is just exactly what happened, ie. if you won 5$ your 'all in ev' is +5$ and if you fold your big blind your 'all in ev' is -1bb.

This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by nitaidean: 16.09.2010 12:05.

There's a shortcoming to the All-In EV in my opinion... say I go "almost" all-in on the turn, with just 5c left to bet, and I go in with 85% to win. And say he hits his backdoor flush on the river and sucks me out, and bets the additional 5c, which I naturally call. Now in this case, my All-In EV diff is zero. Meaning, because I wasn't technically "all-in", it doesn't count that I was sucked out.

I think it should be different: all hands that make it to showdown, the program should then go back in the hand, and on every street it calculates my equity and the opponent's equity, and in this way adjusts our winnings or loses for luck.

For instance, say I have AA and my opponent KK.

Preflop: I bet $1 and he call, so I'm now +$0.84c and he's +$0.84c, because thats our equity preflop.

Flop (7 9 2): I bet $1.50 and he calls, so now I get an additional +$1.30 and he gets -$1.30.

Turn (K): I bet$4.00, he reraises all in to $15.00 and I call. Now I'm +$0.6 or so (my only equity is hitting an A on the river) and he is +$14.40.

So here I get credit for the streets I was ahead, and lose the streets I was behind.

Originally posted by nitaidean
There's a shortcoming to the All-In EV in my opinion...

You suggestion would not make it any better. It would just be a different but equally flawed system.

The problem with all-in EV is that it completely ignores all of the decisions leading up to the point that both players decided to go all-in. The decision point is neither pre-flop nor at the point of the effective all-in.

However coming up with a real solution, that is checking the EV against the villain's likely range, is too hard because we don't have infinite computing power. So instead someone decided just to take the easy way out.

I'm convinced that the only reason they did this is because it sells more copies of tracking software.

However coming up with a real solution, that is checking the EV against the villain's likely range, is too hard because we don't have infinite computing power. So instead someone decided just to take the easy way out.

I'm convinced that the only reason they did this is because it sells more copies of tracking software.

Come on. You must have seen plenty of flawed stats going on the research/applied fields.

ALL IN EV is good indicator, it will show you how unlucky or Lucky are you. Or how good or bad player you are. IMO if you are running above EV then you must consider your strategy because you are most probably fish and soon you will be hit by variance and then you could lose all money you have, depends how much you want to gamble.

For example, i m playing SSS and its imposible to run above EV ALL IN, because you rarely need to sockout and most of the time if you lose you will be bad beat.

So yes this indicator is weird and it should be taken into consideration... As example above... Where i play only good hands and i dont need to sockout... and if i lose i m heavy bad beat which will move EV line ...

Originally posted by dadaas
ALL IN EV is good indicator, it will show you how unlucky or Lucky are you. Or how good or bad player you are. IMO if you are running above EV then you must consider your strategy because you are most probably fish and soon you will be hit by variance and then you could lose all money you have, depends how much you want to gamble.

IMO the biggest problem with All-in EV is that i can differ greatly over a small sample. Say you get it in with AA against preflop with effective stacks of 100bb. Your Equity here is 81-82% depending on suits. You win the hand and pick up the pott of 200bb. The EV-line shows a profit of 82bb, but your line for SD-winnings shows a 100bb profit.

Originally posted by Gu911
IMO the biggest problem with All-in EV is that i can differ greatly over a small sample. Say you get it in with AA against preflop with effective stacks of 100bb. Your Equity here is 81-82% depending on suits. You win the hand and pick up the pott of 200bb. The EV-line shows a profit of 82bb, but your line for SD-winnings shows a 100bb profit.

Actually, if you get all-in with 82% equity in a 200 bb pot, your luck-adjusted equity for the hand will be 64 bb = 82% of 200 bb - 100 bb. The 64 bb ignores whether you won or lost. This should be a better unbiased indicator of your skill advantage than the results of +100bb or -100bb.

Luck adjustment does not have to correct for all possible sources of luck. If you could filter out all of the luck you have on Fridays, leaving the luck from the other 6 days of the week, this would be an improvement. When you play cash games, the all-in luck adjustment helps you to get a more accurate estimate of your win rate even though it does not factor out coolers, whether you hit the flop, or other types of luck.

All-in luck adjustment is much more effective if you play in games where you often get all-in preflop or on the flop. This can occur if you play with a short stack yourself or against short stacks, or if you play tournaments, particularly super turbo SNGs where players start with 10 bb stacks. All-in luck accounts for about 73% of the variance in super turbos, so the adjusted results after 270 tournaments are about as reliable as the raw results after 1000 tournaments. In a big stack cash game, however, only 10-20% of the variance might be eliminated by using this luck adjustment.