STEPS TO GETTING BELAYED: 1. Find the right partner with the right tools. 2. Get tied down. 3. Make sure to use a locking biner the skrewing kind is the best. 4. Carefully spot check your partners rack 5. Make sure you use addequate protection 6. Make sure your eyes never leave your partner during those crux moments 7. Remember to continually shout words of encouragement. 8. ......

It would seem as though you’ve plenty of advise on how to get to the point where you may beLAYED, thing is now…do you know or perhaps even remember what you are in for, for when you do get to beLAYED???

First of all as you have already been warned make sure your rack is adequately suited for the crack at hand this is very important!!

Secondally does the crack at hand suit your preferred style as there are many cracks out there and no one crack is the same as another.
Fortunately I have had the opportunity of benLAYED (form above and below in fact) many times before. So fortunately for you I can give you some advise and share some of wisdom and hands in experience with different types of cracks you are likely to encounter…

The Finger crack - Nothing nicer or more satisfying than sinking your fingers into a beautiful, tight, clean (by this I mean very little or no vegetation) crack!! This is by far the most enjoyable of all cracks around.

Hand Jamming - these cracks are often found to be slightly more vegetated than the finger cracks for some reason, this is perhaps due to the more traditional/natural style of the climbing, some love it and some hate it, it depends what your into I guess…

Fist jamming – just plain sick if you ask me. Definitely not one of the best situations to belayed in… but hey… what ever floats your boat…

Lastly the Off-width - protection here is totally hopeless it just doesn’t seem to fit unless your equipped with a really ‘big bro’. It has a tendency to want to spit you out all the time. This type of crack involves a lot more technique than what you would initially think. However… conquering such a crack can be quit fulfilling and will involve copious amounts of thrashing about and will more than likely sap every bit of energy from your body…

god just imagine a flaring off-width don’t think I’ve encountered one of those before

Few more handy hints before get laid…
Ensure you have good protection just before you get to the crux move. If you choose to go through the crux with dodgy protection you may suffer the consequences
For your own sake don’t to get your nuts stuck in any cracks! Parting with such valuable gear leaves stories for other people tell.

hey guys please let me know if I have left out any important info...
many thanks and good luck dan

From a woman’s point of view I can add a few more tips on this matter…

Technique is of utmost importance if you wish to be beLayed by the same person more than just once. Belaying requires considerable non-verbal communication between the people involved as correct speed and safety are essential. Finger or hand placements must be done with absolute confidence and precision – remember, you have a reputation to uphold. Never lose concentration on the matter at hand, or you could lose your beLayer - for life.

One last thing for you to take with you… Practice. The more you practice belaying, the better your chances of finding the perfect belayer..

Cum on Timmy... she said: \"Technique is of utmost importance\".... that was a cheap shot

It should be more like:

\"Hey Jane you sound like a thorough belayer, very tentative and very sure of yourself. I find this very appealing. It all adds to the comfort of having your tentative hands on the end of my live wire. Your ways of non-verbal communication sounds vertically enhancing. A project I’d like to experience with you… hands-on. By the way, where would where your favorite crag be and what do you enjoy climbing most…cracks or panicles, or are you laid-back enough to enjoy them both.
I would be honored with your presence for a route (the auzzie kind of root). You name the spot. Just to let you know that my rack is well hung...so please... fear not of lousy protection\"

Sorry to say Fanta, but I have a suspicion that you might be so pre-occupied with the size of your own equipment that your attention during belaying is not condusive to your partner reaching the crux. There is nothing worse than being ignored while being belayed, and this can lead to one or other partner being dropped.

Remember its not the size of your rack that counts, but what you do with it. If you stop thinking with your nuts you might find not only better positions with friends (though you sound like the traditional type), but that your protection and performance are improved too.

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