Under cabinet Lights?

I'm installing some Kichler Xenon Linear Lighting. All totaled the lights will be about 120 watts. My plan is to change one of my kitchen outlets to a switch and pull the power for the 12V transformer from there.

The kitchen outlets are on a GFCI with 12/2 wiring. Is it okay for me to tie-in a 5' run of 14/2 wiring to the transformer or should I use 12/2? I asked the electrical guy at Home Depot and he said that would be fine, but I wanted to check here as well.

Thanks,
Kelly

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I'm installing some Kichler Xenon Linear Lighting. All totaled the lights will be about 120 watts. My plan is to change one of my kitchen outlets to a switch and pull the power for the 12V transformer from there.

The kitchen outlets are on a GFCI with 12/2 wiring. Is it okay for me to tie-in a 5' run of 14/2 wiring to the transformer or should I use 12/2? I asked the electrical guy at Home Depot and he said that would be fine, but I wanted to check here as well.

Thanks,
Kelly

You can't add the switch into the ground fault circuit and also it is probably not permissible to remove the outlet because of code requirements along the counter tops.
Is the transformer plugged into an outlet or will it be mounted in or on a box?
There are a lot of things that can be done to home wiring and it will work but is it "legal" is another thing. The size of a circuit breaker is chosen to protect the house wiring and number 14 is rated for 15 amps. Your kitchen is on a 20 amp breaker. It may seem nit-picky but those are the rules....

You can have a switch on a GFCI circuit. There is no electrical code or manufacturers specs stating switches and GFIs don't mix that I've ever seen.

You do have a problem with code compliance concerning the kitchen circuits. Those countertop outlets are for small appliances and "shall serve no other outlets". 210.52B2 Also by removing the outlet that is there you could fall afoul of 210.52C1 regarding outlet spacing along a countertop.

I certainly don't want to break any electrical codes. The switch will be a dedicated control for the under cabinet lights. The 12/2 wire from the switch will be hardwired to the transformer, so nothing else can be placed on that circuit. Does that make a difference?

If not, how do people typically add under cabinet lights?

Doesn't really make a difference, the kitchen appliance circuits can't be used for lighting as well.

For adding undercabinet lighting, it totally depends on where the next local circuit is. If the living room is on that same wall and a receptacle is in that same wall space, I'd tap off that to feed the switch. If your attic access has a light in a box you could add a junction to it and feed the switch. You may be able to come off the power fed for the kitchen lighting depending on layout.

If the undercabinet lights plug into an outlet that is allowed as I understand
Hard wiring lighting from the small appliance branch circuits is not allowed
I'm not sure on code regarding a switch on the SABC that controls another outlet
--then on that outlet a transformer plugs in

I have quite a few light switches on GFCI protected circuits & I have never had a GFCI trip due to a switch

For 20a circuit you must use 12g wire
For a 15a circuit you can use either, usually I will always use 14g
For kitchen outlets you must have an outlet every 4' + other requirements:

I have quite a few light switches on GFCI protected circuits & I have never had a GFCI trip due to a switch

But isn't that against code also? I know the electrical code is there to protect homeowners, but what is the worst that could happen connecting a lowly 120 watt light to a GFCI? I mean, the GFCI should be the first line of defense for any issues, and the breaker the second.

However, instead of hardwiring the transformer, I'll wire in a standard plug to the transformer that can be plugged into the switched outlet. Does that meet code?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcrossley2

No worries here. The outlet I'm using was installed by accident by the builder and is not required to meet code. Lucky break for me.

I just discovered that, based on the diagram that Scuba_Dave posted, my builder did in fact make a mistake, which is why that electrical outlet is there and only 12" away from the one installed to the right of it. Man I hate this builder.

Anyway, all of this is getting too confusing, and possibly dangerous, so I'm going to pull the power from my switched overhead sink light instead. How can I tell if that'll work?