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Servo advice

About a week ago I installed a lcg kit on my slash when all was ready for the first run my truck was having a hard time steering. After some trouble shooting found the servo went bad on me. Anyways I've been looking at a couple new servos one of them being the savox sc-1258tg and a couple of hitec ones. Today I found one that caught my attention but could not find any reviews on it. Anyone have any experiance or knowlage on
the Gotek 9257MG Servo? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Is the servo binding at full turn? When i installed my strc kit I had to remove a bit of the tray near the servo arm because it was binding on turns. You may want to do that before you install another servo.

a lot of guys rave about savox, but I'm not familiar with the other one you mentioned.

Go with a servo with 150oz or more torque and a transit time of .15 or less at 6 Volts for best results.

The truck was having a hard time turning. After making sure nothing was binding I disconnected the servo saver from the servo and made sure that I hadn't over tightened the bellcrank, everything was moving smoothly and easy. I then hooked up a fresh
battery and tried turning the servo with the transmitter, that's when I noticed that the servo itself was having trouble turning
It was extremely slow and would not turn much and got hot quick. Are you talking about the lip in the front? My arm comes
pretty close but does not rub but I guess it won't hurt any to trim a bit off just to be safe. The other part that comes close is at the corners where the rods come out of the chassis to connect to the wheels. Ive read really good things about the savox servos
but not sure if I wanted to deal with installing a cc external bec.

I blew my slipper clutch pads last night so I'm looking for an up graded slipper for my 2wd slash. I've been looking all day and was wondering if a 4wd slash heavy duty slipper would work on my 2wd. Or any other suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
For any advice/suggestions given!

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I am having a similar issue with my 2075. as the temp rises throughout the race day, the servo gets weak. It is not getting hot at all, just under-performing as the ambient temps go from around 65-85°.

If you are bashing check out the savox 0251. It is plastic cased, metal geared, and almost half the cost of their $70 servos. I was using one and bashing with it, loved it, but sold it in an rtr as I am cleaning house. Never got to race with it to compare to a 2075. Racing so much more lately, the performance difference of individual items on the vehicle are way more apparent than when I am bashing.

Good to know. I went with a solar 771 and running 7.5v on it. Very happy with it for now plenty of speed and torque but
eventually will be getting a savox. Let's see how long this solar lasts! My new issue is my slipper clutch that i blew the pads on.

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I know alum slipper pads on an e-revo are a huge difference in durability compared to regular revo pads. I have seen alum pads for sale on ebay for the 2wd trucks. That being said, I have never had an issue with the stock pads on the 4-5lb 2wd trucks as compared to my 12 lb erbe.

Are you running an extremely loose slipper? I swear in about a thousand or 2 runs, I have never worn out a stock slipper pad.

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The slipper needs tightened down a bit when you at 50% more power. It will slip more... Still, I have my slipper pads from my first xl5 on my kids truck and they are only about 20% worn compared to new...

The slipper needs tightened down a bit when you at 50% more power. It will slip more... Still, I have my slipper pads from my first xl5 on my kids truck and they are only about 20% worn compared to new...

I think you are right. That might be where I went wrong I didn't even think about tightening the slipper when I switched to the
3s. I did hear the slipper screaming a lot more on the track but didn't even think twice about maybe because the other time I've ran 3s it's been on road but I'm taking it that the damaged might have already been done. I'll order the alum slipper pads and tighten down the slipper clutch a bit say 1/4 turn would be ok? Or play it by ear?

I will. I have some other upgrades to do that I just ordered parts for last night (the wife is going to kill me). Is rpm the only company that make plastic after market parts? Or is there another company I don't know about?

I will. I have some other upgrades to do that I just ordered parts for last night (the wife is going to kill me). Is rpm the only company that make plastic after market parts? Or is there another company I don't know about?

Try T-bone for plastic bumpers and wheelie bars. They make good stuff but it's kind of flexible.

That's the first place I checked and only found the shock mounts in plastic for use with the pro-trac suspension. Guess I just wanted something stronger that looked different from the stock but not have to go alum if that makes sence. Thanks for the sugestion and I'll have to take another look at the proline site. Just trying to beef up some parts to get the truck ready for a first attemp at 70mph this fall. I got alot of work to do before the first attempt.

I will. Waiting for parts to get here then the transformation will begin. Im going to try and do it so that I can switch back and forth easiely and quickly. I'll take pictures as I go along. I'm hoping that the plans in head work out.

Ok so tooday I parts to start the convertion on my slash. Slipper pads are on already so now I'm ready to move on. Ill try and post some epics of the progress. I am going to try and do this sonthat I can switch back and forth from on road to off road in a matter of a few screws and a few minutes. I'm going to try and do this right the first time so if any one has any pointers feel free to share.

I run the same setup on road and off except for rear tires. Just gotta be a little more careful on the road sometimes it will traction roll sometimes it wont.

Good to know ahead of time!! Thanks!. I am planning to lower and stiffin my venom shocks I currently have now a bit. (80wt oil and the trx black springs) to try to address the traction roll issue a head of time. I also have a set of GRP*tires (GRPGMW01B) on the way that should be here tomorrow. I'll be running the proline protoform pf8-gt body and will also be making a under chassis tray to seal some of the gap between the body and chassis. And for the front I'm working on a bumper mount that should (if everything goes right) from just about one outside of the tires to the other to hold a ofna gtp front foam bumper. Hopefully this will prevent too much air from coming in underneath the body and keep the tires planted to the road.

My set of black shock springs are very stiff... Almost too stiff for bashing with my Sl2sh.

Yeah I found that out when I first got them that's why they have been sitting in my tool box ever since. I think they will be fine for what I'm attempting. Got the wheels and tires in today so I will start the transformation tomorrow night and I should be getting the ABS sheet from work this coming week which I will be using to make the chasis under tray and front bumper mount.

Quick up date. Have not done much to the slash cause I've been busy with work. Started painting the body today and venom shocks will be rebuild today. I did yet time through out the to work on the D8 shocks for my normal off road use. If I did it right they should fit right in although I have a feeling that I will have to adjust the hight in the front. Still waiting for the ABS to make the under tray and front bumper mount. I will get some pictures up as soon as I can.

Ok the slash is ready for the road test run tomorrow (I hope). Front bumper was sanded and smoothed out and fits under the body just barely touching. The front of the body does not seem to flop when I put preasure on it with my fingers. It all seems like its ready to go.