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The Kenwood KAC-6202 2-channel is only rated for 60 watts RMS per channel into a 4 ohm load. That just isn't much power for a pair of 12" subs. Even the bridged output is only 200 watts into 4 ohms, still at the low end for a sub, much less to share between a pair of subs.

Assuming that your subs are 4 ohm, you could probably get more sound by driving just one of them on the bridged terminals. But to get the best power with what you have, connect one sub to each channel, set the filter switch to the far right (LPF), set the operation switch to stereo (both channels driven), set the filter frequency (Hz) to 100 or lower, and adjust the input sensitivity as far clockwise as possible without causing distortion.

But, to do the subs justice, you really need at least 300-400 watts to share between them.

My information shows the XM-1652Z as being a 2-channel amp. It will not be stable below 4-ohms in bridged mode. For best power, your subs will need to be 2-ohms with all 3 wired in series. This will present a 6-ohm load to the amp. After wiring the subs in series, connect the positive speaker wire to one channel (+) and the negative speaker wire to the other channel (-). For the 1652Z no other wiring is necessary. For subs you will also want to set the LPF (80Hz) switch to the "ON" position (to the right).

Keep in mind that the rated output is only 400 watts RMS at 4-ohms in bridged mode. That's kinda wimpy for 3 subs. You would probably obtain better results from two 2-ohm subs, each connected to a separate channel. That way each sub would be getting 200 watts RMS, still low but there's lots of good subs that will sound pretty loud with 150-200 watts

The amp's not actually a very good match for the sub, since the sub can be wired for 2 ohms or 8 ohms, and the amplifier is most efficient at 4 ohms in bridged mode. My advice would be to wire the amp in bridged mode, and wire the sub for an 8 ohm load. To do this, the amp's (+) wire should go to the (+) terminal on one of the sub's voice coils. Then run a wire from the (-) terminal on the OTHER voice coil to the (-) terminal on the amp. The remaining (+) and (-) terminals (on opposite voice coils) should be connected to each other with a wire.
Your original wiring setup had the amplifier connected to only one voice coil, while the other voice coil was shorted.