The real fun was mounting it to the wall with some hardware that I found at Lowes so that it "floats" about 4" out from the wall.

The mounting hardware for each bracket is made up of two pieces which slide together bolted along a slot in the middle. this allows for the screen to be adjusted by about 2" forward or backward at any of the corners by simply loosening the bolt, adjusting the screen and then re-tightening the bolt thus no need to take down the screen to make minor adjustments to "true" up the screen to the projector.

Best part is, the entire cost of the screen materials + mounting hardware was about $38.

I've been trying to get someone to do a floating screen in front of a black backdrop for a while now. Very nice job.

Do you get the feeling the image is floating in space when watching a movie?

I like the idea that your mounting system allows the screen to be tilted. For those of us without lens shift who want to avoid keystone correction the screen could be tilted so the screen is perpendicular to the normal from the projector lens. Have you tried that or do you not need to tilt your projector at all?

I'm waiting on delivery of the projector so that was one of the reasons I am glad that the screen can be adjusted. Hopefully I won't need to to but at least the option is there now.

The screen can be adjusted by about 2" on a side using the sliding hardware which does give some leeway for compensating for the position of the projector.

I'll try to take some pictures of the hardware tomorrow but since I don't have any extra pieces I may have to take the screen down in order to get the pictures. (I should have thought about taking them before I put it up, doh!)

Great job. I have been considering a floating screen. I've read about doing a french cleat (ripping a 2X4) but seems like having the hardware would make it adjustable. I do not have a projector with lens shift/keystone correction so I think this may be the answer in my case.

I've thought about using a velvet border on the wall to help catch any overspill. The other thing about a floating screen may be to use velvet to make an adjustable mask.

I would be interested in your pictures of the hardware to see how you did it. Thanks

OK, I took a few pictures of the hardware I used while the screen was still up on the wall.

Here is a shot of it from the side, brackets mostly closed:

And here is the same piece at about maximum extension (although not secured):

Finally here is an image from the top looking down:

These are inexpensive brackets made for mounting blinds.

As you can see, the brackets have channels molded into them and long narrow openings running down their length which make them ideal for this type of application.

The mount is made up of two of the exact same bracket. One is bolted to the wall and the other to the screen. Once all eight pieces have been secured to the correct positions on both the screen and the wall, the screen should simply slide forward onto the wall brackets.

Once it is up, you adjust the screen to the desired position and run a simple bolt and wing nut through the holes to lock it in place.

The real fun was mounting it to the wall with some hardware that I found at Lowes so that it "floats" about 4" out from the wall.

The mounting hardware for each bracket is made up of two pieces which slide together bolted along a slider in the middle. this allows for the screen to be adjusted by about 2" forward or backward at any of the corners by simply loosening the bolt, adjusting the screen and then re-tightening the bolt thus no need to take down the screen to make minor adjustments to "true" up the screen to the projector.

Best part is, the entire cost of the screen materials + mounting hardware was about $38.

How did you staple the screen to the back where the metal brackets are?

I have done a similar thing accept I used the hangman to hang the screen on the wall. This allows some horizontal adjustment of the screen. I was wondering if you have any light spill? I am finding that I have a small amount of light spill. No one that has come over has been able to see it until I point it out. With the lights off, you have to really look to see it. I think that I might be able to minimize this further by rebuilding the screen out of some better wood (right now it is made of pine that is already somewhat warped). I also thought about doing a border. My concern is that I will be able to see the border on my eggshell black wall. So for those of you that have a border, with the lights out, can you distinguish the border from the wall? Thanks

It includes some very specific instructions on how to stretch and staple the cloth to the frame.

That is the tutorial I used to make my original BOC screen with wood frame. I modified some of the construction design but not much. The key is that BOC is rather rubbery and can be stretched fairly aggressively when stapling.

The updated screen I made a few months ago used the same frame concept but with Sheerweave 4500 AT cloth instead. This stuff doesn't really stretch at all and was WAY more difficult to get tight. Were it not for having a friend doing stapling while I cranked on the fabric, it never would have been tight. I had no trouble getting BOC stretched tight working on my own.

I hung the screen I detailed above at about a 15 degree angle from the back wall as it's in the corner of a multipurpose room in the basement. It is hung with "invisible picture hanging wire" (fishing line) I got at Home Depot. There are two hooks screwed into ceiling joists and two eye screws into the top of the frame. It works great. I don't know that it really has that much of a "floating in space" effect but maybe that's just because I'm used to it.

Also glad i stumbled across this as i was about to finally put together my 1x4 (flat not on edge) floating screen (held off the wall ~2" by 2x4 french cleats).

I didnt even think about using 1/4 round along the very edge to prevent any "push-through" from the 1x4 frame causing edges inside to show. Is this "mandatory" or have others had good success with just 1x4/1x3 flat frames?

I do it just as the photo you showed. If you have a table saw you can cut a slight angle on the frame pieces. The slightest bump thru will show up sometimes.

**** that's what i was worried about. Screen is going to be 139" (diag) and i bought 1x4's for the strength not even thinking that their width might allow show-through. Guess i'll have to go buy a bunch of 1/4 round this weekend and some glue.

Also glad i stumbled across this as i was about to finally put together my 1x4 (flat not on edge) floating screen (held off the wall ~2" by 2x4 french cleats).

I didnt even think about using 1/4 round along the very edge to prevent any "push-through" from the 1x4 frame causing edges inside to show. Is this "mandatory" or have others had good success with just 1x4/1x3 flat frames?

My flat frame does not have that issue even after nearly eight years. Material is smooth and flat across the entire screen.

That said, Just how truly flat your frame is as well as how thick your cloth and tightly and evenly you attach it to the frame may cause different results.

My flat frame does not have that issue even after nearly eight years. Material is smooth and flat across the entire screen.

That said, Just how truly flat your frame is as well as how thick your cloth and tightly and evenly you attach it to the frame may cause different results.

I'm using Carls FlexiWhite and stretching it over a 16:9 133" (diag) frame of flat 1x4 poplar (1x3 braces in middle). You dont have any issues with the inner edge of your wooden frame "showing through" the screen?

No issues. The screen is completely smooth. The hardware to assemble it is on the back side of the screen.

All I used was blackout cloth from Joann's fabrics.

Again though, depending upon how you build it and just how tightly you secure the cloth you may have different results. Conversely, the round edge "picture frame" build would seem to guarantee that you don't have any issues. I probably would have done it that way myself if I had know about that method at the time.

No issues. The screen is completely smooth. The hardware to assemble it is on the back side of the screen.

All I used was blackout cloth from Joann's fabrics.

Again though, depending upon how you build it and just how tightly you secure the cloth you may have different results. Conversely, the round edge "picture frame" build would seem to guarantee that you don't have any issues. I probably would have done it that way myself if I had know about that method at the time.

Good to know. I think i'm going to skip the 1/4 round as i'd like it as thin as possible, profile wise. I'm using FlexiWhite so i should probably be ok with it properly taught. Lets hope! lol

Good to know. I think i'm going to skip the 1/4 round as i'd like it as thin as possible, profile wise. I'm using FlexiWhite so i should probably be ok with it properly taught. Lets hope! lol

There wouldn't be any worries at all if only the Central braces had been 1 x 3s and set back flush to the rear of the Frame.

Recessing the Central supports has been the standard for some time. Really, only those who build a frame based on "outside" diagrams, or older examples on this Forum still have such concern to face. My last 5 Frames, all of which as shown in Threads, were 1x4 on the Perimeter and 1x3s for Supports.

Don't second guess....better still, you don't have to do a 2nd attempt. "Quarter Round it" using the smallest Quarter Round you can find. Clue it and let the Glue set up 24 hours. It doesn't take much tension when pulling Flexi taunt to keep the material off the recessed Central supports.