i'm really undecided about reversing it. the magnet obstructs air movement over panel f. that can't be good. i just checked the mounting depth of J_rock's subs. it's identical to the mounting depth of mine. but J used a triple 3/4" baffle. so in his case it should be a 0.25" increase in the distance between panel f and the magnet.???EDIT :good 'ole 25hz tone helps....removed the bottom lid and i let the 25 hz tone rip. first with about 50w. i couldn't feel a diffrence in air movement between the part under the magnet and the 'unrestricted' part. i noticed now that the metal plate on the bottom of the magnet is conical. and it gets smaller at the edge. so, taking a better look, it seems like it's not that bad. i increased the power until the insert vibrated too bad. only noise i could notice was coming from between the boxes. none coming from the driver and the pats that worried me.waiting steve's answer, but my dad told me something really smart : "do you like how it sounds? yes? then leave it the way it is !"

I place all my DB subs with the magnet structure in the ported enclosure. Mainly because I have never had a problem with a mechanical failure in a sub driver. Always the VC melting or something before the VC exits the gap.

I re-read the white papers also, and it is like 40 and up says, the magnet is to be put in the sealed chamber.

Its interesting to note the original driver they used is a Kicker Competition C-10 by stillwater designs. I happen to have 2 of these in the 12 inch version. And they are the only drivers I have tested in a DB and the recommended sealed and ported enclosures. And the DB did outperform just like the article stated.

I have tried other 10" subs in their recommended enclosure against the DB, and the DB always wins.

2 more things to edit in:

1. The pictures of the insert on the website and in the plans do show the driver's magnet inside the ported section of the Box.

2. Perhaps I have not had any trouble with mechanical failure because todays drivers are much more rebust than those of yester-year. I mean, perhaps mechanical limits were indeed the limits back then, whereas thermal power handling is the main limit nowadays.

I would try it as is first, then flip it around and see if there is a significant improvement. If there is, then cut the second baffle larger so it can breath a bit more.

Steve

i guess it didn't clarify the magnet in sealed vs magnet in vented discussion but it gave me some piece of mind. btw, the insert still isn't bolted in and sealed but i like it the way it is now. with the insert just at the top of the port. the thing with the mechanical limits was that the vcs were rubbing against the t-pole because of uneven pressures in the box. but there is a possibility that the subs bottomed out...

leather work is done. everything is in place. only one dillema : should i stretch the leather inside the port, or should i leave the routed port uncovered and paint it black ? i also plan painting all the mdf that is visible through the port.

stretch the leather inside and then staple it as well as glue it. stretch it around our rounded port and then trim it and that will depend on where where you place the insert. If the insert is placed higher you could stretch the leather inside the port.or at least on the rim.but you may have to tack it on the inside of the rim of the port with tacks so when it tightens it will not pull away from the port.I don't know how that would work at the port after time though.I have done some Upholstery in the past but never fastened anything like that.The sub itself would hold the Upholstery and the port was a plastic insert. most of all my stuff was ported with a round port insert.Man! lately this stuff is bringing back memories I remember covering a 6th order that I didn't even know was a 6th order about thiry years ago. Sob* Im old :( I never bothered with audio for nearly 20 year until the last few) blah blah blah blah

i covered half the port. i mean you can't see bare mdf on the port, but the leather isn't stretched inside. box is also tuned and the insert sealed in place using strips of leather. no more silicone this time. it turned out real nice. something is holding me back from trying it (currently using the sub in a crappy out of spec sealed box, but still sounding good), but considering i haven't listened to it in 2 months, it's weird.i feel weird. must be the contact cement i'm using...homeless drug-heads use it as a cheap drug.next piece of bare mdf that i'm going to cover is the amp rack :-*

thanks. 2" mdf baffle. 1" mdf walls. i hope it won't vibrate. but if it does, the bottom panel is removable still thinking about what to add below the x-over in the rack. something just for decorative purposes.

it would only cool the asorted crap in the storage space but it would look nice to have a wooden grill. just need to find the stuff we used to stain the wood, because there are plenty of leftovers wood pieces in the attic.