Monday, February 14, 2011

Murphy Bed with IKEA Cabinets

My wife and I decided to re-do our guest room. We wanted our guests to have a comfortable Queen-size bed, and use the floor space for other activities. The solution... a Murphy Bed (folding wall bed). After a lot of research, we decided to purchase a free-standing Murphy Bed Frame. The frame features welded steel construction, simple spring mechanism, and moves independent of the cabinet. The other option, a Murphy Panel Bed, is more expensive and requires attachment to a factory-made cabinet. The frame and cabinet essentially become one mechanism.

To build our own cabinets, we turned first to IKEA furniture. The quality is very good, relatively inexpensive, and there are many accessories to choose from. Just by coincidence, I found a wonderful blog (Herbie's World) that detailed construction using a Murphy Bed Frame and IKEA cabinets. Exactly what we were looking for. Herbie's blog and photos convinced us the idea would really work. Thanks Herbie!

The design is based on standard IKEA PAX wardrobe cabinets. The cabinets are tall enough to enclose the Murphy Bed in the vertical position. However, to accommodate the width of a Queen-size bed (65" clearance), top and toe-kick panels are fabricated to extend a standard cabinet (1-door wide) to a "quadruple-wide" cabinet (4-doors wide); using stock Birkeland doors. That's essentially the build. My fabrication follows Herbie's design, except I strengthened the top panel. We wanted the center cabinet to support boxes (cloths, comforters, books, etc.). Click here to see my fabrication photos.

HINT: Because the center cabinet's bi-fold doors are completely supported by the side panels (which are secured to the cabinets on each side), you don't even need the center top panel. Here you can be creative with your own design.

Tools and Time Required

This is an intermediate woodworking project that will require 5-6 days to complete. You must be comfortable using a miter saw, and either a band saw or table saw (preferable). Also, you'll need an electric drill, various drill bits (including 19mm and 35mm Forstner bits), hammer, screw driver, various clamps, and measuring tools. I also purchased an inexpensive wood dowel kit to fabricate the toe-kick panel.

List of Materials

Qty

Item

Vendor

Purpose

Price ($)

1

Queen-size Murphy Bed Frame

Murphy Bed Depot

Murphy bed mechanism

285.00

1

Wall Mount Bracket

Murphy Bed Depot

Connects bed frame to wall

50.00

1

Queen-size Mattress Foundation

Murphy Bed Depot

Supports mattress1

110.00

Sub-total

$445.00

3

PAX Cabinet Frame (100.140.30)

IKEA

Enclose Murphy Bed

270.00

4

PAX Birkeland Door (900.493.23)

IKEA

Center cabinet bi-fold doors

320.00

2

PAX Birkeland Glass Door (200.904.72)

IKEA

Doors for side cabinets

160.00

6

Komplement Door Hinge, 3 pack

IKEA

Attach doors to cabinets

60.00

1

Komplement Door Hinge, 4 pack

IKEA

Attach doors to cabinets

10.50

3

Gravy Handel, 2 pack

IKEA

Door handles

24.00

Sub-total

$884.50

3

Komplement Drawer (901.839.72)

IKEA

Optional

90.00

2

Komplement Clothes Rail (401.411.64)

IKEA

Optional

10.00

2

Komplement Shelf, 2 pack (801.466.64)

IKEA

Optional

30.00

Sub-Total

$130.00

3

Melamine Shelf, 3/4" x 11-3/4" x 97"

Home Depot

Top and toe-kick panels2

40.00

3

Azek Trim Stud, 1" x 3-1/2" x 96"

Home Depot

Fabricate top panel "box"

60.00

1

Diablo 1-3/8" (34.93mm) Forstner Drill Bit

Home Depot

Drill European hedge cups

17.00

1

Diablo 3/4" (19.05mm) Forstner Drill Bit

Home Depot

Countersink bolts in studs

10.00

2

Piano Hinge, 72"

Home Depot

Connect bi-fold doors

31.00

50

Crown Bolt Wood Screws, #10 x 2"

Home Depot

Fabricate top panel "box"

6.00

8

Nuts & Bolts & Washers, #10 x 1-1/2"

Home Depot

Bolt top panel to side frame

3.00

6

Lag Bolts, #10 x 3"

Home Depot

Secure wall-mount bracket

3.00

8

Plastic Countersink Plugs, 3/4"

Home Depot

Cover countersink holes

4.00

4

Heavy Duty Wall Anchors

Home Depot

Secure side cabinets to wall

6.00

20

Wood Screws, #8 x 1"

Home Depot

Attach foundation to frame

2.50

1

Wood Dowel Kit

Home Depot

Fabricate toe-kick panel

6.00

2

Magnetic Door Latch

Home Depot

Fabricate toe-kick panel

4.00

Sub-total

$192.50

Total Material (without mattress)

$1,652.00

1. A mattress foundation is required. You can either order one from Murphy Bed Depot or fabricate your own.
2. Herbie used a single 24" wide shelf to fabricate the top panel. Because I didn't have a table saw, I used 11-3/4" wide shelves which are easier to cut with a band saw.

A similar system (Murphy Bed Frame, raised door cabinets, and side bookshelves) would cost $2,299.00. Build-it-yourself and save approx. $650.00. Plus, the IKEA PAX system offers real wardrobe cabinets, glass doors, and many accessories that will delight your better half.

We decided not to purchase lights. We used a free-standing floor lamp that fits inside the cabinet.

On with the build...

Step 1: Paint the Guest RoomThe first weekend was spent painting the guest room and shopping for materials at Home Depot. The Murphy Bed Frame and foundation were ordered online, and delivered in less than a week.

Step 2: Buy IKEA Cabinets
The next weekend we loaded up the car (recommend using a pickup truck ) with PAX cabinets, Komplement accessories, and Queen-size mattress. Note that the PAX door hinges (you'll need 22) are purchased separately. I didn't realize this and had to make a separate trip.

Step 3: Assemble Wardrobe Side Cabinets
I assembled the wardrobe cabinets (2) and secured one with heavy-duty wall anchors. Note that a 3/4" spacer (wood block) was placed behind the cabinet (at the top) for vertical alignment with the floor molding. Later, the other cabinet is secured when the doors are hung, i.e., after final spacing.

Step 4: Measure the Center Cabinet Dimension
Getting the exact width dimension of the center cabinet is critical! This measurement is used to fabricate the cabinet's top and toe-kick panels. How did I do it? I laid all four doors on the ground (carpet) and inserted cardboard spacers. I attached the doors on each end to the frame side-panels; pointing up 90 degrees. This simulates the doors in the closed position. With everything in place, I measured the inside width, side-panel to side-panel... 77-3/32" (see photo).

HINT: Perhaps a safer approach would be to actually hang the doors in the vertical position, then take the inside measurement. However, installing the top panel now becomes impossible. You would have to remove the doors, install the top panel, then hang the doors again.

Step 5: Build Top Support "Box"Building the center cabinet top support is nothing more than constructing a wooden box. Easy! The Melamine shelves (2) are secured to vinyl studs (4 sections) with wood screws, countersunk around the edge. Although the vinyl studs are expensive, they are easy to work with and match the look of the Melamine selves (no painting required). I recommend cutting the studs with a miter saw and sanding the edges. Note that the width of the two shelves (side-by-side) must equal the cabinet's depth (approx. 23"). I cut approx. 1/2" off one shelf (length-wise) using a band saw.

Step 6: Install Top Support "Box"
The top support "box" is bolted to the center frame side-panels (you'll need to drill holes). I used #10 x 1-1/2" bolts -- four on each side. With three sides of the center frame assembled, lift the frame into the vertical position (takes two people). Finally, bolt the center frame to the wardrobe side cabinets (already in place). IKEA provides these bolts. This baby is strong!

IMPORTANT: The top support "box" will block the top door hinges. This is not a big deal, since you're going to install additional hinges to support the weight of the bi-fold doors. I used seven (7) hinges on each door (Herbie used six hinges).

Step 7: Install Piano Hinge on Bi-Fold DoorsWith two doors laying flat on the carpet, install the piano hinge (remember the rib faces up). Be sure to place cardboard spacers between the doors.

Step 8: Hang Bi-Fold Doors
Thanks to Herbie for this tip! Hang the bi-fold doors using the pre-drilled holes. Now the tricky part.... with the door in place (and supported), drill four (4) additional "European" hinge cups (use 35mm Forstner drill bit). Use the hinge, seated inside the hinge cup, as a template to drill the two pilot holes on each side of the cup (use #10 drill bit). When you're finished, you'll have seven (7) hinges supporting the bi-fold doors.

HINT: To prevent drilling through the door, wrap the #10 drill bit with masking tape at the proper depth.

Step 9: Hang Second Bi-Fold Doors
Repeat Steps 7 & 8 for the second set of doors. Fortunately, my inside measurement (77-3/32") was correct. The doors lined up perfectly with an 1/8" gap. Note that the IKEA hinges allow for some gap adjustment after installation.

Step 10: Install the Glass DoorsInstall the glass doors (2) on the side cabinets. You may or may not want to add the plastic glass dividers. My wife decided she liked the look.

Step 12: Install Door Handles
Take a look at the photos to see how I positioned the handles.

Time to celebrate... most of the cabinet construction is finished.

Step 13: Assemble Murphy Bed Frame
The frame assembly instructions are poor. Just to get my head around things, I first labeled each part. To secure the frame to the wall, I drilled pilot holes pointing down towards the wall studs. The Wall Mount Bracket was secured with #10 x 3" Lag bolts (three on each side). Very strong! The thin wood screws supplied with the mounting kit didn't seem strong enough.

For me, the tricky part was assembling the foot retraction mechanism. Two 1/2" nylon spacers (included with the frame) are needed for proper alignment. Read the instructions carefully and do not lose the spacers! A little WD-40 lubricant helps the mechanism retract smoothly.

Step 14: Install the Springs
This is a bitch!!! Using a screwdriver as a lever and the frame as a fulcrum, you are suppose to left the springs up and into the upper holes. Not an easy task. I found that all 10 springs were needed.

CAUTION: Watch those fingers!

Step 15: Install Mattress Foundation
I agree with Herbie, the foundation is cheap! The foundation comes in three sections that are secured to the bed frame with wood screws (use #8 x 1"). If you want to build your own foundation (perhaps out of plywood), recognize the foundation extends beyond the frame on each side and at the foot (Queen size 60" X 80"). Also, there is a cutout near the head so the foundation does not rub against the frame. At this point in the project, you'll probably be too tired to fabricate your own foundation. Might as well order one with the bed frame.

Step 16: Install Mattress
The IKEA Fidjetun mattress comes shrink-wrapped. Open the night before so the mattress can expand to normal size. With the mattress installed, the Murphy Bed floats effortlessly with one hand!

Step 17: Fabricate the Toe-Kick Panel
The toe-kick panel is constructed from the remaining Melamine shelf. The panel is only for aesthetic purposes (non-weight bearing). I glued the pieces together using wood dowels. Lining up dowels is tricky, so it helps to use a dowel kit and drill press. I used a simple "L" brace on each end to attach the toe-kick panel to the side panels.

Step 18: Install Door Latch
I used a simple magnet latch. The doors close tight.

Step 19: Install 35mm Wooden Plugs (optional)At Rockler.com I found a "35mm Hinge Hole Repair Kit" (#34339). The wooden plugs were inserted into the hedge cups, then painted. Note that the Birkeland glass doors (not the regular doors) come with plastic inserts to cover the extra hinge cups. I tried to order more of these from IKEA, but they did not stock the part.

Step 20: Show-off to Friends & Family
We are absolutely delighted with our new Murphy Bed. The frame mechanism will last a lifetime and the IKEA cabinets look stunning! If you have the patience and modest ability, you can build one yourself. Thanks again to Herbie for blazing the trail.

60 comments:

It is awesome to see someone else doing this as well. I particularly like the way you boxed in the top piece. I was thinking (after the fact) that I should have done that, though it would be a bit harder to do now.

Hello. I have been visiting Herbie's blog post for this project for a long time trying to get up the courage to attempt this project. I have a couple of questions:

1. Can the pieces of melamine that need to be cut be cut by the home improvement store (lowe's/home depot)? I do not know how to use a saw and do not want to learn on such a project.

2.Also I would like to know if it is possible to do this project on a wall that stands by itself (no adjacent walls).

3. Can the smaller width (17.5" rather than 26") pax cabinets be used? Or would that be too tight a space for the mattress and murphy bed mechanism?

I am going to attempt this project but was hoping that it would take no longer than a day to be put together if I precut all the pieces and only have to worry about assembly.

Can you give the measurements of the length of the top melamine sheet? Is it the 77-3/32 ?

I REALLLLY want to build this (with different doors) but I know I'm going to have a lot of questions... do you mind me contacting you as I run into problems? I am a pharmacy student who loves do it yourself projects and I always make it through them some how but having support from someone who has already successfully completed the project would be amazing.

Fabricating the top panel requires very precise measurements (77-3/32" long x 22-7/8" wide). Home Depot or Lowes cannot cut shelves that precise. Since you are not comfortable using a table saw, I would recommend building the cabinet WITHOUT a top panel. It's not necessary, since the center frame is really supported by the wardrobe cabinets on each side. Instead of fabricating the toe-kick panel (the way Herbie and I did), you could simply use a single Azek Trim Stud. You could cut the stud with a hand saw. If you are looking for 1-day build, then I recommend purchasing a factory-made cabinet. Hope that helps.

Wow this is absolutely great! We are looking to do the very same thing in an addition we are having built. Right now we have to put out of town company up in a hotel or have our eldest sleep on the floor of his brothers' room (think 2 teenage boys and 1 tween plus 85 lb dog all in one small room... a little too cozy!) Once the addition is built we will have an additional "bedroom" but plan to use it as a multipurpose room. Is there any additional advice you would give? Thank you for the heads up about Murphy Bed Depot!

Thank you for your comments. My wife and I continue to be delighted with Murphy Bed Frame. Recently we did add a 1-1/2" memory foam topper to the mattress. Add all cotton sheets and you have ultimate comfort.

This looks great! My boyfriend and I would love to add a murphy bed to the guestroom, but they are so expensive! I'm really intrigued, but a bit unsure if we could do it ourselves. We would only have a double bed and I probably wouldn't worry about installing the top box (just to keep things simpler). If we used a cabinet that was wide enough to fit the double bed (like the Botne http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/60178019 from ikea)would it be as simple as constructing the cabinet and securing it to the wall, adding the murphy bed system and mounting the doors? Or am I imagining this to be way simpler than it is ;)

Mimi - I think the dimensions of the IKEA Botne cabinet may work for a double-size bed. Be sure to measure the INSIDE dimensions and discuss the size with Murphy Bed Depot. It will be tight. The doors are another issue. The two smaller doors (on the left) would have to become bi-fold doors using a piano hinge. You may need to add hinges to support the weight of two doors (I used seven hinges for my Birkland doors). Finally, the center support panel, along with the top panes, must be removed. This means the side panels must be strengthen; you could use "L" braces attached to the wall. Good luck and let me know what you discovered. You're on the right track to saving a lot of money!

Thanks for replying Gerry! I will have to make a trip to ikea to check out the measurements of the inside width of the cabinet. Maybe this is a silly question, but why would the top pane have to be removed? I think you are right and extra hinges would be necessary to make the 2 smaller doors into a bifold door. I guess the bottom panel would need to be removed too so that you can mount the murphy bed mechanism to the floor or wall, right?

Marissa -- The IKEA Botne cabinet has a center panel, creating two halves. Obviously, the center panel will be removed to make room for the Murphy Bed Frame. Without the center panel, the top panels have to go too. This would leave the side panels without any support. Although I suggested using "L" braces to attach the side panels to the wall, I now think there would be significant wobble when the doors are attached. You'll probably need to fabricate a new top panel. Basically build a box. Don't get discouraged... you're on the right track.

What a fabulous project, elegantly executed! This will be perfect form our guest room! Thank you for the great directions- some people can build, and some people can write and Jerry, apparently, can do both!

Amazing results! Can I ask if I could do the same with a Twin Murphy Bed by placing it in a Two Door Pax that's 23 5/8 deep just by cutting the existing bottom panel into a toe kick to make room for the mechanism?(http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S79894596/#/S79894624)

This is amazing! I've been wanting to build a murphy bed for a while and have been trying to get one of the engineers at my work who does carpentry to help. He's been resistant, but I'm going to show him this blog tomorrow - I'm wearing him down. Do you think someone with no carpentry skills can accomplish this? I should say, I'm one of those people that measures 4 times and still manages to cut wrong. Do you think this would be too difficult for me to take on? I normally don't mind taking on projects that I might mess up, but this one comes at a higher cost.Thanks for this detailed post!Kayla

Kayla, thank you for such a nice note. To answer your question; yes, you need to have intermediate carpentry skills to take on this project. Building the center section will require either a miter saw (what I used) or a table saw (preferable). Installing the extra door hinges requires patience and accuracy. Making a mistake will cost $80 for a new door. Ouch! Finally, be prepared to work 5-6 days on the project. I recommend that you get some help from your friend on the hard tasks. Otherwise, assembling the IKEA cabinets is straight-forward. Thanks again, Jerry

Jerry, this is one stunning build! I'm bookmarking this for a project we hope to do this spring, when we knock down a wall to combine one tiny guest room and one tiny den into a large multipurpose room. This is a fantastic way to still have a space for overnight guests without breaking the bank.

I have a completely off topic question. We just added a Pax closet into our master bedroom with the same Birkland doors in white. I'm now trying to pick a paint color and love the color of your room. What color is this? Also what color is your baseboard trim? Did you paint your baseboard to match "ikea white"

Goodness, I love this! Thanks for sharing this, its genius and looks amazing! I have recently moved into and apt with my sister and we don't have much space. We want to possibly construct something like a murphy bed hardware. I think it would help with space. We just need to know how to go about it. Thanks again for sharing!

Jerry - Great directions. It made completing my version of this very easy. I went with the black/brown ikea color so had to substitute some MDF for the melamine to build my top box. The only mistake I made was not following your directions closely when it came to measuring my space for building the top box as I built it an 1 1/2" too wide. Better to have it too wide than too narrow....But I did end up tearing it all down and fixing it. One issue I have that I wanted to see if you experienced was with the bifold doors. The inside half of the door that is just connected via the piano hinge constantly wants to swing out. I wonder if I need to reinstall my piano hinge as it could be misaligned. Otherwise I was thinking on installing a hook and eye on the inside of the doors to hold it back. Any thoughts? Thanks again. Your meticulous detail of your documentation made this a joy to build!

Oh my goodness! You LEFT the Murphy bed???!! I realize it would be impossible to take with, but I have been reading this post for 15 minutes and ***I**** feel invested with your project. I can only IMAGINE that you would be... I suppose it's not a reason to stay FOREVER...

Thanks Melissa! Very nice of you to respond, however, the Murphy Bed actually added to the value of the house and helped with the re-sale. You can't say that about most beds. Good luck with your project.

I have been looking for MONTHS - considering either biting the bullet and buying one already made or the hubby and I trying to figure out how to make one ourselves (which is how I actually ended up in the room I sitting in right now)... thanks to you - I think it's a done deal. Well done. You've been Pinterested to death now. Woohoo!

Ah Jerry,I'll bet you didn't think that over 2 years on you'd still be talking about this build :)I, along with everyone else that's commented, love the project and will be pinching your ideas for my own wee project here. Out of interest, you've reached the Scottish Highlands and we thank you for that Wishing you all you wish yourself in your new home

Jerry - Your site was super helpful on my own build. Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. The biggest difference on my build was that I didn't have room for the two end cabinets. Here is my build if you're interested:

This is incredible!! Thanks intended for publishing this! I will be consequently glad I ran across this. I have been considering putting in the Murphy Bed within my house which is definitely great! Many thanks thanks thanks!!

Great Stuff. Thanks for posting. Looks great. Will venture to Ikea to look for special deals and will start planning for the project. I was going to build the boxes from scratch and only buy the doors from Ikea to to make it stronger buit this one looks like will last a while.

Sorry for the late reply. I understand your concern about drilling through the door. I recommend that drill a little bit, then insert the hinge. Eventually the hinge will sit flush. That's when you stop. Just go slow... drill... check... drill... check.

Fantastic post. Would you recommend using this type of murphy-like mechanism, versus the one you have used? http://www.wallbed.com/deluxe_kit.htmlYour bed is "free standing", and the wall bed rests on top of the actual fauxcabinet doors. Not sure that will stand up to time.

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Murphy Beds are so versatile and awesome. I always wonder about their mechanism. It help you to make a free space in your tiny room. If you have a proper plan and got a Murphy Bed Kits then you can build your one. so try once.