More

More from Complex Networks

Complex International

COMPLEX participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means COMPLEX gets paid commissions on purchases made through our links to retailer sites. Our editorial content is not influenced by any commissions we receive.

Why Streetwear Brands Need to Make Political Statements

On Nov. 4, 2016, less than a week before the Election Day showdown between Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump, Supreme took to Instagram to encourage their followers to vote. “This might be the most important decision of your life, make it count. Go Vote Tuesday, November 8th,” the caption read, underneath a photo of skater Sage Elsesser holding an “I Voted” sticker, flanked by his cohorts Tino Razo, Jason Dill and Bianca Chandon designer Alex Olson. The text also included two telling hashtags—#imwithher and #fucktrump—that pinpointed the exact political allegiances of the legendary New York skate brand.

As noted in press coverage at the time, this was the first instance of Supreme endorsing a political candidate, although it wasn’t the first time the brand had waded into politics—in 2005, for example, they memorably released a batch of stickers that read “Fuck Bush” in the typeface of their famous box logo.

As far as political statements go, the Instagram photo and caption weren’t especially nuanced; they didn’t even mention Clinton by name. But, what Supreme did accomplish was tell their customers and fans exactly where they stood politically, a disclosure that, according to some, is becoming more and more important to shoppers in the current political climate.

POST CONTINUES BELOW

Supreme's "Fuck Bush" sticker. (Image via Supreme)

“Consumers are actively looking for brands that share their values,” Celine Semaan says. The founder of socially conscious clothing and accessories label Slow Factory—you may have recently caught Selena Gomez wearing the brand’s “We The People” necklace, created to benefit the ACLU—Semaan is an outspoken proponent of fashion activism. “There is an urgency in brands to be more engaged in politics,” she says, noting that the traditionally safe practice of remaining silent for fear of alienating customers who vote with their wallets is no longer a viable option for any brand, including those in the fashion space. “We need to have a serious commitment from brands to embrace their power and leverage their audience to raise awareness, empower, and support change,” she says.

Streetwear industry veteran Bobby Hundreds has regularly used social media to call for similar action. “I think it’s risky to not speak to truth,” he tells Complex. “The most effective brands channel the people behind the label and their perspective. If you’re quiet in this climate, you appear disingenuous or sycophantic. Thirsty. And I guarantee that it will backfire. Whether today or in the future, your silence will speak volumes to the marketplace.”

POST CONTINUES BELOW

A recent survey conducted by public relations firm Edelman lends credence to his claim, confirming that 57 percent of global shoppers say they buy from or boycott brands based on the brand’s stated political stance.

Semaan believes that in the realm of fashion, streetwear brands are inherently well-positioned to speak up. “Streetwear has always been avant-garde in fashion, as it has always been able to grasp the energy and the movement the youth was bringing forward,” she explains. The category has a legacy of social activism, dating back to examples like PNB Nation’s “Intention and Deed” T-shirt commemorating the Black Panther Movement or Freshjive taking on police brutality, or the retailer Digital Gravel supporting brands unafraid to make bold political statements. “Historically, streetwear was founded on the principles of response,” Hundreds explains. “Like most subcultures, the artists and designers who pioneered streetwear were outspoken and sought change. Streetwear, especially, is a political statement.”

Protest T-shirts, in general, date back even further than what we now know as streetwear. “We saw a surge in political statements on tees during turbulent times like the Vietnam War and the Cold War era,” Scott Tepper, founder of the Los Angeles brand Ignored Prayers, says. “We are currently living in one of these times.”

POST CONTINUES BELOW

James Bond, co-founder of L.A.’s Undefeated, agrees with that characterization of our present era. “If you really look at streetwear as a culture, it’s under attack from the police, politicians, and the right,” he says. “As a culture, we need to educate and inform each other when we can.”

A mural of Colin Kaepernick kneeling during the National Anthem at Undefeated's L.A. store. (Image via Undefeated)

“Colin K. used his platform to speak his voice, and we will continue to use our platform to inform and inspire change,” Bond says. “Ironically, we have a diverse consumer, so it's great to see them come in and be inspired or shook by our visual protest [that] forces them to think how they want to participate.”

A representative for Noah said Babenzien was traveling this month and unavailable for comment; he did not respond to a request sent to his personal email. Last year, he told Highsnobiety that he has modest expectations for the effects of his work. “We’re pretty small, so we’re not changing the game with the money we raised,” he told the site in an email. “But the debate might have some small impact. Our approach to everything is brick by brick.”

Our President himself, it should be noted, is among those who’ve harnessed the power of fashion activism. Last November, Bobby Hundreds observed that Trump’s red Make America Great Again hats—ubiquitous among his base before the election and since—take a page from a familiar handbook when he tweeted that “Trump is basically starting a streetwear brand now.”

POST CONTINUES BELOW

MAGA hats are but one example of how the same medium can be used by opposing sides of the political spectrum and those with any number of motives—which includes, inevitably, brands simply looking to cash in on a movement. “For some, I call bullshit,” Tepper says. “For some, the formula is purely about generating dollars, and that is ok.”

Semaan is confident that an emboldened and educated consumer will be able to see opportunists for what they are. She cites examples from other industries, like the backlash against Kendall Jenner’s ill-advised, protest-themed Pepsi commercial. “Brands looking to jump on the activist wagon because of hype and trend will be exposed,” she says. “Their customers are 10 times smarter than their marketing consultants and will find out if the brand is just trying to gain profit.”

Noah 'Black Lives Matter' T-shirt. (Image via Noah)

It’s unclear what the end result would look like if we had an economy in which every company adopted the uninhibited activist stance taken by streetwear brands like Noah. For what it’s worth, according to the same Edelman study, 51 percent of consumers worldwide report that they believe brands are better suited than governments to solve social problems. “It would be a wasted opportunity not to take advantage of the medium we have at hand,” says Tepper of streetwear brands. “At the very least, make something to stir up a conversation.”

POST CONTINUES BELOW

Semaan would like to see streetwear labels go even further. “I challenge them to think of ways to create a positive impact with the sales of their items,” she says. “It goes beyond the statement T-shirts.”

Adds Hundreds, “Last I checked, ideas carry much more impact in the universe than cotton T-shirts. They certainly last longer.”