On a recent weeknight we decided to give Piquant a try. What we found was a comfortable restaurant with cloth napkins and elegant decor serving wholesome, flavorful plates of Korean comfort food.

The service, while extremely friendly, was also extremely slow. We could see the activity in the kitchen through a large plate glass window and it appeared there was a single cook individually preparing the meals one plate at a time.

The individual attention to detail is commendable and resulted in attractive plates, but those plates arrived an hour and 15 minutes after we placed our orders.

Our server did apologize for the delay about 10 minutes before our meals arrived. Also, we were given a complimentary appetizer about halfway through the wait - a "pancake" with leeks and jalapeños in an eggy batter, cut into wedges. These were then dipped into a sweet soy sauce. The appetizer was delicious and we quickly ate all of it.

Those jalapeños are an example of the pan-Pacific fusion that informs the food at Piquant, and also one of the reasons the restaurant bills itself as a purveyor of "modern Korean cuisine."

When they did arrive, our entrees were well presented plates of hearty food.

The bibimbap ($14) is a sort of salad of lettuce and cucumber garnished with generous portions of sauteed onion and vegetables and accompanied by scrambled egg as well as your choice of seafood, ribeye steak, chicken or tofu. It comes over rice and with your choice of a spicy, mild or sweet dipping sauce.

We chose the ribeye option with sweet sauce. The meat was sliced thin and stir fried, then sprinkled with sesame seeds.

The beef back ribs ($15) were as advertised - extremely tender. The spicy sauce is extremely hot. Those sensitive to hot chili are advised to choose another dish.

Other options on the menu the night we were there included a mackerel steak ($16), a black ramen noodle soup with vegetables and ribeye steak ($10), and oxtail soup ($15).

Entrees come with a choice of salad or soup. The basic house salad is mostly lettuce with a creamy dressing. The soup has vegetables and chunks of tofu in a flavorful miso broth. The subtle flavor of portobello mushrooms permeates the soup.

Piquant Cafe takes reservations for lunch or dinner, and reservations are a good idea. The restaurant already has a loyal following and the tables may fill on busy nights.

And if there's a traditional Korean delicacy you crave that you don't find on the menu, be sure to call ahead and make your request. Piquant's menu specifically invites guests to ask for their favorite Korean dish.