Dining review: Fresher-than-fresh fusion at Jason's in Greenbrae

Pacific Rim cuisine, like California cuisine, is a cooking style built with broad brushstrokes. Both represent a medley of flavors and incorporate European, American and Asian techniques. At Jason's Restaurant in Greenbrae, contemporary California meets Asian fusion, and owner-chef Jason Lee keeps a sharp focus on fresh pasta and seafood dishes prepared with impeccable ingredients.

Lee grew up in a restaurant family but went on to formally train at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. He later honed his French technique with Nicasio's Michael Mina at Aqua in San Francisco and mastered Asian flavors at Yabbie's Coastal Kitchen in San Francisco, each restaurant well-known for its way with seafood. After he opened his eponymous restaurant in San Rafael in 2002, Lee brought French and Asian together and threw a bit of Italian into the mix. "We make all the pastas in-house," he says, "except the penne."

So-called healthy fries ($9) were a heaping portion of broccoli and green beans (the healthy part). A crisp tempura coating (the fried part) brought out the vegetable's natural sweetness; the dish was a big hit with our large group. Served in a trio of sake cups, hot shots ($12) featured supremely fresh sushi-grade hamachi topped with a jalapeño round, frizzled ginger and avocado. Singed then cooled, the garnishes never overwhelmed that lovely fish. Coconut mussels ($12), a lively mix of curry, lemongrass and lime, thrummed with a mélange of flavors. I wished for more bread to swipe every drop of that sauce.

Seafood ravioli ($24), stuffed with crab the day we visited, was large, generously filled rounds resting peacefully in an oh-so creamy sauce and topped with frizzled shallots. Friendlier to the waistline, linguini with scallops ($28) was perfectly seared scallops over two-minute noodles, dressed to the nines in a bright Parmesan-flecked pesto over a "grid" of balsamic glaze. Monday's showcase dish, a 2-pound Maine lobster ($38) was beautifully presented on the half shell, but went largely uneaten as it was overcooked and chewy. Back on message, the miso-glazed Chilean sea bass ($28), served with a bit of char on the edges and a soy dipping sauce, hit me with its powerful umami force. I could eat that beauty any day of the week.

Service was attentive but unhurried. A complex martini order was handled with aplomb. Water glasses were never more than half empty. A dish pre-ordered for a late arrival was promptly served. There is a large, mostly American wine list with many offerings in the $40 to $70 range and more than 30 wines available by the glass. This all feels very well-composed.

Jason's, which moved to its current Greenbrae location in 2007, is tucked into an office complex on Drake's Landing and impossible to see from the street or the nearby highway. But the restaurant's discreet location enhances the "get-away" experience. It is peaceful here, especially on the covered patio which has an expansive view of Corte Madera Creek. Inside, there is a snug bar and a large cream-colored dining room that doubles as a banquet room.

The contemporary Californian-Asian fusion cuisine at Jason's tastes more like Pacific Rim cuisine. The juxtaposition of flavors and techniques works well and is right at home in Marin, where our long shoreline certainly places us on the edge of the fusion realm. Call his cuisine what you like, Lee has a way with seafood and a love of pasta. Enjoy them in myriad flavor combinations at this long-running Marin favorite.

Christina Mueller writes about food — restaurants, chefs, products and trends — for local and national publications as well as other industry clients. Send her an email at ij@christinamueller.com.