Diner's Journal

By Bryan Miller

Published: August 31, 1990

Lunch Afloat

Water's Edge at the East River Yacht Club, on 44th Drive and the East River in Long Island City, Queens, has begun lunch-time boat cruises around Manhattan. Appetizers and a cold buffet with drinks, including Champagne, are served. The cruises run from 12:30 to 3:30 P.M. daily and are $100 a person with a minimum of four people. Parties of fewer than four pay a surcharge of up to $100. All major credit cards accepted. Information: 936-7110 or (718) 482-0033.

Scaletta

Scaletta is the type of neighborhood Italian restaurant that should have red-checked tablecloths, a map of the homeland on the wall and maybe a little stucco here and there just for good measure. Instead, this appealing year-and-a-half-old spot on the Upper West Side occupies the expansive, gardenlike setting of the defunct Brazil Brazil.

A recent visit found pastas to be particularly good. The best sampled was the simplest, perfectly cooked capellini with a summery ripe-tomato-and-fresh-basil sauce ($9.95). Fettuccine with salmon in a light tomato sauce with vodka was pleasant, although no evidence of vodka could be detected ($12.75), and spaghetti bolognese was satisfying but not memorable ($10.50). What the menu calls scampi, lightly breaded sweet shrimp in a mild garlic sauce ($16.95), excels. Chicken scarpariello ($13.50), morsels of white meat sauteed with garlic, rosemary, lemon and balsamic vinegar, had a nice sharp-sweet flavor from the vinegar, but the chicken was slightly overcooked. It came with a lightly fried potato fritter. The desserts sampled were sweet and commercial tasting.

Scaletta, 50 West 77th Street (769-9191), serves dinner from 5 to midnight Monday to Saturday, 4 to 10 P.M. Sunday; Sunday brunch is noon to 4 P.M. All major credit cards are accepted.