Groaning Malt

A strong ale brewed for the gossips who attend at the birth of
a child, and for those who come to offer to a husband congratulations
at the auspicious event. A cheese, called the Ken-no, or “groaning
cheese,” was also made for the occasion. (See Ken-No.)

“Meg Merrilies descended to the kitchen to secure her share of the
groaning malt.” —SirW.Scott: Guy Mannering, chap. iii.