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Is my CETME Flash Hider pinned?

Is my CETME Flash Hider pinned? I wanted to change it out for a PWS91 flash hider (if the gun works out) but the sticky only mentions the Century brake being pinned. I really don't want to try and unscrew it if it's pinned and bugger up the threads.

Thanks (in advance) for your responses, guys.

Edit: Wow. Stumped the experts? Perhaps you need a pic of my FH before you can tell me? How can I tell where the pin is without taking a grinder around the whole FH or is there no other way?

Since there are a couple of different types it may or may not be pinned. Mine is threaded and has vents shaped kind of like footballs for holes; I am not an expert on the types that's just what I have.

Mine also has two grooves on the front end that look like they are for a remove/replace tool. It was not on there very tight so I took a small screw driver and put the shaft into the grooves and twisted lefty loosey to remove it. Again that's just my rifle some are pinned and there is a thread about removal somewhere.

The thread is stickied at the top of the CETME/HK forum and shows both the pinned type and the screwed on type. Good luck- I hope it's not pinned.

Flash Suppressors

When the 1994 AWB was in effect, flash suppressors were forbidden on threaded muzzles. However, muzzle brakes and compensators were OK. However, these had to either be blind pinned or silver solder on your muzzle.

How you take your old muzzle device off depends on whether you intend to reuse it or not. If you're not picky, then some careful work with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel would be just the ticket. If you're going to save the old part then you have to determine if it was pinned or soldered. If soldered you'll usually see some evidence of the solder peaking out from between the back of the muzzle device and barrel. However this is not necessarily true. Find in a blind pin is harder and I'd use the Dremel's sanding disk to remove the finish around the back side of the muzzle device for about a 1/2-inch. The pin will usually be obvious once the finish is removed.

A blind pin has to be drilled out or the muzzle device notched with a cutoff wheel so that the pin can be extracted. Silver solder requires that you heat up the device to melt the solder and then unscrew the device.

After the old device is removed, chase the barrel threads -- I believe these are 15x1 metric -- and install your new muzzle device. You do not have to permanently attach it now that the 1994 AWB has self-destructed.

Here is the actual flash hider. I was thinking of not destroying it but if I have no other choice... As you can see, it has a heavy paint job on it and can't really tell if it was soldered or not. It looks clean but can't really tell thru the thick paint.

Mine is the same as the OP, and its worth mentioning that they dont have the retaining clip for some reason. Havent tried taking mine off but its curious why the clip is not there (or the groove for it).

Edit: Im seeing two kinds of Spanish-looking FHs out there, were some clipped and some not?

Here is what I mean, first style with the longer center section and one band, second with two bands. Mine looks like the one on the right, and does not have a retaining pin.

Here is the actual flash hider. I was thinking of not destroying it but if I have no other choice... As you can see, it has a heavy paint job on it and can't really tell if it was soldered or not. It looks clean but can't really tell thru the thick paint.

BTW: Do these have left-hand threads?

Mine is the same as that too - I believe all of the later batch of Cetme's are.

Just curious - what advantage are you hoping to gain with a different type of flash hider? From what I can tell, the original one that is on it does a good job already - I do a lot of shooting in a dingy indoor range and it seems to keep the flash to a minimum across varying ammo types.