Most 214's can be adjusted to run properly
through years of normal use without any difficulty
but there are some movements which can only be
described as over-active. The adjustment of an over-active movement is so tenuous that any external force will cause it to speed up. This
explains why some watches run great on the dresser but too fast when worn while
others will run well for a while until a hard bump causes
them to slip
out of adjustment.

The
bottom of each tuning fork tine was notched at the
factory to set the frequency (photo). A relative few have tuning forks that were
cut to the
lower end of their tolerances. This was OK when the magnets were energized by
1.3 volts, but at 1.5 volts these forks are over-active. This causes them to
index two teeth instead of one either periodically or with every stroke.

Unfortunately, there is no way to know in advance which movements
have this problem. The problem is usually found while adjusting the movement but
it is possible for a very few to slip by undetected.

Previously the only way to correct the problem was to replace the
tuning fork with one
that has thicker tines but the supply of good forks is rapidly decreasing.
Fortunately though, I now have a better way to eliminate the problem. A diode which lowers battery voltage in the circuit by 0.2 volts can be
installed in the coil. This is really the best possible solution.
The watch will perform as it did when new and battery problems will not occur
again. This inexpensive modification is not noticeable and it is reversible.

The micro-thin coil wire used in your 214 is already working against the
ravages of age. Running an over-voltage of .2V through the delicate wire can't
possibly be a good idea. The other delicate components in the circuit will not
benefit either. Even if your 214 runs well with the new batteries, the longevity
of your coil could be at risk. There is no longer any doubt that all 214's will
benefit from a reduction in voltage back to the original 1.35 volts.

Water
EntryBulova was overly optimistic in 1960 when
they first marked the 214 model as "waterproof". Accutron 214's have
always been susceptible to water damage. There are 4 places where water can
enter.

The crystal
The setting stem (crown)
The battery hatch
The back cover

In my opinion, the seal around the plastic
crystal is the main source of water entry. One solid whack is
enough to crack the crystal and lose the seal. A new crystal can solve this
problem but the setting stem is another matter entirely.

The recessed setting stem on the back cover of
a 214 is it's signature feature. The stem assembly has a built-in "O"
ring which can't be replaced without damaging the crown. From
1960 through the late 80's In order to remain "waterproof", Accutrons
received a new crown every five years or so. Since new replacements are no
longer available, the crown remains a weak link for water entry.

The photos above show a progression of five
case backs.

The first is dated 1968 (M8) and is marked
"WATERPROOF".The second photo shows an early 1969
(M9) case
back marked "WATERPROOF".Sometime during 1969 the waterproof stamp
was replaced with "WATER RESISTANT" as can be seen in the third
photo.By the end of 1969 all reference to water
has been removed from the 69 case shown in the fourth photo.As can be seen in the last photo of a
1970 (N0) case back, the words "WATERPROOF" and "WATER
RESISTANT" are conspicuous by their absence.

Because of lagging sales, "WATER
RESISTANT" appears once again on most of the
models made after 1971. (photo right)

In 1969 as 214 sales lagged behind the
newer, more popular 218 models, Bulova introduced a new series of Spaceview
watches which sported wide gray chapter rings. They were very popular and sold
well in 1969 and 1970. Most of these post 69 models have back covers that are
not marked "WATERPROOF" or "WATER RESISTANT".

If you notice moisture in your 214 don't panic. Any watch that has been serviced within the last 5 years still has an oil film on the steel gear shafts.
if outside, use a dime to remove the battery cover and place the watch, battery side up in the sun for approximately 5 minutes (caution: do not allow the watch to become overheated). On cloudy or rainy days, go to an air conditioned place, remove
the battery cover and leave it off long enough for the moisture to evaporate out of the case. Either way, when you close the hatch the humidity in the case will be at an ambient level.

On hot humid days moisture problems are exacerbated by a
sweaty wrist so keep the watch in a pocket or briefcase until you are in a comfortable environment.

This kind of damage is commonly found in
watches that have been exposed to moisture when they have no protective coating
of oil on the jeweled bearings.

These before and after photos show the
bearing shaft of a center pinion gear that has been ruined by corrosion.

BEFORE

AFTER

Photo of the cap jewel with it's rust plugged center hole.

Contrary to popular belief, the grade of
stainless steel used for watch cases will rust over a period of years. Water
gets in between the metal parts where it can stay wet for days and the
inevitable result is shown in the photo of the Astronaut with its bezel removed
at the left.

Corrosion inside of the rotating bezel ring
will eventually weaken the hub which is pressed over the crystal. The hub is
under tension and so it tends to crack at the weakest point.

The
rust on an old bezel ring tends to lock the ring onto the old crystal so it will
generally not fall off even when a crack develops. The problem comes when the
ring is disassembled, cleaned, and an attempt is made to press it onto a new
crystal. At this point the hub will break at the crack and becomes useless.

The
moral of this story is plain. Now that we are in the 5th decade of Accutron
history, please keep your fine old Accutron 214 away from water. After
preserving it for such a long time, it would be a shame to lose it to corrosion
now.

These
photos show a problem that can occur when a battery is installed incorrectly
and then is forced against the plastic battery housing when the battery hatch is screwed down.

TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE COIL, MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE
BATTERY IS SEATED ALL THE WAY DOWN AND FLAT AGAINST THE CIRCUIT BOARD. IF YOU
FEEL PRESSURE BEFORE THE BATTERY CAP IS SCREWED ALL THE WAY DOWN, REMOVE THE CAP
AND RE-SEAT THE BATTERY

When not in use, your 214
should be stored away from high humidity or places where the temperature swings are
wide or frequent. The wire on an Accutron coil is so thin (0.0006"
diameter) that it can easily be broken. Coil wire can become brittle while the
watch is in storage with no battery installed due to repeated expansion and
contraction of the wire over the course of many years. Excessive thermal
expansion and contraction of the coil wire will eventually cause it break..

In this photo, the tuning fork is missing its index
jewel. Both fingers have been lifted away from the wheel for clarity in the
photo. The steel finger that used to hold the index jewel had been grinding
against the index wheel causing damage to the teeth. The index wheel is the
heart of the mechanism. It is a ratchet wheel that is pushed by the vibrating
tuning fork.

The great majority of setting problems are caused
either by over-tightening the back cover, or by a dried out case gasket which
has lost it's elasticity and has been compressed until it has become too thin.
To diagnose/fix this problem the back cover should be loosened until it backs
out of the bezel enough for the setting gear to engage. The 214 back
cover is held on by a threaded ring. The ring has 6 evenly spaced slots for a
spanner wrench. If you have a wrench that works properly, back off the
ring a few degrees and test the setting stem. Repeat this process until the
hands move. If the case gasket is old it should be replaced in order to insure a
good seal.

If your 214 kept decent time right up until the battery was replaced but has
been losing time ever since, the problem is most likely poor battery contact.
This is a fairly common occurrence which can often be avoided (or corrected) by
doing the following:

1) Make certain that the plastic insulator is not hanging
up on the battery nest, preventing the battery from having solid contact with
the coil. After
dropping a battery into your 214s battery compartment, it may appear to be
seated properly even when it is not. Always press the center (metal part) of the
battery down firmly until it seats against the bottom contact. This is necessary
because the plastic spacer is often too large to enter its opening thus
preventing the bottom of the battery from seating all the way down.

2)
Check to see that the contact spring installed on the under side of the battery
hatch has not been flattened. Check to see that the spring
moves down freely when pressed and that it pops back up when released. The
spring must provide positive pressure against the top of the battery.

The very first battery contact spring was a
circular design with three contact fingers protruding inward toward the center
and bent upward to contact the battery.

This design had a nasty habit of losing one
after another of the contact fingers as they became work hardened due to
bending. The fingers often became seriously bent when the battery was not placed
correctly in the battery nest. Attempting to straighten one of these badly bent
fingers usually results in the finger breaking off. Worst of all, the contact
spring is permanently swaged onto the hatch and is not replaceable. Precisely
because of this problem, that design was changed to one that incorporated a
replaceable spring early in 1962.

Back in the day, damaged contact springs
were repaired by installing new hatches. Today, stainless steel hatches with
replaceable springs are available. The supply comes from still plentiful
parts watches but with very few exceptions, solid gold 214 cases are not
scavenged for parts.

Most 214s will start spontaneously when a new battery is installed but some
will not. Over the years the permanent magnets on the tips of your tuning fork
may have lost some of their strength. If this is the case you will need to
jump-start the movement. A sharp smack with the palm or knuckles of your hand at
the 3 or 9 o'clock position should cause the tuning fork to start to vibrate.
Once started the watch will perform normally until the battery dies.

The lugs on gold-filled bezels are easily bent.
The lugs on the above 214 (center and right) are seriously bent inward. Aside
from looking terrible, no standard band will fit between them, but straightening
them is not as easy as it would seem. The problem is that the bezel is made
from a brass base metal which becomes hardened when bent and more often than
not, lugs bent as badly as this will break off while attempting to straighten
them.

To safely straighten bent lugs, the
bezel must first be stress relieved. The process involves heating
the metal until it turns to a dull gray color and then allowing it to cool
slowly. After cooling, the lugs can be moved back to their original factory
configuration. The bezel must then be buffed to remove oxidation,
and restore the gold finish.

When the
dial was manufactured, it was nickel or gold plated and then coated with either a
clear or an amber colored coating. The coating helps to protect the plating from
oxidation. The spotted areas on old dials could be the coating which has
darkened with age but it can also be the plating. As the coating ages, it
becomes crazed, allowing air and moisture to reach the plating below. Often, air
and moisture can penetrate the plating to the base metal and the nickel plating
becomes peppered with tiny bumps which are caused by corrosion blooms beneath
the plating.