"Indian" Fashions...

CHEROKEE FASHIONS

Old Cherokee Cosume Changes Through Time

As we have been trying to tell you, the Mediavel Cherokee were NOT like
other Native Americans. And, perhaps, no where eles is this so clear,
as in their manner of dress.

However, their fashions went through some serious changes, so they
were not always the same. So, let us take a look at them, and see what
was commonly worn, when.

OLD CHEROKEE COSTUME:

The Traditional Cherokee Dress

While there were some similarities with other Native Americans, the
Old Cherokee had developed a distinctive style of dress. And to
categorize it, their fashion would be what modern people call
SEXIST, for the sexes each dressed differently from the other. So, we
will separate the men from the girls, as we detail what was common,
when.

OLD CHEROKEE MEN'S ATTIRE:
Men's attire tended to center around their role as warrior. (And
perhaps, allow them to be able to readily identify who was Cherokee
and who wasn't, in the battles that would take place in the Dense
American Forest.) And, in a sense, they seemed always dressed for
combat (for raids from other Native Americans were all too typical).

HEADDRESS:
Now, most distinctive of the Cherokee Men was their hairstyles. For,
unlike other Native Americans, Old Cherokee would gather their long
hair into one large pony tail, that stood straight up from the top
of their head (woodpecker style). Consequently, in battle, it was
easy to tell who was Cherokee and who wasn't, and even at rather long
distances.

Moreover, rather than wearing their feathers straight up, from the
top of their head, the Old Cherokee wore long ringlets (like
side-burns) down the sides of their face (like Jewish sidelocks) and
would hang their feathers downward from theses.

WARRIOR'S BELT:
The center of the Man's costume was his warrior's belt, which was
a large band of leather that went about his waist. Cherokee Nobles
or NoKaDo would have these belts highly decorated in BEADWORK, and
in a style and design that reflected their Noble Status and
accomplishments--"Indian" Heraldry.

From this belt would be hung a variety of weapons and tools (and
pouches for carrying food and medicines). And attached to these belts
would be long leather leggings, for protecting the legs in travel
through the brush and undergrowth.

FOOTGEAR:
Men's feet were usually covered by leather moccasins, apparently
cut in something of a Viking style. However, in colder weather,
leather boots that went high up the leg were also worn.

BODY ARMOR:
Despite their common warrior status, not much body armor was worn.
Instead, the warriors tended to carry a wooden shield, covered with
thick leather--Viking style.

UNDERWEAR -- MEN'S BREACHCLOUTS:
Now, for our modern Era, it tends to be everyone's own individual
fashion statement: briefs, boxers, or bikinis. Moreover, most Native
Americans wore the breach-blanket, which was a small cloth hung
between the legs and wrapped over the ends of their belts. However,
ALL Old Cherokee Men wore leather bikinis, called breachclouts. (And
in the warm climate, that was often ALL that they wore! And especially
for SPORTS.) Moreover, as the Trade with the British developed, these
gave way to breachclouts of silk and satin (more like modern wrestler
trunks).

COLORS:
While most of the warrior "unifroms" were in drab colors, to make
concealment in the Forest easier, Old Chrokee Men had bright colored
costumes for social gatherings and dances. For, they seemed to enjoy
being the Peacock of the species--strutting their stuff to attract
females! So, these were often highly decorated with feathers and
beadwork.

OLD CHEROKEE WOMEN'S ATTIRE:
Women's attire tended to center around their role as wife and mother.
Thus, they tended to be more "conservative" or modest, and were
much more well-covering than the men's wear.

HEADDRESS:
Old Cherokee women wore their hair VERY LONG. Occasionally, they
would braid it into twin braids. (The single long braid was left to
the Men as a more "civilian" form of their warrior's top-knot.) And,
these braids were often wound up on top or their head, to facilitate
work (in a Viking style).

BELT and HAIRBAND:
In a style similar (but smaller) to their husband's warrior belt,
Cherokee women also wore a belt. And Cherokee Noblewomen would have
these belts highly decorated in BEADWORK, and in a style and design
that reflected the Noble Status of their husband and his
accomplishments.

Moreover, most Old Cherokee Women would also wear a hairband or
or headband made in a similar manner as the above belt (in order to
clearly show to others, who she belonged to--adultery was highly
frowned on).

FOOTGEAR:
In Summer and good weather, Women's feet were covered by leather
moccasins, apparently cut in something of a Viking style--like that
of the men. However, in colder weather (and most of the time) leather
boots that went high up the leg were worn.

BODY ARMOR -- Tunic:
While the women did NOT wear body armor, they were usually well
covered up, in a guarded fashion.

The main body covering was a leather tunic that hung from the
shoulders to just below the hips (mini-skirt style). Married women
would also wear a longer leather skirt, under that tunic, that hung to
about the knees and was slit up the side to the thighs to give greater
leg movement for work. (And, in Winter weather, an even longer skirt
that hung down to the ankles, and was slit up to the knees, was
worn--along with those high boots, for added warmth. And, if it was
really cold, a good blanket or robe of fur was also worn.)

But, maidens were allowed more liberty in showing a bit of
themselves, than was proper married ladies (the reason being to allow
the young brides to be to attract a mate). Thus, shorter sleeves (or
no sleeves) could be worn by them--while married women always wore the
longer sleeve. Consequently, this above tunic or mini-skirt was the
standard attire for marriageable maidens. (Unless it was cold, and
then boots with that mid-length, to the knees, skirt, was worn.)

As a historical note, when the Mini-Skirt Era made its brief
appearance in the late 60s, my mom told me that when she was a little
girl, all the "Indian" maidens wore mini-skirts (and they called them
flappers, as they tended to flap in the wind). But, when the
Religious Whitemen showed up, they made all the girls were long skirts,
even in Summer (which were very HOT for the climate). [So, I guess I
can lament, like Gilligan, that we MISSED the Mini-Skirt Era!)

UNDERWEAR:
Now, it appears that Old Cherokee women also wore some kind of leather
bikini bottom, like the men (but it was covered up, under their
skirts). Moreover, as with the Men, when the Trade with the British
developed, these gave way to ones of silk and satin (more like modern
women's panties).

In addition, it appears that some kind of bikini or halter-top
was also worn under their tunic, to assist in breast support, like
the modern brassiere.

COLORS:
While Old Cherokee Men tended to be the Peacock of the species, wearing
bright colors to attract the female's attention, Old Cherokee women
wore the duller, more drab, and camouflaging colors for their outerwear
(though underwear was often bright colored or at least in contrasting
color to their outerwear.)

MEDIAVEL CHEROKEE UNIFORM:

Old Cherokee Costume Goes European

While the visit of Desoto in the 1530s serves as a demarcation point
between the Early Old Cherokee Period and the Later Old Cherokee or
Mediavel Cherokee Period, not much in the form of fashions seems to
have changed. (Though trade certainly seems to have expanded!)

However, with the arrival of the British (who had a Viking heritage
themselves), many of the Mediavel Cherokee made a strong identification
with British Culture, and consequently, began the adoption of the
popular British attire of the day. Now, this would be the Era of
Shakespearean, and Elizabethan things--as well as the rise of the
French Musketeer Era. Thus, costumes in these styles became more and
more popular, especially among the Cherokee Nobles.

However, the TRADITIONALISTS and many of the common Cherokee tended
to stick with the Old Cherokee Fashions, that we have just described,
above. (And considered it a degredation to dress as Whitemen.)

MEDIAVEL CHEROKEE MEN'S ATTIRE:
For men, this change was quite profound! Men's attire changed from
centering around their role as warrior, to the softer, kinder, image
of the Nobleman, the Statesman, and the Gentleman. (And no doubt
there was a lot of snickering over these new "dandies" and "sissies"
from the TRADITIONALISTS.)

HEADDRESS:
Now, that distinctive Cherokee top-knot of the warriors tended to fade
away. The long single braid (or the Colonial, short pony-tail) coming
along, instead. These were topped by HATS, and usually the
broad-brimmed Musketeer style hats (with the long braid tucked up,
inside). And especially so among the Chrokee Noblemen.

The commoners tended to go with the Mediavel Page Boy look or
cut their long hair as "Round-Heads" did--looking more like modern,
men's haircuts.

Moreover, the wearing of feathers all but disappeared (except for
combat).

WARRIOR'S BELT -- to Tunic:
Apparently, most Men still wore some form of the Warrior's Belt.

But, under this, it became common to wear a Tunic (like a Mediavel
Tunic) that was usually brightly colored and often of silk or satin.
Cherokee Noblemen had these tunics highly decorated with embroidery
and beads (and Musketeer Lace), in a form that matched their Heraldric
Designs. And as time progreessed, the Tunic became more stylish, like
a tailored doublet, giving a more and more European look to the
Mediavel Cherokee.

FOOTGEAR:
The leather moccasins (and boots), were slowly phased out, in favor
of the European style shoe (and boots). And it would seem logical
that the European sandal also mades its appearance here, to make
the hot climate more bearable.

The bare leg of the Old Cherokee warriors was slowly replaced
by the silk stockings and tights of the European Nobiity, which
had been popular since their Mediavel Days. (Yep! Look at the
paintings of America's Founding Fathers, and below their short pants,
you will see that their legs are covered with SILK STOCKINGS! This
was the style of the Dayfor Men.)

And to add a touch of modesty (and to hide the tops of the tights
and/or stockings), the popular, puffy-pants or very short legged
breaches of Shakespear's England, began to be worn, more and more.
(The old leather leggings being now used only in combat or work in the
woods.)

BODY ARMOR:
Again, most comoners did not wear body armor. But, as the Cherokee
Nobles increased in wealth, and armor became available, there were
some who did wear it. But, the rising power of the musket and rifle
demonstrated that this was not such a wise idea. So, it was more a
short lived fad.

UNDERWEAR -- MEN'S BREACHCLOUTS:
Well, as part of Our Regathering Meetings, we sometimes do a
mini-fashion show. And here, this topic has proved to be wildly
controversial! For, as the British trade spread, and softer fabrics
of silks and satins became available, the traditional leather bikini
or breachclout was replaced by silk and satin ones! And, as the Men
were found of wearing bright colors, these were often bursting with
color and decorations, too.

Now this is HISTORY! But, unfortunately, the Far-Right thinkers
of modern America try to say that only Gay Men would wear such things.
Well, I can assure you, that the men of Our Tribe are NOT gay, but
that such attire was common for this historical period. (Just as
America's Founding Fathers ALL wore SILK STOCKINGS! So, were they
Gay then?)

MEDIAVEL CHEROKEE WOMEN'S ATTIRE:
Changing subjects, since Old Cherokee Women's attire was rather
conservative, it tended to change the least. And the new fashions
still centered around their role as wife and mother. As was also
pretty much true of women's fashions in Europe at this time.

HEADDRESS:
Mediavel Cherokee women still wore their hair VERY LONG. Occasionally,
they would braid it into twin braids. (The single long braid was still
left to the Men as a more "civilian" form of their warrior's top-knot.)
And, these braids were often wound up on top or their head, to
facilitate work (in a Viking style).

BELT and HAIRBAND:
The wife's warrior belt, in a style similar (but smaller) to her
husband's warrior belt, seems to have phased out.

But, in its place Mediavel Cherokee Women's hairband became very
popular OR the headband made in a similar manner as the above belt
(in order to clearly show to others, who she belonged to--as adultery
was, indeed, highly frowned on). And British style caps and bonnets,
made with this heraldric design, also seem to have appeared.

FOOTGEAR:
Like Men's footwear, the women's leather moccasins (and boots),
were replace by European shoes (and boots). And more than likely,
the ladies found the European sandal appealing as a relief from the
Summer heat. (Though they were not worn far, as snakes abounded in
the Forest!)

And while silk stockings and tights now becamce available for
women to wear, too, far more popular among women seemed to be the long
cotton stockings or long wollen stockings--to be worn under those long
skirts in Winter--for added warmth!

BODY ARMOR -- Tunic -- To Blyat:
The woman's leather tunic gave way to the more popular Mediavel Blyat
or its Shakespearean and Elizabethan equivalent. (And later to the
fancier Musketeer style women's gowns.) This change was displayed
in both Pocahontas the Cartoon, and the Movie.

The Blyat was a long dress composed of two gowns. The outergown
was long, and well covering (and in the duller, darker, more
camouflaging colors)--though it was usually slit either up the
side or middle to give a peek at the undergown. The undergown was
longer yet, with its sleeves sticking out of the outergown (and a
hint of it appearing at the slits of the outergown, and perhaps,
even below, as it hung out.) Moreover, the undergown was brightly
colored and often fancily decorated (like lingerie). Thus giving men
a slight hint of the pleasures that might be within.

UNDERWEAR:
Now, as with the men, that Old Cherokee women's leather bikini bottom
faded away into ones made of silk and satin.

However, probably due to the cold, this tended to be covered up
by longer petti-pants (like men's breeches, but reaching to the knees)
or even full length pantiloons (to the ankles). [Pants as underwear!]

Moreover, that bikini or halter-top tended to give way to the
more popular bodice (a kind of corsette that was worn on top of
the dress) to keep the breats in place--and then to the formal
corsette, with its supports and stays, under the dress.

In addition, with the longer skirts, came in the popular petticoat,
with all its ruffles and laces. (Making the women appear to be as a
flower about to burst into bloom--and be pollinated. And no doubt,
this image made the Can-Can even more popular, in the Days that were
just about to come.)

COLONIAL CHEROKEE GARMENTS:

Mediavel Cherokee Uniform Gives Way to Colonial Dress

As we hope you remember from Our History Lessons, both the Old
Cherokee and the Mediavel Cherokee passed away in the Plagues of
the 1730s. In its place emerged the Colonial Cherokee. And, this
is the more popular and well known Cherokee, so other sources deal
far better with this topic than I. So, we will let you look it up
with them.

Moreover, with the coming of the Indian Removal Act of 1830s,
and the subsequent Trail of Tears, Colonial Cherokee fell to pieces,
and over the years a Modern Cherokee has emerged. Again, other
sources can far better explain their style of fashion far better than
we can. So, check them out, there.

PACIFIC CHEROKEE DRESS:

The Modern Mediavel Cherokee Hide in Whiteman's Clothing

While most Native Americans have their favorite Time Period that they
want to go back to and DRESS LIKE THEY DID IN THE OLD DAYS, the
Pacific Coast Cherokee have pretty much abandoned all Native Dress,
and wear whatever is popular with the Whiteman's Communities around
them. And, if there is any way that this might be classified, I
would say that Country or the Wild West (and "Cowboy") styles are
probably the most popular and widespread, here.

Now, before you start in criticizing this, let us look at those
Lessons of History. Down through the centuries, Jews were often
made to wear distinctive garments, headress, or symbols that made
them stand out (and thus easy targets for discrimination and
persecution). Consequently, most Jews also opt out to NOT dress
in Traditional Jewish garments, but to wear whatever is current
fashion in the Community where they live. That way, they blend in,
and are not picked on so much. So, I think that wisdom is applicable
to the Pacific Coast Cherokee, too. (There is enough anti-"Indian"
bigotry and discrimination going on--why make yourself a ready target
for it?)

Consequently, while we do encourage Our Members to wear costumes
and uniforms of Our Historical Heritage for Our Gatherings (to make
it more of a Parade and Pagent, for others to come and watch), we
generally allow Our People to wear whatever they want in their regular,
every day life--and in Public. (Though there still is that common
taboo for married women to dress modestly and conservatively.)

MEDIAVEL CHEROKEE CLERGY:

Cherokee Priests Dress Like Levitical Priests

Now, as we have pointed out in other Articles, there is a STRONG
connection between Jewish Heritage and Theology and that of the
Mediavel Cherokee.

And that is plainly seen here, as the Cherokee High-Priests
or Community Bishops dressed in a distinctive ALL WHITE garment,
much as the Old Jewish Levitical Priests used to do. (And today,
for some occasions, some Rabbis still wear the ALL WHITES kind of
garment.) Now, in Old Cherokee Times, this was a long deerskin
robe, that had been bleached or whitened with clay. But, as the
British Trade picked up, these were replaced first by white linen,
and then by white silk type robes. (Something like modern choir
robes.)

UKU'S BRIDAL GOWN:
Consequently, the Uku wore a special form of this, that was styled
more like an "Indian" Bridal Gown, for as the Old Cherokee High-Priest
(and Monarch), he was supposed to be God's Bride on Earth. Then, as
the British Trade brought in more and more new things, this "Indian"
Bridal Gown, was replaced by a more traditional (or "Victorian")
wedding gown type garment (complete with ruffles, ribbons, and lace).
Now, the Traditionalists really howled over this. (Whiteman's
decandance, for sure!) But, if you look at what other Dignataries and
Religious Leaders were wearing at the Time, this kind of gown would be
right in style with the Times. However, today, it seems that those in
the Far-Right are so whipped up by their hyper-homophobia hysteria,
that they only see Gay Men wearing such things. Well, it was Our
HISTORY. So, open your history book for a change--and see what
REALITY really was! Needless to say, we have unending controversy
over this manner of Our Dress, too! But, it WAS the style of Our
People--and Our Ruler.

CONCLUSIONS:

As we have been telling you, the Mediavel Cherokee were NOT like other
Native Americans. The Old Cherokee Costume was distinctly different
from the "Indian" Fashions worn by the other Tribes. And the Mediavel
Cherokee Uniform tended to embrace the Elizabethan and Shakespearean
(and French Musketeer) styles of the 1600s. (Much as the Colonial
Cherokee tended to follow the European styles of the 1700s, later on.)
Therefore, we tend to ask Our People to dress in Costumes and Uniforms
of the Time Period of the Mediavel Cherokee, for Our Regathering
Meetings and Festivals (to provide a Pagent and Spectacle for others
to come and see). But, in everyday like, Our People tend to follow
the popular attitude of Pacific Cherokee Dress, and to wear whatever
everyone else in the Community is wearing.

CONTACTS:

Well, not everything the Old Cherokee taught were Myths or Legends
(or blonde babes in bikinis--i.e. Azomaria). There were some pretty
good Bible Stories too!

Judeo-Christian Teachings

So, then, just what did the Old Cherokee teach? And how much of it
was Judeo-Christian? Well, we don't know exactly, and only by second
hand--from what others wrote about it. However, for Our Tribal
Membership Course, we have tried to collect and assemble the Main
Teachings or what we call Our CORE CULTURE into a series of lessons
for Our JChIN Program. If you are interested, that a look at
The ANI SYLLABUS.
Navigation Bar:

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

1. Much of the information on the Early or Mediavel Cherokee comes
from the book THE CHEROKEE PEOPLE--The Story of the cherokee People,
from Earlest Origins to Contemporary Times; by Thomas Mails, published
by the Council Oak Books of Tulsa, Oklahoma, 1992 (where Payne, Adair,
Butrick, and Haywood are extensively quoted).

2. Supplemental information supporting Mail's work may be found
in HISTORY OF THE CHEROKEE INDIANS and Their Legends and Folk Lore;
by Emmet Starr which was orginally published in Oklahoma City in 1921
but was reprinted by the Genealogical Publishing Co, Inc. of
Baltimore, Maryland in 2004.

3. Several other modern books on the Cherokee give mysterious
hints and clues to this hidden Hebrew-Viking-Cherokee origination.

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