Duck Tchoupitoulas @ Tommy’s

Duck Tchoupitoulas @ Tommy’s

In an era when most duck dishes consist of either the grilled breast or the confit of leg, the duck at Tommy’s is unusual in being a half duck, still in one piece. It’s roasted to a crisp skin and a tender interior and fills a plate grandly. Also on there is a slightly sweet, slightly peppery sauce sharpened with vinegar and raspberries. The whole thing is underlined with fresh spinach, and there’s wild rice on the side. In other words, it’s the kind of duck dish that was almost universal twenty years ago. It’s great to know a few places that still roast duck that way. Tommy Andrade’s excellent Creole and Italian restaurant is the best restaurant for this that I know.

This is a variant of Tommy’s duck served at Tomas Bistro, owned by the same people and cooked with a similar style, all right across the street.

Tommy’s. Warehouse District: 746 Tchoupitoulas. 504-581-1103.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.