Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors, Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f )The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up

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'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'Best thing I ever overheard"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"Brian Morgan, 1982

Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors, Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f )The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up

I used EX500 rotors which are even lighter. It's still unnecessary weight, when one rotor and a dual pot caliper provide plenty of stop.

Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors, Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f )The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up

we have a cx500 sitting around so that may be a better way to go. the 350 will be more of a bobber and focused on looks rather than performance (i know i know) but I'm doing a lot of performance stuff to this bike already... I probably should have swapped the two bikes around actually

im gonna attempt the port job myself with a dremel, i've done it before on a set of Honda SOHC 4cyl heads from a car - so I sorta know what i am doing here. may take a while with a rotary tool but i dont have access to a compressor so that's what i get

Early 35mm CX500 forks with dual rotors, Much lighter than 70's set-up plus more than adequate on a 350/360 (or even a 400 f )The dual disc conversion I did on my XS650 used 'single rotor' rotors as they were larger diameter than the dual rotor set up

also, choice between larger intake valves - or getting a new set of standard valves from say common motor and use the money saved to get barnett clutch discs instead of EBC ones ?

im gonna attempt the port job myself with a dremel, i've done it before on a set of Honda SOHC 4cyl heads from a car - so I sorta know what i am doing here. may take a while with a rotary tool but i dont have access to a compressor so that's what i get

You would be a lot better off getting te Harbor Freight Tools electric die grinder and a router speed controller. With 20% off coupon it will be a lot cheaper(particularly if you ave any 1/4" shank burrs)

I would use stock clutch discs with heavy duty springs. Nothing wrong with EBC, I've used them 'forever (European Brake Corporation -I'm British) Unless the original discs are actually damaged or worn below minimum thickness, just re-use them. The springs are almost always the problem. ( so far, I've never replaced clutch discs in any of my 360/378's) I would get the oversize intake valves, you don't need oversize exhausts

« Last Edit: Feb 02, 2018, 17:02:11 by crazypj »

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'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'Best thing I ever overheard"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"Brian Morgan, 1982

I made the plunge and chopped off the rear shock mounts. This was necessary because no matter what seat I use (this or the tuffside, or the dime city "brass cafe") I didnt want the hoop so far back over the wheel (another reason I chose the longer CJ swingarm)

gonna weld slugs for new shock mounts, just not sure if I want to weld them to the frame tube, or create and weld them to a flange.

pre-cleaning. Anyone got a recommendation for sending heads out for valve seat work and installing new guides? I think the guy I have locally will do it for $250 which I really dont want to have to buy the tools as much as i want to do some things myself, even the installation of guides will require tools I don't have

Since I plan to port the head I think I should also do this BEFORE I get service done, right?

Not sure if you got an answer to this, but have you determined that the guides actually need to be replaced? Honda valve guides typically don't show a whole lot of wear. You can do a quick and dirty check by checking to see how much side play the valves have. If the valves are good and not worn on the stems, you may be OK to just get the valves and seats cut on a SERDI machine. A good machine shop guy should be able to determine the amount of play there.

Not sure if you got an answer to this, but have you determined that the guides actually need to be replaced? Honda valve guides typically don't show a whole lot of wear. You can do a quick and dirty check by checking to see how much side play the valves have. If the valves are good and not worn on the stems, you may be OK to just get the valves and seats cut on a SERDI machine. A good machine shop guy should be able to determine the amount of play there.

Thanks! the Machine shop told me that I shouldn't need to replace the guides. I was simply wanting an upgrade to the entire engine - through his experience I have come to the conclusion that the bronze guides aren't an upgrade anyway (He told me Honda used Iron for a reason) so I'm happy that I can save about $100 there. decided to spend that on 35mm intake valves

Personally I prefer Neway to Serdi. Serdi is faster but somewhat limited to the available cutter plus sizes are 'fixed' in the cutter blade ($90.00 per cutter last time I checked in 2009)Neway are crazy expensive ($200+ each) but cover such a wide range it kinda evens things out when you doing 'special' sizes/cuts/angles plus you can mix & match They are a lot slower to use though which makes a lot of difference when your paying someone else to do the work

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'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'Best thing I ever overheard"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"Brian Morgan, 1982