Guest post: Montis hack

Today, I will show you how to slightly hack the Montis bodice to get view A on the back (three straps) and to have single layer of fabric. I read in the Sofilantjes group that some kids sweat in two layers of fabric, so the Montis option B is perfect for those (single layered), but with this hack they can also wear option A. You need elastic bias for this hack, you can either buy it, or make your own (what I did). If you make your own, you cut a 4 centimeter wide, long strip of good quality jersey. For this post I assume that you know how to sew on a home made jersey bias (if you do not check the instructions on your Iridis pattern).

Measure, based on your pattern pieces how much bias you will approximately need. You can either use a flexible measuring tape or a piece of wool. You will need to follow the entire top line of the bodice plus strap one and strap two. You should slightly stretch the bias while sewing it on, I therefore strongly advice to only use this hack if you have a model on which you can finalize the last step of determining strap length. You can subtract seam allowance, but it is not crucial because you will make it fit your model anyway. Cut a separate piece of bias for strap 3.

Sew the bias (good side on good side) to your bodice from the mark that you made in the previous step (with the one centimeter folded under), slightly strength the strip while sewing (yes I know that is vague, but after sewing some bias you will just know how much you have to pull). Sew along the entire top line of the bodice, all along the back and to the other side of the shoulder where your started. The entire top of the bodice should now be sewn.

Take your strip three and fold it into a finished bias (so four layers of fabric and sew it closed. Use clips to put strap three in place (use the dots of the pattern piece). Now fold the entire bias from the dress like you did in for strap three. Where the bias is sewn on the dress, the dress is a fifth layer in between the bias. Now close the entire the bias strip, including the pieces hanging down from the bodice (they will form strap one and two). While you finish the bias you also sew strap three to the dress.

Put the unfinished dress on your model. Now determine the length of strap one and two (the straps hanging from your dress) either mark the optimal length or cut them to the right length. Keep in mind that you need at least one centimeter extra length to fixate it to the dress on the back. Sew once over the previously made seam (only there where the straps should be fixated) to fixate strap one and two to the dress. Continue with the skirt.

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