Learning to Surf: Exercise and Nature

When we moved to Nicaragua it quickly became evident I needed to learn to surf. It’s too hot to hike regularly and although I can kind of satisfy my daily need for movement with yoga it means I’m doing yoga for exercise instead of keeping it as a mindful practice. And I dislike the gym. And really…. when you are surrounded by the ocean and it’s the kind of ocean that produces perfect waves for surfing it’s a bit silly not to surf.

But the first time I went surfing some 8 or 9 years ago I was hopeless. I didn’t get up. Not even once. Not even nearly. And the crashing waves were scary. I didn’t bother trying again.

Fast forward to deciding to live by the ocean in a hot country I realised I needed to get over my fear of large waves, sharks, and what I perceived to be the too cool for school surfer attitude. So I found a teacher and went out surfing. And I loved it. My fear of waves fell away quickly as I learnt to dive under them or turtle roll. I discovered bizarrely with my surf board I wasn’t afraid of sharks. And I liked 99% of the cool surfer guys I met.

I love exercise that’s outdoors and combines learning about nature with intensity of movement. Out surfing you see fish splashing at the surface; butterflies skimming the water; you learn to read the waves way out and watch the way they crash on the rocks to know when to paddle out or when to catch a ride; once I saw whales; once I was surrounded by an apocalyptic frenzy of thousands of sea birds above and thousands of tiny splattering fish below; sometimes you see the fins of sting rays as they ride in the waves.

It’s such a gift to be in the environment around us.

My best movement recommendation: Get out and find a teacher and learn a new skill. It’s great to have a coach to learn something properly. It’s fun to check out what’s on offer in your area (city or country it doesn’t matter)… dance, swim, hike, ski, bike…. move your body.