I downloaded the firmware, but I cannot try it yet since I dont have the RAMPS. There's only the Printed parts missing to do the build! I'll still need the mirror and RAMPS to print! Can't wait!! Shipping from Hong Kong seems very fast lately !

I've notice that in the firmware, there's a lot of configurations. Since I'm new in this, I'm not sure what to place in all settings. Could you provide me with your setup? I may not use it as a copy/past, but maybe refert to it if it's not working. I may ask questions about the difference also if you dont mind helping me!

Thank you for design and sharing. Your design is very nice engineered. I would like to build on your design but I would like to do some changes, so, is it possible to provide igs or step files of the parts?

Thank you for design and sharing. Your design is very nice engineered. I would like to build on your design but I would like to do some changes, so, is it possible to provide igs or step files of the parts?

Hi Zoltan

I do all my design work in Sketchup but I am currently building printers for sale. I don't mind sending the odd file but would rather keep control of the complete design originals. Hope you understand. It's not that difficult to load a .stl file into a design package actually.

Thank you for answer. I was not aware about the fact you sell printers. I understood the point. I am working in SW and Catia and I do not know Schetup, this is the reason I asked about igs or step files. I can do the redesign by measuring stl and redoing the part in SW/Catia but I would like to cut the long way. The STL can not be modified neither in SW nor in Catia or at least I did not discover the way. Anyway, I like your design, and I think it is very intelligent. For me I would like to convert it for Nema23 motors (I have a lot from scrap printers), and the position on top instead of bottom, and to implement 2 hot ends together with z probing done by hot end instead of one.

I can send you the Sketchup file for the NEMA 17 motor mount. I would be wary of moving the motors to the top though. The last thing you want on a delta is weight at the top causing he frame to flex. Even with just the top vertices and bearing idlers there is flex using 2020 extrusion. I would stick with bottom mounted motors and modify the bottom mount to suit the bigger motors. If you didn't have them spare I would also suggest that NEMA 23s are overkill for his application .

Solidworks can import STL files as long as there aren't more than 20,000 facets. You click open then choose file type "STL" then select options and check off "open as solid body". Solidworks defaults to importing STL's as graphics bodies so you can't do anything with them unless you open them as a solid body or a surface body.

I routinely open printer STL parts in SW. I haven't found a printer part file yet that's more than 20,000 facets. The part files are dumber than dumb geometry (IGS, STP) etc in that they maintain the faceted look and it takes some work to manipulate and use STL files in SW. It's not ideal but it does work.

Andy, forgive my laziness but I haven't looked at your thingiverse thing for this machine yet so I don't know what licenses you have on the files. Can I use your effector design and modify it for use on a 3DR simple? I like the fact that you've used the nozzle as your probe.

Please feel free to use and modify any of my .stl files. If you would like the .skp for the effector just PM me. It's the complete set of machine originals I want to keep private. I've no issue with the odd part file being out in the wild.

Thanks, Andy. I'll just use the stl file for ideas on how to best modify the 3DR simple effector. I'm using solidworks so sketchup files won't do me much good. I can appreciate not wanting all of your source files available.

@umdpru - Actually, I posted an answer before but it seems that it did not post. Thank you for advice. I tried in the past to do it through SW as you mentioned in your post but I got a lot of facets and I did not know how to manipulate them. I would appreciate if you would give me some tips regarding the next steps in the process.

@zoltan: Hope I wont sound rude cause It's not what I mean. What your asking as notthing to do with 3D Printer, but rather 3D Design. There's a lot of tutorial on the web for SketchUp or other software. You should make a search about it. You'll learn how to design in 3D, what to do, what to avoid. When it's done, you'll need to search tips for 3D Printer, there will be some tips that will help you think about a design that will print well.

@ nka - Thank you for advice. Actually, you are not rude or at least I do not consider this but it seems that you did not read the whole discussion. I have asked Andy if he has igs or step files of his printer as I would like to build his printer but with some modifications and I would like to avoid reconstruct/redesign each part in SW or Catia. I am a user of SW, Catia and Inventor. Unfortunately for me he has only the schetup files, but Umdpru mentioned that he is able to modify stl files in SW. I tried in the past this procedure but I was unsuccessful to complete the modifications. Also, my checks on the internet did not return any information about manipulating the facets of body resulted from opened stl in SW, and this is what I asked Umdpru if he can help me with advice how to get further. However, if Umdpru would share his knowledge about stl conversion/modification in SW I am pretty sure a lot of people would benefit in building/improve their 3d printers as usually the 3d printer parts are published/shared as stl. If you check on internet there are tens of discussions about modifying the stl through SW but there is no conclusion on.

I've pulled the trigger and begun amassing parts to build one of these bad boys. Andy, I'm really excited about what you've done here!

And, like you zoltan, I've got the hair-brained plan of using NEMA 23s instead of NEMA 17s. I realize it would be much easier to just buy the 17s, but the 23s were a gift and the whole project blossomed from an effort to do something cool with them.

As far as modifying the STLs is concerned, It's easy enough to import the STLs into Sketchup (it just requires a plugin, and it's all free), and you can then change everything about them from there.
I've spent some time doing modifications, and while I have something I'd like to try out, I'm not certain that it will be convenient for anyone but me.

I am not a Sketchup whiz. My go-to tool is OpenSCAD, and if I find myself changing anything else, I'll likely just redo the whole part there, because I found it very frustrating trying to modify the imported STL without breaking all types of manifold.

Anyway, here's what I've done:
In order to fit the bigger motor, I had to pull the mounting face in by 10mm. I also had to make the whole thing taller, and extended the foot to compensate. I moved the holes for tool access, and am concerned that one will impede with a screw head, but I'm not changing the [email protected]#$ thing at this point. And depending on the order I build it in, it may or may not pose a problem. Note that the 10mm move of the motor could impact the alignment of the belt with everything else.

My motors have a bigger gear already on them--almost exactly the size of a 608 bearing. So I changed the top bracket, pulling the bearing inboard by 3mm to help alignment and enlarging the hole to fit a M8 bolt. I'll be using fender washers and a skateboard bearing to hold the top together, I think.

Since I've pulled things inboard, I lengthened the belt mount on the Rod Carrier, in hopes that I can catch the belt there. The location is still wrong for my wider belt setup, but moving it would get in the way of the screw mount. So I figure I'll tackle that more once I've seen if the NEMA 23 mount will work.

In regard to enlarging the hole in the top vertex to take an M8 bolt for your 608 bearing you may run into an issue. My design uses an M5 bolt through the hole and into a T nut in the tower to fix the top vertex to the tower. You will need to fix it some other way if you go with M8. This bolt also carries my two flanged 16mm bearings to form the top idler.

QuoteAndyCart
My design uses an M5 bolt through the hole and into a T nut in the tower to fix the top vertex to the tower.

Interesting. That's not evident looking at the STLs; there's a wall at the end of the hole there. But I could see how that would make it more rigid.

QuoteAndyCart
This bolt also carries my two flanged 16mm bearings to form the top idler.

So if I understand this correctly, you have two flanged bearings side-by-side, with the narrow parts together. This is where the belt sits. Is that right?
If that's the case, I might go back to M5 and see if I can find something flanged with bigger diameter.

So do you have any other hardware up there with the bearings, like a nut or spacer or something? Or do the bearings just wedge in without any extra space, with the whole thing being held by a T-nut?

Is there any way you could add pictures to your Thingiverse entry with some bottom-up images? I can only guess at what you've got going on up in there.
(Forgive me if this information is already somewhere within the earlier two iterations of the printer. It's hard to keep track of which parts of which printer made it to the next iteration and which didn't.)

And thanks for the quick feedback!

-Mason

P.S. While I'm at it, would it be worth making note on the BOM that the SCHS screws that you mill probably shouldn't be stainless steel? Not so magnetic, that stuff.

All, with regards to modifying Andy's design - I would get permission from him. Also, I believe it's a part of the licensing to make modified files available under the same licenses? I don't know much about open source licensing admitedly.

I'm away on vacation for a couple of weeks so can't upload any images. But you are correct. The two flanged bearings have their non flanged faces together to form a channel for the belt. I've previously tried one bearing between two large washers but it's surprising how much friction there is between the washers and the edges of the belt. Flanged bearings are much better. The sequence for the top idler is straightforward.
1. Drill through the bolt path with a 5mm drill to size the two holes correctly and remove the wall on the inside of the square for the extrusion
2. Slide an M5 washer onto an M5 45mm SHCS
3. Insert the SHCS into the hole in the stretcher
4. Place two flanged bearings, oriented as described above, one M5 washer and one M5 nut onto the bolt.
5. Turn the nut to allow enough room to let the bolt tighten into the T nut at the top of he tower
6. Tighten the nut to clamp the two bearings and washer against the stretcher.

This arrangement allows one bolt to carry the bearings with support at both sides to stop flex and also secures the top vertex to the tower securely to enable your belts to be tensioned tightly.

You will probably have your machine built by the time I get home but if not I will post some images.

QuoteAndyCart
I'm away on vacation for a couple of weeks so can't upload any images.

Holy cow, man! Thanks for being so responsive while on vacation! Now quit talking to me and go enjoy yourself.

I'll probably change that top bracket back to M5 but still extend it out to help align with my silly NEMA 23s. (Honestly I'm really tempted to just buy NEMA 17s and hope my benefactor doesn't notice different motors.)

And as far as licensing and modifying your design: I apologize if I've stepped on any toes. Please let me know if I should remove or change anything. It looks like I've got the Thingiverse files licensed the same as yours, and I honestly didn't give a second thought to putting my Sketchup files on there. Just a matter of habit. If you want me to pull them I will.

QuoteAndyCart
You will probably have your machine built by the time I get home

I'm not so sure of that. When it comes to actually building things, my minutes are stolen while my family sleeps at night. We'll see, though!