Training Tips

Training Tips

Taught with a lure:

Aim: to get your dog to spin in an anti-clockwise direction at your left hand side (twist) or in a clockwise direction at your right hand side (spin)

Start with the dog in the heel position on your left or right

With the treat in the hand which is the same side as the dog, lure the dog’s head away from you and out to behind the hip on that side

At the same time step forward with the leg furthest from the dog

Continue the luring movement bringing your hand near to your side and forward so that the dog turns full circle and ends up back in the heel position

At the same time step forward with the back leg so that you both end up as you began

From Annette Lowe and her Border Collie, Flash

Spin in Front (Clockwise)

You will need a treat in your right hand

Your dog needs to stand in front of you, facing you

With the treat in your right hand, lure your dog in a small clockwise circle until s/he is facing you again

Give the treat

Tip: If your dog is having difficulty turning through a complete circle, have 2 treats in your hand. Give one treat when your dog has completed part of the turn, and the second treat when s/he has completed the full turn

Stage 2

Encourage your dog to follow your hand to make the turn but reward with a treat once s/he has completed the turn and is facing you again

With your dog in front of you, lure with your left hand around behind and bring round in front with your right hand. Add the command of CIRCLE.

From Sarah Cowan and her Golden Retriever, Dazzle

Another way to achieve the figure of eight round the handler’s legs

Stand with your legs apart and with your dog in front of and facing you

Show your dog the treat

Throw the treat gently between your feet, behind you and to the left

As the dog moves to the treat and eats it, lean back slightly to the left and use your left hand to guide your dog round to the front position again

Praise and reward

Repeat throwing the treat between your feet again but this time aim to the rightAs the dog moves to the treat and eats it, lean back slightly to the right and use your right hand to guide your dog round to the front position again

Praise and reward

From Kerry Lancaster and her Beagle, Poppy

Taught with a clicker

Balance- your dog sitting into his haunches with the front paws lifted. This method is suitable for a larger breed of dog, e.g. gun dogs

Start with your dog sitting and you standing behind and astride his back. Click and reward (C&R) for remaining in the sit position

Lure the dog’s head up and slightly back with a titbit until his front feet start to lift off the ground. C&R

Hold a titbit a little higher so your dog reaches up and lifts his front feet off the ground for a couple of seconds. C&R. (Stand close enough behind so your dog can lean on you to give him confidence).

Continue at this stage until your dog’s muscles are strong enough to enable him to balance for a few seconds without leaning on you.

Introduce your cue word, e.g. balance, before you lure him to lift his head

Move to the side of your dog and repeat the earlier stages

When perfect, move to the front. Cue and lure your dog into the balance position with your hand. C&R each stage of teaching.

Some long backed breeds of dogs should not be taught this move, e.g. Basset Hounds, Dachsunds, etc.

From Lesley Brocklehurst and her Flat Coat Retriever, Jester

The weave under the handler’s legs

Click-reward for moving forward to touch a finger

Click-reward for following a finger

Click-reward for following a finger through a turn. First the left side, then the right side, then in front. Throw in a softly spoken verbal cue, e.g. left or right

At an early stage alternate between targeting a finger and targeting a stick. Use the above method to encourage the dog to follow a finger through the legs. First through the leg to the left side, then later to the right side.

At this early stage remain static. Leave the walking weave until later. As Newfoundlands are giant dogs, two problems might be encountered.

Your legs are not long enough. Don’t give up. Stand up straight and compromise by lifting one leg up. With a sufficient lure the dog will soon make the effort to pass through, even lowering itself to pass under

A dog that is nearly four feet long may take some time to pass through. This could look ungainly if you try to walk forward at anything like a normal pace. So compromise and move a little to the side.

From David Lamb and his Newfoundland, Holly

The Bow — using a target stick

Teach your dog to touch the end of a Target Stick with his nose by scenting the end with food. C&R every time your dog’s nose touches the end of the stick

With your dog standing, place the end of the TS in front of his nose and move it down between his front legs

Your dog will lower his head to touch the end of the stick and his shoulders will dip too. C&R the small bending movement. Repeat many times.

Take the TS right to the floor between your dog’s feet. As he bends down to touch it, C&R the instant his elbows reach the floor and before he drops into the down. You may need to practise for weeks

When your dog is proficient at his, introduce your verbal cue “Bow” before you put the end of the TS between your dog’s front feet.

When he responds to the verbal cue, remove the TS

From Lesley Brocklehurst and her Flat Coat Retriever, Jester

Roll over, always from the down position

The conformation of some breeds makes them unsuitable for this move, e.g. Whippets, Greyhounds, etc.

Always ensure your dog is in the down position before asking for this move

With a target stick, move your dog’s nose in a small circular movement towards the dog’s right shoulder — your dog will shift his weight onto the left hip. C&R. Repeat as necessary

Move the TS (and the dog’s nose) nearer the dog’s right shoulder. Your dog will shift his weight again and will now be lying flat on his left side with his head raised and turned. C&R this success. Repeat as necessary.

Move the TS (and the dog’s nose) from the right shoulder area, in a continuous arc movement, over the dog to the other side of the dog. The dog will move onto his back and over onto his right side. C&R.

For the dog’s safety, even when this move has been perfected, always start this movement in the DOWN position.

From Annie Clayton and her Working Sheep Dog, Brock

Pivot in the left heel position

Start with the dog standing in the left heel position, both of you facing forward.

With the clicker and treat in your right hand, hold it in front and about 2 feet higher than his head in order to attract his attention

Either place your left hand on your left side in its normal cue position for left hand heelwork, or gently hold his collar to maintain the ‘head adjacent to your leg’ position

With your weight on your left leg, swivel your body through about 10 degrees anti-clockwise at the same time giving your left heel verbal cue

Click and reward for any sideways movement of the dog’s back feet

You may initially need to swivel through about 45 degrees in order to stimulate him to move. Once he starts to understand the action, you should reduce your rotation and start to gradually build it up using the clicker to mark the correct position each time.

If he has difficulty bringing his rear end into position parallel to your body then you could use a barrier, such as a wall, on his outside flank.

From Margaret Booth and her Tervueren, YoYo

Heelwork with the head up trot

Teach your dog to touch your hand with his nose

With your dog on left side, hold a titbit between the fingers of your left hand, clicker in your right hand