Hopefully someone will want it to fix up the roof - the canvas is fine, we had the axel & wheels replaced last year, and it's all been painted & had new cushions on the inside! Obviously as newbies when we bought it, we didn't know what we were looking for... The ceiling was always a little bubbly, but oh my goodness.

There is a wood repair epoxy product by JB weld that looks like a tootsie roll. It’s two colors and you knead it till it’s a uniform color and about like window putty. Not knowing your exact situation if you can pack the putty into the rotted areas once they are dry and let it set for a couple of days it does an excellent job of holding screws. Might get you by till you can find your dream egg. You can get it at Walmart. Where else?
Iowa Dave

Screws don't hold in rotten wood. Either replace the wood, or try an epoxy product like recommended above.

As far as an egg trailer, cash in hand, be flexible on brand, and realize that there are more buyers out there than sellers. Depending on the price range, molded fiberglass trailers sell in hours. I sold our last one in four hours, bought two both on day 1 when they were for sale. And some of the molded trailers out there will need work too.

The good thing about eggs that need work -- the work really helps to get a handle on what they are all about. And since a repair or rebuild, if you have the skills, actually makes it fit better the way that you camp. Lots of ideas here. But as said before -- have the cash ready, be ready to jump fast, and have a good idea of what you want, and what you need, and what you want to spend.

The downside of trailers that need work is renovations end up costing twice as much and taking three times as long as you expect. Or was it three times the cost and twice the time?...

Seriously, as a rule it's almost always better to buy the best you can find and afford. If necessary, stretch your budget a little and add to your "nest egg" while you search.

Expect to spend $5-8K for an older but mostly camp-ready, basic Scamp or similar. Expect to invest more in routine maintenance, such as resealing of windows and vents, tires, brakes & bearings, wiring, etc. Beware of rotten subfloors, sometimes hidden under shiny new flooring by unscrupulous sellers, and rusted/cracked frames.

I’m with Jon. Not only are projects a lot of work, they are best suited for someone with the time and covered workspace. I almost bought a project last year (I like projects). The advantages to me are I already have a camper so it doesn’t keep me from camping and I have high height garage space where I can do the work.

Ultimately I talked myself out of it. Trailer actually had s good solid floor!, but it needed a lot of fiberglass repair, window work, interior work, and possibly frame replacement.

There also are other wood repair products that are more like mixing bondo in auto body repairs. Several companies make them including Plastic Wood and JB Weld. I like them because they are a little more fluid than putty which means that it can be forced into crevices in the wood better. But before that filler is applied there also is another product which can be used that is a wood petrifier It penetrates and hardens any partially rotted wood that might remain adjacent to the repair after the badly rotted wood has been removed. I have used both products together and can report that they work very well. https://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Produ...FYuAYgod8AYE3Q

Repairs using this filler can also be anchored better by drilling little roots into good wood using a drill motor with an 1/8" bit or a like sized dremel tool. They don't have to be very deep. When applying the filler, be careful to force the material into the "root" openings. This will give the body of the repair a mechanical anchor in addition to the chemical bond provided by the filler.

Gee. After a morning of removing a smashed vent cover from our tent
Trailer and spending forever putting the new one in (oh hi, rotted and badly patched roof ),I want an upgrade pronto.

Around the vent is so bad I donít know how Iím going to get the screws back in from the inside...

I feel your pain. Several years ago several of us went to put the old stickie Iíd been given back up on its blocks. When we got to the left front corner, the bottom started up as the top stayed down... the corner just ďaccordionedĒ in place!

Within a week I was planning a trip from Lynchburg, VA to Round Lake, IL to buy my Burro. Never regretted it even a little.

I'll add this because you mentioned fixer upper egg.....if that roof vent is really torturing you now...fixer upper might not be the way. Sometimes they'll require different skills to mend things.
Examine youur purchase carefully and bring someone along that can advise on what's needed and doable for you.

Yeah, I think Iím done with fixer upper anythingís for now - I feel there may be an armadillo in my future (like next year once weíve saved some $ future!) We live in BC and theyíre just down the road!