The year of our Lord 2013 was the first year for Hike Mt Shasta and it proved to be a great start. Hopefully the site encouraged a lot of people to get out and explore the amazing landscapes of the greater Mount Shasta area. This part of California is blessed with tremendous diversity and incredible beauty. Rather than try to offer the best images of 2013 or list of highlights, I thought it would more interesting to focus on the wonderful variety throughout the year.

January: OK, this image is actually from New Year’s Eve in 2012, but I grandfathered it into 2013. I love the view of Mount Shasta from the Shasta Valley. Add a fantastic lenticular cloud and it can’t get much better.

February: Hedge Creek Falls is best in winter and spring, especially when the high country is covered in snow. This is a great hike for kids or if just pressed for time.

March: The temperature in Pluto’s Cave is the same throughout the year, which is great during the freezing temperatures of winter. The high desert above the cave also makes for interesting winter hiking.

April: With warmer temperatures and the snow usually clear at the lower elevations, the Castle Crags offers fantastic spring hiking. The waterfalls are graced with strong flow and the views of icy Mount Shasta are fantastic.

May: Spring is a great time to take advantage of the excellent trail along the McCloud River. This area has an air about it that hints at higher country but is quite accessible in the spring.

June: Just across the Trinity Divide from Mount Shasta lie the Trinity Alps, the North State’s largest wilderness. It also happens to be one of the most spectacular mountain regions in the country. June is often the perfect time to explore the Trinties. The snow is melting, the creeks are full, and cascades abound on the rugged peaks and canyons.

July: It is often easy to take the stunning lakes of the Trinity Divide for granted. It is a shame many of these jewels get overlooked. For those who explore them, craggy cliffs and abundant wildflowers await.

August: The eighth month of the year is often hot and smokey and August 2013 was no different. Even so, there many opportunities to hit the trail and enjoy the spectacular scenery.

September: Even though it is still summer, September delivered a decent snow on Mount Shasta. It did not last, but it was satisfying to see the mountain cloaked in white again.

October: Autumn colors are abundant in the Mount Shasta area. One of the best and loneliest places to enjoy the colors is in the Klamath River Canyon.

November: The coming of the cold season means November typically has great lenticular cloud displays. 2013 was no exception.

December: The last month of 2013 started off with freezing temperatures and some snow, which always makes for beautiful conditions on Mount Shasta. The heavy winds stripped the mountain bare again and we are still waiting for more snow…

I hope everyone is able to get out more in 2014 and explore new trails and enjoy old favorites!

Having written about the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek, I thought it worth mentioning how I found that particular spot. It is not a particularly secret spot but neither is it advertised or is visitation encouraged. Still, it remains one of my favorite spots in the Mount Shasta area. It is certainly my favorite spot along the Sacramento River below Lake Siskiyou. However, as much as I love the confluence, I will always think of it with a hint of disappointment. This is not because there is anything intrinsically disappointing about it. On the contrary, it has all the great features one could hope for in a mountain idyll: roaring river, crashing creek, noisy cataract, expansive boulder field and a soaring and infinitely complex cluster of granite spires.

The painting at the Forest Service office.

My first journey to the confluence began at the Forest Service’s Mount Shasta District office. The building was once the headquarters for the Shasta National Forest before said forest was combined with the Trinity National Forest to form the Shasta-Trinity. Following the merger the headquarters was moved down to Redding and the facilities in Mount Shasta were downgraded in status. Still, a few of the trappings from the days when more authority inhabited the walls of the district office remain. Chief among these is a fantastic three-dimensional map of the Shasta National Forest. It gives a great sense of the scale and geography of the mountains in this area. Anyone who has not checked it out ought to do so. While enjoying the map a few years ago a painting near the map caught my eye. What was depicted in the painting was a scene of alpine glory that would be difficult to surpass. At the bottom was what was obviously the Sacramento River. Above the river rose the gray towers of the Castle Crags. The perspective appeared to be similar to what one sees above the gas station at Castella but with the obvious location along the river. The painting also included Castle Dome, thrusting up from the forested ridges to the right of the main bulk of the Crags. Crowning this incredible scene was the wintery-white cone of Mount Shasta. The arrangement of the river, the Castle Crags and Mount Shasta was incredible. How could such an amazing site not be the subject of countless images? I thought that this HAD to be one of the finest vistas anywhere and I was set on ferreting out this amazing view.

The Castle Crags from the confluence.

I began cruising by jeep and foot many sections of the Sacramento River. I ultimately covered most of the accessible areas between Dunsmuir and Sweetbriar. I had originally thought the vista must be located around Castella due to its similarity to the perspective of the Crags from the Castella gas station. I made a quick spin through the village but I did not immediately see anything that seemed like it was what appeared in the painting. After venturing further away from Castella both to the north and the south, I finally returned, convinced once again that that had to be the area. I passed through again, this time on foot. It was at this point that I observed the confluence of the Sacramento and Castle Creek for the first time. It is not immediately evident from the road but it is not hard to find either. As I stood there admiring the view, the pieces began to fall into place. The river, the Crags, Castle Dome, were all in the right spot. The expanse of boulders and even a crooked ponderosa pine arcing over the Sacramento River were present. Everything was arranged as one would expect after closely examining the painting. Everything but Mount Shasta. It quickly became apparent that the scene depicted in the painting was an artist’s flight of fancy. The painter had found an incredible view of the Castle Crags and simply painted Mount Shasta over it. The painting that inspired me to search for this vantage point turned out to be a fake the entire time. Though I was disappointed, I quickly readjusted my priorities and swiftly came to appreciate the confluence on its own merits. It may not be the superlative vista I had hoped, it is still a stupendous view of some of the North States most important landmarks.

It is worth noting that the trail map (I reviewed all the Mount Shasta trail maps here) the produced by the Forest Service uses the painting on its cover. It is customary for Forest Service wilderness maps to include and image of the wilderness on the front fold. The Mount Shasta and Castle Crags Wilderness map deviates from this trend. Instead, the front fold of the map is adorned with a portion of the painting. It includes both Mount Shasta and Castle Dome presiding over the Sacramento River. While the painting, and consequently the cover of the map, is quite misleading, it is still one of the most spectacular views in the area.

Few mountains in Northern California have the stark and sudden contrast from its surroundings as the Castle Crags. Erupting from the vast forests of the Sacramento River Canyon, the ramparts and towers of the Castle Crags are spectacular by any metric. Yet, despite their incredible geography and stunning appearance, it is often difficult to find good vistas from which to observe them. Certain points in Castella and few vantages from within Castle Crags State Park offer good places to view the granite splendor. Unfortunately these generally lack a certain elan, since they are basically just large breaks in the forest canopy. Conversely, there are several great places such as the Girard Ridge Lookout and Castle Peak, that permit the dedicated to enjoy staggering views of the Crags but they require hikes or long drives. While they are certainly worth the effort, if time is at a premium then they require more investment than may be realistic. However, there is one spot that is easy to reach that offers a truly spectacular view of the Castle Crags. Within earshot of I-5 and requiring only a short walk on a paved road, the confluence of the Sacramento River and Castle Creek may be the finest view of the Crags’ granite chaos. It is a source of continued amazement that such an incredible perspective on one of the Northern California’s most spectacular formations remains so seldom seen.

Fall at the confluence.

Although there are several great places to see the Crags, I am convinced that the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River is the best. At the outset, this view is a variation on the classic aspect most people see from Castella. The great knot of soaring granite towers and massive cliffs are all present including Battle Mountain and Mount Hubris. Six-Toed Rock and Castle Dome are also easy to identify. However, what makes the confluence viewpoint excellent is the presence of so much water, a resource that is often hard to appreciate in the Crags. At the confluence the Sacramento narrows a bit and runs very deep. Small rapids upstream and downstream from the confluence add interest to the location. Castle Creek, on the other hand, runs through a rocky channel with room to spread out and splits into a few different troughs en route to joining California’s longest and largest river. It should be noted that Castle Creek is not an insignificant stream. It is possibly the largest tributary of the Upper Sacramento River. It has a large watershed that includes the Seven Lakes Basin and the hidden lakes tucked away in the mysterious Grey Rocks. The real highlight of these two waterways is where they meet. Castle Creeks is 4 or 5 feet higher than the Sacramento so at the confluence the creek tumbles over a short but broad cascade in order to contribute its waters to the river. Over all of this presides the majestic Castle Crags. Though seldom seen, the view from the confluence of Castle Creek and the Sacramento River is magnificent and not easily forgotten.

The confluence does not require a long hike or walk. Due to its ease of access, it works much better as a place to sit, relax and read or to have a picnic or other such time with friends and family. It is also possible to swim in the river here though obviously great care should be taken if doing so. It should be noted that access to this spot passes through a residential area so respect for those who live in the area is due. Still, despite the residential setting passed through to get to the confluence, once there the road and homes fade away and all one can see is the glory of granite turrets, rushing rivers, and the great expanse of wonderful river rock. It may be seldom seen but it is stupendous nonetheless.

As always, if anyone is curious about details in getting to the confluence, feel free to send me an email and I will give directions.

Four seasons at the confluence:

Winter at the confluence. Castle Dome on the far right.

The confluence of the Sacramento and Castle Creek. Castle Dome on the far right.

Summer at the confluence. Castle Dome on the far right.

The confluence of the Sacramento and Castle Creek. Castle Dome on the far right.

The sunrise illuminates a significant portion of the newly acquired portions of the Castle Crags.

The great jumble of granite spires known as the Castle Crags is one of the most easily recognized landmarks in the Mount Shasta area. Aside from the unrivaled cone of the great mountain itself, the Crags are the region’s most rugged and spectacular landscape. They are also among the areas most remote. Even though the Pacific Crest Trail and the Castle Dome Trail, one of the most popular paths in the North State travel through the Castle Crags, the fact remains that the vast majority of this tremendous cluster of towers and domes is left utterly untracked by all save the most hearty and intrepid. The remoteness is in large measure a consequence of the Crags geography, which makes trail construction extremely difficult. Needless to say, the lack of trails is not an indication of a lack of fantastic scenery or destinations to explore. On the contrary, for those who do venture into the Castle Crags amazing sights await.

Looking at some of the new areas (left and below the spire).

Most of the Castle Crags falls under the administration of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. The preponderance of this area is within the Castle Crags Wilderness, an administrative designation that protects against development. It may come as a surprise to many, but almost none of the Castle Crags actually falls within Castle Crags State Park. Instead, the park forms a girdle around the most easily reached sections of the Crags and essentially charges admission to hike to National Forest property. However, not all of the Castle Crags were open to the public. Two significant sections remained in private ownership by the Roseburg Resources Company. These two sections (a section being a measurement of land that is one square mile and contains 640 acres) are located on the rarely travelled north side of the Castle Crags and contain towering granite cliffs and spires as well as a significant portion of the Little Castle Creek drainage. Few traveled out this way, the majority of whom were dedicated rock climbers who sought out the towering walls for epic wilderness climbs.

It was in the effort to ensure access for climbers that the Access Fund, an organization established to promote and maintain access to climbing areas, got involved with the effort to acquire these two gorgeous sections. Negotiations with Roseburg have been completed and a deal reached for the transfer of the two sections to a private trust with the ultimate intent to transfer the land to the Forest Service. This is a commendable achievement by all involved. The new land finally brings the entirety of the Castle Crags under unified management. This may lead to the land being added to the Castle Crags Wilderness at some future date. However, only Congress has the authority to take this action so it will be a while before any formal action is taken. In spite of this, the Forest Service will probably manage the area as a de facto wilderness area. Still, this area has fantastic recreational potential. Obviously rock climbers are the first to benefit, as are those ambitious enough to explore the canyons that penetrate the Crags’ north side. Hikers will no doubt foray into the area, whether there are trails or not. One potential addition to the area is a trail that climbs the Little Castle Creek canyon and links up with the Pacific Crest Trail. Such a trail would go a long way to creating a loop that would form a magnificent backpacking loop. No formal proposal for such a trail exists and many hurdles would await if the project were attempted but the idea has merit.

Map shows the extent of the Castle Crags Wilderness and the Castle Crags State Park. The new additions are marked in yellow.

The acquisition of these portions of the Castle Crags is a major accomplishment. Accolades must be given to the Access Fund and Roseburg, as well as to private citizens. Grover Shipman in particular, whose excellent book “Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing – A Climber’s Guide to Siskiyou County” has raised awareness of the scenic and recreational potential locked away in these two sections, contributed to this successful deal. It is a win for everyone who appreciates the stunning beauty of the Castle Crags

Last week finally saw winter’s return to the Mount Shasta area. Cold temperatures had been around for a while but the snow had not yet set in. It seemed as though autumn was fighting to maintain its dominance until Christmas at which time it would finally allow winter to assert itself over the region. Obviously this was not to be the case and the week after Thanksgiving saw the arrival of snowy conditions for the first time.

Windy sunrise on Mount Shasta.

The initial onslaught was a short burst of rain. Not surprisingly this translated into a thin layer of snow on Mount Shasta. While it may rain everywhere else around Mount Shasta, the giant volcano’s tremendous height yields colder temperatures and, consequently, snow when none has fallen elsewhere. This was not the first time the mountain has been cloaked in white this fall but like all the other times, the winds picked up and the ice was blasted off of peak. It would take a stronger storm with more precipitation to successfully cover the mountain with a healthy layer of snow. While the wind strips the mountain clean again, and it would be a miserable place to be in those conditions, it still creates wonderful images from down below. Looking up at the mountain when it seems that it is shrouded by what seems to be a wispy cloud and realizing that it is snowy being hurtled through the air by fierce winds always makes me want to stop and pull out my camera. If the conditions are highlighted by sunrise or sunset, so much the better!

Mount Shasta gazes down on the frozen Sacramento River.

Immediately after the first storm, the temperatures plummeted. Day time highs ranged from lower 10’s to lower 20’s. At night it got down to around zero in some places, including my house. I live outside of town at a higher elevation so we are always colder (and snowier) than weather reports for Mount Shasta City. The frozen temperatures were actually enjoyable and made for some beautifully unusual conditions, especially along the Sacramento River. This area is one of my favorite spots around Mount Shasta. The broad, rocky channel of the river makes a great foreground below Mount Shasta. The rushing river and the multi-colored boulders are always visually appealing when contrasted against the great heights of the mountain. In the freezing weather, the river was given a new personality. Rather than the swift river one normally finds, the Sacramento was burdened with a thick layer of shimmering ice. The crystalline flow stood in stark opposition to orange, red and gray boulders dotting the river’s channel. Adding to the surreal setting, the river could still be heard running beneath the ice. In a few places the living water emerged into the sunlight, only to once again be swallowed up by the frozen crust.

Snow finally did arrive for the first time in the valleys. We got about 6 to 8 inches around the house. This is just about the perfect level of snow since it covers everything and really FEELS like it has snowed but it is not so deep that it requires a lot of work to manage. It also makes dresses the mountains in their winter attire without cutting off access to many of the trailheads. Of course, it is necessary to have a 4×4 to reach some of these spots but it is nothing like the big storms where several feet of unplowed snow build up on the mountain roads and access is much more difficult. The snow also came at the perfect time to head out to the woods to get Christmas Trees. While we have a few spots where there a lot of good trees in areas that need to be thinned, the best of them was still accessible across the divide from the South Fork Canyon. The Trinity Divide was particularly beautiful beneath the freshly fallen snow. The frozen lakes, snow-laden trees and icy river were invigorating.

Many Lakes Mountain rises above frozen Mumbo Lake.

The sun sets on the frozen Gumboot Lakes and the South Fork Canyon

Massive icicles form on a seep next to the snow-covered Sacramento River.

Unfortunately the snowy conditions did not last. A few days after the storm, the winds returned and the temperatures rose a little above freezing. I returned to the South Fork to hike the PCT. While there was plenty of snow on the ground, I was amazed at how quickly the trees and south-facing peaks and ridges had shed their mantle of ice. I hiked out through the snow to Gumboot Point. This is one of the best view points in the Mount Shasta area and it is amazing just how easy it is to bet to. From this vantage I could look out at the Trinity Alps, the Scott Mountains, the Trinity Divide and magnificent Mount Shasta. Looking about at all of these mountains, I was surprised just how much the snow had already receded. Mount Shasta in particular had been scoured clean by the wind and was already the semi-naked mountain that it has been for the last few months. While disappointed that it had not lingered as long as I would have liked, I was still grateful for the opportunity to behold such a magnificent vantage so soon after the storm.

As I drove home, I stopped again at one of my favorite spots along the Sacramento River to enjoy the afternoon light on Mount Shasta. Some of the ice had melted off of the river but there was still plenty of frozen spots to add a lot of interest. Now the ice was mixed with the snow that covered the boulders that litter the Sacramento’s channel. As I packed up to finish the trip home, I thought about how winter may inhibit hiking opportunities, but it does highlight the beauty of this spectacular region.

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