First of all should say love the forum, haven’t signed up until now but have visited many times previously for some great advice when faced with ‘ Isuzu issues’.Have a big decision to make and would be interested in hearing some more experienced hands take on it.Have a 95 3.2 auto MU, she’s pretty agricultural in interior and exterior, wof (after 600$ of work) drives ok for main, 310k on clock but god knows how many more as pretty sure prev owner disconnected the speedo. Anyway turbo is poked, no loss in performance yet or smoking but is making awful racket. I’d love to have the tools, workshop and know how to sort myself but I’m one of “those guys” so mechanic is saying about 2k nz$ to fix. Money is tight and she’s my only vehicle.I’m pretty reluctant to pump anymore into what is still just going to be a 3 k 23 yr old vehicle.....but i have already replaced alternator last year, radiator, water pump and timing belt in 2015 (50-60k ago) lots of work on brake disks and suspension was overhauled when I got her so part of me thinks surely not much else could go wrong? Plus to replace it with another 4x4 is $$$$So at a crossroads.... put a bullet in her once and for all or throw more dollars at it? Interested to hear what you folk think

CheersFPPS I should say I absolutely love the old heap, it’s old and battered but there is just something about them

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What noise is the turbo making?The normal fail on these is a whine on shutdown. Often a whistle on boost can be an air leak elsewhere or just surface cracking inside the turbo which has no effect on life etc. Otherwise the only test I can recommend is to take the inlet pipe off with engine off and check for side play and back front movement in the impeller. Also see if the impeller turns freely

Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them

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Thanks Geeves for your replyI should have said that when I took to mechanic he showed me the obvious play in the impeller, she’s always been whistlely even from when I bought her but it was the onset of a metal on metal whine/grinding with a sharp ticking in the last week that had me running to my mechanic. It definitely needs replacing even tho I’m gambling by running around town as isCheers again

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Was the play along the shaft or across it. A little along the shaft isnt that bad but across is very bad. Buying a genuine turbo will cost 1000+ then paying the mechanic to fit Cheap copies are available at a few 100 but some are ok some not. Its a gamble which since you are paying to have it fitted I wouldnt advise taking. Selling as a runner with bad turbo could be your best option

Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them

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Yeah it was side to side play unfortunately.Think I’ve probably had my decision made for me in that the cars that I can afford in my area almost make my Mu look good. Looks like I’ll be “investing” a little more into her, I mean who needs to eat more than every second day right?

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geeves wrote:Was the play along the shaft or across it. A little along the shaft isnt that bad but across is very bad. Buying a genuine turbo will cost 1000+ then paying the mechanic to fit Cheap copies are available at a few 100 but some are ok some not. Its a gamble which since you are paying to have it fitted I wouldnt advise taking. Selling as a runner with bad turbo could be your best option

Not interested in buying copies or cheap ones. Going with the genuine turbo is the best option I guess.