South Side (Nepal): It looks like the
film team of
David Breashears, Ed Viesturs, Gustafsson, etc, and the
Greek team of Panagiotis Kotronardos
(leader), Pavlos Tsiantos, Michalis Styllas, Antonis Aantonopoulos, Giorgos
Voutyropoulos, and Spiros Soulis want to head up first on the Camp 3 on the 13th, Camp
4 on the 14th, and attempt the summit on the 15th. The film team would like other climbers NOT to be in
the film, therefore they have a reason to go ahead. The Greeks are telling
people the 16th are the date, but that they are going with the film team.
Andres and
Mexican/Canadian team will probably be in the mix, too...

Several teams are in line for the second wave, including
IMG,
Mountain Madness (17th
attempt announced) Koreans,
Peak Promotions,
etc... Some will wait for the trail to be broken and the ropes to be fixed, if
possible...

The North Side (Tibet), is a less clear, with the Greeks again trying to
make the move, so they can meet the South Side climbers at the summit. But the
ropes from high camp to the ridge are not in, and very few if any high camps
are in (YIKES!); as the wind has been hammering the North side (Video).
No news of an agreement to fix the upper route...

Yan Giezendanner predicts
that the winds are changing from northwest to west, with good weather on the 13th and
14th but 80mph winds on both days up high on the north side. On the 15th he is
predicting the wind to drip a little, which would allow STRONG EXPERIENCED
CLIMBERS a chance of summiting if conditions hold. On the 16th and 17th, he
predicts the winds to get lower but snow will move in. He predicts snow both
afternoons... Again, these are FORECASTS.