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$2.50 for a waterproof glass in line fuse holder from Jaycar. You only need one of the silver connectors to crimp to your aftermarket reverse wire. The rest is just extra as I couldn't find the connector by itself (it's so cheap so who cares!).

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The final pieces have started to arrive. Tested today and I can confirm this will fit the Australian 24 pin reverse pin plug. Disregard the right most brown wire as it will not be utilised for reverse trigger.

A Pillar trim a little tricky to get off. Pull down on the pinch weld so it's out of the way. Grab behind the A Pillar and pull towards the driver side. The clips will allow some forward movement but latch to retain the trim. There is probably some twisting you could do to completely free but it wasn't obvious to me. It's a tight space to work in but this will let you get behind he airbag for mic and dash cam wiring.

I bought a 2 wire rear camera voltage adapter, so everything is ready to go for the weekend. I will need to solder the adapter power and ground wires into the harness and it should all be plug and play.

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A month of chasing Toyota for a wiring diagram (that admittedly I don't need now through my own investigations) Toyota tell me I can subscribe to the Repair and Service manual through their site. The link provided doesn't work which makes me think if I do subscribe I'll have the same issue that Terrence did of there being no document to view!

To get to this point was a month of chasing Toyota, I don't fancy paying them $16.50 to discover the link is still broken and then working on getting a response for a month or longer. But I do really want that manual for the future!

I would be interested in finding what the wires in the pic below are. I will test on the weekend but I think the green is reverse, purple maybe sw1 and sw2 but not sure on the red, white/black or grey on the 28 pin connector that the Toyota Head Unit connects into.

I did a quick hookup of my unit last night with everything working except the reverse and steering wheel talk switch, which is to be expected as the reverse and switch wires into the new unit was not attached to anything.

I will be depinning the Joying 28 pin molex connector so I can reconfigure to suit the C-HR wiring harness and the only thing slowing me down now is identifying what these Toyota wires are.

I will drop into my favourite electronics retailer tonight to pick up some new molex connector pins for the job.

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This evening's tinkering was on fuse box underneath the glove box. The three empty fuse slots are constantly powered, they would be a perfect place to fuse tap in for a Dash Cam with a parking mode. The Kenwood cam I'll be using will solder into the Kenwood Head Unit's harness.

Interior cabin lights (DOME 7.5A fuse) are constantly powered. After twenty minutes if the ignition has not been turned on the lights will switch off, however, the fuse circuit still has power and could also be tapped as a constant power source. I'd just stick with utilising the empty fuse slot personally.

Playing with orientations of the fuse tap revealed that the supplied fuses that arrived today are really quite garbage. The coloured plastic separated from the metal when I pulled them out from the fuse tap. Hardly a shocker given it was cheap eBay crap. I'm satisfied with the quality of the fuse tap itself, but I'll be popping back to Jaycar for some decent Low Profile Mini Blade fuses for peace of mind.

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Do you have an ETA on the part you need? Fingers crossed it's not a long wait.

Everything going to plan with work tomorrow I should be able to finish early and make a start on the stereo. I am working on separate videos for the Dash Cam and Head Unit, so I'm trying to structure it out ahead of time so everything flows and makes sense. Just me shooting on my phone, lighting is a challenge in the dark interior but I want to turn out something useful to anyone else interested in the CHR.