please someone help me with this car

This is a discussion on please someone help me with this car within the Computer & Tuning forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ok i have a 99 ta a4 i have 342 gears true duals a ported tb under drive pulley long ...

please someone help me with this car

ok i have a 99 ta a4 i have 342 gears true duals a ported tb under drive pulley long tubes now with that i ran a best time of 8.40 in the 8th mile now about a month ago i had a precision 2800 stall put in and a cam 238/.244.586/612114+4lsa and had it tuned with hp tuners and now it runs like shit it wont stall out past 1800 and it wont run better than a 9.30 8th mile i dont no what to do i took it back to the shop that did it and it is still the same does anyone no what i can do please help me cause it is pissing me off thks

who did you have tune it and did they give you a full tune or just a dyno tune? What's the car doing specifically? I'm afraid more than likely you'll just have to find someone else to tune it and make sure they give you references first to check them out.

full tune

Originally Posted by 0rion

who did you have tune it and did they give you a full tune or just a dyno tune? What's the car doing specifically? I'm afraid more than likely you'll just have to find someone else to tune it and make sure they give you references first to check them out.

yea it was a full tune a shop here in lewisville tx called rpm did it somtimes it just dont want to go when i punch it

As a tuner we always seem to get the blame whenever something goes south so i wouldn't be too quick to critisize anyone's tune without knowing ALL the details--
1st i'm sure you probably already heard this from some others---but 2 major changes at once is a tall order for anyone--because if something goes wrong-you can't pinpoint where it is because you changed too many things at once--being that as it may--A cam of that size requires several trips and logging cycles to get it correct--the idle alone can take days--but it seems like it may be pointing (only a guess toward the stall converter ) tuning stalls can be fickle as some cars will react very little and some will go haywire but never even throw a code--without knowing any details I would look at these things----Make sure that the TQ Mgmt. has been deleted--If a shift kit was added--set the shift times to "0" do disable the adaptive learning--make sure that the shift pionts especially the TCC lock/unlock tables were adjusted-Some cars require that the misfire tables in the engine diagnostic tables be maxed out to eliminate false misfire codes with the converter--What happens is it will go into the "limp mode " and will not lock up the TCC and it will overheat-also it will not shift at the WOT shift points but will go up on the limiter then shift--Still some cars will even have problems beyond this and will require adjustments to the P.W.M. table as well--
Make sure that the tire sizing is correct & if you changed the rear diff the speedo was re-calibrated for it---It way have been OK before the stall--but after, it makes it more critical that it they set correctly

yea i took it bac to that shop and they looked at the car and said that the mass air meter was bad so we put another one and they thought that was the prob but when i picked it up it still ran the same and the service engine light came on

There are two things about car tuning that I have learned over the last 8 years. 1) you can not tune a car thru the mail, and 2) you can not properly tune a car on a chassis dyno only.

A throurough tune must involve street driving in order to get the drivibility correct, this involves several if not many data logging sessions. But since you have a big cam, really, the tune should start with getting the engine to idle correctly on cold starts and hot starts, with no hunting for idle. Then, after the drivibility tuning, its time for the chassis dyno or the dragstrip for PE tuning.