5.12 on the Grand Teton

By Dougald MacDonald
, Aug 13, 2003

Greg Collins and Hans Johnstone have climbed a new, direct line up the classic North Face of the Grand Teton, creating one of the hardest multi-pitch rock climbs in the range. Established over two summers with no bolts and a few fixed pitons, the Golden Pillar starts halfway up the Grandstand, the huge ramp at the base of the North Face, and takes four pitches of crack climbing (5.7, 5.11, 5.10 and 5.12) to the top of First Ledge. Collins and Johnstone climbed this section last summer, then returned this year to complete the line to the top of the face. They followed the regular North Face route to Second Ledge, and then climbed two more pitches (5.11 and 5.12) straight to the East Ridge, near the summit.