Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.

Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

A waterfall tumbles down through the small side canyon. The rock is a very hard quality mix of quartzite and sandstone. Pockets abound.

Getting There

See Ruckman Guide. The details, however, have changed considerably since that writing. IF the gate is closed, you may need to walk up and politely request permission. Stay on the trails and avoid sendng rocks down onto the bridges and terraces that have been built in this lush oasis of a place. If an event (such as a wedding party, etc.) is being held in the area, please respect the desire for privacy and go elsewhere to climb and not here.

Pitch #1: From the ground trend left across the steepening slab to the first bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts to the ledge (same ledge which offers belay anchors for the only other two routes on this wall to the right) and a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20mPitch #2: Tricky and somewhat sandy (or lichen?) moves propel the climber off the ledge up the blunt arete. Belay at the pinnacle like top at a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 30m ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT

This property has new ownership. I spoke with the new owner, a friendly gentleman who informed me that climbing is not allowed on the property due to liability concerns. He did say that a company called "White Pine Touring" occasionally leases out the land for climbing. He also mentioned that he really wanted nothing to do with climbing at all but that it brings people through the property. The property's new name is Louland Falls.