Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has introduced a polypeptide moisturizer. Tego Cosmo PGA (INCI: Polyglutamic acid) is a polypeptide of the amino acid L-glutamic acid. It is a film former with moisturizing properties and a smooth skin feel.

Gamma polyglutamic acid is a naturally occurring biopolymer present in fermented soybean, a health food popular in Japan for more than 800 years and known as “natto.” TEGO Cosmo PGA is the biosynthetic gamma polyglutamic acid, polypeptide of the amino acid L-glutamic acid, formed by bonding between an alpha amino group and a gamma carboxyl group. Its unique production process is based on fermentation of L-glutamic acid by Bacillus subtilis natto, the same microorganism as the one used for the preparation of “natto.” The polypeptide is edible, nontoxic to the human body and biodegradable.

In Vitro testing showed a strong water retention capacity that is superior to glycerin. In Vivo tests demonstrated a smooth skin feel and ease of application. The polypeptide is suitable for o/w and w/o formulations targeted to achieving moisturizing benefits.

Although the polypeptide is water-soluble and could be added in theory to the water phase of an emulsion, it might disturb the build up of the viscosity especially in o/w emulsions. For this reason, the ingredient should be added to the emulsion as an aqueous solution (approximately 5%) during the cooling process at temperatures below 40°C. The ingredient is said to reduce the viscosity of emulsions, which can be adjusted by increasing the concentration of consistency enhancers or by increasing the concentration of hydrocolloids. The ingredient reportedly will also prevent water separation of the emulsion that might occur. For more information, visit www.evonik.com/personal-care.