Hmmm... I wonder if I should have went with a vac bleeder like that instead. Oh well, my bavauto pressure bleeder was shipped out today, hopefully i'll have it in a few days. So, does anyone know if I should fill the pressure bleeder with fluid or should I just do it with air?

Despite owning 4 different manual transmission cars for a total of over 12 years I immediately had trouble executing a smooth shift in my 335 in the lower gears.

After a few hundred miles I learned to shift the 335 smooth by delaying the lift of my foot off the throttle. Problem is that I had to make a conscious effort to do this or I’d go right back to my old timing.

After reading about the CDV delete I had to try it, and let me tell you it instantly made a difference. I’m not an automotive engineer, but my theory is without the CDV restriction the clutch can now reengage before the flywheel slows down too much…making the revs match just right. (Otherwise you would have to think that a slow clutch engagement would be smoother)

Now I don’t have to give shifting a second thought it’s just snick-snick every time!

I highly recommend this mod for anyone experiencing the same shift timing problems that I did. (And who can tolerate the risk of the extra wear and tear on the driveline).

I finally had the time this morning to go out and bleed my clutch again (its been almost a week since the first time). Anyway, thanks to the members on here for giving me some info that I simply overlooked. I didn't realize that the brake reservoir was partitioned and that the clutch line can become empty rather quickly if you aren't constantly filling up the master cylinder in between each bleed. I ended up running it dry and filling up the line with air, which is why my clutch pedal fell to the floor, but I thought that it was filled since the rest of the reservoir was at the max line. Long story short, since I discovered this I was able to bleed my clutch with no problems and all is well now. Shifting feels great now, a lot more like my last car without a CDV. You can feel everything that is going on now. I'm happy. Thanks to everyone for the help.

I finally had the time this morning to go out and bleed my clutch again (its been almost a week since the first time). Anyway, thanks to the members on here for giving me some info that I simply overlooked. I didn't realize that the brake reservoir was partitioned and that the clutch line can become empty rather quickly if you aren't constantly filling up the master cylinder in between each bleed. I ended up running it dry and filling up the line with air, which is why my clutch pedal fell to the floor, but I thought that it was filled since the rest of the reservoir was at the max line. Long story short, since I discovered this I was able to bleed my clutch with no problems and all is well now. Shifting feels great now, a lot more like my last car without a CDV. You can feel everything that is going on now. I'm happy. Thanks to everyone for the help.

this guide says the bleed valve is 8mm, what i found is more like 7/16th, furthermore, there is NO way for me to get any sort of wrench around it, i can barely get a socket around it, and its blakc not bronze like in your pciture

this guide says the bleed valve is 8mm, what i found is more like 7/16th, furthermore, there is NO way for me to get any sort of wrench around it, i can barely get a socket around it, and its blakc not bronze like in your pciture

what gives (same place as in the picture and everything)

What part of the guide were you reading?

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvanL

5. Use a 7mm box key wrech and a friend to bleed the clutch valve. Be sure to pump the clutch a few times to get the air out of the system and into the bleed valve inbetween bleed sessions. 2-3 times should be ample.

um, did you read the part where i said more like i dont have a lot of metric tools so i used the closest imperial to measure it

Quote:

Originally Posted by STE92VE

What part of the guide were you reading?

the part you quoted, the cars are diffrent, the guy with the blue sesemi street character in his avatar had the same size, and ours were plastic not metal, and you have to give it a full turn for it to start bleeding

am i to assume that since my clutch pedal returns to the up position properly that i bled it correctly? it was hard to tell since i have to give it a full turn to get it loose enough to bleed

first impressions, clutch engagement is pretty much the same, a little more informative but thats about it (nothing like the other cars i have driven that give tons of feedback)

what IS a ton different is when your moving out of gear, throwing the clutch in immediately takes pressure off the gearshift

I notice more feel in the transmission during shifting; more "snick-snick" in and out of the gears. The clutch grabs a little more predictably, so I think that I am adjusting my style to use less clutch disengagement. I like it.

I did not notice this before, but there is a sticky spot when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, like it's hanging up on something, feels like it's caught on the floor mat, or my shoe is stuck under something -- but it isn't, it's something internal.

I notice more feel in the transmission during shifting; more "snick-snick" in and out of the gears. The clutch grabs a little more predictably, so I think that I am adjusting my style to use less clutch disengagement. I like it.

I did not notice this before, but there is a sticky spot when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, like it's hanging up on something, feels like it's caught on the floor mat, or my shoe is stuck under something -- but it isn't, it's something internal.

yea i got the sticky feeling when i start the car, it goes away after a minute though, and then sometimes it IS stuck on the floor mat because the stupid fuckers didnt put my velcro in

as for the "snick snick" thats a placebo, the CDV has nothing to do with the transmission itself, what it may be though is what i tried to describe where it goes out of gear faster, IE w/ CDV in when your toss the clutch in and pull it out of gear theres still some resistance against you compared to w/o the CDV because the tranny has had longer to spin down and remove tension

I just did my install this week end (girlfriend's car)and it was well worth it. After comparing the one that came off the car and the one I bought from the suplier listed on this thread, the "Modified" one only have it's guts removed.
I used a small screwdriver and punched the inside. A small metal plate with a hole came out and a plastic ring. Now it looks exactly like the modified one.
I'm going to install that one on my 335 when it comes in October.