When the guy inside a food truck says, “Your potato will be ready in just a minute,” and then he pulls out a fresh, unpeeled whole potato, you know something fun is about to happen.

Sure enough, Takoriya owner Jung Keun Song (just call him “JK”) uses his free hand to pierce it with a wooden skewer and then places the potato on a stick inside a grey cylinder and cranks a lever a few times to spiral slice it. After the potato spends a few moments in the fryer, he pulls it out, sprinkles some seasoned salt all over it and then squeezes a thin layer of spicy mayonnaise. The result leaves most regular fries far behind. This potato twist is crisp, salty and slightly hot on the outside with a tender interior.

Song may specialize in Korean tacos, but that potato is truly something special.

Of course, Korean tacos are as all-American as lemonade and apple pie, perhaps even more. After all, this cultural mashup is e pluribus unum on a paper plate.

In this version of a “tako,” Song offers a choice of beef, pork or chicken marinated in Korean spices. The beef has a pleasant touch of underlying sweetness, while the pork and chicken add a little heat to the mix of flavors. The tacos include a lettuce-based mixture of vegetables with a touch of cilantro and a bit of spicy sauce that might be the Korean hot sauce gochujang, but it's not overpowering. The combination works, and the only real complaint is that it's on a flour tortilla. Corn would have been more interesting. But then again, the classic West Coast-based Korean barbecue taco uses a corn tortilla, so perhaps it was Song's way of doing something different.

The burrito starts with one of the meats and adds kimchi-fried rice, a similar mix of vegetables as the taco, along with a scrambled egg, onion and a bit of cilantro for brightness.

Both offered a nice mix of flavors and textures, but the Dup Bob, a bowl of steamed rice topped with a choice of meat and some fresh kimchi added the contrast of temperature to the mix, with good results.

In the city's ever-growing list of food trucks, this one is certainly worth seeking.