I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

Far as I can tell, all the headers are correct as called for on the plans. The 2-2x8 for over most of the walls are there, look closer- people. Hard to see the 3-2x12 over the 18' great room. Gable end of the sunroom do not require headers as per plan. Gable truss suffices. Nice framing other than around here (in seismic zone) a shear wall inspection is required, before the housewrap. Rest assured, inspections are being done correctly to close the sale for occupancy. If not hire someone local or post way more pictures.

The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above.

Gary
PS. Your wall is stronger with the headers just under top plate than a header directly above the window with cripples above for flex, no worries.

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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

It's been super busy around this house and I haven't been up yet to take a look recently.

Windows are in, roof is done. We've got our post-construction/pre-finishing meeting on Thursday for a walk-through of the place. Next-door neighbor sent a couple more pictures. I know it's mostly the same/boring pictures right now.

I always said that "houses with no windows on the side look stupid", then I went and built one myself. Ah well. There was no point in them on that side of the house for the cost. Plenty of windows in the front and rear. The single window is at the bottom of the staircase.

Deck plans already flying through my head. They offer a "deck" for about $8K, and it's this little 10'x10' thing. Screw that.

I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier, check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall. Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass. I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?http://www.deckmagazine.com/safety/structure.aspx

Gary
PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..

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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in WA

Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier: "The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above."

I was running out of time today to get down to the basement and get the pictures down there, but I can get those easily because they are not finishing it. Unfortunately I don't have that information right now.

Quote:

check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall.

I wasn't able to crawl around there today because the siding crew had all their stuff setup. I will give that a look next time I'm up. I imagine you can't see what you are looking for here?

Quote:

Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass.

Never knew such a thing existed in houses! I've seen in in cars plenty. Judging by this picture, it's pretty close; I'll have to get a measurement. I didn't opt for a deck ($8K for a tiny little thing), so I don't know if they take that into consideration or if it matters. I'll check the glass and height out too next time; thanks for the link on it.

Quote:

I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors.... What type of siding?

Dang! Haven't moved and that honey-do list is already started. It's vinyl siding.

Quote:

PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..

I am pretty hard to please. I come from a networking background with beginnings in cabling & telephone, so I'm a stickler for neat/tidy/organized/presentation. I was very happy with what I've seen so far in the house. I don't know if some things are above and beyond or code, but either way it's nice to see.

Example is all this sealant. It's between every exterior wall 2x that I saw. "Good guys" or code? Also, here's a full shot of the wall that sparked a 4 page debate.

I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

The kick-out flashing looks like this: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item...-intersections it is used where any wall extends past the intersecting roof as to the right of the sunroom door, front of house where great room addition? gable ties into house wall to the right of front door, you can see it from ground with binoculars or +++ camera phone. Pic in basement later would be appreciated.

Just measure the distance from the bottom edge of opening part of window to subfloor OSB and subtract the finish flooring (eg. minus 3/4" for hardwood) to be over 18" for code or you will need to re-glaze (purchase and install) all the windows effected by the deck. Sometimes they forget, sometimes they forget on purpose, and sometimes they just don't care. The fiberglass insulation used to stop air next to the windows is NA; http://books.google.com/books?id=a29...995%29&f=false

I'm surprised the builder is able to seal next to the windows with air-permeable fiberglass--- even if he added continuous caulking on 3 sides of the windows/Tyvek--- and still pass the air pressure test;

COMPONENTCRITERIAa Air barrier and thermal barrier A continuous air barrier shall be installed in the building envelope.
Exterior thermal envelope contains a continuous air barrier.
Breaks or joints in the air barrier shall be sealed.Air-permeable insulation shall not be used as a sealing material. Ceiling/attic The air barrier in any dropped ceiling/soffit shall be aligned with the insulation and any gaps in the air barrier sealed.
Access openings, drop down stair or knee wall doors to unconditioned attic spaces shall be sealed. Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed. Windows, skylights and doors The space between window/door jambs and framing and skylights and framing shall be sealed.

Compare your fg install to this one, notice all the sides of your studs showing and all the wrickles in the paper facing (you could go in and slightly pull the insulation away from being pushed toward the sheathing so when they drywall you will have full contact with it hence no convective loops); From that previous link;

"Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed." Bold is mine.

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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

And........... what did they say? Any news?

Gary

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I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...

Not to derail this, but the homes in this link are built by today's standards. If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad, when the Tornado ripped through.

I personally would tell the GC to go and put in Wind ties while the drywall is still not up, so at least you have a chance, in case you do get one of these events. So far there has been over 76 confirmed Tornado touchdowns, with damage Missouri, up through Illinois, part of lower Michigan, over to Ohio.