Author CAROLINE ARNOLD's travel blog--a writer's journeys around the world

Monday, February 5, 2018

TREKKING EVEREST, Guest Post by Owen Floody

Everest with the famous Khumbu Icefall; view from Kala Patthar

Our friend Owen Floodyhas embarked on numerous treks in the past year and a half, including the ambitious "Ultimate Everest" trek in the Himalayas. Owen recently retired from a career of
teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always
been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken numerous trips that
allow him to pursue his passion. He is a frequent contributor to The Intrepid
Tourist. Here is the report of his Everest trek and a few of his excellent
photographs.Since
my retirement in mid-2012, I have completed 12 international treks.Of these, the longest and most demanding was
Wilderness Travel’s “Ultimate Everest”, a trek that extended over 25 days in
November-December of 2016.My group of five
trekkers assembled in Kathmandu and spent several days exploring this and other
sites and royal cities in the Kathmandu Valley.We then were flown to Lukla, where the trekking began.The trek’s initial leg took us to the vibrant
town of Namche Bazaar.Beyond this
point, our route followed an elongated loop, with the town of Lobuche at its
far end.At Lobuche, we spent several
days following a spur out to and back from the Mount Everest base camp before
circling back to Namche Bazaar along a different route.Though we had hiked from Lukla to Namche
Bazaar at the trek’s start, all in my group opted to return to Lukla by
helicopter.In addition to its obvious
attraction of ease, this provided a very useful bird’s eye perspective on some
of the terrain through which we had trekked.Except in Kathmandu, we stayed in basic lodges and were fed well by our
own traveling kitchen staff.

Everest (marked by the leftmost
cloud) is just behind the Nuptse Ridge, with Lhotse to the right and below the
larger cloud formation

As you would expect, views of Everest and
other Himalayan peaks (especially Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Nuptse) were a primary
goal and achievement.However, the
closest and best views of these (e.g., Everest with the famous Khumbu Icefall ) were not easy to come
by, requiring climbs to 17,500 ft (at Gokyo Ri) and 18,365 ft (at Kala Patthar).To some extent, but only this, the earlier parts of the trek prepared us
for later demands by exposing us to gradually increasing altitudes.For example, our lodges on days 4, 8 and 12
were at 11,270, 12,650 and 14,100 ft, respectively.And Lobuche, the gateway to the base camp,
sits at 16,200 ft. Still, there is a significant
difference between 14,000-16,000 and 17,000-18,000 ft and all of us found our
highest climbs to be very challenging, even with the help of the Diamox that we
took to ward off altitude sickness.One
tip I would give future Ultimate Everest trekkers is to strenuously avoid
exposure to colds or other illnesses borne by fellow travelers.All in my group paid the price for failing to
do this.

Icefield at the top of Cho La Pass

Most of this trek’s figurative highpoints
coincided with literal highpoints.These
included the aforementioned views of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and
Nuptse.In addition, I very much enjoyed
the Cho La Pass,
Ngozumba Glacier and some of the mountain views near the town of Dingboche.

Views from Dingboche

In contrast, I
found our visit to the Mount Everest base camp to be anticlimactic: The time of
year at which the trek runs is not the Everest climbing season so that the base
camp amounted to a sign-posted rock field, not a bustling climbers’ village.

Mani Rimdu Festival

On the other hand, an unexpected personal high point
was the opportunity to see the Mani Rimdu Festival in Tengboche, as we passed
through this town.This visit was an
option on just one of the season’s three Ultimate Everest treks and I would
strongly urge any future trekkers to take advantage of the opportunity, if
available.

The festival highlights a set
of 16 masked dances performed by the monks at the Tengboche monastery. These dances depict the establishment of
Buddhism in the Himalayas, partly by representing the struggle between the
legendary Padmasambhava (aka Guru Rinpoche) and demonic forces.They were complex, incredibly colorful and provided the opportunity to hear traditional
Nepalese musical instruments and music.

All told, this trek
was very demanding but also unique in both artistry and landscapes. What other trek can boast sightings of two of
the four tallest mountains in the world (Everest and Lhotse) that begin early
and continue to improve as you approach the ultimate destination more and more
closely?If this sort of experience
appeals to you and you’re ready for the challenging altitudes, then this trek
belongs on your bucket list.

Welcome

As I travel, I want to know: When people like me go there, What do they do? Where do they eat? What do they like best? What are some of their favorite places, both on and off the beaten track? Here is a random selection of MY travel experiences--and a few from my friends--both current and from the past. (All links are up-to-date.) Perhaps they will answer some of YOUR burning questions or inspire your next trip. Enjoy!

Search This Blog

Total Pageviews

About Me

I like to think of myself as a Lonely Planet traveler without the backpack. (Translation: I like vacation spots that are off the beaten track but I’m willing to get there in a rented car and stay in a comfortable hotel.) I like trips to remote or unusual places especially if they feature wildlife, ancient history, cultural events, opportunities for hiking or other outdoor activities. Sometimes I am an accidental tourist, a result of my own or my husband’s business travel. I am a children’s book author and travel for research and to speak at schools and conferences. (Go to www.carolinearnold.com or www.carolinearnoldart.blogspot.com for more about my books and art.) My husband is a scientist and international meetings have provided the starting point for trips. Sometimes my destination is chosen because of family connections. And sometimes I simply choose a place because I have never been there before. I have always kept a diary when I travel (long before blogs were invented) and written the occasional article about my trips. Some of those articles and diary entries (heretofore unpublished) will be posted here. I will also post comments on my current and recent travel.

Followers

Iowa City, a Top Literary Destination

Iowa City, IA, has been named by Expedia as a top literary destination for its bookstores, literary cred, literary events, and fostering of the literary arts.

Thoughts on Travel and Life by Floyd Sandford

Floyd Sandford, a life-long intrepid traveler, reports on his journeys at his blog Floyd's Travels and Thoughts on Life illustrated with some of his amazing photographs. Most recent is his hike along England's Southwest Coast Path.

National Park Pride

How many national parks have you visited? Here's a list, state by state, of popular parks and hidden gems, put together by Cotopaxi, a company dedicated to sustainable adventure.

36 Hours in Oakland CA

Oakland, CA, highlights not to miss if you have 3 days to visit. From the New York Times.

Lonely Planet Kids

Check out Lonely Planet Kids for books, apps, games and downloadable activities that acquaint kids with the amazing and diverse world we live in.

Read The Intrepid Tourist on Your Kindle

Now you can subscribe to The Intrepid Tourist at Amazon and read it anywhere, anytime, on your Kindle. Click here to connect to Amazon.

Oakland, CA: Brooklyn by the Bay

This NY Times Travel article touts Oakland, CA as the West Coast Brooklyn. It cites just a few of the many attractions of this vibrant city in the East Bay, which is also my part-time home.

Arts Vista

If you love art, music, dance, theater, opera, or film, and are traveling to Vancouver, Canada, check out Arts Vista for info on 80 current arts events. More cities and more events will be added soon!

Writing Istanbul Online Book

Read 14 writers' impressions of Turkey (including mine) in this free online magazine, Writing Istanbul, at Issuu.com with photos and links. We all went on the same trip, but came back with our personal views.

Watts Towers in Los Angeles

The wiry spires of Simon Rodia's Watts Towers are a LA landmark--part art, part history, part culture. This article at Red Tricycle will help you plan your visit!

California's Channel Islands, A Great Day's Outing

Take a trip to Anacapa Island, LA's closest island getaway, to see seals, birds, wildflowers, and enjoy a day in the great outdoors.

Apps for Budgeting a Family Vacation

Need to stick to a budget? Here's a list of the best iPhone apps for budgeting for a family vacation.