I would agree with bdunbar79 on this lens, it's a great Lens but shooting at distance you need all the help you can get, I use a RRS Monopod and RRS Monopod head, this allows me to markedly increase my keeper rate. As soon as the 300 f/2.8 L II was released I upgraded & with the almost 30% reduced weight, faster focus I still use the Monopod but a lot less, keeper rate has improved over the Mark 1 Lens, I've found this to be the case also with the Version II 400 & 600 as well. I wouldn't say any of the Version II lenses are a huge improvement on IQ over the Version I Lenses, but the improved reduction in weight & faster auto focus has impacted hugely on reducing the OOF shots, I shoot mostly wildlife & would sleep with these Version II lenses if my wife would allow.

OK...now a question for both of you....at 1/1600, do I really need a monopod. even at 1/600 or above do I need a monopod

I don't think it's the shutter speed. I think your tiny movements are magnfiying across the field, and confusing and slowing the AF. You do not need to buy version II lens, but I would click on IS and use a monopod, for a higher keeper rate. If you cannot do that, then you will need to shoot more shots and really try to nail focus. What is probably happening is that you nailed focus, then moved slightly and now focal plane has moved.

I would agree with bdunbar79 on this lens, it's a great Lens but shooting at distance you need all the help you can get, I use a RRS Monopod and RRS Monopod head, this allows me to markedly increase my keeper rate. As soon as the 300 f/2.8 L II was released I upgraded & with the almost 30% reduced weight, faster focus I still use the Monopod but a lot less, keeper rate has improved over the Mark 1 Lens, I've found this to be the case also with the Version II 400 & 600 as well. I wouldn't say any of the Version II lenses are a huge improvement on IQ over the Version I Lenses, but the improved reduction in weight & faster auto focus has impacted hugely on reducing the OOF shots, I shoot mostly wildlife & would sleep with these Version II lenses if my wife would allow.

Yeah I am thinking of purchasing version 2 of 300 f/2.8L IS. I could probably sell version 1 of both 300 and 400 f/2.8 because I can get so close on sidelines now that I rarely would require the 400 f/2.8. I'm not sure though, I like having it and shooting from off the sidelines slightly.

I would agree with bdunbar79 on this lens, it's a great Lens but shooting at distance you need all the help you can get, I use a RRS Monopod and RRS Monopod head, this allows me to markedly increase my keeper rate. As soon as the 300 f/2.8 L II was released I upgraded & with the almost 30% reduced weight, faster focus I still use the Monopod but a lot less, keeper rate has improved over the Mark 1 Lens, I've found this to be the case also with the Version II 400 & 600 as well. I wouldn't say any of the Version II lenses are a huge improvement on IQ over the Version I Lenses, but the improved reduction in weight & faster auto focus has impacted hugely on reducing the OOF shots, I shoot mostly wildlife & would sleep with these Version II lenses if my wife would allow.

OK...now a question for both of you....at 1/1600, do I really need a monopod. even at 1/600 or above do I need a monopod

I don't think it's the shutter speed. I think your tiny movements are magnfiying across the field, and confusing and slowing the AF. You do not need to buy version II lens, but I would click on IS and use a monopod, for a higher keeper rate. If you cannot do that, then you will need to shoot more shots and really try to nail focus. What is probably happening is that you nailed focus, then moved slightly and now focal plane has moved.

I think alot of the time it's down to the weight. While it's handholdable, it isn't long before the weight makes it more difficult to keep the lens pointing exactly where you want it and as the others said, you don't need to be out by much to make a difference.

I would agree with bdunbar79 on this lens, it's a great Lens but shooting at distance you need all the help you can get, I use a RRS Monopod and RRS Monopod head, this allows me to markedly increase my keeper rate. As soon as the 300 f/2.8 L II was released I upgraded & with the almost 30% reduced weight, faster focus I still use the Monopod but a lot less, keeper rate has improved over the Mark 1 Lens, I've found this to be the case also with the Version II 400 & 600 as well. I wouldn't say any of the Version II lenses are a huge improvement on IQ over the Version I Lenses, but the improved reduction in weight & faster auto focus has impacted hugely on reducing the OOF shots, I shoot mostly wildlife & would sleep with these Version II lenses if my wife would allow.

OK...now a question for both of you....at 1/1600, do I really need a monopod. even at 1/600 or above do I need a monopod

I don't think it's the shutter speed. I think your tiny movements are magnfiying across the field, and confusing and slowing the AF. You do not need to buy version II lens, but I would click on IS and use a monopod, for a higher keeper rate. If you cannot do that, then you will need to shoot more shots and really try to nail focus. What is probably happening is that you nailed focus, then moved slightly and now focal plane has moved.

I think alot of the time it's down to the weight. While it's handholdable, it isn't long before the weight makes it more difficult to keep the lens pointing exactly where you want it and as the others said, you don't need to be out by much to make a difference.

I agree. I shoot with the 200 f/2 (not a light lens) handheld with my heavy 1DX using 1/200s shutter with no issues. The key is to learn to support yourself properly and to use AI servo mode. I only use a monopod when shooting for long periods of time like sports shooting.

The Long Lenses (300/400/600) all require firm control when shooting at distance, any movement is going to throw off the focus, an earlier mention of shooting in AI Servo is good advice that I have learnt through many OOF shots when shooting in Single Shot, an error I used to make (Compliments of the centre spot focus point on the 5DMK2), has been with the advent of the 5DMK3 & 1Dx, getting out of the habit of using the Centre Focus Point & recomposing (sure fire method for OOF shots), getting used to the diversity of 61 Focus Points after the single usable (IMO) focus point of the 5DMK2 has been a real learning curve, enjoyable though & productive. To answer an earlier question on using a Monopod when shooting at say 1/1600, perhaps not usually, but the weight in the 300 V1 is still a factor & I would suggest unless your Arnold, you may find a support system a real advantage. When shooting Wildlife on Safari I always use the RRS Safari Rig Monopod, swear by this system, these guys make absolutely the best gear available when it comes to Camera support.

Logged

The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing

Where on earth did you get that appalling notion from? Mode 1 is to stop movement in two directions, left-right and up-down, unless you have hybrid IS and that does three directions with in-out aswell, but the point is, Mode 1 tries to steady the shot completely. Mode 2 is for panning in any direction, the lens will work out your direction of pan and NOT try to correct movement in that specific direction. Mode 3 is a hybrid that automatically works out if you are panning or not, it gives you the best of modes 1 & 2 without having to switch between them. Even if you are on a monopod there is no reason to change IS mode, you are either panning or you are not, if you are then you need to be in Mode 2, if not, Mode 1.

Most modern IS lenses also have auto tripod detect, you don't need to switch them off when tripod mounted, earlier IS systems needed you to turn IS off when the lens wasn't moving as it tended to make up movement to correct!

I don't understand your comments. You repeated what I said. I use mode 1 when handheld (correction in both directions) and mode 2 when on a monopod (panning). The 200 f/2 I mentioned doesn't have mode 3. After 25+ years of this, I think I know what I am doing and my images speak for themselves. Geez.

I don't understand your comments. You repeated what I said. I use mode 1 when handheld (correction in both directions) and mode 2 when on a monopod (panning). The 200 f/2 I mentioned doesn't have mode 3. After 25+ years of this, I think I know what I am doing and my images speak for themselves. Geez.

My point was, IS selection doesn't matter if you are on a monopod or not, and being on a monopod does not mean everybody is panning. Why would you assume people knew that if you were using a monopod that you were panning?

With respect, your two images are not good examples of either IS mode use though, the shutter speeds are too high as shown by the water drops frozen sharply in midair for Mode 1, and the lack of background longitudinal blur in Mode 2. So here are three images that show, one, anybody can take a picture of a dog jumping into a pool , but notice my water drops imply movement because they are more motion blurred, purely an aesthetic decision but relevant with regards IS use, if your water drops are sharp then you have a shutter speed that is fast enough to not need IS . Two, IS mode 1 use, handheld at 0.5 second, the statue is sharp. Three, IS mode 2, panning, note the longitudinal blur of the background.

Now I realise you might know all this, but many don't, and I originally posted to clear up any possible confusion regarding the wording of your use of IS and monopods. Not to try and teach you a lesson you don't need nor to come across as an a-hole, I really was just trying to help others.

A quick look over your past 100+ posts has shown me that you are an argumentative chap who rarely shows your own work so I will prevent further involvement with such arguments with you. Any further explanation as to my statements will simply result in more arguing by you. Anyone else wanting to discuss this without rash, "appalling" comments feel free to continue on and I will join in.