Targeting Delivery to Areas of Concern

By: Nancy Jeffries

Posted: April 3, 2007

Products that increase skin elasticity, provide firming and toning, and add a smoothing effect to specific areas of the body are among the most popular being formulated today. Increasingly, products are being called upon to target specific areas of concern and provide visible benefits, longer lasting effects and improved sensory profiles, with a variety of creams, lotions and dissolvable film products.

“When it comes to skin firming, we know that many of the actives in these types of products usually take a while to be effective,” says Maria Tolchinsky, marketing manager, National Starch Personal Care. “Yet, consumers generally expect to see a benefit almost immediately. Formulators of these products can consider strategies for building in both immediate benefits and long-term benefits. National Starch Personal Care covers the need for immediate skin firming with Flexan II polymer, a water soluble film former that allows the consumer to see a firming effect shortly after a serum is applied.”

Moisture and increased skin elasticity are benefits designed to meet the expectations of the antiaging market. “Moisturizers marketed under the antiaging banner need to be formulated for efficacy, and at the same time these products need a sensory profile that caters to the high expectations of the baby boomer generation,” said Tolchinsky. “Achieving both of these formulation requirements in an antiaging product can be a real challenge. To help formulators capitalize in these areas National Starch Personal Care introduced its Hydrovance moisturizing agent,” added Tolchinsky.

According to the company, studies have shown that Hydrovance offers moisturizing efficacy similar to glycerin, without imparting tackiness to a formulation. “Hydrovance moisturizing agent works by diffusing into the stratum corneum, effectively increasing skin hydration and skin elasticity, with an aesthetically pleasing after-feel,” said Tolchinsky.

Prevention and OptimizationSince premature skin aging is often attributed to sun exposure, one of the best approaches to healthy skin is prevention, according to National Starch. “In other words, take cover with efficacious daily sun protection formulas containing at least SPF-15,” says Tolchinsky, adding that National Starch Personal Care can help makers of these products produce formulas that help maintain actives on the skin longer with film forming polymers. Dermacryl 79 and Dermacryl AQF, both film forming polymers, can be considered in daily skin protection products because they are polymeric offerings rather than wax based technologies and provide a non-heavy after-feel. “Consumers are looking for longer lasting products, providing us opportunities to support the skin care segment with film forming polymers that fit very well in today’s formulas,” Tolchinsky added. In taking a preventive approach to skin aging, whatever the cause may be, National Starch said formulators will need to look closely at concepts extending the effectiveness of actives beyond one or two hours.