Driving auger bits?

Go to page

Well-Known Member

Ok. I mean I have an angle grinder (and it's allot lighter than the SH I just purchased), but it's another tool in the tree - are you saying you wouldn't use an angle grinder style tool at all for this purpose? I'd use a pair of dikes if I could cut through one strand at a time. Not a big deal, and that would actually be my preferred method, if it works. I've never handled EHS, hence all the questions.

I've seen utility workers use angle grinders to cut cable. I use an angle grinder on EHS. I tape the cable with masking tape, then cut through with the angle grinder. I wear safety glasses. The angle grinder is dangerous to use at height because we are not used to them like we are chainsaws, so keep that in mind and respect the tool. I get really nice flat cut, but the metal cable strands melt into each other just a tiny bit. I can tap them to free them up.

I like @cerviarborist method and am jealous of it. It is safer than an angle grinder. I do question if his tool is compatible with all terminations, and it's just a question. I'd like to see what the cut cable looks like.

I use Endz with 5/16ths metal cabling and it is important to have the details of the cut sorted out before you show up on site or you'll end up "learning" and lot, which is a synonym for swearing.

On metal cabling and bracing day, I show up with three m18 fuel tools and a corded superhawg. I hang the tools I need on speedline clips on a sling at each branch where I am working.

Well-Known Member

Ok. I mean I have an angle grinder (and it's allot lighter than the SH I just purchased), but it's another tool in the tree - are you saying you wouldn't use an angle grinder style tool at all for this purpose? I'd use a pair of dikes if I could cut through one strand at a time. Not a big deal, and that would actually be my preferred method, if it works. I've never handled EHS, hence all the questions.

Angle grinder has the weakness that I have to be careful to not break or fracture a thin disc while carrying it and using it. If you would be wiling to use dikes if they would work, you should know that an inexpensive pair of 24 inch bolt cutters will cut at least 1/4 inch EHS and probably 3/8 EHS. Just put a few wraps of duct tape around it to keep it from squishing.

Well-Known Member

Angle grinder has the weakness that I have to be careful to not break or fracture a thin disc while carrying it and using it. If you would be wiling to use dikes if they would work, you should know that an inexpensive pair of 24 inch bolt cutters will cut at least 1/4 inch EHS and probably 3/8 EHS. Just put a few wraps of duct tape around it to keep it from squishing.

Well-Known Member

Got em in a cart. But I also have no immediate plans to do any cabling.

Here's the full deal: I'm doing a swing install requiring a high line towards the end of next week and have been in contact with 'the' swing guy around this area who has coached me through most questions I've had on this one. A knowledgeable company owner locally had also suggested that I get into cabling as part of the services I offer and advised me to pick up the cabling BMP. And, last week, an ISA BCMA I did a couple of reduction and storm damage jobs with asked if I'd come out and help him with a cabling job.

The only imminent thing is the highline/swing install tho. But hopefully I'll have tools that I can press forward with, as opportunities present themselves.

Well-Known Member

Got em in a cart. But I also have no immediate plans to do any cabling.

Here's the full deal: I'm doing a swing install requiring a high line towards the end of next week and have been in contact with 'the' swing guy around this area who has coached me through most questions I've had on this one. A knowledgeable company owner locally had also suggested that I get into cabling as part of the services I offer and abused me to pick up the cabling BMP. And, last week, an ISA BCMA I did a couple of reduction and storm damage jobs with asked if I'd come out and help him with a cabling job.

The only imminent thing is the highline/swing install tho. But hopefully I'll have tools that I can press forward with, as opportunities present themselves.

I think you're laying the right base in every way. Look at the bcma's specification if he will permit it. I wrote a 2-page cabling/bracing/pruning specification for the current estimate I have out. Basically, go through the whole standard and bmp for structural support and pruning and add in every relevant part to form a coherent specification. There are things outside the standards/only implied by the standards, but not many, that are also important to me. The biggest thing to remember is to include the phrase "to provide additional support". I communicate that to the client verbally during my site visit, and clearly in writing in the spec. For the pruning spec, I list number of cuts in <4" diameter wood (nod to Ed Gilman). If there is a reason, I list location in broad (half crown reduction, 20-inch diameter leader extending to the southeast over the residence, etc.) or specific (that branch in the photo) terms as needed.

On site, it is important to have diameter measurements for bracing rod size chart. I use larger/more rod in cases where the tree will attain a slightly larger terminal stature. The standard tends to list minimums for hardware, not maximums, so that is often helpful in deciding to size up. It is good to delineate the nature of the bracing installation either completely or 3/4 complete so that you have discretionary ability during the project. The top rods will always be dictated by the standard, so I put those in as dictated. The lower rods are of decreasing importance and I list a small range of how many will be installed to give me discretionary power. The cabling is usually easier to describe.

Each specification gets easier to write because you plagiarize from previous ones and you get to know the standard better, so my last one took about 30 minutes. Feels great to write a good specification because you can do the work and walk off site without thoughts that could linger every time you pass by the tree for years to come. I feel great about all my installs, and feel much better with my current written specs than my earliest ones. That is why I recommend looking at the bcma's spec if they are willing to share it with you.

Active Member

If you're going to be doing a lot of cabling, I have 3 different directions I might suggest as far as cutting.
First off, Felco and some of the other companies do make cutters capable of shearing nearly an inch thick wire rope. Crescent HK Porter has a ratcheting version of the 8690 that'll do up to 3/4" cable. Want to say it's around $400.

Secondly, if you're going with an angle grinder, there are a few diamond blades designed for cutting, rather than using an abrasive disc that's 3x as thick. I have one made by Lennox, IIRC, they call it the Metal Max and it's about $10 a disc. Only way I'll do cutting w an angle grinder again, diameter stays the same, you don't wear away the blade, just the abrasive.

Here from the beginning

Administrator

I used my angle grinder for the work. The discs I used are made by Pferd and were designed for cut-off use. They still worked for face grinding too. I got sucked into buying another brand and found they didn't last. No economy there.

When I did cabling I used discs that were about half worn down.Just big enough to cut off and threaded rod. This reduced the jumping around and kick back. Think of the small carving tips on chainsaws. When I was using my grinder in the shop I'd change out discs and stash the half-used ones in my cabling bucket as back-ups

The ratcheting cutters are the AAA solution. For my setup though the angle grinder worked and fit my budget.

Well-Known Member

Very stable member

Make sure to do your work on the low speed setting so that the clutch can save you if the work gets bound or otherwise overloads the drill, otherwise you'll get thrown or smacked. Either way it won't be pretty.

About & Mission

TreeBuzz was created to help unite the Arborist community from around the world and provide a platform to share current information and exchange ideas that help increase safety, efficiency and professionalism in real time!