need rear wheel rim

While attempting to straighten the rim and remove a giant dent I cracked the darn thing. I suppose I could get it welded but I would rathe have another rim. Anybody have a used one for sale. This is for a 1999 I bought to fix up and ride but its become such a problem I may part it out. Too many things are missing or broke.

Whatever size or type you need, try to go with a steel rim and at least 12 guage spokes. For my personal bikes I run down to my buddy at the LBS and check out what he's got on sale or cheap in a heavy duty setup. They almost always have something thats been sitting around collecting dust that they will sell a little cheaper.
And as long as you're swapping out a wheel, check out going with some kind of sprocket mount system if you haven't already. The rag joint is just not the way to drive a wheel.
Big Red.

I like the idea of finding a used wheel. I'll give it a try. I'm running out of patience with this bike. I just wanted to replace a missing spoke and after 4 bike shops finally found a 12 ga spoke but it was to long. Had to cut it off and rethread it. Everything I touch on this thing breaks or doesn't work quite right. That and the difficulty in getting parts is getting to me.

Yeah JR, I've also got another LBS that has a big yard full of used stuff. He carries a lot of vintage parts that ya can't find anywhere else. Both of my LBS's have been great with all the help and advice so I'll give them both a plug. Bicycle express and Fabers in San Jose ca. are the best. And they both like Motorized.
Anyway, Back to your bike. You never said what brand of bike you ride. If you can find a Schwinn, Trek, Huffy (whatever fits yer bike) or any wheel that has parts availible that's the way I would go. Sound like you might have an off brand that is hard to find parts for. Except for engine mounting and alighnment, the rear wheel is the most important part of the build. Ya don't really want to cheap out too much on it. Remember, yer gonna be doin 30 or 40mph on that thing, and a wheel falling apart at that speed REALLY SUCKS. So suck it up and build (or buy) the best HD steel, with at least 12guage spoke wheel yer wallet allow's. And I wasn't kidding about a good sprocket mount. It will save you a LOT of problems in the future. I used the rag joint for years. After my first solid sprocket mount I felt stupid for ever using that rag joint at all.
Big Red.

Ordering a Whizzer rear wheel complete might be an expensive upgrade. A Worksman wheel, while not cheap, may still be the better option. I don't know why I didn't think of the Worksman myself. They claim it will hold something like 300lbs and can be upgraded to support up to 500lbs. That is one tough wheel. BUT, While all of this is a good idea, It sounds like the guy is trying to get a good wheel while keeping his cost down. A real good steel rim with heavy spokes should be all he needs. And if he can find a good used one more power to him. And again, (Yeah, I keep saying this,) a hub mount will keep him from ripping his spokes apart again, for the most part anyway.
Big Red.
And yeah Quenton, Of course Whizzers don't use rag joints. No one said they did.

So Quenton, A stupid question. I'm still new at building my own wheels.
Does a smaller number denote a heaver guage spoke? Is a 9 1/4 heavier than a 10 1/4? Or is that just the length of the spoke. I know a 12 is a pretty heavy spoke but which way does it go from there. Thanks for being patient with my learning curve. ( is there such a thing as a spoke chart?)
Big Red.

Most spokes are either 14 ga. [standard bicycle], 12 ga. are .105", and 11 ga. are .120".

All new edition Whizzer have 12 ga. spokes and are laced differently than vintage wheels. The spokes are shorter on the new edition wheels because of the lace pattern. Vintage 26" wheels use 10 5/8" long spokes [new edition are 10 1/4" long].

10 1/4 is the length.

14 ga. stock bicycle
12 ga. stock for most vintage and new edition Whizzer wheels.
11 ga. used on many vintage Whizzer wheels and Worksman.

Larger spokes [11 ga] will not fit the Whizzer sheeve cips correctly and will cut spokes over time. Clips can easily be modified to fit the larger 11 ga spokes.

When replacing rear rim, please note........................... the rear hub is a very, very, very poor unit and will most likely destruct [I have at least 30 defective Whizzer hubs in a box].

The rear hub has pressed on spoke flanges and they move to center under stress. A rear hub with loose spoke flanges makes riding at 35 MPH impossible [lol].

Use a Shimato, Hi-Stop, or any vintage coaster brake hub [Bendix, New Departure, Morrow, etc].

Worksman is most likely the best choice [I have several in my collection with Worksman wheels], however take a look at "Husky" wheels, as they are much less expesive, and still well made.

I know money is tight in these dfficult times, however spending extra for a good wheel is a must for safety. Also consider the amount of work required to remove and repair a rear wheel. I always make sure the rear wheel is way above stock, as it is the most difficult part of the motorbike to service. I always use thorn resistant tubes to avoid any service other than replacing the tire when worn out.

I don't know about a spoke chart, but there is plently of information on the internet about spokes, lace patterns, and HD wheels.

I'm confused about these posts. jroyce posts in the "Whizzer & Antique MotoredBikes"forum & says he has a 99 that needs a rim. I figured in this forum he probably has a 99 Whizzer. Big Red says "And I wasn't kidding about a good sprocket mount. It will save you a LOT of problems in the future. I used the rag joint for years. After my first solid sprocket mount I felt stupid for ever using that rag joint at all." I read that & thought "but that the guy has a belt drive." Quenton mentions that & Big Red says "And yeah Quenton, Of course Whizzers don't use rag joints. No one said they did."

Yeah JB, you're probably right:idea:. I saw 1999 and just thought, A 1999 what? I'm not a whizzer guy so 1999 didn't mean anything to me except the year:dunce:. I guess I should read up on the Whizzer:whistling:. Thanks for not calling me stupid, I really appreciate it:jester:.
Big Red.

thanks for all the great info. You guys always come thru and I appreciate it. I failed to mention this wheel is form a WC1 Whizzer, 1999. After reading all the response I'm gonna go for a new wheel. My Whizzer was supposed to be a bargain build as I bought it off craigslist for $200. If I had looked closer I probably would not have bought it. Got the engine running good but the rest of the bike is a disaster. Looks like it sat outside for a long while as the spokes, fenders, braces and so on are rusted pretty good. No lights except headlight, and all the wiring has been cut off except just enough to make it run. Ok, so you have convinced me to go for a new rear wheel but if one more thing breaks on this thing .........
Thanks again for the help
Jim

thanks for all the great info. You guys always come thru and I appreciate it. I failed to mention this wheel is form a WC1 Whizzer, 1999. After reading all the response I'm gonna go for a new wheel. My Whizzer was supposed to be a bargain build as I bought it off craigslist for $200. If I had looked closer I probably would not have bought it. Got the engine running good but the rest of the bike is a disaster. Looks like it sat outside for a long while as the spokes, fenders, braces and so on are rusted pretty good. No lights except headlight, and all the wiring has been cut off except just enough to make it run. Ok, so you have convinced me to go for a new rear wheel but if one more thing breaks on this thing .........
Thanks again for the help
Jim

Click to expand...

"but if one more thing breaks on this thing ........."

Hey JR, If ya love MB's like most of us do, You'll just "fix it again". You know you will.:jester:

You have a Whizzer so one more thing breaking is a given. I sold mine do to money problems but I fixed many things until I had all the problems fixed. I upgrade the wheels to Worksman wheels with drum brakes front and rear. The engine has all the upgrades to make it a bullets proof NE5. Mushroom lifters, hi-lift cam, very special head, (only know of three of these made), ported cylinder, advanced ignition timing, LED's for the brake light and rear turn signals. This made the battery last much longer. Hated to sell it but.....
Back to the original statement, You will be fixing things for a while but when you get it right it will be more fun than you should be able to have with your clothes on.

I have several [many] new edition Whizzers, and most have well over 6000 trouble free miles each. Just recently I removed the head from my 1999 to see what it looked like after 7000 miles of severe punishment. It is important to mention it is the same motor that exceeded 68 MPH at Portland, IN in 2005. This motor was assembled in early 2005 using NE cylinder, head, camshaft and mushroom lifters and is the motor I use in my daily rider.

When I recently removed the head, I was shocked to see very little carbon buildup. I cleaned the head and re-installed. Couldn't notice any difference after cleaning the head.

Point is, once the "bugs" are worked out, they become well worth the effort.

My 1999 has the rear wheel replaced with a vintage "New Departure" coaster brake, however the front wheel is the stock version with a 2.125" rim installed.

Changing the rims from 1.75" to 2.125" will yeild amazing results in ride, and safety.

Hope this helps wth your quest, and considering your purchase price of the Whizzer, I would say you are well ahead of the game. I have turned down offers as high as $4500. for my well used 1999 Whizzer.

well yes I couldn't give up on the Whizzer. So I ordered a new rear wheel.I almost gave up but you guys kept me going. Somebody said yer gonna fix fix it, you know you will. I stared at it for a couple of days then found a wheel on Amazon. I'll check it out and if it looks ok use it - if not I'll look for another.

well yes I couldn't give up on the Whizzer. So I ordered a new rear wheel.I almost gave up but you guys kept me going. Somebody said yer gonna fix fix it, you know you will. I stared at it for a couple of days then found a wheel on Amazon. I'll check it out and if it looks ok use it - if not I'll look for another.

Its Here!! My new rear wheel arrived Wednesday. Got it thru Amazon. Says Weinmann on the rim, can't find any name on the coaster brake. 12 gauge spokes and it it looks pretty heavy duty. I guess I'll run it and find out. I'll have to tinker with the clutch and pulley adjustment cuz I can't get the belts to slip enough at idle. Drags down the engine and stalls it. Got the idle speed up pretty high right now, don't want it any higher.
While I'm rambling on anybody know of a fender mounted, led, tail light for cheap?