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Re: Let's talk about viewing-windows

I've just finished up a hive to move a swarm into (assuming I need to move them before fall). I've found that I've gotten cheaper at making them, but they look better. Part of that is just learning to do woodwork and getting better tools. And as my dad says, putty and paint will make it what it aint.

Re: Let's talk about viewing-windows

I see these three hole entrances all the time. Three 1" inch holes is about 2.25 sq inches. On a Lang the 3/4 inch by 10 inch entry gives about 7.5 sq inches. Is my math that bad? Are the TBH folk using some info on hive ventilation not understood by Langers? Why do you drill holes, are slots that hard to cut?

Re: Let's talk about viewing-windows

The lock-bolts I had to get from a boating supply company that are stainless. The hinges, thankfully, she agreed to use the brass hinges I got from Lowe's originally.

Notice the small wood block I had to place behind the latch of the lock-bolt. I had to install those because there was too much play when the bolt was locked that allowed the door to open ever-so-slightly.

Re: Let's talk about viewing-windows

Originally Posted by shannonswyatt

Yes, I've read Phil's writtings and understand the philosophy. It sounds really good, but you limit the expansion of your hive or you set yourself up for having to re-arrange the combs if you have large hives that fill out the hive.

You can still inspect from the one end if you use a shortened follower board that you can remove and be at the front of the brood nest. If you put your entrances on one side towards one end you can also use a follower board.

It is what ever works best for the beek. If you like center entrances go with them.

I started out building two hives exactly to Phil's plan (three center holes), and hived my first package April 2012. I did no rearranging for the winter. Even with our extended cold and wet spring this year, my bees made it through and are still going strong.

That said, many people over at Biobees are re-thinking the center entrances, so I revamped the second hive to have end entrance holes, placed so I could have one top-bar blank, then a follower board, which will allow for inspection of the brood nest without too much disruption.

One of the main reasons Phil uses central entrance holes is to make the hive more mouse proof. Since, after watching my bees coming into the hive loaded down with pollen, I also added landing boards, plus moving the entrances to the end, I had to come up with a mouse excluder.

Re: Let's talk about viewing-windows

Originally Posted by shannonswyatt

Wow, that is some serious hardware holding that mouse guard in place. I would say that it is Mighty Mouse proof!

Rather than staple the hardware cloth over the entrance (the guard bees get testy when you beat and bang on their home), I decided to use wing nuts so I could change the size of the hardware cloth or remove it completely. I under stand that I will have to use quarter-inch to exclude mice, but I used this half-inch in the early spring to keep out house wrens trying to nest in the unoccupied hives. I cut a piece of eighth-inch in case I need to close them up for some reason, but still give them ventilation. All I need to do is loosen the wing nuts and change or remove the hardware cloth.

I am a 63-year-old, seriously disabled female, doing all my beekeeping alone. I have to do extra work up front so when I have to do something in a hurry, it will be as easy as possible, because I know that will be when my dominant hand and arm will refuse to work. I have learned a lot through mistakes made during my first 18 months at actual beekeeping. Most of all I learned that what works for Phil Chandler in Devon, England, or for Michael Bush in Nebraska, might not work for me in Virginia.