Thank you for the pictures, I just got the plans and getting ready to start a build. May I ask how much MDF you needed and do you know if anyone has done a cutting plan? I couldn't tell from the plans but will calculate it out as soon as I have time.

You will need two sheets of MDF as you will need to make a couple of jigs for cutting †the 4 matching sides. And one more for the dado for the sliding slot.

If you notice in the picture which looks like it is up side down, we left the sides project beyond the top section with the port and the back. We cut the sides 1/4" deeper than the plans and 1/4" taller where the port plate is. This was done because the joints are almost impossible to hide after you have finished the cabinets, they will show through in time even if they are perfect the day you finish your cabinets. By making them proud of the two surfaces you can make it a design feature rather than a design/build flaw.

I have completed a ZOB build and have been trying them out for the past week. Here are some pictures and comments on the build.

Following the tip from ZYGI, I built the entire thing of MDF. I was able to get pre-veneered MDF for about $13 a sheet from a local bargain shed so the entire build was extraordinarily inexpensive (I think I spend more on paint and stain than the materials).

General comments:

While this build does not involve difficult woodworking (e.g., complex joinery) it does require care and precision. The openings between the chambers of the box and the sliding panel (#7) are only 1/8 and 3/16 inch. Since the box is constructed primarily using the side panels to align the center panels, all of these panels need to be cut precisely square and very close to the right length.

It is worth taking some time to make sure that your table saw, miter guide and other equipment is properly squared and tuned up before making cuts. Since the panels are constructed beginning at one end (with panel #1) and joining the remaining panels in sequence, any errors in length or squareness will tend to accumulate as each new panel is added. Thus, you can come to the last panels in sequence (e.g., #6) and find that the opening is neither straight nor the right size.

It follows that the slots in the side panels also need to be cut at precisely the same height and angle or the gaps will be the wrong size or vary in width. This is almost impossible to do on a table saw. It is better to either make a precise jig for a router or cut the slots by hand and chisel them out.

One approach that helps (though it wonít fix major misalignment) is to wait until panel #5 is in place, then cut #6 to give the proper gap.

Suggestions:

These are some things I found useful during the build. Your mileage may vary.

1. This should be obvious, but make sure that all the interior panels (#1-8) are cut at the same time with the rip fence in the same place. That way you will be sure that they are exactly the same width and will form a box without gaps when joined to the side panels.

2. During glue-up of the last panels (esp. 5, 6, and 8) it is useful to dry fit the sliding panel #7 in place with spacers to set the gaps to the right size. This is shown in the photo. You can then adjust the fit and mark exactly where each panel should be place.

3. If you are using MDF, the slot cut into the side panels makes the long arms very fragile. They can easily break where the slot is cut since there is only about Ĺ inch of MDF there. In addition to being careful, I think it helps to put a cross-brace near the top. If you look a the photos of the new ZOB produced by Decware, you will see that they are using one there now (though it does not appear in the plans). This also gives an additional attachment point for the front panel.

I am extremely pleased with them thus far, definitely the best sounding speakers I have built to date.

They do no give a thumping bass but sound extremely natural with any kind of voice or acoustic music. Certainly handles natural bass instruments in something like a cello or guitar with aplomb. For good recordings there is a clear sense that the artist is in the room. Sound stage is very wide and well defined.

I'd like more direction on how to adjust the stuffing and sliding panel but it sounds good with just trial and error (currently the box is loosely stuffed pretty full and the sliding panel is open the width of the mouth).

Unbelievably efficient. Very easily driven to mind numbing levels with a tube amp or small T-amp.