Jan. 21, 2013

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Written by

Nancy Vienneau

For The Tennessean

Nonna's Pizzeria and Wine Bar in Sylvan Park is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Clockwise from left, the Three Graces pizza with prosciutto, pears, Gorgonzola, arugula and fig-balsamic syrup; Italian Bacon-Cheese Dip and wood-roasted salsa, both served with flatbread chips and carrot sticks; and chicken, pesto and mozzarella piadini with arugula. / Photos by Samuel M. Simpkins / The Tennessean

ABOUT

Nancy Vienneau is a chef and retired caterer with 25 years of experience. She cooks and teaches at Second Harvest and blogs about her adventures with food at http://nancyvienneau.com. Reviews are written from anonymous visits to restaurants. Negative reviews are based on two or more visits. The Tennessean pays for all meals.

Nonna's Pizzeria and Wine Bar is next door to the long-running Caffé Nonna.

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Over on Nashville’s west side, the term “cozy Italian” is synonymous with Caffé Nonna, the snug eatery where chef Daniel Maggipinto has been serving his lush pastas, salads, and entrees to a loyal following since 1999. The cooking of his nonna — grandmother — informed his palate and inspired his cuisine.

Now, he has branched out with a new place, offering the Nonna version of artisanal wood-fired pizzas. He’s kept it very close by — just next door to his Sylvan Park restaurant. Opened in late October, Nonna’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar brings another West-side association to “cozy Italian.”

Tables are strategically placed throughout the 600-square-foot establishment. There’s an intimate bar, its wood shelves stocked with wines assembled by manager John Michael Thurman. There’s a view into the kitchen, its wood-fired oven ablaze. The roll-up garage door looking out onto the bustle of Murphy Road will open for al fresco dining come spring.

Intriguing starters

The menu is concise, with wood-fired pizzas at its heart. But you’ll find other savory dishes that take a turn in that oven, beginning with flatbread chips and dips. Selections include extra virgin olive oil pooled with balsamic vinegar, pungent olive-pepper tapenade and roasted red pepper hummus.

The wood-roasted salsa is the Italian answer to the South of the Border favorite — here the tomatoes are cooked thick and garlicky, flecked with herbs and kicked up with red pepper heat.

Pair it with a cup of Italian Bacon-Cheese Dip. Three cheeses — Gorgonzola, feta and Parmesan are melted together with finely diced pancetta and beer, yielding a rich, piquant sauce. We liked its grainy bite. All dips come with fresh carrot sticks and house chips — hand-cut flatbread strips baked to a fine crisp.

Maggipinto introduces another flatbread treat, the piadina. Somewhat like a grilled panini sandwich, but thinner, like lavash, the piadina originated in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. A beloved street food, the flat round is covered with an array of meats, cheeses and vegetables, folded over, grilled, quartered and served. Nonna’s piadini are generously filled.

You can’t go wrong with any of the three offerings. The vegetarian is spread with the red pepper hummus and plumped with grilled zucchini, olives and feta. Chopped roasted chicken gets plenty of zip from the pesto and arugula melted in mozzarella. Shavings of prosciutto are folded with smoked mozzarella, arugula and lemon oil. A handful of salad greens tossed in Chianti vinaigrette accompany each plate, making it a complete, satisfying and affordable meal.

Creative pies

Maggipinto designed seven pizzas, made in 10-inch rounds, to comprise the roster. Unlike some independent pizzerias, Nonna’s doesn’t boast a particular style of pie (i.e. Neapolitan, Sicilian) or kind of crust.

What you’ll experience is this: homemade dough, hand-tossed, thin, and spread with delicious toppings, and baked bubbly crisp in the wood-fired oven. The signature Nonna pie, a basic tomato sauce topped with mozzarella, Parmesan and fresh basil, is derived from the classic Margherita. It’s quite good fresh, and passes the “leftover test” — tasty at home the following day right out of the fridge. (Note: all varieties “revived” after a brief visit to the toaster oven.)

The Goomba and The Three Graces found special favor with our group. The former was nicely balanced: spicy lean sausage, pepperoni, mozzarella and Parmesan on a bed of red. Quality meats and a judicious layering of cheese distinguish the pie.

The latter appealed not only for its creativity, but also for its delectable combination: Sliced pear interlaced with prosciutto atop creamy Gorgonzola, finished with arugula and a striping of fig-balsamic syrup. Molto delizioso.

Other notes: The “med spiced” nuts (almonds, pecans, walnuts) offered as an appetizer also embellish the arugula salad tossed with goat cheese and lemon. They elevate the salad with peppered caramel crunch.

If your sweet tooth needs satisfying, the cup of tiramisu, luscious mascarpone and brandy espresso-soaked ladyfingers, will do the trick.

Co-owned by Bob Sillers and managed by John Thurman, the amiable staff is knowledgeable about the menu, and helpful in making suggestions for wine. Look for specials during daily happy hours.

The vibe is upbeat yet relaxed, making it an easy place to hang, sip, nosh and visit. Nonna’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar is a great addition to the neighborhood, and to the growing culture of pizza independents around town.