Posted!

Join the Conversation

This conversation is moderated according to USA TODAY's
community rules.
Please read the rules before joining the discussion.

Man turns talent for making jewelry into career

Valerie Cranston, Carlsbad
Published 3:12 p.m. MT April 18, 2015

Pictured is a rapid prototyping machine Alfonso Luna Jr. uses to create models in the process of making his jewelry. Inside the tank is photo sensitive liquid resin. A laser draws a picture of the ring he has created on the liquid. Wherever it draws, it solidifies and creates the shape.(Photo: )

The ins and outs of jewelry making has always intrigued Alfonso Luna Jr. He recently brought his experience and expertise back to Carlsbad to create one-of-a-kind pieces in his jewelry store, Pavé Prince.

Luna is the son of Gregoria and Alfonso Luna Sr. He is husband to Sabrina (Vigil) Luna and father to Alfonso III, Mateo, Elaina and Vicente. He opened Pavé Prince, located at 1127B S. Canal behind the Allstate office just north of La Tienda, April 1.

Luna's interest in jewelry dates back to when he was old enough to walk to Walmart alone. He said he would spend an hour at times just walking around the cases admiring the jewelry. There was one particular starburst style ring he wanted, but the cost prohibited him from getting it.

It was that ring that peaked his interest in how jewelry was made.

During his time at Carlsbad High School, he enrolled in a jewelry making art class with teacher Richard Mattson. He also took a glass on copper class from Mr. Gonzalez. Mattson was impressed with him and gave him a trade magazine article about jewelry making and a program at Paris Junior College Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology.

"He encouraged me and challenged me to make a ring out of a nickel," Luna said. "I also learned the lost wax casting process from him."

"I continued art jewelry projects and created my own gem out of plastic like a giant diamond," he added.

Mattson taught over 4,000 students and had a standard way to make rings out of coins. He remembered Luna, who came up with a different method, thinking out of the box.

"He completely went out of the box making it (the method) simpler," Mattson said.

"Teachers are worth a lot," Luna said, noting that Mattson knew he was passionate and was willing to show him what he could.

Another of Luna's mentors was Sal Anaya, owner of the Jeweler's Bench. He allowed Luna to sit with him, ask questions and watch him work. Luna remembers handling the jewelry making tools, which further fueled his desire to succeed in the jewelry making industry.

Luna said Anaya showed him a couple of techniques that made him want to learn more. He added Anaya was a good friend and above all, gave him guidance.

"He loved the work and that's what it's all about," said Anaya. "He can design anything you want."

Anaya added that he hopes Carlsbad knows what they have and can keep Luna here.

Luna's father bought an old car and found some rings inside. His father gave him the rings and he then melted down the gold and made a ring. He also designed his wife's wedding ring.

Following his 1998 CHS graduation, he enrolled in the four semester, two-year program at Paris Junior College in Paris, Texas. By December of 1999 he earned his level 1 certification.

"I won a Swest award in my third of four semesters," Luna said noting the award was given for excellence in jewelry.

He was nominated for the same award in his fourth semester but no student won the award two years in a row. He finished his two-year program and felt he had a solid foundation in the basics. He did, however, test and pass the level 2 certification.

"That is two levels from a Master Jeweler's Certificate," he said.

Luna was then hired at David Gardner's Jewelers & Gemologists in College Station, Texas, where he spent the next 16 years learning and mastering jewelry making techniques. It is where he got proficient in pavé and was given the nickname Pavé Prince.

Pavé settings are made up of many small gemstones, often diamonds, set closely together. The gems are separated and held in place by little beads of the setting metal. The result is what looks like a continuous surface of diamonds or other gems.

Luna explained that pavé is a French term meaning to pave.

Luna did well in level 3 and 4 testing and will go back and get his certification when they finish revising the tests. He does, however, feel he has been working at the master jeweler level for some time.

While at David Gardner's, Luna made the broach that Gardner designed for Barbara Bush.

Luna felt, after 16 years, it was time to go out on his own. He wanted to develop his own designs and let his own style shine. He wanted to be closer to family.

Creating those one-of-a-kind pieces is his specialty. According to Luna, there won't be any cookie cutter designs found in his shop. He will eventually have designs made up to choose from. This takes time and he works alone.

Luna also wants to see people walk through his shop door with old broken jewelry that can be melted down or traded in. He will sit down with his customers and kick around ideas to help them create something fresh from something old.

He does a lot of collegiate jewelry and has made some Caveman theme jewelry for his nephew. He is available for jewelry repair and guarantees his work.

Luna uses a jewelry CAD program, which is advanced technology and a way to create a 3D model. In his shop, he has three computer screens set up on a desk along with a rapid prototyping machine. The machinery is used to create models in the process of making jewelry.

He starts with a sketch he puts into the computer that creates a 3D rendering of the piece. The rendering is turned into a model that is blue and can be put on, felt and touched. The model is then made into a casting, taking on a metal form, that he will sand, polish and then set the stone or gem of choice.

He went on to explain that inside the prototyping machine tank is photosensitive liquid resin. A laser draws a picture of the ring he has created on the liquid. Wherever it draws, it solidifies and creates the shape.

"It literally rises up out of the liquid," Luna said.

Luna is excited to offer Carlsbad and the surrounding area something that is different from the traditional jewelry store. He said he will be able to create anything on the market. It is important to him that he offer unique pieces, not only in his design, but also in ability and quality, to Carlsbad.