But, lets talk about the background picture, it is why i came here, why can i not put it in center at normal size? It makes no senseNow the computer is making weird whirring noise every 30 seconds, maybe fan dirt

Woah woah.. One thing at a time1. Yes the ps/2 port at the back of your PC is for both a keyboard or a mouse. Manufacturers save money because almost all mice sold nowadays are USB, so you only need to plug your keyboard there.

2. Are you sure it's the mouse that's freezing and not the PC itself? Can you do anything while the mouse is frozen like use the keyboard? If you are 100% sure it's the mouse, well, try a new one. Regardless, you should download and run Malwarebytes. Internet usage has no negative effect on peripherals by the way.

3. That's wayyyyy too much virtual memory you set. As a rule of thumb you should have double the size of your ram, however virtual memory isn't really used by programs anyway since RAM size nowadays is adequate in most computers. It should be set at 5-8gigs max. Did you have the shutdown problem before you set the virtual memory at 50gigs? It might be caused by this.

5. As for the background image, do you mean the desktop's background? It's pretty easy to set up in: Control Panel\Appearance and Personalization\Personalization\Desktop Background there's a section called Picture Position, assuming you're using Windows 7 of course.

Can you play other videos files? What codecs did you install?I suggest you uninstall everything and do a clean installation of K-lite Codec pack and use Media Player Classic, which is provided in the pack, for watching DVDs.

Can you play other videos files? What codecs did you install?I suggest you uninstall everything and do a clean installation of K-lite Codec pack and use Media Player Classic, which is provided in the pack, for watching DVDs.

RhombusHatesYou:Sounds like it might be time to pull everything apart, clean all the connectors and do a clean OS reinstall on top of that.

What? A full OS reinstall I understand, but how's pulling everything apart and cleaning the connectors going to help?

It almost certainly won't help as this sounds like a deep-code software issue. My bad.

Still, reseating all the cards and connectors isn't a bad habit to get into when you're about to do a clean install. Not necessary but it's as good a time as any (and better than most) to make sure everything's seated properly, take a bit of time to redo your cable management, chase out any small lizards from the case, clean the dust filters (and patch the hole the lizards are getting in through) and so on.

The cleaning part is unnecessary. Bad habit from dealing with people who let all the shit build up inside their cases to the point where a chisel would be a better option than compressed air for removing it.

Well, it certainly is a bad habit if you don't know what you're doing, see metalrock's posts on the previous page. Other than cleaning I wouldn't recommend messing with the hardware in any way if you're not absolutely sure you won't mess something up.

I know the only thing you can really upgrade in a laptop is the ram, and that 4gb is a reasonable amount already. And that using a GPU docking deck would cost alot of money, and i wouldn't really like to spend all that much.

I feel like i already know the answer, which is no, but still playing GW2 at 17 fps on low is a bit depressing. id really like to hit a stable 30fps without stuttering, and since bringing a desktop over to my dorm isnt really a option since i travel by bus, and they arent really "gentle" with luggage, im low on possibilities.

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

Thanks, i didnt know mini itx builds could do so well. Although its out of my price range. I was thinking of going a micro atx standard, i have a gtx 8800 at home that may or may not work, and i believe it can do some games on mid, ill just need all the other parts, the case, cpu, mobo, ram, hdd.

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

Off topic, but do you think a external SSD would work for my laptop, in by reducing load times for games? And if so, could you suggest a small sized ssd and the device i would need to connect it with. My laptop has a eSata port.

eSata is essentially a beefed up USB port, meaning that transfer speeds aren't going to be great. The logical thing to do is to replace the internal Hard drive with an SSD, and use the mechanical drive as an external one. Depends on the laptop though, older models don't support SSDs. You also need to make sure you can actually swap the drive.

eSata is essentially a beefed up USB port, meaning that transfer speeds aren't going to be great. The logical thing to do is to replace the internal Hard drive with an SSD, and use the mechanical drive as an external one. Depends on the laptop though, older models don't support SSDs. You also need to make sure you can actually swap the drive.

Hmm,i guess ill make my own build then.

I was planing to ask for a crappy refurbished small form factor pc for my X-mas present, since they are about the cost of a new case, and it comes with so much.

The first link doesn't work. You should note that unless you spend a hefty sum on a custom mini itx system, you're gonna end up with something as powerful as a low-mid end gaming laptop and only half as reliable. If you don't have much of a problem with lowering the details a little, something like this should fit your gaming needs.

The first link doesn't work. You should note that unless you spend a hefty sum on a custom mini itx system, you're gonna end up with something as powerful as a low-mid end gaming laptop and only half as reliable. If you don't have much of a problem with lowering the details a little, something like this should fit your gaming needs.

Eh i already have a laptop, and i dont like the temps i get when running anything. Thats why i want a desktop.

Ok this is a micro atx system, not a mini itx one.The one you came up with is meh. I suggest the following (too lazy to post links sorry)CPU: AMD A10-6800kGPU: integrated in the CPU, 8670DRam: 8 gigs, make sure it's 1866mhz.MoBo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3), or this which for some reason is ridiculously cheap but not much worse.PSU: Most 450-500 watt psus will do. Just make sure it's rated at least 80+ bronze. Corsair is a reliable brand.

This should perform better, consume less and it should be cheaper than your selection.

Ok this is a micro atx system, not a mini itx one.The one you came up with is meh. I suggest the following (too lazy to post links sorry)CPU: AMD A10-6800kGPU: integrated in the CPU, 8670DRam: 8 gigs, make sure it's 1866mhz.MoBo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3), or this which for some reason is ridiculously cheap but not much worse.PSU: Most 450-500 watt psus will do. Just make sure it's rated at least 80+ bronze. Corsair is a reliable brand.

This should perform better, consume less and it should be cheaper than your selection.

The pricing came to about currently 469, but will prob. raise a bit since i cant buy at this exact moment.

Still it looks pretty good, the only thing is this will be my first build. If you have any tips/how to guides that are good to follow i would appreciate it.

And also, is it safe to put a desktop in a suitcase assembled for travel? Or would the best option be to dissemble it, repack the parts in electro static bags to protect them, and then put it in the suitcase. (it is a very large suitcase)

Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

No need to worry about compatibility issues with those parts, although I'd recommend this psu instead, that antec one doesn't seem as reliable (its 80plus certification is probably fake as well).If you aren't in a hurry I'd suggest waiting till the next month when the new Kaveri APUs are released.

Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.

My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)

Rosiv:My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)

If you can try the graphics card in another system. IF a PSU is failing then a skilled electronics engineer could possibly repair it. Usually its faulty caps or shorted transistors i would not recommend working on mains voltage stuff if you are inexperienced.

Once the GPU is tested we will know more but i would hold off buying a PSU until you have tested it. Also don't buy a cheap PSU you risk your components and potently your own safety. if you give is the specs of the system then someone on here will recommend you a good one such as seaasonic they make PSUs for many brands including corsair you cannot go far wrong with them.

Slitzkin:Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.

Because the stock CPU fan that came with with my CPU, AMD A10-6800K, was getting 50-60 degrees Celsius on idle, and 80 degrees on load(playing a video game)

Now that i have the fan, my temps aren't really getting any better. As I'm typing this, my temps are around a constant 58 degrees.

I made sure to clean off ALL the thermal paste after replacing the old CPU fan, and the new CPU fan is on correctly.

Is the fan just crappy? Should I invest in a new one? Cause I don't have the money. I tried using MSI Afterburner to control the cpu fan speed, but I didn't get the option, and the program Speedfan, which i read was good for this sort of thing was very confusing to use.

Actually, now that i finished typing, the temp is at around 65 degrees.

That's a crappy cooler :P. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.

That's a crappy cooler :P. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.

I see, do you think i should disable the cool and quiet feature in the bios, and crank fan up to constant high? Or should i take my gtx 550 ti from my own home computer and instal it in this new one, so it would reduce strain on the cpu's graphics, if that is how it works?

What would be a good program to accurately get temps then on a load? Or should i just forget about it?

I kind of confused Cool n Quiet with Fan control[1]. CnC just throttles the speed and undervolts the cpu when idle to save power and reduce noise from the fans, it should be on by default [2].

You don't need to control the fans manually. The mobo's Fan control configures the speed so it's automatically cranked up when the temperature is high. Most motherboards allow some customization of their fan control like setting target temperatures e.t.c. You will have to check your bios settings for that. Temps could theoretically drop if you add the 550ti. I'd also recommend re-installing the stock cooler with a new layer of thermal paste, preferably one I recommend in my previous post. I use CPUID HWmonitor for temperature monitoring but in your case I don't think it would be of much use.

[1] each company names this thing differently, in Asus boards it's Q-Fan control, in Gigabyte and MSI it's usually SmartFan control or something along these lines

[2] CPUz will show ~800mhz clock speed instead of your APUs default 4100mhz when idle, if CNC is enabled.