Wednesday, 25 August 2010

"I do a lot of public speaking (demotivational only—there's far too much motivation in the world already)" Will Gadd

"Claiming to climb anything with Oxygen is BULLSHIT" Steve House

"The real "narcissist" is he who short cuts the experience and training necessary to climb that high by fair means and instead will do anything it takes (i.e. use O2, fixed ropes, sherpas, etc.) to get to the top.That is the person "who only cares for himself" in my opinion.Getting to the top of the highest summits used to be something that had to be earned, but now is simply purchased. And yes, the last time I checked, climbing was still dangerous." Vince Anderson

I Just have to be able do this 7b+ project on 5th go or I will throw my quick draws down the mountain and blame lack of motivation on 8A banning me! With out Glory-card all the fun in climbing is gone!

Wednesday, 18 August 2010

One way to deal with defeat is to get back on the horse and try again. To day I was banned from the site. A friend noticed it as I was out climbing. On facebook the boycott group is has some just criticism. 8a has its issues and its good sides. The good thing is the information exchange and route log data base. The bad side is the inability to lead a news site and the discussions that follows. His inconstancy and lack of ability to follow a stringent line and absorb other peoples arguments.

8a is claiming it has a anti chipping policy but you can't mention that one of the members in the Swedish Royal climbing Family is out there chipping away. He is a "legend" (if you ask Bjorn Stromberg) and a friend so lets not talk about that.

Some one asked why I even bother posting at the site and the only reason is to balance the picture 8a is painting. I'm not always right and as far as I know no one is right when it comes to climbing. It can be done as one like but some things are better than others. Style ethics etc.

I doubt I will be missed by many if any but I will kind of miss it. I mean for crying out loud what a fuck is wrong when you cant buy other peoples argument or at least accept them? Will I be back? I guess so...

Friday, 13 August 2010

If I did not know better I would have guessed that it was a April fools joke gone bad or that the Chairman of The Swedish Climbing Federation was on a intoxicated bender but its a fact. The Swedish Climbing Federation has via its chairman announced in National media that "they" the Federation will release a name policy for climbing routes. Offensive names shall be banned!

Interesting enough the chairman of the Swedish Climbing Federation has no board approval for this policy initiative. And at least two board members are disputing the proposed naming policy. From a technical point of view one can argue that the chairman has no right what so ever to start implementing or working on a policy unless told to do so by the general assembly.

All this after a local socialistic political activist wants to shut down a crag in Stockholm after finding the route names offensive. The theme on the crag is referring to Nazism. One of the routes is named Hitler. The description is "Short and evil".

First of all The Swedish Climbing Federation has nothing to do with the naming of routes and should have much more important things to devote its time to. The names appear only in a printed topo not on the crag. The topo is protected by the laws ensuring freedom of speech. Where is the world coming at when politics will decide route names?

Route names is a integral part of a creative process when putting up new routes. It can in a way be seen as a way to participate in the public debate commenting on what's going on around us but also as a prank. Good or bad. The political argument to close the crag is that the names marginalize the Natzi regime we all grew up to despise. If one buys that argument how can the world accept Charlie Chaplin? Shall we ban his mocking of Hitler? Shall we return to book burning?

A fun detail is that the climber finding the names offensive and who alerted the national media is carrying the family name Hess. I hope for her sake she is not related to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Hess

Monday, 9 August 2010

Once again Latok showed its visitors off. This time it was the Giri-Giri boys who where sent home with out getting very far. If I understand things right they first opted for a line on the North Face and I assume it must have been in the same area where Maxim tried. Then had a go at the ridge.

The North Face has an interesting line at its right hand up some feature that looks a bit like a "ramp" only it looks STEEP and exposed but it leads direct to the summit. This must in a way be the ultimate line on Latok. Is it to futuristic? I don't think so it looks kind of smart but way harder than the line we are opting for.

Looking at this link is interesting, almost fun... Why would any one in the right frame of mind even contemplate this project? Well its love.

Saturday, 7 August 2010

To day was a sad day for Swedish alpinism. Yet agin we lost a great talent to K2. Last time it was Daniel Bidner. All thoughts goes out to his friends and family. Fredrik was one of very few truly good Swedish alpinist/skiers and the fact that he was on a summit push with Gerlinde speaks volumes about his abilities.