Loosen clamp,back off adjustment fully,spin chain by hand[carefully] to make sure its running on bar and sprocket,,adjust tension up ,while rechecking chain alignment,then lift chain by hand at the top of the bar[the bar will also move up slightly] and adjust tension up till clearance between chain and bar is about 1/2 inch.dont let go the chain,while you lock up the clamps.then spin chain to recheck its on the sprocket properly.then try cutting wood.This procedure can apply to most chainsaws

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Remove cover on the chain side of the saw. Loosen the two hex nuts that hold the bar onto the saw. You will need to loosen the tightener screw also. Place chain back onto the bar making sure the chain is positioned properly in the sprocket at the rear of the bar and just reverse the directions. Tighten the tightener screw until the chain is tightened leaving a little slack, then tighten the two hex nut. Replace the side cover. When you pull the chain down away from the bar, it should have just a bit of slack not tight. This allows the chain to turn without a lot of friction. I hope this helps.

The bar is usually clamped with two hex nuts, you usually need to remove them, this allows the chain cover to come away, then wind back the tension adjusting screw ( with a flat blade screwdriver on a Husqvana other brands may be different ) back until the chain is loose enough to come off, the bar will also come off at this point.
It is a good opportunity to give everything a good clean at this stage and make sure the oil ways to the bar are clean and not blocked with wood dust, check the nose wheel on the bar spins freely and maybe grease it.
Put the new chain over the drive pulley the same way as the old chain came off, line it up in the bar slot and if you have the tension adjust wound back far enough for a new chain the bar will just flop over the two clamp bolts, replace the cover, and just do the nuts up finger tight so the tension adjust can be wound up to take the slack out of the chain.... not too tight ! it should still spin by hand without too much friction and you should be able to lift a link up half way out of the slot in the middle of the bar with your fingers.
Check the oil is getting to the chain by running at full speed with the end of the bar held just above a flat piece of clean wood, it should throw off a faint line of oil from the chain onto the wood.
Keep your chain sharp...
Happy sawing !

The 450E is a tooless system, make sure the brake is off by pulling the handgurd fully back to the top handle, flip up the lever on the big grey fixing nut, undo counter clockwise, wind the grey knurled adjuster wheel facing out of the cover fully back, remove the chainbrake side cover, push the guide bar fully back toward the sprocket, you now have enough rome to replace the chain onto the guide bar rails, now re fit the side cover, make sure the adjuster pawl in the cove aligns with the adjuster hole in the bar, re fit the big fixing nut finger tight, wind the adjuster wheel down to re tention the chain, when the chain is snug all the way around the bar tighten the nut fully.

Start by removing the bar nut/nuts, and remove the side cover, if the chainbrake is in the cover make sure this is off by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, before removing the side cover, wind the chain adjuster screw fulley in toward the rear of the saw ( it may be in the crankcse, or in the side cover ) now assemble the guide bar onto the bar bolt/bolts, loop the cutter chain over the sprocket,and into around the tip of the guide bar, and into the bar rails, make sure the sharp end of the cutters on the top of the guide bar are facing away from the saw ( the chain rotates clockwise as you look at it ) now align the adjuster hole in the bar with the adjuster pawl on the machine, now re fit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure this lines up with the adjuster hole in the bar, assemble the bar nut/nuts finger tight, adjust the chain so as it touches all the way around the guide bar ( not sagging on the bottom of the bar ) with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is free and sitting in the sprocket correctly, re adjust the chain if required, now lift the nose of the bar and fully tighten the bar nut/nuts

Start by making sure the chain brake is off, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle, now remove the two 8mm nuts securing the side cover, screw the chain adjuster in the crankcase fully back toward the sprocket, assemble the guide bar over the guide bar bolts and slide it fully back toward the sprocket, now loop the chain over the sprocket and lay it inthe guide bar raiuls and around the guide bar nose, make sure the sharo endge of the cutters on the top of the guide bar are facing away from the machine ( as you loog at it, it rotates clockwise ) now align the hole in the guide bar with the adjuster pawl, re assemble the chainbrake side cover back onto the saw, and fit the bar nuts finger tight, adjust the chain adjuster so as the chain is a snug fit all the way around the guide bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar manually, so as to make sure it is completly seated in the sprocket and bar rails, re tension if needed, hold the tip if the guide bar up and fully tighten the bar nuts.
Job done.

Start by removing the side cover held with one or two nuts ( make sure the chainbrake if fitted is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back toward the rear of the saw until there is an audible click ) if the chain has de railed you need to check for damage to the drive links, file away any burs, or fit a new chain, screw the chain adjuster fully back, assemble the guide bar onto the bar bolts and push fully back toward the rear of the saw, loop the chain over the sprocket and into the guide bar rails with the cutter teeth on top of the bar facing away from the saw if the bar adjuster pawl is in the crankcase make sure it fits into the hole in the guide bar, assemble the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure this lines up with the hole in the guide bar ( adjust the pawl screw if required ), assemble the bars nuts finger tight, now adjust the pawl screw so as the chain sits snuggley around the guide bar, pull the chain around the bar with a gloved hand to make sure it is sitting into the bar and sprocket correctly, lift the nose of the guide bar and tighten the bar nuts.

Assuming that you have a fueled engine saw instead of an electric type, remove the drive cover after releasing the chain brake and backing off CCW the chain adjuster screw. Remove the bar/chain and clean the assortment of parts including the small oil passages that are in the drive end of the bar. Wash out the interior of the clutch assembly with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry. Start the engine without the bar/chain and watch for oil oozing out of a small port in the side of the engine case. If nothing, check the oil pump, lines, and valve/filter within the oil tank. If ok, re-assemble the bar, then the chain over the sprocket and out over the bar. Extend the bar out to tighten the chain, and fit the cover to the saw. Tighten the fasteners finger tight, then adjust the chain up to the lower bar edge (the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run) but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the fasteners and recheck chain tension. Check chain oiling by running the bar tip at speed near a piece of cardboard for a few moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the board. Hope this helps!

Start by making sure it's unplugged. Then remove chain, and bar, and clean oil slot in the bar and all of the housing in the area the oil comes out onto the bar. I use carb cleaner (safer than gas) and then empty and clean the oil reserve. Refill with straight 30 weight. Never use car oil like a 10w30 or 5W40! Then prime (pump) and start the saw without chain or bar. You should see some oil squirt out. If not, soak a clean empty oil reserve overnight in carb cleaner and try again.Once the oil path is clean, you should be back in business. If not - see your authorized service center.....LOL

On the side of the saw where the bar (what the chain goes around/rides on) where it connects to the saw there are a couple nuts. Loosen them up, push the bar back towards the saw to put slack in the chain, wrap the chair around the bar making sure the bottom of the chain is in the groove on the bar and tip of the bar, then push the bar forwards away from the saw to take out the slack in the chain. Hold it tight and tighten up the two nuts. Depending on your model of pole saw, you may have only one nut and a plastic guide that keeps it straight. Same concept though. Loosen the nut, push bar in, put chain on, pull bar out, tighten nut.
If you've ever done it on a bicycle, it's the same concept. Loosen nuts on back wheel, push tire forwards and chain gets loose. Pull it backwards and chain gets tight.

OK. This is simple. Either the chain brake is engaged or the chain is too tight. Start by pulling back on the chain brake toward you. There should be a "click" if the brake was released. If the chain is still immovable, try resetting the chain tension.
1. remove the spark plug wire2. loosen the two clutch cover nuts3.hold the bar nose up and loosen the tension adjustment screw until the chain moves freely without becoming loose.4. tighten both clutch cover nuts with the bar held up.5. Pull the chain around the bar by hand. Loosen the adjustment if you feel tight spots.6. When the chain is properly tensioned,tighten clutch cover nuts securely. Do not overtighten!7. Check chain brake operation and release.8. Replace spark plug wire and operate saw.Hope this solution will Fixya.