Friday, 20 September 2013

A rather special pork terrine

More often than not I have an all-consuming craving to work with, cook and eat the "offally" bits of animals which just aren't that popular. And last week I really found the mother lode when, in the charmingly-named "rubbish" section at CORA hypermarché, I spotted half a pig's head. I just couldn't believe it: 2 KG OF PIG'S HEAD - FOR UNDER 7 EUROS (£5.90)!

As with my lovely pig's trotters, I know that many people simply recoil in horror at the (for them) ghoulish sight of a massive, severed animal's head (or "Eugghh gross - a dead head!", as my 10-year-old screamed in panic when she peeked inside the shopping bag...I HAD alerted her though!), but that is not what I see at all: to me it's just the top part of a beautiful, majestic carcass with exactly the same firm skin, creamy layer of fat and with lots of lovely but sadly under-utilized meat underneath - surely this cut should be treated with the same respect?

The best way to do this, I thought, was to turn it into a terrine using every edible morsel that the head - after simmering for five hours - would yield. I adapted (or rather simplified) the wonderful Tom Kitchin's Rolled pig's head recipe and the end result exceeded even my wildest dreams: it was UTTERLY delectable with a wonderful texture, warm with the spices and herbs and with a perfect ratio of meat, fat and skin - and UNBELIEVABLY easy to make (yes, REALLY!) And, on top of that, SO cheap: there is more than enough for ten people as a generous starter - that's 70 cents (60p) per person...

1/2 pig's head

2 carrots,
roughly chopped

2 celery sticks,
roughly chopped

1 large onion,
roughly chopped

2 bay leaves

1
sprig of fresh thyme

1 tsp of herbes
de Provence

1
tsp of ground cumin

1
tsp of fennel seeds

1
tsp of salt

1
tsp of pepper

Put the head, celery, carrots, onion,
bay and thyme into a very large saucepan. Cover with enough water,
bring to the boil, cover with a lid and simmer for ca 5 hours until
soft and tender.

Use a large
slotted spoon or set of strong tongs to remove the pigs' head from
the pan. Allow to cool slightly.

While still warm, pick off all the
meat, skin and fat. It will peel off really easily and you'll be left
with the two pieces of clean-scraped jaw in literally seconds. Do the
same for the ear – again you can just peel/rub off all the fat,
connective tissue and meat until only the thin sheet of cartilage is
left.
(The only other two unedible bits left will be a ribbed lozenge of thin bone - the
roof of the pig's mouth - and the eye which now resembles a cloudy-looking stone.)

Put everything into a big bowl and,
either with you hands or with a wooden spoon, rub/scrape it all
together into an uniform mass. Then add the spices, herbs and
seasoning and beat together until well-mixed-in.

Line a 30cm x 12cm cake or terrine tin
with cling film* at least double the size of the tin. Scrape in the mixture,
press down firmly and fold over the sides of the cling film. To press
and set the mix, place a couple of cans of beans or some other heavy
weights on top**.

Leave in the fridge for at least 8
hours until firm.

The terrine goes exceptionally well with this sharp salsa verde which cuts through the mellow richness beautifully:

Put 2 tbsp each of parsley, mint, gherkins, capers, olive oil and lemon juice in a food processor. Blitz into a smooth sauce, adding a bit of water if necessary. Season to taste.

Notes:

Check the simmering pot once in a while and top up with water if necessary.

Don't throw away the cooking liquor: strain and use as a wonderfully tasty stock for soups or casseroles.

*For years I've cursed the "line the tin with cling film" bit as it's SO impossibly fiddly - until I came up with this brilliant idea: I use sturdy freezer bags instead to overlap/cut to size. No more scrunched-up film sticking to your hands!

**I scattered my two bags of baking beans on top of the terrine instead of tins.

The terrine keeps - well-covered with tinfoil and double-wrapped in cling film - for at least a week in the fridge.
I didn't use the brain as it's not that easy to cook (for example, it simply falls apart when lightly fried like sweetbreads) - but I WILL give it a try next time: waste not want not!

About Me

I'm passionate about easy, tasty and affordable home cooking! I'm also a mother of two and I live in Brussels, Belgium. I'm a keen and enthusiastic home cook with a vast repertoire of "tried-and-tested" dishes - all easy to make and delicious to eat. I'm also a passionate bargain hunter and can often be found lurking in the aisles of Lidl and Aldi sniffing out their foodie treasures...