Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen: wild, eclectic menu

Published 4:00 am, Thursday, June 30, 2011

Cindy Pawlcyn, chef at Go Fish in St. Helena, Calif. on June 13, 2008.
Photo by Craig Lee / The Chronicle

Cindy Pawlcyn, chef at Go Fish in St. Helena, Calif. on June 13, 2008.
Photo by Craig Lee / The Chronicle

Photo: Photo By Craig Lee, The Chronicle

Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen: wild, eclectic menu

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Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen is a Napa Valley staple, but one that for too many years has fallen under my radar.

I reviewed the restaurant in 2003, when Cindy Pawlcyn, who had taken over the space formerly known as Miramonte a few years before, changed the concept and the name, but then I largely forgot about it.

Returning after nearly eight years was revelatory. This is a restaurant that has stood the test of time and looks as fresh today as it did when it opened.

The two-level interior, along with a charming patio shaded by a century-old fig tree, feels like someone's dining room. Walls feature black and white toile-like wallpaper, the back of the comfortable banquettes are covered in coordinating mattress ticking, and the seats are a rich brown vinyl. Pastel water glasses still add a subtle splash of color to the white paper-covered tables. For a quick drop-in bite, there's also a bar near the entrance.

The food has also remained true to form. Some of the most popular dishes are still available, including the roasted artichoke ($10.95); rabbit tostada ($16.95) with black beans, feta and red chile salsa; meat loaf ($17.95) with horseradish barbecue sauce; mushroom tamales ($17.50); Chinatown duck burger ($15.50); and Campfire pie ($9) with toasted marshmallow fluff, chocolate and Oreo cookie crust.

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Pawlcyn's menu has always been wildly eclectic, but leans more strongly toward Mexico and regional America, along with an easy-to-navigate wine list.

It feels as if little has changed, which means a lot. Oysters Bingo ($3.25 each) is a favorite at the Buckeye Roadhouse, a restaurant Pawlcyn started as a partner in the Real Restaurant group. She split from that group more than a decade ago, but this signature dish remains on the menu, as well it should. A takeoff on oysters Rockefeller, the shell is topped with spinach, garlic and a cheesy sauce.

Her achiote roasted pork tacos (three for $12.95) are what you'd get at a really good taco truck - gooey meat on a soft flour tortilla topped with pickled onions and cilantro leaves, with lime on the side for extra seasoning. It's nice to have them in this more refined sit-down environment where they taste even better washed down with one of the four rosé wines on the list.

Pollo loco ($22.95) is another great dish, a Mexican version of the Italian grilled chicken under a brick, topped with excellent avocado salsa and accompanied by cheese-stuffed poblano chiles.

The main disappointment was the chicken fried steak ($22.95). While I appreciated the mashed potatoes, the biscuit and even the flood of country gravy, the meat was the weak link - instead of being crisp on the outside, it quickly became soggy in the gravy. Beyond that it wasn't a very good fry because the coating had a raw floury taste.

The situation turned again with dessert (all $9), and it made me wish that more restaurants would return to straightforward desserts rather than the savory deconstructed concoctions that seem to still be the rage.

The strawberry shortcake was simple and satisfying, as was the pineapple upside down cake. Cindy's does it as well or better than anyone, proving once again why the cake is a classic.

What has improved noticeably since my last visit is the service. The waiters are quick to the table and know the menu; they dial up the personality if it appears a table of tourists wants to engage the staff, but tone it down when they see the diners are involved in their own conversations and want a minimum of fuss.

Our busboy did forget to tell the waiter we wanted coffee, but when we caught our server's eye, she was quick to correct the problem and didn't charge us because of the wait.

That's part of the reason Cindy's is appealing. It has a caring, local feel and a broad-based eclectic menu that continues to please just about everyone.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.

Michael Bauer is The Chronicle's restaurant critic. E-mail him at mbauer@sfchronicle.com, and go to sfgate.com/food to read his previous reviews. Find his blog daily at insidescoopsf.com, and follow him on Twitter at @michaelbauer1.