That's why I hardly play anymore. Sick of being the only one on my team with a brain. I capture objectives and hold them, everyone else just runs and guns, drives around in tanks and flies in the jets, then bitches when we lose. ------- USE TACTICS!!!

Thanks for shipping to my billing address in IL and not the shipping address I typed into your worthless website. Why even have me input it if you only use the PP address? Or maybe an email asking which address I wanted.

I guess I'm spoiled by FM. They called once to confirm I really wanted a 99' part since the last time I ordered from them I got a 97' part. I wish FM just sold everything I ever needed in the world.

Now I have to wait ANOTHER DAMN WEEK TO GET MY CAR ON THE ROAD. Never again will I order from Rosenthal.

Thanks for shipping to my billing address in IL and not the shipping address I typed into your worthless website. Why even have me input it if you only use the PP address? Or maybe an email asking which address I wanted.

I guess I'm spoiled by FM. They called once to confirm I really wanted a 99' part since the last time I ordered from them I got a 97' part. I wish FM just sold everything I ever needed in the world.

Now I have to wait ANOTHER DAMN WEEK TO GET MY CAR ON THE ROAD. Never again will I order from Rosenthal.

They did this to me twice, then I picked-up a Mazdaspeed account and never looked back.

I have yet to do this, aside from running new cables because the PO didn't install the Robbins top correctly.

Actually, it wasn't all that hard. Just frustrating in a couple of places.

Got a no-zip plastic top from M&T, along with their "economy" rain-rail because I wasn't sure of the condition of the one on the car, and figured that, like everything else, it was probably beat to hell.

The fitment of the top was good but not great. I mean, it fits on the car just fine, but I wasn't impressed by either the materials quality or the design. For $230 I can't complain too much, but it's definitely not OEM-quality. Instead of having pockets sticked into the top for the three tubular bows of the frame, for instance, it had a pocket only for the first one, and a pair of nylon straps to manage the other two. The straps came with alignment marks already scribed on them which, I am convinced, were put there only for comedic value

And definitely skip the "economy rain rail." It turned out to be nothing but a strip of canvas with a strip of brittle plastic sewn to it, and the plastic was already cracked in half when I took it out of the box. Utterly useless. Fortunately the old one was still serviceable.

It is not exactly hard to replace the tops, just a chore like you say. I have to replace the tops on both of my miatas this spring. I need to figure out if I want to cheap out or spend my money on good ones.

Edit: Just saw your second post. I definitely want rear windows that zip down and good rainrails, so I guess I will save up and go with slightly higher end tops.

Florida police have arrested a man for allegedly injecting cement into the rear-ends of women who came looking for “butt implants.”

A cocktail of substances including cement, glue and tire sealant were allegedly administered by 30-year-old Oneal Ron Morris. Mr. Morris is also a transgendered cross-dresser.

Sgt. William Bamford of the Miami Gardens Police Department in Florida said that the procedure took place in May 2010, after the as-yet-unidentified victim met with Morris to discuss the surgical enhancement.
“They agreed on the price of $700 for the procedure, which was intended for cosmetic purposes,” Bamford said.

What the woman got for her money was a series of injections containing a bizarre concoction of cement, super glue, mineral oil and Fix-A-Flat tire inflator and sealant, police said. The incisions were sealed with Super Glue.
Bamford said the victim was reluctant to come forward. She quickly went to two South Florida hospitals due to severe abdominal pain and infected sores on her buttocks accompanied by flu-like symptoms. But she left each time, too embarrassed to tell doctors what she’d done.

I did two top replacements in a couple months. first one had a glue seam failure. even more frustrating? the second one's defroster tabs were pathetically soldered onto the window after someone broke them off. they fell off about midway through the install and have not worked since (even with the repair glue paint kit).

the worst part of all of this? even though the supplier replaced the top for free, the original is still sitting in my front porch waiting for him to send a return label or even a return ADDRESS.

First top was ordered in late May. Replacement was sent out in October.

I suppose I should email them one more time and then maybe re-glue and sell it?

Edit: Just saw your second post. I definitely want rear windows that zip down and good rainrails, so I guess I will save up and go with slightly higher end tops.

Actually, I deliberately chose the no-zip plastic window.

On plastic vs. glass, my last top (on the red car) was a Robbins glass top, and while the top material was quite nice, the area where the glass meets the top is quite weak. Essentially, the top material is just glued directly to the glass, rather than having a proper NB-style mounting solution, with the result that the seam between the top and the glass started to fail after about 3 years, and the glass finally came completely un-stuck from the top at both lower corners.

So I figure that if I'm only going to get 3 years out of it anyway, I might as well go with the less expensive plastic window that offers better rearward visibility.

On zippered vs. non-zippered, I'm a lazy SOB who wants to just pop the latches and throw the top back, and then later just grab the top and pull it up and re-latch it, both of which I can do quite easily and quickly while seated without even unfastening the seatbelt.

On plastic vs. glass, my last top (on the red car) was a Robbins glass top, and while the top material was quite nice, the area where the glass meets the top is quite weak. Essentially, the top material is just glued directly to the glass, rather than having a proper NB-style mounting solution, with the result that the seam between the top and the glass started to fail after about 3 years, and the glass finally came completely un-stuck from the top at both lower corners.

So I figure that if I'm only going to get 3 years out of it anyway, I might as well go with the less expensive plastic window that offers better rearward visibility.

On zippered vs. non-zippered, I'm a lazy SOB who wants to just pop the latches and throw the top back, and then later just grab the top and pull it up and re-latch it, both of which I can do quite easily and quickly while seated without even unfastening the seatbelt.

I drive 500+ miles each way from SC to DC 4-5 times a year. After driving with the top down a few times I have found it makes the trip a whole lot more exhausting to have the sun beat down on you the whole way. With the top up and all 3 windows down you get most of the effects of the top down, but have the shade to keep you slightly cooler. That alone is worth extra to me to splurge on a top with a zipper window. Although my friend has a zipperless top that we installed 3-4 years ago and it still looks and works great. If I did not take long trips I would go with one in a heartbeat.

I drive 500+ miles each way from SC to DC 4-5 times a year. After driving with the top down a few times I have found it makes the trip a whole lot more exhausting to have the sun beat down on you the whole way. With the top up and all 3 windows down you get most of the effects of the top down, but have the shade to keep you slightly cooler. That alone is worth extra to me to splurge on a top with a zipper window. Although my friend has a zipperless top that we installed 3-4 years ago and it still looks and works great. If I did not take long trips I would go with one in a heartbeat.

That is a long trip. I now use earplugs if I am driving any distance at all on the freeway, and find it helps a great deal (plus a baseball cap for the sun). For country road driving, the plugs aren't necessary. But on the freeway, especially ours which are chewed up by snow tires and very noisy, the road noise is simply too much to put up with.

The ones I use are etymotics Er-20s (http://www.etymotic.com/hp/er20.html). I find they really cut down the ambient noise while still allowing the radio, conversation, etc to come through.