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Canyon de Chelly National Monument

Mummy Cave Ruins, Canyon de Chelly, AZ

After a couple of days at the breathtakingly large Grand Canyon, we were ready for something smaller and more intimate. If visiting the Grand is like going to a huge metropolis (complete with teeming sidewalks), Canyon de Chelly (“Canyon d’SHAY”) feels more like a quaint town. It is so cozy that you can explore the entire area in a single active day.

You access the bulk of Canyon de Chelly via two scenic drives along the North and South rims. You can visit all ten overlooks in about four hours. Budget more time if you want to while away an afternoon basking in the beautiful canyon scenery.

We were immediately struck by the greenery of Canyon de Chelly. Ribbons of lush trees decorate the canyon floor, in stark contrast to the dryness we found both at the Grand Canyon and in the nearby Petrified Forest. It’s no wonder that generations of Navajo have farmed these fertile grounds.

But the real treat here are the ancient Anasazi structures still standing throughout the park. The most impressive are those of Mummy Cave, named for the two mummified bodies found there by an archeological expedition in 1882.

The ruins tucked inside Mummy’s two adjacent caves are the oldest uncovered in the park. Some are believed to have been built around 300 A.D. The magnificent pueblo that bridges the two caves was probably the last structure built in the complex around the 1300s.

Canyon de Chelly is a unique National Monument in that it is entirely comprised of Navajo Nation land. The National Park Service and Navajo Nation work together to manage the park’s resources, but because many Navajo still reside in the canyon, visitor access is limited.

The two scenic drives are open to the public and free, but backcountry hiking or driving in the Canyon requires an authorized guide and permit. Visitors can purchase tours and schedule ranger led hikes at the visitor center. We chose to avail ourselves of the one and only self-guided hike at the park instead.

White House Trail, Canyon de Chelly

The trail to White House Ruins descends 600 feet to the canyon floor on a steep, rocky path, through a series of switchbacks. We passed through tunnels and along interesting canyon geology on our way down.

The highlight, of course, is an up close look at White House Ruins, a dwelling that had once been occupied for a millennium. We understand that visitors used to be able to walk inside the ruins. After years of tourist souvenir collecting, the park erected a fence to prevent people from getting too “up close.”

White House Ruins, Canyon de Chelly

The round-trip hike took us about two hours. We set out early in the morning and are glad we did. Not only did we avoid hiking in mid-day heat, we also missed the jewelry sellers and touts whose folded up tables were as quiet as the ancient relics.

Canyon de Chelly is located in Northeastern Arizona, outside the town of Chinle. Primitive (no hook-up) camping is available inside the park. Other accommodations are available in town.

It’s true that they look like little toys. Unfortunately, there isn’t anything in any of the frames to give perspective. For the most part, these things are off limits to tourists so you don’t even see people in the shots to get a sense of size. But people really did live in these structures, at one point. So that gives you some indication how big those cliffs are. Wow, indeed.

My husband and I visited both the Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly last autumn. We got to the Spider Rock overlook just before dusk, and it was magical. I loved the vastness of the Grand Canyon, but loved Canyon de Chelly even more for its intense history and the rural feel to the place. We got up early one morning and drove to one of the overlooks on the north rim. As we stood there, watching the sun gradually peer into the canyon, a cow started mooing. Right away, three or four other cows in other parts of the valley answered. The sound echoed throughout the canyon. It was humorous, but also gave a sense of the mystery of the place with those rock walls bouncing the sounds up and down the canyon. I loved it. Would happily go back. 🙂

WOW, WHAT A TERRIFIC PLACE!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR INTRODUCING IT TO ME. SUCH PLACES , I THINK, HAVE STORIES THEY CAN TELL US IF AND WHEN WE ARE READY TO LISTEN. LOOKING AT THE PICTURES IN SOME WAY MADE ME THINK OF E.M. FORESTER’S BOOK A PASSAGE TO INDIA. VERY INTERESTING BOOK AND LIKE YOU PLACE , FULL OF MYSTERY AS SUCH A PLACE HAS TO BE. THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN AND KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!

Beautiful! I have vague memories of visiting as a kid, and I’m pretty sure we were able to go into the buildings then, although I may have conflated it with other canyons in my mind (it would have been c. 1982-3). Thanks for reminding me. 🙂

Yes, I think you probably could tour the ruins back then. But there are several similar cliff dwellings throughout the Southwest so it’s also possible you remember someplace else . . . memory is funny that way. In either case, these are pretty special places.

I’ve never been there and will probably never make it. Your pictures are my only view into the canyon. I have a watercolor painting of the Pueblo between the caves hanging behind me on my office wall.
Your photos are outstanding.

I visited the Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly in June 1994, and will never forget it. The Canyon de Chelly is such an intimate experience and mysterious. I loved it. Congrats on being Freshly Pressed — and for introducing people to it.

great ! Looking forward to visiting that in August all the way from the Philippines. I might only visit it once, but I’ll definitely visit your site often. Congratulations on making it on freshly pressed, twice !

This is breathtakingly beautiful! I’m visiting the Grand Canyon for the first time in about a month, I’m hoping to have a look around and take some similarly beautiful pictures too. Thanks for sharing!

Great news travelers are coming here, and thanks for reminding me how great this place is. Also check out Mesa Verde, which was the center of the Anasazi Universe. While Canyon de Chelly does get a steady trickle it is WAY behind the famous SW parks. I even took awhile to get here, and I consider myself a “Western guy”. If anybody wants to do a Navajo-led tour, and is okay on a horse, I would highly recommend taking a Navajo-led horse-camping tour in the canyon. We did two nights, which is perfect to explore most of the canyons (there are really two). You are in the company of Navajo guides and you check out places no other tour goes to. We actually chased and tried to catch a wild young stallion on horseback (he escaped at the last minute with a tremendous leap). The Navajos do catch wild horses in the upper canyon, then within a day they have them broke to ride. They’re amazing horsemen. Sorry so long.

Thank you for the beautiful photos! I’ve read a lot of Tony Hillerman books, many of which refer to Canyon de Chelly. Now I can picture in my mind what it looks like when the characters in these books go into this area.