Nice work Mach. I like the way it shows off the differences in folder material and angle. The Romy gives you a chance at good sight picture without having to work so hard at bending. The others are a little better on recoil by being a straight line.

Nice work Mach. I like the way it shows off the differences in folder material and angle. The Romy gives you a chance at good sight picture without having to work so hard at bending. The others are a little better on recoil by being a straight line.

This is a little off the subject.

But is there anyway to get an AK-47 buttstock that has as more of a downward angle to it than the standard buttstock (like the one folder shown)?

I'm trying to find either a fixed buttstock, or even better an adjustable buttstock, that angles more toward the ground.

Since this is an AK building thread, it seems like an appropriate place to ask a question about the riveting of AK's.

Is there a wide variation in the quality of the rivets used to build AK's? Are the rivets heat treated or tempered in any way?

I'm asking this because I've just returned 2 AK's where the rear trunnion rivets bent backwards bad enought to cause the rear trunnion to separate slightly from the receiver.

This occurred on the IO Inc CASAR. Twice--on 2 separate rifles.

When the manufacturer uses cheap unskilled labor it's not much of a leap to think maybe they used rivets not designed for the shear loads imposed on them. They can get away with soft rivets in areas where the only load is tension but soft rivets yield under shear loading. Most of us that build AKs buy our rivets from AK-Builder.

When the manufacturer uses cheap unskilled labor it's not much of a leap to think maybe they used rivets not designed for the shear loads imposed on them. They can get away with soft rivets in areas where the only load is tension but soft rivets yield under shear loading. Most of us that build AKs buy our rivets from AK-Builder.

I'd like to thank you Mach on your tutorial,also to the others who post, great info. I haven't been to a BP due to my schedule, so I purchased all the necessary tooling I need from Curtis @AK-Builders. Just started my first build today and by following the tutorial step by step my build (first) is coming together. I can see why it is "ADDICTING",but I gotta watch myself ,wait till my better half finds out what I spent on tooling(lol). Again thanks .

I'd like to thank you Mach on your tutorial,also to the others who post, great info. I haven't been to a BP due to my schedule, so I purchased all the necessary tooling I need from Curtis @AK-Builders. Just started my first build today and by following the tutorial step by step my build (first) is coming together. I can see why it is "ADDICTING",but I gotta watch myself ,wait till my better half finds out what I spent on tooling(lol). Again thanks .

Be a kind and considerate mate and don't tell her how much you spent. It will just cause her extra stress.

Start with alignment. I use the rear sight base pin sticking out perpendicular from the base to match up to a bit I placed into the groove in the barrel for the RSB pin. Once it's very close, I'll start to install the rear sight block onto the barrel.

Using my press and an AR 15 multi-tool (you read right) I will secure the rear sight block and press the barrel onto the RSB. I'm protecting the chamber end of course. Hopefully everything lines up and the pin will just go in.

Finally, while securing the barrel, I'll use a socket with an inside diameter that's larger than the barrel muzzle, I'll press the front sight base onto the barrel.

If you get lucky, at least one of the two pins in both the gas block and the front sight base fits. That way both are secured onto the barrel so that they don't move while you ream the other hole to fit the second pin.

I do not see where you did a Go, No-Go check. I'm assuming the only way to establish the correct headspace is to keep pressing in tiny increments (how precise are the garden variety 20 ton presses in moving the barrel in hundredths of an inch when you get close?). I suppose the only way to fix too little head space is uglier - bash it out with a hammer and block and start over?

If there is any aspect of the build that worries me, it's the amount of time and effort in moving the barrel in tiny increments - testing and moving a little more. Sounds nerve racking. At a build party, I'm betting the press is in high demand - how long does it take on average to get the barrel pressed, tested and adjusted per build? How many have to start from scratch because they overshot the head space?