focus on the carrots,
soft and almost golden in their roasted goodness. They’re delicious
enough on their own. But then
you see (and smell) the glistening smoked pistachio butter.

The scent rising from the warm
iron plate brings your focus to
the sub-carrot ricotta layer, soft
and warm, with a lovely streak
of herbs throughout. Subtle
touches like star-anise-steeped
oil (in which the carrots are
roasted), and the tiniest finishing drizzle of orange blossom
honey make Bruce Weiszala’s
dish light up the vegetarian firmament.

Weiszala is as passionate and
careful about designing and
cooking a vegetable dish as he
is about preparing “a nice piece
of pork” or a traditional plate
composed of protein, starch,
and vegetable. He also believes
it’s important to have options
on a menu. Additional vegetable dishes, also deliciously rich,
include beets and cauliflower. (Please note that the Brussels sprouts are flavored with
bacon.)

Formerly the chef at Tabree,where he originally preparedthis dish, Weiszala was inspiredby the carrots from WesternNew York–based Green Her-on Growers at a Williamsvillefarmer’s market. “The carrotsare beautiful, bright and smalland sweet, with vibrant colors,”he says. “I wanted to come upwith a dish that highlightedthem.”He blends the smoked pista-chios with a little salt and vege-table oil into a “chunky peanutbutter texture.” The roastedsweetness of the carrots, com-bined with scratch-made ricottaproduces supreme creaminess—this buttery, cheesy, nutty dishis grown-up comfort food, in thenicest possible way.