Directions

Preheat the oven to 425F. Cut the squash in half, scrape out the seeds and save them. Cut each half into thirds. Put squash (without the seeds) in a large baking dish or roasting pan with the pears and all but a few slices of the ginger. Brush oil, season with salt, and bake until fragrant and tender, about 1 hour. Turn the pieces once or twice so that they have a chance to caramelize on more than than one surface. If the squash seems very dry (some varieties are), add 1 cup water to the pan to create steam and cover with foil. When the squash is tender, transfer everything from the pan to a cutting board, add 1 cup of water to the pan, and scrape to dissolve the juices, reserving the liquid. Scrape the flesh of the squash away from the skins. You should have about 2 cups.

To make stalk, bring 6 cups water to a boil and add seeds and eventually the skins, the remaining ginger, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 20-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a soup pot. Add the onion, give it a stir, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until it begins to brown a bit and is flagrant, about 10 minutes. Add the ginger, pears, and squash then deglazing water. Strain the stock into the pot. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes. Cool briefly, then puree until smooth and pass through a food mill or a strainer to ensure a silky texture. Serve as is or a swirl in the sour cream.

For presentation, dice a pear or an apple, sprinkle with a little sugar, and caramelize in a little butter or oil.