COMMUNITY FORUM

Leaking PVC

Last week after a severe cold spell I noticed a wet spot on the ceiling tile in my basement. I thought it was a sweaty pipe due to condesnation from the furnace running constantly. I took out the tile, wrapped the pipe in insulation, and replaced the tile only to have the spot move.

The pipe that is leaking is a PVC pipe that is part of the well. It comes in through the concrete at about 3 ft. above the floor, runs vertically, then goes 8 inches to the left where it runs paralell and right next to the floor joists. My leak is right at the corner connector where it turn run with the floor joists. It is a fairly slow leak, probably a drip every two minutes or so, depends a lot on the amount of water being used in the house.

Any suggestions????? I thought about trying a spray on sealer, but I'm not sure how I could shut down the water for a couple of hours to let the area dry and then let the sealant dry.

If the ebow is leaking, you will need to replace it. You will need to cut the pipe on each sied of the elbow and use a short piec of pipe on each side of the elbow along with couplers to connect the new pipe to the old. alos you will need some pvc solvent and cleaner to use during the installation of the new pipe and fittings.

JMHO

Carl

LonnythePlumber

11:09AM | 01/02/05

I agree with Carl that you will probably have to replace the portion of the piping that is leaking. While some have used an expoxy it does not always work or last. Our plumbing codes only approve replacing the fitting or pipe.

Primer is preferred over cleaner and is really necessary to activate the atoms in the piping. The cements (glue) are different for CPVC and PVC piping. A shut off valve inside your basement would be handy. I presume your expansion tank must be after the leak. It sounds like you have a submersible pump. You can shut off the electricity and pull the pump out of the pitless adapter at the well drop if this is your type of system. Adding a valve inside would be value.

Thanks guys! I appreciate the advice. I will probably have someone come in and do it rather than attempt that one myself.

The pipe runs about 25ft. from one side of the basement to the other. I recently finished half of the basement and half of the pipe is covered by ceiling tiles. How much of the pipe needs to be removed from the elbow that is leaking?? Please tell me that the entire length of pipe does not have to be removed!!??!! I have my computer table underneath the leak and a ceiling mounted tile system...what a headache just to remove tiles and move furniture!!!

LonnythePlumber

04:12PM | 01/02/05

You usually only have to replace inches unless it is a split in the pipe. Glue couplings on existing pipe is acceptable and a best practice.

Right now, the leak is going at about a drop a minute (give or take some depending on the water usage in the house). What are the odds that this is going to get worse? What kind of urgancy should I have in getting this looked at??

Thanks again!

LonnythePlumber

04:23PM | 01/02/05

With plastic it can get bad fast. It would be unwise to leave the house with the water on. It would be best to identify exactly where it is leaking. A split is bad. If it's the pipe to fitting connection you may have more time. Use a flashlight and towels and find the leak or you may not get a good sleep.

I've got the one ceiling tile removed where it is leaking. It is definitely where the pipe is connected to the elbow. I've got a plastic dropcloth underneath the leak covering my computer table with a bunch of paper towels catching the drips.

Thanks!!!!!!

LonnythePlumber

04:54PM | 01/02/05

Back pressure from turning a faucet off is a couple of times stronger than supply pressure. The back pressure likely knocked this fitting loose. It was probably not the best joint to begin with.

It makes me feel better to know that you've identified the leak. It would be good for you to know how to shut your water off.