Fujifilm X-T1 Review

After starting at the top-end with its X-Pro1, Fujifilm has been steadily expanding its X-series mirrorless camera to appeal to a broader audience. With its X-T1, Fujifilm has moved back towards the high-end, offering a fully-loaded mirrorless camera in a weather-resistant, SLR-style body. There's plenty more where that came from - the X-T1 has one of the largest EVFs we've ever seen, numerous manual control dials and, for the first time on an X-series camera, an optional battery grip.

The 'guts' of the X-T1 are very much like those found on the recent X-E2. This includes the 16 megapixel X-Trans CMOS II sensor (with on-chip phase detection), EXR Processor II, built-in Wi-Fi, and full HD video recording. The main differences between the X-T1 and X-E2 are the LCD (tilting vs fixed) and EVF (in terms of magnification), the maximum burst rate (8 vs 7 fps, now with focus tracking at full speed), a flash sync port and, of course, the design. But more on that later.

As you can see, that's quite a spec sheet. The highlight on the X-T1 is undoubtedly its huge electronic viewfinder, which is even slightly larger than the optical viewfinder on the Canon EOS-1D X. Combine that with its excellent resolution and it's truly a pleasure to use. The large EVF also allows for some neat tricks, such as 'Dual View', which shows the full scene plus a magnified view in a smaller window to one side, with focus peaking or digital split image for manual focusing. The EVF also has a portrait orientation view, which keeps the camera settings at the top and bottom of the image when the camera is rotated 90 degrees.

Another feature of note is the camera's weather-resistant body. Using more than 75 seals, the X-T1 is dust and water-resistant, and freezeproof to -10°C/+14°F. The X-T1 is also chock full of dials on its top plate, allowing for easy adjustments to ISO, shutter speed, and exposure compensation. Under two of those dials are switches for drive mode and metering.

Fuji has made some big claims about performance, saying that the X-T1 has the 'world's fastest AF of 0.08 seconds'. Whether that's true or not, the X-T1 is certainly an impressive improvement over early X-series cameras, which haven't been as competitive in the autofocus arena as their peers. The X-T1 can also shoot at 8 fps with subject tracking - the best of any X-series model - and it's also the first camera to support ultra-fast UHS-II SD cards.

One thing that the X-T1 doesn't have is a built-in flash. Instead, Fuji has bundled a small external flash, which has a guide number of 8 meters at ISO 100. The camera offers a flash sync port, in addition to its hot shoe, for attaching studio strobes.

The most direct competitor to the X-T1 is certainly the Olympus OM-D E-M1. The X-T1 has a larger APS-C sensor, but lacks the E-M1's in-body image stabilisation that works with all lenses. Aside from this they're very similar, both in terms of design and features. But given its pricing and feature set, we suspect Fujifilm also has the Canon EOS 70D and Nikon D7100 in its sights.

Kit options, lenses, and accessories

The X-T1 is priced at $1299 / £1049.99 / €1199 body only, or $1699 / £1399.99 / €1599 with the 18-55mm F2.8-4.0 lens (which is not water-resistant). It is available in black only (sorry, silver fans).

When Fujifilm released an updated lens road map at CES 2014, it kept something secret: that several of the lenses on it will be weather-resistant to match the X-T1. The lenses in question are the XF 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 R OIS WR, XF 16-55mm F2.8 R OIS WR, and XF 50-140mm F2.8 R OIS WR. The bad news is that these lenses won't be available until the middle of this year.

The X-T1 with battery grip and XF 55-200mm F3.5-4.8 lens

VG-XT1 battery grip

MHG-XT hand grip

One accessory that you won't find on any other Fujifilm X-series camera is a battery grip. The VG-XT1 holds an additional WP-N126 battery, allowing for 700 shots in total (CIPA standard). Naturally, this grip also comes with additional buttons for holding the camera vertically. But given the camera's reliance on its top-plate dials, this ends up limited to the shutter button (with encircling lock switch), plus AE-L, AF-L, and Focus Assist buttons.

If you just want to make the standard grip a bit larger, Fuji also offers the MGH-XT hand grip. Like the recently-released updated grips for the X-Pro1 and X-E series cameras, this has a cut-out to allow easy access to the battery compartment, and incorporates an Arca Swiss-type quick release fitting for tripod use. We think this will offer better handling if you shoot the X-T1 with larger zooms.

I am very impressed with the image quality of the XT1 but I am very disappointed with the build quality of this camera. Less than a year of using it and it's starting to come apart already. The rubber cover has already peeled off, the doors that covers various connection won't close already and the dials are so hard to move and sometimes just stuck. Took it to the Fujifilm Philippines repair center and my warranty was not honored and they were asking me almost $300 in repairs. They said the dials are stuck because of corrosion caused by dust and water (whatever happened to that highly regarded "weather proof" capability). Again, I love the image quality of this camera but this is not something I will recommend due to its build quality. Definitely not an alternative to the Leica.

"The X-T1 completely eclipses the old LEICA M240 by comparison. This Fuji is faster and cleaner, is at least as well made optically and mechanically, it has more and better external controls and ergonomics, has far superior autofocus, and has a decades-better viewfinder — oh, and the LEICA's EVF electronic finder is offshored to China and made out of plastic!"

One of my main reason for buying this camera was build quality (I love made in japan products in general) but unfortunately it's not as durable as to be intended , The rear dial is dead and top plate dials are not as steady as before in a short period of time( less than a year) . I have a lot of Sony gadgets since years ago but none of them faced a problem due to a quality issue .they are really durable.My 10 year old made in japan vaio laptop is working pretty good yet and all my sony cameras never have a problem yet . Fuji please don't ruin reputation of japanese product with your low quality (or quality control issues) products. if X-T1 was made in china I wouldn't have these expectation really.

Extremally poor quality of rubber grips (flat under the thumb after 4500 clicks!) - left rubber door - making all the water resistance a JOKE - and many other really poor quality issues. regards - Thomas.

This is an excellent review but with all due respect, it could use an update. The Firmware upgrade version 3.0 has made this an even more fantastic camera! IMHO.

The features and overview described here do not reflect the cameras current state and I think that the camera, and Fuji deserve a more accurate representation of their product as so many people come to DPreview for information prior to purchasing a camera.

As I see it, Fuji seems to be the only major manufacturer that offers such fundamental changes to their cameras and lenses trough Firmware updates and that should be noted and applauded.

I bought Fujiflim X-T1 on 24 Dec 2015, and I love this camera. but recently say in Feb 2015, I found that the rubber skin on the surface and on the camera lens zoom ring started to loosen up. The lens is 18-135mm the rubber sufface had shows sign of detachment so are the rubber sufface on the Camera.Then come last month in early April 2015 the Camera Flash fail to fire. I had try to shoot in forced flash to test it but the Flash that came along with the X-T1 failed.

The last problem i found is the Shutter Speed Dail had also show its problem As i move to dail to adjust shutter speed. The metering dail also follow to move. The Shutter Speed dail seems to had also failed.

Can I have my X-T1 replaced? Just bought Dec 24th 2015 and now all these problems pop up.

Can Fujiflim make their flag ship camera tougher..? and easier to hold on too, ? Why must we bought extra handle for such so called well designed camera?

Recently I've got a fuji AX1 with the kit 16-50 and got two lenses.18-55 and 55-200 . Now I have a question.Do U recommend me to change my body ang go for XE2 or XT1 or not? Does it make a large different in IQ .?since I have that 2xf lenses? Or no? I am not a professional just a beginner

There will always be a new model - for X-T1 not this year any more (first X-Pro2 is coming probably end 2015).

But simply ask yourself:- which feature of the new model are you missing at the X-T1, which prevents you from taking good pictures TODAY?

- how many good pictures don't you take the next months, since you don't have the camera TODAY?

If you can put a camera to good use today - then buy one you like today and don't wait for the things, that may come next year.Just because there may be a newer model some day your existing camera does not suddenly stop taking great pictures - and if you really need one of the new features you can usually sell the exiting body for a good price.

By the way - besides the camara-body there are more important factors to take good pictures - most important the skills of the person taking them and having a camera at hand in the right moment at the right place. Then good lenses... the body is the least important part.

The Fuji jpeg colors are for me unmatched, not even by the NX1. With the X-T1 I've more options to travel light than that still more bulky NX1 ! Even if i want go more pro-ish I've the 56mm f1.2 or the pro-zooms or all the other lenses FUJI is famous for.

What the reviewer says about ISO accuracy is fascinating and matches my experience with the X-T1 (assuming I understand the iso accuracy part of the review correctly!)

I have a Canon 6D and I kept being surprised when first shooting with the X-T1, because it seemed (in aperture priority mode) to be choosing a slower shutter speed for a given scene at a given ISO than I was used to.

I wondered if I was imagining it, so I set the two cameras up together and shot the same scenes and found that this was consistently the case. For a (fictitious) example, when shooting the same scene at ISO 1600 at f/5.6, the 6D would suggest 1/30th and the Fuji would suggest 1/15th.

It changes how I shoot because with the 6D, I know exactly the degree to which I can lean on the image stabilisation in low light. My instincts don't apply to the X-T1 in the same way and I find I need to be much more careful about keeping steady.

Shutter speed of 32000 of a second and if you set it in the menu to es + ms. It automatically changes from mechanical shutter to electronical from 4000 onwards. So you can still use the flash upto 4000. Awesome free update.

Mike if you have a look at the offerings of Canon and Nikon in the UW lenses, virtually none have OIS. I love OIS, but in long lenses when hand holding in low light is a problemGenerally if you are shooting wide, if the shutter speed is getting so slow that you need OIS, you are better off using a tripod. At these shutter speeds, if shooting people you are going to get movement artefact, and if shooting architecture etc much better on a tripod. Have a look at the premium SLR wide lenses

what? try making sense when you type, it makes your time more valuable to you and those who read your comments!what the hells a post office got to do with me contemplating fuji bringing out an x camera with 24mpx apsc sensor, or is this a thinly veiled[failed] attempt at humour using sarcasm?

I just realized that the camera is designed only for ambient light. I tried to expose in manual mode with flash and the screen and viewfinder are black. In manual mode the screen/viewfinder shows the correct exposition for ambient light, but it does not work if I want to expose only the flash light. If someone know how to solve this issue please let me know. Don´t tell me please that this is it, and there´s no solution for that.

Hmm, check to see if there is a viewfinder boost mode. My EM1 has the same problem, very irritating, but if I turn on viewfinder boost I can at least see what I am shooting when using strong flash, though I lose wysiwyg.

I have just taken possession of my new camera - very nice, but don't expect to use it with an iPhone if you value your sanity - the feedback I left in the app store: "You buy the lovely Fuji X-T1 and you want to connect to your iPhone or iPad. Your manual tells you that you need the Fujifilm Camera Remote. You install it and select your camera in wifi settings, as directed. There are four panels on your iPhone screen: Remote Control, Receive, Browse Camera, Geotagging (because the camera has no GPS, in this day and age…) It works about right once you manage to connect, but if you want to change from one panel to the next, you have to disconnect, then go back to your iPhone wifi settings, reconnect laboriously by going through settings in the camera ... Once you’ve done it a few times, you come to the conclusion that the app is worse than useless and you forget it to preserve your sanity..."Has anybody had a better experience with this aspect?

I got the app as soon as I got the camera too. It does have some issues connecting some times, but the Geo Tagging feature is great IMHO. I can GEO tag when I choose to. I have also not had a problem connecting an ipad Air 2 in order to receive photos from the camera which is great to get a bigger view before I get home for RAW post.

The xt-1 is a great camera let down by a few nasty bits.Both the 'doors' on the camera are unbeleivably frail.X-pro1 ones seem like tanks in comparison. I love the flush buttons on the back as I've been prone to connecting with buttons on digi cameras over the years I don't want to.Like the x-pro and the x100 series the exposure correction dial has a mind of it's own and is never where I left it.Pictures are superb and in my opinion rival anything from anywhere else including some full frame cameras. Certainly better than either of my Nikon DSLR's.The x100s is my perfect street camera lacking little and with stunning results.The x-pro1 is my Leica M substitute used alongside the x100s with a 35mm lens and the optical finder it's just a pleasure to hold and use.The xt-1 is a week or two old and going to replacing one of the DSLR's (need one for action).Don't forget the picture is the 'thing' and the 'thing' that makes the picture is the one pressing the button not the bits in between!

I've had the X-T1 for a couple of months now and just want to say kudos to Fuji. This is the first camera in decades that's inspired me to get out and take photos. I think it's the manual controls that I've been missing. I've been slowly lulled away to programmable buttons and touch screens, all the while not realizing I really missed the feel of my Olympus OM 35mm cameras of the 70's. Thanks to Fuji, it's great to be back.

I really wanted to love this camera. But, I opted for the OMD EM1 which I'm not disappointed with. It certainly has its own issues - too much crapware - but the images appear neutral and true and very detailed when enlarged.I think I would have liked the Fuji colors more than Olympus and Fuji has a very good set of lenses. It's a great design and better built (more metal) than the EM1. My reasons for not buying it:

- It needs a deeper handgrip- The dials were a little too difficult for me to finger/thumb flick. Granted, they are much stronger than the EM1's plastic buttons but they were too stiff for me.- The eyecup needs to be deeper. I wear glasses and am left-eyed. I couldn't get to the back buttons which, yes, are a bit spongy, but, usable.

I also looked at the XE2 which was easier to use because the viewfinder is on the left. But, still the dials were a bit too stiff for me to flick.

I hope Fuji reads this, makes some changes and I might become a buyer:)

The XT-1 is a much higher spec camera than the 5300. The XT-1 has far more manual control, but that only matters if you intend to use manual control. The Nikon only has one control dial - this will limit you if you intend to learn to shoot with more manual settings. If however you intend to shoot on 'auto' settings, the XT-1 will be a total waste of money - Fuji make cheaper cameras that would suit you better.

The D5300 and XT-1 are not competitors, the XT-1 is much more similar in spec to the Nikon 7100. I suspect that if you have to ask this question, then you do not need an XT-1. Also note - Fuji lenses are much more expensive than most Nikon APSC lenses.

The Nikon is very big for an entry-enthusiast camera, there are many mirrorless cameras like the Sony a6000 with better/same performance, a similar price, and much smaller size.

It does not sound like you need an XT-1, unless you are extremely ambitious, in which case you would not be looking at a 5300.

the 5300 has full manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, auto and full programme modes all easily accesible.It has much faster, more reliable auto focus, an excellent 24mp sensor, Nikons full lens range and some superb 3rd party alternatives from Sigma, Tokina and Tamron for example.In terms of actual pic quality, it will outperform the fuji if used with the best glass you can afford.If I had £2000 (the cost of the Fuji and a fuji zoom lens or two)I'd go for the 5300 with something like Nikon's 24-120, or Sigma's amazing 18-35 f1.8 instead. Indeed, the latter will save you near £700 and blow the fuji away image wise.The fuji wins hands down imo on looks, build, image, weather sealing and easy to reach controls. A nicer ergonomic feel if you are a traditionalist.

I'm not at all convinced that the Nikon would have a faster more reliable autofocus. The saying 'DSLR's have better autofocus' does not apply when we are talking about an entry level DSLR and a semi-pro mirrorless.

The modes (aperture priority etc) you list on the D5300 are all easily available, but there is only one control dial, so shooting manual is borderline pointless. Great you can change aperture, but oh no not exposure now!

Why on earth would you recommend the Nikon 24-120 on a crop sensor body? You're talking about a £700 full-frame lens.

Define 'blow away' image wise? Fuji have fantastic lenses, and 16mp combined with their excellent auto-balance could well mean better images out of the body than the entry Nikon.

I owned a 5100, it was a great camera, but it gave me nothing a far smaller camera like the Sony a6000 wouldn't do better now. Entry DSLR's are a waste of space literally, you can get that sensor in a much smaller body for the same price with better autofocus.

is there a way to show on screen / in VF, the 35mm equiv focal length that you're at when using a zoom lens? Sy you have it to your eye and quickly want 35mm, or 50mm equiv. You have to look at the lens barrel which seems clumsy.

Today I bought a black X-T1.I foung it very loud when turned on. Is there a cooling fan in it? It is so loud when I record a video there is a constant not very quiet noise at the audio.Has someone else this problem? I know from my SLR it makes no soung it is quiet. But what is that in the X-T1?

Just received mine and discover the same "fan" strange noise yesterday. Does not seem to be linked with a focusing activity. Very annoying. Also found screen and eye finder flickering in artificial light. Seems a very nice camera but will return ASAP.

All the bells, dials and whistles on this one. I handled her once. Nice! But surprisingly heavy. The impression of weight (and a lasting impression of value.. what a make!) was increased by its relatively compact size.

Nice shots. Can you say a bit about how they were processed? I think in some shots the skies are a bit overdone, they have a Kodak feel to them (deep blues, nearly completely white clouds) which is a bit distracting.

i agree. I have tried silky pix, iridient developer and capture one pro, they all do little bit better job than lightroom, but I have gone too much down the road with LR for last many years. Yes lightroom sucks with Xtrans files but to be honest, I feel same way for all other processors i mentioned. None of the above could show me significant improvement over LR 5.4. Yes, the skins tones look better on Capture one, the sharpness and no water color effect on photoninja or silkypix but then I have everything catalogued in LR and cannot afford these minute improvements over the convenience of my workflow. I agree, I have difficulty processing these pix, however since I shoot raw and keep all raw for all my keepers so I am hoping that one day there will be a good processor for Xtrans files.

Hi. Your reply interested me as I have been shooting with a d700, waiting for Fuji to bring out an X-pro 2 with a full sensor. I had the x-pro 1 and found it tedious. How do you pics compare to your d700, and have you tried to print out in large sizes?

I will be getting a book printed soon with BLURB (which I always use to print the photo books). D700 is a beast, the reasons you may want to get to mirorless world are (i) reduce the weight (ii) be discreet on the street, both these cannot be a achieved by any full frame body and lens. Probably a full frame from fuji will suffer same problems.

I didn't see any dial for A,S, or P priority mode. I'm sure that this can be control by the shutter and Aperture auto positions. Still, I think that there should have been some discussion on there use. Sop, how do you set Programmed Priority AE mode?

I tried focussing on a foreground subject ....half pressed it so I got the confirmation .... then I reframed it by positioning the subject to the side of the frame while still half pressing the button....then I took the shot and the original subject is totally sharp and in focus.

As far as I can tell the focus lock function works fine.

I would be amazed if fuji hadn't got this right and somehow missed it or purposely ignored it as a design flaw.....

Probably this has been discussed already but I am looking at the static samples on page 17 and the image looks out of focus to me. I am looking at the paint brushes and sponges on the bottom right and they clearly are fuzzy vs other cameras. Is it a camera issue or what?thanks.

Am I the only one who is seeing a focus lock problem with the Fujifilm X series cameras in AF-S auto fucus mode (at least with the X-E2 and the X-T1)?

I am NOT talking about the issue of needing to put the AF Mode switch in the front of the camera to M for the AF-L button to be functional that everyone is aware of. Of course I was NOT using AF-C mode and complain about focus change like an idiot either.

I was in a Fujifilm showroom displaying most of their products somewhere in Asia yesterday. I spent about two and half hours trying out the X-T1 and the X-E2 and loved most features and ergonomics with the two cameras (image quality is a given that goes without saying). However, I realized a serious defect with both cameras. The focus lock actually DOES NOT lock focus very well, no matter which button you use to hold focus (shutter release on the top or AF-L on the back).

(Part 2)No matter which lens I mated the cameras with (about four to five of them), after you think you’ve locked focus by the confirmation green light and the beep sound, you move your focus area away from the subject to re-frame for better composition like everybody normally would before taking a shot. The subject would be slightly out of focus (when it is not at the focus point at the time when the shutter release was pressed)!

After I found out about this issue and asked the Fujifilm rep, he actually QUIETLY confirmed my finding. We were very curious why no one brought this up in the their review. Now you understand why I withheld the exact location of this showroom earlier.

Did the reps and I do something wrong? Is there anybody else that has the same experience? If you do, how do you go about it?

I am on the verge of buying the X system as I like everything else so much. This focus problem is absolutely a deal breaker. Anybody in the know, please shed some light. Thank you.

OK...let's precisely analyze what you are saying to prevent misunderstandings: you have focused on a certain subject (a direct important issue is already: what method of focusing you use and how great is the chosen focus rectangle) and then you block the the focusing distance via half pressing the shutter button, correct? And next you go back to the initial subject, keeping the button half pressed and then your main subject should be out of focus? Or this happens after you discontinue the the focusing preset?

unless your focus point (after AF lock) is on the exact same focus plane as your pre-focus, this method of focusing will fail on all cameras. With flexible AF points I always drop an AF point on the subject I wanted and take a shot, "half-press then recompose" method does not work well on large aperture/large image sensors.

My apologies to all previous posters. I did not receive any notification of your reply so I couldn't respond sooner.

What I did was the most typical method of using AF-S mode, i.e. I aimed the camera at my subject, let's say using the center focus point on a face; half-pressed the shutter release to lock focus; recompose the shot (panning the camera away to position the face on one side of the frame while nobody was moving); and the focus on the face would drift. That was my original observation.

However, since no one else echoed having this issue with their Fujifilm X series cameras since my posts on different websites. I guess it was purely my paranoia. And for paul simon king, your best bet would be to try out the camera on your hands, or your wife's for that matter and decide if the camera is good enough for her.

Remember, the focus plane is a _plane_, not a sphere centered around the camera. So if you reframe just by rotating the camera after focusing on something, the focus plane will rotate as well, and the target object will now be out of focus... In many cases the error will be too small to be noticeable (although it's always there), but if you're using an extremely shallow DOF on very close objects, this effect can indeed screw up your focus.

But this is the case with all cameras, it's not a bug with the X-T1. [I guess it would be possible to actively compensate for this effect, but it would require sophisticated tracking of your movements...]

DPR : error on page 15 of the review ? At the bottom of the page, on serveral places, when you're talking about "iso 100" mode, the graph shows iso 50. I think there is a mistake in either the graph or the text.

The cover for SD slot indeed is fragile and is loosely fit to the body which begs the question as to whether the SD slot is exempt from X-T1's -10 C weather-seal spec.But you know, once you hold this camera, it makes you feel like you've been using it for decades - I just can't wait to see the weather-sealed zooms that aren't announced yet and most probably it's a matter of time that this camera becomes my buddy.

I received my X-T1 six days ago and installed the Sandisk ExtremePro 32Gb card and took the camera to the Air Show at Ocean City this weekend. The results for Saturday, using the 55 - 200 mm lens, including single shots, high-speed bursts and video were outstanding.

The problem came when I removed the memory card. When I did that the outer plastic cover of the memory card slot cover popped off. The inner metal slot cover now sticks out at a 90 degree angle from the side of the camera. There seems no way to reattach the plastic outer cover and I may have to cover the slot with black plastic tape to finish tomorrow's Air Show.

It's hard to believe that this fine camera, whose designers appear to have paid so much attention to detail, could have designed and assembled a part that gets such potentially heavy use as a memory card slot cover so cheaply that it would make the manufacturer of a Dollar General P&S camera blush. Color me disappointed.

I think the DSLR market is changing. and I think the miniaturization photo via iphone, not yet touched Canon and Nikon. I know that fuji challenge, but there are still doubts. good photo, less weight.I'm in Brazil and unfortunately we can not experience this machine. I'm curious to use the work of parliamentary advice and see if I can replace the brick 1d MK IV. Anyone know how to say the performance of the lenses Fujifilm XF 56mm F1.2 and 23mm F1.4 R?

Not sure 'not yet touched Canon and Nikon' is accurate, least not Canon.. have you seen the SL1?? Its pretty miniature, and unlike other manufacturers 'miniature' systems you get to use Canons full line of lenses.Perhaps you meant that neither has seriously approached mirrorless...

enerzo. most of your comments is ok (emotional) but to say Canon will be out business is a bit too much? Are you a financial analysis by profession? People have been saying this for years but everywhere I look, I see people carrying Canon cameras. go to an event and see what the professionals are carrying? I see Canikons and i can't see this landscape changing. Go to the Professionals website, you'll see Canikon diehards.

If there are camera manufacturers that are innovative it's Fujifilm, Panasonic and Sony. What has Canon delivered the last 3 years? What have they delivered this year - other than minor upgrades of existing products. Please tell me. I'm sorry ... but Canon is the next Nokia. Send me your email address and I'll gloat when this happens... it will not take long :-)

Look at Sony. They have delivered a NEX series of small cameras with great image quality. No response from Canon. They've made the best compact camera in the world with the RX-100 III. No response from Canon. They have produced the smallest full frame camera DSC-RX1, the best bridge camera with RX10 and the first and smallest Interchangeable Lens Cameras Sony A7, A7R and A7S... No response from Canon. And then look at what Fuji and Panasonic makes? I say goodbye Canon.

Canon's business aren't cameras and DSLRs. The real money goes well behind that with some 100x superzoom lenses for TV production and the like. 1 mil. a piece. Although I agree with you that they came with no major innovation during the last years, I believe they will not be out of the game anytime soon.

Canon (Powershot A10) was my first digital camera and I have some sympathy with the company. I went through many P&S', entry level DSLRs up to 5D II with a portion of L-lenses. So it's not much of a happy picture to see what they showed recently. That's why I sold all of the gear and went for an Olympus E-M10 for a while. And I am rather happy with it! But what SONY did recently, deserves respect!

DPReview, you did an excellent job, once again! I'm always amazed at how thorough your coverage is, and how you're able to cover every nuance and detail, and explain it's relevance. This review obviously took a lot of work, and it shows.

More about gear in this article

Fujifilm has released two firmware updates: firmware version 5.00 for the X-T1 and version 2.01 for the X-Pro2. X-T2 owners will have to keep waiting for firmware that enables tethered shooting with Lightroom. Read more

After the official launch of the X-Pro2 recently in Tokyo, Fujifilm invited a select group of press to visit its Taiwa assembly plant in Sendai, to see the camera being put together. As well as the X-Pro2, we were also able to see the assembly lines for the X-T1, X100T and several lenses. So of course, being the nerds that we are, we took a bunch of pictures. Click through to check out our factory tour

Richard Butler's choice of Gear of the Year isn't a product launched this year (our choices of best products of the year were recognized in the DPReview.com Awards), instead it's the one that's prompted him to work on his photography. So what's so special about the Fujifilm 56mm F1.2 APD?

Continuing our 2015 series of articles highlighting staff favorites of the past year, DPR studio manager Samuel Spencer takes a look back, yet simultaneously forward, at instant photography and the Fujifilm Instax Share SP-1 instant printer, and the experiences he had with it while shooting his sister's wedding last March. Read more

Dan Hogman has made a career as an architect, while pursuing photography in his free time. In his eyes the two fields are closely related, and finds photography helps him look for new vantage points to capture architecture he likes. Take a look at his photos and find out more him. See gallery

Latest in-depth reviews

Canon's EOS R, the company's first full-frame mirrorless camera, impresses us with its image quality and color rendition. But it also comes with quirky ergonomics, uninspiring video features and a number of other shortcomings. Read our full review to see how the EOS R stacks up in today's full-frame mirrorless market.

No Nikon camera we've tested to date balances stills and video capture as well as the Nikon Z7. Though autofocus is less reliable than the D850, Nikon's first full-frame mirrorless gets enough right to earn our recommendation.

Nikon's Coolpix P1000 has moved the zoom needle from 'absurd' to 'ludicrous,' with an equivalent focal length of 24-3000mm. While it's great for lunar and still wildlife photography, we found that it's not suited for much else.

The Nikon Z7 is slated as a mirrorless equivalent to the D850, but it can't subject track with the same reliability as its DSLR counterpart. AF performance is otherwise good, except in low light where hunting can lead to missed shots.

Latest buying guides

What's the best camera for under $500? These entry level cameras should be easy to use, offer good image quality and easily connect with a smartphone for sharing. In this buying guide we've rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing less than $500 and recommended the best.

Whether you've grown tired of what came with your DSLR, or want to start photographing different subjects, a new lens is probably in order. We've selected our favorite lenses for Sony mirrorlses cameras in several categories to make your decisions easier.

Whether you've grown tired of what came with your DSLR, or want to start photographing different subjects, a new lens is probably in order. We've selected our favorite lenses for Canon DSLRs in several categories to make your decisions easier.

Whether you've grown tired of what came with your DSLR, or want to start photographing different subjects, a new lens is probably in order. We've selected our favorite lenses for Nikon DSLRs in several categories to make your decisions easier.

What’s the best camera for less than $1000? The best cameras for under $1000 should have good ergonomics and controls, great image quality and be capture high-quality video. In this buying guide we’ve rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing under $1000 and recommended the best.

Canon's EOS R, the company's first full-frame mirrorless camera, impresses us with its image quality and color rendition. But it also comes with quirky ergonomics, uninspiring video features and a number of other shortcomings. Read our full review to see how the EOS R stacks up in today's full-frame mirrorless market.

We spoke to wildfire photographer Stuart Palley about his experiences shooting the recent Woolsey fire, why the Nikon Z7 isn't quite ready to take a permanent spot in his gear bag, and 'that' Tweet from Donald Trump.

The Z7 presented Nikon with a stiff challenge: how to build a mirrorless camera that measures up to its own DSLRs and can deliver a familiar experience to Nikon users. Chris and Jordan tell us whether they think Nikon succeeded.

Nikon has released firmware version 1.02 that resolves a flickering issue when scrolling through images, an ISO limitation problem, and an occasional crash that could occur when displaying certain Raw files.

The Insta360 One X is the company's latest consumer 360-degree camera, supporting 5.7K video, including excellent image stabilization, as well as 18MP photos. And, in our experience, it's a really fun camera to use.