The upstairs room, with its Vespas suspended from the ceiling and reclaimed stained glass, is the spot to
retreat to with a big group to share platefuls of pasta. The onus is on you to match eight sauces
(walnut-kale pesto, meatball and turnip ragù) with seven types of pasta.

Either way, you know how this is going to end: with you signing up for “next” on one of the two
gravel-and-oystershell courts, smack-dab in the middle of each floor.