Your Vogue history

Burberry Prorsum

THE Burberry show is a full voltage theatrical performance every season - Kensington Gardens has been closed to traffic all weekend as the tent was erected in the shadow of the Albert Memorial; there are almost as many paparazzi there as there are guests, this afternoon to capture Harry Styles, Alexa Chung and, of course, current 'face' Sienna Miller.

Lilting, emotive music - check. Petals raining upon us during the finale - check. Trench coats - check (this season in palest lilac lace and drawn tight to the body). Cara Delevingne on the catwalk - check. All the standard Burberry ingredients were there, but this season there were no studs, no hard-hitting, form-fitting glamour - it was Christopher Bailey in relaxed mode. Ever the consummate host, he sent an email minutes before the show to thank us for coming and welcome us, then entertained us with soft cashmere sweaters and roomy coats of double-faced cashmere. Not very summery you might cry - but with hail stones rattling the roof just seconds after bright sunshine, who's to judge anything on assumptions about the weather. The palette was pastely passive - Ladurée macaroon colours letting lacy dresses and front-split pencil skirts play tasty filling to the coats, while sheepskin clutches scrunched in one hand added a dash of darker orange or pink.

Light suede tan coats and grey school cardigans were further evidence of Bailey's calm demeanour, before gobstopping brooches adorned the lace dresses and belts around wide necked satin coats. The jewels held dresses on one shoulder - Christopher Kane did a similar strap earlier today so perhaps frosting ourselves will be the thing next summer (let's hope) - and some even made Cara's transparent waterproof cape unsuitable for rain.

Polka dots worn with stripes replaced this season's hearts - Christopher Bailey is at the top of his game and he's clearly having fun.