Thanks for all the info and feed back here I know these questions have all probably been ask in the past there is just a lot of pages to sort through. should be ordering the rest of my stuff tonight or tomorrow, and still up in the air about 3 gear or 4 gear I would rather just go with one and stay there rather than run it and then switch it. I;ll ask in other forum for our track and see what they are running might be more helpful.

could someone point me to someplace where I can find a chart or something that tells what KV ratings cretin motors are I am looking for a 8.5T motor but see some listed as 4700kv I'd like to be able to compare them and see whats what.

could someone point me to someplace where I can find a chart or something that tells what KV ratings cretin motors are I am looking for a 8.5T motor but see some listed as 4700kv I'd like to be able to compare them and see whats what.

No one really compares KV ratings. Turns are primarily used for comparing different motors. example....10.5 vs 13.5.

Does anyone run the x factory carbon fiber chassis on their t5m. I got the kit with a free one in it and I'm not sure if I am going to use it or not,,,I guess any pros and cons to it. I'm coming to this from a 22t 1.0, so I doubt I would notice the difference

Does anyone run the x factory carbon fiber chassis on their t5m. I got the kit with a free one in it and I'm not sure if I am going to use it or not,,,I guess any pros and cons to it. I'm coming to this from a 22t 1.0, so I doubt I would notice the difference

I've got one coming as well. Weight savings is an obvious plus in my opinion. Figured I'd give it a try as my X-60CF is getting a little long in the tooth. The ability to alter flex in the chassis will give you more tuning options. If you're on med-low traction you may find that no screws in the upper deck at the rear will help a ton with traction.

The Team Associated Manual Suggests starting at 28/78 for 17.5 gearing and they usually provide a pretty good starting point so I would say the fast guys are in the right area for gearing. The MIP puck system and some other areas may help but I think you are just over-geared for for the most part.

Try bringing gearing down to 28/78 and start at about 45 degrees of timing on the D4 and see how it goes but it should wake up an if temps are good bump the timing some more. But if you get over 50+ degrees of timing you may want to try turning timing back down to 40 and go up a tooth and start the process over until you find the sweet spot on gearing and timing.

Spencer Rivkin was running 27/78 at the Stock Nationals with his truck for gearing with the Reedy Mach 2 so up or down just a few teeth should be in the ball park at most tracks.

when I got my new truck I also got the kit with the free CF chassis and I weighed it and the stock chassis no rails or anything else just bottom chassis plate to chassis plate and weight difference was 2.02 oz. And after talking to Jason Snyder and a few others I went with the stock chassis because I am going to be running a mod class and the added weight my help, and the increased flex from the CF chassis would not be desirable. And from talking to Paul from X-Factory the CF chassis can be stiffened to take flex out the weight difference may require it to be added so I just went Alum.