We get up early, before sunrise (before 8 am when the flies wake up) and wander through the ruins of Farina. Three hundred people lived here in its heyday.

The road to Marree is straight and dusty, but thanks to the salt, very good to drive on. Coffee stop at what used to be Marree station. The locals tried to stop the last train from leaving by unhooking cars. Walter is disgusted about the petrol price - almost $2 per litre! The prices in the general store are just as shocking - $75 for a camping cooking pot!

We are now in desert country. At Southern Lake Eyre, in the middle of the day, just after 1pm Walter and Jonathan decide to go walking on to the salt lake. It is 37 degrees out there in the sun! Anna and I sit in the car with our head nets

. Half an hour later the two enthusiastic Geologists return. Walter has accumulated at least 200 flies on his hat. We continue to salt water spring moulds, where Walter tries to take a dip, but it is too muddy. Once again the daring Geologists decide to climb a hill in the heat. We ladies take the car and drive off (anywhere will do - as long it is with aircon and no flies)! We drive back to pick up the men 30 minutes later. Walter now has a fly waving branch. We arrive at our camp site - Coward Spring - just after 3 pm. It is very hot and the flies are just unbearable. Luckiliy, there is a fresh water spring - turned into a spa - small pool - big enough for 2 people. Heaven! We cool down in the little pool. I lget excited about the birds - but forgot my binocolours at the camp site. Anna invested in a tent at Marree and is looking forward to a good night's sleep.

At 7 pm a strong wind suddenly starts up from the East. Hurray - the flies all disappear! Dinner is German sausages, a salad and boerburgers (toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches done on the bbq) presented with another German Riesling at sunset, followed by a Merlot from Banrock Station. The wind dies down - we crawl into our tents after a long and hot day. The stars are out in full force. Magnificant! From where I am lying in my tent, the Casuarinas with the stars behind them look like lights in a Christmas tree.