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I have some questions for you racers I see slayden has the deep offset 40 series on his revo for the silver state race, will these turn just as good as a set of the revo wabash. Next I got to drive the 3.3 in a 2.5 revo just off of breakin and on top end it hauls but the bottom end just isn't there compared to my 18tz. I'm not downing it I want to buy one as a back up but does it get better or is that it.

Ghostridar2005: I also notice the lack of bottom end with the 3.3 but, like you said it's screams on top... So I guess we just have to find a happy medium or just tune for certain tracks that we run on...

I have a surprising question about the center diff. In the stock 2.5 chassis is are a big noticeable difference for the better? Remember the best thing about the revo was how simple it is the setup for racing. The center diff add another part that can cause problem (Like the 1/8 scale trucks). Also is it the extended 3.3 chassis that make the big difference?

I run a 14T CB, 38 Spur with the 3.3 Plenty of bottom end, not as snappy as a our TM's or TZ, but trust me, there is more bottom end than you can use. I also run standard ratio tranny gears so the top end speed is plenty as well.

The hole location on the a arms is a ride height adjustment. What rockers are you using? If you are having a "spring thing" then you need to look at some other parts of your setup. Roll center (upper suspension arm hinge pins) front and back. Are they in the lower holes? Upper holes? What shock springs are you using? What is your ride height (axles level, arms level,etc.) front and rear?

It's hard to figure out exactly what problem you are having only knowing what shock oil you are using.

Well I just didn't want to get it and be mad cause my tz will out pull the 3.3 and the rb323 out the hole and I was pulling them on top end but my truck would spin out when it changed to second(wrong diff set up). Plus the 3.3 only had about 9 tanks in it so I'm not downing it.

Roy - I think I may have made a mistake in picking up the "bottom to mid" Resonator for my 3.3, what pipe are you using? And hey, I don't suppose you'd want the 2.5R piston, sleeve, and rod back that you gave me at the Pro Series last year? Know anyone that could use it? I never got around to installing it, bought a 3.3 for this year. Heh, still haven't stepped up to a starter box yet, though - Again, I'll be the only guy at the race using a bright orange Black and Decker cordless to start my truck.

Steve, I've been hearing some rumors that you may be heading up to Canby, Oregon this weekend - any truth to it?

Sorc, no, just pass it along to someone else that may need it. Pay it forward ;-) I run the stock pipe on the 3.3 with an O.S. header. I have tried the Resonator and it seem to make the tune finicky and it was a bit too loud for me, I am getting old haha!

tazman, I would either go down in springs or up in oil thickness. white front, green rear with the 40wt will feel soft but will be planted, with no springy feel (thats what I run). Thicker oil (50wt, 60wt?) with those springs will slow the dampining down and slow the rebound, a stiffer feel, but should not feel springy.

TOPS, I like alot of bottom end, it fits my style of driving, I do not feel like I gave up anything changing to the 3.3 in the bottom end power once I changed to a 14t CB.

The 3.3 does open up some on the bottom around the 1/2 to gallon mark. Something I noticed that has helped the center diff is putting higher diff fluid in the rear. The off power rotation stops and the ride height stays level. I had been running 7k and it would rotate with the RPMs but with 20k it rolls with the speed of my truck or alittle slower and levels out. I'm running 40-300-20 and it is the best set-up so far.

Center diff I have and some others around here have had the CD loading up and it acts like it is slipping as it engages and as it shifts into second gear. What I have so far that stops this without anything higher than 300k is differential stop grease. It is close to 800k and I mixed about 1/5 stop to 4/5 300k and it is shifting like it did before and more important it comes out of the hole like it did before. i have order 500k and it has not arrived but the CD needs as thick as possible as far as I have been able to come up with for a strong straight hole shot and not to over rev at shift point.

Center diff I have and some others around here have had the CD loading up and it acts like it is slipping as it engages and as it shifts into second gear. What I have so far that stops this without anything higher than 300k is differential stop grease. It is close to 800k and I mixed about 1/5 stop to 4/5 300k and it is shifting like it did before and more important it comes out of the hole like it did before. i have order 500k and it has not arrived but the CD needs as thick as possible as far as I have been able to come up with for a strong straight hole shot and not to over rev at shift point.

Hey Guys, I have some questions. But first I'm going to post my setup I currently have, and my purchasing list, to better help you guys answer my question. Now I'm not new to racing, but frankly don't get to race as often as I like. So I like to have the best idea of what I should/shouldn't do before I get to the track.

I'll be running in the Pro Series and the NWCT, I'm going to try to attend the races from here on out. (do my best lol)

Anyways, I'd like some setup tips. First some information about me lol. I'm a basher turned racer. Even now I never really touch my springs, diff oils, camber, caster etc.. I adjust my driving to the truck rather then adjust the truck to my driving.

So I'm looking for some help. What setup tools should I get to get me started. And is their any suggestion on using those tools?

What should I have my camber/castor set at?

Springs and oil. As pictured my truck weighs 7 lbs 12.1 ounces. I'm curious to know what springs I should use and my oil setup. I prefer a truck thats absorbs what it hits, lands etc.. So a soft setup.

Diff oil selection. Seems like this is a huge subject lol. Where should I start, and when I adjust what should I look for in changes?

Steering! I'm in love with steering and can't get enough of it. What setups will get me the best steering use.

Quick turn and Centerdiff? I know some use both, whats the benefits, and your opinion on this?

Now for the wing. I had a wing and after about a gallon of fuel I managed to snap the rear body mount. Should I get another? And if so should I stick with my mugen setup or go tekno?

For you heavy large event racers, what else should I know? What spares should I bring etc..

I don't want to go to a race weekened and have something go wrong and me not be able to finish the weekened.

As far as set-up... You need to check with the fast guys running at the track(s) that you will be running at... And go from there... Pretty simple....

Tell you the truth I didn't even read you're whole post.... I saw what spares to bring, and responded.... My fualt... Do you have skid plates(mainly the rear)on your list? If not add'em... Good luck with your racing, watch your attitude so folks will help....

how are you guys doing with the rear break set up? im still seem to be getting more front braking then rear. tried screwing rear in but keep getting the brakes on when rolling. have the front brakes as loose as poss

Pick your truck up by the rear and roll it while you adjust the brake bias. Then do the same with the rears. You might have to back them off some at your disc. i'm running about 20% front to 80% rear with a soft brake set-up. I'm not real heavy on my brakes just enough to slow me down but I don't like to use them as a pivot for turning.

Atmo, you have to be getting pretty close to the feel of a solid shaft in the tranny instead of a diff with that thick of fluid.

Kinda what I was thinkin also. My son ran 50-300-30 last weekend and did very well. The front ballooned a little bit, but was acceptable. Our track measures 180' x 90' with around a 70' straight. The rest is technical.

No not really what I wanted was that same punch out of the hole and no drag at shift point. With 300k it has alittle drag off the line and a noticable drag at shift point it "unloads". With the thicker my fronts still ballon alot but it's as strong out of the hole as ever and shifting like it use to. Like I said I'm like all of us and just trying as many set-ups as possible until I find whats right for my driving style and track conditions. I keep a complete tranny with a back-up CD in it so it is alot easier to swap with different fluids a see how she reacts. My next will have straight diff fluid mixed @ 400k and 500k. Currently my mixture is 4 parts 300k with 1 part Diff locking grease so it's a best estimate on what my mix is