Bleachboy's outerwear is the only double breasted style I like. I am a sucker for houndstooth, and appropriately only NYR could pull it off without apologies. Nice stuff, overall really, learning a lot from you guys.

Damn fun contest. I couldn't really narrow down my choices, so spread the love around: For nice takes on a 70s-ish theme: bleachboy, Spoo, UrbanComposition, clarinetplayer For great use of classics: Parker, AlanC, TTO For a sleeker look: someotherstyle, PinkPantster

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrd617

HoldFast, what is going on with the length of that coat?

It's mid-calf, which is not unusual for a double-breasted very thick overcoat like that, esp. given the military detailing of epaulets, belted back, and so on, which echo those of military greatcoats which usually fell to below knee and up to about mid-calf (and occasionally even longer, depending on nation). Plus the massive lapels and DB fastening needs some extra length for balance too, esp. when in motion. The long, slightly flaring skirt positively swirls about when walking, which is lots of fun, and I think a nice contrast to the fairly heavy waist suppression. Mind you, that is a somewhat controversial view to take. There's a similar argument in Manton's recent thread on his bespoke DB, though his overcoat is much more formal than mine. I also seem to recall that when I first bought this overcoat, I started a thread on what length it should be. I was fairly agnostic at that point, though leaning to keeping it full-length, and a whole range of - very strong! - opinions on both sides of the debate emerged. In the end, I decided to keep it as is. Personally, I'm very glad I did, not only for the aesthetic reasons I mentioned above, but also because it makes the coat MUCH more practical/warmer in cold weather conditions I tend to reach for it.

Mind you, that is a somewhat controversial view to take. There's a similar argument in Manton's recent thread on his bespoke DB, though his overcoat is much more formal than mine. I also seem to recall that when I first bought this overcoat, I started a thread on what length it should be. I was fairly agnostic at that point, though leaning to keeping it full-length, and a whole range of - very strong! - opinions on both sides of the debate emerged.

In the end, I decided to keep it as is. Personally, I'm very glad I did, not only for the aesthetic reasons I mentioned above, but also because it makes the coat MUCH more practical/warmer in cold weather conditions I tend to reach for it.

I can see that being practical for warmth, but as a person of average height (5'10''), I'd go for one slightly above the knee. Something above the knee might look odd on a person of Manton's height, so he's better off aesthetically with a longer one.