8.07.2014

Trinidad SR is known to be one of the best antifouling paints for tropical waters. ....It's spendy but you may as well do it right. I chose black for no apparent reason.

I just took my time and rolled it on with a small 3/8 inch knap roller. One gallon seems to be enough for one hull so it may take 3 gallons to do the job. ( this includes the centerboards, rudders and the inside of each centerboard well. )

8.05.2014

The lower pin that attaches to the bottom of the head stay is an important item. In this case, the pin runs through two stainless "spools" that are bonded to the bow beam with multiple layers of unidirectional carbon fiber.

To keep this pin from working out, I've created a stainless plate that will capture it and hold it in place. If this pin were to fail or back out, say goodbye to the rig.

8.03.2014

Where the sail drives exit the boat, there is a hole in the hull that opens up into the under side of the sail drive. To create smooth flow across this exit hole, Yanmar provides a rubber boot that is intended to be glued over this hole. Research has shown that this boot doesn't really want to stay on; no matter what glue is used. As a precaution, I decided to make stainless steel straps that will screw onto the edges of these boots to hold them on.

here are my straps

I've heard that's it's best to rough the surface of rubber before any sort of bonding......works for bike tubes.

here's my work site

I decided to use 3M 5200 because it's tenacious stuff

I applied 5200 to both the boot and the hull

I screwed the perimeter straps in place

then primed everything with Primocon then hit it with Trilux antifouling just for good measure.