Food Blog

Das Bevo Bierhall Is Open — and the Old Bevo Mill Looks Better Than Ever

Das Bevo's communal table has room for you and all your stein-clanking friends.

A century after August Busch Sr. looked at a plot of land in modern-day south St. Louis and thought "I wanna drink beer inside a windmill," the iconic Bevo Mill is once again open for thirsty travelers. Unlike its builder, however, they won't just be stopping at the windmill on the way to Grant's Farm. The eclectic Bevo Mill, newly christened Das Bevo Bierhall(4749 Gravois Avenue), is a destination all its own.

With more than $1 million in renovations and the guiding hands of the esteemed chefs at Sugarfire Events — the catering wing of Sugarfire Smokehouse, with Peter Slay serving as executive chef — it's no wonder that Das Bevo was packed when it kicked off its soft opening Sunday.

Things had quieted down by the time RFT arrived in the afternoon, but the renovated interior was no less impressive. Beneath the high vaulted ceiling and dark rafters, the cavernous main dining area has the air of a hunting lodge. Even though the walls are lined with antlers, it somehow doesn't feel overdone.

The menu Sunday was limited, but still fit the bill for what owners Pat and Carol Schuchard had promised in a press release: "a creative and contemporary pub menu with German flare."

To start, all of Sunday's patrons were greeted with a complementary yogurt parfait, assembled with homemade mango preserves, berries and pistachio granola.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

The brunch menu's highlight, both in terms of taste and the enjoyment of pronunciation, was the aptly named "Dasbigassburrito." The dish was actually more of a chimichanga, but who are we to quibble with a name that funny? It was a hefty deep-fried tortilla whose crunchy layers housed a not-messing-around amount of bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs and home fries — and after that, the whole thing was doused in beer cheese. Das good.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

The brunch and bier hall represent only a partial view of what Das Bevo hopes to offer. The Schuchards, who previously developed Majorette and Boo Cat Club, purchased the structure last year from the city after the previous lessee, a catering company, pulled out of the operation, leading the city to put out a call for proposals.

The Schuchards answered the call, and along with an all-week restaurant, work is being done to complete a 100-seat outdoor German beer garden. The lower level, dubbed Das Bevo Underground and promising a "speakeasy" vibe, will host concerts, rehearsal dinners, weddings and corporate meetings.

By next spring, the owners are aiming to complete renovations on August Busch Sr.'s old apartment, located in the body of the windmill. The living space will be split into bed-and-breakfast apartments that can be rented for the night. Which is good news, we imagine, for old Augy's ghost. He's probably been aching for new drinking buddies these long years.

A toast to you, Bevo Mill. It's good to have you back with us.

Scroll down for more photos of Das Bevo. For more info, check out Dasbevo.com.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

The Bavarian sausage comes with crispy potatoes, sauerkraut and your choice of eggs.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

Flash-fried onions provide a crunchy topping to the South Side Florentine: poached eggs on a bed of creamy spinach, swiss cheese and breakfast potatoes.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

Das Bevo's fortress-like fireplace.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

The walls are adorned with horned plaques.

Photo by Danny Wicentowski

A sign for the new "Das Bevo" concept greets diners in the back parking lot.

Photo courtesy of Das Bevo

Follow Danny Wicentowski on Twitter at @D_Towski. E-mail the author at Danny.Wicentowski@RiverfrontTimes.com