Fresh From The Garden: We come to praise, not bury, the eggplant

By ANN LOVEJOY, SPECIAL TO THE P-I

Published 10:00 pm, Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Not everybody loves eggplant, perhaps because it is so often treated as if there was something wrong with it.

Young, plump eggplant doesn't need to be salted or rinsed (but avoid any that don't "bounce back" when lightly pressed). I rarely even peel eggplant, especially not sleek, lovely youngsters. If you like baba ghanouj, the savory, creamy Middle Eastern eggplant spread, make your own and season it precisely to your taste. Baked eggplant is blended with garlic, fresh lemon juice and tahini (sesame seed paste), then given a twist with fresh herbs. Traditionally served with pita bread, baba ghanouj also is a flavorful, nutritious dip for fresh vegetables.

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I love Italian Baked Eggplant, a glorious dish that tastes amazingly fresh and light because very little oil is involved. Eggplant slices are dipped in cornmeal, baked until tender, then layered in a baking dish with spicy tomato sauce and topped with fresh mozzarella.

Another Italian treat even non-eggplant people enjoy is caponata, a spunky dip that's terrific with fresh bell pepper slices. It's also lovely spread on crackers and topped with shrimp or kalamata olives.

BABA GHANOUJ

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

2 medium eggplants

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 organic lemon, juiced, rind grated

2-3 tablespoons tahini

1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, stemmed and shredded

1 tablespoon fresh mint, stemmed and shredded

1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Rinse eggplant, prick in several places with a sharp knife and place in a baking pan. Bake until skin is soft and dark (50-60 minutes). When cool enough to handle, cut in half and spoon pulp into a colander. Let stand for 5 minutes then squeeze out excess moisture.

In a food processor, combine pulp with garlic, lemon rind and 2 tablespoons tahini. Puree to a smooth paste and season to taste, starting with half the lemon juice, 1/8 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, 1 tablespoon of parsley and 2 teaspoons of mint. When properly seasoned, place in a bowl, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve warm.

ITALIAN BAKED EGGPLANT

SERVES 4-6

1 1/2 cups fine cornmeal

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

2 medium eggplants, in 1/2-inch slices

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2-3 cups Spicy Tomato Sauce (see next recipe)

2 cups fresh mozzarella, shredded

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a shallow bowl, combine cornmeal, salt, pepper and nutmeg, set aside.

Rinse eggplant slices, pat dry. Dip in egg, then in cornmeal mixture and arrange on a baking sheet. Bake until crisp and lightly brown (20-30 minutes) then turn and brown the underside (10-15 minutes). Layer 2-3 rows of slices in a baking dish and pour a stripe of tomato sauce down the middle of each row. Sprinkle with mozzarella and bake until cheese is bubbly (15-20 minutes). Serve hot.

SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 dried hot peppers (pepperoncini)

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 cup onion, chopped

1/2 cup celery, finely chopped

4 cups ripe tomatoes, diced (with juice)

1 teaspoon green peppercorns, drained

1/4 cup fresh basil, shredded

1/2 teaspoon fresh oregano, stemmed and shredded

In a frying pan, heat oil and dried peppers over medium-high heat. Brown peppers on all sides, then discard. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until golden (2-3 minutes). Add onions and celery and cook until soft (3-4 minutes). Add tomatoes, bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer until reduced by half (15-20 minutes). Add green peppercorns, basil and oregano and simmer for 5 minutes.

CAPONATA

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 medium eggplant, diced ( 1/2-inch)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 cup sweet onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup celery, finely chopped

1/2 cup Florence fennel, finely chopped

2 cups ripe tomatoes, diced (with juice)

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon capers, drained

1/2 teaspoon fresh oregano, stemmed and shredded

1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, stemmed and shredded

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Arrange eggplant in a baking pan and bake until soft (45-50 minutes).

In a heavy frying pan, combine oil, garlic and onions over medium-high heat and cook until soft (3-5 minutes). Add celery and fennel and cook until barely tender (4-5 minutes). Add tomatoes and cook until reduced by half (15-20 minutes). Add vinegar, capers, oregano, salt, pepper and parsley, cook 3 minutes and remove from heat. When eggplant is cooked, add to the pan and stir well. If mixture is very juicy, cook over mediumhigh heat until pan juices are almost gone (5-6 minutes).