Whether it's a quick fillet or a slow roast, a good seared crust on a piece of protein can pretty much make or break a meal. But when recipe instructions say "sear" and nothing else, inquiring minds want to know: How, exactly, does one's scallop, steak, or pork chop attain that crispy browned surface? This three-part series on the BA Test Kitchen's searing secrets takes you from the plate to the pan and back, with all questions answered.

VOLUME 1: THE HOT PAN

Half the searing battle is picking the right saute pan. Make sure it has a long, sturdy handle, a flat bottom, and low sides. It should be large enough to contain the meat with plenty of space around each piece--crowding leads to sogginess, and that's a cardinal sin in this business.

When it comes to material, cast iron (naturally nonstick, great for range-to-oven transitions) and stainless steel (responsive and precise) both have their virtues. Steak, pork, chicken, and potatoes love a sturdy iron pan. But for a hot 'n fast sear on something more delicate, like scallops or thin-skinned fish, I stick with stainless. The fast response to changes in heat means you have to pay close attention while cooking, but it also allows you more control over the temperature of your pan.

Why does it matter? Consider this scenario: Your oiled pan should always be hot enough that it makes a great, dramatic sizzling sound when the meat goes in. If you act too soon and miss the sizzle, you can still crank up the heat under a stainless steel pan to raise the temperature quickly. But with heavier cast iron, you'd better make sure it's ripping hot, or the temperature drop when cold food hits the pan could get you stuck steaming your steak. (Notice how you've never seen pan-steamed steak on a restaurant menu? That's because it's gross.)

Once you've got the pan picked out, it's time to think about oil. For high-temperature searing, it's best to use a refined oil with a higher smoke point. Let your favorite fruity EVOO sit this round out; it's canola's time to shine. Safflower, peanut, sunflower, and soy oils are also good options.

Let your pan start to warm on the burner over medium-to-high heat, and once it's warm (but before it's hot), add enough oil to well coat the bottom of the pan. You want to keep your protein from sticking, but not add so much fat that it ends up frying. About 1 tablespoon is a good starting point, although you may want more or less depending on what you're cooking and how much of its own fat will render out. Don't worry too much about this; you can always pour or spoon out extra fat during the cooking process if things start to get greasy.

Heat the oil; as the temperature rises it will begin to noticeably shimmer--look for an almost pebbly texture to the surface of the liquid.

Past that, you'll reach the smoke point, where smoke may begin to rise from the edges or hottest areas of the pan and the oil will begin to darken. Using a Star Wars-style laser thermometer, I found that canola in a stainless pain began to shimmer at 450 degrees and hit the smoke point by 475.

And JUST before it all goes up in smoke, that sweet spot between soggy steak and calling the fire department, is your magic moment. Whatever you're cooking, throw that sucker in and let it sear.