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Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Coat Muslin: Opinions, Please!

So, I know these aren't the best pictures in the world. (And yes, I also know that I have a Cabbage Patch Kid by my head, a paper mache egret to my left side, and a cat to my right side. That's just how I roll.) But, in any case, behold my coat muslin!To refresh your memories, this is Vogue 8346, view D. The only weird thing about it is that I can't seem to find anything wrong with it. I made a straight size 14, no alterations or anything. And I'm completely happy with the fit. Am I missing something?

I'm wearing a dress and a cardigan underneath, which is what I wear on a typical winter day. It fits very comfortably, with a few inches of ease.

I love the shape of it! It hits me mid-calf, which at first I thought was too long. But the length quickly grew on me. I think it's going to feel like a big cozy blanket.Anyway, I could really use your opinions here. Do you think the fit looks good?

The fabric is currently at the drycleaners being steam pressed, and I've been avidly studying my tailoring book. I'm actually starting to feel confident about the whole thing! Even if I don't end up making any changes in the muslin stage, making it really helped me get my bearings. Now I'm just excited to make the real thing!

P.S. I was a bit confused after the last few posts about the coat. Did I understand correctly that the basic pattern doesn't involve lining and interlining for this coat? Is that why you are using an other book too? That seems very weird to me. I would think that making a decent coat would always involve these basic actions.

Karin, there are instructions for lining the coat, but not interlining. But the real reason I'm using the book is that the pattern instructions don't include any tailoring methods, which apparently a well-made coat needs. I'm learning quite a bit! I'll write more as I go.

The fit looks spot on. I know your winter fabric is lipstick red (and the coat will look absolutely stunning in that colour), but the cut in the white muslin looks really glamorous too... I'll second Lucy in saying that if the fabric is good enough to wear, you should make the most of that muslin when the weather gets warmer!

Wow, Gertie. That is a great looking muslin. Although, I get a little PO'ed when I go to all that trouble and there is NOTHING to change. Then I think, well that was stupid! I can just see you wearing some long scarves with that brilliant red. Cool!

Amazing! It is beautiful. The only thing that I saw after blowing up the pictures was a few wrinkles around the armholes on the back view. Perhaps the back is just a smidgen too broad? Although with lining+interlining+thicker fashion fabric that likely won't be an issue.

Lovely, Gertie! I actually love the hem length, but am a little unsure about the sleeve length. I would be tempted to put a turned-up cuff on them to give them a little extra omph. Not sure though. Great job - can't wait to see the finished product!

It's gorgeous! I love it! as for the sleeve length, I'd leave it - it's so windy and rainy here in London, I love long sleeves to cover my wrists... I was in NY last winter and though it was dry it was also bloody cold, so I'd leave them as they are..

I too, think the fit is great as is. You know what's really weird? I made an earlier version of that Vogue pattern (mine is double breasted, with a convertible at-the-neck, or notched collar) and mine fit right out of the pattern too... and we have totally different shapes :). Something about the extra ease in coats and all those princess seams I guess!

Perfect! And it looks so much better made up -- I set this pattern aside because I just didn't think it would look good in person. But it's great -- and looks like it fits perfectly! Sigh, I may have to change my mind again.

One tip someone gave me, when trying on your muslin put the shoulder pads in (or folded washcloths if you don't have them made up yet) because they can change the fit a bit.

I'm very impressed! I like the length of the coat over all, and did wonder about the sleeve length being taken up a smidgen, but as Carina said, in the dead of winter you might want that extra warmth for your extremities! :)

Is the collar going to be in a contrasting fabric, or the same fabric?

I can't tell if you've got shoulder pads in. If not, you should try the fit with the pads in. Looks like the back may be a little broad. I love the look of your waist in this coat. Personally I think the sleeves are too long, but I was always told by my tailoring-teacher that sleeve length "is a very personal matter that the tailor should always leave to the customer". Looking forward to seeing the final result.

Wow, thanks for the great feedback, everyone! I should have mentioned that I AM wearing the shoulder pads with the muslin.

Personally, I like the length of the sleeve. I hate when my wrists get exposed in the winter, so I'm leaning toward leaving them as is.

Looking at your comments, the two things I'm worried about are 1)perhaps it needs a bit more ease in the waist? Once i get all the layers put together, that will add more bulk. Hmm. Maybe just a smidge more room on each side seam.2) the back does look a little wide. I'm inclined to leave that though, because the tailoring and stiffer fabric should eliminate any wrinkles.

So, really the ease is my big worry. I think another quarter inch on each side seam would put my mind at ease.

Gertie, on the thickness of the fabric -- when I made the final muslin for my daughter's coat (it's fitted in the waist, in fact it's a little bit like yours!) I cut 1" strips of my fabrics and sewed them into the waist, including seams. That way I was sure that it would fit her after making it up. You might want to try that before altering it!

I agree with adding a bit extra to the waist. It will give a bit more movement should you have to raise your arm over your head, like holding a rail in the subway or something. And you can always nip it in a bit! It looks fantastic. Can't wait for the red!

I love this coat, and I can't wait to see the finished product! (I'm glad there are other people that make things out of muslin first too. The only thing I might suggest is perhaps go a little wider on the shoulders or add very light shoulder pads.

PSI have a funny pic to show for another muslin (doll) coat:[img]http://picasaweb.google.com/SummerWren68/DollhouseDesignsCreationsEspForAmericanGirlDolls#5404772780721659346[/img]

It looks beautiful! My only question is have you tried lifting your arms in it? (I'm busty so when I lift my arms I get pulling across the bust - so not having enough ease in the bust and arms would aggravate me). Can't wait to see the finished product!

It is bee-you-tee-full!!! But because it is SO perfect now, I worry also that after it is made in the heavier fabric with the lining and interlining that it will "shrink". I would plan for that and add a little extra in the seam allowances. Can't wait to see the end product!

i would definitely add a bit more ease in the waist... the thicker fabic, along with lining will make everything feel much tighter... i would also try it on with some clothes that you are intending on wearing underneath, as they will add more bulk, and more ease will be needed to accomodate that as well! nothing more frustrating than having put all that effort into makeing a beautiful coat, that only fits with nothing on underneath!Amy

The fit is almost perfect. You did ask for opinions. I think that you have a slight rounded shoulder going on. See those wrinkles at the back armscye? Those point to a rounded shoulder. I don't think that you need that much, but if you push the back shoulder seam toward the neck, those wrinkles should disappear. Add this amount to the end of the shoulder seam and ease the back to fit the front when you sew it together. Tape the seam to after you ease it. Steam the hell out of it and you will have a beautiful wrinkle free shoulder.

I think the muslin looks perfect. Thank you for including info about size and what you are wearing under neath. So clever of you to have the fabric steam pressed at the cleaners first... I'll definitely have to do that before I cut into my wool next time.

Question: Where did you get your heavy muslin? I haven't found any, but I'm sure there are other places I could look. (I'm in NYC)

It looks great! I agree with the comments above about the sleeve-length.also, thank you SO much for the tip about dry-cleaner-steam-pressing the fabric before sewing, I have thought long and hard about how to manage pre-shrinking wool in my tiny little flat with a tiny little ironing-board. I'm relieved you presented the solution!And the red bonus-bolero-outfit in an earlier post was STUNNING!