“We’re like the lettuce and tomato in between the meaty sandwich of The Bison and Saltlik,” says Mark Gyles of his restaurant’s new location on Banff’s Bear Street. Nourish, Banff’s much-loved and — lauded — vegetarian restaurant, has been around for more than nine years, but only since last July in Bison Courtyard at 211 Bear Str. (403-760-3933403-760-3933).

Nourish actually dates back further to the days when it was called Sunfood Cafe and resided in Banff’s Sundance Mall. Then, Heather McCoy bought the restaurant and continued its vegetarian, mostly organic, focus. But over time, the size and air-venting limitations of the mall convinced McCoy to move. A few years along the line, she met Gyles and the two became both life and business partners.

While McCoy touts the healthy benefits of a vegetarian lifestyle, Gyles is a committed carnivore. So they’ve combined their skills to satisfy the desires of both the vegetarian crowd and the many meat-eaters who visit Banff. Gyles has upped the size and the flavour quotient of the menu, adding fruits like pineapple, blueberries and strawberries to dishes and filling the plates with large portions. A half-serving of Caesar salad is a meal in itself (and a fine Caesar, too, with toasty kale chips) and a full Caesar would work for four as a large appetizer.

Nourish is first and foremost about good food, albeit without any meat. You’ll find a Madras curry-and-cheddar poutine topped with a tomato-cucumber chutney ($14), wild mushroom ravioli in a roasted red pepper-lavender cream ($16 half, $28 full order) and hickory nachos layered with a smoked blackberry sauce, banana peppers, six kinds of beans and Monterey Jack cheese ($16 half, $23 full) on a menu built for sharing.

You’ll also find a long wine and beer list and a setting that is both comfortable and funky. The staff, a tattooed, pierced and dreadlocked group, are friendly and professional, making Nourish a comfortable visit for international tourists and locals alike.

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When Lauren Woolstencroft thought of opening a coffee house in her family’s hotel — the Banff Aspen Hotel — one of the details to consider was the name. She thought of a play on the “aspen” theme and, thinking of the white bark of aspen trees, landed on the name Whitebark Cafe (401 Banff Ave, 403-760-7298403-760-7298).

The name also recognizes the whitebark pine, the scrappiest and most resilient tree in Banff’s abundant forests. It’s the tree that often marks the treeline as it grows highest up the side of a mountain. That’s appropriate for Woolstencroft herself.

Whitebark is just the latest challenge Woolstencroft has tackled. Born missing her legs below her knees and left arm below the elbow, she went on to collect 10 Paralympic medals in alpine skiing, five golds at the Vancouver Paralympic Winter Games alone. Woolstencroft is also an electrical engineer and can pull a pretty mean espresso from her big La Marzocco machine.

Most of the time she lets her team of largely Australian baristas handle the beverage duties, serving Moja Coffee and Banff Tea Co. teas. (Whitebark is the first Alberta outlet for Vancouver’s Moja coffee.) And the baking — all done in-house — is fresh and tasty. (The coconut macaroons are great with a “flat white” coffee, an Aussie fave.)

Whitebark is tiny, with only six seats inside, but visitors can also use the hotel’s lobby lounge and a patio has recently opened for sunny days.

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In other Banff news, Randy Luft has shifted over to the Rimrock Hotel as executive chef. He oversees everything there from the banquet and room service menus to the chef’s tasting menus in Eden. Luft, a Calgary native, spent the past eight years as executive chef at Stewart Creek Golf Club in Canmore and before that was executive chef at Murrieta’s in Canmore.

Taking over the Stewart Creek kitchen as executive chef is Brenda Parry, who worked with Luft the past two seasons as sous chef. Parry has also worked at the Fairmont Banff Springs clubhouse and at Engadine Lodge.

***

And if you’re looking for a fine breakfast in Banff, how about dropping in to Le Beaujolais on the corner of Banff Avenue and Buffalo Street (403-762-2712403-762-2712). Albert Moser has done popular weekend breakfasts during the winter so he’s expanded to offer his crepes, smoked salmon eggs Benedict and gluten-free granola Wednesday through Sunday all summer long. Served in the Bistro side of Le Beaujolais, from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., it’s a casual and stylish start to the day.

John Gilchrist’s restaurant guide to Calgary, Canmore and beyond is available in bookstores and specialty food shops. He can be reached at escurial@telus.net or 403-235-7532403-235-7532 or follow him on Twitter at@GilchristJohn

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