Joyride Taco House Delivers a Good Time Despite Uninspiring Food

Considering that "joyride" is defined as "a fast and dangerous ride, especially one in a stolen vehicle," it would make sense to assume that Joyride Taco House delivers a pretty exciting meal. Unfortunately that doesn't exactly hold true, particularly when it comes to the menu of modern Mexican eats.

The restaurant, which had two locations in Gilbert and Central Phoenix, comes courtesy of Upward Projects, the team that's brought the Valley Postino, Federal Pizza, Windsor, and Churn. And as such, you can count of a super-hip design. The CenPho Joyride -- housed in an old Humpty Dumpty restaurant -- features colorful tiles, a spacious patio, and friendly servers. It might be enough to keep you coming back but dishes like the soggy, fishy Crispy Fish Tacos probably won't do much to help.

Side dishes are abundant at Joyride. Twice I opted for orange cucumber salad, and both times I think the chef forgot the orange; it tasted of fresh cucumbers, unadorned. And the Bomb Black Beans were a bomb, not "the bomb": too thick, with no textural variation or smokiness. Instead, opt for the Mexican street corn. Technically, it's an appetizer, and served as a whole cob it's an awkward one at that. (Hint: Stand the cob up and remove the kernels with a knife at a perfect 45-degree angle without slipping and stabbing either your plate or your guests.) What it lacks in grace, it makes up for in flavor, despite corn being out of season.