Prior to successful use on the 1:72 G3M "Nell" build, above, this method was developed - prompted by two recent observations, both pointing coincidentally to the potential utility of this:

Click on Image to Enlarge

Liquid latex - packaged here (in the most economical quantity) as a "mold-builder" - but vastly more useful, especially in the current application, IMHO, as a maskoid (and also, to some extent, a sealant) - as just amply proven in the earlier testing of the "Salt Trick" method.

The second impetus in this direction came from running across the following, closeup picture of an actual aircraft with heavy paint-chipping:

Click on Image to Enlarge

A workhorse F4U Corsair during the Korean Conflict, with chipped paint exhibiting, contrary to the expected jagged edgedes, instead the occurence of many tiny rounded spots, sometimes merging to form irregular patches. Suggesting some type of liquid masking - applicable as droplets - might be very effective in replicating this look, which was exactly what was desired.

So I tested the MoldBuilder® over two simulated "bare-metal" undercoats - again, Pactra® RC262 Indy Silver, side-by-side with Tamiya® TS-17 Gloss Aluminum, both from rattle-spray cans - and again let them dry thoroughly, overnight. The latex, thinned to "heavy cream" consistency, as typical for most brush painting, was applied by spattering (sorry I didn't get a pic of this) from a stiff-bristle toothbrush - for which I strongly recommend prior practice on a scrap- or test area, noting the size of droplets possible, and distances from which they can be applied.

Allowing to dry (from its original, milky liquid appearance) until clear, an overcoat of Testors® 1910 Dark Green was again sprayed uniformly; again allowed to dry overnight:

Click on Image to Enlarge

To extend this test for a two-color overcoat, the Dark Green was then masked again (top; note underlying blobs indicating the original spatters), and a second color (of brown; again a mixture of Testors® 1955 Afrika Mustard [FS 30266] and 1954 Light Earth [FS 30140]) sprayed on uniformly. Again, after drying overnight, all maskoid was removed - actually rolled off - by gentle rubbing with soft tissue - or, even better, a soft, non-staining rubber eraser would be highly recommended.

The result (bottom) was just spectacular: a very plausible depiction of chipping - and chipping only; without embedding any rough texture(s) - of both top colors, allowing the "bare metal" base coats to show through.

Once again, the Pactra Indy Silver came off in some places - disqualifying it for good, IMHO, from any further use in this type of paint-lifting application. But, regarding the Tamiy Gloss Aluminum - or, I assume, also Testors® 1290 Chrome as well - when oversprayed with Testors paint(s), this Latex Spattering technique was expected to work extremely well.

And so it did, in its first application: my G3M Nell build. Proving the method can work particularly to depict the kind of paint chipping/flaking commonly observed on aircraft.

And can be expected to work similarly for (steel-hulled) ships and boats, as well.