I would like to see a little longer rudder blade that is kicked under the hull slightly so it reduces the weather helm feeling when in decent winds

Just saw your post kiwiyaka. Your wish has already been granted. The new larger rudder blade on the AI has indeed fixed the weather helm - to the point of it now having a slight lee helm. It has made a world of difference to the AI's handling in strong winds.

So, I asked Batman what he would like to see in an "improved AI/TI". As you know from his modification work, he's never short on suggestions. Such as:

1. "A Standard, reinforced flat-transom mount with four bolt pattern" just like the "real" Hobie sailboats. This would eliminate all our "rocking gudeon" issues and associated failures. And it would make it possible to ensure that the plate is fastened securely without pulling the rudder pin.

2. Going to the standard design could also allow you to install "a seaworthy rudder of your choice". Such as a 3rd party solution. (Nice option for the TI, I think).

3. "More rocker and a wave-friendly prow!" We'd like to to take these boats out into open water, and surf them with less worry.

4. And of course, "anoptional jib" which would mount perfectly onto said bow. (OK, that's actually from MY wish list).

Let's get started with those ideas. After 6 years, it's time to evolve.

I'm keen on the fixed stainless mirage cranks seen in Josh Yakass recent clips.It allows you to get rid of some bits, and once I found setting 7 was for me I've never changed it - why not bolt it there.

A vertical groove on the ends of the sprocket shaft to line up the correct plain and enable adjustment with a screwdriver would be helpful.

@ chrisj, yeah the new blade is better but i still think if it had a longer and more vertical front profile it would handle better in stronger winds and swell. Same with the black dagger boards the flex in them is shocking compared to the white glass ones and it must affect pointing performance. @davew, you can change the pins with bolts in your mirage drive adjustment. Josh had his crank arms custom made and Holger (started forum) uses them to. PM him if you want more info.

Maybe it's just me, but I wish Hobie would return the rudder lever to operating in a horizontal plane, like it used to in the pre-2011 AI's, instead of the near vertical plane it operates in now. Much better when using a tiller extension.

Maybe it's just me, but I wish Hobie would return the rudder lever to operating in a horizontal plane, like it used to in the pre-2011 AI's, instead of the near vertical plane it operates in now. Much better when using a tiller extension.

When the handle got longer, we had to tilt the steering a little. Maybe 10 degrees more than it was. It, if like the TI, is at 20 something degrees off horizontal and still works well with a tiller. It's a balance between ergonomics, throw and space available.

I agree about the steering handle. The position is wrong. When I have to steer for a long time (days) my wrist starts hurting due to the unnatural angle. I wish Hobie would design something completely new. Available steering on both sides would be nice. Why does it have to be side to side. Not a natural hand movement.

OK, Maybe not. But let's remember, a longer tiller gives you finer adjustments and better leverage. Those can be good things. And using the optional tiller grip ball (or hiking stick) can make things less fatiguing. At least,in theory.

Meanwhile, the new vertical rudder is larger and more efficient. It's also more sensitive to adjustments, in my experience, and can handle greater loads/speeds.

And the faster your boat goes, the more you'll need to make those "smaller" adjustments.

OK, Maybe not. But let's remember, a longer tiller gives you finer adjustments and better leverage. Those can be good things. And using the optional tiller grip ball (or hiking stick) can make things less fatiguing. At least,in theory.

Meanwhile, the new vertical rudder is larger and more efficient. It's also more sensitive to adjustments, in my experience, and can handle greater loads/speeds.

And the faster your boat goes, the more you'll need to make those "smaller" adjustments.

So a longer tiller is a good thing. At least, in theory.

Nohuhu,

I agree that the tiller handle is insufficient for heavy weather or long voyages. So I did install a longer tiller and tiller arm, and it works really well.

See it here:

kayakman7 wrote:

Hi,

I've noticed on several occasions that the tiller arm is too short, that the tiller can turned a full ninety degrees and not fully turn the rudder. A longer tiller arm should allow full use of the rudder but a longer tiller will be needed to compensate for the increased leverage of the longer tiller arm.

the copper tube is filled with epoxy and increases the strength of the joint between the carbon fiber tube and the stainless tiller arm. nylon washers fit between the spring and boat and between the boat and the locking pin.

the zip ties are merely insurance, the loops in the rudder line are too small to be removed

I lengthened the tiller by drilling down the center and inserting a length of carbon fiber rod.

I can turn the rudder lock to lock with ninety degrees of tiller movement instead of 180 degrees. This will allow for some stretching of the rudder line and still maintain control.

OK, Maybe not. But let's remember, a longer tiller gives you finer adjustments and better leverage. Those can be good things. And using the optional tiller grip ball (or hiking stick) can make things less fatiguing. At least,in theory.

Meanwhile, the new vertical rudder is larger and more efficient. It's also more sensitive to adjustments, in my experience, and can handle greater loads/speeds.

And the faster your boat goes, the more you'll need to make those "smaller" adjustments.