It was already after 7 PM when I walked into Juuma, a little sleepy village along the Karhunkierros trail. A few decrepit houses, scattered around the end of a lonely road leading deep into the forest being the only reason to even call it a village. The day had...

Juha throws a few more spoonfuls of water on the hot sauna stove. Steam rises and another heat wave reverberates through the small wooden room and hits our bodies. It's 1.30am but the tiny square window of the sauna provides plenty of natural light. "Lake time!" Juha...

It's 11.30am when I get out of Hugo's car. My mind is racing. Excited to finally make it out of the city. Hugo understands. "You don't come to Finland for its cities," he says. "You're right," I answer. "I want to go north. The real, distant north, above the arctic...