Wednesday, August 31, 2011

As I have often noted, Italy boasts an astonishing variety of very distinctive indigenous varietals, many of which are graced with extraordinary bouquets. One of the most distinctive in this regard is Rossese di Dolceacua, which is both varietal and wine.

It's from Liguria, and more specifically the parts or all of 14 Communes in the Val Nervia and the Valle Crosia (Province of Imperia, west of Genova towards the French border), and is a pale enough red that one might mistake it for a rosé. Until the first sniff, which, in young wines, displays an unmistakable mixture of sandalwood-laced spice and fruit.

Exactly when Rossese was first planted is not known, though it has been planted for centuries; the Comune di Rossese's page on the wine notes that the Alberello, or bush pruning one finds in many vineyards supports the assertion that it may have been introduced by colonists from Ancient Greece. Moving forward, they also note that under Admiral Andrea D'Oria (1466-1560), the Genoese Fleet celebrated its victories with Rossese, and that when Marchesa Doria served it to Napoleon in he liked it enough to have several casks shipped back to Paris.

Rossese grows well in rugged terrains and on slopes steep enough to make hand cultivation a necessity even now, and as a result making the wine is as much a matter of love as a business venture; yields tend to be low, and though the Disciplinare would allow a maximum annual production of about 8800 quintals of grapes (90 per hectare) for the entire appellation, actual production is much lower, on the order of 3300 quintals (figuring a yield into wine of 70%, this comes out to a total production of about about 307,000 bottles of Rossese per year), in part because winemakers do farm to lower yields to increase concentration, and in part because many of the vineyards are old, and therefore naturally produce less.

The Disciplinare states that Rossese di Dolceacqua must contain at least 95% Rossese, with up to 5% non-aromatic indigenous varietals. Alcohol levels are 12 and 13% for the Vino D'Annata and Superiore, respectively, and while the Vino D'Annata can be released in the spring following the harvest, the Superiore must be held until November 1.

I stopped at the Regione Liguria's stand at Vinitaly and asked to taste through all of their Rossese di Dolceaqua (there is also a Rossese della Riviera Ligure di Ponente) and they kindly agreed, beginning with the lighter (and younger) wines and working through to the older Rossese Superiore, for a total of 14 wines.

It was both interesting and enjoyable; I especially liked the freshness and rich aromatic makeup of the younger Rossese. The older Superiore wines change in character, becoming more brooding, and while pleasant are less invigorating and less approachable.

In terms of accompaniments, Rossese combines rich fruit and intense aromatics with relatively light tannins, and in this respect brings to mind a couple of the more aromatic Piemontese wines, in particular Pelaverga di Veduno and Ruché. Like them, it will be versatile and in addition to working well with white meats (Rossese's Assessorato al Turismo suggests rabbit, and I would also venture grilled fish) it will work well with some foods that are harder to pair, including bell peppers, and I would expect it to go nicely with mild Chinese, Thai and Indian dishes whose spicing would clash with more tannic reds.

Pale cherry ruby with pink rim. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and sandalwood supported by berry fruit and some greenish vegetal notes. Intriguing, and there is also some wild cherry. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sandalwood laced spice and pleasant mineral acidity that flows into a clean sandalwood laced finish with mineral underpinning.
2 stars

Pale pink ruby with brilliant reflections and pale rim. Elegant bouquet with delicate sour cherry fruit supported by violets and sandalwood, quite harmonious and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's light, and fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and sweet slight tannins that flow into a long warm lasting finish with slightest hints of sandalwood to provide depth. Extremely pleasant, and a wine that you won't forget easily.
90-91

Pale pinkish ruby; it's lighter than some, and has brilliant reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brooding sandalwood and minerality supported by some berry fruit; it's more massive than some. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit laced with minerality and some sandalwood, and light sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It's fairly direct, and a bit more powerful than some, working more with solidity that finesse.
1 star

Pale ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by sandalwood and some savory notes, and also hints of camphor. A touch blocky, but it is recently bottled. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that are slight and have some sandalwood spice to them. A simple, direct interpretation of Rossese that's a touch less acidic, ad therefore a touch less brash than some.
1 star

Fairly deep pale cherry ruby with white rim and brilliant reflections; it's darker than some. The bouquet is pleasant, with brandied sour cherry fruit that has some jammy accents and pleasant spice with an underpinning of sandalwood; it gives an impression of greater ripeness of the grapes. On the palate it's bright with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by spice and sweet tannins, and to a greater degree than in others minerality more than acidity; the impression of greater grape ripeness on the nose is perhaps confirmed by the lesser acidity. It's pleasant in a less aggressive and more easygoing key, and does have a willowiness to it.
2 stars

Slightly darker ruby with hints of brisk in the rim; it's the first of the 2009s. The bouquet is intense, and herbal, with some petroleum and red berry fruit and considerably less in the way of bright sandalwood. A year makes a difference. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sandalwood laced sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with sandalwood underpinning. Pleasant, and quite approachable, though a touch blocky.
1 star

Pale almandine ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by delicate spice and minerality. On the palate it's delicate, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by warm minerality and hints of sandalwood that gain depth from slight tannins and flow into a long warm mineral finish. It's pleasant in a rather soft key, and though I might have liked a little more richness overtones the fruit it is harmonious.
2 stars

Fairly rich cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and red berry fruit supported by hints of tar and minerality; nice power in a delicate key, though not as fresh as the younger wines. On the palate it's light tending to medium bodied, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity that is more mineral than fruit, and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly direct finish. It's more concentrated, but lacks acidity and brightness, and is therefore a little more settled than I might have liked.
1 star

This is a little older, and is a deeper ruby tending more towards garnet. The bouquet is moderately intense with delicate berry fruit supported by minerality and spice, and pleasing warmth. On the palate it's delicate, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some herbal notes and hints of sandalwood, and by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are rather slight and smooth, and flow into a clean warm sour cherry laced finish with some bitter sandalwood accents. Pleasant, and will be fairly versatile.
2 stars

This is a 2007. Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is dusky, with sour cherry fruit and warmth mingled with some heather. Not much in the way of spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with rather languid cherry plum fruit supported by moderate by moderate acidity and minerality, and by some up peppery spice that derives from the tannins, and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Graceful in a light languid key, and shows that Rossese can hold well for a few years. Pleasant and quite easy to drink, in a less brash key than the younger wines.
2 stars

I also tasted a few more reds from Imperia, all Ormeasco, which is the local name for Dolcetto. I confess I am not tremendously familiar with Ormeasco, but Jeremy Parzen says, " Ormeasco wine has a more intense floral bouquet and a brighter color than Dolcetto from Piemonte but preserves the pleasant dark chocolate like bitterness found in Piemontese Dolcetto." (From How to Pronounce Italian Wine, where Jeremy also gives an interesting account of how Dolcetto got to Pornassio.)

Deep cherry ruby with violet reflections and pale cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense at first swish, while further swishing brings up some violets and cherry fruit supported by slight bitter almond. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight bitter almond cast to them and flow into a lastingly warm finish. Pleasant and will drink quite well with a variety of foods. Light.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Durin Ormeasco di Pornassio Passito DOC 2009This is a dessert wine; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dusky cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with sweetness and hints of brown sugar mingled with cherry fruit that has some sweet accents and jammy brandied overtones, with hints of bell pepper jam and spice as well. Takes a while to open, and gives and impression of being rather shy. On the palate it's fairly rich, with dusky rather bitter cherry fruit supported by sweetness and bitter accents, and tannins that have a cool rather brooding burr to them and flows into a dusky tannic finish. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which ends up surrendering to the tannins more than it might have.
1 star

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by delicate acidity and some vegetal notes. On the palate it's medium bodied and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable, though a touch more acidity would have been nice, and will likely be there in a vintage that wasn't quite as hot.
2 stars

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

It seems that the Consorzio in Montalcino has convened a meeting (for next week, as the harvest is getting under way!) to discuss the possibility of allowing the use varietals other than Sangiovese in Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello's little brother.

Reading between the lines, the goal is to allow the inclusion of Merlot (most likely) or perhaps one of the Cabernets, and in either case the move would be boneheaded because Montalcino's best, most unique (and inimitable) wines are Sangiovese in purezza. Nick Belfrage has written an eloquent appeal against the proposal, which Franco Ziliani has rebroadcast (in English and now in Italian too), and rather than restate what Nick has said so well I suggest you read his appeal, and also the very interesting commentary that follows it.

As you might guess the news of this meeting of the winemakers has resulted in a great deal of talk among wine writers. Some have said there should be no Merlot (or any other imported varietal) in Montalcino. I'm not quite so drastic; Montalcino has a secondary umbrella Appellation called Sant'Antimo for wines that include grapes other than Sangiovese. It's where Montalcino's Merlot belongs.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

In my first years working with wines, especially with regards to Montalcino, I regularly crossed paths with a distinctive person: he was very tall and robust, and stood out not just for his height, but also for his incredible knowledge of wines. He very much liked Biondi Santi's wines, but also Sangiovese in general, and I often noted him hesitating when faced with the "odd" Brunelli that then were fashionable. I asked, and found out he had a restaurant in Fabriano, where he served the wines he liked, even though (then) they weren't exactly in fashion. I subsequently had the occasion to eat several times in his restaurant, which was in the old cellars of a beautiful villa that once belonged to a man who became an icon, the Marchese del Grillo.

Our tall gentleman with the extraordinary knowledge of wines and love of true Sangiovese was and is Lanfranco D'Alesio; in 1990 he opened the restaurant that takes its name from the volcanic and widely known Marchese, as well as the villa whose cellars it is in, which has now also become a beautiful Relais.

When I went in the past the place was quite elegant, with tables nicely separated; the service was exacting, on time, and not asphyxiating; the dishes didn't display the flights of fancy then in vogue, but were based on the ingredients and prepared to perfection. The cellars were one of the place's strong points, with wines of the sort that have now come back into fashion thanks to the abrupt course-change of many then hypermodernist critics. The key elements were, however, Wife Emanuela in the kitchen, and that great friendly man whose eyes shined at the mention of certain wines, and who had to sit on his hands to keep from opening great bottles for the sheer joy of doing so.

Many years passed, and I lost track of the Marchese del Grillo, until, during the hottest part of last June a winemaker from the Marche invited me to lunch, and took me there.

Given the asphyxiating temperatures we're suffering now you'll easily understand how nice it was to escape the June heat for the restaurant's cool halls. At first it seemed time had stood still: elegant settings, muted sounds, in other words the classic high level restaurant that wears its class lightly, inviting you to come in and relax. But I didn't want to relax, because I was looking for that tall unmistakable figure with whom I had shared glasses and comments 20 years previously. Instead I beheld a young smiling man who reminded me of someone; I introduced myself and he replied, "My pleasure, I'm Mario D'Alessio." I thus discovered the Lanfranco and Emanuela's soon had taken over the restaurant a while back. And more: his sister Serena, who is just as young, handles the kitchen. I don't have the courage to ask about Lanfranco (as I said, the years slide by...) but Mario reassures me, saying his father has a new passion: Winemaking in the Abruzzo.

Now I can relax, and appreciate Serena's cooking, which renewed but didn't revolutionize her mother's. An example, the Parmigiana of eggplant and mussels from the Conero region with potato chips, a plate based upon great ingredients (especially the wonderful and almost impossible to find mussels) and upon a light hand that gives lightness to the Parmigiana. We mustn't forget the Marchigiana beef Carpaccio with tuna sauce, delicate salad, and pineapple, and, among the first courses the gnocchi stuffed with fresh cheese, tomato and basil, or the classic maccheroni di Campofilone. Among the main courses meats predominate, in particular Marchigiana beef, though they also have lamb and pork. Recommendable, even in hot weather, the local grilled platter, and the capocollo with carrot an licorice sorbet.

The wine list, now handled by Mario, has developed over the years while maintaining the foundations Lianfranco laid, even though he has taken into account more or less passing vagueries of fashion. I guarantee that returning to that cellar (if I hadn't I wouldn't have relaxed) and seeing the "right" labels at proper prices made me young again, at least for a few moments.

Someone muuuuuuch older than me said, "rarely does human experience pass through to the upper branches," but in the case of the Marchese del Grillo the teachings of the parents were fully understood by the children, leading the restaurant to new heights.

I could not but be happy about this, especially after passing over their tiramisu, which would certainly have tied me down to my chair.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:

Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)

Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino

Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon

Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno

Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)

Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yields? 100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.

Cellaring? As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.

Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 27 2011.

The Superiori (what everyone had come to taste) were almost all 2008s, though a few winemakers presented 2007 or 2006 wines. Though it's difficult to generalize given the small number of non-2008 wines, I had the impression that 2007 was more variable, and also more overripe.

The order is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with, followed by a couple of wineries that didn't present reds:

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Impronte Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep almandine with black reflections.The bouquet is vinous and quite bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by savory accents and some sea salt, and slight brambles, with underlying mentholated spice and some graphite shaving bitterness. Vigorous. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly direct, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly tannins that have some bitter dusky accents and flow into a clean brambly sour cherry finish. It's very young, and fairly aggressive, brings to mind a bramble parch in some ways, but is quite pleasant if you like this fairly aggressive style, and will work very well with grilled red meats, aging nicely for several years too.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and some brick tinges. The bouquet is fresh and opulent, with cassis and slight menthol supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some cedar, while there is also an underlying jammy sweetness that brings a starlet in a glass to mind. On the palate it's a little lighter than I expected, with less fruit and more dusky bitterness; the fruit is pleasant cassis, supported by moderate acidity and very smooth tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a long graphite-laced finish with some savory note. Pleasant in a very international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Obizzo Bolgheri Vermentino 2010Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is intense, with gunflint and bitter herbal accents mingled with some bitter almond and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with considerable bitter gunflint minerality supported by some mineral acidity, and flowing into a fairly long bitter finish with pleasant savory citric accents. Elegant, and displays pleasing deftness; it will work well as an aperitif or throughout the meal, and will be a pleasant summer wine.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Agoghé Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal-laced sour berry fruit supported by some sea salt and sour raspberry acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich sour raspberry fruit supported by moderately intense brambly acidity with slight greenish accents; it's pleasant, and extremely approachable; if you like wines with considerable verve and acidity you may find it less interesting, but a more average wine drinker will appreciate the fact that it is bright but not tremendously so.
2 stars

Ceralti Ceralti Alfeo Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, and slightly balsamic, with sour berry fruit supported by slight stable straw and fairl warmth with slight green leather as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory bitterness and tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct key; it's a little scrappier than some, with brambly acidity that emerges proudly on the palate and carries through into the finish. If you prefer smoother more fruit driven interpretations of Bolgheri it won't work as well for you, but if you like more aggressive wines it will be quite good with mixed grilled meats.
2 stars

Ceralti Bolgheri Vermentino 2010Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with tropical fruit mingling with slight sweetness and some citric accents, though what really comes out is the tropical fruit. On the palate it's fairly ripe, with warm pineapple fruit supported by some grapefruit acidity, and a far amount of warmth. It's a little more lavish than some, and a bit riper; with a hints of sweetness as well that continues into the finish, which has nice acidity and peppery accents.
2 stars

Ceralti Nubia Bolgheri Bianco 2010Pale apricot orange with almost tan reflections; it brings onion skin to mind, and this is a bit unusual in a white from white grapes. The bouquet is odd, a fellow taster says muddled, with melon and some scalded milk and some savory notes. Perhaps an alternative fermentation method? On the palate it's savory, with fairly intense minerality and some peppery spice, and flows into a fairly long tart savory finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and the wine is more of a food wine than something to drink far from the table; it will be versatile and has the acidity necessary to work well with zesty summer foods.
1 star

Note: It's not the fermentation that's alternative, but, as I discovered when working through the key after the tasting, the grape: This is a Cabernet Sauvignon fermented In Bianco, made by pressing the grapes and separating the must from the skins before they have time to impart color.

Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange, looks old for a 2008. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a rush of mentholated spice mingled with cedar and some shellac, and a slight savory underpinning. A lot of oak, and at present it almost completely overshadows the fruit. On the palate it's smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, displaying polish and chocolaty accents that are from wood. It's deft and smooth in a fairly powerful very international key, and there is fruit, or it wouldn't have managed to overcome the oak on the palate. This said, you should only consider it if you like this heavily oaked style, because it takes it to an extreme. If you prefer wines with more acidity and aggressiveness it won't work for you.
2 stars

Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with savory berry fruit supported by lively brambly acidity and greenish cedar with some penetrating spice, and slight menthol as well, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's moderately intense, with br supported by considerable cocoa-laced very polished tannins that flow into a cocoa-laced cedar finish with savory underpinning. It's well made and quite polished, and also harmonious, though I found myself wishing for a little more fruit, which might have required rethinking the harmony, but would have given a little more excitement.
1 star

I Luoghi Podere Ritorti Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory berry fruit supported by moderate sour cherry acidity and slight minty accents, with underlying vegetal notes, and nice spice. It's rather graceful, in a lacy sort of way. On the palate it's not quite as bright as I expected; the fruit is fairly rich and quite ripe, with plums and hints of prunes, and is supported by moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are very smooth, displaying considerable polish and quite a bit of cocoa that flows into a fairly long bitter chocolate-laced finish with a warm savory underpinning. Pleasant in a very international key, and if you like the style you will like it; the savory notes in the finish keep it from settling, and this is nice.
2 stars

I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore 2008Brick ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum jam laced with cedar and balsamic warmth, with some wood smoke and sea salt as well. Also a fair amount of oak. On the palate it's not as rich as I expected; there is plum fruit, but is supported more by bramble than acidity, and by greenish vegetal accents and sea salt, while the tannins are smooth and sweet. My quibble is more stylistic than substantive because I tend to prefer acidity in wines, and here the fruit is working more with minerality and vegetal notes (the Cabernets?) and thus reaches a slightly different end. Well; if you like the style it will drink quite well with grilled meats or light roasts, and also will age nicely for up to a decade.
2 stars

Tenuta di Vaira Bolgherese Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep pyrope, close to poured ink. The bouquet is bright, with cassis supported by sour berry fruit acidity and slight wet leaves, with some savory notes as well. Quite young. On the palate it's middle of the road in key, with nice moderately intense cassis fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and tannins that though smooth do have a hint of bramble to them and a fair amount of graphite shaving bitterness that flows into a clean rather savory sour currant finish with fairly bright greenish acidity. It brings to mind a wide-eyed smiling tomboy, and will drink quite well with grilled or roasted meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong prune jam (home-made) supported by slightly balsamic acidity and a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with warm sour prune fruit supported by warmth and tannins that are very smooth, and flow into a long sour prune finish with savory greenish bitterness that continues at length. If you prefer a sweeter cast of ripeness it won't work as well (if at all) for you, but if you like this style it will drink very well with hearty stews or roasts; Bolgheri's classic boiled boar's head comes to mind.
2 stars

Greppi Cupi Rubino dei Greppi Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit mingled with slightly greenish yellow peach, which a wood-fruit interaction, and some menthol too, as well as some spice. Nice depth in a muscular key. On the palate it's ample, with a different fruit cast than I expected; rather than red berry fruit there's plum/prune mingled with some vegetal notes and balsamic warmth, supported by smooth sweet tannins that have warm cedar and a savory underpinning that carries into the finish. Pleasant if you like the style, and will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Slightly orange ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though the next brings up menthol and some graphite shavings mingled with savory minerality and green bell peppers. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly bright minerality and bell peppers supported by warm mineral acidity and by smooth cocoa-bitter chocolate tannins that flow into a long cocoa laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with red meats in the short term, and also age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar that has some milky accents; it's still rather disjointed. On the palate it's more together, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth tannin that have some savory notes to them and some steely backbone, and flow into a long warm slightly balsamic berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and one could drink it, though those blessed with patience will be richly rewarded; it has quite a ways to go in a graceful key.
88-90

Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino 2010 pale brassy white with brilliant brassy gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is charged, with white berry fruit supported by some butterscotch and as it opens greenish mineral accents that become quite intense, and slight scalded milk too. On the palate it's ample and more languid than the nose suggests, though there is some greenish bitter minerality to it. I'd have liked a little more bite to the acidity, which lacks verve.
1 star

Campo al Mare Baia al Vento Bolgheri Superiore 2008Poured purple garnet ink. One could fill a fountain pen with it. The bouquet is powerful, with squeezed currant fruit supported by spice and some savory accents, and as it opens some stewed bell pepper; it's decidedly voluptuous, of the Jayne Mansfield in a glass sort. On the palate it's full, with rich cassis fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are very smooth with an abundant graphite shaving burr, and by a fair amount of alcohol as well, and flow into a long bitter finish with an alcoholic underpinning. It's very charged, ripe, and quite opulent, and is a wine you should consider only if you like this style.
2 stars

Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is intense, with riep cherry fruit supported by airy cedar and some yellow peach, and also by some cedary bitterness that increases in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity and by tannins that are cedar laced with considerable bitterness, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish with underlying spice. The oak will fold in some with time, but the bitterness will likely remain.
1 star

Tenuta Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Bianco 2010Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal-laced lemony fruit supported by fairly bright citric acidity and some languidity, with gooseberry accents that bring Sauvignon to mind. On the palate it's bright, with lively vegetal-laced minerality supported by sour lemon acidity and tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a long greenish gooseberry finish that's quite savory. Pleasant, and will be versatile, working well as an aperitif with fish or vegetable based antipasti, and also be nice at table, with hearty fish or vegetable based pasta dishes, and also with fish, ranging from flavorful grilled fish through fried fish. Also with oriental.
2 stars

Tenuta Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Rosato 2010

Salmon with brilliant reflections and onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and bitterness mingled with sour berry fruit and greenish apricot. It has verve. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by savory acidity and slight tannins; it's fairly zesty and versatile, and will drink well with a wide variety of foods, from creamy first course dishes through fried fish or even meats. In short, a versatile summer wine.
2 stars

Aia Vecchia Sorugo Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with jammy prune fruit supported by warmth and a fair amount of green slightly stewed bell pepper. On the palate it's ample and rich, with cassis fruit supported by some balsamic warmth and greenish bell pepper, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly sweet finish with cedar and fruit. It's quite approachable, in a rather direct way, and will drink quite well with foods that aren't too fatty. If you're looking for a wine to think about this isn't it, at least not for me, but if you want to set something out that your friends will drink and enjoy, this will do a fine job.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Guado de' Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore 2008Inky pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with berry fruit and bell pepper, and some warmth, and as it opens brambly cedar that brings wet paper to mind. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and warmth, and by very smooth tannins that though sweet to have a slight dusky cherty bitterness to them, and flow into a long cedar laced finish. It's quite international and quite approachable with nice balance and harmony; if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you are looking for a wine to think about, this one isn't going to work as well for you.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Le Grottine Bolgheri Vermentino 2010Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some gunflint too, and some heather, and as it opens greenish vegetal accents also emerge. On the palate it's more languid than I would have expected, with slightly bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity and glycerin, while there is also peppery spice on the tongue, and it flows into a greenish rather vegetal finish with savory underpinning. A good food wine for the summer.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arnione Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep pyrope with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is rich, with powerful jammy cassis fruit supported by some menthol and slight spice, in a cinnamon cast; it's like sticking one's nose in a jam pot where someone put a sprig of mint. Harmonious and opulent. On the palate it's full and very smooth, with powerful cassis fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, only revealing their youth in the finish, where some cedar emerges. If you like big, smooth, rich fruit driven wines that are quite ripe but not overripe you will enjoy it. Think MM in a glass (with that amazing dress she wore in Some Like it Hot) and you have an idea of the style.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Achenio Bolgheri Bianco 2010Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with heather and some minerality supported by some greenish accents and hints of scalded milk; as it opens citric acidity also emerges. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bitter white berry fruit supported by minerality and some mineral acidity, and flows into a clean rather mineral finish. Direct, a wine that will drink well with simple summer dishes.
1 star

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arioso Bolgheri Bianco 2010

Pale brassy white with white rim. Paler than most. The bouquet is intense, with sweaty blonde -- almost redhead -- accents that I associate with Sauvignon, and some spice. On track, but a fairly nice track. On the palate it's bright, with lively vegetal-laced citric acidity supported by some sea salt and pleasant spice, and it flows into a long warm citric finish. Pleasant, and if you like the style, which is bright and fairly aggressive though not lemon juice, and the varietal, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia 2008Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with savory notes and greenish cedar that largely overshadow the fruit. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins that are rich and smooth, and flow into a fairly long smooth tannic finish. It's quite approachable in a rather brooding key; the fruit isn't as bright as I might have liked it to be, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2008Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some wood smoke supported by alcohol and warmth, and some underlying jammy prune fruit. On the palate it's harmonious, with moderate prune fruit supported by warmth and cedar laced tannins that come to the fore, overshadowing the fruit. The overall effect is harmonious, but you have overtones like oaked wines. If you prefer wines that are more fruit forward it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino 2010Pale brassy white with brassy highlights and slight hints of green too. The bouquet is bright, with lively greenish vegetal accents laced with citrus fruit and some sour lemon acidity. Charged. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by some sea salt and moderate lemony acidity that flows into a warm rather soft citric finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato 2010

Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish sour forest berry fruit supported by hints of scalded milk and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by faint tongue tingling petillance that confers a peppery note to it, and by deft acidity. It's still coming together and could be better, perhaps even considerably better than it is now in the space of 2-3 months. A wine to reserve judgment on.

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and some berry fruit mingled with savory notes and some spice; as it opens it brightens nicely, but is in any case very young. Harmonious too. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with elegant cherry plum fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are quite at the outset, though they do display a bell pepper laced cedary burr in the finish, with is quite long, with greenish cedary accents. It's not quite a work in progress but not finished either; this said it's quite elegant in a decidedly international key, and has the wherewithal to age well for many years.
2 stars

Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by savory notes and a fair amount of bitter chocolate, and also by a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish brambly accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with bright cherry fruit that has some jammy plum accents and is supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a clean bright slight greenish fruit laced finish. Harmonious, and though the pieces are assembled it's still coming together; quite elegant and will also age nicely for a decade at least.
2 stars

Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore 2008Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is elegant in a rather sumptuous key, with warm berry fruit at first sniff that gives way to balsamic acidity and slight mint; it gives an impression of vastness but is harmonious and nicely balanced. On the palate it's full, with rich warm cedar laced fruit supported by balsamic acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth at the outset, though they do reveal a cedary burr and flow into a long warm slightly bitter finish. It's quiet approachable and will drink well with succulent meats, though it will reward those with the patience to give it 5-8 years.
2 stars

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather pungent key, with some balsamic accents and wet stable straw mingled with warmth and some spice. On the palate it's mineral more than fruit driven, with ample graphite laced mierlaity that has some prune accents, and some bell pepper notes, and is supported by warmth, smooth tannins, and quite a bit of alcohol, while the bell peppers come out strongly in the finish. Coming on the heels of the 2008 vintage, it's much more brambly, and because of its alcoholic warmth will work well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars

Batzella Tám Bolgheri Superiore 2007 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with quite a bit of cedar at first swish, supported by bell pepper and berry fruit with some sea salt as it opens, while the cedar continues to provide a foundation. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively sour forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar laced burr with some cocoa overtones, and flows into a warm bell pepper laced finish with some savory minerality. Pleasant, with an invigorating brashness, and if you like the style it will work very well with a steak or a hearty roast, for example leg of lamb.
2 stars

Batzella Mezzodí Bolgheri Bianco 2010Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rather pungent, with vegetal notes and the heather of a Tuscan field supported by some gunflint and slight peppery spice. On the palate it's fairly direct, with greenish minerality supported by some white berry fruit and by greenish savory citric acidity that flows into a rather bitter finish. Direct, and will work quite well with foods, ranging from summery vegetable based pasta dishes or risotti though roasted or fried fish. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Batzella Pinsky Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale slightly pinker than onionskin pink. The bouquet is bright, with raspberry citric fruit supported by deft sour raspberry acidity and some alcohol. Fresh and young. On the palate it's light, with bright sour raspberry and red currant fruit supported by lively acidity and slight tannins that flow into a brambly tart finish. Perfect for fish at a cookout or with fried foods, and will also be a nice picnic wine.
2 stars

Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore 2007 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening; there's bright red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and acidity that makes me think of Aleatico and a fellow taster of fruit mixed with yogurt, and some sweetish jammy underlying accents too. Odd. On the palate it's bright, with bell pepper laced berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that have grilled pepper accents and considerable warmth, and flow into a long warm spicy finish with sandalwood accents. It marches to a different drummer, and if his beat is yours you will enjoy it. But only then.
1 star

Michele Satta Costa di Giulia Bolgheri Bianco 2010Pale brassy white with brassy greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with heather and citric acidity and a certain underlying languidity. On the palate it's fairly direct, with greenish minerality supported by fairly bright sour lemon acidity that carries into a long sour lemon finish. A fine food wine that will work very well with fried fish or meats and vegetables, and other zesty summer fare as well, both fish and meat based. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Michele Satta Giovin Re Bolgheri Vermentino 2010Brassy yellow with brassy lemony reflections and pale brassy rim. More charged than many of the others. The bouquet is ripe, with tropical fruit, a mix of loquat and banana supported by greenish minerality and acidity. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with warm citric fruit supported by soft citric acidity, and by slight greenish vegetal notes that also have peppery accents and flow into a lemony finish with unusual banana accents. It's bigger and softer than many, and also more charged. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star

Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with jammy prune fruit supported by some brandied prunes and slight lactic notes and spice, with some cedar. On the palate it's fairly bright on the outset, with rich berry fruit that's more to red berry fruit than I expected, supported by minerality and acidity, and by tannins that have greenish splintery burr and flow into a bell pepper laced finish with underlying tannic burr. It's more aggressive, and you have to like the style; if you do it will work quite well with a steak or roast.
2 stars

Antonino Tringali Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by some lactic notes, and as it opens jammy plum notes. On the palate it's full, with rich bell pepper laced fruit supported by savory acidity and by tannins that have dusky graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, with fruit that's ripe but far from overripe, and tannins that have a steely elegance to them. If you like the style, which isn't particularly soft -- there's balsamic mineral acidity lurking about -- it will work quite well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Antonino Tringali Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato 2010Pink with slight salmon accents and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up wild strawberries and some spice, and also slight greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly bright and savory, with savory minerality and acidity more than fruit, flowing into a savory finish with some tannic accents. It's direct, and will drink well with simple foods, and also be a nice picnic wine.
1 star

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Vignaré Bolgheri Superiore 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy with greenish brambly accents and bell peppers more than berry fruit, and some bright rather brambly greenish acidity. On the palate it's quite smooth, and rather bitter, with roasted green peppers supported by graphite shavings and warm savory acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and bright, with a warm peppery burr that continues into a fairly long rather alcoholic finish. It's pleasant, in a far from fruit driven key; it revolves more around the vegetal accents of the varietals, and if you like that you will enjoy it. If you prefer berry fruit you won't as much.
2 stars

Poggio al Tesoro Cassiopea Rosato Bolgheri 2010Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and mineral, with some sour red berry fruit as well. Still coming together. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich sour raspberry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity and slight tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a fairly tart slightly vegetal laced finish. Pleasant, in an approachable key with a bit more acidity than the above, and will work very well with foods.
2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Campofitto Bolgheri Vermentino 2010 Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy yellow highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes and a fair amount of alcohol supported by some rather brambly spice and bitter almond skins too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright lemony fruit supported by slightly gunflint minerality and mineral acidity that flow into a fairly bright finish in which the acidity shifts more towards loquat. It will drink quite well with grilled or rfird fish, and also will work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale salmon-rose pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively sour wild strawberries supported by some raspberry acidity and some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents that flow into a fairly long peppery finish. A direct wine that's quite up front and will be nice at a picnic or a cookout featuring fish.
2 starsTerre del Marchesato

Terre del Marchesato Papeo Bolgheri Vermentino 2009Brilliant brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with loquat and white berry fruit supported by sweetness and some greenish minerality with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with minerality more than fruit, and savory accents too that flow into a fairly long bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and will work well with foods, though it's not a wine to sip by the glass far from the table.
1 star

Terre del Marchesato Nobile Muffato Bolgheri Vermentino 2007Brassy yellow with brilliant lemony reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite distinct from all the others, with rich citric fruit supported by botrytis and greenish accents and quite a bit of alcohol, with some sweetness as well. Unusual. On the palate it's rich and sweet, with bright botrytis-laced lemony fruit supported by bright loquat lemon acidity and by sweetness that gives it a rather voluptuous feel, and flows into a long warm sweet finish kept interesting by citric acidity. It's interesting, and a nice expression of botrytis in a wine from the coast. You may wonder how it compares to the famed botrytized French wines; it's much simpler, but does have a pleasing sunniness to it that is rather enjoyable.
2 stars

Note: the key says it's from grapes that are harvested in early November, and barrel fermented.

Casa di Terra Vermentino Bolgheri 2010 Brilliant brassy gold with pinkish ripe banana reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with herbal accents and slight sweetness mingled with bitter almonds and some citrus. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than the others, with ample minerality supported by some sea salt and peppery accents that flow into a fairly rich sour mineral finish with peppery accents. It's fuller, and more languid than some, and will work well with richly flavored fish.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Allegria Bolgheri Rosato 2010 http://www.fattoriacasaditerra.com/
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly sour red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents; fresh and bracing. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by bright citric more than berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are light, and flow into a fairly long citric finish. What a Rosé should be, light and zesty, and will drink very well with a wide variety of summer foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

I have always enjoyed Carpenè Malvolti's wines, and make a point of stopping at their stand during Vinitaly to taste both their Prosecco (their fist wines, and still the bulk of their wines) and their Arte della Spumantistica wines, wines made primarily from other grapes (and from other regions).

Their Prosecco is a solid interpretation of the varietal, which is consistent from vintage to vintage and quite pleasant to drink, especially if you find the higher acidities that generally are associated with Champagne or some of the other more "serious" sparkling wines a bit much, while the latter are quite interesting and quite enjoyable.

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Brut 2010
Pale papery white with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with savory notes and some fresh floral accents, and hints of apple as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively apple fruit supported by fairly bright apple acidity and by the sparkle, which confers a lively fullness. Quite approachable, and will drink nicely either as an aperitif or throughout a meal built around cheeses (risotti and such), fish, or white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Storica 2010 This is their classic Prosecco; it's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with apples and slight crisp sweetness that gives the apples a granny smith cast, and some acidity as well. Nice balance and inviting. On the palate it's bright, and moderately sweet, with fairly rich apple fruit that gains creaminess from the sparkle, and support from deft granny smith apple acidity, and flows into a clean fresh apple finish with underlying sweetish minerality. Quite approachable, and will work very well as an aperitif. It's a little more languid than the cuvee brut, and a touch sweeter, and as a result is perhaps less suited to the table. 2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Oro Prosecco Dry 2010 Brassy white with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with delicious apples and some mentholated spice, supported by some sugars. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with delicious apples supported by sparkle, which confers creaminess, and apple acidity that flows into a fairly long clean apple laced finish. Its quite approachable in a sweeter key -- that's what Dry is -- and will work well as an aperitif if you prefer somewhat sweeter wines, or with friends at poolside or in the evening as the stars come out. It's not, to my way of thinking, as well suited to being drunk with a meal.
1 star

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Petit Manseng Brut 2010 Ale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and some savory notes mingled with slight savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich bitter minerality supported by some honeysuckle and slight orange peel with hints of candied orange bitterness, and it flows into a clean savory finish. Approachable, in a fairly delicate key, and will be a pleasant aperitif, while it will also work well with delicately flavored dishes throughout a meal.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Viognier Brut 2010 Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate citrus laced acidity -- oranges and hints tangerine -- supported by airiness and some herbal accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, and though brut not bone dry; there's moderately intense lemony fruit supported by warmth and minerality, and creaminess form sparkle, which flow into a fairly long orange and tangerine finish witl underlying minerality. It will be nice as an aperitif or with the meal, working well with fish and also delicate white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cerszegy Brut 2010 Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with elegant lemony fruit supporte dby peppery notes and a certain airiness that is also the sparkle, and by some floral accents as well. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with clean bright mienrlaity and some candied orange peel with the bitterness that comes from the caramelization of the sugars, and pleasant savory underpinning that carries through into the finish, which is fairly loing and rather peppery. Quite enjoyable, and will work well as an aperitif or with grilled fish, inclusing fattier fish such as salmon.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Kerner Brut 2010 Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and white berry fruit supported by deft white berry fruit acidity and some sweet notes; it's quite pleasant and very fresh. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit laced with some loquat acidity and supported by clean minerality, while the sparkle confers a pleasant fullness, and it flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish with slight peppery notes from the sparkle and sea salt that leaves one wanting another sip. Quite pleasant and will work beautifully as an aperitif or throughout the meal. Quite enjoyable.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Rosato Brut 2010 Pale pink with salmon reflections, white rim and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with some red berry fruit and moderate mineral acidity; it's quick to write but quite harmonious and pleasant. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with fresh raspberry fruit supported by pleasant mineral acidity and by sparkle, which confers fullness, while the finish is long and mineral, leaving the palate quite clean. It's quite approachable and will work very well as an aperitif, and also throughout the meal; expect people to like it and ask for more.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cuvée 1868 Brut 2010 This is a special wine developed for Italy's 150th anniversary, from Prosecco, Verdiso, Boschera, Pinot Bianco and Incrocio Manzoni. It's brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense and complex, with citrus -- orange -- and apple fruit mingled with spice and some minerality, and some greenish vegetal accents as well. Nice depth and pleasingly complex in a young key. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral laced apple fruit that gains direction from some sour lemon acidity and is supported by creamy pepperiness form sparkle, and flows into a clean bright sour aplle finish with underlying peppery notes and sea salt. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with the meal; it's not quite as bright as some of the others but displays a little more depth.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Gewürztraminer Brut 2010 Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich floral accents supported by slight sea salt and deft acidity. Quite refreshing. On the palate it's fairly full, with delicate lemony fruit supported by pleasant minerality and some greenish accents that flow into a fairly long lemony finish with greenish mineral underpinning. It's quite approachable, and very much alive thanks to its acidity, and will drink nicely as an apritif or with flavorful fish, including salmon, or also creamy dishes, and if you wanted to do something decidedly adventurous you moght serve it with fried fish and vegetables.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cartizze 2010 Cartizze is the finest hill in Prosecco, and it is in a way surprising that Carpenè Malvolti waited so long to bring out their wine from the hillside's vineyards. It's pale papery yellow with brassy reflections and very fine very intense perlage, and has an elegant bouquet with apples laced with some crisp notes and slight apple acidity; the overall impression is one of considerable harmony. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some granny smith overtones and slight sweetness, not so much as to make it cloying -- by a long shot -- and it flows into along clean granny smith apple finish with slight sweetness. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif, or with the meal; it's a wine that will drink very well with the meal and that will also be nice with friends far from the table, say when the stars are coming out as the sky darkens in summer.
90-91

Thursday, August 04, 2011

Gianfelice and Celeste del Sordo have their stand at Vinitaly across the corridor from Montenidoli, and Elisabetta invited then to dinner a couple of years ago. I enjoyed talking with them considerably, and stopped to taste their wines the next day, coming away quite impressed. So I've been going back...

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano Bianco San severo DOC 2010Lot 80 11Trebbiano, 40% Bombino Bianco and 10% Verdeca. It's brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant floral accents mingled with loquats and some underlying savory notes that add depth; nice balance and fresh, though obviously still developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright lemony mineral fruit that has some grapefruit accents and flows into a long savory mineral finish with grapefruit acidity. Quite fresh and will work nicely as an aperitif or with grilled or roasted fish, and will go quickly. A second bottle would come in handy.2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Catapanus Puglia Bombino Bianco IGT 2010Lot 66 11Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with herbals accents and straw shot through with minerality and supported by some gunflint as well, and an aunderpinning of sea salt. On the palate it's light and savory, with crisp pineapple acidity and some underlying minerality that carries into a fairly long tart finish with lasting acidity. Quite direct, a simple summer wine that will drink very well with grilled or fried fish or meats, and be quite refreshing in any occasion it's served in. Expect it to go quickly and for people to want more.1 star

D'Alfonso del Sordo Candelaro Piglia IGT Bianco 2009Lot 82/10This is Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc barrel fermented separately and then combined in steel. It's brassy gold with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some gooseberry and slight minerality; it's rather graceful. On the palate it's full, with bright gooseberry fruit supported by minerality and gunflint bitterness, while powerful sea salt -- almost like a summer breeze at the beach -- emerges to provide crispness and continues onto the finish, which also has crisp accents. It will work quite well with grilled or roasted fish, and will also age nicely for several more years.2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano Rosato San Severo DOC 2010Lot 73 11This is a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a little out of sorts -- just bottled -- with, as it opens, raspberry and minerality, though it's too soon to say much more. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich minerality supported by bitter accents and sea salt, which flow into a fairly long warm savory finish with pleasant raspberry overtones. Quite nice, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at a cookout, and is a perfect summer wine. Worth seeking out.2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo Rosso DOC 2010This is a bottling for Vinitaly.The same 70-30 Montepulciano-Sangiovese blend as the Rosato. Lively pale ruby with brilliant reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rich for a just bottled wine, with lively floral accents and violets mingled with ripe berry fruit that has some jammy accents and some graphite shavings, and slight vegetal savory notes. On the palate it's light, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitter notes, and by smooth light tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter fruit laced finish. Quite simple, a classic food wine that will drink well throughout the meal, and go quickly.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Montero Puglia IGT Rosso 2009This is a bottling for VinitalyPrimarily Montepulciano with a little Cabernet. Pale cherry ruby with ruby rim and white nail. The bouquet is rich, with fairly intense berry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and slight jammy accents. Still quite young. On the palate it's bright, with rich jammy cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly rich cherry fruit finish. It's quite young and the tannins need another year to come together, but will be graceful in a deft fruit driven key, and age nicely for 3-5 years . Quite promising.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Casteldrione Puglia Uva di Troia IGT 2009This is a bottling for Vinitaly.This is from a younger vineyard planted from cuttings from their older vines; the bunches are a bit smaller than those around Castel del Monte, and have thicker skins. The bouquet is rich, with violets and spice mingling with ripe berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol, and some vegetal accents shot rhtough with sea salt. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with pleasant sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and dusty, flowing into lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and drink nicely with grilled meats or light roasts.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Contrada del Santo Puglia IGT Rosso 2006Lot 56/2008This is 80% Uva di Troia and 20% Merlot. It's deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol and greenish accents supported by plum berry fruit and some balsamic notes; there's also some sea salt and some walnut skin bitterness. On the palate it's ripe, with rather exotic balsam-laced red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal Merlot, and by deft mineral acidity that flows into a long prune finish with some mineral underpinning. A nice blend and the Merlot does tame the wilder aspects of the Nero di Troia; it's quiet approachable in what is perhaps an exotic key for those used to just French varietals, but will work very well with hearty roasts or grilled meats.88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo DogaNera Daunia IGT 2006Lot 8246This is a Merlot, and is deep cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with ith cedar-laced balsamic berry fruit supported by warmth and pleasant spice with mentholated accents. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, though not with the softness I generally expect from Merlot; rather the fruit is bright and sour, cherry with hints of citrus, and supported by tannins that are smooth and extremely round, but are also warm and have balsamic notes, and flow into a long fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. Very different from more northerly Merlot, and will drink nicely with hearty roasts or stews; game come to mind, as does leg of lamb or fattier grilled meats such as lamb chops. Particular, but also considerable finesse.88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Cava del Re Daunia IGT 2006Lot 180/09This is Cabernet Sauvignon; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and jammy with red berry fruit supported by pleasant vegetal accents and some savory notes. Nice depth, and riper than some, without bell peppers and such, and a pleasant some bitter cocoa and chocolate too, slight coffee grounds. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant ripe cherry and plum fruit supported by deft minerality and graphite shaving bitterness, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr and some balsamic notes that confer an exotic touch, and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and though it's still young will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts in the sort term, and also age well too.88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Guado San Leo Daunia IGT 2007Lot 22 109Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim and cherry at the nail. The bouquet is powerful, with haunting vegetal laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, and some balsamic notes as well, and nice spice as well. Quite rich and very young. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit laced with vegetal and balsamic accents and supported by fairly brifth berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a greenish peppery burr and flow into a fairly long finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and a step up in terms of vintage quality with respect to the 2006; it's a very young wine, and will age nicely for many years, though one could press it into service now woitu something along the lines of leg of lamb.90-92

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.