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Topic: Questions you may have about March Pumps? post them here (Read 58416 times)

Walter, I use an MDXT-3 pump that I bought 10 years ago from McMaster-Carr. The manual shows the maximum liquid temperature to be 190ºF, however, I regularly pump 200+ water through it. Other than the occassional air lock, what other negative effects should I expect to crop up?

Walter, I use an MDXT-3 pump that I bought 10 years ago from McMaster-Carr. The manual shows the maximum liquid temperature to be 190ºF, however, I regularly pump 200+ water through it. Other than the occassional air lock, what other negative effects should I expect to crop up?

That pump is rated for 190*F....and many people do use it for brewing because they use it for short runs at those hot temps. The concern we have with running it above the 190*F temps, would be more for the long term applications. You may see a softening of the plastic if you were to immedietly take the pump apart and inspect it. And as long as theres no pressure going throught he pump you will probably never have any issues with it. The polypro we use, shows temps ok to 220*F but the issue we have is that with the design of the pump, the back end of the impeller/housing runs hotter due to low fluid turn over during operation. If you take the pump apart occasionaly, just inspect the rear housing for any deformation and same with the imeller...if all looks good then no worry's

During my upgrade to the 815 impeller, I noticed that the teflon washer was long gone. Unfortunately, I only ordered 1 new teflon washer with the impeller.

That 809 HS pump is over 10 years old with about 100 batches. I'm sure the washer was probably gone a while ago, but no ill-effects were noted. How important is that washer and how long (run-time hours) do those washers last?

The cost of the washers is next to nothing, so the only real cost is the shipping. Wish I had ordered a couple of spares.

Thanks for the reply.For now I've elected to pickle the bronze pump head using a mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I found instructions on this process on John Palmer's how to brew website. It was like high school chemistry all over again! I'm much less concerned about any lead making it's way into my brew than before.

The stainless heads are sold out all over the web but I eventually plan that as an upgrade anyway.

So, I'm building my system up and was wondering which March pump would work best for a 10 gallon system? I will be adding a plate chiller as well, probably 40 plate. Any advice would be great!

Thanks,Jason

Sorry guys, i wasnt getting notifications for some reason...anyway getting back on track: Most guys are now ordering the 815-PL....or upgrading their 809-HS pumps with the 815 impeller. The thing i'm not sure about, is how much pressure or restriction that chiller plate would put ont he pump. Once thats figured out then i could size the pump easily.

During my upgrade to the 815 impeller, I noticed that the teflon washer was long gone. Unfortunately, I only ordered 1 new teflon washer with the impeller.

That 809 HS pump is over 10 years old with about 100 batches. I'm sure the washer was probably gone a while ago, but no ill-effects were noted. How important is that washer and how long (run-time hours) do those washers last?

The cost of the washers is next to nothing, so the only real cost is the shipping. Wish I had ordered a couple of spares.

The washers will normally last the life of the pump as long as theres nothing attacking them chmically...or unless you have restriction on the inlet side of the pump sucking the impeller up against it...The newer washers are all white...the older ones were black and sometimes hard to see if they were still there or not....it may be the washer was there but didnt look like it!

Walter, I dropped my 809 off the utility table, It makes a humming sound but that is all. I thought I would ask before taking it to a pump repairman. Any ideas what I could do to fix it?

First thing i would do is remove the pump head off the motor bracket (4 philips screws) and run the motor alone. If it works then the motor bracket shifted slightly and what you need to do is install the pump back on. Plumb it up with water...then just barely loosen the 4 flat head screws holding the bracket tot he motor and tap it around the base till you get the bracket re-aligned again and not rubbing....you'll know when you are close when it starts pumpng again...it will most likely have a metal rubbing sound to it as the drive magnet rubs against the stainless rear cover plate...just make small taps till its quiet again and tighten it all up. If the motor wont go at all then all i can say is send it back to me here and i can try and hammer it back out for you....i have a good streek in fixing these guys as of late!

Thanks for the reply.For now I've elected to pickle the bronze pump head using a mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I found instructions on this process on John Palmer's how to brew website. It was like high school chemistry all over again! I'm much less concerned about any lead making it's way into my brew than before.

The stainless heads are sold out all over the web but I eventually plan that as an upgrade anyway.

Thanks again

No problem...let everyone know how the pickling works out for you incase anyone else is thinking about going brass as well

thanks for sticking this thread at the top. I don't get a chance to frequent here as often as I would like. Seeing this thread just solved an agonizing problem as I had my pump head mounted upside down. Who'd a thunk?? As time passes, I know there will be numerous new brewers buying pumps and trying to use them for the first time. This thread should save them from "pump anxiety" ... thanks again Denny for have Walter's much needed info posted here.

I have an 809 High Flow that I got through more beer about a year ago now. A couple months ago it stopped working. I took the head apart, cleaned everything out and put it back together, oiled the bearings and did a quick check to see if it worked, motor turned on and the impeller turned. I thought that was the end of it. Tried to pump some water and the motor turned, I got an initial surge, but then nothing would pump through. I took the head apart again and found that the impeller was sticking on end of the shaft took some 1200 grit sand paper to the shaft and polished it a little, impeller now turns freely on any part of the shaft. Turned on the pump, same thing, initial surge and then nothing. The pump is definitely primed, it seems to be decoupling from the impeller somehow. What should I look for to try and replace? Bad magnet?

I would like to mount my pump to my brew stand using u-bolts. Looks like I need to use 1/4" diameter, and ~2.25" to 2.5" for the width. Problem is, the largest width u-bolt I can find at 1/4" is 2". Any ideas on how to mount the pump without welding? Is it reasonable for me to drill out the holes in the mounting bracket to get to 5/16"? U-bolts with 5/16" diameters come in larger widths, which is why I ask.

I'm using this diagram to figure out the needed dimensions. U-bolt would be going from front to back (right hand side of diagram).

Don't use U-bolts. I use large hose clamps and wooden saddles (matching the diameters at the attachment points) that encircle the motor can and pump magnet housing. You do not want to put too much pressure (especially if its uneven) on the motor can or you will deform it. This mounting has worked for over 10 years.

Thanks for the tip, Martin. Do you have a pic to help show? I wasn't planning on putting the u-bolts over the housing. I had planned on putting them through holes in the mounting bracket with the pump and bracket sitting on top the stainless steel tube frame. I have the pumps attached to the stand this way right now using some zip ties just so I can make progress on getting all my hoses measured and cut.