But it’s the same cocktail of satisfaction and adrenaline. And if you think about it, it sucks to be Kelly ‘cos he’s gotta do something amazing to get his fix.

Whether it’s you or Kelly, when you get one of these waves it’s standard practice to declare any resolution to “get the next one in” null and void, and paddle madly back out, forgetting not only your real world responsibilities, but also that such a world beyond your five senses exists. That’s my excuse anyway, when I turn up late for work in a suspiciously good mood.

And soon you’ll be able to predict your happiness with the swell forecast too because I’m about to show you how to surf smarter, push through your mental barriers, have more fun, and surf new places.

And this applies to everyone — whether you’re just starting out, or have been surfing for years and just saw some depressing footage of yourself — this article is for you.

Surf Smarter

Paddle out where the waves are breaking last or not breaking at all.

And before those of you who’ve been surfing a while tune out — I’ve been surfing all my life and I still make this mistake. Whether you’re too lazy to walk up the beach, or too impatient to sit down and work it out, it’s time to break the habit of rockin’ up and paddling out.

You’ll thank me when you have the energy to scratch into that wave you would’ve otherwise missed.