Dining Out: L'Ardoise bistro a neighborhood gem

Published 4:00 am, Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Restaurant L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Restaurant L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

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Tiger prawn raviole with sauce vierge and fresh herbs at L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Tiger prawn raviole with sauce vierge and fresh herbs at L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

Image 3 of 3

Traditional coq au vin at L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Traditional coq au vin at L'Ardoise in the Duboce Triangle in San Francisco, Calif., during dinner on Thursday, September 4, 2008.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

Dining Out: L'Ardoise bistro a neighborhood gem

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Peek through the tiny open window into the kitchen at L'Ardoise, and you'll see Thierry Clement with his head bent in sharp concentration. The chef and owner gracefully moves about in a space no larger than a New York City galley-style kitchen.

It's in perfect scale to the 38-seat space, which envelops you like a warm cocoon the moment you push through the cloaks of fabric at the door. Dark burgundy walls, antique wood furniture and soft lighting are reminiscent of a neighborhood bistro in France; tucked away in the residential area of Duboce Triangle, that's exactly what L'Ardoise feels like.

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Almost the entire staff speaks with heavy French accents as they deftly recommend wine or recite the specials and desserts scrawled on large framed chalkboards (a nod to the restaurant's name, which is a direct translation).

The staff seems plentiful for the small space, so pacing is efficient and tables turn over quickly. It's a good thing, too. On all three visits, the restaurant was completely full and seems to be gaining popularity by the day.

From Fringale to L'Ardoise

Clement opened L'Ardoise in March, after spending three years behind the stoves at Fringale in the South of Market district. His current menu has similar rustic bistro entrees, such as a tender, wine-stained coq au vin ($18), but it also features upscale plates including an almond-crusted barramundi ($18) with mushrooms and lobster bisque reduction. The crust on the fish wasn't as crisp as it might have been, but the lobster-scented sauce was so delicious that it was easy to forgive the misstep.

It's a pattern that was repeated on each visit - while a tweak or two would have elevated the food, most of the dishes we tried were good enough that I walked away completely satisfied.

Take the baby iceberg lettuce salad ($8). The smoked olive oil vinaigrette is inventive, and unlike any dressing I've had, especially in a French restaurant. Plus, shavings of soft sheep's milk cheese add a rich counterpoint to the dish. But the iceberg lettuce was pulled apart into thick sheets, causing it to lose some of its crunch once dressed. Had the lettuce stayed in a crisp wedge, it might have worked better.

Likewise, in a ravioli starter ($10), nibs of tiger prawn were enrobed in see-through sheets of pasta that tasted almost like wonton wrappers, in a buttery sauce vierge made with green herbs and lemon. It's a complex and interesting dish, but the sauce suffered from some off-tasting herbs.

The only real disappointment was the tuna tartare ($13). It was so good on one visit - with glossy gems of fish tossed in a bright cornichon-lemon vinaigrette - that I ordered it again on another. This time, however, the tuna was served at warm room temperature, which ruined the dish and made it taste flabby rather than fresh.

For other starters, the duck foie gras terrine ($16) is a good choice, with brioche toast and sweet apricot compote to offset the unctuous liver. One night's special of sweet corn soup ($6) was so silken and delicious that I had to stop myself from licking the bowl.

Entrees are solid and well-priced given the generally rising costs on menus.

Crispy-skinned chicken ($16) is true to its word- the salted, crackling exterior is enticing, with unbelievably juicy meat underneath. And the braised Loch Duart salmon ($23) is well cooked, flaky and moist. It sits in a buttery mushroom broth, with spinach and mashed potatoes to sop up it up.

Ratatouille sideshow

A mound of ratatouille ($17) under a biscuit of puff pastry is perfectly acceptable if you're looking for a vegetarian option, although it's little more than a glorified side dish. Tender eggplant, peppers and tomatoes melt together and are surrounded by pesto and a piquillo pepper coulis. It would be delicious alongside the salty hanger steak ($18) that, despite being cooked rarer than requested, has a lovely charred flavor. The real stars of the steak dish, however, are the salty, just-thicker-than-shoestring fries, which simultaneously crunch and melt in your mouth.

Desserts (all $7) are mainly what you'd expect - a rich creme brulee, and a well-executed deeply caramelized apple tarte Tatin on a buttery shortbread crust. Still, Clement manages to throw in a few surprises, like sweet figs sunk in a pool of sabayon with a torched crust. It's completely unexpected, and quite good.

But that's the exception. For the most part, the chef sticks to what he knows best - comforting French fare that will satisfy a crowd any day of the week. And based on the following he's cultivated in the past six months - both in and outside of the neighborhood - he seems to be right where he belongs.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.

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