Chunky shoes with a load of personality appeared on the runways in Milan at Moncler Gamme Bleu, Prada, and Gucci. At Moncler, designer Thom Browne took a Kiltie, a golf shoe that's been around since 1842, and modernized it with his signature red, white, and blue stripes. The cleats made it clear that these are something reserved for the show, but it'd be nice to see such an impactful graphic in stores come fall.

GQ creative director Jim Moore has spotted plenty on the runways. "So many Kilties, it's amazing," he says. "It's sort of a cross between a mod and a golf shoe, and we haven’t seen that kind of detailing in a long time."

"We saw it at Prada, we saw it Tod's, we saw it at Gucci, we saw it at
Moncler," notes GQ deputy editor Michael Hainey.

Jim thinks the substantial shoes add a bit of personality to conservative menswear. "I think when you're talking about a season when things are a little bit stripped down, a little bit more minimal, or just a little bit cleaner, it's great to kick it off with a character shoe and a Kiltie just adds that extra oomph." The chunky soles are also a nod to the cyclical nature of men's fashion.

At Prada an athletic shoe hybrid harkened back to a collection Jim remembers from eighteen months ago, where designer Muiccia Prada blended the sensibilities of a classic oxford with rubber soles prepared for miles of cement. At Gucci, a couple more layers of wood were added to the bottom of stacked oxfords, delivering footwear that plays up the materials from which they're made. All three designers made it clear that statement-making men's shoes are gaining traction —it'll be more than just sneakers catching your attention on the streets this year.