Post-holiday entertaining comes in many guises, from Super Bowl parties to book club get-togethers. These events typically share one characteristic appreciated by bakers: They are smaller and simpler than the lavish displays of the previous months.

But diminutive does not have to mean lackluster. In fact, a petit pot de creme served with a crisp almond wafer carries a sophisticated flavor profile not suggested by the size of the components.

Bittersweet chocolate forms the base of an indulgent, creamy dessert - denser than a mousse, and a bit easier to prepare. A dollop of whipped cream on top lightens the rich flavor. I sometimes accent the whipped cream by adding a teaspoon or two of maple syrup, brandy or a liqueur, like Grand Marnier.

The almond wafers are reminiscent of a tuile, with more texture, flavor and crunch from the sliced almonds. Because they are not overly sweet, the wafers make a novel accompaniment in savory settings - for example, on a cheese plate.

This kind of dessert is so appealing because the preparation and presentation couldn't be easier. Make and chill the pots de creme up to three days ahead, and the cookies up to a week ahead. Use ramekins or small coffee or custard cups. Serve them at the table or fireside. Set each ramekin on a small plate or each coffee cup on its saucer, for added stability and to provide a resting place for a spoon and wafer.

Now is the time to inaugurate the new bake-ware or serving pieces you may have acquired over the holidays. Put them to delicious use with this luscious, comforting dessert.

Chocolate Pots de Creme

Serves 6

Thanks to Gayle Pirie and John Clark of San Francisco's Foreign Cinema for sharing this recipe. You can make these up to three days before serving.

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, such as Guittard, Ghirardelli or Tcho,

1/2 cup whole milk

3/4 cup heavy cream

3 large egg yolks

1/4 to 1/3 cup sugar, depending on taste

-- Whipped cream, for garnish, if desired

Instructions: Preheat the oven to 300°. Grate chocolate or use a serrated knife to "shave" chocolate into fine pieces; place in a small bowl and set aside.

Heat the milk and cream in a medium saucepan over medium heat until you see small bubbles form along the edges of the pan. While stirring, slowly pour the heated milk-cream mixture over the chocolate and stir to melt the chocolate and blend thoroughly. Set the mixture aside to cool slightly.

In a medium-size bowl, gently combine the egg yolks and sugar with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. Do not create too many bubbles as you mix; they will be hard to settle. Slowly pour the chocolate mixture into the egg yolk mixture, stirring constantly. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a large glass measuring cup.

Arrange six 1/2-cup (4 ounces) ramekins or custard cups in a deep baking dish or roasting pan. Divide the chocolate mixture evenly among the ramekins (approximately 1/4 to 1/3 cup in each). Use a toothpick to pop any residual bubbles on the surface, if necessary.

Fill the pan with hot water to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins, and cover loosely with foil to prevent a skin from forming on the creams. Bake until the creams are firm at the edges but still quiver in the center when gently shaken, about 15-20 minutes. Don't overbake, or the chocolate cream will be grainy.

Remove the pan from the oven and immediately but carefully remove the ramekins from the water. Allow to cool completely before covering and refrigerating for at least 2 hours or overnight to set. Serve chilled, dolloped with whipped cream, if desired.

Naomi's Almond Wafers

I have these on hand at all times for unexpected company, get-well gifts or to accompany a cup of tea at a neighbor's.

2 large egg whites

3/4 cup powdered sugar (spoon and sweep)

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

3 cups (10 1/2 ounces) almond slices, blanched or natural

Instructions: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Place the egg whites in a large bowl; add the powdered sugar and salt, and whisk the ingredients together just until the sugar is incorporated. Stir in the almond and vanilla extracts. Add the almonds and toss the ingredients with a rubber spatula until the nuts are evenly coated.

Working in batches, scoop 1-tablespoon clusters of the mixture (just slightly mounded), onto the prepared baking sheets. Flatten the mounds with the tines of a fork until the cookies are thin, fairly wafer-like and spaced at least 1/2-inch apart.

Bake until the cookies are amber-gold in color and the undersides are not moist or sticky, about 13 to 15 minutes.

Place the rimmed baking sheets on a wire rack and let cool about 2 minutes; transfer cookies to another rack to cool completely. Allow sheets to cool slightly before continuing with the next batch.