Your winter skin primer

Dana Gee, Postmedia News10.25.2013

"The skin can dry up a lot in the winter so moisturizing is very important," said Rivers. "You should also use a gentle cleanser. Especially as the skin gets older we have less oils on our skin so the skin’s barrier function is somewhat compromised."Valua Vitaly
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While you are pulling on that turtleneck sweater and searching for your favourite gloves, take a couple of minutes to think about your most important covering: your skin.

It seems at this time of the year that many of us forget about our largest organ and what the cooler climes can do to it.

In a bid to shake up my own routine and to dust off the detritus of summer sun and self-tanners, I decided to give my skin a fresh start with a facial.

For this I enlisted the help of Kathryn Sawers, the owner/operator of Collective Skin Care in Yaletown.

Located upstairs in BeautyMark, Collective Skin Care is a small but effective operation.

Before even getting into the treatment room I had to fill out an in-depth iPad survey. Among the many questions asked: How stressed are you? How much do you exercise? How often do you have facials? How much do you drink?

The 75 minutes or so spent lying on a heated treatment bed under a light fog of warm steam while Sawers applied and removed various lotions, serums, creams and concoctions (she told me what each was and what it did but at that point my brain was just barely awake) was, in a word, great.

The facial was not only relaxing but afterwards I felt there was an improvement in my skin. It was plumper and smoother (fewer lines, I think). Right then and there I decided that I was going to adopt a new winter skin care regimen.

We turned to several skin care experts for their advice on how to winterize skin.

Dr. Jason Rivers of Pacific Dermaesthetics, a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of B.C., says skin has specific needs during winter.

“The skin can dry up a lot in the winter so moisturizing is very important,” said Rivers. “You should also use a gentle cleanser. Especially as the skin gets older we have less oils on our skin so the skin’s barrier function is somewhat compromised.

“You have to insure you trap moisture or re-moisturize the skin so you can maintain a normal balance on the skin and so you don’t get dry, flaky skin that can crack and then be uncomfortable.”

And remember that sunscreen is not just for summer, Rivers added.

“If you are still doing activities outdoors it is not a bad idea to use sunscreen all year round. Even though the UV is lower in the winter, it still exists,” he said.

“We tell people to get in a habit of using it year round on their face.”

MUST-HAVES AT HOME AND ON THE GO

Amanda Beisel of SKN Holistic Rejuvenation Clinic in Yaletown says this is the time that people should be transitioning their skin-care routine to address the increased dryness and coldness of the weather.

“You need to amp up the hydration factor in your skin regimen and the exfoliation needs to be adjusted a bit. And you need to be focusing on insulating your skin,” said Beisel.

At her clinic, the mantra is a three-step system that involves serums containing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and lipids, along with a really good moisturizer.

Skin oil for the face: To provide your skin with an extra boost of hydration. Apply prior to moisturizer, or add a few drops to your moisturizer to boost hydration.

Mineral primer: This will give your skin a glow while providing hydration. It’s a great option for winter, when a powder feels drying on the skin. Mix it with your SPF and you have a homemade BB cream.

Coconut oil: Not just for cooking! This is a great daily hydrator for your body to use all season long.

Body sugar scrub with oil: This three-in-one product will cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize your skin through the dry winter season. Choose one that uses cane sugar and natural oils.

ON THE GO

Rich hand cream: Hands have thinner skin and are more prone to dryness and cracking during the winter season. Keep a rich hand cream in your purse. Tip: Do not wash hands in overly hot water as this will increase dryness during winter.

Gloves: An extra protective layer for vulnerable hands during the winter season. Plus, they protect hands from UV rays when outdoors.

Lip balm: Keep those lips kissable and hydrated all season long. Choose a balm that contains natural oils and beeswax. If you’re spending lots of time outdoors make sure it also has SPF.

BEWARE HOT WATER ... AND WOOL

There are three things that can wreak havoc on our skin at this time of year, says Dr. Harvey Lui, head of the departments of dermatology and skin sciences at both the University of B.C. and Vancouver General Hospital.

“Issue No. 1 as the winter approaches: It gets colder and the air dries up and the humidity goes down. So the net effect of that is that it basically sucks the moisture out of the skin,” says Lui.

“The second thing that happens is people want to stay warm, so they seek warmth. They turn up their thermostats. They run their fireplaces. If they are showering or bathing they tend to take hotter, longer baths and showers.”

What that hot water does, says Lui, is draw the blood to the skin, which releases histamines that can cause itchiness. Hot water also washes away the good stuff.

“I ask people when they have a sink of dirty, greasy dishes what works better to clean them, hot water or cold water?” says Lui. “Well, they all answer that hot water does. It breaks down the grease. It’s the same with the oils in your skin.”

The third cause of winter skin issues, Lui says, is our winter pursuits.

“Especially here on the West Coast, or even in the Interior of B.C., we like to enjoy outdoor activities,” says Lui. “That could mean going out and skiing and being out in the snow. What people don’t realize is you can sunburn very easily in the snow.

“It’s not the heat that causes the skin damage, it is the UV,” adds Lui, explaining the snow acts as a UV reflector.

So what’s a girl/boy to do help keep the skin plump, pretty and safe from harmful rays?

First up, find a moisturizer you like. It’s a good idea to go a bit heavier this time of year, meaning ditch the ones you can pour. And don’t be bamboozled by price or advertising, said Lui.

“All products work to some extent and you know why? They all have this amazing magic ingredient and that magic ingredient is water,” says Lui.

“So long as the product you use has water as its major component, then it’s going to work because water will be absorbed into the skin and will help to hydrate it. It plumps up the cells, so if you’ve got wrinkly skin, if you’ve got dry, flaky skin, it makes the cells fuller.”

If you have dry, flaky skin avoid products with fragrance — and maybe even switch up your winter wardrobe, adds Lui.

“Don’t wear wool next to your skin. Switch to cotton. The fibre structure of wool is actually quite sharp. It’s like wearing a shield of barbs all over your skin, if you are prone to dry, itchy skin.”

FOODS TO GET YOU GLOWING

Holistic nutritionist Alyssa Bauman of Nourished Health Consulting says there are still many people who don’t connect what they eat with how they feel — and even look.

“If you care about what you put into your body, your outside appearance will be better off,” said Bauman.

We asked Bauman for her list of foods that support healthy skin.

Kale: This dark, leafy green is a powerhouse for the entire body. Rich in vitamins K, A, C and E, minerals, and enzymes including magnesium, fibre, protein, calcium, and omega-3 fats, this superfood helps skin produce fresh new cells and get rid of the old ones, reducing dryness and keeping your face looking bright and young.

Avocado: The monounsaturated fats and vitamin E assist production of collagen, enhance skin tone, and can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Avocados are also rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory nutrients, which leads to healthier cells.

Coconut: The oil, flesh and water of coconuts leave your hair and skin glowing. The medium-chain fatty acids in coconuts boost the immune system and prevent cellular degeneration, which slows the skin’s aging process. Its water is a super hydrator giving the skin a plumped up and supple look. Coconut oil is also great on the skin.

Seafood: Salmon and oysters are loaded with omega-3 essential fatty acids and zinc. Increasing omega-3 intake overall boosts collagen production and hydration, promoting supple, smooth skin. Omega-3s also reduce dryness and inflammation, which leads to premature aging. Zinc assists in new-cell production and the sloughing off of dead skin, giving the skin that glow we all love.

Chia: The richest plant source of omega-3 essential fatty acids, chia is also a source of protein, calcium, potassium and iron. These little seeds pack a big beauty punch as they are high in antioxidants.

FOUNDATION FOR FLAWLESS MAKEUP

Kendra Lovick, co-owner of BeautyMark in Yaletown, knows a thing or two about having a well-stocked supply of skin care products.

Lovick says hydrating is key to a flawless makeup finish.

“You have to be a little bit careful if your skin is a little bit dry,” said Lovick. “Putting on face makeup can sometimes exacerbate the problem and make it even more obvious. You really want your skin to be exfoliated and hydrated if you are going to put on foundation.”

We asked the beauty expert for her winter skin must-haves.

SPF: Make it easy on yourself and get a moisturizer with an SPF in it.

Good mask: The right mask is a great pick-me-up.

Exfoliant: Exfoliate once a week.

Lip balm: Just a plain old simple lip balm will do to prevent chapped lips.

Eye cream: It can double as a lip cream because the skin is similar in those places.

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