Description

Compact limestone that climbs more on crimps, slopers and pinches than pockets. The rock is steep and tall, but very well protected. The routes here are also mostly 5.11 and 5.12 (lots of 5.12). In the winter this place gets sun through the leafless trees, otherwise it's shaded all year even though it faces West.

Getting There

Take the A9 to the Hormersdorf exit (47) and head to Hormersdorf. Continue driving straight through Hormersdorf and you'll reach Steinensittenbach. Continue through and the next thing you'll see on your right is Obermühle. Park on the grass and by no means at Obermühle, since it is private land. If you miss it you'll drive into the village of Algersdorf. Turn around and try again. From the parking lot, locate the trail into the woods on the opposite side of the road from Obermühle and head up to the crag which is visible through the trees. 3 mins.

Another one of the area classics. Expect that if anybody else is here with you, they're going to want to get on Brennpunkt.Climb a slab to reach a no hands rest. Then climb up to the start of the overhang where you can rest again a little before firing through it. THEN comes the crux. After you get the crux, easy climbing leads to the anchor.The name means "Burning Point"....[more]Browse More Classics in International