1. That would require a rather expensive tapping bit. Which I have, but it cost me $20. Cheaper taps are likely to break in aluminum.2. .100" isn't thick enough to add a thread to and isn't anywhere near as common to obtain.3. That would make the tool list even more exclusive. The plunger core or stock rods could be faced easily with a lathe, but those the only part that would really benefit from the use of one.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

1. If you have it is is worth it.
2. Nuts to hold together, or steps to hold them in. My town does not have .125 polycarb in stores.
3. I had to use the lathe to face all the plunger parts and stock rods, along with making centered holes and bringing down the OD of the 1in rod to fit with O-Rings. Mill to remove areas inside of parts, along with large hoels.

We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.-Nerfer34

Lovely. Black is so sexy, and strangely enough it's also cheaper than clear or white for most of the materials.

1. If you have it is is worth it.2. Nuts to hold together, or steps to hold them in. My town does not have .125 polycarb in stores.3. I had to use the lathe to face all the plunger parts and stock rods, along with making centered holes and bringing down the OD of the 1in rod to fit with O-Rings. Mill to remove areas inside of parts, along with large hoels.

1. If you already have the aluminum, go ahead. If you don't want to have to try cutting a straight piece to make the plunger rod you can buy rectangular bars of plastic or aluminum at the desired thickness and width. I will eventually get around to trying UHMW Polyethylene for making the plunger rods. It should hold a thread well and be durable enough to make the plunger rod, but I want to try it first before recommending it since I KNOW polycarbonate works provided you drill the hole correctly. I will look into seeing if any other options for the plunger rod will make the partlist any cheaper.

2. The ONE hole you have to thread in the side plates lands at the centerline of the plunger tube so there's not really enough space to use a hex nut.

3. I mainly cut those parts using a table saw and I didn't have to face any of them. I did the cuts on one +Bow using a mitre saw and mitre box just to make sure it was possible. For the large diameter holes you need to drill it's best to use flat-blade wood-boring drill bits, which can be used with a mill or a drillpress. Changing the OD of the plunger core doesn't have to be done if you apply a TON of silicone lubricant to the plunger tube. If you do change the OD you better not shave off more than 10 thousands of an inch from the radius or you'll kill the seal.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 24 March 2008 - 01:38 AM.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

Bp, I've used the plusbow in several wars now and I have to make one serious suggestion to you. Put more foam in the handle. The amount you have in that image is not enough. You're gonna beat the fuck out of your hands that way.

I know, I was thinking about it. I've been using it for two weeks (the first week was without any foam at all), and this week I used it for a solid 6 hours, no problems. It may not look comfortable, but the foam is strong and I can't feel the polycarbonate edges when I cock it (I might end up adding more padding to the upper end of the handle, but we'll see after the war we have this weekend). We play every week for about 7 hours or so, so it's been battle tested and works fine. I have been recording ridiculous kills with this thing as well... it's almost unfair.

I meant to post this a while back. Here's the trigger modification I did... feel free to ask questions, I don't have a good picture sadly.

This is a picture of my own along with the other five guns. The long one is mine, the lower one is the green one you see above. Twitch's is the sad looking broken one above mine. And the top three bags contain parts for the final three.

I have a few questions regarding this gun. i was looking at the required tools and unfortunately i do not have many of them. though i do not have this gun yet i want to buy and build one soon. i was wondering if all the cutting could be done with a table saw or several hand held electric saws.

I have a few questions regarding this gun. i was looking at the required tools and unfortunately i do not have many of them. though i do not have this gun yet i want to buy and build one soon. i was wondering if all the cutting could be done with a table saw or several hand held electric saws.

Many of the parts can be cut to size with a table saw, but you cannot do the detailed cutting work with anything other than a scroll saw because many of the pieces are just too small to cut safely without one.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

If you're in the same position as I am, and you only have access to a dremel (and a hacksaw), don't even try it. There are a few attachments that might help, but even then, it's still highly unstable, and cutting out some of the smaller pieces will result in alot of problems; plus, it's very hard to cut the pieces out with a dremel. I've tried cutting pieces out around the sizes of the pieces the +bow requires, and it's extremely difficult due to the lack of stability while using a dremel. Cutting out the pieces required for the catch will probably be extremely difficult, and one slip-up or problem and you might snap some of the dremel attachments you're using, sending pieces flying (happened once to me).

In short, I highly recommend against attempting it if you don't have the tools CS recommends. If you do so, you will be attempting to build it against the recommendations of (probably) a huge chunk of this community, and therefore, we take no responsibility for your actions.

Unfortunately, that basically completely takes me out of the running for making an +bow, so I'll have to work on (now that I know about McMaster thanks to CaptainSlug) a version of the +bow that will only require the use of a hacksaw and a dremel.

so I'll have to work on (now that I know about McMaster thanks to CaptainSlug) a version of the +bow that will only require the use of a hacksaw and a dremel.

I've never even bothered contemplating such a thing because of how much I hate dremels. They're almost utterly useless for machining plastics and in the long run end up costing you more money than a scroll saw.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 26 April 2008 - 08:26 PM.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

Let me also state the importance of using a drill press, especially one with a laser guide. Since I've been using a drillpress, guess what? When I put it together all my holes line up. It helps a lot with drilling the holes through the bottom of the rear frame piece for the handle and the holes drilled in the sides of the catch plate. It's also a lot faster using a drillpress.

And anyone out there who is contemplating on buying a scroll saw to make one, just make sure you practice cutting out templates on a similar material before you ruin your semi-expensive polycarbonate. If you have no experience machining plastics you probably shouldn't attempt making one of these guns.

it's almost unfair.

And now you know the modus operandi of the +bow.

This gun is unfair. CS, are we the only ones with +bow's attending to DCNO? If we are, and we are on the same team...That will be unfair.