Gamay focus, 4 - Julien Sunier Fleurie 2013

Julien Sunier is one of the rising stars of Beaujolais. He makes wines naturally from organically managed vineyards, and this is a brilliant expression of Gamay.

It’s from a single 2.4 hectare vineyards named ‘Niagara’. It’s a steep slope that can only be managed manually (he quips on his excellent website that those who work here are in top physical condition), and the soils are granite. It’s just such a fine, supple, detailed wine. This is why I love Gamay.

Julien Sunier Fleurie 2013 Beaujolais, France
12% alcohol. Aromatic and fine with floral, peppery raspberry fruit with some red cherries, and just a hint of earth. The palate is perfectly poisde: it’s not heavy, but it doesn’t lack concentration, with fine red cherries, pot pourri notes and a fine peppery spiciness, as well as some stony mineral notes. It’s a wine that combines joyful drinkability with complexity and a bit of structure, and given careful storage, I reckon this could develop. 94/100 (UK availability Berry Bros & Rudd and Roberson, £22)