A SouthBound Guide to Diamond Shapes

The French are said to die for love, they delight in fighting duels. But I prefer a man who lives and gives… expensive jewels. So sang Marilyn Monroe, and so I agree (plus, isn’t that a fabulous lyric?) and that’s why year after year, alongside all the pretty dresses and details, I find myself sighing at the sparklers on our brides’ elegant hands. And while I’m a sucker for a classic round solitaire, I love the variety that modern brides have in their choices – different settings, different metals, and for many, non-traditional stones (because diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but I also love hanging with morganite, sapphire, etc.) Another area of choice if you’re on the engagement ring hunt right now is shape (sometimes called cut, but not the cut referred to in the Big 4: Cut, Colour, Clarity, Carat, which is rather the reflective quality of a diamond). There are actually a huge range of diamond shapes or cuts that you can choose. And, while the ones best suited for sparkle are the old classics (round, cushion), the fancy cuts, as they’re called, can make up for it in uniqueness (after all, how many of your friends are rocking a trillion?) We’ve rounded up some of the more popular shapes, along with lots of pretty, pretty rings from Etsy to show them off at a range of price points. (Links in bold denote affiliate links. The cost to you remains the same, but SBB may receive a commission for any sales made.)

ROUND BRILLIANT CUT

The round brilliant cut is by far the most popular, accounting for 75% of all diamonds sold. It’s also the one with the most fire and brilliance (aka sparkliness!) A classic, and for good reason – its 58-facet design reflects light like no other.

CUSHION CUT

The cushion cut is a cross between an oval and a rectangle with rounded corners, producing the pillow shape that gave it its name. They were once the standard (the same way that round cuts are now) and so are sometimes referred to as ‘antique cut’. Much loved for their sparkle!

EMERALD CUT

The emerald cut was originally developed for actual emeralds, and is sometimes called a step cut because it has long, stair-like facets which, together with its open table, produce a hall of mirrors optical effect. It’s rectangular shaped with cut corners, and while it showcases a diamond’s clarity beautifully, inclusions and colour are much more apparent.

OVAL CUT

A beautiful, modern alternative to the classic round shape, oval cut diamonds only started appearing in the 1960s. They have a similar brilliance to the rounds, but their elongated shape is particularly flattering to give the illusion of long, slender fingers.

MARQUISE CUT

Shaped like a rugby ball and said to have been named after the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, the marquise diamond is a modified brilliant cut, usually set with prongs on either end to protect the points from chipping. It’s great for maximising carat weight – i.e. perceived size.

PEAR CUT

If a marquise and an oval diamond met and had lots of little diamond babies, they would be pear cut. Their teardrop shape is a unique look and one which, like the marquise, elongates fingers when the point is worn facing away from the body. Look out for excellent symmetry when purchasing a pear shape – the point should line up with the apex of the round end.

PRINCESS CUT

A square cut with pointed corners, the princess cut is a modern favourite, having first been created in the 1980s. It has a unique colour distribution, and can be cheaper as there’s minimal waste produced when cutting them from a rough diamond.

RADIANT CUT

If you like the shape of a rectangle or square diamond but with the vibrancy of a brilliant, then the radiant cut is your best choice. These diamonds feature emerald cut-style trimmed corners, and combine well with a variety of other shapes.

OTHER SHAPES

Heart shaped: needs no explanation! The heart shape is a universal symbol of love, making this modified brilliant particularly romantic – however, it’s much harder to see the heart shape in a smaller diamond, so bear this in mind when making your selection.

Trillion: Triangular shaped diamonds, more commonly used as accents, but which make a striking solitaire. They do need extra care and cleaning, however.

Asscher: Currently popular with celebrities, the Asscher cut is similar to the emerald cut, with cropped corners and stepped sides, but is a square shape instead of a rectangle.

And just because we love you, we’ve made you a pinnable graphic to keep all this info handy when you go shopping!