These are for newly hand assembled 6 FET Infineon programmable brushless controllers I am selling. They are new and never used. It is originally designed for brushless motors with damaged hall sensors. You can now revive any damaged hall sensor motors and put your ebike back on the road.

The way it works is controller has a unique sensorless module to convert pulses to voltage and feed the appropriate emulated signal to the MCU (Motor Control Unit).

There are other reasons for utilize the controller below:1. You want to make more space in the motor axle for for thicker phase wires2. You hate hall wires3. You have a RC motor (Turnigy & Astro in this case)4. You want to try something different5. You think sensorless is cool6. You are unable to figure out how to wire the sensor wires to the controller with the correct sequence7. You want to have a backup controller just in case8. You think sensorless is more reliable since no hall sensors and/or wires can get damaged easily by heat & water

The controller is hacker ready. It was originally a special request item from a member. But word of mouths are making it becomes more popular so I had to make a few extra to meet the demand.

There are lots of potential and features you can unveil and twist as you go. You can program functions such as enable power regeneration, regenerate braking, pulse width modulation, low voltage cut-off, interface with a Cycle Analyst, and others. You may also add an USB to TTL programming adapter and connect to the computer for tuning. (Electronics knowledge is required to unleash the potential however)

One unique feature on this controller is that it has an additional speed sensor circuitry built-in with an extra wire embedded for output. It is to be used with the scooter style electric bike and electric scooters that have a speedometer in the dashboard.

If you look carefully in the photos, you will notice this version also uses lock washers to secure the MOSFETs internally and the heat transfer bar outside to place tension against a nut after tightening. It is also to help prevent the nut from loosening. The MOSFETs will get overheated and damaged when detached from the heat-sink which used to be the case from the previous designs.

* For hackers, you may double and possibly triple the current output to make it a mighty wonder by adding braids wires (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062744),add solders to beef up the circuit board traces and shunt. It may also be needed to upgrade to larger capacitors, gauge wires for both the battery and the phase wires to the motor.

Best motors to use:200-500w geared motorsE-BikeKit 6x10 motor due to high torque & low current

Below is the specification:Model: EC-064110SL-LYEN EDITIONStart immediate controllerChipset: XCKJ8B116A (same chipset being used as in the 18 FET controller)Circuit board version: EB206-C-36 x genuine IRFB 4110 MOSFET N-CH 100V (tested up to 110V before damage) for more information about the FET, click the link below:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRFB4110PBF-ND36-60V battery optimized (for higher or lower voltage & current such as 24V, 60-100V, you may need to change the resistor network to avoid damage to the LM317 linear voltage regulator)20A is the current rate at 72v or 25A at 48v (for higher current, you may need to beef up/reinforce the trace, shunt, and reprogram it via the software)Low voltage cut-off: 29VBattery and motor phase wires gauge size: 12AWG (High voltage capable wires equipped)Dimension: 115mm x 67mm x 35mm plus mount extensions

I have only 50 made since I am busy working on my other ebike projects. My intention for selling at such low price is to share the fun with other ES forum members instead of making them jealous. I finally understand why Methods mentioned the cost of labor is steep after all this and I have to agree with him from now on. These controllers are not generic controllers. I have every single one serialized. Quantity is limited, buy it now and upgrade later once your piggy bank is filled up if needed.

$89 USD free ground shipping in the United States & Canada. For other locations, please PM or email me at LYEN@HOTMAIL.COM. I accept PayPal, cash or money order. The controllers will be shipped out from me in San Francisco, California, USA. I will provide a tracking number and ship it out as soon as I have received the fund.

For only $10 more, I can include the the following:1. CA connector2. Regenerative enable/disable (Enabled simply by connect the wires together without the need to open the case)3. USB-TTL 5 pin connector (for use with the USB-TTL adapter that is sold separate)

I also have the USB-TTL adapter for adjust and alter the controller settings on your computer. It has the extra 5 pin plug and a "SEND" button. It is also compatible with Windows XP/Vista/7 32/64 bit operating system (real 32/64bit drivers). $15 with purchase, $20 if purchase separately.

If you are not satisfy with the results or if it is too fast for you, you may send it back to me within 30 days in an unmodified condition.

Update: March 21st, 2015 > I can adjust the controller for 24V, 33V, 36V, 48V, 60V, 66V, 72V, 84V, and other battery settings upon request.

Quantity updated as of 3/25/2013: 49 left (buyer bought 1 from Upplands Väsby, Sweden )Quantity updated as of 3/25/2013: 48 left (buyer bought 1 from San Diego , CA )Quantity updated as of 3/28/2013: 47 left (buyer bought 1 from Tyngsboro, MA )Quantity updated as of 4/4/2013: 46 left (buyer bought 1 from Lihue, HI)Quantity updated as of 4/4/2013: 45 left (buyer bought 1 from Zwingenberg, Baden-Württemberg, Germany )Quantity updated as of 4/13/2013: 44 left (buyer bought 1 from san diego, CA)Quantity updated as of 4/14/2013: 43 left (buyer bought 1 from Los Angeles, CA)Quantity updated as of 4/30/2013: 41 left (buyer bought 2 from Grosseto, Italy)Quantity updated as of 5/9/2013: 38 left (buyer bought 3 from Zwingenberg, Germany )Quantity updated as of 5/15/2013: 37 left (buyer bought 1 from Grenoble, France )Quantity updated as of 5/16/2013: 36 left (buyer bought 1 from Bend, OR )Quantity updated as of 6/11/2013: 35 left (buyer bought 1 from London, United Kingdom )Quantity updated as of 6/12/2013: 34 left (buyer bought 1 from Lemignano di collecchio, PR, Italy )Quantity updated as of 7/19/2013: 32 left (buyer bought 2 from Cucciago, Como, Italy )Quantity updated as of 8/6/2013: 31 left (buyer bought 1 from Riviera Beach, FL )Quantity updated as of 8/12/2013: 30 left (buyer bought 1 from Ashfield, NSW, AUSTRALIA )Quantity updated as of 8/18/2013: 29 left (buyer bought 1 from SANTA FE, NM )Quantity updated as of 8/26/2013: 24 left (buyer bought 5 from Westerngrund, Germany )Quantity updated as of 10/5/2013: 23 left (buyer bought 1 from Corona, CA, United States )Quantity updated as of 10/17/2013: 22 left (buyer bought 1 from Oxford, MS, United States )Quantity updated as of 10/19/2013: 21 left (buyer bought 1 from Capalle Di, Campi Bisenzio, Italy )Quantity updated as of 10/30/2013: 20 left (buyer bought 1 from Brie, France )Quantity updated as of 1/14/2014: 19 left (buyer bought 1 from Morgan Hill, CA, United States )Quantity updated as of 2/9/2014: 18 left (buyer bought 1 from Ivanhoe, Victoria, Australia )Quantity updated as of 4/5/2014: 17 left (buyer bought 1 from San Clemente, CA, United Sates )Quantity updated as of 4/23/2014: 15 left (buyer bought 2 from Palm City, FL, United States )Quantity updated as of 5/8/2014: 13 left (buyer bought 2 from Heddesheim, Germany )Quantity updated as of 5/27/2014: 12 left (buyer bought 1 from Ocoee, FL, United States )Quantity updated as of 5/30/2014: 11 left (buyer bought 1 from Silkeborg, Denmark )Quantity updated as of 7/3/2014: 10 left (buyer bought 1 from Salt Lake City, UT, United States )Quantity updated as of 9/21/2014: 9 left (buyer bought 1 from Milton, QLD, Australia)Quantity updated as of 2/4/2014: 7 left (buyer bought 2 from Zola Predosa, BO, Italy )Quantity updated as of 2/10/2015: 6 left (buyer bought 1 from Silkeborg, Denmark )Quantity updated as of 2/22/2015: 5 left (buyer bought 1 from Lowell, MA, United States )Quantity updated as of 2/26/2015: 3 left (buyer bought 2 from Slovenska Bistrica, SLOVENIA, Slovenia)

It works on both 60 and 120 degree angle hall sensors motors such as the 9C, Crystalyte 40x series, 5 series, Turnigy (at up to 2200rpm only), Astro (at up to 2200rpm only).

Attached are the pictures of the controller. Please allow time for the images to load.

Would this support the 55,000+ electrical rpms needed by the BMC V3? It would be nice to run the V3 sensorless and fit larger phase wires through the axle, but RPMs are an issue on geared motors, not to mention that the V3 seems to give digital controllers fits. If you think it will work though I might give it a shot.

Would this support the 55,000+ electrical rpms needed by the BMC V3? It would be nice to run the V3 sensorless and fit larger phase wires through the axle, but RPMs are an issue on geared motors, not to mention that the V3 seems to give digital controllers fits. If you think it will work though I might give it a shot.

Hey JD just an FYI =I tried my Lyen sensorless with my BMC V3(works fine with my Lyen sensored) and could not get it to work at all.I tried all phase combos and got nothing but stuttering off the line and then it just quits.I would love to be able to run my BMCs sensorless so I can beef up the phase wires.Let us know if you have any better luck.

jbond wrote:How do the IRFB 4110 FETs compare with IRFB3077? (as recommended by Jeremy for modding these 6Fet controllers)

What would be the maximum reasonable current settings on 36v nominal?

The 4110's have a greater on resistance, Rdson (3.7 to 4.5 mohm) than the 3077s (2.8 to 3.3 mohm), so will run ~25% hotter and have ~25% higher losses at the same current. If you don't need the 80 to 90V operating capability offered by 100V FETs like the 4110s, then I'd suggest using lower voltage ones, as this will reduce the losses significantly. The 3077's are 75V rated so OK for operation to around 65V. If you want to run at low voltage, say below 35V, then IRLB3034s are even better (Rdson is 1.4 to 1.7mohms).

The 4110 and 3077 FETs have the same package current limit of 120A, the 3034s have a higher package current limit of 195A.

The principle here is that using FETs with a voltage rating that is much greater than you need results in greater losses and more heat for a given current.

Jeremy

Please ask questions on the forum, rather than by PM, as it helps others and you'll get a better range of answers.

This is my first post on the site, and i am blown away by the knowledge base and skills! Starting my first ever conversion of a yamaha QT50, going to be attaching a out-runner directly to the drive shaft with a gear reduction built into the bevel drive of 57:10http://www.hobbyking.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/ ... &aff=54444just getting all the bits together and come to some technical difficulties re the RC route, and the lack of sensors, would your controller be the answer? many other users describe controllers being destroyed and servo's not working. Was planning, on either a 36V or 48V system which ever comes easiest, and fairly modest speed and distance requirements. Also im in New Zealand, and was wondering if you do international delivery! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is my first post on the site, and i am blown away by the knowledge base and skills! Starting my first ever conversion of a yamaha QT50, going to be attaching a out-runner directly to the drive shaft with a gear reduction built into the bevel drive of 57:10http://www.hobbyking.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/ ... &aff=54444just getting all the bits together and come to some technical difficulties re the RC route, and the lack of sensors, would your controller be the answer? many other users describe controllers being destroyed and servo's not working. Was planning, on either a 36V or 48V system which ever comes easiest, and fairly modest speed and distance requirements. Also im in New Zealand, and was wondering if you do international delivery! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have had 3 or 4 hub motor bikes in the past, all were underpowered for the mountain I live on. I am thinking about a 72V setup using Prius NiMH batts I got my hands on, and an HS3540 or HT. I really want regen (it helped with braking a LOT with the BionX kit I had) but I am hoping for at least 50 amps continuous, if not 60. 100A peak... any chance I could pay extra to have one of these controllers modified to meet this requirement? I want a sensorless motor for robustness over time.

Package arrived this week.Hooked up on my trekking-bike, works flawless.Stays really cool in the cargo-bag, about 40 Celsius, with very strange hillclimbing and of course a lot of pedalling ( motor is a geared hubmotor in the rear, similar to bafang ).Need to amp a little bit down to meet the legal limit and to save the gears from loosing teeth .Didn´t connect the halls, of course not, so braking the bike and giving throttle makes a bit of strange noise, I thinkthats from not to be able to sense the turning direction.Starting up from a dead stop is no problem at all, works great.