Category: Free Patterns

Below is a free pattern for my new Crochet Bandeau Tutorial. There is also a full video on how to create it as well.

Go leave me a like and a comment over on YouTube 😉

Materials:

2 skeins of weight 3 in main color (I used white)

1 skein/scrap amount of weight 3 in secondary color (I used black)

4 mm / G crochet Hook

How To:

Make 2

Make a chain in your main color that is the height of your bust area. I did 25 chains
Row 1 – in 2nd chain from hook, half double crochet across. chain 1, turn.
Row 2-7 – HDC across, chain 1, turn
Rows 8-9 – switch to second color and single crochet across, chaining 1 at the end and turning

Repeat the process of 7 rows of HDC in your main color and 2 rows of SC in your secondary color two more times (XS) or how ever many times it takes to reach half of your bust measurement minus 3″. Your piece should reach this stretched! I did 3 rounds of the striping with three additional rows of HDC in my main color to reach 12″ stretched.

Continue with whichever color is next for you. In my case (XS) I will be continuing with my main color (white).

Decreasing:

1 – HDC first two stitches together, HDC across, HDC last two together.
Repeat Row 1 until there are 8 stitches left.

*note* remember to follow the 7 rows in HDC of main color and 2 rows of SC in secondary color throughout this design!
Once you hit the 8 stitches left, continue the striping pattern until the 8 stitches reach 11″. This will be one of your straps to tie in the front!

Once you reached 11″ in length and continuing in the striping pattern, HDC first two stitches together, HDC across and HDC the last two stitches together. Turn and repeat until 2 stitches remain.

BO.

Once the two front pieces are done, put right sides together and using your secondary color, SC the two pieces together at the center back.

Using the main color, SC around entire piece to make the edges look more finished.

Try bandeau on and mark spots above each breast where your straps should go. They will probably line up with the center of each breast. I ended up putting the front straps right at the last rows before decreasing in the front.

At this point, SC 5 stitches, Chain 1, turn and continue single crocheting in main color for 38 rows and attach the strap to the back at the first row where you started your second color.

With your main color yarn still attached, chain two and turn your work so you can crochet towards the outer part of the garment (see images). This is going to be the ruffle that is on your shoulder!

To make the ruffles, DC 2 in each row of the strap until you reach the front of the bandeau. Each row you crocheted for the strap should have two DC’s crocheted into it.

Now, Chain 2 and DC 1 in each stitch across. You can bind off at the end or you can chain 2 again and repeat to make the ruffle as long as you want. I did 3 rows of DC on top of initial DC 2 in each stitch.

R1 – turn, skip first two stitches and DC in third CH from hook. DC across (50)

R2 – Ch 2, turn, DC across starting in the second stitch from piece as to not increase (50)

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 13 rows

Note: This the how high you want the shorts to sit on your body. The 13 rows for me sits at my “true” waist, which is above your belly button. If you want it to be low rise/mid rise etc, decrease the amount of rows you do!

R14 – Ch 2, DC in FIRST stitch (the one we’ve previously been skipping), DC across, DC2 in last stitch.

R15 – Ch 2, repeat Row 1 for a total of 10 rows of increases

R24 – fold piece in half and mark center stitch on increased part (leg). Count out 10 from each side and mark with a removable stitch marker (20 stitches total). Going back to the non-increasing method, Ch2, DC to first marker, SS to last marker. DC to end (again, only 1 DC in last stitch).

R25 – Ch2, DC to 2 stitches before the first SS, SS to two after end of first SS row, DC to end

R26 – Repeat Row 25 once more

BO

Ruffle:

R1 – Starting at farthest SS on bottom hem, start DC’ing 2 in each stitch (I had 58 total DC’s)

R2 – CH2, skip first stitch on piece, DC across (58)

BO

2nd Ruffle – Going 1-2 rows above first ruffle and 4 DC’s in from first ruffle, Start the same ruffle process as stated above. DC’ing 2 in each stitch and then DC’ing 1 in each stitch of the second row.

3rd Ruffle – Repeat same steps for second ruffle, but go above the second ruffle to complete the third.

Make 1 more short/ruffle combo!

Seaming:

1. With right sides together, sew or SC the leg seams together.
2. With right sides together, put one side inside of the other (one piece will be outside right and that will go inside of the wrong side out piece)
3. Sew or SC the “U” together. Leave a bit open at one end so you can get into the piece (or struggle like I did haha)
4. Make a chain long enough and weave it through the first row at your waist so you can adjust the fit.

Row 3: hdc in first stitch (counts as an increase because of initial ch2 and turn) across to last ch. Hdc 2 in last ch. Ch 2, turn

Row 4-10 (4-12, 4-14): RPT row 3. (18 ch total for small)

Row 11 (13, 15): mark opposite end of row with a removable stitch marker. Hdc in second stitch (not what your ch 2 is connected to but the next stitch) and hdc across until last stitch. Hdc 2 in last stitch. Ch 2, turn.

Treble Crochet (yarn over twice, go through chain, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through last two)

SIZES

I wear a size 8.5-9 women’s US and these were a ~bit~ loose on me. (I’m thinking they would’ve been more snug if I was also wearing thick fuzzy socks!)

You can start with any number of chains as long as it fits across the widest part of your foot.

For length, you will do as many rows to fit the length of your foot. (I did 14 rows)

INSTRUCTIONS

SOLE

First make a slip knot and chain 8 (or as many needed to cover the width of your foot)

Row 1: 1 sc in the second chain from the hook. *1 dc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in the second stitch in (on top of the dc). The chain three counts as the first dc. *sc in the next stitch and then dc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in the first stitch (on top of the last dc you did in the last round). *dc in the next stitch, sc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * till the end.

REPEAT ROWS 2 AND 3 UNTIL YOU REACH YOUR DESIRED LENGTH

***QUICK TIP***

An easy way to remember how to work this pattern is that if your first stitch when you turn is a dc then you should have chained one and do a sc in that first stitch. If your SECOND stitch is a dc then you would have chained 3 and then skipped the first stitch (single crochet) and have single crocheted on top of the double crochet.

Leave any comments below or on the video if you get stuck and need help!

SIDES OF SHOE

Once your shoe is of the desired length, you will chain 3 and turn your work so that you are working down the length of the sole.

Row 1: You will dc around the perimeter of the sole and slip stitch to the first dc. Chain 3.

Row 2: Start dc’ing from the second stitch all the way around until the last 5 stitches. In the last 5 stitches you will sc and chain 2 (counts as first dc of next row)

TOP OF SHOE

Row 1: In the second chain dc across to the end. Chain 2 & turn.

Repeat row 1 until the top piece is long enough to cover the top of your foot so that your foot does not fall out of the shoe when wearing it. (I did 4 rows)

ATTATCHING TOP TO THE SHOE

To attach the top to the rest of the shoe you will chain one and line up the edges of the top to the edges of the sides of the shoe. Now you’re going to sc along these two edges, seaming them shut as if you were joining two pieces in a side seam or a hat. You will work this starting from the left side, around the front and up the right side of the top of the shoe. There is a good visual of this in the video! Once you reached the beginning, chain 3.

TOP FLAP OF SHOE

After chaining three we will now be creating 4 more treble crochets across those 5 stitches to create the top of the shoe. You will skip the first stitch and place a treble crochet in the second.

At the end, bind off and tuck yarn.

FINISHING

Fold over the treble crochet flap and thread some yarn through the underside so each loose end of the yarn is coming out of the top. Tie in a bow and you’re done! There is a good visual of this in the video too!

Don’t forget to make 2!

I hope you all enjoyed and if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment here or on the video for this pattern!

Row 3: Skip 1st SC and DC into the second SC *CH2, skip stitch, DC in next stitch* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Ch1, turn

Rows 4-6: SC across, CH 1, turn.

Row 7: Fold work in half and mark the center stitch with a marker. SC across until you reach the stitch right before the marker. CH 1, turn.

Row 8: Mark cup size number of stitches out from where you are on your work. SC to the marker, crocheting into the marker point this time, CH 1, turn.

Row 9: SC to midpoint, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Place a marker 7 stitches in on both sides of your cup size in stitches. SC 6, SC 2 in the marker, SC to next marker, SC 2 in that marker, SC to the end, CH 1, turn. *REMEMBER TO PLACE MARKER BACK INTO THE SPOT WHERE YOU SC 2*!!