Hands-On The Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Now With White And Black Dials

Regular readers will know by now that I'm a total sucker for a simple watch done well. So it will come as no surprise that I love the latest crop of Oyster Perpetuals from Rolex. For 2018, Rolex has taken its full range of OPs and added two new dial options to the mix: a slightly warm and glossy white and a subtle sunburst black. Both are really successful, and make one of Rolex's least-talked-about but most outstanding watch collections even more appealing from top to bottom.

The Oyster Perpetual is Rolex's most basic watch and for many it's an entry point into the storied brand. The Oyster Perpetual comes in five different sizes – 26mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 39mm – and each size has its own set of dials from which you can choose. In all cases, the watches have just three hands – hours, minutes, and center seconds – Twinlock screw-down crowns, Oyster bracelets with Oysterclasp fasteners, and Chromalight for lume. That is to say, they're real Rolex watches through and through and shouldn't be viewed as a compromise or a lesser watch when compared to other models across other collections.

ADVERTISEMENT

Up until now, most of the sizes have had warm silver dials as the most basic option, with colors like Red Grape, White Grape, and Blue providing bolder alternatives. But there haven't actually been any truly basic colors. With its latest round of releases, Rolex has fixed this, adding both black and white options to all five sizes. I saw them briefly at Baselworld, despite Rolex not presenting them to press, but didn't have the chance to spend any quality time with them or to get any photographs. Luckily I was able to get my hands on a white Oyster Perpetual 39 and a black Oyster Perpetual 34 this week in New York – and I think I found my new favorite modern Rolex.

Let's start with the Oyster Perpetual 34. Black is inarguably the classic color for a Rolex dial and it's great to see it come to the OP. Traditionally though, black Rolex dials have either been glossy, with a smooth, even sheen, or matte, with a soft, subtle texture to them. This black, though, is a little different, with a semi-matte finish and a subdued sun ray pattern. If it really catches the light, you almost see hints of grey, though in most situations it reads as a true black. I enjoyed this extra little bit of depth, and think it's a nice departure from the black we're used to seeing in the true sports models.

As a quick aside, I've also got to say I really dig the 34mm Oyster Perpetual on the wrist. It's a killer size, wearing very similarly to a vintage 36mm Rolex like a Datejust or an Explorer. If those are watches that you like, but you want something modern and bulletproof, check out the OP 34 and it might surprise you.

ADVERTISEMENT

As far as the white Oyster Perpetual 39 goes, all I can really say is "wow." If you've checked out any of the earlier Oyster Perpetual 39 models, you'll already know that the size and shape of this watch make it a near perfect daily wearer, and all of that is still true here. What you get with the white dial is something just a little special though – white dial Rolex watches are fairly rare and the effect here is something that at once feels very Rolex, and nods towards the unusual. I'm almost certain this is my new favorite watch in the current Rolex collection, and if I had to pare my collection back to just one watch, this might very well be the one.

The shade of white is soft and ever-so-slightly tinted toward eggshell instead of being a bright optic white. This makes it a lot more subtle on the wrist and gives it a more organic feel. You wouldn't call it anything other than "white" but it doesn't look like it's glowing either. If you compare it side-by-side with something like an Explorer II, for example, that's when you'll really notice the difference.

Neither of these watches is revolutionary, but would you really want them to be? What Rolex does best is slow, careful iteration, and changes not for their own sake, but only for the sake of improvement. The black dial option brings a classic Rolex staple to the Oyster Perpetual family, albeit with its own personality, and the white dial option brings something fresh to the table that allows for a completely different look that works in just about any setting.

The Oyster Perpetual 34 is priced at $5,050 and the Oyster Perpetual 39 is priced at $5,700, with all dial colors priced the same. To learn more or to configure your own Oyster Perpetual, visit Rolex online.