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Sunday, March 15, 2009

The Review: retro inspired jacket - Simplicity 2701

As promised, here's the complete review for the retro inspired jacket sewing using Simplicity 2701.

The pattern:The basic jacket is princess seamed front with one or two button closure, round or v-neckline, with or without collar, welt or pleated pocket, short pleated sleeve or 3/4 sleeve with or without notch.

Tip on yardage: If you're purchasing fabric you'll want to know which elements you want on your jacket before you begin as yardage for each piece is given separately. For example the jacket body requires 1-3/4 yard and the short sleeves require 1/2 yard so you will need to purchase 2-1/4 yards. But wait a minute! If you want a collar you won't want to forget additional fabric for that! See? It's just a bit confusing so choose the elements before the fabric.

Or do what I did. I choose my fabric, then choose the jacket I wanted to make, and then used as many of the elements as I could. All I had to leave off was the notched band on the end of the 3/4 sleeve.

The instructions: Like the other Runway Inspired patterns, the first sheet of the instructions is a "Sketch & Stitch" sheet. It includes a croquis that allows you to mix-and-match the elements of this jacket to create the exact look you want. The instructions are very thorough and written in much the same way. As you sew each piece - whether it be the front, the collar, the pocket or the sleeve - each option is given. That means you do need to jump a bit through the instructions which some of you may not like, but I didn't find it a problem at all.

Fabric:Without doing a burn test, I can't tell you exactly what the fabric is. But I can tell you the story behind the fabric!

I purchased the fabric in the early 1990s from a friend's sister. She was moving and needed to sell her fabric stash. He knew I sewed and told me about her need to sell her fabrics. She had tons of gorgeous fabrics that were much more expensive than anything I had ever purchased before. However, I didn't want to hurt his feelings (ha! how silly was that!) and proceed to purchase a few pieces of beautiful imported wools as well as this cream colored piece. If I remember correctly, I was told this piece was from Ireland. While I have no idea what the content is, I can tell you it was perfect for this jacket.

It has a slight nubby texture, and a wonderful hand and drape. I paid so much for it that I never wanted to cut into it. Which is absolutely ridiculous to have let a great piece of fabric sit unused for almost 20 years.

Interfacing:Palmer and Pletsch Perfect Fuse Medium. Fabulous interfacing! Not much more I can say about that...

Buttons:One inch shell buttons from JoAnn Fabrics.

Jacket details: Princess seams with an inside pockets behind the welts sewn into the front seams.

A button and loop front closure. The jacket is designed for a 1-1/4" button. I had difficulty locating one I liked in that size so the loop is just a tad too large. I'd suggest choosing your button before you finish sewing the loop.

Optional rounded collar sewn to the v-shaped neckline.

The jacket is designed for 1/4" shoulder pads.

The back is pleated with a decorative tab and button, which are off center. The pleat gives a slight swing shape to the jacket and helps give that retro inspired look.

The jacket is unlined. While the instructions tell you to encase the seams, they don't tell you how. I used a matching lining for the hong kong finish on the seams.

Conclusion:Buy. This. Pattern. You won't be disappointed.

And watch for my next version sewn from an interesting burgundy metallic linen from Emma One Sock.

I just bought this pattern a couple of weeks ago and am glad to see how great it turns out. Also, I'm sick with a cold this evening and bored, so I ended up on your blog and have been delightfully relieved of my boredom by going through your "flashbacks." How fun to see your life in sewing!