Old Thousand

The Chinese food here does not hew to a specific style.

If you want to signify that you are cool, you can blast Tribe Called Quest and throw up one piece of art that pays homage to Notorious B.I.G. and another that clowns Donald Trump. But if your restaurant is going to advertise that it serves “dope Chinese,” the food has to be as strong as the aesthetic and vibe. It is at this restaurant that opened at the end of 2016. Alumni of the Uchi group of restaurants, co-executive chefs James Dumapit and David Baek nod slightly to their respective Filipino and Korean heritages while cooking thoughtful versions of what Dumapit calls “the original cuisine.”

The Chinese food here does not hew to a specific style — you’ll find Szechuan fried chicken, Cantonese char siu and a fragrant soy-braised chicken congee that honors Dumapit’s Filipino grandmother. You’ll also see plenty of Texas influence, from the grapefruit that brightens citrus beef to the honey and candied pecans of a fried shrimp dish. There’s even brisket (from Micklethwait Craft Meats) in one the versions of fried rice that also has pungent Chinese sausage.