You would prefer a chain drive over the stock belt. Conversion is easy and you can keep the same rear ratio while converting to a traditional and timeless 530 rear drive chain setup on all Sportsters 883 and 1200 from 1991 to year 2003.

These sprockets work perfectly with your stock rear wheel. Kyle at Lowbrow tested this belt-to-chain conversion on his 2003 1200 Sportster this summer, riding cross-country and putting over 8,000 miles on it trouble-free. MSRP $159.95. At LowBrow Customs or call toll free 1-855-4LOWBROW

troll…If someone wants to change gearing this would be an option. The above article says ” Conversion is easy and you can keep the same rear ratio”. I guess that struck me as being unnecessary if you already have a belt that runs quiter. requires no lubrication and consequently won’t toss dirty lube stuff all over the back of the bike; and lasts for a long, long time. I can attest to that fact personally….my last Electra Glide had 97.500 miles on it when I sold it. The guy who bought it from me ran it up to 111.00 and then he sold it. It still had the original belt and pulleys at that time.

“WHY?”
From a customizer’s perspective a noisy, greasy chain allows a lot more freedom than a belt. Because of it’s narrow width ad the relative ease with which you can change the length of a chain you can :
1. Extend (or shorten) the swingarm.
2. Run a wider tire/rim.
3. Run a jackshaft.

and of course a chain gives the bike a more “classic” look then a belt.
Personally I do prefer a belt but have had to convert to chain when I wanted to customize bikes.

There is a certain “order” to the world.
In motorcycling that order includes drive chains.

Can’t say i’ve ever see a “Belt” on a F1 bike or an XR 750 ……… ???
Which super bikes come with a Belt….???
Any dirt bikes come with belts…..???

Sure, we-all recognize that there will always be “end- users” who don’t know how (or don’t care ) to maintain their motorcycles. Very basic stuff.
So ya, they”ll need Belts.
But, let’s face it, not wanting to deal with a drive chain is like not wanting to deal with wiping your ass….. 🙂

Now, those of us who are too “Refined” to run chains, we opt for Drive-shafts………. 🙂 🙂

For the torque and trip-speed range of the application here (viz the HD “baby”-twin) both a chain and belt is comfortably suitable. Both the chain and the belt have their respective pro-s and con-s – it is down to individual preference all said and done.

If you are happy with the belt keep it – it is perfect for the job. Chain technology has advanced tremendously – self-lube chains, etc, etc.

I would consider it for something different, eg a ‘cafe racer’ styled bike may look a bit more ‘authentic’ with chain. A ‘Brooklyn Bobber’ may look groovy with a final chain (perhaps without a cover) on one side and (eg) a Stealth Belt Drive at the other end, or for the brave- and talented, make your own open primary chain drive (Cycle Tech has all the components) and so on.

Shaw HD does some of the coolest work on Sportsters (around) – they like final chain drives…

Guys also if you want to hard-tail a bike, try finding a belt to work with the frame stretch! When you stretch a frame 4″ there are no belts out there and having one made would be pricey. A 130 link chain on the other hand….

Kyle hit the nail on the head. It seems that many people here can’t see past the nose on their face.

If you’re not familiar with LowBrow….which with much of the crowd response here doesn’t surprise me…they cater to the “do it your-self-ers”.

Sportsters have blown up in this segment the past 5 years, and I’m not referring to the Nightster, Iron, or ’48 rubber mount ’04 and up. H.O.G. owners bolt on MoCo accessory crowd. That’s why L/B listed the ’91-’03 circa.

Great job LowBrow, I Need to get one of these kits myself. Been putting it off for a couple years now.