Doritos Locos Taco Review

Company description: A crunchy taco made with premium seasoned beef, crisp lettuce and real cheddar cheese, in a shell made from Nacho Cheese Doritos Chips.

Nutrition: 170 calories, 9 grams fat, 13 grams carbs.

Location: The Gallery at Market East, 901 Market St.

Order time: 90 seconds.

Price: $1.29.

Review: Given the awesomeness of the products involved, it’s hard to overstate how high expectations were for the Doritos Locos Taco. And it certainly looks good — disturbingly so — with a shell slightly more orange than John Boehner’s face. But a good taco, like a good sandwich, is greater than the sum of its parts. And by that measure, the DLT is a pretty big disappointment. The shell, somewhat surprisingly, is the main culprit, since it neither retains much of the distinct Doritos taste and crunch nor enhances the flavor of the main ingredients.

Summary: Scores as a novelty item, misses as a taco.

Every other Thursday, the Chain Gang reviews the latest chain-restaurant dishes.