In the main square, dominated by a statue of the Albanian national hero, Skanderbeg, US and Albanian flags fly together.

A few hundred metres away, the old mausoleum of the former Communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, is now draped in US flags and a huge portrait of Mr Bush hangs above the entrance.

"There is real enthusiasm here, not just from the government but from the people. We hope this visit will help Albania on the path to Euro-Atlantic integration," says Grid Rroji, director of information for the Albanian Government.

It is said here that in 2003, while there were protests in other European capitals against the war in Iraq, Tirana was the only capital where demonstrations were actually held in favour of the war.

Crucial sign

Albania's enthusiasm for the war on terror is not only reflected in its willingness to send troops to both Iraq and Afghanistan, but also in the fact that it has agreed to accept former prisoners from Guantanamo who cannot return to their own countries.

This is the type of practical help and support that Mr Bush appreciates.

The country sees the visit of the US president as a "Thank you" for its support but also as a crucial sign that the US cares about Albania's slow road on the path to democracy which some still see as a fragile one.

But there is also another key issue looking over this part of the world - that of neighbouring Kosovo.

Its majority Albanian population are getting increasingly frustrated that they have not been given the independence from Serbia they have been demanding since 1999.

The US has stated its support for independence despite the objections of Serbia and Russia.

Albanian leaders will continue to emphasise the need for the US to push through independence despite those objections.