Allowing easy access to the miracle, the beauty, the sheer magic of creation, this drive will take you along part of the northern fringe of the cool temperate rainforests of The Tarkine in Tasmania’s north west. Dramatic views over the Arthur River, surrounding forests and across the Tarkine, from buttongrass plains to towering eucalypt forests, this area truly embraces the sheer magnificence of a part of The Tarkine landscape. The beautiful colours of fungi, the rich vibrancy of mosses and lichen, the amazing shades of green of our native ferns all grow here in abundance amongst ancient trees both native or endemic to Tasmania, such as eucalypt, myrtle, blackwood and sassafras… it all combines and creates a sense of awe and wonder at how Gondwana truly looked. A 130 kilometre loop drive south of Smithton, the South Arthur Forest contains a group of Forest Reserves, each one so different, but all combined showing off the true diversity of this region. To get there, from Smithton take the signposted road ‘South Arthur Forest Drive’, which will take you out of Smithton and through Edith Creek (last stop for fuel here!) and eventually you will reach Kanunnah Bridge, this is the starting point of the South Arthur Forest Drive.

The word ‘Kanunnah’ is the aboriginal word for the Tasmanian Tiger, and here at Kanunnah Bridge you can watch the rapids of the Arthur River where it flows through beautiful tall blackwood forests; these blackwoods reputed to be the largest, tallest and straightest in the world. A place to ‘kayak’ the rapids, spend time relaxing or trout fishing, barbecues are provided to cook your catch.

Where the grey goshawk glides, the Sumac Lookout is a window to The Tarkine, breath-taking views over the Arthur River and the old growth forests which surround it. Here you can stand and survey the forests, like a thick lush carpet of varying shades of green, you will see how the forests before you fight for dominance in the landscape. The tallest trees in the far distance to the right are giant eucalypts, they indicate the path of a raging fire in a time of the distant past, the eucalypt forests are so well adapted to fire that they now require it for their continued survival in this environment. The dark green areas bordering along the river are cool temperate rainforest, mostly of myrtles (the darkest green tree tops) and sassafras (bright green conical shaped tree tops) where fire has not been for hundreds of years. Over time, the rainforest will gradually spread and again take dominance over the eucalypt forest, unless the enemy of the rainforest comes again, another bushfire rages, halts the process and then allows the eucalypts to reign again. In amongst both these forests however lies a true survivor, the blackwood (olive green tree tops), which can adapt to both environments. Though the blackwood prefers the river environment of the rainforest, they also compete for dominance in the eucalypt forests by trying to take over disturbed sites where trees have fallen over, where ground has been flooded or where small spot fires have burnt out an area. Even in our forests, the strongest and most dominant will survive, and after a bushfire it will take on average of 400-500 years for the cool temperate rainforest of The Tarkine to recover.

The perfect stopping point for barbecue or picnic, Julius River Forest Reserve has facilities including toilets, picnic shelters and wood barbecues and with disabled access makes it the ideal stop for all. Two magical forest walks, one a 30 minute walk through ancient rainforest, where the sounds of the Julius River meandering through delight the senses, the other an hour long walk to view many sinkholes in the region. In summer the sweet aroma of flowering leatherwoods fills the air, while in winter here lies the magic of fungi, lichen and mosses, one truly feels as though you are back in Gondwanaland as you stand beneath the ancient myrtles in the Julius River Forest, with tree ferns (Dickensonia) growing lush and green at 2 metres and higher. The rich deep green of the Hard Water Fern (Blechnum wattsii) plentiful on the forest floor, rattling softly as you wander through, hence it’s ‘common’ name, the rattling fern. Soft and sponge like, a yellow/green carpet of moss grows in abundance, creeping over the rich substrate on the forest floor and up and over the trees, both standing and fallen. Across the forest floor, and all over dead, fallen trees one sees so many variety of fungi, rich vibrant colours adding to the palette of colours only nature can give. As you look upwards bearded lichen (tillandsia) hangs from the branches giving the impression of ‘rainforest curtains’ in the softest, sheerest of fabrics.

Though not located on the main road, a signposted detour leads you to a circular loop car parking area where begins a magical rainforest walk to Lake Chisholm, a naturally occurring sinkhole of which there are many in this region. A 30 minute return walk takes you through a changing forest walk, huge tall eucalypts tower overhead as huge tree ferns, myrtle, sassafras complete with bearded lichen and blackwood trees grow abundantly beneath them and the clearly marked track is bordered once again by hard water ferns always rattling softly against one’s legs. Lake Chisholm is an amazing formation, one of many sinkholes in the area, but one of very few now filled with water. Sinkholes form over many hundreds of thousands of years as water slowly dissolves, deep underground, a very highly soluble rock such as dolomite which is plentiful in this region. As the buried rock slowly dissolves a sinkhole depression is left, usually having a ‘plug hole’ at the bottom where water drains into the groundwater system. At Lake Chisholm the ‘plug hole’ has become blocked with organic matter, thus creating an extraordinary lake, so sheltered by the surrounding forest, towering giant eucalypts and rainforest species, that no wind occurs and the water remains perfectly still, giving crystal clear reflections. This in turn causes the cold water to sit at the bottom of the lake, while the warm water lies at the top creating an environment for an unusual wealth of organisms and algae unique to Tasmania, where they thrive in the rich brown waters of the lake.

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Lake Chisholm Forest Reserve, Tasmania

Dempster Plains Reserve

The drive from Lake Chisholm to Dempster Plains takes you through ‘new growth’ forest, where the old growth forests have been harvested, and now the reigning trees are predominantly eucalypt, but the other species are beginning to grow here once more and the beautiful fronds of the Dickensonia (tree ferns) borders the road in many areas. As you leave the forested area, a magic buttongrass carpet comes into view, and here Dempster Plains is the home of numerous rare and threatened species of our native flora, one a pretty little white flowered heath called Epacris curtisae. These plains have a history of burning by Aborigines, and many plant species here rely on fire to regenerate. A walkway through the buttongrass plains leads to a raised platform lookout, where one can gaze across the buttongrass plains, (a view which leaves one feeling almost as though in Africa, or just off the set of The Lion King movie) where in the distance on a clear day the Norfolk Ranges in the Tarkine Wilderness are clearly visible.

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Dempster Plains

Tayatea Bridge

Due to severe flooding when the original bridge was washed away in 2007, Tayatea Bridge has unfortunately been closed, but will re-open at the end of June, 2012. Tayatea Bridge is another perfect stop for fishing or kayaking, and picnic facilities are available. Many kayakers choose this spot to start a journey kayaking down the rapids of the Arthur River to Kanunnah Bridge.

Comments relevant to this article are always most welcome, just leave a reply below. But first… please confirm the date of this article. Have you found something current, or is this ancient information? Either way, thanks for your company and come back again soon.

Unfortunately I will never be able to visit these wonderful places but Carol when I read your articles and see the magnificent pics you take me there – I could hear the rattling ferns and feel them brush against my legs and through your eyes I see the magical scenery of these places in Tasmania that you must truly love – bless and thank you.

Roseann, if my words have the ability to take you there, then it makes me truly happy to have shared my world through my eyes. The beauty of this area is becoming a deep love for me, my how it awakens the senses. Too many in our world ‘look, but don’t see’, ‘touch, but don’t feel’…a journey into these forests would awaken many to the awe of the beauty that exists right here in Tassie. Thanks so much for stopping by once more…Hugs!
Sincerely,
Carol

Yet another wonderful article Carol. You’re creating quite a following with your excellent articles and amazing photographs. keep up the good work, you’re a wonderful ambassador for Tasmania. As Rosanne states above, those that never have the opportunity to actually visit will always be able to have a virtual tour of the state through your excellent work and I’m sure they wait with baited breath for your next article.

Hi Laurie,
Thank you so, so much for your continued support, I truly do appreciate it…support and encouragement are what will keep me writing, plus my passion to share those special, unique areas here in our island state.
Love you,
Carol

Hi,
I don’t know if you are all aware but mining company Venture Minerals is planning an open-cut tin mine at Mount Lindsay in this very special region of northwest Tasmania. If it goes ahead, their proposed mine will destroy huge swathes of ancient rainforest.And that’s just the start. Venture Minerals have two other mine proposals currently before the Environment Minister. Another company, Shree Minerals, has a proposal for an iron ore mine in Nelson Bay.

North-west Tasmania could end up like Western Australia’s Pilbara region – scarred by massive mines and criss-crossed with roads and processing infrastructure. These forests draw thousands of visitors to Tasmania every year and support a thriving local tourism industry. They also provide crucial habitat for threatened native species like the Tasmanian Devil and the Spotted Tailed Quoll.

So if you plan on visiting the Tarkine, do so now before this pristine wonderland is all gone.

Hi Mia,
mmmm, I am aware of the mining proposals, and well aware of the core drilling happening in the beautiful Tarkine…it truly does sadden me. I could write a book on the arguments against mining here, and another on the reasons this place needs to be heritage listed…but I truly hope each and every person who visits our beautiful state can make the effort to visit this magical place.
Sincerely,
Carol

Nice post. I haven’t had much opportunity to get to that corner of the state… but I really should.
The inset on the Julius River image is actually of a moss (Weymouthia – possibly Weymouthia mollis). Bearded lichen is actually an Usnea species. Tillandsia usneoides (spanish moss) looks similar to these two plants but is in fact a flowering plant.

I love Tasmania. Have been to the North West a few times and explored Arthur River and the Tarkine. Heading back this year and we are doing more of the Tarkine, this time heading into Corinna. The area is so unspoilt it would be the worst shame to open it up to mining!! Just horrible. Cannot wIt to explore more of glorious Tasmania in September.