The Riverhouse Restaurant, 34450 Brooten Rd., Pacific City, OR; 503/965-6722 orriverhousefoods.com . Steamer clams simmered in garlic butter, parsley, and vermouth lend new meaning to the term "rich." The clam chowder comes spiked with paprika and laced with cream. If you still have room, try the Dungeness crab or Pacific shrimp sandwiches, broiled open faced on a French roll and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. (2007)

Scampi's Fish Wagon, 16333 Lower Harbor Rd., Harbor, OR; 541/412-9530. A trailer-turned-kitchen huddles in a corner of a parking lot. The fried fish, most of it caught that morning, comes lightly battered, nongreasy, and delicious. (2005)

Chinook's at Salmon Bay, 1900 W. Nickerson St., Seattle, WA; 206/283-4665 oranthonys.com/restaurants/info/chinooks.html . The interior design is Warehouse Revival and the atmosphere Early Pandemonium, but this is the place Seattleites take visitors for authentic seafood. The vast menu features simple, unpretentious fare, such as fishermen's cioppino, rockfish slathered with salsa fresca, and alder-planked salmon. (2006)

The Harbour Public House, 231 Parfitt Way S.W., Bainbridge Island, WA; 206/842-0969 orharbourpub.com . A wonderful seafood menu that changes with the seasons, though you can always get good fish-and-chips. (2003)

Breakers Pub, 117 George Hills Dr., Prince Rupert, British Columbia, Canada; 250/624-5990. Try the halibut chowder and the fish-and-chips made from local lingcod. (2001)

Flying Beaver Bar & Grill, 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, British Columbia, Canada; 604/273-0278 ormarkjamesgroup.com/flyingbeaver.html . The restaurant sits a short taxi or shuttle ride from Vancouver International Airport and only a five-minute walk from the small South Terminal. Even meat-and-potatoes fans love the salmon burgers. (2006)