I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous.

Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers.

Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary.

Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point.