Downing Douzhir

Douzhir (豆汁, Mung Bean Milk) is one of the most famous traditional Beijing snacks, but unfortunately it has three strikes against it: a weird smell (think food that’s gone bad), an unusual taste (a slightly sour fermented bean flavor with a hint of sweetness) and a less than appetizing gray and sometimes green pallor that some may liken to swill. But like most true delicacies, it’s an acquired taste with a hefty fanbase – ask any older native Beijinger relaxing on the streets of the capital and they will almost certainly declare their appetite for the mung bean milk.

This soup was classified as a cheap street food centuries ago – no high-end or even mid-level restaurants in the capital city serve douzhir. However, douzhir is rich in protein, vitamin C and dietary fiber. It’s also said to take the bite out of summer heat – perhaps one of the reasons why tens of thousands of Beijingers just love it, even though it’s tough for first-timers to swallow and keep down. Our advice? Keep trying. Some say if you can successfully drink douzhir on your first attempt, there’s a good chance that you will become addicted to it.

So what is this mystery drink that simultaneously frightens and inspires love in its drinkers? Douzhir is actually the fluid remnants of the mung bean noodle-making process. Its history can be traced back to more than 1,000 years ago during the Song Dynasty, when someone accidentally discovered that the liquid in the upper layer of the jar used for making mung bean noodles, was actually drinkable – and to his surprise, it tasted quite good (he must have been one of the rare specimens who like the beverage immediately). Since then, douzhir gained popularity become popular especially during Emperor Qianlong’s era in the Qing dynasty – it’s said the emperor ordered cooks from outside the palace to make douzhir for the imperial family. Henceforth, douzhir was recognized as one of the imperial snacks and became even more popular among Beijingers. The tradition of drinking douzhir persists among Beijing residents, especially for old folks. Sometimes, people from other provinces will mistakenly think that douzhir and soybean milk are the same thing, but a real Beijinger won’t make that mistake (and no one makes that mistake twice).

Usually, douzhir is served very hot (you’ll see diners taking small sips) with thinly shredded Chinese-style pickles and deep-fried dough rings. Look for authentic douzhir at old Beijing establishments, like the Jinxin douzhir restaurant 锦鑫豆汁儿 (opposite the north gate of the Temple of Heaven) in Chongwen District. Or, try Huguosi Snack Restaurant 护国寺小吃店 (93 Huguosi Dajie, Xicheng District). Visit www.dianping.com or call 6618 1705 for more branches.

Just like the slogan found on typical Great Wall T-shirts, “He who has never reached the Great Wall is not a true man,” there’s an old saying among Beijing locals: He who has problems drinking douzhir is not a real Beijingren (不爱喝豆汁的人不是真正的老北京).