When made well, red beans and rice lifts simple ingredients and almost any mood.

Of course, there's no one best way to make the dish, so a good bowl is one of those experiences in the “I'll know it when I see it” category. It must have good meaty flavor, preferably from ham bone, maybe some bacon grease, perhaps some tasso ham, andouille sausage or meat from a plump ham hock. The mixture needs enough bay leaves to infuse a good herby undertone and it needs to build on the Cajun trinity of onions, green bell peppers and celery.

Finally, the beans themselves need to have a somewhat creamy consistency, one that comes from a nice, slow simmer. There's no rushing a good pot of red beans and rice, so it's one of those dishes that's often better done in the kitchen of a skilled home cook rather than a restaurant.

An outstanding version comes out of the kitchen at Lenny's BBQ, a small neighborhood restaurant that few people are likely to know outside of its area near Potranco Road outside Loop 1604.

Those beans deserve a special trip from just about any part of town.

Remember, though — this is a neighborhood place, with its own quirks, but the home cooking here is legit and some of the dishes are exceptional.

Among those other standout items is a beautiful gumbo, with deep flavor from a well-made roux. The one we received could have been hotter in temperature, but the flavor was enough to prove memorable.

You will want to order the sweet corn hush puppies. Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside, they're a wonderful appetizer and will accompany just about anything here. Avoid the bottled ranch dressing that accompanies it. The hush puppies are so good, they don't need any sauce anyway.

The crawfish étouffée, served over white rice, included lots of the crustaceans in a flavorful stew that seemed to be thickened with either flour or corn starch. Those crawfish, with generous chunks of the trinity, anchored another fun dish. This is the restaurant's signature dish, and it's a good one.

A jambalaya, with chunks of sausage, shrimp and fresh tomatoes, revealed rice simmered in a flavorful tomato broth. It's served by itself or with a fillet of fried catfish.

The catfish fillets here are just beautiful. A well-seasoned cornmeal crust seals in lots of moisture, so the result is a beautiful contrast of flavors and textures that may prove as satisfying as the red beans and rice. It's served with a small cup of a remoulade-inspired tartar sauce, with a nice sourness from pickle relish contrasting with what tasted like mayo and ketchup. That's a good sauce and won't detract from the flavor of the outstanding catfish, but the fish doesn't need any help.

A fried pork chop that our group tried had a good flavor from the seasoning, but was a bit tough. Yes, it's difficult to make thinner cuts of pork chops tender. Perhaps a bit of brining before cooking would help.

On the side, try some cheesy, gooey and melty mac and cheese or some tender green beans, enlivened with chunks of fresh tomato and bits of bacon. Or perhaps tender and lightly bitter collard greens, with a bit of bacon, would be more your style.

The pinto beans, slightly spicy with some sweetness, also include a noticeable note of mustard, a happy addition.

The 'cue turns out nicely, especially the well-seasoned chicken with good smoke flavor. The brisket had a nice flavor, but the one we tried had a texture as though it had been cooked with too much water, so it had overtones of braising.

Folks here say that “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” is coming soon, but there's no date yet. That means there's still time, but this place is worth a visit soon.