Description

Sort of an odd route. It is a very segmented pitch with easy boulder problems at each bolt. Do a problem, stand on a ledge... do a problem, stand on an ledge. There are chain anchors on the top of the formation to rap from. If you want to rap after doing Monkey Business you can scramble up to these anchors and then TR this route as a bonus.

Location

This route is just right of an old top rope called Wage and Price Ceiling. It starts just around the corner to the SW of Monkey Business.

Route looks unimpressive from the ground and not so difficult. The start is easy .8 crack to a ledge. Moving onto the face past the first bolt is a bit awkward and the same story of pseudo hard/awkward move when stepping across from the block further up onto the headwall. I was surprised it had any cruxy moves on it at all.

Strange route - OK to TR if you used the anchor to rap from other routes. Not hard to lead, it just wouldn't be worth the trouble.

Named after the gaping chasm you must stem across to get to the top face. Much more exciting to lead, with good pro (4 bolts plus thin to 2"), although I saw one leader fall down into "the Maw" with an inattentive belayer. It's a fun and somewhat committing lead.

Bob..."much more exciting to lead", isn't that the truth! Today's activities were pretty grim actually pulled through at the crux (talk about POOR style!). Funny I didn't remember any part of the route until reaching the step across section.

Not a sport climb. Unless you want to solo 5.8 to get to the first bolt (about 20 feet up), you'll want some pro to protect the start. I used a #1 metolius (.6 inches) and a #1 camalot (1.5 inches). After that you've got 4 bolts for pro to the top.

The move past the first bolt is a balancey 10a; 5.9 past the second bolt, then 10a/b past the two bolts on the top headwall. The step-across to the top headwall (spanning "the maw") is somewhat leg length and height dependent.