If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

I have to flip the frame over to rout both sides, but the de-sta-co clamps hold the bars down well so my hands are far enough away that it's totally safe to use. I also have a block that's cut one size for where it contacts the top bar and another piece that holds it where it attaches to the bottom bar. These 2 blocks keep it snug and hinders the frame from exploding. I did about 100 frames worth of end bars in about a half hour.

Re: End bar routing jig

Thanks for sharing! Looks like a good set up for frame production.

I do not make my frames any more, but if I did, I might give this a try.

I used to rip end bars from 2X6 stock. Before ripping I would plane it to 1 3/8", cut the 2X6 to length, route the grooves for top and bottom bars, the cut the profile on the block with a jointer. Then I would rip 10 or 11 completed end bars from each block.

Re: End bar routing jig

This is another way of doing it. I can see how it would work well, but now that I have the jig made I think I may be able to do it faster still. It seems what you're talking about is a 2 step process right? (cut the 1-1/4" part then cut the rest) What I've done is I'm able to get the whole edge of the frame done in one pass, then flip it over and I have now 2 end bars done. I assume that you push them into the cutter right? Do you have any isues with them splitting out or do you do it before the bottom bar joint is cut? I'm not making new frames, but rather modifying frames. I can't make them currenty cheaper than what I can buy them for sure. Perhaps when / if I ever get a good woodshop together then I may do it. I would be interested in seeing your setup. In thinking about it it seems that modifying the frames would be difficult to get them started into the cutter w/o the cutter wanting to take the end bar into itself or splitting. Do you have this issue?

Re: End bar routing jig

I too am just modifying purchased frames. I trim the end bars to a width of 1 1/4" with the tablesaw, then shape the lower portion with router table. For the most part I have not had major splitting when feeding them into router bit. Perhaps 3 out of a 100 might split a little. But not bad enough that the end isn't usable. Its better when i turn the rpm down on router. I'm to the point that I might start making my own frames from scratch. By the time I modify a standard frame to a narrow I might be better off.

Re: End bar routing jig

If you were stacking end bars and doing half a dozen at a time, that clamping jig is just the thing. If you are doing one at a time, it's overkill.

I ran two at a time on the jointer tonight -- ran a box of 400 or so in an hour -- but no more than that, too hard to hold down. I need to sharpen the jointer blades too, or better yet buy a decent set and toss the cheapies that came with it, they dull very fast.

I plane a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 to the correct thickness and then slice off 5/16 or so pieces on the band saw. Not as accurate so far as the table saw since I'm using a home-made fence, and just getting used to a band saw, but it works pretty well. You can cut the taper on the jointer before slicing off the end bars if you want, but it does make it harder to saw them.

I will be cutting the angles on the sides of the end bars shortly with a block plane -- need to get the blade sharpened properly first.

Then next week I'll get boxes made and a frame assembly jig (which is in bits downstairs at the moment) and start getting frames put together. Haven't decided if I want to use brass eyelets yet, but given the cost and the minimal installation time, I probably will. I like wired frames.

Re: End bar routing jig

Re: End bar routing jig

Hi, I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd share my method of modifying end bars. I use the tablesaw for cutting them down to 1 1/4" in two passes and then move the fence in another 1/8" and rip only up to the existing taper on one side of each, move the fence in another 1/8" and rip the other sides the same. It's not quite as pretty as instead of a taper you end up with an angled step sort of, but i'd wager it is quicker than the router with either a fence or jig. Probably would be a close race with the jointer.
Chi