Our range of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé demonstrates the stylistic variety of wines made in both appellations, from crisp and steely to rounded and complex. While cost pricing on these ‘restaurant fixtures’ sadly heads in only one direction, our long-term producer relationships have considerably helped to soften a series of blows.

Château la Noë in Muscadet not long ago changed ownership in intriguing circumstances, but the quality remains irreproachable. The minerality and depth are quite remarkable — it really is one of the best value wines in our list.

The new vintage of the Sauvignon de Touraine ‘la Noblette’ is also first class — crisp and lively, an excellent alternative to more illustrious names. At a similar level the Grand Caillou sauvignon blanc and pinot noir are fresh, modern wines from the same stable as our stalwart ‘Cuvée Mmm’: the latter outperformed several Sancerre samples in a recent blind tasting.

Also worthy of mention are elegantly structured reds (from cabernet franc and pinot noir) and the complex Saumur blanc from Langlois-Château, along with the honeyed Coteaux du Layon ‘les Terriades’.

100% sauvignon blanc. Touraine is a patchwork of sandy, gravel and flinty clay soils, but may in fact be where the sauvignon blanc variety originated; gooseberry and blackcurrant leaf are the most obvious notes here, set against a refreshing citrus bite. 12.5% ABV

100% sauvignon blanc. Made by the Fournier family, long established in Sancerre, this is a bright and refreshing sauvignon blanc — flavours of blackcurrant leaf and passionfruit combine happily with vibrant acidity and minerality. 12% ABV

100% sauvignon blanc. Made by the Fournier family (long established in Sancerre) from old vines in Touraine and Anjou, essential Loire minerality reinforces a lively fruit intensity that one might readily associate with a New World wine. 12% ABV

100% sauvignon blanc. One of the few wines that Pascal Gitton doesn’t make from a single vineyard site (seemingly in a successful attempt to infuriate the local AOC authority), this is blended from his considerable holdings in Sancerre and Ménétréol; fresh, rounded and distinctly mineral in style. 13.5% ABV

100% sauvignon blanc. Pascal Gitton could act as a stunt double (in both appearance and mannerisms) for Francis Ford Coppola, while his single vineyard Sancerre ‘Cuvée l’Amiral’ is similarly forceful — with a depth and concentration reminiscent of both Pessac-Léognan and premier cru Chablis, this presents enveloping minerality and intriguing notes of fennel. 12.5% ABV

100% sauvignon blanc. Pascal Gitton’s single vineyard Pouilly is vinified in stainless steel to preserve freshness and fruit, with an expressive aroma of smoke and lemon leading into a clean, chalky palate. 12.5% ABV

100% pinot noir. After many years as winemaker for another domaine, Régis Jouan recently started up in his own name. This is surprisingly pale even for Sancerre rosé, but the nose already suggests wild strawberries; the palate has similarly elegant red fruit character and lovely acidity.