I agree with #1 as well. Although, if needed a bag of sand could be tossed on the base to make it feel a bit less top-heavy.

Although, the last place I worked required all equipment to be bolted down. Made it hard to drag a drill press over to a mill for a second operation.

rock~

BadDog

11-30-2008, 08:10 PM

I agree with the others as well. I don't bolt down my drill presses, though I believe OSHA requires it. They are VERY top heavy, and one the size of my big 20" VSG would put some serious hurt on you if it toppled. But that has never been a problem (yet).

J Tiers

11-30-2008, 09:44 PM

I have an 18" Clausing standing on it's own base, which is pretty substantial. But if it got a good push, it would come over. And on it's way over it will have some serious force..... I lifted it into the truck, and it's surely a heavy thing.

More so if I re-mount the original 100lb 1 HP Crocker-Wheeler motor on it.......

I've been thinking of bolting it on top of a large piece of plywood to increase the base width. This is an earthquake zone, after all.

Then again, it is so tall that it is into the piping and joists above it, so maybe some plumber's tape holding it close to upright would prevent the problem from starting.

Your Old Dog

11-30-2008, 09:56 PM

I'd just get a lanyard to go around you belt to the drill press so it can't get away from you while you are working :D I have a floor model Delta and really don't like the damn thing bobbing and weaving around. I've thought about trying to mount it through a hole in the workbench to help stabilize it AND give more places on the work bench to sit stuff while I'm working.

I once had the save drill press in a bench mount and I don't know what go into me when I unloaded it and got this floor model. I think tool lust got the better of me and in this case for me, lessor was actually better :D

winchman

12-01-2008, 12:30 AM

I made a triangular brace to go between the top of the column and the wall behind it. It was wide enough to have bolts going into two wall studs.

Roger

Evan

12-01-2008, 02:34 AM

I have my Strands bolted to a much wider base of wood for stability. It won't tip and is still relatively easy to move.
The wood base is covered in galavanized sheet metal.

http://metalshopborealis.ca/pics5/dpbase.jpg

Your Old Dog

12-01-2008, 06:28 AM

I made a triangular brace to go between the top of the column and the wall behind it. It was wide enough to have bolts going into two wall studs.

Roger

I'll have that done today ! Great simple fix for something that has bugged me every time I address the DP. Everything in the shop has a nice stable feel to it but this damn machine.

Just noticed this is Steve's first post. Welcome to the board Steve :D

DR

12-01-2008, 10:30 AM

Take a look at the current crop of floor standing DP's. Notice how small the bases are.

Then take a look at older American made DP's, the bases are huge in comparison.

The only explanation I have for the tiny bases on the imports is they're sized that way to fit into a smaller box.

If I had to use an import I certainly would not have it free standing.

phatfred8

12-01-2008, 05:47 PM

I made a heavy skid out of 4 x 4 runners and 2 x 6 cross boards. Mounted the drill press to the pallet with lag bolts. This skid was made to fit my pallet jack. If I need to move it for any reason just jack it up an move. One other thing is that it raised the working hieght to something more my size.

Alot of ways to skin the cat!

BM

Stephenwp

12-01-2008, 09:09 PM

I think I'm going to drill the floor and use drop in anchors. It'll be firmly attached to the floor, but a ratchet can quickly remove the bolts if I need to move it. Drop in anchors are flush to the floor.

George Hodge

12-01-2008, 09:56 PM

I have a Walker-Turner that would wander around if I didn't have a short section of basement jack setting on top of it pressing against a beam of the ceiling.Hasn't moved in 25 years!

mikem

12-01-2008, 10:24 PM

Evan--I assume that the fan in your shop hasn't been turned on in few months! :)

Evan

12-01-2008, 10:36 PM

You assume correctly. It's for blowing welding fumes away from me. I haven't been doing much welding. The shop is insulated and warm enough to work in though. Currently I am outfitting some new shop space in the basement. I have a deal with my wife, I get most of the downstairs and she gets most of the upstairs. It works out pretty well.

Silverback

12-02-2008, 01:04 PM

I have a floor model Delta and really don't like the damn thing bobbing and weaving around.

I got tired of mine doing the same and threw a couple of bags of sand on the base, fixed the problem and made it feel much more substantial in the process. Later when I added some link belts it got rid of 90% of the vibration from the machine anyway, so now it’s very stable.

the problem that I can see with bracing it to a wall is that stud framing vs concrete floor = seasonal changes, plus that the wall that mine is near supports stairs and I’d bet that it moves some with people walking up and down the stairs, and I actually wasted my time leveling mine so I can figure out exact setup angles quickly using a digital level so it moving around would annoy me.

hoggrunt2

02-15-2016, 06:03 PM

I am new to machining and have an elevated building for a shop with plywood floors. I used large lag bolts to mount the press but the wood still allows flex side to side which annoys me when adjusting my compound table with minute movements. I do have floor joists above me supporting a loft and was going to just fab brackets to attach a diagonal brace which requires a torch and bending and drilling.....but laying in a corner was an old main drag link for a tractor with heim ends that allowed enough flex to attach to the motor mount and to a joist that was out of plane with the motor base by about 4" to the rear and locked the top down solid plus allowed for adjustment if level showed slightly off due to the building shifting/floor flexing.

Ironwoodsmith

02-15-2016, 06:37 PM

Welcome to the forum Mr. Grunt

steve45

02-15-2016, 06:48 PM

I think I'm going to drill the floor and use drop in anchors. It'll be firmly attached to the floor, but a ratchet can quickly remove the bolts if I need to move it. Drop in anchors are flush to the floor.

You can do this with a drill press, but do NOT do it with a standup style air compressor. Vibration will kill it and possibly crank the tank. (ask how I know). If you must secure a compressor, bolt it loosely with the rubber isolators that are made for the purpose.