ShapegussetsPick up sts along selvedge edges of heel flap and rejoin for working in the rnd as folls:Rnd1 With needle 1, K18 heel sts then pick up and knit 16 sts along side of heel flap; with needle 2, K across 31 instep sts; with needle 3, pick up and knit 16 sts along other side of heel flap – 81 sts total; 25 sts each on needle 1 and 3; 31 instep sts on needle 2. Rnd begins at centre of heel.Rnd2 On needle 1, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; K across needle 2; on needle 3, K1, SSK, K to end – 2 sts dec’d.Rnd3 KRep rnds 2 and 3 until 60 sts rem.

FootCont in St st until foot measures 6.5cm less than desired foot length.

Friday, August 31, 2007

Soft enclosures

A quick, beautifully crafted item that is perfect for gifts or when you need instant gratification.Choose butter-soft wools that drape and fold around the body : Fine, lightweight fabrics in interesting textures : Unexpected materials give interest to simple shapes : Neutrals teamed with red or olive tones work best – or keep it simple with graphic black and white.

Materials

▪ 1.5m main fabric

▪ co-ordinating fabric pieces▪ matching thread▪ brooch

Instructions

The instructions below do not allow for seam allowances. Please remember to add approx 1cm seams (or less) for each join. Please check the diagram for finished measurements and adjust accordingly.

1. Cut and machine stitch the co-ordinating cotton strips according to the measurements in the diagram below – ensure that they are approx 20cm wide after seam allowances.

2. Measure the main fabric and cut a strip that is 20cm wide and 95cm long (not including seams).

3. Machine stitch the strips and main fabric together. This is the front piece.

4. Measure the back fabric against the front piece (it should be 20cm wide approx 125cm long, not including seams).

5. With RS tog, pin both pieces all the way around, leaving a gap of approx 10cm [for turning]. Machine stitch both sides together [but not the gap], leaving a seam allowance of approx 1cm.

6. Press lightly, clip each corner diagonally and turn the scarf RS out through the gap.

Shape bodyNext row P3, P2tog, P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d per side (10 total sts)… 70 sts

Change to smaller needles and cont in reverse stocking st for 12 rows.

Shape armholesCast off 4 sts at beg of next two rows… 62 stsDec 1 st at end of next 6 rows… 50 stsCont straight for 42 rows, ending with a P side facing.Cast off all sts in K st

Front RSUsing 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.Next row PNextrow KRep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).Nextrow P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3.Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.Nextrow P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3Nextrow KBegin neck shaping – start your button hole here (optional) – I used a button and snap fastener. Nextrow P2tog, P to endNextrow KRep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

ShapearmholesCast off 4 sts at beg of next K rowNextrow P2tog, P to endDec 1 st at beg of next 6 K rows…Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.Cast off rem sts in K st

Front LSUsing 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.Nextrow PNextrow KRep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).Nextrow P3, P2tog, P to end.Rep this row every 8 (or so) RS rows until 5 sts have been dec on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.Nextrow P3, P2tog, P to end.Nextrow K

Begin neck shapingNextrow P to last 2 sts, P2togNextrow KRep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

ShapearmholesCO 4 sts at beg of next P row, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.Nextrow KDec 1 st at beg of next 6 P rows, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.Cast off rem sts in K st

1. Measure the circumference of the base and cut main fabric and lining accordingly (allow 1.5cm seam allowance). Use contrasting fabric for pockets and sew onto the lining.

2. Place main fabric and lining with RS facing each other and machine sew all the way around, leaving a 5cm gap at both top corners (for the drawcord) and a 15cm gap at one of the bottom corners.

Tip: Cut fabric with pinking shears to avoid over-locking the sides or fiddling with French seams.

3. Push/flip through the larger opening so that the RS is now facing you. Use a knitting needle to push the corner out and hand stitch closed. Do not stitch the 2 x 5cm gaps at the top.

4. Draw cord tube: Machine sew approx 4cm down from the top (from one gap to the other).

5. Iron the fabric before attaching it to the knitted base.

6. Hand stitch the fabric onto the knitted base, bringing both sides around to form a circle. Join. Hand or machine stitch closed. 7. Measure and cut drawcord/ribbon (ensure you have enough length to tie). Fasten a safety pin onto one side of the ribbon and push through the tube.

:: An alternative to the knitted base is a basket:

Body

Repeat steps 1 - 5 (above)

6. Before affixing the fabric onto the basket, try and pin it into place (as best as you can). Thread a tapestry needle with 3 strands of embroidery cotton and with RS facing you, sew the fabric onto a single ridge (weave) of the basket. Be careful not to snag/snap the cotton. Repeat approx 3 - 4 times for each stitch, threading the needle between the main fabric and lining to the next ridge, until you've sewn all the way around the basket. Join both sides together and hand stitch the seam closed.

2. Measure piece across the top and cut both fabrics in accordance with this size (don't forget your seam allowance - approx 2cm).My knitted piece was 18cm across the top, therefore I cut 2 x W20cm fabric pieces.

3. Place main fabric and lining with RS facing each other and machine sew all around the square, leaving a 10cm gap at one of the bottom corners.Tip: Cut fabric with pinking shears to avoid over-locking.

4. Push/flip through the opening so that the RS is now facing you. Use a knitting needle to push the corner out and hand stitch closed.

5. Drawcord section – you can use my method (below) or this alternativeI folded the top part of the pouch over so that it contrasts with the lining. Sew across but do NOT sew the edges as this is where you’ll thread your drawcord.

6. Iron the fabric before attaching to the knitted base.

7. Hand stitch or machine sew the fabric all the way around the knitted base. Join to form a tube and hand stitch closed.8. Measure and cut drawcord/ribbon. Fasten a safety pin onto one side and push through the tube.