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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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Remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Preparing motor for carburetor install 1. Remove stock manifold from cylinder head. 2. Place supplied o’ring into aluminum flange as pictured in figure 1. Figure 1. 3. Install aluminum and rubber flange to motor using supplied bolts. See Figure 2. The shorter 25mm bolt will need to be placed in the bottom hole. IMPORTANT NOTE: Install the aluminum flange with the o’ring towards the motor and the thick side up.

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures ￻ choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures ￻ choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only). 2. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 3. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4) : 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. 3. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1). Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 7. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3) : 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 2. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. 3. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 4. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. 2. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. 1. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. 2. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. 3. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). 4. Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). 5. Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. 6. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4)

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Install the throttle cables into the supplied throttle housing and place onto clean handlebar end. 2. Remove the rubber carburetor alignment tabs from the manifold using a razor blade or sharp cutters. This should be done with the rag left in the manifold. Be very careful not to damage the manifold or your hands while doing this!! 3. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering
adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 4. Install provided fuel line onto fuel inlet banjo and secure with pinch clamp. 5. Place Edelbrock carburetor into manifold. Do not tighten clamp yet. 6. Remove the cable bracket end from cable bracket using #2 phillips. 7. Install pull cable (see Figure 2) end into
the 4:00 position of the cable wheel and the return cable into the 1:00 position. Secure cables into cable bracket by replacing end piece and phillips screw. See figure 3.

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A. BEFORE INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW ZENITH CARBURETOR, NSPECT THE RUBBER MANIFOLD SEAL FOR NICKS,CRACKS, OR DEBRIS. APPLYING A LIGHT FILM OF PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANT AROUND THE INSIDE LIP OF THE RUBBER SEAL WILL ALLOW THE CARBURETOR TO SLIP INTO PLACE EASIER. B. BEFORE ACTUAL INSTALLATION OF UNIT INTO MANIFOLD, THROTTLE CABLES SHOULD BE HOOKED TO THETHROTTLEWHEEL.MAKESURETHATTHE PULL CABLE IS LOCATEDPROPERLY TO OPEN THE THROTTLE PLATE (IN SOME APPLICATIONS THROTTLE CABLE SLACK MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED FOR PROPER HOOKUP AND OPERATION) SEE FIG. #1 C. AFTER THROTTLE CABLES ARE PROPERLY HOOKED UP,UNITCAN BE INSERTED INTO MANIFOLD. MAKE SURE THAT UNIT IS FULLY SEATED. WITH CARBURETOR SEATED INTO MANIFOLD AND FUEL LINE HOOKED UP TO FUEL INLET, INSTALL CHOKE CABLE AND HOOK TO CHOKE LEVER. PLACE AIR INTAKE GASKET ON END OF CARBURETOR, NEXT PLACE INTAKE ADAPTOR OVER INTAKE GASKET. SEE FIG#2 ZENITH MOD.16P12 SPIGET MOUNT CARBURETOR -HARLEY DAVIDSON ™ BIG TWIN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FIG. # 1 FIG. # 2 D. WITH ADAPTOR IN PLACE, LOCATE THE STOCK AIR BOX OVER THE ADAPTOR, UTILIZING THE STOCK AIR BOX GASKET (THERESHOULDBENO GAPS BETWEEN ADAPTOR, AIRBOX OR CARBURETOR WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED) STAND-OFF SPACERS PROVIDED ARE TOBEPLACEDBETWEENAIR BOX& ENGINE HEADS BEFORE INSTALLING THE VENT/RETAINING BOLTS. FOR EVALUATION ENGINES STOCK VENT BOLTS CAN BE USED WITH LARGERI.D. SPACER PROVIDED. SEE FIG#3 E. WITH AIR BOXSECURELY IN PLACE, INSTALL THE AIR FILTER COVER RETAINING BRACKET AND FILTER USING THE STOCKBOLTS, AND REPLACE AIR FILTER COVER AND SECURE WITH STOCK BOLT. SEE FIG#4 F. AFTER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE AND FUEL FLOW HAS BEEN RE-ESTABLISHED, CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS BEFORE STARTING ENGINE. H. AFTER STARTING ENGINE, SOME ADJUSTMENTS OF IDLE AND MAIN JET MAYBE REQUIRED FOR PROPER OPERATION. AFTER ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE AND WITH ENGINEAT IDLE, TURN WHEEL FULLYTOLEFTANDRIGHT.ANYCHANGEIN IDLE SPEED INDICATES THROTTLE CABLES ARE TOO TIGHT AND MORE SLACK MUST BE PROVIDED.

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Loop the hose around the bottom of the yardstick and secure it with wire or twist ties so that it runs straight up both sides; avoid pinching. Trim the ends to the same length, and cut an 8″ piece from each end. Suck ATF into the line so that it fills the tubing about 8″ high on each side. Splice the end pieces back on with the pilot jets. Remote Fuel Bottle. On OEM carbs with a central synchronizing screw,adjustment (see Section II.) is easiest with the tank removed. Make a remote tank from a 1 qt. plastic bottle. Install a 1/4″ hose barb in the bottom of the bottle and a lawn mower fuel valve in the line (an in-line filter is also a good idea). Attach a wire to the top of the bottle and hang it where you need it. Safety note: many plastics will break down with exposure to fuel. Be sure your material is fuel resistant, and empty the container immediately after use. This item is not strictly necessary. 5twins recommends rough adjustment with the tank removed, using fuel remaining in the float bowls, followed by fine adjustment with the tank in place, reaching in with a long screwdriver. You can also set the tank on a work bench or other elevated surface and run extensions to the carburetor lines. Compressor If you intend to do much mechanical work at all, an air compressor with sufficient capacity to power an impact wrench will pay for itself quickly. For carb cleaning, attach an air gun with a rubber tip.

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Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal: •Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers. Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring.

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GENERALEXCLUSIONS from this warranty shall include any failures caused by: a. Competition or racing use. b. Installation of parts or accessories that are not qualitatively equivalent to genuine Yamaha parts. c. Abnormal strain, neglect, or abuse. d. Lack of proper maintenance. e. Accident or collision damage. f. Modification to original parts. g. Damage due to improper transportation. SPECIFIC EXCLUSIONS from this warranty shall include parts replaced due to normal wear or routine maintenance. THE CUSTOMER’S RESPONSIBILITY under this warranty shall be to: 1. Operate and maintain the motorcycle as specified in the appropriate Owner’s Manual. 2. Give notice to an authorized Yamaha motorcycle dealer of any and all apparent defects within ten (10) days after discovery, and make the machine available at that time for inspection and repairs at such dealer’s place of business. You may locate your nearest authorized Yamaha dealer through your local telephone directory. WARRANTY TRANSFER: To transfer any remaining warranty from the original purchaser to any subsequent purchaser, it is imperative that the machine be inspected and registered for warranty by an authorized Yamaha motorcycle dealer. In order for this warranty to remain in effect, this inspection and registration must take place within ten (10) days after transfer. Areasonable dealer imposed fee may be charged for the inspection. In no case will warranty be extended beyond the original period. EMISSIONS CONTROLSYSTEM WARRANTY Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. also warrants to the ultimate purchaser and each subsequent purchaser of each Yamaha motorcycle covered by this warranty with a displacement of 50cc or greater, that the vehicle is designed, built, and equipped so as to conform at the time of sale with all U.S. emissions standards applicable at the time of manufacture and that it is free from defects in materials and workmanship which would cause it not to meet these standards within the periods listed immediately below. Failures other than those resulting from defects in material or workmanship which arise solely as a result of owner abuse and/or lack of proper maintenance are not covered by this warranty.