Questions on New-Fangeled Work Bench

I want to preface this posting by saying that this was designed by Fine Wood Working shop manager, John White and I don’t take any credit for this shop work bench at all. Definitely not anything I came up with. With that said, lets get on with it! I have been asked a lot of questions regarding the work bench, so I thought I would post this project and try and answer most of the questions. Keep in mind the great thing about this table is that you can completely customize it. But, here is my dimensions and measurements. The boards used for the top were cut to 3” x 96”, which were cut from 2” x 10” boards so I could try and get the 1/4 sawn grain. My top is exactly 8’ long. The front part of the table, is 4 1/2” x 8’. The well is 9 3/4” and the back portion of the table is 10 1/2”.

The legs themselves are 5 1/2” x 30”, which were just two 2” x 6” pieces from framing stock lumber. I also used regular 2×6 framing lumber for the stretchers. I added two, original plan calls for one. I also cut the lower frame pieces to 3” wide thickness to make everything uniform, i.e. the feet and the table mounts and supports. I used 3 middle supports for the table, but the original plans used only two.

The foot or bottom of the leg was cut 3” x 24 3/4”. On the planing board end I drilled a 7/8” hole with a forstner bit, 3/4” deep into the wood. I centered the hole so it was 1 1/2” from the end and 1 1/2” from the side, which again, is centered for a 3” board. See pic below.

I assembled the leg sections (2×6 ) x 30” to the feet after I drilled the holes in the feet. The legs attached to the feet with the following spacing. From the opposite end of the foot from hole I placed the first leg at 3 1/4”, the second one was put at 13” from the end. Note: Next I put one of the support pieces (3” x 21 3/4”) on top of the legs and secured the legs.

Before starting the construction of the table, I knew I wanted an 8’ long table. So I took three of the 2” x 3” x 96” pieces and glued them up. The directions said to screw them all together, but I biscuit jointed them and glued the heck of it. I didn’t feel like pre-drilling all the holes and then screwing in all those screws, but you could do that if you didn’t want to wait for the glue to dry.

With the top of the leg being 21 3/4” and all of the pieces of the table top being 1 1/2” x 3” x 96”, you can see that the over all dimension of the table top would be 24 3/4”. I placed one of my 1 1/2” x 3” x 96” pieces on top of the assembled leg unit. I measured it out so it centered on the legs, so I had equal hangover on each side of the legs. This again is totally up to you how long you want your stretchers. Mark two of the three boards on end and the third board mark flat, to make a square. Two will be the boards you will drill holes in for the front clamps and the third will be the front board of the table top where the plane board pipes will go.

The two boards you marked out where the legs will attach will be used for the boards that are going to be used for the front clamp or vise boards. Two of the 2” x 3” x 96” should be drilled out for the front clamp boards. The plans said every 6” I think, but I drilled them out every 8”. I didn’t drill out the first or last 12” of the board because the planing wedge is on the left side and the plane board pipe in on the right.

On the third board that you marked two squares, make an “X” in the square, this will give you the location where you will drill the the top holes where the planer pipes go. Drill 7/8” holes, 3/4” deep.

Place one of the boards that you screwed the 7/8” holes in and another 2” x 3” x 96” together, to form an “L” shape. Pre-drill the two 2” x 3” x 96” that you drilled the 7/8” so they can be screwed together in an “L” shape to form the front of the table and to form the back part of the table.

Take two of the 3” x 21 3/4” pieces and make the table top. Screw the two pieces (3” x 21 3/4”) to the bottom of the front piece. Then measure 11 1/4” from the back of the front piece and draw a line. This should give you a 9” section to the end of the piece. Cut 9” spacers and attach one to each of the 3” x 21 3/4” pieces. Now you can screw in the back part of the table to the 3” x 21 3/4” pieces. So by now you should have the table top assembled, just not mounted to the leg assembly yet. So on the two 3” x 21 3/4” you should have; the front “L” shape, 9 3/4” space, then the back of the table with the support. Now, just take this and you can screw this to the leg assembly by screwing from underneath the leg assembly.

In the picture below you can see on the left you have the top of the table, a 9” spacer, the 3” x 21 3/4” piece and the top to the leg assembly.

This has been a great build to follow. Congratulations on a fine bench. This will be a great addition to the shop.

I built a similar bench with some modifications that I thought I would share for any future builders to consider. I mounted my bench on locking casters so I can move it when necessary. This has turned out to be practical and useful. I also installed T-Track for the planning beam, planning wedges and for accessories on the back rail. My major accessory so far has been a shop light . . . more to come in the future as I have time. I also plan to build a cabinet underneath the bench up ended up putting that on the back burner in favor of some other projects.

My planing wedges are leather lined and adjustable with T-bolts and star knobs.

To all that have contirbuted to this work bench and outher brojects ” I want to thank you All ””. Your creativity is beyound nastery. Thankyou to the original designer and the many crafsman that have added additiontional fantastiv addisional additional creativ to this wonder full bend. I am going to buid two differand lenghts. One for building Guitars an one for other project sizes.