November 15, 1999 | Insatiable CriticSwifty's: Gimme Shelter Glenn Bernbaum was Mortimer’s, of course, testy and rude, people say, but he kept the riffraff out and the prices low and he always had a table for Mumsy and moi. I can assure you that no member of Glenn’s salon refusé – certainly no restaurant critic…

November 8, 1999 | Insatiable CriticHowlIs there anything Mario Batali won't do with pig jowls and pasta? At the new Lupa, named for the Roman she-wolf, carnality still rules.

November 1, 1999 | Insatiable CriticEat to the BeatThey look like discos (one of them is a disco) yet serve major-league food: Crossbreeds Hush and Oriont redefine the dining room.

July 12, 1999 | Insatiable CriticAdagio for FinsCello's serenity and seafood dazzle have well-heeled gourmands in delirium;
earthier souls will wallow in the rustic abundance at Beacon.

July 12, 1999 | Insatiable CriticBeacon: Dinner in Waldy's BackyardThe late, lamented Rainbow's Waldy Malouf, the chef who fell from the sky, must have landed headfirst in the earth. How else to explain his swift switch from oysters Rockefeller and lobster thermidor to the rustic open-fire cooking of Beacon?

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable CriticFeret at LastDipping into France's nurturing "cuisine de maman" at two new brasseries and
a pair of bistros refreshes a gourmand's fusion-lashed soul.

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable CriticMaisonMaison strives valiantly to be French. Indeed, it has more applied Gallicmania than any other four bistros in town...

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable CriticPark BistroWhen founding chef Jean-Michel Diot left, Park Bistro listed into a slump. But now Philippe Roussel has claimed the spiffy little burgundy-and-white checkerboard kitchen, bringing with him his sunny herb greenery and the lush ways that won all those "Best Of" accolades for Chelsea Bistro & Bar.

June 21, 1999 | Insatiable CriticSecond Thyme AroundIn two old familiar spaces near Bloomingdale's, Cibi-Cibi courts the youth vote with excess decibels, while Latin sizzle is the draw at Bolivar.

May 24, 1999 | Insatiable CriticCat's Got Her Tongue Chelsea boys and bohos get a cozy new canteen on Tenth...

May 17, 1999 | Insatiable CriticHave Whisk, Will Travel At last, Jean-Louis Palladin has begun soothing his Gotham itch. But his new Palladin still needs work to satisfy our Jean-Louis itch.

May 10, 1999 | Insatiable CriticWhatever Happened to American Food?Sure, it was buried by fusion, scorned by ambitious chefs, and squeezed out by foreigners - but two impressive new restaurants, Coach House and Wild Blue, have raised the flag again, and our fussy critic salutes...

May 10, 1999 | Insatiable CriticOld Wine, New MoneyZoë, an old favorite in SoHo, gets a new chef, a new menu, and scary new prices -- but even tightwads may find themselves unzipping their wallets...

December 29, 1998 | Insatiable CriticChow, ManhattanJust when it seemed like the restaurant madness of the eighties was safely in remission, everyone and his dentist wants to play the game again. And one bistro simply isn’t enough. Finding the gems in a rubble of cubic zirconia is my job. When friends call for advice, here’s what I say...

December 28, 1998 | Insatiable CriticWhere to eat in 1999From fabulous French to Asian fusion, from brand-name bistros to secret passions, where to eat in 1999.

December 14, 1998 | Insatiable CriticEating by the NumbersWhaddaya want on your pizza? Peking duck, smoked salmon, and tandoori chicken at One3 in the Village prove it's a small world after all.