I took her out for a flight today, everything worked great, new esc has brake enabled. solid control rods were good. I noticed the tail (not elevator) is loose at the front edge ? it moves left and right quite a bit,screws are tight it is right at the tip where it sits on fuselage. i put tape on to hold it still today,but going to use glue or something to keep it there has anyone else seen this on theres ? I had the Go pro on my head but guess i didnt get it turned on correctly was very cold and windy !

Yep mine did too, the screws don't quite pull it up far enough. I laid a strip of spongey 2mm doublesided tape down before I screwed it up, solid now. Don't overscrew off course, soft screws.

the stock motor can perform very adequately IF you simply open up the air venting holes in the layers of the nose & motor mount that are not opened when the kit is delivered. Also add cooling air exit holes. Mine flies fine with it; (you can check my posting & photos back a few pages starting on page 163, post 2435.)

My stock ESC is also working fine once the cooling airflow is opened up & the extra heat shrink was cut away from certain areas on the ESC. The info on turning on the prop Brake on the stock ESC is also repeated within the last few pages following page 163. Since the setting tones are different than shown in an earlier video, I expect that the ESC has been upgraded / replaced with a different model than what was included in earlier kits. Bottom line- mine from the version III kit is performing fine to date; neither the motor or the ESC are showing more than slight warming at the end of a flight. And I'm flying slightly larger prop blades on my stock motor & ESC than what are included with the kit. So this reported weakness in the earlier versions of the Phoenix 2000 may have been improved upon.

(I did replace the stock kit servos before flying my Phoenix 2000; too many reports of sudden failure in flight for me to take a chance with them.)

the stock motor can perform very adequately IF you simply open up the air venting holes in the layers of the nose & motor mount that are not opened when the kit is delivered. Also add cooling air exit holes. Mine flies fine with it; (you can check my posting & photos back a few pages starting on page 163, post 2435.)

My stock ESC is also working fine once the cooling airflow is opened up & the extra heat shrink was cut away from certain areas on the ESC. The info on turning on the prop Brake on the stock ESC is also repeated within the last few pages following page 163. Since the setting tones are different than shown in an earlier video, I expect that the ESC has been upgraded / replaced with a different model than what was included in earlier kits. Bottom line- mine from the version III kit is performing fine to date; neither the motor or the ESC are showing more than slight warming at the end of a flight. And I'm flying slightly larger prop blades on my stock motor & ESC than what are included with the kit. So this reported weakness in the earlier versions of the Phoenix 2000 may have been improved upon.

(I did replace the stock kit servos before flying my Phoenix 2000; too many reports of sudden failure in flight for me to take a chance with them.)

VIKING

You know what i appreciate about your posts is they are informative without coming off as a know it all I will look back and do the vent holes,and yes sir i ended up gluing the forward part of stabilizer to fuse,there is no excuse for it to move like that and has got to cause the plane to move with it when it does A side note... I found that a hot air blow dryer take to the front of the canopy lets you curve it in quite nice so the prop no longer catches Now i just need to start from front and push it down and it clips on tight and snug ..

Hi
Have only ever flown a RC cessna, and am new to the hobby.
Would like some help in setting up my Phoenix. Am using Hitec optic 6 control, and would like to know what should be the maximum movement of the flaps, ailerons, rudder and elevator.
If someone is using the same Tx could they please tell me what settings they have used for their CROW function.

Not sure if I will see my Phoenix when its up in the air and wondered if its safe to iron on some bright red solar film patches under the wings, or would it damage the foam.

Hi
Have only ever flown a RC cessna, and am new to the hobby.
Would like some help in setting up my Phoenix. Am using Hitec optic 6 control, and would like to know what should be the maximum movement of the flaps, ailerons, rudder and elevator.
If someone is using the same Tx could they please tell me what settings they have used for their CROW function.

Not sure if I will see my Phoenix when its up in the air and wondered if its safe to iron on some bright red solar film patches under the wings, or would it damage the foam.

i paint several black stripes on bottom of all my wings. used acrylic latex enamel paint,no problems.as far as the flaps go i set mine so when they are down there is no binding of servos.

Hmm, 4s you say? I have got some 4s 2200mah's here that i have no use for at the moment, i'll give them a try! This thing on 3s is pretty quick so i can see that 4s is going to be fun!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastfwd

is the motor that was heating up the stock setup ? I have only had mine in the air for around 10 minutes but everything was cool to the touch,using a 45 amp esc with 6 amp sbec . So now im wondering if i need to put in some vent holes or what if stock setup is heating up ?

Yeah, i ditched the stock motor and esc after its 2nd flight as they were coming down super hot and smelling slightly burnt, and that was only using bursts of 15 seconds or less with a rest period between squirts of the throttle.

Im now using the 3639 750kv as suggested by mustflynow2 a little while ago and with the full carbon 13x7 folding prop it is great! Its quickly become one of my top 3 favourite planes with this setup. And as mustflynow2 just suggested i'll give it a crack on 4s this week sometime and let you all know my result.

I flew my Phoenix Evolution tonight with my leds on. I rearranged the lights some. I put the blue ones on the bottom leading edge and then had green led legs running down. So it was blue and green on the bottom of the wings with lights on top of the wings and lights running the length of the fuselage.

Plus - I had my first UFO report! A kid in a truck came down the road and got out. I heard the door slam and for a second I thought to myself "I hope it's not a county police officer" lol. Anyway, my brother talked to him and he said his Grand Pa saw my glider and also believes in UFO's and so he (grandson) came down to check it out. My brother exclaimed it's basically a flying styrofoam cooler with Christmas lights on it. lol.

I'm discovering there is no lift/wind at night. When I cut my motor my glider with all the lights and junk inside wants to drop and drop quick. I flew for more than ten minutes with the motor on. I tried cutting the motor and gliding but I could not glide for more than five seconds or so.

The ESC LVC kicked in too but luckily it happened near me. So I landed it OK. I've discovered I can get a good fifteen to twenty minutes in the day flying with the motor on 2/3 of the time and off 1/3 of the time. But at night I have to keep the motor running and that cuts my time down by a large amount.

No. The lights on the bottom of the wing stay on. The top too. But the fuselage has led lights that I can turn on and off from my dx6i. I purchased some leds with a controller from Hobbyking that has six or seven (or eight) different settings: Blue/green/white/flashing/etc... I have those lights running the length of the fuselage.