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DJM Drop Kit Installation On A 2007 Toyota Tacoma - Toyota Downs

Average Joe Gets Closer To Earth Thanks To DJM Suspension

Photography by Galen Armenta

Mini Truckin', December 01, 2008

As minitruckers we take pride in our rides and customizing them to match our personal tastes or interests. However, what happens when your truck goes under the knife for the 'bag job and body drop? How about body modifications or a sick paintjob. Don't forget about the interior or stereo work. It all comes down to either, you find a ride for weeks on end, or you find a daily driver that will get you around while your pride and joy undergoes it's modifications. But we are minitruckers and for some reason it runs in our blood that we drive a customized ride, even if it is our daily-driver. So, what can we do without shelling out thousands of dollars on a clean daily-driver? Instead of fabricating a custom suspension for your truck, a static drop is a simple and easy way to get a truck closer to earth without spending a ton of money.

With this in mind, DJM Suspension developed a complete line of hi-tech and properly engineered suspension components to give your mini the mild drop you desire. We wanted to see what these products were all about, so we headed over to Devious Customs in Riverside, California, to witness the install of a 3-inch DJM drop kit on a '07 Toyota Tacoma. For more information on this or other kits available, contact the companies listed in the Source box.

1. After the truck was placed securely on the lift, Cody removed the front wheels. This allowed him to remove the brakes caliper, tie rod, and swaybar.

1. After the truck was placed securely on the lift, Cody removed the front wheels. This al

2. Next, Cody removed the tie rod followed by the spindle itself. Our Toyota has a two-piece spindle so in order to separate the lower ball joint form the spindle we had to remove the two bolts securing the upper part of the spindle to the lower.

2. Next, Cody removed the tie rod followed by the spindle itself. Our Toyota has a two-pie

3. Once the spindle was out of the way, we removed the upper control arm. It was set aside because the factory ball joints will need to be installed into the new arms.

3. Once the spindle was out of the way, we removed the upper control arm. It was set aside

4. To take out the lower control arm (LCA) Cody removed the bolt holding the strut to the LCA along with the cam bolts.

4. To take out the lower control arm (LCA) Cody removed the bolt holding the strut to the

5. Before installing the new arms, we needed to remove the rubber boot covering the ball joint and the retaining clip. Then we could press the ball joints out of the factory arms and press them into the new arms. This is accomplished using a shop press.

5. Before installing the new arms, we needed to remove the rubber boot covering the ball j

(6 and 7) With the ball joints in the new control arms, we reused the retaining clip that keeps the ball joint from working itself out over time. Then the rubber boot was filled with grease and installed along with the retaining spring that holds it to the ball joint.

(6 and 7) With the ball joints in the new control arms, we reused the retaining clip that

7.

8. The final step before installing the arms on the truck, is to thread the zerk fittings into the arms.

8. The final step before installing the arms on the truck, is to thread the zerk fittings

9. Reinstalling the control arms is just the opposite of tear down. The alignment cam bolts are reinstalled but not tightened and the strut is bolted in. Then Cody installed the upper control arm and tightened the bolts down. We left the bottom arm bolts loose so after the wheels were back on the truck we could adjust the alignment to get it close enough to make a test drive and not destroy the tires.

9. Reinstalling the control arms is just the opposite of tear down. The alignment cam bolt

10. Next comes the lower part of the spindle. It's attached to the ball joint and secured, then the top half can be bolted to the lower portion of the spindle and torqued down to factory specs.

10. Next comes the lower part of the spindle. It's attached to the ball joint and secured,

11. Finishing off the front end, Cody reinstalled the tie rod, sway bar, rotor, brake caliper, and the wheel sensor. All castle nuts received new cotter pins, except the castle nut on the top control arm; it is a special cotter pin that could be reused.

12. Cody started off by supporting the rearend under the axle tubes, and also under the driveshaft, keeping the axle from rolling forward. Then he removed the rear shocks.

12. Cody started off by supporting the rearend under the axle tubes, and also under the dr

13. Next, Cody removed the factory U-bolts. These will not be used again as DJM has supplied longer ones in the kit.

13. Next, Cody removed the factory U-bolts. These will not be used again as DJM has suppli

14. Once the rearend is free from the leaf spring, the angled 4-inch lowering blocks were placed in between the leaf spring and the axle.

14. Once the rearend is free from the leaf spring, the angled 4-inch lowering blocks were

15. There is a pin on the top of the leaf spring pack, and one on the top of the lowering block. These pins are used to keep the rearend from sliding back and forth on the leaf spring, once in the proper location tighten the U-bolts.

15. There is a pin on the top of the leaf spring pack, and one on the top of the lowering

16. Finally, the replacement shocks that come with the kit are installed. Even though the mounting point is in the same location and the stock shocks will still fit it is recommended to change them out. These shocks have been valved specifically for a lowered application.

16. Finally, the replacement shocks that come with the kit are installed. Even though the

**Special note: the DJM kit comes with a C-notch that we opted not to install. If we were planning to use the bed to haul heavy loads we would install the C-notch for the extra clearance to keep the axle from hitting the bottom of the frame.

**Special note: the DJM kit comes with a C-notch that we opted not to install. If we were