This standard-bearer for moderately priced California sparkling wine impresses year after year. Those sensitive to sweetness will note a discernible dosage, making the wine a bit out of step as sparkling wines have become drier over recent years. Yet it is impeccably balanced and refreshing, with flavors of citrus and yeast, perfect for sipping on the deck, if I had a deck.
Eric Asimov's Summer's Winners: 20 Wines for $20 NYTimes.com