On a recent evening, Mrs. Kakoutis, dressed in black and fighting tears, looked through old vacation photos showing her husband with some of the doctors in happier times, smiling and dancing at tavernas.

Ashore, besides traipsing through long lines of shops selling local handicrafts and trinkets, tourists pack dozens of tavernas offering traditional Cypriot "meze" dishes -- seafood or meat plates with vegetables, Halloumi cheese, pita breads and olives on the side, typically washed down with a local spirit known as Zivania.