While most consumers might not think about it, the size of a cheese can be critical.

Cameo, a bloomy-rind Camembert-style goat's milk cheese from Sonoma's Redwood Hill Farm, bears more than a passing resemblance to Camellia, one of the farm's early products, but weighs twice as much (8 ounces versus 4) and is more dressed up, with a sprig of lemon verbena and a sprinkling of pink peppercorns on top.

The two cheeses originate from the same curd, says Redwood Hill proprietor Jennifer Bice. But for some retailers, Cameo, which premiered about 18 months ago, creates issues.

Many shoppers don't want a whole one, and at peak ripeness, the interior may slump if the cheese is cut. If the wheel is under-ripe when cut, it won't ripen further.

If you do purchase the cheese already cut, enjoy it that day. It suffers in plastic film. (The clear wrap that Redwood Hill uses to protect the whole wheel is porous so the wheel can continue to ripen.)

Despite being precut, the piece I purchased was in great shape: supple and silky inside, with a mushroom aroma and no hint of ammonia.

A pleasing peppery scent permeated the interior, although the lemon verbena left no trace. I expected some goaty tang, but the flavor was mild, almost sweet. I even enjoyed the rind.

A ripe Cameo will give when probed in the center, like a ripe avocado. The bloomy rind should be white, not rusty or brown, which means the cheese is probably heading south. But if you like more pronounced flavor, don't refuse a wheel with a little browning on the edges. Cameo pairs well with sparkling wine and with a moderately intense Pinot Noir.

Cameo, like Camellia, is a farmstead cheese, made with milk from Redwood Hill's 300 goats. These lucky goats reside at the country's first certified-humane goat dairy.

Look for the cheese at Bi-Rite Market, Rainbow Grocery, Cheese Plus, Other Avenues, Falletti Foods and Cowgirl Creamery in San Francisco; Woodlands Market in Kentfield; at Oxbow Cheese Merchant in Napa; Sunshine Foods in St. Helena; and some Whole Foods.

Next up: Brie l'Original from France.

Janet Fletcher teaches cheese-appreciation classes and is the author of "Cheese & Wine." Go to janetfletcher.com for information.