attached pics of the FWE ive made with the sole intention of experimenting with Carburated fuel delivery. the pics are as "just made" and the intake will be changing once ive established it runs "as is".

thanks for the specs Larry and to Eric and Steve for pioneering this engine, i think it will be ideal for the type of experiments (and hopefully not too loud!) i have in mind.
The engine is all stainless steel because i had some handy.

Stainless really is a pain in the ass to get it exactly the way you want it, the aluminum should work nicely, although I have noticed that there is such a thing as too much flare on these small engines. I think some of steves engines might border on having a little too much flare, some of mine border on having none or not enough. The goldylocks of intakes really varies on the diameter of the intake. I just found a steel funnel I had laying around, starting about 5/8" id and going out to about 6. I am tempted to stick it on the engine just for kicks.

Good luck,
Eric

Talking like a pirate does not qualify as experience, this should be common sense, as pirates have little real life experience in anything other than smelling bad, and contracting venereal diseases

its all based on your experiments mate but the only size tube i had handy was 17mm i/d, its just over 100mm long (easier to cut it down than add length) then there's the alloy flare again outrageously plagerised from you.the alloy flare itself is one i made earlier for a reynst pot, i just bored it out to suit in the lathe.
Next add some gas/fuel supply and see how it goes.
i will film it as soon as i can and pass on any useful info ref carburation as promised.

Yes i have seen your FWE with the flare, its running really nice in the pics i saw, is there much blast coming out of the front?.
Nick

Hi Mike, the exhaust ID is 29mm.
i had a word with Graham by phone earlier on, i made the intake deliberately too long (easier to cut down than add on)same with the tail pipe. We reckon the intake is currently about 10mm too long, 5ins witha hacksaw should cure that! but i have to wait until the "dust settles" before i fire it up again :-)
Hope to have some time off mid week which would be ideal for another test.

its all based on your experiments mate but the only size tube i had handy was 17mm i/d, its just over 100mm long (easier to cut it down than add length) then there's the alloy flare again outrageously plagerised from you.the alloy flare itself is one i made earlier for a reynst pot, i just bored it out to suit in the lathe.
Next add some gas/fuel supply and see how it goes.
i will film it as soon as i can and pass on any useful info ref carburation as promised.

Yes i have seen your FWE with the flare, its running really nice in the pics i saw, is there much blast coming out of the front?.
Nick

I love being "outrageously plagerised" since it must mean that I'm doing something right!

anyway, in the video it looked like the engine just needed a little bit more fuel and then it would have caught. It also occured to me that since you used a slightly wider ID (17mm vs 15mm) that lengthening the intake rather then chopping it might yield better results. you might try sliding the intake flare out about 5mm and see what happens.

the blast from my intake feels a bit stronger then it did when I had the original sheet metal flare on it. The length was originally 114mm and now it is about 104mm. I would say that the blast is now at least double what the long version was producing. Fuel consumption is also up a bit, and I can only assume that thrust has increased also.

It also occured to me that since you used a slightly wider ID (17mm vs 15mm) that lengthening the intake rather then chopping it might yield better results. you might try sliding the intake flare out about 5mm and see what happens.

Good idea, i will try that before i chop anything up.

Hi Bruno,
After this is running "as is" i want to try carbing it, basically i plan to "T" off the intake so that there is a secondary induction path into the motor, i want to carburate off that "T" a oneway valve/reed block is essential to prevent the backflow.