A taste of St Jean-de-Luz, the 'other' Basque Country foodie favourite

When people speak of the Basque Country, it is the slither of land in northern Spain, and the cities of Bilbao and San Sebastián that come to mind.

Yet that’s just half the story. For the Basque region stretches on further north, straddling the border which separates Spain and France.

This often-overlooked French corner is otherwise known as the Pyrénées-Atlantiques - or the ‘Northern Basque Country’ - and while the two regions are joined by a fierce loyalty over their autonomous identity, food marks the biggest difference.

To the sea: By the 19th Century, elegant St Jean-de-Luz was one of those places 'to be seen'

In San Sebastián, for example, you can expect to be served the theatrical (and alcoholic) Txakoli from a height, while gorging on a selection of early evening pintxos (just don't call them tapas).

Over the French border, St Jean-de-Luz plays host to a completely different display of food.

It's the destination of choice for those seeking out the culinary skills of the northern Basque people - you just need to know what to eat and where to go...

The speciality: Night of the Sardine

'La Nuit de la Sardine' occurs twice throughout the summer, dedicated to the abundant ocean dweller, while July sees tuna crowned as the ‘King of Fish’, celebrated by late-night dancing, singing and restaurants serving but one dish: griddled local tuna.

Other highlights include chistorra, a fast-cure garlic and paprika-flavoured sausage, and salmis de palombes, pigeon breasts cooked with wine-soaked Bayonne ham.

Colourful concoction: Poulet Basquaise is one delicious regional dish to share with friends

The almond-flavoured stalwart, le gâteau Basque, is another, and it perfectly accompanies a glass of Irouléguy from one of France’s tiniest controlled designation of origin regions, the Domaine Ilarria.

There are also an abundant number of stews, hot pots and soups, a weakness for rabbit, veal, salted air-dried ham, duck meat, shellfish and a lot of chocolate.

Where to eat

Budget: And that’s just what you’re served until the arrival of St Jean Pied de Port, a salt cod dish said to have originated in the St Jean-de-Luz area as the food of choice for seafaring merchants who stopped here for nutritional breaks.

Treats on the terrace: The view from La Réserve is enough to fire the appetite

The restaurant only serves lunch,
which makes sense, as it keeps the same hours as the adjacent fish
market which is always in raucous full flow.

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Mid-range: On Rue Mademoiselle Etcheto, head for Chez Pablo. There are no bookings and it’s unmistakeably Basque. Go for steaming hot garbure (a thick ham and vegetable stew) or settle for the local cheese, ossau-iraty, fresh grapes, and a glass of port.

Or, share a poulet Basquaise, a chicken pot roast made with
the abundant use of Espelette powder, a local variety of chili pepper.

RISING STAR: A NEW FOODIE WAVE

One of St Jean-de-Luz’s most accomplished
surfers is also the city’s most skilful chef.

Fabrice Idiart (pictured) is still
under 30, yet is at the helm of the Ilura kitchen at La Réserve, where
his gâteau Basque and tarte aux fraises (both recipes his grandmother
has passed down that he refuses to divulge) have become firm favourites
among locals and returning guests.

He explains: 'When I cook, I don’t feel as though
I’m at work but being Basque, I serve what I like
to eat and the food that I have always been fed myself. I look at the
sea and I know there’s fish in there for me. I look at my old cookbooks,
and I know there are hundreds of Basque recipes handed down by
relatives. There’s nothing better than carrying on something that so
many have done before in the past.'

Splash out: Overlooking the Bay of Biscay and the Spanish Landes coast, the Groupe Floirat-owned La Réserve is most people’s hotel of choice when staying in St Jean-de-Luz. Restaurant llura is its pièce de resistance.

Influences from nearby Biarritz, Anglet and Bayonne come together in one heady Basque mix. Indulge in axoa de veau (a hearty veal dish) ttoro (a fish soup usually made with local conger eel, coley, langoustine, mussels and hake), txangurro, or Basque spider crab and baskets of local strawberries served with liquorice.