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Only if you have no problems with cooling system. I remember in the summer at 85-90C in traffic I saw 110c!!!! Well and my tranny started acting up really bad, i thought tranny died. Once I turned on my heater on max temp went to 105 and tranny got fixed I saw some ppl here complaining about jerky tranny when going uphills and in traffic, but all is good on freeway. So......

I picked up four new CPS's today. 4 new o-rings. No matter how much oil, grease, I couldn't get them on with the new o-rings.. only one.. the rest I didn't want to break.. I even started bolting one down to see if it would seat, and it got really tight and still no seating so I backed out.. Anyway, I have been too busy to go on a real test drive, but I did run down the street a mile or so to pick up a part and as soon as I got on the road and just gave it normal gas I could feel the difference.. The car just feels lighter, less throttle to get same performance type thing.. and I haven't even gotten on it yet.. trans shifts different but not by much, def. feels like a tighter shift.. Will give a complete update later. About to go to a client's office will be on the freeway. Anyway, I doubt this has anything to do with heat, but for the hell of it I will monitor temps and see if timing could be causing anything.

I picked up four new CPS's today. 4 new o-rings. No matter how much oil, grease, I couldn't get them on with the new o-rings.. only one.. the rest I didn't want to break.. I even started bolting one down to see if it would seat, and it got really tight and still no seating so I backed out.. Anyway, I have been too busy to go on a real test drive, but I did run down the street a mile or so to pick up a part and as soon as I got on the road and just gave it normal gas I could feel the difference.. The car just feels lighter, less throttle to get same performance type thing.. and I haven't even gotten on it yet.. trans shifts different but not by much, def. feels like a tighter shift.. Will give a complete update later. About to go to a client's office will be on the freeway. Anyway, I doubt this has anything to do with heat, but for the hell of it I will monitor temps and see if timing could be causing anything.

Could you do me a favor & take a couple pics of what parts you are refering to under the hood ?
I am a little lost now , the cps are on the valve covers & have nothing to do with coolant
( as far as I know ) why change them ?

Sorry for the questions , I guess I should go back & try to catch up on this topic ...

Could you do me a favor & take a couple pics of what parts you are refering to under the hood ?
I am a little lost now , the cps are on the valve covers & have nothing to do with coolant
( as far as I know ) why change them ?

Sorry for the questions , I guess I should go back & try to catch up on this topic ...

Iirc it was kinda off topic and doesn't have anything to do with cooling system. He wanted to replace them (cps) and see if performance and smoothness would restore at all and maybe would improve his temp some how.

Iirc it was kinda off topic and doesn't have anything to do with cooling system. He wanted to replace them (cps) and see if performance and smoothness would restore at all and maybe would improve his temp some how.

That is correct. I have been VERY interested in the findings on the post "I found the BMW secret" regarding the VANOS and timing issues. Another member posted that he had a big performance loss and changed his sensors from exhaust to intake on only one bank and gained a big chunk of power.. I know it doesn't have much to do with cooling, but I was very interested to see if that would hold true for my car, as it felt like it could be lacking in power (My S430 has same size motor but less power and one less gear and seemed faster).. I also knew if timing was way off it could even effect heat..

Car has a very noticeable increase in power now, feels way better and when moving it is even cooler. On freeway temps used to be 103 to 105, and now even in the hot day are at 100/101 steady. Unfortunately when coming to a stop, while it takes longer to heat up it does go back to 107/108 while stopped.. But I have confirmed my fan is only working on it's lowest speed so that is what I think is causing my heat issue.

That is correct. I have been VERY interested in the findings on the post "I found the BMW secret" regarding the VANOS and timing issues. Another member posted that he had a big performance loss and changed his sensors from exhaust to intake on only one bank and gained a big chunk of power.. I know it doesn't have much to do with cooling, but I was very interested to see if that would hold true for my car, as it felt like it could be lacking in power (My S430 has same size motor but less power and one less gear and seemed faster).. I also knew if timing was way off it could even effect heat..

Car has a very noticeable increase in power now, feels way better and when moving it is even cooler. On freeway temps used to be 103 to 105, and now even in the hot day are at 100/101 steady. Unfortunately when coming to a stop, while it takes longer to heat up it does go back to 107/108 while stopped.. But I have confirmed my fan is only working on it's lowest speed so that is what I think is causing my heat issue.

Does your fan run when you are at idle and hit 105-107? My fan really never turns on high when my car hits these temps....I think it should. I am going to replace sensors first then might replace the fan with a high flow fan.

Does your fan run when you are at idle and hit 105-107? My fan really never turns on high when my car hits these temps....I think it should. I am going to replace sensors first then might replace the fan with a high flow fan.

I hear it kick on, but it sounds like it's going right back off.. I have been under the hood before and it's been on around 107c but it's not blowing hard at all.. I didn't know if it was running until I looked into it to see the blades.

I hear it kick on, but it sounds like it's going right back off.. I have been under the hood before and it's been on around 107c but it's not blowing hard at all.. I didn't know if it was running until I looked into it to see the blades.

When mine does come on it is very slow....when i test it with INPA it runs very fast and strong.

When mine does come on it is very slow....when i test it with INPA it runs very fast and strong.

Can your phone take movies? I am sorry to ask you to put such effort, but if you have the time, would you be able to take a clip of your fan running from INPA test? I would love to compare it to what mine is doing, and we may just prove these fans are wearing out and maybe in different stages of wear.. I know when I take a clip from my phone I can add it to Youtube right from the phone in under a minute. If it's too time consuming I completely understand.. but my fan doesn't run very fast or strong TO ME on INPA, and I am just curious to see what your fan is running like at that test.

Don't worry cmpro will replace everything off topic if cam sensors ever go bad you get error codes. It's a simple electromagnetic sensor which basically sends impulse every time your camshaft makes a full turn, so DME knows when to fire up your spark plugs and injectors. The output is either 0 or 1.

Can your phone take movies? I am sorry to ask you to put such effort, but if you have the time, would you be able to take a clip of your fan running from INPA test? I would love to compare it to what mine is doing, and we may just prove these fans are wearing out and maybe in different stages of wear.. I know when I take a clip from my phone I can add it to Youtube right from the phone in under a minute. If it's too time consuming I completely understand.. but my fan doesn't run very fast or strong TO ME on INPA, and I am just curious to see what your fan is running like at that test.

Thanks

It is 5 hours later where I live than where you are I think. Going to bed now. I will try to video it after work tomorrow.

Ok guys here is some nice update:
I put some ultraviolet liquid in my coolant and guess what?
Found a spot in the rear of the engine coming from valley pan!!! At least valley pan-very tiny spot.
Wheep hole looks clean but I'll try to run it more.
No way you can find it without this ultraviolet additive.
Get a uv flashlight and this is the most accurate way to find a leak!!
So if you say nothing leaks-check again but don't trust your eyes bc tiny coolant evaporates quick from 105 engine. So instead of thinking you don't have a leak better make sure you don't have it (its for cmpro guy)

Don't worry cmpro will replace everything off topic if cam sensors ever go bad you get error codes. It's a simple electromagnetic sensor which basically sends impulse every time your camshaft makes a full turn, so DME knows when to fire up your spark plugs and injectors. The output is either 0 or 1.

Best $140 I spent yet.. like the other guy on the post regarding this, I have noticed a very nice power increase.. His car had lost power to the point where he clearly had a problem, yet no check engine light.. he replaced his sensors on just one bank and it resolved his issue and restored his power.. I don't care what anyone says about these sensors.. The original ones are way different then the new ones, which are re-designed and the sensor part is much bigger. I noticed a very nice increase.. car is way more responsive when lightly hitting throttle.. still haven't really romped on it, but I am sure I will feel difference there too..

Ok guys here is some nice update:
I put some ultraviolet liquid in my coolant and guess what?
Found a spot in the rear of the engine coming from valley pan!!! At least valley pan-very tiny spot.
Wheep hole looks clean but I'll try to run it more.
No way you can find it without this ultraviolet additive.
Get a uv flashlight and this is the most accurate way to find a leak!!
So if you say nothing leaks-check again but don't trust your eyes bc tiny coolant evaporates quick from 105 engine. So instead of thinking you don't have a leak better make sure you don't have it (its for cmpro guy)

SF are you losing coolant? This is very interesting.. did you remove the intake to see back of engine? Where can I get this fluid? The reason I don't think I have an issue is because I can park my car.. come back 6 hours later when it's still a little warm but pretty cool, open cap and it will release pressure, I can then close it come back the next morning open cap again and AGAIN get a little pressure release.. so I am def. holding pressure well.. I would think a leak wouldn't allow that to happen, but if it's on the engine I really don't know, though I would think the whole circuit would have to be sealed to retain pressure like that.. again, are you losing coolant? Clearly you must be.. I am not losing any.. well if I am it's not enough to notice missing from expansion.. though I know small oil leaks can take ages to show up on dip stick..

best $140 i spent yet.. Like the other guy on the post regarding this, i have noticed a very nice power increase.. His car had lost power to the point where he clearly had a problem, yet no check engine light.. He replaced his sensors on just one bank and it resolved his issue and restored his power.. I don't care what anyone says about these sensors.. The original ones are way different then the new ones, which are re-designed and the sensor part is much bigger. I noticed a very nice increase.. Car is way more responsive when lightly hitting throttle.. Still haven't really romped on it, but i am sure i will feel difference there too..

SF are you losing coolant? This is very interesting.. did you remove the intake to see back of engine? Where can I get this fluid? The reason I don't think I have an issue is because I can park my car.. come back 6 hours later when it's still a little warm but pretty cool, open cap and it will release pressure, I can then close it come back the next morning open cap again and AGAIN get a little pressure release.. so I am def. holding pressure well.. I would think a leak wouldn't allow that to happen, but if it's on the engine I really don't know, though I would think the whole circuit would have to be sealed to retain pressure like that.. again, are you losing coolant? Clearly you must be.. I am not losing any.. well if I am it's not enough to notice missing from expansion.. though I know small oil leaks can take ages to show up on dip stick..

No i wasn't loosing any coolant after I replaced that bleeding hose. Nothing visible and in the morning it always made that noise when I removed my coolant cap. No I didn't remove the intake, i took that metal firewall cover and was able to clb there so I could see the rear of the engine.
Also saw some spots when my mechanic lifted the car.
Btw I replaced cam sensors long time ago bc I saw oil in those connectors- idk didn't notice any difference, but I replaced it only on driver side, where I saw oil.
Weird that those sensors are so bad that oil leaks through in there even though there is no oil pressure on valve covers. Did you have oil inside your old ones??

About cooking system: it leaks only when your car is hot!!! So when it cools down like to 80C there is no leaks and pressure stays there- it's still enough pressure to make "puff" in the morning.
So it would be more accurate to pressure test it at 105C, isn't it?? Am wrong?

No i wasn't loosing any coolant after I replaced that bleeding hose. Nothing visible and in the morning it always made that noise when I removed my coolant cap. No I didn't remove the intake, i took that metal firewall cover and was able to clb there so I could see the rear of the engine.
Also saw some spots when my mechanic lifted the car.
Btw I replaced cam sensors long time ago bc I saw oil in those connectors- idk didn't notice any difference, but I replaced it only on driver side, where I saw oil.
Weird that those sensors are so bad that oil leaks through in there even though there is no oil pressure on valve covers. Did you have oil inside your old ones??

About cooking system: it leaks only when your car is hot!!! So when it cools down like to 80C there is no leaks and pressure stays there- it's still enough pressure to make "puff" in the morning.
So it would be more accurate to pressure test it at 105C, isn't it?? Am wrong?

Best $140 I spent yet.. like the other guy on the post regarding this, I have noticed a very nice power increase.. His car had lost power to the point where he clearly had a problem, yet no check engine light.. he replaced his sensors on just one bank and it resolved his issue and restored his power.. I don't care what anyone says about these sensors.. The original ones are way different then the new ones, which are re-designed and the sensor part is much bigger. I noticed a very nice increase.. car is way more responsive when lightly hitting throttle.. still haven't really romped on it, but I am sure I will feel difference there too..

sorry I should have been more specific when I asked you for pic's .
I wanted to compare your old 1's to the new 1's to see the difference
your talking about .