A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: Model Lindsey Wixson walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images) less

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: Model Lindsey Wixson walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven ... more

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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The beauty story was completed with side-swept, super volumized hair by Odile Gilbert for John Frieda with a Daphne Guinness zebra-striped extension looped around.

The beauty story was completed with side-swept, super volumized hair by Odile Gilbert for John Frieda with a Daphne Guinness zebra-striped extension looped around.

Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Rodarte fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NARS makeup artist James Kaliardos used Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyeliner and Black Valley Eye Paint started below the eye, not at the corner, but at the lash line itself with a slight Sunset Strip smear. Lips were a subtle nude tone with Biscayne Park Satin Lip Pencil as a base and Floralies Satin Lip Pencil added over. less

NARS makeup artist James Kaliardos used Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyeliner and Black Valley Eye Paint started below the eye, not at the corner, but at the lash line itself with a slight Sunset Strip smear. ... more

Photo: David X Prutting/BFAnyc.com

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A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City.

A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City.

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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The runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show .

The runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show .

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images) less

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty ... more

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images) less

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty ... more

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Model Chanel Iman walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Model Chanel Iman walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show.

A model walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show.

Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Photo: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

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Model Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Model Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Oscar De La Renta fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 on September 10, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

Rodarte’s Spring 2014 L.A. girl presented a face by NARS very different from the makeup team’s barely there look for Alexander Wang on Saturday. For makeup artist James Kaliardos, wild and roughened brows (again with Oural Brow Gel) remained key but this time the eye itself told the story: specifically the liner (Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyeliner and Black Valley Eye Paint) which started below the eye, not at the corner, but at the lash line itself with a slight Sunset Strip smear. Lips were a subtle nude tone with Biscayne Park Satin Lip Pencil as a base and Floralies Satin Lip Pencil added over. To finish the look, Kaliardos added dabs of contour on the cheeks with new NARS Multiples layering new spring shades Anguilla and Altai. The result was a face referencing the Southern California glamor of the Viper Room party scene as much as the clothes themselves. The beauty story was completed with side-swept, super volumized hair by Odile Gilbert for John Frieda with a Daphne Guinness zebra striped extension looped around and tortoise nails by Tracylee for Sally Hansen using a makeup sponge applicator and the new Rodarte/Sally Hansen collaboration colors Clay and Cinnamon (available in March) finished with a glossy topcoat.

The Rodarte collection itself captures a very specific moment in the current ’90s revival cycle: a Hollywood-meets-South Beach take on everything from Versace’s “Rock and Royalty” to touches of B-Girl style. The slanted midriff-baring tops layered with fringe, vests worn with bustier sex appeal, animal prints, ruffled skirts (slit high), studded belts and even South Central styled top buttoned flannel were a very fully realized collection bound to be as controversial as Hedi Slimane’s Fall 2013 take on Courtney Love and Seattle grunge. Designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy have never shied away from the most fully realized of visions, regardless of critics.

“Utterly devoid of compromise,” was the assessment San Francisco’s own Christine Suppes (who attended the Chelsea show and sat with photographer Bruce Weber and Jeffery Kalinsky of Jeffery’s) offered after the collection’s debut. “The presentation was flawless as always. It’s really quite different from what’s being presented on the runways this season.” While Los Angeles is frequently cited as a key reference point for the Pasadena reared Mulleavys (even by the sisters themselves) Suppes saw another city in the collection’s leopard and fringe. “It was very Saint Tropez: Before that look came to Los Angeles it originated in Saint Tropez in the ’70s. Maybe it was conscious, maybe it was unconscious, but for me the girls were having a dialogue with the master, Yves Saint Laurent. The ruffles, the fringe, the gold, the touches of ‘Le Smoking:’ it has a great modern femininity. Rodarte is every fashionable woman’s best friend.”

Suits, both athletically influenced and rockabilly zoot in nature, were in at Marc by Marc Jacobs for both men and women. Pointed lapels, reflective jumpsuits (suits of another type), takes on the “Members Only” jacket, sparkling star and dizzying op-art patterns were a fun look ahead to summer and a look back at a kind of juvenile high school nostalgia that knew no one specific era. Reference points went from fifties to eighties and were tied together with an excess of shine (satin jackets, lapels, dresses) and reflective materials. Standout looks include black and white satin opt art dresses, satin and reflective bomber jackets for him and different takes on powdery blue suits for both sexes.

Fans of Oscar de la Renta (and in the Bay Area, there are many) are sure to be pleased by the lightness and femininity of his latest collection, done up in peachy-pinks, pale greens, and other pastels, with some graphic black and white and leopard print tossed in for good measure. De la Renta likes to make women look pretty, but the mastery of his tailoring is a hallmark, and the details of couture in his ready-to-wear are always apparent in the applique, lace and embroidery. Leave the heavy-handed industrial look to another designer. Even a full-length gown with reams of fabric comes across as a frothy confection, in his hands. De la Renta is beyond the need to reference past decades or pull from his 1990s archive to be on trend. The designer and his clientele maintain an eternal aesthetic rarely tied to any one decade or cycle of nostalgia.