This article was originally circulating the internet as
the "Blueflame" text. I have not edited any of the content, but
merely present it as it was. I dont endorse it, nor vouch for its contents
accuracy. Tony

****************************************************************

How to brew your own booze
(Formerly "FACTS, FANCY AND OTHERWISE")
It is well-known that the making of intoxicating beverages is as
old as recorded history, and probably a great deal older. In this
treatise, we wish to present the easiest method to make a
`produce' that is both safe and pleasant to consume. The goal,
naturally, is ethyl alcohol, or C2H5OH; the only base or stock
from which good drinking whisky and other liquor is made. In
fact, ethyl alcohol rapidly oxidises in the body to carbon
dioxide and water, and no cumulative effect occurs. We will
attempt in this article to combine the most useful chemical and
technological information with `homespun' procedures, as well as
trying to keep the data simple and understandable. The text, by
the way, is "Chemistry and Technology of Wines and Liquors" by
Herstein and Jacobs (excerpts from this book are within quotation
marks).

General Conditions of Alcoholic Fermentation

Fermentable sugar, water, the presence of a ferment (yeast) and a
favourable temperature, usually between 75 F - 85 F and NEVER
over 90 F, are inescapable requirements. Concentration of sugar
(2 lbs in 1 imperial gallon) and yeast and the acidity or pH of
the fermentation mash are of great importance. The pH range is
usually 4.0 to 4.5.
page 2

Rate of Fermentation

The rate of fermentation depends chiefly on the temperature and
the CONCENTRATION of yeast. The rate of fermentation is twice as
fast at 95 F as at 77 F. "However, the antolysis (decomposition
of the yeast) is favoured by higher temperatures, and the rate of
UNDESIRABLE by-processes increased; hence, it is usual to set
90 F as the upper limit." (In other words, it is definite that
the higher we go above 90 F, your probable loss of yield of
alcohol will be from about 25% to 50% because yeast cells die, as
well as undesirable products increasing at higher temperatures.)

Alcoholic Yield and By-products of Fermentation

[1] The overall chemical equation of the conversion of sugar to
alcohol is:

[4] Very little methyl alcohol is found in grape wine, about
0 15%. Methyl alcohol is NOT produced by the fermentation of
pure sugar, its sole source appears to be the hydrolysis of
pectins. Pectins are found in grapes, commercial orange
juice and other fruits. The addition of several cans of
orange juice is not necessary and may, in fact, increase
methyl alcohol content. It is far safer to use a chemical
`booster' such as ammonium phosphate-dibasic, or a close
substitute containing nitrogen and phosphate. Calgon water
softener is also a fair substitute. Perhaps we should
explain that the reason for adding an ingredient to the
sugar, water and yeast mix is solely for the yeast to have
`food' in order to `work' properly. It has been established
that yeast needs nitrogen, phosphate and potassium for
`food', but only in very small proportions. In other words,
the ammonium phosphate-dibasic has the nitrogen and
phosphate, and the raw water has the potassium.

The Basic Batch

There are a great many ferments or batches, and trying to
catalogue them in all varieties would be a tremendous task;
therefore, we will discuss only a `basic' ferment that proves
itself reliable and gives optimum results time after time. Keep
in mind that it is only possible to produce a certain per cent of
alcohol, 9% to 16% by volume, depending on what type of yeast you
use (at the right temperatures), regardless of `pet' additions
such as molasses, corn sugar, cornmeal, wheat, large quantities
of juices, etc. Therefore the `basic' ferment saves money.

[2] One cup of baker's yeast. If this large amount causes raised
eyebrows, read over "Rate of Fermentation", page 3, again.
Also, according to the text, yeasts multiply most rapidly in
the presence of a supply of air; however, by using a large
amount of yeast at the start (one cup per five gallon mix)
it is not necessary to start a culture of sugar-water-yeast
and later add this mixture to the batch.

[3] One teaspoon of ammonium phosphate-dibasic, or, as explained
in [4] under "Alcoholic Yield and By-products of
Fermentation", page 3, a close substitute. The addition of
this chemical booster will shorten the time the batch works.

page 4

[4] After the above items have been put into the mash container,
fill the container to the 5 gallon mark. THE BEST METHOD OF
ELIMINATING UNWANTED OXYGEN AFTER THE REACTION HAS STARTED
IS TO STOPPER THE CONTAINER AND LEAD A HOSE OR TUBE FROM THE
CONTAINER TO A CAN OR BOTTLE FILLED WITH WATER. This allows
the carbon dioxide gas to bubble off through the water,
thereby preventing oxygen from entering the container,
otherwise, if the ferment stands too long without an
adequate `check valve', a vinegar process could start
turning the mix sour.

[5] As stated under "General Conditions of Alcoholic
Fermentation", page 2, and "Rate of Fermentation", page 3,
temperature control of the ferment is very important. Keep
your batch within the 75 F - 85 F range and never over 90 F.

[6] Up to now, if the steps have been faithfully followed, your
mix will stop working in about 6 to 9 days. Although the
ferment might stop working in this time estimate, it takes
several days more for the batch to settle. The best practice
is to keep two or three batches in the various working
stages so that you can allow the ferment to clear up or
settle before running. Apparently, although this point is
not covered in the text, the longer a stoppered batch `sits'
up to a certain time limit, the better the yield. The reason
the mix stops working is that the higher the percentage of
alcohol in your batch, the more yeast cells die until the
alcoholic content is so high that all yeast cells die, and
your mix stops working. Baker's yeast yields around 9% to
10% alcohol, wine yeast, on the other hand, yields 14% to
16%, because wine yeast has a greater tolerance for alcohol.
Therefore a cup of baker's yeast (dry) for each 10 lbs of
refined sugar is about the right concentration of yeast for
our purpose. We are also reasonably sure that the distilled
product from a sugar-water-yeast-chemical booster ferment
will contain only ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide and
distilled water at the end of a four-run process as
described in this article.

We make this statement even though it is contrary to the
facts as set forth in "Alcoholic Yield and By-products of
Fermentation", but keep in mind that we said `reasonably
sure', and it only deals with the fermentation process,
whereas our statement concerns the product after the four-
run distillation process.

page 5

Distillation Theory

A simple definition of distillation is: the separation of the
components of a mixture by partial vaporisation of a mixture and
the separate recovery of the vapour and the residue; i.e.
distillation is a method of separation and concentration, based
on differences in volatility. The apparatus in which this process
is carried on is called a STILL, of which the essential parts
are:

[1] The kettle in which vaporisation is effected.
[2] The connecting tube which conveys the vapour to the
condenser.
[3] The condenser where the vapours are re-liquified.
[4] The receiver in which the distillate is collected.

Modifications involving the addition of other parts to the still
are introduced for various purposes such as conservation of heat
and to effect rectification. The condensed vapours, returning to
accomplish rectification, are called reflux. In other words, a
simple distillation is a means of separating a volatile liquid
from a non-volatile residue. A fractional distillation is a means
of separating liquids of different volatility. Fractional
distillation rests on the fact that no two liquids of different
chemical composition have the same vapour pressure at all
temperatures, nor very often the same boiling point. However,
every liquid has a definite vapour pressure at any given
temperature. The various types of stills may be classified as:
Pot stills; Coffey or Patent stills; Vat stills; and Continuous
stills.

Cleaning the Still

There are too many variations of the four types of still in our
interesting hobby to attempt an explanation of each `cooker', but
our chief worry, regardless of type, is cleanliness and the
prevention of accidents and fires.

Keeping a clean still is only common sense, and is greatly
simplified if your cleaning begins immediately after the last run
while the metal is warm. Use water to wash out all parts and keep
the kettle well-scrubbed. Do not use soap, as it might impart a
disagreeable taste to your product. It is necessary to supplement
the plain water rinse by establishing the following cleaning
practice at least once a month:

page 6

Dissolve cup of salt in about 16 oz of vinegar and
pour this solution back and forth through the tubing
several times, then rinse thoroughly with water.

This procedure is all that is necessary for the pot still, but
the reflux types need special attention to the cleaning of the
reflux chamber and the `marbles', helices, etc.

Safety Precautions in Distillation

The home distillation of alcohol CAN be either very hazardous or
reasonably safe, depending upon the degree of care taken.
Unfortunately, accidents have occurred resulting in burns to
people and destruction of property. These accidents can be well
summed-up in General "Hap" Arnold's message, in which we have
substituted the word `distilling' for `flying'. "DISTILLING IS
NOT INHERENTLY DANGEROUS, BUT, LIKE THE SEA, IT IS TERRIBLY
UNFORGIVING OF CARELESSNESS, INCAPACITY OR NEGLECT."

In this discussion the unsafe practices which produce the
majority of all distilling accidents are described and the proper
method of operation to eliminate the hazards is set forth for
your safety.

First, we must recognise and accept the fact that for all
practical purposes, WHEN DISTILLING ALCOHOL WE MIGHT JUST AS WELL
BE DISTILLING GASOLINE. Take a look at the comparable properties,
given in the table on the following page:

Explosive limits (% by volume -note wide range of vapour/air mixture which can be ignited)

4.3% to 19%

1.4% to 7.6%

Vapour density (Air = 1)
(although there is a tendency
for rich alcohol vapours to
settle, it should be noted
that alcohol/air mixtures in
the flammable range have a
specific gravity only very
little greater than that of
air (1 02 - 1 11); therefore,
air currents will distribute
such mixtures widely)

1.59

3 to 4

IT SHOULD BE OBVIOUS FROM THE ABOVE DATA THAT, FROM THE FIRE
POINT OF VIEW, ALCOHOL IS ALMOST AS HAZARDOUS AS GASOLINE.

page 8

[1] IF YOU USE GLASS BOTTLES FOR MASH, BE SURE THAT THE BOTTLES
ARE TAPED WITH MASKING TAPE to avoid the hazard of cuts from
broken glass. Should the bottle break, there is no fire
hazard from the mash, because the alcohol content of the
mash is too low to create a flammable mixture at ordinary
room temperatures. Never attempt to carry heavy 10-gallon
bottles: their structural strength may be insufficient and
they have been known to fracture upon the slightest impact.
Also, the strength of your back is inadequate in an awkward
position. Use a dolly to transport the bottle on or, better
yet, siphon into the still. The best bet is to get metal or
plastic containers from one of the main mail order houses.

[2] NEVER FILL A STILL ON THE STOVE. Of all the dangerous things
to do, the second most hazardous is to fill a still with
second or subsequent runs when the still is on the stove.
Even though the fire is out, the pilot light or oven may be
lit. Any spillage of alcohol at this time can get you into
serious trouble. If the vapour flashes, you will probably
drop the dispensing container, with the likelihood of
splashing flaming alcohol on yourself or others, as well as
starting a large fire.

ALWAYS CHARGE THE STILL ON THE FLOOR AWAY FROM THE OVEN and,
if it is too heavy for one person to lift, get help. Any of
your friends will help in this important endeavour. To form
correct habits, this practice should be followed even to
charge the still with mash.

[3] NEVER LEAVE A STILL UNATTENDED - THIS IS THE MOST HAZARDOUS
ACTION OF ANY AND IS ABSOLUTELY INEXCUSABLE.

First: Condenser water can fail due to -
a. Failure of hose lines.
b. Low water pressure.
c. Shutdown of utilities.
d. Failure of condenser shell.

Without adequate condensing means, alcohol vapours will
rapidly spread within the room until a source of ignition is
reached. The degree of flash fire will depend upon the
accumulation of vapours, but in most cases the fire is
immediately beyond control. If the concentration of vapour
is sufficiently widespread, an explosion can occur.

Second: The receiver can overflow. This will create a large
area from which the alcohol can vaporise. Usually under
these conditions the flash point is reached. Flash point is
defined as the lowest temperature at which a liquid will
give off flammable vapour at or near its surface. This
vapour forms an intimate mixture with air, and it is this
mixture which ignites.

page 9

[4] LOCATE THE DISTILLED ALCOHOL RECEIVER AT AS LOW A LEVEL AS
POSSIBLE and extend the run-down tube from the condenser to
the bottom of the receiver.

First: Placing the receiver at a low level will tend to keep
any alcohol vapour away from the flames at the top of the
stove. Note that any flames (main burners or pilots) in the
oven or boiler units are usually lower and tend to draw the
air for combustion from a low level; therefore, all flames,
including the pilots, in ovens or boilers, should be turned
off. In a few of our stoves (older wedgewood models) all
pilots are controlled from a single safety shut-off valve
that shuts down the entire stove if an oven pilot goes out -
on these stoves it is impossible to cut off the oven pilot
and keep the top burners operating, therefore, for such
cases, the receiver should be located at least 3 feet away
from the bottom of the stove and the recommendation in
"PLACE THE RECEIVER IN AN AUXILIARY CONTAINER", paragraph
[6], must be followed.

Second: When the run-down tube extends to the bottom of the
receiver and becomes submerged in the liquid, there are
several safety features created:

a. The alcohol liquid that contacts air is reduced to only
the stilled surface in the receiver.

b. If any alcohol vapour remains uncondensed, it will
bubble in the liquid receiver and serve as a warning of
insufficient condensing capacity.

c. If there is abundant condensing capacity, the condenser
will establish a partial vacuum in the system and draw
up a liquid head that will stand in the run-down tube.
This will be proof of adequate condensing capacity.

NOTE: When the still is first started, it contains air above
the liquid. This air must be displaced; therefore, the end
of the run-down tube may bubble at first.

[5] USE A RECEIVER WITH A SMALL FILLING OPENING. A small opening
cuts down on the quantity of vapours escaping into the room
and it also saves you alcohol. If a fire does occur at the
receiver, it will burn at the small opening and be easily
controlled. With a large opening, the fire will be much
larger, a lot more heat will be rapidly given off, and the
fire will be more difficult to contain. If such should
occur, extinguish all sources of flame and follow the
suggestions in paragraph 10, "IN CASE OF ACCIDENT,
IMMEDIATELY CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT".

page 10

[6] PLACE THE RECEIVER IN AN AUXILIARY CONTAINER. If the
receiver is placed in a dishpan or other type of auxiliary
container, an accidental overflow will be restricted much
more than would be the case if it should run out on the
floor.

[7] Be sure exhaust fans or other means of ventilation are used
to reduce the possibility of alcohol vapour accumulation.

[8] NEVER USE A STILL IF YOU DO NOT HAVE COMPLETE CONFIDENCE IN
THE EQUIPMENT. Stills should be of welded or brazed metal
construction with metal tubing and tight-fitting slip joints
or bolted gasket heads. All joints should be carefully made
up to avoid leaks of either vapour or liquid alcohol.
CONDENSER CAPACITY SHOULD BE ADEQUATE for the maximum rate
of distillation. If you are not qualified to appraise the
condition of your equipment or its method of operation, get
a qualified friend to make the inspection for you.

[9] DON'T STORE UNCUT ALCOHOL. If a fire should involve this
highly flammable liquid, the situation could rapidly become
very serious. Cut your alcohol BEFORE you store it. Alcohol
cut to 90 proof has a flash point of 77 F, whereas 160 proof
alcohol has a flash point of only 68 F.

[10] IN CASE OF ACCIDENT, IMMEDIATELY CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.
DO NOT DELAY, OTHER THAN TO GET ALL OCCUPANTS OUT OF THE
HOUSE. It is a good practice to have your garden hose
attached to the outside faucet and readily available. An
alcohol fire can be extinguished with water if the alcohol
is sufficiently diluted. However, the heat release is so
rapid that, except for very small fires, you will need
trained help in handling the situation. DON'T DELAY IN
EVACUATING THE HOUSE AND CALLING THE FIRE DEPARTMENT; then
do the best you can to control the situation.

[11] Above all else:

a. DON'T LEAVE A STILL UNATTENDED!

b. DON'T DRINK AND RUN THE STILL!

c. DON'T RUN THE STILL IF YOU ARE SLEEPY!!!

Distillation can be interesting and it can be reasonably
safe, but don't spoil it through unintelligent operation or
plain carelessness. Though you may be a brave soul with lots
of luck, don't expose yourself and other people to serious
injury or yourself to liability for serious property
damages. REMEMBER, IF AN ACCIDENT OCCURS, YOU ARE THE CAUSE
AND THE ONE LEGALLY RESPONSIBLE.

page 11

[12] One special word of caution for those who use immersion
heaters. These heaters must be completely immersed in liquid
all the time. If they are not, they will overheat and be
destroyed. If this happens while a flammable mixture of
alcohol vapour and air is in the top portion of the still,
an explosion will occur. Such an explosion would be
extremely dangerous both from a standpoint of flying parts
of the still and a very rapid spread of fire.

Common Pot Still

This section deals with the 3 or 4 run system, using a basic
sugar-water-yeast-chemical booster ferment, and the common pot
still apparatus. Incidentally, the reflux chamber stills are
excellent (one run equals four runs in pot stills) but the
majority of us use a pot still over a gas flame; therefore, in
this section we will concern ourselves with this method. Be sure
your thermometer is mounted in the vapour space chamber so that
temperatures will be vapour temperatures. Do not mount your
thermometer in the liquid; keep it AT LEAST 3 inches above the
liquid level.

Running the Still

Using the ferment described in "The Basic Batch", page 4.
NOTE: TURN ON EXHAUST FAN FOR ALL RUNS.

First Run: Run to 207 F or 97 2 C

Pour your ferment into the kettle up to the 5-gallon mark and set
up the apparatus. Adjust your condenser and turn on the flame or
flames FULL BLAST. (This section is based on a one-burner heat
source - if you can use two burners, your times will be
considerably shorter.)

44 F indicates the start of air moving through the system.
Depending on the alcohol and water proportions, as well as the
temperature of the mix before heating, the run should start in
about one hour between 170 F and 175 F. Approximately two hours
later, when 207 F is reached, you will have a good working stock
of about one or one and a fifth gallons. BUT if your ferment
temperatures were too high, you might be unlucky and get only
gallon! (See "Rate of Fermentation," page 3.)

page 12

Your first run distillate should amount to about 40% ethyl
alcohol and 60% water and by-products. Disconnect the kettle and
POUR OUT THE RESIDUE. Be careful while pouring out the hot
residue, as splashes might cause you to drop the container
resulting in painful burns. A good way to empty a large still is
to use a piece of garden hose as a syphon. Put one end in the
liquid and fill the hose by turning on the water faucet. As soon
as all the air is removed, disconnect the hose from the faucet
and let the liquid syphon down the drain. At this point it is a
good idea to rinse out the tubing so that any lurking `solids'
are flushed away.

We might also add that sometimes one gets anxious and runs before
the mix stops working the green or unsettled batch bubbles inside
the pot. Consequently, if there is not enough space above the
level of the liquid in the kettle, solids will come over and
cause the condensate to turn milky in the receiver. This is also
caused by running `full blast' or, in other words, there is too
much heat applied to the pot.

If this should be the case, keep on running at a REDUCED HEAT and
when you finish, be SURE to rinse out the entire apparatus
thoroughly before starting the second run. Incidentally, unless
you have had lots of experience, it is not a good idea to run at
`full blast' for the entire run. Most of us use the high heat
only to cut down the heating period of the batch.

Second Run: Run to 204 F or 95 6 C

Pour your first run into the kettle as it is, do NOT add water.
Set up the apparatus again and turn on the heat TAKING GREAT CARE
THAT THE KETTLE IS BUTTONED UP. This time results come faster. At
about 170 F - 180 F (76 7 C - 82 2 C) it starts, and in about one
hour the 204 F mark is reached. If you are lucky, you should have
about 0 75 gallon of about 70% ethyl alcohol, and the remainder
water and by-products. Once again, pour out the waste, and, if
you wish, rinse out the tubing. We now have a pretty good stock,
but yeast waste and other by-product traces are definitely there,
although in very small proportions. At this point, remember, 70%
alcohol is 140 proof and has a flash point of 70 F. YOU NOW HAVE
A VERY FLAMMABLE PRODUCT.

This is the run that counts, the first two runs served to get us
a good working stock, now we start to refine it. Pour in your
second run without adding water, button up the apparatus, and
turn on the heat. Stand by to watch your thermometer. At about
150 F - 160 F the needle or column really moves fast to the 170 F
- 172 F mark; this jump is normal, don't let it worry you. Throw
away whatever comes off before 170 F (or that which comes off
before the trickle steadies into a solid stream), and save the
rest up to 184 F. Time for this third run is about hour, and
the distillate will amount to about gallon, which will be
around 82% to 87% ethyl alcohol and the remainder water and very,
very small traces of by-products. Some of us stop here and call
it quits. The elapsed time from start to this point is about 4
hours.

Fourth Run: Save everything from 170 F - 180 F (76 7 C - 82 2 C)

Now we are on the home stretch. Pour in your third run without
adding water, button up and turn on the heat. As before, the
needle will jump to the 170 F to 172 F mark. Throw away whatever
comes off before 170 F to 172 F and keep the rest up to 180 F.
This time the run will last only about hour and will amount to
about gallon consisting of 90% to 95% ethyl alcohol and the
remainder distilled water. We are betting our first drink on the
fact that the by-products will be negligible. Now you have an
excellent base for any type of liquor you care to concoct.

Notice that we have not once run according to proof; now, bring
out your hydrometer, and let's cut the fourth run back to about
90 proof. Be sure that you use your hydrometer at the correct
temperature, usually 60 F; otherwise, if the product is warmer
than prescribed, there will be an error in proof. After cutback,
you should now have about 0 8 to 1 5 gallons of the finest raw
whisky this side of the Esk (well ... ). Here's a thought: don't
worry if your ferment didn't start running at the temperature
we've indicated; it is rare that two batches are exactly alike in
alcoholic content; therefore, there will be differences in
initial boiling temperatures as explained in the footnote below.

NOTE: These temperatures are approximate. It is very
difficult to run exactly according to the prescribed
degree because:

a. Your thermometer might be off.

b. Percentage of alcohol vs. water may vary
considerably, even though you have followed
correct instructions.

page 14

Therefore, as you gain experience, you will learn to judge both
temperatures and the strength of the first trickle during the
third and fourth runs. Usually you throw away that which comes
off before the trickle steadies.

Reflux Column Distillation Units

[1] APPARATUS: Essentially there will be a pot (5 to 20
gallons), a packed column (1 to 3 feet) and a condensing
system.

The pot requires little comment except to state that
operators of gas-heated units should be careful because the
produce is nearly pure ethyl alcohol and thus extremely
combustible. The top and sides of the pot should be
insulated.

The usual packing materials are - stainless steel mesh or
turnings, glass beads or rings, and porcelain saddles. When
packed normally, one can expect 6 inches of packed column
height to be equivalent to one stage. Thus the pot and 1
feet of packed column will be equivalent to the 4-run pot
still. The outside of the column will need insulation,
otherwise too much internal condensation will occur due to
heat loss to atmosphere.

There are two schools of thought on the need of an internal
reflux condenser. Certainly if one is used, then careful
control must be exercised, otherwise the column may become
flooded and thus impair efficiency of separation. There
should be a separate needle valve for controlling internal
reflux water - do not allow the complete condenser water
stream to pass through the internal reflux condenser. One
way to decide on the need of internal reflux is the adequacy
of the column insulation. If the column is not well-
insulated, then the need for internal reflux is lessened.

[2] OPERATION: As in any distillation, the faster the rate of
distilling, the lower the efficiency of separation. If a 3
foot column is used, the process can be forced and still
yield good product with one run. If a short column (1 foot
of packing) is used, a lower rate is desirable in order to
get by with one run.

[3] CLEANING: The cleaning operations of a reflux column depend
on one's techniques of distilling. After every batch, one
should backwash the column, and after 4 or 5 batches, the
column packing should be removed and cleaned thoroughly -
hot, soapy water, vinegar rinse, raw water and sweet water.

page 15

Ageing

It was supposed for a long time that by ageing straight whisky in
charred wood a chemical change took place which rid the liquor of
fusel oils, and this destroyed the unpleasant taste and odour. It
now appears by chemical analysis that this is untrue - that the
effect of ageing is only to dissipate the odour and modify the
raw, unpleasant flavour, but to leave the fusel oil still in the
straight whisky.

It is known that wood absorbs some of the undesirable components
while some of the materials in the wood are, in turn, dissolved
by the whisky. At the same time, some of the secondary products
are changed into acids and esters, so that in matured whisky many
of the secondary components are actually present in HIGHER
content than in green liquor. The esters increase in matured
whisky, but to a lesser extent, while the furfurol and higher
alcohols, i.e. fusel oil, remain practically unchanged. There is
also the change in proof in whisky stored in wooden barrels,
since water diffuses more rapidly through the pores of the wood
than does alcohol.

The above paragraph throws a new light on the subject. Apparently
it is not true that ageing in charred wood gets rid of the
undesirable by-products, but still some of us like the taste of
the esters because that's what gives the `whiskey taste' to much
Stateside liquor.

It follows, then, that RUNNING ACCORDING TO TEMPERATURES IS ONE
OF THE BEST WAYS OF GETTING RID OF UNWANTED BY-PRODUCTS.

In the past, some people have used the technique of accelerated
ageing by double-boiler heating of 90 proof alcohol and wood
chips. We definitely DO NOT recommend this method because, first,
alcohol vapours are released above the flame of the stove, which
is hazardous, and second, the method requires a loose-fitting cap
on the alcohol container. It is difficult to specify what is
loose and what is not. If the cap should accidentally be fastened
too tightly, it is possible that pressure can build up inside the
container, and it might explode. This is a double hazard because
of the shrapnel-like articles of the container and the sudden
release of the flammable alcohol vapours.

page 16

Endnote

The story is that "The Blue Flame" was written for circulation
amongst expatriate Britons in countries where alcohol was
difficult or impossible to get. One rumour, and it is probably no
more than that, is that it was put together by the staff of one
of Her Majesty's representations in the Middle East, the idea
being that since people were going to do it anyway, they might as
well be provided with instructions for doing it safely. (Cynics
might think this too commonsense an attitude for diplomats of any
country to adopt.)

Would-be experimenters should be warned that, in the UK at least,
a licence is required to manufacture poteen. These are not easy
to get. Laws will vary from country to country, as will penalties
for breaking them. In some countries the penalties can be violent
and painful. In the UK they are merely undignified. In a country
where the penalties are severe, you might prefer to let someone
else take the risk if you can get a supply at an affordable
price. Shabby, but `watching the wall' means you don't get parts
cut off you. It seems to be the case in practice that compounds
of foreign workers in these countries will have well-established
means of getting or making alcohol, and are pretty safe. You just
need to get to know someone.

I'm told the title "The Blue Flame" derives from a test for
suspect alcohol. I can't vouch for the chemical reliability of
the test, but here it is:

Heat a small amount of the spirit in a pan until it is
well warmed. Turn off the heat, then put a flame to the
warmed alcohol. If it is `clean' spirit with few
impurities, it should burn with a steady blue flame. If
the flame is flecked with yellow or orange, or if the
flame sputters while burning, do not drink it - use it
as an embrocation instead.

If you value your organs, make sure any spirit made in this way
is cut. If you don't have a hydrometer, a rule of thumb is equal
quantities of tap-water and alcohol. Do this even if you intend
to mix it further with tonic or fruit juice. Try cutting a cupful
first - taste will guide you to the right proportions of water
and firewater.