Cold weather desserts tend to err on the heavier side. Diners expect hearty, baked options, but flavor profiles don’t have to lie heavy on the palate – much like summer’s fruit can benefit from a delicate and restrained approach, so too can winter’s pastry. At Table 1280 in Atlanta, Chad Guay’s white chocolate cheesecake is flecked with fennel and brightened – visually and flavor-wise – with pomegranate caramel and the acidic tang of pomelo sherbet. His apple-maple-stout dessert plays with spices and sweets; the surprise touch is a fruity, lively Italian olive oil drizzled over the quenelle of maple ice cream. Monica Rios Carter (formerly of Abacus in Dallas) makes desserts that are wintry through and through, each with a touch of spice (or booze, in the case of the Chocolate Whiskey Torte) that gives new life to a classic. Her financier pairs heady, aromatic star anise with Sherry and Port-poached pears, and carrot cake is gingery and rich, with white chocolate buttercream as well as the obligatory cream cheese icing.