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E39 (1997 - 2003) The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Hello everyone. I'll try to keep this short. I have a 98' 540i with 250,000 miles. This motor was running good n strong, til I blew a head gasket. Or even worse, warped a head. My plan was to fix this motor. But out of curiosity, I stopped at a BMW wrecking yard down my street. I asked about a complete motor for my 540i. They said they had a couple. $1200 for motor. And if I wanted them to install it would be +$500 for labor. They also offered 3months warranty on motor and labor. Would this be a better way to go?? Thanks in advance....

Hello edjack..... The motor I saw said 98' 103k miles on tag. This junk yard is also a repair shop for BMW n mbz. And they alway seem to be busy with customer cars. Or I can save $500 and install it myself.... Just being lazy

There's computer aspects to this too. While they may do it right, junkyards aren't known for telling the WHOLE truth. OTOH having them do it is easier and if they do it right (I'd have a Gt1 plugged in soon after) it will be worth it.

If you are replacing the CCV, you should also replace the hoses. Just blow the dipstick tube clean.
If you are replacing the radiator and water pump, you should also do the expansion tank, fan clutch, various pulleys and belts.
If you are redoing the front suspension, you should consider replacing the struts, thrust arms, sway bar links and tie rods.
If you're replacing the engine, replace your Vanos seals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by edjack

$500 sounds like a bargain

In the early days, it cost me $450 just to get a battery replaced at Stevenscreek BMW in San Jose!

Thanks for clarifying that as I was wondering if the head gasket just pops at some mileage (he's at 250K so that's a LOT!).

If overheating was the reason, then these links may help the OP:

Quote:

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1)