Im going to be asking tons of novice questions before i start reloading. Thanks in advance for being patient and helping. I will have numerous questions about setting the dies. (I have read the instructions but i would like input from seasoned veterans.) please be easy on the new guy, i know you have all answered the questions i will be asking numerous times. So, thanks in advance.

I will pick that book up for sure. Im really funny about researching and trying to pick peoples brains that are veterans in anything that i set out to do. Thank you. Believe me the questions will be coming. I can help people with weight lifting and hunting and thats about it. One day i hope to be able to help a new guy on here. Its gonna be awhile though. This seems like a great forum. Im glad to be a part of it

As far as setting dies ae concerned, the instructions that come with the die set are pretty straight forward. If you follow them you will be fine. Go to youtube.com and search "reloading-setting dies" for very good visual aids.

Many times following the manufactures instructions (at least in the case of RCBS inless recently changed) will quickly lead to brass failure.

The reason is, manufacturing tolerences which in simple terms means nothing is "perfect" and exactly matches the published specs.

Therefore, Always size bottle neck brass the minimum amount that will allow brass fired in YOUR chamber to again chamber in YOUR chamber after sizing.

Will following the manufactures instructions allow you to make ammo that will fire in your gun?

The answer is almost always, YES.

However, it may also lead to rapid brass failure!! and less brass to chamber consistancy.

Having read only the printed instructions provided with RCBS dies, which I have used for many years, and the Hornady dies of more recent purchase, the "foot note" in the Hornady information is MUCH closer to reality then the RCBS info I have.

If RCBS has not already done so, we, the buying public would be well served if they would follow Hornady's lead in this situation.

The document I will be sending to "318" shortly, quotes the infomation spoken of above, and explains the reasons there is a MUCH better way to adjust our sizing dies.

The email you sent me with the document on the dies is something that should be put out there for everyone to read. Honestly. Thats "sticky" material. Very good read, also very, very helpful. Thanks again

You will likely see posts and info about "neck sizing dies", and while I have bought a neck sizing die a time or two over the years, I have never seen where there was any advantage to the extra cost.

Not saying there might not be a time, just that I have never seen the time when a properly adjusted Full Length sizing die didn't do just as well.

Also you will read posts where people praise the Lee products in general and the Factory Crimp Die specifically.

Well, while I do use a limited number of Lee products, the Factory Crimp Die is simply taking money from your pocket and placing it in Lee's most of the time.

And yes I have bought some of those dies.

However, in most cases, a properly adjusted two die set for bottle neck cartridges and a three die set for strieght wall cases like handguns or 45/70 will do everything that is needed.

Not 100% of the time, but the big majority of the time.

Yes, if you load cast boolits in a bottle neck cartridge, you'll need some way to flair your case mouth.

And in some cases and with some chambers with handguns something like a taper crimp die may be needed if the roll crimp is not properly done or the chamber is overly tight.

But this is rarely the case. Have never seen it, and yes I do have a taper crimp die for my .44. It sits is it's nice green box, has been tried, then returned to the box. Never paid for itself in results, not even close.

So, all that to say this, before your fill up you bench with extra and likely un-needed extra/special dies along with making a big hole in your wallet, make sure there is a need beyond properly adjusting your 2 or 3 die set.

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