Eric - materials will be here tomorrow and I'll be able to get back on track. Quick question - once everything is down and the drain is to be packed with mortar, is that the same mud mix as the pan do I use a firmer mortar mix?

Cx asked me to clarify that with the pro-base system the membrane flashing that comes with the product is intended to give you the up turn off the base however the rest of the wall should also be waterproofed ..

The shower is a nonstandard size so I did a dry pack base and not a system.

95% of it went perfect last night until I got to the final corner and ran out of mud. I need to build up another 1/16" - 1/8" to one corner. Can I just add more on top tonight or should I apply some thinset and then build up?

If it matters, last night I misted with water and had it covered with plastic all night.

So the Boss decided on using a molding to bisect the wall with ceramic subway on bottom and marble on top. The molding will interfere with the door similar to the picture. If you zoom way in where the door swings, you can vaguely see an indention carved out of the molding like the shape of an aluminum can for the door to swing freely.

The installers told us our door will be handled the same way using this carve out technique. With the molding being ceramic, is there a paint or other method that would cover up the tan ceramic once it is carved out? The tile will be a bright white. There is a ceramic paint on Amazon that has less than stellar reviews. Would a number of coats of nail polish work?

can you substitute a flat piece of trim of the same size rather than the one that protrudes out for that door clearance width of a few inches? I was just at my brother's house and it was pretty ugly to see travertine trim trim down obviously with a four and a half inch angle grinder after the fact. and ground flush and way more than is needed to clear the glass.

I have toyed with that idea. My concern with that approach is how small a trim piece would need to be cut as the tiling ends quickly after the shower door. I asked the installer how much space was needed for the door swing but he didnt answer and just said they would do the grinding. I don't think he was opposed to doing it this way but he thought it looked worse than grinding. Personal preference obviously.

Cutting a small piece of trim still exposes the tan color of the ceramic so I would still need to address that.

I meant omit the trim in a small 3" area and use a tile strip. This way it will look like you planned things rather than grind off finished wall. At my brother's house they ground a bit down below in a few places. Not a bad job if you have ever used an angle grinder to dry cut tile but m fugly. And it was ground for way more than needed. And not even length on inside and outside of the door. I was interested in this hack. So I studied it. Sorry no pics. But his trim was maybe proud of tile wall 3/8-1/2" and at first I thought it was cut 2- 3" or so on each side of door center so it would not hit the door when nearly full open. But the door swung out plenty to clear it in the open position. . It was only an issue of clearance for the glass inside the hinge point so If glass is 3/8" thick 1/16 away from wall tile that's like less than 3/4" on each side that needs trimming.

While this may not be your hinge they are mostly the same. 28 mm is over an inch to the pivot point so you can see even if the glass is 10 mm thick the glass it still 23 mm from the wall when fully open . And you can do a quick swing of a ruler on paper to see if the moulding or trim is 1/2" proud grinding off 1" on each side of door center is about enough. To see this on my brother's 10 k shower was sick. I'm guess but the glass surround must have been 3 k now that I'm pricing a small 27x 83 glass door at 1000$