Console Table with Scroll Legs

Hi! I’d love for you to follow me on Pinterest Her Tool Belt and if you love instagram, you can keep up with me there too!

Our family rotates which sibling to give to at Christmas, I had my sister Kristi this year. She’s the same sister that I ‘helped’ tile her house with herringbone travertine, barn wood tile, Versailles travertine, that was fun :-). For Christmas she really wanted a console table to go behind her couch, it is the first thing that you see when you walk into the front door. She was eyeing this beautiful Giles Console Table from RH.

However $1895 is not in the Christmas present budget. I decided that I could whip up something similar, but decided to change up the legs into scrolls. The final cost was about $95, I think it turned out lovely. It’s an impressive piece, that is not too hard to build.

Step 1

(Note: this console table uses homemade scroll legs, but really you can sub for square or even reclaimed table legs, just cut them to 25 3/4″. The plan shows orange square legs, that is where the scroll legs go, I had trouble drawing them in Sketch up.)

Cut the 2×8 boards into 3 that are 81″ long and 6 that are 25 3/4″ long. Download the leg pattern: Console Table Scroll leg 1, Console Table Scroll leg 2, Console Table Scroll leg 3. Print out the leg pattern, make sure your print settings are on 100% and not ‘fit to page’. Line up pattern, tape together and cut out. Trace the pattern onto the 2 x 8 x 25 3/4″ boards. Cut out the scrolls using a band saw (that is what I used), scroll saw or jig saw. (If you are using a jig saw, I find that it is difficult to get a straight down cut with a jig saw and you may have to sand a lot and fill more later.)

Apply some wood glue to a leg and sandwich 2 legs together. This will give a nice ‘chunky’ leg look.

Clamp the legs together until the glue dries. If needed you can screw the legs together.

Repeat for each set of legs. Once the glue has dried, remove excess glue and sand the leg joint smooth, using wood filler as needed.

Step 2

Cut the 1×3 boards into 4 that are 80″ long, 8 that are 18 1/2″ long. Drill pocket holes* on both ends of each of the 18 1/2″ pieces. Apply wood glue to the ends of the 18 1/2″ boards and build up the bottom and top frames using 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

Cut the 1x4s to 80″ long. I like to trim the edges until the width is 3 1/4″ so I have a straight edges to work with. I decided to give the bottom a planked look and left a 1/16″ gap between the boards. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ or longer brad nails to secure the boards.

Step 3

Cut the 1x3s that are 25 3/4″ long. Drill pocket holes* in both ends of the boards. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the back supports on the ends and middle.

Tip the table onto it’s back and clamp a scroll leg into place (flush with an edge). Use 2 or 3 – 2 1/2″ screws to attach the leg to the bottom.

Add pocket holes to the top frame that will attach the top later, and pocket holes to attach the top frame to the scroll legs. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to attach the top frame to the back and legs.

Step 4

Measure from the top of the bottom planking 12 1/2″, mark on the back and scroll leg.

Measure across the length, mine was about 15 5/8″ – 15 3/4″. Cut a 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ x your number board with a 20 deg miter. Drill pocket holes on the 90 deg side underneath. Use glue and 1 1/4″ to attach it to the back, use 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach the other side to the scroll leg.

Measure the width that you want the middle shelf, probably around 15 3/4″. Cut the 1×8 and 1×10 to 80″ long and trim the width to fit. Drill pocket holes in the middle shelf boards to join them together. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to join the boards. Once the glue is dry, remove excess glue and sand the shelf.

Step 5

For the 2×8 x 81″ boards, I trimmed the width to 7″ so I could have straight edges. Drill pocket holes along the inside edges to join the boards together. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to join the top boards together. Once the glue is dry, remove excess glue and sand the top.

Attach the top to the top frame with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Place the middle shelf on the shelf supports, use glue and brad nails to secure it into place.

To give the edges some definition, I lightly sanded the edges and used a dark glaze to age the table. The glaze is Van Dyke Brown. I applied the glaze initially with a Q-tip to get it on the sanded corners, then used a rag to feather it out.

Related

Attention: Any do-it-yourself project involves risk of some sort. Your tools, materials, and skills will vary, as will the conditions at your work site. Hertoolbelt LLC will not assume any responsibility or liability for damages or losses sustained or incurred in the course of your project or in the use of the item you create. Always follow the manufacturer's operating instructions in the use of tools, check and follow your local building codes, and observe all commonly accepted safety precautions.

I like yours more than the one you found. You did a lovely job on this piece. I love the chunky, rustic look and the whitewashed look of it. I’m dying to do something different to my kitchen table. Hmmmm!

Hello cute lady! Great post. Pinned and tweeted. I’m stopping by to let you know that Jessica picked this as her favoriteat our last party! Woo Hoo! We will be featuring it at our party on Monday at 7 pm. I hope to see you there. Lou Lou Girls

This is amazing! I love how this turned out, you did an amazing job. It looks better then the original table, I love it! I have chosen this as one of my features from last weeks friday favorites link party. Come grab a button, link up again! It goes live at 7pm.http://www.ourhousenowahome.com/

Love love love it,,I’m dying to try making it but one thing?..you said you trimmed the boards to 7″..??presumably you did this on a table saw..? If you don’t have a table saw how would not trimming the boards affect the outcome of the table?

If you didn’t trim the boards to 7″, your top would be about 3/4″ -1″ wider giving you a larger overhang on the front and there would be deeper grooves where the boards are joined together. It really doesn’t matter if you trim the width down to 7″. Good luck with your build! I’d love to see a pic when you finish it 🙂

Wow, this is so impressive! I’ve been wanting something similar for our media center but with a high gloss black finish. I love the scroll legs. Thanks for linking up to THe Creative Circle. HOpe to see you back this week. 😉

This may sound sexist but it’s not meant to be, all comments have been from ladies so here’s one from a male..You have a gift and have produced a very fine piece of work well done and please keep them coming

Hi- I love this table and must make it- but the only thing I didn’t see was finished dimentions for the height of the table- I know length was 80″. I am guessing that by the legs being 25 inches and the rest it ends up being around 30″ tall? We have an sofa we bought while living in Italy, and it is a much lower profile than American sofas–so I will have to do some adjustments on the measurements. Thank you!!

I am making this right now and have a friend who also plans to make it. I have to say, the plans you have put together are great. However, we have found that some of the specifics haven’t been accurate for us. We’ve had to add longer pocket screws/shorter ones in some places and also, we’ve had a few little hiccups with it. We’re going to buy a large piece of good wood for the top as the three plank effect we have isn’t even so looks bad. We want it to be a real show piece in our family room. We will pass on learning points to our friend. We did invest in a band saw HOWEVER as a beginner, I have made a mess of two blades already. The key to this machine is SLOW SLOW SLOW!

Thank you for the inspiration and the plans. I think a review of them would be good as we found them not accurate in some aspects.

Hi Christine,
I really appreciate your feed back, I found a few dimensional errors that I corrected. I didn’t find the places where the screws were called out wrong though. I hope your table turns/turned out beautiful!

This plan lacks alot of detail…I am a beginner so i have to read instructions and follow them to the letter in order to build this table and I can’t get past the purchase of the materials as homedepot does not carry anything thicker than 3/4″ in the store and you are asking for lumber as thick as 1 1/2″. Also the plan is not exactly for the table you show with the scroll legs rather one with square legs. I wanted to use a full plank or one piece for each level on the table instead of all those smaller pieces which i think would look better and seem to be what you actually used on the table you built. Again that is not what the instructions allow for. So i am having a problem coming up with an actual materials list based on what you list on the plan… Do you have a table plan that is a bit closer in detail than the one shown for the scroll table? I’ve searched the web for one but can’t seem to find one…

You can substitute wider pieces of lumber for each level instead of using 1×4’s (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″), like I used on the bottom. However each level is wider than readily available lumber, so you cannot use 1 piece. For the bottom level you can join together a 1×10 (3/4″ x 9 1/4″) and 1×12 (3/4″ x 11 1/4″) and trim to fit. For the top you can either use 2 2×12’s (1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″) if you like thick, or 2 1×12’s if you like thin.

Beautiful table! I absolutely love the finish! I would love to achieve the same finish look you did, I have a few questions about it.

1) How many coats of paint did you use originally?
2) Would stain achieve the same look instead of stain?
3) Which glaze did you use?
4) Did you wipe off the extra glaze after applying it?
5) What did you use for a topcoat and how many coats did you use?

Hi Brenda,
Thank you. 1. I used one coat, that paint is very thick. 2. If you sand the edges and use a dark stain, I think you’ll get the same look. 3. Van Dyke brown, I picked it up years ago at Sherwin Williams (my can doesn’t even have a label, I think it’s a glaze). 4. After the paint was dry, I lightly sanded all of the edges. Then I used a Q-tip to apply the glaze/stain on the sanded corners, then I wiped off the glaze and tried to blend it in about an inch or so onto the painted area. 5. I used Varathane satin finish water based polyurethane, 2 coats.

I loved this table! Decided to give it a try, personalized it a bit and built this for my mom. Tried to attach a picture of mine but won’t load. Anyways. so so happy with the outcome! Thanks for the free plans!!!

Hi Amy! First off, Your table is BEAUTIFULLLLLL! I’m a sucker for a RH knock-off (because I just can’t bring myself to pay RH prices). My question is: do you think this table would be stable without the middle shelf? I am wanting something that just has the top and bottom portions but wondered if you thought stability would be an issue without it?

[…] Amy from Hertoolbelt knew a sofa table would be the perfect gift for her sister for Christmas. She had been eyeing an elegant table with scroll legs from Restoration Hardware, but Amy says that “$1895 is not in the Christmas present budget.” Fortunately, Amy is one handy lady and was able to instead build her sister her dream console for only $95. While this impressive piece may look difficult to build, Amy reassures that it is actually pretty simple. Isn’t it a beauty?!? […]

[…] asked me to help with her first build. She chose this beautiful scroll leg table from Her Tool Belt. The detail on the legs was tricky because the best tool for the job was a jigsaw. As you can […]

Search Her Tool Belt

My Latest Videos

Follow Me!

Top Posts & Pages

Check out more projects

Check out more projects

Copyright

Thank you for wanting to share my work! No need for my permission to pin my work or to feature 1 or 2 pictures with full watermarks intact that link back to the original project. Please do NOT copy tutorials.