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Description

This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. (Stay left if you want the 5.10 experience; going right makes it easier). After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains.

Location

The steep prow/corner that is between the left slab (the section of wall that has Call of the Wild and Serengeti on it) and the right slab (the section of wall with Stampede and Welcome to the Jungle on it). Access it from the main landing (the landing under the slab routes on the left side of the Wild).

Ended up climbing a bit differently that we thought, but it wound up being pretty darn good. Mostly a jug haul up a steep wall but there are a few smaller, hard to see, holds thrown in for your pleasure. Will likley end up being the most popular route here.
Jul 23, 2008

The most difficult climb on the wall. In my opinion, this is one of the best 5.10a's in the canyon. Pulling through the crux requires laybacking off of a sweet flake/rail. Just plain fun climbing.

8/21/08 EDIT: I've seen some people stay right at the 3rd bolt, avoiding the sweet (yet kinda powerful) lieback crux moves. If you do this, I don't think it's quite 5.10. The intended route is more to the left, up the steeper bulge. Either way is good, but be warned that there is probably more loose rock on the right side variation.
Aug 16, 2008

Very fun climb. Staying to the right makes it easier for, sure, but doing so puts you in a balancy spot for a move or two. Staying on the flake is much funner, and the feet are a little slippery, but it makes it exciting.
Aug 18, 2009

Led this for the first time today and I have to say, I thought it was top grade. The first part of the climb is good, the last part is good, nothing amazing, but the crux move is one of the funnest moves I've done. You can go to the right, yeah, but not only does it make it a lot easier (I watched a guy struggle and struggle through the crux before finally just climbing on the right to the chains), but you also miss the best part of the climb.
Apr 24, 2010

I would 2nd the previous comments. I mistakenly went right the first time I did this. I totally missed the sweet lieback moves. That's where the fun, and the difficulty lies. I also noticed that the footholds in the crux were indeed very polished. If you want your onsight, don't read this next part: a high heel hook can get you past the polished feet.
Apr 27, 2011

This was a great, fun route. The lie back moves are a lot of fun, but i'd say the same thing about the foot holds that Christian did, I slipped on one and almost blew the onsight. Great rock in this whole area.
Jun 16, 2011

Though it was a very well done route, I feel like it has one major flaw. At the gem section, the lieback at the flake, the feet were way slippery. It felt pretty greased out, making for pretty frustrating footwork. 5.23.17 I'd like to see everyone else's thoughts.
May 25, 2017

That crux layback section was pure gold! I loved it right up until I had to move my feet higher onto that slick section. Man, my feet must've slipped a dozen times, then I fell, then they slipped a couple more times before I figured out a really funky toe hook way to the side, reached for a far off crimp and was able to make it past!

It's a sweet route - no doubt about that, but that couple feet of climbing is just polished from lots of chalk and rubber packed into it. Granted, the shoes I had are really old and the rubber doesn't stick well any more. I'd take a wire brush next time I go to this wall to rough that section up a little. Still an awesome, classic route!
Jun 3, 2017