Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Take it to another mechanic. Check engine light is not connected to brakes. I think the brake light comes on when you are low on brake fluid. Brake pads should last for more than 17K. I'm still on my originals with 61K.

Did your mechanic mention the source of the problem? Some dealers point to seized calipers so that you end up driving on your brakes and wearing them prematurely. I had mine lubricated after the second year and they're still going strong (touch wood!). I'd get a second opinion since the cost of replacing all four discs could be pricey.

I see. Thanks Meade. At least someone reads their owners manual. Rather not have it do that though. I'm still left wondering why the AC light does not come on at that setting. Hmmmm. Maybe I should just read the owners manual.

I have had my 02 protege5 since May 2002. I purchased it brand new. 11 months later, after having only put about 15 000 kms on it, I brought it back to the dealership because it was making a strange noise. The dealership came back and told me that the rear calipers had seized, and that all 4 brake pads needed to be changed! After 15 000 kms!!!! I brought to a different mechanic, he managed to salavage the calipers, as well as the front pads, but I had to have new ones put on the rear. The mechanic couldn 't believe the unusual wear on the pads and even asked if I had been driving around with my e-brake on, which I never had.

Since then, I've had to have my front pads changed, and just had to replace my rear ones AGAIN... the rear calipers had seized again... and the rotors were really worn. I priced out new calipers for it, and they're $141 each.

In general, I LOVE my car, but I definitely think that what's happened with my brakes in 3.5 years is quite unusual, and makes me think it's a defect with the car. I'm new the the forum, but am just wondering if anyone has experienced similar problems with their brakes on their P5.

I've heard of the brake caliper issue before on other forums. Don't know why you would replace the front pads if the problem is on the rear. There was TSB on it.

Symptoms and Conditions Some customers may experience rear brake noise and/or dragging rear brake pads due to the accumulation of rust on the rear brake mounting supports. Repair Procedure When you encounter this concern, replace rear brake pads with improved parts and remove rust from caliper supports. The brake pads have been modified to increase the clearance between pads and mounting supports from 0.15-0.80 to 0.30.80. New Part No. BKYT-26-43ZB (Rear Brake Pads with Hardware)

The hotspot on the clutch doesn't fit the cold start clutch chatter in the Mazda service bulletin. Mine only chatters when it is hot or the clutch is being used a lot (like bumper to bumper traffic). Mine's way past warranty, so I'll live with it until it gets too bad to ignore.

Mine charges a diagnostic fee (for some repair jobs), and I can't remember what it is ($60 sounds a little steep), but I've heard it's "refunded" (i.e., not charged) if you go ahead and get the repair done. I guess they do this to keep people from taking up their time "checking" stuff that might not be bad in the first place -- and to keep "tuner" kids from clogging up their service departments getting tests done for the sake of performance add-ons.

Yesterday I was driving my new-to-me 2002 P5 and noticed the brake light on the dash was on. I checked the emergency/parking brake, but it was off. When I got to my destination I put the car in park and tried putting the brake on and then off again to see if maybe that would turn the dash brake light off. The light stayed on but I noticed a new WEIRD problem... with the car turned off and no key in the ignition, the parking brake was turning the headlights on and off (if the brake was on, the headlights were on, if the brake was off, so were the headlights). I started the car again and this time no brake light on the dash and the headlight thing stopped happening. When I drove back home though, the brake light on the dash came back on. I can't make the brake work the headlights any more but the brake light on the dash comes on all the time now. It seems to me like there's a wire crossed or something, but it didn't seem to be doing this before. My car is still under the factory warranty for another few months... any chance this sort of thing is covered? Thanks very much for any ideas.

Check your brake fluid level. Low level will make e-brake light come on. Also, could be e-brake is stuck on... rear e-brake drum or out of adjustment cable? Not sure I understand your description. Do you have daytime running lights?

As a further to my first message, I also found out that the brake light on the dash only comes on when we turn the headlights on... so if we turn on the headlights, the brake light on the dash turns on and if we set the brake, the headlights come on At least now there's a connection... must be a crossed wire or something.

Bought my Protege5 2002 in June and love it. When I acquired it, the driver door panel rattled, the dealer fixed it, and now it's back to rattling again (unless I lean on it with my elbow!) Anyone have this problem who can offer a solution?

Is it as simple as tightening up the screws that hold the door panel on? There is about 5 for each door and some are hidden behind screw caps. If you need to get inside the door, the interior door handle itself pops off to access more screws, but sometimes needs alot of force to come off. Be careful not to break it.

If they are not chrome plated, it is not possible for them to rust. Are they chrome plated?. Chips and nicks in the clear coat might expose the aluminum to oxidation. Waxing will help a little bit but won't last long.

I just bought a Sirius receiver that needs to have the power cable connected. Any suggestions on where to connect it? I already have a Pioneer head unit that it connects to, but I used a wiring harness for that.

We charge $76 for a diag fee. Thats 1 flat rate hour. If we didnt charge anything for looking at it, people would take their factory diagnosis and either fix it themselves or take it to a pepboys or similar for aftermarket parts. That would not be profitable for us. Sometimes the diag fee is rolled into the repair, sometimes it is not.

Here is the problem.I have a 2002 Protege 5. I have had no problems to date since I bought it. 2 days ago I went out and started the car. Then I noticed the first problem. When I turn the fan switch, I get nothing. No air (hot or cold) will come out of the vents or defrost. What could it be? Any help appreciated.

I had a Mazda Dealer check it ... When i ask about the warranty he says.. "Only with a Manufacturer's defect, they honor warranty"The dealer is treating the rotor problem as a wear and tear rather than manufacturer problem. That's possible but you should check the Technical Service Bulletins to make sure this problem doesn't occur for others. If you did run into a pot-hole, you'd have to pay the bill just as if you drove into a tree.

The Left rear Rotor N Bender(Something to do with the suspension) has gone bad and would need a replacement. I would get more details and a quote for information. You may want to check the online manual (http://protege5.ugly.net) to take a look at the parts involved. Did anyone else work on the suspension recently and possibly cause damage? You may want to call another Mazda dealer to see if they say something similar.