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All About Mountaineering…

Before I began to focus my research on mountaineering, I developed a list of questions about the sport that I hope to answer over the next several weeks. As I learn about mountaineering and am able to answer these questions, I will record my answers below!

1. When, where, and why did mountaineering begin?

Earliest climbing was for religious purposes.

Developed in early 1800s (during the Enlightenment) by an elite group of male European naturalists, scientists, explorers, and their local guides.

By 1855, mountaineering had become more of a sport than a scientific excursion.

Was originally seen as a reckless and unjustifiable wast of time, a practice of rich thrill-seekers.

Joy of discovery, desire to survey uncharted terrain, quest for scientific insight, and competition to conquer major peaks also brought climbers to the mountains.

2. Who were the first mountaineers?

The first mountaineers were elite male European naturalists, scientists, explorers, and their local guides.

3. When, where, how did women become involved?

Maria Paradis (30 year old French maid) was first women to summit (Mont Blanc 1808). She is not considered a true mountaineer because of her monetary motivation and failure to ever climb again after Mont Blanc.

American mountaineering clubs that developed in late 1850s allowed women to join before similar clubs in Europe.

Henriette d’ Andeville (44 year old French seamstress) climbed Mont Blanc in 1838 in a 14-pound outfit that included a black boa. Extensive amounts of luggage including hand cream and 18 bottles of wine were brought on the climb. She climbed for a love of the mountain and to provide a feminine perspective on reaching the summit. She is considered the pioneer of women's mountaineering.

Elizabeth Le Blond (member of upper-class British society) was not only an important figure in the development women’s mountaineering, but was also a pioneer of winter mountaineering. Her sense of adventure and desire to break free from the "shackles of conventionality" drove her to make hundred of first ascents, including the first “manless” climb and many "guideless" climbs. She helped found the Ladies Alpine Club in 1907 and became its first president. From this position she encouraged many young male and female climbers.

Annie Smith Peck (member of American middle-class) became the first woman to make mountaineering her profession. She began her mountaineering career 1895 when she climbed the Matterhorn at the age of 45. A desire to climb mountains unclimbed by women prompted Peck to make many summits, including Peru's Mount Huascaran (1907), which was considered at the time to be the highest peak in the Western World. Throughout her career, Peck gave many lectures, authored several books, and used her success to promote feminism.

Miriam O'Brien Underhill (member of American upper-middle-class), although not the first manless climber, was the most "articulate advocate and chief innovator" of the practice. She believed that it was not only necessary to climb guideless, but also manless in order to further develop her mountaineering skills. She climbed many mountains, including the Matterhorn, on all-female teams. Her manless climbing ended in 1933 when her new husband, Richard Underhill, became her climbing partner. The pair made numerous first ascents in the Rocky Mountains and were charter members of the Four Thousand Footer Club.

3. Standard Gear?

Rope

Rope is your "safety net."

Originally made of natural fibers, such as manila and sisal.

Nylon ropes were developed during World War II. Early nylon ropes were made from many tiny nylon pieces bunched into strands and twisted together. These ropes were very stiff and stretchable.

Today, synthetic ropes, called kernmantle ropes, are manufactured especially for climbing. These ropes have a core of nylon filaments and are covered in a smooth, woven nylon casing. Kermantle ropes are the only ropes approved by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) for climbing.

Sold in a wide variety of thicknesses, lengths, colors, and for a variety of different climbing purposes.

Should be cleaned frequently and constantly inspected for damages.

Runners

Loops of webbing or cord.

Can be tied (inexpensive, can be tied and untied) or sewn together (stronger, lighter, less bulky).

Plastic boots are preferred for winter ice climbs. They are warmer, drier, and more compatible with hinged crampons than leather boots.

Leather boots are preferred for moderate condition alpine ice climbing.They are lighter, better for rock climbing, more comfortable for hiking, and more compatible with hinged crampons than plastic boots.

Crampons

Ice Ax (or other ice tools, such as an ice hammer)

Ice Screws

Developed during 1960s. More advanced than early ice pitons, which were "blade-type rock pitons with holes, notches or bulges to increase their grip in ice" (Graydon & Hanson, p. 371).