A very nice climb. We took it fast and light simulclimbing in sneakers to the summit block. Beware of the greasy holds! We were surprised by them! Downsloping and slick. Hard in the approach shoes. A good relaxing day after mt. stuart.

East Ridge (II 5.7) -- June 5, 2006 -- Climbed with my brother during a one week visit to Seattle. There was A LOT of snow...consistent cover starting from about 5,000 ft...which made the approach fairly tiring. Also a bit confusing, since I'd never been up there before, so we ended up on the ridge to the right of Ingalls Pass a bit too soon. Once on the route, the climbing was really straightforward. A bit loose getting up to the notch on the east ridge but then generally solid from there to the summit. I don't think there was any 5.7 climbing on this route.

South Ridge (II 5.4) -- June 16, 2009 -- Considerably less snow this time around, but we still managed to take the wrong trail due to terrible directions in the guidebook. Got it right on the second try and made it to the summit in 3.5 hours from the car. The rock on this route is really interesting and the climbing is excellent. This is a far better route than the East Ridge. Done with Bill Ayers as a short day in the mountains before his flight home to NYC.

East Ridge. July 3, 2005. Weather and our subsequent (bad) decisions led to not going for N. Ridge of Stuart. This was a consolation prize. Stunning views. Mostly a scramble. Still - a nice route. Arm yourself with patience if you're going to rap the South Ridge....

South Ridge. September 7, 2002. Climbed in snow/hail conditions. Ran into 2 groups of mountaineers on the 2nd pitch - long delays, very cold. Fun climb.

First rock climb on that slick type of rock. Fun hiking into the climb. Weather was great, the view of Mt. Stuart was fascinating. Lake was still frozen over. Waterfalls and little rivers were beautiful. The actual route was challenging (for me, a beginner). Went up a couple pitches, took a snack break, and decide to go down. I'll go back there someday soon and complete that, I gurantee. :)

Route Climbed: South Ridge and South Peak Date Climbed: September 1 2004

Decided to grab both peaks in the small weather window provided... had a whiteout on the summit of the south peak which was intense but a whole lot of fun... enjoyed the area alot... the Cascades are truly incredible and have made a believer out of me!

Took a day off from work and climbed on a beautiful day with David Harris. We initially tried to find a route up the East peak but were turned around by too much loose rock. The East Ridge climb was easy but fun - we did it in two pitches (one long simulclimbed pitch and a short one to the summit). After rapping down we quickly climbed the South Ridge before heading back to the lake, picking up our packs and cruising back to Portland.

The bad weather streak for jtschanz and I continued on this climb too. The trail was under snow well below Ingalls pass, and low clouds were blocking the view. Once we got to the saddle between the North and South peaks wasn't sure if it was a wise thing to climb in such bad conditions. But then we decided to go for it and made a very speedy ascent to avoid more weather. A six person Seattle Mountaineers team kindly let us pass them. On the way down breaks in the clouds allowed us to see what we had just climbed. Very cool place after all.

Climbed in a mix of snow/rain/wind. Approached in the fog, waited a bit for the freezing rain to stop, then decided to give it a try. Luckily the climbing was easy and we eventually made it to the summit where we spent a total of 20 seconds in the wind before deciding to get down as fast as possible. We did 4 single rope rappels to get back to the ground. Fun climb that would have been even more enjoyable in the sun!