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Topic: Winterizing recommendations ? (Read 5599 times)

ACF-50 is great. You can spray it on everything. It will remove existing light rust and corrosion. If you over spray it, it will just run off, but leave a protective coat that should last for several months to a year. It is good stuff, commonly used by aircraft owners whose poor old airplanes are usually left out in the weather. They are sprayed on the structure inside and out.Don't even try to compare it to kerosene, Oops, I mean WD40. It's a good parts cleaner, but for long term protection, it may be good for a month at the most.Bare

WD40 is not recommended for switches and contacts, it attracts and traps dirt and grime that eventually can interfere with electrical functions.

I learned that the hard way. Many years ago I used WD40 to clean some switches and it just made a grimy mess out of them and added way too much impedance. Pretty much ruined the switches. I was young and had no idea there existed such thing as a cleaning spray for electronics.

As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-˝ weeks ago. Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?

I'll rephrase this part of my question for clarity. I understand that used oil can become acidic and "eat up" internal engine parts if left sitting over the winter, which is why an oil change just before storage is recommended. I have 281 miles on my current oil, which I changed 3 weeks ago (Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w-50 synthetic). Is this "used" enough that I should consider changing it again? I have 1486 miles total.

I'll rephrase this part of my question for clarity. I understand that used oil can become acidic and "eat up" internal engine parts if left sitting over the winter, which is why an oil change just before storage is recommended. I have 281 miles on my current oil, which I changed 3 weeks ago (Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w-50 synthetic). Is this "used" enough that I should consider changing it again? I have 1486 miles total.

I wouldn't worry about it. Oil only becomes acidic if there is water and fuel leakage into it, or from blow-by from the combustion chamber, combined with water. The acid attacks the bearing metal, but it is not so common on gasoline engines. Diesel engines experience this when using high sulphur fuels, but nothing to worry about on gasoline engines. There is also not going to be any amount of water in your oil, apart from maybe a minor amount from condensation.

your oil's PH should be fine (litmus paper can be used if you are that curious)

I like to change oil, drive around, then, change again to flush out as many of the small carbon particles as possible. My personal belief is this will reduce the size and number of barnacles inside my motor.

I'll use the cheapest oil I can find for this, and, it probably just makes *me* feel better ~ but, that's why I do lots of things !!

The only place the salt treatment is showing itself is some rusty spots on the chain, which I plan on changing this winter anyway, and on the rivets on the cover of my "cheap" old-fashioned solo seat, which I just can't be bothered to worry about.

It's pushing 50 degrees today, so now's my chance: I topped up the fuel tank with Sta-Bil treated gas - brought the bike home, let it cool, and soapy-washed and rinsed it. I dried it off by hand, shot it all over with an air compressor - which I think spread water around more than dried it, but what the heck - and dried it off by hand again.

But now about the ACF-50... I've got some; but do I really just cover everything with it? No worries about it pooling in places and making a mess? Shoot it into electrical connections?

I did the same - what a mess! I covered the floor against overspray, but it still made a mess of the spots on the bike I was trying to avoid. We may call it fogging oil, but it doesn't come out of the pressurized can as a fog, or even a mist, but a rough chunky spray - and the straw makes it worse. I got rather more than I wanted to on the tires, and on the brake disc, too, I'm sure, but what's done is done. I let it sit for awhile, and wiped it down a little to catch the drips and puddles. I'll worry about cleaning it off the traction bits next spring. The bike gets a corner seat in my garage for the winter.

I've topped up my tank with Sta-Bil - spiked fuel. The manual says to "drain the fuel completely from the fuel tank and fuel lines." I'm hoping that I'll be ok. I really hope to be up and running again before April...

This winter: replace fork oil, replace chain (and sprocket, I guess), possibly modify my solo seat for better looks and comfort. I'll also be trying to organize a warranty replacement (it's 4 hours to the nearest dealer I would think of trusting) of my front fender and fork tubes, where they got all torn up due to misalignment of the fender when it was assembled. Maybe I should have "them" do the fork oil while they're taking it all apart? I don't know, I kind of look forward to doing that kind of job...

Any thoughts on what I should do, if anything, about taking the stress off the tires? It's on the center stand, so obviously the rear is ok, but what about the front? There's so little pressure in it, but I could block up the frame to get both tires off the ground...