I am just starting my first rod. I have purchased my blank, cork (for a fighting butt also) and a reel seat. I have already built the necessary equipment to build with, and have some simple questions. I'm using an eight weight blank, intended for Bass, Pickerel, Pike and even some saltwater species. I currently have several questions, which are as follows. Which paste epoxy is most popular (with heavier/ish rods) for securing the grip and reel seat? I have PC-7 heavy duty paste epoxy, but that looks slightly viscous for what I'm set out to do . The other question pertains to guides. I am not set out to break the bank on my first rod, yet seeing as this will get heavy use (that is, unless it turns out to be some freak club-like stick of a rod...), I would like to outfit it with guides that will last. Also, any references to favorite suppliers would be appreciated! Thanks in advanced.
-Blake

I use Devcon 2 Ton epoxy (30 min. working time, 8 hours to cure), avail. from many hardware stores. I've built a number of regular and spey rods with it, for both reel seats and cork rings, with never a hint of failure.

For the rod you propose, I'd use standard two-foot stainless steel snakes. (I like black single-foot guides for most trout rods.)

I like the thick paste type epoxies for gluing components to the blank because components pretty much stay were you put them and don't move around unless you move them. My favorite is Trondac's U-40 Rod Bond; however, the PC-7 you have would work fine, just don't use it to glue the rod tip guide on the blank. To glue to tip guide on the rod, use Gudebrod or Flex Coat stick ferrule/rod top cement (it is the kind you melt) because if you need to replace the top guide, it will come off with a little heat.

Use unbraced double foot casting guides for strippers in size 12 and 10 (one of each) and then use quality chrome plated or TiCh double foot snake guides in sizes 4,3,2 for the other guides. You will find the double foot snakes easier to wrap on the rod than the single foot ones on your first rod.

Use nylon size A thread in whatever color suites your fancy. Instead of using epoxy rod thread finish on your first rod, I'd recommend using Trondac's U-40 rod finish because it is a single part urethane that holds up very well and is easier to apply than the epoxy types for your first rod. The down side to this wrap finish is you need to put 3 or 4 coats on the thread wraps with about 6 hours between coats minimum. But bubble problems are pretty much non-existant.

There are many quality component dealers, including Rod Builder's Workshop, one of the site sponsors who is in your area.

I second the advice on hard chrome snake guides. The snakes, as it turns out are easier to line up on the rod and are more secure. Go light on the epoxy for the wraps and the u-40 gets my vote here as well. A couple of things on mounting the handle to the blank: 1- make sure it's a fairly snug fit, taper the hole to match the rod blank and dry fit it often as you don't want to remove too much material. 2- when it comes time to glue it together, use the 2hour 2 part epoxy becuse it creates a waterproof seal and gives you plenty of time to work. Fill the entire inside of the handle with epoxy, tape the top of the blank section where the handle will mount and slide the puppy right down the handle. Use a bunch of lint free paper towels to clean up the blank. It works great and no you won't ruin the blank, no chemicals no abrasives just good old paper towels.

what ever the rod finish the most important thing is to take the applying of the finish slowly. It's better to have multiple thin coats then one thick coat. The results are over whelming. Also a little bit of alcohol helps clean the rod finish mistakes, when applied VERY carefully.

I use hard foam arbors, and 5 min epoxy for the reel seat. I like that because it sets up while Im holding the seat and the blank in the right position and I donít have to worry about the reel seat wandering around the radius of the blank. For the handle I like to use rings, therefore I use a 90 min epoxy so that I have plenty of time to apply the epoxy on the blank, each ring, clamp it all down and clean up the mess before it starts to set. For the wraps I use Flex Coat Light in at least two thin coats. I have not tried the U-40 products but I intend to at some point. With all these epoxies I warm both parts before mixing. With the exception of the 5 min epoxy I use on the reel seat, I have a mixing machine made with an 18 rpm motor which I use to mix the other epoxy and finish. I find that this results in a hard, consistent, bubble free finish. There is an article in Rod Maker Magazine on epoxy mixers.

With respect to guides. There are so many different guides made I think its hard to make an informed decision. I have been using the Hopkins Halloway double foot striping guides and double foot snakes almost exclusively. They look good and I figure there has to be a good reason for a company like Sage to be using them on their rods. They are also relatively inexpensive. I have used the high end TiC and SiC guides, and aside from the added advantages of corrosion resistance and resistance to wear I havenít noticed a difference. My opinion is that if you keep your line out of the mud and clean your rod and line regularly corrosion and wear wont be a problem.

U-40 for the reel seat. Great stuff, almost like butter and sets up slowly allowing you to make last minute adjustments. Measure where the reel seat and cork will be, then lightly scuff the blank w/ a scotchbrite cloth.

For the guides DO NOT USE EPOXY. Get some FlexCoat or a similar product. Some use Permagloss Urethane - I've done it, but flex coat's the best. The guides are held in place w/ the thread and the epoxy just provides a waterproof seal and keeps the threads from unraveling.

http://www.rodbuilders.org has tonnes of rod building sponsors to get stuff.