Description:

One of the best easy trad routes you'll ever do. Right of center. Take a rather ordinary corner up to an anchor. Then traverse right over into the immaculate white book (good name, huh?). Follow it up an amazing crack. Placements galore. When you reach the book's end, swing over to the right and belay. Then finish left by traversing the mini-roof (undercling) and up the slab.

Immaculate White Book Ascent

I just lead this route over the weekend and I thought it was a great route. However, I am a new leader and I did think that 5.5 was a little bit of a sandbagged rating - it's harder than that - so beware if you're a new leader. I made it fine, but it was challenging. I found that it took a lot of smaller (< BD#1) protection - and the anchor takes smaller protection as well - so rack accordingly. There are no bolts at the first belay station and it only supports two people at a time. The first pitch crux is 75% of the way through the pitch where the lieback crack disappears for 3 to 5 feet. I followed on the second pitch - it has a similar crux - that's more difficult than the first crux - where the lieback crack disappears for 5 feet or so. On the 2nd pitch we went straight up then left on the undercling and then up a crack to top out. One of my climbing partners who lead the 2nd pitch felt it was more difficult than pitch 2 - particularly placing pro while traversing the undercling. We were told we could walk off the right side - but it looked like dicey class 4 - so we decided to rappel. There are two relatively new rappel bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 that get you down to another couple bolts/chains near the top of pitch 1. The granite quality here is excellent.