At this time, road #7601 ( access for Colchuck and Stuart lake) can be driven almost to the trail head parking area . A foot of snow over the road stopped all cars 1/8 mile before the trail head sign. The trail to Colchuck lake has been well travelled and is nicely packed down. We walked this with out snowshoes or problems to and past the junction at 2 1/2 miles. At the junction we took the Right fork towards Stuart lake, passing 3 large flat marshy areas going over a couple snow bridges and crossing Mountaineer creek on a log. About a mile from the fork in the trail, we trended to our left keeping the East fork of Mountaineer creek on our right while travelling in a SouthEast direction through open forest staying level at 4600' for some time. After the level section, we started to gain some elevation finally emerging from the trees. Once we were out in the open, we were able to see Sherpa peak to our Right, with Colchuck peak on our Left, and Argonaut peak standing front and center, offering us a full view of our route up the NE couloir.

NE Couloir

At the base of the couloir, we strapped on our crampons, pulled our ice axes out, and donned our helmets. The angle was a constant 45/ 50 degrees for more than a 1000' of gain, which offered perfect snow for kicking steps with only a couple icy spots that needed to be negoicated.

In the NE couloir

At the top of the couloir, we turned Right and climbed up a snow gully that covered a 5.6 graded rock climb that has belay/ rappel stations.

Snow Gully

Exiting the gully we side hilled the steep North slope staying below some ridge points to a small notch before the final summit block.

North slope

After the minor notch, the top was now in sight and boy did it look sweet! With a couple easy scramble moves the route went through a tunnel then turned back on it self finishing with a rock step to arrive at the top about 6 hours from the cars.

Argonaut Route line

Here is where we all soaked in the views, took pictures, ate, rested, and signed into the Mountaineers summit register.

Mount Stuart

Cashmere, Mountaineer Creek

We had summited just in time because the weather that had been quite pleasant for our ascent was starting to quickly deteriorate, and with it brought a howling cold wind.

We decided for two running belays down and across the North slope followed by a hand line assist in the gully back to the main couloir. Down climbing the couloir to the exit at its base we all took a final break and packed away our gear. Now the snow had softened substantially and we happily descended 2000' with a sitting glissade to the level area in the woods.

fun way down

A weary 2 hour march brought us back to the cars by 8:00 p.m, ending the day roughly more than 12 hours car to car.

--------------"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short

--------------"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short

Just wondering, did you happen to snag any pictures of the Ingalls Creek valley from up there? I'm considering doing an overnight there in a couple of weeks... just wanted to see what the snow is like. Thanks.

Sorry, I did not take any pictures South of the peak. My only excuse was that any taken would have been washed out since it would be facing the sun. But, regarding a snow conditions/ beta stand point, I should have and will in the future.

Beverly/turnpike and Longs pass are still very snowy. If you start the trail from Highway 97, you should be able to go quite far up the valley.

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