If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

How to make your own pole floats? - help

Hi,

I am very interested in trying to make some of my own robust, strong carp floats but donít know where to start or what I need to try and make a few. I am not looking at making profit and am only doing it so I can tinker with different shapes and sizes etc for my needs. This would also be something to do in my spare time with the satisfaction of catching a few fish on them.

So what I would like to find out is:

Step by step guide on what to do and what order to do things in?

What materials will I need to buy and where from (body, stem, tips, eyes, paint/varnish etc)?

What tools would I need to make them?

How much do the materials cost?

How long does it take to make a float?

How hard are they to make?

Any additional info that would help me would be very useful.

Scanned the net and canít find any info so thought I would try on here as I know there is members like MO and ACKOO on here that make some very good floats that are known across the match scene already.

∑ Step by step guide on what to do and what order to do things in?
For this question I suggest you look at my website. Although itís in Dutch the pictures will speak for themselves! Ronald Hammers dobberbouw

∑ What materials will I need to buy and where from (body, stem, tips, eyes, paint/varnish etc)?
You need to obtain some very strong materials for carpfloats like; glassfibre, carbon, synthetic for floatbodies, coils or strong eyes from stainless steel. Most of these items you can order at Stonfo or at MCM through your local tackle shop. For glue I would suggest Pattex profix PU. It holds materials very good. I have never had complaints of stems pulling loose! Varnish can be yachtpaint or better still the G8 from Vosschemie. We continentals use it with total satisfaction.

∑ What tools would I need to make them?
You can make this hobby as expensive as you want, starting with a mini drill like a Dremel or Proxxon. If you want to create floats with very centric holes for the stems and bristles youíd better get a mini lathe. To create the same floats over and over again a CNC lathe is best (but very expensive!) The shape of your floatbodies is digitally stored in a computer. Youíll need sandingpaper as wel if you want to create a float by hand.

∑ How much do the materials cost?
Not much! When you order your materials better ask your dealer for prices. I can create floats which will cost me Ä 0,42 using the best materials. (Itís the time you spend on making them that makes a float expensive.)

∑ How long does it take to make a float?
I can create about two or three in an hour. (time to let the paint/varnish dry is not included)

∑ How hard are they to make?
At first you have to get some experience so in the beginning a few floats may not become what you had in mind. But it is great fun to do and nothing compares your feeling of satisfaction when you catch your first fish with them.

What is the best way to create the body's for floats? do i buy rounds stripsof balsa and cut to size then use sandpaper or is there better/easier ways of doing this? What size balsa would you start with to do this?

Roha i will try my best to understand as much as i can though still hard in some areas to see whats going on even via a web page translater. thanks for heads up.

hello roha,
the g8 do you brush it or dip it and what is the drying times
mark

Hi,

The G8 right out of the 'bottle' is as fluid (thin) and clear as water so I take just the amount varnish I need and let it rest a while (20-30 minutes) so it becomes thicker. After that I put it on with a brush. You can also dip your floats in it but I don't want to get my bristels wetted by the varnish.
After about an hour or so the varnish wil not be sticky anymore and after 24 hours you can fish with the floats.

G8 is the hardest varnish by far. You can't compare it with yachtvarnish.
The G8 was originally used by Ludo Rosseel. (excellent Belgium floatmaker) and I got it from him.
Normally the G8 is used to be mixed with fine gravel and put on stairways in stores so the customers will not slip and fall.
I hope you can obtain some in the UK as well!

What is the best way to create the body's for floats? do i buy rounds stripsof balsa and cut to size then use sandpaper or is there better/easier ways of doing this? What size balsa would you start with to do this?

Roha i will try my best to understand as much as i can though still hard in some areas to see whats going on even via a web page translater. thanks for heads up.

thanks
Stephen Giles

The best ways of making bodyís for your floats depends on what you really want. Do you want to create the same body over and over again so you have exact copies of your floats?
Or do you want to experiment with different kinds of bodyís?
For making identical float bodyís youíll need some kind of profile (shape) of the float body and a copier. (In a CNC lathe you can store all profiles digitally. Thatís the way they do it in factories)
Identical floats are a Ďmustí in the match scene and itís nearly impossible to get exact the same shape done by hand!

However; Starting to make bodyís by hand and sanding paper is far more fun because you can be more creative. Each float you make will have itís own Ďidentityí if you know what I mean. The size of balsa or synthetic depends on the diameter and size of the float you want to make. (Itís not wise to use a 20mm dowel for a 0,20 gram float.)

And,.. oh..oh.. the difficult Dutch language! (It sometimes is a problem to us Dutch people too.) Next to the North Sea it must be the greatest barrier between our countries.
When you have particular questions donít hesitate to mail me. Iíll do my very best to translate things for you.

How to make your own pole floats ?

I also asked the same questions a while ago. Roha was very helpful and informative. His floats are beautifully finished too. He said to me that there are no secrets regarding float making as far as he is concerned, and any questions to him will be answered fully and honestly. This was very true. Hope you are keeping well Roha, did you finally get your new lathe?
Regards, Roachman.

As a "very amateur" float maker, my thoughts are that unless you use a consistent grade/density of material, (balsa etc) and a replicated size and shape, you will rarely get shot loadings accurate. Roha uses a profiling system on his lathe, which goes a very long way to get consistent float bodies.