Tuesday, October 9, 2012

New long period swell at outer buoys....

New swell crossing Papa Buoy at 4-7 ft with long periods 19-21 seconds. This is from extratropical storm Maliksi which raced off the Northern Japan coast late last week, reformed under the Kuril Islands and developed into quite a solid fetch headed in our direction. Swell could be quite solid by sunrise Wednesday, expect head to possible double overhead sets at north facing breaks. Because this swell is coming from a long ways out - you can expect some waits between sets. Angle of approach about 298. Size will drop some on Thursday (as will period) but still pretty solid. Winds right now continue to look light for morning sessions - just a bit of west of northwest - but in the less than 5kt range. Low pressure storm system is just offshore today, and will drift southeast along the coast overnight. The northern branch of the jetstream is supposed to get pretty energized by the weekend and into next week - how far south that energy drops will determine how much rain we're going to get. Right now looks like we're on the southern extent of any precip - but an active pattern just to our north is taking hold. More swell will probably follow for next week but from a much steeper angle of approach. Plenty of surf the next few days. Good conditions. Cya in the water.