Glitzier places in the Grandview Heights area might get more attention, but Paul’s Fifth Avenue
has been dependable and affordable for 40 years.The mostly Italian dinner menu (breakfast and lunch
are also served) is extensive.

The Italian lentil soup ($2.25 a cup, $2.50 a bowl as a soup of the day) is well-done. Onion,
celery, carrot and an occasional miniature meatball complement the savory character of the brown
lentils.

The Manhattan-style clam chowder also deserves praise, with large pieces of clam, tomato, onion
and celery in a properly done broth.

The house dressing for the salad (like the soup, an option with each main dish) is a vinaigrette
that’s light on vinegar and with no discernible olive-oil flavor. The two dull tomato slices didn’t
taste like what you’d hope to get in Ohio when sampled at the height of the season. Curiously, a
post-season visit found better slices on the salad.

Daily specials are always available and might include appetizers such as green-bean fries
($4.50), prepared in a convincing tempura-style batter and sprinkled with white and black sesame
seeds. The horseradish-flavored dipping sauce works well with the plentiful beans.

Another special is the chicken saltimbocca ($16). A slice of provolone, which melts as the meat
is sauteed, holds the slice of prosciutto and fresh sage leaves onto the chicken cutlets.

The dish is properly done and served with a light cream sauce seasoned with sage. On the side is
white rice with a few wild rice kernels mixed in and a vegetable of the day, such as oiled green
beans or zucchini.

Sometimes a sandwich of the day is offered, such as the slow-roasted beef brisket that is sliced
and placed between pieces of light rye bread ($10, with lightly cooked fries). Horseradish sauce
and onions roasted with the meat help make this an interesting and attractive sandwich.

There are also many dried pastas with sauce options.

The Bolognese sauce is a well-balanced blend of ground meat, tomato and seasonings. Like almost
all of the pastas, it costs $12.95 and comes with soup or salad and decent hard-crusted bread.

The best showpiece for the Bolognese is with spinach, pine nuts, sweet peppers, mushrooms and
judiciously measured fresh-tasting garlic (“miller Florentine,” $12.95). The pastas of choice for
the excellent sauce are linguine or fettuccine.

The fruit pies ($2.95) are made elsewhere and baked on-site. The cream pies ($2.95) are made
here.

The apple pie is credible for the price; the filling of apple chunks outshines the crust. The
coconut-cream pie is also good for the price but hardly exciting. The cream layer is some type of
whipped topping.

A better option is the seasonal pumpkin creme brulee ($4.50). The custard has a good blend of
pumpkin and seasonal spices underneath the sugar glaze.

All selections on the modest wine list are available by the glass and the bottle.

There are two Italian dry reds: The dismal Chianti by DaVinci ($5.75) lacks aroma and has a
dull, harsh flavor and finish. The better option is the Valpolicella ($5.75), which is fragrant,
medium-bodied and well-suited for a meal.