Before the Warring States period of Chinese history (475–221 BC) having acupuncture treatment for cosmetic concerns was primarily a luxury, generally reserved for the Empress and the imperial concubines to initiate the healing process for rejuvenation and longevity as well as health*. Theory and treatment for aesthetic concerns can be found in the Huang Di Nei Jing (from the first or second century BC according to different sources). The Nei Jing describes the effects of age on the skin and appearance, conditions that relate to the aforementioned and techniques used to treat these including acupuncture, moxibustion, facial massage and qi gong. While laying the foundation of traditional Chinese medicine, the Huang Di Nei Jing also sets the stage for the formation of TCM cosmetology, though no one section of this Chinese medicine classic is specifically devoted to it. Pathological manifestions of the skin such as acne are discussed and their aetiology explained in the Sheng Qi Tong Tian Lun, a chapter of the Plain Questions in the Huang Di Nei Jing. The Nei Jing also describes the relationship between diet, health and appearance and has dietary recommendations, including the preparation of specific foods.

The first Chinese pharmacopoeia, the Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing (The Divine Farmer’s Materia Medica Classic) contains 43 herbal cosmetological references. The author, Shen Nong, is thought to have lived from 2737 BC to 2697 BC, his herbal knowledge compiled around 220 AD and then published around 500 AD during the latter Han Dynasty. Many other ancient Chinese sources and authors provide cosmetic prescriptions including the illustrious Sun Si Miao (581-682 AD) who included 105 mei rong formulas in his classic texts, Bei Ji Qian Jin Yao Fang and Qian Jin Yi Fang, as well as acupuncture and moxibustion treatments for cosmetic enhancement. The renowned Li Shi Zhen (1368-1644 AD) of the Ming Dynasty mentioned 270 cosmetic herbal drugs in his definitive and epic treatise, Ben Cao Gang Mu (Great Compendium of Herbs) which is said to be rivalled only by the Shang Han Lun in the field of Chinese herbology.

During the politically turbulent years of the middle and late periods of the Republic of China, the development of traditional Chinese medical cosmetology was arrested. In modern China however, mei rong is flourishing, in part due to the economic boom and rapidly increasing standards of living since the 1990s. Likewise TCM practitioners noticed with great interest when treating conditions like Bell’s palsy with local needling, that the surrounding area was visibly improved in the following ways: skin colour, texture, complexion, elasticity, sebaceous secretions, and the size and depth of wrinkles as well as the eyes becoming brighter. Currently you will find a mei rong department in most hospitals and universities in China.

* Doran V. An Introduction to Facial Revitalisation Acupuncture. The European Journal of Oriental Medicine 5(5).