March 08, 2015

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Adrift by David Myers had a rhythm, a tempo, an element lacking in many restaurants here.

While the small plates meets cocktails concept sounds ‘yawn’ on paper, and is reaching its saturation point in Singapore, there is this magic which makes Chef David Myer’s adventurous new venture a cut above the rest.

Marina Bay Sands has been on a roll in attracting celebrity chefs, from its existing Tetsuya Wakuda, Daniel Boulud, Wolfgang Puck, to David Thompson, Gordon Ramsay, and of course David Myers.

Chef David Myers has helmed Comme Ca, Pizzeria Ortica and Hinoki & the Bird in Los Angela, and incorporated his culinary expertise and his travel experiences in Adrift.

The mood upon entering can be electrifying. Okay, maybe not that intense, but it was at least upbeat. Beyond the wooden exterior laid a Ginza-inspired cocktail bar, the main dining hall with windows revealing a garden behind, and a private room with a vintage slant.

Food is Californian with a Modern Asian edge, such as King Crab Melt with Pimento Cheese ($35) – it’s their signature, Kagoshima Wagyu Beef with Onion Jam ($55), Foie Gras in Little Bahn Mi ($32), Cod with Mantou Bread and Chili Crab Sauce ($28), Arctic Char with Spiced Tomatoes and Curry, and Maine Lobster with Mochi and Shiso ($33).

As you have probably noticed, a meal here is a mini-investment from the wallet. Not cheap at all. The prudent diner may consider some of their ‘bar-bites’ overly priced.

While reviews have been lauding extremely positively about the food, I thought there were some exceptional items, some misses.

My favourite was easily the Crispy Baby Potatoes, with Seaweed and Parmesan ($13) which was proof that simple things could be done remarkably well. These little rounds things permeating with nori butter flavours were addictive. Chef called them “umami bombs”. Indeed.

The Grilled Yuba and Truffle Cheese ($12) which we were recommended, went in excess of cheese, and turned out to be demanding to ingest. The Kagoshima Wagyu Beef with Onion Jam and Ponza ($55) was decently tender, but didn’t excite.

We went back another day for Adrift’s desserts, and would be happy to give almost full scores for their brilliant execution.

If there is an award for “10 Best Desserts in Singapore”, the Caramel French Toast ($14) topped with Coconut Sorbet and drizzled with Kopi Syrup would be a shoo-in, for its pillow-soft texture contrasted with a caramelised crunch, and bitter-sweet syrup so very addictive like magic portion.

I must say I had my initial headaches with reservations: Multiple emails were bounced back, calls were hard to get through (once it reached “housekeeping department”), and during the final call – the service name asked for my name 5 times.

Having reviewed mutiple restaurants big and small in Singapore, I noticed one thing that Adrift had, but many F&B could be lacking: Service staff.

There were already three at the door, and several others attending to you in swift speeds. It has been a long time since I do not need to ask for water – it gets filled promptly. This was the rhythm I was talking about. There was energy in the people.

The mood felt New York-ish, achieved that appropriate balance between hip and stylishness, and would attract a specific segment of society. While ‘adrift’ could mean ‘wandering’, the direction of this Adrift, is clear and promising.