Published: Monday, June 1, 2009 at 4:30 a.m.

Last Modified: Saturday, June 27, 2009 at 12:19 p.m.

Snails and slugs are among the most bothersome pests in many garden and landscape situations. We may not even know we have these little friends until we see the silvery "slime trail" left from their traveling along on their muscular "foot." This muscle constantly secretes mucus wherever they go.

Both are found throughout Western North Carolina and feed on the leaves and flowers of many ornamental, vegetable and field crops. They are most damaging to tender, young crops in spring. Snail and slug damage on foliage usually appears between the veins and on leaf margins. Look for irregular holes with smooth edges in leaves as well as flowers.

Snails and slugs feed on a variety of living plants as well as on decaying plant matter. Damage in my garden is normally reserved for tender annuals like petunias and herbaceous perennials like hosta.

A good snail and slug management program relies on a combination of methods. The first step is to eliminate, to the extent possible, all places where snails or slugs can hide during the day. Boards, stones, weedy areas, and dense ground covers such as ivy are ideal sheltering spots.

Handpicking can be very effective if done thoroughly on a regular basis. To draw out snails, water the infested area in the late afternoon. After dark, search them out using a flashlight, pick them up (rubber gloves are handy when slugs are involved), place them in a plastic bag, and dispose of them in the trash; or they can be put in a bucket with soapy water and then disposed of in your compost pile.

You may have heard of the beer-baited traps have been used to trap and drown slugs and snails; however, they are not very effective for the labor involved. Beer traps attract slugs and snails within an area of only a few feet, and must be refilled every few days to keep the level deep enough to drown the mollusks. Traps are buried at ground level, so the mollusks easily fall into them. Snail and slug traps can also be purchased at garden supply stores.

Several types of barriers will keep snails and slugs out of planting beds. The easiest to maintain are those made with copper flashing and screen. Copper barriers are effective because it is thought that the copper reacts with the slime that the snail or slug secretes, causing a flow of electricity. Vertical copper screens can be erected around planting beds. The screen should be 6-inches tall and buried several inches below the soil to prevent slugs from crawling through the soil beneath the barrier.

Several types of snail and slug bait products are available. Baits containing the active ingredient metaldehyde are most common. Metaldehyde baits are particularly poisonous to dogs and cats, and the pellet form is especially attractive to dogs. Metaldehyde snail baits should not be used where children and pets cannot be kept away from them.

A recently registered snail and slug bait, iron phosphate (available under many trade names including Sluggo and Escar-Go), has the advantage of being safe for use around domestic animals, children, and wildlife and is a good choice for most gardeners. Ingestion of the iron phosphate bait, even in small amounts, will cause snails and slugs to cease feeding, eventually causing death.

For more information on gardening, you may contact the extension office at 697-4891.

<p>Snails and slugs are among the most bothersome pests in many garden and landscape situations. We may not even know we have these little friends until we see the silvery "slime trail" left from their traveling along on their muscular "foot." This muscle constantly secretes mucus wherever they go.</p><p>Both are found throughout Western North Carolina and feed on the leaves and flowers of many ornamental, vegetable and field crops. They are most damaging to tender, young crops in spring. Snail and slug damage on foliage usually appears between the veins and on leaf margins. Look for irregular holes with smooth edges in leaves as well as flowers.</p><p>Snails and slugs feed on a variety of living plants as well as on decaying plant matter. Damage in my garden is normally reserved for tender annuals like petunias and herbaceous perennials like hosta.</p><p>A good snail and slug management program relies on a combination of methods. The first step is to eliminate, to the extent possible, all places where snails or slugs can hide during the day. Boards, stones, weedy areas, and dense ground covers such as ivy are ideal sheltering spots.</p><p>Handpicking can be very effective if done thoroughly on a regular basis. To draw out snails, water the infested area in the late afternoon. After dark, search them out using a flashlight, pick them up (rubber gloves are handy when slugs are involved), place them in a plastic bag, and dispose of them in the trash; or they can be put in a bucket with soapy water and then disposed of in your compost pile.</p><p>You may have heard of the beer-baited traps have been used to trap and drown slugs and snails; however, they are not very effective for the labor involved. Beer traps attract slugs and snails within an area of only a few feet, and must be refilled every few days to keep the level deep enough to drown the mollusks. Traps are buried at ground level, so the mollusks easily fall into them. Snail and slug traps can also be purchased at garden supply stores.</p><p>Several types of barriers will keep snails and slugs out of planting beds. The easiest to maintain are those made with copper flashing and screen. Copper barriers are effective because it is thought that the copper reacts with the slime that the snail or slug secretes, causing a flow of electricity. Vertical copper screens can be erected around planting beds. The screen should be 6-inches tall and buried several inches below the soil to prevent slugs from crawling through the soil beneath the barrier.</p><p>Several types of snail and slug bait products are available. Baits containing the active ingredient metaldehyde are most common. Metaldehyde baits are particularly poisonous to dogs and cats, and the pellet form is especially attractive to dogs. Metaldehyde snail baits should not be used where children and pets cannot be kept away from them.</p><p>A recently registered snail and slug bait, iron phosphate (available under many trade names including Sluggo and Escar-Go), has the advantage of being safe for use around domestic animals, children, and wildlife and is a good choice for most gardeners. Ingestion of the iron phosphate bait, even in small amounts, will cause snails and slugs to cease feeding, eventually causing death.</p><p>For more information on gardening, you may contact the extension office at 697-4891.</p>