Achievements

"...the panels you creatively acquired..."Gee, don't they have Elections where you are?? ;)What a great use for old Trump Signs - creating and maintaining hot air!

"...Here in North Carolina the winters are pretty mild..."Well, that depends a bit as NC runs from thousands of feet up in them thar hills in Western NC to them grass flats and dunes at sea level on the Atlantic (East) Coast. We've had several weeks of overnight temps well below freezing.

Every BLACK FRIDAY Walmart and similar vendors offer an electric griddle for ten dollars (US) or so and we buy a couple because the "Non Stick" stuff does not stick to the aluminum griddle itself (where does it go!?).Thus, the old ones are available for tinkering and repurposing and, in this case, of a great shape and size for a cabinet heater. With a little effort, the Heat Control the comes with the griddle can be located outside the cabinet and the thermostat/controller within the cabinet. Then, the griddle would be powered or not according to the interior temperature and the temperature of the griddle governed by its factory controller - this the 'recovery time' could be adjusted accordingly. Though NEVER above the FLASH POINT of the chemicals stored within.

",,,noise and quick loss of temperature..."I must have known your dad as, in 1996 I rebuilt a bathroom and found the steel tub much much much cheaper than the Cast Iron alternatives. Before installing, I filled the void between the front and one tub wall with (Window & Door) expandable foam and ran rows of the foam along the underside of the remaining tubs walls (and bottom) so as to effectively 'coat' the tub's inside with insulating foam. The job was a bit messy, but the result was a tub that 'sounded' as sturdy as a cast iron version and held the heat better than either. Once the foam stuff sets up, you can trim it with a bread knife (or similar). With a Kitchen sink, however, you really can't use too thick a 'solution (save between the bowls of a double-bow sink) gi...

",,,noise and quick loss of temperature..."I must have known your dad as, in 1996 I rebuilt a bathroom and found the steel tub much much much cheaper than the Cast Iron alternatives. Before installing, I filled the void between the front and one tub wall with (Window & Door) expandable foam and ran rows of the foam along the underside of the remaining tubs walls (and bottom) so as to effectively 'coat' the tub's inside with insulating foam. The job was a bit messy, but the result was a tub that 'sounded' as sturdy as a cast iron version and held the heat better than either. Once the foam stuff sets up, you can trim it with a bread knife (or similar). With a Kitchen sink, however, you really can't use too thick a 'solution (save between the bowls of a double-bow sink) given the necessity of accessing the fasteners that secure it to the counter.Maybe some SPRAY-ON solutions?Design Engineering 050220 Boom Mat Spray-on Sound Deadeninghttps://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-050220-Deadening.../B001URKV0G Rating: 4 - ‎182 reviewsReduce unwanted road noise and vibration, even in hard-to-reach places. ... Kilmat 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, AudioNoise…. ... Design Engineering 050110 Under Carpet Lite Sound Absorption andInsulation, 24" x 70"….

Well, Thank you very much. It appeared that you selected a region on China - or my Geography teachers failed me. I appreciate the link and may indeed attempt to create such a tool.. If you combine the approach with Google or another Cloud . . . well, independence at last, great God almighty, independence at last! Attempt at humor

Thank you, I found the Thermaltake ST0005U-C on Amazon; as well as several others similar to Monllack USB 3.0 to IDE & SATA Converter External Hard Drive Adapter Kit 2.5"/3.5" Cable Multifunctional Hard Disk Adapter US Plug. May I safely assume that my laptops contain either 2.5" or 3.5" SATA Format HD? Or must I assume it could be, or could be an IDE or something else? I've four (or maybe five) laptops whose drives I would like to open to extract/copy/move the data off.I was hoping to purchase One Thing a ma jig that would handle whatever HDs I found in my laptops.Thank you again.

Wouid you please share details about, ins to such adapters? I think I need a set!

Got it USB 3.0 - Curious, if my 'puter only has USB 2.0 wi it make any difference having teh 3.0 rated transfer device?I noted 'we' have turned this Instructable into a bit of a special interest group / discussion group. I wonder if there is a "Computers 101" group already 'out there?'

"I assume the sata connector to the HDD end is standard" Makes sense, but what about power? "proprietary for every laptop model" Suspect it is for some - Always hesitate to say "all." . But the five or so laptops I have hanging about waiting to try accessing the HDDs to pull my data and wipe will remain until I can find a UNIVERSAL connection thing that will allow me to connect any (and all) of these drives to a USB port so I can copy off the old data.If you find one, lemme know!

I've several old laptops that have bitten too much dust. Each has a hard drive that MAY contain data I would like to have access to. I know that there are adapters to turn small format Hard Drives into USB Powered external Hard Drives and thought that would be a good way to test the Hard Drives from these old laptops to see if I could recover any data from them - then destroy them.It seems, however, that there are more than one type of drive in these laptops so there isn't a single adapter that will work with any/all small hard drives. Is there some sort of cable or device that is designed to connect (but not necessarily encase) different sized drives so they might be read and copied onto other drives or media?

All these Machine Made Projects are impressive. However, the design and execution left one significant feature half done. The work Height for the CNC orientation drops a foot or so relative to the work surface/table position.

Thank you for this. And the plan! Question: how did you determine the size(s) of the blocks? I have my idea, curious to learn if you used a similar approach.BTW, with Charismas down the road, these make very interesting gifts for the family wood worker - give her/him an EyeObie Belt Sander!

Wow, Peel and Stick contact paper! You did an excellent job with it! You have a future in furniture design!If you look at where you added the French Cleat to the (whatever do you call the black portion?) you might consider incorporating the cleat into the frame of that 'black portion.' By raising the position of that part of the cleat, you would raise the hanging point a couple of inches.

If you do decide to build a similar hanging desk, lighten the load! The desk is basically a Torsion Box and, as such, doesn't need all that 3/4" material. If you go down to the home store and look at (lift up, etc.) a hollow core door slab you will find it extremely sturdy because the 'skins' are supported by a lattice work inside. Sometimes this lattice is made of cardboard! If you look up Torsion Box Construction and adapt the principles therein to this project, you will have a sturdy desk that weighs a fraction of something built out of heavy plywood or MDF.As the desk itself is lighter, the desk then becomes capable of carrying that much greater load - if you make it twenty pounds lighter, you can use it for a desktop computer and still put less strain on the French Cleat.By t...

If you do decide to build a similar hanging desk, lighten the load! The desk is basically a Torsion Box and, as such, doesn't need all that 3/4" material. If you go down to the home store and look at (lift up, etc.) a hollow core door slab you will find it extremely sturdy because the 'skins' are supported by a lattice work inside. Sometimes this lattice is made of cardboard! If you look up Torsion Box Construction and adapt the principles therein to this project, you will have a sturdy desk that weighs a fraction of something built out of heavy plywood or MDF.As the desk itself is lighter, the desk then becomes capable of carrying that much greater load - if you make it twenty pounds lighter, you can use it for a desktop computer and still put less strain on the French Cleat.By the way, the French Cleat need not be a single continuous strip. One could create the same holding power/strength if a four foot long Cleat were divided into two or three sections - which might better accommodate the wiring.Of course, it is easier to route the wiring to an exit point away from (and below) the cleat in the first place.

Good points. I know I 'feel' the tilt and immediately back off without knowing at what point (degrees) I feel the tilt.' So an inclinometer might be something I could use to see if I've been 'over reacting' all these years! I wonder of you used a hard plastic tube (filled with sand to do the bend) . . . or knew a glass blower . . . Ignore the musings. It appears that the mower is equipped with Rollover Protection bars - as is my Kubota. The problem I worry about is it simply tipping over and catching me between the side and the cold hard ground. Regardless such musings good work on all counts, your friend has a friend indeed.

Looking at the tool you made to Calibrate the device, I wondered if that would suffice in and of itself! Good idea and execution. I need one for my Kubota Tractor!

Good point. I do wonder about the advisability of determining the tipping point of the machine while sitting in/upon it. With my tractor, my ears tell me when Im approaching that point (or at least, I make that assumption and go to level ground promptly).

First off - Great Job! Both the Build and the Instructable.Second - Love the phrase 'material based design' - been doing it all my 'dumpster diving' life!Question: It appeared that the radiator was two sections, I wondered if they could have been re-oriented ninety degrees (one to the other) so as to channel the exhaust gases left and right (to the exhaust vents at the top rear).Thanks for teh efforts at sharing.

"so you can see how the weight changes with time"Oh, come on now, we all know how our weight has changed over time ;)

1. Were those the smallest sensors you could find? 2. If you moved the display or eliminated it entirely, how small could you make the transmitting circuitry? (not looking for the theoretical limit, rather what you could do with the parts available - off the shelf - as was done here)

"Oh, use nails when possible"Funny, I would think SS Deck Screws would be preferable - esp if dismantling the project was a consideration.

Nice project. Curious to understand why you went with the fence pickets and then with two-by material for the rest. Given you tightened up the spacing, wouldn't deck boards have served as well as the two-by-six's? Use 2 bys on the perimeter and deck boards on the 'inside.' A fellow had a pool float project made of Pool Noodles that were 5' long. He joined them into 10' lengths with a (short) piece of rubber hose or PVC pipe. In this case, the long 'channels' formed by the spacing between your support beams/boards would serve to contain eight or ten of the pool noodles with a resulting increase in buoyancy - a floating dock? Or is the water level a constant in your pond?

It might prove worth your while to determine what your pool noodles are made of. With that information, you might find a suitable adhesive. "A pool noodle is a cylindrical piece of buoyantpolyethylene foam" Wikipedia Pick The Right Glue For The Job: How to Select Adhesives For Bonding Foam https://www.thefoamfactory.com

"This from Wikipedia" A source worth checking, of course. However no certainty that the information there is perfect. Best find an authoritative source or two to cite as primary sources when you can. In this case, the wiki worked.Then again, he could use PEX ;)

"Something else you might wanna consider is" English perhaps?It is also polite to link to or reference your sources. (Saves comments like the fellow who thought "... you started off incorrectly.") I like the following from https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techc..."The most common method of joining copper tube is with the use of a socket-type, copper or copper alloy fitting into which the tube sections are inserted and fastened by means of a filler metal, using either a soldering or brazing process. This type of joint is known as a capillary or lap joint because the socket of the fitting overlaps the tube end and a space is formed between the tube and the fitting. This space is called the capillary space. The surfaces of fitting and tube that overlap ...

"Something else you might wanna consider is" English perhaps?It is also polite to link to or reference your sources. (Saves comments like the fellow who thought "... you started off incorrectly.") I like the following from https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techc..."The most common method of joining copper tube is with the use of a socket-type, copper or copper alloy fitting into which the tube sections are inserted and fastened by means of a filler metal, using either a soldering or brazing process. This type of joint is known as a capillary or lap joint because the socket of the fitting overlaps the tube end and a space is formed between the tube and the fitting. This space is called the capillary space. The surfaces of fitting and tube that overlap to form the joint are known as the faying surfaces. Tube and fitting are then solidly joined using a filler metal that is melted into the capillary space and adheres to these surfaces."The filler metal is a metal alloy that has a melting temperature below that of either the tube or fitting. The melting point of copper (Cu) alloy UNS C12200 is 1,981°F/1082°C. As such, the filler metals for soldering and brazing copper and copper alloy tube and fittings must have melting temperatures below this temperature."The basic difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature necessary to melt the filler metal. That temperature is defined to be 842ºF/450ºC by the American Welding Society (AWS) but is often rounded to 840ºF. If the filler metal melts below 840ºF the process being performed is soldering. Above that temperature, the process is brazing."Brazed joints are generally used to achieve higher joint strength or fatigue resistance. To accomplish this, filler metals stronger than those composed primarily of tin must be used. However, this increased strength generally comes from filler metals made of materials that melt at higher temperatures. The brazing temperatures for most of the brazing alloys used to joint copper piping systems (BCuP and BAg alloys see below) are roughly between 1,150°F/621°C and 1,550°F/843°C."The most commonly used brazing filler metal types, used to join copper tube and fittings fall into two distinct categories:BCuP Alloy (pronounced b-cup) - where the B stands for Brazing, Cu is the chemical symbol for Copper, and P is the chemical symbol for Phosphorous. Therefore, a BCuP brazing alloy is primarily a copper-phosphorous brazing alloy that may contain from 0%-30% Silver (Ag).BAg Alloy (pronounced bag) - where the B stands for Brazing and Ag is the chemical symbol for Silver. While there are other elements found in BAg alloys besides silver, the majority of BAg alloys may contain silver content of anywhere between 24% and 93%.

There's a song titled "Muddy River," no? And a Musician "Muddy Rivers?" And a Mississippi (Big Muddy) River. And at least on Song lyric 'muddy river.'Now we have a Muddy Rivers Table

I wonder, too, if keeping the form "WARM" with a heat source (NOT AN OPEN FLAME) below the work, would have had the effect of raising any bubbles to the surface / eliminating bubbles?I built a darkroom sink in 1971 using fiberglass resin to 'FLOAT' the bottom of the sink. As I recall, there were no bubbles. Nor can I recall ever doing anything to prevent them. I did embed a coin in the resin. I think the resulting color was a bit green. BTW, if you build such a sink, elevate the end with the drain before flooding the form with resin. Then, when you're done and the sink is leveled during the install, fluids will flow toward the drain.

Never fail! It's not a failed attempt at a River Table, rather a successful attempt at a burnt resin finish resulting in a Muddy Rivers Casual Table - Or a Smithfield Bacon Breakfast Table.As often as not, the art we celebrate may be nothing like the intention that gave it birth - and almost certainly not exactly what was planned.

Well, in this case, I think the "One learns more from one's mistakes than success' " might prove more apt.And, isn;t it all to often the fact that the lesson learned from one's enemies is the last learned?

"Place your miter saw in the center of the middle shelf with the handle sticking out the front for easy movement and then attach using long screws or lag bolts depending on the size of your mounting holes."One concern would be the plane of the saw bas relative to those of the tables at either side. When cutting long stock, so much of the material is supported by one or both table surfaces that it is difficult to position the material flush to the saw base and back supports.It may be wise to elevate the saw table relative to the extension(s) so that LONG STOCK is not influenced by 'distortions' in the side extensions/tables.I tried building mine precisely in the same plain - then the weather changed and the wood followed suite!Man proposes, God disposes.

With Plywood, the grain alternates roughly 90 degrees with each layer, thus about half of the thickness of any strip, has the grain running perpendicular to the length of the piece thus amenable to such a bending.The Design is an unfaithful copy of one done using solid wood (Oak?) strips which is a very old approach to 'curving' wood forms that offers the benefit of greater strength than might be had using strips of plywood in such a configuration. See the inspiration/original at https://youtu.be/1frUIQcIg8U

Well, if it is practical you find impressive, how about my other invention "Lowpost Bubble Wrap?" By filling the bubble wrap with helium (they would not approve the Hydrogen-filled prototypes) we were able to reduce the postage costs to nil.

With a 1/4" od 5/16" straight bit, you could use this jig to create the slots used to adjust a jig like this! Then, you wouldn't need Fender Washers!Nice instructable. Using the click-lock flooring - brilliant! I knew there was a reason I saved that extra flooring.By the way, I used the excess kitchen flooring to finish the toe-kicks in our last kitchen - worked very well.

Mine said "Watch the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves." Had a thought. One of the rails that guide the router can move to allow adjusting the dado width. The support that lines the jig up with the board to be 'dadoed' is fixed and square on one end/side. The other/opposite support 'hangs out there' unless the board being cut is wide enough.However, if you cut slots on the one side of the rails, you could slide the 'other/opposite' support flush to the board being 'dadoed.' IMHO, this would make the jig more stable.BTW - the bit I see in your router appears to be a half-inch roundover. Ar you using a top-bearing bit to cut the dados? Since your router base has a 'flat' spot, guiding it using the base might prove problematic. With a tpo bearing bit, the edg...

Mine said "Watch the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves." Had a thought. One of the rails that guide the router can move to allow adjusting the dado width. The support that lines the jig up with the board to be 'dadoed' is fixed and square on one end/side. The other/opposite support 'hangs out there' unless the board being cut is wide enough.However, if you cut slots on the one side of the rails, you could slide the 'other/opposite' support flush to the board being 'dadoed.' IMHO, this would make the jig more stable.BTW - the bit I see in your router appears to be a half-inch roundover. Ar you using a top-bearing bit to cut the dados? Since your router base has a 'flat' spot, guiding it using the base might prove problematic. With a tpo bearing bit, the edge of the bearing is 'at' the edge of the bit (same plane) so setting the guides to the width of the board meant to fit into the dado, gives you a dado the width of the board used to set teh jig.

Of course, there is no need for threads at all as all the fittings shown are available as SLIP fittings. The Elbows (as we call them in Texas) can be glued in place and the other two fittings would not need to be secured at all (given the design shown).I would look into the idea of installing a PUSH TO CLOSE switch on the 'handle' part of the foam cutter positioned so that it could be operated by a thumb. With such a switch, one could never forget to turn it off when not in use!

"The threads can be made by . . ." buying risers instead of pipe. Orbit Brand (example) http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-jmii6ithyk/products/310/images/553/38083_2__76815.1489797262.500.659.jpg?c=2 a "1" x 12" PVC Sprinkler Head Riser Pipe Irrigation System Nipple - 38232" They come in various lengths from about 3" to 24"

Two 4x8 sheets of 3/32" "doors skin" plywood will weigh less than half that of a 1/2" sheet of plywood. If you've never built one (torsion box), it may be hard to imagine the difference in weight - you can get an idea by checking out the hollow-core doors at Lowes or Home Depot or search Torsion Box Designs on the web.Yes, the labor is a bit more intensive - creating an interlocking lattice work of interior 'ribs' is different but simple and straight forwards - and the results are worth the extra planning and effort.Everything you build into that van increases the load and thus increases the cost of operation. You could achieve something similar by gluing the plywood to foam boards instead of the interior lattice work - possibly not as strong, but enough for the inte...

Two 4x8 sheets of 3/32" "doors skin" plywood will weigh less than half that of a 1/2" sheet of plywood. If you've never built one (torsion box), it may be hard to imagine the difference in weight - you can get an idea by checking out the hollow-core doors at Lowes or Home Depot or search Torsion Box Designs on the web.Yes, the labor is a bit more intensive - creating an interlocking lattice work of interior 'ribs' is different but simple and straight forwards - and the results are worth the extra planning and effort.Everything you build into that van increases the load and thus increases the cost of operation. You could achieve something similar by gluing the plywood to foam boards instead of the interior lattice work - possibly not as strong, but enough for the intended application.

"The bed platform"Needn't use 1/2" plywood - way too heavy! Try that 5/32?? "Door Skin" stuff at Lowes or HD and glue up a torsion box - assuming you wanted it that thick, use the 2x2's but cut them down to 2x1" for the perimeter and 2 x 1/4" for the interior supports and use more of them. Actually, you could use corrugated cardboard for the interior. The weight reduction will prove significant and the strength will be equal or better. Then, if you use an air mattress and fill it with helium, just think of the gas you'll save!

Yes, I understand that. Lord knows how many times I've balanced the tires on a vehicle. There is also an issue of the plane of the spinning disc - think of balancing tires and weights on the inside and outside of the wheel. Since we can assume all Iphones are the same dimensions printing a 'disc' with two, three or four Iphone pockets seemed a very simple approach.I suspect that balancing with any other counter-weight could require considerable trial and error, no? Then there's the issue of how to fasten the counter weight where it needs to be as well.Hey, what happened to all those folks who couldn't understand the value of building this contraption?It is not always the result - often it is the process!

Ah, yes, a counterweight. Now, where might you get something that weighed in at exactly as many grams as an Iphone? Hmmm, It is a puzzlement, Yes?If I had Autodesk, I wonder if I could design a case that would hold an Iphone and provide a hole to allow the camera to 'see' while the Iphone was in its holder. Maybe a case that could hold three Iphones arrayed about a central point on some sort of circular disk with the openings of the three holders oriented toward the center of the disk so that, as the disk spun, centrifugal forces pressed the Iphones securely into their respective pockets. Three, three, three simultaneous silly spinning videos at once! By its nature the disk could be printed such that the central point was thicker - thick enough to support an armature that would 'lock' i...

Ah, yes, a counterweight. Now, where might you get something that weighed in at exactly as many grams as an Iphone? Hmmm, It is a puzzlement, Yes?If I had Autodesk, I wonder if I could design a case that would hold an Iphone and provide a hole to allow the camera to 'see' while the Iphone was in its holder. Maybe a case that could hold three Iphones arrayed about a central point on some sort of circular disk with the openings of the three holders oriented toward the center of the disk so that, as the disk spun, centrifugal forces pressed the Iphones securely into their respective pockets. Three, three, three simultaneous silly spinning videos at once! By its nature the disk could be printed such that the central point was thicker - thick enough to support an armature that would 'lock' into the printed disk as it fit the depressions printed into the 'front' of the disk and was held tightly by a reversed threaded nut on the rear. Similarly, ridges radiating outward from the center (both faces) printed into the disk (maybe a Carbon Fiber Printer?) would add rigidity w/o adding weight.Now, the best way to project these images . . . Well, first, let's see how your kickstarter works out before I design the projector.

Wow! Worth the effort to make one! Patent the design before we see them with a Made With Cheap Labor Label!Given the thickness of the project, maybe a French Cleat to hang it? Just rout out a DADO(?) along the back and finish off the top with the dovetail bit used to create the hanger/cleat.By the way, that little green Planer Accessory Material Catcher is cool. I didn't see that option when I bought my DeWalt 735!A couple of edits: "Do your best to stay on the line when cutting," Stay on the Waste Side of the line, No? "(there's 6 of them)" or (there're 6 of them) or, better yet (there are 6)Really good job and video. Arbortech owes you! Next time, when to give the model number of a product Add "SF" or "FS" to the model number/description &q...

Wow! Worth the effort to make one! Patent the design before we see them with a Made With Cheap Labor Label!Given the thickness of the project, maybe a French Cleat to hang it? Just rout out a DADO(?) along the back and finish off the top with the dovetail bit used to create the hanger/cleat.By the way, that little green Planer Accessory Material Catcher is cool. I didn't see that option when I bought my DeWalt 735!A couple of edits: "Do your best to stay on the line when cutting," Stay on the Waste Side of the line, No? "(there's 6 of them)" or (there're 6 of them) or, better yet (there are 6)Really good job and video. Arbortech owes you! Next time, when to give the model number of a product Add "SF" or "FS" to the model number/description "TurboPlane Model FS-9 from ArborTech." That way, when the customers call, chat or write because they "can't find it on the web site," the vendor will know whence the orders are coming from.

- Detailed Plans: https://gumroad.com/diycreators- (6) 2 by 12 Southern yellow pine - (5) 2 by 3 lumber - (6) 1 by 4 lumber - 1/2in dowels - lots Screws - Wood GlueSo, yes there is a B.O.M. and No, there isn't either as the writer offers but two of the three dimensions expected!

If you look at the approach again and, then imagine what you are suggesting, the answer should be obvious. The 4x1" slats, would need to be almost as long as the couch is wide and, thus offer precious little support to a mattress - not raise the question "Where would one find a mattress that long! Short answer "No!"

Very well done video and build.Heavy, however!As to the screws at the back, simply fasten and clamp the pieces together then, instead of drilling for the screws, drill for half-inch dowels. Then glue it up and pound 1/2" dowels to line it up and hold it together. Cut the dowels a bit long, then sand them flat after the glue dries. No screws showing, no screw holes to cover/fill. One small addition to the 'pull-out' slats might be a piece of 1" stock fit to the underneath of each P-O Slat such that it would catch on the front support rail when the front was pulled out to 'The Max.' If you wanted to remove the P-O section completely, you would simply tilt it up to clear the 'stops.'

First thing I thought of was adding a capacitor - before I read the Instructable through! Then I saw, in the comments where someone else had the same thought and it was hashed out. It appeared that it could be done, though it was argued, not to any great effect. Admittedly, I was under the impression that such an addition might 'extend the blinks.' Not provide 'continuous illumination," but extend the 'on' time created with each pass of the magnet.I did not realize that the magnet would generate pulses of opposing polarity with each pass. I suspect the addition of a diode would eliminate the second (reverse) pulse as one suggested would be required to add a capacitor.I love the idea of recycling the relay - brilliant! I missed the discussion on the differences between a 12VDC and 5...

First thing I thought of was adding a capacitor - before I read the Instructable through! Then I saw, in the comments where someone else had the same thought and it was hashed out. It appeared that it could be done, though it was argued, not to any great effect. Admittedly, I was under the impression that such an addition might 'extend the blinks.' Not provide 'continuous illumination," but extend the 'on' time created with each pass of the magnet.I did not realize that the magnet would generate pulses of opposing polarity with each pass. I suspect the addition of a diode would eliminate the second (reverse) pulse as one suggested would be required to add a capacitor.I love the idea of recycling the relay - brilliant! I missed the discussion on the differences between a 12VDC and 5VDC version as to which might be the most effective. Good job.

I went to the HD website and priced the materials at $73 before tax. Then I priced a new door slab: Masonite 30 in. x 80 in. Textured 6-Panel Hollow Core Primed Composite Interior Door Slab Model# 16474 $31.98. (The smooth door was about four bucks less). *None the less, your craftsmanship is to be envied. One note about the foam filler/sealant, however. I would think the Window and Door variety the first choice for such an application as the Standard stuff has been known to move window and door jabs as it expands (making it difficult (impossible?) to open the window or close the door.) It also does well in moist environments (adhesion-wise) I've been told - so, spritzing a little water into the cavity to be filled should make for an even firmer fix.* replacing the door would require ...

I went to the HD website and priced the materials at $73 before tax. Then I priced a new door slab: Masonite 30 in. x 80 in. Textured 6-Panel Hollow Core Primed Composite Interior Door Slab Model# 16474 $31.98. (The smooth door was about four bucks less). *None the less, your craftsmanship is to be envied. One note about the foam filler/sealant, however. I would think the Window and Door variety the first choice for such an application as the Standard stuff has been known to move window and door jabs as it expands (making it difficult (impossible?) to open the window or close the door.) It also does well in moist environments (adhesion-wise) I've been told - so, spritzing a little water into the cavity to be filled should make for an even firmer fix.* replacing the door would require matching and mortising hinge locations.

"Aidan said will always remember this."Poor grammar - "Kaleb, Camden and I will always remember this."Because one would not say "me will always remember this."Neat project.Not sure you needed to cut that 'ring out of another 34" square sheet of plywood, however. Why not use simple strips?Also, why no sealant between the tarp and the top of the plywood it was folded onto?I've got an old leaf blower and some plywood . . . hmmm

"logic, base on the expected weight of each user,"Yes, that was the best solution I came up with as well.If you place the screen up high enough, a user could select his (or her) colored button or digit I suppose.Difficult to implant a chip in a customer via Amazon, so I had to scrap that idea right off the bat.

Wood working Contest! Or, did I read that wrong?The WiFi aspect of this project piqued my interest. I have long labored under the impression that data from a device such as this one you've created (and the two commercial versions linked to - thanks) could be sent to a Google Apps Database on the net so that daily readings, for instance, might be stored over time and analyzed at will.Is this essentially what you've programmed?I read the specs provided by the Xiaomi and Lenovo units you provided links to. They seemed to depend upon a proprietary app as opposed to the sort of generic solution using freely available software tools I was hoping might be done.Have you thought of how to program the device such that two or three uses might use the same scale? Husband and wife, perhaps. How to f...

Wood working Contest! Or, did I read that wrong?The WiFi aspect of this project piqued my interest. I have long labored under the impression that data from a device such as this one you've created (and the two commercial versions linked to - thanks) could be sent to a Google Apps Database on the net so that daily readings, for instance, might be stored over time and analyzed at will.Is this essentially what you've programmed?I read the specs provided by the Xiaomi and Lenovo units you provided links to. They seemed to depend upon a proprietary app as opposed to the sort of generic solution using freely available software tools I was hoping might be done.Have you thought of how to program the device such that two or three uses might use the same scale? Husband and wife, perhaps. How to fix it so the device distinguished between the two and uploaded the data to the respective web app.

The Geometry/Symmetry is outstanding - eye-catching. Color scheme does not hurt either!Your wrote a line that caught my eye as well: "Again, if you only overlap the posts by the max depth of the circular saw, you can avoid this step."Frankly, if the saw's depth of cut is less than one-half the thickness of the lumber, you cannot create a half-lap joint at all.Check to see if your saw will take a 7.5" blade some may take an eight-inch blade. Put the post up an sawhorses with the 'mating end to your RIGHT. Set the depth, then make the 'left-most" cut, then and other a quarter to 3/8" toward the end of the post and repeat until the next cut would be off the post.Take a hammer and hit the pieces left standing and they will fall away. Then take a chisel and 'clean u...

The Geometry/Symmetry is outstanding - eye-catching. Color scheme does not hurt either!Your wrote a line that caught my eye as well: "Again, if you only overlap the posts by the max depth of the circular saw, you can avoid this step."Frankly, if the saw's depth of cut is less than one-half the thickness of the lumber, you cannot create a half-lap joint at all.Check to see if your saw will take a 7.5" blade some may take an eight-inch blade. Put the post up an sawhorses with the 'mating end to your RIGHT. Set the depth, then make the 'left-most" cut, then and other a quarter to 3/8" toward the end of the post and repeat until the next cut would be off the post.Take a hammer and hit the pieces left standing and they will fall away. Then take a chisel and 'clean up' the lap by removing what remains. Search Cutting Half-Lap Joints on YouTube several examples there.

Well, I don't have the Engineering answer either. But the torsion box is (pound for pound) more rigid than a solid piece of the same material as a Steel Tube is more rigid than a Steel Rod.

"The key is getting that box beam rigid enough." Look at Torsion Box Construction. I've built large (door sized) platforms using light weight 'Door Skins' over a torsion box interior with great results. The interior pieces I used were 1/4" x 1" x Length and I used 1" x 1" x Length for the 'outside' edges.

Don't get that MDF near a humid environment or store it wrong! Better to use OSB Flooring than MDF if you must ignore the Torsion Box idea. His torsion box was a really simple version. He could have made one as wide as his DeWalt planer bed - 12" or so. Then he might have used six thin strips of birch plywood evenly spaced within: Look at: http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/05/15/build-a-... for one large T-box and, the way I built mine here: For something that is just 12" wide, all the materials can be scaled down accordingly.

Always a good idea to do some research before making such a sweeping statement. Similar structures may go by different names in different nations, city states, counties or even towns. In the instant case, it may be worth noting that, in Scotland They call Haggis 'food!.'So I went to get a definition because structures for the 'express purpose' of growing trailing vines or (trailing) flowers are called trellis' where I grew up. Here's what I found: A pergola is an outdoor structure consisting of columns that support a roofing grid of beams and rafters. This roofing grid may be left open or covered so as to create an area sheltered from the elements. Pergolas may be freestanding or attached to a house.In order to gain a better grasp of the definition for "pergola," it is helpful...

Always a good idea to do some research before making such a sweeping statement. Similar structures may go by different names in different nations, city states, counties or even towns. In the instant case, it may be worth noting that, in Scotland They call Haggis 'food!.'So I went to get a definition because structures for the 'express purpose' of growing trailing vines or (trailing) flowers are called trellis' where I grew up. Here's what I found: A pergola is an outdoor structure consisting of columns that support a roofing grid of beams and rafters. This roofing grid may be left open or covered so as to create an area sheltered from the elements. Pergolas may be freestanding or attached to a house.In order to gain a better grasp of the definition for "pergola," it is helpful to compare and contrast it with other outdoor structures with which it is sometimes associated, including: Arbors, Gazebos, Trellises, Lattice (or "latticework"), Carports. https://www.thespruce.com/what-is-a-pergola-2131097

The builder here did NOT USE GLASS, he used clear plastic. In Florida, Home Depot and LOWES have plastic especially designed and intended for such exterior canopys.Check your Building Codes as you will want to consider WIND as well as drizzle when construction such improvements to your residence (lest, when you go to sell, the buyer's lender will demand it be rebuilt to code or removed as a condition of lending!If you do decide to ignore the last bit of advice, at least consider that, with the pitch to the thing intended to carry the rain away from the house (good idea), it will create a sheet of rain water at the end away from the house unless you include a gutter and downspout.As to the vines, be careful what you wish for and grown against your home's exterior walls. Some vines can ...

The builder here did NOT USE GLASS, he used clear plastic. In Florida, Home Depot and LOWES have plastic especially designed and intended for such exterior canopys.Check your Building Codes as you will want to consider WIND as well as drizzle when construction such improvements to your residence (lest, when you go to sell, the buyer's lender will demand it be rebuilt to code or removed as a condition of lending!If you do decide to ignore the last bit of advice, at least consider that, with the pitch to the thing intended to carry the rain away from the house (good idea), it will create a sheet of rain water at the end away from the house unless you include a gutter and downspout.As to the vines, be careful what you wish for and grown against your home's exterior walls. Some vines can be most destructive, getting between siding and structure - even getting into and damaging mortar joints.

Ah, so it's a crook you are? You do realize eBay can read your confession, right.

In the descriptions, it appears that you are using the term 'particle board' to refer to Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Absolutely NO WAY is Particle Board suitable for damp (much less wet) areas or use out of doors (much less in a lake!).OSB, on the other hand, can stand exposure to water provided it has an opportunity to dry. However, if it suffers constant exposure to the elements, it will not survive as long as the two-by Pressure Treated lumber used (you did use pt, right?) for the framing.I noticed you pulled the barrels to the center of the platform, leaving the platform over-hanging the barrel ends at each side/end. This is not the most stable configuration. If you want to keep the 10 x 7 dimensions, move the barrels flush to the ends and leave the 'gap' in the center of the craf...

In the descriptions, it appears that you are using the term 'particle board' to refer to Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Absolutely NO WAY is Particle Board suitable for damp (much less wet) areas or use out of doors (much less in a lake!).OSB, on the other hand, can stand exposure to water provided it has an opportunity to dry. However, if it suffers constant exposure to the elements, it will not survive as long as the two-by Pressure Treated lumber used (you did use pt, right?) for the framing.I noticed you pulled the barrels to the center of the platform, leaving the platform over-hanging the barrel ends at each side/end. This is not the most stable configuration. If you want to keep the 10 x 7 dimensions, move the barrels flush to the ends and leave the 'gap' in the center of the craft. Or cut the craft down to fit the barrels tightly all around.As to the metal straps, the first tip was correct as the the best way to fasten the strapping. However, I would look for PLASTIC strapping - given the submerged application. The straps are not holding much - the framing keeps the barrels from moving laterally and the water keeps them from falling off the frame (and, when on the lake, the lake holds them up tight!).. I would think that the bow and stern should parallel the sides of the barrels as opposed to the ends as (I suspect) the FLAT ends create more drag then would the ROUNDED barrel sides.If I can get hold of enough small barrels, I'll copy your basic design to use as a floating platform on my pond.

Neat trick. Do you know he GENERIC term for the type of concrete you are using? Or the mix?That you can pour it to create a vessel is unique. Years (48) ago, doing ceramics, we would carve a it of Styrofoam (I think) to serve as the shape of the void, cover the Styrofoam with the clay, then (once the clay had begun to set up - but before it could dry and SHRINK) we poured acetone over the Styrofoam and it melted away. This allows for a variety of options to shape the void. With a mix that sets up as quickly as yours (and does not appear to shrink as it cures) I suspect you might find this approach worth trying.

After posting that, I spent some time looking at your site. There I found several approaches to creating hollow forms as well as some very interesting ideas and projects.Adding 'white glue' to concrete has been 'round a long time. In the seventies, I cemented some faux stones to the walls of my kitchen (OMG, what was I thinking!) and they suggested adding some sort of 'white glue' to help hold the (somewhat heavy) stones to the vertical wall surface. Since, I've see similar products at Lowes, HD, etc. 'shelved' in the (pardon the pun) Concrete Aisle. Woodworking 'yellow' glues might work as well - Titebond III is supposedly weather proof once set.I liked the Ghoul on the Steps creation. Ripe for some of the new LED Lighting that allows a single bulb to produce a variety of colors, pa...

After posting that, I spent some time looking at your site. There I found several approaches to creating hollow forms as well as some very interesting ideas and projects.Adding 'white glue' to concrete has been 'round a long time. In the seventies, I cemented some faux stones to the walls of my kitchen (OMG, what was I thinking!) and they suggested adding some sort of 'white glue' to help hold the (somewhat heavy) stones to the vertical wall surface. Since, I've see similar products at Lowes, HD, etc. 'shelved' in the (pardon the pun) Concrete Aisle. Woodworking 'yellow' glues might work as well - Titebond III is supposedly weather proof once set.I liked the Ghoul on the Steps creation. Ripe for some of the new LED Lighting that allows a single bulb to produce a variety of colors, patterns and 'effects.' Next Christmas, look to the Displays for likely candidates - then wait ''till 12/25 or 1/3 to shop the Seventy-Five Percent Off Sales!As you pointed out, one could hide several bulbs and such inside that figure - even a MOTION SENSOR and/or an outdoor speaker.Great ideas you have, excellent execution.

toilet bolts are fine, I suppose. However, they do sell T-bolts for this application - search for "POWERTEC QTB1002 Tee Bolt" (or T-bolt) on Amazon and elsewhere. They don't come with the break-away feature found on the brass Toilet bolts. They also come in 1/4" and 516" inch diameters and are rather 'standard' bits for jig building.As to Gorilla Glue to fasten the runner, any yellow wood glue will do better. The yellow glues do not EXPAND. For the application in question, the dimes are a good trick; then set the TS fence to form a stop and apply the glue to the top of the runner (in the slot) and lay the jig on it using the TS fence as a lateral guide. Then, lift the jig (the runner MAY come up with it) and move the runner back and forth (lengthwise) along the jig ...

toilet bolts are fine, I suppose. However, they do sell T-bolts for this application - search for "POWERTEC QTB1002 Tee Bolt" (or T-bolt) on Amazon and elsewhere. They don't come with the break-away feature found on the brass Toilet bolts. They also come in 1/4" and 516" inch diameters and are rather 'standard' bits for jig building.As to Gorilla Glue to fasten the runner, any yellow wood glue will do better. The yellow glues do not EXPAND. For the application in question, the dimes are a good trick; then set the TS fence to form a stop and apply the glue to the top of the runner (in the slot) and lay the jig on it using the TS fence as a lateral guide. Then, lift the jig (the runner MAY come up with it) and move the runner back and forth (lengthwise) along the jig to even out the glue and get it 'tacky.' Then, put the runner back in the mire slot and position the jig on top as before and apply weight.In this manner, the glue will set a bit quicker and more evenly - if there is any squeeze-out, wipe it off while you've the opportunity!Nice jig. Good job and good instructions and resource detail.

While I have no idea what this is or what it is intended to do, I am amazed at the complexity of the project - it reminds me of hearing a symphony and imagining how anyone could sit down and write all those parts for the orchestra A mechanical Bach!

Given the way a standard toilet is designed to flush and re-fill. this solution would not save/re-use any water - though it would add grey water to the water used to flush your toilet.If you look into the toilet tank, you will find float mechanism that controls the fill valve for the toilet so that the incoming water shuts off once the tank has been filled to the proper level.If you were to over ride this float (hold it down, for instance), the water would continue to flow into the tank. At some point the water level would rise above the elevated drain tube designed to prevent over-filling should the float valve fail.Thus, after you flush your toilet, the tank is automatically re-filled. If you were to use this basin, the water running down its drain would fill the tank a bit more than...

Given the way a standard toilet is designed to flush and re-fill. this solution would not save/re-use any water - though it would add grey water to the water used to flush your toilet.If you look into the toilet tank, you will find float mechanism that controls the fill valve for the toilet so that the incoming water shuts off once the tank has been filled to the proper level.If you were to over ride this float (hold it down, for instance), the water would continue to flow into the tank. At some point the water level would rise above the elevated drain tube designed to prevent over-filling should the float valve fail.Thus, after you flush your toilet, the tank is automatically re-filled. If you were to use this basin, the water running down its drain would fill the tank a bit more than the level set, then run down the overflow tube into the toilet and out the toilet drain.Another short-coming is the implicit requirement that one use this toilet-mounted sink to wash their hands and brush their teeth. While, I suppose, not necessarily unsanitary - definitely less than appealing.Although, as my wife reminds me, they use a similar combination fixture (usually out of stainless steel) in many prisons.

SEARS sold a CRAFTSMAN ROUTER CRAFTER MODEL 720:25250 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ7NYL0HnsQ that you may find on Craigslist for less than fifty dollars.It is designed for using a router to cut the grooves - worth it if you're wanting to make more than one such piece oar need to make 'duplicates.'This, however was a good instructable. Might also try using a Dado Blade if the wider groove was intended.Also thought that, were the wood dowel's OD close to the ID of a PVC pipe (or fittings) the rest could be designed to allow the dowel to be held in place inside a section of PVC pipe.

I thought that 'flooding' the work piece with an epoxy resin, letting it fully cure and then using this router approach might keep the pieces in place during planing and provide a filler in the process so that the finished project had no gaps between individual pieces of wood/branches, etc. After planing, another coating could be applied to 'finish' the surface nicely - perhaps a poly urethane.

I noticed the router base was made of three-ply. If you added some one by support strips to the top of each edge they would stiffen the base without interfering with the process. I suspect pressure on the router would tend to lower the bit in the center of each pass if the base were to 'flex.' You might also look to Birch Plywood as it is built with many layers and is less likely to flex.Then, mount your Belt Sander on a similar sled to finish the job! (Hmmm, how to do that!!??)

Harbor Freight Tools has them.8 Pc Bolstered Screwdriver Set (hex at end of handle). Mayhew Select 66306 Cats Paw Screwdriver Set, 10-Piece (Amazon) More Money Hex on Shank. See GRIP http://gripontools.net/product/grip-grand-rapids-industrial-63072-go-thru-hex-bolster-screwdriver-set-8-piece/ However, adding a six-inch wrench for extra torque may simply help destroy a cheap Phillips Head screw quicker. It might serve for someone with a limp wrist to reach the torque required to set a screw in place, To release a 'frozen' Slotted or Phillips Head screw, the extra torque may prove more harmful than helpful. One of those hand-held Impact Drivers might be better as it keeps the bit into the screw head as the force is applied to the screw head. Usually, it just takes a little bit of turnin...

Harbor Freight Tools has them.8 Pc Bolstered Screwdriver Set (hex at end of handle). Mayhew Select 66306 Cats Paw Screwdriver Set, 10-Piece (Amazon) More Money Hex on Shank. See GRIP http://gripontools.net/product/grip-grand-rapids-industrial-63072-go-thru-hex-bolster-screwdriver-set-8-piece/ However, adding a six-inch wrench for extra torque may simply help destroy a cheap Phillips Head screw quicker. It might serve for someone with a limp wrist to reach the torque required to set a screw in place, To release a 'frozen' Slotted or Phillips Head screw, the extra torque may prove more harmful than helpful. One of those hand-held Impact Drivers might be better as it keeps the bit into the screw head as the force is applied to the screw head. Usually, it just takes a little bit of turning to 'break' the screw (or bolt) free. If in metal (Machine Screw), WD-40 and similar products should be applied before attempting to free a frozen screw. Heat helps as well. Brute force applied to a frozen screw is as likely to destroy the screw head as release the screw - then, you'll need another tool!

"Better Homes and Gardens Leighton Twin Over Twin Wood Bunk Bed, Mu ... Walmart $179 "I got our last one from Big Lots. Apparently, they no longer carry that model. I recall it was about $180 before tax and w/o mattresses. Apparently prices in CA are higher and inflation has hit the Bunk Bed market!

If the tenons on the side pieces were split in the middle of the long dimension and the receiving 'mortise' through the end panels were cut (like a dove tail - narrow in the inside and wide on the outside) the sides could be fitted snugly and then secured by inserting the long wedge into the slot.In the image I found, two wedges were employed horizontally. If you imagine a single wedge inserted vertically you'll get a 'picture' of what I attempted to describe above.Easier written, I suppose, than programmed into a machine!I assume that, if I had access to a CNC machine, I could cut the through mortises precisely so the wedged side was so many sixteenths wider than the other side with the required angle such that, once the wedge was driven in, the side panel wold break before the tenon p...

If the tenons on the side pieces were split in the middle of the long dimension and the receiving 'mortise' through the end panels were cut (like a dove tail - narrow in the inside and wide on the outside) the sides could be fitted snugly and then secured by inserting the long wedge into the slot.In the image I found, two wedges were employed horizontally. If you imagine a single wedge inserted vertically you'll get a 'picture' of what I attempted to describe above.Easier written, I suppose, than programmed into a machine!I assume that, if I had access to a CNC machine, I could cut the through mortises precisely so the wedged side was so many sixteenths wider than the other side with the required angle such that, once the wedge was driven in, the side panel wold break before the tenon pulled loose

OK, I see what you were suggesting.I was thinking that the CNC machine could cut tapered slots for the side rails - maybe 2-4 degrees) - and the tenons on the rail ends could be slotted to accept a wedge that would lock the tenon into the side piece.Disassembly would not be as easy or 'tool less,' of course. Getting the wedge out - well, that would require skill and patience. Then again, I've had a couple Bunk Beds in my time. I bought them, assembled them, sold them and watched the buyers take them apart and home!

That was my first thought. Admittedly, I've no access to a CNC Machine capable of handling a 4x8 sheet of plywood - thought eh Baltic Birch comes five foot wide (&sq) as I recall. I was thinking that, if the depth of the surface was equal or less than the height of the table structure, a simple panel could be used for the top (perhaps a torsion box panel to keep it light and strong) such that it stored in a track behind the table. And, if one were to insist upon something complex and creative, the CNC support might be designed to rise up when in use and lower itself when a simple bench top was needed.The problem with the machine/flat surface approach is the nature of a Flat Surface and their inevitable attraction to all things not otherwise fastened down in the shop.From my perspect...

That was my first thought. Admittedly, I've no access to a CNC Machine capable of handling a 4x8 sheet of plywood - thought eh Baltic Birch comes five foot wide (&sq) as I recall. I was thinking that, if the depth of the surface was equal or less than the height of the table structure, a simple panel could be used for the top (perhaps a torsion box panel to keep it light and strong) such that it stored in a track behind the table. And, if one were to insist upon something complex and creative, the CNC support might be designed to rise up when in use and lower itself when a simple bench top was needed.The problem with the machine/flat surface approach is the nature of a Flat Surface and their inevitable attraction to all things not otherwise fastened down in the shop.From my perspective, the investment in the CNC would demand it be protected as well as accessible (for tooling changes, adjustments, and such) at a comfortable level. In my case, it would likely prove to be the most expensive tool I ever bought for my shop and might warrant a room of it own ;)

Impressive build. Thank you for sharing.I think you had better put a cover plate on that duplex outlet lest someone from the Canadian Fire Department sees this page and turns you in for maintaining an electrical fire hazard. ;)What is that can thing (w/?-mark)?Please show the 'chimney' - where does it go? (exit the room?)I did not find a video on this page. I, too, would like to see drawings and views of front, sides, back.

I have a couple of old HFT Panels to install and appreciated hearing about the 'balance point' here. Essentially, reading your presentation and the comments got me off the dime!Lucky me - a neighbor has a 4" steel pole he dug up (concrete and all) which is mine for the taking - off to a great start!Thanks

" It broke the first time I used it"I missed that bit - I suspect I was overly impressed by the half-inch stock chosen!I always save my receipts and have no hesitation to return any defective item - then, again, I've a HFT outlet close by. I returned some masking tape last week - exchange for a 'fresh roll' that came in different packaging. I suspect the stuff I bought was from another vendor and they'd had complaints about it - and, so, switched.I looked on You Tube and found several folks using the HFT device with varying levels of success - including two instances where they adapted a hand-held pipe threader to replace the 'ship's wheel' that comes with the tubing bender.and a hydraulic jack to eliminate the manual pressure screw!Given the device provides the basic geometry...

" It broke the first time I used it"I missed that bit - I suspect I was overly impressed by the half-inch stock chosen!I always save my receipts and have no hesitation to return any defective item - then, again, I've a HFT outlet close by. I returned some masking tape last week - exchange for a 'fresh roll' that came in different packaging. I suspect the stuff I bought was from another vendor and they'd had complaints about it - and, so, switched.I looked on You Tube and found several folks using the HFT device with varying levels of success - including two instances where they adapted a hand-held pipe threader to replace the 'ship's wheel' that comes with the tubing bender.and a hydraulic jack to eliminate the manual pressure screw!Given the device provides the basic geometry and a template, it would seem worth the money as a 'starter.' The dies were said to be less than ideal and 'packing sand' in the material was suggested in one instance (or two). Some initial 'slop' was removed with a washer, etc.If one is intent upon completing a one-off or a first project, it would seem to be worth trying one out - if returns wee but a short drive, of course.If, on the other hand, one is intent upon manufacturing - well, then the investment in a more robust and dependable solution would be justified.I was not taking 'a shot,' just offering a perspective from one absent your skills and equipment with no need to bend anything at the moment ;)

Then, again, for the (less than the) price if the 1/2" aluminum plate, there is HFT.https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736....With a 25% Off coupon $135 Plus Tax, Or, if in a hurry, use the 20% off coupon and get one for $144 Plus Tax.

Ten, again, for the (less than the) price if the 1/2" aluminum plate, there is HFT.https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736....With a 25% Off coupon $135 Plus Tax, Or, if in a hurry, use the 20% off coupon and get one for $144 Plus Tax.

BTW, if you do this again, look for a steel tube for a mount! A bit tougher to drill into and such, but stronger, longer lasting than wood and less susceptible to most termites ;)If you find a section with and ID = the OD of the main mast, you can fashion a sleeve that will allow mounting the tilt mechanism such that it can be rotated about the main mast and (with a set screw) fixed in one position, then another as the season demands.