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Millermatic Vintage

07-04-2013, 09:25 PM

i bought this mig welder back in march put a new high/low switch on it, new liner and consumables and got C/25 mix on it with 0.35 wire.
I am surprised at how thin of material you can weld with it once you get it tuned in good it welds nice soft arc start with hardly any spatter i think i have around $650 in it with a good tweeco 2-1/2in ground clamp

I still use my MM200 regularly, even though I have an XMT304 with a real nice feeder. Good machines. Mine welds very nice using straight CO2, ,which makes it cheaper to operate, and the bottle lasts longer.
Mine came from the guy that taught me to weld before he passed away. It probably had a million miles of wire run through it before I got it. I have run many spools through it, spray arced, used the ray gun (spoolmatic1), and run 023 -045 wire through it in 70s-6 as well SS. I did replace the capacitors in it a couple years back, as well as the thermal fan switch. It just keeps on pumping out the DC amps without complaint.

Comment

I still use my MM200 regularly, even though I have an XMT304 with a real nice feeder. Good machines. Mine welds very nice using straight CO2, ,which makes it cheaper to operate, and the bottle lasts longer.
Mine came from the guy that taught me to weld before he passed away. It probably had a million miles of wire run through it before I got it. I have run many spools through it, spray arced, used the ray gun (spoolmatic1), and run 023 -045 wire through it in 70s-6 as well SS. I did replace the capacitors in it a couple years back, as well as the thermal fan switch. It just keeps on pumping out the DC amps without complaint.

Millermatic Vintage/Millermatic 200

I have heard a couple guys say they are close to the same machine but the vintage does have a high/low range switch

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MM210 is a 210 amp machine, and the Vintage is rated for 250 amps, but puts out 300. I bought my MM210 in 2004, and had mentioned here and at Hobart Weld Talk that I wish I could find a Vintage. A Miller factory rep contacted me about a couple available in College Station, but when I called the dealer, they wanted list price. It was a discontinued unit, and I declined. I wish now I had made the drive and haggled with them, because you rarely see any one selling theirs.

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i was told by a rep at lake welding that the regency has the same insides as a MM200 but he is the only person i have heard this from, one member posted on here the ground is really touchy on the vintage and he is correct wether or not the MM Vintage and the MM200 are the same besides the high/low switch VS. the high/low plug change on the MM200 I have no idea but this thing really has some brass on high range but the ground has to go I am gonna cut the old clamp off and solder the wire an inch or so and have a good terminal crimped on the tweco

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MM210 is a 210 amp machine, and the Vintage is rated for 250 amps, but puts out 300. I bought my MM210 in 2004, and had mentioned here and at Hobart Weld Talk that I wish I could find a Vintage. A Miller factory rep contacted me about a couple available in College Station, but when I called the dealer, they wanted list price. It was a discontinued unit, and I declined. I wish now I had made the drive and haggled with them, because you rarely see any one selling theirs.

the Vintage may be a better machine but the MM210 is a very nice machine I welded in a shop with one for 17 or 18 months and the one job i did was 1/2inch filling corners 7 or 8 inches on coin box's and never had to sand any the 210 is a real nice welder

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i was told by a rep at lake welding that the regency has the same insides as a MM200 but he is the only person i have heard this from, one member posted on here the ground is really touchy on the vintage and he is correct wether or not the MM Vintage and the MM200 are the same besides the high/low switch VS. the high/low plug change on the MM200 I have no idea but this thing really has some brass on high range but the ground has to go I am gonna cut the old clamp off and solder the wire an inch or so and have a good terminal crimped on the tweco

I used to solder the cable ends too, I stopped doing it after they started to fail. It creates a high resistance joint, which then starts too heat up during use. Eventually the solder fails completely and it starts arcing between the solder and the clamp. I have by now cut off every solder joint I did due to failure. Crimpping/ball screws provides the most reliable joints.

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I used to solder the cable ends too, I stopped doing it after they started to fail. It creates a high resistance joint, which then starts too heat up during use. Eventually the solder fails completely and it starts arcing between the solder and the clamp. I have by now cut off every solder joint I did due to failure. Crimpping/ball screws provides the most reliable joints.

thanks for the tip i have never done it on a ground for the welder just speaker wires i never even give it a second thought on the weld ground now i won't solder it,

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Tweco clamps come with a thin piece of copper that you wrap around the stranded wire. You should be able to find some shim stock at a hardware store to use.

I recently had to re-terminate a plug. The connection was getting warm. I had tinned the copper with solder before tightening it down. Tinning was a mistake as has been discussed here. I will not do that again. I cut a strip from a piece of copper tubing to use. It was a little soft. Will try copper pipe next time.