IntroductionPet birds are totally reliant upon us for the proper
environment and its maintenance for their well being. If the situation is
unsatisfactory they are unable to fly elsewhere-it is our total responsibility,
and a great one, as the life of a living creature is in our hands. Poor care can
lead to sickness and death. Consideration must be given to the cage, the
surroundings and all activities in that area. Birds are social animals and
require a rich environment to do well. Birds learn to relate to people, and
actually, when living in a cage situation, need people for socialization. Talk
to the bird, whistle to it or sing to it. It cannot live well without
socialization and interaction.

In the past birds have been considered to
be of low intellect since their brain is tiny and has a poorly developed
cerebral cortex (well developed in man). However, birds have demonstrated in
test after test that they are capable of highly intelligent behavior, sometimes
surpassing the abilities of mammals with greatly superior cortical development.
Thus a pet bird should be considered more than merely an ornament. Adequate
environmental stimuli should be provided for their intellect as well as
interaction/affection for their emotional needs.

The Environment of
the BirdI. The Cage

A.Space/Size- It is the bird's "home" and should
be pleasant as possible. The cage should be of the proper size for the variety
of bird. Ideally speaking, no cage is large enough; however, gigantic cages are
not necessary. The cage is the place to house the bird when the owners are away
to keep it safe from harm. The bird should spend large amounts of supervised
time outside of the cage so the cage should be of a comfortable size during the
periods when it is being caged. There should be adequate space for exercise.
Room for multiple perches is important in small birds, as they tend to flit from
perch to perch, especially finches and canaries. Large birds benefit from
adequate room and more than one perch to enable more activity in the cage. There
is the potential for injury if the cage is too small. In addition, a cage of
improper size can lead to battered wing tips as well as damage/fraying to wing
and tail feathers. It is truly a shame to see the damage done to the beautiful
tail of a macaw if it is placed in an inadequately sized cage.

B.
Cage Construction- The cage should be constructed of a material suitable for
the type of bird. It must be of sturdy construction for the larger birds as they
can easily dismantle a cage designed for a smaller bird. Proper bar spacing is
very important, particularly when a smaller bird is placed in a large cage. Too
wide of bar spacing could lead to escape or worse yet, trapping of the head
between the bars. It is a good idea to check the cage for any sharp edges or
projections that may pose a hazard. Larger birds will damage a cage over time so
it is recommended to be on the lookout for any loose or bent pieces of metal,
which could cause injury.

The material used in the construction of the
cage should be non-toxic. If the cage is wood or if is being 'home-made', make
sure that the wood has not been treated with wood preservatives as they have the
potential to be poisonous. Psittacine birds have a great need to chew so that
over time there is the potential that they may acquire sub-lethal levels of
toxic components. Some toxic preservatives include, creosote, bitumen paint,
naptha compounds and pentachlorophenol to name a few. If a preservative is to be
used be sure it is non-toxic. Avoid materials containing lead such as solder or
lead-based paint. That old cage from Grandpa's attic that had been repainted
might have been repainted with lead-based paint.

If galvanized metal is
present in any of the components of the cage be aware of "new wire disease"
which is a frequently encountered heavy metal poisoning caused by the zinc in
the wire. Galvanized wire and clips used to construct cages or galvanized
containers and dishes, which are not properly treated, are common sources of
zinc. The white rust on galvanized metal is also toxic. The brighter or shinier
the metal the more zinc is present. Scrubbing the galvanized metal with a brush
and a mild acidic solution (vinegar) may be helpful by removing some of the
'loose' zinc reducing but not totally eliminating the risk. Birds suffering from
new wire disease may show GI problems, drink and urinate excessively, lose
weight, exhibit weakness, anemia, cyanosis and seizures. A blood sample checking
for zinc levels can confirm the disease. Most often the diagnosis is made
through the clinical signs coupled with exposure to an improperly treated
galvanized surface. Clinically and radiographically zinc toxicity is difficult
to distinguish from lead poisoning. Fortunately the treatment for both
conditions is the same, CaEDTA, an agent that 'chelates' or combines with the
metal in the system to prevent further absorption.

C.
Height-There should be the availability to climb to a high perch, preferably
outside the cage. A bird feels secure in higher positions and likes to assume a
dominant position above where it is less threatened. Where does a frightened
bird go? As high as possible to reach a position of safety. After taming this is
less evident, except for instance, if strangers are around. With birds that are
very aggressive and dominant it may ease some of the aggression if the bird is
not allowed to achieve the higher 'dominant' position.

D.
Privacy-Some birds prefer having a retreat where it cannot be seen. Partial
covering of the cage or a box inside the cage may help. This is especially
important with new and nervous birds.

E. Freedom-Freedom is of
extreme importance for birds. It is recommended that definite periods of time
are set aside daily to allow the bird to have freedom outside the cage. Some
cages are designed so that they can be opened on top or allow the placement of a
'playground' on top of the cage. A perch or T-stand where the bird is outside
the cage and can interact is also recommended. Cages are needed but only to keep
the bird safe from dangers. Pet birds should be out of their cage whenever the
owner can be sure the bird is safe (wing clipping may be useful if a bird tends
to fly and get into mischief). Ideally, this would be when the owner is home and
would allow the bird 1-4 hours or more outside of the cage. Detrimental
consequences are seen in birds continually caged. The solitary confinement of
cages blocks opportunity for the types of stimuli needed for mental health.
Continuous confinement of cage life encourages abnormal behavior. Life becomes a
series of routine activities that become so well established that change is not
accepted. Birds in cages seldom have a chance to socialize/interact. Caging
narrows the bird mentally and thus has the effect of taking away its
friendliness, curiosity, activity and gradually dulls its inclination to
socialize, to eat a variety of foods and take proper care of its feathers. As a
bird becomes tame, the fear of people gradually diminishes and disappears. The
need to escape lessens. Birds out of their cage are more apt to become
extroverted. They happily greet people, perform tricks and show off. Feeding is
more natural and new foods are accepted more readily. All of the bird's
activities, feeding, vocalization, courtship and reproduction, sleep, body care
and resistance to disease flourish with freedom. When the bird becomes
self-confident and happy, the owner can realize its full potential as a pet.

II. Cage AccessoriesA. Perches-The bird spends its entire
life on a perch. Some thought should be put forth on providing the quality and
type best suited for the particular variety of bird. The goal should be comfort
and prevention of foot problems. The perches should be made of an easily
washable material and thoroughly cleaned regularly. They may either be scraped
or washed.

Diameter-A bird on perches of all the same diameter is
likely to develop foot problems. Birds do not form calluses on the bottom of
their feet in response to wear; rather the scales thin develop pressure sores
and eventually ulcerate leading to 'bumblefoot.' A variety of sizes seems
advantageous so there is more even wear on the feet. It is recommended to use
both large and small diameter perches. Flat perches are advantageous for smaller
birds. If a bird has thinning scales in the middle of the feet then the perch
diameters are all too small and larger diameter perches should be provided. If
the scales are thinning on the underside of the hock (ankle) then the perch
diameter is too large and smaller diameter perches should be used.

Types-Many different types of materials can be used for perches.
Common perches include plastic perches (usually used for small birds), dowel
rods, flat perches, swings, string, clothesline, padded perches, rope perches,
rubber tubing, PVC pipe and sticks or branches from outside. Branches from the
outside make great perches; however, they should be from non-poisonous plants
and well scrubbed. Care must be taken if the branches had been sprayed with
insecticides/herbicides, as even tiny amounts could be lethal to a bird. Due to
the risk of bugs the branches can be prepared by heating in the oven at 250
degrees for 10 minutes. Birds like to chew on their perches so bark is eagerly
peeled from branch type perches. If a bird is an avid perch chewer, homemade
perches can be made from untreated white pine wood from the hardware store or
lumberyard. It is a hard enough wood that they cannot chew through it too
quickly but not so hard that they cannot chew it at all.

Hard and
soft perches-Birds in the wild do not sit on the same diameter hard perch.
Be certain a soft perch is available, such as rubber tubing, rope or padding a
perch with paper towels or moleskin.

Non-rigid perches-They help
absorb the shock/impact of the bird's landing. Swings, branches/twigs, or a
hose/tubing composed of soft rubber or soft plastic are good non-rigid perches.
This is especially important in small birds that hop from perch to perch in a
frantic manner such as finches and canaries.

Perch
covers-Sandpaper perch covers do nothing for the bird, as they do not wear
down the nails and may actually be irritating to the feet.

Cement
Perches-These perches are helpful in keeping the beak and toenails from
becoming overgrown if the bird uses the perch. It is recommended that only one
of these perches be in a cage as its coarse nature could be irritating to the
bottom of the feet if the bird spends too much time on these perches. If cement
perches are used it is recommended to check the bottom of the bird's feet for
thinning scales or redness.

B. Cage papers-Paper is recommended
for use on the bottom of the cage, as the droppings are more easily monitored as
to their number and appearance. Carefully checking the droppings and watching
for any unusual changes is an effective means of early detection of possible
disease conditions. If corncob or wood shavings are used as bedding an extra
special effort should be made to periodically monitor the droppings, as they
will become lost in the bedding. Quite often this bedding is not changed
frequently enough and could be a source of infection. The bedding must be from a
reputable source. Dusty/dirty bedding may be a potential source for fungal
(Aspergillus) or bacterial (Klebsiella) contaminants.

C. Nesting
Material-Nesting material composed of fine threads should be avoided as it
may wrap around the toes or legs and acting as a tourniquet, cutting off the
circulation. This may lead to deterioration (necrosis) and loss of toes. The
birds most often affected seem to be finches and canaries. Cedar chips and other
aromatic woods in small nesting boxes may be hazardous. The aroma is too
overwhelming in a small area and can be toxic, possibly leading to death.

D. Seed and water cups-The cups should be made of an easily
washable material and manufactured from material that can withstand cleaning and
disinfection. Ideally they should be cleaned daily to minimize bacterial
contamination. The cleaning should be thorough; rinsing and merely running your
finger around the inside of the cups is not enough. Dirty water cups may be one
of the greatest sources of infection for pet birds. A clean and fresh source of
water is so very important for the health of pet birds. Water that stands for
several days will pick up bacterial contaminants from the surrounding
environment. The addition of vitamins (some which contain dextrose as an
ingredient) and other supplements to the water make it even more suitable for
bacterial growth. The condition will worsen when bits of food or droppings are
in the water. Too often cups have droppings in the food or floating in the
drinking water. The food and water cups should have a cover or be shielded so
that they are protected from fecal contamination. Strategic placement of the
cups in relation to the perches can also be accomplished to minimize this risk
as well.

E. Food-All foods and seeds made available to birds
should be clean, fresh and from a reputable source. Avoid spoiled foods and
moldy or dirty grains, which may be a possible fungal source. Food should be
stored in an area that is not damp or dusty. Aspergillus (a fungus) is a risk in
such an environment.

Mycotoxins are chemical metabolites produced by
various species of fungi that grow on grains and foodstuffs. The toxin produced
may be present even after the fungus stops reproducing. The amount of toxin
present varies due to many factors; quite often it may be concentrated on
certain areas of the grain causing 'hot spots'. The effects vary depending upon
the type of toxin, species of bird, nutritional and physiologic status of the
bird. A stressed bird on a poor diet is more likely to be affected than a
healthy one. It is difficult to identify the disease as it mimics so many other
conditions and quite often when the disease develops the offending food may no
longer be present making diagnosis difficult. There is no specific antidote,
rather prevent exposure as opposed to treating the condition. Special caution
with poor quality corn and peanuts as these are common sources of toxin
producing molds.

Many people refrigerate or freeze their seed/pellets.
The "cooking" of seeds/pellets is a controversial topic. It is believed that by
doing this, contaminating and potentially disease causing gram-negative bacteria
will be eliminated or at least reduced in the food material. Opponents feel that
the nutritional content of the food may be reduced. The temperatures recommended
are 1) conventional oven- 350 degrees for 10 minutes and 2) microwave- 2 1/2
minutes at the low setting. After cooking, the food should be properly stored.
Fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly to remove any residual
insecticide contaminants. Wash these foods better for birds than for human
consumption. Birds are very sensitive to any insecticide sprays that may have
been used.

Chocolate is not recommended for birds. It can result in
hyperactivity, vomiting, diarrhea, heart irregularities, seizures, dark colored
droppings and death. Progression of signs can be rapid if large amounts are
ingested. Excess consumption of salt can cause problems. Avocados have been
shown to be toxic for pet birds. At first only the pit was thought to be toxic
but some studies suggest that all parts, including the fruit, are toxic. The
actual toxin has not been described. There are several varieties of avocados
that are commercially available, which appear to vary in their toxic capacity.
Signs of toxicity include ruffling, increased respirations, vomiting, weakness,
anorexia and death. The progression is rapid; the lungs are especially affected.
Treatment is non-specific, mainly supportive care.

F. Grit- The
use of grit is another area of controversy. Its recommended use is only
periodically as it is not continually required in the cage. A bird will retain
grit in its gizzard and does not need to have it replenished daily. Actually pet
birds do not usually need grit for normal digestion. If grit is to be used do
not sprinkle it on the bottom of the cage (as it will become fouled with
droppings) and do not mix it in the food. It should be placed in a separate cup
so that its intake can be monitored. The problem is that sick birds (especially
with digestive tract disturbances) will tend to overeat grit and this could lead
to impaction. A bird that has an excessive intake of grit could indicate a
problem. Some people with sick birds have thought that they were still eating,
when in actuality they were eating only grit. A constant source of minerals is
required and plain grit is not that great of a source. Good mineral supplements
include, cuttlebone, mineral block, crushed eggshells, crushed oyster shells,
bones and commercial mineral preparations.

G. Cage Toys- Bird
toys should be suitable for the particular variety of bird. For some birds
having toys available is very important Large birds can easily dismantle or
destroy toys designed for smaller birds. Glass mirrors are hazardous to large
birds. Watch for sharp edges and hooks on toys as they may lead to severe
injury. Many birds have been impaled on hooks used to secure certain toys. Avoid
toys with bells for larger birds as they can easily remove the bell and have it
become lodged on the beak. For some reason the most frequent victim of this
mishap is the lovebird, perhaps due to their small size (provided with small
bird type toys) yet powerful beak. Certain toys contain lead weights. Some toys
that are safe for smaller birds have the potential to be dangerous to larger
birds as they may crack open the toy to expose the lead weight within (such as
the penguin toy). It is important to avoid cluttering the cage with excessive
toys and cage furnishings. Some cages are so packed with paraphernalia that it
is a wonder that the bird can move about inside at all and with that is a
greater risk for injury. Consider the following the following varieties of toys:
commercially available toys, bells (not for larger birds), swings, ladders,
bathing tubs, mirrors (not for large birds), dumbbells, bones and balls.

H. Chewing/chew toys- The beak of the bird grows constantly. For
example, a parakeet beak grows several inches a year. The beak is worn down by
eating, play or chewing activity. A bird that does not chew enough will have an
overgrown or excessively flaky beak. Examples of good chew toys include:
commercial chew toys, rawhide chews, cuttlebone/mineral block, lava rock,
branches from outside, cardboard, paper towel rolls (insert), wooden
clothespins, bones, pine cones, white pine wood (perches or scraps) and rope to
name a few.

I. Cage covers- These are important for the bird's
well being. A bird is a slave to light. Pet birds probably require the same
amount of light and dark that occurs in a natural day. Inadequate amounts of
rest will have the same effect that it has on humans. The bird should have at
least 8-10 hours of darkness every evening. Cage covers have two purposes: they
darken the cage in order for the bird to rest and help keep the cage warm if the
temperature drops at night.

III. The Environment Around the Cage

A. Location of the cage- Birds are generally happiest and do
their best in areas of activity. Place the cage in an active area of the house,
such as the family room. If the bird is to be kept in the kitchen, extreme
caution must be taken due to the dangers present (described in a later section).
Because of the hazards present it is preferable to keep birds out of the
kitchen. Direct sunlight is stimulating and enjoyable to birds; care must be
taken not to overheat them on a summer day. Outside walls, depending upon the
temperature outside and the amount of insulation, may cause undue exposure to
cold. Drafts that are tolerated by us will generally not bother a healthy bird.
However, a cold steady draft (such as an air-conditioning vent, etc.) could lead
to problems.

B. Temperature- Under their covering of contour
feathers, birds have a layer of down to keep them warm. A healthy bird can
tolerate a change of temperature of 10-15 degrees. Whatever is comfortable for
us is fine for the bird, as long as the change in temperature is not so sudden
that the bird cannot gradually acclimate. Sick birds chill readily and need to
be kept at 80-90 degrees. The normal body temperature of a healthy bird is
105-107 degrees.

C. Humidity- An ideal humidity for a bird seems
to be 30-50%.

IV Dangers in the Household Exercise caution
whenever birds are allowed freedom in the house. Many seemingly innocent common
household furnishings can be dangerous. If no one is at home to monitor the
bird, it is best to keep it caged.

A. Windows/Mirrors- Windows
and mirrors do not appear to be a barrier to flying birds. They may unwittingly
proceed headlong into them, possibly causing severe injury or loss of
consciousness. If the birds are able to fly free try to keep these surfaces
covered. To prevent this type of injury it would be a good idea to keep the
wings clipped.

B. Open Doors/Windows- The danger is obvious. The
loss of a pet bird is not uncommon due to this and can easily be avoided if
proper precautions are taken. Another dangerous situation is when a free-flying
bird has perched ontop of a open door (such as a closet or pantry) and the owner
is unaware the bird is there. Quite frequently when this door is unwittingly
closed, with the bird still perched there, serious feet and leg injuries occur.
Sometimes it may be an abrasion but more often than not fractures or near
amputations are the result. The owner should always have some awareness of where
their bird is during free flight.

C. Open Containers of Water-
The risk of drowning exists whenever there are open containers of water. Birds
have drowned by falling into sinks, commodes, pots of water, etc. An unfortunate
accident is when a bird tries to take a drink from a glass, loses their balance,
falls in and drowns. If birds are flying freely in the home, such containers
should be covered. Caution must be exercised whenever a bird is nearby and
someone is in the kitchen cooking or at the sink.

D. Ceiling
Fans- These can cause serious injury to flying birds. Surprisingly injuries
from this occur much more frequently than anyone would imagine. This type of
accident occurs most frequently in cockatiels, probably due to their soaring
nature of flight. The owner should be extremely careful whenever the ceiling fan
is in operation and a bird is flying freely.

E. Loud Noises-
Birds do have sensitive hearing so that loud noises can cause stress, leading to
lowered resistance to infection or emotional problems such as feather picking.

F. Other Pets in the Household- Attacks by other pets in a
household are a very frequent cause of injury for pet birds. A cat bite or cat
scratch can be lethal to a bird unless properly treated. The bacteria from this
type of injury can cause a systemic infection, so even if the bird looks fine
there can be severe disease developing. Veterinary care should be promptly
administered if it does occur for proper antibiotic therapy. Injuries due to
dogs are moreso due to blunt trauma or puncture wounds. Ferrets have been
occasionally responsible for causing the death of pet birds, even large birds
such as cockatoos. Even though a bird may be large it may not be able to defend
itself adequately against a tenacious attack. Jealous or aggressive birds may
cause severe injuries to other birds in the household. Beaks can be traumatized
or even ripped off. However, one of the more common injuries is of the toes. Toe
lacerations, fractures, and amputations are seen if a bird lands on the cage of
an aggressive bird or vice versa. So even if pets seem to live in harmony,
always be on guard for potential confrontations. Pets relish the attention of
their owners so that sometimes jealousy can motivate them to attack one another.

G. Cooking Food- Hot cookware, hot food and hot range tops can be
dangerous. Remember, even though a burner is turned off it still remains hot
enough to blister the feet of a bird for some time. A good rule is to keep the
bird away from the range while there is cooking going on.

H.
Potentially Poisonous Compounds for Pet Birds- Birds are particularly
sensitive to many chemicals due to their small size and very efficient
metabolism. Some compounds that have been shown to be toxic to birds include:
agricultural/gardening chemicals, insecticide/herbicidal sprays rodenticides,
mothballs (napthalenes) and denture cleansing solution. Salt in large amounts
could be toxic, however eating a potato chip or the grain of salt off a pretzel
is not toxic. Drugs in excessive quantities or improper usage of medications can
be problematic. Quite often people may use medications provided by their
veterinarian in higher than recommended dosages as they feel that it might be
more effective. Some people have used their own prescription medications on
birds feeling that it had been helpful in their illnesses. Cigarette butts
carelessly left about the home in ashtrays are dangerous as due to curiosity
birds have gotten into ashtrays, ingested cigarette butts and died.
Disinfectants can be dangerous when used in amounts more concentrated than
manufacturers recommendations. With disinfectants people feel that if a little
is good then alot is better and at higher concentrations some could be toxic.
Disinfectants can lie in pools on the bottom of aviaries and dry on the perches
remaining as a potential source of toxicity or irritation. Adequate rinsings are
necessary whenever disinfectants are used.

I. Lead Poisoning-
Lead poisoning is one of the most common poisonings in avian practice. Due to
their curiosity, birds will pick up objects, chew and occasionally swallow small
fragments. Lead is absorbed into the bloodstream from the digestive tract. It is
then carried to the brain and also incorporated into the bone. It can cause
nervous system disorders and eventually lead to death. There are many sources of
lead around the household that bird owners should be aware of as, due to their
inquisitive nature, a pet bird could accidentally happen upon some. Lead is
common in weights such as curtain weights, cuckoo clock weights, fishing
sinkers, and some toys (usually within). Shotgun shot and bullets are obvious
sources. Solder, putty, linoleum, mirror backing, costume jewelry, and some
zippers are less apparent sources of lead. Ceramics not glazed to be food safe
could contain lead. Quite often these are ceramics from outside the United
States. Wine bottle foil has been the source of lead poisonings on several
occasions. The two most common sources of lead poisonings are lead-based paints
and leaded glass. As most paints used now are not lead-based why does it still
occur? Many times in older homes the birds will chew through the superficial
layers of the safe paint to expose the lead-based paints beneath which are
toxic. People living in an older home should keep a wary eye out for any
evidence of chewing of paint by the birds. Also if any leaded or stained glass
is in the home make sure that the birds keep away from the lead surfaces. Even a
small chip can cause toxicity.

The diagnosis of lead poisoning is
through the demonstration of lead in the digestive tract. If lead poisoning is
suspected veterinary assistance should be provided immediately. Radiographs will
confirm the diagnosis. However, the absence of metal densities in the digestive
tract on a x-ray does not rule out heavy metal toxicity. Some cases of lead
poisoning may be from sources that do not show up well on a x-ray such as paint
chips or leaded gas fumes. Sometimes by the time clinical signs are noted the
lead may have cleared the digestive tract or there may be slow release from the
bone months after exposure. Other diagnostic aids include: excess urination,
diarrhea and nervous system signs such as ataxia, head tilt, blindness,
circling, paresis, paralysis, head tremors, convulsions and death. Some birds
die with no clinical signs displayed. Hemoglobinuria (blood in the urine) is a
clinical sign especially in Amazons and some other birds but does not occur in
all cases. It is secondary to rupture of red blood cells within the blood
vessels and may be misinterpreted as bloody diarrhea.. Blood lead analysis will
confirm the diagnosis but results may take several days.

Lead poisoning
can be treated if identified quickly. Calcium EDTA is the drug of choice and is
given by injection into the muscle. It combines (chelates) with the lead in the
bloodstream so that it cannot enter the brain. It is given until there is no
evidence of lead in the GI tract or when clinical signs resolve. Mineral oil or
peanut butter can be given to aid in the passage of the lead out of the GI
tract. Penacillamine can also be used as a treatment for long term therapy, an
advantage being that it can be given orally. This is helpful when symptoms
subside and the bird owner can continue the treatment at home. If large
fragments of lead are present surgical removal may be required.

J.
Poisonous Plants (TABLE OF TOXIC AND SAFE PLANTS)- Houseplants can be a
problem as birds tend to nibble at vegetation, however actual plant
intoxications in pet birds are quite rare. There are few documented cases of
plant poisonings in birds and it is believed that the rapid GI transit time is
thought to play a role in the low incidence of toxicity. Determining how much a
bird ingests is difficult as they seem to enjoy shredding the leaves more than
ingesting them. Much of the data related to poisonous plants in pet birds is
extrapolated from that of mammals. The local poison control center can provide
information as to the toxicity of certain houseplants in the home. Veterinary
care should be sought if there is a suspicion that a bird may have ingested a
potentially toxic plant.

K. Toxic Fumes- Birds have the most
efficient respiratory tract in the animal world. They are able to efficiently
remove oxygen from the atmosphere and into the bloodstream. However, due to this
efficiency and their small size, they are more sensitive to toxic elements in
the air. Remember that canaries were used in mines to detect gases that would
otherwise be undetectable.

There are numerous airborne toxins that are
extremely dangerous for pet birds. Many of these appear harmless as they have no
effect on man, however, some can cause sudden death in birds so care must be
taken whenever they are used around birds. Potential airborne toxins include:
aerosol sprays (the propellant in the spray is toxic), burning/overheated
cooking oil/butter, polymer fumes in spray starch, fumes from self-cleaning
ovens, paint fumes, smoke from burning food, non-stick plastic sprays used to
coat cooking utensils, cigarette smoke, carbon monoxide (car exhaust/water
heater), cooking gas (natural gas), overheated PTFE (commonly known as Teflon)
or any material that emits fumes.

Passive inhalation of cigarette, cigar
and pipe smoke can cause chronic ocular, dermatologic and respiratory disease in
pet birds. Birds that live in homes with smokers often show clinical signs that
include, coughing, sneezing, sinusitis and conjunctivitis due to the constant
irritation of the respiratory system. Many times has been damaged by the smoke.
Clinical signs can resolve without treatment if the source of smoke is
eliminated and no secondary infections are present.

If a strange smell
or fumes are noted, remove any birds to an area free of fumes with good
ventilation. As is evidenced from the listing above, many of these hazards are
from the kitchen. A rule of thumb is not to keep the bird in the kitchen. Too
many unfortunate situations can occur there. Many people keep their birds in the
kitchen as it is a place of great activity. If the bird is kept in the kitchen
exercise extreme caution whenever any cooking or cleaning is being done in the
kitchen. However, it is preferred to keep the birds out of the kitchen.

L. "Teflon Toxicity"- This has been a problem that I have been
addressing for the past several years, having written many articles and giving
numerous lectures on its danger. Dr. Roger Wells had performed the initial
research on PTFE toxicity and his work was essential to avian practitioners and
their understanding of the condition. I had written a comprehensive article that
had appeared in Bird Talk in 1986. However, it might not be such a bad idea to
review some of this information for those of you that are unfamiliar with the
problem.

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic polymer used on
non-stick cooking surfaces. The most familiar PTFE coated cookware are marketed
under the trade names Teflon, Silverstone and Supra. However, other PTFE coated
products are available under other trade names.

Under normal cooking
conditions PTFE coated cookware is stable and safe. When PTFE is heated above
530 degrees F it undergoes breakdown and emits caustic (acid) fumes. Most foods
cook at lower temperatures though, water boils at 212 degrees F, eggs fry at 350
degrees F and deep-frying occurs at 410 degrees F. But when empty PTFE coated
cookware is left on a burner set on the high setting, it can reach temperatures
of 750 degrees F or greater. Thus if a pan is being preheated on a burner and
forgotten or if water boils out of a pot then breakdown of the PTFE can occur.
Therefore PTFE coated cookware has to be "abused" to emit toxic fumes. There
have been reports of some instances of toxicity at lower temperatures.

The signs of PTFE toxicity are non-specific. Birds are usually found
dead in the cage or gasping for air and then dying. The lung tissue is severely
damaged by the caustic effects of the toxic fumes. On post mortem examination
changes are seen in the lungs only, with congestion and hemorrhage in the
airways. The diagnosis is through the signs of respiratory difficulties and
death coupled with the association of a non-stick surface that was possibly
overheated. Other sources of toxic fumes must be ruled out. The changes in the
lungs are non-specific for PTFE toxicity so there is no SPECIFIC way it can be
positively identified.

PTFE coated drip pans (burner pans) are extremely
dangerous for use around birds. The pans are exposed to the direct heat of the
burners so that under a burner set on high after 5 minutes the pan can reach
over 650 degrees F and after 10 minutes over 1000 degrees F. PTFE coated
cookware is dangerous when abused, PTFE coated drip pans are dangerous under
normal usage and should be avoided if birds are present in the household.

A real threat exists as drip pans coated with PTFE are still being
marketed and distributed through mail order houses. From what I gathered
speaking with a representative of one of the companies he stated that "hundreds
of thousands" have been sold. The fact that these can cause death in pet birds
under normal usage (with unknown effects on humans) and the fact that there are
no warning labels on these products or no composition label (so the consumer
knows if PTFE is present or not) is totally unacceptable. Deaths are still
occurring and we must as concerned consumers address this problem. Warning
labels and composition of the non-stick surface are two things that are
definitely needed in the future. Danger in the household lurks in many seemingly
innocent places. Many of these dangers can be averted if proper husbandry
practices and caution are exercised. One death or injury from any of these
circumstances is too many. It is also the duty of veterinarians and informed
aviculturists to share this information with other bird owners so that any
further accidental death and injury of these truly wonderful pets can be
avoided.

V. Basic Health Care for Pet Birds

A. Care of
the Beak- The beak grows constantly and with normal activity should wear
down. If not it overgrows and must be trimmed. Do not be fooled into thinking
that an overgrown beak is merely due to 'not using the cuttlebone.' Quite often
it is the indication of a disease condition. One of the most frequent causes of
beak overgrowth and abnormality is fatty liver disease. In fatty liver disease
of parakeets a rapidly overgrowing upper beak with areas of hemorrhage (seen as
black spots) may be diagnostic. Deterioration and beak overgrowth may indicate
Beak and Feather Disease in a cockatoo. Therefore it is very important to be a
good observer as many such changes seen may help aid in the early diagnosis with
better success in treatment if identified properly. Practitioners should
exercise caution whenever a bird comes in for a beak trim. Is it truly a
grooming problem or a symptom of disease?

B. Care of the Nails-
Keep the nails trimmed short due to the risk of breakage and then bleeding.
Activity on a variety of surfaces (not just a round perch) will contribute to
better care. Cement perches have been shown to be helpful in preventing
overgrowth. Check the toenails and beak regularly and be aware of overgrowth or
unusually rapid growth. Nonetheless, the usual problem caused by overgrown beak
and toenails are impairment to eating and movement. If they are too long there
is the potential for cracking leading to severe injury or hemorrhage.

C. Care of the Feathers- When a feather has grown in completely
it will remain until it is plucked out of the follicle or a new one grows in at
the time of molting. The follicle cannot distinguish between a complete feather
or a broken/damaged one as long as the base in the follicle is intact. During
the molting period the old feathers are replaced with new ones. However, once
feathers have become dirty, damaged or oily they will remain so until the next
molt. This could occur due to smoke, dust, poor cage conditions and greasy
cooking. Dirty or oily feathers should be cleaned. Routine bathing with plain
water can be helpful, but in more extreme cases a mild dishwashing detergent can
be used.

Preening-Preening cleans the new feather and helps to
restore feather integrity. A normal, healthy bird will spend a large part of the
day preening, while a bird that is ill quite often ignores feather condition.
With new feather growth the bird must preen constantly to remove the protective
sheaths from the developing feathers. Bathing, spraying or misting will
encourage preening.

Bathing-It is a very important part of the
preening process, so it should be encouraged. Some birds enjoy bathing in a dish
or birdbath, others roll in wet greens and some prefer to be showered or
misted/sprayed. Plain water is all that is required to maintain good feather
quality. Birds can bathe several times a week if they enjoy it.

Molting-Molting is the period of time when a bird is regenerating
new feathers and shedding the old ones. Within two weeks of the loss of any
feather, a new one should be replacing it. A bird should not be bald in any
area. If baldness is occurring, veterinary evaluation is recommended. Ragged
looking birds are sick and are probably affected with some deeper underlying
problem, which should be corrected. Some birds follow a definite seasonal
pattern to their molting period that usually lasts for one to two months. This
can occur once to twice a year. More typically birds seem to shed their feathers
on a small scale throughout the year with heavier episodes of molting once or
twice a year. Perhaps this is due to the abnormal photoperiod and temperature
fluctuations they face in captivity. Molting is a time of stress, which may
cause the bird to be susceptible to infection. Quite often the bird is quieter
than normal or may seem to have an attitudinal change. Male canaries usually
stop singing during the molt and will resume when it is completed. Nutritional
needs increase during the molt. Prolonged periods of molting may also be
indicative of disease or a nutritional problem. Special measures should be
employed to minimize stress and prevent disease.

1.Heat- Guard
against chilling by increasing the ambient temperature. If the bird is ruffled
and definitely chilled, construct a homemade incubator with a heating pad on the
side of the cage perpendicular in relation to the perches with the whole cage
wrapped in saran wrap. This positioning will enable the bird to sit closer to
the pad for more heat but be able to move away if less warmth is desired. Punch
holes in the saran wrap for ventilation. Sometimes an additional cage cover can
be added. An infrared light or a 150-watt light bulb could be used as
alternative heat sources. The temperature should be maintained at 80-85 degrees.
If the bird is still ruffled and close to the heat source then more heat may be
required. Should the cage temperature become too hot, the bird will start
breathing rapidly and open-mouthed, hold its wings out from the sides of the
body and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the body that the bird
will appear unusually skinny.

2.Rest- Longer periods of rest are
needed-12 to 16 hours of darkness. A quiet area free from disturbance is helpful
to enable rest. A cage cover is helpful.

3.Security- Feather
picking and other vices are more apt to begin during the molting. Try to keep
the bird as stress free as possible during the molting period.

4.Quality diet and supplementation- Excellent nutrition is
important during the molt. An advantage feeding a bird a balanced diet such as
pellets is that molting will be less stressful due to the quality nutrition that
is being provided. If the bird is on a poor diet, supplementation is required
during the molt. Double doses of vitamins are recommended during molting as they
play a role in proper development of the feathers as well as being useful during
any stressful period. Mineral supplementation is required in the growth of
feathers. Increased protein intake during feather development is important as
protein is the key element in the feather. In certain instances of molting even
a bird that is on pellets may need some additional nutritional supplementation.

Blood Feathers- Blood feathers or pin feathers as they may also
may be termed are new feathers that are growing in during the molt, but can also
develop after a feather was plucked entirely out of the follicle. New feathers
have a blood supply that is delivered through a small hole in the tip of the
quill. The shaft of a blood feather will appear either bluish or pink due to the
presence of blood and if the shaft is damaged hemorrhage will occur. Broken
blood feathers are one of the most common emergency situations that an avian
veterinarian has to deal with in practice.

When a bird is bleeding the
source of hemorrhage should quickly be identified. If it is a broken blood
feather then the shaft of the feather should be grasped firmly with fingers or
tweezers and pulled out. Merely applying some form of hemostasis at the broken
end of the feather and not removing the entire feather may result in the clot
loosening with resultant resumption of bleeding. Pressure and clotting powder
should then be applied to the feather follicle. Using a cotton tipped applicator
dipped in the clotting powder will aid in applying it in the follicle and also
expedites placing direct pressure to the follicle, assisting in hemorrhage
control. Most bleeding episodes can be controlled with powder to aid in clotting
combined with steady pressure. Frequent dabbing or rubbing may interfere with
clot formation. After the bleeding has been controlled the bird should be placed
in a covered cage or darkened room and periodically checked for bleeding. A
follow-up visit to a veterinarian is extremely important. Agents that can be
used to stop bleeding include, styptic powder, styptic pencil, silver nitrate
sticks, commercial products such as quickstop, monsel's powder (ferric
subsulfate),or cornstarch, baking soda and flour.

D. Care of the
Feet-Infections of the feet can occur despite taking precautions such as
proper variety of perches. Be certain that the perches are clean, have at least
one soft perch available and vary the sizes of the perches. Any weight shifting,
redness, swellings, crustiness or sores on the feet/legs or lameness are
abnormal and should receive veterinary care. Unless specifically indicated for
treatment by an avian veterinarian no ointments or oils should be applied to the
feet and legs. As the bird preens this will tend to spread this material onto
the feathers causing them to become greasy or oily. This in turn interferes with
the insulative properties of the feathers and in some cases may lead to feather
loss.

E. Care of the Legs-The sole purpose of the leg band is for
identification. It should be removed to prevent problems, such as irritation or
becoming caught on something leading to a leg injury. If the leg band is
necessary then there must be regular evaluation of the banded leg. The leg band
should be freely moveable and there should be no signs of irritation, redness or
thickening on the leg. Chronic irritation of the leg from the band can lead to
swelling which would then trap the band and cause it to interfere with the
normal blood supply to the foot. Eventually the foot would undergo necrosis with
amputation required. This scenario occurs most frequently in canaries due to the
nature of their bands. Bird owners may initially notice that the bird is limping
or that the foot is turning deep red or in severe cases black. Unfortunately
they often believe that removal of the band will resolve the problem. In less
severe cases success can be achieved in this fashion. However, more commonly the
band is so tightly adhered to the leg that band removal is very difficult. In
these situations the leg may be accidentally broken in the removal process or
that once the band is removed all that remains of the tissue under the band is
bone, due to the necrosis of the normal tissue architecture. Clients should be
warned in a severe case of necrosis or tight adherence of the band that damage
such as fracture may occur in the removal process. They should be also informed
of the possibility that toes or the foot may be lost, a certainty with
blackening of the toes or feet. Following removal where there has been
significant trauma, antibiotic therapy and bandaging is usually indicated.

F. Care of the Skin-Since the skin is protected by feathers, no
special care is needed. As mentioned before when discussing the feet never apply
any oil or grease to the skin/feathers for reasons discussed in the earlier
section.

G. Care of the Eyes, Ears and Nose-A discharge from any
of these areas indicates trouble. The area should be kept clean. Wipe the area
with warm water or a mild antiseptic solution. Nothing oily should ever be
applied to these areas unless recommended for treatment by a veterinarian.
Discharges from these sites should receive veterinary attention.

H.
Care of the Uropygial (Tail/Oil) Gland--Not all birds possess this gland
which secretes an oily material that is used during preening. However, birds
that do not possess the gland preen just fine and if a bird had the gland
removed surgically they seem to still preen normally. This gland should be
checked annually during the physical examination. If the bird is pecking
excessively at the top of the tail there may be a problem with the gland.
Problems include impaction, infection or tumor.

I. Weight-Once a
bird becomes an adult, the weight should remain relatively constant. Checking
the weight occasionally, especially at the yearly physical examination, will
provide valuable information of the state of health. Merely looking at a bird
will give no indication as to its weight due to the feathering. Feeling the
breastbone may give some idea, but weighing on a scale is ideal.

J.
Sex Determination-This can be difficult and mistakes are made. The
reproductive organs of the bird are internal so means are needed other than
visualization. The cere (contains the nostrils) of the parakeet is blue in most
males and may be pale blue to dark brown in the female. In most other birds
there are no easy guidelines. Unless for breeding purposes there is real need to
know the sex of a bird. Experienced breeders do an excellent job and can sex
certain varieties of birds with reasonable accuracy before selling. When needed
a veterinarian could verify the sex by a simple surgical procedure where the
internal organs are visualized. Surgical sexing is usually performed for
breeders who would like verification of the sex of a bird and also an evaluation
of the condition of the gonads as well as other organs visualized during the
laparoscopic technique. Determining the sex of a bird through DNA analysis of a
blood sample has proven to be a safe and effective technique. It is performed by
commercial laboratories and is being used widely.

K. Annual Physical
Examination by a Veterinarian-Birds hide their problems so effectively that
they need annual examinations by a veterinarian. This should include a 'hands
on' physical examination, weight check and laboratory tests of the droppings and
the blood. Yearly reminders should be sent to avian clients to encourage them to
come in for the annual physical examination.

VI. Signs of Sickness in
Pet BirdsBirds hide their problems very effectively so that when they
begin to obviously manifest their illness, they are already seriously to
critically ill. The bird that dies "suddenly" had probably been sick for some
time and was not recognized as being abnormal. Birds are actually very hardy and
tolerate problems as well as any other animal. If given a chance, birds can live
a long life. Because of this difficulty in detecting illnesses early, it is of
utmost importance to the owner to be familiar with the signs of illness. If they
recognize any of the signs of illness they should be encouraged to bring the
bird in for an examination. Quite often when a bird is brought in for an annual
check-up subtle disease changes may be discovered before they cause serious
illness.

General signs of illness include: 1. Change in the
character of the droppings or a decrease in the number or volume. 2. Change
in food or water consumption. 3. Change in attitude-generally observed as
decreased activity or talking less, singing less or no response to stimuli.
4. Change in the bird's appearance or posture-a sick bird will generally
ruffle their feathers, begin closing their eyes in a sleepy fashion and will be
sitting low on the perch (droopy). 5. Any noticeable breathing while
resting, heavy breathing after exertion, change in character of the voice and
any respiratory sounds-sneeze, wheeze or click. 6. Any enlargement-even fat
is abnormal in a bird. 7. Unusual crustiness on the face/beak or feet/legs

VII. Emergency Care for Pet Birds (temporary care until the bird is
seen by a veterinarian) If ever a bird sits with its feathers ruffled, eyes
partially closed, droopy appearance or if there are signs of diarrhea or
respiratory problems, the bird should be treated immediately. Also, any bird
which has been injured, sustained a broken leg or wing, bitten by a cat, dog or
other animal, burned or chilled, should likewise be started on emergency care.

A. Heat/Incubator - As mentioned in an earlier section, a
temporary incubator can be made by placing a heating pad alongside the cage and
then the entire cage is wrapped with plastic (saran wrap) and holes made for
ventilation. Sometimes an additional cage cover can be added. An infrared light
or a 150-watt light bulb could be used as alternative heat sources. The
temperature should be maintained at 80-85 degrees. Should the cage temperature
become too hot, the bird will start breathing rapidly, hold its wings out from
the sides of the body and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the
body that the bird will appear unusually skinny.

B. Droppings-
Start counting droppings. The number, volume and appearance is of great
importance to the veterinarian, so save the cage papers and bring them in with
the bird for evaluation.

C. Nutrition/Fluids- A bird that stops
eating dies. Therefore, every effort must be made to encourage the bird to eat.
Cups of food are placed adjacent to where the bird is perched, food can be
scattered on the bottom of the cage if the bird is off the perch. The
veterinarian will immediately force-feed a bird that is not eating by passing a
feeding tube into the crop. To give the bird an extra boost of energy, sugar can
be added to the water if the bird is still drinking. Care must be taken with
some antibiotics administered in the drinking water as they may cause the water
to have an unpleasant taste and the bird may avoid the water and further
dehydrate. If possible giving watered down sugar solution by eyedropper to a
weakened bird may be lifesaving if the stress of handling is not too great.

D. Rest- Sick birds need rest, and thus, should be in a darkened
room or covered to insure 12-16 hours of sleep. A two-hour nap in the morning
and afternoon is advisable.

E. Bleeding- The source of bleeding
should be identified. If it is a broken blood feather then the shaft of the
feather should be grasped firmly with your fingers or tweezers and pulled out.
Pressure and clotting powder should then be applied to the feather follicle.
Most bleeding episodes can be controlled with powder to aid in clotting and
steady pressure. Frequent dabbing or rubbing may interfere with clot formation.
After the bleeding has been controlled the bird should be placed in a covered
cage or darkened room and periodically checked for bleeding. A follow-up visit
to a veterinarian is extremely important. Agents that can be used to stop
bleeding include, styptic powder, styptic pencil, silver nitrate sticks,
commercial products such as quickstop, monsel's powder (ferric sub sulfate),
cornstarch, baking soda and flour. Don'ts *don't give whiskey *don't give
laxatives *don't use oils *don't stop food or water Telephone your
veterinarian for assistance.

VIII. ConclusionHopefully
these tips on bird care will enable you to provide the best quality care for
your pet birds, insuring a long, healthy and happy relationship. Pet birds are totally reliant upon us for the proper
environment and its maintenance for their well being. If the situation is
unsatisfactory they are unable to fly elsewhere-it is our total responsibility,
and a great one, as the life of a living creature is in our hands. Poor care can
lead to sickness and death. Consideration must be given to the cage, the
surroundings and all activities in that area. Birds are social animals and
require a rich environment to do well. Birds learn to relate to people, and
actually, when living in a cage situation, need people for socialization. Talk
to the bird, whistle to it or sing to it. It cannot live well without
socialization and interaction.

In the past birds have been considered to
be of low intellect since their brain is tiny and has a poorly developed
cerebral cortex (well developed in man). However, birds have demonstrated in
test after test that they are capable of highly intelligent behavior, sometimes
surpassing the abilities of mammals with greatly superior cortical development.
Thus a pet bird should be considered more than merely an ornament. Adequate
environmental stimuli should be provided for their intellect as well as
interaction/affection for their emotional needs.

The Environment of
the BirdI. The CageA.Space/Size- It is the bird's "home" and should
be pleasant as possible. The cage should be of the proper size for the variety
of bird. Ideally speaking, no cage is large enough; however, gigantic cages are
not necessary. The cage is the place to house the bird when the owners are away
to keep it safe from harm. The bird should spend large amounts of supervised
time outside of the cage so the cage should be of a comfortable size during the
periods when it is being caged. There should be adequate space for exercise.
Room for multiple perches is important in small birds, as they tend to flit from
perch to perch, especially finches and canaries. Large birds benefit from
adequate room and more than one perch to enable more activity in the cage. There
is the potential for injury if the cage is too small. In addition, a cage of
improper size can lead to battered wing tips as well as damage/fraying to wing
and tail feathers. It is truly a shame to see the damage done to the beautiful
tail of a macaw if it is placed in an inadequately sized cage.

B.
Cage Construction- The cage should be constructed of a material suitable for
the type of bird. It must be of sturdy construction for the larger birds as they
can easily dismantle a cage designed for a smaller bird. Proper bar spacing is
very important, particularly when a smaller bird is placed in a large cage. Too
wide of bar spacing could lead to escape or worse yet, trapping of the head
between the bars. It is a good idea to check the cage for any sharp edges or
projections that may pose a hazard. Larger birds will damage a cage over time so
it is recommended to be on the lookout for any loose or bent pieces of metal,
which could cause injury.

The material used in the construction of the
cage should be non-toxic. If the cage is wood or if is being 'home-made', make
sure that the wood has not been treated with wood preservatives as they have the
potential to be poisonous. Psittacine birds have a great need to chew so that
over time there is the potential that they may acquire sub-lethal levels of
toxic components. Some toxic preservatives include, creosote, bitumen paint,
naptha compounds and pentachlorophenol to name a few. If a preservative is to be
used be sure it is non-toxic. Avoid materials containing lead such as solder or
lead-based paint. That old cage from Grandpa's attic that had been repainted
might have been repainted with lead-based paint.

If galvanized metal is
present in any of the components of the cage be aware of "new wire disease"
which is a frequently encountered heavy metal poisoning caused by the zinc in
the wire. Galvanized wire and clips used to construct cages or galvanized
containers and dishes, which are not properly treated, are common sources of
zinc. The white rust on galvanized metal is also toxic. The brighter or shinier
the metal the more zinc is present. Scrubbing the galvanized metal with a brush
and a mild acidic solution (vinegar) may be helpful by removing some of the
'loose' zinc reducing but not totally eliminating the risk. Birds suffering from
new wire disease may show GI problems, drink and urinate excessively, lose
weight, exhibit weakness, anemia, cyanosis and seizures. A blood sample checking
for zinc levels can confirm the disease. Most often the diagnosis is made
through the clinical signs coupled with exposure to an improperly treated
galvanized surface. Clinically and radiographically zinc toxicity is difficult
to distinguish from lead poisoning. Fortunately the treatment for both
conditions is the same, CaEDTA, an agent that 'chelates' or combines with the
metal in the system to prevent further absorption.

C.
Height-There should be the availability to climb to a high perch, preferably
outside the cage. A bird feels secure in higher positions and likes to assume a
dominant position above where it is less threatened. Where does a frightened
bird go? As high as possible to reach a position of safety. After taming this is
less evident, except for instance, if strangers are around. With birds that are
very aggressive and dominant it may ease some of the aggression if the bird is
not allowed to achieve the higher 'dominant' position.

D.
Privacy-Some birds prefer having a retreat where it cannot be seen. Partial
covering of the cage or a box inside the cage may help. This is especially
important with new and nervous birds.

E. Freedom-Freedom is of
extreme importance for birds. It is recommended that definite periods of time
are set aside daily to allow the bird to have freedom outside the cage. Some
cages are designed so that they can be opened on top or allow the placement of a
'playground' on top of the cage. A perch or T-stand where the bird is outside
the cage and can interact is also recommended. Cages are needed but only to keep
the bird safe from dangers. Pet birds should be out of their cage whenever the
owner can be sure the bird is safe (wing clipping may be useful if a bird tends
to fly and get into mischief). Ideally, this would be when the owner is home and
would allow the bird 1-4 hours or more outside of the cage. Detrimental
consequences are seen in birds continually caged. The solitary confinement of
cages blocks opportunity for the types of stimuli needed for mental health.
Continuous confinement of cage life encourages abnormal behavior. Life becomes a
series of routine activities that become so well established that change is not
accepted. Birds in cages seldom have a chance to socialize/interact. Caging
narrows the bird mentally and thus has the effect of taking away its
friendliness, curiosity, activity and gradually dulls its inclination to
socialize, to eat a variety of foods and take proper care of its feathers. As a
bird becomes tame, the fear of people gradually diminishes and disappears. The
need to escape lessens. Birds out of their cage are more apt to become
extroverted. They happily greet people, perform tricks and show off. Feeding is
more natural and new foods are accepted more readily. All of the bird's
activities, feeding, vocalization, courtship and reproduction, sleep, body care
and resistance to disease flourish with freedom. When the bird becomes
self-confident and happy, the owner can realize its full potential as a pet.

II. Cage AccessoriesA. Perches-The bird spends its entire
life on a perch. Some thought should be put forth on providing the quality and
type best suited for the particular variety of bird. The goal should be comfort
and prevention of foot problems. The perches should be made of an easily
washable material and thoroughly cleaned regularly. They may either be scraped
or washed.

Diameter-A bird on perches of all the same diameter is
likely to develop foot problems. Birds do not form calluses on the bottom of
their feet in response to wear; rather the scales thin develop pressure sores
and eventually ulcerate leading to 'bumblefoot.' A variety of sizes seems
advantageous so there is more even wear on the feet. It is recommended to use
both large and small diameter perches. Flat perches are advantageous for smaller
birds. If a bird has thinning scales in the middle of the feet then the perch
diameters are all too small and larger diameter perches should be provided. If
the scales are thinning on the underside of the hock (ankle) then the perch
diameter is too large and smaller diameter perches should be used.

Types-Many different types of materials can be used for perches.
Common perches include plastic perches (usually used for small birds), dowel
rods, flat perches, swings, string, clothesline, padded perches, rope perches,
rubber tubing, PVC pipe and sticks or branches from outside. Branches from the
outside make great perches; however, they should be from non-poisonous plants
and well scrubbed. Care must be taken if the branches had been sprayed with
insecticides/herbicides, as even tiny amounts could be lethal to a bird. Due to
the risk of bugs the branches can be prepared by heating in the oven at 250
degrees for 10 minutes. Birds like to chew on their perches so bark is eagerly
peeled from branch type perches. If a bird is an avid perch chewer, homemade
perches can be made from untreated white pine wood from the hardware store or
lumberyard. It is a hard enough wood that they cannot chew through it too
quickly but not so hard that they cannot chew it at all.

Hard and
soft perches-Birds in the wild do not sit on the same diameter hard perch.
Be certain a soft perch is available, such as rubber tubing, rope or padding a
perch with paper towels or moleskin.

Non-rigid perches-They help
absorb the shock/impact of the bird's landing. Swings, branches/twigs, or a
hose/tubing composed of soft rubber or soft plastic are good non-rigid perches.
This is especially important in small birds that hop from perch to perch in a
frantic manner such as finches and canaries.

Perch
covers-Sandpaper perch covers do nothing for the bird, as they do not wear
down the nails and may actually be irritating to the feet.

Cement
Perches-These perches are helpful in keeping the beak and toenails from
becoming overgrown if the bird uses the perch. It is recommended that only one
of these perches be in a cage as its coarse nature could be irritating to the
bottom of the feet if the bird spends too much time on these perches. If cement
perches are used it is recommended to check the bottom of the bird's feet for
thinning scales or redness.

B. Cage papers-Paper is recommended
for use on the bottom of the cage, as the droppings are more easily monitored as
to their number and appearance. Carefully checking the droppings and watching
for any unusual changes is an effective means of early detection of possible
disease conditions. If corncob or wood shavings are used as bedding an extra
special effort should be made to periodically monitor the droppings, as they
will become lost in the bedding. Quite often this bedding is not changed
frequently enough and could be a source of infection. The bedding must be from a
reputable source. Dusty/dirty bedding may be a potential source for fungal (Aspergillus) or bacterial
(Klebsiella) contaminants.

C. Nesting
Material-Nesting material composed of fine threads should be avoided as it
may wrap around the toes or legs and acting as a tourniquet, cutting off the
circulation. This may lead to deterioration (necrosis) and loss of toes. The
birds most often affected seem to be finches and canaries. Cedar chips and other
aromatic woods in small nesting boxes may be hazardous. The aroma is too
overwhelming in a small area and can be toxic, possibly leading to death.

D. Seed and water cups-The cups should be made of an easily
washable material and manufactured from material that can withstand cleaning and
disinfection. Ideally they should be cleaned daily to minimize bacterial
contamination. The cleaning should be thorough; rinsing and merely running your
finger around the inside of the cups is not enough. Dirty water cups may be one
of the greatest sources of infection for pet birds. A clean and fresh source of
water is so very important for the health of pet birds. Water that stands for
several days will pick up bacterial contaminants from the surrounding
environment. The addition of vitamins (some which contain dextrose as an
ingredient) and other supplements to the water make it even more suitable for
bacterial growth. The condition will worsen when bits of food or droppings are
in the water. Too often cups have droppings in the food or floating in the
drinking water. The food and water cups should have a cover or be shielded so
that they are protected from fecal contamination. Strategic placement of the
cups in relation to the perches can also be accomplished to minimize this risk
as well.

E. Food-All foods and seeds made available to birds
should be clean, fresh and from a reputable source. Avoid spoiled foods and
moldy or dirty grains, which may be a possible fungal source. Food should be
stored in an area that is not damp or dusty. Aspergillus (a fungus) is a risk in
such an environment.

Mycotoxins are chemical metabolites produced by
various species of fungi that grow on grains and foodstuffs. The toxin produced
may be present even after the fungus stops reproducing. The amount of toxin
present varies due to many factors; quite often it may be concentrated on
certain areas of the grain causing 'hot spots'. The effects vary depending upon
the type of toxin, species of bird, nutritional and physiologic status of the
bird. A stressed bird on a poor diet is more likely to be affected than a
healthy one. It is difficult to identify the disease as it mimics so many other
conditions and quite often when the disease develops the offending food may no
longer be present making diagnosis difficult. There is no specific antidote,
rather prevent exposure as opposed to treating the condition. Special caution
with poor quality corn and peanuts as these are common sources of toxin
producing molds.

Many people refrigerate or freeze their seed/pellets.
The "cooking" of seeds/pellets is a controversial topic. It is believed that by
doing this, contaminating and potentially disease causing gram-negative bacteria
will be eliminated or at least reduced in the food material. Opponents feel that
the nutritional content of the food may be reduced. The temperatures recommended
are 1) conventional oven- 350 degrees for 10 minutes and 2) microwave- 2 1/2
minutes at the low setting. After cooking, the food should be properly stored.
Fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly to remove any residual
insecticide contaminants. Wash these foods better for birds than for human
consumption. Birds are very sensitive to any insecticide sprays that may have
been used.

Chocolate is not recommended for birds. It can result in
hyperactivity, vomiting, diarrhea, heart irregularities, seizures, dark colored
droppings and death. Progression of signs can be rapid if large amounts are
ingested. Excess consumption of salt can cause problems. Avocados have been
shown to be toxic for pet birds. At first only the pit was thought to be toxic
but some studies suggest that all parts, including the fruit, are toxic. The
actual toxin has not been described. There are several varieties of avocados
that are commercially available, which appear to vary in their toxic capacity.
Signs of toxicity include ruffling, increased respirations, vomiting, weakness,
anorexia and death. The progression is rapid; the lungs are especially affected.
Treatment is non-specific, mainly supportive care.

F. Grit- The
use of grit is another area of controversy. Its recommended use is only
periodically as it is not continually required in the cage. A bird will retain
grit in its gizzard and does not need to have it replenished daily. Actually pet
birds do not usually need grit for normal digestion. If grit is to be used do
not sprinkle it on the bottom of the cage (as it will become fouled with
droppings) and do not mix it in the food. It should be placed in a separate cup
so that its intake can be monitored. The problem is that sick birds (especially
with digestive tract disturbances) will tend to overeat grit and this could lead
to impaction. A bird that has an excessive intake of grit could indicate a
problem. Some people with sick birds have thought that they were still eating,
when in actuality they were eating only grit. A constant source of minerals is
required and plain grit is not that great of a source. Good mineral supplements
include, cuttlebone, mineral block, crushed eggshells, crushed oyster shells,
bones and commercial mineral preparations.

G. Cage Toys- Bird
toys should be suitable for the particular variety of bird. For some birds
having toys available is very important Large birds can easily dismantle or
destroy toys designed for smaller birds. Glass mirrors are hazardous to large
birds. Watch for sharp edges and hooks on toys as they may lead to severe
injury. Many birds have been impaled on hooks used to secure certain toys. Avoid
toys with bells for larger birds as they can easily remove the bell and have it
become lodged on the beak. For some reason the most frequent victim of this
mishap is the lovebird, perhaps due to their small size (provided with small
bird type toys) yet powerful beak. Certain toys contain lead weights. Some toys
that are safe for smaller birds have the potential to be dangerous to larger
birds as they may crack open the toy to expose the lead weight within (such as
the penguin toy). It is important to avoid cluttering the cage with excessive
toys and cage furnishings. Some cages are so packed with paraphernalia that it
is a wonder that the bird can move about inside at all and with that is a
greater risk for injury. Consider the following the following varieties of toys:
commercially available toys, bells (not for larger birds), swings, ladders,
bathing tubs, mirrors (not for large birds), dumbbells, bones and balls.

H. Chewing/chew toys- The beak of the bird grows constantly. For
example, a parakeet beak grows several inches a year. The beak is worn down by
eating, play or chewing activity. A bird that does not chew enough will have an
overgrown or excessively flaky beak. Examples of good chew toys include:
commercial chew toys, rawhide chews, cuttlebone/mineral block, lava rock,
branches from outside, cardboard, paper towel rolls (insert), wooden
clothespins, bones, pine cones, white pine wood (perches or scraps) and rope to
name a few.

I. Cage covers- These are important for the bird's
well being. A bird is a slave to light. Pet birds probably require the same
amount of light and dark that occurs in a natural day. Inadequate amounts of
rest will have the same effect that it has on humans. The bird should have at
least 8-10 hours of darkness every evening. Cage covers have two purposes: they
darken the cage in order for the bird to rest and help keep the cage warm if the
temperature drops at night.

III. The Environment Around the Cage

A. Location of the cage- Birds are generally happiest and do
their best in areas of activity. Place the cage in an active area of the house,
such as the family room. If the bird is to be kept in the kitchen, extreme
caution must be taken due to the dangers present (described in a later section).
Because of the hazards present it is preferable to keep birds out of the
kitchen. Direct sunlight is stimulating and enjoyable to birds; care must be
taken not to overheat them on a summer day. Outside walls, depending upon the
temperature outside and the amount of insulation, may cause undue exposure to
cold. Drafts that are tolerated by us will generally not bother a healthy bird.
However, a cold steady draft (such as an air-conditioning vent, etc.) could lead
to problems.

B. Temperature- Under their covering of contour
feathers, birds have a layer of down to keep them warm. A healthy bird can
tolerate a change of temperature of 10-15 degrees. Whatever is comfortable for
us is fine for the bird, as long as the change in temperature is not so sudden
that the bird cannot gradually acclimate. Sick birds chill readily and need to
be kept at 80-90 degrees. The normal body temperature of a healthy bird is
105-107 degrees.

C. Humidity- An ideal humidity for a bird seems
to be 30-50%.

IV Dangers in the Household Exercise caution
whenever birds are allowed freedom in the house. Many seemingly innocent common
household furnishings can be dangerous. If no one is at home to monitor the
bird, it is best to keep it caged.

A. Windows/Mirrors- Windows
and mirrors do not appear to be a barrier to flying birds. They may unwittingly
proceed headlong into them, possibly causing severe injury or loss of
consciousness. If the birds are able to fly free try to keep these surfaces
covered. To prevent this type of injury it would be a good idea to keep the
wings clipped.

B. Open Doors/Windows- The danger is obvious. The
loss of a pet bird is not uncommon due to this and can easily be avoided if
proper precautions are taken. Another dangerous situation is when a free-flying
bird has perched ontop of a open door (such as a closet or pantry) and the owner
is unaware the bird is there. Quite frequently when this door is unwittingly
closed, with the bird still perched there, serious feet and leg injuries occur.
Sometimes it may be an abrasion but more often than not fractures or near
amputations are the result. The owner should always have some awareness of where
their bird is during free flight.

C. Open Containers of Water-
The risk of drowning exists whenever there are open containers of water. Birds
have drowned by falling into sinks, commodes, pots of water, etc. An unfortunate
accident is when a bird tries to take a drink from a glass, loses their balance,
falls in and drowns. If birds are flying freely in the home, such containers
should be covered. Caution must be exercised whenever a bird is nearby and
someone is in the kitchen cooking or at the sink.

D. Ceiling
Fans- These can cause serious injury to flying birds. Surprisingly injuries
from this occur much more frequently than anyone would imagine. This type of
accident occurs most frequently in cockatiels, probably due to their soaring
nature of flight. The owner should be extremely careful whenever the ceiling fan
is in operation and a bird is flying freely.

E. Loud Noises-
Birds do have sensitive hearing so that loud noises can cause stress, leading to
lowered resistance to infection or emotional problems such as feather picking.

F. Other Pets in the Household- Attacks by other pets in a
household are a very frequent cause of injury for pet birds. A cat bite or cat
scratch can be lethal to a bird unless properly treated. The bacteria from this
type of injury can cause a systemic infection, so even if the bird looks fine
there can be severe disease developing. Veterinary care should be promptly
administered if it does occur for proper antibiotic therapy. Injuries due to
dogs are moreso due to blunt trauma or puncture wounds. Ferrets have been
occasionally responsible for causing the death of pet birds, even large birds
such as cockatoos. Even though a bird may be large it may not be able to defend
itself adequately against a tenacious attack. Jealous or aggressive birds may
cause severe injuries to other birds in the household. Beaks can be traumatized
or even ripped off. However, one of the more common injuries is of the toes. Toe
lacerations, fractures, and amputations are seen if a bird lands on the cage of
an aggressive bird or vice versa. So even if pets seem to live in harmony,
always be on guard for potential confrontations. Pets relish the attention of
their owners so that sometimes jealousy can motivate them to attack one another.

G. Cooking Food- Hot cookware, hot food and hot range tops can be
dangerous. Remember, even though a burner is turned off it still remains hot
enough to blister the feet of a bird for some time. A good rule is to keep the
bird away from the range while there is cooking going on.

H.
Potentially Poisonous Compounds for Pet Birds- Birds are particularly
sensitive to many chemicals due to their small size and very efficient
metabolism. Some compounds that have been shown to be toxic to birds include:
agricultural/gardening chemicals, insecticide/herbicidal sprays rodenticides,
mothballs (napthalenes) and denture cleansing solution. Salt in large amounts
could be toxic, however eating a potato chip or the grain of salt off a pretzel
is not toxic. Drugs in excessive quantities or improper usage of medications can
be problematic. Quite often people may use medications provided by their
veterinarian in higher than recommended dosages as they feel that it might be
more effective. Some people have used their own prescription medications on
birds feeling that it had been helpful in their illnesses. Cigarette butts
carelessly left about the home in ashtrays are dangerous as due to curiosity
birds have gotten into ashtrays, ingested cigarette butts and died.
Disinfectants can be dangerous when used in amounts more concentrated than
manufacturers recommendations. With disinfectants people feel that if a little
is good then alot is better and at higher concentrations some could be toxic.
Disinfectants can lie in pools on the bottom of aviaries and dry on the perches
remaining as a potential source of toxicity or irritation. Adequate rinsings are
necessary whenever disinfectants are used.

I. Lead Poisoning-
Lead poisoning is one of the most common poisonings in avian practice. Due to
their curiosity, birds will pick up objects, chew and occasionally swallow small
fragments. Lead is absorbed into the bloodstream from the digestive tract. It is
then carried to the brain and also incorporated into the bone. It can cause
nervous system disorders and eventually lead to death. There are many sources of
lead around the household that bird owners should be aware of as, due to their
inquisitive nature, a pet bird could accidentally happen upon some. Lead is
common in weights such as curtain weights, cuckoo clock weights, fishing
sinkers, and some toys (usually within). Shotgun shot and bullets are obvious
sources. Solder, putty, linoleum, mirror backing, costume jewelry, and some
zippers are less apparent sources of lead. Ceramics not glazed to be food safe
could contain lead. Quite often these are ceramics from outside the United
States. Wine bottle foil has been the source of lead poisonings on several
occasions. The two most common sources of lead poisonings are lead-based paints
and leaded glass. As most paints used now are not lead-based why does it still
occur? Many times in older homes the birds will chew through the superficial
layers of the safe paint to expose the lead-based paints beneath which are
toxic. People living in an older home should keep a wary eye out for any
evidence of chewing of paint by the birds. Also if any leaded or stained glass
is in the home make sure that the birds keep away from the lead surfaces. Even a
small chip can cause toxicity.

The diagnosis of lead poisoning is
through the demonstration of lead in the digestive tract. If lead poisoning is
suspected veterinary assistance should be provided immediately. Radiographs will
confirm the diagnosis. However, the absence of metal densities in the digestive
tract on a x-ray does not rule out heavy metal toxicity. Some cases of lead
poisoning may be from sources that do not show up well on a x-ray such as paint
chips or leaded gas fumes. Sometimes by the time clinical signs are noted the
lead may have cleared the digestive tract or there may be slow release from the
bone months after exposure. Other diagnostic aids include: excess urination,
diarrhea and nervous system signs such as ataxia, head tilt, blindness,
circling, paresis, paralysis, head tremors, convulsions and death. Some birds
die with no clinical signs displayed. Hemoglobinuria (blood in the urine) is a
clinical sign especially in Amazons and some other birds but does not occur in
all cases. It is secondary to rupture of red blood cells within the blood
vessels and may be misinterpreted as bloody diarrhea.. Blood lead analysis will
confirm the diagnosis but results may take several days.

Lead poisoning
can be treated if identified quickly. Calcium EDTA is the drug of choice and is
given by injection into the muscle. It combines (chelates) with the lead in the
bloodstream so that it cannot enter the brain. It is given until there is no
evidence of lead in the GI tract or when clinical signs resolve. Mineral oil or
peanut butter can be given to aid in the passage of the lead out of the GI
tract. Penacillamine can also be used as a treatment for long term therapy, an
advantage being that it can be given orally. This is helpful when symptoms
subside and the bird owner can continue the treatment at home. If large
fragments of lead are present surgical removal may be required.

J.
Poisonous Plants (TABLE OF TOXIC AND SAFE PLANTS)- Houseplants can be a
problem as birds tend to nibble at vegetation, however actual plant
intoxications in pet birds are quite rare. There are few documented cases of
plant poisonings in birds and it is believed that the rapid GI transit time is
thought to play a role in the low incidence of toxicity. Determining how much a
bird ingests is difficult as they seem to enjoy shredding the leaves more than
ingesting them. Much of the data related to poisonous plants in pet birds is
extrapolated from that of mammals. The local poison control center can provide
information as to the toxicity of certain houseplants in the home. Veterinary
care should be sought if there is a suspicion that a bird may have ingested a
potentially toxic plant.

K. Toxic Fumes- Birds have the most
efficient respiratory tract in the animal world. They are able to efficiently
remove oxygen from the atmosphere and into the bloodstream. However, due to this
efficiency and their small size, they are more sensitive to toxic elements in
the air. Remember that canaries were used in mines to detect gases that would
otherwise be undetectable.

There are numerous airborne toxins that are
extremely dangerous for pet birds. Many of these appear harmless as they have no
effect on man, however, some can cause sudden death in birds so care must be
taken whenever they are used around birds. Potential airborne toxins include:
aerosol sprays (the propellant in the spray is toxic), burning/overheated
cooking oil/butter, polymer fumes in spray starch, fumes from self-cleaning
ovens, paint fumes, smoke from burning food, non-stick plastic sprays used to
coat cooking utensils, cigarette smoke, carbon monoxide (car exhaust/water
heater), cooking gas (natural gas), overheated PTFE (commonly known as Teflon)
or any material that emits fumes.

Passive inhalation of cigarette, cigar
and pipe smoke can cause chronic ocular, dermatologic and respiratory disease in
pet birds. Birds that live in homes with smokers often show clinical signs that
include, coughing, sneezing, sinusitis and conjunctivitis due to the constant
irritation of the respiratory system. Many times has been damaged by the smoke.
Clinical signs can resolve without treatment if the source of smoke is
eliminated and no secondary infections are present.

If a strange smell
or fumes are noted, remove any birds to an area free of fumes with good
ventilation. As is evidenced from the listing above, many of these hazards are
from the kitchen. A rule of thumb is not to keep the bird in the kitchen. Too
many unfortunate situations can occur there. Many people keep their birds in the
kitchen as it is a place of great activity. If the bird is kept in the kitchen
exercise extreme caution whenever any cooking or cleaning is being done in the
kitchen. However, it is preferred to keep the birds out of the kitchen.

L. "Teflon Toxicity"- This has been a problem that I have been
addressing for the past several years, having written many articles and giving
numerous lectures on its danger. Dr. Roger Wells had performed the initial
research on PTFE toxicity and his work was essential to avian practitioners and
their understanding of the condition. I had written a comprehensive article that
had appeared in Bird Talk in 1986. However, it might not be such a bad idea to
review some of this information for those of you that are unfamiliar with the
problem.

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic polymer used on
non-stick cooking surfaces. The most familiar PTFE coated cookware are marketed
under the trade names Teflon, Silverstone and Supra. However, other PTFE coated
products are available under other trade names.

Under normal cooking
conditions PTFE coated cookware is stable and safe. When PTFE is heated above
530 degrees F it undergoes breakdown and emits caustic (acid) fumes. Most foods
cook at lower temperatures though, water boils at 212 degrees F, eggs fry at 350
degrees F and deep-frying occurs at 410 degrees F. But when empty PTFE coated
cookware is left on a burner set on the high setting, it can reach temperatures
of 750 degrees F or greater. Thus if a pan is being preheated on a burner and
forgotten or if water boils out of a pot then breakdown of the PTFE can occur.
Therefore PTFE coated cookware has to be "abused" to emit toxic fumes. There
have been reports of some instances of toxicity at lower temperatures.

The signs of PTFE toxicity are non-specific. Birds are usually found
dead in the cage or gasping for air and then dying. The lung tissue is severely
damaged by the caustic effects of the toxic fumes. On post mortem examination
changes are seen in the lungs only, with congestion and hemorrhage in the
airways. The diagnosis is through the signs of respiratory difficulties and
death coupled with the association of a non-stick surface that was possibly
overheated. Other sources of toxic fumes must be ruled out. The changes in the
lungs are non-specific for PTFE toxicity so there is no SPECIFIC way it can be
positively identified.

PTFE coated drip pans (burner pans) are extremely
dangerous for use around birds. The pans are exposed to the direct heat of the
burners so that under a burner set on high after 5 minutes the pan can reach
over 650 degrees F and after 10 minutes over 1000 degrees F. PTFE coated
cookware is dangerous when abused, PTFE coated drip pans are dangerous under
normal usage and should be avoided if birds are present in the household.

A real threat exists as drip pans coated with PTFE are still being
marketed and distributed through mail order houses. From what I gathered
speaking with a representative of one of the companies he stated that "hundreds
of thousands" have been sold. The fact that these can cause death in pet birds
under normal usage (with unknown effects on humans) and the fact that there are
no warning labels on these products or no composition label (so the consumer
knows if PTFE is present or not) is totally unacceptable. Deaths are still
occurring and we must as concerned consumers address this problem. Warning
labels and composition of the non-stick surface are two things that are
definitely needed in the future. Danger in the household lurks in many seemingly
innocent places. Many of these dangers can be averted if proper husbandry
practices and caution are exercised. One death or injury from any of these
circumstances is too many. It is also the duty of veterinarians and informed
aviculturists to share this information with other bird owners so that any
further accidental death and injury of these truly wonderful pets can be
avoided.

V. Basic Health Care for Pet Birds

A. Care of
the Beak- The beak grows constantly and with normal activity should wear
down. If not it overgrows and must be trimmed. Do not be fooled into thinking
that an overgrown beak is merely due to 'not using the cuttlebone.' Quite often
it is the indication of a disease condition. One of the most frequent causes of
beak overgrowth and abnormality is fatty liver disease. In fatty liver disease
of parakeets a rapidly overgrowing upper beak with areas of hemorrhage (seen as
black spots) may be diagnostic. Deterioration and beak overgrowth may indicate
Beak and Feather Disease in a cockatoo. Therefore it is very important to be a
good observer as many such changes seen may help aid in the early diagnosis with
better success in treatment if identified properly. Practitioners should
exercise caution whenever a bird comes in for a beak trim. Is it truly a
grooming problem or a symptom of disease?

B. Care of the Nails-
Keep the nails trimmed short due to the risk of breakage and then bleeding.
Activity on a variety of surfaces (not just a round perch) will contribute to
better care. Cement perches have been shown to be helpful in preventing
overgrowth. Check the toenails and beak regularly and be aware of overgrowth or
unusually rapid growth. Nonetheless, the usual problem caused by overgrown beak
and toenails are impairment to eating and movement. If they are too long there
is the potential for cracking leading to severe injury or hemorrhage.

C. Care of the Feathers- When a feather has grown in completely
it will remain until it is plucked out of the follicle or a new one grows in at
the time of molting. The follicle cannot distinguish between a complete feather
or a broken/damaged one as long as the base in the follicle is intact. During
the molting period the old feathers are replaced with new ones. However, once
feathers have become dirty, damaged or oily they will remain so until the next
molt. This could occur due to smoke, dust, poor cage conditions and greasy
cooking. Dirty or oily feathers should be cleaned. Routine bathing with plain
water can be helpful, but in more extreme cases a mild dishwashing detergent can
be used.

Preening-Preening cleans the new feather and helps to
restore feather integrity. A normal, healthy bird will spend a large part of the
day preening, while a bird that is ill quite often ignores feather condition.
With new feather growth the bird must preen constantly to remove the protective
sheaths from the developing feathers. Bathing, spraying or misting will
encourage preening.

Bathing-It is a very important part of the
preening process, so it should be encouraged. Some birds enjoy bathing in a dish
or birdbath, others roll in wet greens and some prefer to be showered or
misted/sprayed. Plain water is all that is required to maintain good feather
quality. Birds can bathe several times a week if they enjoy it.

Molting-Molting is the period of time when a bird is regenerating
new feathers and shedding the old ones. Within two weeks of the loss of any
feather, a new one should be replacing it. A bird should not be bald in any
area. If baldness is occurring, veterinary evaluation is recommended. Ragged
looking birds are sick and are probably affected with some deeper underlying
problem, which should be corrected. Some birds follow a definite seasonal
pattern to their molting period that usually lasts for one to two months. This
can occur once to twice a year. More typically birds seem to shed their feathers
on a small scale throughout the year with heavier episodes of molting once or
twice a year. Perhaps this is due to the abnormal photoperiod and temperature
fluctuations they face in captivity. Molting is a time of stress, which may
cause the bird to be susceptible to infection. Quite often the bird is quieter
than normal or may seem to have an attitudinal change. Male canaries usually
stop singing during the molt and will resume when it is completed. Nutritional
needs increase during the molt. Prolonged periods of molting may also be
indicative of disease or a nutritional problem. Special measures should be
employed to minimize stress and prevent disease.

1.Heat- Guard
against chilling by increasing the ambient temperature. If the bird is ruffled
and definitely chilled, construct a homemade incubator with a heating pad on the
side of the cage perpendicular in relation to the perches with the whole cage
wrapped in saran wrap. This positioning will enable the bird to sit closer to
the pad for more heat but be able to move away if less warmth is desired. Punch
holes in the saran wrap for ventilation. Sometimes an additional cage cover can
be added. An infrared light or a 150-watt light bulb could be used as
alternative heat sources. The temperature should be maintained at 80-85 degrees.
If the bird is still ruffled and close to the heat source then more heat may be
required. Should the cage temperature become too hot, the bird will start
breathing rapidly and open-mouthed, hold its wings out from the sides of the
body and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the body that the bird
will appear unusually skinny.

2.Rest- Longer periods of rest are
needed-12 to 16 hours of darkness. A quiet area free from disturbance is helpful
to enable rest. A cage cover is helpful.

3.Security- Feather
picking and other vices are more apt to begin during the molting. Try to keep
the bird as stress free as possible during the molting period.

4.Quality diet and supplementation- Excellent nutrition is
important during the molt. An advantage feeding a bird a balanced diet such as
pellets is that molting will be less stressful due to the quality nutrition that
is being provided. If the bird is on a poor diet, supplementation is required
during the molt. Double doses of vitamins are recommended during molting as they
play a role in proper development of the feathers as well as being useful during
any stressful period. Mineral supplementation is required in the growth of
feathers. Increased protein intake during feather development is important as
protein is the key element in the feather. In certain instances of molting even
a bird that is on pellets may need some additional nutritional supplementation.

Blood Feathers- Blood feathers or pin feathers as they may also
may be termed are new feathers that are growing in during the molt, but can also
develop after a feather was plucked entirely out of the follicle. New feathers
have a blood supply that is delivered through a small hole in the tip of the
quill. The shaft of a blood feather will appear either bluish or pink due to the
presence of blood and if the shaft is damaged hemorrhage will occur. Broken
blood feathers are one of the most common emergency situations that an avian
veterinarian has to deal with in practice.

When a bird is bleeding the
source of hemorrhage should quickly be identified. If it is a broken blood
feather then the shaft of the feather should be grasped firmly with fingers or
tweezers and pulled out. Merely applying some form of hemostasis at the broken
end of the feather and not removing the entire feather may result in the clot
loosening with resultant resumption of bleeding. Pressure and clotting powder
should then be applied to the feather follicle. Using a cotton tipped applicator
dipped in the clotting powder will aid in applying it in the follicle and also
expedites placing direct pressure to the follicle, assisting in hemorrhage
control. Most bleeding episodes can be controlled with powder to aid in clotting
combined with steady pressure. Frequent dabbing or rubbing may interfere with
clot formation. After the bleeding has been controlled the bird should be placed
in a covered cage or darkened room and periodically checked for bleeding. A
follow-up visit to a veterinarian is extremely important. Agents that can be
used to stop bleeding include, styptic powder, styptic pencil, silver nitrate
sticks, commercial products such as quickstop, monsel's powder (ferric
subsulfate),or cornstarch, baking soda and flour.

D. Care of the
Feet-Infections of the feet can occur despite taking precautions such as
proper variety of perches. Be certain that the perches are clean, have at least
one soft perch available and vary the sizes of the perches. Any weight shifting,
redness, swellings, crustiness or sores on the feet/legs or lameness are
abnormal and should receive veterinary care. Unless specifically indicated for
treatment by an avian veterinarian no ointments or oils should be applied to the
feet and legs. As the bird preens this will tend to spread this material onto
the feathers causing them to become greasy or oily. This in turn interferes with
the insulative properties of the feathers and in some cases may lead to feather
loss.

E. Care of the Legs-The sole purpose of the leg band is for
identification. It should be removed to prevent problems, such as irritation or
becoming caught on something leading to a leg injury. If the leg band is
necessary then there must be regular evaluation of the banded leg. The leg band
should be freely moveable and there should be no signs of irritation, redness or
thickening on the leg. Chronic irritation of the leg from the band can lead to
swelling which would then trap the band and cause it to interfere with the
normal blood supply to the foot. Eventually the foot would undergo necrosis with
amputation required. This scenario occurs most frequently in canaries due to the
nature of their bands. Bird owners may initially notice that the bird is limping
or that the foot is turning deep red or in severe cases black. Unfortunately
they often believe that removal of the band will resolve the problem. In less
severe cases success can be achieved in this fashion. However, more commonly the
band is so tightly adhered to the leg that band removal is very difficult. In
these situations the leg may be accidentally broken in the removal process or
that once the band is removed all that remains of the tissue under the band is
bone, due to the necrosis of the normal tissue architecture. Clients should be
warned in a severe case of necrosis or tight adherence of the band that damage
such as fracture may occur in the removal process. They should be also informed
of the possibility that toes or the foot may be lost, a certainty with
blackening of the toes or feet. Following removal where there has been
significant trauma, antibiotic therapy and bandaging is usually indicated.

F. Care of the Skin-Since the skin is protected by feathers, no
special care is needed. As mentioned before when discussing the feet never apply
any oil or grease to the skin/feathers for reasons discussed in the earlier
section.

G. Care of the Eyes, Ears and Nose-A discharge from any
of these areas indicates trouble. The area should be kept clean. Wipe the area
with warm water or a mild antiseptic solution. Nothing oily should ever be
applied to these areas unless recommended for treatment by a veterinarian.
Discharges from these sites should receive veterinary attention.

H.
Care of the Uropygial (Tail/Oil) Gland--Not all birds possess this gland
which secretes an oily material that is used during preening. However, birds
that do not possess the gland preen just fine and if a bird had the gland
removed surgically they seem to still preen normally. This gland should be
checked annually during the physical examination. If the bird is pecking
excessively at the top of the tail there may be a problem with the gland.
Problems include impaction, infection or tumor.

I. Weight-Once a
bird becomes an adult, the weight should remain relatively constant. Checking
the weight occasionally, especially at the yearly physical examination, will
provide valuable information of the state of health. Merely looking at a bird
will give no indication as to its weight due to the feathering. Feeling the
breastbone may give some idea, but weighing on a scale is ideal.

J.
Sex Determination-This can be difficult and mistakes are made. The
reproductive organs of the bird are internal so means are needed other than
visualization. The cere (contains the nostrils) of the parakeet is blue in most
males and may be pale blue to dark brown in the female. In most other birds
there are no easy guidelines. Unless for breeding purposes there is real need to
know the sex of a bird. Experienced breeders do an excellent job and can sex
certain varieties of birds with reasonable accuracy before selling. When needed
a veterinarian could verify the sex by a simple surgical procedure where the
internal organs are visualized. Surgical sexing is usually performed for
breeders who would like verification of the sex of a bird and also an evaluation
of the condition of the gonads as well as other organs visualized during the
laparoscopic technique. Determining the sex of a bird through DNA analysis of a
blood sample has proven to be a safe and effective technique. It is performed by
commercial laboratories and is being used widely.

K. Annual Physical
Examination by a Veterinarian-Birds hide their problems so effectively that
they need annual examinations by a veterinarian. This should include a 'hands
on' physical examination, weight check and laboratory tests of the droppings and
the blood. Yearly reminders should be sent to avian clients to encourage them to
come in for the annual physical examination.

VI. Signs of Sickness in
Pet BirdsBirds hide their problems very effectively so that when they
begin to obviously manifest their illness, they are already seriously to
critically ill. The bird that dies "suddenly" had probably been sick for some
time and was not recognized as being abnormal. Birds are actually very hardy and
tolerate problems as well as any other animal. If given a chance, birds can live
a long life. Because of this difficulty in detecting illnesses early, it is of
utmost importance to the owner to be familiar with the signs of illness. If they
recognize any of the signs of illness they should be encouraged to bring the
bird in for an examination. Quite often when a bird is brought in for an annual
check-up subtle disease changes may be discovered before they cause serious
illness.

General signs of illness include: 1. Change in the
character of the droppings or a decrease in the number or volume. 2. Change
in food or water consumption. 3. Change in attitude-generally observed as
decreased activity or talking less, singing less or no response to stimuli.
4. Change in the bird's appearance or posture-a sick bird will generally
ruffle their feathers, begin closing their eyes in a sleepy fashion and will be
sitting low on the perch (droopy). 5. Any noticeable breathing while
resting, heavy breathing after exertion, change in character of the voice and
any respiratory sounds-sneeze, wheeze or click. 6. Any enlargement-even fat
is abnormal in a bird. 7. Unusual crustiness on the face/beak or feet/legs

VII. Emergency Care for Pet Birds (temporary care until the bird is
seen by a veterinarian) If ever a bird sits with its feathers ruffled, eyes
partially closed, droopy appearance or if there are signs of diarrhea or
respiratory problems, the bird should be treated immediately. Also, any bird
which has been injured, sustained a broken leg or wing, bitten by a cat, dog or
other animal, burned or chilled, should likewise be started on emergency care.

A. Heat/Incubator - As mentioned in an earlier section, a
temporary incubator can be made by placing a heating pad alongside the cage and
then the entire cage is wrapped with plastic (saran wrap) and holes made for
ventilation. Sometimes an additional cage cover can be added. An infrared light
or a 150-watt light bulb could be used as alternative heat sources. The
temperature should be maintained at 80-85 degrees. Should the cage temperature
become too hot, the bird will start breathing rapidly, hold its wings out from
the sides of the body and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the
body that the bird will appear unusually skinny.

B. Droppings-
Start counting droppings. The number, volume and appearance is of great
importance to the veterinarian, so save the cage papers and bring them in with
the bird for evaluation.

C. Nutrition/Fluids- A bird that stops
eating dies. Therefore, every effort must be made to encourage the bird to eat.
Cups of food are placed adjacent to where the bird is perched, food can be
scattered on the bottom of the cage if the bird is off the perch. The
veterinarian will immediately force-feed a bird that is not eating by passing a
feeding tube into the crop. To give the bird an extra boost of energy, sugar can
be added to the water if the bird is still drinking. Care must be taken with
some antibiotics administered in the drinking water as they may cause the water
to have an unpleasant taste and the bird may avoid the water and further
dehydrate. If possible giving watered down sugar solution by eyedropper to a
weakened bird may be lifesaving if the stress of handling is not too great.

D. Rest- Sick birds need rest, and thus, should be in a darkened
room or covered to insure 12-16 hours of sleep. A two-hour nap in the morning
and afternoon is advisable.

E. Bleeding- The source of bleeding
should be identified. If it is a broken blood feather then the shaft of the
feather should be grasped firmly with your fingers or tweezers and pulled out.
Pressure and clotting powder should then be applied to the feather follicle.
Most bleeding episodes can be controlled with powder to aid in clotting and
steady pressure. Frequent dabbing or rubbing may interfere with clot formation.
After the bleeding has been controlled the bird should be placed in a covered
cage or darkened room and periodically checked for bleeding. A follow-up visit
to a veterinarian is extremely important. Agents that can be used to stop
bleeding include, styptic powder, styptic pencil, silver nitrate sticks,
commercial products such as quickstop, monsel's powder (ferric sub sulfate),
cornstarch, baking soda and flour. Don'ts *don't give whiskey *don't give
laxatives *don't use oils *don't stop food or water Telephone your
veterinarian for assistance.

VIII. ConclusionHopefully
these tips on bird care will enable you to provide the best quality care for
your pet birds, insuring a long, healthy and happy relationship.