Hello, I am developing a line of toys made with PVC pipes. Take a look at these two instructables. https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Pipe-Figures/ and https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Pipe-Dragon/

The PVC soil pipe under our bathroom has developed a slow leak. This pipe is inaccessible as it runs under a platform that lifts the bathroom above the concrete floor of our enclosed garage. It may be a crack in the pipe (unlikely) or a connection between the tub and the main pipe (more likely). Is there a liquid sealant that I can pour into the tub drain that will seal this obviously small opening?

I have a question for spudgunners and other people who know about PVC. I've heard that PVC becomes bitter at low temperatures, so you shouldn't expose your spudgun to low temperature, but is it okay to leave it out in the cold and then warm it back up for use later? Does that affect the strength of the PVC?
I have a problem storing some PVC in an heated environment during the winter.

I'm trying to build a bed loft type thing similar to this I'm thinking about using pvc pipe though because its cheaper/easier, but my only worry is if it will hold weight. I want to put a hammock on the bottom (occasionally 2 people so ~250lbs) and a piece of plywood on top to make a shelf. Thanks

Hi I live in England but i have no idea where to get pvc, there are loads of projects I would like to do that involve it but I just can't seem to get hold of it. I've tried B&Q plus a few others but they don't seem to have it. Does anybody know where it is sold?

What I'm trying to accomplish: a usable dishwasher spray arm, that can attach to a PVC pipe, for reasonably cheap. I'm not against buying one, and I've looked at this one, which is snap-on, and this one, which has a nicer price but it's hard to tell how exactly it might work (or more likely, not work). I mean, how would you ever attach that to PVC? And the former is a little on the expensive side. I've also thought of making one out of PVC, since you could easily drill small holes in a piece of PVC pipe and stick them onto a T. But that has the problem of not being able to spin at all, much less spin on its own. I have searched long and hard and have not been able to find any sort of rotary union that would work (and I'm afraid even if I did, it may not allow free passage of water). A solution for spinning on its own may be as simple as making the pipes "bent," so the water would force it to spin as it goes around the corner. TL;DR: How can I make/buy a dishwasher spray arm that can attach to PVC (actually two of them)? And in case you're wondering, yes, this is for a dishwasher (DIY). Thanks for the help!

So I was thinking of building a catamaran out of two pieces of PVC pipe, either 6 inch or 8 inch. I don't know how long it would have to be to support me or maybe others. Does anyone know of a buoyancy calculator I could use to try to figure this out? Or maybe I could use ABS plastic. This is very easy to heat and bend. This way I could actually shape it a little more, instead of having it just be round and less controllable.

Hi, I'm a soccer coach. I'd like to make some inexpensive posts to serve as obstacles/markers that I can use indoors. I have 5' pvc pipe, but can't seem to locate or concoct something to hold the posts upright both affordably and that aren't too wide to get in the way of the players or the soccer ball. Ideally, I'd have something that is only a few inches wide with a 3/4" hole in the center to hold my 3/4" pvc. Thus far, the best thing I can come up with are a few 2.5/5lb thick plastic weight plates where the center hole happens to be just about 3/4" wide. Those seem to quite difficult to come by though! The next closest thing I've found were either heavy steel flanges or rubber mounts specifically designed to hold plastic posts. At $8 or more/each though, I was hoping to find something a little less expensive. Anyone have any ideas?

Ok, here's one I thought I'd throw open to the masses.... I'm knocking off the last of a fully automated self-sufficient watering system that runs completely off grey/rainwater. However, the coke can guttering is not working in this position as it has previously :( I was thinking of using PVC piping, cut lengthwise for guttering. However, I'm working out the logistics of cutting it. It can't be cut directly in half - this would be too shallow to catch the runoff from the chicken shed. and funnel it down to the tanks, so I'm looking at removing a chunk of the top. And I also have no table saw. Wheee. What I do have Dremel (x2) with associated cutting wheels Jig saw (With associated plastic cutting blades) Circular Saw Mitre saw Hand saws (tenon, crosscut, hack, pruning, etc) So, here's one that I'm throwing open. With the tools I have, how would you do it? I'm leaning towards the dremel, but there would probably be issues with maintaining a straight line (not that I care about some warp, it's a gutter) Ideas? *EDIT* Ended up using a jig saw with an acrylic cutting blade. Worked a treat.

Hi, I'm trying to source some PVC piping in Germany, the fairly thin type that seems to be used in a lot projects on here. I've tried my local Baumarkt, Obi, and while the have some rather thick grey piping of the type that's used for plumbing, it's not really suitable for what I want, and the range of connectors is not ver comprehensive. Could anyone let me know of a supplier for this stuff that would deliver to Germany? Thanks for reading!

There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.

Hello, I would like to know if anyone has any advise about building a 3d printer with 1/2 inch pvc piping. The pipe will be used for the rails, because they are cheaper than metal rods. I want to modify t connectors so that they are what slides along the pipe.The pipe will be parallel, and held together by right angle elbows. I will mount it on a flat board. Is there any problems I may encounter? Thanks for any help.

The short version: I have an old PVC sewer drain pipe that comes up out of a concrete slab floor. Under the floor, the other end of the pipe connects to other drain pipes in the house, so before I cover the area with more carpeting, I'd like to seal that pipe off permanently to avoid any possible leakage in the future. I'd like to avoid disturbing the concrete floor, if possible. I'd like to put some kind of plug in the pipe and glue it into place with common PVC primer and cement, but I don't know if there's any kind of plug made for this purpose. Any suggestions? The details: I've taken down a non-load-bearing wall in my house. The wall used to carry pipes for water (coming down from the second floor above), natural gas (embedded in the concrete slab floor), and sewer (also embedded in the slab). These were all used for a poorly-positioned laundry room. I've easily sealed the copper pipes for the water and natural gas, but I'm left wondering what to do with this two-inch sewer drain pipe. At first, I thought of covering it with a PVC cap, but to do that, I would need to chip away part of the concrete floor far enough down so the cap wouldn't be above the floor surface. I would also need to be careful not to break the pipe as I chipped away the concrete. If I were successful with that and then glued a cap on at the right height, then I would need to fill the space around it with a small amount of concrete. Besides not wanting to damage the pipe, I'm sure I'd make a real mess of the carpet nearby. Then, I thought, rather than gluing a cap over the *outside* of the pipe, maybe there's some kind of cap that I can glue on the *inside* of it istead. However, I don't know of any such pipe fitting. It seems that all the home improvement stores around here sell fittings that go on the outside of the pipe. So I'm looking for creative ways to plug up the end of this pipe. The other end of this pipe connects to other sewer pipes in the house that are currently in use. I thought of possibly pouring a cement-like substance into the pipe to seal it, but I can't guarantee that it wouldn't go into the rest of the system and cause a disastrous plug for the whole thing. PS: Excuse the orientation of the photos I've attached to this posting. They looked fine on my phone, but when I upload them to Instructables, the site insists on rotating them. PPS: I do plan to cut the PVC pipe off even with the floor just before sealing it. I'll use my trusty Dremel Multi-Max for that.

Dear sir, I'm in title to use pvc cement to glue with it upvc pipes & fittings, pls advise if applicable & works which I had been using it before & it works . advise also ur recommended materails to use .

Dear: Instructables community Hello this is me Noah with another project of mine. Just to let you know I am making a PVC bow and I am having trouble following a step in this video on the internet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ib_hH49p6g Honestly I thought the video seemed like it could work but the second last step isn't working for me. It involves using 1" PVC pipe to slid over 3/4" PVC pipe. What I did was I cut through one side of the PVC and it still wouldn't slide through all the way. Then I began using a rubber mallet with some 3/4" wrench and it still won't work. Honestly guys he never explained how to slide the pipe through and he just said to do it. How do I slide the 12" pipe in the middle of 60" pipe? Thank you. From: Noah UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Dear: Instructables community Just to let you know problem solved. I have no idea how necessary putting the PVC pipe over that but I think the problem is solved. I think I am going to use something else for a grip. Thank you guys for everything!!! From: Noah

Hi i accidentally drilled 3 hole in a 100mm pvc rain water drain pipe which comes from my roof. any ideas on how to fix this without breaking and chopping the wall?the pipe is behind a brick wall. please any help would be appreciated. thank you

Anyone know how to make a PVC pipe Coin Dispenser Belt? Push a button & out pops a coin from one of fore tubes hanging on your belt. I need to know what size pipe to use, how the triggers work to spit the coins out & how to put it all together.

I want to bend my pvc pipe into a circle without compromising the inside shape. I have tried to do this but it continues to pinch where i want the round to be. I have tried putting sand inside but perhaps i did something wrong because it didn't work.

The size of this roof top is 8250mm x 6250mm on concrete. I want to use the PVC pipe system. A vegatable garden. I want to know the details of how to go about to install this. If possible can some come up with an Idea.

I'm looking to make a hot wire foam cutter, and have most of the setup all outlined. However, the 'bow' still need to be made, and I plan to use PVC. Reason being is I would like to be able to stick some four/three way bends on one ended as to allow me to stick the bow on a stand of sorts to make a band-saw style hot wire. But, question at hand: if I were to make a frame out of PCB piping for a hotwire, would the tension of the hotwire cause the frame to warp? And if so, what would be an equally cheap option for the frame? Thanks!

I'm trying to pass a PVC pipe through a plastic lid into a plastic box without leaking water from the pipe or the box. The water in the pipe will be pressurized, while the water in the box will be splashed. A small leak isn't a big deal. Unfortunately, this is also a bit of a stress point, though not terribly. See the picture and the diagram below (which is actually not quite right; the pipe on the top won't be that long; it will turn 90 degrees just above the plastic lid. Any suggestions on how to keep it from leaking? Perhaps make the T under the lid flush with the lid and the same for the elbow joint above it, and then make the hole as small as possible? That wouldn't keep all water out though, but it may work for splashes. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

I am trying to make a van de graff genertor i have bought some drain pipe for around 2 quid, i later realised that it is not PVC. it is made out of ABS. please can you tell me if it will work, and if it will be as good as PVC Thanks for your help

I'm installing a new heater for a spa and am having trouble hooking up the plumbing. I am using 2" PVC and have built the whole manifold from the filter to the heater and to the return to the spa, but I can't figure out how to hook it up to the existing pipe that returns the hot water to the spa. It sticks up about 5" out of the cement pad where all the equipment is located, but it's not a standard size/shape. It's shaped like a car radiator's hose nipple with a bulge between two narrower bits so that you could put a hose over it and clamp it behind the bulge but i'm trying not to do it that way since the hoses that are used with PVC aren't meant for pressure or heat. That is how it was originally hooked up but when I took it apart the hose was all deteriorated on the inside. None of the exposed part is a standard size where I could just cut it and bond a coupling on. I was thinking about trying to use a radiator hose but don't know what the spa chemicals would do to it.?

I see a lot of projects that use or re-use different grades of PVC pipe due to its easy use and availability. Free or cheap PVC seems to be a good material choice for those who lack the tools and skills needed for metal or wood work. I suggest that builder rethink this choice. Exposure to PVC is dangerous to your health. Fumes and dust from cutting, drilling and accidental burning or overheating PVC are known to cause cancer.A few points:PVC production is the largest use of chlorine gas in the world.Chlorine production consumes enormous amounts of energy.Chlorine production causes mercury pollution. Hazardous by-products are formed throughout the PVC lifecycle.By-products of PVC production are highly persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic.PVC is extremely difficult to recycle.PVC is one of the most environmentally hazardous consumer materials ever produced.source: http://www.healthybuilding.net/pvc/ThorntonPVCSummary.htmlDifferent grades of PVC have different melting points, flash and glass temperatures. At 70-80 Degrees C (~150 F), most grades begin to soften and degrade in performance. This should be taken into account when building projects that involve any kind of direct or indirect heat, including hot water, etc.(I've edited this post to contain more useful information)

Hi there everyone I am in a process of building a PVC bike trailer out of 40 mm PN 20 type of pipe. At the neck of the trailer where the cross-shaped yellow piece swivels horizontally - permitting the trailer turn left and right - , and just under it, where the lower red elbows swivel vertically - permitting the trailer to move up and down - are the two white pipes that i want to shave 1 or a bit more mm off of. I bought the materials but in a very interesting way the pipes don't fit inside the fittings. They need to be warmed up and then they fit inside one another getting stuck forever. No glue needed. If i buy the next largest fitting size - 50 mm - the gap is just too big. So it's a no go. That's why I ask you people: How do i shave off 1-2 mm of the white pipes in the picture so they slide in easily in the fittings? I want to point out that unfortunately I don't have access to any heavy-duty machinery. So a manual way of doing this would be much appreciated. P.S. the red dots on the picture are fixed points or dabs of glue if you like. The green dots mark out the movements of the components. For example the yellow cross is glued to the green pipes witch are glued to the red elbows witch in turn are glued to the other green pipes. Here only the yellow cross swivels on the vertical white pipe. :) I hope you got it :)

I have an idea for a bike, where you lay down to use it, sort of like a recumbent, except on your stomach instead. it would be motor powered, and have 2 back tires and one front tire, steered by two steel (or maybe some other material) cables directly attached to the handle bars via a smaller bar at the bottom of the handle bars. it would probably have 48v's worth of batteries, and the chassis would most likely be made out of PVC piping. (unless that isnt a good material for this) i would be designing the bike around me, there might be a camera display so i can see behind me, headlights and tail lights for at night, and most definitely some brakes, maybe disc brakes. i weigh about 100lbs, so the pvc piping should be able to support my weight, i was thinking of using 1.5" or 2" diameter pvc piping, should i use something with a wider diameter? the base of the chassis would be made from 4 pvc pipes arranged in a square, with the pipes about 2"-4" apart. does anyone think this design is totally impossible? or could it work out? i want to know before i buy anything. on the strength of pvc pipes, my friend once had a pvc bike trailer that was capable of supporting my weight, he has since taken it apart to use the pvc in other projects. it was 2" pvc pipes used on that trailer.

I see so many good things about PVC pipe used for building things. In America you seem to be able to get lots of sizes of pipe and specialist fittings. In the UK in bricks and mortar stores we are limited to just plumbing supplies. ie 21mm 32mm and 40mm pipe - we cant get corner 3 way fittings, 4 or way, or any of the many pipe termination specials. I have a project in mind for which 25mm pipe would be ideal, but i need 5-way connectors, as well as some simple end teminations that push INTO the pipes not OVER the end. I have googled until my fingertips bleed but can only find this supplier in the UK http://www.ixi-devices.com/index.php/PVC-Structure-Connectors-Fittings-Clamps-and-Kits/View-all-products/Page-7 Frankly the prices are ridiculous - almost 6 times the equivalent US price - what goes for $1 in the states is around £4 in the UK thats just nonsense. Does anyone know any UK or even European outlet that will sell smallish quantities to me in the UK without these prices and without astronomical shipping and import charges? Help please.