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How many people attend this "Cup"...Because it seems as if Everything comes out at it..And what is the point of another board, if it has the same code on it? to me, that doesn't make sense unless you plan on making a better, bigger code then they already have.

How many people attend this "Cup"...Because it seems as if Everything comes out at it..And what is the point of another board, if it has the same code on it? to me, that doesn't make sense unless you plan on making a better, bigger code then they already have.

Oh, and the 400th post of this thread, wow.

hype..but hey, I don't think anyone gives a frick about the board in this frame compared to the rest of it. As long as it has all the current firing modes I think we're happy.

How many people attend this "Cup"...Because it seems as if Everything comes out at it..And what is the point of another board, if it has the same code on it? to me, that doesn't make sense unless you plan on making a better, bigger code then they already have.

Oh, and the 400th post of this thread, wow.

"Cup" would be World Cup. You know, the biggest tournament of the year.

Companies always unveil stuff there because it is essentially the end of the playing season, and the start of the Chirstmas buying season. Its just good marketing.

And, having seen these boards, I can say that they will be appreciated. The code is getting better every day, the boards are getting more elegant, and the whole deal is getting more reliable.

I have not been paying too much attention to this thread since I have been waiting for my dop in Emag board . I must say however, you have done a fantastic job on these. I LOVE everthing you did with it and on top of that it looks outstanding!

Almost makes me want to sell my Emag and build one of these. I think this will be great for all Mag owners in the long run. Just wanted to say great job and thank you very much.

..And what is the point of another board, if it has the same code on it? to me, that doesn't make sense unless you plan on making a better, bigger code then they already have.

Cause the board will be able to be used in any marker, so I'll finally have a board to put in my e-tippy project.

Coolhand you mentinoed before about asking Palmer to do a special stab, do you think he would do one that would be styled like a mag sidline stab? Cause I might get one for my longbow but I don't want a gas through gripp set-up

I just purchased MadPSIence's spot and I have a few questions that may have been answered already, I do apoligize if they were. But how thick are the lazer engraving lines going to be? I'm trying to figure out how to make my design. And also is the official name of the frame the Logic Ripper EM?

Thanks,
Zack

Oh and if any of you are good with photoshop PM I have a project for you.

Cause the board will be able to be used in any marker, so I'll finally have a board to put in my e-tippy project.

Coolhand you mentinoed before about asking Palmer to do a special stab, do you think he would do one that would be styled like a mag sidline stab? Cause I might get one for my longbow but I don't want a gas through gripp set-up

I think that a regular sideline stabilizer will work without any modifications other than changing the fittings. You'll need to put a close nipple where the QD is now, and then an 18" NPT -> #10-32 reducing bushing on the output port to installs a hose barb there. That's all just screwing fittings together though.

You'll just need to cut a tiny notch in the underside of the grip cheek on that side to sneak the hose inside the frame. That's easily done with an exacto knife.

I just purchased MadPSIence's spot and I have a few questions that may have been answered already, I do apoligize if they were. But how thick are the lazer engraving lines going to be? I'm trying to figure out how to make my design. And also is the official name of the frame the Logic Ripper EM?

Thanks,
Zack

Oh and if any of you are good with photoshop PM I have a project for you.

They laser doesn't have a set width. It has a minimum width, but no maximum.

You just draw it to suit you, and then if I have to modify it to make it work I will get your approval before we actually engrave your frame.

The official project name is the Ultimate Electro Mag Frame (UEF for short).

I dropped the Ripper title from all of my stuff out of deference to Jim Eaton (Ripper Machinist on PBN), who has been using that name for years. I didn't realize that all the Ripper stuff was the same guy (the cockers, the timmys, all the random cool stuff). I got to talk to him about a month ago, and he said he got calls all the time about my stuff, because people were getting confused, so I dropped the tag and renamed everything.

It sound graphed out at just a fuzz over 20bps. That's a stock HALO-B too, so I'm going to guess that its just not going to go faster than that (already using fresh batteries).

I'll see what I can do with the Cheetah HALO I've got kicking around here though.

One thing I did notice, is that you basically can't dry fire this thing. If you set the board timing to let you dry fire, its unnecessarily slow with the eyes on (since you also have a BIP delay when the eyes are on). If you set to to be fast with the eyes on (like in the video), it will chuff and short-stroke like a madman when you try to use it with them off, since the BIP delay is ignored when the eyes are off.

But, that's OK, you just have to shoot paint to show off.

It is fast as hell, I will say that.

The paint I used was nearly two (2) years old. Its basically zero bounce, and kinda funny shaped. I'm really amazed that the HALO fed it as well as it did. Its all that I had here ATM, so its what I used. The video is so short, because that's all the paint I had. I will take a longer vid when I get some more paint bought.

There's the video you all wanted though. The doubters can go suck an egg now.

Note that I added a second detent, and moved the eye covers so that they fit like they were supposed to. If you have me do the eye install, I will pop a second detent in the body for another $10 (the machine work doesn't take much time, the money is mostly just to cover the second detent).

Also of note is the disappearance of the ghettorific On/Off switch. It has been replaced by the snifty little slider switch I was talking about a week or two ago.

If you would rather have a MiniMaxFlo like the on that is on that marker, its not a problem. It will add $25 to the price (the little buggers are $60 friggin dollars ). The cost goes up, but I think they look better (they sure are a lot smaller than the ANS reg). I thought it best to leave it up to the customer.