Hello all
I am a long time lurker at these wonderful forums. Never had a reason to chime in or ask any questions until now. I have a situation, and I could use some help.
around 2000-01 I had an older "gun buddy" I met at a gun range. He dealt in guns and we became friends. After I bought many rifles from him, he bacame ill and before he passed away He gave me this Mauser and said "I want you to have this Kid, Its gunna be worth alot someday. Do whatever you want with it." He knew I loved history.
He told me it was a 1939 steyr mauser K98, made in austria, for the germans.
He pointed out the stampings and cartouches, told me very little about it, and died shortly after.

I recently got my CPL, and now I am trying to clear out some of my old rifles to get a couple different carry pieces. I put the mauser up on a local gun board, and I was offered a nice Taurus .357 magnum in trade for the mauser.The gentleman seems very legit, he does not know too much about mausers, but loves the idea of a real german mauser in his collection.

The mauser I have has all correct numbers except the bolt. Its serial number is 3562

On the bolt side there are 3 eagle with swastika stamps and WGA623 under them

On top of the reciever is 1939 above it a 660, and right above that is a 79

On the non bolt hadle side is the serial number 3562 with a eagle and swastika to the left and a "b" under the serial number

Bolt hadle side, the stock has 3 cartouches, with the eagle holding a swastika on the bottom most 2 and the WGA623 under, and the top most cartouch seems to have a letter under it.."L"?

The sights are a graduated slider type out to 18 (1800 meters?)

The buttplate is wierd as it wraps around the rifle, but it has the same serial numbers on it.

The sling mounts are odd as it has a mount for the side and under mounting options, The sling, I was told, is correct and original to the gun.

There are 2 "X's" carved in the stock from a very long time ago ( I am a former high end finish carpenter, I can tell these marks are nothing recent) Possibly Kills?

I was just cleaning it and took pics of it with a strait bolt that has a moon on it (islamic mauser) that is how I got it. I purchased a (soppossed) german bent bolt for the gun, but did not picture it with it as I was just cleaning it.

I did a search and found some of these 660 rifle going for as much as $3000!! even missing the correct bolt?!?! I am just asking if anyone can help, before I make a huge mistake, or is the deal to trade is fair? Should I try to sell the gun outright?

I sincerely appreciate any and all insight as to what the value of this rifle could be. I will not go into too much detail, but times are tough, and if I could buy new handguns now, I would, but I really cant afford that now.

DO NOT trade that Mauser for the revolver. That looks like an original G.29 that was produced for the Luftwaffe. The straight bolt may be correct for that rifle but you'll need to post some photos of the proofs on it. Its sounds like the original was replaced with a Turk bolt but I'd like to see the photos to make sure. I'll check my copy of Mauser Military Rifles of the world tomorrow morning and get back to you.

I AGREE!!!! DO NOT TRADE that Mauser for the revolver! That revolver is nowhere in the ballpark of the value of your mauser. I'm no expert, but I do know you don't see those types of German Mausers very often. You could get a Taurus revolver any day of the week.

You've definitely got a legit G29 so it should have a straight bolt. The mark on that bolt knob looks more like a C to me not a crescent moon like the Turks used. If you want to get the most money for that rifle I would put it up on Gunbroker since most WW2 German rifles have been going very high lately. Something rare like your G29 should bring some decent money. I think the overall rarity of the piece will counter the non matching bolt somewhat.

^Lmao...Im learning. Like I said, Im hip on US service stuff, but I just kept hearing from guys at shows that I brought the rifle to, They just said, "Nahh..I wont give no more that $200 for that" I would NEVER let a real piece of history go for that cheap so ive held on to it.

Glad I did, with all your help. I have had some DAMN good offers so far. Im really just looking to either trade up for something modern or sell it and buy something. I have had a love affair with a sig 552/6 since I played with one awhile ago. A few of the offers I have had will allow me to do that.

You guys are the best. I mean it. Thanks again! If any guys here know of "mauser guys" that would like this for thier collection, let them know this one is available.

I've been doing this for awhile - NEVER trade, NEVER (if you want to maximize your return, i.e.).

Also, rarely sell locally, and NEVER to an FFL dealer, since the dealers must buy low to make a profit & stay in business, and most locals have no clue as to real world value.

While the pics you have are good, I'd take a few more bright/clear ones of the areas of interest, like the BP, then put the rifle on gunbroker in a 7-day auction and a $0.01 starting bid - and watch the fun begin. (the frantic bidding won't start until just before the auction end)

If you're the nervous type, you can enter a hidden reserve (say, $900) - but I've never had to.

Be sure to include in your ad a complete verbal description and the codicil that the buyer's FFL must agree to accept shipment (I use USPS Priority Mail, Insured) from a non-FFL (you), and payment must be via certified check or US Postal Money Order only.

I've been doing this for awhile - NEVER trade, NEVER (if you want to maximize your return, i.e.).

I don't agree with this advice. Trades need to be looked at on a case by case basis. I have made good trades overall because I made sure I knew what I was giving up and knew what I was getting. I once traded a Hakim 8mm (Average condition) Walther P38 (import marked / reblued) and a Savage 24 22/20g for a Remington 722 222 with a norman ford 6x scope, and a S&W model 44 magnum with cokes (pre model 29) from 1958. I had about $975 in those three, I sold the norman ford scope for $100 and the remington for $400 and so I have $475 for an all original 6.5 in 4 screw pre model 29 from 58. While that does not happen a lot, it can and does happen. Sometimes a trade is good because the other party over values your items, and sometimes its because they under value their own. Of course I don't trade very often, but I've did well doing it when I did.

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If you're the nervous type, you can enter a hidden reserve (say, $900) - but I've never had to.

I also don't use reserves for auctions, because it turns people off. I think its better to be upfront with the item. If you have to have $900, start for $900.
Often times someone who uses a reserve wants a lot for their item, and so I avoid those auctions often (not always). When you come out and ask $900 its better for business IMO. I've sold many guns and never used a reserve. In the end I usually got at least what I wanted, and sometimes much more.

As petah says, be sure to take good CLEAR photos, and many of them, and type up a good description. You want a buyer to be confident in you and confident in the gun. You also want to make a better ad than the competition. Imagine if YOU were buying it and then go from there.

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