Tiny and proud, Montenegro – “Black Mountain” – has something of the fairy tale about it. The land seems to be put together by magic. A cobalt-blue fjord, a dark tor, fishermen’s huts in a sunny cove, a rocky path disappearing into woods, palaces, a church in a cave, an island built on the wrecks of enemy boats – all stitched closely into patchwork, with a logic of its own.