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The Outback XT that I will most likely buy has a very stiff clutch. It seems to work fine, but the pedal is surprisingly hard to push in. Based on what I have read, that is either normal or what happens as a clutch starts to wear out. In any case, the fix is apparently a new clutch. Where is a good place to have that done and about what should it cost (assuming stock or similar)? Ideally it would be done in the east valley as I live in far SE Chandler? FWIW, the car has 57,500 miles on it...

Is your car a cable clutch? If it is, I'd bet the cable is corroded or dirty. As this occurs, the pedal becomes stiffer and stiffer. Eventually the cable will break.

If your car is a able clutch, I'd recommending servicing the cable or replacing it all together before starting in on the clutch. I'd bet the clutch is just fine.

It could also be that the ball in socket pivot of the clutch fork is dried out and full of clutch dust. This makes the pedal very stiff with time. A little high pressure grease fixes that right up. I always do this when doing clutches. It's a night and day difference after 80K or so that a clutch lasts and people always attribute it to the new clutch, but it's not that at all. Unfortunately, this requires separating the trans and motor...

The other alternative, though less likely, is that the throw out bearing is rubbing on the input shaft snout of the trans and the lubrication between them is gone/dried up/dirty. This requires separating the two to service. But I doubt that's it.

I am told it is hydraulic, like my current '97 Outback. The Superstore service dept. guy said there is nothing that can be checked without taking things apart. I like the car, but this clutch thing could be a deal breaker, it is that stiff and I don't think the seller would be down with knocking another grand off the price. Is it likely that it could be fluid related, as previously suggested? Thanks, Doug

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpluiten

Is your car a cable clutch? If it is, I'd bet the cable is corroded or dirty. As this occurs, the pedal becomes stiffer and stiffer. Eventually the cable will break.

If your car is a cable clutch, I'd recommending servicing the cable or replacing it all together before starting in on the clutch. I'd bet the clutch is just fine.

It could also be that the ball in socket pivot of the clutch fork is dried out and full of clutch dust. This makes the pedal very stiff with time. A little high pressure grease fixes that right up. I always do this when doing clutches. It's a night and day difference after 80K or so that a clutch lasts and people always attribute it to the new clutch, but it's not that at all. Unfortunately, this requires separating the trans and motor...

The other alternative, though less likely, is that the throw out bearing is rubbing on the input shaft snout of the trans and the lubrication between them is gone/dried up/dirty. This requires separating the two to service. But I doubt that's it.

There's a chance it could be fluid related, but they I would assume that would be a blockage which would result in a slow pedal press/return, not just a stiff one. So I'm not thinking it's that.

My bet is on the ball and socket being dry then. Just from my past experiences. They can get pretty bad. Again, this is speculation, of course.

I would figure you could have a new clutch kit and resurfaced flywheel in that car for well under $1000. The clutch kit for that car (new Exedy kit, OEM manufacturer)runs about $150 or less on Amazon. Labor would be $600 or less. I would think. When I did clutches, I typically charged $300-$400 depending on the car and person and mood. But I'm also not a shop. And of course, have them service the clutch fork while they are in there.

There are a couple of cool independent Subaru shops around you could call for a quote. The car sounds really cool with only 57K on it. That's a heck of a find, depending on price. If you decide to pass on it, let me know the seller's information as I can do the work myself which makes these deals a bit in my favor.

Just had an 09 WRX in our shop with totally busted CCI clutch. And it was wicked stiff as well. Just like kpluiten pointed out the reason (other than the clutch itself was toast) was dry ball/socket and buildup of clutch material in between the TOB and the shaft...