MFW: BLUMARINE F/W 2014

Another beautiful day in Milan, with the sun shining, birds chirping, and the coffee tastes particularly wonderful as we take our seats for the first show of a not-too-busy day. There’s nothing quite like starting the day with a favorite label and having that label fulfill your expectations in beautiful fashion. Such is exactly what happened with Blufin Group’s premier label, Blumarine. Anna Molinari really poured on the luxury for the fall/winter 2014 collection, but didn’t loose the sexy edge she’s built into this label.

By “sexy edge” I mean you’re not wearing anything from this label to work in the Midwest. At least, not to any job that doesn’t involve dimly lit rooms and serving alcohol. These are clothes meant for a night out, one where you want to catch some attention; one where you want to generate your own heat. As innocent as sister label Blugirl is, Blumarine goes exactly the opposite direction, with deep-plunging necklines, super-short skirts, impossibly high heels (in which models walked surprisingly well), and tantalizing sheers. Putting on Blumarine is signalling to the world that you’re ready for a party.

Gold really seems to be the dominant color in Milan this season and Anna drops plenty of it into this collection right from the beginning and scattered liberally throughout. Gold leaf print on black and blue silk sets a standard for luxury that she carries throughout the entire collection. The Blumarine girl doesn’t drink cheap beer, but only the best wine and champagne. The premiere piece here is an absolutely wonderful black cape with gold lining. Broad shoulders keep it from looking pedestrian, and the reverse print on the inside helps to create an A-line opening that is dramatic. Enter a room wearing this ensemble and folks are going to need to see a chiropractor.

Molinari gives us a significantly darker palette this year than she did for 2013. There are no pastels at all, and the styles themselves take on a harder edge. There are no soft business suits this year. Instead, she gives us leather jumpsuits in blue and black, and fitted leather two-piece separates. Comfort would seem to turn in favor of the separates, which contain a little more styling and gives one a few more options for making the look your own. Leather factors stronger in this collection, also, and the addition of boots so high you can’t see the top is taking a good idea to the extreme. When you stop and think about it, this look makes total sense. If one is going to wear impossibly short skirts in the middle of winter, one needs boots like this that are tall enough to meet the skirt hem and keep your legs warm while looking incredibly stylish.

Fall/winter collections needs a few holiday looks, which usually means sequins. Fortunately, Anna keeps the sequins to a minimum, holding them to the last three looks, and then limiting them to a very attractive and interesting waterfall pattern that comes over the right shoulder. Done ever so gently on silk, the dresses provide just enough sparkle without being overbearing.

Blumarine looks absolutely incredible this season and remains at the top of my “must buy” list for after 5 looks. Be watching for this collection to hit stores this fall and grab your pieces early.