Use one whenever you would in a normal carbureted application. If you have one already, absolutely keep it! Our system works great with it. If you are expecting high RPMs, Boost, Nitrous… for sure you are going to want one BUT for the average street machine, you are fine without it. It’s up to you and your HP needs.

The Go EFI Dual Quad kits are intended for use on inline configuration intake manifolds. The throttle bodies can be separated as much 12 inches center to center in the inline configuration. We can not guarantee the fitment of the dual quad systems on cross ram intakes.

That’s a trade-off! While you would get a blended reading , the X pipe is far back in the system and would not react quickly. We find that one collector works fine and gives instant readings and fast response to the ECU. My vote is for the single collector!

FiTech is a group of OE engineers bringing you performance parts at an affordable price, and all of our new car ECU features are packed into our performance division products so YES, you can expect all of the new car performance out of the FiTech EFI products.

You only need the Handheld controller to do the initial setup of your system. After that, the computer takes over and provides you with a great factory set tune. You may want to “DIAL” it in for your particular application since it is easy and actually pretty fun and rewarding, but you do not have to!

No, you don’t, others claim to be all inclusive but you have to mount a box on the firewall for it to work and a CDI for the timing control to work. Plus the ECU that’s on the throttle body. That’s three boxes for one system! GO EFI is one throttle body that has EVERYTHING you need in one neat package.

We like to answer that with another question. Why are the others so expensive? It’s a throttle body, 4 injectors, a few sensors and an ECU. Not much there when you really break it down. Our OE ties allow us to source components at a great rate and our engineering is spread over many projects so it is not all rolled into the price of one system. We have been designing OE systems privately for 16 years and believe that the only way the EFI will EVER replace a carburetor is if the cost gets more reasonable. We have been working to make that happen and this is the first step. Expect more in the future ! Go EFI!!

If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and turn the key off until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows that the system has saved.

Thanks Bryce..-6AN..got it…just didn’t have it yet and was ordering all the parts needed. Another Question for ya..I have ordered the TPS splice to run the US Shift for the trans..however no info on which wire is the signal..I would like to do the wiring and soldering before turning it on for the first time. Also I assume its a 5volt ref for the TPS.?
BLUE
GREY
BLACK
Thanks again
Kevin B

If you need to tap into the TPS for your trans control you will need to get a TPS Breakout Harness. Check with our preferred dealers for a harness part number #109065. The signal wire is pin 3 or C on the harness.

I’m running an inline 6 (2F) in my FJ40 and upgrading to fuel injection. Has the FiTech unit been designed to protect itself from the heat being mounted directly over an exhaust header? My concern would be that the heat might affect the electronics. Thanks!

I have a 496″ Chevy street motor at approximately 600-650 HP. I HAVE ORDERED THE COMMAND CENTER BUT Summit now tells me next month. I am now going to have to cancel the command center and purchase the inline external pump to make ” Cruzin The Coast that is a week long street party. . The complete injection is mounted and we only need the fuel pump and return line sizing to meet the time frame. Can you tell me what size entering and returning that is required or this capacity. ( it is the Mean Street package)

The FiTech fuel pump will support engines to around 620 hp. If you are sourcing a fuel pump it needs to flow at least 280 LPH to work for your engine. You can plumb the system using AN-6 lines or 3/8″ ID.

I have a GM performance crate motor, part # 19332532 it has 425 H.P. With a single plane manifold. I am looking at a tank from Ricks hotrod parts that has a internal fuel pump that flows 255 lph, will this be enough fuel?

Bryce, I’m having a hard time picking a distributor. I am thinking the MSD # 85551 and locking out the advance. And using ther ignition box. Will the FITech control timing with this set up? And do I even need the ignition box ? It says that distributor need an ignition box.

I have a stroked 440 to 512 , mild cam 510 lift , It’s taking 6 to 7 trys to start the engine . I turn on the key wait to hear the injectors squirt , then crank . seems not enough fuel at start . I have the 600 hp unit and your frame mount pump . while driving it runs great .

Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle

Hi! I have some questions about fitech 1200hp. I have a 528cui hemi With a root blower and it makes about 900+ hp on E-85 With my carbs. Is there any fitech system that can handle this performance on E-85? For example Can i buy 2 fitech 800hp meanstreet or 2 1200hp and run them dual? Or can 1200 hp dual kit handel so much on e-85?

We offer dedicated dual quad systems and our largest system will support 1200hp (30064) on gasoline. If you are running E85 the horsepower capacity of the system drops about 30%. It is not possible to run 2 EFI systems on one engine.

The handheld gets power from the throttle body. It will even get power when the key is off on the vehicle. Now to get the handheld to connect with the ECU you need to have the key on. You can check if the handheld is connected by going into the DASHBOARD. If the value column have values in it (example RPM-0, MAP-98.8, Coolant Temp-75) the system is connected. If you don’t show values with the key on check for power to the white wire as well as check the plugs to the handheld.

FiTech EFI systems do not have two step controls. However we are working on a learn shut off when a wire is grounded/powered to allow use of a dual step. This is currently in the Mean Street EFI system (30008) and will be coming to other systems.

I have a Pontiac 455 with a Comp 51-224-5 cam. The intake manifold is an Edelbrock spread bore performer. I have a 700R4 transmission. The dyno rated the engine at 440 HP and 502 ft torque. Will the Go EFI 4 work for my setup? I plan to use the Go EFI fuel command center.

The oxygen sensor needs to receive a clean exhaust sample so ideally is would be placed 4-6″ behind the collector. You will also need at least 18″ of exhaust pipe behind the sensor to protect it from reading a false reading.

Dual oxygen sensors are not necessary because the fuel is injected in a plenum of an intake manifold. From there we can not direct the fuel to cylinders that may need more or less fuel. Good news is most manifolds on the market these days have great fuel distribution so the oxygen sensor can be placed on either header without issue.

All of our EFI systems will run on E85. You will need to increase the CID of the engine by 30% on the handheld tuner for proper fueling. This also decreases horsepower capacity by 30% as there is more fuel needed to support the same horsepower with gasoline.

If I run E85 I know that the system that’s rated for 1200 the go EFI 8 will only support 840hp because of the 30 percent compensation . So my question is does that mean the command center is also decreased with the E85 so now it will only be rated for 560hp if I ran e85?

We are in California so modification to a post 1975 vehicle is illegal. The FiTech EFI systems are carburetor replacement EFI system so if you setup your engine to work with a carb but put the FiTech system on instead it should work.

The Power Adder versions of the FiTech EFI system will handle up to 25 LBS of boost and can be used for any application. Please take caution that leaded gasoline will prematurely kill the oxygen sensor. You also need 18+ inches of exhaust past the oxygen sensor for proper readings.

Hello
I have 454 BBC Bower with Fitech injection power adder. I have entered the correct data in the control unit engine cui etc. is now following. The idle target is 14.50 the Unit .the injection runs at 10.5? and does not regulate?

1. Check your fuel pressure to the system. It should be 58 psi.
2. Check for vacuum on the DASHBOARD of the handheld. This will vary but will be close to what it was when the engine had a carb on it.
3. Check for fault codes on the MAIN MENU of the Handheld under FAULT CODE.

Question; Why Is a fuel return line only required with the frame mount inline pump, and not the Fuel Command Center? According to the instructions both systems are wired the same way. A better explanation on the “why” a return is needed and not needed for each set up would be appreciated. Do you have, or Is there plans for a future return less system with out the need for the Command Center?
Thanks For the Tech. info.

There is a regulator in the throttle body that controls pressure. The PWM is a feature to slow the pump down but the EFI has no ability to read pressure so if you drop the value too much you will cause the system to lose pressure.

All of our systems except the dual quads will work with 4 cylinder engines. They will also work with distributorless ignitions as long as you can get a tach signal to the EFI. It will not control timing however.

Hello
I am presently trying to start my car with your system on it for the first time. It tries to start but does not. The screen turns white when the key is turned to start. I have the white wire connected to the i terminal on the solenoid (Ford). Is this ok or does it need to go to the key?
Thanks
Norm

Be sure the white wire sees 12 volts at key on as well as during cranking. The white screen is most likely from low cranking voltage which would relate to the red battery wire. This wire needs to go directly to the positive post of the battery.

Hi just fitting my Meanstreet throttle body while waiting for my fuel command centre, I had my Auto sparky around yesterday, he had a query or two, I run a stand alone MSD 8504 Mopar distributor It has a Hei cap and leads which confused us slightly , He reckons the tach blue wire should go to the green tach wire from the dizzy, I think its as per instructions, Also the 02 sensor position placement for drag racing , should it be placed on the headers not after the exhaust flange join, I run dump caps off my exhaust so Im wondering about best 02 sensor position for open and closed headers. Thanx Tony

The best location for the oxygen sensor is in the collector of your header 4 inches behind where your primary tube merge into one. There also needs to be 18 to 24 inches of exhaust behind the sensor to prevent false readings from scavenging. If you are using leaded racing fuel you will kill the oxygen sensor. Non leaded fuels are to be used with this system.

Once started and up to temp the system will learn what it sees. Your job to dial it in is to just drive it. Remember is only learns how you drive the vehicle so for the most complete learning requires varying your driving habits.

We dont recommend an operating temp for the system. It will start learning when the engine gets to 120 degrees. We do have the system defaulted at 174 for a fan turn on so I would consider that is the “operating temp.”

i have fitted your go efi4,however i cannot plug in the oxygen sensor because it will not reach the plug from the throttle body .have you a solution to this problem? the o2 sensor is as close as i can put it after the collector .

I have an AMC 401 with 6-71 roots blower running 5 lbs of boost with two 600CFM Edelbrock carbs. My AFR stays between 12 an 14 at all times. What System would be good to use in place of the carbs. I run AN HEI dist. no ignition boxes and the car runs and idles great on 91 gas from the pump. I hope maybe with EFI I could run a little more boost without knock problems.

Our throttle body injection systems inject fuel into a common plenum so there is no need for dual oxygen sensors. The system cant adjust bank to bank fueling so we rely on the intake to distribute the fuel correctly.

I’ve got a 427 in my 69 Camaro, I’ve prob running a guess of 450-500 HP. Im installing a blow through supercharger around 6-8 lbs of boost so I’m guessing I’ll be between 600-700 horsepower for the time being. Am I going to have to run the 1200 HP kit or which one do you suggest. Please let me know and thank you for your time.

what else do I need when installing in a 1994 GM truck with a 355 V-8 and 4l60e tranny. Can I use the stock distributor? what about the gauges which run off the factory ecu. Tranny control? I know I need the fuel pump to raise the fuel pressure.
Great system

Our systems will work with any 4 bbl intake and many distributors. The factory GM distributor you are talking about will NOT work and the system does NOT control the trans. Our system is a carb replacement EFI system so it will not interface with OEM fuel injection systems.

I have a 1956 Chevy BelAir with a mild built 350 cid engine. I currently have a Holley TBI system on it and a gas tank with a pump that can outputs at 225 l/ph. This system requires a laptop to build maps and I have built more than I can count and it still is not right. So I am looking at your FiTech 30003 400 hp system. I want a system that can self tune to my cruiser driving needs that will be reliable and provide good gas milage.

I currently have a 91 mustang 5.0 coupe that is obviously fuel injected now. Will this kit work for me? And what could I or would I remove from my system now to be up and running with the Fitech system?

Our systems are carb replacements. You would need a carb intake and revert any efi components to ones that will work with a carb. In the state of California we are not allowed to touch post 1975 vehicles so sorry for the lack of information.

I have a 1964 chevy 409 single 4 barrel somewhere around 400-450 hp. If I install this kit can I use the C5 Corvette filter/regulator with preset of 58psi and a built in return line instead of running a return line all the way to the unit?

I have a 1995 chevy truck with stock EFI . . . I want to upgrade to your EFI . . . .Can I use stock fuel pump in the tank? However, If yes, I would upgrade the stock pump with a better in-tank pump. What flow rate and psi is recommended? Also, with this configuration of in-tank fuel pump, would I need to use the stock return line back to the tank?

If your pump can run at 58 psi you can use that pump. If you are looking at our 600hp Go EFI 4 a fuel pump that flows 255 lph or more is needed. You will need to use both a feed and return line that is 3/8 ID or larger.

I have Go Street EFI 4 and the FCC center. If I try to start my car after the FCC primes once it won’t start, however if I prime it three times it’ll start right up. What do I adjust so it’ll start after priming just once?

i have 30002 system when i installed it it did everything FiTech said it would i still have some fine tuning to do but very impressed, my only real issue is the return spring, it gave me a really hard pedal my vehicle Has A T5 in it so when want to apply a little gas it doesn’t always work out and the vehicle can be jerky. so what can be done to lighten up the gas pedal.
thanks for your time Sam.

The more vacuum an engine produces the easier it is for the system to tune to it. With that said if you make more than 8 inches of vacuum it will be easy. Less than 8 inches of vacuum may require more tuning. We have tuned engines with as little as 4 inches of vacuum.

I have this 240 block built as a 300 (Ford F100) with the offenhauser 4 bbl intake. Installing Go Efi 4 as we speak. With Fitech FCC. Also using 1986 4.9L exhaust manifolds on this old (1972) motor. Acts as headers but super cheap and Ox2 bung already in the manifolds.

I am installing you dual quad setup on my car. Do I need to run a fuel line and return line on both units. I see you show both lines on the rear unit and no return line on the front one on a Mopar. I am running an in tank fuel pump

I’m looking to install a system on a 2011 5.3 ls currently running a Victor, Jr intake with a 750 dp carb and an MSD 6LS controller. It has a Zex nitrous plate system and will be running a150/200 shot. I have a Aeromotive Stealth in tank pump with a regulator that can be configured for low pressure for a carburetor or by changing the spring can supply enough for fuel injection and it has a return system. I’m thinking probably in the 650/700 hp range. Will this system “replace” the MSD controller or will it just tie into it ? This engine in in a mid-engine conversion so I’m also concerned about the length of the wiring leads, especially to the handheld unit.

The Power adder systems will work with and without a CDI box to control timing or not. You have every option open basically. The handheld does not need to be a permanent installation and all the user harness wires can be lengthened if needed. The Handheld cable is 6 ft long BTW.

The break in will be the same. If you are at all worried about breaking in the engine with EFI i recommend that you do the break in with a carb. This is a crucial process so being comfortable with your setup is key. If you do break in the engine with the EFI be sure there is more than 18 inches of exhaust past the oxygen sensor to ensure it reads correctly.

I invited have the Means Street 800 when I try to start it just turns over but won’t fire. It’s reading rpm and it’s receiving 10 volts. Is that enough? Also if the fuel pump doesn’t have enough psi would it fire at all?

If you dont have enough fuel pressure it may or may not start. You will need to make a throttle adjustment which is most likely your issue. Basically the engine is not getting enough air to start. Follow the IAC steps adjustments in the link below. Also be sure you are receiving voltage during cranking to the white wire.

, How accurate does the CID input need to be? I’m not certain if the motor I have has been bored and/or if it has a stroker(doubtful) but none the less, it appears to be built as a sleeper. Can I start at 351 and increase until the unit starts wigging out?

What are the minimum sizes for both Sending Unit Pickup and Return line receptacles for the 30003? I am putting this on a 1974 Blazer with a 4 receptacle sending unit. Pickup is 3/8s (which your directions says is ok…however, I don’t recommend clamping the .08 hose to this…needs reducer) and I have two options for the return. The Center tube seems to be 5/16ths but looks to be a vapor return with a plastic filter thing (this is what your directions state is needed). The other option is what seems to be a 1/4 inch tube which is just open.

have the 600HP system,starts and idles good and smooth,after a short run it will idle rough and start bogging on acceleration,I have followed all the steps,checked timing,checked fuel PSI, went through the set up sheet at least 5 times, the system is on a 350 chev. in a 1932 PU with posi and I cannot spin the wheels from a dead stop, but the carburetor allowed me to spin the wheels I know this system should work but I cannot seem to get to go, please help me get this going., thanks Bill

I currently use a battery cut-off switch for my trunk mounted battery.
I read in the instructions for my 2X4 1200 that the ECU needs 12V all the time or
The learned maps will be lost. I assume this means I need to keep my battery cut “in”
At all times or the system will need to re-learn every time I start the car?

This information is NOT correct. You can use a battery cut off BUT you need to allow the system to save first which is about 30 second after key off. As long as you wait this 30 seconds you can cut power to the EFI and nothing will be lost.

I own a Fitech 30012 1200 Poweadder, and I am using it for Blow through Procharger on a 383 SBC,(haven’t driven it much at all yet.) When I bought it in 2015, the fuel regulator was just vented to atmosphere (no vacuum hose), so I called and talked with y’all , and at the time, I was told to boost reference the regulator off the Bonnet/Hat. Now I see there has apparently been an update, and they now come with a vacuum line ran from the regulator to a full manifold vacuum port on the throttle body. I have people telling me I need to move it too full mainfold vacuum for it to work properly. Should I change mine to where it references from a full manifold vacuum source? Thanks!

We have made the change to hook all regulators to manifold vacuum. I would recommend that you update to this but by no means will your system not work properly the other way. We just found that pulling fuel pressure down in a low load situation helps the learning feature in the EFI.

We don’t provide the ignition system but if you get a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor you can utilize the timing control feature in the EFI system. This will allow you to pull timing out when you are boosting the engine.

I’m planning to buy the dual 1200hp 671 blower fitech system. Im going to run a a1000 fuel pump from aeromotive. Do I connect this fuel pump to the efi system and let it control it or run a fuel pump relay for it.

Hello Bryce, Help needed please. I’m having a severe problem with off idle stumble or hesitation and a severe hesitation after returning from deceleration. First let me give you a run down on my vehicle specifics. The kit is 30002 and is installed in a truck with a bone stock 1999 L31 5.7L vortec engine. It has a aftermarket intake and long tube headers and full dual exhaust. Factory advertised HP is 250. Running a MSD 8361 2 wire dizzy with blaster 2 coil. Kit is controlling timing. Aeromotive in tank pump #11569. Fuel pressure is right at 50PSI with vacuum on the regulator, and with no vacuum psi is dead on 58 at idle . Transmission is 700r4 and rear axle ratio is 4:10. I’ve tried changing settings in accel pump and dfco return as explained in basic setup instructions but nothing is helping with my problems. The settings for the above are accel pump and fast accel are at 25.0 at all temps as I seem to be having this issue at all temps. DFCO RETURN at 90. Base timing is set at 10 degrees BTDC with handheld showing spark advance at idle is 18.9 with 19″ of vacuum. Should these settings need to be changed that much from the stock calibration? I’m very disappointed so far and starting to wonder if there is a problem with this unit as it always makes a very loud whistle not hissing sound under heavy acceleration, and no there are no vacuum leaks unless they are coming in under acceleration. I need help with this as I don’t feel that my vehicle is no more reliable now than when I had carb installed.

Please verify your ignition timing! Timing control is not self tuning and needs to be curved via the handheld to suet your engine. There is a sync procedure in the instructions this needs to be done as well. Bring the engine to 2k rpm, refer to the Dashboard for Spark Advance. Whatever Spark Advance says at 2k rpm make the engine do the same by using a timing light and turning the distributor manually.

If you have a sugeing idle, and it is rich you first need to disconnect all vacuum sources and make sure there are no vacuum leaks, then follow the attached guide for setting your IAC steps, once that is done please let us know if the issue persists and we will go further.

Can this pump output 58PSI at 255 LPH of flow? if it cannot then no it will not be able to supply the EFI syste directly, and would need to be regulated to 7PSI to feed the command center, or be replaced with a larger pump and high pressure EFI rated fuel lines such as from our 40005 inline fuel pump kit.

Hello, I have a Mallory Comp 9000 UniLite Breakerless Ignition P/N 9148201distributor with the Mallory coil. Is this an considered an HEI or a Ready to Run Distributor? Which wiring diagram should I use?

This is not an HEI ignition. It would be considered a ready to run setup. I think this ignition uses a ballast resistor. If so it will NOT work with the EFI. The system needs a 12 volt operation ignition system.

Hello , I run stock exhaust manifolds and I’m wondering how far back the o2 sensor should be ? I’ve got a 90 degree bend off the manifold would I be able to mount the o2 sensor approx 3 inches back from the 90 degree bend ?

Where can I find some instructions on connecting/wiring for a vehicle that has an AC system? I know that there is a wire for it (black wire) and that it should go to ground when the AC is on, but are there any suggestions how to wire this up?

I am trying to get your Go Street 400hp 30003 working on my 66 chevy 250 inline 6. I can’t set the cylinder count to anything except 8 cylinder. this is causing the rpm to read lower than it is. The other issue is on startup, the rpm runs away (3000+ rpm) and the IAC steps stay at 200+ regardless of throttle position.

Hi there,
I have a 1987 Grand Wagoneer, bone stock AMC 360, with the Motorcraft 2150 two barrel carb. I am ready to put my money down for the $795 system and the command center. Would I have to replace my intake manifold? Also, I’m points style ignition, would I have to upgrade to HEI setup?
Thanks!

I have a 1200hp system. I can set my afr target to as rich as 10.5:1 and the system will only hit 11.8 to 12.0. When data logging the target afr says 11.9? I lIke to run my car fairly rich. What do I need to do to get the afr I want? Also how do I get into the fuel tables so I can turn the loop off and make my own tune?

You can do additional tuning if you install the provided software that is on the handheld. If you could please send up the datalog so we can give you better information on why your target AFR is not being matched. My email is bryce@fitechefi.com

I have a 78 f250 with dual tanks I have your 400 hp system and a 340lph fuel pump. The pump is mounted on the frame before me fuel tank selector. My problem is how do I run a return line to both tanks. I’d rather not spend more money on the sump kit you offer already have too much invested now

I’m considering getting the mean street 800 system, can I run this system with a holley blue fuel pump, 110gph, and regulator without using the fuel command center? Also can I run leaded race fuel with this system? Thanks

I have a 84 monte carlo ss with a stock 305. I plan on running your 400hp fitech on it cause the carb is no longer working. My original plan was to do a ls swap in the near future but money is the problem. If i place the fitech on the 305 for now can i later put it on my ls 5.3? Will it self tune again? And another thing is if i decide to run a tirbo on my ls can i change the injectors from the 400hp fitech to the 600hp injectors with out buying a whole new fitech system?

All of our systems can be re-setup to work with different motors but they can not be upgraded. If you are interested in boosting an engine in the future it would be smart to purchase a power adder system which will support boost. The Go Street 400hp will NOT allow for boost.

I would like to use the 30003 system on my flathead Merc. That’s probably putting out 150hp or so. You’ve responded to others that it can be used on low hp applications. Please confirm that this would be a reasonable application. Isn’t com flow a factor to be concerned with. I’m looking for improved drive ability over my 390cfm Holley carb. Thanks!!

I want to run E85 thru the 1200hp 2×4 system on 350 chevy and weiand 6-71. This setup should make 600Hp. If taking away 30% for E85 from the fuel command center, it should not be sufficient. what fuel pump would FITECH reccomend?

Hooking the FiTech’s white wire to the BAT terminal on a HEI may not work. Voltage during cranking needs to be checked in this location before using it. If the HEI gets at least 10 volts during cranking to the BAT terminal it will be okay to use.

I’m wanting to install your kit with the fuel pump system but my 1969 c10 has the tank relocated to the rear of the frame and it hangs down pretty low so I would not be able to mount the fuel pump as low as the tank what kind of problems will that cause thanks

I’ve researched your systems on other check c10s and many have successful installs and id like to install one on a 84 c10 with dual tanks and a 408cid hyd roller around 475 hp with A/C – Id like to install 87 TBI baffled tanks with and aftermarket in tank pumps (one in each tank) (rated to fit your application) the one thing i cant seem to find is how to return the fuel to the dual tank setup as the TBI selector valve is rated for 65psi max. Can you help design a fuel system for me for this application that could utilize the dual tank setup without the fuel command center or a frame mounted pump and allowing the return fuel to get back to the selected tank ?

I am not to sure if my IAC is right it keeps bounceing from 0 to 1, 0 to 2 , 0 to4 back to 0 to 2 then back to 0 to 4 then back to 0 to 1 then 0 to 3 and so on. Also idle revs up and then slows down to almost stall and keeps repeating.

I have a 1987 chevy pickup that has the factory fuel injection. Im in the process of doing a engine swap and would like to know if the 340 L/PH In-Tank Fuel Pump -Part No: #40102 would be a direct replacement for the in tank fuel pump that it currently has or if i would need the fuel command center?

I am adjusting the IAC and the primary screw is all the way in and I am at IAC steps = 15. I cannot get it any lower. If I back it out they climb normally. It idles okay but IAC steps are too high according the to set-up. Is there a way to resolve this? Can I make a slight adjustment on the secondary side? Idle is a bit rich. AFR is set at 14.0

Thanks Bryce. Idle vacuum is about 12 inches, Cam is #3. I was thinking AFR around 14.5 +/- but would like your input. Will the leaner AFR effect OAC steps also? Also, will leaner idle AFR effect other performance settings?

I happened to pop off the vacumm cap off the back driver side large vacumm port, which I beleive is for a power brake booster if you use it. When it popped off there was some gas in the cap. I cleaned it off dry and put it back on. Started it up again and took off after and some more small gas. Is this normal? There is no leaking when running

The vacuum port is just a normal vacuum port so it should not be any different than if you get vacuum from the manifold. Check engine vacuum on the handheld. Maybe your engine combo is not good for a lot of vacuum.

Hi there, I just purchased the 1200hp power adder unit and am going to be running a turbo. My downpipe comes out the front fender and is only about 24 inches long. Do you have any tips on how to mount the O2 sensor so it doesn’t get burned up being too close to the turbo outlet or get a bad reading from fresh air at the end of the pipe?

yes I was having a noise code so I replaced all my ignition even change my distributor I got all new now and it’s still want to load up and now I am getting noise code plus 0000 do you have any advice for me thank you

Good day. I plan on putting your system on a couple of SBF 302 engines. One has the factory 85 EGR dual plane manifold, and the other has an aftermarket single plane manifold. Both engines are under 400hp and street driven. My questions are … What intake does your system like better, single or dual plane? When using an in tank pump, what LPH does your system need? Thanks.

I currently have a holly 770 on gmpp zz383 with 700r4 trans. I have the correct holly bracket to correct geometry for tv cable. Will that same bracket work on fitech to correct geometry for tv cable? I also have the holly mounting bracket to hold throttle cable and tv cable. It uses the hold down bolt for carb to intake. Will that also work?

Hello I have a 1991 mustang and I’m getting ready to buy a system, but I didn’t find any information about the TPS sensor. I converted my car over to a 4R70w later model transmission and it requires the use of a TPS sensor which is mounted on the side of a Holley 4 barrel. Does the system incorporate a sensor?