The Brecon Beacons by bike – how to tackle the Tour of Britain (the easy way)

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Starting today, the Tour of Britain will weave through England and Wales, covering a gruelling 707 miles across 11 counties – that’s just 167 miles shy of the distance between Land’s End and John o’ Groats. But while the professionals will race around the country with the help of lightweight carbon fibre bikes, massage therapists and dieticians, sluggish amateurs can follow in their tyre-prints, fuelled by local food and a night’s rest in one of the region’s best hotels.

Travel writer Simon Parker has cycled solo across Europe, North America and the length of Scandinavia – he rode the six main stages of this year’s tour for Telegraph Travel.

Stage one: South Wales

The route

The pros will set off on this 108-mile stage from Pembrey Country Park in Carmarthenshire, however amateur riders can get the train to the nearby town of Pembrey & Burry Port and start from there. Svelte elite cyclists are expected to complete this stage in less than four hours, but if, like me, you’re carrying plenty of excess summer barbecue weight, 10-12 hours is a lot more like it.

The highlights

Head north out of Burry Port on the A484 towards Kidwelly and swing into the village for a quick look at its Norman-era Castle – a grand and intact fortress overlooking the River Gwendraeth. Alternatively, roar on through, past undulating valleys specked with livestock, and after 12 miles you’ll wind into the town of Carmarthen. It’s here where you’ll have to decide on how much of a purist you want to be. Do you follow every single mile of the exact Tour of Britain route that often flirts with the busy A40, or do you make a beeline for the delightfully quiet B4300, running adjacent?

Much of this route has recently been relayed – providing a smooth, dreamy surface for cycling, flanked by tunnels of stooping oak trees that meet high above the centre of the shaded road. Cycling beside the meandering River Towy, through the towns of Llandeilo and Llandovery you’ll have ample opportunities to refuel on local minted lamb pasties, served with lashings of rich gravy, before winding deeper into the Brecon Beacons National Park and onto the Taff Trail – part of the National Cycle Network running between Brecon and Cardiff. This is certainly the highlight of the ride, before tackling the busy A4042 and the finale in central Newport, beside the River Usk.

The meandering River TowyCredit:
getty

Rest and refuel

There’s not too much to choose from in Burry Port, but Whitfords (01554 832211; whitfords.wales) has five modern rooms above its cafe where you can get a good breakfast of Welsh rarebit and pancakes with fresh fruit. Each room has a small kitchenette for self-catering and you’re located just a minute from the train station. Doubles from £55.

Kidwelly CastleCredit:
GETTY

The ride officially ends in central Newport, but one of the best hotels in the region can be found in the northern suburb of Caerleon. The Priory (01633 421241; thepriorycaerleon.com) has 27 modern rooms and good food, ordered from a butcher-fishmonger style counter. The Welsh ribeye steaks, racks of lamb and locally caught monkfish are exceptional. Doubles from £85.

West Usk Lighthouse near NewportCredit:
GETTY

Short cuts?

If you want to shave off about 11 miles then you could jump on the train to Carmarthen - I wish I’d done this as the first hour or so of the route isn’t particularly picturesque and I could have done with the energy later on. At the end of the ride, once you’ve cycled a challenging, topsy turvy 80 miles or so through the Brecon Beacons National Park you could jump on the train at Abergavenny and be in downtown Newport within 30 minutes.

Getting there & away

The nearest station to the start line is Pembrey & Burry Port, and will require just one change at Cardiff Central.

An off-peak single fare from London Paddington costs £49 and takes approximately 3 hours and 45 minutes. The finish line in Newport is just a mile or so from the station and there’s a direct train to London costing £41.90 and takes one hour 55 minutes.