I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?

I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?

The cone washers should all be going 1 direction, not inverting every other one. For your front diff, to make the car a little easier to drive, I'd suggest running Losi brown diff grease, it's super thick, which allows you to run the diff a little looser to put less strain on the components.

I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?

I have had the same problem on a certain track here, (where there is a lot of diff action).... In my opinion it is the thrust bearing lube overheating. This is why after a few minutes it will feel good again. I never had much luck with the brown grease, but the Associated black grease and the ofna high-temp diff grease were better. Also, don't over tighten the diff initially either.

Here's something I did to make my diffs stay smooth longer. Since the Losi thrust is kind of open in the middle, mine seems to get gritty real fast. When I rebuild, the diff rings aren't the problem, it is always the thrust bearing. My TC3 diffs stayed good for 2 to 3 years because they were more closed in. I simply took a piece of Lexan & cut it to fit around the diff housing & then put a small #2 screw into the gray plastic to hold it in. Make sure you don't turn the screw in too far. R.W.

Alright guys, first off, LOVE this car. Only one serious problem thus far.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I was having problems with getting bindage inbetween my servo and motor. So after taking out my current servo, and comparing, I decided it was just too big. Put in a different one and now have plently of space between the motor and servo horn. But the biggest problem didnt solve itself as I wished it would

If I go into a turn, and my wheels glance the pipe (we arent all perfect ) Its like my servo gets stuck into the direction I was turning and wont undo itself until Ive told the marshall that my wheels need to be "popped" back into place. By this time, Im 2-3 laps down, and have wasted a run. At first I thought it was just my car, maybe my servo selection. But the other guy at my track who runs a JRX-S (very fast guy BTW) had this happen last weekend. And I know he runs better servos than I. So my question would be if anyone has had this problem, if so (even if not) is there anyway I can fix it? Its killin me not being given a shot at the win because I tap a pipe that wouldnt have made a big deal anyway....

I had this same problem a few times bafore, and traced it to be the small bit of flashing on the inside of the steering knuckle where it would contact the castor bloack. If you file it a little smoother, then it should not stick anymore.

One other thing to check is that I believe when the car first came out, either the manual was wrong or the parts were numbered wrong, but it seems to me that some brands of servos take a different servo horn than what the manual says. Can anybody else remember what the deal was?

Brant

Brant
I had asimular prob with my steering locking out when I first built my car, and had built it with the left front drive shaft in the wrong slot in the diff half. Only a observation but take a peek RCOLDMAN
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN

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