Saigon Pho

1384 Lyell Ave., Rochester; 235-3611

Pho Combo; $9 large / $7 small

The small strip-mall storefront on Lyell simmers up some fine, fine pho. Start your journey here to realize just how floral an eight-hour stock can be. Traditional spice aromas such as star anise, cinnamon and clove rise with the steam from the massive bowl, which is chock full of white onions, diced scallions, stick rice noodles and three types of meat (hence the “combo” in the name). Ultra-thin, lean top round, hearty Angus brisket and springy meatballs hide throughout the stock. The glistening sheen on top adds silky mouthfeel to each spoonful. As you pluck condiments from a tray brimming with fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts, jalapenos and lime wedges, you’ll be geared up for total satisfaction.

Blue Taro(Photo: Vince Press)

Blue Taro

Eight years after closing Le Lemon Grass, Hieu Luong and his wife have re-opened Blue Taro in the same space on upper Monroe Avenue. A sleek interior (soon with a grab-and-go takeout service) suggests refined cuisine is in store. The Pho Bo-Beef Hanoi Style was good, but so was the chicken pho ladled into a fancy bowl. It’s a five-hour broth that cooks down using whole chickens as well as pork bones, mildly spiked with ginger, coriander, cinnamon and other spices. Pulled chicken breast and leg meat from the cooking process end up in the delicate-tasting final product. A squeeze of fresh lime totally brightens the soup. I recommend sampling a host of appetizers to start—especially the dumplings.

Flavors of Asia(Photo: Vince Press)

Flavors of Asia

Under new ownership for the past two years, this Swillburg neighborhood fusion joint has a lot to offer beyond five solid phos, which include chicken, mixed veggies, tofu and a combo. The traditional beef flank selection cooks all day, then rests overnight until ready for service the next morning. Flank steak is used here along with fresh bones, sugar, onion, ginger, cinnamon, Chinese five-spice and black pepper. It’s served with an obscene amount of Thai basil and bean sprouts as well as several sauces (plus an additional chili oil on demand). For sure start with dim sum and beef on a stick as you sip the bottomless tea.

The Wok(Photo: Vince Press)

The Wok

Formerly Wok With You at RIT’s Park Point, The Wok now delights
U of R students just across the river from campus. As I sat with owner Wayne Luong on a sub-zero day and chatted about what goes into it, the southern Vietnamese-style soup hit the spot. “The broth is most important,” he said while confirming that the southern Vietnam variety is indeed more flavorful. In addition to the standard scallion, cilantro, onion, ginger and long rice noodle, I discovered a few unique ingredients here, such as the crispy dried onion, white pepper and a leafy herb called Ngo Gai, a variety of culantro. The shrimp stock-based broth was crazy clear, clean and light tasting, with abundant shrimp and scallops. Ask for pickled Thai chilies on the side.

SEA Restaurant(Photo: Vince Press)

SEA Restaurant

The straight-to-the point fusion menu features eight variations of pho, including seafood, chicken and several beef options. For those all in, the Pho Dac Biet is a carnivore’s delight with rough flank, brisket, rare steak, meatballs and tripe—each contributing unique texture and characteristics. You can choose from traditional white rice noodles or try the doughier yellow egg noodles to mix it up a bit (they’re easier to eat with chopsticks). The stock is quite clean yet complex, with liberal garnishes of cilantro and scallions. Condiments are the standard bean sprout, lime, basil, hoisin sauce and chili paste, plus the kicked-up addition of fresh Thai chilies. Service is quick in this frequently packed Monroe Avenue mainstay.

History of the dish

There may be no greater remedy for winter’s deep chill than a steaming, fragrant bowl of pho (pronounced fuh). It warms you from within, satisfies most any hunger and even seems to lift spirits.

The Vietnamese noodle bone-broth soup dates back to the early 19th century, with accounts pinning it to the Hanoi region in the north. The national dish has French and Chinese influences, from the evolution of its long, slippery rice noodles to its signature lean beef—an import from French settlers during their rule. (Pho actually refers to the noodle but has become synonymous with the dish itself.)

Traditionally peddled by street vendors, the soup was simmered with care using only a handful of aromatic spices and ingredients such as cinnamon, star anise, clove, cardamom and onion. As refugees migrated to Saigon and the south during the Vietnam War, so did the beloved pho recipe.

Once upon a time, water buffalo meat was used, but when beef became more abundant it quickly became the protein of choice. Rare cuts were sliced so thin that they cooked immediately upon hitting the scalding broth.

Experimentation tossed pork, chicken, seafood, vegetables into the pot, and beef variations like gelatinous tiny meatballs, stringy brisket or chewy tendon. Southern varieties with fuller, sweeter flavor arose along with side garnishes: lime wedges, bean sprouts, cilantro or culantro (stronger than cilantro), chilies, hoisin sauce and hot oil. The purported magical, healing properties of pho soon spread to western countries and beyond with the Vietnamese who fled the country in the 1970s and ’80s.

When enjoying a bowl, note the characteristic sheen and silkiness of the delicate surface layer, a product of simmering bones for many hours. Crystal-clear broth can surprise the taste buds with deep flavor, belying its unassuming appearance.

You’ll encounter numerous subtleties and variations. The Hanoi-style pho is straightforward, clean and simple with slightly wider noodles. The sweeter Saigon-style is served with many more fresh side condiments and thinner noodles. Just pick your protein and slurp away!