Is it a possibility that the ejector block could make a bolt drag if one side was slightly higher than the rails? If so, what would a fix be? Work it down or have it replaced?

Thanks

farranger

October 04, 2001, 23:06

Silly question probably, but I'm not quite sure what function the ejector block does. any help appreciated. thanks.

idsubgun

October 04, 2001, 23:15

The ejector block is just that, it holds the ejector to kick the brass out.
Originally it was cut out, along with the receiver, to hold the safety sear, the thing that made it go full auto.
It also holds your BHO and mag release.

Sumo,
Yes, if the right side stuck up too far, it could cause a drag on the carrier. There would probably some witness marks, if this was the case. If it is hitting the carrier, the simple fix would be milling it flush with the bottom of the rails.

[ October 05, 2001: Message edited by: idsubgun ]

radom11

October 05, 2001, 00:51

Ejector block change out question?

On one L1A1 Clone (Metric) I had to replace the ejector block due to a snapped of ejector and this was a solid part.

I first removed the LS and then punched out the pins and then the block, a bit of a pain in re installing the LS.

This evening another of the locals showed me his L1A1 (CIA Built) that has a bent /chipped fixed ejector, can I just drive out the pins and tap out the block and tap in the new one and NOT remove the LS?

:D radom11
"Home of the Best M44's on the Planet"

Harlan at FAC

October 05, 2001, 08:48

Removal of the locking shoulder is not necessary in changing out an ejector block.

Remember that factory installation of the ejector block drills the holes for the pins after the block is fixtured and positioned in the receiver. Do not expect that the pre-existing holes in an ejector block will match up with the holes in the receiver.

radom11

October 05, 2001, 17:33

Harlan at Federal Arms pened:

“Remember that factory installation of the ejector block drills the holes for the pins after the block is fixtured and positioned in the receiver. Do not expect that the pre-existing holes in an ejector block will match up with the holes in the receiver”

Harlan Thanks for the answer on the LS, it saves time…

Are you saying that the factory blocks have no holes in them and that each is fitted (drilled) individually?
Strange, I checked the FN Specifications for the ejector Block and the numbers are “ Quite Specific” as to location using 4 points of reference, the FN Receiver ejector block hole specifications match the same 4 points.

Just for the record any one that has a the CIA L1A clone please check that on the “metric” (possibly Hese Hassle contract) Receiver using a CIA installed ORIGENAL Ejector Block that had a weld bead put in the sear cut, this weld looks like it was put in place after the block was pined in place.

It looks like this weld was done by cross eyed beaver as you can see the bead pool cooled on to the wall of the receiver the fixed ejector was heated thus causing the failure (bad chip of hook) then FTE after only 200 rounds.

I replaced the bad one using a Tapco replacement inch ejector block (exact measurement match to original) no problem on pin fit, did not test fire yet!

At least now new pins are flush
Boy the CIA Crew sure are a bunch of cheapskates after examining the pins I noticed that they reused the original from the “kit” they just ground down the sections that “bulged” and pounded them into the holes thus short on 2 ends.

D. Lehrman

I do not think that Williams cost of ejector block is less then Tapco uesd cost