I had the bell blanks cut when the intake was water jet cut from 1/2" alum. 3" OD, radius machined to 1 3/4" ID. Done by my younger brother on an OLD manual lathe.

The head end of the runners are hammer formed to match the port shape and then pie cut to eliminate extra material. So the top of the runner is a bit flattened, but not as much as FTF suggested.( I can always revisit this if and when I build another.) External pie cut welds are ground off, internal welds will be ground later.

I have the benefit of owning a Boss 429 sheet metal intake built by Jon Kaase, so I'm using it as a guide.

Looks beautiful LF!I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.Thanks for the inspiration!

Now I need to figure out how to post pics from an iPhone...if that’s even possible.

sandboxer wrote:Looks beautiful LF!I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.Thanks for the inspiration!

Now I need to figure out how to post pics from an iPhone...if that’s even possible.

S

This is from my iPhone.Start with the attachment button in the first photo below.

Then it will open to the second photo, click add files, then the window will open, select photo library etc..., choose the photo and it will upload. Then select the place inline button.

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sandboxer wrote:Looks beautiful LF!I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.Thanks for the inspiration.

S

Thank you, sandboxer,should have added more details.

I used 1/8 5052 for the plenum. The runner wall thickness is also 1/8, but varies in the bend radius due to the forming process. I purchased them as U-Bends from Columbia River Mandrel Bending in Oregon. The ones I'm using are 2" OD, 11GA, 6061 in a 3" radius.

My runners are extremely short for 2 reasons. Using 1st gear in the trans, a 6.20 ratio in the 9" will allow the motor to hit max revs very quickly and hopefully stay there. There will be farm tractor style bodywork on it and I'm trying to keep the carb under the hood. If I was building one for a truck , I'd use longer runners.

Thanks!While not far off, as I love the track t’s, this is a project I drew on a napkin 10 years ago, built a wooden mock up frame for, and finally these past few months had the time to start. I’ve always loved the single seat race cars of the early century, so a long skinny hood and Boattail back is in the works. Ditto on the visit. Stop in some time.S

Got my block back from the hot tank, time to thread chase all the holes and deburr the sharp edges. Before and after pictures of porting the oil passages in the filter mount. Still need to hit it with a 120 grit roll for final smoothing.

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Yes, unfortunately this one has some really ugly shrapnel in there. Like they used a dull chainsaw.

LF: Make sure you check the rear main web shelf above the rear main housing which is normally not very visable b/c we always [view things in the block webbing areas] from the oil pan bottom up. We use to use a mirror and were always surprised at what we "thought" was a ready to go super clean block prior to final assy.

Yes, unfortunately this one has some really ugly shrapnel in there. Like they used a dull chainsaw.

LF: Make sure you check the rear main web shelf above the rear main housing which is normally not very visable b/c we always [view things in the block webbing areas] from the oil pan bottom up. We use to use a mirror and were always surprised at what we "thought" was a ready to go super clean block prior to final assy.

Main studs in place, my girdle template clearanced to miss the rods and oil pan. Will be making a new template on the CNC to reflect the changes I've made. Once I'm happy with it, I'll draw it in CAD and send it out for Waterjet.

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I really admire what you are doing to the BB6.I enjoy wandering around in the pits looking at all the inovative stuff at the mud bogs.Now I get to see how one of these engines goes together for racing.All the great ideas and input that comes forward on this forum is exellent.

54-4x4 wrote:I really admire what you are doing to the BB6.I enjoy wandering around in the pits looking at all the inovative stuff at the mud bogs.Now I get to see how one of these engines goes together for racing.All the great ideas and input that comes forward on this forum is exellent.

You could always drive to the Pull out by Stoney Plain in August, only 4 1/2 hours away! Hopefully we'll be there.

54-4x4 wrote:I really admire what you are doing to the BB6.I enjoy wandering around in the pits looking at all the inovative stuff at the mud bogs.Now I get to see how one of these engines goes together for racing.All the great ideas and input that comes forward on this forum is exellent.

You could always drive to the Pull out by Stoney Plain in August, only 4 1/2 hours away! Hopefully we'll be there.

I would like to do that.What is the name of the event ,location and date?

You could always drive to the Pull out by Stoney Plain in August, only 4 1/2 hours away! Hopefully we'll be there.[/quote]I would like to do that.What is the name of the event ,location and date?[/quote]

I would just like to ask a question on your main stud girdle. I always ran one on my 500+ inch BBC with a blower on alcohol, around 1200 HP. I am sure it is solid bottom end protection. Are you shooting for 400 +HP on this puller? What RPM will it be pulling at? Now my question is would after market billet main caps with ARP main bolts work for a 350-375 HP puller in the 7500 rpm range without the main girdle? Just would like to know.

old28racer wrote:I would just like to ask a question on your main stud girdle. I always ran one on my 500+ inch BBC with a blower on alcohol, around 1200 HP. I am sure it is solid bottom end protection. Are you shooting for 400 +HP on this puller? What RPM will it be pulling at? Now my question is would after market billet main caps with ARP main bolts work for a 350-375 HP puller in the 7500 rpm range without the main girdle? Just would like to know.

Fantastic questions.

Ideally I'd like 600+ HP at 8500RPM! Now, is this a realistic goal? We won't really know until we get there. For our first effort, I'd like to hit 350-400 at 6500-7000. Once we can keep it alive at that level, we'll push it more. ( X-Flow and a bigger cam.)

I'm doing some research on the aftermarket main caps but I'm not ready to present my ideas yet.

I'm thinking along the line of trying to reduce block twist, the girdle is the first step.

Thanks for the reply to the billet main caps and the main girdle. 600 HP @ 8500 rpm, that is a serious 300 motor modification & goal. Please post your results on the aftermarket main caps when you get done with the research.

Wow! That's a beautiful girdle. Will you please tell us the steps you went through to make it. I see a viable commercial product there for those "end-of-the-box" engine builders out here. I've seen a couple of main cap failures - one in an engine I've built (saveable) and one on an engine another person built (parted out). Also will you please tell us other mods you have to do to use it (face the main caps, oil pump, etc?). Thank you Lunatic.

Also, not to nit pic, but there are probably gains to be had by replacing your conventional collectors with merge collectors. It will help scavenging by keeping the velocity up.

I've been curious, is there not enough meat in the block for 4 bolt style or splayed main caps to be built? Or also building a bedplate style girdle that ties into the pan rail as well? I'm sure it's an expensive venture only needed at top tier, but I've never seen anyone do anything similar for the 300, but heard talk of main cap movement at those levels.

Because the engine has seven main bearings a 4-bolt cap is not the issue. There is not enough meat on the block to do 4-bolt anyway. It's stronger main caps that are needed. They could be made from billet steel, like 4340 and be virtually bulletproof.

A deep skirted block, like the FE/FT engines or the Modular V8 would help, but making an integral girdle with our block design presents problems.

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:Wow! That's a beautiful girdle. Will you please tell us the steps you went through to make it. I see a viable commercial product there for those "end-of-the-box" engine builders out here. I've seen a couple of main cap failures - one in an engine I've built (saveable) and one on an engine another person built (parted out). Also will you please tell us other mods you have to do to use it (face the main caps, oil pump, etc?). Thank you Lunatic.

Also, not to nit pic, but there are probably gains to be had by replacing your conventional collectors with merge collectors. It will help scavenging by keeping the velocity up.

Thanks! It all started with a TON of measurements.I'm lucky enough to use a CNC punch at work so i can test my numbers on 1/8 aluminum. Once I'm happy with that I draw it in CAD then send the DWG to the Water Jet. We're talking multiple testers here, as sometimes dimensions are moved .005 at a time. As discussed earlier, I added a 1.5" billet spacer under the oil pump in order to give room for the studs( Not stock dimension) and the girdle. So far only the bolt surface on the main caps has been machined even(spacers to lift it over the cap radius)

Nit pic away, I'm starting with these collectors for now. Will be switching to merge(absolutely agree) once the budget allows.

Lunatic Fringe wrote:This is our original chassis(We built in 1982) running a 400M w/Cleveland 4BBL heads(We built in 1990). Points champ several times. Could have assembled a similar motor for our new effort, but we like a challenge.aYLv0a.jpg

UPDATE

May have posted it before but....

It is with a heavy heart , that the current owner of our original tractor passed in December. I and many others attended his memorial last weekend. In discussions with his widow and their crew, it was announced there will be a farewell tour with his 2 tractors. I am honoured to have been asked to compete with our old unit for this season. We will be entering into discussions on purchasing it in the fall. Construction on the 6 will be slowed until I'm done the refurbishment on the V8. Also will need to rewire to my garage as the wiring isn't heavy enough to run my TIG properly. Also added to the to do list is we need a bigger trailer.

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Picked up our old tractor on Saturday and brought it home. Drove it off the trailer and around the yard just to get familiar with it again. 30 years since it was in my garage! Will need a bunch of TLC. Collectors are rusted through, wiring is a mess, and has a few stress cracks. First pull is July 27. Waiting for some parts on the 300, then off to the machine shop. How do you post videos here?

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No, it will stay with the 400 for the foreseeable future. The six is parked just out of the picture and will be continued to be worked on but at a slower pace. I also have another project that I need to finish before I can get back to the six.

Also found out that the converter and C4 in the 400 are still original from when I had them built in 98.

Thanks for the heads up! Will have a closer look at that tomorrow . I've got a set of 1.7's . Cam card says 1.7 too, but my lift calculations weren't quite that high. When I get the spring hight to order springs, I'll ask them why the discrepancy.

Ok, I was confused, that makes sense now. As far as springs go, I'm getting .1 longer 2.02 &1.6 valves installed . Having the head done in roughly a month and will get the installed hight at that point. I'll figure the springs out then.

Take a look at Comp conical single spring 7228-12 with retainer 787-12It would have to be installed at 1.800"Pricey but will hold it's spring rate a lot longer than the straight wound springs.The reduced spring and retainer mass will help with high rpm valve train stability.

pmuller9 wrote:Take a look at Comp conical single spring 7228-12 with retainer 787-12It would have to be installed at 1.800"Pricey but will hold it's spring rate a lot longer than the straight wound springs.The reduced spring and retainer mass will help with high rpm valve train stability.

I’ve wondered why progressive valve springs weren’t more commonly used. Without a doubt it’s harder to set up, but a low seat pressure and high spring frequency at max lift has some clear advantages. I would imagine that coil bind issues are easier to run into unless you can actually find that perfect progression.

Why would a progressive spring hold a true rate longer?

Last edited by Wesman07 on Sun Jun 02, 2019 11:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.