After a somewhat too peaceful fortnight in Addis, I’m pleased to leave and to have a view of more exotic lands in the provinces. I’m going to get to my post at the Harar Military Academy by the Franco-Ethiopian Railway (CFE), via Dire Dawa.

I buy my ticket – a small and thick cardboard rectangle – at the station in advance. On the 28th of November in the morning, it’s the great leap to the unknown and to the adventures that are waiting for me. My mate and future colleague Jean-Luc B. is going with me. We had been firmly told during the course in Paris never to travel third class. The idea of saving money or seeing more ‘local colour’ would be improper and a very bad one. So we have got second class tickets.

The train has just left the station. No traffic jams occur at the level crossings for the south suburbs broad avenues are almost empty in those times, at least at this time of day.The Municipality is visible on the left.

The train is slow, not comfortable and stops at all stations. There are quite a lot of them. Often, the station is but a very small building but it always bears the place’s name in French and Amharic. Usually, a lovely purple bougainvillea embellishes it and often the modest façade is decorated with the French and Ethiopian flags. Here is Nazareth, unexpected appellation that was chosen by emperor Haile Selassie I to rename the town, which has now recovered its original designation of Adama.

Near Metehara, the single-track railway crosses stretches of water on a levee. I can sight a volcano in the background. It seems asleep but lava flows look recent. Perhaps these outpourings, blocking a stream, created these small lakes.

The stop in Awash is usually longer in order to enable the travellers to have lunch at the Buffet de la Gare. At each stop, we can see colourful scenes and people get in and out. Sellers of fruit, vegetables, baskets and other goods offer their products, stretching up their arms in front of the lowered panes of the carriages. For the inhabitants and the whole country, this railway is a window opened onto the world and a vital link. But I can’t hide from you I see a lot of poverty. In the afternoon heat, up to dark, villages, looking a little lost in the middle of nowhere, are dotted along the track. Among the last ones are Afdem, Errer, Urso (see HERE), then we get out in Dire Dawa, the important town which owes the railway everything.

The following day (29 Nov.), we visit Dire Dawa. It’s an engaging town and I loved it at first sight. Here is the Greek church. I register at the French Consulate: I’m a resident in Hararghe now (Annex 04). We spend two nights in the town and then we take a collective taxi to Harar on the 30th of November. Jean-Luc and I will go to Dire Dawa again very often. See Parts 8 and 9. PART 3