7 p.m.Lines jam the front door, with the drive-through parade nearly blocking traffic on SE Powell Boulevard. Seemingly everyone, from Beaverton to Gresham, has arrived for the evening burger pilgrimage.

11 p.m.Glassy-eyed skater punks, pungent drifters, and, yes, the staff from Taco Bell across the street all hunch over the Double Deluxe: two griddled, crispy-edged patties in a potato bun, slathered in proprietary special sauce, and embalmed in American cheese—the whole thing turned on its side to face the customer like a grinning heart attack.

This is a typical day at Super Deluxe, Portland’s new answer to In-N-Out from Blue Star Donuts firebrand Micah Camden and partner Matt Lynch. It’s also the great fast-food equalizer, drawing one of the city’s most varied crowds. The secret formula? Super Deluxe taps into the cultishness of beloved regional burger chains (In-N-Out, Shake Shack, and Dick’s, to name a few), the allure of responsibly raised Northwest meat and eggs, and the bottom line ($5.75 for a double) that wins over Foster-Powell’s fast-food culture.

Are there problems? You don’t open a drive-through on Powell after a decade of millennial-geared fast-casual thinking without a few rough patches—consistency, long wait times, and general cleanliness. But this burger joint is evolving every day, like the supercomputer from War Games. Will there be more Super Deluxes? Almost certainly. Should Burgerville be worried? Absolutely.