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Mexico City travel guide

Mexico City is North America's highest city, and one of the
world's most densely populated. It sprawls across a valley
encircled by ice-capped volcanoes and mountains, atop an ancient
Aztec civilisation. With a long and fascinating history that runs
from ancient native civilisations through to the invasion of the
Conquistadors and subsequent colonial rule, Mexico City has a vast
number of fascinating sights and attractions.

In the city centre, constructed out of the stones of the ancient
palaces and temples, is the vast open space of the Zocalo - the
main city square - said to be the second largest in the world after
Moscow's Red Square. At La Merced you'll discover the city's
biggest and most vibrant market, with a vast array of bizarre and
exciting stalls. The huge expanse of the Bosque de Chapultepec park
houses the National Museum of Anthropology, with a fascinating
collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts. At Teotihuac visitors will
discover one of the most impressive and mysterious archaeological
sites in Mexico, constructed by an ancient, and long forgotten
culture.

The sprawling capital of Mexico has some world-class museums and
galleries, and a remarkable architectural legacy with elegant
buildings, palaces and cathedrals, colonial suburbs, historical
ruins and modern skyscrapers. It also has poverty, overcrowding and
slums, pollution, traffic congestion, crime, unemployment, and a
constant cacophony of people and noise. It is exhilarating,
frenetic and fascinating, overflowing with all that is good and bad
about urban life.

Despite its problems and somewhat bewildering energy Mexico City
is a magnet for Mexicans and tourists alike: a modern, cosmopolitan
and ever growing city that is attractive in many ways. Despite its
renown for the appalling, throat-rasping levels of pollution,
Mexico City's skies often remain remarkably clear, and the smog
does make for incredible sunsets.

In the middle of the Mexico City's historic centre is the
enormous paved Plaza de la Constitucion, or Zocalo, the second
largest city square in the world, and Mexico City's centre of
government and religion. The Presidential Palace dominates one side
of the square, a magnificent colonial building that was built on
the site of the former Aztec Palace, with remarkable interior
murals narrating the story of Mexico's history. Dominating an
adjacent side of the square is the great Metropolitan Cathedral,
displaying a wealth of architectural styles and occupying the site
of the once sacred grounds of the Aztec. The ornate interior
contains its chief treasure, the King's Chapel and gilded altar.
The Cathedral is one of the buildings subsiding into the soft
ground on which the city is built and builders are continuously at
work to prevent its uneven descent.

The square itself is always filled with activity, with vendors
and buskers, informal traditional Aztec dance performances, family
groups, workers on lunch break and passing tourists. It is also the
main site for demonstrations, government rallies and protest
marches (which tourists are advised to avoid), as well as festivals
and public holiday events. Every evening the presidential guards,
in a show of great ceremony, lower the national flag from the
central flagpole. The square is constantly encircled by the city's
ubiquitous green Volkswagen taxis, and is a good starting point for
those wanting to explore the city.

Templo Mayor (Great Temple) was the principal temple of the
Aztecs, believed to mark the centre of the universe. It was part of
the sacred complex of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan, and today
it has been excavated to show the multiple layers of construction,
viewed from a raised walkway with extra explanatory material
available in the form of audio guides and tour guides. The temple
was first built in 1375, and enlarged several times, each
rebuilding accompanied by a frenzied bloody sacrifice of captured
warriors to rededicate the sacred area. At the centre is a platform
on which stands a sacrificial stone in front of the shrine to the
tribal god, Huizilopochtli. Within the site is the excellent Museo
del Templo Mayor, a museum displaying artefacts from the original
site and providing an overview of Aztec civilisation. The most
important display is the first artefact to be discovered on the
site, the great wheel-like stone carving of the Aztec goddess of
the moon, Coyilxauhqui. The entrance fee covers admission to both
the museum and the archaeological site. Photography is permitted,
but there is an additional charge for those wanting to take video
footage. There is a book store and museum shop for those wanting to
buy souvenirs.

Transport: Take metro to Zocalo. Templo Mayor is off Zocalo, to the
right of the city cathedral if you face it.

Opening time: Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 5pm.

San Angel

Formerly a separate village, San Angel is one of the more
charming of Mexico's suburbs, an exclusive neighbourhood with
ancient mansions and colonial houses along cobbled streets. It is
famed for its Saturday craft market in the pretty Plaza San
Jacinto, which brings colour, crowds and a festive atmosphere to
the area, and has excellent art and handicrafts for sale. The
suburb is crammed with little restaurants and cafes, offering the
city's best dining experiences, albeit expensive. There are several
museums of interest, including the Studio Museum of Mexico, which
boasts great exhibits on famous Mexican artists Diego Rivera and
Frida Kahlo. The El Carmen complex is one of the prime attractions
of the neighbourhood: El Carmen consists of a lovely triple-domed
church, a former monastery, school buildings, and a museum. The
monastery was founded in 1613 and the church was built by 1626. The
museum is one of the most visited in the city and exhibits a number
of historical artefacts from the complex, a collection of colonial
era art, and a crypt area dedicated to mummies which attracts many
curious tourists. San Angel is surrounded by a volcanic rock bed
called the Pedregal, formed in a long-ago volcanic eruption and
parts of this unusual landscape have been declared protected areas
where visitors can see the endemic flora and fauna.

The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) is the city's major dining, nightlife
and shopping district. It is a compact area, a dense knot of
streets crammed with bars, shops, boutiques, restaurants and
hotels. The streets are all named for famous cities such as Londres
and Hamburgo and the best activity here is to people watch from a
chic sidewalk café, as the endless stream of tourists and a mixture
of the city's purposeful middle classes pass by. The district has
subtly shifted in its appeal recently and whereas it was once a
fashionable hub for youth and the upper classes, the Zona Rosa is
now also frequented by the city's gay community and tourists. The
symbol of Mexico City, a gilded statue of Winged Victory which is
the Independence Monument, looms above the district and is one of
the city's most photographic features. Although there is plenty of
accommodation available in the area, travellers are advised that it
can be noisy at night and is best suited to those who will be
enjoying the revelry and making the noise. Tourists should also
watch out for pickpockets and opportunistic street crimes, as
thieves do tend to target the area. Do not walk alone at night or
publicly display wealth.

Situated 31 miles (50km) from Mexico City, the UNESCO World
Heritage Site of Teotihuacan is the site of Mexico's largest
ancient city, constructed by a long forgotten culture, and dating
from around 300-600 BC. It is believed that after thriving for
about 2,000 years, a great fire caused the city to be abandoned and
the Aztecs arrived in the region to find a forsaken city.
Recognising signs of its previous magnificence they named it what
it is today, Teotihuacan, 'place of the gods'.

The central thoroughfare of Teotihuacan is the Avenue of the
Dead, a 1.3 mile (2km) stretch lined with the palaces of the elite
and connecting the three main site areas, the Pyramid of the Sun,
the Pyramid of the Moon, and the Citadel. The Pyramid of the Sun is
the third largest pyramid in the world, a huge red painted
structure built over a cave, found to contain religious artefacts
relating to sun worship. From the top of the stairs the views over
the ruins are fantastic. The smaller but more graceful Pyramid of
the Moon is situated at one end of the Avenue, with an altar in the
plaza believed to have been used for religious dancing. The Citadel
at the other end of the Avenue is a large square complex that was
the residence of the city's ruler. Within the walls is its main
feature, the Templo de Quetzalcoatl, and some striking serpent
carvings. The Tepantitla Palace holds Teotihuacan's most famous
fresco, the faded 'Paradise of Tlaloc'. There is a museum housing
excellent displays of the city's artefacts, models and explanatory
diagrams of the site.

Guanajuato is considered to be one of Mexico's colonial gems,
founded around the rich silver deposits discovered by the Spanish
in 1558. It is a city of history, where the cry of rebellion
against the Spanish was raised and the struggle for Independence
began, a history of wealthy silver barons and oppressed Indian
miners. The city has an unusual layout, crammed into a narrow
valley, with houses and streets forced into irregular positions due
to the naturally hilly topography. Brightly painted
higgledy-piggledy houses perch on the slopes, reached by narrow
crooked alleyways of cobbled stone, hidden plazas, steep irregular
stairways, underground tunnels and thoroughfares lend the city much
of its charming character.

Along with its picturesque setting and unusual beauty,
Guanajuato has many historical buildings and magnificent
architecture, including several churches and museums, and has been
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most narrow, and most
visited, alley is the Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss) where
the balconies of the leaning houses on either side almost touch
each other, a feature in the local romantic legend about furtive
lovers exchanging kisses. Cultural events are an important part of
the city, which hosts several festivals during the year. Every
weekend the famous strolling musicians, or callejoneadas, in
traditional dress, lead processions through the narrow winding
alleyways, strumming, singing and telling stories to the crowds
that follow.

Bosque de Chapultepec is a truly immense
urban park. This green lung of mexico city spans over 686 hectares
(1,695 acres), and pumps the metropolis full of fresh, clean air.
It's home to museums, boating lakes, monuments, a zoo, playing
fields and Chapultepec Castle, among other attractions.

Bosque de Chapultepec is where Mexico City
locals spend their lunch breaks and weekend days. It's Mexico's
answer to Central Park, and on any day it is brimming with people.
In the centre of the park, the Chapultepec Castle stands on a hill,
bedecked with stained glass windows and red brick turrets. It
houses the National History Museum, and offers incredible views of
the city.

There's plenty to see in the park, but make
sure you allow time to grab a taco from a vendor, and take a pedal
boat out on the lake. It's also quite possibly the best place in
the city to kick back and indulge in some people-watching.

Marking the end of the festive season, 40 days after Christmas,
Candlemas Day (Candelaria) is a nationwide traditional celebration,
partly a Catholic tradition and partly a pre-Hispanic ritual. The
day is primarily a family celebration and a time of reunions and
religious worship; often a chosen member of each family hosts a
party, offering tasty tamales and atole (a beverage made from
corn). There are numerous street parades with groups carrying
representations of Baby Jesus to church where special masses are
held. This aspect of the festival is clearly a nod to the Jewish
tradition of waiting 40 days to present a newborn baby at the
temple, which is the origin of the Catholic celebration. The 2nd of
February is also the mid-way point between the winter solstice and
the spring equinox and is therefore a date celebrated in many
cultures as a marker of seasonal change (for instance, Groundhog
Day). The festival is celebrated all over Mexico but places like
Mexico City, Veracruz and Tlacotalpan host the biggest markets,
street parties, and bullfights, turning the religious celebration
into a festive, public affair; whereas the smaller towns and
villages often restrict their celebrations to the church and
home.

Venue: Streets and churches throughout the city;
Date:2 February annually;

Independence Day

Mexicans celebrate the anniversary of their independence from
Spain with great gusto, particularly in Mexico City where the
Zocalo (main plaza) fills with throngs of people from early morning
the day before the event, as spectators await the appearance of the
president on the balcony of the National Palace. The president duly
appears to shout 'the Cry', a re-enactment of the 1810 call to
independence by Father Hidalgo. The original Cry or Grito was
pronounced in the small town of Dolores, near Guanajuato, and
marked the beginning of the Mexican War of Independence. Mexico
only became officially independent after more than a decade of war,
in 1821. The emotional crowd replies with 'Viva!' to the
president's re-enactment and the city erupts with excitement, abuzz
with street parties and fireworks.

Most towns, villages and cities have similar gatherings in their
central squares, with lots of festive paraphernalia like confetti
and whistles in the Mexican colours of green, white and red. The
following day a three-hour military parade begins at the Zocalo in
Mexico City and ends at the Angel monument on the Paseo de la
Reforma. Independence Day is one of Mexico's biggest celebrations,
if not the biggest, and it is a wonderful time to be in the
country!

A Mexican tradition with Aztec roots is the honouring of the
departed with traditions that nowadays closely resemble those of
Halloween celebrated to the north. The main function of the holiday
is to celebrate the memory of the departed with prayers, parties
and visits to graves. In most regions of Mexico November 1st is
celebrated in honour of lost children and infants, whereas November
2nd is in honour of dead adults; for this reason the first day is
actually called Dia de los Inocentes, or Day of the Innocents. The
Mexican celebrations coincide, aptly, with the Catholic holidays of
All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day.

In Mexico City markets and stores are liberally stocked with
flowers, candy skulls, paper skeletons and candles. Processions are
made to cemeteries, where vigils or even parties are held and the
favourite foods and possessions of dead relatives are often left at
their graves. Visitors to Mexico City who want to make the most of
the celebration should head for Mixquic, a mountain pueblo south of
the city, which hosts an elaborate street fair and solemn
processions to the town cemetery. Travellers should note that
although the Day of the Dead looks similar to Halloween, and does
often involve parties and happy celebrations, it is essentially a
sombre holiday which has deep meaning for participants and
shouldn't be taken lightly by foreigners.

In Autumn each year the Monarch butterflies gather in southern
Canada and begin a journey across North America to Mexico. The
insects that begin the journey in Canada will never see Mexico, but
their great-great-grandchildren will eventually make it to the
small town of Angangueo in Michoacan province some 3100 miles
(5000km) from the start of this epic journey. Like the butterflies,
tourists flock to the small town of Angangueo to see the millions
of bright orange butterflies obscuring the sky and some say you can
literally hear their wings beating. The annual migration of the
Monarch butterflies is one of nature's great mysteries and
continues to baffle biologists and nature lovers worldwide. The
Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve was deemed a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 2008. Only some areas within the reserve are open
to the public and tours can be organised to see the incredible
spectacle from the city of Morelia (visit the Tourism Office for
information). Getting to the right area in the reserve takes about
45 minutes on foot or shorter on horseback. The best time to see
the butterflies is between January and March each year. Don't
forget your camera!

Venue: The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve;
Date:February and March annually;

Cinco de Mayo

On every Fifth of May (Cinco de Mayo) in the state of Puebla,
the famous Battle of Puebla is commemorated with traditional music,
dancing and general festivities. The battle saw a far outnumbered
Mexican army defeat a large and better equipped French army on 5
May 1862. The French invading force, then considered the strongest
army in the world, encountered fierce resistance from Mexican
defenders at the forts of Loreto and Guadalupe, with the 4,500
Mexican troops unexpectedly defeating the 8,000-strong French
force.

Ironically, the day is probably more celebrated in the United
States than it is in Mexico, in a similar fashion to the
celebrations of St. Patrick's Day. Even the name Cinco de Mayo is
used more by the US, as the Mexicans often call the festival El Dia
de la Batalla de Puebla. For the US, the battle came to symbolise
the fight for freedom and democracy and was an inspiration during
the American Civil War; today, in the US, Cinco de Mayo is a
general celebration of Mexican heritage and pride, when Mexican
food, music and folk traditions are embraced. In Mexico the battle
is still commemorated enthusiastically, mainly with street fiestas
and parades, but the epicentre of the festivities is in Puebla.

Mexican fare is by far one of the world's most popular and
colourful cuisines, a

nd is one of the most distinctive styles of
food. With plenty of spice and flavour it packs a real punch! What
westerners know as 'Mexican food' includes dishes such as
Nachos, Burritos, Enchiladasand
fajitas, tortillasand
tacos,but there is plenty more on offer when
dining out in Mexico City.

Food varies greatly by region in Mexico and this is largely due
to the difference in Spanish influence on the indigenous
inhabitants. The north of Mexico is known for its beef, goat and
ostrich dishes, the Yucatan for its penchant for natural sweetness,
the Oaxacan for its savoury tamales, and the west for its dishes
like goat
birria(goat in a spicy tomato-based sauce).
Mexico City is a wonderful melting pot for these culinary
traditions and the best place to sample the variety of Mexican
food.

For an authentic Mexican dining experience, look no further than
one of the old converted Haciendas, such as Hacienda de los Morales
or Antigua Hacienda de Tlalpan on the outskirts of Mexico City,
which are actual ranches that have been converted into restaurants.
With charming décor, historic architecture and mouth-watering
cuisine, these kinds of restaurants attract travellers from far and
wide.

Street food is perhaps the most ubiquitous type of food in
Mexico City where fast food outlets and
puestas(street side food vendors) pepper the streets selling
all the usual favourites for very reasonable prices. However, the
Central Market, La Merced and the
Mercado San Juan Arcos de Belem,are the best places to go to indulge on really
good, really cheap Mexican fare.

In the capital city there are, of course, hundreds of
restaurants to choose from, with everything from Indian and French
to Japanese and Irish cuisine. Foodies should head for the
districts of Polanco, Condesa, Centro, Zona Rosa and Sante Fe to
gorge themselves at some of the country's finest restaurants on
regional cuisines or just a good old taco.

Tipping in restaurants is the norm, with 10 percent of the bill
being a good rule of thumb. Lunches are generally long and lazy and
much cheaper than dinners. Travellers should note that most
restaurants offer a
comida corrida(set menu) and this is a great way
of getting a good hearty meal at a reasonable price.

Angelopolitano

Angelopolitano is a very popular restaurant which serves classic
Mexican dishes with a modern gourmet twist. The setting is trendy
and intimate and the portions are generous and extremely tasty.
Downstairs there is a restaurant store selling traditional Mexican
preserves and sauces of high quality. They serve lunch and dinner
daily. the restaurants open between 10am and 10pm, and stays open a
little later on weekends.

Address: Puebla 371, Colonia Roma, Mexico City;

Café de Tacuba

Café Tacuba has a very colonial atmosphere, dating back to 1912.
Its décor features brass lamps, oil paintings and a mural of nuns
working in a kitchen. The authentic Mexican menu offers traditional
dishes including tamales, enchiladas, chiles rellenos and pozole,
and their pastries and hot chocolate are legendary. Open daily for
breakfast, lunch and dinner; reservations recommended.

La Opera is a luxurious dining venue with dark wood booths and
linen-covered tables. The décor features gilded baroque ceilings
and beautiful oil paintings, and an added feature is the bullet
hole which revolutionary general, Pancho Villa, supposedly put in
the ceiling when he galloped into the restaurant on horseback. The
menu offers an array of sumptuous cuisine including Spanish tapas
and red snapper with olives and tomatoes. It's open Monday to
Saturday for lunch and dinner, and Sunday for lunch. Reservations
are recommended.

Nightlife options in Mexico City are vast and varied, ranging
from piano bars, music lounges and traditional Mexican bars to
salsa and jazz clubs or trendy nightclubs. San Angel, Polanco,
Condesa and La Zona Rosa are popular nightlife areas in the city,
and there are many late night venues that are open till the early
hours. There is a weekend entertainment guide in The News,
available at local newsagents, which can be useful.

Popular nightlife areas in Mexico City include the Condesa
district, as well as Polanco. Here you can find anything from
English and Irish pubs, to sophisticated clubs with great jazz
music and authentic Mariachi venues scattered everywhere in
between. Some of the best nightclubs in Mexico City are all located
in the Roma district, while many of the top hotels in Mexico City
offer live entertainment at their in-house discos and lobby bars.
It is safest not to walk around alone at night in the city and only
official, pre-ordered taxi cabs should be used.

There's never a dull moment when shopping in Mexico City. You
can find everything from authentic local crafts to the major brands
and stores one might expect in any big capital. The best Mexican
souvenirs tend to be Talavera tiles and ceramics, embroidered
garments, sterling silver jewellery and accessories, and hand-woven
rugs and blankets.

One of the most popular shopping areas in Mexico City is the
Centro Historico, home to most of the city's original stores, while
La Zona Rosa is also well established and the popular shopping
centre Reforma 222 can be found there. Avenida Insurgentes and
Avenida Jaurez also offer a wealth of shopping opportunities. Most
recently, the La Condesa and Polanco areas have developed as strong
retail centres. Centro Santa Fe, in the western part of the city,
is the largest shopping centre in Latin America, and the upscale
Perisur shopping mall to the south is also a good stop.

Nobody goes to Mexico for the malls, though: the city's markets
are where you'll get into the groove of the place. There's the San
Juan Market of Mexican Curiosities and the Mercado la Ciudadela in
Centro Historico, as well as the Bazar Sabado (Saturday Bazaar) in
San Angel. Fonart outlets throughout the city also sell local
crafts such as hand-painted crockery and blown glass.

Most shops in Mexico City are open from 9am to 8pm, with smaller
shops taking a break between 2pm and 4pm. The 15 percent VAT
charged on goods can be reclaimed at the airport on purchases
exceeding MXN 1200. Travellers must present a completed
reimbursement request form, banking information, passport,
immigration form (visa, tourist card), plane ticket, purchase
receipts and goods purchased.

Location: The airport is situated six miles (10km) east of Mexico
City.Time: Local time is GMT -6 (GMT -5 between the first
Sunday in April and the second last Sunday in
October).Contacts: Tel: +52 (0)2482 2424.Transfer between terminals: Passengers can ride the free Air Train between the two
terminals. The general public have to take the public
transportation bus between the terminals at a nominal charge.Getting to the city: The Mexico City Metro subway system links the airport to
downtown Mexico City. There are also suburban bus services
including Autobuses del Oriente (ADO) and Autobuses Estrella Roja.
Some hotels offer a pick-up service; however, it is worth checking
their charge as it is generally cheaper to take a taxi.Car rental: Car rental companies include Avis, Budget and National.Airport Taxis: Taxis are regulated and passengers can pay in advance at the
taxi counter in Arrivals. Authorized taxis are mustard yellow with
an aeroplane logo. It takes about 45 minutes to the city
centre. Facilities: Facilities at the airport include ATMs, banks, bureaux de
change, business facilities, a post office, restaurants, shops,
hotel reservations and tourist information. Parking: Parking at Mexico City International Airport is charged at MXN
44 per hour, up to a limit of MXN 288 per day. Website:www.aicm.com.mx

The efficient and very cheap public transport system makes
Mexico City surprisingly easy to get around; it consists of the
metro, buses, trolley buses and minibuses (peseros). The metro is
the best method of travel, being fast and easy to use (6am to
midnight), but bus routes are also very extensive and the buses are
generally reliable, although more complicated for non-Spanish
speakers to use. Peseros are smaller, more comfortable, and faster
than buses, but slightly more expensive, and can be stopped
anywhere along their set routes. All forms of public transport are
heavily crowded during peak hours and are best avoided at this
time. Visitors should also be aware that crime levels are high on
all buses and the metro, particularly when crowded; visitors should
avoid travel on public transport at night and should take care of
their possessions. Visitors should not hail taxis on the streets.
Most hotels have official taxi drivers assigned to them or hotels
and restaurants can call radio taxis, both of which are more
expensive but safer and more reliable. Driving in the city is a
nightmare and cars should be left in secure parking; renting is
expensive and lone drivers are prone to criminal assaults at
night.

Mexico City has a subtropical highland climate, with warm
summers and mild winters, and an annual average temperature of 64°F
(18°C). Seasonal variations in temperature are small, but May is
the warmest month of the year, and January the coldest, when night
frosts are possible. The average maximum temperatures of late
spring and summer may reach up to 77°F (25°C), and the average low
winter temperatures reach 45°F (7°C). Mexico City has a high
average annual rainfall, most falling in summer, the wettest month
being July, and the driest month February. Even during the summer
rainy season, travellers are likely to get plenty of sunshine
between showers. Mexico City suffers from terrible air pollution
and the city is often smoggy, with poor visibility. This air
pollution is at its worst during winter. The city is a year-round
travel destination, but the best time to visit Mexico City is in
the spring months of April and May.