Strap lock loosening the button

I'm using Schaller strap locks and they always seem to loosen the strap buttons. If you experience this as well, how do you remedy the problem? Would using some type of grease be the ticket? The only problem with that is having grease on your strap buttons. Not overly keen on that....

someone needs to do a stickie on this one. break toothpicks to fit in the hole (several) wood glue Elmer glue works screw your button in and let set overnight. Bullet proof.

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+1. It's annoying that the Schaller buttons come with skinnier screws than many (ie. Fender) standard strap buttons. Even the Fender re-branded Schaller's come with a smaller screw than the buttons they are supposed to replaced.

I use Schallers on all my basses, and I've never had this happen. Is it possible that you used the Schaller screws and they are smaller than your original screws? I know some of my basses had larger original screws, so I did not use the Schaller screws.

Edit: guess I was too slow.

By the way, on one bass I did have to turn down the edge of the screw head to get it to fit inside the Schaller button. I happen to have a lathe, but you could do it carefully on a grinder

Schallers do come with smaller screws than most basses use. I used my original screws from my strap buttons. The heads on my original screws were slightly too big to fit into the recess of the Schaller buttons so I put the screw in a drill press with the threads wrapped in tape, turned the press on and ran a fine file on the edge of the screw head, rounding it as I went to make it nice, until it fit in the Schaller button. Might not be needed for all screws but I thought it was a better option. I did do the toothpick/glue trick on one of my basses and haven't had a problem since.

No need for a drill press or tape on the threads. Any cordless drill will do and just chuck the screw up so the nose of the chuck is right behind the screw head. Run the drill and use a file or some coarse sand paper and knock down the head diameter until they will fit fully into the strap lock buttons and you are golden.

When you install the new buttons, put a dab of glue in the holes even if you reuse the (ground down) Fender screws.

If you decide to use the smaller screws, follow the advice already laid out about toothpicks and glue.

Whichever way you go don't forget the felt washers between the button and body. I put a couple of extra on the button at the back to give me a little extra room between the strap and body for my chord.

Last of all if you are anal about things and want to put a little lube on the strap lock buttons, here's a link to a dry lube that won't pick up dust but will keep the buttons slicker than snot on a doorknob.

Aah. I didn't even think of just making the screws sit tighter... The brand new schallers actually come with 2 sets of screws now. So for my new strap locks its fine. It's the older one that needs a bit of work. Thanks for the advice!

When you install the new buttons, put a dab of glue in the holes even if you reuse the (ground down) Fender screws.

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No no no!

Don't put glue on those screws. This can make the screw tear up the hole the next time you remove it. Sometimes the screw will break free from the glue, but other times, it will tear the glue out of the wood and then drag that glue and torn wood back out through the hole, destroying what otherwise would have been nice threads pressed into the wood.

This is never a good idea unless you never plan to remove the screws. And, even if you DO never remove them, you're still screwing up the next owner.

Aah. I didn't even think of just making the screws sit tighter... The brand new schallers actually come with 2 sets of screws now. So for my new strap locks its fine. It's the older one that needs a bit of work. Thanks for the advice!

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The two sets of screws are BOTH too small in diameter for many guitars. You can, however, sometimes get away with the long ones if they are longer than the screws you are replacing. It still does not turn out as solid as turning down the heads of the stock screws.

Don't put glue on those screws. This can make the screw tear up the hole the next time you remove it. Sometimes the screw will break free from the glue, but other times, it will tear the glue out of the wood and then drag that glue and torn wood back out through the hole, destroying what otherwise would have been nice threads pressed into the wood.

This is never a good idea unless you never plan to remove the screws. And, even if you DO never remove them, you're still screwing up the next owner.

Don't put glue on those screws. This can make the screw tear up the hole the next time you remove it. Sometimes the screw will break free from the glue, but other times, it will tear the glue out of the wood and then drag that glue and torn wood back out through the hole, destroying what otherwise would have been nice threads pressed into the wood.

This is never a good idea unless you never plan to remove the screws. And, even if you DO never remove them, you're still screwing up the next owner.

Don't put glue on those screws. This can make the screw tear up the hole the next time you remove it. Sometimes the screw will break free from the glue, but other times, it will tear the glue out of the wood and then drag that glue and torn wood back out through the hole, destroying what otherwise would have been nice threads pressed into the wood.

This is never a good idea unless you never plan to remove the screws. And, even if you DO never remove them, you're still screwing up the next owner.

If you have had better luck, congratulations. One hell of a lot more than 20 years of experience has shown me what I described.

Wood glue DOES adhere to metal, albeit not nearly as well as it does to wood. The glue doesn't stick to the metal and break free from the wood, it sticks to the metal and the wood, and the wood fibers tear out. The softer the wood, the easier this happens.

Used screws will stick to the glue the best, with nice new chrome probably breaking free the easiest.

I'm not working from speculation here, but from repair work on electric basses and guitars and lots of furniture. I have had to fill the holes from what you guys are saying can't happen, so, it does.

If you have had better luck, congratulations. One hell of a lot more than 20 years of experience has shown me what I described.

Wood glue DOES adhere to metal, albeit not nearly as well as it does to wood. The glue doesn't stick to the metal and break free from the wood, it sticks to the metal and the wood, and the wood fibers tear out. The softer the wood, the easier this happens.

Used screws will stick to the glue the best, with nice new chrome probably breaking free the easiest.

I'm not working from speculation here, but from repair work on electric basses and guitars and lots of furniture. I have had to fill the holes from what you guys are saying can't happen, so, it does.

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Many of us have plenty of experience with this technique, without experiencing what you describe. We have qualified luthiers and guitar tech on here that have never warned against what you describe. This technique is discussed almost weekly on this website, yet I think you're the first person that has warned against this technique for this reason.

I award you for creativity and uniqueness, but I don't think it works the way you think it works.

Many of us have plenty of experience with this technique, without experiencing what you describe. We have qualified luthiers and guitar tech on here that have never warned against what you describe. This technique is discussed almost weekly on this website, yet I think you're the first person that has warned against this technique for this reason.

I award you for creativity and uniqueness, but I don't think it works the way you think it works.

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Well, if you are all experts, then certainly what I have actually experienced cannot hope to compare to your authority.

Well, that's kind off the idea. A lot of people on here (including myself) have been doing the glue/toothpick trick for a long, long time. So, yes - your experiences cannot hope to compare to our authority.

If you have had better luck, congratulations. One hell of a lot more than 20 years of experience has shown me what I described.

Wood glue DOES adhere to metal, albeit not nearly as well as it does to wood. The glue doesn't stick to the metal and break free from the wood, it sticks to the metal and the wood, and the wood fibers tear out. The softer the wood, the easier this happens.

Used screws will stick to the glue the best, with nice new chrome probably breaking free the easiest.

I'm not working from speculation here, but from repair work on electric basses and guitars and lots of furniture. I have had to fill the holes from what you guys are saying can't happen, so, it does.

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What can I say - my direct experience contradicts what you're claiming...