2nd paragraph contains instructions:
I just wanted to add a little advice to this area. I spent 3 hours trying to remove a single rusted on rotor on my 2000 exp. Everyone says use a bigger hammer... well I did. A 3 lb hammer, 5 lb hammer and a 10 pound sledge. I also tried a can of deep creep and wd40. I also tried... heat and impact tools. Then I tried 30 minutes of searching on the internet. Finnally, I found the correct advice somewhere (I cannot find it again) so I wanted to pass the information on to the rest of you because those three hours were so #$%^&*. This is a very neat trick.

After removing the caliper and the caliper bracket you have 2 nice holes to work with to help you remove the rotor. Go buy a few 1/2 inch bolts at least 4 in long with nuts. Slide the bolt through the caliper bracket hole from the inside of the truck towards the rotor. As you slide in the bolt, place a nut on the bolt between the caliper bracket and the rotor. Hold the nut while tightening the bolt. The end of the bolt will push against the rotor and the the nut will push against the caliper bracket. Tighten the bolt as much as you can.. I mean really tight. Put on the second bolt in the other hole. After getting them both as tight as possible hit the rotor with a hammer. See if it moves at at all. Try tightening the bolts again. Hit it again. If it doesn't come off yet. Losen the bolts, turn the rotor 1/2 way try it again. On the first rotor it only took tighten the bolts once. On the second rotor it took 2 rotations of the rotor. 3 hours of pounding on the first rotor then 5 minutes with the bolt and the rotor popped off. On the second rotor it only took about 10 minutes to get it off.

Hope this helps a few of you... I wish I could have found this trick right away

Wish I had seen this a year ago...
After I used a bigger hammer and actually broke a chunk of the rotor out, I devised my own plan. NOT RECOMMENDED, but it worked.
This sonds like it would have probably been easier...

I have a 2WD 97 expy with seriously frozen/rusted front rotors (I assume).
Is there a difference in removal for 2WD vs 4WD?

I have tried PB Blaster (on the front bearing area and in the back along what look like a corregated ring), the screw method and event the cut off half the rotor method, and the beat it with a chisel in the wedge method, not a budge.

I read somewhere that the 2WD requiried removal of the bearing. True?

Is there an pics on the proper place to cut and where to PB blast in case I am doing it wrong? I would post what my rotor looks like now, but it may not be suitable for sensitive individuals.

Since the expy is in serious immobile condition, I will need to call a mobile auto repair if I cannot get these rotors off....

It may be obvious to some, but someone should mention on ALL those posts with tips about removing the front rotors that they apply to 4WD only.

Because of all of the hammering, bending, or stress placed on them; you might want to replace the bearings instead of reusing them.

As far as mentioning the rotor removal issue on 4WD models only, well if you think education is expensive, try ignorance. Did you buy a factory repair manual for your vehicle? Did you look up a picture of your rotors online to see that they were one piece? There's only so much we can do from the other side of a computer screen.

Look at the money you saved by not bringing in a mobile repair service now.
I also would replace the bearings with all that beating and stress going on . The rotor should already have new inner and outer races in them .

Yes if you have a 2WD model. I just replied with just that answer in the other thread that you posed this question in.

I know but I am really stressing here. I appreciate it. I am always intimidated to do much to my big beautiful Excursion but I had to. I am replacing the rotors calipers and brakes as it is in GREAT need of it. I also upgraded to Zinc plated cross-drilled rotors. Alright so I've got it now I have to remove the whole thing. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I LOVE FTE!!!!!!!

Alright so I know that I have to remove the entire wheel/hub assembly, but does that mean I will have to repack my bearings???

That frightens me. How would I do that or I guess I could search on FTE first but is there an easy answer(since I already started to ask I might as well finish). I hope I don't sound like a big idiot I am just a Ford lover looking to save a few bucks everywhere I can.

Yes it does, so prepare to get your hands dirty. Some will just pack the new grease in and allow the new grease to force out the old grease, while others (like me) will clean the bearings of all grease then pack the new grease in.

You place a glob of grease in the palm of your hand, then with the other hand press the back of the bearing into the glob, forcing the grease into the bearings. You keep doing this until the grease oozes out the front of the bearing. Once it oozes out, rotate the bearing a bit and do it again. Keep doing this until the bearing has made one revolution. Wipe the excess grease off of the outside and from the inside of it's center hole. It's now ready to install.

I did it!!! Finally go the old rotors out......repacked the bearings installed the new calipers and pads then on with the nice new shiny Crossdrilled rotors...so pretty. Thank you to all and if there are still people watching this thread and you need assistance I feel as though now I am able to give you my amateur opinions..lol. Thanks again FTE as the forum has helped save me another $260 off my repairs!! WOOHOO