Hi Everyone, I’m a beginner in the wood working world and just bought my first table saw, a Bosch 4100. I had bought a better blade, a Freud LU84R011 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade to replace the stock blade that came with the saw. When I took off the stock Bosch blade the face plate was facing forwards, but the Freud blade the face plate ended up facing backwards showing the backside of the blade.

My question…as long as the teeth of the blade are moving down towards the front of the saw I’m good to go? Is it common for some blades to face forwards while others face backwards?

13 replies so far

Doesn’t matter which side of the blade the words are on. Just that the cutting teeth spin towards and down into the table you as you cut. If you install the blade backwards it’ll just burn and smoke the lumber. (Ask me how I know this ) LOL

Also. Always keep your blades clean. I inspect mine once a week for pitch/sap build up. It looks like dried snot on the carbide tips. Simple green works pretty well. Vm/p naptha works too. I have a small scrub brush( it’s nylon I believe) to help remove stubborn pitch. And be wary. Carbide will cut your fingers quickly. Don’t forget to oil the blade lightly if you use a water based product to clean it to prevent rust.

There are left and right tilt saws. Thats why the blades are marked on different sides to fit the matching tilt saw. Reverse mounting blades is an old trick to cut thin alum. If your tools are metric be sure to use metric oil like they have in Canada. If you get stuck most shops will loan you the metric / english conversion funnel.

There are left and right tilt saws. Thats why the blades are marked on different sides to fit the matching tilt saw. Reverse mounting blades is an old trick to cut thin alum. If your tools are metric be sure to use metric oil like they have in Canada. If you get stuck most shops will loan you the metric / english conversion funnel.

M

Answers: $1Correct Answers: $5Dumb looks are still free!

- MadMark

I keep my metric tool lubricant stored under the work bench next to my wood stretcher.

As long as the carbide teeth are in front when it rotates and are supported by the shoulder, you’re fine.

Since you said you’re new to this, I think you’d be better off with the 3/32” thin kerf version of that blade…the LU83R010. The LU84 is 25% wider, and thus requires more power to make the same cuts…it’ll work, but will struggle more in thicker materials.

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