A non roller camshaft, pre 1986 302 can be updated and modified for many more horespower. Unfortuantely you will be throwing away everything but the block to get to that point plus spending a heluva lot of bucks. Either a 5.0L '87 up roller cammed engine with a set of some version GT40 head or a 351W, also roller cammed (1995-1996 Ford truck with F4TE block) and with a decent set of heads can be used in that engine compartment, both physically interchangeable though not all engine parts are. Add a decent 4 bbl carb, use one of Ford's letter camahfts and you will be right in the ballpark. Whatever way you go, you do need to do your homework with any engine and Ford's often being more 'interesting'. Just be really careful with anything that says 'Cleveland' or 'Modified'. as these engines tend to be even more 'interesting' then the 'W' series though with the right mods are fantastic performers but tend to get expensive. I would not add a turbo/supercharger to any SB Ford(302) unless it was a Ford Racing, Mexican or Australian block

Why no turbo? It's been done a lot and seems like the easiest, cheapest, and safest way to make power in this situation. I would also just keep the efi intake on an HO engine instead of spending all that money to downgrade to a carb.

Why no turbo? It's been done a lot and seems like the easiest, cheapest, and safest way to make power in this situation. I would also just keep the efi intake on an HO engine instead of spending all that money to downgrade to a carb.

JMO though.

OEM Ford 302's tend to be pretty puny with their much heralded thin wall casting with many literally splitting in half. Yeah, those are very stressed and modified. Also with a used (abused?) salvage yard block, you have little knowledge of past life. Where they split is between the first main and the first camshaft bearing, and is not an unusual thing. Any of these salvage yard SB Fords need to have at least a minimum of a dye check with even more testing like mag particle if any questions.

As far as keeping an EFI, not a bad idea if the entire system is included with the engine purchase. Unfortunately, the only pieces you normally will get from a junk yard will be what's on the engine. The best way is to buy a complete running car. After market wiring/sensors/computers is not an inexpensive proposition, even stock replacement parts, and why I suggest a carb = and of course there are drawbacks such as possibly needing a front sump oil pan and oil pick up, different timing housing, fuel pump eccentric just to name a few things. I do run SB Fords (5.0's mostly and have gone through most of these pains)

OEM Ford 302's tend to be pretty puny with their much heralded thin wall casting with many literally splitting in half. Yeah, those are very stressed and modified. Also with a used (abused?) salvage yard block, you have little knowledge of past life. Where they split is between the first main and the first camshaft bearing, and is not an unusual thing. Any of these salvage yard SB Fords need to have at least a minimum of a dye check with even more testing like mag particle if any questions.

As far as keeping an EFI, not a bad idea if the entire system is included with the engine purchase. Unfortunately, the only pieces you normally will get from a junk yard will be what's on the engine. The best way is to buy a complete running car. After market wiring/sensors/computers is not an inexpensive proposition, even stock replacement parts, and why I suggest a carb = and of course there are drawbacks such as possibly needing a front sump oil pan and oil pick up, different timing housing, fuel pump eccentric just to name a few things. I do run SB Fords (5.0's mostly and have gone through most of these pains)

I've had the experience of seeing 302 blocks cracking from just sitting.In my experience,i've seen cracks mostly @ the rear of the block.Usually from the crank & outwards of it.

Compared to the factory two barrel intake the Performer and Holley probably gained you about 10-12 HP The only advantage of the standard Performer intake over a stock 4 barrel is a weight savings of about 22 lbs.Your '71 was one of the first years for smog motors with retarded camshaft timing and the crappy Thermo bump heads and dual diaphram retard distributors.The best thing you should do is is address these issues with a camshaft change and better heads and ignition.So lets start here:Six Budget Ford Heads That Work - Car Craft Magazine Since you stated on another post you mentioned you still wanted good mileage so actually the best priced Flo-Tek heads could work in your favor keeping in mind the weight of your car it takes torque to move weight so this is my suggestion for a camshaft:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...view/make/ford I have it in my cruiser the bottom end and mid-range is very good it will pull up to 6,000 RPM no problem with the RPM intake I have your Performer intake will still have good low and midrange power.The weak link in SBF Fords is getting them to breathe, so the extra exhaust duration in this cam and better heads will help you with your goal for a distributor that is reliable and budget friendly and EZ to hook up go this route:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850022 all it needs is a 12 volt source and it's a done deal.Now let's address the advice given above,for up to 400 HP the later roller blocks are OK above that it gets scary your '71 block has more beef not as much as the prefered Mexican block but it will get the job done.Camshaft break in is critical with a flat tappet hydraulic as opposed to a roller cam but that is easily addressed.With the better heads and Cam you will need headers to enhance the package.

Is there anything at the junkyard that might be of decent use?
I was thinking If I could get a 351 windsor cheap It would get decent mileage as i wouldnt have to press the skinny pedal so hard to get moving.

Is there anything at the junkyard that might be of decent use?
I was thinking If I could get a 351 windsor cheap It would get decent mileage as i wouldnt have to press the skinny pedal so hard to get moving.

You can't have your cake as well as eat it. A 351W is NOT an economy engine in any shape or form. It takes more air and fuel mixture to fill those extra 49 cubic inches, all of which enter and exit though the same basic design intake, heads and exhaust as your 302 and turning a higher rotating mass, larger bearing engine. You have to decide if you want gas mileage or performance - and a 351W has seldom ever been chosen as a mileage miser.

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