WORLD FARE: Why the comparison at Larry’s Deli?

We pretty much suck at deli. There are many types of food and restaurants we do really well in San Diego but deli just isn’t one of them. So when Larry’s Deli (323 7th Ave.) in East Village introduced itself as “a tribute to the nostalgic classic deli,” invoking the names of New York’s Katz’s and Los Angeles’ Langer’s and Canter’s, I was hopeful. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been. The better question, though, is why they went there in the first place.