Been looking all over but have not found any listings for a replacement battery for a 60 gig x5. I have seen plenty listed for all the others but not for the 60 gig. My current battery seems to discharge completely after 2 days even if it is not on so it must be dead right.

I have seen a 2200 mAh one for the 20 gig xl model. Does anyone know if that would fit. or can they recomend a new battery that i can order from the Uk if this is no good?

I had no luck at all with a whole bunch of places like the batteryupgrade place i listed on the first post. They were no bloody help at all just said it's different and we don't have any listed for that player.

Eventually i sent a message to http://www.batterymill.com who said they had nothing listed but to send them the specs and measurements and they would take a tape measure and try to find one suitable.

Just do a search for a REPLACEMENT BATTERY FOR PALM Tungsten E2 1050 mAh on google and you should find something near to you without too much trouble. I would say don't be tempted to go for a higher capacity one as i believe they are thicker and this one fits snuggly. i don't reckon you would have much luck squeezing in a thicker battery.

flex4life, you can go over to http://iaudiophile.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=11 and browse through the photos over there to familiarize yourself with the insides of the X5. First, remove the back cover. The screws are very small and there are two different sizes. Make sure you put them aside in a safe location. There is a plastic mount on the top board of the unit that the rear case screws go into. You need to remove this as it will give you a little more room to get the hard drive out. Carefully peel back the "T" shaped adhesive tape from the hard drive and move the wires off to the sides of the hard drive. You will need to carefully pivot the hard drive up from the top end and then pull it out towards the "T" shaped adhesive till the bottom comes free. Be gentle, be patient. Once it is free you can swing it out to the same side that the it connects on at a right angle to the unit. From there you just remove the rubber gasket and the battery will be exposed. The unit will want to rock around due to the shape of the front case and the joystick. Find something to go underneath the bottom end of the front case to reduce the rocking. You need to position the unit to make it easier for you to get your iron into the unit. Try a dry run with a cold solder iron to see what works best for you. I would de-solder the black side first and then the red. DO NOT LET THESE WIRES COME IN CONTACT WITH EACH OTHER. Soldering is an entire lesson in and of itself. I would recommend you do some practicing on some scrap electronics if you have no experience. The key to a good solder joint is that everything you are soldering together has to come up to the same temperature. That is the wire, the solder and the plated through-hole that the wire is going into have to come up to the same temperature. Good surface contact is the key. Use a chisel type tip and not one with a pointed end, you will get better surface contact with flat tip than a pointed one. Once you solder your joint pull away and give it a few seconds to solidify as solder does not solidify the instant heat is removed. Also, I would recommend you get an anti-static wrist strap to ground yourself. Electrostatic discharge kills and damages semiconductors such as the chips that are in these units. Reassembly is just the reverse. Again, be patient and careful. Good luck.