I've always had good results when removing the bottom stamp on Cryztal, as it's usually white. I have noticed the matte finish you speak of, but only a little, and only on the Cryztal. I suggest not scrubbing too hard, see if that makes a difference. Dab the top color off, then wipe the underlying silver.

I've also removed just portions of stamps before, with mixed results. A light touch and a small paper towel is best. I've also used a Q-Tip with a little success for really touchy areas.

Craig Smolin wrote:...

I don't want to continue speaking for Chuck, but I do believe he uses a straight blade. I've messed with the swivel blade some, and it can be nice, but it can also turn too sharp or not sharp enough if you're not careful.

Another thing I realized after re-watching the video, was that I taped my stencil and contact paper directly to the piece of glass. In my next practice session, I'm going to tape the stencil and contact paper together, and not to the glass. We'll see if that makes things easier.

Discraft's deep stamps are a PITA to remove. I tried nearly everything (magic eraser - sucked, goo-gone - sucked, dish scrubber & dish soap - sucked, rubbing acetone - slightly less sucky). My best results were to dump some acetone on, give it a 15 (or so) count. Try to wipe off the stamp, rinse w/ water, and repeat until most of the stamp was gone. This was on ESP plastic.

I've never gotten the dull/scrateched areas from using acetone, but I could see it happening if it sits too long on the disc. I have had colors of the stamp bleed into the disc while removing it with acetone, but this is usually lighter and can be removed w/ more acetone.

Craig Smolin wrote:So, what do you guys use to cover up a section you don't want dyed? More contact paper? Masking tape? Also, does stepping up to "sign vinyl" make cutting easier or harder? What color order do you dye in? Obviously doing a black layer and then a single color layer is simple (black first, color second). But a third color?

If doing colors I don't want mixed I've found the clear contac paper to work excellent. Cut & dye the first color, apply clear contac paper to disc & cut. YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT VERY LIGHTLY ON THE DISC. This works well when following the lines of the first color.

I believe chuck uses a straight x-acto w/ the #16 blades (correct me if I'm wrong chuck). The 16's are hands down better than the standard #11's (thanks chuck!!!). Also, when the blade start to catch the paper & tear it instead of cut it, change it out (I put the paper on top of the contac paper instead of under. Don't know why, just do). Sharp ones work a quadrillion times better than dull blades, plus they're cheap.

Craig Smolin wrote:BTW: Tim sounds like a dead ringer for "Randall" from Clerks...

Haven't heard that one before. Somebody once told me I sounded like James Woods. And that I look like Dirk Nowitski. Oh, and Shaggy, too (the stoner, not the singer). I guess it's a new one to add to the celebrity lookalike/soundalike list.

got a 14' long x 12" wide scrap piece of sign vinyl for $10. seems like a good deal, but I'll save it for when my knife skills are better

then went to an art shop and got the #16 xacto blades, and a cheap light box for $30 (decided the glass top was just to unwieldy).

went home, and proceeded to do some practice cutting ... the offset #16 blade is key. much better control, curves were easier, straight lines were easier, hell I might actually be able to get good at this.

and the light box made it easier to see everything I was cutting...

ended up selling a bunch of un-used discs to my local shop to recoup some costs (about $80 worth of mostly DX plastic).

total outlay was then around $40 minus a bunch of unused plastic. hope to have some work up within the next week or two...

Craig Smolin wrote:can you guys do another video or thread on "painting with dye"

would love some specifics on dye to acetone mixture, how to combine, best way to brush on, etc...

I also would love to see that aspect of the art, I've got some ideas in the mix. Also, I would like to know a little more about multi-colored discs. Lets say I attempt this dye:

After the black, would I dye red, then mask it off and do blue. Or would I dip black, then blue, then red and if so is the red going to darken the blue? And how do you keep the black from finding it's way into the other cuts on the Koi, etc?

Craig Smolin wrote:can you guys do another video or thread on "painting with dye"

would love some specifics on dye to acetone mixture, how to combine, best way to brush on, etc...

I thought about this a little, and a video seems a bit advanced for me on this topic. I only know what little I've done, but have seen way better stuff by other people that have experimented with painting methods more extensively.

I know Shaolintrained has seen it, but have any of you searched the ODSA thread for dyes by Macklin and Bishop? They have some insane painted dyes...

We are not like those other golfers. We throw our clubs and keep our balls where they belong. -Ol' Bob