>> For anyone who is interested in pricing and options, I picked
>> up a book a while back:
>>
>> Ford F100/F150 Pickup, Robert Ackerson, Veloce
>> ISBN 1 87 4105 83 9, 160 pages, $24.95
>>
>Thanks for the information Pat. I'll check the books out that you mention.
>
Well since no one else seems to have brought it up, I'll grab the Red Book
that I have at home, it lists all your base prices and option prices for
each year (through 75 or 6 I think) ... also lists part numbers for
distributors and carbs and stuff, can't remember everything it lists, but
its a great little book, also have the Mustang one if anyone needs info on
those (through 87 or 89 ...)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Hogan, Tom [SMTP:Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com]
> Sent:Sunday, February 07, 1999 7:11 PM
> To:'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject:FTE 61-79 - RE: Turn signal switch
>
> >
> >You Wrote
> >> Hello list. I broke the return cam on my turn signal switch today. I
> see
> >> that Mac's offers a repair kit for this. Has anybody used this? Is the
> job
> >>
> >> a PITA?? Should I just splurge and get the whole switch, wires and
> all??
> >>
> >> I'm just looking for some input before I order stuff.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help
> >>
> >> Drew Beatty
> >> dcbeatty rmi.net
> >>
> >I say:
> >I would try the cam first. The switch as I remember is around $80.00
> from
> >Ford. The cam should be much cheaper and worth a first try. I have
> >replaced the switch twice on mine (second time to install a cruise
> control)
> >and Its not too hard.
> >1. Disconnect the switch under the dash (Gray connector).
> >2. Remove red "wedge thingey" from gray connector.
> >3. Write down order of wires in connector (may want to do as step 2)
> >4. Remove wires from connector.
> >5. Pull steering wheel.
> >6. Remove screws holding switch.
> >7. Get a couple of strings 2 times longer than steering column.
> >8. Tie a slip knot in the middle of the string.
> > Like this: ---------------8---------------
> >9 Put the slip knot on one of the old wires that is in the column.
> >10 Pull wire and string through column from bottom.
> >11. When you get the knot to top of column, pull one end of string to top
> of
> >column. You should now have a string in the column one end sticking out
> of
> >bottom of column and the other end out the top with a knot in the middle.
>
> >12. If you want for insurance do this with a second string in case the
> >first one breaks.
> >13. Pull the rest of the old wires out of the column.
> >14. Put a wire from the new switch in the slip knot and pull it down
> through
> >the top of the column.
> >15. When you get it out the bottom, untie the string and pull it back to
> >the top of the column. (This is the reason for having the string long
> and
> >the knot in the middle)
> >16 Repeat for all wires and then install swich and reassemble connector.
> >
> >Good luck, If you decide to go with the cam let us know what happens.
> >Another source for the cam is the Autocrafters catalog.
> >
> >Tom H.
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

>If I remember rightly, it was FORD that made the disc kits for the trucks,
>it fits the 8.8's and 9" rear ends.....
>

Seems like there are Kits for the 'stangs all over the place, as long as
its for a 9" (not the more common 8.8 in the newer ones) it should work
right ? Might check the Ford Motorsports Catalog, your local auto supply
store should have one in the back if you ask ...

At 01:04 PM 2/7/99 , you wrote:
>This is a silly hypothetical question that I have no intention of doing,
>but sometimes my brain gets a little loopy. Lets say you have an NP203
>transfer case set in non-locked mode, a rear diff w/ 4.56 gears and the
>front has 3.50 gears. The transfer case should be able to
>differentiate the difference between the two ratios so that you could
>drive down a level paved road with no problems right? If the tranny is
>in it's 1:1 gear, what is the gear ratio that the engine would "see" on
>a level straight paved road? Of course once you put the T/C into locked
>mode you would be hosed on pavement.

Interesting question, personally I wouldn't try it because it is an open
differential just like your stock differentials (really neat lookin picture
in the haynes book if you know what to look for) ... at any rate it should
look like the average if you lock the hubs and what not, I think someone
mentioned that and it sounds about right, though I'm sure there's formulas
to figure it out exactly ...

Someone else mentioned it would be fine until your xfer case flew apart, I
think this is also true, those spider gears aren't designed to spin at high
speeds for long periods of time since they are only expected to be really
used during turning when there is a difference in speed between the front
and rear wheels ...

At any rate it would probably work for a short time, but I don't think I
would have tried it ...

>
> Well since no one else seems to have brought it up, I'll grab the Red Book
> that I have at home, it lists all your base prices and option prices for
> each year (through 75 or 6 I think) ... also lists part numbers for
> distributors and carbs and stuff, can't remember everything it lists,

>1. Am I missing a tensioner on the crank pulley?
>2. Does anybody know the part # (NAPA or such)?
>
>** I do not have pwr steering or air cond.**
>

Hmm, my mom's original 69 'stang has only one groove on each of the
pulley's and only one belt. I would guess this is the way yours is
supposed to be set up ... is there a chance that yours have been switched
out somewhere along the line (ie rebuilt/replaced motor?)

If you can get a complete circuit from the pulleys you have, but can't find
a belt, run a piece of string around the path you want it to follow, then
measure that piece of string, the parts store should be able to find one
within a half an inch for you (that's what the numbers are anyway)

Thanks for your message at 08:31 PM 2/5/99 -0800, Deacon. Your message was:
>From: Dennis Pearson
>
>>I have a 1962 stepside (sorry, I just can't seem to stop calling it that)
>>with a decent cab and very decent bed (no engine) sitting in my backyard.
>
>>What I've come around to (with the help of my crazy neighbor, Levi) is the
>>possibility of stripping the Marquis down to the frame and mounting the 62
>>pickup on the marquis frame.
>
>Is there a problem with the '62s frame? Couldn't you just drop the engine
>and trans in the truck? With the VIN on the frame there may be some
>registration problems. Just wondering. :)

No problem with the frame. Just looking for a smooth, low ride to balance
off my jacked-up faux 4WD looking Unibody. I can see the two of them,
side-by-side in my back yard now...

THE problem will be the VIN. Both vehicles are titled and legal (as far as
one can tell). I know where the VIN is supposed to be on the truck frame.
There is no plate in the glove box door like there should be, though. I'm
thinking I might have to license this as a 70 Mercury. Probably work until
the first time I get pulled over. The other option is to build it
completely street legal, have it inspected and re-titled...I have been
worrying about this. I'd hate to get too far into it and find out it is
completely outlaw....(or would I?)

Hi Everyone,
I wouldn't waste time with Lincoln rear ends, parts are not cheap and
the rear ends are very heavy. Ford Motorsport does sell a very nice
rear disk conversion that fits both the 9" and truck 8.8 rear. The
part number is: M-2300-G and the list price is $379.95. You can do
better on the price by getting it through any of the Motorsport dealers
that advertise in the Mustang magazines. This kit includes parking
brakes that are actually small drum brakes inside the rotors. Street
rod vendors also sell lots of different rear disk brake kits for the
9" rear end.

I'm sorry you have that much trouble with a homebuillt. Here in Nevada so
long as one of the vehicles you used had a clear title your ok. A guy I knew
in Reno put a 67 Bug on top of a mid 80's Toyota 4x4. It was titled as a 67
bug, because insurance is cheaper, and there is no smog regulations on a 67.
Really an interesting thing to see driving down the road.

Yup. We've got a Versailles rear end in our '70 F250 C/S. Of course,
it's no longer rated at 3/4 ton. It's just a hot rod now.
Surprisingly enough, when we went out to get it a couple of years ago,
we found two quite quickly here in So Cal. The wreckers know what
they've got and send none of them to the crusher. Could have picked
them both up for $250 apiece, complete with brake cables. In
hindsight, probably should have. It would have been nice to put into
the '56, but the money went for the Volare front end instead. That IS
going into the "Big Window". I think that's money well spent, as it's
a good (even if it's not a Fomoco) way of getting power steering and
disk brakes into your "Go Faster".

John (and everyone else),
I recently replaced the caulk in my gutters ('66 F250). I used 3-M
tan body caulk. The old caulk came out easily (it was petrified), I
then masked the outer rain gutter with duct tape and also masked the
roof adjacent to the gutter with duct tape. I then scraped out the old
caulk with a sharpened screwdriver, then wire brushed the bare metal.
I removed the duct tape and re-taped with masking tape, primed the metal
and painted it with some Krylon off white spray paint (matched the
original wimbledon white perfectly!). Came out very nice and the cab
no longer leaks during rainstorms. (Of course, your mileage may vary!)

Boon40 writes: >>What do i need to get to run my alt, PS, water pump, and A/C?
Thanks again.

I fabricated mine. L & L sells them, but they are awfully pricey. I've been led
to believe that on a F-150, that car type brackets would work, but I do not know
this for sure. Mine are F-250 and F-350, '77 & '79 respectfully(both 4X4). '79
is up and running. '77 is still under construction.

Here's some information I received from Stan at Ford Powertrain
www.fordpowertrain.com Might be good news for us M-block nuts. I had asked
him whether the headers for the 351C they are designing would fit a 400 in
4X4.

>The Cleveland and M series header flange is interchangeable, however the
>header must be built for the chasis in order to fit. F.P.A. is designing a
>shorty 3 51 Clev./M header that should fit most trucks due out in April.

I own a '68 F 100 2WD that is in very good shape. A friend of mine owns
a '77 F 150 4WD that is in not so great shape. Just out of curiosity,
would a '68 body mount on a '77 frame? They are both short wheel base
trucks, and the '68 would look soooo sweet with the conversion. Maybe
it's just wishful thinking.

Dang nice lookin' engine Mark,
Good work!
Question . . . I have a new edelbrock 625 on my FE and when
I get into the second set of barrels I get a lot of Carb noise
but not a lot of kick power wise. Do I need different jets/metering rods
or what? I'm just learning about these AFB's.

Start the truck up in the morning ... normal warm up cycle, engine runs a
barely in the normal range (normal for this truck the last few years) ...
drive it on the highway for about 10 miles, it gets all warm and toasty
inside and everyone's happy. Pull into town at the stoplight, warms a
touch, goes back to normal ... nothing outof the ordinary ... drive another
mile in town and it suddenly does an end run for the hot side ... stops
about half way up, sits ... then continues its run all the way to hot ...
sits there for a couple seconds (up to 10 or 15), then drops almost as
quickly as it went up back to the normal spot.... come up to another
stoplight ... sit at the light for a while ... everything is fine (normal),
as soon as I step on the gas the gauge starts to go up, then waits, then
runs to the end, sits and comes back ...

Anyone have any ideas ? Here were/are mine :

1) thermostat - replaced w/180 that works, no change
2) water pump - replaced with known good one, no change
3) radiator (old one leaky and smallish) - replaced with new one (over
sized for this motor) no change.

Ever hear of a bad sending unit doing this ? I dont' want to spend any
money on this motor because I have a 390 that should only be in the shop
for a week or so more (been saying that for a couple of weeks).

Thanks for your message at 02:07 PM 2/8/99 -0600, William S Hart. Your
message was:
>Okay, here's the situation:
>
>Start the truck up in the morning ... normal warm up cycle, engine runs a
>barely in the normal range (normal for this truck the last few years) ...
>drive it on the highway for about 10 miles, it gets all warm and toasty
>inside and everyone's happy. Pull into town at the stoplight, warms a
>touch, goes back to normal ... nothing outof the ordinary ... drive another
>mile in town and it suddenly does an end run for the hot side ... stops
>about half way up, sits ... then continues its run all the way to hot ...
>sits there for a couple seconds (up to 10 or 15), then drops almost as
>quickly as it went up back to the normal spot.... come up to another
>stoplight ... sit at the light for a while ... everything is fine (normal),
>as soon as I step on the gas the gauge starts to go up, then waits, then
>runs to the end, sits and comes back ...

During all this, is the engine actually getting hot? Does it ever actually
overheat? If not, it sure sounds like an electrical (sending unit or gauge)
IMHO.
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

>During all this, is the engine actually getting hot? Does it ever actually
>overheat? If not, it sure sounds like an electrical (sending unit or gauge)
>IMHO.

I don't really know if it is actually getting hot or not, it doesn't boil
over, and it doesn't hesitate like other cars I've been in that overheated,
but I don't really have any backup checking system. The other day I put my
hand on the radiator and it was all pretty warm, but it wasn't burning hot,
and it was evenly heated. I have a spare sending unit I think. But that's
about what I'm down to is thinking its a faulty gauge, just wondered if
anyone else had see this before ...

>My guess on this is that the alternator bracket is installed
>incorrectly, bent, or is the wrong bracket for the engine. If
>the grooves on the crankshaft pulley line up with the ones
>on the fan pulley, but not the alternator, then the ones on the
>fan pulley wont line up with the one on the alternator either.

the pulley setup I have is kinda hard to explain.here goes: o=alt
O=water pump ()=crank
looking at engine from front:

o O

()

driver side:(= edge of pulley, therefore: ((= one groove
(1( alt.

(1(2( water pump

(1( (2((3( crank

(exaggerating a bit for demonsration)
I took another look just now and the water pump pulley is a two groove
single piece pulley. the crank looks like it is three different pulleys
bolted together (the grooves have spaces in between them).

>Best thing to do is check the alternator mountings to see if any
>of the brackets, bolts, or other pieces are bent slightly, misaligning
>it. The one belt around 3 pulleys setup is the only logical setup
>for this, as the alternator is the only mobile part that can tension
>the belt, and the crankshaft pulley is the only one that supplies
>power to turn the others. On models with AC, there is an additional
>tensioner for the AC belt, but on all the Windsor block engines I
>have seen, there is no extra tensioner at all if there is no AC.
>

Been driving my 74 f350 about two weeks now and having the same sitution.

Trucks not acting like its hot or smells like it. But the guage shows half
way some time and 3/4 other times. Haven't figure it out.

At 02:37 PM 2/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>During all this, is the engine actually getting hot? Does it ever actually
>>overheat? If not, it sure sounds like an electrical (sending unit or gauge)
>>IMHO.
>
>I don't really know if it is actually getting hot or not, it doesn't boil
>over, and it doesn't hesitate like other cars I've been in that overheated,
>but I don't really have any backup checking system. The other day I put my
>hand on the radiator and it was all pretty warm, but it wasn't burning hot,
>and it was evenly heated. I have a spare sending unit I think. But that's
>about what I'm down to is thinking its a faulty gauge, just wondered if
>anyone else had see this before ...
>
>Thanks, I really appreciate it (this was driving me nuts)
>
>Bill
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

Michael Masse writes: >>The transfer case should be able to
differentiate the difference between the two ratios so that you could
drive down a level paved road with no problems right? If the tranny is
in it's 1:1 gear, what is the gear ratio that the engine would "see" on
a level straight paved road?

Yes, but why on earth would you want something you could not lock the two diff's
together for???
If you lock them together, you will stay there or break something or both.

Add the two ratios together and divide by two - Lets see 4.56 + 3.5 = 8.06/2 =
4.03 effective final drive.

> I own a '68 F 100 2WD that is in very good shape. A friend of mine owns
> a '77 F 150 4WD that is in not so great shape. Just out of curiosity,
> would a '68 body mount on a '77 frame? They are both short wheel base
> trucks, and the '68 would look soooo sweet with the conversion. Maybe
> it's just wishful thinking.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brandon Neighbors

The cab will mount up just fine. It's when you get to the bed that you
will have trouble. The frame on the 77 gets wider in the back and I
believe that the wheel base also gets longer. If the 77 has the flairside
bed you could get away with it really easy. There are lots of little
things you can do to make it work. Let us know if you are really
interested in doing it and we will let you know.

> Yes, but why on earth would you want something you could not lock the two diff's
> together for???
> If you lock them together, you will stay there or break something or both.

Actually, I have a very good suggestion as to why, and me having a 203
laying around has really got me thinking- A lot of truck pullers (ie-
remember Sleddog) like to run mismatched differentials so that the
front axle will pull harder than the rear. In otherwords, running a
taller ratio in the front and shorter in the back. I pondered this
idea when I welded my front diff into one big slab of toxic truck
mung. True, I still couldn't justify running it on the road, but the
pulling performance increase and improved handling characteristics in
the mud would be a considerable improvement from what I have seen. My
'70 F-100 4x4 (with single speed transfer, not fulltime) has a
*factory* mismatch of a 4.09 trac lock in the rear and a 3.50 in the
front! 8-) It was bought to drive in the mountains of Montana!

I saw a '67 F100 Camper Special in my home town the other day and I got to
thinking that it was my belief that they only made F250 and up camper specials.
Is this true? I looked at the rear springs and there was an extra leaf there.
Additionally the truck had a bed light, dual tanks, and "west coast" mirrors. I
suppose that they could have adorned the body with incorrect trim pieces and I'm
beginning to think this is the case.

>I saw a '67 F100 Camper Special in my home town the other day and I got to
>thinking that it was my belief that they only made F250 and up camper
specials.
>Is this true? I looked at the rear springs and there was an extra leaf there.
>Additionally the truck had a bed light, dual tanks, and "west coast"
>mirrors. I
>suppose that they could have adorned the body with incorrect trim pieces and
>I'm
>beginning to think this is the case.
>
>Any comments are much appreciated.
>
My grandfather has a 70 F100 Camper Special ... the mirrors like you're
talking about, along with front mount spare tire, the dual tank thing I
don't know, seems like it is a really heavy duty rear bumper, seems like a
floating rear axle too, not positive on that though ...

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> There's also a company called TSM out of CO that makes conversion kits.
> 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers also sells kits by a company called SSB (Stainless
> Steel Brakes).
>

The TSM kit uses Ch*bbie parts. Mine works well, but if I could have
had ford stuff for dana 60 rear, I would have got it (not sure on that
drum brake emerg thing though). The caddy rear calipers used with TSM
kit do not have the little brake drums, they are more like mustang rear
disks. I've heard GM rear calipers are problamatic with the emerg brake
setup, but I've had no problems so far. I got rid of my rear drums,
because I was filling them with goup every time I went 4-wheelin and
then eating up a set of shoes in a matter of miles. Wonder if the little
drum setup would be just as bad. At least the calipers must be cheap
with no built in emerg setup.

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> Here's some information I received from Stan at Ford Powertrain
> www.fordpowertrain.com Might be good news for us M-block nuts. I had asked
> him whether the headers for the 351C they are designing would fit a 400 in
> 4X4.
>
> >The Cleveland and M series header flange is interchangeable, however the
> >header must be built for the chasis in order to fit. F.P.A. is designing a
> >shorty 3 51 Clev./M header that should fit most trucks due out in April.
>

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> Here's some information I received from Stan at Ford Powertrain
> www.fordpowertrain.com Might be good news for us M-block nuts. I had asked
> him whether the headers for the 351C they are designing would fit a 400 in
> 4X4.
>
> >The Cleveland and M series header flange is interchangeable, however the
> >header must be built for the chasis in order to fit. F.P.A. is designing a
> >shorty 3 51 Clev./M header that should fit most trucks due out in April.
>

I had questions about mine. I have a '68 F100 and the guage would be fine
then run to the hot side then come back to normal. I wound up putting a
mechanical guage on to check it with and my coolant was fine. I would
notice a small variation in the temp and the original temp guage would peg
hot. I'm gonna replace the IVR and that should fix the problem. But if
you're really concerned I would put a mechanical guage on it and see what
it's really doing before some thing warps or breaks.

>Bill
>
>Been driving my 74 f350 about two weeks now and having the same sitution.
>
>Trucks not acting like its hot or smells like it. But the guage shows half
>way some time and 3/4 other times. Haven't figure it out.
>
>
>
>
>At 02:37 PM 2/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>>During all this, is the engine actually getting hot? Does it ever
actually
>>>overheat? If not, it sure sounds like an electrical (sending unit or
gauge)
>>>IMHO.
>>
>>I don't really know if it is actually getting hot or not, it doesn't boil
>>over, and it doesn't hesitate like other cars I've been in that
overheated,
>>but I don't really have any backup checking system. The other day I put
my
>>hand on the radiator and it was all pretty warm, but it wasn't burning
hot,
>>and it was evenly heated. I have a spare sending unit I think. But
that's
>>about what I'm down to is thinking its a faulty gauge, just wondered if
>>anyone else had see this before ...
>>
>>Thanks, I really appreciate it (this was driving me nuts)
>>
>>Bill
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

Mark,
Wow, nice truck, nice engine, nice page too!
I never get results like that from my Q-tips.
Maybe if I chucked 'em up in a drill huh?
Yep, keep the stock color on that truck. When
I first got mine (Lunar green) my buddies all
told me it was ugly, but I liked it anyway. Now
they all think it's cool. Just takes time.
Thanks for letting us look,

I have a 73 F100 Custom and was wondering what options the XLT or Ranger
packages included. I'm contemplating upgrading mine to XLT or Ranger
but make it seem original, but I need to see what is involved first.
Thanks for your help!

I knew mud racers did but I hadn't heard about pullers. Actually I
understood that mudders put the numerically lower ratio in the front to spin
the front tires faster and provide better control to the steering. Never
seen a "stock" mismatch with that much difference in the ratios before.

>Actually, I have a very good suggestion as to why, and me having a 203
>laying around has really got me thinking- A lot of truck pullers (ie-
>remember Sleddog) like to run mismatched differentials so that the
>front axle will pull harder than the rear. In otherwords, running a
>taller ratio in the front and shorter in the back. I pondered this
>idea when I welded my front diff into one big slab of toxic truck
>mung. True, I still couldn't justify running it on the road, but the
>pulling performance increase and improved handling characteristics in
>the mud would be a considerable improvement from what I have seen. My
>'70 F-100 4x4 (with single speed transfer, not fulltime) has a
>*factory* mismatch of a 4.09 trac lock in the rear and a 3.50 in the
>front! 8-) It was bought to drive in the mountains of Montana!

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> There's also a company called TSM out of CO that makes conversion kits.
> 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers also sells kits by a company called SSB (Stainless
> Steel Brakes).
>

The TSM kit uses Ch*bbie parts. Mine works well, but if I could have
had ford stuff for dana 60 rear, I would have got it (not sure on that
drum brake emerg thing though). The caddy rear calipers used with TSM
kit do not have the little brake drums, they are more like mustang rear
disks. I've heard GM rear calipers are problamatic with the emerg brake
setup, but I've had no problems so far. I got rid of my rear drums,
because I was filling them with goup every time I went 4-wheelin and
then eating up a set of shoes in a matter of miles. Wonder if the little
drum setup would be just as bad. At least the calipers must be cheap
with no built in emerg setup.

Thanks for your message at 01:03 PM 2/8/99 -0500, am14 daimlerchrysler.com.
Your message was:
>Dennis Pearson writes: >>
>My question is "Would this project fall under the category of the FTE
>content code?" I mean, is what I will be building still going to be a Ford
>truck?
>
>I'm not the keeper of the FTE list, but in my opinion it will be a very
smoothe
>riding Ford Truck.
Well, I'm going to start tearing the body off the Marquis, no matter what.
This should be fun.

Hello all!
I'm a long time lurker and have a problem I think only you folks can help me
with. I bought a 76 f250 4x4 from my father 11 years ago. At that time
just about all the power assist components were shot. (gear box, control
valve, cylinder) were shot. I bought replacement parts from a local P#P
B#y's and they have a life time warrantee. The parts are now leaking again
and need to be replaced. Their catalog show's replacement part's for
everything but the gear box. However, when they went to order them, the
supply house say's these item's are no longer available. It seems that if I
can not come up with a source for these item's I'm just out of luck!! Does
any one know of a source for these item's? ( so maybe I can pass it on to
them) If I just have to eat these parts, my next post will be how to
convert to the intergal power steering box. I'm on the digest mode so if
any one want's to Email me direct it's richt mindspring.com. I really
apreciate any and all help on this matter.
TIA
Rich Thomas

I can definatly relate to this, the place that rebuilt my motor didn't even
clean out the rocker arm shafts. It.... Well, I'll put it this way, I
wasn't happy. Pay 2k for a stock, balanced rebuild of an FE and they didn't
even clean out the rockers... not to mension the motor ran for 5 minutes and
quit. That bugged me too, took a month to solve that...

Ken Schneider
68 F100 360-C6-3.25.

>An old saying that applies directly to engine building is:
>
> CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS!!
>
>This applies throughout the assembly process, too, not just the block
>prep.

I agree, you should check your u-joints. I experienced this prob just
the other day, I had broken one of the bolts that hold the front
u-joint, and the other three were working themselves out. This happend
when i hit a whoop-de-doo (way) too hard, oops. 8-)
AZ Eric
'79 Bronco Custom

In april i will be going to the country thunder concert at Queen Creek
Arizona. I was wonderin if anyone has been there and if there is any
good four wheelin there. Is anyone on this list goin? I would not mind
meeting a few of you if it is possible. 8-)
AZ Eric
'79 Bronco custom

>I've got a '66 F100 I've had for 2 years and just put it on the road to
>discover that there is a bad vibration while engaging the clutch in all 3
>gears (3 on the tree). It has been of the raod for 10 years. I have changed
>the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bushing. That helped
>considerably. But there is still a vibration. Any help at all would be
>appreciated.
>1966 F100
>transplanted 360 for 352
>3 on the tree.

I have received a number of requests to expand the list
I'm creating to include other years, so here's what I'll do:

I think it's fair to say that 1961-1967 year ford trucks are
going to have a lot of the same features/problems/etc.

I plan on creating a list of all who respond and then
distributing a copy to each.

Thanks for helping out.

Dan

p.s. those that have responded already need not respond again.

- ---Daniel Koster wrote:
>
>
> ---stevegoins wrote:
> >
> > I have been reading this list for a few weeks now and really
> enjoy,have also
> > learned a lot. Ihave a 63 F-100 ...

To All:

> How about a list of all the 63 owners?
>
> We all seem to have the same questions and maybe we could get
> each other's emails to ask specific questions w/o tying up the
> list.
>
> I would benefit greatly from the wisdom of the 'elders'.
>
> Here's my email to start the list off:
>
> Daniel Koster
> rumpus1 yahoo.com
>
>
> Thanks to all who post.
>
>
>
> p.s. my 63 is the rusty lookin' one posted in the pictorial

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