The Swan is good an example of how to do a gastropub properly - that is, they don't shout about it. No tablecloths, eating only areas, or reserved signs here - just a pleasant, wood-panelled pub which happens to make a deal about its good food. Apart from the small kitchen hatch off to one side, this is a normal, chilled-out local where we were easily able to enjoy ourselves with one of their well-kept ales; we even spied a drinking bowl by the door indicating dogs were welcome. Its position on a back street between South Acton and Chiswick means it's predominantly one for the locals, but it also attracts fans from further afield too. A gastropub which places as much emphasis on the 'pub' as the 'gastro' has to be applauded and even if the food is a little expensive, this is still a good quality pub worth stopping for.

One word of warning - I tried to visit yesterday, but at 2.00pm on a sunny afternoon the place was closed. A passer-by suggested it would be open at 5.00pm. Stupidly I didn't ask whether this was a permanent arrangement, or just a one-off.

From South Action train station, exit south onto Kingswood Road and take the forth on the left (Antrobus Road - great name) and the pub should be at the end. From Chiswick Park tube, exit left onto Acton Lane and second on the left is Evershed Walk - the pub will be on the left towards the end.