I've been working on this group of cupcakes for a few weeks now, my son kept coming up with new ideas for topping the cupcakes but I think he's finally run out (maybe)! His crochet food collection has grown quite a bit this winter/spring! I've written the cupcake and cherry patterns here but the patterns for the strawberry, carrot & lemon/lime wedge are in separate posts for the sake of this post not running on forever and ever.

Important Notes:
-Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
-All joins are made with a sl st.
-Sc2tog counts as one sc.
-Your first stitch of each row will always be worked in the same space as your ch 1 or ch 2.
-This pattern uses the Magic Circle, if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn with my quick video here: https://youtu.be/64O9WVJucFA

Optional: If you would like your cupcake to stand up perfectly, trace the circle you've made onto a piece of cardboard. Cut out the cardboard circle slightly smaller than the traced circle and then place the piece of cardboard into the bottom of the cupcake. The cupcake will stand without the cardboard bottom but this makes for a very nice flat bottom.

Now is a good time to secure your beginning end.
If you want a stem on your cherry pull this end through to the right side of the cherry after securing it. Tie a knot as close as you can to the cherry and tie another knot about an inch or two away from the cherry. Trim.

Important Notes:
-All joins are made with a sl st.
-Your first stitch is always worked in the same space as the ch 1.
-Sc2tog counts as one sc.
-This pattern uses the Magic Circle, if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn with my quick video here: https://youtu.be/64O9WVJucFA

Important Notes:
-All joins are made with a sl st.
-Your first stitch is always worked in the same space as the ch 1.
-Sc2tog counts as 1 sc.
-Gauge is not important for this pattern just be sure to work your stitches tight so your stuffing doesn't show through.

Row 1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, 3 sc in last.

Rotate piece to the right so you can work on the opposite side of the foundation chain.

Now, the final step is adding the little green stems. Cut 3-5 strands of green yarn about 4" in length, then use your needle to slip each piece through the top of the strawberry. Tie each piece on with a knot, knot a 2nd time to secure yarn. Trim to about an inch in length.

This pattern was originally written as a topper for a cupcake, they compliment the cupcake well!

Important Notes:
-All joins are made with a sl st.
-Your first stitch is always worked in the same space as the ch 1.
-Stitches listed between the following brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that need to be worked into the same space.
-This pattern uses the Magic Circle, if you do not know how to make a magic circle you can learn with my quick video here: https://youtu.be/64O9WVJucFA

Now holding together the lighter colored piece to the peel with the wrong sides facing each other, use your needle to sew the edges of the pieces together. I chose to only sew through one loop on the light side, this is optional. Stuff as you go but do not over stuff.

Next, use the white long end to create the different sections of the lemon/lime.
Sew in ends.

This pattern was originally written as a topper for a cupcake, they compliment the cupcake well!

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

I've been trying to use up lots of odds & ends from my yarn collection and granny squares are just perfect for that! I made a fun little flipogram a couple weeks ago on Instagram for a granny square and thought I would write up a tutorial here. For my squares I am using a size J hook & worsted weight yarn (red heart with love is my favorite for this project) but you can use any yarn for this project, just adjust your hook size to the recommended hook size on your yarn label.

Skill Level: Beginner/Easy

Finished Size: 9" x 9"

Supplies:Worsted Weight Yarn, approx. 100 yd. per 9 row squareSize J (6.0 mm) Crochet HookTapestry NeedleScissorsAbbreviations (US Terms):Ch - ChainDc -Double CrochetSk - SkipSl st - Slip StitchSp - SpaceGauge: Each dc cluster should measure approx. 3/4"Important Notes:-3 dc = dc cluster-All joins are made with a sl st.-These brackets [ ] indicate a group of stitches that all need to be worked in the same space.-The beginning Ch 2 of each row counts as a dc.-This pattern uses the magic circle, you can find a short tutorial here if you do not already know how to make a magic circle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64O9WVJucFA

Now, you can continue on for as many rows as you would like, working
[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in each corner space & working 3 dc between each dc clusters.

You can even continue on to blanket size! I've made many blankets with a simple granny square for the base. For a super easy edge just sc around in each dc and work [3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc] into each corner space!

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

My four boys have always been big Nerf fans and last weekend my youngest came to me wanting something to hold his ammo, he described exactly what he wanted and this was our results! The tutorial as written is in his size but you can easily adjust the beginning chain to make this belt slightly larger. Writing this out was no easy task but I hope I've explained it well enough for you to understand, I suggest scrolling through the photos before starting to give you an idea of the construction of the belt.

For my example I used Hobby Lobby's I Love this Yarn for the Camo portion but I've suggested Red Heart Super Saver because it's more readily available. Either will work just fine. My little guy and I would love to see your finished Ammo Belts, if you would like to share feel free to upload to my facebook page here: www.facebook.com/byjennidesigns or add to your Ravelry projects here: Ammo Shoulder Belt

Ch 140, join.
Place chain over child's head, placing one side of the chain on the shoulder and the other side of the chain should be at about the child's hip. The chain should not be tight against their body, you want it to be slightly loose.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in each around. Join.Row 2-5: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next and in each around.

Fasten off after row 5.
Join with camo yarn in the same space as you fastened off in.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next and in each around.

Fasten off.

Bullet Pocket

Now, place the belt on your child again with row 6 closest to the neck and with the yarn ends on the child's shoulder (as shown below). Then you need to mark where you want your bullets to go, I marked off a total of 48 stitches.

After marking your stitches, you can remove the belt from the child.

Using camo yarn:

Quick note: Before joining in the next row leave a long end for sewing later.

Row 7: In FLO: Join with a sl st in the space you marked closest to the fasten off. Sc in each across until you reach your 2nd stitch marker.

After row 13, you need to sl st down the side of the pocket you just made.

Ch 1, sc in the next open space on the belt portion.

Sc in next and in each around. Join to the first sc you made on the belt and fasten off leaving a long end.

Use the ends on the sides of the pocket you created to sew the sides of the pocket down to the belt. Sew in your ends.

Next, decide if you want to sew each bullet space or if you want to sl st around every other bullet to create the spaces. Below you can see how I slip stitched around every other bullet.

To sl st, I first placed a bullet into the pocket all the way to the right then I joined just to the left of the bullet, started to sl st down, placed the 2nd bullet in the pocket then worked my way around the bottom and up the side then fastened off. Repeat to end. Our belt ended up fitting 11 bullets.