Searching for delicious Chinese fast food

At a distance, Chinese fast food is a great guilty pleasure. For about $5, you can get a big foam box absolutely bloated with fried rice, chow mein and your choice of crispy, delicious proteins.

But when you zoom in, the allure often turns out to be illusory. Sauces have congealed into sticky sheaths, meats are of the mysterious variety and any deep-fried crunch that once existed has given way to warmed-over squishiness.

Long lines are the first good sign, as they result in rapid replenishment of the warming-tray foodstuffs and prevent anything from sitting out too long. Carbs are perfectly respectable; fried rice boasts a balanced moisture level, and chow mein noodles, while a bit gummy, are not overwhelmed with seasoning and include vegetables that retain a slight snap.

As for meats, they're most impressive for what they don't do wrong. Sugary sauce is nowhere to be found on the house special chicken, which has a pleasant hint of heat from abundant jalapenos.

Viscous sauce is also refreshingly absent from barbecued pork that in other venues appears to offer more food coloring than food.

Quality is solid for this price point; both meats are tender, and the pork presents just the right amount of fat.

There's nothing to criticize about the portions – a two-item combo ($5.69) is weighty enough to double as a dumbbell, and it easily provides for one dinner and then the requisite encore dinner 30 minutes later. As with all Chinese fast food, you might feel guilty about the calories, but nothing about Lucky's flavors is going to cause regrets.

User Agreement

Keep it civil and stay on topic. No profanity, vulgarity, racial
slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about
tragedies will be blocked. By posting your comment, you agree to
allow Orange County Register Communications, Inc. the right to
republish your name and comment in additional Register publications
without any notification or payment.