On Cocktails: Ice cider with a twist

Mar. 8, 2012

Written by

Jake Lahne

Living in Vermont for more than a year has, to my regret, begun to dull some of the excitement I used to feel going to the liquor store. While the Department of Liquor Control does a good job of keeping the basics in stock and more-or-less affordable, I don’t ever expect to see something I’ve wanted for a really long time. New spirits and fortified wines (which are unfairly lumped together by Vermont’s liquor control board) are just something I don’t expect to run into in my daily life. I have to special-order them online, and then the element of surprise is a little bit lost.

Imagine my delight, then, to hear about Orleans, a new dry, ice-cider aperitif from Eden Ice Cider. Orleans isn’t technically a spirit; its hefty 15.5 percent alcohol is the result of the fermentation to dryness of ice-concentrated Vermont ice cider. Like vermouth or quinquina, however, Orleans is infused with herbs — in this case basil and anise hyssop — that transform it from an ordinary drink into an ideal candidate for cocktails.

Almost immediately after hearing about Orleans, I started to fret about its fairly limited initial production. Initially, about 100 cases were made, so it’s worth picking up when you see it, which is exactly what I did when I encountered it at City Market in downtown Burlington. Of course I snatched up the last bottle, muttering endearments to it, and raced home to try it.

Unlike other ice ciders I’ve tried, Orleans has very little sweetness. It has a nose of apples and anise, and an initial taste of apple skin quickly fades into basil and strong, malic acidity. The finish is long and the herbs are very prominent, especially the meatiness of the basil and the tickle of licorice from the hyssop. It’s a really fascinating wine, and clearly well-suited to cocktails. So far I’ve seen it compared most frequently to Lillet, but I think it has more in common with a richer dry vermouth. Lillet has strong notes of citrus, while Orleans, like dry vermouth, is almost savory.

Interestingly — and unlike the other ice ciders I’ve tried — Orleans seems to have no affinity for wood-aged liquors in mixed drinks. Brandy, whiskey, and aged tequilas and mezcals were all complete failures. Rather, white spirits, like gin and vodka, seemed to bring out the apple and savory-herb notes of Orleans without clashing. I had a lot of success with a drink that used horseradish-infused vodka and Orleans to make a nouveau version of Ian Fleming’s classic Vesper, but it seemed a little gimmicky. Finally, I settled on a version of the venerable Negroni that not only tolerated the Orleans, but positively sang with it.

Orleans can be found at liquor and wine stores throughout Vermont. In Burlington, in addition to City Market, Dedalus Wine on Battery St can order it on request. Aperol is a bright orange cousin of Campari, and can be bought at most Vermont liquor outlets.

Add the first three ingredients to a mixing glass, and stir well with ice until the glass frosts. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with the lemon twist.

Jake Lahne is a second-year Ph.D. student researching sensory perception and artisan food at the University of Vermont. In his past life, he worked for Slow Food, cooked professionally and sold cheese. He also blogs about booze at Liquor is Quicker.