Simplify Your Steering: Bushings to Bearings

Trading bushings for bearings in '53-'62 Corvettes

Compared to the steering assemblies the Corvette has been using over the past few generations, the straight-axle front suspension is extremely simplistic. The initial design was for a passenger car, and that is exactly how it worked under the Corvette. There are options available to the early Corvette owner who wishes to update his or her Corvette's suspension to an independent front system, but if you wish to keep your Corvette basically stock but make it more enjoyable to drive, Stainless Steel Brakes has you covered as well. The company provides an upgraded kingpin package that uses roller bearings instead of the original bushings. The bearings will last longer and make steering easier due to the reduced friction of the bearings. The Corvette Clinic was installing kingpins in a '58 Corvette, and we went along to show our readers what it takes to install bearings where bushings once resided.

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Simplify Your Steering: Bushings to Bearings

1. (above and right) The original suspension used bushings pressed into thespindle, where the new kit uses two roller bearings on top and bottom ofthe spindle to help support the spindle and reduce friction when thesteering is turned.

2. The new kingpin (left) is longer and has different diametersthan the original.

3. (next two photos) Clean up all the existing parts before trying to install anyof the parts from the kit. It will produce much better results, and youwon't have to worry about dirt getting in the bearings. Press thebearings into the upper portion of the spindle. Because the kingpinisn't uniform in diameter, you can't install the lower bearings into thespindle at this time.

4. (next two photos) The bearing between the spindle and knuckle is installed withthe lip facing the knuckle, and then the kingpin is slid into place fromthe bottom. Be careful. The groove for centering the kingpin is not atan equal distance from the ends. The longer side should go to the bottomset of spindle bearings. There are shims supplied with the kit ifnecessary; our set did not require any.

5. (next three photos) Install the centering pin to keep the kingpin in place. Thecentering pin doesn't have a head on the end and, when we tightened thenut, the centering pin pulled through. Stainless Steel Brakes has seenthis happen on a few worn knuckles, and sent us a knurled centering pinthat would not pull out.

6. (next two photos) Now press the bearings in from the bottom of the spindle. Besure to start the bearing into the bore squarely or you could damage thebearing. There is a tool supplied in the kit to press the bearings overthe kingpin, but be careful not to press the outer bearing into contactwith the inner bearing. As with the upper bearings, there should be somedistance between the two bearings.

7. To seal the ends of the kingpin, the kit comes with O-ringsand caps. Install the O-ring and then tighten down the cap with thegrease fitting supplied in the kit.

8. (next two photos) To plug the original grease fitting holes, the kit containsAllen screws to put into the holes. Don't run them in until they contactthe bearing because they could distort it. Screw them in just so theyseal the hole.

9. Put some grease into the bearings, and you're ready to installthe rebuilt spindles. We're only showing how to assemble the kingpinsusing this kit, but to cover the entire installation, see "SteerableStraight-Axle" in our Oct. '01 issue. Back issues are available bycalling (800) 429-0106.

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