Thanx for the pics!!! I can't wait
..out of nowhere I received my tracking # earlier... Turns out it was shipped out yesterday and will be here tomorrow...

Ships from California directly from benq when you order from visual apex BTW...

Looks like I will have everything by Friday except the sainsonic glasses. Ordered those same time...received a useless tracking number that just now became an actual tracking number and it states it is "initiated" ...they haven't even been picked up / dropped off at the carrier...

Elix...dark scenes are great. Awesome detail. The image is just so rich and sharp that you forget its not a plasma! The quality on this thing looks like the image is coming from a very expensive projector.

Screen shots while nice but really don't tell the story. The camera does internal processing and often adjusts the brightness of the picture.

The only way is to do it is to calibrate each projector and compare them in the same room.

Black level, sharpness, and other terms are relative to the situation. Having said this, I believe that nearly any new projector buyer and many who have owned projectors for a long time will be very happy with the W1070.

I own a JVC Rs45 which is nearly 3 times the price. It is a great projector with the best blacks out there. I bought the W1070 because of the 3D ghosting and because of the brightness. So far I have tried this projector for both 2D and 3D and I am amazed at the picture quality for the price. It does not have the blacks of the RS45 on 2D but it is every bit as sharp and may even be a little sharper when I compare the two. Properly adjusted the colors and brightness. are great. In 3D it is a pleasure to use without ghosting of any kind. I am also sure because of DLP technology it will be great for gaming. The biggest issue for some will be seeing the RBE. I am lucky in that it does not bother me. The other factor is that the blub, costs about $200 and one can get DLP 144K 3D glasses for about $25 each. Regarding 3D pop that some are wondering about. It is great and I have tried some of the reference films that how depth and pop including the import "A Turtle's Tale, Sammy's Adventure".
I am wondering if those who complained about 3D depth and pop had their glasses adjusted properly. Most DLP glasses have an adjustment for L/R reversal and if it is not set correctly there will be little or no pop.

If you want the black level to match the 5020, with its dynamic iris enabled at some reasonable setting, you would probably need a ND filter that only passes perhaps 10% of the light. This would cut the overall brightness, including white levels by this same amount thus producing a projector (w/ ND filter combo) with less than 200 lumens of output. A ND filter is not a substitute for a good dynamic iris since the DI keeps bright scenes bright but makes dark scenes darker. The native contrast ratio of the UB series of Epson projectors is probably equal, or a little better to that of the W1070, but the Espon's DI makes the difference. That being said, using a DI to boost the CR and lower the black level on dark scenes is still not the equal to having the very high native CR of the JVC projectors. I own both an earlier model in the Epson UB series as well as a JVC projector (also one DLP).. Even with these observations, the W1070 appears to be great little projector for a very modest price.

When I first turned on W1070, reading was 60 ftL on 90" screen, 40 ftL from furthest throw , but I do not know if I did it correctly. ND filter can bring down brightness to an acceptable level, which should improve both bright and dark scenes as I saw on my previous BenQ W7000.
I am new to projectors so any input would be helpful.

Firmware changes are common on new products and this is not a reason to return you projector unless there is a problem. It would be nice to let the individual do the upgrade themselves but Benq probably feels that because of the use of special serial cables it might be difficult for some users to do it. Hopefully this will change

This is a great projector for the price for both 2D and 3D

Just spoke to BENQ Poland about the W1070. They want to charge approx. $38 service fee + postage both ways for FW upgrade (1.02 -> 1.04). A m a z i n g.
That's awful Customer experience management...

When I first turned on W1070, reading was 60 ftL on 90" screen, 40 ftL from furthest throw , but I do not know if I did it correctly. ND filter can bring down brightness to an acceptable level, which should improve both bright and dark scenes as I saw on my previous BenQ W7000.
I am new to projectors so any input would be helpful.

If putting the projector into its best color mode and using the low lamp setting is still producing too bright an image, the ND filters certainly become a reasonable means to drop the light output to a more reasonable level. A ND filter will not improve the constrast ratio as it drops both the black and white levels by the same amount.

I have attached an Excel file that provides a easy means to convert your lux measurements (i.e., using a lux/light meter). Below is text I posted in another thread a couple of years ago:

Measuring Projector Lumens Output - If you want to measure the projector's lumen output the best measurement tool is a lux light meter. With such a lux meter the measurement is performed by placing the meter's light sensor directly in front of the projection screen with the sensor aimed back toward the projector. The lux reading can easily be converted in lumens (more on that below) and there are two measurement approaches commonly used. A projector's peak lumens output is typically based on a single measurement from directly in front of the center of the screen. A projector's ANSI lumens is based on the average of 9 individual measurements made by dividing the screen into a 3 x 3 grid then making a measurement at the center of each of the 9 rectangles of the grid. I have attached a zip file that contains an small Excel spreadsheet that makes it easy to calculate the projector's lumens (either peak lumens using the center of screen measurement location or the ANSI lumens based on 9 meaurement points). Many hobbyist calibrators are using the AEMC CA813 light meter (price is under $180 from most sources). I tested a very low cost (i.e., less than $40) digital lux meter (Mastech LX1330B) that, at least for the sample I tested, gave similar results.

Just spoke to BENQ Poland about the W1070. They want to charge approx. $38 service fee + postage both ways for FW upgrade (1.02 -> 1.04). A m a z i n g.
That's awful Customer experience management...

I would suggest that you speak to an upper level support person. That is unacceptable for a new product that required an update. I would suggest that you call back and state that you have a fan and flicker issue and you heard that the update fixes these problems. They would be required to do the update in this case. In the US Benq will do the update at no charge. This is just another reason to allow customers to do their own updates. It is not that hard when one has the right cables.

Hopefully someone who has access to the firmware will leak it with the instructions on how to do the update.

If putting the projector into its best color mode and using the low lamp setting is still producing too bright an image, the ND filters certainly become a reasonable means to drop the light output to a more reasonable level. A ND filter will not improve the constrast ratio as it drops both the black and white levels by the same amount.

I have attached an Excel file that provides a easy means to convert your lux measurements (i.e., using a lux/light meter). Below is text I posted in another thread a couple of years ago:

Measuring Projector Lumens Output - If you want to measure the projector's lumen output the best measurement tool is a lux light meter. With such a lux meter the measurement is performed by placing the meter's light sensor directly in front of the projection screen with the sensor aimed back toward the projector. The lux reading can easily be converted in lumens (more on that below) and there are two measurement approaches commonly used. A projector's peak lumens output is typically based on a single measurement from directly in front of the center of the screen. A projector's ANSI lumens is based on the average of 9 individual measurements made by dividing the screen into a 3 x 3 grid then making a measurement at the center of each of the 9 rectangles of the grid. I have attached a zip file that contains an small Excel spreadsheet that makes it easy to calculate the projector's lumens (either peak lumens using the center of screen measurement location or the ANSI lumens based on 9 meaurement points). Many hobbyist calibrators are using the AEMC CA813 light meter (price is under $180 from most sources). I tested a very low cost (i.e., less than $40) digital lux meter (Mastech LX1330B) that, at least for the sample I tested, gave similar results.

Some people recommend placing projectors away from the screen to improve black level and contrast. Doesnt ND filters do the same thing? Because when I used ND filter on W7000, picture became much crisper and I thought contrast was improved.

Some people recommend placing projectors away from the screen to improve black level and contrast. Doesnt ND filters do the same thing? Because when I used ND filter on W7000, picture became much crisper and I thought contrast was improved.

Increasing the throw distance reduces internal reflections in the projector optics... some believe a contrast improvement is also gained by limiting the projected light to the center (sweet spot) of the lens as well (makes sense from a lens MTF perspective), which is why contrast improves when a static iris is closed down as well. Not the same thing as just cutting the brightness with a filter.

The room has light beige walls and a pure white ceiling. Not a bat cave, but the single window is totally blacked out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezerpl

Could you please publish your settings ? Did you calibrate ?

All I did so far is just adjust the lamp mode to ECO SAVER, turned sharpness down to 0, and change the picture mode to Cinema. I haven't calibrated it yet, but the image is just so good out of the box, that I really don't see a point right now. Just enjoying it!

The biggest problem with the BenQ W1070 is that it is manufactured by BenQ. Quality control on the W7000 has proved to be abysmal. Build quality is poor at best; note the looseness of the focus ring as an example, or the lack of attention to the light bleed and optics path. The saying you get what you pay for applies here.

Having said that, I ordered one today for 3D and sports viewing to complement my RS4810. YMMV.

The room has light beige walls and a pure white ceiling. Not a bat cave, but the single window is totally blacked out.
All I did so far is just adjust the lamp mode to ECO SAVER, turned sharpness down to 0, and change the picture mode to Cinema. I haven't calibrated it yet, but the image is just so good out of the box, that I really don't see a point right now. Just enjoying it!

Not sure if you covered this earlier...how is your PJ placed celing or shelf? If ceiling, did use a extension pole? My setup is going to be tricky....I have 9ft ceilings and the top of my screen is 18" from the ceiling. The benq calculator said i'm going to need to drop the pole 12" from the celing. Just trying to avoid hot spotting this time (current pj viewsonic 8200 no lens shift) around..

This pj is dlp link only. Are those glasses dlp link compatible? I have them too also with an rs40.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwestley

Screen shots while nice but really don't tell the story. The camera does internal processing and often adjusts the brightness of the picture.

The only way is to do it is to calibrate each projector and compare them in the same room.

Black level, sharpness, and other terms are relative to the situation. Having said this, I believe that nearly any new projector buyer and many who have owned projectors for a long time will be very happy with the W1070.

I own a JVC Rs45 which is nearly 3 times the price. It is a great projector with the best blacks out there. I bought the W1070 because of the 3D ghosting and because of the brightness. So far I have tried this projector for both 2D and 3D and I am amazed at the picture quality for the price. It does not have the blacks of the RS45 on 2D but it is every bit as sharp and may even be a little sharper when I compare the two. Properly adjusted the colors and brightness. are great. In 3D it is a pleasure to use without ghosting of any kind. I am also sure because of DLP technology it will be great for gaming. The biggest issue for some will be seeing the RBE. I am lucky in that it does not bother me. The other factor is that the blub, costs about $200 and one can get DLP 144K 3D glasses for about $25 each. Regarding 3D pop that some are wondering about. It is great and I have tried some of the reference films that how depth and pop including the import "A Turtle's Tale, Sammy's Adventure".
I am wondering if those who complained about 3D depth and pop had their glasses adjusted properly. Most DLP glasses have an adjustment for L/R reversal and if it is not set correctly there will be little or no pop.

rwestly,

Have you calibrated your W1070? If so, could you publish your settings? I know this isn't perfect but it would be a good alternative to Art's for comparison and possible use. Also, what screen are you using?

Have you calibrated your W1070? If so, could you publish your settings? I know this isn't perfect but it would be a good alternative to Art's for comparison and possible use. Also, what screen are you using?

I have calibrated my unit but my settings would not help because I did it through my DVDO-Iscan duo. The calibration results do help but I am sure you could do the same thing with a little effort. I used the Cinema setting with Brilliant color off and Smart ECO mode. I also set the gamma at 2.4 since I have a fully dark room.

I have an issue with my PJ...when I adjust the focus, it also moves the zoom a few inches. So basically, say that I fill the screen perfectly by adjusting zoom, then I start to adjust the focus, the zoom moves in or out a few inches. Any ideas?

I have an issue with my PJ...when I adjust the focus, it also moves the zoom a few inches. So basically, say that I fill the screen perfectly by adjusting zoom, then I start to adjust the focus, the zoom moves in or out a few inches. Any ideas?

Unless you can't get the zoom and focus to your liking, this might be normal for this projector. I tested one a couple of nights ago, and like the reviews mention the focus is a bit stiff and the zoom is a bit loose - so any kind of adjustment to zoom and or focus is going to be a bit more challenging than with some projectors that offer smooth adjustments. Once I got used to this being a "fact" with this model, it didn't bother me.

If you are careful when making focus adjustments, can you not keep the zoom where you ultimately want it to be with a little readjustment? If not, then likely you have an issue. I found it a bit challenging, but I could get the focus and zoom where I was happy with my adjustments.

Unless you can't get the zoom and focus to your liking, this might be normal for this projector. I tested one a couple of nights ago, and like the reviews mention the focus is a bit stiff and the zoom is a bit loose - so any kind of adjustment to zoom and or focus is going to be a bit more challenging than with some projectors that offer smooth adjustments. Once I got used to this being a "fact" with this model, it didn't bother me.

If you are careful when making focus adjustments, can you not keep the zoom where you ultimately want it to be with a little readjustment? If not, then likely you have an issue. I found it a bit challenging, but I could get the focus and zoom where I was happy with my adjustments.

Ian

I can get it to where i want it, but it takes trial and error. When I focus sharp, and the zoom goes out as a result, i readjust the zoom, and now the focus is out of place.

[quote name="Amgclk65" I'm stuck on what projector to get. I'm throwing up the idea of getting a epson 5010 from avs for 1999$
Vs the benq w1070 for 899$. I figured I could apply the 600$ to getting a better quality projector in the epson 5010. I don't plan to buy another projector for another 6 yr or so. I had the optoma for 6years. I figured I might as well pay a little extra for a better projector. I use my ht setup for Sunday football with some lighting in the room and the late night moving watching with the family as well. At night it's pretty dark. So my question would be should I spend the extra money and get the 5010 over the benq ? Or the benq is pretty close to the 5010 in blacks and lumens ..

I posted some comments today about my impressions of the new W1070 vs. my Epson 5010. I played with a demo W1070 for several hrs. last night, and I now have one on order. It should arrive early next week. If I had to part with one of the two projectors, I would definitely keep the W1070 over the 5010. The blacks of the BenQ don't get as deep . . . BUT . . . the picture from the BenQ to my eye is in every other way superior. The BenQ has all the sharpness you should expect from a good 1080p projector - to me the Epson just does not. If you have some lighting on in the room for football (and that's how you usually watch a projector) I bet the BenQ would blow you away . . . with any lights on the blacks are going to suffer - doesn't matter if you own a $10,000.00 projector or the little BenQ. If, however, you are watching in a dark home theater, and you are a stickler for the blackest blacks - then I'd go with a projector with deep blacks. But I don't think that the Epson 5010 is as ground-breaking as the BenQ. If you pay $1,000.00 more for the 5010, I truly don't think that there is $1,000.00 more you'll see on the screen. To me, it's the opposite. Other than looking carefully at the black level performance, if someone set up both projectors to do an A / B comparison - I KNOW I would pick the BenQ as the more expensive unit (even though it isn't). The picture coming from the W1070 looks more refined to my eye.

I never thought that bright, good-looking 1080p projectors, offering 3D performance, would come down to a price point that cost less than many mid-sized LED or plasma TV's. Amazing.

Since I have both units, I can only say, from seeing them in my home, what I would do . . . I would prefer to watch using the BenQ over the 5010! It's that good. I'd keep the grand left over by getting the W1070 for more replacement lamps - this way I get to watch more on the big screen!

Ian[/quote]
Thanks so much for the responding to my post. Your input has determine that I'll go with benq. For the price is seems to be a awesome projector.
Thanks again.

Got mine in today from AMZ CA. It was very nicely packed. In-case any of you were wondering whats inside the box I took some pics.

I am however wondering about the firmware edition.... Mine says "version 00- 101"... does that mean I got firmware version 1.01?

I wont get a chance to set this puppy up until the weekend so cant really comment on anything else but boy am I excited to get my first projector!

I just received mine today. I have not opened the box yet. I got the same version as yours "version 00- 101" Nov 2012. Does the unit itself had the old firmware or was it upgraded? I will prolly open mine when all the hardwares arrived.

Increasing the throw distance reduces internal reflections in the projector optics... some believe a contrast improvement is also gained by limiting the projected light to the center (sweet spot) of the lens as well (makes sense from a lens MTF perspective), which is why contrast improves when a static iris is closed down as well. Not the same thing as just cutting the brightness with a filter.

Is this a substantial argument against the W1080ST (which would work a lot better for me)?