Hammet House

This imposing country-house hotel is tucked away in the off-the-beaten-track northern fringes of Pembrokeshire, close to the scenic River Teifi. Inside, Georgian features are offset by bold designer furnishings. The atmosphere is informal and rates can be good value.

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£112per night

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Location

7/10

Hammet House sits at the end of a long drive, surrounded by seven acres of lawned gardens. Paths run down to the wide and picturesque River Teifi, which forms the border between Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion. A 10-minute stroll along the river brings you to impressive, multi-arched Llechryd bridge, with the quiet village on the far side. A longer riverside walk takes you to the ruins of Cilgerran Castle (National Trust). The nearest town is Cardigan, 10 minutes' drive away. Vast and dune-backed Poppit Sands, one of Pembrokeshire's biggest and best beaches, is 20 minutes away by car.

Style & character

8/10

The creeper-covered pile was built by Sir Benjamin Hammet in 1795, who owned and managed nearby tin works and became Sheriff of London. The house has been a hotel since 1960; in 2011 it was bought by Owen and Philippa Gale, who have given the place a fun, thorough and thoroughly modern makeover. You'll find various Farrow & Ball shades of grey throughout, modern chandeliers in the stately drawing room (where Sir Benjamin's portrait also hangs), playful contemporary versions of stags' heads and scarlet seating in the Library Bar, and Perspex chairs in the dining room. The ambience is very casual – there's no need to dress up in the evening – and light pop music wafts around.

Service & facilities

7/10

Owen and Philippa work their socks off, greeting guests, taking orders for dinner and so forth.

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Rooms

7/10

There are 15 bedrooms, all in the main house. The larger and more expensive ones (titled Good, Fabulous and Outstanding) typically have long Georgian sash windows and contemporary flourishes – perhaps a gold faux-leather sofa, Anglepoise bedside lamps or a silver-coloured phone. If you want a less expensive room, go for a Cosy one; the cheapest, called Tiny, are, as their name suggests, really small – not much larger than the bed. Bathrooms are traditionally styled. Tea trays include the hotel's own brand of coffee and home-made flapjacks or brownies.

Food & drink

7/10

The hotel was in between head chefs when I stayed, but the food was nonetheless enjoyable. Dishes that I sampled on the dinner menu included tandoori roast monkfish with breaded chicken wings, roe deer with kofta and mini pistachio macaroons and ice-cream. They were intriguing and well crafted, but to my mind perhaps overly complex. And for these parts the dinner menu is expensive, at £49 for three courses. That said, you can eat more affordably (and straightforwardly) on the all-day menu. The interesting wine list champions organic wines. Good breakfasts include home-made jams, fresh croissants and, in keeping with the informal spirit of the place, bacon, sausage or egg sandwiches among the cooked options.

Value for money

8/10

Room rates can be very affordable, especially if you book the advance-purchase rate (needs to be booked at least three weeks ahead; no changes or refunds), which undercuts standard prices by £20 a night. On the advance-purchase rate, Tiny doubles from £100; larger types of room increase in cost in increments of £20-£25; rates include breakfast. See the hotel's website for other deals, including enticing midweek offers for dinner, b&b and three nights for the price of two. Free Wi-Fi, though the service can be slow.

Access for guests with disabilities?

No.

Family-friendly?

Yes, children are very much welcome – the owners have young ones of their own. The family suite has a separate children's bedroom.