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Additional resources for Performance rock climbing

Example text

To enhance flexibility, stretching must first overcome the stretch reflex. In the next chapter we'll discuss two stretching techniques that do. Active Flexibility Being able to use our full range of motion depends on more than simple muscle length. When most people stretch, they use gravity and external aid to force their limbs into the difficult positions at the limits of their passive flexibility. But in real climbing situations, we can't force our limbs into stretched positions. We must pull them into those positions using our own muscle power.

Now that your muscles are well stretched, do ARM exercises to build strength in the new ranges of motion you've opened up. 50 51 To see how this four-step sequence works on the critical muscle groups we described, follow along with the illustrations. We begin with the adductor muscle group. Start by gently thrusting the leg to the side for ten to twenty seconds (Photo 1). Then assume positions from which you can do slow, steady stretching and CHRS stretching. Photos 2, 3, and 4 give examples of some stretches that target the adductor muscles.

But to keep from overburdening the body's recovery systems, care must be taken to ensure that successive days don't overfatigue particular systems. Follow these guidelines to schedule days involving different strength emphases: Intense power days should be separated by two recovery days. Demanding power-endurance can be done one or two days in a row but should be followed by an equal number of recovery days.