There is no such thing as a taco without a tortilla. With all due apologies to Donald J. Trump, a taco salad may be a salad, but it definitely isn’t a taco. A taco made with American supermarket tortillas isn’t much better.
The tacos at Taqueria El Trailero (Carretera … [Read more...]

There could be worse places to look for happiness than the bottom of a bowl of birria. Church, for instance. Or maybe the ballot box. High cuisine is great and tacos have their charms, but is there anything better than pulling up to a roadside birrieria, seeing lines out the door … [Read more...]

It once seemed cool to like Russian cuisine in a sort of ironic, vaguely countercultural sort of way. It may now be mandatory to like Russian cuisine in a sort of fascistic, vaguely homoerotic sort of way. Sad. Fortunately, Pomegranate Restaurant (2312 El Cajon Blvd.) in North … [Read more...]

My parents always suspected it might come to this. It just didn't happen the way they thought. I mean, I've always had a bad track record with library books. And I've always been a political junkie. It's the intersection of those two that have brought me to this juncture: my … [Read more...]