Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

Comments

Thanks for the warning not to pay MSRP! I can't believe I almost fell for that line! I'd like to hear how your negotiations turn out. So, you're in the Detroit area? I'm from Motown! I went to Cass Tech H. S. and the University of Michigan! Married a Buckeye!

After much debate, I bought a '99 DII last yearw/12,000 from a LR dealer. While I want to love this vehicle, I cannot forget that at 22,000mi the trans. failed. Oddly enough, it happened the day after the LR dealer "serviced" it! Three days later, I had my DII back w/new trans and it began emitting the same "klunk" sounds as the orig. trans. :-( Oh, and premature tire "cupping"? Don't worry, even after rotating tire every 3500mi "they all do that". I want my Toyota FJ-60 w/250,000mi back.

Thanks you guys for the helpful info. I am moderately mechanically inclined. I have a Turbo Coupe that's my baby. I do everything from the tune up to the brakes on her. Admittedly, I'm a bit nervous at the idea of tinkering with a Disco. Hanes manuals read like Greek to me. Are the Disco manuals any better? I understand they're more expensive, but it would be worth it, and AFTER I become a disco owner, I would love nothing more than to learn the ins and outs of how she purrrs.

Anybody in the SE Michigan area ever deal with Majestic Motors in Bay City? They are a "High Line" dealer and are attending a large auction in Pennsylvania in Feb. that sells BMW's, Mercedes, Land Rovers, etc that were former lease vehicles now up for sale. They supposedly come with an inspection on the spot, a Carfax check, and another inspection upon arrival to the dealer if given a green light at the auction. All of which is documented. . . of course. I'm not sure what to make of this, and was wondering if anyone knows about this kind of thing. It's also my understanding that the dealer owner attending this sale inspects the vehicles himself the day before the sale to check for leaks, clunks or any other problems when he drives them. If the auction gives the vehicle a yellow or red light (meaning they won't back the vehicle up after the sale) the dealer won't buy it. Regardless of how good it looks.

Input anyone?? I know how most auctions work> Could this be different?

If you're reasonably mechanical, then you'll do fine with the factory manuals. Yes they are expensive but wow are they full of information.

The biggest headaches will be electrical, and often the simplest problem will manifest in truly bizarre ways. Once you get past that down to the hard parts, you're going to fall in love with this truck. You'll need big wrenches for chassis and suspension work, and some odd sizes. Other tricks abound, such as the oil pan drain bolt being 1-1/8" (just the same as the lug nuts).

There's another very active discussion board, full of very knowledgeable people from all over the world. If you approach them sincerely they'll bend over backward to help:

About the auction, it's pretty important to run down the vehicle history by VIN at a Rover dealership to see how the truck has been maintained. You want to make sure she's had plenty of regular fluid changes, and as much documentation as possible. An ideal truck will have a fully complete Passport To Service. Fluid change neglect will show up in an all-alloy engine as premature (EXPENSIVE) wear. The auto trans is pretty much bullet-proof, as is the xfer case. If it has aftermarket lockers in the diffs then see if the owner put in upgraded axles. If not, walk away. If it's lifted, did the prior owner upgrade radius/trailing arms and drive shafts? Is it sagging on the offside aft corner? Also look for corrosion at the bottom aft corners of the rear seat door openings, there will be "a little" there, but better not be very much. Look at the big bolts underneath... has the long-term accumulated crud been cracked away from wrenches? If so, what was replaced?

I can't think of anything else, other than... if you've done a brake job on your Turbo Coupe, you're going to LOVE doing it on a Disco. It's like heaven with wrenches.

Get used to loving the truck early on, because when (not 'if') the nagging problems appear it's the affection alone that will keep her in the driveway. I had a thought this morning on my commute: owning an early Series Rover is like living with a child for years... they complain but they're easily dealt with using simple remedies. Owning a Disco is more like living with an adolescent for years... they have complaints which are more sophisticated and will take more effort to address... and will make you nuts dealing with them. Once dealt with, the good stuff comes pouring back again.

Land Rover Farmington Hills in my main dealer. For the most part, they remain the most pleasant automotive dealer experience I've ever had. That has been tested on numerous occasions over the past couple of years, but they still remain a good group of folks.

I actually hear quite a few negative comments about the Fred Lavery dealership. Never been there (no reason to) so I can't comment directly.

Also, haven't heard of the Bay City outfit, but keep in mind that if you get a vehicle there, you won't be entitled to loaner vehicles and the other things you get from buying your vehicle at LR Farmington or Fred Lavery.

Anyone put children in the back of their DII?I have three kids, two of them in car seats.I cannot bear a mini-van. You don't have to sell me on any aspect of the truck other than family travel. I already have done a ton of research, driven them, and LOVE THEM. Can someone with kids let me know how the DII has been working out? The alternative would be an Expedition or Durango, but we really don't want to look so redneck. Advice appreciated.

Sometimes I think I love my disco too much and that is why I was willing to overlook some of the problems she had...but she's worth every mechanic bill and time spent not being able to drive her...just sitting behind her wheel reassures me.

Positive disco experience really depends on the TLC the former/future owner gave/gives the disco in order for it to be an enjoyable and loving relationship....it's not for everyone...it's not like other vehicles...

I have a 2000 Disco II with the 7 seat pkg and rear A/C. My kids love it!! My 2 girls, 5 & 10, like sitting up high in the rear seats, but they actually prefer the jumpseats in the rear, where they have their own radio/cd controls and headset plug in. We put them back there on long trips and we don't here from them again till we get there. Plus, they love their own sunroof. The rear A/C keeps them cool during humid Virginia summers.

The only downside is no cargo room with the jumpseats down. A good solution is Yakima racks with a box on the roof for extra capacity.

Sagging in the aft corner - I think Nanuq posted that comment. I think I know what he means - by tape measurement on level ground, the wheel well on my passenger-rear side sat a whole 1.5" lower than the driver's side rear. At around 50,000 miles I changed out springs and shocks, and this helped somewhat, but the back corner still sits a tad lower. Maybe due to a 'feature' of the woodheads or something with the spring? Not sure...

If discos that you look at sit really low in that corner, it may be time for new springs and shocks.

As for post 209 - I really like that - OPEN. Just remember, extra emphasis on the diNero!

In answer to 207..I haul my 2 grandsons about in my 2000 Discovery and besides it being a slight challenge to get the car seat for the younger one through the door, they both enjoy it in the back seat. The older 4 year old, who no longer requires a car seat, like napping using the arm rest as a pillow.I also feel they are very safe back there.Enjoy..

My lease (my very expensive lease) on my Ford Explorer is almost up (thank goodness). As trade in time looms near, I am faced with what to replace it with. I just can't drive a Mom-mobile. I have 2 kids and a huge dog (235 lbs) that goes everywhere with me so I have to have a reasonable amount of room, but the sport utility vehicles out there just don't ring my bell. The Discovery I like....and I am considering buying a 97 or 98 model so that I don't suffer the poor resale value of it if I decide to hate it in two years. But if the thing breaks down every 20 miles it is going to do me no good. Quirks I don't mind as long as I can still drive and the problem can wait till the weekend when my husband can look at it. My other options are a used volvo or mercedes wagon (98 or 99) or a 98 or 99 Mercedes M thing....which looks just too much like a minivan for me to love without effort. I am only 30 years old, and I want something that will accomodated rolled down windows and the B-52s on the cd changer without making me look too silly. Anyone, anyone?

My guess is it's either a fatso pooch or a pooch one would call "sir" in a dark alley.

If it's a fatso pooch then he might have trouble getting up inside the back of a Disco... it's a bit of a jump up.

If he's a "Sir" Dawg then assuming he lets you drive and HE rides in back, he shouldn't have much trouble. You might consider the optional loadspace separator bars that will keep him back there in case of accident... that's a lot of mass to fly forward, injuring you AND him.

My brother-in-law's got a Mastiff that weighs 220# and I thought HE was big! Holy Buckets!

VS4.. In response to your question about the 2002 Disco's, I read this in the Edmunds future look page...

Land Rover

2002 Free lander (SUV) Land Rover joins the mini-SUV ranks with the Free lander. With a V6 engine and five-speed automatic transmission, the Free lander is expected to compete against Ford's new Escape in size, but not price.

2002 Range Rover (SUV) An all-new Range Rover will debut with more aerodynamic styling incorporating heritage design cues. Longer, taller and wider than the current model, the next Rover will be based on the BMW X5 platform, meaning a fully independent, air-sprung suspension instead of the old solid axles. Power will come from any of three BMW gas engines (3.5- or 4.4-liter V8 and 5.4-liter V12) or a 4.0-liter turbodiesel.

2003 Discovery (SUV) A redesign is on the books for Discovery in '03, including a long-wheelbase version about midway through the model run.

Now does this mean that the Disco 02 will have any changes; I not sure, but if they are re designing for 03, I would not hold my breath for the 02's. I'm also looking to purchase,but you can call me "Gun Shy" for a lack of a better word.

You read my mind! I'm on the lookout for a Defender and will probably spring for a used one in the next 3-6 months. Here's the scoop:1. LR stopped importing them in 1997 due to poor emissions and lack of airbags.2. LR stated at the North American International Auto Show in a Press Conference that the Defender wouldn't be redesigned until 2004. That means that we probably won't see North American models until 2005-2006. They're entertaining entry back into NA market, but nothing concrete yet.3. Importing them is tricky at best. I've researched this extensively and the bottom line is that if you do get it through customs, you may be ok. But chances are 80-90+% that you won't make it through, and they will destroy the vehicle. That said, there are probably a dozen or so blackmarket vehicles in the US today - 1998-2000 Defender TDI's. While it would be so very cool to have one, where would you get it serviced?4. You CAN import any vehicle 25 years or older, so 1976 Series III's can now be imported into the US. These are just about as much fun as a Defender, 1/2 to 1/3 the cost, but very spartan and utilitarian. If you're interested, I'll post a couple of the importers that I've seen active over the past couple of years.

Did that answer everything? Let me know if there is anything else. I'm moving to Washington (state) in March and will be keeping the DI (for now at least - a DII is in the future someday) and will be picking up a Defender 90 in the March-May timeframe. I dream about the Defender like a kid dreams about Christmas day

Occasionally I have a nightmare when I realize that I'll own 2 out of warranty Rover products. After the cold sweat and standing hair subsides, the happy feeling returns .

About the sagging aft corner...Ever since nanuq put it to my attention I've been noticing it on every parked Disco I ! I can honestly say I haven't made an effort to look at the D II(I'm not really a fan). Now, maybe it was a blonde moment I was having; but I noticed the sagging only occurs on the side of the spare tire and only in the rear....I thought the weight of the spare was the cause...gee, i'm feeling air headed! BUT, I just replaced the original shocks with Bilsteins and the springs are in great shape...someone please make me a brunette again!!!.....and what's with the 235lb dog!!!WOW.

It's simplest to say the stock springs are apparently made of tinfoil, and will sag after only a short while. And, more weirdness: all four corners of the DI call for different spring rates. Is it because of 235# dogs? Or is it just the fun-loving Brits?

Many people quickly realize you don't want to replace tinfoil springs more than once, so if they're unlucky enough to replace them on their own nickel they go with Old Man Emu springs or other alternates.

Take a look at the Discoweb, there's a tech section that's loaded with good info.

Well, I'm a newbie RR owner, having just purchased a '98 4.6 with 31K miles. It appears to be in mint condition, with service history at a LR dealer, a very conscientious first owner, & almost no repairs needed in 2 1/2 years. I have 2 basic questions:

Are the '98 RR's more reliable than previous years? (In one post on another site I saw the '95-'96 RR's referred to as "test beds").

And, is it worth it to purchase a LR extended warranty at $1350 per year? Even though this is my first LR, I've been lurking & posting on this board & others for some time so I know how expensive LR's are to repair (which is probably answering my own question). However, I do tend to put very low miles on my vehicles (as low as 5,000 miles/year).....also I'm wondering if I bought say 2 more years of warranty; if things wouldn't just start to go right after that? Of course, there's also peace of mind to consider......

Also want to say that I got a lot of good advice on this board last year, from wasko & others, when I was shopping for a Disco. I just went a little crazy tho & went for this RR. Only thing bugging me is the 10mpg in mixed town & highway driving.... Worse than I expected!

Hanging out with my service guys at LR (which I get to do quite often , we got on the subject of Range Rover repairs one day.

They were mentioning that if you dent a rim that it costs $600 to replace the rim.

One oxygen sensor for your exhaust is $200, one catalytic converter is around $1800, the complete exhaust assembly (minus catalytic) would be somewhere between $500-700. So, replace the entire exhaust system (plus labor) and you're looking at around $2700-2800.

Not sure what air suspension costs to get fixed, but I would think that it isn't cheap.

I personally would pay the $2700 for the extended warranty. If you never use it, consider yourself fortunate! If you need to use it, you'll be glad you have it - kinda like homeowners insurance.

I was on another mailing list for Disco's and a lot of the guys there were buying 3rd party warranties for their Discos - goto www.msn.com and search for: auto warranty --- you'll get quite a few hits. In some cases, these can be half of the dealer's warranty, and some have a deductible (like the first $50-200 of a repair), which may make great sense.

I am considering a few SUV's needed to tow a 4500lb boat (dual axle, approx 500lb tongue weight). The SUV will also be used as a recreational off road vehicle, not just a grocery getter as they commonly are these days. I want a 4x4 with a V8 but don't want a Ford or other uneccessarily large vehicle. This leaves only a few options - Jeep Grand Cherokee, Dodge Durango or Dakota Quad Cab. Is the Disco II a capable, comfortable, & safe vehicle to consider with the aforementioned towing needs? Any feedback/input would be greatly appreciated. Thank, Dan

The MB ML430 can tow up to 5000 lbs and is suitable for light to medium off-road duties. You may want to consider it as well. The M-class topic is the place for you to ask any questions for that particular vehicle.

wasko: Thanks for the advice on buying an extended warranty. Pretty much what I had been thinking myself, but I wanted to hear it from a more experienced LR owner before plunking down the $$$$. I will check out your suggestions for aftermarket warranties, but I'm thinking the LR warranty might make everything simpler & easier in event of a claim.

The RR is growing on me (not that I didn't really like it at first). Very nimble handling for an SUV; as around off ramps & such. Stereo is not bad but not great & I may start looking into upgrading either the speakers, or the head unit, not sure which is the weak link yet altho I imagine upgrading the head unit would not allow use of the steering wheel controls. Any advice from anyone re: upgrading the stereo?

I've been seriously considering buying a new 2001 II. I'm glad I came across this posting. I'm researching the vehicle and now fully understand what I might be getting myself into. It seems that most have problems, which my desire to have this vehicle will overcome (love/hate, how great!). So, the most important question seems to be, which dealer? I live in Northern Virginia so my choices will be, from closest to furthest, AR of Alexandrian, HBL of Tysons, AR of Rockville, or AR of Richmond. Any input about any of these dealerships would be greatly appreciated. I will be waiting (12-18 months) to see what impact Ford's ownership of AR will have on the Disco line. If anyone hears of the future changes being made, please let me know. I will definitely purchase before, if and when, Ford makes it a "Discoplorer" but would like to wait for possible quality upgrades on the current model line. Thanks to all.

IGRAY, is it LEGAL for wolverines to mary a buckeye?? My wife (class of '89) and I ('88) are Maize and Blue through and through.

Search for the SD7 (we have two children 2 and 5 y/o, and one on the way -- PLUS, we are car-pooling with two snotty kids next door. That is one infant-seat + todler seat + 5 y/o in the backseat AND two Prozac kids in the third row -- NO, they do NOT get A/C nor their own stereo!!) took us now to the dealership in Grand Rapids. Apparently the SD7 we were working on at Farmington dealership has gone AWOL! We have only dealt with G.R. dealers through telephone, but the pricing once again has been VERY reasonable.

My advice to you is to get in on that X-plan buisiness (you MUST know somebody who works for the Ford). We asked my wife's friend's husband to get us into the plan and it was certainly worth our while!!

I plan to pick up the SD7 within next two weeks or so, and with the X-plan, we are looking at no $ down and 530$/mo @ 12000mi/yr.

And you guys thought that FoMoCo was only famous for those exploding tires!!

I will let you know how things went (and if the trip to Grand Rapids was worth it).

We used to live in Charlottesville and purchased our '99 Disco II SE from the Richmond dealer. They wouldn't deal at all on price so from that respect you might do better in the NoVa area. However, their service was great. They would drive to C-ville to pick our car up for oil changes, etc and leave us a loaner car. We definitely have a love-hate relationship with this SUV. We love the styling, driver position but the ride is harsh and loud and gas mileage is terrible. we've recently looked at other SUV's -Toyota LC, Lexus LX, BMW X5- while they all are great - smooth, great handling, quiet, etc - none have the "personality" and exterior styling of our Disco. So, we won't be doing anything soon and anxious to see what the Ford buyout brings.

I bought my '97 Disco at LR at Rockville and have had service experiences at LR of Alexandria and HBL of Tysons. I would buy from the Rockville and Alexandria dealers before I would even set foot on HBL. IMO, LR of Alexandria and Rockville are both great "LR Centres". When I purchased mine before, there were no pressure whatsoever from the sales person.

I recently purchased my "previously enjoyed" LR at LR of Rockville in Rockville, MD. I loved the defenders and was sad that they stopped making them back in 97. I got my LR defender 90 in AA yellow for just over $35k. it has 30k miles on it and i feel that i got a bargin. I hope LR makes the defender again soon so i can have one for my next car. I chose LR of rockville because it is close by and i realized the farther from Washington DC the better the price. i had a bad experience at HBL of tysons and they wanted over $47k for the same car with more miles on it. The people at LR of rockville are nice and friendly.GOOD LUCK!!!!

Yesterday I drove my new (to me) '98 RR 4.6 in the snow for the first time.....& have a few newbie-type questions if anyone would care to respond.

Unfortunately, & this may sound like heresy to other LR owners, my RR was extremely mediocre in about 3 inches of new very wet snow yesterday. It was sliding a lot (fish-tailing) around corners taken at very moderate speeds, & not stopping that well. It didn't handle nearly as well as some front wheel drive cars I've driven in snow (with all weather tires). Not what I expected, to say the least.

So, I then put it into low range, & it did handle a lot better in the snow, altho the transmission seemed to shift a lot less smoothly. Is putting a LR into low range in snow considered to be SOP? And how long & at what speeds is it OK to drive in low range (The manual doesn't give much advice on that).

I should mention the tires: they are the 18" Michelin "4X4" models (with plenty of tread left) that I believe were original equipment. Just looking at them it seems obvious that they are more for highway cruising than extreme conditions, but I would think with 4WD, & traction control they could handle a few inches of snow.

I did call the Tire Rack & we talked about getting 16" snow tires & wheels, but I hadn't thought that would be necessary with a RR.......I do know however that BMW X5's for instance are not that great in the snow with the larger size (18" or 19") tires on certain models. I guess I expected a Disco or RR to be practically invincible in snow, regardless, or at least as good as my old Saab 9000 was.

Any advice would be appreciated (& thanks for putting up with what may sound like some pretty dumb questions to experienced Rover owners)!

It is GOOD ADVICE to go 16" if you're buying true snow tires. I just last week put Nokian Hakkapeliittas on my '96 Disco and while I was waiting the counter guy told me of a lady with 18" wheels who holed a sidewall, it took TEN DAYS to get a replacement tire for her, and the tire (singular) was over $400. Of course we're at the end of the earth here but still...

I can't say enough about the Nokians. If you're buying pure winter tires that will be swapped out with the seasons, get the studs. Look at www.discoweb.org and they'll give recommendations for sizing. I prefer tall and narrow: more ground clearance for the DEEP snow and narrow tires cut thru the slop easier. I put on 245/75-16s and I've got more than 12" under my differentials now. Can you say "unstoppable"? I would actually be happier with the narrower tire. I believe that one's a 235/85-16. Discoweb tells the details.

Although it IS a Rover, it is not "magic". It weighs close to 5,000# and it has a lot of power to break your traction. Your wide highway-biased tires didn't help either... they're very "floaty".

Low range helped because it slowed you down... the floatiness of your tires was reduced at lower speed. As far as I know there is no limit to distance or time you can drive in 4L, but watch the tach. At 35mph my Disco is revving plenty high in low range... keep it below about 5k RPMS as an absolute maximum. It has rev limiters but still... why abuse it? The shifting will be very "notchy" in 4L. It is in serious offroad mode at that time, you've more than doubled the torque, and it does NOT want to slip any clutches inside the trans. Be gentle with the throttle. I have a locking center diff... I believe you have a viscous coupler. Both should be equally good in the deeps.

I drive mine in 4H all the time (unless I'm looking to get seriously stuck for fun). It gives me a little more speed as necessary to really blast thru berms and over piles. I've been in snow deep enough it scraped dirt off my doors half-way up to the windows, and packed snow around the headlights. The Nokians are amazing. Yes I got stuck... that's why God made square nose coal shovels. Keep one in back. If you bury it too bad be careful not to bash your cat converters as you dig out. You'll also curse the mudflaps... mine are long gone. Uncover the exhaust so it can breathe as it idles as you dig. You'll have a TON of snow up under the front axle, clear that first to get the wheels down to where they'll bite traction. You might also carry a snatch strap for just in case... and read up on fixing points for tow recovery, you don't want to wrap around the axles.

Kemmons- I purchased my 2000 Disco II from Fred Lavry Co in Birmingham, MI. The sales manager there was excellent (Burt Poole). With the purchase, I was very happy. However, when I went in for a scheduled oil change (I had an appointment), I waited for 1 hr 45 minutes. I didn't go back there for another oil change.

LR Farmington Hills service department was excellent, I couldn't have been happier....

Problem: When I start my 2000 Disco II (I have about 25k miles), it turns over and over, and sounds like it is "half started". It often takes me 5-6 tries to actually get it to fully start. Once it starts, if the RPM gets low, it will stall. It seems like once I am on the road for 20-30 minutes, I can turn it off and re-start with no problems. I THINK it occurs more in cold weather, but as time goes by, the problem is happening more and more.

With this, the check engine light comes on, as well as the traction control and hill descent lights. Also, the red lights flash on the shifter.

I've had my car in 4 times now and the first three times they were unable to replicate the problem. This time they have seen it happen, but they do not know the cause.

I found a similar posting here on townhall (posting 136). Posting 137 responded to this problem, but it doesn't mention the stalling problem.

Has anyone seen or heard of a similar situation?

And wasco, what's going on? You completely rock this site! Thanks for all your postings!

I'm interested in '99 Disco's. Just recently turned on to them. Previously looking at Land Cruisers. How do they compare? What's reliablity and cost of maintenance and service on the Disco? I will be taking this vehicle off-road, open to any advice.

nanuq: Thanks for all the advice; I read your post several times. We don't have as severe winter conditions here in Mass. as you do, but I think snow tires may be very necessary on the RR & I will look into getting 16" rims & Nokians. Have you ever compared the Nokians to Artic Alpins, or Blizzaks, etc.?

The weird thing is that despite the awful gas mileage, & poor snow performance with the stock tires, the RR is growing on me more every day, & it is very excellent in urban/surburban everyday driving; an extremely impressive vehicle & that's without even using it off-road yet. I'm actually having some sick thoughts of selling my BMW (M6), a very beautiful car, but I've had it for a long time, & buying a Defender (?). Not sure that makes a lot of sense but at this point the truck fetish seems to be overtaking the urge to own German cars.

Actually winters in Mass. may be worse than here. The warm snow is slick and heavy, and treacherous to drive in. Nice dry cold snow is almost like driving on pavement, believe it or not. In heavy wet snow you'll like the Nokians, they have DEEP tread in the LT series and they cut thru the slop nicely. Blizzaks work great for the first half of the tread then they get down to normal dense rubber and wear better, but offer less traction. I've read GOOD things about Alpins... but sorry, no specifics. Another to consider are BFG Trac-Edge... lots of people run them here, the lugged shoulders are good in slop and in mud.

I just bought a 96 Discovery SE7 with 62,000 miles. After getting used to all of the nuances of the Rover, I am completely hooked. However, my rear door now will not open. I can lock and unlock the door, but the latch will open the door. Since the Rover did not come with an owners manual, am I missing something? Any advise will be helpful.

Oh man, think think think... I read something about this a couple years ago. What was it?!!!

In the black outside housing that holds the rear door latch there's a little green oval plastic logo insert. I believe that pops out (be careful not to break it!) and you can get in there with some WD-40 to loosen the mechanism. Please be careful, I *think* this is right but I am not certain and I'd hate to have you break the insert.

Bob is right - put a little screwdriver behind the green oval - pops right out. I've had it off 3-4 times over the past and it does get kinda gummed up in there. A little WD-40 should really help you out in there.

You'll see the plate inside that controls the rear door handle. Just work that up and down from both the inside and outside and keep WD40 going on the edges and you should be golden.

Everytime I change my oil, I hit all the door hinges and other areas with WD, including removing the oval and hitting that area as well.

Price doesn't seem too out of line. I would jot the VIN number down and take it to a Rover dealer (if you're not buying it from a Rover dealer) and they can pull up all of the vehicle's history for you. If you go back and read the previous posts, I would look out for sagging springs, rusted muffler, make sure it has the new valves (nanuq can add to this), make sure the dash (up by the windshield) isn't peeling, etc.

Other than that, you should be in great shape! Land Rovers are a love/hate relationship and if you're committed, they'll give you years of pleasure. Enjoy.

Thanks guys for the advise for the stuck door. I did everything that you suggested and it worked!! One more question. How do you get back to the rear tail light area to change the light bulbs? When I step on the brake pedal, the light does not come on, but when I turn the lights on, the light works. I'm sure it's either the bulb, or a fuse. Again, any advise will be helpful. I checked the service records on this vehicle at LR of Alexandria, and they took excellent care of the vehicle, but I think they got tired of spending money on the vehicle. I'm willing to try to fix these little things myself, and I'm going to buy the service manual. Thanks in advance.

The plastic inside mouldings in back have two oblong vertical openings held on by philips screws, usually with little plastic covers over the heads. Pop these off, remove the screws and you'll see the wiring harness, and white plastic plugs that hold the bulbs. These are the "push in and turn" plugs, and they're easy to remove. You'll want to get the Real Deal bulbs, for some reason someone said the generic dual filament bulbs used by 99.99% of the rest of the cars in the world won't work right... and the Rover bulbs are surprisingly not expensive. Pop the new bulb in its holder, and crack open a pint of ale... you'll be there 15 minutes trying to put the white plastic plug back in right. It looks easy but I CANNOT get them back in first try! Maybe my hands are too big...

While you're at the Rover Shop pick up 10 of those bulbs that go in the bumper, side markers and parking lights. They're cheap too, and once one blow just replace them all. They're also the "push in and turn" sockets.

Make sure you have your plugs seated right when you're done, there are foam rubber seals to keep dirt out of your reflectors.