Ford F-150 Owners

Comments

I do it myself on the auto trans dip stick. The color and smell can tell you if the transmission is due for an earlier servicing, or if the transmission fluided is being over heated. Service intervals are just a guide line. Vehicles that are doing towing, hauling, or used in heavy type work requier shorter intervals. Of course like most customers, you can skip it and just buy a transmission later. You can pay me now or later, its all good.

Can't say I ever heard of smelling the oil dip stick for coolant though. Not all blown head gaskets introduce coolant into the crankcase. When it does, the mix turns the oil like chocolate milk and is a dead give away. I can't say I have ever saw a fellow mechanic smell the oil dip stick.

HI1995 302, CHECK THE TIMING. the harmonic balancer is the sheeve for making everything turn.It has a rubber insert, this insert will slip and change timing.Late timing, more gas, more heat, less power.More heat is the first noted problem. Cats for 95 302 non ford about 300 total (HOUSTON).Replace head gaskets 302 MUSTANG, $3000.Valve covers 302 F150' $1500.Where do I get head gaskets fot $300?

I have a 1988 f150 xlt Lariat. My lower ball joint is shot, how hard is it to replace providing I have the proper tools? I have a manual and general idea of what I am doing, is there anyhting I should know before I tackle the operation?

I drive a 2000 F150. I could easily afford a new truck. I don't buy one because the size has gotten out of hand. I'm 5'6", and I have trouble seeing over the current model's tailgate. Also, my 2000 is a regular cab with a nice short wheelbase. This allows me to park the truck in tight spaces that I could not fit into with a newer model - at least not without doing a 15 point turn.

I'm too grown up to drive a Ranger - what are my options? Is anyone from Ford out there listening?

You have quite a few options. The tail gate could be removed on a newer truck and a safety net put in its place. You also could modify the seat height and put pedal extenders on the brake and gas pedals if needed. If a smaller truck is what you really want, consider the Toyota tundra. If your going to use it all the time for hauling or towing, the chassi isn't as durable as the f series. The upsideon the Toyota is also gas millege. The down side is if the starter ever needs to be replaced. Its under the intake manifold on the v8. Ford also makes a sportrack. Go do some test drives and see what fits good and will meet you needs for hauling or what ever.

WASHINGTON (AP) -- The government on Thursday warned owners of about 4.6 million recalled Ford vehicles to bring their cars and trucks immediately to dealerships to disconnect cruise control switch systems that have been linked to engine fires.ADVERTISEMENT

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration issued the consumer advisory to owners of certain unrepaired Ford, Lincoln and Mercury sport utility vehicles, pickup trucks, vans and passenger cars who have not yet responded to past recalls.

The recalls have vexed the Dearborn, Mich.-based automaker, affecting its popular F-Series pickup trucks, prompting hundreds of complaints and dozens of lawsuits over engine fires. Three deaths have been tied to the fires and Ford has struggled to produce enough parts to fix the problem.

About 9.6 million Ford vehicles have been recalled since 1999 and about 5 million have been fixed, raising concerns about the remaining vehicles on the road. NHTSA said they have received about 60 complaints of engine fires in the Ford vehicles since August 2007.

Ford said they supported the action and dealers would soon offer a more permanent fix.

"We absolutely want everybody to come in as soon as they can because we can eliminate the risk of fire for anyone with a vehicle in this recall," said Ford Motor Co. spokesman Wes Sherwood. He said the company would have an "ample supply" of the replacement parts by June.

NHTSA said many dealers will disconnect the cruise control switches as a "drive through" service so owners do not have to leave their vehicles at the dealership or schedule an appointment.

Dealers have installed a fused wiring harness into the speed control electrical system as part of the recall, but replacement parts have not been widely available. Owners can take their vehicle to a dealer to have the cruise control deactivated until the parts arrive.

NHTSA issued a lengthy list of older vehicles covered by the consumer advisory, including 1993-2004 Ford F150 trucks, 1994-2002 F250 through F550 Super Duty trucks with gasoline engines, and 1998-2001 Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer SUVs, all of which were among the best-selling vehicles in the nation during those years.

The Ford recalls have run into problems. Earlier this month, the automaker recalled about 225,000 vehicles that had already been repaired because some wiring harnesses appeared to be defective.

Ford also faces more than 100 lawsuits nationwide because of fires linked to the cruise control deactivation switch. Many owners have alleged the fires began after the vehicles were turned off and there have been three deaths attributed to that problem in Iowa, Georgia and Arkansas.

Last week, Ford was able to consolidate 77 lawsuits filed in Texas so a single judge can handle pretrial discovery.

Ford has said its internal investigations have found the fires did not cause deaths and injuries.

"In the cases where there was that allegation, we found that the source of the fire was unrelated to the vehicle," said Ford spokeswoman Kristen Kinley.

i am attempting to build a 347 stroker for my 85 f-150 right now it has a 302 out of a 95 ford mustang and needs to be replaced i have another block and heads to use for the 347 it is also out of a 95 mustang i have never built a motor i have only rebuilt them i would say that i am slightly mechanically inclined but i need a site or something to help me blue print and balance it i have started to port the heads and have a good machine shop to do all the work on the block and the 3 angle valve job on the heads

Pulled a 5 speed from a 1994 ford which shifted well and was real smooth. Then I put it in a 1992 Ford f150. Right after I put it all in the truck I found it was in gear. Now I can't get it out of gear. The clutch slave seems to be doing its job, and I bled the system, and have done all I know to do. Any suggestions on what it could be??

If it will not come out of gear even with the engine off, the transmission might be hung up. I suggest verifying that the trans change over is compatible. Here is my thought. If the out put shaft is slightly longer on the transmisssion you put in, it might be binding things up. Try loosing all of the bell housing bolts so the trans is away from the engine a little and see if this frees it. If it does, a solution to this would be to shim or place some u shape spacers between the engine and trans.

Hello i am looking to put clear corners on my 2001 white f150 and wanted some inout. I was curious on what others thoughts were about replacing the stock healights as well..i don't want to put the clear corners on and it look tacky with the older dirty headlights, not that they're that bad. i was also curious if anyone knew if there was a way to make fog lights bright enough the mesh with the new clear lights. Thanks !!

I recently bought a 94 f150 and the engine blew. I would like to know what years engines are able to swap and how hard would it be to change the computer if I change to a 351. And if anyone has one reasonable.

Not sure if your existing wiring harness is compatable with a PCM for a 351. Check the wiring schematic in an auto book and see if they are the same. If not compatalble, your going to have to change the harness. You might get lucky since its a Ford, both engines may use the same PCM & harness. There is a tricky way of finding out. On both PCM's there is a sticker with a number on it. Call Autozone and see if both PCM's come back to the same part number. As for bolting up to you trans, call ATK engines(reman engines & trans) they will be able to tell you what engines can bolt up to your trans. Good luck!

I have a 1988 F150 that I have been hopping up for a while now. I have question regarding the AC. The AC has not ever worked and I don't need it because i have a single cab with a sliding rear window. Can i remove it? If so; will it make a little more power if I use a bypass pulley instead of the compressor sittng there? I will have more room to work and get rid of a little weight. this truck weighs alot as it is. Will I get more cool air in my rad with out the condenser up front?

When the AC is free wheeling, acting as a pully only, the horse power it takes to turn it is no more than another pully. It is only when the AC compressor is engauged and the engine has to turn it that it takes about 7-10 horse power to turn it. The weight being removed will not make any noticalbe difference. As for the removal of the condensor. This should provide additional air flow. However; if your engine runs too cold because of this, it will use more gas if the engine can't maintain proper engine temp.

I bought a new rad that is half the size of the one that compensates for the ac, I got it because I want to switch to an electric fan later on. The AC has never worked, in fact the last time I tried to use the AC it stalled the truck.

Would using the smaller rad make up for the added airflow and cancel out the mileage issue? I plan on doing alot to the motor this year, should I leave it? or tear it out? The extra room would be nice. If it makes a difference I have also purchased an under drive pully set that has not been installed, I was going to do it when I got the ac thing worked out.

Aside from the AC thing. I am having an issue with my truck that is concerning me. I think it is the tranny but I am not sure. I have an AOD. Here goes......

The truck is fine when I am accellerating but every now and then when I am stuck behind someone in traffic that is bound and determined to go 50k and no faster. Third gear has no power when it kicks down or in at a lower rpm, I have to stomp it to get power. If I am stopped and then drive it runs through the gears no problem, it has lots of power cruising at 65k but if I slow down to 50k I have power loss. I get a rattle as well as if something is loose, but only when it kicks down. Otherwise I have no problem. Tranny fluid is good not burnt. Everything else is good. From a stand still it will pull you back in the seat and flies all the way up 160k (thats is fast as I have had it off the line) but if I have to take my foot off around 50k, no dice....

My husband & I have a ford F-150 On sunday we were backing into our driveway & my husband could not get the truck to drop into reverse & move. We tried a few times & it would not go. The truck has about 46,000 miles on it. We were able to get it to drop into drive & a message flashed transmission default. 2 weeks ago we were driving & the truck started shaking & as we pulled on to our street the OD light started flashing, we were going to drive it to the dealer however we treid to drive it my husband was able to back it in the drive way but when he wanted to go forward he was giving it over half throtle & it wouldn't budge we had it towed to the dealer thinking it was transmission issue that would be covered under a warranty. They called my Husband & told himit was the front brakes & there was nothing wrong with the transmission. They fixed the front brakes to the tune of $500+. They tried to tell us we need rear brake work however they were fairly new 7 had been done by another vendor when we took it to that vendor (midas) they looked at it discovered the E-brake was stuck charged us $30 to fix that rather than another $200 for rear brakes the dealer wanted. Sunday we had it towed back to the same dealer. Yesterday they called my Husband & tried to insist again it was the rear brakes he told them the rer brakes were fine we had just had them looked at. He told them when it went in the first tiem he thought it was a transmission issue. They never looked at the transmisssion. Now they FINALLY agree there IS an issue with the tran, however they don't know what until they take it out & look at it which is a 5 hour project just to take it out & see what is worng. Then tack on the cost to rpair anything. Has anyone had this issue? Any suggestions? Other than telling the dealer to go to HE double hockey stick? The tranny fluid is fne & not burnt or leaking. the dealer couldn't answer us when asked why a 3 year old truck would have a tranny issue. It was leased in 2004 July.

Just today, I tried to put my 2004 F-150 into reverse. With a little gas, it did not budge. Thought maybe I did not engage the gears completely, put it in park, back to reverse and it did finally move. Driving down the road, it felt sluggish then would seem to speed up on its own. I picked up my son and went to turn around on a drive way and again, could not get the truck to go into reverse. Then it began jerking and sounded as if I were dragging something underneath it. Then beep...and the transmission fault appeared on the mileage screen and the O/D light began to flash off and on. I was able to make it home but took awhile.

May I ask what you found on your truck and approximate $$$$$ involved. Of course, we are not covered under warranty and can only find that we were covered by the powertrain warrantly until 3 years/36,000 miles. The truck is only 4 years old and has less than 49,000 miles on it. This is just sickening.Thank you for any information you are willing to share with me.

I also have a 04 f150 79,000km on it. I went for reverse the other day and nothing happened it was like putting the truck in neutral. i got a trans fault warning on my display, as i am not covered by any warranty . i am trying to find out what the problem could be. DONT BUY A FORD :lemon:

I need to replace all three O2 sensors (confirmed by professional engine analysis) on my 96 F150 w/ 5.0L. Is this a DIY project for a "shade-tree" mechanic with very limited knowledge of emissions systems. The going labor rate suggests not much time is involved, and the parts appear to be "plug-n-play." Are there special tools needed (a deal-breaker for sure)? Anyone done this job themselves?

They do make a 7/8 socket with a slit in it for the wires, availible at autozone.. The two upstream o2 I just use a 7/8 wrench. The down stream o2 you may need the special socket, depending on how long they have been in there. I have gone to remove them and the treads on the pipe strips out. Careful there. Its just plug n play. To reset any trouble codes you may have disconect the negative cable on the battery or use a scan tool.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to order the parts, then try to save myself about $300 by attempting the job myself. These are the original sensors, so getting them out may be problematic. If all else fails, I have AAA so I can have it towed to a real mechanic.

do you guys have the 4x4 version of the '04 F150? I've heard of many issues with that tranny but not on the 2wd.

With that said, my '04 F150 2wd had a complete transmission failure at 28,000 miles, 6 days past the 3 year mark! After all my venting, the best I could come up with is 50% off on a trany replacement. My share was $2,200!!

They told me I was lucky to get half.I don't feel lucky :mad: . I drive the truck :lemon: easy.I've also had repeated problems with the front brakes warping on me. I'm on my third set of warped rotors.

I have a 2000 F150 with the 5.4L V-8 and closing in on 100k miles. I don't see anywhere that a timing belt/chain replacement is recommended at a particular interval like some cars at around 100k. Is that right?

If you have rear drum brakes it is rare for your truck, adjust them first. Start bleeding the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder. Passenger side rear. Then driverside side rear, then passenger side front, then drivers side front.

Note: If you did not replace or machine your rotors, your spungy pedel may be due to the pads not wearing in to the rotor surface. Try pumping the pedel and riding the brakes while driving for short periods of time.

Symptom of needed bleeding is after pumping the pedel about 3 times there isn't as much free play or spungy feeling in the pedel, it feels tight. If your pedel still feels spungy after doing this, most likely the surfaces of the rotor and the new pads need to be wear in.