Yesterday I worked in a room with daylight coming through the window, until twilight and then dark closed in. I hardly noticed the cold evening outside until I finally got up from my computer, stretched, and drew the curtains. As soon as I closed the curtains I was struck by how much warmer the room suddenly felt. The night was shut out, the lamplight seemed brighter and more golden, the room was now a cozy haven from the world outside. I have pulled those curtains countless times, but in that brief moment I felt the pleasure of it and was grateful.

Whenever I have a run of several rich, complicated meals in a row, I start to hunger for something quick, simple and vegetal. These kale wraps, which could just as well be made with chard or other greens, were created in response to that need for contrast. They are warm and filling and surprisingly umami for such a simple set of ingredients.

Place tofu sticks in a single layer on pan and put under broiler for about 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn tofu with a spatula and return to broiler for a few more minutes – just until lightly browned.

Wash kale, remove rigid spines, and tear into pieces. In a large sauté pan or wok, place kale and about 1/2 cup water over medium-high heat and cover. Steam for about 5 minutes, or until limp. Take off lid and let any remaining water evaporate. Remove kale and heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in wok. Sauté several (8 or 9, or whatever you’ve got) sliced mushrooms along with about 1/4 cup diced onion. Return kale to wok. Add 1 clove of crushed garlic. Add tofu sticks. Stir gently until combined. Salt to taste.

Serve a heap of the kale mixture on a warmed pita that has been smeared with hummus.

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