Toro revisited

I am still in need of some guidance in solving the non-functioning clutch on my Toro walk-behind mower. The engine is a Kawasaki FB460V-DS08. The circuit from the alternator is showing 30 volts AC. On the DC side of the rectifier I get 34 volts (DC). When I flip the switch to engage the blades the voltage drops to 4.5. I tried a different switch to no avail. I've already replaced the rectifier which had failed earlier testing. The clutch itself on the bench reacts fine to 12 volts and engages. My manual states that the clutch needs 11.9 volts DC,2.9 amps which should be attained when the engine revs to 3000 rpm.

"30 volts AC. On the DC side of the rectifier I get 34 volts (DC). When I flip the switch to engage the blades the voltage drops to 4.5."

You have checked all of the connections and contunity on all of the wires I would assume from your post. And you checked the fuse for the clutch, then it must be the clutch. Examine all of the wires to see if you have one burned off at the end or severed somewhere too!

Does the Clutch "click" when you engage it with the engine off but ignition on?

I am still in need of some guidance in solving the non-functioning clutch on my Toro walk-behind mower. The engine is a Kawasaki FB460V-DS08. The circuit from the alternator is showing 30 volts AC. On the DC side of the rectifier I get 34 volts (DC). When I flip the switch to engage the blades the voltage drops to 4.5. I tried a different switch to no avail. I've already replaced the rectifier which had failed earlier testing. The clutch itself on the bench reacts fine to 12 volts and engages. My manual states that the clutch needs 11.9 volts DC,2.9 amps which should be attained when the engine revs to 3000 rpm.

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Where on the unit are you testing when you get the 4.5 volts ?
Is this a adjustable clutch or non adjustable,I'm not sure which they put on the Toro W/B

piston slapper;4647585 said:

You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

Click to expand...

MannsLawnService;5126387 said:

some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...

Click to expand...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!​

I am still in need of some guidance in solving the non-functioning clutch on my Toro walk-behind mower. The engine is a Kawasaki FB460V-DS08. The circuit from the alternator is showing 30 volts AC. On the DC side of the rectifier I get 34 volts (DC). When I flip the switch to engage the blades the voltage drops to 4.5. I tried a different switch to no avail. I've already replaced the rectifier which had failed earlier testing. The clutch itself on the bench reacts fine to 12 volts and engages. My manual states that the clutch needs 11.9 volts DC,2.9 amps which should be attained when the engine revs to 3000 rpm.

Click to expand...

Ahhh I had that problem the clutch works but will not engage when on the machine ... It was on my 30165, a 52" sfs proline.
If I remember correctly, there is a specific way to hook it up underneath the mower, I think I just layed there staring at it wondering when the solution suddenly hit me. You gotta play with that dumb thing and look at everything up under there, I think it's something to do hey wait, it's coming back...

You can forget the tests and the crap, your clutch is good as is the switch, likely the wiring is fine as well, as is the dashboard.

Ok there is a lever of sorts which holds the clutch in place and I think that piece is the crux of the matter, something about exactly how it attaches to the frame also check the actual POSITION of the clutch itself, it is a very specific capricious little thing has to be just right or it won't work... Something about it can be one way or the other way around or upside down and it looks right but it isn't, can't remember exactly but I believe it's one of those things you gotta study that thing from underneath the mower and just play with it until you get it right.

Where on the unit are you testing when you get the 4.5 volts ?
Is this a adjustable clutch or non adjustable,I'm not sure which they put on the Toro W/B

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A very good question. I checked the voltage at the two-wire clutch harness with the clutch unplugged. The meter being between the feed and the ground. So then I put the meter between the hot side of the blade switch and grounded to the body with the same results. I must have either a bad ground or another loose connector. I've checked continuity for all the wires but that might not tell me that the connector will carry a load.
To answer the other question. The clutch is adjustable and is set at .016. That was one of the first things I checked. Thanks for the Heads-up.

A very good question. I checked the voltage at the two-wire clutch harness with the clutch unplugged. The meter being between the feed and the ground. So then I put the meter between the hot side of the blade switch and grounded to the body with the same results. I must have either a bad ground or another loose connector. I've checked continuity for all the wires but that might not tell me that the connector will carry a load.
To answer the other question. The clutch is adjustable and is set at .016. That was one of the first things I checked. Thanks for the Heads-up.

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Try this,Put your test lead on the pos. wire at the clutch harness plug with the clutch unplugged and the other lead stright to the battery ground (on the battery post its self) If you have your proper voltage there is a ground fault somewhere on the unit.

piston slapper;4647585 said:

You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

Click to expand...

MannsLawnService;5126387 said:

some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...

Click to expand...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!​