I think he means that your goal to shoot under a 1" group at 100 yds is a stretch. You may get 2" or so if conditions are right but it mostly falls on the shooter, not the gun. Trigger control is key. If I was to build another one, I would focous soley on the trigger. The factory barell will usually shoot tighter than an average person can anyway. And as mentioned previously NEVER USE A DREMEL ON YOUR TRIGGER PARTS to remove material, they remove material to fast. If you don't have stones or files you can use a high grit sand paper then after you have finished if you feel the need you can use a felt polishing wheel only to clean up the parts with your Dremel

what do you mean by good luck? does that mean it's that difficult to do?

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GM barrels as a rule, are prolly the very best value out there (IMO). One more time I'm gonna ask, is this gun for hunting, or strictly a bench gun? I understand you want it accurate, but for what purpose? Difficult, (and I swear I'm not trying to be an ass here) but, if your asking this question, it's impossible, for you at this time, (unless your the next Olympic superstar).

GM barrels as a rule, are prolly the very best value out there (IMO). One more time I'm gonna ask, is this gun for hunting, or strictly a bench gun? I understand you want it accurate, but for what purpose? Difficult, (and I swear I'm not trying to be an ass here) but, if your asking this question, it's impossible, for you at this time, (unless your the next Olympic superstar).

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oh i didn't understand what you wanted to know. its a bench gun. sorry.

I think he means that your goal to shoot under a 1" group at 100 yds is a stretch. You may get 2" or so if conditions are right but it mostly falls on the shooter, not the gun. Trigger control is key. If I was to build another one, I would focous soley on the trigger. The factory barell will usually shoot tighter than an average person can anyway. And as mentioned previously NEVER USE A DREMEL ON YOUR TRIGGER PARTS to remove material, they remove material to fast. If you don't have stones or files you can use a high grit sand paper then after you have finished if you feel the need you can use a felt polishing wheel only to clean up the parts with your Dremel

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yeah a 2" group is fine. i just didn't know how accurate a .22lr can be at 100 yards.

If it's solely a bench gun you need something in the 16-24 power range, something with a AO, (adjustable objective). I suggest spending the most money you can afford on glass. Good rule of thumb is, spend the same on glass as you spend on the gun.

Yep, the 209 is before your barrel, ($150ish) and the Kidd trigger group (over $200.00) and what ever stock you go with, (at least $100.00 prolly more). So now your sitting around $600.00, you can get a good piece of glass for that.

Yep, the 209 is before your barrel, ($150ish) and the Kidd trigger group (over $200.00) and what ever stock you go with, (at least $100.00 prolly more). So now your sitting around $600.00, you can get a good piece of glass for that.

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that's insane for a .22lr! aha i should have talked to you before i decided to do this project.

You can certainly go cheaper. With he P22 and a box stock 10/22 you can have a great combo that will perform well for what .22 was meant for, it's just not gonna be a 100yd walnut shooter. They way I went was that way, then upgraded as I could, next thing I knew, I had enough parts for another rifle, and then another. I still have a couple of barrel and stocks laying around leftover from projects.

You can certainly go cheaper. With he P22 and a box stock 10/22 you can have a great combo that will perform well for what .22 was meant for, it's just not gonna be a 100yd walnut shooter. They way I went was that way, then upgraded as I could, next thing I knew, I had enough parts for another rifle, and then another. I still have a couple of barrel and stocks laying around leftover from projects.