Two versatile recipes to make all winter long

Soup satisfies perfectly at this time of year. A simple bowl of goodness after a season of indulgence helps redirect our eating habits. Hearty, tender vegetables, fresh herbs, legumes and bits of protein simmered in broth assuage our hunger and warm us through.

Here are two soup styles I make all winter long. Roasted vegetables form the base of a creamy vegan soup while tiny lentils and lamb simmer into a hearty main dish soup. Interchangeable ingredients and do-ahead steps render both recipes so versatile that homemade soup will become part of your repertoire.

For soups based solely on vegetables, I look for ways to build depth of flavor. Roasting the vegetables adds richness and the allure of browned flavors. This roasted kohlrabi soup has many options for customization. You can keep it vegan as the recipe directs. For a creamier version, stir in a drizzle of heavy cream (or unsweetened soy or almond milk) to taste. I also like to add 1 cup pureed canned pumpkin for a slightly sweet, velvety rich soup. You can easily extend the soup by adding a couple of cups of broth and some diced cooked or frozen vegetables. I like to garnish the soup with fresh greens, such as peppery arugula, and a drizzle of seasoned oil for body and flavor.

The lamb soup features overtones of good Moroccan stews peppered with sweet spices and made hearty with lentils. Tiny red lentils, available in Middle Eastern markets and most markets with a large dried bean section, cook quickly with a mild flavor. Readily available yellow split peas make a delicious substitute; they just take a little longer to cook into tenderness. Serve the soup with a dollop of sour cream or plain yogurt laced with fresh lemon rind. I like to accompany the soup with toasted warm whole wheat pita.

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut kohlrabi into 1/2-inch thick slices. Place on a baking sheet. Toss with half of the oil. Sprinkle with some of the salt. Put potatoes, onion and poblano onto a second baking sheet; toss with remaining oil and a sprinkling of salt. Roast vegetables, stirring once in a while, until golden and tender, 30-40 minutes.

2. Transfer vegetables and any pan juices to a 4-quart saucepan. Add broth. Simmer, stirring often, until vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes. Use an immersion blender to puree soup. (Alternatively, puree soup in batches in 1 blender, until smooth, and return to the pan.) Refrigerate soup up to several days.

3. Reheat soup if made ahead. Taste and season soup with salt if needed. Serve in bowls topped with a tuft of arugula and a drizzle of pumpkinseed or basil oil.

1. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add lamb, in batches, in a single uncrowded layer. Cook, turning pieces once or twice until nicely browned, 5-7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon; repeat to brown the remaining lamb pieces.

2. Stir in onion, garlic and all spices. Cook, about 5 minutes. Stir in bell pepper and fennel. Stir in broth. Partly cover the pot; simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is nearly tender, about 1 hour. (Recipe can be made ahead and refrigerated, covered, up to 2 days.)

3. Reheat soup if made in advance. Stir in lentils. Simmer, stirring often, until lentils are tender, about 15 minutes. Season with salt.

4. Mix the grated lemon zest into the sour cream in a small bowl. (You can do this a day or 2 in advance; refrigerate.)

5. Serve the soup in bowls topped with a dollop of lemon sour cream, a few croutons and a generous sprinkle of cilantro.