I started the following build mostly with the idea of building a low powered but not as slow as atom, but also trying to do a fairly quiet build (not aiming at complete silence though), here is the build.

The first issue i had, was with the HR02 mounting bracket, not with the speaker but with the 4pin PWM connector, if you mount the heatsink you wont be able to insert the 4pin, so i had to insert it first then install the bracket, a little of a pain having to move with the fan, but it worked fine at the end.

Here is the HR02 mounted to the mobo,

Here is already mounted to the case,

Intial tests after finishing the assembly, idle and load (prime95),

And their respective consumptions,

Semi finished setup, trying to do some cable management, but its very limited what a small case like Q08 allows,

Some pics of the case closed (the PSU cover is still on route),

Now here is the real consumption (nothing connected except the power brick and the ethernet cable), which is how its going to be end up.

The only audible fan is the front Scythe Kama, but very low wosh, personally i can't hear the other two, both are being lower their rpm by the PWM 4pins on the the mobo (around 700 for the TY140 and 300RPM for the 120mm Kama). The Hitachi 5K750 isn't as quiet as the two 5k500B that i have, mostly is a high pitch on heavy load, idle i hear a little but not that much, either way i wanted to see if it was as good as the 5k500, but its not. What i did like a lot is the picoPSU, seems very stable voltages, even under load, i was a little worried i couldn't hit the 15W that missingremote got, but kinda reach it with extra fans, either way im pretty happy with the build, its going to be on 24/7.

Ross1, there's no significant difference in idle power draw between the 2100T or the 2100 (or any Sandy Bridge CPU for that matter). 55W sounds a bit high but if the number is correct the difference is due to something else than the CPU (PSU not that efficient at low loads, different motherboard, discreet graphics etc).

do you think a lian li PC-Q11 would be more suitable? it's basically the same as the Q08, but not as long or thick. from the pics, it doesn't look like you need the case's length or thickness because there's still a lot of extra space. and with a shorter length from the front, it'll allow the front intake fan to be closer to the CPU cooler so you can probably even get rid of the CPU fan and top exhaust fan.

On the too many fans, you might be right, initially i wanted to try the HR02 passive, so the initial plan was to have an intake and outtake fan only, but also heard good things about the TY140, so i wanted to try both ways, once i started building and working with the small case, it was hard to get your hands and install stuff, specially like the case pins (hdd, reset, power, etc), so i didn't do try the passive, the 2 fans are maintain extremely low RPMs by the mobo, 700RPM on the TY 140 and 300RPM on the Kama, both are inaudible to me under those condition, so at the end i didn't care to do the passive, but im sure with the 135mm kama you could run the heatsink passive.

On the Q11, i think its viable, and good choice, but as i said i wanted an intake and outtake fan, probably there is no need, but that was my plan. But i do think it will have very similar results without the outtake, probably a better choice for someone using less hdd as it uses the bottom for mounting, i was only using 1 so the optical tray is enough for me.

A couple of thing that i do need help, or some guidance are,

1) PWM fansI though it would change with temps, in my testing it never did with prime95, both PWM stayed with the same rpm, maybe 40C is to low to kick more rpm from the mobo or maybe PWM fans are not meant to by dynamically controlled by the MOBO but just to be set without a fan controller. Just wondering if this is the case, and if so, without any software i would like to increase the rpm on outake fan from 300rpm to 500rpm, can this be done in the bios?

2) Taking the ram to 1.25VAccording to mobo it can use memory rated as low as 1.2V, but i didnt see any automatic settings on the bios, i did see some RAM adjustments, but didnt understand it too much, is there are option that i can tweak so the voltage goes down to 1.25?

1) PWM fansI though it would change with temps, in my testing it never did with prime95, both PWM stayed with the same rpm, maybe 40C is to low to kick more rpm from the mobo or maybe PWM fans are not meant to by dynamically controlled by the MOBO but just to be set without a fan controller. Just wondering if this is the case, and if so, without any software i would like to increase the rpm on outake fan from 300rpm to 500rpm, can this be done in the bios?

PWM (pulse width modulation) is just a fancy way to control the fan. It doesn't control itself but usually the BIOS has that functionality. Normal non-PWM fans can also be controlled and even fans without RPM sensor.How much control you have depends on the BIOS. Sometimes you can set temp thresholds, sometimes the fan control only has an on/off control.

You could easily cool that system with a single temperature controlled case fan. I cool a 2100T with only the intake fan in my Fractal Design Array R2 and a strange heatpipe heatsink I found in the used electronics bin that's ziptied in place.

1) PWM fansI though it would change with temps, in my testing it never did with prime95, both PWM stayed with the same rpm, maybe 40C is to low to kick more rpm from the mobo or maybe PWM fans are not meant to by dynamically controlled by the MOBO but just to be set without a fan controller. Just wondering if this is the case, and if so, without any software i would like to increase the rpm on outake fan from 300rpm to 500rpm, can this be done in the bios?

2) Taking the ram to 1.25VAccording to mobo it can use memory rated as low as 1.2V, but i didnt see any automatic settings on the bios, i did see some RAM adjustments, but didnt understand it too much, is there are option that i can tweak so the voltage goes down to 1.25?

my guess on the RPM staying the same is because there is not a large enough difference in temps between load and idle for it to ramp up. 10-12°C difference is hardly anything. my i7-2600k idle temps is the same as your i3-2100 load temps. the reason why your temps hardly change is because that cooler is way overkill for the processor. that cooler can handle an overclocked i7 passively, so a stock i3 heat output is only a fraction of what the cooler can actually dissipate. such a small rise in temps probably won't warrant a change in fan rpm because you dont need the additional cooling

as for the memory voltage, intel motherboards in general has very little options to change voltages, including the memory voltage. i wouldn't worry too much about memory voltage though, the difference between 1.65v down to 1.25v is less than 1w.

any reason why you went with a lower end intel mobo than another mini-ITX mobo that has full range of control over everything in bios?

any reason why you went with a lower end intel mobo than another mini-ITX mobo that has full range of control over everything in bios?

Well didnt want to gamble with the mobo, i was checked missingremote review of the i3 2100T with idles close to 14W, and comments by people about intel being one the best into low voltage or low power consumption, so i wanted basically the same mobo on the review, but was never in stock, the only one that i could get my hand was the intel H61, so thats the main reason. Another reason is i wanted to try this picoPSU, and most of the 3rd party mobo have the PSU right next to ram slots, with the 150XT having circuits/caps on the front might prevented installing. One that i did though about was ASUS P8H67-I DELUXE, but at the end decided on the intel out of being cheaper and not gambling on how the asus might consume worst or better electricity.

WhiteFireDragon wrote:

as for the memory voltage, intel motherboards in general has very little options to change voltages, including the memory voltage. i wouldn't worry too much about memory voltage though, the difference between 1.65v down to 1.25v is less than 1w.

I would have liked it though, upon installing all win7 updates and latest drivers the the PC is starting to idle between 13.8W - 15W, so even though 1W is probably not worth, its between 5-10% of what the actual computer consumes. The only options i see on bios is one that kinda restricts the low and high voltages, by defaults says on the low says 0.4 and for high says 2.0, but i dont see any option to manually set the voltage.

Well didnt want to gamble with the mobo, i was checked missingremote review of the i3 2100T with idles close to 14W, and comments by people about intel being one the best into low voltage or low power consumption, so i wanted basically the same mobo on the review, but was never in stock, the only one that i could get my hand was the intel H61, so thats the main reason.

Yeah, that motherboard was the right choice I think. I went with the MSI H61I-E35 since I needed four SATA-ports. I get a slightly higher idle power draw, about 17W iirc with one 3.5" HDD and 2 GB DDR3 1.5v.In the recent past Intel has had the lowest draw, MSI second, Gigabyte and ASUS much worse.

Well didnt want to gamble with the mobo, i was checked missingremote review of the i3 2100T with idles close to 14W, and comments by people about intel being one the best into low voltage or low power consumption, so i wanted basically the same mobo on the review, but was never in stock, the only one that i could get my hand was the intel H61, so thats the main reason. Another reason is i wanted to try this picoPSU, and most of the 3rd party mobo have the PSU right next to ram slots, with the 150XT having circuits/caps on the front might prevented installing. One that i did though about was ASUS P8H67-I DELUXE, but at the end decided on the intel out of being cheaper and not gambling on how the asus might consume worst or better electricity.

I would have liked it though, upon installing all win7 updates and latest drivers the the PC is starting to idle between 13.8W - 15W, so even though 1W is probably not worth, its between 5-10% of what the actual computer consumes. The only options i see on bios is one that kinda restricts the low and high voltages, by defaults says on the low says 0.4 and for high says 2.0, but i dont see any option to manually set the voltage.

So i would assume if its supports it, there should be a way to tell it set it up on the bios

memory doesn't take that much power. high performing memory with high voltages will consume 3-5w at most on load. for regular memory with no load, it'll draw only like 1-2w. just for comparison, i "upgraded" from a 2x2gb 1.65v set to a 1x4gb 1.25v stick and saw no measurable difference in power consumption from kill-a-watt. that probably meant that the difference in power saving was less than 1w. but if you want to save power consumption by each single wattage, then i would pull out the 2 fans and just leave the front intake one. that'll probably save you 2-3w.

the motherboard reads and uses the SPD to determine the memory voltage, timing, and speed. some motherboards will give options to control all these features, but intel mobos have been known to have limited bios options, but they do have better power consumption on average. it's able to support memory voltages that default in those ranges, but that doesn't mean you can control them, similar to how you're not able to control the CPU voltage either. i personally went with a gigabyte mini-ITX because it gave me a full range of voltage control for CPU, VTT, memory, and PCH. i went in the bios and undervolted everything and ended up saving me 10-12w, so even though gigabyte might use a little more power at default settings, you can manually decrease the voltages and i think that ends up saving a little more power than the intel's board. the power slot is also not next to the memory slots btw.

i personally went with a gigabyte mini-ITX because it gave me a full range of voltage control for CPU, VTT, memory, and PCH. i went in the bios and undervolted everything and ended up saving me 10-12w, so even though gigabyte might use a little more power at default settings, you can manually decrease the voltages and i think that ends up saving a little more power than the intel's board.

That was not always the case with the last generation of boards. Check out the review of the Gigabyte H55N-USB3 for example.Are you able to measure the idle power draw of your system? It would be interesting to know.

I'd say even a 60W Pico would be enough - abula provides us with AC power figures, which means we still have to deduct efficiency losses - say, 15%. That is, if he chooses not to load the CPU & GPU at once. At any rate, these are some impressive power figures [/drools_in_awe]

My HTPC is nicely undervolted and generally well optimized, but nowhere near these figures. Still, I use it only for watchin 2-3 films per week really, and upgrading to much more expensive parts to save on energy would actually moot the whole affair.

Does the DH61DL board have any wacky transistors on the back that would interfere with a CPU heatsink bracket? The DH67CF board is perhaps infamous for this; with it, you're effectively limited to push-pin style heatsink mounts.

I looked at pics online of the DH61DL, and at least there's not the huge, obvious chip like the DH67CF. But there were a few chips here and there in the path of a typical retention bracket; but I couldn't tell from the pics if they are big enough to pose a problem or not. I couldn't find any pics of the HR02's mounting bracket; even the DH67CF probably has an odd bracket or two that will work... so basically, I'm wondering if this build just happened to be a lucky fit, or if the DH61DL doesn't have the issue.

Does the DH61DL board have any wacky transistors on the back that would interfere with a CPU heatsink bracket? The DH67CF board is perhaps infamous for this; with it, you're effectively limited to push-pin style heatsink mounts.

I looked at pics online of the DH61DL, and at least there's not the huge, obvious chip like the DH67CF. But there were a few chips here and there in the path of a typical retention bracket; but I couldn't tell from the pics if they are big enough to pose a problem or not. I couldn't find any pics of the HR02's mounting bracket; even the DH67CF probably has an odd bracket or two that will work... so basically, I'm wondering if this build just happened to be a lucky fit, or if the DH61DL doesn't have the issue.

Yes it does have a some small platic/chips (idk what they are really), they do touch, but to what i remember (i did the build more than 6 months ago), it didnt really conflicted much, it does touch it, but till today no problems.

The Thermalright HR-02 uses the Venon mount, and my AXP 140 uses the same mount, other versions might vary but thats what i got. So in essence i dont think there would be an issue mounting the AXP 140 on the DHH61DL if the mount is the same as mine came with. But there is something worth mentioning, the mounting bracket is very close to the 4pin cpu fan header, if you plan on using it you will need to plug the fan before finishing on mounting the bracket.

If you still want to presue intel, but you find the DH61DL too plain in terms of connectivity and feature, check Intel BOXDQ67EPB3, but cross check the little chips if it will allow to install the AXP 140.

I've just tried my new DH61DL config and I'm disappointed.For comparing with atom n270 i disconnected everething (no hdds), so it has connected:psu, mouse, keyboard, usb stick with bootable ubuntu and monitor through dsub.

Question for Abula and other DH61DL owners:When I switch on system, cpu fan goes ON, then stops and after ~1 second again ON and then slows down. After this strange sequence system is booting. Is it normal?Maybe my board is faulty?And about power consumption - is it possible to get better efficiency with windows OS? Maybe it has better power management than Ubuntu booted from usb?What do you think?

I would try another OS, windows 7 its what i use, maybe the powersaving features on ubuntu aren't as efficient or you need to set them up. At least 2 (tramall and mine) have very similar consumptions or with in acceptable range depending on each setups, if with same OS then probably mobo or bios can be blamed.

Small update on the build, while the build exceeded what i expected at the time, there were other builds in between that had lower consumption than mine, and while it was quiet build, at 3am i could hear the frontal Scythe 140mm fan, just a small woush but once i saw on my main desktop build where i could drop the noctuas PWM fans, and having such a good experience with my Q67 in terms of able to drop fans way better than anything that i tested at the time, i decided to do some changes on the build to see what would happen.

Frist,I wanted to lower the amount of fans, when i read SPCR NoFan CR-95C Copper Fanless CPU Cooler this build came to mind, while an overkill for a low end i3 sandy bridge dual core, this would practically allow me to run it fanless or with fans barely spinning.... so decided to give a shot. I open the Q08 and place it over the top of the HR02, trying to match the position of the CPU to check for clearance on the sides, bottom and back, and to what i saw, i think its possible, you end up with like 5mm on the bottom and back, the hdd cage still like more than 20mm or more away, so i decided to fully dissemble the build to mount it. To my misfortune, the Intel DH61DL mobo has a small plastic on the back near one of the mounting screws, not an issue with the Thermalright mount (although it does touch but barely), but with the NoFan95 the mounting backplate is widder at the ends of it and different in design... so it does touch a lot and doesn't allow the backplate to be flushed with the motherboard (sorry no pictures but i was very disappointing at the time), the only solution is another motherboard and really i dont have a need, the i3 2100T does everything that i use this PC for, probably will try on skylake to refresh this to see if i can get lower consumption, but for now the mobo and cpu are more than enough. I did take some pictures of the Nofan95 on the DH61DL in case someone is interested and have a similar idea so they can look into a CPU placement on their motherboard they chose.

Second,From the time i did my build there have been many others with similar builds that have achieve lower idles than me, i attributed a lot to the 3 fans that i used to ran, and while i wished the nofan95 would worked out so i could use one or two less fans, i had to go back to the HR02 setup, and at the end wasnt bad either. When i did the build i also had my doubts into the compunctions of the Sandy Bridge, but now i knew, and the builds that i saw had lower idles than me had also used a special picoPSU and better bricks than me, so i decided to change it to PicoPSU 90-XLP (very hard to get), and also saw the Meanwell bricks used on the lowest consumption builds, so went all the way and bought the 80W and 60W bricks (ended using the 60W), maybe in the future, when i refresh this to skylake i'll give a shot to 40W version to see if it lowers even more. The idle power consumption lower from 13.8W to 10.1W

Third,I had very good experience with Desktop build on Noctua PWM fans, in terms of being able to drop them very low on PWM control, knowing that intel motherboards are pretty good in terms of bios pwm fan control (and have multiple true pwm headers), and while the scythe 140mm fan was decent was not as quiet as the nocuta on very low rpms, so i decided to swap it for Noctua NF-A14 PWm and NF-S12A, and i had a NF-A15 PWM that i was suppose to use on my main desktop but ended choosing the TY150, so decided to mount it also since its so similar to the TY140/1/3/7. The results are very good, cooling is still very good even under 300rpms on the fans, at this RPMs its inaudible even at 3am being less than a feet away.

The main thing that started all this upgrading, was that i needed more space but didn't wanted to add a hdd and increase the consumption, i needed at least 1tb, so i swapped the Hitachi 5k500b for a Hitachi 5k1500, and to what i have tested very decent noise performance, and still fast enough to saturate a gigabit lan,

I'm following your links to the other topic "Which picoPSU.." then ended up here.Sweet little thing!

I read your message in May, when you talked about keeping the HR-02 passive.Did you try to run is with only the 2 case fans?How is it in terms of temperature buidling inside, and in term of noise (if you have to run the fans faster)?

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