Digital Branch of the University of Alaska Fairbanks Oral History Program

Mark Twight

Mark is emerging as a visionary master of what he describes as "extreme alpinism." This is a combination of expedition style preparation and a lightning fast, completely committed alpine ascent. A son of a park ranger, Mark grew up with a love of the outdoors and opportunities to learn the intricacies of technical climbing. Mark describes his climbing philosophy and technique in an intriguing account of how he and partners Steve House and Scott Backes climbed the Czech Direct Route in about 60 hours of continuous climbing. Mark also describes the special challenges of Alaskan climbing and psychological effects of extreme alpinism. He takes us into that eerie realm of extremity, fatigue, and total commitment that can lead to tragedy or transcendance, a distinction as fragile as a front-point on blue ice.