something was left on and the battery was just about drained so I charged it up and now the drivers door window will not work at all and the door locks either side or the fobs will not work the remote start fob will flash the lights but no locks

I am thinking the bcm is at fault but not really sure about that need some help here this is annoying and my wife would like to have her window working

also the fan will only work on #4 I read in here a while back that there is a switch in the air box that has a burnt wire or thristor but I cant remember for sure and where is this located at and what is the easiest fix for this and what has to be disassembled

My wife thinks this is a substandard truck so I need to get this fixed :D

The BCM does weird things when it doesn't get enough voltage, so the discharged battery probably caused this. It should return to normal in a few days.
Here is the link to the thread on replacing the connector and resistor for the blower motor:viewtopic.php?f=8&t=48293

well I did all that was told on here again mabe if it doesnt work the first time try it again

I disconected the battery totally went in and ate dinner after a couple of hrs I went back out and touched the pos and neg cables together and then waited for a couple of minutes for the computers to totally discharge and hooked it back up and everything works

and we wonder why the big three are going bankrupt if I would have takne it to the dealer it would have cost me 150+ to have them do it and they would have replaced the computer I called the dealership and they said that when this happens the computer is usually bad

I just wanted to thank you guys for posting on this subject. I had some transmission work done (replaced the input drum, didn't look like hardened steel to me, only 36k on the truck and it was stripped clean) and after that my driver's side window and remote locks stopped working.

I took it to a dealer thinking they could just reset something and I'd be on my way. HAhahahaha. $92 just to diagnose the problem then they told me I needed a new Driver Door Module for $550 and they couldn't be sure that would solve the problem.

I said thanks, but no thanks. I took it home, checked the battery: fine. Disconnected the negative wire for a while as suggested here: no good. Completely disconnected the battery over night and this morning windows and locks were working fine.

Thanks to you guys I saved at least $550 and avoided that horrible feeling of paying for something that was totally unnecessary.

well I did all that was told on here again mabe if it doesnt work the first time try it again

I disconected the battery totally went in and ate dinner after a couple of hrs I went back out and touched the pos and neg cables together and then waited for a couple of minutes for the computers to totally discharge and hooked it back up and everything works

and we wonder why the big three are going bankrupt if I would have takne it to the dealer it would have cost me 150+ to have them do it and they would have replaced the computer I called the dealership and they said that when this happens the computer is usually bad

any way thanks to the forum you saved me lots of $$$$$$

Thanks! Did the same thing and my locks work and driver side window, too! Added bonus, the ubiquitous "check engine" light went out too!

Good to know about this fix. Left the lights on and ran the battery down. Jumped it and everthing looked good untill I tried to roll the window down. Then found the locking system did not work either.

I disconnected the battery cables and shorted them together and came back in an hour and reconnected them and all works good now. my colorado is a 2006, I wonder if they have fixed this quirck in the newer models.

Ok...so this of course happened to my 2005 colorado crew cab/3.5L.I have read so many posts and threads my head hurts. My SUGGESTION....Pull the passenger side kick panel and threshold plastic. Make sure the ignition switch is off! Grab the BLACK wire harness on top, wiggle and push it in firmly. Start the truck and let it run for several minutes(maybe 5 or so) so the computer and control module can do what their best at. Shut the truck off and start again. Put in gear and you should hear the door locks activate again and your driver side window should work again. If that doesn't do the trick, unplug the black harness again(with the ignition off), spray wd40 into any connection that has corrosion and blow connection clean with air. Apply dielectric grease to the connections. Plug back in and let the truck run like I said above. So here's my summary....These trucks along with many other vehicles don't have the greatest fuse block grounding system. Therefore I have found many times in many vehicles that the problem often but not always, lies in the connectors having corrosion or just simply needs a little wiggle from driving vibrations. This fix also works well for the heater motor under the dash because they almost always corrode and need to be cleaned/greased and or replaced. So if you want to listen to the experts?? online or take it to a dealer and have them DIAGNOSE THE BODY CONTROL MODULE AND REPLACE IT FOR $4-$600.00 after they re-program it, feel free to do so if my way doesn't fix it. If you do this, send me an email for my address so you can send me your old BCM, and I will have it reprogrammed so I can use it if mine actually does go bad. BTW....Shorting your pos and neg cable together is not suggested on a computer controlled vehicle!!!!! This is my first post and If this does help anyone, I would really appreciate your feedback. I'm just a single dad of twin 13 year old girls.....so money means a lot to me!!!!!

My apologies for the long first post above...I'm not saying unhooking your battery or other suggestions don't work, but I would try my way before going on to those. My way may not work every time....but I have a 100% success rate so far and have saved a lot of people $ and time. I really hope this works for some!!!!!!

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