Glad we're still on track wrt the gel seat. I will write to Spencers; they did a a wonderful job on a C14 stocker.

Ninja is a '16 and has a V-stream medium sized fairing. I never tried it in the highest position, but it got better from low to middle and really cut down on wind buffet. It also appeared to make the bike a bit more susceptible to crosswinds. N1k has a steeper fork angle than B1250SA, so in general it feels more responsive to inputs - both internally and externally generated. I think I had it in low-power mode because it didn't jump like my Bandit when caned. The N1k bodywork sort of cocoons your lower legs, which is both good and bad: better wind protection, but less room to move your legs around. I reversed my footpeg mounts, and so would do something similar if owning a Ninja. Would also have to install bar risers, and most of all a better seat. My favorite feature of the Kawa was the external adjuster for rear preload. My Cogent shock is much easier to adjust than oem, but it still requires a spanner and removal of the left heel guard. Speaking of guards, I haven't seen any hand guards for the Ninja like the DL1k ones you can easily adapt to the Bandit. I would need a much more comprehensive test session with the Kawa before deciding if it would make a desirable upgrade. More fun to ride, but not as comfortable as the bike I've been improving for the past 8 years.

wrt swapping in FA front bodywork, the first thing to check would be the multipin connector that attaches to the back of the gauge cluster. If those are the same, I would say it's doable.

I was seriously looking at the N1K and Yamaha FZ1 before I settled on the Bandit. I really wanted the FZ1. After sitting on and investigating the N1K I decided it was too sporty and needed too much modification to make it a good sport-TOURER. Then I asked my insurance man what the premium would be on the FZ1 and N1K. That ended the investigation of those two bikes. Haven't regretted the purchase of the Bandit as a "do all" bike as a back up to my FJR1300.

Not sure if my Bandit is a FA. When I get off my can I will go out and see.

I did look at the pictures on the website of the Bandit CC job. Don't think it was your installation of the CC that I saw.

Thinking of tearing down the Bandit for complete maintenance and at that time I will install the PAIR removal kit and perhaps take off the CC on my FJR for installation on the Bandit. Then I may sell my FJR1300 when I return it to all stock and detail.

The FA was a few year run where Zuki tried to shoehorn the Bandit into the Sportbike segment with a full fairing set and GSXRish front end. Did not work as the rest of the bike was unchanged and while the Bandit is a wonderful all arounder, a full on sport bike she is not.

The FA was a few year run where Zuki tried to shoehorn the Bandit into the Sportbike segment with a full fairing set and GSXRish front end. Did not work as the rest of the bike was unchanged and while the Bandit is a wonderful all arounder, a full on sport bike she is not.

And I am glad the Bandit is not a full on sport bike. Last Summer 3,000 miles in ten days, 50+ MPG, smooth and comfortable, sure beats the heck out of one of those "monkey on a football" bikes.

By the way, I am going to a track day with buddies this Spring when the track opens up. Sticky tires, suspension adjustments, more power than stock and twenty-five pounds lighter. I am looking forward to seeing how it stacks up against the sport bikes. My buddies are expert level track guys. We stay very close on the street so I am curious how the Bandit will do when we put our leathers on.

wrt FA: I had assumed that the newer fairing on that one gave better wind protection. I'll ask Dale some time; he had an FA that he sold to a customer.

Since TWT seems to have lost my last post on the CC install, here is the short version of what was different about mine:

There are two different sets of instructions in the one thread: 1250Pete had an S [no ABS], while Davo had the SA. If your Bandit doesn't have ABS you can just put the servo unit above the shock as 1250Pete did. In that case, the only difference with mine was drilling a hole in the #1 intake pipe and inserting a brass nipple to provide vacuum, instead of tapping into the vacuum manifold that feeds IAP sensor (no. 1). Looking from the rear, the hole is at about 11:00 and the nipple nicely clears the head in front and the throttle body behind. Not sure Pete used a vacuum canister, but I would recommend. You can probably get all that done without touching the PAIR, but it's a lot easier to work without all that plumbing in the way.

Here is a pic across the top of the engine after the PAIR removal was installed.

Did your PAIR removal kit come with the electrical connector to replace the stock one? I want to order this very soon and am investigating where to buy the plates. Not sure if I need the connector. But it would seem so.

Scott is shutting down MM and has sold a lot of his stock to Dale, including the remaining PAIR removal units. Last I heard, there were still a few left. Part of the install involves cutting the wires coming from the sensor between #1 and #2 plugs and connecting them to a supplied resistor. Unfortunately, all his r/r relocating brackets were gone when I tried to order one before Christmas. I did get a set of mirror extenders.bb

Scott is shutting down MM and has sold a lot of his stock to Dale, including the remaining PAIR removal units. Last I heard, there were still a few left. Part of the install involves cutting the wires coming from the sensor between #1 and #2 plugs and connecting them to a supplied resistor. Unfortunately, all his r/r relocating brackets were gone when I tried to order one before Christmas. I did get a set of mirror extenders.bb

Too bad he is closing down. I went to his site yesterday and did see a few things he was discounting. I just need to know if I eliminate the hoses and stuff do I need to replace the stock PAIR chingus with a resistor to replicate a signal back to the ECU.

Looking to replicate your sprocket choice, but the shop can't find 19-tooth sprockets; what's more, they can only source 42- or 40-tooth rears.Where did you get your 19 tooth countershaft sprocket?tia,bb

Looking to replicate your sprocket choice, but the shop can't find 19-tooth sprockets; what's more, they can only source 42- or 40-tooth rears.Where did you get your 19 tooth countershaft sprocket?tia,bb

I knew you'd be contacting me. I went through the same investigation to find the only outfit in the country that I know of that sells them. You will have to grind a touch off the inside of sprocket cover. I did it in seconds with a rounded file. No problems at all with the 19t. If you were closer I'd charge you lunch for my info. Since you are not within lunch distance you get the info for free.

I tore into the Bandit today. Got off all the water stuff on top the engine and the PAIR junk as well. Checked the plugs and they look good. Was curious how they would look after I put the 4-1 full exhaust(no catalytic converter) on and did an air box mod. Runs great, no pinging or overheating has great throttle response and gets 50+ MPG!!!. I expected the plugs to be white/as new! So in the next days I will check the valve clearances and do all the maintenance.

I goofed up and my PAIR block off plates that I ordered went to my old address! My daughter sent them to me and I should get them tomorrow. I located a 330 ohm resistor for pocket change and that will send a signal to the ECU that the PAIR junk is still connected. No engine light! The same place that had the resistor has many electrical parts and connectors so I will take my stock PAIR connection to them to get a new one that I can solder the resistor into. Bingo.

As it stands now I am thinking of just putting the valve cover back on and calling it good. Tomorrow I may get up and pull the FI to get to the cam chain tensioner and then adjust most of the valves to the loosest stock setting. Not sure if I will change my mind over night.

Seeing as they are only going to get tighter, I would suggest you bite the bullet and make the adjustments. fI you put them to the loose side of the specs, you may not ever have adjust them again.

I had my 1250 checked, shortly after I got it. Had 20,700 miles on it by then. I dropped it off to my friends at Speedwerks to give the bike a good once over, check the valves and pull the pair/evap crap. I used to do all this stuff myself, but the Good Lord has put me in a place where (for now) I don't have to. Plus, while I like tinkering and installing farkles, I just do not enjoy extended work on the bike like I used to. Might be from being a mechanic (aircraft) for the last 35 years.

When I picked the bike up, the next day, Dave gave me the check sheet and all the valve were toward the loose end of specs. No adjustment was needed and we believe it was the first time they had ever been checked. Dave said, he finds it very rare for them to move much once they take their initial set. Said only one of the other handful of 1200/1250 Bandits he has worked on needed an initial adjustment ( must have been tight like yours ). other than that, no other adjustment were needed. That included my 02 1200 with 97000 miles on it. Over the course of those mile he made an adjustment couple time, but not because it really needed. He is very detail oriented and the adjustments he made were because he was there anyway and being tappets, it was a simple matter to put both valves for a follower at the same exact gap.

Seeing as they are only going to get tighter, I would suggest you bite the bullet and make the adjustments. fI you put them to the loose side of the specs, you may not ever have adjust them again.

I had my 1250 checked, shortly after I got it. Had 20,700 miles on it by then. I dropped it off to my friends at Speedwerks to give the bike a good once over, check the valves and pull the pair/evap crap. I used to do all this stuff myself, but the Good Lord has put me in a place where (for now) I don't have to. Plus, while I like tinkering and installing farkles, I just do not enjoy extended work on the bike like I used to. Might be from being a mechanic (aircraft) for the last 35 years.

When I picked the bike up, the next day, Dave gave me the check sheet and all the valve were toward the loose end of specs. No adjustment was needed and we believe it was the first time they had ever been checked. Dave said, he finds it very rare for them to move much once they take their initial set. Said only one of the other handful of 1200/1250 Bandits he has worked on needed an initial adjustment ( must have been tight like yours ). other than that, no other adjustment were needed. That included my 02 1200 with 97000 miles on it. Over the course of those mile he made an adjustment couple time, but not because it really needed. He is very detail oriented and the adjustments he made were because he was there anyway and being tappets, it was a simple matter to put both valves for a follower at the same exact gap.

When I did my FJR1300's valves I adjusted three, that I didn't need to, to the loosest setting. I am going to wait until the end of Summer to monkey with the Bandit 1250 again. At that time it will need tires again and I will plan on adjusting all valves to the loosest setting.