Since I got my car up and running a couple years ago the fuel gauge has always read poorly. Kind of reads, but always off. Because of this I have always kept an eye on fuel sending units and have seen that they're typically $95-130 for an aftermarket part. I just checked ebay and came across one for $37.50 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-Volvo-240-1367253-/280933121494?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4168eb3dd6&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1288). That can't be right. The description reads "Quality aftermarket products from Avaxel.com" so I looked up the part and sure enough, avaxel has the same part for the same price.

http://www.avaxel.com/Fuel-sending-unit-for-Volvo-240_p_350.html

The price is too good to be true, so I am sure it's crap. Anyone have experience with avaxel?

coonmanx

08-06-2012, 03:06 PM

That is about in the "why not take a shot at it" price range. If it doesn't work you can always go to the junkyard.

mtd240

08-06-2012, 03:11 PM

And if it does work...you can tell all of us so we can buy 'em :)

Jon P.

08-06-2012, 03:12 PM

Can't find much info on this company, search results on this board brought up nada. I'll give it a shot and let you guys know.

coonmanx

08-06-2012, 03:25 PM

I have a Silla gas tank in the brick that I got of of Ebay for about $100 shipped. Works fine.

Jon P.

08-10-2012, 03:00 PM

I just ordered the fuel sending unit. Roughly $50 shipped is a crazy price. Next Friday I will be placing an order with IPD for a bung nut amongst many other things and will tear into the fuel tank then and let you guys know how everything works out.

Is there an article out there for dropping a 240 fuel tank? I think I have a hose cracked and I am trying to learn all the different parts and what they do for the fuel system.

I bought one used from a guy on this forum. Works great. fcpgroton.com has a good price for the bung nut and don't forget the rubber seal, you'll want to replace that too. One more thing is the clamps. They can get real nasty and weak with corrosion. I replaced mine with stainless steel clamps then sprayed with a corrosion inhibitor. Here's a link to my finished work.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=263578

Jon P.

09-07-2012, 12:35 PM

Unit has shipped in, took about 3 weeks. Matches the Taiwan product down to the T. I will post some pictures for some more insight to you guys on this company.

Looks good, seems to be wired correctly. Whenever I get my hands on a bung nut removal tool (hopefully tonight) I will crack into my tank and see what all I can do. Is it wise to use o-ring lubricant for this application or just leave it as is?

no need to wait for unneeded special tooling, two large wrenches held in a X shape to oppose each other, hook on the corners of the lock ring and twist. no pounding no mangling and no fuss

Jon P.

09-27-2012, 01:37 PM

Thanks Coupe, I've only heard of the drift method and I'd prefer not to damage the nut. I'll update soon as I figure out what is going on with my fuel pressure - thread to follow soon.

volvoboy90

09-27-2012, 02:08 PM

Yeah, the special tool helps but only so much... mine was rusted to hell and back, and with the tool, I still had to slaughter it.

Coupe' de Grace

09-27-2012, 02:11 PM

i can't wait to try out this garbage disposal wrench on another one of mine. soon... !

542

09-27-2012, 06:22 PM

Hi. I ordered one from Avaxel. Shipped next day and arrived west coast in my hands 4 days later. Wires correctly an works fine.

cleanflametrap

09-27-2012, 08:38 PM

Looks good, seems to be wired correctly.

Yes sir! It does look good in every respect including the correct polarity to the motor.

Except it looks a lot like your sender busted off the pipe, maybe in shipping. :(

ellist

09-27-2012, 09:08 PM

Is it wise to use o-ring lubricant for this application or just leave it as is?

I used lube around the o-ring, on the bottom of the bung nut and on the raised edges of the bung nut that locks it down. If I didn't, the sending unit spun a little out of the position I wanted it in. With the lube the bung nut locked down nicely and the pipes pointed where I wanted them to point.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af210/etcigar/Internal%20Fuel%20Pump%20Volvo%20240/DSCF0006.jpg

Don't forget to document when you replaced it!
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af210/etcigar/Internal%20Fuel%20Pump%20Volvo%20240/DSCF00012.jpg

Sprayed it down with this stuff. Hopefully it will keep it from corroding so badly again.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af210/etcigar/Internal%20Fuel%20Pump%20Volvo%20240/DSCF0011.jpg

nel621

09-27-2012, 10:17 PM

I just ordered the fuel sending unit. Roughly $50 shipped is a crazy price. Next Friday I will be placing an order with IPD for a bung nut amongst many other things and will tear into the fuel tank then and let you guys know how everything works out.

Is there an article out there for dropping a 240 fuel tank? I think I have a hose cracked and I am trying to learn all the different parts and what they do for the fuel system.

what year is your car? I may need one of these for an 81.

Jon P.

09-28-2012, 02:15 PM

My car is a '91

Yes sir! It does look good in every respect including the correct polarity to the motor.

Except it looks a lot like your sender busted off the pipe, maybe in shipping. :(
I knew something was off, I couldn't figure out how to attach that back on. Any suggestions?

mtd240

10-04-2012, 12:58 PM

Anyone else ordered and had it come in two pieces like Jon. P?

cleanflametrap

10-04-2012, 02:54 PM

My car is a '91

I knew something was off, I couldn't figure out how to attach that back on. Any suggestions?

Hmmm. Not easy to send back is it. A torch and brazing rod would be my guess. I think I'd have to remove the resistor assembly to keep it from the heat. I think that was spot welded together. Someone on BB posted the Avaxel idea and I suggested ordering two, seriously, for the chance one would arrive intact. Still a bargain. Is there some way to ask them to put it in a box?

I inspected the piece a little closer and noticed the potentiometer housing was nearly crushed flat. If you look closely at the picture you will see a deep curve at the bottom and the floater arm against the other side. Housing looks spot welded in two places, not sure what would put off as little heat as possible to piece this back together.

M.H. Yount

10-04-2012, 05:31 PM

Is the bend in the housing going to interfere with arm movement or pot function? You might be able to clamp it (somehow) to the return tube. But you're going to have to wire it up and play with the position to get the correct accuracy on the gauge. I just replace fuel pump/lines on mine and I actually bent the sender arm to get mine to reflect what's in the tank a bit more accurately. Worked great!

Jon P.

10-07-2012, 01:39 PM

Arm movement and pot function is smooth, the metal bends easy enough. There is an exhaust shop near where I work, I might try him first before I take the task on myself.