Pie Ranch barn dance -- a delicious slice of rural nightlife

It's the night of the monthly barn dance at Pie Ranch in Pescadero, down off Highway 1 -- way, way down, on the fringe of the edge of the middle of somewhere along the San Mateo County coast.

A handful of people have gathered in the roadside barn, drawn in from the cool ocean air by the happy pluck of a fiddle and the glow of white globe lights strung from the rafters like a thousand mini moons.

More folks meander outside in the dusk at picnic tables, nibbling on what's left of the evening's potluck -- a last nosh of the quinoa salad, a few bites of a homemade sweet potato dish with cilantro. And, yes, a couple of pies.

Soon, the fiddle is joined by a guitar, mandolin, banjo and bass. More people mosey inside, then more, more. Timid toe-tapping begins, growing into flat-out stomping, rollicking, frolicking and merrymaking -- sheer joy that jolts the floorboards. Partners have been grabbed, do-si-dos have been initiated, and it's a good old-fashioned hoedown, a slice of rural life right here in the sophisticated Bay Area, rustic and cool at the same time. Who knew?

I certainly didn't, until an editor recently tipped me off. But a lot of people do know, meaning it's always a packed house at this alcohol-free, family-friendly event that draws regulars, first-timers, farm hands in flannel shirts, city slickers with skinny jeans and tats, students from UC Santa Cruz and Stanford, kids and grandparents, friends and soon-to-be friends, and even my husband and me.

It's almost too popular -- you have to RSVP that you're coming, and bring no more than a group of 10. In fact, when I first contacted the Pie Ranch folks about an article, they were happy to have more publicity about the farm itself and its educational programs (more on that in a sec), but they weren't sure the dance required any more press. So do me a favor and don't y'all go running down there at once, OK?

For sure, the farm's really the thing. Pie Ranch -- so named because of the triangular shape of the original plot of land, plus "pie in the sky" ideas for social change and, well, who doesn't love pie? -- is a 27-acre working farm, providing urban and suburban school kids and teens with a chance to experience the world of agriculture, learn about our food from seed to table and how to develop sustainable food systems for the future. There are field trip options but also longer-term programs and even yearlong apprenticeships.

"It's an opportunity for young people to work on the farm, help in the kitchens, learn about compost and crops, get outside and interact with their peers in a different way," says Nancy Vail, who co-founded the farm in 2002. "It's about respect for our food, our land and each other."

Indeed, Pie Ranch is a valuable ongoing project. But I have to admit, the potluck and barn dance events are a hoot and a half, held on the third Saturday of the month, starting with the meal at 5 p.m. and the dance at 6 p.m. on a sliding-scale donation of $10 to $20 a person. They come at the end of a monthly community farming day and ranch tour that anyone can attend, also for a small donation.

You can sign up for just the workday or just the potluck/dance. But it's ideal to do both, to "work and connect as a community and have a meal together, then celebrate," Vail says, excusing herself to go join up with the band -- she's the fiddle player, after all.

The toe-tapping and floorboard-shaking commenced, with fancy dance steps led by caller Andy Wilson in cowboy hat and bolo tie. "Does everyone have a partner?" he called over a remote mic. "Now hold hands like you're gonna go for a walk. Next go left, next go right. Now join up eight across. Half go left, half go right. Now swing your partner round and round. Now dip and dive, zig and zag."

Amazingly, despite a few gentle and laughable collisions, it all comes together. Like apples and cinnamon in the perfect slice of pie.

Grab your partner, a pack o' pals or even go it alone and do-si-do your way down the San Mateo County coast for the monthly barn dance at Pie Ranch, 2080 Cabrillo Highway (Highway 1), Pescadero. Held on the third Saturday of the month, the community potluck starts at 5 p.m., followed by the dance at 6 p.m. Cost is $10-$20 per person. Event is alcohol-free. RSVP is requested: 650-879-0995, www.pieranch.org.If you want to participate in the farm work day starting at 1 p.m., visit the website for details about what to wear and what tools to bring.