2. Sprinkle ribs with salt and allow to sit, refrigerated, for 1 hour or up to 12 hours.

3. Dry ribs with paper towels, then rub all over with pepper. Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add pork in two batches to avoid crowding, and brown well on both sides. Transfer to a platter.

4. If you have less than 2 tablespoons fat left in the pot, add enough oil to make 2 tablespoons. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and mostly translucent, 7 to 9 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, and chiles and cook, stirring constantly, for one minute. Add soy sauce, vinegar, and wine and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve any fond on the bottom of the pot.

5. Return pork to the pot, bring to a simmer, then cover, place in oven, and cook until meat is very tender, about 90 minutes. Remove pork from liquid, cover loosely with foil, and allow to sit for 10 minutes. In the meantime, if the braising liquid seems too thick, turn heat to high and simmer until reduced to the way you like it.

6. Brush each piece of pork generously with the hoisin sauce, drizzle with reduced sauce, and serve, passing remaining sauce on the side.