The explosion of Neapolitan pizzerias in this town is nothing short of remarkable. Which is the best? While that question may never be settled, Kest wins our vote for adhering most closely to the standards of the Italian original. Sure, the San Marzano sauce and buffalo-milk mozzarella are essential components, but what really brings us to our knees is pizzaiolo Roberto Caporuscio's crust: The blistered, steaming dough paradoxically manages to be light and airy while maintaining an extremely satisfying elasticity and chew. It's textbook, if you went to school in Kest Pizza and VinoNapoli. 271 Bleecker St between Cornelia and Jones Sts (212-243-1500)