Ask an expert: What is skin pigmentation and how to reduce it?

Put your concealer stick down and hear us out

Skin pigmentation. The uninvited neighbour who does a drive-by on your skin each time you overdo your time in the harsh sun. While you may not be holding out for a billboard-ready visage at all times, but an even skin tone is a reasonable ask. If left untreated, these seasonal dark spots can quickly magnify into a long-term nuisance, and that’s one problem you can definitely do without. Which is why we roped in Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal to give us the lowdown on the culprits to blame for skin pigmentation, how to make it go away and ensure that it stays gone. Grab a notepad and take notes (or bookmark this).

Causes of pigmentationWhat are the causes of pigmentation?
Skin pigmentation implies darkening of the skin or dark patches on the face and body. It is often caused due to genetics or a hereditary tendency to develop skin pigmentation easily after any abuse to skin. However, you’ll also find that the most common catalyst among Indian skin tones is sunlight. Darker skin types tend to tan very quickly, even on minimal sun exposure, and when not taken care of, can lead to skin pigmentation. Hormonal changes, clubbed with irregular use of sun protection, frequently causes stubborn, recurrent patches of pigmentation known as Melasma. Allergic reactions, weight gain, certain oral and topical medications and skin disorders such as acne and eczema can also compound the problem.

Do any specific beauty habits lead to increased pigmentation?
Stepping in the sun without applying adequate sun block is a criminal offence as it can definitely worsen skin pigmentation over a period of time. In the initial teens or early 20s, people tend to generally avoid sunscreen as they are convinced that their skin is alright despite being in sun. However, with time, the pigmentation starts becoming evident. Certain hair removal practices such as frequent, repeated waxing, bleaching, threading—especially for thick hair—can lead to visible patches in those areas. In recent times, the wrong use of chemical peels or facial laser treatments at salons is becoming a growing cause of acquired pigmentation, and so is self-treatment by using medicated creams containing steroids.

Is pigmentation permanent? Can it be cured?
In case the skin is affected at a deep level, the pigmentation stays in place for a long period and does not recover completely. When the extent is too deep, only the superficial component of skin pigmentation will reduce and it will require constant care and treatments to rectify the damage done.

Ways to prevent pigmentationWhat should my beauty routine include to avoid pigmentation?
Sun exposure is a major culprit for skin pigmentation, so ensure that you only step out with a broad-spectrum sunscreen containing SPF30 or more. Use a Vitamin C serum—that has an antioxidant effect—in the morning before heading out in the sun to reduce any existing skin pigmentation. At night, ensure that you remove your sunscreen and makeup thoroughly. Then, use a mild cream containing lightening agents like kojic acid, arbutin or sabi white with retinoid. Oral sunscreens are also recommended as they contain natural extracts that help prevent and reduce the darkening process triggered by sunlight.

What are the beauty products and treatments I should avoid to lighten pigmentation?
The first step is to avoid instant brightening creams, especially shared by your friendly salon lady, friends and unqualified doctors. These usually contain potent steroids that provide an immediate clearing of skin pigmentation and fairness, but in the long run, damage your skin to an unbelievable extent. It is also recommended that you avoid regular bleach and steam on the face. Be cautious while trying home-made remedies as they can also worsen existing skin pigmentation.

Best treatments for pigmentation
What is a quick solution for pigmentation?
The first step to recovery is understanding the problem—consult a certified dermatologist to understand the type and cause of skin pigmentation. At times, minor causes such as acne marks, eczema and skin disorders can be treated swiftly with basic medications.

How can I reduce pigmentation for good?
Again, a religious use of sunscreen is a must for short and long-term treatment of skin pigmentation. When possible, avoid prolonged sun exposure in the daytime. Whenever you step out, reapply your sun block, wear sunglasses and a cap or a hat to reduce sun damage. A healthy diet containing antioxidants and beta carotenes, coupled with exercise, also helps balance hormones, keeps your weight in check and pigmentation in control. As darker skin types tend to pigment easily, it is recommended to treat the immediate pigmentation with monthly or bi-monthly sessions of chemical peels, lasers and Medi-facials.