The lowering sun glares in my eyes as I walk down a hill above Hookipa Beach, famed favorite of windsurfers. In a warm, gusting breeze, offshore surfers wait for breakers. Looking down over caramel-colored sand I spot a dark head bobbing in nearshore waves. Not human. With my Puget Sound mindset, I think, "Seal!"

But quickly I realize it's not a seal. It's a sea turtle.

As I watch, another appears, and another, then another — all aiming at the same corner of the bustling beach.

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