Appearance: Poured into a nonic pint glass. When I started pouring I thought, “That looks pretty f***g sinister for a lager.” The color is clear, ruby/mahogany. A finger of slightly tanned head dissipated slowly to leave a skim and thin collar of foam.

Taste: It has a nice, medium-bodied mouthfeel. The flavor is sweet at first, but toasted malts slowly emerge to give it a nice balance. Apple, raisin, prune, not so much strawberry licorice but it is present, sweet caramel, and helles grassiness. That’s when smooth toastiness comes into play to offer a countering bitterness.

Drinkability: This is tasty and well-crafted stuff. Great River usually goes big and bold (except with Roller Dam Red) and this is no exception.