Rainier tents..1950-60s canvas tents..right here in Seattle.This one is called the Tenderfoot with a flat front,floor, and a triangular storage area in the rear.It's pretty much like new in the box(probably used a couple dry times) with steel spikes and 2 piece wooden poles,manila rope. This is a nice simple 'copy-able' design for lighter weight materials if someone wants an easy one man tent to sew.I would extend the front like the back,leave a dirt vestibule(cooking area with a door open like an awning) area and a couple screen doors at the front of the sleeping area.It's a simple design that could be used with a couple trekking poles. If someone is interested in sewing one up,I can take dimensions of the floor,sides,and back triangular pieces and post them.It can fit a tight two with the foot area in the back triangle(why I would add the front vestibule if two were using it..for gear).For one person,it would work as it is..just add some screening and venting at each end or along the side edges of the floor where you can't sleep anyway. I'll probably make one when I find more waterproof nylon.I think I have the rest of the materials.

The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

I like the shape of that one a lot RG. The catenary cut on the ridgeline and edges would probably help to get a taught pitch.That would be great if you would post the dimensions. I have a bunch of material and had been waiting until my old Singer was repaired. It is finally back home. I am in need of a new project....

I like the shape of that one a lot RG. The catenary cut on the ridgeline and edges would probably help to get a taught pitch.

I think that shows more having those because it is bone dry and been packed away for probably 40-50 years;probably doesn't show as much when wet and stretched.I'll pitch it today and get the dimensions as to headroom and other things that can't be done flat. Basically when I give dimensions I give finished ones so you need to add about 1 to 1-1/2" everywhere( across widths and lengths for rolling the bottom edges and fell seams. I think if I make one,it'll have the extension at both ends because the center area is short(more boy scout length) and your feet do reach into the bottom end that has the floor..or extend the length of the middle area. If a front extension is added.."hinge" the door where the rope is and zipper or velcro it at the side point(where the canvas one's doors are hinged).More like this(I wouldn't extend the floor like that though flat screens where the canvas tent front is instead,velcro across the front of the floor to the bottom of the screen door or doors)--->

One more thing..notice the pole is outside the green nylon tent in the photos..gives a lot more room inside the front area without having the pole inside in the center of the widest part..might be something to consider. .It does take a lot of tension on the head stake for a taut pitch..I tie it to a tree or bush instead if I can't get a good stake set. My Gerry "year-round" design older ones have the zipper along that front rope line and it's a real pain in the butt to crawl over your gear getting in and out or get the thing zipped and unzipped out at that point behind packs.With a zipper down the side point,you don't have to get out of bed even to have a looksy at what's "going bump in the night" or venting the tent..just reach up and unzip it,still in your bag..and it allows your pack to stay more covered on the far side of the vestibule without having to fight stepping over it.Gerry' tents showing the zipper in the left tent..avoid opening the tent at that point!You'll be doing a lot of crawling on your hands and knees in tight spots trying to get that bottom zipper at the point! It appears Rainier made 4 models of the "puptent"..a larger one and the two models without floors.This is the better of the smaller size.The headroom isn't the best but adequate for a single person.Even as canvas,this is a pretty lightweight tent with the tent canvas material weighing 3lbs 11oz(4oz canvas) without poles and stakes.Since I use trek poles,I don't figure in the wood pole weight. The NW Hiker's site keeps talking about a "group vintage gear hike";everybody wearing vintage clothes and using totally vintage gear(tents,packs,stoves,bags,and clothing..hiking somewhere than setting up their displays in a large field for nostalgia.It appears the hardest thing to find are the older vintage leather hiking shoes.I think the event would be fun.I'm pretty prepared except for finding an old wooden packboard.(ouch!) It better be a short hike!The problem around here is that most areas are limited to 12 hikers in a group.

The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

I think I'd make the center panels 6" longer for someone 5-6 and add accordingly for your height.I think it was made for a couple scouts at the original length(figure 5-0 tall).So if you are 6' tall make the sides 68" long(56"+12"=68")..plus allowing 1" at each end/edge your panels would be cut to 70"x48"..and so on figuring a double rolled bottom edge of 1/2" wide or flat fell seams where applicable(front,back and ridge with adjoining panels.The floor and side could/should be joined with flat fell seams also..Whatever is easiest for you to make. I would add a front set of panels like the back and leave that area over dirt with a set of screen doors(shown dimensions) at the squared off front point of the existing floor panel and velcro across the bottom of the doors floor edge to tie the floor to the door for bugproofing.The center between the doors would be a zipper and a zipper up the side front side/ to side panel point..with an overlap of 2" for waterproofing..and probably 3-4 small spots of velcro for the flap.A top vent/screen could be added to the front side opposite the door's top triangle with a cover over that(see the green tent above)..stick to hold it open or a formable wire sewn into the bottom edge.I use 14 gauge plastic coated electrical copper wire with the ends folded over for not poking holes.it could be as simple as a plastic straw in there,something that will bend and hold the bottom edge out away from the screen when in use..but still roll up with the tent and not get damaged. As shown..the center ridge point is 36" long..Add a couple exterior loops at the two ridge points outside for pitching from a couple trees and eliminating the interior poles eintirely for more room..when possible.I would add at least one interior loop for hanging a carabiner and sack for stuff(light,glasses,things hard to find in the dark) or light inside at the front pole point with doubled backing around those two pressure points for extra wear and tear. I like smaller tents designs that don't need a bunch of lines hanging off the tent to exterior stake points..This one is that way if you add the front portion..otherwise you'll need a "trip-line" off the front.You won't be tripping over lines because none are needed if you extend the front like the back.However,an exterior pole can be used to pitch the tent if you want it outside with a line coming over the top of the pole and out the front.I think the small green tent above showed that setup that I can use. Of course the side edges of the floor could be bugmesh for 6-8" for more ventilation where you can't sleep anyway and the tent pitched/pulled up slightly off the ground for more ventilation yet.

The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy

Thanks a lot RG. I like different parts of all of those different designs.The pup will definitely need to be upsized a bit. I hope to post some drawings when I get the design finished, but I will probably make a string model first.

Good idea with the strings..you can actually crawl inside and stick your gear in there to see how tight it really is inside and expand it where needed before any cutting.You may want to make it taller depending on the width of your material for the sides..and adjust everything else accordingly.. If I make one,it'll probably be about the size it is..smaller,lighter,and more compact overall.It was made with 4oz canvas and weighed under 4 lbs.Using the same size,ideas..and using under 2oz stuff,it's gotta weigh under 2lbs.. I try to make my single person ones under that 2lb limit.That green one is smaller at the bottom end and weighs I think 1lb 12oz or less with everything ( including the 6 stakes,a small 12" pole,and a couple lines) using 1.9oz coated nylon(probably more like 2.3oz stuff with the coatings).I'd be eliminating all poles because I use two trek poles or trees in the field...leaving the material and 6 stakes for support and adding a couple 3-4' zippers.Using 6-8" mesh for both edges of the floor instead of heavier nylon cuts maybe another oz or two, but I'd adding more material on the front.. ..never mind me..just thinking out loud..

Someday I may come across some very lightweight material..but refuse to buy it retail now because of all the tents I already have,homemade and otherwise.It's bad enough already that I have to do the "eeny-meeny-miney-moe" thing...before every hike..

The views and opinions expressed by this person are his own and not the general consensus of others on this website.Realityguy