Thursday, February 1, 2018

Ever wondered what it's like to knit or crochet on a train? I had a 46-hour-each-way Amtrak trip coming up, and I was wondering about that mightily. What do you do with yourself for such a long time, other than try to sleep when it's nighttime?

The first thing I did was post questions in a couple of knit and crochet groups on FaceBook. Many people chimed in with tips and encouragement. According to them, knit and crochet are great for train trips. Now that I have completed my trip, I couldn't agree more!

Here's what I learned from my adventure:

- Knit and crochet are perfect for train travel, because you can look up
whenever you want to see what's going on out of the window.

- Take small, easy projects. My ideal project was long legwarmers made with sock yarn--took lots of time and the yarn was compact.

- Save the complicated parts for station stops or leave that stuff at home. Plain knitting, purling, and crocheting are great on a moving train. Lace, tinking, and other tricky maneuvers are pretty hard when you're in motion. So is writing.

- Bring more than one type of project. I like to have both knit and crochet going so I can switch off. This allows me to change the motions and muscles being used. If you only knit or crochet, you could have big-needle-or-hook projects and small-needle-or-hook projects to alternate between.

- A small plastic bag with notions is very helpful. Tape measure, small crochet hook for fixing mistakes, stitch markers, yarn needle, and scissors are what I brought. Get some of those little fold-up scissors that have a ring on the end so you can string 'em around your neck while you're working.

- If you need glasses for your work, it helps to have half-lens readers so
you can look over the top or progressive lenses so you can look down as well as out at the scenery.

- Try to get a seat that faces in the direction you are traveling--you'll be facing the locomotive-end of the train. The scenery going by will be easier for your brain to manage while you're concentrating on your work.

- Don't forget nighttime. If you want to look out of the window, you can turn off the light and your eyes will adjust somewhat so you can see what's outside. Stars, moon, and towns are especially nice. Then when you get tired of that, it's back to your work with the light on.

- Knitting and crocheting helps with my restless legs syndrome (RLS), so it is absolutely essential for me when faced with having to sit in a seat for so long. Walking outside during station stops is not practical, and taking walks on the train is not a thing. The aisles are narrow, and they're needed for staff and others who have places to go. Going up and down the stairs to the bathroom is very good exercise, though.

- Pack lightly for entertaining yourself. I had no interest in the books or DVD player I brought--heavy, bulky, and useless. Better to bring more yarn.

Now that I've recovered from the trip, I'm going to write up a few pages of train-travel suggestions for myself and put them in the suitcase so I'll remember what to do and what not to bother with on my next expedition.

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Life is surreal. That's my theme for the month. Between Hurricane Harvey and Halloween, life is indeed surreal.

A couple of weeks after the storm blasted over our house, we came home and took a look at the damage. Our huge orange tree took flight, right out of the ground, roots and all. Amazingly, we found that several baby orange trees were growing all around the spot where the "mother" tree had been.

Mother-tree out of the ground and cut off by a neighbor.

Within another week, the baby trees were blooming and starting to set little fruits. The Texas A&M University tree expert who visited our town said that this happens off-season when trees are defoliated or otherwise threatened. They think it's spring, and they bloom their hearts out.

Baby mandarin orange trees next to the hole.

It remains to be seen if these little guys will produce actual edible fruit after blooming in the fall instead of spring, but we do have pretty warm winters here in Rockport. They must have sprouted from fallen oranges in previous years, and we didn't notice them. So we shall see!

Another surreal thing is that my cardboard pots of orange seedlings from the last harvest in March, survived the hurricane and they are thriving. They rode out the storm in the garage and are just as perky as ever.

Seedlings from last harvest.

In fact, the whole horticultural scene in our town is pretty darned perky. Mother Nature is definitely bouncing back like gangbusters.

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Hurricane Harvey hit our town, Rockport, Texas. The eye of the storm went right over our house. Having been through this ordeal (and it's not over yet), I thought I'd share some of my own realizations on the subject, based upon my husband's and my experience and that of our friends and neighbors.

EVACUATE if you can. I can't emphasize this strongly enough. It's important for your own peace of mind--before, during, and after the storm--and for your safety and survival. This goes especially for pets and livestock. Take them with you.

Evacuate early.
Evacuate far away.
Evacuate for lower-category storms also.
Take all of your animals.
Take all of your vehicles.

PREPARE your home for the worst. The storm might veer off at the last minute, but it could also be worse than expected. Before you leave, batten down the hatches both indoors and out.

Board-up, shutter-up.
Shut off power, unplug everything.
Empty the fridge and prop it open.
Secure movable outdoor items.
Protect valued indoor items.
Fill jars and bottles with clean water.
Leave rugs down to soak up water.
Place sandbags on both sides of doors.
Open fence gates to allow water flow.

PACK for the coming days. When you leave, you'll need some clothing, important papers, special food and meds, and emergency supplies. Don't try to take too much--just what you need and what you value most.

Take your necessities.
Take food, water, flashlight, batteries, pet supplies.
Take ID, proof of residence (utility bill or deed).
Take a few comfortable outfits.
Take one set of work clothes and shoes.
Take movable valuables.

KEEP YOUR COOL--this is important. People react differently to stress. Figure out how to de-stress yourself, and do it as much as possible while evacuating, waiting through the storm, and after the storm.

Listen to music.
Watch favorite shows and movies.
Play with your pets and kids.
Have yummy snacks.
Talk, talk, talk with close family and friends.
Don't feel like you have to socialize.
Accept help when it's offered.
Offer help when it's needed.

GO BACK ASAP when the storm is over and the roads are open. Check on your home as soon as you can. You don't have to stay--make it a day trip the first time. If you can get in after a day or two, you'll be able to prevent a lot of water and mold damage by cleaning up, tarping the roof, etc.

WAIT FOR POWER. If you must live in your home before power and other utilities are restored, be prepared for hardship. You'll need to live pretty much like you're camping. It will be hot, you won't be able to bathe or flush, mosquitoes will be everywhere, and what you need will be hard to come by. If you have any health issues, wait until the power is back on. Even then, things can go wrong--our AC broke from a power surge, and I suffered heat exhaustion 3 times in 6 days.

TAKE IT EASY on yourself. You have made it through a bona fide disaster. Your mind will work differently. You'll be tired, anxious, sad, forgetful, and moody. This is normal, and it will wear off. Try not to look at the destruction, and focus on making things better. Be positive.

YOU WILL CHANGE. These experiences change us. After the storm, you might have very different priorities for your life. That's okay. It's part of our development as humans. The key is to be all right with it and move forward.

The trees will grow their leaves back. Nature will do her best to repopulate your little bit of the Earth. You will be stronger and better as you get on with your life.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

The Tunisian ladder stitch is an openwork stitch that I developed when searching for Tunisian crochet stitches that were more flexible and useful than the traditional ones. With this new stitch, you’ll get a sturdy mesh fabric if you use the yarn manufacturer’s recommended hook size. With a very large hook you can produce a lighter, more open mesh.

This is what I like to call a “stacked” Tunisian stitch. New rows are made above the old ones, and not in front of or behind them like most traditional Tunisian stitches. This “stacking” helps prevent the severe rolling that often occurs with Tunisian crochet.

Tunisian Ladder Stitch: How to Do ItU.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain
Chain desired number of stitches.

Base Row 1 – Tunisian Purl for first row only
Starting in 2nd loop from hook, [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through chain and onto hook], repeat to end. The number of loops on hook is equal to the number of chains made for the base chain.

Base Row 2
Ch 1, [draw yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1. Only 1 loop is left on hook.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Ladder Stitches
Skip over both the first vertical bar at the end and the next vertical bar, [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook through the work front-to-back between previous vertical bar and the next one, pull yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through to front of work and onto hook, slide the new stitch to top of row close to hook], repeat to end, work 1 more st in the end space. The number of loops on hook is equal to the number of chains made for the base chain.

Main Row 2(same as Base Row 2)
Ch 1, [draw yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1. Only 1 loop left on hook. Gently tug on the finished row stitches to lock the Tunisian ladder sts in place.

Repeat Main Rows 1 & 2 to desired length.

Tunisian Ladder Stitch: Photo TutorialU.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain

Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1 – Tunisian Purl for first row only

Make the first stitch in second chain from hook, [wrap the working yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook into the next chain, pull the working yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through the chain and onto the hook],

repeat to end. The number of loops on the hook will equal the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2

Chain 1, [draw a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook],

repeat to end, chain 1. There should be only 1 loop left on the hook. Looking at your work, you'll see a series of vertical bars going down the row. It may help to give the row a stretch end-to-end, to straighten up the bars.

Tip: when you're ready to put down your work and do something else, place a removable stitch marker in the loop on the hook at this point. If you do it before the ch1 at the end, the marker may pull through the last 2 loops and undo some of your work.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Ladder Stitches

Skip over both the first vertical bar at the end and the next vertical bar, [wrap the yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook through the work front-to-back between the previous vertical bar and the next one, pull the yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through to the front of the work and onto hook,

slide the stitch to the top of the row close to the hook],

repeat to end, work 1 more st in the end space.

Main Row 2(same as Base Row 2)

Chain 1, [draw a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook],

repeat to end, chain 1. There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Gently tug on the finished row stitches to lock the Tunisian ladder stitches in place.

Repeat Main Rows 1 - 2 to desired length.

Upper Edge

For a neat, uniform edge on your final row, make a single-crochet stitch between vertical bars: skip over the first 2 vertical bars, sc to end, and make 1 more sc in the final space. With each sc, pull through both loops on hook, leaving only the newly made loop on the hook--no extra loops this time.

Some Tips for Tunisian Crochet

Here are a few things to try if you encounter curling, slanting, or stiffness:

Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.

Try thinner yarn.

Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.

Do not work tightly.

Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar(s) in each casting-on row (main row 1).

Saturday, April 29, 2017

I have replaced the Whimsical Witch-Hat and Elfitude patterns with corrected versions. The crochet hook I used for developing the patterns was a brand-new one with the wrong size indicated on the molded label and on the printed package. To make these hats, please use US size L, or 8 mm. If you have a Boye hook that says 'N', it might be incorrect like mine, and it will work fine. The best bet is to measure your hook with a caliper to get the millimeters. And always make a gauge swatch.

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

This salad is a frequent meal at our house. We have it several times a week, because it's just so darned healthy for us. And it's real easy to make. Luckily, since we live in South Texas we can get avocados and tomatoes year-round. We like to have this for dinner with a fruit crumble for dessert.

Monday, April 17, 2017

Tunisian purl is a variation on the basic Tunisian stitch, or afghan stitch. It produces a right-side surface that looks a bit like knitted garter stitch, and it's a great way to prevent curled edges. As an added bonus, the other side has a very nice ridged look.

This is by far, my preferred stitch in Tunisian crochet, and I recommend using it instead of the basic Tunisian stitch.

Tunisian Purl Stitch: How to Do ItU.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain
Chain loosely or use one size larger hook and chain tightly. Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1
Start in 2nd chain from hook, [insert hook into chain, pull yarn through, and leave loop on hook], repeat to end. You'll have the same number of loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1. Only 1 loop is left on hook.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Purl Stitches
Skip over first vertical bar at the end, [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook into next vertical bar, pull yarn to the front - straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through the bar and onto hook], repeat to end. Be sure to work the final vertical bar at the end of the row, next to the end chain.

Main Row 2(same as Base Row 2)
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1. Only 1 loop left on hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 & 2 to desired length.

Tunisian Purl Stitch: Photo TutorialU.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain

Chain loosely or use one size larger hook and chain tightly. Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1

Start in the second chain from the hook, [insert your hook into the chain, draw the yarn through the chain and onto the hook], repeat to end.

You'll have as many loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1. There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Looking at your work, you'll see a series of vertical bars going down the row. It may help to give the row a stretch end-to-end, to straighten up the bars.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Purl Stitches

Skip over the first vertical bar at the end by the hook, [wrap the working yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook into the next vertical bar, pull working yarn to the front - straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through the bar and onto the hook], repeat to end.

Be sure to work the final vertical bar at the very end of the row, next to the end chain.

Main Row 2(same as Base Row 2)

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1. There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 - 2 to desired length.

Upper Edge

For a neat, uniform edge on your final row, make a Tunisian purl stitch in each vertical bar - including the first bar on the end, pulling through both loops on hook, and leaving only the newly made loop on the hook - no extra loops this time.

You Might Have a Few Surprise Problems

Most standard Tunisian stitches have some problems: curling, slanting, and stiffness. Here are a few things to try:

Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.

Try thinner yarn.

Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.

Do not work tightly.

Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar in each casting-on row (main row 1).

Don't miss the last vertical bar for your last stitch in a casting-on row. It can be hidden with the end-chain.