Going by what has been said above the Avanti has easier lower gears. The Reid Osprey weighs in at 10.2kgs.. Any1 know what the Avanti weighs?... Nothing more annoying when they dont display bike weights IMO...

Its a trade off, Avanti is easier lower gears but costs $109 more than the Reid. I'm interested to know what the Avanti weighs..

Avanti is a pretty good brand, I'd expect the weight to be around mid to high 9 kg. You'd probably have to go in store to see it and confirm though. Don't be put of by bike weight though, how the bike rides and feels (no matter how light or heavy the bike is) will largely be due to the frame. I'd expect that the avanti has a better frame and parts (other than the derailleurs and shifters, they are the same).Too many people judge bikes by their weight, which is why (I think) most manufacturers don't display their bike weights. Unless you are a professional where every second counts) generally total bike weight doesn't matter too much and it will mainly only affect you when you are climbing or accelerating. Here is a video I found by durian riders about weight http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UisTybib ... plpp_video

Philipthelam wrote:Avanti is a pretty good brand, I'd expect the weight to be around mid to high 9 kg. You'd probably have to go in store to see it and confirm though. Don't be put of by bike weight though, how the bike rides and feels (no matter how light or heavy the bike is) will largely be due to the frame. I'd expect that the avanti has a better frame and parts (other than the derailleurs and shifters, they are the same).

I'm needing to get on a few bikes and actually test ride them so i can see what i like. To me it won't really make that much of a difference if one bike is 500 grams heavier or lighter. However, the gearing ratios could so i need to see if I can handle the Reid bike and then a similar price range bike.

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

Well my best criterium result so far was on my 13kg steel Mercier rather than my 9.5kg aluminium Scott. Weight does make a bit of difference uphill but on the flat i find heavier bikes feel really good, as though the inertia helps. In any case 10.2kgs is NOT excessive for an entry level bike, hell my Scott Speedster S40 can get heavier than that with water bottles and lights.

As for the 42t chainring, that was perfectly acceptable for every tom, dick and harry in the 70s, but people are weaker now? I've done a lot of riding with 42-27 as the granny and for someone starting out, if a hill is too steep to ride with that gear, it's too steep to ride. Once the fitness gets up a bit 42-27 will take most hills.

I've had (and have) some expensive bikes, and some cheap ones ($98 Repco single speed comes to mind), that Reid looks serviceable to me. Sure it's nothing special but Tektro brakes are fine (my favourite bike has Tektros), Quando hubs do the job (also on my favourite bike), and Shimano 2300 gear works. And it has carbon fibre forks.

When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.

ldrcycles wrote:As for the 42t chainring, that was perfectly acceptable for every tom, dick and harry in the 70s, but people are weaker now? I've done a lot of riding with 42-27 as the granny and for someone starting out, if a hill is too steep to ride with that gear, it's too steep to ride. Once the fitness gets up a bit 42-27 will take most hills.

99% chance its the 12-25 - because thats pretty much all shimano does in 8 speed anymore, and I didn't say it was unridable, I said it was casual unfriendly.

Ah ok, i was just going off AndrewBurns comment saying he thought it was a 27, 42-25 is getting a little restrictive but honestly i think 42-27 is not at all excessive for a new rider. The limiting factor in going uphill (going off the experiences from attempting to get my fiancee into cycling) is not gearing but fitness, in her case even a 22-28 wasn't low enough, because she just didn't have any aerobic capacity. I think any hill that will have a newbie walking with a 42-27 will have them walking with any gear (one hill i have done with 42-27 was utterly unachievable with 28-30 when i was just starting out).

When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.

Philipthelam wrote:Mulger Bill can you tell us which bike you are test riding now

I've dropped enough hints in other threads, test your search skills

Looks like we have a full carbon frame on the horizon.

Nice try but no. No mention of full CF from Reid in my last few chats. This is a lot simpler. Maybe I should have said recent posts...Now if they were to source a Dengfu Fm059 frame, I'd happily assist with development of a monster commuter

...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.London Boy 29/12/2011

Mulger bill wrote:Nice try but no. No mention of full CF from Reid in my last few chats. This is a lot simpler. Maybe I should have said recent posts...Now if they were to source a Dengfu Fm059 frame, I'd happily assist with development of a monster commuter

I'm going to guess a Sngle speed, probably fixed for a review.

bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.

ldrcycles wrote:As for the 42t chainring, that was perfectly acceptable for every tom, dick and harry in the 70s, but people are weaker now? I've done a lot of riding with 42-27 as the granny and for someone starting out, if a hill is too steep to ride with that gear, it's too steep to ride. Once the fitness gets up a bit 42-27 will take most hills.

Great, it was starting sound as if it was impossible to ride. I guess with time getting "bike fit" would make the gearing a lot easier. As im mainly a casual ride I'm not really expecting miracles. Just a good honest cheap bike to try road riding.

Mulger bill wrote:Where in Melbs are you from? If east with its hills it might make the compact worth the extra spend, if west then it might be irrelevant. Try both to be sure.

Im in Epping (North side of Melb), as it happens 5 mins from Goldcross cycles.. Not too many Hills where I am.

bychosis wrote:

Mulger bill wrote:Nice try but no. No mention of full CF from Reid in my last few chats. This is a lot simpler. Maybe I should have said recent posts...Now if they were to source a Dengfu Fm059 frame, I'd happily assist with development of a monster commuter

I'm going to guess a Sngle speed, probably fixed for a review.

Great, another Reid bike review would be cool to read. Even tho im not after a single speed.

Last edited by Huski67 on Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

On the overall balance of comments and my price budget and the feeling that I only want to test the Road riding waters. I'm convincing myself that the budget priced Reids are the way to go. However, will need to get on one and see how I like them I guess.

I noticed on their website you get free lights, pump, lock and water bottle with every bike and 12 mths free servicing. I'm guessing it would be fairly cheap items there. Oh well, cant complain if its free.. Still it sounds like a good deal to me.

Last edited by Huski67 on Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

Here's a couple of alternatives you may wish to consider. Both have better groupsets than the Reid. The Fuji has Tiagra and the Cell Sora. Sure you may have to spend another $100 and I'm not bagging the Reid but they are options. Since you are 5 mins from Goldcross why not go and look at the Roubaix and have a test ride.

IMO, (because this is what i just did) if you're just testing the waters, I'd recommend sizing yourself up using the guides online and picking up something secondhand. That price range should see you getting into something a couple of years old with 105 or equivalent components, and if you decide it's not for you a few months down the track you should be able to offload it and pretty much get your money back without too much of an issue.

As with anything, new takes a hit on resale as soon as it leaves the showroom and low-end brand names or components would make it harder to unload.

birdbrain wrote:Here's a couple of alternatives you may wish to consider. Both have better groupsets than the Reid. The Fuji has Tiagra and the Cell Sora. Sure you may have to spend another $100 and I'm not bagging the Reid but they are options. Since you are 5 mins from Goldcross why not go and look at the Roubaix and have a test ride.

Yes I plan to pop into Goldcross cycles when they re open on the 20th October and see what they have.. I didn't mind the Cell but they are up in Sydney and there is no way I can test ride one. Unless you know of an outlet in Melbourne?

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

drumondo wrote:IMO, (because this is what i just did) if you're just testing the waters, I'd recommend sizing yourself up using the guides online and picking up something secondhand. That price range should see you getting into something a couple of years old with 105 or equivalent components, and if you decide it's not for you a few months down the track you should be able to offload it and pretty much get your money back without too much of an issue.

As with anything, new takes a hit on resale as soon as it leaves the showroom and low-end brand names or components would make it harder to unload.

I considered 2nd hand but i'd rather get new... Been stung b4 buying 2nd hand goods that ended up not what they seemed. Having no warranty leaves you high and dry. Unless I can be 100% all is ok then i wouldn't buy a 2nd hand bike. Rather not find out the hard way that i purchased a lemon or a bike with a cracked frame. At least at a store there is Warranty. As for not being able to offload it later, thats cool it can gather dust in the shed.

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

At this stage its a choice between The Reid Osprey with all the free goodies thrown in... or.. The Avanti Giro 1.0 for $100 more but no goodies.. There could be others like the Fuji as mentioned earlier which i will have to check out at Goldcross when they open again.

In reality i could go for the Fondriest FZ4, love the look of that bike.. BUT, its not the price range i want to pay to test the waters in. I realise its a better bike but its worthless to me if i never use it. I could in reality go out an buy a Carbon Fibre bike tomorrow but I wont. LOL..

Hence why i like the Reids, in my "testing the waters" price budget range.

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

Checking out the Fuji Roubaix 2.0 at $649... It looks nice... BUT.. has no pedals, Add extra for pedals. So the cost just gets more and more. By the time its done it will be close to $700... Still above what I am willing to spend..

I Started looking at the Osprey at $490 but lately i'm liking the cheaper Aquila even more. Purely on the paint job. Plus the review on it wasnt too bad.. The Osprey is really a dull looking bike, paint job wise..

Just your average Cycling Hack rider.. Trying to Keep fit. Owner of a 1990's Konya MTB..

Someone mentioned about 2013 Reid range coming out soon and to wait. When could this possibly be?. If it's not too far away I may wait and just ride my MTB till then.

I saw it one the Reid cycles Facebook page. They said the 2013 bikes should be coming out soon, they said it would be available between now and Christmas. Hopefully they will have a preorder sale like they had with the other bikes when they first came out.

birdbrain wrote:Here's a couple of alternatives you may wish to consider. Both have better groupsets than the Reid. The Fuji has Tiagra and the Cell Sora. Sure you may have to spend another $100 and I'm not bagging the Reid but they are options. Since you are 5 mins from Goldcross why not go and look at the Roubaix and have a test ride.

That fuji definitely looks like a good bike. If you go for this bike for now you could use flat pedals bought from Kmart/bigW etc. that are very cheap and when you enjoy road cycling more or decide to go clipless you can buy new pedals. Just remember (I think this applies to many bike stores not sure if they all do though) that if you buy a new bike (and ask) they will usually give you a discount accessories for your new bike.Cell I think is a newish brand and they don't have a strong reputation. Anyway in my opinion I wouldn't want to buy an older bike with Sora group set simply because this year (for 2013 bikes) a new sora group set is out and it looks a lot better, it even has the same style shifters as in the higher group sets, they have the extra lever to shift as opposed to the thing that you have to press

Huski67 wrote:On the overall balance of comments and my price budget and the feeling that I only want to test the Road riding waters. I'm convincing myself that the budget priced Reids are the way to go. However, will need to get on one and see how I like them I guess.

I noticed on their website you get free lights, pump, lock and water bottle with every bike and 12 mths free servicing. I'm guessing it would be fairly cheap items there. Oh well, cant complain if its free.. Still it sounds like a good deal to me.

They are functional, but cheap and nasty. A 42t small ring is not going to do you any favours either.

I would get something like this without a second thought. Not new and might need a service, but you will be grateful every time you change gears. There will be plenty around cheaper than that too.

Maybe you have been stung by second hand things in the past, but you will be stung harder by something that is geared too big and depressingly cheap and nasty. It isn't a good deal if you don't want to ride it.

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