I first ducked into Orexi on a drizzly night, and I could have sworn it was glowing inside. Maybe it was the lighting, a sultry golden-bronze that emanated from the walls. Or the palpable warmth of the hostess and servers.

I sat at the bar, ordered a glass of wine and struck up a conversation with the bartender. By the time the appetizers arrived, I was smitten.

Orexi is the first restaurant from chef-owner John Loufas and his wife, Effie, longtime residents of West Portal in San Francisco.

The neighborhood has had a few fast-casual places open in the last year, including Market & Rye from Top Chef contestant Ryan Scott, and a third branch of Goat Hill Pizza. But, Orexi steps it up with classic Greek food in a mid-price setting, a combination that's tough to find in the city.

Kokkari has dominated the upscale Cal-Med scene, while quick-serve Turkish and other Mediterranean joints abound. But Greek cuisine? The realm of moussaka and pastitsia and grilled seafood? Rare are the traditional dishes served in such an inviting setting.

Orexi's menu is heavy on starters, beginning with a quartet of spreads ($6 each) served with house-made pita bread. The best is the taramosalata, a salty fish roe dip balanced with lemon and olive oil, while the tyrokafteri, a spicy jalapeno feta dip, needed some actual heat.

On my first visit, the bartender suggested psito oktopodi ($11), an appetizer of grilled octopus, sliced and set over a few blades of asparagus. Smoky, tender and full of flavor, this would stand as one of my favorite dishes over all three visits.

Needs salt

A lack of seasoning, though, kept others from hitting a high note. Lamb carpaccio ($11) lacked salt, while the gigantes ($7), white beans baked in tomato sauce, could have used acidity along with salt.

Entrees can also be a mixed bag. Orexi's self-billed house special is the rotisserie chicken ($17), half a free-range bird that's herb-crisp on the outside, juicy on the inside and, thankfully, well-seasoned throughout. It's a fine rendition, which, like the pizza ($13.50-$14) - thin-crust and on the chewier side - isn't trying to be more than what it is.

Lamb chops ($29) came as a trio of lollipops, excellently grilled but, again, lacking in salt and pepper. Meanwhile, the grilled halibut ($24) was overshadowed, quite literally, by the side of lentils that took up half the plate. While not the most visually appealing dish, those green lentils - wow, were they a pleasant surprise. Not a scoop was left.

As for the classics, moussaka ($17), with its warmly spiced eggplant and ground meat filling and bechamel topping, was solid. Homier and addictive is the pastitsio special ($17) - a baked pasta with bechamel sauce that's like macaroni and cheese. It's especially a hit with kids.

Orexi means appetite in Greek, and ours was sated enough on all three visits that we sampled just a few of the desserts.

Choices include baklava ($6) and the more interesting kantaifi ($7), which looks like a shredded wheat biscuit, but has a filling similar to baklava. The best was the simplest - tart, luscious Greek yogurt drizzled with family-grown honey ($7).

The more I returned to Orexi, the more charming it became. The space glows in a sophisticated way. There are mirrors along one wall, honeycomb artwork down the other. A large communal table runs down the middle, with tables for two or four flanking both sides, and the bar and kitchen in the back. The layout has but one flaw: If you're dining for two, it gets a little cramped because the tables are flush against the wall.

Professional service

Servers, some of whom are Kokkari veterans, will give you honest input on the menu, as well as suggest pairings from the wine list, which is split between Greek and California wines. Beer is also available, including a couple of Greek options, and the future may bring Greek coffee service.

So while my return visits never hit the same high note food-wise as my initial foray, that's OK. Orexi isn't a restaurant built to knock it out of the ballpark. It's a family-run place where the sum of its parts makes for a wholly enjoyable night out.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.