This week, Michael Bauer takes the show to the North Bay, where Stephen Simmons — ere of Casa Madrona, Lark Creek Inn and Bubba’s Diner — has returned to restaurant stoves. Along with his wife Jennifer Ashby Simmons, the chef has opened Lincoln Park, a hybrid restaurant and wine bar in San Anselmo. Lincoln Park earned2.5 stars overall.

The couple took over the former Fork and DreamFarm back in February, and after a remodel that turned it into “a blend of London pub and American farmhouse,” Lincoln Park finally opened in September. It’s now up and running, and Mr. Bauer says that Simmons is cooking some very good food there.

So what should you order at Lincoln Park? The small menu changes frequently, with the daily blackboard specials tending toward the more creative options. Bauer finds winners in the Little Gem salad ($7), the watermelon, panzanella and calamari salad ($9), chicken drumettes ($14) and pan-fried local cod fillet ($14), among others. Misses included an overly sweet pork belly on polenta ($13).

Read the full review, check out the photos/captions above and share your thoughts in the comments.