Stella McCartney

STELLA MCCARTNEY's decision to send out rose-tinted spectacles with the invitations to her autumn/winter 2003 show could have been construed as a plea for her critics to turn out positive reviews. Her collection itself, however, was enough to fade out the voices of those who refuse to acknowledge the rock star's daughter as a talent in her own right. Inspired by the intricate techniques of Parisian couturiers, Stella presented tailored silk trench coats and delicate strapless bustiers, in panels of contrasting silk and satin, that came over fitted black trousers or sexy matching pencil skirts in oyster, wine red, night sky blue, dark bronze, pink and lilac. As a trippy re-mix of <I>My Favourite Things</I> played in the background, with the lyrics changed to include "diamonds and rubies and Stella's dresses", the British designer who made her fashion name at the house of Chloe put out slinky slash-necked stretch satin dresses with cap sleeves, cropped, boxy jackets and flimsy bombers with asymmetrical zips and transparent pockets. Stella, who has often been accused in the past of over-flashing flesh, covered up more than ever this season, taking subtle cutouts from slimline dresses and letting the occasional slash neck of a wool jacket or ribbed knit slip over both shoulders. And with Kate Moss, Jefferson Hack and Marianne Faithfull all in the front row, her reputation as Britain's most fashionable rock chick remained intact. (March 11 2003, AM)