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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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Vehicles with power antennas may exhibit audible electrical noise on weak AM stations when various electrical accessories (turn signals, rear defogger, cruise control, brakes, etc.) are operated. Poor antenna grounding can cause this condition. To eliminate or reduce the intensity of the noise, use the following repair procedure: AM STATIC NOISE ON VEHICLES WITH POWER ANTENNAS Page 1 of 2 OCTOBER 25, 1996 AUDIO AU002-96 ALL MODELS REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Tune the radio to a strong, static-free AM station and slowly move the tip of the antenna
mast forward and back approximately 2 inches (Fig. 1). If static noise is not heard, go to Step 2. If static noise is heard during antenna movement, replace the antenna mast and go to Step 3. NOTE: Do not touch the antenna mast with your bare hands. Use a glove or nonmetallic object to move the antenna. (If you touch the antenna with your hands, you will change the antenna sensitivity). 2. Remove the antenna mast and inspect the base of the mast for corrosion and damage (Fig. 2). Clean with 1500 grit sandpaper. 3. Remove the antenna assembly and inspect the inner fender around the antenna hole for corrosion (Fig. 3). Clean with 1500 grit sandpaper.

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack