I have just recently blown the 4g33 motor in my 1976LA model. Dad bought this car new in 1976 and it has been in the family since and now after the second re-build it has gone again. I am not sure what to do, 1. Find someone in Canberra that can re-build it well (any suggestions) 2. Find a replacement motor from someone on the forums who perhaps has a working spare (or worked spare )3. Transplant with a more modern motor and gearbox

1. what does blown mean? headgasket? broken rings? 2. pick up the phone book and ring the engine reconditioners in Canberra/Queanbeyan and ask them, they can give you a quote, and tell you if parts are available, much better than asking here.3. unless you want a dead stock car find a 4G32 and reco that4. if you want better performance , look at converting to 4G62/63 or whetever your budget and the dodgey rego in the ACT allows.

"can I put Corolla pistons in my Anchortron with a Hyundai head? will it do better burnouts with 40 solex's? "...... Im so needing coffee...

Yeah not entirely sure at this stage but most likely cracked head, as the head gasket shows no signs of leak, could be a water jacket I guess but there is no signs of that in the cylinders either. Water mixing with the oil, milk everywhere! Anyway I have wanted to get it all apart and do it up for a while so this has forced my hand.

I thought something more modern would be goodMX5 BP-VE out of a wreckor maybe a rotarywhy would it be so advantageous to go with mitsu 4g63?

Man most people are going to tell you to put a bigger motor and GBox in, id say depends what you want.

As a nice original condition that has been in the family since new...Rebuild the stocko, if it can be, and keep her a stock cruiser.

If the motor is beyond repair, then it depends what you want.A nice stout 2.6 will be plenty in a 800kg car.Upgrade front brakes and suspension and you have plenty of fun, add some webbers and she will be sexy under the bonnet too.

Or from what you are suggesting, dont go the MX5 engine, shit and heavy, and very costly to get power out of them.Rotary, you would be looking at non turbo, and even then depending on your state difficult and very costly to get legally in a car this light.

4G63T, great power, prob too much over kill, will be quite expensive to set up.But at the end of the day, great value for money, and very tidy!

Depends on your budget and what you want from it???

Sticking with Mitsubishi is definitely easiest for Engineering.

And these guys will be able to help you out with a Sigma Block, either 2.0L or 2.6L and a matching Magna Head for Injection. And then you could look at a turbo set up.....

But big upgardes in Fuel, Brake, and suspension setups would be required.....

Figure out your budget, a plan of attack, and what you want out of it in the long run

shouldnt be cam timing or it wont run, could be anything but compression test will tell, dont need to change anything to run unleaded...... been doing it since it came out...... whats a flow check???Roger

"can I put Corolla pistons in my Anchortron with a Hyundai head? will it do better burnouts with 40 solex's? "...... Im so needing coffee...

OK latest developments - no compression in cylinder 2. Which means I probably have a bent valve stem. Off comes the head again and in go some new valves. I already have the valve stem seals from the full gasket kit so that’s a win. I will do that this week some time.

I heard If the timing chain had just slipped one tooth on the bottom cog it would still run but rough as guts. I have no idea but I don't think that's it because the car is running on 3 cylinders just fine.

Flow or pressure (I cant recall) check is what they did to check that the head hadn't cracked.

Quick question and I may sound foolish, is it worth getting a side draft 40mm webber on a 4g33 with a number 2 cam, has extractors but no major mods? Would it make much of a difference?

...... pressure check probably, check valve clearances before you dismantle, you might have done it wrong, it will go better with the 2 and a 40 but do you have the cash to rejet/choke the 40? could be in the $hundreds.....you could hold out and fit factory solex's side or down draft.... they turn up now and thenRoger

"can I put Corolla pistons in my Anchortron with a Hyundai head? will it do better burnouts with 40 solex's? "...... Im so needing coffee...

It already has the no.2 Cam in it as dad got that in at the re-build 100,000kms ago.

I just saw a side draft webber on ebay and they sell the manifolds for 4g33 at tweakit.net.

"All gaskets, seals, needle, seat, fuel banjo, fuel washers etc are new. The top cover has been replaced with an earlier model at somestage. It is complete with the original Weber linkage AND a brand new aftermarket throttle wheel so it can be used on virtually any car. Carb has 30mm chokes and 6 aux. venturis. We can fit the winning bidders choice of air and main jets"

So I thought I would ask here if it might be worth it. I thought maybe it would really only be worth it with port n polish, lumpier Cam and other Mods.

Oh I saw on the old site a question about boring a 4g33 to 4g32 spec but there was no answer on the post, did 'Formerly AHR205' get an answer to that?

Ah I had forgotten about that! (as that question was answered elsewhere), but I'm happy to share that info (thanks to whoever you are!)

Simply put...yes it can be done! A 4G33 can be bored out to the 4G32 size and have these pistons fit.

BUT it is not wise to do so if you then search for performance from the engine. The one guy who did this was absolutely stoked about his engine...it was performing incredibly well in rallies for a couple of months until a until the cylinder sleeve cracked.The other guy re-sleeved his engine, so it wouldn't be technically called "boring" but, there was no issues at all. As for my experience and opinion, reboring to <1mm is a good option, but getting even a top quality working 4G32 is probably cheaper in the long run to having 4.9mm bored out, as it's gonna cost around $300+ to do so...(so much for the days when a whole V8 could be done for $6 a cylinder - [not me personally])

Torana68 wrote:...... pressure check probably, check valve clearances before you dismantle, you might have done it wrong, it will go better with the 2 and a 40 but do you have the cash to rejet/choke the 40? could be in the $hundreds.....you could hold out and fit factory solex's side or down draft.... they turn up now and thenRoger

Damn straight I went back under the rocker cover and noticed the valve spring on the intaker side cylinder two was not coming all the way back up! So I held it up with a screwdriver levered off the next in line rocker arm. Did all the clearances again holding up the spring (maximum valve closure) with a cold engine as per the manual specs .07mm intake and .17mm exhaust side.

Running like a dream, sandpapered the points, adjusted timing, new plugs and checked plug gaps, new air filter, oil and oil filter.

As for the jetting of the webber I guess I would need to know the ideal numbers before getting the guys who are selling the carbie to install the prefered jets.

Dont suppose anyone knows the best jet sizes for a slightly bored number 2 cam 4g33, street car no competitions....

My manual states that the measured adjustments are for a cold engine. I figured that when the engine heats up there would be even less gap as everything would expand a little. I even thought (and I am naive to this stuff, happy to be set straight) that the exhaust side gap was bigger because there is more heat on that side?