Wash tripe and cut into 5 cm (2 in) squares. In a dry pan roast coriander seeds, shaking pan or stirring constantly, until they are fragrant and darker in colour. Turn out onto a plate and dry roast the cumin seeds in the same way. Pound using a mortar and pestle or grind to powder in an electric grinder. Put all ingredients (except half the coconut milk) into a large, heavy-based saucepan, adding 250 m/8 fl oz/1 cup water. Stir well, bring to the boil, cover and simmer until tripe is tender and gravy thick. Stir in reserved coconut milk and simmer uncovered for a few minutes longer. Serve with rice or pittu.

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