Yosemite, with kids, revisited, part 4

Continuing with my series of stories about our trip to Yosemite, today I'll cover the main course -- Yosemite Valley. In my youth, I saw the valley primarily as a trailhead -- park the car, grab the pack, and head into the backcountry. Sure, I'd bought food and supplies at the village store, eaten at the deli, and even gone to court there, but really, I saw it mostly as a place with too many people that you had to deal with to get to Half Dome. In later years, I eschewed the valley altogether, concentrating on the parts of the park around the Tuolomne River. This trip, however, was different. On this trip, I was one of those people in the valley. And you know what? It was good.

We went to the Valley twice, first on Wednesday then on Saturday, our last day in the park. We hiked the short trails to the bottom of Bridalveil and Yosemite falls; the kids enjoyed that, but a jogging stroller is a really good idea for littler kids. Even Jared wanted to ride in a stroller after a bit. When you take the trail to the base of Yosemite Falls, be sure to take the detour to the Yosemite Falls view as well. There's a lovely pool there the kids can dip their feet in on a hot day. When we were there, we saw a couple of eastern monks come and do that as they pondered the gentle power of the falls.

One of the trails that I had hoped to do was the Mist Trail. This is the trail that goes up the East end of the valley, alongside Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. It gets its name from the mist -- almost a heavy rain in the spring -- that drenches the trail near the bottom of Vernal Falls. I had hoped to go at least as that far, but judging from how tired the kids got even on the shorter hikes, I knew that was right out. Still, for older kids, maybe six and up, it should be doable. With teenagers, you could even shoot for the whole trail, all the way to the top of Nevada falls. That's an amazing, if challenging, hike, but the views are worth it, not to mention the bragging rights.

We didn't rent a raft as was suggested, but we did see others doing it -- it's something we'll definitely plan on for next time. Had it been much hotter, we might have even skipped the raft altogether and just jumped in the water, it looked that inviting. The water is calm and slow, and as long as your kids could sit in the boat without jumping overboard, just about anyone should be able to do it. Another possibility for our next trip is renting bikes and touring the valley by pedal power. Bikes and trailers for the kids are available.

If 12 miles of paved bike paths seems a mite daunting, the free shuttle buses that run throughout the valley were a hit with our kids. They're not as great for seeing the park as a bike or the open-air tram tour but you can't beat the price! They're also indispensable for simply getting around the park once you've parked your car for the day.

While Yosemite Valley isn't the unspoiled, wilderness that the backcountry is, it's much more accessible to families, especially those with small children. It's also, in my opinion, the most beautiful place on the planet.

MapQuest Presents Yosemite National ParkSee more videos at http://parks.mapquest.com/national-parks/featured-parks/. From the Yosemite Valley to the giant sequoia groves, Yosemite National Park is treasured for its beauty, its history and its opportunity for adventure. Explore Yosemite Falls, the Mariposa Grove, the Merced River and Half Dome with the help of park rangers and MapQuest.

ReaderComments (Page 1 of 1)

I've been enjoying your posts on Yosemite, as it is one of my favorite places in the world. We went with our 5 year old daughter a few weeks ago. She did the mist trail with us all the way to the top of Vernal falls! She was amazing, I had to stop and rest on the steps and she just powered up. She keeps talking about it, too. My husband said we will take her on the half dome hike when she is 12. (I did it about 10 years ago and said "never again"!)

Michelle, you might consider making Half Dome a three-day backpacking trip -- One day to the Little Yosemite Valley (A little ways East of the top of Nevada Falls), one day to the top of Half Dome and back to camp, then the third day down. That's how I did it and it's a great trip. Gives you a lot more time on Half Dome too.

It's great that your daughter liked it so much and did so well on the trails! I'm definitely looking forward to next year and years beyond as the kids get older.

Lisa, I didn't, but when bugs bite me, they spit it out, head for the listerine, and warn their friends. 8^) But there were a fair number of mossies about, especially where we were staying which was right next to a creek. I didn't notice it so much in the valley, but we weren't really there all that late.

Warning about Yosimite . I just drove there yesterday , took 5 hours . My son is camping there with his buddies and his car broke down on the way there . We have almost gone insane trying to get help . He broke down about 4 days ago. The people up there have been no help. They act like nobody ever had a car breakdown there which you know can't be true. You can't use a cell phone . The payphones charge 50 cents for about 3 minutes. it cost me 4.00 to call one tow place yesterday . It has been a total nightmare. I left him there yesterday with my credit/debit card and I finally got someone to help us today. This woman at Bulldog towing so far has been an angel. It is going to cost 200.00 to tow it ,but she is going to find someone to fix it too. At least we found someone who could do it. All the people up there except her were rude and awful. And also it was hotter than hell and they are working on the roads. We have already vowed to never go there again. So do not breakdown whatever you do . And bring your own parts. My son replaced what he thought was broken and was 141.00 for 100.00 part. It was all the money he had for gas to get home. And it took him 6 hours to work on it on the side of the road. But fixed wrong thing. Nobody ever stopped to help or ask him what was wrong or anything. Very strange.

I've been climbing in Yosemite since the 80's and took my wife and then four year old son last year in November. We stayed in a cabin and absolutely loved it. The trick is to go when its cooler and less people. We saw lots of animals, particularly a large racoon that wanted to come into our room, and deer that were fighting with locked horns. My son had just figured out how to take pictures with a digital camera and caught some beautiful photos of the deer and of Yosemite falls. There are plenty of areas near the river in which small kids can play, even with small beaches alongside the river. I found my son loved to go outside as soon as he woke up, walking in the cold crisp air with a little fog hanging over the river was mystical. Plan to do it again this year.

I hiked up to and on top of Half Dome 32 years ago this week and have always wanted to go back. My high school graduation trip was 3 months of back packing all over the West. My experience of hiking and camping in Yosemite hold the best memories. It is one of the most awe inspiring sights to look out over the valley from 3,000 feet up while sitting on the ledges of half dome. I think I will dust off my old photos and revisit again tonight. If anyone ever has the chance to hike to the top, take the opportunity now! If I were a little closer I would do it again today. Your fellow hiker from Georgia. Grier Moon

My family has been camping in Yosemite every year for the last 20 years. We also try to visit once each season. While it is crowded in the valley, you only have to hike 20 minutes to be alone in the wilderness. I usually begin my day with a bike ride at 6 am and completely circle the valley floor, Mirror Lake (about 15 miles)and arrive at the Curry campgrounds by 8 am --just in time to smell the bacon. Very few souls are awake and the park is all mine. On Saturday nights we visit Glacier Point for the "Star Show", which is probably the highlight of the week. I'll be there in two weeks and plan to hike Half Dome again, in one day. Staying overnight takes up too much of the week.

Note to "themom" with the son and broken down car. We've been taking our kids to Yosemite off and on for 22 years. Now we are taking them with their kids. Our brakes went out in the redwood grove one wild trip the day before we were planning to leave. We had Auto Club and have sworn by it ever since. I have purchased memberships for my kids til they can afford it. They towed our Volvo wagon with the 5 of us cheerfully packed in the cab of the towtruck while the driver regaled us with stories all the long miles back to the valley. We were stuck there for 3 extra days while they got parts for our old car and fixed it, and the Park was so gracious, that they managed to find us a tent cabin to rent while we were stranded. We viewed it as "bonus-round" and had a blast being able to hike some of the extra trails and events that we would have missed. It is probably the most treasured of family trips, and certainly the most memorable, as we got to hike the Panorama trail. Our youngest was about 8 at the time.

It is all how you look at it.

The park and repair folks are kind, and the place is awesome though crowded.

TheMom -- I'm sorry to hear about your experience... I've broken down just about everywhere between here and Yosemite and, yep, had my vehicle towed in the park. Generally, people were nice and helpful every time. Were you actually in the park when this happened? If so, I'm very surprised that the park rangers didn't help.

Jorge -- Yep, I agree. My favorite time of year to go is September, after all the kids are back in school. Even into October if it's still nice.

We are planning a trip there in Sept next year is that a good time to go? We are also going to go to Alaska on the same trip. I will be bringing my 5 year sold son and his grandparents. what is the best time to go? and will it be cool in Sept?

I agree with you. I also find Yosemite to be the most awesome place on earth. It speaks to my soul in a way no place else ever has. In spite of the crowds in the valley, my favorite spot is near the bridge that crosses the Merced River, by the chapel. I could sit there for hours just drinking in the incredible beauty. Those granite monoliths rising from the ground in every direction, Yosemite Falls off in one direction and Half Dome in another, while you listen to the river rushing by (at least, it is rushing in the spring).....there is nothing like it, anywhere. Personally, I would hesitate taking a young child on the hike to Vernal Falls. I did that hike several years ago. Gave it up halfway up the "steps". Those "steps" are just a series of flat rocks that climb up the side of the mountain to the top of the falls. They are wet from the mist, making for some slick conditions, at times, and the trail at that point is fairly narrow. People are going up and coming back down those narrow "steps" at the same time, and while you have the rock wall of the mountain on one side, it is a sheer drop on the other. I found it to be rather nerve wracking, which is why I finally gave up on making it all the way to the top and gingerly made my way back down. No way could you do that last section with a stroller. Enjoyed reading about your trip. I was just there over Memorial Day Weekend. Each trip to Yosemite just creates in me the desire to get back there, again, as soon as possible.

A quick response to Princess. Sept. is a fine time to visit Yosemite. You will probably have mild days and chilly nights.Think layers. The higher in elevation you go, the cooler it will be. You just won't see the large number of waterfalls that time of year, like you see there in the spring. Only the larger ones will still be flowing. Have a wonderful time and be prepared to take lots of pictures.

Enjoyed reading your article on Yosemite. I was lucky enough to live there for two years back in the 80's, first near Hetch Hetchy Reservoir and then up in the high country at Lake Eleanor, where my first son was conceived. Reading this brought back great memories!

So glad to see this site. My family is planning just a 1 day trip to Yosemite. After going to San Diego for 5 days, and San Jose for 2, we're hoping to drive from San Jose (guessing 3-4 hours) to Yosemite, coming in from Merced and El Portal. First, are we crazy to try this in such little time? We're not planning any major hikes, but since we're from NYS, this may be the only opprtunity for a while for us and our 4 boys to see Yosemite. Secondly, any suggestions on the best place to head to see the most in basically one afternoon? Our boys range in age from 8 to 15. Thanks for any suggestions.

I agree, Yosemite is the best most awesome place to visit. We go every year and have seen all of the seasons. We've stayed in the Valley and as far away as Up in the high country. This year, our trip was in the spring. Just Awesome! Last year, we were there when a small flood hit and were evacuated for a day out of the campground. Still had an awesome time. I'll keep returning as often as I can.

Susan... 3-4 hours seems a little short -- keep in mind that you'll be driving 2-lane, winding mountain roads for a lot of it. Personally, I would do San Jose for 1 day and Yosemite for 2, but maybe you've found more to do in SJ than I have. 8^) (Although, check out the Tech Museum and the Discovery Museum there.)

More importantly, the road into Yosemite via El Portal is closed due to a huge rock slide. I'm sure your boys would think it cool, if you could get close enough to see it, but it's not really what you want. You need to take the South entrance via Wawona into the park. Highway 41, I believe. The place we stayed has these directions from San Jose:

Take Rt. 101 south to Gilroy; from Gilroy take Rt. 152 east to Rt. 99; take Rt. 99 south to Madera; from Madera take Rt. 145 east to Rt. 41; take Rt. 41 north through Oakhurst, to Yosemite National Park South Entrance.

They say 4-5 hours.

From San Francisco, the route we took was:

Take I-580 east to I-205 east towards Tracy; from I-205 east take Rt. 120 east to Manteca; from Manteca take Rt. 99 south to Merced; from Merced take Rt. 140 east to Mariposa; from Mariposa, take Rt. 49 east to Oakhurst; from Oakhurst, take Rt. 41 to Yosemite National Park South Entrance.

with the same estimate. (We took a lot longer because our kids are a lot younger and needed lots of stops.)

Coming in from the south, you get to see the view from the Wawona tunnel look-out. Be prepared to pull over right after you exit the tunnel. In the valley, park in the day use parking lot and take the free shuttle bus to Yosemite Falls -- the trail to the bottom of the falls is short and worth doing; it won't take long with your kids. You might consider one of the valley floor tours; (http://www.yosemitepark.com/content3col.cfm?SectionID=79&PageID=316) you'll see a lot in a relatively short time, plus you have a ranger to guide you. Your boys might not be so into riding around like that though. The National Park Service has some good info on what to see too: http://www.nps.gov/yose/trip/inyose.htm