After our amazing first day and night at the aptly-named Elephant Camp, we woke up raring to go for the second and third days of our adventure with Elephant Hills in Khao Sok National Park.

Elephant Camp, with its luxury tents set in the jungle, was already quite the departure from reality. Rainforest Camp, the sister property nestled even deeper into the wilderness, took an even greater leap into getting away from it all — no internet, no phone signal, not even solid ground beneath your feet — the twenty tents that make up the camp all float peacefully atop Cheow Larn Lake.

But first, we had to get there. Waving goodbye to Elephant Hills, we piled into decommissioned Thai military vehicles and made our way to a local market in Takhun. I’ve seen more than my fair share of markets in Thailand, but I still enjoyed having a brief wander and stocking up on snacks before the next leg of our journey.

Next up, a quick stop at the Ratchaprapha Dam, where we got our first glance of Cheow Lan Lake and started to learn the insanely fascinating history of the region.

And then it was onto the lake, where we hopped into a traditional long tail boat to sightsee.

After a gorgeous ride admiring the jungle and the towering limestone karsts that define the lake, we caught sight of our final destination — Rainforest Camp!

so distracted by our welcome drinks, we could only manage a silly iPhone selfie

Opened in 2011, Rainforest Camp is still one of the only floating tented camps in the world. Powered by solar and wind energy and using a unique waste management system, the camp is a model of low-impact accommodation.

And we had the wild neighbors to prove it. We might have left the elephants behind at Elephant Camp, but we still had monkeys prancing in the jungle behind our camp and fish darting around and below our tents. And there was way more going on than what we were lucky to see — just lookwhat gets caught on Elephant Hill’s hidden cameras!

Inside the tents, however, was a human-only zone. Somehow, thought I didn’t think it would be possible, I loved these tents even more than the ones we’d spent the previous evening in.

And we got right down to the business of enjoying them.

After a few hours of chill time, those who wanted to join for the afternoon’s jungle trek were rounded up and set off in boats bound for the shore.

As we touched down on land again, our guide began to elaborate on the fraught history of the land beneath our feet.

The story began in 1944, when a deadly epidemic wiped out almost the entire population of the Khao Sok region. The village became known as Ban Sop, or Village of the Dead, lying in the shadow of a nearby mountain known as Khao Sop, or Corpse Mountain. The morbid name was later rebranded to Khao Sok.

In 1961, the region was forever changed by construction of the 401, the first and only highway connecting Phang Nga and Surat Thani Provinces. Needless to say, the untouched wilderness of Khao Sok suffered.

In the 1970’s, tragedy struck Khao Sok again. In Thailand, October 6th, 1976 will always be remembered with sadness — it was the day of the military government’s fatal attack on student protesters at Thammasat University in Bangkok. The forty one recorded deaths are suspected, in fact, to be a low estimate. In response to the massacre, hundreds of students fled to Khao Sok, fearing for their lives. The deep, untouched forest provided cover for the newly-formed insurgency groups who buried explosives and patrolled the area with gunfire. The very caves we were hiking through provided shelter from air raids by the Thai military.

The rebels formed an unexpected sanctuary for the environment — they may have been aiming to keep the army away, but they also scared off loggers, hunters and miners for the seven years they controlled the area. In 1982, the government changed hands, and the students slowly returned to their lives. Allegedly, the last of the rebels left Khao Sok in 1989.

Thanks to the unintended protection of this unlikely ally, Khao Sok staved off development and exploitation long enough for the National Parks Division to take notice. With many rare species of flora and fauna (including the spiders I was very unwillingly sharing the previously mentioned caves with), Khao Sok was announced Thailand’s 22nd National Park in 1980.

But the area wasn’t done changing. Around the same time Khao Sok was applying for National Park status, EGAT (the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand) discovered that Khao Sok was the largest watershed in southern Thailand. And so, before objections could be raised by the area’s newfound status, a massive portion of the National Park was intentionally flooded to create a 165km2 reservoir for generating hydro-electricity. Today, this reservoir is known as Cheow Larn Lake.

The flooding was a tragedy for wildlife. Many animals, including elephants, were forced into islands created by the rising water levels, and EGAT attempted the largest rescue in Thailand’s history… which was, unfortunately, largely unsuccessful. Of 1,364 “rescued” animals, the majority died of stress and the rest were relocated into areas overpopulated by other refugees.

It was a rocky, controversy and scandal-paved road that led Khao Sok to where it is today — 739 square kilometers of protected land that is a popular eco-tourism destination, and a sustainable source of hydro-electric power for much of Southern Thailand.

Back at camp, we marveled at an absolute stunner of a sunset and the fact that we could leap off our porch into its reflection in the water, if we wanted to. It had been the perfect day.

At Elephant Camp, the lush surroundings hid the fact that there was indeed a highway not quite too far away and at night, you could hear the occasional truck passing by the main road. But here a Rainforest Camp, this, this was pure peace.

In the morning, we sprung out of our tents for one final breakfast. I have to give kudos to Elephant Hills for being super accommodating to various diets — I had marked on our intake form that I eat no seafood and there was always plenty of variety for me, and others in the group with special dietary needs were also well tended to.

After, we had a bit of free time to go for a final adventure — a kayak down a snaking arm of the lake. We were kicking ourselves the entire time for not reserving the four day tour, which would have tacked on another night at Rainforest Camp, along with 24 hours to pretty much just kick around at your leisure. If I have one piece of advice for anyone heading to this particular experience, it’s to make room in your budget and itinerary for one more night!

At around 20,000B (about $560) for three days, this experience is not for those on a shoestring budget. However, when you consider the included transfers especially, and use Khao Sok as a stopover between Thailand’s two coasts, it represents pretty great value. The only things not included are soft drinks, alcoholic drinks, tips, souvenirs, and extras like the foot massages offered at Elephant Camp (heck yes I had one!). The included transfers will pick you up and drop you off door-to-door in Phuket, Khao Lak, Phang Nga, Krabi, Surat Thani or even from Koh Samui.

When to come? Well, basically, whenever you have a trip planned to Thailand. “Green season,” as Elephant Hills optimistically refers to Khao Sok’s monsoon, lasts from May to October, and comes with cooler temperatures, lush green foliage, and higher chances of spotting wildlife. The least busy months are May, June, September and October, so book then if you want to have the place to yourself!

We had so much fun on this trip that we made a little video! I’ve hardly been giving my GoPro HERO3+
the loving it deserves lately, and so I was super excited to bring it along on this trip. It’s hard to switch back and forth from photo to video mode (for me at least!) but we got some really fun shots and I laugh every time I watch this video — and not just because an elephant tried to eat my camera.

As filled with natural beauty as Thailand can be, it can also be a chaotic and overwhelming place. Our days in Khao Sok were so refreshing and recharging, I left feeling more connected with nature and myself than I had in months.

It was a reminder of something I wish I didn’t have to be reminded of so often — sometimes there’s nothing more important in the world than to unplug, disconnect, and listen to water lapping against your tent, monkeys playing in the trees, your best friend laughing at a story, a paddle hitting the surface of a lake, or best of all — the rare and beautiful sound of nothing.

And with that, we were back to home sweet home — Koh Tao!

I was a guest of Elephant Hills in order to write this review. As always, you receive my honest opinions and thorough recommendations regardless of who is footing the bill.

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Special Announcement!

If you follow me on Facebook or on Instagram, you’ve probably already heard my big announcement: I’m going to Bali!

Best of all? You can come with me! I vowed that I wasn’t going to travel anywhere in March… but then I got an offer that was just too good to refuse. I’m incredibly excited to be attending an immersive coding retreat with The Institute of Code from March 3-13th. For ten days we’ll be staying in a gorgeous villa, waking up to poolside yoga, digging into some delicious website creation, and exploring Bali on our breaks! After years of having to turn to a developer for every little issue on my blog, I cannot wait to feel empowered to just do it myself!

Want to join? (Who wouldn’t?) There are still spaces available for the retreat I’m attending, so check out the details here and shoot me an email if you have any questions. Ahhhhh… I literally cannot wait!

Ahhhhhh this tour looks amazing! I love the idea of a floating tent- so original. You are so right about the unconnecting- everything these days seems to be about instagrams and the perfect photo and keeping up with news, and sometimes it just gets to be too much! Thank you for writing these beautiful blog posts even when you would rather disconnect and travel freely, they are so worth it! Oh, and your video was really great too, nice transitions.Cate recently posted..Thoughts: Travel in the Age of Trump

Loved your post on Elephant Hills, we were there on our Honeymoon in November and absolutely loved it. We also blogged about the trip if you were interested in reading our review too? http://www.wanderlustus.co.uk

What grim history for such a beautiful place! Everytime you write another post and show us those beautiful pictures of Thailand I’m reminded how a one time visit to this country is definitely not enough! I need to make my way back thereDominique recently posted..Geneva – L’Escalade Festival

I absolutely LOVE the idea of staying in a floating tent! So much fun to just jump off the back into the water, and those water tours look wonderful! Love the video, too.Kristin recently posted..The “One Thing” Rule

I hate that my first thought when I see this camp is to wonder about bugs (the creepy crawly kind, not mosquitos) – it looks amazing, though! That sunset!!!Leigh | Campfires & Concierges recently posted..8 Destinations For Your Next Girlfriends’ Getaway

I loved Khao Sok. Those caves are something else though! I was surprised how far in they let us go without even asking first if we could swim! I’m sure your tour guides were more responsible than ours 🙂Arianwen recently posted..Top of the South Island: Best Bits

This looks like such an epic adventure with so much to do! You definitely look like you had a lot of fun and thanks for sharing these! Thailand is so amazing. I’ve been visiting literally every year since 2012 and still can’t get enough.

This place looks amazing! I’ve been following your blog for a few years now and I have a question for you: What’s your favorite off-the-beaten-path destination in SE Asia? Would you mind if I included your answer in an ebook I’m writing about the region?Rachel recently posted..40 Photos That Will Add Myanmar To Your Bucketlist

Hey, I never comment but I thought I’d give it a go after reading this post. I thought I recognized you on this blog and that’s because I’ve seen you multiple times on koh Tao! (I used to work at Blue Water back at the end of 2015, when it was still new and been back and forth on koh Tao since 2008). I find your blog really entertaining and inspirational – ever since my sister recommended your blog to me ive been hooked!

Anyway, except me writing to praise your blog it was especially awesome when you wrote about the October 6th, 1976 because my father was actually one of them rebels. He was one of the leaders that had to flee the government and hearing him recounting the tales of that time are some of my favorite stories!
One of my favorite bits of the tale is when the government got seized and they were trying to get in contact with all the leaders and they sent a helicopter to pick him up and he recounted that the helicopter had no doors (Thai standards I guess 😉 ) and the inside didn’t really have seats it was more nets hanging about. They sat down on the hammocks/nets and the soldier in front of him offered him a Coca Cola and that was the best Coca Cola he had ever tasted. After living in the jungle and hiding for years, that was one of his strongest memories, haha. Having a father that did all of that make sure me proud and a bit hard for me to try to beat his adventures of his youth and I am very grateful he “fled” to Sweden and gave me the opportunity to travel the world. Keep up the good work and thank you for inspiring me to travel more.

Hey Tich! How fun that we’ve run into each other on the island before. Wow, what an amazing story you shared! That is fascinating — how cool that your family is a part of Thailand’s history. Happy travels and maybe I’ll see you again someday on Koh Tao! Say hi if we do!

I'm a New York native who left my home to explore the world slowly and thoroughly. I’m just a little obsessed with photography, scuba diving, and reading guidebooks to countries I have no immediate plans to visit.