Ok...As I entered the pits after the last heat of our last race, my clutch spun for the second time that day. I thought I had it fixed, prior to the main, but it didn't hold up. I had put Loctite on the shaft and the threads and torqued it to about 110 nm.

I finally got everything that I needed to get it fixed and started pulling it apart last night. When I got down to the starter gear itself, I couldn't get it off. Now I am confused.

Should I force it off with a gear puller, clean and re-install or should I assume that the gear finally set and that the Loctite may have cured after the race was over?

Since everyone wants to know. If the clutch is properly lapped on and tightened it will not spin off and you surely should not put loctite on it....

I go along with the lapping part, but, according to the Rotax service manual it states to use green loctite on the matting surfaces of the crankshaft and hub. I always use green loctite on the crank and blue on the nut that holds the hub. I like to replace the nut whenever it is taken off as well.

Rick,
I was thinking someone trying to use the blue on the taper(no,no).
Also, why do you think so many karts spin their clutches and Barnesville when I know of hardly any others experiencing this at any other venues???_________________CMC ROTAX/SWISS HUTLESS

Brent, This is just my opinion, no real facts to speak of. I think the problem with clutches at Barnesville is due to the tightness of the track.
There is a lot of hard braking, alot of dipping the rear tires off the track surface, which spins the rear tires then sudden slowing of the rear tires which shocks the clutch. Also, there is a good amount of rear bumper contact under braking, which also shocks the drive train. I don't understand why (like in kevin's case) the engine is run all season, then one day the clutch spins, with no apparent rear wheel spin.
But, I have seen clutches slip at other tracks as well, just not like at Barnesville, there again, no real explaination as to why.