Need help with a Karnivor.

So, I've recently ordered a STO Karnivor, with MP4 RAM, Eclipse E2 1.1 board,
I've always wanted to play with one of these, and have tried looking up all the know-how through google, or the forums here, but it seems it'd just be easier to straight up ask for help, what all do I need to learn about to perfectly tune this for play?
So far the upgrades I've been pretty set on getting would be a Tadao board, and a Palmer Rock LPR, and an E2 Delrin Wave trigger, and I do need help finding a good ram, there's only a handful I've found like a shockteck or eclipse Evo or Nexus. As for inline regulator, I'm looking at a Black Magic, but wondering if there's anything better out there in general, perhaps the same goes for a bolt.

The number one thing you need to know about any auto cocker is that if it works then do not ****ing **** with it! Especially if you don't understand it. If you'd like to understand auto cockers I'd recommend you pick up an old mechanical model. It will teach you everything you need to know at a low cost and you don't risk adjusting your karnivor to the point where it won't work and you'll have to pay someone who knows what they're doing to get it setup correctly again.

__________________

"Originally posted by UglyDuckGizmo: at first i was like nah this soundtrack is awesome, then that white trash bull**** about having sex in your car came on.

That's what I was most worried about, lol. I've been just buried in ******, and cockertech, trying to get as much as I can on what should be done to it, definitely more complicated than my NXT was, but it's not impossible.

Nothing on a Karnivore needs to be replaced. They come out of the box ready to rip people a new one.

The only thing you really need, if it doesn't come with it already, is a barrel kit so you can underbore. Certainly, you can upgrade a few parts for marginally better performance but you won't be able to tell a difference right away. They are superb guns in stock form.

As for the Tadao board, I consider it a downgrade in many ways from the stock E2; I've had nothing but issues with mine and I paid the full $170 for it when they came out. Currently, my 9-year-old E2 version 1.1 is installed in my 'Cocker and works flawlessly. Rof cap is harder to set, but is doable -- but I play in uncapped (but no bounce) semi 99% of the time anyway.

So, I've recently ordered a STO Karnivor, with MP4 RAM, Eclipse E2 1.1 board,
I've always wanted to play with one of these, and have tried looking up all the know-how through google, or the forums here, but it seems it'd just be easier to straight up ask for help, what all do I need to learn about to perfectly tune this for play?
So far the upgrades I've been pretty set on getting would be a Tadao board, and a Palmer Rock LPR, and an E2 Delrin Wave trigger, and I do need help finding a good ram, there's only a handful I've found like a shockteck or eclipse Evo or Nexus. As for inline regulator, I'm looking at a Black Magic, but wondering if there's anything better out there in general, perhaps the same goes for a bolt.

I wouldn't. A Karni not only looks cooler, it shoots much, much smoother and quieter. And if you add an MQ-2 valve it's no-contest; there is no other gun in existence that smooth (except for other cockers with MQ-2 valves, of course ).

I will say that Egos have the advantage when it comes to weight and low-profile, however.

I wouldn't. A Karni not only looks cooler, it shoots much, much smoother and quieter. And if you add an MQ-2 valve it's no-contest; there is no other gun in existence that smooth (except for other cockers with MQ-2 valves, of course ).

I will say that Egos have the advantage when it comes to weight and low-profile, however.

When you say no other gun that smooth, I have to disagree. Shockers, DMs, Droids/Clones, Luxes and G6Rs are every bit as smooth... I am a fan of autocockers, but they are a little outclassed by today's markers.

When you say no other gun that smooth, I have to disagree. Shockers, DMs, Droids/Clones, Luxes and G6Rs are every bit as smooth... I am a fan of autocockers, but they are a little outclassed by today's markers.

Have you shot an Autococker equipped with an MQ-2 valve? They are not even comparable to a standard electronic cocker like a Karni which is already quite good. The only mass moving back and forth on an MQ'd gun is the bolt, pin, back block/sled, and cocking rod -- which on a halfblocked Cocker is next to nothing in weight. There is nothing "stiking" anything in an MQ valve; it opens electronically by venting gas from one side of a balanced air chamber, much like a spool valve. Except on spool valve designs, the bolt is the valve and thus has more mass and structure than you'd need for an MQ'd Cocker design.

Those spoolies you mentioned are indeed smooth, yet I have yet to fire a gun that will match my MQ'd Cocker in smoothness. It's unreal. When you say "outclassed" I'm not sure what you mean. In terms of weight and size, yes there are other offerings that are more competitive in that department. But I can assure you my marker is not in any way "heavy" and accomplishes the standard 12.5 bps or more with clinical consistency (+/- 2fps or better) and you can barely tell it's shooting. Additionally, opponents often "complain" that they can't hear me shooting until it's too late.

It has been a while, but yes... The reciprocating mass even after all of that is pretty similar to some of the top spool valve markers. I think the cocker is pretty deceptive in that it is closed bolt so the recoil feels different and most of them are quite heavy by today's standard. The old dm3s-dm5s felt butter smooth because of the extra weight. Droids are crazy smooth especially once broken in and have a tiny bolt so there is next to no mass moving back and forth. Even minis with a boss or eigenbolt are ridiculously smooth. I'm not saying that cockers aren't smooth, but when the entire package is taken into account... new guns are smoother (or just as smooth), lighter, smaller, faster and more reliable.