I was fortunate enough to get a deal on .09 aluminum sheet. They are 5x10 sheets and I have four of them. This is for the MC9. Now the predicament is....I have the options to do 8 windows and just use the sheets as they are no cutting or 10 windows with waste. I don't really care how many windows I have. I have 5 large RV windows that will be going in this project. I need swaying one way or the other.

diagram time that may not make senseXX=1 window[_]=1 window

8 window option is a 4 sheet option __________________each side would lose these windows driver/passenger [] [_]XXXX[_]XXXX[_] \ l'-O------------------OO l10 window option is cutting it down to 10 sheets

Blocking out all the middle windows leaving the front and rears on both sides __________________ [] [_]XXXXXXXXXX[_] \ l'-O-----------------OO- l

Well my busses turned out pretty good for typing them out...took me way to long to do this guys

I like light and and I feel it gives conversions a more open feel vs. a dark cave. So I am for option one. On old classic buses I like all of the windows left in it even if they are blocked internally. Vintage, classic, cool....

Logged

L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur ExtraBlue Ridge Mountains, S.W. VirginiaItís the education gained, and the ability to apply, and share, what we learn.Have fun, be great, that way you have Great Fun!

I became jaded on the windows...because right now i have spent the past 2 weekends welding structure back into place. Sooo I am a little bitter and getting rid of some of them...they are leaky bastards I tell ya.

If I were going to skin the sides on an MC-9 it would be an all or nothing deal. No OEM windows left at all, just RV windows. So I would buy another sheet of aluminium and do it all, then install my RV windows with appropriate framing where I wanted them. 090" is a great choice, and you can cut it wasily on a regular table saw with a wood blade, just have a helper, ear protection and a face mask, not just goggles.

If I were going to skin the sides on an MC-9 it would be an all or nothing deal. No OEM windows left at all, just RV windows. So I would buy another sheet of aluminium and do it all, then install my RV windows with appropriate framing where I wanted them. 090" is a great choice, and you can cut it wasily on a regular table saw with a wood blade, just have a helper, ear protection and a face mask, not just goggles.

Brian

ditto. if you're ever considering living in it full-time, you'll hate yourself for keeping the old glass. Single pane, leaky, and hot in the summer, cold and condensation in the winter. Our coach is purpose-built to withstand temperature extremes and it does this well. We've seen -18 this past winter with wind chills well below that, and the coach has seen 105 two summers ago. 1 rooftop a/c, three space heaters inside...shes good.

I feel like I want to keep two windows one front and one back to get stuff in and out. :-p But you guys are getting me to lean towards getting two more sheets $95 a piece isn't bad just didn't expect to spend that much on the outside. I am rebuilding walls with bed frame and pallet racking now. So take larger sheets and cover the windows. Dont bother cutting the large sheets into 5x3 sections and covering each window individually?

To fill in the windows, I cut two 3/4" plywood to fill in the window glued together which brought the level of the plywood even with the outside skin of the bus. Then used .030" aluminum skin glued and riveted over. Works well (for the last 20yrs) and looks good. Good Luck, TomC

The skinning thing seems like a trick. Many options from the research on the forum and it sounds like most people went with thicker is better (or wished they went thicker) for the aluminum. The other is people wished they would have used a large single piece of aluminum per side (out of my price range). The larger the piece of aluminum the more structural it will be. This has probably been the hardest decision since starting this project. Everything else has been reactionary.

With the thickness of the aluminum i am using should I back it with plywood like Tom C?

That little bit of wight is negligible, the heavier the sheet, the less wave (oil-canning) you'll have from the heat. Put it on in hot weather with direct sunlight, and if possible use a LP weed burner inside. Use some kind of protection between the steel and the aluminum. Not a bad job. Did mine with two boys and myself. Did it all in two days with more rivets than I can remember. Bought an air rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Cheap, fast and done right. Buy some welding gloves, some vice grips, and lots of ice water.

Windows depends on weather. I wish I had double pane because I wish I could stay up north in the winter like Scott. I'm envious of his set up. But, if you plan to be in hot or mild locations, and you have good AC, then the stock windows might be fine. The slider aftermarket windows are $$$.

Spray Foam - I didn't have any money (Still don't), but I found a way to do some horse trading for a truck mounted spray foam project. No regrets. I can't tell you how many times I said "I'm glad I did that right". Not like you can go back and do that again. (Besides, I didn't need that horse in my bus anyway! )

Come to Az and watch it wave lol your bus is white and not as noticeable.I skinned the Eagle with 1 piece of steel from front to rear with no rivets it all depends on what you are looking for in the finished product I wanted no rivets