Laura Ness: Mushroom magic at Fungus Face-Off

Fungus lost out to football, so off I went to the Fungus Face-Off last Saturday, solo. My husband was firmly rooted to the couch, like a chanterelle to the base of an oak. I'm glad I went, though, because there is surely no place like Big Sur on this earth, and for that, I am both glad and somewhat mystified. There's a vortex around the place. Venturing south of Rocky Point, there is something that sucks the very horsepower out of even the most highly tuned V-8 engine. Cars slow to a crawl. There is simply no moving faster than 40 mph. And, if the license plate says Missouri or Nevada, where they haven't seen an ocean in a few millennia, make that 30 mph, tops. The drive is so stunning there is nothing that can cap it, except, well, mushrooms. Tons of them, chanterelles, porcini, oysters and cremini, creatively cooked up into dishes that make your mouth as happy as only 'shrooms can do.

With a backdrop as stunning as Ventana Inn, awesome music by Santa Cruz musician Asher Stern (who delivers produce to Esalen weekly), fantastic cuisine by our esteemed local chefs and a cornucopia of wonderful wine from local and visiting wineries alike, the Fungus Face-Off was an out-and-out winner on every level. A benefit for the Big Sur Health Center, Executive Director Sharen Carey was clearly pleased with the event and is already planning next year's festivities - probably not on a playoff weekend, though.

Celebrity judges Jim Dodge, Michael Bauer and Wendy Brodie were tasked with presenting awards in the following categories, to which I have added the wines I thought provided the most wonderfully seductive pairings. I must say the white wine discovery of the day was the 2011 Baker & Brain gruner veltliner from Edna Valley: A sensational food wine that makes your mouth do a happy dance. The red wine discovery was the 2009 Comanche Cellars pinot noir from McIntyre, Paraiso and Zabala vineyards, a mix of clones that layer up to create the perfect panini of a pinot.

Philip Wojtowicz, Big Sur Bakery: Gougère filled with chanterelle mousse. I could have eaten a dozen of these, but instead, brought some home to the hubby, who made small sounds of delight as he tore himself away from the TV for 30 seconds. Wine Pairing: 2008 Mesa del Sol "Primo Rosso," zinfandel-sangiovese blend.

This dish was actually tough to pair - I thought pinot would work, but the flavors were so simple and intense, the firm richness of Ann Hougham's blend really proved to be the right dancing partner.

Distillates for
particularly tough games

If you're looking for something indigenous to punch up your punch, Fog's End Moonshine is pretty peppy. Want something a bit more refined and sophisticated, and you'd want to put your money on the Monterey Rye, which is made from organic rye grain and lovingly distilled with the patience not normally bestowed upon a moonshiner. You see, the original recipes for these libations came from a very old Kentucky family recipe - and that means quick, dirty and undercover. Distiller and owner Craig Pakish acknowledges the origins and the inspiration, but not necessarily the methodology: He continues to forge and flame ahead, improving his still to shorten the distillation process, and shrink the on "oak" - or oak alternative - aging time. As a one-person operation, every hour he can save is worth something, as he experiments with different staves, toasts and exposure regimens.

He sells a version of corn liquor with a wood stave that can be inserted in the bottle for your own on-oak aging experimentation, and calls it "Create Your Flavor." A fun concept. Give it a try! Although my money is still on the rye.

Carmel Happenings: More new tasting rooms

Oh, wait, is that new? Perhaps the concept has become de rigeur. But Shale Canyon and Blair are now open next to Manzoni, across from Basil. And yet more are coming into town. Silvestri is relocating from Carmel Valley Village's east end in a couple of months, just across the street from Scheid's Carmel tasting room. And then you'll have the Event Center in the old bank building, and a wonderful new foodie addition with a new Hahn Estates tasting room, giving Chef Brian O a chance to whip up Wine Country Tapas in his own hometown.

Sale on Chateau
Julien wines

The future is here at Chateau Julien: they're offering three righteous Private Reserve reds at 50 percent off by the case, including 2011 reserve syrah, 2011 reserve merlot and 2011 Black Nova IV. Wines will be released in late fall 2013. Place your order online or call the Wine Estate directly at 831-624-2600. A minimum six-bottle purchase is required for all varietals. Offer expires Jan. 31.

Laura Ness writes for many wine publications, including AppellationAmerica.com, Vine Times and Vineyard & Winery Management. A longtime resident of the Santa Cruz Mountains, she enjoys writing about wines of character and the characters who make them. Email: highperf@got.net.

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Laura Ness: Mushroom magic at Fungus Face-Off

Fungus lost out to football, so off I went to the Fungus Face-Off last Saturday, solo. My husband was firmly rooted to the couch, like a chanterelle to the base of an oak.