Hey I am new here looking to see if anyone has had a similar issue or any insight to what my car is doing.

My TL has like 170k miles so parts are starting to go out. Recently on cooler mornings like 50 degrees my car has been taking 3 or 4 tries to start. I tested the battery it seemed fine but replaced it anyways because it was 4 years old. The car will run fine and also will start on the first time after it has been ran even for a little bit. Yesterday it took like 7 tries to fire up. I went and bought injector cleaner. It didn't seem to do much. Also starter has less then 30k on it and it is functioning.

At that age and higher mileage there's quite a few things that will "get tired" and begin to pop up.

Back to your current problem... if it cranks at normal speed but still fails to catch and run, you may be suffering from a weak fuel pump or a bad check valve, which in most cases is internal to the fuel pump. You may want to try replacing the fuel filter as a cheap step in your diagnosis, especially if it hasn't been changed in the last 30k miles. After that I'd be looking to test fuel pressure both cold after sitting, and say 5 - 10 minutes after the last run. The key here is the pressure may drop off to nothing and you are cranking away while waiting for the fuel pump to prime the system. It also may be the pressure is low enough to cause a lean condition, which will lead to hard starting cold. Not sure exactly what your spec is but typically the pressure on an injected engine is around 55 - 60 PSI. If it's say 45 PSI then it will probably start when warm but it's not rich enough to kick off below 50 degrees.

You need a special gauge set up to do this test. DO NOT attempt to rig something with fuel hose, clamps, and fittings. You may be able to rent or borrow the needed kit from a parts store or possibly buy an inexpensive one on-line. They are fairly universal with only a small selection of adaptors needed to fit most passenger vehicles.

BTW, that's about the right mileage for a failing fuel pump and it's inside the fuel tank. If you feel that's your direction then post again for more info when you get that far.

I always ask if the Check Engine Light is on or if you have had a scanner on it. If the CEL is on I would definitely have it scanned. If not, a scanner can still come in handy to see if temperature sensor is reading properly or if there is a lean condition. It could save some time and money if you have access to one. If you do have it scanned and there are codes, post the NUMBERS here for review before buying parts. We may be able to save you time and money there too?