Description

The indirect sit start to Neil's Lunge.

Start on ok crimps down low and to the right of cave overhang. Make your way up and right on cool looking undercling flakes and make the difficult transition into the left facing flake of neil's lunge. Finish up on Neil's of course.

Any word on the new grade since the gaston came off for the transition into Neil's? Max Monn and Matt Giosi were pretty confident it has become an 8. Personally, I don't have enough confidence in my sense of grades to say one way or the other. Thoughts?

The problem was over graded at v7 prior to its original break. It was probably v6, no harder than the sit that moves left into the axe head. After the first break a few years ago, using the broken gaston probably made it v7, although the toe hook beta has always been there which if it works for you supposedly does not feel hard. with the most recent break, the toe hook beta now becomes the path of least resistance, so that beta should garner the grade, whatever the consensus on that beta is, but probably not harder than v7. Forcing yourself to use the now terrible broken hold is not only harder, but not any fun.