Battery issues

Comments

I think the max input voltage for your controller is 150 volts. If so, you can put the three panels in series (unless you are in a very very cold region).

Have you ordered a combiner and DC breakers? They are required for safety whenever you have 3 or more strings of panels in parallel. Midnite solar makes a very nice and affordable three position combiner (I have one).

Nice ! You did see the voltage go up to 32V and stay for an hour?Ok so now you need to concentrate on getting the average SG up to normal and the new absorb V and time should help. Check it tomorrow. next another EQ will help but let it charge normally for a few days. Make sure the voltage stays up for the EQ hour.If you get some nice sunny days early next week you should run the electric heater as a load. I would run try and run it for 1 hour to start. 1500 watts should do for now. Check the SG and see if all the cells are similar. Good Luck!

You want to start cycling the batteries but you need to get the SG up to 1.265 or so.Those 1.150 numbers are not good yet.If they do not improve then it won't hurt to start cycling them. I hope that is not the case.

i have a question..My batteries seem to be doing better, however i have those 2 that wont come up..My panels wont be here till Tuesday..I was thinking id unhook them tonight, tie them together for 12 volts and put my big charger on them at 60 apms for a few hours..Is that a waste of time?

What would be the most efficient way to string 4 265 watt Kyoceras X 24 volts. Per earlier in the thread I have 8 Trojan L16 I have a total of 6 panels but am finishing up a new addition before connecting them

Unless you have a long distance between the charge controller and the array, Run your strings so they are closest to 2x the battery bank voltage. If you are running a 48 volt battery bank, check to see if you will exceed the limits of your charge controller.

Next time please include;

Battery bank /system voltage

Distance from array to charge controller

VMP of the panels

Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Prosine 1800 and Exeltech 1100, 660 ah 24v ForkLift battery. Off grid for @16 of last 17 years. Assorted other systems, and to many panels in the closet to not do more...lol

It's an interesting question. I suspect you can put as many on as you want and the controller will handle them, reducing output to 60 amps. Most panels that could cost effectively be handled, is limited by the 60 amp maximum output, at @28 volts would be 60amps x 28volts = 1680 watts and since panels NOCT (Normal Operating Cell Temperature) value runs about 75% of the panel rating, you can add a 1/3 of that value or about 2240 watts.

Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Prosine 1800 and Exeltech 1100, 660 ah 24v ForkLift battery. Off grid for @16 of last 17 years. Assorted other systems, and to many panels in the closet to not do more...lol

off an on for the last 6 days, my bank would show 26 to 27 at sundown. However if I turn one 24 volt 60 watt bulb on it drops to 22-23 volts and dims. This isn't every night. More like every other night. Could this be an indication that my bank has issues or possible my Xantrex isn't working correctly?

If you rarely use electric power (backup power) or are seasonal (weekends/summer), then 5% rate of charge can work.

If you use the system heavily/daily (over 9 months a year), then 10% rate of charge is better... You can go upwards of 13% rate of charge on solar (10-13%+ rate of charge helpful if you have significant day time loads).

In general, it is usually easier to manage a battery bank that has significant "over paneling" (and you will probably, on average, have longer battery life too).