i have being working on this for the last 3 days and can not find the problem. i just bout a 91 corrado when i got to start it for the forst time in the day it turns on but RPM go way low almost stalls but doesent. after is watmed up idles fine at about 840 rpm but when i press on the pedal it goes up and stays at 1,000 RPM + for a long time and slowly comes down.
i have cheaked and adjusted the ISV and it sees to be working also cheaked for vaccum leacks and cant seem to find any. I did the MFA vaccum/boost test thing and i get 137 at idle not sure what this number means.
could any one give me any other ideas of what this could be.
oh i lso cheaked the idle screw behind the T-body and its good
thanks

Re: (mk4chris)

things on a G60 that effect idle...
ISV
Blue water temp sensor
O2 sensor
Vacuum line from ECU to TB
various vacuum leaks (Manifold to FPR is common)
faulty ignition switch
Dist cap and rotor being bad
thats atleast off the top of my head... i would first reach behind the intake manifold on the passenger side and locate the O2 harness bolted to the rear engine mount and disconnect it... that's an easy and free check for a faulty O2 sensor.
next i would order in a new blue water temp sensor http://www.germanautoparts.com...181/1
i'm also under the assumption you've replaced cap and rotor already. so check back with more infor on what you;ve check so far to see if i can help fix your problem... [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

isv seems to be working give a little bit of throotle and pressed the idle switch and it hunts for idle so am thinking its good. vaccum line from ecu to TB seems to be in good condition and sprayed it with some wd-40 and nothing so am pretty sure is good new vaccum line on the FPR to mani. is there any way to cheak the ignition switch. i also tryed to disconnect the blue temp sensor to see if there was any difference but it doesent even start with it disconnected witch am pretty sure thats how its suppose to be. looked at the cap and rotor dosnt look bad but i am planning on changin them. is there any way i could cheak the O2 and temp sensor. i am saving up for a bentley am a little broke right now . i need help i cant even sleep

Re: (vdubCorrado)

things on a G60 that effect idle...
ISV
Blue water temp sensor
O2 sensor
Vacuum line from ECU to TB
various vacuum leaks (Manifold to FPR is common)
faulty ignition switch
Dist cap and rotor being bad

One thing to also check is the Throttle cable, see how much adjusttment is left. Also when the idle hangs, put your foot under the gas pedal and push up on the pedal. If the RPM's drop your cable is more than likely streched and you need a new one.

We're the middle children of history, man. No purpose or place. We have no Great War. No Great Depression. Our Great War's a spiritual war... our Great Depression is our lives. We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. And we're very, very pissed off.

Re: (mk4chris)

to the sunroof Q,: if the top of the metal is scratched you have either :
a) a rock/[ebble stuck in there
b) are in need of adjustment of the 4 torx screws that hold the panel to the slides.
if the latter in the case, it is no biggie. if you put the roof in in cold weather and now it is hot, that may have effected fitment.

Re: (Noobercorn)

to the sunroof Q,: if the top of the metal is scratched you have either :
a) a rock/[ebble stuck in there
b) are in need of adjustment of the 4 torx screws that hold the panel to the slides.
if the latter in the case, it is no biggie. if you put the roof in in cold weather and now it is hot, that may have effected fitment.

my sunroof is scratched on top too... i can get it to do the "pop-up" but it wont slide back. How do you get to those torx?

Re: (jared@avenueautosport)

the 4 torx are located on the inner sides of the sunroof. you access them from inside the car. (circled in red)
if your sunroof is not going back, but IS tilting up, it is likely the slider thingy, looks like a silver metal hook, they break all the time, and won't pull the SR back (circled in blue)

Re: (jared@avenueautosport)

look closely at the pic, the blue circle on the left has a "Z" shaped metal piece, that night be broken (very common)
if the hook thingy is broken, it could just be not connected, although look OK. like, it should move. if it does so BY HAND, ****'s broke.

Re: (Noobercorn)

ill check it out a little more tonite. one other thing if you dont mind... the guy I bought it from claimed he "disconnected" the spoiler so it didnt break, which I assume is b.s. - i dont see anywhere to disconnect it anyhow, so im assuming maybe the module? the spoiler doesnt go up by itself or with the switch...

Re: (jared@avenueautosport)

first check to see if there is power to the module, check the relay, and see if the module is even plugged in.
it is under the dash, drvr side, up high by the switch. most common issue is that the white/blue wire is not connected (speed sensor wire)
and here is mikki's kick ass thread on this........ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3993253

Re: (mk4chris)

isv seems to be working give a little bit of throotle and pressed the idle switch and it hunts for idle so am thinking its good. vaccum line from ecu to TB seems to be in good condition and sprayed it with some wd-40 and nothing so am pretty sure is good new vaccum line on the FPR to mani. is there any way to cheak the ignition switch. i also tryed to disconnect the blue temp sensor to see if there was any difference but it doesent even start with it disconnected witch am pretty sure thats how its suppose to be. looked at the cap and rotor dosnt look bad but i am planning on changin them. is there any way i could cheak the O2 and temp sensor. i am saving up for a bentley am a little broke right now . i need help i cant even sleep

Modified by mk4chris at 2:17 AM 6-15-2009

if you go back and read my post you'll see the very first short paragraph agter the list is an explanation of how to disconnect the O2 sensor... by diconnecting the O2 sensor on the digifant computer system it automatically puts your ECU in "safe mode" which is a pregrogrammed air/fuel ratio with a little more fuel than "normal" to make sure your engine doesn't run lean... many times you'll find your car will idle better with the O2 disconnected than with it connected... i.e. faulty sensor...
if that is problem you can refer to this instead of paying full price for a Corrado G60 O2 sensor... which is over $200... either use a 3 wire universal O2 sensor or an 89 Mustang GT O2 sensor and cut the Ford plug off and wire it to the Corrado harness... sometimes the Ford one is cheaper than the universal thats why i mentioned it, and i have used it before with no problems...
the only way to effectively test the blue water temp sensor is to spend the $10 and replace it... your Corrado is 18 years old as it is... it won't hurt to replace it... first thing i do to every G60 i own is replace every sensor on the motor cause they probably havent been changed since it's been built... but that's me...

Re: FV-QR (prodigy_g60)

Since I knew that anwser was coming what is needed to do it? Is there a write up on ISV removal?
I just wasnt sure what the best stuff to use was WD-40 or brake cleaner?

actually to clean it use Brakleen GREEN can ONLY and spray and let it fall out till the Brakleen falling back out is clear again... spray it in from any possible angle as possible... i also use the straw provided... if you want to then follow it up with WD-40 to keep it lubed up after all the Brakleen has dried out, sure, but i never have. oil flows through the ISV so i never worried about it, but i guess it's not a bad idea...
removing it completely makes the car run alot more like a Carb'd car in the sense you have to spend alot of time setting the idle and changing it for different types of weather... i deleted one for about a month or two. drove me nuts if the weather changed too much so i had to buy a new one... just my opinon on deleting it though...
EDIT: removing the ISV on your G60 is killer easy... unscrew or obliterate your crimp clamp from your ISV at the manifold connection, then do the same to the other hose exiting from the driver side of the ISV. unplug the harness from the passenger side. then slide the ISV w/ the rubber grommet attached off of the hook... just comes straight up and then your ISV is out...

Re: FV-QR (vdubCorrado)

i know the site is killer out dated but alot of info is always relevant there to many common problems...http://www.corrado-club.com
then Corrado Information tab on the left
then FAQ's & Tech Tips
that would probably still help out alot of people [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

Re: (Noobercorn)

look closely at the pic, the blue circle on the left has a "Z" shaped metal piece, that night be broken (very common)
if the hook thingy is broken, it could just be not connected, although look OK. like, it should move. if it does so BY HAND, ****'s broke.

here's what the "hooks" in mine look like... can you tell anything from these?

Re: (jared@avenueautosport)

CAN YOU MOVE THIS FORWARD AND AFT ON THE SLIDE? BY HAND? OR DOES IT JUST PIVOT LIKE A SEE-SAW?GREY/BLACK RECTANGULAR BAR DIAGONALLY CROSSING THIS PIC, CAN YOU SLIDE THIS FORWARD AND AFT BY HAND? IF SO, DOES IT B4RING THE INNER PANEL OF THE SUNROOF WITH IT OR NO?

Re: (vdubCorrado)

ok so i disconnected the o2 harness and turned it on seems to run worst with it off it stumbles and hesetates when i step on the pedal. seems to be gotten better after i adjusted the isv and cleaned it but stil when i start it for the first time in the day it runs like poop i cant even step on the trottle with out it boggin down and then when warm it has the rpm in the right spot but then if i step on it just a bit it stays at 1k rpm now and wont go down. also did the vaccum/boost test thing on the MFA and got 137 againg during idle not sure what this means but according to my undertsnding maybe a vaccum leak but i cant find one no were

wait so is 137 good or bad i did a 3rd gear pull and it only hit 194 but it seems to pull strong. i also tryed adjusting the idle screw in the back of the T-body but doesnt do much change to the idle and when unplugin the blue coolant temp sensor it runs like crap am thinking super rich because when i step on the throttle it starts to back fire and bogs down then very sowly starts to go up in rpm very confused right now.

i have being reading around and found 2 different sets of numbers to compare it to am not sure witch is coreect one vertion says at idle i should be between 550-750 and the other 84-104 reading not sure witch one am suppose to be looking for. am really not sure whats going on here i would think the idle screw would show a significant amount of change to the rpm but when i unscrew it if am siting at around 840 RPM it maybe only increases it to 1k rpm not sure if this is right.