Hanauma Bay, formed by two craters near Koko Head on Oahu's sunny south shore, is one of the world's most popular snorkeling spots. Approximately 3,000 people per day, mostly tourists eager to don masks and view colorful fish in the turquoise water, descend on the narrow, 2,000-foot long sandy beach. Unlike other Hawaiian beaches, there's an entrance fee, albeit a small one. But if you think this bay is a tourist trap, reconsider. Since the marine life conservation district implemented plans to protect the bay, such as regulating commercial tours, closing on Tuesdays and charging non-residents of Hawaii an entrance fee, the number of daily visitors dropped from 10,000 to 3,000. When it comes to seeing lots of fish and in a wide variety near any of Oahu's shores, Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve delivers.

Snorkeling

Once a favorite fishing ground of King Kamehameha V, among other Hawaii royalty, Hanauma Bay has always been teeming with tropical fish. Look for fish among the reef's edges as you glide over the fingers of sand. The fish are accustomed to snorkelers, and people are not allowed to collect, hunt or harm fish here, making the fish less afraid. Rent snorkel gear from the concession at the bay, or save by renting it before you get to the bay, such as from a Honolulu venue like Snorkel Bob's (snorkelbob.com). If you plan to do a lot of snorkeling in Hawaii, consider purchasing your own gear. Many Oahu stores sell masks, snorkels and fins. Be sure the mask fits properly; if it doesn't, it will leak. Before snorkeling, you can secure your personal belongings in a locker, and after snorkeling you can enjoy a shower here. The bay also has a snack-stand and a shaded, grassy, picnic area.

Under the Water

Some of the creatures you may see include the blue-green parrotfish with its fused teeth that create a beak-like appearance. The parrotfish grows to about 10 inches, and is a loner, but many of the fish in the bay, including bright yellow tang, swim in schools. Also look for the Moorish idol, a graceful yellow and black fish resembling a large version of a fish tank's angel fish; butterfly fish with a black spot on the tail resembling an eye and meant to fool bigger fish; Humuhumunukunukuapuaa, the Hawaiian reef trigger fish; sea urchin, tube-shaped trumpet fish that vacuums up smaller fish with its mouth, the brown sea cucumber that grows to about 12 inches and 2 to 3-foot moray eels.

The moray eel has sharp, concave teeth, but it rarely attacks a person, unless a foot or hand comes too close. The eels mainly hunt at dusk and after dark, but you may see the head of one peeking out of a hole in the reef or rocks, its jaws opening and shutting, which looks scary but is just its way of breathing.

Getting There

Unless you've booked a tour through your hotel or cruise, you may want to consider saving the money by visiting independently. Hanauma's education center provides an abundance of information, including laminated fish identification cards. First-time visitors are required to watch their movie about conservation, preservation and safety. It's about a 10-mile, 20-minute drive from Waikiki to Hanauma. Oahu's mass transit system, The Bus (thebus.org) stops here too. Take the ramp or a trolley down the hill, but first enjoy the view of the bay from above.

Best Time to Go

The parking lot fills quickly, so if you're driving, plan to arrive early in the morning. Check Hanauma's website for current hours of operation. Early morning is also the best time snorkel because the ocean is usually at its calmest, meaning the water is clearer. When the tradewinds start blowing in the afternoon, the disturbance created in the water swishes the sand up, adding murkiness. People moving about in the water also kick up sand. Another advantage to going in the early morning -- the lines will be shorter and you'll have more elbow room on the beach and in that lusciously cool but never cold water.

Safety

If you're new to snorkeling or to Hawaii's ocean currents, stay close to shore. Most people snorkel in the channel named Keyhole, a swath of sand with nooks and crannies of coral reef to explore. In spite of the abundance of fish you can see near the beach, Hanauma Bay is dangerous. Lifeguards have rescued hundreds here, especially in the channels on east and west ends, where rip currents move to the outer bay, beyond the protective fringe reef. The outer bay has very strong currents, sometimes high surf and depths up to 70 feet. No one but experienced divers should consider venturing out there. While snorkeling is about as safe as it gets near the beach, children should be watched carefully.

References

Exploring Hanauma Bay by Susan Scott, Published by University of Hawaii Press, 1993

Resources

About the Author

Cindy Blankenship, a California native, began reporting in 1996 for the Grants Pass Daily Courier after teaching in Hawaii where she lived 14 years. As assistant editor at the Rogue River Press, she wrote and edited several stories that earned awards from the Oregon Newspaper Publishers Association. Her writing appears in numerous publications.