Australia

Australia has come to represent the most 'successful' New World producer to date, the benchmark by which competitor winemaking nations have come to judge themselves. However it’s been achieved not without significant cost to an industry that has been forced to consolidate in ever-decreasing circles to keep the wheels from falling off the Brand Australia juggernaut: in 2003-2004, 20 businesses accounted for 86 percent of all production.

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Australia has come to represent the most 'successful' New World producer to date, the benchmark by which competitor winemaking nations have come to judge themselves. However it’s been achieved not without significant cost to an industry that has been forced to consolidate in ever-decreasing circles, in order to keep the wheels from falling off the Brand Australia juggernaut. In 2003-2004, 20 businesses accounted for 86 percent of all production. The prize has been a 24 percent share of the UK market (as well as a rapidly-improving one in the USA), ironically a position it held 'before the Wars' as a supplier of fortified 'Empire wine'.

Commercial viticulture was established during the early part of the 19th century, with South Australia the last to plant in the 1840s before quickly establishing itself as the major source of fortified wine. A post-WWII move towards consumption of still dry table wine, encouraged by the steady stream of immigrants, was accelerated by the introduction of German pressured fermentation vats, stainless-steel and refrigeration units during the 1970s, enabling winemakers to ferment to dryness. At the same time, French barrels made their debut, adding complexity and a premium allure, while fruit from new, cooler areas such as Coonawarra and Padthaway permitted lighter styles to be made.

These seismic improvements were not lost on the UK market, itself in near revolution during the early 1980s as Thatcher's government bounced the economy back to life. With Neighbours dominating the airwaves, supermarkets were given carte blanche to spread far and wide, immediately creating a demand for a new style of wine, namely a ‘brand’, with consumers only too willing to move from Bulgarian table wine to an Aussie fruit bomb – especially one with an Emu on the label.

The Australians grasped the opportunity, only too willing to supply the right product at the right price, supported by aggressive pricing and discounts. On the supply side, the structure of their industry allowed them to cross-border blend and so maximise production. Corporate consolidation further improved their effectiveness to compete on volume yet has not hitherto allowed them to grow sales value.

Only the ramifications of a current chronic seven-year drought, with saline levels at unprecedentedly high levels and the evaporation of the Murray Darling River (South Australia's only real source of irrigation since viticulture began) to a virtual trickle has prompted the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation (AWBC) to finally enforce water quotas. Yet even when an oversupply still exists, key Australian brands are now being obliged to import wine from the likes of Chile to meet demand; 40 percent of wineries are running at a loss, largely as a result of over-capitalisation.

Climatically the continent could be divided into two: a tropical weather pattern affecting New South Wales and the north, while the southern half of the country – covering the key viticultural states of Western and Southern Australia, Victoria and Tasmania – enjoys a less extreme band of warm to hot weather oscillating between 25 and 35 Celsius. Yet without the cool oceans enjoyed by California or the mountain ranges of Italy, the climate does not benefit from significant diurnal shifts in temperature, between day and night. There are, however, notable cooler spots such as Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Eden Valley, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully, Adelaide Hills, Macedon Ranges, Yarra Valley and Tasmania. Relatively high humidity (around 55 percent) seems to be a prerequisite for successful photosynthesis in these climes.

Of the 167,000 ha producing 14.3hl of wine in 2005, the state of South Australia accounts for 43 percent of the vineyard area (ie Riverland, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale); New South Wales, 24 percent (Riverina, Murray Darling, Hunter Valley); Victoria, 23 percent (Heathcote, Swan Hill, Yarra Valley); and Western Australia just 8 percent (Margaret River, Great Southern).

Sourced from the Frankland River, this wine possesses a clarity and freshness, reflecting the region's cooler climate. The nose exudes white peach and citrus fruit, with a vibrant salinity. There is a nervosity and linear quality to the wine, which layers with subtle toast, lemon zest and peach stone on the long finish. This would be a delicious accompaniment to seafood linguine and creamy chicken dishes alike.Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer

The 2016 vintage was superb in the Barossa Valley, enabling Elderton to include 30 percent fruit from the family's prized Greenock vineyard in this special blend. The wine has an enticing nose of blackberries and warm plummy fruit, lifted by an appealing freshness. Soft, supple red and black fruit envelops the palate, while the tannins are smooth and fine. Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer

This is the second vintage of our increasingly popular Eden Valley Riesling. The 2016 demonstrates the same crisp, mouth-watering lime character of the previous vintage but with a touch more generosity and roundness. White flowers mingle with yellow peach notes which broaden out on the palate and the finish is long and refreshing. Drink now and enjoy its glorious freshness or keep for two to five years to delight in the complex, toasty character that will undoubtedly shine through.Catriona Felstead MW - Wine Buyer

Eden Valley is recognised as one of the world’s great Riesling regions. The wine comes from a single vineyard whose specific topography and mineral profile provide ideal conditions for Riesling. Gun Metal describes the grey-coloured stone amongst the vineyard while symbolizing the steely minerality of the wine. The nose is evocative of honey and jasmine aromas, with nuances of fresh pears and allspice. Light and refreshing on the palate, wit honeyed fruit and baked apple flavors.

Rich, blackcurranty aromas are lifted from the glass by an almost zesty vibrance, this is quite primary in its nature and full of juicy promise. Thick, generous and powerful on the attack it really coats the mouth with a ball of spicy dark fruits. Whilst not shying away from upfront pleasure there is also some savoury meaty notes to hold the interest in the length and the palate is left tingling with well-judged dark berry fruits. Ripe, but not overtly so – a good wine to match with some big chunks of steak from the barbeque.Peter Newton, Private Account Manager

An abundance of ripe blackberry and wild raspberry aromas are expressed alongside delicate hints of sweet spice. The palate has plenty to offer, exuding glossy fruit, velvety tannins, and a lovely freshness from a complementing acidity. Soft red and black fruits are vying for attention, a little complexity here with savoury characteristics of mushroom and dark chocolate notes rising from underneath. Very well made, and a cracking quaffer that delivers for the price.Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager

Mt Hilary is collaboration between Gemtree Winery and Teresa Nobilo-Healy, granddaughter of pioneering winemaker Nikola Nobilo OBE. A distinguished and quality – focussed estate, Gemtree was established in 1998 in the South Australian region of McLaren Vale but the fruit for Mt Hillary is sourced from the cooler climate Clare Valley. The expert team of Mike Brown, head winemaker, and wife Melissa, the estate’s viticulturist, have been producing biodynamically farmed premium Shiraz since 2008, with minimal intervention and allowing the wines to express their natural origins.

The vision of Mt Hilary is for the production of hand crafted wines from premium parcels that are a true and honest reflection of pure regional, varietal and winemaker expression. Their reputation is steadily growing, with recognition from James Haliday

Old Plains Longhop is the joint venture of two school friends based in the Adelaide Plains. Their aim is to preserve the heritage, character and quality of the few remaining parcels of old vines planted here by Italian immigrants following the Second World War.

With many of the vines over 50 years old, this wine expresses fine concentration and balance. It has a wonderfully open nose of mulberry, blackcurrant and violet. Its berry-fruit profile melts into subtle notes of allspice and chocolate. The tannins are fine and well managed, and the acidity remains fresh. Drink now to 2022

Crittenden's “homage” to the classic Catalonian blend of Tempranillo (50 percent), Mataro (Mourvèdre, 30 percent) and Grenache (20 percent) was inspired by winemaker Rollo Crittenden's love of this part of Spain. The grapes come from a vineyard just outside the Mornington Peninsula region and Rollo uses old oak and wild fermentation to retain freshness in the style.

The wine is indeed fresh, lean and pure. Bright, juicy red and black fruit comes through from the Tempranillo whilst the Mataro adds a dense feel to the wine with a meaty element; and the Grenache brings elegant spice and white pepper to the long finish. This is a really impressive wine with a clear Catalonian feel to it, ¡salut!Catriona Felstead - Australia Buyer, January 2017

A blend of 97 percent Shiraz and three percent Viognier from the Frankland River region of Western Australia, a note of black pepper marks this out as a cool-climate Shiraz, but alongside the spice there’s also rich, ripe fruit. Red plum, black cherry and brambles combine with dried herbs and a hint of toastiness, all supported by ripe tannins and energetic acidity.

Classically Australian Semillon straight off the bat – lime zest, beeswax and even a touch of hay. Very taut on the palate with the citric element continuing to dominate at this stage but I expect the lanolin note and density will come through with some additional age. Very zippy at the moment, but this will mellow and flesh out over time. Another fine example from Moss Wood and further proof you can look beyond the Hunter Valley for Semillon. Drink 2018 to 2022+.Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager

Pale gold and bright in colour, this has a restrained fragrance of fresh figs with citrus fruit. The palate combines tangy, fresh acidity that is indicative of cool-climate grapes, with a hint of savoury spice. Drink now to 2019.

A combination of low yields and ideal ripening conditions have produced a bright, ruby Pinot Noir. This has aromas of red cherry and juicy plum on the nose, while the delicate soft tannins and spiced berries develop into a savoury twist on the finish.Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer

Domenic Torzi is of South-Central Italian origin, a heritage reflected in some of the grape varieties he grows and the “Amarone” treatment he gives to his Frost Dodger Shiraz. With his partner Tracy Matthews he has set up home since 1996 on 10 hectares of land in the high Eden Valley, a cool region in South Australia more famous for Riesling than Negroamaro or Shiraz. Not only do they make great, characterful wines, but they also make fabulous olive oil from some of the ancient wild olive trees in the Barossa Valley.

Oggi, which means “today” in Italian, is something of an annual experiment. As chief winemaker Rollo puts it, “Oggi is our opportunity to show people what we are trialling in the winery from day-to-day and year-to-year.” The 2015 Oggi is a blend of three traditional Italian varietals: Fiano, Arneis and Vermentino. Made very similarly to a red wine, with extended gross lees maturation, the wine has textural complexity and generous body. The nose, palate and finish are bursting with crisp orchard fruit, honeysuckle and beeswax. Each bottle bares a unique label, reflecting the individuality of its contents. Drink now to 2020.

Not the Pythonesque antithesis of Kangeright, Kangerong is actually a zone of Mornington Peninsula. This is a fruity, understated Chardonnay, with its character from extended lees’ contact rather than oak. The fruit comes from two selected Chardonnay blocks, a stone’s throw apart. 100% chardonnay. Cool & discreet.

Some tempered classic Semillon notes of fleshy white fruit, coupled with floral hints on the nose. That lovely white fruit again on the palate, crisp acidity from the 14% Sauvignon Blanc content, keeps everything in check, taut and mineral. A bit more richness then comes through on the finish, ripe yellow plums and the tell-tale Semillon hint of boiled sweets. Good depth and breadth and nice length.Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager