1972 was the year Californian winemaking began in earnest. Thirty
years on, PAUL FRANSON finds out why.

This year is the 30th anniversary of a remarkable year in California,
the year when more important wineries were formed than during any
other year in 300 years of winemaking. And though 30 years may seem
trivial against Europe's history, 1972 had a profound impact on
California wine.

1972 was the year that oilman Tom Jordan started Jordan winery,
which would become a favorite of President Ronald Reagan. It also
saw the birth of cult favorites Burgess Cellars Diamond Creek and
Silver Oak. All still owned by their founders.

THE ONGOING CULT

Most well known wineries founded in 1972 have grown to at least
moderate size - 25,000 to 150,000 cases per year. At one extreme,
Franciscan Vineyards produces 1.2 million cases. At the other, Diamond
Creek Vineyards still makes only about 2,000 cases per year
Diamond Creek's owner and marketing wizard Al Brounstein has invested
in his unique site, which has tiny production and intense wines,
to sustain cult status while newcomers rocket to the skies and fall
to earth. Cheekily setting the highest prices in the industry, he
charged $350 (£245) for his 1999 Lake Vineyard Cabernet and
sold out in days.

Former pharmaceutical entrepreneur Brounstein got into the wine
business selling wine for Weibel and Sebastiani, and admits that
he smuggled in budwood from two first growth estates in Bordeaux
to plant vines on the property.

Probably a pioneer in marketing terrior at a California vineyard,
Brounstein insists on tiny yields and premier quality. "I'm
asking the most money; I want the best wine," he proclaims.
Decanter January 2002