Chinese Vegetarian `Duck' Takes Wing

If you would like to re-create the flavors of Chinese vegetarian cuisine at home, here are two recipes.

The first is a basic recipe for vegetarian "duck" from Dapeng Ren, a cooking instructor in Hinsdale, and the second is a typical vegetable dish to serve with it.

Ren suggests using fresh soybean curd skin from Asian markets for the "duck" recipe. The skin is made by skimming the surface layer off soybean milk. It can sometimes be found fresh or frozen; dried is more readily available at Asian markets.

(For information on Ren's classes on how to prepare a Chinese dinner party, call 708-850-9644.)

VEGETARIAN DUCK

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Cooling time: 1 hour

Yield: 4 servings

1 package (8 ounces) dried bean curd sheets, see note

Vegetable oil for frying

1 2/3 cups vegetable or unsalted chicken broth

1/2 cup light soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

4 green onions, chopped

1 piece ( 1/2-inch) fresh ginger, peeled, sliced

Parsley sprigs or cilantro for garnish

1. Soak bean curds sheets in a large baking or a roasting pan filled with very hot water until pliable, about 5 minutes. Carefully drain off water and then pat each sheet dry. Fold each sheet until you have a rectangle that measures about 5- by 3-inches. (Don't worry if sheets tear while folding them.)

2. Heat 1/4-inch of oil in a large skillet over medium heat; fry rectangles, two or three at a time, turning carefully with a metal spatula, until brown on both sides; set aside on paper towel to drain. Recipe can be made several hours ahead to this point.

3. Mix remaining ingredients, except garnish, in a large skillet. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer and cook 5 minutes. Put fried rectangles into skillet, turn to coat with sauce. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Let cool in the pan about 1 hour.

4. To serve, remove rectangles with a wide spatula to a cutting board. Cut each piece into 1/2-inch slices; arrange slices on a platter. Pour any pan juices into a small bowl to use for dipping sauce. Garnish with parsley or cilantro.

Variation: For a vegetarian roast Peking "duck," follow above recipe through step 3. Remove rectangles from sauce to paper towels; pat dry. Coat each piece completely with cornstarch; deep-fry in vegetable oil in large skillet until brown and crispy. Cut into 1-inch wide slices; arrange on platter. Serve with hoisin sauce. Or, if desired, put one slice in a warm Chinese pancake or soft flour tortilla; spread with hoisin sauce and top with one green onion and roll up to eat.

Adapted from a recipe in "The Best of China: A Cookbook" by Evie Righter.

16 dried Chinese mushrooms

1 1/2 cups hot water

2 pounds bok choy hearts or baby bok choy

1 can (8 ounces) bamboo shoots, rinsed, drained

1/4 cup vegetable stock or chicken broth

1 tablespoon each: soy sauce, cornstarch

1 teaspoon each: sugar, Oriental sesame oil

2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 slices fresh ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1. Soak the mushrooms in 1 1/2 cups hot water in a bowl, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 15 minutes. Strain mushrooms, reserving the liquid, and squeeze mushrooms dry. Cut off and discard mushroom stems. Set caps aside. Strain the liquid and reserve 1/4 cup for this recipe.

2. Trim bok choy stalks; peel off any tough skin. Halve or quarter each stalk and cut into 2-inch pieces. Halve and cut the bamboo shoots into 1/4-inch slices.

4. Heat a wok over high heat until it just begins to smoke. Add 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil and the ginger. Stir-fry rapidly until ginger is fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add 1 more tablespoon vegetable oil, bok choy and garlic; stir-fry until leaves are just limp, 1 to 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and bamboo shoots; stir-fry rapidly until bok choy is bright green and crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. (Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil if needed.) Stir the stock mixture and swirl into wok. Stir-fry rapidly until vegetables are lightly coated with the sauce and sauce has thickened slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.