First, a little background is probably necessary for this wonderful grape. It must be said however that like many of the obscure wines that grace our dinner tables, Sankt Laurent has a background that is more than a little cloudy. It is thought to be related to and sired by Pinot Noir and an unknown second. It is also originally thought to come from the then ‘German’ region of Alsace, but just when that then was is difficult to say. Some think it was first brought to Austria around the 1870’s, while others contend it was much earlier in the 1200’s. Unlike Pinot Noir it buds rather early (risky business in Austria) and ripens around August 10th –Saint Laurentius day for which it is named. How does it taste? The ‘correct’ style in which to do up Sankt Laurent is a hot topic (for those who are hot about Sankt Laurent anyway.) Done with a light hand, it can indeed resemble Pinot Noir (still beautiful, though a little more sinister and sensitive –More ‘Goth-chick’!) Some folks would rather go for guts in which case it looks more like Northern Rhone Syrah. It can get a little gamey too, even foxy depending on the producer. I don’t ever expect this to ever be THE bottle on everyones table, but it is such a beautiful and seductive wine that I can’t help waving the flag a bit on its behalf.

So! Who wants to play? Go find a bottle at your better retail shop or local Austrian-themed fine dining establishment and get to work. Both Vin Divino and Terry Theise bring in many to choose from (and Austria certainly grows the lions share), but try to find the excellent German examples and even Canadian too.

As Achs is turning out to be quite the Pinot Noir guru in Burgenland, it is no surprise that his Sankt Laurent shows the prettier side of the grape. Kind of strawberry meets red currant fruit, a little savory raw-beef meatiness, dried roses and violet perfume and a soft, supple texture (reminiscent of Beaune rouge maybe in an average year without chaptalization.), smoke (40% new oak) and fresh, zippy acidity. This is a delightfully superb wine! 12,5% alc. $26

We had brought this to a tasting of Austrian wines at our local AWS a few months ago. Some in an opened bottle was left over, so I put it in a 1/10 bottle, brought it home and forgot about it. Bill's message prompted me to remember it and we tried it the other night.

Cherries, chocolate and a hint of figs on the nose. The taste was very much like an earthy and nutty Pinot Noir; very nice overall and much improved since the AWS session.

This is the first bottle of red that I’ve tasted from Fred Loimers ‘project rescue’ of the Schellmann estate. It took a few minutes for the reductive note to blow off (screw-capped), but what you’re left with is a surprisingly springy and snappy wine. It is as fresh as if it were bottled yesterday. I would throw this in the syrah camp (maybe syrah meets gamay); it’s more purple and grapey with bright and tangy blackberry and raspberry fruit, kind of salty, white-pepper spice and slap-happy acidity. A good SL in a modern hat. 13% alc. $23

Dan Smothergill wrote:We had brought this to a tasting of Austrian wines at our local AWS a few months ago. Some in an opened bottle was left over, so I put it in a 1/10 bottle, brought it home and forgot about it. Bill's message prompted me to remember it and we tried it the other night.

Cherries, chocolate and a hint of figs on the nose. The taste was very much like an earthy and nutty Pinot Noir; very nice overall and much improved since the AWS session.

Thanks Dan, I've never tasted anything from Forstreiter, but they seem to get a lot of respect in Krems.

I just spent time trying to find some St. Laurents over here, but the only I found was the spoofy Gobelsburg (note here) that I don't want to try again. I'm sorry, but it seems I have to drop out. Which is a real shame as I am very interested in the well made Austrian reds.

-O

I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.

Otto Nieminen wrote:I just spent time trying to find some St. Laurents over here, but the only I found was the spoofy Gobelsburg (note here) that I don't want to try again. I'm sorry, but it seems I have to drop out. Which is a real shame as I am very interested in the well made Austrian reds.

-O

Otto,

Who can I call to set up an Air Drop? No country in this modern age should be without its St. Laurent!

A darker, deeper, more full-bodied version of our hero St. Laurent. This ‘fullness’ of course is relative, and I won’t call it spoofy or slutty, just stuffed with more of what this beautiful grape can give. Cherries, (more) cherries, telliCHERRY pepper, bacon, rubarb pie. Beware! There is sharp, pointed acidty in hiding under the silky finish. It is good and delicious and a hell of a bargain–one of those wines for which taking time to write a tasting note (instead of just sitting back and enjoying the f’n wine) feels a little wrong and laborious. I’m gonna get back to that glass now! 13% alc. $18

First, the origin of the grape has been pinpointed by genetic fingerprint method over here in Klosterneuburg Viticultural School: It is a offspring of pinot noir, a so-called "seedling" (Sämling in German): a vine originally grown from the pip of a pinot noir grape.

Second, the multitude of styles — from very elegant and close to pinot noir right through the spectrum to dark, full-bodied blockbusters (I like the syrah analogy, btw) — is not so much a question of cellar work, but of the type of St. Laurent planted. It has never been worked much by nurseries, so you can have just about every imaginable result from what you have planted.

So, third, it's practically impossible to tell in advance what you will have in the glass — unless you know the wine, of course ...

By chance, there was a bottle of St. Laurent around. Nothing I drink regularely. Maybe I have to change this.

2006 Umathum St. Laurent - Austria, Burgenland (6/2/2008) ca. 10€Quite dark, almost black with violet hues. Nose of very dark fruits, blueberry and a bit of plum. Very interesting and quite unusual on the palate, similar dark fruits, medium body, quite mellow with no tannins to speak of, fine acidity. This doesn't remind me of Pinot at all, if it has to be compared to another grape this is more Syrah-like. Very good. I don't see this improving so drink now (glass stopper).

As Michael Pronay wrote and others wrote, the Syrah analogy is quite appealing.

Chalk one up for the Pinot Noir side of SL. 12.5% abv. Opened with quite a bit of funk, which very quickly blew off. Very soft, fruit-forward, black cherry. Not a lot of acid, reflecting the hot year??? In a blind tasting, I could swear this was a restrained california Pinot Noir.

I prefer the much spicier, more acidic 2004 Glaetzer tried last year, but still a very enjoyable fruity and soft wine that everyone tonight enjoyed.

...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach

I think this is the spiciest Sankt Laurent I’ve ever tasted. Judith Beck is one of the shimmering stars of die neue Burgenland Weinszene and this is shows as much talent and good judgment in winemaking as any red I’ve tasted recently outside of Burgundy. I made a huge mistake in opening this bottle so soon, but the pleasure it gives reconciles my impatience tenfold. The fruit is rather like bing cherry, cranberry, and red currant. There is also a deliciously savory meatiness somewhere between rib-eye steak and venison tenderloin (I’d say GOODISH Kangaroo, but only because I’ve recently eaten it.) The spice is black pepper and dry, dry cinnamon (those of you who have worked in a restaurants know what I mean –like the day after the ‘I bet you can’t swallow a spoonful of cinnamon’ hazing.) The tannin is commanding (but not roundhouse), the acidity forceful and this wine begs for a few years in bottle (and a cool water bath now.) Wonderful! 12,5% alc. $40

Bill Hooper wrote:First, a little background is probably necessary for this wonderful grape. It must be said however that like many of the obscure wines that grace our dinner tables, Sankt Laurent has a background that is more than a little cloudy.

Hi Bill, There is a St Laurent project in Central Otago. No sure if they have produced any yet,Here's the link: http://www.judgerock.co.nz/pages/stlaurent.shtmlThe guy behind it the project wanted an alternative to Pinot Noir and picked his first fruit from the 2007 vintage, which is evidently still in barrel. I hope I get to try it.

I have tried a couple of St Laurents - if old notes are OK.

Stift Klosterneuberg St Laurent 2002 from Austria was tasted December in 2004. I wrote "While this particular wine had aromas and flavours slightly reminiscent of Pinot Noir with a good definition of plummy fruit, I thought it more like a Pinotage with its rustic earthy depth."

In April 2002 I tasted Collegium Vinitorum Svatovavrinecke 1999 from Moravia. Svatovavrinecke is their name for St Laurent. I loved this wine,which was carried to New Zealand in Martin Kristek's luggage. I wrote, "The dense red / blue wine of excellent colour had a rich, jammy nose of 'jam as it cooks'. In the mouth it was fruity and savoury with a little spice but meaty too. I couldn't detect any oak. It was a seemingly simple style at first but became quite rich and intriguing in its complexity with its lovely, rich, ripe, concentrated, sweet fruit that was full of berries and plums. Wonderful mouthfeel too with its soft velvety fruit tannins. "

Bill Hooper wrote:I think this is the spiciest Sankt Laurent I’ve ever tasted. Judith Beck is one of the shimmering stars of die neue Burgenland Weinszene and this is shows as much talent and good judgment in winemaking as any red I’ve tasted recently outside of Burgundy. I made a huge mistake in opening this bottle so soon, but the pleasure it gives reconciles my impatience tenfold. The fruit is rather like bing cherry, cranberry, and red currant. There is also a deliciously savory meatiness somewhere between rib-eye steak and venison tenderloin (I’d say GOODISH Kangaroo, but only because I’ve recently eaten it.) The spice is black pepper and dry, dry cinnamon (those of you who have worked in a restaurants know what I mean –like the day after the ‘I bet you can’t swallow a spoonful of cinnamon’ hazing.) The tannin is commanding (but not roundhouse), the acidity forceful and this wine begs for a few years in bottle (and a cool water bath now.) Wonderful! 12,5% alc. $40

This sounds more like what I like in Sankt Laurent (given my very limited experience-a whopping TWO wines)

...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach