If you’ve never experienced the volume levels that would exist at a Taylor Swift concert if One Direction arrived as surprise guests and immediately ripped their shirts off, now you can. Just go to dinner at Beretta.

But despite the noise levels and constant scene, it’s still one of the spots we end up at over and over again when in the Mission. If you do it right -share a bunch of the very good Italian small plates, down probably four cocktails, skip the pizza, and try to get one of the outdoor tables on a nice night - you’re in for a good time. It’s also the rare, really solid SF restaurant that’s open until 1am, which makes it a key player in the Late Night Eats game. It’s also at its best for brunch, especially the boozy kind.

The kitchen turns out really good pastas and small plates, often with an interesting spin - the burrata comes on walnut bread, the arancini has dungeness crab, and the requisite little gem salad is charred. Get a bunch of these to share.

Just don’t get tempted by the pizzas - they’re a disappointment. The toppings? All good. Sauce? Solid. Crust? On par with a semi-defrosted Kirkland frozen pizza prepared by an eight year old. You can get enough other things to have an excellent meal without succumbing to this weak crust.

But we forgive Beretta for this Italian sin, because the loud, dark space, strong cocktails, and (with a few exceptions) enjoyable food make for a good time. Definitely better than a hot dog and a side of earplugs at a concert full of screaming One Direction fans.

Food Rundown

Walnut Bread, Burrata, Mushroom-Truffle Honey

Yup, they Inceptioned into your food dream and created it on a plate. This combo is insanely good and you should order at least two for the table.

Dungeness Crab Arancini

Bold statement: These might be the best arancini we’ve ever consumed. Usually arancini taste like rice and cheese, regardless of the filling. Not these puppies, which are full of meaty crab and are incredible.

Eggplant Caponatina

Eggplant roasted with tomatoes, basil, and pine nuts. Take advantage of the opportunity to consume more cheese and add the burrata, because it makes everything better.

Bruschetta

The tomatoes are fresh and it’s well seasoned, but someone needs to give Beretta some bread tips. It’s just not that great and could come from a grocery store.

Gnocchi With Porcini & Smoked Pancetta

A bigger portion than you expect with a lightness that make it very easy to consume tons of these slightly charred tasting dumpling nuggets. Get some to start.

Cauliflower With Pangratatto, Capers & Sage

Cauliflower is a bland-ass vegetable. We don’t deny it. Roast it, toss it with capers and breadcrumbs and sage though, and it tastes pretty damn good. You need some vegetables, anyways.

Meatballs

Just OK meatballs. Not bad, but a little boring. We’d say pass on this dish.

Squid Ink with Calamari Risotto

Usually on our order list - not too squidy with a healthy helping of calamari. Very good.

Prosciutto & Arugula Pizza

Top notch prosciutto that the crust can’t make up for. Why do we keep doing this to ourselves?

Margherita Pizza with Burrata

The best of the bunch, since fewer toppings means the crust doesn’t melt into damp sadness. Again, the buratta is the way to our hearts.