Here's an update so that everyone knows the status. To be clear, I'll just list the important points:
- If you have a Wilwood Pedal Box with the one-piece, cast pedals (as in CBergquist's photo above), you can expect to receive the parts and the tech bulletin. These pedal boxes were shipped with Complete Roadsters, Complete Coupes, '33 Hot Rods, and sometimes as individual assemblies added to base kits.
- If you have a Wilwood Pedal Box with the bolt-on pedal surfaces, you're unaffected and won't need to do anything.
- Tony Zullo's post from the 14th was correct at the time, but we ended up going back to make a few more changes to ensure all affected pedalboxes were covered and that quantity of parts we had in house was sufficient, so the shipment was held here.
- About half of the parts went out yesterday, 12/4/12, and I expect the rest to be sent between today and Thursday, 12/5 and 12/6.

received my parts today but had already converted to a hydraulic unit with the forged pedals. The fix they propose does not address the issue of the pedal pin side loading the pedal box. This occurs where the pin holding the pedal in goes through the pedal box and on my car the wear was most pronounced on the hole closest the drivers side of the car.

received my parts today but had already converted to a hydraulic unit with the forged pedals. The fix they propose does not address the issue of the pedal pin side loading the pedal box. This occurs where the pin holding the pedal in goes through the pedal box and on my car the wear was most pronounced on the hole closest the drivers side of the car.

I recieved the "kit" today. It made me laugh. Not that the "fix" isn't good, I'll reserve comment on that, but I laughed at one of the included parts. That part is a top foot box access hole cover. Why did I laugh? Guess what I was working on this afternoon? Yup, I was marking the top foot box cover for an access hole. Thank you FFR for sending me a nicely bent cover with a template. I sure am glad that I only marked it out with tape....

The "fix" doesn't pertain to me as I decided NOT to use the Wilwood pedals. Instead, I am using a Fox pedal box and will be using the Whitby power brake kit.

My kit arrived today and I read the instructions. It is pretty clear and seems to make sense. I can see how it will stiffen up the action. It appears to transfer some of the side loading on the shaft to the top Of the pedal. I'll find out this weekend.

I received mine today too. It looks like a B_____ to put in after the car is completed... I already cut a access hole but like this one better. Too bad my panels are powder coated or I would use the new one.

They are also offering the forges pedal upgrade for cost, what do U guys think is better and how hard to do this, I got the kit but haven't decided which way to go, have complete kit with cable king cobra clutch which has worked great for me for 7000 miles

Tell me more about install forge pedals, where have to knotch frame tube??? where is install info, if it a reall PIA then I will just do mod, if easy i would do forged for $70

Larry,

If using the cable clutch system as supplied from FFR you probably don't have to do the frame notch. I have a local friend who has a Mk3 and he replaced his clutch pedal from underneath just over a year ago. He was one of those who had a broken clutch pedal. He did not have to notch his frame. I would put the set up together with the newer clutch pedal, FFR kit (quadrant stabilizer) and try it out.

Part of the fix with the 'FFR Clutch Fix Kit' instructs you to cut an opening in the top of your footbox allowing greater access to the pedal arm tops and the quadrant.

Assemble the 'Fix' and try it out. If it is not enough throw then notch the frame. Sounds like a good winter project.

I believe it is those of us that switched to the aftermarket hydraulic system that need more throw. However, I will not notch my frame until I know I have to. If I have to then I will limit it only to the amount I need and a bit more and then add a pedal stop.

I think the pedal switch is a good thing to do as the option to adjust the pedals pads right to left can really add to the comfort/safety/ability of driving these cars. You can also cut down on the size of the pads once you figure out how you want them spaced.

I have a customers car here now with a wilwood pedal box. It has under 2000 miles on it. The clutch pedal creaks and sticks so bad, its hard to modulate it. I know its only a matter of time before something fails. Not sure the brace will help because of all the side load on the pivot pin.
I am going to reccomend to him to convert to a hydraulic clutch. What a pain that will be on a finished car. This car has a removeable foot box cover, and it was still nearly impossible to work in there. Cant imagine trying to get that snap ring off when you cant see it.
Mike

OK still confused, have 3.1 complete kit with cable, how difficult will it be to convert to forged pedals?????? if I do this i guess i don't use the adapter they sent me?? i do have a removable foot box cover so no issue there

recieved my fix yesterday, F5R should of just e-mailed me to see if i had a quadrant or hydraulic it would of saved some parts and shipping, but thanks anyway another part i dont need.
i cant see how the pedal would break, and maybe i am ignorant but never knew about this till yesterday..............?
a hard clutch, wrong adjustment, or just a hard foot action
for the cable guys good luck putting the parts in, maybe they ought to do my fusebox mod and move the wiring harness from RF to the passenger side, laying down under the drivers footbox and reaching for the nuts and bolts plus making a access into the top of footbox that area is still hard to maintain, mine at least don't have wiring in the way. good luck

__________________"Torque is the grunt
that gets us going, and Horsepower
is the force that keeps us moving"

OK still confused, have 3.1 complete kit with cable, how difficult will it be to convert to forged pedals?????? if I do this i guess i don't use the adapter they sent me?? i do have a removable foot box cover so no issue there

I don't think FFR has seen any breakage with the newer Wilwood pedals and they have been including them with their kits since July 2010. The new Quadrant Actuator kit only affects cars built from September 2007 to June 2010. So, they are not suggesting or saying that the newer Wilwood pedals need the quadrant stabilizing.This may help answer your question.

However, note Mike Everson's post above. Seems the quadrant and it's shaft are binding. He states too that he doesn't think the kit will help. Nor, would I think in this case, would the newer pedal help alleviate the binding. The newer pedal would, though, help prevent pedal arm breakage due to the binding.

Studying FFR's solution/kit drawings it looks like they have added another point to help stabilize the pedal arm and quadrant. I still think, however, there will be a twisting/torque action transferred to the pedal. In the end, I think it helps the quadrant more than the pedal. Note above, without thinking, I called it a quadrant stabilizer. Let's see what others think as they evaluate the drawings and FFR's kit solution. Edit: I am going to change my thoughts here. I thought the pedal arms were breaking below the fulcrum point. Not so, it is breaking above the fulcrum between the two mounting points for the quadrant. So, as I now see it, the FFR kit will have a positive effect on stabilizing both the quadrant and upper pedal arm. Just as I did on the another thread I'm going to post pictures of Mike's (oxbow) broken pedal in a new post below.

If it were me and I was sticking with the cable clutch system, I would do both FFR's quadrant kit and the newer pedals. Pedals first, then kit.

To help answer part of your question, I'm sending this off to Mike (oxbow) who has done the pedal change from 'down below' without a footbox opening. Edit: I spoke with Mike today and seems he missed my email. I edited this post based on my conversation with him today.

Just finished installing the "quadrant stabilizing" kit. Took about 2.5 hours including relocating my clutch safety switch. I did get lucky in that the snap ring on the quadrant shaft was missing - probably broke off, so I didn't have to fight getting it off. The new snap ring went on fairly easily once I positioned myself under the dash (at 66, that's a chore). Most of the work was done alone; however, having my son help hold wrenches in place helped and probably saved some time. The quadrant no longer is solidly attached to the top of the clutch pedal (previously a long bolt and spacer. The pedal pushes against the new bracket which is attached to the quadrant. This should help keep the pedal arm from twisting with any side load on the quadrant. Anyway, good luck to those who make the change. I think Mike Everson's opinion that the side load is still an issue is true; however, it should have no impact on the pedal. BUt it does raise questions about the pivot shaft. Haven't heard of any of those breaking, yet.

PM me if you have any questions or ask on the forum. I check it a couple of times a day.

thanks, unfortunately my kit is from 2008, so I have the pedals in question, i received FFR kit but wondering if I should do pedals and how involved this is, I'll wait and hopefully someone can answer this

thanks, unfortunately my kit is from 2008, so I have the pedals in question, i received FFR kit but wondering if I should do pedals and how involved this is, I'll wait and hopefully someone can answer this

Larry, looks like your kit was only 15 after mine. Read my post above re: 2.5 hours to complete the conversion. It will help to have another set of hands, especially to get the beer at break time. Awkward positioning but not a bad job.

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