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Thursday, 25 July 2013

Rollicking Rakcham & Charming Chitkul – Kinnaur, Himachal

(My first Himachal Pradesh trip itinerary for exploring Kinnaur
district went awry after reaching the miniscule dwelling of scenic Rakcham. From
14th to 19th June 2013, we were holed up in hotel room
watching vagaries of Himalayan weather. We squeezed in a few hours for a trip
to Chitkul - the last village on Indo – China border. The four extra days we
spent at Rakcham were eventful. A recap of exciting and anxiety filled sojourn is worthwhile recounting.)

On morning of 12th June, after reaching Chandigarh by
early morning flight from Mumbai and finding our hired Tavera car with driver
Sohan Singh, a young Himachali, at airport departure, we were assured of
uninterrupted nine days trip of going through our chosen Kinnaur district
destinations in Himachal Pradesh.

Without going through my travel stories of first night stay at Fagu and
second night at Sarahan, I pick up the threads from the 14th
afternoon at 3.30 pm, when we three reached Hotel Rupin River View at Rakcham.
The hotel is ideally located in Baspa valley with it’s unhindered view.

Baspa river view

A refreshing cup of tea was welcome in floor 3 canteen, with a
close view of roaring Baspa river flowing by the side of hotel, in a not so
deep gorge. Looking at the vertical hill face consisting of jutting rocks, with
plentiful of pine trees above and snow on its crown, is best way to get enthused
for one’s sojourn for two nights and a full day at his scenic place. Our
allotment of floor 2 double room was not to my liking as I had planned to mount
my camera tripod in verandah to do some extensive video shooting. With the Apple
trees blocking the part of the majestic view, I was keen for a change. As luck
would have it, the Owner – ManagerNaresh Jishtu re-allotedus room
no. 303 on floor 3, with best possible view of the Baspa valley.

Snow view at Rakchan

As my friends Rajagopal and Srikanth were getting ready for
evening stroll to explore the valley, I was in the corridor - the rooms lined
on one side and fixed glass windows on the other. The giant entry gate to
Rakcham from the road would suggest the dwelling across the road as much touted
Modern Village established in 2010. The village perched on the slopes of the
hill, with beautiful looking houses - mostly wooden, looked too good for villages in the hills of India. Most of the cottages had corrugated sheet roofing and some
tiled ones. Solar powered street lights were quite evident. This village was
awarded President’s prize as depicted by one of the signage along the roadside.
We thought of exploring this village - plastic prohibited smoking banned and
liter free, the next day.

Modern Village on hill slope

Coming out of hotel, we were drawn like a magnet towards the
Baspa river, a short walk adjoining the apple orchards.We crossed the bridge over the river and came
to a tented ‘Kailash view camps.’ Two cars parked there were indicative of
families having preferred this accommodation compared to lone hotel where we
were holed up.

Kailash View Camp

We walked alongside the river through a mud track, towards
upstream and came to another tented camp named Parasol, much bigger and
possibly with more amenities. There were a few families occupying the tents. My
two friends continued theirwalk further
as I took a break for photo shooting. Very few houses and structures were
located in the valley so unlike the hill dwellings I have seen in other hill
towns in Himachal as well as other Himalayan states. Even for a cup of tea we
had no option anywhere save for the hotel or the tented camps.

Hotel Rupin River View

We returned back to hotel and came to canteen, where it is
customary to order food at least an hour in advance, so one is assured of
freshly prepared dishes as per the menu. Our choice of vegetables and chapattis
were served in due course, while we planned for next day’s program. The climate
was becoming chilly at this altitude of 10,000’. So, early to bed and under the
quilt was the best possible thing to do. Will I rise early next day to become
any wiser?

I woke up
in the morning around 5.30 am and came to verandah and was not any wiser
looking at the drizzle that made a rhythmic sound on the corrugated roofing
just above our room. I just hoped it is a typical Himalayan rain which comes
and goes in quick succession in early summer. The monsoon was not due before next
month. The Baspa valley, from verandah looked as gorgeous as it can be, flowing
downstream from extreme end and breaking into two streams and finally rejoining
before the bridge.

The hotel
compound had some apple trees and spinach planted around them. The tourists in
floor 1 rooms, which is located below the road level, had direct access to the
plot.

Bridge over Baspa river

After hot water bath and breakfast under our belt, we were back
to our favorite spot near the camp site and took a long walk towards the
glacier. Overnight rain made puddles on soft sandy soil. I took a break for
photo shooting. One exotic red bird perched on tree along the river bank was
inviting to be captured in lens. This place ( Rakcham ) is surely a bird watcher’s delight.
We were lucky to have watched half a dozen varieties perched on apple trees,
from our hotel room just seated on verandah.

Bird watch

Around 11 am we made our way back to hotel along the asphalted
sloping track, the landscape meanwhile changed for a typical rainy day in hills
with grey colored moisture bearing clouds caressing the hill top with promise
of more rains to come.

Way to hotel

By 11.15 am, Sohan Singh was ready to drive us to Chitkul – the
last dwelling on Indian side of Indo – China border. The border is some 80 km
from there with no motorable road. One can trekupto 60 km through a scenic mountain route. The drizzle made puddles of
water on the road and rain water draining from hill flowing across the road was
common but needed careful driving. Right through our trip of 10 km, Baspa river
kept us company flowing in a deep gorge in between hills parallel to the road.

Chitkul dwelling

Reaching Chitkul (3050 m), while our car was being parked, we
noticed that few more car were already stationed. Later on we came to know they
were a group of 18 Bengali tourists from Sangla, who had driven 14 km to
Rakcham and then another 10 km to Chitkul for their sightseeing trip. The place
looked much densely populated than Rakcham, with nearly a 100 houses including some
hotels and a conspicuous looking temple. The population is about 700. We were
destined to have our sightseeing trip in drizzle through gloomy and grey
looking day.

Chitkul view

As we were nearing temple, sudden warmth filled my heart. A big
group of Kinnauri visitors, in small groups, decked up in their traditional
dresses and best fineries, lazily strolling as if they were attending some
social occasion. As I neared the Chamundeshwari Devi temple ( Devi Ma temple as referred by the locals), a
large group of visitors were relishing
their breakfast. A giant open air community kitchen was working full swing to
cook their late afternoon lunch. Nearby on top of a platform a goat was being
de-skinned and dressing done prior to cooking. The Kinnauris are non-vegetarians
by their food habits. On auspicious occasions like marriage, in this case, the
goat meat is the most preferred.

Kinnauri Couple

The temple compound appeared to be desolate with temple door
locked. Along the main road, the roadside trenches built in steps, gave the
appearance of an artificial waterfall, with huge amount of gurgling water
stream threatening to carry whatever came in its path. Did it rain real heavy
up on the hills? It looked ominous!

Chamundeshwari Devi temple

After a short walk on meadows towards the river bank, we decided
to scurry back to the vehicle amidst increasing drizzle so as to reach Rakcham
earliest. Photographing in drizzle with camera lens getting wet was a risk in
itself. On return to hotel, we had a simple lunch and afternoon was spent below
the quilt; the chilly and wet weather left us with no other option.
Eveningwas just lazing around, hoping
we have a fair weather next day so as to reach Kalpa by afternoon.Yet another early dinner and and early to bed routine to get up early the
next day and hoping it for a change makes us wiser in the next morning.

The 16th morning brought me the surprise of my life
and made me actually go dumb. The atmosphere was all gray, with continuous manna
from heaven. More rain? Yes. What more? A huge icicle hanging by the corrugated
roofing above our room made me look carefully and it was not difficult to
decipher that snow was equal constituent of the down pour.

Icicles hanging from roof

The entire topography of Baspa valley had gone for a total
transformation. The sudden onset of ‘winter’ conditions in peak summer took
even the locals by surprise. They do not remember having ever seeing snowfall
in June. The ground already had an inch of snow layer. The wind along with rain
and snow made the building structures and tented camps look hazy as if seen
through giant netting. Shivering in chilling cold with wind and moisture swept
verandah and regretted that I was inadequately prepared to face these conditions.
I wondered, “what the tented camp guests will be going through. Tents canvasses
with air leaking through slits are no match for this sort of climate.”

Tented camp through snowfall

Coming to the corridor facing the modern village, the cars
parked near the hotel entry had a layer of frost on wind shield, bonnet and
body. The village houses with corrugated roofing had snow mass hanging and
still retaining the shape of corrugations with abstract design of its own.

Frosted Car

Snow mass hanging by roof

Baspa river

Snow covered Pine trees

As per our schedule we got ready to hit the trail for our next
destination of Kalpa. But, our destiny took a turn here. At 10 am as we boarded
the car with bag and baggage, the manager at hotel door step kept gesticulating
to driver suggesting that in the immediate vicinity of Rakcham, the road was blocked
with big boulders and cars will not be able to pass. We retreated to our room
and resettled to our dismay. Our itinerary had gone for a toss. It took for a
while to come to terms with the fact that we would have to wait for a few days
till the road blocks were cleared. During lunch, Mr. Saibal Gupta, staying in
family room just below the canteen narrated that at night they were jolted out
of their sleep by loud noise with boulders falling from hill into the Baspa
river and made them scary. Hence they had shifted to another room to floor 1.
We too heard the noise and felt the tremors like an earthquake shaking the
hotel structure. The rest of the day was spent indoors, chatting, viewing the
valley landscape and dreading what morrow will bring. Will the next day give us
a fair weather and obstacle free road?

17th morning dawned with another chilly day, with overnight
snowfall intensifying. Rain and snow was lashing across the valley. Not even a
square inch of the valley was spared. Our room verandah was wet and had its own
share of snow deposits. On ground, Apple tree leaves were loaded with snow. The
atmosphere was bleak, gray, chilly and gloomy.

From hotel verandah

Another no electricity and hence bathless day. With the road communication
totally disrupted, no chances of raw materials and gas for the hotel canteen.
For conserving on fuel, hot water was ruled out. The corridor through which we
got our vision from a different angle gave a much bleaker picture. The road had
at least 10” of snow. The cars were totally covered with massive deposits.The locals used to such a scenario in winter
were out in small number to get on with their activities. The hotel rooms were
fully packed with tourists from tented camps having abandoned their cherished accommodation, unable to cope up with chilled air leaking inside.

Braving chill and snow

The colorful modern village with it’s identity written on arched
gate for showing its existence was totally obscured. The village was visible through
the gray atmosphere, thanks to its colorful houses. The irony is Rakcham in
June was considered to be ideal for tourists with a salubrious climate!

Snow laden cars

The lush green valley overnight changed, being dominated with
pristine white snow, with brown muddy water of Baspa river breaking the
monotony.

Snow laden landscape

Exploring outdoor was ruled out. The excitement of seeing
unseasonal snowfall was slowly turning into gloomy thoughts of being stranded.
Most of the tourists like us had their itineraries going for a toss. There was
some ominous news from state of Uttarakahnd. Flash floods and rain had dealt a
huge blow in form of destruction of dwellings and mounting casualties in Himalalayan shrines, mainly Kedarnath. The neighboring
state of Himachal had a portion of road stretch between Sangla to Karcham
caving in, blocking the entry to National Highway NH 22. There was a talk of
helicopter service for evacuation of tourists at Sangla, which has a helipad
owned by JP group who are undertaking some dam projects in the state. The state
chief Minister himself was stranded at Sangla, during his electioneering for
by-election to Lok Sabha seat for which his wife was contesting. There were
rumors going on in hotel that at Rakcham where we were holed up will have its
helicopter evacuation also.

The next day, 18th June did not bring in any succor.
There was a helicopter winning sound possibly for a recce. Meanwhile at Sangla,
the helicopter evacuation had started. Chief Minister after getting stranded
for 60 hours was able to take the copter service to Rampur. Sangla was rumored
to have 6000 touristsholed up for
evacuation. All the hotels were full as reported.So, we were dissuaded from trekking to Sangla
for helicopter evacuation. Through the uneventful, boring and anxiety filled
day, Nareshji kept on reassuring that roads will reopen in few days.

Way to Modern Village

With snowfall stopping, it was time to have some outdoor
exploration. The roads were experiencing water flowing from hill tops and
wading in through it meant getting shoes and socks wet. Braving this, a small
walk on the asphalted road and we could view the big boulders still obstructing
the road. The smaller one’s were moved by villagers by the road side so that it
becomes walk worthy. Roaming on main road, we came to a grocery shop selling
biscuits, chocolates and tidbits. We could buy butter but no bread was
available. My need for batteries for digicam remained a dream. There were a few
more grocery shops every 100 m or so. The shop list ends here! A guest house
which could become the second accommodation in addition to Rupin river view, was found
locked.

Modern village view

Next morning we were in total dark about our further journey to
Sangla. News from Sangla was 5/6 helicopter sorties were taking place every day
with maximum 20 tourists per sortie, with still a lot of tourists still
stranded. I thought of taking a walk through the Modern village, just to break
the monotony of the hotel. The hills had drained most of the accumulated water
and snow melt and the roads were walk worthy. The sloping road took me through the
arched gate for entry to the village. The liter free, clean roads, with houses
although closely cramped had a systematic existence of its own. A pink colored
meteorological lab looked imposing but was locked.

Meteorological Lab

By 19th June, we were getting fidgety and wanted to
move as early as possible. Chill in the air was really troubling. No sign of
electricity returning for that elusive hot water bath. Only solace was we were
in comfort of hotel room with Nareshji assuring of running the canteen albeit
with limited supplies and dwindling cooking gas supply. How long? That was
going on in everybody’s mind. With no sign of motorable road getting cleared,
our driver was planning to abandon his car in care of the chowkidar of hotel
and move to his native place near Shimla. He even made a trekking trip to
Sangla a distance of 14 km and booked his helicopter evacuation sortie. By
evening Nareshji informed us that he did not foresee the motorable road opening
soon and advised us to trek 14 km downhill to Sangla the next day. We were told
to take minimum luggage as helicopter pilot at Sangla did not allow too many
luggages. We repacked all our belongings in just one individual backpack,
discarding suitcase.

On 20th June, finally, we were out of Rakcham on way
to Sangla ……….

Visuals of Rakcham & Chitkul as I recorded in my Handycam can be seen by
taking the following link.

6 comments:

Hi Prodyot: Your pictorial description is so refreshing as if I just had been to this treasure of nature. It is really sad that you were caught in the bad weather and the intended schedule was disrupted, but despite all those odds , its commendable that you accomplished your mission. Its people like you only can do.

But for the unkind disturbance of nature, what do you feel being to these places.