A swift warm up on unnamed route number 7, a 27mtr 6b onsight to set me up for my 7b project, Printemps Arabe. First crack leaves me floundering at the crux again. I can’t stick the slopers on the bulge that pushes you off the wall. I know what has to be done, but I need more strength in my fingers. Meanwhile, Yohann plays on his 7c project Los Sobraos. Another French dude onsights it and the German machine gets past the crux and falls on the jugs.

2nd try on Arabe and I get halfway through the crux, hanging from the two slopers pockets, feet off the wall. Find a footing, left hand crimp, right hand crimp, and I forget my left foot before lunging for the left hand jug and salvation. So I’m off and lower down to save strength for my next try. But I’m tired – even getting up to the crux on my 3rd try was harder than it should have been, and I fall again at the crux, this time not even making the second sloper pocket. I’m done for the day. Yohann can’t send either, and his 7c will be waiting for his next visit, as will my 7b. Here’s the German machine on an 8b+: