Bentley Turbo R and Mulsanne: Buying guide and review (1980-1997)

While the 1960s T-series is the Bentley most people initially think they want, many come to the quick realisation that you can actually buy a Turbo R for far less. The fact it's 20 years younger, offers massively improved performance and decent handling all make it the much more desirable machine too. Even the fuel economy would be slightly better – up from 13mpg to, ooh, 14mpg, say. Besides, being behind the wheel conveys so much feel-good factor that the expense doesn’t seem to matter.

Whether you go for the Mulsanne, Eight, Brooklands, Turbo R, S or RT, there is no shortage of variation within this luxurious theme. The array of models offered by Bentley throughout the 1980s and 1990s was nothing short of bewildering. Look beyond the differing trim and badging, the Turbo R variants all offer unbeatable opulence, comfort, refinement and pace.

Compared to modern day Bentleys like the Continental GT and Flying Spur, a Turbo R feels like it’s from a different age, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Climb on board and the first thing you will most likely notice is the wonderful smell of the old fashioned leather. On the road, the Turbo R is well mannered, and brisk when pushed, not that you’ll really be doing much of that.

For years these squared-off saloons were almost an embarrassment to Bentley, with neglected examples outnumbering good cars and values on the floor. Now, many of those tatty Bentleys have been broken for parts and while there are still some heaps about, the cherished examples represent a higher proportion of the cars left.

Although values are now on the up for good cars, these imposing saloons can still offer astonishing value. But while purchase costs can be on the low side you can’t run one of these cars on a shoestring, so don’t be taken in by those ‘Bentley for Mondeo money’ headlines.

Which one to buy?

There were a lot of different Mulsanne/Turbo derivatives and they drive differently depending on the wheelbase, suspension, fuelling, engine management and more. Generally, the later the car the more reliable and comfortable it is, as earlier editions weren’t so well developed.

Post-1986 cars got fuel injection, which is much more reliable than the earlier Solex carburettor. Because these cars need specialist maintenance and there’s no conversion available, you’re better off avoiding an early car and going for a fuel-injected edition instead. Fuel-injected cars don’t have these problems while they also offer better economy, although this is relative of course.

But while specification is important, condition is even more so as reviving a tired car will always cost plenty. This is why the key is to find a car that’s had plenty of money lavished on it, especially if it’s covered a high mileage. Key components ultimately wear out, with replacements generally costly, so buy a car that’s already had plenty of fresh parts. If you buy a tatty Bentley you’ll always end up seriously out of pocket by the time it’s been put right. An extra few thousand pounds spent at purchase time will invariably save you many thousands more in the long term.

Performance and specs

Engine 6750cc, V8

Power 400bhp @ 4000rpm

Torque 590lb ft @ 2000rpm

Top speed 152mph

0-60mph 6.7sec

Consumption 13mpg

Gearbox Four-speed auto

Dimensions and weight

Wheelbase 3060mm

Length 5310mm

Width 1890mm

Height 1490mm

Weight 2245kg

Common problems

• Corrosion isn’t rare, but major rot is. Walk away from any car with significant corrosion; major repairs just aren’t worth it. Because of their hand-built nature, replacement body panels don’t just slot into place; everything has to be adjusted to fit.

• Start with the rear wheelarches, sills and inner wheelarches, which tend to be hugely expensive to repair. Other corrosion hot spots include the rear valance and rear suspension spring pans.

• Running problems can be caused by all sorts of faults, so ensure the engine idles happily hot or cold, with no pinking under acceleration. However, most faults are surprisingly cheap to fix if you shop around; even a faulty engine management system on a post-1994 car can be fixed inexpensively.

• The V8 is fundamentally strong, but anti-freeze levels must be maintained. Internal corrosion is unlikely, but engines can overheat through broken fan belts or leaking hoses. The pistons will knock on an engine that’s been allowed to overheat while oil leaks are par for the course, but only weeping. Used engines are readily available – at a price.

• Two different GM automatic transmissions were used in these cars. The pre-1992 three-speed unit is strong, but the later four-speeder is smoother and offers better fuel economy. Any jerking on the test drive means large bills are looming. Even if things appear fine, check that the fluid level in the gearbox is up to the mark, that it’s not black and that it doesn’t smell of rotten eggs, pointing to a transmission that’s overheated.

• Significant rumbling or clunking from the back axle or particularly noticeable whining mean a replacement diff is needed, although the units are very tough and it’s very rare to need to resort to replacements.

• All cars have power steering; check for leaks, but the pumps very rarely give any trouble.

• Post-1990 cars got highly effective adaptive damping. Inoperative self-levelling may be seized activation rods at the back of the car; freeing these off will solve the problem, so it’s a cheap fix. However, it could be a faulty ECU or tired rear suspension spheres. If it’s the latter, it’ll feel as though the dampers have seized.

• The hydraulic brakes are effective but the handbrake usually isn’t – it needs regular adjustment. Ensure the brake pressure warning light extinguishes within 20 seconds; if it doesn’t, new spheres are needed. Every 96,000 miles or six years a costly hydraulic service is recommended, done by a specialist. Amateur meddling can lead to a wrecked system through the wrong fluid being put in.

• The later the car, the more gadgetry is fitted – and the more likely there are to be problems. Component prices vary from surprisingly cheap to hair-curlingly pricey, but it’s the labour involved in pinpointing a fault that can prove really costly. So check everything, paying close attention to the air conditioning and the cruise control.

• Cabins are swathed in Wilton, walnut and Connolly, so look for damage through neglect and/or age. Reviving a tired interior will cost thousands.

Model history

1980: The Mulsanne supersedes the T-series.

1982: The Mulsanne Turbo appears, in short or long-wheelbase forms.

1984: The Eight goes on sale; it’s a lower-spec, cheaper Mulsanne.

1985: The Turbo R arrives, quickly replacing the Mulsanne Turbo.

1987: All cars get fuel injection and anti-lock brakes.

1988: The Mulsanne becomes the Mulsanne S, with a Turbo R dashboard.

1989: The square headlamps are replaced by two round units on each side.

1997: The short-wheelbase car dies, leaving the Turbo RL (long-wheelbase) as the standard model. The final derivative is also introduced, the Turbo RT, before the Arnage takes over.

Owners clubs, forums and websites

• www.bdcl.org

• www.rrec.org.uk

• www.rroc.org

Summary and prices

Simply put, these Bentleys represent a huge amount of car for relatively little money. On the flip side, this also means that spending a huge amount of money on restoration is generally not worth the bother, unless you intend on keeping the car for many years.

For an early Mulsanne or Mulsanne Turbo, you’ll need to spend in the region of £8000 for an average condition car, while £15,000-£20,000 will get you one of the very best. Projects are out there for much less, around £3000, but will inevitably cost you a lot more in the long run.

Turbo R models are more desirable, and these range from £10,000-£30,000 depending on condition. It can often take a while for nice cars to find a home, meaning motivated sellers will potentially offer big discounts. It can be worth buying privately, although it is of course the even more important to make the necessary checks if you are doing this.

Showrooms Download Images Make Enquiry Service Centre 100 Point Checkover This is probably the last T II to have been built. Finished in Caribbean Blue with Dark Blue coachlines and whitewall tyres, with Cream interior and Cream carpets. Fitted with picnic tables and rear seat belts. We have known this car for the last 6 years and it has been maintained regardless of cost. The mileage is 77,000 with Full Service History. A unique opportunity to buy a very rare car click image to fit your screen

Showrooms Download Images Make Enquiry Service Centre 100 Point Checkover Finished in Peacock Blue with Parchment interior, with French Navy piping and French Navy carpets piped in Parchment, complemented with Walnut veneers. This car is in stunning condition throughout. Known to ourselves for last 6 years and loved and cherished by the previous owners, hence its outstanding condition throughout click image to fit your screen

Showrooms Download Images Make Enquiry Service Centre 100 Point Checkover Finished in the ever popular Wildberry, with 17 inch alloys. Magnolia interior with Mulberry piping and Mulberry carpets piped in Magnolia. 107,000 miles with Full Service History. Known to ourselves for last 8 years. Immaculate condition throughout, a stunning example click image to fit your screen