Noble Canteen, Thomas Olive, Primo Estate Winery, Morks

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats
around the country this week including Noble Canteen, Thomas Olive,
Primo Estate Winery, and Morks.

SYDNEYNoble Canteen
The high-low twist to the name speaks, in a fashion, to the way
Noble Canteen (pictured) bridges the gap between the city's
grassroots Thai places and its more ambitious offerings. There are
some questionable nightclubby touches to the décor and soundtrack
(seriously, what's with the music?), but thanks to the presence of
former Sailors Thai chef Pacharin "Air" Jantrakool in the kitchen,
the food is worthy of a detour. Things get only occasionally fiery,
but the likes of the dry red curry of pork with snake beans and the
hor mok-inspired barramundi fillets grilled in banana leaves
certainly don't want for flavour, and there's an inventiveness on
show with the noodle-crusted quail's eggs (halfway between
son-in-law eggs and their Scotch equivalents) that's easy to enjoy.
Noble Canteen, 50 King St, Sydney, (02) 9299 2929. PAT
NOURSE

CANBERRAMorks
In far-flung Florey, Morks flew somewhat under the radar, but with
a recent shift to new digs on the Kingston foreshore, it's about to
get a lot more attention. The menu still keeps to a contemporary
Thai formula, with traditional flavours meeting fine-dining
sensibilities and experimentation. Kick off with the angel prawns.
Something of a signature dish, they sizzle away in an intense
kaffir lime and coconut sauce. Slow-cooked duck with red curry
sauce, lychees and crisp rice cake stands out among the main
courses. Complementary aromatic whites are a highlight of the
concise wine list. And with family members in the kitchen and on
the floor, there's a warmth of service here pretty much unmatched
in the nation's capital. Morks, 18/19 Eastlake Pde, Kingston
Foreshore, ACT, (02) 6259 0112. GARETH MEYER

MELBOURNEThomas Olive
Collingwood's Saint Crispin has struck such a chord with diners
that owner-chefs Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac have upped their
booking receptionist numbers from one to three. This Friday they're
hoping to repeat the magic with the bar crowd by opening their
upstairs bar, Thomas Olive. The freshly painted and plastered
space, reached via stairs in the courtyard behind the restaurant,
is decked out with Chesterfield couches and French bistro tables.
The bar is overseen by Scottish bartender James Tate (formerly of
Der Raum and Tonka), who will be cutting his own ice, reworking
classic 1930s cocktails, bumping up the whisky lists and serving up
a series of snacks from the kitchen downstairs. Pickett says that
Saint Crispin signatures such as snap, crackle and pop, and eel
croquettes feature on the list but that the combination of "salty,
sour and sweet things" will be a moveable feast. Thomas Olive,
Upstairs, 300 Smith St, Collingwood, Vic, (03) 9419 2202.
MICHAEL HARDEN

SOUTH AUSTRALIAPrimo Estate Winery
Fleurieu Peninsula farmers Ed Vercoe and Nick Hart have
established a small Chianina herd (one of only two in Australia) at
Carrickalinga, and to celebrate the first animals being ready for
sale Primo Estate Winery is hosting a feast at its cellar door on
Saturday 2 November. Nigel Rich, chef-proprietor of The Elbow Room
restaurant in McLaren Vale, will be on site to cook a beast and
present it through multiple courses: a mini burger with smoked
tomato chutney; carpaccio with baby radish, horseradish, ginger
beer jelly and Chianina jerky; slow-braised shoulder with barbecued
artichoke and stinging nettles; and a bistecca Fiorentina. Primo
owner-winemaker Joe Grilli will also present his aged Joseph wines
beside new releases. Primo Estate Winery, McMurtrie Rd, McLaren
Vale, SA, (08) 8323 6800. DAVID SLY

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