Sample Monterey County’s 3 food groups

1of6Carlos Bernardino prepares the fried calamari at Sand Bar & Grill in Monterey.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

2of6Carlos Bernardino plates the fried calamari at Sand Bar & Grill in Monterey.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

3of6Executive chef Cy Yontz, prep Castroville artichoke for an appetizer at Rio Grill in Carmel-by-the-Sea.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

4of6Castroville artichoke with sun-dried tomato aioli at Rio Grill.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

5of6Erik Ruelas hands a samples of the Monterey-style clam chowder to John Nichols outside the Old Fisherman’s Grotto in Monterey.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

6of6Clam chowder with shrimp at Old Fisherman’s Grotto.Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle

The traditional foods of a place help tell its story. The most time-honored foods of Monterey County tell one of agriculture, fishing and influences ranging from Italian to Japanese. All three of them are served as appetizers, though they’ve got enough character and caloric power to carry a meal. But hey — smaller portions of each mean eaters can have all three in one sitting.

Rio Grill: This artichoke recipe could appear in the dictionary with the definition “This is how it’s done.” Executive chef Cy Yontz often goes through 50 of them a day. He and his team go about it like this: Source from family-owned Pezzini Farm, boil the artichoke in white wine and lemon, fill the inside cavity with herb balsamic vinaigrette, wrap it in foil, throw it in the firebox’s hot kindling and then grill it, before splashing it with more vinaigrette and adding dried-tomato aioli on the side. Lunch and dinner daily. 101 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel; (831) 625-5436. www.riogrill.com

The Giant Artichoke: They do more than a dozen types of artichoke preparations beneath a huge artichoke totem in the heart of Castroville, the world’s artichoke capital — and the thousands of thistles for the annual Artichoke Festival every summer. (This year is the 58th annual, Saturday and Sunday, June 3-4, at the Monterey Fairgrounds.) They make fresh steamed, fire-roasted and signature battered-and-fried ’chokes, in addition to jalapeno-artichoke dip, spinach-artichoke dip, artichoke nachos, artichoke bread, artichoke cupcakes, artichoke omelets, artichoke eggs Benedict, artichoke pesto pastas, artichoke enchiladas and a spinach-oatmeal-artichoke veggie burger. There’s a reason it’s been an institution for a half century. 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, 11261 Merritt St., Castroville; (831) 633-3501.

Abalonetti: Meet Faustino Perez. He’s one major reason Abalonetti is a different creature when it comes to calamari. He works 40 hours a week, as he has for more than a decade, cleaning squid — happily — at a clip of 225 pounds a shift. Bizarrely enough, many other Monterey operations ship their local calamari to China for cleaning. Not this place, which features calamari done 20 different ways, including Buffalo hot wing style and the craveable time-honored Marty’s Special, flash-fried over fried eggplant with Parmesan and mozzarella and a Sicilian marinara that simmers for 10 hours. Lunch and dinner daily. 57 Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey; (831) 373-1851. www.abalonettimonterey.com

Passionfish: The sustainable seafood trailblazers at Passionfish do otherworldly crab-avocado towers, smoked trout ceviche tostaditas and a striking striped bass crudo. So their comparatively classic calamari can go overlooked — at diners’ peril. The crispiness and freshness speak for themselves, and chef Ted Walter’s sauce elevates things considerably. He always uses a citrus base with some heat, but rotates the other ingredients. The sauce of the moment: tangerine-sesame-habanero-ginger, with a green onion-cilantro salad on the side. Dinner nightly. 701 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove; (831) 655-3311. www.passionfish.net

Sandbar & Grill: The place is unique, tucked under the municipal wharf with harbor views, Bloody Marys, happy hour deals and crab sandwiches that make it a locals’ favorite. The calamari is unique too, served after a good pounding and frying in mini steak-like bites instead of tubes and tentacles (though that’s an option too, as are full-size steaks). It comes expertly crispy and grease-free, as satisfying as any squid served by the bay. Lunch and dinner daily. Wharf No. 2, Monterey; (831) 373-2818. www.sandbarandgrillmonterey.com

Clam chowder

Louie Linguini’s: Its prime oceanfront spot on the apron of Cannery Row’s Steinbeck Plaza draws tourists. Its chowder draws the affection of judges and attendees at the annual West Coast Chowder Competition, where it’s won as much as any other soup. The secret, says General Manager Lance Koehler, is adding the right fresh ingredients at the right times, including fresh clams, oregano, heavy cream, just a touch of salt and gourmet pancetta. Other than that, he adds, “good chowder is about giving it a lot of time and love.” Louie Linguini’s has worked on the recipe for 20 years, starting at the first of its two locations, in San Francisco. Lunch and dinner daily. 660 Cannery Row, Monterey; (831) 648-8500. www.louielinguinis.com

Old Fisherman’s Grotto: A local favorite. Ample garlic and butter help elevate the thick and velvety dream, though recipe insight beyond those ingredients is understandably not something they’re willing to divulge. The same preparation, with the clams chopped small, is also available at sister spots Scales Seafood & Steaks (across Fisherman’s Wharf) and the Fish Hopper (on Cannery Row). Lunch and dinner daily. 39 Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey; (831) 375-4604. www.oldfishermansgrotto.com

Vivolo’s Chowder House: The hint on what to order here is right there in the name. The best way to get it is in the sourdough bread bowl with its lid toasted with garlic and cheese. The chowder comes piping hot, and every bite bursts with tender raisin-size clams and a complex and peppery flavor that climaxes with an indulgent richness that goes beyond buttery but steers clear of getting heavy. Lunch and dinner daily. 127 Central Ave., Pacific Grove; (831) 372-5414. www.vivoloschowderhouse.com