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Category Archives: My Travel Experiences

Donegal Town in County Donegal is located on Donegal Bay at the base of the Bluestack Mountains. The River Eske flows into Donegal Bay. Like most Irish towns it is charming and picturesque with a town centre known as the Diamond, which is an open pedestrian area surrounded by hotels, shops, pubs, restaurants and coffee houses. One restaurant that stands out that I visited several times was “The Blueberry”, with lunches, dinners and delicious desserts.

While in Donegal I stayed at the Abbey Hotel, which was very conveniently located because upon arriving in Donegal by Bus Éireann from Letterkenny, the bus stop is right in front of the Abbey Hotel, and even better the hotel is right on The Diamond.

While in Donegal I took a boat trip on Donegal Bay and visited Donegal Castle. From Donegal I took a day-long tour with Donegal Tours (www.donegaltours.ie), which I highly recommend as a tour company. They use smaller mini vans which makes the atmophere of the tour more friendly and enjoyable.

With Donegal Tours, I visited the following point of interests:

The spectacular Slieve League Sea Cliffs are one of the highest marine cliffs in the whole of Europe, with a six hundred metre drop down to the ocean, part of the Wild Atlantic Way. Glencolmcille and the Folk Village is a collection of beautiful, traditional thatched cottages. It offers an insight into how the local people lived over the past 200 years. Ardara, a Heritage Town, is home to the ‘Donegal Tweed’ and one of Ireland’s best known traditional centres of tweed and knitwear production. Final stop was at the Glengesh Pass a glaciated valley that was created 12,000 years ago.

When I left Donegal, I caught the bus right in front of the Abbey Hotel with direct service to Sligo. Once in Sligo, I took a train back to Dublin where I stayed one night before taking a plane back to Ottawa.

Letterkenny from its Irish roots means “Hillside of the O’Cannons” and is the largest town in County Donegal. The best part of Letterkenny is that it is close to one of the most beautiful parks I have ever visited, the Genveagh National Park and the Glenveagh Castle and Gardens which is set in 16,500 hectares of mountains, lakes, glens and woods.

Glenveagh Castle was built between 1870 and 1873, by Captain John Adair, and is defined as being “castellated” which means it has battlements like a castle, but it is not used for defense. Surrounded by the famous Glenveagh Gardens, its construction in a remote mountain setting was inspired by the Victorian idyll of a romantic highland retreat. John Townsend Trench designed it.

The first photos in this mosaic are of the town of Letterkenney and include street views, its major church, an antique shop, a monument and a very interesting hat shop that I would definitely go to to buy a hat if I was to go to the Queen’s races!

The photos following the ones of the town are those of Glenveagh National Park and Gardens. I hope that I have captured the beauty of this incredible place.

Westport is a town in County Mayo at the south-east corner of Clew Bay, an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean on the west coast of Ireland. A popular tourist destination, it scores high marks for quality of life. It won the Irish Tidy Towns Competition three times in 2001, 2006 and 2008. In 2012 it won the Best Place to Live in Ireland competition run by The Irish Times. The famous pilgrimage mountain of Croagh Patrick lies 10 km west of the town, forming a backdrop to the town and Clew Bay.

Westport House is a much visited tourist attraction owned by the Hughes family. It is situated in a parkland setting with the lovely Carrowbeg River nearby along with terraces and garden views.

There are several forest walks starting at Westport House. One walk takes you to The Quay and Clew Bay. The quay was once busy port but it is no longer used for commercial shipping, but is now known for its many warehouse conversions, restaurants, pubs and a museum. From here, one gets an interesting perspective of Ireland’s Holy Mountain, Croagh Patrick.

A shorter Looped Riverside Walk, of about 1.5km, starts at Westport House, goes across the lawn, over the old stone bridge and follows the Carrowbeg River to a red bridge which takes you back to Westport House and charming views of the house. Near the old stone bridge you can rent a Swan Pedaloe to explore the little lake there.

Grace O’Malley was a pirate who defied Elizabeth 1, the English monarch, for almost 40 years by plundering English ships and fiercely repelling the forces that tried to take her family’s land. She was born around 1530 to Owen O’Malley, the chieftain of a clan who ruled the area around Clew Bay for more than 300 years. During that time, they built wealth from both piracy and legitimate trade with France and Spain.

Listowel is also known as the Literary Capital of Ireland, as many famous Irish authors come from Listowel and the annual Writers’ Week is held there at the beginning of June. For example, John Brendan Keane (1928 – 2002) was an Irish playwright, novelist and essayist from Listowel, famously known for his play “The Field”, which was also made into a movie. He was very much influenced by the local population and the patrons of his Listowel pub (which today is run by his son Billy) from which he based some of his characters on.

Listowel is a typical, friendly Irish town with everything within walking distance of its colourful main street and with many restaurants and pubs. You’ll never have to walk far to find a Guinness. The River Feale runs alongside Listowel with a charming scenic river walk through forested area that passes by an ancient stone bridges and leads one to a lovely garden with flowers in bloom when I was there in June.

I attended the Listowel Writers’ Week in June 2018 and what a bustle of literary activity it was, from literary workshops, plays, political discussions, poetry, talks and author interviews, author readings and even a literary and historical bus tour to Ballybunion and a stop at The Thatch pub in Lisselton.

I thoroughly enjoyed Writers’ Week and recommend it to anyone who wants to learn more about Irish writers, Irish theatre and have a bit of “craic” (defined as Irish fun, gossip, jokes, entertainment or lively conversation) at one of the many local pubs, or at the Listowel Arms Hotel where registration for the writers’ week was held and where many events took place. The Listowel Arms Hotel is a traditional hotel run by the O’Callaghan family and is located right in the centre of this quaint heritage town.

Listowel hosts many other annual festivals including the Listowel Races in September and the Listowel Food Fair in November.

Across the street from the Listowel Arms Hotel is St. Mary’s Church and within the church is St. John’s Theatre, the venue where the many plays during Writers’ Week took place. St. John’s Theatre is a premier venue for the promotion of the visual and performing arts and features the best local, national and international in theatre, music and dance. Annually St. John’s hosts approximately 160 arts events comprising of 80 theatre presentations, 60 music/dance events and 20 exhibitions.

Listowel Castle was the last bastion against Queen Elizabeth I in the First Desmond Rebellion. It was built in the 15th century and was the last fortress of the Geraldines. It has been restored to some of its former glory and is one of the best examples of Anglo-Norman architecture in County Kerry. It is open to the public for tours on a daily basis.

I left Listowel by bus to travel to Westport. The bus stop was right on the town square a two-minute walk from the Listowel Arms Hotel. Nothing is too far away in Listowel!

Ballybunion is a coastal town and seaside resort in County Kerry, Ireland, on the Wild Atlantic Way, 15 km from the town of Listowel. The famous Castle Green, where Ballybunion Castle sits, divides the two main beaches, with the Ladies Beach on the right and the Mens Beach to the left, names given to the fact that both sexes swam on separate beaches on the orders of the local parish priest, who, in days past, walked it daily to ensure the rule wasn’t broken. A wonderful tradition of Ballybunion is their Seaweed Baths, featuring sea water with kelp.

The ruins of Ballybunion Castle stand proudly on the cliff top overlooking the sandy beaches. It was constructed in the early 1500s by a branch of the Geraldine, the Fitzmaurices, who were lords of County Kerry.

I traveled to Ireland in June 2018. I absolutely love Ireland, the scenery is pastoral with its many shades of green, its towns are charming and colourful, and the Irish are friendly and hospitable. It’s no wonder that the Gaelic expression “cead mile failte” which means “one hundred thousand welcomes” truly applies in Ireland.

The 2018 trip included a few days in Dublin, a trip by train to Tralee, County Kerry to visit friends and to revisit Killarney National Park. I went on to travel to Listowel where I took in several events related to their Writers’ Week. I traveled by bus from Listowel to Westport, Westport to Letterkenny and Letterkenny to Donegal. From Donegal I went by bus to Sligo where I caught a train back to Dublin.

Bus and train travel throughout Ireland is very efficient and comfortable and I highly recommend it as a way to get around. No need to adjust to driving on the left-hand side of the road along narrow roadways. I’ve heard that some people take to it like a fish to water, and others white knuckle it the whole time! I decided not to tempt fate and figure out which kind of driver I was.

The Orchha Fort was built following the founding of the Orchha State in 1501 AD by Rudra Pratap Singh. The Orchha Fort complex houses a large number of ancient monuments consisting of the fort, palaces, temple and other edifices. It is located in Orchha town in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh.

The fort complex, accessed from an arched causeway, leads to a large gateway followed by a large quadrangular open space which is surrounded by palaces such as Raja Mahal or Raja Mandir, Sheesh Mahal, Jahangir Mahal, a temple, gardens and pavilions. Notable architectural features in the fort complex are projected balconies, open flat areas and decorated latticed windows.

The Kajuraho Temple Site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a group of Hindu and Jain temples. The temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures.

Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 and 1050 by the Chandela dynasty. Historical records note that the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers Of these, only about 25 temples have survived, spread over 6 square kilometers. Of the various surviving temples, the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures with intricate details, symbolism and expressiveness of ancient Indian art.

One of my most moving experiences was going on a boat ride on the Ganges to experience the cremation of bodies in the evening. It was moving because it is a ceremony that goes back centuries and is so much a part of Hindu religious belief and culture. While out on the Ganges, everyone on our tour group put small candles onto the river to remember people close to us who had passed away.

We returned to the River Ganges early in the next morning before dawn to see the sun rise over the waters of the Ganges. It is one of the most beautiful sites I’ve ever seen. I hope my photos capture this incredible experience.

Varansi, on the banks of the Ganges in North India, is one of the oldest cities in the world. Archaeological remains dating back to the year 1200 BC have been found at Varansi. Varanasi was important for both Hinduism and Buddhism and both appeared to coexist peacefully.

It is the holiest of the seven holy cities in India. Death in Varanasi brings Hindus salvation (moksha). This means the cycle of reincarnation ends and you go directly to heaven.

There are about 200 Hindu funerals (cremations) per day at Varanasi at various ghats along the Ganges River. Ghats in Varanasi are riverfront steps leading to the banks of the River Ganges. Most were rebuilt after 1700 AD. The city has about 88 ghats, most of which are for bathing and ceremonies, while two ghats are used exclusively as cremation sites, where the bodies are burned and the ashes thrown into the Ganges.

Cremation is extremely important to Hindus. They believe it releases the individual’s spiritual essence from the transitory physical body so it can be reborn. If not done, the soul will be disturbed and not find its way to its proper place in the afterlife and come back and haunt living relatives. Fire is chosen as the method to dispose of the dead because of its association with purity and its power to scare away harmful ghosts, demons and spirits.

Indigenous name: Rapa Nui; Spanish name: Isla de Pascua

Landscape of Easter Island dotted with extinct volanoes

Typical scenery on Easter Island, looking out to the sea

A bit of history: Rapa Nui, or Easter Island, is a volcanic Polynesian island in the Pacific Ocean, approximately 3,510 km west of Chile. It is located at the most southeastern point of the Polynesian Triangle (other vertices are New Zealand to the West and Hawaii to the North) and is one of the world’s most remote inhabited islands with an area space of only 63.1 square miles. Members of its indigenous community are referred to as Rapa Nui. The original settlers of Rapa Nui were of South-east Polynesian descent, most likely from either the Gambier Islands(1,600 miles way) or the Marquesas Islands (2,000 miles away), settling the Easter Island sometime around 800 to 1,200 AD; there is still a lot of debate about the exact date. Easter Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Many wild horses roaming free on the Easter Island

Indigenous Easter Islanders’ oral tradition regarding the original settlers state that a Polynesian chief, Hotu Matu’a, arrived on the island in large canoes with his wife and extended family. The actual name, Easter Island, originated with the European explorer Jacob Roggeveen, who first saw the island on Easter Sunday, 1722.Easter Island is on a lot of travellers’ wish list and for good reason. The enigmatic statues, called Moia, are nothing short of astounding. Who made them? How did they transport these huge statues weighing tons? What is their significance?

Moia at Anakena Beach, some with hats

I will try to answer some of these compelling questions as we explore the Easter Island together. With the exception of Moia at Ahu Akivi, all of them stand with their backs to the sea, looking inward to the land, watching and perhaps even guarding over the communities that existed at that time. Most archaeologists believe that the Moia represent the spirits of ancestors, chiefs, or high-ranking males who had passed away.

Ahu Tongariki site with 15 Moia, notice they have backs to the sea and look inwards to where the community would have been.

Ahu Tongariki with distinct Ahu or platform below the statues.

They were placed on rectangular stone platforms called Ahu, some of which are tombs for the people that the statues represented. The Moia were constructed most likely starting around 1,200 AD and continuing into the 17th century. All the Moia we see today were reconstructed and refurbished on their Ahu platforms (about 50). The Easter Island experienced upheaval and conflict starting in the 17th century which led to the “Huri Moai” phase, or toppling of the Moai. By the mid-nineteenth century, all Moai had fallen either due to earthquakes or deliberate toppling by warring.

On average, the statues are 13 feet (4 meters) tall and weigh 14 tons, but the largest erected statue called “Paro” is located at Ahu Te Pito Kura and is 9.8 metres high and weighs 74 metric tons; the largest statue remains at the quarry Rano Raraku, “El Gigante” is 21 metres high and weighs an estimated 170 metirc tons. They must have figured he would have been just to heavy to move!

Rano Raraku Quarry where most statues on the Easter Island came from

My favourite statue at Rano Raraku Quarry

Practically all statues were carved from the quarry at Rano Raraku, an extinct volcanic crater, from tuff (a compressed volcanic ash), then they were transported to various locations around the island. It is believed that carving of the Moai started around 1,200 AD and continued until about 1,680 AD. The head, three-eighths the size of the whole statue, is characterized by a long snubbed nose, deeply inset eyes, prominent cheekbones, fine lips, a prominent chin and large ears. Some wear a cylinder-like hat made of red stone. It is estimated by archeologists that there are between 887 and 1,000 Moai on the Easter Island with over 300 still remaining at Rano Raraku, 230 were moved to other parts of the Easter Island and others lay broken or buried. They were most likely moved to their final destination by using a combination of a sled and/or rollers.

Type of stone used to carve the Moai

The building of the Moai, associated with the Ancestor Cult, ended sometime in the 17th century. This Ancestor Cult, a political system, centred around a King and his sons, hereditary leaders, who inherited power and who would then lead the various tribes or “Mata” of the island. This chiefly kinship system was very common in Polynesia.

It is difficult to say if the Ancestor Cult was replaced or ran alongside the “Tangata Manu” or the birdman ritual until the arrival of the Catholic missionaries in 1864. What is known is that the building of Moia significantly fell away in the 17th century.

The offshore islet of Motu Nui where the egg of the sooty tern was collected.

Rano Kau Volcano; the competitor would have to scale the sea-side cliff of Rano Kau with the egg from Motu Nui

The birdman ritual was a competition based in the village of Orongo situated near the cliffs of the volcano Rano Kau, once the nesting place of the “manutara” bird, or sooty tern. During the birdman competition the objective was to obtain the first egg of the season from the offshore islet Motu Nui. A representative from each tribe of the island would descend the sheer cliff at Orongo, swim to Motu Nui, find the first egg, swim back, and scale the cliff of Rano Kau. The first one to bring back an egg would win the title of “tangata-manu” or birdman of the year for his chieftain thus winning great privileges for themselves and their tribe. With the introduction of Christianity, the Birdman cult ended. Did the Birdman cult co-exist with the Moia-based system, or did it replace it? No one knows for sure.

Anakena Beach

The Easter Island is an absolutely fascinating place to visit and I recommend it highly not only for its enigmatic Moia statues and fascinating and mysterious history, but for its interesting geography of extinct volcanic craters that dot the landscape, its roaming wild horses, lovely Anakena Beach, its often rough and rocky coastline, excellent seafood restaurants, beautiful sunsets, Polynesian shows and also sense of tranquility that pervades the island, one of the most remote in the world referred to by some as the “Te pito o te henua” or “the Navel of the World.”

Looking down on part of Hanga Roa from nearby Rano Kau volcano

The Capital City of Easter Island: Hanga Roa located in the south-western part of the island is the main town and capital of Easter Island. It is a small town (you’d never get lost walking around it and everything is accessible within walking distance) with a population of just over three thousand, most residents of the Easter Island live in Hanga Roa.

Polynesian show at KariKari in Hanga Roa

Horseback riding on the street in Hanga Roa

If you go to the Easter Island, staying in Hanga Roa will allow access to many fine seafood restaurants, car and bike rental places, tourist and artisan shops, guided tours of the island and Polynesian shows. If you stay outside the town, you’d better pick up a rental car once you arrive in Hanga Roa! The airport is a short, five-minute drive into town, and I would say without exception all hotels, inns and B&Bs offer the courtesy of a pick-up from the airport and drive you back to it when you leave.

Important tip: When you arrive at the airport on the Easter Island, you must buy an entry to the National Park. Many of the sites you’ll want to visit are within the National Park.

Moia just outside Hanga Roa

Not-to-miss sites: Anakena Beach, Rano Raraku (the quarry), Ahu Tongariki, Orongo Ceremonial Centre where you also find the Rano Kau Volcano. As my brother says, everything else is icing on the cake. There are several Moia just outside the town of Hanga Roa within walking distance and also a very good museum, again just outside Hanga Roa, (with English translations) worth visiting to get a grasp on the history of Easter Island, its culture and Moia.

Stone houses at Orongo, just on the other side is the steep cliff looking out over the islet of Motu Nui where the birdman competition took place.

The day seemed to start out well enough, warm and sunny with a piercing blue sky. My plan was to rent a car to travel to three nearby places: elegant, high-class Jose Ignacio, the Lussich Arboretum and nearby Piriapolis, which is west from Punta del Este. The rental company brought the car to the Hotel Atlantico, where I was staying while in Punta del Este. I was all set to go except the older model Garmin GPS was not working well, most likely as a result of older software technology. I have a friend who has a Garmin and hers is also tricky to use.

I often use my cell phone back home as a GPS device, so I know how easy a GPS can be to work with, and the Garmin was not approaching this level of efficiency. Why didn’t I purchase a local SIM card for my cell phone while in Punta del Este? For my purposes, it really wasn’t necessary. I finally cancelled the rental car. Driving in unfamiliar territory without a working GPS, for someone like myself who can be directionally challenged didn’t seem like a good idea. If my daughters are reading this, I can almost hear them giving a collective sigh of relief that I didn’t rent the car!

Well no problem, I chose to take a bus to Piriapolis, at least I’d see one destination on the wish list. Luckily I arrived at the bus terminal just in time to purchase a ticket for the 12:00 noon bus.

The first thing I saw as I walked into Piriapolis, the massive Argentino Hotel on the waterfront

About fifty minutes later I arrived in Piriapolis and walked into town looking for tourist information. Tuesday is the only day they are closed! Oh well, the town is fairly compact, so I found my way to the main street that runs parallel to a boardwalk along the beachfront. On the other side of town there’s a lovely marina and close to it is a gondola that takes you up the side of the hill. It’s something I had read about and was looking forward to. The top of the hill would give me an aerial view of Piariapolis, the local countryside and an opportunity for some nice photos. Only problem was that the gondola was closed for maintenance! Not my lucky day.

On the way back to the beachfront I passed the Hotel Colon, with an interesting mix of architectural styles.

Beautiful beach at Piriapolis

It was a short distance back to the central part of town, so this time I took a relaxing stroll along the beach with the whitest sand I’ve ever seen, had a bite to eat, discovered some tourist shops and purchased a few items. For me, it was a relaxing day with just enough time to get back to bus terminal for my return trip to Punta del Este.

Looking back towards the Piriapolis Marina and the hill where the gondola usually operates

A bit about Piriapolis: It is a summer resort town, and was founded in 1890 by Francisco Piria, thus the name Piriapolis. He built a castle as his personal residence and from 1920-1930 he constructed the Argentino Hotel one of the biggest hotels in South America at that time.

Back at the Piriapolis bus terminal awaiting the bus back to Punta del Este, still smiling.

This is the Atlantic, or rough side, note that this side of the peninsula is lined with high rises, just like on the Rio de la Plata side

The peninsula of Punta del Este stretches out like a long, narrow finger into the ocean with a purpose, at the end of the peninsula and at its most southerly point is the place that marks, more or less, the divide between the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean on the east side of the peninsula, and the end of the Rio de la Plata River on the west side. The Atlantic side is much rougher, and it’s where you’ll see surfers riding the waves, it is called the Brava side which in Spanish means fierce.

This is the Rio de la Plata side, which is calmer

The west side is defined as the Rio de la Plata side is called the Mansa side, the Spanish word for tame. To be precise, there is no absolute boundary that marks the end of the Rio de la Plata River and the beginning of the South Atlantic Ocean, and in fact the two waters mix at certain points.

Lovely Mansa Beach

Boardwalk on the Mansa side

Golden sand on Mansa side

At the beginning of the 16th century, the Spanish were the first Europeans to set foot in Punta del Este. Today it has become a beach resort for Argentineans, other South Americans and even those from Europe. And for good reason, its beaches with lovely golden sand stretch for miles on either side of the peninsula. Activities include sailing, surfing windsurfing and snorkeling. At the end of the peninsula is the famous landmark lighthouse, Faro de Punta del Este. Like the rest of Uruguay, the season is reversed with the Canadian one. In Uruguay, the hottest month is February and the coldest month is July. When I was in Punta del Este from November 23 for six days, temperatures were mostly in the mid-80s F.

Los Dedos de Punta del Este

Punta del Este’s most famous sculpture are the fingers reaching up from the sand on the Atlantic side, called La Mano (the hand)de Punta del Este or Los Dedos (the fingers). Chilean artist, Mario Irarrazabal, created the sculpture in 1982. It is said that the hand represents a warning to swimmers on this Atlantic side of the peninsula where the waters are rougher. He later made similar sculptures for the city of Madrid, in the Atacama Desert in Chile and in Venice.

Casapueblo at Punta Ballena, built by artist Carlos Paez Vilaro

A high point of my visit to Punta del Este was taking a half-day tour with Novo Turismo (wwwnovaturismor.com.uy). With this tour we visited several points within the city limits of Punta del Este, the last stop was a little up the coast to Punta Ballena to Casapueblo, a house built by Uruguayan painter and sculptor, Carlos Paez Vilaro. He worked on the house for over 36 years starting in 1958. It is a testament to the artist who wanted to share this beautiful spot with visitors.

The author at Casapueblo

When I first saw it, it reminded me of the architecture of the famous Spanish architect, Gaudi whose many buildings are seen in Barcelona. Here, on display, are Vilaro’s works of art including paintings, sculptures and ceramics. The high point of the visit here is to see the sunset. As the sun goes down, there is a recording of Vilaro’s voice talking about life and the beauty of nature. Even though it was in Spanish, one could almost feel what he was describing. His son was one of the survivors of the plane that crashed into the Andes in 1972.

Sunset at Casapueblo

Leonel Viera Bridge

Punta del Este is joined to the La Barra area by a famous “rolling” bridge that rises and falls like a roller coaster or the waves of the ocean, designed by engineer Leonel Viera. I’ve never had so much fun going over a bridge! This bridge is defined as a “stressed ribbon bridge” and was built between 1963-1965.

Touristy Shop in La Barra for hippies too..

The La Barra area has many shops, pubs and discos – a great place for the younger set to hang out.

But no marijuana for sale!

Some of the great staff at Atlantico Hotel in Punta del Este

While in Punta del Este I stayed at the Atlantico Hotel. And I have to say I had a very pleasant stay there. The hotel has the nicest staff! They are all so helpful, cheerful and offered suggestions of what to see. If there is a problem they fix it very quickly. I highly recommend this hotel to anyone who is planning to visit Punta del Este.

Reception area at Atlantico Hotel

It is situated almost at the end of the peninsula, so is in a quiet area, a stone throw’s away from the famous lighthouse, and a ten-minute walk to the beaches or main street for shopping. The harbour and several restaurants are a few minutes walk away. It’s about a fifteen minute walk to the central bus station; it was from there that I took a bus to go to Piriapolis.

I can’t leave out some experiences with food, as humble as they are. I’ll be honest, I did not find great cuisine at Punta del Este. I ordered a tuna salad on one occasion and got big chunks of raw tuna. I ordered a steak on one occasion, and I got what looked like a mini roast, a bit much for my small appetite. Perhaps the summer season wasn’t in full swing yet, so they were still gearing up for the summer crowd. or it just might be that the cuisine in Punta del Este is more traditional

I did however find a great ice cream shop: Gelateria Artecchino

Owners of Cilantro, Santiago and Juan Martin Gomes

A newly opened place for lunch called Cilantro had great sandwiches and quiches. When I arrived at Cilantro they had only been open a couple of days, but the sandwich I ordered was delicious, so I wish them the best of luck. It’s run by two brothers, and I think they are trying to get away from a meat-oriented menu to something that has more choices in the salad and vegetarian department. Based on what I tried, and the nice and friendly service that went along with it, I believe they’re going to be successful.

And there’s nothing more South American than the Empanada. This fellow was selling them on the street — delicious cheese and spinach Empanada.

Chivito Sandwich

I will finish the cuisine section with an Uruguayan delicacy, the famous Chivito sandwich. One sees this sandwich on offer at many restaurants in Uruguay, and it’s one that I just couldn’t bring myself to test out. I just wasn’t up to the challenge! It contains thick slices of beef, and added in are ham, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, fried egg, onion, mayo and olives. A real heart attack on a plate! There is even a Canadian version, a “Chivito Canadiense” that adds in crispy bacon and then there is the “Chivito al Plato” which has all the ingredients, but without the bun.

I decided to revisit Colonia, a charming, colonial town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site which was originally settled by the Portuguese in 1680) as I had very fond memories of having visited it in 2005 from Buenos Aires. Back then myself and a friend, Diane, took a hydrofoil across the Rio de la Plata River from Buenos Aires which took about one hour. This time I took a bus tour from Montevideo, about 160 kilometre trip.

Looking down the street to the harbour

Why is Colonia so charming? It simply exudes its old colonial history with cobble stone streets and old colonial style buildings, no hustle and bustle here. The feel of the town is very laid back where no one is in rush, so I automatically slowed my pace to take in the sites and soak up the history. Because of its UNESCO status, its historic part is maintained as such. You can rent a golf cart to get around the town if you wish!

Lots of restaurants and coffee shops in Colonia

Bougainvillea in bloom in Colonia

Colonia has earned its right to a relaxing atmosphere as its past is anything but peaceful. It held a very strategic location as a vital trade route both as a port city on the Rio de la Plata and with close access to the Uruguay River, thus offering easy entry to the interior of the country and Brazil. Colonia often became a disputed territory between Portugal and Spain, where possession of it went back and forth between them many times, accounting for a very tumultuous history.

Can you tell I loved the Bougainvillea?

I remember this old Ford from my visit to Colonia in 2005!

And because of this one sees both Portuguese and Spanish influence in the architecture and roadways of Colonia. Portugal built with stone and Spain built with brick, some buildings have an interesting combination of both stone and brick.

The author with a cappuccino, relaxing

It’s an easy town to see in an afternoon, as its historic centre is quite small, with many shops, coffee shops, lovely restaurants and several museums. There is a lighthouse that you can climb up to get a view of the town and surrounding area. I heard that it was worth at least one stay overnight because of the lovely atmosphere created by the old fashioned street lamps that come on at night. There are many small hotels and hostels to accommodate guests.

It appears that fish drive cars in Colonia!

Main actor and director of the film taking a break

The day I was in Colonia a film was being made of an English General, complete with an old fashioned carriage and horses and costumes. What a thrill to observe a film being made! I even shared a few words with the main actor and wished him well with the film

Every city has its underbelly, its dark secrets, its intrigue. But the story I’m about to tell you is about a daring prison escape through Montevideo’s underground tunnels. I learned about it by joining another walking tour by http://www.curiosofreetour.com.uy, led by George its CEO.

Photo of the entrance to the jail in 1971

Back in 1971, in the Punta Carretas area of Montevideo, the Punta Carretas jail held 106 political prisoners which were about to be liberated.

Entrance to Punta Carretas Shopping Centre today

Today, the same space the jail occupied has been transformed into the classy Punta Carretas Shopping Centre. The arched entranceway to the Shopping Centre is exactly the same one that led to the prison.

Serrana Auliso and her house in the background. The room on the right is the one where the prisoners emerged.

Photo taken by Serrana of the hole in her living room floor.

These political prisoners or left –wing revolutionaries, called themselves the Tupamaros National Liberation Movement. They escaped through a tunnel that led underground from the prison to a nearby house owned by Serrana Auliso that she still occupies today.

Included in that group of prisoners was Jose Mujica, who became the president of Uruguay from 2010 to 2015 . The operation was known as “the Escape” or “The Abuse”, and is one of the biggest ever prison escapes.

Attention was diverted away from the prison escape when Tupamaros organized riots in the same area of the prison, distracting the attention of police. Most of those who had escaped were recaptured and put back in jail during the 12 years of military rule. Mujica himself spent a total of 13 years in prison, mostly during the military dictatorship of Uruguay from 1973 to 1985.

Serrana talking to our tour group

I found this story fascinating, but even more interesting was meeting Serrana Auliso, a gracious and charming individual, who is close to 90 years of age. Our walking tour leader stopped in front of her house and explained that this was the very place where the tunnel came out. Serrana came out to meet our group and show us photos of the hole in her floor from which 106 prisoners emerged into her living room.

Serrana showing us newspaper clippings

She also had newspaper clippings dating about the 1971 episode. One couldn’t get a better history lesson than one like this, truly an example of “living history.” I was told by the tour leader that Serrana comes out regularly to meet the walking tours, hopefully she enjoys sharing her stories as much as we enjoyed listening to them.

I am always open to culinary experiences and no matter what country you’re visiting it’s always fascinating to explore the local cuisine from the traditional to how it is evolving into more contemporary style eating. And this was certainly the case in Montevideo. I’ve already covered the Mercado del Puerto a huge not-to-be-missed tourist attraction where the “asado” (barbecue) is king. So now I’m going to show you a pictorial of my favourite cafes and restaurants.

Let’s start with my favourite cafes

My cappuccino and crossant at Brasilero

The vintage Cafe Brasilero opened its doors in 1877 in the Old Town of Montevideo. I stopped by one day mid-morning for a cappuccino and a croissant, both were very good. Here, they serve the cappuccino in the traditional way, in a glass see through cup (with handle) and when you get it, you can see the distinct line between the coffee and milk.

Cafe Brasilero

Within this cafe you’ll find old style wooden tables and chairs, framed photos on the walls, and a dark wood counter at the back with a giant mirror above – very atmospheric.

The well known Uruguayan writer Eduardo Galeano frequented this cafe — there is a photo of him at the front of the cafe. He wrote the famous book Open Veins of Latin America published in 1971. In the book he analyses the history of South America, describing the effects of European and US exploitation. It’s a book I look forward to reading.

The waiters were very friendly and very patriotic!

Club Brasileiro

Club Brasileiro is located right next door to the Gaucho and Money Museum on 18 de Julio Avenue, one of the most busy, bustling streets of Montevideo, lined with shops, restaurants and hotels. It is along this street that I observed a good variety of the old style architecture of Montevideo.

Club Brasiliero

To get to Brasileiro on the second floor you have to take a cage elevator, I just knew when I stepped into it that I was going to encounter another atmospheric cafe on the second floor – I wasn’t disappointed.

Montevideo Restaurants

I’ve tried several restaurants for supper and found an interesting mix of styles from Sin Pretensiones (without pretension)which offers Vegan and Vegetarian options, it’s a restaurant that reminded me of the Wild Oat in Ottawa, a restaurant with a laid back atmosphere, very welcoming and featuring an eclectic mix of old style vintage tables and chairs, it’s a restaurant with atmosphere plus. The food is what I would describe as “from scratch” prepared on site as it is ordered with a home-made feel. They offer breakfast, and lunch and early dinners of pizzas, quiche, pastas risotto and fish meat dishes as well. It is located in the Old City, where many of my choices of eateries are found.

Another amazing restaurant not far from my hotel in the Old city was La Petite Cuisine. Unfortunately I didn’t bring my camera with me the evening I ate there, and I wish I had. The service was excellent and attentive, and the risotto that I had as my main course with vegetables was superb. They offered home-made bread as an appetizer with herbed butter and a choice of olive oil. When I passed on dessert (the meal was very substantial), they offered me a small dish of their homemade ice cream.

Bar Tabare

Interior of Bar Tabare

Bar Tabare is what I would call a more traditional restaurant that is found in the Punta Carretas area of Montevideo. This restaurant is located quite a distance from my Hotel Axsur in the Old City and the reason I chose it is because I had just finished a walking tour of the area with http://www.curiosofreetour.com.uy and decided to try a restaurant in the area since I was already there, and it had also been recommended by the friendly waiters at Brasilero (who happened to work at Tabare!).

Bar Tabare

No wonder this restaurant has atmosphere. It was opened in 1919 by Alfredo Gonzalez, and was a typical mix of businesses of that era — a bar, but also a storeroom and meeting place for fishermen. It recreated itself in 1993 as a bar and restaurant and was named one of the top 100 bars in the world. Many artifacts from its past remain as part of the restaurant so it felt like a museum as I wandered around taking many photos before sitting down for dinner.

My dinner at Bar Tabare, grilled salmon and salad

Let’s not forget dessert, flan with Dulce de Leche, very typical for South America

A tour of some Montevideo museums

To take you through a tour of Montevideo museums, I thought it would be a neat idea to show you them through photos with little text. After all museums are a visual experience, and these particular ones were a highlight for me. They come with a short description. I experienced a rainy day in Montevideo and what better way to spend this kind of a day than exploring inside venues and learning more history? All museum were within walking distance of each other.

Me at the Museo de los Andes

Sergio Catalan, centre, helps two survivors who had hiked out from the crash site

The Museo de los Andes tells the story of the 1972 Andean plane crash en route from Montevideo to Santiago, Chile. When it crashed, there were 45 people on board, including the Uruguayan Rugby Team. Sixteen people survived 72 days in the most profoundly extreme conditions of the Andean mountains, many had been severely injured, there was little food, little shelter from the elements and little clothing to protect the survivors from the extreme cold.

Newspaper article showing the rescue of survivors

Creator of the museum, Jorg Thomsen, knew many of the family members of those who had been on the plane. He wanted to keep the story alive not only to honour those who had lost their lives and those who had survived, but to pay tribute to the vitality of the human spirit.

I personally met Mr. Thomsen when I was there, and I could feel his commitment and passion for the project.

Letter thrown to Sergio Catalan by survivor of plane crash after 71 days

For someone who was new to the creation of a museum, he has created a most profound experience for anyone who visits it, with its artifacts from the crash site, videos, timeline posters and moving letters. Visitors are compelled to look at their own lives and reflect on what is important in life. I think I got more wordy on this museum than I intended, but it shows the impact that this museum had on me.

A display at the Gaucho Museum showing the hospitality of the gaucho

Typical tack and saddle used by the gaucho

Museo del Gaucho is a small museum dedicated to the gaucho, the equivalent of our Western Canadian cowboy. Gauchos worked on the huge expanses of ranches, herding cattle, training horses and living very frugally, and probably drinking lots of Mate. Unfortunately there was no translation into English regarding the displays, but the sense one got from the museum, and one which I had read about was concerning the temperament of the gaucho, who lived close to the land and who could always be counted on by others.

Very interesting artifacts of tack for the horses, clothing and gourds for mate. The museum is housed in the Palacio Heber constructed at the end of the 19th century in the French and Italian style; it is in itself worth seeing.

Palacio Heber houses both the gaucho and money museums

I wonder if I could print some Uruguayan money with my face on it??

The Money Museum has artefacts from the National Bank of Uruguay.

A room in the Taranco Palace, the Museum of Decorative Arts

The Museum of Decorative Arts was in fact the private residence of the Ortiz de Taranco family and is called the Taranco Palace, (construction of the building began in 1908). This private residence was purchased by the state on condition that all the works of art, paintings, sculptures and ornaments would be donated to create a collection of decorative arts. This museum is the result.

Central building is the Palacio Salvo Building

The Palacio Salvo building was finished in 1928 and designed by architect Mario Palanti and stands 100 metres high. It was originally meant to be a hotel but that didn’t work out so it was converted into business offices and apartments. Apparently there are a few apartments in the building that can be rented to tourists related to AirBnB.

Independence Plaza from the top of Palacio Salvo

I took a tour of the building and went to the very top where there were great views of Montevideo. On the way back down we stopped at a floor where our guide told us about a resident ghost.

A bit of history of the Tango

Inside the Museum of Tango in Montevideo

Tango is the most well known South American dance. It’s a dance full of passion, rhythmic movement and sensuality, a dance that also involves much skill. It is said here in Uruguay that the Tango began in both in Uruguay and Argentina at the same time, starting in the working class neighbourhoods near the ports, amongst European immigrants, many of whom were of Italian and Spanish origin, in about the mid to late 1800s. Another early influence on the Tango were the candombe rhythms of Africa and the musical beats of milonga.

Photo from tango museum showing only men at the dance hall

In the early days of the Tango, men danced with men, in bars and dance halls, places where it wasn’t considered “respectful” for women to be attendance. Men practised how to dance with other men so when the opportunity arose, he might impress a sweetheart with his dancing skills and possibly win her heart.

La Cumparsita

The tango was at first held with much disdain amongst the upper echelons of society and considered to be a dance associated with the “seedy” areas of the city near the brothels. But that changed. The Tango eventually gained popularity with them and spread to Paris, London and New York by 1913 and worldwide in the 1920s and 30s. A very famous classic Tango piece “La Cumparsita” was written by an Uruguayan, Matos Rodriguez in 1916. The Tango Museum of Montevideo offers the inside scoop on how the Tango evolved in the dock areas, bars and dance halls of Montevideo. The museum is located in the ground floor of the Salvo Palace, just off Independence Plaza.

The El Milongon Cabaret Experience

The Tango at El Milongon

Candombe at El Milongon

I attended the El Milongon Cabaret show. It was a great show that brought together many of the dance forms of Uruguay from the African candombe, which began 200 years ago when black slaves were brought to Uruguay from Africa. The candombe rhythm is created with three types of drums with different pitches: piano, chico and repique. It is considered the most representative expression of the Afro-Uruguayan culture.

Included in the show were the folkloric dances of the gaucho.

Dancing on the Streets of Montevideo

If you’re lucky you’ll run into candombe being performed on the streets of Montevideo. This group was performing their music and dance near the Mercado del Puerto. You know you’re near this market when you see the haze of smoke arising from the numerous “asados”—the grilling of steaks, sausages and chicken. Around the exterior of this market are booths of artisan products.

Museo del Carnaval

Carnival costume from Carnival Museum

Close to the Mercado del Puerto is the Museo del Carnaval. Here, you get a real sense of the colour, vibrancy and music of the Montevideo Carnival, a carnival that runs every year, starts in January and runs into February and lasts about 40 days. After experiencing only in small part the dance and music of Montevideo over my week’s stay I can imagine the carnival to be a mind blowing and exceptional experience!