So syrah and shiraz are genetically the same grape - but the wines they produce can be very different in style, depending on origin. The typical old-world syrah is lighter and leaner than the intense shiraz wines of the new world, which tend to be richer, riper and more full-bodied. In certain areas, the name you get on the bottle - syrah or shiraz - will be an indication of style rather than where it is from.

Whatever you call it, some estimates put this as the world's fifth most planted red wine grape. Certain winegrowers in the northern Rhône distinguish between a small-berried, superior version of syrah, which they call petite syrah, and the larger-berried grosse syrah, but others reject any such distinction.

Petite sirah (with an i, not a y) is quite different, the name given to what has been shown to be a common California field blend made up variously of syrah, durif and two other varieties related to them. It makes robust, tannic, earthy wines.

France

Syrah is the great grape of the northern Rhône, responsible for the dense, burly, deep-coloured, long-lived, savoury and peppery wines of Hermitage, and the slightly more seductively perfumed (traditionally thanks to some co-fermented viognier in the blend) Côte-Rôtie. Unlike other varieties, it demonstrates a strict relationship between how severely it is pruned and how good the eventual wine is. It can also lose its aroma and acidity quickly if left past optimal ripening stage (both of which explain why so many, though by no means all, French varietal syrah vins de pays are so wishy-washy). Crozes-Hermitage is probably the best-value manifestation of syrah, although good St Joseph exists and Cornas is enjoying a revival.

Australia

Cuttings of syrah, called shiraz, were probably taken to Australia by the so-called father of Australian viticulture, James Busby, in the early 1830s. It flourished and spread, so much so that it was little treasured. Now, however, Australia has regained its pride in what is the country's most planted wine grape variety, which can taste of baked pencils in the Hunter Valley, cough syrup in the Barossa Valley (arguably its spiritual home), chocolate in McLaren Vale and black pepper in cooler parts of Victoria and New South Wales.

The great majority of Australian winemakers produce a shiraz of some sort, and many make several qualities of shiraz, as well as a range of shiraz-cabernet blends. Penfolds is arguably the past master of shiraz production - its Grange being Australia's first serious collectable. When it was made, by the late Max Schubert after a trip to Bordeaux, it was dismissed as "dry port tasting of crushed ants". In general terms, shiraz tends to taste slightly sweet and can reach high alcohol levels. Such was the success of Australian shiraz in the early years of this century that the name shiraz has been widely adopted for syrah grown in many other parts of the world.

Elsewhere

Syrah was enthusiastically planted in California in the 1990s by the so-called Rhône Rangers, who were anxious to demonstrate that it may be even better suited to California than cabernet sauvignon. Wine buyers have been less enthusiastic about it, however. There have been some notable examples in Washington state as well as in South America, particularly Chile. South African shiraz, generally from younger vines, can taste rather earthy and hot. Some of those who make the finest South African examples label them syrah. There are some notable syrahs in both Italy and Iberia, even if the grape remains a minority ingredient in the varietal makeup of vineyards there. It can also make some fine wine in sunnier spots in Switzerland's Valais.

Victoria Moore recommends

One to drink now

Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardeche Syrah 2006, France£5.50, Nicolas

Some of the world's best syrah is grown in the northern Rhône, where it makes dark, brooding - and expensive - wines. By contrast, this humble vin de pays is about as light a version of a syrah as you will find, but it still carries the grape's violet and mulberry perfume. A rare find from the usually expensive Nicolas. A good weekday buy.

With a jolt of cracked black pepper and a soul-warming stream of fruit, reigned in and run through with French oak, this is a super wine that should appeal also to openminded old world fans. It's bottled under screwcap, though, and needs stirring up when you open it - pour from jug to jug for a bit to bring it to life. Victoria Moore

Drink with

Chargrilled aged rib of beef rubbed with sea salt and finished with a decent slug of peppery olive oil needs wine with both muscle and structure to match. This is gutsy red territory, and shiraz or syrah, with its weight, texture and ripeness of fruit, is a great option. As with other full-bodied red/meat matches, dark fruit will naturally knit with the sweetness of the meat, while firm, drying tannins work to break down protein, cut through fat and clean your palate. Matt Skinner

Background

Say it right Si-rar/she-raz

Makes spicy and full-bodied wines, with high tannins that help it age for years