just reloaded some 180 gr hollow point with various charges for the 40 and did some 125 gr ballistic tip playing around with target FPS between 2600 - 3200 and some light 110 gr hollow point for CoyotesAnyways I'm new to this how do the crimps look? Seem ok to try and shoot? most are charged with suggested starting loads, the I had a couple med charged and 3 set up a couple grains shy of max charge. not sure if I want to try those out yet.I can wait to try themAlso I did some 180 Gr hollow point for my 40 S&W all at starting loads. Here are some pics of my little setup

You're talking about crimping, but showing a bunch of rifle rounds and not pistol (.40). So, I'm guessing they are going into a semi-auto, as that would be the only reason to crimp a rifle cartridge. If that is the case, you are using bullets without canalures and not actually crimping them at all. The only way to "crimp" it would be to use a canalure machine or but a Lee Factory Crimp Die for those bullets. If you are not using a semi-auto, then there is no reason to do anything but seat the bullet (if the sizing die is set correctly) as they are only held by pressure.Not trying to nit-pick or anything, just trying to clarify and inform. They sure look real pretty though. Hope they shoot just as well as they look. I noticed you're using the Lee Perfect Powder Measurer. I'm kind of curious what powder you used for the pistol and if you had any problems with it. The one I had (years ago) would run rifle powder through it just fine, but fine pistol powders tended to seep out through both sides of the charge cylinder. Just curious if it was just mine or not.Almost forgot the million dollar question. How did you like it? If you did like it already, wait until you find a load that works!

Bisley, Thanks and I definitely don't not see any of that as nit picking. I am very new to this and just followed the instructions from the lee dies about setting a crimp (adjusting the bullet seating die in 1/3 of a turn to set a crimp. I also have the factory crimp but did not use it. I was in fact asking about the crimp for the 308 it is a bolt rifle and after reading what you wrote I feel better about my work. As far as the pistol powder I am using "universal" for the rifle I am using IMR 4320. So far I like the Lee setup I have but I will be upgrading to a digital scale. Other than that, I can wait to try my rounds out!! I'll post up how it went. Thanks againJason

Congrats on your first loads. I use RCBS and Redding gear so don't know the Lee stuff. But Bis is right. There's no need to crimp rifle loads. Just seat the bullet with your seating die to the correct cartridge overall length and you're good to go.

aint it fun?!looks like you are doing just fine... didn't see a crimp on those rifle cartridges, but you can put a taper crimp on them with a Lee FCD... straight walled cartridges like the .40 SW need a roll crimp and you can use a Lee FCD for that as wellif you want to see if your .40 roll crimp is adequate you can load your mag and then cycle all of the bullets without firing to see 1) if they feed properly, and 2) to see if there is any setback (the bullet moving during cycling, you can measure before and after to see if the bullet has moved)if you decide you are going to reload for the long haul then invest $100 in a chrony, this will tell you how your loads compare to the load books and give you an idea if you are over pressuring if you load at or near max

straight walled cartridges like the .40 SW need a roll crimp and you can use a Lee FCD for that as well

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! Straight walled RIMMED cartridges can use either a roll crimp OR a taper crimp. But rimless cartridges such as the .40, .45, and 9mm require a taper crimp since they headspace on the mouth of the cartridge. Using a roll crimp is asking for headspace issues and big time problems in the .40. The literature that comes with your dies should explain all this to you. Another good reason to read the instructions before starting, especially when doing something dangerous like reloading.

I went with the wife and tested some of this. It sure does a number on watermelon and oranges!!!I need to call the wife "Crack Shot" This is Yer vaporizing an orange with the ballistic tip 49gr charge.Zoomed inMy only problem was the 110 gr hollow points, I think I flaired them too much ? or did something wrong, but they would not cycle, good if at all. the ballistic tips cycled like butter.My self I had not trouble hitting oranges at what I think was about 120 yrds? From reading people post on here I know that is nothing, but for me I feel that's a good start, and I ran out of room to put out anything further so I have no idea how far I can hit something. My 40 S&W rounds went great

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! Straight walled RIMMED cartridges can use either a roll crimp OR a taper crimp. But rimless cartridges such as the .40, .45, and 9mm require a taper crimp since they headspace on the mouth of the cartridge. Using a roll crimp is asking for headspace issues and big time problems in the .40. The literature that comes with your dies should explain all this to you. Another good reason to read the instructions before starting, especially when doing something dangerous like reloading.

the .40 sw does headspace off the rim as you say, but to me the .40 crimp is still a LIGHT roll crimp... it is a much different crimp than a taper crimp as you would see with bottle neck cases... either way, if you use the Lee FCD you will not have any problems IMO... crimping just enough to take any "bell" off the mouth after seating the bullet so they will load easily but firm enough to eliminate setback

Are the cartridges chambering but giving stiff bolt close or are they hanging up before they get to the chamber? I've reloaded for a couple savage rifles that didn't like hollowpoint bullets. The mouths of the hollowpoints would hang up on the chamber mouth. Pointed bullets all cycled smoothly.

the .40 sw does headspace off the rim as you say, but to me the .40 crimp is still a LIGHT roll crimp... it is a much different crimp than a taper crimp as you would see with bottle neck cases...

A .40 S&W is not a roll crimp, not even a light one. YOU CAN NOT ROLL CRIMP ANYTHING WITHOUT A CANALURE. There is no way to "roll" a case mouth into a flat sided bullet, period. You also can not compare the Lee Factory Crimp Die crimp to a taper or roll crimp. It's an apple to oranges thing. You really do need to either learn some terminology, or some facts, before you get someone VERY SERIOUSLY hurt. When you say "but to me the .40 crimp is still a LIGHT roll crimp", that is a speculation, not a fact, and will get people hurt. Especially when it comes to reloading, words like "to me" or "I think" can be very painful. Gotta be a little more careful.

I've reloaded for a couple savage rifles that didn't like hollowpoint bullets. The mouths of the hollowpoints would hang up on the chamber mouth. Pointed bullets all cycled smoothly.

I've had hollow points hang up on Ruger & Remington also. So not just a Savage thing. While I still own & have shot LOTS of hollow points, I really try to avoid them. Spitzer or ballistic type bullets are a much better choice over all, being more reliable on feeding, expansion & trajectory. Frank

I don't know what (or if) you plan on hunting with the 110gr bullets, but we had really good luck with the Hornady V-max 110 gr bullets. Of course pop's old 700 Remmy will shoot just about anything well We also have had super luck with that bullet in the .30-30. So if you try them and don't have too good of luck, try drooping them down to .30-30 velocities and see if that helps at all.Glad to hear the .40's shot well. Did they feed feed and cycle OK? Have you also considered 155gr bullets in the .40? They are whole lot quicker and a lot easier on the gun and the wrists. I shot 180's for the longest when I first got my .40. But over the years, I have learned that the lighter recoil of the 155's makes for a much funner day if shooting it a bunch.So, now that you've tried it and had success, aren't you glad you started doing it? Everyone can always use one more expensive, addicting habit if you ask me. Keep up the good work.

I hear you loud and clear on that one Frank. Isn't it amazing how much wisdom comes with age I'm so glad I learned a long time ago that Wooly Mammoths are extinct and there's no Grizzly in So. Cal, so specials are plenty good in my .44. Pistols too are a lot less forgiving on the ole body at the end of the day. Damn I miss being 21

A .40 S&W is not a roll crimp, not even a light one. YOU CAN NOT ROLL CRIMP ANYTHING WITHOUT A CANALURE. There is no way to "roll" a case mouth into a flat sided bullet, period. You also can not compare the Lee Factory Crimp Die crimp to a taper or roll crimp. It's an apple to oranges thing. You really do need to either learn some terminology, or some facts, before you get someone VERY SERIOUSLY hurt. When you say "but to me the .40 crimp is still a LIGHT roll crimp", that is a speculation, not a fact, and will get people hurt. Especially when it comes to reloading, words like "to me" or "I think" can be very painful. Gotta be a little more careful.

Of course you can roll the mouth of the case into a bullet without a cannelure... this happens quite frequenlty with revolver bullets depending upon what type of bullet you are using, so this statement of yours isn't quite true. But back to the 40, to me I think it looks like a light roll crimp when using the Lee 40 sw FCD, and the fact is when you hold it side by side to a Lee FCD for a rifle bottle neck case the taper on this crimp in comparison is completely different than the 40 and what is called a taper crimp, and that terminology makes sense as far as I am concerned... and what I know is that I shot 150+ of these lightly roll crimpled handloads this weekend flawlessly!