In a tale about his last supper at El Bulli (LSAEB) that will appear in next week’s issue of New York, Adam Platt acknowledges that many an “I Ate at El Bulli” piece (IAAEBP) has been penned before him, but somehow Platty’s write-up of “the mother of all boondoggles” seems to beat them all — maybe because it involves a helicopter, Heather Graham, and lines like this: “As the waiter hoisted the orb to the table, the assembled gastronomes pawed and peered at it, looking, it later occurred to me, like those apes in the famous Kubrick movie when the humming obelisk appears in their midst from outer space.” So what did our jaded critic make of Adrià’s “elaborate, even exhausting, magic show”? Read on to find out.