Assembling a bicycle is quite easy really. There aren't that many parts - just the frame, wheels, handlebars seatpost and saddle. Then there are the brakes, stem, cranks...hmmmm, actually there are a lot of parts - all of these in fact.

Baalzamon wrote:I suggest you change the skewers to security skewers to save your wheels from being stolen easily...

Quick-release skewers are my considered choice. Security skewers are inconvenient, and in my view unnecessary.

My simple policy for avoiding theft is to never leave the bike or gear unattended unless its security is certain. I won't be allowing thieves any opportunity to steal either the bike or individual components.

I hear what you're saying RonK. My choice was for the pitlocks, just for those times when I do leave the bike locked but maybe not able to do both wheels, or when I use the wheel lock only for a short stop.

Peter White Cycles wrote:You can remove your front wheel, place it alongside your rear wheel and then lock your bike to some lamp post with a big heavy "D" lock. But that limits you to only certain locations to lock your bike, locations with a suitable pole and free space surrounding it. And it means having to remove that front wheel, which may have an expensive dynohub with wiring attached, fender with a mudflap attached that can get mangled while resting on the ground, and it means your "D" lock needs to be large and heavy. With Pitlock, you can use a much smaller lock to just lock your frame or a wheel to something immobile, giving you many more options for locking your whole bike.

The need for a quick release? In 8 months I've removed the rear wheel once and the front not at all. Racing QRs on a touring bike with excellent puncture-protected tyres are a bit pointless. Just my 2c

Do you mean the $$$'s? I haven't added it all up, and don't know if I really want to. But by my original calculations it would be almost $2000 less than the cost of importing a complete bike from Van Nicholas.

il padrone wrote:I hear what you're saying RonK. My choice was for the pitlocks, just for those times when I do leave the bike locked but maybe not able to do both wheels, or when I use the wheel lock only for a short stop.

The need for a quick release? In 8 months I've removed the rear wheel once and the front not at all. Racing QRs on a touring bike with excellent puncture-protected tyres are a bit pointless. Just my 2c

The way I see it, a thief is more likely to steal the complete bike than to remove the panniers so he can access the skewers. Using pitlocks presupposes the thief recognises the hubs to be of high value, which I doubt.

I don't carry a heavy D-lock around either, just a light cable lock to deter the opportunist thief. As I've said previously, if you don't want to loose it, don't let it out of your sight.

I'd be far more paranoic about loosing a pitlock key in some remote location.

RonK wrote:The way I see it, a thief is more likely to steal the complete bike than to remove the panniers so he can access the skewers. Using pitlocks presupposes the thief recognises the hubs to be of high value, which I doubt.

That is correct. But using the pitlock, your entire bike can be securely locked with simply one cable/D-lock from the front wheel around a post. There are just more locking options made possible.

RonK wrote:I'd be far more paranoic about loosing a pitlock key in some remote location.

Nah, not going to happen. Pitlock key is always attached to my regular key set (car, house, bike lock etc). When I do really remote trips a spare will be carried in my tool kit as well.

Hi Ron, So your current steed is the Sabbath Silk Route?What was the determining factors in your choice of pedals - Shimano PD-M785 SPD Deore XT Trail? I remember you saying your wife was a fan of the speedplays.I'm currently considering some NorthWave Mission shoes and trying to make up my mind onpedals for my APB.I've not used spd's before - hence my interest

il padrone wrote:I hear what you're saying RonK. My choice was for the pitlocks, just for those times when I do leave the bike locked but maybe not able to do both wheels, or when I use the wheel lock only for a short stop.

The need for a quick release? In 8 months I've removed the rear wheel once and the front not at all. Racing QRs on a touring bike with excellent puncture-protected tyres are a bit pointless. Just my 2c

The way I see it, a thief is more likely to steal the complete bike than to remove the panniers so he can access the skewers. Using pitlocks presupposes the thief recognises the hubs to be of high value, which I doubt.

I don't carry a heavy D-lock around either, just a light cable lock to deter the opportunist thief. As I've said previously, if you don't want to loose it, don't let it out of your sight.

I'd be far more paranoic about loosing a pitlock key in some remote location.

I was in Northam, went to a chemist and secured my bike with my abus wheel lock. Came back out and found my rear brake lever had been tampered with. Cable had been pulled out of the brake lever. Bike was fully loaded at this point.

RonK wrote:The way I see it, a thief is more likely to steal the complete bike than to remove the panniers so he can access the skewers. Using pitlocks presupposes the thief recognises the hubs to be of high value, which I doubt.

That is correct. But using the pitlock, your entire bike can be securely locked with simply one cable/D-lock from the front wheel around a post. There are just more locking options made possible.

Just the wheels. I know you can put them on all sorts of other parts but I don't see random component removal as a big risk, more the opportunistic joyrider, or, in the longer term, the whole-bike professional thief.

I am considering getting the stem-cap pitlock to fully secure the front end.

rifraf wrote:Hi Ron, So your current steed is the Sabbath Silk Route?What was the determining factors in your choice of pedals - Shimano PD-M785 SPD Deore XT Trail? I remember you saying your wife was a fan of the speedplays.I'm currently considering some NorthWave Mission shoes and trying to make up my mind onpedals for my APB.I've not used spd's before - hence my interest

Yes, but the fate of the Sabbath is yet to be determined. Currently my wife is away for a month trekking in Nepal and normally I'd be on a tour somewhere, but due to a job change I don't have any leave available. So I'm taking the opportunity to assemble the Pioneer. If it works out as good an allrounder as I hope, the Sabbath will be sold. Unless I can convince my wife to join me on a tour, but she's a bike snob and doesn't want to know about anything without the Colnago brand on it. I assembled the Schwalbe Marathon Duremes onto the wheels today, and decided to order a narrower pair of Supremes for highway riding. That's as far as the assembly proceeded this weekend, as I had forgotten to order a crown race installer. So a priority order went in to Wiggle for an installer and a set of Supremes.

In choosing a pedal, the SPD cleat system is at the top of the list for me, as it is compatible with shoes that I can actually walk in and hike in. I take only one pair of shoes and a pair of rubber thongs (to wear in showers) when I'm on tour. I'm using Northwave Expedition GTX shoes which I find very comfortable on my flat feet. However I don't think they are available anymore and I'm not sure if there is a replacement. The Missions do look very similar and have a similar specification but the Drifter GTX is probably the closest. Both are discreet enough to wear anywhere.

Other attributes I'm looking for in a pedal are:- a platform to distribute the load over a wider area and so reduce hotspots, and also so I can pedal if I miss the cleat starting off on steep inclines- double-sided, i.e. cleats on both sides.

I think Shimano has only recently released the trail versions of their MTD pedals. They are available across the range on XTR, XT and Deore, and are the first double-sided pedals I've found which have a compact platform that doesn't look out of proportion on my bike.

Unusually, most of the international online stores were yet to receive stocks when I was ready to order, but eventually I located them at Mortdale Bike Shed. Not only did they have stocks but also competitive pricing. The Deore version is particularly good value at $40.

BTW, as a matter of interest, I discovered this bike stand at an incredibly cheap price of $99.99. Thought it was probably rubbish until I read the reviews. My order is in.

Last edited by RonK on Sun Oct 23, 2011 11:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.

il padrone wrote:Just the wheels. I know you can put them on all sorts of other parts but I don't see random component removal as a big risk, more the opportunistic joyrider, or, in the longer term, the whole-bike professional thief.

I am considering getting the stem-cap pitlock to fully secure the front end.

Aushiker wrote:And it would seem the Swing is to be no longer. Tubus have stopped product apparently but I have managed to get one that they still had in inventory.

Not a great surprise. Many people cannot be readily convinced of the handling benefits of mounting the load above the suspension, and the Swing has been rendered obsolete by the development of suspension crowns that are much wider than its clamps.

Do you know if they have any plans for a new/replacement design?

Personally, I'm happy to ride a rigid bike for all of my touring, even in fairly rough country.

Hi RonI think it would be a great idea if you kept this thread going and as you add something to the frame pop up a pic or three and give us a blow by blow account of the build.Be interesting to watch and read of the logic of your choices.

rifraf wrote:Hi Ron, I'm currently considering some NorthWave Mission shoes and trying to make up my mind onpedals for my APB.I've not used spd's before - hence my interest

In choosing a pedal, the SPD cleat system is at the top of the list for me, as it is compatible with shoes that I can actually walk in and hike in.

I tried clips, and didn;t like them. I prefer just flat pedals and using normal all terrain type shoes. If you want the extra grip and pull of being locked in, wouldn't old style cages be just as convenient for touring, as they don't require special shoes?

rifraf wrote:Hi Ron, I'm currently considering some NorthWave Mission shoes and trying to make up my mind onpedals for my APB.I've not used spd's before - hence my interest

In choosing a pedal, the SPD cleat system is at the top of the list for me, as it is compatible with shoes that I can actually walk in and hike in.

I tried clips, and didn;t like them. I prefer just flat pedals and using normal all terrain type shoes. If you want the extra grip and pull of being locked in, wouldn't old style cages be just as convenient for touring, as they don't require special shoes?

After using these for many a year:I've decided to see how the other half lives.I've followed Ronk's advice and ordered some Shimano PD-M785 SPD Deore XT Trail andgortex membrane with a vibram sole Northwave Drifter GTX MTB Shoes.I initially looked for some Cannondale shoes but to no avail via bikeexchange.com

I didn't make much progress with the build last weekend - I'd forgotten to buy a crown race installer. But Wiggle came to the rescue and had one to me in 4 days. Interestingly, the bargain-priced work stand I ordered from Torpedo 7 the day before still hasn't arrived. It would have been handy this weekend. Torpedo 7 today sent an customer satisfaction email asking for my feedback about the purchasing experience, and whilst I'm not (yet) particularly put out by the non-arrival of the stand, I will be making the comparison with the service provided by a merchant on the other side of the world.

First task is to install the headset cups. Notice the reflections of the lovely view from my 16th floor balcony. That is Mt Coot-Tha you see in the background.

Then install the crown race, and using the cutting guide, cut the steerer to size.

Titanium is chosen for its strength and light weight. The rationale is I'm here for a good time - not a long time. Another 10 years will see out my cycle touring career, and I want it to be as pleasant as possible. I've heard all the arguments, but have enough personal experience at bushwalking and high-altitude trekking to understand that I have no need or desire for an indestructible battle tank.

Last edited by RonK on Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:35 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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