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specialized cranks usually will slide or wiggle in without much fuss, but if it's tight, put it in the freezer. in the end, a plastic faced mallet is no problem either. the bolt will pull it together too.to take it off, loosen the bolt and wiggle one arm out, then the other.for the shifter/derailleur, personally i'd use a non-shadow type rear derailleur, as it tracks the cogs closer, shifting is better in a road application. if you stick with the derailleur you have, inline barrel adjusters are everywhere. Jagwire makes a bunch, their most recent one holds 4mm housing without end caps and is especially small and functional. Shimano makes one similar, which is even better as it is unlikely to accidentally wind down. there is also a plug-in type by Jagwire that goes into a housing stop, as long as there is clearance for the barrel itself.

thisisatest wrote:specialized cranks usually will slide or wiggle in without much fuss, but if it's tight, put it in the freezer. in the end, a plastic faced mallet is no problem either. the bolt will pull it together too.to take it off, loosen the bolt and wiggle one arm out, then the other.for the shifter/derailleur, personally i'd use a non-shadow type rear derailleur, as it tracks the cogs closer, shifting is better in a road application. if you stick with the derailleur you have, inline barrel adjusters are everywhere. Jagwire makes a bunch, their most recent one holds 4mm housing without end caps and is especially small and functional. Shimano makes one similar, which is even better as it is unlikely to accidentally wind down. there is also a plug-in type by Jagwire that goes into a housing stop, as long as there is clearance for the barrel itself.

alorast wrote:Put the crank arms in a freezer for a bit that way you wont have to hammer on them as much (the spindle should shrink a little).

The spindles for our Hollowgram SRM's were way to tight such that even after and hour in the freezer, tapping them in still displaced the bearing from the other side. My solution was a trial and error process in which I used a cordless drill to spin the spindle like a lathe and using fine grade Emory cloth, I sprayed water and wet polished the spindle to reduce the diameter a few microns until the spindle could be inserted sans rubber mallet.

alorast wrote:Put the crank arms in a freezer for a bit that way you wont have to hammer on them as much (the spindle should shrink a little).

The spindles for our Hollowgram SRM's were way to tight such that even after and hour in the freezer, tapping them in still displaced the bearing from the other side. My solution was a trial and error process in which I used a cordless drill to spin the spindle like a lathe and using fine grade Emory cloth, I sprayed water and wet polished the spindle to reduce the diameter a few microns until the spindle could be inserted sans rubber mallet.

Can of compressed air upside down so that it gets cold fast will freeze the spindle in seconds. This way you can forgo the cloth and it will go on with the mallet just fine.