Discussion Comments

I suggest that we could use the phenomenom of the cell's overexpansion of water as a method of measuring acclamation of the engine.. IE, if you advance too far the cell will overexpand the water and empty itself.. A few degrees back toward normal and its fine.. As the engine acclimates this threshold should migrate toward advance until you can run on cell energy alone...

Images

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Test Results

Cell is run at 90 volts with no electrolyte and a square wave pulse "dc motor speed controller, with a heavy duty mofset" for a few hours until brown scum stops..

Cell can then be run for hours on 12v with sodium hydroxide added to bring the current up to 1 or 2 amps, no brown scum forms.. I use a stick on aquarium thermometer and stop charging if the temp goes off the scale 60-90 %f,, this helps me to keep from overheating the whole mess.

I found if you use only stainless steel, nitril rubber, and glass in your cell the brown scumm will stop,, any other compounds especially petrolium based will generate alot of colloid.

In my truck for two weeks now, timming moved from 8 to 12 degrees and the truck comes alive..

I can get the truck to idle at 46 degrees but stalls if fuel pump is switched off.

also at any more than 19 degrees and the cell sucks itself dry..

I wouldnt call this a sucess as far as running on "cell energy" alone is concerned, but I would call the huge power increase a sucess..

I have found a stainless top for the cell as the glass top, "now cracked" needs replaced. perhaps with the correct metal top I will have more sucess..

All my cells are made from 304 ss muffler pipe from http://stores.ebay.com/Verocious-Motorsports_Tubing_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQftidZ2QQtZkm The smaller tubes I beleive are meant for bearing races and are 316 ss .5" and 1", but all the rest are 304 ss 1.5" 2" and 2.5"

I cut small peices of nitril rubber sheet 1/4" to use as spacers "worked great".

The cells hold charge, act as expected, quickly seem to go stage 3 but no go on the running without gasoline..