Renzo Rosso, the Italian fashion magnate behind Diesel, Martin Margiela, and Dsquared, was the first to push backstage to tell Sophia Kokosalaki how many important editors were at her show, and how they're rooting for her. That must've been good for him to witness, because he's recently signed Kokosalaki to a business pact under which her clothes will be manufactured in his high-standard Staff International factory near Venice, thus liberating her from years of struggling to sort out production from her East London base.

Good news all round, then, and some of it is already apparent in her clothes. Kokosalaki's knack is in the balance between Greco-modern draped, pleated dresses and something cool but under-the-radar rocking in the outerwear. A giant black curly-haired lamb coat with goat-hair sprouting at the shoulder and a textured trench (silk, but made to look synthetic in the mood du jour) did the rocking, while the designer's newest dresses came in multipleated stretch panne velvet. With a business push behind her, Kokosalaki is carefully upping the luxury content of her collection while gradually figuring out how to extend her signatures to make a tight, special brand. It's not only press and buyers who are watching. One more immediate vote of approval came from Carmen Kass, who wore the best number here—an artfully twisted black satin dress. She was seen leaving the show with it tucked under her arm, singing Kokosalaki's praises.