Description

Left side of the south face of the "Penguin." Climb Third String and then move left to the bolts (or walk in from the west; which is pretty easy). The first few bolts move through less than perfect, yet pretty clean rock. Then through, a more technical than you think, slab section. A great rest below a bulge, leads to a fantastic headwall! Perfect crimps and a few jugs on this will leave you loving life.

Location

Easy lower off the route back to belay. Then to get off either rap off the chain of Third String or walk off to the west.

This is a really fun route. This is my second favorite route on the formation, after the 5.9. It's more sustained and pumpy (and harder) than the 5.10c to the right. The crux is just endurance climbing after you turn the roof.

Also, Crisco for some reason failed to mention that you can just lower off of the anchors of this route; you don't have to rap any other route or walk off (though I suppose you can if you want). That's what we both did and it would be the best way.