This pattern does not use gauge and there is no specific type of yarn to use. It can be used with whatever materials you wish. There are specific steps of measuring along the way which will take the place of needing to know gauge or make a gauge swatch. This pattern will work for any size or shape dog. I have made sweaters for many

dogs with this method- from a

teacup Chihuahua with a 9inch Yarn- whatever yarn you like to use chest to a Basset Hound with a 32inch chest. Be sure to read Hook- whatever hook you find comfortable to through the pattern especially all use with that yarn the notes before beginning. Scissors, Stitch Markers, 4 Clothespins, Tape Measure, Tapestry Needle

Easy stripes: Unless you hate weaving in ends, this sweater is very simple to do in stripes. 1, 2, 3 rows of the same before changing colors works well. You will need to join each round if you are doing stripes, of course, instead of working in the round, and then join the new color and ch2 at the beginning of each color change. Doing stripes also allows you to use up scraps, which is always a fabulous thing! Check out embellishment ideas on the website for other creative hints. Measurement Abbreviations: TIP: How much yarn? N = Neck Circumference in inches

F= Fore-chest length in inches In my experience, it takes less than one 7oz. skein C = Chest circumference in inches of worsted weight yarn to make a plain sweater B = Back length in inches for a dog up to about 15lbs. A finer yarn, such as SS, will take a little bit more.

READING THIS TUTORIAL Throughout this tutorial, the actual pattern is going to be on your left. Any notes or picture guides will be to the right. Anytime you see a note indicator (#) be sure to read the tip (in green) to the right. For future sweaters, you will be able to skip the hints and tips, so the pattern will be there to one side for your convenience.

MY PROJECT- for illustration purposes: I am making a sweater for my Rat Terrier, Pagan. She is on the small side- 12 lbs. Her measurements are Neck: 11", Fore-chest- 4", Chest- 17", Back- 13". These are the measurements I will be working with. I am using about 8oz of Caron SSEco with an H hook.

INSTRUCTIONS

Starting with the collar- #I use 5 as a minimum. You can make a tall

collar- like a mock turtleneck- or even taller- like a Ch 5#+1 real turtleneck which looks very nicely turned, but

5 is the minimum to get a neat, ribbed effect. +1 Row 1- sc in 2nd chain from hook and in is the turning chain and does not count as a stitch. each ch across. Ch 1, turn.

#For added strength in the ribbed collar, I generally do a regular sc in the ends and BLO in the middle stitches. This does not stretch quite as much this way, but it also does not stretch out of Row 2- sc in BLO# across. Ch1, turn. shape as easily. Unless your dog has a

considerably larger head than neck, it really doesn't need to stretch too much, but you certainly do not want it to sag in the future.

# An easy way to tell you have an even number of rows (without counting over and over) is to be sure your beginning tail is on the same side of where your yarn and hook are now.

Joining the collar

Fold collar in half, matching end. Sl st in each end stitch across, being sure to match and stitch through both layers. Ch2 and turn collar right side out (With seam on the inside) Do not FO. You will not FO until you are ready to finish the sleeves.

Illustrating beginning to sl st through both layers

#Ch2 counts as hdc throughout. Do not turn unless otherwise noted. You will be working in Beginning the body of the sweater rounds for the next several rows.

R0w 1- (Previous ch2 counts as HDC#) HDC in the end of each row, increasing every eighth stitch. Join at top of ch2, ch2. Do not turn. . Fold piece flat, seam in center of top. On the right and left edges, place a stitch marker. This will tell you where to increase

The first round (with increases) finished and my stitch markers in place Round 2- HDC around, making an increase

at both markers. Do not join. Continue on to rnd 3.

Round 3- HDC around.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3, until the piece measures F from bottom of collar to edge of work.

TIP: You will want to measure every few rows to be sure the sweater is increasing enough or not too much. In WW and Hhook- each row with its 2 increases adds about 1/2 inch circumference. You may need to add more increase rows, or spread them out further, depending on the difference between your dog's neck and chest circumferences.

EXAMPLE: My Pagan has an 11inch neck and a 17inch chest- quite a leap. Her sternum is only four inches- which is only going to get me about 9-10 rows of HDC. I have to make increases on every row. This is, by the way, why store-bought sweaters never fit her. Remember that you are getting an extra inch or more already in the first row.

Illustrating checking the measurements and increases as you go:

Laying the piece flat and measuring from side to side as you go will let you know how much more increasing you have to do. If it measures 8inches across, it is 16inches circumference. (never mind real math here- this is crochet math)

You will want to try to increase at regular

intervals to get the neatest fit, but for the First check: 2.5/F and still need another full inch first try I wouldn't worry too much about it. increase for C Just make a note for future sweaters how many increase rows you need and you can space them out better in the future.

Once you have the piece from bottom of the collar to end of piece measuring F- end your rounds in the center (even with the seam) with a sl st.

Second check: 3.5/F and still need another .5inch increase for C- going well!

Here you will want to pull out a big loop to prevent any unraveling when you go to try it on your model. Slip the sweater over your dog's head and position the center seam at the throat. The bottom edge should be just to the legs with a little wiggle room.

Take your 4 clothespins and clip them on just inside the front legs AND outside the front legs about halfway up the shoulder. The inside edge of the pin (toward the leg) should line up with where you want it- NOT the middle of the pin. (Which I did not do perfectly, and I had to recheck it again!!!) If your dog has had trouble with sweaters being tight in the shoulder, give a little extra room.

Slip the sweater off carefully, being sure not

to dislodge your markers. Replace the Pagan trying on her sweater. That clothespin on clothespins with stitch markers four stitch the far right is totally in the wrong place, but we're markers INSIDE the clothespins. going to fix that!!!

Stitch markers replace clothespins

DOUBLE CHECK! Count the spaces on each side- make sure they are the same! Err on the side of more room if they are not equal and move your markers accordingly. At the same time, be sure they are still centered on either side of the chest. In the future, you will know how many stitches to skip for leg

holes (using the same yarn and hook, of NOTE: Place your markers in the first and last course) and can skip the clothespin step stitch you will skip. For Pagan's sweater, I skipped entirely! 10 stitches for each leg opening, so the marker is

in stitch 1 and 10- and I skip those entirely when proceeding to the next step.

Beginning the leg openings

Row 1- ch2 to count as the HDC. HDC in each space UP TO the marker. Ch'X' (X= the number of stitches skipped from marker to marker). HDC in the next stitch past the marker and around, repeating for the next pair of markers. HDC back to the center and join at the top of the ch2 with a sl st. Ch2

Round 2- (working in rounds again #This is more crochet math! Yay! Basically, the beginning with the end of this row) HDC in total length of the sweater is going to be B, which every HDC and Chain around. is the length of your dog's back. You've already

worked F (the length of the forechest) so subtract Continue to hdc around until piece equals that from B. (For Pagan, this is 13-4=9) Now HALF (B-F)/2 # of the remaining will be worked in rounds. The

remainder will be worked in dec. rows in order to Once your sweater reaches the correct form an open belly at the bottom end of the length, end with a sl st in the center. Do not sweater for free movement. (And boy dogs FO. appreciate this as it won't rub their parts and you'll appreciate it as less weewee accidents and less sweater washing)

Pagan's Sweater before the decrease rounds for the end of the sweater

Beginning the end of the sweater

Row 1- ch 2. HDCtog the next 2 stitches. HDC around until the last 2 stitches. HDCtog last 2 stitches. Ch 2 TURN

Row 2-? - Continue on each row in HDC, HDCtog the first 2 and last 2 stitches each row until sweater reaches B.

The sweater at B length (13 inches) before finished edging or sleeves.

Finished Edging #To prevent gapping along the trim, place one sc

in the seam between HDC and one in the side of Round 1- Ch 1. 2 sc in same stitch. sc in the HDC, not AROUND the HDC. each stitch across, 3sc in next corner.

Working down the sides, sc evenly spaced 2sc per side of each HDC# End with sc in same st as beginning to complete corner. Sl st to close. Ch 1. Do NOT Turn. Round 2- Repeat Round 1, ending with a sl st to close. FO, leaving long tail to weave in.

Sleeve (repeat for both sleeves)

Round 1- Join yarn to arm hole and ch2 to count as 1st hdc. HDC around (In each hdc, the side of both hdcand bottom of chain)- placing 2 HDC in the sides of the HDC on sleeve hole openings. Do not join, do not

turn. Use a stitch marker if needed to mark Finished edging and sleeves added beginning of rounds.

TIP on HDC in bottom of chain when adding the Continue to HDC in rounds until sleeves are sleeves: It is best to stitch through BOTH loops of desired legnth. (I did 4 rows for Pagan's chain that remain in order to make the sleeve sweater) A good length sweater sleeve end stronger. This may seam a little awkward at first, before the elbow. Sl st in next st when but once you get it started, it lines up well for the sleeve is desired length. next stitch. If you prefer, you can HDC BETWEEN

the HDC below the chain, though that is not as Finish- 2 rows of sc as with bottom of neat, but it's going to be in your dog's armpit, isn't sweater. Sl st at end of last row, FO leaving it? The point is to just make it hold strong- a long tail to weave in using needle. whichever way you prefer to do it.

FURTHER TIPS: If you need to join yarn- run out or are doing stripes, etc.- ALWAYS tie your joins and THEN stitch the ends in to hide them. This will prevent future unraveling in a garment that is not likely to be treated gently!

Weaving in ends TIP: Best to leave too much than too little. Weave back and forth a couple of times or in different directions to prevent ends popping out in the future. Most likely this garment will need to be washed often, so you want those ends to stay hidden forever!

Remember, this is a basic sweater- what I may do with it later to embellish it will likely turn it into something entirely different. I encourage you to send in pictures of your sweaters when you have them completed and share your ideas about color, pattern, decorations, etc. Check back later for other people's ideas and more tips I will add on using fancier pattern stitches to make this sweater into countless ideas!!!

Copyright 2009 CritterScoop.com

Please feel free to link to this pattern but do not reproduce it. Items made from this pattern are yours to dispense of as you wish. It’s your work, after all, and I hope you enjoyed making it!

Publication Overview

Crochet Tutorial to make a
sweater to fit any dog
using any yarn and hook