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1. Remove electronics enclosure from its mounting location. 2. Unplug and remove the OEM ignition. 3. Set the programming switches on the T3 to your settings. 4. Install the T3 Ignition in the same location in the electronics enclosure. 5. Test the T3 Ignition. 6. Close the electronics enclosure cover plate and mount the module in the PWC. Installation Remove electronics enclosure from its Mounting Location 1. Using a 10mm socket remove the mounting bolts on each side of the electronics enclosure. 2. Remove the enclosure cover and set aside the screws, 2 mounting flanges, ‘O” ring, and enclosure top. Unplug and Remove the OEM Ignition 1. Using 10mm socket, remove bolts from each side of the OEM ignition. Lift out the ignition and unplug all connectors attached to the OEM ignition. Now remove the protective metal plate that was under the ignition and two 3/16″ thick washers under that plate. 2. On 2004 models and newer remove the wire harness for the two black connectors just unplugged from the OEM ignition. Trace each wire from each black connector back to in-line connectors and separate each of these connectors. Set the two harnesses aside. Install the T3 Ignition in the Electronics Enclosure 1. Install the T3 ignition into the mounting bracket supplied with your T3. Slide the end of the ignition module under the lip at the rear of the bracket an press the wire end of the ignition firmly into the bracket. Attach the keeper bracket using two 5mm bolts supplied. Place the ignition/bracket in the location where the OEM ignition and metal plate were removed. Secure the ignition in place with the supplied bolts

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensers and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensers. The condensers are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7. The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17.

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7 (white-blue wire for Norton Commando). The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. For the Norton Commando, the earth tag on the end of the condensor pack can be used (fit a female spade connector to the end of the red earthing wire). See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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INSPECT ROUTING 1. Remove the upper and lower meter panels (refer to Service Manual page 9D-15). 2. Check if the ignition switch lead wire is clamped and routed correctly. Incorrect positions are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Correct routing and clamping is shown in Figures 3 and 4 on page 5. REROUTING 1. Reroute the ignition switch lead wire correctly (Figure 3 and Figure 4). The ignition switch lead wire should not be covered by the other wire harnesses. 2. Turn the handlebars back and forth to verify that the steering operates smoothly and the wiring harness does not become kinked or pinched. 3. Proceed to PUNCH MARK AT VIN on page 8. from the motorcycle (refer to Service Manual page 1H-12). Remove the two black plastic covers to access the cylinder cap mounting bolts (Figure 5). Note: The black plastic covers will not be reused. Secure the mount area (bottom) of the ignition switch in a vise (Figure 6). NOTE: Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the key from the ignition switch before disassembling the switch. Remove the two “break-off” screws from the ignition switch using the special screwdriver. Set the stepped end of the sleeve on the special screwdriver facing toward the “break-off” screws (Figure 7). Strike the special screwdriver 5 to 7 times with a hammer to produce a deep enough groove on the screw head for the screwdriver to work properly (Figure 6). Pay attention not to hit other parts with the hammer. Turn to remove the “break-off” screws in a counterclockwise direction. If the groove becomes damaged, make another groove at a 90o angle to the original groove. Remove the ignition switch from the vise and hold it upright over the workbench and carefully remove the cylinder cap (Figure 8). NOTE: Pay close attention to the order and orientation of the ignition switch parts during disassembly. REPLACEMENT OF IGNITION SWITCH (Customer Sold Units/Dealer Demo Units- Only If Inspection Shows Incorrect Routing And Unit Has Been Ridden) New Ignition Switch Disassembly 2.

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INSTALLATION 1. Note the left and right areas on frame where the covers will be installed. Using a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, thoroughly clean the frame tubes surrounding the fuel cell on the left and right sides. Let dry completely. 2. Unlock and open seat. NOTE Loosening the ignition/light switch screw (in the following step) will allow much easier alignment of the ignition/light switch cover and ignition/light switch during installation. 3. See Figure 1. At area inside of frame rail just above the ignition/light switch housing, loosen the ignition/light switch screw just enough to allow the ignition/switch switch to move slightly from side to side and up and down. Do not completely remove screw 4. See Figure 4. Obtain the right side cover bracket (ignition/light switch side) from kit. 5. Remove the strips protecting the adhesive at all of the raised sections on the cover. 1 2 is 02045 1. Ignition/Light Switch Screw 2. Ignition/Light Switch Figure 1. Loosen Ignition Switch Assembly 6. See Figure 2. Carefully align the right side cover between the three frame tubes. Beginning with the left portion of the cover, press the cover between the upper and lower frame tubes until the raised portions of cover (with adhesive) begin to snap into place. While carefully aligning the right portion of the cover, move the ignition/light switch as necessary until centered within hole in cover, then firmly press into place. Adjust ignition/light switch until the switch is centered within cover. Make sure all raised locations (with adhesive) are firmly contacting the upper and lower frame tubes and that cushion rests against front vertical frame tube. 7. See Figure 1. Tighten the ignition switch screw to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs ) . NOTE The right side (ignition/light) switch cover surface can be damaged by the key fob (from vibration) when the key is in the ignition and the bike is running. You can either remove the key fob so it does not damage the cover surface, or you can install the plastic clear sheet (included in kit) onto the side cover for protection. 8. If desired, perform the following to install the plastic clear cover onto the ignition/light switch cover. a. Obtain the plastic (rhino) sheet and hold up to the switch cover to determine proper orientation and spacing. b. Carefully peel the adhesive backing from the plastic sheet and position onto the cover. Use a wet sponge, and working out from the center, rub out any bubbles or overlapped areas under the sheet. Allow to dry completely.

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Grasp the sides of the electrical caddy (located next the ignition coil) and pull outward to remove. 3. Remove the relay and fuse panels from the electrical caddy. a. Insert a small screwdriver into the slot under each fuse and relay panel. b. Using a screwdriver, disengage the panel from the electrical caddy. 4. Disconnect the main fuse connector from the electrical caddy a. Remove the main fuse from the connector b. Insert small screwdrivers into the slots on each side of the main fuse c. Depress the tabs of the main fuse connector to disengage it from the electrical caddy
Thunder Heart Performance Corp. 615-672-8811 www.thunder-heart.com 2 EI5075.doc 5. Depress the tab located on the electrical caddy securing the TSM/TSSM. Pull it from the electrical caddy. Disconnect the TSM/TSSM connector. 6. Slide the data link connector towards the front of the motorcycle to disengage it from the electrical caddy. 7. Disconnect the ignition control module connector. 8. Disconnect the ignition coil connector and spark plug cables from the coil. 9. Remove the electrical caddy fasteners (3 total). 10. Remove the wiring from the electrical caddy. 11. Remove the fasteners securing the factory ignition control module from the electrical caddy. 12. Installation of the Digital Ignition Module is the reverse of removal. 2.2 Touring Models 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the right saddlebag. 3. Gently pull the side cover from the frame downtubes (no tools required). 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. Remove the two socket screws to detach the ignition control module from the electrical bracket. 6. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 50-60 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 2.3 Softail Models 1. Remove the seat. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the two screws to free the ignition control module from the mounting bracket. 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 15-21 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal