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Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Karijni NP - the best and the worst of Australia

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An interesting evening
spent with Celso & Ines – (their English is basic, but my
Portuguese is non-existent) – I discover that Celso is doing post
doctoral work at Curtin University in chemical engineering.
Something to do with using natural fibres in tyres. We had agreed
that in the morning we would do one of the gorge walks before they
resume their journey and set off towards the coast.

Karijini has a number
of gorges that cut through the landscape. The gorges close to Dale's
camp are easily accessible and we have a great walk – first
along the rim, then descending down to the creek bed and following
it back upstream to the swimming holes.

As we climb out of the
gorge and commence the walk back to the camp site, I hear the
familiar sound of Marco's VStrom. Marco & Ursala have finally
caught up!

After bidding Celso &
Ines farewell and agreeing to catch up when we get to Perth, I head
back down to the swimming hole with Marco and Ursala. We spend the
afternoon in the cool of the gorge, swimming at will and commenting
on the attitude of the visitors who pass by.

There are 3 distinct
types. Gen 'X' travelers and backpackers. Usually Europeans – lots
of French and Germans – in camper vans and cars. Grey nomads in
caravans and large mobile homes. Then there are the "Miners" – single males from
the local mine camps.

The Gen 'X' travellers
are out to have a good time. They appear to travel in groups and set
up camp together. Most are OK, but some are totally oblivious to the
environment they find themselves in. Twice we caught young French
girls using shampoo to wash their hair in one of the pools. This
particular pool is of special significance to the local indigenous
people, and has signposts asking visitors to treat it with respect.
When we confronted one of the French girls about using shampoo, her
response was to say “But it's OK. The shampoo is organic!”. I
asked her if she would be happy to wash her hair in Notre Dame
Cathedral? She just looked blank. Marco wondered if she would object in swimming in his urine - after all it is also organic!.

As I say – totally oblivious to
the the significance of place.

The other
disappointment was the attitude of the miners who turn up over the
weekend for R & R. They travel in packs and are loud, usually drunk, foul mouthed and
totally insensitive to their surroundings or the other visitors to the
park. They arrive in mine
vehicles, complete with eskies full of beer and proceed to trash the
place. The local camp hosts tell us that it is a growing problem and
park authorities are trying to have them banned. Single loud drunk
males, with to much money and nothing better to do on their days off
than treat a world heritage site as if it were a trash heap.

Still – in a couple
of hundred thousand years (blink of an eye in this part of the world) it will
be like we humans were never here. The landscape will endure.

Karijini. A great place to experience the majesty of the Pilbara
– just avoid the weekends.

PS - The visitors centre is also worth a visit. Amazing rusting iron architecture - perfect for the landscape!