Mark:
in small batches: you almost have to buy calcium bentonite online. My supplier is minimum of 50lbs, they prefer 500 lb orders. PM if you are interested.
Bill: Grace likes her recipe and has adapted it for her use, so my reply was to keep it that way.
T

Well LT: the answer to temperature was right under my nose. Temperature increase= increased ionic movement. Temperature decrease =...basic thermal principles. Apparently 60F is the point that motion decreases to the point where it effects the negativity created by cation exchange. Less negativity moves the solution from defloc to floc.- which in turn particle stacking: which in turn produces anywhere from warping to compromised green strength.

Grace:
there is a very simple fix to your recipe to bring it from 95 to 100%, that will also help fix the low alumina issue without altering the finish.
Keep your 95% recipe and add 5% grolleg kaolin. Grolleg is very clean clay, plus it will supply 37% alumina! plus it will help a bit with suspension. Do you have access to calcium bentonite? ( also known as Fullers earth)
T

@Callie Beller Diesel " I'm playing more with how glazes really react and using different fluxes to draw things out of the clay body beneath than I did before. "
And I have been playing with clay that specifically cause reactions in glaze. Trying to find your voice in clay comes down to whatever restrictions come with your geographical area. Utility costs, codes, material availability, shipping, and the big factor: local markets. Learning to service your own kiln is beneficial as well. If you are already well down the road of electric and are familiar with the process: stick with it unless electric costs are just too prohibitive.

The difference between reduction and oxidation are the number of oxygen molecules left in the glaze. Actually I would be focused on a complete melt. Been playing with cone 3 for a couple of years now-doable. Fear not: technology will come to a kiln controller near you: "Alexa, fire me a nice red glaze."
T

Shawn:
As with all things pottery: the reasons for gas or electric vary according to need, utility costs, and desired glaze effects. I have a 15.5 CF electric front loader: it holds a fair amount of product. My property is zoned agriculture and we have a rural co-op electric supplier. They recently raised our rates to 8 cents a kilowatt: still dirt cheap. I can fire a cone 6 glaze cycle for around $10; which is probably as economical as gas. Front loaders are pricey; so that comes down to save your back or save your bucks.
if you go electric; then by a production kiln. These kilns have thicker brick, and additional fiber; both of which save $$$$. When you fire big kilns; you save money by not pushing them. In a glaze fire from bisq: I will ramp at 300F until I hit 2000F: then 120f until I hit 2230F. The big power draw is the upper end of the firing: which can eat 40% of the cost for the last 200 degrees.
The type of pieces you plan to sell will also play a role in kiln size. I drew out the interior of the kilns I was looking at: and figured out how many would fit the chamber size. Homework time.
t

Begs:
looking at your second unfired piece: there are obvious large particles in your clay. Need to start with some processing: sieving dry clay through an 80 mesh screen would help. You have plenty of iron to produce terra cotta: just need more heat. Get up in the 04-02 range and the terra cotta will deepen. Adding 15% talc would help: talc will help control thermal expansion/thermal shock issues. The dark grey/black are both carbon (ash) issues: although magnesium can produce those colors. There are ways to control plasticity: rather increasing or decreasing those levels. You have a workable clay: just need to address the deficiencies.
Tom

So after spending some time with Mrs. Folgers.
Hitch: a planning trick I teach new home buyers.
draw out each work room on 1/4" graph paper: 1/4" = 1' . Measure the foot print of wheels, slab rollers, kilns, etc. a potters wheel would be 2' x3' of floor space for example. Measure on 1/4" graph paper, cut out each item and either color them or write on them. Use your cut outs to lay out on your room graph. Now you have a visual of how they ( and you) will function in the space. Do not drive yourself crazy by trying to cut 31.5 x 22.3: round up- make life simple.
T

Hitch:
not a floor plan- a flow chart. Meant to keep your eyes on effiency. What is just as needful as a floor plan- is a growth plan. How will this space be used 5-10-20 years from now? How many potters, helpers, kilns, wheels, etc.etc.etc. will be working here ten years from now?
They make 500 gallon solids tanks: about the largest available for residential use. Private sanitary systems are sand filters these days: the old septic with laterals is ancient history: as are Norweco. You will have to install floor traps before the sewer line exits.
Gas lines are usually installed on the top chord of the truss. Run 1" from you planned exterior hook up, across the attic: with 1" drops on the walls you plan to install kilns. Cap them off. The feeder lines are suppose to be visible in your application: certainly the shut offs and dirt legs.
You have large rooms: place an electrical track in the ceiling or st minimum outlets: so you do do have extension cords everywhere. The cords hang from the ceiling to the wheel, etc.
glasrock makes exterior panels as well: might have linked the wrong one.
pay attention to exterior door thresholds: do not want to jump thresholds with a pallet jack: ADA thresholds work.
consider running a 200 amp sub panel from the. 400 amp main to the kiln room for easier future expansion. You could install the main there, but doubt local codes will smile on that idea. My big 90'amp front loader has its own ground, seperate of the primary ground. Service disconnects at each kiln is advisable.
1" waterservice minimum.
You local code enforcer might bring up fire suppression. When they do: remind them that kilns are built to contain fire, not start them...it worked for me
tom