I've been designing a headache rack with a rooftop basket attached (not sure if i want to weld rack or bolt it on for removal) and wanted to see if anyone had any input as to design flaws or additions. I plan on putting gussets where the rack and basket meet up. I only plan on using it for a camping gear/ATV riding gear, and a cooler. Curious to see what you all think. Also, plan on doing light tabs near wind deflector.

looks strong. Your cantilevered transition between the rack and the basket should be strong enough to hold its own weight but for extra measure, i would tie it into the factory roof racks forward most mounting points. this will alleviate any bouncing when you load it up with a cooler.

also, you're showing sq tube from the whole construction. I would opt to use flat bar behind the glass and angle iron in a heel up orientation for the base of the basket to save weight.

looks strong. Your cantilevered transition between the rack and the basket should be strong enough to hold its own weight but for extra measure, i would tie it into the factory roof racks forward most mounting points. this will alleviate any bouncing when you load it up with a cooler.

also, you're showing sq tube from the whole construction. I would opt to use flat bar behind the glass and angle iron in a heel up orientation for the base of the basket to save weight.

My brother has a cheaply made ladder rack for his 1ton Ford LB that is like what you're describing Oz. For something tough to be made with that cross member would be very interesting to me. I also haul dirtbikes, OP, and I bet you could make the crossmember to be removable. Slide it out, load the bike, slide the beam back in. Bolts or quick pins.

My brother has a cheaply made ladder rack for his 1ton Ford LB that is like what you're describing Oz. For something tough to be made with that cross member would be very interesting to me. I also haul dirtbikes, OP, and I bet you could make the crossmember to be removable. Slide it out, load the bike, slide the beam back in. Bolts or quick pins.

My brother has a cheaply made ladder rack for his 1ton Ford LB that is like what you're describing Oz. For something tough to be made with that cross member would be very interesting to me. I also haul dirtbikes, OP, and I bet you could make the crossmember to be removable. Slide it out, load the bike, slide the beam back in. Bolts or quick pins.

The rear crossmember in that pic is removeable and nests against the front when not in use , I'll see if I have another pic

The roof rack they made on "trucks" was kind of what you're going for. Theirs wobbled more than I would want though, that's going to be kind of tough to get around with the cantilevered design I would think.

Think twice before "connecting" a bed rack to a roof rack; If you do even mild off roading, there WILL be frame flex/twist. that is why the bed is separate from the cab, to allow for some movement. Bolting a bed/roof rack to roof mounts and bed mounts could cause damage somewhere..... at the weakest point of attachment.

For the cantilever design to work and be strong, the wall thickness of the verticals, and the size of the "triangles" will play an important role. There are a couple different ways to do a cantilever type support.

You are asking a lot from that type of design. Notice how true over-cab ladder racks are not bolted to the cab, but usually have a cantilever support for the over-cab section, and bolt only to the front and rear of the bed.... for the strength to carry the rated load capicity of the ladder rack.