They thought we were Swedish, but I knew it was just to kick-start the craic. You see, in this familiar part of Dublin everybody wants to know your business.

I had just sat down in vibrant Temple Bar with my first pint of Guinness and my wife, who I admit is pretty blonde, and the conversation went a little like this.

“Where do you think they are from?” was the topic of conversation on the sparky table next door. The chaps were literally within touching distance in The Palace pub, on Fleet Street and a short walk from the main square.

“Swedish,” came the response, and agreeing heads nodded. I quickly stepped in – because the craic is what I wanted – with “I can understand what you are saying.”

“Oh, you’re English...”

Two hours and three pints later and we had heard a series of tales, jokes, life stories and moans (“drinking the black stuff in England is like sucking an iron bar”) before having our picture taken behind the long bar with Tommy the landlord. I stopped just short of pulling my own pint.

Temple Bar is the heartbeat of Dublin and we were staying in its most famous hotel with a backdoor straight out on to the cobbled streets.

The Clarence is owned by U2 stars The Edge and Bono, although they call him Paul here and pick fun at his height, according to a taxi driver.

The boys will be playing monster stadium Croke Park next month, and on Wednesday their super-professional landmark hotel will celebrate summer by holding a one-off ‘madness day’ – 150 rooms go on sale at 129 euros a pop. Be quick as they will sell out fast.

We had been upgraded to the top floor suite for our two-night visit with rooftop terrace looking up and down the River Liffey – this has to be one of the best views in Dublin.

Another is from the Guinness factory, Ireland’s most popular tourist destination everybody visits.

Back to the Palace: “The last to stay up there (the suite) was the black girl with the high heels, you know the one?” My new best friends put their heads together and finally arrived at Tina Turner.

I think they were half expecting an invite up – the room has a reputation in the Irish capital, and there is certainly the room for 20 people to have a ball.

Hotel reception confirmed there have been many famous parties on the wooden floorboards and I’m sure these guys, and the 80-year-old woman they had recruited mid-afternoon, could have done the showbiz-setting justice. It is ‘savage’, which in Dublin means out of the top drawer.

However, unfortunately perhaps, we shook off the dream team and carried on with our drinking alone at the Porterhouse, Ireland’s oldest microbrewery and the one featured on the BBC’s Oz and James Drink to Britain. The place, a short walk from The Clarence, is a shrine to beer and live music packs it out every night.

But I should say Temple Bar is not just about the Guinness. The ‘old city’ is all Irish charm and good times with a bohemian atmosphere you will love.

We found a great street food market and tasted the most delicious ginger and lime cup cakes ever at Lolly and Cooks in George’s Street Arcade, while converted 18th Century townhouse the Powerscourt Centre is an amazing space.

Established labels combine with individual boutiques, art galleries and restaurants seamlessly over the three floors. There is so much choice and variety, you could walk around Temple Bar all day and night – and it really gets going at night, as you can imagine.

For sophistication and cocktails, The Octagon Bar at The Clarence is the place – head barman Szabi Sandor won the Irish championship this year with his Russian Passion, an infusion of Smirnoff Vodka, melon liqueur with pear, grapefruit, lychee, lime and passion fruit. My wife loved it, although I preferred the less sweet Cairpirinha.

Dinner that night was at the hotel’s acclaimed Tea Room restaurant, with its soaring 20ft ceiling, which successfully combines France and Ireland. The market menu is good value at £23 for three courses but the option is there to splash out on the tempting a la carte offerings.

Prices in the city, which trades in euros, have started to reflect the current economic times – “it got mad,” said another taxi driver, “now things are getting realistic. You still pay more for a pint of Guinness here than you do in Ethiopia though – where’s the sense in that?”

Taxi drivers, you will learn, are worth the fare for the comedy alone. They know absolutely everything about everything and do not need to be asked to tell you so.

Dublin is unpredictable and one of the few cities I have visited where it is best not to over-plan.

Just turn up, and let the warm people play out your adventure. It’s a great craic.

Factfile

Stuart stayed at The Clarence Hotel, 6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. Call on 0808 2381000 or visitwww.theclarence.iefor more information and best booking rates and deals.