So, today I went down to Performance Off Road again to talk about the Zip Locker install. Roy, the owner there has done several in the past and knew exactly what to do. They will get on it first of the week so I should have the basic axle done pretty soon.

While that is going on, I will be cuttin' drillin' sawin' and prayin' out loud over stuck bolts and such as I get into this shackle flip project.When I got home there was a box sitting next to the orange cat with WFO written on it.

Inside was this:

Speaking of left coast crap, this would definitely not qualify in any way shape of form. These are quality parts, the first of this expansive order I made with Beau over at WFO Concepts.Look at the robustness of this shackle flip bracket:

The shackles are 6" long bolt center to center and will provide for 5.5" of lift by themselves. That, of course will permit me to remove that horrid lift block and get that rear axle safely bolted in place.

Rotating the spring downward will kick up the pinion angle about 6 degrees. I like the current pinion angle so I purchased these 6 degree shims to make all that just like it is now. Hard to see but those two thin slices of pie right there will correct the improper angle.

3" wide bushing for our wide spring

You got to love the quality of those welds! Stacked dimes going on there big time!

Here's the SOB (Stack of Boxes)What were you thinking? Eh?This thing got smaller with the stuff hauled off to Performance Off Road. Randy's Ring and Pinion had thoroughly populated that area with enough stuff to block the view of the bottom 2 branches of that jap maple. Then before the WFO addition, I could see it pretty well...But, alas, it's getting covered up again...

Quote:Originally Posted by flyin6 Rotating the spring downward will kick up the pinion angle about 6 degrees. I like the current pinion angle so I purchased these 6 degree shims to make all that just like it is now. Hard to see but those two thin slices of pie right there will correct the improper angle.

Posted by El Tate:I know you have front custom driveline plans in the works, but what are your plans if any for the rear driveshaft? with that back axle dropping down, you have the pinion correction taken care of but that also pulls the driveshaft further out of its slip yoke. I would hate to see you on other threads in this forum chasing vibration in your old age.

...by stlaser:El Tate, what's your recommendation on proper spline engagement? At what point does vibration become a factor? I have my own opinions but thought I would hear your professional opinion or what is recommended by your techs.

...El Tate:I really don't like to see more than an inch of exposed spline in a fully unloaded suspension. Once you start to get beyond that, the bearing/bushing inside of the slip yoke no longer supports the end of the driveshaft and you get that really fun vibration gremlin everyone can't seem to figure out.

Push it too far, and you wind up slamming on your brakes when a honda stops short, sucking the rear axle back far enough to drop the driveshaft on the street, and slam your slip yoke into your gas tank and making a mess in front of your dad's place. Oh wait, that was MY learning experience.

All said and done 12K-13KThat would be for total premium parts like this project here.You could save thousands by going with a stick 4.10 axle you purchased for a grand.I still don't think you could easily get it under 7K even with a friend in the business, and then you'd have a marginal setup...

So, we all know the Scout thing fell out because of some funny business with the VINI really wanted to build that thing...

But anytime something is taken away, something comes along that is generally betterYa know, you hated losing that girl friend, but then in waltz's your future wife...like that.

Well, I offered a gentleman 4K for a 1991 intercooled Dodge 2500 Cummins 4X4.He just said OK.SoI'll be doing the paperwork check on that one to see if it works out, so don't get all excited just yet!But I am!

Well to update, things are moving right alongThe axle is becoming an assembly. Sort of feels weird not doing it myself, but no case stretcher says it's out of the realm of possibility for the kid from Kentucky.The WFO parts shipment required FedEx to add another truck to it's vehicle fleet just to get all that stuff going. Sort of reminds me of the way our Bell 214ST (sort of a fat looking Huey thing) looked all filled up with mail. And I mean filled. I saw that bird take off completely cubed out with boxes and oned I chuckled when I saw it hovering beside me prior to takeoff with a couple of boxes sitting on the instrument panel glare shield. I'll bet the pilots also had letters stuffed in their flight suit pockets!Anyway I diverge, which is totally unlike me!The topper seems to have made just a tad difference in fuel economy. I had been running 18.3 prior to it's addition, and now I run 18.0-18.1. That may just be the temp change as it went from 80's and dry to 90's and humid.

Anyway, I'll find something to do to it tomorrow. Seems ashamed to have owned it a day now and not to have drilled a hole in it...

Went over to Performance Off Road in Alexandria, KY to check on the diff progress.I was surprised to find it was done! Yep all bolted together sitting there pretty as a pin!I was in my buddies jeep which would be totaled if you placed a HPD60 housing in the back, so it's still sitting there, pretty as a pin!Roy and his mechanics evaluated the king pin cones and we are all in agreement that they are fine to reuse...There is barely any discoloration in them, let alone wear.So that will make the job of rebuilding the king pins about 500% easier!

Hopefully, I can buzz over there in the morrow and get that sucker policed up and packed back to my shop where I can begin reassembly of all these pretty

Remember the Scout purchase that fell through, well, way back then the square fender Chevy V3500 as well, but this one worked!It's a 1991 Intercooled 12 Valve Cummins W250 Dodge. 171K really ugly automatic and needs some serious stuff right away, but other than that it's a sweetheart!

I'm going to start a build thread down in non-duramax, other diesels on this truck as I take it from its current questionable condition to restored and an EMP proof additional survivor truckI'll post up the link after I get that thread started.

The problem with the way ARE set up doors, both side and rear, they open too far. At one point I thought about adding a limit strap onto the doors, but that might get in the way and hang outside when closing.

So, after some study, I noticed that all I had to do was to relocate the gas strut mounts and they would be self limiting.

So that's what I did.

Here's the doors open before the mod:

The rear doors pushed hard against the bumper and the side doors went up almost out of reach.

By repositioning it all got much better.

Here's the brackets

The side window/doors get a lot flatter. I believe if I place a good rubber gasket at the hinge they would shed water well enough to leave open in the rain

Tracey of WFO Concepts just sent me these photos. Beau laid everything out that was going into this SAS radius arm suspension he sent me to showcase it all.It won't look like this for long!

Well, there's always something...That WFO Shipment was 3 boxes, not twoThey shipped three boxes, and UPS delivered 2!I'm not that smart but I can get that much.By my estimates I should have blocked off yet another set of branches on the Jap maple, but I can clearly see them still, all purple and lacy lookin'...That means something that should have restricted my vision is missing...The bad part in all of that is that UPS says they delivered the shipment!

eyes B needin' basic transportation, and that truck is just a couple rungs of the ladder above peddlin'

So that's the next big adventure. I figure a solid week of well, cutting, grindin' replacin' kleenin' and discoverin' and that old bird will be ready to carry my happy butt around while I accumulate wounds and scar tissue cutting apart the Chebby!

I am actually ordering and stacking in all the parts for the SASIt's a perfect time to build Square D while I get everything for the big project.

It is going to be my best build yet. some smart people (I would not be one!) are really looking into this build and throwing their two cents into the mix. I am arguing with them and explaining how little they know, while secretly adopting their ideas!It's going to be a good one, and understated as wellLess is more!

....Not much to report except Square D, the support/back up truck is coming right along. Not much longer before I am ready to tear into Combat Max

I can't remember what I posted here, with so much going on with Square D right now, and writing all of that on it's build thread.

But, Beau at WFO Concepts has the shocks. We had some 2.5" king 12" stroke coil overs built for the front, and 2.5" smooth body King shocks with remote reservoirs made up for the rear.He additionally added in a pair of 2" Air bumps along with the weld on brackets for those.When the suspension pieces were specked out, consideration was given to a mission gross weight of 10,000 lbs. and a daily running weight of 8700 lbs. The scenario where I have to leave the pavement at high speed into the rough was a driving consideration.We felt the shocks, given the unsprung weight of the Dana 60 and the front vehicle weight of around 5,000 pounds would likely overcome even those really big 2.5" pistons. So we added the air bumps to soften up what would have been a sudden stoppage (Read: break something) event.

So all of that will soon be on it's way.

I sold the lift kit and the steering stuff to a gentleman, Patrick, yesterday. He's local so we'll work together taking everything off which will arm him with the knowledge of how to reassemble. Scrutinizing the lift kit yesterday, I have to say, it is still in excellent condition. It should last for years to come.

Most of you on here are also on the 12 valve survival truck build as well, so these pics will be from the department of redundancy department.

I painted the GLO cover Shawn sent me with some Nason Acrylic enamel, a Dupont product

That color is "Lycoming Gray" the color that company paints all of it's aircraft engines with. Over the years and thousands of prefight's, I have found that color is good for showing leaks, chaffing areas and cracks...Yes aircraft engines crack!

Here it is on that beefy cover Shawn makes over at Great Lakes Off Road.The others in the pic are the front and rear covers for the 12 valve project I also have going on (For those of you who remain D-Max pure)

Not much actual work going on with this project, but there is quite a bit happening behind the scenes.Beau over at WFO Concepts has machined and pressed on the tone ring onto the Ford HPD60 hub. He has ordered a 2011 LML tone ring sensor to make sure the bracket works, or to make up a proper one.We have been talking about brakes and bolt circles. I will need to convert to the 8 on 6.5" for sure, since there is not enough material in the hub to machine holes for the 180mm bolt circle. That's all well and good, but we are unsure as to whether we can use the 2011 rotor which is a massive 14" and not have to convert back to the 2010 rotor which is around 13". He has obtained a LMM and a LML rotor and is awaiting a LML caliper to mock all of this up. There is an even chance that I will be able to simply swap on the factory brakes which will make this SAS one of the best and most innovative anywhere.The rear is still a question, and I will soon be digging into all of that, when I get Square D up and running, and that's coming right up. I am somewhat hopeful that I will just be able to bolt on a 2010 LMM hub and be done with it. I am a bit concerned, however since the AAM 11.5 axle in the LML actually has larger differential carrier bearings than the LMM has...EEK! Yea, I don't want to be buying another axle, and I definitely don't want to be swapping all those pretty locker and gears into some other housing in which it just may not fit.Well, that's the thing about leading...someone has to go first!

Quote:Originally Posted by t****I love your build, but I'm sorry man for what you're spending I'd have them figure out the front axle to keep 8x180mm and the LML brakes front and rear. It can be done, it's that simple.

-TJ

Actually, it can't be done and that is the problem.Look at the D60 hubIt's cast steelThe 6.5" bolt circle it has would have to be welded up then redrilled for the 180mm pattern. The problem there is the circumference of the hub is not large enough to accommodate the bigger bolt circle.So I suggested we mill a steel ring and press it onto the hub, then weld it. Then drill the thing for the studs. Well, there is a problem with welding to cast steel and getting good penetration. Now keep in mind that you'd have to drill through a questionable area to anchor a stud that ultimately holds your front tire/wheel on. Sound like something you'd feel comfortable with?Me neither!So the fact is that you can't just install the 180mm lug pattern. But we may be able to use the stock brakes, the jury is still out on that one.

Posted by t****:I suppose you're just making my case... it sounds like you (and anybody else that ever plans to SAS a '11+ truck) needs a custom hub made. Like I said, it can be done......there is no reason that can't be made with a bigger flange and whatever bolt pattern you want on it. I had Porsche 996 TT front brakes on my '99 Camaro Z/28 because they were far cheaper/better than aftermarket options back then (nearly 10 years ago). It took some custom made brackets for the calipers and we were lucky that the factory rotors had plenty of meat to drill in a new bolt pattern. Trust me, it CAN be done.

If I was you I'd rather spend the $ to get the front axle to take your brakes, wheels etc. and then not have to touch the rear axle vs. downgrading everything to work with the old bolt pattern.

I know I said this before, but at this point you are changing the entire truck... you might as well have started with a Dodge if you wanted compromises. If you want to make this truck perfect for you don't accept defeat...

Quote:Originally Posted by flyin6 Good attitudeThought the dodges had an ugly front endChevy gave me 0% financing(Which is laughable since I paid the truck off in 5 months!)

OK there Airborne, I'll take a look at those hubs.

But I think Beau Huskins at WFO already checked them out

...t****:Those are just a random picture of D60 hubs I found. My point was just that any good machinist can build those hubs with any flange and bolt pattern you want. Sure, they'll cost you... but probably less than buying all new wheels, maybe new brakes, a new rear axle or hub swap on yours etc. And besides being more cost effective in the end you keep all the big, beefy '11+ parts.

The 180mm pattern is really only for the 2011 forward GM HD's...whereas there are millions of trucks with the 6.5" pattern.Now consider my themeSurvivalI get a set of tires shot out or worn out or just outI find the nearest Ford or Dodge and I'm back in bees-wax (I guess that meant back in business)as my momma used to say!So I didn't look at it as a defeat, but a step toward the ultimate survival truck.

...t****:.......The point wasn't that those hubs are your answer, just that they are big hunk of metal carved out for a specific duty. Anything can be made... it's just a matter of cost. I still think a custom set of hubs (maybe 3 total, to have a spare) would be less total cost than changing everything else. Then there all the advantages of keeping your big brakes etc.

Quote:Originally Posted by t**** Thank you sir! I just try to think beyond what is available or easy and pick what is actually best. If you can keep your LML brakes, swap rear hubs to keep the bigger rear axle bearings (and LML brakes) out back, and run a super-common lug pattern that does fit your requirement better.

-TJ

Ah, young sky-walker, that is exactly what we are trying to do at the moment.Beau is fitting up the factory caliper and both rotors, 10 and 11 along with his modified bracket to see if we can get all that to work.The one piece that seemed insurmountable was the 180mm lug pattern.Given that I'd rather have a more common size, I'm not arguing with that issue, it's a work aroundThe good news is that very soon indeed, we will have figured out haw to SAS a LML truck the right way and have parts to duplicate...

Well, I continue to press forward on the Square D project, which will back up this truck when it get's plasma'ed.That is turning into more of a project than changing out some fluids and a couple parts.Check out that build thread to see how it that Dodge Cummins build, in a Duramax forum, may now have a Ford Sterling rear axle...Yea...No I don't understand me either...

Edit: But it's Sunday. I'm going to the Lord's house, I need to get recharged

(7867)Quote:Originally Posted by Armalite Why swap out the axle flip kit? You already have one installed, so I'm assuming that the new one will add height, by 1", is that correct?

The single arm traction bar will work. Seen that setup used on a friends monster truck down here. Running 2.5 ton rocks, with 6' tractor tires. Used a single traction on front, and a single on the rear. Kept them from winding up, but he was able to keep all the flex when tackling those bad holes that he needed the flexing in...

I flipped the U-boltsShackle is still factory configuration, which is a pretty good design.But to keep it, I would have to eventually get new springs in order to eliminate the block(s), instead of just reusing the excellent factory spring.

I built a single sided traction bar for the Tundra...I might have posted it a thousand or two pages ago, can't remember...But I know how to do the design, Bar mounts to top and bottom of axle with a simple bushing. Then triangulates to single front point which has a Johnny style joint. That connects to a shackle which connects to the frame (cross member) with another bushing. As the axle moves up and down the shackle simply moves fore and aft. But the moment the axle tries to rotate due to engine torque, it is prevented, and actually lifts the rear of the vehicle instead. This momentary lifting force applies a force downward (Newton's third law of physics, for every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction). The downward force acts to plant the tires harder into the pavement (Mulch beds) providing more traction (Just in case you get into some of the slippery cypress mulch!)

Quote:Originally Posted by nmeyer414 So its been a while since we have heard anything about big red. Whats her story as of late?

Big red sits there with the trans partially torn apart. It's $3200 for the parts and another 3K-4K for labor...Figure $800 a day to install it. The problem I'm having is that only fixes the transmission with used parts. The final drives would remain untouched and could fail. For now on every time something breaks, figure 10K.So I have 20K invested in it at this point. It's a cool piece, and I need a track unit. But there are just no guarantees it wouldn't fail right away like it did this last time.My wife actually wants me to but a new Caterpillar!I started way back when looking for a compact track loader, sort of like a bobcat, but with tracks, and that eventually led to the purchase of big red.I need a permanent piece of earth moving equipment to develop the farm into a training and "camping" area, but I can't just throw away $$$.I did find another 1150B Case but this one is a rebuilt and painted Dozer, not a loader. It's only 5K so a great buy...Am considering it and parting out Big Red or keeping it on the farm hoping I can fix it cheaply...Dammed shame!

Beau is still messing around with the caliper adapter to use the factory LML brakes on this early HPD60

I am really hoping he will be able to figure that out.

Other than that, I am spending every day building out the Square Dodge which has turned into more of a restoration than a simple repair.

I just can't stand to do anything half way. I want it looking new and running that way as well. Square DI is coming along nicely though and will be a great truck to use part time and depend on whenever I need it.

Update:Talking with Beau over at WFO Concepts today. He has the front caliper brackets prototyped and is having them laser cut in a day or so. These will mount the slightly longer LML wheel anti-lock sensor, but, sadly, will use the 2010 calipers and rotors.

That's not all bad, I mean I will lose some braking with the LMM stuff being smaller, but at least I retain the anti-lock feature and keep the calipers fairly modern. The hubs are finished and ready to ship.Of course even though I will have all the parts, I will still not begin the tear down of Combat Max until Square D is up and ready to assume transportation duties

Anyone see those HMMV wheels/tires I have over on my 12 valve survival truck build thread?Well, looking at the worst tire on the D-Max, the left rear, now below 50%, and with snow approaching...I am thinkingThing is, that to run HMMV wheels, I'd have to change up the bolt pattern to the 180mm size. But to build in the SAS, for now anyway, I need to stick with the 8 on 6.5" pattern used on LMM and earlier.Possibly me or Beau can figure out a way to build the 180mm pattern into some custom hub later on, but for now...Looking at Stazworks centers, the ones pictured below. It sure would be cool to add a set of double bead locks onto the LML about now, instead of waiting.

After messing with those Armee tires/wheels, I'm thinking I will be stepping up to the 37" tire with the SAS conversion... That truck could really use larger rubber to cut down that 4.56 ratio somewhat. I think there is easily another 1+ MPG in that motor by reducing the rpm and using the torque more...

Quote:Originally Posted by streetrodchev I don't know if it will work, can you just swap the hubs and rotors from the older trucks to get the 8 on 6 1/2 bolt patern on the rear? Or will you have a spare for each bolt patern?

Actually you hit the nail on the head. I am planning to try exactly that, swap out the rear hubs for the 2010 units and see how that pans out.It may be possible, but the 11.5 AAM actually got upgraded in 2011! Tate check me on this, but the carrier bearings are bigger on the LML over the LMM. We (Me and Beau of WFO Concepts) do not know about the outer hub bearing yet. Or the axle. I think the axle is the same which helps considerably, but just not sure.The problem with the front is that you can't drill a Dana hub to fit a stud at 180mm. It gets into the very edge. We have some hope in looking at custom hubs. Beau is looking into that to see if they can tool up to make one to accept the wider bolt pattern.We have solved the rotor problem for the 6.5" bolt circle, though by using a Dodge 14" front rotor and Beau's custom bracket and our stock front caliper. I really want to keep all that as stock as possible. As of right now he has the Chevy reluctor ring pressed onto the Ford hub, so the brake computer will not know there is a HPD60 sitting under there.Like I said some time ago, I need to mature this technology a bit more before pulling the Plasma out and committing me.I am installing most of the link suspension setup into my square Dodge as an enhancement to it, and as a dry run for the eventual Chevy build. We're just getting smarter all the time!

Posted by El Tate:The carrier bearings remained the same, (3920 races and 3994) but the inner pinion bearing did graduate to a much larger O.D. 4.375 and is now a New Process timken factory. like most GM projects, the ring an pinion stayed the same, but the housing changed around it giving it a higher load capacity. I happen to know a few people that deal with bearing hubs...(yukon spin free kit for dodge) if i knew the dimensions you were looking for in particular i could at least check stock on blanks. PM me details if you like and i'll see if it's even a possibility.

Quote:Originally Posted by Armalite Was hoping to get back and read about some cutting going on in the front end of this black truck...

Sorry buddy...Tate is sitting on the edge of his chair as well...I seem to have gone whole hog on the Square D project. It is turning into a complete restoration/build in my typical style...I still haven't sourced the 105mm cannon, but I'm looking!That build is consuming all my time and will for some time to come. When it is done enough to drive and be proud of what I have, that is when Mr. Plasma meets Mr. Chebby for a major weight loss program!

Quote:Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 Thanks for the cool photos- answered my question on how the rotors turned in relationship to each other, -in opposition to each other "like" a blender. I wondered if the were both going same- guess that'd cause the craft to corkscrew everything you goosed the throttle?

Yes, they turn opposite and mesh in the center. They are separated by a combining transmission which both engines feed into at the front of the aft pylon. It's one of the secrets to the success of the Chinook. There is no torque effect as each rotor cancels out the torque effect of the other rotor.

Tail rotor helicopters like the Black Hawk have the tail rotor to keep them from spinning. Those tail rotors use a lot of available power. So essentially the tail rotor sucks up power just to keep the pilots from getting dizzy!

Most tail rotor helicopters use 60-80% of their available power just to hover! A Chinook with no load uses 40% !!It has so much extra power, it can actually hook up and carry, Earth!

The Blackhawk sometimes has a problem with lifting its paint!

No throttle goosing when two 4,500 horsepower engines are trying to rip themselves off your aircraft! You set them at 100% Rotor RPM, and governors keep them there. Goosing the throttle is done with the thrust (Up-down) lever

The Blackhawk has no such power problems, because, well, it has no power!

Posted by Cudakidd53:Poor neglected BattleMax.......gone the way of Big Red, Tac Topper and Gator Build.....we still think fondly of you all and eagerly await your returns to the lime light. Some day, SquareD will be coved in salt and dust, and you all will be wrenched upon again soon. WELLLLLL maybe not Tac Topper.

...Don:Naw the tac topper is gone, gone, gone

You will see Combat-Max wrenched on again...as sure as I own it, I will not be able to properly leave it alone!

To update the progress on this build,

I will be using the same coil spring setup as I eventually arrive with for Square D. The more I thought about it, the more that a single unit, coil-over shock setup was literally gambling on the success of just that one unit. A simple coil spring would be much more durable alongside a replaceable shock absorber would be more along the lines of a survival truck requirement for simplicity and stuff that works.Hopefully this suspension on the Dodge 12 valve swap will be fertile proving grounds for what is to come.

Quote:Originally Posted by Armalite Ohh boy... 24 valve p pump... We may get to that in 3-5 years from now...

We may indeed!

Here's the way this is rolling out:

The chebby is a great truck. I have made it extremely capable for the nightmare scenario I am preparing for.The Dodge which I am crafting up already has all of that and is of a more simplistic (Maintainable) design. And it will survive EMP and run on chicken grease. The Duramax will do neither. It will be a huge planter should the north Koreans or Chinese or Russians or Iranians pop a nuke in the upper atmosphere over these united states.

If I went backward in time with the Chevy, removing that wonderful Duramax engine and ally transmission, the sale of all that stuff would almost pay for the 6BT acquisition and installation. Then I would have a truck fully capable of handling anything.Plus the 6BT's can easily (As in more easily) be turned up to make as much power as the duramax engine, and there are no tunes! Nada on the electronics! No messing with cruise or tire size to get some da$$@!ed sensor to think it is doing the right thing. In fact, there are no sensors!

Just good old Chevy truck with a reliable, tunable, dependable, post society meltdown truck!

So, yea, a 6bt in the Chevy is a definite possibility, and I do not believe that would be "Going full retard!"

Quote:Originally Posted by FBJR Don, know the max is on hold but came across this and thought of your issues.

08 Duramax TT GT4718r/HTT66 build - Norcal1320.com

I don't think I am going to mess with that engine any more.

After messing with that old 12 valve mechanical injection Cummins motor. I am not going to put another dime in this incredibly complicated Duramax engine.

I think what I'll do is finish the Dodge build, then do the SAS on this truck, then yank out that Duramax and about a cubic yard or wires and replace it with a built P-pumped Cummins mechanical injection Cummins engine.

Seriously, why are we messing with this lunacy anyway? It's so restrictive, so complicated and we spend thousands eliminating stuff and playing with tunes that mechanical injection diesels don't even have!

I mean, how can this be a survival truck when a decent sunspot will kill the electronics.

Yea, I know I said all this before, but the more I work on that ancient Dodge the more I am wondering why I sew 60K into this truck when half of what it offers and has I don't even need.

Quote:Originally Posted by duramaxdarren What are the exact results of an EMP. Not what the movies show us. As far as vehicles go? If the diesel is running will it just die? Do we need all that would be effected to keep running? Would my Chevelle run? Got me thinking about having a back up plan

It depends on what size nuke and at which altitude it detonates.If it's low altitude or in the atmosphere, the effect is only slight. Well other than you just got exposed to the surface of the sun and the explosive force of every round fired from the WW1 and back through the beginning of time, EMP is probably only local and in the (I'm guessing) thousand or so watt range.

But a funny thing happens when the weapon detonates a couple hundred miles up. Is it called the Watson effect?? Can't remember, but the effect of the earth's magnosphere multiplies the pulse of electrons hundreds to thousands of times. So assuming someone wants to hurt us, I'm guessing they loft a pretty weapon from ships off our left and right coast to say 100 miles in altitude and pop them.

The pulse would likely be in the hundreds of thousands of watts range. So picture a wall of something like static electricity where everything it touches now passes it on. Big wires just pass it along, but when you try to squeeze all that wattage into a fine wire, say like a circuit board, then the wires all just pop, melt, or get fused together. Electronics which control everything are noting but micro fibers. To EMP these circuit boards are akin to kindling!

If your chevelle has a carburetor and a distributor with points and a condenser, then it will start just like it doesn't know the end of civilization just occurred.Your Duramax will never run again. All computers, sensors, switches, processors and a lot of wiring would have to be replaced. The factories that make that stuff would also have been destroyed...forever.

You see the scale of the destruction is so immense that we don't recover, at least not to anything we would envision. The modeling I have seen suggests one in six survive the first year, and maybe a forth of them go away during year two. Starting with 350,000,000 people in 1 Jan, the following year the US population would be less than 60 million, the following year we would start to stabilize around 45,000,000. A city of 3 million would be sitting around 480,000 and in trouble then settle around 360,000.

That's not the whole truth though. Because of the effects of the loss of civil control and civil obedience, the cities would suffer much worse numbers and those still there would likely live a hellish existence. All the 99% ers would be gone or turned to anarchy and the smart ones who protected and fed and managed would have long since departed. Country people, however, would now form the bulk of the survivors.

That's why I am not so worried about "it" if it happens. The loony left would be left to suffer that which they fostered and created, while we "Normal" Americans would inherit a ruined country to rebuild, but that's what we do anyway!