Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal and white

Although I love rich, natural colours (particularly in Autumn) I've always been fascinated by the subtleties of monochrome dressing.

It has such strong style, and yet there is so little too it. It's striking and unusual, and yet quiet.

These photos were part of a series in an advertising campaign for Cifonelli, the Parisian bespoke tailor that I've used fairly regularly for the past seven years, and certainly one of the best in the world in terms of fit and finish.

They were taken by photographer Jamie Ferguson around the National Theatre - one of London's best-known pieces of brutalist architecture.

The textured greys of the concrete, the metal railings and the shadows under the balconies reflected nicely the greys and charcoal in the jacket, shirt and trousers.

I find the key to monochrome outfits is to make sure there is enough contrast (in shade, texture or shine) between the tie and shirt or jacket.

The shirt and jacket can be similar (both perhaps greys in similar tones or textures) but there needs to be some contrast - and the tie is the most effective way to do that.

Here the tie is a navy grenadine, which I find adds much-needed richness compared to a charcoal or black. But still dark enough to seem part of the tonal whole.

There must also of course be sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser, and so a charcoal worsted works well below the waist.

In fact these trousers contrast with the pale-grey cashmere herringbone jacket in all three of: tone (dark/light), pattern (herringbone/plain) and texture (smooth/fluffy).

A white handkerchief also helps with contrast, being particularly stark.

The alligator shoes meanwhile play a similar role to the tie: dark enough to provide contrast, but being brown rather than black, adding a touch of richness and depth.

Anyway, that's why I like it and I how I think it through.

Not one for the office, but perhaps for an evening event - such as the theatre, in fact.

I only would do it oposite you mention: I never would wear it in the evening at the theatre but would so in the office since office attire has become more casual in the last 20 years. Of course it might be different in London.

Simon I have noticed that your tie knots are, relatively, wide? What are your views on this? For me a smaller knot tends to be a both a bit smarter and a bit more rakish. Now I know you will say it needs to balance etc, but generally you seem to be for a larger knot?

Is it possible for Bespoke makers to relast a shoe on another last? I made a bespoke shoe but was not 100% happy with the last after the first shoe so I requested changes to the last for my second. Could I request the maker to relast my first shoe to the improved last at a later time?

I’d say this is a lovely outfit for an evening out, although I think it would also look lovely with a roll-neck – or perhaps a denim shirt instead of a brushed cotton.

Just a question on the jacket fabric, is it SherryKash cashmere or Harrison’s Moonbeam lambswool/angora mix? Sorry to be pedantic haha, but you said the latter in the comments on the original post and the former on the “a pale-grey jacket with green corduroy” post.

If its moonbeam, would the fact you keep mixing it up with cashmere be a strong recommendation for the cloth – given that I’d presume it is substantially cheaper?

I’ve come to conclusion that seperates work best when the jacket is darker than the trousers. Not that this here isn’t working. You shared a few outfits over the last few years where it works great. (Your oatmeal-jacket for instance) But when in doubt I stick to that rule.

I admit I was initially sceptical about this combination having a disinclination toward big contrasts between jacket and trousers but the more I have looked at this the more I like it. The tone of the grey jacket is just dark enough and is balanced by the shirt (grey shirts are so useful, I remember your use of one with the Drakes collaboration). The navy tie as base for the monotone is spot on. The whole outfit gives a very muted feel to it. Any thoughts to an article about mixing very muted tones?

Yes essentially but the idea of muted shades and limited colour ranges prompted me to think of previous aside comments in articles – the Escorial jacket, for example. As an idea I wondered if a collation might be interesting.

Sorry, I have to admit that I do not like the dark trousers with light color jacket!. I prefer the other way around (medium grey jacket with light grey trousers). I think this shade of grey is a difficult color for a jacket, perhaps a light camel or beige trousers would work better with jacket.

Hi Simon, This is an interesting post on monochrome & style. Your understanding of it is workable in terms of style as it is soft. But as you know, there is a harder understanding of monochrome displaying no contrast whatsoever. And the hardest proponents of it could even dare going for black as color of the whole outfit: from shoes to tie! Personally, I’ve always doubted that it could work even for evening events. John

See comment above. It’s not easy and won’t be cheap either – you’re remaking most of the shoe. The only reason I did it with these was that the alligator skins were so nice and they are so expensive on their own.