It's a wise restaurateur who knows what his patrons want and serves them accordingly -- even before they've entered the facility.

Buck Hill Brewery and Restaurant managing partner Jay Mena's concern for customers starts in the parking area, providing both a place to tie up horses (the Paulinskill Trail, a popular destination for riders, is across the street) and special slots for motorcycles that traverse the winding roads of Warren County.

There's a lot of deer hunting in the area (venison will appear on the menu later this fall) so it's no surprise once inside the building to see a stag's head on the wall and a giant chandelier made of antlers as the centerpiece of the bar.

Buck Hill occupies the site of what once was the Forge, but gutting and renovation have produced a nicely appointed showplace seating 140 on two levels.

It serves a variety of people, from those horseback riders and motorcyclists to families with children (there's a kids' menu with $8 items) and folks on a casual date or joining friends for an informal evening out.

The cuisine is a step above what one might expect in such a laid-back place. Mena characterizes his vision for the food, much of which is sourced locally, as having "an American feel, what people are used to eating, with a little more flair to it."

That means you'll find regular fries ($5), of course, but also poutine ($9), the French-Canadian favorite featuring fries, cheese curds and rosemary gravy. (As with many items at Buck Hill, it's gluten-free.) Corn soup gets a tingling kick from pickled corn, along with red onion and bacon. Five beautifully grilled glistening shrimp ($11) are ready for dipping into well-modulated garlic beer butter and white BBQ sauce. Like all the sauces and dressings, it's made in-house.

Burgers ($12 for a black Angus cheeseburger, $13 for veggie) can be dressed up with a variety of additions at $1 each. Other choices include the French dip ($13) and a Cubano ($13) with mojo pork and smoked ham, getting a lift from Gruyere and beer mustard.

Moving on to the entrees, short rib ragu ($24) involves twisty torchio pasta tossed with tender braised meat, topped by a pile of grated Parmesan and herbs. It's a simple dish, yet one that satisfies and also is multi-level, exactly what Mena was describing.

A charred carrot and leek puree offers a different taste element with seared sea scallops ($28) and polenta. A classic steak frites plate ($22) is offered with the extra touch of a light peppercorn sauce over the tender eight-ounce hanger steak. It comes with house-made fries and a refreshing watercress salad. Bacon jam and brown butter sweet potato purees are the enhancers for the 10-ounce, bone-in Berkshire porkchop ($27) from Fossil Farms.

Portions are generous. "We want to make sure there's enough food on the plate so no one leaves hungry," Mena said.

There's obvious expertise in the kitchen. Executive chef Brett Carriere worked at the Ryland Inn under its innovative former chef, Craig Shelton, and attended the Culinary Institute of America. Chef de cuisine Jeff Hunter worked at the Frog and the Peach in New Brunswick while going to the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan before heading to the Ryland Inn while Carriere was there.

Desserts are limited to three kinds of cheesecake ($7) from Maddalena's Bake Shop in Ringoes, served with Chantilly cream or fruit compote, and three flavors of ice cream from Race Farm ($5), also on Route 94 in Blairstown. The four-month-old restaurant is evolving, with plans for an expansion of dessert offerings that will be produced on site.

Our servers were sharp. One condiment we requested was there in seconds, handed over by a smiling staffer proud of his snappy service. The place has caught on, and when it's filled, it's quite noisy -- the second floor isn't any quieter than the first floor with its bar. Reservations are taken only for parties of five or more.

The restaurant was named after the old Buck Hill Brewery, located in Hackettstown during the early 20th Century. This restaurant should have its own microbrewery running by Thanksgiving. Buck Hill grows its hops (farm to foam) in nearby Knowlton Township.

A home brewer, Mena is going pro with Bud Usinowicz, who started as a home brewer and went on to be a brewer at Krough's Brew Pub in Sussex. Until the brewery gets going, though, there's no shortage of draft beers, adjusted seasonally.

This is a place for all seasons, and many occasions, with a relaxed vibe that's fun.