Nothing represents the fantasies of food-obsessed Americans quite like the Pacific Northwest. It’s an unspoiled wonderland where the fish is always fresh, the produce pedigreed, and the people (somewhat eerily) enthusiastic. But our fascination with Portland and Seattle obscures a thrilling truth: The grass is even greener (and fresher, and tastier, and cheaper) on the other side of the 49th parallel. Vancouver is the real deal, a temperate paradise with an exploding food scene that takes advantage of pristine Pacific seafood and interior British Columbia’s bounty, diverse immigrant traditions, and of-the-moment culinary trends alike. “By Sea, Land, and Air We Prosper” reads the city’s motto. And after a few days eating our way across the city with food writer and local Lindsay Anderson, we’re inclined to agree.

1. Eastern Promises

Downtown Vancouver’s fine and good, but it’s Gastown, the buzzy neighborhood east of the city’s center, where you’ll witness a restaurant renaissance in full swing. These are the must-visits:

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The Birds & The BeetsHouse-made kombucha on tap. House-made filmjölk yogurt on top of house-made whole grain granola. House-made local fruit soda chaser to go alongside a locally roasted Bows & Arrows espresso. This sunny tropical-plant-filled counter-service café is the perfect place to linger while planning a day of serious eating. (Did we mention that they sell fresh flowers, too? How freaking cute is that?)

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L’AbattoirA seat at the spotlit bar is the move at this swanky French-inflected spot. Snag one of their next-level cocktails (the herbaceous Avocado Gimlet is 100 times better than it sounds), slurp a few tender baked Pacific oysters bathed in truffled garlic butter, and puzzle over how they keep the glassware straight on the slanted shelves behind the bar.

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Ask for LuigiThe city’s most talked about new-school/old-school Italian joint deserves the hype, with bottled Aperol spritzes, juicy meatballs, and hauntingly satisfying house-made pasta (order any noodle made with squid ink). Plus there’s that golden-hour light. What’s not to like? Pro tip: Arrive at least a half hour before this no-reservations restaurant opens to snag a table. There’s always a line.

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Alibi RoomThis decade-old tavern is the place to be for specialty suds in Vancouver. The super-knowledgeable staff is more than happy to guide you through the 50 local and imported drafts, but any of the inventive oddball brews from the hometown heroes at Brassneck Brewery are a must-order.

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2. Taste the Terroir

Want to know what BC farm-to-table is all about? Get thee to The Farmer’s Apprentice. Highly Instagrammable tasting menus (available in both “Herbivore” and “Omnivore” formats) showcase the best that the far PacNW has to offer, from stunning shellfish to earthy mushrooms, served to the tune of early Stones (on vinyl, duh). For a bit more casual vibe, drop by the restaurant’s next-door natural wine and cocktail bar, Grapes & Soda, for small plates like seared albacore tuna.

3. Seafood Sans Guilt

Restaurants all over the city proudly post the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise logo on menus to denote sustainable (and delicious) seafood options. Here are a few of our favorites.

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LingcodCrispy eight-spice lingcod served in a caramelized tamarind and palm-sugar sauce at Maenam.

4. Richmond Riches

Richmond, a 20-minute drive from downtown, is home to the most authentic Chinese food this side of the Pacific. With immigrants from Asia making up close to 60 percent of the population, it’s a paradise of dim sum halls and wild shopping malls hawking everything from pastry to Peking duck. Check out these spots.

Fisherman’s TerraceEnter the unassuming Aberdeen Centre shopping mall and you’re two escalators away from the dim sum that dreams are made of. The standards are all flawlessly executed, but the Shredded Chicken Cold Plate—a tumble of succulent meat, crisp Chinese celery, fried noodles, and tangy vinaigrette—sealed the deal for us.

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Lido RestaurantIf you order one thing from this bustling Hong Kong–style café, make it a pineapple bun—the fruitless Cantonese tea cake with an irresistible sandy topping of sugar, egg, flour, and lard. Order it with butter (just do it) and they’ll split the warm bun and stick a huge salty slab in there.

Dinesty Dumpling HouseIf you have room post–dim sum (or even if you don’t), venture one level down to Dinesty. The decor may leave something to be desired, but eight kinds of juicy soup dumplings—XO sauce and pork!—more than make up for it.

O’ Tray NoodleCross the street to President Plaza and go up one flight to the food court for O’ Tray’s tian jin jianbing. The savory mung bean crepe is topped with egg, scallions, soy paste, and flaky fried pastry before being folded into a tidy packet—probably the tastiest $4.75 you’ll ever spend.

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Excellent Tofu and SnacksWarm, soothing homemade soy milk is the only thing you need after a marathon of eating. (Okay, order a silky tofu pudding, too.)

5. Island Life

If Granville Island—the shopping district a short walk from downtown Vancouver—seems like a tourist trap, you’re not doing it right. Its Railspur District is where you’re going to find locally brewed sake from Artisan SakeMaker, flights of distilled-on-site spirits at Liberty Distillery, and a host of boutiques hawking handicrafts. And don’t leave without slurping a half-dozen Royal Miyagis at unassuming Tony’s Fish & Oyster Cafe—as cold and fresh as you’ll find anywhere in town.

It may be home to Vancouver’s best croissant (we don’t disagree), but it’s the crispy cardamom kouign-amann, peanut-butter sandwich cookies, and expertly pulled shots of 49th Parallel Coffee Roasters espresso that could keep us here all day.

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7. Yes, You’ll Have Fish and Chips

It is British Columbia after all. While places like Go Fish are superb for their on-the-water vibes, our pick is the landlocked Fish Counter. Opened by one of the founders of the Ocean Wise program, all the fish is responsibly sourced, impeccably fresh, and delicately fried.

Copyright Kamil Bialous Photograhy.

The handwritten menu at Dock Lunch.

8. Home Away From Home

A midday meal at American-born Elizabeth Bryan’s Dock Lunch, the impossibly homey living room-turned-café in the Mount Pleasant neighborhood, may quietly be the toughest get in the city. The handful of satisfying soulful plates on offer each day—think crunchy, juicy fried chicken, ultraflaky biscuits, and strawberry cobbler—often sell out faster than she can post them to her Instagram.