i compared the gt5 cylinder with a gt4cylinder and found several differences first the cylinder apeared to be smaller on gt4 the bottom port openings for the gt4 were smaller and more fit to the crank case also the exaust and intake manifolds were smaller on the gt4 the gt5 indeed had better breathing capibility stock

notice the awesome stock paint the black cylinder is gt5 and silver is gt4

ok ok so heres the story
first off i got a new gt5 motor and complety dissasembled it. that wasnt the problem the problem was after looking at how the crank case tranfer ports lined up with the cylinder transfer ports i realized the case ports were way smaller than the cylinders
i compared the gt5 cylinder with a gt4cylinder and found several differences first the cylinder apeared to be smaller on gt4 the bottom port openings for the gt4 were smaller and more fit to the crank case also the exaust and intake manifolds were smaller on the gt4 the gt5 indeed had better breathing capibility stock

well to move on i decided to match the crank case to the gt5 head and it worked till i decided that the flow into case should be smoother and thats where i got into trouble i ground throu the case into the magneto compartment

i went to a welding shop and asked what it would take they said 100 bucks an hour so i was like frack that ill just buy a new case but then my neighbor just got back in town hes a aircraft mechanic who hasnt tigged in a while i gave it to him to see what he could do about it

so theres the story ill include some pics of the case i still have matched to cylinder port and the two different cylinders gt4 and gt5

notice the awesome stock paint the black cylinder is gt5 and silver is gt4

Click to expand...

Don't feel embarrassed; this is R&D...research and development for benefit of all.

broke down a few times today on my huffy
first the rear derailer was acting up and jammin then my shifter broke so now im stuck in high gear
second i have in the past bent 1 out of 3 sprockets and today another one bent so now im in second gear up and that is slippin every rotation
getting up to speed to start is impossible i had to pull clutch handle then run with the bike drop the clutch put weight on seat while running to start the motor then pull clutch in to keep it running while running next to bike as fast as i can to hop on and start off
oh and if that wasnt baD enough at the clucth handle the adjuster screw vibrated out while riding so i had to use my brake lever as a cluthc handle leaving me with out breaks

it was a rough ride home but i made it with the gears messed up i couldnt even pedal home if i had to

broke down a few times today on my huffy
first the rear derailer was acting up and jammin then my shifter broke so now im stuck in high gear
second i have in the past bent 1 out of 3 sprockets and today another one bent so now im in second gear up and that is slippin every rotation
getting up to speed to start is impossible i had to pull clutch handle then run with the bike drop the clutch put weight on seat while running to start the motor then pull clutch in to keep it running while running next to bike as fast as i can to hop on and start off
oh and if that wasnt baD enough at the clucth handle the adjuster screw vibrated out while riding so i had to use my brake lever as a cluthc handle leaving me with out breaks

it was a rough ride home but i made it with the gears messed up i couldnt even pedal home if i had to

that's just how long the axle is. the "over lock nut dimension" (which is from cone nut to cone nut) is 109mm.

should fit your frame just fine...

Click to expand...

cool... also had a thought about a flip-flop hub. since it'd have a fixed on one side and a freewheel on the other. could potentially run the motor on the fixed side since it uses a left handed lock ring (motor would just make it tighter as it spins)

cool... also had a thought about a flip-flop hub. since it'd have a fixed on one side and a freewheel on the other. could potentially run the motor on the fixed side since it uses a left handed lock ring (motor would just make it tighter as it spins)

Click to expand...

If this is a flip-flop hub, wouldn't it have a RIGHT-handed lock ring?

ok so i actually did a bit to my bike today i put a used shifter, new cable,new cable housing,used crank sprocket, and fenders homemade fenders

i fixed my bike got it up to snuff and did it for free didnt cost me a thing epcept a little volenteer time to pay for parts

but on the way home about 3 blocks from home when coming to a stop my engine flooded and would not start i looked don and saw fuel coming out of carb i figured the float got jammed so i pedaled the rest of the way home
but then right in front of my house literaly in my front yard my new/used sprocket broke i was so glad i was home

so after starting the day out with a crippled bike and fixing it it was completly useless

i took the carb apart and cleaned it everything looked in order so i put it back together same problem leaking badly so i took it apart again and found the flange that cuts off fuel wasnt sealing write i fixed the problem by bending the tabe that holds it up and it works fine now

i scavenged a sprocket from another bike and got my bike in business again tommorow ill go get another sprocket to replace the one i stole from another bike

I've re jetted my bike and installed a new air cleaner from Sick Bike. The $12 one. My bike is running really well and seems to be very dependable now that all the bugs are worked out. About all I'm planning for the future is maintenance stuff and as much riding as possible.

I want some nice tires, and maybe a different headlight, but overall I'm pretty darn satisfied.

Just put the bottom bracket conversion unit in,and the three piece alloy crank-
got the crank used on ebay and annodized painted it red- loses some serious weight- I have to take this up and down the stairs- tho down isn't much of a problem!

Speaking of a flip/flop above- Yes, the sproket holes match the diameter and yes it can lock down LATERALLY with a lockring-

but because it's not threaded it still must be held in place to pull the hub- here's a tread I posted recently with a puicture of one I put on a high flanged hub that didn't have any holes in the side before I drilled them- It HAS to be high flanged or you will have to use a rag joint.
The high flanged hub clears a motor sproket that has the six inner disk brake holes. I used a small 32 I had around as a pattern to drill this 41 stock kit sprocket. http://motorbicycling.com/f15/sprocket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-24770.html

Just put the bottom bracket conversion unit in,and the three piece crank-
got the crank used on ebay and annodized painted it red- loses some serious weight- I have to take this up and down the stairs- tho down isn't much of a problem!