If it is a regular split system then you should be able to mount a regular thermostat.... You will need to post model # of the system and what type you have. Regular AC with a Furnace or Air Handler or is it a Heat Pump with an air Handler. Or is this a through the wall Heat Pump Unit. They all wire differently. Basic AC and Furnace......R Y G W C (Furnace) hook to R Y G W C (Stat) Y C from furnace hook to two low voltage wires from the AC. So you will have two wires landed on Y & C at the furnace.If it is a regular split system then you should be able to mount a regular thermostat.... You will need to post model # of the system and what type you have. Regular AC with a Furnace or Air Handler or is it a Heat Pump with an air Handler. Or is this a through the wall Heat Pump Unit. They all wire differently. Basic AC and Furnace......R Y G W C (Furnace) hook to R Y G W C (Stat) Y C from furnace hook to two low voltage wires from the AC. So you will have two wires landed on Y & C at the furnace.

Put a line voltage cooling thermostat on the electrical supply wires that feed the air conditioner. Set the air conditioner on high and the line voltage thermostat will cut-off at what ever setting you set it at.

You don't have to get into the internal wiring of the unit. A line voltage thermostat will interrupt the electricity feeding the unit at whatever setting you choose and turn it on or off. Call your local electrical supply house to see if they have a thermostat to fit your application. I've done a web search and am not sure whether it is 110volts or 230 volts - there are thermostats or either.You don't have to get into the internal wiring of the unit. A line voltage thermostat will interrupt the electricity feeding the unit at whatever setting you choose and turn it on or off. Call your local electrical supply house to see if they have a thermostat to fit your application. I've done a web search and am not sure whether it is 110volts or 230 volts - there are thermostats or either.

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Related Questions:

There is a problem with your self defrosting system which has 3 different parts. You need an ohm meter to test 2 of them. The defrost heater and safety thermostat are mounted to the cooling coils in the freezer behind the back wall panel. The safety is a round disk at the coil top with 2 wires coming out of it. When it is cold the reading across the 2 wires should be like a closed switch. The heaters are in a glass tube near the bottom and should read around 20 ohms. If no reading from end to end of the heater it is burned out. The main mother computer board in mounted on the outside back wall under a square cover panel. Any one of these parts will cause a freezer ice build up. The main board is the most expensive average price $150.

A search for that model number did not yield any results. A brand name would help.That said, if your gas fireplace has a milivolt valve with "TH" and "TP/TH" terminals on the side (for hooking up a remote, thermostat, or switch), then you can use a universal wireless wall system.You can find wireless wall systems for gas fireplaces HERE.

Unplug the dryer's power cord from the wall connection. You will be working around the dryer's wiring, which can be dangerous if the power is connected.

2

Remove the rear cover of the dryer. Most dryers have four screws, one at each corner. Flathead screwdrivers will work for most models, but some require Phillips-head screwdrivers.

3

Locate the thermostat. The thermostat is circular or oval with a wire connection on each side. Remove the screws keeping the wires connected to the thermostat. Set them aside--you will be reusing them to install the new thermostat.

4

Disconnect the thermostat from the wires, then unscrew the thermostat from its mounting bracket. The thermostat will easily pull away from the wires once you have removed the screws. Discard the old thermostat.

5

Install the new thermostat on the mounting bracket. Be sure to tighten the screw enough to keep it secured. Connect the wiring to the thermostat and reinstall the screws to hold the wiring in place.

Hello, sounds like the problem Is a wiring issue, there might be a loose wire in the wall causing this problem with your thermostat, however usually the wires don't get loose in the wall unless they were spliced. Also, make sure the connections on the thermostat sub base are tight to each terminal and that the thermostat is mounted securely to the wall.

Turn off the circuit breaker that controls the air conditioning system.
Turn the thermostat to the "On" position to make sure that all power is
cut off and the air conditioner cannot accidentally operate.
Remove the cover of the existing thermostat and remove the colored wires
from the terminals. Take out any screws that secure the thermostat to
the wall, and remove the thermostat.

Mount the new thermostat on the wall. Feed the wires through the unit,
with enough slack to allow you to make the new connections.

Connect the red wire to the thermostat terminal labeled "RH," "RC" or "R." The red wire carries the power from the transformer.
Connect the green wire to the thermostat terminal labeled "G." This controls the relay that controls the fan. Attach the yellow wire to the "Y" terminal of the thermostat. This powers the main control. Connect the white wire to the "W" terminal. This is the heating control wire.

Close the thermostat's cover and turn the breakers back on. Turn the new thermostat to the "On" position to test it and that would be all.

I hope the above helps. If it is not helpful, please let me know so that I may direct you further.....

Hi, that thermostat should be a wall mount. This heater has only 2 wires and any "Heat only", "millivolt" thermostat will work. Remove the old T-Stat and mount the new one on the wall, only 2 wires and less than a volt so no shock danger, doesn't even matter which wire goes where. Good luck and comment back if you need any help.

If the unit has a wall thermostat, remove one of the wires from the thermostat. If the unit stops it indicates a bad thermostat. If it continues to heat, remove one of the wires coming from the thermostat going to the gas valve inside the heater. If it continues to heat you have a bad gas valve. If the heater shuts off, you have a bad thermostat wire (short).