bob64 wrote:Ccavanaugh, did you ever upload your files for the Gen 2 Spool Holder? I'm interested in using it in my build, although I'd probably face it "inwards" so the filament path is as direct as possible.

Yes... Spool Holder Bracket.stl / step. Just checked and they are there.

Pulled the trigger on a MAX METAL build. This is my first build, so I don’t have the ability to print any parts yet. Would someone be willing to sell me enough parts to get up and running? CCAVANAUGH’s designs look really awesome. Figure I’d need the fsr brackets/pistons, limit switch brackets, and belt spacers. If interested, please send me a PM with how much you’d want for your prints. Thanks!

hav2uo4 wrote:Pulled the trigger on a MAX METAL build. This is my first build, so I don’t have the ability to print any parts yet. Would someone be willing to sell me enough parts to get up and running? CCAVANAUGH’s designs look really awesome. Figure I’d need the fsr brackets/pistons, limit switch brackets, and belt spacers. If interested, please send me a PM with how much you’d want for your prints. Thanks!

First 3d printer? That's a bold move Share your progress once you start with it. It's always nice to see new builds.

hav2uo4 wrote:Pulled the trigger on a MAX METAL build. This is my first build, so I don’t have the ability to print any parts yet. Would someone be willing to sell me enough parts to get up and running? CCAVANAUGH’s designs look really awesome. Figure I’d need the fsr brackets/pistons, limit switch brackets, and belt spacers. If interested, please send me a PM with how much you’d want for your prints. Thanks!

If no one has made an offer to you yet, I would head on over to 3DHubs or MakeXYZ. There are many 3D print shops that will do the parts for you at a reasonable price. You might even find one run by a forum member. They print the stuff for you, and in a few days, it arrives in the mail. Pretty nice, huh?

626Pilot wrote:If no one has made an offer to you yet, I would head on over to 3DHubs or MakeXYZ. There are many 3D print shops that will do the parts for you at a reasonable price. You might even find one run by a forum member. They print the stuff for you, and in a few days, it arrives in the mail. Pretty nice, huh?

Thanks. I had tried that before but the quotes were over halfway to buying a cheap printer. I just tried combining all parts into a single stl and prices are now much more reasonable.

d1rron wrote:Good to know! Also, is there a reason that the FSR brackets are in 3 separate files? I can't tell any difference between them, but I don't want to assume. Lol I guess it doesn't really matter. Thanks again!

The three versions prevent over constraint and allows for dimensional error and thermal expansion. One is "just right", the other is slotted and the the over is simply oversize.

Of the FSR BRACKET-X, Y, and Z files, is there one you most recommend using?

d1rron wrote:Good to know! Also, is there a reason that the FSR brackets are in 3 separate files? I can't tell any difference between them, but I don't want to assume. Lol I guess it doesn't really matter. Thanks again!

The three versions prevent over constraint and allows for dimensional error and thermal expansion. One is "just right", the other is slotted and the the over is simply oversize.

Of the FSR BRACKET-X, Y, and Z files, is there one you most recommend using?

They are designed to use one of each to prevent over constraining and allow the heated bed to expand.

Wiring of machines has always been a challenge for me and very time consuming, hard to make it neat and clean.Glenn at the MakerHive came up with this nifty harness to make it much quicker, easy and neat...Pre-made wiring harness now available for the MAX METAL Framehttp://www.tricklaser.com/MAX-METAL-Wir ... WHARNS.htm

He made a nice wiring install video https://youtu.be/m28d7SCjMxQVideo is helpful for frame assembly also, even with your own wiring. check it out.

@Brian,I may be interested if you made a version that worked with FSRs... including the pistons and such. The poor tolerances on my 3d printed fsr mounts are causing print artifacts due to bed shifting during the print.

Edit: hmmm... maybe I don't need FSRs if the brackets eliminate the need for FSRs...

Last edited by bob64 on Thu Jul 28, 2016 2:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I was just getting ready to design some kind of Onyx holder. I am so tired of having to drill the snowflakes, and finding that the MDF gets impacted and loose after awhile (probably due to getting parts off the glass by jamming a putty knife under them). I'm picking up two of these!

How do you like that LIHUA PSU? How does it compare to the Antec? I'm getting tired of all the connectors on the one that came with my MAX.

I was just getting ready to design some kind of Onyx holder. I am so tired of having to drill the snowflakes, and finding that the MDF gets impacted and loose after awhile (probably due to getting parts off the glass by jamming a putty knife under them). I'm picking up two of these!

How do you like that LIHUA PSU? How does it compare to the Antec? I'm getting tired of all the connectors on the one that came with my MAX.

Thanks.

I have not used that specific PSU in the photo yet, but have not had any issues with several others like it. They are reasonable priced "LED power supplies" from eBay or Amazon, about $30 I think.

I prefer to use 2 of them in my machines now, one 12v and one 24 volt with SSR just for heat bed.

I got this installed okay, but it seems the smaller of the two plywood sheets tends to reverberate when the motors are doing certain things. It can be somewhat loud. If I press on the plywood, it damps almost all of the noise. Is there an easy fix for this?

I got this installed okay, but it seems the smaller of the two plywood sheets tends to reverberate when the motors are doing certain things. It can be somewhat loud. If I press on the plywood, it damps almost all of the noise. Is there an easy fix for this?

I would try silicone caulking where the plywood enters the aluminum. A strip of 2" or so on each of the three sides is what I would try.

I got this installed okay, but it seems the smaller of the two plywood sheets tends to reverberate when the motors are doing certain things. It can be somewhat loud. If I press on the plywood, it damps almost all of the noise. Is there an easy fix for this?

Do you have the mounting plate clamped in the corners with the (6) 4-40 screws and corner brackets? ...either wood ones our metal corner bed mount brackets.

Ah. I figured the kit worked like this:- Mount the triangle in the upper slot, bolt the snowflake to it using spacers- OR, mount the triangle in the lower slot, then use the spacers in the upper slot

I'm thinking that mounting it the second way will give it enough clamping force that it won't reverberate. Thanks!

It can be mounted either way, either should work fine. The (6) 4-40 X 1-1/4" screws clamp upper and lower wood parts onto the center of side rail.In my opinion the snowflake should not be clamped down against the frame side rails, it should be only supported by the 3 points.Works well for me.

karlozh wrote:Hi ccavanaugh, I was wondering if you can post the files for the heated chamber please?

I will 2nd the request, I'm looking for one also

So... my bad, just saw this. I've been slowly picking at this. I'm not happy with the size of it to prevent reduction of print space and still clear the layer fans. I will soon have all the pieces in place to drop the layer fans and convert to a Berd-Air.

The advantage of the Berd-Air is a smaller enclosure and cool air coming in.

Below are a couple of pics of the first generation top bracket. The bottom was similar. The idea is to allow for magnets or heat set inserts for securing acrylic panels much like others have done. It was going to be six sided... 3 large panel and 3 narrow panels.