forcible entry

my ladder company has been having great success going through the lock of tubular dead bolts. we are using the hook of the halligan to sheer the lock face off the doorwith the strike of the flat head then opening with flat blade too. we are trying to use the irons exclusively for conventional and through the lock. has anyone had success with mortise and rim locks with the halligan for through the lock?
How are you doing thruogh the lock? K tool, A tool or no through the lock entry at all?

For through the lock entry, (I assume you mean on commercial, appartments or industrial occupancies) we have had a gread deal of success using the A tool. We own a K tool but many of the locks are set flush with the skin of the door or have shields, and make the K tool attack less than successful. As for using the halligan to pull the cylinder, we haven't tried it, but if it works for you then do it.

On comercial occupancies with glass doors we have had a lot of luck just spinning off the lock with a vise grip pliers.

Most other incidents we use conventional forcible entry with the irons or the rabbit tool.

Originally posted by ADSN/WFLD:For through the lock entry, (I assume you mean on commercial, appartments or industrial occupancies) we have had a gread deal of success using the A tool. We own a K tool but many of the locks are set flush with the skin of the door or have shields, and make the K tool attack less than successful. As for using the halligan to pull the cylinder, we haven't tried it, but if it works for you then do it.

On comercial occupancies with glass doors we have had a lot of luck just spinning off the lock with a vise grip pliers.

Most other incidents we use conventional forcible entry with the irons or the rabbit tool.

Stay Safe

adsn/wfld,

i hear what you are saying with the k tool not getting a bite on the lock cylinder. the main lock that it has a problem with i have found is the tubular dead bolt. this lock as you know has a face that extends about 3/4" from the door and is about 2" in dia. making it difficult for the k to bite on to it. further the lock itself has large hardened screws that screws into the back face which is similar to the front face with either a thumb turn knob or another key face (double dead bolt) the weak piont here is the cast metal that the case hardened screws set into. these locks as i'm sure you know are very common in residential as well as commercial/industrial occupancies. the next time you get the opprotunity try the hook (point) of the halligan above the lock and strike with your axe until driven off the door. (works much like a duck bill lock breaker). then push the back of the lock out of the cylinder and turn with your flat blade key tool.
i'm working on the other locks with a halligan (mortise and rims) any suggestions here other than carrying the other tools would be appriciated.
stay safe,