Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Cooper's Craft & Kitchen Elevates Pub Grub

Signature fish 'n' chips shines

One of the most misused food buzz words these days is gastropub.

A mostly American craft selection

The term was born in the UK in the early 90s when quirky London pub The Eagle started serving high quality food with its craft brews. Nothing pretentious, just decently priced, well sourced fare; dishes detailed on blackboards instead of menus. The trend flourished and naturally found its way to our shores. Unfortunately, the concept frequently got lost in the translation as any ol' restaurant was suddenly claiming the title.

One East Village newcomer that actually is a gastropub is Cooper's Craft & Kitchen. Craft beers galore? Check. Tasty comfort food? Check. Chilled, local vibe? Check.

Restaurateur Tom O'Byrne (Dempsey's, Slainte) transformed the out-of-place former Kurve into a welcoming neighborhood corner. Reclaimed wood interiors were once a Pittsburgh barn. Check out the original farm doors along the back wall while scanning the blackboard beer selection. The focus is on rotating American, even local, craft brews, with 24 on tap and 40 bottle options.

Classic chargrilled steak

Beer also makes an appearance in dishes including the signature fish 'n' chips ($14). It's a stand out. Two meaty hunks of fresh Chatham, MA, cod burst through a crispy IPA-battered golden coating. The pulled pork sandwich ($13), satisfyingly sweet and spicy, is marinated in Dogfish Head Indian Brown Ale.

Even the Cooper burger ($14) is topped with a beer tempura onion ring, but also comes with a half dozen other toppings which don't entirely mesh. I am hearing good things about the Drunken Drumsticks ($9), deep fried in breadcrumbs and coated in lemon and thyme.