Alexander McCall Smith's Cape Town: My Kind of Town

It is a place of astonishing natural beauty. There is also a great sense of being at the end of a continent. At Cape Point, you are at the tip of Africa, which is a wonderful feeling, to be able to see where two oceans meet. The city has an extraordinary history and is culturally complex, which adds to its vibrant nature. I try to go every other year – I usually combine work with pleasure, attending literary events when I am there and doing some writing too.

Anything special I should pack?

Binoculars. Even if you aren’t a bird watcher there will be plenty of interesting birds watching you and you might want to reciprocate.

What do you miss most when you are away?

The light, which is blue-ish and quite extraordinary. It is like no other I’ve seen. The winds and the sea atmosphere make it a very romantic place in many ways.

What’s the first thing you do?

I look at Table Mountain. In the past I have climbed and walked across the top, and explored the national park.

And the best place to stay?

Cape Cadogan (00 27 21 480 8080; capecadogan.co.za), which is a converted Cape house, with marvellous staff and beautiful large bedrooms with balconies, some of which have a view of Table Mountain.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

The Planet Bar in the Mount Nelson Hotel (021 483 1000; mountnelson.co.za). This is the great old lady of South African hotels, a Cape Town institution. Definitely the place to go and soak up the atmosphere.

The best place for lunch?

Moyo at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (021 762 9585; moyo.co.za ). Situated on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, staff will come and paint your face if you like, while guinea fowl peck around your feet. Try the bobotie, a Cape Malay dish made from lentils and raisins, with a savoury egg custard topping.

And for dinner?

We discovered 95 Keerom (021-422 0765; 95keerom.com), which is a wonderful place, really fantastic. The food, which is mainly Italian, is very impressive. The Kingklip, a local fish, is a delight.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

I would suggest anyone drives down the coast, over the mountain to Hout Bay and then drive down to Cape Point, to marvel at the view. Then onto Kirstenbosch Gardens, which are spectacularly beautiful. Next, visit the University of Cape Town campus and also the monument to Cecil Rhodes at Devil’s Peak.

What should I avoid?

The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is a bit touristy, and avoid parts of Long Street. I have been visiting the latter for years, and it has become very backpacker-ish. However, do stop in at Clarke’s Bookshop (199 London Street; 021 423 5739; clarkesbooks.co.za) , which has the most wonderful collection of old books relating to the Cape and Africa. It is my place of pilgrimage.

Public transport or taxi?

Taxis are terrifically cheap, reliable and worth using. There is also a very good train system, with a local line that takes you out to Rondebosch and Simon’s Town. I wouldn’t recommend against hiring a car but I have seen some very aggressive driving in Cape Town.

Manbag or money belt?

Cape Town is, by South African standards, relatively safe. Take the normal precautions that you would in any city but don’t walk around at night.

What should I bring home?

It is quite an arty city, so there are some very good galleries that sell quite nice African art. I also almost purchased some hand-stitched, blue leather shoes for £50 but they didn’t have my size. That kind of item is worth looking out for. If you are going to explore the wine lands just outside Cape Town, try Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek (021 876 2151; lqf.co.za).

Anywhere that isn’t your kind of town?

I think most places have at least some merits. I have occasionally been uncomfortable in a city, but I would hesitate to write anywhere off, quite so much, as there is always something that makes it worthwhile.

Alexander McCall Smith will be talking about his new book, The Limpopo Academy of Private Detection, at the Brewin Dolphin Borders Book Festival (0844 357 1060; bordersbookfestival.org) on Thursday June 13 at 7.30pm.