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Cover story: Are you listening first minister?

This man has something important to tell you. And it can't wait. Jack McConnells criticisms of Quebec ignored a wind of change blowing through the province. Kenny Farquharson in Montreal finds a few home truths in the rise of maverick nationalist Mario Dumont

Schwartz’s or Ben’s? Which is it to be? You can owe allegiance to only one of Montreal’s renowned smoked-meat delicatessens, where the brisket is cured with salt, garlic and spice before being smoked for 10 days and then, finally, steamed. Once chosen, your prejudice must last a lifetime, recklessly pursued regardless of damage to friendship and kinship.

In this piece of Europe mislaid in North America, taking sides is a national duty. To be a neutral is not acceptable. Anglophone or Francophone? The Gazette or Le Devoir? The maple leaf or the fleur-de-lys? Red or blue? Choose your corner and come out fighting. You say tomato, I say tomate.

Downtown Montreal on a chill October morning and there is confrontation in the air. The distorted sound of amplified music and angry chanting is echoing down the René- Lévesque boulevard. Quebecoises protesting at the latest outrage imposed on them from Ottawa,