A Visit to the Villa of San Michele on the Island of Capri

The island of Capri is alluring and capable of enchanting anyone who comes for a visit. One look at the rugged cliff walls and rock formations will convince you that Homer’s sirens do exist and still sing their seductive songs. We learn from Homer’s mythical book, “The Odyssey,” that it was brave Odysseus himself who ordered his crew to stop their ears with wax as they passed. He had himself tied to a mast with strict orders that no one release him regardless of how much he begged. As a result, they were able to escape the siren’s wail and shipwreck on the calamitous rocks.

High above the sea stands the Villa of San Michele in Anacapri. A long and winding road leads upward into the clouds where you will find the white villa, magical and unique in its ancient setting. Built upon the ruined palaces of the Romans, it sits on a ledge at the top of the Phoenician Steps at 327 meters above the sea.

Axel Munthe, a Swedish-born physician, and psychiatrist who attended the Swedish royal family built San Michele at the turn of the 20th century. He completed a dream he had as a young boy, to create a romantic villa that soared above the sea. Made with bits and pieces of two-thousand-year-old Roman artifacts found on his land, it is unique in itself.

Roman tombstones combined with 18th-century furniture decorate the interior. The elegant outer garden is decorated with Cypresses, myrtle and exotic flowers in abundance. An ancient sphinx sits on a remote corner by a little chapel.

Axel Munthe expressed his beautiful vision for his villa with his own words. “I want my house open to the sun, and wind, and voice of the sea, like a Greek temple, and light, light, light everywhere.”

Enjoy some photos of Capri and Villa San Michele on a cloudy and mysterious day….

The Phoenician Steps was once the only connection between Capri and Anacapri at 921 stone stepsThe ever-watchful ancient Egyptian sphinx looks down over the harbor from the garden wall of the Villahouses below the VillaEnchanting views from the VillaGarden loggia

Axel Munthe and his beloved companions

Have you been to the island of Capri? The Villa of San Michele? Please feel free to share your thoughts and/or impressions.

24 thoughts on “A Visit to the Villa of San Michele on the Island of Capri”

We had gone to Naples to visit Pompei, which happened to be closed for the day so decided to visit Capri. I was reading The Story of San Michele at the time so insisted on going there. This was around 1978/79. It was magical – no other visitors there, beautiful summer day and as I walked outside I literally heard a tinkling fountain. The pergola was covered in swathes of wisteria. A totally unforgettable experience. I have been back a couple of times since, but it was not the same.

Years ago one of our Music and Markets Amalfi Tour guests asked if we were going to visit Villa San Michele on our day trip to Capri – and with that lovely lady’s encouragement, we took our little group there, and fell in love! What a glorious place – I do hope you can go when the flowers are in bloom – we’re usually there in July, and each time I just want to stay there forever!

I can just imagine it! Villa San Michele is so elegant…it has all the makings for a glorious garden full of color. We went in April when the rains come. As always, another reason to return! Thank you for you comment…

Pretty much as I remember in 1997, Susan. It was early September, just after the death of Lady Diana. Do they still have the crazy bus drivers for the daredevil ride back down? The highlight for me was accepting the challenge to climb to Tiberius’ Villa Jovis with my daughter. The local guide said it wasn’t worth it! However, our tour director understood the ancient history graduate’s desire and said we had 45 minutes! We reached it in about 20 minutes, ‘glistening’, and had about ten minutes to explore before we returned to our group.
As well as its historic significance, the views were spectacular, and we were had the place to ourselves.

Thank you for sharing this story, Ken! I can imagine you and your daughter were a bit breathless by the time you returned from your hike to Villa Jovis…and yes, those bus drivers are still crazy with their buses packed to the brim with people:)

Capri is gorgeous except when the cruise ships are in port nearby. I’ve visited a couple of times, but Anacapri only once. I took the cable car up to the top, but then didn’t have time for this beautiful villa. I definitely want to return to see it. Thanks for the post!

Hi! I spent a lot of time in Capri last October and I really enjoyed the south side, though Anacapri is quite charming. I have a video of it coming soon 🙂 I was happy to see this post from you because I had never heard of this villa. Did you ever make it to Ravello? Stunning villas up there, too. Happy travels to you!