I have been kicking this around for quite a while, and finally decided to do something about it. Since the old Oval has been coming down, and the Hillclimb has been taken apart, It was time to make a move!The materials have been acquired, and plans drawn up for an 1/8th mile, 1/24 scale Drag strip.I am looking at the trackmate timing system, as it is really the only way to go in my opinion, having used that system on both my oval and road course. My plan is to run races once a month, and hold proxy Drags for anyone interested here on the board. It should also help take the load off the other tracks currently hosting drag races.So, I will be taking construction photos, and posting updates as we get going on this.So look for some heavy noise coming out of the South in the next few weeks! My emphasis will be mostly on Nostalgia type drag racing, Rails, Gassers, AFX cars, Fuel altered's, and early funny cars. I have a high amp power supply already, and will be getting some controllers set up for this. This will be a no glue track, and classes will be based on Available motors in the 40,000 or less RPM range. The main staging area will be detailed heavily for some good photo shoots, the rest of the track surface will be strictly business. Hope this idea appeals to some of you closet drag racers out there! And will bring on some new builds to share with everyone.Thanks

Bob GREAT IDEA !! I can fell my Hart pounding and the ground shaking already.We had a cool radio add back in the day from the "Beautiful Tri City Dragway, Saginaw MI. " Here is a home movie reel from this great Race Way below. (not mine)

The track we run on is no glue like you're planning. We run urethane tires only on it. The track surface is coated with urethane, and it provides pretty good grip. Good enough that if you don't properly glue your tires on, they'll spin off the wheel.

When we run the the 26' track, we have at least 24' for the shutdown before they end up in a box of foam bits.

For timing, we've been using the Slot Dragon system. It works good, but as you know, it's a stand alone unit so all events have to be set up by pencil and paper (it didn't take us long to stop using pens ). We do have a Trackmate system on the way, should have it next week. It's a bit costly, but it should help tremendously when it comes to running events.

Something we did that you may want to think about when you start building. You may want to incorporate a return lane along side your track. During an event, it saves a bit of walking and people tripping over one another. Generally, someone sits at the far end, and places the cars one at a time in the return lane back to the starting line where the racers can pick them up. We keep it "live" at about 4 to 6 volts (depends on the class that's running) with the last 8' or so wired separately with brakes.

Bob, Didn't know that your oval was coming down or that you had disassembled the Dragon's Tail Hill Climb course. We all had fun running on the Dragon (Tail of the Dragon), what made you decided to disassemble it? Glad that Cherokee Point is still up!

Drag racing seems to be the latest slot car racing bug - should be fun in Perry.

Allan, the hill climb came down for two reasons. Weather was not being kind to it,and it didnt get much use. My oval was replaced with a routed wood version in a climate controlled room. The drag bug has always been with me,as i did a Lot of 1/1 dragging all my life. The vast supply of bodies for drag cars is staggering, and it lets me vary my builds.the road course is not going anywhere, it has its own room, and is two much fun. Great thing about slot racing, it can be anything you want it to be, and change up as needed.

Bob

Last edited by btaylor on Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

Well, after some serious cleaning in the shop, I made some progress on the Drag strip. Frame work is 1 1/2/" square tubing. The first section is 16'x 2', the main section will be on locking casters so it can be moved easily when not in use. There will be two more 16' sections that hang from either side, and will plug into each other to set up the track. The total length will be 48' when assembled. I have laid out the design to allow for two return lanes down the right side, that will be running 6-8 volts through a resistor located in the last track section. Had a little fun with the camera while doing this, thought I would share.Let the routing begin!!

Routing has begun! Both lanes and both returns lanes in. Whole surface sanded with 220 grit, all guide grooves sanded, and the the first coat of granite grey semi gloss is down. Power tap holes are ready too. Next up building the second section. Might tape this section first though! I can hear the Thunder already!

Mike, I am making a turn out in each lane to the right. The return lanes are very close together, so the cars will have to single file back to the start. A lot of 1/1 tracks are set up the same way. The right hand lane will make a slight drift to the left lane before making the turnout. I will need that for the long wheelbase rails. All this will be at the very end obviously, and at low voltage. The drivers will still control their cars past the braking area, and into the return lanes. Thanks for the Kudos on this project!