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INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS – Mule 600/610 (4010 Trans skip to pg 4) 1. Place Roof Panel on top of UTV Roll cage and center front to back, and left to right. 2. Using Figure 1 Below – place UTV Roof Mounting Brackets around roll cage bar and using a marker, mark the position of the holes needed in the roof for each Roof Mounting bracket . Figure 1 Copyright 2007 DiamondBack Automotive Accessories, Inc. Page 3 3. Next, remove the roof from the roll cage and using a drill with 1/4″ bit, drill holes using the marks as a guide. 4. Cut (4) 3″ strips of adhesive foam and apply to roof in where mounting brackets are positioned to prevent roof rattling once mounted. Foam should run in the direction of the roll cage as shown in Figure 1 above. 5. Next, reposition the roof on the roll cage according to step 1. 6. Prior to attaching the roof mount brackets, cut the remaining adhesive foam in half and apply one section to the roof in the center of the roof where roof and each roll cage bar meet as shown in Figures 1 above. If additional tape is required to prevent rattling it can be purchased from any hardware store as window sealant foam tape. 7. Next, attach the roof mount brackets according to Figure 2. Use channel locks or pliers to hold top of carriage bolt and turn nut with 7/16″ socket.

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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1. PRELIMINARY: 1.1 Remove the six 6 mm. screws and plastic skid / splash shield from the bottom front of the vehicle frame. (These bolts and plastic skid / splash shield will not be reused snow plow mounting frame installed onto the vehicle.) 1.2 If the vehicle has the Kawasaki optional brush guard installed, it will have to be removed and then reinstalled after the snow plow mounting frame is installed. (The brush guard will fit with the snow plow mounting frame installed first.) 2. VEHICLE MOUNTING FRAME 2.1 Position the vehicle mounting frame (13) under the front of the vehicle so that the six holes (with pipe spacers) line up with the six 6 mm. threaded holes that the plastic skid / splash shield was attached with and the upper plate is through the large oval hole in the vehicle plastic fascia. Fasten loosely using 6mm. x 1.0mm. x 30mm. bolts (33) , 6mm. lock washers (35) and 6mm. flat washers (34). 2.2 Place a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the front cross tube behind the plastic fascia and through each set of holes in the flange of the upper plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of two “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.3 Install a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the lower frame tubes and through each set of slotted holes in the lower plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of four “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″ flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.4 Tighten all the fasteners holding the vehicle mounting frame to the vehicle starting with the 6mm. bolts

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1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure . 2.)Remove the tires / wheels. NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure. 3.) The first thing to do is remove the front cowl and trunk on the bike. You can accomplish this by removing all the bolts (screws) around the perimeter of the cowl and removing some plastic “snap rivets”. To remove the rivets simply pull the center section up and then the rest will follow. 4.)Place a floor jack, or other suitable device, beneath the left side lower control arm. This is to prevent damage to the tie rod or slip yoke boot while disassembling the lower control arm and strut. Using a 14mm socket, remove the two retaining nuts and lock washers on the top of the struts. 5.)Leaning the strut forward toward the headlamp buckets will put the strut in position to allow you to reach over the top and place the strut spacer in place. Install the strut spacer on top of the coil retainer and tightening the nuts. Install the supplied gasket on top of the strut spacer, and re-install the strut assembly

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1. Remove the plastic lower front cover. 2. Remove the two bolts on the left side mud shield that connect to the frame for easier access. 3. Install the winch to the winch mount using the hardware supplied with the winch. 4. Install the winch and mount per the illustration using the provided U-Bolts, flat washers and nuts around the frame tubes and through the mount. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely. 5. Install the roller fairlead to the winch mount using (2) 5/16″ x 3/4″ bolts and 5/16″ nylock nuts provided. (Rollers should turn freely. NOTE: Bottom roller may need to be removed to run wire rope through. 6. Using the instructions provided with the winch, wire accordingly. 7. Reinstall the two bolts from the mud shield. 8. Reinstall the plastic lower front cover. NOTE: For some winches, this cover may need to be trimmed so it does not rub

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers. Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.