Is Rome Really All That?

“One sidewalk cafe coming right up!” and off they go, bumping over the cobblestone streets of Rome. Imagine them: she choosing to experience a life she has, up to now, only dreamed of, temporarily abandoning her responsibilities. And he playing the role of modern day knight, on a Vespa.

She sits in front, laughing and smiling broadly, the wind in her face, as he points out the ancient monuments and tourist attractions. He takes her to the Colosseum and then Rocca’s, a cafe near the Pantheon, the first stop in fulfilling her fantasies of having an adventure.

Cliche? Of course. Wishful thinking? Obviously. And we all know how that film goes.

But I’ve done it. It happened.

Well, sort of.

scene from the film Roman Holiday courtesy Wiki creativecommons

The first time I went to Rome, a lovely Italian man I’d met arranged for a friend of his to show me around on his scooter. “Penny, I hope you don’t mind, I have arranged a surprise for you. I’d like to take you myself, but this is wrong. I can not!” Why didn’t the Roman take me around you ask? The Roman guy was married. Anyway, that’s another story. I had my Roman Holiday, minus the romance.

That was ok with me, I fell in love with Rome instead.

I’ve often wondered if I lived in Rome would I feel the same? Or am I a hopeless romantic hypnotized by a Hollywood version of Rome? Would I move to Rome and discover I’d made a huge mistake?

On that first visit I called a friend in the States and said, “I don’t know how to explain this, but I love it here.” I didn’t expect to love Rome.

Trying to define Rome is like asking, “What is beauty?” Ask ten people and you’ll get ten different answers. I suppose what I like most about Rome is that it is never ever apathetic, ambivalent, or boring.

And yes, Rome is beautiful, blessed with a warm Mediterranean light, ancient ruins, and gorgeous people. The larger than life monuments: the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, The Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, all seem to appear out of nowhere, demanding your attention.

I thought that I would find Rome cold and unfriendly, like many large cities. Interesting for it’s amazing art and history, but dirty, crowded, and noisy. Instead I found that Rome felt like a good friend, one who knows you inside and out and still loves you.

As I watched Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday zipping in and out of traffic on the back of a scooter, eating gelato at the Spanish Steps, flirting and dancing with a handsome man, I relived those same experiences. But the film didn’t end on the back of a scooter for me. On my internal screen I saw myself living in Rome. Enjoying new experiences. Creating new memories in that crazy, beautiful, and exasperating city. No, moving to Rome would not be a mistake at all.

When In Rome!

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Hi Penny,
Nice reflections on your Roman holiday! For me, what sets Rome apart from some of the other major Italian tourist cities is that there are actually Italians living there, so you can walk in a cafe or shop and have some semblance of how it is to be in Italy, not just how it is to be treated like a tourist in Italy. Put that together with the Roman ruins, the churches and monuments, a suave Italian on a scooter, and well…you have your Roman holiday! Or at the very least, there was probably someone else watching you having it that day!

I don’t get why people bash Rome so much—it really is a fantastic city! Like you, I went in with low expectations: It’s just a bunch of ancient ruins surrounded by endless traffic and rude people, right? Definitely wasn’t the case. Loved eating the food, loved walking the streets, and especially, loved staying in Trastevere. Would go back to Rome in a heartbeat!

Rome is a fantastic city but living there is a bit of a love hate relationship. It’s charming, so full of history and culture and great food and wine of course. But it also has some of the worst public transportation in Europe and people and things are never on time. I lived in Rome for two and half years and I would never change it for the world but if you do move and you need to work while you are there just realize you will never be on time and you will come to hate the roman busses :). It’s a fantastic city but it can also be exhausting as well.

When I left Rome two years ago I said I would never live there again but here we are two years later and I am planning my return. It’s a crazy, wonderful, exhausting city and as much as I hate it, I also love it and Rome will always be a home for me.

How fabulous to be living in Rome! The first time we visited in 1990, I said I could easily live there for a couple of years. You’ve really captured the flavour of Rome, Penny and I enjoyed this article. Roman Holiday is one of my favourite classic films as well.

Wonderful to know that Roman Holiday is not just fiction. I’ve been dreaming all of this about Rome. The 2014 goal of visiting is still in my sights, but not yet certain. I can picture myself on that scooter — and posing with that handsome Italian man!

That is one rocking photo of Rome. Love the sky. I’m still working on loving Rome, but the movie The Great Beauty has gone a long way in opening it up to me. Funny how films change how we see a destination.

Sigh-worthy post and photos, Penny! I especially love the one of the sunset. Rome’s magic is in its tremendous skies. And in its less-travelled neighborhoods. I was often surprised by the small-town feel in parts of this big city. Love Rome! How can you not?

I’m a huge fan of Rome. I like the way you’ve balanced the different narrative threads in this piece, and the different perspectives on Rome, to create something a bit more nuanced that gives an angle on the place. Also, kinda jealous that you live there. Although, as I live in Bali, the grass is always greener…