Jeju Noodle Bar is inspired by Korean-style ramen, known as ramyun. Most ramyun is instant, so what Jeju does is imagine the long-cooked soups that those packages of dried noodles might have been based on. This one is made with veal broth and is garnished with raw Wagyu and tender brisket.

Jeju occupies a corner spot in the far West Village. The last tenant was a restaurant named Nighthawks, after the Edward Hopper painting. (The space probably wasn’t Hopper’s model, which some people believe was on Greenwich Avenue.)