I was hoping to get some advice on which implements would be best for me. I am looking at doing some food plots for deer. The land that the plots will be on has never been tilled or plowed. From what I have read, I will want to get a 12" 1 bottom plow, followed by a disk. How big of a disk can I comfortably pull with the cub?

I am also looking to level some trails around my property. For this I was thinking of getting a box blade with teeth. If I go easy, will the cub be able to pull the box blade through fresh grass/dirt? Would there be a better tool for doing what I want?

My cub currently has a mower deck and I would rather not have to remove it every time I want to use the tractor for anything other than cutting grass. I came across this picture posted by "Rick Prentice". Does anyone have any experience doing this? Is he still around?

Stick with designed for Cub implements .. such as the Cub-193 Moldboard plow. Plow the area you wish to plant into feed plots. Then use a Cub-38 Disc Harrow to work the plot. I wouldn't bother with a box blade .. they are heavy and not all that useful for a small area say of 1 to 2 acres. If you want to be a little more particular about the soil a York rake can be used to rake out rocks or you can use what I use .. which is a potato digger in my case a M-H #1 towing a small trailer for the rocks

Many ways to do it ... depends on what is available in your area. A Cub-38 should be about $250.00 US in good shape or you can get a horse drawn one for about 50 bucks ... A Cub-193 should be anywhere from 75 to 175 dollars depending on condition, location and if the coulter/jointer is with it and what the share looks like.

Imagination is the only limit

You can disconnect the mid mount hydraulics and chain the mower up when you want to use the rear drawbar and rear hydraulic lift assembly .. and use any Cub implement with it or horse drawn equipment. To use the mower reattache the mid mount hydraulic assembly and disconnect the rod going to the rear assembly.

Check out the implements in the manuals either the pdf's or on me server at Rudi's Farmall Cubs .. links are at the top.

Here is the method I use that works for me. I have a total of about 2.5 acres in 4 different food plots. Each year in late summer, I plow and disk 1 of the plots and spread oats. I adjust the disk blades into a straight position to lightly the cover the oat seed. I then sprinkle on some purple top turnips and sow white clover. The next year I move to another one and let the plot from the previous year stay in the perennial clover until its turn comes back around in the rotation. It is far healthier for the soil not to be worked up every year. The nitrogen fixed by the clover always gives me a nice green stand of oats and turnips when that turn comes. I never spend a dime on fertilizer or glyphosphate. I mow the clover plots a couple times each year.

You will most certainly NOT plow with a belly mower installed. That's the main reason most of us have more than one Cub!!!

I do not think your Cub will pull a box blade through fresh sod easily, if at all? Just my 2 cents. And keeping the mower on while you change our other implements will not work either.

I use mine for some light food plotting. I use something called the LC Mix and method…basically it's a 45% brassica blend, 45% rye/grain blend, and 10% clover, planted in blocks or in strips….you rotate the rye and brassica every year. Plow and discing will work. I would highly recommend a cultipacker, which your cub will pull just fine.

You may not even need your plow. If you are O.K. using glyphosate you can achieve very nice results by spraying.

You may want to hire someone with a larger tractor to plow and fit the "virgin" ground. A bigger tractor will do a much better job cutting and turning over the thick sod that's developed, and smoothing out the ground. No doubt there will also be heavy roots that will stop the Cub cold as well. After the first year you will have no trouble working the ground with the Cub.

There are some things you can do with the mower "hung" as Rudi recommends, but the mower is too much in the way for plowing. Even if you could manage to get the drawbar mounted in the correct reversed position, the mower deck will catch on the edge of the furrow, leaving you high and dry. It's not a big deal to remove the mower, especially if you're at all creative. You can zip tie the belt in place on the pulleys on the deck so you don't have to figure out how to re-thread the belt later.

Or as the guys like to say, you can use it as an excuse to buy a second Cub!

Thank you all for the advice so far. I will look into the implements that you all had mentioned.

I have another question now. I don't have any of the rear lift assembly. I see on the left hand side of the tractor where it would connect, but nothing after that. How easy would it be to find the rear lift assembly? Or would I be better off doing a home made version (and conside doing a 3pt to have a few more options?)

And I was waiting for someone to say "just buy another" . But I think if I get a second tractor it would be a slightly larger model with a 3pt and regular PTO.

Bigschuss wrote:I do not think your Cub will pull a box blade through fresh sod easily, if at all? Just my 2 cents. And keeping the mower on while you change our other implements will not work either.

I use mine for some light food plotting. I use something called the LC Mix and method…basically it's a 45% brassica blend, 45% rye/grain blend, and 10% clover, planted in blocks or in strips….you rotate the rye and brassica every year. Plow and discing will work. I would highly recommend a cultipacker, which your cub will pull just fine.

You may not even need your plow. If you are O.K. using glyphosate you can achieve very nice results by spraying.

Good luck.

Hey Bigschuss! Ah yes, the LC mix/rotation. I have never used it only because I'm set in my ways, but the most serious deer habitat managers in the country absolutely swear by it.

LC stands for LickCreek, which was a forum name of Paul Knox. He also went by Dbltree on-line. Paul passed away last fall, but he left a library of outstanding information for habitat managers. Do yourself a favor and check out some of his writing. The shear volume of the knowledge he shared will make your head spin.

The rear lift and rod should be easy to obtain. Place an ad in the Vine. You'll need to specify if you have hydraulics or not (manual lift requires extra parts). A 3 pt. for the Cub only allows for use of Cat. 0 tools, and I think you'd be disappointed with what you'd get and the price you'd have to pay for them. Just my opinion.