My WT3 is fairly old and has been reliable. But it's a finicky thing and doesn't show signs of quality. So I think I've been fortunate. Still, I'd also like to build a jog and do higher voltage testing. That's the biggest drawback to the WT3/DATS if you ask me.

Before digressing in to T/S measurement gear, I'm honestly really surprised that nobody seems to have measured their 4Ω Anarchies. How does one use a drive-unit without measuring it first?

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic

***Still, I'd also like to build a jog and do higher voltage testing. That's the biggest drawback to the WT3/DATS if you ask me.

Interesting point I didn't consider. Something like an Art USB Dual Pre can surely put out a fair bit higher voltage than a WT3/DATS.

The FuzzMeasure jig is actually really simple:

Basically just take a twisted pair RCA cable, add 1/4 adapters (or start with an instrument cable), cut it in half, put a resistor on the positive lead, and probes on both. With Euroblock terminals (I hate soldering) it could probably be done in 3-4 minutes. I need to do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Face2

I have a WT3 also, it works most of the time, but it will only work on a Win XP laptop that is ready for the electronics bone yard. It will not work with any other PC or laptop I own.

Wow. Come to think of it, I've only used mine in XP as well (albeit in Parallels on my Mac.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtg90

My wt3 was also really finicky. It died on me last year. Got the new DATS v2 which is worlds better. No more start up delay and works every time.

Curious, why DATS and not WT2? Every indication seem to be that the WT2 is both more accurate and less finicky.

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"In many cases there aren’t two sides unless one side is 'reality' and the other is 'nonsense.'" - Phil PlaitSerious Audio Blog

Before digressing in to T/S measurement gear, I'm honestly really surprised that nobody seems to have measured their 4Ω Anarchies. How does one use a drive-unit without measuring it first?

Why does this surprise you? Virtually no one bothers to measure their DIY subs to confirm they got what they thought they were going to get from the model. They don't characterize their room's gain before building subs. Just build it and tell everyone how awesome the bass is. This seems to be a reoccurring theme.

Why does this surprise you? Virtually no one bothers to measure their DIY subs to confirm they got what they thought they were going to get from the model. They don't characterize their room's gain before building subs.

Subwoofers are different from midbasses. With subwoofers, the room so dominates the performance models don't mean anything for the final performance. I've seen bandpass subs with 60Hz modeled F3 extend below 30Hz when used in multiples!

A midbass, however, needs to be measured to make sure you're getting what you think you are.

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"In many cases there aren’t two sides unless one side is 'reality' and the other is 'nonsense.'" - Phil PlaitSerious Audio Blog

My WT3 also had intermittent problems. I cracked it open and reflowed some ugly solder joints and it seems to be stable ever since. It certainly isn't built with quality in mind. I'm also using an ancient Win XP laptop, which I'm looking to replace soon. I hope it works with my upgrade. If not it sounds like I'll have to run XP as a VM.