So a curvy SV doesn't have a tip over switch, if the bike goes over it should dump its float bowls and thus stop running (though this doesn't always happen). Also if the main fuse is blown bridging the solenoid will not work.

So first questions why are you bypassing the clutch and side stand switch? The side stand switch will only activate with the side stand down and the bike in gear. The clutch switch is a known failure point but can easily be tested.

However assuming that those are not an issue, and assuming that you have lights on the dash board, and the kill switch in the on position, if you press the starter button and nothing happens yet you can start by bridging the solenoid I would suggest looking at the switch.

Following the switch wires back to the loom connector block either behind the fairing or within the headlight depending on if you have the faired or naked model, disconnect the block. Now check the continuity between the wires that feed the button, I'm going to assume you have a Haynes for the wiring diagram as wire colours maybe different depending on your exact model.

If you get no continuity you have a faulty switch, replace it.

If you get continuity check for continuity from the loom side. This is going to be a combination of the clutch switch, CDI, and solenoid connectors. Its just a case of working through the wiring diagram.

Thanks for the info, I'll try it out. I bypassed the stand and clutch switch because those were two simple things to start with (ever heard try what's simple first?) But as I said, I'm new to bikes, so I wasn't 100% sure. I will try this though. Appreciate it. My bike is a naked model, only had the part around the seat, the front "fender" and the tank.