If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

If you ground pin 4 at the pressure switch connector and the pump runs, the relay is good, the pump is ok, and the pressure switch is suspect as failed.

Note.. Its really tucked in there. You need "E.T." fingers to accomplish this task..
It might be easier to unplug the connector from underneath the car, and then insert your grounding wire from top side.

Note.. Its really tucked in there. You need "E.T." fingers to accomplish this task..
It might be easier to unplug the connector from underneath the car, and then insert your grounding wire from top side.

Agreed and good idea.

I find that removing the ARC shroud helps the overall process. First time is difficult, but like so many things on an SC, it's near trivial once you've been around the tree before. The hard part is not breaking the clips on the decades old connector

I'd go after the ignition switch before I'd debug the pressure switch, BTW.

I did test the connector the relay plugs into, and it read 10v DC. So this would mean that there is power getting to the relay?

10v DC usually means a loose/frayed/broken wire or a loose/dirty connector spades. Wiggle and push the test leads around fishing for 12V (battery voltage). It also could be a loose fuse, a loose ignition switch, corrosion on electrical contacts, etc..

most of the time, thats SORT OF (not always) what low voltage is telling you.

Went out last night and wiggled the ignition switch and bingo. Problem solved. Played around some more this morning; pumping brakes, etc., same results. So... buy a new one and install it? Or leave the steering column covers off and wiggle the thing every time I have an electrical issue and hope it solves it?

Also: I noticed that there is a wire hanging loose with part of a broken connector on it, and the other part looks to be fixed to the ignition itself, on the side facing the driver. The broken edges all line up, but the wire doesn't completely reach the ignition and the rest of the connector there. Thoughts? I'll try to post a picture when I get home.

Went out last night and wiggled the ignition switch and bingo. Problem solved. Played around some more this morning; pumping brakes, etc., same results. So... buy a new one and install it? Or leave the steering column covers off and wiggle the thing every time I have an electrical issue and hope it solves it?

Ah, yes, that's the contact that tells the chime if you leave the key in and open the door.

I had to source one off a donor at the wrecking yard. As I recall, you need to remove the lock cylinder to slide it out to the right...other end is obvious, I think. To remove the lock cylinder, insert the key, rotate to 'on', then look underneath for a small round ball - push in on it, then slide the entire assembly out to the right.

Well, we're back in business! Got the new switch, took a little drive, smoked several of the local rods, and all is well so far.

I declined to repair the chime wire for now.it now makes sense that I never heard the chime when the key was still in and I opened the door. Perhaps when I have more time...but then there'll probably be something else! When something else comes up (let's face it, it's an aging car; things will break), I will return, and hopefully in a new thread about a different issue! I'm a little tired of seeing that abs light, though I'll admit I have gained a ton of knowledge from this little issue.

My chime module somehow unplugged itself a couple years ago.. I run the risk of leaving the lights on, but at least it doesn't annoy me with complaints about the seat belts and I can play the stereo with the doors open now.