EN Summary: As far as machine stitching is required, the coat is completed. During the weekend I was able to finish the inner shell, attach it to the outer shell and top-stitch along the collar seam, front and collar edges. I also got a second sewing machine to function as a backup to my Pfaff Ambition Essential and I am sharing my first impressions about this machine, since I’ve used it to perform all these tasks on the coat.

EN: As I have mentioned in my last post, my reliable Pfaff lost her timing in the weekend before the last and had to be repaired, so I was unable to make as much progress on the coat as I had planned last week. I was really beating myself up because I’ve been thinking of getting a backup machine for a while yet I kept procrastinating,… So I felt like it was more than time and opted for a mechanical backup sewing machine and since I’ve been thinking making a pair of jeans soon, I picked the Singer Heavy Duty model 4423 because it has been advertised as a “domestic” semi-industrial machine and its price was really appealing. I would have opted for a second hand industrial if only I had the space for setting it up (or rather, I have a small room functioning as a sewing studio but I rarely use it because I prefer using my living room large table where I can keep an eye out on my son). So here’s what I’ve accomplished during the weekend, using the Singer Heavy Duty:

EN: The previous photo shows the completed inner shell (facings + lining + inner collar); my other machine jammed while I was sewing the lining and the Singer stepped in to complete the job, and rather well in my opinion. The machine is indeed powerful with a more potent engine and being capable of stitching up to 1100 stitches per minute (my Pfaff maximum speed is 750 stitches per minute btw, so not a huge difference here; the industrial machines can perform even faster). The Singer behaved very well with the sheer lining, I just changed the needle to a #12, adjusted the needle tension and I was set. This machine also comes with a presser foot pressure adjustment knob, which is very useful when sewing with different fabric weights IMO. Of course I had to get used to changing the different settings every time I needed a different stitch; on my other machine I just had to press a button. I also missed the reverse stitching button, which allows the machine to stitch backwards on its own; the Singer has reverse stitching capability but you have to pull a lever down while stitching, while on my Pfaff I am able to reverse and still use both of my hands to guide the fabric while stitching. Another feature I missed from the electronic sewing machine was the needle down/up starting position. With the Singer sometimes I had to turn the side wheel if I wanted the needle to end up in the downward position. Other than missing these “bells and whistles” the Singer was really easy to handle, and the speed control pedal is great, allowing you to stitch very slowly if desired, or at full speed ahead. The machine vibration and noise are low, considering it is a mechanical sewing machine. It has a heavy metal frame that gives it stability but I didn’t feel it was too heavy (not much heavier than my other machine at least). The limitations of the Singer Heavy Duty are the sewing space (it’s smaller than the Pfaff and I don’t think there’s an extension table to be purchased for this sewing machine) and perhaps the accessories like different presser feet. It comes with the really basic regular foot, zipper foot, button foot and 1-step buttonhole foot.

EN: I proceeded with stitching the inner shell to the outer shell and while I was at it, I was really able to appreciate the Singer capabilities with handling bulky fabrics and seams; it stitched through all layers with ease and the stitching quality is remarkable. I stitched around the front and collar edges with both layers right sides together and also stitched a little section on the bottom edge of the coat (to finish off the bottom corners the industrial way); I didn’t bag the coat completely because turning a heavyweight coat like this inside out through a lining hole would be a nightmare; I much prefer finishing the lining hem by hand with this type of fabric. After joining both shells and turning the coat to the right side through the large section of unfinished lining hem, I hand basted all edges and pressed. I also hand-basted the neckline seam in the ditch to secure the seams of both layers accurately overlapped:

EN: With the collar in place the coat really begins to look almost finished! The last task performed with the sewing machine was top-stitching close to the collar seam and around the edges of the coat. Below you can see me top-stitching close to the neckline seam ans if you look carefully you'll notice the hand-basting in the ditch. The Singer sewing machine is able to stitch up to 4mm length while the Pfaff can go up to 4.5mm, not a big deal. I used a jeans needle and buttonhole twist on the needle and adjusted the stitch length to the maximum. Again the sewing machine behaved really well.

I also tried the Singer SM on making bras (more on that later ;) )and she behaved equally well. This model doesn't do many stitches, but features most of the stitches I use the most, including the triple zigzag for bra-making and most of the stretch and overcast stitches (in fact I preferred this model to the 4411 because of the stretch stitches, mainly the triple stitch, useful for top-stitching jeans). The only stitch lacking is the lightening stitch (useful but optional for stitching the strap elastics to the back band of the bra forming the scoop shaped back).

And this is it! I probably won't resume my work on the coat until next weekend (I much prefer hand-stitching with natural light and during the week that is almost impossible),... I am also shifting my mood towards spring sewing, you know spring is around the corner... I guess I won't get much wear of this heavyweight coat this year, unfortunately. Thank you all for dropping by!

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