Contrasts of Asprinio and Moscato Giallo

Different and distant aromas,
flavors and structures are the characteristics differentiating the grapes of
this month's tasting by contrast

Tasting two different wines with the contrast technique – that is, examining
wines produced with very different grapes according to an organoleptic point of
view – allows a better understanding of their respective characteristics. The
more the two varieties differ from each other in organoleptic terms, the
greater the possibility of understanding and highlighting their qualities. The
tasting by contrast, however, depends on the goal of the study, because – when
this is necessary – this is also done with similar varieties in order to
reveal the slightest differences distinguishing them. This is very different,
for example, in the case of comparative tasting, that is when two identical
varieties or wines belonging to the same style or territory are examined, with
the aim of highlighting common characteristics. This also includes vertical and
horizontal tasting of wines: the same wine evaluated according to vintage,
territory and wine making practices.

In this month's tasting by contrast, we will examine two varieties being very
different and distant from each other and from every organoleptic aspect,
especially in the olfactory and gustatory profiles. The grapes protagonists of
this month's tasting by contrast are Asprinio – a typical variety of Aversa,
Campania – and Moscato Giallo, typical of Trentino Alto Adige, where it is
also known as Goldmuskateller. These two varieties differ, first of all,
for their olfactory profiles – Moscato Giallo has appreciable aromatic
qualities – as well as for their taste, in which Asprinio has a more intense
acidity. We will also find differences in other organoleptic aspects, including
structure and roundness. Two very different varieties also according wine
making purposes: Asprinio is successfully used for the production of different
wine styles – from sparkling to sweet wines – whereas Moscato Giallo is more
widely used for making table and sweet wines.

Asprinio

Asprinio is a variety having particular characteristics, difficult to find in
other grapes. The name itself (Asprinio means sourish in Italian)
suggests its main quality, that is making sour wines, more precisely,
with a marked acidity, a characteristic allowing a rather wide wine making use.
This particular characteristic also made this variety interesting for the
production of wine distillates. The origins of this variety are not completely
clear, it is however certain it is a very ancient grape present in the
territory of Caserta – in particular in the Aversa area – since remote times.
On this regard, it should be noted that some genetic researches have revealed a
certain analogy with Greco di Tufo, a relationship, among the other things,
already theorized in the past. In addition to its particular organoleptic
qualities, Asprinio is also distinguished by its traditional cultivation
technique. This interesting variety is traditionally cultivated with the
vite maritata method (Italian for married vine), that is by
allowing the vine to climb on a living support, in this case a tree.

This particular method of cultivation – very demanding in viticultural terms –
is notoriously of Etruscan origin and it is still used today, for example, also
in Umbria. The cultivation of the vite maritata requires a completely
different skill and technique than the common forms of cultivation, as
every intervention – from pruning to harvesting – is done using steep ladders.
The vite maritata technique, in fact, provides for the vine to freely
climb on the tree, often reaching heights of twenty meters. It should be noted
that not all Asprinio is cultivated with this method – more modern forms of
cultivation are used as well – but it is proven the best results are obtained
with the ancient Etruscan technique of vite maritata. The wines produced
with this variety are characterized by their marked acidity, moderate body and
absolutely dry taste. The strong acidity and low alcoholic volume of its wines,
make Asprinio very appreciated for the production of sparkling wines, both using
the classic method and the refermentation in closed tank.

Moscato Giallo

Variety typically cultivated in Trentino Alto Adige, the origin of the Moscato
Giallo actually belongs to very distant lands. This variety is supposed to come
from Syria, although some believe this would be a questionable theory. What we
know for sure is that Moscato Giallo – thanks to research carried out on its
DNA – is a sibling of Muscat Blanc, that is Muscat Blanc à Petit
Grains. A bond that, in any case, makes this grape different from the famous
relative, something being also evident in its wines, both in terms of aromas
and taste. Moscato Giallo is mainly cultivated in the north-east area of Italy,
specifically in Trentino Alto Adige, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia. In the
territories where it is present, Moscato Giallo is sometimes called with
specific names and typical of certain areas: Goldmuskateller in South
Tyrol (Alto Adige), Moscato Fior d'Arancio (Orange Blossom
Muscat) in the territory of the Colli Euganei in Veneto.

The famous Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio wine is in fact produced with Moscato
Giallo and, on this regard, it should be noted in this territory is also
cultivated Muscat Blanc grape, used for the production of other wines. From a
wine making point of view, Moscato Giallo finds particular use in the
production of sweet wines from dried grapes, however it is also well
appreciated for the making of table and sparkling wines. From an organoleptic
point of view, table wines produced with Moscato Giallo – that is vinified as
dry – are characterized by a good aromatic quality and moderate structure, as
well as a pleasant crispness. It must also be said dried table wines produced
with Moscato Giallo are not particularly suited for a long aging in bottle, a
characteristic suggesting – in general terms – the consumption during their
youth. A choice, among the other things, allowing the best appreciation of the
good aromatic quality of wines produced with Moscato Giallo and that, for this
reason, are almost exclusively vinified in inert containers.

The Tasting

The color of
Moscato Giallo

The wines produced with Asprinio and Moscato Giallo certainly offer the best of
their organoleptic qualities within the first few years from harvesting. This
means the wines produced with these two varieties are not exactly suitable
for the aging in bottle: for this reason it is better to appreciate them during
their youth. In both cases, the most commonly used wine making technique for
these two varieties – for the production of dry wines – is the use of inert
containers, particularly steel tanks. The wines we will examine in our tasting
by contrast must be produced with this wine making technique, that is vinified
in steel tanks and belonging to the last vintage. We will therefore choose an
Asprinio di Aversa – the most significant denomination for this variety – and
an Alto Adige Moscato Giallo, which on the label could also be referred to as
Südtirol Goldmuskateller. The two wines are served at a temperature of
10 °C (50 °F) in tasting glasses.

Let's pour the two wines in their respective glasses and start our tasting by
contrast from the evaluation of appearance. The first wine we will consider is
Asprinio di Aversa. Tilt the glass over a white surface – for example a sheet
of paper – and look at the wine at the base, near the stem. You will notice a
brilliant and intense greenish yellow color with a very high transparency.
Nuances of Asprinio di Aversa – observed at the edge of the glass towards the
opening – also show a greenish-yellow color. Let's now proceed to the
evaluation of the aspect of Alto Adige Moscato Giallo, by tilting the glass
over the white surface. The color of the wine, observed at the base, is
evidently more intense and darker than Asprinio, clearly showing a brilliant
straw yellow hue. The shade of Moscato Giallo, observed at the edge of the
glass, confirms a straw yellow color. Let's now put the two glasses side by
side: the color differences are evident.

Asprinio and Moscato Giallo make wines with very different olfactory profiles.
The quality of the aromas that can be perceived in their respective wines, in
fact, place Asprinio and Moscato Giallo – so to speak – in two opposing and
distant positions. Asprinio mainly expresses aromas reminiscent of citrus
fruits, in particular lemon, while Moscato Giallo is more clearly placed in the
family of aromatic varieties, this is evidently thanks to the
relationship with Muscat Blanc. In this variety, in fact, it can be
perceived – among the many others – the typical aroma of grape, identifying
the so-called aromatic varieties. It is, of course, one of the many olfactory
perceptions which can be perceived in this variety, but this is the predominant
aroma. In overall terms, Asprinio has decidedly fresher aromas, whereas Moscato
Giallo is characterized by rounder and warmer aromas.

Let's start the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of the wines of our
tasting by contrast by first examining Asprinio di Aversa. Let's keep the glass
in vertical position and, without swirling it, evaluate the opening aromas,
that is the first ones expressed by the wine. From the glass are perceived
pleasant aromas reminiscent of citrus fruits, in particular lemon, as well as
pear and apple. Let's now swirl the glass, an operation that will favor the
development of the other aromas, and proceed with the second smell. The profile
of Asprinio di Aversa is completed with hawthorn, broom, lemon grass,
frequently orange, in addition to plum and sometimes almond. Let's now go on
and evaluate the opening of Alto Adige Moscato Giallo: from the glass can be
perceived pleasing and intense aromas of grape, apple, peach and white
rose. After having swirled the glass and done a second smell, the profile of
the wine is completed with banana, sage, citrus fruit, apricot, lavender,
citrus peel and sometimes, sensations of aromatic herbs, in particular
rosemary.

The organoleptic differences between Asprinio and Moscato Giallo are also
evident in their gustatory profiles. Let's therefore evaluate the attack of the
Asprinio di Aversa, that is, the initial sensations produced by the wine at the
first sip. In the mouth we can perceive the strong sensation of acidity,
practically citrine and directly reminiscent of lemon, as well as perceiving a
light structure and an absolutely dry taste. The flavors of lemon, apple and
pear are clearly perceptible, in which it is the typical acidity to mainly
determine the taste of Asprinio. Let's now take a sip of alto Adige Moscato
Giallo and evaluate its attack. This wine reveals a much more moderate acidity
than Asprinio, but it is clearly perceptible. Even the structure and roundness
are evidently more intense than the previous wine and in the mouth you can
perceive the distinct flavor of grape in addition to apple, peach and banana.

The final phase of our tasting by contrast is about the evaluation of the
sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular
taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Asprinio di Aversa is of good
persistence, leaving in the mouth a strong and intense sensation of acidity and
in which it can be clearly recognized a flavor of lemon, as well as apple and
pear. The sensation of structure is, even in the final phase, evidently light
in addition to an absolutely dry and crisp taste. The finish of Alto Adige
Moscato Giallo is persistent leaving a pleasing sensation of roundness in the
mouth, much less acidic than Asprinio, with a perception of structure clearly
more intense than the previous wine. The flavors of grape, peach and banana are
evidently perceived, just like in the gustatory phase. Let's now taste the two
wines again, first Asprinio and then Moscato Giallo: the considerable
differences in terms of balance between roundness and acidity are evident, as
well as the diversity of structure and flavors perceived in the mouth.

Wines of the Month

Score legend

Fair Pretty Good Good Very Good Excellent Wine that excels in its category Good value winePrices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the countryor the shop where wines are bought

All rights reserved under international copyright conventions. No part of this publication and of this WEB site may be
reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without permission in writing from DiWineTaste.