I build a custom island for my kitchen from birch ply and poplar. It is totally naked minus the filler from the brad holes etc.. I read lots of information about using flowtrol to keep the brush marks to a minimum.

I would like to use SW products. It's close to work and I have had good luck in the past.

I do have a half gallon of oil based A100 exterior primer I could use. Would this be acceptable? I am on a shoestring budget right now, so if I can avoid buying primer I will.

What should I be using for topcoat? I hate working with oil and will be painting in my garage. Temps are dropping pretty low at night but I can keep it 70 degrees.. the catch is I don't want to stir up too much dust. If I can avoid using my heater I will.

I already have purdy brushes and have done trimwork in the past. Just trying to make this look as good as possible. I put a lot of effort into it and don't want to screw it up on the final stages.

I know this very question gets asked alot, but I wasn't sure what to do since I was starting with totally bare wood.

Thanks guys.

michigan girl

09-14-2011 12:03 PM

There is much debate about oil vs latex. Over 30 yrs of painting furniture, trim, cabinets, etc I hate to say that Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo (oil) goes on SO smoothly that brush marks are minimal. Also sanding pads used wet leave no dust. Make sure you remove all residue. If you're going for the natural look and need a clear finish, Minwax makes a latex Diamond finish that I have used on kitchen tables that has never shown watermarks, scratches and takes a beating. Beautiful to work with. I would go to SW online site for info, too. I learned from my father, who is a freak about perfection, that oil on wood does have it's merits. Good luck to you. :thumbup:

240sx4u

09-14-2011 12:05 PM

Thanks! I am not totally opposed to oil if that's the best route to go. I just have a hell of a time cleaning up brushes and with the cooler temps the dry time could take quite awhile.

michigan girl

09-14-2011 12:13 PM

I hear you about clean up but keep paint out of the 'neck' area, lacquer thinner. Attending to your brushes can be therapeutic : ) Dad said most of the work is in prep. Sand, sand, sand. We learn from experience. Try doing a sample piece on left over wood. I just used BM S.Impervo northern Mich. temps were about 55-60. Longer dry time BUT cure time with latex will be about the same. Difference between dry and cure ! : )

240sx4u

09-14-2011 12:14 PM

Yeah sounds like we have the same weather. Thanks!

michigan girl

09-14-2011 12:21 PM

P.S. I used disposable foam brushes on my last Impervo project. try them...

240sx4u

09-14-2011 12:22 PM

Now we are talking! That's what I used to apply the poly inside the cabinets. There was a certain satisfaction to tossing them in the trash when I was finished.

jschaben

09-14-2011 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michigan girl
(Post 727977)

There is much debate about oil vs latex. Over 30 yrs of painting furniture, trim, cabinets, etc I hate to say that Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo (oil) goes on SO smoothly that brush marks are minimal. Also sanding pads used wet leave no dust. Make sure you remove all residue. If you're going for the natural look and need a clear finish, Minwax makes a latex Diamond finish that I have used on kitchen tables that has never shown watermarks, scratches and takes a beating. Beautiful to work with. I would go to SW online site for info, too. I learned from my father, who is a freak about perfection, that oil on wood does have it's merits. Good luck to you. :thumbup:

Hi MG - I have been using Sherwin Williams ProCoat and it does a nice job of leveling out brush marks also. It is a latex. I m painting pine cabinets so have been using BIN as a primer. That stuff is a little pricey and I don't see why the A-100 wouldn't work for you. Zinserr cover stain is oil but will recoat in an hour if you have a short temperature window to work in.

240sx4u

09-14-2011 04:37 PM

Thanks for your input John.

michigan girl

09-14-2011 11:14 PM

Thanks, John. I am always open to tried suggestions ! I will now try yours:thumbsup: on my next project ! Your quote hits the nail on the head about why this site is too cool.

240sx4u

09-15-2011 08:04 AM

John, would you recommend using penetrol with it?

jschaben

09-15-2011 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sx4u
(Post 728590)

John, would you recommend using penetrol with it?

I just started using it. It's my habit not to add anything to an unfamiliar product until I see how behaves for me. The stuff is kinda different in that as soon as I was finished, it appeared I would have brush marks but after about an hour they had all pretty well leveled out. Seems like the key is to make sure there is a heavy enough coat. It is fairly heavy bodied so it doesn't easily run. I did have a few brush marks but I'm not so sure they weren't from the previous coat that I hadn't sanded well enough. Sherwin Williams also has an extender similar to Floetrol. I'm sure if I ever get around to spraying the stuff I will use the additive as I don't think my little HVLP will do the job right out of the can. I really need to try it on a virgin project and see what it does.
I just tried it as I caught a 40% off sale at S-W which put the price point very close to the Rustoleum Painters Touch which I have been using. Comparing the two paints, the S-W leaves a much smoother and, using the gloss white, a much whiter finish. Rustoleum is also a pretty decent paint and, without the discount, not sure the difference in finish is worth the money to me. That, of course, is a subjective observation and is strictly my opinion.
Good Luck. :)

240sx4u

09-15-2011 09:29 AM

Thanks, opinions are what I was looking for! I will give it a shot without the thinner. My concern with thinning is that it would want to run more.

jschaben

09-15-2011 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sx4u
(Post 728590)

John, would you recommend using penetrol with it?

Just caught this - Penetrol is for oil based paint. Floetrol is the latex extender mfg by Flood company.
They also make a bonding additive for latex paint called Emulsabond. That you need to be very careful with. Really would not consider Emulsabond for interior work anyway.