60 you probably have the same opinion I do of this one. i don't actually know how it will sound, but I can say this. Nothing is a waste of time if yo learn from the experience. If it sounds good you will know why. If it sounds bad, you will know it wasn't a great idea. Either way, you will be moving forward and that is never a bad thing.

If your making the "horn" the same length I would give it a go to see what happens. If you were going to shorten it I would not bother.so if it is a half a WO32 to and not scaled down half, its worth a shot.I had to trash my 6" WO 32 because it was MDF and I miss it. My 12 Wo32 was nice as well but as smooth as it was, it was too big and too much.I would build a pair if I had the room for them and the family moved out. So half a WO32 in a 12 would be less than half the output but be nearly as low, is my sad attempt at a guess.Good luck 60, make a Video. I hope it works if you do attempt it.

I made a downsized WO32 and it was the size of the full WO32 except the height. it was only 7 1/2" high on the outside. the first bend was about 1/2 an inch smaller and adapted from there.I would build another and I would still have it in use if it was not made of MDF.I would not mind trying an 8" if I ever get the time I used to have While downsizing all dimensions can work out for some. it does not work out well enough for my tastes. If it does not work shorter and full size its doubtful that it will be any better downsized. But that is not a good enough reason not to try it. ;)

The 6"WO32 build was inspired by 60's WO21.

I would not recommend making a WO32 that small and using only one side, Although you never know.I have thought of it countless times and felt that it may be a waste of time. If I had more time however I would do it just for fun.

I think I'd "mod" it by trying to ebay the 12W7 and up-grading the driver to one with the right electrical/mechanical specs to start with, so the box will work as designed. Then I wouldn't have to make it two inches taller & cut it in half front-to back & wonder why it didn't work... >:( :(

Then... Didn't Steve say the wicked one worked better in vehicles than the wo32?

I think I'd "mod" it by trying to ebay the 12W7 and up-grading the driver to one with the right electrical/mechanical specs to start with, so the box will work as designed. Then I wouldn't have to make it two inches taller & cut it in half front-to back & wonder why it didn't work... >:( :(

Then... Didn't Steve say the wicked one worked better in vehicles than the wo32?

Yes Steve did say that the WO is a better choice than the WO32 for a vehicle. A couple others say other wise. I would lean towards Steve after playing around with the stuff I did.I went for a low Ots, a low Fs as well as a small Vas with success. I felt in the WO32 the volume and the Qts was the most important. In the WO a lower Fs was more important.

I do not agree with the idea that the Decware driver will work better than the 12w7. I have a pair of 12w7's and they perform very well. The big thing about the 12w7's are the extremely low Fs. The Wo32 will like the low Fs as will any other enclosure you want to put it in. The Low Fs will make the sub sound more smooth and fluid while being relatively tight.

Have I made Half a Wo323 with the 12w7 driver in mind? Yes I have, but I took it one step further after completion of the origional horn, and added another 4 folds to the horn which made it almost a 1/2 wave horn. This was OVERKILL and too big to be practical. It DID sound like a movie theater spiral horn from the early nineties though, and had some deep tones like nothing I've ever heard before. When I got done I realised though that it was not much like Steve's origional anymore and I even made some mistakes that may have made it better. I double reinforced the outer wall adjacent from the driver, and this made it possible to use no choke coil and lowered the overall resonant Frequency of the enclosure by close to 11 Hz. Interesting huh?

One mistake I made was that the driver was placed farther down the horn (closer to the beginning) than Steve's and was damped more by the adjacent wall of the horn. This caused it to sometimes bottom out against the wall/magnet when driven hard at less than 31Hz. I also didn't add the second speaker baffle. Reinforcing the seal in the sealed chamber and removing some damping material solved most of this problem.

That is when I added another two layers of Particle Board to the outside of the horn wall thinking that the sound was caused by the horn wall comming apart. Do not do this if you want the horn to play at higher than 50 Hz as it shortens the bandwith the horn plays at and lowers the Resonant Frequency. (Some of you out there might like that, I did.)

I would recomend two things with this enclosure. One use two sided foam tape to seal the enclosure. Two use screws placed every 4 inches or less apart for the entire structure as well as glue. Mine came apart after playing THX's World's Deepest Bass through it for a few hours. This is one of those enclosures that sound louder through a wall than in the same room for some reason, and loudest at the neighbor's house. Maybe the longer waves are cancelling themselves in the room?

Anyway, worth it? Yes. Worth it to make a full double sided Wo32 with 12w7's DEFINATELY!! You will effectively DOUBLE the horn length and it will work like a horn that is twice as long as the half Wo32. Will it work in a car? Perhaps better than the decware driver because the Fs is lower? I don't know for sure though.