Published 4:02 pm, Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main Street in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main Street in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Photo: Melissa Ward Aguilar

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The General Store on Main features new and used merchandise.

The General Store on Main features new and used merchandise.

Photo: Melissa Ward Aguilar

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Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Photo: Melissa Ward Aguilar

Image 5 of 5

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main Street in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main Street in Bandera features a Texas band and country dancing, no matter what time of day you drop in.

Photo: Melissa Ward Aguilar

Kicking back in Bandera

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Known as the cowboy capital of the world, Bandera has more champion cowboys per capita than any other Texas town. But its roots are in the cypress trees. Settled in the 1850s, the town's first industry was a horse-powered sawmill that produced cypress lumber used in roof shingles. Those cypress trees still flank the Medina River with their deep-green leaves, silvery bark and knobby roots popping up along the banks. The Medina views are one thing to check out when visiting Bandera. Here are a few more:

Bandera General Store, 306 Main

The General Store is a little piece of history. The tin-ceilinged building is more than 100 years old and once housed Old Cox Dance Hall. The store's old-fashioned ice cream parlor dates to the '50s and serves malts, shakes and sundaes made with Bluebell Ice Cream. The merchandise is eclectic - some old, some new. Check out the broken-in cowboy boots, old typewriters and leather goods. You'll find all sorts of Texana here. 830-796-4925.

Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon, 308 Main

This honky-tonk is the real deal. As we stepped in off Main late one afternoon and walked down the creaky stairs to the cellar bar, the music kicked up; the band was playing "Miles and Miles of Texas." It took a minute for my eyes to adjust from the bright daylight outside, but lo and behold, folks were two-stepping on the sawdust-covered floor, playing pool and drinking Shiner Bock. The walls of the cellar are lined with photos of the greats - Hank Williams, Elvis and Arkey Blue, the singer-songwriter who owns this delicious slice of country. There's music Wednesdays-Saturdays, with a jam session starting at 2 p.m. on Saturdays; $5 cover. 830-796-8826.

11th Street Cowboy Bar, 307 11th

Cowboys and bikers alike frequent this world-famous country bar. Cowgirls who leave their bras behind get a free T-shirt, so bras of all shapes and sizes hang from the rafters. The outdoor dance floor is air-conditioned; even the country swing dancers hardly work up a sweat. There is always something to celebrate here: Cowboy Mardi Gras, Armed Forces Day, bike rallies or just steak night. 830-796-4849.

Frontier Times Museum, 510 13th

At the Frontier Times Museum, you'll learn that the town gets its name, which means banner in Spanish, from Bandera Pass, a natural passageway through the Hill Country. The town attracted immigrant workers from Poland and an early band of Mormons. Bandera became a staging area for cattle drives up the Western Trail. You'll also see a toe-faced goat and other "curiosities." Hours are 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children. 830-796-3864.

For breakfast or an afternoon pick-me-up, you can't beat the Dogleg Coffee Shop, located in an old bank building circa 1875. The bakery items - scones, muffins and scrumptious coffee cake - are made from scratch. A sign warns "unattended children will be given espresso and a free puppy." 830-796-8080.

Medina River

We stayed at a house on the Medina River, Casa del Rio, that is rented through BackRoads Texas. Several river homes in the Highland Waters area are available for rent, and the Medina here is picture perfect. A typical price is $275 per night for up to six guests. 866-796-0660.