Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors
and booming rock music and you'll see that George Calombaris's
rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous
Greek taverna at heart. Don't go expecting hushed intimacy (even
when you think it'll be quiet, the place is still loud and full),
but do expect zippy service and a fun time. Begin with next-level
white tarama and fluffy pita or prawns swaddled in crunchy, buttery
kataifi with spicy Aleppo mayo. A souva stuffed with chicken and
chips is hard to resist, while traditional options like
slow-roasted lamb shoulder (lifted with an aromatic confit garlic
crust) will have you looking for ways to marry into a Greek family.
Salads and sides blend old classics with modern ideas and should
almost be compulsory, especially when they involve peas, mint and
milky burrata, a perfect sidekick for that roast lamb. And
desserts, like the dark chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet, are
far from an afterthought.