I was devastated when I heard the news that Virginia Plain had closed. All those smoked negronis, bar-side degustation dinners and evenings when I wobbled home precariously in my heels after drinking some fancy wine I couldn’t pronounce. Now just memories. And our relationship, I felt, would never be the same.

Why would you betray me so cruelly, Virginia?

Well, she hadn’t. Turns out it was just a misunderstanding. Because Virginia’s still here at heart; only she’s had a personal reinvention – like any self-empowered lady does after a bad breakup . Over four short days, she’s stripped down, built up, lost the formality and re-emerged as one sassy chic. Probably one with tatts.

From this point on, she will be known as Mercy Bar + Eatery.

Artist Steve Cross has redecorated the interior with graf art and chairs have been replaced with crates. Frontman Mat Beyer says the change reflects people wanting a more casual atmosphere. Behind the bar that means a greater focus on craft beers.

Chef Andy Harmer has rolled out a new menu with an emphasis on bar snacks that are still a little special: roasted porchetta, braised beef cheeks, soft shell crabs. And former VP fans can rest assured: the smoked steak tartare and the ‘pigs trotter, black pudding and scallops’ are staying.