I was wondering if any one could help me. I have a 99 Suburban and I can't get the A/C to blow through the face vent once in a great while it will work but for the most part when I switch to face vent nothing blows out. All the others seem to work fine Defrost and floor. Any Ideas? Is it a vacume system or Electric? or may just a stuck door?

I have an 01 Nissan Pathfinder which the lease will be up in August. Since I only have 2000 miles left on the lease and I wanted a larger vehicle for traveling and towing our boat, I purchased a 2000 Suburban LS w/ 46K miles. Going this route will allow me not to have any car payments when the PF is turned in.

So far I like the functionality of the Sub, but the rattles and overall feel of cheapness are a constant reminder of why I generally avoid GM vehicles. I've put about 2000 miles on the burb and nothing has gone wrong yet. Hopefully it will be fairly reliable, but reading about some of these posts has me genuinely concerned.

I made a big mistake in 2001 when I bought a Suburban w/o 4WD. The truck is just terrible in slick/snowy conditions. Is there anything I can do? Is a 4WD conversion possible? A good idea? Expensive? All suggestions appreciated.

I would imagine that it would be very expensive to convert that thing over to 4WD. But of course, anything can be done with enough money and time! Unless you plan on keeping it for a very long time, it probably will not be worth the bucks.

If you don't have a locking rear end, this would be a much less expensive option and will help tremendously in those slippery conditions.

I have an '89 Suburban and the steering wheel just came up wobbly acouple days ago.Anybody know the problem and how to fix it?Is this a fault that has something to do with the tilt mechanism?Is my steering wheel going to get even more wobbly?

I have another question. On my '89 Suburban the front brakes seem to apply uneven amounts of pressure at times with the left side pulling sometimes and the right side pulling sometimes. It happens more on the left side. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.

I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban that I'm installing a brake controller,but I stop when I was going to connect the wire that goes to the brake switch pedal instead of having one wire that becomes hot when you press the brake pedal this one have a brake switch with five wires. Which is the one I suppose to use?Thanks for any help.

Sometimes called a rear locker, limited slip, traction lock, etc., a device in the rear differential that locks or limits the slippage of the two rear axle shafts. Without some sort of locking device in the differential (known as an "open" differential), when one wheel spins, the other wheel will do nothing. With a rear locker, when a tire loses traction and starts spinning, the other axle will lock up and provide power to the opposite wheel, which hopefully will have more traction available.

Even with 4WD, without some sort of rear locker or traction control system, you will have "no wheel drive" if one front and one rear wheel starts spinning.

The locking rear end was a $295 option on the Suburban. Expect to pay more than that to purchase one and have it installed in your rear end.

My thermometer shows started showing two letters instead of the temperature. It would work off and on for a couple of days then would just show the letters. Is there anyway I can fix it myself? I have found nothing about this in the repair manuals at the library.

I Own a 99' 1500 4X4 Burban w/100,000 miles. The problem that I have is that when going up a steep incline or towing my utility trailer or 2500lb boat the motor starts bucking and the check engine light comes on. I thought I could pull a house with this truck.

I have gone thru 2 sets of cats one under warranty. Have had a major tune up done by the dealer and new cap and wires to no avail. The problem still exists and the dealer now tells me it is in the valve train and I will need to have the heads reworked????????

Anyone with any insight as to what the problem might be please respond before I drive the truck into the water!!!

Have a shop check for any codes that may be stored on the computer. Under load it could be a tranny problem. When was the last time you had the tranny serviced. Towing generates a lot of heat, and that can fry your fluid and cause all sorts of problems. I've heard of a misfire causing this too. But you said you had a major tune up (plugs, wires and the rest I'll assume) so a mis wouldn't be the problem. Unless the didn't replace everything. Did the shop say why they are sure it's in the valve train. I would think that would show up all the time and not just under load.

Depending on your rear end gears, your house would have to weigh 5-6K to pull it within limits ; )

The 6.5 diesel found in the 96 sub was made by the Detroit Diesel divison of GM. Problems are well documented and can be corrected, if not done so already. Trannys are rock solid 4L80 units that are still used today with both 6.0 and 8.1 gas Subs. Duramax is a different beast. It is a joint venture between Gm and Isuzu. Little in common with the earlier 6.5 except for they both burn diesel.

Hi everyone hopefully someone can help me out. I have a 99 2500 suburban with a electronic transfer case. My problem is that my transfer case has developed a leak from the side of the rear housing of the transfer case. Its not a crack but appears that the case is porous. There is a small hole that my mechanic tried to seal with epoxy, but the leak is still there. Any recommendations.

I have a 1998 Chev. Suburban. Both front doors need to be adjusted. The drivers door is the worst. It seems to sag at the latch end. Meaning when it is closed, you can visibly see the door move upward on that end. It is bad enough that there is starting to be a lot of wind noise and even some water dripping through when it rains. The passenger door is not as bad. How can I adjust these?

Also, I have a cooling system leak. There are two hoses that run back towards the firewll ad have a junction. Then they continue to the firewall. Can anyone tell me what the connector is called and the approximate cost?

Seems to be lacking. My 2000 Suburban has 48k miles on it and my drivers door sags too. Worse yet my transmission died this week w/o warning so it is being rebuilt and I should get it back tomorrow. Trans shop says these things are dying left and right, just unacceptable. I won't even get to all the rattles, but I still like it. I just wish GM didn't build everything so damn cheap.

Thanks for the reply. The dealer has checked all the codes and what keeps coming up in misfire in 5&6 cylinders. GM teck bullitin # 1539013 addresses this issue with a fix by doing a valve job $$$$$$$$$. Needless to say I am not in the position to do a valve job at this time. I am planning a trip to NC in the next week and will try it out in the mountains of PA again. I will also take a look at the trany......

I have a 1999 K1500 and have developed a electrical glitch that's driving me nuts! The combination flasher will continuously cycle at will while driving down to road. Once the turn signal arm is activated the 4-ways and turn signals all function normally, however the relay cycles by itself.The dealer has not been able to trace the glitch and the vehicle is not under warranty. The comment from the techs was to turn up the volume on the radio....

I have a 2002 Suburban. I had a trip into the city yesterday and had to pull the outside mirrors in (parking was very tight!). When I pulled in the passenger side mirror, there was a large crack and now the mirror flaps in the breeze. The power control still works. Does anyone know what is involved in fixing it? Is it like the useless fog lamps? My passenger side (sort of a trend I guess) fog lamp bracket snapped. They wanted $85 for the whole assembly (including a new lamp). My husband came up with a fix for that. Can I be as lucky for the mirror? Thanks in advance.

Recently I was parking my 1997 1500 in front of an office building. I was inching forward in the space to be certain that I was in far enough and the next thing I knew I was crashing through the front windows of the building. Unfortunately a woman was walking on the sidewalk in front of me at the time. She lived but was severely injured. Twice since my accident I have noticed surges as I am pulling to a stop. I am trying to find information on other cases of surging. P.S. The police report says that I accidentally pushed the gas pedal instead of the brake but I am certain that was not how it happened. Does anyone have information that could help?

I own a 99chevy suburban. It has 140K miles. The service engine soon light has been on for a few weeks now. I took it over to the local Auto Zone and the code P0453 came up. Can someone tell me what the code P0453 means and what steps to take to fix it??? I know what that code reads, but what are some options?

Recently, our family just bought a 93 K2500 Suburban. It has an overheating problem.After 10 min driving on freeway, the temp goes up to 250 degree. So far, we replaced water pump, hoses, fans, the radiator cap. But the problem still exists. This car obviously has a heater core problem, but I don't think that's the reason for overheating. Did anyone experience similar problems? What else could cause engine overheating? The radirator looks fine and no leakage. Thanks for your time and help.

I am planning to buy a suburban as a second car for weekend trips and Home Depot visits. I have come across a reasonably priced 1994 with 234,000 miles on it. Everything looks good. I just wanted to know if there are people out there driving suburbans with 300K-400K miles on them. Can I expect to drive this 1994 Suburban for another 100K-150K?

Any idea if those are highway commuting miles or lots of interurban driving? Remember that it's not just the engine and drivetrain with all those years and miles, but also the brake system, suspension, etc. A good going over by your mechanic would be worth it.

I have 2001 Suburban 1500 4x4 with 58,ooo mi recently (with in the past month) replaced all 4 tires an had front end alignment done. Now hear an intermittent clunking noise from the front end (L?) when going over bumps/rough road. Otherwise front end is quiet and it drives/tracks well. Any thoughts??? Thanks.