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Sidmouth: Where Jane Austen found love (?)

Sidmouth is now talked of as our summer abode” – Jane Austen to her sister Cassandra, January 1801

Sidmouth: A History, edited by Geof Holmes. Book at this link. Click on image for source.

In the summer of 1801, Jane Austen and her sister and parents visited Sidmouth, a seaside Devon town made unexpectedly popular by a visit from King George III in 1791. The Austens came at the invitation of Richard Buller, a newly-wed vicar and former pupil of Jane’s father, Rev. George Austen.

Jane was happy to escape Bath which, even then, she found confining after the freedom of Steventon; and, furthermore, she liked Mr Buller and was satisfied, she wrote, that ‘he would not oppress me by his felicity and his love for his wife…he simply calls her Anna without any Angelic embellishments.’- Sidmouth, Dawlish, and Weymouth

For a few short weeks there Jane experienced the happiness of new love, although scant proof exists. Cassandra, according to many accounts, made brief remarks about that visit to her nephews and nieces years after Jane’s death. Her memories, according to David Cecil, author of A Portrait of Jane Austen, are not in complete agreement.

All we can be reasonably sure of is that at Sidmouth Jane met a young gentleman who showed signs of being extremely attracted by her. We do not know his name nor his profession, though there is a suggestion that he was a clergyman. We do know that he was handsome, intelligent and possessed of unusual charm; so much so that Cassandra, who hardly ever praised anybody, praised him warmly and even thought him good enough for her sister Jane. – Cecil, p. 97

Jane was apparently as smitten with the young man as he was with her. After only two or three weeks acquaintance, in which Cassandra was convinced that their attraction towards each other had blossomed into love, the young man had to leave to meet an obligation.

It was understood that he would soon come back and join the family again. Cassandra had no doubt that he would then state his intentions and that Jane would receive them favourably. – Cecil, p. 97

Sadly, this hope did not come to fruition. Before the budding lovers could meet again, the young man’s brother wrote to say that he had died suddenly. We know no more about the story. Jane’s letters are missing for many months afterwards – either she was so grief stricken that she was unable to write or her letters were destroyed by Cassandra. We will never know.

We can only surmise that Harris Big-Wither, Jane’s next suitor who did propose (and was accepted one evening and rejected the following morning) did not live up to Jane’s standards for a husband, not in the way that her mysterious lover had. While rich and able to support Jane and her family, Harris lacked looks, intelligence and charm. (“Mr Wither was very plain in person – awkward, and even uncouth in manner – nothing but his size to recommend him” – The Suitor: Harris Big-Wither, JASA.)

Jane’s doomed love affair occurred in a small seaside town in Devon that had increased in popularity after the King’s visit. Until 1800, Sidmouth was a fishing village situated on the Channel, between Lyme and Exmouth, one hundred and sixty-two miles from London. By 1801, Sidmouth offered an elegant ball room, tea-room, and some shops. By the mid-19th century there were seven or eight bathing machines, which were private property. Several rows of good houses were built by the gentry, a numbers of whom made it their summer residence. The market-days were Tuesday and Saturday, with no coaches or waggons going regularly to or from this small resort. In an 1814 panorama, one can see the Georgian verandas and awnings and the fashionable dandies and well-dressed ladies parading up and down the esplanade.

Sidmouth, 1803 engraving. Fronticepiece.

For the Frontispiece the Author is indebted to the friendly and elegant pencil of Hubert Cornish, Esq.; and he feels happy in thus acknowledging his obligations, for a drawing of one of the most interesting bathing-places in the kingdom.

The view is taken at low water, and from Salcombe-hill, which rises on the east side of the town; A part only of Sidmouth is included; but the Beach, and the distinguishing features of its coast, are sketched with fidelity and spirit.

The cliffs of Torbay are seen in the western distance—High Peak succeeds; and Peak-hill, with its signal-post, near which runs the road to Exmouth, exhibits the western side of Sidmouth valley. Peak-house, the residence of Mr. Baruhr, and the elegant cottage of Miss Floyd, are seen above the town. – An Excursion from Sidmouth to Chester, 1803, Google ebook

The town consists of about three hundred houses and, in the census taken by order of Parliament in the year 1803, was said to contain twelve hundred and fifty-two inhabitants. This number, according to the census in 1813, was increased to above 1600. Beginning from what is termed Mill-cross, at the north end of the town, and ending at the beach, its length is about the third part of a mile. For rather more than half of this space it is, principally, one street; the remainder is divided into two branches like the letter Y. In the eastern branch, which seems rather the best of the two, are shops of almost every description, and two of the inns of the town, the London Inn and the New Inn. In the western branch of the main street is the Post-office. Both branches of the Y, as well as the main stem, contain lodging-houses, very various both in size and price. – The Beauties of Sidmouth, 1816

Sidmouth today. Image @ Google Maps

Today, much of the Regency architecture remains and one can readily imagine Jane and her beau walking along the coast, inhaling the bracing sea air and feeling the ocean breezes. Years later Jane mentioned Sidmouth briefly, for William Elliot had visited the town before visiting Lyme and meeting Anne in Persuasion.

Years after her death:

Sidmouth became an epicentre of the craze for cottages ornées – gentlemen’s residences designed in faux rustic style. Look at the thatched roofs on the seafront. When the future Elizabeth Barrett Browning came to Sidmouth in 1832, the house she rented had previously been occupied by the Grand Duchess Helena of Russia. Sidmouth had found its form. – Sidmouth mans the barricades

Sidmouth’s Esplanade today. Image @Google maps.

Another version of Jane’s romance with a stranger has recently surfaced. In Jane Austen: An Unrequited Love, author Andrew Norman asserts that the young clergyman was called Samuel Bicknall. According to the Daily Mail, a British rag, “Not only were her dreams of marrying Sam thwarted, but the match was sabotaged by her own beloved sister, Cassandra, who also lusted after him.”

Oh, dear (and how contrary to our knowledge of Jane’s and Cassandra’s deep love and respect for each other!) I ordered this seemingly spiteful book for my Kindle. More on Mr. Norman’s assertions later!

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13 Responses

As always, Vic, a most interesting look at Jane. So sad to think she was never to find love. Even worse, to think Cassandra might have begruded her the chance for happiness. Perhaps Cassandra had other reasons to destroy some of her letters. But alas, it is all conjecture. Thank you for the look at Sidmouth!

Oohh how exciting! Interesting to read about the place where Jane met her great love, but that more research has been done on her supposed affair is great. Samuel Bicknall…makes sense – perhaps that’s why jos name was confused with Samuel Blackall’s, also a reverend, whom Jane list certainly didn’t want to marry (and the feeling was mutual). Not convinced that Cassandra was her rival, though, as she is said to have promoted the match…but perhaps she wasn’t overjoyed by the idea of being the only spinster sister…

How very interesting! Waiting with anticipation for further news regarding Cassandra’s possible perfidy! (I don’t doubt the power of jealousy, desire or envy to destroy…despite sisterly love and affection).

Thanks Vic, very interesting that Jane had possibly another suitor (to add to the recent notion that her cousin, Tom LeFroy, was also an unrequited love). While one feels some sadness for Jane that as a romantic she never found that one lasting love; it is somehow comforting to know that she likely experienced it perhaps more than once!

Also looking forward to reading more about Andrew Norman’s musings ;-)

Great article, Vic. I know Devon well and have spent some very pleasant family holidays along the coast there, although not in Sidmouth. It can get quite stormy along the coast there. But when the sun shines it is glorious. Devon is great for drinking cider and having clotted cream teas. You could get quite drunk, very pleasantly so, and very fat sojourning in Devon. However, that can be counteracted by bracing walks along the cliffs and strolls along beautiful country lanes or across the wild moors of Dartmoor. (Dartmoor: think Conan Doyles The hound of the Baskervilles.)

Thanks for this post, Vic…and also for the JASA link of the three towns. I was raised in Dawlish from 1949 until I went away to engineering training in 1956, and visited my mother there frequently until she passed away in 1992. I was interested to see that all three towns are described as benefiting from royal patronage, but I have never read anything of that about Dawlish, and would be interested to see more. I have always wondered where the Austens stayed in the town.
The mention of Starcross in Jane’s advice to her niece was also a blast from the past, as we lived in the next village to Starcross from the beginning of the war until the move to Dawlish. The Exe estuary was always one of my haunts as a kid and village we lived in was popularly know as Cock’ood on the Mud.

Love reading about the places of Jane Austen. Thanks for the geat portrait of the small seaside village of Sidmouth. It is quite a mysterious place, isn’t it?. Who was this man that stole her heart there? And for Jane, the sadness she must have associated with Skidmouth. It was certainly a significate place in Jane Austens life.

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Hello, my name is Vic and I live in Richmond, VA. I work in program and professional development at Virginia Commonwealth University, and I have adored Jane Austen almost all of my life. I am a proud lifetime member of the Jane Austen Society of North America. This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me. I do not accept any form of cash advertising, sponsorship, or paid topic insertions. However, I do accept and keep books, DVDs and CDs to review.

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