The general consensus seems to be, that brake fluid (traditional DOT 4)
will dissolve just about any kind of paint/lacquer - so maybe..!?

Click to expand...

Yes, it will. However, brake fluid is expensive and nasty 'orrible
stuff to boot. For stripping a wheel with the tyre still on it has a
certain merit, as brake fluid is designed to be in contact with rubber
and therefore won't attack the tyre whereas a dedicated stripper may.

Disclaimer: I haven't tested DOT 4 as a paint-stripper, so I wouldn't
know if it only works when applied accidentally! :-|

Click to expand...

I'd always use a purpose-designed tool (in this case a pukka stripper)
in preference to a wrong 'un or a bodge. In this case, where the work
is elective and non-urgent, I'd wait until I had a can of Nitromors or
similar ready.

Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...

/claus

Click to expand...

... then you wouldn't leave the nice people who reply to you
the task of manually removing your sig from the end of your posts.
Ask for one for Christmas, or perhaps just save dashdashspacereturn as
the top line of your .sig.

Yes, it will. However, brake fluid is expensive and nasty 'orrible
stuff to boot. For stripping a wheel with the tyre still on it has a
certain merit, as brake fluid is designed to be in contact with rubber
and therefore won't attack the tyre whereas a dedicated stripper may.

Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
mops/compounds available.

One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep. Lacquer protects the
finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
highly polished surface very well for very long. Better to leave a
slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
easier to maintain.

A big question when polishing wheels is always - as with so many
things - where to stop. Polishing rims is one thing, spokes another
altogether. If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted
or lacquered, a clean line between polish and coating is preferable
but not always easy to achieve. I've employed a strip of masking
tape, cut through to the substrate with a /sharp/ blade to the desired
line in the past to good effect.

Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)

Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
mops/compounds available.

Click to expand...

Me and the boy-chic sent his wheels to have them polished after having a
chat with the polisher who SAID he's use a chemical strpiper on the rims
(not the spokes), then titivate them with the mops. Wasn't the fucking case
though. When they came back, they'd been sorely abused with a **** off big
polisher and the rims are all shapes. I spent the best part of a day with
800's wet and dry, followed by 2000's before they were REALLY reasy for
plishing again. I even did the last part by hand. I wish I'd done the lot
myself after seeing 'em.

One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep.

Click to expand...

If the surface is *really really* flat before the final polishing, the time
between Autosol treatments drops by a magnitude though. There are also some
products on the market that claim to reduce the need to use metal polish for
two years (Zoopseal being one). I can't say I've a lot of confidence in them
though, as they don't work worth a shit and at 100 quid a pop for a
"treatment box", they're not cheap either.

Lacquer protects the

finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
highly polished surface very well for very long.

Click to expand...

I spoke to Lechler about that. They say they have a clear coat that *does*
stay put on polished ali, but on further investigation it's just their
commercial lacquer normally used for lorries. I've yet to try that.

Better to leave a

slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
easier to maintain.

Click to expand...

Polish then a quick once over with a GREY Scotch-brite pad. Not red, unless
you want to start all over again.

A big question when polishing wheels is always - as with so many
things - where to stop. Polishing rims is one thing, spokes another
altogether.

Click to expand...

He So true.

If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted

or lacquered, a clean line between polish and coating is preferable
but not always easy to achieve. I've employed a strip of masking
tape, cut through to the substrate with a /sharp/ blade to the desired
line in the past to good effect.

Click to expand...

I now use 3M fine-line tape. It's leaves a razor line and it's easy to
maintain the correct edge when applying it too.

Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)

Click to expand...

But he wouldn't have that wonderful feeling of "Thank **** *that's*
finished".

Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
mops/compounds available.

One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep. Lacquer protects the
finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
highly polished surface very well for very long. Better to leave a
slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
easier to maintain.

Click to expand...

I have once succeeded having a clear expoy powder coat done on some matt
polished ally which was quite nice and lasted the course.

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