The Zellanack boom set is sleeved in a consistent manner. Slide a stir stick
into the ends of the boom and you will find that on one end you will hit the
sleeve 4" inside. That is the mast side of the boom for purposes of building
here. Measure from this end and cut the boom at 23-1/4 inches. Use a needle file
to deburr the edges, inside and out.

The main boom gooseneck kit comes with a black plastic insert that will fit
inside the boom. You can get these from an archery supply for the Easton 2219
arrow shaft if you need some in the future. If you do not have a supplier
nearby, ask Mike to provide some extras as part of your order. The insert is also available in aluminum
at these suppliers. Push the insert into the
mast end of the boom. You may need to seat it with a small hammer.

Push the gooseneck of the aluminum slide mount into the the insert firmly. Drill
a hole with a #50 bit in what will be the bottom of the boom and thread a single
#2 screw into it. Drill deep enough to penetrate the gooseneck but not through
the other side of the boom.

The Easton 2419 Arrow Shaft

Some use this shaft without a sleeve. Generally, this can be considered a 3/8"
shaft and hence, some fittings available in the US will sleeve over it. We have
used the shaft only in a further attempt to reduce the weight of the jib boom on
light air rigs. The yellow boom above is a 2419 with the gooseneck mounted. It
is noted because the gooseneck is loose inside the 2317 insert and requires two
screws to firm the bond.

If you would like to use the aluminum insert to receive the gooseneck, drill the
boom wall and the insert with a #44 bit but not into the gooseneck. Insert the
gooseneck then drill again with a #50 bit. This way you will not have to force
the #2 screw through all that metal when it is not needed.

The main boom is easy in that there are only two of these. Place an insert in
the aft end of the boom. Mark the boom to make sure you will drill down into the
top of the shaft. Prepare and install the #144 eye bolt. Finish with the eyelet adjacent to the boom length.
Because the tap will be through the insert, glue is not needed. Place a dab of
silicone on the threads inside the boom. This will be the guide for
the clew adjustment to the camber.

Measure from the insert at the gooseneck, aft and mark the boom at 16-1/2
inches. Install the #140 eye bolt directly under the boom. This will be the
sheetline guide. There is no backing of an insert here so place a bit of epoxy
in the hole and on the threads when you thread it on. Finish the eye bolt
adjacent the length of the boom.

Vang Mount

This is for the Zellanack vang only. Measure
7" on the boom from the gooseneck. That is on the boom, not from the mast. Place
a piece of blue tape directly on the underside of the boom and mark the
measurement. Use the vang mounting holes to mark for drilling. Drill the two
holes with a #50 bit. You will install the vang shortly.

The bowsie adjusters will be mounted on a single travel line as shown. Study the
bowsies. You will note there is one large beveled hole on one side. That is the
top of the bowsie. Beside it are two smaller holes with a recessed area on top.
A large diameter line is used to create a
travel line for the bowsies.

Before you begin, think about what side of the boat you would like to have all
the adjustments. If you have not done this before then it is suggested the port
side for right-handed folks and starboard for the lefties. This has been an
observation and really not based on research. The photos here will be for the
port side.

Note: The photos are of the previous method of
threading boom travel lines. These photos will be replace at the first refit or
building session. Only the threading method has changed. The diagrams are
current and presently the suggested convention. This method will prevent
previous slipping of the bowsies in higher winds, wild gybes or gusts.

Lay the boom with the port side up and mark two measurements from the gooseneck
on the boom at 11" and 18 inches. Drill these marks with a #50 bit. Thread on #2
screws with washers but do not tighten. Cut a piece
of the Dacron line about 18" long. Thread this through the #1 and #3 holes
of a bowsie as shown (See Floss Threaders).
Slide this down the line and thread on the other bowsie in the same manner. Tie
a small loop in the mast end. Now, check your picture to the drawing above.
Good.

Referring to the Brawner Thread diagram, make a loop by threading
Spectra up through the #2 hole, over the travel line and back down through the
hole. Tie off the ends finishing the loop.

Take the aft end of the Dacron or Spectra line underneath the washer on the 18" screw. Tighten the
screws so that it will just fit under the washer. Pull it as tight
as you can. Do a turn around the screw and hold this tension while you thread
three half hitches to secure the line. You work it out. Tweezers will work fine. However is fine, as long
as that line is very tight. It has to be tight!

The main sheetline will be connected to the forward bowsie during the rigging
with a connector.
The clew line to the aft one will be connected below.

You will note that the bowsies are flush against the boom surface and you can
move them in small increments. They need to be hard to move when pulling on the
loops. Testing here indicates 5-3/4 to 6 pounds is needed to move them. This is
fine for most weather (when wet) that you will encounter.

The Vang and Installation

As you move about the playground and
browse set-ups on other boats, you will see several vang designs. Vangs were
needed on sailboats to keep the main boom from lifting beyond a desired setting
as wind pressures change. Wind pressure will fill the mainsail and the vang can
be adjusted to dictate a preference in twist to the upper parts of the sail. If
the pressure lessens the boom would lower by gravity and change the set of the
sail, usually not to your liking. So, came along the solid vang. Once set, while
at close hauled, the twist of the mainsail would essentially remain constant.
There is always some increase in twist as the wind increases.

The drawback to the solid vang on our
EC12 is that, to adjust the twist, we lengthen and shorten the vang with a
threaded shaft. While this raises and lowers the boom to control the twist, it
also places structural pressure on the boom gooseneck attachment to the mast.
This in turn will effect the bend to the lower section of the mast. This bend
will change the shape of the lower parts of the mainsail. Often this is not
desired.

The Zellanack vang is as good as they
come for this rig. Within the package is an installation procedure. You will note that a
middle range for sail set is sought. This is to allow an adjustment range while
sailing without adverse effect on sail shape due to unwanted mast bend. That is
the quest and caution during the installation process. The
instructions follow a process while the rig is on the boat.

We have found this can
be difficult to manage for a single person. Yes, some are more organized than
others. We have done that and recorded some information that
might be helpful to you. The following is suggested:

Get familiar with the
vang. There is a thumb wheel in the center for adjustment and a lock wheel on
the lower threads. Adjust both aluminum tubes so they are 3/8" from inside the
thumb wheel. This is plenty of adjustment room and you want to keep the span
short for structural reasons. Make sure the gooseneck is aligned correctly
(opposite the boom gooseneck) and the boom mount end is in positioned. Tape the
adjuster and tubes so they will not move while you are fiddling around. Above,
you drilled the holes in the bottom of the boom for the vang mounting. Now,
attach the vang to the boom with screws.

Install the Assembly on the Mast

If you have followed the EC to this point, the mainsail is on the mast and ready
to receive its boom. Slide the goosenecks onto the mast from the base. Do not
force the gooseneck mounts; when aligned they will slide on easily. Set the top
of the boom
gooseneck mount 3-3/4" from the base and set the tiny Allen lock screws with the
wrench provided in the Zellanack kit. Align the vang gooseneck cap screw
(pointing down) 1/16" or just off the base. Set the locking screws.

You can remove the tape from the vang adjuster.

This vang positioning may not be optimum for your set up during the Pre-Tune
section. Movement on the vang mount on the boom will be discussed at that the
time of tuning. Its easy!

Install the Downhaul Bowsie

Route and tie the line from the tack.
(Note: there are two bowsies in the photo. one is for the sail jackline which is
no longer used.) Use the outer hole at the vang gooseneck.
There is not much adjustment needed here. This will control the tightness of the
luff. The different downward tension between a light air setting and wind over
8 is nil to 4 ounces. You may want to mark the downhaul bowsie so that in the
heat of battle you do not adjust the wrong one. It is Murphy's Law, should
you adjust the wrong one, it will not be noticed till you approach the start
line. To Late!

The clew attachment is just a double
loop through the grommet and around the boom. Tie this with a square knot and
overhand finish. About 5/8" off the boom is a good height. Any closer and the
foot drags deeply across the boom and too much allows the clew to swing away
changing the shape of the foot. This loop also allows the clew to travel freely
along the boom as adjustments are made to the camber.

The line attached to clew is passed
through the guide on the end of the boom, through the center of the attachment
loop and tied to the small loop on the rearward bowsie on the travel line. The
clew needs little adjusting movement. Place the bowsie about one inch forward of
the sheetline guide. Tie the adjusting line to the loop so the middle of the
sail foot is about 1/2" off the boom to the side. This is a fairly flat sail
setting and then as you move the bowsie aft, the sail will fill out more. It would
be handy to have three hands but we don't. Tape something in the foot of the
sail to help you out.