Pete GenoveseRenate Conn seems to be enjoying herself at the Custard Hut in Brant Beach.

If you’re looking for the Jersey Shore’s heart, soul and especially its stomach, go to the places where the locals eat. When the Munchmobile, on its annual Down the Shore trip, stopped in Laura’s Pancake House in Highlands, the mayor was sitting in the corner, the sisters who run the cozy cafe were making sure everyone was happy and the two Charlies in the kitchen — Charlotte Hickey and Charlie Thomas — were busy cooking breakfast.

"I got a call about (being on the Munchmobile) two weeks ago," Muncher Lou Bivona was saying tableside. "I went on a diet. All I lost was 14 days."

The Down the Shore excursion, on a splendid, sunshiny day, is always one of the best trips every Munch year. It’s a long day, with temptation at every Parkway exit. Subs, pizza, custard, pancakes, eggs, seafood, bagels, tacos: real Jersey Shore food, in down-home settings. You haven’t lived until you’ve eaten at a refurbished shipping container, just like the ones at Port Newark. Now, that’s Jersey.

LAURA’S PANCAKE HOUSE, HIGHLANDS
Laura Renzo is the Laura, and her sisters, Vera and Cathy, along with sister-in-law, Carol, work at the eight-year-old cafe, strategically located across from Borough Hall.

After getting the complete rundown of Bivona’s tattoos (his daughters, granddaughters, wife and mom all are represented), we started in on — attacked? — breakfast. The regular pancakes, nearly Frisbee-sized, are on the thin side; go blueberry, which are thicker and tastier.

Jody Somers The two Charlies - Charlotte Hickey and Charlie Thomas - work in the kitchen at Laura's.

"The best part were the air bubbles, because the butter and syrup filled in the holes for complete flavor," reported Tommy Castiello, who’s more accustomed to pancakes that taste like "Sheetrock."

Bivona described the French toast as "full of body and solid," but Courtney Han rated it
"average."

Renate Conn liked the artichoke, spinach and tomato omelet, even if the artichokes tasted "canned."

The bacon and egg sandwich, on a nice crusty roll, does that Jersey Shore staple proud.
What’s next after breakfast? Breakfast, part two, what else?

JT’s BAGEL HUT, FORKED RIVER
Confession: JT’s is the Munchmobile driver’s go-to Shore bagel stop, even if the Forked River store is three exits north of him on the Parkway.

The egg bagels are fat and chewy, and if you find a better one, let him know.
Katie Krych loved the everything bagel — "flavorful with a hint of sweetness in the coating; the inside was fluffy and soft" — while Han liked the lox, a lot. Castiello called the walnut raisin cream cheese bagel "awesome — soft and spreadable and so creamy it tasted like ice cream."

Pete GenoveseTom Castiello, Katie Krych and Renate Conn make quick work of the subs at Subs Up! in Brant Beach.

SUBS UP! BRANT BEACH
If your find yourself humming the theme to "Wipe Out" at this sub shack, it’s excusable; it’s on the menu. Boiled ham and choice of cheese — No. 4, if you please. There’s also the Big Kahuna (roast beef, turkey and American cheese); King Kamehameha (turkey and Swiss); and the Topanga (cappicola, pepperoni and provolone).

But let’s start with the tuna salad wrap. The tuna is terrific — wonderfully creamy, surpassingly smooth. Charley would approve. "Outstanding, as opposed to the fake mush served in many places," said the no-nonsense Bivona.

Krych liked the "thin sliced, juicy" meat on the roast beef sub, although the Munchmobile driver, that craver of roast beef, wished it were rarer. Han found the liverwurst "too mushy," but loved the bread overall. "Usually when I order a sub, the bread is gross, like Styrofoam."

Pete GenoveseThe clam strips at The Maine Course were just about perfect.

THE MAINE COURSE, NORTH BEACH HAVEN
This just-opened seafood stop, with two outdoor screened porches, grew out of a trip to Maine by Cheryl Palermo and her husband. One bite of the lobster roll at Bob’s Clam Hut in Kittery got Palermo thinking: "This is what Long Beach Island should have."

The decor is a riot of fish nets, bald eagles, metal cars, paddles and more, but the menu is focused, with lobster rolls, crab cakes, fried or broiled seafood, and other standards.

Castiello found the lobster roll "loaded with lobster," and boasting "great flavor," while Bivona said the popcorn shrimp were "so delicious" he could have eaten five pounds on the spot. Han, "so used to having overcooked scallops in restaurants," made note of the "perfectly cooked"’ scallops here.

Pete GenoveseKatie Krych and Courtney Han enjoy a laugh at The Maine Course.

The calamari seemed too wispy, though, and the accompanying marinara too ketchupy. And neither the clam chowder nor lobster stew were Maine, or Jersey, worthy.
But the clam strips are lightly breaded, infinitely crispy and supremely tasty, and the sweet potato fries addictive.

"This place," Conn said, "is a keeper."’

Pete GenoveseThe Custard Hut in Brant Beach is a real throwback.

CUSTARD HUT, BRANT BEACH
Sure, there are fancier, bigger ice cream stands on the island, but there’s something to be said for seashore kitsch, and the Custard Hut delivers, with a screen-doored, orange-awninged facade and a dizzy interior with aquamarine walls, fish mobiles, license plates and tip jars marked "College Fund" and "Beer Fund."

The Big Dog’s driver loves it when the Munchers elaborate, but sprinkles? Seems like the most familiar ice cream topping is special here. "The rainbow sprinkles were excellent — they didn’t have that heavy plasticized coating," Castiello said. "Didn’t leave residue on my mouth," Krych added.

Pete GenoveseTip jars at The Custard Hut, Brant Beach.

The custard is smooth, creamy and Kohrs-worthy; Krych judged the vanilla "delicious, with a good topping-to-custard ratio." The hard ice cream, though, seems ordinary.

If you groove to the sound of your arteries hardening, play with the Monopoly pizza, loaded with six cheeses (mozzarella, smoked mozzarella, Muenster, cheddar, provolone and ricotta) and packed with flavor.

"The last bite was as good as the first and I didn’t want it to end," Conn cooed. "An infinity pool of cheese," Castiello added.

Pete GenoveseThe Munchers get ready to dig in at Tony Boloney's in Atlantic City.

"I’ve eaten/made crepes a lot before, but these were one of the best — very fluffy and not too thick or thin," Han observed.

There’s an Elvis crepe, with Nutella, but proceed directly to the Priscilla, with apples and wet walnuts.

"Like Thanksgiving Day dessert on the beach," Krych said.

"Lip-smackin’ good," Conn added.

The Munchers were all sugared up and ready to go — home. The Big Dog’s driver would go to sleep dreaming of tuna subs, clam strips and six-cheese pizza. One day, he’ll come to grips with the sprinkles.