Arguably the biggest cooking day of the year is nearly upon us. But have no fear: The Chronicle Food & Wine staff has put together everything you'll need for a flawless Thanksgiving.

Last Sunday we gave you a lovely holiday menu, course by course, along with recipes for cranberry sauces, desserts, our Best Way Turkey and turkey breast, and a guide to choosing wines for the meal. If you missed the issue, it's now online at www.sfgate.com/thanksgiving, along with more ideas from our archives.

Today, we'll head back to basics. Along with our cover primer on gravy, on this page you'll find a reprise of our favorite turkey recipes, plus fail-safe pie crust, pumpkin pie and mashed potatoes.

And throughout the issue you'll discover more great ideas for the meal - plus solutions for that inevitable dilemma: what to do with the leftovers.

Roasting a big bird

Bigger birds can be brined and air dried following the same recipe; try to follow the maximum amounts of time for brining and drying (24 hours). When it comes to cooking, the recipe will work with a turkey that weighs up to 16 pounds.

Birds more than 16 pounds should be roasted at a lower temperature - 350 degrees. Cover the breast tightly with foil for the first half of the cooking time, then remove the foil and baste with stock and pan drippings every 30 or 40 minutes for the remainder of the time. An 18-pound bird should be done in about 4 hours, or when the thigh temperature reaches 165 degrees.

Carving the bird

Here is an easy way to carve the Thanksgiving turkey.

Remove the wings and leg-thigh quarters and cut the two sides of breast off the breast bone and rib cage.

Slice each breast across the grain, into 1/2- to 3/4-inch steaks.

Separate the thigh from the leg. Remove the thigh bone and cut the dark meat across the grain into steaks. If the drumsticks are big, you may also want to debone and cut them. Otherwise, leave them whole.

What remains after carving is the back, breast bone and ribs of the turkey.

Timing the turkey

Using an instant-read thermometer will help ensure that your turkey has cooked thoroughly.

Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the inner side of the thigh (adjoining the drumstick and alongside the breast). It should be near but not touching the bone.

If using The Chronicle's Best Way Brined Turkey recipe, the turkey is done when the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees, no matter the size of the turkey. The temperature will rise a bit as the turkey rests before carving, which should be anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes.

It's helpful to check the temperature of the breast, which should also be 165 degrees. If the breast reaches 165 degrees before the thigh does, cover the breast lightly with foil and continue cooking.

What about the stuffing?

You can stuff a brined bird, but we don't recommend it because the drippings from the roasting bird are salty, and they soak into the dressing. So if you must stuff a brined bird, do not season the stuffing with salt.

Plan on preparing twice as much stuffing, but bake all that doesn't go into the turkey in a buttered casserole dish. You should have at least the same amount of dressing baked separately as will go in the turkey.

Be sure that the temperature of the stuffing in the turkey reaches 165 degrees before serving. The turkey may be done (also 165 degrees) before the stuffing is ready, so remove the stuffing from the turkey and place it in an oven-proof dish, then return it to the oven.

While the turkey is resting, the stuffing will have time to reach the recommended temperature. Before serving, mix together the two batches of stuffing. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Roast Turkey Breast

Serves 6 to 8

Developed by Chronicle staff writer Lynne Char Bennett. The brine is a variation of the one used for The Chronicle's Best Way Turkey recipe.

3 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 quarts water

4 thyme sprigs

1 rosemary sprig, about 4 inches long

1 1/2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes

4 garlic cloves, smashed

1 boneless, skin-on turkey breast half, 3 to 3 1/2 pounds (see Note)

2 to 3 teaspoons softened butter

-- Black pepper, to taste

2 to 3 tablespoons low-sodium chicken or turkey broth, as needed

-- Melted butter, as needed

One day in advance: Brine the breast. In a large bowl, dissolve the salt and sugar in the water; add thyme, rosemary, pepper flakes and garlic. Pour the brine into a heavy-duty zip-top bag or a container just large enough to hold the brine and the turkey breast, and add the turkey breast.

If using a container, weight the breast with a plate if necessary to keep it completely submerged. Refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.

The night before: Air-dry the breast. Remove the breast from the brine; pat dry. Trim excess skin and fat; reserve. Place the turkey on a rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate, uncovered, 12 hours or overnight.

To roast: Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the breast on a rack set in a small roasting pan or a baking dish just large enough to hold it; let sit for about 30 minutes to bring the turkey to room temperature. Smear the butter over the skin; season to taste with pepper. Add reserved skin and fat to the pan.

Roast the turkey for 30 minutes. If needed, add broth to the pan to keep any drippings from burning. Rotate the pan 180° and return to the oven. Continue roasting until the internal temperature reaches 150° on an instant-read thermometer, about 20-30 minutes longer, basting occasionally with the drippings or some melted butter. Remove from the oven and let rest for at least 30 minutes before carving.

Note: You can substitute a smaller, whole turkey breast (2 joined halves) for the larger, single half breast. The smaller breast will cook more quickly, so start checking its temperature sooner.

Nutrition information: The calories and other nutrients absorbed from brines vary and are difficult to estimate. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis.

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Brined Air-Chilled Turkey

Serves 6 to 8, with leftovers

Several years ago, we roasted nearly 40 turkeys in our test kitchen and found a brined turkey to be our favorite . In retesting the recipe the last two years, we found it works best when paired with an air-chilled method. Air chilling may take up some space in the refrigerator, and adds an extra day, but it results in concentrated flavor and juicy meat.

1 turkey, about 12 pounds

For the brine:

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups kosher salt

2 1/2 gallons cold water

2 bay leaves, torn into pieces

1 bunch fresh thyme

1 head garlic, cloves separated, smashed and peeled

5 whole allspice berries, crushed

4 juniper berries, smashed (see Note)

For roasting:

2 tablespoons softened butter + butter for basting

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup chicken stock

Instructions: Remove giblet bag and neck from turkey, along with any extra internal fat and pin feathers. Rinse well under cold tap water. Combine sugar, salt and water in a stockpot. Stir until sugar and salt dissolve. Add remaining brine ingredients.

Ice-chest and bag method: Double-bag two heavy-duty, unscented trash bags (not made of recycled materials) or use a purchased heavy-duty brining bag. Put in an ice chest that is large enough to hold the turkey. Place the turkey in the bag, and pour in the brine to completely cover the bird. You may not need all the brine. Press out the air; if using two bags, close each separately. Keep turkey cold by piling bags of ice over and around the closed bags which will also help keep the turkey submerged. Brine for 12 to 24 hours.

Refrigerator method: Place the turkey and enough brine to cover in a large pot. Refrigerate for 12-24 hours. If turkey floats to top, weight it down with a plate and cans to keep it submerged in brine.

To air-dry: After brining, rinse the turkey and pat dry with paper towels. Place the turkey in a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate, uncovered, 12 to 24 hours. Turn the bird over halfway through drying time.

Quick air-dry method: Rinse the brined turkey and pat dry, inside and out. Vertically place the turkey tail side down on a rack set inside a roasting pan. Place turkey in front of a small fan set to medium for 20 to 30 minutes; turn the turkey to dry the opposite side. Finally, place turkey on the rack, breast side up (positioned for roasting). Continue to dry with the fan, turning the turkey around once to dry the opposite end. The turkey can be roasted immediately.

Roasting: Preheat the oven to 400°. Spread 2 tablespoons softened butter over skin. Sprinkle pepper over skin and in cavity. Tuck wing tips under, loosely truss legs and place turkey on a V-shaped rack in a roasting pan. Tent breast with foil.

Put the turkey in the oven. To ensure that the bird cooks evenly, rotate roasting pan 180° every 30 minutes. Roast for about 1 hour, remove foil and baste turkey with melted butter and add the stock to the pan. Return to oven and roast, basting with pan drippings every 20 minutes, using more butter as needed.

Start checking internal temperature after about 1 hour by inserting an instant-read thermometer in the inner meatiest part of the thigh, not touching the bone. If legs or breast begin to get too brown, cover loosely with foil. Roast until internal thigh temperature reaches 165°. Total roasting time should be about 2 to 2 3/4 hours. Let bird rest for 30 to 45 minutes before carving.

Note: Juniper berries are available in the spice section of some supermarkets and specialty grocers.

Nutrition information: The calories and other nutrients absorbed from brines vary and are difficult to estimate. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis.

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Mashed Potatoes

Serves 6 to 8

4 pounds russet potatoes

1 tablespoon kosher salt + salt to taste

1 cup whipping cream

8 tablespoons butter, sliced

-- Freshly ground pepper to taste

Instructions: Peel the potatoes and cut into eighths. Place in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add the tablespoon of salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, about 12-15 minutes. Drain in a large colander and shake to remove excess moisture.

Meanwhile, warm the cream in a saucepan over low heat, or heat in the microwave for 30 seconds.

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and mash with a handheld potato masher until they reach the texture you like. Fold in the butter and cream and season with pepper and more salt, if desired.

Note: To reheat mashed potatoes, place in a microwave-safe bowl, cover and microwave on high for 2 minutes until heated through.

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Piecrust

Makes one 9-inch pie shell

From Chronicle staff writer Lynne Char Bennett, adapted from the "Fannie Farmer Baking Book," by Marion Cunningham (Alfred A. Knopf, 1984). Use trans fat-free shortening, substitute lard for the shortening or use all butter. An all-butter crust will have great flavor, but may not be quite as flaky.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup vegetable shortening

1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

-- Additional flour for rolling

Instructions: Mix together the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the shortening and butter, and work it into the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender or pulse in a food processor until the mixture resembles fresh breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring lightly with a fork after each addition. Use enough water so the dough holds together.

Form the dough into a ball and flatten the top to form a disk. Wrap the dough completely in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface or between 2 sheets of waxed paper until it is about 1/8 -inch thick and 2 inches larger than your inverted pie pan.

Transfer the dough to the pan, then trim edges to make about a 1-inch overhang. Roll the edge under and crimp decoratively.

Fill and bake according to your pie recipe.

If your filling recipe calls for a prebaked shell, line the pastry with a piece of aluminum foil shiny-side down. Fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights. Bake in a preheated 425 oven for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and beans. Return the pie shell to the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes longer, rotating the pan a couple of times, until evenly browned.

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Pumpkin Pie

Serves 8 to 10

This comes from former San Francisco Chronicle recipe editor Fran Irwin.