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Does anyone have a diagram of where the checkballs go in a 4T60E ? I have a 1995 Buick Riviera and Im replacing the valve body with a updated one and have never been inside a transmission before and I hear these check balls can fall out easily

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The following pages contain information on specific transmission models from the 4T60, 4T60E and 4T65 family(4T40/4T45 and 4T80 information may be in the works, stay tuned). For now, it is NOT an all-inclusive list, but any missing information would be appreciated.

Miscellania:

4T60E Differentials with an asterisk are "fine pitch" final drives. Sun gears, internal ring gears, and pinion gears are NOT interchangeable with other final drives.

4T65E with "IMS" have the newer type of shifter position sensor, called the "Internal Mode Switch", as opposed to the style found on 4T60E and early 4T65E transaxles.

4T65E Stall Speed Info:

these are approximate stall speeds based on the K-factor and TC size. YMMV, but they should give a good estimate as to which ones will stall higher or lower.

So you have significantly modded your engine and now your transmission seems to be the weak link of your build. You have a few options to upgrade the stock 4T45E transmission which can be rather costly, or you can swap to the stronger 4T65E series transmission which seems to be uncharted territory for many. The purpose of this article is to provide a little more insight on what it will take to swap a 4T65E transmission into your 99+ N-body.
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INTRO
This is a guide on how to service your transverse automatic transmission without a lift. All work is done with the vehicle on jack stands. Once the cover is removed the valve body is left attached to the channel plate. This assembly can then be moved to a workbench for easier servicing if valve body work is in your plans. In any case the transmission drive chain, pump, 4th gear assembly and many other parts can be repaired or upgraded at this time.

In the description below the term "channel plate" is used, sometimes the term "case cover" is applied to the same part. The term "cover" applies to the large casting on the driver's side that seals the transmission and holds the engine mount bracket. The term "pan" applies to the oil pan on the bottom of the transmission.

Parts on Hand:

Upgraded solenoids

ATF: 10 qts

Filter

Hard parts (4th hub, shift kit, accumulator upgrade, etc.)

Cotter pin (ball joint castle nut)

Transmission assembly gel or Vaseline

Seals: shaft and lathe cut driver's side case seal.

Special Tools:

33mm/34mm deep socket -- depends on your spindle nut

Engine support beam

Strong T-40 Torx(R) bit

Cold chisel

Heavy hammer/mini sledge

Small & medium pry bars

Large drift pin or scrap cylinder head bolt

Soft mallet

Scrap wire to suspend brake caliper

PREP
Use your 33mm or 34mm socket to break the spindle nut free on the driver's side wheel.
Loosen & reset each lug nut so you can break them free easier once the vehicle is on jack stands.
Remove the induction hoses and air filter from the engine to allow access to the wiring harness and allow clearance when the engine subframe is lowered.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission by pinching the round connector on each side and pulling back. Disconnect the shift cable by lifting it off the ball stud.
Remove the thru bolts from the upper engine