Consistent
Efficient
Compact
seems very well constructed
lots of colors
THE PRICE

Weaknesses:

some dont like the looks of it, but it looks great on my bko

Review:

A few weeks ago I decided it was time to move on from my stock BKO reg and get something better. I asked Travis about the Dye Hyper reg and the sidewinder, and he said they were both good regs, but that the new CP reg actually kept up and surpassed both of them in some key areas. I decided to get the reg and the bottom extender piece for about an extra $7

I decided to give it a shot, the price is right for about $60, and even though I was skeptical when I tested it I was in awe. The reg preformed simply amazing. I took it out of the box and unscrewed it to have a look inside, everything looked thoughtfully put together and well lubed. I hooked up my hpa and started increasing the pressure...the gauge creeped up with NO sticking as my stock reg had done so frequently. The first shot came out fine so I decided to do a rapid fire shoot of about 20-30 paintballs...there was NO visible shootdown and it seemed to have a really good recharge rate.

the reg also comes with a 5 YEAR WARRANTY in the box.

Conclusion:

if you're in the market for a new regulator the new CP reg should definately be amonst the top of your list. Its alot cheeper than most of the new regs out today, looks very well constructed, and can easily outperform a number of competitors. It also comes with a 5 year warranty to boot. Great work CP! I'm glad I bought this reg and saved money over something like a dye or sidewinder.

I think travis put it best when he said "the preformance of a sidewinder at the cost of a torpedo"

One of the ports needs to be blocked with a 1/8 NPT threaded blanking screw, the gauge is then screwed in to the other port.

You should be able to get the blanking screw from any paintball shop, but it would probably be easy enough to get one from a hardware or automotive store. It is basically just a large grub screw - you just need to find one with the correct thread.

Install the blanking screw with some weak Loctite (222, 242 or "Lock and Seal" are fine), or use some PTFE tape.

The gauge ports are literally just threaded holes in the side of the regulator, mounted just below the ASA thread. The holes tap in to the output chamber of the regulator, and so are exposed to compressed air at the pressure that the reg is set to. The holes are threaded 1/8 NPT - the same thread that is standard on the pressure gauges used on paintball markers and air systems. It allows you to fit a pressure gauge directly on to the regulator, to indicate the output pressure. Any hole not in use has to be plugged to stop the air escaping. The ability to fit a gauge is a handy option, as the gauge is a useful way of maintaining the performance of your marker, and making sure that the regulator is functioning properly. However, some people find that the guage gets in the way of where they like to hold the regulator.

CP recommend 0-500psi, and suggest the use of an optional high pressure piston for use over 500psi, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could squeeze 550-600psi out of it. I've never needed more than 300psi, so I haven't tried to find out how high it will go. However, you can increase the maximum pressure (within reason) by adding a shim or extra belleville spring washer (a washer with a slight cone pattern) to the spring pack, to increase the amount of gas pressure required to move the regulator piston, and hence close off the gas supply. Removing washers to allow the piston to close off the air supply more easily would lower the pressure range. The cone washers, set in an alternating pattern, ie )()()()( , act as a spring.

Recharge rate is hard to measure without specialised equipment. Suffice to say that on a pressure gauge, the recharge rate of the CP is as close to instantaneous as makes no difference. You would have to be shooting very fast to see any obvious shootdown.

This design of regulator, basically the same as the WGP regulators, generally handles CO2 quite well. Any problems with creeping pressure etc. can generally be traced to a dirty reg seat seal, which can just be wiped clean and given a light smear of oil, and it should be good as new again. However, it is always best to use an anti-syphon when using CO2 with a regulator. The reg seat seal is generally reversible in these designs, so if the seal does get worn, you can flip it over and use the other side. Again, this will bring the performance back up like new.

Looking at the other common type of regulator, which uses a pin valve to regulate gas pressure, the best one for CO2 use is the Palmers Stabilizer (Fatty or standard will work - the Fatty is intended for lower pressure).

Indirectly at least, yes. The regulator will allow you to change the pressure being supplied to your marker, which gives you a lot more tuning options than if your marker is running off of a fixed pressure HP air system or straight CO2. With the ability to try your marker with different operating pressures (obviously, you have to re-set your velocity at each different pressure you try), you are almost guaranteed to find a more efficient pressure than if you limit yourself to an 800-850psi operating pressure, as is common with HP output air systems, and room temperature CO2. For best results you would also need access to a spring kit to tune your valve dwell.

Generally, you are looking for the pressure that produces the highest velocity from your marker, and then set the velocity from there. You can then try different spring combinations to fine tune the valve dwell.

As a side note, a high flowing regulator can be more efficient than a lower flowing one, particularly if you are trying to put together a low pressure set-up.

Normal maximum output pressure for the CP regulator is 500psi. If your Xtra can operate at 500psi or below, then the CP will be fine. If you need a higher operating pressure than this (and I believe that an unmodified Xtra would need a higher pressure than this), then this will be no good to you. You could increase the pressure range by adding one or two belleville spring washers to the spring stack, but there is only so many you can use before the stack becomes virtually solid, and stops functioning. I think you'd be better looking at a regulator with a higher pressure range out of the box, rather than modifying this.