It’s no coincidence this weeks PRODUCTION KILLER is about cutting ceiling lines. Let’s take a look at what we can do to maximize productivity by removing all the mumbo-jumbo that bog down systems, including the weakest link.

Cutting ceiling lines rank high on my list of time consuming tasks next to painting difficult colors on front doors with a brush and I do both fast. Speaking of the brush—the second most important component achieving maximum productivity cutting ceiling lines, is the brush. You can have the best paint, the easiest to apply, the slickest to move but the wrong brush will kill production with the first load.

As with any fine tuned system, the product and the system need to sync to be efficient. In the case of cutting ceiling lines, we have four main components we need to sync.

the paint

the brush

the cut method

the means to get the longest run from one position

Let’s break those components down

The paint needs to be easy to move, slick and fast and ultimately sets the premise for the cut method used.

The brush needs to be capable of holding a single load of paint to go a predetermined distance by the means in which provide our longest reach. A step ladder for example.

The cut method needs to be precise and executed systematically using Load Balancing. Load Balancing is simply the way you load a brush to go a predetermined distance and the way in which you balance that load to be consistent over that distance. My preferred distance is a run of 6 feet from one position with one load. The 3′ wide ladder allows me to cut a maximum of 7′ in either direction from a corner depending on how far away the step ladder is placed in the corner and which angle. Some paints allow me to make single passes while other paints require a 2 pass method explained in greater detail.

My most efficient ceiling line cutting rates are performed with the Wooster Alpha 3” flat W 4234. This brush features a whopping 15/16” thick brush head. My favorite 2.5” 5/8” thick brush wont get me the same production rates as the Alpha. Not even close. The means in which we get the longest run is performed with a 3’ wide step ladder, allowing me to cut everything you see in the photo from a single position with four loads of paint. Two foot step ladders or buckets are production killers when doing long runs.

One other important thing worth mentioning is how you cut your corners. In the top photo I am approaching a corner as I work to the left. This approach is much more efficient vs starting in a corner because I am able to load balance right into the corner from my single 6 foot run and use a separate load to go down the corner part way and two loads to work out of the corner as I continue to my left. All of my cuts are thought out and executed to go specific lengths-of-runs resulting in pure efficiency. There is no reworking a load or repositioning them. They are laid down exactly where they need to be.

Here is a good example of how to be the most unproductive. Not only does he need 2 buckets to reach, he needs a 3rd bucket to get up to the others. Can you imagine the amount of time wasted moving 3 buckets around the house cutting ceiling lines?

If the job is taped, yes. The 3″ flat brush will give you extremely long runs on basebaord because that cut is typically minimal assuming you will roll down to the tape line which really only leaves a sliver of your brush stoke. If the casings are taped, same thing. The 3″ works great there too. The 3″ brush is very effective cutting inside corners too.

Brian, No. Not the same brush. The Wooster Alpha 3 inch flat is only used for cutting in wall paint. We typically spray trim and doors but when I need to brush them I use the Wooster Silver Tip 2.5″ angular sash or Wooster Alpha 2.5″ angular or Proform Tech’s Picasso 2.5″ angular sash. Depending on the door style – I may use a 3″ flat Benjamin Moore 65-330.