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Note the increased clearance for the amplifier and other various parts. Should help keep the amp in the airflow.

I wouldn't think that will help a great deal, but what the heck, it's easy enough to try. It might be more helpful if it was on the front side, but you've just skooched up the rear a bit. Get back to us in another 20 years...let us know the result of the experiement.

Outstanding! I really like those aluminum tanks and after your comment about it being a good shop project, I've been turning it over in my mind. It would be so much more satisfying to build it yourself. I couldn't figure out how to mold the inside though. Really interesting in watching your project.

I marked off the steel brace and almost started drilling, but it looks so cool I figgered I keep it and get a 90/90 front tire next time. Here's another pic, note my new lawn and garden battery with 365 cranking amps at 32 F. Still have to assemble some of the last items including a ninety degree petcock from Huckys so I can git that darn dipstick out a little easier.

On a good note, the color looks like the old BMW folding lock and might deter some thieves.

I couldn't figure out how to mold the inside though. Really interesting in watching your project.

One approach would be to pull a tooling plaster cast (reinforced with hemp bats) off of the interior of a donor tank; you would have to remove the front and rear cross bars. UltraCal B30 is a suitable low-shrink tooling grade gypsum.

From that you would have a "positive" form to measure from to build a wooden buck, if in fact it might just survive as a one-off forming tool.

"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John WoodenLew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
1963 Dnepr

Just remember, you don't have to weld the thing up solid; tack it together as you go. That way you can always break a panel loose if you want to change something. One other piece of equipment to consider is a big enough bucket, or trough, or (?) that you can quench your panels in after to anneal them. Most metals "work harden" as they are formed. To keep forming it deeper, it's necessary to anneal the metal with a torch and quench it.

i.e. (not my work)

"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John WoodenLew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
1963 Dnepr

Are you going beef it up and to try and use it as a tool, or are you going to take measurements off of it and build a wooden buck?

If you need plaster in a 50# quantity (for example) you can usually get what you need from a local "pottery supply" guy (check yellow pages). A fifty pound bag is probably around $20-25 range. Cheaper than buying it by the pound.

"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John WoodenLew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
1963 Dnepr

The alternative to buying a TIG rig is going to a local community college. Take a class... If you can gas weld, you can learn to TIG. The skills are similar. Or, pay a real pro, there are some guys who are just artistic with that stuff. Me, I have a nice setup & can weld steel just fine, but aluminum is still a bit of trouble. It pays to get a bunch of coupons cut & practice. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

Wood and Iron

Amazing job, 898, no matter what happens next!

Congratulations for sticking with this project - you do beautiful work. Saaaay - maybe you could just use a Dremel tool, hollow out the internal wood, coat insides with POR 15, paint outside to match the rest of the tin. . .gas her up, and GO! No need to find a competent welder or spend money on expensive aluminum.