Life Story of Dolph and Irene Andrus and their family, part two

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DOLPH'S ACCOUNT OF THE WINTER OF 1916-1917 IN BLUFF - CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
I would like to take up the narr ative from page ~2 where it was stopped
in order~q relate the· NAVAJO 'MINE 8TOB.Y:· I had said that Hopkin's photo­graphs
were give much 'publicity etc etc, but something more must be done.
What was to be' done a'nd what we did is quite a s tory, but I still had my
school to teach and attempts 'to make at selling cars . I spent considerabl e
i time in Moab, as much as my school" woul d ,permi t and then I worked Blanding
and Monticello. T;here are two incidents t hat stand out; in my memory,one
in' Moab and one in ,Monticello.
At a · ranch near the , La Sal Ran~h I picked up a wealthy rancher who
wanted to go to Moab,so Itook .himdown and all the way down I kept ask­ing
him ,to drive. He would have none of it. We spent the n i ght in Moab
and were on our'way back , when 'he surprised me by saying, "Let 'me have a
g9 at riding this horse of yours." I had given up.all hope ,of getting
. him to take the wheel. The spot in the road wa::; a good one f or the try.
A level fl,at with only small brush and no' ·ruts in the road. If he ,left
the road no 'harm would result to car ,driver or passenger. He took the
',"wheel land promptly left the road in : low gear ~ , He ; froze to the wheel a'nd
' WO~ld 'n:ot ., change gears~·. We we'~e :going zigzag ov~rt,be f l at. · I reached
for the wheel·tosteer us 'back Qnto the'road . He' roared ,at me,IIKeep your
hands off them reins, if I let this critter get the . best of me I will
never be' abi'e to ride one again." He stayed with it unti l he got the
car back on to the road and then said, ",Now you can have it ." · I turned the
key 'and stopped the motor. No amount of coaxing could induce him to
try again and there were very few spots in the road where I would have
trusted him. No sale.
A:tMont icello I had a very bad moment and lost another prospect . It
had rained nearly all night, but the sun shown bri ght and clear. t he next '
morning. I'got my prospect in the car and we drove up to a new gas
tank that had just been installed the day before. This was quite an
improvement,. Most* of the places where you b ought ,gas , you' drew. it out o f
a 50 gallon steel drum into a bucket and then wi·th a ' funnel you poured
'it into the tank of your car.l was the first car at the pump that morn­ing.
He filled. my tank and we started gown the street . Just as we near­ed
the homebf the prospect the car stopped. It was impossible to star"t .:,
.,·,i ·:E-. ' .. ' He climbed :out· ofthEr'car and ' said., III have work to do. I have no
"';titne ',,f6ruh.:....::.5\lsele·ss buggies:':·'Som~> ~a~r::. 'I:"~"jho:r:"seless· buggi~~. ~pt ' I
call I urn useless. They are not d.ependablE;: ~ -qnd >never . will be. II " ,>
I CheckE?dthe'spark;' and found it 6k~y.': Th~n r took 'off the-bo~i
of the filter just in ·front of the carburetor. It was iull of water. ;r:
turned the pet cock on the bottom of the tank and water came out. No gas
at all. i walked back to the gas pump and asked the man t<? pump me a
gallon of gas in a bucket mat he had. He did so ahd nothing but muddy
. water came out of the pump. Invest,igation: showed that water ' had'- run
from the r06f directly,into his storage tank :; He' had a tank full of muddy
water. No car sale that day. .
We· had a teacher I s Conventi'on ' in Monticello and one of the Speakers
was a professor ' from the . University of ' Utah. He had much to say about
the value of "Nature Walks" with t he school children. After his talk·the
. ,: " ' , ' . ' " ' . teachers were allowed ' t o ask ques,tions and make comments. As usual I
put 'my 26¢'worth into"' the fray. I said in part,"Ican see taking city kids
for a walk in the country,but :taking country k ids for a walk in the
country always enqed in .-P- riot as far as my.experience has .been">
25
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, 26 i
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His repiy to my comment was a gentle rebuke and he used a paraphrase
on that verse " in Proverbs: "Where' there is no vision ,the people per ish . "
"Where there is no ~now l edge,the children run wild" ,he said a nd then went
'on, "I f the teacher has full kI1owledgeo f,~what is being Seen and can ex­plain
what: 'the chi.ldr~n find and bring' to him any group ,can be held with
very ,little trbubl~.~ , i
I invited him ,to ,come to Bluff and take my school for a Nature Walk.
'He accepted my invitation. On the" way down I asked him if he would like
to talk to the parents and townspeople in the evening. He said, thGlt he .
' would be very happy ~Q talk, about -' - ' the beauties of nature in Utah . So
' 1 arranged for a meeting in ,the LDS Church .
The Nature Walk was a riot, I a'm ashamed of the kids for some of the
things th.ey did and I shall not waste your time and mine ' telling' about
them,butwhe,n we went up one of the many little . canyons near Bluff that
are real ' gems and some of the boys brought him some "cliff flowers" we '
called them because 'we knew nothing about them except that they grew un-
' der rocks ' ,in places hard to reach. Sad to relate he knew nothi 'ng about
them eithe'r. Under mY,breath I quoted, "When the leader knows nothing, thos e
iWh~ ;Eqllowhim :know inothi;pg too."" Th~childr~~ w,erequi1;edissapointed~
., .' IJ!he 'meeting in tlle ~:ev:eningwas well ,~atten~~d'" ltrink ."most ,0:( the
p~opl~ 'in town were there;exbept thoserr{en who were out looking after the
' affairs, of the cattle. They calied it "riding the ' range:" Some were out
. trapping · c01otesand ,theywere especially bad that year on the sheep and
in some cases killing very youn'g calves. It was a very interesting talk
and theaudiEm~e listened with interest until he launched into. an , eloquent
tirade against the "evil men who ,set traps for the coyote. "He went on "
"Do you know what they catch in t hose traps? They c atch eagles! II Then
cam~ a vivid account of the fast vanishing "bird offreedom" to end u p •
with'," it will be a sad day for mankind when the clean tooth of the coyote
is found no more on our plains and among our hills." The audience was
quiet and said nothing that n ight, but \th~y poured it on me for 'the next
, few days. '
= "= = = = = . : = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = -- -- -- = = = = = = = = - , i
A nUlIlber of things were done about bringing Monument 'Valley and the
proposed IIighway to the attention of the rp,otoringpU:blic. One was the , ,
biggest mistake 'lever made in ' my whC?le life. I traded ' I rene'sbirthrighL
" ",fQr "a ".mess",af PC?tash., The ':privilege of homesteading is a b irthright and
·:>it .c9tnes ,-otl-lY ' Orice,iri a·lifeti.me • My; ,: ~):y :~e~use , ':was , that : I had ,been in­:
forin~dthait since we had not been cibr~:' t.b."] ii -d~ ' .6'n" it six montbs dut ,,of
each year we would not l?e 'able to obta;i~ < tlti~ '~~ it.: ' AriyWaywe·~ did·, not,
return for ' the summer of 1917 and lost it. What did ,we get in ,return 'for
it.? ,I go i: a t.ripfrom Blufftq Zion National Park i n the, Maxwell with Dr
Hopkins and Torma, Irene and I g~t a trip to the ,Natural Bridges and Monu-ment
Valley behind a bunch of burros. '
. ....•.• . , .. ".,- ! .. .. - • .,.- _ : c .. _._;:._ ._=._. ~_._:,:"""._· . ____ .~· ._·.c· ._ ~" . - _ . , . ,"- : ' --. ": . . ' ... ,. __ ~:-.. ___ _ ': " , :, . • ": _ __ _ . _ . . _ .. ~. , ': , : •.. . + + +'+ + +.+++ + + ++ '.f. "+ +- +-:- +++ '-+ ~+' + : +--+ - +-'- +-:,-+-' + -~+ -::r+- '+-' +--+--++---.
, , A Bluff Chamber of Commerce was organi zed a nd- stationary printed. I ,do
not r~emember all the details now b-q,t, through .'letters to Dr Hopkins and tal k
in the , Chamber "of Commerce atr'ip was planned for the Maxwell bverthe New
Monumental Highway to Zion' Canyon. The Chamber voted $50.00 forexpe~ ses
and Di:: Hopkins agreed to pay $100~06. ' On page 2,8 is a map' Qf the route
taken~ This was "published 'in January 1918 'htimberof the Good Roads Auto­-
mobili~t atong . with a tog-by Dr Hopkins 'and many, photographs .• '
After the map on page 29 I begin my version of the trip. This is now
published, in a limited edition for the first time.'l'hls is :Jurie ' i.967,jus t
50 ye~r$l~ter. (Turri to page 29) " ,
_.. . _------_._.- ..•. -:-;._-_ .. -.... -.- -.. ~--'- --~. " - --' - .. -- - - - ~ .. " ..... - , .. - ~:..... -.. , -... ....:. :.
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cra~king #the "Ma~ il · for · the
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Janej.'stands close to " th~r6il.;t:' ·
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,.,. .... - . --.. ' - . ~uiii&NAr.JiilJu;eHji)(jES.: ': : ..
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•.~ HpPllN~~~)t'~_~~i~ :t:. . · '.
~ .rIlHQ(/s ~f.f!N clI'l'o.lI --.' :~ :: : ~~~MiIAd.
" (1I1iJJIB' F.oHi~-'r \ .'~
. G8.i/Ni:j· Ciri';iloil >~:· ;:., J.~j~r.'!'"
MOAlIJNEN . . ' '. ,. ••. -j~~~~~~~
(JJ
N
DOL,PH'S ACCOUNT OF THE MON~NTAL HIGHWAY TRIP JUNE 1917.
' I think that I should begip this s ,tor:y with some information about
the preparations that were made and the things that'Vle carried in , the
car. The ' fiI:lst step' was , to ' pers'uade :trene'~to stay and take car of the '
Post Office . Th,ere is ,a bubble in my memory tank at this point. I have
noide'a how it ' was done. It certainly was a stouthearted thing for her
; 1;0 do and sl1e should9'et credit fo,~ the trip if there is any credit ,due
for such,a wild adventure. ", , '
,Here is a partial list of the things we took wit h us: Spare p~rtq for
every part of the car , in ' danger of wearing out or br'eaking,extra,front
anQ.rear springs ,'extracarbureter ,.two spare tires; box of patches, boots,
(and 'inner tubes ,twofivega~lon , cans for extra gas, axe" shovel,pick etc. '
Thepr'ize piece . of equiplIlent 'Was' a device called , THE PULt-U-OUT. Dr '
,Hopkins in~isted em calling it the PULL-ME-UP. It consisted of a drum
, turned by ~' crank.' The drum wound up the cable of a block and ta:ckle.
One end of the cable was to be fastened to the front axle of the, car ~md
,the other ~ridfastenedto three steel stakes ' driven into the ground. '
This w~sfor bad places that we might encounter wh~re there was no·help. '
:. ,! " ~r . R.aplee:' sentChi::rbired' man wit1iteam and! ,buckboard ' to help us as ' ,',
f'a·r ; cis KayeIltaJHe' Hdt , ah~ad';'; 6f : us _ and ~would m~e t u,sat '7the Oil Camp
' as previous e;q,erience had ' sh6wn. that 'we ~ouidgo · th~t : far without '
?elp. A M,r H9-.rr 1. son went along on his horse : so that if a' question of
the route to ' take ' came up he could ride aheadand ,s-cout a way to go~
He a 'lso wEmtas far as Kayerita • ,He also went ahead to meet us at the '
Oil Camp which was also called Douglas Camp. We had no trouble making
the 28 miies to Mexican Hat: We spent some, time driving around ' irithe
Gradeno'f the Gods,agroup of smaller monuments north of Mexican Hat.
We returned to , spend' the night at Mr Raplee's House on the banks of
the San': Juan River near Mexican Hat (Goodridge) • During the Oil Boom of
1909.'Mr Raplee had buita: very fine rock house, too near .to the San
Juan River • ,The Indians warned him 'and pointed to 'the marks on the
rocks , left by the ·highwater 'in their life'time. He ignored the warning
' arid the house was completed,ready to move ' into - then came the high
water. Tlie house was so well built that j:t was ' not, washed away, but was
almost buried in sand. ' One room had be~n excavated and in ,this we spent'
the night. , ' , " , , ' ,' , ' "
':' . ~ H~ri= we.:p~d ,durfiist rfeedofspare parts. The bolts that held the
-;st'eari~gi<nusk+est,'othe-' f:t"onE-' axle,: .\\1.e'rf~:. s'9 ;~adry: worn that Ith.o,ught
it best t'oreplacethem. The ne'Xt inornil}i ~we :'w~reearly at D.ouglas "
Camp and with the help of the team oversornes'andtbat had stopped us ,
' on our previous trip,we were soon at the Mittens. Here Hopkins, borrowed
, the hOrse and had , his picture taken in , front of the Hogan (See 'page 18.11)
' for previous , photo of Hogan. The team and horse went on to Kayenta as
, we' would ' ~eedno , further help until we reached Laguna Creek,just this
side , of KaYl?nta • They would wait' for us th~rewhile we drove down to
Organ Rock. This famous rock Inust be seen and photographed. The road
was good and we sometimesrea~hedt~e terrific speed of 25 miles per ,
hour~ , ' . " " ,
. . . . .
We drove to within a 45' minute hike to the ,Organ Rock. I seated my­,
self at the ',' console" of the great instruInemt and played, well, I hav~
forgqttenwhatI,played-but Dr Hopkins took my> picture as I·w3nt ' through
'the IT\oj:ions of, playing. I never saw it. ; I guess ' I split the film. '
, ,We camped onOljeto Creek that 'night:. , ,A very pleasant old Navajo
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came into our camp.
We did not get a pict­u
r e of, him as it was
after dark :when he .'
, ,came. , Tllephotb' on '
the tight,which I have
"copied ' frortta magazi ne
looks very IJluch like
, him, except th~the
'smiled more than this
one 'appears to ' be able
to do. ~he dress also
was different. Our
visitor wore a black
v~lvet shirt with
" silver quarters .' for
buttons. The ornament
,':aroun<;i . hn.!:ineckwas <, ,
,;the ,-Work of .,a , I:'lavajo,
;.. . sii ~e~' sm'i the ,: "
If he , could speak
one word' of"Eriglish, ,
· ·.he never allowed us
. t o hear him.H,i~ firs t
i nterestwas ,inthe
car . ' He stroked the
fe:qder and said very
'softly "Pais-Chuggie ~ "
several times. (W}ien I
retur n2.d. t o Bluff I .
learri;',~ d ; that he was
ci:tlling it'a "Stud­wagon".
,I did not get
the spelling <?f it.
"Stud" isah adjectl.ve of quality with the Nav'ajo. So he was saying tpat
,.".we ·,had a ,ve;ry , high< class ,wagon.) i
, :: '" .J1itbsign,s and 'probc;ihly futile wqrsjs ... W,e,inqu.i,red the name of .... the creek
Oh whichwe ·were camped . Wekhew it' was ;Olj:eto ):reek ,but wanted' to hear
him pronounce it. Hopkin s ' insist~d oncafl:Ing it Oljeeto~ Very· slovlly
the Indian saidOl-j~ay and pointed to the moon, and the~ he p ol~te d 'tb
a bucket of water,and t hen in the direction of the water. We!:iaid .in
unison I ,''Moon-water? "He shook his head and looked at ,.the moon, and then to
the electric , lantern and, then in the direct·ion. of ' the c reek. I said," I
know., Moonlight on the wafer:>" He grinned and said, "0". There is no way
to write it the way 'it sounded,but it meant approval of my words.
All during our :struggles to communicate that evening whenever the "0"
came from his lips wekriew we Were understoQd. Early the next morning he
came to our camp with b ig chunk o f lean meat that looked very' much like ,
venis~n. After much' labor' with hands and tongue we found e u,t that ' it was ,
burro meat. The flesh o f a freshly killed wild 'jackass,o!:" ~f you prefer
the flesh Qf the' "DE!sert Canary. We' cooked ~ couple of slices and found
, it very good. ' Muc~ 1 ike An te lope from the Lund Desert near Cedar Ci,ty .
30 '
In lower rigpt c orner MaXW'ell i s ,
seen gO;Lng ' doWn dugway to Bridge
across the pan .Juari River . Tbe"
cable~ a r e 'maqe of t elephone wire.
Itwas cons-truc.ted by'the,Cattle
" ,qwne;-s of ' ,San. J ,ual} , YOl,Wty .for the
'.,j ',' 6fo. s,:~n9" ,6'f '! Ca"tfie" to ,' .tf.1~:+r' r<7.pg,e .•
. Wellher ~ 'we -<are at: the Hogan! .
.~' Hopk.i ns' borr6wed Mr: ··Harr .ison IS'
,. hor s,~ fqr<th:L~ . one. Showmanship+
'~\r;J.i.. ~:. ~'~ I,
tt~ ..
~ .. ~ ~.~ ~
...
, ,
, ':On ' your' l e :ft ; is ORGAN ROCK e. , ,' "' . ,
,'If you :'look , '; ~
real 'close , you
might see'the'--­'
organist at -the
" II consol e. " Or
, ' 'listen and catch
'the melody OIl'.,
the ever , pr'esent
.bre eze,.
- : Coming up fr om the Mittens was a
Steep ,Sandy Hill. Here' is where a
team was a needed .item. Even today.
it is' all a jeep equipped ,with sand
tires can do t o make, ,the grade.' The
s and is b l own her e and thereby-the
" "I ," "", , , '
wind like snow i nto drifts. '" " , " ,"
:"1
" '/' . .
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Here we are a t El Capitan again!
Remembe r when Rust and Do lph were
h ere" on horseback. This , t ime with
a J::ar., tlStud':'wagon II' the Indians said .
, i
M'orning' j ust outside of , Kayenta.
This is unus ual for Hopkins to be
up first . Dolph was aiways the ·firs.t
", one up e very morning during the e n­tire
t r ip. He sle p t ,in this time.
31
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The picture above in not Hopi Art , b ut it so 'close;lyresemblesthe' type
of work the children were doing that I wanted , you : to s ee :i i:..We ;did not
get ' a 'plcture ofa:!)'y Hopi Drawing$, but many -of ' th~m we'.re e q\ial to the
one ' ;shown,and 'some even better. Note howfew ' t ree:s are rteeded 1:0 indi;...
cate a forest.Thefa~orite subject of the,'Hopi Children,we:r:e the:i,.r
many dolls used in theirrel'igious worship. These were drawn with a
very special care and every detail h ad tabe just right'. , The drawing
shown is the work ofa '. Navajo artist and was, p ubiished , in, t he Arizona
Highways Magazine for July '1956.
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At Tuba City I purchased a can of white paint and did a little print­ing,
on th~ _~ si~eof ' the Maxwell. I have II b I own II the original halft,one up
so you can read the . s"igiis -'on ' this side- of-- the- car. There were' 8iterris
included . ' Commencing on the other side: I.Mesa Verde Park '2 • Natur<;il ,
Bridges 3.R ain~ow Bridge. 4. Organ Rock. On this side: S.Olyropic Gard­ens
6.Monum~ntValley7 . Grand Canyon ,,8 .Litti~ Zion. (Sorry but :E,
cannot tell yo ';1 , why Li,ttle Zion? Olympic, Gardens never stuck either it
is still called The Garderiof the Gods even though there isano-t;.her
Garden of the'· (Sods ' in Colorado) , "
We dr-ove from Organ Rock to Laguna Creek without any difficulty at
all.We had been informed that , Zahn Brothers had taken a car over this
, part 'of the road th~ year before. At 'Iiaguna Creek,near Kayenta,our team
gave us our last help befox:e , return'ing to Bluff. ' Our scout on horseback
also left US.
At Kayenta we s,aw other cars, some had come from Gallup New Mexico
and a few had come from Tuba City,the way we were going. On the 75 mile
dist'ance between Kayenta and, T~b~ City we met only one car so ypu s,ee
there were not too many. There was enough car traffic,however to keep
the road "open". (Better explain that, one) The big problem was sand
and if enough cars drove over it :passage was easy or "open".
Dr Hopkins started asking for aid ' for our Highway Project 'at Kayenta.
They gave him the cold shoulder. I suppose they were too busy. They, may
have 'felt that, they did not need the highway. They had a thriving bus­ness
taking wealthy tourists on pack trips to the Rainbow Bridg~. Not
too 10~gbefore they had taken Teddy Roosvelt to the Rainbow. '
The first day after leaving ,Kayenta we drove th~ magnificent distance
of 52 ~iles to RedLake Trading Post. Early the next morning before Dr
' Hopkins was awake, I got out a hammer and chisel and carved the'words
MONUMENTAL H!GHWAY on the face of a cliff near ,our camp. When he saw my'"
work he took the hammer and chisel and posed as if he were doing the
carvi!1g a'nd had me take a pLcture 'of 'him. Showmanship? I do not know if
he took pne of me or not. If he did I ' neversaw it.
Again Hopkins ' tried for aid. I think the Trading Post gave him 'a few
cans of food. Ther~ was quite a body-of water s aIled Red Lake. Dr took
a swim ,in the raw. I grabbed the camera and took a ,shot at him. I was
too far away. Anyway it never would have outclassed "September Morn."
At Tuba City the Doctor's"begging" got ' us nothing but unkind words.
'We took a short run over to Moenkopi Village. ' Here we made friends with '
a Government School Teacher,Mr 'John Keirns,who was ,teaching in a school
for the Hopi ' Indians~ We had breakfast with him and cooked' the last of
our burro meat. He thought it was very good. We visited his school and
. . ' . ' listened to his children sing"Oh! Ye Hopis Keep in the Middle 'of the Road"
These kids were ' real artists and had some fine artwork toshow~~e
took us ·to a Hopi home where, they had an "Albino Child-,withpink skin
and' ,red hair • 'It did not seem very strong and they did not expect i tto
live 'very long •
. The, water for the school and teacher I s house was pumped. from the
spring' below the hill by a Hydraulic Ram. The " first time I had seen
water lift itse'lf up a ,hill. 'The ' volume , of ' the waterreq'fir~d t9 make
it work has to be much larger than the amount pumped 'up the~ hil'l·'. "
We spent two or three days in and around Tuba City and ,then took off
'for a;runknown section of Monumental Highway. We had no idea of the ,
problems we would enco'unter ' between here and Kanab Utah. ' Uncle Kumen . had
been .over this route in 1879 when they were seeking a route to Bluff.
He gave., us the promise that we would have some ba,d spots. We did. ,
, The road followed,if you 'could call it 'a road , the base of the Echo
Cliffs to the Colorado River. ' In order to cross the river you had to
go up the, r i v'er to Lee I sFerry , but let I s'talk about the t:r;ouble that ,
we had before we got ' 1;:o , the river.
Many small,rivers of water came from the Echo Cliffs during chunder
' storms and washed gullies across the .road. Most. of these were made pass,­bJ.
e by the use of pick and shovel/but some of them were too deep for that.
, , ,;<,~
32
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.. .. HERE ~S WHER.E THE, :'.PULL-ME-UP" CAME I~ iiELPFUL
". '. '.go~ng a 1:one h~ghway, · came at even~ng to .
. a wash too deep but not too wide. .. Why was
the '. ' h;i.gh bank 'on the other sidei" . ~. ,J .
'I'he older I " get th~ . ~ ~/' .. .
. higher this .bank looms . "That is not real . . 9.--' ., / "
in. my memory. the wash was for
Nice sandy bottom
We were stopped
on the bank of a
. gully. The .easy
work of a recent
. . thunder Shower.
~red to be will~ng to negotiate .
. "r
The. side we were on app
and the '. terms were a
pick ' al)d shovel work~ ' ....
\ considerable eam0:lnt ' of· . 6 t ~
But .the other s~de "il . -- ~..;.....---"""-
seemed to say "No!" , ..
This end of tnecable
was fastened to Three
Stak~sdri~en into ' the
.. ......'. . '. .. .. >-. . . With pic k,.
t- ." and s, hovel . we , t'I: broke off the
L~...:.-...;---..---------- . bank . and went down .
ground.
~ '0 .
~.}' . I was at· th.e crank' of 'the "PULL..:..ME-UP "
'~
·The drum
wound up .
l?nd of a
. and ' -Tackle."
. .
We went after. the other 'side with pick and shovel,but
after all the wOrk we were able to do the grade was
still too steep for the Maxwell.
Slowly, we went. up ,O~ our
Dr Hopkins opera ted
"The Push-ni.e-u "
own power.
We toek a short dr-{ve to where the ' Little Colorado River joins the
beginning . of i;,h'eGrand Canyon(if any one point can be named as the' ,be.;..
'ginning.) This . was a grand' view. We' camped over night on the ,rim. "
. Now we 'had come ~ithin six miles of Lee's Ferry. For about three ' miles
we . followed ~narroww{nding road up a's:teep r.idge ;or . '~ hog.' ~ "back". Here
Vile. had our only close' call with disaster .. ' We had come . to the last steep
h ~ ll,andbelieve it or not .itwas downgradetpe rest of the way up . the
river to the Ferry; The down 'grade had Jligh banks on each :side of .the .
. road. Impossible 'to leave the track if ' you wanted. to , but the upgrade had
no protectiveba'riks and there was a sheer drop on each side . of the narrow
road. l knew that .. the . hand-brake would ' ~ot hold the car in cas'; it became
necessa'ry to stop on the way up, so · I ask~d Dr: Hopkins to follOW behind '·
and lichunk" arock ·underthe rear wheel 'incase the engine went. dead • . Ii:
did very hear the- top. The .Doctormissed the wheel with his stone and I
was forced to , back all the way down that,' rtarrow road. ' ...
I had always maintained "that no one should dr i v,e a- car until apleto
back "it anywhere. I was glad that tha.d taken my own advi,ce and l1ad tried
backing the car until I was expert at it. it saved me and the car ,thi s
tim~.
.. ,
The people who operated the Ferry' lived on the other side of ,the River .
33 I
After a ' second go at the road up · the I1hog's Backl1 which sent the car over
the top with a running engine,we began to wonder how we would let the men
who operated the f erry know that .we wcinted over the river ,as the house was
some distance from the boat;.. When we arrive d a t the river our method of
letting ' thein know was right in front of us. On a small wooden tower was
. a bell , a rather large one, and under it was a sign which read.IF YOU WANT
TO CROSS JUST RING THE BE~L OR FIRE A SHOT AND YOU WILL FIND US JOHNNY ON
THE SPOT. We had no·fire arms,so we rang the bell . In a very short time
the boat with two men' Qnboard was coming over to our side .
This boat was powered by the river . current. It was the only one of . its
kind that ·. I had . ever seen ·. ,I think · you might be interested in knowing ,
how it could cross from eit:.her,side propelled by the force of' the. stream.
I present below a sketch · of how -it worked:
Bank "
Wire cable from bank
... ~. DirecUon .
moves this direction
--<::. " I
Boat moves , .
. in this' · dire
pulleys
~ank
made longer Right hand cable made longer
After leaving the Ferry we headed for House Rock Valley following the
base of the Vermillion C1i:ffs on our right. We. came to a bad patch Gf
sand . I hadbeeri told that letting som . of the air out o f th~ tires made
it. possible to drive .oversandwith ease. It did help, but I guess t hat
I ' let toornuCh air out which 'allowed the · sand to creep in between the
casing and the ·tube. When I wenttopurnp them up they would not hold air .
Removal, of the casing and inspec~ioh_?fthe , t ube showed it to be· full o f
holes. The 1a1rger particles of sand caused some of the hole,but the ,great ­est
.ho1e makers were the tiny bits of bailing wire · that had been Gut by
the wagon wheels of many years as the ground through the heavy s and .
We ' were in catt1ecount.ry now. The next sand we encountered, a friendly
c att·1emanhitched his rope , to our front ' a :x.:1e and helped us through. We ·
.hadthis kind ·of help almost to Jacob's Lake. Here we were told that ·
the road was not .open to the Grand Canyon. Blocked with the snows of . .
winter.
At Kanab, I purchased twq new tires fo+, the rear wheels. The cost was
$7 5~00,which Dr Hopkins paid out of the $100.00 he had agreed to give
for the expenses of the trip. Up l,mti1now I hadnot' used any of the
spareparts' that ' I had carried with me. The" chance to use onE:! of them
came in a bad spot. We were crossing Ash Creek jus t before e~tering the
: town · of Toquerville when 'the tie rod connecting the two front wheels came
100~e from the right fr~nt wheel. The front wheels d i d a '''spread ec;tg1e l1
and the car 'could not be moved in either direction. This happened in t he
middle of the · s.tream. ,
I "got olit the spare .thatI had with me and waded into t he stream t o
34
I I
I '
replace the broken par1;. We drove, to Washington and visited for a while
with my parents and brother Laron,then we were going to go to Cedar City ,
but deci,ded to visit Zion Canyon',we had given it up wheI1 we were told
that there was no auto road into the canyon~
Dr Hopkins thought \'1e sh6uld ' go ' up there when he learned that MrWylie
was in the canyon establishing a camp like he h ad in Yellowstone. We
were told that we could take the car to Springdale without difficulty
and that a team and buggy could, be hired to take us into the Canyon.
We hired the, team and buggy, but' found it could go no farther than the
Wyl ie Camp. We rode the hor:;:;es up the canyon as far as the narrows. Had
a pleasant visit with MrWjlie who was just ' getting his c amp s~t up. We
also saw MrFairbanks the artist and father of Avard Fairbanks I , the
sculpter. He ,wasthere painting pictures6f Z!ion Canyon.
I 'stayed in Cedar City a f~w days and Dr Hopkins took the train for
'Salt Lake. I drove up to Salt , Lake taking Aunt May Woodbury with me~ ,
We drove to Scipio the first day and stayed there overnight ~ 'In those
days no one ,ever thought of, driving to S,alt Lake in one day. They al- .. ,
ways stopped at the Scipio Hotel overnight.
' At Salt Lake city a painful thing-happened to me. I drove to theUtan­Idaho
Motor eompany and ' they took possession of 1;he Maxwell to ,c9ver
a $400.'00 bill that lowed them. They ' also took the agency away from me
and gave to the Moab Garage Company. So ends the Monumental Highway
trip, but here begins another story of ,adventure. '
MrJacobsen,a cattleman and others
' like him gave us a pull from the
saddle horn now and tl1en as needed.
He was engaged in a struggle ' for
survival with a large cattle company
,who were pushing him off the range.
At Cedar City we 'saw Tren Jones
and his team of Goats. Dr Hopkins
took the photo'.
, . We saw the Great White Throne b e ­for~
there were any roads. I am on
, the white horse.
, 35
J
THE STORY OF THE BURROS AND ,THE NATURAL BR! DGES AND FIVE PEOPLE.
as related by Dolph Andrus, one of the five.
It all began in Salt Lake City the day I was introduced to L.W.C1ement
by . Dr Hqp,kins . and Mr Hansen I ·Schr amm.,::,John son .1 s . Photographer, and I signed
thefo1iowing a.gree~Emt~i th him: . . .
AGREEMENT ,
This agreement ,entered into t.his 8t.h day of June 1917, by and between
L.W.C1-ement,of Salt Lake City, party of the first part and Dolph Andrus,of
~luff, Utah party of the second part to wit: " . ,
. That wherein the abpve par.ties wish to enter into an agreement for the
'purpose of · photographing and,\ conurtercia1izing Motion Pictures of certain
scenic subjects,and wherein party of the first part has full equipment,
and athouroughknowledge of the, · said business, together with a complete
plant for finishing 'of said pictures , and wherein the party of ,the second
'pai::'thas.ways and means of sect;lring the financia'l backing necessary to ·
make the trip and secure said pictures ,and is desirous of making the said
trip be it therefore agreed: . "
That party of . the iirst part furnishes for sai,d trip complete ,equip";
ment necessary 'for the photographing in motion ·' pictures any scenes of
interesttha,t maybe wanted, including the negative ' stock,same to be paid
for -at ~.egu1ar retail price 3~'¢ per foot by . money ,. raised for the purpose,
also all negative film developed shall be paid for at .the rate of1¢,per
foot, all positive printed at 1¢ per foot,and a li positive stock used in- .
c1uding the developing of 'same at , 4~¢ per . fObt~ . . . . ' . . . . .
. That the p'arty of · the , second part ,furnishes the SUrrI of Five Hundred ··
Dollars in cash, and stands obligated for one half of ~llindebtness in­curred
in the makingand , finishing of ' said' pictures.
, , A~d ,that in case of .fai1ure both parties are .• p'ersona1ly · obligated t'o·
the extent of the debts ·contractedfor during the . filming of:this pict~
ure, and that each party' assumes their equal half of the Five Hundred '
. Do11arsusedto.finance the picture • .
. Both parties ag~ee that the first profits shall be used to pay . off
the Five Hilndred Dollars apove named an<:l that when this may have been
paid in full all other 'net profits shall be divided between both parties
as follows : . . . l
'- '
The party of the first part to receive 60% and the party of, the sec- ·
ond part ,to receive 40,%. Bot;hpartiesagl';e€!ingto devote their undivided'
att~ntionandthetimeriecessarytomakethe trip and photogra,Pn tl)e
scenes, and in any other waytha.t maybe necessary toestabLLsh±he'
. success of the picture, upon ,such terms as · may be later decided upon. -
Signed Witness , W , . ' A. Zimmerman Signed L.W.Clement
= = - = = .- - = = = .= = = = =
Party of the · 'First Part
, ,Dolph Andrus
P~rtyoftheSecond Part
= = = = ::::c " =::: -- -- . -- -- --
. As I look over the contract now some 50. years 'after I can see that .
I was getting" the short end of the doub1e~tree tI . but at that "time I ,was
so 10w ,in spirits that anything looked high and good to me. I had 'no
idea where I would fipd $500,00 I but I was sure, I could find it some­where
· so ,Ipromised 'bold1y without showing the doubts that w€!re in my
mind." Of · one thing ' ~ . was sure I theB1uf.f . Chamber of Commerce would not
furnish the money· . The $50.00 had been difficult to collect. ·
36 ' J
. ,­~
'.,
~r
/
I
/
/
• ~ ;. .~-. 'r --. ' (., -
-:- . ~ .~-
l'r tingled with excitement when "But I was about t o burst my
r:?r+H~n~e~ ~l~y~e~ ~e+t~ ~a~r¥ it+ + + + + + +b~t~o~s+a~ ~u~ nin~ ~h~ <f r~n1f ."
r~ was Dr Hopkins who introduced me t o Mr Clement, hereinafter calll 1
Clem;but Mr Hansen was the father ~ the idea for making movies of the
Bridges and Monument Valley. He had done considerable business with Cl em
as Schramm-Johnson had no facilities for developing and printing motion
pict~rea. He was d9ing considerable work in and around Salt Lake with his
movie camera for advertising purposes . You will remember that Mr Hansen was
with the party that I took with me on my ·first trip to Monument Valley in
November of 1916.
, Mr Hansen invited me to go with him up to the University of Utah where
he was to make movies of various University doings . He invited me to go
along with him. I tingled with exc itement when he al l owed me to carry the
camera,even ' though it was very heavy I shoul dere d it lightly. I thought I
would burst my buttons when he allowed me to turn the c r ank. He seemed to
sense what it meant to me as he took my picture with another camera that he
was carrying. (the photos shown above) We ll it. was a great moment for me -
my entry into the Motion Picture Business. When I fall in I fall in allover,
He had a big project on the next day. He wa s going out t o Bird Island in
the Great Salt Lake to make mov ies of t he birds . He thought that I should
go along with him,but I.felt tha t I should be getting home and that our
corning trip to the Natural Bridges and Monument Val ley should have my un­divided
attention and at once . There were many probl ems to consider. First
was the providing of finances, second wa s the providing of transportation.
The second was not in the contract , but just fell naturally on me because r
was on the site or "location" as we say in the movi es . Mus t learn to ~se
the lingo now so as not to seem l ike a novice. Mr Hansen said, "-:JRemember
that at ~resent there is a good market for unusual sunri se and sunset scenes
37
' .
with spectacular background. You have that where you are going , especially
':10 :'ou have it in Monument V.3.11ey ."
n ~ t i thought ~ story ah~uld be written and acted out during the tr ip .
i 'could ' riot ~t that ,time settle on .~ ,pl ot,but I was sure that I could
write the "script" e' More. i3.bout that later.
Th~' question of finance was heavy on my mind. I f I went to the , bank ,L
knew just what they wouid ~ay."~e will let you have the money if you will
get someone · acceptable ' to us who wilL sign .with you. Ii I am going to re-
' peat ap experience that ' I related before when th i s situation came up and
the lesson I learned.' When I needed to borrow $100 . 00 to go 'to Summer
'School in 1911 after graduat'ion from the BNS in Cedar City I went to the
Bank of Southern Utah and was t<;>ld to get some one to sign with me. I went
i:othe man we had been renting from,Uncle HyPerry. His "Prompt an~werwas
"Hell! No! But ·1 will iet you have the money. If I am to take the risk I
am not .going to let the Bank collect the interest! · I'll take. it myself. Il ' I
I thought of all the people ihHluff that I might ask to loan us the '
money,})ut could settle on rio one. ' So I dropped it for a time and turned
my attention~o transp~rtation. A wild idea came into my mind,but I must
have Clem's approval. ~
It came . to me that . our tra~sportation was running around in ~he streets
of· Bluff. A departing prospector had left ' hi$train of B~rros in charge
of Dan Hayes one of my ' pupils in: school. All Dan did was to turn them ,loose
ih the streets. They seemedto ·thrive on what they could find growing .in
the sandy streets . On:ce 'in a while they would , go out in the brush west of
•,
town along 'that level stretch that ' bordered the San Juan River between
the Cottonwood Wash anc;1 Butler 'Wash,but most of the time they could be
seen in the streets of Bluff. . .... j
I ' timidly mentioned this to Clem and his wife Jennie,who was go~ng with
him on . the trip. I had alsQ proposed to take Irene and 'Torma 'along w:i::th .me.
,Clem and Jennie thought the burro idea was just great. They both knew. !
about burros pnd how dependable they were(See article THE BURRO taken from
THE ARIZONA HIGHWAY magazine on page 40 )Mr Hansen scoffed at 'the idea of
·taking our wives along and thought t;.hat horses would be slow enough as he ' 1
still remembered his trip to the bridges on a horse. '
Clem asked 'about pack saddles and assured me that any expense incurr~d
in procuring them would ba paid out of the $500.00. I was sure th~ta Mr
Douglas, also an old prospector, but not the owner ' of the b i;lrros, had pLenty
of pack saddles and other gear that he would let us use without charge.
S~ our transportation was solved. "
Now Hansen raised the question, "How are you going . tofin.<t your way to
the Natural Bridges. I c6uld not find my way there . unaided and I .have
been there,but neither one of you have been there. The Mormon pioneers
passed very close to them and they never saw them,even though they . sent
out many scouts in all directions seeking the best way to ·go., The cowmen
rode 'all over the' cou;1try and never .. saw them until about 1909. You will
never find them .without a guide. You are crazy to .take women and a child
on such a trip."
r3ut Clem said, ';We 'need persons in the picture . This is :to be a Travelogu
and they always ' have people in them."
" Forget it" I said Hansen, "Get the sunrises and sunsets witht}1e monuments '
and bridges for back'drops and you have it made. They are not buying many
Travelogues rigl:lt now.' They are a dime a dozen. Too many of them."
38
I > •
1
I
our anpo a on was runnl g
around in the streets of Bluff
. . ~ . .
' . . . • >
. I
" " .' "
• • >
" ' of 'f' ",
J 0' '
> ,
. .•. ' . •. . ..•• . ", " . 'l'" ;' •. . ""....:
, '. ''j " ~ J • • •
, .,. ' . .' • • ' ! ~ " " .L " '. . " .. ' .' ," ." . j. ..... I ' . "
, , .~. " ~ \ ',' ,
\ . ." ~
,. I _., ' '. ~ " • \ . • •
. "
. i:J , .
Burros ' are patient, plodding and philosophiCal ,animals,
droll anachronisms in these modem, high-geared times. They have
, .. ' ....• ". . ( ,
disappeared .from the wide highway, b.ut in the back country where
th~, trails 'ate (s~~ep; '~nd ' na~ow, they clompcclo~p along, faithful
;. , " ~ .,-. -': " ..... ' .. '. "
~n~ uncomp,lahllng~dertheir burdens: . For ·the dramatic and
.~ ,
. .~~roicr()le; th~YJ?lay:e<l:ill the , cqriqmi$t'of the West, Nature. gave
. th~m super~_~uiPIIlent. · Th~y're , s~e.Jootedas mountamgoats,
.,' .' ~ough,astecrlli~r~·ilD.d'ix>ss~s~ed of great strength atid, enduran~e. ' The
\'. :.« . . ..... ~ '- .' ' ....... :.', '. ' ':":'.' ' . ..' .' ~. , '.. ': '
·h~at of the trackless desert holds no terror for them, nor do they
~;l:%~hbef();ethe,bitte~Wind ... They:eat~t.rl ,gr()~ ~ato~.the ~rest .
, j~te, altl)61lgh .itisnot'truethafbuITOS eattUicans b~''fence posts .
.·.~ :At)·'~l~l PrOsp,ecthf:~~'cetol(Ltis 'his :~Urr<) j~ a' 'fh~f:perversi~y ate a ,
.... '~. '.. " '.' ·f.. ' ....._ " . :' /' ' " .' -- ," . . . >' -, , ... . ,) ' . '_.' ~ .' ,... ' .. ~ ' • .
,. gold'Wa~chandchain~ ,W,e, ~o not doubtthatbecausebUfros are by .
· hatureopp6s~d to, mode~ : inventionsal?-dw~tches are, rOtorio~~ly '
·enl~stniin.ents irt ~ .!tyes of the . unhUrried .. And bUrros iaketheir
. . .. ' " :. ' " ~'~ .,"
" . J'h~y siInply~efuse 'to'h~y . when hurrie~ they. get stUbborn; ,
-'-\,':': \'" .:;fudri9tbiUg can be as stub~asa s~bborn~~. Beatings an?
,,\, .' ..• :: . ,.,' :~~~swili 4~tmove them;: ·gtrild, a 'fire under th~m\'and they'll step ' . ",.
. :._:: ... . _ .:~:. .. - - _", ': • -, ..-: • .: ...•. :, . ", . :- :-; . _ .. _ _",_:. ... '. c _;', _ ' " :_" . _,'
. . ; :daintilyalol1g'to g~iaway from the-flames and ,thenthey'llstopimd -..... . ': .. ,-, . -, " , . : . ,,' - ," . '; " ' ... ;
takerooiagain . . One, canta~:keroti~ 'old desert rat w'e. krlow . blazed .
· ~~ ti~il .of ·fke' fo; amile toh~hisbillTO befor~: he ;w~sbest~dj~
a~la~ii' of wills. , Once a b~o~ecides' t~ ~btrt:~<>yi~;;:h~~il go on :
ste~~il;and'#reiessl;ina sI6~,sle~pi way coveBrig a lot of coUntry "
'. and~~ f()ughetthec(nmt~'Y ~e beitei:., " ' " ' .' . . .
.." . . . ',.," ," . .', ,' .. , ~ '. ,' ''~' . "i.' _.. ' . . . \ .' ~ . . .. . ,
:.' -', They . are w()nderfuL~01IJ.pimionso~thelonely trail~ being iiI . -:'
c" tum 'lcind, playful~ misthievolls" $y1npatheti~and understanding .. ""
.." , ... ...... :.~. J. " , , ' , ._. ,'. .. . .~. ;; . ,.~. ! .' ..... ,:. ,. ... ,' .. , . . .' - ...'- "; .... ,' ~ '.: ' . :". ~ .
Maybe because they've heel! ~istreatec;l so much, burrt)&-thrive ,unaer ,
:~~eh?.::~tZt.~::r~U?tZ!~ rz::; .
,kitch~~~60r locked. ~~l)S~' th~r go~into the habit ~h~n no one. w~s ' '
'. , ,.' .. ~ , . '. ~~~ , '-.~ ) -.' :>'"- ". \ . .r.' : '. ,,' '. , '. : 1.....,.. ". .. .
looking of ,g9ing into the ki~<;h~11 ,and helping. the~~elves from . the
• ' .. ,~:' • • • • •• r ; •• :' . ... . ...... , -:. ' . ' ' ,~ •• ~. :'.! 1_' •• ••• :. '.~ ' .: . : .. • ,icebOic. ~ .. ," .' I, '. ,> ' •
. .. ';' ! ; .', ,.',", , t .
,,'A' neiw ,c~ntutyand; cha~ging ticies have 'left!the ibUrio far ;'"
, .' " '. . ." '.~ ,.. : :'" , ,, ' ;,' ' .. ·', l '.' .' . .'" .
; ~hipd. ~ The ,moc;lerni·str,e~mliper s~~ds. ahead, onthf'Wlngs()f,the:'"
... ; .. "':' . .,- ... .. "r', _,:.: '".- .. ".,' ... .. _. ~ ' - . ~ ;.'. , "'< '. ;< .- . ":'," ." '< ~ '; '"- .. , : ( " '~
[
n
Winttwhile·' the; vinri Illunches: mesqwtebeans'in the ' sha~e'of a ·' .'
e~righ~ :oU~~s~~tekee'., . TheY,lm;'~) ~an;disih.cti~ris;. ~o~~~, not,· .•. ·l
.' . the' H~asq)raiseworthy of '~hicJi 'i,s that tme of their kind was used' .. \
, .:', r' , '\ " ,'"'. " , , -" : J __ _ ,', ' " J ' • (
. " .. \ ': "by' CIn1~~' to travel th~ dustY 'roads of, Judea long, long agq, ... ItC. :' . '
" . . f
.1' \" ,:
BURROS
&
' . 4,~, .~( •. , '
.) .
But Clem ,d i d not give up the idea of a Travelogue with people in it
and we were to be the people,nor did I forget my'idea of a story to be
acted out. I said nothing to Clem about it.,but my mind was tal king a
str eak to me about it.
·The subj~ct most talked about was burros. Al l the old Sunday School
lessons about the ass (just a nasty name in some people's minds for the . .
humble burro) and the prominent part the little animal had played in
the making of the Bible. The Durromust have been with the Bible folk
from very early times becaus~ we read in Genesis t hat Jacob in blessing
one of his sons called him " ... a s trong ass crouching down between two
burdens." But this was not material fora story.
How about Samson slaying thousands with the jawbone of an ass: We could
discover a j awbone and then relate the story. We could neve~ act that one
out. The story would be too . something - well anyway it would not do . Then
there was Saul hunting for his father's asses. We could act that one out
anq re-d iscover the Natural Bridges - that one was put on the shelf as
possible but not probable.
My f avo~ite burro story in the Bible seemed to have probaoility. and
possibility~ It would only require three actor s ,Balaam, an ass,an angel
and t he voice of the Lord. These were the days before "talkies" so the
voice would be printed on the screen and would not be very convincing.
;Here the Durro had more vision than h is master and it made a charming
story,but not f or us. I hated to give t hat one up . I could see that wise
old burro talking back to his master after he had bruised his foot against
the wall.
I thought of all the incidents in the New Testament where the ass had
played such a pro~inent part in the life of the Savior,but let them all
go as too sacred for me to tamper with,but the thought of them increased
my respect and admiration for our proposed transportation.
My mind now talked to me of burro in literature. Shakespeare had hi s
characters dream of falling in love with an ass. Not for us and I was
sure of that.Well I could go on and on,but I was soon and strongly at
gr ips w'i th a whole' new idea of my own.
I would fin d a handsome burro. He woul,d be the star of the show. I
picked out a name for him. It would be Rudof Burrontino. In my mind I
could a lready see h0w the advertising might read. On the preceeding page
I have made up one of my dream posters for your admiration if you feel
so illclined and for your censure if that is your mood.
[ stil l had no idea of a story,Lut I was sure that one would come to
me soun. Right now I must do some shopping and get my ticket from the
Lenver and Rio Grande stat ior. for my r ide to Thompson and then home to
Bluff v ia Moab,Monticello ar.u Blanding. My shopping netted me:One pair
of leather "leggins",One l?rown shirt with long cuffs and large white
buttons plus a wj.de hat that the clerk assured me was "movie" style. I
could buy no more. Dr Hopkins had given me the balance of the expense
money for our trip and it was just about gone after I had purchased my
ticket.
With n.}" head f.ll1 of burros I boarded the train. I had shipped all
my belongings by Parcel Post except what 1 could carry in a small suit
case. No wonder that 1 had wild dreams on th~ train . They are best told
in the picture on the nex~ page. Thls picture was drawn several years
ago when I had ambition to put out my story in Diary form. Part would be
real and part a fake Iladec the name Pop tit r: lary. The picture is of one
pave fc~ t ~ ,. att--.t.
1'2
I~·
, ,'P'
• 0'-'1"
t u r ~ was made several
and Thompson
-_·~~ _ .'n • ,
that for I have just asked the conductor. for the
,- -c- . , , .. . , ' ~ ..
. , manyeth ', time, "Are we near Thompson?" He let me'
,hear him say, "We are not! We are not dt,Jethere until
~~;'J ,4:3~. __ -~t jS~h~ 2:00. Yo~ go to sleep and let M~' WOrTy ..
: ':'" about you getting off. It's MY job to tell folks where to
get off at!" ' I slid into a sitting sleep and there came
to me a dr";~I'I , There is a rock at Bluff called '
LOCOMOTIVE ROCK. In my sitting dream I ,stood in
, the field under the s,h adow of the ROCK. I was wearing
my leather "leggins" and funny pants billowing and bulging
I ' . -4'
above the smooth grip of the leather shin guards A
brown s,hirt with long cuffs was topped by a ' "movie type"_
, hat.' I thot I was casting director seeking a bUlTo hero
for a movie with a title BURROS & BRIDGES. The · type"' .
I was looking fO. r .was very clear 1n ~y mind. . His noble \
head was pictured in a white ' cloud above me. . .
The!' RUDOLPH of all the JACKASSES! ,
. . ' . . ." '. . .
When . the Conduct~r . iriformed me that we'were .100 rnilesbeyoridThompsoI1
· I asked him what ,he' w~sg~ing ;tQ ~ dQabou't it~ , B:esa-id, "I ' willlet' you off.
' at the., next ~tat:Lon and 'give y01;1 a note to ·the Conductor of the next ,
train going i:owatd ~hompsp.n . . ije,.,'W:i,.11 give ', yo~ afre.e ride pac1S: ,tq;'~homp "'; . :
.. .. ." .~ . ' .'. :. ~ . . ..• .. ' . . .' . . . . ... ', '. " ":'. . '- . . son. " '. ' . . • . ' . , " " . '.: . " . . , .. " .:., ' . . :: ., ' .' •• : '. ~. ~ • '. . , ,'.::'. . 1 " . ' . . .. ' . .. .. · .. 'rhat . is. fine ,11 . I said," But how;'doI get out . o f· Thompson'?, The stage
. for M6ab wil.1 b~ . goneand 'Ihayenoextra ,mo'rley f,orHotelinThompson. u
..... He",assbrryanq e~pre'ssed} it, bgtdid nothing ·.more abo uti~L · . . " .
. He let m¢ bfat the' nextstaticm and · Igav~the · note to . the . Conductor
and he · e~c.la:i,.med; "What is the matt;:er witl;1 that guy. You ar~fhetenth ' .' .
persoI1" he 'has' carr:Ledby Whompsonin thelastmonth?"I t 'old' him my 'story
<- no.t· a bput; tl\¢dr:e~ijl · - .but ·howt)lad , tried~o k~epawCike : apCihad ., been .. '
told to go ;to ·slt3ep. · .1'Just like him. II was his Only conunent. ·.. ·. ... . . .. ', . .
. ·As·~h$.d ·. surmised ',the'·stage fbr·116a.b had been " gone ·for ·:twO·hours qr ' .
more when' T< arr'i v.ed . in . Thcmlp.son· • . Ts~artedlooking· around . . ' Perha~s . the~e :
wouldpe :atea:m the.re ~fter freight . . :t. was in luck there 'wasChar:les :Redd
f.roni:the ' L'aSal Ranch~fter a ,loado:f.sa.l t..- <Tf Iwanb~d to h.~iphim· . 19ad·
the ,salt : w,e · could get away socmer ,lwas glad to help andplunderedin,- .
.to .as.it,u;;:tt"ion <that, gave ·me a reput'ationas a strong ',!tlan. ~ ' . ' ~ .. ' .'. . ..... ' . ' .
" Tl1e': saltwasin·b.ags ·piled about' shoulder height . . 1 ~lida couple of
>them ,o~rto"xnyshou:tder and staggered: for the wagon. I 'knewt' ~as wea~· .. for .·
.' I had not had any breakfast, but I ' thought ' I . could still carl:"Ya. hundted
'·pounG.s Wi thou.t . staggering •. Mr" Redd shouted at;. ,rne, "who . dq yo~ think you: "
ar~? Samp~on ,bi ' S~ndc)'w? "Those bags' are 1'00 .' poundseacn .. n . 1WCl;S . pariying
200 pounds ,.no-woriderl· staggered. B~forethewagOn ,.was loadeci·i~lmos:t "
· staggered ·under . one bag.. '., ' ..
· . 1spemtoIle. nigl1tand hadtwolllealsat· theLa ·SalRanch. fotwhich1
was charged ' nothing .OneOf.the hearby ' r~ncherswas going ,tQ Mont'ice:L'lo
. so I . roc1~ ' w'ithhimand . there ,was another man fr'om ' BICl;pding: so ,r ,got a
ride that ~ar, butfbrBiuff ,25 miles> away therewas .noth:ing ·to·' do· put
wa,lk. '. . . . . . "
1.st~rted to . walk carrying mysmallsuitcase. T had n~ id~~wha.t· time
it was, bu"t it was far into the 'nig.htwhen . I became: too tiredand . ~l~~py
to . walk . any , more. I . made my",pe'd" (Pctge 45 )atapout . thesame ·spot·: where"
r. had. first .' .se:enth'e . mOhumEmtstPage · 3.) .· Tl1eY . mock~d me;ini the · moqn,light,
but: :now it was not question ofridirtg a~ongthem.That 'wa-sa-"~ure thing, .'
but could. they be made' to pay me 0 .rrtorteY?rrhat ·was · the ' mocking .ur:certainty ·
as I lay ' me down 'to sleep~ ,Even : ;though 'itwas Juhe.9.p..dthe grouridw;;:t's,
war~,theai.r · Was · too.cool .for ' th~ ' scantcoverth,:e . 90nt¢ntsoJmy.suit~ ·
'Cctse provided ine' with. ' I couid ··spare.rmofhi'hg : u.tO' -:put': und~r me, s6 I ' . '
laY,on . th.~ b~re <;Jrouhd;·not. kpOV{i~g <j>r caring wb.at. bugs Imight 'be crus~- .
ingunder me. Twas too cold to sleep,except by "fits and . startsw .. There .
·wasplentY·Offuel.aroundarid I could .have made a. fire; but:r ·.h,ad ·no , , ... .
'match'~ '. M.orriingcanie 'at·last with the warm ,welcome s un. There wasn6
breakfa.sttop'repare ,soTforced· my I stiff and ~orei' legs tOcaiiyine in
"', the!'direction.of Bluff I home, TorIlla alldlr~ne. .... . : ... ~ . ' . ...... ". .... . r
. "Home' is ,thepla,ce where when, you have to goth!=re they' ,have to 'iet '
. yOu ·inl\. had·notbeen ,written,butr ·it . has always be~K true~ · I ' wO\lidbe :·
glad to get home ,but, would they.be 'aShained of my failure? For the ' first .
'.f leish d i sapo inted. perhaps ., but ashamed ? NeVer ! ' The~ 10ved~me and I -loved
'. them.' But jus:t ' wait': until they . h~ar · about. the <;:omiI1gadventcUre .that . we '
. are ' goi~g .toshare · a·nq. ·sharealiKe .: Tbe eritirefamily isgbing·onthe ·
next <trip. But' what:w-ill the people .int11e town think. ands~y?; :, . ,' "
'. , ~ 44
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~his is a real-sure-enough
. ~" photograph of LocomQti ve ,Rock
'c, that played such a promin~nt ·
part in the dream incident
as pictured on page 43. Ybu
can see that it ±s well ,named. ,
It doe~ looi like a locomotive
of the old type when they had
the funnel shaped smokestack .
++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++++ ,
"'I stqrted to walk ,the 25 miles from, Blanding to Bruff carrying my small suit case. 'I had no- idea
what · time it was,but it 'was far into the night when I became too tired and sleepy /to walk any mOre.
I made my ." bed" at about the same spot as where I had fir-~'t seen the ,'monume.nts (Page 3) They mocked
me in the moonlight as I lay me down to sleep. Even though it was June aI)d the ground was warm,the
air was too cool · for the .. tscan't cover the contents of my suitcase suppJied me with. I could spare
none of them to put under me,so I lay on the bare ground,notknowing or caring what bugs 1 might
be crushing ·under me. I slept by fits and starts until the warm welcome sun came up • . I arose arid
packed my suitcase. There was no breakfast to . prepare so I made my stiff legs carr'y me on in the ' ""
direction of .Bluff·." ;~~
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. '. !.was eta . learn what onetownatnanthought})ef6re~ even got into town .
. , Frank Hy·deexpress\9d··the sentiments of most'- everyone when he came but 'of
Cb~ Canyon :j.n his carandnl~t.mewith ·; ~1'l'hatif2a hell-uf-a-wayto be com-
· inghorne!··.Wher¢ t·s YOlu:car?," .' :i:had~o ,· thirik' of something quick that d id
. . nc>.treq:uiretooim~·Gh ·.explanat16ri c and . would · b~s'imple and, 'easy to. give to
" everyone' who would ask ·thesamequestion. ~y thinking 'prought out the
. ·~· .s iinple ca:nswer,,; . 'i I ' i;;old i t'-·II . Then 1 started t6talk fast about the movies
· weweregoiIlgt.oI$.ke . o:{ai·l·th~>·scenic · ~ttractionsof ,the ~c6untrY. .
·WellJtworked 'on' h,im ~nQ~lost enquiring f .iiends ,but,' it' .would not do ·
. for home use : 'Irerie'wou'ldwan tto' know· why? I twas thetruththa t . I did
sell :thecar.-r: got$400.00:fd:r it and: paid mybtll at the Utah:"'Idaho .
Mot·or 'cqrnpapY. ' Thex:ea'retnany b;l.ank spots .. inmymemoryof. ~h~pas:t and
here is ~: one of .them.l<cannot· recall:. a single thin'g aboutmyrneeting cwith.
--Irene and .Torma or how! Ir·enefelt. about, f .ollbw:Lng ·theburros .tothe·
~ B'ridgesaridMoriu~ent 'yaliey~' )·nt Ican ·rerneniber. istl:ie preparations. that
were made· for·thetrip ·.· .. '.". ' . ' ..... '.' ' . .. .. .. .•... '.
, ;. 'jThe f .it-stthing wa,s ·~6CJe·t· ,the $500. 00. To :the Bank in Bla'nding I went
al1dgotthe ,same ' olqan-sweri "We ,will . make the, loan i f y ou will g~t some ....
oi)e accepta'bJ,e'tous 'tpsigrithenote withyou." ·The f .i rstmanI went - .
··t<?··wg,s Franqis N~il~Oh. :~is:rep'lY ' Sh~~ed .. the- kiDdiyintere~t of : a :, true
', . ;' . ' .. . : ~ : .' ~~ ...... ,: """ _ " _: ~_ ' __ - . , ,: '.' " . . .. , .,1 _.' ~, . . ~._. "', , ' " , '. .. " , .. .. .. :_ : " , • friend. /'1 wouldb~·gl-aqto . si9:riwit.byou, "he said,!1 If '1 was 'sure that .
it' wou1ci . be~the , righttliirigforY()\i · tQd,o~. Ifyopfailed- and l ·padtQ·.'
· ·p~yoff:the · poEe: .:woulc(:no.t . ~<?t:h~r ' me~ >Th~m()~ey ~o.uld · be. a t~Lfle,b~1: : if '
' I . ha¢ih€!lped ' you. getii)tot:rouble . I :wDuldfeeL bfldly . a,boutthat • You
think" it: ,ove']::' . very' cal!:,e'fullyand if' 'Y'?u' stil:l i~e l ,that you ' ar~ doing"
'tl;leright . thing·lwill,glad+ysig:hth:e 'notew~th yod. " , ..... .. " . '. .
Ithought.itove.rcarefii'lly :anclbe'· signedthe note • . :Nowthe '-restof
.the ' preparatioh~ . 90\llCi ·p~ , made. oa:ll;'llaYE!S ' ~as :, agr.e~-abie ·about,·the'·burros .'
and' they .. were 'in ' ',town:. 'i'herj3 '.W'ason~ ts1ti~ll,'vei:y ,gentle-<methat Tqrma .' .:: .•
:· co.q.ld rid~ ; Mr·Doug.l.·as'had all "kin-dsof ' Piaq~ , ·sadd:re's,· C;arivas ·. b·agf? ,sheets · . '.'
· of ·C'anvas ::.-llobb·le}3:;'et.c ~· ithat·he . 'would'let 'us . take . withc>Ut· :char~e. : The : he$t :
'thing . was tha:thehad:.a .smal.l ($cidd;L-e. ju~t,r ight for Torma ~ Uncle ·Rumen '.:
, .... -:, . ' _"" _ " . . ._. '. '_ . ,, ' : ' . _ .:. _ ' .,', '_, : :"'. ~ '. " :' _ ' _. "' : ." . - _ -: ' :'. . : ", , ._ ' -' , ,,_', - - c ·.'· ' . _" ...... -' .. . ': , ."_ '_ - " _ ", ' . _ ( ·let us; .tak~aho.rse·' aridsa:q¢ile-, There ;wa:~ ' stiLI:, .the proh.1em of' fi:ndip,g
' .: ~ . _' ' . . .. _, " . ' _:.J ">" ., ' ' :. :' ... . ~ .' :_. :',_ d •• : : • ", • _ , : ' •. .: : .' _ _ . • . " - _ _ - • . ~ our·. way ·to ,·the,Bri¢l(Je,~~ · : '+t, : ~'e~med : t"d< '~e .:'thata ' <jqodmap .: would help • . This
.• had ~9cc~r'red ·to .. ·.Me.· :fti~'al~ : :L·ake .. p~tyc and , I.h~d , ~one ' to ' tl1e ; VpIte,d :.Stite;s · .
· Lapd ..O ffice·and;·w.ith .•t he, help ..·. 6f··Mr :. . l(in~ircks · had ' pr9cured' " ,the ' mosi: ·de~··' . ·•. ~::~1mt~~~:r~~~:~f!;;tt~~~~i:J~!t~;~t~:i~r~~£f~Zl~~q)~~4:~~~·· .•..•
. ther'e.Since·:the:·tral;:,.1 . .wa~ .:to, £Q119W'thliQld. M~rnionROad 'used; ·:·by·the .'
-": -. ; ' " .. "--:,~ . , .... : .,', . . ;, ' ..... , ,:.-:-: ' .-.. ' ~' ; '~,. -' - ;.'. , ., .... . ' ... -' ...... :' .. .... - , "''- ' .•..., ' .: . ....': . .- ' : . ~ ''":' -'. ,,,,:. ' .' ..~ ' .. -. - ' -""-,,,,:: ., . - .... . , '\;, '
. f~~s,t . settle+s·C?~.'-~Bl~~f,'U'~c .le :· Kum.en·'$, <a9-:V);C~.}H~d . de~ct,tptiop.of ' the : .·area :
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' ·the'seon .th~ · . origina1 ,: map:·that · ·we" t,ook <with<' u~J··· B:at.her ·. than ·· taJre : time "
, ~~s~~E:~~:~~~!~~~;i~i~~:~~t:~~!rSt~~~1~i;!;i~~t~~;!::~~:!~eJ:
. The . 'teproduction :' is ; riotyeiY· ;..g.ood/,but> t ~ ~hj;nk. ·thErY :wi~1 )give :; ther~ader : .
, .--, ... , . . . . -', ," ': ':.. " ':,' ' " ,', ., , ',- . " , '.- :'-', " . ' ' .-_._':.., . .;, .•. ,: ... ~ __ .... . . ' : .. _' .. ",.,c,:. ,: · . ;>,. ,. ·.·:_. ~ ._ ·- . . :.P .. .. , .-•. ' , .... " ,:" :"' .";,',:-,," . . :: .. ..... _'."', ' ,.. .. . t .;
·, }~ome .; ide:a oftlle ,. pr~'9ina'1' ,.map-t.hat>g#~d~d · u$1. t!ie:re. ; Cinc1 · ,back ~ .• : Tlie:se: maps!' . . 4Q.·~~~i~;~'~~~;;~f~~1;~~~~:I~~;;~t'~~~G£~~~rn!~~i· '~~:t~~~~r~~C~e· .': ..
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"The burros were in town and ther:e was a small very gentle one that Torma
could ride. . Mr Douglas had a ' small saddle/just right for' her." Dolph
took this photo before the mov ie photographer arrived '~ ' It was her first
burro ride. "But how do you guide this animal?" The rope does not look li~e
it. would help very much. These little feliows ' stop and start "'on self­intention.
Torma does not show the confidence that she does in a iater
piC;,;l:.ure. This w:as ta·ken. near the base of the large Na:yajo Twins.; The
lone smaller twin can be seen just over the burro's ears, The stump.of
the blasted .one can be seen next to it .
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,While. this wild man makes hisrriaps. let us take a histo.rianl s view of
the events th,atl;>rought him to tl.1.is point . . Perhaps . h isto:(ian is not the
word to use iri his case .. Historiail" s vi-ews are for big people ano: big .
'e~en.ts'.His-tory would 'have been' better ,however , if th~y~ had writteii abo tit .
little .p~opl~ a~d small · e~en'ts. We'- shall call it a scribe I s vie\-{ and ' thus
put 'no stain' on the word histo'i·ian., ,One qannot wr-ite a true . story about
himse.lf . Dolph has ,:bnlytold you what happened ,and not all of thae;wi th' ,:
no stateme,ntas to . why it took that ' tur:n. We do not . ciaim to be. ab1.etq:
'do it, ~ither. ,·· W~are not ' SUrE:! of thee ~actlocation ,or t h e nature of .
the' causesthatdiove·him. to ' .this ' .hew venture, and hissava'ge will .to ge:t'
on with it: nQ.- matter how many obj:~cti~ns are made • . The s~eds may liet()
riearthe 'surface 'and we may dig too ,deep to 'findt.herh\ NO' histol:.:Y is, .
ev~ r true,but ' theii:fe of any person has interest , and at least ,has t;he :
.' .. ; . ' . -."' ". - .' . . ~ . ' . .' '. "! .
appearance of truth andin .IDOs,!: cases serves the same p\,lrpose~ In order .
·to . wri te obJect·ivelyabo'ut.aperson one 'm\,l'st: know them very weI],. and ... '.,
knowing them itis ·ditf;i.cult ,·to decide . which ·to tell and' whidlto le~ye .
. unto~d. ·: . "., - . ~ ". . ', ' --- .
If. the reader ' h~'s read Dolphls story 'from the ' first burning de-sire ·.eo··
ride!3-riton<ithe: Monument.s 'of, Mbnumen't Valley to the sadencli!lg of the '
Great , Monumerital :,aighwaytrip h.e may get the. impression that .'th.is , boy :
· was a -bit '; "wishy-~ashyn~ ·. How else can youa'ccount. for ··, his' sudden inte.rsst .
in a bl.lrro tr ip . afterpr'ompting' a Scenic HighWay o'f Nat :iOrial - tmp~rtanc'e?
· .The uncoverect :. f-act's will. show-that' h'e ' did nat wa:ver • You might . char(~Je ' .~. ' .' - - .. : } -", '., . . ') . ::'"
him wit h .poor ' judg~inentarid · lackofp;t:"oper · :~. ime :for action, or with utte'r.' ..
lack, of bus inesssense ,but never .could you ' say '~f him that ' he was the . '
least bit il!decisive. Wbateverhe cWeritat 'he went :f;or it with allthat ''''
he" had andunw~vering~ ' 'He wa's':willi119 to risk. all on the . ,coming episode, , '
even his wife andthree· ... year"';old '·daughter. She ~' WcilS three' inApri1.and .... ". :
thiswasJu ly~ Butwhy? '. . '. '. . .... , .. ' . ' . ,.' ' ..
, . ' He ' netTer ' felt.- ffiuch .interest ·inthe· BriQ.ges',but othersdid ~ and:tf, th.at~'
'j"nterel5t could bring' noticeforMonllinentValley he . was:v/:i.l l :l.rigtogo: to :'
'. th~Bridges . ~Hehad . left.· the' promotion : of M()riU:m~ntalHighway . in'the hdnds
of Dr ~opk ins . His ' on'e : andon~yilyt:~res'twa~, publ:i..ci'ty :for ., theVailey'of:·
the S~one 'Giants and' this· was. anotller'f(.lay to get it·. He, ·was " like J, ch~cken .. ,
Little .11 a ' pi~c¢ of the skYhadfa:\.leh" ' onhirh ,anClhe wari~edto :te-ll th.e ' ,
wholeworld 'about ' i t.A;Ls9 'there. was justaba:rechancethat "the' w,orl,d '\
would"paymoneyfo:t ~ ~heriews, and m\ce:, the neWS go,t .ax:ound 'roadswouia' b~ ,
built and 'Monuinenta'l . Highway would no ,long.er . ~be ' a : ' dream.~'- Thli; ~s the': .' ."
only- .thing ·h,e ' could satvagea::fte:r ' ~he ·'~o.ss ~ ~f ,h~sca~.' If'e'g:t<abiedit~nd .
I"hugging' ,the delus,ive 'ppa,ntom of 'hop" ' hu:tri~dhome with ,-it and all parties .
c;oncerri.edwere .'; to ~ see" it 'as he saw it • .-:.- '; . .,.' '. ...
. The event$ ' th~t , ted up to the loisofthe 'car should :be, tola.. ·Hehad .. ..
taken ·th.e" .agef.lc'Y ' for •. l?aige- ' an9 I-1a~e~llcars ,; without".' anymqhey~ \\Titho\,lt, ca~ .
~nowl: e dge ~witho·~.t agar ageo;r, .anymeans ,of:givin,g servi<!!e, ~i :thguta ; ,
c6~trac,t. · Tl1e agreement with the Idah,o:';'MotO:t , Company was simply a ' veJ;b ~l
·stateme·nt. : fromtheipresident of the ::cornpany :"We ",:ill g.i ve i.YOU ade<3.1e~,: 115
'price on , all ·you· ,can: se:l.l . in ' GraJidandS"ahJuanCQuntl es~ 1I \ . .. . . .
. . The first : ctarhe soldwas 'a ,l?aige~ .:·Whe'n ' he ·.wenttosait· Lake to ·cief ·.
· it the' Compa~y ha.dqr opped tl"ieP'aige>line ' and take'n . oil '~the ; Mitcool1~ iHe. ,
' .. ' , .-". .. .. ::' '.: .. ....." - . ' ' ... ' :",", '. . ,"", ' I . . 4elivered :a -Mitchell, tothe · man, who>hadb?u.ght a Pai ge. This dj,d n ot:! gi:ve:
hima 'reputatioI}' .for ,stcibilitiy. ', The ina:ptopk '·.it because pdlph was l~tting
him ha've i tat 'i:'os't~ - The 'first car was 'a ,.7 -passenge:r , becausehewa nt~d: .
to' get a smalJ,:'er 'f,ii;tchell int.o the "territory he. sol d . a 5-passE:l1ger model , .
. also citco'st,' · Business was b·oomi~ •. ~ He · beg~n pl.l~h:i.ng ' th~ . Maxweii ~ . ' .' ". - .. '. . . . " '-.' . . :. .
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PLATE J11
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The Windpte
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DQI" T BIT YOUBSELF, II GULCJIED·
Leg.ndl •••••••••••••••••• •••• ~a11 you should have ta~en.
+++++~++++++++++++++++.~~il you took and got yours.lf "Gulche4"
There are no running streams
of water in these canyons, except
in very early spring from the
melting ,snow,or from a summer
thundred shower. There are a
few springs. The walls are high
and steep. Very few places
where you can get in and get
out. The water marks on the
canyon walls record the
size of these Summer
Streams of Water .
Fig 1
.. ..+..­+..
...
~ '" . t~o • .. J.t • You
of the
have taken the wrong tr ai l++++++ When you , reach • the bottom
Gulch you are confronted by a wall.There seems t o be no way out.
You go down the canyon
thinking you can find a small
canyon that will let you out.
You come to a good place for
a waterfall i f you had the
wAter ,but now it is an im­passable
ledge.
So you try
up another
canyon to
mee t another.
ledge.
..Jr1ioo"". .. t- t
Fig 2
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So you return
to your starting
point,go on up
the canyon to
find the right
trail and out
you go. You have
been "Gulched"
• and you say,
''''So what?No harm
,: done is there?"
"True, but you have lost considerable time an~ worn out yourself
and your stock. But the worst danger is in remaining in the canyon
too long and getting caught in a summer flood. Look at the high water
marks on the canyon walls. You must not spend any time in these places.
Get in and qet out as quick as you can.
(The above is my .emory of a sketch drawn for me by Mr Douglas to
explain the meaning of the expression "Getting Gulched.") (See Plate III
Same situation only we went up the "Gulch" and p icked up the other trail
Plate V
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' ~~:~Ork'ed ' theM6~b ' a:rea w:Lth'vigor, maki.ng many dernonstratiohsandhad
,many, sale$ 'tio., . the " alIriost" ' pOiI)twhencthey·:tqok· j:he . agency away ii'om
'hiritand' gave.i t '.to~ " tb·~ . Mda:P .GqF~geqqmpa,~y," b~~aus~they co~l<i ' gi,'ve '
, servih~to : ti1e , ' c~r$ sOld.'! 'Within a ,month,;, t:;he M9ab , Garage "Company ,had
~bi.q · tw6 , cario~cHi · b~fMa~ell·~: · ire .:wa$aiways "too ,spon q.tther'ight.
pt(i:ce ,with' h:C:>.t, eI)()~gh,~ ' . .... <.. ":':",,'j , , : ' , . ' .
' . ~: 'This was' alsQ ':true , abo.utMonuine,ntValley. The'~place diq. ,beqome well
kn6,wri " mov;ie~W'e~emade ;. ther~>r6·ads· were'· b'j.iflt and Monument ' Valley : became ;.
the~,~ mostph~t~grapn:ed._ ~ E:;Eot~ri" tit~ ,tjh:~t~d S'taJ:~~~ ' This ,al1too~Plac=e .
~:~l:<::~q:~P:::;+::.:1:~~;2;;:::~':nt::::::~h::t:~: r::a++
blaztri.g ' man , wb\~ld', neve~" l~e'V~rCQmeh.qme ·to us " fr0m ~ this: Monumental ,
H~ghway ' trip i ':Afb'erthe ' estiipatea ··.time '·fbr . the ' ~r ip" hact passed ' we .. ' start~ ·
e~4 .our ' watch~ng/w~iting ~liste;n;i.ng ' fP;r ' thesQ).lrid · 'of ,the · 1;i tt.ieoldl-1ax~ " .
~eli, ;'ca'r;day, ;: a-£te£" 4aY/ aite£'day "wbrrying, 'taki ng', ,care. ·ofthe , Post Office - .
'~~~~n1~~~~~i~·~~_:~h'i~i.,~:t :':.O~~~ :.kn~·~ .• hO~' :WOr.~ ~ed.~~: .~·~ally' .was ·~·.; goir:g : on
:,' " We '-:had a : hei!.vyr:ainand · a'flo()d~ 's ¢a:re; We ,hadt9 :get-UncleKumein's ' "
~~~;~~~ ::B\lt ·£itia.,lly cm~ ~rn'inSJ' : wli~nwe ' J::la~l · a.II"(l6stgiven up 1h{)pe' , we >he~rd ' his .
hea~y ..• tir~d <:fO{)tsteps: •. pn .· \:h~ ; Pbrch'l'\-le , crieil . ·];:>oth' t6getiter ,','DOlph': '-Daddy! I, ·
was ., .:
iIi :'Salt Lake -
fnet ,~ th)!>SlTiO~fOn.\ ·pl:ct:qr~man "'apq. ,thfLtrl.ptq · the~:q.dges . planned Twas " .'
' .. ' .
Qr ~ere .. as;Leep ;Lf " h.9m~"I .·:,t,o?~ , · rn;~( li~tl~, tru'l\~ o ~' love" let,ter's ' arid k:~ep , "
sakes ... school .: t;hem~s etco. ;';read "them, 'all' wi~l(~a", lwnp~, in / my' throat' and ',a .'
; ~~~ ] 'he: 'had- '.nbthirigt6 .bririg.,:h,omewith :1ii~ .. a~d ; ,~bi~s' t:r; ip ;'. wc\"S·sorne·:thi'rjg . to· " ~ . : .
•· ; ~~!·~~:i~t~~~i"1~~~~t7~4[!;~: iMt7!~f~:~!~ii~~~::~n~!m~t!~~tn1~ · . ;.;
the:..l1uman. . bre~st' ~ M~n never", :L·s : b:titalw~y.~ , tol::1e " blest ~ " Well , I · did ·not ·
.·.~~~rt~ft_~:;~:t;~~r~t:n!1l;:!.u7A\<!~7f~;~di;" ,.;"~~-~!~~~. ,.Iq;,O: ...•.••.• ·1,
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burros: carries no pack
was' -Qur . "s·pare. II Next is .
",·r,rn. ,."" s burro ~ with empty
saddle. Next awhite~faced ·
. ro with pack, then the
large -blackburro ·who carr~
the ·camera.Then. Torma
.. our one hOFse. Change of
saddle is as .gOdd as a rest :
Iren~ stands near the c~mera
~ro looking at the ground
ie is look~ng up the
and "is sure it is
right one." Dolph is at
e ~ear with .hand on c~~n
need to look at · the map
k~ows wbat it says,but:
·does a · canyon · 100]< to
.most 'important.We have
s~ed several that looked
Ciemtook
-=-",.-; ' ...
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IMPORTANT CANYON ON YOQR
LEFT. THIS WILL BE ROAD
CANYON. DO NOT GO UP THE
CANYON VERY FAR . . GET OUT
ON THE MESA AS SOON AS
YOU CAN. " This was our
first inst~rictibns on the
.map .~See PLATE II) ~
It. .' •
-l Pag,e ~ 53 ;.We met Leonard jones,~ ~r~ne's cousin,and Ozro Hunt. They had been out with the cattle for
so~e - time_nd were returning home. Th!='y checked ,our map with Dolph and added many landmarks and in­stuc'tions,
especially 'how to find Cigarette Ca';e. We will give you that one when we get there. They
\..r~r7 :leading .an extra hors'e withempt;y saddle ~ ' Leon~rd insisted that we take it a long with us. '-.-:" ,.- ................ --.-----_._.-:-- .- ... -
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i'on the march" after we got our extra horse. Not much o f t he c ountry was open l ike t h is.
mesa was covered with a thick growth of junipe r (C edar) Page 53 is t yp i ca l o f t h is g r owt h .
,
had a feast like this patch of clover. No wonder
Page 55 , of'the night before. Do'lph was up and after
covered much of the route, twice. One of the
or o ur an l ma S f ut once in , a while they
Durros returned night after night to the camp
them before gaylight. He and the burros thus
gears Ears can be seen in the far distance.
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s is about as close as we got to the Bears Ears. Thi$ photograph was from the highway
years ~ater. It was difficult to locate Grand Flat where we were told to "turn our back on the Bears Ea'rs. The bulldozers had changed the landscape a bit . . They were a fi'ne guide post as we went
"t<>ward · th~m.,but they c~uld not' help us find the. proper trail as we left Long Flat. (See Plate III low-
.' .... ,erright-hahd corner. fierew~re two trails, but a herd of cattle had been "loafi'ng" around here and
.. only o'netrail was visible - tl1e wrong one. . The trail into the canyon was , steep and had many sharp
, :; . drops. 1 was , leading Torm' s burro wi th her on it. He jumped over one of these ledges ahd Torma came '
' ... ' J~:.yingthrOughthe air over pis, read. I ' caught her :under my arm and thus prevented any injury. She
.,.wa.lke,d . the . rest ~ of t1}.e way to the bottom. ' A solid wall confronted us on the other side. There was
. ' n~ w.qy · out • . T remembered the\ drawingMrDouglas had made ontheground(See Pl~te V) 'and went up the
:~, <~l,ah'f ' ~n~~ead C?~ doW? We did no~ get .. ourselyes \'gulched and soon found a good trail ou~, also
" 1Jaw · thef tra11~hatwe should have come1n on. It'W'as not so steep as .the one we used. The so called
. · ·' P " i&~ ,7,.:.:, :.. ~'Fl'g..t$u:JJ0i1g, Mormon,' (JFand a~nd ~Harmony, wer~really no flater than the rest of the ground.
" .. :~ "~" They ~e~e natural clearingS in the dense junipe:.;-sand 'cove:t;ed with small brush.. Not always
· ' ~:a.s,ito iden.tify, but often' q.. urdirections were 'dependant on their location • .
. '
This part 'of the trail was not sh'own in large scale on the other maps .
the small scale map(Plate I)it is the se~tion west of Plate II and south
of' Plate 11'1. We come back from the Bridges on the .same trait that we 't~
went out on. Long Flat-Todie Flat -Coyote Flat,~ut at Brushy Flat we ' .~
turn south and leave the Mormon Trail. Here is where we follow the land­marks
land instructions given us by Leonard f o r fi nding Cigar ette Cave and
Spring. The map is a reproduction o f a recen t one purch a sed i n Los
Angeles at the ' Westwide Map Center . . _'-"\' . ,Hums,;:,"ch\ fV" ~_\..
~~~I \ ~ .~ , ,,L/ .~.~. ,ID"II Ho'e . . '-, . \ . \, '\ \, •.
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I~ </ }" If th~ ;::"~er Willtu~-to page";'; to
-"'-I_~\ .r-'\ .' C' il' . --'\ the lP~oto of three men and a map I will
" \.. ~~~ exp aln a bout Irene' s cousin Leonard' -
_s.B-,*:~-;-;,-> r- ........ " the man with the Leather Chaps and t he
_<"y.r'" / dark face with thick lips. He had been
~_.. .. ", ,, \ out on the range ' for a l ong t i me and
."" i~ 6 3," the wind and sun had made his lips sore
and swollen. The bright s un and the
, shade of his wi de hat caused the ~amera
/ ,-, · .-r.~r~-;:;;;;" to make him l ook like an embl em of r
the southbound
trail when we couid see. a rock that;.
looked ' like a ":sitting duck". Again we
were warned to ;. stay on the mesa and
, =,~-,_ ..... ' not enter any caI)yon. II . I have been un­able
to 'locate the "sitting duck 0:(1 this
"b l ac k power. " It wa s along the Mormon '".
Trail at t his p oint that we met him. J
~'M~~~.:..J:.~~~,,;.J:...~/ lV.. : ....". ~~~"""'J"'-"'i.c-----".....:.~.~
~ 3h __ 0
. &tl'aced) .Q;W[ s;teps to the Sitting, Duck .... 0 " 'P\"
It was noon when w.e, arrived there. We
w~re'faced with a decision .. Should, we !f-.'+,;:;<;-;"'~,..--,"",
go n.orthto,B'rushy Flat and : take the
Old Mormon Wagon Road ' for Bluff
ca~I it ,quits, or ' should we ,take
southbound trail for the · Valley
Gods' andJMonument valley?
a deep canyon
is no way to ' get to it from
the canyon. You come in from the mesa \>
right ' over the roof of the cave to i
. the' entrance. II
"" .
/
We took the trail south. We had nothing to guide us e~cept the warning
to stay out of John's Canyon. I have not been ab l e to locate our trail
on this map, but somewhere along this rim we came to a view of the Valley
of the Go.ds and Monument V9~~eY-I!1?-de us glad ·that we had taken the south
trail. We co~ld not photograph and I cann~t · describe it. From ' this ";/
point a steep crooked trail led to the bottom. I have not been a b le to '
locate it on the ~ap,but it was there and by evening we were camped on
the .West· Fork of ,Lime Creek.
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West Fork of
Lime Creek
Franklin ' '/7 ....
Butte
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( ')Rooster
Butte \.:
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G O e D S
Settin&tHen - ),
,.B utte I,
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Dr dl Hole ,,?~:---~
(OLYMP1CGARDENS)
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See 'Photos on
following page~
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Rl'. ghW'ay 47
to Me'" ~ l.can
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J ~ .' I . / r
GETTING - LATE FOR ptCTURE-TAKING WHEN WE ARRIVED AT THE MITTENS"
I am not sure whether the photo on the opposit e page was our last "shot"
or not. I have 'said that it 'was on page 20 No 7 , but now as I look over
the ' many ,photos I am not so sure. It may havebee:p t he one of the Mitchell
and Merrick Buttes shown in the lower right corner of page opposite :)..8.16.
It looks more like , it, had been taken in ,the fast fading light.
Of one thing I am sure is the difference of opinion that we , had over the
direction of Calnp. This I have t~ld about ' on page , 20 under numbers 8 and 9. ,
,I shall not ,go over ,it again ,and 'I have no further cp~ent to make about
- ~t. , , ,
Where I am shown standing by the car in the sand I am wearing a white
' shirt. This may ~eem strange as the ' season was late November. The days
arewarmialmost, hot. Yes veryho't when you are fighting sand with a car
in the bright clear surishine ,b,ut the nights are' cold.
The white shirt and trousers wereEor warm weather' and for , the cool
nights L carried a ' sweater and covera~ls. This ' is what ;r have on as I
stand near the ,spo,twhere the Navajo Tribal Park Building riow 'stands.
You can see the white shirt collar above the coveralls. '
.On the , right you can see a dead juniper tree. This. was the kind of
,material available for Hogan building. One of the rul~s for' good arch­itecture
is to make tbe best possible ,use of the material available. By
this s ta,ndard the old Navajo Hogiui wa~ good a r chitecture. " '
, Si n ce the Hogan ,shown on the previous page was located near the
Mitten s and I have no f.urther , cortunenton the Mit t ens , I t hought it right
to say a few words ' about Hogans and the People ' that lived in them.The
Navajos regardthemselv;,es , as liThe People,. II ,
'It is quite evident from looking , at the Hogan that th,e builder had
access ' to a 'better supply of timber than the one shown in the photo, as
there are some' longer and straighter~ticks in· the structure. Some of '
the 'areas, like the tops ,of the 'mesas 'have growths of larger and straighter
juniper. Why was the m~,t:erial'transported to this particular ,spot? . . - . . - . , .
The ar.sweris water,the most preciOUS thing on, the Navajo Reservation.
The Mitten Spring was not far' from the Hogan . Was is the correct word
" for the ' spr ing' is now dry, orwa,s in 196.0 when Irene and I ' vis i ted the
Navajo Tribal Park. The guide informed us that it , never had been very
dependable ,and had finally 'dried 'up entirely. We were to have an ex­periencewith
itsfickleness,but that,comes later in our story.
'I dO'not wish to pose' as anauthorityC5nthe Navajo people. I can only
speak from a ' lj.,mited contact with them in Bluff and on the ,few' trips ' I
roadethroughthe., Rese~vation.Perhaps it is different now, but at that
time 1915-1918 it was difficult for me to understand ~heir great love
for that barren almost; waterless larid.Taken from ,it and placed in ,a
school 'with modern buildings, green ' grass'and trees, they learned the white
mans language and skills, but always their " greatest desire seemed tabe
allowed to return to the homeland.
, , .
I remember well a young "graduate" from the SChool atShiproclr" New
," Mexico- who "calleCl :for his maii at the ' ~ost Office in Bluff. ,' Smartly
~ressed at first he came Often to mail ' letters ,and r ecei ved a few. ais
visits grew farther and farther apart. His dress grew ~oreandmore like
the older members of his 'tribe. He alowedhis hair to grow long. ' Then he
qu i t c oming altogether. The land 'he loved had swallowed him ',up, I asked
him one day why he did not stay at Shiprock. He just smiled and did riot
answer my question' .. Well I sometimes : get a longing to ' return to Dixie.
18.12
~ : LEGEtfl)
· ,A ... We cameou ,,0
.~- l ' ==Sev~ri- SailQJ:' -Flag Butte rscot.dhman' But,t~(What did, 'We ~ cclll . . , , l' _ .' '. • . ..'
· ,~ ~ 2;~ = Rapl,ee "s S.'toner House . -'OnlY one :r knew 'wa's on tl)eRi ve,i i
,." :<;" . _ • ...,t , _. ' • . ' ' :t' " , . . .... ." " _' . " ' ,'i - . • · ~ ' '''2+ = -: Rapl~,e 1,$ Sf.b~,e House on the River {Stpr~ ~ on~C!lg'e~ 29~ . '"
, ~ . ,3' . = '1510 ' orie ever called this 'rock, by ,any ' other namei·. ',' . ,.
,: 4 '.~ .. To us Spencer'sTr~i:tig ""PQst('Photo on :Page P~ge 91)
'if ': : "5" ~Top . , PhotQ ,on. Page-Y.9l 'was tak.en at' this poi nt. :~" ,'.,
· '5 .; '6.t A~h~t~ sh,~ ~ri~-,:upper 1:' ight :~OJ;~ne,; 6£ PhO~o',~,a~ ~~:'~.·;:; .;,,-,l'b'-JNoK'->';:-
• 8 - Pl.ck up our tral.l lat .l! on ne~ map pa.g.,e 85 . . ... '-'I
·~!.~~7 '"'S2i
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f.:alga:~·I:"6' '. f~~~;·'·~· .1 .. " . 8~. ~-'~ ''>''~*~~~~~s;~~,,-d.:7~P:14' / / " / / '~:~?~K - Sprmg 10 ' , ~. . . _ . /{./ \ ~- " / ;-; -~-, ~ '" .. Al£'.,..~_ / ' ./ , .' 1,-' . '~ - IJ . l" '-..A. '. . . I -./ R ~'FJ,/ S{ \ E R V ~,~ ~'/ :r . ~ I t\
:~/ -,. ~~+ -~ ~ :~:;~~.:'~~'~ ' :Bru~.. .. " '. ·;;'I1L. '~I - r S)... ' '''' '0 l . /' /' . ./ ~ , : , /~. ')
A ' f,'!~"-:" , ' . .' ': I? / / . • ~.:/V",= -'" . "\ /" ' . \. ' " ~ .&
l, . '.' ~ '. ~_ \ , _, '--. ~., ' • - - ~ / ~/i / /r ' : ' i.I,,-. ' .f.;) \ ........ \ . '~A\~-'./ ...'.. ' .'
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;..> -"-. ;. ~ ...., I _, " ' ,,, ~;~:to ~? ,J . . ..::.,;v~, 't , .( ':" ,... "" , . -.~ ( - ~ · . 0 . , \ , ;,'io' , \ ~ j " .
?i. LEGENO' ; . j . -r?7-.. 506~ (
> I B = Pick up our trail , from previoq,s map on page 84. , . L '{ L. r- . ' E5"." v (
+'918 7= ,None of. this was here when we passed ' this way the Sununer of 1917. . J
8 - It was at this point .that Jenni.e got her information straight from,the · "o.!" :51 ""';/
. .
. ~.
ro
lJ1
lips ' of an old Indian concerning the wat,erof Halgai toh Sp~ ings. " -I.. ., ..1J · fJ 'lY.~./.' ..•.. ....
9 ' ;= D, Andruskilled a cottontail rabbit here. Our ' first fresh meat.
'. . 1-. '. . . ,l /' . / 10 ,= Halgaitoh 'Spring. The name given to us was Huckatoh. We were told that. . \ ""'';--
. th~ name' meant "wate:r: that makes you loose as a ' goose. II We' tried to /f fly. .
• • ' . . . . ', J . cook beans ·1.n 1. t and the lo:qger they ,bo1.led the harder they became. ' /
It was a· sattiratedsolution of Epsom 'Sal ts and other minerals. The bushes " f
were short I but .there wa:s a deep arroyo .t1).at furnish~d the ~eeded cover for . ",-.. ./.
the required action. ~
C = Pick up our trail.'~ at "e" on the next map on page 95. r •
"'I, ... It
"r / ' \I
,. --- " \I .' .S
.i
\ '
,-f. •
"
_ Gouldings Trading po~t. This was not
tbe MittenSpr:L.ng dry I looked toward this mesa and saw ' ~ small shower
'droppi~9 r~in ; on it.. '1;., felt sure there would be pocket;'i~~ ~n the sand-.
s,.tone tltat would catch and. hOld wat~r. I took one of ~1'\e'i!horses and
rode for it with 'a wat~r bag ' to bring back water. .
5 -Somewhere near herie I came to a large pond of water under. a shelteritl\CJ
.cl:Lff with a. l:tli!eje "round, window in it. ' -This spot 'has l3een:' rttucYr :se~n ~'.,
ill pictures of Monument Valley. I filled the wa.ter bag and ret~rned '
to the dry Mitten Spring to' find my thirsty people cam~d at a new ' .
location.of the . spring ' just over the hill from the 61d .pne. See photo
and ,story on page 103. ' .. - ", ' .1 .
F'~ ~After ccunping 'at 5 for a ' time we took the trail' for Kayenta and .
intended to goon from there to the Rainbow Bridge. Turn to Map'on
~ 'I page 98. lJ\
110"15'
c/' Mapp'~d , edi!et ~Iogical Survey
~~.J. in cooperation '_ . ;oinmission
00\.,1 Cont rol by USGS . ... __ v~J
,~ '}~
Topography by photoarammetric methods from aeri;al
'. 1 0 . . --- . . .-.
_5
LEGEND i "
C
D
' E
F
=
=
=
Conn~ct
"
It
II.
our
II '
"
"
,
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trail with
" "
'" " It
" It
-.
"C" Map on Page 85
"D" " ~ " II , 99
liE II II II " ~8
"F" It It " 98
i 1 = ,We were on the same road that I had taken with the Maxwell Car in
,June a month before. In spots where the clay had been moist the pril1ts ,
of ·the tires were still, visible. Wepass~d the old mocking ,monuments
with no thought of stopping to photogr.aph them. We -were headed for the
'Mittens and water. How much slower the miles go by with burros instead
of 'autos. The Mittens appeared and looked like they 'were 'so near. But
they were far. Anima;ls and people were thirsty and tired 'when we reached
there with .the sun fading fast in the west. 1 had predicted that we would
, . I ' . .
be there for lunch. N~ver put your trust lnl a m~n who has drl.ven a car
over a road when ' he goes over ' the same road behlnd a burro. He has very
'fittle idea of time and distance. " " ,1 •
'3 2: Photo'on page 107 was taken at ' this point.
4 ,: ,Phot'o . page. . 1.Q:9. .. was., taken. at ~ thkf?~ , P-9.int •. . _ .
5'
v " ' ,, '
L>~ ·~~~ .
'.
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,--'
. r-..- :: ... ~ .. /
"'98
. ('
Page 95
'87 223 L.....,.. .. t --0 - --~--- -------" . ,.,'
I NTERIO R -GEOLOG IC AL SU R VE't' ""'A S H I N ." ' O N 0 <- "" 9 6 ' T 11 00.00'
I ROAI. CLASSIFICATION
'I'
I
\
! '!'
7 = When we reached this point Clem said he could go no farther~ The bad
water and the ' heat had done him in. We were in s.ight of Agathla Peak
,known to us as El Capitan. See page 15. Clem took a Telephoto shot at
it and' we started for Bluf;Evia the Mitten Spring • . _
8 = El Capi..tan is about a mile off the map in this direction.
c< «; ,;'f':,", ,
~I'
-.! : r
\ ,/, ',J • ~
9. = We passed some iarge sand dunes.. See photo and story on page 105. \
I
Page 98
tf Dwelling
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J
faJIl,~itten
,,'~e
~
5 16 4 ,
y- 1 8fu
4980 0 1'"
><1<5
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<>983
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Suns Eye
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+- 1 • " I Meri~ _
Eilitte' -: I "·l
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LEGEND ~- --" 1
1)' = Connect with our trail at "D" Map on page 95
' 6 = When we arrived at the Mitten Spring it was dry. See picture and read
VABJr04
~ ~ atory on page 101.
12 = We were camped here the morning the camera was stolen. From here
I walked and run to the locations 3 and 4 Map bn page 95 with photos
on pages 107 and 109. This is also the approximate location of the
N~~~jo Tribal V{sitor~ Center.
I
'C
".l;, ~; ~, .
,C" .
0,/
, \
y
i
:.. / ' .
10 = We took our last "fling" on this trail to the Totem ' Pole. We called
it the , Needle but the name did not stick. It took some talking to get
Clem to go. It was cruel o;f me,for he was a sick man,b1lt I just had
to get a 'picture of this monument~ See story on page 18.16.
11.= Our camp at the Totem Pole(Needle) Photo on page Ill.
Page 99
If I have tried to make myself look good in the narrative just fin­ished
it was because I needed to be built up . ,I wa.,s feeling.,very. low at
times. I was b~ginning to s~art from two wiorig decisions tha~ had been
made dur ing the Spring of 1917. I had ~on c luded not to return to Irene' s
Homestead on the side of Black Mbunta in ,and not t o teach school any more.
We had been informed, and I .have forgotten the informers n ame , that we
could not sec ure title to the land unless we lived on it six months every
year. We had never 1 i ved on it more ·than three months each year. (See ;
page 26 ) You might think t here were other reasons if you read the page
referred to above . Well go ahead and think them. As far quitting ~he
teaching'of school, it happened ,like this :When I started teaching in Bluff
I was under . contract with the Bluff School Board . The second year the
local board was out and control had passed to the San J uan CouD;ty School
Board ' and hiring of teachers was in the hands of the County Superintend­ent.
The spring of 1917,he i nformed me that unless I went · t o Summer School
and obtained additional credits I could riot teach the winte~ of 1911-18.
I told him I would rather quit than go to Summer School.
I had no interit:Lon o f leaving Bl uff and Irene was willin.g to stay.
Our'problem was how to make a living. The ~ost Office did not pay enough
to feed us to say nothing of cfothin~,~ent e t~. World War One was just
getting started as indicated by the Draft;: Card shown be low. We had re-sponded
to the call to raise a Victory Garden. We not only planted the ~
" / . lot we we~e ll.v l.ng on but fenced and planted a vacant lot, back of the
Co-op Store . This was a big help to our food budget but paid us no money.
Wi th ' a strong desire to becom8 .an auto mechanic I purchased a book on
Auto Repair, studied it eagerly and considered myself the best there 'was
in town. I pad been called in a few c ases and had s uccess with some minor
repairs, but I had no place to ;work . There was an old shed in the back
corner of the lot where we l ived, but it was awkward to get a car ihto and
not satisfactory to work in anyway,.
When September came we were asked to take over the farm'and home of
the Scorup Family. Their home was one of the best in Bluff. (See Photo
on Page 115) The owner ' was James A Scorup I a we,a,l t hy cattle man with a
large family of girls. Some of the older , girls were old enough to enter
the BYU in Provo and the mother wanted to move in order to be with them .
He did not want to sell the home a~dfarm at that time. He needed the hay
f rom the farm to feed his saddle horses and, team .. . He offered us the house
if we would look after ' the farm an'd, put . up the hay. He would let us have
'. My Draft Card indicates that
World War One was being felt
in. Bluff. There were no riots
or "draft dodgers"in Bluff .
There was outward ~alm but
underneath there was alarm and
suspense. The number 14 doe s
'not mean that I was early to
register . · Ther,e were so few
men of draft age in Bluff that
No 14 mi ght have been the last
to register. Would I pass the
physical ?What class would the
board place me in ? (Page 114)
as many cows as we wished t 'o take care of and there was fruit in the
9rchard and chickens in the coop,but best ,of all there was a garage in
which I could" set up shop as a fixer of cars. The bulk of the chickens
we were to kill,dress and send to Provo as soon as freezing weather came.
That was the "feather in the chicken coopi' and there "was a fly in the
house ointment" that made the house less acceptab le ,bvfwe took his
offer and moved into a house with moder n plumbing. Th e "fly in the
ointment" that affected the house was poetic justice in a way . During
the summer,but mostly in the early 'spring I had done considerable painting
in various homes in Bluff. Mrs Scorup had hired me to paint the walls
of her l,.iving Room. She had selected a very dark green,so dark it ,was
almost black. Ittied to talk ber out of'it but she insisted and I did
it. Now I was to live with those horrid green walls.
The house was a large two-story sandstone buil~ing,since it had a
usabie attic you might say that ,it was 2~ s tori e s ~ (See photo on page 115)
Mr Scorup reserved one room for himself .when he would coine i n from the
cattle range on his way to Provo. This situat ion lent i tself at an'in-
Economy was the watchword."Lick
your plate' and lick the Kaiser'~
was the slogan ~ One card was
pr inted for the entire ''0. S. ¥\
Rubber Stamp was given ,6;q.;ch Local
Draft Board . I tried to show the "
addres s side of my cl~ssification
card in t his space,but the stamp
way too dim and did not take so
I fake it with the typwr iter .' in
space at the left. ,There is no
date on the card so I cannot tel;l
when I rec eived ,it.
FAKE COpy OF ADDRESS SIDE OF CARD
Below is a fac s imile of my classification card. It says I have been
finally classified ' and recordet l. ' in Class 4 ~. , I had passed the _ physical
e xamination and was s1.lbject to cCl.ll until this ca~d was received.- Now I .
/ • . - . ,C' ~ T - ~ ~~~!~ ~~\~:~:!l~da~~t~\:~\:~n
, L ( ' Y; ' ~~¥i.BQ~ :FOR" ~;"i' ; '~ ' ! n, ' called up . It was quite a relief I
Sto.leotrt:wi, I,l'Jllli~,>,_: i~i, \ ,h au. '''; although IfE?,1t strongly about the
--- - --- - - - - ----- ___ _ , ___ c_ ',' justice of our cause and would
QJqisC!!rrtitil'st!}at_; . .JJ , ),~~.ji~;~~~~:_~,= ,::4 have gone 'gladly if asked. I , ,., / " .,' 3'!.-~+I . . was surprised at my physical. I
Order No / v (7 S' , '-----------, . er),U;;:,1J 1N 'o . ,_.._ ._._ __,_ A_ __"_ _ , has been finally h-"'a d , never regar d'e ' d ' my: se If ' a· s
much 'in t h at l i ne, but the Doctor
seemed 't'Jell' pleased with 'what he
found. It ,was my ancestor,s fault
arid I could take no blame or
brag about it either.
Page 114
\ '- - --'-
1
1
1
cident that has never been explaine¢l.. One night / long after we had gone
to sleep we were awakened, by footstep~ on the stairway . We were sleeping
upstairs as the only downstairs bed room was in use as a Post Office .
We / of course thought it wa.s Mr Bcorup / but we never heard him open hi's
door. ' We did not hea~ any noise of any kind ' after that. The next mc5rning
Mr Scorup ' did not come down ,:Eor breakfast because he ,was not t-here.' He ,
did not come in from the range until two weeks later. Who made the foot­steps?
We were told that it might be a wandering Indi an. How did' he get
downstairs? The stairs squeaked . We would have heard him for we slept
but very little the rest.of the night and very lightly at that.
'The farm was all in alfalfa and wa's located, on the Cottonwood Wash
near the Locomotive Rock(Photo on p 'age 45) .The irrigation water was
supplied bya well at the base of, the rock. The flow was qu~tesmall,s o
an earth dam had been built across a small ravine t0h61d the wa.ter.,
When rele'as'ed at irrigation 'time there was a good sized stream.
, I was a farmer now with team/wagon/mowingma.chine and hayrake. But
best of all I had a garage in which to start roy auto repair business. I
shall not bother you with the detail involved in the moving of the Post
Office; or , my few odd ' jobs onc;ars. I ' shall mention "one repair j~b be-c
a use it brought results least expected. '
. Willard Butt/had . a DOdge car that was not performirig wel~ and he .
'brought it to me. I suggested grinding the valves/cleaning the carbon
out of the cylinder head and installing new rings. If he had asked me ,
if I had ever done it before I would have been forced to tell him that I
had not and perhaps lost the job. He did not ask and told me to go at,
the job. His young son' watched the operation and helped me all he could.
I found the bearin<f quite loose so I tightened all of them'. When the
last boLt had been tightened and the ,last wire connected the anxiots
moment came. Would ' it start? It did and run so well that Mr Butt asked
me to come up to his farm/a ' few miles south of the road between Bland-ing
and Monticello/and look at his new 'tractor.
In the Spr ing they had been p'lowing with it. When , the ground became '
THK SCORUP HOUSE OUR LAST HOME IN BLUFF UTAH
Page 115
J
too dry for plowing they had left the trac,tor standing in the field
h itched to the plows,intending to plow again in the fall as soon as the
rains Bottened the ground. This was a dry farm. The rains came.the soil
was fit' to be piowed,butt-hey had been unable to s"tiart the tractpr. The
oldestboy,who might have been ·ableto do it had been draft~d into the
, army. ' Mr Butt asked me to come up and look it over . He took me up in his
. car. He left me with ' ,the tractor while he drove to Monti'callo on some
errand.
This was a' ease Tractor and ' it had the largest engine I had ever
worked on. It had only two cylinders ,horizontal and opposed to each
other and they were big ones. The carbureter had a bowl on it about the
size of a kitchen bowl. This was fil led with fuel under normal operation
but was now dry . Before turning the pet cock that would let fuel enter
from the tank, I thought best to 'check ' the spark plugs and the sPctrk. As.'
I removed one of the wires . I noticed a straw sticking out of the air
'intake ~o the carbureter. I took hold of it and pulled but i t seemed to
be f astened ,to something ' and ~only came out with a strong pull. I remov.ed
the large bowl and in it was a mouse 's nest with four dead baby mice.
During the summer months when the gas had evaporated a mouse mother
had built her nest and given birth to the four mice. When they had ,tried
to start the t ractor tl).ey had drowned the little mice with fuel. The
float had been stuck in a closed position a nd would not allow fuel to
pass. I cleaned,out the nest,and the engine started at the first turn
• over. I was plowing whenMr Butt came, back. He was delighted and offered
me a job running the tractor during the coming threshing season. My pay
would be $5.00 .per day. He had just purchased a new Case Threshing- Machine
or Separator a s it was called. The tractor now attached to the' plows '
~ould , furnish the power and I would be the driver and operator . Suited me
as t he pay would be ' equal to what I h ad received as a school teacher and
I lik~d t he job better. I would have time to harvest the ,crop of hay on
the Scorup farm 'before the threshing season started. He would bring me
hOille on week e nds so T could do the 'odd jobs that Irene could not do,
but it lEdt her alone with the Post o ffice, the cows, the horses, and
churning etc. How w01;lldshe take it'?
But there came an incident that wrecked the deal but did not ' relieve
Irene one bit.; Perhaps it made her problem worse. Dr Hop~ins had sent ~
friend that he had met in Kobe i ,Japan doWn to Blanding for Zeke Johnson
to take to the' Bridges,with the $tipulationthat I go along to assist the
wife of the man as she had ridden a hors~ but very little. Her husba,nd ' s
name was Faverbrant and in his French accent he put it this way."I ani
good riding, but my wife she is no good riding." Be went ' on to e'xplain
that she had ne~er ridden aborse but tince and then some ' ~ne had led i t
around. This was some preparation for an S:"day trip.
" Zeke did not want to go and had arranged for another man from Blanding
to take his place~ Would I go as Dr H6pkin~ had pledged? Mr Butt did
not ~ike the idea but he consented tO'let me go if I would take the time
to train another man to run the tract or.
Now for the next eight days I would be a ladies' man. Mr Faverbrant
was a native o£·the French speaking part ,of Switzerland and had served
in the Swiss cavalry. His wife ,was'from, the same , area but they were now
living in Kobe,Japan where his . father made cjo<?d money as a watch repair
man. F<;l.verbrant explained that , "the Japanese were alwa¥s going in their
watches with toothpicks etc" and made plenty of work for his father .
Pgge 116
J
They arrived in a Premier Car. This is the first car t hat I had ever
:::een wi th a "push Button gear shift. This was not an a utomatic trans-
-4 miss ion. CJ,utch and gear box same as "stick shift". The buttons were
connected to electric solenoid which ' shifted the gears in place of the
stick . The above is important to remember. There is a story that goes
with and comes after we get back from the Bridges.
..
Thomc;ts Alton ' Jones, Uncle Kumen's son, wa s t he man who took Zeke John­sonls
place. He and Mriaverbr~rtt rode ahead and left Mrs F~ver b ratit
for me to lift on and off her horse twenty times a day. She could ride
only a short distance' and then she would have to get off and walk. ,When
we returned ~Qmeorie asked Mr Faverbrant how he liked the Bridges. He
replied,"Nice sings dat,but Oh!yo,yo! our backsides!" and he placed his
hand where it h J rt.
The Favc: r b r ants were going from Bluff to Mesa Verde National Park
and invited u s (Torma ,Irene, and I) t'o go with them. We went , leaving the
Post Office with Ruth Jones. I guidedpim up McElmo Canyon the same
route that Uncle Kumen and I had ' gone on'ce before in his Maxwell. I
did not think that we would have any troub le at all,but I did not knOw
'about M:r: Faverbrant IS dr i ying. I was soo.n to learn . . He would say when
changing gears,"See all what I do is pu~h the button and kick."This
sudden letting up of the clutch pedal would ~tart the car' with a jerk.
I shuddered to think of what he might be doing to the car. I tried to
get him to go easy,even as~ed him ' to let me drive for awhile,but not
oh your life . He insisted on driving all the way . We had a few sandy
spots in McElmo Canyon and I knew that his method of shifting g ears
would never do in sand •
When we reached the sandy spots we. were stuck and the more he "kicked"
the tighter we stuck . He "kicked" and IkickE¥d" until there came an awful
noise from the rear end . I insisted that he let me remove the cover plate
and have a look. It was just as I had feared~ The pinion gear ~as beaten
into a shapeless mass as if it had been pounded with a sledge hammer.
The teeth were not broken, just pounded down until they would jump over
the teeth in the, ring gear which was the cause of the noise. .
While we were fighting the sand,Irene,Torma , and Mrs Faverbrant had
wa'iiked on ahead. In this section ,of'tl1e canyon the brush was tall and
there were several branch roa~s in .the wide flat/but they all came to­gether
when the canyon narrowed. I had forgot ton to warn I rene about t h i s .
When we loo~ed up the road we could not see them anywhere,so ·we started
to follow their track~ and found that they had wandered off the main r·oad.
Mr Faverbrant had his pistol in hand as he was sure the Indians had made
off with them. When we 10und moccasin track mixed with .their tracks.he
really got excited. If an Indian had showed up I fear he would have
been shot. I . pointed out that the ir tracks were on top o.f the moccas'in
tracks/but he would not believe me. Then 'we heard voices and around a
turn ~n the road we came upon them. Let Ir~ne tell you about it:
IRENE SPEAKING.
l1s we walked along,Mrs Faverbrant,Torma and I,following the directions
Dolph gave us as I understood them,I ~otinted up to ten in Navajo and ·
asked her to teach me to count to ten in Fren~h,which she proceeded to
do. Completely engrossed in the lesson ' and forgot everything else and
didn't even know that we were lost. until we got found. I didn't even re­member
that there was a language barrier between us.
~ age 117 J
I walked to a ranch further up the canyon and engaged a man with
his , team to come and pull us ' to Cortez. When we arrived at the ranch
the man said that he had a new Chevrolete that he had been unable to
start and that if I could ~tait it and would drive it to 'Cbrtez,he
would go along to bring it back and the women and little girl would
not need to stay in the slow going horse drawn car. His father would
dtive the team and bririg Mr Fave~b~ant and his Premier. '
I started the car and we were spinning along toward ,Cortez while he
admired , my driving and told ~e his trouble. He watched carefully 'as
I explained and shifted the gears. When we reached a straight smooth
qection of road ' I got him to take the wheel and he drove very well.
Of course the t~ to Mesa Verde was out'for us as we had to return '
to B'luff while Mr Faverbrant waited for the parts ' needed to fix his car.
Mr Faverbrant paid our hotel bill and hired the owner of the Ch,evrplete
to take us back to Bluff . Ashe , bade us goodbye he poked a $50 bill "ihto
my shirt pocket. This was in addition to my :t;egular pay o~ $40 for the
8~day trip to the Bridges.
I never heard anymore from·him except through Dr , Hopkins ,who received
a card from him after he got back to Japan. I wish he had written me
because the Sheriff of San Juan County vvasalway s "bugging" me about h.im
being a German Spy. When we started on the trip to the Bridges he took
the trouble to drive down ,to Bluff from Monticello to wa'rn me to watch
his movements as he was sure "that he was a Spy. In fact he said he, felt
like he should arrest him and not allow him to make the trip.
About a month after the Mesa Verde incident t he Sheriff saw me in
Monticelld and said,"They arrested your Mr Faverbrant in San Francisco
the other day. He was a spy alright." If he had only written me so I
could have shoved his card under the Sheriff's nose. I told him how
Dr Hopkins had received word from him in J~pan. He would.not believe it.
I had been harboring a spy. Hadn't he carried a barometer and recorded
all the elevations between Bluff and the Bridges? Yes and so what.?
I found myself teaching school the balance of the Winter of 1917-18
in spite of my failure to attend Summer School. The young man that
started to teach was drafted and the County Superin~endent asked me to
, ' . '
tak~ his place. Irene has two stories about this, period.Here she is:
IRENE SPEAKING.
I:n the spring of 1918 while we were living in the big 2~ story rock
house at the edge of town not far from the"Twins'" I had two frightening
experiences with four year old, Torma. ' ,
...
One day after her afternoonnap,I called to her'and there was no answer,
sO , I called louder and went all through the house looking and calling
and in the yard around the house,still no answer. Then I , did~et p~nicky
and de9ided to walk down the street toward the school hoping to meet Dolph
on his way home 'from school and get his help~ We" met a short way from
Ri(Uriah)Nielson's,~o we decided to ,see ~f they had seen a little runaway
girl a~d there she was eating away on a big p~ec~ of pie . Her £irst pie
experience. Pie was very much off her diet list. I was horrified 'about
the pie,but relieved to find her. This was very unusual behavior for her
and we were puzzled about it. ,As we three walked home we tr ied to make her
see that she shouldn't go ' off by heiself without askin~.' ~
Shortly after this;we were upstairs. I was making beds and Torma was ..
Page 118 J
}
1
I
hobb ling a~o~nd in my hig~ heeled ~hoe s ~ thi& day with her very special
doll,which had been my keepsake doll ;vith the ' breakable head t hat had my
t yphoid fever hair gl~ed on. ,She had been warned many times to be c are­ful
and not go close to the stairs with these shoes on- but right now
she decided to go down stairs so she did, head over heels bump, bump to
the ' bottom. I almost , flew down after ,her with ' my heart in my mouth. ,At
the bottom of the stairs, she was crying - not because she ~as hurt/ but
because the doll was broken.
Now,'SO years later,3 ~or~ childr~n and 20grandchildren,~nd one GG
child later 'we read in the Gesell Institute ' s "Child Behavior ll book that
J'out of bounds acts such as these are norma.l and natural growth symptoms
of the 4':year old - they run away,defy parental commands etc ll • Parents
who ' are aware of these growth cycles will know better how to cope with
them without getting upset themselves. No mother should b~ lonesome or
bored with a child or childr'en to watch grow up.
We learned fo 'count up to 10 in Navajo about this time .' t oo -1 Athlie,
2 :Nokee,3.Taw,4.Teen,S.Sthlaw,6. 0 staw,7.Sosit,8.Sapes,9 . Na~stay,lO.Niznoz.
+ + + + + + + ++ + + + + + +' + + + + + + + + + + +' + + + + + + + + + + +
Our Bluff Paradise came to an ab:r:upt end in the spring of 1918,wheA
Mr Scorup sold the house and farm. ' There was no other ' pJ,.acein town
available so we mO\Tedto ,Salt Lake City and here ' we enter'ed a new type
of life entirely,but that story will be in our next book. Perhaps we
shail call it The Milling Around Years for that is just what we did.
Some Milling and a lot of moving around. I t may be even d~ller reading
th~n what 'you have just read., but there will be pictures that will be of
interest to those who entered the ' world dur ing, this per iod. Quentin"
Beverly Jane and Berwyn here you come. ...
= = = = = = = = = =. = = = = = = -- ---- -- = = = ======
P.S . I am now convinced that the Preface of a Book should be written
after it is finished. It is ' easier to say where you are going after you
'have been there than before. you start. Now in the preface to this book
in the last paragraph quote"We h~ve elected to :write in the 'third person
since etc." There are so few pages in the third person and so many in '
Dolph's First Person that this book might well have been call~d the
,.t\utobiography of Dolph Andrus Part,Five with comments ,by I rene. Well you
~ill have to take it as it is. Next time the Preface will be t he las t ,
page we write.
Sunland California August 3 19u7 Dolph and IreneAD2 r us
Error: The date oh page one should be 1967 instead of 1947 that LS'
the year we moved to Sunland from Salt Lake City,Utah.
Page 119,
A
Alphabet Blocks 4
Alhambra Rock 13,91,84
Agath1a Peak 13,98
Albino Child 32
Ash C:r-eek 34
. Augusta Bridge 69
Aunt Dinah 83
AssistantCa~era ManB3
'B
Burros & Bridges Story 36
Burros in Bluff Streets 39
Burr3 s,Artic1e . about 40
Burrotino Rudolf- 4"1
Bible Burros 42
Burros & Bridges Maps
pfatesI, II, III, IV & V
. Between Pages 48 & 50 -
Burros on the March 55
BurrosiriC1ov~r55
Bears Ears 57.
Brigham's Thumb 87
Bri~ge on the River San Juan 93
Butt Willard 115
C
Cow Canyon 2
·Canyon Hom e ~tead 12.1
Comb Ridge 13,18.19
Comb Wash 1 8 .3
Chamber of Commerce 25
Coyotes 26
Co-op Store 27
Cedar City 35
Clement~Andrus Contract 36
Conductor on Train 44 ·
Camp at Edwin 59
. Clem _ Photographing Edwin 59
Caro~ineBridge 67
Cliff Dwe11er ·Ruiri 73
Cigarett~ Cave 75;77
Clem in Olympic Gardens 83
Chickens 114
Case Tractor 115-
D
Dwarfs b,c,d 10.~
"f,g,k,h,j ·10.3
"l,m.n: 10.4
" - p,q, _r,s,t10.5
II v,w,x,y,z 10.6
.Page 120
INDEX
D (cont I d) .
bolph Asleep on Mesfl. 45
Douglas Jimmie 46
Dolph and Map 53
Decision 74,75
Draft Card 113-114
Dodge Car 115
E
. E1 Ca~itan 15
Echo Peaks 15
Edwin Bridge 59,61
F
Fairies Happy Five 5
Fairy Poems 6
Fairies,Ab out -them 7
-Fairies Cry 8,9.
Fairies,Five Best 10
Fall of 1916 Dis Acct 16
Faverbrant cl16
G
Gu1chedP1ate V back of 50
Goosenecks 84,91
Goulding 94,95
Gateway 109
H
House in Bluff 1st 2
Homestead Kids 12.1
HOpi Art 31.1
Hydraulic Ram 32
. Hansen's Advice 37
Hister ian" s View of D 48
Hunt Ozro 53
. Horse on Rock 65 · . , ,
Ha1gaitoh Spring 85
I
·Irene's Account of Early Bluff
- Period 4
II " Lewis Story_ 10.7
" II Sp , & Summer 1916 10-.7 .
IIiI' Bridges Trip · 50
" in Olympic Gardens 83
II witt Mrs Faverb_rant - 1-17 .
Irene's Ac~ount of Torma 118
The Run-a-way
Down the Stairs
I
I
1
1
)
J
I
I
I
i
r
~
I
J
J
Jacobsen ' 35
Jonesteonard & Map 53,75
Janes Ruth 117,113
Jennie Talks to Indian 93
K
Kayenta 32
Kanab 34
L
Lew:Ls Story Method ,
FivaFairies 10.1
Dwarfs 10.1 - 10.6
Details 10.B -10.13
LIFE Story about early Educati6n
10.1410.18
Lee's Ferry'33
Locomotive Rack 45
M
Mab the Good6ueeh 10.1
Maps
Rust Trip 12
Monument Valley 21
Burros * Bridges 48 - 50
Sitting Duck 74
Cigarette Cave 75
Olympic Gardens 75
Mexican Hat 84
Ha1gaitoh Spring 85
Gaulding 94
Stagecoach 95
Sand Dunes 98
Tatem Pole, 99
. Monument Valley 2,3.
Maxwell Letterhead 13
Mexican ,Hat 13
Maxwell & Trailer 16.1,16.2
M.V.Dre~~s C.Sketch 16.3
Maxwell in the Flood 17
Max 1st Comb R Trip 1.8
M.V.Hopkins &Andrus Hike 18.6
Close-up of Monument ' 18.6
' Hopkins PhotographinglB.8
Hopkin~ and Hagan 18.10
Dolph and Mi t ,tens 18.13
Six Hopkins Photos 18.14
Tatem Pale 18.16
Maxwell an Comb Ridge 18.19
' Madness What it is 18.18
Meanest Man in Town 18.20
'Maxwell Going Up Comb Wash 20.1
I '
M (Cont'd)
Maxwell lon the Sand 20.1
Maxwell Sales Tales 25
Monumental Highway TaJ.:e 26 '
" "Start 27
" " Map 28 ,
" " Dolph's Acct 29
" " White Paint 31.2
" "Cut an Rock ' 32
, Maxwell Surrender 35
Movie Camera 37
, Moloch 89
Mitten , Sp Dry C.Sketch 101
" " New ,Location 103
N
Navajo Mine Story 22
Nature Walk 26
Nielson Fraricis 46
o
Oberon King 5
Oil Driller's Camp 20.2
Organ Rack 29,31
Oljeto Visitor 29
Olympic Gardens 75
On Trail Olympic Gardens 87
P
Pull-me-up 29,33
Puzzled Moment an Trail 50
Physical Fitness 114
Premier Car 117
Paradise Last 119
Preface Remarks 1,119
Q
Qu.entin 119
R
Rust Trip Map 12
" ,, " Dolph's, Acct ' 14
Ra~lee's House an River 29
Red Lake 32
Redd Charles 44
S
Stoner Winifred Sackville 4
Photost~& Poems 10.-18 -:- 11
Facts in Jingles 10
Summer of 1916 D's ,AccOunt 15
"Schramm-Johnson part.y,19
Salt @ 200 lbs per bag 44
Page 121
S : (Cont'd)
Sitting Duck 74
Spencer's Tradirig Post 84,91 "
Sand Dunes 98,105
Scorup House 115,119
Salt Lake City Move 119
Schramm-Johnson Party Comb Wash 18.3
T
Torma & " Sunday -School Group 4 ~ 1
with Blocks & Doll 4.2
and Tren SLC 1916 12.1
with Stick of Wood 18.1
Oil Can Story 18.2
First Tryon Burro 47
Finished Buir6 Rider 79
with Spencer Girl 91
Charcoal Sketches 81
Titania Queen 5,8~
Tuba City 32
Transportation 38
Twist The Mormon Trail Plate II 48-60
Totem"Pole 99,111,& 18.17
To-to-woh-nut 107
u
V
~all~y of the Gods 75
Victory Garden 113
W
"" Woodhauler 's Camp 18.4, 18.5,
Wirtter -of 1916-1917 25
Washington 35
Wylie Camp 35
Woodbury Aunt May 35
Was"hday on the Rocks 71
XYZ
Zelma and Mamie Jones 13
Zion Canyon 35
Zeke Johnson 116
Page 122
J
r
I
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CJ CJ
•
'Ii. JONES
Farm and Stock
~
t
'. Bluff, Utah •... ..... ................................ ..... ....... 19t ....... .
Early Experiences that shaped Torma's life
She was to have been named "Dorothy," but when Grandpa Jones blessed
her, he gave her the name "Torma." In early school years she signed her name as
"Dorothy Torma." Which would you rather have today "Dorothy" or "Torma?"
The years one to four were spent in Bluff, Utah with summer time on a
"Homestead" on Black Mountain. The Bluff years included a pack trip on horses
and burros from Bluff that went over and under all three of the Natural Bridges in
what is now Natural Bridges National Park, down thru the Valley of the Gods, and
thru Monument Valley.
Age four thru seven were spent living in a small house that was part of the
Cedar Milling Company Mill in mouth of Cedar Canyon. Her piano lessons began
at home with her mother as teacher while living at the Mill. All schooling was done
at home because it was too difficult to get to school in Cedar from the Mill.
At age eight she entered public schools in Cedar City, quickly progressed
thru first grade, second grade into third grade where she belonged.
Before Torma turned fourteen, she was the Accompanist for the Cedar City
Junior High School production of "Love Pirates of Hawaii. "

Click tabs to swap between content that is broken into logical sections.

DOLPH'S ACCOUNT OF THE WINTER OF 1916-1917 IN BLUFF - CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
I would like to take up the narr ative from page ~2 where it was stopped
in order~q relate the· NAVAJO 'MINE 8TOB.Y:· I had said that Hopkin's photo­graphs
were give much 'publicity etc etc, but something more must be done.
What was to be' done a'nd what we did is quite a s tory, but I still had my
school to teach and attempts 'to make at selling cars . I spent considerabl e
i time in Moab, as much as my school" woul d ,permi t and then I worked Blanding
and Monticello. T;here are two incidents t hat stand out; in my memory,one
in' Moab and one in ,Monticello.
At a · ranch near the , La Sal Ran~h I picked up a wealthy rancher who
wanted to go to Moab,so Itook .himdown and all the way down I kept ask­ing
him ,to drive. He would have none of it. We spent the n i ght in Moab
and were on our'way back , when 'he surprised me by saying, "Let 'me have a
g9 at riding this horse of yours." I had given up.all hope ,of getting
. him to take the wheel. The spot in the road wa::; a good one f or the try.
A level fl,at with only small brush and no' ·ruts in the road. If he ,left
the road no 'harm would result to car ,driver or passenger. He took the
',"wheel land promptly left the road in : low gear ~ , He ; froze to the wheel a'nd
' WO~ld 'n:ot ., change gears~·. We we'~e :going zigzag ov~rt,be f l at. · I reached
for the wheel·tosteer us 'back Qnto the'road . He' roared ,at me,IIKeep your
hands off them reins, if I let this critter get the . best of me I will
never be' abi'e to ride one again." He stayed with it unti l he got the
car back on to the road and then said, ",Now you can have it ." · I turned the
key 'and stopped the motor. No amount of coaxing could induce him to
try again and there were very few spots in the road where I would have
trusted him. No sale.
A:tMont icello I had a very bad moment and lost another prospect . It
had rained nearly all night, but the sun shown bri ght and clear. t he next '
morning. I'got my prospect in the car and we drove up to a new gas
tank that had just been installed the day before. This was quite an
improvement,. Most* of the places where you b ought ,gas , you' drew. it out o f
a 50 gallon steel drum into a bucket and then wi·th a ' funnel you poured
'it into the tank of your car.l was the first car at the pump that morn­ing.
He filled. my tank and we started gown the street . Just as we near­ed
the homebf the prospect the car stopped. It was impossible to star"t .:,
.,·,i ·:E-. ' .. ' He climbed :out· ofthEr'car and ' said., III have work to do. I have no
"';titne ',,f6ruh.:....::.5\lsele·ss buggies:':·'Som~> ~a~r::. 'I:"~"jho:r:"seless· buggi~~. ~pt ' I
call I urn useless. They are not d.ependablE;: ~ -qnd >never . will be. II " ,>
I CheckE?dthe'spark;' and found it 6k~y.': Th~n r took 'off the-bo~i
of the filter just in ·front of the carburetor. It was iull of water. ;r:
turned the pet cock on the bottom of the tank and water came out. No gas
at all. i walked back to the gas pump and asked the man t pump me a
gallon of gas in a bucket mat he had. He did so ahd nothing but muddy
. water came out of the pump. Invest,igation: showed that water ' had'- run
from the r06f directly,into his storage tank :; He' had a tank full of muddy
water. No car sale that day. .
We· had a teacher I s Conventi'on ' in Monticello and one of the Speakers
was a professor ' from the . University of ' Utah. He had much to say about
the value of "Nature Walks" with t he school children. After his talk·the
. ,: " ' , ' . ' " ' . teachers were allowed ' t o ask ques,tions and make comments. As usual I
put 'my 26¢'worth into"' the fray. I said in part,"Ican see taking city kids
for a walk in the country,but :taking country k ids for a walk in the
country always enqed in .-P- riot as far as my.experience has .been">
25
- \
, 26 i
' ,'I
His repiy to my comment was a gentle rebuke and he used a paraphrase
on that verse " in Proverbs: "Where' there is no vision ,the people per ish . "
"Where there is no ~now l edge,the children run wild" ,he said a nd then went
'on, "I f the teacher has full kI1owledgeo f,~what is being Seen and can ex­plain
what: 'the chi.ldr~n find and bring' to him any group ,can be held with
very ,little trbubl~.~ , i
I invited him ,to ,come to Bluff and take my school for a Nature Walk.
'He accepted my invitation. On the" way down I asked him if he would like
to talk to the parents and townspeople in the evening. He said, thGlt he .
' would be very happy ~Q talk, about -' - ' the beauties of nature in Utah . So
' 1 arranged for a meeting in ,the LDS Church .
The Nature Walk was a riot, I a'm ashamed of the kids for some of the
things th.ey did and I shall not waste your time and mine ' telling' about
them,butwhe,n we went up one of the many little . canyons near Bluff that
are real ' gems and some of the boys brought him some "cliff flowers" we '
called them because 'we knew nothing about them except that they grew un-
' der rocks ' ,in places hard to reach. Sad to relate he knew nothi 'ng about
them eithe'r. Under mY,breath I quoted, "When the leader knows nothing, thos e
iWh~ ;Eqllowhim :know inothi;pg too."" Th~childr~~ w,erequi1;edissapointed~
., .' IJ!he 'meeting in tlle ~:ev:eningwas well ,~atten~~d'" ltrink ."most ,0:( the
p~opl~ 'in town were there;exbept thoserr{en who were out looking after the
' affairs, of the cattle. They calied it "riding the ' range:" Some were out
. trapping · c01otesand ,theywere especially bad that year on the sheep and
in some cases killing very youn'g calves. It was a very interesting talk
and theaudiEm~e listened with interest until he launched into. an , eloquent
tirade against the "evil men who ,set traps for the coyote. "He went on "
"Do you know what they catch in t hose traps? They c atch eagles! II Then
cam~ a vivid account of the fast vanishing "bird offreedom" to end u p •
with'," it will be a sad day for mankind when the clean tooth of the coyote
is found no more on our plains and among our hills." The audience was
quiet and said nothing that n ight, but \th~y poured it on me for 'the next
, few days. '
= "= = = = = . : = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = -- -- -- = = = = = = = = - , i
A nUlIlber of things were done about bringing Monument 'Valley and the
proposed IIighway to the attention of the rp,otoringpU:blic. One was the , ,
biggest mistake 'lever made in ' my whC?le life. I traded ' I rene'sbirthrighL
" ",fQr "a ".mess",af PC?tash., The ':privilege of homesteading is a b irthright and
·:>it .c9tnes ,-otl-lY ' Orice,iri a·lifeti.me • My; ,: ~):y :~e~use , ':was , that : I had ,been in­:
forin~dthait since we had not been cibr~:' t.b."] ii -d~ ' .6'n" it six montbs dut ,,of
each year we would not l?e 'able to obta;i~ < tlti~ '~~ it.: ' AriyWaywe·~ did·, not,
return for ' the summer of 1917 and lost it. What did ,we get in ,return 'for
it.? ,I go i: a t.ripfrom Blufftq Zion National Park i n the, Maxwell with Dr
Hopkins and Torma, Irene and I g~t a trip to the ,Natural Bridges and Monu-ment
Valley behind a bunch of burros. '
. ....•.• . , .. ".,- ! .. .. - • .,.- _ : c .. _._;:._ ._=._. ~_._:,:"""._· . ____ .~· ._·.c· ._ ~" . - _ . , . ,"- : ' --. ": . . ' ... ,. __ ~:-.. ___ _ ': " , :, . • ": _ __ _ . _ . . _ .. ~. , ': , : •.. . + + +'+ + +.+++ + + ++ '.f. "+ +- +-:- +++ '-+ ~+' + : +--+ - +-'- +-:,-+-' + -~+ -::r+- '+-' +--+--++---.
, , A Bluff Chamber of Commerce was organi zed a nd- stationary printed. I ,do
not r~emember all the details now b-q,t, through .'letters to Dr Hopkins and tal k
in the , Chamber "of Commerce atr'ip was planned for the Maxwell bverthe New
Monumental Highway to Zion' Canyon. The Chamber voted $50.00 forexpe~ ses
and Di:: Hopkins agreed to pay $100~06. ' On page 2,8 is a map' Qf the route
taken~ This was "published 'in January 1918 'htimberof the Good Roads Auto­-
mobili~t atong . with a tog-by Dr Hopkins 'and many, photographs .• '
After the map on page 29 I begin my version of the trip. This is now
published, in a limited edition for the first time.'l'hls is :Jurie ' i.967,jus t
50 ye~r$l~ter. (Turri to page 29) " ,
_.. . _------_._.- ..•. -:-;._-_ .. -.... -.- -.. ~--'- --~. " - --' - .. -- - - - ~ .. " ..... - , .. - ~:..... -.. , -... ....:. :.
I
I I
1
.,
'? l." I"l ~~ .... .• . .....:.
."
... .,
...
'f
cra~king #the "Ma~ il · for · the
,- .~ - ~:-1- ...r' '. ",. . 1', .
Janej.'stands close to " th~r6il.;t:' ·
~ ·1\.~· . ., ~:;. ""'t r..
. ' - -.~/ , , .;" .
. y . ' '-' -'"""""I~""";-
,.,. .... - . --.. ' - . ~uiii&NAr.JiilJu;eHji)(jES.: ': : ..
_··Ci.ji:FDIt'~Li~iRii/N'i: ':~'::
•.~ HpPllN~~~)t'~_~~i~ :t:. . · '.
~ .rIlHQ(/s ~f.f!N clI'l'o.lI --.' :~ :: : ~~~MiIAd.
" (1I1iJJIB' F.oHi~-'r \ .'~
. G8.i/Ni:j· Ciri';iloil >~:· ;:., J.~j~r.'!'"
MOAlIJNEN . . ' '. ,. ••. -j~~~~~~~
(JJ
N
DOL,PH'S ACCOUNT OF THE MON~NTAL HIGHWAY TRIP JUNE 1917.
' I think that I should begip this s ,tor:y with some information about
the preparations that were made and the things that'Vle carried in , the
car. The ' fiI:lst step' was , to ' pers'uade :trene'~to stay and take car of the '
Post Office . Th,ere is ,a bubble in my memory tank at this point. I have
noide'a how it ' was done. It certainly was a stouthearted thing for her
; 1;0 do and sl1e should9'et credit fo,~ the trip if there is any credit ,due
for such,a wild adventure. ", , '
,Here is a partial list of the things we took wit h us: Spare p~rtq for
every part of the car , in ' danger of wearing out or br'eaking,extra,front
anQ.rear springs ,'extracarbureter ,.two spare tires; box of patches, boots,
(and 'inner tubes ,twofivega~lon , cans for extra gas, axe" shovel,pick etc. '
Thepr'ize piece . of equiplIlent 'Was' a device called , THE PULt-U-OUT. Dr '
,Hopkins in~isted em calling it the PULL-ME-UP. It consisted of a drum
, turned by ~' crank.' The drum wound up the cable of a block and ta:ckle.
One end of the cable was to be fastened to the front axle of the, car ~md
,the other ~ridfastenedto three steel stakes ' driven into the ground. '
This w~sfor bad places that we might encounter wh~re there was no·help. '
:. ,! " ~r . R.aplee:' sentChi::rbired' man wit1iteam and! ,buckboard ' to help us as ' ,',
f'a·r ; cis KayeIltaJHe' Hdt , ah~ad';'; 6f : us _ and ~would m~e t u,sat '7the Oil Camp
' as previous e;q,erience had ' sh6wn. that 'we ~ouidgo · th~t : far without '
?elp. A M,r H9-.rr 1. son went along on his horse : so that if a' question of
the route to ' take ' came up he could ride aheadand ,s-cout a way to go~
He a 'lso wEmtas far as Kayerita • ,He also went ahead to meet us at the '
Oil Camp which was also called Douglas Camp. We had no trouble making
the 28 miies to Mexican Hat: We spent some, time driving around ' irithe
Gradeno'f the Gods,agroup of smaller monuments north of Mexican Hat.
We returned to , spend' the night at Mr Raplee's House on the banks of
the San': Juan River near Mexican Hat (Goodridge) • During the Oil Boom of
1909.'Mr Raplee had buita: very fine rock house, too near .to the San
Juan River • ,The Indians warned him 'and pointed to 'the marks on the
rocks , left by the ·highwater 'in their life'time. He ignored the warning
' arid the house was completed,ready to move ' into - then came the high
water. Tlie house was so well built that j:t was ' not, washed away, but was
almost buried in sand. ' One room had be~n excavated and in ,this we spent'
the night. , ' , " , , ' ,' , ' "
':' . ~ H~ri= we.:p~d ,durfiist rfeedofspare parts. The bolts that held the
-;st'eari~gi picture as I·w3nt ' through
'the IT\oj:ions of, playing. I never saw it. ; I guess ' I split the film. '
, ,We camped onOljeto Creek that 'night:. , ,A very pleasant old Navajo
29
came into our camp.
We did not get a pict­u
r e of, him as it was
after dark :when he .'
, ,came. , Tllephotb' on '
the tight,which I have
"copied ' frortta magazi ne
looks very IJluch like
, him, except th~the
'smiled more than this
one 'appears to ' be able
to do. ~he dress also
was different. Our
visitor wore a black
v~lvet shirt with
" silver quarters .' for
buttons. The ornament
,':aroun" He grinned and said, "0". There is no way
to write it the way 'it sounded,but it meant approval of my words.
All during our :struggles to communicate that evening whenever the "0"
came from his lips wekriew we Were understoQd. Early the next morning he
came to our camp with b ig chunk o f lean meat that looked very' much like ,
venis~n. After much' labor' with hands and tongue we found e u,t that ' it was ,
burro meat. The flesh o f a freshly killed wild 'jackass,o!:" ~f you prefer
the flesh Qf the' "DE!sert Canary. We' cooked ~ couple of slices and found
, it very good. ' Muc~ 1 ike An te lope from the Lund Desert near Cedar Ci,ty .
30 '
In lower rigpt c orner MaXW'ell i s ,
seen gO;Lng ' doWn dugway to Bridge
across the pan .Juari River . Tbe"
cable~ a r e 'maqe of t elephone wire.
Itwas cons-truc.ted by'the,Cattle
" ,qwne;-s of ' ,San. J ,ual} , YOl,Wty .for the
'.,j ',' 6fo. s,:~n9" ,6'f '! Ca"tfie" to ,' .tf.1~:+r' r<7.pg,e .•
. Wellher ~ 'we --. . . With pic k,.
t- ." and s, hovel . we , t'I: broke off the
L~...:.-...;---..---------- . bank . and went down .
ground.
~ '0 .
~.}' . I was at· th.e crank' of 'the "PULL..:..ME-UP "
'~
·The drum
wound up .
l?nd of a
. and ' -Tackle."
. .
We went after. the other 'side with pick and shovel,but
after all the wOrk we were able to do the grade was
still too steep for the Maxwell.
Slowly, we went. up ,O~ our
Dr Hopkins opera ted
"The Push-ni.e-u "
own power.
We toek a short dr-{ve to where the ' Little Colorado River joins the
beginning . of i;,h'eGrand Canyon(if any one point can be named as the' ,be.;..
'ginning.) This . was a grand' view. We' camped over night on the ,rim. "
. Now we 'had come ~ithin six miles of Lee's Ferry. For about three ' miles
we . followed ~narroww{nding road up a's:teep r.idge ;or . '~ hog.' ~ "back". Here
Vile. had our only close' call with disaster .. ' We had come . to the last steep
h ~ ll,andbelieve it or not .itwas downgradetpe rest of the way up . the
river to the Ferry; The down 'grade had Jligh banks on each :side of .the .
. road. Impossible 'to leave the track if ' you wanted. to , but the upgrade had
no protectiveba'riks and there was a sheer drop on each side . of the narrow
road. l knew that .. the . hand-brake would ' ~ot hold the car in cas'; it became
necessa'ry to stop on the way up, so · I ask~d Dr: Hopkins to follOW behind '·
and lichunk" arock ·underthe rear wheel 'incase the engine went. dead • . Ii:
did very hear the- top. The .Doctormissed the wheel with his stone and I
was forced to , back all the way down that,' rtarrow road. ' ...
I had always maintained "that no one should dr i v,e a- car until apleto
back "it anywhere. I was glad that tha.d taken my own advi,ce and l1ad tried
backing the car until I was expert at it. it saved me and the car ,thi s
tim~.
.. ,
The people who operated the Ferry' lived on the other side of ,the River .
33 I
After a ' second go at the road up · the I1hog's Backl1 which sent the car over
the top with a running engine,we began to wonder how we would let the men
who operated the f erry know that .we wcinted over the river ,as the house was
some distance from the boat;.. When we arrive d a t the river our method of
letting ' thein know was right in front of us. On a small wooden tower was
. a bell , a rather large one, and under it was a sign which read.IF YOU WANT
TO CROSS JUST RING THE BE~L OR FIRE A SHOT AND YOU WILL FIND US JOHNNY ON
THE SPOT. We had no·fire arms,so we rang the bell . In a very short time
the boat with two men' Qnboard was coming over to our side .
This boat was powered by the river . current. It was the only one of . its
kind that ·. I had . ever seen ·. ,I think · you might be interested in knowing ,
how it could cross from eit:.her,side propelled by the force of' the. stream.
I present below a sketch · of how -it worked:
Bank "
Wire cable from bank
... ~. DirecUon .
moves this direction
--ld to get some one to sign with me. I went
i:othe man we had been renting from,Uncle HyPerry. His "Prompt an~werwas
"Hell! No! But ·1 will iet you have the money. If I am to take the risk I
am not .going to let the Bank collect the interest! · I'll take. it myself. Il ' I
I thought of all the people ihHluff that I might ask to loan us the '
money,})ut could settle on rio one. ' So I dropped it for a time and turned
my attention~o transp~rtation. A wild idea came into my mind,but I must
have Clem's approval. ~
It came . to me that . our tra~sportation was running around in ~he streets
of· Bluff. A departing prospector had left ' hi$train of B~rros in charge
of Dan Hayes one of my ' pupils in: school. All Dan did was to turn them ,loose
ih the streets. They seemedto ·thrive on what they could find growing .in
the sandy streets . On:ce 'in a while they would , go out in the brush west of
•,
town along 'that level stretch that ' bordered the San Juan River between
the Cottonwood Wash anc;1 Butler 'Wash,but most of the time they could be
seen in the streets of Bluff. . .... j
I ' timidly mentioned this to Clem and his wife Jennie,who was go~ng with
him on . the trip. I had alsQ proposed to take Irene and 'Torma 'along w:i::th .me.
,Clem and Jennie thought the burro idea was just great. They both knew. !
about burros pnd how dependable they were(See article THE BURRO taken from
THE ARIZONA HIGHWAY magazine on page 40 )Mr Hansen scoffed at 'the idea of
·taking our wives along and thought t;.hat horses would be slow enough as he ' 1
still remembered his trip to the bridges on a horse. '
Clem asked 'about pack saddles and assured me that any expense incurr~d
in procuring them would ba paid out of the $500.00. I was sure th~ta Mr
Douglas, also an old prospector, but not the owner ' of the b i;lrros, had pLenty
of pack saddles and other gear that he would let us use without charge.
S~ our transportation was solved. "
Now Hansen raised the question, "How are you going . tofin. •
1
I
our anpo a on was runnl g
around in the streets of Bluff
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" ' of 'f' ",
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. .•. ' . •. . ..•• . ", " . 'l'" ;' •. . ""....:
, '. ''j " ~ J • • •
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, , .~. " ~ \ ',' ,
\ . ." ~
,. I _., ' '. ~ " • \ . • •
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Burros ' are patient, plodding and philosophiCal ,animals,
droll anachronisms in these modem, high-geared times. They have
, .. ' ....• ". . ( ,
disappeared .from the wide highway, b.ut in the back country where
th~, trails 'ate (s~~ep; '~nd ' na~ow, they clompcclo~p along, faithful
;. , " ~ .,-. -': " ..... ' .. '. "
~n~ uncomp,lahllng~dertheir burdens: . For ·the dramatic and
.~ ,
. .~~roicr()le; th~YJ?lay:ess~s~ed of great strength atid, enduran~e. ' The
\'. :.« . . ..... ~ '- .' ' ....... :.', '. ' ':":'.' ' . ..' .' ~. , '.. ': '
·h~at of the trackless desert holds no terror for them, nor do they
~;l:%~hbef();ethe,bitte~Wind ... They:eat~t.rl ,gr()~ ~ato~.the ~rest .
, j~te, altl)61lgh .itisnot'truethafbuITOS eattUicans b~''fence posts .
.·.~ :At)·'~l~l PrOsp,ecthf:~~'cetol(Ltis 'his :~Urr' -, , ... . ,) ' . '_.' ~ .' ,... ' .. ~ ' • .
,. gold'Wa~chandchain~ ,W,e, ~o not doubtthatbecausebUfros are by .
· hatureopp6s~d to, mode~ : inventionsal?-dw~tches are, rOtorio~~ly '
·enl~stniin.ents irt ~ .!tyes of the . unhUrried .. And bUrros iaketheir
. . .. ' " :. ' " ~'~ .,"
" . J'h~y siInply~efuse 'to'h~y . when hurrie~ they. get stUbborn; ,
-'-\,':': \'" .:;fudri9tbiUg can be as stub~asa s~bborn~~. Beatings an?
,,\, .' ..• :: . ,.,' :~~~swili 4~tmove them;: ·gtrild, a 'fire under th~m\'and they'll step ' . ",.
. :._:: ... . _ .:~:. .. - - _", ': • -, ..-: • .: ...•. :, . ", . :- :-; . _ .. _ _",_:. ... '. c _;', _ ' " :_" . _,'
. . ; :daintilyalol1g'to g~iaway from the-flames and ,thenthey'llstopimd -..... . ': .. ,-, . -, " , . : . ,,' - ," . '; " ' ... ;
takerooiagain . . One, canta~:keroti~ 'old desert rat w'e. krlow . blazed .
· ~~ ti~il .of ·fke' fo; amile toh~hisbillTO befor~: he ;w~sbest~dj~
a~la~ii' of wills. , Once a b~o~ecides' t~ ~btrt:~<>yi~;;:h~~il go on :
ste~~il;and'#reiessl;ina sI6~,sle~pi way coveBrig a lot of coUntry "
'. and~~ f()ughetthec(nmt~'Y ~e beitei:., " ' " ' .' . . .
.." . . . ',.," ," . .', ,' .. , ~ '. ,' ''~' . "i.' _.. ' . . . \ .' ~ . . .. . ,
:.' -', They . are w()nderfuL~01IJ.pimionso~thelonely trail~ being iiI . -:'
c" tum 'lcind, playful~ misthievolls" $y1npatheti~and understanding .. ""
.." , ... ...... :.~. J. " , , ' , ._. ,'. .. . .~. ;; . ,.~. ! .' ..... ,:. ,. ... ,' .. , . . .' - ...'- "; .... ,' ~ '.: ' . :". ~ .
Maybe because they've heel! ~istreatec;l so much, burrt)&-thrive ,unaer ,
:~~eh?.::~tZt.~::r~U?tZ!~ rz::; .
,kitch~~~60r locked. ~~l)S~' th~r go~into the habit ~h~n no one. w~s ' '
'. , ,.' .. ~ , . '. ~~~ , '-.~ ) -.' :>'"- ". \ . .r.' : '. ,,' '. , '. : 1.....,.. ". .. .
looking of ,g9ing into the ki~ ' •
. .. ';' ! ; .', ,.',", , t .
,,'A' neiw ,c~ntutyand; cha~ging ticies have 'left!the ibUrio far ;'"
, .' " '. . ." '.~ ,.. : :'" , ,, ' ;,' ' .. ·', l '.' .' . .'" .
; ~hipd. ~ The ,moc;lerni·str,e~mliper s~~ds. ahead, onthf'Wlngs()f,the:'"
... ; .. "':' . .,- ... .. "r', _,:.: '".- .. ".,' ... .. _. ~ ' - . ~ ;.'. , "'< '. ;< .- . ":'," ." '< ~ '; '"- .. , : ( " '~
[
n
Winttwhile·' the; vinri Illunches: mesqwtebeans'in the ' sha~e'of a ·' .'
e~righ~ :oU~~s~~tekee'., . TheY,lm;'~) ~an;disih.cti~ris;. ~o~~~, not,· .•. ·l
.' . the' H~asq)raiseworthy of '~hicJi 'i,s that tme of their kind was used' .. \
, .:', r' , '\ " ,'"'. " , , -" : J __ _ ,', ' " J ' • (
. " .. \ ': "by' CIn1~~' to travel th~ dustY 'roads of, Judea long, long agq, ... ItC. :' . '
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BURROS
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But Clem ,d i d not give up the idea of a Travelogue with people in it
and we were to be the people,nor did I forget my'idea of a story to be
acted out. I said nothing to Clem about it.,but my mind was tal king a
str eak to me about it.
·The subj~ct most talked about was burros. Al l the old Sunday School
lessons about the ass (just a nasty name in some people's minds for the . .
humble burro) and the prominent part the little animal had played in
the making of the Bible. The Durromust have been with the Bible folk
from very early times becaus~ we read in Genesis t hat Jacob in blessing
one of his sons called him " ... a s trong ass crouching down between two
burdens." But this was not material fora story.
How about Samson slaying thousands with the jawbone of an ass: We could
discover a j awbone and then relate the story. We could neve~ act that one
out. The story would be too . something - well anyway it would not do . Then
there was Saul hunting for his father's asses. We could act that one out
anq re-d iscover the Natural Bridges - that one was put on the shelf as
possible but not probable.
My f avo~ite burro story in the Bible seemed to have probaoility. and
possibility~ It would only require three actor s ,Balaam, an ass,an angel
and t he voice of the Lord. These were the days before "talkies" so the
voice would be printed on the screen and would not be very convincing.
;Here the Durro had more vision than h is master and it made a charming
story,but not f or us. I hated to give t hat one up . I could see that wise
old burro talking back to his master after he had bruised his foot against
the wall.
I thought of all the incidents in the New Testament where the ass had
played such a pro~inent part in the life of the Savior,but let them all
go as too sacred for me to tamper with,but the thought of them increased
my respect and admiration for our proposed transportation.
My mind now talked to me of burro in literature. Shakespeare had hi s
characters dream of falling in love with an ass. Not for us and I was
sure of that.Well I could go on and on,but I was soon and strongly at
gr ips w'i th a whole' new idea of my own.
I would fin d a handsome burro. He woul,d be the star of the show. I
picked out a name for him. It would be Rudof Burrontino. In my mind I
could a lready see h0w the advertising might read. On the preceeding page
I have made up one of my dream posters for your admiration if you feel
so illclined and for your censure if that is your mood.
[ stil l had no idea of a story,Lut I was sure that one would come to
me soun. Right now I must do some shopping and get my ticket from the
Lenver and Rio Grande stat ior. for my r ide to Thompson and then home to
Bluff v ia Moab,Monticello ar.u Blanding. My shopping netted me:One pair
of leather "leggins",One l?rown shirt with long cuffs and large white
buttons plus a wj.de hat that the clerk assured me was "movie" style. I
could buy no more. Dr Hopkins had given me the balance of the expense
money for our trip and it was just about gone after I had purchased my
ticket.
With n.}" head f.ll1 of burros I boarded the train. I had shipped all
my belongings by Parcel Post except what 1 could carry in a small suit
case. No wonder that 1 had wild dreams on th~ train . They are best told
in the picture on the nex~ page. Thls picture was drawn several years
ago when I had ambition to put out my story in Diary form. Part would be
real and part a fake Iladec the name Pop tit r: lary. The picture is of one
pave fc~ t ~ ,. att--.t.
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t u r ~ was made several
and Thompson
-_·~~ _ .'n • ,
that for I have just asked the conductor. for the
,- -c- . , , .. . , ' ~ ..
. , manyeth ', time, "Are we near Thompson?" He let me'
,hear him say, "We are not! We are not dt,Jethere until
~~;'J ,4:3~. __ -~t jS~h~ 2:00. Yo~ go to sleep and let M~' WOrTy ..
: ':'" about you getting off. It's MY job to tell folks where to
get off at!" ' I slid into a sitting sleep and there came
to me a dr";~I'I , There is a rock at Bluff called '
LOCOMOTIVE ROCK. In my sitting dream I ,stood in
, the field under the s,h adow of the ROCK. I was wearing
my leather "leggins" and funny pants billowing and bulging
I ' . -4'
above the smooth grip of the leather shin guards A
brown s,hirt with long cuffs was topped by a ' "movie type"_
, hat.' I thot I was casting director seeking a bUlTo hero
for a movie with a title BURROS & BRIDGES. The · type"' .
I was looking fO. r .was very clear 1n ~y mind. . His noble \
head was pictured in a white ' cloud above me. . .
The!' RUDOLPH of all the JACKASSES! ,
. . ' . . ." '. . .
When . the Conduct~r . iriformed me that we'were .100 rnilesbeyoridThompsoI1
· I asked him what ,he' w~sg~ing ;tQ ~ dQabou't it~ , B:esa-id, "I ' willlet' you off.
' at the., next ~tat:Lon and 'give y01;1 a note to ·the Conductor of the next ,
train going i:owatd ~hompsp.n . . ije,.,'W:i,.11 give ', yo~ afre.e ride pac1S: ,tq;'~homp "'; . :
.. .. ." .~ . ' .'. :. ~ . . ..• .. ' . . .' . . . . ... ', '. " ":'. . '- . . son. " '. ' . . • . ' . , " " . '.: . " . . , .. " .:., ' . . :: ., ' .' •• : '. ~. ~ • '. . , ,'.::'. . 1 " . ' . . .. ' . .. .. · .. 'rhat . is. fine ,11 . I said," But how;'doI get out . o f· Thompson'?, The stage
. for M6ab wil.1 b~ . goneand 'Ihayenoextra ,mo'rley f,orHotelinThompson. u
..... He",assbrryanq e~pre'ssed} it, bgtdid nothing ·.more abo uti~L · . . " .
. He let m¢ bfat the' nextstaticm and · Igav~the · note to . the . Conductor
and he · e~c.la:i,.med; "What is the matt;:er witl;1 that guy. You ar~fhetenth ' .' .
persoI1" he 'has' carr:Ledby Whompsonin thelastmonth?"I t 'old' him my 'story
them ,o~rto"xnyshou:tder and staggered: for the wagon. I 'knewt' ~as wea~· .. for .·
.' I had not had any breakfast, but I ' thought ' I . could still carl:"Ya. hundted
'·pounG.s Wi thou.t . staggering •. Mr" Redd shouted at;. ,rne, "who . dq yo~ think you: "
ar~? Samp~on ,bi ' S~ndc)'w? "Those bags' are 1'00 .' poundseacn .. n . 1WCl;S . pariying
200 pounds ,.no-woriderl· staggered. B~forethewagOn ,.was loadeci·i~lmos:t "
· staggered ·under . one bag.. '., ' ..
· . 1spemtoIle. nigl1tand hadtwolllealsat· theLa ·SalRanch. fotwhich1
was charged ' nothing .OneOf.the hearby ' r~ncherswas going ,tQ Mont'ice:L'lo
. so I . roc1~ ' w'ithhimand . there ,was another man fr'om ' BICl;pding: so ,r ,got a
ride that ~ar, butfbrBiuff ,25 miles> away therewas .noth:ing ·to·' do· put
wa,lk. '. . . . . . "
1.st~rted to . walk carrying mysmallsuitcase. T had n~ id~~wha.t· time
it was, bu"t it was far into the 'nig.htwhen . I became: too tiredand . ~l~~py
to . walk . any , more. I . made my",pe'd" (Pctge 45 )atapout . thesame ·spot·: where"
r. had. first .' .se:enth'e . mOhumEmtstPage · 3.) .· Tl1eY . mock~d me;ini the · moqn,light,
but: :now it was not question ofridirtg a~ongthem.That 'wa-sa-"~ure thing, .'
but could. they be made' to pay me 0 .rrtorteY?rrhat ·was · the ' mocking .ur:certainty ·
as I lay ' me down 'to sleep~ ,Even : ;though 'itwas Juhe.9.p..dthe grouridw;;:t's,
war~,theai.r · Was · too.cool .for ' th~ ' scantcoverth,:e . 90nt¢ntsoJmy.suit~ ·
'Cctse provided ine' with. ' I couid ··spare.rmofhi'hg : u.tO' -:put': und~r me, s6 I ' . '
laY,on . th.~ b~re r caring wb.at. bugs Imight 'be crus~- .
ingunder me. Twas too cold to sleep,except by "fits and . startsw .. There .
·wasplentY·Offuel.aroundarid I could .have made a. fire; but:r ·.h,ad ·no , , ... .
'match'~ '. M.orriingcanie 'at·last with the warm ,welcome s un. There wasn6
breakfa.sttop'repare ,soTforced· my I stiff and ~orei' legs tOcaiiyine in
"', the!'direction.of Bluff I home, TorIlla alldlr~ne. .... . : ... ~ . ' . ...... ". .... . r
. "Home' is ,thepla,ce where when, you have to goth!=re they' ,have to 'iet '
. yOu ·inl\. had·notbeen ,written,butr ·it . has always be~K true~ · I ' wO\lidbe :·
glad to get home ,but, would they.be 'aShained of my failure? For the ' first .
'.f leish d i sapo inted. perhaps ., but ashamed ? NeVer ! ' The~ 10ved~me and I -loved
'. them.' But jus:t ' wait': until they . h~ar · about. the .treq:uiretooim~·Gh ·.explanat16ri c and . would · b~s'imple and, 'easy to. give to
" everyone' who would ask ·thesamequestion. ~y thinking 'prought out the
. ·~· .s iinple ca:nswer,,; . 'i I ' i;;old i t'-·II . Then 1 started t6talk fast about the movies
· weweregoiIlgt.oI$.ke . o:{ai·l·th~>·scenic · ~ttractionsof ,the ~c6untrY. .
·WellJtworked 'on' h,im ~nQ~lost enquiring f .iiends ,but,' it' .would not do ·
. for home use : 'Irerie'wou'ldwan tto' know· why? I twas thetruththa t . I did
sell :thecar.-r: got$400.00:fd:r it and: paid mybtll at the Utah:"'Idaho .
Mot·or 'cqrnpapY. ' Thex:ea'retnany b;l.ank spots .. inmymemoryof. ~h~pas:t and
here is ~: one of .them.lTh~m()~ey ~o.uld · be. a t~Lfle,b~1: : if '
' I . ha¢ih€!lped ' you. getii)tot:rouble . I :wDuldfeeL bfldly . a,boutthat • You
think" it: ,ove']::' . very' cal!:,e'fullyand if' 'Y'?u' stil:l i~e l ,that you ' ar~ doing"
'tl;leright . thing·lwill,glad+ysig:hth:e 'notew~th yod. " , ..... .. " . '. .
Ithought.itove.rcarefii'lly :anclbe'· signedthe note • . :Nowthe '-restof
.the ' preparatioh~ . 90\llCi ·p~ , made. oa:ll;'llaYE!S ' ~as :, agr.e~-abie ·about,·the'·burros .'
and' they .. were 'in ' ',town:. 'i'herj3 '.W'ason~ ts1ti~ll,'vei:y ,gentle-Ut· :char~e. : The : he$t :
'thing . was tha:thehad:.a .smal.l ($cidd;L-e. ju~t,r ight for Torma ~ Uncle ·Rumen '.:
, .... -:, . ' _"" _ " . . ._. '. '_ . ,, ' : ' . _ .:. _ ' .,', '_, : :"'. ~ '. " :' _ ' _. "' : ." . - _ -: ' :'. . : ", , ._ ' -' , ,,_', - - c ·.'· ' . _" ...... -' .. . ': , ."_ '_ - " _ ", ' . _ ( ·let us; .tak~aho.rse·' aridsa:q¢ile-, There ;wa:~ ' stiLI:, .the proh.1em of' fi:ndip,g
' .: ~ . _' ' . . .. _, " . ' _:.J ">" ., ' ' :. :' ... . ~ .' :_. :',_ d •• : : • ", • _ , : ' •. .: : .' _ _ . • . " - _ _ - • . ~ our·. way ·to ,·the,Bri¢l(Je,~~ · : '+t, : ~'e~med : t"d< '~e .:'thata ' t ~ ~hj;nk. ·thErY :wi~1 )give :; ther~ader : .
, .--, ... , . . . . -', ," ': ':.. " ':,' ' " ,', ., , ',- . " , '.- :'-', " . ' ' .-_._':.., . .;, .•. ,: ... ~ __ .... . . ' : .. _' .. ",.,c,:. ,: · . ;>,. ,. ·.·:_. ~ ._ ·- . . :.P .. .. , .-•. ' , .... " ,:" :"' .";,',:-,," . . :: .. ..... _'."', ' ,.. .. . t .;
·, }~ome .; ide:a oftlle ,. pr~'9ina'1' ,.map-t.hat>g#~d~d · u$1. t!ie:re. ; Cinc1 · ,back ~ .• : Tlie:se: maps!' . . 4Q.·~~~i~;~'~~~;;~f~~1;~~~~:I~~;;~t'~~~G£~~~rn!~~i· '~~:t~~~~r~~C~e· .': ..
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"The burros were in town and ther:e was a small very gentle one that Torma
could ride. . Mr Douglas had a ' small saddle/just right for' her." Dolph
took this photo before the mov ie photographer arrived '~ ' It was her first
burro ride. "But how do you guide this animal?" The rope does not look li~e
it. would help very much. These little feliows ' stop and start "'on self­intention.
Torma does not show the confidence that she does in a iater
piC;,;l:.ure. This w:as ta·ken. near the base of the large Na:yajo Twins.; The
lone smaller twin can be seen just over the burro's ears, The stump.of
the blasted .one can be seen next to it .
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,While. this wild man makes hisrriaps. let us take a histo.rianl s view of
the events th,atl;>rought him to tl.1.is point . . Perhaps . h isto:(ian is not the
word to use iri his case .. Historiail" s vi-ews are for big people ano: big .
'e~en.ts'.His-tory would 'have been' better ,however , if th~y~ had writteii abo tit .
little .p~opl~ a~d small · e~en'ts. We'- shall call it a scribe I s vie\-{ and ' thus
put 'no stain' on the word histo'i·ian., ,One qannot wr-ite a true . story about
himse.lf . Dolph has ,:bnlytold you what happened ,and not all of thae;wi th' ,:
no stateme,ntas to . why it took that ' tur:n. We do not . ciaim to be. ab1.etq:
'do it, ~ither. ,·· W~are not ' SUrE:! of thee ~actlocation ,or t h e nature of .
the' causesthatdiove·him. to ' .this ' .hew venture, and hissava'ge will .to ge:t'
on with it: nQ.- matter how many obj:~cti~ns are made • . The s~eds may liet()
riearthe 'surface 'and we may dig too ,deep to 'findt.herh\ NO' histol:.:Y is, .
ev~ r true,but ' theii:fe of any person has interest , and at least ,has t;he :
.' .. ; . ' . -."' ". - .' . . ~ . ' . .' '. "! .
appearance of truth andin .IDOs,!: cases serves the same p\,lrpose~ In order .
·to . wri te obJect·ivelyabo'ut.aperson one 'm\,l'st: know them very weI],. and ... '.,
knowing them itis ·ditf;i.cult ,·to decide . which ·to tell and' whidlto le~ye .
. unto~d. ·: . "., - . ~ ". . ', ' --- .
If. the reader ' h~'s read Dolphls story 'from the ' first burning de-sire ·.eo··
ride!3-ritonline ' and take'n . oil '~the ; Mitcool1~ iHe. ,
' .. ' , .-". .. .. ::' '.: .. ....." - . ' ' ... ' :",", '. . ,"", ' I . . 4elivered :a -Mitchell, tothe · man, who>hadb?u.ght a Pai ge. This dj,d n ot:! gi:ve:
hima 'reputatioI}' .for ,stcibilitiy. ', The ina:ptopk '·.it because pdlph was l~tting
him ha've i tat 'i:'os't~ - The 'first car was 'a ,.7 -passenge:r , becausehewa nt~d: .
to' get a smalJ,:'er 'f,ii;tchell int.o the "territory he. sol d . a 5-passE:l1ger model , .
. also citco'st,' · Business was b·oomi~ •. ~ He · beg~n pl.l~h:i.ng ' th~ . Maxweii ~ . ' .' ". - .. '. . . . " '-.' . . :. .
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i'WJE OTt-,aR. .s ,n!.. A
GOOD P\.ACE TO G~
youR~rLF ~u&.auerf
-' ~"f '
PLATE J11
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The Windpte
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PL~T £ 1" . ;'t 11 .~
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DQI" T BIT YOUBSELF, II GULCJIED·
Leg.ndl •••••••••••••••••• •••• ~a11 you should have ta~en.
+++++~++++++++++++++++.~~il you took and got yours.lf "Gulche4"
There are no running streams
of water in these canyons, except
in very early spring from the
melting ,snow,or from a summer
thundred shower. There are a
few springs. The walls are high
and steep. Very few places
where you can get in and get
out. The water marks on the
canyon walls record the
size of these Summer
Streams of Water .
Fig 1
.. ..+..­+..
...
~ '" . t~o • .. J.t • You
of the
have taken the wrong tr ai l++++++ When you , reach • the bottom
Gulch you are confronted by a wall.There seems t o be no way out.
You go down the canyon
thinking you can find a small
canyon that will let you out.
You come to a good place for
a waterfall i f you had the
wAter ,but now it is an im­passable
ledge.
So you try
up another
canyon to
mee t another.
ledge.
..Jr1ioo"". .. t- t
Fig 2
i'
i­t
++ :
t
.... '
~ \
-t
~ \
J{ ••
So you return
to your starting
point,go on up
the canyon to
find the right
trail and out
you go. You have
been "Gulched"
• and you say,
''''So what?No harm
,: done is there?"
"True, but you have lost considerable time an~ worn out yourself
and your stock. But the worst danger is in remaining in the canyon
too long and getting caught in a summer flood. Look at the high water
marks on the canyon walls. You must not spend any time in these places.
Get in and qet out as quick as you can.
(The above is my .emory of a sketch drawn for me by Mr Douglas to
explain the meaning of the expression "Getting Gulched.") (See Plate III
Same situation only we went up the "Gulch" and p icked up the other trail
Plate V
J
:,', , .. , .
' ~~:~Ork'ed ' theM6~b ' a:rea w:Lth'vigor, maki.ng many dernonstratiohsandhad
,many, sale$ 'tio., . the " alIriost" ' pOiI)twhencthey·:tqok· j:he . agency away ii'om
'hiritand' gave.i t '.to~ " tb·~ . Mda:P .GqF~geqqmpa,~y," b~~aus~they co~l.t, eI)()~gh,~ ' . .... r6·ads· were'· b'j.iflt and Monument ' Valley : became ;.
the~,~ mostph~t~grapn:ed._ ~ E:;Eot~ri" tit~ ,tjh:~t~d S'taJ:~~~ ' This ,al1too~Plac=e .
~:~l:he~rd ' his .
hea~y ..• tir~d oth' t6getiter ,','DOlph': '-Daddy! I, ·
was ., .:
iIi :'Salt Lake -
fnet ,~ th)!>SlTiO~fOn.\ ·pl:ct:qr~man "'apq. ,thfLtrl.ptq · the~:q.dges . planned Twas " .'
' .. ' .
Qr ~ere .. as;Leep ;Lf " h.9m~"I .·:,t,o?~ , · rn;~( li~tl~, tru'l\~ o ~' love" let,ter's ' arid k:~ep , "
sakes ... school .: t;hem~s etco. ;';read "them, 'all' wi~l(~a", lwnp~, in / my' throat' and ',a .'
; ~~~ ] 'he: 'had- '.nbthirigt6 .bririg.,:h,omewith :1ii~ .. a~d ; ,~bi~s' t:r; ip ;'. wc\"S·sorne·:thi'rjg . to· " ~ . : .
•· ; ~~!·~~:i~t~~~i"1~~~~t7~4[!;~: iMt7!~f~:~!~ii~~~::~n~!m~t!~~tn1~ · . ;.;
the:..l1uman. . bre~st' ~ M~n never", :L·s : b:titalw~y.~ , tol::1e " blest ~ " Well , I · did ·not ·
.·.~~~rt~ft_~:;~:t;~~r~t:n!1l;:!.u7A\ward · th~m.,but they c~uld not' help us find the. proper trail as we left Long Flat. (See Plate III low-
.' .... ,erright-hahd corner. fierew~re two trails, but a herd of cattle had been "loafi'ng" around here and
.. only o'netrail was visible - tl1e wrong one. . The trail into the canyon was , steep and had many sharp
, :; . drops. 1 was , leading Torm' s burro wi th her on it. He jumped over one of these ledges ahd Torma came '
' ... ' J~:.yingthrOughthe air over pis, read. I ' caught her :under my arm and thus prevented any injury. She
.,.wa.lke,d . the . rest ~ of t1}.e way to the bottom. ' A solid wall confronted us on the other side. There was
. ' n~ w.qy · out • . T remembered the\ drawingMrDouglas had made ontheground(See Pl~te V) 'and went up the
:~, r- ........ " the man with the Leather Chaps and t he
_
right ' over the roof of the cave to i
. the' entrance. II
"" .
/
We took the trail south. We had nothing to guide us e~cept the warning
to stay out of John's Canyon. I have not been ab l e to locate our trail
on this map, but somewhere along this rim we came to a view of the Valley
of the Go.ds and Monument V9~~eY-I!1?-de us glad ·that we had taken the south
trail. We co~ld not photograph and I cann~t · describe it. From ' this ";/
point a steep crooked trail led to the bottom. I have not been a b le to '
locate it on the ~ap,but it was there and by evening we were camped on
the .West· Fork of ,Lime Creek.
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West Fork of
Lime Creek
Franklin ' '/7 ....
Butte
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( ')Rooster
Butte \.:
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G O e D S
Settin&tHen - ),
,.B utte I,
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Dr dl Hole ,,?~:---~
(OLYMP1CGARDENS)
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See 'Photos on
following page~
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Rl'. ghW'ay 47
to Me'" ~ l.can
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J ~ .' I . / r
GETTING - LATE FOR ptCTURE-TAKING WHEN WE ARRIVED AT THE MITTENS"
I am not sure whether the photo on the opposit e page was our last "shot"
or not. I have 'said that it 'was on page 20 No 7 , but now as I look over
the ' many ,photos I am not so sure. It may havebee:p t he one of the Mitchell
and Merrick Buttes shown in the lower right corner of page opposite :)..8.16.
It looks more like , it, had been taken in ,the fast fading light.
Of one thing I am sure is the difference of opinion that we , had over the
direction of Calnp. This I have t~ld about ' on page , 20 under numbers 8 and 9. ,
,I shall not ,go over ,it again ,and 'I have no further cp~ent to make about
- ~t. , , ,
Where I am shown standing by the car in the sand I am wearing a white
' shirt. This may ~eem strange as the ' season was late November. The days
arewarmialmost, hot. Yes veryho't when you are fighting sand with a car
in the bright clear surishine ,b,ut the nights are' cold.
The white shirt and trousers wereEor warm weather' and for , the cool
nights L carried a ' sweater and covera~ls. This ' is what ;r have on as I
stand near the ,spo,twhere the Navajo Tribal Park Building riow 'stands.
You can see the white shirt collar above the coveralls. '
.On the , right you can see a dead juniper tree. This. was the kind of
,material available for Hogan building. One of the rul~s for' good arch­itecture
is to make tbe best possible ,use of the material available. By
this s ta,ndard the old Navajo Hogiui wa~ good a r chitecture. " '
, Si n ce the Hogan ,shown on the previous page was located near the
Mitten s and I have no f.urther , cortunenton the Mit t ens , I t hought it right
to say a few words ' about Hogans and the People ' that lived in them.The
Navajos regardthemselv;,es , as liThe People,. II ,
'It is quite evident from looking , at the Hogan that th,e builder had
access ' to a 'better supply of timber than the one shown in the photo, as
there are some' longer and straighter~ticks in· the structure. Some of '
the 'areas, like the tops ,of the 'mesas 'have growths of larger and straighter
juniper. Why was the m~,t:erial'transported to this particular ,spot? . . - . . - . , .
The ar.sweris water,the most preciOUS thing on, the Navajo Reservation.
The Mitten Spring was not far' from the Hogan . Was is the correct word
" for the ' spr ing' is now dry, orwa,s in 196.0 when Irene and I ' vis i ted the
Navajo Tribal Park. The guide informed us that it , never had been very
dependable ,and had finally 'dried 'up entirely. We were to have an ex­periencewith
itsfickleness,but that,comes later in our story.
'I dO'not wish to pose' as anauthorityC5nthe Navajo people. I can only
speak from a ' lj.,mited contact with them in Bluff and on the ,few' trips ' I
roadethroughthe., Rese~vation.Perhaps it is different now, but at that
time 1915-1918 it was difficult for me to understand ~heir great love
for that barren almost; waterless larid.Taken from ,it and placed in ,a
school 'with modern buildings, green ' grass'and trees, they learned the white
mans language and skills, but always their " greatest desire seemed tabe
allowed to return to the homeland.
, , .
I remember well a young "graduate" from the SChool atShiproclr" New
," Mexico- who "calleCl :for his maii at the ' ~ost Office in Bluff. ,' Smartly
~ressed at first he came Often to mail ' letters ,and r ecei ved a few. ais
visits grew farther and farther apart. His dress grew ~oreandmore like
the older members of his 'tribe. He alowedhis hair to grow long. ' Then he
qu i t c oming altogether. The land 'he loved had swallowed him ',up, I asked
him one day why he did not stay at Shiprock. He just smiled and did riot
answer my question' .. Well I sometimes : get a longing to ' return to Dixie.
18.12
~ : LEGEtfl)
· ,A ... We cameou ,,0
.~- l ' ==Sev~ri- SailQJ:' -Flag Butte rscot.dhman' But,t~(What did, 'We ~ cclll . . , , l' _ .' '. • . ..'
· ,~ ~ 2;~ = Rapl,ee "s S.'toner House . -'OnlY one :r knew 'wa's on tl)eRi ve,i i
,." :';:-
• 8 - Pl.ck up our tral.l lat .l! on ne~ map pa.g.,e 85 . . ... '-'I
·~!.~~7 '"'S2i
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5360 ' '- " .,J J - 'j ~. .~ n -~'-~ r,J ' ~'~ ./ ..:..J
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~~ ;'~.: ;,:. j'--'-(, ? ~~l (\~~. _...F ~\ ~ --- '< ,~ . ,c::"2l., C l.",fr.?- '- c '-:---, ---- " ' Ol1?{: '"
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f.:alga:~·I:"6' '. f~~~;·'·~· .1 .. " . 8~. ~-'~ ''>''~*~~~~~s;~~,,-d.:7~P:14' / / " / / '~:~?~K - Sprmg 10 ' , ~. . . _ . /{./ \ ~- " / ;-; -~-, ~ '" .. Al£'.,..~_ / ' ./ , .' 1,-' . '~ - IJ . l" '-..A. '. . . I -./ R ~'FJ,/ S{ \ E R V ~,~ ~'/ :r . ~ I t\
:~/ -,. ~~+ -~ ~ :~:;~~.:'~~'~ ' :Bru~.. .. " '. ·;;'I1L. '~I - r S)... ' '''' '0 l . /' /' . ./ ~ , : , /~. ')
A ' f,'!~"-:" , ' . .' ': I? / / . • ~.:/V",= -'" . "\ /" ' . \. ' " ~ .&
l, . '.' ~ '. ~_ \ , _, '--. ~., ' • - - ~ / ~/i / /r ' : ' i.I,,-. ' .f.;) \ ........ \ . '~A\~-'./ ...'.. ' .'
J \,4 .. -"-. ;. ~ ...., I _, " ' ,,, ~;~:to ~? ,J . . ..::.,;v~, 't , .( ':" ,... "" , . -.~ ( - ~ · . 0 . , \ , ;,'io' , \ ~ j " .
?i. LEGENO' ; . j . -r?7-.. 506~ (
> I B = Pick up our trail , from previoq,s map on page 84. , . L '{ L. r- . ' E5"." v (
+'918 7= ,None of. this was here when we passed ' this way the Sununer of 1917. . J
8 - It was at this point .that Jenni.e got her information straight from,the · "o.!" :51 ""';/
. .
. ~.
ro
lJ1
lips ' of an old Indian concerning the wat,erof Halgai toh Sp~ ings. " -I.. ., ..1J · fJ 'lY.~./.' ..•.. ....
9 ' ;= D, Andruskilled a cottontail rabbit here. Our ' first fresh meat.
'. . 1-. '. . . ,l /' . / 10 ,= Halgaitoh 'Spring. The name given to us was Huckatoh. We were told that. . \ ""'';--
. th~ name' meant "wate:r: that makes you loose as a ' goose. II We' tried to /f fly. .
• • ' . . . . ', J . cook beans ·1.n 1. t and the lo:qger they ,bo1.led the harder they became. ' /
It was a· sattiratedsolution of Epsom 'Sal ts and other minerals. The bushes " f
were short I but .there wa:s a deep arroyo .t1).at furnish~d the ~eeded cover for . ",-.. ./.
the required action. ~
C = Pick up our trail.'~ at "e" on the next map on page 95. r •
"'I, ... It
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"
_ Gouldings Trading po~t. This was not
tbe MittenSpr:L.ng dry I looked toward this mesa and saw ' ~ small shower
'droppi~9 r~in ; on it.. '1;., felt sure there would be pocket;'i~~ ~n the sand-.
s,.tone tltat would catch and. hOld wat~r. I took one of ~1'\e'i!horses and
rode for it with 'a wat~r bag ' to bring back water. .
5 -Somewhere near herie I came to a large pond of water under. a shelteritl\CJ
.cl:Lff with a. l:tli!eje "round, window in it. ' -This spot 'has l3een:' rttucYr :se~n ~'.,
ill pictures of Monument Valley. I filled the wa.ter bag and ret~rned '
to the dry Mitten Spring to' find my thirsty people cam~d at a new ' .
location.of the . spring ' just over the hill from the 61d .pne. See photo
and ,story on page 103. ' .. - ", ' .1 .
F'~ ~After ccunping 'at 5 for a ' time we took the trail' for Kayenta and .
intended to goon from there to the Rainbow Bridge. Turn to Map'on
~ 'I page 98. lJ\
110"15'
c/' Mapp'~d , edi!et ~Iogical Survey
~~.J. in cooperation '_ . ;oinmission
00\.,1 Cont rol by USGS . ... __ v~J
,~ '}~
Topography by photoarammetric methods from aeri;al
'. 1 0 . . --- . . .-.
_5
LEGEND i "
C
D
' E
F
=
=
=
Conn~ct
"
It
II.
our
II '
"
"
,
. -. ~.
trail with
" "
'" " It
" It
-.
"C" Map on Page 85
"D" " ~ " II , 99
liE II II II " ~8
"F" It It " 98
i 1 = ,We were on the same road that I had taken with the Maxwell Car in
,June a month before. In spots where the clay had been moist the pril1ts ,
of ·the tires were still, visible. Wepass~d the old mocking ,monuments
with no thought of stopping to photogr.aph them. We -were headed for the
'Mittens and water. How much slower the miles go by with burros instead
of 'autos. The Mittens appeared and looked like they 'were 'so near. But
they were far. Anima;ls and people were thirsty and tired 'when we reached
there with .the sun fading fast in the west. 1 had predicted that we would
, . I ' . .
be there for lunch. N~ver put your trust lnl a m~n who has drl.ven a car
over a road when ' he goes over ' the same road behlnd a burro. He has very
'fittle idea of time and distance. " " ,1 •
'3 2: Photo'on page 107 was taken at ' this point.
4 ,: ,Phot'o . page. . 1.Q:9. .. was., taken. at ~ thkf?~ , P-9.int •. . _ .
5'
v " ' ,, '
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"'98
. ('
Page 95
'87 223 L.....,.. .. t --0 - --~--- -------" . ,.,'
I NTERIO R -GEOLOG IC AL SU R VE't' ""'A S H I N ." ' O N 0 <1<5
983
I"
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' ,_: i~i, \ ,h au. '''; although IfE?,1t strongly about the
--- - --- - - - - ----- ___ _ , ___ c_ ',' justice of our cause and would
QJqisC!!rrtitil'st!}at_; . .JJ , ),~~.ji~;~~~~:_~,= ,::4 have gone 'gladly if asked. I , ,., / " .,' 3'!.-~+I . . was surprised at my physical. I
Order No / v (7 S' , '-----------, . er),U;;:,1J 1N 'o . ,_.._ ._._ __,_ A_ __"_ _ , has been finally h-"'a d , never regar d'e ' d ' my: se If ' a· s
much 'in t h at l i ne, but the Doctor
seemed 't'Jell' pleased with 'what he
found. It ,was my ancestor,s fault
arid I could take no blame or
brag about it either.
Page 114
\ '- - --'-
1
1
1
cident that has never been explaine¢l.. One night / long after we had gone
to sleep we were awakened, by footstep~ on the stairway . We were sleeping
upstairs as the only downstairs bed room was in use as a Post Office .
We / of course thought it wa.s Mr Bcorup / but we never heard him open hi's
door. ' We did not hea~ any noise of any kind ' after that. The next mc5rning
Mr Scorup ' did not come down ,:Eor breakfast because he ,was not t-here.' He ,
did not come in from the range until two weeks later. Who made the foot­steps?
We were told that it might be a wandering Indi an. How did' he get
downstairs? The stairs squeaked . We would have heard him for we slept
but very little the rest.of the night and very lightly at that.
'The farm was all in alfalfa and wa's located, on the Cottonwood Wash
near the Locomotive Rock(Photo on p 'age 45) .The irrigation water was
supplied bya well at the base of, the rock. The flow was qu~tesmall,s o
an earth dam had been built across a small ravine t0h61d the wa.ter.,
When rele'as'ed at irrigation 'time there was a good sized stream.
, I was a farmer now with team/wagon/mowingma.chine and hayrake. But
best of all I had a garage in which to start roy auto repair business. I
shall not bother you with the detail involved in the moving of the Post
Office; or , my few odd ' jobs onc;ars. I ' shall mention "one repair j~b be-c
a use it brought results least expected. '
. Willard Butt/had . a DOdge car that was not performirig wel~ and he .
'brought it to me. I suggested grinding the valves/cleaning the carbon
out of the cylinder head and installing new rings. If he had asked me ,
if I had ever done it before I would have been forced to tell him that I
had not and perhaps lost the job. He did not ask and told me to go at,
the job. His young son' watched the operation and helped me all he could.
I found the bearin