Chefs are swapping ground meat and red sauce for braised duck and pesto to update a classic, the humble meatball

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Meatballs usually play starring roles in countries like Italy, Sweden and Mexico. But they are finally coming into their own in American kitchens, where too often they have been relegated to bit parts with spaghetti and hoagies.

Chefs are leading the way for home cooks with brave new meats—duck, lamb or heritage pork rather than the usual ground beef–and accoutrements that could not be more removed from red sauce. Pesto, ricotta, feta, smoky chipotle chilies and more are being pressed into service with these stylish new meatballs. Easy and endlessly variable, meatballs can be served as an appetizer or as a main course, on their own or tucked into a bun as an alternative to burgers in sliders. And while they can be a fine Sunday supper, they are more than welcome as party food.

Directions
If possible, have your butcher grind the duck breasts; otherwise, freeze the meat for 15 minutes to make it easier to handle, then use a very sharp knife to mince it as fine as possible. Put in a bowl and add garlic, panko, eggs, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Mix very well. Shape into balls the size of very large walnuts and lay on a baking sheet lined with waxed paper. Cover with a second sheet of waxed paper and chill 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine stock, chipotles, onion, oregano and cumin in a wide, deep skillet saucepan. Bring to a simmer, cook 15 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Dredge the meatballs lightly in flour and put into the hot oil (work in batches if necessary). Sear on all sides, then transfer to the skillet with the stock. Bring to a simmer, cover and heat until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove the meatballs from their liquid with a slotted spoon and serve. (You can eat them plain or moistened with a little of the braising liquid; they can also be served with sour cream mixed with chopped cilantro and a little chipotle as a dip or sauce.) Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

Directions
Combine basil, pecans, 1/2 cup olive oil, half the garlic and 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano in a food processor and purée until smooth, adding more olive oil as needed to make a thick paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Pour a film of olive oil into a large skillet and heat over medium-high flame. Gently shape meat mixture into patties that are about 21/2 inches across and 3/4-inch thick. Lay in pan and fry 5 minutes on each side, or until cooked through.

While sliders cook, warm buns in low oven. Split in half and spread one side with pesto. Lay a slice of tomato on other side. Season with salt and pepper.

Lay patties on tomato slices, top with second halves and serve at once. Serves 4 to 6.