We were skeptics when someone told us to eat at Moosewood back in the late 1970s. At that time, vegetarian food had a hideous reputation, and rightfully so. It was a bad-joke cuisine made up of mock-meat, bitter twigs, and curdled beverages, generally served in restaurants that had all the charm of a locker room. The Moosewood Restaurant changed all that – at its original place, still in the Dewitt Mall in Ithaca, and in its great cookbooks, which have become scripture for meat-frowners. Meals at Moosewood have taught us that vegetarian food needn’t be a lame substitute for “real” food but that, in fact, no-meat cookery has pleasures all its own.

Moosewood is a brash, free-spirited enterprise that reminds us of an art gallery more than a restaurant. Dining is informal and inexpensive. Anything dressier than jeans would feel inappropriate, and service is communal, meaning that orders are taken and food is served by whichever member of the staff is available to perform the task at hand.

Our recent lunch included a Mexican and corn cheese pudding that was creamy, sweet, and gently peppery, topped with a garden-fresh tomato chile sauce. We also had a Small Planet Burger, also known as a tofu burger, which is anathema in the general scheme of Roadfood things. But the truth is that we had eaten a few pounds of steak at John Thomas the night before and Pinesburgers earlier in the day; and this lightweight patty of pseudo-beef, made from walnuts, vegetables, and tofu, had a rich, deep taste and a pleasing coarse-cut, crusty texture. It came smothered in good 1000 Island dressing on a thick piece of Moosewood toast.

While the menu lists vegan chocolate cake (made with no animal products whatsoever), we chose a fudge brownie topped with vanilla ice cream. By any standards, vegetarian or not, it was grand.

"Fresh mozz and tomatoes that would make Mama's Of Corona proud."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"Unsweetened lemonade is a real eye-opener. You can see the pulpiness of this lemonade through the glass."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"One of our party asked the waiter about the flower on our table. He didn't know, but told us he could get someone who did and sure enough, moments after he left, someone who was obviously in charge of Moosewood's flora came by to discuss it at length with her."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"The outside tables were empty during an intense but brief summer storm."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle