DESSERTS: GREEKS BEARING GIFTS

By Culturekiosque Staff

NEW YORK, 6 January 2007The Greek island of Chios lies just
five miles off the Turkish coast in the northern Aegean Sea. The purported
birthplace of Homer and Hippocrates, Chios is best known as the world's
exclusive source of mastiha, or mastic, a crystalline resin produced from
the bark of the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus ) that has
been cultivated there for millennia.

Originally used as a type of chewing gum to clean the teeth and freshen
the breath and in cosmetology as a skin cleanser, its medicinal properties
were first documented by Dioscorides (1st Century, B.C.), who is generally
considered the "father of pharmacology". The Greek physician and botanist
praised Chios Mastiha for its therapeutic effects on digestion, blood
reproduction, chronic coughing, and for its tranquilizing and aphrodisiac
effects.

Today, scientific studies have documented Mastiha's benefits in the
treatment of digestive disorders. For example, a research team from the
UKs Nottingham University has found that even small amounts of
mastic can destroy the helicobakter pylori bacteria, which only a
decade ago was recognised as the prime cause of peptic ulcers and stomach
cancer. It has also been shown to be a natural anti-oxidant and aids
in trauma healing and skin regenerationmuch as it does for the mastiha
tree itself.

It is, however, in the culinary world that Chios Mastiha is best
known. Traditionally brought out of the cupboard on Christmas and Easter,
to be pounded as a seasoning in holiday breads and biscuits, the musky,
slightly piney, incense-like spice is also exported and used by chefs and
food producers worldwide. Mastiha flavours Greek cakes and
breads, sweets, ice-creams, chocolates, scented cream
desserts, jams, liqueurs and aperitifs such as the traditional ouzo
mastiha.

In New York for an afternoon of recipe demonstrations, Greek celebrity
pastry chef and author Stelios Parliaros skillfully
created several desserts that proved the gastronomic versatility of
this ancient resin. The two most striking, the delicious and robust
Melomakarona (Greek Honey-Nut Cookies) with Mastiha and the rich,
strangely Byzantine, Dark Chocolate - Mastiha Frozen Mousse are reproduced
here.

Make the syrup. Bring the water and sugar to a boil over medium heat
and simmer for one minute. Add the honey and Mastiha liqueur and let cool
completely.

Place all the liquid ingredients and the butter in a large bowl. Add
the spices, baking soda and confectioner's sugar. Mx well with a rubber
spatula. Add the flour and mix gently by hand for a few minutes just until
the ingredients are combined. Do not overwork and do not be perplexed by
the soft, oily consistency of the dough; this is what gives the
meloakarona their crisp exterior texture and smooth interior.

Preheat the over to 180 C / 350 F

Take a walnut size piece of dough at a time and shape into a small
oval. Have a deep-fry basket or a small metal sieve nearby. Gently press
both sides of each piece onto the sieve or wire basket to make a
decorative patten and place on sheet pans lined with silicone mats. Bake
for 20 - 25 minutes until golden, firm and crisp. Remove.

Have the syrup ready and nearby in a large metal basin. Dip the hot
melomakarona immediately into the cold syrup. Remove with a slotted spoon.
Drain on a wire rack placed over a platter. Drizzle with the honey-walnut
mixture. Serve.

Whip the cream to soft peaks, cover with plastic wrap and keep at room
temperature.

If using mastiha crystals, pulverize together with the sugar to a fine
powder in a spice grinder.

Chop the chocolate into one-inch pieces and melt in a double boiler

While the chocolate is melting, prepare the syrup. In a separate small
pot, bring the mastiha-sugar mixture, corn syrup, and water to a boil over
medium heat. Add the hot syrup to the hot, melted chocolate, stirring
constantly with a whisk.

Alternatively: Pour the chocolate mixture into small
serving cups or glasses and serve warm or chilled as a mousse. The mixture
may also be used as a filling in layer cakes.

Stelios Parliaros was born in Instanbul in 1959. He studied at
the Ecole le Notre and the Ritz Hotel's Escoffier Academy in Paris. He is
the author of several books including the 2000 best-seller,
Chocolate . Additional information on the web about
the Greek patissier's books, recipes and pastry seminars in
Athens is available at: http://www.parliaros.gr

TIP:

Chios Mastiha is sold in many different forms. When used as a spice, it
is probably best to buy the crystals, which keep their flavour as all
whole spices do, and grind them according to need. The crystals need
to be pounded in a mortar or pestle or spice grinder, but always with the
addition of either a little salt (for savory foods) or a little sugar (for
sweets). Half a teaspoon of ground Mastiha, whether commercial or freshly
ground, usually goes a long way in cooking and baking.