In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

The anti-inflammatory and protease-inhibiting activity of triterpene esters is reported in the literature and reviewed here. These findings indicate the material’s potential for reducing skin stress induced by environmental factors. In consideration, studies were conducted to assess the various effects of shea butter triterpene esters on skin inflammation, barrier thickness and collagen production.

Jun 10, 2015

Jun 4, 2015Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to hair care and styling, including edelweiss to stop hair graying and even restore hair color; minerals to address dandruff; phenolic compound blends for hair shine and protection; block polymers to increase foam in hair products; inventions that combine hair styling and care; and more.

Jun 1, 2015Muhammad Hamza, University of California, San Francisco, and Dow University of Health Sciences, Karachi, Pakistan; and Howard I. Maibach, M.D., University of California, San Francisco

Despite its being an area of concern for many years, the percutaneous absorption of cosmetics has not been rigorously studied. Additionally, the effects of shaving on this process are relatively unknown. An overview of recent research reveals that more research in this area is required.

Cleansing and conditioning are basic steps in a typical hair care routine, and efforts are continually under way to develop novel and improved systems for such functions—especially considering various consumer lifestyles and hair types. This brief review highlights a few recent advances in trending hair cleansing and conditioning systems.

May 13, 2015

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This collection features inventions related to color and skin care applications for pigment wetting and dispersion, anti-inflammation, gloss, controlled delivery and microbe inhibition/enhancement.

May 1, 2015Katerina Steventon, FaceWorkshops, LLC

Our skin is often the first thing others notice about us, so its impact on our self-image and esteem is considerable. Accounting for all of the skin’s traits and the causes of them requires a multifactor approach to keep it clear, smooth and supple.

This article reviews the role of skin microflora in protecting skin, and assesses how the histone deacetylase (HDAC) enzyme is implicated. From this, HDAC expression is used as an indicator to compare the effects of traditional biocides and preservatives with natural antimicrobials on skin’s microbiome. Results suggest the latter effectively preserve products while maintaining a healthy microbiome.

Nanotechnology is a rapidly expanding area of research for developing science-based solutions for innovative therapeutics. Recently, silica nanoparticles (SNPs) have emerged in cosmetics and dermal preparations, offering revolutionary application by controlling the sustained release of cosmetic ingredients and/or drugs and enhanced skin penetration.

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Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.