Adding new ceiling fan remote controls

Photo 1: Check the fit

Slide the ceiling fan remote receiver into the
space above the down
rod. If it doesn't fit, try other
locations inside the canopy.

Photo 2: Set the transmitter

Flip the DIP switches to
change the transmitter
frequency if you have problems
with interference. The switch positions
on both ceiling fan remote units must match.

There are many “universal”
ceiling fan remote control kits on the market for overhead fans controlled by pull chains and a singe wall switch. All of them feature on/off and
fan speed control. Others also offer
light-dimming and thermostatic control
capabilities. But whether you
can use a ceiling fan remote kit depends on the amount
of free space inside the fan canopy.

Many “ceiling hugger”–style fans
have enough free space for the receiver for the ceiling fan remote.
But “down-rod” styles may not.
Shut off the circuit breaker to the fan
and lower the canopy (use a voltage
sniffer to make sure the power is really
off). Check the fit of the receiver before
you commit to wiring it in permanently.
Keep your receipt just in case.

With the power off, connect the hot
and neutral wires to the “AC-in” wires
on the receiver. Then connect the three
remaining wires to the fan and light
(they’re labeled by the manufacturer).

If you have neighbors nearby, you
may have to change the frequency on
the ceiling fan remote transmitter and receiver to prevent
you or your neighbors from controlling
one another’s fans (see Photo 2).

Fixing ceiling fan problems

Photo 1: Remove the capacitor

Reach into the housing and gently pull out the capacitor.
Untangle it from the other wires. Then cut the capacitor
lead wires one at a time, or remove the wire nuts and
cut off the wire strands.

Photo 2: Shop for a new capacitor and switch

Note the number of wires and the microfarad (uf) rating
on the old capacitor. Buy a new one with the same
number of wires and uf rating.

Photo 3: Insert the capacitor, then the wires

Apply double-sided
foam tape to the capacitor and stick
it to the housing cap. Then pack the wires into the
center, making sure the wire nuts stay connected.

A ceiling fan can run nonstop for
years without a hint of a problem.
Then, out of the blue, it can quit completely,
stop working on some speeds
or start making a loud humming
sound. You may think the motor is
shot, but it’s probably not. Those are
all symptoms of a burned-out capacitor.
The capacitor and the pull chain
switch are the only two components
that control the fan speeds. Switches
rarely wear out. But they can break if
you pull the chain too hard or it gets
caught in the blades. You can hedge
your bets and replace both the capacitor
and the switch in less than an hour
for about $20. Here’s how.

Start by shutting off the power to
the fan and the lights (if equipped).
You’ll have to gain access to the housing
where the speed and direction
switches are located. In fans without
lights, just remove the bottom cover.
Double-check the power with a voltage
sniffer before you stick your fingers
in the housing. If your fan has
lights, remove the globes and bulbs.
Then remove the light kit. That’ll
expose the wiring in the housing.

Next, remove the capacitor (Photo
1, below). A burned-out capacitor might have
a burned smell, swollen sides or
scorch marks. Those are sure signs it’s
bad. But even if yours appears to be in
good shape, replace it anyway because
it’s still the most likely cause of your
speed/humming problem (Photo 2, below). If
you have any doubts about the fan
switch, replace it, too. Remove the
pull-chain switch by unscrewing the
knurled outer knob. Pull the switch
into the housing and disconnect the
wires. Take both pieces to a ceiling fan
or appliance parts store to get replacements.
If you don’t have a local source
for parts, go to eceilingfans.com. Click
on the “Capacitors” or “Wall Switches”
tab to match each to a replacement.
Finish the job by connecting the new
parts and tucking everything back into the housing (Photo 3).

Fixing A Ceiling Fan Remote Control

Ceiling fans with factory remote controls don’t use traditional
capacitors to control fan speed. The remote receiver
varies the voltage and current to change the fan motor
speed. But ceiling fan remote control units can go bad too. Before you
even think about tearing the fan apart to diagnose a problem,
replace the batteries in the transmitter first. Then press
the transmitter buttons to see if the LEDs light up. If you’re
not sure whether the problem is in the transmitter or
receiver, you can send both units to eceilingfans.com for
testing (testing and repair usually run about $25). The
receiver is usually tucked into
the fan’s mounting bracket,
which is connected to
the electrical box.