Orbis Ring Flash Kit: Product Reviews: Adorama Photography TV

This entry was posted on Monday, June 11th, 2012 at 8:36 am and is filed under Portrait Photography.
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You’ll be doing TTL (through-the-lens) metering, which means that the camera/flash system is already compensating for the loss as far as it can. Once the flash is at full power, though, you﻿ can’t force it to go any higher, so you can get too far away from your subject for the amount of light your flash can throw. You would need to increase the ISO sensitivity to be able to work at a greater distance with the same amount of light.

Secondly, another beginner question, if wanting to compensate for light loss thru the modifier, should the shooter increase exposure﻿ compensation via the camera +/- compensation or override the flash power to deliver more light to give the high key look?

Beginner slightly off topic question﻿ – if doing a portrait shot such as in the video example, what would be a preferred focal length? In my gear (DX format) I have a 35mm prime which would be my pick, but is it too wide? I read that on DX format the 35mm is similar to around 50mm full frame. I guess it depends on the subject and the wanted effect, but as a rule of thumb, is something closer to 85 or 105 preferred? My other lens choice would be kit 18-70 or 55-200. thanks

And, as I explained at the beginning of my comment, there are shadow patterns specific to ringlights that are appealing for some uses. A huge number of fashion and celebrity/portrait images made over the last couple of decades (most notably the SNL guest host pictures) were made using﻿ just a ring flash for lighting. Don’t get locked into any kind of “one and only way” thinking in any creative endeavor — you’re just needlessly restricting your artistic vocabulary.

The Ray Flash needs to be a perfect fit for the flash and camera to get the lens properly centred in the ring and the unit securely connected to the flash, and it is kind of sensitive to position (it﻿ really can’t be used pointing down on many flashes since it will tilt the flash head). It *is* a good product, but it, too, has its compromises.

The effect is different, but the light isn’t absolutely flat. Surfaces reflect less light back to the camera when they’re angled﻿ away from the parallel, so axial light (like ring lighting) produces distinct outlining of rounded forms. And when used as a fill light, ring lights have no peer — a ringlight will not produce secondary shadows or anomalous highlights. There’s a reason or two why working professionals pay serious money for these things.

Yes﻿ — if you use the flash in a dark environment. But remember, this isn’t a flash, it’s just a modifier for the flash you already have, so if your flash has a red-eye reduction mode, so does this rig. It’s not ordinarily a problem in the studio, though, since there’s enough ambient light available to close down the subject’s pupils to the point that the ring is far enough from the lens to prevent red-eye.

4.760 kg. Well you got to be ‘big’…lol…I use﻿ the rig flash with a T2i the 580exII and either the 15-85mm or (I like how they come out 8mm sigma wide wide rectilinear no batt grip. Still gets a bit of a burden but a few weeks a go did a wedding 1400 with a 5d a 24-105+ a 70-200 a 580 exII and a Gary Fong sort of flash attachement it was ym test…lol..regards…O