Less expensive alternative is to buy spare Rotten Green Switches from Amazon and install yourself. A simple change out. The internal rubber parts of the switches seem to deteriorate over time. Mine failed at 10 years and about 35,000 miles. I installed new rotten green switches and all is working properly. Some kind of a park brake is necessary, since the transmission used does not have a parking pawl. Thus, without the AutoPark or a replacement, manual parking brake, the MH is free to roll when not in Drive or Reverse.

I started a string to try to establish some kind of history of Land Yacht owners with thier AutoPark, but am still awaiting feedback.

I have a 95 33ft land yacht with auto park and a foot parking brake. If I drove the rig every day the auto park work great. If it was parked for a couple of weeks, the auto park was slow to release (4 to 8 minutes). Finally getting ready for a trip I noticed a pool of fluid under the actuator. Trip canceled. I found a shop in Sacramento that knew the system and with Google search on the P-30 system found Jose Crespo in Miramar Florida. We removed the actuator, put it a large flat rate postal box and shipped to Jose, He rebuilt it for $400.00 and I had it back in Calif in 5 working days. My auto-park problem was fixed. We also replaced the rotten switches. Another problem that can be overlooked is a cam switch that is high behind the fire wall that is actuated by the shift linkage. We changed mine by cutting a hole high in the driver side wheel well to get access. I would not remove the auto-park system. FIX IT. If you alter the brake system on a coach and sell it you are going to be responsible for that system.

Welcome to the forum. The autopark is necessary as then tranny does not have a park pawl as mentioned previously. Besides there would be legal issues if it was removed. You do not mention year of coach and chassis as there are some differences. If your coach has the APB, carry a spare green and grey switch and familiarize yourself with the system.

Oldused bear is at Oemy's Web Site - J71 Autopark and is the expert on the J71 APB and offers good advice for free. He does rebuild the actuator for a lot less than the $400 mentioned previously.

If you removed the AP and were involved in an accident, everything would be on your plate. Check with oldusedbear at the autopark library at omeys site at the link I gave you previously. From your year of coach you do not have the J71 maybe a J72 and is a workhorse chassis when AS sold it. OUB is also resident at IRV2 in the Chev/wh page.

Has anyone removed the auto park brake from a Land yacht rather than fix it?
Looking for advice on whether it is necessary.

It is necessary as transmission doesn't have a parking prawl, if it is removed or permanently disconnected from the hydraulics you still need a parking brake and can use the drum on the transmission.
You have the worst part Chevy ever designed, but most fix it but some others have removed it. Mine had quit working in my driveway, I fixed it, but on last trip a blown fuse caused it to apply while at 60mph on interstate. It smelled of burning and it removed a lot of brake shoe. Once I determined it wasn't rubbing I drove it another 60 miles to destination, at camp I disconnected system and drove a couple hundred miles home. Didn't have a parking brake so when we stopped made sure to put chocks and overnight used the lifts. When I took it apart at the transmission drum found one shoe wore down about half way other looked good but both were glazed and the drum had a glaze, cleaned it up and put it back together, haven't yet tested on the road.

Some PO already removed our auto park brake, so we are glad not to have the problems associated with it. However we have to be sure to apply (and release) the parking brake. We are installing a light to remind us it is on, and likely a sign on the dash to remind us to put it on.
We bought our unit from a dealer. If it had been from the person who took the brake system off, hopefully he would have warned us. The light and sign should take care of that for a future owner.

Gee Dave, That sounds terrifying. Did the M/h brake in a straight path? were you pulling a toad? Do you know what caused the fuse to blow?
Advice to the rest of us??
thanks

Yes, pulling toad, handled fine.
When I fixed the hydraulic pump by having it rebuilt, I decided to replace the RGS, which caused another problem, threads were over tightened by previous mechanic stripping threads, fixed that and continued on to add the recommended idiot proof lights to show when the system is working.
While on the interstate with lots of construction I felt a big bump and notice the lights were all out on the system, then I smelled the burning brake drum, slowed, moved right and continued until off interstate, by the time I was in normal traffic no smell, tach normal for speed, no noises so continued on, checked at a RV dealer and found they don't do chassis work, kept driving gaining confidence that the burn was over and camped for a week. before I broke camp I disconnected the autobrake and drove 200 miles home without incident. Still haven't determined exact cause of power failure but right now it is not blowing fuse, cleaned up glaze on shoes, reconnected and seems to be working ok, without the extra lights. The on dash lights show it coming on and turning off on command with yellow switch and putting it in and out of park.
Can't give advice, just relating facts, too many legal questions to ponder what is right, if you disconnect you lose parking brake, only a problem when parked on a slope. Chocks and lifts work but a pia to use everytime you shut down. CRS would mandate like one poster did, he installed a warning light to manually put on the parking brake he installed. 60 yrs of leaving vehicles in gear or auto trans into park without a second thought. Have you tried to remove the key from a new vehicle, won't come out unless it is in park. Can't get it into drive without having foot on brake pedal, all steps to idiot proof the driving experience