Sunday, 14 December 2014

Moonraker, Berry Head

Rob lounging in the sunshine at the base of The Great Cave below Moonraker (HVS 5a), Berry Head

Having just moved down from Scotland I was worried I may not find the same inspiration to go climbing as I did up north with its abundance of mountain crags, so I needed something special to re-knew my excitement to be back in sunny Devon! Luckily we had a cunning plan! The Old Redout at Berry Head is amongst the finest sea cliff venues you'll find anywhere in the Southwest. It’s limestone precipices cascading into the turquoise ocean exclusify access to all
but the most intrepid explorer so this seemed like the ideal proposition to re-knew some psyche. The pièce de résistance of the areas lithological
architecture is of course the Great Cave, a seemingly impenetrable
series of monstrous roofs as overhung as they are high. For some this presents
the Southwests ultimate challenge and is the ideal proving ground for skill,
stamina and probably considerable lunacy! Merely the names of the routes here
can’t help but excite the imagination; Caveman, Dreadnought, The Lip Trip. For
the mentally stable there are more conceivable alternatives the most celebrated of which is of course
Pat Littlejohn and Pete Biven’s 1967 route; Moonraker (HVS 5a) which provides an excellent vantage point to view the afformented lines however the rout itself is no pushover. It climbs the initial
overhanging wall via a long traverse and then drives a central line straight up
the cliff for over 100 feet to the top and is more adventurous than Ranulph Fiennes with blank cheque book courtesy of the Government!

Rob making the arduous traverse out of the cave above the seaover to the starting ledge of Moonraker

I’ve heard you can abseil to the bottom, however you have to
remember to kick out and generate some perpetual motion otherwise you’re left
dangling above the ocean faced with either a long climb back up or a swim! The
more favoured way is round the side where a descent path leads through a gate
and down a steep grassy slope until you reach a small rocky bay at the top of
the cliff. Rather alarmingly from the off you’re confronted with a particularly steep looking blind step which marks the start of the traverse into the Great Cave. We
lowered ourselves gingerly round very conscious of the 30 foot drop into the
sea and eventually
landed on the slabs below the jaw dropping Great Cave which loomed overhead. We
sat and worked the impossible looking lines which dissect it before turning our
attention to the equally impossible looking Moonraker. Tracing its line up the through
cracks and over guano covered ledges makes for an intimidating exercise but
essential none the less!

Making the strenuous traverse out toward the hanging crackon the first pitch of Moonraker. Photo from Rob

From here we had to scramble to the back of the cave then hand traverse out
along its overhanging wall on bucket sized holds. Easy right? Well it would be
if it wasn't for the dazzling light as you exit the cave and all the bucket
holds being filled with sea water! After some grunting and burling we
eventually reached a large ledge clinging desperately to the base of the
overhanging cliff and got ready for it all to step up a gear!

The second pitch of Moonraker high over the swishing tide by now! Photo from Rob

I then led the traverse out and up above the calm sea lapping at the cliff. The
exposure is incredible as you move up the steepening wall to a tough move past
a peg to the base of a crack. Because I had laced the lower section with some
much gear I was quite pumped when I got to the overhanging crack but the holds are big and I managed to find a rest. After the crack a quick skip across the
sopping hanging slab I reached the belay. Rob then raced up wondering why I was
fannying about so much! Rob then led the next small 4c pitch up to a wonderful
ledge belay below the final corner pitch. Crux led, I was quite happy to let
him have the corner pitch as well which he danced up with no bother. The last pitch is
outstanding climbing in a sensational position with a couple of ‘thinky’ moves with
great gear . I defiantly regretted letting him have that one but hey I guess I'll have to go back! The route is truly deserving of its legendary status and kudos to anybody that climbed it in big boots and breeches using a hemp rope and wooden wedges!

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More about Sam

I live for everything outdoors and to me a bad day in the hills still beats a good day in the office. Climbing and mountaineering are my main passion, you may have already guessed that from my blog content though! If you have any questions about my blog or anything at all don't hesitate to get in touch.