Best thing about this siteThis Lake District location is astounding. In a breathtaking valley overlooking Ullswater, the only noise you'll hear (other than fellow campers when the place is heaving) is the gentle bleating of sheep on the slopes of Place Fell. There's no playground, no bar, no pool. It's camping for those who like to get away from the trappings of modern society and, well, camp.

AmbienceUsually very tranquil. There's not many revellers here (where would they revel?) as the site doesn't take big groups unless agreed in advance.

ActivitiesIf fell-walking is your thing, Side Farm is heaven in a haversack. Helvellyn, England's third highest peak, and Striding Edge are within easy reach (though it takes a full day to get to the top of the mountain and back). Place Fell is a less arduous four-hour yomp. Or you can hire row boats and bicycles from St Patrick's Boat Landings in Glenridding (01768 482393).

Food and drinkYou can buy eggs, milk and groceries in the village. The White Lion in Patterdale is a chips-with-everything kind of place, the Travellers Rest in Glenridding is more homely, while the Inn on the Lake (formerly the Ullswater Hotel) is "now a bit posh", apparently.

Kids' stuffThere isn't much actual stuff laid on for children on the site, but those of us from the pre-portable DVD era like playing with them in the stream at the bottom of the slope, organising skimming contests, renting canoes and seeing what they can catch for dinner, etc. There's also hiking if you can persuade them, and good fishing and canoeing on Ullswater, too.

Unexpected delightCatching the steamer from Ullswater to Howtown and walking back along the shore provides two or three hours of gentle loveliness.

Potential drawbacksOther than going with children who miss their portable DVD players, this site gets very crowded over bank holidays so arrive at crack-of-dawn to beat the stampede for the pick of the pitches.

If the heavens openDo what you'd do in the dry, just put a cagoule on first. Failing that, there's the Rookin House centre at Troutbeck (rookinhouse.co.uk) near Keswick, which offers horse-riding, quad-biking, archery and human bowling (don't ask). Fans of Peter Rabbit can head to Hill Top in Ambleside; this gorgeous 17th-century farmhouse was once owned by Beatrix Potter and the surrounding hills inspired many of her enchanting tales. The building is now owned by the National Trust and visitors can see a selection of original watercolours in the nearby gallery.

Top tipWhen you first arrive, don't go to the trouble of making that all-important cup of tea. Head for the farm's teashop and have a thick slice of homemade cake while contemplating your perfect pitch.

How to get thereBy car Side Farm is on the A592 south of Ullswater lake - it's the only road running through Patterdale village. The campsite is signposted off this road between the school and the church.

By bus Take the 108 bus from Penrith railway station to the Patterdale Hotel, then walk away from it looking for the above-mentioned signpost. Side Farm is at the bottom of that lane.