This retrospective tasting provided a great opportunity to
revisit the first seven releases of Manfred and Elaine Krankl’s Next of Kyn. As
compelling as the Krankls’ Sine Qua Non wines are, I have always found Next of
Kyn to be just as fascinating, especially in recent years. This vertical only
served to reinforce that impression.

The Sine Qua Non Winery, Oak View

Manfred and Elaine Krankl are best known for the sumptuous,
racy Sine Qua Non Syrahs and Grenaches that have brought them considerable
acclaim since their very first release with the 1994 vintage. A succession of
brilliant wines allowed the Krankls to increasingly focus on estate vineyards
(instead of relying on purchased fruit) and build their own winemaking facility,
both of which are the dream of any young producer.

In 2003, the Krankls purchased a sprawling ranch in Oak
View, just south of Santa Barbara, that is home to a new, modern winery and the
family residence. The land is full of snaking contours, hillsides and other
sections that are more like elevated plateaus. Readers visiting the region will
note the absence of vineyards nearby. For many years, locals believed vineyards
in this area were highly susceptible to Pierce’s Disease, which restricts water
flow to plants and can completely wipe out vineyards in a very short time span.

Cumulus Vineyard, Oak
View

The Krankls planted the first blocks of what they call Cumulus Vineyard with Syrah, Grenache and Roussanne in 2004. Cumulus is the
Krankls’ first true estate vineyard (Eleven Confessions in the Sta. Rita Hills
was first leased and only recently acquired outright). Petite Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Touriga Nacional, Petit Manseng and a bit more Syrah were added in 2008. One of
the most dramatic sections of Cumulus is a high-density block of Syrah planted
on own-rooted, head-trained vines.

In 2007, the Krankls released their first wine from Cumulus
under their Next of Kyn sister label. In keeping with their penchant for
creative labels, bottle designs and packaging, Next of Kyn is sold in a large
box that contains one magnum and three standard 750-ml bottles. The first three
vintages were essentially Syrah-based, with some Grenache and Roussanne. With
the 2010, the Syrah/Grenache-dominated blend grew to include Petite Sirah,
Mourvèdre
and Touriga Nacional as the newer blocks came on line. Another recent
development has been an increase of the use in whole clusters, something that
is true at Sine Qua Non as well. The first vintages of Next of Kyn were done
with fully destemmed fruit. In 2010, Next of Kyn was done with around 24% whole
clusters, while the 2013 was fermented with nearly 60% stems, although the stem
component is not especially apparent in the wines. Next of Kyn spends around 30
months in French oak, with around 50% new oak for the most recent releases.

But wine is never about numbers. Above all else, in this
tasting I was impressed with the differences between the vintages, and more importantly,
the way Next of Kyn ages. Even the first editions – which are not
representative of today’s wines because the blends are different and the vines
were very young at the time – have aged beautifully. Some of the more recent
releases, including the 2012, 2013 and 2014 (which is reviewed in my upcoming
article on new releases from Santa Barbara) are stunning wines.

The 2007 Next of Kyn
- No. 1 is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic nuance and
complexity. Sweet red cherry, plum, rose petal, coffee, tobacco and earthy
notes give the wine its distinctive aromatic signatures. At nearly ten years of
age, the 2007 remains vibrant and full of life. Some of the baby fat has melted
away, but there is enough depth and vibrancy to support at least another decade
of exceptional drinking. Silky, creamy tannins add to the wine’s sheer appeal. This
is a fabulous debut for Manfred and Elaine Krankl’s Next of Kyn project. In a
word: sublime. A dark, brooding wine, the 2008
Next of Kyn - No. 2 packs a serious punch. Black cherry, gravel, graphite,
smoke, licorice and dark spice convey an impression of gravitas that is
reinforced by the wine’s deep, vertical structure. Although the 2008 can be enjoyed now with
air, it needs at least another few years in bottle to fully unwind.

The 2009 Next of Kyn
- No. 3 comes across as a mix of the 2007 and 2008, with the sensual
richness of the former and the darker profile of the latter. Because of its
impeccable balance, the 2009 is hugely rewarding today. Succulent dark cherry,
cloves, menthol and licorice add nuance throughout, but above all else, the
2009 is a wine that can be enjoyed with minimum fuss over the next decade or
so. With the 2010 Next of Kyn - No. 4
we shift into more recent vintages, none of which is truly ready to drink. Powerful,
tightly wound and unyielding, the 2010 needs at least a few years in bottle
before it is ready to show even the faintest glimpse of its true potential. Tasted
on the second and third days after opening, the 2010 gradually started to show
some of its true character, but readers should not plan on opening a bottle
anytime soon.

High-density Syrah
planted on own-rooted, head-trained vines

The 2011Next of Kyn - No. 5, from one of the
most maligned California vintages in recent memory, is quite attractive, if a
bit compact. Although very much light to medium in body next to the other wines
in this tasting, the 2011 is full of perfume, freshness and bright fruit. If
anything, the 2011 still needs time to develop the full breadth of its aromatic
complexity. In this tasting, the 2011 is more reticent than it has been in the
past. One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2012Next of Kyn - No. 6 belongs
to a group of vintages including 2007 and 2009 that are all about suppleness
and raciness. Bright, perfumed and nicely lifted, the 2012 is also quite
delicate. Grenache plays an important role in the blend, and that comes through
in the wine’s silky, punchy fruit. Further time in bottle will allow the
aromatics to develop more fully, but the 2012 is absolutely delicious today.
Moreover, its sense of poise is truly exceptional.

Here in its seventh edition, the 2013 Next of Kyn - No. 7 is utterly profound. It is also my
favorite wine in this vertical.Powerful,
dark and structured, with tremendous energy, the 2013 will leave readers weak
at the knees because of its magnificent purity. Readers will have to give the
2013 at least a few years in bottle to unwind and develop the full range of its
aromatics. Its greatness, though, has been evident since the very beginning.
This is another superb showing from the 2013.