With a relatively small number of growers in both Quincy and Reuilly and a
fair amount of cross-pollination (a reference to various Quincy producers
now making wine in Reuilly), I have offered a combined ‘Ten of the
Best’. It’s no coincidence that the two most prolific growers in
Reuilly (and who are both dedicated solely to the vine) enjoy the greatest
reputation and are obviously included in the ‘Top Ten’ below. The
precocious nature of these wines means that no tasting notes are offered.
Evaluations have been made primarily using the 2009 vintage as a
benchmark. The growers are listed in alphabetical order.

The
Best Ten producers in Quincy and Reuilly:

Domaine Bigonneau (Quincy and Reuilly)

Claude Lafond (Reuilly)

Domaine Lecomte (Quincy)

Domaine André Pigeat (Quincy)

Domaine de Reuilly(Reuilly)

Jacques Rouzé (Quincy and Reuilly)

Domaine Trotereau (Quincy)

Domaine de Villalin (Quincy)

Jacques Vincent (Reuilly)

Chantal Wilk & Jacques Tatin (Quincy and Reuilly)

Ten honourable addresses in Quincy:

Domaine Sylvian Bailly (Quincy)

Domaine de la Commanderie (Quincy and Reuilly)

Domaine de Chevilly (Quincy)

Domaine du Coudray (Quincy)

Domaine des Grands Ormes(Quincy)

Philippe Portier (Quincy)

Valérie Renaudat (Reuilly and Quincy)

Jean-Claude Roux (Quincy)

Jacques Siret, Domaine du Grand Rosiers(Quincy)

Vincent Siret-Courtaud (Quincy)

Overview

Reuilly is a
rather dull little town that comes to life once a week when the Main
square is abuzz with market traders plying their wares. Given the average
age of the clientele, one could be forgiven in thinking that many might
have been making the Friday pilgrimage ever since 1675 when the town
received its own charter to host a weekly market from Louis XIV.

The first time visitor might well question whether Reuilly is at the heart
of a wine producing region at all given the apparent absence of vines.
Situated on the eastern edge of the Indre département,
arable farming dominates this landscape, with vast prairies stretching as
far as the distant horizon. The vineyards appear almost incidental
especially in light of the fact that the average céréalier
personally holds more land than the entire 200 hectares that make up the
appellation.

But Reuilly’s modest wealth was not built on agriculture. Whilst its
name has been associated with wine for centuries, the town’s history
revolves more around minor industry prompted, initially in 1847, by the
arrival of the railway which adjoined it to the Paris to Toulouse line.
Would be industrialists soon arrived and began establishing textile mills
along the banks of the Arnon. By 1851 the population of the town had
boomed to 2,500 due to the ready supply of work. In their time the mills
provided employment for 500 people, with Reuilly enjoying a reputation for
the quality of its undergarments. At one point road signs into the town
proudly proclaimed ‘Reuilly, ses
vins et sa lingerie’.

Whilst most other agricultural regions of France have political leanings
to the right, the majority of the inhabitants of Reuilly tend to hold
opposing views, a legacy of its proletarian past. Even today it supports a
socialist mayor, Patrick Bertrand (who has held office since 1996), with
the political division in the town extending as far as the annual
Saint-Vincent festival with the vignerons
of Reuilly celebrating two Saint-Vincent festivals in January - one
for either side of the political divide - although not necessarily on the
same day.

The economic crisis
and the poor run of vintages in the early 1970s had an adverse effect on
viticulture resulting, in 1977, to plantings dwindling to just 48
hectares. It was not until the late 1980s that there was any sense of
revival as farmers, distressed by low cereal prices, looked to take
advantage of the growing demand for Sauvignon based wines. Subsequent
improvements in quality over the past two decades come down to the
pioneering spirit of Claude Lafond (or, in Quincy, Jean Tatin) who helped
co-ordinate these agriculteur-vignerons,
encouraged the planting of better quality vineyard material and were
instrumental in establishing a central co-operation (rather than
co-operative) cellar which, in itself helped to ensure that the overall
quality delivered within the appellation is consistently high.

Organic
vineyard growth and a strong domestic following have also ensured that
supply never appears to exceed demand and prices remain stable (and
sensible) as a result. Yet satisfyingly, prices are generally considerably
lower than those commanded by the Sancerrois,
with the wines of Reuilly generally being between two-thirds and
three-quarters that demanded in Sancerre, whilst the overall quality is
often its equal. Unlike in Quincy, however, there is no active négociant
market, with all the wines of Reuilly being sold by bona-fide producers.
Until the late 1990s there was practically no demand on export for the red
wines of the appellation, with all rouge
and gris consumed locally.
According to the Bureau
Interprofessionnel des VinsduCentre’s (BIVC) official
figures, Reuilly exports just 16% of its production, (compared to
Sancerre’s 53%) which can be ascribed to a lack of international
recognition and to the understandable confusion that exists between the
appellations of Reuilly and the
Burgundian Rully.

Despite the close proximity of Reuilly to Quincy (they are no more than
ten minute drive apart) it is surprising that there has been no historic
cross-pollination between the two appellations. It is only with the
current generation of growers that this has started to happen with the vignerons
of
Quincy
exploiting Reuilly’s right to produce red, rosé and gris, thus helping the growers to embellish their existing mono-cépage
offering. The decision is purely commercial.

HistoryGrape
pips found in large quantities on the banks of the river Arnon at Lignières,
about 50 kilometres upstream of Reuilly, indicate that an ancient
settlement had actively cultivated the vine.

Certainly vineyards have been cultivated in the Berry since Roman times,
although no documentary evidence exists as to which varieties these might
have been. Officially the vine arrived in Reuilly via the church when, as
legend has it, King Dagobert I (628-637) donated Ruilliacum
(the original name of the town which dates back to 526) its meadows and
vineyards, along with another 22 villages, to the monks of the Abbaye
Royale de Saint-Denis-en-France, located just to the north of Paris. The
exact dates offered in various texts conflict with one another, but
possibly either 630, 637 or 645.

The town was attacked and pillaged by the Normans in 902 and also suffered
invasion by the English during the Hundred Years’ War before being
recaptured by Bertrand du Guesclin in around 1370.

It’s believed that
Sauvignon Blanc was selected from wild plants (or sauvages, hence the name) by the Benedictine monks who established
vines at the abbey at Beauvoir, close to Quincy, during The Middle Ages.
Meanwhile it was Augustine monks who were responsible for planting Savignum
around the abbey at Saint-Satur (at the foot of the famous hill of
Sancerre) and at Charité, located on the bank opposite Pouilly-sur-Loire.
The religious influence during this period extends to various depictions
of the viticultural year - in both painting and sculpture – which can be
observed throughout the churches of the Berry; recently restored stone
carvings on the Gothic porch of the Cathédrale Saint-Etienne in Bourges
were originally completed in around 1225.

In 1202, religious
leaders, installed at the Abbaye Royale de Saint-Denis implemented a
charter giving the Prior the sole right to sell the wine of Reuilly.
Similarly, in 1365, Jean, Duc de Berry (1340-1416), son of King John II,
issued a document which governed its production; fixing the date of the
harvest and also establishing a levy on all the wine from Reuilly. Later,
in 1466, reconfirmation of the charter of 1202 reserved three days a year
at the local priory for the sale of the new vintage and set out the amount
that each wine grower had to donate to their overlord.

During this time,
the reputation of the wines from the vineyards of Reuilly was spreading
further than the medieval towns of Bourges and Vierzon as barrels were
shipped along the tributaries of the Cher and Arnon to their confluence
with the Loire and then transported as far as England and Flanders.

Around 1557 Nicolas
de Nicolas, geographer to Henri II (1591-1559), heaped praise on the wines
of Reuilly, pronouncing them the best produced in the Berry and nine years
later, Jean Charmeau honoured the vineyards of Lury in his work L’Histoire du Berry. Later, in 1701, Gaspard-Thaumas de la
Thaumassière (1650-1715) an historian and legal advisor based in
Bourges
, put Reuilly at the top of his list in his book Coutumes
du Berry.

In 1685 the court of
Louis XIV granted Jacques de la Fond, Seigneur de la Ferté (and secretary
to the King) 179 arpents
(5.25ha) whilst the Prieur de
Reuilly was granted 245 arpents
(about 7.2 hectares) of vineyard land. During this period the vines
extended to between 250 and 300 hectares in size. After the French
Revolution the vineyards attached to the Château de la Ferté and those
of the Abbaye Royale de Saint-Denis and La Commanderie de l’Ormeteau
were sold off. During this period, the vineyards extended to around 200 arpents
(about 102ha) in Diou and neighbouring Migny, 450 arpents
(229ha) in Reuilly, with vines extending far and beyond the town of
Issoudun, some twenty kilometres to the south.

In 1816, André
Jullien, the most renowned commentator on wine of his day, celebrates both
Reuilly and Chabris (a village to the north-west on the banks of the Cher)
in his work Topographie de tous les
vignobles connus for the quality of their white wines. In 1864 the
wines of Issoudun were served at the table of Napoleon III and a barrel of
wine from local vigneron and
mayor of Reuilly, a Monsieur Martin (a name still associated with
viticulture in the appellation), was given to the Emperor.

Until the end of the
19th Century both red and white wines were produced in the
region, but with increasing competition from producers in the
Midi
, the growers began to increasingly vinify their red grapes as gris.

The first recorded
incidence of phylloxera in the Indre was in 1878 and by 1884 it had been
identified in the commune. Within a period of just five years, plantings
had dwindled from 340 hectares to less than 100ha. In December 1885 the
first American vines were distributed (with ten different cépages
available) along with rootstocks which included Rupestris, Riperia and
Solonis.

The growers
established their first ever syndicat
in 1889.

APPELLATION CONTRÔLÉE
The acknowledged father of the appellation was Doctor Lucien Apard
(1886-1975). Mayor of Reuilly between 1929 and 1944, Dr Apard initiated
the discussions with the fledgling I.N.A.O. and as a result, Reuilly was
awarded AC status in 1937, just a year after the Appellation Contrôlée
system started.

At that time, the
right to the appellation was awarded to four communes only: Reuilly, Diou,
Lazenay and Chéry and was for white wine only. For the first four years
of its existence, Sauvignon only had to represent 60% of the blend; the
balance being made up of a wide range of other varieties that included
Chasselas, Muscadelle, Vouvray (Chenin), Pinot Blanc, Damery, Gamay Blanc
and Melon, but in the first of several revisions, in February 1941, the
authorities abolished all the non-Sauvignon varieties.

After the Second
World War, the vogue was for rosé and local restaurants would serve Vin
Gris de Pinot Gris by the fillette
(a half bottle in Burgundy or 500ml elsewhere in France). Vigneron
Gérard Cordier’s grandfather used to deliver barrels of gris to bars and cafés in Vierzon and Bourges, where customers
would order a chopine - a half
litre carafe - and drink it from beakers. As a result, local growers
lobbied the authorities for their gris
and rosé wines to be legitimised, so in August 1961 the appellation laws
were re-written to include Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Whilst Gamay was
established within the vineyards of Reuilly during this period, it was
decided to exclude it from the décret.

In 1962, the local
grower syndicat created La Maîtrise des Echansons de Reuilly, whose objective continues
today in promoting the wines of the appellation. A decade earlier, during
Easter 1953, the inaugural Foire aux
Vins de Reuilly was held in the town - a tradition that is still
repeated every Pâques.

A further revision
in 1973 extended the appellation to include the villages of Cerbois,
Lury-sur-Arnon and (controversially) Preuilly, a commune that, logically,
should have been included as part of the Quincy appellation in the 1936 décret. During the 1930s there were around fifteen growers in
Preuilly and whilst there was some Pinot Noir planted in the commune,
Sauvignon was the dominant variety. There are various reasons cited for
the exclusion, one being that the vignerons
of Preuilly didn’t want to be part of this new initiative, clearly not
understanding the long term benefits. Another theory is that the growers
simply were not consulted or, at most, their advances were resisted by
those in Quincy and Brinay - or that the then mayor of Preuilly simply was
not aggressive enough in lobbying on the producers behalf. The net result
was that Preuilly remained a viticultural backwater for the following 37
years, forced to sell its wines as simple vin
de table, until the invitation to join the Reuilly appellation came
along.

AGRI-CHER,
A FAILED INITIATIVE

Established in 1992 and based in Bourges, Agri-Cher was a co-operative set
up for processing and selling cereals. As part of their expansion plans
they also began to diversify into poultry and wine. Several growers in
both Quincy and Reuilly, including the domaines of Jean-Paul Godinat,
Domaine Houssier, Dominique Picard and the Sicard family (who were heavily
involved with Agri-Cher by way of their position as local landowning
gentry) all signed up to the scheme where they supplied their grapes to
the co-operative. The grapes were then vinified in a purpose built cellar
erected mid-way between the communes of Preuilly and Quincy. The wines
were then sold and marketed by Agri-Cher; or at least that was the theory.
Although wine was only a nominal part of their business, the run of poor
vintages during the early 1990s did little to help their cause and the
co-operative failed in 1996/7 leaving those who had supplied it with
grapes a legacy of unsold (and unsaleable) wine.

CHAI DE REUILLY – A CO-OPERATION CELLAR

The origins of
the Chai de Reuilly date back to the early 1990s when advisors from the
European Unions Common Agricultural Policy, or Politique Agricole Commune, arrived in the Berry and started to
recommend that cereal farmers start to explore their options for crop
diversification, stating that there were government subsidies in place for
the planting of vines. Within a period of just two years, between 1990 and
1992, ten new vignerons appeared
in the appellation. The immediate issue then was that these new growers
were about to find themselves in the situation of having a crop but no
winery in which to process it.

Enter Claude Lafond, to many the saviour of the appellation. Claude was
already considering erecting a new cellar for his own production (until
now it had been made in a modest shed at the rear of the family house and
was too small and badly outdated). It was a perfect fit; Lafond had the
viticultural knowledge and the cereal growers had the cash. So in 1992
Claude instigated the formation of an association of eight like minded
growers and the Chai de Reuilly was conceived. The cellar was erected, in
the back yard of Lafond’s own property, in early 1993 and it received
its first crop the same year.

But this is no cooperative in the true sense of the
word. As a co-operation cellar its objective is to share resources (as
opposed to grapes) such as the services of a dedicated oenologue
(originally Emmanuel Roux and, since 2001, the very capable Stéphane
Vaillant) and equipment. What comes out of the cellar is their own wine
from their own grapes, with each producer as competitive as the next in
finding a home for their current vintage. The principle is so simple and
sensible that it’s amazing that no similar scheme in any other marginal
wine region has emanated from it. In Reuilly, the initiative has worked so
well that as additional shareholders came forward the facility had to be
expanded in 2004.

As of the 2009 harvest the Chai de Reuilly was processing 80 hectolitres
of wine, representing around 45% of the appellation. In 2009, however,
Claude Lafond ironically announced that he had decided to leave the
co-operative and erect his own cellar – right next door. His final
vintage was in 2010 and Claude, together with his daughter, Nathalie, look
to vinify the 2011 harvest in their new facility. As the largest producer
in the appellation, it does have a significant impact on the dynamics of
the Chai de Reuilly with production dropping as a result.
Denis Jamain
, who is currently second to Lafond in size within the appellation, will
become the most significant grower in the Chai, accounting for 35% of the
Chai’s output.

Growers
working in the Chai de Reuilly

Denis Jamain, Domaine de
Reuilly

Domaine Cordaillat

Pascal Desroches

Alain Mabillot

Bernard Aujard

Bénédicte et Christian Dyckerhoff

Jean-Pierre Ponroy

In
the vineyard

Situation and orientation

The vineyards of Reuilly sit on a series of small
hills which straddle both banks of the river Arnon. The only exception to
this is the commune of Preuilly which is located ten kilometres to the
west on the left bank of the river Cher. The parcels of vines range from
between 107 and 167 metres in altitude and are generally south, south-west
or south-east facing.

Lazenay
church through the vines

Communes

Permitted
communes
(in hectares - 2004)

Reuilly 101.5ha

Diou6.8ha

Lazenay19.7ha

Chéry2.8ha

Lury-sur-ArnonNil

Cerbois1.8ha

Preuilly 25.95ha

The appellation extends over seven villages: Chéry
is the northern-most commune and has a nominal amount of isolated parcels.
Reuilly and Diou are situated at the edge of the Indre département and combined they account for around 70% of the
appellation, whilst Lazenay,
Lury-sur-Arnon and Cerbois (which are all located on the right bank of the
Arnon) are in the département
of the Cher. The village of Preuilly has around 400 inhabitants and whilst
it has only one resident vigneron, it accounts for around 20% of the
appellation with growers planting more of the two Pinots here.

The hamlet of La Ferté (which is technically part of the commune of
Reuilly) has a number of vignernon-agriculteurs
although there is no real need for them to sell their wines much beyond
their own road-side cellars; the amount of traffic passing between
Issoudun and Vierzon appears to provide them with a sufficient enough
market.

Prior to the wines receiving the appellation they

were sold as Coteaux
de l’Arnon, the name applying equally for the white wines which also
carry the designation Sauvignon.

THE
LIEUX-DITS OF REUILLY

Running from north to south through the appellation:

Les
Sables - As
the name suggests, this is a parcel of sand and gravel on a plateau just
to the south of the village of Chéry. Domaine Cordaillat has vines here.

Le
Croteau Loup
– Also in Chéry, the name of this lieu-dit
was noted on an old bottle found in the wine museum in Reuilly. Crot au
Loup is a side street in the centre of the village, suggesting that the
vines were probably located in a growers back garden.

Mussay
– A tiny parcel located on the right bank of the Arnon, just south of
the commune of Lury-sur-Arnon, on the road to Cerbois.

Les
Thaumiers
– This parcel of clay and limestone soil is planted to Pinot Noir by
Domaine Mabillot and with Sauvignon and Pinot Gris by Claude Lafond.

Les Enaudes
– A south facing slope worked by Domaine Coraillat and Dyckerhoff.

Les
Bouchauds
– Located on the south facing slope above La Raie. The main protagonist
here is Domaine Bigonneau, whose cereal farm is just adjacent to the
vineyard.

La
Raie –
This parcel sits at the northern extremity of Reuilly commune. The vines
here are south facing on a soil of clay, sand and gravel. Claude Lafond
has six hectares of Sauvignon planted here, his largest single holding. It
is easily recognised by the sole wind turbine that sits towards the edge
of the vines.

Laleuf
– This small parcel takes its name from a smallholding just off the road
to Massay. The soils here are mainly clay and limestone.

Les
Chatillons
– Closer to Reuilly but also off the main road to Massay, this south
facing parcel has only relatively recently been replanted, although there
are numerous historic references to the site.
Denis Jamain
(who has Pinot Gris planted) is one of a number of growers here.

Le
Croz

Le
Croz –
Historically known as Le Crots, Claude Lafond has Sauvignon and Pinot Gris
planted in this parcel.

Les
Grandes Vignes
– The soil here is a sandy-silt and is best suited to Pinot Noir, which
is what Claude Lafond has planted here.

Le
Clos des Messieurs
– Also known as Le Clos des Seigneurs,
this parcel enjoys the reputation as being the best lieu-dit
in the appellation. It is located directly above the village of Reuilly
and enjoys attractive views over the Arnon valley. The soil is mostly
fractured limestone which is compacted with seashells. The origin of the
name is explained by the fact that it was once owned by one of the towns
bourgeois families. Although the parcel is not a monopole (Guy Malbête
has Sauvignon and Pinot Noir planted here), Claude Lafond claims ownership
of the name in producing a site specific Sauvignon cuvée from here.

Les Conges –
This parcel is situated next to Le Clos des Messieurs and enjoys a
south-west facing exposure. The soils, however, are less distinguished –
mainly gravel and sand - which explains why the likes of Jamain, Mabillot
and Dykerhoff, who all share this parcel, all have established Pinot Gris.

Le
Clos des Sablons
– This parcel sits on the western edge of Le Bois-Saint-Denis and is
worked by Guy Malbête. As the same suggests, the soils here are
particularly sandy.

Les Lignis – Also known as Les Lignys – is located at the western
edge of Reuilly on the top of a small plateau. Several growers share this
parcel including Valérie Renaudat, Pascal Desroches and, more recently,
Jacques Tatin who has planted Pinot Gris and Sauvignon here.

Les
Pierres Plates
– This gentle east facing slope is made up of pieces of fractured
limestone, which give Les Pierres Plates its name. The parcel was known to
have been planted in the 7th Century. Aesthetically, it lacks
the charm of Les Clos des Messieurs, but nonetheless this is at least
equal to it in terms of potential quality it’s Sauvignon. The parcel is
owned by
Denis Jamain
who also has four hectares of Pinot Noir planted here.

Les Landries – This parcel is worked by Claude Lafond

Les Ferrières – This south-facing slope is located between Les Lignis
and Les Pierres Plates towards the heart of the town. Guy Malbête has ten
hectares planted here.

Mont
Cocu –
Historically known as Montcocules, this parcel takes its name from a
nearby spring. The soils are shallow clay mixed with sand and limestone
which tends to ripen a little later that other adjacent plots. It is
planted mostly to Sauvignon with the main grower being Domaine Mabillot
who started to bottle a site specific example from the 2008 vintage.

Les
Coignons –
Old bottles in the museum in Reuilly note the alternative spelling of
‘Les Couagnons’. This south facing slope is planted mostly to
Sauvignon. Jacques Tatin has just established vines in ‘Le Bas des
Coignons’ and
Denis Jamain
has ten hectares of Sauvignon planted for his generic label.

Beauregard
– Referred to As ‘Beauregards’ by Pierre Galet in 1962, this is the
name of the largest parcel within the hamlet of La Ferté.

Les
Beaumonts
– Sandwiched between the D918 and the river, this is the other
significant parcel in La Ferté.

In the 1962 work Cépages et
Vignobles de France, Pierre Galet sites the following lieux-dits
although these names appear to have become lost over time:

BoissièresFiguierMarnaisVarennes

Within
the commune of Preuilly the notable lieux-dits
(from north to south) include:

Mirabeau
– This lieu-dit sits half in the commune of Quincy (and is therefore
planted to Sauvignon) and half in Preuilly, where Domaine Mardon have
established Pinot Noir.

Pointe
de la Motte
– Also planted to Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir by Jean-Michel Sorbe.

Terre
du Moulin
– Sorbe has all three varieties planted here.

Les
Ruesses –
Planted to Sauvignon Blanc by Jean-Michel Sorbe.

La
Commanderie
– The most renowned lieu-dit
in Preuilly. It’s a relatively large parcel with more complex soils,
allowing it accommodate all three varieties. The Sauvignons that are
produced here are said to be more in style with Quincy. Jean-Michel Sorbe
has plantings here with some of the Sauvignon predating the inclusion of
Preuilly within the appellation in 1973. More recently, Jean Tatin has
established 1.5 hectares of Sauvignon and Pinot Noir on land owned by his
maternal family.

Climate

Reuilly
enjoys a continental climate; cold winters with relatively hot, dry
summers. The average rainfall is, at 660mm a year, slightly less than in
Quincy with the majority falling between October and February. Prolonged
periods of precipitation between June and September are considered rare.
Localised hail can occur during the spring and summer although the valley
of the Cher appears to suffer more than the Arnon. Some growers in
Preuilly lost 30% of their crop to hail in 2009.

There is less risk of frost here too. The vines are noticeably planted on
slopes – unlike those in Quincy - with the cold air rolling down towards
the river and averting the danger. Certainly, the wind turbines, or

éoliennes, are less in evidence
here than in Quincy. The first, installed by Claude Lafond in 2001 in the lieu-dit
of ‘Le Raie’ and the second erected in a parcel of Sauvignon at Château
Gaillard in 2004, are capable, in theory, of protecting some 10-12
hectares from frost.

At the end of the growing season, Reuilly is almost always the first of
all the Loire’s Sauvignon appellations to harvest, usually around ten
days ahead of Sancerre. The reasons for this are two-fold. Firstly,
Sancerre (at an average of 310 metres) is at a much higher altitude than
Reuilly so is invariably cooler, and secondly, the amount of active lime
in the soil (see below) also accelerates the ripening process.

Reuilly is, therefore, a very reliable source of Sauvignon
since it is less prone to the vagaries of the late autumn weather.

Soil

Reuilly sits
at the south-western extremity of the Kimmeridgian Chain, a relatively
narrow band of hard Portlandian limestone which runs diagonally across
northern France for approximately 200 kilometres. The bench rises in the
Aube (the southern-most part of Champagne) and takes a south-west course
which encompasses the vineyards of Chablis. In the Centre it is known
colloquially as either the calcaire
du berry or la champagne
berrichone (so called because the Kimmeridgean marne is almost
identical in profile to that found in
Champagne
) and there can be little coincidence that the vineyards of the Coteaux de
Giennois, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Sancerre and Menetou-Salon all rest of this
cordon of rock. At Reuilly, a final outcrop of the Kimmeridgean appears on
the left bank of the river Arnon before it descends below the lower
Cretaceous.

The
village of Lazenay on the opposite bank of the river is at the
south-western limit of la champagne
berrichone. Relatively
uniform, the thin marly limestone contains banks of thousands of compacted
sea shells. The fossils and fragments of frost shattered rock helps aerate
the slopes and aid drainage. One fossil found in abundance is a small,
comma shaped oyster, Exogyra virgule
(virgule being the French for comma).

The vineyards
themselves sit on a series of low hills where the limestone is generally
exposed on the shallow slopes; these being generally considered as the
best sites. One such lieu-dit is
the east facing ‘Les Pierres Plates’. With a pH of 8.5, the 35% active
lime content accelerates the rate of maturity, often ripening Sauvignon
eight to ten days ahead of equivalently orientated sites, despite
receiving less sun than many other parcels in the appellation.

The summits tend to be covered with more alluvial soils made up of gravel
and sand which are more susceptible to drought and humidity. The wines
produced here - mostly Pinot Gris and Sauvignon - tend to be the less
durable. More sand and gravel can be found in sites closer to the river,
although these are less prone to drought. As one heads north of the
commune of Reuilly the limestone disappears altogether and at Chéry, the
northern-most limit of the appellation, the vines are located on an
alluvial plateau of sand and gravel.

Calcaire
lacustres du Berry

Given its location, Preuilly understandably shares the same calcaire lacustres du Berry (alluvial sand-clay soils) found on the
banks of the Cher at Quincy, although there is more red-orange clay here,
which is at least more suited to Pinot Noir than the rest of Quincy
appellation.

Such is the complexity of the soil types of Reuilly, a study produced by
the Chambres d’Agriculture du Cher
et de l’Indre in 2000 identified the following essential seven soil
profiles within the appellation.

Soil
profiles

Terroir calcaire sur Lacustre

This represents 2% of the viticultural
zone on the western extremity of the appellation although no
vineyards are established here.

Terroir argilo-calcaires sur Kimméridgien

The single largest profile represented in
38% of the viticultural zone. This profile is located on the left
bank of the Arnon, in particular around Reuilly and Diou. Mostly on
south and east facing slopes where there is a risk of soil erosion.
The pH is high and there is a risk of Chlorosis and also stress in
dry seasons.

Terroir argilo-calcaires marneux sur Kimméridgien

This represents 6% of the viticultural
zone and is found located on the left bank of the Arnon around
Reuilly and Diou mostly on south facing slopes. The profile
typically has limestone on the surface mixed with between 35% and
45% clay. These are deep soils which can retain too much moisture
and are highly alkaline meaning Chlorosis can pose a risk. There are
also issues of potential erosion on the slopes, but otherwise good
porosity.

Terroir argilo-graveleux sur calcaire

This represents 12% of the viticultural
zone. Mostly on the slopes, the exposure is either north or west.
Heterogeneous soils made up mostly of clay and sand with some gravel
and galets. Close to neutral pH. There is risk of erosion on the slopes,
but no problem with chlorosis.

Terroir sablo-graveleux

The second largest soil profile in the
appellation representing 26% of the viticultural zone, it is the
soil type most likely to be planted to vines, since three-quarters
of it is south facing. Surfaces are mostly sand mixed with gravel
and quartz and between 8-15% clay. The soils are generally healthy
for the vine, although can become waterlogged where the clay is
compacted.

Terroir complexe

This represents 8% of the vineyard zone
and is made up of deep clay based soils in shallow basins. Not
suitable for the cultivation of the vine.

Terroir limoneux du plateau de Reuilly

Represents 8% of the viticultural zone
and located on the plateau to the west of the town. The soils have
very few stones, but are instead made up of silt and clay or silt
and sand.

Soil
profile - Le Clos des Messieurs

Permitted
grape varieties

Sauvignon
BlancThe success of the variety within the Berry (the variety represents 70%
of the surface area of the vineyards of the Centre Region) is perhaps best explained by the grapes ability to express
itself on the specific soils of the region, combined with characteristic
aromatic profile derived from this continental climate.

There are around 15 clones available to the growers of Reuilly, although
two - 108 and 378 - are most widely recognised for quality production.
Others grown include 530, 159 and 107.

In 2008 the variety accounted for 103 of the 196 hectares planted in
Reuilly.

Pinot Noir

It is believed that Pinot Noir was first planted in Sancerre in the 15th
Century and was the sole variety grown there until the arrival of
phylloxera. Its appearance in Reuilly is much more recent, yet its distribution within the appellation has increased
significantly since the mid 1980s and 1990s - from 33 hectares in 1995 to
over 60 hectares in 2009.

There are nine recognised clones available; recommended though are 115,
114, 777 and 667, although one grower, Jean Tatin has elected to return to
massale selection for his recent
planting in ‘Le Commanderie’ in Preuilly.

The variety performs best on the deeper red clay soils of the appellation
and as such tends to enjoy the best sites. Those planted on sand tend to
produce simple wines for early drinking (which is why it is considered
unsuitable for planting in Quincy).

Pinot Gris

The current demand for gris, albeit mostly local, ensures that there is a complete
undersupply of the variety in the appellation. At 34 hectares, it accounts
for just 15% of all plantings in Reuilly despite a doubling in hectarage
since 1995. Known locally as Pinot Beurot (or Pinot Burot), it is best
suited to the poorer, free draining sand and gravel soils of the higher
parts of the appellation. The variety appears to perform better on
south-west facing sites.

The growers tend to have a love-hate relationship with the variety;
disliking is fickle and unreliable nature. Its small berries are prone to
shriveling during the latter stages of the ripening period, tricking
growers that they might harvest 65hl/ha but then end up with just
three-quarters of that. But they love it as a cash crop; the money is in
the bank by the following spring.

Due to its lower acidity it is normally the first
grape to be picked - especially in dry years – usually one week ahead of
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. With such high demand, there is also an
incentive therefore to pick as soon as possible in order to protect the
crop and to avoid any potential loss in yields.

Other
historic varieties

In addition to Sauvignon and Pinot Gris, documents
which date back as far as the 1860s refer to mixed plantings of Gamay,
(locally refered to as Lyonnais
and widely planted prior to AC in 1961, but excluded from the appellation
laws), Cot (Malbec), Genouillet, Durif, Gouais, Muscadelle, Meslier-Semillon,
Alicante-Bouschet, Grand-Noir de la Calmette and numerous hybrids,
including Noah which Jean Tatin confirmed was once planted in the lieu-dit
of ‘Le Commanderie’ in Preuilly.

Vine
density and pruning

Vine
density

In the 1850s vine density was between 8,000 and
12,000 vines per hectare (vph) and propagated by marcottage. Today the décret
for the appellation states that there should be a maximum of 1.45 metres
between the row and 1.20 metres maximum within the row; equating to a
minimum of 5,500 vines per hectare. Whilst actual densities of around
6,300 vph would be more common, the prime motivation for the grower is
deciding on the optimum spacing for the use of machinery, specifically the
mechanical harvester.

Trellising
and pruning

Today, the appellation allows for either Guyot
Simple (pruned to a maximum 10 ‘eyes’) or Guyot Double (12 ‘eyes’)
with the latter more likely to be used for the more vigorous Sauvignon.

Esca
- the phylloxera of the 21st Century

For several years now reports of Esca, a fungal
disease (which is also known to some as vine measles of vine cancer) found
throughout France have been increasing. Esca, like eutypoise, attacks the
roots and the wood blocking off the sap. Over a period of just a few
weeks, the vine stresses and dies. Historically, the best known treatment
was arsenic du soude (Sodium Arsenite), but the product was,
understandably, banned by the European Union in 2001 because of public
health concerns (it’s believed to be carcinogenic) and wider
environmental issues.

In Reuilly, growers began to notice the high incidence of Esca attacking
their Sauvignon vines within two years of the ban on Sodium Arsenic being
implemented. The average loss to the appellation to date has been around
5% (or around 0.7ha) per year, with the problem appearing to accelerate
when the season is dry, such as in 2003 (when it first caused concern) and
2005. Closely associated with water stress, the plants asphyxiate when
there is insufficient water available. Losses have been less evident in
the more humid years of 2007 and 2008.

Evidence indicates that it is the most vigorous and productive varieties
that suffer most with growers in Reuilly were loosing between 6-7% of
their Sauvignon vines a year during the 2006 and 2007 seasons. This high
rate now appears to have slowed as the majority of affected vines have
since been removed, but the net result is a loss of between 15-20% of
production due to unproductive vines. If left without treatment, entire
vineyards would be dead within a decade.

Needless to say, growers offer their own theories
when discussing the issue of Esca. Jean Tatin in neighbouring Quincy
believes there is an incompatibility between grafting Sauvignon onto 3309
rootstock. Others blame poor soil preparation or the nurserymen for
supplying them with substandard plants. ‘Is
it a co-incidence that the affected vines all seem to be between ten and
twenty years old…?’ There is a general consensus, however, that
once the vine moves into its third decade it appears less prone to attack.
One solution (apart from the obvious one of replanting) is to ensure that
pruning cuts are very clean. A couple of growers even state that certain
pruning methods make the vine more permeable to the fungus. Guyot Simple
might be easier to maintain and is less work, but some vignerons
are starting to adopt Guyot Double instead; the theory being that this
method allows the sap to rise faster than the esca can attack - although
for the moment it remains just a theory. Finally, where a vine might still
deliver a crop whilst being affected, the fruit is said to be
‘tainted’ and unusable.

The financial consequences for the growers are simple to comprehend; the
choice is to continue to work with an uneconomic crop (yields of 6hl/ha
have been recorded in affected plots) or face the alternative of grubbing
up and replanting (at a cost of between € 3 and € 5 per vine), then
waiting for three seasons to take off the first crop. To this end, local
and national government have not been slow in coming forward to offer
their support, with Région Centre pledging € 600,000 over four years
and the state also releasing a further € 1.5 million for scientific
research. But clearly, an environmentally compatible solution to combating
Esca needs to be found.

Thankfully, whilst Pinot Noir has been affected, it is to a much lesser
extent. To date, Pinot Gris appears to be immune.

Rootstocks

Fercal is the most widely used rootstock as it is
considered to be the most resistant to chlorosis (a problem associated
with soils high in calcium), and is capable of ensuring that the natural
vigour associated with Sauvignon is kept in check. The need to use Fercal
for Pinot Gris is negated since most plantings are on more sandy soils.
Here, either SO4 or 41B are the most popular choices. There are some local
nurseries, but most elect to buy their new vine stock from pépiniéristesin the Vendée
and Loire Atlantique.

Declared plantings

The superficie
classée (the total amount of land that qualifies for the right to the
appellation) is 600 hectares meaning that some 400ha is not currently
planted. Looking at the statistics below, the figure for 1970 looks low,
but it has to be considered that this was prior to the 1973 boundary
revision which bought the communes of Preuilly, Cerbois and Lury-sur-Arnon
into the appellation. The 19th Century figures are added for
historical interest. Anarpent,
incidentally, is a pre-metricFrench unit of
area based on the Romanactus and is roughly
equal to one acre (0.404ha). It is still in common usage today inQuebecas
well as several areas of the United States that were once part ofFrench controlled Louisiana.

Declared
Plantings

2

009
– 202ha

2008 – 197ha

2007 – 185ha

2006 – 188ha

2005 – 183ha

2004 – 175ha

2003 – 155ha

2002 – 157ha

2001 – 146ha

2000 – 157ha

1999 – 139ha

1997 – 130ha

1996 – 127ha

1995 – 130ha

1994 – 124ha

1993 – 114ha

1992 – 105ha

1990 – 130ha

1986 – 61ha

1985 – 52ha

1983 – 53ha

1977 – 48ha

1970 – 38ha

1920 – 322ha

1887 – 100ha

1882 – 340ha

1847 – 294ha

1812 – 540 arpents

1685 – 424 arpents

In
the CellarVinification should, in theory, be conducted within
the Reuilly appellation but exceptions appear to be tolerated by the
authorities. Both Jean-Charles Borgnat and Jacques Tatin vinify their
Reuilly at the Cave Romane within the Quincy appellation whilst Gérard
Bigonneau has established a central cellar on his cereal farm just outside
Brinay for processing both Quincy and Reuilly.

Around half of the production of the appellation is vinifed white. As a
point of reference, Sauvignon accounted for just 600 hectlitres a year in
the early 1970s.

Recently
declared production

2009
– 10,374hl (5,350hl blanc)

2008 – 8,799hl (4,626hl blanc)

2007 – 8,869hl (4,650hl blanc)

2006 – 8,954hl (4,528hl blanc)

2005 – 11,349hl (5,397hl blanc)

2004 – 11,924hl (5,931hl blanc)

2003 – 6,195hl (3,443hl blanc)

2002 – 8,163hl (4,121hl blanc)

2001 – 9,035hl (4,871hl blanc)

2000 – 8,207hl

1997 – 6,269hl (3,775hl blanc)

1996 – 6,657hl (3,696hl blanc)

1995 – 6,880hl (4,125hl blanc)

1994 – 5,000hl

1993 – 4,385hl

1992 – 5,774hl

1991 – 519hl

1990 – 3,570hl (896hl blanc)

Wine
styles

REUILLY BLANC

The generally formulaic approach to fermenting and ageing Sauvignon Blanc
is little different in Reuilly to anywhere else in the world. On the whole
grapes arrive at the cellar already de-stemmed (a function of mechanical
harvesting) and will have already been sprayed with some preserving dry
ice in the vineyard. The grapes are pressed, normally within two hours of
picking, and the must is allowed to settle at around 6-7° Centigrade.

In order to qualify for the appellation, the potential alcohol of the
Sauvignon must needs to achieve 10.5%, although the last time
chaptalisation was required to any real degree was in 2004. Fermentation
is conducted using selected yeasts, of which there are around a dozen
different commercial strains to choose from. The most popular in the Chai
de Reuilly is a Burgundian strain known as ‘Elegance’. Only a couple
of growers within the appellation are prepared to rely on indigenous
yeasts for their ferments; one is
Denis Jamain
for his ‘Les Pierres Plates’ cuvée. After fermentation is complete
the wines are racked and generally allowed to rest on their fine lees for
around five months before bottling.

REUILLY ‘GRIS’

Claude Lafond told me that he likes to think of his gris
as being ‘vinous’ and should be appreciated in the same way as a
normal dry white wine. It should also not be confused with Reuilly Rosé
(see below), since gris is obliged to be produced solely from Pinot Gris and needs to
achieve a minimum of 10% potential alcohol for the right to the
appellation. The wine is vinified with the colour in mind (those who taste
and grant the right to sell under the appellation are apparently obsessed
with the depth and colour), ensuring that it is neither too deep nor
overtly pink. Pressurage direct
is the most widely adopted method, although maceration (normally over a 24
hour period - to extract more colour and flavour) is also permitted.
Fermentation is conducted using a single commercially accepted yeast
strain. Bottling tends to happen as soon as the wine is ready, partly
because of the demand for the wines to be available by the time the local
white asparagus appears (it’s a local tradition to serve them together
at table) and partly due to the economics of supply and demand; most
growers are sold out of the current vintage by the end of summer.

REUILLY ROSÉ

Legislation allows for up to 15% of Pinot Noir to be added into Pinot Gris
during vinification, but then this should
be referred to on the label as Rosé rather than Gris
(although this rule is often not adhered to). The decision to do this
might depend on how productive a year it has been - given the current
pressure on Pinot Gris - and if the grower might be sitting on excess
stocks (of the harder to sell) Reuilly Rouge. Some might elect to add some
Pinot Noir juice to their Pinot Gris simply to help salmonée
the wine, whilst others produce a Reuilly Rosé as a by-product of a saignée when, in weaker vintages, they attempt to concentrate the
must of their red wines.

Reuilly Rosé made exclusively from Pinot Noir is rare - I only came
across one such example during my research - at Domaine Beurdin in
Preuilly – although Jean-Michel Sorbe, who was also based in Preuilly,
apparently did the same. Maceration and saignée are both permitted, but Jean-Louis Beurdin prefers pressurage
direct, even if the logic to this is that this is how his grandfather
did it.

REUILLY ROUGE

Red musts need to achieve a minimum 10% potential alcohol. As with the
Sauvignon and Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir is mostly machine harvested although
an increasing number of growers are moving to hand harvesting (or at least
the more quality conscious ones are now passing through their vines
immediately before harvest to eliminate grapes that shouldn’t be
picked). Other producers argue that the key to quality of the resulting
wine is not in the ability to either hand or machine harvest, but rather
in the soil type and yield. Invariably then, the grapes arrive at the
cellar de-stemmed and are immediately crushed and transferred to tank
where they are inoculated with cultured yeasts (no single grower in the
appellation appears to depend on natural yeasts for their red wines).

A handful of growers are experimenting with barrel ageing part of their
Pinot Noir production, with generally very mixed results (Reuilly is not
Burgundy, even if the climate and soils are very similar). The tank aged
wines are racked and allowed to rest on their lees for around six months
before bottling. For the most part, these are light, easy drinking reds
that are destined for consumption during the summer months following the
harvest.

Recent
Vintages

The
harvest in Reuilly is traditionally between 20th September and
15th October. The earliest being in 2003 when picking commenced
on the 19th August. These notes are based on my various post-harvest visits to see
Denis Jamain
, but have been embellished by reports issued by the Bureau
Interprofessionnel des VinsduCentre (BIVC).

2010

The harvest was very good despite the fact picking
started 10 to 12 days later than the two preceding years; around September
21st versus September 11th in 2009.The ban
de vendange for Pinot Gris was on the 20th and the 22nd
for both Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. The
yield was also plentiful – 55hl/ha for Sauvignon, 63hl/ha for Pinot Gris
and 48hl/ha for Pinot Noir – as the flowering was consistent and the
season was relatively easy with no issues of rot or mildew. There was rain
in early September which helped swell the grapes, but this was balanced by
sunny, dry conditions prior and during the harvest. The
acidity content was low in comparison to 2009 and much lower than in 2008,
so for this reason the growers decided to harvest as quickly as they could
(ensuring that alcohol levels remained low too), especially in light of
the rain that was predicted to arrive in the region on the 5th
October. Although it did rain for three days the crop was already in the
cellar.

2009

August and
September’s ideal weather and a limited yield make 2009 an exceptional
vintage. The principal vegetative stages (budburst, flowering and véraison) occurred up to 2 days earlier than the average of the
last fifteen years.

Following a relatively cold and dry winter, April began with three weeks
of temperatures 3°C higher than the norm although there was plenty of
rain. May was also warm. June and July were normal for the season while
higher than usual temperatures appeared again in mid-August.

While not excessive, precipitation often arrived in the form of
thunderstorms giving between 20 mm and 30 mm of rain. Unfortunately, the
village of Preuilly was a victim of one of the storms and some growers
here lost 30% of their crop. The regular watering maintained the humidity
of the soil at a sufficient level until véraison.
Mildew was a constant threat and remained a concern throughout the season.
The dry months of August and September preserved the excellent sanitary
state of the crop.

Sugar levels progressed very rapidly and attained particularly high
levels; one must go back to the famous 1947 vintage to find such high
concentrations thorough the entire crop. Acidity levels remained in place
primarily thanks to cool nights during the first half of September and the
dry period. Only a few cuvées picked at the very end of the harvest
lacked a little acidity. Overall, the yields were among the lowest seen in
recent years.

Denis Jamain was the first in the
appellation to start harvesting – in ‘Les Pierres Plates’ on the 11th
September (although the ban de vendange was on the 14th in Reuilly). The harvest
extended over three weeks with the long, slow ripening benefical for the
fruit. In Reuilly, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc were harvested at the
same time.
Denis Jamain
commented that these were the best juices he had seen in the past decade,
although his yields were down (47hl/ha for both the reds and white wines
and 60hl/ha for Pinot Gris) due to issues during flowering. There was
certainly no need to chaptalise this vintage with wines achieving between
12.5% and 13.0% naturally. The Sauvignons in Reuilly seem very aromatic
this vintage as opposed to those in Quincy which appear a little more
restrained than in 2008.

2008This is one
of the latest vintages of the last ten years. The start of the growing
season was tough, with plenty of rain and the threat of disease early on.
May was warm, but then temperatures descended to lower than is usual for
the period.
In addition, dates of the vine’s principal vegetative phases were
similar to the 1980s with budburst around the 25th April
followed by regular and uninterrupted growth, but flowering was long and
irregular. Véraison occurred
between 20th and 25th August. Thanks to inspection
and control methods mildew, while virulent, was bought under control.
September was hot and dry but the cooler nights prevented excessive
degradation of malic acid and permitted a favourable evolution of aromas
in the Sauvignon. Harvesting began first in Reuilly on the 22nd
September (15 days later than in 2007) due to higher levels of acidity. It
was a small crop overall with irregular sized berries and bunches due to
the problems at flowering.

2007

After an
early budburst, the risk of frost became a serious concern. This was
followed by an exceptionally warm spring which prompted early flowering.
Work in the vineyard needed to be performed quickly due to the rapid
growth of the vines which were by this point already three weeks ahead of
normal by the beginning of June. But the summer months were cool and rainy
and up to the end of August worried winemakers surveyed their vineyards.
The threat of cryptogamic diseases such as mildew and rot required total
vigilance. Fortunately, during the all-important late summer period,
nature presented the growers with 29 consecutively dry days, starting on
the 24th August with a cold north wind which helped to dry out
both the soil and vines. This was followed by warmer days and cool nights.

In these conditions,
sugar production was accelerated and the degradation of acids was slowed
(although this is still seen as a vintage with high levels of malic acid).
The assimilation of water by the berries having been well-regulated by the
drying of the air and the soil, the phenomenon of concentration appeared
in certain parcels. This became widespread in the red grapes in the
beginning of September which intensified colour and quality of tannins.
The aromas of the white grapes were slowly developed during the ripening
stage which was long despite the precocity of the year.

The
harvest in Reuilly ran from the 9th to the 24th
September, but the parcels were picked as the grapes became ready over the
span of a month. Unusually, Pinot Noir was picked before Sauvignon. This
particularly long period reflects the flowering periods which were spread
out until maturity and the wisdom of the winemakers who patiently waited
for the optimum moment to harvest.
Denis Jamain
stated that by the time of harvest there was absolutely no sign of the rot
that blighted other local Sauvignon
appellations.

2006

This was a
hot and dry year marked by large climatic variations. After a dry winter
the vine's vegetative cycle began with welcome humidity. March and May
were particularly wet. This created water reserves in the surface soil
levels that were to prove very useful. June and July were very hot and dry
compared to the seasonal average (+2°C for June, +5°C for July). These
conditions suited vines where the growth was already two weeks earlier
than normal.

In August, temperatures were -3°C lower than usual, whilst September -
2.5°C above the seasonal average - brought two weeks of very hot
temperatures and no rain. The second half of the month was mild with a few
light scattered showers. By the time of harvest the grapes were in
excellent condition, with both sugar and potential alcohol levels rising
quickly towards the 14th September after which they assumed a
normal rhythm. Acidity and pH levels remained good thanks to the stability
of the tartaric acid throughout the maturation. Cloudy skies beginning in
mid-September permitted the preservation of aromatic intensity and
freshness.

The grapes were harvested in record time. Picking was concentrated during
the optimum period of 10-12 days; any sooner and the grapes would have
been insufficiently ripe and later they would have begun deteriorating.
The ban de vendanges for Reuilly
was the 10th September, with Quincy starting to harvest on the
13th September. Unusually, the harvest in Reuilly started with
Sauvignon this year, rather than Pinot Gris.

2005An extraordinary
vintage. Generally warm and dry, the season was punctuated by alternating
hot and cool periods. The very hot temperatures encouraged a rapid
development of the vegetative cycle through the end of July. A cool but
dry August (there was only 15mm of rain in Reuilly) allowed the vines to
recover and begin the maturation phase. The low amount of precipitation,
regular and moderate, provoked an early stop of the vegetative growth.

The healthy
condition of the vines combined with particularly favorable weather
conditions. The moderate temperatures had a very positive affect. Acidity
was balanced and remained stable to the end of the harvest. Winemakers
approached the harvest confident in the knowledge that the dry soil and
absence of a rot permitted them to pick each parcel at the moment of
optimum ripeness.

The harvest began in fair weather. Unusually, the first grapes to be
picked in the Berry were in Sancerre - on the 7th September.
Reuilly started with Sauvignon Blanc, rather than Pinot Gris, on the 9th
September (with Quincy a day later) and was completed by the 21st
of the month. After 2003, this was the earliest ever recorded harvest in
Reuilly. This was the vintage of the decade to date and the best year
since 1996.

2004After the
unusual heat wave of 2003, there was a return to aromatic and fresh wines
in 2004. The vine growth cycle was relatively about 8 days late when
compared to the last 20 years. Night time temperatures were normal but
daytime figures were often below average which helps to explain the slow
vegetative cycle.

The season began calmly and was relatively dry with a virtual lack of vine
diseases. On the 7th July there was a thunderstorm, the hail
not only damaging the fruit but also affecting the baguettes which inevitably had a detrimental effect on the following
year’s yields. Due to the storms the conditions became more humid with
mildew and oidium also becoming a threat and requiring very close
monitoring.

The first half of September was dry and warm with temperatures of 25° to
30°C which accelerated grape development and consolidated the problems
caused by the July rains. Then sugar accumulation returned to its usual
pattern and the reduction of acidity slowed. Conscious of the importance
of the harvest date and despite the advancement of the season, winemakers
wisely exercised patience and waited for full maturity. By offsetting the
risk of losing part of the harvest, they succeeded in optimizing the
quality of the grapes. Harvesting began on the 20th September
in Reuilly. In addition, the vast majority of grapes were picked and
brought in under the best conditions and lower acidity toward the end of
the season compensated for some of the higher levels experienced at the
beginning.

Vital
for quality in 2004 was the elimination of surplus grapes during the
growing season. This was a vintage that has required a great deal of
attention throughout the year, both in the vineyard and in the cellar.

2003Remembered as a
very hot year and the earliest harvest since 1893. During the vines
vegetative cycle from the 1st April to the 30th
September, the average temperature was more than 2.5°C above normal. For
long periods (the second half of April, all of June, between the 10th
and 25th July and the first half of August), temperatures were
between 4°C to 10°C above the seasonal average.

These high temperatures had a negative influence on both quality and
quantity. Parcels of young vines suffered burned leaves and grapes
resulting in significant losses. Yet 2003 was not a year of excessive
drought: timely rain between the 30th June and the 4th
July and again on the 17th August provided sufficient moisture.
The typical September weather pattern began in late August: cool nights,
morning dew and warm afternoons, but by this time the crop was already in
the cellar. Sugar levels continued to climb right through the harvest
achieving levels of concentrations rarely seen before, but acid levels
tumbled leaving flabby, short lived wines.

Reuilly,
acknowledged as the hottest place in France this season, started the
harvest on the 19th August. Quincy began in the first days of
September. This was generally a harvest to avoid.

2002Spring frosts
threatened but in the end caused little damage. Flowering was extremely
fast due to a hot spell in June which resulted in some issues of flower
abortion. High temperatures in mid-August ensured véraison
was completed homogenously and the harvest started in mid-September in
cool but dry conditions. Overall, this is a very successful vintage.

2001The mild winter
favoured an early budburst. The flowering was between the 10th
and the 25th June. The vegetative season was more humid than in
recent years with the threat of mildew requiring constant vigilance. The
climate of 2001 divided the maturation into two phases. September's cool
temperatures slowed the ripening and acidity levels remained high which
prompted those brave enough to make the decision to delay the date of
harvest by about ten days in order to obtain good maturity. The first
couple of weeks of October brought warm weather (day and night) which
rapidly accelerated the ripening of the grapes, ensuring a rise in sugar
levels, the balancing of acids and refining of Sauvignon aromas. Returning
to more normal harvest dates, the first grapes were harvested in Reuilly
and Quincy around the 25th September. In Reuilly, Pinot Noir
was harvested before Sauvignon and required strict sorting, both in the
vineyards and in the cellar, in order to eliminate unripe or otherwise
inferior grapes. The harvest of white grapes started soon after and many
winemakers, encouraged by the continuing fair weather, chose to wait as
long as possible before harvesting – some delaying until the 15th
October. They were well rewarded; the last grapes harvested being in good
condition.

2000The start of
the growing season began around April 15th - a little more
precocious than in an average year. An unusually hot period in May and
June speeded up the vine growth and in the middle of June the flowering
was practically finished. A cool and humid July slowed the evolution,
obliging wine growers to pay careful attention to the state of the
foliage. From the month of August the climate was favourable, with the
maturation taking place slowly. The last three weeks of the month were
excellent, ensuring a good important accumulation of sugars and well
balanced acidity. The weather remained mild which allowed the wine growers
to harvest parcels as they ripened. The harvest started around September
13th for the Pinot Gris varieties and around 18th
September for the earliest Sauvignon.

1999A good
season throughout. The main vegetative steps began early with budding
commencing between the 6th and 10th April. Flowering
occurred between the 10th and 20th of June. Summer
storms obliged wine growers to be very vigilant concerning the strong
pressures of mildew. From the end of August to the middle of September
warm days and nights speeded up the maturation process and developed very
healthy grapes. The official harvest date for Reuilly was the 13th
September for the picking of the Pinot Gris.

1998A return to a
very classical vintage. After a normal berry setting, hot weather in
August scorched some grapes. Rain in September gave rise to fears of rot
but the good health and surveillance of the vines permitted harvest of
good quality.

1997March was very
warm and the accelerated ripening posed potential problems with the risk
of frost in April. Cold weather in June caused problems with flowering.
Storms in August meant there were threats of disease. Finally, the grape
harvest took place in good conditions.

1996The exceptional
weather conditions from spring to autumn permitted a harvest that was
exceptionally healthy. This is generally considered the best vintage in
Reuilly since 1990.

1995A classic if
undistinguished vintage.

1994A year badly
affected with frost.

1993A rainy
September and cool temperatures delayed the maturation. Nevertheless the
good health of the grapes produced a very classical vintage.

1992This year was
marked by rain at harvest.

1991Like everywhere
in the Loire, the vineyards of Quincy and Reuilly suffered the damages of
a particularly devastating spring frost. The harvest was small but
heterogeneous.

1990An exceptional
vintage. The weather conditions were excellent from the blossoming to the
grape harvests. The grapes were early-fruiting and the maturity was
perfect.