Market Tote Trio in Tula Pink's Elizabeth: FreeSpirit Fabrics

Editor: Liz Johnson

Monday, 30 March 2015 1:00

eye-catch・ing, adjective: immediately appealing or noticeable. Synonyms: a trio of beautiful totes in the incredible Elizabeth collection by Tula Pink for FreeSpirit Fabrics. Elizabeth is a new set of prints so intricate and lovely, "eye-catching" is just the beginning. This is what we call a statement bag. It's specifically designed to make the best use of the chosen fabric's color and motif. Each bag blends three prints to create the exterior and lining. Our set is particularly striking because we made three, but one bag on its own will draw attention like no other. While shooting our sample photographs, people literally stopped us on the street to ask about them!

Here at Sew4Home, we have always been big fans of Tula Pink fabric. If you browse through her own site, we know you'll also be captivated by what she calls, "... her dark sense of humor, a flair for hiding animals in the strangest of places (artistically, not literally) and her boldly unique use of color and pattern."

Tula has also described herself as coming from the "more is more" school of design, where there is never enough space and always room for that one last thing. We love Tula for bringing a sophisticated whimsy into the world of designer fabric!

Our thanks to Tula Pink, FreeSpirit, and Coats for providing us with a great selection of the Elizabeth collection. We created these stunning bags as well as an amazing apron coming up next week.

Sewing Tools You Need

Edge Guide foot (optional, but it made our topstitching easier and more accurate)

Fabric and Other Supplies

1¼ yards of 44"+ wide quilting weight cotton for the bag bottom exterior, exterior front and back pockets, and the handles NOTE: The yardage above allows for fussy cutting; if your fabric does not require a precise fussy cut, you can get by with one yard. If you are new to fussy cutting, check out our tutorial.

Getting Started

Download and print out ONE copy of each of the TWO pattern sheets for the pocket: Pocket Bottom Pattern and Pocket Top PatternIMPORTANT: Each pattern sheet is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print each PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale.

Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. Butt together the two pieces (do not overlap) following the guide arrows. Tape together to create the full pocket pattern.

From the fabric for the bag bottom exterior, exterior front and back pockets, and the handles, cut the following:Using the pattern (which is set up to cut on the fold), fussy cut FOUR pocket pieces, centering to capture as many main motifs as possible.TWO 6½" high x 18" wide rectangles for the bottom exterior bagTWO 3½" x 28" strips for the handles

From the fabric for the bag upper exterior, facing, and the lining pocket, cut the following: TWO 12½" high x 18" wide rectangles for the upper exterior bagONE 13" high x 11" wide rectangle for the lining pocket

From the fabric for the lining, cut TWO 16" high x 18" wide rectangles.

From the fusible fleece, cut the following:Using the pocket pattern, first trim along the dotted seam lines to create a pattern that is ½" smaller all around (to keep the batting out of the pocket seams), then cut TWO pocket pieces.TWO 16" x 18" rectangles for the main body panels

From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:TWO 1¼" x 27" strips for the handlesTWO 1½" x 18" strips for the fold-over facing

The piping will be cut to fit during the construction steps below.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Create the front and back exterior panels

Find the two exterior top and the two exterior bottom panels.

Pin a bottom panel to a top panel along one 18" edge. If your fabric is directional, make sure you are pinning the bottom raw edge of the top panel to the top raw edge of the bottom panel.

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch together.

Press the seam allowance down towards the bottom panel.

Flip each sewn panel so it is facing wrong side up.

Find the two fusible fleece panels. Place one panel against each fabric panel. The sides and bottom edges of the fleece and fabric should be flush, but the top edge of the fleece should sit 2" down from the top raw edge of the fabric.

Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the fleece panels in place.

Set aside the exterior panels.

Create and place the exterior pockets

Find the four fabric pocket pieces, the two fleece pocket pieces, and the piping.

Pin a length of piping to the top curved edge of each pocket piece on the right side. The inside edge of the piping should be ½" in from the raw edge of the fabric to accommodate a ½" seam, which means the raw edges of the piping's insertion tape are ¼" from the raw edge of the fabric. NOTE: We worked with the piping as a continuous length, cutting it flush to the sides of the pocket when fully pinned in place.

Center a fleece pocket piece on the wrong side of the two remaining un-piped pocket pieces. There should be ½" of fabric showing beyond the fleece on all sides. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.

Place each fused pocket piece right sides together with a piped pocket piece. Pin along the top and bottom edges. The sides remain open.

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along the top and bottom of each pair. Along the top, if the piping was placed accurately as shown above, a ½" seam allowance should run right along the inside edge of the piping. If needed, adjust the foot and/or the needle position to keep your seam as close to the piping and as even as possible. We again used our Janome Zipper foot.

Turn each sewn pocket right side out through the open sides. Press flat, rolling out the piping into place as needed.

Find the exact center of each pocket and draw a vertical guide line at this point, using a fabric pen or pencil. We used the pattern piece to insure our center mark was correct. NOTE: Remember, you are working on the right side of the fabric, make sure you use a fabric pen or pencil that will easily wipe away or vanish with exposure to the air.

Make two additional parallel vertical lines; one should be 4" in from the left raw edge of the pocket and one should be 4" in from the right raw edge of the pocket. Remember to draw these three vertical guideline on the front of both pockets.NOTE: After drawing in our guidelines, we added a Sew4Home label, placing it slight off-center between the middle and right guidelines and approximately 1" up from the bottom finished edge of the pocket. We stitched it in place with contrasting thread to match each tote.

Place each main exterior panel right side up on your work surface. Place a pocket right side up on each panel. The sides of the pockets should be flush with the sides of the main panels. The bottom finished edge of each pocket should be 2¼" up from bottom raw edge of each main panel. Pin the pocket in place along the drawn guidelines.

Lengthen your stitch.

Stitch along each drawn guideline.

Edgestitch across the bottom of the pocket.

We also machine basted the sides of each pocket in place.

Top facing and exterior bag assembly

Along the top of each main panel, fold back the raw edge ½" and press. We used our Clover Hot Hemmer.

Fold an additional 1½" and press again.

Unfold so the crease lines are visible.

Find the two 1½ ” x 18” strips of interfacing. Place one strip along the top of each panel so one 18" edge of the interfacing strip is tucked up against the first crease line of the fabric.

Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse each strip in place.

Place the front and back main panels right sides together, sandwiching the pockets between the layers. The edges of the panels should be flush on all four sides. Be extra careful to align the top creases and the side edges of the pockets. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.

Our bag is designed to have 3" sides and base. To create this width, we figured our corners at 1½".

Lining

Find the 13" x 11" lining pocket. Fold it in half, right sides together, so it is now 6½" x 11"

Pin along both sides and across the bottom, leaving a 4" opening along the bottom for turning.

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock your seam at either side of the 4" opening.

Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances.

Turn right side out through the bottom opening. Use a long, blunt end tool, such as a knitting needle or chopstick, to gently push out the corners so they are nice and sharp.

Press the pocket flat, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.

Find one of the two lining panels. Place it right side up on your work surface.

Place the pocket on the panel so it sits 3" down from the upper raw edge of the panel and 4" in from each raw side edge. Pin in place.

Edgestitch the pocket along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. This edgestitching secures the pocket in place and closes the original opening used for turning. We used a lengthened stitch.

Similarly to how you created division lines for the exterior pockets, measure to find the center of the lining pocket and draw a vertical guideline at this point.

Stitch along the drawn line.

Place the two lining panels right sides together, sandwiching the pocket between the layers. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners.

Following the same steps as above, measure for 3" boxed corners, cutting out 1½" squares from each corner.

Flatten and stitch, just as you did above.

Leave the lining wrong side out.

Slip the lining inside the main bag so the two bags are now wrong sides together. Align all the seams and the bottom corners. The top raw edge of the lining should align with the crease line of the fold-over facing of the exterior.

Fold the facing down into position over the raw edge of the lining. Pin in place around the inside of the tote.

Edgestitch the bottom folded edge of the facing all around. We used our Janome Edge Guide foot for a super accurate seam. Also, if your machine has a free arm, now is a good time to use it.

Create and place the handles

Find the two 3½" x 28" fabric strips and the two 1¼" x 27" strips of interfacing.

Press back each 28" raw edge of each strip ½". Then press in each end ½". We used our Clover Hot Hemmer again.

Press each strip in half lengthwise, aligning the folded edges on all three sides. Press to set a center crease.

Open up each strip so its crease line is visible. Align the interfacing strip with the center crease line; the opposite edge of the interfacing should be tucked under the ½" folded edge of the fabric strip. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place on each handle.

Refold each strip along the original crease line so the folded edges align. Press well.

Find the center of each handle, along the folded edges. Place a pin at this center point. Measure 4½" to the left of center and place a second pin. Measure 4½" to the right of center and place a third pin. Remove the center pin.

Edgestitch across one end, pivot, then continue edgestitching up to and the past the first pin by approximately ½".

Lock the stitch. Then repeat to edgestitch the opposite end of the handle.

Replace the original marking pins if necessary.

Fold the handle in half between the marking pins and pin this center section to secure.

Edgestitch from pin to pin through all the layers to secure the fold. You've created an easy-carry top to the handle. For the best finish, use a locking stitch at the beginning and end of the seam if possible or leave the thread tails long and knot to secure.

Place a handle on each side of the bag. The bottom edge of each end of the handle should sit 2½" down from the top of the bag and 3½" in from the side seam. Pin the ends in place. Check to make sure there are no twists in the handle loop and that the seam of the center fold of the handle is facing in towards the bag lining (this means the seams of the two handles will face each other when held together).

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Comments (51)

Stacy said:

Thank you! Just made my first tote and will be making more! I used the Tula Eden line. One note - in the Top Facing, Step 2 directions I believe it should say fold an additional 1.5". Also thank you for introducing me to the edge foot, it is awesome :)

I just purchased the Slow and Steady bundle of fat quarters by Tula Pink and was wondering if you could make this bag using fat quarters? If so any information you can give me would be a big help. I absolutely love this bag and can’t wait to sew it. Thank you.

@Belinda - As you can see by the yardage amounts listed above, this would be a challenge to make with only fat quarters. There are several portions that require quite a bit more fabric than an 18" x 22" fat quarter. And, although you can sometimes seam together pieces to create a larger piece, that can be a bit of a gamble given the fact that you don't always get more than one piece of any design in a bundle. You might be better off using your beautiful Slow and Steady bundle for another project.

@Gisela - Thank you for reminding folks about the Save to PDF icon at the top of this (and all) our articles! That will give you the entire article. To get the patterns, you still must click on the links within the Getting Started section, which are working without an issue on our end.

@Pattie - As mentioned above, we have tested everything possible on our end on various browsers and everything is delivering correctly from the server. Since we can't replicate the problem, we would need some additional information from you to try to troubleshoot further. Please send an email to info@sew4home.com with some details about what steps you are currently taking to download the patterns and/or the full PDF as well as what browser you are using as well as what type of computer and operating system.

@veerle - So sorry you're having trouble; the hyper links are indeed there for both the pocket pattern pieces. We've tested in several different browsers to insure everything is delivering correctly from the server, and all testing continues to work well. You'll find the links in the first sentence within the Getting Started section. If you still have trouble, please contact us via info@sew4home.com and we'll try to troubleshoot further.

I finally purchased the Tula Pink fabric and want to get started. One problem i'm having is when I print the pocket patterns and measure the confirm arrows I can't get it to measure the 7 inches. I'm printing at 100% like indicated. It measures 6 3/4 inches. Maybe you can tell me the total size of the pocket width and legth. I don't want to cut my precious fabric and it be too small.

@Linda Marie - So glad to hear you will be making this beautiful tote! We did double check the pattern and it is delivering correctly from the server. You mentioned you are printing at 100% - that's the #1 setting. Also make sure the pattern is printing landscape rather than portrait (horizontal rather than vertical). And, make sure you are measuring the arrow from tip to tip. The width of each pattern is 9-1/8". The height of the pocket top (at the highest point along the side) is 5-1/2", The height of the pocket bottom is 4-5/8". Since everything is delivering correctly from out end, we're unable to troubleshoot what your exact problem might be, but do check all your printer settings again just to be sure. Let us know how your bag turns out!

I LOVE this site! Been telling many people about It! Question on the handles...I'm not sure I topstitched them correctly, as when I make the Xbox i am stitching over the toast itching and it's not a good clean look. Help!

@ Bmitu - Thank you for the love -- and for sharing our site with your friends!! I'm not sure I understand your question 100% - but here goes. You do edgestitch the strap first, which means you overstitch at the end to create the X box. If you stitch directly on top of the existing topstitching, it should look fine - that's exactly what we did and what the final picture above is showing.

I love this tote pattern. I made three in mix/match fabric prints of yellow/gray/black/white. I think they turned out really nice. When I make them again (I bought Some Tula Pink fabric and Sharon Holland prints), I think I will change the exterior pockets [divide the pocket in half, then divide only one of the halves in half] and add a magnet at the center to help close the top of the bag.

My sewing resolution is to organize my sewing business physically, financially, and ideologically to help increase my product sales. Therefore, my goals for this year are: 1) organize my room (and keep it organized) so that supplies/fabrics are grouped together and easliy found, 2) sew each week day (when I sub, sew a minimum 2 hours/when not subbing, sew a minimum 6 hours), 3) learn how to market, and then market my goods on my website, on Etsy, and locally.

@ Jacky Limer - Sorry you are feeling confused. Sometimes it can help to read all the way through any instructions a couple times, kind of "making the project in your head" prior to starting. Our patterns always print out on standard 8.5" x 11" sheets of paper, so sometimes, larger patterns need to be taped together to create the full pattern. You can see in the picture what the full pattern should look like. The main exterior panels are made up of two pieces: a top exterior piece and a bottom exterior piece. Again, the pictures of this going together may help yøu visualize.

I'm having a problem with getting a 12 1/2 " high x 18" wide upper bag as well as a 13" x 11" wide pocket out of the 1/2 yard of 44-45" wide fabric. Unfortunately this time I didn't order extra yardage as I usually do. What am I doing wrong? Thanks Theresa

@ Theresa Turner - So sorry you are having a challenge! Somehow we were able to make it work, but you're right, I think 3/4 might be safer for most people, and I'm going to make that change above. Is your fabric super directional? In other words, can you rotate your cuts? If so, you could use the full 18" length and fit the three pieces across the 45" wideth that way. Or you could piece the pocket from two cuts. Or you could even make the pocket a bit smaller.

@ Ann Rush - We have not tested this project in a laminated cotton as it was especially designed for the Tula Pink quilting cotton collection. That said, I don't see any inherent issues with using that substrate. You would simply need to follow all the regular adjustments for pinning, presser feet, needles, etc.

@ Karol - Thanks for checking. I know it is hard for Fabric Depot to keep 100% of their trims online as they have SO many. I'm sure if you called them and let them know you are interested in the piping used for the Sew4Home Elizabeth totes, they'd be happy to help you with a special cut. Their online customer service number is: 1-800-392-3376

I love this pattern!! I was looking for some great bag for international swap and this is the right one. I will do two bags, one for swap buddy and one for myself :D thanks for sharing your gorgeous patterns and tutorials.

OMG!! Love this project... Have been on the hunt for days to find a perfect tote pattern for my Elizabeth fabrics, thank you so much for your creative minds!! You have another winner with this trio of bags!! I started my cutting right away. Can't wait to put the kids to bed tonight so I can get back to work!! Lol

Thanks, Sew4Home, for another winner! With pattern prices in the $10-15 range I love being able to spend my money on fabric (and more and more and more fabric!!!), and get my patterns and inspiration from you. I just got home from the fabric store, but will go to Fabric Depot tomorrow and get something to make one of these. Yay, me!

I love this bag and started cutting up fabric immediately. I just can't seem to find the measurements for fabric 3 - the lining for the bag? Might be me but I just can't find them! SOS from Norway! Thanks!

Thanks Liz! I double checked the PDF I downloaded and there were only 7 steps on getting started with that one missing. I appreciate your quick reply and can't wait to get going on this tonight! As always I love the patterns, easy to follow instructions and great ideas at sew4home. Keep em coming! I'm hooked :-)

I live in the UK but have a dear friend in the Portland area - I'm sending her a link to this with a blantantly pleading email to please-please-please go to Fabric Depot for me! I usually 'make do' with what I can find here in Scotland but this is too cool to pass up. Great bag, great fabrics - WOOT!!

I LOVE THESE BAGS!!! The fabrics, the piping detail, and especially the size. These are real "statement bags" and would be great for a Saturday morning yard sale excursion, a trip to the local farmers market, or to the fabric store. I can see my patterns, magazines, fabric samples, note pads, etc..., stashed in this bag. Like Momo, I can never have enough tote bags. I will definately be doing some of these! I just want to say, too, that I LOVE THIS SITE!!! I check here every day. All the projects are creative, colorful, simple and unique. Even those of us who have sewn for years love a quick project that is all of the above and more. Thank you so much!!!

I love the shaped pockets which give this a more sophisticated personna and turn it into a real "uptown" tote. I also love the bright fabrics, and the extras like piping for some pizazz! No matter how many I have, I can never have enough totes.

The fabrics are really cheerful. I could see myself sewing these fabrics for sure! As for the tote, I so like the style of the exterior bottom. The curve and added piping makes it a "look at me" tote instead of a usual item. I know this is a tote but do you think it would be difficult to incorporate a placket with zipper in the top opening? I guess I am asking about changing it from a tote to a large handbag.

@ angie scott - you can certainly simply read and use the instructions online - or, many people like to take a device to their sewing room - a phone, iPad, laptop - referring to it as needed during the project.

That's what I do with lots of on-line tutorials, I just take my computer right into my sewing room. It really helps me to follow through without having to download. And, I love the design of this bag. I've been making totes and bags for the past two years to sell at our church fair and I am going to add this one for sure.