Tuesday, 26 June 2012

I’m very lucky. I love
working with pilgrims here in Santiago, hearing their stories and seeing their
joy on arrival. I also like writing guides to some of the shorter routes such
as the Camino Inglés. Many pilgrims send me information for the guides which
helps keep them up to date for other pilgrims. They also write about the things
which happen to them along the way. Here is a small selection. I’ve edited some
bits and removed the names. I find them inspiring. I hope you do too:

Dear John,

A few weeks ago already since I finished the
Ingles -- I'm trying to keep it all fresh!I'm glad I got to meet you and talk briefly when
I got my Compostela. The group at the office, by the way, seemed
particularly warm and friendly. I didn't realize at the time that I must
have hit the first group of Amigos, but it was lovely to be greeted in such a
nice way. Please pass along my thanks.Before I forget, I have a
few little notes on the route that may be useful.

The promenade leading to the albergue at Neda

I stayed in Ferrol at El Cairo. The owners
were quiet but friendly. Eating out alone in Spain can be uncomfortable
sometimes, but I had a good supper at the pizzaria next door and felt quite
comfortable.

The promenade route into Neda seems to split
into several paths, and somehow I missed the waymarks leading to the pedestrian
bridge.

The hospitaleiro at Pontedeume albergue was a
friendly and helpful fellow, and wouldn't even let me make a donation. He
says he's there at 7:30 til 9:30 to let people in.

The next day was a hungry one (actually it was
cold, wet, hungry, and exhausting, but thanks to the beautiful camino and some
lovely and incredibly fun fellow peregrinos, it was a fabulous day
overall). Bar Julia was open for coffee but didn't have any food.

Carmen and Benino (hospitaleros in Hospital de
Bruma) were terrific, and made sure I got fed.

Speaking of food, Bar Cruzeiro was closed the
next day. I got coffee at Bar Novo, and should have had the foresight to
ask if they could make me a bocadillo. But what a treat at Hostal
Miraz! I want to eat there everyday. The mass times in Sigueiro have changed from
what is in the guide. I arrived when Mass was almost over, and thus was a
little sheepish asking for a sello, but they could not have been more
welcoming.

I got a little confused getting into
Santiago. I couldn't find the waymark across from the Bar Garcia Lorca,
and turned to the left instead of crossing into the park with the arches.
I was rescued by a woman in a highrise shouting at me from her window and
waving her hands in the opposite direction.

This was just one of so many times on this
little camino that kind strangers went out of their way to help me out. I
have rarely in my life felt so blessed as I did in those five days.
Thanks again for all of your help with the guide and your encouragement. Buen camino, with best wishes,A pilgrim

View from the Camino outside of Ferrol

Dear John

Here are some notes from our recent
Camino...

...When we reached this
point we were absolutely drenched and dripping having walked for a couple of
hours in persistent rain and hail. As we really only wanted some respite from
the rain and a coffee we decided to try the Café Vilar a few doors up as it did
look a bit more inviting and does have a pilgrim sign outside. I ordered and
paid for our coffees and took the opportunity to get our passports stamped
before taking our coffees to a table out of the way. I know I felt thoroughly
wet and miserable and so did my friend as we hunched over our drinks. After a
few minutes we heard a voice behind us in broken English saying “you like” we
turned round and the lady behind the bar had brought each of a plate of bacon
and egg on toast. It was such a kind gesture and never has bacon and egg tasted
so good. It really lifted our spirits and amazingly once we’d left the bar, the
weather improved for a couple of hours and we were able to press on. Earlier in
the week we had been told that originally pilgrims had the right to ask the
locals for food and drink and they had to supply it. I had not expected that in
the 21st century we would still be on the receiving end of such kindness,
especially unasked for. I know we were probably out of season, and it wouldn’t
happen as a matter of course, I also suspect that as we are two ladies of a
certain age (I’m 54 and my friend is 67) we probably elicit a different
response than others might but I will always remember that gesture.

Walking the Camino was
an experience I know we’ll talk about for many years. It is definitely an
achievement that we’re proud of, it was certainly a hard earned Compostella for
us. However, more than that it was also a reminder of the general goodness of people.
We met so many friendly people along our way, they filled us up with water;
showed us the way when we looked lost (even physically walking with us to show
us on two occasions); took care of the dog that followed us for 2kms; fed us
when we looked in need; chatted to us because they wanted to practice their
English (even if we were sitting at the side of road replacing plasters and
changing socks) offered translations when our Spanish fell as short as the
waiters English; and generally wished us a buen viaje.

Best wishes

Two peregrinas

My favourite spot for lunch on the Camino Ingles

Hola John

Just wanted to say thanks so much for
the guide - completely invaluable on my recent walk (I don't know how people
manage it using the waymarks alone!). In fact my guide came in very handy for
several other guideless pilgrims when the waymarks seemed to peter out as the
route enters the outskirts of Santiago by thecafé
bar Poligono! There was only one bit where I managed to get lost through
the first forested path between Poulo and Segueiro where I must have missed the
waymark after the kerb of granite blocks - I kept going in what I hoped was
vaguely the right direction and ended up in an unmarked
(and apparently uninhabited!) hamlet where a kindly farmer on a
tractor got me back on the right path through a series of hand signals (my
phrasebook Spanish improved infinitely over the week!). Maybe it was the
scorching sun, or maybe it was having already walked several km out of my way
that day, but I have to say, that long straight forested section that follows
shortly after feels a lot longer than 4 km!I also met some wonderful people along the way,
which helped alleviate my aching feet and back. At the end of the first day,
feeling a bit bedraggled and despondent having realised that I had packed way
too much stuff and my feet were already hurting(!), I asked some people outside
the cafe bar by the O Burro Bridge for directions to the hotel (didn't see the
big sign behind me!) and they took me in, bought me a beer, ran me a bath and
cooked me tea! They also pointed out a shortcut avoiding Cambre taking the
river path opposite the hotel and turning right till you reach the waymarked
path shortly after the cafe bar Meson Vasco. I must have still been looking a
bit lost and forlorn the next day though as a friendly cyclist on his
way back to Carral walked me the whole of the second leg of my journey and also
insisted on cooking me lunch at the end! And that was apart from the other
pilgrims (Spanish and English) whom I had the pleasure of encountering
along the way.All in all a wonderfully
life-affirming experience!Many thanks again!A pilgrim

Sunday, 17 June 2012

It has been a busy time in Santiago. The Amigos project is
well under way and tonight Mildred and Elizabeth, or “Amigos 7 and 8” arrive. They
take over from William and Mario, who themselves took over from Patro and
Laraine two weeks ago. The number of
pilgrims arriving is increasing daily and regularly now we receive around 1000
pilgrims in the day. Many have questions or simply want to talk about their Camino.
The Amigos provide a ready listening ear. The Amigos are recognised easily by their
distinctive blue Tshirts. This is having the added and welcome consequence that
they are easily recognised in the streets on their way home when pilgrims who
have been welcomed by them return the compliment with waves, greetings and even
more questions.

Amigos Patro and Laraine meeting Eduardo and D. Jenaro from the Pilgrims' Office

As well as Amigos arriving so too did a group of 15 members
and associates of one of the City of London Livery Companies, the Tylers and
Bricklayers. They elect a “Master” each year who can mount a special project to
mark their term of office. This year’s Master is Piers Nicholson, Camino addict
and owner of the popular website http://www.santiago-compostela.net/
So
it was no surprise that his project was leading a group walking the Camino Inglés
from Ferrol. I helped them organise things on the ground including identifying “pick
up points” where they could be assisted by car if it all became too much!
However they didn’t need this safety net very much and they duly made a
triumphant entry into the city. They were very pleased with themselves.

They were quickly followed by old friend Rebekah who had
walked the Camino Portugese with Kathy Gower of the American Pilgrims and
friend Phillip from Belgium. It was great seeing them and meeting Kathy at long
last. They arrived at the same time as George Greenia and Kay Jenkins both
professors from the College of William and Mary at Williamsburg University. There
they have an Institute of Pilgrimage Studies and they were in Santiago with a
group of students before starting to walk the Camino Francés
with them. All these folk in one place was a good excuse for a party and we had
a wonderful dinner together.

Then I had a visit from old friends Jenny
and Graham from Edinburgh who were the very first people to introduce me to the
Camino. I explained this to friends in the Pilgrims’ Office who immediately
retorted “you have created a monster!”

Vila do Conde

After the first groups of Amigos arriving and all of
carousing with visiting friends I was feeling the pressure and looming large is
the 9 Day Novena held annually in the church in A Coruña where I am playing. There
are 2 services a day for the 9 days starting from Tuesday...more of that later. Yes,
overwork and stress can happen even here in Santiago. Fortunately a cure is at
hand and with the Big Man who will sing during the 9 Day Novena I set off on
the Camino Portugese. There are a number
of routes through Portugal and I have walked the “interior route” from Oporto
to Tui to Santiago before. This time I wanted something completely different
and so we decided to explore the route along the coast from Oporto.

Karla making sardines

It seems there are two costal routes in Portugal we decided
to try and find our way along the very coast of Portugal and Spain until we joined
with the interior route at Redondela. Time constraints meant we started in Vila do Conde which can
be reached either by walking along the coast from Oporto or by Metro. I’ve
stayed in Vila do Conde before and I think it is beautiful town. With rooms in
a harbour side hostal we were perfectly located to see the locals buying fish
straight from the arriving fishermen. When
Karla who runs the hostal presented me with a chilled glass of white wine and grilled
sardines which had come out of the sea only hours earlier I was in heaven.

Next day we set out with only a map of the coast of Portugal.
We had been told that there was some waymarking but that the arrows might be
yellow, green or red. No matter. We were
determined to see if we could walk as close to the sea as possible and in doing
so end up in Vigo or Redondela. Shortly after setting off we discovered some
yellow arrows which we followed. These took us along beach side promenades,
boardwalks and paths always within sight of the sea. Had we tried to walk on
the sand it would not only have made walking difficult but we would have missed
the arrows which as it turned out were plentiful and very helpful. Some 24 kms
of good walking later despite some rain we arrived in Esposende. As we entered
the town the rain got heavier and we were glad when we got to the hotel which
had been recommended. Only it was full. There was a huge wedding in progress.
The receptionist took pity on the hungry and very wet pilgrims and telephoned the
three other hotels in town. All full. Undeterred she phoned more until she
found us rooms at almost half the price 10 kms out of town. The “taxi for
Walker” was duly organised. Next day we set out early from Viana do Costela to
walk the 27 kms to Caminha. Although the weather was mixed this was stage where
this route really revealed itself.

Following clear waymarks we made our way
mile after mile along paths just by the side of the ocean. We passed people
collecting shellfish from the rocks and fishermen with long rods impossibly
perched on the rocks as the waves crashed around them. With the smell of the
sea in my nostrils and occasionally the spray from the waves dotting my
spectacles I fell in love with this route. I love the sea and in this stage of
the route there was plenty of it. Once or twice we had to work out where the
arrows were going. But we found the way forward without much difficulty and we
arrived in Caminha tired but full of anticipation for the ferry journey the
next day which would take us to A Guarda across the river to continue on to
Baiona 36 kms to the north. Down where
the ferry leaves there is a very good rooftop restaurant looking out over the
water. The dinner was excellent. Not so was the news from the waiter that the
ferry had broken down and might not be replaced for some days. “Taxi for Walker”
was the only answer if we wanted to continue on the route along the coast
without a 22 kms detour walking on the road. Soon we were in A Guarda and we
set off following the arrows along seaside paths with magnificent views of the
ocean. Sail boats sailed passed way out at sea. The breeze carried the sea spray
and the only sound was from the huge waves crashing on the rocks. I found the
beauty of all of this almost overwhelming and I resolved that day to produce a
guide to this particular route. It has so much to offer.

We decided to split the stage in two and walk 19 kms to Oia
then move on next day to Baiona. This was a wise decision because we were so
enjoying walking close to the sea we missed the waymark which takes the route
up onto a path then road looking down on the rocks. As we found ourselves
scrambling over rocks thinking “this can’t be right” a man appeared pulling on
his clothes from bathing in a sea pool and he happily gave us directions and
all was well.

Arriving in Oia was for me once of those magical Camino
moments. We passed a small chapel at the entrance to the village which sits on
a beautiful bay. Soon we passed the mighty 12 century church and monastery
which dominates the seafront. We booked rooms in the local hotel which cost 35€
for lunch, dinner, bed and breakfast. Moncho the son of the family is profoundly
deaf but we all found a way of communicating. He showed us our rooms and also a
terrace where he asked us to wait. As we looked out over the bay Moncho arrived
with a huge jug of beer, a plate piled high with steaming hot roast beef and a
fresh loaf. The walking, the beer, the beef, the scenery.Wonderful.

Next day as we continued the rest of the stage to Baiona the
sun came out and temperatures soared. The route remained at the water’s edge
for many kilometres taking us all the way into the seaside resort. Baiona is
very picturesque but because of the proximity
of Vigo airport with flights to the UK it has also become a popular holiday
destination and for the first time I heard English voices and saw pubs advertising
English beer. I wouldn’t have been surprised if there were boards next morning
advertising “Full English Breakfasts”. But it was a useful stopping point and
early next day we were off to Vigo where this few days break would soon end.

The route from Baiona to Vigo basically follows a number of beaches
before heading inland on a peaceful and long forest path. The longest beach before reaching the path for
Vigo is the Playa América
which stretched for miles before us. Totally relaxed and recovered by this
point I made two decisions. The first is to return and produce a guide from
Oporto all the way up the edge of the sea to Redondela. The second was to take
off my boots and socks and walk as far as I could in the water. Just what the
doctor ordered.

Friday, 1 June 2012

As you
know I’m tracking the increase in the number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago
from English speaking countries. See below for the comparative figure for the
last four years. The growth is significant. In fact nearly double for some
countries compared to the same period 12 months ago. “The Way” effect? A
consequence of the global economic crisis when people look for new ways? A sign, in countries like Ireland which heads
the list, of people seeking ways other than the traditional church of exploring
faith and spirituality? Perhaps all of the above.

I have now updated the statistics for the
period 1 January 2012 – 31 May 2012. The full analysis of the numbers for the
year to date follows:

Pilgrims
arriving from English speaking countries in the first 5 months of 2012

Johnniewalker gave up a long held career to lead a different way of life. To mark the change he walked one of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago. Now he just can't stop walking. These are some of his stories...