Martin's Magic

Prologue

In 372 A.D., the people of Tours on the Loire forced the hermit Martin to become
their unwilling bishop, bringing him to their city under armed guard. His dirty
appearance, shabby clothes and uncombed hair horrified his fellow bishops. Nevertheless,
he was brilliantly successful during the following 26 years, both with the cross
and the vine. He had churches built all over Gaul. In fact, when he died in 397
his funeral was attended by about 2,000 monks.

Regarding the vine, he domesticated the wild Chenin of Tours, producing the
Chenin Noir, which evolved into today's Chenin Blanc.

...Desmond Seward, "Monks and Wine"

The Chenin Blanc is one of the world's most undervalued treasures...However,
while a superstar on the Loire, it is more of a workhorse in California, where
high yields cause it to lose its distinctive damp-straw and honey flavors.

...British expert Jancis Robinson

The Rest of the Story

Veteran California vintner Robert Pecota is not about to make a "workhorse"
Chenin Blanc. His 1997 version has plenty of those more distinctive flavors Jancis
treasures. They aren't Chardonnay and they're not Sauvignon Blanc. See if your
friends can guess this one.

Author Desmond Seward (and I) both admire the monks, including their preservation
of winemaking during the Dark Ages. However, Mr. Seward mentions someone who didn't
share our admiration. The critic wrote, "Monks are the fleas on God Almighty's
fur coat." His name was Martin Luther. Note: For more about the Robert Pecota
winery, see the Jan. 21,1998 WineDay titled "A
Muscat to Remember."

About the Writer

Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years
on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State
and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American
Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with
one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

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