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Tone's headlight bulbs: fuse issue

Last night around 7pm I hop in the VX to come home for the evening from an outting with some friends. Well, the headlights don't work. 20 miles from home in a parking lot at night with no working headlights. I pop the hood and find that the left and right fuses are blown for the front lamps. I replace them and turn the headlights on. POP! They both blow isntantly. Last 2 spare 10amp fuses I had. I pull the bulbs and inspect them and reseat them again. NOT an easy thing to do in the dark, cold, and no tools.

Anyways, I thought back to what I did that day with the lights since they worked the previous night. I remembered that I had flashed oncoming traffic earlier in the day to warn them of radar ahead. Hmmm.... I never used the highbeams with these new bulbs. Could it be an equation of "bulbs + highbeams + 10amp fuses = fuse POP?"

Luckily the AutoZone across teh street was still open so I grabbed a 30 pack of 10amp fuses. I replaced the right and left and tried them out. They worked. I hit the highbeams a few times. No problems. *sigh*

It remains a mystery. Do these bulbs require perhaps a higher ampage? Couldnt tell from the box they came in since it was all in Japanese, heh. The problem remains a mystery....

I would be interested in an answer too. I ran into the same problem a few months ago. Driving at twilight, turn on the headlights but don't notice a big difference. I thought that maybe it was still to light outside to see the headlights, but as darkness fell I realized that I couldn't see squat. Pull over and realize that the headlights aren't on. Open the hood, check the fuzes, and both 10A fuzes are blown. I had used the new head lamps for a month or so, at that point, and had flipped to the high beams a few times (sometimes quickly to blast oncoming traffic with their high beams on). I replaced both fuses and haven't had a problem since (knock on wood). That was about three months ago.

Hmmmm.....suggestions anyone?

"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
-Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

I got same bulbs from Tone and my fuses blow on the second night after i flash my headlights so i switch them with 15A fuses instead 10 and its been almost month everything work perfect with highbeams and everything.

Sounds like a possible fuse issue then. I'll try switching out the 10ampers and seeing how 15's go. I wondered when I installed the new bulbs if there was gonna be a fuse issue with stock 10's. Guess that answered my inquiry, heh. I don't imagine the stock wiring will have any issues with the higher, yet still low current.

In all, I think I narrowed down the issue. Messing around with it some more, it looks likeif you start the vehicle with the lights already on, the fises will blow. I got it to happen 2 out of 2 times. Also, flashing highbeams rapidly WITH THE LIGHTS OFF it blew them 3 out of 3 times. So ya, it looks like those bulbs are dragging more current through the pipeline than the fuses can handle. I will try these same tests with some 15's.... once I pick up some more fuses, heh.

Of couse they dragging more power cuz they are 100/90w instead stock ones which is 60/55w if i remember but with 15 amp fuses they fine i alredy did those test that you describe and they all pass. In your case your lights shot off at night mine shot off when i was driving and it was cold, rain and windy but i was lucky i have extra fog lights so i had to somehow make them point on road so i can at least see something and drive the rest of 10 miles home and then on next day got new 15 amp fuses.

I would suggest adding a relay setup to each headlight harness. Run the higher amp draw of the two beams off GND and the Positive terminal of the battery, and use the + and - from the offending beam to trigger the coil between connector 85 & 86 on the relay and run the Postive from battery with a 15 amp in-line fuse(14-12 awg wire minimum) to 87 and 87a to the headlight this should solve your problems, without haveing to up the fuse amp which can lead to a serious fire hazard. They should have came with a relay, so should his HID kits.

I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

Tested and tried last night. I ran these things through the wringer and no issues. Wires stayed cool, fuses remained intact, no issues.

I apologise to Tone for making this inquiry public, but since others had the same issues, this will remain a good Search location for future use. Needless to say, these are great bulbs and for an additional $0.30 for fuses at your local auto parts store, they are still a steal.

I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

I did the math! I was not trying downplay your product or product knowledge I was just suggesting some extra insurance/permormance.

Here is a excerpt from HID forums.

Imagine that we connect the HID ballast directly to where the low beam halogen bulb is connected. Some vehicles might be are able to power up HID systems normally without problems at install time. Most probably, it will not last long. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen. The factory design parameters for headlight curcuit is 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, beacuse of heat buildup. These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms. Parts easily reaches several hundered dollars. Add 8h labour to that and it becomes obvious that a $50 wiring harness is a cheap insurance.