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Not sure I have any info, jbf. I was hoping that Lew or even Ken would chime in...they've both have /5s...Ken has been doing some recent work in his headlight shell. I actually check on his thread a few pages back but didn't see anything that I figured would help. Maybe you should page back looking for Ken Tuvman's thread on his headlight work...maybe you'll see something that helps you.

Hi Jonathon - if t/s relay not fitting snugly in socket could it be the relay is not OEM?
Mine is a Lucas, came on the bike and fits snugly - the socket is just stuffed inside the headlight bucket - not attached to anything. Do you have a Haynes or Clymer service manual? You need a schematic if you plan on spending time inside the bucket.

How long have you had the bike? Where in LA do you live? Are you aware of Airheads.org? They publish a monthly newsletter and also host various tech days - if you need contact info let me know.

Your problem is solve-able - if you're interested in DIY, it will take some focus and patience. Lew Morris, on our forum, is one of the most knowledgeable and nicest persons you'll find in our Airhead Forum - let me know how it goes

P.S. If you're not aware of Hucky's Spare Parts, he sells many new slash 5 parts - he won't do diagnosis via email or phone - another good resource is Craig "Vech" - his website is probably listed in Kurt's resource link under his signature line - Craig will help you over the phone and also should have parts to sell you if you need a new socket or t/s relay.

Hi Jonathon - if t/s relay not fitting snugly in socket could it be the relay is not OEM?
Mine is a Lucas, came on the bike and fits snugly - the socket is just stuffed inside the headlight bucket - not attached to anything. Do you have a Haynes or Clymer service manual? You need a schematic if you plan on spending time inside the bucket.

How long have you had the bike? Where in LA do you live? Are you aware of Airheads.org? They publish a monthly newsletter and also host various tech days - if you need contact info let me know.

Your problem is solve-able - if you're interested in DIY, it will take some focus and patience. Lew Morris, on our forum, is one of the most knowledgeable and nicest persons you'll find in our Airhead Forum - let me know how it goes

P.S. If you're not aware of Hucky's Spare Parts, he sells many new slash 5 parts - he won't do diagnosis via email or phone - another good resource is Craig "Vech" - his website is probably listed in Kurt's resource link under his signature line - Craig will help you over the phone and also should have parts to sell you if you need a new socket or t/s relay.

Hey Ken,

I actually installed the relay myself (replaced an older one) and it fit very snug in the beginning. When my turn signals started acting intermittent I popped the headlight off and noticed that the relay was loose in the connector. Not to mention the connector itself was not fixed to the rubber mount.

I'm actually out near Monterey Park, CA (near pasadena and east los angeles) but I work in Burbank/Glendale. I checked for a tech day down here but didnt see anything. Granted I only looked through the airheads website (dont have the latest airmail around here)

Hi Jonathan - I don't think mounting the socket is your problem - if the relay flasher is popping out of the socket it could be you need to slightly bend the blades out a bit to get a tighter fit or the socket has worn out which doesn't sound right.

I bet Lew will weigh in soon! In the meantime, I'd keep exploring. There is a solution.

The flasher is plugged into Hella brown plastic or bakelite fixture same as used for headlight

There is a rubber mount between this fixture and the mounting plate projecting from the side of the headlight shell
this rubber mount has bonded on threaded projections up and down - one goes into the bakelite fixture and is secured with a nut
Other goes down through mounting plate and is secured with a nut
The original taller BMW flasher had a large spring around it also for vibration damping

All this is original setup which in my opinion is not needed for ordinary function
All that is needed is to crimp on terminals to the ends of wires going to the bakelite fixture
and then push these terminals over the spades projecting from any ordinary "heavy duty" flasher - the kind used for older cars with trailers
wrap the whole mess in bubble wrap or foam and stuff into the bucket in such a way that the wrap or foam does not come near the
very hot back end of the H4 bulb

Vibration will no longer be a problem and wire connections will be more failproof

The flasher is plugged into Hella brown plastic or bakelite fixture same as used for headlight

There is a rubber mount between this fixture and the mounting plate projecting from the side of the headlight shell
this rubber mount has bonded on threaded projections up and down - one goes into the bakelite fixture and is secured with a nut
Other goes down through mounting plate and is secured with a nut
The original taller BMW flasher had a large spring around it also for vibration damping

All this is original setup which in my opinion is not needed for ordinary function
All that is needed is to crimp on terminals to the ends of wires going to the bakelite fixture
and then push these terminals over the spades projecting from any ordinary "heavy duty" flasher - the kind used for older cars with trailers
wrap the whole mess in bubble wrap or foam and stuff into the bucket in such a way that the wrap or foam does not come near the
very hot back end of the H4 bulb

Vibration will no longer be a problem and wire connections will be more failproof

That is a great idea. This may be redundant but do you know the proper size/type nut should be used on the hella connector?

Jury rigs are cool. I just prefer to keep everything OEM where possible (and economical); the replacement connector is only $7-8, and will probably last another thirty years or so before you have to replace it again.

We're lucky on these bikes because the electrical system is still relatively "simple" (compared to the /6 and later models). A heavy duty flasher unit is perfectly fine to substitute; just make sure you buy a mechanical one (vs. electronic) ... in my experience they hold up better to vibration.

While you're at it, you might as well buy two ... it's the same connector used on the head light (and it's old too).

The nut, IIRCC, is 4mm.

"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John WoodenLew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
1963 Dnepr

Jury rigs are cool. I just prefer to keep everything OEM where possible (and economical); the replacement connector is only $7-8, and will probably last another thirty years or so before you have to replace it again.

We're lucky on these bikes because the electrical system is still relatively "simple" (compared to the /6 and later models). A heavy duty flasher unit is perfectly fine to substitute; just make sure you buy a mechanical one (vs. electronic) ... in my experience they hold up better to vibration.

While you're at it, you might as well buy two ... it's the same connector used on the head light (and it's old too).

The nut, IIRCC, is 4mm.

Hey Lew (or anyone with a /5)

Question for you. The nut is 4mm but how the heck does it attach to the rubber/screw mount?

When I look at my setup in the bucket, it appears to be setup like this:

I don't see how this works. The space where the nut would go on the hella connector is too small to fit a socket or any type of wrench/etc. The diagram makes it seem like the threads are facing upwards.

Wouldnt a better way be to have a hex screw/bolt with spring washer go down into the hella connector, then the threads inserted into the rubber mount (plus spacer/washer), then into the mounting plate, and finalizing it off with a spring washer and a 4mm nut?