I keep encountering the most impeccably-presented, delicious-looking ice creams on Instagram from different Halifax eateries. I’m simultaneously impressed by some of the creations and aghast that I’ve yet to try any of them. So, this summer, I’ve decided to take on the very important work of sampling the creations that have caught my eye—but first, I’ve rounded up the list so you can treat it as a checklist, too. As I try them, I’ll update this post with my reviews and will order them based on my favourites!

Taiyaki 52

Just LOOK at that cone! I’ve seen ice creams like this from NYC featuring the fish-shaped waffle and a swirl of soft serve with toppings, but never in Halifax. Taiyaki 52 recently opened on Brunswick Street, and ever since, I’ve been daydreaming of their soft serve matcha ice cream in a freshly baked waffle cone. You can check out more of their delicious-looking creations on Instagram.

Portland Street Crêperie

I can feel my blood sugar spiking just looking at this Portland Street Crêperie pairs a freshly baked bubble waffle in a cup or paper cone (I’ve seen both), a selection of ice cream, and assorted toppings (I’ve seen candy hearts, sprinkles, hard candy bits, and chocolate syrup so far) to create truly inspired combinations. Almost too pretty to eat! Daydream of more possible combos as posted on their Instagram.

DAIRY BAR by Manual Co.

The Stillwell Beer Garden is practically a second home during the summer, so it’s frankly shocking that I’ve managed to frequent the place without ever trying an ice cream from Manual Co.’s DAIRY BAR. I think the basis of it is that if I’m having a beer or cider, I’m more likely to reach for something salty. I intend to change that this summer and make it to the DAIRY BAR to try one of their frequently-changing cone flavours, or better yet, one of their more indulgent-looking concoctions (last year they had ice cream stuffed cream puffs and a banana split, pictured). More drool-worthy and up-to-date specials are on their Instagram.

Roll On Two Chimney Cakes

Cake as a cone? You can roll this on into my mouth, please. This is truly inspired—from the twist soft serve, the chocolate dip around the cake, the sprinkles, and the actual cherry on top. There appear to be a number of options for toppings, etc. (as seen in this video of them assembling an ice cream… uuhhhnn) and my mind is racing thinking of the possibilities. Head over to their Instagram if you want to feel hungrier.

Am I missing any must-check-out ice cream spots in Halifax on my list? Which are your favourites?

Follow along on Instagram for more eating/drinking updates, live ice cream reviews, and check back here as I tick these off over the summer!

I’ll never forget the first time I visited Cape Breton. My grandmother, who is originally from Cheticamp, took me on a trip to experience the Cabot Trail when the foliage was at its peak in mid-October. I was overcome with emotion as each twist and turn in the road revealed walls of spectacular colour and coastal vistas. I was hooked—and I knew I had to share it with Brett. Every year since that first trip, Brett and I have returned to Cape Breton to soak it all up.

While autumn is unquestionably gorgeous, Cape Breton has so much to offer year-round. As a tribute to some of the incredible experiences we’ve had, I’ve rounded up the highlights with a focus on Cape Breton’s incredible look-offs, hiking trails, and the scenic drives that connect it all together.

If you’re beginning to plan some warm weather adventures (or even far enough ahead to the fall—I really wouldn’t blame you!), I hope these tips can serve as inspiration. This year, we’re planning a trip up to Cape Breton in spring with a focus on waterfalls, so stay tuned for a future post!

If you’re on a romantic getaway, the 1 bedroom chalets are ideal; they feature a jacuzzi tub and a wood stove which offers the perfect place to soak after a long day of hiking. The chalets are tucked into the hillside which offers a beautiful view every time you open your door. The grounds of the distillery are lovely and the onsite restaurant is a nice convenience; make sure to try one of their whisky flights!

If you’re travelling in a group, this is a fantastic option; we were a group of 6 but it could have accommodated up to 8 people. Our review (under Brett’s name but penned by me) really says it all. It was an adorable, cozy, well-appointed spot and the host is incredible.

Once you’ve found a home base, it’s time to start planning your adventures. Without futher ado…

Acadian Trail, Cheticamp

One of my favourite hiking trails of all time, the Acadian Trail climbs 365 meters above Cheticamp, offering stunning panoramic look-offs along the way. The reward is well worth the work—taking in the views of the Cheticamp River, coast, and the rolling hills of the highlands is truly awe-inspiring. In addition to the incredible look-offs, you’ll notice the forest around you change as you ascend.

The second half of the trail is a descent through the woods following a river. The full hike is about 12km and takes 3-4 hours; if you don’t have that time to commit, I recommend at least doing the first half of the trail which is where the look-offs are situated.

Be on the watch for bears and moose on this trail!

Gypsum Mine, Cheticamp

A short walk on a crusher dust ATV trail leads to what at one time was a gypsum quarry. The hole from the mine has since filled in with water, creating a gorgeous little lake with a vivid turquoise hue. The colour is reminiscent in some ways of the big lakes between mountains in Western Canada (just a LOT smaller!).

When you arrive, to the left you’ll see a rope you can climb to get up to a look-off. While slightly vertigo-inducing, the view from the top of the steep hill is stunning. That said, use your own discretion; a misstep and a tumble could cause serious harm.

If you’re visiting in the summer, this would be a great place to swim! The full walk to the Gypsum Mine and back can be done in under an hour as it’s only 3-4 km.

Skyline Trail, Inverness

No surprise here! The Skyline Trail is one of, if not the most, famous trails in Cape Breton. I’m not sure it qualifies as a hike per se—it’s more of a walk along a well-groomed crusher dust trail—but this makes it easier and more accessible, which can be a nice change of pace. The highlight of this trail is the incredible look-off at the end—it feels like you’re at the edge of the world! If you can plan it, this is likely one of the best places in all of Nova Scotia to watch the sunset.

If you decide to take in sunset, make sure you give yourself enough time to get back before it gets totally dark, and/or come equipped with flashlights. There is lots of wildlife near this trail, so exercise caution; for example, I’ve seen moose just about every time I’ve been, and there is coyote in the area. We always carry a bit of coyote spray just in case.

Franey Trail, Ingonish

On the opposite side of the island from all of the places listed above, Franey Trail is also among my favourite hiking trails of all time. It shares some similar characteristics as the Acadian Trail in that it is a challenging uphill hike that rewards you with mind-blowing look-offs and views. The views from Franey, though, are altogether different and equally spectacular.

The first look-off overlooks a river valley between highlands. The “main event” look-off is at the top of the trail and offers a 360 degree view of the coast which is attached to another river valley between highlands. Absolutely breathtaking!

The trail is a loop and is about 7km; however, both times I’ve been we’ve simply gone back the way we came to enjoy the look-offs again on the way out. This cuts total walking time down by a bit and depending on your pace, you could do this hike in 2-3 hours.

Driving the Cabot Trail

Honestly, just driving from place to place along the Cabot Trail is an adventure in and of itself. I recommend taking the time to drive the full loop and enjoy the twists, turns, and delights around every corner. There are many look-offs along the way—you won’t be disappointed by stopping at just about every one of them to take in the scenery. To make the most of your driving, make sure you have a full tank of gas (there aren’t many if any gas stations in the deeper parts of the park) and put a fire playlist together in advance so you have great soundtrack to complement your visual experience!

Putting Your Cape Breton Road Trip Together

Depending on where and how long you’re staying in Cape Breton, to fit all of these things in, you could break things up in a few different ways. The first few parts are all fairly close together (especially the Acadian Trail and Gypsum Mine which are both in Cheticamp); it’s really only Franey that’s on the opposite side.

A nice way to spend a day is to start with the Acadian Trail, perhaps break for some lunch in Cheticamp (Le Gabriel is a classic; try the Acadian Platter for a true taste of local cuisine), and then check out the Gypsum Mine.

The next day, you could hike Franey Trail in the morning, take the long/scenic route along the Cabot Trail to enjoy the drive and scenery, making your way to the Skyline Trail for sunset.

Again, depends on where you’re staying, but we’ve done a similar route in the past when we called Glenora home base and it worked quite nicely.

Are you planning a trip to Cape Breton? If you’ve been, what are your favourite places to explore? Let me know in the comments!

Also, stay tuned for my next post on our Cape Breton waterfall tour and follow along on Instagram for highlights in real-time.

THE LOOK OF LOVE (moments before laying into a burger chez Stillwell last year)

A sure signs of spring in Halifax is the advent of one of the city’s most highly-anticipated annual events: BURGER WEEK. For the last few years, Brett and I have tested the limits of our stomachs, belts, and wallets to experience as many meat highlights as we can (not extreme by any stretch compared to some others, but I think our record in a week is 9).

This year, we managed to fit in 5 total from the shortlist I created a few weeks ago. This post summarizes all of the burgers I tried along with reviews (and the leftover list of those we didn’t get to try… damn!)

As an aside, I’m not sponsored by Burger Week—just super into burgers, validated by supporting a good cause (FEEDNS), and limited-time novelty.

Halifax Burger Week 2018 Reviews

It turns out we saved the best for last. This was my final burg of the week (after having Ardmore’s for breakfast and Barrington Steakhouse’s for lunch, no less), so it really says something that this was my favourite given it could have been all to easy to be burged-out at this point

A pork patty was a nice change from beef, and topped with a tomato aioli, crispy onions, and bacon, it was the perfect amount and combination of flavour without being overpowering

Brooklyn Warehouse can really do no wrong IMO when it comes to food, and burgers, so no surprise that this came through with the quality and finesse I’ve grown to expect

This burger had a LOT going on (beef patty, duck confit, fried goat cheese, bacon, an egg) but that’s what drew me to it in the first place

Every bite was a flavour burst and I thought the flavours all worked really well together—smoky, a touch of sweet, salty, and not overly greasy. Brett didn’t agree; he thought some of the flavours were contradictory or overwhelming

It’s messy as hell to eat; wet naps would have been a helpful accompaniment

The option to order a side salad instead of fries was VERY welcome and the salad was super tasty

They donate a whopping $4 to FEEDNS from the $17 total for burger+fries, which is among the best donations I’ve seen

If you’re planning an upcoming trip to Portugal—or are looking for inspiration for the perfect beach vacation—you’ll want to consider visiting Lagos and its sunny beaches, stunning sandstone sculptures carved by the sea, and laid back vibe. Continuing on from my last post which described our five day itinerary in Lisbon, I’ve compiled the highlights of our trip to Lagos in September 2017 with best places to eat and things to do during your stay.

Getting To & From Lagos

If you’re coming from Lisbon like we were, the best way to get there is the train from Oriente Station. It’s a smooth train ride with 1 connection and 4 hours total travelling time. When you arrive, you’ll likely need to get a taxi in to town from the train station.

If you’re flying into Lagos (or if you’re planning to fly out when you leave), the best way to get to/from the airport is to book a transfer ahead of time as it’s a fair distance from town. The private transfer was €65 but well worth it; the alternative is cab which would be over £100, or train, in which case you’d need to cab to train station anyway.

We discovered this cute little cafe on the floor level of a b&b, offering fresher breakfast options (smoothies, avocado toast with eggs, etc.) for similar prices as Cafe Odeon but a much nicer atmosphere (cleaner, more spacious, not so busy)

PRO TIP: check tides ahead of time and book at low tide; since we went at high tide we could not safely access many of the caves and grottos we had hoped to see

Guide was knowledgeable and helpful

Bring your own beer / wine on board

Fun but going at low tide would have been better

Not for first time kayakers, especially if the tide is high and there are waves; one kayak with 2 girls struggling and held group up

Bar Hopping & Nightlife

Lagos is known for its nightlife, and for good reason; while it’s not as wild as say, Ibiza, the town really comes alive at night with patios spilling out into the streets, lots of little bars everywhere, and a big market and square that fills with people at night

After dinner, bump around from bar to bar for different drinks, dancing, and great people-watching

Have you visited Lagos before, and if so, what were the highlights for you? Or are you planning a trip soon and have Lagos on your list? Let me know in the comments!

Taken from the plane as we left Lisbon, this view shows Lisbon’s wonderful winding streets (tip: Lisbon is essentially situated on a hill, so bring good shoes and be prepared to walk to take it all in!)

We had an incredible experience travelling through Portugal during August-September 2017. Our first stop along the way was Lisbon where we spent 5 days taking in the city’s sights, culture, food and drink. Since we kept a detailed itinerary of each day, I’ve decided to share it here in case it can be helpful as you plan your upcoming travels or if you’re looking for inspiration. We had an wonderful time in Portugal—and Lisbon in particular—and would recommend it in a heartbeat to anyone considering it!

Garden tour & picnic

Velocity Cafe – rent bikes (closed while we were there so couldn’t rent bikes; looks like city is adding infrastructure for grab/go rentals)

Parque Monsanto — we went, however being on foot made it challenging; it’s a huge park and found it a bit difficult to navigate as there’s little information online. May have been better on bike but there are likely other better ways closer to the core to spend a few hours.

Labyrinth of manmade caves that would have been difficult / time consuming to navigate without someone who knew what they’re doing (some people miss highlight of underground tower because they get lost)

Go early as possible as there are lots of tight spaces which would be tough with a crowd

Drinks at Pavilhão Chinês

Very weird and expensive drinks (nothing overly special for price) but worth seeing; suggest browsing around like a museum to take it all in

Day 5 — Art and Culture to End

National Museum of Ancient Art

Madonna exhibit from Vatican which was in town

Collection of other art, some interesting pieces like the “lettuce” jewelry

Could spend several hours here

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

Rich man’s personal collection spanning ancient Egypt to 1900s and many different cultures

In a large garden open to public

Other Attractions in Lisbon

We didn’t have time to check these out but they were on our list… next time!

Elevador da Glória — apparently overrated/expensive but leads to beautiful park/garden with great views of the city. Under construction when we were there unfortunately but would be a great place to relax with a beer and take in the view

Jardim de S. Pedro de Alcântara

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

Laurentina — “King of codfish”

Butchers — apparently best meat in Lisbon

Have you been to Lisbon before? Are you planning a trip sometime soon? Let me know in the comments!

One of the things I love best about living in Halifax: the proximity to amazing hiking trails that make you feel as though you’re in the middle of the wilderness, when in reality, you’re just a 10-30 minute drive from downtown.

For the times when you have an itch to get outside—but only have a couple of hours to spare and don’t want to spend most of your time driving to and from your destination—I’ve rounded up my top 5 favourite hiking trails in Halifax.

Depending on your familiarity with hiking trails in Halifax, there’s a chance you may not have heard of all of these before. Many of the trails that get attention or are well known—like Duncan’s Cove or the Bluff, or even park-based crusher dust trails like in Point Pleasant Park, Shubie Park, etc.—while beautiful in their own rights, can often be crowded or may not (in my opinion) offer as much of an immersive nature experience.

With that in mind, the following trails made my top 5 list for several important reasons:

They’re all within a 30 minute drive—or less—from downtown Halifax

They offer a tremendous “bang for your buck” in terms of natural beauty and sights; bonus points for trails with look-offs, interesting scenery, proximity to water, and so on

They tend not to be as trafficked and busy as some of the more popular trails around the city (my motivation for getting outside is typically to get away from crowds, not be part of one!)

So without further ado, my 5 favourite hiking trails in Halifax are…

1. Hobson’s Lake Trail

This trail is #1 for me in Halifax, hands down, for so many reasons. Part of the Kearney Lake Trail System, the full loop is over 5km through the woods and granite outcroppings and around three lakes, and takes approx. 2 hours. While I’ve hiked the full loop once, what I love about this trail is that it’s easy—and still extremely enjoyable—to carve the hike up and just do one side or the other. For example, we frequently will just hike to the first lake, Hobson’s Lake, where there’s an opening and access to the lake, a stream with a mini waterfall, and a look-off. The other option is to start on the opposite side and hike directly to Fox Lake. This loop has so much to offer that I’ve broken Fox Lake out as its own in the #2 spot.

In summary, highlights of this trail are:

Space at the base of Hobson Lake to sit and enjoy

The mini waterfall and stream

A look-off to Hobson Lake

Rugged terrain and inclines which make for a moderately challenging hike

The ability to hike just to Hobson’s Lake for a shorter trip or do the full loop which covers three lakes (including Ash Lake, and Fox Lake, below)

A few tips:

Be prepared (clothing, footwear, etc.); it can be wet/boggy in places and inclines/declines can make for challenging portions of the hike

There are a handful of signs throughout the trail network; however, there aren’t many trail markers, and there are lots of little offshoots in the trail, so to stay on track you’ll need to pay attention to where you’re going. Halifax Trails has plotted the trail on a helpful Google Map.

2. Fox Lake Trail

This spot is so beautiful, and easy to enjoy all on its own even if you don’t hike the full Hobson’s Lake Trail, that I felt it deserved its own place on my top 5 list. Rather than go right when you enter the trail which takes you to Hobson’s Lake, head toward the left to get back to Fox Lake. Before going directly down to the lake, follow signs to the Fox Lake look-off; you won’t be disappointed. This look-off offers a stunning, panoramic view of Fox Lake and is a perfect spot to set up a picnic or just relax and enjoy the view. Hiking to the look-off and back is just under 3km.

In summary, highlights of this trail are:

A stunning, panoramic look-off to the lake

A granite opening at the base of the lake (perfect for picnics)

Rugged terrain and inclines which make for a moderately challenging hike

The ability to continue along the full Hobson’s Lake loop, above, if you felt like a longer hike

A few tips:

Be prepared (clothing, footwear, etc.); it can be wet/boggy in places and inclines/declines can make for challenging portions of the hike

There are a handful of signs throughout the trail network; however, there aren’t many trail markers, and there are lots of little offshoots in the trail, so to stay on track you’ll need to pay attention to where you’re going. The exact trail on Google Maps has been plotted by Halifax Trails, which provides a helpful reference.

3. The High Head

In addition to our proximity to so many beautiful forests and lakes, being surrounded by the ocean is one of the best parts of living in Nova Scotia. Apart from going to the beach, one of my favourite ways to experience being close to the ocean is to explore the coast—and one of the best (and perhaps most underrated) coastal hikes in Halifax has to be at the High Head in Prospect. The trail is part of a nature reserve and hugs the coast for 4km, so you can do the full trail for an 8km return hike or simply tailor it based on how much time and energy you have. There’s so much to love about the views along this trail: looking out to all of the little islands just off the coast, climbing the massive granite rocks to sit and watch the waves crash, or enjoying the incredible view of the sunset (I’d argue this is one of the best places in Halifax to watch a sunset).

In summary, highlights of this trail are:

Incredible coastal views

Massive granite outcroppings to climb and watch the waves

Awesome spot to watch a sunset

Rugged terrain which makes for a moderately challenging hike

A few tips:

Be prepared (clothing, footwear, etc.); almost every time I’ve been, there have been spots that are extremely muddy/boggy

Bear in mind that it’s a designated nature reserve so try to stay on the trails and respect the area

The trail isn’t marked, but it’s linear, so you don’t really need a map to find your way

If you go to watch the sunset, bring a flashlight for the way back!

4. Susie’s Lake Hiking Trail

Location: Trail head is directly behind the Kent on Chain Like Drive in Bayers Lake, to the right (actually)

The juxtaposition of a concrete, lifeless industrial business park leading to wilderness and immersive beauty in a matter of minutes makes this trail and the lake it leads to all the more special. Who would have dreamed that a Kent parking lot would double as an entrance to a hiker’s paradise? At first you’ll have to climb down a small hill of cement scraps, but the trail will lead you through the woods and granite eventually leads to Susie’s Lake where there are multiple points at the base of the lake to relax or swim. The highlight of this trail, though, is the look-off to the lake on the top of a massive slab of granite. The full loop is about 3km, but to get back to the look-off only takes about 15 minutes, which makes it another great place to watch the sunset.

In summary, highlights of this trail are:

The stunning look-off to the lake

Great place to watch the sunset

Space at the base of the lake to swim or relax

Rugged terrain which makes for a moderately challenging hike

A few tips:

The trail isn’t marked, and there are lots of offshoots, so it can be easy to get off track; recommend using the Google Map plotted by Halifax Trails.

If you go to watch the sunset, bring a flashlight for the way back

5. Nichol’s Lake Hiking Trail

Location: Trail head is at the very end of McDonald Lake Road, Hatchet Lake, NS

Winter hike to the waterfall at Nichol’s Lake (can you spot me?)

This trail is our most recent discovery and it was a real treat, leading to a small waterfall and river which flows into the lake. Of all the hiking trails listed, this is likely the least challenging physically; it’s a crusher dust trail and the inclines were fairly gradual. There are lots of trail offshoots and different access points to the lakes if you care to explore around, including a lovely sandy spot which would make a great place to swim in the summer. The waterfall area makes a great place to stop and relax or bring a picnic; to get to the waterfall area first, stay right when the trail splits.

In summary, highlights of this trail are:

The small waterfall on the river

Multiple access points to the lake

Terrain and trail style make it less challenging than some other hikes

A few tips:

Be prepared (clothing, footwear, etc.); even though the trail was crusher dust, there were a few spots that were muddy or with large puddles

Despite the trails being so established, there are no Google Maps of the trail; however, finding the waterfall is easy (just go right when the trail splits), and if you wish to explore around and want to keep your bearings, pull up Google Maps with your location settings on to see whether you’re pointing toward the lake/river vs. the parking area where you came

Have you hiked any of these trails? Which are your favourites (listed or not)? Let me know in the comments. For more adventures in real time, follow me on Instagram.

I’ve been meaning to post this recipe for a while now, and given that I’m not much of a football fan to begin with, almost hate to admit that Superbowl is what finally got me around to it. This is the recipe I used to supply Brett with his potluck contribution to the party he’s going to today—but beyond Superbowl, this super simple slow cooker pulled pork recipe has been a hit in our household for quite some time now.

It’s the perfect, low maintenance type of dish to make in a big batch and then have meals for the week. It’s so tasty and versatile that it makes a great main for dinner, and leftovers are awesome in breakfast (as pictured above), as a salad topper for lunches, and more—the possibilities are endless!

My favourite cut of meat to make this with is a pork shoulder roast. We source ours at Getaway Farm at the Halifax Seaport Market (all of their pork is pastured-raised), and the shoulder roast is an amazing value at around $6/lb. For slow cooker recipes, you don’t need to splurge on the cut of meat thanks to the slow and low cooking process. Choosing high quality, well-raised meat doesn’t have to break the bank, and this is a perfect example of an economical cut that provides an awesome protein source for multiple meals for even further savings.

Ingredients

2-3lb pork roast (any would work but as mentioned above, but a pastured shoulder roast is my favourite)

Instructions

Mix sauce ingredients together.

Put the pork roast in the slow cooker and spread the sauce over top.

Cook on low for 6-8 hours.

Once cooked, shred meat apart with forks.

To thicken up the liquid for a saucier consistency, add a sprinkle of rice flour (any other flour you have on hand would also work) and stir well. Continue to add a sprinkle of flour and stir until you achieve your desired sauce consistency.

Serving Suggestions

As mentioned above, the possibilities with pulled pork are endless and limited only by your imagination. Some of my favourite ways to serve it, however, would be:

If you’ve followed my cooking adventures for a while, you would know that I take great pleasure in replicating some of my favourite restaurant dishes at home (faux pho anyone?). After recently nailing a tabbouleh recipe, and it quickly becoming a staple side dish, I was inspired to broaden my Lebanese cuisine repertoire and attempt to re-create the shawarma experience at home. Despite not having a rotisserie, I was able to capture a lot of the flavour and juiciness that makes shawarma so damn good in the slow cooker—also making this dish extremely easy and low-maintenance. With slow cooker dishes, it’s just set it and forget it—put it on at night to wake up to a house filled with delicious aromas and a ready meal, or put it on before work to have dinner already cooked when you get home, making it ideal for busy people.

And because no shawarma is complete without toum, the Lebanese garlic sauce it’s typically accompanied by at restaurants, I tried my hand at that too following this recipe (using organic sunflower oil and my blender)—and OH. MY. GOD.

I fell in love with tabbouleh when I was first introduced to Lebanese food, but it never crossed my mind until recently how simple it would be to make at home. This delicious, incredibly easy and quick-to-prepare parsley-based salad has now become a staple side dish thanks to its versatility and the freshness it brings to a plate—not to mention the amazing nutritional punch it packs.

In general, fresh herbs are such an asset, both for the flavour they contribute to dishes and their numerous health benefits. Parsley in particular is a bit of a superstar, containing a rich array of vitamins (notably K + C) and minerals as well as compounds that have been shown to reduce inflammation, inhibit tumour formation and more. Click here for a more in-depth summary of parsley’s nutritional profile and numerous health benefits.

While traditional preparations of tabbouleh often include bulgur, this recipe I use skips it and includes a few other modifications.

]]>http://lauraahawkins.com/food-and-drink/recipes/sides/fresh-simple-tabbouleh/feed/1First Time Traveller’s Tips: Barcelonahttp://lauraahawkins.com/travel/first-time-travellers-guide-to-barcelona/
http://lauraahawkins.com/travel/first-time-travellers-guide-to-barcelona/#respondSun, 30 Nov 2014 18:16:28 +0000http://lauraahawkins.com/?p=689In July 2014, Brett and I had the pleasure of traveling together through Europe for two weeks, with stops in Spain, Italy and France. We made amazing memories and got to see and do some incredible things, visiting cities we had never been to before. Many of the best things we experienced during our travels were thanks to suggestions of others—through friends who had previously been to the locations we were visiting, or via online reviews and travel blogs. We felt our research paid off, helping us make the most of our time and maximizing our enjoyment.

As we transition to winter here in Nova Scotia, Brett and I can’t help but look back a little longingly on our summer travels. Partially for the trip down memory lane, and partially to return the good karma for others planning trips and traveling, we’ve decided to do a city-by-city account of some our favourite things we did, saw, ate and drank as first-timers in the cities we visited.

Our first planned stop on our trip was Barcelona in the Catalan region of Spain. We had always heard wonderful things about Barcelona from friends and acquaintances who had visited before, but I don’t think we were prepared for just how much we would fall in love with the city.

We stayed there for just under four days along La Rambla—a bustling central street in the downtown featuring a pedestrian strip down the middle filled with people, vendors and restaurant patios—at a hotel the Orient Atiram. We loved this location and found we were able to easily get around mostly by foot.

Best Things to Do in Barcelona

This list is by no means complete as there are still things we wanted to do that we didn’t get a chance to, but provides a snapshot of some of our favourite activities and sights as first-timers in the city.

Park Ciutadella – There are a number of gorgeous parks in Barcelona, but we particularly enjoyed Park Ciutadella which was only a 10-15 minute walk from our hotel. We spent the afternoon of our first full day there, and to celebrate our arrival we stopped at one of the many small markets / grocery stores on the walk over and picked up a bottle of orange juice and a local sparkling wine called cuva to make mimosas in the park. The park featured some beautiful statues, gardens and a big pond in the centre with paddle boats—it was alive with people of all ages and all walks of life enjoying the sun, setting up blankets and enjoying food, beer, wine, games and music.

Barcelona Zoo – Right beside Park Ciutadella is the Barcelona Zoo, which was big and beautiful. There was an incredible variety of animals, all of whom looked well taken care of with large living spaces.

Beach – A stretching sandy beach lines the old part of Barcelona’s downtown, making for a stunning visual combination of architecture and mediterranean blue water. Enjoying drinks in public spaces is accepted, so like the park, we would pick up refreshments on the way over, then enjoy our respective beer and ginger beer on the beach while catching rays and people watching. And like the park, the beach positively buzzes on beautiful summer days—no question it’s the place to “see and be seen”. Lots of beautiful people (and toplessness)

Flamenco Show – One evening, we booked tickets to El Tabloa de Carmen Flamenco show, which included dinner and drinks. Admittedly the food and drink left a bit to be desired, however the entertainment was well worth it, featuring traditional song and dance performances by some incredibly talented men and women.

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc – Following the Flamenco show, we wandered down the hill and happened upon the Magic Fountain of Montjuïc, which features breathtaking light shows at night accompanied by music. This was an unexpected but delightful discovery—we must have spent at least an hour in front of the fountain watching the show, which reminded us of fireworks with water. Brett got a great video of it to watch on Instagram.

Sagrada Família Catedral – The Sagrada Família Catedral was unlike anything I’ve ever seen—a truly astonishing architectural feat, funded by donations alone. Its construction started in 1880, and is still in progress over one hundred years later. Tickets can be purchased online in advance, which we took advantage of and would recommend as it allowed us to avoid waiting in line. Admission includes touring the inside of the church with its breathtaking stained glass, and museum downstairs which details the fascinating history of the construction of the church and its architect Antoni Gaudi.

Where to Eat & Drink in Barcelona

There is no shortage of wonderful places to eat and drink in Barcelona, with all ranges of price points and formality. The places we ate during our visit skewed a bit more casual, so again, this is by no means a comprehensive list if you’re looking for something a bit more upscale. With that said, in our experience, some of the food we enjoyed most came from smaller and somewhat unassuming spots.

Bormuth [Carrer Plaça Comercial nº1 08003] – When thinking of food in Barcelona, tapas naturally comes to mind—a variety of appetizers (or snacks) in Spanish cuisine that feature both hot and cold dishes built for sharing. While we enjoyed tapas at a number of restaurants during our stay, the one that stood out for us most was Bormuth. The atmosphere was wonderful, with big windows and doors left open for fresh air and walls covered in wood or exposed brick. The food was equally enjoyable and priced well, and we enjoyed several dishes including meatballs, spicy sausages and ham and cheese croquettes washed down with local craft beer.

Restaurante Bacoa [Carrer Colomines, 2] – We discovered Restaurante Bacoa—specializing in giant gourmet hamburgers—through a local food recommendation site, and decided to check it out for lunch after we visited the Sagrada Família cathedral because of the rave reviews it received. Let me tell you, we were not disappointed. The serving sizes were substantial and the food was delicious—they source their beef from local farmers and make all of their buns and sauces in-house. Our burgers (both “La Bacoa” with smoked bacon and a combination of cheeses) were cooked to perfection—still slightly pink on the inside—and served with their hand cut “patatas rusticas”. An epic indulgence!

Bar Pinotxo [Carrer la Rambla, 89] – One of the must-visit places along La Rambla is their famous market, la Boqueria, which is home to a variety of vendors serving everything you can imagine at a market: fresh produce, meat, baked goods, nuts, spices and fresh-squeezed juices on ice (there are multiple vendors in the market serving juice from nearly every fruit under the sun, even dragonfruit—and unsurprisingly they are delicious!). There’s also a restaurant inside, Bar Pinotxo, which serves delicious traditional dishes from a bar surrounded by stools. They don’t have a menu—they simply ask you whether you want meat or fish—then you get whatever is being freshly made that day right in the kitchen area behind the counter. My grasp of the language came in handy when we ordered here as the older gentleman serving us spoke only to us in Spanish. We were served “Garbanzos”, a savoury chickpea dish with garlic, pine nuts, and potatoes, and “Cocido de Carne”, a spicy beef stew. Flavourful, fresh and authentic food in the bustling environment of the market!

The three days we spent in Barcelona felt nowhere near long enough—there really is so much to see, do and enjoy. The cultural attractions, amazing architecture, beach right in the downtown and delicious food and drink paired with the cool, relaxed vibe of the locals is infectious. People really know how to live well here, and it shows. We positively can’t wait to get back!