Tales of the 'Tales'

Published 4:37 am, Tuesday, September 1, 2009

At the seventh annual Tales of the Cocktail, the massive spirits industry event held in New Orleans recently, there was a great deal of chatter about "educating" the consumer.

"In the end, it's about getting the liquor into people's mouths," said Antoinette Cattani, one of the "brand ambassadors" who participated in a panel discussion.

There seemed to be a special urgency this year about getting new, obscure or downright strange spirits into the mouths of the influential bartenders and mixologists who flock to the event. I don't know whether it's the economy or just a plateau, but last year the industry recorded its first sales dip in 13 years.

The first panel dealt with trends, moderated by Seattle-based mixologist Ryan Magarian. In spirits, the big trends continue to be new craft-distilled gins, mezcals and tequilas, and rye whiskey, of which Jim Meehan from the cutting-edge speakeasy PDT in New York said, "We can't keep it on the shelf."

There was talk of "bartender proactivity" in getting people to try new spirits. Magarian suggested how important it is for a spirit to have something he called an "equity delivery vehicle." Tequila, for instance, is fortunate to have the popular margarita as its equity delivery vehicle. Perhaps pisco and cachaca need better equity delivery vehicles to expand their appeal?

"What's new in fruits right now?" Magarian asked.

"In Europe, we're over fruit," said British bartender Simon Difford. There was talk of a movement to eliminate tedious muddling in high-volume bars. And it was agreed that grapefruit juice is still hugely popular.

Vodka was a recurring theme throughout the event. Audrey Saunders, owner of New York's famed Pegu Club and one of the leading figures in the mixology renaissance, told cocktail geeks to lighten up. "If someone wants a vodka drink, give 'em a vodka drink," Saunders said. "Who are we making drinks for? Are we fascists? Vodka tonics pay the rent. Don't make the customer feel guilty if she orders a Cosmo."

One of the first big tastings I attended was for Castries, a surprisingly good cream liqueur from St. Lucia made with peanuts and rum that has been on the market for a few years. Castries is imported by Washington entrepreneur Clyde Davis, who, with business partner David Jones, unveiled a new product -- a bright-pink hibiscus liqueur with the working title of Clarendon Roselle.

"We're coming in about a year before hibiscus is really in the consciousness," Jones said. "It's where pomegranate was in about 2003."

Several tasty new rums from Venezuela and Jamaica were on offer, too. Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey was sampling a unique rye with a hint of hickory extract.

Haus Alpenz was showing off Bonal, a new quinquina from France, and Cocchi Aperitivo Americano, sort of like a Lillet Blanc with more pronounced botanicals and quinine, a favorite of mine from Italy that until now has been unavailable in the United States.