Vitamin A fights ageing

Every week a new buzz word grips the beauty world, particularly in anti-ageing. One ingredient which has appeared in skincare formulas for some time, and which is often the subject of confusion, is vitamin A. Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin which has many important functions in the body.

It helps cells to reproduce, is essential for eye health and plays an important role in the immune system. It is also essential for maintaining and repairing skin tissue by promoting the building of new cells and fighting free radicals. Part of the confusion stems from the fact that some people believe vitamin A is just a topical treatment for acne, which can have side effects. This form of vitamin A is called tretinoin. It is an acid form of vitamin A which can only be obtained by prescription.

"Tretinoin cream was originally used to treat acne, and it is still used for comedonal acne, a form with many whiteheads and blackheads," says Dr Cathy Reid, honorary secretary of the Australasian College of Dermatologists. "But the first studies on sun-damaged skin were done by an American dermatologist more than 30 years ago. These showed that tretinoin, used as a cream, could also reverse some of the signs of ageing."

There are several tretinoin preparations available for anti-ageing, including Stieva-A, Retin-A and ReTrieve. They cost about $25 a tube, so are less expensive than some over-the-counter products. However, tretinoin isn't an anti-ageing panacea. "It can cause irritation, particularly to sensitive skin," Dr Reid says, "and if you use too much, or use it too often, you can get dermatitis.

"I recommend starting with a twice-weekly application at bedtime, using a pea-sized amount. Your skin will gradually develop a tolerance so you can slowly build up to a nightly application." Tretinoin also doesn't have any long-term, harmful side effects. "It can make you more sensitive to the sun, however, so daily application of sunscreen is recommended," Dr Reid says.

In over-the-counter products, vitamin A can appear in several guises. "All the natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A are included in a group known as the retinoids [see box, right]," says Dr Leslie Baumann, director of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute in the US.

"In studies, they have been shown to improve the appearance of stretch marks and improve skin discolouration." The amount of tretinoin in acne preparations is between 0.05 and 0.1 per cent, and in anti-ageing products it's usually 0.05 per cent. In over-the-counter products, the potency is usually considerably less, but that doesn't mean retinoids can't pack an anti-ageing punch.

"While prescription-strength retinoids are known to be successful in reversing and preventing the signs of ageing, over-the-counter products can be effective too," says Dr Baumann. "But they must be packaged in lightproof aluminium tubes in low-light conditions." Over-the-counter vitamin A products also appear to have fewer side effects than tretinoin. "They may be an excellent alternative for patients with sensitive skin," Dr Baumann says. "Vitamin A is also a useful additive in moisturisers."

If you choose an over-the-counter vitamin A product, try a sample before you buy, in case of irritation. "It is impossible to ascertain which products are manufactured and packaged properly by reading the label, so stick with reputable brands that you can trust," Dr Baumann says.

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