Exhibitors and visitors were feeling positive about the new season at the latest edition of The London Textile Fair, which took place at the Business Design Centre in Islington on January 22-23. The 285 exhibitors showcased spring 15 pre-collections and autumn 14 highlights. Pulling in 3,500 visitors, the halls were full of buying teams from brands and retailers as varied as Burberry, Asos and Marks & Spencer, as well as emerging designers and smaller concerns.

James Ellis, business development manager at occasionwear brand John Charles, said: “The date of the London show is ideal for us as we find [Paris show] Première Vision late. The atmosphere was a lot more upbeat than previous seasons and suppliers seemed to be happy with the turnout.”

Ellis singled out metallic textiles and romantic colours as his top trends and said he was impressed by the show’s increased size and the fact that most suppliers had 80% of their new collections ready.

A focus on ecological fabrics that do not compromise on style or cost was an emerging trend at the show. Portuguese firm Tintex’s Tencel fabric was among the most popular new materials, while Italy’s Angelo Vasino introduced a new polyester within its range of fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles.

Coats

As part of the 250-year-old Coats Group, Coats has traditionally supplied fabric to the consumer textile crafts industry.

However, business development and consumer events manager Sharon Brant says that from spring 15 it is looking to start providing its print fabrics to manufacturers, which is why it chose to exhibit at The London Textile Fair for the first time.

Standout pieces include an archive 1800s peony print from the V&A Museum and prints by designers including American fabric designers Amy Butler and Joel Dewberry. Based in the UK but with factories across the world, Coats’ thriving industrial division is, of course, a leading international supplier of thread and zips.

Konak Fashion Fabrics

Founded in 1963, Turkish mill Konak Fashion Fabrics exhibited at The London Textile Fair for the first time this season. Head of sales and marketing Serap Ulu said the decision to exhibit had paid off, with visits from Marks & Spencer, Asos, Reiss, Next, Topshop and River Island among others. For spring 15 Konak focuses on two-tone, 3D and bonded laces - whereby lace is bonded to a jacquard wool base - in a variety of tones and patterns. The company requires a minimum order of 1,000 metres, with prices starting at €2.50 (£2.06) per metre for a basic polyester.

Lace and Textiles

Summer collections are often packed with lace, so it took some innovation from lace specialist Lace and Textiles to stand out from the crowd. The Nottingham firm’s collection caught the eye of buyers thanks to its introduction of a new heat-treatment with a 3D pattern that resembled a modern take on traditional lace. Neon colours including hot pink and bright yellow were popular contrasted with crisp white, while perennial brocade and florals remained bestsellers.

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Jerse Örme

This Turkish mill has been trading since 1969 and its main area of expertise is the production of coarse circular-knit fabrics and the yarns used in those fabrics. The mill exhibited for the first time at the spring edition of The London Textile Fair, where it showed its autumn 14 and spring 15 ranges. Jerse Örme presented a colourful spring 15 collection with bright yellows, blues, greens, oranges and pinks with tribal, Parisian, and retro themes. It asks for a minimum order of 800 metres, with prices ranging from €2.50 (£2.06) to €15 (£12.30) per metre.

Tintex

Exhibiting here for the third time, Portuguese manufacturer Tintex said it had experienced its best show to date. “It’s been very busy. The quality of the customer has been incredibly strong and they’ve been placing orders,” said finishing department manager Elsa Parente. Tintex, which specialises in textiles with an ecological approach, saw growing interest in its Tencel fabric, which uses the performance fibre sourced from wood pulp. Buyers favoured this season’s printed styles, which included a subtle polka dot and reptilian patterns.

O Jersey

Italian jersey specialist O Jersey attracted buyers from brands such as Burberry and Jaeger on its debut at The London Textile Fair. Represented by agent Wheeler Hickson in the UK, O Jersey’s most popular options from its spring 15 collection use burnt-out effects, creating a worn-in, semi-sheer design. Bonded double-faced jerseys featuring knit layers and boiled wool were also big sellers at the show, while flocked styles that were big for autumn 14 continue into spring.

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Exhibitors reported mixed results at the autumn 19 edition of the London Textile Fair, as market concerns and nervousness were offset by the presence of good-quality buyers and a strong British showing.

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