Returning from the unexplored forests and vast trackless
swamps that clothe
Papua New Guinea, Alfred Russel Wallace described the ‘wonderful
productions of nature’ he had discovered to the Zoological Society of
London in 1862. He reported that the birds ‘displayed that exquisite
beauty and marvellous development of plumage, calculated to excite
admiration and astonishment among the most civilised and intellectual races
of man’.

Today we are bombarded with countless images of visually
stunning birds. Among the shiny metallic pheasants, paintbox-coloured
parrots and glistening hummingbirds, one
family stands out: the Birds of
Paradise.
It was not surprising, therefore, that customers visiting our stand
at the Birdfair voted Papua New Guinea as their
number one dream destination.

We have cherry picked some exciting places with superb birds
close by, making this trip a memorable holiday and not an extreme
expedition. We take short flights (some by private charter) to remote, but
very good quality lodges that even have birds of paradise visiting their
gardens! We can also witness the tribal cultures that fascinated the likes
of Wallace and Attenborough. We can visit the famous Huli tribe and see how
they used to make their amazing head-dresses; or the mudmen whose masks are
the most fearsome of all. Some of our guides can tell you about the days
when their fathers waged war and ate their enemies, but don’t worry, this
was in the 1950’s. On our recce, we found the people charming, we never saw
a leech nor many mosquitoes, the accommodation was first class and Homo
sapiens was not on any menu we looked at!

We will begin our trip in Port Moresby where we will
look for the Raggiana Bird of Paradise in Varirata
National Park. From here, we will fly to Mount Hagen, home of the
Sicklebills and Superb Bird of Paradise. Our private plane will take us to a
beautiful lodge at Karawari in the Sepik River Region, where we will explore
the area from the comfort of our own boat. The next hop is to Ambua in the
Southern Highlands, before a final night’s rest at Loloata Island. There is
also a chance to extend your tour by joining us in Bali, Java, Flores and
Komodo Island.

ITINERARY

PORT MORESBY

Our flight arrives at the capital of Papua New Guinea. We have two
nights to recharge our batteries, but there are great things to see. A visit
to the university campus should yield the cryptic Papuan Frogmouth, while a
wide variety of Australian wetland species include Comb-crested Jacana, Radjah
Shelduck, Dusky Moorhen, Spotted Whistling Ducks, Australian Ibis, Masked
Lapwing and Australasian Grebe. A day at VarirataNational Park
gives us the chance to see displaying Raggiana Bird of Paradise, perhaps the
most iconic bird of their family. The Barred Owlet Nightjar roosts in hollow
branches, Papuan Needletails fly overhead and a Paradise Kingfisher may dart
by. The Hooded Pitohui can also be found here. The recent discovery that it
has evolved poisonous skin and feathers that are able to kill creatures the
size of a mouse underlines just how otherworldly this place is.

MOUNT HAGEN, CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

A short flight takes us to Mount Hagen, capital of the
Central Highlands. Here we spend three nights at Kumul Lodge. The gardens and
surrounding forest is well known for attracting birds of paradise like the
amazing Blue Bird of Paradise and the Superb Bird of Paradise. The chest of
the latter opens to show a dazzling electric blue shield that draws in the sun
like a magnet. The less gaudy Brown and Black Sicklebills are of the same
family, their long bills and extravagant tails making up for their lack of
colour. Papuan Flowerpeckers, together with Ornate and Rufous-sided
Honey-eaters, gather nectar from flowering shrubs. Papuan Parrotfinch may drop
in, and we could also see the delightful White-shouldered Fairy-wren.

We can visit the Asaro Mudmen who are actually perfectly nice
when they remove their terrifying masks. Legend has it that, having fled their
enemy by diving into the Asaro River, they emerged
covered in pale mud, resembling evil spirits. Their enemy retreated and the
tribe retained this appearance to keep them at bay.

KARAWARI, SEPIK RIVER REGION

On day seven, we will take a private plane to the Sepik River. We will explore
the area by comfortable boat. Each bend of the river reveals something new.
Yellow-billed, Sacred and Azure Kingfishers sit by the banks while the larger
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra watches from higher in the trees. We can expect
other waterbirds such as Great-billed Heron, Little Pied Cormorant and
Oriental Darter, as well as raptors like Whistling Kite and White-bellied
Sea-eagle. Perhaps a Shining Flycatcher, Island Leaf Warbler, Rusty Pitohui,
Brown Oriole or Singing Starling will put in an appearance too.

In the evening, starlings, mynahs, fruit doves and parrots
fly to roost. The massive blue-black Palm Cockatoos dwarf the Papuan and
Rainbow Lorikeets, Eclectus Parrots and Dusky Lorys. If you thought pigeons
were boring then you have never seen a Victoria Crowned Pigeon. These big
powder-blue birds patrol the forest floor like turkeys. Above them perch yet
more birds of paradise. The Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise shuffles up and down
a vertical twig, waving its 12 feather ‘wires’ in the face of any female that
joins him. The elusive King Bird of Paradise waves two green-blobbed spatule-shaped
feathers over its red and gold head while climbing up a vine and waggling its
undertail. After three nights here, our pilot returns to take us on another
brief hop over the mountains to the Tari Gap.

AMBUA, SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS

Ambua Lodge nestles in a hot bed of biodiversity most easily
accessed at Tari Gap. The area is synonymous with birds of paradise. The
beautiful gardens here hold many different species that include Short-tailed
Paradigalla, Lawe’s Parotia, and Loria’s and Crested Satinbirds. When trees
are fruiting, they are visited by figbirds, butcherbirds, cuckoo-shrikes,
gerygones and berrypeckers. The well-kept flowerbeds encourage Belford’s and
Yellow-browed Melidectes to linger.

A trip over Tari Gap allows us to search for shyer forest
birds like Garnet Robin, Smokey Honeyeater, Red-collared Myzomela and Papuan
Scrubwren. Continuing higher, the forest opens to reveal an alpine-like
habitat. There are fewer birds here, but scenically it is very impressive.
Patches of scrub house the bowers of Macgregor’s Bowerbirds. Blue Bird of
Paradise, Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia or the King-of-Saxony could be a
contender for bird of the trip. The latter has amazing eyebrow attachments so
long that they frequently get them tangled on tree branches. The Ribbon-tailed
Astrapia has the longest tail for its size, of any bird.

We will not ignore the cultural heritage of this incredibly
diverse country. The Huli tribe own the land here and have a fascinating
culture. It takes two years for a wigman to grow and decorate an extravagant
wig. With their necks protected by the skull of a hornbill and a purse made
from a cassowary thighbone, the men paint their faces red and yellow before
crowning themselves with the most beautiful plumes. Their dances or Sing Sings
are a form of respectful greeting and not a war dance, as films would have you
believe.

LOLOATA ISLAND

After our time in the swamps and forests, we return to Port Moresby to relax at
Loloata Island. A night by the Pacific allows us to catch up with some of the
common birds we have missed, perhaps a Friendly Fantail, Willie Wagtail, New
Guinea White-eye or Varied Triller. The next day we will fly back to the UK.

Our tour to Bali,
Java, Flores and Komodo immediately follows the Papua New Guinea tour. It is
possible to join it for a one week or two week birding extension.
Alternatively, you can extend your trip by spending a few days longer at
Loloata Island or relaxing in Bali.

CLIMATE AND PACE

It will be hot and humid
at lower elevations. In the highlands it is cool but pleasant, with a chance
of showers at any time. Most days we will make an early start but have a break
in the early afternoon, when the temperature is at its highest and the birds
are rather quiet. The birding sites are normally close to the lodges, so
travelling is kept to a minimum. Basic fitness is all that is required and the
pace will be sensible. Much of the birding will be on good trails (with some
uphills) and by boat. However, in order to see some of the birds of paradise
it is necessary to leave the trail.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD

Full-board accommodation
is provided, with two nights at Raintree Lodge, Port Moresby, three nights at
Kumul Lodge, Mount Hagen, three nights at Karawari Lodge, Sepik River, four
nights at Ambua Lodge, Southern Highlands and one night at Loloata Resort. All
offer good quality accommodation with en suite facilities and good food. Lunch
will normally be at the lodge but occasionally we will take a packed lunch.

PRICE INCLUDES …..

All birdwatching
excursions with expert leader and local guides, full-board accommodation
(starting with lunch on 19th, ending with breakfast on 1st),
soft drinks at meal times, bottled water throughout, local transport by
mini-bus, boat trips, reserve entrance fees, cultural visits as mentioned
above, all internal flights and international flights.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED

Travel insurance. Personal items, alcoholic drinks, laundry.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

Flights from London
Heathrow to Port Moresby (via Singapore), using the scheduled services of
Singapore Airlines and Air Niugini. Outbound flight departs mid-evening,
return arrives back early morning. It is also possible to fly from Manchester and
other UK airports.