Only valid for active forum users. Active means at least 30 postings within the last 30 days (no spam postings). This will automatically being checked at www.starbike.com shopping basket so make sure that you are logged in at the WW board!If there does not appear a WW discount position when you check out you do not have enough postings!

I've just purchased a used CX bike for the winter. The Sora 9 speed is lightly used but the chainset is too big for me. My friend has a 105 5800 11 speed knocking around I can have for mates rates - will it work with the 9 speed chain?

9, 10 and 11-speed chains all have the same internal width. It's the thickness of plates and pin length that changes. Maybe 8-speed as well but I don't have one around to measure, but I do know that a 9-speed chain works very well with 7-8 speed sprockets and cranks.

So, yes it will work.

And I'd agree that when it comes time for a new chain a 10-speed will probably shift better.

There's sometimes a buggy.How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

You should be using an 11 speed chain with an 11 speed chainset. The external width also matters when it comes to chain rub and pick up pins. But then you run into the issue that the FD may or may not play nice with the new narrower chain, especially if you have the new long arm FDs which may be at their adjustment limits even if the stock equipment.

2lo8 wrote:You should be using an 11 speed chain with an 11 speed chainset. The external width also matters when it comes to chain rub and pick up pins. But then you run into the issue that the FD may or may not play nice with the new narrower chain, especially if you have the new long arm FDs which may be at their adjustment limits even if the stock equipment.

2lo8 is right and goodboyr is right. Sometimes using an 9 speed chain on an 11 speed chainset can cause issues (minor ones in general). Using an 11 speed chain my cause some rear shifting issues and front shifting issues as well.

The best compromise is a 10 speed chain that way you should encounter no issues.

2lo8 wrote:You should be using an 11 speed chain with an 11 speed chainset. The external width also matters when it comes to chain rub and pick up pins. But then you run into the issue that the FD may or may not play nice with the new narrower chain, especially if you have the new long arm FDs which may be at their adjustment limits even if the stock equipment.

Nope......

Yes.

I play around with lots of unorthodox combinations. Mismatched parts may work fine, but certain kinds of combinations tend to be more problematic than others. Chainsets usually work best when paired with the chains and FDs they're designed for. Chainring spacing, ramps and pins are designed for certain chains. Cassettes are much more tolerant of a chain being too narrow because the external dimensions really don't matter since there aren't pick up pins. The tooth shaping and ramps on cassettes have more to do with the internal dimensions of the chain, giving room for the chain to flex or to catch the inside of a plate. The RD also moves the chain using the internal part of the chain.

Spacing isn't the only thing that matters. Chainring spacing can be increased if there's a ramp/bridge to guide the chain down to the small ring without skating. Using a wider chain than specified usually means chain rub in the form of the pins trying to pick up or rubbing the chain in cross chain combinations. Some pins are engineered not to just have the chain rest on them, but hook an outer plate. Generally they are engineered to minimize chain rub, but maximize chain retention. It's a balancing act which is why they work best with the chains they were designed for. I believe that chain flexibility plays some role in the designing of shift features as well. It's not that they're entirely incompatible, which I never said, but there are sometimes issues. Usually you can run then +/-1 chain speed in the front with minor or no issues, and at least +2/-0 in the back with no issues. My opinion is if you want no problems, you should run the front as close to designed as possible (and I don't on multiple bikes for various reasons, and shifting suffers for it). Too narrow a chain rarely presents a problem in the rear.