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VOS - I have a remote control problem. Background. Have a HR24 in living room and HR22 upstairs. Friday had a HR34 installed beside the 24. All 3 are MRV'd and a SWM16 was installed when 34 put in. All receivers and MRV is working great and I am keeping the 24 for awhile to watch recorded programs (and make sure the 34 is working properly).I now have 3 remotes configured for the 24 and 34 (I don't know how) as follows:1. RC65 - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 24, via HDMI, to TV.2. RC64R - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 34, via HDMI to TV.3. RC65RX - turns on LGTV.What I would like is for 2 of the remotes to just control the 34 and TV and 1 remote control just the 24 and TV.As an aside, I have to use the TV remote to change HDMI inputs between the 34 and 24, but thats no problem. Would just like to get the remote problem resolved before my "better half" figures out there is a problem :-]Tks for any assistance.

This seems like it should be fairly easy:2 remotes have RF, and one doesn't.Changing the HR34 remote setup to RF, with either RC64R[x], by following the on screen steps/prompts. Copy these while going through them, and then do the same steps to the other remote [you don't need to be on the same screen in the HR34, because it was set the first time, so you're simply setting the remote to match the second time].Leave the RC65 alone as it only has IR, and leave the HR24 alone so it stays in IR.

Did as instructed above on the 65 and 65RX. When I hit select after inputting the receiver nr's, there was a "boink". Now they both just control only the on/off of the TV and neither receiver. I must be missing something somewhere and am 71 so maybe that has something to do with it. Am "saving" the RC64R as that is the only remote that I can do anything with (34 and 24 and TV).

Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

Did as instructed above on the 65 and 65RX. When I hit select after inputting the receiver nr's, there was a "boink". Now they both just control only the on/off of the TV and neither receiver. I must be missing something somewhere and am 71 so maybe that has something to do with it. Am "saving" the RC64R as that is the only remote that I can do anything with (34 and 24 and TV).

The RC65 is an IR only remote, so don't try to program it for RF.This is the one that should stay with the 24.

The RC65RX [as the RC64R is too] has the option of using RF.Not sure where you are now, in programing the HR34 & HR24 and your remotes.If you can't control the DVR, use the front panel buttons to navigate to the setup menu and then to remote menu.The options should be either change to RF [it is still in IR mode] or change to IR [it's in RF mode]

Once you figure out which mode the receiver is in,select the right steps here to program the remote:

[for RF]1. dtv <-slider at the top above the power button2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks3. enter 0 0 0 0 14. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks5. enter 9 6 16. press CH UP7. enter the last 6 digits of the receivers ID #, found on a sticker in the access card compartment8. press SELECT

You've programed the HR24 for RF it seems and the RC65 doesn't support that.Use the front panel controls to reprogram "the receiver" back to IR.Now the RC65 should control the HR24. Set the RC65 remote DOWN and leave it alone.

Move to the HR34. Does the RC64R control it?If so, set the RC64R aside for the moment and pick up the RC65RX.Follow these steps on "just the remote" [don't do anything to the HR34 receiver]1. dtv2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks3. enter 0 0 0 0 14. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks5. enter 9 6 16. press CH UP7. enter the last 6 digits of the receivers ID #, found on a sticker in the access card compartment8. press SELECT

OK. Got the 65 to control the 24 (chnl down did it). Only problem left is that when I Hit the off button on either the 65 or 64R, both receivers turn off. When I hit the on button both receivers turn on. Is there any way to fix this?
And thanks for bearing with me VOS. You must have been JOB in another life.

Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

OK. Got the 65 to control the 24 (chnl down did it). Only problem left is that when I Hit the off button on either the 65 or 64R, both receivers turn off. When I hit the on button both receivers turn on. Is there any way to fix this?And thanks for bearing with me VOS. You must have been JOB in another life.

Now it sounds like you have both DVRs set to IR.Leave the RC65 & the HR24 alone.

Does the RC64R besides turning on the HR34, also control the other functions?If so go into it's menu again and change both the receiver and the RC64R to RF, by [this time] following the on screen steps.

It just dawned on me [DUH]When you have both DVRs set to IR, "and then" you try to change the HR34 to RF, without blocking the IR pickup on the HR24, you're changing both DVRs.

On the HR24 just to the right of the power/DirecTV logo, is the IR eye/detector. You'll need to block/mask this before trying to change the HR34 to RF.

That was the ticket. It's just working on the 34 now. Tks VOS (JOB). You have been very, very helpful.

I was slow of the uptake since I don't start with more than one receiver in IR mode. The first thing I do is change to RF, so when the next receiver needs setting up, it's the only one in IR mode. [DUH]

I just had a HR34 installed yesterday and was converted to SWM in the process. I also have (2) HR20-700s (9 tuners total) so I have a SWM16. Everything seems to work but I'm not sure if it's hooked up "right". I don't have a good diagramming tool to show the setup so please bare with me while I try to describe how things are connected. (BTW, what do you guys use for a diagramming tool?)

1. I have 4 cables coming from the LNB connected to the bottom left 4 ports of the SWM16.

2. On the power inserter -the "power to swm" port is connected to the "swm1/pwr" port of the swm16 and the "signal to IRD" port to is connected to the input of a 1x4 splitter.

3. The "swm2" port on the swm16 is connected directly to the HR34.

4. On the 1x4 splitter - 2 ports are connected to the HR20s (with a DECA) and 1 port is connected to a broadband DECA which is connected to my router via Cat5e and the 4th port is not used.

I have looked at several diagrams and don't recall DVRs being connected directly to the swm. Is there a "better" way to connect my 3 DVRs or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for your help.

I just had a HR34 installed yesterday and was converted to SWM in the process. I also have (2) HR20-700s (9 tuners total) so I have a SWM16. Everything seems to work but I'm not sure if it's hooked up "right". I don't have a good diagramming tool to show the setup so please bare with me while I try to describe how things are connected. (BTW, what do you guys use for a diagramming tool?)

1. I have 4 cables coming from the LNB connected to the bottom left 4 ports of the SWM16.

2. On the power inserter -the "power to swm" port is connected to the "swm1/pwr" port of the swm16 and the "signal to IRD" port to is connected to the input of a 1x4 splitter.

3. The "swm2" port on the swm16 is connected directly to the HR34.

4. On the 1x4 splitter - 2 ports are connected to the HR20s (with a DECA) and 1 port is connected to a broadband DECA which is connected to my router via Cat5e and the 4th port is not used.

I have looked at several diagrams and don't recall DVRs being connected directly to the swm. Is there a "better" way to connect my 3 DVRs or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for your help.

Jay

four coax is how it's done.

"If there was" something to check/change it would be the distance of the coax between the PI and the SWiM. This might need to be 15'. Another way is to move the PI to the PWR port [between the two SWiM ports], and connect the splitter to SWiM1

HR34 straight to SWiM2 is fine.

4-way splitter is fine and gives you the three outputs you need. Make sure the forth has a termination.

What you have works, and I might swap the PI around, but if it had the 15' of coax, I might not too, as the difference isn't much, if anything.

"If there was" something to check/change it would be the distance of the coax between the PI and the SWiM. This might need to be 15'. Another way is to move the PI to the PWR port [between the two SWiM ports], and connect the splitter to SWiM1

What you have works, and I might swap the PI around, but if it had the 15' of coax, I might not too, as the difference isn't much, if anything.

Thanks VOS. Since the coax between the PI and the SWiM was very short I switched the cables as you suggested and everything seems to work ok. There is now nothing connected to the "signal to IRD" port on the PI. Does this need to be terminated?

I have one other question. I have a nearby ethernet switch to both the wiring closet where the SWiM is and the location of my HR34. Would you recommend using my current internet config (using the broadband DECA) or connecting to the internet with my HR34 used as a bridge and disconnecting the BB DECA. Thanks again.

Thanks VOS. Since the coax between the PI and the SWiM was very short I switched the cables as you suggested and everything seems to work ok. There is now nothing connected to the "signal to IRD" port on the PI. Does this need to be terminated?

I have one other question. I have a nearby ethernet switch to both the wiring closet where the SWiM is and the location of my HR34. Would you recommend using my current internet config (using the broadband DECA) or connecting to the internet with my HR34 used as a bridge and disconnecting the BB DECA. Thanks again.

Jay

The PI question is easy, since it's now connected to a DC [only] connector, the IRD port doesn't matter if it's terminated, since there isn't any RF.Your other question isn't as easy. I would tend to leave/keep the BB DECA, but my reasoning really isn't, but instead more of an unsupportable preference.Some HR34s have had problems being the bridge, while others haven't, and using it as one is a supported method.

The PI question is easy, since it's now connected to a DC [only] connector, the IRD port doesn't matter if it's terminated, since there isn't any RF.Your other question isn't as easy. I would tend to leave/keep the BB DECA, but my reasoning really isn't, but instead more of an unsupportable preference.Some HR34s have had problems being the bridge, while others haven't, and using it as one is a supported method.

I was working on a friend's setup, and noticed something I "think" is different (or at least different than I'm remembering it )

Under the SWM signal strengths screen I'm seeing a DVR use two SWM channels always. For example; the setup contained two HR's and an H receiver. When viewing the SWM signal strengths screen from only the "H" receiver there are four "0's" shown (two per DVR.) This is without the DVR's recording or in doubleplay.

I've also tested this on my setup, and verified that regardless of the time of day the DVR's are always "grabbing" two channels (initially I thought they might just be downloading a D* "push".) Has that always been the case? I thought I remembered having to record, or utilize doubleplay to have a DVR grab that 2nd channel in the signal strength screen.

I was working on a friend's setup, and noticed something I "think" is different (or at least different than I'm remembering it )

Under the SWM signal strengths screen I'm seeing a DVR use two SWM channels always. For example; the setup contained two HR's and an H receiver. When viewing the SWM signal strengths screen from only the "H" receiver there are four "0's" shown (two per DVR.) This is without the DVR's recording or in doubleplay.

I've also tested this on my setup, and verified that regardless of the time of day the DVR's are always "grabbing" two channels (initially I thought they might just be downloading a D* "push".) Has that always been the case? I thought I remembered having to record, or utilize doubleplay to have a DVR grab that 2nd channel in the signal strength screen.

What you're seeing has been there for a long time.They may not always show the two zeros after a reset, but they always seem to be consecutive channels, so the DVR must be telling the SWiM it wants two and the SWiM assigns two, unless of course the DVR is in single tuner mode.

What you're seeing has been there for a long time.They may not always show the two zeros after a reset, but they always seem to be consecutive channels, so the DVR must be telling the SWiM it wants two and the SWiM assigns two, unless of course the DVR is in single tuner mode.

Good to know. I did notice that neither setup's DVR's had consecutive channels though. DVR A would have 2 and 4, DVR B would be 3 and 5, etc...

VOS, you may have just answered this above, but I am getting old and may not have followed it correctly.

My new HR34 was installed yesterday and they included the SWiM16 and new LNB. They left my 8way splitter and everything including MRV and Internet works fine on all three HR-DVR's.

The power supply for the SWiM16 is coming into the same connector that the HR34 is connected to, and not into the center connecter on the SWiM16 that is marked power. The cable run (HR34-powersupply-SWiM16) is very short (4 feet to the HR34 and maybe 6 feet to the SWiM16). Is this something to be concerned about?

VOS, you may have just answered this above, but I am getting old and may not have followed it correctly.

My new HR34 was installed yesterday and they included the SWiM16 and new LNB. They left my 8way splitter and everything including MRV and Internet works fine on all three HR-DVR's.

The power supply for the SWiM16 is coming into the same connector that the HR34 is connected to, and not into the center connecter on the SWiM16 that is marked power. The cable run (HR34-powersupply-SWiM16) is very short (4 feet to the HR34 and maybe 6 feet to the SWiM16). Is this something to be concerned about?

So the HR34 is connected to SWM #1, which also can/does power the SWiM-16."If it ain't broke", I would leave it alone, but with the PI close to the SWiM & HR34, I wouldn't have set it up this way. With the SWM8 & HR24, these short distances have caused problems, but they haven't been "everybody will have problems".

First, thank you for taking time in answering so many questions for those of us on this forum!

My problem is with Whole-Home service.

Today, I had my system upgraded to an HR34, moving an HR22 to another room, and de-activating an HR20.

The tech installed a new LNB (from a 5 LNB to a single 3 LNB one), added a SWiM16, re-peaked the dish and connected the 4 cables from the dish to the SWiM16. One of the two coax cables used by the HR22 carries only the PI (laying behind the unit on the floor) to the SWiM16 middle power input (about 30 feet of cable). The other carries the signal from the SWiM2 output off the SWiM16 back to the HR22. That cable is hooked up to a white DECA box which is hooked to the #1 input on the back of the HR22. All three led's are green on the DECA box. The HR34 uses one coax cable from the SWiM1 output off the SWiM16 (about 90 feet) to the back of the unit.

When I go to 'status' under Whole-Home, it shows authorized but also says 'no networked DVRs found'. I have been on the phone multiple times with tech support. Have re-started the receivers many times, did a complete reset on both and still have this problem. I even cancelled the Whole House service and later had it turned back on. I have no internet connected to either receiver. There are recordings in both DVR's. They are set properly to allow access, share, etc.

I do have the wireless CCK, and earlier did have the internet hooked up. The CCK was hooked up to the HR22 going through the DECA box and VOD was active on both receivers. They both still said 'no networked DVRs found' with the CCK in place. Tech support said to remove it to rule out any possible interference.

Everything else works great. All DVR's record (my wife had 4 channels recording at one time on 'her' HR34). So, do you have any ideas as to what the problem is?

First, thank you for taking time in answering so many questions for those of us on this forum!

My problem is with Whole-Home service.

Today, I had my system upgraded to an HR34, moving an HR22 to another room, and de-activating an HR20.

The tech installed a new LNB (from a 5 LNB to a single 3 LNB one), added a SWiM16, re-peaked the dish and connected the 4 cables from the dish to the SWiM16. One of the two coax cables used by the HR22 carries only the PI (laying behind the unit on the floor) to the SWiM16 middle power input (about 30 feet of cable). The other carries the signal from the SWiM2 output off the SWiM16 back to the HR22. That cable is hooked up to a white DECA box which is hooked to the #1 input on the back of the HR22. All three led's are green on the DECA box. The HR34 uses one coax cable from the SWiM1 output off the SWiM16 (about 90 feet) to the back of the unit.

When I go to 'status' under Whole-Home, it shows authorized but also says 'no networked DVRs found'. I have been on the phone multiple times with tech support. Have re-started the receivers many times, did a complete reset on both and still have this problem. I even cancelled the Whole House service and later had it turned back on. I have no internet connected to either receiver. There are recordings in both DVR's. They are set properly to allow access, share, etc.

I do have the wireless CCK, and earlier did have the internet hooked up. The CCK was hooked up to the HR22 going through the DECA box and VOD was active on both receivers. They both still said 'no networked DVRs found' with the CCK in place. Tech support said to remove it to rule out any possible interference.

Everything else works great. All DVR's record (my wife had 4 channels recording at one time on 'her' HR34). So, do you have any ideas as to what the problem is?

You need to check the IP addresses for one thing, since you have mixed with and without the CCK.With it, the IPs should be coming from the router, but without the CCK, they be the 169.xxx internal ones. These take longer to find other receivers than the one controlled by your router.Which ever way you have it set now, you might reset the network defaults and reboot each receiver.