If it's just two years old... it MIHGT be possible it had developed chronic spideritis... this would possibly make it unbalanced, and it would not spin... also if there's much water left when spin should start, it will cause a lot of drag... drain blockage can cause this. Yet one other thing, if the door switch/lock assembly is cranky, it won't spin... plenty of various problems with this type of washer, and remedies to them, are explained here: http://applianceguru.com/forum2/834.html

____________________"There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home."
- Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977)

Thanks for the reply. We have disassembled the hoses and the drain....no clog there and you can here water being pumped out when drain cycle is started. Fairly sure that is working correctly.

We've also tested the door switch/lock and it appears to be working correctly.

Could the problem be with the timer board? I'm just trying to figure out why the washer powers off at a certain point. Is it in fact related to the no spinning thing? Or is there something more catastrophic going on. Our gut instinct is that it's an electrical issue (husband is an electrical (electronics engineer)) but can't find a source. He's tested just about everything electrical.

For the spider thing, you can check by grabbing the drum by two baffles and yanking sideways and up/down... should be very snug to the outer tub, if there is an "oil-canning" noise, it can indicate something being loose there... although this isn't a 100% sure check, the outer tub suspension could make similar noises.

____________________"There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home."
- Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977)

Okay, we check and the tub is a snug as a bug in a rug. No spider thingie? He also checked the springs and shocks. There's one shoch absorber that looks as though it may have a leak. Could that prevent the spin cycle from even starting? Or would it just cause an already started spin to go off balance? We get no errors or warnings at all.

In regards to the timer board, does anyone have a procedure to test it?

Then I guess the spider is OK so far... if you found a shock that doesn't look good, might be the culprit.

If you found your tech sheet inside the machine, and it has no test procedures for the control unit, then I bet the only sure way is to get a new one from RCC and try it... they will refund it if it doesn't solve your problem.

I got no direct RCC results with the model number, but www3.sears.com listed part no 134523102 for the control unit, which routes to this part on RCC:

I have a Kenmore model 417.44092500 about two years old and have similar problems as the above mentioned. The washer will not spin out on high. It gets to about 7 minutes left and turns off. I have taken the back cover and front cover off to look at things. I did replaced the control board thinking and hoping this was the culprit---wrong-- it still does it. There is no black stuff coming out of where the bearing is. The SS drum spins freely and there is a lot of play. I was thinking that this SS drum used to pretty tight. The spider arms appear to be OK-there is a small amount of oil or grease on one of them at the bottom nothing excessive. I do not remember it making any unusual loud noises before this happened. It has always sounded like a jet taking off when it gets to the high spin and has always been a pain to keep balanced. Do i need to start taking apart to see where the problem is? The bearing appears to be tight. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

that motor board called the speed control unit(SCU) to save me typing has one plug with no clip, check and double check it is tight and centered, its problematic

also alot of those machines have a wiring harness leading to that board routed in a bad place... with back off, pull tub towards board and watch where it hits the board, you will probably find wires in that spot, checkl those wires and you might find some are cut,broken or crushed, if so cut out damaged portion and reconnect then route wires where the tub cant hit them

also the pump wires are very thin and bad connection on them causes loss of spin

i dont change many of those elec control modules

____________________The only stupid question is the one not asked
hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here

I have spent the entire evening trying to figure this out. I have examined
all of the wires. Wiggled the wiring harness, taken the control board off,
taken the hoses off the pump to make sure it was clear, etc. I cannot see
where the drum is contacting any of the wires. There is a circuit board
next to the motor that I could not examine very well unless I take the side
off. Would this be an area of concern? It continues to shut off at 7
minutes and then it beeps 3 times. The manual says three beeps is an
error> drum overfilled; causes possibilities: inlet valve, pressure switch
or control board failure. Not sure where the pressure switch is located.
There is no water in the drum, there is no water in the pump area since I
did take the hoses off. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

OK I'll answer my own question. I had the sears repairman test things out. It was the pressure switch. It is located in the upper right section under the top. in is protected by a round black plastic housing. $113.00 including the repairman charges.

Wrong again. The pressure switch was not it. I put it on and the thing still shuts off at 7 minutes. Called the Sears repair center and they sent out the repairman again. this time the door latch was culprit. After two months without my washing machine finally fixed. Sears would not allow me to return the $137.00 + shipping control board, but i did get a gift card for my troubles.

I am having the same problem with my kenmore 41744092500 washer. when u say it is the door latch do u mean it is the electrical box behind the frame that the door latch goes into? Any advice would help. Mine has an error code of E47, door not closed.