Friday, July 28, 2017

Another Look at Stratford’s Stellar Revival House & The Belfry

BY BRYAN
LAVERY

The
once-celebrated Church Restaurant, previously Mackenzie Memorial Gospel Church,
is now Revival House. The inspired and ambitious revitalization of the former
grand dame of Stratford’s culinary scene took restaurateurs Rob and Candice
Wigan just over seven months to complete.

The location
and the building’s architectural features and spacious interior inspired its
original transformation. The property remains one of Ontario’s finest instances
of the conversion of a historic property into a hospitality venue done with
integrity and respect for the cultural heritage.

Revival
House is the Wigans’ second restaurant rejuvenation in Stratford. The couple
purchased Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub in 2008 and put their own unique stamp on
every aspect of that business.

The
beautifully restored Revival House is decorated in a mix of wood, exposed brick,
light walls, gold railings, and ecclesiastical purple accents and banquettes.
Ornamenting the bright interior are original light fixtures and stained glass
windows. The dark-wood organ pipes provide a striking backdrop for the stunning
curved bar that is crowned with a theatrical copper chandelier that was built
by former Stratford Festival prop maker Frank Holt. The main room, known as
Sanctuary, has the elegance and simple beauty that comes with restrained taste.
The room’s former elevated altar can easily be transformed into a stage or
dining area because of the modular furnishings.

In contrast
the upstairs gastro-lounge The Belfry, a 65-seat venue, delivers an ambience
that has been described as “exotic modern” with peacock blues, a vaulted
ceiling and a working copper fireplace that draws inspiration from the
downstairs chandelier. The Belfry is welcoming and chic. Snuggled in the former
organ loft overlooking the Sanctuary, Confession is the most intimate of the
trio of spaces.

The
backstory of the Church Restaurant involves former Stratford Festival artistic
director Robin Phillips. He was hired in 1975 and spent six years directing
many productions, cultivating fresh talent and reinvigorating the Festival.
Phillips’ first season coincided with the opening of what would become the
landmark Church Restaurant, by his partner, restaurateur Joe Mandel. Of note
also is the fact that The Stratford Chefs School started in the kitchens back
in 1983. The restaurant would later be sold to and operated by Mark Craft.

I worked at
The Church Restaurant when it was in its prime, in the mid-1980s. During those
years Maggie Smith and her husband playwright Beverly Cross, like many
well-known thespians and celebrities, dined at The Church. They were among the
crowd of late night habitués who frequented The Belfry, which was The Church’s
upstairs room and a popular pre- and post-theatre destination. The Belfry was
the bastion of hospitality and completed many a visitor’s Stratford theatre
experience.

The Wigans
met and befriended Joe Mandel, who provided historical context to The
Church’s early days, which in turn has reinforced their vision. Candice
explains that they have revived some of the traditions that made The Church
such a popular hotspot in its heyday. Unlike its seasonal predecessor, The
Belfry remains open for the winter months, offering a menu expressing the depth
of Perth County’s food culture. Since opening, its menus have revealed a
passion for using local and sustainable ingredients, showcasing nose-to-tail
cuisine and the best of what Ontario has to offer.

Loreena
Miller and her culinary team have brought French country cuisine back to The
Belfry. Chef Miller explains that she shares a love for maple, duck fat and
everything delicious and sinful that underpins French country cooking with
Candice, whose maternal heritage originates in Quebec.

Miller
worked alongside previous chefs at Revival House, and her progression to head
chef is the natural evolution. Joining Miller in the kitchen is Andrew McLean,
known for his tenure at Rundles as sommelier and head waiter.

The
restaurant is known for its antipasto and charcuterie, which I have tasted on
several occasions. On one visit the charcuterie board included house-cured lamb
ham, duck prosciutto, wild boar rillettes, smoked trout rillettes, speck (smoked
pork leg) and lonza (cured pork loin). We sampled Miller’s potted chicken
liver, a hearty mousse with pickled rhubarb and black pepper jam. There was a
seminal gazpacho of tomato embellished with tomato gel, aioli and smoked
paprika, and a delicate seared whitefish on warm Loco Field organic greens with
grilled polenta which made a perfect repast.

Revival
House is a sought-after venue for celebrations, conferences and weddings. Music
continues to be an essential part of the programs and Revival House is home to
the Stratford Summer Music’s cabaret and opera series. The staff hosted 22
weddings last year and events manager Alysha Ford has 23 weddings booked for
this year.

There is a
stunning 48-seat garden terrace beside the Brunswick Street entrance. High Tea
and Sunday Brunch add yet another layer of temptation to the offerings.

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Ontario Culinary Tourist

I am a
writer, culinary columnist and food and social media editor in London and
Toronto, Ontario. A chef, former restaurateur and hospitality consultant with
over thirty years in the industry, my work has appeared in a variety of print
and on-line publications. I also freelance written editorial and visual content
for tourism and corporate clients.