Description

The Piz Pordoi in the broad peak that is easily distinguished by the black water steaks running down the north-west face. This is a large face that contains some long and enjoyable routes. Due to the length of the routes, the rock quality can vary. Overall the climbing is good and some of the finest long routes at the grade can be found here.

The routes listed within this are consist of those on the South Eastern aspects of the main Sella Massif extending from Val Lasties (the left side of Piz Pordoi) up over Passo Pordoi and down to the village of Arraba.

Getting There

Passo Pordoi is a short drive up towards Passo Sella followed by a right turn at the junction and a climb up to Passo Pordoi. The routes in this area are accessed from a variety of locations. The large west face of Piz Pordoi is accessed from the Sella Pass road near the bar and Rifugio just prior to the switch backs climbing up to Passo Sella. The South face of Sass Pordoi is accessed from the top of Passo Pordoi. Some of the south eastern routes approached may start in Arraba.

The start of the route is in a gully system that is undercut by a few feet. To verify you are in the right place, look up for a small tower to the left and the main wall on the right. Pitch 1 (20m): Getting off the ground is one of the cruxes of the route due to the undercut start. Once established on the rock in the gully, head up and slightly left clipping a few pitons to a big single bolt anchor with rings in the gully. Careful with the loose rock in the gullyyour belayer will appreciate...[more]Browse More Classics in International