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Topic: Refitting exhaust FZS600 (Read 900 times)

So, I have a used Fazer in my garden that needs the exhaust refitting. Problem is the engine studs are all shot to hell, and having tried everything to get them out it's looking like removing the engine & drilling them out!!

Apart from the above, the bike is fine - starts and everything.

Having never taken the engine out of a bike before, does anyone have any tips/gotchas before I start? I've got the Haynes manual, a garage, and a friend with a penchant for fixing up old cars I'm also going to need new gaskets for the head and for the exhaust headers - does anyone know a good place to buy from??

Will post pics as I go, waiting on garage space at the moment though...

exhaust gaskets £4-5 are all over ebay as are the studs £8ishi have the exact same problem at the moment and while waiting for the new studs i have sprayed wd on studs everydayhave suffered in this area with smaler bikes with easier access so this is going to be an interesting onemake sure you use a anti sieze compound on the new studs

Regarding removing the engine, the Haynes manual states that you need to remove the oil filter. The only piece of additional advice I have is to remove the oil cooler as well. It is possible (just barely) to get the engine out without doing this, but it's a lot more difficult and you risk scratching the frame and damaging the threads on the oil filter mounting. Good luck.

ok so nuts were in worse than expected condition no spanner / gator grip / maul grips would workspliting chisel and lots of time to tap and split nuts only resulted in two broken studstommorow will be removing exhaust, moving rad and associated bits and left over studsin house engineer (Father) will be drilling out broken studs without much issue as long as no more break

I had a similar problem when I replaced my down pipes.I had been soaking the studs in W/D for about 4 days before starting the job.

Two of the stud nuts come out bringing the studs with them, I managed to get 5 other nuts off but one sheared the stud, but as the others were all off I was able to remove the original down pipes.The sheared stud was one of the centre (ish) studs and although it was sticking out of the head by a bout 6 or 7mm it was almost impossible to get at, I tried moles but once they were snapped into place the was no room to turn them.

I managed to get the broken stud out by using a small 5mm socket (1/4" drive) with a 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor and a short extension bar that allowed me get between the front duplex frame tubes and gently tap the 5 mm socket onto the the stud that was sticking out of the head.

I kept gently tapping the end of the extension bar and it forced the socket over the stud, actually moving the stud material to completely fill the socket then a ratchet on the end of the extension bar and just unscrewed the broken stud, I actually think that the tapping helped break any corrosion that was helping to hold the stud in place.I never managed to get the broken stud out of the socket but it did the job.

Oh! my apology to darrsi for the re-writing the Gettysburg Address, but I thought it might be helpful.tommy

CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP5 of the 8 studs sheared heads got to come off now - was amazed how easy they snappedtried all the tricks heat/flash freeze tap in with hammer to break seal - nothing workedreally didnt want to have to do head stripand its harder on this than my 82 gsx1100i knew i should have bought a bike lift

I know that my bike at 19 years old has over the last 17 years has only ever seen dry roads but stuff still gets rusty, last year I soaked my studs for about 3 months, every time I went out on it and came back I used a syringe with a long blunt needle to get right in and behind the collar I did it whilst still hot and then again when cold. I used something called Kroil which is used for cleaning and maintaining guns and is so called because it is a Kreeping oil (creeping )They came off ok, but not sure if it has more to do with them being in good condition or if the oil used or the length of time soaking which was the biggest factor but I would recomend getting a syringe for targeted oiling and to do it for longer.

Just read this feature about penetrating oil and it seems that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the best thing to use. Anyone on here tried it?

Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine. They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution.

The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

edit:It was pointed out that this was a topic a few months ago, so I read through that thread and did notice someone also recommended GM 1052627 heat valve/EGR lube and I have personally used a similar Mopar EGR product for years that works very well but it is definitly more costly then used ATF and Acetone.

And a final note on shop safety and penetrating fluids: I was spraying some exhaust bolts on an engine that wasn't running but was warm, when the penetrant hit the bolts it evaporated a bit. The fumes drifted my way and even though I was wearing safety glasses I got some residue in one eye. Flushed the eye for about 20 mins, it remained blurry and irritated so I headed to the emergency room. Brought the can along and the doctor about feel over when he read all the solvents that were in it, long story short, 3 hour eye flush on some hospital machine to get the ph normal in my eye socket.

Yes I read the same test last year which lead me to find some Kano Kroil =106 ft. lbs. I just called called it Kroil in my other post.It is very thin and smells a little acetone/ nampher -- ish - menthol sort of.

I paid £21 with post for mine from a Gun shop gun peeps seem to be the only people who use it in this country - its an american product, it was Livens LTD give them a ring as I dont see it on the website. Just found it here http://www.mooreleather.co.uk/accessories/kroil but its not easy to find in this country.

I though £21 was better than snapped studs and I can use it on other stuff too.

well lets be honest we are bikers therefore unlikely to have ATF laying around - so any we can get out hands on free will be a good starta quick search of the stuff in the video has friction modifiers and all sorts so it surely is some sort of synthetic to me