Making Fret Files

Sooooo, I decided to make some new fret files. Thought I would take pictures and stuff for some of the new guys. Am I an expert on the subject? Nope. But I'm going to do it anywho!

I like fret crowning files for some silly reason. I have purchased several from different luthier suppliers but I have had trouble finding exactly what I wanted. Size, shape, handle, handle angle, straightness of the file, temper of the file, cost. I have had trouble with all of these.
Having gotten burned with my last purchase from a certain UK luthier supply that left me a certain shade of red, I decided to make the files I wanted and thought I would send a set to a buddy as well.

So, what is the difference between a "luthiers" fret crowning file and a regular, three corner file? Not much. The main difference is someone rounded over the sharp corners of the file so the fretboard doesn't get damaged as you use the file. This rounding over has to be done by hand so that is why luthier files usually cost so much.

I purchased two 6" Nicholson #21866N three corner files from Home Depot and two Mercer 8" cantsaw files from Highland Woodworking. I like the size of the Nicholson files for easy handling and overall use. It also works good for rounding fret ends. The cantsaw file, though big and seemingly unwieldy, really work fast to put a crown on a fret. Work slow and check often with this one but you can get a fretboard done in no time.

First thing I did was attack the edges with my little 1 x 30" belt sander and an 80 grit belt. I should have used the grinding wheel first to get rid of all the tiny file teeth as I ended up standing there a long time doing pass after pass after pass. . . But anyways, the belt sander worked great ultimately. I went over the ends as well.

After the belt sander, I grabbed some 120 grit and 320 grit and a sanding block to go over the edges.

I spotted a couple of spots where the teeth remained and marked them with a Sharpie. Then I went back to the mini belt sander to DEAL WITH THEM!

After that, I changed the abrasive belt to a 600 grit belt and went over the edges again. I very carefully softened the transition from the now rounded corners into the files cutting teeth. To do this you have to hold the files cutting face at a very slight angle to the belt. Using the higher grit belt let me miss a couple times and not ruin the cutting surface.

I checked all the file edges by running them over the edge of the wood block to see if they cut at all. They were all good but I used a little more sandpaper to take down the transition areas some more.

I picked up all my files at carboot sales,I didnt bother rounding off any of the edges what i did do was make a fret protector from a beer can, slips over the frets and is held in place with a strip of masking tape..works for me.

I picked up all my files at carboot sales,I didnt bother rounding off any of the edges what i did do was make a fret protector from a beer can, slips over the frets and is held in place with a strip of masking tape..works for me.

Click to expand...

Just get a drafting eraser guard. Same thing. $2 or so. That's what I use when polishing my frets.

Its a common misconception that unicorn dust is ground unicorn horn. Its is actually ground unicorn seeds. Finding unicorn seeds and a proper unicorn seed grinder is really tough. Your best bet is Amazon.

Drafting eraser shield. I have the Stew-Mac one too but it slipped under some other tools in my tool box and I couldn't find it that day.

This is a flat needle file from a harbor freight $3 set, narrow edges and end ground smooth with a scrap piece of dowel for a handle.
I have cut U-shaped cereal box cardboard to do single necks before, the steel lasts many jobs though.
I recently bought an inexpensive set of contoured fret files to see how that works when I have to do several necks at a time and see if it saves any time of the single file.

Sooooo, I decided to make some new fret files. Thought I would take pictures and stuff for some of the new guys. Am I an expert on the subject? Nope. But I'm going to do it anywho!

I like fret crowning files for some silly reason. I have purchased several from different luthier suppliers but I have had trouble finding exactly what I wanted. Size, shape, handle, handle angle, straightness of the file, temper of the file, cost. I have had trouble with all of these.
Having gotten burned with my last purchase from a certain UK luthier supply that left me a certain shade of red, I decided to make the files I wanted and thought I would send a set to a buddy as well.

So, what is the difference between a "luthiers" fret crowning file and a regular, three corner file? Not much. The main difference is someone rounded over the sharp corners of the file so the fretboard doesn't get damaged as you use the file. This rounding over has to be done by hand so that is why luthier files usually cost so much.

I purchased two 6" Nicholson #21866N three corner files from Home Depot and two Mercer 8" cantsaw files from Highland Woodworking. I like the size of the Nicholson files for easy handling and overall use. It also works good for rounding fret ends. The cantsaw file, though big and seemingly unwieldy, really work fast to put a crown on a fret. Work slow and check often with this one but you can get a fretboard done in no time.

First thing I did was attack the edges with my little 1 x 30" belt sander and an 80 grit belt. I should have used the grinding wheel first to get rid of all the tiny file teeth as I ended up standing there a long time doing pass after pass after pass. . . But anyways, the belt sander worked great ultimately. I went over the ends as well.

After that, I changed the abrasive belt to a 600 grit belt and went over the edges again. I very carefully softened the transition from the now rounded corners into the files cutting teeth. To do this you have to hold the files cutting face at a very slight angle to the belt. Using the higher grit belt let me miss a couple times and not ruin the cutting surface.

I checked all the file edges by running them over the edge of the wood block to see if they cut at all. They were all good but I used a little more sandpaper to take down the transition areas some more.

More coming.

Click to expand...

OMG! Thank you!

Been slowly building up the tools I need, and if I can avoid just modifying some common tools it eliminates spending a lot of money for specialized stuff.

If you are going to do this with the 1" x 30" belt sander, it is a good idea to get a silicone carbide belt instead of using the normal sanding belts as they will be worn out by the time you are finished. Plus, they are inexpensive.

Its a common misconception that unicorn dust is ground unicorn horn. Its is actually ground unicorn seeds. Finding unicorn seeds and a proper unicorn seed grinder is really tough. Your best bet is Amazon.