Scotch malt whisky is now being outshone by “vastly improved” American brands,
leading critic says

For centuries it has been the pride of Scotland. But according to one of the world’s leading critics, Scotch malt whisky is now being outshone by “vastly improved” American brands.

Jim Murray, the author of the best-selling Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, claimed contamination had affected the casks used to age whiskies, while bourbons, made in the United States, have improved.

“Everyone automatically thinks that the best whisky is made in Scotland, but there are too many bad casks rattling around,” he said.

“Generally speaking, bourbon … has overtaken Scotch. The best whisky is coming not from Scotland any more, but from Kentucky.” Buffalo Trace, a bourbon distillery, is “arguably the best distillery in the world”, Mr Murray said.

He argued that the main reason for the deterioration in Scotch’s quality is the use of sulphur candles to sanitise some barrels.

The copper pot stills used to distil whisky remove unpleasant odours. But many whiskies are then matured in Spanish barrels that used to hold sherry, which have often been treated with sulphur candles. Mr Murray said this can give the whisky a “bitter finish”.

Tainted batches can go unnoticed because about 30 per cent of people are unable to smell the contamination. Another suggested reason for the reduction in quality is the addition of caramel, a colouring agent.

Bourbon, by contrast, is matured in virgin oak casks, which do not require sulphur treatment, and the industry is banned from using caramel.

Rosemary Gallagher, the spokeswoman for the Scotch Whisky Association, disputed Mr Murray’s view. “Caramel and sulphur sticks do not damage the whisky. This is really about Jim Murray’s personal taste,” she said.