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Topic: 2-6-0 Mixed Trafic Tender Locomotive (Read 9405 times)

Its been some while since I started a thread, but I haven't been idle. Since getting my Simplex in Steam and doing a little tidying up work on it I've been pondering what to take on as my next long term project. I have the fancy to doing a larger tender loco, I dropped on a set of Don Young drawing for his 5" Gauge 2-6-0 Horwich Mogul otherwise known as a Crab due to its appearance. Don's drawings are beautifully detailed and have many of the features of the full sized engine, but her I hit a problem, I'm not that bothered about it being an exact scale model as long as it looks ok when its over on the far side of the track I will be happy I'm more interested in its ease of manufacture, and it being a good runner. So I will be using Dons drawings only as a guide, and will be redesigned it extensively to make it easier to make:- her are my objectives and list of constraints for the design.

1:- All Features to be functional and relevant to use of a Miniature Locomotive2:- Minimum of cast parts3:- Make Maximum use of Don Young's design4:- Maximum Use of laser cut parts5:- Maximum use of commercially supplied Items (Boiler and Fittings)6:- Simple Construction7:- Simple and easy to maintain8:- Transport by one person

So there we have it:-

Every project has to start some ware so I decided to start with the cylinders as I thought this would be the most difficult part to make and if I couldn't make them there was no point in taking it any further. I didn't wont to use castings I wanted to make them from a billet of cast iron, this called for a redesign of Don Young's drawing. I kept all the main critical for function features:- over all length valve ports cylinder piston valve relationship etc, but reduce the cylinder diameter to 1 3/4" 45mm and simplified other features so that it could be made from billet.

Progress to date:-

Cutting the meehanite cast iron billet to size.

I then roughed it out on the mill and finished square using an angle plate

spotted out the cylinder and valve position using the mills DRO and located in large four jaw using a wobble bar.

Roughed out the bores.

And then set up on the cross slide and using a between centre boring bar finished the bore.

I like your idea the cylinder castings from Reeves are £367.06 , will be watching at 72" long not so small .

I bought all the bar material to make both cylinders including covers, piston, valve sleeves and valve spool for £160 so I recon I've saved myself a nice bit of cash, to be honest I think what they charge for castings is extortionate. On the down side there is quite a bit of machining to get them where I want, but on the plus side the continuous meehanite is lovely to machine, free of blow holes and hard inclusions, and once you have the billet for the cylinders squared up its a lot easier to handle than an odd shaped casting, I won't round the outside up until I have all the rest of the features machined.

I'm just going to take it one part at a time, my first hurdle is the cylinders, its pushing the capacity of my machine, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Well its been a busy summer I've been beavering away on this project as well as running my Simplex Loco I recon I've clocked up about 250 miles on it, any way I thinks I'm well over due for giving you guys an up date, I'll probably spread it over a couple of post as I've made a fair bit of progress.

Valve sleeve

Spool Valve

Piston Rings

Valve Cover

Guide bar bracket

Family Picture

I've got the frame built and the cylinders mounted I'll show pictures of this in the next instalment.

Hi CrisThe radius profile is just for appearance the cylinders will function just as well if they were left square. So all I did was to mark the radius on the end face and roughed them out with a series of flats with an end mill then blended them in with a file they didn't need any more than that.

Cheers Stu, fully understood it was appearance only but they look lovely. So they were hand filed. Jeeez.... I need to practice more!! Excellent work (but as I`ve said for many years, sod the engines and build a clock! - you`d make a bloody brilliant clock )

I,ve just completed machining the wheels: I was given a set of casting by a friend, some one had made a start of machining them the outside face had been machined up and the hole for the axle had been machined, some had the back face cleaned up, and all had the back hub face machined, but the hole was too big and the hub face was to thin meaning the rim of the wheel would rub on the frame. A set of unmachined casting will set you back about £200 so it is well worth the effort to recover them.

First job was to fit a bush with a flange to the bores fixed in place with high strength loctite and a small grub screw fitted down the joint.

That should keep it in place.

Next job was to set the wheel up in my four jaw chuck clock the dia of the bush up true and tap the back face of the wheel up against the face of the chuck, to do this I had to put some packing on the jaws in the shape of some small button magnets.

With a boring bar to get every thing running true rouch the bore out and finish off to size with a reamer

Face up the new hub to give the correct stand out, face the rim to the correct thickness and turn the dia for the flange to size.

I have a 300mm old fasion vernier to measure the rim, the price was right and it does the job

To machine up the front face I used my home made face plate that I made a few uears ago from a disc of steel donated by bluechip, so that I could clamp down on the rim I used two way tape to stick four washers to the plate and I screwed a mandrell into the centre.

Turned the mandrell up for a nice push fit on the bore.

Rough out the out the wheel tred dia and flange thickness

With a radius tool finish off the dia and flange thickness

Using the same mandrell as for the face place mount it on the mill and clock the mill up on it zero the DRO and move the off set for the the crank pin and lock the table up.

Drill and ream for the crank pin:- its important that the off set is exactly the same for each wheel so once you've done one don't move any thing.

Thanks for your interest Dave you were the only one to reply so I guess your the only one watching.

Any way

Hi Chaps:- if any one does read it.

I've not updated this thread for a while I did get distracted with a couple of other projects and I was a bit put off from updating it because of the problems I was having with photobucket, but now that I've gone add free its making the process far easier.

I have done some work on it and I'm planning too have a intense period of activity on it.

So her's the update

The main driving axles are made fro 3/4" ground mild steel bar, the first job was rough cut them to length.

Face them all off so that they were all exactly the same length.

Using a collett centre drill.

Then between centres turn down the end for a nice close fit in the wheels

I then drill down the ends and cross drilled oiling way this way to oil the bearing all I have to do is squirt oil down the centre of the axle. sorry no pictures of this.

Next turn up and fit the driving pins for the wheels and loctite them in the wheels

Axle boxes Made from a chunk of cast iron

1st job square the chunk up to size

Cut each axle box off from the chunk

In the four jaw face off to length.

Then in the mill I found the centre of each box and put in a centre drill, and using a woble bar centred the box back up in the four jaw and drill out and reamed 3/4"

Then turned up 3/4" mandrell

Transferred the chuck over onto the spin indexer and milled the groove for a nice slide fit on the frame hornblocks this way every thing will be concentric keeping the axle boxes in line.

Radius off the groove this is so the axles will roll on the track curve and humps and bumps.

This is the axles and axle boxes assembled with the springs.

Then using a quartering jig assemble the wheels:- its important for the wheel coupling that each set of wheels are quartered exactly the same

I post a picture of the wheels in the frame at a later dat.

I'm currently building the pony truck this is being fabricated from laser cut parts.

David's not the only one watching..... I just don't often comment (probably should really).

It's a great looking build so far, surprisingly complicated things, these steam engines! Are you making your own boiler, or getting a commercial one? Oh, and nice fix on those wheels BTW. You make it look and sound so simple, I'd be swearing and cursing after the 2nd one I bet.

Looking forward to the next installment!

Logged

Cheers!Ade.--Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.Or: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...Skype: adev73