I have the 2010 Fantom Team, I changed a few things on it, those tires are FAST, light, and small, I didn't trust them, I put on Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.25's, using the stock tubes, they weigh 480 grams, compared to 345 grams for the Kenda's, I don't know if you could go bigger with the Vuleta rims, but because the rims are so slim, I can go real low on the air pressure without pinch flats, I didn't like the narrow, low bars, 580 flat, I went to 660 with a 40mm rise, (BIG difference) Oury grips, when the seat wore through in the front I switched to a Fizik Aliante XM (thought I died, and went to heaven, what a seat), I like the way they turned your rear shock upside down,(it looks so good I think I'll do that) I moved the rear shock adjustment to the rear to get the most travel. I've got 800 miles on it now, and not a problem.
The Reba takes time to set up for yourself, I weigh 220 with gear so I put 110 in the top, and 110 in the bottom, just devide your weight in half, the Reba is outstanding, the rear I like stiff to cut down on bob, I still use all of the travel, with the shock in the rear setting on the pivot, I set the rear at 260, (if you run in the middle hole I'd run less air) I have a 4.2 though. The wheels are great, the brakes are amazing without a squeak, when I wore out the stock pads I put in Jagwire pads. I put a chainstay protector on it too, there was some chain slap, other then that; a Protege 9.0 wireless computer, an incredibell (people didn't respond well to,"get the hell out of the way" they mostly smile at the bell) This is a great bike, when I make a mistake I know it's my fault. I know thats more then 2 cents but I like the bike alot. Happy Trails, and Congradulations..

I'd try the bars first before I cut them, I have wide bars and would never go back. I had those stock narrow flat bars on way too long..the wide ones seem to help climbing, with manuals, control, mine are 660 mm, and I live in Michigan with the tree lined trails, I thought they would be too wide, but they work great.
You can get more travel out of the rear by moving the top shock piviot bolt back to the rear. I like the upside down shock, I got to do that..
Your bike looks great Congradulations,

Thanks Mana,
I was gonna wait on cutting the bars down, I have been doing more road riding recently and have gotten used to not being able to spread out on climbs. We'll see how it goes.

Honestly I haven't really had a chance to play around with the shocks and this is my first FS mtn bike. I did take it out for a quick spin around the neighborhood and it is shifting and riding pretty sweet. I still have to dial in some stuff but overall I am very impressed.

I weigh about 185 with gear on. What should I set the rear shock to?
And, how does turning the shock around give me more travel? Totally ignorant on that one?
Do I need to flip so the controls are at the top or does that not make a difference?

On the top pivot lever there are three holes the rear hole gives you the most travel, its supposed to be 5 inches, I wish I had a ruler like that..LOL it is more travel though, and your shock is fine like it is, I'd start with your weight in the rear shock,(185lbs) and check the sag, you can go to youtube to figure out about sag settings, the front would be good at 90 top, and 90 bottom, half of your weight (the left fork has air fittings top, and bottom with reccomended weights on the lower leg), ride it on some ruff stuff, and get some air, then check with the red ring how it's doing, you don't want to bottom out, and your shock is better upside down so the valve won't get knocked off, I'm going to do that with my bikes, I have a team, and a comp... we're still covered with snow, I have a rigid Spin Bike for winter...LOL.. Happy Trails

here is a picture of my shock in the "5 inch travel hole", I still have my shock like it came, but I will be turning it around soon.. it'll be another month or so before the snow gets off the trail enough to go for a ride.. Happy Trails..
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/ac122/manabiker/P1200001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

2011 Motobecane Phatom Team
I bought this bike for my wife and I will be comparing it to my bike a Santa Cruz Blur. My bike has 4.5”/4.7” travel with a Push built Factory Fox RP23 and a Push built Factory Fox F120 RLC with full XTR so the bar is set pretty high. The Cassette on the Phatom is a 11/27 This is a worthless(but light) little piece of junk that helps them keep there weight at 24 LBS
I complained and they said “race bike “ That is not what Shimano says on a web-link ironically provided by them “ 11/36 is best with the 30 speed Dyna-system.
The tires are a mere 345g, a 1.65” inner tube with little nobs on it. Again worthless pieces to help them keep the 24#. The bar is a flat narrow 23” and the stem is 110mm. How often do you see a flat bar with a 120mm fork? Never but it's light. Grade time... the tires and cassette F you couldn't have done worse. The bar and stem D-. The chain F it's not a Dyna-System without a Dyna-System chain that is directional and the whole system is made to work together.
The shifters brakes derailleurs shock, fork, wheels and frame A
The way this bike comes it would be good for racing someone on a dirt road and that's about it.
The $450 dollars to get it right added 2.5 pounds and the changes are as follows.
A 11/36 XT Dyna-System cassette and XTR Dyna-System chain. Schwable Nobby Nic 2.25 at 470g gets the job. A 75mm stem make the bike much more lively, eager to turn instead of wanting to go straight and a 1” riser bar makes shifting your weight easier and both make getting behind the saddle on super steep descents possible. A Specialized Ariel saddle adds greatly to the comfort for my wife.
Ditch the deceiving 24lb weight claim,(real tires will add a pound) add the 2 or 3 lbs, and add $200. to the price tag to get the right parts and you have a great trail bike or endurance racer.
. Even with the extra $400 I spent it is still by far the best deal out there. The frame is awesome, over built, very strong, super stiff, and it is reasonably light.. The welding is a work of art and the clear coat shows it off.
I set the shock on the middle platform setting and sprinted away with no pedal bob at all, and yet it is still plush. This was a surprise that there Active Fantom 4B suspension would pedal as well as my Blur. My Blur with its VVP pedals great with no platform at all, but the Fantom feels damn close to as plush as my Blur when its shock is set on the mid setting. The fork is great ,and I love the pop-lock brakes,shifting, and now the gear range are all great. I put my pedals and seat on the bike and rode it up and down ice box canyon at Snow Basin in Utah, a knarlly trail indeed My Blur is more nimble but the Phatom is more stable at high speed. I love the bike now, it handles great, pedals great and looks great.
It's like two different people specified parts for the bike one got the lightest parts no matter what, the other got the best parts no matter what.