sold a bunch of my discs on ebay as i found too many can be a real problem. Went for the minimalist approach with this.175g pro katana- understable downwind/deep driver169g pro starfire- don't see many using this but i love it. its actually the SL with -1/2 but breaks in nice with pro plastic. Was my only disc for a long time so i learned it real well so picked up another as my stable/ shaper go to disc.175g champ starfire- overstable and can take a beating. great flicks.175g pro firebird- just started to break it in so not as stable but still always comes backjk pro aviar- my close range chain seekerdx rhyno- thing is a beast! can rip it, flick it, and finds chains in all conditions, even with the wind in your face.

Really trying to learn these well so i know how to throw understable, stable, and overstable without any shanks. Just picked up a dx boss tho that is in the sweetest mold/plastic ive ever felt. in love with it and got me a birdie on a 447' hole. Now that my throw is really starting to develop im confident adding it in. Also been throwing my buddies 167g beast and thats becoming my guy. the -2 turn fits my throw right now and i can hyzer flip the fudge out of it

ya. i can put my aviar and rhino out past 250 on a rip. still more a forehand player and can flick the rhino without getting any whobble and get pretty good placement shots with it. Anything tricky i just use my starfire and finesse it at the ground near the basket and use its flair to place it

Tomas Ekström threw regularly to 420'+ with Aviars in his youth. He was called the Aviar man or the beast around when he got two dubs world championships with Fred Granåsen in 1992 and 1993. Despite his feats with Aviars these days he teaches in his clinics to throw mainly mids. I didn't have the time to ask him about the reasoning. I interviewed him after The Scandinavian Open 2010 and we had to leave home so the interview had to be limited in time. The guys sharing the ride with me waiting for the interview to finish were antsy to leave as it was.

I don't know how straight the fade of an SL becomes as it beats in but something slower powers down and flies straighter but if the SL works well then an obvious choice would be a straight mid. It is good for distance control from the Aviar to the SL distance gap and straighter flights. If that SL has beaten in to fly like a fairway driver say like another driver that powers down well -Valk and Sidewinder- a true FW with way less overstability than the Firebird may just be forgotten if you get a good mid. Longer would be better to act more like a fairway driver so Coyote and Warship are good options. The less distance you get with drivers the easier it is to not use straight fairway drivers using slow understable drivers. Mid can't be dropped that way without hurting the scores on occasion.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

i still haven't found a mid i like. Ive tried the roc and didn't like it. buzz is pretty sweet. got a shark now from a friend but its in 150 and not liking it too much. My gap from my putters to drivers is only like 70 ft lol so once i start throwing over 400' then do you think it'll be time for a good mid?

The time for a mid is right after you get first putter or you could go all mid at first. Driving putters teaches the most about technique and mids add grip comfort without the need to go balls out each time for distance while some of them fly as straight shot planning wise as putters. Meaning you aim at the center gap and fuck yourself trying to get weird flight lines that aren't repeatable for you. That 70' gap between your putter and driver is exactly why you need a mid. Powering down a driver to fit into the lower end of that range is a problem for keeping it straight and skips from the excess speed will be a problem. Say a hole is straight line 30' beyond your best putter drive and more on average you need to power down 40' with a fast driver. That can fade out and skip more which is bad especially on tight tunnels. That earlier and harder fade may make the disc hit a tree halfway up the tunnel which sucks because then you're of to wherever and shorter than you would have been with a putter. No such trouble from a mid.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

whats a good suggestion for a mid then? I would like something with a fairly good size rim. My main course is pretty hilly with usually only light wind. There are 3 holes 500ft+ but they play downhill. Some other deep 400 ft holes. Would love to have something I could rip a decent ways but stays straight for safe drives landing in the fairway. Only real mid I've tried is the roc and didn't like it cuz it couldn't take a flick.

Z Buzzz or TI if you don't mind paying for a pretty disc. People say that TI varies but so does Z too. If long downhills weren't required i would have said a Coyote. I haven't thrown it on such holes because i have none like those around but i imagine it could turn and burn on those shots at high power.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.