2009 Chevrolet Aveo

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Had the same problem on our '07 Aveo5; out of warranty, didn't want to pay GM arm and leg to look at it.

I dropped by my local O'Reilly (Auto Parts), and grabbed a $10 roll of universal weatherstrip (not the crummy gray foam stuff, but the black rubber tubing type). Applied to the inside of the door jamb at top, and the noise is all gone. Notice the factory stripping goes all the way round the door frame; my addition is just along the top (attempting to link image):

YMMV, but this worked like a charm for me. There are a couple of inches of space without weatherstripping from the factory, and it seems like wind whips over that cavity to create this noise. Could be something else, but this fixed our ungodly howling.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH OUR 2009 CHEVROLET AVEO LT SEDAN STARTED ABOUT 3 MONTHS AFTER WE BOUGHT IT. IT WAS PURCHASED USED AND HAD 36,000 MILES ON IT; SO WE FIGURED IT WAS A RENTAL OR PROGRAM CAR. WE PURCHASED AN EXTENTED WARRANTY (HOPING THAT WOULD HELP.) WHILE DRIVING ONE DAY; ON MY WAY DOWN THE ROAD JUST BEFORE A MAJOR INTERSECTION LIGHT; HAD TO STOP IN LONG LINE OF TRAFFIC. THE FIRST THING THAT HAPPENED WAS WHEN I SLIGHTLY LET OFF THE BRAKE TO MOVE FORWARD, THE CAR LUNGED. I HIT THE BRAKE AND THE RPM STARTED DROPPING AND THEN JUMPING; THE CAR STARTED SPUTTERING; SO I LET OFF THE BRAKE AND IT LUNGED AGAIN. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I PUSHED ON THE ACCELERATOR AND IT WAS IF THE ENGINE WAS NOT GETTING GAS. I PUSHED THE PEDDLE TO THE FLOOR AND AFTER A SECOND IT STARTED GOING SOMWHAT NORMAL AGAIN. I PULLED INTO A GROCERY STORE PARKING LOT; AND IT WAS VERY SHAKY OR SPUTTERING; I PUSHED ON THE ACCELERATOR AND IT WAS IF THE ENGINE WAS NOT GETTING GAS AGAIN. PULLED INTO PARKING SPOT AND ONCE AGAIN THE RPM STARTED DROPPING AND THE CAR SHUT OFF ON ITS OWN. SINCE THEN ON A REGULAR BASIS THE VEHICLE WILL LOSE POWER TO THE ENGINE. STEPPING ON THE GAS PEDAL DOES NOTHING. THE CAR WILL LURCHE AND DECELERATED QUICKLY. POWER WILL SUDDENLY RESTORE TO ENGINE CAUSING THE CAR TO SEEM NORNAL, BUT THEN THE ENGINE WILL LOSE POWER AGAIN. NO WARNING LIGHTS HAVE EVER COME ON. THE CAR HAS BEEN TAKEN TO 3 DEALERSHIPS; AND AN INDEPENDENT GARAGE WHO DID HAVE THE PROBLEM HAPPEN, BUT THE OTC GENISIS COUD NOT IDENTIFY WHAT WAS HAPPINING, JUST RECORD THE EVENT. NONE OF THE CHEVROLET DEALERS COULD GET IT TO DUPLICATE OR FIND AYNTHING WRONG; WHILE IN THERE POSETION. THE PROBLEM HAS CONTINUED INTERMITTENTLY FOR ALMOST 6 MONTHS. I HAVE BEEN TAKING VIDEOS WITH MY HTC DROID WHEN THE CAR IS HAVING ITS PROBLEM; IT SITS ON THE STEERING COLUMN AND SHOW THE RPM SPIKES AND DROPS. THE SUDDEN DECELERATION AND &#147;NO RESPONSE WHEN THE GAS PEDDLE IS PUSHED; HAS OCCURRED AT ALL SPEEDS, INCLUDING ON THE FREEWAY. IT WILL &#147;ACT UP&#148; (SO I&#146;VE CALLED IT) FOR A WHILE, AND THEN CAME BACK TO DRIVE NORMALLY AFTER SEVERAL MINUTES. THE PROBLEM HAPPENS SOMETIMES WITHIN THE FIRST TEN MINUTES OTHER TIMES IT HAS HAPPENED TWICE IN THE SAME DAY AFTER THE CAR SAT FOR 8 HOURS. THEN THE PROBLEM HAS GONE FOR PERIODS AS LONG AS TWO WEEKS AND NOTHING OCCURRED BUT THEN COMES BACK. THE MOST EXTREME OCCURRENCES HAVE BEEN ON SIDE STREETS WHERE TRAFFIC WAS NOT A PROBLEM, BUT IF ANOTHER CAR HAD BEEN FOLLOWING CLOSELY A REAR-END COLLISION WOULD HAVE BEEN CERTAIN. WE HAVE SPENT OVER $600 ON VARIOUS SO CALLED FIXES; INCLUDING FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN (INCLUDING THROTTLE BODY CLEANING) NO HELP. WAS TOLD BAD O2 SENSOR (BUT NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.. EVER) O2 SENSORS CAUSE CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. MY WIFE REFUSES TO DRIVE IT. WE THINK IT MY BE THE ENTIRE ECU COMPUTER; BUT NO DEALER WANTS TO ADMIT THAT. MAYBE DUE TO THE COST?

I think your message is more likely to be seen in our Chevy Aveo Engine Problems discussion. I think it's also more likely to be read all the way through if you post without using ALL CAPS. It's very difficult to read messages in ALL CAPS, and sometimes people won't bother. If you click on my link, you can post in the existing discussion.

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I happened to read your Aveo problem by chance this morning and feel like I should respond. My 2004 Aveo was having very much the same problem yours is. I bought it used with about 45,000miles on it. Soon after I bought it, it started jumping, lurching, and loosing power every time I came to a stop light. I hate to take the car to any con-man shop because they just take your $. My wife suggested the transmission was slipping. I took her suggestion and did the easiest thing first, drained the transmission fluid and put in LUCAS semi-synthetic multi-vehicle automatic transmission fluid. I bought it at AutoZone. I noticed improvement after the first change but not completely better, so I changed it again( got all the old fluid out of there). The problem is now completely gone, and am glad I listened to my wife!Anyway I thought if this my help you without spending a ton of money.

Well after several phone calls to local dealers and getting run around, finally called GM customer service line and surprisingly one of their reps was able to get a dealer or someone to tell her how to take off the black plastic cover on top of engine.

A) when facing the engine, look down at the black plastic cover on top of the engine, underneath that cover is the coil, and then below the coil bridge is the 4 spark plugs.

See the white letters ECOTEC, at the right hand side of this center black plastic piece is a ARROW sign ingrained in the top of the black plastic pointing to your right. THUS you need to slide this black plastic center piece to your right, it will only move about 1/4 of an inch to the right or so at most.

C) then put your fingers underneath the portion of the black plastic piece(ECOTEC) that is now slid out to the right and sticking out about a 1/4 of inch; now pull or lift straight up with your fingers underneath that black center piece. It is snug but do not worry you will not break it, it should pop straight up for you. Now you can see the coil bridge on top of the engine.

D) Then on the right hand side of the bridge coil there is a electric type plug that goes into the right hand side of the bridge coil, you need to unplug it from the bridge coil. You will need a 40 Torx bit to unscrew the two screws that are holding the coil bridge in place over the spark plugs.

E) Then once you unscrew those two screws, you just lift the coil straight up or pull straight up.

D) Then looking down inside the top of the engine you will see the 4 spark plugs. You will need a 5/8 spark plug socket to unscrew the spark plugs.

ecotec2009,I am happy that you finally found the information you were looking for. If you have any other questions, comments or concerns please feel free to email me directly.ChristinaGM Customer Service

Has anyone had this problem of losing power while driving normally. Sometimes on a side street or the freeway, we just lose power . Any ideas cuz the dealership can't seem to duplicate it. There's only 14000 miles on it and we're the only owner(so far)

I purchased my Aveo5 on December 22, 2009 with 21 miles on it. Within 48 hours, I had it at the local dealership because it needed a new fuel pump, new wipers, and the window stuck.

Since then, the following has needed repair or replacement (and I have 43,000 miles on it):all 4 tiresbrakesfront and passenger side window engineshatchback door will open selectively (but mostly will not open unless you hit the "sweet spot")car won't start the first timesilver key part fell into the drivers door (while in dealership's possession)turning the key in the passenger door only locks the doorsecond key doesn't work, need to call onstar to get into my cartire balancing every oil changealignmentair ventwiper blades x 3mold on ceiling

I've lost count of the times I've called GM and been to the local dealership (Ed Morse Chevrolet). I've had independent mechanics look at my car and give me diagnoses which the dealership said none of the above was wrong with my car, but lo and behold AFTER my warranty was over, all of it was broken and needed repair.

The dealership told me it would be $250 to LOOK AT MY WINDOWS. Not fix them but to examine my windows. I told them I didn't care about the windows as the car didn't start (and they were able to replicate it).

To date, this has been THE WORST CAR I HAVE EVER PURCHASED and have since dubbed it "the black lemon". State of Florida and Better Business Bureau have said Ed Morse has so many complaints it's not worth it to file another one and they are not BBB accredited.

GM calls and says "we can't find a supervisor" so I will eventually unload this piece of crap on someone else, but in the meantime CANNOT see why Edmunds gives this car a good rating! Email me about the 8" pile of bills, invoices, and repairs done on my car!

If ever there was a post loaded with hyperbole, exaggeration, lies and BS, this certainly sounds like it.

Your car has 43.000 miles on it. By then ANY car will need things like new tires, brakes and wiper blades. It needing things like continual tire balancing and alignment might be due to whomever did the work of tire replacement (and whatever else), probably done by the "independent mechanics" you mentioned.

On a 2009 this car has a five year warranty, so your car is hardly out of warranty at all. If you don't know how to get warranty work done by a dealership, that seems to be your primary problem.

I am probably the last person on earth wanting to be an apologist for GM and their dealerships, who are pros at making excuses and issuing apologies. (Don't take it personally - they try to do that with everyone if they can.) But if you don't know to complain in a way that is effective in getting results, this will happen.

With a posting name like "aveosucks" it suggests you are biased, angry, and don't know how to complain in a way that will get your car repaired under warranty.

HiWell, I got as far as removing the Ecotec cover, and identified the two torx screws which need to be removed - but I am unsure of the electric type plug on the right side of the bridge coil - its kinda tight in there, and seeing this is my first time intending on changing the plugs, I don't want to mess anything up with the wiring, soooo...just how does one go about removing this electric type plug? I did try to gently pry it off with a flathead screwdriver but didn't seem to make progress, so I returned everything to the way it was and came inside to type this.Thanks for any suggestions!20Aveo09

Hi, sorry for late reply, away from a computer past week and half and just now catching up on emails.

Anyway. Let me go look and see real quick but if I remember correctly I just used my hand to pull the electric type plug/black plastic connector(it is black with all sorts of wires running into the connector on one side from engine area or somewhere from rest of car, then the other side of connector plugs into the right hand side of coil pack) out off right hand side of coil pack, then used the 40 Torx bit to take out the two screws holding in the coil pack, basically under that coil pack you will have 4 black rubber boots that sit down over top of the spark plugs and connect to them, it will look kind of like 4 black milk cow [non-permissible content removed] hanging down when turned upside down, sorry only thing I could think of to describe those black boots and how they really look.

Yes I used my hands holding one side of connector/electric plug and pulling it out apart from coil pack with other hand. You might try spraying WD 40 inside or on it or around it and letting it soak then try it. Or you could try holding one side with your hand and using pliers to pull out other side, you will not break it or hurt it, it will slide or come apart, mine was stuck stiff at first until I pulled on it firmly, I just made sure I was gripping the black plastic and not pulling on the wires at all, you should be able to see where the electric connector/plug attaches in center of the connector piece.

Just did some checking online and if anyone ever stumbles across this looking for the actual ignition coil pack or coil pack bridge to replace that covers these 4 spark plugs, go online to look at Amazon or RockAuto or Autozone, the prices have dropped like a rock compared to what I was going to have to pay back in Feb of 2011 of $800-$900 range at Autozone then.

Look for "ACDelco D517C OE Service Ignition Coil Assembly" or "Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 96476983, C164AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5C1703 {#96476983, C1646}" on Autozone it was just ignition coil under the 2009 Aveo model.

Prices are now $74 @ Amazon.com for ACDelco and $59.99 on Ebay for this AC/Delco to $139 for DuraLast at Autozone to $138 at Rock Auto for Airtex and $96 for ACDelco! Damn I missed it by about 6-8 months or less of OEM parts being made available to order myself instead of having to go to the GMAC dealership shop and pay big time to have them replace the coil which I could have done myself easily. Oh well, I am noticing that it seems to take at least 1-3 years minimum before we have a really good selection on basic maintenance parts for Chevrolet Aveos, took me one year before I could find oil filters under $10 when I first started looking for them it was $30 plus a filter, a ripoff. Then after year I found all kinds available for $5-$10 or less. And same with windshield wiper blades, air filters, cabin filter, etc, I mean you name it. Hope this helps someone save some money in future, since from what I can see a lot of the coil packs on 2009 Aveos konk out at 30,000-60,000 mile range conveniently after warranty covers them.

Would like input from any other owners of 2009 Chevy Aveo's, particulary LS manual models in regards to the timing belt or "serpentine belt".

I noticed manual states to change it out at 100,000 miles.

1) Has anyone on here already had to change the belt out yet and if so at how many miles?

2) What name brand or type of belt did you replace it with, style, name, brand, price?

3) Has anyone on here had the timing belt break on them yet and have to be replaced and did it ruin the engine or any other parts or cause any other problems or expensive repairs?

I have not had any problems yet and have over 70,000 miles on mine after almost 3 years driving mostly highway at 55-65 mph and with manual transmission. But it is coming up here in next 12-24 months when I will be approaching 100,000 miles and wanted to be proactive on this issue since I have read on this forum where a lot of 2004-2008 owners seemed to have lot of issues with their timing belts breaking before 50,000 miles or less and then totally ruining their engines severely.

You really probably should have it at least inspected. If the timing belt breaks while you're driving, it will just snap and leave you stranded, and may damage other parts in the process. You WON'T have any problems with it, until it breaks. Any qualified mechanic can look at it and see if it's showing signs of wear. It's one of those maintenance items that just isn't worth skipping.

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2009 Pontiac g3(aveo5) pulled a spark plug and it is NGK ZFR6U-11. NGK website lists ZFR6F-11. Are these plugs interchangeable. No parts store lists 6U-11. Are they only dealer supplied? Also there are no English language websites that discuss the 6U-11 plug.

I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo as well. It has given me nothing but problems since day one. When I can afford to get rid of it there will never be another GM product in my driveway. Chevy/GM has the worst customer service ever.

The the reason that I am replying to your post is because of the tire alignment at every oil change. I was having to do that and replace back tires often. I had to have the car tires shimmed and Chevy refused to help cover the cost because they told me I may have done something to the car to cause that. The car was still under warranty as well. If you still have the car, and you are still having to re-align, look into having the car shimmed. Just be prepared to pay out of pocket.

I would like to answer your question on how to change spark plugs on a 2009 chevy aveo...

There is a eco-tec cover on the top of the motor, it easily comes off if you pull it up on the right side.

You will see a gray-ish cover (this is your coil pack, Ill abbreviate this as CP from here on) with two torx bolts, you can take it off using torx-bits. The next step is a bit tricky. On the left side of the CP there is an electrical connector that you need to take off. Its easy. There is a clip you can insert a flat head screwdriver into and pull off (i think its purple) do not remove, it just pulls out a few millimeters. Then there is a clip you can push down with your thumb and pull off the connector.

Once you have done this, you can pull of your CP and expose your spark plugs. You will need a ratchet, long extension and a screwdriver socket.

I like to do one spark plug at a time.

Now put your new spark plugs in. It is good practice to put a nice coat of a quality anti seize on the threads of your new spark plugs. Be careful tho, this stuff can be messy.

Once you have put in all new spark plus, its time to put your coil pack back on. Its good practice to put dielectric grease on the tips of the coils that attach to your spark plugs. This will aid in removal next time you have to do spark plugs. Put the connector back on the CP. Clip the connector on then push the purple safety tab back on. Screw the CP on with the torx bolts. These don't need to be super tight, just an 1/8th of a turn past snug. put your eco-tec cover back on and you are in business!

Hope this helps. If any errors are found in this posting please let me be aware.

I had one coil pack replaced 3 months ago. I got the letter about the recall and took it in to have it worked on. After they replaced the plugs & boots and told it was done it had no power, I did not even get off of the lot. They said the canshaft actuator solenoid valve filers were plugged and it was almost $100. labor $89. and shop parts $4.90. So how is it this just happened when they were working on it? It was running just fine and had never done this before. Thanks

OMG I came to this site for the first time and see our story over and over and over.Bought our car with 32000 miles, first had spark plug/coil problems(we relaced), then the acelerating problems (that no one can diagnose), then violent vibrating-struts are being replaced (in a 39,000 car!) as we speak. I only googled to see if there are recalls. Now I am scared-what is next?

How did the repair go yesterday, tambria? I hope that all is going well now and if we can ever look into anything further with you please don't hesitate to get in touch at socialmedia@gm.com (include the last 8 of your VIN so we can look into warranty and recall information for you, if you like).

2009 and newer models have a revise engine in them. Models before 2009 had many problems with timimg belts because the belt ran everything. but the new engine have a service belt. that leaves the timing belt for what it meant to do.

Did you have any luck resolving the wind noise concern on your Aveo? Also, I saw on another post of yours that you may have some recall questions - we're happy to check into recall information for you. Please email us the last 8 of your VIN at socialmedia@gm.com

I have a 2009 Aveo. I have had a few issues but a recall notice took care of it. I did have to buy 4 new tires soon after the purchase also, then 6 weeks ago when I was 100 miles from home at a Dr appt. for my son the dashboard lights started flashing and the car was not wanting to shift as i changed speed. Then the odometer needle dropped to zero. The engine light came on as did the low tire light. The RPM readings were very erratic and the car would not go into overdrive. I stopped at an Auto Zone for their free diagnostic. It printed out 4 different sheets of issues. I was able to drive the car back home at a slow speed. I got the car to my dealership and they have had the car ever since. The first week they ordered a speed sensor and a manual/park switch. After installing these parts which the mechanic thought would be covered under the powertrain warranty they took it for a test drive but it still would not go into overdrive. Thats when they decided i did not need the manual/park switch so they removed it. Thats when they told me it wasnt covered under the powertrain warranty. I then needed a radiator as transmission fluid had somehow got in it and ruined it. (the dealer was paying for the radiator) And they had to order a gear which was going to be covered by the warranty. They had no loaner cars and i had been on foot for a week so they rented me a car from Enterprise. That was over a month ago. I have called the Dealership several times. They tell me the part is a genuine GM part but is out sourced. I could have gotten it here faster by a rowboat. GM Customer Service used to call me a couple of times a week but not in the last 2 weeks. The Dealership has treated me really nice but i would really like to have my car back. Havent seen any other posts about the Aveo needing a gear or overdrive going out with the speed sensor. Just sounds like something hokey is up with my car.

We appreciate your continued patience on this and are sorry to hear that you have been without your Aveo for so long. If you had wanted to send us your case number (71-**********) to socialmedia@gm.com, we can check into it to make sure that we're doing all we can on our end in the meantime.

I have had several issues with my 2009 Aveo. But my service Dept. at Pembertons Chevrolet has taken care of every issue. This last issue was a rough one. Not only for me but for them also. My car was in the shop over a month before they got it running. They had me a rental car within a week. When the last part they ordered did not come in within a proper time frame they replaced the whole transmission. The GM Customer Service has also been wonderful. They called me every couple of days up until the last few weeks. Then i found out there was a glitch in the phone line and they couldnt reach me. But every one has been great. Including Edmunds. My car runs like a new one now. I wished all the people here with issues had a great service department. That is the key. All i have left to figure out is why i have brights but no dims. lol...