My P50ST50's internet features are fubar, especially the netflix application. Sometimes it just freezes and won't open the app and all I can do is reset all settings to factory and go through setup all over again. It's annoying so I just use my PS4's internet apps now.

Thanks for your input. Also, anyone know what the post prep Dnice settings are for the 55 model? Using Cnet's recommended calibration settings right now and have heard Dnice's are the best. Can't seem to locate them though.

These are DNice's POST PREP settings.

Default
North American TC-PxxST50 Reference Settings

*****Note: These settings are designed exclusively to be used on North American TC-PxxST50 displays after completing the Panel Prep procedure listed in post #1 . Please do not use these settings unless you have follow post #1 100%*****

*****Note: These settings are designed for North American TC-PxxST50 owners who choose not to do the Panel Prep precedure listed in post #1 . Use these setting immediately after taking the display out of the box.

*****IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU FOLLOW THE PANEL PREP PROCEDURE AND USE THE TC-PxxST50 REFERENCE SETTINGS DUE TO THE GRAYSCALE SHIFTING RED WITHIN THE FIRST 100 HOURS OF USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****

*****Note: These settings are designed for North American TC-PxxST50 owners who choose not to do the Panel Prep precedure listed in post #1 . Use these setting immediately after taking the display out of the box.

*****IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU FOLLOW THE PANEL PREP PROCEDURE AND USE THE TC-PxxST50 REFERENCE SETTINGS DUE TO THE GRAYSCALE SHIFTING RED WITHIN THE FIRST 100 HOURS OF USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****

I never did the prep/slides. Now that I've owned my set since Nov 2012, should I try the POST PREP settings or should I try the BEFORE ANY PREP settings?

I currently use the Cnet settings and I am enjoying those. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Can you post your cnet settings.

In my experience the DNice settings are far superior to any other settings. I would try the non prep settings and see what you think.

Then try the post prep settings and see if you like them more. But, in your position I would use the non prepped settings.

I ran the slides and have been running the post prep settings since I got mine back in '12. The only thing that I changed is the gamma. I dropped it to 2.2 from the assigned 2.4 in his settings, and this could just be because of ambient lighting.

A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks a noticeably darker. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.

A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks are noticeably darker. It also seems to handle color gradients much better than the ST30, with less banding occurring. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.

A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks a noticeably darker. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.

I have not found any need to adjust the panel brightness (low, mid, high) setting. There is plenty of brightness available without having to effect the baseline. Try lowering your gamma to 2.2, or lower if needed, instead.

I have not found any need to adjust the panel brightness (low, mid, high) setting. There is plenty of brightness available without having to effect the baseline. Try lowering your gamma to 2.2, or lower if needed, instead.

Agreed on the Panel Brightness, it was more just an observation than anything, I left at Mid per D-Nice's settings,.

I used a Calibration disc to further tweak D-Nice's settings. I could never get Warm 2 to come out as I would like and again it was dramatically different than the ST30 on the Warm 2 setting. Maybe some kind of panel variation.

Overall really happy with how it is, the deeper blacks and the increase in brightness really made a nice upgrade over an already good ST30 (I use this in light controlled environment so the ST30 never struggled due to natural light)

Agreed on the Panel Brightness, it was more just an observation than anything, I left at Mid per D-Nice's settings,.

I used a Calibration disc to further tweak D-Nice's settings. I could never get Warm 2 to come out as I would like and again it was dramatically different than the ST30 on the Warm 2 setting. Maybe some kind of panel variation.

Overall really happy with how it is, the deeper blacks and the increase in brightness really made a nice upgrade over an already good ST30 (I use this in light controlled environment so the ST30 never struggled due to natural light)

there are for sure differences in the panels between the ST30 and ST50. My only regrets about my ST50 is that I couldn't get a ZT50. But with 4k on the rise, I'm sure I'll be in the market for one of those within the next couple of years.

Does anyone else who is still active on this thread have an ST50 and Dish Network? I am not at all satisfied with the picture quality and it has me questioning the TV but it has to be the source because video games and blurays look phenomenal. I am coming over from DirecTV to save a few bucks but it might have been a mistake.

Does anyone else who is still active on this thread have an ST50 and Dish Network? I am not at all satisfied with the picture quality and it has me questioning the TV but it has to be the source because video games and blurays look phenomenal. I am coming over from DirecTV to save a few bucks but it might have been a mistake.

60st50 here with Dish. I've always been happy with it, but considering a Vizio p65 soon. I don't own a Bluray. Regular HD content looks great.

I was reading the Official Panasonic VT50 forums about input lag on that panel as well. Someone in that thread talked about how he was able to reduce the input lag in custom mode by disabling Viera Link and bluetooth settings. I disabled Viera Link and tested this myself and it DOES seem to reduce input lag enough in custom mode to make games playable in that mode. This may be strictly placebo effect happening here but it really did feel like it made a difference. Could anyone else test this as well? And does anyone know how to disable bluetooth on the ST50?

Did anyone ever get to the bottom of this?

And Powers16, do you play multiplayer PC FPS games (e.g. Counterstrike) on your ST50? If so, how's it perform?

Input lag is unfortunately a dealbreaker---even if I had enough money, it's not super practical to switch TVs every time I wanna game instead of watching media

Sorry for the double post, I can't ifgure out how to edit my old one.

One addition: the G10 almost feels like it was made to be a computer monitor, the picture is super crisp.

Also, supposedly the ST50 is much more vulnerable to burn in. As someone who has played 4-5 hours of a single game on my G10, I've only ONCE seen image retention, and it went away after 45 minutes of a different game

First off, I apologize if there's a more appropriate place to post this. I've done some reading and it seems like this may be the right place. Please feel free to redirect me if needed.

My 2 year old son threw a metal beater for a triangle (musical instrument) and it struck the screen tip first and as soon as it happened, the tv shut itself off and is now doing the 7 blink of death. What's odd to me is that, while there's a small dent in the glass and some short cracks emanating from it, I'm surprised it'd completely kill the TV. I assumed that maybe the colors could be off there or that some pixels could be ruined, but it visually isn't catastrophic looking damage.

I've done some reading, and it seems like SC board replacement is a common suggestion. But, I'm skeptical that replacing that board would necessarily solve my issue. Is the screen being (slightly) cracked a death sentence (would it just short out any replacement board or not power up?)? If a replacement board would at least render the display functional (but with a crack), I'd be willing to go that route for use in a spare room.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm just technical enough to be dangerous, so if there's a way I can test the existing boards to figure out if some/all are bad I'm willing to give it a whirl. Similarly, if I'm best off just getting a new TV and selling off some of the internal components I'd do that too.

First off, I apologize if there's a more appropriate place to post this. I've done some reading and it seems like this may be the right place. Please feel free to redirect me if needed.

My 2 year old son threw a metal beater for a triangle (musical instrument) and it struck the screen tip first and as soon as it happened, the tv shut itself off and is now doing the 7 blink of death. What's odd to me is that, while there's a small dent in the glass and some short cracks emanating from it, I'm surprised it'd completely kill the TV. I assumed that maybe the colors could be off there or that some pixels could be ruined, but it visually isn't catastrophic looking damage.

I've done some reading, and it seems like SC board replacement is a common suggestion. But, I'm skeptical that replacing that board would necessarily solve my issue. Is the screen being (slightly) cracked a death sentence (would it just short out any replacement board or not power up?)? If a replacement board would at least render the display functional (but with a crack), I'd be willing to go that route for use in a spare room.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm just technical enough to be dangerous, so if there's a way I can test the existing boards to figure out if some/all are bad I'm willing to give it a whirl. Similarly, if I'm best off just getting a new TV and selling off some of the internal components I'd do that too.

Thanks!

I need ur parts or I'll sell u my panel.... The HDMI board needs replaced, I have been using component input; unstable red
image just started, so the main board needs replaced. Your parts in my TV.

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