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Alrighty guys thanks for all the info . And im not the one whos gonna be putting that one in, the shop is doing all that
im just visiting and taking pics every other day. I'm sure they know what they're doing. And the headers are mounted.

Mopar M1 being put together with BBK Throttle body for mounting. EGR cap finally got here
so we can move forward. I recently ordered a different muffler though, because I didn't realize
the flowmaster 70 is one of the quietest ones. And I said well f@#k quiet! And I ordered 10 series
LOL, we'll see how that goes

Possibly not sure yet, first i have to see how's my baby going to run, and do the SCT Tune FIRST!

Just came back from the shop, they're just waiting for one hose connecting intake manifold with water pump, and
once that gets there they will be wrapping up the whole thing Can't wait for the first start :P

Just came back from the shop, they're just waiting for one hose connecting intake manifold with water pump, and
once that gets there they will be wrapping up the whole thing Can't wait for the first start :P

Do you know if that intake requires a connecting hose that's different than stock? I'll be installing the same intake next week, so it would be nice to have the right one on hand.

Yes it does you can see what I'm talking about in the last picture. Those two 1/2" nozzles that are missing the rubber
pipe connecting them. On the top of the water pump and next to the thermostat on the manifold... I think the guys
in the shop know what has to be done lol. I'm no mechanic, i can do small easy stuff around my car but when it comes
to engine replacement im gonna rely on their knowledge and experience. But in this case thats a no brainer, those two
HAVE to be connected... LOL

OMG now we got a check engine code, before they are able to start the car they gotta figure out whats up. They told me the cam sensor signal isn't getting where it should for some reason so there's no spark. If that workedmy car would be done today... Grrr... They say its a DOA distributor, cuz they replaced it... and since the sensoris actually a part of the distributor it might be the case we'll see... And another weekend without a car... forfcuk sakes...

....They told me the cam sensor signal isn't getting where it should for some reason so there's no spark....

They say its a DOA distributor, cuz they replaced it... and since the sensoris actually a part of the distributor it might be the case .....

That doesn't sound right. Well not exactly.

The CPS /Cam Position Sensor itself is on a flat plate that sits right on the top of the distributor. The only thing that really holds it are the same two screws that hold on the cap itself. It's like a two minute replacement - except for how much of a giant PITA it is to get at our dizzys, lol.
The wiring from that sensor to the connector is a bit long, but I can't recall if it's long enough to get pinched between the bell and the motor. Offhand I don't think it is.

The only thing that's really part of the diz is the window wheel with it's one hole, which is held onto the shaft with a roll pin. I can't see how you'd damage that short of running over the distributor!

Possibly they missed getting a screw through one of the holes on the sensor when putting the cap on and it's in there skewed, but I think it would have been fairly hard to get the cap to sit normal - so that might not even be possible.
If the diz was installed way out of time I'm pretty sure you'd be getting something, like backfires or through the intake, so I doubt that's the issue.

Are you sure they're reading a problem from the CPS and not the CKPS/CranK Position Sensor?

That's the one that's mounted on the back of the passenger side head and goes through a notch in the tranny bellhousing.
It would be possible to damage that sensor if they weren't careful mating the motor and tranny, and even more likely - the wiring to that connector is fairly long and dangles down in a bad spot during motor or tranny replacements. It's actually fairly common for that wire to get pinched between the block and tranny if you don't know enough to watch out for it specifically.

Haha i have no idea about anything you mentioned here hehe, i trust those guys that they know what they're doing. But time will tell
Anyways thank you for letting me know about all those things, i can show them your post if they are out of ideas LOL. I will know today
in few hours. Gonna make myself a bicycle ride to the shop

CPS/Cam Position is the one in the distributor. I typed Crank cuz it's too early to brain

Their scanner might identify the correct component but I'm not sure. Haven't worked with them too much.

Why did they replace the diz originally, and did they replace it with a new or used one and did it have the sensor? Anyway - maybe the old diz still has the sensor?

Like I said, easy swap. Unscrew the two screws that hold on the cap, remove the cap and yank off the rotor, unseat the grommet where the wiring goes through the diz - then put the new one in and put it back together.

Can't hurt to have them check the wiring to the crank sensor on the bellhousing and make sure it's not pinched.
Also have them check the smaller grounds on the block.

It very well could just be the wiring to the cam sensor in the diz. It is 17 year old wiring and might not react well to all the moving around you do during a motor swap.

They offered it to me, since the entire air intake is a performance system, they thought
putting performance distributor and coil would be beneficial. I also plan on putting bigger
injectors and stronger fuel pump in the future... For now i just cam back from the shop, and
they havent done shit since saturday, because the guy that is doing my car, took a weekend
and monday off, so im ****ed...

Anyways I took more photos... here they are:

Put back together almost entirely...

Love those headers hehe

EGR Cap...

The rubber tube connecting the waterpump and the intake manifold can't really see it. But its there...

Well, I spoke to the manager on the phone today, and they told me that they got rid of the cam position sensor
problem. So tomorrow they are going to be putting her all back together and HOPEFULLY she's gonna be all ready
tomorrow \o/

Wow, that's pretty clean underneath too. Was that Jeep from down south, or do they not use a lot of salt out there?
Now that I think about it, this is from Florida, right? I remember Ryan saying he saw you.

Pretty sure most people use the Walbro pump. 255 I think?

Do you have a tuner? If not, you really need it to make the most of these mods.

EDIT: Looking at your old exhaust on the floor - make sure they put on something to hang it at the trans mount. Weld that old U onto the new pipe or whatever.

These exhausts are way too long to be unsupported. It will lead to excessive movement which will lead to premature cracking

I don't think you need a performance fuel pump. Bigger injectors can provide more fuel flow with no change to the factory pump. Since you didn't go crazy with a stroker or cam you're probably within the operating range of the stock injectors and stock pump, but I'd go with newer 4-hole injectors anyway, and I'm guessing 24lb would suffice. I'd put it together with the stock pump and get it tuned... and that will tell you the duty cycles of the injectors and pump, and whether you need to change something. It's not like they pulled the fuel tank for the engine install, so there's no rush to do it now. Well, that's my 2 cents on that.

What John said about the exhaust weight is exactly right. In addition to being heavier than stock exhaust, the DT header flanges are extremely rigid, and that adds more stress to an undersupported exhaust. The second outfit that did my exhaust welded an extra support to the side of the control arm mount (leaving space around the CA mounting bolt) to support the back end of the muffler - the heaviest piece. As long as it's supported somewhere in between the headers and the tailpipe you should be good.
The original installers of my exhaust cut, welded and crimped the shit out of the mandrel bent SS tailpipe trying to get clearance for banging on the sway bar on right turns and vibrating on the body on left turns, and they never got it to stop hitting. Had to buy a new $180 tail piece from Kolak, and another $600(!) to Stan's Headers for the install... expensive, but they got it right on the first try, and it was their idea to add the extra support. No additional point here... just venting!

One more thing... just compared my M1 2bbl to a stock keg, and the bypass hose attachment is in exactly the same place (within 1/16") in all three axis, so the stock bypass hose should fit just fine. I thought all the 2bbl M1's were the same, but maybe not (I know there are different 4bbl versions with different outlet locations).

Wow, that's pretty clean underneath too. Was that Jeep from down south, or do they not use a lot of salt out there?
Now that I think about it, this is from Florida, right? I remember Ryan saying he saw you.

Pretty sure most people use the Walbro pump. 255 I think?

Do you have a tuner? If not, you really need it to make the most of these mods.

EDIT: Looking at your old exhaust on the floor - make sure they put on something to hang it at the trans mount. Weld that old U onto the new pipe or whatever.

These exhausts are way too long to be unsupported. It will lead to excessive movement which will lead to premature cracking

No I'm in Chicago, Ryan saw me in florida when i was visiting my girlfriend. The car lived it's entire life in florida though thats why its so clean, no rust on the
body anywhere, and the paint is just flawless. It's been driving in Chicago for 2 years so i guess i gotta just make sure i take care of it more...

Originally Posted by carlmon

I don't think you need a performance fuel pump. Bigger injectors can provide more fuel flow with no change to the factory pump. Since you didn't go crazy with a stroker or cam you're probably within the operating range of the stock injectors and stock pump, but I'd go with newer 4-hole injectors anyway, and I'm guessing 24lb would suffice. I'd put it together with the stock pump and get it tuned... and that will tell you the duty cycles of the injectors and pump, and whether you need to change something. It's not like they pulled the fuel tank for the engine install, so there's no rush to do it now. Well, that's my 2 cents on that.

What John said about the exhaust weight is exactly right. In addition to being heavier than stock exhaust, the DT header flanges are extremely rigid, and that adds more stress to an undersupported exhaust. The second outfit that did my exhaust welded an extra support to the side of the control arm mount (leaving space around the CA mounting bolt) to support the back end of the muffler - the heaviest piece. As long as it's supported somewhere in between the headers and the tailpipe you should be good.
The original installers of my exhaust cut, welded and crimped the shit out of the mandrel bent SS tailpipe trying to get clearance for banging on the sway bar on right turns and vibrating on the body on left turns, and they never got it to stop hitting. Had to buy a new $180 tail piece from Kolak, and another $600(!) to Stan's Headers for the install... expensive, but they got it right on the first try, and it was their idea to add the extra support. No additional point here... just venting!

One more thing... just compared my M1 2bbl to a stock keg, and the bypass hose attachment is in exactly the same place (within 1/16") in all three axis, so the stock bypass hose should fit just fine. I thought all the 2bbl M1's were the same, but maybe not (I know there are different 4bbl versions with different outlet locations).

I don't think im gonna mess with the injectors, i already got the bosch 4 hole ones but stock size, and I'll just see whats up... As for the exhaust this guy knows what he's doing, hes just attached it for now
to be able to tweak the timing without neigbors calling the police, because of the noise LOL...

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