Winter wonderland, Santa Dash and ice skating: Christmas in New York

NOWHERE does Christmas better than New York.

It may have been the martini but I could have sworn I’d just seen Santa dash past the window. And another. And another. Four, five, six of them sprinted past – the last one giving a jaunty wave as he spotted my dropping jaw.

Welcome to Christmas in New York – arguably the best time to visit as the city transforms into a winter wonderland and goes Christmas crackers. I’d just witnessed a “Santa Dash” my barman, Josh, informed me – a tradition enjoyed by native New Yorkers celebrating the holiday season by bar-hopping in Santa suits.

So I hadn’t been seeing things. And the real Santa doesn’t wear Nike trainers.

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Shopping heaven: Macy’s at Christmas is the perfect place for a shopping spree

Nowhere oozes festive spirit more than the Big Apple. From the stunning festive shop window displays, to the snugly, wrapped-up ice skaters gliding in Central Park, the feel-good factor is infectious.

If you think the UK goes overboard in the run-up to December 25th, New York takes it to a whole new, magical level – little wonder more than five million of us are expected to visit between now and New Year.

I decided to immerse myself in all things schmaltzy by going to see the famous Christmas tree at the Rockefeller Center. In the midst of skyscrapers in the heart of Midtown Manhattan, a giant Norway spruce twinkles with thousands of lights above the center’s famous ice rink. It’s worth enduring the crowds and certainly puts you in the mood.

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The Empire State Building

Fun as it is to watch the skaters, the queues can be long and it’s better to head for another iconic Yuletide attraction – the Wollman Rink in Central Park. Nestled in the sprawling 843-acre park, skaters swish past frosty trees beneath the magical New York City skyline.

Unsurprisingly, given its romantic backdrop, the rink gets busy so buy your ticket before you leave the UK (see attraction-tickets-direct.co.uk). It’s the only rink-ready ticket that guarantees you entry (even at peak times). I confess to wobbling rather than gliding over the ice, but it left me exhilarated and eager to explore more of this beautiful park.

Yes, a horse-drawn carriage ride is schmaltzy, but that’s kind of the point of visiting New York at this time of year.

So I hopped unashamedly into a carriage, pulling a much-appreciated blanket over my knees while Serge, my guide, provided amusing commentary on where endless movies and TV shows, from Love Story, Serendipity and Elf to Sex And The City and Friends had been filmed as we rode through the park.

If that was a taste of a bygone era, Times Square is the polar opposite. Said to be the most visited place on earth, it’s the pulsating heart of New York City – awash with huge flashing billboards, buzzing restaurants and shops and crowded with people 24 hours a day.

In a few week’s time on New Year’s Eve, one million people are expected to cram into the so-called “Crossroads of the World”.

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New York is simply shopping heaven with unbelievable bargains

Thrilling as it was to be amid such craziness, I needed to recharge, and sanctuary beckoned at The Knickerbocker, the first luxury hotel in Times Square.

Opened in 1906 by John Jacob Astor IV, it was known for its lavish parties until Prohibition forced its closure in 1921. Converted into offices before being re-opened last February as a five-star hotel, this stunning Beaux-Arts landmark is, ironically, probably the most restful place I’ve ever stayed.

It may be in Times Square but you don’t have to worry about noise: all 330 rooms are soundproofed and the quiet stillness when you’re gazing down at the frenzy below is wonderful. The restaurant is just as classy and since the hotel claims to have invented the martini, it seemed rude not to try one at St Cloud, its stunning rooftop bar.

Batteries recharged, it was time to get down to some serious shopping. New York is simply shopping heaven with unbelievable bargains and streets laid out in a simple grid, meaning it’s easy to walk everywhere, from Macy’s and Bloomingdales to classy Fifth Avenue.

Credit card smoking, it was time to leave and I finished my trip on a high – literally – by taking the lift up to the 86th floor of the iconic Empire State Building. The view revealed a glistening city, bursting with festive cheer. Simply put, nowhere does Christmas better.

Way to go

British Airways flights from London Heathrow to JFK start from £362 return during December. To book go to ba.com/newyork. Rooms at The Knickerbocker (+1 212 204 4980, theknickerbocker.com) start from about £240 in December.

Rink-ready tickets for ice skating in Central Park are available through Attraction Tickets Direct (attraction-tickets-direct.co.uk) and cost £17 for an anytime ticket; £13 for a midweek ticket. Visit nycgo.com for more information about New York City.