Hello dear followers,
Here it is the inspiration of the week for the space called "Clothes& Clip". This is the last post dedicated to the
theme "Oriental Mood". Next mounth I'll choose another subject.

mercoledì 25 marzo 2015

A new exhibition at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent
shines the spotlight on the late couturier’s infamous 1971 collection,
which was inspired by the Forties.

Curated by Olivier Saillard, director of the fashion museum at Palais
Galliera, the show features 40 outfits from Saint Laurent’s spring
couture line, which caused a scandal because of its perceived vulgarity
and its references to a dark chapter of history, the Nazi Occupation of
Paris during World War II.

The exhibition also features accessories, sketches,
film footage of the show and magazine spreads by the likes of Helmut
Newton. The set design by Nathalie Crinière incorporates curved panels
emblazoned with reproductions of Saint Laurent’s collection notebook
consisting of sketches and fabric swatches in order to give visitors the feeling they
are stepping into his creative process.

The catalogue of the exhibition includes an interview with Paloma
Picasso, who inspired the collection with her colorful outfits culled
from flea-market finds.

In
the suggestive "Sala delle Cariatidi" of Palazzo Reale was
inaugurated the exhibition "La Camicia Bianca Secondo Me.Gianfranco Ferrè" dedicated to the great
master Gianfranco Ferre, a name that has left a mark in the history of
fashion and not only Italian.

The
heart of the exhibition is represented by 27 white shirts on mannequin,
testifying over twenty years of continuous creative research. The
sartorial masterpieces displayed in chronological order and the
many materials, from taffeta to crepe de chine, from organza to satin, through the tulle and silk, show how the testing
of new fabrics and care in cutting and in processing have been central in Ferrè artistic career . Enrich
exposure technical drawings, sketches, advertising images and shots of
Luke Wicks, narrator of fashion and art director of Vogue Italy.

The Palais Galliera, in close collaboration with
Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, is honouring the oldest French
fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to
Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the
amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage.

Mademoiselle
Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a
shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in
1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897,
she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary
source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of
children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and
Women’s department. That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la
Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French
Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for
lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and
sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s
fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona,
Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet… Inspired by the intense blue in
frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her
favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s
thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège.
The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with
Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau.
The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.

Jeanne
Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast
library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create
fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents
artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals,
cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical
French perfection, with very 18th century style dresses –
slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line
of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the
profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels.

A
capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern
world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet
woman. Alber Elbaz and the Palais Galliera invite you to an encounter
with this great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin.

- See more at: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin#sthash.RKm0cna4.dpuf

PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM

Jeanne Lanvin

From the 8th of March to the
23rd of August 2015

Palais Galliera Paris

The first large scale retrospective about Jeanne Lanvin was unveiled at
the Palais Galliera alongside Paris Fashion Week the day after the
Lanvin presentation by Alber Elbaz and in his presence. The exhibition
allows the public to appreciate the work of this iconic woman of
fashion, who knew how to revolutionise the fashion of her era by
modernising it and using the elegance of her cuts, draping and
embroidery. Elbaz was personally involved
in the preparations of this exhibition which reunites one hundred
dresses provided from the heritage of the Lanvin house and
from the museum.

www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr

From March 8th to August 23rd, 2015

The Palais Galliera, in close collaboration with
Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, is honouring the oldest French
fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to
Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the
amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage.

Mademoiselle
Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a
shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in
1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897,
she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary
source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of
children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and
Women’s department. That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la
Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French
Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for
lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and
sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s
fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona,
Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet… Inspired by the intense blue in
frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her
favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s
thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège.
The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with
Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau.
The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.

Jeanne
Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast
library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create
fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents
artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals,
cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical
French perfection, with very 18th century style dresses –
slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line
of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the
profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels.

A
capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern
world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet
woman. Alber Elbaz and the Palais Galliera invite you to an encounter
with this great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin. - See more at: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin#sthash.RKm0cna4.dpuf