The Difference Between Custom and Couture Wedding Dresses

Over breakfast at the Plaza's Palm Court, fashion designer Monique Lhuillier walked me through the process of a lesser known area of her bridal business: Haute Couture. A luxury for truly discerning brides with a particular vision, the L.A.-based designer takes on no more than eight couture clients a year.

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In the early stages of the process, Lhuillier presents the bride with a couture package that includes a proposed sketch and fabric swatches.

Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier

"We start by explaining the process over the phone," says Lhuillier, whose couture wedding gowns start at $55,000 depending on complexity and materials (for price comparison purposes, off-the-rack dresses from her more accessible BLISS by Monique Lhuillier, available at Nordstrom, start in the $2,000s).

"Some brides don't know what couture is, so it screens candidates." For those who don't know, custom is a process of modifying a runway or off-the-rack dress; Lhuillier might add sleeves, swaps buttons, or alter the hem. A couture dress is created 100 percent from scratch—a custom design, executed with the finest materials specifically sourced and cut for the bride.

One of Lhuillier's most recent clients was Jennifer Cain, the daughter of Kathryn Hall, former United States Ambassador to Austria and owner of Hall Wines in Napa Valley.

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A gown sketch for couture client Jennifer Cain.

Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier

"Jennifer wanted a gown that was regal and timeless to wear with a cathedral length veil," says Lhuillier. "I created a one-of-a-kind long sleeve embroidered beaded jacket and a voluminous trumpet skirt with an extended train that accentuated her beautiful figure. The dress is layered with two different types of lace—a delicate Chantilly hand embroidered lace with a dusting of crystals and under a re-embroidered floral lace on a base of silk satin organza. Once the jacket was removed and the train was bustled, it created a different look for the reception."

Jennifer Cain on her wedding day wearing Monique Lhuillier couture.

Courtesy of Photographer Joe Buissink

Most of Lhuillier's couture bridal clients require six fittings, all of which happen in her Los Angeles flagship boutique. Depending on the bride's needs, she'll even send her head tailor to the wedding. The price, time, and travel commitment pays off: "On the first fitting we usually hug and cry, on the third fitting they bring their planner in, by the end I'm invited to the wedding."

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