A Former Marcel’s Cook Opens the Black Squirrel

Sandwiched between Amsterdam Falafelshop and La Fourchette on Adams Morgan’s kamikaze-shot-fueled 18th Street is a new eatery that seeks to bring civilized food and offbeat brews to a neighborhood saturated with jumbo slices and Miller Lights. The Black Squirrel—named for the furry critters that Canada gave to the National Zoo back when Teddy Roosevelt was President—replaces T.S. Muttly’s, an Irish pub. Chef/owner Gene Sohn and his partners “got rid of all the green,” recasting the space with red walls, polished wood floors, framed movie posters, and tree-trunk tables.

The Black Squirrel has ditched the decor of its Irish pub predecessor in favor of quirky touches like tree-trunk tables.

Sohn previously worked as a line cook at chef Robert Wiedmaier’s luxe and expensive Marcel’s in DC’s West End. He brought some friends with him from that kitchen to cook at this much more laid-back operation, where the menu of American comfort fare hints at Sohn’s classical French training. Ribs are braised for 24 hours, duck spring rolls are wrapped in feuille de bric, and bacon burgers are stuffed with Brie, “so even if someone asks for it well done, it stays nice.”

The still-growing list of 50 beers (11 on tap) is the domain of co-owner Paul Uppole, who’s been bartending around DC since 1991. He’s got Belgian brews like Chimay on tap, and the bottled selection includes more-exotic finds such as Svyturys, a Lithuanian beer that’s one of Uppole’s personal favorites.

The Black Squirrel serves food until midnight, but Sohn plans to add a menu of “French tapas” priced between $5 and $12 that will be available after midnight. (The bar stays open until last call.)

So far, Sohn has seen a low-key, mostly local crowd: “People seem to come here to escape the rowdies. That was our goal.”The Black Squirrel, 2427 18th St. NW; 202-232-1011. Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 PM until last call. Starters $7 to $9, entrées $8 to $19.