That’s not a bad thing in the minds of owner David Bianconi and managing partner Rich Rores. The Westerville restaurant has one of the most picturesque locations in Central Ohio, situated on the banks of the Hoover Reservoir with an expansive view of the waterfront.

But it’s not the only thing about Bel Lago, which is something Bianconi has fought since acquiring the dining destination in 2008 and he and Rores have tried to change since the latter joined the operation a year ago.

“We knew we had the view, but we can’t live on the view alone,” Bianconi said.

That wasn’t always the case.

Rores said the space’s previous life as the Hoover Grille relied solely on the view and functioned essentially as a seasonal operation. Bianconi struggled to drum up business in the off-months after opening Bel Lago. It also began its new life right in the heart of the recession, a tough time for most restaurants – certainly for unestablished ones that were repositioned – and then even more for those aiming for a more upscale experience.

After a year-plus of wayfinding, Bianconi asked Rores to help right the ship.

Eighteen months into the partnership, nearly every aspect of the restaurant has been remade. Hours have changed, the staff has shrunk, the menu has been focused, the beverage program has been improved and, most notably, a $200,000 renovation helped make the restaurant truly year-round.

The results? Sales are up 12 percent year-over-year, but labor costs are down 15 percent and food and beverage expenses are down as much as 35 percent. This is with fewer hours, too.

money where the mouths are

Bel Lago breaks down into four distinct spaces — a private dining room for up to 20, a main dining room seating 50, a veranda that holds 70 and a rooftop patio accommodating 40.

It wasn’t always that way.

Bianconi made the bold choice last summer to demolish the deck – the restaurant’s biggest selling point – and build a new indoor-outdoor veranda. The project came with a $200,000 price tag and took valuable seating offline right in the peak season. It was some short-term pain for some long-term gain, which began to pay off immediately after the space opened in the waning days of summer.

The investments didn’t stop there. Another $120,000 went into improving the restaurant’s wine program including personnel and technology. The kitchen was remodeled with upgraded equipment, the culinary braintrust was replaced, with salaries for those positions boosted by 35 percent.

These expenses came at a time when the industry, in general, was struggling and operators were more focused on shaving costs and hanging on.

“There’s costs and investments,” Bianconi said. “Costs are what you have to have to stay in the business. Investment is how you run the business. What are you doing to make this entity a unique experience?”

The recast hasn’t been just about figuring out what it had, but also what it didn’t have. One of those things was a steady lunch crowd.

“You have to recognize where you are,” Bianconi said. “We’re so far from a corporate center that there just wasn’t enough business.”

They also looked at food and staff.

Rores said the new chef, in addition to culinary skills, has a financial background that helps control food costs. More work was brought in-house. Rather than buying more in advance and warehousing on-site, multiple deliveries occur each week.

Better labor forecasting began.

“We have to watch the indicators close,” Rores said. “We know we’ll be busier based on temperature or sunshine.”

Though busier and running a more complex business than before, staff is down 10 percent versus last year. Bel Lago employs 70 and can reach 100 workers in the peak season.

extra touches

One of the staff investments is Wine Director Matt Shindler, key to a remade wine program that won a 2012 Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine. Wine sales have doubled in the past year.

Also key to that is the Napa Technology WineStation system that gives Bel Lago the ability to serve high-end wines by the ounce. Rores said the restaurant is the only one in the U.S. to offer Romanée-Conti by the ounce thanks to the system. Opus One and Caymus Reserve are among the other premiere wines often available to diners without having to incur the cost of buying a bottle.

The other push is for more group events.

Rores also runs Sandman Gourmet Catering, which has standing business with several major Central Ohio businesses. He’s used those connections to drive business to the restaurant as well.

“We’ve been getting some of our wheelhouse clients in here for dinner,” he said. “We think it’s starting to take hold. That’s one of our biggest growth opportunities.”

The facility can accommodate parties of between 50 and 100.

The restaurant also has started a concierge program. It’s like a loyalty program, but it’s focused on special occasions, keeping a database of customer birthdays and anniversaries and sending reminders out about those events. For the event itself, Bel Lago partners with an area florist who provides flowers at the table and creates special menus — even personalized with the names — as a keepsake.

“You have to find ways to differentiate yourself,” Bianconi said. “Good food and good service is expected. You don’t get kudos for that. You get kudos for those special touches.”