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Casa Lever “is a new Italian restaurant of the Manhattan old school, built for socialites and those who finance them, staffed by handsome, rakish men with huge wristwatches,” writes Sam Sifton. “The service is appealing, comic-opera stuff. And the food, while basic, is often quite good.” [NYT]
Related: A First Look at Casa Lever, Coming to Lever House Next Week

Sparks “has always been thought of as the finest purveyor of steak in Manhattan, and until now I’ve never had cause to disagree,” begins Alan Richman, ominously. “I have never in my life come upon another restaurant that makes customers feel so wrong if they insist on their food cooked properly. The kitchen correctly prepared two of five strip steaks ordered by the people at my table.” [Forked and Corked/GQ]

“I ended up visiting Best Fuzhou three times. Fortunately for me, the food was spectacular,” says Robert Sietsema of this Chinatown spot. “The Fujianese adore soups, and our hands-down favorite was ‘water melon with fish stomach.’” [VV]