In the Kitchen at Fook Lam Moon

In Hong Kong, Fook Lam Moon is heralded by many locals as the city’s best Cantonese fine-dining restaurant, but it had humble beginnings as a catering business. Founder Chui Fook served many of the city’s wealthiest families in their homes until he set up his own restaurant in 1972. Today, a fleet of dark-tinted windowed cars, owned by the clientele dining upstairs, often lines the unassuming Wan Chai storefront.

Brother and sister Daniel and Michelle Chui — third-generation restaurateurs — recently took over management of the restaurant, and they gave us a private tour of Wan Chai flagship kitchen. The Chui family now has eight additional branches — one in Kowloon, four in Japan and three in mainland China.