On the U bolts this is what the chock looks like http://www.baxleycompanies.com/LAChock.html and I added the u bolts for a little extra over the tubing of the chock in the floor and bolted them in place (one on each side). So my wheel chock was originally in my cargo trailer and I installed it myself making sure to hit the steel frame of the trailer. The u bolts did and the 2 regular bolts did not so I used large washers to insure exta hold. Now this was hauled to Texas from Maine with no problems. My girlfriend and I bought the Mountaineer and the cargo trailer was traded in and part of the deal was for them to install the chock in the RV. Well to make a long story short the tech was good about it and he cut a panal out of the underbelly to access the underside of the floor but he first had to drop the spare tire and frame for the spare tire. He attached the u bolts and the two main bolts into the floor and it seems good. Then made a larger panel and caulked and screwed it into place to make it easy to get to for removal someday! In all it kinda racked up some time and the tech joked about it eating up the salesmens commison!!!
Also since the floor is linolum I put a small square piece of carpet where the front tire rocks forward into the carriage and touches the floor. Mine of course is there and it really isn't in the way! And on the ramp it is kinda steep! Make sure when going in it's really set up right and coming down I would like to use the rear brake but two feet down is beter for me and I seem to half way down (using the front brake only) start to skid but with both feet down I have gotten use to it. On rachet straps I just started to use them. Before all I used was a strap around the front tire to the chock. Once I added the staps all I could get to was the engine guards and at that angle to the rings in the floor was bad and the hooks would pop out when the bikes suspension went up and down (I'm not a big fan of collapsing the suspension when trailering) but a little duck tape around the hooks in the rings fixed it!!! On the back I just wrap a strap around each side of the rear tire and that seems to keep it from going side to side. One more thing make sure the fifth wheel is set up right to your truck (mine was to high in the front) because with weight of a Harley on the right rear coner of the rv my right rear tire showed wear after the first 6000 mile's. Since then I rotated my tires and readjusted the hitch (one hole lower) added airbags to my truck and the last 6000 miles everything looks good. I also try to keep heavy cargo next to the bike or in the front cargo area in the left front! Hope all the info was helpfull..

Here's some info I found somewhere on the internet. I thought it was here but can't find the thread to give the OP credit - sorry about that. But it's good info about tying down:

"I have customer's popping fork seals all the time cause they gotta cinch the 800lbs beast down to death screwing up the weak riser bushings and washers as well so this is a setup I came up with and only uses the frame and requires little to no compression of the forks now this is best for the dresser 's since they have the front engine guard but will work on others that have some type of a horizontal frame piece just under the neck.
To start get a 4" by 12" or 4" by 4"s will work and a couple feet of 2" by 4"s and some 1/4" plywood these only need be a foot to a foot and a half long. Have someone help ya here and have them hold your bike upstrait while you take the block wood and add 2by4s and if needed plywood on top so the whole assembly will just slide under the frame under the motor I built mine so I can kick/shuffle it under the bike while I'm stradeling it myself you can cut the Assembly as long as ya want to stick out the sides. when ya got it figured out screw it all together. You can carpet the top as well.
For tie downs I use softstraps looped around the frame and engine guard in a way that puts the stress on the frame more that the guard bar and then use ratchet straps from the softstraps to the trailer or a bed as long as they secure to the floor forward and to the side's this will pull the bike down and forward and with the ratchet tie downs as you work them they will draw the frame down on the block you made with a minimum of fork compressing and no stress on the handlebar componets and I leave the jiffy stand out which helps loading and unloading."

One other thing I've picked up on the forums is that when backing down the ramp, put the bike in gear and use the clutch to brake. That way you keep both feet on the ramp and avoid having the front tire getting light and skidding on ya. Hope this helps. -Greg

RK Hauler and Mainier,
Your info is right on and I really appreciate your sharing it. Getting anxious for our Mountaineer to arrive--3 more weeks. The tv is nearly ready--gotta put on 500 miles before towing. I really like the block under the frame for the HD, so I am building that unit. RK--have you picked up your trailer and how's it going?
Thanks again, Darrell

We're scheduled to pick it up on 4/5. It's been sitting in the dealer's storage lot since we purchased in Jan. Biggest thing for us right now is figuring out a place to park it here at the house. Hopefully it'll fit where we parked the 30' class A we had about 10 years ago. It's not like we haven't towed camped quite a bit before, but lotsa stuff sure goes through a person's head when getting into a big ole 5er for the first time.

We are looking at the 347 THT as well. I wanted to find out if anyone has loaded sucessfully their Harley Touring model like my Ultra Classic or ElectraGlide with a rear factory tourpak in the 347's garage? I am concerned about the depth of the garage and just wanted to make sure it fits. The local dealers he has but I'm just checking.
Thanks.

We just left OKC for Washington State and are currently broke down in Albuquerue, NM seems the Dexter Axle Co. left to much brake wire near the magnets in the right rear hub and created a short! Lucky for the two year warrenty ...anyway with my LA Chock my front tire is 8 inches from the front wall and the base of my rear fender is 15 inches from the rear door. I have a 2007 Road Glide and I would guess the rear fenders are the same? We bought our 2009 347THT at Fun Time RV in Cleburne, TX might want to compare price if you are looking at the dealer in Midwest City!

That makes me feel ok. The RoadGlide has the same touring family frame so I think I will be ok. I will check with Fun Time. Right now I have Lakeshore RV (from Michigan) & our local MWC, Oklahoma RV dealer competing for the best price.