Description:

This is probably the most popular route on this wall, and can also be an approach route for Solar Slab. Good, but really easy, well protected climbing throughout the climb. This climb starts about 20' left of the Solar Slab Gully. Pitch 1: Scramble up past a tree to a nice ledge with a crack heading straight up the middle of the east facing wall. Follow this crack until it ends, then traverse left to another straight in crack. Follow this to a bolted belay. 120', 5.6 Pitch 2: Head straight up the corner, then step right and follow the face/crack to a big stance, 120', 5.7 Pitch 3: Step right to an arete and climb up and step left after a small roof and follow easy climbing to belay. 100', 5.7 Pitch 4: Head straight up to belay and unrope. 50', 5.2 Variations: There's a BUNCH of Variations to this route. Variation 1) Pitch 1: When the crack ends, you can continue up the face, although its a bit runout, but really easy and then traverse left to belay. Probably 5.6. Variation 2: Pitch 3: Step left and follow the corner up and right (crux) to a bolt, then head up and then left to belay. This variation is the best climbing on the route, well worth it. 5.9 Varitation 3: Pitch 3: After stepping right for the regular route, head straight up along the wall, passing the step left, following the crack to the last belay. 5.7 Descent: You can rappel this route with two ropes, although Solar Slab Gully can be rappelled with one, and I've heard that this route eats ropes quite frequently! Edit: The rappel slings on the top of the 3rd pitch were replaced on 12.21.04