Blanche Vaughan's perfect purple sprouting vinaigrette

It's not quite ready in the garden, but the first purple sprouting broccoli has arrived in the farmers'market. The mild weather we've had up until this past week must have caused this, because usually I'm not used to seeing PSB until early March. But it's good to be reminded of what we should be looking forward to.

Vegetables are always best fresh, and they're even better at the beginning of their season. Those tight bundles of leaves and spears, dark green with a deep purple blush, are a welcome sight on a cold February day.

For me, the first purple sprouting is almost comparable with the first asparagus. Heralding in a new season and full of delicate, green sweetness that needs little preparation to bring out the best in it.

Once trimmed into bite-sized spears, like asparagus, one of the best way to eat them is with your fingers. Steamed lightly and dipped into a thick mustardy, garlicy vinaigrette, nothing more needs to be done for the first of the season enjoyment of this beautiful brassica.

Set a pan of water to boil and either steam the broccoli until tender. (For fresh plants, this will only take a couple of minutes.) If you don't have a steamer, boil for a couple of minutes in salted water, drain and refresh under cold water to keep the stems looking bright and green.

Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. Put the crushed garlic into a bowl and mix with the mustard. Add the vinegar and then slowly pour in the oil, whisking to form a thick emulsion. Season well to taste.

Put the warm broccoli stems on a plate with the vinaigrette for everyone to dip their own.