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Rachel Zoe

locationNew York, 12 September 2012

locationNew York, 12 September 2012

<a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/rachel-zoe">RACHEL ZOE certainly isn't the first stylist-cum-designer, but here in America she's inarguably the most famous. On her reality TV show, The Rachel Zoe Project, we've not only seen the designer's behind-the-seams drama as she dresses Hollywood A-listers, we've come to know her personally, and many are already acquainted with her eclectic personal style. Based in Los Angeles, Zoe is firmly of the camp that believes glamour should be casual and style should be effortless, so it's fitting that she looked to the enduring icon Jane Birkin and the free-spirited draw of actress Talitha Getty as guiding lights for spring/summer 2013.

The collection opened powerfully with graphic black and white contrasts on a suit (blazer thrown over shoulders, of course), with a slack button-down, a colour-blocked dress, or a pleated white maxi edged in black. Zoe said that she was looking to emulate the "androgynous cool" of Birkin and Getty, and she did so by pairing severely tailored menswear pieces - strong-shouldered sport coats, tough leather jackets - with flowing, draped pieces.

This mash-up, a belted, light blue blazer over a floor-sweeping cyan shirt-dress was floaty and romantic, but the jacket elevated it, and displayed its versatility. A languid kaftan, sliding off one shoulder, was undeniably opulent, but Zoe placed a quartet of patch pockets on it to add a sense of utility to the garment, even if they'll likely never be used. Zoe showed a smattering of jumpsuits, which not only looked wearable but when belted or accessorised with dangling tassel necklaces, opened up the possibility to everyday chic for those who simply want to toss something on and head out the door.

Another signature Zoe-ism, mixing evening and day clothes, was a through-line in the collection. Pant suits could be just as fashionable at the office as in the evening, a sparkling T-shirt dress in rich blue was worn with ankle booties and a handbag, and a long jersey skirt was topped with a slouchy grey sweatshirt and oversized sunglasses and a clutch. Who was this mysterious woman, an intriguing mix of formality and offhanded urbanity? Or the closing look, in all white, of a sheer, one-shoulder billowing T-shirt with a glittering white column skirt. The mix of high and low was unexpected and felt fresh. She's could be in Los Angeles in New York, on her way to a film premiere or Sunday brunch. She keeps you guessing, holds your attention, and isn't that a wonderful thing?