ND? If you want to shoot waterfalls or things like that, set the camera to burst mode, fire away, and merge in post. You can then leave your ND as well as your tripod at home.

Interesting idea, I might try that. T.b.h. though I prefer to get it right in-camera. I'm happy to carry a tripod and filters if that's the kind of shot I'm after. I have a superb little tripod that is tiny.

Infrared? For what purpose? There is already an infrared filter on the sensor.

I think he wants infrared shots. The infrared filter on the sensor is to block out infrared which is the opposite of what you need if you want to shoot IR. I do a lot of infrared photography. I used to use infrared filters but I now have a Nikon D200 converted to infrared. However, I would still take an IR filter with me if I didn't want to take another camera.

Possibly. But as you point out, you'd have to convert the camera to IR by removing the infrared filter on the sensor first.

UV for protection? I used to do that but have stopped doing it. Unless you buy very expensive UVs, the coatings makes these filters very difficult to clean, far more difficult than cleaning the front element. They cause additional problems with flare and cost money. I do keep hoods on all my lenses for protection and that has hitherto proven sufficient.

I don't use filters for protection unless conditions warrant that I should. Sometimes they do. not often.

Polarizer? Of questionable value on UWAs because of the uneven effect. 28 mm equivalent is usually considered the limit for succesful use of polarizers. Exceptions might exist but they are pretty rare.

The effect is uneven across the frame, but I still use them. They are excellent for cutting through reflections on water. You can't replicate the effect in PP.

No you can't replicate the effect in PP and as I point out, there might be cases where it could be used to good effect even on a lens as wide as the 7-14. However, due to the uneven effect (on water as well as the sky), that would be the exception rather than the norm.

I also use ND grads. I prefer grads to HDR or other PP. Unless you are highly skilled at PP (and I'm not) I think you are more likely to spoil a shot than enhance it. I've seen so many shots that people post to show off their PP skills where they have lost shadow detail and depth. Grads don't suit every situation but I find them much easier than PP and often much better results.

Here I disagree. If you want good results, it's far better to do this in PP than fiddle with ND grads. How often do you have a perfectly flat horizon, without any protrusions at all?

I also like to use achromatic close-up filters such as the Canon 250D.

So do I. But it's a bad idea to use those on a WA, let alone an UWA. The shorter the FL, the weaker the effect of a close-up lens. The standard rule is to use extension tubes with shorter FLs and close-up lenses with long.

On top of that, your working distance would be practically nil. If you could put a very strong close-up lens like the 250D (+4 diopters) on the 7-14, max magnification would increase from 0.08 to 0.15 (not much to write home about) and the working distance decline from about 15 cm to less than 4 cm.

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