I got the rad hooked up and spent a good hour bleeding the system and I think it is fine.No more bubbles from the bleed screw, everything gets nice and warm and the cooling fan cuts in, maintaining the temp at a steady 90degrees.Just got to rivet the front boot back in now and the jobs a good 'un.

I'd always recommend doing this job "from the top" as its only a 5 minute job to whip out the front boot.

When you are getting fed up with rubbing down bodywork the mind wanders to anything that may be more interesting so I also decided to get the radiator sorted.

The alloy core did not look too bad apart from the bottom where the lower fan mount was quite corroded. A local radiator specialist said he would recore the radiator with a conventional brass/copper core (my preferred choice) for £85.00 plus the VAT. He also replaced the top and bottom frames with ones that had captive nuts, I made up a couple of brackets and refitted the original fan.

I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism. All more interesting than rubbing down that bodywork!

I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism

I would like to re-instate this mechanism on my car but so far haven't managed to find a car with it fitted and working to look at. Could you let us know how you get on, with photos if possible please?

I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism

I would like to re-instate this mechanism on my car but so far haven't managed to find a car with it fitted and working to look at. Could you let us know how you get on, with photos if possible please?

It's fairly straight forward Peter. The bonnet lock mechanism should have a pivoting bar that in one position blocks the bonnet release from operating, and when pivoted the other way allows it to work. So first thing is - is this still fitted?

The cable goes from the lever that is pushed and pulled by the double acting servo that lifts and lowers the light pods. So when the servo pushes the bar forward, the cable is moved and the pivoting bracket on the bonnet mechanism swings around to block the release.

To take photos you need the nose/bumper off, and although my car has a working system the bumper is obviously fitted! If John has his apart, maybe he can takes some photos to post here.

That was what I was hoping. I'm particularly interested in how the outside of the Bowden cable is attached at each end. From my parts book, they appear to use the 'W' shaped spring clips that are used at various places round the car but these don't seem to be easy to obtain so if John or anyone else has a source, or an alternative, I would be interested to hear.

I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism. All more interesting than rubbing down that bodywork!

John

Hi John.

If you haven't mounted the radiator yet, could you tell me its dimentions? I have not had mine out yet, but I am thinking of having it recored like you, or replacing it with a modern alternative, if I can find a match. I am waiting to tackle this until I order stainless heating and cooling tubes from MatraMagic. What is holding me back is that they want as much in shipping cost, as the pipes cost. So I am trying to find a way to get them sent to Denmark cheaper.