Fujifilm X20 Review

Resolution Chart Comparison (JPEG and Raw)

Images on this page are of our standard resolution chart which provides for measurement of resolution up to 4000 LPH (Lines Per Picture Height). A value of 20 equates to 2000 lines per picture height. For each camera we use the relevant prime lens (the same one we use for all the other tests in a particular review). The chart is shot at a full range of apertures and the sharpest image selected. Studio light, cameras set to aperture priority (optimum aperture selected), image parameters default. Exposure compensation set to deliver approximately 80% luminance in the white areas.

What we want to show here is how well the camera is able to resolve the detail in our standard test chart compared to the theoretical maximum resolution of the sensor, which for the charts we shoot is easy to work out - it's simply the number of vertical pixels (the chart shows the number of single lines per picture height, the theoretical limit is 1 line per pixel). Beyond this limit (which when talking about line pairs is usually referred to as the Nyquist frequency) the sensor cannot faithfully record image detail and aliasing occurs.

This limit is rarely attained, because the majority of sensors are fitted with anti-aliasing filters. Anti-aliasing filters are designed to reduce unpleasant moiré effects, but in doing so, they also reduce resolution (the relative strength and quality of these filters varies from camera to camera). In theory though, a sensor without an AA filter, when coupled with a 'perfect' lens, will deliver resolution equal to its Nyquist limit. Therefore, even though it may be effectively unattainable with normal equipment in normal shooting situations, an understanding of a sensor's theoretical limit provides a useful benchmark for best possible performance. Nyquist is indicated in these crops with a red line.

On this page we're looking at both JPEG and Raw resolution. For a (more) level playing field we convert the latter using Adobe Camera Raw. Because Adobe Camera Raw applies different levels of sharpening to different cameras (this confirmed) we use the following workflow for these conversions:

Make 100% crops and save the original file at JPEG quality 11 for download

JPEG (4000 x 3000) 3.1MB

Raw (4000 x 3000) 4.0MB

Vertical resolution

JPEG

Raw

Horizontal resolution

JPEG

Raw

The X20 does better than expected in the resolution test chart. In the JPEG sample, the nine distinct lines last until roughly 2100 LPH. The Raw version gives you a bit more apparent resolution, with the lines disappearing at around 2200 LPH. Artifacting starts to appear as you approach the Nyquist limit, which is not surprising.

Comments

Hello, my camera is Fujifilm X E1, so my supposition may be wrong, but I had similar sitiuation. Problem was that my camera had activated so called "silent mode" - no flash and no sound in silence mode is possible I think.

OK I need a bit of help. I mounted the EF-20 on X-T2. It test fires, its power light is on. I go to flash menu, Flash function setting sna it shows a whit box with Flash Off, I cannot turn it "on".. it does not "click"When I turn on the flash the camera "sees" it but on the info screen continues to show the flash icon as off... at a loss..

X20 forever, yes after 3 years8000 clickx and use for personal travel i am still a fan. This camera from fuji really allows stunning pictures in almost all conditions. Low light autofocus can be difficult at moments but the results are stunning, you can see more than with your own eyes. In camera stabiliasation works effectively. Ok sometimes i really wish for more pixels and even sharper performance but nevertheless i always carry the camera with me, something i stopped doing with my reflex because of weight issues. Battery life is poor and one or 2 spares are needed. Great results with ttl flash 20 from fuji. Find one second hand its better than the x30 keep it with you at all times and enjoy manual and automatic use with great results. It brought back the love for photography for me.

I have the X20 for 3 months. In the A and S modus, the camera produces pictures which are overexposed. Especially during daylight. I don't understand why. Do I do something wrong? Is there a bug in the software (v. 1.02)? I have sent an email to the Dutch Fuji helpdesk, but they don't even bother to give a response. Can anyone help me with this? Example, in the A-modus (with Iso on Auto and after I gave the camera a reset) I took 5 pictures. For every picture I choose a different aperture. The picture was taken of the same scene and all within one minute. The result in speed and Iso were: F Speed Iso2.2 1/1000 1002.5 1/1000 1002.8 1/1300 1003.2 1/1400 1003.6 1/1500 100

Only the last picture with F3.6 had the right exposure.Why does the camera choose a speed of 1/1000 when I pick F2.2, with an overexposed picture as a result. And why NOT (for example) 1/2000 in order to produce a well-exposed picture?The same (reversed) problem happens in the S-modus.

Just got an X20 after much research. Could have waited for X30 but decided that I may then just as well wait for X40, etc. and miss more pictures. I have to say the X20 is excellent (moving from a Nikon D40 + set of lenses plus iPhone 5s). What did I want: small and light to take with me when cycling (and all other times too), a proper high quality viewfinder, a proper zoom ring and decent optical zoom range plus simple exposure control. The X20 delivers in spades. I don't see any rivals with those features - well done Fuji for designing cameras for photographers who enjoy the tactile feel of real camera controls.

The trend runs increasingly stronger toward compacts that pack lots of power, and it's a trend that seems to be continuing full steam ahead. The X20 is one of the important players in the field and has been holding a respectable place for a year now. Competition keeps springing up, with more features in ever smaller bodies, so is the X30 just around the corner?

Alex More is right, we all run and hope and buy to find always a deception somewhere. I sometimes take a old Pentax , Nikkormat and veven a Minox, I shoot, develop and digitalise and : the result is sure there !

@madmaxmedia - thanks for your feedback. Agreed that the smudging is not due to the lack of AA filter. The real issue as you also point out is most likely the aggressive use of NR even at base ISO. I think the lack of AA filter emphasizes this problem even more. Glad to read that at least the raw files are better in this respect.

@inspireddan- I don't think the smudging is due to the lack of AA filter, it's due to increased noise reduction. The X20 RAW files are great. But the JPEG's are worse than the X10 in the opinion of many who have used both. It's too bad, I really like my X10 and would otherwise upgrade to the X20 (I mostly shoot JPEG).

Dear Fuji,Why would you remove the optical AA filter if there is "smudge [of] fine details (even at ISO 100)"? Not having a filter may be okay on a larger sensor which captures more light (such as in the X100), but on smaller sensor it may only emphasize this problem. I don't have an X20 but on my F45FD (same as F40FD), I also notice smudging of fine details at base ISO, especially around the edges of objects. If I apply slight blurring in post, the picture looks much better. I can't help but think that have that camera not had an AA filter, the smudging problem would have been even more noticeable.Thanks,-Dan

Oh, what a continuing disappointment...! Digital camera engineering deserves better.Mirrorless rangefinder cameras with manual focus should be a done deal by now. I suppose I'm as easily seduced by novelty features and shiny new digital gizmos as most, and to be fair to all the gadget-heads who are prepared to put up with costly digital gear that looks OK on the outside but still doesn't deliver then you have to admit that Fuji's corporate profit-taking is not as mean as the rest. I mean, it's nice to see Fuji is keeping some form of stabilising eye-level viewfinder. These are time-tested. They not only allow image composition in bright daylight but help steady a camera, something not possible using cut-rate contemporary mirroless, viewfinderless digital toy still and mobile/cell phone cameras at absurd arms-length fashion.

Look, as much as I'd really like a mirorless digital that doesn't come with a Leica price tag I'll continue to use a standard DSLR and wait until Fuji -or someone else uses better sensors, with proper size - or at the very least APS-H to produce a usable camera that can perform for photojournalsm at an artisan cost below the badge price of the Germans.Otherwise there's no point moving away from a so-called 'full frame' (35mm equivalent) sensor DSLR, unless your personal wealth or your work or hobby can justify a good camera like a Leica.I accept I'm being cynical to make a point against the plethora of gushing reviews for sub-standard compromise digital gear, but most of the mirrorless cameras are not much better than toys that deliver passable back-lit and email images. These cameras are not ideal for photojournalism.

Alex, I'm SO enjoying your comments. I was a film shooter (1960s-1980s, Nikkormat FTn). I've tried to be happy using a Leica D-Lux 5, but screen scrolling is so frustrating, as is the lack of a viewfinder. I'm a 70 yr old woman now and I want one more chance to 'meet' a camera that melds with me (manual, f-stops on the lens, external shutter speed knob, full-frame viewfinder. If I can't find this 'in digital' I just might buy an old Nikkormat !! Do you feel the Fuji X100S is a fairly good choice? It's on Alamy's list of acceptable cameras.

I am in my late 60's and recently bought a Fuji X-A1 and a X-E1 as lightweight more compact alternatives to my SLR gear, with a view to switching systems. I am finding the transition a bit of a chore. The X-A1 is great indoors and in overcast conditions but difficult to use in full sun owing to the lack of hood or VF; the solution would be buy a hood or a loupe. The X-E1 is easier for me to use with the EVF even with spectacles, but I find both slow to focus compared to my SLRs, so I tend to use the AF lock or focus manually. Quality is acceptable but I find RAW images require more adjustment (especially at higher ISO) than RAW images from my SLRs. I guess as with everything there are compromises and I will become more competent with longer use. I absolutely love the build quality and ergonomics, much better than most of the competition. If you get the chance, try out the X-E1 or X-E2 or even X-T1 before making a decision, especially if you can get one to try for a day or two.

Sure, we can have debates about rare-earth scarcity and high cost sensor manufacturer profitability and difficulties finding cheap labour in fringe junge factories to make cheap cameras and optics, as well as fitting it all in a look-alike traditional film camera platform. But aren't image and print quality and the ability to crop more important? As is the camera's purpose as a tool to serve a photographer's eye, the picture you perceive in your mind the instant you decide to trip a shutter and use light to create an image with minimal patchwork PS 'processing'...?A camera is an instrument. It should measure against an ideal. All else follows, including economics. But, in three simple words this camera has:

Everyone's 'ideal' is different. In your comments you are coming from a perspective of a professional that is meeting technical requirements from news agencies, etc.

I don't see anywhere in any reviews or Fuji documentation that this camera is intended for that purpose. If anything, it's an expensive yet high quality point and shoot for people (probably hobbyists) who appreciate good color reproduction in a small, light body. Maybe it's great for someone who doesn't want to carry their DLSR around all the time, and also doesn't have $2,500 for a full frame compact with no viewfinder.

It is really a great camera and I use it (more and more) besides or instead my Nikon 300s. One really serious flaw is the original battery (1000 mA) - it starts to collapse after 20 photos (is new!). The newly bought second one manages 100 pics (with less than 10 flash photos) but that is still far below useful number. Bought now aftermarket one (1400 mA) and hope it will solve my problem. My advice is to have full backup battery ready anytime!

This kind of background blur, even at 112mm, is never going to isolate a subject against the background. The background is still distracting.Your picture is misleading, btw, because the background is very far away here.Put this guy against a background that is 10m away, and you'll see (almost) as much detail there as in the subject's face.Anybody looking for a decent background blur should buy a camera with a 1 inch or bigger sensor.

This is a very detailed review, and plenty informative if you're looking to buy this camera. I actually got the camera based on this review and the opinions in the forum. What better place to go to for camera-related stuff than DPreview?

Alamy's a good place to begin. Most on-line reviews are subjective. Agences like Alamy must maintain image quality standards to keep credibility with publshers who buy images and complete pro phojournalism stories. Cameras they approve are a good starting point.

I disagree with the non pro use comment - I work for a large newspaper in Europe - I use this as a back up to my NikonD800 and Mamiya RZ67 when street photo style is needed for true look . Liecas are not so expensive as you think - try hiring one. That said I would only replace the X20 with either Sony R1, Sigma DP2 Merrell .

I haven't owned a camera in 20 years; almost bought a compact point-and-shoot on sale, but started looking at larger compacts (Canon G16, Fuji x20, some of the smallest 4/3). Can't imagine not having a viewfinder, but the G16's and apparently this one's aren't very good, it seems. Any recommendations for something I can both use automatically and set manually if I get the urge to really learn?

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