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Oenotri

The soulful food of Southern Italy is well represented at this downtown Napa restaurant. Chef-owners Curtis Di Fede and Tyler Rodde, both Napa natives, worked at the groundbreaking Oliveto in Oakland before opening here. The daily changing menu might include mussels with saffron anchovy broth with grilled radicchio; spaghetti with swordfish confit; and squab, feet still attached, roasted in the wood oven with cherries and natural juices. The restaurant is located in a new building, but the open kitchen, unfinished ceiling and concrete floors make it unkind to the ears.