Saturday, November 17, 2012

Fabulous Dining in Rome's Jewish Quarter

Nonna Betta logo features a scroll made of pasta and rolling pins

The Jewish Quarter of Rome is an area that I have always
enjoyed and in which I spend a lot of time whenever I am in Rome. Located
across the Tiber in Trastevere, some of Rome’s best restaurants are found in this
area. Rome’s Jewish quarter once
contained one of the oldest Jewish Ghettos in the world, having been
constructed only 40 years after the Jewish Ghetto of Venice, which was the
oldest. For more than 300 years, beginning in 1555 with the construction of the
walled city, until 1848 when it was abolished and the walls destroyed, the
Ghetto was home to Rome’s sizable Jewish population as well as the oldest
synagogue of Europe. A beautiful orthodox temple in which men and women worship separately,
sadly today the temple is continuously guarded by armed police.

Artichokes alla Giudea or Jewish style.

From a culinary perspective, it has been argued that the
most authentic Roman cuisine is found in Jewish Roman cooking. Roman Jews are
credited with preserving, within the walled city, recipes that date back 1500
years. Today, the great culinary traditions of Rome are best savored in the
Jewish Quarter, which is lined with wonderful restaurants that cater to
visitors and locals alike.

Squash blossoms filled with mozzarella and anchovy and deep fried.

A seasonal specialty that absolutely is not to be missed is the artichoke.
Roman artichokes differ from American varieties because they do not have a
coarse beard at the center and they are so tender they can be eaten raw. Common
preparations include steamed with fresh mint; finely sliced, raw, dipped in
vinaigrette; or my favorite, alla Giudea
or Jewish style, where trimmed artichokes are flattened into a flower shape and
deep fried so that stem and tender leaves are eaten all together.I can think of nothing more satisfying, as
the textures and flavors of this dish cover all bases: crunchy outer leaves; a
tender center; the sweetness of the young artichoke and the salt of the
preparation.My husband and I resolved
to eat sensibly and got one order to share but upon seeing it arrive at our table, we
immediately felt compelled to order another….and another!

Delicious pasta cacio e pepe e cicoria from Nonna Betta restaurant.

Another seasonal specialty not to be missed is the squash
blossom, classically prepared by stuffing it with mozzarella and anchovy, dipping in a flour
pastel and deep frying. The use of squash blossoms is very common in Italian
cooking and can be found in pasta, risotto, even pizza. Dinner one night was
at the famous Roman pizzeria Ai Marmi,
where my husband and I enjoyed a novel twist on the classic recipe--pizza with squash
blossoms, mozzarella and anchovy topping.

This time of year you can also find “puntarelle alla Romana”
tender chicory shoots that have been crisped and curled in cold water and
served with anchovy vinaigrette.A
favorite Roman vegetable, cicoria
or chicory is also very commonly throughout Italy.I enjoy cicoria in just about everything but I especially
appreciate when it is steamed and graces the classic pasta
cacio e pepe dish-- the oldest of Roman pasta recipes, made simply with cacio
sheep cheese, butter and black pepper.

These delicious dishes are found in restaurants throughout
Rome and the Jewish Quarter, but two in particular stand out for me and are
consistently excellent. Nonna Betta, which translates as “grandmother
Betta” is charming, well managed and has great kosher Roman Jewish cuisine.
Nonna Betta actually was the grandmother of the owner and matriarch of a family
who has lived in the Jewish quarter for many generations.

The chef at Giardino Romano enjoys late night people watching while preparing artichokes for the following day.

Next door to Nonna Betta is Giardino Romano.
Despite the proximity of the two restaurants the menus are very different and I
would recommend trying both. Giardino Romano is Jewish but not strictly kosher
and has other classic Roman dishes containing ham products, such as pasta alla carbonara and all’amatriciana, as well as shell fish, trippa (tripe), and abbacchio or lamb. Of interest at Giardino Roman is the charming indoor
dining room which has been built around the preserved ruins of a 16th
century building. I have attached a
photo of the chef at Giardino Romano, sitting late at night at one of the
outdoor tables, trimming artichokes in preparation for the following day. The
scene was so delightful, and the chef extremely gracious to allow me to
photograph him.
﻿

A gorgeous sidewalk display greets visitors at Giardino Romano.

Join me later as we explore the International Film Festival
of Rome, and then make our way to Sicily.

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About Me

Rosetta Sciacca Volkov was born and grew up in the western-most part of the island of Sicily, in the ancient Phoenician settlement of Marsala. True to the spirit of her adventure-faring Phoenician ancestors, Rosetta emigrated to United States, returning to Italy some 10 years later and settling in Rome. She returned to the U.S. for university and later began her family there, but has never drifted far from her Sicilian roots. Educated in both countries and immersed in the culture and language of each, she seamlessly bridges both worlds. Rosetta's profound love for and attachment to the traditional ways of her native Sicily, along with its cuisine, literature, history and visual and performing arts, represent an important part of her life. Painter, writer, chef and businesswoman, Rosetta and her husband, Michael Volkov, divide their time between San Diego,CA, Washington DC, and Marsala, Sicily, maintaining residences there.