ARTICLES OF CLOTHING that are referred to by proper names are: a) generally not even close to being a recent invention; b) usually have some kind of attendant lore—whether true, half-true or pure fiction. Such is the case with the Chesterfield, the slim, straight-cut and velvet-collared overcoat that has endured since the mid-19th century as a gentleman's riposte to the elements.

Its name comes either from the Earl of Chesterfield—fourth or sixth, depending on whom you ask—or simply the town in the English region of Derbyshire. "The origin [of the name] is not immediately clear," said
Jenny Lister,
fashion curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. "But it was used as a marketing tool by coat manufacturers of the 1840s to attach it to a person of influence, which at that time was usually a titled aristocrat, even if he never actually wore or promoted the style."

The moniker, however, stuck—as did the style, which recently cropped up in the fall collections of several labels including Prada, Burberry, Rag & Bone, Gucci and Marc Jacobs. The coat's essential but elegant design has always made it a canvas for men to project their own vision of themselves, whether that's a discreet gentleman of a certain class, a Teddy boy, a punk or something in between. That make-it-your-own quality is also likely what perennially appeals to menswear designers.

This season's versions include Burberry's classic camel coat with a lean silhouette toughened up by a black leather collar. In the Prada men's collection, featuring
Miuccia Prada's
interpretation of men's basics, the designer opted for the traditional velvet collar, but offered it in a variety of colors—from black and fawn to a chic, slightly lurid cherry red.

New York label Rag & Bone's version, which the designers, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, named the Liverpool, was tweaked in both fabrication and cut. The duo distorted a traditional Prince of Wales pattern on heavy wool to make something that resembles tribal upholstery. The fit, Mr. Wainwright explained, "was altered by dropping the break point of the lapels and the button positioning to give an oversize feel to the traditional proportion." Their top collar is dark cashmere.

A looser cut, like Rag & Bone's, is helpful for those who have to wear a suit underneath. If the cut of the coat is especially slim,
Toby Bateman,
buying director of men's retail website Mr Porter, recommends choosing one size larger than usual, or looking to more traditionally tailored brands, whose outerwear should easily fit over a suit jacket.

But what about the guys who don't have to wear a suit? Mr. Bateman suggested a slimmer coat over a sweater and smart trousers with thick-soled oxfords. "But make sure it's versatile, since you're going to wear it more than other pieces in your wardrobe."

Ms. Lister of the V&A Museum said that there aren't many preserved Chesterfield specimens from the last century. "Men didn't really keep them as an object to treasure; they just wore them to death," she explained. "I don't think that has changed all that much."

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