Three Rivers, one of the four mill-era villages in the town of Palmer, might seem like an unlikely place to find sophisticated Italian fare.

Yet thanks to Pinocchio's Ristorante, that little community does indeed host a noteworthy Old World dining venue.

Located in a modest-looking structure just north of the village center, Pinocchio's is an establishment with dual decorative identities. The first is a comfortable neighborhood lounge in which a stool bar and pub height seating are available.

he adjacent dining room is more upscale, with a visual vocabulary that would rival that of a more cosmopolitan location.

We began with an order of Lobster Risotto Croquettes ($11), a hearty but polished first course option. Two hamburger-sized patties of rice, fresh mozzarella, and chopped lobster meat had been breaded with panko crumbs and deep-fried. Cut into half-moon segments, the cakes were presented in a mild, sherry-laced lobster sauce. Tasty but filling, we noted, and thus better enjoyed as a small plate dinner than ordered as starter.

An order of four Meatballs ($10) was equally hearty, with tender, golf-ball-sized orbs presented in a roasted garlic tomato sauce. Fresh ricotta stirred into the sauce contributed an element of creaminess, keeping the experience remarkably well balanced, with no trace of residual tomato acidity.

Arranged on a mound of mashed potatoes and surrounded by a saffron cream sauce, Haddock Zafferano ($20) brought together a pan-seared haddock filet with a colorful garnish of crabmeat and roasted red peppers. The resulting flavor interplay was subtle; the crabmeat and the saffron sauce were somewhat overshadowed by the distinctive tang of the red peppers.

Finishing off the plate presentation was a zucchini and carrot vegetable medley that added color and texture.

Dinner entrees at Pinocchio's don't include a side of greens, although a dinner salad can be purchased for an additional $3. Bread, butter, and seasoned oil are, however, part of the deal.

Pinocchio's maintains a wine list of about four dozen labels from around the globe, with producers from Italy and California particularly well represented. Bottle prices are clustered around the $35 mark.

The Creme Brulee ($5) we sampled was a fairly standard version of that popular dessert option. Topped with a light sugar crust, the custard had a smooth texture and well-developed vanilla flavor.

A hint of cinnamon characterized the Cannoli ($6) shell we crunched our way through. The taste bud profile of the smooth mascarpone filling was mostly about vanilla, without the citrus and chocolate notes often encountered therein.

Both desserts were decorated with whipped topping and a chocolate drizzle. The lunch menu at Pinocchio's incorporates entrees like chicken Marsala, fish & chips, and pasta with Bolognese sauce as well as wraps, pizzas, and calzones.

Take out is also part of the restaurant's strategy, with pasta bucket family meals available in versions such as chicken fradiavolo, pasta with meatballs, and steak gorgonzola.

We enjoyed our visit to Pinocchio's Ristorante and endorse the operation as a first-rate source of carefully crafted Italian food.