The dawn of a new race age

The past 50 years in fashion at the Melbourne Cup

1965: Jean Shrimpton, one of the world’s first supermodels, caused fashion controversy at the 1965 Melbourne Cup by wearing a mini-dress five inches above her knees. Taking the horses off the front page of the following days newspapers, the 22-year-old’s legs became the “legs that stopped a nation.” Snubbing the iron-clad conventions at fashionable Flemington in her mini-dress, Shrimpton dressed down the look with no hat, no gloves and no stockings….outrageous. Fairfax Photographic.

1965: For Shrimpton’s next appearance at the carnival, Melbourne milliner Adele Chapeaux was employed to create a hat. The model compiled for a day but by the end of the carnival she had converted back to her trademark stripped-back mod look. Fairfax Photographic.

1966: The Shrimpton legacy saw a vast number of mini-dresses at the Melbourne Cup in the following year. This was very much a pivotal moment in the introduction of the mini-skirt to an international stage. Despite the raised eyebrows caused by the dress, Melbourne designers copied the fashion icon in droves. The following year, newspaper The Age reported: "Last year's controversial Miss Shrimpton would have passed unnoticed in the crowd this year. Anyone with hemlines below the knee looked very 'old hat.' " Fairfax Photographic.

1969: Cowboy hats and short skirts were a winner at the Melbourne Cup. Fairfax Digital images.

1970: Kay McKay of Carnegie at the 1970 Melbourne Cup in a maxi dress and wide-brimmed hat that would be the envy of many modern day race goers. Fairfax Photographics.

1972: Pantsuits were making a name for themselves by the 70s. Mrs George Wakefield of Brighton, Victoria, track-side at the Melbourne Cup Day social at Flemington. Fairfax Photographics.

1973: Jean Shrimpton, or "The Shrimp" as she became known made, a less controversial return to the Melbourne Cup in 1973. She posed at Flemington on the same spot where her five inches above the knee mini skirt first shocked the matrons of the VRC in 1965. Now 30-years-of-age, her skirt was fractionally longer than on her previous visit. Fairfax Photographic.

1976: With Fashion on the Field folding in 1971 due to economic reasons, The Sun newspaper ran a ‘Pick a Fashion Double’ competition for the most stylish couple in 1976. Helen and Kevin Nixon were the winners. Fairfax Photos

1979: Two Melbourne fashion icons, Zandra Rhodes and Lillian Frank, set the pace at the 1979 Melbourne Cup. Fairfax Photograpics.

1980: All the taste of the 80s encapsulated in two matching outfits. It's classy stuff. Fairfax Digital images.

1980s: With the return of prosperity in the 80s there came the reinstatement of the fully fledged Fashions on the Field competition. This was a great decade for the event as sponsorship increased, the prize pool expanded and media coverage grew. Well known judges came to the event and celebrities and contestants flocked to Flemington for the fashion. On show throughout the 80s cup days were all the era had to offer: puffy shirts, shoulder pads, huge earrings, strong colour combinations and striking designs. Fairfax Photographic.

1984: Shoulder pads, androgenous and the nautical look all rolled into one outfit - who didn't love the 80s. The look was captured by a jaunty Lesley Mendelson, at the Melbourne Cup. Fairfax Photographics.

1984: Lillian Frank rocks it with a big hat at the Melbourne Cup. Fairfax Digital images.

1985: The 80s in all it's puffy sleeved, scrunched taffeta, permed hair glory. Faces and fashion in the crowd at the 1985 Melbourne Cup. Fairfax Photographic

1985: Diana, Princess of Wales, together with her husband Prince Charles were special guests at the 1985 Melbourne Cup. Diana impressed the Melbourne establishment with a black and white suit by Bruce Oldfield and matching hat by Frederick Fox. Even her stockings were photographed and commented on as she wore tights with a seam running down the back and a bow motif at the bottom near her shoe. Fairfax.

1985: Before Byrnne and when Gabi was just a sparkle in her father's eye, Leanne Edelsten reigned supreme as Dr Geoffrey Edelsten’s 80s trophy wife. This picture was taken in the midst of their marriage. Here a 22-year old Leanne channels Disney's Tinkerbell. With a messy up do and some rather delicate un-80’s like jewelry, Leanne managed to pull it off and still look sweet. Of course a display of well-tanned chest and toned thigh added a sexy touch. Fairfax.

1996: It was all about big hats and fitted suits in the 90s. Fairfax Digital images.

1994: Shiny green peddle pushers and matching long coat and hat and large flowing sleeves take this outfit from the everyday to Melbourne Cup day. Fairfax Digital images.

1996: The 90s were a quiet time at the Melbourne Cup for celebrities. During this decade Fashions on the Field had carved a niche for itself. The 90s saw fashion take on a bright, colourful line as this citrus green, fitted suit will attest. In 1999 Myer returned as sponsor to Fashions on the Field, making fashion a huge focus for Melbourne Cup day ever since. Getty Images.

1996: Fitted suits and hats in brights were the go in the 90's. Fairfax digital images.

2000: A new millennium makes for some bold choices in fashion. Fairfax digital images.

2003: Paris and Nicky Hilton changed the face of fashion at the cup in 2003 when they minced into Flemington in super skimpy outfits. Many considered Paris’ midriff baring outfit and Nicky’s strappy nightie like dress inappropriate for the VCR dress codes. Sponsored by Channel 7, the Hilton’s visit sharpened the appetite for celebrities at the cup. While it may not have been a style high point for the spring carnival, it can’t be denied the sisters left their mark. Getty Images.

2005: The Melbourne Cup carnival proved to be a colourful one with Hollywood guest Eva Longoria, star of Desperate Housewives, taking top billing. Dressed brightly in a coral georgette dress, matching cropped cardigan by Alex Perry and Jane Lambert head piece, Eva turned heads wherever she went as guest judge for Fashions on the Field at Derby Day. Fairfax Photos.

2005: Carrying on the colour, Georgie Clark in a daring red halter-neck dress and hat in 2005. Getty images.

2006: US actor Kate Bosworth stole the show in a short, white, lace Collette Dinnigan number, at Derby Day. Giving us extra value for our fashion dollar Kate gave us two different dresses to the same event adhering to the traditional black and white color scheme on both occasions. Getty Images.

2006: Most fashion commentators gave Kate and her dresses the thumbs up, however her choice of unconventional head wear did cause controversy. While many canned her choice of the necklace like piece in place of a hat or fascinator, many other race goers have followed her lead since including Australia's own Jennifer Hawkins in 2012. Getty Images.

2007: Did someone say Jennifer Hawkins? What Melbourne Cup fashion retrospective would be complete without her. The former Miss Universe sizzled in a short off-the-shoulder fuchsia Zayt dress. She accessorised the look with a black wide-brimmed Philip Rhodes hat and oversized patent clutch. Picture-perfect as always, Jen proved a fitting celebrity judge for Myer’s Fashion on the Field competition. Getty Images.

2007 Not to be outdone, although not in attendance for Melbourne Cup day, Megan Gale was in first place in the fashion stakes on Derby Day 2007 with this Alex Perry number accentuating every curve. Getty Images.

2010: Model Georgia May Jagger and her mother Jerry Hall were special guests at Crown Oaks Day at Flemington in 2010 as judges for Fashions on the Field. Both mother and daughter impressed with their effortless style and judging decisions.
Getty Images.

2011: Modern style icon Sarah Jessica Parker was flying the fashion flag on Crown Oaks Day in 2011. SJP wore a pale pink and ivory tea-length dress from Jonathan Saunders 2012 Spring/Summer collection with a metallic silver jacket by Antonio Berardi. Her voluminous up do was pinned with a spectacular diamond brooch and a string of pearls around her neck completed the look. Of course her shoe wear of choice was a trusty Manolo Blahnik pump in white. Getty Images.

2011: Sarah Jessica Parker with the Manolo Blahnik shoes she help to popularise as Carrie Bradshaw on Sex in the City. Getty Images.

2012: Hollywood actor Mischa Barton was special guest at the 2012 Melbourne Cup. Mischa, covered up in a sequined, draped plum dress made especially for her by Australian designer Kym Ellery. The outfit was styled with a Louis Vuitton clutch and shoes, gold Karen Walker sunglasses, Cartier jewellery and a Philip Treacy hat.
Getty Images.

2012: A close up of Mischa Barton's Philip Treacy hat. Getty images.

2012: Nicole Kidman was special guest at Derby Day 2012 wowing the crowd in a stunning black and white L’Wren Scott dress inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s iconic role in My Fair Lady. Looking every inch the perfectly polished lady, Nicole’s outfit set the tone for the day. Getty Images.

2013: Chloe Moo from Sydney won the Myer Fashions on Field at the Melbourne Cup 2013 and went on to be the Myer Fashions on the Field National Winner on Crown Oaks Day. Nineteen-year-old Chloe was a standout at the spring carnival in an original outfit by Raw Cloth from the Northern Territory. Her dress was a red, white and black textured print dress which she paired with a perfectly co-ordinated feather millinery, red clutch and red and black pumps. Getty Images.

2013: Jerry Hall is no stranger to the Melbourne Spring Carnival. In 2013 the model, actor and ex-Mrs Jagger dressed in true race day spirit for the Melbourne Cup. Adding some local interest the international trend-setter wore a black and white silk striped trouser suit from Australian designers Sass & Bide. Hall matched the ensemble with a JD Mannington hat. Getty Images.

2013: Celebrity style came in the form of model, actress, singer, author, burlesque dancer and entrepreneur Dita Von Teese. Dressed in a classy white skirt suit exposing a sexy purple bustier top, her hat was adorned with gorgeous pink and white orchids, spilling into a corsage. Getty Images.

In 2011 model Megan Gale started a debate when she made a head-turning entrance at the David Jones marquee in a hot pink Lisa Ho pantsuit and matching hat.

But, despite those stellar examples, race-days are often awash in a sea of racegoers wanting to fit in, rather than stand out, wearing the same types of dresses, from the same designers, accessorised in the same way.

Designer Alex Perry hopes that a new racing age is dawning.

“I have always thought that Melbourne girls had a real handle on edgy fashion, but sometimes they lose it a little bit on the racetrack – they can reference things from the '40s and '50s too heavily, and it looks like they are wearing a costume.”

He has tried to help girls out of the ‘racing uniform’ by creating “things that are simple in beautiful shades, that just push the envelope a bit.”

And now it seems there are more who want to take a risk.

Designer Bianca Spender realised she predicted her spring range entirely incorrectly, in that she presumed the out-there pieces would be ones that were slower to sell.

“I've done the most colourful collection I've ever done, and I did one trench in lilac. I loved it but I thought it would sell the most in black and navy. But lilac has beaten those colours hands down. I found that it's the colours that are getting really embraced,”

To what does she attribute that shift in buyers' mood?

“I think there's a lot of frustrations and real pressures that people are going through in life,” Spender says, “When people are in that state of mind, they're open to challenging ideals, giving us a change in the way we dress.”

In the way Jean Shrimpton shocked the world with her mini and no stockings, I have a feeling we're going to see that sort of thing at the races all over again.

And let's be clear about one thing: breaking the fashion rules doesn't mean breaking the dress code, which is only for certain sections of the racetrack, anyway.

Kara Baker never set out to make clothes specifically for the races, but she's a Melbourne designer who has discovered that lately women have been veering towards her designs – which she calls ‘modesty dressing’.

She feels that women can be fashion forward at the races, while still adhering to the dress code.

“I'm really into a midi length, finishing about five inches above your ankle bone, so that it's not a maxi dress but it does give you a slightly '70s or '40s look. It's feminine and elegant but it's also covered up – it's the opposite of the sea of stretch lace dresses we saw at the races last year.”

If racegoers start dressing with a keener eye, it will be none too soon for milliner Melissa Jackson, who thinks some women are stuck in a time warp.

“In the Fashion on the Field enclosure, there are still people dressing in a 1950s style, when obviously we're in 2017. People borrow so much from other people's style, and that's when it starts to blend and look the same.”

And, this is the year where it seems that all designers are trying to make sure their offerings are unique.

Thurley's Helen O'Connor designs outfits that are much-coveted for the races, and this year she has tried to inject them with a twist, “using rivets and studs and chain to embellish my feminine laces, giving them a surprising and masculine edge.”

Stylist Lana Wilkinson, who will be working with celebrities at both this year's Caulfield Cup and Melbourne Cup Carnivals, says she expects to see “a lot of wide brim hats, turbans and headscarves, with designers using shoulder pads, ruffles and nods to the '80s.”

“I feel like fashion is having the most fun it's had in almost a decade.”