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This week, Zachary Feldman reviews North River (166 First Avenue, 212-228-1200), an East Village restaurant that bears the old Dutch name for a section of the Hudson, and deals in "freewheeling food" from "Adam Starowicz, a Momofuku...

As the Hudson River winds its way down to New York Harbor, its waters pass by the craggy cliffs and charming river towns of the Hudson Valley, a meandering gateway to the Atlantic Ocean. The valley has long served as inspiration for...