The
fur trade, from the earliest settlement of Canada, was considered of
the first importance to that colony. The country was then so
populous, that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the animals
whose skins were precious, in a commercial view, soon became very
scarce, if not altogether extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at
former periods, but merely for food and clothing. The Indians,
therefore, to procure the necessary supply, were encouraged to
penetrate into the country, and were generally accompanied by some of
the Canadians, who found means to induce the remotest tribes of
natives to bring the skins which were most in demand, to their
settlements, in the way of trade.

It
is not necessary for me to examine the cause, but experience proves
that it requires much less time for a civilized people to deviate
into the manners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise
into a state of civilisation. Such was the event with those who thus
accompanied the natives on their hunting and trading excursions; for
they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost
all relish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they
derived the title of Coureurs des Bois, became a kind of pedlars, and
were extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who
gave them the necessary credit to proceed on their commercial
undertakings. Three or four of these people would join their stock,
put their property into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked
themselves, and either accompanied the natives in their excursions,
or went at once to the country where they knew they were to hunt. At
length, these voyages extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they
returned with rich cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of
the natives. During the short time requisite to settle their accounts
with the merchants, and procure fresh credit, they generally
contrived to squander away all their gains, when they returned to
renew their favourite mode of life: their views being answered, and
their labour sufficiently rewarded, by indulging themselves in
extravagance and dissipation, during the short space of one month in
twelve or fifteen.

This
indifference about amassing property, and the pleasure of living free
from all restraint, soon brought on a licentiousness of manners which
could not long escape the vigilant observation of the missionaries,
who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace to the
Christian religion; by not only swerving from its duties themselves,
but by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the natives who
had become converts to it; and, consequently, obstructing the great
object to which those pious men had devoted their lives. They
therefore exerted their influence to procure the suppression of these
people, and accordingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to
traffic with the Indians, without a license from the government.

At
first these permissions were, of course, granted only to those whose
character was such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the
missionaries: but they were afterwards bestowed as rewards for
services, on officers, and their widows; and they, who were not
willing or able to make use of them (which may be supposed to be
always the case with those of the latter description), were allowed
to sell them to the merchants, who necessarily employed the Coureurs
des bois, in quality of their agents; and these people, as may be
imagined, gave sufficient cause for the renewal of former complaints;
so that the remedy proved, in fact, worse than the disease.

At
length, military posts were established at the confluence of the
different large lakes of Canada, which, in a great measure checked
the evil consequences that followed from the improper conduct of
these foresters, and, at the same time, protected the trade. Besides,
a number of able and respectable men, retired from the army,
prosecuted the trade in person, under their respective licences, with
great order and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as,
in those days, was considered to be an astonishing effort of
commercial enterprize. These persons and the missionaries having
combined their views at the same time, secured the respect of the
natives, and the obedience of the people necessarily employed in the
laborious parts of this undertaking. These gentlemen denominated
themselves commanders, and not traders, though they were entitled to
both those characters: and, as for the missionaries, if sufferings
and hardships in the prosecution of the great work which they had
undertaken, deserved applause and admiration, they had an undoubted
claim to be admired and applauded: they spared no labour and avoided
no danger in the execution of their important office; and it is to be
seriously lamented, that their pious endeavours did not meet with the
success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace to be found
beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious functions.

The
cause of this failure must be attributed to a want of due
consideration in the mode employed by the missionaries, to propagate
the religion of which they were the zealous ministers. They
habituated themselves to the savage life, and naturalized themselves
to the savage manners, and, by thus becoming dependent, as it were,
on the natives, they acquired their contempt rather than their
veneration. If they had been as well acquainted with human nature, as
they were with the articles of their faith, they would have known
that the uncultivated mind of an Indian must be disposed by much
preparatory method and instruction to receive the revealed truths of
Christianity, to act under its sanctions, and be impelled to good by
the hope of its reward, or turned from evil by the fear of its
punishments. They should have begun their work by teaching some of
those useful arts which are the inlets of knowledge, and lead the
mind by degrees to objects of higher comprehension. Agriculture, so
formed to fix and combine society, and so preparatory to objects of
superior consideration, should have been the first thing introduced
among a savage people: it attaches the wandering tribe to that spot
where it adds so much to their comforts; while it gives them a sense
of property, and of lasting possession, instead of the uncertain
hopes of the chase, and the fugitive produce of uncultivated wilds.
Such were the means by which the forests of Paraguay were converted
into a scene of abundant cultivation, and its savage inhabitants
introduced to all the advantages of a civilised life.

The
Canadian missionaries should have been contented to improve the
morals of their own countrymen, so that by meliorating their
character and conduct, they would have given a striking example of
the effect of religion in promoting the comforts of life to the
surrounding savages; and might by degrees have extended its benign
influence to the remotest regions of that country, which was the
object, and intended to be the scene, of their evangelical labours.
But by bearing the light of the Gospel at once to the distance of two
thousand five hundred miles from the civilised part of the colonies,
it was soon obscured by the cloud of ignorance that darkened the
human mind in those distant regions.

The
whole of their long route I have often travelled, and the
recollection of such a people as the missionaries having been there,
was confined to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not left that
country since the cession to the English, in 1763, and who
particularly mentioned the death of some, and the distressing
situation of them all. But if these religious men did not attain the
objects of their persevering piety, they were, during their mission,
of great service to the commanders who engaged in those distant
expeditions, and spread the fur trade as far West as the banks of the
Saskatchiwine river, in 53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West.

At
an early period of their intercourse with the savages, a custom was
introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately
discontinued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to the natives.
This admirable regulation was for some time observed, with all the
respect due to the religion by which it was sanctioned, and whose
severest censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance
could alone restore the offender to the suspended rites of the
sacrament. The casuistry of trade, however, discovered a way to
gratify the Indians with their favourite cordial without incurring
the ecclesiastical penalties, by giving, instead of selling it to
them.

But
notwithstanding all the restrictions with which commerce was
oppressed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to
the immense distance which has been already stated; and surmounted
many most discouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed;
while, at the same time, no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay to
obtain even a share of the trade of a country, which according to the
charter of that company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is
so much more accessible to the mercantile adventurer.

Of
these trading commanders, I understood, that two attempted to
penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmost extent of their
journey I could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a
failure of the undertaking.

For
some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade was suspended,
which must have been very advantageous to the Hudson's-Bay Company,
as all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Superior were obliged
to go to them for such articles as their habitual use had rendered
necessary. Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and
were become attached to a savage life, accompanied them thither
annually, till mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own
country, after an interval of several years, owing, as I suppose, to
an ignorance of the country in the conquerors, and their want of
commercial confidence in the conquered. There were, indeed, other
discouragements, such as the immense length of the journey necessary
to reach the limits beyond which this commerce must begin; the risk
of property; the expenses attending such a long transport; and an
ignorance of the language of those who, from their experience, must
be necessarily employed as the intermediate agents between them and
the natives. But, notwithstanding these difficulties, the trade, by
degrees, began to spread over the different parts to which it had
been carried by the French, though at a great risk of the lives, as
well as the property of their new possessors, for the natives had
been taught by their former allies to entertain hostile dispositions
towards the English, from their having been in alliance with their
natural enemies the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a sufficient
number of discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive such a
notion; so that for a long time they were considered and treated as
objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the Indians, we
have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the
surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period.

Hence
it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, before which, the
trade I mean to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The first
who attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the river
Camenistiquia, about thirty miles to the Eastward of the Grande
Portage, where the French had a principal establishment, and was the
line of their communication with the interior country. It was once
destroyed by fire. Here they went and returned successful in the
following spring to Michilimakinac. Their success induced them to
renew their journey, and incited others to follow their example. Some
of them remained at Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and
beyond the Grande Portage, which, since that time has become the
principal entrepot of that trade, and is situated in a bay, in
latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West. After passing the usual
season there, they went back to Michilimakinac as before, and
encouraged by the trade, returned in increased numbers. One of these,
Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize superior to that of his
contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthest limits of the
French discoveries in that country; or at least till the frost should
stop him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpreters, who
were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at
Fort Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the West end of the
Cedar Lake, on the waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil
were well recompensed, for he came back the following spring with his
canoes filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and
was satisfied never again to return to the Indian country.

From
this period, people began to spread over every part of the country,
particularly where the French had established settlements.

Mr.
James Finlay was the first who followed Mr. Curry's example, and with
the same number of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next.
season, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements on the bank of
the Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43 1/2. North, and longitude
103. West: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every
respect, the example, of his predecessor.

As
may be supposed, there were now people enough ready to replace them,
and the trade was pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that
in a few years it became the reverse of what it ought to have been.
An animated competition prevailed, and the contending parties carried
the trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to
themselves or neighbours, the Hudson's-Bay Company; who in the year
1774, and not till then, thought proper to move from home to the East
bank of Sturgeon Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102.
15. West, and became more jealous of their fellow subjects; and,
perhaps, with more cause, than they had been of those of France. From
this period, to the present time, they have been following the
Canadians to their different establishments, while, on the contrary,
there is not a solitary instance that the Canadians have followed
them; and there are many trading posts which they have not yet
attained. This, however, will no longer be a mystery, when the nature
and policy of the Hudson's Bay. Company is compared with that which
has been pursued by their rivals in this trade. — But to return
to my subject.

This
competition, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal blow to
the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental causes, in my
opinion, contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very
distant country, out of the reach of legal restraint, and where there
was a free scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage.
The consequence was not only the loss of commercial benefit to the
persons engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and
the respect of their men, who were inclined to follow their example;
so that with drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the Indians
along their route, and among themselves, they seldom reached their
winter quarters; and if they did, it was generally by dragging their
property upon sledges, as the navigation was closed up by the frost.
When at length they were arrived, the object of each was to injure
his rival traders in the opinion of the natives as much as was in
their power, by misrepresentation and presents, for which the agents
employed were peculiarly calculated. They considered the command of
their employer as binding on them, and however wrong or irregular the
transaction, the responsibility rested with the principal who
directed them. This is Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit
and their property with the natives, till the first was past
redemption, and the last was nearly exhausted; so that towards the
spring in each year, the rival parties found it absolutely necessary
to join, and make one common stock of what remained, for the purpose
of trading with the natives, who could entertain no respect for
persons who had conducted themselves with so much irregularity and
deceit. The winter, therefore, was one continued scene of
disagreements and quarrels. If any one had the precaution or good
sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived a proportionable
advantage from his good conduct, and frequently proved a peacemaker
between the parties. To such an height had they carried this
licentious conduct, that they were in a continual state of alarm, and
were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the
country; though they had adopted the plan of travelling together in
parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed; which
sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for their defence.

Thus
was the trade carried on for several years, and consequently becoming
worse and worse, so that the partners, who met them at the Grande
Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. But specious
reasons were always ready to prove that it arose from circumstances
which they could not at that time control; and encouragements were
held forth to hope that a change would soon take place, which would
make ample amends for past disappointments.

It
was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one of the gentlemen
engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet
unexplored, to the North and Westward, and, in the spring of the year
1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort
Churchill, at Portage de Traits, so named from that circumstance, on
the banks of the Missinipi, or Churchill river, latitude 55. 25.
North, longitude 103 1/2. West. It was indeed, with some difficulty
that he could induce them to trade with him, but he at length
procured as many furs as his canoes could carry. In this perilous
expedition he sustained every kind of hardship incident to a journey
through a wild and savage country, where his subsistence depended on
what the woods and the waters produced. These difficulties,
nevertheless, did not discourage him from returning in the following
year, when he was equally successful. He then sent his brother to
explore the country still further West, who penetrated as far as the
lake of Isle a la Crosse, in latitude 55. 26. North, and longitude
108. West.

He,
however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained a
large interest in the trade, and a principal share in the direction
of it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his
labours; and, by his hospitality, became known to every respectable
stranger who visited Canada.

The
success of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and
in the spring of the year 1778, some of the traders on the
Saskatchiwine river, finding they had a quantity of goods to spare,
agreed to put them into a joint stock, and gave the charge and
management of them to Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was
directed to enter the English River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to
follow his track, and proceed still further; if possible, to
Athabasca, a country hitherto unknown but from Indian report. In this
enterprise he at length succeeded and pitched his tent on the banks
of the Elk river, by him erroneously called the Athabasca river,
about forty miles from the Lake of the Hills, into which it empties
itself.

Here
he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast concourse of the
Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their furs
annually to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, where they
suffered innumerable hardships, and were sometimes even starved to
death. The former followed the coarse of the lakes and rivers,
through a country that abounded in animals, and where there was
plenty of fish: but though they did not suffer from want of food, the
intolerable fatigue of such a journey could not be easily repaid to
an Indian: they were, therefore, highly gratified by seeing people
come to their country to relieve them from such long, toilsome, and
dangerous journeys; and were immediately reconciled to give an
advanced price for the articles necessary to their comfort and
convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and success was accordingly beyond
his expectation; and he procured twice as many furs as his canoes
would carry. They also supplied him with as much provision as he
required during his residence among them, and sufficient for his
homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he secured
in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following season,
in the same state in which he left them.

These,
however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the
people of Canada from seeing the improper conduct of some of their
associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain any longer among
the natives. Most of them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine,
got to the Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few
days previous to their intended departure, a large band of Indians
being engaged in drinking about their houses, one of the traders, to
ease himself of the troublesome importunities of a native, gave him a
dose of laudanum in a glass of grog, which effectually prevented him
from giving further trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for
ever. This accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders, and
several of the men were killed, while the rest had no other means to
save themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a
considerable quantity of goods, and near half the furs which they had
collected during the winter and the spring.

About
the same time, two of the establishments on the Assiniboin river,
were attacked with less justice, when several white men, and a great
number of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, that the
natives had formed a resolution to extirpate the traders; and,
without entering into any further reasonings on the subject, it
appears to be incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in
carrying on the trade has brought it into its present forlorn
situation; and nothing but the greatest calamity that could have
befallen the natives, saved the traders from destruction: this was
the small-pox, which spread its destructive and desolating power, as
the fire consumes the dry grass of the field. The fatal infection
spread around with a baneful rapidity which no flight could escape,
and with a fatal effect that nothing could resist. It destroyed with
its pestilential breath whole families and tribes; and the horrid
scene presented to those who had the melancholy and afflicting
opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, the dying,
and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around them,
prepared to disappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their
own existence.

The
habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided not to-day
for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains of such au
affliction, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without
alleviation. Naught was left them but to submit in agony and despair.

To
aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be added,
the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a furious voracity,
dragged forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the
dogs, whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains of their
masters. Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the
infection had not reached, to call them around him, to represent the
cruel sufferings and horrid fate of their relations, from the
influence of some evil spirit who was preparing to extirpate their
race; and to incite them to baffle death, with all its horrors, by
their own poniards. At the same time, if their hearts failed them in
this necessary act, he was himself ready to perform the deed of mercy
with his own hand, as the last act of his affection, and instantly to
follow them to the common place of rest and refuge from human evil.

It
was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this malignant
disorder was introduced, but it was generally supposed to be from the
Missisouri, by a war party.

The
consequence of this melancholy event to the traders must be
self-evident; the means of disposing of their goods were cut off; and
no furs were obtained, but such as had been gathered from the
habitations of the deceased Indians, which could not be very
considerable: nor did they look from the losses of the present year,
with any encouraging expectations to those which were to come. The
only fortunate people consisted of a party who had again penetrated
to the Northward and Westward in 1780, at some distance up the
Missinipi, or English river, to Lake la Rouge. Two unfortunate
circumstances, however, happened to them; which are as follow:

Mr.
Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and known sobriety, had
gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the summer of 1780.
His partners and others, engaged in an opposite interest, when at the
Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of goods on their joint
account, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them to be
their representative to act in conjunction with Mr. Wadin. Two men,
of more opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In
short, from various causes, their situations became very
uncomfortable to each other, and mutual was the natural consequence:
without entering, therefore, into a minute history of these
transactions, it will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end
of the year 1780, or the beginning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received
Mr. Pond and one of his own clerks to dinner; and, in the course of
the night, the former was shot through the lower part of the thigh,
when it was said that he expired from the loss of blood, and was
buried next morning at eight o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were
tried for this murder at Montreal, and acquitted: nevertheless, their
innocence was not so apparent as to extinguish the original
suspicion.

The
other circumstance was this. In the spring of the year, Mr. Pond sent
the above-mentioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, who
used to go annually to Hudson's Bay; when he easily persuaded them to
trade with him, and return back, that they might not take the
contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eastward of them:
but most unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them,
to the destruction of themselves and the neighbouring tribes.

The
country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from
Canada, who, from various causes already mentioned, were very much
reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began
seriously to think of making permanent establishments on the
Missinipi river, and at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they
selected their best canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox
penetrated that way. The most expeditious party got only in time to
the Portage la Loche, or Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters of
the Missinipi from those that fall into the Elk river, to despatch
one canoe strong-handed, and light-loaded, to that country; but, on
their arrival there, they found, in every direction, the ravages of
the small-pox; so that, from the great diminution of the natives,
they returned in the spring with no more than seven packages of
beaver. The strong woods and mountainous countries afforded a refuge
to those who fled from the contagion of the plains; but they were so
alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that they avoided the
traders, and were dispirited from hunting, except for their
subsistence. The traders, however, who returned into the country in
the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity,
and more numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their
success was proportionably better.

During
the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this trade,
formed a junction of interests, under the name of the North-West
Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, without depositing any
capital; each party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles
as were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties
agreeing to satisfy the friends they had in the country, who were not
provided for, according to this agreement, out of the proportions
which they held. The management of the whole was accordingly
entrusted to Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon
M'Tavish, two distinct houses, who had the greatest interest and
influence in the country, and for which they were to receive a
stipulated commission in all transactions.

In
the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with
their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the
parties having an option, except Mr. Peter Pond, who was not
satisfied with the share allotted him. Accordingly he, and another
gentleman, Mr. Peter Pangman, who had a right to be a partner, but
for whom no provision had been made, came to Canada, with a
determination to return to the country, if they could find any
persons to join them, and give their scheme a proper support.

The
traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus entered into
a co-partner-ship, which, by these means, was consolidated and
directed by able men, who, from the powers with which they were
entrusted, would carry on the trade to the utmost extent it would
bear. The traders in the country, therefore, having every reason to
expect that their past and future labours would be recompensed,
forgot all their former animosities, and engaged with the utmost
spirit and activity, to forward the general interest; so that, in the
following year, they met their agents at the Grande Portage, with
their canoes laden with rich furs from the different parts of that
immense tract of country. But this satisfaction was not to be enjoyed
without some interruption; and they were mortified to find that Mr.
Pangman had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory and Macleod to join him, and
give him their support in the business, though deserted by Mr. Pond,
who accepted the terms offered by his former associates.

In
the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at this
period had left him, with a small adventure of goods, with which he
had entrusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any
solicitation on my part, had procured an insertion in the agreement,
that I should be admitted a partner in this business, on condition
that I would proceed to the Indian country in the following spring,
1785. His partner came to Detroit to make me such a proposition. I
readily assented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande
Portage, where I joined my associates.

We
now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the
undertaking, we should have to encounter every other which they, who
were already in possession of the trade of the country, could throw
in our way, and which their circumstances enabled them to do. Nor did
they doubt, from their own superior experience, as well as that of
their clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and
its inhabitants, that they should soon compel us to leave the country
to them. The event, however, did not justify their expectations; for,
after the severest struggle ever known in that part of the world, and
suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival spirit could
instigate; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming of
another, and the narrow escape of one of our clerks, who received a
bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they
were compelled to allow us a share of the trade. As we had already
incurred a loss, this union was, in every respect, a desirable event
to us, and was concluded in the month of July, 1787.

This
commercial establishment was now founded on a more solid basis than
any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full
force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all interference from
Canada, but maintained at least an equal share of advantage with the
Hudson's-Bay Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their local
situation. The following account of this self-erected concern will
manifest the cause of its success.

It
assumed the title of the North-West Company, and was no more than an
association of commercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry on
the fur trade, unconnected with any other business, though many of
the parties engaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it.
It may be said to have been supported entirely upon credit; for,
whether the capital belonged to the proprietor, or was borrowed, it
equally bore interest, for which the association was annually
accountable. It consisted of twenty shares, unequally divided among
the persons concerned. Of these, a certain proportion was held by the
people who managed the business in Canada, and were styled agents for
the Company. Their duty was to import the necessary goods from
England, store them at their own expense at Montreal, get them made
up into articles suited to the trade, pack and forward them, and
supply the cash that might be wanting for the outfits, for which they
received, independent of the profit on their shares, a commission on
the amount of the accounts, which they were obliged to make out
annually, and keep the adventure of each year distinct. Two of them
went annually to the Grande Portage, to manage and transact the
business there, and on the communication at Detroit, Michilimakinac,
St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where they received, stored, packed up,
and shipped the company's furs for England, on which they had also a
small commission. The remaining shares were held by the proprietors,
who were obliged to winter and manage the business of the concern
with the Indians, and their respective clerks, etc. They were not
supposed to be under any obligation to furnish capital, or even
credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it was to remain
in the hands of the agents; for which they were allowed interest.
Some of them, from their long services and influence, held double
shares, and were allowed to retire from the business at any period of
the existing concern, with one of those shares, naming any young man
in the company's service to succeed him in the other. Seniority and
merit were, however, considered as affording a claim to the
succession, which, nevertheless, could not be disposed of without the
concurrence of the majority of the concern; who, at the same time,
relieved the seceding person from any responsibility respecting the
share that he transferred, and accounted for it according to the
annual value or rate of the property; so that the seller could have
no advantage, but that of getting the share of stock which he
retained realised, and receiving for the transferred share what was
fairly determined to be the worth of it. The former was also
discharged from all duty, and became a dormant partner. Thus, all the
young men who were not provided for at the beginning of the contract,
succeeded in succession to the character and advantages of partners.
They entered into the Company's service for five or seven years,
under such expectations, and their reasonable prospects were seldom
disappointed: there were, indeed, instances when they succeeded to
shares, before their apprenticeship was expired, and it frequently
happened, that they were provided for while they were in a state of
articled clerkship. Shares were transferable only to the concern at
large, as no person could be admitted as a partner who had not served
his time to the trade. The dormant partner indeed might dispose of
his interest to any one he chose, but if the transaction was not
acknowledged by his associates, the purchaser could only be
considered as his agent or attorney. Every share had a vote, and
two-thirds formed a majority. This regular and equitable mode of
providing for the clerks of the company, excited a spirit of
emulation in the discharge of their various duties, and in fact, made
every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity to be
immediately connected with that of his employers. Indeed, without
such a spirit, such a trade could not have become so extended and
advantageous, as it has been and now is.

In
1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year did not exceed
forty thousand pounds,1 but by the exertion, enterprise,
and industry of the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, to
triple that amount and upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and
surpassing, in short, any thing known in America.

Such,
therefore, being the prosperous state of the company, it, very
naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a manner
by no means beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous to the
undertakers.

In
1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares were increased to
forty-six, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This
period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by
all the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to act upon
the old stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new
one; and it now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the
same regulations and by the same exertions, though unequal in number,
can continue to carry on the business to a successful issue. The
contrary opinion has been held, which if verified, will make it the
interest of the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient
in capital to support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not
to be supposed that either will yield on any other terms than
perpetual participation.

It
will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the general mode of
carrying on the fur trade.

The
agents are obliged to order the necessary goods from England in the
month of October, eighteen months before they can leave Montreal;
that is, they are not shipped from London until the spring following,
when they arrive in Canada in the summer. In the course of the
following winter they are made up into such articles as are required
for the savages; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds
weight each, but cannot be sent from Montreal until the May
following; so that they do not get to market until the ensuing
winter, when they are exchanged for furs, which come to Montreal the
next fall, and from thence are shipped, chiefly to London, where they
are not sold or paid for before the succeeding spring, or even as
late as June; which is forty-two months after the goods were ordered
in Canada; thirty-six after they had been shipped from England, and
twenty-four after they had been forwarded from Montreal; so that the
merchant, allowing that he has twelve months' credit, does not
receive a return to pay for those goods, and the necessary expenses
attending them, which is about equal to the value of the goods
themselves, till two years after they are considered as cash, which
makes this a very heavy business. There is even a small proportion of
it that requires twelve months longer to bring round the payment,
going to the immense distance it is carried, and from the shortness
of the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after they are
collected, from coming out of the country for that period.2

The
articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen cloths of
different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes; arms and
ammunition; twist and carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and
coarse sheetings; thread, lines, and twine; common hardware; cutlery
and ironmongery of several descriptions; kettles of brass and copper,
and sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose;
calicoes and printed cottons, etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and
provisions are purchased in Canada. These, and the expense of
transport to and from the Indian country, including wages to clerks,
interpreters, guides, and canoe-men, with the expense of making up
the goods for the market, form about half the annual amount against
the adventure.

This
expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of
British manufactory, for those who are employed in the different
branches of this business, are enabled by their gains to purchase
such British articles as they must otherwise forego.

The
produce of the year of which I am now speaking, consisted of the
following furs and peltries

Of
these were diverted from the British market, being sent through the
United States to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283
pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 kitt foxes. They would have
found their way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation
from the British channel arose from the following circumstance:

An
adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respectable house in
London, half concerned with the North-West Company, in the year 1792.
The furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the market; and the
adventurers continued this connexion for five successive years, to
the annual amount of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the
concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797 (the adventure of
1796 not being included, as the furs were not sent to China, but
disposed of in London), the North-West Company experienced a loss of
upwards of £40,000 (their half), which was principally owing to the
difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the
furs from China, in the East India Company's ships, together with the
duty payable, and the various restrictions of that company. Whereas,
from America there are no impediments; they get immediately to
market, and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in
the course of twelve months. From such advantages, the furs of Canada
will no doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be
the case if British subjects had the same privileges that are allowed
to foreigners, as London would then be found the best and safest
market.

But
to return to our principal subject. We shall now proceed to consider
the number of men employed in the concern: viz., fifty clerks,
seventy-one interpreters and clerks, one thousand one hundred and
twenty canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five clerks,
eighteen guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe-men, were employed
for the summer season in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage,
in canoes, part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will
be hereafter explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and
Comers. These were hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from
the 1st of May till the latter end of September. For this trip the
guides had from eight hundred to a thousand livres, and a suitable
equipment; the foreman and steersman from four to six hundred livres;
the middle-men from two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty
livres, with an equipment of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of
trowsers; and were maintained during that period at the expense of
their employers. Independent of their wages, they were allowed to
traffic, and many of them earned to the amount of their wages. About
one-third of these went to winter, and had more than double the above
wages and equipment. All the winterers were hired by the year, and
sometimes for three years; and of the clerks many were apprentices,
who were generally engaged for five or seven years, for which they
had only one hundred pounds, provision and clothing. Such of them who
could not be provided for as partners, at the expiration of this
time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to three hundred pounds
per annum, with all necessaries, till provision was made for them.
Those who acted in the two-fold capacity of clerk and interpreter, or
were so denominated, had no other expectation than the payment of
wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand livres per
annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides, who are a very
useful set of men, acted also in the additional capacity of
interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, considered as
sufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three
thousand livres. The canoe-men are of two descriptions, foremen and
steersmen, and middlemen. The two first were allowed annually one
thousand two hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres each. The
first class had what is called an equipment, consisting of two
blankets, two shirts, two pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs,
fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, and some trifling articles. The
latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the other articles: those
are called North Men, or Winterers; and to the last class of people
were attached upwards of seven hundred Indian women and children,
victualled at the expence of the company.

The
first class of people are hired in Montreal five months before they
set out, and receive their equipments, and one-third of their wages
in advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo, may be
formed from the following account of the country through which they
pass, and their manner of proceeding.

The
necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about three hundred
livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers
free of ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, they are
then despatched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight
or ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five packages
of goods, six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork,
three bushels of pease, for the men's provision; two oil-cloths to
cover the goods, a sail, etc., an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a
sponge to bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and
watape, to repair the vessel. An European on seeing one of these
slender vessels thus laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale
within six inches of the water, would think his fate inevitable in
such a boat, when he reflected on the nature of her voyage; but the
Canadians are so expert that few accidents happen.

Leaving
La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the Western
extremity of the island of Montreal, the lake of the two mountains
being in sight, which may be termed the commencement of the Utawas
river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out part, if
not the whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the
Canadians consider they take their departure, as it possesses the
last church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of
voyages.

The
lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but not more
than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, except the
Seignory belonging to the clergy, though nominally in possession of
the two tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose village is situated
on a delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of
mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point
their church is built, which divides the village in two parts,
forming a regular angle along the water side. On the East is the
station of the Algonquins, and on the West, one of the Iroquois,
consisting in all of about five hundred warriors. Each party has its
missionary, and divine worship is performed according to the rites of
the Roman Catholic religion, in their respective languages in the
same church: and so assiduous have their pastors been, that these
people have been instructed in reading and writing in their own
language, and are better instructed than the Canadian inhabitants of
the country of the lower ranks: but notwithstanding these advantages,
and though the establishment is nearly coeval with the colonisation
of the country, they do not advance towards a state of civilisation,
but retain their ancient habits, language, and customs, and are
becoming every day more depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The
country around them, though very capable of cultivation, presents
only a few miserable patches of ground, sown by the women with maize
and vegetables. During the winter season, they leave their
habitations, and pious pastors, to follow the chase, according to the
custom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed, the state of all the
villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But we shall now leave
them to proceed on our voyage.

At
the end of the lake the water contracts into the Utawas river, which,
after a course of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succession of
rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which
the Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were waste
land, till the conclusion of the American war, when they were
surveyed by order of government, and granted to the officers and men
of the eighty-fourth regiment, when reduced; but principally to the
former, and consequently little inhabited, though very capable of
cultivation.

The
voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry the
goods upon their backs, or rather suspended in slings from their
heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some carry
three. Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. There are some
places where the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole;
they then make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go
and land it at the distance required; and then return for that which
was left. In this distance are three carrying-places, the length of
which depends in a great measure upon the state of the water, whether
higher or lower; from the last of these the river is about a mile and
a half wide, and has a regular current for about sixty miles, when it
ends at the first Portage de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls
twenty-five feet, over cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild,
romantic manner. At a small distance below, is the river Rideau on
the left, falling over a perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in
one sheet, assuming the appearance of a curtain; and from which
circumstance it derives its name. To this extent the lands have been
surveyed, as before observed, and are very fit for culture. Many
loyalists are settled upon the river Rideau, and have, I am told,
thriving plantations. Some American families preferring the British
territory, have also established themselves along a river on the
opposite side, where the soil is excellent. Nor do I think the period
is far distant, when the lands will become settled from this vicinity
to Montreal.

Over
this portage, which is six hundred and forty-three paces long, the
canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is so steep and
difficult of access, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe
out of the water: it is then carried by six men, two at each end on
the same side, and two under the opposite gunwale in the middle. From
hence to the next is but a short distance, in which they make two
trips to the second Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hundred
paces, to carry the loading alone. From hence to the next and last
Chaudiere, or Portage des Chenes, is about six miles, with a very
strong current, where the goods are carried seven hundred and forty
paces; the canoe being towed up by the line, when the water is not
very high. We now enter Lac des Chaudieres, which is computed to be
thirty miles in length. Though it is called a lake, there is a strong
draught downwards, and its breadth is from two to four miles. At the
end of this is the Portage des Chats, over which the canoe and lading
are carried two hundred and seventy-four paces; and very difficult it
is for the former. The river is here barred by a ridge of black rock,
rising in pinnacles and covered with wood, which, from the small
quantity of soil that nourishes it, is low and stinted. The river
finds its way over and through these rocks, in numerous channels,
falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence two trips are made
through a serpentine channel, formed by the rocks, for several miles,
when the current slackens, and is accordingly called the Lac des
Chats. To the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed to be
at the distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its strength,
and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred and
forty-five paces long; over which the canoe and baggage are
transported. From hence the current becomes more rapid, and requires
two trips to the Decharge des Sables,3 where the goods are
carried one hundred and thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then
follows the Mountain Portage, where the canoe and lading are also
carried three hundred and eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge of
the Derige, where the goods are carried two hundred and fifty paces;
and thence to the grand Calumet. This is the longest carrying-place
in this river, and is about two thousand and thirty-five paces. It is
a high hill or mountain. From the upper part of this Portage the
current is steady, and is only a branch of the Utawas river, which
joins the main channel, that keeps a more Southern course, at the
distance of twelve computed leagues. Six leagues further it forms
Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues in length; from thence it
proceeds through the channels of the Allumettes to the decharge,
where part of the lading is taken out, and carried three hundred and
forty-two paces. Then succeeds the Portage des Allumettes, which is
but twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of access, and at a very
short distance from Decharge. From Portage de Chenes to this spot, is
a fine deer-hunting country, and the land in many places very fit for
cultivation. From hence the river spreads wide, and is full of
islands, with some current for seven leagues, to the beginning of
Riviere Creuse, or Deep River, which runs in the form of a canal,
about a mile and a half wide, for about thirty-six miles; bounded
upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the South, and
sandy; it is intercepted again by falls and cataracts, so that the
Portages of the two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hundred
and twenty-six paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, and both
very bad roads. From hence is a steady current of nine miles to the
river du Moine, where there has generally been a trading house; the
stream then becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds,
which requires two trips. A little way onward is the Decharge, and
close to it, the Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hundred and
ninety-seven paces in length. From hence two trips are made through a
narrow channel of the Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles
in length. A strong current now succeeds, for about six leagues to
the Portage of the two rivers, which is about .eight hundred and
twenty paces; from thence it is three leagues to the Decharge of the
Trou, which is three hundred paces. Near adjoining is the rapid of
Levellier; from whence, including the rapids of Matawoen, where there
is no carrying-place, it is about thirty-six miles to the forks of
the same name; in latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. West,
and is at the computed distance of four hundred miles from Montreal.
At this place the Petite Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter
river comes from a North-Westerly direction, forming several lakes in
its course. The principal of them is Lake Temescamang, where there
has always been a trading post, which may be said to continue, by a
succession of rivers and lakes, upwards of fifty leagues from the
Forks, passing near the waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48
1/2, which is received by the Moose River, that empties itself into
James's Bay.

The
Petite Riviere takes a South-West direction, is full of rapids and
cataracts to its source, and is not more than fifteen leagues in
length, in the course of which are the following interruptions —
The Portage of Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the
Decharge of the Rose, one hundred and forty-five paces; the Decharge'
of Campion, one hundred and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the
Grosse Roche, one hundred and fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux,
four hundred and two paces; the Portage of Prairie, two hundred and
eighty-seven paces; the Portage of La Cave, one hundred paces;
Portage of Talon, two hundred and seventy-five paces; which, for its
length, is the worst on the communication; Portage Pin de Musique,
four hundred and fifty-six paces; next to this, is mauvais de
Musique, where many men have been crushed to death by the canoes, and
others have received irrecoverable injuries. The last in this river
is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on entering the lake of
that name, where, indeed, the river may be said to take its source.
At the first vase from whence to the great river, the country has the
appearance of having been over-run by fire, and consists, in general,
of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage which is the height
of land, between the waters of the St. Laurance and the Utawas, is
one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces to a small canal in a
plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded canoe about one
mile to the next vase, which is seven hundred and twenty-five paces.
It would be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is dammed in
the beaver fashion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through
which they pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear them
through a swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and
twenty-four paces in length. Though the river is increased in this
part, some care is necessary to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In
about six miles is the lake Nepisingui, which is computed to be
twelve leagues long, though the route of the canoes is something
more: it is about fifteen miles wide in the widest part, and bound
with rocks. Its inhabitants consist of the remainder of a numerous
converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of the Algonquin nation. Out of
it flows the Riviere des Francois, over rocks of a considerable
height. In a bay to the East of this, the road leads over the Portage
of the Chaudiere des François, five hundred and forty-four paces, to
still water. It must have acquired the name of Kettle, from a great
number of holes in the solid rock of a cylindrical form, and not
unlike that culinary utensil. They are observable in many parts along
strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and distinct
periods, it is well known the water inundates; at the bottom of them
are generally found a number of small stones and pebbles. This
circumstance justifies the conclusion, that at some former period
these rocks formed the bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake,
although some of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level
of the water at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to be seen
along every great river throughout this wide extended country. The
French river is very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and
is so interspersed with islands, that in the whole course of it the
banks are seldom visible. Of its various channels, that which is
generally followed by the canoes is obstructed by the following
Portages, viz., des Pins, fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six
paces; Parisienne, one hundred paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and
the Petite Feusille, twenty-five paces. In several parts there are
guts or channels, where the water flows with great velocity, which
are not more than twice the breadth of a canoe. The distance to Lake
Huron is estimated at twenty-five leagues, which this river enters in
the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, at the point of land three or
four miles within the lake. There is hardly a foot of soil to be seen
from one end of the Fench river to the other, its banks consisting of
hills of entire rock. The coast of the lake is the same, but lower,
backed at some distance by high lands. The course runs through
numerous islands to the North of West to the river Tessalon, computed
to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and which I found to
be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence crossing, from
island to island, the arm of the lake that receives the water of Lake
Superior (which continues the same course), the route changes to the
South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing the end of the
island of St. Joseph, within six miles of the former place. On that
island there has been a military establishment since the upper posts
were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the
Westernmost military position which we have in this country. It is a
place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of the
Indians come here for no other purpose but to receive the presents
which our government annually allows them. They are from the American
territory (except about thirty families, who are the inhabitants of
the lake from the French river, and of the Algonquin nation) and
trade in their peltries, as they used formerly to do at
Michilimakinac, but principally with British subjects. The Americans
pay them very little attention, and tell them that they keep
possession of their country by right of conquest: that, as their
brothers, they will be friends with them while they deserve it; and
that their traders will bring them every kind of goods they require,
which they may procure by their industry.

Our
commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the
character of the representative of their father (which parental title
the natives give to his present Majesty, the common father of all his
people) present them with such things as the actual state of their
stores will allow.

How
far this conduct, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep these
people in our interest, if they are even worthy of it, is not an
object of my present consideration: at the same time, I cannot avoid
expressing my perfect conviction, that it would not be of the least
advantage to our present or future commerce in that country, or to
the people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them in a
state of idleness about our military establishments. The ammunition
which they receive is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum
in return, though their families may be in a starving condition:
hence it is, that, in consequence of slothful and dissolute lives,
their numbers are in a very perceptible state of diminution.

From
the Detour to the island of Michilimakinac, at the conference of the
Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty
miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Superior, the North shore
from the river Tessalon should be followed; crossing to the
North-West end of St. Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent
islands, which makes a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St.
Mary, at the foot of which, upon the South shore, there is a village,
formerly a place of great resort for the inhabitants of Lake
Superior, and consequently of considerable trade: it is now, however,
dwindled to nothing, and reduced to about thirty families, of the
Algonquin nation, who are one half of the year starving, and the
other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve Canadians, who have been in
the Indian country from an early period of life, and intermarried
with the natives, who have brought them families. Their inducements
to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish that are to be
taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, particularly
in the autumn, when that fish leave the lakes, and comes to the
running and shallow waters to spawn. These, when salt can be
procured, are pickled just as the frost sets in, and prove very good
food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with success.
The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the
tails, and preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as
they last; for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never
known that their economy is such as to make them last through the
winter, which renders their situation very distressing; for if they
had activity sufficient to pursue the labours of the chase, the woods
are become so barren of game as to afford them no great prospect of
relief. In the spring of the year, they and the other inhabitants
make a quantity of sugar from the maple tree, which they exchange
with the traders for necessary articles, or carry it to
Michilimakinac, where they expect a better price. One of these
traders was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, storing, and
forwarding such articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their
vessels: for it is to be observed, that a quantity of their goods are
sent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the
entrance of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then
over land ten miles to a water communication, by boats, to Lake Erie,
where they are again received into vessels, and carried over that
lake up the river Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to
Lake Huron, and from thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are
again landed and carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped over
Lake Superior to the Grande Portage. This is found to be a less
expensive method than by canoes, but attended with more risk, and
requiring more time, than one short season of this country will
admit; for the goods are always sent from Montreal the preceding
fall; and besides, the company get their provisions from Detroit, as
flour and Indian corn; as also considerable supplies from
Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, etc., etc.

For
the purpose of conveying all these things, they have two vessels upon
the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty to
seventy tons burden. This being, therefore, the depot for transports,
the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over Lake
Superior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to
Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required to
prosecute the trade, and then taking a lading there, or at St.
Mary's, and follow the others. At length they all arrive at the
Grande Portage, which is one hundred and sixty leagues from St.
Mary's, coast-ways, and situated on a pleasant bay on the North side
of the lake, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West from
Greenwich, where the compass has not above five degrees East
variation.

At
the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbour from
every wind except the South. The shallowness of the water, however,
renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near a mile from the
shore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake
justifies the name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary,
which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and
in longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of the compass
whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the river St. Louis, is in
latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its greatest
breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference,
including its various bays, is not less than one thousand two hundred
miles. Along its North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a
continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one
thousand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and
sandy bays to land, which are frequently sheltered by islands from
the swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at the distance
of one hundred miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is
called the Pays Plat.

This
seems to have been caused by some convulsion of nature, for many of
the islands display a composition of lava, intermixed with round
stones of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding rock is
generally hard, and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the
appearance of iron and copper. The South side of the lake, from Point
Shagoimigo East, is almost a continual straight line of sandy beach,
interspersed with rocky precipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising
to a hundred feet in height, without a bay. The embankments from that
point Westward are, in general, of strong clay, mixed with stones,
which renders the navigation irksome and dangerous. On the same side,
at the river Tonnagan, is found a quantity of virgin copper. The
Americans, soon after they got possession of that country, sent an
engineer thither; and I should not be surprised to hear of their
employing people to work the mine. Indeed, it might be well worthy
the attention of the British subjects to work the mines on the North
coast, though they are not supposed to be so rich as those on the
South.

Lake
Superior is the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water in
the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in
a great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind.
There are trouts of three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds,
sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings,
etc., etc., and the last, and best of all, the Ticamang, or white
fish, which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior
quality in these waters.

This
lake may be denominated the grand reservoir of the River St.
Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge themselves into it. The
principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the
Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them
flow, or take their course, in any. direction, cannot admit of it, in
consequence of the ridge of land that separates them from the rivers
that empty themselves into Hudson's-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the
waters that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward become a part of
the St. Laurence.

This
vast collection of water is often covered with fog, particularly when
the wind is from the East, which, driving against the high barren
rocks on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It
is very generally said, that the storms on this lake are denoted by a
swell on the preceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from
my observation to be a regular phenomenon, as the swells more
regularly subsided without any subsequent wind.

Along
the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evident marks appear of
the decrease of its water, by the lines observable along them. The
space, however, between the highest and the lowest, is not so great
as in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet,
the former being very faint.

The
inhabitants that are found along the coast of this water, are all of
the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.4

These
people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what has been said of the
country, it cannot be expected to abound in animals, as it is totally
destitute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. The rocks
appear to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted timber which
once grew there, is frequently seen lying along the surface of them:
but it is not easy to be reconciled, that anything should grow where
there is so little appearance of soil. Between the fallen trees there
are briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspberries,
etc., which invite the bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they
are a favourite food of that animal: beyond these rocky banks are
found a few moose and fallow deer. The waters alone are abundantly
inhabited.

Avery
curious phenomenon was observed some years ago at the Grande Portage,
for which no obvious cause could be assigned. The water withdrew with
great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never before
been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, and
rushing back with great velocity above the common mark. It continued
thus falling and rising for several hours, gradually decreasing till
it stopped at its usual height. There is frequently an irregular
influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is
attributed to the wind.

The
bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is cleared of wood
and inclosed; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or
four hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a still greater
altitude, is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and
inclosing houses built with wood and covered with shingles. They are
calculated for every convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate
the proprietors and clerks during their short residence there. The
north men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-eater lodges
beneath his canoe. The soil immediately bordering on the lake has not
proved very propitious, as nothing but potatoes have been found to
answer the trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is probably
owing to the cold damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the
ground from the springs that issue from beneath the hills. There are
meadows in the vicinity that yield abundance of hay for the cattle;
but, as to agriculture, it has not hitherto been an object of serious
consideration.

I
shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some further
account of the people from Montreal. — When they are arrived at the
Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to
carry eight packages of such goods and provisions as are necessary
for the interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot
conveniently perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by
the company without success. They are only useful for light, bulky
articles; or for transporting upon sledges, during the winter,
whatever goods may remain there, especially provision, of which it is
usual to have a year's stock on hand.

Having
finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are
necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for
each package: and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that I
have known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds
each, and return with two others of the same weight, in the course of
six hours, being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and
mountains. This necessary part of the business being over, if the
season be early they have some respite, but this depends upon the
time the North men begin to arrive from their winter quarters, which
they commonly do early in July. At this period, it is necessary to
select from the pork-eaters, a number of men, among whom are the
recruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the North canoes necessary
to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the goods and provision
requisite for the Athabasca country; as the people of that country
(owing to the shortness of the season and length of the road, can
come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings with the
people of whom we are speaking, and both return from whence they
came. This voyage is performed in the course of a month, and they are
allowed proportionable wages for their services.

The
North men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled with
bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not
entered into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are
contracted with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or
three years; their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to
send any of their earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to
their relations or friends; and as soon as they can be got ready,
which requires no more than a fortnight, they are again despatched to
their respective departments. It is, indeed, very creditable to them
as servants, that though they are sometimes assembled to the number
of twelve hundred men, indulging themselves in the free use of
liquor, and quarrelling with each other, they always show the
greatest respect to their employers, who are comparatively but few in
number, and beyond the aid of any legal power to enforce due
obedience. In short, a degree of subordination can only be maintained
by the good opinion these men entertain of their employers, which has
been uniformly the case, since the trade has been formed and
conducted on a regular system.

The
people being despatched to their respective winter-quarters, the
agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return
there, by getting the furs across the portage, and re-making them
into packages of one hundred pounds weight each, to send them to
Montreal; where they commonly arrive in the month of September.

The
mode of living at the Grande Portage is as follows: The proprietors,
clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number of
sometimes an hundred, at several tables, in one large hall, the
provision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and
venison, butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine,
etc., and plenty of milk, for which purpose several mulch cows are
constantly kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but
the canoe-men, both from the North and Montreal, have no other
allowance here, or in the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat.
The corn for this purpose is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by
boiling it in a strong alkali, which takes off the outer husk: it is
then well washed, and carefully dried upon stages, when it is fit for
use. One quart of this is boiled for two hours, over a moderate fire,
in a gallon of water; to which, when it has boiled a small time, are
added two ounces of melted suet; this causes the corn to split, and
in the time mentioned makes a pretty thick pudding. If to this is
added a little salt, (but not before it is boiled, as it would
interrupt the operation) it makes a wholesome, palatable food, and
easy of digestion. This quantity is fully sufficient for a man's
subsistence during twenty-four hours; though it is not sufficiently
heartening to sustain the strength necessary for a state of active
labour. The Americans call this dish hominy.5

The
trade from the Grande Portage is, in some particulars, carried on in
a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used in the
latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of about
half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated by
four, five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to
go. They carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average;
of these twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are
employed for provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes
are a foreman and steersman; the one to be always on the look-out,
and direct the passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the
helm. They also carry her, whenever that office is necessary. The
foreman has the command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter
earn only two-thirds of the wages which are paid the two former.
Independent of these, a conductor or pilot is appointed to every four
or six of these canoes, whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or
at least is intended to be, a person of superior experience, for
which he is proportionably paid.

In
these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North side of the
portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and
after about two miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the
Partridge Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a
considerable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock
of one hundred and twenty feet. From thence the river continues to be
shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe
from being injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and
an half to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out,
and carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the
canoe among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage,
three miles and a half more, when they unload, and come back two
miles, and embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which
they also land with the former; all of which is carried six hundred
and eighty paces, and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence
the water is better calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a
winding course to the North of West three miles to the Outard
Portage, over which the canoe, and every thing in her, is carried for
two thousand four hundred paces. At the further end is a very high
hill to descend, over which hangs a rock upwards of seven hundred
feet high. Then succeeds the Outard Lake, about six miles long, lying
in a North-West course, and about two miles wide in the broadest
place.

After
passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over
which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one hundred
and twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, which is
an handsome piece of water, running North-West about four miles, and
not more than one mile and an half wide.6 They then land
at the Portage de Cerise, over which, and in the face of a
considerable hill, the canoe and cargo are again transported for one
thousand and fifty paces. This is only separated from the second
Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond (where there is plenty of water
lilies), of a quarter of a mile in length; and this is again
separated by a similar pond, from the last Portage de Cerise, which
is four hundred and ten paces. Here the same operation is to be
performed for three hundred and eighty paces. They next enter on the
Mountain Lake, running North-West by West six miles long, and about
two miles in its greatest breadth. In the centre of this lake, and to
the right is the Old Road, by which I never passed, but an adequate
notion may be formed of it from the road I am going to describe, and
which is universally preferred. This is first, the small new portage
over which everything is carried for six hundred and twenty-six
paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked on a narrow
line of water, that meanders South-West about two miles and an half.
It is necessary to unload here, for the length of the canoe, and then
proceed West half a mile, to the new Grande Portage, which is three
thousand one hundred paces in length, and over very rough ground,
which requires the utmost exertions of the men, and frequently lames
them: from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the portage of that
name being opposite to the junction of the road from the Mountain
Lake. They then embark on the Rose Lake, about one mile from the East
end of it, and steer West by South, in an oblique course, across it
two miles, then North-West passing the Petite Peche to the Marten
Portage three miles. In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and
slime, with about three or four feet of water over it; and here I
frequently struck a canoe pole of twelve feet long, without meeting
any other obstruction than if the whole were water: it has, however,
a peculiar suction or attractive power, so that it is difficult to
paddle a canoe over it. There is a small space along the South shore,
where the water is deep, and this effect is not felt. In proportion
to the distance from this part, the suction becomes more powerful: I
have, indeed, been told that loaded canoes have been in danger of
being swallowed up, and have only owed their preservation to other
canoes, which were lighter. I have, myself, found it very difficult
to get away from this attractive power, with six men, and great
exertion, though we did not appear to be in any danger of sinking.

Over
against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South side, called
Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated from
the Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a
mud-pond, covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on the
lake of the same name, West-South-West three miles to the height of
land, where the waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and
which is one of the sources of the great St. Laurence in this
direction. Having carried the canoe and lading over it, six hundred
and seventy-nine paces, they embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre,
which is in the shape of an horseshoe.7 It is entered near
the curve, and left at the extremity of the Western limb, through a
very shallow channel, where the canoe passes half loaded for thirty
paces with the current, which conducts these waters till they
discharge themselves, through the succeeding lakes and rivers, and
disembogues itself, by the river Nelson, into Hudson's-Bay. The first
of these is Lac de Pierre's a fusil, running West-South-West seven
miles long, and two wide, and making an angle at North-West one mile
more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and
forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-five paces;
but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the
character of both, and runs between large rocks, which cause a
current or rapid for about two miles and an half, West-North-West, to
the portage of the Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are
carried three hundred and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a
quarter of a mile is the Portage des Gros Pins, which is six hundred
and forty paces over a high ridge. The opposite side of it is washed
by a small lake three mile round; and the course is through the East
end or side of it, three quarters of a mile North-East, where there
is a rapid. An irregular meandering channel, between rocky banks,
then succeeds, for seven miles and an half, to the Maraboeuf Lake,
which extends North four miles, and is three-quarters of a mile wide,
terminating by a rapid and decharge of one hundred and eighty paces,
the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which causes a fall of about
seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces.

Lake
Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands. Its greatest
length from East to West is about fourteen miles, with very irregular
inlets, is nowhere more than three miles wide, and terminates at the
small portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a
rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very
improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that
description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the West
end: to the East is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty
that the lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles
into the mud, and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage
rises on a stony ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be
carried for six hundred and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an
embarkation on a small bay, where the bottom is the same as has been
described in the West end of Rose Lake, and it is with great
difficulty that a laden canoe is worked over it, but it does not
comprehend more than a distance of two hundred yards. From hence the
progress continues through irregular channels, bounded by rocks, in a
Westerly course for about five miles, to the little Portage des
Couteaux, of one hundred and sixty-five paces, and the Lac des
Couteaux, running about South-West by West twelve miles, and from a
quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from the
West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, and after running
two miles West, it again becomes still water. In this river are two
carrying-places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and
ninety paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile
North-West, leaving a narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with
the Lac des Couteaux, half its length, where there is a
carrying-place, which is used when the water in the river last
mentioned is too low. The Portage des Carpes is three hundred and
ninety paces, from whence the water spreads irregularly between
rocks, five miles North-West and South-East to the Portage of Lac
Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces. Then follows the
lake of that name, but I think improperly so called, as the natives
name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry Berries.

Before
the small-pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the
Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the
destruction of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous:
this was also a favourite part, where they made their canoes, etc.,
the lake abounding in fish, the country round it being plentifully
supplied with various kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form
the boundaries of the water, covered with a variety of berries.

When
the French were in possession of this country, they had several
trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since
that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin
nation, could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce,
that they depended principally for food upon fish and wild rice,
which grows spontaneously in these parts.

This
lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from East to
West is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting
into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the
West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in
length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several
rapids in the course of a mile: it runs West-North-West to the
Portage des Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried
four hundred paces. From hence the channel is also intercepted by
very dangerous rapids, for two miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe
du Bois, which is two hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the
portage of La Croche, one mile more, where the carrying-place is
eighty paces, and is followed by an embarkation on that lake, which
takes its name from its figure. It extends eighteen miles, in a
meandering form, and in a westerly direction; it is in general very
narrow, and at about two-thirds of its length becomes very
contracted, with a strong current.

Within
three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable rock, with a smooth
face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over the
water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows
have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the
Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and
left these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that,
notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible
to their enemies.

Lake
Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces
long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling
over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with
intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon
portage, which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and
leads to the Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about
North-West eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a
deep bay nearly East. The course to the Portage is West by North for
sixteen miles more from the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a
road which was frequented by the French, and followed through lakes
and rivers until they came to Lake Superior by the river
Caministiquia, thirty miles East of the Grande Portage.

Portage
la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next portage is a quarter
of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding four
miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles
North-North-West, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake
Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of
a fall, where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about
North-North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running East, that
gives it the form of a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to
the Nouvelle Portage.

The
discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one
hundred eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small river, from
whence there is but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage,
three hundred and twenty paces long. It is then necessary to embark
on a swamp, or overflowed country, where wild rice grows in great
abundance. There is a channel or small river in the centre of this
swamp, which is kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one
mile and a half. With deepening water, the course continues
North-North-West one mile to the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused
by the discharge of the waters running on the left of the road from
Lake Namaycan, which used to be the common route, but that which I
have described is the safest as well as shortest. From hence there is
some current though the water is wide spread, and its course about
North by West three miles and an half to the Lac de la Pluie, which
lies nearly East and West; from thence about fifteen miles is a
narrow strait that divides the lake into two unequal parts, from
whence to its discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles. There is
a deep bay running North-West on the right, that is not included, and
is remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of soft, red
stone, of which they make their pipes; it also affords an excellent
fishery both in the summer and winter; and from it is an easy, safe,
and short road to the Lac du Bois, (which I shall mention presently)
for the Indians to pass in their small canoes, through a small lake
and on a small river, whose banks furnish abundance of wild rice. The
discharge of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie River, at whose
entrance there is a rapid below, which is a fine bay, where there had
been an extensive picketed fort and building when possessed by the
French: the site of it is at present a beautiful meadow, surrounded
with groves of oaks. From hence there is a strong current for two
miles, where the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, from the
consequent. turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which is
three hundred and twenty paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere.
Two miles onward is the present trading establishment, situated on an
high bank on the North side of the river, in 48. 37. North latitude.

Here
the people from Montreal come to meet those who arrive from the
Athabasca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading
with them. This is also the residence of the first chief, or Sachem,
of all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this
country. He is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal
preeminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace
or war.

This
is one of the finest rivers in the North-West, and runs a course West
and East one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking its
course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are
covered with a rich soil, particularly to the North, which, in many
parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the
pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not so elevated, and
displays the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce,
the alder, and various underwood. Its waters abound in fish,
particularly the sturgeon, which the natives both spear and take with
drag-nets. But notwithstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians
do not attend to its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the
common process, and are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it
from us.

Though
the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a garden, which,
unassisted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is
tolerably productive.

We
now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, into which this river
discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and was formerly famous for
the richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever
was necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in
and about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal
circumstance had destroyed the game, as war and the small-pox had
diminished the inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in
animals since the British subjects have been engaged in travelling
through it; though it now appears to be recovering its pristine
state. The few Indians who inhabit it might live very comfortably, if
they were not so immoderately fond of spirituous liquors.

This
lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of the Americans
having named it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, between
them and British America, was to run West, until it struck the
Mississippi: which, however, can never happen, as the North-West part
of the Lac du Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31.
West, and the Northernmost branch of the source of the Mississippi is
in latitude 47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by
Mr. Thomson, astronomer to the North-West Company, who was sent
expressly for that purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same
year, determined the Northern bend of the Mississoury to be in
latitude 47. 32. North, and longitude 101. 25. West; and, according
to the Indian accounts, it runs to the south of West, so that if the
Mississoury were even to be considered as the Mississippi, no Western
line could strike it.

It
does not appear to me to be clearly determined what course the Line
is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the
country to the Lac du Bois: were it to follow the principal waters to
their source, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River St.
Louis, and follow that river to its source; close to which is the
source of the waters falling into the river of Lac la Pluie, which is
a common route of the Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis
passes within a short distance of a branch of the Mississippi, where
it becomes navigable for canoes. This will appear more evident from
consulting the map: and if the navigation of the Mississippi is
considered as of any consequence by this country, from that part of
the globe, such is the nearest way to get at it.

But
to return to our narrative. The Lac du Bois is, as far as I could
learn, nearly round, and the canoe course through the centre of it
among a cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive that they
may be taken for the mainland. The reduced course would be nearly
South and North. But following the navigating course, I make the
distance seventy-five miles, though in a direct line it would fall
very short of that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a small
carrying-place, when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the
Lake is on the island, and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37.
North, and longitude 94. 15. West; it is about fifty paces long. The
lake discharges itself at both ends of this island, and forms the
River Winipic, which is a large body of water, interspersed with
numerous islands, causing various channels and interruptions of
portages and rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes,
with steady currents; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles
eight miles; to the Grand Decharge twenty-five miles and an half,
which is a long carrying-place for the goods; from thence to the
little Decharge one mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two
miles and an half; then to its galet seventy yards; two miles and
three quarters to the Terre Blanche, near which is a fall of from
four to five feet; three miles and an half to Portage de L'Isle,
where there is a trading-post, and, about eleven miles, on the north
shore, a trading establishment, which is the road in boats, to Albany
River, and from thence to Hudson's-Bay. There is also a communication
with Lake Superior, through what is called the Nipigan country, which
enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East of the Grande
Portage. In short, the country is so broken by lakes and rivers, that
people may find their way in canoes in any direction they please. It
is now four miles to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short, though
several canoes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid. From
thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which are about
fifteen feet high; and six miles and an half to the woody point;
forty yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high
fall, but not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rock
Portage, is about two miles, which is one continual rapid and
cascade; and about two miles further is the Chute a l'Esclave, which
is upward of thirty feet. The Portage is long, through a point
covered with wood: it is six miles and an half more to the barrier,
and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From thence, on the North side, is
a safe road, when the waters are high, through small rivers and
lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the Pinnawas, from the man who
discovered it: to the White River, so called from its being, for a
considerable length, a succession of falls and cataracts, is twelve
miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a space, that the whole
of them are discernible at the same moment. From this to Lake du
Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles across it to the rapid.
Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from thence it is two miles to the
Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet one mile and
an half; thence to the Portage of the same name is three miles. This
portage is near half a league in length, and derives its name from
the custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid in a circle on
the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of herbage and
branches. There have been examples of men taking seven packages of
ninety pounds each, at one end of the portage, and putting them down
at the other without stopping.

To
this another small portage immediately succeeds, over a rock
producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two
miles and an half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent is three
miles; to the next, of the same name, is but a few yards distant; to
the third and last, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half;
and from this to the last Portage of the river, one mile and an half;
and to the establishment, or provision house, is two miles and an
half. Here also the French had their principal inland depot, and got
their canoes made.

It
is here that the present traders, going to great distances, and where
provision is difficult to procure, receive a supply to carry them to
the Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the establishment to the
entrance of Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, latitude 50. 37.
North.

The
country, soil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to this
place, bear a general resemblance, with a predominance of rock and
water: the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any soil it
is well covered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of different kinds,
maple of two kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which are
what I call the cypress, with the hickory, ironwood, laird, poplar,
cedar, black and white birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice
are seen throughout the country, which the natives collect in the
month of August for their winter stores.8 To the North of
fifty degrees it is hardly known, or at least does not come to
maturity.

Lake
Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and
discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in
rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin, or
Red River, which at the distance of forty miles coastwise,
disembogues on the south west side of the Lake Winipic. It
alternately receives those two denominations from its dividing, at
the distance of about thirty miles from the lake, into two large
branches. The Eastern branch, called the Red River, runs in a
Southern direction to near the head waters of the Mississippi. On
this are two trading establishments. The country on either side is
but partially supplied with wood, and consists of plains covered with
herds of the buffalo and elk, especially on the Western side. On the
Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole country is well
wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, fallow deer,
etc., etc. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, are not very
numerous, and are considered as the natives of Lake Superior. This
country being near the Mississippi, is also inhabited by the
Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of the former; the head of the
water being the war-line, they are in a continual state of hostility;
and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others generally
out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the latter
continue to venture out of the woods, which form their only
protection, they will soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a
finer country in the world for the residence of uncivilised man, than
that which occupies the space between this river and Lake Superior.
It abounds in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts of such
a people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great
plenty; while, at the same time, their subsistence requires that
bodily exercise so necessary to health and vigour. This great extent
of country was formerly very populous, but from the information I
received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not
exceed three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I saw, it
appeared to me that the widows were more numerous than the men. The
raccoon is a native of this country, but is seldom found to the
Northward of it.

The
other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadowasis, who here go
by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it.
It runs from the North-North-West, and in the latitude of 51. 15.
West, and longitude 103. 20., rising in the same mountains as the
river Dauphin, of which I shall speak in due order. They must have
separated from their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live
in peace with the Algonquins and Knisteneaux.

The
country between this and the Red River, is almost a continual plain
to the Mississoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with a slight
intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are very
rare; nor are there on the banks of the river sufficient, except in
particular spots, to build houses and supply fire-wood for the
trading establishments, of which there are four principal ones. Both
these rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a
fall; though in some parts there are rapids, caused by occasional
beds of limestone, and gravel; but in general they have a sandy
bottom.

The
Assiniboins, and some of the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are the
principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river,
occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about
its source, being the station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who
have chosen it in preference to their own country. They do not exceed
five hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts
for their allowing the division just mentioned, as the lower and
upper parts of this river have those animals, which are not found in
the intermediate district. They confine themselves to hunting the
buffalo, and trapping wolves, which cover the country. What they do
not want of the former for raiment and food, they sometimes make into
pemmican, or pounded meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the
skins in their hair, for winter. The wolves they never eat, but
produce a tallow from their fat, and prepare their skins; all which
they bring to exchange for arms and ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives,
and various baubles, with those who go to traffic in their country.

The
Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary, attend to the
fur-hunting, so that they acquire the additional articles of cloth,
blankets, etc., but their passion for rum often puts it out of their
power to supply themselves with real necessaries.

The
next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties itself at
the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Winipic,
latitude nearly M. 15. North, taking its source in the same mountains
as the last-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers,
the latter passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the
former, and both continuing their course through the Manitoba Lake,
which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine
miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin,
disembogues its waters, as already described, into that lake. These
rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being
generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the
Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks,
bears, buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts
have been made to raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been found
productive.

On
these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin, which
was established by the French before the conquest. Red-Deer River,
and Swan-River Forts, with occasional detached posts from these. The
inhabitants are the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and
Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior;
and some from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants,
their number cannot be determined: they do not, however, at any time
exceed two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There
is no other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine, which I
shall mention presently, that empties itself into the Lake Winipic.

Those
on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to the comparative
vicinity of the high land that separates the waters coming this way,
from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The course of the lake is
about West-North-West and South-South-East, and the East end of it is
in 50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length to a
strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more than two miles broad,
where the South shore is gained through islands, and crossing various
bays to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This
lake, in common with those of this country, is bounded on the North
with banks of black and grey rock, and on the South by a low level
country, occasionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of
lime-stones, lying in stratas, and rising to the perpendicular height
of from twenty to forty feet; these are covered with a small quantity
of earth, forming a level surface, which bears timber, but of a
moderate growth, and declines to a swamp. Where the banks are low, it
is evident in many places that the waters are withdrawn, and never
rise to those heights which were formerly washed by them.

The
inhabitants who are found along this lake are of the Knisteneaux and
Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not scarce,
and there is fish in great abundance. The black bass is found there,
and no further West; and beyond it no maple trees are seen, either
hard or soft.

On
entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few miles, the great
rapid interrupts the passage. It is about three miles long. Through
the greatest part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden,
according to the state of the waters: the canoe and its contents are
then carried one thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near
a mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverse
the river. The South bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty feet,
of the same rock as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, and
the North is not more than a third of that height. There is an
excellent sturgeon-fishery at the foot of this cascade, and vast
numbers of pelicans, cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they watch
to seize the fish that may be killed or. disabled by the force of the
waters.

About
two miles from this Portage the navigation is again interrupted by
the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a
mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of
islands, forming rapids between them; and through these it is the
same distance to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right
across, and eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Decharge,
and several rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is
entered through a small channel on the left, formed by an island, as
going round it would occasion loss of time. In this distance banks of
rocks (such as have already been described) appear at intervals on
either side; the rest of the country is low. This is the case along
the South bank of the lake and the islands, while the North side,
which is very uncommon, is level throughout. This lake runs first
West four miles, then as much more West-South-West, across a deep bay
on the right, then six miles to the Point de Lievre, and across
another bay again on the right; then North-West eight miles, across a
still deeper bay on the right; and seven miles parallel with the
North coast, North North-West through islands, five miles more to
Fort Bourbon,9 situated on a small island, dividing this
from Mud Lake.

The
Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclusive of the bays.
Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its waters
produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, and
the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks,
swans, etc., and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of
martens, of which it cannot now boast but a very small proportion.

The
Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the
immense quantity of earth and sand, brought down by the
Saskatchiwine, has filled up this part of it for a circumference
whose diameter is at least fifteen or twenty miles: part of which
space is still covered with a few feet of water, but the greatest
proportion is shaded with large trees, such as the bard, the
swamp-ash, and the willow. This land consists of many islands, which
consequently form various channels, several of which are occasionally
dry, and bearing young wood. It is, indeed, more than probable that
this river will, in the course of time, convert the whole of the
Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North-West the cedar is not to be
found.

From
this lake the Saskatchiwine may be considered as navigable to near
its source in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a
carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon
Lake. From the confluence of its North and South branches its course
is Westerly; spreading itself, it receives several tributary streams,
and encompasses a large tract of country, which is level,
particularly along the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and
other animals, whose furs are valuable, are amongst the inhabitants
of the North-West branch, and the plains are covered with buffaloes,
wolves, and small foxes; particularly about the South branch, which,
however, has of late claimed some attention, as it is now understood,
that where the plains terminate towards the rocky mountain, there is
a space of hilly country clothed with wood, and inhabited also by
animals of the fur kind. This has been actually determined to be the
case towards the head of the North branch, where the trade has been
carried to about the latitude 54. North, and longitude 114. 30. West.
The bed and banks of the latter, in some few places, discover a
stratum of free-stone; but, in general, they are composed of earth
and sand. The plains are sand and gravel, covered with fine grass,
and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable earth. This is
particularly observable along the North branch, the West side of
which is covered with wood.

There
are on this river five principal factories for the convenience of
trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch House, Fort-George
House, Fort-Augustus House, and Upper Establishment. There have been
many others, which, from various causes, have been changed for these,
while there are occasionally others depending on each of them.

The
inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as follow:

At
Nepawi and South-Branch House, about thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or
ninety warriors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins,
who are their neighbours, and are equal to two hundred men: their
hunting ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them
are those who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about
eighty tents or upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of the river,
their number may be two hundred. In the same country are one hundred
and forty tents of Stone Indians : not quite half of them inhabit the
West woody country; the others never leave the plains, and their
numbers cannot be less than four hundred and fifty men. At the
Southern Head-waters of the North-branch dwells a tribe called
Sarsees, consisting of about thirty-five tents, or one hundred and
twenty men. Opposite to those Eastward, on the head-waters of the
South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to the number of from twelve to
fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the same water, are the
Blood-Indians, of the same nation as the last, to the number of about
fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From them downwards extend
the Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the two last tribes:
their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them, and who extend
to the confluence of the South and North branch, are the Fall, or
Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about six hundred warriors.

Of
all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken country on
the North-West side, and the source of the North branch, are
beaver-hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox
skins; and many people on the South branch do not trouble themselves
to come near the trading establishments. Those who do, choose such
establishments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here,
are the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit
the river of that name already described, and both are detached
tribes from the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side of the
Mississippi, and lower part of the Mississoury. The Fall, or
Big-bellied Indians, are from the South-Eastward also, and of a
people who inhabit the plains from the North bend of the last
mentioned river, latitude 47. 32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to
the South bend of the Assiniboin River, to the number of seven
hundred men. Some of them occasionally come to the latter river to
exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad wolf-skins for articles of no
great value.

The
Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a distinct people,
speak a language of their own, and, I have reason to think, are
travelling North-West, as well as the others just mentioned: nor have
I heard of any Indians with whose language that which they speak has
any affinity. — They are the people who deal in horses, and take
them upon the war-parties towards Mexico; from which, it is evident,
that the country to the South-East of them consists of plains, as
those animals could not well be conducted through an hilly and woody
country, intersected by waters.

The
Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear from their language, to
come on the contrary from the North-West, and are of the same people
as the Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second journal, who are
a tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is no
question of their having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this
country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck terror into all the
other tribes whom they met; but now they have lost the respect that
was paid them; as those whom they formerly considered as barbarians
are now their allies, and consequently become better acquainted with
them, and have acquired the use of fire-arms. The former are still
proud without power, and affect to consider the others as their
inferiors: those consequently are extremely jealous of them, and,
depending upon their own superiority in numbers, will not submit
tamely to their insults; so that the consequences often prove fatal,
and the Knisteneaux are thereby decreasing both in power and number;
spirituous liquors also tend to their diminution, as they are
instigated thereby to engage in quarrels which frequently have the
most disastrous termination among themselves.

The
Stone-Indians must not be considered in the same point of view
respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have been generally obliged,
from various causes, to court their alliance. They, however, are not
without their disagreements, and it is sometimes very difficult to
compose their differences. These quarrels occasionally take place
with the traders, and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. They
generally originate in consequence of stealing women and horses: they
have great numbers of the latter throughout their plains, which are
brought, as has been observed, from the Spanish settlements in
Mexico; and many of them have been seen even in the back parts of
this country, branded with the initials of their original owners'
names. Those horses are distinctly employed as beasts of burden, and
to chase the buffalo. The former are not considered as being of much
value, as they may be purchased for a gun, which costs no more than
twenty-one shillings in Great Britain. Many of the hunters cannot be
purchased with ten, the comparative value of which exceeds the
property of any native.

Of
these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are no
longer employed, they are turned loose winter and summer to provide
for themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that the country, in
general, on the West and North side of this great river, is broken by
the lakes and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is
good, and the grass grows to some length. To these the male buffaloes
resort for the winter, and if it be very severe, the females also are
obliged to leave the plains.

But
to return to the route by which the progress West and North is made
through this continent. We leave the Saskatchiwine10 by
entering the river which forms the discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on
whose East bank is situated Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56.
North, longitude 102. 15. The distance between the entrance and
Cumberland house is estimated at twenty miles. It is very evident
that the mud which is carried down by the Saskatchiwine River, has
formed the land that lies between it and the lake, for the distance
of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the river, which is
inundated during one half of the summer, though covered with wood.
This lake forms an irregular horseshoe, one side of which runs to the
North-West, and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the other,
known by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North, and
is the largest: its length is about twenty-seven miles, and its
greatest breadth about six miles. The North side of the latter is the
same kind of rock as that described in Lake Winipic, on the West
shore. In latitude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges
itself into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the same kind of
rock, and is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course is about
West by North, and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes
its waters into the Beaver Lake the South-West side of which consists
of the same rock lying in thin stratas: the route then proceeds from
island to island for about twelve miles, and along the North shore,
for four miles more, the whole being a North-West course to the
entrance of a river, in latitude 54. 32. North. The lake, for this
distance, is about four or five miles wide, and abounds with fish
common to the country. The part of it upon the right of that which
has been described, appears more considerable. The islands are rocky,
and the lake itself surrounded by rocks. The communication from hence
to the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into rivers and spreads into
small lakes. The interruptions are, the Pente Portage, which is
succeeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a Decharge, the Carp
Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude 54. 50. North, including a
distance, together with the windings, of thirty-four miles, in a
Westerly direction. The Lake de Bouleau then follows. This lake might
with greater propriety be denominated a canal, as it is not more than
a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the East of North for
twelve miles to Portage de L'Isle. From thence there is still water
to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapid. The distance is
not more than four miles Westerly. After crossing this Portage, it is
not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which is in latitude 55. 7.
North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its breadth irregular,
from two to ten miles. It is only separated from Lake du Chitique, or
Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small strait. That lake is not
more than seven miles long, and its course about North-West. The Lake
des Bois then succeeds, the passage to which is through small lakes,
separated by falls and rapids. The first is a Decharge: then follow
the three galets, in immediate succession. From hence Lake des Bois
runs about twenty-one miles. Its course is South-South-East, and
North-North-West, and is full of islands. The passage continues
through an intricate, narrow, winding, and shallow channel for eight
miles. The interruptions in this distance are frequent, but depend
much on the state of the waters. Having passed them, it is necessary
to cross the Portage de Traite, or, as it is called by the Indians,
Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the Stretched Frog
Skin, to the Missinipi. The waters already described discharge
themselves into Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river Nelson.
These which we are now entering are called the Missinipi, or great
Churchill River.

All
the country to the South and East of this, within the line of the
progress that has been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills,
and rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur-kind, as well as the
moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are
called by the servants of the Hudson's Ray Company, at York, their
home-guards.

The
traders from Canada succeeded for several years in getting the
largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793, when the
servants of that company thought proper to send people amongst them,
(and why they did not do it before is best known to themselves), for
the purpose of trade, and securing their credits, which the Indians
were apt to forget. From the short distance they had to come, and the
quantity of goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure,
reverted to them, as the merchants from Canada could not meet them
upon equal terms. What added to the loss of the latter, was the
murder of one of their traders by the Indians, about this period. Of
these people not above eighty men have been known to the traders from
Canada, but they consist of a much greater number.

The
Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name from
Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country
from Canada, as early as the years 1774 and 1775, where he met with
the Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to
annual custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded
with him for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and in
consequence of this transaction, the Portage received and has since
retained its present appellation. He also denominated these waters
the English River. The Missinipi is the name which it received from
the Knisteneaux, when they first came to this country, and either
destroyed or drove back the natives, whom they held in great
contempt, on many accounts, but particularly for their ignorance in
hunting the beaver, as well as in preparing, stretching, and drying
the skins of those animals. And as a sign of their derision, they
stretched the skin of a frog, and hung it up at the Portage. This
was, at that time, the utmost extent of their conquest or war-faring
progress West, and is in latitude 55. 25. North, and longitude 103.
45. West. The river here, which bears the appearance of a lake, takes
its name from the Portage, and is full of islands. It runs from East
to West about sixteen miles, and is from four to five miles broad.
Then succeed falls and cascades which form what is called the grand
rapid. From thence there is a succession of small lakes and rivers,
interrupted by rapids and falls, viz., the Portage de Bareel, the
Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid River. The course is twenty
miles from East-South-East to North-North-West. The Rapid-River Lake
then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form. The rapid river is
the discharge of Lake la Rouge, where there has been an establishment
for trade from the year 1782. Since the small-pox ravaged these
parts, there have been but few inhabitants; these are of the
Knisteneaux tribe, and do not exceed thirty men. The direct
navigation continues to be through rivers and canals, interrupted by
rapids; and the distance to the first Decharge is four miles, in a
Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne, which runs
South-South-West three miles and an half, then North six miles,
through narrow channels, formed by islands, and continues
North-North-West five miles, to the portage of the same name, which
is no sooner crossed, than another appears in sight, leading to the
Otter Lake, from whence it is nine miles Westerly to the Otter
Portage, in latitude 55. 39. Between this and the Portage du Diable,
are several rapids, and the distance three miles and an half. Then
succeeds the lake of the same name, running from South-East to
North-West, five miles, and West four miles and a half.

There
is then a succession of small lakes, rapids, and falls, producing the
Portage des Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the whole
comprehending a distance of six miles, to the lake of the latter
name. On the left side is a point covered with human bones, the
relics of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Portage and the
lake this melancholy denomination. Its course is South-West fifteen
miles, while its breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence a
rapid river leads to Portage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de
L'Isle d'Ours: it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it
contains frequent impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There
is a very dangerous one about the centre of it, which is named the
Rapid qui ne park point, or that never speaks, from its silent
whirlpool-motion. In some of the whirlpools the suction is so
powerful, that they are carefully avoided. At some distance from the
silent rapid is a narrow strait, where the Indians have painted red
figures on the face of a rock, and where it was their custom formerly
to make an offering of some of the articles which they had with them,
in their way to and from Churchill. The course of this lake, which is
very meandering, may be estimated be considered as a most
extraordinary circumstance, that the Chepewyans go North-West from
hence to the barren grounds, which are their own country, without the
assistance of canoes; as it is well known that in every other part
which has been described, from Cumberland House, the country is
broken on either side of the direction to a great extent: so that a
traveller could not go at right angles with any of the waters already
mentioned, without meeting with others in every eight or ten miles.
This will also be found to be very much the case in proceeding to
Portage la Loche.

The
last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, North-West by
West; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are
sufficient to drag and set the canoes against the current. Lake
Croche is then crossed in a Westerly direction of six miles, though
its whole length may be twice that distance: after which it contracts
to a river that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend,
which is left to the South, and entering a portion of its waters
called the Grass River, whose meandering course is about six miles,
but in a direct line not more than half that length, where it
receives its waters from the great river, which then runs Westerly
eleven miles before it forms the Knee Lake, whose direction is to the
North of West. It is full of islands for eighteen miles, and its
greatest apparent breadth is not more than five miles. The portage of
the same name is several hundred yards long, and over large stones.
Its latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. Two miles further
North is the commencement of the Croche Rapid, which is a succession
of cascades for about three miles, making a bend due South to the
Lake du Primeau, whose course is various, and through islands, to the
distance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake are low,
stony, and marshy, whose grass and rushes afford shelter and food to
great numbers of wild fowl. At its Western extremity is Portage la
Puise, from whence the river takes a meandering course, widening and
contracting at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After. a
Westerly course of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From
hence, in the course of seven miles, are three rapids, to which
succeeds the Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in
circumference. Then Shagoina strait and rapid lead into the Lake of
Isle a la Crosse, in which the course is South twenty miles, and
South-South-West fourteen miles, to the Point au Sable; opposite to
which is the discharge of the Beaver-River, bearing South six miles:
the lake in the distance run, does not exceed twelve miles in its
greatest breadth. It now turns West-South-West, the Isle a la Crosse
being on the South, and the main land on the North; and it clears the
one and the other in the distance of three miles, the water
presenting an open horizon to right and left; that on the left formed
by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in depth; and that to the
right by what is called la Riviere Creuse, or Deep River, being a
canal of still water, which is here four miles wide. On following the
last course, Isle a la Crosse Fort appears on a low isthmus, at the
distance of five miles, and is in latitude 55. 25. North, and
longitude 107. 48. West.

This
lake and fort take their names from the island just mentioned, which,
as has been already observed, received its denomination from the game
of the cross, which forms a principal amusement among the natives.

The
situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish in the world
to be found in its waters, the richness of its surrounding banks and
forests, in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers of the
smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious, and the numerous
flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it
a most desirable spot for the constant residence of some, and the
occasional rendezvous of others of the inhabitants of the country,
particularly of the Knisteneaux.

Who
the original people were that were driven from it, when conquered by
the Knisteneaux, is not now known, as not a single vestige remains of
them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have
been known here; and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider
themselves as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four
years, without visiting their relations and friends in the barren
grounds, which they term their native country. They were for some
time treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies; who now allow them to
hunt to the North of the track which has been described, from Fort du
Traite upwards, but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on
contributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms. This
is sometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it
appears to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the
occasion, which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchase; and
those only who have had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux
have any inclination to drink it.

When
the Europeans first penetrated into this country, in 1777, the people
of both tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was fatal to them
all, so that there does not exist of the one, at present, more than
forty resident families; and the other has been from about thirty to
two hundred families. These numbers are applicable to the constant
and less ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet
possession of a country affording, without risk or much trouble,
every thing necessary to their comfort; for since traders have spread
themselves over it, it is no more the rendezvous of the errant
Knisteneaux, part of whom used annually to return thither from the
country of the Beaver River, which they had explored to its source in
their war and hunting excursions, and as far as the Saskatchiwine,
where they sometimes met people of their own nation, who had
prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In that country they
found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been already
described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who range in the
partial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers and lakes. From
thence they returned in the spring to their friends whom they had
left; and, at the same time met with others who had penetrated with
the same designs into the Athabasca country, which will be described
hereafter.

The
spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was
occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which were
occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious solemnity: while
the narratives of their travels, and the history of their wars,
amused and animated the festival. The time of rejoicing was but
short, and was soon interrupted by the necessary preparations for
their annual journey to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such
European articles as were now become necessary to them. The shortness
of the seasons, and the great length of their way requiring the
utmost despatch, the most active men of the tribe, with their
youngest women, and a few of their children undertook the voyage,
under the direction of some of their chiefs, following the waters
already described, to their discharge at Churchill Factory, which are
called, as has already been observed, the Missinipi, or Great Waters.
There they remained no longer than was sufficient to barter their
commodities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify themselves
with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the same time the
inconsiderable quantity they could purchase to carry away with them,
for a regale with their friends, was held sacred, and reserved to
heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amusements,
festivity, and religious solemnities of the spring were repeated. The
usual time appropriated to these convivialities being completed, they
separated, to pursue their different objects; and if they were
determined to go to war, they made the necessary arrangements for
their future operations.

But
we must now renew the progress of the route. It is not more than two
miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms a
cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere Creuse, which
preserves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles;
then contracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when
it opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open
horizon, keeping the West shore for six miles. The whole of the
distance mentioned is about North-West, when, by a narrow, crooked
channel, turning to the South of West, the entry is made into Lake du
Boeuf, which is contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy
point; independent of which it may be described as from six to twelve
miles in breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a North-West
direction. At the North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it receives the
waters of the river la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is very
shallow, and navigated with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its
water is not sufficient to form strong rapids, though from its rocky
bottom the canoes are frequently in considerable danger. Including
its meanders, the course of this river may be computed at twenty-four
miles, and receives its first waters from the lake of the same name,
which is about twenty miles long, and six wide; into which a small
river flows, sufficient to bear loaded canoes, for about a mile and
an half, where the navigation ceases; and the canoes, with their
lading, are carried over the Portage la Loche for thirteen miles.

This
portage is the ridge that divides the waters which discharge
themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the Northern
ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 15. West. It
runs South-West until it loses its local height between the
Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers; close on the bank of the former, in
latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced
in an Easterly direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude
1034. West, when it appears to take its course due North, and may
probably reach the Frozen Seas.

From
Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes display a smaller
portion of solid rock. The land is low and stony, intermixed with a
light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is
of a more productive quality: but no part of it has ever been
cultivated by the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the
Isle a la Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it.

The
Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts abounding with
stones, but in general it is an entire sand, and covered with the
cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to its
soil. Within three miles of the North-West termination, there is a
small round lake, whose diameter does not exceed a mile, and which
affords a trifling respite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile
of the termination of the Portage is a very steep precipice, whose
ascent and descent appears to be equally impracticable in any way, as
it consists of a succession of eight hills, some of which are almost
perpendicular; nevertheless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all
these difficulties, even with their canoes and lading.

This
precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the plain
beneath it, commands a most extensive, romantic, and ravishing
prospect. From thence the eye looks down on the course of the little
river, by some called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water
and Pelican river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty
miles. The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is
about three miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of
equal height, displaying a most beautiful intermixture of wood and
lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist obscures the prospect.
Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests,
relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, where the elk and
buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has
destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Nor, when I
beheld this wonderful display of uncultivated nature, was the moving
scenery of human occupation wanting to complete the picture. From
this elevated situation, I beheld my people, diminished, as it were,
to half their size, employed in pitching their tents in a charming
meadow, and among the canoes, which, being turned upon their sides,
presented their reddened bottoms in contrast with the surrounding
verdure. At the same time, the process of gumming them produced
numerous small spires of smoke, which, as they rose, enlivened the
scene, and at length blended with the larger columns that ascended
from the fires where the suppers were preparing. It was in the month
of September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not presume to
give an adequate description; and as it was the rutting season of the
elk, the whistling of that animal was heard in all the variety which
the echoes could afford it.

This
river, which waters and reflects such enchanting scenery, runs,
including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges
itself in the Elk River, according to the denomination of the
natives, but commonly called by the white people, the Athabasca
River, in latitude 56. 42. North.

At
a small distance from Portage la Loche, several carrying-places
interrupt the navigation of the river; about the middle of which are
some mineral springs, whose margins are covered with sulphureous
incrustations. At the junction or fork, the Elk River is about three
quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a steady current,
sometimes contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, after
receiving several small streams, it discharges itself into the Lake
of the Hills, in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles
from the Fork, are some bituminous fountains, into which a pole of
twenty feet long may be inserted without the least resistance. The
bitumen is in a fluid state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous
substance collected from the spruce fir, serves to gum the canoes. In
its heated state it emits a smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of
the river, which are there very elevated, discover veins of the same
bituminous quality. At a small distance from the Fork, houses have
been erected for the convenience of trading with a party of the
Knisteneaux, who visit the adjacent country for the purpose of
hunting.

At
the distance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old
Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr.
Pond in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part of
the world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788 it was transferred to
the Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on its Southern side, at
about eight miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort
Chepewyan, and is in latitude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West,
and much better situated for trade and fishing as the people here
have recourse to water for their support.

This
being the place which I made my headquarters for eight years, and
from whence I took my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give
some account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there,
and other circumstances connected with it.

The
laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the first of August, do
not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of
October, when a necessary proportion of them is despatched up the
Peace River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians.
Others are sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and
traffic with the inhabitants of that country. A small part of them,
if not left at the Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the
Knisteneaux, while the rest of the people and merchandise remain
here, to carry on trade with the Chepewyans.

Here
have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any provision
for their sustenance; for whatever quantity might have been obtained
from the natives during the summer, it could not be more than
sufficient for the people despatched to their different posts; and
even if there were a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary
to preserve it untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole
dependence, therefore, of those who remained, was on the lake, and
fishing implements for the means of our support. The nets are sixty
fathom in length, when set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches
in depth. The manner of using them is as follows: A small stone and
wooden buoy are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at
about the distance of two fathoms; when the net is carefully thrown
into the water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy
keeps it at its full extent, and it is secured in its situation by a
stone at either end. The nets are visited every day, and taken out
every other day to be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready
operation when the waters are not frozen, but when the frost has set
in, and the ice has acquired its greatest thickness, which is
sometimes as much as five feet, holes are cut in it at the distance
of thirty feet from each other, to the full length of the net; one of
them is larger than the rest, being generally about four feet square,
and is called the basin: by means of them, and poles of a
proportionable length, the nets are placed in and drawn out of the
water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple an employment as
to render a description unnecessary. The white fish are the principal
object of pursuit: they spawn in the fall of the year, and, at about
the setting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the shallow
water, when as many as possible are taken, in order that a portion of
them may be laid by in the frost to provide against the scarcity of
winter; as, during that season, the fish of every description
decrease in the lakes, if they do not altogether disappear. Some have
supposed that during this period they are stationary, or assume an
inactive state. If there should be any intervals of warm weather
during the fall, it is necessary to suspend the fish by the tail,
though they are not so good as those which are altogether preserved
by the frost. In this state they remain to the beginning of April,
when they have been found as sweet as when they were caught.11

Thus
do these voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fish, without
even the quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of any
farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not
rendered it unnecessary, might be obtained in this country to the
Westward of the Peace River, where it loses its name in that of the
Slave River, from the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found
there, which will supply in any quantity, in a state of concretion,
and perfectly white and clean. When the Indians pass that way they
bring a small quantity to the fort, with other articles of traffic.

During
a short period of the spring and fall, great numbers of wild fowl
frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after such
a long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the
Canadians who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin
rivers, and live altogether on venison, have a less healthy
appearance than those whose sustenance is obtained from the waters.
At the same time the scurvy is wholly unknown among them.

In
the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where
they barter the furs or provisions which they may have procured: they
then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not
return till the beginning of the year; when they are again fitted out
in the same manner and come back the latter end of March, or the
beginning of April. They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver
hunt until the waters are clear of ice, that they may kill them with
fire-arms, which the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The major part
of the latter return to the barren grounds, and live during the
summer with their relations and friends in the enjoyment of that
plenty which is derived from numerous herds of deer. But those of
that tribe who are most partial to these deserts, cannot remain there
in winter, and they are obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in
the woods during that rigorous season, when they contrive to kill a
few beavers, and send them by young men, to exchange for iron
utensils and ammunition.

Till
the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or carried their furs
regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them have,
since that time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could have
provided themselves with all the necessaries which they required. The
difference of the price set on goods here and at the factory, made it
an object with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five or six
months, in the course of which they were reduced to the most painful
extremities, and often lost their lives from hunger and fatigue. At
present, however, this traffic is in a great measure discontinued, as
they were obliged to expend in the course of their journey, that very
ammunition which was its most alluring object.

______________________

1
This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it
included, with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the
property unexpended, which had been appropriated for the adventure of
that year, and was carried on to the account of the following
adventure.

2
This will be better illustrated by the following statement: — We
will suppose the goods for 1798: The orders for the goods are sent to
this country 25th October, 1796; they are shipped from London March,
1797; they arrive in Montreal June, 1797; they are made up in the
course of that summer and winter; they are sent from Montreal May,
1798; they arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for furs
the following winter, 1798-99; which furs come to Montreal September,
1799; and are shipped for London, where they are sold in March and
April, and paid for in May or June, 1800.

3
The place where the goods alone are carried, is called a Decharge,
and that where goods and canoes are both transported overland, is
denominated a Portage.

4
In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the South of
this lake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate,
that about this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted,
emigrated to the Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake
Superior. Few of their descendants are now remaining, and not a trace
of the religion communicated to them is to be discovered.

5
Corn Is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the
expense of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings
sterling, at the Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not
exceed ten-pence.

6
Here is a most excellent fishery for white fish, which are exquisite.

7
The route which we have been travelling hitherto leads along
the high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of
the country offers a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by
stony valleys, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it
is well covered with trees.

10
It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements upon
the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the
first at the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi,
where they had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of
both being found about those establishments, where the soil is
excellent.

11
This fishery requires the most unremitting attention, as the voyaging
Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, when
left to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the morrow.