The brand expanded its array of custom fabrics, including a peach-colored floral jacquard with orange chevrons printed atop—presumably a reference to Peaks' namesake landmark—whipped into A-line skirts, a trench, and a tent dress.Tags: Kaelen | Kaelen Official Website: www.kaelennyc.com

Lisa Perry changed up her venue this season, forgoing her typical store presentation for a private residence with a heck of a view of the Queensboro Bridge.Tags: Lisa Perry | Lisa Perry Official Website: www.lisaperrystyle.com

Today, at Protagonist's fashion week debut, a cadre of some of the runways' coolest new faces—Magdalena Jasek, Kristina Petrosiute, Hedvig Palm—sulked through a spare, modernist set looking lovely and utterly unaffected.Tags: Protagonist | Protagonist Official Website: www.protagonist.com

This year marks Trina Turk's 20th in business. And while the early tenets of the line are still in place—retro-inspired prints and silhouettes, always with a Californian attitude—the customer's obsessions have changed. Tags: Trina Turk | Trina Turk Official Website: www.trinaturk.com

For Ji Oh, home is where the heart is this Fall. The designer zeroed in on the kind of pieces you'd want to put on for working from home—sans the sweats.Tags: Ji Oh | Ji Oh Official Website: www.jiohny.com

There may be no sight more mundanely depressing than gray, New York garbage snow. Great lumps of the stuff were piled up outside Tess Giberson's shop in Nolita, where the designer presented her new collection today.Tags: Tess Giberson | Tess Giberson Official Website: www.tessgiberson.com

Does a Margot Tenenbaum reference induce a collective sigh at this point? Has Wes Anderson's most regularly name-checked, oft-imitated heroine jumped the shark? It's up for debate, but Clare Waight Keller's interpretation of Margot and of the Anderson universe for See by Chloé's Fall outing didn't suffer for it.Tags: See by Chloe | See by Chloe Official Website: www.chloe.com

Trademark just turned one; if it has a reputation yet, it's for clothes with a surprising amount of polish for the price. Good value for money. It sounds like an idea a mother could get behind.Tags: Trademark | Trademark Official Website: www.trade-mark.com

Gary Graham's evident love of aesthetic archaeology is nothing if not compelling. Season after season he flouts the modish, instead plumbing libraries or museum archives.Tags: Gary Graham | Gary Graham Official Website: www.garygrahamnyc.com

Since Tina Lutz took the reins at TSE in 2012, the cashmere label has subscribed to a clean, sculptural aesthetic rooted in art and architecture. Sharp lines, classic silhouettes, and, of course, super-luxe fabrics have been the main focus, which is why Fall felt like a bit of a departure.Tags: TSE | TSE Official Website: www.tsecashmere.com

Last season Tomas Maier designed a black velvet suit for men, and so many women who saw it asked for one in their size, he added it to his new Fall lineup.Tags: Tomas Maier | Tomas Maier Official Website: www.tomasmaier.com

With three major exhibitions this year, it's no wonder that James Turrell's reverie-inducing LED fixtures have inspired multiple fashion labels, including, most recently, Escada.Tags: Escada | Escada Official Website: www.escada.com

Amid all of the organic textiles and artisanal elements (tassels, fringe, tapestry embroidery) that have been in play this season, Elie Tahari's clean, sporty lineup felt fresh and different.Tags: Elie Tahari | Elie Tahari Official Website: www.elietahari.com

Count on Dean and Dan Caten to come up with a theme and really run with it—even during in-between seasons, when most designers are focusing on pumping out commercial hits. Tags: DSquared | DSquared Official Website: www.dsquared2.com

Dennis Basso is in a celebratory mood. Fresh off the thirtieth anniversary of his label, the furrier has opened a four-story shop in a Madison Avenue town house.Tags: Dennis Basso | Dennis Basso Official Website: www.dennisbasso.com

It's been a mutually beneficial match since way back in 1957, when Neiman Marcus' Stanley Marcus, having embraced Coco Chanel's 1954 comeback collection even as the French rejected it, gave Chanel the store's Award for Distinguished Service in the field of fashion.Tags: Chanel | Chanel Official Website: www.chanel.com

Tory Burch's icons are often drawn from the arts: Celluloid swans like Romy Schneider, muse of her Spring collection, or Adele Bloch-Bauer, gilded angel of Gustav Klimt, who haunted her line last Fall.Tags: Tory Burch | Tory Burch Official Website: www.toryburch.com

The element of surprise in Alexander Wang's Pre-Fall collection was its emphasis on deconstruction, and his new T lineup echoed that same theme, with many pieces featuring raw edges, fringe details, and unfinished seams.Tags: T by Alexander Wang | T by Alexander Wang Official Website: www.alexanderwang.com

The urban oasis also served as the jumping-off point for the latest Yeohlee lineup, filled with pretty, natural colors like powder pink, pewter gray, and verdant green.Tags: Yeohlee | Yeohlee Official Website: www.yeohlee.com

Gordon was just a babe in the nineties, but like many of his peers, he was inspired by that era—particularly the elegance of the supermodels and, even if he didn't mention her, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.Tags: Wes Gordon | Wes Gordon Official Website: www.wesgordon.com

Back in the day, Shanghai was nicknamed the Paris of the East, and the city's PYTs wore a uniform of cheongsams and styled their hair in marcel waves.Tags: Vivienne Tam | Vivienne Tam Official Website: www.viviennetam.com

The best of the lot has got to be the long pearl chains on his cross-body bags, made in collaboration with the Japanese jewelry company Tasaki, with whom Panichgul has a long-running partnership.Tags: Thakoon | Thakoon Official Website: www.thakoon.com

While heritage isn't a term that really applies to a label less than five years old, it was the buzzword at the T by Alexander Wang showroom yesterday, which was bustling with retailers placing their Spring orders.Tags: T by Alexander Wang | T by Alexander Wang Official Website: www.alexanderwang.com

And much of the success of this outing had to do with Alan's materials, especially his sheer-ish white tulles and soft, Japanese discharge print denim.Tags: Steven Alan | Steven Alan Official Website: www.stevenalan.com

A pair of wings was the symbol that Rachel Roy chose as her logo when she launched her label nearly ten years ago, and she revisited it for Spring.Tags: Rachel Roy | Rachel Roy Official Website: www.rachelroy.com

But cue a George Harrison medley on the sound system and Karlie Kloss gliding onto the runway in a double-face gilet, cardigan, and pencil skirt, and the crowd perked right up.Tags: Oscar De La Renta | Oscar De La Renta Official Website: www.oscardelarenta.com

Though the latest Crew womenswear collection was inspired, in part, by California surf culture, Mora got somewhere richer and stranger by strapping that reference to a theme of summer on the Venice Lido, circa the turn of the twentieth century.Tags: J.Crew | J.Crew Official Website: www.jcrew.com

After aiming for a more youthful audience in recent seasons, for Spring, Escada refocused on its core clientele of mature women who wouldn't be caught dead in a crop top.Tags: Escada | Escada Official Website: www.escada.com

That's what Danielle Sherman was given after being appointed creative director at Edun, the LVMH-backed, ethically sourced collection that was founded in 2005 by U2's Bono and his wife Ali Hewson.Tags: Edun | Edun Official Website: www.edun.com

In the second half of the lineup, floaty floral maxi numbers and an asymmetric black, beaded tulle gown felt more familiar for BCBG, but they didn't have the freshness as those opening shirtdresses.Tags: BCBG Max Azria | BCBG Max Azria Official Website: www.bcbg.com

The collection started with a set of navy and white looks for day, and it starred the most perfect summer tweed: a navy taffeta threaded with a white cotton slub, which was made into several separates, including a boxy cropped jacket and a formfitting trumpet skirt.Tags: Badgley Mischka | Badgley Mischka Official Website: www.badgleymischka.com

A little of this, a little of that. A good cook has the confidence to improvise. And this season, Band of Outsiders honcho Scott Sternberg threw a myriad of flavors into his pot.Tags: Band of Outsiders | Band of Outsiders Official Website: www.bandofoutsiders.com

There was a definite eclecticism about the new collection, which was underscored by the custom tattoos Scott Campbell painted on the models for the occasionTags: Marchesa | Marchesa Official Website: www.marchesa.com

When Anna Sui saw them in the Tate's Pre-Raphaelite retrospective at the beginning of this year, she knew she'd found her inspiration for Spring 2014Tags: Anna Sui | Anna Sui Official Website: www.annasui.com

It's funny that Alice + Olivia designer Stacey Bendet started the brand in 2002 based on a pair of great-fitting pants, because these days the line is best known for girly cocktail dresses.Tags: Alice Olivia | Alice Olivia Official Website: www.aliceandolivia.com

Boy and Girl have parted ways. This season, Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg decided to showcase his Boy by Band of Outsiders collection on its own, rather than in the omnibus format of previous shows.Tags: Band of Outsiders | Band of Outsiders Official Website: www.bandofoutsiders.com

Victoria Beckham has been spending a lot of time with her customers, and trunk shows on three different continents this summer (Asia, North America, and Europe, in case you were wondering) taught her something.Tags: Victoria Beckham | Victoria Beckham Official Website: www.victoriabeckham.com

It may be that Haynes does well with her prints because the weirder, creepier, or more jarring they are, the more they cut the treacle of her girly looks.Tags: Calla | Calla Official Website: www.calla.fr

Wang is just about as It as you can get in New York fashion at the moment, and he delivered on his reputation, sending out a focused Spring collection that put his strong, singular vision on display.Tags: Alexander Wang | Alexander Wang Official Website: www.alexanderwang.com

A tracksuit in a blue and red etched floral had the blouson proportions of Issey Miyake; long, nearly knee-grazing tunics worn over full-leg pants were also striking.Tags: Suno | Suno Official Website: www.sunony.com

The first point of difference was the color: surfer-bright slashes of orange or sea blue that appeared on a color-blocked tank dress or a reversible leather jacketTags: Helmut Lang | Helmut Lang Official Website: www.helmutlang.com

Take the low-slung black leather trousers on Aymeline, finished with racing stripes, or the seriously cool moto vests and jackets made out of luxe Italian silk satin.Tags: Rag&Bone | Rag&Bone Official Website: www.rag-bone.com

Minkoff also took a risk with an open-back, utility-style jumpsuit and a pair of snakeskin overalls, but managed to pull them both off as only a true Minkette can. Tags: Rebecca Minkoff | Rebecca Minkoff Official Website: www.rebeccaminkoff.com

Leather ones overlaid most of the crepe dresses and gowns she and her husband sent out in their new collection, which traded the pop colors of last season for a more muted palette of talc, coral, black, white, and cream.Tags: BCBG Max Azria | BCBG Max Azria Official Website: www.bcbg.com

Steven Alan has been presenting at New York Fashion Week for the past four seasons, so it was surprising when his name was missing from the official fashion calendar.Tags: Steven Alan | Steven Alan Official Website: www.stevenalan.com

Gary Graham is a font of esoteric knowledge. He designs for women who appreciate his cerebral reference points, or maybe just have a taste for romantic clothes with antique appeal.Tags: Gary Graham | Gary Graham Official Website: www.garygrahamnyc.com

Vivienne Tam has mastered the art of contrast. With her new Resort collection, she adapted circular tribal graphics of the mandala and geometric Buddhist symbols to her urban aesthetic.Tags: Vivienne Tam | Vivienne Tam Official Website: www.viviennetam.com

Based on her eclectic collections and the daring, vampy outfit she wore to last week's CFDA Awards, you wouldn't necessarily take Jen Kao for an avid sports fan.Tags: Jen Kao | Jen Kao Official Website: www.kao.com

Evening looks made up the entirety of Carlos Miele's Resort collection, but that didn't mean this was totally business as usual from the festive-minded Brazilian designer.Tags: Carlos Miele | Carlos Miele Official Website: www.carlosmiele.com.br

Ruffian A lot has changed in the 100-plus years since Edward VII popularized the tail-less jacket. Yves Saint Laurent famously put a woman in a tux—he called it Le Smoking—way back in 1966.Tags: Ruffian | Ruffian Official Website: www.ruffian.com

For his second outing at Bill Blass, Jeffrey Monteiro gave an intimate presentation at the Monkey Bar. Guests huddled in leather booths, while waiters passed out flutes of bubbly and mini lobster rolls.Tags: Bill Blass | Bill Blass Official Website: www.billblass.com

The Séeberger brothers—street-style photographers, albeit of the early twentieth century, rather than the early twenty-first—gave Jason Wu his jumping-off point for the season. Tags: Jason Wu | Jason Wu Official Website: www.jasonwustudio.com

You can tell it's a Naeem Khan show by the glamorous detritus—ostrich feathers, sequins, jet-black beads—that decorates the catwalk by the finale.Tags: Naeem Khan | Naeem Khan Official Website: www.naeemkhan.com

You didn't need to know that Kate and Laura Mulleavy had been watching the Terrence Malick movie Days of Heaven to ascertain that the sisters had taken the American Plains as their latest inspiration.Tags: Rodarte | Rodarte Official Website: www.rodarte.net

Over the past few seasons, G-Star has scaled back its runway shows considerably. Gone are the VIP Champagne service, moving runways, and plethora of random celebrities. Wait—scratch that last bit. Tags: G-STAR | G-STAR Official Website: www.g-star.nl

Last season, for his second Halston collection, Marios Schwab did a 180, seeming to jettison his initial creative vision for something that suggested diligent study of the label's archives.Tags: Halston | Halston Official Website: www.halston.com

Considering they're English girls with highly romantic sensibilities, it's surprising that Marchesa's Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have never considered a real moment of Victoriana until today.Tags: Marchesa | Marchesa Official Website: www.marchesa.com

Stripped of all the ornamentation, one could imagine almost any aspiring gossip girl and her mother wearing a graphic navy shift with a peekaboo gold inverted pleat.Tags: Milly | Milly Official Website: www.millyny.com

In her time, Madeleine Vionnet was such an arch-modernist that her innovations haunt fashion to this very day, which means Rodolfo Paglialunga faces a peculiar challenge in making Vionnet more contemporary.Tags: Vionnet | Vionnet Official Website: www.vionnet.com

Lily Donaldson in linen-toned tulle patterned in gold beads, her head wreathed in gold leaves and wheat sheaves. No lovelier way for the designer to close the book on her first two decades in business.Tags: Anna Sui | Anna Sui Official Website: www.annasui.com

The jumping-off point for Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos' new collection was the mash-up of classic and modern. In particular, Shipley cited Peter Saville's famous cover for New Order's Power, Corruption & Lies. The stiff Fantin-Latour still life overlaid with Saville's self-created, color-coded bars? It could be juxtaposition's finest moment.Tags: Shipley Halmos | Shipley Halmos Official Website: www.shipley-halmos.com

First things first: The insanely cute printed wedges and flats designed by Suno in conjunction with Loeffler Randall will indeed be available for purchase come spring.Tags: Suno | Suno Official Website: www.sunony.com

If you were looking for a sign of just how big a trend minimalism is, you could find it at the Sachin + Babi for Ankasa presentation on the first day of New York fashion week.Tags: Sachin Babi | Sachin Babi Official Website: www.sachinandbabi.com

After putting her signature line on hold in 2005 to take a position at TSE, where she remained until 2008, Tess Giberson is back on the fashion calendar. Tags: Tess Giberson | Tess Giberson Official Website: www.tessgiberson.com

Timo Weiland and his partner in design, Alan Eckstein, called their new collection A Wharf on the Baltic. If there's a competition for the season's most awkward title, I think we've found a winner.Tags: Timo Weiland | Timo Weiland Official Website: www.timoweiland.com

Some pieces were lingerielike, dressed in prints based on Theyskens' own paintings; and there was a wide array of denim, from high-waisted flares to cornflower blue cropped jeans specially treated to look permanently wrinkled.Tags: Theyskens' Theory | Theyskens' Theory Official Website: www.weeken.cc

It's not every day that designers brand-new to the runway score front-row coups like Chloë Sevigny and Oscar nominee Carey Mulligan. But then, The Row's Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen aren't your everyday designers. Tags: The Row | The Row Official Website: www.therow.com

The title of Joaquín Trías' show was Seized Movement, and what that meant for the Madrid-based designer was an exploration of air's effect on the clothes we wear.Tags: Trias | Trias Official Website: www.weeken.cc

These designers have always preferred elegance to edge, but this season, the results looked more effortless, without the superfluous extras that have proven a bit too distracting in the past.Tags: Vena Cava | Vena Cava Official Website: www.venacavadesign.co.uk

The look was sporty and slicked to the body, the kind of thing that no-fuss urban girls will want. An inverted petal shape informed the silhouette of dresses and, quite beautifully, the extra-long split-front skirt that closed the show.Tags: Wayne | Wayne Official Website: www.weeken.cc

Only one dress out of the 26 Victoria Beckham showed today featured a corset. That's groundbreaking news for a glamour puss who looks so pulled together in paparazzi snapshots you'd swear she wears a waist cincher to the gym. Tags: Victoria Beckham | Victoria Beckham Official Website: www.victoriabeckham.com

Pieces like a color-blocked crepe dress with an exposed back or an ankle-length white gown with a corded rope detail suggest it's the right one.Tags: Yigal Azrouel | Yigal Azrouel Official Website: www.yigal-azrouel.com

As his starting point for Resort, Chris Benz was thinking of the midcentury ceramist Sascha Brastoff, whose Los Angeles milieu included another of the collection's muses, Carmen Miranda.Tags: Chris Benz | Chris Benz Official Website: www.chris-benz.com

Evening looks made up the entirety of Carlos Miele's Resort collection, but that didn't mean this was totally business as usual from the festive-minded Brazilian designer.Tags: Carlos Miele | Carlos Miele Official Website: www.carlosmiele.com.br

Jeffrey Monteiro must have felt daunted, as the fifth design director to take the reins at Bill Blass since its namesake designer retired in 1999.Tags: Bill Blass | Bill Blass Official Website: www.billblass.com

How does Yigal Azrouël update his signature slouchy-cool silhouettes and washed fabrics in the context of fashion's current minimalism obsession?Tags: Yigal Azrouel | Yigal Azrouel Official Website: www.yigal-azrouel.com

In her time, Madeleine Vionnet was such an arch-modernist that her innovations haunt fashion to this very day, which means Rodolfo Paglialunga faces a peculiar challenge in making Vionnet more contemporary.Tags: Vionnet | Vionnet Official Website: www.vionnet.com

With the phone ringing off the hook with requests for his sexy little party dresses, Peter Dundas made sure to include plenty of them in his latest collection for Pucci.Tags: Emilio Pucci | Emilio Pucci Official Website: www.emiliopucci.com

After a Fall collection for Chloé that erred perhaps too much on the side of ladylike, Hannah MacGibbon has produced a more youthful lineup this time around.Tags: Chloe | Chloe Official Website: www.chloe.com

Worked into daywear pieces like a laced safari top, paper bag-waisted shorts, and a bow-trimmed miniskirt, they looked cool instead of trad and exuded the Tags: Tory Burch | Tory Burch Official Website: www.toryburch.com

Giorgio Armani continued the exploration of eighties style that he began in earnest with his Fall collection, except this time around he did it with bright colors and bold geometric prints instead of his accustomed shades of grayTags: Armani | Armani Official Website: www.giorgioamarni.com