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Show report: Stockholm Fashion Week SS14

by Emma Holmqvist Deacon — August 30, 2013

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm (Aug 26-28) came to a close on Wednesday night. The seventh edition of the event attracted a high number of international visitors; buyers and press members from the UK seemed particularly keen to find out what the likes of Back, Filippa K, Cheap Monday, Dagmar, Carin Wester, Altewaisaome and Whyred had in store for next spring.

The styles presented on the catwalk were unusually diverse, proving that the raw Acne look is not the only aesthetic the Swedes can pull off. Queen of theatrical lightheartedness Bea Szenfeld raised appreciative laughs with a surreal exercise in voluminous origami splendor, while Cheap Monday’s androgynous and largely monochrome take on grunge hovered at the other end of the stylistic spectrum.

As for the practical side of the event, Bukowskis auction house joined the fold for the first time to provide a third venue in addition to the long-established MBFWS hubs Berns Salonger and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Pavilion. The prestigious art establishment, which is located a stone’s throw from Berns Salonger, housed a jewelry showcase and put on a string of runway shows. “We’re extremely proud to have taken part,” said Malin Sveholm, manager of home valuation and theme auctions at Bukowskis. “Our heritage and international standing as the largest auction house in the fields of arts and crafts in the Nordic region is perfectly suited to the week, since we operate vintage auctions and consider fashion to be an important contemporary cultural expression of art – and one that we’re delighted to be able to support.”

Another indication that Swedish fashion is being taken more seriously as a viable cultural expression is the fact that fashion designer Pär Engsheden bagged the government issued award Illis Quorum Meruere Labores this year. The award ceremony was aptly held during MBFWS as this is the first time a fashion figure has been given the prize. Engsheden managed the feat by displaying notable skill in design and tailoring, and maintaining a high level of craftsmanship in his work. Industry luminary Margareta van den Bosch, meanwhile, received an award for her longstanding effort to bring international success to Swedish fashion and consistently helping to stimulate growth of Swedish designers.