Nice. I still trip out on how I actually felt an improvement with the K&N - but not until the ECU was reset.

I didn't really feel a difference when I did it in the Vios. I felt a big difference when I got the K&N Typhoon intake for it. I didn't feel like dropping that kind of cash for Dory tho. I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow to see if I can find any tubing that's the same diameter as the inlet hole for the snorkel/silencer tube. That way I can plumb it to get fresh, cooler air.

Funny thing is with the FR-S, I felt a negative difference with a SRI. Loss of power, loss of driveability, bogging down. Went back to the K&N drop in for it (which I felt a positive difference from the OEM filter).

Yeah, I guess the FR-S intake is pretty efficient and optimized. It has a duct that leads to the front bumper to pull in fresh/cooler air. There's not much restriction in the intake system either, so a drop in filter is all you really need for the FR-S unless you want to get rid of the intake noise generator and/or dress up the engine bay.

For me, it just wasn't worth it. I don't drive in the top end very much, so any "gains" that an aftermarket intake could potentially give in the FR-S wasn't worth the sacrifice of abysmal low end performance. With the stock intake, bumper to bumper traffic is manageable, and flooring it from a standstill is possible. With that Injen SRI, bumper to bumper was horrible because of the heat soak (engine would almost stall out). Flooring it from a standstill was impossible. Engine revs, but then would bog down and car wouldn't accelerate, just bucks. Totally not safe in an emergency situation.

I didn't really feel a difference when I did it in the Vios. I felt a big difference when I got the K&N Typhoon intake for it. I didn't feel like dropping that kind of cash for Dory tho. I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow to see if I can find any tubing that's the same diameter as the inlet hole for the snorkel/silencer tube. That way I can plumb it to get fresh, cooler air.

Funny thing is with the FR-S, I felt a negative difference with a SRI. Loss of power, loss of driveability, bogging down. Went back to the K&N drop in for it (which I felt a positive difference from the OEM filter).

A 3" silicone intake coupler clamps right on the snorkle dick sticking out of the airbox. Look at the passenger side of the radiator/core support...there is a filler panel with a spot thats money for a high pressure outside air feed (kinda like whats stock on an Gt86)

A 3" silicone intake coupler clamps right on the snorkle dick sticking out of the airbox. Look at the passenger side of the radiator/core support...there is a filler panel with a spot thats money for a high pressure outside air feed (kinda like whats stock on an Gt86)

Also did you remove the carbon trap out of the air lid yet?

I popped the hydrocarbon trap out. I removed the silencer tube. I would want the duct to have the least amount of bends in it, so I was just thinking of routing it from the opening left behind by removing the silencer tube, down towards the ground near the splash guard. Do you think it'll be more beneficial to route it from the opening along the radiator fan, and do the passenger side of the radiator support you mentioned?

High pressure air is better then low pressure. You can probably pull it off with mainly a 90* bend to face forward. I think its pretty much a straight shot past the fans. But then you must consider possibly using reflective heat wrap to help with the heat coming off the radiator.

Its something Ive always wanted to try and just never got to.

I used to run a 'hot air' duct that took air off the exhaust side to help reclaim lost MPG during the winter. Killed power but hey 50+ during winter on winter fuel

High pressure air is better then low pressure. You can probably pull it off with mainly a 90* bend to face forward. I think its pretty much a straight shot past the fans. But then you must consider possibly using reflective heat wrap to help with the heat coming off the radiator.

Its something Ive always wanted to try and just never got to.

I used to run a 'hot air' duct that took air off the exhaust side to help reclaim lost MPG during the winter. Killed power but hey 50+ during winter on winter fuel

Considering I sit in stop and go traffic on pretty much a daily basis, I don't want to have to deal with heat soaking (which was what I was afraid of in your idea). Plus, I won't be using the snorkel at all. Right now, I'm fine with the opening by itself since it's been cold lately, but once warmer temps start again, I must have that opening filled with the ducting work.

Are there any high pressure areas on the driver's side? How can you find out where high pressure areas are at anyway?

Basically any source of air from ahead of the radiator/condenser. About 1/4 of the surface area of the heat exchangers actually flow air...so all that extra air needs to go somewhere. This is where most OEMs source outside higher pressure air to aid in performance

Basically any source of air from ahead of the radiator/condenser. About 1/4 of the surface area of the heat exchangers actually flow air...so all that extra air needs to go somewhere. This is where most OEMs source outside higher pressure air to aid in performance

So if I can some how route the ducting to the side, bottom, or top of the radiator, it should be sufficient? I saw an article online about how on an NA gen Miata, there was a good duct placement at the cowl. I don't think the Yaris has any space near the cowl tho.

Ive seen FiST cars with a cowl intake...maybe Ill take a look at mine tomorrow and see if thats feasible.

But yeah a path with direct access to air ahead of the radiators will do the job

FiST cars?

I'll have to take a look around the radiator on the driver side to see where the best access would be.

But first thing's first, didn't realize the OEM battery in the FR-S is weak, so after not driving it for 9 to 10 days, I went to start it and was denied (lol). So I gotta a find a jumper pack (don't own one and no longer have cables).

You sir have a bad battery or a draw. 10days a healthy battery shouldnt even bat an eye to start a car. Its not a diesel semi truck in -20 westher

Good ol Subaru to thank for since they're the ones that made the FRS. Other owners experience the same thing, and my friend who is a service advisor for a Subaru dealership said he sees it all the time there since Subaru uses weak batteries in relation to their cars electrical system. I just gotta drive it once a week at least.