This year we celebrated the holidays with Ila. No, not a distant aunt who came over to visit nor an addition to the family, but a much loved new pattern by Coffee&Thread.

The Ila dress pattern is perfect for making a warm winter dress. The a-line shape makes it easy to use thicker fabrics and the optional full lining can be used to create extra warmth. But the lines on the front (with hidden pockets!) really turn this little dress into a special one for me. Is it just me, or does this scream for piping? The pattern does not include specific instructions on how to use piping, and I recommend these tips to anyone who feels a bit insecure about this.

For this testversion I used a soft corduroy, lined with a very soft Roomseven fabric which I also used to make the piping. The length in this dress is still a bit short, which I like. However, in the final pattern a bit extra length was added, so everyone can decide for themselves what length they consider decent ;)

The dress was an instant hit, and was even chosen to be her Christmas dress!

Today I introduce our Little red ridinghood. The first coat I made her was a bit cold for a real winter, and as coat sewing turns out to be very addicting, I decided to make her a second one.

The pattern is the Louisa coat again, but with a few changes. We wouldn't want two of the same coats! The typical louisa front pockets were replaced by a new one, matching the piping lines on the back. The front of the coat looks a bit plain now, but that was quickly cured by adding some detachable fur on the hood. The fur is fake, of course. No hunting trips were involved in the making of this coat! For practical reasons I added little magnet closures to the zipper flaps and thumb holes (dutch tutorial here) in the sleeve cuffs.

To create optimal warmth, I chose all natural materials. Woolen for the outer fabric, woolen batting and a cotton lining. To make the outer fabric a bit water resistant I used a lanolin bath. I followed these tips to work with batting and lining in one layer. The lining is by Cotton&Steel, a very nice quality cotton. The hanging loop was made out of the fabric's selvage, which was just too pretty to waste. As the pattern is designed for a slightly thinner batting, I sized up and shortened the sleeves. It fit's perfectly now.

Sewing tips

Woolen batting and ironing are not best friends. Ironing will flatten your batting and it won't recover. Hmmm, wonder why I know that... If you like to iron your lining seams open while sewing, put on a damp cloth and tilt your iron carefully so you only flatten one or two cm at both sides of your seam. The same applies for ironing the hem of your coat in the end!

The left part of the zipper on my first coat was a bit wonky. This time I folded the upper part of the zipper back, slightly tilted. The zipper is not sewn in the seam on top and dissapears nicely in the side seam. Problem solved!Should you want to try sewing detachable fur trimming yourself, make sure to gather some patience. The hair in the fur seem to have a very strong will to creep underneath your sewing foot when you don't want them there. To prevent this, I first made a tunnel by sewing the fur and fabric right sides together on both sides. After turning it, I put some tape on the fur on both sides right next to the seam. This helps to keep it out of the way, so you can topstitch quite close to the edge. I'll happily provide some visuals if needed.Pattern: Louisa coat by Compagnie M.Outer fabric: wool felt, bought locallyBatting: Quilters dream woolLining: Les Fleurs (Riflepaperco) for Cotton&Steel

Petit a petit patterns launched another new pattern: the Friday dress. This shirtdress is a perfect pattern for a dressy outfit, but with the right fabric choice it is also fine for a daily playing dress.

The bodice is quite form fitted, while the skirt makes any girl twirl. With three collar options, short or long sleeves, a full skirt or an a-line, this pattern can be customized to every taste. I made the 'slim version', both bodice and skirt without gathers, inseam pockets and the belt. I kept the dress fabric neutral, so I can easily combine with different belts (and different outfits).

Even though this is not really a beginners pattern, the fenomenal instructions ensured I had no problems during the sewing process. If you don't own a sewing pattern by petit a petit, you should buy one, just to see the instructions once. Really, they're incredibly good! The only real challenge was the 100% cotton chambray, that turned out to be very much of something else when I ironed it. Oops!

The sizes range from 9 months to 12 years, and printing options include A4 and A0 (or wide format for copyshop) and layered printing.

You can still buy the pattern with a 25% discount today only via here, so if you want it, hurry!

Petit a Petit is on a roll, and launches the second pattern in a row this week: the Loverall skirt. The first pattern, the Loverall dungarees got some of the testers talking about hacking possibilities, resulting in this full new pattern.

The upper part of the pattern is identical to the dungarees, with three different bib options. The high bib with heart pocket I showed you last week, a lower waistband and a high bib with button closure. The skirt can be made with a button closure down the front, or a plain front. The skirt and bib options can be combined, resulting in quite a few possibilities. Both pattern pieces and instructions have been rewritten and redrawn completely, resulting in a full pattern that can be sewn completely independent from the dungarees. The instructions are very thorough and detailed.For this skirt I sewed the high bib with a button closure all the way down the front. This skirt has snaps, but you can use buttons and buttonholes as well. I lined the back pockets, to get a nicer finishing on the inside. The biggest advantage of this is that it's way easier to become a nicely rounded curve on the pockets. Don't forget to clip curves and corners and trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 cm, turn, press like a pro and you'll have a perfect pocket!The crossing shoulder straps on the back keep the straps on the shoulders nicely. The sizing of the pattern is perfect if you follow the sizing table. There is enough ease at the hips, and the straight skirt is short enough for the child to have freedom of movement.Many fabric choices are possible for this pattern: wovens with or without stretch, or even jersey if you interface a few extra pieces. What really made me happy was the little fabric this pattern needs. I managed a size 5 from a fabric length similar to the length of the shoulder strap.For more inspiration I highly recommend a visit to Petit a Petit. There is a huge blogtour going on there, with many bloggers showing their interpretation of all Petit a Petit patterns. To celebrate, you get a 20% discount on all patterns during November using the code BLOCKTOUR.During the next 3 days the pattern is on sale with an extra discount, and if you already bought the dungarees you get a 50% discount on the skirt. Or pick the bundle in the shop.pattern: Loverall skirt by Petit a Petit patternsfabric: canvas with lightweight cotton lining

EnglishI enjoy many sewing patterns very much, but falling in love head over heels doesn't happen to me often. However, my heart jumped when I saw the first test example of the Loveralls by Petit a Petit. It was no less than torture to wait for almost a year before it went into testing.One thing I have to confess is, I'm a severe case of an overall addict. To me it's the absolute cutest piece of clothing on earth for kids. But there was one little problem. My boys felt too grown up for it, and this 'working outfit' failed my daughters princess standards big time. I decided to persevere and sew a princess worthy pair of pants using her favourite colour (purple), print (flowers) and some sparkle.Sewing this pattern was very delightful, but not fast and simple. For the front there are three bib options to choose from: a high bib with side closure like I made, a high bib with buttons down the middle and a low bib, which creates a really cool look. Then there are many pocket options to play with, even the heart on the front is a pocket, how fun!All these options result in many pattern pieces. But don't worry, the instructions are truly impressive and won't get you lost. Step by step and with crystal clear illustrations and great attention to detail.The fit is beautiful. Small around the legs, but with room to move at hip and waistline. The pattern is meant for fabrics with some stretch, although without stretch can work too, just size up a little. The shoulder straps stay up well thanks to a clever crossing at the back. You cannot see that here yet, as it was an improvement that was implemented after testing.The pattern is for sale with a 25% discount until November 3rd here and the rest of the month with a 20% discount along with all the other Petit a Petit patterns here. Just use the code BLOCKPARTY.So, what are you still waiting for?Pattern: Loveralls by Petit a PetitFabric: thin corduroy without stretchDisclaimer:I received the pattern for free in return for testing it. There was no obligation however to write about it, and falling in love with the pattern happened before and not as a result of receiving it.

Just at the time I was having trouble finding a new coat for my youngest, Compagnie M started looking for testers to sew... a coat! It took less than a heartbeat to ignore the fact that I'd never sewn a coat before and just go for it.

Test patterns often need a few tweaks to get the fit right, so I usually play safe and don't cut in any expensive fabrics. The blue velvet that I used here suggests differently, but the secret is that it's a curtain from the thriftstore! The big advantage of this fabric choice is that I don't get a heart attack when my daughter decides to make sand angels in the sandpit.

In spite of my lack of coat-sewing-experience, the sewing went smooth. Not fast, mind you, because a coat is a bit of a project. The detailed instructions guided me through it all safely. I blame the fabric for the small imperfections that I cannot help to keep noticing. Velvet is just a bit of a nightmare to work with.

The fit is fine, with enough length and room for extra layers. I used a simple version of the pattern, but there are some fun lines to play with for everyone who loves piping.

My little rascal loves her soft coat, and since I didn't make this one too warm, I see just the perfect excuse to sew her a really warm winterversion soon!

The pattern is for sale at a 10% discount until November 6th with the code LOUISACOAT10

Autumn. The first leaves start falling and slowly the world around us is changing from green to yellow and orange. When the first flu viruses visited the rascals again, we suddenly needed more warm and cosy clothes. A piece of foxy jersey found a piece of supersoft cotton velours in the fabric stash and together they talked about cardigan plans. When I saw them together, I couldn't refuse...

I made the cardigan in a size 134small, and lengthened just a little by using longer cuffs. The cuffs were leftovers from a woolen sweater I upcycled a while ago. It was a bit of a puzzle to put them in, as the pattern uses double folded cuffes which turned out to be a vital part of the sewing process. Oops. I did not make the cardigan completely reversible, and put in normal buttons instead. Because honestly, who would wear that supersoft velours fabric on the outside?

The small size in this pattern turns out really small, so for the first time I noted that the regular size will be fine for my skinny boys next time. My son was very happy however, and rolled up on the couch in his new cardigan.

My kids have a lot in common with weeds. They keep popping up where I don't want them, make a mess and grow faster than seems possible. I don't know whether it is the combination of water, sand and sun, or that they secretly found growing powder somewhere, but they seem to grow meters in summer.

In spite of our Indian summer, the mornings are getting a bit chilly, and the need arose for some long sleeved and long legged clothes. And of course all the longsleeves they own suddenly did not reach any further than their elbows...

Good news for the sewing machine! I pulled out an ancient ottobre pattern that I adapted a bit to the measurements of my boys. Sometimes simple is good enough. The fabric (it's the real american eagle, mom!) makes it special enough and is a big hit with my boy. To accentuate the yellow bills and claws I used yellow ribbing.The pants are the Cisse pattern, disguised as jeans. I've sewn this pattern several times and I'm so in love with their fit around a small bottom. I had to use a small size and lengthen a bit, and it fits perfectly now.