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Why go: In an era of Technicolor Thai restaurants with kitschy names and candy-colored cocktails, this bare-walled, one-room storefront seems almost, well, square. The focus is cooking, which pumps new life into familiar dishes.

What to get:Kanom jeeb, a thick, pleated dumpling filled with shrimp; pig’s-knuckle stew, a braised hunk of knee meat in a broth laced with cinnamon, ginger, and star anise; crunchy honey-roasted duck; a chili-fired stir-fry of catfish, eggplant, and rhizome.

Best for: Diners who prefer to be dazzled by flavor rather than atmosphere.

Insider tip: Though the menu doesn’t say so, the kitchen doesn’t mind swapping proteins (tofu for pork, pork for chicken) for many of the main courses.