Eerie Orange/Red Glow Inside Floodlights (bulbs)

I have just installed the SH-5412 Heath Zenith Motion Sensor Light Control to replace an existing motion sensor flood light. While the sensors seem to work and turn the bulbs on full blast (you can see them get brighter) when they are not in use, there is an orange/red glow in the center of each bulb.

Should I be concerned about this? Is this what is considered the Bulb Saver technology? Will this generate a higher electric bill?

It's exactly as the previous poster (tmorlock) pointed out. I just had the Heath Zenith Model SH-5525 installed and it works fine, but there is this orange glow in the halogen lamp which seems to be often present. I called the electrician, and he was mystified. It may well be by design, since other people have encountered the same difficulty. At least I hope it is by design

It's exactly as the previous poster (tmorlock) pointed out. I just had the Heath Zenith Model SH-5525 installed and it works fine, but there is this orange glow in the halogen lamp which seems to be often present. I called the electrician, and he was mystified. It may well be by design, since other people have encountered the same difficulty. At least I hope it is by design

I think this is by design. Look at the instruction manual and it should tell you. This doesn't make sense that they should be on, but they may have a reason for it in their design. Now to the bulb saver technology thought, you are mostly right here. There is a lot of "strain" if you will on the filament when starting it up and it does cause a weakening over time. You will notice that when a bulb goes out, it usually happens right when you turn it on. The same thought here. I suppose in this device, that a constant voltage (low) is better and more efficient than zero voltage to 120 volts. They probably take into account the sensor will be used several times a day thus making the need for this kind of set up even more demanding.

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Yes. Must keep switch turned ON.Outdoor lights will only come on when motion is detected, otherwise light bulb does not come on. So the indoor wall switch does not work as override since the motion sensor takes over as the sole switch.Copy following link for wiring illustrations:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html#motionOther solutions include adding separate motion sensor light nearby and keep porch light so you can turn on-off when desired.Another option is to add photocell to outdoor light so it turns on automatically at dusk.Another option is to use outdoor yard timer with dawn-dusk capability:http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#outdoorAnother option is to replace indoor wall switch with with dawn-dusk timer, that can also be used as ordinary on-off switch so you can turn porch light on-off when desired. Timer such as Intermatic ST01C offers simple 2-wire connection.:http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.htmlGeneh

Probably there is no hope, but the sensor has to be removed to replaced, so take it off and hang it upside down and let dry in sun.There is no repair protocol for fixing motion detectors, because there are no replaceable parts, or circuit boards.Cover outdoor electronics with plastic bag when washing house. That includes light and pool timers, breaker boxes, low voltage timers, infrared cameras, motion detectors, alarm boxes, etc.Should the power wash contractor know this? Maybe yes.We never covered things when washing houses, and we washed 100s per year, but I told the guys not to put pressured water directly on any outdoor electrical system.Can you prove that the sensor stopped because of washing. No.The unit could have simply stopped working.earlier that morning, without provocation.

The line voltage may be low. it is possible the bulbs are too great of a wattage for the motion circuit or branch wiring. It is also possible the relay got wet and formed a layer of crud between the contacts that has some resistance.

If they are not shutting off completely, the relay may have some corrosion built up on a contact providing a circuit path.

If another pair of bulbs behave the same way, it is time to replace the unit.

On most motion sensor lights if you turn the switch on, then off and on quickly, they will stay on till you turn them back off. Leave it off for at least 10 seconds and turn it back on to go back to the motion sensor.

Sounds like the electronics of the motion detector is toast, probably from a voltage surge associated with your power failure. Since you have already used the manual switch, you have already tried the "reboot" option, but here is something else to try (it's a long shot). Turn the manual switch off, remove the light bulbs, turn the switch on for a few seconds, turn it back off, replace the bulbs and try again. Also, in the remote chance that this device uses an electo-mechanical relay (as opposed to all solid-state), the relay may be stuck, you might give it a couple of sharp raps while you have the bulbs out. When you turn it back on (before you put the bulbs back in) you might be able to hear the click of the relay if you go out there and give it some motion to detect. If all this doesn't work, you'll need to replace the unit. They may sell a replacement electronics unit for it. --- good luck.

The battery operated switch sends a wireless signal to the "box with wires," which takes the place of an ordinary light switch.
Turn off power, remove existing wall switch, and wire as follows:
Using wire nuts, connect "O--O", "A--A", "B--B". Both 'wireless' and 'receiver' now act as 3-way switches.

Insure you are using a standard flood light on motion sensor lights and not a florescent energy efficient flood light as they take longer to reach full brightness as the bulb filiment warms up. They are better suited for constant lighting rather than intermittent purposes such as sensor lights.

I am in the middle of a discussion with Heath/Zenith over a closely related and perhaps identical issue. I purchased their 5718 model from Home Depot and based on the fact that their brochure stated that "CFL bulbs are only usable on 270 degree units." I purchased the model 5718 unit (270 degree) and used CFL bulbs. It experienced the same problem others noted.

The technician at Heath/Zenith told me that only DIMMABLE CFL bulbs would work with this unit (even if the DualBrite feature is turned off). Standard CFL bulbs will not work.

Their brochure does not make that clear. Perhaps that is the answer to others' problems.