Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6?

Quotebillyb2
I set current limits to max. the stepper motors supplied by folgertech are 12 V so they cannot be overpowered by the 12V supply

I don't believe that is true. Stepper motors are rated in current, not volts. (I understand that 12V is printed on the motor, but that doesn't mean you can just apply 12V DC to the windings.) The motor drivers adjust the PWM voltage to achieve the desired current through the motors. My X, Z, and E motors were NEMA 17 with a 2.6 kg/cm holding torque. A typical current rating for a similar motor would be 1.2A. (I wish they gave us the spec sheets on these motors!) The FolgerTech kits come with A4988 drivers, which can output up to 2A, and likely exceed the current rating of the stepper motors. To me this means that if you set the current limits to the max, you are almost certainly driving your motors with too much current.

I am interested in your experience with this. How hot is your motor getting? How about your motor driver heat sink? Can you measure these temperatures? I'm guessing your motors are getting really hot, and the result will eventually be a failed motor, failed driver, or warped motor mount (the plastic 3D printed part).

QuoteThe Sto
After searching through this entire thread, I wasn't able to find an answer to my problem...

I have my printer built and firmware flashed (thanks therippa!), but when I try to calibrate in Repetier Host, I can only get the Z axis to move... I have checked all my connections and settings, but I can't for the life of me seem to get X or Y to move.

Any suggestions?

I found that clicking "home all" first, then you can move you axis.

I have tried that, it still won't move either axis... I can move them both by hand, but I can't in rep host... I even tried re-flashing the firmware with the hope that I did something wrong, but still no luck...

Have you checked your driver voltages for each stepper?

I have not, and now the ultimate noob question... How do I check the voltage? I'm a lot better on the building side than I am on the software / electronics side...

I take it you've already triple checked the wiring and where they are connected at the RAMPS board? I say that since checking the voltage is a little dangerous (for the electronics). There have been multiple instances just on this forum where people have gone to measure/adjust the voltage only to short them out which destroys other stuff too. Better to check the easy stuff first. You'll also want to make sure the limit switches aren't tripped (or think they're tripped).

I have triple checked all my wiring, yes. This is really throwing me for a loop... I even unplugged everything from the board and started fresh plugging it all back in from scratch.

Try swapping Z for another axis at the RAMPS board. That should rule out the steppers, motors, etc. Just be ready on the power switch as the limit switch isn't going to stop anything!

So you're saying to plug X or Y into the slot for Z on the RAMPS board? I just want to make sure that I am understanding correctly... I've already learned a lot about troubleshooting this from reading all the information here, but as was said, I don't want to short anything out and be in a worse spot than I am now...

Also, how do I go about checking the voltage for the steppers? It was mentioned earlier, but then never explained... Thanks!

Yes that's what was suggesting. Swap the connection for the two axes and see if X moves (since Z does now). The steppers have a metal screw on them that is LIVE (positive voltage) . You check the voltage across that screw and ground, preferably far away from the stepper so it reduces the chance of shorting it out.

Thanks! I'll have to try it when I get home from work tonight! I hate only having a couple hours a day to get this dialed in, and I've been trying to figure this out for 3 days now... Finally joined the forum to ask the questions... Thanks for all your help! I'll report back tonight with my findings!

Its fairly difficult to check the voltage on the motors as that only appears when they are moving and it is not a constant voltage. The best way is to use an oscilloscope across each winding. The adjustment pots on the driver boards are used to limit the current to the motors. The voltage measured on the wiper determines the maximum current available to the motors. For the folgertech, x,y,z can be set at maximum as the stepper motors are 12V and will not draw excessive current. Usually even if there is a low current limit set, the motors will move. I think the usual problem with steppers not moving relates to the limit switches and firmware settings for direction and limit.

Quotetherippa
So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6?

One thing I'd like to see on a direct drive extruder is making the filament hole large enough to put a bit of PTFE through it, so you can run PTFE from just below the extruder gear into the hot end, the way the E3D people suggest.

Quotetherippa
So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6?

One thing I'd like to see on a direct drive extruder is making the filament hole large enough to put a bit of PTFE through it, so you can run PTFE from just below the extruder gear into the hot end, the way the E3D people suggest.

If I showed you the model from the other side you'd see that's what I did

Hey everyone! I am looking at purchasing a 3d printer and the Folgertech ones popped out as some very affordable options. I started researching and have found good and bad things said about them. I see that these forumns are used quite a lot which is definitely a good sign. I really want to learn about how they work firsthand and so am looking at kits and the like. I am very new to 3D printing and have no electrical wiring or programing experience. I am capable enough to build things that don't require much of either of these things or advanced tools and I am pretty decent with a computer. Would you all recommend one of their printers for someone like myself? If so which one? If not where would you suggest I look? I am in the U.S. by the way.

QuoteTaylor
Hey everyone! I am looking at purchasing a 3d printer and the Folgertech ones popped out as some very affordable options. I started researching and have found good and bad things said about them. I see that these forumns are used quite a lot which is definitely a good sign. I really want to learn about how they work firsthand and so am looking at kits and the like. I am very new to 3D printing and have no electrical wiring or programing experience. I am capable enough to build things that don't require much of either of these things or advanced tools and I am pretty decent with a computer. Would you all recommend one of their printers for someone like myself? If so which one? If not where would you suggest I look? I am in the U.S. by the way.

I'm trying to make this not sound too discouraging, but I don't know if building a 3d printer should be the first step in learning how electronics and programming works. You might want to get something like a Wanhao Duplicator [wanhaousa.com] and get experience tinkering around with that.

QuoteTaylor
Hey everyone! I am looking at purchasing a 3d printer and the Folgertech ones popped out as some very affordable options. I started researching and have found good and bad things said about them. I see that these forumns are used quite a lot which is definitely a good sign. I really want to learn about how they work firsthand and so am looking at kits and the like. I am very new to 3D printing and have no electrical wiring or programing experience. I am capable enough to build things that don't require much of either of these things or advanced tools and I am pretty decent with a computer. Would you all recommend one of their printers for someone like myself? If so which one? If not where would you suggest I look? I am in the U.S. by the way.

I'm trying to make this not sound too discouraging, but I don't know if building a 3d printer should be the first step in learning how electronics and programming works. You might want to get something like a Wanhao Duplicator [wanhaousa.com] and get experience tinkering around with that.

Being new to 3D printing also BUT well versed in computers, programming, and electronics, I would encourage you to keep following this forum and some others as well as watch a lot of youtube videos. IMHO I don't think it would be a good move for you, but IF you go, the Folger Tech 2020 is a good starter machine but DOES require some engineering knowledge as well as wiring and programming. You're not ready. Sorry.

Quotebillyb2
I set current limits to max. the stepper motors supplied by folgertech are 12 V so they cannot be overpowered by the 12V supply

I don't believe that is true. Stepper motors are rated in current, not volts. (I understand that 12V is printed on the motor, but that doesn't mean you can just apply 12V DC to the windings.) The motor drivers adjust the PWM voltage to achieve the desired current through the motors. My X, Z, and E motors were NEMA 17 with a 2.6 kg/cm holding torque. A typical current rating for a similar motor would be 1.2A. (I wish they gave us the spec sheets on these motors!) The FolgerTech kits come with A4988 drivers, which can output up to 2A, and likely exceed the current rating of the stepper motors. To me this means that if you set the current limits to the max, you are almost certainly driving your motors with too much current.

I am interested in your experience with this. How hot is your motor getting? How about your motor driver heat sink? Can you measure these temperatures? I'm guessing your motors are getting really hot, and the result will eventually be a failed motor, failed driver, or warped motor mount (the plastic 3D printed part).

Hey billyb2, I owe you an apology, you are correct! I went back and checked the impedance of the 2.6 kg/cm stepper motors shipped with the Folger kit, and discovered the windings are 28 Ohms. This means a full 12V will produce only 12/28 = 0.4 amps. So you are right, the motor will limit the current, and one should be safe in setting the motor driver pots to their full scale. Sorry to cast doubt on your assertion!

My mk9 extruder has decided it only wants to slip on filament. It will print. But from time to time on faster areas it will slip.

Also the extruder motor sounds like it's start stopping while ectruding. Whole this is currently driving me. A little mad. If I out more pressure on the filament the motor can't handle it even with more amps.

My mk9 extruder has decided it only wants to slip on filament. It will print. But from time to time on faster areas it will slip.

Also the extruder motor sounds like it's start stopping while ectruding. Whole this is currently driving me. A little mad. If I out more pressure on the filament the motor can't handle it even with more amps.

I've cleared it off. And manual extrusion seems file.

Scroll back a few pages, and you'll see that I recently had the same problem. It turned out that the set screw on the extruder motor drive gear was a little loose. Something to check...

My mk9 extruder has decided it only wants to slip on filament. It will print. But from time to time on faster areas it will slip.

Also the extruder motor sounds like it's start stopping while ectruding. Whole this is currently driving me. A little mad. If I out more pressure on the filament the motor can't handle it even with more amps.

I've cleared it off. And manual extrusion seems file.

Scroll back a few pages, and you'll see that I recently had the same problem. It turned out that the set screw on the extruder motor drive gear was a little loose. Something to check...

I actually checked that. And the gear still spins just doesn't catch on the filament.

My mk9 extruder has decided it only wants to slip on filament. It will print. But from time to time on faster areas it will slip.

Also the extruder motor sounds like it's start stopping while ectruding. Whole this is currently driving me. A little mad. If I out more pressure on the filament the motor can't handle it even with more amps.

I've cleared it off. And manual extrusion seems file.

Scroll back a few pages, and you'll see that I recently had the same problem. It turned out that the set screw on the extruder motor drive gear was a little loose. Something to check...

I actually checked that. And the gear still spins just doesn't catch on the filament.

When I have had that issue it's been temp too low or bed too close to the nozzle.

Quotetherippa
Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure...

Nope tho its still warm in Louisiana. that and my large reef tank in the room keeps it hot.

Maybe PID Tuning again when the weather changes?

That was a good idea my stuff wasn't sticking as good so I ran auto tune on the bed again and it's sticking much better.

Awesome! Maybe run it on the extruder also? :: shrug :: I'm still a noob.

I ordered a new hot end. Going to do Bowden but i want to do something different. I want to mount the extruder right above the hot end on the top rail. Reduce the distance and keep the weight low on the X axis. It will feed it straight down.
hmmm Why hasent anyone else done this?

Also... after hours and hours of work here is my S3D starting script.
I unchecked "Wait for temp to stablize before beginning build" This allows me to auto level with 16 points while the bed is heating up.

Also things to note: I disabled the checkbox "Relative extrusion distances" and "Update firmware configuration"

Still confused why I have to G92 after G29. At the end of G29 it says X is -36 which is the distance of the probe.

So, tonight I installed my new extruder (happy with it, but it needs improvements. this was a remix, expect a RippaStruder in the future), and ran into the same problem you had with Marlin losing track of coordinates after autoleveling. Turns out it's a bug (it happens if your probe offset is greater than [some formula]). The new release candidate of Marlin fixes it (1.9RC2), and I got it to work and created a new branch with my personal settings here - [github.com] . If you are brave and know how to run a diff on the config files, I suggest you give it a try. One big change they made is the PROBE_POSITION settings for autoleveling already have the offsets accounted for, so you will treat the center of your probe as the extruder when setting them (this took me a while to figure out, and I filed a ticket against it).

After going through this upgrade migration process, I realized a lot of setting behaviors were changed (off the top of my head: lcd support, very different configuration.h structure which makes it hard to run a diff, default booleans from the 1.8 config file flipped, and autolevel behavior) , and a lot new ones were added. I still plan on releasing an update to my Folgertech Marlin firmware once the final version is out, but since my printer is now very far from stock configuration, I might need someone here who hasn't tinkered around with the physical aspects of the printer too much and understands how the configuration file works to help.

Also, here's the video of it doing a stressing print with the new bushings...so quiet:

Finished building my 2020 i3 ( My First 3D Printer)
Having an issue with my Z axis, goes down fine but when I try to bring it up all I get is a high pitched noise. I calibrated the stepping motor to .433 ( was .657) the motor still doesn't move the good side is the noise is gone..
I removed the threaded rods to see if it was a weight issue nope still the motors will turn in only one direction..

Finished building my 2020 i3 ( My First 3D Printer)
Having an issue with my Z axis, goes down fine but when I try to bring it up all I get is a high pitched noise. I calibrated the stepping motor to .433 ( originality set at .657) the motor still doesn't move the good side is the noise is gone..
I removed the threaded rods to see if it was a weight issue nope still the motors will turn in only one direction..

So, tonight I installed my new extruder (happy with it, but it needs improvements. this was a remix, expect a RippaStruder in the future), and ran into the same problem you had with Marlin losing track of coordinates after autoleveling. Turns out it's a bug (it happens if your probe offset is greater than [some formula]). The new release candidate of Marlin fixes it (1.9RC2), and I got it to work and created a new branch with my personal settings here - [github.com] . If you are brave and know how to run a diff on the config files, I suggest you give it a try. One big change they made is the PROBE_POSITION settings for autoleveling already have the offsets accounted for, so you will treat the center of your probe as the extruder when setting them (this took me a while to figure out, and I filed a ticket against it).

After going through this upgrade migration process, I realized a lot of setting behaviors were changed (off the top of my head: lcd support, very different configuration.h structure which makes it hard to run a diff, default booleans from the 1.8 config file flipped, and autolevel behavior) , and a lot new ones were added. I still plan on releasing an update to my Folgertech Marlin firmware once the final version is out, but since my printer is now very far from stock configuration, I might need someone here who hasn't tinkered around with the physical aspects of the printer too much and understands how the configuration file works to help.

Also, here's the video of it doing a stressing print with the new bushings...so quiet:

Quotetherippa
So, tonight I installed my new extruder (happy with it, but it needs improvements. this was a remix, expect a RippaStruder in the future), and ran into the same problem you had with Marlin losing track of coordinates after autoleveling. Turns out it's a bug (it happens if your probe offset is greater than [some formula]). The new release candidate of Marlin fixes it (1.9RC2), and I got it to work and created a new branch with my personal settings here - [github.com] . If you are brave and know how to run a diff on the config files, I suggest you give it a try. One big change they made is the PROBE_POSITION settings for autoleveling already have the offsets accounted for, so you will treat the center of your probe as the extruder when setting them (this took me a while to figure out, and I filed a ticket against it).

After going through this upgrade migration process, I realized a lot of setting behaviors were changed (off the top of my head: lcd support, very different configuration.h structure which makes it hard to run a diff, default booleans from the 1.8 config file flipped, and autolevel behavior) , and a lot new ones were added. I still plan on releasing an update to my Folgertech Marlin firmware once the final version is out, but since my printer is now very far from stock configuration, I might need someone here who hasn't tinkered around with the physical aspects of the printer too much and understands how the configuration file works to help.

Also, here's the video of it doing a stressing print with the new bushings...so quiet:

I also upgraded to 1.1.0-RC2. My setup is a little closer to stock configuration than yours. I've uploaded the modifications I made to Configuration.h and pins_RAMPS_13.h, if anyone cares to take a look (see attached). Note that on my printer, I have the X end stop on the left, and I have the full-graphic 12864 LCD. The modifications to the pins file corrects the rotation direction of the LCD encoder, and disables the beeper. Everything seems to be working well, including printing directly from the SD card.

Quotecazylazy
Finished building my 2020 i3 ( My First 3D Printer)
Having an issue with my Z axis, goes down fine but when I try to bring it up all I get is a high pitched noise. I calibrated the stepping motor to .433 ( originality set at .657) the motor still doesn't move the good side is the noise is gone..
I removed the threaded rods to see if it was a weight issue nope still the motors will turn in only one direction..

any help or points will be greatly appreciated

Thank you

It's end stop settings / configuration. I can't tell you exactly what to change because I fixed mine a while ago and don't remember exactly which thing fixed it. There are answers in this thread if you read through everything . You can search this thread using the custom google search animoose made. [cse.google.com]

Quotetherippa
Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure...

Nope tho its still warm in Louisiana. that and my large reef tank in the room keeps it hot.

Maybe PID Tuning again when the weather changes?

That was a good idea my stuff wasn't sticking as good so I ran auto tune on the bed again and it's sticking much better.

Awesome! Maybe run it on the extruder also? :: shrug :: I'm still a noob.

I ordered a new hot end. Going to do Bowden but i want to do something different. I want to mount the extruder right above the hot end on the top rail. Reduce the distance and keep the weight low on the X axis. It will feed it straight down.
hmmm Why hasent anyone else done this?

Also... after hours and hours of work here is my S3D starting script.
I unchecked "Wait for temp to stablize before beginning build" This allows me to auto level with 16 points while the bed is heating up.

Also things to note: I disabled the checkbox "Relative extrusion distances" and "Update firmware configuration"

Still confused why I have to G92 after G29. At the end of G29 it says X is -36 which is the distance of the probe.

So, tonight I installed my new extruder (happy with it, but it needs improvements. this was a remix, expect a RippaStruder in the future), and ran into the same problem you had with Marlin losing track of coordinates after autoleveling. Turns out it's a bug (it happens if your probe offset is greater than [some formula]). The new release candidate of Marlin fixes it (1.9RC2), and I got it to work and created a new branch with my personal settings here - [github.com] . If you are brave and know how to run a diff on the config files, I suggest you give it a try. One big change they made is the PROBE_POSITION settings for autoleveling already have the offsets accounted for, so you will treat the center of your probe as the extruder when setting them (this took me a while to figure out, and I filed a ticket against it).

After going through this upgrade migration process, I realized a lot of setting behaviors were changed (off the top of my head: lcd support, very different configuration.h structure which makes it hard to run a diff, default booleans from the 1.8 config file flipped, and autolevel behavior) , and a lot new ones were added. I still plan on releasing an update to my Folgertech Marlin firmware once the final version is out, but since my printer is now very far from stock configuration, I might need someone here who hasn't tinkered around with the physical aspects of the printer too much and understands how the configuration file works to help.

Also, here's the video of it doing a stressing print with the new bushings...so quiet:

Hey guys For the black screws which we are supposed to tighten in order to not let the chrome rods move (the rods which support the heated bed), how did you guys tighten them? I can't find an alan key which fits.

Quotewatlooazn
Hey guys For the black screws which we are supposed to tighten in order to not let the chrome rods move (the rods which support the heated bed), how did you guys tighten them? I can't find an alan key which fits.

3mm fits mine. I couldn't tighten them enough to get a good grip on the chrome rods, so what I did was put a little kapton tape round the end of the rod to act as a shim. It's then a bit hard to get the rod into the SK8 while keeping the tape on it, but it can be done.

Hi, I'm just wondering what other people's maximum build height is as I can only reach about 135mm (5.13 inches) before the chrome rods aren't long enough to go any higher. The chrome rods are 320mm long as they should be.

Quotepeeejayz
Spent every minute I had free trying to get this printer printing happily.

Finally after 3/4 of a kg of PLA I think I'm there:

[attachment 65977 12268577_10153266379991188_1189186789_o.jpg]

Nice! Your next step is a full 3D printed copter. Here's mine. Frame is 100% PLA (except the bolts and standoffs of course!). Here's a shot of it flying yesterday. The frame is off Thingiverse, called the "Crossfire 2".

Guys my bearings have a tendency to fall off/slide down sometimes from the chrome rods and 3d printed supports (these are the chrome rods which are supposed to be right beside the threaded rods). Any tips?

Another thing is that sometimes the nut of the threaded rods doesn't stay in place in the 3d printed fixtures. Again, any tips?

Im pretty much a noob builder and am having alot of issues (but this stuff is fun so im keeping on going ! ). Anyone have any motivational tips, or reassurance that their build didn't go as smoothly as they thought it would? Could really use some words of wisdom right now.

I'm looking to do the autolevel thing on my printer (I'm going for the moving little arm holding the switch one because I have glass)... It's there a guide for how to do it right like what to change on the firmware and what wire goes where, how long is the arm holding the switch?