Waves

Waves

What are the different Types of Waves?

There are many types of waves but the main one that you see are created by wind and are called surface waves; the wind will blow the surface area of the water the wave starts to build bumps in the sea until it curls on its self. Another type of wave is a Storm Surge that is created when there is high winds and low air pressure. These waves are a minor disturbance when out in the Deep Ocean they tend to be only 1 meter; when they get closer to the shore that is when they are a problem. They can raise the sea level and damage human settlements and they can also cause large waves. The final wave is the Tsunami the big boy of them all; Earthquakes, Volcanic Eruptions, Underwater Explosions, Landslide, Meteor Landing and Glacier Carving can cause these fatal waves. Unlike wind or tides, which are created by the pull of the moon and sun, the tsunamis are created by a displacement of water. Instead of a tsunami looking lake a breaking wave it just looks like a rapidly rising tide and that is where it gets its name tidal wave. Tsunamis come in an internal wave train as it is called with waves higher than 10 meters. One Tsunami can hit one minute then another can one hour later they are very unpredictable.

How do waves Form?

Waves are actually a moving energy in the water, causing the surface to move in a circular motion. You may think that the water in the waves travels a lot but it actually doesn’t travel a lot at all. The only thing waves need to travel across the sea is energy. When two waves meet (a superposition) the energy of the waves connect and that creates a more powerful wave. If two waves meet each other out of step that means that they would cancel out. When the wind blows against the surface of the water it will create friction and create a swell that is the way that a wind wave is created. When a wave breaks on the beach this is called a swash and when the water goes back to the sea this is called a backwash. With a constructive wave (an everyday wave) the swash is bigger than the backwash; with a destructive wave (stormy waves) the swash is smaller than the backwash. This is because of the down force of the wave.

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