Pitching a shutout against cold weather to come

SUPER HANDYMAN

Before the cooler weather comes, you should check your home and make sure it is weatherstripped and caulked, or you might be paying higher heating bills.

Windows and doors are the most obvious places to check. Make sure you have adequate weatherstripping around the windows to prevent air infiltration.

Another place that you should check is where pipes and vents come into your home. Expanding foams can be easy to apply around pipes and other odd-shaped spaces.

Vents for dryers, bathrooms, fireplaces, water heaters and ovens also should be checked. If dampers can be used, make sure they are working correctly.

Ducts that carry heat or air conditioning through the attic and crawlspace should be checked to make sure they are connected firmly. While you are in the attic (and crawlspace, if your home has it), check to make sure the insulation is still in place.

Check with your local county agent or utility company to see if you have the recommended R-value insulation installed. Adding more insulation to meet the recommendations can pay for itself in most cases.

Places where different building materials meet are other spots that should be caulked. Fill these joints with a suitable caulking, and you won't have to worry about air or bugs getting in.

Switches and electrical outlets mounted on the inside of an exterior wall can be sealed better by installing special foam pieces made for this purpose.

Many will seal off their attic and crawlspace vents for the winter. This is a big mistake. Do, however, make sure that the joints between the house and attic or crawlspace are weatherstripped.

Most of these supplies are inexpensive, easy to install and readily available at hardware stores, discount stores and home centers.

Priming for a paint job

Question: We want to paint a brick wall in our kitchen, but it has white crud growing on the mortar joints. Can we paint over this? If not, how do we remove it?

Answer: The white stuff is probably efflorescence. This means salts are leaching through, probably because of moisture behind the wall. It might have been a problem that no longer exists, but if it does, your paint job could be in trouble if you don't deal with the moisture problem first.

Getting rid of the efflorescence is easy. Often a strong detergent and a scrub brush will work. If not, use 1/2 cup trisodium phosphate mixed in 2 quarts of water.

How to make tiles stick

Q: I have loose ceramic tiles around the edge of my kitchen counter. Is there any way to reapply them?

A: All you need is tile adhesive, available in hardware stores and home centers. Remove old adhesive or mortar from the back of the tile. Also remove all the grout around the edges of the removed tile. Spread the adhesive in the area where you removed the tile and press the tile back in place, leaving the proper spacing for grout. After the adhesive has had time to set up, apply the new grout.

Al and Kelly's tips

A power screwdriver can be helpful, but sometimes you need extra muscle. One way to give a standard screwdriver extra power is to drill a hole through the center of the handle, provided your handle will allow for it. Then slide another screwdriver or dowel through the hole for extra leverage.

To soften old window putty and make it easier to work with before applying it to the window, rub it in your hands first. It will be more pliable and less sticky. You also can put some in a plastic bag and put the bag in warm water.

Reader's tip

I had to cut a piece of sheet metal for a tabletop that I was putting together. When I tried to cut it, I could see that the edges would be ragged. I used a couple of scraps of plywood and sandwiched the metal between the pieces of wood. Then I clamped them tightly and started cutting again. The cut edges of the metal are smooth, and there are virtually no nicks or burrs to file off.