This is the first in what will be a series of reviews of love motels, in which I take a trip to Gujora Beach, stay at a mediocre motel, and meet the owners, a mother with an incredible singing voice and her sour daughter.

Korea may be the easiest country in the world to travel in – if you know how. This is the right way to travel in Korea – the way most Koreans do, using love motels and intercity buses. You don’t need to book ahead, you can do it very cheaply, and you never have to stay in a 16 person dormitory.

‘Why didn’t I pack toothpaste? This Korean stuff makes my mouth burn.’ The things you will miss from home, if you neglect to bring them with you to Korea. A non-exhaustive packing list of the things most often overlooked by people coming to Korea to live and work, to their subsequent regret.