Group Summit Climbs

Treks, Tours, & Backpacking

Climbers on their way to the summit of Sahale Peak, with Sharkfin Tower and Boston Peak in the background. Gerry Chike

A climber enjoys great conditions on Kangaroo Temple. Myron Allen

Practicing crevasse rescue. Dylan Taylor

Mt. Baker's 10,780-foot summit. We typically make a climb of Mt. Baker in the first five days of this course. Tom Anastasio

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Men's Journal calls AAI's four-part mountain leadership program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." Part one of the series introduces glacier skills and alpine rock climbing at a moderate difficulty level. After training on the Easton Glacier, we normally summit Mount Baker, make ascents in the Washington Pass area, and conclude with a student-led ascent of a major North Cascades summit.

Location:North Cascades, WA

Season:May - September

Length:12 days

Cost:$2190

Difficulty:
Beginner
to
Moderate

Overview

Curriculum & Structure

Dates & Details

Testimonials

Related Courses

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Overview

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. AMTL Part 2 develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. AMTL Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. AMTL Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting.

After completing AMTL Part 1, you may chose to continue with the next program segments in order to rapidly develop well-rounded technical leadership skills. But you also have the choice of joining a climbing trip or expedition in the US or abroad or joining one of our shorter follow-up programs such as our 4-day Learn to Lead, 6-day Alpine Ice, 6-day Denali Prep, or others. We can advise you on your best options in light of your interests and future climbing goals.

This program has been described by National Accreditation reviewers as "the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership offered in America."

Take one or all four parts of this course: 12, 24, 36, or 48 days

Take the course in one year or over the course of two, three or four years.

Complete all four parts and receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Curriculum & Structure

AMTL Part 1 - Comprehensive Skills & Intro to Leadership

In this first 12-day program, we help you develop a very complete set of alpine climbing skills for rock, snow, and ice, from the basics on up, and as we progress through each set of skills, we will provide you with a lot of enjoyable practice climbing so you can master each technique. You will learn route finding and hazard assessment skills as well as self-rescue. Through the course you will make a series of classic alpine ascents on rock routes and on major glaciers, and you and your fellow team members will lead the final climb as you apply all the climbing and leadership skills learned during the program.

Climbing steep snow on the N. Ridge of Mt. Baker. Jason Martin

We place as much emphasis on good mountain judgment as we do on the development of technical skills, and throughout this course we'll be helping you observe and analyze climbing routes, terrain features, and hazards so that by the end of the program you will have developed the ability to lead a small team safely through a rugged and complex environment and rope teams on basic and intermediate alpine routes. The climbs we make typically include four or five of the following: Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Cutthroat Peak, South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, and Silver Star. Join this course for excellent skills development, diverse and beautiful alpine climbing experience, and preparation for leading your own alpine climbing teams.

Curriculum Highlights

Alpine Travel & Climbing Skills

Selection & use of personal equipment as well as ropes, knots, & harnesses

An AAI group approaches their Mt. Baker basecamp through a vast wonderland of alpine wilderness. Ryan Slaybaugh

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Dates & Details

May 4 - May 15, 2015

May 17 - May 28, 2015

Jun 1 - Jun 12, 2015

Jun 15 - Jun 26, 2015

Jun 29 - Jul 10, 2015

Jul 13 - Jul 24, 2015

Jul 27 - Aug 7, 2015

Aug 10 - Aug 21, 2015

Aug 24 - Sep 4, 2015

Sep 7 - Sep 18, 2015

Details

Max Ratio - 5:1 (Climber:Guide)

Capacity - 9

Prerequisites - Backpacking Skills

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Testimonials

"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips."Myron and Adele, Laramie, WY

"This course is one of the best things I've ever done. The course is amazing. It's basically like living, instead of reading Freedom of the Hills. It is a tremendous base to build a climbing career on, not to mention you'll get to climb some beautiful peaks. It changed my life. I'm telling my friends they have to do it!"Denise Lambright, St. Louis

Mt. Shuksan, one of the most photographed peaks in the Cascades and a common objective for the AMTL 1 Course. Rick Kaiser

"My guide met and exceeded every expectation I had. The combination of his knowledge, skills, teaching ability, and personality were more than I would have dared to hope for."Rob Lindner, Ashford, WA

"The guides were excellent! No time was wasted - and they took every opportunity to teach us something new. They also took the time to get to know us well and conformed the course to our abilities and desires"Deanna Yurchuck, New York, NY

"I enjoyed the curriculum because I thought it started out where I was at, but it didn't move too slowly."Chris Petersen, Dallas, TX

"I chose AAI because they were the most interactive when trying to determine which company to use. They answered all of my emails and phone calls, and worked with me to find a course that suited my needs. They also offered the most skills focused course that fostered independence in the mountains, opposed to simply offering a service to take me up and down a mountain."Rory Brown, Newbury, MA