Nightwood's bagel sandwich

I look at the breakfast sandwiches here and, though all superlative, I snicker: None can possibly feel so simultaneously old and new as chef-owners Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds' take on classic immigrant surf and turf. Their shiny bagels have a thin smear of cream cheese mixed with Rushing Waters smoked trout. That gets topped with an over-easy egg, thick bacon slices and a dollop of slaw. Do cut it in half. Don't press down (or everything escapes). Sundays only. $13, 2119 S. Halsted St., 312-526-3385— Christopher Borrelli

I look at the breakfast sandwiches here and, though all superlative, I snicker: None can possibly feel so simultaneously old and new as chef-owners Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds' take on classic immigrant surf and turf. Their shiny bagels have a thin smear of cream cheese mixed with Rushing Waters smoked trout. That gets topped with an over-easy egg, thick bacon slices and a dollop of slaw. Do cut it in half. Don't press down (or everything escapes). Sundays only. $13, 2119 S. Halsted St., 312-526-3385— Christopher Borrelli

I look at the breakfast sandwiches here and, though all superlative, I snicker: None can possibly feel so simultaneously old and new as chef-owners Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds' take on classic immigrant surf and turf. Their shiny bagels have a thin smear of cream cheese mixed with Rushing Waters smoked trout. That gets topped with an over-easy egg, thick bacon slices and a dollop of slaw. Do cut it in half. Don't press down (or everything escapes). Sundays only. $13, 2119 S. Halsted St., 312-526-3385— Christopher Borrelli