They’ve been climbing the Grampians for 40 years, often at the invitation of Parks Victoria, they say. No rock art has been damaged. Now, legal action is being threatened.

It all came to a head on the Easter long weekend, the busiest time of year in the Grampians as thousands head west for a break.

Climbing has been banned in the Grampians' "special protection areas" since 2003 – but for years Parks Victoria turned a blind eye.

No longer. Rangers are now out in force at eight key rock climbing sites across the park to enforce the new climbing bans. Anyone spotted faces a fine. Three climbers were fined on March 9.

This image was supplied to show the low impact of climbing on the Grampians.Credit:Simon Carter

Rock climbers are drawn to the Grampians by the park’s unique environment: hard but weathered sandstone walls with lots of potential handholds.

In the past decade, Parks Victoria claim, its popularity has exploded as it has become recognised as one of the world’s top-five climbing locations. “It’s a mecca for climbers,” said Simon Talbot, Parks Victoria’s chief operating officer.

In 2003, about 8000 climbers came to the park. In 2018, some 80,000 came, he said (climbers deny this). “It’s really caught us by surprise, to be honest,” Mr Talbot said.

Some of the best climbing is in the special protected areas of the park, around the Northern Victoria Range.

Climbers have been bashing hundreds of kilometres of paths through this virgin bush, Mr Talbot said. The mats boulderers use – laid at the bottom of large rocks to catch a falling person – have destroyed the undergrowth, he said. Human faeces dumped in the bush is encouraging weeds to grow, he said.

The older generation of climbers were true conservationists, Mr Talbot said. The new ones carry portable drills to make holes in the rock face, some trying to ascend as fast as possible and beat each other’s records, he said. They damage the sandstone, which is home to many endangered animals – and climbers crumble it on the bush below, killing it, he said.

“There are many areas where there are significant sites and rock art is being damaged. I’ve seen it,” said Dylan Clarke, chairman of the Barengi Gadjin Land Council which represents the traditional owners.

“Fixed bolts that are drilled into the rocks. It’s stuff that’s really hard to see.

“There are things like graffiti and racist drawings on sacred colours. That just makes a mockery of our culture and heritage. When you see that stuff in our sacred areas, it really impacts you – that’s heartbreaking.”

That is simply not true, said Mike Tomkins, who represents the newly-formed Australian Climbing Association Victoria.

“The climbers are not damaging the environment. I very firmly believe there has been no damage to any Aboriginal artwork anywhere in the region.”

Some rock art is almost impossible to see, he said. Climbers had been using one route for 30 years, but only a week ago were told they were climbing near rock art, he said.

Climbers were told a week ago a key climb used for 30 years, The Gallery, was an Aboriginal quarry by Parks Victoria.

Protecting rock art poses a real challenge for Parks Victoria, because many sacred sites are sensitive and legally cannot be revealed.

Mr Tomkins said climbers were “mortified” they had offended traditional owners, and wanted the chance to “walk the country” with them to identify art sites to avoid.

But the biggest stoush is over a single picture, released by Parks Victoria when they announced the bans. It shows what looks like a climbing bolt in rock art.

But Parks got it wrong. The bolt was part of an old safety cage installed to protect the rock art. Parks apologised and pulled the image, but it soured the relationship.

A petition to stop the bans has already reached almost 23,000 signatures since being opened a month ago.

The Victorian Climbing Club is meant to work with Parks Victoria on climbing access – and has, for many years. But they feel shocked and frozen out by the sudden bans, and say they have begun the legal process.

“It's a surprise they want to go to the press to make climbers look bad again, when we are trying to work with them. It’s frustrating,” said Mark Gould, the club's spokesman.