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Now, the clutch safety interlock switch. The picture above shows the safety switch contacts. Once you removed the 2 screws holding it to the stock lever, you will need to cut the copper plate on the switch. There are 3 wires: Green, Black with yellow and Blue. You do not use the green wire. You will need to attach the supplied terminals to the remaining wires and slip the supplied rubber boot over them as you attach them to the hydraulic clutch lever. In the photos, the boot is installed and also removed, and with my finger, I am pointing to its location. I did not bother to install the clutch interlock switch and removed the wiring harness completely, but unplugging it from the connector behind the instrument panel. Next, you must remove the clutch cable from the lever in order to pass the cable under the steering head he picture above shows the attachment at the clutch actuator Once the clutch cable is removed from the lever, remove the bolt holding it at on the engine case and disconnect the clutch cable from the pivot. The easiest way to do this is to pull out the clutch pivot assembly and the long “spike” out of the clutch plate hole. (It only goes back in one way, so you can’t mess it up.) he picture above shows that the routing is the same as the original clutch cable. With the hydraulic clutch assembly, pass the stainless steel braided line to the clutch “pivot” point at the engine casing. Attach the clutch cable to the “pivot” while it is removed from the engine, then insert the “spike” into the clutch plates hole (it can only go in one way).

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Please remove your clutch completely (the basket only if it should be exchanged as well), also the black bush on the shaft rear containing an O-ring. Remove the O-ring and push it on the shaft again after it has been cleaned and lightly greased. Afterwards, lightly grease the outside of pos. 1 and push it on the shaft as well. If a new basket is to used as well, now follows the installation of the clutch basket, the screws have to be tightened with a screw locking device and a torque of 30-34 nm. In case of a clutch kit without basket, the original basket must be continued to use, of course. Now, the balls pos. 17 are lightly moistened with grease and placed into the cavities of the adjusting plate pos. 7, then, the kernel pos. 12 is carefully put on so that the kernel can be easily turned clockwise on the balls. This complete unit is now placed on the shaft (none of the balls may be off center), to make this easier 2 springs can be mounted. Then place positions 9 and 4 and finally nut 6 which you should glue in with a screw locking device and tighten with a torque of approx. 190 Nm. Concerning the clutch kit, you have steel plates and clutch plates. The steel plates are available in gage 1.5mm and 2mm as well as curved steel plates with a gage of 1.5mm, to be recognized if you place a straight object flat on the plate.