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Topic Review (Newest First)

07-15-2013 10:32 AM

cobalt327

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetlil66

Update. I got the engine back together and in the truck. I ran into a few issue but got them all ironed out.
One issue was my brother CUT THE stock header off so i had to break in with open heads.
I did not hear any bad noises oil pressure started at 75ish cold and dropped to around -40ish @200rpm+ at 210dgrs. (I used my stethoscope on the valve covers no noises) (10/w30 comps breakin oil)

I did the break in for 25 mins.
When I let the truck idle I noticed the oil pressure fluxed around 19 -21ish psi. Im taking it this is caused by the cam/ motor loping. It stays steady at any rpm above 1000.
It seemed to idle well but you could here a tad lope.
At one point idlen i thought I heard it knowing but Im sure it was the open headers making the sound - If you give it even a tad bit of gas it goes away.
Oil psi increases super fast.
It starts right up first try.

For some reason the trans acted like it was slipping - I had to give it more gas to get it to even budge. Is this caused by the cam?

What should the idle speed be?
Im wondering how to check the cam to make sure it broke in well. Even if it didn I dont have the money to rebuild the whole thing again!
Well guys this has been a fun ride.

Thanks guys!

First, good job! I bet you're relieved!

If the trans is slipping, that has nothing to do w/the cam. Now, a high performance cam can lower the available torque just off idle if it's "radical" enough- but the 1103 cam you have will allow the tranny to behave same as it did before. Be sure the ATF level is full, shifter linkage in adjustment, modulator vacuum line connected and not leaking. Beyond that you'll need to drive it once you get it quieted down to see if anything's up w/the tranny.

The idle speed may be a little higher than it was stock, but you should be able to set it well below 1000 rpm w/the 1103 Summit cam. W/o an exhaust system, nothing will sound "right" as far as the idle speed goes. I hope you've been using earplugs! I have a constant ringing in my ears (tinnitus) from years of abusing my hearing (rock concerts, H-D w/drag pipes, shooting, etc.) and it's a real pain in the ***, so be forewarned!

07-15-2013 09:43 AM

Northern Chevy

You were asking about checking cam break in or just cam condition in general and the only two ways I have been told that can somewhat give an idea are these but do ask an engine tech on here before bothering to do ether and I'd say do nothing now unless you hear things or suspect a problem ... otherwise just enjoy your ride !.

The visual way ( aside from cam removal ) is to have the intake off and look through the valley floor holes at the face of the cam and turning the engine to inspect the top and leading face of the cam lobe. I could be wrong but I don't think its even possible to see all the cam lobes doing it that way. If some fancy bore scope can reach in to peer around, again a tech would know if it was possible.

The other method I know of is to remove the valve covers, loosen the rocker arm of a lobe you suspect and turn it to the side and then set up a dial indicator directly on top of the pushrod so that the rod isn't touching the hole in the head as the cam moves through one complete turn. What you would be measuring is the actual lobe height and one would soon see if part of a lobe had been wiped off with that test. This would have been the sort of test you could have done before you tore down the engine as an example to confirm you had a camshaft going on you ( I believe you had a few things happening with this engine and the cam being one of them ? )

So just a couple of idea's for future reference

07-15-2013 03:10 AM

123pugsy

Glad to hear it went well.

By now, you at least owe us a short clip.

No way to check the cam. Make sure you keep using additive on every oil change.

07-15-2013 12:31 AM

sweetlil66

Update. I got the engine back together and in the truck. I ran into a few issue but got them all ironed out.
One issue was my brother CUT THE stock header off so i had to break in with open heads.
I did not hear any bad noises oil pressure started at 75ish cold and dropped to around -40ish @200rpm+ at 210dgrs. (I used my stethoscope on the valve covers no noises) (10/w30 comps breakin oil)

I did the break in for 25 mins.
When I let the truck idle I noticed the oil pressure fluxed around 19 -21ish psi. Im taking it this is caused by the cam/ motor loping. It stays steady at any rpm above 1000.
It seemed to idle well but you could here a tad lope.
At one point idlen i thought I heard it knowing but Im sure it was the open headers making the sound - If you give it even a tad bit of gas it goes away.
Oil psi increases super fast.
It starts right up first try.

For some reason the trans acted like it was slipping - I had to give it more gas to get it to even budge. Is this caused by the cam?

What should the idle speed be?
Im wondering how to check the cam to make sure it broke in well. Even if it didn I dont have the money to rebuild the whole thing again!
Well guys this has been a fun ride.

I think my biggest worry is once I assemble the engine - getting it in and started. I mean the hardest part to me is claiming under this truck and bolting the trans all up. I could easily have the engine installed and running in a day but with my son there is just no way. Im thinking I can get it done in 2 (Broke in on the 2nd day) I just dont want the engine to dry up after priming it.

Is it ok for me to break this engine in with open headers? If not I gotta figure that one out!!!

Thanks guys!

I think you'll be fine. Once you get it fired up, if you see anything's wrong- water leak, fuel leak, etc. just shut it down and fix the problem. The thing that you must avoid at all costs is idling it until you have 15-20 minutes of running at 2000-2500 rpm.

Don't worry about it drying up. Priming it will fill the lifters and that's the main thing. The second or two it takes to build full oil pressure at start up we all just live with for the most part. Even if you prime it immediately before start up, the time it takes to install the distributor can let some oil drain from the galleys, so don't sweat it.

Running it w/open headers is not recommended because you cannot hear valve train or bottom end noises. If you just have to run open headers, be sure the exhaust is not hitting anything that could catch fire or burn paint, etc. Also, be damned sure you wear ear protection!

I keep a set of cheap-o header mufflers (they bolt to the header flange) for break in when a full exhaust wasn't hooked up yet. Most parts stores carry them.

06-27-2013 06:48 PM

sweetlil66

I think my biggest worry is once I assemble the engine - getting it in and started. I mean the hardest part to me is claiming under this truck and bolting the trans all up. I could easily have the engine installed and running in a day but with my son there is just no way. Im thinking I can get it done in 2 (Broke in on the 2nd day) I just dont want the engine to dry up after priming it.

Is it ok for me to break this engine in with open headers? If not I gotta figure that one out!!!

Thanks guys!

06-25-2013 10:33 PM

cobalt327

Well, CC supplies it w/their cams, so it's got to be adequate. It's more out of habit that I use what I use, and when something works I tend to stick w/it. And considering I have a lifetime supply of Isky Rev-Lube, that seals the deal for me.

06-25-2013 04:48 PM

Northern Chevy

Speaking of assembly lubes, this winter when I had installed a new cam and lifters I couldn't find the cam lobe specific moly lube in any shops around here including the engine rebuild shop which I found odd. So being that I couldn't find it, I just went with the red sticky type engine assembly lube that came with my new Comp Cam in the kit and also bought a bottle of " Permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube " which looks much like the small packet that came with the cam. As its a general assembly lube, its meant to put on lifters, the cam, bearings and so on so wasn't a concern in getting on the cam bearings and so forth. I had dipped the lifters in engine oil prior to installation although I put a dribble of this assembly lube on the bottom of each lifter before I dropped them into place. I wasn't thrilled that I couldn't seem to round up the moly lube but so far it seems fine or at least knock on wood, I think so at around 3000 miles so far. I did use the Gibbs 15w-50 break in oil for the first bit and made sure to run the engine at over 2000 to 2500 RPM for the first 30 minutes if not more just to be safe.

I also made up a tool to turn the oil pump over to push oil through the oil passages but this wasn't a totally dissembled engine, just a cam change along with a fresh oil pump.

So its not like I can claim this red engine assembly lube is so wonderful but its what I had to work with and only more time will tell if the cam gives me good service or not.

06-25-2013 03:58 PM

cobalt327

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetlil66

You guys must think Im a complete dum dum. I knew that lol. (I adjust the valves before start up and that requires turning the engine over. I do not go back and re lube w/the moly break in lube- else the valves would need to be readjusted all over again.)

Actually I was just rambling on- it wasn't a comment directed to you or anything. It was to say that there's noting wrong w/the engine being rotated after the lube is on the cam. Now, excessive cranking to get it to start up is something you want to avoid.

06-25-2013 03:40 AM

sweetlil66

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Is the CC cam break in lube that red liquid? I really don't much care for it- or any of the thin (compared to moly grease) break in lubes, but I suppose there have been a lot of cams successfully broken in using it.

I have always used the black moly break in lube like I mentioned above, and like what I think is going to be in the tube you linked to above. Hopefully someone will chime in on the red lube if that's what you're dealing with, or you can research it for yourself.

Regardless of what you do as far as turning over the engine before the first start up, etc., there should be a layer of moly break in lube on the lifters and cam lobes. Also on the distributor gears and the mechanical fuel pump lobe and push rod.

That said, I adjust the valves before start up and that requires turning the engine over. I do not go back and re lube w/the moly break in lube- else the valves would need to be readjusted all over again.

You guys must think Im a complete dum dum. I knew that lol. (I adjust the valves before start up and that requires turning the engine over. I do not go back and re lube w/the moly break in lube- else the valves would need to be readjusted all over again.)

It must have something to do with me being so tired and or over thinking everything. Iv had some major bad luck this year and I guess its causing me to over think everything as well. Iv lost my dad this year. Dhs has been by the house twice bc my lil brother keeps getting in fights (You know how that goes -they catch you at the worst time when the house is a mess and s4int is flying every what way and they have something to say about it).
I traded my truck that I loved because I did not have the money to rebuild it - only to find out I was lied to and had to rebuild a engine any way.
(This is away cool truck but Iv got one kid now that im taking care of by my self bc my wife is temp disabled and to top it off shes pregnant again. so this truck is gonna f me even more because we cant fit the 3 of us in it)

Guys Im so sorry for the stupid questions - I feel like Im wasting yalls time - even tho its helping a ton. I just dont wanna make any mistakes. :b oxing::box ing::boxin g:

06-25-2013 02:40 AM

cobalt327

Is the CC cam break in lube that red liquid? I really don't much care for it- or any of the thin (compared to moly grease) break in lubes, but I suppose there have been a lot of cams successfully broken in using it.

I have always used the black moly break in lube like I mentioned above, and like what I think is going to be in the tube you linked to above. Hopefully someone will chime in on the red lube if that's what you're dealing with, or you can research it for yourself.

Regardless of what you do as far as turning over the engine before the first start up, etc., there should be a layer of moly break in lube on the lifters and cam lobes. Also on the distributor gears and the mechanical fuel pump lobe and push rod.

That said, I adjust the valves before start up and that requires turning the engine over. I do not go back and re lube w/the moly break in lube- else the valves would need to be readjusted all over again.

06-25-2013 01:56 AM

sweetlil66

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Your lifter to bore fit sounds good. I like to use solvent like acetone on a shotgun mop to remove any varnish that might have been left behind after cleaning. A shotgun bristle brush and acetone in a drill will break up anything that acetone on a rag won't get. But if the bores look like fresh cast iron and don't have an amber tint (indicating varnish), then you're good to go if the lifters will fall into place by their own weight. To fall by gravity alone takes a light amount of lubrication so if the lifters are slathered w/motor oil, sometimes they won't fall just by gravity alone- but that's OK as long as the other things are good, as in clean bores, lifters easily rotated by a finger, etc. like you've done already.

The cam lube you linked looks good although I've not used it before. The MAIN thing is that it clings and contains moly. FWIW I bought several cans of this some years ago and it works very good. Your Lunati brand has 10 grams, I suppose that's enough for an engine so you should be good to go. Four ounces of the Isky RevLube is WAY more than one engine uses so unless you're going to do more engine building in the future, it's prollably not a good buy for you even though the price per gram is almost three times as much for the small tube compared to the can.

Remember- no cam break in lube on the lifter sides (where they contact the lifter bores)- only on the lifter bottoms. Also the cam lobes need the heavy break in lube. I always actually rub the lube onto/into the lobes good and hard because the parkerized finish on the cam is somewhat rough/porous so rubbing on the lube helps getting them as lubed as possible. Moly lube will stain your hands so using vinyl gloves will help.

You'll need to work out how you're gonna do this w/the cam already in the engine. You could use an acid brush that you had pulled on the bristles to remove any that were loose, then use it to work the break in grease onto the cam, using a decent amount of pressure.

Thanks for the info. Iv got a question. (You'll need to work out how you're gonna do this w/the cam already in the engine. You could use an acid brush that you had pulled on the bristles to remove any that were loose, then use it to work the break in grease onto the cam, using a decent amount of pressure.)

The shop that installed the cam greased the cam already with the comp cams gease that came with the cam- Iv checked I can feel it on the cam with my pinkie. I need more grease???

Also Iv installed the lifter once before - Installing the lifters and spinning the motor will remove some of the grease so I probably need to re grease anyway right???

Sorry for all the questions just checking - gotta get it right!!!

Thanks guys!!!

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