Glue and Adhesives Q&A

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Dear NH,

I have a full-wall mirror glued to the wall above the vanity in my powder
room. The mirror has several scratches - almost gouges - on it. I would like to
glue a smaller, arched mirror on top of the existing mirror so that the
scratches are covered up. The effect should look like the old mirror is framing
the arched mirror. Is there a way to glue one mirror on top of another without
worrying about it falling off and breaking?

SS from Vernon Hills, IL

SS,

Sounds like a fabulous idea! Yes, you can glue one mirror atop another. A
common oil-based construction adhesive such as "Liquid Nails" will
work fine. I would suggest using a caulking tube rather than a can of glue...
it's much easier to apply and neater to use. Have some paint thinner handy for
cleanup, though.

The big problem is keeping the new mirror in place on the wall until the glue
dries! While the glue is wet, some sort of support will need to be improvised to
keep the mirror from sliding out of position.

I'll make a suggestion as to how I might do this, but don't feel constrained
by it. Most home repair problems have many solutions. So look at the situation
"first hand" and use your imagination to improve on it! Make a strip
of plywood or other wood that will sit on the vanity top and support the bottom
edge of the new mirror. One continuous piece would be best, but two pieces (one
at either end) would also work. You might have to use two pieces (or notch out a
single-piece) if the sink is in the way!

Test-fit the mirror and the piece of wood. If you are satisfied with the
position of the mirror, tape the wood to the wall to hold it in place. A
light-tack tape such as "painter's tape" should work fine, but you
will have to be careful that the mirror does not sneak behind the wood or it
will slide down!

Now to the gluing technique. Since neither mirror is porous, you can't just
put the adhesive on, press the mirrors together and expect a great initial
"tack" or holding power. Instead, you must use the same technique that
is used when installing wall paneling. First, apply the glue to the mirror on
the wall at least within an inch of the imaginary border of the new mirror.
Apply a 1/4" bead at least 2 inches from the perimeter (you don't want any
squeezing out) and a few vertical beads 4 to 6 inches apart. Then press the new
mirror in place exactly where you want it to be, resting on your wood base.
Immediately pull the new mirror an inch or two off the wall from the top and
allow the adhesive to air dry for about a minute. Then press the mirror back in
place. Now the new mirror should really grip to the old one.

I wouldn't trust the glue 100% for at least 24 hours. Use whatever you have
available to keep it against the wall. Since it will be on the mirrors, not a
finished wall surface, a stronger tape such as duct tape can be used. Don't seal
the entire edge of the mirror (you'll slow down the drying of the glue)... just
a few strips along the top and sides. You could also lean something heavy
against the mirror. Use your imagination! Again, the mirror will tend to stay in
place but you want to be absolutely sure it doesn't move! Once the glue dries,
the mirror will be in place forever.

Dear NH,

I got this tip from a handyman- don't know if it is included on your site or
not but I couldn't find it. If you keep SuperGlue in the freezer it never dries
and the cap is easy to remove… plus the spout never gets clogged with dry glue!
It should be stored in an upright position to work. Love the newsletter!

DO

Dear NH,

Referring to a reader's question last month… storing glues in the freezer is
a solution for "keeping" them liquid. However, I've found that storing them
upside down in the freezer keeps the air away from the spout and allows for
quick dispensing of the liquid.

OG

Another great suggestion! Bless you for sharing it, because I feel a
little ignorant on these glue storage issues... mostly because I carry
everything with me in my truck so refrigeration is not part of my daily routine!
In fact, keeping glues from not freezing is my biggest concern in the
winter months.

Dear NH,

I patched my airbed last year with Goop and it worked great.
However, the leak was from a tear and it has begun to tear again.
Is it possible I didn't let the Goop set long enough before using
the bed?

I know that rounding a tear can keep it from expanding, but I
will then need to fill the hole with some sort of backing piece or
patch. Do you have any suggestions?

PE

PE,

Goop requires air to dry and requires at least 24 hours to gain
full strength. Goop does not "set" like an epoxy... it
dries by evaporation of a solvent.

Hey... don't beat up on yourself! If your repair lasted a year,
you probably did nothing wrong. It is important to note, though,
that using a vinyl patch along with an adhesive helps to reinforce
tears and holes, thus extending the repair's life. I am not a
vinyl repair expert, and it may be possible that Goop is not be
the best repair product. Only your owner's manual would know for
sure!

Vinyl patch kits are commonly available in hardware, home and
pool supply stores.

In speculation, if you were to use a vinyl patch with Goop, I
would recommend applying the Goop to both surfaces, press the
patch in place and then pull it off for a minute or two to allow
the Goop to begin to set. Then press parts back together. This tip
is from the Goop instructional material for bonding non-porous
surfaces. As mentioned earlier, the solvent in Goop needs to
evaporate for the Goop to set... allowing this
"pre-drying" speeds the process along!