My understanding is that in some parts of the USA, people are allowed to replace their own gas fired water heaters. If that's the case, I don't see much difference between replacing a water heater and a gas stove. But, where I live, you need a "gas ticket" (meaning you're licenced to work with gas piping) to install or replace any kind of gas appliance. Any job which requires that a person open a gas line requires that the person have a gas ticket.

However, a gas leak can be extremely dangerous. Best to find out IF you're allowed to do this kind of work yourself where you live. If so, then post again and we can provide more specific directions.

If not, then you need to consider that you can save 90% of the cost of maintaining your home by doing all the stuff that's both easy and safe yourself. It's foolish to start trying to shave that remaining 10% down any further by doing stuff that's dangerous and which you're not qualified to do.

I'm told that I can replace the oven without a plumber. The issue here is money. It's going to cost almost $250 for the story to install it! A plumber would be even more. The oven we're looking at is less than $300! I'm also told that it's fairly easy to replace an oven so long as you are very careful to make sure everything is sealed properly. Safety is always number one, but if we can do this and safe a boatload of money, I'd really like to. I appreciate any advice you can provide.

I don't know where you live, but $250 to connect a new freestanding stove to the wall gas supply plus install a safety bracket is way out of line.

And you claim the a plumber will be even more...These amounts exceed "Beverly Hills" prices.

If you are determined to do it yourself, pay attention to the recommendations you are given here in this forum. Plus:

- Turn the gas off at the valve. If it's hard to turn with a wrench, don't force it, replace the valve (less than $10). To replace the valve turn main gas valve off. Use yellow teflon tape, not white, or joint compound/sealant for the thread.
- Visually inspect the gas supply line for kinks, cracks, bends. If slightly damaged, replace (less than $20). Do a gas leak check (mix some dishdetergent in a bowl and put some on the gas connections. If it bubbles - you have a leak).
- All new ovens come with a safety bracket - to ensure that the oven won't tip over. Install it.

It's your call if you fell you are qualified to install it then do so. But if your doing it with no qualifications and are just trying to save money how can you put a price on you and your families safety.

I'm not familiar with the "brackets" described in the previous posts, so I can't help you there.

You need to shut off the gas to your stove, or whole house first. Follow the gas line back from the stove and see where there's a valve to shut the gas off. You need to shut the gas off before you disconnect the gas supply line to the old stove.

Where I live, gas valves will typically be plug valves. Whether it's a plug valve or a ball valve or any other kind of valve in your gas line, there will typically be markings of some sort on the valve that turns with the plug or ball. When those markings are parallel to the gas valve body, then the valve is open. When they're perpendicular to the gas valve body, the valve is closed. If you only see a handle on the valve, then the handle itself is the marking, and when it's parallel to the valve body, the valve is open. Like this:

Often, the marking will only be a pair of dimples on the plug of the valve. Watch to see that these markings move 90 degrees when you close the gas valve.

There will be a gas connector that supplies gas to the old stove. This gas connector has a normal thread on it, so you unscrew it by turning counter clockwise just like you unscrew a light bulb. It's best to hold whatever the connector is screwed into steady with a second wrench or pair of plier while you undo the connector.

Also, there should be an electrical cord to the gas stove to supply 120 volt power to it. You obviously need to unplug the old stove.

Plug in the new stove. Screw in the gas connector to the new stove, and reinstall that bracket business others were talking about.

NOW, turn the gas valve back on and check for gas leaks as follows:

Mix up a 50:50 solution of liquid dish washing detergent and water and paint that all around every gas connection that you undid and reconnected using a small paint brush. Look for bubbles being blown at each connection point. Any time you brush a soapy solution, there will be tiny bubbles formed, but those aren't the ones you're looking for. You're looking for bubbles that GROW. Any place you see bubbles growing in size is a gas leak and needs to be corrected. While you're at it, check all the gas connections behind the new stove just to confirm that nothing is leaking.

in canada as of 3 years ago plumbing and pipefitting are two eniterely different trades. yes both are similar but require different types of pipe. both are compulsary trades which means you absolutely must have your ticket to work in this trade. you screw something up big time you lose your license.

do yourself a favor, dont cheap out and risk an explosion. if something does happen theres a good chance your home insurance company wont do anything for you if the explosion is tracked down the pipe work you did

How do you install a shutoff valve? I have a capped-off gas line on the first floor of my two-flat -- the former owners once had a stove there, but they moved to the top floor and had the stove uninstalled.

It looks like it's as simple as shutting off the gas to the first floor, unscrewing the cap on the line, and screwing in the shutoff valve using thread sealer for gas lines. Is there anything I'm missing?

How do you install a shutoff valve? I have a capped-off gas line on the first floor of my two-flat -- the former owners once had a stove there, but they moved to the top floor and had the stove uninstalled.

It looks like it's as simple as shutting off the gas to the first floor, unscrewing the cap on the line, and screwing in the shutoff valve using thread sealer for gas lines. Is there anything I'm missing?

Congratulations on reviving a thread that's over 2 years old. Next time, you're better off starting your own thread for a question.

But, since you asked... you've got the basics down. Just make sure the thread sealant is suitable for gas. Also make sure the area is well ventilated to the outside, and extinguish any open flames and turn off any heating appliances. Also avoid flipping light switches or using power tools while you're changing things up, since some residual gas will leak out of the lines.

After you've got the valve installed, make sure it's turned off while you turn on the main supply. Wait several minutes, then use soapy water to check for leaks -- if it bubbles, there's a leak that must be addressed. Small leaks are NEVER acceptable.

Be very careful the first time you light a pilot on a newly connected appliance. (Many modern appliances use electronic ignition, so this doesn't apply.) It may take a while to purge air out of the lines before gas gets to the pilot. NEVER light a match or lighter while the valve is open and the pilot is unlit; always light the match first, bring it next to the pilot, then open the valve. If the match goes out, immediately shut the valve.