Throughout the course of this post you will find the steps I use in case window modification, that add an "Eye of the Storm" window to any steel panel case door. If you follow these methods, and use the indicated materials, you too, can add a more visual pleasing case panel to accentuate your components.[/i]

[i]Prior to performing any modifications, you should always have your tools required to start, and finish the job, although it may take several hours, or even days to complete.

Before performing the first steps required for this modification you need to prep your case panel for the job. This means have it cleaned, dissembled, and properly planned before you begin. I suggested never using a form of soap on a metal surface. Tepid water, and a paper towel is ideal for removing smudges on metallic surfaces. [/i]

[b]Disassembly (only required where applicable)[/b]

I will be using a stock "Antec 1200" full tower case panel in this tutorial.

Throughout the course of this post you will find the steps I use in case window modification, that add an "Eye of the Storm" window to any steel panel case door. If you follow these methods, and use the indicated materials, you too, can add a more visual pleasing case panel to accentuate your components.

Prior to performing any modifications, you should always have your tools required to start, and finish the job, although it may take several hours, or even days to complete.

Before performing the first steps required for this modification you need to prep your case panel for the job. This means have it cleaned, dissembled, and properly planned before you begin. I suggested never using a form of soap on a metal surface. Tepid water, and a paper towel is ideal for removing smudges on metallic surfaces.

Disassembly (only required where applicable)

I will be using a stock "Antec 1200" full tower case panel in this tutorial.

[i]During this segment of the tutorial, you will need to measure the outer case panel dimensions, and inner "existing" dimensions in order to clear preexisting mounting points, and give yourself adequate space for the connecting slots to your tower, as cutting too far on the outside of the panel will ruin your chances of mounting the panel to the case. [/i]

1) Use a tape measure or ruler to measure where the existing window mounting area is present (this is only required on cases with existing windows) . In this case I moved 1/8" outward from the area so that I would not be cutting into the seam in the frame, and thus expanding the viewable area.

2) Mask the panel completely, making sure you cover the entire face with masking tape in order to both protect, and give you ample area for measurement.

3) Make your measurements based-off the area you wish to remove, and make sure you begin outside of the point clearing the existing frame appropriately. IMPORTANT: Edge-Molding does not adhere to 90 degree angles, in which case, a circular object is required for the corners (I used a beer bottle for this tutorial). Use your carpenter's square, and your pencil to make your marks accurately, and in accordance with the area you wish to have viewable on your panel.

During this segment of the tutorial, you will need to measure the outer case panel dimensions, and inner "existing" dimensions in order to clear preexisting mounting points, and give yourself adequate space for the connecting slots to your tower, as cutting too far on the outside of the panel will ruin your chances of mounting the panel to the case.

1) Use a tape measure or ruler to measure where the existing window mounting area is present (this is only required on cases with existing windows) . In this case I moved 1/8" outward from the area so that I would not be cutting into the seam in the frame, and thus expanding the viewable area.

2) Mask the panel completely, making sure you cover the entire face with masking tape in order to both protect, and give you ample area for measurement.

3) Make your measurements based-off the area you wish to remove, and make sure you begin outside of the point clearing the existing frame appropriately. IMPORTANT: Edge-Molding does not adhere to 90 degree angles, in which case, a circular object is required for the corners (I used a beer bottle for this tutorial). Use your carpenter's square, and your pencil to make your marks accurately, and in accordance with the area you wish to have viewable on your panel.

Attachments

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*

So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.

[i]In this segment you will be cutting your measured area from the panel. This is the most important step of the process, as this will make, or break your modification. So please exercise both caution, and patience, making sure to follow the steps closely, and carefully.
Before beginning, make sure your panel is placed on an area that the panel will not bend, and is tightly secured for cutting. I recommend using an adjustable work table with corner clamps, so that the panel does not move during the cutting process. This also allows you to move freely, and make your cuts without recalibrating the panel's position at the workstation. [/i]

1) Using your Dremel, make your initial incision at the largest length within your area of measurement (normally vertical). It should be about an inch in length to give you adequate mobility when placing your Jigsaw in the opened slot .

2) Carefully place your Jigsaw blade into the opening made by the Dremel.

3) Allow your Jigsaw to reach maximum RPMs prior to moving the blade forward, and proceeding with the cutting process.

4) Carefully move your jigsaw at a steady pace throughout your first measurement line. IMPORTANT : keep in mind your distance to the first curve you are approaching, as a different method is required for accuracy.

5) Once you have reached the first corner, move your Jigsaw in a slow back-and-fourth motion along the line. IMPORTANT : Do not allow the blade itself to flex or follow an irregular path. In order to proceed through the corner you will need to recalibrate your angle near every 1/8" you cut. Position your body into the corner, as if you were following the corner by foot. This helps with both trajectory, and accuracy.

[b]FINAL NOTE:[/b] [i]Repeat steps 3-5 in order to remove the measured area from your panel. Remember, it is not a race, and you should exercise patience, and careful planning on your approach to each dimension.[/i]

In this segment you will be cutting your measured area from the panel. This is the most important step of the process, as this will make, or break your modification. So please exercise both caution, and patience, making sure to follow the steps closely, and carefully.

Before beginning, make sure your panel is placed on an area that the panel will not bend, and is tightly secured for cutting. I recommend using an adjustable work table with corner clamps, so that the panel does not move during the cutting process. This also allows you to move freely, and make your cuts without recalibrating the panel's position at the workstation.

1) Using your Dremel, make your initial incision at the largest length within your area of measurement (normally vertical). It should be about an inch in length to give you adequate mobility when placing your Jigsaw in the opened slot .

2) Carefully place your Jigsaw blade into the opening made by the Dremel.

3) Allow your Jigsaw to reach maximum RPMs prior to moving the blade forward, and proceeding with the cutting process.

4) Carefully move your jigsaw at a steady pace throughout your first measurement line. IMPORTANT : keep in mind your distance to the first curve you are approaching, as a different method is required for accuracy.

5) Once you have reached the first corner, move your Jigsaw in a slow back-and-fourth motion along the line. IMPORTANT : Do not allow the blade itself to flex or follow an irregular path. In order to proceed through the corner you will need to recalibrate your angle near every 1/8" you cut. Position your body into the corner, as if you were following the corner by foot. This helps with both trajectory, and accuracy.

FINAL NOTE:Repeat steps 3-5 in order to remove the measured area from your panel. Remember, it is not a race, and you should exercise patience, and careful planning on your approach to each dimension.

Attachments

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*

So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.

[i]Once you have successfully removed the measured area for your window, you will now need to use your "deburring," or filing bit to smooth the edge surrounding the perimeter of the cutting area. [/i]

1) With your bit attached to your drill reach maximum RPMs and allow your bit to make contact at an angle opposite of the panels face. I find it is easier to place the panel face-down allowing the bit to work opposite the initial cutting path. IMPORTANT : When doing this you should keep your arms stiff, and DO NOT allow the bit to snag or pull in the direction of rotation. If you have a variable drill, set to maximum bore in the reverse cycle for best results.

2) Remove all of the masking tape that was applied as the protective cover for the case panel.

3) If by chance you made scratches from the pressure plate on the jig saw, or the drill got away from you. I suggest taking the appliance paint pen mentioned on the materials page, and gently touch up the tarnished areas. IMPORTANT : I would not directly use the pen on the panel due to blending issues with certain mattes, and glosses. Instead, paint the corner of a business card with a thick layer from the pen, and gently apply the paint to the panel from the card. This will aid in proper blending and ensure a smooth finish.

Once you have successfully removed the measured area for your window, you will now need to use your "deburring," or filing bit to smooth the edge surrounding the perimeter of the cutting area.

1) With your bit attached to your drill reach maximum RPMs and allow your bit to make contact at an angle opposite of the panels face. I find it is easier to place the panel face-down allowing the bit to work opposite the initial cutting path. IMPORTANT : When doing this you should keep your arms stiff, and DO NOT allow the bit to snag or pull in the direction of rotation. If you have a variable drill, set to maximum bore in the reverse cycle for best results.

2) Remove all of the masking tape that was applied as the protective cover for the case panel.

3) If by chance you made scratches from the pressure plate on the jig saw, or the drill got away from you. I suggest taking the appliance paint pen mentioned on the materials page, and gently touch up the tarnished areas. IMPORTANT : I would not directly use the pen on the panel due to blending issues with certain mattes, and glosses. Instead, paint the corner of a business card with a thick layer from the pen, and gently apply the paint to the panel from the card. This will aid in proper blending and ensure a smooth finish.

Attachments

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*

So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.

2) Apply the edge molding to the smoothed area to the interior of the panel's opening. Use equal pressure throughout the process, making sure not to over-stretch, or leave any slack in the molding around the edges or corners.

3) Prepare your acrylic by measuring the area required to effectively cover the panel's opening. IMPORTANT : As before, when making your marks on the acrylic, be sure not to over extend the areas provided for attachment to the case itself.

4) This part is for those who have experience in this area, or just want to test, or acquire, a new skill. Once the measurement is complete you will need to use your plastic scoring blade along the measured area. IMPORTANT: You should replicate your measurements carefully on both sides of the acrylic, and cut on both sides, before attempting to extract the cut piece. Once the piece is cut evenly, apply equal bending pressure back-and-fourth until the piece is removed.

[b]Final Note :[/b] [i]Congratulations, you are almost there! If you followed the steps as specified, and are worth a damn with tools, the last and easiest step will leave your panel looking professionally sexy. [/i]

Now that you have your window cut, you must protect the integrity of the acrylic, and give your case panel a clean professional look.

1) Prepare your edge molding by measuring the open area and planning the length accordingly. This does not need to be 100% accurate, but, it is always wise to go over on length, rather than under.

2) Apply the edge molding to the smoothed area to the interior of the panel's opening. Use equal pressure throughout the process, making sure not to over-stretch, or leave any slack in the molding around the edges or corners.

3) Prepare your acrylic by measuring the area required to effectively cover the panel's opening. IMPORTANT : As before, when making your marks on the acrylic, be sure not to over extend the areas provided for attachment to the case itself.

4) This part is for those who have experience in this area, or just want to test, or acquire, a new skill. Once the measurement is complete you will need to use your plastic scoring blade along the measured area. IMPORTANT: You should replicate your measurements carefully on both sides of the acrylic, and cut on both sides, before attempting to extract the cut piece. Once the piece is cut evenly, apply equal bending pressure back-and-fourth until the piece is removed.

Final Note :Congratulations, you are almost there! If you followed the steps as specified, and are worth a damn with tools, the last and easiest step will leave your panel looking professionally sexy.

Attachments

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*

So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.

[i]Holy smokes, you did it man! You are ready for the last step in completing your own "Eye of the Storm" window mod. You will be showing off your inner demons in notime!

This last step, however simple it may seem, can be goofed quite easily, and send you back to the hardware store with your tail between your legs. So let us do it right, and finish this bad boy off. [/i]

1) With the inside of your panel facing you, take your Scotch 4010 tape, and apply it along the edge-molding's exterior perimeter. I suggest evenly calibrated lengths so that the weight is countered on each side accordingly. Do not worry about covering the entire span of the acrylic area, as this tape could hold the window with less than 4 inches of tape on each side, however, I always aim to do just that.

2) Once the tape is applied, double check for bumps or abnormal areas along the edge-molding. Once you are satisfied with the tapes flatness, you may remove the red backing in preparation for mounting the window.

3) Remove the protective paper on both sides of your "shaped" acrylic piece. Once this is completed, you need to evenly distribute your acrylic window on-top of your Scotch 4010 tape applying pressure to the perimeter, only after it is in place.

[b]Final Note:[/b] [i]Thank you, and I hope you enjoy your new "Eye of the Storm" window. Please leave feedback on this post, and I hope it sticks around for veteran, and new modders alike, so that they may enjoy adding new flavor to their favorite build. More modding tips possibly on the way, if the feedback is positive enough to merit it, and fits the moderator's parameters.[/i]

Holy smokes, you did it man! You are ready for the last step in completing your own "Eye of the Storm" window mod. You will be showing off your inner demons in notime!

This last step, however simple it may seem, can be goofed quite easily, and send you back to the hardware store with your tail between your legs. So let us do it right, and finish this bad boy off.

1) With the inside of your panel facing you, take your Scotch 4010 tape, and apply it along the edge-molding's exterior perimeter. I suggest evenly calibrated lengths so that the weight is countered on each side accordingly. Do not worry about covering the entire span of the acrylic area, as this tape could hold the window with less than 4 inches of tape on each side, however, I always aim to do just that.

2) Once the tape is applied, double check for bumps or abnormal areas along the edge-molding. Once you are satisfied with the tapes flatness, you may remove the red backing in preparation for mounting the window.

3) Remove the protective paper on both sides of your "shaped" acrylic piece. Once this is completed, you need to evenly distribute your acrylic window on-top of your Scotch 4010 tape applying pressure to the perimeter, only after it is in place.

Final Note:Thank you, and I hope you enjoy your new "Eye of the Storm" window. Please leave feedback on this post, and I hope it sticks around for veteran, and new modders alike, so that they may enjoy adding new flavor to their favorite build. More modding tips possibly on the way, if the feedback is positive enough to merit it, and fits the moderator's parameters.

Final Product

-Captain Hooks, signing off...

Attachments

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*

So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.

Both the finished article and the straight foreward instructions - Top Notch.

Attachments

I knew I hadn't imagined it... now it's deleted = people will never know what I hadn't imagined...

"Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning."

"Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"

Very nice read hooks! I think along with my next build (still months/years away) I will be using a new case and maybe modding it as well. It's good to know that we have an in-house reference such as your self that can help all of us with this type of thing. Keep up the good work buddy!

Very nice read hooks! I think along with my next build (still months/years away) I will be using a new case and maybe modding it as well. It's good to know that we have an in-house reference such as your self that can help all of us with this type of thing. Keep up the good work buddy!

Someone tell Godddess to read this, yes you CAN make a window for your case just follow this guide, if you can push an iron in a straight line, you can do the same with a jigsaw /yes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':yes:' />

Someone tell Godddess to read this, yes you CAN make a window for your case just follow this guide, if you can push an iron in a straight line, you can do the same with a jigsaw /yes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':yes:' />

Me thinks you are inline for retribution for that... and I don't mean a nicely ironed shirt /wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Attachments

I knew I hadn't imagined it... now it's deleted = people will never know what I hadn't imagined...

"Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning."

"Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"