Congratulation on your performance. It is so nice to see all your hard work has paid off.. Those are very respectable times. If you wan to go faster , look at removing anything you can to save weight, but ONLY IN FRONT of the driver. When you take weight off behind the driver, many times the traction you had goes away---

bigjoe1 wrote:Congratulation on your performance. It is so nice to see all your hard work has paid off.. Those are very respectable times. If you wan to go faster , look at removing anything you can to save weight, but ONLY IN FRONT of the driver. When you take weight off behind the driver, many times the traction you had goes away---

JOE SHERMAN RACING

Yes, she needs to lose some weight....in front is better because the wheelies will be higher!!!

What you think about my power estimate Joe? seems ok for the car weight and performance?

Thank you again, for the tip and nice words Big Joe...these words coming from a live legend like You are priceless!

There is a standard progression of events that occur as a doorslammer launches.
Watching each of these events and at what point in time they occur gives you the clues you need to dial in your suspension.
The key is to making these events all happen at the right "time" is your shock valving controls.

"This should be the sequence of events seen on the video.

Right at launch the front should start to come up before any forward movement of the car.

The rear of the car with this added weight transferred from the rising front will lift very little but it should not go down (squat).
An inch or two is normal and can be best seen by looking at the relationship between the top of the slicks and the rear fender lip.

This one or two inches of rise will indicate that the rear of the car is lifting and pushing
harder on the tires while the front weight is being transferred (for every motion there is an equal and opposite motion).

If the front of the car does not rise first then the front shocks are too stiff or the rear shocks are not stiff enough.

If the rear of the car squats right away then the rear shocks are too loose.

I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces
on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away.
I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch.
I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment.

From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less than half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."

There is a standard progression of events that occur as a doorslammer launches.
Watching each of these events and at what point in time they occur gives you the clues you need to dial in your suspension.
The key is to making these events all happen at the right "time" is your shock valving controls.

"This should be the sequence of events seen on the video.

Right at launch the front should start to come up before any forward movement of the car.

The rear of the car with this added weight transferred from the rising front will lift very little but it should not go down (squat).
An inch or two is normal and can be best seen by looking at the relationship between the top of the slicks and the rear fender lip.

This one or two inches of rise will indicate that the rear of the car is lifting and pushing
harder on the tires while the front weight is being transferred (for every motion there is an equal and opposite motion).

If the front of the car does not rise first then the front shocks are too stiff or the rear shocks are not stiff enough.

If the rear of the car squats right away then the rear shocks are too loose.

I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces
on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away.
I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch.
I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment.

From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less than half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."

Good info here

Yes, I need to work on the suspension to make the weight transfer a bit slower, because my car pull the wheels off the ground, runs a couple feet then the wheel touch the ground, then they lift again...then they come back to ground....seems like the weight transfer is too fast and the IC is a bit high.

Probably I'll work on these settings next race and see what happens....what you think , sounds like a good move?

BrazilianZ28Camaro wrote: my car pull the wheels off the ground, runs a couple feet then the wheel touch the ground, then they lift again...then they come back to ground....seems like the weight transfer is too fast and the IC is a bit high.

Probably I'll work on these settings next race and see what happens....what you think , sounds like a good move?

Thanks for reply!

Take a friend with you and do some more video.. pay close attention to the "Rear" tires and see if they are "bouncing" at the hit.. and slipping a little before biting again.. like he talks about.. stiffen the rear shocks until they settle down.. then see if you can adjust the fronts to provide the transfer without the bounce..

If the front end travel is allowed to come up really fast, the negative result is what happens when you run out of suspension travel. If you do not run out of suspension travel gently, you will unload the rear of the car because you just jerked the tires off of the ground resulting in a shockwave down the chassis unloading the tires."