David Grunfeld / The Times-PicayuneEggs Stanley marries eggs with fried oysters and Canadian bacon atop an English muffin.

Because it was one of the very first restaurants to open in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina, and because doing so meant its initial customers were largely journalists who knew a good story when they smelled one, a legend built up around Stanley.

It was the restaurant that helped feed a city left for dead, the place where chef Scott Boswell, the ambitious mind behind Stella!, found his soul and expressed his devotion to New Orleans.

Turns out that story is only partially true.

"The way it really all began was I bought this ice cream machine," Boswell explained. "At the same time, the beef filet was the best-selling item at Stella! We had all this filet trim that we ground out and made for family meals (served to the staff). But there's only so many times you can serve hamburger at family meals."

David Grunfeld / The Times-PicayuneChef Scott Boswell shows off his po-boy sliders, mini versions of the local favorite.

His fascination with making great ice cream and that growing stockpile of ground steak he began freezing for later use, gave Boswell the idea for Stanley well before the levees failed. The floods simply hastened the top-shelf New Orleans diner into existence.

Stanley built a following around those fresh-ground burgers, terrific Reubens, a kimchi-charged Korean beef po-boy and eggs Benedict gilded with fried oysters and frothy hollandaise. The restaurant also kept Boswell afloat while Stella! was closed for renovations.

David Grunfeld / The Times-PicayuneHousemade ice cream is another treat at Stanley.

Stanley closed in its original location on Decatur Street after a year, largely because Boswell didn't believe the space could accommodate the restaurant he envisioned. He found such a space on Jackson Square, where Stanley finally reopened late last year.

"It's a dream come true," Boswell said of the reborn restaurant. "In the first three months we're doing better than we did the whole last year down at Stella! -- and that was the best year we've ever had down there."

The chef who made his name with impressive technique and invention at Stella! also claims to be just as stimulated working in the kitchen at his much more modest restaurant down the street. He's particularly jazzed about his latest creation: po-boy sliders, mini versions of the local favorite.

"It's really fun down here. It's fast-paced. People are amazed how fast they're getting great food," Boswell said. "It's a whole different world."