Well after much thought and consideration, I have decided to cut down to one bike. So my mountain bike that used to look like this:

now has been put into full use as a commuter and looks like this:

Oh and fenders are on their way so then the whole setup will be complete. May be getting some barends if I can find some I like. Been looking at the cane creek ergo ends that come on a few of the treks

Hey, how did you get a rack to fit on your Smoke? I have one too, but the fenders have this weird hookup I couldn't fit a proper rack to

so I have to use a seatpost one instead

Actually since those pictures (from my last post) last summer in Vancouver I've used my Smoke in a Regina winter:

I've never really biked in the winter before, and even in the summer Regina isn't exactly the best place to commute, but I was told lowering the seat (to lower your centre of gravity) and deflating the tires (to increase traction surface area) can be helpful. I was actually surprised how stable it was, especially at stops where I'd put my foot down and my leg would slide right out, though the bike held firm.

Corners are kind of scary though, especially coming off a mostly-clear main road onto a snowed-over side (residential) one - drivers don't seem to realise bikes have to slow to a crawl to make the corners without sliding out. Also, you end up riding in the ruts in the road, where there's more bare road for traction - drivers didn't seem to understand that I couldn't just ride on the edge where it was all slippery.

Proper studded tires would've been helpful, but as long as the roads are clear of high snow and not totally iced over, it's manageable with regular slicks. Disc brakes would be nice too, in case your rims get caked with ice and make rim brakes useless.

The point he was making was that if I had to use a stem riser then the bike was a bit small and he's right. I've had to add a stem riser, longest stem I could find (140mm adjustable) and find a seat post with more setback to put more distance between me and handlebars. If I'd gotten the bike one size bigger, it would have been perfect in terms of size.

Wrong! At least for me. I have short legs and a long torso, making a stem riser a necessity for proper fit.

Well, here it is. I just lowered the handlebar an inch (2 spacers), and I want to get a bigger headlight. I hit the Scott Pierson Trail last night in the rain to find out that it is not lit. My little light did fine, but I think it needs a bit of help

what is with the pad on the top tube? I've seen it on a lot of flat-bar fixed-gears.

They keep the top tube prestine, the same reasoning that applies to putting a plastic cover over a newly purchased couch. Except trendier. One might question the purpose of keeping the top tube prestine by covering with a pad if the top tube is never seen due to it being covered by a pad. A conundrum to be sure. I imagine that groups of fixed-gear fanatics get together in covered garages under low UV light and gently remove the top tube pads and admire that beauty that is their top tube for a brief moment before the light begins to break down the paint (30 second window, I think). At which point the pad is quickly restored.

Except that nobody worries about denting a couch. Some handlebars favored by fixed riders will poke right into the top tube. If dent-free counts as "pristine", then that's a good enough reason.

You're right there, with a couch it's more about the grape juice issue. BTW, handlebars that pierce your top tube should get a darwin award, this seems to be an unsafe practice. I am doubting that the pad would make much difference there.

So as to not go too off topic here, I ride a couple year-old poprad that has little left of stock componants, and a dahon speed pro. I have no pictures. I'll try and "spell check" from now on.

You're right there, with a couch it's more about the grape juice issue. BTW, handlebars that pierce your top tube should get a darwin award, this seems to be an unsafe practice. I am doubting that the pad would make much difference there.

It would make even less difference with that flat-bar fixie/SS because its bars won't touch the top tube at all (which I only realized after I wrote my post and saw the pic again.. lol).

Quote:

So as to not go too off topic here, I ride a couple year-old poprad that has little left of stock componants, and a dahon speed pro. I have no pictures. I'll try and "spell check" from now on.

I almost bought a Dahon Mu XL off of Craigslist; I only held back because I'm still enamored by the Tikit and its crazy-fast fold. I'm still sure that I'll get a folder someday.

The Dahon MU XL looks to be quite a tasty ride, probably a little more practical for commuting than the speed pro and its skinny weakish tires. Love BF and the tikit looks very nice, that would be a tough choice.

Let's start putting top tube pads on folders as well, we can think of a reason later.

Hey, how did you get a rack to fit on your Smoke? I have one too, but the fenders have this weird hookup I couldn't fit a proper rack to

so I have to use a seatpost one instead

Actually since those pictures (from my last post) last summer in Vancouver I've used my Smoke in a Regina winter:

I've never really biked in the winter before, and even in the summer Regina isn't exactly the best place to commute, but I was told lowering the seat (to lower your centre of gravity) and deflating the tires (to increase traction surface area) can be helpful. I was actually surprised how stable it was, especially at stops where I'd put my foot down and my leg would slide right out, though the bike held firm.

Corners are kind of scary though, especially coming off a mostly-clear main road onto a snowed-over side (residential) one - drivers don't seem to realise bikes have to slow to a crawl to make the corners without sliding out. Also, you end up riding in the ruts in the road, where there's more bare road for traction - drivers didn't seem to understand that I couldn't just ride on the edge where it was all slippery.

Proper studded tires would've been helpful, but as long as the roads are clear of high snow and not totally iced over, it's manageable with regular slicks. Disc brakes would be nice too, in case your rims get caked with ice and make rim brakes useless.

it just fitted right on i mounted the rack attchement points and the fender ones on the same hole.....

what is with the pad on the top tube? I've seen it on a lot of flat-bar fixed-gears.

I don't own a fixed-gear bike and I have never ridden one .... I have, however, gone on youtube and watched video of folks riding fixies. Very interesting the way the hardcore, "I've got no brakes but can pedal backwards" fixie rider stops ... the rider leans waaaayyyy foward, down on the handlebars and top tube, locking their legs and sliding to a stop.

I think if this was my idea of fun, I would certainly invest in a pad for the top tube .... probably the stem, too ... and it wouldn't be paint I was thinking about.

I've been commuting on the Kona Kilauea since I bought it new in '94. I added the Motobecane Le Champion to the mix in '02 for the nicer weather days. I always switch my lights and QR seatpost rack to whichever bike I decide to ride that day. I'm building up an old Fuji FG, so maybe I'll finally put some fenders and a real rack on something.