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The flagship store on Piccadilly is unashamedly posh, but Venters insists his customers span the social spectrum.

'The democratic nature of Fortnum's is that it is open to everyone.'

Well, almost everyone. There are some overseas despots who can't get a hamper. He says: 'We don't know for sure if Kim Jong Un is a Fortnum's fan but about a year ago we had an attempted order from North Korea.

'Was it him? Probably. But needless to say we didn't break any international trading rules or sanctions.'

As for leaders close to home, Venters says he doesn't know whether Theresa May is a customer.

'We have a Cabinet Blend Coffee that was commissioned by [William] Gladstone, who was Prime Minister during the reign of Queen Victoria.

'It is a very strong coffee, to keep him and his cabinet members going through long gruelling sessions. I think perhaps the Prime Minister ought to order some for herself. Or some tea and biscuits. If all else fails, tea and biscuits to the rescue.'

Fortnum's was founded in 1707 by William Fortnum, a royal footman, and Hugh Mason, his landlord.

It has, since 46-year-old Venters took over as chief executive six years ago, defied the gloom sweeping the High Street in spectacular style.

The most recent annual profits rose 26 per cent to £9.6million and sales were up 12 per cent to £126million in the year to the end of July.

'We have had six years of double digit sales growth,' he said. 'We have tripled the business in that time off the back of the most extraordinary historical brand that has been in business for 311 years.

When he joined, 60 per cent of the clientele was from overseas, but now 'we have completely flipped that so 60 per cent of our core business is consumers with an address here in the UK'.

He has also expanded out from the Piccadilly flagship. There are newer stores in St Pancras International train station and Heathrow Terminal Five, along with the latest opening, in the Royal Exchange building in the City.

'The cost of an average basket is very modest – about £35 or £40, which is not what you would expect,' says Venters.

'If you want to buy something really special for someone, you can come here and buy their favourite tea for £11.95, in a really gorgeous bag, maybe you add some Toffolossus Biscuits at £17.50.'

For the uninitiated, Toffolossus are chunky, chewy toffee and chocolate biscuits that come in a pretty tubular tin decorated with a picture of an elephant. Warming to his theme, Venters waxes lyrical on Fortnum's status as a great British retailer.

'We sell tea blended in Newcastle, chocolates made in Brighton, biscuits from Nelson in Lancashire, shortbreads made in Leith.

'Eighty two pence in every pound spent here is contributing to communities around Britain. Real people in real jobs are benefiting from this very smart grocer in London,' he says.

Fortnum's has also started offering apprenticeships with around 40 youngsters training in trades such as finance, warehousing, cheesemongering and even a handful of bee-keepers.

International expansion has been part of his masterplan, along with digital, which accounts for around 18 per cent of total sales.

'No matter whether they are from South Korea or visiting London for the day from Yorkshire, everyone is attracted by the amazing experience, the sights, the tasting, the gorgeous windows.'

Ah, those world-famous windows. This year they are on the theme of festive food, including a giant Christmas pudding with coins tumbling out, flying mince pies with holly leaves for wings pulling a gift-laden sleigh, and a Christmas tree formed from a pyramid of pale gold champagne flutes. The vitrines, Venters says, are a 'multi-million pound investment'.

'We have started on Christmas 2019 already,' he says.

Fortnum's fan? North Korean dictator Kim Jong Un

Venters lives in London with his young family. He has two young daughters, Charlotte, eight, and Sophia, six.

He skipped university to come from his home in Fife to the capital aged just 17 to start a career in retail. He was headhunted by Fortnum's from Selfridges after spending his earlier career at Sainsbury's and food suppliers Brake Brothers.

When asked about where the rest of the High Street is going wrong, he says: 'My theory is bring back residential homes into town centres. Bring back people and they will shop, it will be self-fulfilling.'

Is it true that Fortnum's is stockpiling champagne ahead of Brexit?

'Yes we are, but only because of the Chelsea Flower Show. We are the champagne sponsor so if there was none it would not be good.

'But I don't believe for a minute either mainland Europe or Britain won't find a solution that will allow goods to flow.'

Fortnum & Mason – which is chaired by Kate Hobhouse and owned by the Weston retail dynasty, of which she is a member – may be insulated to some degree from the distress in the retail sector but even for the grande dame of Piccadilly, business rates are a bugbear.

'They went up by about 48 per cent in the year that has just gone. It is huge, it is crazy. I am all in favour of us in central London paying a bit more if it is helping those in other parts of the country do better, but if it isn't, you start to feel a little resentful.'

Venters's Christmas will be spent at the Fife Arms hotel in Braemar, in Aberdeenshire, 'so there will be a bit less Fortnum's fare than usual,' he says.

'But for New Year's Eve we will have jacket potato, crème fraiche and caviar from Fortnum's. And on New Year's Day we're having a six rib of Glenarm beef which is exclusive to us here.'

And with the season of goodwill upon us, Venters talks a lot about the importance of kindness in business. 'You can still be competitive and ambitious but if there is kindness at the heart of how you treat your suppliers, your customers, your staff, it will shine through,' he says.

'It is not about being soft or being walked over. If every citizen committed a wilful act of kindness every day, imagine the momentum, the world would change.'