Tuesday, November 6, 2012

PampadumChola - Vandaravu : Khardung La of Kerala

The peak of Vandaravu aka Bandaravu locally known as Bandar,
falls on Kerala Tamilnadu border, on the erstwhile escapade route connecting
Munnar Top Station and Berijam near Kodaikanal. While on an earlier visit to Paampadumchola,
this particular board caught my attention which read “Highest road south of
Himalayas”, and it was a wonder info for me, as it was in Kerala. Further
enquiry revealed that the road was once motorable, but deprived of traffic
since early 90s, for wild life concern.

The journey,
with an aim that high, started as early as on 3 AM and reached Pampaadumchola
checkpost, near Top Station, by noon. As the trek was scheduled for the next
morning, thought of some rest and occupied the log house maintained by the
Forest dept., well inside Paampaadumchola national park. Pampadumshola itself is
worth a visit and a night stay at the log house, aptly located at a misty hill
side, will be an experience, memorable indeed.

Thickly weeded marshy sector just
beneath the hillock, which hosts the log house, is a sought after gracing field
of Indian Gaur.

The evening at Paampadumshola was spent in search of a bird -
Black and Orange Flycatcher – and a photo session with a Giant Malabar
squirrel, in the woods surrounding the log house.

Photo : Biju PB

Prepared rice porridge for
dinner and crawled into the warmth of well appointed log house, at 1900m above
MSL.

As the trek was
to start by 9 in the morning, we had enough time to pay a visit to the
beautiful villages of Vattavada and Koviloor, which falls the northern border
of Pampaadumchola National Park.

The morning light played magic on the greenery
of carrot and potato fields and the beauty is something beyond description. Had
a quick break fast – previous night’s left over – and got geared for the trek.

The road from Berijam to Top station is
believed to have been built as early as on 1925, but wasn’t of much use for
long. British had their army camps at Berijam, close to Kodaikanal, in early
1900s itself. Japanese invasion was suspected, during the Second World War in
1942, and the need for a track to evacuate British soldiers from Berijam,
arose. As there was proper road from Top station to Cochin Port, from where an
escape is easy, this track was rebuilt, to connect Berijam camp with Top
station, and named it ‘The Escape Road’, aptly. After the war, the road
continued to be in use, without proper maintenance, till 1990, and was deprived
of vehicular traffic there after. Vandaravu is the most elevated part of the track,
at about 2500m above MSL, where the track crosses inter state border.

Weather wasn’t
favorable and it rained almost along the entire 13 km trek from Pampadumchola
to Vandaravu. The initial part went along lesser gradient and the trek was
easy, if not for the abundance of leach species, enjoying the best part of the
year. The tarmac was still there, though over growth had thinned the lane. In
half an hour we were at a position exactly above our night stay and could spot
the log house, in the valley. Half a km hike, further, the beautiful villages
of Vattavada and Koviloor, opened up as a distant view.

The track
condition worsened thereafter and at places over growth had eaten it up
entirely.

Pachyderm presence was evident from the track and Bison we found were
pretty bold.

Fallen trees across the track were aplenty and had to clear it to
proceed.

The good old milestone by the track side read it is 33 miles to
Kodaikanal, indicating the closeness to Vandaravu and the hike went steeper,
obviously.

At the fifteenth or so hairpin curve along the track, the peak of
Vandaravu, came into sight. The high altitude grass land under the thin veil of
mist, was a sight indeed and people brought out their cameras, daring the
downpour.

Two more curves
ahead, could spot the wireless station of Vandaravu, and the rain soaked lot
longed for a cup of steaming hot decoction, which, Mr.Joy, the wireless
operator, took care of.

Mr.Joy (extreme left) with the team

A bison appeared from the adjoining woods, roamed
around grazing and retired, heeding a peer at us. A watch tower about a Km
ahead, where the track crosses to Tamil Nadu, was irresistible, and the
downpour strengthened as we were atop, limiting vision.

It was half past three then and as we were
walking back to the wireless station, doubt arose whether we had enough time to
trek back before dusk, with added woe of heavy downpour. And at the wireless
station of Vandaravu, we found Mr.Joy, busy, preparing porridge for our dinner.

11 comments:

Thanks for another nice report Shinu, it's good to see that this was an adventure without any problems occurring. It reminded me of my visit to Koviloor and Top Station earlier this year. Do you know if it's possible to continue walking along the remains of the high road and reach Kodiakanal, or at least reach Poondi and take a bus or jeep to Kodai?

halo shinu sir, my name is deepu and my home town is piravom. i was searching for this route, your travelogue is beautiful and nice description. now you just try the following routes.1, poringalkuthu- parambikkulam. there is a road leading poringalkuth to parambikkulam through forest. once i tried this route with my friends with the help of some forest officials in vazhachal division but failed due to heavy rain and dropped the journey.2, kappayam- the extreme end of edamalayar, you mentioned in your earlier post,from here there is a possibility of trekking to malakkappara near sholayar. thanks. waiting for your next blog.

Dear ShinuYour blogposts are much more useful than kerala tourism webpage!!. I would recomend you to have a fulfledged website and make commercial use of it. None can value the effort made by you to propogate this detailed exposition. My Hearty congrats and Best Wishes!!!

Dear shinu sir, thank you for a great experience sharing. Could you please let me know how you could get to this trek (to vandaravu ) ? I tried to get info from kerla tourism info centre but they dn't know. So how should I plan and what all should I do for this trek?