Atlantic Emerald

Wild oysters harvested in the North River by a guy named Clammerhead (aka David Cessna) from bottomland rich in a species of blue navicule alga that tints the oysters’ gills celadon in winter (when the algae is most active). This is the same alga that turns France’s famed Marenne oysters verte and gives them a deep, rich nuttiness. There, it’s a culinary event. Here, it’s traditionally been a commercial disaster, but Clammerhead and marine biologist Niels Lindgren are trying to change that by educating the oyster public. If you see these, snap them up.

Spectacular. These appear only in winter, but they are firm, salty, and that algae imparts a unique deliciousness that’s hard to describe. Cultured butter, maybe? Cream of watercress soup? After having these, I’ll never look at green-gilled oysters the same again.