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Anyone charmed by Nora Ephron will understand why she was so charmed by Orso, sister restaurant to Joe Allen, the more famous theater haunt across the street. “My idea of a perfect night,” she once wrote, “is a good play and dinner at Orso.” The exterior is unassuming, but the intimate dining room is one of the coziest in New York, with warm light reflected in the blush-pink marble floor in the foyer and the blonde parquet in the dining room, plus golden-hued walls hung with good art. It’s a place for grown-ups, whether you are one or are being taken to the theater by your parents. And it feels authentically Italian, not just because of how straightforward and delicious the food is — crusty, squishy bread with complimentary white bean dip; perfectly al dente rigatoni with meat sauce and crumbled Parmesan; grilled lamb chops with roasted potatoes (all served on beautiful painted terra-cotta dinnerware) — but also because it doesn’t take itself too seriously, despite being something of a celebrity gathering place. You get the sense that the exceptionally gracious and capable staff members, many of whom have made careers there, have seen it all before. — Hannah Goldfield