“It must have come out at a time when mayonnaise had not yet been invented. All of the recipes call for whipped butter, perfumed or flavored with the sorts of spices you might add to mayo,” Dufour says. “I think I stole it from an antiques store. I found it in the drawer of a dresser that I quite liked. I don’t even recall having the bad intention of stealing it. Maybe the book stole me.”