Have I installed new soil pipe branch too high??

Good evening
I would appreciate any advice as I am a bit worried.
I have just installed a new soil stack and joined to drains. All ok
there. I have made a hole into a first floor room and installed a spur
from the soil stack ready for a bathroom conversion.
The thing I am worried about is whether I have installed the junction
too high for any new toilet as the pipe coming into the house is about
190-200mm from the floor (bottom edge of 110ml pipe).
Could any one please tell me if this will be ok or have I made a
rather large mess because obviously, the waste cannot flow uphill and
I didn't know if there were any toilets with the waste pipe exit
higher than this.
I thought I had covered all the bases and evrything went seemingly
well. I will be gutted if I have to re-do it.
Many thanks
Chris

Hmm, first buy your bog. You will have to look around. What's
so hard about shortening the stack (have you used push-fit)?
You could always mount the lavatory bowl on a block of
something, I suppose, as long as the overall height remained
reasonable.
You'd better prepare for a lot of snotty comments from the
bloody pen-pushing brigade, too.
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and if you haven't yet bought your toilet pan, how about going for a
wall-hung one?
Just a thought, but that would allow you a subtle height adjustment...
On Thu, 3 Jul 2003 11:34:01 -0400, "jerrybuilt "

However, toilet pans are the height there are for very good ergonomic
reasons.
3" higher could be quite uncomfortable for someone with even average leg
lengths, never mind a child.
Its my guess that if you look at the install instructions for any make of
toilet pan they will specify more or less the same outlet height.

Thanks all for your prompt replies
I have used push fit, it just means having to make the hole bigger and
lowering the branch.....does anyone know what the best thing would be
to fill the void in a solid 9 inch brick wall?? I have been thinking
of expanding foam..but the hole will probably be too big.
I'm going to bed to cry now....I guess this how we all learn..
Many thanks
Chris :)

Oh well !!! If yea didnea make mistakes you wouldnea learn anything. :-))
Filling the hole shouldn't be a big problem Chris, with that size pipe going
through it. Just fill most of the void up with the stuff you took out and
fill over the surfaces with some sand and cement mix. Well that's what
everybody else does, don't they ?
For a bit of information, you need at least 40mm drop from the outlet of the
WC to the bend outside to take solid waste away properly. The standard in
"P" Trap WC outlet height is around, very close to, 120mm from the floor,
but they do sell adjustable connectors to take up any slight differences, so
don't panic.
Sleep it off. You'll feel better in the morning. :-))

You could always raise the floor in the bathroom by 70mm. This could be
useful for flush mounting shower trays and running concealed pipes if the
step into the room isn't a problem (i.e. there's already a step or change of
level). Just a thought, anyway. It's almost certainly quicker to redo the
hole, though, particularly if you've got spare matching bricks.
Christian.

spur
junction
about
and
Surely when you applied for planning permission you were told that the
soil stack has to be inside, so any changes in branch off will be
easy?
I think you will find that lower is better in this case, 170mm to the
centre of the pipe from the floor is the maximum for an average
toilet, and that is only if the toilet is right next to where the pipe
comes in, if on the other side of the room then it should be lower to
ensure a cleansing flow of the pipe.
MrCheerful

I know some have an inside stack - but who would want it in the
dinning room just as you were at lunch.We have a friend with one
inside and you can hear if it is solid or liquid going down - no
thanks!

Get your bog before you re-position the branch! Temporarily
hook up the waste to the trap with a pan connector before you
brick up. If it's a solid wall the mortar is very soft, right?
So you can cut bricks out by raking out the mortar, do any
shaping necessary, and put them back. Use new ones inside if
you're a bit short of originals for the outside, and use the
inside ones outside to match. Ram ordinary mortar in around
the pipe with a bit of stick or something to seal it.
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