I may not hear you from down here, but I'll keep an eye out for blue lights in the sky to the NNW 😉 Surprised that this is really your first RC attempt 😲 After all the great help you have given us I'm sure you can rely on assistance with your RC installation! 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Robbob, Good tip! 👍 Is that the Trainer connector you mean? Will this then also work with the HT6? Since it has 2 sticks =4, two pots =2, four switches =4, Sum 10! Would be useful to have the extra switches for lights and sounds etc. Doug 😎 Update: just looked at the cable, connector looks like the Trainer plug😊 Will investigate further and report in separate thread.

Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Chris, no you don't need 70A wire! 😊 That might be horribly thick and stiff for a scale boat. You need wire the same size as probably on both your motor and battery. Same the 'standard' wiring in cars. Available I suppose at Halfords and any car diy shop. WHAT YOU DO NEED IS A 15 OR 20 Amp FUSE TO PROTECT THE WIRING IF THE MOTOR STALLS (PROP GETS BLOCKED) 😡 If your ESC has a BEC supply for the RX put the fuse in the positive motor lead, probably red or yellow. If not, i.e. you have a separate battery supply, put the fuse in the positive lead from drive battery to ESC. Then at least the RX will still work and maybe you can see from shore if it still responds; e.g. by switching on lights or some other visible function. With twin or more props fusing the motor wire itself can sometimes help get the boat home on a remaining engine. Somewhere in the Electrical stuff blog is a long discussion on the subject! Have a look here https://model-boats.com/forum/electrical-related/28332 "What type of wire?" Happy sailing 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: Almost forgot, if you have a brushless motor you have no choice but to put the fuse in the positive wire from battery to ESC! Brushless ain't got no positive!

Hi RHBaker What kind of ESCs are you using? Doug I would not use both BEC units even with your diode in place. Most manufacturers advise disconnecting one positive lead completely. Also if the ESC has a switch both ESCs must be switched on as I have damaged one of mine because it was switched off but still appeared to work. Result was similar to RH Bakers problem. I suspect the Mosfet gate voltage was exceeded without the internal power to the ESC, causing it to go permanently on. I also believe this may have been developed over time as I am sure this instance was not the first. The ESC still worked OK in reverse but went full on as soon as the stick on the tx was put forward. Further checking also revealed the internal BEC was dead. Sealed unit so no chance to repair. Both As Doug says a separate power supply is a better option if you have room, and modern switched mode supplies are freely available and will deliver much greater power for all your servos, lights etc Dave

Hi Brimarboat Just looked on The Billing website http://billingboats-direct.com/ and this model is advertised as: "All fittings included (e.g. position lights, anchors, life-belt, etc.)" They do sell all the electrical bits like motors, couplings, servos and Rc but the fittings should have been in the kit. Not sure of the scale but the measurements suggest 1:32 so you should be able to source suitable fittings. If it was a local shop I would be asking them to provide the missing parts Dave

Found this on the internet, hope this will help you . From early times, to avoid collisions, ships underway or at anchor by night carried at least a single lantern showing a white light. There seems to have been no fixed rule about the use of lights until 1824 when two white lights were required to be shown in ships navigating the canals of the Netherlands and Belgium. In 1845 coloured lights were authorized for this purpose. In that same year HMS COMET carried out experiments at Pithead with red, green and white lights, and 1847 Admiralty regulations called for all British steamships to be fitted in the approved manner. No such requirement existed for sailing vessels. After 1850 all steamships in the busy fairways of the open seas were required to show coloured lights by night. The colours red and green had been selected as the least likely to be confused. The French in 1863 instituted a practice of making the lights visible on the beam as well as ahead. This led to international agreement on the use of sidelights, visible through definite arcs. About the same time sailing vessels were first required to show red and green sidelights. Trinity House, the British pilotage authority, had ruled in 1840 that two steamships steaming toward each other by night, to avoid collision were each to alter course to starboard, thereby keeping the other ship on the port hand. The red light, indicating danger, was assigned to the side to be steered away from. A series of conference of the principal maritime nations has produced the International Regulations for Preventing collision at Sea, in which are embodied directions regarding lights, steering and sailing rules. In the most recent revision (1953) these are greatly clarified, and are made applicable to aircraft taxi-ing or alighting on water in ocean areas. Further revisions, drafted at the 1960 Safety of Life at Sea conference, will soon be brought into effect

Hi Nick, As basic as this sounds I got a switch that you plug into a channel on the rx to control lights or just about anything remotely. I've also got a sound module with 2 speakers from eBay that you load the sound onto a microSD card which I find amusing, this also plugs into a rx channel. Animatronics is new to me, I'm learning slowly, my 1/4 scale Donald Campbell should scare a few people. I'm also dabbling with 3D printed linear actuators at the moment, I'm up to 130mm of travel from a normal servo. Ohhh the entertainment 🤗 Cheers Wayne

Hi Nick You are using your Tamco and it is working? I suggest you try a spare servo in each channel and identify which Tx sticks work which channel on the Rx. The servo should follow the stick movement in both directions. If you do not have a separate Rx battery you can use your ESC, you dont need a motor connected but do tape up the wires to prevent a short. Once you have identified the throttle output channel you can plug your esc into this channel. Plug the test servo into the rudder channel and make sure it is working Your throttle (ESC) stick does need to be in the centre position. If you are using a horizontal stick then I add the following procedure or follow my original guide. When you say rudder stick do you mean the horizontal stick movement on the tx? If so it is this stick you need to move to set the ESC. Say full right when the solid green light is on then full left when the red light is on. Stick back to centre and both red green should be solid. With the Tx switched on the bind process is automatic once you press the small button after switch on and whilst the red/green leds are flashing. Once pressed the green led should be solid until you move the stick fully when the red led lights and you move the stick in the opposite direction and return to centre when the red green lights show solid. Dave

Looks like this is a 3 channel set. The battery can be plugged into any port with 1,2 and 3 used for servos etc.. When binding, the top port is used for the binding plug and the battery plugged into any other port. The lights should be flashing on the rx with the bind plug connected and go solid when the Tx is in bind mode and the process has completed. Normal use with an ESC and servo is port 1 and 2. Dave