hmmm how about after every second or third race meeting - that is what we do but then we don't run the R31 setup on the rear either

As Mike said...... but for me before every meeting just to make sure, as it sits around doing nothing between race meetings.

I would have thought that getting the bleed nipples to the highest point would be at the top of the list for fitting to make sure the system could bleed. Not having to run a handbrake, this does make any rear conversion easy for me, though the saab rotors and 2 pot calipers on the rear were pretty close to a bolt on, but no handbrake to worry about.

My 240 isn't a serious track car, just a weekend hack! My car sits for weeks sometimes with no use but the pedal is always firm and the brakes never have an issue. If I were to make a custom bracket, then the bleed nipple could be placed in the ultimate spot but I have to make do with what I have...a PITA every time I have to bleed the rear brakes..

On the same topic i put new kits in the rears and a Brand new 1 inch Master Cylinder but i still only have half a pedal. The Nipples *giggles* are on the bottom on the R31's and i suspect that the air is not getting out. With the old 7/8 it would pump up good but then lose all pressure.

Wish someone would have said " maybe it's the adjustment on the pedal in the cabin" problem solved

Hey guys,
I was under the impression that the position of the calipers would affect the balance of the car (brake bias) under braking. Therefore is there some way of determining the ideal position of the caliper from a braking perspective as opposed to a ideal handbrake cable perspective?

I'm not sure where you got that impression from, since if that were the case, then positioning of the caliper around the brake rotor would change it's effective clamping force, which it does not. Put the caliper hanging straight down (6 o'clock), and the clamping force will be the same as if it were straight up (12 o'clock), this means that braking ability of that wheel/tire/corner of the car is not affected by caliper position, which can't affect brake bias.

Now, there is some thought on overall weight balance of the car. Hanging the caliper behind the rear wheel, will place more weight distributed to the rear than if they were positioned on the same wheel towards the front, but we are talking like ounces of difference, that 99% of us would never really need to worry about.

There is also some thought of water shedding. In a wet condition, water, if it comes in contact with the brake rotor will be flung to the outside of the rotor, and a majority will usually collect near the bottom, even when spinning. This will then get flung from the rotor behind the wheel, due to rotation of the rotor and gravity's effect on objects with mass. Getting the caliper and brake pads out of this area, will reduce how much water will get on the calipers and more importantly onto the pads, that could affect the braking ability of that wheel. Again, this is something that most of us will never really need to worry about.

I'm having trouble locating someone to weld up the holes on the brackets, hone out the centre to 86mm and cut them to sit between 9 and 11 o'clock for my Zed. Preferably on the Northside of Brisbane, or I could probably post them to someone who has done this mod or a workshop they used. Roughly how much does this rear bracket fab cost?

Scoota, could you take some pics of your rear brake setup please. In particular the orientation of the caliper and the handbrake setup. I finally got around to getting those brackets done. Found a great bloke locally with a C&C mill, made it a breeze.

Perfect mate. I've done one side and I must say I think the next will be much easier after working out the grinded angle bits on the strut so the bracket sits flush. I'll take some good photos to post here to explain this part better for the other guys heading into this mod.