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Automag Valve On/Off Reference

Over the years I have had lots of people ask me the difference between Automag valve on/off assemblies. I thought since I had several On/Offs that I should document them and make a thread for others to reference. Consider this like a Wikipedia thread and add any information that I missed or forget to include. Thanks

Awesome job! I couldn't identify the classic valve on/off in your first picture because the ones I use have the "new" style top as mentioned in the Reactor on/off advertisement (and shown on the Centerflag on/off). Though I have come across one with those little cross hatches in the top before.

Great pictures guys. I still plan to write some text for the first post so there is more information out there. Keep posting pictures of any on/off that hasn't been shown yet so we get the best overall archive of Automag on/offs.

djinnform: That is just a polished or machined stock RT on/off. I don't think you need to change the orings as they are shown, but you need to make sure your bottom 2 orings are still good. Also that on/off will not work very well in a classic valve if that is what you are trying to do. Does it leak? Looks like those flat sides would maybe cause some leaking issues.

Different companies trying to "perfect" the mouse trap when the best mouse trap was already made by Tom. Mainly each variation was trying to lighten the trigger and allow you to shoot faster with no shoot-down which was the biggest "issue" with classic mags back in the day. Also most mags were still on CO2 so the less liquid down the powertube the better. The smoking barrel and frozen powertube oring were also some concerns these on/offs were trying to help "fix" but a lot of them actually made the problems worse unless you switched to Nitro or compressed air.

This is a fascinating thread. Can anyone explain how some of these small design changes make a functional difference? For example, the Centerflag Hyperframe has it's mid-piece cut in half, compared to the Classic. Why? What would that accomplish?

Also, why did the Classic AGD top change from a crown with points to a crown with a halo?

This is a fascinating thread. Can anyone explain how some of these small design changes make a functional difference? For example, the Centerflag Hyperframe has it's mid-piece cut in half, compared to the Classic. Why? What would that accomplish?

Also, why did the Classic AGD top change from a crown with points to a crown with a halo?

better flow i think. same reason you see so many variations...apparently they did improve upon the first classic on/off top. also, i believe the centerflag hyper on/off was specific for the hyper frame.

Also, why did the Classic AGD top change from a crown with points to a crown with a halo?

The new classic on-off top is the same top and bottom so you can't put it in upside-down. Installing the top in the wrong orientation was one of the biggest problems with new users (and some experienced users).

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

There are a few in this thread I don't recall seeing. Which is a shock as I removed a metric s ton of them from guns.

djinnform - I will have to say I have never seen that one in post #25 the one in post #15 was an AGD unit. The aluminum ones were machine to a slight difference tolerances/specs.

If it is not in the gun it was originally installed it, it will have issues. There is also a factory RT/EMAG top that has a small divit milled into it for the oring to sit. Again will cause issues if not in the right gun.