Restaurant Guide 2013: Evoe

[IBERIAN BITES] There’s something
about Evoe’s location—which used to be a tapas restaurant, and then
wasn’t, but kind of is again—I’ve always loved. It feels hidden, as
though its tall windows are a one-way mirror looking out over the
vibrant stretch of Hawthorne just east of the Bagdad Theater. On our
visit, a busker sat outside with a sign asking for weed. Inside, Evoe is
relaxed, despite the bustle of the adjoining Pastaworks market, which
provides many of the restaurant’s ingredients. Revered chef Kevin Gibson
hands over meticulous plates: charcuterie and cheese boards big enough
to sate the starting five of a coed rec basketball team; a meaty sardine
and fennel sandwich; a plate of fresh peaches, lemony glacier lettuce
and crispy speck I still daydream about whenever I hear the word
“salad.” Evoe’s lack of pretension helps. This is a simple Spanish
sandwich shop helmed by one of Portland’s most experienced chefs.
Doesn’t that just sound awesome?

Ideal Meal: A platter of
padron peppers loosely resembling a culinary game of Russian roulette;
Little Bo Peep, a lamb meatball sandwich; that glorious peach salad; any
Spanish red wine your server recommends. For a party of four or more,
add a meat board.

Best Deal: Seriously, the meat and cheese plates are huge and high quality.

Pro-Tips: While the sandwiches are terrific, definitely spend some time on the small plates.