Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Do what you gotta do to get the pads on. Clamp it down, open the bleeder valve, whatever. Just after you put the caliper back on the spindle, just make sure you bleed it well. Then any "backflushed" fluid will be long gone. Brake fluid is fairly cheap, might as well just flush it through.

From what you describe, it sounds like your clutch is not disengaging all the way, and that your tranny shafts are "spinning" as if your clutch is out of adjustment. You need to double check to make sure that your clutch is fully disengaged BEFORE the pedal is all the way to the floor. ALSO, some Ranger trannies had synchronizer problems in the manual, requiring relacement. Since I don't know what year Splash you have, or what engine, etc., I can't help you any more.

i have a 99 5spd 4cyl sport super cab..30k on it having trouble shifting into 1st and 2nd..a recent post stated that there had been some trouble with the synchro in the manual trans..i was wondering if anyone had any more info on that issue..

ISSUESome vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4synchronizer.

ACTIONReplace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serialnumber is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and isgreater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference theappropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.

NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW ANDTHE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ONTHE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.

1. Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual. 2. Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual. 3. Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly. 4. Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary. 5. Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual. 6. Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.

NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GOAWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THEGEAR CONE.

i ended up opening the bleeder valve to get the caliper open, and i'm going to have it pressure bled by a shop since i don't trust myself to do as good a job as brake specialists could do on the bleeding. now, two days after replacing the pads, i developed a squeak on one side. is this just the new pads adjusting to the rotor (i didn't have them turned), and will it go away on its own, or should i put some more "disc brake quiet" goop on the back of the pads?

The disc brake quiet spray was used on all brake jobs just to keep the customer happy. The fact of the matter is that as long as they perform well, and aren't vibrating on use, a squeak is nothing more than annoying. More than likely the rotor is a fraction out of round or just some residual crud on the rotors. Thats why you should try not to touch the rotors and get oil on them, because then the brake dust can stick and cause uneven wear to a small degree, and thus a small squeak.

Bleeding brakes is a fairly simple matter, but it just takes two people. One to open and close the valve, another to press the brake pedal. With the valve open, brake fluid will spray out with force on the pedal. Just close before the fluid stops. It's quite simple to do once you see it done, and it's fun to try to get the other tech sprayed with fluid, especially if it's first thing in the morning...

The only thing to check for is spongy brakes, that indicates a air bubble in the lines. You can test under hard braking to see which corner it's on, or just bleed them systematically. Over time brake fluid goes bad, so it's recommended to get fresh fluid into everything. Just keep a close watch (feel) on the squeaky brake linings. What material did you go with? It could go away, especially with slow even braking over the next few weeks.

I am wondering if anyone has experiencing any problems with their CD player? Ours has slowly but consistently been continuing to try to play even though the CD has been ejected from the CD player. At first it only did it sometimes, now you can't insert a CD or play the radio due to the whirring noise of the CD player trying to eject/play a CD even though there is no CD in it.Thanks for the help! D.Anne

We have a 94 Ranger XLT that has begun acting as if it doesn't want to always start. The battery is fairly new. I know little about vehicles and have no idea why there are times that it takes me a couple minutes to start the truck, but it seems to start easily at others. Also,there is a loud clinking noise--it almost sounds like something metal in the engine or exhause rattling, knocking or pinging. Sorry, I'm so poor at describing the sounds. ANY HELP OUT THERE? Thanks, Anne

4safetysake---> I don't know about the CD Player too much as I yanked my 93 cassette player on or about 1995. Had it stolen twice, and now am on my third head unit(cd/player). While Ford offers some pretty decent stereo's in their vehicles, they are by no means top notch. The aftermarket can provide an cheap alternative, that may be worth looking into. For a little under or over a hundred dollars you should have a nice CD player installed. You don't have to go too fancy, as the stock speakers are probably somewhat worn and won't be able to handle alot of power.

Other alternatives would be to try a CD cleaner disc or try spraying some compressed air into the unit to clear up any built up grime. This is not a sure fix, but it may help out.

calamityjane--->176000 Km (or just over 100,000 miles) is pretty good milage. My '93 is up to 139,500 miles (or ~224455 Km) but that is with a 2.3l 4 cylinder.

Just about any tube or RTV Silicon will do, I prefer Permatex Ultra Black Hi Temp RTV. And if you're a new owner of the vehicle, a new timing chain will only be good insurance at that point. Most chains should go 100,000 miles, but not always. Check your manual for an exact time to change it in milage. Replacing the timing chain could help eliminate any slack in the valve timing.

As far as the radiator, just depends on you. It shouldn't be required to pull, but sometimes that extra space is oh so handy to have. Besides the coolant mess, there should only be two brackets on either side of the radiator top, holding it in place.

Also I would recommend a Haynes or Chilton's service manual for your vehicle. One of these (or something equivalent) should be available in Canada, and they explain how to do just about everything to the vehicle. They even include step by step photos on most procedures, so it can be a big help on knowing what to do and when. Try picking one up, or at least read through one on the timing cover gasket and chain replacement. You'll swear by them afterwards.

You could have a catalytic converter that is coming apart; that could be the source of the rattle AND the hard-start (due to excessive back pressure to the engine).

A "TSB" (i.e. technical service bulletin) is a bulletin issued by the manufacturer for the DEALER SERVICE DEPT>This is authored to help the dealer repair specific problems of a vehicle. This may, or may not, lead to something more significant such as a formal "RECALL", which is basically forced upon the manufacturer by the government. TSB's I have found to be very helpful: they reveal UP TO DATE methods [and tell about revised parts...incuding PART NUMBERS of newly engineered parts] to repair sometimes difficult problems (that would otherwise NOT be revealed in a Haynes or Chilton manual). A recent TSB has helped me diagnose a major vibration problem in a nearly new Ranger, for example [The fix is to switch TO an aluminum driveshaft FROM the original tube of solid rust]. These TSB's can be downloaded, for a 1 year subscription fee for one vehicle, from www.alldata.com. Well worth the 25 bucks. Each addition vehicle costs another 15 bucks...a steal, IMHO, considering the info available. Good luck.

I am finally getting Ford to put the new 4inch alloy driveshaft on my 2000 4x4 Ranger XLT 4.0 (after an extended wait). I have notice that a lot of NEW Rangers are being equipped with alloy tubes; this might be telling us something.. I will let you know how this works out in eliminating the infamous "klunk" and vibration problem. Also, I am going to try the new 5-20W oil in my Ranger (as per the Ford TSB specs). I also will let you all know if this helps my mileage a bit. I hope to maybe get the truck up to about 20-20.5 MPG highway at 60-65 MPH, but this may be unrealistic.

This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.

ISSUE

Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or whencoming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating astick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.

ACTION

Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles builtbefore 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state. 2. Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle. 3. Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark. This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft. 4. Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft). 5. Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. 6. Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA). 7. Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft). 8. Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.

Parts Block

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONESUPERSEDES: 01-9-6WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.

This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.

ISSUE

Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or whencoming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating astick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.

ACTION

Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles builtbefore 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state. 2. Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle. 3. Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark. This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft. 4. Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft). 5. Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. 6. Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA). 7. Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft). 8. Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.

Parts Block

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONESUPERSEDES: 01-9-6WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.

ACTIONAll 2001 and 2002 vehicles where SAE 5W-20 is specified should be serviced at the recommended oil change intervals using SAE 5W-20.This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy.

Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on thefollowing Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.

All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" or "Exception 2002 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE5W-20 motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.

Exception 2001 Vehicles

Exception 2002 Vehicles

NOTE IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.

The data I listed in the 2 previous posts is from "ALL DATA.COM" TSB's. I am just posting it to help educate others that may not have a subscription to this service. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR FORD DEALER FIRST BEFORE making a fluid SPEC CHANGE !! It is always possible that the above info could have been revised since its publication. Peace, all...

I've got a '93 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4.0 V6. While working under the vehicle, I noticed thatthe "bracket" that holds the left rear leaf spring to the frame is shattered due to rust. This is the rear bracket closest to the bumper.Are these brackets replaceable?? At what cost?? Anybody else have this problem? I can't win, I had a front wheel bearing go bad last week. With 117,000 miles the truck has been good... until now. HELP!

Lots of info there frey... Interesting that my 93 ranger with 2.3l is recommended to run 5-20. Just put in 5-30W castrol GTX for high milage. I have gone about half a tank on it, and it is a bit smoother and maybe a little more power (RPM's may have dropped a bit for certain speeds). but too soon to tell for gas milage. I doubt there would be much difference going to 5-20, but who knows until you try. Since I live in Texas and have 139,000 miles I figure the little extra viscosity rating would help keep my engine well covered.

swede, bearings just don't go bad, they fail over time. You need to repack them with grease, especially after any water crossings, escapades near sand, or after 5-10 thousands miles. The older they are, the more likely they are starting to score or wear.

As far as the bracket, I found a pretty neat website for cheap replacement body parts on vehicles. But I have it saved at work, I will let you know if I find anything on the bracket.

I'm considering purchasing a 2002 ranger, reg cab,short box,2.3L, 2wd, 5spd auto. I've seen 1 post concerning cooling system problems (hoses/radiators). Has anybody else seen this problem? Any other issues that I should be aware of? Also would appreciate feed-back as to what prices folks have paid for the vehicle I've described (with standard XLT package). Thanks much for your feed-back!!

I purchased a new 2001 Ranger last summer, a 4 cylinder 2.3 ltr 5 speed. On the day of delivery when I returned home, the truck had 28 miles on the odo and after sitting in the garage for about and hour, I noticed a large puddle of coolant under the truck, it appeared to be a loose hose which I tightend. By the time I'd reached 2000 miles, I was back at the dealer. The rear springs were squeaking and had to be replaced, the air bag light was on due to a faulty sensor and was replaced, the radiator had developed a leak due to "poor welding at some of the seams" and was replaced, they performed the "seat belt recall" and adjusted the tie rod ends because the steering wheel was off center. Everything seemed to be fine for the next several months until I hit 6000 miles. I was checking the oil level and noticed coolant in the oil , this along with the fact that the truck had started to ping under acceleration recently. Well, I'd had enough, I traded the truck in that day. That was my last Ford truck so I went to Dodge (first time owning a Dodge) and bought the new body style 2002 Ram 1500 SLT V8 with 5 speed manual transmission. The gas mileage isn't nearly as good (16.5 mpg vs. 23 mpg) but this truck is powerful and at 5500 miles, I have ZERO complaints and have not had to return to the dealer at all!!!!!

1994 Ranger XLT, 4.0 2x4, 5 spd (72,000 miles)5 minutes after I filled my tank with Chevron Regular unleaded gas, the engine light came on. It began jolting/jerking on the freeway at 60 miles. When I come to stop it stalls/dies sometimes.When truck is stopped and idling the light comes on for a while, then it goes off. Any suggestion please help. The truck still has the original spark plugs. I did re-tight the gas cap.

I would change those plugs, and fuel filters too. You may consider getting a fuel injection cleaner to help unclog any injectors. That would be a cheap way to help fix any bad fuel problems. After that it gets more expensive

While shopping for motorcycles I found an interesting site that gave lots of tips. One applied to cars and trucks too. It talked about filling up at a gas station right after the tanker truck fills up the stations tanks. By doing so, lots of dirt and grime gets mixed up and can make for a bad tank of gas. Their advice was to always go to the same place, and never right after such an event.

If all these symptoms started after a tank of gas, I would go get some premium gas in there to dilute the bad gas. Chevron is usually a good place to go, but I sounds like something funny was going on.

Hello Rangeredge, I have a 2000 4cyl 5 speed stick shift GMC Sonoma with the same type of noise. I am told that it is normal. I have a couple of documented complaints on file at the dealership and if it gives problems in the future I will attempt to get warranty repairs since it showed up during the warranty. Sounds like marbles rolling around.