How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Crags in Bad Kloof

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.

Minefield 6b+/22

Vays und Meenz 7a/24

Streef Bogananoff 7a/24

Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28

Brandenburg Gate 6b/21

Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27

Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade

Against the Grain 7c/28

Jabulani 7c/28

Big Bag Voodoo 5/17

Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009

The Laundry

The Laundry Route List

Bad Kloof Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Super Blue

24/7a

5 Bolts

FA. J Orton. 1998.

2.

Stay Soft

26/7b

5 Bolts

FA. S Downing. 1998.

3.

<open project>

4.

<open project>

Lion Said

Lion Said Route List

Bad Kloof From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Short Cut

21/6b+

3 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

2.

Short, Sharp, Shock!

23/6c+

3 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

3.

Come Short

25/7a+

3 Bolts

BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.

4.

Hello Aloe

15/ 5b

13 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

5.

Devil Speak

21/6b+

9 Bolts

FA. K Schumann. 1998.

Peanut Gallery

Peanut Gallery Route List

Bad Kloof Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Good Day for Basketball

22/6c

4 Bolts

FA. R Holwill. 1997.

2.

Finding Ningo

27/7b+

5 Bolts

FA. C Martinengo. 2004.

3.

<unknown>

31/8a+

FA. <unknown>

Pipeline

Pipeline Route List

Bad Kloof There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

<Open Project>

2.

<Open Project>

3.

<Open Project>

4.

<Open Project>

Playground

Playground Route List

Bad Kloof Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Jungle Gym Junkie

5c/18

4 Bolts

FA. M Gowans. 1993.

2.

Jungle Jim

6a/19

4 Bolts

FA. C Curson. 1995.

3.

See Saw

4/15

3 Bolts

FA. C Curson. 1995.

4.

The Jester

6c+/24

3 Bolts

FA. R Suter. 1992.

5.

Party-on Wayne

7a/25

3 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1993.

6.

Jus Klup Ut

7b+/27

3 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1993.

7.

Powerplay

7a+/25

4 Bolts

FA. E February. 1995.

8.

Fun in the Sun

6b+/22

3 Bolts

FA. M Gowans. 1994.

The Rage

The Rage Route List

Bad Kloof Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Bullet in the Head

5 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1995.

This route is manufactured.

Sloth

South Park

South Park Route List

Bad Kloof The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Cartman Gets an Anal Probe

7a/25

7 Bolts

FA. C Bruton. 1999.

2.

Who Killed Kenny?

7b+/27

5 Bolts

FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

15.

Psycho Ranger

20/6b

13 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Love Machine

6b+/22

6 Bolts

FA. P McCann. 1998.

2.

Stealin'

6b+/22

9 Bolts

FA. G Hart. 1993.

3.

Digital Bitch

7b/26

6 Bolts

FA. P Becker. 1993.

4.

Demons and Wizards

7b+/28

5 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1994.

5.

Easy Living

7b/26

5 Bolts

FA. D Pothier. 1993.

6.

November Afternoon

6c/23

5 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1993.

Top jug broken off Jan 2013

7.

July Morning

6b+/22

5 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1993.

8.

Firefly

6a/19

6 Bolts

FA. P McCann. 1998.

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)