Gluten-Free Eating and Dining in Paris

I’ve happily updated this post and list regularly over the years, as Paris has become a much more gluten-free friendly destination. For those who need to avoid gluten, France may present a bit of a challenge than other countries. But gluten-free eating has gained more visibility and in Paris, it’s not the obstacle that it once was. That’s not to say you can easily eat anywhere, but even supermarkets are carrying gluten-free products, and natural food shops offer fresh gluten-free pastries and breads and have aisles of gluten-free products.

Here are a few helpful hints that will help you navigate French restaurants and dining in Paris, how to deal with waiters, and where you can find gluten-free products and foods in Paris, including gluten-free restaurants and wonderful French pastry shops and bakeries that are 100% gluten-free.

-Familiarize yourself with the natural foods shops in Paris.

Well-known ones include Naturalia, La Vie Claire and Biocoop. Many carry gluten-free products and grains. Natural food stores here are some of my favorite places to shop anyways since they carry many regional, organic, and unusual products which are hard-to-find elsewhere in France. Biocoop is perhaps the most varied, although Naturalia has more shops. Most of the supermarkets are also now carrying gluten-free products, too.

-Check out some of the gluten-free restaurants in Paris.

Noglu is a completely gluten-free restaurant and épicerie. You can read my write-up of Noglu. They have a takeaway shop just across from their restaurant.

Café Pinson in has several cafés in that usually offers gluten-free options.

Tugalik offers gluten-free choices, which are specifically noted on the menu.

A reader alerted me to Le Potager du Marais, and organic vegetarian restaurant which she noted had clearly marked gluten-free dishes and desserts on offer as well.

Gentle Gourmet is a vegan restaurant, located just next to the canal in the Bastille.

Breizh Café offers buckwheat galettes, made in the traditional way with only buckwheat flour.

Cojean is a chain of small “snack-style” restaurants that has gluten-free options.

-Learn the terms for various grains and other French products.

Check an online French food dictionary here, and I recommend a good French Menu Translator. Although there are plenty of people in Paris who speak English, many of the grains and other terms may be unfamiliar to them.

-Check out a gluten-free French bakery.

Helmut Newcake (28 rue Vignon) is a gluten-free bakery (photo, above), everything sans gluten! There is also a take-out as well.

Noglu Épicerie (16, Passage des Panoramas, 2nd, as well as other locations, including in the Marais) French pastries and takeaway food.

Some bakeries that aren’t gluten-free, but carry gluten-free bread (made in a shop with regular bread is made) are Panifica, L’Autre Boulange, and Eric Kayser. (Certain branches may or may not carry them.)

Take with you some gluten-free energy bars and what-not to carry around and hold you over in case you get hungry and all that’s open are bakeries. They may seem icky to you, but when you’re starving in an airport or train station, where the pickings may be slim, you’ll be thankful.

-Rent an apartment so you can prepare meals yourself.

Sure it’s nice to go out to eat. But it’s equally fun to shop in a Parisian supermarket or outdoor market. It’s also a great way to sample lots of the cheeses, make big salads, sample the fruits, and enjoy other specialties that you can’t always get in restaurants. Check my post: Renting an Apartment in Paris.

Look for signs for traiteurs, gloriously-stocked take-out shops. And keep an eye for things that are de maison, or a similar term containing the word ‘maison‘, that means they’re made on-premises and should know exactly what’s in them and how they’re prepared. And don’t be afraid to ask questions—French people love to talk about food!

-Print out a small card that’s easy-to-read, in French, which very briefly explains your condition.

Servers in France are much busier than their American counterparts since they don’t have busboys, runners, etc…and dining rooms are short-staffed. So make their job easier since they may not have time to play charades with you, and blow you off. Don’t take it personally; just realize they’re busy. Keep it brief so they’re more likely to read it. You can find cards to print out in French here.

-Be a regular at the same restaurants.

Although it’s tempting to try lots of places, most Parisians themselves go to the same restaurants over and over. (They call their favorite their cantine.) Make a nearby restaurant your cantine where the staff knows you. Even if you’re in town for just a week, by your second visit, you’ll be recognized and they’ll look more kindly on you and be much more accommodating.

Also if you dine during slower times, outside of prime dining times (lunch 12:30 to 2pm and dinner 8pm to 11pm) the waiters and cooks will be under less stress and able to look after you better. If dining in a more upscale restaurant, tell them your needs when you make the reservation so they have time to prepare and it’s not such a big surprise.

-Find gluten-free bread in Paris.

Although there are no dedicated gluten-free bakeries that I know of in Paris, Biocoop sells fresh gluten-free bread (although it’s stored on the same shelves, next to the regular bread) as do Naturalia store. Biocoop also has some freshly made gluten-free cakes as well. As mentioned above, both shops have gluten-free sections in their stores that sell a variety of snacks and other foods.

L’Autre Boulange has gluten-free breads, although they are made in a bakery that produces regular bread as well. And Chambelland is a completely gluten-free bakery.

-Apologize for being a bother.

This is the hardest thing for Americans who are used to the ‘Customer Is King’ concept. In France, you may find people less accommodating than you’re used to as food allergies don’t have the same prominence in France as they have elsewhere. Demanding something or causing a scene won’t work to your advantage in France. Don’t demand a restaurant serve you gluten-free food, but instead, apologize for being a bother – then make your request nicely. They’re likely to take better care of you if they are on your side. French people can be very helpful: You just need to make them want to be. As in many places in America, people don’t understand how careful you must be.

If for some reason they’re not taking you seriously, or you’re concerned that you may be getting something with gluten in it, it’s okay to leave something on your plate, or leave before ordering. Apologize for leaving, thank them, and leave. If you make a scene, you’ll regret it. Don’t let it ruin your vacation. Just move on.

If you’ve already ordered or been served, nicely ask the waiter if you have any concerns without being accusatory. If you’re unsure, just drink the wine and ask for a plate of cheese or a salad with oil and vinegar à parte, on the side, since bottled dressings (which are used frequently) often have wheat starch added.

In France, it’s very rare to return food or to change food once it’s brought to the table (or even after it’s been ordered) so you’re likely to be charged for the meal even if you don’t eat it or it’s not to your liking.

Once again, don’t let something minor ruin your vacation. Imagine if a non-English speaking person came to America with a strict dietary need that was not well-known and the waiter didn’t speak their language or understand.

And if you’re frustrated, take another sip of wine and let out an exasperated *sigh*…you’ll fit right in amongst the Parisians!

19 comments

All good advice, I think. Also, I can think of one reason to feel more confident eating-out in France than in the US: the French waiter likely has enough food knowledge to communicate intelligently about the food, and the food is actually being made from scratch on site.

In the US one often has to pay a lot for that kind of conversation. The last perky eighteen-year-old I queried at a not-inexpensive steak house in Boston didn’t know if the ribs were beef or pork.

Michelle

October 26, 2007 1:41pm

Thanks for writing about this, David. I am a Celiac and visited Paris a couple of years ago. I ate wonderfully well and never got sick while I was there (despite my merely passable high school French). Servers were wonderful and did not mind answering lots of questions.

One other tip, particularly for the economically-challenged traveler, is to grab some (gluten-free) meat, cheese, and veggies from a local market or grocery and you’ve got a picnic lunch. This is what I did for lunch every day I was there, and I hardly missed the bread.

CeliacChick: Thanks for the heads-up about that book. I added the link in the post. What great resources! I felt bad since I get asked that occasionally and never knew how to respond. Glad to help my fellow eaters.

wheatless: I think it depends on where you’re dining. It’s unfortunate that waiters in the US may not know so much about what’s going on in the kitchen (and they should!) but many restaurants in France use pre-made or convenience products as well and often don’t know if there’s wheat-starch lurking in there or not.

More reasons to eat locally, seasonally, and above all, fresh! : )

Michelle: Yes, shopping in France is a lot of fun, and more economical than dining out. Especially when there’s all these great cheeses and wines here. Oh, and chocolates too!

That’s good information, Kelly. I hope that restaurant is a success. There’s not much awareness of food allergies here. For example, my local health food store does stock gluten-free bread, but it shares space, unwrapped, with all the other loaves on the same wheat flour-dusted shelves! -dl

Mary Ann McGrath

May 3, 2009 11:01am

Hello David

I have been enjoying your website as I prepare for a visit to Paris in early Sept.

One of my things, as a recent Celiac and a bit of a foodie, is finding traditional foods that have always been gluten free. Things that come to mind Indian breads using chick pea flour, the rice noodles in Asian foods etc.

It is my understanding that galettes de ble noir (buckwheat crepes) – a traditional Breton food – are gluten free. Buckwheat is not actually a relative of wheat at all. However in recipe searches many receipes have added wheat.

I read with interest your review of the Breizh Cafe. If they are as traditional as they sound I suspect their galettes should be gluten free. I have tried emailing them without a response -is this something you could check. This might open up a whole new dining experience to gluten free diners.

Hi Mary Ann: Although they told me the galettes they make at Breizh Cafe are made with buckwheat flour only, they do use regular flour in their dessert crêpes, so there’s always a chance of cross-contamination. It’s best to just go in and ask. They’re very nice, and most of the dining room staff speak reasonable English.

I was very glad to find this post and the informative comments, too. My son and I are only 6 months into our gluten-free experience (gluten-free at home is a breeze), and French food seemed like it would be the most formidable challenge after an uncomfortable experience following a Mother’s Day brunch at a French-inspired fine dining restaurant in the US.

We love France and Paris, though we are only able to visit every 5-10 years or so. Hopefully by the next trip, the emerging gluten sensitivity research and awareness will be more commonly known in France, too.

alia

July 4, 2009 2:41am

thank you for the cards david!!! even though i speak french your cards were such a great idea – i am printing out a dozen so the waiter can take them back to the chef and i don’t have to worry.

thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

alia

toronto, canada

Senza Glutine

July 11, 2009 11:37pm

David,

What a great list! Thank you for pulling it all together. I lived in Paris from 1998-2000- two years before I found out about my celiac disease. I am preparing to go back for a weeklong visit with my husband and some friends next spring, so all this information will be most helpful.

A decade ago, my diet pretty much consisted of baguettes, panini, crepes, and tartes au citron. (I was a poor university student with three bakeries just outside my door.) I am glad to know that gluten free food does exist in Paris even if I ignored it while I was there.

Though now that I think about it, I do recall a particularly delicious lentil salad that was probably gluten free at a sweet little place called Les Deux Abeilles in the 7th. Any idea if they’re still around? They also had an amazing chocolat a l’ancien (it was like drinking a melted bar of chocolate- but in a good way).

Also, do you know if there are any restaurants in Paris that serve socca/farinata? I recently discovered this naturally GF phenomenon in NYC and am totally in love.

Thanks again!

p.s. Fortunately, I was able to experience the magic that is l’As du Fallafel on a fairly regular basis before I knew it was causing my body to attack itself… When I take my friends there, at least I’ll know exactly what I’m missing!

david

July 12, 2009 2:57am

Hi Senza: I don’t know any restaurants that serve socca, but Alaen at the Marché des Enfants Rouge (3rd) makes them on his griddle. (I wrote about him in The Sweet Life in Paris!) Traditionally socca has no wheat flour in it, but I would ask because he might be mixing & flipping his own variation.

alia: Glad those could help! I would still be certain that you order carefully. Gluten-free is still a ‘new’ concept to many French people (as are other food allergies) so even if they say the bottle dressing doesn’t contain flour that they’re putting on your salad, they likely don’t understand that ‘wheat protein’ is essentially the same thing.

But do make sure you get the waiter on your side. Speaking French, even not-so-well, is one great way to do it. Most are very professional and are good at their jobs, in spite of their reputation.

Thank you so much for this information, David! Almost a year into living in Paris, I discovered I am gluten-intolerant and this article has been indispensible to me as I negotiate a new way of living and eating here in the city.

I have a WordPress blog where I chronicle some of my adventures in Paris and what it is like to be gluten-intolerant here, and I just reviewed a restaurant where I ate at the beginning of the month in the 5th arr. called Le Puit de Légumes, 18, rue Cardinal Lemoine. It’s a vegetarian, macrobiotic restaurant with gluten-free dishes that opened about 10 months ago (maybe you have even written of it here; I didn’t check), and I found that the proprietress was aware and knowledgeable about gluten-free food preparation. Many of her dishes were gluten-free (salads, fish, a soy dessert which I tried) and she was very kind about my need to avoid gluten. Since there are also not a ton of vegetarian restaurants here, either (not dedicated ones, at any rate, and though this one served fish, they also had lacto-ovo-free entrées), I thought I would mention it!

P.S. My blog is linked with my name up there, but here is the specific post about Le Puit de Légumes

Elizeane

October 2, 2009 6:08pm

Thank you so much David, and thank all of you for the informations!!! My husband has a severe gluten-free-dairy-free diet and I couldn´t stop feeling sorry for him when we were in Paris last year. We are coming back in few days and this time, THANKS TO ALL OF YOU, our trip will be diferent, with a rich food experience!! If I hear about any other gluten-free places, I will post here for sure.

Merci!! Elizeane

Olivia

January 5, 2010 12:22pm

Thank you for this post! These are some great resources and ideas.

I have to add, I ate in Paris not too long after going gluten free, and was treated wonderfully. Better than in the Canadian and American restaurants I’d been frequenting. I was surprised! It helps that I speak (imperfect) french, so I could communicate my needs clearly, but I was really blown away by how easily and politely they handled my needs.

One waiter even joked around with me, teasing that he’d put blé in my eggs, etc. The lightheartedness about the whole affair was refreshing.

Hi there! I would like to thank you so much for all the informations you provide us also for how useful your website is. Reached myself by a celiac disease, I know how hard it is to find good places to eat gluten free, that’s why I’m proposing a bed and breakfast “gluten free” in Paris. For more information have a look on my website http://www.glutenfreeparis.com Cheers

Jan Greenough

September 4, 2010 6:28pm

I am celiac. I need gluten free/casien free food. I need to go to restaurants & markets. Thanks. Staying on corner of Archives and Bretonne in the Marais. Jan