Harbor Bar & Brasserie, 500 Harbor Blvd., Weehawken. (201) 348-4444. Hours: Dinner: 5-11:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays. Open for breakfast and lunch weekdays; brunch on Sundays. Website: harborbar.com. Area: Hudson County THREE STARS
For some reason (and despite the expansive view of Manhattan), I thought of Chicago when I sat at the Harbor Bar & Brasserie in Weehawken. Perhaps it's the smart, handsome, manly decor, the black leather wrap-around seating, the wood floors, the wide-slat window blinds that make you feel as though you've entered the first chapter of a '40s detective novel.

Or perhaps it's because of the no-nonsense all-American menu dominated by burgers and beef, Cobb salads and clam chowder and international favorites we've made our own, such as the Cuban sandwich and French onion soup.

This is a restaurant that knows what it wants to be and executes its vision well. Harbor Bar serves updated American classics. Period. Nothing here is fussy or overwrought. Although you won't likely say it was your best dinner ever, you will likely find it perfect when you're looking for something familiar and done well. And with a great view.

Clam chowder ($6.50 a bowl) is made here with cherrystone clams, which are larger than littlenecks, smoky bacon, scallions and chives. Ours was creamy and rich -- although not as heavy as most clam chowders. We recommend it.

Garlic roasted shrimp ($12) is a must-have -- a small bowl full of sweet shrimp swimming in a garlicky butter lemon, parsley and red-pepper-flake sauce. This was served with sourdough bread, perfect for sopping up the sauce. (We did debate the red pepper flakes; they added such spark to this dish, but should they have been removed before serving? We couldn't agree.)

Seared salmon salad ($18), which is really a meal, was so filled with superfoods that you could feel quite smug about eating it -- the fish, mixed greens, avocado, red and yellow beets, cucumbers, pink grapefruit, all coated in a light balsamic and olive oil dressing. The salmon was flavorful, delicious and light -- a rare find these days -- and the crisp salad was delicious too, although cucumber and grapefruit on the same fork didn't work for me.

We also liked the unusual, robust grilled lamb burger ($14) medium rare topped with hummus and lightly grilled feta. It was served with a pickle and hand-cut fries. (And thank you for the ketchup on the side, in a little bowl, instead of just plunking down a bottle of Heinz.)

The pan-seared filet of beef ($26) was bit overdone but simple and good. It was served with buttery mashed potatoes and greens.

Grilled doughnuts ($6) on the dessert menu made us nervous; leave it to America to take a doughnut and add more sugar and fat. But this dessert worked, and well. We got two thin sugar doughnuts, a small dish of warm caramel and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Garnish at will; be as decadent or restrained as you like. Creme brulee ($6.50) was creamy and mild, with an absolutely perfect crust.

Service was friendly and attentive. Harbor Bar also offers a gluten-free menu -- including a gluten-free beer.