Boquillas del Carmen since port closure

A look at how closing the U.S.-Mexico border port has affected the way of life in Mexican town.

By Photos by Jerry Lara and Billy Calzada, San Antonio Express-News

on March 17, 2013 8:24 PM

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The Big Bend National Park's Chisos Mountains range rises behind Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. A new automated U.S.-Mexico border port connecting the town to the park on the banks of the Rio Grande is quietly expected to open soon under an agreement between the neighboring countries. less

The Big Bend National Park's Chisos Mountains range rises behind Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. A new automated U.S.-Mexico border port connecting the town to the park on the banks of ... more

Juan Pandilla runs a convenience store from his two room home in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, in September 2001. After the Sept. 11 attacks, the U.S.-Mexico border crossing at Big Bend National Park was closed, cutting Boquillas residents off from tourist dollars.

Juan Pandilla runs a convenience store from his two room home in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, in September 2001. After the Sept. 11 attacks, the U.S.-Mexico border crossing at Big Bend National Park was

Juan Pandilla runs a convenience store from his two room home in... Photo-4339973.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Children take their shot at a pinata during a birthday party in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Tuesday, July 20, 2004.

Children take their shot at a pinata during a birthday party in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Tuesday, July 20, 2004.

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

Children take their shot at a pinata during a birthday party in... Photo-4339978.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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A metal soldier warns travels to stop at the entrance to Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Tuesday, July 20, 2004. The site used to be the barracks for Mexican soldiers stationed in the area.

A metal soldier warns travels to stop at the entrance to Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Tuesday, July 20, 2004. The site used to be the barracks for Mexican soldiers stationed in the area.

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

A metal soldier warns travels to stop at the entrance to Boquillas... Photo-4339980.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Guadalupe Davila, 56, draws water from a well in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Although the town has a water tower built by the government, Davila uses the well because residents have to pitch in $5 dollars a month for gasoline to run the pump. The town' main source of income, American tourists crossing the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park, stopped after the Federal government closed the border in May 2002 in response to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Guadalupe Davila, 56, draws water from a well in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Although the town has a water tower built by the government, Davila uses the well because residents

Guadalupe Davila, 56, draws water from a well in Boquillas del... Photo-4339998.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Ramon Cruz Alvarez, 36, left, sells produce in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. From the town of Ocampo, Coahuila, Cruz and worker, Francisco Manuel Carrera, 17, center, travel over 170 miles to isolated towns to sell their produce to residents like Adrian Martinez Ureste, 12, right, who bought tomatoes and hot dogs for his family. Once able to buy their food with American tourist dollars across the Rio Grande in Big Bend National Park, residents of Boquillas have to rely on traveling sales trucks since May 2002 when the federal government shut down border crossings in the area. less

Elvia Martinez Ureste, 25, left, sits with her cousins, Yadira Diaz Padilla, 13, center, and Judith Diaz Padilla, 10, in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Teachers and doctors for the children have to travel over 160 miles to the town which is located across the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park. Before the federal government closed off the access across the river in May 2002, residents relied heavily on the U.S. side for emergency medical services, food and tourists.

A small bulb hangs from wiring at the Padilla residence in Boquilla del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The towns major source of income, American tourists from Big Bend National Park, dried up when the U.S. government closed the town's crossing in May 2002.

A small bulb hangs from wiring at the Padilla residence in Boquilla del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The towns major source of income, American tourists from Big Bend National Park, dried up when

A small bulb hangs from wiring at the Padilla residence in... Photo-4339971.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Pablo Robles Luna, 78, sits in his home as his wife, Reyna, 90, folds clothing on the bed in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Robles used to sell rocks and handmade gifts to tourists who would cross the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park. That came to a stop when the federal government stop the crossings after the Sept. 11 attacks.

Pablo Robles Luna, 78, sits in his home as his wife, Reyna, 90, folds clothing on the bed in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Robles used to sell rocks and handmade gifts to tourists

Pablo Robles Luna, 78, sits in his home as his wife, Reyna, 90,... Photo-4339981.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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A pot with boiling water for coffee sits atop the wood-burning stove at Pablo Robles home in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The majority of the citizens rely on wood for their energy because propane is too expensive for them. less

A pot with boiling water for coffee sits atop the wood-burning stove at Pablo Robles home in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The majority of the citizens rely on wood for their energy ... more

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

A pot with boiling water for coffee sits atop the wood-burning... Photo-4339992.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Potatoes and chilies are the meal in the Pablo Robles residence in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004.

Potatoes and chilies are the meal in the Pablo Robles residence in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004.

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

Potatoes and chilies are the meal in the Pablo Robles residence in... Photo-4340002.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Kitchen utensils hang from the wall at the Pablo Robles residence in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Robles has Pablo's Rock Shop and would sell his merchandise to American tourists from Big Bend National Park.

Kitchen utensils hang from the wall at the Pablo Robles residence in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Robles has Pablo's Rock Shop and would sell his merchandise to American tourists

Kitchen utensils hang from the wall at the Pablo Robles residence... Photo-4339997.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Pictures and rosaries hang on the walls of Pablo Robles house in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004.

Pictures and rosaries hang on the walls of Pablo Robles house in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004.

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

Pictures and rosaries hang on the walls of Pablo Robles house in... Photo-4339972.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Pablo Robles Luna, 78, shows off some of his handmade scorpions that were popular with tourists in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The town of about 100, located across the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park, has suffered since access across the river was shut down by the U.S. federal government after the Sept. 11 attacks.

Pablo Robles Luna, 78, shows off some of his handmade scorpions that were popular with tourists in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The town of about 100, located across the Rio Grande

Pablo Robles Luna, 78, shows off some of his handmade scorpions... Photo-4339977.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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With the help of Jaime Davila, 26, right, Servando Ureste, 24, left, breaks a horse in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Although Ford pickup trucks are used in the area, horses and burros are valuable because gasoline is hard to get in this isolated town across the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park. Food and supplies used to be across the river in the U.S. side but that changed when the border was closed in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Now people have to travel around 170 miles on rough roads. less

With the help of Jaime Davila, 26, right, Servando Ureste, 24, left, breaks a horse in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Although Ford pickup trucks are used in the area, horses and ... more

Photo: JERRY LARA, San Antonio Express-News

With the help of Jaime Davila, 26, right, Servando Ureste, 24,... Photo-4339993.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Solar panels glimmer in the afternoon sun in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Access across the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park was cut off by the federal government in May 2002 in response to the Sept. 11 attacks. The crossing brought a steady stream of tourists to the town and residents were allowed to cross the border for their groceries.

Solar panels glimmer in the afternoon sun in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Access across the Rio Grande from Big Bend National Park was cut off by the federal government in May 2002 in

A rider makes his way past the Park Bar in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Once a popular spot for U.S. tourists from Big Bend National Park, the bar remains open after the border was shut down by the U.S. Federal government May 2002.

A rider makes his way past the Park Bar in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. Once a popular spot for U.S. tourists from Big Bend National Park, the bar remains open after the border was

A rider makes his way past the Park Bar in Boquillas del Carmen,... Photo-4339995.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Prices are still in U.S. dollars at the Park Bar in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The bar was a popular spot for U.S. tourists, but the flow has dried up since the U.S. government shut down the border crossing between the town and Big Bend National Park in May 2002.

Prices are still in U.S. dollars at the Park Bar in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Wednesday, July 21, 2004. The bar was a popular spot for U.S. tourists, but the flow has dried up since the U.S. government

Cruz Gonzalez Vasquez, 66, makes her way down a rocky path to tend her stove, the barrel in the background, in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Thursday, July 22, 2004. In sight of the Rio Grande, she relied on tourists from the U.S. for the family's income. The crossing was shut down in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Cruz Gonzalez Vasquez, 66, makes her way down a rocky path to tend her stove, the barrel in the background, in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, on Thursday, July 22, 2004. In sight of the Rio Grande, she relied on

Cruz Gonzalez Vasquez, 66, makes her way down a rocky path to tend... Photo-4339982.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Ysidro Sandoval takes his infant grandson, Adolfo, for a ride in the town of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, which is located along the border with Big Bend National Park, in October 2006. The residents of Boquillas once made a very good living by providing meals, beer and curios to tourists and hikers visiting Big Bend. There was no official border crossing, but tourists were unofficially allowed to cross the Rio Grande, spend time and money in Boquillas, and return. All of this changed in 2002, when, in response to the terror attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, this practice was stopped as part of a crackdown on the borders. Since then, Boquillas has been shrinking because residents of this extremely isolated town have almost no income.

Ysidro Sandoval takes his infant grandson, Adolfo, for a ride in the town of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, which is located along the border with Big Bend National Park, in October 2006. The residents of

The Buzzard's Roost, seen in October 2006, was a modest, yet popular hotel in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, whose clientele consisted of tourists visiting from Big Bend National Park across the Rio Grande in Texas. The hotel has closed, since tourists can no longer come because of the clamping down on unofficial border crossings after the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001.

The Buzzard's Roost, seen in October 2006, was a modest, yet popular hotel in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, whose clientele consisted of tourists visiting from Big Bend National Park across the Rio Grande in

The Buzzard's Roost, seen in October 2006, was a modest, yet... Photo-4339975.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Elizeo Valdez, seen in October 2006, is perhaps the most recognizable face in Boquillas. A sociable fellow, he is not shy about displaying his mangled right arm and asking for money to "buy a cup of coffee." Some describe his appearance as that of an "old prophet." The residents of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, catered to tourists visiting Big Bend and crossing into Mexico for refreshment and a meal. The unofficial crossings are no longer allowed and Boquillas is no longer thriving.

Elizeo Valdez, seen in October 2006, is perhaps the most recognizable face in Boquillas. A sociable fellow, he is not shy about displaying his mangled right arm and asking for money to "buy a cup of coffee."

Elizeo Valdez, seen in October 2006, is perhaps the most... Photo-4339974.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Juanita Luna, middle, displays her quilting handiwork to Zoey Sexton, left, and Cynta de Narvaez in October 2006. The residents of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, have been searching for new livelihood since the tourists from Big Bend stopped arriving in 2002. The quilt will be sold in Big Bend.

Juanita Luna, middle, displays her quilting handiwork to Zoey Sexton, left, and Cynta de Narvaez in October 2006. The residents of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, have been searching for new livelihood since the

Cynta de Narvaez, left, Wendy Weckessen and Zoey Sexton converse on the bus carrying them and their merchandise out of Boquillas del Carmen to Musquiz, Mexico, in October 2006. From there, they will take their shipment to Del Rio, Texas, and north to the Big Bend. The three are residents of the Big Bend area and have started their import program to help Boquillas residents create a livelihood.

Cynta de Narvaez, left, Wendy Weckessen and Zoey Sexton converse on the bus carrying them and their merchandise out of Boquillas del Carmen to Musquiz, Mexico, in October 2006. From there, they will take their

After a long bus ride, Cynta de Narvaez unloads quilts and other merchandise made by residents of Boquillas del Carmen in Muzquiz, Mexico. The items will eventually be sold in Big Bend National Park. The residents of Boquillas once made a very good living by providing meals, beer and curios to tourists and hikers visiting the Big Bend of Texas. There was no official border crossing, but tourists were unofficially allowed to cross the Rio Grande, spend time and money in Boquillas, and return. All of this changed in 2002, when, in response to the Sept. 11 attacks, the crossing was closed as part of a crackdown on the borders. Since then, Boquillas has been shrinking because residents of this extremely isolated town have have almost no income.

After a long bus ride, Cynta de Narvaez unloads quilts and other merchandise made by residents of Boquillas del Carmen in Muzquiz, Mexico. The items will eventually be sold in Big Bend National Park. The

After a long bus ride, Cynta de Narvaez unloads quilts and other... Photo-4340068.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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A view of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico from an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The international crossing at Boquillas in the park was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced during a press conference at the park that the crossing is scheduled to open again.

A view of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico from an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The international crossing at Boquillas in the park was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11

A view of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico from an overlook in Big... Photo-4340052.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas in the park, during a press conference later in the day. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from... Photo-4340056.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from Boquillas Del Carmen, Mexico, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas in the park, during a press conference later in the day. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from... Photo-4340061.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas in the park, during a press conference later in the day. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Children on horseback cross into Big Bend National Park from... Photo-4340060.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Custodian Maria Martin cleans up the area around the Rio Grande Village store in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, inside the park. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Rio Grande Village is the closes store to the crossing and was used by many of citizens of Boquillas as their grocery store before the closing of the border. The crossing was also popular with park tourists that would cross into Mexico for beer, food and crafts.

Custodian Maria Martin cleans up the area around the Rio Grande Village store in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of

Custodian Maria Martin cleans up the area around the Rio Grande... Photo-4340065.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Sylvestre Sanchez, right, a Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico resident, sells his crafts along an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Buying a walking stick was Landy Johnston and his stepson Ethan Jones of Huntsville, Texas. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas inside the park. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Rio Grande Village is the closest store to the crossing and was used by many of citizens of Boquillas as their grocery store before the closing of the border. The crossing was also popular with park tourists that would cross into Mexico for beer, food and crafts. It was the first sale for Sanchez in three months. He said that he makes around $50 a month in sales.

With wet shoes from just crossing the Rio Grande, Sylvestre Sanchez, a Boquillas Del Carmen, Mexico, citizen, sells his artwork at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The international crossing at Boquillas was closed in May 2002 after the Sept. 11 attacks. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced during a press conference at the park that the crossing is scheduled to reopen. Rio Grande Village is the closest store to the crossing and was used by many of citizens of Boquillas as their grocery store before the closing of the border. The crossing was also popular with park tourists that would cross into Mexico for beer, food and crafts.

With wet shoes from just crossing the Rio Grande, Sylvestre... Photo-4340048.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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Landy Johnston and his stepson Ethan Jones of Hunstville, Texas buy a cane from Sylvestre Sanchez, right, a Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico resident, at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced the reopening of the international crossing at Boquillas inside the park. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Rio Grande Village is the closest store to the crossing and was used by many of citizens of Boquillas as their grocery store before the closing of the border. The crossing was also popular with park tourists that would cross into Mexico for beer, food and crafts.

Crafts made by citizens of Boquillas del Carmen Mexico citizens for sale at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The international crossing at Boquillas in the park was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks. Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin announced during a press conference at the park that the crossing is scheduled to reopen. Rio Grande Village is the closest store to the crossing and was used by many of citizens of Boquillas as their grocery store before the closing of the border. The crossing was also popular with park tourists that would cross into Mexico for beer, food and crafts.

Crafts made by citizens of Boquillas del Carmen Mexico citizens for sale at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The international crossing at Boquillas in the park was closed in May

Mexican Army personnel, left, patrol the Rio Grande by Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, as Border Patrol agents stand guard while Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin visits the former international crossing at Boquillas in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin talks with Big Bend National Park Superintendent William Wellman at the former international crossing at Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, in the park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin talks with Big Bend National Park Superintendent William Wellman at the former international crossing at Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, in the park,

Mexican Army personnel, left, patrol the Rio Grande by Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, as Border Patrol agents stand guard while Customs and Border Protection Commissioner Alan Bersin visits the former international crossing at Boquillas in Big Bend National Park, Thursday, Jan. 6, 2011. The crossing was closed in May 2002 in reaction to the Sept. 11 attacks.

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, handicrafts made in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico across the Rio Grande await tourists at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Texas. In this rugged, remote West Texas terrain where wading across the shallow Rio Grande undetected is all too easy, federal authorities are touting a proposal to open an unmanned port of entry as a security upgrade. If approved, the crossing would be the nation's first such port of entry with Mexico.

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, handicrafts made in Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico across the Rio Grande await tourists at an overlook in Big Bend National Park, Texas. In this rugged, remote West Texas terrain

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, handicrafts made in Boquillas del... Photo-4339941.58593 - San Antonio Express-News

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In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, Guillermo Gonzalez Diaz, resident of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, wades into the Rio Grande across from Big Bend National Park, Texas. In this rugged, remote West Texas terrain where wading across the shallow Rio Grande undetected is all too easy, federal authorities are touting a proposal to open an unmanned port of entry as a security upgrade. If approved, the crossing would be the nation's first such port of entry with Mexico.

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, Guillermo Gonzalez Diaz, resident of Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, wades into the Rio Grande across from Big Bend National Park, Texas. In this rugged, remote West Texas terrain

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, work is underway in Big Bend National Park, Texas, on a planned remotely-operated port of entry at the Rio Grande. It would be the first of its kind on the U.S.-Mexico border and provide access to Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, seen in the distance.

In this Oct. 31, 2011 photo, work is underway in Big Bend National Park, Texas, on a planned remotely-operated port of entry at the Rio Grande. It would be the first of its kind on the U.S.-Mexico border and