13 thoughts on “3d Printing Today Podcast”

I have recently bought a flashforge dreamer and it is a really easy printer. From what i have seen so far it hasnt had any problems except for human error.

My question is about simplify 3d. I found that is the best slicer software. But i found that i need to go back to flashprint because it has no scripts available and i have no idea how to write the scripts for the begginning and end.

If there is an easy way to write these scripts or find one to use i have no idea how to find it. If you could help me out with this it eould be awesome.

Finding the optimal start gcode and end gcode scripts is typically from the printer’s producer’s website where they typically walk you through your first print using software that they default to. From that description or from that software you should be able look at and copy the start and finish scripts for porting over to another software application. It’s also a good idea to look at the gcode and try to understand what it is doing. More then once I have had to modify the code to better meet my own needs.

Like the show a bunch,
I’m kinda stuck with a homing issue after a move to a new house.
For my Makerfarm prusa i3v with I believe, marlin firmware.
When I home the axis’s the x and z,
They don’t move off the limit switch. Just y axis behaves like it used to.
Is there some where that details what the theory of operation is for homing in marlin firmware?
Thanks

Let me clarify something here. Before, from the user interface if I select rehome all the axis would move off the mechanical limit switches and return.
I’m not sure if the state of the switches should be actuated when homed, or just slowly reversed off.

My Marlin based printers move until they hit the limit and then stop. If they are on the limit when you start the homing routine they will move off and then back until the switch activates. If something changed after moving the printer it is more likely you have a loose wire on one of your limit switches.

I would try pushing all the axes off the limits and then try homing. The most common carrier board for the limit switch has an led which lights up when the switch closes which can help troubleshooting.

Whitney,
Have you looked at the David scanner system? I read the original paper on the system and looked promising. I see now they have gone full retail and of course it costs about $3000 for the full version but I’m thinking of getting the beginners setup for $750. What are your thoughts on it. Love the podcast, I do wish you would branch into video though, so much doesn’t translate on an audio only podcast. I have learned alot from both of you, took your advice and bought S3D and 3d coat, I have a Rostock Max V2 and a Prusa I3 and man I have alot to learn.

We have looked at a couple of structured light scanners, notably David and the one on the HP Sprout. I have seen some really nice stuff come out of the David, but I bet there is a learning curve with it. The Sprout scan had such bad Venitian blind artifacts that it was unusable. At least when they were showing it off at Makerfaire last year. Could be better now. I’ve pretty much gone down the photogrammetry path. But I’m always interested in new stuff. Let us know how you do with the David.

What do the nozzle specs mean? I have been looking all over the net, and can find nothing other than the diameter of the hole. Probably been looking in the wrong places, but can you help me out with a URL or an explanation?

There is’t really a standard for nozzles. Every manufacturer makes their own, except for the Mk7/8 Makerbot nozzle which is shared with its ubiquitous Asian clones and therefore widely available from many sources. But with the precision involved in manufacture you are generally better off getting nozzles at least from a reputable supplier if not the original manufacturer. So as long as the nozzle fits your printer and comes from a reliable source the diameter is really the only variable. As far as diameter goes 0.4mm and 0.5mm are pretty standard sizes.

Just listened to photogrammetry I think in 111… Couldn’t you put the object on the turntable and use an evenly lit Chroma key green background, cut out the background in a photo editor, and then process it with the photogrammetry program? I know that is a lot of photos to edit, so for the sake of saving time, run the object through the photogrammetry software first to see if it produces artifact-less background before the painstaking chore of Chroma key editing… From listening to the segment, it sounds like the photo editing software will be less susceptible to an inconsistency in the Chroma key color than the photogrammetry software.

Your podcasts helped immensely in getting up the newbie learning curve. I bought a Craftbot Plus from Andy’s e-Stuff store and am having a very high success rate with printing. No sticking problems due to the heated Kapton coated, removable build plate. I just learned how to make Voronoi surfaces in Meshmixer. Wow, what can be created using these! Thanks for all the info you provide. What a gift.