Deliciously Direct From China Comes Keluga Caviar

NEW YORK — Keluga caviar, a new import from China, has arrived with fanfare usually reserved for heads of state. Those who have tasted it are pleased indeed:

``Exquisite`` and ``extraordinary`` were comments overheard recently at the Four Seasons, where the caviar was feted at an introductory party.

The keluga caviar, being distributed in New York by Iron Gate Products, is produced in Northern Manchuria in the People`s Republic of China. The American importers who negotiated the trade contract, California Sunshine Fine Foods Inc., helped to set up the production facilities in China.

``What we have here is really a fourth kind of caviar,`` said Gerald Stein, caviar expert and president of Iron Gate Products. It is similar in size to beluga but a little less expensive and entirely different in taste from either beluga, osetra or sevruga.

Just as the three other famous sturgeon caviars, whose names refer to the kind of mother sturgeon, have their distinct characteristics, keluga caviar looks and tastes unique.

The roe comes from the keluga sturgeon, possibly the world`s largest sturgeon (2,000 pounders have been reported), which can produce up to 500 pounds of roe. Keluga sturgeon are caught by Chinese fishermen in Northern Chinese waters near Russia, and the roe is processed on factory ships and in Chinese caviar plants.

The keluga grains are large and in taste are billed as ``the equal to any of the finest sturgeon caviars from the Caspian Sea and other parts of the world.`` If recent samplings are indicative, this might be viewed as a modest claim.

Keluga caviar is absolutely lovely--almost gossamer gray-black beads that pop in the mouth like fresh bursts of the sea. In the trade the color has been called ``jade`` because in certain lights the caviar has a greenish cast. The taste is silky and pure, not salty, and absolutely fresh.

``It reminds me of Oriental art,`` one taster said. ``It has the same exquisite delicacy.``

Already, keluga caviar has had an impressive start in this country, spearheaded by the White House Reagans. It was served to 80 people at the state dinner at the White House last month for Prince Charles and Lady Diana. It also has had a boost from Swedish ambassador Wilhelm Wachtmeister, and his wife, Ulla, who gave keluga a party at their home in Washington.

The Wachtmeisters are countrymen of Mats and Dafne Engstrom, a Swedish couple who became Californians and founded California Sunshine Foods Inc. They also are responsible for producing American golden caviar and sponsoring extensive research aquaculture at the University of California at Davis in sturgeon aquaculture.

The Engstroms, at the invitation of the goverment of the People`s Republic of China, spent two months in Manchuria sharing their processing techniques and signing themselves on as importers.

Keluga caviar will be on the menu at the Four Seasons and several other restaurants and will be sold at Macy`s Cellar on 34th Street. Prices are difficult to quote because the holiday season caviar price wars have begun.

The keluga caviar also can be ordered directly from the East Coast distributor, Iron Gate Products Inc., 424 W. 54th St., New York, N.Y. 10019.

Iron Gate will ship by Federal Express anywhere in the country. Phone orders (212-757-2670) may be charged to American Express. Prices are $58 for 4 ounces, $100 for 7 ounces, $200 for 14 ounces.

Once you have your keluga, what do you do with it?

Purists will insist on eating it on thin triangles of white bread, lightly toasted. No chopped egg, no onion, no lemon--nothing to sully the singular, virginal taste. For purest pleasure, let each grain explode on the tongue; don`t gulp it.

But a Chinese buff has suggested a new presentation, simple but effective: ``Take a thin Chinese pancake, like the kind served with Peking duck. Spoon on some keluga, roll up the pancake, stick in a slice of green onion and serve. Tell people they`re eating Manchurian pancakes.``