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Hello IKAR, I've actually used a line of products by Renovo Soft Top Cleaner | Renovo Convertible Roof Cleaner and it's done a terrific job - the wet season is here in Ireland but the roof holds out tight, not a drop since I've waterproofed it a couple months ago. Pic taken just now after it's been raining for the last 7h or so - the top does get saturated after prolonged rain and doesn't "actively" repel water, but it doesn't leak nonetheless

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No worries IKAR. Yes, i've used both the cleaner and ultraproofer but between waterproofing it I applied 2 coats of Renovo Black Dye which made the fabric look brand new, and I mean brand new. I posted a couple pics before and after on one of previous pages, and 6 months later I still recommend 100%.

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I don't think I need the Black Dye. The soft top is solid black. I live in New England and my 2005 CLK500 is a weekend car. I drive it only half a year and keep it garaged. It has only 50,000 mls. Every year I check the drain channels and treat the rubber seal with Gummi Pflege Stift. About 2 month ago I decided to clean the soft top and used Meguiar's Convertable Top Cleaner with a soft brush. It cleaned the soft top nicely, but some time later we had heavy rain all day and the roof leaked. It was leaking on both sides especially when I accelerated from still position. That's why I'd like to waterproof it.
How did you apply the cleaner and waterproofing, with a sponge brush, sponge roller, or something else? Thanks for your help.

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IKAR, so my car has also been a weekend cruiser only, garaged all the time and only covered 47k miles since 2004 – and that’s why it leaked, it was never weatherproofed as it wasn’t exposed to Irish elements �� The soft top certainly didn’t need dying, yet it greatly benefited from it as it brought back the deep black color – perhaps it’s not easy to see the difference in the pics, but in the flesh you can tell it. It’s a little bit like buffing the paint – it may not be required, but almost always improves the look. ��

Going back to your question: I washed the top with a sponge and soft brush just to make sure no crevice was left untouched, and once dried applied the dye, 2 coats, with a brush followed by another 2 coats of Ultraproofer with a different brush. If you follow the instructions or watch the tutorial on YouTube you’ll be just fine, it’s an enjoyable DIY for a Saturday afternoon ��

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Just an FYI, the canvas should not need any waterproofing to prevent leaks. It is a three-layer material that includes a waterproof membrane. It won't pass water unless that membrane breaks, which will happen over time as it becomes more stiff and brittle. A common place where that membrane breaks is where the canvas is folder over into the header at the front edge. Waterproofing will help extend the life of the canvas in these cases, but I just thought I'd mention that because it is designed not to need that treatment. Of course a water proofing treatment will make the outer fabric material better repel contaminants and keep it looking better longer.

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Tried pretty much everything that you guys said, unclogging, spraying ... sprayed with Rustoleum Neverwet, is working for the light rain 3-4 hours but in heavy rain I still get a decent amount of water. After a closer inspection found out that actually there is a gap between soft top and rubber seal right at the corner for both sides (see attached pic) and that's what causing the water to pool inside the rubber gasket.

I am thinking to throw some butyl in that gap to see what's going to happen.

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Hi Corske, in the second pic - is this the front corner where the soft top's leading edge meets pillar A? And where your fingers are is where the window meets the top? If yes, I'd be hesitant to plug it because if the water's already penetrated soft top it has to come out somewhere, following path of least resistance - if you're to "block" this exit it will come out elsewhere. It I got the pics wrong could you zoom out a little bit and highlight which area is causing you grief?

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Hi Corske, in the second pic - is this the front corner where the soft top's leading edge meets pillar A? And where your fingers are is where the window meets the top? If yes, I'd be hesitant to plug it because if the water's already penetrated soft top it has to come out somewhere, following path of least resistance - if you're to "block" this exit it will come out elsewhere. It I got the pics wrong could you zoom out a little bit and highlight which area is causing you grief?

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I agree - just plugging that hole will mean the water will leak out somewhere else. It really sounds like your soft top has a rip or tear that needs to be repaired. THat canvas should be totally waterproof.

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Got it Corske - I can't lift my top as it's raining cats & dogs for the last few days, so can't confirm if I also have this gap. Unless it's a tear / defect I wouldn't block it, at least not permanently. To Rodney's point, I'd investigate where the water is coming in - if no obvious defect perhaps try a different waterproofer?

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Greetings,
I"m considering purchasing an ORIS brand (slightly used) part # A 209 860 01 74 for my CLK320.
I'm assuming this cuts down on the wind while cruising topless (top down). :-)
Anyone have experience with this brand or type of product?

My 2007 has just had a service where the dealer changed the oil /filter and :inspected the car"
for a measly $ 550. Unbelievable!! Of course this inspection found my front brake pads were getting close
to needy replacement. How much you ask how about $750 fronts only. There needs to be an...

So after 205K miles my ORIGINAL rear rotors are giving up. No vibrations just mushy feeling and not enough braking power.
Fronts were replaced around 125K miles and they are still good shape thanks to mostly highway mileage.
Yes, I have replaced rear pads with MB OE at ~150k miles and I felt...

I've noticed a lot of the other forums have a thread for everyone to post pics of their car, but can't see one in the W209 section.
So here goes, here's my girl, 2005 CLK200 Kompressor, only options are sunroof and parking sensors.

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