Talking to a guy today, just shootin the breeze, and slider design came up.

Sliders will be my next fab project, probably sometime late next spring.

He brought up an interesting idea, one that I hadn't thought of, and still can't wrap my head around.

The theory is to put the slider essentially ON the pinch weld, NOT to put it below and hope the gussets keep it from flexing up. The idea would be, a piece of slit fuel line is placed over the edge of the pinchweld, and the slider is welded such that it is pressed up against it.

The reasoning is that, if the slider can't move, it can't generate a localized force to bend the weld, but rather would transfer the force of the rock hit along the weld, spreading it out, and essentially transfering the shock to the body mounts.

Does this seem like it would work as well as it is theorized to?

Some reading, but Here is a bit of the same idea, though his don't actually touch the weld full time, only under load.

I run Roger Brown's sliders. I mounted them 3/8" below the pinch weld, and they sometimes flex (or rather, the frame they are welded to sometimes flexes) enough to contact the pinch weld. It is more than theory, it works very very well. It held up in a 3/4 roll that hit hard enough to bend the outer rail of the slider.

Roger's design puts square tube the length of the sliders beneath the pinch weld. This spreads the load. It would work equally well with round tube. Heavy wall square tube on the outboard rail of the slider has many advantages; the corners are rounder, and the walls are thicker (they will NOT dent), and they are easier to use as steps.

This is a universal, not just applicable to minitrucks. I wouldn't put the slider touching the pinch weld even if cushioned by split tube. Not necessary.

don't think to hard about it.
what happens when the vibes from the rig wear through the rubber or whatever you put on the p/w
then! if you don't seal up the rubber line your gonna get water and crap in it.
hmmm, good place for rust to start.

Hmmm. Good points. The truck I saw had no worry about rust. I would be suprised if you could find a single NON rusted part on the truck (from ohio).

Aparantly, there is no vibration from them. Essentially, on install, he said that he did the split tube thing, then lined up the slider and jacked the slider up until the truck began to move upward. Then welded them on.

I agree, I'm not sure how that would be with rust and the like, but it sounds like putting them closer to the weld is better. Just not touching.

To be clear, we would still gusset the tubes at the frame? Or not, so there is more flex?

Just run two stout square tubes off of scab plates welded to the frame. A small triangle brace from the tube to its scab plate, top of the tube, is a good idea. Run a single tube fore-n-aft beneath the pinch weld, say, 3/8" below, then weld on whatever outer slider tube strikes your fancy.

Many 55's run the sliders that are welded into the rocker. The body mounts hold up fine. At least from what I've seen. I've seen that the rockware's looks like they are touching on all the rovers I see. IMHO I think it's fine it's a personal preference and to what you believe is best.

__________________See you on the trailWěREKCouple o' FJ40's, BJ70, UZJ100, TDI66FJ40,82FJ60,97FZJ80TLCA#4180

I like the 'Ultimate' sliders, they use thicker walled tubing. I have noticed other brands with dents, mine won't. Coat them with POR-15 and your favorite top coat. Hammerite sprays or brushes on with foam brushes to produce the same finish. I welded mine on, easier than Roger's bolt-on method. YMMV.

Roger's sliders have kickouts. 1" or 2", your choice. Rear only or front and rear, I did the 2" front and rear and do not regret it (now with wider wheels and stance, it is not merely nice but needed). They nicely tuck up for additional clearance, and the door opens just above the top of the outer rail. Nice.

You don't need three plus tubes going to the frame, BTW. That top one looks like overkill in the extreme.