This might be ignorance on my part, but I can't imagine using any other nylon than Taulman's. The sheer amount of research and work that has gone into creating a nylon for this very purpose does not seem to be rivaled by any other nylon filament, and possibly not any other material at all.

I'm interested to see more testing of Nylon. I've done a couple of test prints (it will work with the MG hotend, at 200-220 IIRC). But it shrinks like crazy. It might be workable with a heated bed, but it probably require enclosing the machine and certainly not the assisted cooling from a stock Series 1. I'll run some through one of the all metal extruders and see if it works...

Im wondering, based on real world experiences, which consumables shrink a lot(Im sure they all shrink at least a little) and how much they shrink. Is it something that can be accounted for when slicing the object?

http://richrap.blogspot.com wrote:And one final note, if you plan to use Nylon for printing, MakeAlot directed me that the best surface material to print on is Tufnol (Whale brand) this cotton weave, resin based laminate is often used for mechanical jigs in the electronics or test area. You need to get the Whale brand type and not other similar products based on fiberglass or composites.

Liquid wrote:Im wondering, based on real world experiences, which consumables shrink a lot(Im sure they all shrink at least a little) and how much they shrink. Is it something that can be accounted for when slicing the object?

Im going to grab some Taulman's and check it out.

PLA shrinks very little. If I want real world accuracy, I scale up to 1.01 or 101% in Kisslicer. This seems to be a very good shrinkage compensation.

The dimensions of this "table" are 150mm by 200mm. As far as my good eyesight and tape measure go, it's on the dot. Horizontal accuracy was fine for me. The pain is internal diameters. Those bolt holes will need reaming...

As exciting as an all metal hot ends sounds, it seems like your adding problems that you'll then have to fix or work around. I agree with the above-stated need for a cool end on top of the hot end. It seems to me that adding cooling, esp active cooling if you plan on printing Ultem, is only going to complicate the process of getting your new hot end to operate properly.

As an alternate starting point, what about replacing the PEEK cool end with a ceramic one? Same size and shape. I think you might get a plug-n-play (but still beta) hot end that you can experiment with high temps on. With longer print times, heat soak may come into play, but at least you could start with passive cooling on the cool end.

Side note: developed my first clog today, so much encouragement goes out to those looking into the taper/easier to clean aspects!