Sow coneflower seed this fall

A: Sow echinacea (coneflower) seed about 1⁄8 inch deep in a sunny spot with well-draining soil September through November.

I've found rain lilies to be really easy to grow from seed. I simply break off the ripe - brown, splitting - seed capsules and sprinkle the seeds around the same or another well-draining bed. I might also sprinkle seed in pots.

Sometimes I harvest the ripe seed capsule and sprinkle the seed into an envelope and share with others.

Q: In 2005 Hurricane Rita took out a large Chinese tallow tree at my home. I had the stump ground, and every spring since I have planted new sod. Every summer the sod dies in that spot. I would like a new tree, maybe a cypress. How close to that spot could I plant the tree? Would the tallow roots kill the new tree?

A: After hurricanes Rita and Ike, arborists suggested planting new trees at least 6 feet away from ground stumps, to avoid soft areas with more ground-up wood than solid soil. And at this distance, it might be easier to dig an adequate-size hole between any remaining roots of the fallen tree.

It's been eight years since Rita, and I would think old tree roots would have seriously decomposed by now, so you likely can plant closer. Use a long rod to check the soil for remaining roots. They won't kill a new tree, but they might make it more difficult to dig a hole twice as wide as the new tree's root ball. The rod also will locate any decompressed areas.

You might run a soil test. Perhaps you had most of the ground-up material removed, but any remaining chips and shavings could have been robbing your sod of nitrogen and other nutrients as the wood pieces decomposed.

A cypress would be lovely. Bald cypress may occasionally produce a few knees, but the equally beautiful Montezuma cypress doesn't produce knees.

Q: My cantaloupe produced nice fruits, but recently some vines wilted and died. One day things were fine, and a few days later all the leaves were dead or dying. The vines had splits. I dug around the dead vines and didn't see any insects. This is a raised bed so it is difficult to overwater, but it almost looks like the vines are rotting. I cut off the water for a few days, and then it rained every day. So I am not sure how valid that data is.

Do you have any idea what is causing the problem? It is probably too late for this year, but these have been such a great crop that I want to do it again next year

V.N., Houston

A: It's difficult to determine the problem, especially since the vines appear to have been dead for some time. Harris County AgriLife horticulturist Skip Richter says a rot was involved at some point, but it may have been secondary, following a physical wound or a pest munching on plant parts.

"In the future when a vine is declining, pull it and see if the roots are further gone than the vine; indicating that a root rot was the initial cause," Richter says.

When you pull the dead plants, check the roots for signs of nematodes, microscopic pests that create nodules on the roots.

Rotate your crops next planting season, if possible. And plant cultivars resistant to common cantaloupe diseases such as fusarium wilt.

Q: I tried to grow cucumbers earlier this year. The plants produced pale green cucumbers, and the insides were white, pithy and bitter. What did I do wrong?

I received a large bird's nest fern as a gift. I am petrified I am going to kill it with kindness as I do a lot of inside plants. Do you have a proper schedule I can follow to ensure that it will survive?

C.M., Houston

A: Hot or chilly temperatures, uneven watering or drought, low soil fertility and foliar diseases can cause bitterness. The heat is unavoidable, but try to keep the soil consistently moist during the growing season. Not much can be done once the problem starts, and many experts recommend removing affected vines as future fruit also will be bitter.

Plant cucumbers in a compost-enriched, well-draining soil when temperatures have warmed in spring. Cold weather can lead to a pale green. Perhaps the soil was lacking nitrogen and other nutrients; such deficiencies also lead to poor color.

Run a soil test before planting so you'll know what the soil needs to help provide a good crop.

Bird's nest ferns are relatively easy. House temperature and amount of sunshine from a window will determine how often you'll need to water. Generally, I find once every five to seven days is adequate. Your plant and the potting soil will give you clues. Poke your finger into the soil to see if it's moist. If it's dry, water and allow to drain. Then empty the saucer beneath the pot. Let the soil go almost dry before watering again. The foliage will droop if you wait too long.

You'll also notice that the pot's weight becomes lighter as the soil dries.

Kathy Huber has worked for the Houston Chronicle since May 1981. She was Features Copy Desk chief before becoming the first full-time garden editor for the paper in 1988. She writes a weekly garden Q&A and feature stories.

A Texas Master Gardener, she's the author of The Texas Flower Garden, published by Gibbs-Smith in 1996. She's been a frequent speaker at various garden events.

A native of Moultrie, Ga., she graduated from Queens University of Charlotte, formerly Queens College. She did graduate work through the University of Georgia system.