I have been busy painting for the last month. I finally started spraying the top coat after completing all the parts to primer stage. Every part was done as follows. One cross coat brushed on then ironed and lightly sanded. Next was one cross coat sprayed on then sanded and a touch of ironing. I liked ironing right after the brush coat instead of waiting until the first spray coat. Less primer to mess up the finish I found. Then I sprayed two cross coats one after the other. Sanded again and then used a white ecoprime. That then got sanded, tack ragged and wiped with alcohol then sprayed the top coat. Needless to say, a bunch of work. The ecoprime helps with the low pigment colors I have and it suppose to give a better finish. I have no idea if it is any better or not. I have none to compare to

Here is a few shots to see how it is coming. This is not long after I sprayed. The finish will smooth out a bit more as it drys.

Here you can see the quality. I think it is ok.

One thing I have found is I do not get a smooth finish on the wet coat right out of the gun like I thought I should. I tried many settings and all give the same results. As long as you got it shiny 2 seconds or so after the gun, it works. The paint smooths out as it drys. So everytime I think I screwed it up it is fine. I think the main thing is really make sure you have full colour saturation. If you get that, the wait coat combined with the fog coat will get you a good finish. I am guessing here, but it looks like it is working that way for me. All surfaces have been done on a vertical, so the flats may be different.

Here you can see the wing roots and the windsheild/skylight support in the back ground. I added nut plates to them for easy windshield installation. These small parts take a lot of paint and are not the simplest of spray jobs.

Here you can see the turtle deck and gear leg. I used the ecoetch and the ecoprime. They worked out well on the aluminum parts.

One thing about the paint is you have a very slight textured look, very slight orange peal. I tried many different gun settings and I got the same results each time. Now I am going with the setting that uses the least amount of paint to keep the weight down. One thing for sure, it is really shiny!

The fuse should hit the booth soon! Just want all the small parts done first.

First off.........thanks again for your on-going postings Troy. Very helpful!

You mentioned slight "ironing" right after first brush coat. Not only is Stewart's new to me but painting fabric is as well. Painted several composite airplanes but never tube and fabric. I'm assuming you are only ironing the tape edges.............and, because maybe loose edges show up better covered with EcoFill? That close to correct?

Also, just curious.........what air line filter system are you using? Some of these new filter systems, at low micron levels, are more expensive than the paint guns!

You mentioned slight "ironing" right after first brush coat. Not only is Stewart's new to me but painting fabric is as well. Painted several composite airplanes but never tube and fabric. I'm assuming you are only ironing the tape edges.............and, because maybe loose edges show up better covered with EcoFill? That close to correct?

Also, just curious.........what air line filter system are you using? Some of these new filter systems, at low micron levels, are more expensive than the paint guns!

Thanks again Troy.

Yes ironing the tape edges, sorry should have been more specific. The instructions say to iron the tapes after the first spray. Doing it after the brush coat allows for just touch up ironing after the spray. It gives you a second chance to get what you missed.

I am using the Devilbiss filters. Yes they were more than the gun unfortunately.

I have been painting just about daily this month. All is painted except for the wings and cowl. Flaps, ailerons and so on are done. I was going to leave the paint scheme for a surprise but I figured I would post as I go. There will be no final showing, you will see it as it gets there. Sorry for taking the excitment away Lol.

Here is a shot of how it looks. The Stewarts paint work quite well and I am happy with the results. Its not a GloCustom paint job like my ten. But it's mine

I think the color scheme looks ok and not to much over the top.

The taping line has a little bit a hair size paint strings in a few places. I pulled the tape off soon after spraying like the instructions say. I even made sure I pulled the tape while making sure it rolled the paint onto itself but it still did it. I am being two picky but it is noticable from 6" away Lol.

Here you can see how the rear window turned out. If gives a nice finish look with the interior installed.

The pedals and brakes lines along with the park brake are in.

I had to put the seats in to see how the colors looked together.

So the engine should get delivered tomorrow. Then the new fun begins. I plan to cut the panel next week if I make the time to confirm everything. The wing painting will not get done right away as I will be having fun doing the wiring and engine install. I will keep plugging away.

Just another update on the SuperSTOL. I have been painting in between engine install and wiring. Keeps me from getting bored

This is what the colour scheme of the wing looks like.

The 914 arrived and I hung it the day it got here. The head scratching began as this Rotax stuff was all new to me. It's deffinatelty totally different than a Lycoming.

A bit closer up to see some details. The coolant rad fastened to the firewall with an angle and between the angle and the rad flange a put the rubber baffle material for vibration. The front attaches to the mount with adel clamps. I still have the oil lines to run and wire up a few sensors to finish. The pressure sensor will get mounted on the fire wall when it comes in.

Water cooler attachment.

I routed the fuel lines under the floor boards and out the firewall, then up to the engine.

The panel took alot of planning even though it looks so simple. That truss makes things very challenging. Fortunately Autocad made it much more manageable. The G3X had no room for error. The main connect just fit through the truss and that was it. It set the location and I made most everything work from there. I also had to push the panel out a bit for the G3X to clear the truss. I used stand offs and adel clamps along with some of the existing tabs.

It's amazing how something that looks so simple in the front takes on a whole new challenge in behind. I am waiting for a few more CB switches and terminals to finish up the wiring. I hope I don't see smoke

Here you can see the pump set up and the battery. I did not want to use any rubber fuel line with barbs in the plane if I could help it. Unfortunately the pumps do not have any NPT fittings so you have no choice. I made the transfer hose as small as I could. I also added an Andair gascolator with a quick drain out the belly just before the pump. After the pumps is the flow meter and then on to the firewall. The other line is the return line which also needed a flow meter. The battery is a 12 cell Aerovoltz. It's super light! I just made a tray fastened to the frame with adel clamps and made an aluminum strap to bolt it in place.

Here is a closer shot of the battery tray.

In the luggage area you can see the larger header tank for the 914. I plumbed a line into the top from each tank screen location per the factory. The return lines are braided to take a beating from the luggage as things could move around back there if it gets really rough. I also added a selector valve to each line. Its a bit of weight but it makes sense to have them.

So that is about it for now. If all goes well it should be mostly assembled by the end of June....actually I have no idea, it flying season now so who knows!

Great job! How far does your panel stand off from the truss? I would like to do that too so I can use a Dynon and still keep my panel low, but not sure how far off the truss I can come before it gets to be too far.

kenryan wrote:Great job! How far does your panel stand off from the truss? I would like to do that too so I can use a Dynon and still keep my panel low, but not sure how far off the truss I can come before it gets to be too far.

I stepped it back about 2". The G3X is only 1 1/2" deep so that helped. As long as you kept the bottom of the panel near the truss level for height, you could likely move it back a fair bit. You would have to do more than just stand offs thought as it would likely not hold up the load that far out by them selves. It would just mean more stick under the panel if you really come back far.

It's been a while since I updated. Pretty much took the summer off and enjoyed it with the family doing a fair bit of flying and boating. It was nice to meet many of you at Oshkosh aswell. I will start off with a crappy Iphone pic of what it looks like painted then go into detail on some of the construction. It was a long time from booth install to removal, something like 9 months of losing 1/3 of the garage.

Here is what my paint scheme looks like.

With the 914 Troy recomends using both the front and rear pick ups. I wanted to still have the wings foldable so I came up with the set up to make it work. I may in the end shorten the lines and not have it fold, but right now it does and works. I did not want to use any automotive rubber lines in the plane.

On the cowling you have to add a cold air intake for the turbo. I also added a Microsun Landing light in the cowl. I used the Aveo for the nav lights on the tips. I have a simple quick connect plug to disconnect before removing the cowl.

I also made my own hidden hinge for the cowl oil door.

Here is some shots of the F/F install. I added an oil thermostat and heat muff for the cabin heat. You get a f/f kit but not one line of instructions. This is how I did mine. Hopefully it helps other so they have less head scratching. I am happy with the results......we will see how it holds up.

Here you can see the oil thermostat and the associated plumping. There really is not alot of room to make it all work..

Here you can see the heat muff and scatt tubing.

For the intake of the cabin heat I just plumbed a 2" beveled tube near the cowl intel to take air into the system. This way there is nothing to disconnect for cowl removal.

Here is an overall shot with the wings folded and one from the aft. Not hard to tell where the paint boot was!

So as of right now I am down to the last few things. I need to add the washers to the slat dog bones and bolt the jury struts in place. After that it is really just labeling the panel and cleaning up a few more items. I plan to start the engine and taxi it at home (I can land here when I get enough time on it) and then bring it to the airport for final inspection. So not long now, likely ready some Friday