VALLETTA, MALTA—They use British-style red phone booths. Many say “grazie” to express thanks and refer to God as Allah, even though the country is almost entirely Roman Catholic.

I’m on Malta, the original home of multiculturalism.

Canada’s rainbow status is mostly because Canadians have invited folks from all over the world to the country. Malta’s is partly because folks for centuries have been unable to keep their hands off the place.

Scientists have discovered ancient temples on the island built by a mysterious people from Sicily some 3,600 years ago, a thousand years before the pyramids of Egypt rose into the sky.

Later came The Phoenicians and the Romans and Vandals. Arabs were in control from around 900 to 1100. Later came the Normans and the Spanish. Then Napoleon and the French.

The way our Silversea Cruise line tour guide, Lara, tells it, “Napoleon came and saw the wealth and the gold and silver in our churches and saw dollar signs. He needed money for his army and started melting down some of our greatest treasures.”

Outraged, the local citizens rebelled, Lara continues. But they needed help to oust the French. Who to call? Why, of course, the English, who can almost always be counted on to take on French-speaking folks in North America or the Mediterranean or anywhere else. The British came to the rescue and saved the beautiful carvings and gilded ceilings and lovely art work.

The French were present for only 22 months or so, Lara says. The Brits stayed 180 years, leaving this small dot of an island only in 1964, when Malta became independent.

“The moral of the story is, be careful who you invite to your house,” Lara says with a laugh.

She quickly adds that, while they might have overstayed their welcome a bit, the British brought a great education system and many other benefits to this Mediterranean island nation south of Sicily.

It’s not the good schools or the free health care that draws tourists to this island by the boatful, however; it’s the graceful, soft golden glow cast by the local stone buildings and the wooden balconies painted forest green and the cafés and the beaches and the gold-laden churches, some of the most beautiful in Europe.

There’s also fabulous weather; Malta residents not even feeling the need for central heating in a country so close to the shores of North Africa and where 13 Celsius is a cold winter’s day.

As we tour the main city of Valletta, Lara explains they built the city in a grid pattern to allow the winds off the Mediterranean to cool things off. While it doesn’t get overly cold, it can get stifling hot and residents have to do everything they can to capture the breeze. The grid system also allowed folks to gaze down the hills to the sea to check if the Vandals or the French or some other invader was set to trample down the door.

Lara takes my group to a small garden overlooking Valletta’s hugely impressive main harbour, where three large cruise ships are anchored. She tells us it’s only been recently that Malta had green gardens, because there’s historically been a terrible water shortage. There still is very little fresh water, but they’ve apparently learned the secrets of de-salination from the Israelis, we’re told. So now, Maltese residents can parade around a formal garden with plants and even, miracle of miracles, a central fountain. You’ll also find beautiful squares and old cannons, no longer needed to fend off invaders, as well as elegant shops and lively bars showing football on the telly.

There are said to be 400,000 people and 400 churches in Malta. The main tourist attraction in the religion category is St. John’s Co-Cathedral in central Valletta. It doesn’t look like much, we’re warned before entering. But then we go inside and are gobsmacked by what might be the most beautiful church in all of Europe; deeply coloured, emotional paintings by European masters such as Caravaggio; soaring ceilings, an abundance of gilt and stunning chapels glorifying former leaders with massive statues of marble brought in at great expense.

“The Catholic Church wasn’t happy with the cathedral when it was built,” Lara tells me. “They said it was too beautiful and nobody listened to the mass.”

We’re told the story of Caravaggio, a painter from a town near Milan of the same name whose real name was Michelangelo. He was apparently quite the party animal. Legend is he even killed a man. Forced to flee Italy, he landed in Malta, where the Grand Master of Malta wanted great artists to make great paintings. Caravaggio was made a member of the order of the Knights of St. John, we were told, and given protection by the government.

He was later commissioned to do a painting of the beheading of St. John the Baptist. It’s a dark but remarkable work with incredible power and colour and use of light. He signed his name in a trail of blood next to St. John’s head. It’s apparently the only work he ever signed.

It’s said to have been a way for him to get even with the Catholic Church, which didn’t like him hanging out with and painting prostitutes.

Things are still a bit strict in these parts. I’m told there’s no mixing of the sexes in schools for kids between 11 and 16 and that abortion is illegal. Divorce has been allowed only for a few years. These days, the island nation is wrestling with the problem of illegal immigrants from Africa, who can sometimes be found on the side of the road waiting for someone to offer them work.

Mdina is an ancient, walled city on a hill in the inland portion of Malta. It’s said that the apostle St. Paul lived here after being shipwrecked. The walls are a lovely, creamy colour and there’s a wonderful cathedral, albeit not as ornate as St. John’s in Valletta.

I pull up a chair at a coffee and cake shop on the edge of Mdin. I’m faced with endless views over this dry and dusty island. The blue sea beckons in the distance. I can almost picture the hordes of invaders who have rifled through this island crossroads over the centuries.

It certainly presents a desirable target.

Jim Byers’ trip was subsidized by Silversea Cruises. Email him at jim@jimbyerstravel.com or follow him on Twitter @jimbyerstravel.

Just the Facts

ARRIVING: Malta has flights to several European cities. You also can get ferries from Sicily, or stop here on a Mediterranean cruise.

SLEEPING: There are several smaller hotels in Valletta and also many of the big chains, including Westin, Hilton and Intercontinental. Prices this spring vary widely. At last check, various travel sites had rooms from $187 at the Intercontinental on a weekend in late April to $388 at the Westin Dragonara Resort. Do your research!

DOING: There are several nice beaches and terrific dive sites around the island. You also can take small cruises that take you to the other two islands, Gozo and Comino.

SURFING: visitmalta.com

If You Go

Find a place for cool views!

The heat of the climate is offset by sea breezes and great prospects

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