Even slimming down the wheel hubs and spokes, seatpost and some small parts I would never shed 1,5kgs

Hard to be 100% sure. I have a picture of it that i try to attach when i reach a computer (cant find the function when login with my iPhone). The picture say 1,36kg. And that was with tubes. So 200g less after picture was taken. So i lied a little, 10,16kg. But i'm pretty sure my wasnt any 11,6 kg original. But i cant find any picture of it. The scale was a parktool scale i borrowed from a friend. Not sure how accurate they are but usualy parktool dont do shitty things :-)

Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. don´t know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around

Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
Cheers

Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
Cheers

Did you replace the drive side end cap?

Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.

Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.

Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....

Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....

You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.

You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

[QUOTE=Bcchris;13186365]I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.

I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

My friend has the scalpel 2 and on his bike the clearance is the same as yours. (That comes standard with the XD driver and Sram 1180 cassette). I am concerned about that little clearance as it will cause frame rub. Iam still waiting delivery of my scalpel 2. Its been almost 4 weeks now.

I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.

That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.

Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. don´t know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around

Can you please pick a shade of orange and stick to it? I'm sorry, but it looks awful.

Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...

Second issue, changed to hope x2 brakes but the lbs cant get the front wheel to rotate without heavy rotor resistance. We are also thinking of drill the caliber hole a little wider, so we can slide the hope caliber 1 mm extra. That is all we need to be able to get the wheel to spin freely. The caliber is already on its max movement but we need a little bit extra.

Ive also had issues with the hope master cylinder, which was already replaced. Not a good start to hope brakes...

This is how it looked on my from the start. it looked the same with my onyx hub. i contacted onyx and they told me to take some measures on how long it was from the end of the cassette to the end of hub axle and it was well under the limits sram has given for the XD standard. so it looks as it is cannonade that have made a frame that hangs over the hub.

Onyx did make a new endcap for me, so it would work better.

about the brake, i have changed to sram level and had to take some material away form the adapter to make it work. i had to do the same on 2016 years scalpel where i had Hope X2 brakes. i rather take a little material away from the adapter, that isn't so expensive then on the brake.

Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...

Has anyone had any of these related issues?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had same issue with trs cassette. I tried the stock czero hub and a Project 321 hub. Ended up sending cassette back. E thirteen suggested put a slight bevel or chamfer on the back side of the cassette where it hits the inside of the freehub body to see if that helped seat the cassette in. I tried that but the chain still rubbed the frame.
I did have a brake issue but that was the rear mount was not faced parallel to the axle so I could never get the Shimano caliper to line up with the rotor.

That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think it's the hub as I have tried two. It's a combo of the si frame and the trs cassette.
Is anyone successfully running a trs 9-46 cassette on their Scalpel-si? If so, what hub?

Do you guys have this problem? When tighten the rear wheel axle, it actually pulls the derailleur hanger toward the wheel side, it looks like the hanger is bent, however, I changed a new hanger on it, same situation. So, is that normal? Or we need to align it with the hanger alignment tool?

I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.

Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.

Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.

I do all my own bike builds and this is the first thing i check.

More specifically, Loctite 242 (blue) is the specific version that is needed on the derailleur hanger bolts.

Set the hanger with the correct tool!
I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

Now its fine.

Btw... new frame

Thanks, I have set the hanger with ParkTool hanger alignment tool, it should be fine now. In fact, I take a look of the new stock of Scalpels in bike shop, seem all of the hangers are out of alignment from the factory. By the way, would you be able to take a pic of the rear derailleur from the rear side, like the photo I posted above, I would like to compare it. Thanks!

Actually, my Lefty 2.0 requires bearing reset every time, to obtain full travel for the next trip.

This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.

This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.

Does it mean too much air on my Lefty? Would like to hear your suggestions! Thanks mate!

Si Crank plastic preload spacers installation

Just wonder how many spacers should I add to the non drive side, as the original factory built was 3 spacers installed on the Scalpel Si. I found that it's a bit tight and made the wave washer flattened, so that the crank didn't spin freely, it seems that I have to remove all 3 plastic spacers. How many spacers do you guys added?

Just wonder how many spacers should I add to the non drive side, as the original factory built was 3 spacers installed on the Scalpel Si. I found that it's a bit tight and made the wave washer flattened, so that the crank didn't spin freely, it seems that I have to remove all 3 plastic spacers. How many spacers do you guys added?

There's no true specific number of spacers.

You want just enough (or none) to only slightly deform the wave washer.

Crest Mk3 rims have a max rider weight of 190lbs I believe. So you're under that. Note that they list 'rider' not 'rider+bike' which makes a difference for you to be under or over the limit.

Crest Mk3 rims have a two year warranty. So I'd say you're entitled to a warranty replacement. The wheels may have been built with too high spoke tension. In that case NoTubes may decline the warranty and Cannondale needs to make it right for you. Unless someone that doesn't know what they're doing has played with spoke tension, then you're going to be out of pocket.

2017 Scalpel Count-Down

I own a Scalpel Si 2017 Race with XTR gears and would like to change the cassette (only the cassette) to XX1. Will a standard DT Swiss XD driver fit the 350 rear hub on a Scalpel or do I need something else because of the AI rear wheel? (The stardard one is this one https://www.bike24.com/p252677.html)

I own a Scalpel Si 2017 Race with XTR gears and would like to change the cassette (only the cassette) to XX1. Will a standard DT Swiss XD driver fit the 350 rear hub on a Scalpel or do I need something else because of the AI rear wheel? (The stardard one is this one https://www.bike24.com/p252677.html)

No the freehub body should swap out without anything special needed. The Ai wheel is just dished differently, the hub is not any different than any other.

About two months ago I picked up a beautiful 2017 Scalpel Si 1 and I have about 500 miles on it now. Just last night i had it on a stand, giving it a deeper clean than usual after a dusty ride, and I noticed that the rear brake hose is literally lacerating the carbon fiber bottom bracket shell. Like, there is a 2mm deep channel rubbed through the bright red paint and into the black carbon fiber material. No pictures at the moment.

Has anybody had this happen? Any recourse with Cannondale you're aware of?

There's supposed to be a plastic guide fitted or did they drop that feature?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

On the Scalepl 29 frame there were those annoying little plastic guides that would come loose frequently. Now with the internal routing there is no guide. There is also no real rock guard on the down-tube/BB shell, although there is a thin, transparent plastic material glued to the underside of the downtube forward of the BB. I'm not that worried about the bb shell as it seems modern carbon MTB frames are indestructible, but it definitely looks like the brake hose could rub deeper and deeper into the shell until the integrity--nevermind the resale value--is compromised.

Let the air out of your shock and bottom it out to set the hose and cable housing lengths under the BB. Otherwise you run the risk of not leaving enough length for full travel or making it longer than necessary. I've done this for years on Scott and Specialized bikes with the same routing.

Stem/Steerer???

Hello all, looking above at the pic posted by Scalpel226 as well as other pictures that are easily goggled, does anyone have an idea on what kind of stem and steer tube is being used on the CFR bikes? Is this the way that C'dale is going for production bikes? I would think it's lighter and would offer consumers more options on upgrades but it kinda flies in the face of their Si marketing. Any info/thoughts??

Full sprint remote failed

The original one not working, then replaced by Rockshox, worked for 2 months, then failed again, seems the plastic ring inside was broken, replaced with new metal parts, but it doesn't work after re-bleed......really annoying....is there any special technique for replacing the parts or bleeding?

Does anyone know what the dimensions (eye to eye and stroke) of the rear shock is on the Scalpel 2017, and if anyone managed to fit a Fox-rear shock on it. I really like the frame but have a idea of running it with Fox both rear and front. I had the Monarch on my old bike and had so much problems with bleeding it and when it fails it goes to locked position, ruined two races for me.

Even if it is possible it looks really tight to get the rear Fox remote cable to fit. Any toughts?

A good friend of mine,he's on instagram
Bogus_designs
Just to clarify on the rear shock.Most of top marathon racers in my area have done this.
You don't have to have the evol shock,some are using the older float but the new evol changes an already great bike to fantastic.The dimensions I posted for the shock are not 100% to the stock one but it is the closest you can get and won't notice any difference when riding.
No one is using manual lockout with the conversion.
I've seen on another light build someone used the ultra light DT Swiss shock and was using a bar lockout for that.
Hope this helps.
Chillie