Power window on passenger side won't come down.

My 2008 F-150 crew cab passenger side front door window will not go down with a switch, I pulled the door panel and unplugged the motor and jumped it, and it went down and up with out a problem, I plugged the harness back in and went to where the switch is plugged in and removed the switch and jumped it and it work fine up and down , I ran the window down, then plugged in the switch and the window went up with the switch but would not come down. I have replaced both drivers door master switch and the passenger side door switch and it still won't come down with a switch, Is there a solenoid or other devise that could cause this problem and if so where is it ??

19 Answers

The problem may be in within the removal harness which plugs into
switch itself. A prong bent or internal connection. Disconnect the
harness and use two small pieces of wire, or a paper clip to jump the
connection from the harness to the switch itself. Your problem is with
the connection itself. If you can jump the switch then power is being
supplied to the harness.

I pulled the plug and ran the window up and down by jumping it from a battery, then I plugged the harness back in and went to where to switch plugged in and again jumped it and worked flawlessly , I ran the window down and put the switch in and the window rolled up no problem but it still won't go down. I used an ohm meter and checked the switch and there power draw on the up side but zero power on the down side !

You have replaced both door switches. Does the window go up and
down from the controls on the drivers side door? I have found the
switches do not often go bad. In many instances there is a problem
within the boot on the drivers side door. Remove the boot and check
for any damaged wires. Then check inside the boot on the passenger
side door. The wire does not have to be completely broken. Check
and see if any of the wires bend easily at a right angle. Repair if
necessary. Continued.

You can loose either a multi meter or 12V test light on the passenger
side door. Make the connection and operate the switch. You will get
current present on the way the window presently operates (up or
down) When you get no light on the inoperative direction move the
ground to a metal portion of the vehicle and see if it works. If it does
you have found the defective wire or connection. NOTE: These
window regulator motors operate on the same principle as old
electrical motors, reverse the polarity of the current to the motor and
the motor runs in the opposite direction.

I have the same truck, same problem. Passenger window will go up
but not down. Manual override concludes that the motor works well
both up and down. Swapped out the passenger side switch still
same problem. Driver's side controls look like new. How did you fix
your's?

Dolly: Your post is not clear. Does the window work properly (up
and down) from the passenger side? Or does it just go up, but not
down from the passenger side? What does "manual override"
mean? Does the window work properly from the driver controls?
Or just one way, up?

Both switches will bring the window up. Neither will bring it down. There's
nothing to indicate the motor is even trying to take it down. "Manual
override" means I managed to get the motor to work and bring the window
down, then up, by removing the door panel and reversing the positions of
the stator magnets... This means that the window started going down from
the up switch - weird. So, the motor works in both directions, the window
mechanism is fine too. There's something wrong with the wiring apparently,
but I don't know where to start checking. I removed the boot on the
passenger door - wires look quite new. I've only had one electrical problem
up until now and it was completely unrelated. Should I check resistance on
same coded wires between driver/passenger switches?

Purchase a 12V test light. One end should have a pointy pin.
which is connected to a 12 volt light used to probe wires and
inside connectors on the positive side. The other end has an
alligator clip which is connected to any metal part of the car to
act as a ground. The window motors are 12V DC. The motor
reverses itself when polarity to the motor is reversed. The motor
is usually bolted to a metal fixture inside the door and therefore
grounds itself, usually. Remove the door panel and back probe
with the test light (with the key in the on position) and locate the
pin which supplies power to the switch. Since the window goes
up, you definitely have power to the switch. Probe each
connection slot and push the up button until the window rises,
and the light goes on. Note the color of that wire. Now probe the
other pins while pushing the down button until the light glows. If
it glows, note the color. Now move to the same color wire at the
connection of the motor and repeat the test. If it glows, the
motor is bad, but you know it is good because of your previous
test. You will probably not get a glow when the down button is
pressed when testing at the switch connection, meaning the
switch is bad.

Hi, thanks for your reply. Yes I will test it with the bulb method. But
the switch is ok because I did swap it out with one from the rear
window, still the same thing. There's only two wires that go into
the motor. If I don't get a glow when the down button is pressed
this wouldn't mean per se that the switch is bad because the
whole loop also goes to the driver's side... How are the wires on
these windows routed? They exit the fuse box and where di they
go first - to the driver's control module or the passenger?

I'll try to explain as simply as possible. I have a 2010 F 150. I
suspect your 2008 windows operate on a similar process.
Independent power is supplied to the passenger side window via
the junction box. Therefore, the windows should go up and
down without any input from the drivers side controls. When the
window is lowered from the drivers side, power is sent through
the switch on the passenger side door to lower the window.
Since the window will not go down from from the passenger
side, the place to check is there. The window motor only has
two wires because power will flow through one wire to raise the
window. To lower the window, power is sent through the other
wire. Remember, if you reverse the polarity through a DC
motor, the motor runs in the opposite direction (reverse). This is
why I suggested using a test light at the motor when the button
is pressed in the up position or down position. Since the window
works going up, the light should glow the button is pressed up.
Now reverse the probe to the other wire and press the down
button. If the light does not glow, then no power is getting to the
motor from the other direction. There is an easy way to check
the motor with a jumper wire. If you want to know the process,
let me know.

Thanks for your reply and description - it is helpful. I checked the
boot between the driver's door and the cab and guess what -
three broken wires, like completely broken. I fixed all of them. And
guess what - nothing changed, except that now the window will
not even go up...
I don't understand how this is possible, since yesterday it was
going up, before I found about the broken wires. Colors were
purple - apparently for the passenger power adjust mirror, white
with yellow, and brown with two light blue stripes. This window
situation is getting f*** retarded. I'll be checking more stuff on the
passenger panel later tonight, once I cool down a bit.

To make life easier for you, try locating a wiring diagram for the
power vehicles for your vehicle. The diagram will include the wire
colors, making tracing a lot easier, not to mention where things
lead. Did the wires appear to be broken or cut by someone. Since
you reconnected them, check the fuse.

The wires were definitely broken. As far as I understand the fuse is
only one fuse for all the power windows, so I presumed it is working,
since all other windows are perfectly fine. I don't like wiring diagrams
and honestly don't cope well with them :) Will do a live trace tomorrow
though, and do the bulb check, I got the right kind of bulb.

So I fixed the window. After fixing all the broken wires on the driver's door boot, I
removed the passenger door panel. I had not connected well the two pin power for
the motor. After it clicked everything is fine.
My problem was resolved after I found three broken wires in the boot of the driver's
door. Two were thick wires obviously for power, one was an unrelated wire for the
power adjust mirror on the passenger side.
Conclusion: after reading on many forums it seems it's a very common problem for
this generation F150 to have weird and random failures with the power windows -
any window can fail and will either not go down, or not go up, or any combination.
It's a very common issue, the most common culprit were broken wires in the door
to cab boot. Seems some of the wires were a bit too short or kinked and would fail
after some years of service. This is not a surprise considering that electrical in
these trucks resembles a DIY job.
If there's a problem with a single window there's no need to check the fuse, there's
only one fuse for all windows.
First and easiest to check: the switch for the window. People get dirty contacts on
the pins, or blackened contacts on the button itself. All passenger switches are
interchangeable.
Second: check that the motor for the corresponding window has power at it's two
pin connector and is running in both directions. Instructions on how to do this can
be found above in other posts.
Third: Check wiring in the driver's side and corresponding door to cab boot
connections. Wires may be completely broken as in my case and many others on
forums.
Fourth: Start replacing stuff that cannot be diagnosed, like the drivers main window
control module.

I have a similar issue as well. I have a 2000 Daewoo Nubria and the rear passenger window will go down but not up. Here is the dilemma the front passenger window will go up and down from using its switch but on the drivers door it can not be accessed. The drivers switch works just fine for its own window. But all of the other switches on the drivers master switch can not operate any of the other windows up or down. The left passenger will not go up or down by using its own switch. I have been working on the right rear window by switching out the regulator, switch and motor. The only thing it will do is go down. My question is being that the drivers master switch is not able to operate any of the other windows can the issue be the master switch on the drivers door?

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