First step is to get your 14mm wrench and undo the bar that holds down the front seat belts.

After you get the bar removed you’ll probably want to wrap it up in a towel or something else to prevent it from scratching up your panels while you’re working.

Alright now get your small flat head screw driver or prying device and flip open the little cover underneath the rear arm rest / hand rail.

Behind this tab is the only screw that holds this panel on, get your phillips head screw driver to remove it.

Now repeat these first 2 steps on the other side.

Next we’ll want to remove the rear 1/3 seat. Fold down both seats first. Behind the 1/3 seat you’ll see a flap held on by velcro

Peel back the flap and you’ll find two 10mm bolts, take your wrench to that and remove both bolts.

After un-screwing the two bolts you should be able to slide the seat out as shown.

Now, there’s another 10mm bolt holding on the 2/3 seat, unscrew that as well and you should be able to remove the seat exactly the same way as the 1/3.

With the 2/3 seat you may have to push it a little bit towards the side panel before being able to get the axle out of the middle post.

Now going back to the side panel, you will notice a black plastic pop-in screw holding it to back. You’ll want to pop this out.

You can either pry it out, brute force it out by pulling on the panel, or you’ll notice a side cover which you can pop off, allowing your hand to reach behind the panel and support it whilst pulling.

You’ll want to remove the plastic cover that’s over the C pillar at this point.

After removing it, you’ll see this white plastic clip, from this pull it out, and then work your way around the top edge of the side panel.

Once you reach the front you’ll need to pull straight up in order to free the panel, from this point on you should be able to remove the entire side panel.

Take caution not to scratch up your panels as you remove them.

This is what your car should look like after removing the side panel.

Now before removing the infamous rear deck, go underneath in the trunk and unplug your third brake light.

*NOTE* at this point you can also take the opportunity to make the next step easier by taking pliers and squeezing the white plugs that hold the deck down from underneath and loosening them.

You’ll need to pop out the white clips before giving it a good pull or else you risk breaking them.

You’ll also find three tabs that fold over and underneath at the front of the rear deck these just unfold to unclip the front

Now yank up and out…you’ll now have removed the rear deck!

Now you’re able to get your windows tinted properly, or install those new 6×9’s or clean your windows!

The stock pioneer’s are crappy paper cones as you can see here, they’re held on by 4 screws and you can see that it’s a real pain to remove the 4th screw closest to the window. By the way it takes an 8mm socket

Same Deal on the left side.

Now before you put your deck back together, you’ll want to check to see if you left any of these white plugs behind when pulling it out.

If you did, you’ll want to remove them and place them on the actual deck before replacing. It’s much more difficult to slide them in if you don’t. Also, if you don’t notice them you’re going to have a nasty rattle!

Here’s the underside of the rear deck, there should be a total of 7 white plugs. you’ll see that two are cut off the pic, and there are two missing from the middle holders. Now you can see why it’s so difficult to slide it in if you leave them in the metal deck.

Here’s the locations of the plugs on the underside of the C pillar covers, make sure you pound it in good or you’ll get rattles in your pillar too.

Question: Not all of my speaker holes line up entirely, the rear and front ones are close enough to thread but the other two I can only see half of the hole. Should/Can I drill these out and should I have to?

I bought Rockford Fosgate’s that the Amazon’s checker said fit my 2001 Honda Civic Coupe. Just wondering if I should even be considering drilling these out or if two will hold it tight enough?

Also, I did realize that the original hex nuts wont work for my new speakers because there is a plastic riser on top of the speakers frame that won’t allow me to have a socket over it, not to mention the one by the window that I had to use a wrench to get out because of the lack of clearance.

Only mounting your speakers with two screws will most likely result in some rattling. It’s been awhile since I peaked under there so I can’t recall if there is enough clearance to fashion a mounting ring from MDF that could account for the difference, however from the looks of the pics there probably isn’t enough room for that.

[…] Ghosty Remove The Rear Deck this is a tutorial of how to remove all the panels soo you could see how all the panels are. im not quite shur whats rattling but i kno rear deck rattle is a problem on these model cars including sunroof rattle […]

[…] Re: How to replace rear speakers in a coupe? http://2k1civic.madstatic.com/2006/0…the-rear-deck/ And from there just unbolt the speakers (i forget what size they are, either an 8 or a 10mm) and install the new ones […]

[…] Re: Replace the fuel pump for Civic 98 I have a DX coupe, and i replaced the speakers which i had to remove the back seats and the side pannles so put the seats down and on the back side of the seats there should be 4 10M Bolts for the small seats and 4 10m for the bigger seat. i saw a compartment under there with the fule pump. hear is a wiki guide that i used to take out my seats and replace my speakers it will tell you how to take out your seats http://2k1civic.madstatic.com/2006/0…the-rear-deck/ that should help you […]

[…] It takes less than half an hour to rip the rear apart without breaking tabs. It takes that long to get the pieces off if you know what you’re doing and you’ve done it 5 times already. Even then that’s a major stretch. $60 isn’t bad at all but I’d be willing to bet that they won’t install the speakers since they don’t fit without cutting. I also think that you’ll probably have a rattle when they’re done with it. You can do it yourself, there are step by step instructions. Just make sure you have a day set aside for it. Here is the DIY. Click Me […]

Larry B05.05.12 / 1pm

This DIY is the only one on the internet done right thats still available. Just replaced my stock speakers in my 02 civic lx coupe and added 6×9 rockford fosgate punch speakers.

Thanks so much for this DIY.

Tim02.23.13 / 2pm

I just finished installing new speakers. It took me about two hours to complete. I was concerned about fit, so I mounted them on the bottom. Thanks for the guide.

jacm12.29.13 / 1pm

very useful info, now i can replace the stock speakers, that didn’t work 🙂

About

This is a site all about my Canadian 2001 Honda Civic Coupe LX. All information pertains to this model but may be applicable to others.

Disclaimer: I assume absolutely no responsibility for what you do with the information contained here. Everything is done at your own risk. Be careful when you work on your vehicle there are variouus dangers as well as the posibility of breaking things.

All images contained within the site are Copyright by me. Any images not taken by me are credited to their respective owners.