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race harness kit, air funnel kit, racing oil pump gearing kit, adjustable camshaft sprocket kit, manual camshaft tensioner and blade kit, a reusable engine cover gasket set and racing cylinder head gaskets. Here’s a closer look at the new racing parts and their associated performance improvements: TRACS – Triumph Race Calibration Software TRACS ( T riumph Ra ce C alibration S oftware) is a new computer program that allows racers to tune Triumph’s programmable race ECU from a laptop PC. Developed by one of Triumph’s most experienced EFI calibration engineers, the programmable ECU and software was created for the growing number of competitors that are riding Triumph motorcycles at the track. The new software provides racers with quick access to a wide range of adjustments that can be downloaded to the race ECU in about 35 seconds for tuning during testing, practice and qualifying sessions. Features include: Fully programmable fuel mapping (500rpm increments, for individual cylinders). Fully programmable ignition mapping. Switchable wet and dry maps. Adjustable pit lane speed limiter and speedo calibration. Adjustable quickshifter cut duration (adjustable at low, mid and high RPM) Adjustable rev limiter up to 15,000rpm. New software strategies to improve throttle progression. Optimized software to run faster to cater for the higher RPMs involved in a race environment. Ability to save multiple maps within the memory of the PC. Ability to update an existing 2007/2008 Race ECU to 2009 specification and functionality.* (*Not all features will be available if using the 2007/08 Race harness.) Exhaust – Triumph/Arrow Titanium “Stage 3″ System Triumph has continued to collaborate with Italian race exhaust specialists Arrow Special Parts to develop a new, full titanium racing exhaust system. This system complies with current FIM regulations, works as part of the factory race kit, and offers a significant weight reduction and considerable power gains.

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REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 2 allen-screws from rear seat section. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-13 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 Torx head screws– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-10 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove both rear tank-mounting bolts. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

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A.) REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-16 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 12 mm bolt from rear seat section—if you have a pillion pad remove it first by removing the 8 mm bolt, slide forward and lift free of seat catch. Take a position where you can see what you are doing or you will scratch your painted surface. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 side allen head mount bolts and 2 12mm hex head top front mount bolts– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-11 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove the 12mm rear tank-mounting bolt. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface. E.) REMOVE SIDE COVERS PAGE 15-10 and 9-15 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Loosen and remove left side cover screws on the air filter facade— lift slightly to disengage top mounts and remove—set aside in a safe place to prevent damage to painted surface. 2.) On right side cover simply and gently pull bayonet fittings from rubber slip mounts. 3.) Secure these rubber mounts and remove for later re-assembly with the Bonneville Performance brackets.

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The Norton filter adapter is then bolted to the rear piece, oil hoses are added, an oil filter is screwed into place, and the assembly is offered to the bike. With the bike supported by straps up on a lift, it will be easy to loosely mount the front clamp section in place and slide the whole assembly up the frame tube. In order to miss the center stand, the filter will need to be as high as possible without the grease nipple striking the top of the adapter. As it ends up, there is “sweet spot” where both the nipple and the stand miss the oil filter by about an 1/8 inch. Tighten the mount down when you find that place. I found that the Norton filter adapter is best plumbed using 5/16 ID black neoprene fuel hose. The spigots on the adapter are 3/8 inch, but it is better to stretch the hose over these that to use easier fitting 3/8 ID hose and then try to shrink it onto the Triumph’s smaller metal oil lines. There will simply be fewer oil leaks using the smaller hose. Be sure that you plumb the filter into the oil line that returns engine oil back to the oil tank. The Triumph oil pump cannot be counted on to create enough vacuum to suction highly viscous motor oil through a very fine filter during cool temperatures. Trying to place the filter on the oil line feeding the engine will quickly result in massive engine damage. It is always better to have the oil pump pushing oil through the filter, and the only way to have RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 5 Jan 2008 that is to use the return oil line. On all “unit-construction” Triumph engines, the rear-most oil port is the engine oil return. Other Notes • It is generally considered that adding an oil filter will at least quadruple the life of a British motorcycle engine. These motors, which were for the most part perfected in the 1950′s, were designed to run on the older non-detergent oils. In the original design, the oil tank was the oil filter since all particulate debris in the oil settled to the bottom of the oil tank as sediment. All modern engine oils are high-detergent and tend to inhibit the formation of sediment. Therefore most of the fine abrasive in the engine oil continues to circulate unless a filter is added.

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1) It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all setscrews and bolts or they will come loose. 2) Remove the stock 30mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight and discard them. 3) Install the new aluminum nut supplied in the kit with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 45 ft. lbs. or more. 4) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount), the part with 6 set screws in it , over the main triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp (see photo below). Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite, start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 5) Be sure this damper mounting bracket is setting flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the stock triple clamp. Due to the fact the stock triple clamp is cast, they could vary is size. Remove or trim around any obstructions that might prevent the TC mount from sitting down flush such as carbon fiber deco plates. 6) Loc-tite and engage the setscrew at the 12 o’clock (front) position first so it pulls the “register up against the back of your triple clamp. Do not tighten this setscrew, just snug it enough to secure the position of the TC mount. 7) Loc-tite and tighten the remaining setscrews evenly until they make contact with the groove and are secured tightly. It’s a good idea to check the setscrews after the first ride as they will seat into their final position and need re-tightening. 8) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 9) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 10) Remove the stock front fuel tank retaining bolt and washer. You must use the longer 6×30 bolt provided . 11) Retain the rubber bushing and the spacer-washer that fits inside the rubber bushing for your tank mount. 12) The gas tank mounting hole is actually off-center from the factory on this bike, by only 1mm or so, so our frame bracket has a slot instead of hole so you can make fine adjustments in the alignment of the frame bracket. 13) Install the frame bracket so the “feet” that contact the frame are positioned to match the frame. View the photo below to see how it should look and remain straight with the front edge of the gas tank. There is a front and back to this part. 14) We’ve machined this frame bracket precisely to match the Triumph frame, so as the bolt tightens up it will pre-load the frame bracket just enough to secure it tightly to the frame. 15) Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the frame bracket, put something between the tank and frame bracket to protect the tank. Each bike will vary as to how much movement there actually is under heavy braking 16) Grease the tower-pin lightly and drop it in the tower-pin hole. It is designed to “float”. Keep the hole and shaft portion of the tower pin greased for easy movement. 17) Install the stabilizer using (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 18) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls.