36 Hours In... Ile de Ré

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The harbour villages and cycle paths that adorn this exquisite corner of France’s Atlantic coast will soon say adieu to the summer crowds, says Joanna Symons.

It’s easy to see why the Ile de Ré is such a popular bolt-hole for the well-heeled Parisians who flock there each summer. This little Atlantic-coast island of dunes and pine forest is their version of the Hamptons – a tranquil, low-key and oh-so-chic antidote to city life. Which means that right now the island’s towns and villages, the long golden beaches and rural cycle paths, are packed with visitors.

This little Atlantic-coast island of dunes and pine forest is their version of the Hamptons

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But come September, summer visitors will have headed back across the arching road bridge to the mainland, meaning that peace descends on the leafy squares and streets of green-shuttered houses. This is the time to visit, when you can get a table at the most popular restaurants, and you will hear nothing but birdsong and the odd noisy cockerel on the flat, well-signed cycle paths that wind among vines and cornfields, and the vast Atlantic horizon.

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The Ile de Ré may claim as many hours of sunshine as the south of France, but it’s a very different scene from the glitz of the Côte d’Azur. It has its share of rich and famous visitors, but they come to shrug off the pressures of the 21st century. Here, you’ll find working fishing boats instead of super-yachts, bicycles instead of Ferraris.

And if you’re getting around by bike (frankly the only way to see the best bits), a good strategic base for a short visit is the capital, Saint-Martin-de-Ré. I’ve based all my hotel recommendations here: not only is it the epicentre of island life, it’s also one of the prettiest fortified towns in Europe.Where to stay

Special treatSet in prime position on the quayside, L’Hôtel de Toiras (1) (00 33 546 35 40 32; hotel-de-toiras.com) is a beautifully restored 17th-century merchant’s house. Each bedroom is different and the suites are enormous; views are of the little courtyard garden or the harbour.

Decorated in formal townhouse style, it’s a romantic place – more suited to couples than families – with toile and chintz, archive wallpapers and antiques. The service is spot-on, relaxed, friendly and attentive. Double deluxe room from £172, breakfast from £11.75 each.

L’Hôtel de Toiras is a beautifully restored 17th-century merchant’s house

Good value Villa Clarisse (00 33 546 68 43 00; villa-clarisse.fr), set in a quiet side street, is under the same ownership as L’Hôtel de Toiras but very different in style. Rooms are large, light and airy, decorated mainly in white, with a mixture of modern and antique furniture.

There are lovely walled gardens and a heated outdoor pool. Families are welcome and there are several connecting rooms and suites. Doubles from £130, breakfast from £15 each.On a budget Le Galion (00 33 546 09 03 19; hotel-legalion.com) is in a quiet spot just off the main quay. Many of the bedrooms on the first and second floors have sea views, all are simply but cheerfully decorated with compact bathrooms.

Staff are very friendly. Doubles from about £73, simple breakfast £8 each.

On arrival

Go for a constitutional. The quay at St Martin is the centre of activity at night and Le Bistro du Marin on Quai Nicolas Baudin is fun, lively, full of locals and gets you in holiday mood; the food is generally reliable, especially if you opt for the day’s specials. About £28 a head with wine.

Get a table at the most popular restaurants and you will hear nothing but birdsong

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First day

9.30am Stroll around the vast and dramatic star-shaped fortifications that enclose the town, constructed by France’s great military engineer, Vauban, in the late 17th century. The citadel here was designed to accommodate the entire island population, plus their cattle – and the sturdy walls, moats and drawbridges are still extraordinarily impressive. Soak up the views from the ramparts or take a dip from the little town beach (Plage de la Cible), where there is also a good sailing school.

10.45amHire a bike – you’ll notice that everyone else on the island is travelling on two wheels. There are several rental outlets in St Martin, all with similar prices. YooToo at 9 avenue Bouthillier has well-maintained bikes from £7.50 a day and electric bikes from £17 a day. Get a cycle map from the tourist information centre in St Martin and pedal out through the fortifications towards Le Bois Plage (2) on the south coast, a cheerful little town with a lively atmosphere and the best all-purpose beach on the island.

Le Boise Plage has the best all-purpose beach on the island

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11.30amWander through Le Bois Plage’s vast morning market, with stalls selling everything from beach bags and espadrilles to cooking pots and china. There’s also a superb indoor food market – a great place to buy provisions for a beach picnic.

12.15pm Cycle down to Plage des Gollandières (3), where the sea is backed by a vast stretch of golden sand bathed in luminous Atlantic light. Set up camp here for a couple of hours, or, if you don’t like sand in your baguette, have lunch at l’Océan (00 33 546 09 23 07; re-hotel-ocean.com), a stylish hotel in Le Bois Plage, with a good fish restaurant (from £20).

2.15pm Back on the bike, follow cycle paths among salt pans, fields and marshes towards Loix (4) and the north coast. For holiday cyclists, it’s a long haul to Loix itself, so turn right when you reach the north coast and follow the coast, past oyster beds and salt marshes, back to St Martin.

4.30pm Recover with an ice cream at La Martinière on the quay at St Martin – salted caramel flavour is particularly good – then stroll around St Martin’s shops. You’ll find any amount of French seaside chic: antiques, homeware, paintings, as well as clothes ranging from hippy muslin to Max Mara.7.30pmDinner at La Table d’Olivia at l’Hôtel de Toiras for accomplished, gastro-style cooking using local produce; from £60 a head (closed Sunday and Monday). On other nights, try L’Avant Port (lavantport.com), in a quiet harbour corner, with superior bistro-style food. From £40 a head with wine.The next day

9.30am More cycling. Take the path to La Flotte (5), a little harbour town about two miles from Saint Martin. If you’re not too saddle-sore, continue to the ruined Cistercian Abbaye des Châteliers (6), built in 1156. You’ll feel as though you’re cycling into an Impressionist painting: cornfields to one side, blue sea dotted with skimming yachts to the other.11am Back in La Flotte, stop for a smoothie or coffee at Frutti Palace in rue du Marché. Wander among the town’s art galleries and stylish shops. The food market (off Rue de la Marché) is perhaps the best on the island; each stall more jewel-like than the next. Buy tarts, fruit, cheese and pâté, plus bread from the excellent bakery.

Then grab a bench on the esplanade for a sea-view picnic. For a formal lunch, try L’écailler (lecailler-iledere.com; closed Monday and Tuesday) on the quay, for beautifully prepared seafood. Set lunch menu from £29.