Hardest Crash

I used KURE Super Rust Guard which is available in most DIY store. Once sprayed inside the frame, it will stay tacky and effective for a loooong time. Can be removed easily by solvent if you need to clean up.

Somebody here (sorry, it's in Japanese) has tested several KURE products under severe conditions with salty water, and Super Rust Guard seems to be the winner by far.

Hardest Crash

If it's new frame, the framebuilder should already treated it. Otherwise - I'm with Bird on this - I use the same stuff. Though the best is the Boeing metal treatment, but hard to make a trip to Boeing Surplus from Tokyo. (Bird, can you smuggle some back from your next trip to Everett??)

Hardest Crash

http://www.ridgeback.co.uk/bike/panorama I happened to email them asking about frame only, maybe early November, and we kind of knocked it back and forth slowly until I ordered a few days ago (thru a UK retailer they connected me with).

Bare frame and fork only, as it says reynolds 725, a step up from my long-gone peugeot (full 531), tho the fork is simply butted cro-mo. I considered skipping the fork and going CF, but will try the steel one first and leave that option for later. I wanted touring geometry for the ride, but will build it speedier, or at least lighter. With the tubing I hope it will be somewhat of a step up from surly's LHT. I'm not going worldwide (no camping or cooking), just light credit card touring here in japan.

I've already talked to my LBS about parts and help building it up, mtb XT for the drive line but I'm not sure about bars and that stuff yet--maybe pods, maybe brifters, and I've seen one local bike with bar-cons on bullhorns, a distant maybe. I've got a B17 for it that's already broken in--not sure if I'll want or need the seat shock that's under it on my other bike.

Two wheel choices--both already in stock , just upstairs. The heavier set is mavic open pro 32h with 11-34 already on the rear. 32mm marathon plus already mounted. Lighter is to use the bonty wheels off my trek (25mm 4000s mounted), add a big cassette, and squeeze the dropouts. (with a wheel upgrade for the trek!!) Even the mavics are lighter than typical touring wheels.

The DHL site says it has been processed thru Hong Kong, next notice will probably be arrival in Japan.

Hardest Crash

http://www.ridgeback.co.uk/bike/panorama I happened to email them asking about frame only, maybe early November, and we kind of knocked it back and forth slowly until I ordered a few days ago (thru a UK retailer they connected me with).

Bare frame and fork only, as it says reynolds 725, a step up from my long-gone peugeot (full 531), tho the fork is simply butted cro-mo. I considered skipping the fork and going CF, but will try the steel one first and leave that option for later. I wanted touring geometry for the ride, but will build it speedier, or at least lighter. With the tubing I hope it will be somewhat of a step up from surly's LHT. I'm not going worldwide (no camping or cooking), just light credit card touring here in japan.

I've already talked to my LBS about parts and help building it up, mtb XT for the drive line but I'm not sure about bars and that stuff yet--maybe pods, maybe brifters, and I've seen one local bike with bar-cons on bullhorns, a distant maybe. I've got a B17 for it that's already broken in--not sure if I'll want or need the seat shock that's under it on my other bike.

Two wheel choices--both already in stock , just upstairs. The heavier set is mavic open pro 32h with 11-34 already on the rear. 32mm marathon plus already mounted. Lighter is to use the bonty wheels off my trek (25mm 4000s mounted), add a big cassette, and squeeze the dropouts. (with a wheel upgrade for the trek!!) Even the mavics are lighter than typical touring wheels.

The DHL site says it has been processed thru Hong Kong, next notice will probably be arrival in Japan.

Click to expand...

It's here, as of a few hours ago. The frame itself looks really, really nice (great bell-like ring when flicking the tubes). But initial impression of the fork is that it seems extra-heavy. I guess I'll stick with it for a season or two just to see how it feels--reviews are kind of mixed as to that vs. CF depending on purpose/use and so on. I'm wanting to go lighter weight on the wheels and other stuff at this point.

I switched to a new computer a week or so ago, and while the migration worked, photoshop needs some attention (de-install, then reinstall and validate). Give me a few days for pics.

Always wondered about rust prevention but never really cared. Last Saturday I got myself this recommended can of Kure Super Rust Guard and sprayed a fair amount of the stuff inside my Anchor Neocot frame (even managed to shoot the red straw-tube inside the top tube - unretrievable now ) and to my surprise, an ugly brown and thickish liquid started to drip out of the drainage holes when I held the frame upside down. Must be pretty rusty inside !!!