Camps and Trails in China eBook

In the breast of his loose coat, which acts as a pocket,
he carries a remarkable assortment of things; a pipe,
tobacco, tea, tsamba, cooking pots, a snuff
box and, hanging down in front, a metal charm to protect
him from bullets or sickness.

The eastern Tibetans are men of splendid physique
and great strength, and are frequently more than six
feet in height. They have brick-red complexions
and some are really handsome in a full-blooded masculine
way. Their straight features suggest a strong
mixture of other than Mongolian stock and they are
the direct antithesis of the Chinese in every particular.
Their strength and virility and the dashing swing of
their walk are very refreshing after contact with
the ease-loving, effeminate Chinaman whom one sees
being carried along the road sprawled in a mountain
chair.

Of all natives whom we tried to photograph the Tibetans
were the most difficult. It was almost impossible
to bribe them with money or tin cans to stand for
a moment and when they saw the motion picture camera
set up beside the trail they would make long detours
to avoid passing in front of it.

What we could not get by bribery we tried to do by
stealth and concealed ourselves behind bushes with
the camera focused on a certain spot upon the road.
The instant a Tibetan discovered it he would run like
a frightened deer and in some mysterious way they
seemed to have passed the word along that our camp
was a spot to be avoided. Sometimes a bottle was
too great a temptation to be resisted, and one would
stand timidly like a bird with wings half spread,
only to dash away as though the devil were after him,
when he saw my head disappear beneath the focusing
hood.

Wu and a mafu who could speak a little Tibetan
finally captured one picturesque looking fellow.
He carefully tucked the tin cans, given for advance
payment, inside his coat, and with a great show of
bravery allowed me to place him where I wished.
But the instant the motion picture camera swung in
his direction he dodged aside, and jumped behind it.
Wu tried to hold him but the Tibetan drew his sword,
waved it wildly about his head and took to his heels,
yelling at the top of his lungs. He was well-nigh
frightened to death and when he disappeared from sight
at a curve in the road he was still “going strong”
with his coat tails flapping like a sail in the wind.

One caravan came suddenly upon the motion picture
camera unawares. There were several women in
the party and, as soon as the men realized that there
was no escape, each one dodged behind a woman, keeping
her between him and the camera. They were taking
no chances with their precious selves, for the women
could be replaced easily enough if necessary.

The trouble is that the Tibetan not unnaturally has
the greatest possible suspicion and dislike for strangers.
The Chinese he loathes and despises, and foreigners
he knows only too well are symptoms of missionaries
and punitive expeditions or other disturbances of
his immemorial peace. He is confirmed in his
attitude by the Church which throughout Tibet has the
monopoly of all the gold in the country. And the
Church utterly declines to believe that any foreigner
can come so far for any end less foolish than the
discovery of gold and the infringing of the ecclesiastical
monopoly.