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Sorry you missing out. If a 3 dollar bearing size is a problem by all means go with another setup. You can buy a ton of bearings for 60 dollar plus savings but **** what do I know after 25 years of racing!!!!!!!!!

For the rest of you guys you still have one more day to preorder so don't miss out. Get a LCG setup like no others out and save a chunk of change while doing it.

Wow... 25 years... I think he needs more than a bigger bearing... maybe the biggest bearing in the whole wide world

I think i would try with standard bearing and if he won't hold i will rebore to 19mm (diameter) and 5mm deep the motor mount with a cnc milling for accept bigger bearing 10x19x5mm or i will ask to Steve at STRC to make a special motor mount for me

Im very excited to see all the nice builds with the sick custom colors in near future Fortunately my baja body is painted allready... I will deconstruct my car today, to see what parts I have to replace.

I think i would try with standard bearing and if he won't hold i will rebore to 19mm (diameter) and 5mm deep the motor mount with a cnc milling for accept bigger bearing 10x19x5mm or i will ask to Steve at STRC to make a special motor mount for me

The biggest thing I learned about bearings is to never spray out the original factory grease. I just take my bearings out and wipe them off, never use air but instead a micro fiber cloth and wipe them clean. I never spray the factory lube out any more as it is always better than relubing because once you do that the bearings will need cleaned constantly. Once the bearing feels crunchy to me I just toss it and put in a new one (they are cheap and I never had a bearing failure since I used this method during any race).

My old motor sponsor East Coast Motors from back in the past who had drivers will tons of National titles said he never had a motor bearing go bad in any motor which had factory grease in them. Now he did have bearings go bad that where sprayed out before but never had a non sprayed bearing fail. I been using that info for over 15 years or more now and never have bearing issues. Even our 3 year old stock Slash rental truck has never had a bearing replaced but it does get torn down and bearings inspected and wiped off. Crunchy ones get replaced and its never blown a bearing. It gets beat to death for hours in a practice night and never a bearing issue.

Guys spends hundreds of dollars on stuff and complain about a cheap bearing. A little care will keep you from ever having bearing failure. If you run in nasty sandy type dirt then expect more wiping off of bearings and checking them. Also expect to change out a few crunchy ones more often. No matter how big the bearing or small they will get crunchy so just change it and run with no failures.

If you feel the need to clean your bearings then you need to remove the seals on both sides of the bearing and soak them in motor cleaner or parts cleaner. Wipe dry after sitting. If crunchy then throw out. If good then pack the bearing in a heavier type grease and put all the seals back in and then test bearing again to see if crunchy (it will be a little stiff from the new thick grease but thats ok) if not crunchy your ready to reinstall the bearing.

Im very excited to see all the nice builds with the sick custom colors in near future Fortunately my baja body is painted allready... I will deconstruct my car today, to see what parts I have to replace.

Ordered some transparent protection foil to save the bottom of the chassis from scratches. Just need an idea to cutout the holes for the screws. Maybe I will take a sharp drill...

I took your idea and have some clear material on the way to see if it will help protect the bottom of the chassis.
I have also have some grommet edging that I am going to run along the sides to see if it will help also (https://igate.springfieldelectric.co...ening.Hardware)
We shall see in about 2 weeks or so.

I took your idea and have some clear material on the way to see if it will help protect the bottom of the chassis.
I have also have some grommet edging that I am going to run along the sides to see if it will help also (https://igate.springfieldelectric.co...ening.Hardware)
We shall see in about 2 weeks or so.

Don't forget guys today is the last day to order and get the customized color for your LCG chassis. Don't miss out on this deal so you can get more of a limited edition setup. It will surely add some serious bling to your Slash 4x4 as well as performance. They are going to look as good as they perform.

Yes Im busy... and it was a good decission to deconstruct my car. Now I add an STRC rear diff-cup to my chassis order, because I have wobbling issues with the stock plastic cup. I´m not an mechanic or engineer, but could someone tell me why Traxxas constructed the parts that way? A metal diffoutput pivot mounted on a plastic diff-cup??? I dont wonder, that this construction will not work... I´ve got my car for about a half year... Im not a basher and I only run 2S Batteries....

i have been running the stock size bearing from day one. I have not had any issues what so ever. You hear about a bigger bearing is better and it might be but to me, i say it is the same, performance wise. Not sure what advantage one would get with the bigger bearing. The larger bearings will get just as dirty and just as hot as the stock bearings but the aluminum motor mount will help with the heat. I see the larger bearing as unneeded upgrade, in my opinion.

Actually a larger bearing will always run cooler than a smaller bearing turning at the same RPM and under the same load. The inner race is moving at the same speed but the balls in a smaller O.D. bearing are, necessarily, smaller and thus have to spin faster. This will cause more heat. A smaller ball will deform more, again causing more heat. My bearing failures occurred with an STRC aluminum motor mount (with the holes plugged). After two failures with the 10X15 in the aluminum mount, I opened up a plastic Traxxas mount for a 10X19 bearing and have had no problems since then.

Originally Posted by wyd10

Even our 3 year old stock Slash rental truck has never had a bearing replaced but it does get torn down and bearings inspected and wiped off.

I think what you said there is a key to people's differing experience with the center bearing. AFAIK, Bumps & Jumps is a indoor clay track. Cars just don't get real dirty on indoor clay tracks. On my track, a Slash can pick up 2 pounds of muck on one run if we get a passing rain shower (a guy once added 4 pounds to the weight of his electric late model in one 5 minute run under these conditions). A 10X15 can fail in a day's racing in this kind of dirt even if it doesn't rain. There is no comparison to a clay track. A 10X19 will get you through the day with no problem.

Originally Posted by wyd10

Guys spends hundreds of dollars on stuff and complain about a cheap bearing.

The complaint about the cheap baring is that it is marginal for the application (admitedly, dpending on track conditions: loose dirt vs clay), not that it costs money to replace. That and the presumption that it wouldn't cost the manufacturer any more to make the hole for the bearing 2MM bigger on each side.

Prices are not significantly different between the 10X15 and the 10X19. Evan a miniscule difference would add up to noticeable savings for Traxxas making millions (or however many they make) of these cars. So there is a reason for Traxxas to use the smaller bearing. But the cost difference to each end user is nil. And the cost to the aftermarket manufacturer to make the hole bigger is probably also insignificant.

I just saw this in a discussion on the 1/10th rally forum. Seems I'm not the only one to think the bigger bearing lasts longer:

Originally Posted by Badmunky

Converting to the Rally chassis cost about $75. A lot less then any other LCG chassis option out there.

My slash killed the stock motor mount bearing on pack 3. I averaged about 3-4 packs on them before I bout a better mount with larger bearing. Now I get 15-20 packs out of them before the bearing gets lose and I replace it with a fresh one.

Actually a larger bearing will always run cooler than a smaller bearing turning at the same RPM and under the same load. The inner race is moving at the same speed but the balls in a smaller O.D. bearing are, necessarily, smaller and thus have to spin faster. This will cause more heat. A smaller ball will deform more, again causing more heat. My bearing failures occurred with an STRC aluminum motor mount (with the holes plugged). After two failures with the 10X15 in the aluminum mount, I opened up a plastic Traxxas mount for a 10X19 bearing and have had no problems since then.

I would agree that 10x19x5 will use larger balls than the stock 10x15x4.
And that means larger surface area to help reduce heat.
I will just agree to disagree as this will be a never ending discussion.

I do understand about the bearing size. In the end I think it is up to each individual person to pick they R/C parts on their needs as that is why we have different parts to choose from and yes even LCG chassis setups. For those that have had issues in the past I can see why they are worried and for those that don't I can see that side to.

ta_man I can see you probably are not racing at Family Hobbies in Vineland as Ron would never let guys out on a wet track as that would mess up his pristine track that he has had for I think 26 years not. He is super funny about the track getting too tore up.

w t f guys, can you take your bearing debate and make a new thread topic please? topic is " STRC LCG Chassis for SLash 4x4!"

not- "hey, while youre building a chassis you should make it use bigger bearings" and not shut up size being the ONLY problem, not the fact that you run in sand. sorry to sound rude, but we're going on 2 pages with this now....just keep cleaning the dirt out, replace your $1 bearing when it goes out. by the time you spend money modding to use the bigger bearing id imagine you could have 20-30 (or more) new stock sized bearings that should last you a good while as long as the dirt is kept out.

My truck race ready was right at 6lbs even with all standard sized servo, futaba receiver, Castle 3800 motor and MMP esc. That also includes aluminum shock towers I have on and the aluminum steering rack.

I can easily get under 6lbs with a body change to a Flo Tek over my stock pre painted Traxxas body if I felt the need to save weight but I don't think weight is much of an issue as I have more motor than I need 90% of the time and my drive train is as free as my TC4 touring car so I think its good to go and right in the ball part with most others I have checked weight wise.

For those that didn't preorder the LCG chassis the standard two colors will be black and blue. These where the two most popular preorder colors so Steve went with the top two majority colors as the standard chassis's he will keep in stock.

Honestly its too tough to keep lots of colors in stock as you need to keep a lot of extra inventory that sometimes just sits for a long time making it money that could be spent on more parts that sell better or on a new up and coming product line. Which we all like seeing new parts coming out from STRC.

Not Slash related but here is one of my other R/C cars that I used a lot of STRC components on. Its my HPI Crawler King. I don't just use STRC parts on my race stuff but my play stuff as well. I was buying and using his hopup parts before I ever started racing and testing his products. At that time I found that STRC had some of the best priced and best quality aluminum parts so I just kept buying them. I hope next to buy and add STRC parts to the Tamiya CR-01 crawler or possibly the new Axial SCX10 Jeep that just came out. I don't compete with my crawler as it is just for fun only. Just wanted you guys to see one of my other toys to see I like many different types or R/C cars/trucks and how I keep my equipment looking.

Not Slash related but here is one of my other R/C cars that I used a lot of STRC components on. Its my HPI Crawler King. I don't just use STRC parts on my race stuff but my play stuff as well. I was buying and using his hopup parts before I ever started racing and testing his products. At that time I found that STRC had some of the best priced and best quality aluminum parts so I just kept buying them. I hope next to buy and add STRC parts to the Tamiya CR-01 crawler or possibly the new Axial SCX10 Jeep that just came out. I don't compete with my crawler as it is just for fun only. Just wanted you guys to see one of my other toys to see I like many different types or R/C cars/trucks and how I keep my equipment looking.

yes, the factory suspension will work. and the chassis kit shouldnt need anything extra to make it work.

remove parts, install/assemble new setup...while youre at it, clean, lube, replace worn parts. i already bought my stainless screw kit from ebay to go along with the new chassis. ill get a new front bumper "skid plate" part and maybe a few bearings i havnt replaced yet. while i was browsing strc i bought their aluminum steering kit. i plan on getting their shock towers eventually...i just wish they would offer custom colors for an additional fee. i got the green/green chassis and i want everything to match. once i see what the actual green looks like i start getting more metal parts to match.

thank you for the tip. but, im a little confused about it...im buying stainless specifically because of the aluminum. my local track is usually moist and ive seen some of my screws start to build up rust here and there.

i work on semi truck and trailers for a living and ive seen the kinds of corrosion that aluminum and rusty steel hardware can make...its not even funny sometimes, i mean we've replaced certain components worth thousands of dollars just because of seized hardware where they should have used stainless...(atleast according to the manufacturer)

so, obviously thats not rc car racing, but everything can be scaled up or down...and if it happens in 1:1 then i dont see why it wouldnt in 1:10.

ill look into the lube you mentioned but i planned on using light duty loctite, not only does it glue the hardware in place, it seals all the bad stuff out at the same time.

first link found is an aluminum boat topic and 3 posts into it say stainless only...and the same story with the 4th link down as well. if you can back up the claim "aluminum + stainless = bad" please post the results so we know why

18-8 Stainless steel has no reaction with aluminum. Make sure that your screws are 18-8 type material

Seems like it is mostly for marine people, I use to work off shore and stainless steel bolts in aluminum was always a bad deal unless we used some non seize grease. but it seems as long as you stay dry there should be no corrosion or sticking, I'll but a small bit or light loctite or thread grease on mine anyway. Or I may not even use stainless screws I have the RC Screwz set and they strip really easy, I like the stock black hardware better anyway.

I'm putting my STRC shocks together and re oiling my diffs, can't wait for this chassis, So glad I never went with the Rally LCG seems like guys are busting bulkheads.

good little tid bit. the corrosion factor probably wont apply very much as long as youre not running outdoors through puddles or by an ocean beach...but i just spent 100+... and another 18 for all new hardware isnt a big deal for me, i would have spent the money regardless, the stainless upgrade was just a precautionary measure.

im getting all giggity, just bought a new motor and esc from some cheap website that ends with z. 120a esc and 4800kv sensored motor, hoping itll do well on 2s lipo (also ordered with a new 4-row charger) and 5000mah nimh cells i already have.
now mentioning it, i have a question though...this particular brand has some motors with a "T" rating like 3.5t but this motor actually says 2d under the "turns rating" specs. anyone know what "D" is?

wyd, does the 30th or 1st seem like a lost hope to get a box at my door step?