The Apollo's guide to Ginza

Author: JONATHAN BARTHELMESS
Photography: Tom Ferguson

Japan has to be one of the most exciting places in the world to
eat. There are so many perfectionists here who do one thing very
well, and have been doing so for generations. Everyone is so
dedicated; I can't name anyone who's done one thing for generations
in our industry in Australia.

We settled on Japan to open The Apollo because if you can do it there, you
can do it anywhere. I'd visited several times with the chefs and we
did a lot of research for Cho Cho San. Since we've opened The Apollo we
can be in Ginza working on a Greek menu and, at the same time,
gather Japanese inspiration for Cho Cho San. It's a good flow.
Every time we're there we see something new; maybe new cooking
techniques, like the way they use charcoal, or something brand new
at the market.

Ginza, which is in the heart of Tokyo, is more spread out than
other areas, more of a business district. It's close to the fish
markets and there are plenty of izakayas under the train stations,
which stay open until five in the morning, but there are more
formal Michelin-rated restaurants as well that wind up around 10pm,
so it's a good mix. You can have a really good meal for $5 or $150
- it's very diverse. In some areas you feel like an alien, it's so
incredibly different, but it's great to feel that. I love it.

Here are a few of the places I've discovered that I like the
most:

Hashigo for ramen
Hashigo is all about dan dan ramen, a spicy ramen style based on
China's dan dan noodles. There's a choice of roast pork, fried
pork, chicken or vegetarian with a spicy sesame or soy broth and
three levels of heat. My favourite, though, is the cold spicy
sesame noodles.8-10-7 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo

Yajima for sushi
This spot isn't actually in Ginza, but in Shibuya. It's a sushi
bar that's been around for 52 years. The husband does all the fish,
his wife cooks the eggs and rice. It's very fast paced, to the
point where you're told to hurry up if you're not eating fast
enough. You have a choice of nine or 12 pieces and you are in and
out in 15 or 20 minutes, paying around $40 all up. The secret of
the house is ageing the fish.1 Chome-26-31 Higashi, Shibuya, Tokyo

Ginza Shimada
This is a little izakaya with room only for about 12 people. You
have to stand to eat and the guys prepare everything in front of
you. My favourite dish is the koshihikari rice with egg, parmesan
and seasoned soy.8 Chome-4-17 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo

Narutomi for soba noodles
At this soba and tempura restaurant, the soba noodles are made
in-house twice daily. The tempura selection consists of seasonal
vegetables and seafood, and this place is absolute perfection.
You'll need to be introduced by a member to get into the
restaurant, however - we were rejected the first time we
went.Futaba Bldg, 1F, 8-16-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Ginza Music Bar
Here is a fun little nightclub with different DJs playing every
night - all vinyl - great drinks, very small.7 Chome-8-13 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo, ginzamusicbar.com