THE missus and I have been varying our routine in recent months, sampling one or two establishments that are a bit of a departure from the traditional pubs we’re so fond of.

But this week’s hostelry is the sort of place we feel really comfortable.

The King’s Head in Lanchester, County Durham, is very much at the heart of village life and understandably popular with locals.

Its reputation is such that it also draws customers from far and wide eager to sample the excellent food.

On a sunny day, it’s the sort of place where you could while away a couple of hours in the beer garden which looks out on the village church’s impressive clock tower.

Not surprisingly, considering our summer this year, it wasn’t a sunny day when we visited but thankfully the interior is rather pleasant too. Although spacious, the subdued lighting, low-beamed ceiling and rustic charm help to create an intimate atmosphere in what would otherwise be in danger of feeling like a village hall.

Things didn’t get off to an ideal start when I asked the young barmaid which real ales were available.

She promptly replied that I could choose from either John Smiths or Exhibition!

It’s not the first time I’ve been confronted by staff who don’t know their ale from their elbow and I have to say it’s a worrying development.

Managers surely have a duty to explain the difference between real ale and keg bitter to staff even if, as was the case here, no hand-pulled beers were available.

I settled for a pint of John Smiths while Mrs E opted for a glass of red wine and, I’m pleased to report, things began to look up. For starters She Who Must Be Fed plumped for grilled goats cheese, which she said was superbly rich and creamy and perfectly complemented by a reduced balsamic vinegar.

Roasts on their own cost £6.95 but you can have two courses for £9.95, which meant we saved £1.50 as my starter on its own would have cost £4.50.

You can also go the whole hog and shell out £12.95 for three courses.

That said, you don’t have to opt for a traditional roast . . . the Sunday menu features a selection of favourites including fish and chips, lasagne and steak au poivre.

However, the missus and I were in the mood for a good old-fashioned roast so I went for lamb while she chose pork.

I have to say I was impressed with the presentation of my dish, garnished as it was with a large spring of rosemary, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and mouth- watering gravy. Both meals came with a separate serving of broccoli, cauliflower and carrots.

The meat was lean and tender and full marks too go to the large, crispy Yorkie. My only gripe — and it’s a minor one — is that when I requested mint sauce, it came in a sachet.

I know it’s more costly to make your own, but I find it’s usually worth the effort.

Like Mrs E, I went for two courses too. But decided to skip a starter in order to leave space for dessert. And I can report that the toffee and pecan lemon cheesecake — don’t knock it till you’ve tried it — was well worth the wait.

The village of Lanchester is just off the A691 about six miles north-west of Durham City.

THE wrong ratings appeared for the Hadrian Restaurant and Bar in Gateshead, following our initial report. It scored 16 stars out of 20 rather than 14. We apologise for the mix-up.