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With spectacular views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Shrewsbury River, you can't go wrong wherever you sit. But try to sit near a window. And order whatever you want on the menu — you can't go wrong there either.

You know you are in for a treat the minute you pull up at the Driftwood Cabana Club, and the complimentary valet helps you out of your car.

You will feel as if you are on vacation as you walk into the club and up the stairs to the welcoming

restaurant, open to the public.

With golden lighting and mellow colors, you are immediately relaxed and ready for your favorite cocktail or wine as you peruse the menu and enjoy the view. Have a glass of Champagne as you munch on the warm bread.

With crisp white tablecloths and an attentive staff, you are in for a fine-dining experience.

Start with a salad. One recent evening, a fresh pea and crispy pancetta salad was a wonderful special, but the shaved baby artichoke salad ($14) with lemon juice, black pepper, olive oil and Parmesan Reggiano also is not to missed.

"We focus on local ingredients, fresh ingredients," said Executive Chef Chuck Lesbirel. "We keep it as simple as possible to let the main ingredients shine."

The pea salad special is a perfect example of that, he said, with just five ingredients. The fresh peas were barely cooked and just needed a little lemon, olive oil and chopped mint.

"We put the peas in boiling water for 10 seconds," Lesbirel said. "Just enough to take the hard bite out of it." The peas are then plunged into ice water to stop the cooking process.

Then move on to the mussels — Ama is known for them. The Prince Edward Island mussels ($16) with toasted garlic, San Marzano tomato gravy and croutons of Brooklyn bread soaking up the sauce will have you dreaming about it the next day. And the secret ingredient that makes these mussels so memorable?

"Lots of love," Lesbirel said.

And, of course, the mussels are delivered fresh daily, which makes all the difference.

Another favorite that Lesbirel recommends is the rigatoni ($22): Italian sausage, English peas, tomato, cream and Parmesan Reggiano lightly coating the cooked-just-right rigatoni. Pretend you are in Italy, and share a pasta course before your entree — definitely worth the splurge.

For your entree, you can go with either meat or fish — both are delicious. One recent evening, an Atlantic halibut special was cooked to perfection and a good choice after the pasta. But if you love steak, go for the Florentine-style rib-eye ($36): 14 ounces, served sliced, covered in herbs and served with fingerling potatoes and sauteed spinach. So good.

Other menu items include the Mediterranean bronzino filet ($28) with soffrito, broccoli rabe, pine nuts and raisins; and the veal chop pizzaiola ($43) — a 16-ounce chop with a special sauce and buffalo mozzarella.

If possible, save room for dessert. The tiramisu ($9) — a huge hit according to Lesbirel — and the panna cotta ($8) both provide a light ending to the meal, but there also is a warm chocolate cake with chocolate sauce ($9) that is sure to satisfy every chocoholic.

And need I say the coffee ($3) here is good, too — hot and strong.

Lesbirel said that soon the stone fruits will be "awesome," so look for them on the menu. And, of course, he will be using Jersey peaches when they ripen.