Vintage Sarees

Have I posted this view of Gauhar Jaan before? It is a lovely one – very theatrical and nicely coloured – and worth another look! It was sent from Bombay by Alfred to Miss F. Cliffe in Surrey, for Christmas of 1914. The saree was draped in a particularly pretty style; pallu back to front showing off the stripes, and with an unusual blouse. Whenever I run across a photograph of this amazing performer, I feel as though I’ve found a keepsake from a long-departed friend.

This portrait was taken in a rather old fashioned studio setting, suggesting Victorian leftovers. But the diminutive model wears a cute, rather trendy blouse from perhaps the late ‘teens. She is shown barefoot with only simple bracelets and a ring or two. However, the saree has brilliantly shining bands of golden threads to enliven the costume of this demure girl who lived in or near Halvad, Gujarat. The town is known for its Brahmin population who host annual Laddoo-eating contests.

I have posted several 1940s – 1950s saree images that were photographed for Life Magazine, but don’t think I’ve written about this one before. It is so pure and clean that I find it tremendously appealing! My life and living space have been anything but that since I moved a few months ago.

The narrow contrast edging on both saree and blouse is elegant and utterly classic, very probably black. The model’s hair style is also beautifully simple, needing no jewellery or other adornments. Pretty darn close to perfection, don’t you think?

Here are “Four Girls from Gujurat” in amazing sarees from the mid-20th century. Some may be sisters, and they have clearly dressed for a special occasion for which each wears a wrist watch and holds a small handkerchief. While the lady at the right wears a traditional design, just look at the patterns on the sarees of the other three! Yes, I’m always wishing I had photographs in colour to see what was really being worn, but I think this group deserves a special mention for unique visual elements and the colours to go with them!

Actress Lillete Dubey was one of the best things about the “Indian Summers” television series. She always looked beautiful, well-dressed and elegant, even when the Parsi mother she played was having serious family issues. Most of the cast had character portraits made by the staff still photographer, Matt Brandon, a practiced hand with a camera. Set in 1932 Simla, the costume drama was an uneven soap opera dealing with a variety of personal and political themes – too many, actually.

Nearly all of the Indian women in speaking parts wore quite attractive sarees, and I loved all the cholis with puffed sleeves, a period touch we see in original images from the 1930s. Ms Dubey’s sari is a nice mix of subtle cocoa brown on beige, with a fresh turquoise and bright yellow. The design elements in the print are classic, and as correct for most of the 20th century as they are for today. I’m looking forward to the second season of “Indian Summers” to see how their costumers handle the later styles, going into the 1940s, I believe.

Here is Her Highness Chimnabai, Maharani of Baroda – one of my favorite people ever in India’s history. And this is how a fabulously wealthy thirty-something wife, mother and royal public figure wears her saree and choli when out after tigers.

Her pale choli is shaped like a modern tee-shirt with a crew neck and sleeves to the elbow, the hem pulled down over the waist area of the saree. The look is surprisingly sporty and modern condsidering it was worn 109 years ago. A sheer, dark saree is wrapped kaccha style, separating the legs to make walking through the underbrush easier. Her pallu is wrapped smoothly up the body and over the head. Note that Her Highness wears a bindi and almost no jewellery, but carries a very big gun!

This is not the only photograph I have seen of the petite Chimnabai out hunting while wearing sarees. Taken in April of 1906, I believe the added caption states that the tiger measured 8′ – 9″ in length. The Maharani and her family were strong supporters of free education for their subjects in Baroda as well as rights for women, a most unusual stance at that time.

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About US

Sunny is a designer in Los Angeles. He loves the fluidity and fluency of a saree and believes that when a woman wears a saree, she not only adorns her body but she also adorns her soul. His design ethos is that “simplicity never goes out of style.”

Indrani is a video journalist in Kuala Lumpur. She seamlessly blends east and west by doing the Bharat Natyam steps and Tango, without missing a beat. She has an infectious smile, a youthful sense of the fashion and a timeless sense of the style.

Rupa Gupta: A writer, editor and journalist, Rupa has been in the media for more than two decades. She has worked as Editor with major publications, both in India and abroad. a keen eye for fashion and current trends. Her sense of aesthetics transcends the hype and always finds the true beauty.

Liza Varma is a former Femina Miss India and well known model in Delhi. Today, she is a leading Fashion Choreographer with over 1000 shows to her credit in India and abroad. She is also a member of the Fashion Design Council of India and a Consultant with Shoot Talent Management. Her client list is the who’s who of Indian fashion industry.

Misty is a student in London and has her fingers on the pulse of London fashion industry.

Abhi is a student in San Francisco and showcases sensuous saree pictures.

Kamini is a model in Los Angeles and loves to accentuate the best a saree has to offer.