Tower Overview

This tower is part of the small Subgroup Pic Garin (3451m), place among the Walloons Grauson East and Arpisson on the opposite side, above Hamlet Gimillan (1787m) in the Cogne Valley. Practically this subgroup is the appendage of the Southern Group of Mont Emilius (3559m), starting from the Central Valley of Dora Baltea, looks to the Group of Gran Paradiso (4061m) to reach the Cogne Valley. A long Buttress South-southwest down from Peak Garin to finish above the two Villages Gimillan and Epinel (1436m); along the way various forms Summit: the two elevations of Pointe Fleurie or Punta Fiorito (3260/1m), three of Punta Lavà (3214m), Fleurie or Fiorito Pass (about 3170/80m), Arpisson Tower (3231m) and, after the Hill Pila Northeast (about 3090 metres), the three Tops of Coupées Arpisson (3215/18m, 3220/4m, 3231m) and the homonymous Punta (3035m). Here the dividing crest splits: a branch turns to the Southeast towards the rocky-grassy promontory Tsaplana (2681m), just above Gimillan or Dzimillan; the other sinks more in the Southwest constituting the extreme East side Arpisson Walloon.Topographic Note: from this point of view it should be noted that all these are aligned on the axis Summit North/South and present almost exclusively only two sides turned to the West over the Valley of Arpisson, at the base of the Wall South-southwest of Punta Garin, and to East to steep grassy slopes called locally Côtes de Lavà, high above the passage of Torrent de Lussert that, at the bottom, called the Torrent Gru (Great). Some ridges not in evidence mark the Face West, whereas the opposite, less articulate, is divided into two parts by a rocky outcrop from Punta Fleurie down towards East-southeast; the latter separates the Côtes by a small walloon, called the Chaz-Fleurie, at the foot of the Southeast Slope Punta Garin and the South of the Tour Grauson (3240m). The rugged, indented and long ridge that connects these two important Summits divides these secondaries walloons from that higher and far more extensive than the Walloon Grauson, branch Lussert, with his four beautiful lakes at the base of the Col des Laures (3036m), Punta homonymous (3367m) and the East Top Punta Rossa Emilius (3400m). On the opposite side instead is located along the Walloon of Arpisson from Garin Hill and Lake (2815m, 2854m) down to above the Villages Crétaz Epinel. A unique bivouac, Franco Nebbia (2740m), is located at the foot of West Face Garin, a little out of use for the climb to the Tower, but achievable by crossing up in average altitude towards Southeast.

This sector, although very close to the well known Cogne, has always been rarely visited even by the locals so that in my interview with the famous Mountain Guide Cogne Vincenzo Perruchon said "Cenzi" took place at the Hotel "Roccia Viva" in the early eighties the same, as was experienced hunter, I knew not provide information on this long mountain range, just above his house. The climbs of the same turned exclusively to start and at the end of the same, or to walk to Tita (Head) Tsaplana also called in loco Tsaplanne, the easy hike to Punta Arpisson (3035m) and the pyramid of Punta Garin. Said to be "Cenzi" that over there was upward every day or almost everything is to say, imagine for others who have not done a fold when they christened the Pointes "Couppì" (in reality Coupèes or Cut Summits) in Punte Coppi. Just above their home. Maybe it was necessary to turn to the old inhabitants of 1800, when they were called generically Vachères Summits, as to their base on the Eastern of the steep Côtes Lavà grazing cattle, but these unfortunately no longer exist, and even the cows are gone far from those steep pastures, as evidenced even from the ruined of Perché Pasture. Imagine then to the Tower Arpisson that remains hidden back there, compressed between Pila Northeast and Fiorito Hills and is not seen even from the village below. A place forgotten by the Mountaineers, as scarcely profitable, and even discarded by the Hunters, because they are too complicated to achieve and to cross. So we have to wait until the end of the '800 to see someone pass on these crests and only in August 13 of 1897 the tower is reached by George Yeld Mountain Guide Valtournanche François Pession (see "Alpine Journal XVIII°", n° 38 pages 517-525 and "RM CAI", p. 133); but more about that later in a small "Historical Note". Let's say though that the Compton and his party were fascinated by the view offered from this tower on the entire Valley Cogne, saying that he had nothing to envy from the now very famous of nearby Top of the Pousset (3046m).

Small Historical Remarks

This tower is not located in all the Old Maps, where is even logically unnamed. Under the same throughout the long Buttress South-southwest, descending from the Pic Garin reaches the Punta Arpisson (3035m), is signaled only the Punta Fiorito (Flowery) or Fleurie (3252 metres) which is assessed against 3260/1, as the latest surveys. As we have already announced in this Overview crest has not been sufficiently known in time and is therefore poorly attended; this applies not only to the Tower of Arpisson but throughout the watershed between the Walloons Arpisson West and Grauson-Chaz Fleurie opposite or East. Incidentally in those days were the highest Summit to draw the interest of the Pioneers of the Alps, so it is true that you have to wait until Summer 1856 to see the first ascent of the Pic Garin by Abbots Balthazar Chamonin and Pierre Chanoux; starting from Aosta Town and no one knows which way, but so this particular mattered little compared to their achievement "du Sommet". A few ascension in August of 1866 by the Abbé Aimé Gorret with Jean Pierre Carrel and four boys by East-southeast Slope from Chaz-Fleurie small and desolate Walloon, one on the opposite crest or of Arpisson Walloon by Officer of Alpine Troops Cesare Pavese with two soldiers of the 9a Company, in August 1875, and then is to "snoop" the famous Giovanni Bobba with the two of Cogne Edoardo Bèrard and Anselmo Perret, in September of 1886. But everything always turned to Garin and is likely to take place on the information and then fill in the famous "Guide of the Western Alps Graians and Pennine, 1896" in collaboration with Luigi Vaccarone. But, before it is edited this Guidebook, the first day of September 1894 there's more "curious"; are the British C. Baker, C. and F. W. Hiatt Oliver accompanied by no other than from the very famous Swiss Guide Alexander Burgener. They want to climb the Ridge Southwest, still a virgin, but we understand that they do not know the territory: instead of going to the Northwest into the walloon below Arpisson go to the Northeast in that Grauson then, probably recommended by those Mountaineers Cogne that to go to the Garin pass through this part, enter the Chaz-Fleurie a wild and secondary walloon. Awaits them a nasty surprise, because the South Buttress-southwest to bar their way. "Pas des problèmes", are certainly not the hocks and the breath to our lack. Undaunted climb to Colle Fiorito (about 3170/80 metres), bypassing over the buttress and "voila" are on true track. Down in the Walloon of Arpisson doing so the first crossing of the Col Fleurie, cross Glacier Garin, then still existing, and you carry on the great Shoulder of Garin (3207/8m); with some bypass to the West in the end reach the Summit. When will there in September 18th, 1902 Abbé Henry Guide Grégoire Comé Charvensod not known this ascension and thinks have made him for first. Horses of breed, indeed real mules! But in those days seemed things "normal", as the Mountaineers had "other legs" and completely different Mindset.

Pic Garin climbing on S-SW Buttress, by Osw

They are the first to set foot on this spur, then comes the "wanderer" British Mountaineer George Yeld, which first goes, at the beginnig of the summer 1897, to take a look at the hill of the Southwest for to explore, with the two Guides Valtournanche François and Sylvain Pession, and then with the first time on the Tower of Arpisson, August 13th, 1897. When a week right after arrive W.C. Compton and A.V. Valentine Richard accompanied by the same Alexander and Siegfried Burgener, downhill via the South Ridge of Garin, find the small stone cairn on Summit of Yeld. While Yeld was down towards the Northeast to reach a wide circle, having found the road blocked by a rock wall, the Huts of Grauson, they descend to Southeast recommending this route in "Alpine Journal, 1897 ", XVIII ° n. 38, pages 517-25, and to observe the way: "... this is not the top of the point indicated altitude 3252 I.G.M., in the "Climbers Guide" called Punta Arpisson; its appearance is the most impressive of the latter waves seemed more appropriate to his ascent, call Tower instead Punta ... is likely to become popular: it is a better vantage point of the much-vaunted Pousset and, although no controls on an expansive view as Garin, has the advantage of being up one side and down the other ." Sic! For eighty and one (81!) years you will not see more anyone, but at least now it has a name. Is in fact reached again September 17th, 1978 during the first complete crossing by "Cornass" of Arpisson to Peak Garin. Another climb the record probably in the summer of 1980 or 1981 by Prof. Franco Brevini and Companions, but through the Pila Northeast Pass from Western Slope or from Arpisson Walloon; then you have to wait until the beginning of the 2000s when Erik Rosazza with a climbing partner reach in the winter (first ascent) as in the previous route and then crossing to the Garin. In a previous attempt of January 08th, 1978 Osvaldo Cardellina Lamazzi with Giuseppe and Marco Cossard had reached the Pass Pila Northeast starting from Gimillan and navigating to Tsaplana, Punta Arpisson and all three Pointes Coupées d'Arpisson; the last one had stopped to Punta Arpisson, while the other two had been "surprised" by the darkness o the Hill Northeast, then performing a thrilling descent without light in the canyon of around 1000 metres above the Wateralls of Pila near the homonym Pasture (around 2000m, 2021m) with return to Gimillan Hamlet to Midnight. In addition to two ascents solitary Osvaldo Cardellina (see First Ascents) on the Southwest Wall and downward direct Face West, do not know more both climbs the Tower of Arpisson, excluding Punta Arpisson, that the South Buttress-southwest. In confirmation as discussed just above.

Getting There

Over Gimillan Hamlet with Grauson Walloon, by livioz

Getting There

By Car:
From Turin or Milan: Motorway A5. Exit in Aosta Ovest. Drive to the near Aymavilles; follow in the direction of Cogne Valley. Or Exit Aosta East to Gr. Brissogne and St. Marcel.
From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the homonym Pass). Drive to Aosta, then follow Courmayeur direction on SS.26. Just after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Cogne Valley, the main side valley in the South after the City of Aosta.
From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass). It isn't necessary to enter in Motorway A5, you can drive through SS.26 Aosta direction. Before arriving at the Village of Sarre, follow the sign and turn right towards the Valley of Cogne.

Gimillan Village above Cogne-Resort, by livioz

Specific Roads

After Aymavilles Municipality, the Regional Road n° 47 crosses the Villages of Vieyes(1158m; ancient small Sainct Grat Church with various frescoes), Epinel (1436m) and Crétaz(1534m) and after about 25 Km. arrives at Cogne (1534m; important Seat of P.N.G.P. since 1922). Follow the road signs for Gimillan and Lillaz (renowned three waterfalls); arrived at a round-about, recently built in proximity of the St. Anthony Chapel, go left along the scenic route leading to the small Villages of Montròz(1702m), Gimillan (1787m); 1,5 and 3 Km. after Cogne Center. Usually no parking problem neeighbor the bell tower of a little chapel in center (ten seats for cars; stone fountain below the bell tower), also near the bridge above Gimillan Torrent (small parking in soil nearby the asphalt road).

By Plane:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).

Road towards Montròz & Gimillan Hamlets, by SalVal

Approaches

Approaching from Gimillan amongst ibexes, by OliettiPaolo

Approach A from "Low" Grauson Valloon:

From Gimillian center (1787m) agrees, passing the small road that double the Bell Tower on the left near an old and beautiful stone fountain, go up to the upper parking lot at the Playground (1814m) or continue even through the narrow asphalt road to the sign ban in altitude 1850 metres about, just before a hairpin with small votive chapel of 1926. Here we start with a route n° 3/TVC, reaching the tiny Village of Pian di Teppe (1923m). Note: you can avoid this stretch by a brief path-shortcut into the woods that goes between this alp and this more in bottom of Serve (1923m), arriving at an intersection shortly before the next fork); from this point, where also ends the farm road, follow it to the Northwest the same to the junction around 1970/80 metres where you leave, continuing the same into the Vallon below Arpisson. Instead continue to the right (Northeast; wooden signpost on a tree) with path n° 3B; after a long diagonal one enters a loop that runs through a small and secondary walloon with an exposed path you reach a wooded area before an esplanade with scattered blocks. Turning to the North with hairpin bends you reach the point 2247 metres under a rock feature; leave the same on the left and again with direction Northeast reach the hairpin 2362 metres which came shortly before the ancient Alp Perché (2398m; now abandoned and in ruins). Continue for a short time with this direction but then change in Northwest reaching a strip of crumbling rocks (2503m) which easily crosses. Immediately below the path, becoming steeper, runs along the right bank of a grassy gully (attention to the crossing in case of snow or very consistent) to fold in toward the southwest in the direction of a grassy plateau just below the Summit. A short right turn leads to the statue of the Madonna on the Top (EE/F; 2h'00/2h'30 but in winter even 3h'00/4h'00 Gimillan).

Approach B from the Vallon of Arpisson with departure from Gimillan or Epinel Hamlets:
the Pian di Bessey (Bessey Tableland), before Franco Nebbia Bivouac and Garin Hill, can also be reached from the Valley Cogne crossing in his entirety the Walloon of the Arpisson with departure from the Fraction of Epinel (1452m) or, preferably, reaching the Pastures of Arpisson (2328m; spring) after a long crossroad from the Village of Gimillan (1787m), through the path n° 3/TVC. From these, to climb the entire walloon through a small but very good path that crosses it in his mean and, left to the left the deviation for the Hill Tsa Setze, to reach an ample tableland known as Pian Bessey (Tableland; spring), having to the shoulders for the whole slope the spectacular perspective to the Grivola (around 2550/70 metres; 1h'45/2h'15 from Gimillan). Otherwise from Epinel Village (1430m) instead you can reach the Arpisson Alpage with trail n° 2, which crossed the Torrent Arpisson to the Northeast of the same name, first reach the Alpagee de Teuvre (1792m) and then changing the direction in Northwest, to Tsavanis Pasture (1859m, where comes the path n° 3A, starting from Gimillan). The last stretch more to the North, crossed again the torrent to the Alp Arpisson (2328m; E; 2h'15/2h'45).

Approach C going from "Low" Vallon of Grauson by arriving to Arpisson:
always from the parking lot in the center of Gimillian Village (1787m) with the previous route, via the route n° 3/TVC, until the junction about 1970/80 metres after the Alp/Village Pian Teppe where not abandon, going instead into the walloon below Arpisson through a long diagonal to the Northwest that first path with enough exposed in South, crossing the Comba Vachère and other small secondaries walloons, then moves into a more open, reaching the small saddle 2317 metres. This is placed at the end of the Southwest Ridge of Punta Arpisson and immediately below those small and crooked horns called by the inhabitants "Cornas dell'Arpisson" (2751m, 2607m); a short descent diagonally leads to a walkway above the Torrent Arpisson under a water outlet. Forded the same and with a short climb with hairpin bends you reach the nearby pasture (E/F; 1h'30/1h'45). Also you can avoid the same on his right reaching the small water intake, earning a quarter hours but losing a nice stop, and continuing to the bottom of the walloon in the midst of small springs gradually cross the moraine below the rocky ribs of Punta Arpisson up to the altitude of about 2590/2600 metres. A long steep trail easily, but rather laboriously, leads to the above mentioned traits grassy-detrital towards Pila Southwest Hill (around 3028 metres; EE/F+; 3h'00/3h'30 from Gimillan).

Neighbor the fork about 1970/80 metres by Gimillan & the midst-part of the Arpisson Vallon towards of Pian di Bessey, by livioz

Routes

Tour of Arpisson from West or Punta della Valletta (3090m), by emilius

From Gimillian Hamlet (1787m) to reach Arpisson Alp (2328m) with the Approaches B with departure from the Fraction of (1452m) also through C. From this continue with the small path n° 2/TVC towards Col Garin (2815m), reaching the Pian di Bessey and a source under a typical boulder in altitude of about 2525 metres (watering places for the cows and the horses that found in area); hence abandon the same going in the East through stony ground. Exceeded in progression the points 2543, 2719, 2738 metres, leaving on the left (North) a groove torrential dried, a clear commitment to the Tower of Arpisson, leaving a higher characteristic alluvial fan formed over a large rock and reddish rounded. Climb the stony ground, which becomes increasingly steep, up to the rocky rib lower that "dips" itself into moraine. From this there are two possibilities: 1)- follow the gully to the left diagonal, generally stony, which cuts into two parts the West Wall, following the way of the first climbers 1897. The same "flows", having edged right a rock band that narrows at the Top, on the North-northeast Ridge, nearby the Fleurie or Fiorito Pass (about 3170/80 metres) not far away from the Summit. With this, circumventing or climbing quite easily the different turrets/pinnacles, in a short time you reach the North Summit (3218m); from this you have to cross a series of six turrets that with fun and not difficult climbing to bring to the South-southwest to the true Top (3231 m; A/ from PD+ to AD, depending on selected passages and climbing on the edge; 2h '45/3h'15 Pian di Bessey; 4h'45/5h'15 Gimillan). This path is quite exposed to falling rocks, while, if with hard snow, the gully (43°/47°) has many other difficulties.2)- reached the detour towards the gully diagonal leave this on the left, continuing instead directly to steep rocky ground with fine debris, that are wedged between the Tower and the Arpisson Northeast Summit of Pointes Coupées d'Arpisson. When the channel narrows between the Southwest Wall of the Tower and a spur that descends from Pointes Coupées, to continue flexing slightly to the right with winding path, zigzagging between some small rocky bands and blocks, go against to the short but enough steep wall below the Hill of Pila Northeast (around 3090 metres); quite easily overcome this trait that, in the presence of "verglass phenomena", may create instead some problems. From the pass turn to the North and, after a first stroke just steep, continue climbing not difficult (I°/I°+) reaching the Crest South-southwest, by a wavy crest line with small bumps, a first elevation 3187 metres. And soon after, with a more linear path that reaches a terrace and a double small Ante Summit immediately before the Tooth South-southwest, which is the highest point and where it is still in existence the small stone cairn by George Yeld (A/ by PD- to PD, depending on the conditions of the gully, also calculating 1h'00 more in case of ice on the rocks under the hill; 0h'20/0h '30 from Pila NE Pass; 2h'00/2h'30 from Pian di Bessey; 4h'00/4h'15 from Gimillan).

Downhill: back through the second of the two-way, or, in the case of "verglass" in the terminal below the hill, down on the opposite side or East almost certainly devoid of this element. A channel of rocks rather steep falls for about 180/220 metres; follow the same but, as soon as the opportunity presents itself, leave it out on the right towards the higher part of the Côtes Lavà. From these cross towards Southeast on fairly steep slopes grassy-rocky in the direction of the Tsaplana or flow into the canyon that descends from the Pointes Coupées and reach the path above the Alp Perché (2398m; abandoned and in ruins), whence Gimillan. You absolutely can not leave "carry himself" from the gully below the hill with almost 1000 metres in vertical converges with rocky ledges and slopes quite steep over the Waterfalls of the Pila Pasture in the Lower Vallon Grauson.