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Hi my name is***** am a diagnostic technician and look forward to working with you.I have checked the part number you provided. That part is directly coded to the engine ECU so unfortunately it will need to be programmed to the car. Based on the symptoms you described, it sounds like there is a fault with the eeprom or hardware on the immb control unit so replacing or repairing will be the only cure. Any Audi main dealer or specialist should be able to program the new/used control unit. Alternatively companies such as BBA Reman http://www.bba-reman.com may be able to repair so no programming will be needed. I hope I’ve provided the information you were seeking. If you need more help, please use the reply tab to continue our conversation. If you do not require further assistance, kindly rate my service. Thank you, Ross.

Dear Ross, Thx for your reply. However, gone thru lots of forums most common issue on this particular vehicle is the link cable from the steering column to the part I mentioned 4A0 953 234. But the other common fault is the actual coil behind the key barrel is NOT sending the correct voltage to the immo ctrl box are the 2 key prime reason. I am very much sure do not need to change this part as mentioned above. It appears you are a Honda specialist not the Audi? Thx.

I Am experienced with all makes/models, specializing in VW/Audi and HondaApologies, I thought the part number you gave was the part you were wanting to replace based upon your diagnosis. If you are only replacing the transponder coil pack, there is no need to program it to the controller, it is a case of plug and play. The coding is purely between the engine ECU and Immob control unit.

Thx . The transponder coil pack is behind the Ignition key hole is with the black plack cover around? Any idea for easy removal. Because using the Launch X3 master scanner gave the fault code as the low voltage reading is the kind of indication once car is started the cuts off? Cheers.

Replacement is very simple, it is a case of removing the steering wheel cowling, disconnecting the two pin connector and unclipping the coil from barrel. If the fault code is showing voltage low circuit failure, or a code of a similar description, it is usually the coil although could be the control unit.Normal immobilizer function is to allow the engine to start before cutting out after 2 seconds so if this is what happens, the immobiliser is simply unable to receive a code from the key. A low voltage related fault code on the immob receiver circuit is a sure sign that the coil is defective.

I have already dismantle the steering wheel and other bits to easy access for work. Now to thake the coil out just prise out the black circle part? or any catches? Nothing obvius. The black ring part it appears just slot in on the metal part of the key barrel. You mean just prise out withe flat screw driver? Then when I put the new on just pust it in? Thx.

Yes, the plastic ring will separate from the barrel It should be fairly straight forward. If you have the new part to hand, take a look at it to see how it fits in place. It can make it a lot easier to get on and off. The new one will just push back on.

I have checked the parts system for a diagram, There will either be a tab holding it on, or it clips over the barrel depending on which system it has. They changed the immobliser system in 1995 for some models. If yours is the earlier type from memory the coil sits in a recess. There is either a screw or a release on the earlier platform. If there is no obvious screw, try inserting the paper clip, push it firmly and use a small flat bladed screw driver to remove the coil from the barrel

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