With over 1.5 million page views, Le Noeud Papillon's blog continues to provide lovers of bow ties with unique stories and content relating to menswear through interviews with industry icons and vignettes into topics relating to suits, shirts, shoes, ties, designers, weavers and much more.

Above is one of our smoking jackets that we are doing made to order only. The colours can be changed to have a contrasting shawl and cuff with the body. You may order traditional frogging with velvet body or you can have quilted satin silk all over. It's made to order so we need you to have yourself measured at home. We suggest measuring with a jacket on. The key measures we are looking for are the length you require (usually the same as what you might have on a blazer), the sleeve length, your chest, your waist, your arms. Mostly our smoking jackets are made to wear at home in a comfortable manner whilst watching the news and potentially, if anyone still does it, smoking a pipe or a cigarette. As many of you know already, smoking jackets are derived from the Orient and were used after dinner when the men adjourned to another room to smoke a pipe by the fire after removing their dinner jackets. It's function is merely to be a jacket which it was okay to ash on as opposed to your dinner jacket. It's not a replacement of a dinner jacket, but merely something to use before or after dinner for the purposes of lounging.

We've been fielding a lot more enquiry for them of recent, so much so that this could be a new trend. Here's hoping that it does become one because they are visually so pleasing to see. See our current range here

The expression to 'fobb off' in one context suggests that the act is to 'dispose of goods by fraud or deception; to palm off'. I think this expression wonderfully conveys my sentiments towards the whole Gatsby throng.

The theme was so unique and fantastic in 2008 when I first told a certain Australian film director about my idea. At the time he was drinking in my bar in Kings Cross and was licking his wounds after a period of shame over his previous work.

It was only after he took off with my idea and reneged on a verbal agreement many months later that I began to see the slow crystallisation of something which had it's genesis in a little bar I had called the Shh Speakeasy. And little by little the Jazz Age was beginning to be celebrated bit by bit. A white 3 piece suit by Ralph Lauren here, a reference to Nick Carraway there, bow ties get a feature article in a newspaper, Woody Allen gets out Midnight In Paris and it's a huge success, someone writes an article on Bricktop..... And then boom, you are in the middle of a trend.

The sad part about a trend though is that it must have it's moment and then be gone. But it never leaves when you want it to. It never shuts the shop after a good days trade. It instead lingers and gets thrashed and thrashed over and over and over until it goes from being something which was conceptually so unique, so revered, so loved, so cherished - the of way you first look upon Shakespeare and Co after crossing the Notre Dame and you think 'how quaint' until you hear all those American voices inside the store and you feel like you've been duped and it's just the sound stage of a different kind of Disneyland and you better get in line.

The difference between something giving you great joy and happiness and to hating it with all your heart, is repetition. The first time I heard Gotye's 'Somebody That I Used To Know' it kept me up all night thinking and my heart was filled with hope and opportunity. Now I purposefully make sure it is kept in a separate folder so that I don't accidentally slot it onto my SD card.

My meditation instructor, Limor Babai, very good at what she does, asked her Monday night group what we thought heaven was. And stupidly, one of the group suggested some tropical island getaway with pina coladas and a bungalow on the beach. Limor then said 'now imagine you couldn't get off the island and you couldn't drink anything else accept pina coladas. Is this not some form of hell?'

The same can be said of the Gatsby trend. It seems it won't depart us until it's been thrashed to death, until every single friend has had a Gatsby party, until the word makes you physically ill and when someone says it with any zest you just feel like giving them a big ol' slap.

The saddest thing I can think of is that I would love there to be a remake of Casablanca, my only great fear is that they would wheel out Leonardo Di Caprio to play Rick, they would get Jay Z to do the music and play Sam and they'd attempt to turn Nicole Kidman into Elsa. Then everyone would call their cafe Rick's and Knock On Wood would become the number one hit of the year by Gotye.... Please Harvey Weinstein and the important power brokers of Hollywood, don't do this. Let us not ruin the sanctity of that last unbroken institution of Rick's Cafe Americain - because right now I just wish Gatsby would fobb off.

Do you like this portrait? I created this portrait from an image I took in Rome in 2008. I used the Procreate App to bring the image into Procreate and then I began to trace over my original photo. This work took me no more than 2 hours to complete. Are you interested in joining our self-portrait competition to win $500.00 AUD? The Procreate App costs approx. $5.49 and you can create the most marvelous self-portraits. Enter our self-portrait competition here

Monday, August 26, 2013

In this final installment, George from Centennial Dry Cleaners tells us about clothes brushes and how to care for your shirts.

George, regarding clothes brushes – my
underground informant Oppenheimer often raves on about clothes brushes and how
they can save a suit and prolong it’s life. Oppenheimer thinks he knows
absolutely everything, is this true and if so, can you explain to me what sort
of clothes brushes one should purchase and do you have a preferred brand?

I still have my father’s clothes brush which I first saw him use 40 years ago. It is an English maple clothes brush with natural bristles. 100% natural bristles are best of all. Synthetic brushes have less ‘give’ and because they are hard they can scratch the fabric.

Traditional Clothes Brush

Also synthetic brushes will wear out relatively quickly, whereas a natural bristle brush will last a lifetime. The price a clothes brushes ranges from around $15 to $100. There are many available on the internet and as long as it has natural bristles you can’t really go wrong.

Clothes brushes take off the surface dirt and dust but to be effective they must be used the correct way. Brushing should never be a scrubbing movement, it should be a strong sweeping motion and all strokes should be in the same direction. You should first brush the nap – ie brush against the lie of the material – then brush down for a smooth finish.
Ideally you should brush your suit or jacket every time you wear it in order to protect them and increase their life.

I would also recommend you should have a velvet – faced lint brush to be used on finely woven and softer materials. This type of brush is ideal for picking up fluff, hair or clinging particles. They are also readily available and cost around $10.00.

With respect to cotton shirts, I have often told our readers what I was told by my shirt maker, which is that the best way to wash them is to soak them in nappy san for the night and then put them on a rinse cycle in a washing bag and iron them after they are near dry but still moist. What is the process by which you wash shirts and do you know of any ‘superlative’ techniques for this kind of garment?

Shirts should last about 50 to 60 washings, providing they are not abused. Abuse comes in many ways and the following conditions can shorten the life of a shirt;

-Machine washing with a long, hot cycle.

-Clothes dryers

-Wearing shirts more than once without washing

-Heavy beards or stubble rubbing on collar

-Use of cologne and after shave, without immediate washing and attention

-Watchbands and jewellery can fray cuffs

-Heavy and regular use of starch

-Deodorant ( be sure to rinse out deodorant and perspiration asap

-Lack of rotation. Like shoes and suits shirts should be rotated and worn maybe once every 2 weeks.

All these conditions and habits shorten the life of shirts, but wearing them more than once without washing is the biggest reason for the ‘grubby’ collar and ‘dingy’ looking shirts. Also, most shirtmakers advocate little or no starch because it can make the fabric brittle, which can lead to premature tearing. If you use starch consider going 2-3 weeks with no starch every month or so to ‘rinse out’ residual deposits.

Soaking every shirt over night and then rinsing them in net bags is very time consuming and probably overkill. I think that machine washing in a front loader (the spindle in a top loader is too aggressive) in a delicate cycle, line dry, then iron when only slightly dry is an excellent process. It is the hot water, clothes dryers, and too much mechanical action that damages cotton shirts.

If you are time poor or dislike ironing shirts like most people, a good quality dry cleaner will do just as good a job if not better. They will generally wash your shirts in warm water, pre treat the stains when required, and finish them on a high end shirt unit when the shirt is wet. I would recommend dry cleaning any silk, rayon, viscose, or good quality dark coloured shirts (navy, black etc) as they will look better, fade less, and last longer.

Suits and sports jackets are an important part of any mans wardrobe and they often make a lasting impression. Each fabric, style and shape is distinctive and requires individual attention. Wool suit fabric is popular due to its durability, breathability, and ease of wear. Wool quality is judged by the thinness of the wool fibre, measured in microns (one micron is one-millionth of a meter). The thinner the fibre the more desirable, comfortable, and expensive the fabric and the best quality wool comes from Merino sheep. Good grades are Super 100 to Super 150’s which has a tighter weave and limits creasing and wrinkles.

Mens suits are graded 1 to 6, according to the number of hand operations used to create the final product. 1 is all machine made and 6 is made entirely by hand, such as 'bespoke' or 'custom made' suits. The main two types of wool suit fabric are woollen and worsted, the difference is in whether the fibres are combed for smoothness. Woollens are not combed, leaving a thick, plush pile. Worsteds are combed making them smooth and lighter in weight. The heavier woollen suits tend to wear better and are not as prone to small nicks and scratches etc,

Regarding washing suits at home once again always stick to the manufacturers care label instructions. Some unlined cotton suits may be gentle machine washed depending on the colour. Light colours should be fine but dry cleaning a black or navy cotton suit at a quality dry cleaner will always keep the colour longer.

As to how often should you dry clean your suit depends on many things such as how often you wear it, your environment, how long is it worn for, and whether it gets stained.
For example you may get 6 or 8 general wears out of your work suits as a general guideline but if you go to a dance club and perspire all night leaving the body salts etc in the fibre you should dry clean it within a few days. Also heavy rain or beverage spillages should be removed quickly.

There is a misconception that regular dry cleaning ruins garments, this is only true if the dry cleaner does not use the appropriate solvent, process or program, or does not finish the garment with the appropriate technique and pressing equipment. It is important for your dry cleaner to regularly change the cloth press pads to prevent the unsightly shine you may see on dark coloured worsted suits.

What sort of stains can I try and remove at home by spotting?

The subject of spotting stains at home can open a huge ‘can of worms’. There are people and websites that specialise only in this subject. As a general rule the heavier fabrics and lighter colours are less susceptible to damage than the delicate darker fabrics. It also depends on the stain. Stay with me here. For example a small coffee stain may be blotted out of a wool jacket with a tiny amount of soap and warm water and a white cloth. However, to use the same method on a red or navy silk tie or shirt may result in colour loss. A gentle rub on a white or cream cotton shirt or trouser will not result in colour loss as there is no real colour to lose.

Without getting too technical, too safely treat stains on your own, you must first recognize and understand the difference between water-based and oil based stains.
Most water based stains like coffee, wine, milk, perspiration have a clear outline around the stain.
Most oil-based stains like salad dressings, fries, food and car grease and most make-up are absorbed into the fabric, have no outline and look dark and blotchy.

Most water based stains come out with detergent and water but you may need to pre-treat some difficult stains like red wine, fruit, or tomato based stains.
Some oil stains can be removed at home on washable clothes with a pre-treatment like Preen but better garments should be left for a skilled dry cleaner.

I have often been in a restaurant and seen guys spill food or drink on their tie and they usually dip their napkin in water and start rubbing. This is just wrong. You can blot the stain with a dry clean napkin but never rub. This breaks fibres, loses sheen, fades the colour, and can even bleed dies. Further, rubbing water on an oily type stain can ‘set’ the stain and limit further removal by your dry cleaner.

Finally, every time you tighten the knot or touch your tie or bow tie, you deposit oils and soil from your hands onto the fabric. You should wash your hands before putting on and removing your ties, and hand or roll them to allow the wrinkles to fall out.

How do I care for my wool and cashmere jumpers/ pullovers?

If a new jumper is dry cleaned in a short gentle cycle in a net bag or hand washed the proper way it should not lose its sheen or lustre. There may be the odd exception as some manufactures use a large amount of sizing that may come out in its first clean, but this is rare. The best way to hand wash a good quality jumper is to use baby shampoo or a cashmere wash like Woolite. Use sparingly and dissolve completely in cool to lukewarm water. Press suds through the garment gently without wringing or twisting and soak for 3 to 5 minutes. Dry flat on a towel away from heaters or direct sun.

If there are any stains or the jumper has been pulled out of shape I would recommend dry cleaning as they have the benefit of being able to re-bloch it on a steam press.

Pilling is caused by abrasion; the more friction to which an area of the fabric, the more likely it will pill. Contributing factors include the weave (looser weaves tend to pill more), the length of the fibres (shorter ones pill more; cheaper wool/cashmere is made from shorter staples), the strength of the fibres (softer wool is made from thinner fibres, so finer wool may pill more than coarse), and the blend (blends generally pill more than non blends because the different fibres can abrade and separate).

The colour should not have anything to do with it, but it’s possible that some dye treatments could weaken the fibres more than others. Spending more often buys you better fabric that’s less prone to pilling, but not always.

Pilling usually results from rubbing against upholstered furniture or car seats and against your arms when you walk. You can ‘shave’ off pills – with a disposable razor or battery operated shaver – but remember that pills contain yarns. When you remove pills you are also removing yarns and thinning the fabric. If you do shave pills, be careful of snagging and go slowly.

Oppenheimer has been out of action the poor bugger. The final days of the Australian winter has been crippling quite a few of us antipodeans as a prelude to the allergies of spring.... For some, it is much like Jason Alexander once said of himself 'I never had a good year, the day my braces came off, my hair started falling out'. Alas, poor Oppenheimer can't catch a break at the moment much like Castanza.

But it was in the late part of the evening that I got a Whatsapp message from him to say that he was alive but not very well. What amazes me about Oppenheimer is that even when he is down and out with the flu he still has time to trawl social media and to comment on young fashion designers, marvel at the style of dead people from Time magazine photos and send me articles from the Spectator on the decline of the British middle class whilst screen capturing twitty things people say and write on Facebook. I guess you can't stop a big cranium like that from turning.

But the reason I write this post is because within the ridiculous hash tags and selfies that Opps was quoting I recalled a wonderful expression my old therapist once told me about people carrying on both in their private and social media lives. They are called, I am told, Very Special Snowflakes and in some cases it is ended with Syndrome.... I usually like to be clued up on the latest insults but this one I had not heard before and as my therapist explained, it referred to the fact that no two snow flakes are alike, they are all different, so to be a Very Special Snowflake is to be the kind of person that deems themselves worthy of special treatment despite the fact that they are no different from anybody else in their uniqueness. I love it. I have probably over baked the whole thing by trying to describe it in this passage but I think in this world of individual expression, of blogs, of Facebook, of Instagram, when we all believe we ought to be heard, well, perhaps I ought to out myself as a Very Special Snowflake! I hope it makes you laugh, it certainly lifted Oppenheimer's spirits on his sick bed.

A few weeks ago I met George Masselos of Centennial Dry Cleaners. We began talking on the subject of caring for your wardrobe and so began one of the more lengthy discourses we've posted on this blog which is why we are going to break it down into parts because this is great information and you need to digest it piecemeal.

Hello Le Noeud Papillon, it is great to have the chance to speak to your readers who love their silk, velvet, cotton and wool just like I do. My name is George Masselos and I own and operate Centennial Dry Cleaners in Sydney. I’ve owned these businesses since 1993 after leaving a career in merchant banking. Sounds funny but it was the best thing I ever did.

Centennial Dry Cleaners has won many local and State awards including NSW Dry Cleaner of the year twice. I have been a Board Director of the National Dry Cleaning Institute since 2002 and I am the current President of the NSW branch. We are one of only two dry cleaners in Australia that uses all 5 cleaning solvents, Perc, Hydrocarbon, GreenEarth, White Spirit, and Water. I really enjoy the dynamic nature of my industry as it combines retail, customer service, high tech machinery and equipment, and finding the right balance between a high quality product and service and efficient production levels. So, I still use a lot of skills I learnt in my former career.

George, what is ‘Dry Cleaning’?

Dry cleaning is the process of washing fabrics with a liquid other than water. Dry cleaning solvents dissolve oils, grease, and fats which are not water soluble. These solvents do not swell natural fibres as does water, one of the major causes of shrinkage. In laundering the solvent used is water. The dry cleaning industry started over 100 years ago in England. The solvents and machines we use today have developed considerably through new technology which has resulted in the safe and effective dry cleaning process we have today.
After the garments have been cleaned they come out of the machines dry and need to be pressed and ‘finished’. This finishing process involves steaming, pressing, and hand ironing to recreate that ‘as new’ look again.
The main solvent used for many decades has been Perc which is an excellent stain remover and is still used today. Hydrocarbon is a more versatile solvent being a litte less aggressive hence better for delicates such as silks and anything with beads and sequins. However, there has been a real move towards more environmental friendly solvents such as GreenEarth. GreenEarth replaces petroleum based solvents with liquid silicone, and is a very gentle solvent which is made from sand.

Can you tell us what we can wash at home?

The most correct and simple answer to this question is to follow the care label instructions on every garment. Many fibres, fabrics, finishes and ornamentations require particular care treatment such as dry clean only or hand wash only at 40 degrees. Unsuitable treatments can cause damage such as running colours, shrinkage or melting as a result of excessive heat or the incorrect solvent used (water or one of the three dry cleaning solvents).

To expand, most cotton jeans, pants, tops and jumpers are usually washable. To keep their colour and shape it is best to use cold or lukewarm water on a gentle cycle and preferably in a front load washer as the spindle in a top loader can be too aggressive and damage the garments. With jeans and cotton pants I always put them inside out to reduce the rubbing so they will keep their colour longer. Jumpers can also be hand washed using a mild detergent like Lux flaks or wool wash but it is important not to spin dry them and to dry them flat.

If however you have a difficult stain that is not water based such as oil, grease, fat, lipstick, some inks and paints, wax, gum, glue, etc it is best to take it to a good quality dry cleaner, preferably one that is a member of their Dry Cleaning Association. Further, garments that you should never wash are lined garments such as coats, jackets, dresses, ties, lined pants as the outer fabric and the lining will expand and shrink at different rates causing puckering and distortion which sometimes will not be able to be restored.

What about silk cleaning and restoration?

Silk is universally accepted as ‘the’ luxury fabric and is a continuous filament fibre produced by the silk worm. As you rightly point out Nicholas two of the biggest issues with silk are colour loss and loss of lustre. Be aware that perspiration, some deodorants, alcohol, and any solution containing alcohol such as after shave, perfume, and cosmetics can combine to create discolouration, colour loss and deterioration of silk fibres. If any stains occur you should never attempt to remove them by rubbing and especially when damp – silk fibres are delicate and easily damaged. If stains on silk are left for a month or more they will be much more difficult to remove and will start to oxidise on the lighter coloured silks.

Regarding dry cleaning we process all silk garments in a delicate short cycle with a lower temperature and ties are placed in a net bag. Many silks can be hand washed (not ties or lined garments, check the care label) and hang dry but you should always test for colour fastness on an inside seam with a white hanky or cotton bud. The following silk fabric, depending on colour fastness, can usually be wet cleaned; raw, spun, jacquard, pongee, shantung, and Tussah. The following should not be wet cleaned; chiffon, taffeta, satin, crepe, gabardine, and velvet silk.

Some silk garments such as wedding dresses and some evening wear are heavily sized to add addition luster and sheen. It is a little like starch in a cotton shirt that acts as a filler or glaze. It can deteriorate in washing and dry cleaning and only very few professional cleaners offer the service to resize a garment. It is very rarely requested and is a timely and ‘fidely’ process often for one garment. A more common way of restoring a silk item which most dry cleaners can offer is to use a silk finish or rebloom solution. This is great to restore colour loss or loss of lustre. The garment is soaked in a silk finish which is a mixture of dry cleaning fluid and a type of mineral oil, then briefly spun dry in the dry cleaning machine then hand pressed.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

It is almost sad to see the end of the project but this is what it is all about, the final work. The journey, in this particular instance, has been as fascinating as the destination, which is why I was so keen for Daniel Jean-Baptiste to document the process. His process is what drives people to his YouTube channel here. For those of you who have not had enough of a fix of this medium over the past few days, why not log on to Daniel's page and my recommend is the video for his underwater turtle.

Completed, the finished habotai silk painting for Le Noeud Papillon by textiles artist Daniel Jean-Baptiste who is inspired by the tropical surrounds of his home island of St Lucia in the Carribean

Cameron Carter is one of the new voices of blogging in Australia. His blog, Carter Post, which commenced a couple of months ago, is attempting to bring together new influences in a variety of mediums from runway rundowns to the latest in film, furniture and architecture. I asked him a few questions on his new blog and his venture into the world of public relations. VISIT CAMERON'S BLOGCameron, the sphere of blogging has been overrun by new voices, each with a particularangle and a new reason for being. Carter Post has already developed it’s own personality, buthow would you describe it and what are you seeking to offer the readers that they won’t find anywhere else?
Interestingly, the FELTT GROUP advocate that the shift in power now lies with the individual, a
“peoples voice” style of reckoning. And I agree, but the international mastheads will always, in
our lifetime, hold a currency, they’ve been embedded into our psyche. But I digress. For me,
Carter Post is a lifestyle perspective from which I can support my clients and develop a dialogue
centered around my own likes and dislikes. I guess my point of difference is that I’m not looking
to engage a cult following.

You mentioned that the new look is anything regal. Can you tell us what this means andhow it might filter down to us in terms of menswear and what brands will be offering us in theseasons to come?
Yes, I think there’s a persuasive shift back to, by virtue of its cyclical nature, royalty and
luxe fabrics for menswear. It’s a very natural departure from the urban minimalism
that has dominated men’s silhouettes of recent, a hedonistic take on dandyism. Championing
the movement are the Antwerp-disciples, Dries van Noten, Haider Ackermann and Kris van
Assche.

Dries Van Noten new looks 2013

Menswear has over the last year been deep in nostalgia, taking things very old andmaking them new again. Even things such as a three piece suit were 5 years ago very rarelyseen in menswear but now they are almost becoming common place. Can you tell us whenyou think this trend might end, or how it might evolve into the next trends in menswear? Forexample, is the regal aspect you touched on an extension of this nostalgia?
Luckily for you and I, I don’t think its a trend. The great rise in the online mediascape, specifically
independent blogs and sites like MR PORTER who offer world class content and e-commerce
together, and the immediacy in which we’re accessing our information, has led to, by default, an
appreciation for quality. Men are engaging, as one does in conservative times, in valuable
research prior to spending. Brand heritage, the craftsmanship of products and specialty
categories are making a triumphant return to the marketplace to sit alongside luxury goods. I
believe, this is the “trend” you’re seeing.

In your eyes, who are the pivotal designers to keep an eye on the moment in menswearand can you tell us why they are perhaps more on the pulse than others in terms of menswear?
For whatever reason I’m consumed with the above mentioned Antwerp collective.
The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Belgium, has been responsible for the majority of great fashion
movements of late, Haider Ackermann’s debut menswear collection earlier in May being one
and Raf Simons 2012 appointment at Dior being another. The academy seems to teach a very
structural or architectural design process, but with a relaxed quality to it. Neil Barrett
continues to impress me and I admire that Rick Owens fortuitously perpetuates his signature
dialogue.

Haider Ackerman 2013

With the retail sector struggling in Australia as well as many outlets shutting shop, thingssuch as PR must therefore get slashed. Can you explain to us the importance of PR and how itis changing in terms of the way PR companies interact with brands and what products andservices they offer? With respect to your own agency, how do you intend to change the formatby which PR people do business?
PR is quite simply smarter marketing. Advertising, TVC, print campaigns and online banners,
don’t engage the consumer. The publishing industry’s band-aid for advertising was “Promotion”
or “Advertorial” but the consumer is much smarter than that today. PR agencies have become
the interactive platform for brand socialising. There’s a lot of redundant agencies out there
sending blanket emails with young employees who facilitate product placement, and that’s fine.
I look to develop unique content that grows a brands market presence specific to one
publication. Again, consumers are becoming more educated about their media
choices. Each of my designers is an authority within their field, specialising in his or her
category, with potential to expand their commercial business. For me, it’s about partnering
those brands with complimentary media to engage and nurture relationships.

In terms of your own wardrobe, can you give us an example of how you mish mash thecheaper stuff with the more expensive accoutrements?
I’m a huge advocate for the high street. Investment pieces will obviously off-set any
outfit, coats, suits, knits, shoes, leather goods, but everyday basics are best chosen from
brands to suit both your style and your budget. I live in basics so I’m fond of Australian
independent designer label Bassike or the U.S equivalent James Perse for everyday t-shirts. For
blazers and coats I pair back a statement designer, Dries van Noten, Lanvin or Margiela, and
then my shoes, leather goods and accessories are generally of a bespoke or specialty nature,
my favorite brogues were 2500 euro’s from Florence. Again, the education process plays a big
part in my decision making.

People often refer to the term ‘you get what you pay for?’ But with the retail world beingat sixes and sevens, how do you identify quality, especially on the web? Do you look for productreviews first or do you rely on blogger activity or red carpets?
And it’s true. Quality begins and ends with a brand's heritage, therefore, identifying trusted brands
or artisans within their field will always herald confident buying. Research the product. Identify the
key players within a particular product category and look at their history, as brands build their sole
reputation on quality and practice. I’m personally less inclined to read product reviews but
would advise others that narrowed and reliable media is a great indication of market trends.
Examples include China Daily, the U.K’s Financial Times, the International Herald Tribune and
locally the Australian Financial Review.What do you make of our politicians as we head towards election day 2013? Can you give usa run down on best and worst dressed?
Sadly, I’m poorly versed on Australian politics. Nevertheless, navy is a masculine colour of
distinction and financial stability. Wide bold-striped ties in contrast colours assert a degree of
confidence. Both party leaders would do well to take notes from the Federal Member for
Wentworth, Malcolm Turnbull.

Cameron's pick for political style: Malcolm Turnbull in the 'power' navy suit. This photo was taken in Sydney's Rose Bay.

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

The first of the four packages I ordered from you arrived today, and I really owe you a thank you. Besides the rather incredible items I ordered — actually, let me digress a bit here. I think that there are a lot of ups and downs in terms of being an online retailer. I'm sure I don't need to explain it to you, but obviously you and I would never have become acquainted if it weren't for the wonders of the internet. But the downside is that people don't get to lay eyes on your merchandise before they get it — not us international buyers, anyway. So even though I knew what to expect, more or less, I was pleasantly surprised. I find it hard to imagine that some of your merchandise would have stuck around as long as it did if people could have seen it with their own eyes. Very impressive stuff, as always.

But back to what I was saying. The extras you'd added to the package were a wonderful surprise indeed, and I wanted to thank you for them as soon as possible. I was particularly delighted with your hand made pocket squares. They're extremely charming, and I feel lucky to have them.

So again, thank you! I look forward to being wowed yet three more times before all this is done. I feel lucky indeed.

In my youth I had an art teacher that inspired me to start drawing. For weeks on end I was trying to get to a point in pencil that I thought was life-like. Towards the third week I remember asking Ms. Palmer if I had any talent and she said she couldn't answer that for me. It was taken, at my tender age of twelve, as a brutal rejection. My point being one that is somewhat didactic, don't lose faith! I am quite certain that Daniel Jean Baptiste did not start as such an amazing artist. His journey is like that of anybody with great skill, it is a commitment to a process. In the process of getting to the second stage, Daniel answered some questions about the work below.

What dimensions is the silk habotai and when choosing to work with gutta lines as you do, is there a rough size canvas you need in order to make shapes that work with the viscosity of the gutta?

The minimum dimensions are 30” x 40”, but I actually prefer 40” x 50”. The reasons is that a larger canvas allows for more complex gutta designs, and it is a lot easier to work in a larger format when using silk as a medium.

When creating the bow ties, what was the most difficult aspect of painting a form which wasn't natural but inspired by man made textiles?

I had no difficulty in incorporating the bow ties, I simply see them, as I do in all my creations, as part of a Dream. I create art based on my childhood experiences and that connection to beautiful things, and the bow ties were very exciting in colour and design.

How long did you roughly spend on each stage, from sketching to gutta to painting to finishing?

This sketch did not take too long because most of the composition had been established already from another painting, but normally this is the hardest part and usually takes up to a week just to create a rough composition. The wax lines take 4 – 6 hours and the actual painting of the piece 6 hours. When painting with liquid pigments it is very important to work fast, and you only have one chance to apply the colours without making any mistakes as once the colour goes on it can’t come out.

Creating gutta lines for the bows and butterfly

Can you tell us about the paints you used on this particular work - did you mix the colours yourself and roughly what paint colours did you choose to start with?

The paints are water based liquid pigment created for silk. I did all the testing of the colours and quality for the Toronto based company over the last decade. I always mix colours by starting to paint the more exciting parts of the design. I mix colours like a chef mixes seasonings, by feel.

The mixing pots of dyes for silks

Given you have now covered fish, plants, inspects and more, is there are particular part of nature that keeps you coming back to it?

My art keeps getting better, by that I mean that as I am getting more mature my observations of nature are becoming more detailed, and I find myself doing old subjects but with more passion and expression.

If someone wished to a collaborative work with you, are you available for commissions?

I am available for commissioned collaborative work.

Many great artists have always done a painting on the fruit bowl - it seems to be a rite of passage - have you done your fruit bowl yet?

I have done fruit bowl paintings, this was part of my early work when I was in my teens. If I did one today it would have to be something never seen before.

Stage 2, painting the bows

Can you tell us any new projects you have in the pipeline?

I am working on a project in the Bahamas, a private client has commissioned quite a few large pieces. My main focus right now is to re open my studio estate in in St. Lucia. Now that I live most of the year in Canada I have find myself really missing the art market that I had created on the island, so the plan is to reestablish this exotic location and to start building cottages on some of my choice locations that I own to create an art destination.

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Daniel Jean-Baptiste has been written about before on this blog. We interviewed him when I had begun my foray into textiles art. Daniel is one of the most recognised silk painting artists in the world right now. He has a huge number of subscribers to his YouTube videos where he documents the process of making silk art. It is a tremendous resource for those that wish to get into the art form although few come close to matching Daniel's ability to bring colour and form together. He is inspired by nature and in particular the natural beauty of his home island of St. Lucia. If you don't already know about him, perhaps read our blog article here.

I follow Daniel on Facebook and recently I discovered he was getting into butterflies and bing! I decided I wished to see if Daniel would work on a commission for us. He was very happy to do so. I was going to suggest it was a collaboration but really, Daniel did ALL the work here! Without further ado, here is part 1 of Daniel's work.

Monday, August 19, 2013

We are currently testing our discount codes which instead of giving you a percentage off your shopping cart will instead give you a single value discount. In order to try and entice you to try one we are leaving a sample below with the code inside the image. Does this image look familiar? It is the other side of the old paper printed $100.00 Australian note. The image features John Tebbutt , who was a famed Australian astronomer credited with discovering the Great Comet of 1861. You probably are more familiar with the other side of the note, Sir Douglas Mawson, an Australian Antarctic pioneer explorer.

We need your help. We think we are wonderful but sometimes our customer's don't have the same experience and we need to know. Please, if you have a minute to spare, would you kindly answer 10 short questions on our company.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Just a quick thank you for putting on a truly inspired sale.
I have to confess that I never really imagined myself to be much of a bow tie aficionado.
However, Le Noeud Papillon has changed all that..forever. My collection has now almost tripled thanks to my frenzied buying spree at the LNP Dutch auction.
I absolutely love the bespoke quality of LNP bow ties and equally impressed with the behind the scenes customer service! Got to love those Newsletters as well.
I look forward to seeing the new silks and designs on your website soon.
Have a good rest.

Thank you,
Best regards,

Christopher KTokyo, Japan

Dear Le Noeud Papillon!

Some months ago I wrote to you that I fell in love in your little beauties. (I must add that it was love from the first sight!). That time I was thinking: "I'd like to have one or two of them" That was first bow ties in my life. "Let me try". And I tried. And I loved myself as a bow tie man. Now I have more then dozen of them and I'm looking forward for your new silks. Now it is not just love it is almost an addiction... Addiction for the beauty. Exclusive beauty!

Thank you LNP!

Dimitri L,Ukraine

Dear LNP,

Thanks for hosting such an exciting event. The Dutch Auction Sale was a first for me. You definitely grabbed my attention at 40% off. After that I was hooked ! Thanks to you, I got a lot of Christmas shopping this week ! I am looking forward to receiving my new bows and lamenting the ones that got away. Can't wait to see what you have in store for us next !!!

I trust this note finds you well (and perhaps a little rested following your recent busy schedule?)

Can I resist everything except temptation? Absolutely not! I have placed four orders with you over the past few weeks making full use of your recent (and really special) Dutch Auction. During this time I have received three of the most beautifully crafted bow ties in the most wondrous silks that one can imagine. I really cannot wait to receive the further three bow ties I have ordered; which will only be bettered (I believe) by the receipt of an utterly divine silk/cashmere scarf in red and navy along with a selection of your excellent handkerchiefs from order number four. I truly cannot wait.

As a lover of the finer things in life, I would like to thank you for everything thus far and I look forward to the your new season's offerings. I am in no doubt that I will be contacting you very soon with an order of five or more.

I just came home from work and found your delivery on my doorstep! I really can't get over how amazing your products and customer service are!

I've been a bowtie devotee for a while now. I'm 24 and there hasn't been a day in the last 3 years I've not worn a bow.

I discovered you by accident a little under 6 months ago. I'm now the proud owner of 9 of your bowties.

I've not bought a bow from anyone else since. And to be honest. I'm not sure if I ever will again.

I'm yet to find any other designer OR manufacturer with near the level of quality or pride in their product. Wearing one of your bows makes your whole day better. I work in customer service and am constantly complimented on how wonderful your ties are.

They make children happy, adults respect your sense of style and Doctor Who fans lose their minds!

In the end, it's all about looking good, and knowing it. And I'd just like to thank you at LNP for facilitating my style, awesomeness and eccentricity every day.

Your biggest fan,

Tom Carle

New South Wales, Australia

Subject: Best Bow Ties on the Planet

Wanted to say thank you for posting pictures (on your blog) I sent you from my vacation in Monaco. I was a great surprise and happy to "show off" your awesome velvet Dicky bow tie. I own several of your ties and wear them often. I'm attending THE largest black tie events in Chicago. Opening night Gala and Opera Ball at the Lyric Opera House. At this event I will wear your "Clubs" limited edition silk bow tie. Will send pics……it should be an ocean of bow ties this event.

Thanks so much for making the best bow ties on the planet!

D Meisenburg

USADear LNP,

It has been remiss of me not to be in contact sooner. I have had two excellent evenings of late, made all the better by being accompanied by two of your signature bows and pocket squares. I enjoyed a terrific evening celebrating Christmas in July this year, and most recently my father in law’s 70th birthday, and on both occasions stole the show with your fine silks.

I sent you a photo some years back of me in one of your original bows in action at a wedding – if you recall, a bright beauty sporting horizontal stripes of red, gold and blue and pointed ends. It did the trick at the 70th this past weekend, the mature crowd enjoyed every bit of it.

Many thanks, it is always fun to have something positive and distinct to talk about at a special event.

Every city has its own fashion culture, and truth be told I wouldn't want it any other way. Here in Vancouver more formal men's items like jackets and ties are far from a common fixture; in a city that's notorious for its outdoorsy lifestyle, people seem content to leave the suits to the guys in the financial districts downtown.

This is something I used to bemoan, even if only a little. I suppose I'm more of an eccentric sort, and for several years I've always found myself overdressing for the occasion, almost without exception. My favourite item is the bow tie, a badge of eccentricity if there ever was one.

But even as I silently wished that more people around me took their wardrobes a bit more seriously, something occurred to me: in a place like this, one is afforded a lot more leeway to experiment and really push the envelope. And, for the most part, no one cares if your outfit is less than perfect. As much as I hate to admit it, I have more than a few items in my closet that don't fit as well as I'd like them to.

Never mind that, though. Let's stick to the experimentation. Recently I found myself really wanting to take the plunge on a crazy item, so I commissioned a Madras patchwork blazer. Perhaps it wouldn't be out of place at a yacht club in Nantucket, but here in Vancouver? Unheard of. I received the sample swatch in the mail, a glorious mash up of red, navy blue, white, teal, yellow, green, and several shades in between. I signed off immediately, and the maddening wait to have it made began.

I'll cut to the chase: the other day I found myself wearing it while out about in town. Even as someone who wears a bow tie on a regular basis, I felt the slightest sting of self-consciousness. "Was it too much?" I wondered. I felt as though I'd either pulled off a minor fashion coup or made a terrible mistake. I was leaning towards the former, of course, but whenever the envelope gets pushed, there's bound to be at least a shadow of doubt.

As the day went on, I found that doubt washing away. I realized that I didn't care if other people liked it or not. It was enough that it made me happy. To be sure, there were a few odd choices on the part of the tailor in its construction, but I didn't care about that either.

Such an item shouldn't be brought into the rotation too often, lest it become tired, but rest assured I'll wear it again as soon as I feel I'm able. And I'll wear it proudly, even as I stand next to a crowd of people decked out in their very best active wear. After all, what else is there?

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

This just came in from one of our most esteemed customers who has been enjoying our wares for some time now. Any of you who follow the blog will most likely be able to recognise him from his writing style.

Hello LNP,I just read your most recent blog entry and I have to say that even though I haven't laid eyes on many of the items you describe, I can imagine your bewilderment. And rest assured that if I were not so tall and thick necked (alas!), I probably would have ordered a whole host of your neckties. I can tell you that I feel like a child waiting for Christmas all the same when I think about what's on its way to me now... The silk and cashmere scarves (I broke down and bought the orange one as well), the M. de Phocas cufflinks (as I said, I suspect these are a real treasure), no less than ten pairs of Bresciani socks... As well as some other no doubt wonderful odds and ends. Actually, I feel like it's a disservice to even refer to them as odds and ends (I'm especially thinking about your new pocket squares when I think about this — I'm very much looking forward to getting my hands on those). Ah well.

Well, well, if Puss In Boots hasn't had his fill of milk! We have enjoyed selling to you customers over the past few days. Yes, we've lost money the last few days, but we know our wares are going to good new homes.

For many of you, small surprises (depending on the time of day when we received the order) are packed inside your parcels as a token gift of appreciation for your loyalty and to some of you newer folks, to welcome you into the fold.

The SALE is coming to a close tomorrow and where I sit is not far from where I pick the bow ties. The quantity of silk that has departed has actually made me rather sad rather than happy. I guess it is like seeing your kids grow up and leave home. An experience I've not had just yet. Regardless, what I find the most baffling about the sale is the deals that go unnoticed.

Personally one of my favourite bow ties I have worn this year is Napoleon, a red satin silk with a weft of red satin polka dots. The last I checked there were two remaining. The same can be said for Wolfgang and Volker, both remarkable bow ties. The BIG surprise is that the tie, Ivan, a green ground satin silk with orange tennis balls motif, is still on the website. If I told you how much it cost me to make that tie (the tie is made by hand in our Sydney studio) your eyes might water. It is an 8cm tie with hand slip stitch in orange thread, hand bar tacs front and rear blade and it has no centre anchored tie bar; it is instead stitched on four points from the side by hand so there is no handle change as you run your hand down the centre of the tie blade. These and many other surprises still are yet to be had and to be claimed. In the meantime, I sit by my computer..... baffled! Of course, I have the added advantage that I made them, so I have a competitive advantage over you lot. But then, I can't buy my own stock...

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

We update the stock levels as often as possible during the SALE time but there are hours in the day where we don't have a chance to do so. Another issue is the way we store our bows. They have their own racks and sit one on top of the other. Sometimes you can miss the count with some models hidden under other layers. We do apologise for any errors that occur and when we find that extra bow in a silk we immediately put it back on the website.

Sunday, August 11, 2013

The Australian biscuit company Arnott's still runs with the slogan 'There's no substitute for quality' and in the face of international competition throughout the 1980's the company remained true to their word and the business survived. To this day I still love Arnott's biscuits and I will seek them out on the supermarket shelf though I haven't done any research into the company of recent and I wouldn't know whether they still make in Sydney or not. Their Tim Tam biscuits can be used in what is known as the Tim Tam Rush, where you bite the end off both ends of the chocolate biscuit and suck hot tea until it reaches your mouth. By this time the chocolate has melted giving you a rush of melted chocolate. Mmmm memories. I can still remember the first time my then flat mate Bonnie showed me the technique. My point, which I don't mean to stray from, is that holding some core values in what you do will keep you upright even when your competitors are bent.

Such is the case I feel with two English brands that I recently bought from which make me have hope for the future, not only in English made products, but in my own company which faces adversity every day as more and more brands try to join the bow tie movement and men's accoutrements etc etc. I can't really blame them of course, I only started my company because I could not buy Charvet bow ties on the internet, as when I first began making here in Sydney it was because mostly I was in shock and awe by what David Jones passed off as a tie your own bow tie.

Recently I took up an offer put to readers on a Permanent Style where author Simon Crompton offered to sell you a collaboration jumper with John Smedley called the Dartmoor which was a long sleeved polo in navy merino wool. The jumper, which is pictured below, is absolutely superb. I put it on the first day and three days later I still couldn't take it off. It was a big success for John Smedley and a big thank you for Crompton for organising this. I could not be happier.

Recently whilst shopping at Henry Bucks I noticed that they had a range of Sunspel in, which was particularly well crafted. The cottons seemed to be the real deal. So many polos are made with very average materials and there really is a difference between the various menswear labels offering them. Whilst you may find that Gucci or Christian Dior will use an exceptional quality cotton from time to time, you quite often don't want all the hoo ha they throw in with the designs nor the price tags. Sunspel is a particularly low-key, typically English inverted snobbery brand which I think deserves your attention. I now own one of their Riviera collared t-shirts and a round neck striped t-shirt. Both are exceptional, stitched well, no big labels, made from great cloth. This is a killer combination. Whilst I used to love the long lasting quality of Paul & Shark t-shirts, it's not often that you can find one that hasn't been marred by embroidery or over done on the colours or pattern. The difference with Sunspel is that they know how to hold back - but not on quality.

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Okay, so it is not every day that you get to help a friend whilst he is recording an album. Dennis Dowlut was in the final stages of making his album Changin' for his band Electric Empire when he called me and asked me to come down to the studio to look over some of their latest music. I was very very chuffed. Apart from being the world's worst mixer (I cannot change from one song to another much like Derek Zoolander cannot make a left turn on a cat walk), I am/was one of the better wedding djays in Sydney in a former life - pre papillons.

Dennis and I spent a whole afternoon together and although you will never see my name in the credits, I will tell you that I was part of the remake of one particular song which I won't mention the name of. One of the songs I also gave comments on turns out to be my absolute favourite since the release of their last album. The song is called Changin' and without further ado you can see Australian actor Gynton Grantley (Underbelly 1 - Karl Williams) who is featured.

The SALE now moves today to 50% and I honestly am perplexed by you customers. There are items on there which are so much more valuable than the others and yet you pass them by as you head for one bow or another. Honore (3 REMAIN) has been extremely popular as well as the Antoni and Lawrence (SOLD OUT) but I can't help but feel that only one of my customer's truly understands amongst the collection what is actually the best value. He came onto the store last night and chose one thing alone and it only reinforced my opinion that he is one of the smartest and savvy internet shoppers out there.

Friday, August 9, 2013

It is sometimes rather funny how you come up with a good idea but then later in the day you find an additional layer or meaning to the idea which is how I came up with this post. The other evening as I was returning home from my work I was rather startled when I heard Waltzing Matilda playing on my car stereo. It was pretty stupid since I put it there on the playlist, but none the less it felt like I had made a discovery. I listened to Slim Dusty sing this ballad by Banjo Paterson and I got a little misty eyed. It is after all considered to be more of a national anthem than our own national anthem 'Advance Australia Fair'. Written by Paterson in 1895, it has been covered by hundreds of music artists, it has been painted, sculpted, and printed and, most importantly, it has been sung by drunken Australians all over the world. In it's short verse it tells a more epic Australian tale than the entire 3 hours of Baz Luhrmann's ridiculous 'Australia' which assumes far too much for what it is.

It was in the later afternoon today that I relayed this conversation to my friend Dennis Dowlut of Electric Empire as we had coffee and discussed music. I said to him "Dennis, it must be so difficult to take people on a journey within the small time frame you have to sing your song. Even a song like Waltzing Matilda, it takes you on such a gritty journey into the psyche of Australians in such a small time frame".

So what is Waltzing Matilda all about? In a nutshell, as far as I can tell, it is about a lonely workman who walks through the bush with his rucksack he calls 'Matilda', and in his loneliness he talks to the bag as if it were a person, which is bouncing around on his back or 'waltzing'. The workman, referred to as a swagman, sits by a billy (a pot in which you make tea) which sits on a fire. He steals a sheep (a jumbuck) and is going to eat it when he is set upon by the owner of the sheep and some police officers. When he realises that he is going to be arrested, he decides it's better to jump in the billabong ( a deep watering hole caused by overflowing rivers) and commit suicide, than to suffer the long arm of the law. And in his death he creates a certain mysticism as it is said that his ghost haunts the billabong.

There is a charm about this small story which I believe has a similar thread to that of the Eureka Stockade when Australians (before Australia was a sovereign state) fought a battle against English colonial forces in what some regard as Australian modern history's most famed act of civil disobedience. More than anything you might find on a Saturday night in Kings Cross anyway....

I should not waste your time any longer. Watch the video below and read the lyrics. When you are done, consider yourself a little more understanding of Australians.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

David Lee Meisenburg first bought a bow tie from Le Noeud Papillon when he saw our clubs design silk which was very similar to his own business logo for his new Vodka brand. Since then I have stayed in contact and today David sent in these pictures of his 'Dicky' model bow tie in the South of France. Since our Dicky was named after one of my great film and novel characters Dicky Greenleaf, I am only too happy that it is currently swanning around the South of France.

From David:

"Thought you would enjoy seeing your bow tie at the Bryan Ferry concert
(Bryan Ferry Orchestra) in Monaco on Aug 4th. It was an dinner/concert
looking out over the Mediterranean. "