Your “2 lights operated by 1 switch” diagram is very good. But it includes wiring to additional receptacles. This has confused me. Can you submit a diagram without the wiring to additional receptacles?

Nfcmgt

Just don’t use the 14/3 wire. Use a 14/2 in it’s place where the black would be used instead of white.

Dan Castle

This diagram is helpful but there is no explanation for the orange wire and why would the orange wire not go to the additional recepticles?

Nfcmgt

The (orange) red wire is part of the 14/3 wire they used in diagram. It is only needed one time, as all other lights (only limited by wattage of switch) are run by 14/2 wire. If the wire does not need to feed additional receptacles then you would not need the 14/3 and could just use a 14/2 in it’s place.

ThinkItThrough

The orange is used when the power is coming from a ‘receptacle’ and not necessarily a single line feed. The black line to goes to other recepticles is always hot (notice it doesn’t go through the switch). This means you can still have continueous power to recepticles and have a switched lighting cicuit.

Fishguts1977

I’m wondering how to run a new light to an end of the run switch that already controls a light. The power source goes to the first light then from there on to the switch which has both white and black wires attached to the switch. I’m still pretty green when it comes to home wiring. The second light is within 10 feet from the switch, whereas the first light is about 30 feet from it. Thanks for any help…

Fishguts1977

Would I run the 12-2 wire from the new light to the switch, where I would disconnect the white wire from the switch and connect it with the neutral wire from the new light, then connect the hot from the new light to the switch and then connect the ground from the source wire with the new wire along with grounding it to the switch box itself. i hope I am describing it ok….