C1 is the input cap. If you are using tube rectification, it MUST be 47 uf or smaller. Also, you need a higher voltage rating. Don't skimp on the PSU caps, when you're dealing with high voltage just get the right parts.

Yesterday, I took some time to fashion holes for the tubes, using a Dremel. That's far from ideal since the proper tool would have been a hole saw. Instead, I used the circular disc (no good), the stone abrasive (only good for very small areas to sand), and finally settled on the sand drum, one of which is completely eroded now.

The holes aren't very regular so there's more work to do.

I also started to look for the proper resistors to solder on the PCB board. I have a set of 1/4W resistors, but I am not sure I have the others that George prescribed liked the 5W and so on.

In between looking for parts and ordering new ones, I'll continue doing the chassis work. It's the first time I do this, including the metal work. I am more interested in the electronics rather than chassis work, but I still did my own speaker stands, so I am enjoying it more and more.

All terminals are soldered in. I really like that design since there will only be screws to turn rather than more soldering when assembling the system.

The chassis finish is envisioned to be a mix of glossy black and chrome for the upper plate, together with a strip of wood, and the faceplate as well as sides in wood too.

I intend to re-purpose a VCR head assembly as volume knob. This will require a strong bond to the potentiometer shaft.

Not sure how I could straighten the top plate out, and fairly certain that chrome around here will show the kinks.

That's going to be difficult. You can try to put a flat piece of hard wood or MDF underneth and use a small hammer to flatten the worst bits. But it won't be perfect. If you're looking for a flawless surface, you may want to start over.