COYOTE CAFE

KIRKUS REVIEW

A Chez Panisse alumnus, now proprietor/chef of his own Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, Miller has steeped himself in the southwestern tradition but shares his alma mater's preference for creative rather than ""museum"" application. He can also be as exacting about ingredients as Alice Waters is at Chez Panisse (here, it's fresh epazote, wild boar bacon, New Mexican Platinum Lady corn)--but he also appends a list of mail-order sources, including Coyote's own store, scheduled to open in June. Miller's book, like his cafe, sizzles with interesting local dishes from Mexico (from Oaxaca, an unusual rellenos dish and a mole verde with tomatillos and poblanos) and with inspired variations on southwestern classics, from Coyote's trademark cowboy steak to oyster empanadas influenced by a North African dish. There's also a pork taco with wild mushrooms and tamarind chipotle sauce that took off from a Chinese recipe for mu-shu pork and pancakes. It's all exciting fare for devotees or tourists.

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