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I am aware that I can toggle the mode via Fn+Return, but this really bothers me. I'm used to the ESC key (years of muscle memory training!) and it adds friction, since you now have to press two keys instead of one, and these two keys are in the middle of the keyboard instead of its edge.

Is there any way -- editing a plist or casting a spell -- to get the old behaviour back?

I wrote the support team two months ago and they said that they haven't made a final decision this one yet, so there's hope. :-)