A local’s guide to the secret side of Tokyo

The filmmaker and producer has his finger firmly on the city’s cultural pulse. Here’s how to get in on the scene

Shimokitazawa

Most tourists just go straight to Shibuya, Shinjuku and Harajuku, missing scruffier neighbourhoods such as Shimokita. It’s more bohemian: artists and musicians come to rummage in thrift shops and second-hand record stores. The streets are too narrow for cars, so it’s a great place to wander. Check out New York Joe Exchange for cheap vintage clothes.

Yoyogi Park

This is one of Tokyo’s biggest parks, so it’s no secret. But what’s interesting about it is why people go there. In Tokyo, apartment rules often don’t allow for musicians to practise at home, so they come to Yoyogi. Now it’s the catch-all place for people indulging in their noisy (or niche) hobbies — from rehearsing musicians, to clusters of cosplayers or rockabilly posers. Don’t miss the Meiji Shrine, right in the middle. It’s surreal — like a hologram from an older time.

Fuglen

1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya

I go to this coffee bar as much for the people-watching and the vintage Norwegian furniture as for the coffee. It’s where the local cool kids hang out, shades on, taking pictures of their single origin, AeroPressed coffees. It’s also a cosy place to grab a cocktail in the evening. The Fuglens Gimlet is the best — it’s made with kaffir lime leaves.

Tokyo Tower

4 Chome-2-8 Shibakoen, Minato

Ever since the futuristic Tokyo Skytree opened in 2010, tourists have forgotten about this old tower — a red-and-white version of the Eiffel. But I prefer it. It’s not as tall, but it’s closer to the centre of town, much quieter and half the price (£6). It’s also still taller than 99 per cent of Toyko, so you get amazing views, plus it’s surrounded by gardens and temples.

Ivy Place

16-15 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya

The hot food trend in Tokyo right now is pancakes — the big, fluffy kind that come in stacks. And the buttermilk ones they do here, topped with whipped cream and honey, are some of the best I’ve found. Book a seat on the outdoor terrace — it’s an oasis of peace, close to the centre, that tourists haven’t found yet.

Espace Louis Vuitton

5-7-5 Jingumae, Shibuya

In Tokyo, you have to pay to enter most galleries and museums, but this gallery on the seventh floor of the Louis Vuitton flagship shop is free. And it’s so well hidden, even I didn’t know about it until recently. It generally showcases work by modern Japanese artists, but the views of the city alone are worth the lift ride up.

Shimokita Chaen Oyama

2-30-2 Kitazawa, Shimokitazawa

The brothers who work at this ‘green tea room’ are two of just four people in Japan ranked as ‘10 dan’ tea sommeliers — that’s like being a black belt in tea tasting. The hojicha (green tea) shaved ice they sell in summer is amazing — smoky, yet refreshing. This place is a true hidden gem, really only known to Japanese tea aficionados.