Achieve an ageless mane with tips for choosing dye, dealing with grays and more

Not matter how cute your 'do is, if your hair color doesn't complement your skin tone and facial features, it could age you. New York City hair stylist Rita Hazan, owner of Rita Hazan Salon, offers four strategies for getting it right.

1. Choose the right base color. "As we mature, our skin loses pigment, so your hair color has to compensate to complement your skin tone. If your hair is too dark you'll look pale, and if it's too light it'll wash you out completely." Rule of thumb: If you're a brunette, lighten your base color one shade; if you're a blonde, go one shade darker.

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2. Add warm highlights. "Golden highlights bring color to your complexion and make it look youthful. If you have auburn hair, go with golden copper highlights. Brunettes should be more of a caramel, and blondes look best with a honey, golden tone."

3. Don't go to extremes. With highlights, less is more—a few framing the face and at the crown look natural (start about an inch back so you can see the contrast between your face and hair). A full head of highlights, however, "can make you look older—the tone of vibrant, dramatic colors may clash with your skin."

4. Darken gray hair. Gray hair lacks pigment, so if you have no pigment in your hair and less in your skin from aging, it can wash you out. To restore color, use a darker shade. If you'd rather go entirely gray, try using Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights shampoo ($8.99; at professional beauty supply stores). It contains a violet hue that reduces the yellow tint often found in salt-and-pepper hair.