“If they’re not holes, then what are they?”

It's only that one leg that really stands out - the others, although there are slight color variations are actually pretty consistent.

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And this is why I wanted you to look at it as a whole chair and not just boards side by side. You are now looking at the wood the direction it runs and that changes the color. You also can step back and get a over all opinion.

That's what I'm thinking, I'll explain some supper bleaching to get the leg lighter. Strip the dark leg again, in fact wash all the oil off that chair, and as I said get all of them to one stage done at a time. You can take one apart and strip it, pop it back together like you did this one to save space.

But I would get them all stripped.
Clean your glue joints with a file and drill the 3/8 holes
Glue up all the chairs
Sand all the chairs
Wipe them down with lacquer thinner to determine areas that need bleaching.
Do your bleaching
Sand the bleached areas again because they will get a little ruff.
Now you can start your finishing

And this is why I wanted you to look at it as a whole chair and not just boards side by side. You are now looking at the wood the direction it runs and that changes the color. You also can step back and get a over all opinion.

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Ok, that's what I'll do then. It'll be a few days before I can start with any of the others so I'll just let this one sit for the moment. If we get some nice weather in the next few days maybe I can get outside to get that part done sooner.

Thanks again, Dan. I'll post back in here when I've got the rest up to this point.

I have a 50s upholstered chair that came in the shop that went through a fire. I sanded it clean, it had hand caps on the arms made of one kind of wood. the front pencil legs where teak, and some other wood at the foot, the back legs are maple with the same wood as the front foot.

This chair was made with the different woods and finished clear from the factory for that look. How do I know this? Because it doesn't make any other sense to use all those different color woods if they wanted a even look to the chair, it was the style, way out and groovy.

Looks pretty good for surviving a fire. I can see how the variations and contrast in wood used would add to that chair’s style - on that one, it makes sense because it’s balanced. Will you be doing the reupholstery on it too?

Since I was out at the hardware store today anyway, I picked up a couple packs of 3/8” fluted dowel pins to replace the originals - I took one along for size comparison.

They fit a little too loosely in a few of the holes - enough so that if I turn that piece upside down, they’ll fall out. I don’t think that will give a good support for the glue and will probably be a joint issue in the future since it’s not snug. I’ve got a 100 pack of 7/16” sitting in my cart on Amazon since I’m not driving all over western PR looking for these. Would that be the next logical size up? Or should I consider tracking down 13/32”?

Just a quick update on this thread. The A/B bleach kit I bought on amazon just got delivered yesterday. It’s been sitting at my mom’s house for a month or so because they wouldn’t ship here, but she sent it down to me the other day.

Last night, I popped open both bottles and did just a quick quarter-sized test with a q-tip on an inside, hidden surface of that dark leg. After a couple hours, there was a noticeable difference, and this morning, it was even lighter. That was enough convincing, so I started the full outside face and the edges.

Sorry it’s wet, I forgot to take a pic with them side by side while it was still dry, but there are plenty of pics throughout the thread to see how they compare dry.

An hour later and I had this:

And now here, only 3 1/2 hours later it’s at this level:

I’m just gonna let the stuff take its course and if it goes a shade or two too light, that’s fine, I can much more easily tone it back down with a light golden-oak or something along those lines. I’m only bleaching the one leg so far, I have no intention of doing the rest of the chair. I like the color and mild variance of the rest of the wood, only just wanted to pull this one leg in closer to the rest.

Things are looking really good so far, hopefully that continues. Probably gonna start working on the rest of those chairs within the week because I have a need for them to be in action soon.

More pics to follow.

Not sure yet how I intend to tackle those chewed up areas around the feet; they all have it like that. I know I’m going to put the single nail sliders on the bottoms to prevent further damage, but not sure if I’m going to attempt filler and blend, or just leave them be. We’ll see.

Ok, coming up on the final results (prior to fine sanding and teak oil).

Beginning (Dry):

Just as I was starting bleach process (wet):

Bleaching done, just need fine sanding and finishing (dry):

I’ll bet that’s gonna be about as perfect a match as I’m gonna get. My sense is that’s just about the color the rest of the chair was before I put that light coat of teak oil on it. Once this thing fully dries out overnight, I’m gonna lightly resand it and give it a wipe to see how it looks. I’ve got a feeling it’s done now. That stuff really worked way better than I anticipated.

I’m only bleaching the one leg so far, I have no intention of doing the rest of the chair. I like the color and mild variance of the rest of the wood, only just wanted to pull this one leg in closer to the rest.

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Yep less is more, the end result should look like original well preserved mid century chairs with aged colors.

Not sure yet how I intend to tackle those chewed up areas around the feet; they all have it like that. I know I’m going to put the single nail sliders on the bottoms to prevent further damage, but not sure if I’m going to attempt filler and blend, or just leave them be. We’ll see.

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Less is more, the end result should look like original well preserved mid century chairs that would have flaws.

Mohawk toning lacquers are a very good product. I've refinished many 30's console and table radios with them. Easy to use and quick drying. Medium brown worked well for me. You get a darker finish with each coat applied.

Mohawk toning lacquers are a very good product. I've refinished many 30's console and table radios with them. Easy to use and quick drying. Medium brown worked well for me. You get a darker finish with each coat applied.

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I appreciate your suggestion. Thank you. Gonna have to see how the wood looks under the other three painted chairs before I decide going beyond just the teak oil. Hopefully they all look more or less like this one! LOL

Yep less is more, the end result should look like original well preserved mid century chairs with aged colors.

Less is more, the end result should look like original well preserved mid century chairs that would have flaws.

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Your advice has always been correct and appreciated, so I will continue to heed it. We’ll leave those kinda banged up feet as they are. LOL

Fine sanded to 600, a wipe of teak oil to brighten the wood, and a dry mock up. Still looks dark compared to the cross-rail, but when compared to the same side back/leg piece and other front leg, virtually identical in color.

Gonna leave well enough alone right now and call it done as far as wood refinishing goes. Just need to glue it all up (will be using the same hide glue I used in that veneering project over the summer - I really like that stuff a lot), and reupholster the seat. I see most of these chairs on the internet with a black vinyl/leather seat, but they’re also very formal dark brown. I haven’t decided. With the lighter color wood now. a lighter color seat might be the way to go. I’ve been looking at Pearsall/Craft Associates chairs on the net to see what other upholstery they offered with their lighter colored woods.

Regardless, I’m totally ready to tackle these other three now that I see how well this one’s turning out.