Cookbook critic: Blogger gets it right with 'Homemade With Love'

I was excited to get Jennifer Perillo's "Homemade With Love: Simple Scratch Cooking from In Jennie's Kitchen." Based on her popular food blog, this cookbook is the antidote to the Food Network's "Semi-Homemade Cooking."

Perillo has assembled a collection of recipes for every meal of the day — all from scratch. It's thorough without being overwhelming. When I first looked at the table of contents I wondered if she would pull it off, but each chapter is right sized. Do read the chapter on the Basics — many will show up later as ingredients. Basics include an all-purpose baking mix, a homemade creamy ricotta (a big hit at our house although it could use a little more salt) and a 20-minute marinara.

The recipes are not intimidating. I have a few quibbles; one recipe was specific about the brand of Pecorino Romano cheese to use but vague about the amount of bread crumbs. I wish she had given a more exact amount of bread crumbs and let me use the Romano cheese I had on hand. However, you soon realize that this is home cooking and making do is just fine. Just taste as you go and don't be afraid to adjust.

Meatballs are big at our house; we have Swedish and Italian ancestors so there you are. Perillo has two meatball recipes, one vegetarian made with lentils and homemade ricotta and the other a Sicilian variation with pine nuts and currants. Both were savory and delicious, while different in flavor and texture. There was also a New York vibe to them. Perillo is from Brooklyn and the book especially succeeds when she melds East Coast Italian home cooking with fresh ingredients and a little whimsy.

This is a wonderful cookbook and will generate some family favorites.

RECIPES

Creamy homemade ricotta

Makes about 2 cups

4 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

¾ cup buttermilk

½ teaspoon salt

Combine the milk, cream, buttermilk and salt in a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Bring to a gentle, not rolling boil. As the curds begin to separate from the whey, you'll see little white flecks pop to the surface and the milk will turn into a cloudy, watery-looking liquid. Let it cook for 1 to 2 more minutes until larger curds begin to form, then remove the pot from the heat. Place it on a back burner and let it sit for 30 minutes to help the curds develop further.

Meanwhile, line a sieve or fine mesh strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth and place it over a deep bowl or pot. Spoon the curds into the cheesecloth-lined strainer. Resist the temptation to pour it into the strainer all at once. Gently ladling the curds keeps them fluffy. Once all the curds have been ladled into the strainer, pull the sides of the cheesecloth up and over the ricotta to cover it so it doesn't dry out or form a skin on top. Let it sit in the cheesecloth to drain the excess liquid for 15 to 30 minutes. The length of time you drain it depends on how creamy you'd like your ricotta — the longer, the drier. If using it in a baked recipe, you'll want a drier texture. If serving it "straight up" on a cheese board for spreading it on toast, you'll want it to be on the creamier side. The ricotta may be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Place the milk in small bowl and add the bread. Submerge it completely and let it soak for 10 minutes. Squeeze the bread until it's moist but no longer soggy. Discard the remaining milk. Combine the bread with the beef, pork, cheese, parsley, garlic, egg yolks, currants, pine nuts, and salt and pepper in a deep bowl. Use your hands to mix well until everything is combined — you can use a spoon or spatula for this step, but using your hands really helps work the flavors into the ground meat.

Shape the mixture into 18 equal-sized balls. Add the egg whites to a shallow bowl and beat them lightly. Dab your fingertips into the egg whites and gently rub the meatballs to coat them. Place the meatballs on the prepared pan 2 inches apart. Bake for 25 minutes, turning the meatballs halfway through, until they're nicely browned and cooked through. Serve hot or add to a pot of marinara sauce and let them simmer until ready to serve.

Cookbook Critic runs Wednesdays in the Plus section. This week's Cookbook Critic is Eric Engdahl of San Rafael, who ran away and joined the circus as a Ringmaster when he turned 30 and says the best and most enjoyable meals can be found in the cook tent of an old fashioned one-ring circus.

If you're interested in being a Cookbook Critic for the IJ, please email vlarson@marinij.com and include a little about yourself, your town, your cooking expertise, any dietary restrictions and types of foods you like to cook/bake. Please put "Cookbook Critic" in the subject line.