Yes you can use Bellawood premium underlayment. No you don’t have to use Bellawood premium underlayment but we do require a moisture retarder such as 15lb felt paper or Silicone Vapor paper. Thank you for your inquiry.

Thank you for writing in! I would be glad to help you with your questions.You can contact me directly:MarkTechnical & Installation Specialist Office (800)-366-4204 ext. 4857My work hours are 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM Eastern Standard Time

Engineered wood and floating floors (floors not attached to the subfloor) are most recommended for radiant heat. However, if you should choose to use solid wood for this application select species with the highest stability ratings (white pines stability is very low) . Be aware that even species with better dimensional stability characteristics cannot predictably be guaranteed to perform well over radiant heat. Therefore, solid wood applications over radiant in-floor heat is not recommended nor warrantied. Because of the wide array of in-floor heating systems on the market each with its own features and limitations please consult with your radiant flooring provider for installation methods and application advice.

Yes but only after regular fasteners have installed flooring. Cut nails are used as a decorative touch and are placed straight over floor joists.

WIDE PLANK 5” and WIDER UNFINISHED PINE INSTALLATION [ Two install options]1. (Installation using screws and plugs) Roll out your black felt or rosin paper perpendicular to the floor joist and tack it down, then snap chalk lines on the black felt or rosin paper to get a straight starting line and to also mark the floor joist in the floor. The chalk line for the first row must be accurate to make sure the first row is straight.

Install the first row with long straight boards and leave an expansion gap equal to the thickness of the board at the wall. Cut the board ends so butt joints occur over floor joists. These will be nailed into the floor joist later with cut nails. Stagger butt joints from row to row so they don’t line up across the floor. Make board cuts using a sliding miter saw, with this you will get straighter cuts and most rental companies should have these.

Pre-drill and face nail the first row with 8d steel finish nails to avoid splitting or use a 15 gauge finish nailer to make the job go quicker. Nail into every joist to keep this row from moving when you tap in the next rows.

After the first row, nail the next rows using a hardwood flooring nailer or stapler with nail spacing 8” apart and 1 to 3” from the board ends. With bowed boards you may have to screw down a wedge to hold the board in place until it is nailed with the hardwood nailer. If the gap still won’t tighten up, cut the board into shorter lengths.If the last row installed is less than 1” use yellow carpenters wood glue along with finish nails to hold it in place.

Mark each joist location with a string line and make a guide to space the screw holes about 1-3/4” from the board edge. Two screws are sufficient to hold a 6” wide board flat, but a wider board will require three screws. Then drill ½” holes wherever you put a mark with guide. In the center of each hole drill a 1/8” pilot hole and drive a wood screw. Use screws long enough that will catch 1” into the subfloor. With a plug cutter make matching hardwood plugs and install them either with the grain or across the grain with a yellow carpenter’s wood glue and cut off any excess of wood with a hand saw. (This will be sanded smooth during thesanding process). Top nailing wider pine is recommended to help prevent board cupping and splitting later on.

2. (installation with cut nails) Roll out your black felt or rosin paper perpendicular to the floor joist and tack it down, then snap chalk lines on the black felt or rosin paper to get a straight starting line and to also mark the floor joist in the floor. The chalk line for the first row must be accurate to make sure the first row is straight.Install the first row with long straight boards and leave an expansion gap equal to the thickness of the board at the wall. Cut the board ends so butt joints occur over floor joists. These will be nailed into the floor joist later with cut nails. Stagger butt joints from row to row so they don’t line up across the floor. Make board cuts using a sliding miter saw, with this you will get straighter cuts and most rental companies should have these.

Pre-drill and face nail the first row with 8d steel finish nails to avoid splitting or use a 15 gauge finish nailer to make the job go quicker. Nail into every joist to keep this row from moving when you tap in the next rows.

After the first row, nail the next rows using a hardwood flooring nailer or stapler. With bowed board you may have to screw down a wedge to hold the board in place until it is nail with the hardwood nailer. If the gap still won’t tighten up, cut the board into shorter lengths.

If the last row installed is less than 1” use yellow carpenters wood glue along with finish nails to hold it in place.

After the flooring is installed use a 2-1/2” decorative cut nail for top nailing the pine floor at the floor joist. Mark each joist location with a string line and drill pilot holes for the cut nails to avoid splitting. Make a guide to space the nails about 1-3/4” from the board edge. Two nails are sufficient to hold a 6” wide board flat, but a wider board will require three nails. Be sure to set the cut nails 1/8” below the surface so during the sanding process the machines will not hit the metal. Top nailing wider pine is recommended to help prevent board cupping and splitting later on.