Diner’s Dictionary: Lengua tacos

What is it? More than veal sweetbreads or lamb fries or any other, let’s say, nontraditional cut of meat, beef tongue, when properly cooked, is the gateway offal, the weird food that anyone can love.

And what’s not to love about tender, beefy, smoky lengua cubes simply dressed with onion and cilantro on a fresh purple-corn tortilla? A staple of delicatessens and taquerias for generations, tongue is the talk of the town now that both types of eateries are enjoying more time in the limelight.

Where can I find it? The small, unassuming Taquiza at 1506 Collins Ave. in Miami Beach serves a picture-perfect lengua taco. $3.