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Friday, December 18, 2009

Coat Vlog #6: Hemming!

Welcome back to the coat vlog series! In this episode, see how I tested hemming methods and then watch as I demonstrate pressing up the hem and easing out the fullness of the flared skirt.Also, just to be clear on the method I'm using, it's a three inch bias strip of fusible weft interfacing. I cut it with pinking shears (this eliminates any ridges forming on the right side of the fabric), and fused it so that the bottom of the interfacing lies half an inch below the fold of the hem. And then the hem gets stitched to the interfacing. Make sense?

Also, I refer to a "herringbone stitch" a couple times, which I believe is more commonly called a catch stitch. See Kenneth King's two versions here. Here's a picture of the one I'm using, courtesy of Threads magazine.

This stitch is for sewing the hem in place (to the bias strip of weft interfacing) permanently.

That was a great Vlog post on hemming. I learned a lot. Thanks so much, Gretchen.

I wanted to let you know that I have another fun and quick craft idea on my sewing blog. Wanted to let you know in case you would prefer that one over the other for the family project. It's decorating canvas tote bags with sliced painted apples. It was so much fun, and they turned out really cute.

Yay! Hemming! Hemming confounds me. As a beginner, I find it to be the hardest thing. It's supposed to be such a small and easy step, but it's the thing that everyone will see. I have more than one thing hanging around that's finished but for the hem. It's great to have a video.

Gertie, your tutorials are really informative. I have been sewing for awhile, using only books as reference tool for my techniques and I have to admit I never really understood, "easing in fullness". I always thought "WTF do they mean?" and just kind of winged it. Now, after watching your vlog, I finally understand!!! Thank you. P.S. I'm curious about the thread you are using. It looks very strong. Is it silk embroidery thread??

I have a question about interlining. From what I've read (I am planning to make a coat next summer and I have been do some research) I thought the interlining was attached to the wool and treated as one piece before the coat was sewn together. I don't see an interlining on your wool. Are you putting one in and when will that happen?

HouseCat, it's just regular silk sewing thread. I like it for basting and hand sewing.

Kathi G, the interlining will actually be attached to the *lining* and then sewn as one. I'm using a lambswool interlining, and attaching it to the lining rather than the coat fabric reduces bulk between the facings and seam allowances. Watch the next step to see attaching the interlining to the lining!

Just wanted to say how much I love your blog and especially the vlogs, they are very instructive, I seem to keep finding myself saying "how cool!", "that's so clever!" while I watch them... :) Can't wait to see the whole coat finished!

Wow, this was SO helpful :-) thank you so much for this post! I just made a lightweight jacket out of wool and lined it with a silky (something or other that I acquired) and this would have saved me a lot of time. It had a very rounded hem as well and I ended up using vintage lace seam binding tape - I didn't ease the fullness correctly. It took me forever to sew by hand! Thankfully in the end, and with lots of careful catch-stitching it looked great. Next time I will be able to ease fullness the correct way, thanks!

Aaaah you have no idea how much this has helped me!! I have a pattern for a full skirt that I've used 3 times now and still can't get the hem right. I think I can transfer this over to that (I'm a very beginner seamstress). Thanks so very much!!!