I'm a bit confused about the versions,...So the first version is without ISP right, the second version is with ISP (and you will get pcbs for it and test them in the next few days right?) So the version you posted the design files is the second version? (the version that you'll get pcbs for.)

I have tested 2 versions without ISP header (one version with onboard regulator and one without). Both worked just fine

The first version with ISP-header is most likely at the post-office. The new version uploaded yesterday will take another 3 weeks or so before I receive the PCB.

I still recommend to wait until the major changes have been verified, but I would be surprised if it doesn't work

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob4432

Parts list is updated w/ the additional 1K resistor . Also, for the imperial measurement people (like me), Dennis is talking about using the X5R type ceramic capacitor if you don't plan to get the electronics above 85C/185F.

Bob

Very nice thanks!
I'll add the list and further explanation in post #1 when the design have been verified

.......
Sounds good with the new radio. Which one did you get?
...............
If you have never soldered SMD components before, it's gonna be a little difficult the first time. 0805-size components are not very difficult, but MAX7456 is a bit tricky.

The old (10+ years) Hitec worked very well - In fact all the Hitec stuff I have does...servos etc. So I just picked up another.... an Aurora 9
So far very pleased....amazing difference! Easy to program too - almost easier then reading the manual ! Legot explained a few things to me about the power to the module/EzUHF being a bit less then the older radio. But basically EzUHF was plug and play also......just needed to rebind the EzUHF and all works well. Even was able to reassign channels ...getting ready for PPM channel 1 to see the OSD menu

Nope... never soldered SMD before ~ don't even know what it stands for .... so if I can do it that will be a good test - looks like the parts list is going well - and I think I saw some what of a guide on what and where things get mounted - pretty colorful -

You just keep rolling !!!!

I'm still back at the "plug and play" PPM to see the the OSD menu ... just had to "purchase" before I could "plug" and "play".

and just the tantalum caps and LED are polarized, the ceramic caps and resistors are not. Also, you will have to make sure the ICs are put on correctly but that is it

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickEis

The old (10+ years) Hitec worked very well - In fact all the Hitec stuff I have does...servos etc. So I just picked up another.... an Aurora 9
So far very pleased....amazing difference! Easy to program too - almost easier then reading the manual ! Legot explained a few things to me about the power to the module/EzUHF being a bit less then the older radio. But basically EzUHF was plug and play also......just needed to rebind the EzUHF and all works well. Even was able to reassign channels ...getting ready for PPM channel 1 to see the OSD menu

Nope... never soldered SMD before ~ don't even know what it stands for .... so if I can do it that will be a good test - looks like the parts list is going well - and I think I saw some what of a guide on what and where things get mounted - pretty colorful -

You just keep rolling !!!!

I'm still back at the "plug and play" PPM to see the the OSD menu ... just had to "purchase" before I could "plug" and "play".

and just the tantalum caps and LED are polarized, the ceramic caps and resistors are not. Also, you will have to make sure the ICs are put on correctly but that is it

Bob,

I see you are not too far from me in Arizona. But by some of the words you use, I would swear you are speaking another foreign language.

I'm looking forward at trying my hands on soldering one of Dennis's boards. But I tell you I would not even consider it if I didn't know there were a few experts out there to guide me along the way.

Dennis posted a pict of the detailed soldering necessary for the MAX. In the pict was the tip of an iron. It looks like maybe the same iron I have.... only it appears I have a finer tip on mine ..... ha, so I should be good to go

I see you are not too far from me in Arizona. But by some of the words you use, I would swear you are speaking another foreign language.

I'm looking forward at trying my hands on soldering one of Dennis's boards. But I tell you I would not even consider it if I didn't know there were a few experts out there to guide me along the way.

Dennis posted a pict of the detailed soldering necessary for the MAX. In the pict was the tip of an iron. It looks like maybe the same iron I have.... only it appears I have a finer tip on mine ..... ha, so I should be good to go

I might have to get a special set of glasses

Rick

Sounds nice with your Aurora 9
Should be a great transmitter.

A smaller tip is not necessarily better. If the heat-transfer is not good enough, the solder will not flow properly to the component. But almost any heat is enough for the small legs on MAX7456.

Some people also use solder-paste instead. It contains a lot more flux, and can be easier to solder. It's normally used with hot-air, hot-plate and so on, but can be used with a soldering-iron too.

But get some good solder-wick. Even with bridges on most legs, you can clean it and get a nice result after a quick clean-up. If you have never soldered SMD before, you will get a few bridges .

It will be fun . Some mistakes will be made but they will be overcome.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickEis

Bob,

I see you are not too far from me in Arizona. But by some of the words you use, I would swear you are speaking another foreign language.

I'm looking forward at trying my hands on soldering one of Dennis's boards. But I tell you I would not even consider it if I didn't know there were a few experts out there to guide me along the way.

Dennis posted a pict of the detailed soldering necessary for the MAX. In the pict was the tip of an iron. It looks like maybe the same iron I have.... only it appears I have a finer tip on mine ..... ha, so I should be good to go

Just a quick note on the PCB. On the footprint for MAX7456, the 3 pins in each end (4 x 3 pins) is connected. That means, when you solder the IC, it's normal and acceptable that these are bridged. Just for info before anyone get frustrated

Images

should be able to add BMP180 to the list too as it is register compatible w/ BMP085. I know I have used the BMP180 in MultiWii and just uncommented BMP085. I think I have an extra BMP180 on a BOB somewhere on my workbench, when I find them (not sure how many I have left ) / it I will get your address and send it to you, just have to find it . Also have a BOB for a MS561101BA03 if you want to support that too, just need to build them too.....

should be able to add BMP180 to the list too as it is register compatible w/ BMP085. I know I have used the BMP180 in MultiWii and just uncommented BMP085. I think I have an extra BMP180 on a BOB somewhere on my workbench, when I find them (not sure how many I have left ) / it I will get your address and send it to you, just have to find it . Also have a BOB for a MS561101BA03 if you want to support that too, just need to build them too.....

out of curiosity, how did that $6 MPU6050 work out?

Bob

If you have them around and don't use them, it would be great
I use the "who am I" I2C register to verify, that the expected device is connected. You probably need to change that (or add it) if you test with BMP080.

I also looked a bit at MS5611, but the BMP085 sensor was a lot easier to find. Again, if you have it around it would be great to add support. I can always send you some PCB or other stuff in return

Regarding MPU6050. I used a nanowii with MPU6050 onboard (not a cheap clone, directly from Viacopter.eu) and the cheap breakoutboard from Ebay. I haven't been able to tell any difference in behaviour/performance. As the sensor is only used for artificial horizon and not anything really critical, it should be fine with the cheap board.

they are some where, just need to find where i 'stored' them . shouldn't be a problem w/ the bmp180. the ms5611 is available on ebay, but don't pay for one unless you need it quick as they are going for $25-$30 just for the sensor bob because the ms5611 units are expensive, and most of the ones on ebay are using the eol'd ms561101ba01 - basically the same as the ms561101ba03 but has the plastic cap and not the ss one - i have the boards, the sensors, the stencil, the parts, i just need to make a couple of them up, so no worries.

you do enough, i am good , i just need to get these to you most importantly.

that is still amazing how cheap that mpu6050 bob is on ebay...more than likely works fine even in a critical point, but sometimes you just gotta wonder. i have never purchased mpu6050s in qty or from somewhere in china, i just buy them from cdiweb for $15 a piece

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

If you have them around and don't use them, it would be great
I use the "who am I" I2C register to verify, that the expected device is connected. You probably need to change that (or add it) if you test with BMP080.

I also looked a bit at MS5611, but the BMP085 sensor was a lot easier to find. Again, if you have it around it would be great to add support. I can always send you some PCB or other stuff in return

Regarding MPU6050. I used a nanowii with MPU6050 onboard (not a cheap clone, directly from Viacopter.eu) and the cheap breakoutboard from Ebay. I haven't been able to tell any difference in behaviour/performance. As the sensor is only used for artificial horizon and not anything really critical, it should be fine with the cheap board.

Attached another connection diagrams to see what it all looks like -
Used to bring Nano 5V ground to 12V AV camera and transmitter - thinking maybe that creates a ground loop and maybe sending 12V through Nano? So in this diagram I brought 12V ground and power to AV equipment ...make sense?
Thinking about adding another filter on the 12 V side near AV as in the diagram.
Is that what those two big caps are in post 327?