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Tag Archives: victoriana

Lets face it, collars have a bad rep. Long-time signifier of uptight, highly-strung corporate slavedom or bugbear reminder of (and I really do hate to bring this up) school.

Meadham Kirchhoff s/s 2011

Well, this season it’s time for a rethink. Collars are cool. [Breathe and repeat]. And they are – literally – everywhere, from the traditional crisp, starched phantom of your past as seen at Viktor & Rolf, to candy-goth meets Victoriana-kitsch detachables at Meadham Kirchhoff.

Viktor & Rolf s/s 2011

And yes, I was banging on about this last season but thankfully the high-street has caught on, so for the not-so-skilled DIY-er’s and those whose budgets don’t quite stretch to Bulgari proportions (i.e. me and, er, me) the time is now!

Alas! Much to my ever-present shame, I am unable to attend one of my favourite fashion events of the season! (Drat, drat and double drat!) It’s been a case of work stops play with a good solid roundhouse kick to the face and the perpetually waggling finger of authority…

So, for those who didn’t know already, GFW 2010 kicked off yesterday with the Graduate catwalk collections from the University of East London, and with over 1000 students all vying for sartorial acclaim, glory and the River Island £20,000 Gold Award, the competition is (as always) fierce, or maybe – FIERCE. But, as in all things there are frontrunners, and UEL’s frontrunner has got to be – in fact, I’m going to go out on a limb here, IS – Bunmi Olaye.

With work experience under the late Alexander McQueen, her own label – Bunmi Koko – and a celebrity clientèle list longer than your arm, including Mischa Barton, current muse Mel B and Alesha Dixon, the future is already looking blinding for Nigerian designer Bunmi, and with just a quick glance at her collections it’s easy to see why…

Matriarchy, Bunmi’s GFW collection, draws inspiration from a patriarchal Nigerian cult practised by members of the Efik tribe and fuses that with the seemingly antithetical aesthetic principles of Victorian womenswear with its focus on cinched waists, voluminous sleeves and high collars.

Matriarchy, in Bunmi’s own words, is about “[…]power, royalty, status and ultimate femininity […] a collection that is luxurious and feminine, with a wild and untamable spirit influenced by the masquerade.”

Matriarchy is also set for exhibition at the upcoming Africa Fashion Week in Johannesburg from 30th June-3rd July.

Geisha’s Reform, the latest RTW collection from Bunmi Koko with its sumptuously crafted homage to shape and structure in traditional Japanese clothing and Western Art Deco architecture, is quite simply awe-inspiring…

Friday night? What Friday night? There’s always call for looking sweet and innocent on a Saturday and you don’t get much more unimpeachable than high collar white lace, a pure peachy chiffon knee-skimmer and little leather booties (very Victoriana). The – enviably on-trend – leather waist cincher stops this look from veering into nauseating Little House on the Prairie wholesomeness – no one needs to look that vestal!

OH! Liberty….you never cease to amaze me!!! Loving the Nike hi-tops…if only!!! (cue the pointless sigh of the should’a, would’a, could’a enthusiast). If I had my pick of the Nike Liberty 2011 collection it would have to be the ‘Tatum … Continue reading →

After the scandal came the show (the huge crowd seemingly oblivious to the rumoured boycot) and, while it may have been a swan song of sorts, few in the history of fashion can claim to have been as dramatic. Rebels, … Continue reading →

This truly is the end of an era and just days before the Christian Dior show at Paris Fashion Week (drama anyone!?) …But, this is fashion and the show MUST go on so who’s next for the top spot at … Continue reading →

You’d do well to bring out the marching band this Fall as Moschino embraces masculine militaria – with a curve-ball of a twist of course. Think sharp suited savoir faire and embrace immaculately tailored tailcoats, rip-roaring riding jackets and palazzo … Continue reading →

Natalie Portman speaks out against designer John Galliano and Christian Dior has yet to announce his fate as further evidence comes to light… Follow these links for more on the story & Monday’s video: http://tiny.cc/c8fhe http://tiny.cc/h3x1d Amplify’d from www.vogue.co.uk John … Continue reading →