B: Turn hook 180 degrees so back of work is facing you, push lps to opposite end of hook, pull B through one lp on hook, still with B, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook (counts as first st of row, here and throughout).

Row 2:

A: Sk first vertical bar, still with B, tks across–22 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, pull A through one lp on hook, still with A, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Row 3:

A: Sk first vertical bar, still with A, tks across–22 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, pull B through one lp on hook, still with B, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Rows 4-111: Rep rows 2-3. Project should measure 31″ in length. Increase or decrease the number of rows in order to reach the desired measurement.

Binding Off

Still with B, sk first vertical bar, *insert hook as for tks in next st, yo, pull lp through st AND through lp on hook (slip stitch made), rep from *across. Fasten off, leaving approximately 14″ yarn end for seaming.

Assembly

Form a ring with your fabric by placing your cowl matching first row to last row. Take one side of the fabric for the cowl and turn it upside down. This will form the moebius twist. With yarn needle, seam the cowl together. Weave in the ends carefully and it’s ready to use!

If you have never tried double-ended Tunisian crochet, I recommend that you try out the Dueling Colors Cowl HERE to practice. This project uses the same stitch pattern, but is more challenging with two balls of yarn in the same color while including shaping for the top of the beanie.

Special Stitch

Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks):: Insert hook from front of work to back of work between front and back vertical bars of the same stitch, yarn over, pull lp through.

Notes

This beanie is super stretchy, more like a knit beanie, unlike what is normally seen with any other type of crochet ribbing.

I’ve used superwash wool so this project can be machine washed and dried. Be aware that, if you allow superwash wool to air dry, it will lose its shape. If this happens, wash and dry again in a machine.

Project is made flat then seamed.

When turning back and forth to change balls of yarn, watch which direction you are turning the hook so your yarn doesn’t become tangled.

Instructions

Row 1:

A: With first ball of yarn, ch 30, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through (leave lp on hook), rep from * across–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees so back of work is facing you, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull though one lp on hook, still with second ball of yarn, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp hook hook.

Note: Decreasing will occur on only one side of the hat. If there is confusion, you may place a stitch marker or small piece of yarn on that side to ensure that decreasing doesn’t accidentally occur on both sides. If you begin having any problems with keeping your place, practice this project in two separate colors first.

Row 2:

A: Still with second ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks to last st (do not work last st)–29 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with first ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] until 2 lps remain on hook (one st remaining).

Row 3:

A: Still with first ball of yarn, skipping two vertical bars (these two stitches are already on hook), tks across–29 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Rows 4-17: Rep rows 2-3 consecutively. On final row, 22 lps on hook.

Row 18:

A: Still with second ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks completely across, picking up all skipped sts at the ends of previous rows–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with first ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Row 19:

A: Still with first ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks across–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Rows 20-73: [Rep rows 2-19] 3 times.

Rows 74-90: Rep rows 2-18.

Row 91: Still with first ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, [insert hook as for tks in next st, yo, pull lp through st and lp on hook (sl st made)] across. Fasten off, leaving about 12-15″ strand for seaming.

Finishing

With yarn needle, seam Row 1 to Row 91, weave strand into all stitches at top of hat, cinch to close. Weave in all loose ends carefully.

On my Facebook business page, I was recently asked the difference between regular Tunisian crochet and double-ended Tunisian crochet. It’s kind of an involved response, so I thought I would make a blog post on it.

First, I think that a lot of people understand regular Tunisian crochet. You use a long hook that looks a lot like a knitting needle except that it has a hook on the end instead of a point. You can create projects which are typically worked only from one side, without turning. It’s great for flat projects or projects which are made flat then seamed. Your project width is fully dependent on the width of your hook. You can make any width that will fit comfortably on your hook. You can make a project about three times the width of your hook (i.e., a 14″ hook will accommodate a project about 42″ wide).

One of my double-ended Tunisian crochet hooks

Now, with double-ended Tunisian, all the regular Tunisian rules no longer apply. You use the same stitches as you would in Tunisian crochet except you will be using a long-ish tool with a hook of the same size on each end. Use care when choosing a double-ended hook. Make sure it is for Tunisian crochet. There are some double-ended hooks on the market which have different sizes of hooks on each end and have a completely different purpose.

Because you are using two separate hooks, you will be using two separate balls of yarn. The yarn can be two different colors or the same color.

Because you are constantly opening and closing stitches, you don’t have to complete an entire row before you close the stitches. You can open a little bit, close a little bit, open a little bit, close a little bit. Because of this unique nature of the technique, you are no longer dependent on the length of the hook to determine the width of your project. You could literally do a king size afghan with a six-inch hook.

One of the unique features of double-ended Tunisian is that it doesn’t curl like regular Tunisian crochet. You are working from both sides of your work so the natural curling is counter-acted.

From “Crochet World” magazine, June 2011, double-ended Tunisian worked flat

Another feature people really like is that, because you are working with two different colors, you can make a reversible fabric with one side predominantly one color while the other side is predominantly another. But, you don’t have to stop there. You can also make a project with one stitch on one side with a different stitch on the other so you have two separate looks.

Many people find double-ended Tunisian to be more appealing than regular Tunisian because you don’t have an obvious “back”. The back of regular Tunisian can be a bit lackluster sometimes. That problem can be completely solved with double-ended.

From “Learn Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet” by Kim Guzman, double-ended Tunisian in the round

Once you learn the technique of opening a little and then closing a little, your Tunisian crochet world opens up and you can now make cylinders without seaming like you would for hats, cowls, infinity scarves, garments, etc. The ability to do the piece in sections opens up the ability to work in-the-round.

From “Learn Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet” by Kim Guzman, double-ended Tunisian in the round

Over the years, many different companies and manufacturers have given other names to double-ended Tunisian crochet. You will find it named cro-hook, cro-knit, Crochet on the Double, double-ended crochet, crochenit and perhaps a few others. These names were given for marketing purposes only. It’s still Tunisian crochet.

I have noticed that there has been a debate occasionally over whether double-ended Tunisian crochet is actually Tunisian crochet. It uses all the same stitches and combinations of stitches. But, because there is a hook on each end, I’ve found that some people dispute that it is Tunisian so let me offer you my philosophy.

From “Tunisian Baby Blankets” by Kim Guzman, Tunisian worked flat

In hand-knitting, you can work with a straight needle or you can work with a tool that has two needles, one at each end. You can work flat or you can work in the round. You can turn or you can work a project without turning. We still call every one of these hand-knitting.

Tunisian crochet is Tunisian crochet no matter how you look at it and no matter how many different names it has been given.

Have a look at my book Learn to do Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet, published by Annie’s in 2014. This book is very thorough. It teaches you how to work double-ended in both flat and in-the-round with step-by-step photos. I’ve also included step-by-step photos on how to work seamlessly in a moebius join. If you are interested in double-ended Tunisian, I highly recommend this book. It is perhaps the funnest book I’ve ever written in Tunisian crochet.

I positively love the look of working double-ended Tunisian crochet in-the-round. To me, it is the most fascinating of any technique in the entire scope of Tunisian crochet. I know that you’re going to love it just as much as I do!