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With a Bridge cut with a width of 52" inches (approximately), making it a B-52
(ok I can hear the groans from here.)

Originally Posted by HANGnOUT

Hotel Grizzly!

you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave

Originally Posted by slowhike

now that's looking like a nice, large place to hang the bridge!
i can see where you would be concerned w/ the open ends, but between the folded flaps like you have in the pictures & possibly an end cover or two, i'd say you'll be swinging in style!
looking good!

More end cover will be nice. Hoping to put something together before the Mt. Rogers hang so I can be the most stylish one there

Originally Posted by greggg3

Excellent Grizz (and nice footwarmer!)

The photos also make it easy to see what you mean by using triangular shaped end caps too. Why the seam in the middle of the endcap, is that a zipper there?

I made the end-cap from two scraps. The line you see is where the triangles come together. I'd hemmed the edges before thinking of using a flat-felled seam there, so instead I joined the edges by sewing them both to bias tape (which isn't doing any edging at all, it is just a convenient width).

Originally Posted by FanaticFringer

Looks good Grizz. Might have to try those clips on my tarp. Seems like this would be more of a warm weather no blowing rain tarp pitch. What's your opinion on that?

If there was blowing rain from the open end I'd re-center the tarp. The hammock is 7' long, the ridgeline is 10' long. I use the method TeeDee recently re-described (I don't recall where it came from originally, maybe TeeDee from last summer) where the tarp is attached to a ridgeline by a couple of prussiks. Makes re-centering a matter of loosening lines, moving tarp, re-tightening lines or re-staking.

But as it is shown I've got good coverage on 3 sides. So to mess with the tarp the rain would have to be coming from the un-anticipated (or un-planned for) direction.

Originally Posted by FanaticFringer

Could call it a tarp shed.

A hammock shack maybe? The Jacks could get a side line going on this as a shed for lawn mowers.

..........
If there was blowing rain from the open end I'd re-center the tarp. The hammock is 7' long, the ridgeline is 10' long. ......

Grizz

Grizz - trying to understand what you have here.

The ridge line is 10' - that must be the tarp ridge line of the JRB 11'x10' tarp.

what is the distance from the top of one suspension triangle to the top of the opposite triangle? Looking at the picture, if the tarp is 10', it looks like the distance from triangle top to triangle top must be at least 15' or more. Reading TeeDee's articles - I figure from his directions that his hammock ridge line is about 10'. Yours looks like it would have to be much longer if you had one.

Could you shorten and keep the triangles within the tarp?

That looks to be one huge distance from triangle end to triangle end. What is the minimum tree separation you could use to hang.

Also, it looks like you are hanging pretty high on the trees. How high do you have to hang on those trees and how far apart are they?

Trying to get an idea of the sizes involved here.

Also, are you using the grip clips on the bottom of the tarp? Looking at the JRB site, it doesn't look like they have tie outs at the bottom positions you are using for tie outs.

The ridge line is 10' - that must be the tarp ridge line of the JRB 11'x10' tarp.

You can hang this tarp either with an 11' length and 10' width,
or 10' length and 11' width. The sewn ridgeline is 11', as you'd expect
(because rolls of fabric tend to be closer to 5' wide than 5.5' wide). There are a number of tie-out lines along the 11' long edges.

what is the distance from the top of one suspension triangle to the top of the opposite triangle?

Have to approximate using some trig here, because the rig is down right now. Lemme see....

OK, just under 13.5' . You can work it out for yourself knowing that my rings are spread 36" apart, that the length of one side of a suspension triangle is 48", and typically the angle of ascent of the suspension triangle is about 30 degrees.

Looking at the picture, if the tarp is 10', it looks like the distance from triangle top to triangle top must be at least 15' or more.

Considering that you're look at pictures, that's not a bad guess, within about 10% error.

Reading TeeDee's articles - I figure from his directions that his hammock ridge line is about 10'. Yours looks like it would have to be much longer if you had one.

I'd be surprised if his was only 10'. You'll see why in a minute.

later edit: did what I should have done the first time...went back and looked at TeeDees article. Yep. 10' is the longest ridgeline length he describes... you'll see why in a minute.

Could you shorten and keep the triangles within the tarp?

So this is all about compression force on the spreader bar. My hammock is 7' long. To fit under a 10' ridgeline means the horizontal distance from spreader bar to apex of the suspension triangle is 18 inches. At a 30 degree angle that means a height of the suspension triangle is 20.8 inches. With a 36" spreader bar that makes the cotangent of the base angle 18/20.8 = 0.86. With the suspension lengths I have the cotangent is 18/44.5 = 0.4. So, all other things being equal, shrinking the suspension triangle "to fit" more than doubles the compression.

For another set of poles that might be fine. It might be fine with my poles. I've got funky handles though on them; frankly I continue to baby them.

TeeDee spreads his hammock out 39", and it is also 7' long I think. With a 10' ridgeline he'd have to have a suspension side length of 28.5". Pretty sure he used to run to 36" or more.

later edit: his article says 27.5" length for the side of the suspension triangle. He recommends a spreader bar no longer than 0.75 of the width of the fabric under the spreader, which for the hammock dimensions he gives is about 42". Spread out that wide, with a 27.5" suspension side, gives the cotangent of the base angle to be 1.18, so the compression force on the pole is just under x3 more than what I've pictured.

That looks to be one huge distance from triangle end to triangle end. What is the minimum tree separation you could use to hang.
Also, it looks like you are hanging pretty high on the trees. How high do you have to hang on those trees and how far apart are they?

With a bit of trickery to get a biner (on the webbing) up flush to the tree, the minimum distance is about 14'. The trees you see in the pictures are 21 or 22 feet apart. I typically attach the webbing about chin level on me, so that's about 5.5 feet up.

Trying to get an idea of the sizes involved here.

Also, are you using the grip clips on the bottom of the tarp? Looking at the JRB site, it doesn't look like they have tie outs at the bottom positions you are using for tie outs.

Thanks.

yep, grip clips. cool little do-dads.

later edit : in light of paying attention to these dimensions, perhaps I'll try tightening up the suspension triangle...using a different set of poles first!

.......later edit: his article says 27.5" length for the side of the suspension triangle. He recommends a spreader bar no longer than 0.75 of the width of the fabric under the spreader, which for the hammock dimensions he gives is about 42". Spread out that wide, with a 27.5" suspension side, gives the cotangent of the base angle to be 1.18, so the compression force on the pole is just under x3 more than what I've pictured.......
Grizz

That brings your compression forces down a lot. His sample output lists his compression force at 144 lbs, which, if I understand your "x3" means yours is about 144/3 or about 48 lbs. Seems like you could use almost anything for a spreader bar with compression forces like that.

That brings your compression forces down a lot. His sample output lists his compression force at 144 lbs, which, if I understand your "x3" means yours is about 144/3 or about 48 lbs. Seems like you could use almost anything for a spreader bar with compression forces like that.

My forces run closer to 60 or lbs, but I'm heavier than TeeDee. I imagine that's the cause of the difference.

It's real easy though to hit forces that are a factor of 2 larger than these, just by sitting at one end. Or by having too shallow an angle on the suspension line (I snapped a 1200 lb rated 2.8mm Spyderline, in the field, by not paying attention to angles. Had spare cord (learned that lesson already), learned to pay attention also.)

I've heard that Walmart sells cheap hiking poles. If that's true I'll pick up a pair and try out a much reduced suspension triangle using them. I'd like to get the suspension within the tarp!

.
I've heard that Walmart sells cheap hiking poles. If that's true I'll pick up a pair and try out a much reduced suspension triangle using them. I'd like to get the suspension within the tarp!
Grizz

i used a set of the poles from wal-mart (about $10 each) for a while.
one note of caution... a weakness in the cheap poles is in the tightening device.
they tend to slide under much pressure. so they may not answer your questions on the bridge.

I've heard that Walmart sells cheap hiking poles. If that's true I'll pick up a pair and try out a much reduced suspension triangle using them. I'd like to get the suspension within the tarp!....

Grizz

Yes, thats my aim. With a 10' ridge line, it will make using a tarp a lot easier.

I've got my eye on those Kelty Noah 12. they are supposed to be 12'x12'. All the pictures show them used as diamond. I want to try in an A pitch. If it works in an A pitch, that would make it plenty big enough for a bridge with a 10' ridge line. I could even sew on some extra tie outs and pull the corners back in to sort of close off the ends.

Ordered 4 of those Gossamer Gear 3/8" pads, will cut them down and use with the poncho liners I have.