June 29, 2006

I had returned to Busan Station and was seeking the subway when I linked up with another foreigner who was also taking the same train. We went walking around Busan Station to see whether there were any shops there.

We wandered down the Main Road in front of the Station, and came to a Red Archway where a notice claimed "Foreigner Shopping". That was good enough for me, and as I was seeking a pair of walking shoes, we turned down into the small side street.

The first corner had two Russian Shoe Shops, and they both had shoes in Western sizes..large...but, neither took credir card payment, so we just walked on turning right. Many of the Signs were in Russian,so it obvious that this area was catering to a Russian clientele. The street was mostly bars and small shops, and outside one were two very European looking painted ladies, and it was the that I realised that we were actually in the publicized 'Red Light District' right opposite Busan Station.

I remembered the email about Korean Men assuming every blonde is a Russian Hooker, and was told that groups of Russian women get their passages paid, to come and work here as 'pleasure girls' and they certianly looked exactly that.

There were many other european looking girls walking the street dressed in some amazing outfits. Others were sitting in open doorways or at small tables, and most were very friendly and happy to exchange a big smile with me. Now I started to examine the men more closely and most looked like they were off a boat, and the Internation Ferry and harbour was not far away from this area. Many of the older guys were not too keen to catch my eye, but the younger guys mostly gave me grins as it was obvious I was gazing everywhere in rapt delight.

It was very colorful, and as evening was falling, the lights were starting to come on, and the whole atmosphere started to change, from a bustling small shopping street to a festive evening on the town. As it got later, the atmosphere changed too, and started to feel different too.

It was nearly time for the train, so we headed in the direction of the station and went to book my KTX back to Daejeon.

June 26, 2006

When it comes to the question of the most beautiful travel destination on the Korean Peninsula, almost all Koreans give the same answerGeumgang. With beautiful valleys, bizarre rock formations, huge waterfalls and mostly untouched nature, the area around the mountain, at least from the Korean point of view, is nothing less than the most beautiful and scenic in the world. Several religions have long considered this area highly sacred, and a number of small Buddhist temples and hermitages point to this area as the dwelling place of the gods.

Just one problem: the mountain is situated in North Korea and has long been as isolated as the rest of the country. But the North in 1998 began to allow tourists from South Koreans and the world to visit this area. At first, the mountain was only accessible by boat, but since 2003, bus service began to take tourists across the inter-Korean border by land. As an intern with the Korean National Tourism Organization in Seoul, I received a unique chance to go to the North on business with two European journalists writing a travel feature on this tour. This was an opportunity not to be missed.

My excitement rose during the bus ride from Seoul to Sokcho in northeastern South Korea. But during the hour-long journey from Sokcho to the Geumgansan Condo near the mountain, I could not suppress a feeling of uneasiness. The condo was situated south of the border but the iron fences and South Korean troops next to the road made us realize our proximity to the North. Rain, wind and a stormy sea created dramatic scenery, and from a distance, we saw searchlights from what I guessed were North Korean patrol boats. “These are South Korean fishing boats!” said the staff at the hotel reception desk while smiling politely – not knowing that he just destroyed my suspense that had built up.

“Mount Geumgang is like a dream, especially during the wonderful spring or autumn seasons,” said a tour guide in the welcoming meeting. Unfortunately, summer and the monsoon season were underway. Had I not brought my huge umbrella, I would have gotten drenched. Almost 400 tourists gathered at the South Korean Quarantine and Customs Office, and soon ten Hyundai travel buses hit the road for North Korea. But the two journalists – Rachel from England and Colin from Ireland -- and I comprised the only three Western tourists. After just a few minutes, we reached the North’s customs office. Seeing North Korean soldiers in their easily recognizable huge round caps raised our pulse while going through customs.

Then an unexpected problem abruptly arose: Colin did not get his passport back and was told to leave it at the customs office for no significant reason. The polite intervention of a South Korean guide had no effect. Only later were we told that all visitors receive their passports after the end of their journey, including Colin. “The North just wants to remain unpredictable, that’s all,” said a fellow traveler before we boarded our buses again. Next came the most impressive part of my journey. Passing small villages and huge fields, I saw for the first time the everyday lives of North Koreans, especially those of farmers and other field workers. There were small villages with simple houses, often in poor condition, farmers working in the fields with ox carts due to the lack of machines and malnourished cows half the size of their counterparts in South Korea. And did I mention that soldiers were ubiquitous? Every 500 meters saw guard posts left and right of the road to control the convoy of oncoming buses. But soldiers also stood in fields not far away from farmers, presumably to control their efficiency rather than protect against an outside threat.

After a few minutes, we reached Onjunggak, a huge complex with a shopping center, restaurants and convenience stores. Wholly owned by a South Korean company and staffed with workers from the South, the complex was a base camp where all hiking tours to Mount Geumgang start. Hundreds of plastic raincoats and dozens of spare umbrellas were quickly handed out to prepare us for our forthcoming adventure.

A few minutes were all it took to discover that the tourist brochure did not lie about Mount Geumgang. The breathtaking but bizarre landscape seemed to retain its authenticity more than most other national parks in the world. But I had to share the idyllic concept of being alone with nature with about 400 other travelers given the group nature of the tours. The Lonely Planet tour was thus non-existent.

Hiking is a favorite leisure activity by Koreans, and I quickly got the impression that the concept of a leisurely walk in the mountains greatly differs between Korea and Europe. Rachel, Colin and I began the tour relaxed and trying to absorb the unique atmosphere at normal walking speed, stopping at scenic places. But most of our Korean travelers maintained breakneck speed until we soon find ourselves at the end of the group. We did, however, finally feel alone with nature. “Many Koreans regard hiking in the mountains as a sport above all,” explained a tourist guide. With a short smile and a wink, he added, “They find it important not to be last.”

Because of the rainy weather, most hikers including ourselves decided against tackling the more impressive but very steep Mount Manmul course in favor of the Guryong waterfalls. We passed small resting places where young North Korean women sold snacks and souvenirs, with American dollars the only accepted currency in the tourist area. Coincidentally, the trail also had huge rocks with North Korean propaganda in red Korean script, mostly glorifying supreme leader Kim Jong-il and especially his late father, Kim Il-sung. Finally, we reached the highlight of our tour: the enormous 74 meter high Guryong waterfalls, ranked among the three biggest on the Korean Peninsula. We were amazed by the view and the unbelievably fresh air. We wondered how long we actually walked, with ten to 15 km coming to mind. After a guide said four kilometers, we expressed slight disappointment in our faces. But the heavy rain made the four-kilometer hike feel like 14 in the mountains.

After the tough trek, we ate a well-deserved lunch at the Mongnangwan Restaurant of delicious dumplings and mixed spicy rice. The restaurant was operated by the North and all of the pretty waitresses were locals. That reminded me of a Korean proverb I heard that men are more handsome in the South and the women more beautiful in the North. Was this true? I pondered this issue and concluded that the attribute of beauty is something definitely possessed by all women on the peninsula.

After this philosophical approach to Korean culture, I was ready for the second part of our journey: hiking to Samil Lake. Located in a beautiful setting east of Mount Geumgang, the lake is close to the East Sea. But because of the drenched soil, I ruled out another long walk on foot and “hiked” by bus instead. Meanwhile, the rain stopped and the sun finally came out, thus I enjoyed a scenic walk along the lake to Yeonhwadae Pavillion. The view from the facility was incredible, overlooking the lake and the surrounding area. But even more interesting was a North Korean singer who performed traditional folk songs and the enthusiastic South Korean audience that sang along and gave thunderous applause. To see how Koreans from either side of the peninsula shared a common culture and tradition despite political differences and their long division was a truly moving experience.

During the bus ride back to the South, we passed huge construction yards. The Hyundai Group built all streets and buildings connected with the Mount Geumgang tour, with new projects under construction. One of them is a huge golf course catering to wealthy travelers from the South, and provided a stark contrast to the small North Korean farming village that was nearby.

We looked back as we passed the inter-Korean border, with many new impressions in our minds. This journey enriched my Korean studies and was a unique opportunity to enjoy a breathtaking mountain hike, not to mention visiting the most isolated country in the world. The trip was definitely the most impressive event during my six-month stay in South Korea. I do hope, however, that I can one day return to Mount Geumgang without passing a border.

....This story was found on Tour2Asia...and I will never travel there except through Juergens Trip.. Thank you for the story:

June 21, 2006

Gyeongbokgung (Gyeongbok Palace) is a palace located in northern Seoul, South Korea. It was the main and largest palace of the Joseon Dynasty and one of the Five Grand Palaces built by the Joseon Dynasty.

The palace was originally constructed in 1394, by Jeong Do-jeon, a Korean architect. It was burnt down during the Japanese invasion in 1592. After years of neglect, it was reconstructed ending up as a massive 330 building complex. Standing on 410,000 square meters of land, it was a symbol of majesty for the Korean people and the home of the royal family.

and the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion (national treasure number 224), This is depicted on the 10,000 won Korean banknote.It stands on 48 pillars and is in the middle of a Lotus Pond. It is a very tranquil and beautiful setting, surrounded by green parkland and trees. The pond is full of Carp.

The Kings Pavillion was the private area of the King. It is also very beautiful and serene, and situated in the middle of a lotus pond. This was the place the King had his private meetings.

The smaller Pavillion was for the Private use of the King and the Queen. Again it was set in a beautiful Lotus Pond where many waterbirds visited. The pond was full of Japanese Carp and gold fish. It was a serene and idyllic setting.

June 20, 2006

I went with a tour Mercury Travel who picked me up in a small fully packed bus. I was the last passenger to be picked up. There were travellers from Sweden, California, Italy, Japan, New Zealand, and UK. It was a very mixed lot who sat silently in the bus or slept.

The tour guide talked the full trip up about the history of the Tunnel and the Korean people. It was the same information I had already read on the brochures and Internet, with small extras, like..." North Korean people can live with the mines as they can smell them, but sometimes they smell wrong and get blown up."

Panmajeom is situated 55 Kms north of Seoul, and is the only place in the DMZ where visitors are permitted. This is the village established on the ceasefire line at the end of the Korean War in 1953.

Our first stop was Imjingak Park where we had an hour to wander the grounds, see Freedom Bridge, and climb to the Observatory, visit the small Temple, see the Train and be closely watched by the sentries on the boundaries, who would wave their arms if a camera or tourist looked in their direction. Our passports were collected here, processed and returned.

Freedom Bridge was also known as "the Bridge of No Return" is along the road from Seoul to Sinuijji. It is closed to traffic.

There is a barrier which is festooned with Unification Prayers, colorful ribbons and messages. It is the only road to the North through the South and is closed and guarded by sentries in blue check points along the sides.

On February 16, 1952, Freedom Bridge -- a focal point of worldwide attention during the Korean War-- was officially opened and became a major link between the truce site of Panmunjom and Seoul, Republic of Korea.

The significance of the bridge dates back to the turn of the century. Initially, two railroad bridges spanned the Imjin River side-by-side as part of a railway that stretched from south of Kaesong to the switching point at Munsan-ni. For many years the bridges served peaceful purposes, but with the communist attack on June 25, 1950, the structures became arrows aimed at Seoul as the onrushing invaders stormed down the Kaesong-Munsan corridor. One bridge was destroyed in 1951. In late 1951, the present bridge fell into UNC hands as the communists pulled back. When the war front advanced beyond the 38th Parallel, control of this span became vital as it represented the primary means of supply across the Imjin River.

In 1953, this bridge was used to return prisoners of war of both sides, who were allowed to make a free irreversible choice on whether to return to their place of origin. For the North Korean and Chinese prisoners of war held by the UNC, this meant choosing between living in the South or Nationalist China (Taiwan), or being repatriated to North Korea or the People’s Republic of China. Many thousands chose not to return to their communist homelands; only a handful of prisoners held by the Korean Peoples Army/Chinese Peoples Volunteers went north.

From the Observatory you can look down across the bridge and also across the land.

Then we were transferred to a Red Bus, and driven to the Second Infiltration Tunnel. Here we watched a very dramatic movie,saw the Eternal Flame, and went down the tunnel wearing Yellow hard hats with our belongings packed in lockers, so no camera. The weather was very hot and most uncomfortable. The tunnel sloped down and the climb up again took some breathing as it was quite humid down there.

It is estimated that there are at least 20 tunnels that have been dug under the DMZ for the North Korean army to infiltrate into South Korea. It is estimated that 30,000 soldiers could enter South Korea per hour through one of the tunnels.

Four of these tunnels have been found. The third tunnel to be found is within 44 km's of Seoul, Korea. The first tunnel was 8 km's from Korangp'o, a battlefield which was devastated during a surprise attack by the North Koreans during the Korean War.

The first evidence of KPA tunneling operations emerged in November 1973. When ROKA DMZ guards reported numerous explosions that started north of the DMZ and gradually drew closer. Aerial and ground reconnaissance failed to provide any reasonable explanation for these explosions, but road improvements and the construction of fortifications were noted along the northern edge of the DMZ. To keep track of these explosions seismic equipment was deployed along the DMZ. This equipment soon yielded voluminous information, recording 16,685 explosions on 877 different occasions in the Ch’orwon area alone. Similar numbers were also recorded in the areas of the major north-south routes along the length of the DMZ. However, the majority were located in the west, along the routes that lead to Seoul.

Then we returned to the bus and back where the first bus took us to Dora Observatory. We were piled into a hall and given a smart lecture by a saluting soldier in clipped english, allowed to peer over the edge at North Korea. We saw the Ghost village, the two flagpoles, one reputed to be the highest in the world, and scenery that looked like Nonsan ricefields, edged with mountains that were stripped of timber.

Dora Observatory is on the South Korean side of the 38th parallel. Situated on top of of Dorasan (Mount Dora), the observatory looks across the Demilitarized Zone. It is the part of South Korea closest to the North. Visitors can catch a rare glimpse of the reclusive North Korean state through binoculars from the 304 square feet, 500-person capacity observatory. They will be able to see the North Korean propaganda village situated in the DMZ, a remnant of the old prosperity of the North, and can see as far as the city of Kaesong. The observatory is very close to the Third Tunnel (Third North Korean Infiltration Tunnel), a massive North Korean-dug tunnel which was planned as a pathway for invasion to the South if war had erupted and it had not been discovered. The Dorasan Station, also nearby, is designed to be the station that connects the railroads of the South and North one day in the future.

Here I met with a Naval soldier from New Zealand who told us 16 nations were represented here in the UN corps.

We drove on to Dorasan Station, which will be the starting station for the Train from here through to Spain crossing through Russia.

it is a station in name only; there is no hustle and bustle of passengers or cargo. This station is in deep sleep. That is because the train cannot pass over the truce line that lies a short distance ahead of us.

Extract from a Speech by the Korean President when Bush Visited Dorasan Station Opening...http://kn.koreaherald.co.kr/SITE/data/html_dir/2002/02/26/200202260004.asp

¡ãPresident Kim Dae-jung and U.S. President George W. Bush receive a briefing on the current state of the world's most heavily-armed border, as well as on ongoing inter-Korean rail construction, during their visit to Dorasan Station near the Demilitarized Zone(DMA) on Feb. 20.

Right now, we are witnessing the last remnant of the Cold War. The stalled train engine as well as the cut and badly rusted rails symbolize the half-century of division of Korea into South and North. The sorrow of the Korean people permeates the air in this spot.

More than 10 years ago, Germany achieved reunification, and in that place, the conflict between ideologies has already come to an end. Today, only the Korean Peninsula is still under the cloud of an anachronistic Cold War regime.

The return was uneventful. The tour guide went to sleep in the front, and so did the Japanese couple behind me.

I chose to be dropped off at Gyeonbok-gung Palace which turned out to be another awesome adventure.

June 16, 2006

The year when I was twenty-one,(John that year was twenty-three)That was the year, that was the spring,We planted the white magnolia tree.

"This tree," said John, "shall grow with us,And every year it will bloom anew.This is our life. This is our love."And the white magnolia tree grew and grew...

Oh, youth' a thing of fire and ice,And currents that run hot and white,And its world is as bright as the sun...

I was twenty-one...And I wore a plume in my hat.And we went to the movies and wept over" Stella Dallas",And John sang "Moonlight and Roses"(a little off-key, but very nicely really),

And we hurried through our crowded daysWith beautiful plans, boundless ambitions, and golden decisions.There is so much the young heart clamours for,That it must have, and that it cannot live without,And it must be all or nothing,For aren't we the masters of creation?

Oh, valiant and untamed were we,When we planted the white magnolia tree!And the white magnolia grew and grew,Holding our love within its core,And every year it bloomed anew,And we were twenty-one no more.

No more untamed, no more so free,Nor so young, nor so wild and aflame were we. Dearer to us grew other things:Easy sleep, books, a day's quiet holiday,Good talk beside a fire, the beauty of old faces...

We have known many things since then:The death of a child and the bitter lessonThat a heart which breaks can mend itself again(That it can and must be done),And what loyalty can mean,And how real a word like courage can become,And that solitude can be rich and gratifyingAnd quite different from loneliness...

There is so little the serious heart requires:Friends, faith, a window open to the world, Pride in work well done, And strength to live in a world at warAnd still maintain the heart's own private peace...

Dear Heaven, I give thanks to theeFor things I did not know before,For the wisdom of maturity,For bread, and a roof, and for one thing more...

There are many places around the world, but the ones that mean the most are the ones you have a special experience in.Here is my List of 100 Places where I shared a memory that is Unforgettable.Create you Own List and add it to mine…I have been to every place here and every place has a story.

Ladymaggic has invited you to copy the following list at Lists Of Bests:

100 Places to See with Things to Do===================================

Message from Ladymaggic:Create your own list of favourite places and Things to do... Maggi

*Remarks : 1. Monday and National Holiday is No Tours. 2. Passport Required 3. DMZ Tour is under control of military. Schedule could be changed without prior notice.

*DescriptionD.M.Z.(Demiliterized Zon)is the only divided country in the world. After the Korean War (June 25, 1950), and negotiated and then designated the DMZ [demilitarized zone] 2km away from the truce line on each side of the border. As one of the last relics of the Cold War, the DMZ attracts a great deal of public interest. DMZ tourist sites have been created to quench peoples’ curiosity on this unique area where tension and peace coincide. These sites are especially popular among foreign tourists. This is a very special tour destination in , which offers a real vivid eye-opening experience of the Korean War and a dramatic sense of the tragedy of the separated family members between the two from the division of the peninsula. The 3rd tunnel is only 44 kilometers or less than an hour drive from Seoul and was discovered in October 1978. It runs through bedrock at a depth of about 73 meters below ground. Capable of moving a full division per hour plus their weapons, it is evidently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul.

Imjingak, located 7 km from the Military Demarcation Line, is now at the forefront of tourism related to the Korean Conflict. It was built in 1972 with the hope that someday unification would be possible. Three-storied Imjingak is surrounded by several Monuments, Unification Park and North Korea Center. 400 kinds of photos and documents showing the stark reality of North Korea are displayed in the North Korea Center of Unification Board. Outside Imjingak, there are 12 kinds of tanks and crafts on display that were used during the Korean Conflict. Mangbaedan, which stands opposite of Imjingak, is famous for the place where people from North Korea visit and perform ancestral rites by bowing toward their hometown every New Years Day and Chuseok. The Bridge of the Freedom, South Koreans crossed when they came back to their mother country from North Korea, stands behind Mangbaedan. In front of Imjingak, there is the Gyeongui Train Line which was destroyed during the Korean Conflict in 1950. It has been under construction since 2000. Every year many events for unification are held at Imjingak. Imjingak is now one of the famous tourist spots for foreigners in Gyeonggi-do Province because it is possible to visit without going through any security check points.

June 11, 2006

In the valley of Swat, civilizations are begotten. Different religions had flourished here. This historical land has seen the rise and decline of various religions.

An appreciation of craftsmanship developed here among the people, who according to their customs and traditions, achieved perfection in craftsmanship in the form of sculpture.The statues, engraved by these engravers, can be seen on the rocks. The sceneries and statues, carved on these rocks give a picture of their religious life.

Apart from the rocks and stones, cloth, leather, doors of the houses, woolen products, Tawnai (a Swati wooden cupboard of exquisite style), Takhtposh (wooden prayer-may) and other articles of daily use have been embroidered and carved so beautifully, that the style is unmatched. All this reflect the somber aspects of the Swati life of those days. In this connection, great work has been done in Swat Kohistan particularly in Bahrain, Kalam, Utror, Gabral and Matiltan, where epitaphs, minarets of mosques, pillars and fireplaces have been carved in an excellent manner. Some exquisite models of Islamic architecture can also be seen here.

But it is tragic to say that exquisite Swati embroidery and carvings are disappearing from Swat. The businessmen in the trade of the antiques have been selling this great Swati heritage to foreign tourists.On account of this, the beautiful embroidery and carving is sifting to

foreign countries. It is very much needed that a large number of the carved and embroidered articles should be retained and saved to prevent our gold historical and cultural heritage from total loss. Here, bedstead, woolen blankets, embroidered caps, mats, waistcoats, pitchers and pillows are embroidered in a very fascinating way. These things are now a days made in Swat on a large scale. This also includes some embroidery and carving. The value and price of these articles with a qualitative point of view. The ornaments and dress worn by woman in the far-flung areas of Swat Kohistan recall to mind the grandeur of this ancient world of civilization. The jingle of these traditional ornaments takes one back to the centuries old world of this ancient civilization.

The relics of these ancient civilizations can be seen in the shape of sculptures, or articles of daily use made of iron and copper, weaving of cloth or half pictured inscriptions on the rocks. This ancient art of Swat is known as Ghandhara Art.Big statues of Buddha are found in various places of Swat, which is a picturesque feature of

Angang-eup (안강읍/安康邑) is the second-largest subdivision of Gyeongju City. Its 139 square kilometers are home to about 35,700 people. [1] Situated next to Gangdong-myeon in the city's northern tip, it is a significant town in its own right. Angang Station is a regular stop on the Donghae Nambu Line. The town center lies on the Hyeongsan River, near where it meets the small Chilpyeongcheon stream.

There is very little research information on Angang on the web. Yet, it is a fascinating and historic place to visit. There are stories of war and fighting there and American Troops in the area, there was an article on a Bird Watching tour by Korea Birds where 162 types of birds and more were listed, and there was a Business tour where the Seowan Village was mentioned.

The Seowan Village is an ancient traditional Village which is now mostly uninhabited. Koreans can stay in one of the homes by appliction, but the homes and the village have to stay open for tourists and visitors.

It is surrounded by a clay/brick wall and inside are the different homes and buildings. They are very ornate and very intricate with paintings and eave detail, and all seem to have underground floor heating. This is the original central heating which is done so well in Korea. Fires are lit in fireplaces under the house, and a system of pipes run through the clay floors that heats the building and the floors are warm.

Korea is very cold, and this is necessary for survival in winter. The homes get very warm and cosy with these heated floors. Koreans also sit and sleep on the floor, and it is is very comfortable on the flat mattress to sleep on the floor under many quilts and covers. Many of the hotels here have these Korean rooms which consist of simply a rolled mat in one corner and no other furniture or extras.

The homes are all adjacent to each other, and the area is clear with no garden or plants. Outside the village is the river, and many of the stones used in building would have come from around the river. It is very picturesque and very beautiful and very cool with the trees lining the river bank of solid stone.