News:

Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.Classified ads are not allowed on the forum.

Author
Topic: Stahl Step Headers ('69 Z28) (Read 3892 times)

This question is in response to an earlier statement that Jerry made. He recommended the Stahl #105 (new) step 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" step headers. Is there a reason that these are more desirable for a 1969 Z/28 than the #106 Original in 1-3/4"?

My experiences the 1 5/8 on the stepped allows for better low end torque and once you get into the rpms the 1 3/4 allows the exhaust to move out of the header. A full 1 3/4 you loose the low end and with the 1 5/8 you leave a little on the table in the upper rpms. So a good stepped header is a great street car header.

well I am actually inquiring for another vehicle, I have a 64 C/10 with a 327 that is a little over 400 hp, I have some headman headers on it right now but they are only 1 1/2 primary tubes. The motor revs up a little higher than 8k, so similar to the 302. It would be nice to pick up a set of those headers for it. The price on the website is like $1200 though.....a bit much for me. the hedman were a little under $400.

well I am actually inquiring for another vehicle, I have a 64 C/10 with a 327 that is a little over 400 hp, I have some headman headers on it right now but they are only 1 1/2 primary tubes. The motor revs up a little higher than 8k, so similar to the 302. It would be nice to pick up a set of those headers for it. The price on the website is like $1200 though.....a bit much for me. the hedman were a little under $400.

I'm guess that 400hp is flywheel? A 1 5/8" primary tube header would work fine with your setup. 5-10 peak hp is not going to be noticed unless you have access to a chassis dyno, your car is consistent at the track or a very fine tuned buttometer.. As for the reverse lockout I do not know of any long tube header where it would be able to be used. Just my experience & couple pennies worth..

Thats 400 rear wheel hp. I was looking at some stainless steel headers they are around $850, but they do not step. I do like the idea of having the low rpm torque, and then still have the high rpm flow, but it isn't worth $400 more right now. The other thing I have to factor in right now is also clearance for my Z bar, I may switch to a 6 speed and slave cylinder in the near future though. So if I sell a few items and have some extra $, who sells the stahl for the best price, or can you only purchase through them? I appreciate the input

Honestly I am not aware of any dealers for Stahl. Due to the fact that they custom build headers as well. Thats not to say there isnt dealers; Im just not aware of any. If I were a header company I would want the end user dealing directly with me to make sure the header fit the application and setup due to so many options and combinations. Most people do not realize just how complicated headers can become with other aftermarket parts and components. If you have aftermarket heads, mid plates and/or running a non conventional transmission then usually dealing with a company that is willing to build a header or knows their headers will work with certain components then that is your best bet to reduce the frustration factor. I have built a few custom headers and I applaud the guys that have this ability cause I have seen some headers that are pure works of art. Not to mention the fact that they also produce horsepower.

I personally would only run stainless if I were buying headers if I was planning on keeping the car for a long period of time. They will last a very long time. Only thing that really fatigues on stainless are the welded areas but that is usually on headers that are supporting a turbo. Most other applications they will last longer than the engine. lol

What is your overall expectations with the car? What do you want to ultimately do with it? Street/strip or pure strip?

FYI, years ago when I installed Hooker Headers on my Z and had the interference with the reverse lockout, I took the original bellcrank (think that's what it is called) to work, and one of the guys made a copy out of 10 Ga I think. Then I installed the copy and noted where it interfered with the header. Heated it up and made about a 1" offset on the leg where the rod to the reverse lever goes. Installed everything and it works just fine while clearing the header. Original unmodified bellcrank is with my parts collection.