M.A.I.L. (Maille Artisans International League) is an international community of artisans and volunteers dedicated to the advancement of the chainmaille artform. We aim to encourage the sharing and spreading of information, archiving as many techniques and weaves as possible.

I am looking at doing one of my first inlays and I was wondering if I can get your input. I am looking at doing a traditional e-4-1 weave with ring of about ID 1.26 and WD 4.5 using brass and stainless steel, blackened or normal.

1. would this ring size be good for this inlay?
2. would the pattern be visible and clear on an inlay of 1 foot by 1 foot?
3. would someone be able to suggest the best way to map the inlay out? I use a mac and unfortunately a lot of the program helps won't work.

Thanks for your help.

Once you stop learning, you stop living, so...
Ask questions.
Try new things.
Share what you know.

AR 0.28 ? are the ID and WD switched? AR 3.5 makes sense. I'm just eyeballing the design and doing some quick math. If you mean 4.5mm you are going to really lose those nice circles unless you go alot bigger then a foot. I know the 16 petals probably has some significance but you'd have better luck with 8 or even 6 petals.

AR 0.28 ? are the ID and WD switched? AR 3.5 makes sense. I'm just eyeballing the design and doing some quick math. If you mean 4.5mm you are going to really lose those nice circles unless you go alot bigger then a foot. I know the 16 petals probably has some significance but you'd have better luck with 8 or even 6 petals.

Now that is what happens when you do things late at night!
Yes, the ID and WD are switched.

With the design as it stands. (it is the patch for a martial arts I am studying and I was going to make it for my instructor on his promotion)

what would be a good ring size for a 1foot by 1 foot.
Using that ring size what size would it have to be?

This is why I have never done inlays before. I pick to complex a design and I never get the ring size correct.

Once you stop learning, you stop living, so...
Ask questions.
Try new things.
Share what you know.

MM I made a test render using your ring data, on a 64x64 grid - that should finish a slightly bit smaller as a foot squared.

Raw (source image, resized, color standardized, black made a bit brighter to be rendered well, core simulating aged Copper, border brass, saved as .GIF image, to be fed into igp2gov) - as you see in the resulting render, some 'pixel-pissing' (ring color exchange) here or there may be needed to get better pattern borders.

Result (rendered in PovRay)

Hope that helps - the image(s) can be provided in other resolutions if needed/wished - just the resize grid of the original image had to be adjusted to adjust inlay size - the one shown here would use around 4000 rings...

Human societies are like chain mail.
A single link will be worth nothing.
A chain is of use, but will break at the weakest link.
A weak weave will have the need to replace weak links.
A strong weave will survive even with weak links included.
-'me

Wow ZiLi you are amazing. That is exactly what I was hoping it would look like not real tight, but tight enough to see the pattern. You did such a great job. I wish I had the computer skills and computer so that I could do it myself If you don't mind I would love to use what you have done to make my inlay.

Now I just need to get together the materials, make the rings and start weaving.

Once you stop learning, you stop living, so...
Ask questions.
Try new things.
Share what you know.

With this inlay I am looking at using Parawire but I cannot find out any information on the wire.
Has anybody ever used their wire for an inlay?
Would the rings hold together under the weight at the size rings and inlay I propose?

Thanks for your help again

Once you stop learning, you stop living, so...
Ask questions.
Try new things.
Share what you know.

Hmm. Not being a Parawire guy I cannot help you with this question. But once the real ring data are known (wire dia, FINAL ring ID), we can redo the maths, and I can resize the raw image again and re-render then, to a bit higher, printer-friendly resolution, maybe even with shaded guide lines added, so all fits well.

Human societies are like chain mail.
A single link will be worth nothing.
A chain is of use, but will break at the weakest link.
A weak weave will have the need to replace weak links.
A strong weave will survive even with weak links included.
-'me

I've used parawire pretty extensively in inlays...but sadly not their 16 ga, just 18, 20 and 22. It's been fine...except that when I started, I didn't think about the size difference between their 18 ga and TRL's BA 18 ga. LOL.

...once the real ring data are known (wire dia, FINAL ring ID), we can redo the maths, and I can resize the raw image again and re-render then, to a bit higher, printer-friendly resolution, maybe even with shaded guide lines added, so all fits well.

-ZiLi-

I am over half way done with the inlay I forgot you offered this, (it would have been so much easier if I would have remembered) but I figured that I would give everybody the stats that I have anyways just in case you wanted to do something similar. I am using all 1 - 1.2mm wire and getting an AR of 3.2 (if I remember correctly). I will try to post a picture of the progress some time soon.

Once you stop learning, you stop living, so...
Ask questions.
Try new things.
Share what you know.

The Maille Artisans International League
(M.A.I.L.) and any affiliates thereof will not be held responsible for
any injuries or mishaps in the use or misuse of any information presented
at this website whether intentional or coincidental.

Maille construction is not intended for children
or intended to be taken lightly. Care must be taken at all times, as sharp
hand and power tools may be used, as well as other materials capable of
causing injuries or repetitive stress disorders. Take precautions and
have fun mailling responsibly.