A tour of the Perito Moreno Glaciar could be the best thing to do here. Normally I avoid group tours, but some things are so spectacular that you have to go with the flow. And you are unlikely to get up on the ice on your own because it is deep within the Parque Nacional and hard to access without a boat. A friend and I had been granted a special permit to go there on our own several years before, but we had come with skills and equipment and had to write a letter explaining ourselves. But that’s another story…

After the boat ride there is a short walk during which the view gets better and better. A lodge at the snout of the glacier affords a lunch-and-loo stop before you strap on traction devices and head up on to the ice. The temperature is actually quite warm and every few minutes a boom from across the lake tells you that a chunk of ice just fell. You never see the ice fall because by the time you hear it the event is over. Sunburn is a double hazard since it is reflecting off the ice, too.