[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' instead[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: getdate(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' insteadSolaraGuy.com • View topic - How to sound deaden your car and fiberglass too!

Ok, well lately i've been getting ready for summer. Now that i got the rims, next is the sound. I will be updating this threat as i go with as many pics as i can. In these first sets, it's not my car, but my friends 07 subaru legacy. The same principles apply.

To start, you will need your supplies. This here is a box of 150sq ft of Edead V1. This stuff is some of the best you can get at the price $1/foot. This is way over kill but, whatever, we'll double up in some places.
Now you gotta start. We started in the trunk. You need to remove all the pannels and get down to the bare metal. This was easy for this car, and should be easy for the solara aswell since it's mostly just plastic plugs with thousands of little teeth on it. A panel toon will make this a sinch, if you don't have one, get a tiny thin crow bar from home depot and grind a large notch into it.

Now get out our material and have at it.

Cut your material into large flat shapes to get every surface area. We used a rubber roller to help press out any air bubbles and make it stick. If your having trouble getting it to form over the metal shapes, hit it with a heat gun and it will loosen right up. The key is to take your time and press it in nice and firm.

When your done, your trunk should be all shiney like this.

Now it's time to start putting stuff back in. Be sure to punch holes in the deadener for all the factory plugs.

Are you sure we did any work cause i don't see anything?

Now on to the doors. This car original had sound deadening work done from the local tweeter. Let's just see how good a job they did with their expensive dynomatt. These doors were simple. All it was 3 screws, and a punch of plastic tabs. The solara doors should be similar.

Well lets start patching it up and adding more to make the door solid. We added a layer inside the door behind the glass to stiffent the outer panel.
Perferated sheet metal works great to plug up those large holes so we can add more deadener.

The completed door, lots more deadener and it really does make a huge difference.

Time to put the doors back together.

That's it for now. I will start on the solara this weekend and post lots more pics. Enjoy!

Last edited by [SMAN] on Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Aotoyota wrote:one other suggestion which I do is to wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol to get everything clean. that way no dust or grime will be prevent the deadening from adhering to the body..

Yes exactly!!! We actualy did that, first we vacumed out metal trunk to get all the big stuff, and then used a diluted alcohol in a spray bottle and got all the basic stuff. But thankyou for stressing that point...

This isn't even the half of it, i still have to deaden my car aswell, and then we are fiberglassing aswell with 2 different setups. In his car we will be molding the whole thing into the spair tire to make it hidden. and for my car, i'm doing it into the side panels. So you folks will get to see both styles...

Ok, a few things first. If you are going to do this project, you will need a few tools. Most importantly, go and download the factory service manual. Not only does it have exploded views and step by step deconstruction of the entire car, but it also has the tourque specs for all the bolts so you don't over or under tighten them during reassembly. The second things is you need a panel popper tool. Now this is easy. I went down to home depo and got one of their mini crow bars for $5. I then took out my dremell and grinder wheel and made a deeper and larger knotch in it. It now slides in perfectly around each of the plastic parts and you can just yank em out with ease. I had the entire trunk stripped in under 10 minutes. You will also need a tourque wrench and a metric socket set. Also, a philips head is needed. I won't go too much into deconstruction since the manual describes it perfectly, but i have highighted key parts with yellow circles. WARNING: DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY BEFORE TAKING OUT THE SEATS OR YOU MAY SET OFF THE AIRBAGS

The floor just comes out as it is not attached to anything.

The cover comes off by twisting the black circle in the middle, then untwist the bolt holding in the spair tire. It's pretty easy to figure out.

The milk holder comes out by takign out that bolt. There is a snap clip on the bottom, so just give it a good yank and it will pop out.

The back panel is jsut held in with 5 snap clips. 4 are on top to hold it down, and on is in the middle near the bottom to hold it in. Start bul pulling out from the bottom, then just jull the whole thing up and it will come out.

The side carpeting is held in with 2 plastic panel plugs with teeth and a screw in bolt. Use your panel poper to take out the two panel plugs, and then unscrew the screw in the lugage mesh holder. Once that screw is out, the piece will comeo ut with a little wiggling.

You need to 'unhock' the middle carpet to get otu the sides. This is done just by pushing up on it to unhook it.

Your finished trunk should look like this.

And this is what i took out of it.

Ok, onto the interior. The back carpeting comes out with several plastic pins. The top for unscre 1/4 turn then pop out, the rest you must press in the center and then you can pull them out. Failure to do this proper can result in braking them.

The foam behind the seats just slides out. It's there to jsut give some support to your but.

The rear cushin pops out buy pulling up on it. If it was anythign like mine, you need to place your hands on either side of the plug and pull up really really hard. Try not to bend the thing though so you gotta get realy close. This took me like 6 tries to get it up.

Consult the FSM on how to remove the tops of the seats. It's really easy and the describe it well

Once the pins are out, the carpeting comes otu easy. Disregard the wire, it's for my GPS antenna.

The seat belts slide out through the slot in the plastic. Don't forget to pull out the pannel just above (where the fm radio amp is). It just pulls out cause its 3 snap clips.

Next, the side panels. These are held in just by snap clips. so just pull around the edges and eventualy it will come out.

Now, to get the top panel out, you need to unbolt the seatbelt bracket. the cover just pops open fromthe inside. Does anyone know what that peice of metal is for? It's just losely hanging there on both sides. Once this is out the black panel below it just pops out as well. All these panels are held in with snap clips.

The rear deck has 2 snap clips in the middle, and then several guides in the back, so pop it up a little bit, then you can slide it out

This carpeting stuff isn't even secured to the rear deck, so it will come out. be carefull aroudn the seat belts. I didn't want to unbolt the tensioners because the FSM says they have to be calibrated if they are touched.

Next unbolt the bottom of the seatbelt. Note the top of the seatbelt with the cover exposed.

Front seat bolts are easy. The back two have plastic covers that just pop off.

Under the seats are air bag sensor plugs and stuff. Un plug them and seperate them from the seat (be sure not to damage them in any way (this includes steping on them later)

The center console has 2 screws on each side, as well as two upfront by the shifter.

There are also 2 bolts inside that need to be removed to get teh whole thing out.

Dis regard all those wires, i needed to put them somewhere untill i could properly route them. Underneither the door sill panels are while plastic clips that hold the wires in place. These need to come out to get the carpet out. The carpet is 3 pieces, front driver, passanger, and then a large piece that goes across the back.

Once you have it all out, your car should look something like this.

And here is everything i took out, while some people lable and store everything. I like to have mine organized chronologically by height

For those of you that didn't get the joke, it means the most recent stuff goes on the top of the pile.

Last edited by [SMAN] on Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:38 pm, edited 3 times in total.

DAY 2
Not as many pictures today, but it took me ALL DAY to deaden this thing and get the interior back in. and that was with a friend helping me.

Here you can see the start of the deadening. Be sure to poke out any holes you are going to need, and to cut out around the bolts so that they fit secure and tighten propely.

While i was at it, i thought i'd run my 0 guage power wire. I just cut a slit in the rubber gromet on the driver side. This pops in right behind the glovebox and is perfect to use. Just cover it up with some weather stripping or caulk or something when done.

Here you can see that we got the interior done after several hours. It's still a bit cold up here, so a space heater works great! That bottle of detailer has actualy been filled with alcohol instead to clean things. Note the weather panels in the rear sides. We pulled those off, slowly, and added a full layer to the outer skin. We had to clean this as aparently there was a lot of dirt inthere, probably why the plastic is there, so we then reapplied it. I little blast from the heat gun makes the glue stick again.

Since we ran the power down the passanger side, we run the RCA's down the middle and onto the driver side. Be sure to run them along the sides instead of the flat surfaces, or the injection mold on the bottom of the carpet won't line up properly.

Here we have all the wires needed for the hideaway GPS unit that kenwood uses.

And that is it for the interior. The car is back together and assembly just goes in reverse. It is a bit of a tight fit on the carpet but the car is MUCH MUCH quieter. I do however hear a lot throguh my doors and there is some sound leaking in around the windows. So far doign just the interior (no doors or trunk) i used 3 and a 1/4 rolls.

Last edited by [SMAN] on Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.