This is a discussion on Ohio Roll Call within the North Central States forums, part of the Regional Discussion category; subieworx:
Can't come done for the install, but let me know if you want any "tips" for the DP install. ...

Is it any different significantly from the WRX downpipe? I was told most aftermarket exhaust parts for the WRX could swap in for the STI exhaust. Aren't the turbo flanges and the hangars in the same places underneath?

Parts are the same....
Space is way different. IC MUST come off. And it's tight. Getting it back on was worse than the WRX. The best way is to take off the drivers side IC bracket held on by two bolts. Also, with ALL of us having broken bolts where the down pipe bolts to the turbo, I would be extremely careful. Start WD-40'ing now. Once or twice a day, soak the bolts.... Be super careful unbolting. Have spare bolts handy, and a way to saw off anyting broken or your SOL. We lost 3 hours trying to get past one broken bolt. You will also have to have a way to cut the heat sheild. Cutting right along the seam worked well.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bluerex47 not if you know what your doing lol. worked at an auto shop for 6 months and worked at trw (big brake co.) for 4 monts also. if you ever need/want help and i'm around i'll join in. [/QUOTE

Then you'd be one of the first. Even major gear heads struggle with bleeding brakes. Shoot, I've even seen a high dollar builder struggle to get the air out of a setup! Not saying it can't be done, but I've found the best method involves not-every day equipment. ]

Originally posted by fatgroundhog
Then you'd be one of the first. Even major gear heads struggle with bleeding brakes. Shoot, I've even seen a high dollar builder struggle to get the air out of a setup! Not saying it can't be done, but I've found the best method involves not-every day equipment. ] [/B]

interesting...i agree it is hard to get air out. but with two people (one to pump brakes and one to open/close bleeder) it isn't that bad. just start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. guy in driver seat puts it to the floor, open bleeder, close bleeder, release brake. repeat until 3 full pumps of fluid come out of the caliper and your set. must be easier with fluid already in the system i've never done a completely dry setup.

New vehicles are exempt for the first two years from original title date. If a vehicle is less than two years old but has undergone a title change or is being titled in Ohio for the first time, a test is required.

"This is my WRX. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My WRX is my best friend. It is my life. I must master my WRX as I must master my life. Without me, my WRX is useless. Without my WRX, I am useless."

if you have a 2004, then you should not have to have an echeck until 2006. since your car is awd, you can't do the sniffer test as they cannot put an awd car on the rollers. unless you specifically go to one that is made for awd cars as well, and if you do, well, i'd laugh at you. haha.

they are just going to plug into your obd2 port to check for cel lights and do the visual. if you are catless, put the stocker back on. i've heard about all the heresay i'm going to about this issue with cats. if the person checking your car has an inkling of what they are doing, they will look for the downpipe cat. if they don't, they are very stupid or just don't care.

point is, you should be fine if you play your cards right.

03 wrx - 300whp/270wtq

Originally posted by zoophagy The people that work there are, for the most part, retards. I used to work there.

Just for reference, when I went to get mine checked at the E-Check in Morraine, OH they didn't do a visual inspection one bit. I also don't think they would have been able to trace the smell of your catless exhaust to your car either. There are 4 staging lanes there and lots of old beaters were there, idling a cloud of emissions.

I think you probably could make it through with no cats and the AccessPORT mapping, but then again, if you fail you have 30 days to re-test and put that midpipe cat back on.

Although in Shibby's case, you should be good until your birthday in 2006. My car was purchased out of state, so I had to E-check right when I registered it here in OH, and then again this year because it's an even year (my car is an even year) and was required before my BDay in Sept.

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