It seems to have good reviews from both Amazon US and Japan, and not expensive.

I am interesting to get one mainly for daytime long exposure photography. Saying “day time long exposure” I am not mean cloud and or water moving but more of “urban scene” with car and people moving. I has been using combination of a polarizer + timing of the day or shoot indoor low-light + multiple exposure and layer blend it in Photoshop with fairly success but not a fun process. You know..., I have to shoot many image, the files are big which make my computer run very slow every time I process massive number of large files in Photoshop.

What do you think about the filter?

Any better alternative I should check out?

ND100000 is overkill for what I want to do? If so, what is your suggestion? (I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.). I will be more than happy to see sample images here and if you can let me / us know your setting, it will be highly appreciated.

It seems to have good reviews from both Amazon US and Japan, and not expensive.

I am interesting to get one mainly for daytime long exposure photography. Saying “day time long exposure” I am not mean cloud and or water moving but more of “urban scene” with car and people moving. I has been using combination of a polarizer + timing of the day or shoot indoor low-light + multiple exposure and layer blend it in Photoshop with fairly success but not a fun process. You know..., I have to shoot many image, the files are big which make my computer run very slow every time I process massive number of large files in Photoshop.

What do you think about the filter?

Any better alternative I should check out?

ND100000 is overkill for what I want to do? If so, what is your suggestion? (I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.). I will be more than happy to see sample images here and if you can let me / us know your setting, it will be highly appreciated.

I believe that filter is for photographing a solar eclipse. I doubt it will work in the application you propose.

I did this with a Vu sion 3 stop ND in the shade on a sunny day, F11 3 second exposure

In the sun with f11 a 1 stop, 2 stop and 3 stop stacked, I could do 0.6 of a second.
I came to the conclusion the 1 and 2 stops were no use except for if I wanted to capture something very fast in the sun with a shallow depth of field shooting 1.4.

If you want the 3 stop one, it's very cheap on B&H in some filter threads.

I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.

That filter should be about 16.5 stops. That's a lot. In bright sunlight you could easily end up with a 10+ minute exposure. Sunny Sixteen would give you ISO100, f/16, 1/125s, add the filter and you'd have something like ISO100, f/16, 12 minutes. Even opening up to f/5.6 would keep you in the minutes. That would pretty much eliminate all and any ghosting unless you have people sitting/standing fairly still for most of that time. Or have very dense/slow moving traffic.

You may be able to photograph one of these. But I would use a very long lens.

Actually, the image you show is more a display of shutter speed than ND filters. Images such as this had a effective shutter speed around three millionths of a second using specialized cameras where the image sensor (film) was stationary and shot a single frame. The cameras were known as Rapatronic cameras. Rapatronic camera - Wikipedia
"For a film-like sequence of high-speed photographs, as used in the photography of nuclear and thermonuclear tests, arrays of up to 12 cameras were deployed, with each camera carefully timed to record sequentially. Each camera was capable of recording only one exposure on a single sheet of film. Therefore, in order to create time-lapse sequences, banks of four to ten cameras were set up to take photos in rapid succession. The average exposure time used was three microseconds."
ND filters were not used during the tests.

Remember the exposure triangle - from that you can guestimate the ASA (ISO) and aperture of the camera. By the way, nuclear explosion's produce a lot of light.