Getting Started

Dial before you dig - It’s important to know where the underground services are located prior to excavation so contact your local authorities.

Ensure you have all the tools needed to dig your hole, and have made allowances for the amount of soil you will be removing.

Installing a Preformed Pond

Simply place your preformed pond in the spot you would like to see it. Mark a line around the pond using sand or line marking paint that is 100mm larger than the pond itself and then dig the hole only down to the depth of the plant shelf. Position the pond in the hole once more and push down on it so that the base of the pond leaves a mark in the soil. This is the mark of the area that you must continue digging down to the overall depth of the pond. This method will save you unnecessarily digging out and refilling soil that didn’t need to be moved. If there are no plant shelves in you pond then you can dig the whole area down to the depth of the pond. Spend a little time to get the base level, as this will make the finished water level perfectly even.

Once you have dug your hole, place the pond into its final position and half fill it with water to help prevent it from moving. Back fill around the pond walls using sand or top soil. If you find that it gets hard to pack, use a little tap water to wash in the sand or soil. Repeat this process until the hole will accept no further sand or soil.

If you wish to cap the edges of your pond, place a wet cement mix around the outside and slightly higher than the ponds lip. Once the cement has dried a pond sealer should be used to seal the cement. Now place down your caps and give them a good tap with a rubber mallet to ensure they are secure and level.

With the pond filled and edging completed it’s time to plant out your pond. It’s a good idea to have a mix of marginal plants that rise above the water, surface spreaders whose leaves spread out over the water and full aquatics that are totally submerged.

A third to two thirds of the pond should be covered by plants but be careful if you’re considering Koi as they’re known to make a meal of plants. If you do have a Koi pond you can still have plants in your system by using our floating rings that float on the surface and protect the plant.

Pump and filtration systems should now be connected and turned on with the exception of UV lights. UV lights are left off for a period of 4-6 weeks so that the beneficial bacteria have a chance to build up in the biological filter. The length of the cable of any products used for the pond such as pumps and lighting should not be altered. Please contact your supplier before cutting any plugs or cords. Further information on filtration and UV lights can be found in our FAQ section.

It’s a good idea to let your pond establish itself for a week or so prior to introducing fish but if you can’t wait that long you can condition the water using treatments like our Clearpond Biostarter. Even after using these products you should only introduce a few fish into your pond so you don’t shock the system and potentially harm your fish. Additional fish should then be added every couple of weeks until you reach your desired amount. A general guideline is no more than 1 kilogram of Koi for every 1000 litres of water or 2 kilograms of goldfish per 1000 litres of water. The more fish you have the bigger the filtration system you’ll need.

Hopefully this guide has helped you build the pond of your dreams. Now you can explore the rest of the website and learn about the products and techniques that will help you maintain your pond and keep it looking as good as it did when you first built it.