Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Really good climbing, a pity about the gear. Start on the ledge above SOH. Off-balance moves up a L leaning seam get you to a stance and a very lonely carrot bolt. From there sequency and thin moves see you to the top. Easier if you reach around to the R. Potential for a very effective deck-out if you fall from near the top. A good candidate for top roping.

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to belay at the trees on the large ledge.

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley". This climb gets far more attention than it deserves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the good climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, the L most is probably the best option, but they all suck!

No good. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP offers basically no protection and is a desperate and scary lead for the novice climber. A large block at half height provides the crux as well as the only decent piece of pro!

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

An absolute must do for the aspiring hex-clanking, hemp rope-using, old school, lord of thrutch! The horrible tight chimney to the L of AS. A difficult move off the top of the pillar and fairly dodgy pro all the way add to the ambience of this climb.

Start up the finger crack in the V-groove R of Lape, step off the top of the pillar, but continue out to the arete. Up this shaky affair past a roof to a ledge. Continue up and around R to finish. Absolutely desperate, with quite small and shallow gear at the crux!

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

Classy climbing up a visionary line. Go up the broken corner R of NR, to some rooflets. Past these on the left, passing bolts. From here, veer up and L (nut possible), then begin angling diagonally to the arete. From there, veer L to the top on super thin holds, and quite exposed climbing.

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to hounour Rick Whites' dream of a bolt-free cliff.

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan.

The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing.

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. An optional direct start up the desperate corner and crack goes at grade 19. This used to be 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag. One alternate start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The 14 variant starts 6m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down).

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face: beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and chain on a tree.

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber.

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks stating off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement.

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

If you arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

A very strenuous outing and an excellent exponent of flared hand jamming. The start of this route is quite challenging. Step R into the climb after going up CF for a few moves. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the top. Stepping on your rope and gear back be a bit of a hassle. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route as described.

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. Layaway a cruxy move at 2/3rd height, and then easily to the top.

Marked y the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born!
Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

The horrific thrutch up the desperate start of this route is no fun at all. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars!
Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing.

Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top.

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD.

An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting.

start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! Great beginner lead, with lots of bomber gear placements and good stances. A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW.

The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics!

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R, small wires providing excellent pro. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. Good gear makes this a great climb for beginners to start leading. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly.

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here.

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this disgusting knee and elbow destroying body chimney. You should really shoot yourself if you are seriously considering leading this route!

The dark corner capped by a small triangular rooflet really deserves to be more popular. Difficult and bold climbing on good pro' leads to a tough move around the roof. A tough finger crack finishes off this classy route.

Hard and grunty climbing on one of the sexiest looking aretes to be found. Start off the little ledge above WC then slap, crimp and wobble your way up past one carrot bolt and 2 FHs to the top. Avoid the temptation to grovel off L and you will be rewarded with some beautiful exit moves!

Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember.

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

FA: Fred From, 1976

Faki Ledge

The next four climbs are on Faki Ledge. To reach this ledge, go up the 5m climb in the corner R of Plume called "That's not a Twelve".

The twin crack system capped by a small roof to the L of Faki. A bumble up the start of this route will hopefully not dull the senses. Some tricky moves above adequate but slightly spaced protection see a good rest come to hand below the roof. Hand traverse L under the roof and around onto the face (crux). Strenuous and sustained moves to the top are sure to bring a smile to your face.

The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. From the ledge, up the line of least resistance R to the top. Belay using trees and whatever natural gear comes to hand. From the belay, walk about 10m R (facing from the cliff), and you will find the rap chain above Plume.

Bold and strenuous climbing with not much in the way of good protection! Start at the crack just R of Faki on brilliant thin hand jamming. Fron here, pack your spare undies, move up the arete for a move or two, and then R and up through the bulge! Although there is adequate pro (just), it is still a very serious proposition.

Brilliant climbing up the dark corner to the R of Christian. Up easily for 7m to a stance. Release a blood-curdling howl and tear up the hard lay back line to the top line a frenzied madman! Technical jamming and layback sequences provide thoroughly absorbing and sustained movement all the way. Milk the rest at half height, as that's all you get. From the ledge at the top, one hard move onto the wall and you can step L onto Plume Ledge. Finish here, or get extra "old school points" by thrashing up the final wide groove above.

A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above.

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

Crappy. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG. Difficult moves up an even more difficult crack leads to a rest at a tree. Kepp plugging away, saving energy for the final onslaught in the last moves!

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement.

This route is very well named, and a contender for the greatest sandbag ever at the original grade of 15! If you must subject yourself to this torment, go up the top of the pillar R of OLM. Climb up the horrible off-width, which is also very strenuous and fiddly to protect.

The bolted arete starts up CC for about 5m, and then steps out. It is really good, however the bottom section features from brittle rock. Up past the fixed hangers, trending slightly R, to eventually finish at the chains of SA.

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1974

Warlock Ledge

The next eight routes start from this Ledge. The best of those is 'Sorcerer's Apprentice' and 'Yankee Go Home'.

Classic crack climbing, an excellent example of jamming at Frog. Start at the obvious crack on the far L of Warlock Ledge. A tricky start to get established in the crack (watch out for the loose rock), and then magnificent jamming up the line. Finish at the ledge and rap chains above.

Variant finish to 'Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles' and by far the better way to go. Avoid the final chimney by stepping onto the R face and up past a bolt. Great exposure and brilliant crimpers make this the preferred way to go!

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to fnish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

The direct start up the off-balance and diabolically smooth start goes at 21. To avoid this abuse of your body, you can go up YGH for a move or two, and then step across to the ledge. Up the twin crack system, with the final moves around the huge overhung chock stone being an absolute show stopper! The FFA details are shrouded in mystery, however Rick White, Chris Meadows and Mike Meadows climbed the line with some points of aid in 1969.

You will need to eat your spinach for this one! Two ropes are the key to success on this exposed and wandering route. Layaway the arete R of Warlock and up delicately to a stance. Up to the thin orange corner capped by a roof. Step R just before the roof, up, and gain a wobbling stance on the left wall. Control your leg's desire to impersonate Elvis, and climb L up the exposed and steep face towards the hanging flake. Flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beatiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

A complete classic, this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

Small, short and horrifically desperate. If you're keen for a change of scene, however, and have recently made out your will, this could be the one for you. Go straight through the roof, without going into Odin. Levitation abilities may be handy.

This route was climbed on the 10th anniversary of the discovery of Frog. The gear is excellent but spacious; however, stopping to place it makes things a lot more exciting! Up the obvious line R of TGON featuring very technical face and crack climbing moves to the stance. Follow a thin seam as the difficulties gradually ease to the top.

Confused climbing but worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete on shaky RP's (or just solo it) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton. Step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton. The climbing eases off towards the top.

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

An absolute classic test piece, locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A rap chain can be found in the tree about 6m above the first ledge as you top out.

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

The variant finish to SB is a very classy little outing. Climb up SB to the overhang. Take a large breath, step L up and around the overhang to a bolt. Follow the line to the arete and up a thin crack to the top.

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #4.5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing!

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m. Alternatively, you can start up HG and then step L at this ledge. From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at 2/4 height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Either rap off the small tree, or go up the broken corner at the back and rap off the MMT chains (single 60m rope on stretch).

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your effort! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of 75. Blast up the long corner with superb gear, crack and bridging moves throughout the entire climb. Top out on Conquistador ledge. Rap chains await, however you will need two ropes to get to the bottom.

A nice variant finish to TOTGA, but it simply isn't as good as the others. Climb about half way up TOTGA, then step R (following a seam) to a bolt on the wall. Continue out R and up the arete passing another bolt. Easily to the top.

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's mos welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

The 3rd of an unsurpassable trio. A desperate start on pin scars, locks, friction and prayer sees you established in this daunting corner. Continue up this monster pump fest with every move just as good as the last. Save some energy for the last few moves... it has sent more than one flailing would-be ascentionist plummeting into space. Some of the best gear at Frog keeps this climb sane.

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

Overgrown and overshadowed by its company it received little attention for years. A recent cleaning and addition of a piton down low (it was originally led with a pre-placed RP) has made it a more attractive proposition. Bridge up tree to get piton and an RP. Thin bouldery moves lead to very enjoyable and friendly climbing above.

Start off the ledge between Brain Death and Hello Sailor. This is the L of the 3 obvious lines. Start up the long corver with a feisty little move at 4m. Blast for glory all the way to the top, watching for loose rock on the way. Natural anchors and chains at the top, the easiest way to get off is to rap off the chains: 2 ropes are required. The chains are hard to find; look around and they will appear.

Not as good as the previous 2 routes. Although the actual moves are fantastic, there are far too many loose blocks and holds to make this climb enjoyable. Dodgy pro can also be found in abundance; if you're into that stuff, you should love it!

FA: Trevor Gynther, 1979

Baby Staysharp Pillar

Directly below 'Gone and forgotten' is a small detached pillar. The routes on this pillar are on the back side.

There are two climbs on this pillar worth mentioning, Myopia (barely acceptable) and 'Baby Staysharp'. There are another three solo climbs on the downhill side of the pillar, all done by 'Kevin Pearl', none worth the effort.

A fun little climb whose holds definitely live up to their name. Start at the fixed hanger on the arete, then step out L passing another FH on the way up. Top out easily to the 2-bolt anchor. Rap or solo off the back to get down.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Andrew Barry, 1983

Past Baby Staysharp Pillar

This climb should never have existed. Directly below HS is a large hole in the ground. If you are totally bored, and have run out of pencils to poke in your eyes, lower into this pit of despair and climb back out. Poor protection completes this climb's classy credentials! This climb quite often gets used for what God clearly first intended... as a toilet. Proceed at your own risk.

Used to be graded 18, so it was the scene of many a bruised and battered ego. Start up the initial corner to a gruntologist's fantasy move. Finish with much style to the top. To get off, wander down R (facing the cliff) to the rap chains above Hollywood Rattlesnake.

Hard! Up the desperately blank corner to a piton that looks like it was placed about the time that Capt. James Cook landed. Continue up with very thin protection to a bolt at 1/2 height. Slightly easier climbing to the top... but not much.

Serious climbing in an exposed and photogenic position. Start directly above BGWES, climbing the R side of the pillar that Angel Rider finishes on. Up the crack, then some very hard moves past the bolt to the top. Magnificent, but terrifying. Get off as for AR.

A very impressive onsight. Up the thin seam that splits the face 2m R of BGWES. Tendon-rupturing moves above RPs see you to a hard move at 4m. Continue up the line with classic moves and even better gear the whole way.

This climb features the quirky little Frog grading habit that the first 5 moves don't count when finding the grade. The moves off the ground are diabolical, and feel closer to 25. The stars and grade count only if you have a high runner pre-placed to protect this sequence. If not, remove all stars and add a few grades. The climbing after this is brilliant, and deserves to be more popular. However it is tricky, sustained and sometimes strenuous to protect on the lead.

An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is good, despite appearances. A good lead head is essential.

this climb is desperate to protect in the first half, although barely adequate protection can be found. Levitate and bridge up the initial strenuous corner to a stance at 1/2 height. You can escape this craziness by going up BC for 5m and then stepping L. If you do this, the grade drops to 21. From this stance, blast up one of the most magnificent finger seams that Frog has to offer! A rap chain at the tree above sees you off.

A fun little top rope problem. Start off the top of the detached pillar that marks the half way point of micron. Straight up on the poorly protected (ie bounce off the ledge) wall, on this holds. Finish as for Micro. Rap chains can be found at this tree.

The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! A rap chain can be found at the tree.

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap as for Micron.

Very good climbing, but a little tricy to protect at the crux. Up ER for 3m to the cave. Step R and follow the diagonal to the arete. Up this on fantastic rock to finish up the wide crack as for Catharsis Variant Finish.

This improbable arete is apparently still waiting to be lead ground up (pure style). Levitate up the arete using friction, glue, and anything else you can get your hands on to complete the extremely technical moves that are required to finish this route. You can get some form of protection by placing a high runner in Catharsis. Join the original line where the diagonal meets the arete.

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

Good face climbing up the broken orange wall. Excellent protection and moves abound, although it would be a lot better if it were longer. Scramble off the ledge to the R.
Addition: If you prefer not to try the scramble it is possible to rap off the big boulder. Just be sure to do a test pull.

Directly above FAFF is another headwall. Start up the R side of this to the first bolt. Step gingerly around the arete to the 2nd bolt. Easily to the top. Well worth the outing. Rap from the tree. Rob Staszewski has lead this route without the bolts... but most people are just not that hard, and choose to clip them!

This climb is loads of fun! Up to a hard move getting around the small rooflet. From here, climb on fantastic jams to a ledge. Finish here on natural anchors. Alternatively, you can climb the very easy corner at the back of this ledge for a further 5m, and you will come across the rap chains attached to the large tree directly above.

This climb is the 4th great climb of its grade in the area, and probably the best. Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. From here, rock poetry follows for the rest of the route. Finish as for FE.

A completely disgusting pile of crap that is a blemish on the face of Frog. The large chimney formed by the huge detached pillar being pushed out by the massive chock stone above. Even break-stroking, flannel-wearing, thrutch masters think twice before choosing to climb this disgusting chimney.

More rubbish. Start at the crack about 1m R of RF. Trying not to stray onto a more sensible line. At 1/2 height, step R onto the face, forget the run out and climb up on good holds. A jug, gear and sanity can all be found at the stance near the top.

FA: Stuart Camps & Paul Grey, 1983

Straight Man's Fear Ledge

Directly above SMF is a small orange wall capped by a tiny roof. Go directly up this on friable flakes and dodgy gear. Gear can be placed in the seam on the L to keep life sane. One cool move at the roof is all that recommends this little climb.

The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top.

FA: Robbie Allen (TR then free solo), 1983

Mr. Bojangles area

Ten (10) routes are scattered along the sloping hill side between 'Rhyolite Fruit' and the 'Oppenheimer's Monster Pillar'.

You can get to this area by scrambling up the ramp to the right of 'Rhyolite Fruit', and then along an indistinct path. The first four (4) routes are located about 30m to the right. Even further to the right about 50m or so you will locate Mr Bojangles Pillar.

The epitome of desperate new route seekers at work. Higher up in the gully in between FA and the 'Mr. Bojangles' pillar is a very short little orange pillar. Climb up the front of this past 1 bolt. This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a great route.

Well worth the trip. Start at the obvious cracked buttress that forks at about 6m. This classic jug and jam fest can go either way from there, the R variant probably slightly more popular. Both lines are equally challenging.

What a contrived waste of time. Go up the moss-laden slab to the R of MB on to a ledge. From there, go easily up a fun little pocketed wall to the finish. No worthwhile protection can be found in the bottom 2/3 of this route.

Further R you can find this short little orange corner hiding in the scree...the time you spend looking for it could be better spent, although the climbing isn't actually that bad.

FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1983

Ockerphillia Pillar

Next is a distinct pillar feature known as the 'Ockerphillia Pillar' which has a detached rock pillar on the downhill side with a large cave like cut away section. There is a thin tree growing in between the main pillar and detached pillars.

Extremely graceful and elegant climbing straight up the front of the pillar. There is no worthwhile protection to be found, and a fall would almost certainly be fatal. A truly daring and impressive effort.

Past Ockerphillia Pillar

The next routes are located as you continue the cliff face around to the right past 'Ockerphillia Pillar'. This is the magnificent, orange and white pillar that you see as you walk around past 'Okerphilla Pillar'. There is some classic crack climbing to be offered in this area of the Frog Buttress.

On the L side of the main cliff line is a striking orange and white pillar. This route goes up the far L side of it. Go up the body crack while practising your acceptance speech for the "Thrutch Masters" hall of fame.

Very, very classy climbing. Start up the pillar in between EG and Jockette. Go past 2 bolts, then veer slightly L to the top of the pillar. Excellent wires keep things sane. Rap chains can be found at the tree.

Really good, but one hell of a mission to find. The best way to get there is to rap in, although it can be quite hard to find. Short of that, blast up the vertical jungle in between Jockette and GATG for about 20m. Be sure to take your chainsaw and Agent Orange. From here, climb the beautiful crack that splits the orange face. Pass the tiny roof and follow the crack L to the top. A great little climb.

Not as good as RA, but definitely worth a go if you went to the hassle of getting up there. Start next to RA. On the R you will see a steep groove and arete. Blast up this on average protection to the top. A very airy finish awaits.

Very good climbing up the wall L of DW. Unfortunately this is also the home of numerous wasp nest, so check up high before you start. Wander up about 6m L of DW to an obvious crack. From here, clip the bolt, step out R on quite small holds and motor up the face. A small rest can be found at the piton. RPs will come in handy. It is possible to escape into DW near the top if you find wasps, or if things just get too insane!

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you need to use any of it.

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determinations and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

The person who bolted this climb was clearly suffering from this syndrome when considering this pile of mank as a route. Contrived and finger shredding. Not a great route at all, but someone saw a blank wall and had to bolt the crap out of it. 3 bolts to the manky ledge....2 good moves! Rap as for BB.

Very nice. Up the inital crack systems to a ledge at 15m. Place a high runner in the back of the cave, then bridge airily out to the top. Natural anchors. The rap anchors for IM are over the pillar to your R, and very easy to get to.

The only way to go. Start up the corner of Illusion. Just as you start getting into the off-width/bodycrack, step L around a nose with a horizontal break in it. From there, finish as for BB. Watch out for rope drag, twin ropes could be useful.

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to 4.0 (BD) are essential if you don't like run outs!

The original toe destroyer! Bridge and chimney up the thin twi crack system to a stance at 1/3rd height. From there, jam like crazy to a weird grunty move getting round a bottleneck. Flop onto the ledge, suck in lots of air and continue motoring up the corner system above like a crazed madman on speed. Easily to the top. Rap off trees to get back to the chains of IM.

This climb has hosted a wasp nest for the last 5 years in a flake just around the R arete about 2m above the start. They are not little ants and as one stupid author found out, can't be tapped out of the flake that they are hiding in! From the ledge above the bottleneck, step R and up the arete for about 5m. Continue a little more R until you wind up in a crack. Follow this to the top. Great fun, excellent moves, super exposure...feisty wasps!

Very bold climbing up a line with good small wires for protection. Start as for the NP Variant finish, but go up the blunt L arete, rather than going all the way out to the R arete. Levitate, wobble and pray your way up this to the top. The difficulties ease substantially at the end.

More scary than 15 horror films rolled into one. Bridge up the gap to a bolt. Wobble and crimp your way to a pocket (#3 RP needed). Up past a second bolt to a stance on the L arete. Follow the line of very shallow seams and cracks (yes, the gear is crap and the flakes brittle), to where the line merges with the original. Extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim Carrigan.

Ballsy! A direct start for the variant finish of NP (can anyone else spell contrived?). Start up DO for about 8m until it is possible to step L on micro holds out to the arete. From here, excellent positions and movement are encountered as you climb up past 2 bolts. Continue to the variant finish of NP (remember the wasps!).

Really good climbing that deserves to be done more often! Climb the tricky crack system to where it widens for a metre at about 1/2 height. Whack in a big cam and climb the tricky constricting bottleneck (crux) to a good jam and stance. Whimper for joy and continue easily to a big ledge. Finish here or, for full value, do the direct finish! Rap as for NP.

The only way to go. Continue up the brilliant hand crack flake above to the top. This was originally thought to be a separate route, started off the ledge. It is however a far better variant finish to DO, and a contender for one of the better low grade cracks on the cliff.

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the horrible tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flairs a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Grunt and flail up this pukefest until you come to a stance at 2/3 height. Sweat and vomit and now you will never do this route again, then continue easily to the top.

A crappy little climb. Start on the R side of the pillar. Go up the micro seam 2m L of the arete, stepping up and around L to a stance, and a now completely pointless 1st bolt at knee height. Finish easily.