when i press the button of my ls live v2, the disk doesnt spin up and neither fanlink-acct led is solid green, the power led is flashing fast for about 15 secs then i hear a very weak 3 beeps like lacking power and it shuts down all lights (disk and fan never started)

i was moving the linkstation while connected through serial cable, the cable broke and the damn thing shuted off inmedeatly

that itself won`t be armageddon but i don`t know what can be damaged when the serial cable gets damaged. i only know that a flakey cable can cause transfers of many strange chars...either to the putty/minicom/hypterterminal or to the linkstation.

in your position i would open the box and look directly at the serial port .....if you are lucky the problem is visible (shortened somehow?)

I forgot to mention it does not emit the initial beeps, just all silent

i already opened it and there's nothing visible that could call my attention,i did not mentioned before, the unit was self checking for disk errors with utilitysmartctl -l selftest /dev/sda and it was running armel debian + 2.6.25-rc5 kernel + 2008-02-18 micro_evtdi dont know if this is relevant

... the power led is flashing fast for about 15 secs then i hear a very weak 3 beeps like lacking power and it shuts down all lights (disk and fan never started)

i was moving the linkstation while connected through serial cable, the cable broke and the damn thing shuted off inmedeatly

what can it be?

The weak/muted beeps certainly sound like low voltage problem or a short...

So you have a serial port header attached... any chance that some tiny fragment of something (either from when the cable broke or something 'extra floating around' from when you soldered your header) is on the circuit board? if it is the LSProV2, then it has the connector for the daughterboard in the front. Is there anything errant (solder flecks?) on either side of the connector?

Are the soldering points good? could there be short there somehow?

Any chance something metallic fell in the PSU section and is causing a short there?

One very good thing about the LS PRO v2 is the ease of taking it apart - easier than the v1.

one thing is after turning it on, i puted my hear in the case and i noticed it doesnt shut down at all, just keeps beeping all the time but so low i didnt heard it before

i didnt soldered in serial i used presured wires to have console acces becouse i was afraid of burning something and dont know how to solder, and i dont see nothing wrong externaly not in board or power suply i rebuilt serial cable and i see nothing in console, i tried all possible combinations to make sure there was no mistake and never got a word again from the linkstation

3. If you are going to toss it out w/ the garbage, I would have to beg a chance to recover it w/ JTAG. I find it doubtful, but I would be willing to try. Are you in EU or in North America?

===========

4. Clarification: We may have a UBoot w/ Netconsole in the future for LS Arm devices. If it is a serial problem (doesn't sound for sure that it is) then JTAG would be a way to get such a new UBoot into ROM. Then one would still have connectivity w/ it before the boot process... This is a long-shot, but...

5. (Shoot, this list is getting too long...) If you used 'pressured wires' as you say, have you tried just removing them? It sure does sound like a short or a PSU problem.

goauld, ramuk had a similar thing happen - not sure by any stretch that it was exactly the same thing, but I remember him mentioning a "mishap" with serial connection and "blowing a fuse" on his kuropro (board is very similar to lsprov2)

the unit did not fall and neither want to toss it with the garbage, i contacted seller asking him for where i have to send it for repair but im not sure the shiping costs will worth sending it because i bought it through ebay from an american ebay seller and im from spain and transport of the item going there and back could result in 90€ and this upset me because the unit costed 120€ 500GB disk included (+shipping + western union fees which was what really increased the price), i also saw a linkstation power suply unit in a web page for 20€+10€ handling+10 shipping+5 taxes (i really hate to pay +100% of the price just in fees and shipping, its not fair) and see it a little expensive and it would be a $hi& if i buy it replace it and results in linkstation not working.

ill wait for an answer of the guy and think what i do next,and about sending it to you to use a jtag, i asume its for keeping it to yourself for testing either fixed or not or would you send it back?

one thing i know for sure, i will think twice before purchasing anything else on internetthanks for support

Do you have the V2 LSPRO with the daughterboard, or the V1 without the daughterboard? Also did you establish serial access by soldering in a pin header, or by constructing one of those friction-fit connectors?

The serial access via the entry in the base is well protected. Even shorting the supply rails is not terminal as there is some protection offered on the board. You would be very un-lucky (but not un-known) for a permanent short to occur within the unit from a blown on-board fuse link. This should be easily fixed.

The LSPro/Live V2 daughterboard appears to have similarly laid out fuses near the power supply plug.

I tested this by bridging across the fuse with a hemostat, but a pair of small pliers or such would work too. I ended up bridging this with solder initially, (which I am NOT reccomending that anyone else actually do)

Do you have the V2 LSPRO with the daughterboard, or the V1 without the daughterboard? Also did you establish serial access by soldering in a pin header, or by constructing one of those friction-fit connectors?

i have ls live v2 with daughterboard and used initially a friction fit connector but that didnt worked so i pluged the wires directly into the holes all around and tight, then i used squared papers in the hole to make pressure and make sure nothing contacted the metal of the case, attached to this 8 centimeter wires was the serial cable and was there where it broke and suddently shut down, when i opened the linkstation the wires connected to the board was tightly attached and in the same place.

i dont see any blown fuse on those pictures can u tell me where? maybe mine has blown somehing in the same place (i watched carefully everything more than once but i have no idea about internal electronics)

well, the fuses apparently don't necessarily change color when blown, so it is hard to tell for sure... but they are located on the daughterboard, near the power button. They are small, black rectangular and have a 63 on them. and the word FUSE1 or FUSE2 is clearly marked in white on the printed circuit board. I guess you read ramuk's comments/responses above already...

just one minute ago finally i located fuse 1 and fuse 2, there looked like in perfect condition and with a 63 printed on them, ramuk used a hemostats to bridge them so i did the same but with a small sccisors from an swiss army knife, i heard a powerfull beep and music as i didnt heard in several days and the disk start rotating at full speed and maybe the fan too.

i turned it off inmediatly because i dont want to make more mistakes, this is a hell of a coincidence but i had hope on it.

i have to thank you all for your support specially davy_gravity and ramuk thanks

i have to ask for one last thing, what i do with that fuse? i need to bridge it somehow but ramuk you dont recommend me soldering it ?

well, I think that ramuk may have bridged the burnt out one w/ solder ... so I'm not sure, but he may have removed it w/ a soldering iron, and then bridged the gap w/ solder... but again, we are not officially advising anyone to do such a thing... one must be very careful w/ printed circuit boards... and around voltage... I guess the standard disclaimer applies here... whatever one does in such a situation, one does at their own risk...

(bridging a fuse in effect means that current can pass, but the "safety net" that a fuse provides is then eliminated, and any bad current surges could fry your board...)

By the way, Was it FUSE1 or FUSE2 that was burnt? that would be good for the community to know.

Also, if you remove the fuse, could you please tell us if there are any markings on the back side?

We talked in the IRC yesterday, trying to find out where we could find an exact replacement (as this would be the safest way to get operation back on such a shorted-out/fuse-blown unit), but we have not found the exact match (yet).

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