The Zambezi River’s beauty attracts visitors from all over the world, providing breathtaking wildlife viewing, water sports and adventure. Running through six countries on its way to the Indian Ocean, the Zambezi is Africa’s fourth largest River system, after the Nile, Zaire and Niger Rivers.

The length of the Zambezi River is less developed with settlements, in comparison to other major African rivers. Many stretches of the River also enjoy ‘protected’ status which allows for many populations of animal and bird to flourish as they should, and have always done. The sheer power of this mighty river has also carved out the spectacular Victoria Falls and the winding Batoka Gorge.

The Great Journey of the Zambezi

Running for a length of 2700kms, the Zambezi River begins it’s journey as a little spring in the corner of north-west Zambia. It bubbles up very close to the border where Zambia, Angola and Zaire meet. Along the way lie two major catchment areas, namely Lake Kariba (between Zimbabwe & Zambia) and Cabora Bassa Dam in Mozambique.

The Zambezi then enters Angola for about 230kms, where it accumulates the bulk of its headwater drainage, and re-enters Zambia again at Cholwezi rapids, flowing due south but substantially enlarged by the entry of various tributaries.

This upper part of the river is thinly populated by pastoralists, farmers and fishermen and although wildlife is sparse it is remarkably free of pollution. This is also the scene of the remarkable Ku-omboka Ceremony where thousands of inhabitants move annually to higher ground as the Zambezi floods into the low lying plains. It passes through the flat sandy country of the Western Province, then traverses the broad, annually flooding Barotse Plains, where much of the water is lost to evaporation, then over more rocky country where it’s tranquil course is interrupted by the Ngonye falls and rapids.

As the River turns to an easterly direction it forms the border between Zambia and Namibia and eventually joins up with the Chobe River in the Caprivi Swamps, briefly forming a border with Botswana. For the next 500kms it serves as the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe thundering over Victoria Falls and through the narrow, steadily deepening Batoka Gorge, providing a fantastic playground for white water rafting, kayaking, river boarding and jet boating. From here the steep sides of the gorge eventually flatten out at the broad Gwembe Valley.

The Zambezi then flows into Lake Kariba for 281kms – it’s width at one point being 40kms. From the dam wall the river travels due north, heading east again at Chirundu. Here it is flanked by the Lower Zambezi National Park on the Zambian side and Mana Pools National Park on the Zimbabwean side. This middle zone supports one of Africa’s most important wilderness areas, and is where the Lower Zambezi Lodge has the privilege of looking out over.

After the Luangwa confluence, a much larger Zambezi flows into Mozambique, into the Cabora Bassa Dam, and then out towards the Indian Ocean, having provided power, food, pleasure and transport for many and a home for untold numbers of wildlife along it’s journey.

A sunset cruise on the Lower Zambezi is a highlight on any trip to this region. Not only does the expansive river offer a welcome coolness from the heat on land, but the islets and sandbanks throughout the waterways are teeming with wildlife. The setting of fresh water, muddy banks and greenery also make for capturing gorgeous photographs of birds, animals and the landscape in its’ entirety.

On my recent trip to the lodge I was delighted to see an abundance of hippo, elephant with calves, croc, heron, baboon, warthog, fish eagle and kingfisher, as well as the breathtaking escarpment set against a massive setting sun in fiery gold, orange and red hues. On our sunset cruise we passed local fishermen, fishing villages, lodges and fellow visitors & guides who all offered cheery greetings from across the water. The cool spray off the river and the arrival of early evening provides welcome and refreshing coolness for both man and creature.

Returning back to the lodge after sunset, we are welcomed by a campfire and a refreshing beverage or two.At 7.30pm a delicious dinner is served overlooking the gently lapping river. Hippo start to frolic as the light fades and a male lion’s powerful call can be heard from across the other side of the river, in Zimbabwe. The perfect ending to a memorable day on the Zambezi.

If you are an early riser, you can really take advantage of the welcome coolness of the Lower Zambezi at dawn. Around 5.30am the majestic call of the kingfisher can be heard across the vastness of the river. Boisterous baboons can be heard on the Zimbabwean side, and hippos offer the occasional grunt, unwinding after the nights activities. The sky graduates from a hazy gold to pastel blue and the water starts to glisten in ripples, as fishermen and visitors head upstream for the promises of the new day.

After a welcome cup of coffee or tea, and a snack, its time to hop into the vehicle for an early morning game drive in the local GMA (game management area) or Lower Zambezi National Park. The wildlife is often most active in the cooler morning hours of the hotter months, where day temps can hit 40 degrees!

Expect to see an abundance of impala and elephant as well as nimble waterbuck, warthog, wildebeest, crocodile, zebra, lion and more. I also saw plenty of carmine bee eater, varieties of hornbill, yellow billed egret, guinea fowl and a couple of fish eagle perched high on bare and exposed tree branches. What I was most struck by was the relaxed nature of the wildlife on the Lower Zambezi, especially the lion and elephant. This made it a pleasure to capture beautiful photographs and take in the experience fully, without feeling like an intruder.

By 9am the heat is building rapidly, and the most natural thing to do is head back to the welcoming shade at camp, and enjoy a late and relaxing breakfast overlooking the river.