Hey all, Sony is in full swing with revision after revision change of the Six-Axis and now DualShock 3 controllers, seems like every time I open one up it's different. I'm up to 18 revisions so far, including the DualShock 3 controllers (there are at present 12 versions of them now) and on and on it goes..

Here are some of the newer versions boards. The main differences in these newer controllers are the Battery and the Analog Sticks, the boards are completely revamped as well, but you'll notice the Battery and/or POT leads right off, plus the shell of the controller doesn't seem to be the transparent 'smoke' color anymore but a more opaque Black color.

The first version of battery was the LIP1359 (w/sticker) then came the MK11-2902. While the newer MK11 is smaller in size, it's still the same 3.7v 610mAh rating. It also uses a bracket to fit where the slightly larger LIP1359 went. These batteries can be interchanged between the 6A (Six-Axis) and DS3 (DualShock 3) controller versions if need be and I've seen both battery versions in the later versions as well. There is also an MK11-3020 570mAh (Typ610mAh) that turned up later on, and seems to be the same as the other MK11, and now the LIP1359 (w/o sticker) seems to be the more frequently used one in the latest controllers, but again they are all interchangeable and one is really no different than the other, you just need to have the bracket for the MK11 batteries so they fit properly is all, but even that's really optional in a pinch.

The big surprise is the Analog Sticks in these newer versions, 4 legs on the POTs, needless to say that sparked some interest. So I desoldered one, popped it off and looky here...

..gone are the days of the familiar 3 legged POT and in comes these little gems. Magnetic and nothing to get all dirty and scratchy since there's no Wiper anymore, pretty nice idea, though a bit high tech for something that has no user serviceable battery and will in most cases be replaced instead of repaired if it were to die or break, still really kool though. These are Hall Sensors, and there are now 2 versions of these in the DualShock 3 version controllers, though the older style ones aren't used anymore as they seem too have a flaw with them, in that the Rivets that hold the leads onto the small circuit board can cause an intermittent connection over time and this will cause a direction or two to stop working, the newer ones are designed a bit better and I don't see them having this issue. How these things work is they have a Current run thru them and depending on where the Magnet is at (the part on the stick) it changes the flow of the Current in this Sensor. This then goes to an Op-Amp setup as a Current-to-Voltage converter and when all is said and done they basically work exactly the same way as a POT setup as a voltage divider, the MCU in the controller doesn't know the difference. This was done years back in the Saturn 3D controller as well as the Dreamcast controllers.

MSU_V2 2.12 (Six-Axis) There is also an MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) BOTTOM - TOP

Here the DualShock 3 controller has been updated slightly. The main difference is the way the daughter board connects to the main board. They've done away with the connector completely now and it's just a pressure fit connection. This makes for taking the thing apart much easier as the whole thing doesn't have to be torn down now to unplug the daughter board. The brace is white in this version of controller also, where it's black in the older version. The TP spots are also different on this version of board compared to the older DS3 version.

MSU_V3.5X 1.12 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_V3.5X 1.14Bottom - Top

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New Daughter Board Connection

NOTE: If you take any controller version apart that has this type of Daughter board connection (and all versions from here on do) make sure that small Black Foam piece doesn't get lost. If it's not in there the Daughter board isn't going to make a good connection against the controller board when it's all put back together and the buttons will not work.

Well here we go with the latest version of the DS3 and all of it's revised goodness. The board version number is below, but you can tell if ya have this one before even opening the controller as they have redone the bottom half of the shell and made it all once piece instead of having the small filler pieces between L1/R1 and L2/R2 like every version before it.

This doesn't necessarily mean if it has that bottom half it's this exact version, newer versions may also use this redesigned shell, but it's a pretty quick way to tell ya don't have one of the older DS3 versions without having to open the controller up.

Inside the controller they've done away with the metal brackets that hold the Rumble motors and made the Daughter board brace hold them, PS2 controller style. The Daughter board still uses the same type of pressure fit connection as the V3.5X has, as well as the same Daughter board.

MSU_VX3_0.07 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX3_0.08 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP and an MSU_VX3_0.11 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP

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The Triggers pivot pin has now been made from plastic instead of having a metal pin, this was most likely done to reduce costs, and it makes the older L2/R2 incompatible with the newer design, so if ya ever need to replace them for any reason on this version of controller they'll have to be this newer style.

And yet another revision change, this time around has some more changes as well, similar to when they went to the VX3 versions above, but this is the VX4.

The Daughter board has been updated slightly, though it works the same way as before. The Daughter board brace is slightly revised also and holds the Rumble motors a bit differently, as well as clips into the controller shell now.

One of the slight changes is the D-pad, instead of the older 2 piece design shown on the left, it's now just the once piece shown on the right.

The major change is the Left Stick has been mounted 180 degrees from previous board versions, which makes the board slightly smaller.

MSU_VX4_0.09 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX4_0.10 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP

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I'd really like too have 1/10th of the money Sony is dumping into all of these revision changes when almost none of them are any improvement or even necessary in the least.

Here is the latest VX5 version board. Just minor changes since the VX4, mainly the Battery, smaller Bluetooth board and a few other ICs.

MSU_VX5_0.05 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX5_0.06 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP

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The Battery has been changed to do away with the plastic spacers needed. It's now an LIP1472, but everything else is the same as the LIP1359 (see above posts) and it can be swapped for any of the other battery versions or vice-versa with the correct spacers.

The Daughter Board has been slightly updated, but still works the same as the others do, and the rubber pieces are now clear instead of white.

Introducing the Asuka. (Special Thanks to odingalt for donating this controller)

Sony has either decided to go as cheap as possible with these controllers now, or some 3rd party manufacturer has access to the good MCU used in them.

The 4 leg Hall Sensor style Sticks are gone, back are the old 10k POT style, but still not the 'typical' size, so replacing them is again a hassle.

The Daughter Board hasn't changed any, aside form looking like it was cheaper to make, but that goes along with pretty much everything about the controller. Even the shell feels a little different and the white color doesn't match the older ones. This thing was designed from the point A to point B standpoint, nice and simple and done, it just doesn't seem to be built with the same quality as any of the earlier versions.

For the most part, nothing has really changed at all. It still uses the same COM line configuration as all of the other versions, thus it works the same way, so please no "will this or that modchip still work on it" questions, that was just answered.

ASUKA REV: 1.06

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Here is Sony's latest version, the MSU_VX6, where they have decided on going back to the older 3 leg Analog POT style Sticks. (Special Thanks to KingMike_OS for donating this controller)

Once I get to do some more testing I'll update the TP spots section of this thread with this latest version, though it hasn't really changed too much overall from the looks of it, aside from the new Sticks and the TP numbering is different. I'll know more once I get the scope on it and see what's the same or has been changed from other versions.

Here are the list of TP spots on the PS3 controllers, the most useful ones anyway, for anyone that would want to make up an Arcade Stick, add an extra button or something similar.

Of the 17 versions of these controllers, that I know of, there are (so far anyway) 7 different TP layouts for them. These are a general pic of the different layouts, what controller version they're on and what they do.

NOTE:All of the TP spots are NOT shown in these pics, this is just for reference so you can tell which controller you have at a glance and what TP spots are what on that version of controller.

These are for the USB Connector and they are the same on all versions of board, except the Asuka.

TP1 - 5vTP2 - D-TP3 - D+TP4 - GroundGND - Ground

This is for the older Six-Axis controllers.

Any of the MSUPP 4.0 versions that have the 3 legged POTs. The TP spots may or may not be tinned with solder also.

There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.

On the latest version of DS3 controllers there isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are.

MSU_VX3

The TP spots for the buttons have all been removed from this board version, so that means hitting a Via to attach wires, and they're about 1/3 the size of the ones in a 360 controller, so even if you're pretty good at landing a wire on those you'll have to be a a lot more careful scraping down and landing one on these things.

Right now this is probably the best spots to hit for an Arcade Stick or duplicate buttons, and until I use this board for something they should suffice, so this part here may be updated after I've done some more work on the board wiring it up to something and seeing which methods and spots work best. They were nice enough to leave the COM1 and COM2 TP spots behind, though that hardly makes it any easier if you were making an Arcade Stick from this version of board and it'll make building a PS360 with this version of board a little more fun as well.

There isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are, and like all of the other versions of controller the USB TP spots are still the same.

TP11 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)

TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)TP14 - Battery +

TP17 - COM1TP18 - COM2

RST is the Reset or 'off' button on the bottom of the controller that pretty much no one uses I'd imagine. The other side of it is Ground and any spot will work if you want to duplicate that button for any reason.

Again there is no TP spot for the COM3 line and the best place to use is one of the solder joints for the L3/R3 buttons, or you can hit a Via for it if you like.

For any Arcade Stick builders using this board version, soldering to the Vias on these controllers isn't exactly the easiest thing to do, flipping the board over and using the contacts for the Daughter board is really the best option.

The black carbon material needs to be removed if these spots are to be used, and this can be done with an X-acto knife or some fine sandpaper, just be careful and when you get to the shiny copper, STOP, you're done. Tin it up with some solder and there are your spots to use. Try and use a 30awg wire, or 28awg at the largest, and make sure to secure the wiring with some hot glue after you make the connection, but don't glue over the solder joint you just made, secure the wire to the board back from the solder joint, in case you ever have to get to it again for any reason.

The Pull-Up Resistors (7.5k) also need to be put back in the circuit as they're built into the Daughter board and when it's removed they're not, and the controller will act up on you if these are not in circuit, why Sony decided to do this back with the PS2 controllers and carry it over to the PS3 is beyond me, it's really lame. There needs to be 2 of these Pull-Up Resistors installed, one goes from V to COM1, the other goes from V to COM2. If you don't have any 7.5k Resistors you can use anything from 6.8k to 10k really, but they do need to be installed since the Daughter board is removed, and all of the PS3 controllers are setup this way and need those Pull-Ups if the Daughter board is removed.

MSU_VX4

Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 above, just a little different layout is all.

TP11 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)

TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)TP14 - Battery +

TP17 - COM1TP18 - COM2

MSU_VX5

Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 and VX4 above, again just a little different layout.

TP8 - Rumble +

TP10 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)

TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)TP14 - Battery +

TP17 - COM1TP18 - COM2

ASUKA REV: 1.06

As with earlier versions, there are no useful TP spots for any of the buttons, and just about every useful Via on the bottom side of the board is gone from this controller as well, so you'll be going top side for extra buttons on this one.

First off, thanks so much for all your work on these controller layouts RDC - they've been extremely useful.

I've run into an issue that's fairly confusing to me, and was wondering if you might have any thoughts on it. A friend and I are working on a project with PS3 controllers, and I'll apologize in advance that there may be some limited info but I'll do my best to explain everything as thoroughly as I can. And the reasoning behind our project may not make much sense, so I apologize for that.

We are essentially just trying to mimic the actions of one controller to multiple other controllers. The only buttons we care about are the PS Home, /\, O, X, [], and the D-Pad. We've soldered wires to the TP's of those buttons & their commons on 2 controllers. One controller is MSU_V2.5 (1.05), the other is MSU_PP4.0. When the boards themselves are plugged into a PS3 the only button we can get to work by touching the corresponding wires together is the PS Home button. We assume this is because it has it's own common.

We found that if we plug the daughter board in, then all of the buttons work by touching our corresponding wires together. Why must the daughter board be plugged in? We've even tried removing the daughter board connector, tracing where each of the leads from the buttons went to each pad. Soldering directly to the pads and touching the wires together doesn't work either. What is in the daughter board that's filled with magical pixie dust? It seems obvious it's completing the connection, we just aren't seeing what's on it that's different from completing the circuit with our wires. Is there resistance in it that is needed?

Ideally we would love to find a work around for getting these buttons to work without the daughter board plugged in. But if we have to deal with the daughter board we could find a way to manage, it just makes the project a bit more difficult.

The Daughter board doesn't have any pixie dust, it just has Pull Up Resistors built into it. It's some other lame thing that Sony had to do for some unexplained reason.

Get ya a couple (2 for each controller) of anything from 6.8k to 10k Resistors and install them from the PS Common line to the COM1 and COM2 lines, so the PS Common line is connected to COM1 and COM2 thru a Resistor. This will put the Pull Up Resistors in place like the Daughter board has and it'll work without it needing to be plugged in.

On the PP4.0 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP10 and TP17, then another one from TP10 to TP18.

On the V2.5 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP62 and TP25, then another one from TP62 to TP26.

Alternately, but a little more lame, you can just leave the Daughter board plugged in to the controller if ya want. It doesn't have to be mounted to the brace that holds it or anything, so ya can fold it up some if it's a space issue.

Also, if you're trying to do something like use the PS3 controller as your 'base' controller and wire up some other controller, as to use it's buttons instead, take caution in to how the other controller is laid out. The PS3 controllers have a 3 Common Line setup and most other controllers you'll run across are Common Ground or Common Line. Wiring up the PS3 controller to a different button layout on anther controller will cause issues there as you'll be connecting lines on the PS3 controller thru the other controller that shouldn't be.

The Daughter board doesn't have any pixie dust, it just has Pull Up Resistors built into it. It's some other lame thing that Sony had to do for some unexplained reason.

Get ya a couple (2 for each controller) of anything from 6.8k to 10k Resistors and install them from the PS Common line to the COM1 and COM2 lines, so the PS Common line is connected to COM1 and COM 2 thru a Resistor. This will put the Pull Up Resistors in place like the Daughter board has and it'll work without it needing to be plugged in.

On the PP4.0 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP10 and TP17, then another one from TP10 to TP18.

On the V2.5 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP62 and TP25, then another one from TP62 to TP26.

We kind of thought about it having resistance at first, but we must not have tested it in the wrong spots because we could never find any. And we tried using a couple resistors, but not set up the way you suggested, and no where near the amount you've stated.

In any case, we've got the controller setup the way you suggested in a breadboard and it's working perfectly w/o the daughter board! Thank you!

QUOTE(RDC @ Feb 3 2009, 06:50 PM)

Also, if you're trying to do something like use the PS3 controller as your 'base' controller and wire up some other controller, as to use it's buttons instead, take caution in to how the other controller is laid out. The PS3 controllers have a 3 Common Line setup and most other controllers you'll run across are Common Ground or Common Line. Wiring up the PS3 controller to a different button layout on anther controller will cause issues there as you'll be connecting lines on the PS3 controller thru the other controller that shouldn't be.

We are actually essentially just wiring it up to "transfer" the button presses from one PS3 controller to another PS3 controller. We weren't able to get both controllers to take the inputs from the buttons consistently in our last test yesterday however. Hopefully today with this new setup we can get them to register button presses exactly the same on a consistent basis. I will keep you posted! And again, thanks a bunch!

Technically all of the buttons on the PS3 controllers have Resistance, they're all Analog (Pressure Sensitive) so they have to be setup that way, but it's the Pull Up Resistors that are built into the Daughter board that are needed for it to at the very least function.

Wow amazing work! I'm impressed! Btw, how would you go about finding what each point does? Poking with a multimeter?

Thanks. Your eyes are about the only thing ya really need, and a decent magnifying glass doesn't hurt at all, though to do it properly you'll need a multimeter to make sure it's the same spot from one end to the other and that ya didn't get lost along the way.

Sorry for double posting but I can't edit my post.. I'd just like to ask another question if you don't mind I looked at my sixaxis controller today earlier and all I'm seeing is a jumble of traces and stuff, haha. Any tips on how I'd go about finding points just with my eyes?