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Carbs question

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I m looking at the

Message 1 of 5
, May 12, 2013

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I'm looking at the haynes manual, and appart from the vaccuum take off o-rings I sen no other. The kit I have received contains a LOT of them.

The floats have been replaced last year, so I guess they came with new o-rings and wont replace these.

One more question: The haynes manual talks about removing the main jet and needle. Can I safely remove them ? I figure they are not "adjustable".

It also talks about the pilot jet, and the pilot jet screw o-ring and spring. Those are ajustable ? I simply have to notice their position before removing them ???

I don't want the bike not to start when I put back the carbs.

Talking about fitting the carbs back:

Is there a way to ease the carb boots on the engine intake ? It was very hard to remove and some of the the rubber boots are a bit damaged... not much, but bits of rubber were "peeled" when I removed them. Can I spray silicon lube inside the boots before putting them back ?

Thanks

Jack Byers

Hey Clep, I ve had very good luck re-fitting rubber boots, etc. with (there are a few of us who don t like the stuff) WD-40. Mainly because it evaporates when

Message 2 of 5
, May 13, 2013

Hey Clep,

I've had very good luck re-fitting rubber boots, etc. with (there are a few of us who don't like the stuff) WD-40. Mainly because it evaporates when it dries. I've installed heavy, reinforced hydraulic lines on to reluctant fittings with "STP" lube. It too will ultimately dry for a good tight fitting. Good luck ,Bud. I hope it works for you.

Kindest regards,

Poppa Jack = Buena Park, Ca.

On May 12, 2013, at 6:05 PM, clepeterd wrote:

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I'm looking at the haynes manual, and appart from the vaccuum take off o-rings I sen no other. The kit I have received contains a LOT of them.

The floats have been replaced last year, so I guess they came with new o-rings and wont replace these.

One more question: The haynes manual talks about removing the main jet and needle. Can I safely remove them ? I figure they are not "adjustable".

It also talks about the pilot jet, and the pilot jet screw o-ring and spring. Those are ajustable ? I simply have to notice their position before removing them ???

I don't want the bike not to start when I put back the carbs.

Talking about fitting the carbs back:

Is there a way to ease the carb boots on the engine intake ? It was very hard to remove and some of the the rubber boots are a bit damaged... not much, but bits of rubber were "peeled" when I removed them. Can I spray silicon lube inside the boots before putting them back ?

Thanks

Jason Hart

Hello. I ve done my carbs and they now work very well. You need to remove all the jets so that you can clean them as well as the orifice with carb cleaner. Use

Message 3 of 5
, May 13, 2013

Hello.

I've done my carbs and they now work very well.

You need to remove all the jets so that you can clean them as well as the orifice with carb cleaner. Use compressed air to blow everything though. Do this over an oil pan to collect all the small washers and springs that can get blown off the carbs!

Yes there are a number of O rings but generally they don't need changing. If you have them; then you may as well as well use them. Each pilot jet screw has a very tiny O ring as well as a small spring and washer (they are very easy to lose when cleaning the carbs). Make sure you put them back properly! O ring , washer and spring (washer between the O ring and spring). Turn the pilot screw down until it just seats - don't tighten! Back out 1and 3/4 turns. The bike will start. Let the bike reach operating temperature. Fine tune each cylinder after synchronization of carbs for optimum RPM as you unscrew the pilot jet (optimum will be close to 2 turns out) as below. You will need to run the bike with the tank off and hooked up to the carbs so you can
get at the set screws to do the final adjustments

Each carb will not be set exactly
the same for maximum performance and fuel economy. Start with an
otherwise tuned engine and before setting air screw synchronize the
carbs! You will find that synchronizing will smooth out the motor and increase RPM as will each fine tuning of every carb.
You can keep the synchronize tool (morgan carbtuner is a good one) on
as you adjust if you like but not needed... then do each carb separately
from the rough 1 & 3/4 turns out - optimize for maximum RPM with a 1/4 hex
gear drive (motion pro has a good one) .. always tune each carb at
between 950 and 1000 RPM for best results. If set up right this should
be no issue. Each time you do one carb you will need to lower the idle
RPM
before moving to the next one. Although the bike will run at one
setting for all carbs this is not optimal as each carb will be slightly
different as each cylinder from manufacturing variations as well
as normal wear. (in fact the shop manual specs show that the middle
cylinder on the triple is different already). The fact that each
cylinder is pulling a slightly different vacuum through the carbs and
needs to be adjusted by synchronizing the carbs is another proof of
these slight differences. Do this with clean carbs and fuel tank and throttle response as well as fuel economy will improve.

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I'm looking at the haynes manual, and appart from the vaccuum take off o-rings I sen no other. The kit I have received contains a LOT of them.

The floats have been replaced last year, so I guess they came with new o-rings and wont replace these.

One more question: The haynes manual talks about removing the main jet and needle. Can I safely remove them ? I figure they are not "adjustable".

It also talks about the pilot jet, and the pilot jet screw o-ring and spring. Those are ajustable ? I simply have to notice their position before removing them ???

I don't want the bike not to start when I put back the carbs.

Talking about fitting the carbs back:

Is there a way to ease the carb boots on the engine intake ? It was very hard to remove and some of the the rubber boots are a bit damaged... not much, but bits of rubber were "peeled" when I removed them. Can I spray silicon lube inside the boots before putting them back ?

Thanks

Jason Hart

I used some silicon grease which also worked ... very important that the boots are properly installed between carbs and engine ... no air leaks! If not, you

Message 4 of 5
, May 13, 2013

I used some silicon grease which also worked ... very important that the boots are properly installed between carbs and engine ... no air leaks! If not, you will not be able to tune the carbs .. not to mention issue of dirty air entering the cylinders!

I've had very good luck re-fitting rubber boots, etc. with (there are a few of us who don't like the stuff) WD-40. Mainly because it evaporates when it dries. I've installed heavy, reinforced hydraulic lines on to reluctant fittings with "STP" lube. It too will ultimately dry for a good tight fitting. Good luck ,Bud. I hope it works for you.

Kindest regards,

Poppa Jack = Buena Park, Ca.

On May 12, 2013, at 6:05 PM, clepeterd wrote:

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I'm looking at the haynes manual, and appart from the vaccuum take off o-rings I sen no other. The kit I have received contains a LOT of them.

The floats
have been replaced last year, so I guess they came with new o-rings and wont replace these.

One more question: The haynes manual talks about removing the main jet and needle. Can I safely remove them ? I figure they are not "adjustable".

It also talks about the pilot jet, and the pilot jet screw o-ring and spring. Those are ajustable ? I simply have to notice their position before removing them ???

I don't want the bike not to start when I put back the carbs.

Talking about fitting the carbs back:

Is there a way to ease the carb boots on the engine intake ? It was very hard to remove and some of the the rubber boots are a bit damaged... not much, but bits of rubber were "peeled" when I removed them. Can I spray silicon lube inside the boots before putting them back ?

Thanks

Samuel Crider

I even ordered new intake rubbers from Triumph. After three months they look just as bad as the originals. Cracks all over the exterior. So to make a long

Message 5 of 5
, May 13, 2013

I even ordered new intake rubbers from Triumph. After three months they look just as bad as the originals. Cracks all over the exterior. So to make a long story short. They are likely in better shape than they look. Silicone spray or grease works fine. And certainly helps with the wrestling match required during installation.

I used some silicon grease which also worked ... very important that the boots are properly installed between carbs and engine ... no air leaks! If not, you will not be able to tune the carbs .. not to mention issue of dirty air entering the cylinders!

I've had very good luck re-fitting rubber boots, etc. with (there are a few of us who don't like the stuff) WD-40. Mainly because it evaporates when it dries. I've installed heavy, reinforced hydraulic lines on to reluctant fittings with "STP" lube. It too will ultimately dry for a good tight fitting. Good luck ,Bud. I hope it works for you.

Kindest regards,

Poppa Jack = Buena Park, Ca.

On May 12, 2013, at 6:05 PM, clepeterd wrote:

While the carbs are out, I want to repace all the o-rings. I ordered the float bowls gaskets, and I ordered a set of o-rings from e-bay. I'm looking at the haynes manual, and appart from the vaccuum take off o-rings I sen no other. The kit I have received contains a LOT of them.

The floats
have been replaced last year, so I guess they came with new o-rings and wont replace these.

One more question: The haynes manual talks about removing the main jet and needle. Can I safely remove them ? I figure they are not "adjustable".

It also talks about the pilot jet, and the pilot jet screw o-ring and spring. Those are ajustable ? I simply have to notice their position before removing them ???

I don't want the bike not to start when I put back the carbs.

Talking about fitting the carbs back:

Is there a way to ease the carb boots on the engine intake ? It was very hard to remove and some of the the rubber boots are a bit damaged... not much, but bits of rubber were "peeled" when I removed them. Can I spray silicon lube inside the boots before putting them back ?

Thanks

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