To everyone who has chosen to use the carter fuel pump as a replacement to the non-existant factory ones, have you had problems with realiabilty? Last December I finally figured out that the factory pump had given up, so after reading up on replacement parts I chose to go with the carter fuel pump. And since then I have gone through 3 of them, the third one having just died on me. The first pump lasted from December till about April or June, I put in the second one and it lasted all of a day or so (I installed it ran it once in the garage and it failed). I put the third one in when the second failed and it lasted till yesterday. I am getting really tired of replacing fuel pumps, I even took out the capacitor for the CB just to see if that was causing my problem but I guess it's not. I"ll try to get to checking the amps coming through the wires to make sure it's spec, but I'm at a loss as to why I can't keep a fuel pump in it. If anyone else has some ideas, I'm all ears.

I have no experience with them also..... But I am interested to find out how they failed.
Did the motor stop drawing power as in electrically failed?
Did the motor seize and burn up?
If you can determine what actually happened to the pump we may be able to determine why...
The pump is designed to flow fuel through the motor to cool and lube it.
It also has close fitting parts..SO any debris getting into the pump could lock the impellers..stopping the motor and damaging the internal wiring/brushes...
Is there a new filter attached to the pump that sealed off the pump inlet?
Can a failed pump be disassembled for close inspection...??

A few of us GL1500 riders have replaced the OEM pump with the Carter pump with great success. Three bad ones??? Something is wrong with your install.
Was it the Carter P72190? That one worked for me.
As Virgil said, , ,Give us more info about the pump problems so we might help pin-point where the hiccup is, , , ,

The "output" from the pump up to the top of the mounting bracket makes a VERY sharp turn, , and it has caused the hose to collapse and cause problems, , so make SURE the hose doesn't "kink" while making that turn. I used about 11.5" of Gates 27093 hose, rated as gasoline submersible, to make that turn and it fit nicely & tight against the inside of the bracket. MAKE SURE THE HOSE IS RATED AS GASOLINE SUBMERSIBLE or you're asking for trouble. An option to that sharp turn is putting a brass elbow to mitigate bending the hose, , that was the solution for some of the folks who made the change.

If you decide to try something different, , ,take a quick look at these options, alleged direct OEM replacement (but I have no experience with them);

Hey guys sorry for the slow response. 2 of the 3 pumps have failed in the same way. The first pump failed the way most do slowly on the way home from work one day. I fueled up on the way home that day and as I was riding the engine just steadily lost power and speed until it died. The 2nd and 3rd pumps failed quickly in a different manner. They both ran one day and not the next. When pulled from the tank and jump with 12 volts the pumps did not run, however if struck with a hammer or anything hard they would run again. It might be only one or two times and then it would stop working, hit it again and it would work. Install is straight forward, I have one piece of very stiff hose between the pump and the outlet. No evidence of collapse that I see. The screen is nice and clean as is the tank. And the pump I'm using is the 72190 carter.

I don't see a flaw in your install, , ,just hard to believe you got "bad" new pumps. I'm at a loss for suggestions, , , other than to say, , ,put a 90 degree brass elbow inline so that stiff hose has no bend, it can't hurt to try. Sounds like you did everything right, and it must be frustrating to have three pumps crap out. One of the pumps in the links I gave earlier is listed as a GL1500 fuel pump replacement that meets or exceeds OEM specs. You could give it a try, , , Good luck

Pump number 4 is in and working as it should. I replaced the in tank hose and put a brass 90 degree fitting in this time. It ran but, sounded awful. Much like my CB750 when it's down a cylinder. So I took the carbs off and checked them inside and out, nice and clean as I figured they would be. Decided to check the pilot passages since I have been working with them to lean an over rich idle. They were clean as well, and I did learn that they control air and not fuel. When I put them back I cut a grove in the head of the screw so that I can adjust them without the need for the special tool. I'm guessing that the initial 2 turns out for he pilots the manual states is too lean, that's where I had them set to when it ran so badly. I closed them down to one and three quarter turns out. Just waiting to put the carbs back on, I decided to change the remaining vacuum hoses on the intake manifolds to try to fix a idle surge too. Hoping to have it back together soon.

How much has this set you back, both in down time and monetarily?
I think it may have been more reliable, economically feasible and satisfying to just buy an OEM pump.
Here are a couple of examples. There are also new and used pumps on Ebay.
So, they are not necessarily non-existent.
Available from Amazon:

Those Carter pumps were reliable replacements but their quality and workmanship could have slipped here lately. Its a head-scratcher for sure. My pump was about $30 bucks a year ago, , ,they might be $50+ now, , , and even at the 4th pump, its cheaper than any of the "quality" ebay/OEM pumps. I hate recommending something to friends if there are problems, , , , I hope this is an "anomaly" and NOT the "norm" for the Carter pumps. The comment about "noise" concerns me too, mine is so quiet you can't EVER hear it unless you pull the seat and put your ear to the tank.

Check the fuel filter, & fuel petcock to rule them out as the cause of the poor running bike.

I may not pull wrenches for a living anymore but, back then and even now I have noticed a real slip in replacement part quality. Even OEM parts are not near the quality of years ago. A fine example is the dyna ignition for a CB750 the old ones seemed to never fail guys have run them for 10 plus years without a problem. The newer ones are lucky to get a year of operation before they fail, because of this many have gone back to points ignition to avoid problems. Anyway the pumps are still 30 dollars from Rockauto. And yes I am getting quite tired of replacing these pumps and an OEM pump have be in the future if I can't figure out what's going on. I have not heard them running when the bike runs, they are nice and quiet. I'm hoping to get things put back together this week. I want to be ready for fall riding, plus I need to move my CB750 so I can get the engine ready to come out and start the top end rebuild.

Well with pump number four in and a brass 90 degree fitting installed this time my wing is up and running again. Now I'm dealing with a new problem that has not happened before. I can hear a lean popping in the exhaust. It's running on all cylinders. It idles and revs well (still with a small surge), just not sure what suddenly caused the lean condition. Plugs were new when it was parked for 7 years and were perfect when I pulled them when I got it a year ago. I do have a small tick that's new, I'm just wondering if I have a sticky lifter. I will be working on it tomorrow, going to add a little seafoam to the oil and go for a little ride and see if the problem will correct it self.

Popping in the exhaust is not a lean condition..It's unburnt fuel igniting.Seafoam the fuel too and run it like you stole it.
Goldwings are starved for attention...they get all cranky when left in the dark.

+1 on Seafoam treatment. 1oz/gal minimum for fuel worked for me. Crankcase "cleaning" worked great for me with 1oz/qt of oil. Each tankful of gas is about 150-180 miles, so run that seafoam/oil for about 2 tankfuls before you change it. Keep doing that every 300-400 miles until you get a "golden-amber" color to the oil you change. Don't forget to change the oil filter once the crankcase oil is really clean. Just use GOOD oil (no friction modifiers) and forget the seafoam once your oil is clean.