Great Job on the webinar Ray. Next time make it longer, course I know you could go on for days. And the tape trick was good, I seem to remember that but thanks for clearing the cobwebs. Good basic concrete webinar.

1) Curing Compounds: they don't all degrade. Exp the sodium silicate snake oils. Also, my local WR Meadows rep said a big factor is 'regular construction traffic'. Still, there is no good way to test if it has dissipated across the slab.

2) How do you honor an active crack in an area where you cant go all the way to the top of the floor covering. Like down the middle of a large room >50' wide that is to receive a vinyl floor. Few concrete placements are done in a way that there aren't 'active' joints in a slab like that. I asked our tech director and his answer was "it is impossible".

2a) I'd like a little more info on the compressive strength of low compressive patching / feathering compounds and why they push up more readily. Do they just crush and not push up if they are properly watered and the slab re-equilibrates? (@28min) What products does Ray recommend under the high moisture adhesives out there? (Forbo, Gerflor, Nora all have adhesives that go over 90% rH now)

2c) @ 29:48 - where is that picture from?! I swear it is from one of our jobs. How was that repaired? An epoxy? A polyurethane? A polyurea?

For cracks I polyurea them. Or you can epoxy them, but I think filling any crack with patch is dangerous. If the concrete moves the patch blows.
For a meandering crack, I have epoxied them tight then re-cut a movement joint in a nice straight line that the flooring installer can honor through the flooring. Just an idea....

The tape trick is: as soon as the adhesive is exposed place a piece of tape over the exposed adhesive and allow the exposed adhesive to air dry for aboout 1/2 hour. If there is a drying effect the adhesive will darken in the exposed area and remain lighter in the unexposed area.

Asbestos is permeable, but it is dimensionally stable and will not decay.

To check cracks, put some Plaster-of-paris over the crack and leave for a week, then examine closely for fine cracks.

The curing compounds do degrade either by UV degradation or oxidation. But it is difficult to get out of the pores, especially if it has been applied too heavy. Cure'n'Seal is a different beast.

The RH "puck is available from Maxxon Corp. It is attached with screws.

Never said it stops, but does inhibit emissions somewhat. But no matter who says what about their product sticking to it....sure it may for a year or two. I don't trust any flooring skimcoat to stick to it forevah.