Description

This route climbs the splitter on the 3rd slab from the left. Besides a scrambling beginning, this climb is beautiful. It lends itself to perfect finger jams and stacked finger jams. WOW! I would hike to Penitentiary just for this climb.

Protection

This route shares the anchor system (slings on a flake), so bring extras just in case. It protects with small to medium gear.

A very fun climb. Looking to crack into the 5.9 trad game? This may be the one for you. The first fifteen feet is maybe a 5.9 finger that protects well with something small and then the crack gets wide and real easy to the top. I just wish it was fifty feet longer.

Lead this one today, and it protects very well. Brass nut for the initial moves, then increasingly larger cams up to a #4 DMM. Nuts do work, but because of the relatively parallel nature of the crack, cams are easier. I did use a large hex up top, so the #4 was redundant (I always try to use my trusty hexes at least once).

This is a quality splitter. Start with finger locks, working hard for good feet. Be thankful for the jugs mid route, then get ready for some jams. I found it to be just a wee bit too tight for a full fist jam, but your mileage will undoubtedly vary. Only route length keeps this from being a true classic.

I left two pieces in the bottom of the crack; one nut and #0 power cam with a draw. I left them due to a climbing accident that occured there with a buddy of mine on 05.26.06; I was unable to retrieve them at the time and would appreciate it greatly if someone finds them before I can get back, that they contact me and I'll take them out to dinner or something for their generosity. More to come on the climbing accident in the days to follow.

This is a classic whether it's short or not! Worth the dicey approach up a steep rock field (make sure you aren't coming down in the dark). The finger jambs are classic and that two handed lip in the middle feels like it's big enough for a picnic by the time you reach it. The right gear makes this route very well protected and a whole lotta fun.

Starts as a seam and opens wider in a hurry but the initial moves on the meat of the climb are stout. Difficulty varies based on finger size but since I've got fatter fingers this felt like a couple serious 5.9 moves. Those with slimmer fingers will probably feel great on the #.3 section.

Although this could be longer (what couldn't) this climb deserves 4 stars in my book! Probably the most quintessential 9- I have ever found! Small nuts are beneficial for getting the courage to lift off the deck, and a .3 will give you what you need for the crux. Not a terrible one for breaking into the 9 grade on trad, much cleaner than the lines you will find on bumble bee wall.

I lost a black diamond nut in the finger crack portion, my partner and I both tried for quite a while to get it out, It would move around a bit but we just couldn't find a way to get it out. If anyone gets it out, it's yours. I also noticed there's a link cam jammed deep inside the crack right where it starts to open up to hands. Someone had cut the sling off it. Good climb, I would say feet are tricky down low.