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Wednesday, October 17, 2007

November GQ

I'm really happy that I was able to work Shannon Hill (a multi-post Sartorialist Alum) into the November GQ. He gives a few tips on how a gentleman that is not "in the business" of fashion can help create his own personal style.

Boyer rocks and so does Hill. I love the ticket pocket detail on a suit and alwys have mine made with one. He looks very sharp and adds vitality to a city that often times has too many dullards walking about.

tim said ... (10:12 AM) :

this man is *perfectly* appointed - from his suit to his shoes to his briefcase to his expertly knotted tie. it's a shame that more men in the u.s. don't follow this gentleman's lead and ditch the jeans and untucked woven shirt and step it up a bit. we should all leave the house looking so good.

Robyn said ... (11:00 AM) :

He really reminds me of Cary Grant in the way he stands and the cut of the suit. Really likey.

This is a marvelous photo! I love the suit, a 3-button-rolled-to-2 (I believe). Note details such as the ticket pocket and pocket square. This gentleman is slightly too studied for my tastes, but no matter. This is excellent. And Bruce Boyer gets a mention. Wonderful.

Anonymous said ... (12:16 PM) :

That guy definitely knows how to dress. He looks like he's stepped right out of 1946. The broad tie, the ticket pocket, the high cut of the trousers, the tie clip, the pocket square, the Brylcreem... very Cary Grant. I am definitely envious of this man.

Note, among many delights, the way that the two button jacket is cut--and the pants properly placed--such that no belt (or in this case, I'm surmising, pants waist) is revealed.

But this is all good--beautifully done!

PS, Did I mention the shiny cap of the beautiful cap-tip shoes, which could be declasse, but here is just the opposite? The tie clip? The briefcase? The perfect relationship of tie-knot to collar shape? The suit's lovely gray-brown color? The....

Fine choices from Mr. Hill, the pink dress shirt is just enough oomph!

Anonymous said ... (3:05 PM) :

Fantastic color on that suit, and flattering! Younger guys out there, try to get past your fear of higher waists. This guy is seriously rocking the retro details. Love the tie clip, the briefcase, the hair. You heard 'em. Step it up!

To qoute Tyra Banks....Work It GRRRRLL!! Crikey he is a dapper, gent. He could break the heart of a boy/girl or two!!! Jeez. Between his beautifl look and the contrast of the alley (nod to Landis, ahem) This pic is just ROCKN'. Wow. I need a martini and and a weekend in Capri after looking at him....Own it Brotha!

Verdiales said ... (7:38 PM) :

anonymous

Yes, it's a bit of the period piece here, but he does it well, doesn't he? I wouldn't be comfortable with a collar that high myself, and I don't understand high-waisted pants from any other angle than antiquarianism, but at Hill's level of polish, it's pointless to quibble.

And that's a helluva suit, any way you cut it.

Anonymous said ... (7:44 PM) :

Brilliant the proportions are great. Particularly the way tie width, lapel width and shirt collar size complement each other. Also I noted that unlike myself he is wearing his pants not at his hips but at his waist. (It's a bad habit I'm trying to break). One question though Sart I have seen you comment many time about sleeve length what about pants? I noted that the slight break on his pant helps enhance the lengthening affect. How do you feel about pant length?

Lower the waist and you will end up seeing the waistband/belt beneath the button. Which breaks up the lines.

To atone for this, you would have to cut the jacket longer. Which throws off all the proportions.

Look at the proportions from an abstract shape point of view. Do your really want to make him look long waisted? After all, that is closer to ape than man.

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To those that say the pants should be slimmer fitting, I say, "it's been done before - classic lapels, wider ties, earth-tones, and slim pants - that was the '70s... how quickly you forget.

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I'd have to see him standing with his hands out of his pocket to make a call on whether his jacket waist is too snug.

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The only critique I have would be to suggest a slightly smaller knot on the tie.

giuseppe timore said ... (10:45 PM) :

Sometimes i forget that good looking pants come in cuts other than tight and narrow. For all you who think he looks too "period", remember that 10 years ago you would have said the same thing about the short and skinny suits (so 1960's!) that are all the rage now. Seriously, how can you mess with an outfit like this?

Anonymous said ... (11:16 PM) :

A lot of it is good. Some bits reference a late 40s or early 50s look -- the straight leg pants with the wider cuff, and the long rise to the natural waist. The shoulder is a little softer, though still built up, and the 3 roll 2 is classic. The most non-period bit is the severe waist suppression, which does have the effect of making his waist look bigger than it is. I hope a version of this comes back after the low-hipped, shrunken preppy thing is over.

He really doesn't look that "period" at all - he doesn't draw any more looks on the street due to the high-waisted, full cut of the pants than he would if the pants were narrowly cut. He draws looks because he looks sharp, not "period." And those pants, although drapey, are cut so well they look great.

The cut and the material of the suit is excellent. Very refreshing to see that shade of brown. Blue and Grey are nice, but brown needs to be considered more often. On a side note - Men, black suits are for weddings or funerals. It is a utility suit, don't wear it to work unless you are a waiter or bouncer.

The ticket pocket is beautiful.

As someone mentioned earlier, the jacket is a bit tight. It looks as though the button is about ready to pop off.

In regard to the high waist, well it certainly works here. People correctly noted that by lowering the waist you would expose the belt.

All in all this outfit works well.

In response to an earlier post, it was noted in GQ that he is in the real estate business. Being in RE myself, I would venture to guess that he is a developer. They have the most style of all RE practitioners.