The jeep bumps along a sloppy mud road carved between the country's mountainous north, its tyres running with breathtaking precision along the very edge, where nothing but air lies between them and the snake-like river winding hundreds of feet below.

More than 3,000 metres above sea level the vehicle has no room for error, its other side just inches from scraping along the rock face, its passengers worriedly monitoring how anxious the driver appears.

For his part, Shahid Karim spends as much of his time watching the mountains themselves as he does gauging how close he is bringing his jeep to the edge.

“At every second death is written on this road... This whole area is notorious for landslides,” he says, adding that falling rocks have struck his vehicle many times.

The precarious roads of the mountainous region are lifelines for its scattered and remote population. The thoroughfare Karim is travelling is the only one connecting the 2,400 residents of the village of Shimshal, Hunza district, to the outside world.

Drivers like Karim, a native of the region who has been navigating this particular stretch of road since 2004, are the only ones who use them, making a career out of ferrying villagers, tourists, and the handful of Westerners who make the knuckle-whitening journey each year.

The precarious roads of Pakistan's mountainous north are lifelines for its scattered and remote population. —AFP

They are the ones with the experience to know that landslides are as great a threat as the road's narrowness and lack of safety barriers.

During spring and autumn, when there is no snow or rain, an ibex walking delicately along the heights can trigger a rockfall, while a strong breeze on a summer's day can set pebbles sliding away.

The lightest rainfall can shift rocks, while in the frozen winters even sunlight can be dangerous, melting the snow that surrounds boulders and prevents them from raining down on the road.

Sometimes rocks falling from above are less of a danger than those tumbling away beneath the car tyres, loosened by the weight of the vehicle and sent crashing down into the abyss.

The more desperate passengers are for the journey to end, the slower the driver is forced to crawl along the roads.

“We have passengers with us whose lives depend on us,” Karim says. “So it is really important to drive slowly.”

Passengers travel in a vehicle in Shimshal valley of Hunza district in northern Pakistan. —AFP

Death is a journey

This road was inaugurated in 2003 after 18 years of labour by locals in which three villagers lost their lives.

Before then, the people of Shimshal had to walk for days, crossing icy rivers and climbing deadly ridges in freezing temperatures to reach the nearest large village of Passu.

Previous rulers of Hunza, the former principality that encompasses Shimshal and now forms part of Pakistan's northern Gilgit-Baltistan region, would banish criminals to Shimshal as punishment.

The suffering lay in the journey, which was so tough that few survived it, most slipping to their death from precarious ridges with others succumbing to cold and pneumonia.

The road, despite causing so much fear in the hearts of tourists, is therefore seen as a blessing by residents of Shimshal, bringing education and basic amenities to their remote mountain homes.

That includes electricity: for years residents have generated power with small solar panels, though this year a hydropower plant built with materials brought in along the road is set to be completed.

Tourists ride on a motorbike through Shimshal road of Hunza district. —AFP

Honking horns at dawn

Every morning the sound of a blaring car horn tears into the dawn serenity of Shimshal.

Its residents are not bothered by the rude awakening. So few people dare drive the road that — barring emergencies — those who wish to travel outside crowd into just one vehicle that leaves daily. Its driver is simply making sure no one misses the journey.

A mere six vehicles from Shimshal and four from Passu regularly make the commute. The villagers muster at a single point with their luggage as the driver continues cruising through the village honking, sometimes for up to half an hour.

Doulat Amin, the first teacher to work in Shimshal valley, is among the people waiting for one rainy dawn to get into central Hunza.

“I came here in 1966 as a teacher and there were so many difficulties back then,” the 75-year-old said.

“There was no education because there was no road.”

Travelling its rocky way is risky — but, Amin says, Allah is with the passengers. “We plead with him every time we travel on the road.”

Comments (18) Closed

Bhushan Parimoo

Oct 01, 2018 07:32pm

informative and Good job, thanks dear keep it up

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Asif A. Shah

Oct 02, 2018 02:18am

I have traveled from Ali Abad to Shmishal via a van. The van has to cross about 12 bridges. The physical terrain is just awesome. The journey is quite dangerous. However, I was told that since the road has opened up between Ali Abad to Shimshal there has not been any accident.

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RC

Oct 02, 2018 03:55am

Pakistan should involve CPEC on the project for roads in this area. Big tourist potential

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Rehan

Oct 02, 2018 09:10am

Great! A man’s adventure place

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Jawaid Islam

Oct 02, 2018 09:22am

Kudos to the populace of Shimshal...

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Dawn

Oct 02, 2018 09:25am

A destination for tourists.

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Syed Irfan ali

Oct 02, 2018 09:42am

After living my whole life in Karachi, I lived in this part of our country from 2002 to 2004 and it was the best time I spent in Pakistan. It is just like heaven on earth. People of Gilgit Baltistan and Hunza are very hospitable and kind. Pakistanis who go to abroad in their summer vacations should definitely consider these areas. In natural beauty they are no less than Switzerland.

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Umair Ahmed Shaikh

Oct 02, 2018 10:01am

I traveled to Shimshal in 2009 with a group of friends. Although the road is as risky as mentioned but a traveler a delighted by the beautiful sights and the serenity of the Shimshal valley.

Back then, when we entered into Shimshal Valley, we heard the sounds of Cricket commentary and as we reached near to School/College ground, we were astonished to see the hard ball Cricket tournament that was ongoing on perhaps the highest and the remotest Cricket ground on earth. It was a proper Cricket tournament for the entire Gilgit Baltistan region where the teams from different districts of Gilgit-Baltistan were participating.

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Ahmar Qureshi

Oct 02, 2018 10:34am

Why are we still daring death on those roads? why not to have proper planned roads? we're having the best natural beauty as compared with the rest of the countries, but that needs to be equipped with proper means of transportation. Thank you

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Alpha

Oct 02, 2018 10:35am

The jeep in the pictures clearly says "NCP 02" on its plate. My guess is that the local government knows these are Non-Custom Paid cars and have tried to regularize them by issuing plates with such numbers. Why should the rest of the country pay exorbitant taxes, GST, FED, Customs duty on its vehicle purchases if some people in districts bordering Afghanistan or Iran don't both paying a penny in taxes under Customs duty? Why is the local administration not impounding these vehicles? Is paying such tax only incumbent on the residents of urban areas?

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Anonymouseeeee

Oct 02, 2018 12:55pm

Beautiful.

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Akhtar Banbhan

Oct 02, 2018 02:20pm

Amazing,reminds me of my journey of area in 2016.

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sher mitha

Oct 02, 2018 07:16pm

Let's hope the Govt. will take interest in developing these dangerous roads for the safety of residents living and commuting in these areas which also has a great potential for Tourists traffic. More tourists means more income for locals in many respects..

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Un-Zak

Oct 02, 2018 11:09pm

Why aren't the villagers resettled at a place where there is a proper road ? Just 2500 Odd people. Kids can go to schools and colleges and older people can rest

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muhibbewatan

Oct 03, 2018 01:04am

Seems like there's no one bothered about such grave situation, which has been existence for decades now since the Northern Areas became known to the rest of Pakistan (and the world), thereby, once again, proving that Governments after Governments have faltered consistently in providing this region with proper logistical support. Does the sky (or, in this case, mountains) have to fall and tragedies have to be witnessed before someone really takes up the challenge to develop this region?

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SAira farooq

Oct 03, 2018 01:21am

I apologize I did NOT read the articles I just wanted to see the photos, I love those areas -they are beautiful in Pakistan. I hope the roads are improved but they should remain mostly the way they are nature etc. Its always heavenly and just soul pacifying to visit. Sadly without my father and his government posts or contacts, I wonder who will let me see these places again the way we did. Everything was always done- I took everything for granted.

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Shah

Oct 03, 2018 11:58am

Beautiful Pakistan. Captain Khan´s plan to build resorts will open up these areas to the rest of the country and help the local economy.

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Arnab Bardhan

Oct 04, 2018 05:34pm

A road like RAMSHACKLE & also horrible condition of the way. Anything can happen anytime on this jumping, juggling way. Thanks to Dawn for view this hill area.