The true test of a great dining establishment isn't how impressive it is when it first opens or even a year later but whether the quality level of food and service can be kept consistently high year in and year out. The unfathomably overlooked and perennially underrated Two Chefs has never been better. Some of the original signature dishes still thrill, like flakily crusted escargot pot pie with smoked pork; two mammoth slices of sweet, juicy meat loaf wrapped in bacon; and seven signature soufflés. Yet through judicious use of nightly specials, the two chefs manage to pepper their plates with fresh ideas and locally seasonal ingredients. The room is lovely in a warm, curvy, bistroish manner, and the terrifically talented staff will likewise put you at ease. A fabulous back bar is stocked with exotic vodkas, gins, rums, and whatnot from countless countries.

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