Well, in the words of one of the best 29"er wheelbuilders in the US (perhaps the world), those rims are rated for up to 185 lbs (about 84kg). NoTubes staff have stated on the NoTubes forums, not to exceed 190 lbs if running the Crests. I'd sell the rims, and pick up some LB rims for twice the cost. The difference is astounding for me between the two. And that's coming from a lot of races on the Crests on the JET 9 and then switching to the carbon rims.

Great advice! I took it and could not be happier. The LB rims with your choice of hubs is the ONLY way to go. So many manufacturers are doing the same thing (Niner is now), but you can do it yourself by ordering direct from LB (I recommend building them yourself also) for about $400 less and have equally as nice or better of a wheelset!!

I am 90kg and hopefully less by the end of the year with some good training. Thats up around 200lb but I treat my bikes gently, pick good lines and have never broken anything on a mountain bike that I can remember.

Have you read about all of the cracked Jet RDO's and Carbons? I hope these words don't come back to haunt you.

ozynigma: beautiful bike! Couple questions, does your Elite bottle cage work well with the large size frame - is it easy to remove and insert the bottle that you have shown here? Also, would you mind posting a photo showing the non-drive side of the bike? I'd like to see the dropper post cable routing. Thanks.

I dont want to highjack your thread ... but ... the new Jet 9 Carbons that are being sent out do they all have the new cable routing on the right (when sat on bike)?

I found a crack on the frame yesterday and so a replacement will no doubt the way. Mine was built just over a year ago March 2013.

I think the guide cables ran parallel with the RD guide on the right and the FD guide on the left. Of course this did not match the photo showing how to route the cables from shifters to head tube in the conventional way crossing over.

So I switched my guide cables at the top to come out with the RD on the left then crossed to the right shifter and my FD on the right and then crossed to the left shifter.

That is an interesting situation.
My friend had a bike where the front had 2 chainrings of 20 and another of 30 on his bike.
The only problem I see with your case is really the usage of a 44 plate. It wouldn't be achievable.

Has long as the solution suits you it is all that matters on my book.
Next step get another bike to justify going 2x10? haha!

Have you thought about going for example with canfield K7 microdrive adapter and shimano gearing?

That is an interesting situation.
My friend had a bike where the front had 2 chainrings of 20 and another of 30 on his bike.
The only problem I see with your case is really the usage of a 44 plate. It wouldn't be achievable.

Has long as the solution suits you it is all that matters on my book.
Next step get another bike to justify going 2x10? haha!

Have you thought about going for example with canfield K7 microdrive adapter and shimano gearing?

I actually would have liked to go with the Shimano 22/30/40 gearing because I think it would suit my range of riding and minimises the gap between chainring sizes so you don't have to do as many correction shifts at the rear when you change at the front. I don't really want to use adaptors on this bike, pretty sure I will stick with this as my only (for now) BB30 crankset. I can always change the X0 spider for a 2x10 or 1x11 on this bike if I need too.

I am not really sold on 2x systems for mtb. I treat my triple as an extension in both directions from a middle ring where I do most of my riding. I find with a double I end up doing more front changes and will usually lose some lower gears. I have moved my 2x FSA cranks to my commuter. They were 27/40 tooth.

I am running 1x10 on my Banshee Paradox hard tail, but I don't take it on really long steep climbs, just hit the local trails near home instead. So it is set up simple and a bit heavy as an XC/trail bike. You can find it in the Banshee forum pretty easily.

I also like Shimano's approach to their new 11 speed with an 11-40 tooth range on the cassette and 1x, 2x and 3x compatibility. I have a problem with paying $300 for a consumable SRAM 11spd cassette. Hopefully the 11spd XT will come in more reasonably priced in the next year or so.

The 2x10 you see there is what I use on my bike with XX and the 1x11 is the bike I'm building at the moment ( here ).

Since I don't know what type of rider you are I will not comment on 1x11 but personally would give 2x10 a try. It also depends on how steep the climbs are obviously and if you really use up all the 44t when going down (I know nothing of downhill sorry).

Hopefully it will trickle down more than the $300 it currently costs, give it a year to see an X5-1 (I hope)

My thing with a 3x setup on a trail bike is clearance, simple as that, with a 2X setup you get a lot more ground clearance and don't have to worry about bashing into stuff as easy. When I read your earlier comment I wondered why you didn't go with the Shimano compact setup, but then you said you didn't want to use adapters and don't think they do them in BB30, but could be wrong - I'm happily still running 9spd and external threaded cup BBs

For me I like a 2X setup because of the range it offers and the possibility of huge gear jumps or drops when you need them - round a corner in the bigger ring and mid way in the cassette and see a steep climb, just drop the ring to the small and that's equivalent to about 3-4 gears shifting out back. Same cruising off a slow/tech section in the granny ring and am building speed fast, just throw it up on the big ring for an instant 3-4 gear boost.