I know know the basics for the one wire 12 volt conversion,what I need to know is what needs to be changed over to 12 volts ieamp gauge,fuse,on/off switch,light switch,etc.My 6 volt system is not worth restoring except for the distributor.

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If the Tractor supply description is correct then that ballast resistor would not be correct. Ford tractors had a ballast resistor for their 6 volt systems. That is not the one you want. You need one that is around 1.5 ohms. Ballast resistors vary in ohms depending on the application. Here is a link to a NAPA version but there are many ICR numbers available that vary in the resistance.The ICR13 version should work well. Another option is to not use the original 6v coil, forget the resistor, and just get a true 12v coil for NAPA for around $25.

For my 6 to 12 volt conversion....I used the same ammeter, the same light switch with the same fuse, the same on/off switch, the same coil (but put a $7 resister from TSC). I changed the bulbs and used 10ga wire because I had a spool of it and bought the DB Electric alternator.

ajhbike wrote:For my 6 to 12 volt conversion....I used the same ammeter, the same light switch with the same fuse, the same on/off switch, the same coil (but put a $7 resister from TSC). I changed the bulbs and used 10ga wire because I had a spool of it and bought the DB Electric alternator.

This is what I did on Walt (1949 Cub) resistor from TSC etc, the 20 amp gauge works fine with the lights on etc. Arnold (1947 Cub) has a bigger amp gauge just because I had to buy one that worked anyway and he is sporting a magneto so no resistor needed. They both have original switches, fuses etc. All I changed was the bulbs in the lights.

Since I want to do a 12V conversion, I still have questions after reading all of these posts. Guess I need a step-by-step explanation.Some of the questions are:Does it matter which terminal on the ammeter you run the one wire from alternator to? And do you have to reverse all the wires from one terminal to the other going from Pos ground to Neg ground to make the ammeter read correctly?What do you do with the existing wires running to the voltage regulator? Just disconnect and tape each one?What fan belt do you use? Original or what length for a new one. I will be using the Shane Nelson type alternator. Can you use the existing adjuster to mount the alternator?Think I understand all the other thing to do, but if you all could help me out on these steps, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

There is a few different ways it can be done I guess, I did a lot of research myself, this is the diagram I used, just minus the resistor, the coil I installed had one built into it already, I used a DB AND0525 Alternator 35 amp I got off amazon, always kicks in right away and a pertronix 40011 flame thrower coil (overkill probably...but nice spark), while I was at it, I upgraded to electronic ignition. had to get a new bracket to mount alternator on, original belt was just a little small, new meter and made a new wire harness, I used original light switch, modified it just to be used as an on off switch. New 12v headlights are a bit too big for original pancake housing, with a little play I managed with a new rubber gasket to get ring to grab it tight with bulb. Used tractor all summer for stuff around house, never had any issues

kaleb58loboy wrote:30 amp gauge with 35 amp alternator? or could change to voltmeter, which ever you prefer12 volt coil with internal resister? or could use same coil and use external ballast resistor. (would be my preference).6 volt light switch for 12 volt system? no need to changeWhat amp fuse in control panel? Can use same 20 amp fuse, or drop to 15.Change wire gauge in control panel? no need to changeChange on/off switch? no need to change

Someone else did the conversion for my father in law when the Cub was "restored". Since I've had it I rewired it as the original wiring was kept and it was in terrible shape when I got it. The light bulbs and coil were already changed to 12v during the conversion.

I've kept the original 20-0-20 ammeter so far although it shows charge and I've yet to catch it showing a discharge which makes me think it's not in that great a shape. I did reverse the leads on it shortly after the conversion as it conversion also changed the battery ground from positive to negative and it was reading backwards.

I'm using a 25 amp fuse as it's what I had on hand and I wasn't sure which way to go on one.

I've also changed to a resistor coil to eliminate the ballast resistor and simplify things.

Great site,thanks for all the replies.I now have peace of mind with the 12 volt conversion,common sense comes into play here,one does notjust slap on a 12 volt alternator and assume(first 3 letters in assume)you are good to go.Again,thanks.

Believe none of what you hearHalf of what you readAll of what you see.