"It's true. I've learned a few words of republican, and it's helped me get along at work much better...."

Well in all fairness, GOP is pretty easy to learn. Basically it's just a series of noises. Scientists have discovered all that is required to create these noises is the reptilian portion of the brain.

Demmer is much more difficult to learn. It's an unbelievably complex series of excited jazz hands, uncontrollable sobbing, and random/reassuring hugs.

I've tried it here at work with poor results. I've learned two things: 1) not all spontaneous hugs are welcome by my coworkers, and 2) Ivory Soap still reigns supreme for washing OC spray out of the eyes.

College friends from Iran taught me a couple of phrases. If someone invites you to their home for a meal, you can say "dost do shonah, dard do nakoneh". It translates to something like "I hope you did not hurt your hands" [preparing this meal]. It's very polite. The other phrases, uh, a little less so.

(relative newbies like us, get a lot less positive recognition around here, methinks there is a long term hazing process at work here, i have figured out, and actually hiking with others from here seems to help too. Course, it doesn't help at all if you're bat shit crazy like me ;) Leaving perceived traces of guano behind is apparently unappealing to the masses)

Thanks, everyone, for your comments - even you, Doug, for your attempt to 'politicize' my thread - although it was FUNNY INDEED. :)

I just checked into my hotel here in Esfahan - Iran's top tourist magnet and my last stop before heading on to the various Arabian Gulf States. There are many more tourists here, and the first two hotels I inquired were fully booked! Third time's the charm - luckily for me.

I asked for the room rate and it was pretty reasonable. I handed over my HK passport (the one that contained my Iran entry visa) - got a welcoming smile - and a 10% discount.

I then noticed one of the clocks on the wall showed LA time - and remarked that was my city. "You live in America", the receptionist asked? Yes. OK, I give you 25% discount!

Hey... even if locals and truly hard-bargaining tourists can actually get even more -- I thought that was a pretty nice gesture. :)

Great thread. I just wished the west would have helped the Iranian people During their recent Green Revolution. All of the Iranians I know are high achievers and great fun. Sound like you are having a grand trip.