> A metal case might be better. It could be
connected to the ground. Rubbing> the metal won't generate static like
plastic can. I didn't buy a plastic> case for my Pi for that
reason.> > Best regards,> Fred N7FMH> >
> > _____> >From: aprsisce@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:aprsisce@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf> Of Bob Harris>
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 15:36> To:
aprsisce@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [aprsisce] OT Micro (was Golden
Packet and APRSIS32 UIFLOOD)> > > A ham in my area
(Windsor, VT, actually), made a laser cut plastic case> for> his
Raspberry PI. I have been thinking of contacting him when I get the OT>
Micro to see what would be involved in getting a case made for it.
(since> Scott apparently is not going to offer cases).> >
> On 7/18/2013 1:20 PM, Mark Petiford wrote:> > >
> > I did get my OT Micro yesterday, but haven't tried it out
yet. It looks> like I need a case for it before I mess with it. It is
too vulnerable to> static discharge damage here in dry Southern Calif.
Was hoping to have it> working soon, in time for a long drive in a
couple of weeks. Not sure I> will make it now.> >
> > Mark> KE6BB> > _____> >
> > > --> > > > > Bob
Harris (K9UDX)> Can MOTCH Katmai Henry David Thoreau UDX Bda UD
(1992-2005)> Longmeadow Bradford Torrey CD> Bath, NH>
>

kc8sfq

... Hi Fred, I have also been stopping my WebDT by selecting sleep. It s much faster to relight for the next road trip. I found that after a couple weeks of

Message 2 of 18
, Jul 19, 2013

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> Sleep is recommended on the WebDT since it has a flash drive.

/>Hi Fred,I have also been stopping my WebDT by selecting
sleep. It's much faster to relight for the next road trip. I found that
after a couple weeks of doing this, though, the two Blue Tooth ports get
flaky (lots of resets and restarts). Selecting SHUT DOWN seems to clear
this up. I'm back to using SLEEP, but it's too soon to see if that fixed
the problem. Whatever it is seems to take a WHILE to manifest its self.
The experimentation continues <G>

Have you experienced
anything like this with yours?

73, Ron KC8SFQ

Jim Walters - N4SAR

Try a toothbrush cover as a micro case?

Message 3 of 18
, Jul 23, 2013

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Try a toothbrush cover as a micro case?

Mark Petiford

Ooo! Thanks, Jim. That s a good idea. I will look at them today. I was going to carve out a dental floss dispenser, but it was really a bit too wide

Message 4 of 18
, Jul 23, 2013

0 Attachment

Ooo! Thanks, Jim. That's a good idea. I will look at them today. I was going to carve out a dental floss dispenser, but it was really a bit too wide making it impossible to plug the micro into a USB port is another USB device was next to it. I also have a piece of heat shrink tube that I didn't use from a very old Softrock SDR kit. It looks about right, but I like the hard case solution better.

I would prefer a metal case to help keep RF out, but Altoids tins
are too big, even the small ones. I can find thin wall tubing that is good in the lateral direction but will block usb ports above and below the micro is installed in. At one point, we had a hardware store that had some aluminum extrusion that might work, but the display was gone when I checked it the other day. Haven't looked for it on the internet.

The connector is the real problem. Finally ordered a pre-made cable that will let me split out the TRRS into common 3.5mm TRS (stereo) connectors. The TRRS connectors are the wave of the future, but they are really tough to solder. I have
made almost all of my cables for the entire length of my ham radio career, but this one did me in. The combination of very small solder pads, insulation that melts at or below the solder temperature, and nickel plating did me in. I finally ordered a breakout cable from an Amazon supplier. It wasn't the cost of the cable that hurt, it was the shipping...especially since I need it this week:

So far, this thing has been unflappable (that's a good thing). It has been powered on for several days now, although most of the time the Comm port is not enabled. It goes into a sleep mode, but when I enable the comm port, the GPS spits out data immediately. That means that if I keep power to it all the time, it will be locked on and ready to go as soon as my radios and computer are up. Since it goes into sleep mode when the comm port is not active, it won't run the battery down...although it probably doesn't draw enough current to worry about even when active. Still have to get it up an running with a radio, and drive it around a bit this week.

Ooo! Thanks, Jim. That's a good idea. I will look at
them today. I was going to carve out a dental floss dispenser, but it
was really a bit too wide making it impossible to plug the micro into a USB
port is another USB device was next to it. I also have a piece of heat
shrink tube that I didn't use from a very old Softrock SDR kit. It looks
about right, but I like the hard case solution better.

I
would prefer a metal case to help keep RF out, but Altoids tins are too big,
even the small ones. I can find thin wall tubing that is good in the
lateral direction but will block usb ports above and below the micro is
installed in. At one point, we had a hardware store that had some
aluminum extrusion that might work, but the display was gone when I checked it
the other day. Haven't looked for it on the internet.

The
connector is the real problem. Finally ordered a pre-made cable that
will let me split out the TRRS into common 3.5mm TRS (stereo)
connectors. The TRRS connectors are the wave of the future, but they are
really tough to solder. I have made almost all of my cables for the
entire length of my ham radio career, but this one did me in. The
combination of very small solder pads, insulation that melts at or below the
solder temperature, and nickel plating did me in. I finally ordered a
breakout cable from an Amazon supplier. It wasn't the cost of the cable
that hurt, it was the shipping...especially since I need it this
week:

So
far, this thing has been unflappable (that's a good thing). It has been
powered on for several days now, although most of the time the Comm port is
not enabled. It goes into a sleep mode, but when I enable the comm port,
the GPS spits out data immediately. That means that if I keep power to
it all the time, it will be locked on and ready to go as soon as my radios and
computer are up. Since it goes into sleep mode when the comm port is not
active, it won't run the battery down...although it probably doesn't draw
enough current to worry about even when active. Still have to get it up
an running with a radio, and drive it around a bit this week.

But, Fred, that means I probably need to go to the mall!!! Last time I was asked to go there, my daughter told me she wanted me to take her to go shopping.

Message 6 of 18
, Jul 23, 2013

0 Attachment

But, Fred, that means I probably need to go to the mall!!! Last time I was asked to go there, my daughter told me she wanted me to take her to go shopping. I told her that if I wanted to go stand around a bunch of clothes that have never been worn, I would simply go stand in her closet!

Thanks for the suggestions. This morning, I was looking at the dimensions for this thing, and it looks like the PC board is .758 wide. My USB ports on my laptop are spaced .75 center to center. Those are, of course, in inches. I was trying to preserve the ability to use both USB ports at the same time without resorting to extension cables, but with that width, my goal won't be possible. I just measured by USB to Serial adapter (not required for this device) and it is even wider at .85 wide, so it looks like
short extender cables are the way to go. I know I can plug in 2 standard extender cables at the same time, so I think I will just punt and make the enclosure out of whatever is available. I will probably just use the heat shrink in the short term, and make something a bit more substantial when I get some time. I haven't made a PC board enclosure in years, so maybe I will give that a try...not this week, but a good winter project. Not sure how RF proof that will be since it needs a window to "see" the RF from the satellites. Makes the toothbrush cover look better. I will look strange in the drugstore or the mall with my calipers measuring toothbrush covers! My kids will never be seen with me again! <g> As I look at this thing, it might be less vulnerable using an extender cable than it is sticking out of the back of my laptop.

All of this is a work-in-progress in preparation for a cross country
road trip beginning Saturday. I will probably use KE6BB-2 which is my APRSIS32 instance on my very old laptop. With 384megs of memory, it is the poor man's version of a netbook <g>. I call it "re-purposing".

<rant> BTW, to convert the TRRS connector on the Micro to a useable plug, I tried an ipod adapter cable that came with my iPod mini (or is it a micro?). The TRRS male end would go to the T3-Micro, and the other end is a USB male. I had a USB female from dead USB hub, but the whole lash-up won't really work because Apple puts a 160K resistor in the shield cable! Not sure why, but that is what it measures!!! Couldn't believe it. That is why I ordered the adapter from the Amazon supplier. I think they will sell more and more of those as TRRS becomes the new standard. Someone could make a little money developing and marketing a TRRS male that doesn't require special
tooling to solder. Insulation that doesn't melt would help. Silver plating on the pads would help. Do I sound bitter concerning the TRRS plug? Haven't posted anything on the T2 group. Not a member of that one. When I get this figured out, I will give Argent Data (Scott) some feedback. If it were me, I would suggest they simply offer an adapter on their site, or at least a TRRS connector with an unterminated cable. They aren't really terribly expensive, but shipping hurts. That could be avoided by ordering it in the same shipment as the T3-Micro. </rant>

Ooo! Thanks, Jim. That's a good idea. I will look at
them today. I was going to carve out a dental floss dispenser, but it
was really a bit too wide making it impossible to plug the micro into a USB
port is another USB device was next to it. I also have a piece of heat
shrink tube that I didn't use from a very old Softrock SDR kit. It looks
about right, but I like the hard case solution better.

I
would prefer a metal case to help keep RF out, but Altoids tins are too big,
even the small ones. I can find thin wall tubing that is good in the
lateral direction but will block usb ports above and below the micro is
installed in. At one point, we had a hardware store that had some
aluminum extrusion that might work, but the display was gone when I checked it
the other day. Haven't looked for it on the internet.

The
connector is the real problem. Finally ordered a pre-made cable that
will let me split out the TRRS into common 3.5mm TRS (stereo)
connectors. The TRRS connectors are the wave of the future, but they are
really tough to solder. I have made almost all of my cables for the
entire length of my ham radio career, but this one did me in. The
combination of very small solder pads, insulation that melts at or below the
solder temperature, and nickel plating did me in. I finally ordered a
breakout cable from an Amazon supplier. It wasn't the cost of the cable
that hurt, it was the shipping...especially since I need it this
week:

So
far, this thing has been unflappable (that's a good thing). It has been
powered on for several days now, although most of the time the Comm port is
not enabled. It goes into a sleep mode, but when I enable the comm port,
the GPS spits out data immediately. That means that if I keep power to
it all the time, it will be locked on and ready to go as soon as my radios and
computer are up. Since it goes into sleep mode when the comm port is not
active, it won't run the battery down...although it probably doesn't draw
enough current to worry about even when active. Still have to get it up
an running with a radio, and drive it around a bit this week.

My daughter is now old to take herself, mother and/or a friend. Whew! I wonder if goosing it up with silicon would be a good choice. Of course, the variety

Message 7 of 18
, Jul 23, 2013

0 Attachment

My daughter is now old to take herself, mother and/or a
friend. Whew!

I wonder if goosing it up with silicon would be a good choice.
Of course, the variety used on fish tanks is recommended since it doesn't leach
out acetic acid, which kills fish and corrodes metal. Hot melt glue might work
too. I don't know the melting temperature so I am not sure if it is too high or
not. You could also flood it with epoxy. All of these things make it more
difficult to rework if you mess it up.

I would have picked the USB Mini-B or Micro. I will adapt.
Besides my GTRANS is no longer in its original form so why should this not be
any different. :)

If I were to plug this into my vehicle PC, the GPS would be
looking down, yes, the USB ports are upside down. Even if they were right-side
up, the GPS would still be pointing the wrong direction. So whether I
use an extension or standard USB cable, I still need one. Plus now the
GPS can be placed where it gets the best sky view. The extension is
handy to have around anyway.

Oh, I don't like things stuck into the ports anyway but can't
get away from it. I am not as worried about the device as I am about my PC port
breaking inside. I am seen enough to know I don't want it to happen to me. Many
USB ports are PC mounted, not case mounted so the PCB is damaged if the dongle
is smacked.

But,
Fred, that means I probably need to go to the mall!!! Last time I was
asked to go there, my daughter told me she wanted me to take her to go
shopping. I told her that if I wanted to go stand around a bunch of
clothes that have never been worn, I would simply go stand in her
closet!

Thanks for the suggestions. This morning, I was looking
at the dimensions for this thing, and it looks like the PC board is .758
wide. My USB ports on my laptop are spaced .75 center to center.
Those are, of course, in inches. I was trying to preserve the ability to
use both USB ports at the same time without resorting to extension cables, but
with that width, my goal won't be possible. I just measured by USB to
Serial adapter (not required for this device) and it is even wider at .85
wide, so it looks like short extender cables are the way to go. I know I
can plug in 2 standard extender cables at the same time, so I think I will
just punt and make the enclosure out of whatever is available. I will
probably just use the heat shrink in the short term, and make something a bit
more substantial when I get some time. I haven't made a PC board
enclosure in years, so maybe I will give that a try...not this week, but a
good winter project. Not sure how RF proof that will be since it needs a
window to "see" the RF from the satellites. Makes the toothbrush cover
look better. I will look strange in the drugstore or the mall with my
calipers measuring toothbrush covers! My kids will never be seen with me
again! <g> As I look at this thing, it might be less vulnerable
using an extender cable than it is sticking out of the back of my
laptop.

All of this is a work-in-progress in preparation for a cross
country road trip beginning Saturday. I will probably use KE6BB-2 which
is my APRSIS32 instance on my very old laptop. With 384megs of memory,
it is the poor man's version of a netbook <g>. I call it
"re-purposing".

<rant> BTW, to convert the TRRS connector
on the Micro to a useable plug, I tried an ipod adapter cable that came with
my iPod mini (or is it a micro?). The TRRS male end would go to the
T3-Micro, and the other end is a USB male. I had a USB female from dead
USB hub, but the whole lash-up won't really work because Apple puts a 160K
resistor in the shield cable! Not sure why, but that is what it
measures!!! Couldn't believe it. That is why I ordered the adapter
from the Amazon supplier. I think they will sell more and more of those
as TRRS becomes the new standard. Someone could make a little money
developing and marketing a TRRS male that doesn't require special tooling to
solder. Insulation that doesn't melt would help. Silver plating on
the pads would help. Do I sound bitter concerning the TRRS plug?
Haven't posted anything on the T2 group. Not a member of that one.
When I get this figured out, I will give Argent Data (Scott) some
feedback. If it were me, I would suggest they simply offer an adapter on
their site, or at least a TRRS connector with an unterminated cable.
They aren't really terribly expensive, but shipping hurts. That could be
avoided by ordering it in the same shipment as the T3-Micro.
</rant>

Ooo! Thanks, Jim. That's a good idea. I will look at
them today. I was going to carve out a dental floss dispenser, but it
was really a bit too wide making it impossible to plug the micro into a USB
port is another USB device was next to it. I also have a piece of heat
shrink tube that I didn't use from a very old Softrock SDR kit. It
looks about right, but I like the hard case solution better.

I
would prefer a metal case to help keep RF out, but Altoids tins are too big,
even the small ones. I can find thin wall tubing that is good in the
lateral direction but will block usb ports above and below the micro is
installed in. At one point, we had a hardware store that had some
aluminum extrusion that might work, but the display was gone when I checked
it the other day. Haven't looked for it on the internet.

The
connector is the real problem. Finally ordered a pre-made cable that
will let me split out the TRRS into common 3.5mm TRS (stereo)
connectors. The TRRS connectors are the wave of the future, but they
are really tough to solder. I have made almost all of my cables for
the entire length of my ham radio career, but this one did me in. The
combination of very small solder pads, insulation that melts at or below the
solder temperature, and nickel plating did me in. I finally ordered a
breakout cable from an Amazon supplier. It wasn't the cost of the
cable that hurt, it was the shipping...especially since I need it this
week:

So
far, this thing has been unflappable (that's a good thing). It has
been powered on for several days now, although most of the time the Comm
port is not enabled. It goes into a sleep mode, but when I enable the
comm port, the GPS spits out data immediately. That means that if I
keep power to it all the time, it will be locked on and ready to go as soon
as my radios and computer are up. Since it goes into sleep mode when
the comm port is not active, it won't run the battery down...although it
probably doesn't draw enough current to worry about even when active.
Still have to get it up an running with a radio, and drive it around a bit
this week.