Wood filler comes in several varieties, but for filling the holes where drawer pulls were removed I like Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler. Here is an image of the container.

Because the product is water-based, I do not use sandpaper to smooth the dried repair. Rather, I take a tile sponge, dampen it, wring is almost dry, and then wipe the surface to re-wet and smooth the surface.

I have found that this approach results in the smoothest repair and when I paint, the repair looks perfectly smooth.

Another approach is to sand after priming which levels the repair area with the surrounding surface. This approach requires a 220-grit sandpaper and may require repeat application of primer followed by sanding to obtain that perfectly smooth repair.

NOTE: I use the dampened sponge technique on spackle ... it eliminates that familiar two-inch spackle spot that commonly shows through your paint.

I am also painting my kitchen cabinets, and I will be getting the paint plus primer as suggested. In addition I am changing my hardware and have to fill in several hole. I used filler and sanded but it still is visible under paint where the holes have been patched. Any tips on how to get a smoother finish? Do I just need to put on more coats?

Stain is really mean to sink into the wood and draw out the beauty of it, putting on plastic would pretty much just dry as a really thin, filmy top coat, and would probably not get the color you're actually looking for. You can try on a small piece, but it's really not meant for that. The only way I've personally ever gotten plastic to really stain was by using coffee, but I don't think you want to be doing that for your whole kitchen :D

Using a specific type of paint or spray paint that is meant for plastics will work, but it will give you a more monochromatic look.

There is a product that is pretty new on the market called: Transformations by Rust-Oleum. It can be applied over laminate, and may be helpful to you. It's an entire DIY refinishing kit and you can get it in many different finishes. I know you aren't much for painted cabinets, but to me these look nothing like the traditional paint I normally think of for cabinets. ChristineClaret from our community did a video demoing the product if you'd like to check it out here, Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations.

i want to stain my kitchen cabinets but the middle of them are some kind of plastic can i stain it to have it match the wood part if so what kind of stain can i use, i need help, i really hate painted cabinets

A good
choice would be our Behr Ultra Simi-Gloss Interior Enamel. This product allows
you skip a primer coat, as the primer is contained in the paint. A simi-gloss
sheen would give the best look without being to shinny. Our Martha Stewart line
would be another option. The Martha living products are all color coordinated,
so if you are doing a kitchen remodel, you can buy the matching Martha Stewart decor
products. I have included links below with more information on both products.

Remember preparation is the key to a good
paint job!

The
first step would be to thoroughly clean the cabinets and trim. Paint does not
adhere well to grease or dirt.

Wash the
surface with TSP or a similar product, and rinse well with a damp cloth.

Sand the
surface, with a 120 grit or 150 grit sand paper to remove any sheen presently
on the cabinets.

After sanding wipe again with a damp cloth, to remove any remaining sanding dust.

Finally
mask and cover the surrounding areas, painting can be a messy job. Have a few
rags ready to wipe

up spills and catch
any drips.

Test
your color of choice inside a cabinet door first to see if it looks right, if
it looks good, you’re on your way.