3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModels, Cave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD⇒Crystal – optional (max 8mm OD, 25mm length), or 3D printed crystal => shien-crystal

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.Naigon Elelctronic Creations– from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.⇒Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).⇒Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.⇒Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended⇒Heatsink (1″ led module) is included with the hilt.⇒Switches are included with the hilt.⇒Speaker, 20mm Speaker only⇒Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.⇒Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.⇒Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.⇒RICE port– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.⇒7/8″ OD Blades or 1″ OD blades.

When the blade is removed, you can add a blade plug for security and aesthetic ⇒Example in the shop

DIY Instructions:

Note 2:30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).

Note 3: The whole hilt is meant to be install friendly, however, intermediate skills will be needed to install the saber (cram-fu, precise soldering, …). These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks. Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 4:About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 5:Recharge port wiring reminder:

Step 1- Wire your led and build the led module

Step 2- Wire and install the switches provided into the led module. We first sand off one side of the leads, so that they won’t be shorts once installed in the heatsink (insulating the switches before installing them is also necessary).

Notes: Make sure the wires take as less space as possible behind the heatsink.

Step 3- Add the switch plungers to the hilt, then slide in the led module in. Once checked that the switch are well aligned with the plungers, lock the led module using the retention screw provided with the hilt. Make sure to test your switches before going further.

Step 4- Insert your battery into the dedicated chassis module.

Step 5 – Wire and insert the speaker into the same chassis module as shown below.

Step 6 – The module inserts into the black hilt as shown below. There is a hole that aligns withe the covertec screw hole. Open the chassis hole using a drill bit and Dremel to make sure the covertec screw locks in easily and secure the chassis from sliding down (then you can unlock that chassis module to proceed with the install).

Step 10 – (Prizm or CF related) solder the speaker and power wires, then add the Soundboard to the chassis.

Step 11 – Wire and install the recharge port into the back of the soundboard module. First cut the port leads to the minimum needed. Depending on the recharge port, expanding a bit the dedicated hole on the chassis will be required for it to slide through easily and be secured with the associated hex nut (a drill bit and a Dremel can be used for that).

Step 12 – Finish wiring the soundboard.

Step 13 – Finish wiring the soundboard.

Step 14 – Add the cover and secure it with the 3 rods. And test again.

Notes: If you wish to use a RICE port, you can install a Micro JST female plug (3 wires) in the board cover. You will then have to create an adapter for your RICE cable (either female jack / male Micro JST, or cut the RICE cable to add a micro JST connection).

Step 15 – Assemble the soundboard module back.

Important:Before assembling the black to into the shroud and lock everything using the coverted screw, understand that the slide in/out feature of the chassis is optional. The chassis is designed that way to ease the installation and leave as less wires as possible in front of the battery module (to line up the speaker with the sound holes). If you don’t need the sliding feature, glue both module together and lock the assembly with the Covertec screw. If you want to use the sliding feature, make sure there is enough wire length between both modules and that the wires are centered properly not to prevent the chassis to slide back entirely.