"I've never felt more secretive in my life. The restaurant was completely dark, the blinds shut, the lights off. There were several people ordering and standing around.

Then a manager approached us and said "We've had some trouble with the police, so we can only serve food to take out".

So we ordered and took our food back to our hotel. Carrying our steaming hot food through the streets of Aqaba I definitely felt a hint of guilt. So, you try to be as subtle as you can. Keep the bag out of view and definitely don't eat and drink until you get back indoors. That is life here during Ramadan."