Easton Haven carbon bar *help*

Hi, I've recently bought some Haven carbon bars and aluminium stem. I've put them on my bike, but I don't have a torque wrench, so I've tightened the face plate by hand. I haven't applied much pressure, just enough to make sure the bars are secure. Subsequently, I've noticed something that looks like it could be a crack underneath the resin, but I'm really not sure.

Can someone who knows about these things have a look and give me some feedback? Thanks

OK, so the carbon is laid vertically and horizontally? I'm a bit concerned because it's near the stem, and there seems to be a lot of problems in regard to carbon bars and over tightening face plate bolts. These are my first carbon bars.

you are good as was said before it is the carbon lay up. mine look the same as do my havoc carbons,

I have had easton carbon bars on my last 4 bikes and none have failed or had any problems. Make sure you get some carbon paste which will allow you to use less torque to stop the bar from slipping. FSA makes some good stuff.

I also just tighten the bar enough to stop it from spinning when pushing down on the suspension as hard as I can. With the paste that seems to be good for the trails also.

Do you guys all use carbon paste? Do you really need it? I find I can get them quite firm withou having to tighten too much, however they will spin if I put downward force on them, like push down hard on the forks.

however they will spin if I put downward force on them, like push down hard on the forks.

That is much too loose! Just imagine if that happened when you landed from a jump... Follow the direction from Easton on how to tighten the bar. If you want them torqued take your bike to the LBS and have them torque it for you. If you bought the bar from them I am sure they will do it for free.

That is normal I have them like the others on all my carbon bars with no failures and I am big guy that has been running Easton carbon bars since 2005. They are not anywhere near as delicate as you are treating them.

I run no paste on anyone of mine and just torque them to spec or by feel these days with no issues.

That is much too loose! Just imagine if that happened when you landed from a jump... Follow the direction from Easton on how to tighten the bar. If you want them torqued take your bike to the LBS and have them torque it for you. If you bought the bar from them I am sure they will do it for free.

LOL, I have't ridden with them like that, I'm still building the bike, an old VP-Free. Thanks for your advice.

So, just got my Havens in today. I do have the exact same marking in the middle of the bar as the OP. Almost identical. However, just for sh&ts I shinned a flashlight through to the bar see what it looked like inside. The line I have circled in these photos extend the whole length of the bar.
Is that part of the unidirectional carbon fiber manufacturing process or is this already compromised in some way? Have you guys observed this as well?Am I being paranoid? Maybe, but CF isn't cheap!
You guys are experts, check out these pics and lemme know what you think!

My havocs have the same thing. As others mentioned, it's just uni-directional layup... nothing super exact

The suggestion of tightening faceplate in an X pattern is bad advice - I've cracked one like this - you're essentially forcing the faceplate to twist unnaturally. It's unlike a car wheel where it's cylindrically symmetrical. The newer easton stems are very specific about tightening the top bolts first and then the bottom. I also think you should use a torque wrench - they're very inexpensive these days and I don't know how you'd feel confident in 'guessing' the torque.

Probably yes and definitely yes. It makes a big difference in the amount of clamping force needed on carbon bars, also, one tube is enough to see you through for years and years, so it's worth getting anyway.

The crease on the inside is resin that gets caught in the bladder crease. The line on the outside is just the end of the carbon sheet. It has to stop somewhere . You don't see a raised crease on the outside because it is pressed against a smooth mold and or smoothed afterwards.