Copper flat stock being harder to find ( but better and much higher in price ) I go cheap way and jumper F&R switch with a piece of 1/2" copper tubing hammered flat and drilled and havent had any problems so far with normal usage?
JUST MY TWO CENTS WORTH?

Just wondering. Why do you suggest copper bar in place of welding cable? Most other post state the current travels on the outside surface of the wires thus welding cable being the better choice than bar stock.

Exactly... the two bottom buss bars must be hooked together with either a piece of copper or just a small 4 Gauge wire looped from one post to the other... I've seen it done both ways with no problems.... And to answer Scottyb about the micro switches..... I've always been able to transfer three micros to this switch with no problem. It's possible that in older models... maybe 96 or so and older that it may have a different cam but anything later than that should work fine. I've done it on cars as old as a 97 and it works fine... Most customers lately however have been happy with just the one micro switch. The other two are nothing more than the reverse buzzer (Not necessary) and the half speed resistor for reverse (not necessary either).

Thanks, so far so good. Now which two wires get connected to the 2 micro switch connectors and can I just eliminate or electric tape up the rest of them? I have the following wires as choices:
Red
Red w/stripe
Green
Green w/stripe
White
White w/stripe
Orange
Black

I have found that a #6 or #4 cable once you add ends is so close that its hard to make jumper on lower F&R switch lugs without making it long enough to cause possible rubbing on frame or batterys. By using brass bar stock or tubing hammered flat this solves the problem.

Thanks, so far so good. Now which two wires get connected to the 2 micro switch connectors and can I just eliminate or electric tape up the rest of them? I have the following wires as choices:
Red
Red w/stripe
Green
Green w/stripe
White
White w/stripe
Orange
Black

Sorry it took so long to answer this but....... Here's whatcha do to eliminate the buzzer and half speed reverse..

Butt connect the GREEN to the WHITE wires that were previously connected to the rear micro. This eliminates half speed reverse.... Cut the existing black wire off in the harness and tuck it away... The red wire with the white stripe and the orange wire are nothing more than reverse buzzer wires... You can cut them away as well... Put some tape on the end of them to keep them from touching anything and causing a spark.. Last, hook the White wire with the black stripe and the Green wire with the white stripe to the Microswitch on the F&R... You'll be good to go. No annoying buzzer, and no limp-mode reverse.

Sorry it took so long to answer this but....... Here's whatcha do to eliminate the buzzer and half speed reverse..

Butt connect the GREEN to the WHITE wires that were previously connected to the rear micro. This eliminates half speed reverse.... Cut the existing black wire off in the harness and tuck it away... The red wire with the white stripe and the orange wire are nothing more than reverse buzzer wires... You can cut them away as well... Put some tape on the end of them to keep them from touching anything and causing a spark.. Last, hook the White wire with the black stripe and the Green wire with the white stripe to the Microswitch on the F&R... You'll be good to go. No annoying buzzer, and no limp-mode reverse.

Thanks, I will try this in the morning and hopefully will be up and running.