Tom Ford’s super-sexy Fall 1995 show for Gucci was, as Vogue’sSarah Mower has put it, “one of those hitting-in-the-solar-plexus moments” for the fashion set. Two seasons later, his fall 1996 show had the same effect for a much broader audience, now receptive to Ford’s new/old take on glamour, and tiring of the waif. “People were maybe a little bit too afraid to celebrate hedonism on the runway,” Ford later said. Not so the be-stubbled Texan. Vogue dubbed the show, which closed with showstopping white jersey gowns that nodded to Halston and Elsa Peretti, the “fashion equivalent of a one-night stand at Studio 54.”