Mugler S/S 2013

Mugler by Nicola Formichetti S/S 2013

In all its manifestations, the house of Mugler has represented a dynamic, fashion forward take on the idea of femininity – which means Mugler sets trends rather than follows them. Under the creative direction of Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné that has meant a futuristic take on womenswear, focused on clothing beyond the boundaries of pragmatism. Voluminous, monochromatic space age dresses covered in fur and fringe, asymmetrical leather skirts covered in peekaboo cutouts and worn with lime green lipstick, mini-dresses with sheer panels that reveal enough flesh to warrant an NC-17 rating: these are the kinds of Gaga-worthy delights we’re used to seeing on the Mugler runway.

Spring finds Formechetti and Peigne in a different mood; the duo haven’t lost their ability to shock and awe, but their focus has turned towards realism – or at least reality of the nouveau chic fashion scene. “I’m surrounded by all these cool girls and I want to see them wearing my clothes,” Formichetti quipped pre-show. It looks like he’ll be getting his wish; the array of wearable, beautiful and just plain stylish offerings shown this season is sure to make many women happy. Front row stars Azealia Banks and Sky Ferreira, in particular seem made for the collection’s quirkier pieces.

And what a collection it was! Working from a loose interpretation of several themes, ranging from Nicola’s travels and Guy Bourdin’s slick imagery, to Wong Kar Wai’s modern classic, ‘In the Mood for Love’ the line delivered a series of looks focused on showing off long legs and nipped waists. The slinky, sexy vibe was punctuated by incredible textures; matte leather set against transparent silk, a glossy sea green skirt accented with tortoise shell shoes. Even the soft folds of Lindsey Wixson’s asymmetrical top and culottes combo provided a graphic kick.

The snarling panther pattern emblazoned on several dresses, served as an apt reflection of the collection’s assertive sexual pulse. Mulger is not for the faint at heart. With all the people blogging, reflagging, liking and fighting to transform a physical experience into a virtual one, it is easy to forget that only a select few have the cojones to pull off the full Mugler look. Working a lacquered tiered mini ala Andie Arthur takes a certain fearlessness, one that is in short supply these days. Perhaps that is where the newly launched handbag line comes into play. the line’s first foray into bags is a crowd pleasing mix of the classic and unexpected and is guaranteed to look good in the arms of even the most timid fashion follower.