Overview

There's a couloir off Mount Alice's north face that can only be seen from a very specific angle- one which requires that you be way back in the basin. It's a really straightforward ascent once you get in it though, and one heck of great ski descent.

Getting There

Take the normal path up Wild Basin towards the Lion Lakes as described in the standard route. However, don't bother gaining any ridges as you come into the basin just north of Alice, instead stay low and climb up the snowfields below, making your way towards the choppy north face of the peak itself. Keep trucking up this trough until you're just about to hit the big bowl (usually filled with snow) and cut south up the steep face (which also should be filled in).

Route Description

You should be able to pick out the route as you get into it- just remember that you need to get pretty far up basin before you make your way up. There's a large rock outcrop that has patches of snow on either side of it that you'll want to head towards, and you can opt to go right around it and work through some rotted out snow; or go left and climb a short class four pitch to get up into the base of it. Either way, once you're around this rock the couloir will become instantly visible.

Once inside the couloir, it will begin to curve to your right, and then goes up to what appears to be the summit of Alice. This is just an illusion though, as you'll see when you crest the ridge. Don't despair though, the couloir will keep heading up and you should follow it. It leads to the ridge which drops down onto the opposing east face. Watch out as you approach this point though, as there might just be a cornice built up here which you should avoid at all costs- the seemingly gentle couloir ends in a very massive drop...

From the connection of these two snowfields, you can head for the summit by getting on the rocks and traversing up and to your right (west). It's manageable scree from here on out, and you'll soon come to a saddle that leads to either summit. Keep going west to hit the true one, and you'll find the summit log beneath a large pile of rock.

Essential Gear

As is the case with most couloirs, you'll want an ice axe, crampons, and very waterproof shoes.

External Links

Skiing the Couloir

The width (about three ski lengths), the length (which comes within 200 vert of the summit), the pitch (a sustained 45+ degree slope), and the coverage (all except for one minor downclimb), can all add up to one fine ski descent.

Images

"Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling. There are rules."
--Walter Sobchack