Doug& Morri Visit St.
John's, Newfoundland

St. John's - indeed, the whole
province of Newfoundland & Labrador - is a special place, quite
unlike anywhere else in Canada. Like most tourists, we were
utterly charmed; by the sights, certainly, but most enduringly by
the people. Newfoundlanders are a gregarious and garrulous
lot. A note of caution: don't engage anyone in conversation
unless you have lots of time to spare! Like their Irish cousins a
hop across the pond, they have the gift of the gab, an original
turn of phrase and a vocabulary all their own (I have a hefty
Newfoundland dictionary to prove it!) - the whole wrapped in an
irresistible brogue. It makes for a seductive package, which is
why any visitor who ventures to Canada's most easterly point -
and enters that disorienting time zone a half hour later than
Atlantic Time - is bound to return again and again.

Tour
of Government House, home to the province's Lieutenant
Governors. This magnificent Regency edifice, built at enormous
expense in 1829, has a colorful history, including frescoed
ceilings done by Polish convict Alexander Pindikowsky. The
current Lieutenant Governor, the Honourable Edward Roberts,
recently opened Government House to the public. Free one-hour
guided tours at 10:00 a.m., Wednesdays & Thursdays. Book in
advance. (709) 729-4494.
http://www.heritage.nf.ca/govhouse/govhouse/default.html

The
Veiled Virgin at the Presentation
Convent, next to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist at 200
Military Road, should not be missed. This small marble statue by
19-th century Italian sculptor Giovanni Strazza is a remarkable
work of art and clever illusion, flawlessly executed.
Presentation Convent, in Cathedral Square, is open to the public
daily from 10:30 a.m. - noon, 2 - 4 p.m. No charge but donations
welcome.
http://www.heritage.nf.ca/society/veiled_virgin.html

The Crow's
Nest, a private officers' club tucked
away in the heart of historic St. John's, is a treasure trove of
World War II memorabilia, including a working periscope,
reclaimed from a captured German submarine, protruding through
its roof. Visitors with a serious interest in naval artifacts and
history are welcome to call and arrange a visit. (709) 753-6927.
http://www.crowsnestnf.ca

Tour
of Quidi Vidi Brewing, the largest
microbrewery east of Quebec. In business since 1996, this
private company ships over 100,00 dozen bottles a year from its
picturesque locale and brews six brands of beer and ale,
including our favorites, 1892 and Eric's Red.
Sample them all in the tasting room. Call in advance to book a
tour. (709) 738-4040.
http://www.newfoundlandbeer.com/

Nightlife in St. John's

Most of the
action happens on George St., which is wall to wall pubs,
each with its own style and clientele.

Auntie
Crae's, an old-fashioned emporium of
fresh baking and specialty foods, is the place for
a wholesome cafeteria-style lunch, a chai latte or afternoon tea.
Its sitting room is a downtown oasis of calm where you can read
the paper, listen to music and relax with no obligation to
purchase a thing. However, that would be a mistake! Everything
baked or cooked on the premises is scrumptious, and Auntie Crae's
apple flips, stuffed with chunks of apple and raisins, at $1 a
piece, are one of the best deals in town. 272 Water St. (709)
754-066. www.auntiecraes.com

Restaurants

The Gypsy
Tea Room, a charming restaurant-bar
owned and operated by Emir Mahic, a handsome Bosnian émigré,
features an eclectic, multi-ethnic cuisine deliciously executed
at surprisingly reasonable prices. After the kitchen closes,
tables are pushed back and the place rocks as dancers sway to a
mainly Latin beat. 195 Water St., (709) 739-4766. Reservations
recommended.

The
Winterholme Heritage Inn,
an opulent Queen Anne Revival-style mansion, has been restored to
its former 19th-century glory by its congenial hosts,
Ruby and Richard Cook. Fourteen rooms to choose from including
king and queen suites, with whirlpool baths and working
fireplaces. 79 Rennies Mill Road, (709) 739-7979 or toll-free
1-800-599-7829 www.winterholmeheritageinn.com

Leaside Manor Heritage Inn.
An elegant and romantic manor built in the 1920s, this inn is
both luxurious and cozy. 39 Topsail Road. (709) 722-0387 or
toll-free 1-877-807-7245.
www.leaside.nf.ca

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Morri
Mostowand Doug Long are available for travel and other assignments from
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Contact us via
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