How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Crags in Bad Kloof

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.

Minefield 6b+/22

Vays und Meenz 7a/24

Streef Bogananoff 7a/24

Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28

Brandenburg Gate 6b/21

Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27

Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade

Against the Grain 7c/28

Jabulani 7c/28

Big Bag Voodoo 5/17

Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009

Laundry

Lion Said

Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.

Hello Aloe 5-/15

Devil Speak 6b+/21

Short Cut 6b+/21

Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23

Come Short 7a+/25

Peanut Gallery

Pipeline

Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.

Playground

Playground Routes -

Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18

Jungle Jim 6a/19

See Saw 4/15

The Jester 6c+/24

Party-on Wayne 7a/25

Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27

Powerplay 7a+/25

Fun in the Sun 6b+/22

Rage

Rage Routes -

Bullet in the Head 8a/30

Sloth

South Park

South Park Routes - On the right hand side between Supertubes and the Palace.

Cartman gets 7a/25

Who Killed Kenny 7b+/27

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Routes from Left to Right

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

Wax my Gun and have some Fun

21

6 Bolts

T Hyde 1999

route is on the far left of the crag

The Dumper

15

7 Bolts

Stuart Brown 2004

Beach Break

19

7 Bolts

Stuart Brown 2004

Whoa She Poopie

29

10 Bolts

BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998

Originally graded 30/8a

Point Break

30

10 Bolts

Jono Fisher 1991

Originally graded 29

Rad and Bad

29

10 Bolts

Mike Roberts 1991

Surf and Turf

23

7 Bolts

<add FA>

Leap Tide

27

9 Bolts

Stuart Brown 2004

Shares same chains as Thruster

Thruster

26

7 Bolts

Sean Maasch 1992

one of the most climbed routes in Montagu

Triple Stinger

26

7 Bolts

Sean Maasch 1991

J-Bay

28

9 Bolts

D Wiemar 1997

<unknown>

31

5 Bolts

Clinton Martinengo

Hypoxia

29

7 Bolts

G Hoerhager 1996

the roof route over the bench

First Wave

24/25

5 Bolts

Jeremy Ward 1998

<unknown>

<add details>

The Hotel

The Hotel Routes -

The Key 7b+/27

The Bell Boys 7b/26

U Like Jamin 6c/23

Rim Service 7a/24

The Swamp

Routes -

Gruff 7b/26

Route Do Me 7b+/27

Gluttony 7c+/29

Where Eagles Dare 5-/16

There Lurks the 4+/13

The Palace

The Palace Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Bad Cop, No Donut

24/7a

6 Bolts

FA. J Samson. 2004.

Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs

2.

Elegantly Wasted

26/7b

10 Bolts

FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.

3.

S102

25/7a+

10 Bolts

FA. J Orton. 2004.

4.

Lexi's Route

25/7a+

7 Bolts

<unknown>

5.

Cyberpunk

25/7a+

9 Bolts

*****

FA. R Nattrass. 1996.

6.

MoonaBoos

27/7b+

10 Bolts

FA. J Orton. 1999.

7.

Shagadelic

23/6c+

8 Bolts

FA. J Orton. 2000

8.

Burning Chrome

28/7c

14 Bolts

FA. R Nattrass. 1995.

9.

Judge Dredd

29/7c+

13 Bolts

FA. R Nattrass. 1996.

10.

Strange Days

31/8a+

5 Bolts

FA. E Wiercx. 1997.

11.

About Time

27/7b+

12 Bolts

FA. C Martinengo. 2004.

12.

The Activist

30/8a

11 Bolts

FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.

13.

The Neuromancer

23/6c+

8 Bolts

FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.

14.

Mad Max

21/6b+

14 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

15.

Psycho Ranger

20/6b

13 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Love Machine

6b+/22

2.

Stealin'

6b+/22

3.

Digital Bitch

7b/26

4.

Demons and Wizards

7b+/28

5.

Easy Living

7b/26

6.

November Afternoon

6c/23

7.

July Morning

6b+/22

8.

Firefly

6a/19

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk, Morning shade

Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)