PastureGolf.com finds itself in the middle of an ongoing discussion regarding
the construction, care and maintenance of what is known as sand greens.
We have received messages from those who have old courses with existing
sand greens and from those who are interested in building new sand greens
courses. This is not meant to be a legal guide on property uses, property
taxes, land use or environmental law. Who knew a simple thing like Pasture
Golf could be so complex? What we have here are some "Frequently
Asked Questions" and some commentary about sand greens, which we
shall post in bulletin board style. To contribute your views on this subject,
feel free to contact us.

The protocol for raking sand greens
is demonstrated by Bruce at the New England Golf
Course in New England, North Dakota
A special two-sided rake is used to groom the green. One side of the rake
is toothed to create a grooved surface on the sand, the other side of
the rake is a straight edge to create a smooth putting surface.

1.
After the golfer's ball reaches the sand green, the rake is used to smooth
a path from the ball to the hole.

2. Bruce admires the smooth pathway which he has just raked and hopes
he will be able to sink the putt.

3.
After the player putts out, the toothed rake is used to groom the green.

4. The rake is dragged in a circular motion, beginning at the hole and
working away from it. Care is taken not to expose the lip of the cup.
(Photos by Cal Steiner)

"Our couse has been around since the the 20's and I think some of
our cups have been around that long too. We did replace some a few years
back, after vandals ran over the greens in golf carts, flattening flagsticks
and bending up cups.

Sand
green cups are made up of two pieces as opposed to the single cup design
used on grass greens. They consist of a sleeve which the cup either slides
inside or rests on the top of the sleeve by virtue of a flanged rim. They
are made of steel, have a bottom with holes in it to allow for water drainage,
and have the flag support, welded to the bottom. This enables the golfer
to remove stick, drag path while cup is in hole, then remove to empty
sand and putt. Channel lock pliers are common equipment in our foursomes
to aide in the removal of sticky cups. I would think someone has improved
on this technology but I've never seen it so if you come across a better
mousetrap let me know. Also we love to share
our course with avid sand golfers so let me know if you're in the
Kansas City area and we'll tee it up. Good luck!" - T.L. 11/22/02

Some Further Questions & Answers
About Sand Greens

Q: We are celebrating our 100 years at the
Santa Ana Country Club. Part of the celebration is having the members
putt on a sand green. I need some info on how to construct a small (200-300
sq.ft.) green. - D.Z., Santa Ana Country Club, Santa Ana, California

A: Thanks for contacting us regarding your
sand greens question. I am forwarding your request for information to
others who have experience with building and/or maintaining sand greens
courses. Perhaps they can be of help in your search for information on
how-to build a temporary sand green for your Country Club's Centennial
Celebration. Good luck! Please let us know how it turns out. We'd love
a photo series of the construction process to post on our sand greens
Q&A page.

"I grew up in Florida and there was a muni in the town of
Sanford that had sand greens that were saturated in used crank case
oil and rolled every few days. This was in the late '40s before "environmental
awarness", but talk about fast greens it was like putting on
linoleum." - R.D., Palo Alto, CA

Q: The use of used motor oil, turbine oil,
and other petroleum products is banned for use on sand greens. Has anyone
tried other chemicals, like dust control for roads. I do not know the
name of the products. - J.C.

A:Here's a source
of information about a soybean
oil by-product that's used for dust control on roadways that looks
promising for sand greens. There are contact names and numbers given on
the site. Maybe you could do some research and let us know what you find
out!

Q: I own some land
in south central Nebraska and am considering putting in a small sand greens
golf course for personal and family use. Nothing commercial. Can you provide
any information about how to build a sand green? Someone told me Dig
a hole, pour in some sand, pour oil on the sand. I don't believe
the E.P.A. would take kindly to me pouring oil on the ground! So what
do I mix with the sand? Are there recommendations on how deep the sand
should be? How big the greens should be? Where can I buy the cups for
a sand green? Is there an Association of Sand Greens Courses
or something like that? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
- K.S.

A: Thanks for contacting us with your sand
greens questions. I am going to refer you to T.L. of K.C. who contacted
us in February when he was inquiring about developing a dialog with other
pasture golfers to share ideas on maintenance and care of browns
(the affectionate name for sand greens). He's also interested in possibly
engaging in a traveling competition tournament with another sand green
course.

Putting on sand was child’s play because the first sand greens
were all flat, just like a pie, and they were recessed in the fairway,
actually. They used beach sand with coconut oil to build some consistency
so it would not blow away. A burlap sack was strapped to the end of a
pole and the caddie would go around and smooth the green of any tracks
that were left on the surface of the sand.

In Australia they use "sump oil" mixed with sand but lay down an impermeable
ground cloth beneath the new greens to protect the environment.

The whole of the site will be dry, there will be no grass anywhere,
so the tees and greens will be the western solution of sand
mixed with sump-oil over an impermeable base to prevent pollution of subsoils.
- Source:
Inside QUT, August 27-September 9, 1996 - p. 8).

Please keep us informed of what you find out and we'll add it to our
site for others!

A: (From T.L. of K.C.)
Sounds like you have been given the correct info on building the sand
greens. Yes, they do perform much better when oiled. It serves
several purposes: It retards runoff and erosion of the sand during downpours,
and more importantly, it keeps weeds from growing in the sand. Otherwise
you'll be fighting the encroaching grass/weed population. Environmental
concerns are an issue and you're well advised to consider them. Our greens
were constructed in the 1920's and had been oiled annually up until about
5 years ago. Their playability is not as good as it was when we oiled
them and we spend a lot of money on weed killer, which in my opinion has
it's own environmental impact.

I have no experience with the unpenetrable fabric under the sand, but
I've got to believe that it would not work completely. Some water, sand
& whatever is mixed in the sand will escape from the green. Our greens
were placed on top of hills so that there is usually a natural drainage
area. However the soil type is very important. Ours is heavy clay in some
areas which causes some unique drainage problems. We redressed the greens
a few years ago and dug 3-4 12" round and 6' deep holes in the greens
and filled with gravel to help with the drainage. Worked fine but will
eventually fill up with sand, etc. There is a commercial product that
you can spray on the ground that breaks down compact soils & clay. I think
it's called Enviromax. I've heard if you spray it on a farm pond it will
drain it.

Setting pins, cups & flags is another issue and can be expensive as
most golf suppliers provide cups/flags for grass greens. Someone in our
golf group has a source if you need one. I also encourage you to check
with your local property taxing authority to be sure you can maintain
your agricultural property status. Should the taxing authority
deem your project a recreational/golf course property - the
taxes might kill the dream. - T.L.