Bought maristar 225 v drive a couple months ago with cracked block. Had engine replaced with long block, it's an lt-1. Brought home, put new bilge pump, blower, fixed nav lights, and was pretty well set to go mechanically. Had a few dings in prop. Launched yesterday, was taking on a good amount of water, not from bilge plug but a steady stream from packing nut. I was pumping out probably a gallon/ hr. Pretty bad vibration on acceleration and high speed but not cruising. Brought back to marina today.....they said packing nut fixed, worked on prop and not vibrating on test drive. Picking up tomorrow. So.....
1. Wondering if I go new 4 blade what pitch etc to get for that boat, had oj prop on my Nautique and loved it.
2. If consensus is the prop would do that....I imagine so even though wasn't dinged too bad probably enough to cause issue.
3. Trans cable is wicked sticky...need to replace. anyone know what size it is off top of your head. If not can measure tomorrow and get from skidim.
4. Ant way to makes stearing more smooth? Seams thrust makes it pretty difficult to turn at higher speeds.
5. Are fellow maristar owners happy with the boat? Seams clunky compared to the 87 Nautique 2001 I just sold but interior space is awesome and ski wake doesn't seem to bad for the size boat.
Will be a project boat. I will post pics as we restore gel coat etc....

1. Call OJ and Acme and talk to them. They'll have great recommendations.
2. Prop could easily cause vibration - perhaps not from the dings, but it's entirely possible to have a bent blade that's not obvious on casual observation. Another possibility is an out-of-alignment drive system - out of the water, can you turn the prop with one hand?
3. Got no help for you here.
4. There are three things that could cause rough or difficult steering. In order of likelihood:
a. Steering cable. They get worn out and rusted internally, and there's no good recovery short of buying a new one. Pumping grease into the grease zerk at the end of the cable won't help.
b. Rudder box needs grease. There's a grease zerk on the rudder box, and a grease hole under the boat just above the rudder. Sometimes the grease hole gets plugged up, which prevents any grease from being able to be pumped into the rudder box. If this is the case, you'll need to pull the rudder out of the boat, clean up the old dried grease and the weep hole and replace the O-rings, grease it up and put it back together.
c. the helm - the mechanism behind the steering wheel where the steering cable attaches. Some people have had poor steering due to wear.
5. Yours is a different generation than mine. Can't help you with the feeling, though.

I have a 95 with the LT1. I feel like I have plenty of power and it handles excellent and smooth. I love it - for what we do: cruising, tubing, skiing.

I have the 3 blade, and does just fine. I think much of what you describe just means you still have some things yet to deal with - like what Frank describes above. I have no turning issues, and I would never describe my boat as "clunky".

Thanks guys....Just bought Acme CNC 13.5x 17.5 4 blade prop, 19ft trans cable and some exhaust hose to go just from muffler to outlets (5 inches each, hoping I don't have to remove outlets to replace those. I think there is enough play in exhaust hose off muffler to do it.

I am now concerned with raw water pump bracket. the guy I bought the boat from said that was his biggest complaint....pump coming loose. The marina that fixed the engine for me installed a new pump and bracket. They started losing the pump during their water test. They replaced bushing and put it back together and said was good. I think it vibrates alot and am concerned it will come off. I saw a post here on another Maristar project with an LT1 and it looked like there was a much sturdier bracket on that engine. Anyone have any ideas on that? Better bracket or am I worrying too much about that.