If you got 3.38* on 3 or less cyl. (Guide line) For timing corrections you are in good shape. As well as no throttle closures, TPS, should be 80.98, on WOT, any dips typically means overboost on OTS MAPs. Or you had traction control on.

That is a good guideline, I'll check tomorrow. I wouldn't worry too bad if it not ideal, let's check.first. COBB is pretty good as long as you met the.requirements.

I had been running the v301 maps (stage 2 aggressive) since I bought my cobb a few months ago, no problems whatsoever.
When v401 maps were released I of course upgraded and ran those. Within a few minutes I was getting misfires, for the first time.
So I went back to v301, same thing but less. Stock map was fine.
Changed the 1 coil (cyl 1) and have been running v301 for the last 3 months again without issues.
The other day I thought I'll give v401 another try and the same thing! (cyl 6)
Can s.o. please elaborate why v401 is making my misfires appear...?

I had been running the v301 maps (stage 2 aggressive) since I bought my cobb a few months ago, no problems whatsoever.
When v401 maps were released I of course upgraded and ran those. Within a few minutes I was getting misfires, for the first time.
So I went back to v301, same thing but less. Stock map was fine.
Changed the 1 coil (cyl 1) and have been running v301 for the last 3 months again without issues.
The other day I thought I'll give v401 another try and the same thing! (cyl 6)
Can s.o. please elaborate why v401 is making my misfires appear...?

I have a new Cobb Accessport coming for my 2010 E92. I have an emergency jump starter from Costco that is essentially a portable car battery that you connect to the terminals under the hood. I'm thinking of using this while I update the ECU with the Cobb for the first download ~20 minutes to make sure my battery doesn't run low.

Is there any problem in doing so, and can I leave the hood of the car up while Cobb is updating? Any problem with opening/closing the hood during update, or does it have to be left alone like the car door?

I have a new Cobb Accessport coming for my 2010 E92. I have an emergency jump starter from Costco that is essentially a portable car battery that you connect to the terminals under the hood. I'm thinking of using this while I update the ECU with the Cobb for the first download ~20 minutes to make sure my battery doesn't run low.

Is there any problem in doing so, and can I leave the hood of the car up while Cobb is updating? Any problem with opening/closing the hood during update, or does it have to be left alone like the car door?

Thanks-

I only do this only when installing the COBB. I place the charger on first, leave hood open. Then follow instruction as noted. Stay in the car and don't open the door. Hood open is fine.

When you are in the car, it would be difficult to close in the hood without opening the car door.

Folks,
Recently had my pre-warranty expiration done. Patiently waiting to re0install the Cobb and today was the day. Can anyone please review the logs for me? It's an 09 335 - 49k - it was about 34 degrees outside (cold). Any input appreciated. Thanks!!!
(Change file from zip to csv)

it didn't look too bad, but its best if you log in 3rd gear only. It was difficult for me to tell what gear you were in.

timing corrections looked ok, and timing/boost was where it should be for S1 Agg. IT appeared some throttle closures, but was hard to tell how you were going through your gears. you are AT correct? Did you have DTC on?

try this:

get in 3rd, stay around 2500 RPMs click log, wait a sec to ensure the COBB is logging. Go WOT, to redline. I go to 6400 RPMs then shift. either way is fine. If you want to log through 4th a bit you can.

I had been running the v301 maps (stage 2 aggressive) since I bought my cobb a few months ago, no problems whatsoever.
When v401 maps were released I of course upgraded and ran those. Within a few minutes I was getting misfires, for the first time.
So I went back to v301, same thing but less. Stock map was fine.
Changed the 1 coil (cyl 1) and have been running v301 for the last 3 months again without issues.
The other day I thought I'll give v401 another try and the same thing! (cyl 6)
Can s.o. please elaborate why v401 is making my misfires appear...?

I'm at 54k, downpipes, dci, PE exhaust...

THANKS

As enrita said, your sparks plugs may need to be changed. Most change after 20k miles on tuned cars.

Folks,
Recently had my pre-warranty expiration done. Patiently waiting to re0install the Cobb and today was the day. Can anyone please review the logs for me? It's an 09 335 - 49k - it was about 34 degrees outside (cold). Any input appreciated. Thanks!!!
(Change file from zip to csv)

it didn't look too bad, but its best if you log in 3rd gear only. It was difficult for me to tell what gear you were in.

timing corrections looked ok, and timing/boost was where it should be for S1 Agg. IT appeared some throttle closures, but was hard to tell how you were going through your gears. you are AT correct? Did you have DTC on?

try this:

get in 3rd, stay around 2500 RPMs click log, wait a sec to ensure the COBB is logging. Go WOT, to redline. I go to 6400 RPMs then shift. either way is fine. If you want to log through 4th a bit you can.

No it can't be the spark plugs I think since I changed them at 45k miles and I had the COBB for about 6k miles....I'm at 54k miles now

If you are having consistent misfires in #6 ONLY then swap the #6 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows. If it does follow then the coil is bad. If it doesn't fire then most likely it's either plug or injector.

__________________

"I'm not surprised you get along well with all the other neighbours. If you put fifty children with Down's syndrome in a room there is going to be a lot of hugging." David Thorne

Yes I know what you mean...BUT my issue was a different one.
When I first had a misfire in cyl 1 when running the newly updated v401, I put a new coil in and went back to v301 (cause I never had a problem with it for months). I gave it a try again this WE and almost immediately got a misfire in cyl 6. I will exchange the coil as well tmrw BUT I wanted to know why it could be that I start getting a misfire only after switching to the v401 maps?
Thanks...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ænema

If you are having consistent misfires in #6 ONLY then swap the #6 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows. If it does follow then the coil is bad. If it doesn't fire then most likely it's either plug or injector.

Yes I know what you mean...BUT my issue was a different one.
When I first had a misfire in cyl 1 when running the newly updated v401, I put a new coil in and went back to v301 (cause I never had a problem with it for months). I gave it a try again this WE and almost immediately got a misfire in cyl 6. I will exchange the coil as well tmrw BUT I wanted to know why it could be that I start getting a misfire only after switching to the v401 maps?
Thanks...

The 4.01 maps are slightly more aggressive than the 301 maps so it's possible that the extra stress pushed the coil/plug/injector over the edge. However, if that's the case then the coil/plug/injector was on it's way out anyway.

__________________

"I'm not surprised you get along well with all the other neighbours. If you put fifty children with Down's syndrome in a room there is going to be a lot of hugging." David Thorne

I had been running the v301 maps (stage 2 aggressive) since I bought my cobb a few months ago, no problems whatsoever.
When v401 maps were released I of course upgraded and ran those. Within a few minutes I was getting misfires, for the first time.
So I went back to v301, same thing but less. Stock map was fine.
Changed the 1 coil (cyl 1) and have been running v301 for the last 3 months again without issues.
The other day I thought I'll give v401 another try and the same thing! (cyl 6)
Can s.o. please elaborate why v401 is making my misfires appear...?

I'm at 54k, downpipes, dci, PE exhaust...

THANKS

Hi Jonny,

I had the same issue, my car and the OTS V4 ST maps don't agree with each other. V3 where ok and the Beta V4 where ok but once I re did the OTS V4 i had different issues on drive and sport map S1. Jerking like it wanted to misfire, strange gear shifts ect. Since changing to LT S1 sport no issues at all. run a pedal box as well when i need responsive throttle and i have clean pulls all the way to 7k where I used to get hesitations at 4k on each gear.

thats what i figured, well i will try some tonight, hard to find open empty road to WOT the car. How do i do this with auto? just floor it? or use paddle shifts? i got the DTC off but where is DSC? i only have DTC on my car.

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

You never went WOT (Wide Open Throttle). In order to see if your car is happy, you have to push the limit.

thats what i figured, well i will try some tonight, hard to find open empty road to WOT the car. How do i do this with auto? just floor it? or use paddle shifts? i got the DTC off but where is DSC? i only have DTC on my car.

Thanks

Haha, good ol autos. That's what I got. You have to improvise. Let me find my post I think it's a few pages back. You can't push the pedal to the metal because you will hit the kick down. Unless you do what I did.

Paddle or the manual shifter will work. Just put it in M3.

DSC, you have to hold down the DTC until you get the big triangle with a circle around it. Just a few seconds.

Be sure to have a safe stretch of road, flat. With stabilization and traction off, you must be careful., you'll reach close to 100 mph 3rd gear redline (about 90 in sport I think). But it only takes about 9 sec.

it didn't look too bad, but its best if you log in 3rd gear only. It was difficult for me to tell what gear you were in.

timing corrections looked ok, and timing/boost was where it should be for S1 Agg. IT appeared some throttle closures, but was hard to tell how you were going through your gears. you are AT correct? Did you have DTC on?

try this:

get in 3rd, stay around 2500 RPMs click log, wait a sec to ensure the COBB is logging. Go WOT, to redline. I go to 6400 RPMs then shift. either way is fine. If you want to log through 4th a bit you can.

I tried this but everytime I get into 3 and around 2500 RPM and hit the throttle , it downshifts to second (regardless of what shift I am selecting using the automanual sport mode. Every run was started in third and immediately shifted to second through WOT and then to third. Is there a way to prevent the car from downshifting, (I can try to squeeze the throttle instead of going WOT right away - but by the time I hit WOT I'll be at least at 4500 RPM or so to prevent downshifts) Attached are new logs ... any help appreciated. thanks!!

I tried this but everytime I get into 3 and around 2500 RPM and hit the throttle , it downshifts to second (regardless of what shift I am selecting using the automanual sport mode. Every run was started in third and immediately shifted to second through WOT and then to third. Is there a way to prevent the car from downshifting, (I can try to squeeze the throttle instead of going WOT right away - but by the time I hit WOT I'll be at least at 4500 RPM or so to prevent downshifts) Attached are new logs ... any help appreciated. thanks!!