Oil temperature higher and idle tick

Taken the car on its first decent run in years yesterday. Edinburgh to Plockton and then up to Applecross and back to Plockton.

If my memory correct I think the normal oil temp is around 90C.

At points on the Applecross Pass the oil was up at 120C and would be mainly around 100C.

Today I noticed on start up the car sounds a bit ticky at idle and low revs on start up. The car was hot and I had the door open.
I am sure under hard boost with the window down the turbo sounds a bit louder too.

I have had the car since 18k and it's almost on 99k now. Oil changed every 5k or year whichever comes first.
Coolant temp stayed at 90C but I know there is a lag on the gauge.
Belts and water pump are due at the end of this year as were done 4.5 years ago. Probably only 10k miles ago max.

The rise in oil temp would be from more heat energy in the oil possibly from increased internal frictions due to engine wear. The grade of oil has changed with lighter oils accepting heat more quickly than it can get rid of it meaning the overall temperature remains higher than before. Lastly the heat exchanger, the oil cooler has become furred or blocked up to a degree and can't exchange it's heat as readily to the coolant as it used to and so the oil temperature stays higher than previously. Ambient temperature and loading will also affect this heat exchanging process giving a less of temperature difference for the oil to exchange heat to. This can raise the average temperature level of the oil over a prolonged duration of operation.

Actually driving today I think the gauge sender is perhaps faulty. Jumped right up to 140C and I was like oh no. After a minute it fell straight down to 80C in one sweep. Seems to be moving around anywhere from 120C to 80c generally on flat routes.

The ticking seems to be at start up for maybe 5 seconds so will need to see what that is.
Thinking strainer, gasket leak or cam tensioner.

Ah cool. I was sure the oil normally sat around 90C. Just nursing the car home as off boost as possible to hopefully avoid as much damage as possible.
Not had an oil pressure light so pressure hopefully that is ok.
Car seems to tick on start up when cold and then when it's been really hot.
Will get it checked out during the week hopefully.
Think I will check the turbo shaft, oil strainer and scan the car.

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Well oil light eventually came on for a second. Pulled in and waiting for a flatbed to take the car to a garage near me.
Hopefully not too much damage has been done!
Engine was ticking louder but not as bad as the ones I have heard on YouTube.

If you stopped immediately it'll probably be fine. When i killed my track car engine it beeped two or three times and i kept stopping and then going back out. I had no oil pressure guage and stupidly assumed it was a faulty sensor as i'd replaced the pump already. Third time i got bored of stopping and kept going when the warning came on. A lap later it siezed. Turned out, some hard carbon debris had become detatched from the inside of the engine and made its way into the sump, where it gathered up in the pickup gauze. Despite it siezing, i swapped the turbo onto the replacement engine and it worked fine.

Also, fit a new oil pump, dont just mess with cleaning the strainer. Its such an **** to get into on the B5, its not worth doing half a job.

The turbo wouldnt magically bring on the oil light. Theres without doubt an oil pressure issue, and that means replacing the pump. Theres no point just doing the strainer on a B5. Its a complete **** getting the sump off unlike a transverse engine, so when your in there just do it properly. You also cant buy the strainer on its own for a B5, it comes with the pump.

And its almost always fine when cold. The oils thick and pressure comes up just fine. Half a litre of oil wouldnt matter at all, i've run mine down off the dipstick before with no issues. Even my siezed engine unsiezed itself and ran completely normally when cold. No noises or rattles, if i hadnt known better i'd have thaught it was fine. I fitted an oil pressure guage and while the oil pressure was perfect when cold, once it warmed up the pressure dropped off, and started acting very oddly. Took the sump off and one of the big ends had spun.

So the car was washed and stuck in the garage under a cover, where it sat until 4 weeks ago. I decided I would drain the oil and replace with some fresh stuff and new filter. I always though I used the longer filters but got a transporter one. Gosh those are huge.

I pulled out the oil pressure switch from the oil filter housing and plumbed in a pressure gauge.

I was wanting to see how the oil pressure was as I found it hard to believe my pick up was blocked as the car is serviced every year and was doing under 5k miles a year. Plus it was too big a job for me to do in my garage so though this would rule the pick up being blocked out.

Tested the pressure it at 1k increments and compared my figures to the numbers on various forums.

My figures were at the top of each rev range.

The next weekend I drained the oil and coolant pulled out the airbox, turbo, manifold, intercooler plus all the turbo pipes/hoses.

I was wanting to see if the oil feed was blocked at all but I blew through it and it seems totally clear. I used some brake cleaner to clean it as well. I planned on replacing this but think I will just use an airline to fully blast through it. I also cleaned out the intercooler as it looked to have a little oil in it but not a huge amount.

I bought a lot of T bolt clamps for when I refit the intercooler as the jubilee clips were pretty tired looking and I had wanted to replace them for years.

The turbo shaft had a fair bit of play that I could feel and there were a few cracks in the cast housing but nothing right through.

Plan is now to replace the turbo, all the gaskets and see how the car is. Belts etc are now due too so will get those done at the same time since the bumper is already off.

When I started the car to test the pressure the car was sounding good and it was running for about 40 minutes with no issues other than a bit of smoke which I think will be the turbo on its way out. Mainly on short rev ups and downs.

Only thing I can think has happened is the oil level has gone too low through the turbo seals being past their best.

I have ordered most of the parts I need other than the water pump/belt kit and a turbo plus exhaust/manifold gaskets.

However the BEX compressor inlet (K03-73) looks to be a tiny but bigger than the K03-005 so the adaptor plate doesnt seem to fit. It was snug on the K03-005 and the K04-15 I had fitted years ago but went on. I measured the inlet and it 45mm on the BEX K03-73 and 44mm on the K03-005.

The other thing is the adaptor retaining holes that bolt the adaptor are lightly further out on the BEX K03-73 than on the K04-15 and K03-005.

I am thinking of getting either just a new silicone TIP or getting the adaptor machined slightly so I can fit it.

I have asked some of the B6 guys if they have ever seen anything like this as the BEX turbo is from that platform.

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