Well first off lets use some more realistic numbers for an intake. Air modification, particularly intakes screw with the MAF calibration. In closed loop its not really an issue because the ECU creates fuel trims to compensate however, when in OL the ECU ignores the fuel trims and fuels totally based of the mass air reading from the MAF. If the MAF isn't calibrated correctly the engine doesn't hit its targeted A:F. In some cars it can be a big issues and cause CEL's, in others its not that big of a deal. I prefer to provide the ECU with the correct information to fuel the engine appropriately. When you start compounding modification without making any adjustments to the tune, you start compounding the fueling errors etc.

Right and wrong at the same time... What if I tell you im running 14.5-15.2 during load tests on a dyno? Car is still running exactly how it should. Now only if this dyno wasnt for emissions testing and was for dynoeing cars I would tell you more. But full load im at 12.5-12.7 which is right where it should be if not a little rich.

I think the car is running just fine.

EDIT: On God No LOL 30+ from full race exhaust and intake without a tune.

Right and wrong at the same time... What if I tell you im running 14.5-15.2 during load tests on a dyno? Car is still running exactly how it should. Now only if this dyno wasnt for emissions testing and was for dynoeing cars I would tell you more. But full load im at 12.5-12.7 which is right where it should be if not a little rich.

I think the car is running just fine.

Can you point out exactly where i've went wrong?

I'm not to sure where you are going with the rest of the post. You can tell me anything you want however, I have no idea what kind of setup your running or what your tuning goals are...

Wrong as in some cars may not do well with mods and no tuning but the focus seems to do alright duratec or not the gains are there.

The focuses Air fuel ratios from the factory have adjusted to factory levels even with the mods.

That's why I said...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSR84

In some cars it can be a big issues and cause CEL's, in others its not that big of a deal.

All I'm trying to say here is if you plan on modding source tuning options. Tuning helps you extract more power from the mods you do, and helps your engine to run at peak efficiency. Do I expect everyone to think of tuning first? No, but since I clearly hold tuning in a higher regard, I look for tuning options before anything else. Call me crazy.

All I'm trying to say here is if you plan on modding source tuning options. Tuning helps you extract more power from the mods you do, and helps your engine to run at peak efficiency. Do I expect everyone to think of tuning first? No, but since I clearly hold tuning in a higher regard, I look for tuning options before anything else. Call me crazy.

The problem is that there are no tuning options now and there are bolt on options.

Use 2 Mufflers with this setup and the sound will make you want to make accident in your pants from excitement.

2.5" in/out 6" round
2.5" in/dual out Traverse mount

Yes. That muffler.

Borla's cat back is a 2.25 in system, and the muff that comes with it has a short length of pipe welded to it. So, if I sub in the universal muff; I'll have to have a short length of pipe welded on, with a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer at the end of it, to tie it into the cat back system. Trying to figure out how to get around having a left over Borla muffler though............probably just advert it here and on E Bay.......let someone else have it at a reduced price. That FSWorks header would be nice I'm thinking!

Gotta find a good shop in my area now (when I get back in the States). Vroom! Vroom!

PS: If it explodes and spreads flaming debris all over..........I'll get pics and post'em!

Borla's cat back is a 2.25 in system, and the muff that comes with it has a short length of pipe welded to it. So, if I sub in the universal muff; I'll have to have a short length of pipe welded on, with a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer at the end of it, to tie it into the cat back system. Trying to figure out how to get around having a left over Borla muffler though............probably just advert it here and on E Bay.......let someone else have it at a reduced price. That FSWorks header would be nice I'm thinking!

Gotta find a good shop in my area now (when I get back in the States). Vroom! Vroom!

PS: If it explodes and spreads flaming debris all over..........I'll get pics and post'em!

why not go full custom borla? probably would be about the same cost as buying an extra part and having an extra muffler.

still no check engine light and heres my theory... The Cats o2 sensor is put in one of the banks of the pipe and not reading all 4 so it doesnt show enough to make it go off. Or maybe the car just burns that clean.

It is direct injection and has a cleaner (more efficient/complete burn) as you likely know...but I think the first guess is correct, or at least a part of it. If it were really burning that clean without a cat they would have saved the money and just deleted it for you.

It is direct injection and has a cleaner (more efficient/complete burn) as you likely know...but I think the first guess is correct, or at least a part of it. If it were really burning that clean without a cat they would have saved the money and just deleted it for you.

Nice work here FB, glad to have the info!

I can't prove it, but others that have done tuning can. Cat is pretty much only needed for cold starts, once engine gets up to temp. it runs as clean as it's going to get unless there is a problem.

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