Ask Crystal Lucas to name her favorite example of "Cajun" cuisine and her eyes light up.

"I like my gumbo," she says. "No, I LOVE my gumbo."

Gumbo, jambalaya, and shrimp or crawfish etouffe are among the Louisiana classics on the menu at Lucas' new Papa Joe's Cajun & Soule Cuisine, which opened at 305 Burnet Ave. in Syracuse last week. (It's the spot occupied by Gentile's Restaurant before it moved to 313 N. Geddes St. in 2012.)

The soul side of the menu is represented by such dishes as Fried Chicken, Pork Ribs and Smothered Pork Steaks.

Lucas grew up in Syracuse, but learned the art of Cajun cuisine from her late father, Albert Joseph Brandon, a native of Baton Rouge, La. He's the "Papa Joe" of the restaurant's name.

Papa Joe, who came north to work at New Process Gear, cooked Louisiana food at home. He had done a lot of fishing down South, Lucas said, so he knew how to cook and eat seafood.

Getting quality seafood -- like Gulf shrimp or crawfish -- is one of the big obstacles to cooking Louisiana-style in Syracuse, Lucas said.

But she said she's dealing with Lorenzo Wholesale Foods, a local distributor who specializes in seafood and has been able to find what she wants.

She has two version of gumbo -- Seafood Gumbo with sausage, shrimp, crawfish and crab claws and Chicken & Andouille Sausage Gumbo, with andouille she buys from Green Hills Farm Market.

The restaurant slogan is "Come and Bring Your Appetite." Portions are large.

Lucas has no previous restaurant experience but cooked at home for family. "And this is a big family," she said.

Lucas remembers when Syracuse had several good soul food places, including Ben's Kitchen and Davis Family Restaurant, both on South Salina Street.

"There's definitely a soul food tradition in Syracuse," she said.

Lucas and her daughter looked around for locations for a while, and found the old Gentile's location, which they liked because it didn't need a lot of renovation.

The restaurant is laid out exactly as it was when Gentile's was there, with a row of booths in the space with the bar and a second dining room to the left. Lucas is awaiting her wine and beer license, which she expects to receive in a few weeks.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 9:30 p.m,. Tuesday to Friday; 4 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday and 1 to 7 p.m. Sunday. They also do takeout business. Call 218-5070.