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After inadvertently calibrating the AV input on my Samsung LN32B640 today, I was able to get back to "AV Calibration Success" again by doing the following:

I compared my ADC Result values after the failue to akakitsu's values in the picture he posted above (he had not messed with the AV Input calibration). Mine were all similar (all within 1 of his) except the first two. My 1st_Y_GH was 255 and 1st_Y_GL was 163 whereas his were 1st_Y_GH = 249, and 1st_Y_GH = 245. I changed those to match his.

Next, I download a 8x8 checkerboard grid that was linked from the link in JQ3's post above. I inverted it so a black checker box was in the top left corner and made the image 1920x1080. I then copied the picture to my PS3 and connected the PS3 up to the TV using the AV1 input.

I then used the PS3 to display the checkerboard and went into the TV's service menu. One issue was that the PS3 was not displaying the image full screen. The 1920 x 1080 image was being displayed with black bars across the top and bottom. Tried to calibrate and got 'failure'. So, I zoomed in using the analog hat until the top of the image met the top of the TV. This cut off both the left and right edges of the left and rightmost columns of boxes (about 3/4'ths cut off). However, I tried calibrating again and got 'success' even with the edges cut off.

I checked the ADC Results again and the only thing that changed was the 1st_Y_GH changed from 255 to 253. 1st_Y_GL remained unchanged at 245. And, by playing around with that value I can see that the original failed calibration setting of 163 is the culprit as to why everything gets so dark after a failed AV input calibration.

TO ANYONE WHO IS THINKING ABOUT CALIBRATING (OR WHO HAS SCREWED IT UP ALREADY):

I made the same STUPID, STUPID mistake of going in to the service screen because I simply wanted to check how many hours we've used our TV in the past 2 1/2 years. Well, this was by far, the DUMBEST THING I've ever done with an electronic piece of equipment. I was even forewarned that accessing the SERVICE menu could cause irreparable damage, and I was still cocky enough to believe that I knew what I was doing (even though I am very technologically savvy).

Let me be clear... UNLESS YOU ARE A TRAINED, CERTIFIED, EXPERIENCED TV PROGRAMMER, OR REPAIR TECHNICIAN, DO NOT SCREW AROUND IN THE SERVICE SCREEN!!! Save yourself hours of issues (and potentially a permanently busted TV)!

So what happened, is that I accidentally hit the "CALIBRATE" button (as it is the first option on the SERVICE SCREEN). The remote isn't user friendly when it comes to using the service screen - the buttons you use, don't match up to the "flow" on the TV. The TV started calibrating a frozen image from the show "COPS". I didn't know how to stop it, and didn't understand that it was completely screwing it up, until after it finished calibrating.

Anyway, my wife and I just finished spending over 10 hours working on fixing the TV since last night - and thank goodness she's one hell of a GOOGLER. Even though I found this website last night with info about the fix, it took digging further to help find the correct calibration image to fix the issue.

HERE'S THE STORY:

I have a Samsung LCD LNT-4661F, built in early 2007. Last night, after reading about the checkerboard fix, I gave it a try - NO SUCCESS.

BUT, in the end, a different way of using the checkerboard DID work, so read on (if you've made the same mistake and still need help).

As it turns out, you have to have the checkerboard image the exact same resolution of your TV. Mine was 1920x1080. I used an 8 x 8 Black & White checkerboard image, using my PS3 (using the "VIEW PHOTO" feature).

When using the checkerboard image (or any other calibrating image), MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OTHER "INFO" ON THE SCREEN (such as the little menus that show "next" or "back" or other random information). The image MUST BE completely isolated, with nothing but the full-screen 8x8 B&W checkerboard, with a native resolution equal to your TV.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO NEED THE 1920x1080 8x8, I've linked to it from my PHOTOBUCKET account, because I know how frustrating and tough it was to find it!

DOWNLOAD THE 8X8 BLACK & WHITE 1920 x 1080 HERE:

Where I first went wrong (using the checkerboard fix) is that I wasn't using the proper image resolution (and I think it was also associated with two, very fine lines on the left and top of the image that showed on the screen, since I was using my wife's computer with HDMI output). Point is, it wasn't isolated and the resolution wasn't correct.

Once you have confirmed you have the correct image and it is loaded FULL SCREEN somehow (PS2 / PS3 / DVD / COMPUTER, any HDMI input), carefully re-run the CALIBRATION from the service screen. Don't touch any other settings in the service screen, just the HDMI calibration! Give the calibration about 1-2 minutes to run, and then turn the TV off for at least 60 seconds. The calibration that FIXED my TV only took about 30 seconds to run. PREVIOUSLY, when I tried calibrating using different images (THX image from a DVD), and the image with the incorrect resolution, it took 5 or more minutes. If it takes that long, it's likely not calibrating correctly.

Now, I still have an issue with the CONTRAST... When I change the contrast from the main menu up and down, each "value" (between 1-100) GREATLY increases or decreases the contrast. And it "cycles", as in, a setting of 98 looks normal, but if you set it down to 93, it is nearly BLACK. But, when I go down one more to 92 it is back to SUPER bright (too bright), and so-on. It does this over and over again, every 5 or 6 values, from 1-100.

This seems to be the only issue we still have after fixing it. I think it's about 99.9% of where it was before I got completely moronic and screwed with the SERVICE SCREEN...

So, let me say it again... I highly recommend that even the "TECH SAVVY" folks NEVER play with the SERVICE SCREEN unless you absolutely know what you're doing. In fact, unless you are soqualified, that you can actually modify the settings with your eyes closed, I'd say never screw with it. I mean, I consider myself incredibly tech savvy... I build computers, component by component, install and configure massive home audio surround sound systems, can disassemble and reassemble a car, just about everything; but the first and only thing I've run into that I could NOT wrap my mind around was this calibration issue!

Everyone else who's made this same mistake knows how sickening the feeling is, believing that you may have just trashed your $3,000 TV... Trust me - it's not worth playing around with; just don't mess with it!

On another note... Thanks to everyone for their help on these forums. I'd be crying myself to sleep every night had I not come across this forum, which helped me put the pieces together on how to fix it!

-Matt & Wife!

Same stupid fool here.
Thank you very much for this tut. After 2 hours callibration i finaly saw your tutorial. I took the the first link, streamed it to my ps3 and started the calibration on my Samsung plasma PN42A410. It took 3 seconds to the succes.
I fixed the contrast as well, even better than before, lol

Ok I am in a similar situation but with a twist. I just got a new Slim PS3 250 GB for xmas and I hooked it up to my LNT 4065F which is about 2 years old with roughly 500 hrs of viewing. When I was hooking it up I noticed that the screen started to show static snow pixels and then finally it was all vertical lines no matter which mode I was in. PC or Cable or HDMI 1.2.3.. I came across this thread and was able to re calibrate my set with the 8x8 check image. Once the set it calibrated I am noticing that the image is a little dark and hence the TV menu instead of showing up in blue comes up as dark blue. Watching a Bluray on the PS3 the picture seems very dark.

Here is the strange part that for some reason when I calibrated it the last time everything was good the menu's that show up were coming up correctly. The Bluray was also playing fine and then within 5 minutes everything goes dark again and now even though I calibrate again and again I do not get it to look like it was originally.

This is an alternative for people with newer LCD/LED TVs. I have the 950 samsung and it worked. Quoted from the original author on this idea. Invert the checkerboard.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTTiger View Post
OK, I was actually able to fix this myself, believe it or not. The trick was inverting a 1920x1080 version of the checkerboard so that the upper-left square was black, rather than white. So, for anyone who makes this same blunder, and has a B750, this should work.

All i had to change was the 1st_Y_GL of COMP to your value and all works as it should now! Once again, thank you for your help.

Hi
i've have the same model of your tv LE32B650T2P i ask u if u can post here a picture of your values of white balance ( service menu ADC/WB WHITE BALANCE) because i wanna see if they are thesame. it seems are the same for every source (ext 1 pc etc...)

Did the same mistake of going to the Service menu HDMI calibration menu and, it calibrated with a moving picture in background resulting a horrow setting. I was able to fix the problem to some extent using methods given by people with similar problems. The most important one was the contrast going haywire, which was because of weird numbers in RGain, Bgain, Ggain, which I got down manually to 274 and now it solved the problem. Wish I can get more screen shots of the service menu for LN-T5265F, so I can fine tune it and do a better picture calibration. Please, always take screen shots before you do any changes to the Service menu options, will sure come in handy if you mess up later, learnt the hard way. If anyone has LN-T5265 service menu settings, I would really appreciate, if they could share them here, it would be a blessing to have them. Thanks to the person who shared the screen settings in the TV.zip file, it was a saviour, though it was not the same model # as mine.
Sharuc

I was thinking of using samsung's service menu to see if I could force JustScan instead of 16x9 on source change. But after reading this thread I got a little scared

But then again, it got me wondering. Wouldn't hitting factory reset on service menu correct all the issues of incorrect calibration??

The way I understand it, the same chassis is often used for different models. EG - different tuners for different regions, Scart for some countries, RCA's for others etc.. So, the point is, the reset will just reset the chassis to it's default, not the default of the actual TV model - thus, you may actually make it worse...

The way I understand it, the same chassis is often used for different models. EG - different tuners for different regions, Scart for some countries, RCA's for others etc.. So, the point is, the reset will just reset the chassis to it's default, not the default of the actual TV model - thus, you may actually make it worse...

Z...

And how about firmware update?

Btw, I sugest reseting to factory defaults because I accidently do that to my TV :P (first option in srvs menu ... right button is commit....) and I didn't notice anything diferent besides having to configure everything again..... I really mean everything......

Btw, I sugest reseting to factory defaults because I accidently do that to my TV :P (first option in srvs menu ... right button is commit....) and I didn't notice anything diferent besides having to configure everything again..... I really mean everything......

I have confirmed that the 'Factory Reset' under 'Option' in the SM is only a user reset. It's identical to holding 'Exit' in the user menu for 5 seconds.

The EEPROM Reset is the dangerous one which likely resets the SM to the defaults for the current firmware version loaded. It's dangerous because the factory defaults that get applied will undo any calibration performed at the factory resulting in a set that is far from calibrated (and possibly bricked) until the factory calibration is redone by a service tech.

I have confirmed that the 'Factory Reset' under 'Option' in the SM is only a user reset. It's identical to holding 'Exit' in the user menu for 5 seconds.

The EEPROM Reset is the dangerous one which likely resets the SM to the defaults for the current firmware version loaded. It's dangerous because the factory defaults that get applied will undo any calibration performed at the factory resulting in a set that is far from calibrated (and possibly bricked) until the factory calibration is redone by a service tech.

Thanks for the clarification
btw, do you know if its possible what I want to acomplish, that is, force fullscan (or justscan as samsung calls it) on source input change?

I have a month old Samsung UN40b600/6000 and was just trying to turn off the annoying CE Dimming settings. At the time I had a DVD being upconverted that I used for a dimming test, and the TV was tuned to that HD DVD player's HDMI3 input port. HDMI2 had a DVR Cable box connected to it, but the TV wasn't tuned to HDMI2 (of course since it was tuned to HDMI3). The PC and Component inputs had cables but with nothing connected to them on the other end. HDMI1 had nothing at all attached to it.

After going into the Service Menu for CE Dimming, other threads mentioned to scroll down to get to CE Dimming (after doing Advanced / 0000). That would have been fine, but CE Dimming was actually in the second column and I did not realize at the time that the scroll down eventually wrapped to the second column. Somewhere along the line I arrowed into an option which said "HDMI Calibrate" instead and saw the word "ON" next to it. I knew I was in trouble and tried everything to get out with arrows to no avail, so in desperation hit the remote's power button. Even that took a awhile, but the TV eventually turned off and I never saw a word like "Success" or "Failure". I then immediately went back into the Service Menu and at least successfully tuned off the CE/Auto Dimming. But now, I am wondering (well more like worried) about if maybe I messed up any HDMI or Component ports? The HD DVD player momentarily complained that it was going to 420P (as it might when trying to upconvert to component cable), but that was temporary, and in fact I later put in a HD DVD disk in and the TV seemed to display it fine at full resolution. (The BDWise Samsung Blue ray is in the other room, and moves between rooms, but I haven't brought that in for a try yet.)

Some questions please:

1) When I had arrowed over to HDMI Calibrate and saw the word "ON", was it then indeed trying to Calibrate?

2) Could it be that the power down I did of the TV (that took a while to take), while in the Service Menu, been what stopped the process before any damage was done?

3) If I become brave enough to go back into the service menu again, exactly how do I get to this place that would say if what happened resulted in the "Success" or "Failure" values people have been talking about, without it trying to Calibrate HDMI automatically again? Where is the word "ON" verses "Success" or "Failure"? Were these three various menu values/locations, before or after I did "Advanced 0000" ?

4) When I had accidentally arrowed over to "HDMI Calibrate - ON", I did not hit Enter on the remote. Did that maybe save me, or is an Enter irrelevant after being to the "ON"?

5) So far, the TV seems fine. If the Calibrate was indeed a Failure, just what would the symptoms be? Would such Fail symptoms be on just some, or would it be on all, HDMI (and/or Component) inputs? Could a Fail ever be subtle symptom(s), or would it always be very noticeable such that I would surely know by now? (Code for, any chance that my wife will know something is wrong just by using the TV, if I don't tell her the full details about this other than my nice removal of the Auto Dimming (which, in reality, I was the only one complaining about that in the first place.)? )

Thanks for the clarification
btw, do you know if its possible what I want to acomplish, that is, force fullscan (or justscan as samsung calls it) on source input change?

Screen Fit (or Just Scan) works for 1080i sources on TV input (ant in), 720p and 1080i/p for HDMI and 1080i for Component on my LN32B650. This setting is only in the user menu, not the service menu. You can't force this setting if it's not availabe among the P. Size options (i.e. greyed out). It will always work with 1080i/p on any input type, but on my TV only HDMI offers the option for 720p.

I have a month old Samsung UN40b600/6000 and was just trying to turn off the annoying CE Dimming settings. At the time I had a DVD being upconverted that I used for a dimming test, and the TV was tuned to that HD DVD player's HDMI3 input port. HDMI2 had a DVR Cable box connected to it, but the TV wasn't tuned to HDMI2 (of course since it was tuned to HDMI3). The PC and Component inputs had cables but with nothing connected to them on the other end. HDMI1 had nothing at all attached to it.

After going into the Service Menu for CE Dimming, other threads mentioned to scroll down to get to CE Dimming (after doing Advanced / 0000). That would have been fine, but CE Dimming was actually in the second column and I did not realize at the time that the scroll down eventually wrapped to the second column. Somewhere along the line I arrowed into an option which said "HDMI Calibrate" instead and saw the word "ON" next to it. I knew I was in trouble and tried everything to get out with arrows to no avail, so in desperation hit the remote's power button. Even that took a awhile, but the TV eventually turned off and I never saw a word like "Success" or "Failure". I then immediately went back into the Service Menu and at least successfully tuned off the CE/Auto Dimming. But now, I am wondering (well more like worried) about if maybe I messed up any HDMI or Component ports? The HD DVD player momentarily complained that it was going to 420P (as it might when trying to upconvert to component cable), but that was temporary, and in fact I later put in a HD DVD disk in and the TV seemed to display it fine at full resolution. (The BDWise Samsung Blue ray is in the other room, and moves between rooms, but I haven't brought that in for a try yet.)

Some questions please:

1) When I had arrowed over to HDMI Calibrate and saw the word "ON", was it then indeed trying to Calibrate?

2) Could it be that the power down I did of the TV (that took a while to take), while in the Service Menu, been what stopped the process before any damage was done?

3) If I become brave enough to go back into the service menu again, exactly how do I get to this place that would say if what happened resulted in the "Success" or "Failure" values people have been talking about, without it trying to Calibrate HDMI automatically again? Where is the word "ON" verses "Success" or "Failure"? Were these three various menu values/locations, before or after I did "Advanced 0000" ?

4) When I had accidentally arrowed over to "HDMI Calibrate - ON", I did not hit Enter on the remote. Did that maybe save me, or is an Enter irrelevant after being to the "ON"?

5) So far, the TV seems fine. If the Calibrate was indeed a Failure, just what would the symptoms be? Would such Fail symptoms be on just some, or would it be on all, HDMI (and/or Component) inputs? Could a Fail ever be subtle symptom(s), or would it always be very noticeable such that I would surely know by now? (Code for, any chance that my wife will know something is wrong just by using the TV, if I don't tell her the full details about this other than my nice removal of the Auto Dimming (which, in reality, I was the only one complaining about that in the first place.)? )

Thanks,
Mark

Under "ADC/WB", "ADC", "HDMI Calibration" will read "Success" or "Failure."

The 'HDMI Calibrate' (ON) setting must be something else. In any case, you can verify whether the ADC Calibration for HDMI is a "Success" or "Failure." Before you do anything else in the service menu, read the following tips for navigating the service menu more safely:

1. Only the up and down arrow keys can be used to select an item in the current menu or sub menu. Left and right arrow keys will either act as enter keys or modify the value for the chosen parameter.

2. Menu is a back button, enter is also an enter button (no surprise here), and source cycles through the active sources.

3. Before you change any settings, write down the initial values for those settings. This way you can manually reset the values should you need to. There is no other way to recover defaults in the service menu should you need to.

Under "ADC/WB", "ADC", "HDMI Calibration" will read "Success" or "Failure."

The 'HDMI Calibrate' (ON) setting must be something else. In any case, you can verify whether the ADC Calibration for HDMI is a "Success" or "Failure." Before you do anything else in the service menu, read the following tips for navigating the service menu more safely:

1. Only the up and down arrow keys can be used to select an item in the current menu or sub menu. Left and right arrow keys will either act as enter keys or modify the value for the chosen parameter.

2. Menu is a back button, enter is also an enter button (no surprise here), and source cycles through the active sources.

3. Before you change any settings, write down the initial values for those settings. This way you can manually reset the values should you need to. There is no other way to recover defaults in the service menu should you need to.

Thanks PlasmaPZ80U. If I am understanding you correctly, then "ADC/WB", "ADC", "HDMI Calibration" is where I can determine the Success or Failure of the last time (if indeed I had accidentally done a HDMI Calibrate last time). Is this the same place one would do an HDMI Calibrate? If not, where is the location in the Service Menu where one would do an HDMI Calibrate? (Not that I want to go do that, again. I am just trying to figure out exactly where I need to stay away from, if I do go back in to check the status.)

Thanks PlasmaPZ80U. If I am understanding you correctly, then "ADC/WB", "ADC", "HDMI Calibration" is where I can determine the Success or Failure of the last time (if indeed I had accidentally done a HDMI Calibrate last time). Is this the same place one would do an HDMI Calibrate? If not, where is the location in the Service Menu where one would do an HDMI Calibrate? (Not that I want to go do that, again. I am just trying to figure out exactly where I need to stay away from, if I do go back in to check the status.)

Just select ADC/WB from the main menu and then select ADC. If you're on a HDMI input, HDMI Calibration should be highlighted and will say "Success" or "Failure." If it says "Success," just press Menu twice to go back to the main menu and then power off the TV. If it says "Failure," you'll need to follow the advice in this thread to recalibrate to a "Success".

i too have messed up my PQ with this hdmi error, can anyone help me get it back to normal? i own a b650 plasma.

The easiest way to fix it is with the HDMI "ADC Result" values from someone else who owns a PNxxB650 (check the Plasma forum for the thread for the B650 Plasma). The HDMI settings are generally identical for all B650 Plasmas (at least this was true for the B650 LCDs, which I own a 32" model of).

Hello,
I have just bought the brande new LCD UE40D6500 (France) and messed up with the hdmi calibration while trying to find a way to activate the IR module for the 3D glasses (2011 model only work with serie 3 bluetooth glasses).
I have found out that all the calibration pattern are already in the service menu. You just need to go to SVC/Test Pattern / HDI W/B Pattern : ON / HDMI Pattern set : 7. For my TV, the square in the upper left corner needed to be white.
Also found the menu to activate the IR module to use my SSG 2100 glasses :
SVC / IR_ON_OFF : ON.
If it can help.
Bye.

TO ANYONE WHO IS THINKING ABOUT CALIBRATING (OR WHO HAS SCREWED IT UP ALREADY):

I made the same STUPID, STUPID mistake of going in to the service screen because I simply wanted to check how many hours we've used our TV in the past 2 1/2 years. Well, this was by far, the DUMBEST THING I've ever done with an electronic piece of equipment. I was even forewarned that accessing the SERVICE menu could cause irreparable damage, and I was still cocky enough to believe that I knew what I was doing (even though I am very technologically savvy).

Let me be clear... UNLESS YOU ARE A TRAINED, CERTIFIED, EXPERIENCED TV PROGRAMMER, OR REPAIR TECHNICIAN, DO NOT SCREW AROUND IN THE SERVICE SCREEN!!! Save yourself hours of issues (and potentially a permanently busted TV)!

So what happened, is that I accidentally hit the "CALIBRATE" button (as it is the first option on the SERVICE SCREEN). The remote isn't user friendly when it comes to using the service screen - the buttons you use, don't match up to the "flow" on the TV. The TV started calibrating a frozen image from the show "COPS". I didn't know how to stop it, and didn't understand that it was completely screwing it up, until after it finished calibrating.

Anyway, my wife and I just finished spending over 10 hours working on fixing the TV since last night - and thank goodness she's one hell of a GOOGLER. Even though I found this website last night with info about the fix, it took digging further to help find the correct calibration image to fix the issue.

HERE'S THE STORY:

I have a Samsung LCD LNT-4661F, built in early 2007. Last night, after reading about the checkerboard fix, I gave it a try - NO SUCCESS.

BUT, in the end, a different way of using the checkerboard DID work, so read on (if you've made the same mistake and still need help).

As it turns out, you have to have the checkerboard image the exact same resolution of your TV. Mine was 1920x1080. I used an 8 x 8 Black & White checkerboard image, using my PS3 (using the "VIEW PHOTO" feature).

When using the checkerboard image (or any other calibrating image), MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OTHER "INFO" ON THE SCREEN (such as the little menus that show "next" or "back" or other random information). The image MUST BE completely isolated, with nothing but the full-screen 8x8 B&W checkerboard, with a native resolution equal to your TV.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO NEED THE 1920x1080 8x8, I've linked to it from my PHOTOBUCKET account, because I know how frustrating and tough it was to find it!

DOWNLOAD THE 8X8 BLACK & WHITE 1920 x 1080 HERE:

Where I first went wrong (using the checkerboard fix) is that I wasn't using the proper image resolution (and I think it was also associated with two, very fine lines on the left and top of the image that showed on the screen, since I was using my wife's computer with HDMI output). Point is, it wasn't isolated and the resolution wasn't correct.

Once you have confirmed you have the correct image and it is loaded FULL SCREEN somehow (PS2 / PS3 / DVD / COMPUTER, any HDMI input), carefully re-run the CALIBRATION from the service screen. Don't touch any other settings in the service screen, just the HDMI calibration! Give the calibration about 1-2 minutes to run, and then turn the TV off for at least 60 seconds. The calibration that FIXED my TV only took about 30 seconds to run. PREVIOUSLY, when I tried calibrating using different images (THX image from a DVD), and the image with the incorrect resolution, it took 5 or more minutes. If it takes that long, it's likely not calibrating correctly.

Now, I still have an issue with the CONTRAST... When I change the contrast from the main menu up and down, each "value" (between 1-100) GREATLY increases or decreases the contrast. And it "cycles", as in, a setting of 98 looks normal, but if you set it down to 93, it is nearly BLACK. But, when I go down one more to 92 it is back to SUPER bright (too bright), and so-on. It does this over and over again, every 5 or 6 values, from 1-100.

This seems to be the only issue we still have after fixing it. I think it's about 99.9% of where it was before I got completely moronic and screwed with the SERVICE SCREEN...

So, let me say it again... I highly recommend that even the "TECH SAVVY" folks NEVER play with the SERVICE SCREEN unless you absolutely know what you're doing. In fact, unless you are soqualified, that you can actually modify the settings with your eyes closed, I'd say never screw with it. I mean, I consider myself incredibly tech savvy... I build computers, component by component, install and configure massive home audio surround sound systems, can disassemble and reassemble a car, just about everything; but the first and only thing I've run into that I could NOT wrap my mind around was this calibration issue!

Everyone else who's made this same mistake knows how sickening the feeling is, believing that you may have just trashed your $3,000 TV... Trust me - it's not worth playing around with; just don't mess with it!

On another note... Thanks to everyone for their help on these forums. I'd be crying myself to sleep every night had I not come across this forum, which helped me put the pieces together on how to fix it!

-Matt & Wife!

i know this thread is very old and i'm probably gonna get modded or something for posting this, but i just have to say that i had this problem and this same model of tv and this post completely fixed the problem i moronically caused myself. so matt & wife, if you happen to still come to these forums and see this post, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!

Wish I saw this thread earlier. Last night I accidentally went into HDMI Calibration and messed up my Samsung LN-T5281F. I hooked up my PC and used the checkerboard pattern listed here. It seemed to work mostly but now my contrast control on the TV is wacko. It turns super bright or super dim by moving it up or down.

Nobody listed a fix for the wacko contrast control it seems.
Better yet, does anyone happen to have the default service menu settings for the Samsung 5281?

yes it can, just like Wifey_Sherriff, have extensive knowledge of audio and video ,build pc's from scratch ohhhh but not all////////////////// I fix for years a hi-tech surveillance systems for the military that just the video card cost $12.000 and only once in my career find one that I couldn't fix and

regardless if you reading this you provably already mess up like I did...
short story got so retarded that I did a factory reset in a new un60d7000
if was wort it ? for me yes, got the tv looking better, got two more picture settings call cal-day and cal-night
cal-day is the one for me
after a two day fight to the dead still can get the analog pc input to cali
but who cares i dont use it
in the 2011 tv
the digital input is easy if u know how ,the tv got the check board already in the service menu call svc/test pattern/HDMI WD Pattern on/HDMI pattern 7
once is activated it will stay on ,go back to adc/wb and calibrate
that should fix All hdmi/dvi now if that don't work ,well most likely screwedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrJUCXOLCu0
i can do a video tutorial on request
I would love to get my hands on the technician manual to know exactly what the hell is this and the other

Lord Farken - don't think my LN-T5281F has the built in checkerboard pattern. Samsung probably added that in newer models.

I received a list of default settings for the various service menus.
While these default figures don't reflect the factory calibration tailored to my TV specifically I hope it will be close enough. I'll tweak later with the user menus. My guess is it'll be close enough. Just want my contrast control to work normally again.