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There is small spring attached to the clutch actuator or whatever the technical term for it is, but you just have to throw some grease on it and the squeek will go away. It's sitting behind your TMIC. You description of the noise sound very similar to the one I've experienced and mine has been fixed once I figured out what it was. Still on original clutch running 46K strong! Hopefully this input may have helped.

Btw my car is running a TP stage 2 map with a Perrin dp. From what I've read a very probably cause of the squeaking noise could be that the entire clutch assembly is coming unwelded from the firewall

Well - taking a car in modified like that to a dealer and looking for warranty work on the powertrain probably wasn't a great idea... I take it you can't do the work yourself? (I haven't read up on how the issue is addressed - the clutch isn't welded to the firewall, so I am not sure what you mean - the clutch master cylinder shouldn't be, either - it's held in place with 2 bolts... there's nothing under there which could be loose/creaking? have you tried checking all the nuts/bolts on the linkage by the clutch pedal (including the two which hold the linkage to the firewall) to make sure they are tight, as well as making sure the bolts holding the clutch master to the firewall are tight?

Did you not realize the implications of modifying the car in terms of what it would mean for your powertrain warranty?

If your VIN has been flagged, that shows up every time a dealer runs an inquiry on your car. Even if you now bring your car to a "mod friendly" dealership, they can't put through a warranty claim on your powertrain, unless they feel like doing it for free, because Subaru won't pay them.

Check to see if the firewall flexes when you depress the clutch. The 08+ WRXs have been known to have faulty spot welds on the firewall where the pedal assembly is welded to causing this noise and will eventually get worse if not fixed. The spot welds are more an issue of safety and should be fixed by your dealer, regardless of being "flagged" since the mods have 0 to do with that manufacturer defect and can also be a safety hazard if the POS welds break.

lol welcome to subaru
i can't wait what kinda drama they will gave me when the 2014 STi comes out....yeah i'm stupid for staying with subaru when i knew the dealer suck bad in washington dc area

Yeah I would have agree my 09 motor has blown out twice due to number 4 cylinder, They wouldn't replace it at all. I shouldn't stay, But I love the cars, just not the customer service and good luck with SOA as well, I talked to an engineer who couldnt even explain how the car runs....

from other posts on here, they can determine if the ECU has been flashed before - you are way better off bringing the car in as you have it than to try and be sneaky and return it to stock. (the point being if you mod the car and something fails as a result, Subaru shouldn't be footing the bill for the repair - pay to play...)

from other posts on here, they can determine if the ECU has been flashed before - you are way better off bringing the car in as you have it than to try and be sneaky and return it to stock. (the point being if you mod the car and something fails as a result, Subaru shouldn't be footing the bill for the repair - pay to play...)

100% agree. Some respect that you are being honest with them and will work with you, others put up a wall and send you away. I'd try another dealership and see what they say. I'm not sure about the whole "red flag" either but they probably put notes about mods in the records for your car.

Btw, my clutch has squeaked like this since a few months after I got it in 2009. The only time it went away was after it got a new long block but noise returned 2k miles later on the same clutch. I don't worry about it anymore. It holds stage 2 fine and when it doesn't I'll pay for the new clutch.

I just had my dealership replace the throw out bearing (they call it a pressure release bearing). It did not help or change the squeak. I am gonna try checking and cleaning everything I can find as well as greasing teh linkage under the TMIC. If that doesn't work i'm gonna check the welds. The easiest way is to remove the windshield wipers and the plastic ducting underneath them and shine a flashlight down there. they should be visible at that point. Just FYI