E4OD shutter

TTT, im looking to do this sat. I beleive I understand but I need to confirm which wire it is. Another thing to note on mine is it only (very noticably anyway) shutters on take off through 2nd, and when rolling downshift to 1st or 2nd.

The torque converter lock solenoid only locks in Drive or OD, so if you have a shutter on take off you have another problem. Could be a u joint, bad torque converter, or maybe a bad motor mount. Lot's of different reasons to look into.

Mine has gotten pretty bad lately so im ready to try about anything before it falls out. My truck is a 94, is it safe to say the Y/P wire is correct?

Yes, purple wire with a yellow tracer is what you're looking for, IIRC this color coding actually goes all the way to the 4R100.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJ3

TTT, im looking to do this sat. I beleive I understand but I need to confirm which wire it is. Another thing to note on mine is it only (very noticably anyway) shutters on take off through 2nd, and when rolling downshift to 1st or 2nd.

Sorry bout the delay, been a bit out the loop last few days - here's a link to the tech article several fellow oilburners put together for a different site, read through it and lemme know if you got any questions:E4OD Torque Converter Lock Up Mods - Oilburners.net

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rulebreaker

The torque converter lock solenoid only locks in Drive or OD, so if you have a shutter on take off you have another problem. Could be a u joint, bad torque converter, or maybe a bad motor mount. Lot's of different reasons to look into.

Actually I've heard/read rumors that the converter sometimes may lock up in 2nd gear as well, no idea how true that is tho - as far as I'm concerned it's just that, a rumor, but still something to keep in mind IMHO. I do agree tho that if the shudder is only in 1st and 2nd gear it's likely not related to the converter lockup, unfortunately I don't know enough about the E4OD internals to suggest what the problem could be...

I may end up doing that, just trying to keep money and time invested at a min. I did figure out mine is the aod-e/4r70w so the helps on cost

It was a bad day in the garage today. As a last resort I spent the 100.00 on a fluid/filter change. It was my first auto trans change and I must say it is pure joy. I ran thru the procedure as I found on the site and after I pulled out it slipped like crazy, ended up being 3qts low due to an addition cooler.

It was driving fine (still with low speed shudder) so I decided to go through with with the tcc control switch the way I understood it to begin with.

I cut the P/Y wire
Ran the trans side to a DPST switch in cab to a good ground
Ran the connecter side to a 12v key on with an in line 22k-ohm resistor

I ran really good for the first 10 miles, could really tell a difference. The trans, switch side of the curcuit was working for sure, no doubt. Then the OD light starting blinking and it started t shift into second harder. I assumed I had a bad connection on the harrnes (PCM?) side so I checked it and had good connection but also had 11.4v after the resistor. (my understanding was this should be 3v +/-)

On the way home it would barely drive. Like it was shifting from 1st to 3rd, and almost dying when stopped. I got it home and disconnected all of it, spliced the P/Y wire back together and pulled the neg batt. terminal for a bit to reset. Tried driving again and same thing, 1st to 3rd trying to die but no OD blinking. Setting still manualy running through the gears it dies when pulled into 2nd.

Im at a loss. I should have wired it according to the PDF file on oilburners, I understand that. I screwed up. Was it the fact mine is te AOD-E,, is it the wrong resistor, or did I fry something sending the 12V to it????

Im just looking now to undo the damage I have done and ANY help would be great.

Ah darnit man, the tech article we put together on Oilburners applies to E4OD transmissions only!!! I have absolutely no idea how an AODE or a 4R70W is wired up, what the color codes are for its harness, and all that - applying the E4OD setups to your AODE/4R70W was a brave but IMHO foolish thing to do. So I honestly have no clue as to what may have happened to your transmission. I suspect some internal damage may have occurred, but this is just thinking out loud, nothing more...

I do know for a fact that the 22k resistor works for an E4OD transmission, as there are at least two trucks out there that I have personally wired like that - one of them the owner wouldn't even bother unlocking the converter manually unless driving downtown a big city, instead she'd just keep the switch in the manual lock position all the time and rely on that protector relay to unlock the converter for her when she dropped out of 3rd gear. Again these are E4OD transmissions that run this, and I really wish than when you found out you have something else you asked me if the stuff still applies before you started working on it...

I may end up doing that, just trying to keep money and time invested at a min. I did figure out mine is the aod-e/4r70w so the helps on cost

It was a bad day in the garage today. As a last resort I spent the 100.00 on a fluid/filter change. It was my first auto trans change and I must say it is pure joy. I ran thru the procedure as I found on the site and after I pulled out it slipped like crazy, ended up being 3qts low due to an addition cooler.

It was driving fine (still with low speed shudder) so I decided to go through with with the tcc control switch the way I understood it to begin with.

I cut the P/Y wire
Ran the trans side to a DPST switch in cab to a good ground
Ran the connecter side to a 12v key on with an in line 22k-ohm resistor

I ran really good for the first 10 miles, could really tell a difference. The trans, switch side of the curcuit was working for sure, no doubt. Then the OD light starting blinking and it started t shift into second harder. I assumed I had a bad connection on the harrnes (PCM?) side so I checked it and had good connection but also had 11.4v after the resistor. (my understanding was this should be 3v +/-)

On the way home it would barely drive. Like it was shifting from 1st to 3rd, and almost dying when stopped. I got it home and disconnected all of it, spliced the P/Y wire back together and pulled the neg batt. terminal for a bit to reset. Tried driving again and same thing, 1st to 3rd trying to die but no OD blinking. Setting still manualy running through the gears it dies when pulled into 2nd.

Im at a loss. I should have wired it according to the PDF file on oilburners, I understand that. I screwed up. Was it the fact mine is te AOD-E,, is it the wrong resistor, or did I fry something sending the 12V to it????

Im just looking now to undo the damage I have done and ANY help would be great.

1994 f150 ext cab 2wd 302/AOD-E I know I screwed up and repent! I just tried it again after letting it set for several hours in hopes of the computer resetting but no luck. I also tried disonnecting the the P/Y wire altogether with no luck. Its like it locks the convertor up in second gear and that kills the motor.

Im trying to find the pinout online now so I know what the wire does and go from there. I have to have this truck for work so it makes it even more frustrating.

1994 f150 ext cab 2wd 302/AOD-E I know I screwed up and repent! I just tried it again after letting it set for several hours in hopes of the computer resetting but no luck. I also tried disonnecting the the P/Y wire altogether with no luck. Its like it locks the convertor up in second gear and that kills the motor.

Im trying to find the pinout online now so I know what the wire does and go from there. I have to have this truck for work so it makes it even more frustrating.

Sounds like it's shifting into 2 gears at the same time. Even if the TC locked up in second gear it wouldnt stall the engine unless you were going 0 mph. My bet is a failed solenoid but I dont know enough about the AODE to say that with any confidence.

It only stalls when settin still (0 mph) It will drive but its not right by any means. I have searched and searched and cant find anything on it. Even talked in length to my tranny buddy and he is at a loss???????????

It only stalls when settin still (0 mph) It will drive but its not right by any means. I have searched and searched and cant find anything on it. Even talked in length to my tranny buddy and he is at a loss???????????

Can you manualy shift her into 1st gear with the lever? If so what happens when you out her in 1st while standing still at 0 mph?

Yes, if shifted into 1st at 0 it will idle fine. Not sure what you mean by "out her"

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rulebreaker

So it will sit and idle in all gears except 2nd?

Yes, 2nd is the only problem. I can manual shift into 1st as long as I pass 2nd quickly, 3rd and reverse are fine also. When in D, driving as normal, its like it bogs when it shifts to 2nd, and almost dies when coming to a stop until it shifts itself into 1st. No check engine light or OD light blinking now.

Yes, if shifted into 1st at 0 it will idle fine. Not sure what you mean by "out her"

"out her" = "put her" with the wrong key hit on the keyboard, "O" and "P" are right next to each other and as far as spell-check is concerned "out" is just as grammatically-correct as "put", even tho in the context it makes no sense whatsoever, lol.

But yes, I was asking about 1st gear from stand-still because that's how you usually start moving from a stop, in 1st gear - very rarely there is a need to start moving it 2nd, so if 2nd is the only gear stalling the engine at low speed then at least for the time being you may wanna skip it entirely and just manually shift 1-3 directly... Well, ideally you wanna not drive the truck while you figure out what the issue is, but if that's not possible then just skip the offending gear.

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