OK - my last post was clutch got really easy to operate. I made the adjustment to the travel adjustment wheel and it was normal for the next few days.

We left Utah and headed for vegas. everything was normal then downshifting to pull into camp the clutch was easy again. I parked, dumped, filled water. Went to leave and experienced the following.-Clutch is really easy to depress, transmission doesnt slow down enough for me to shift into gear-Checked the adjustment and it was right (one clockwise turn to "tight")-Let bus air down (0 psi) aired back up and same - cant shift into gear

I had everything greased before leaving WI 2 months ago by an operator running MCI 9'sDoes this sound like a clutch spring issue?Anyone know a place near Vegas to get good service?

You have a cracked/broken middle clutch disc, that does cause dragging, I would stop engine, put in gear and restart, you can shift gears without the clutch if your savey. Stop when need to get the R gear and restart.

Been there, Why I converted to the RTO910 10 speed and the truck HD Pull clutch.That is when I found the SAE 1 bell housing andSAE 2 flywheel, and the fun began, what a mess until I got a SAE 1 bell housing for the SAE 1 flywheel, then things started making sense.

The origional MCI setup uses a push clutch, junk in my book.Take to a bus shop that does MCI, it will cost in the $2,000.00 area, new pressure plate, new moveable disc, two new clutch discs, throw out bearing and a new clutch facing insert, labor. When done, it is still a poor clutch setup, my opinion, I am too much HD Truck setup.Good luchDave

Since you mentioned that the pedal pressure got light at times, could be an issue with the air assist unit not pushing lever in far enough? If it continues to stay light, could be broken spring,s in pressure plate. Just other possibilities. Have you checked the clutch lever travel while someone pushes the pedal clear down? Push type clutches have been used in these coaches for years with few problems, except from excessive slippage by operator. Not saying that pull type systems aren't better.

I did observe the operation but didnt measure ill make the measurements tomorrow morning as my son opperates the clitch pedal. If that all checks out I will be there waiting for Gary tomorrow. Thanks guys.

I know where it is now thanks. I was going to call in the morning but now I can just get over there. I'm hoping it is (magically) drivable tomorrow morning and I can get over there without a tow. Assuming it isn't an issue with linkage, adjustment...Can't wait for the sun to rise and check it all out.

With pressure getting lighter, you probably broke one or more of the "fingers" that release the clutch. With those fingers broken, it is easier to push in since you're no longer pushing on the whole clutch, and it is dragging since that broken part of the clutch can no longer get released. It will not fix itself-have to tear into it. Advise having it towed over to B&B. Las Vegas Freightliner works on buses also. Good Luck, TomC

It would be possible to disconnect everything on the engine as if you were doing an engine removal, support the gearbox, slide the engine forward a foot on the cradle, gain access to the clutch to re&re it, and slide it all back together, but I wouldn't try it. The main issue is the gearbox is totally supported by hanging off the back of the engine so keeping it in place would be very hard, but you might do it with a proper transmission jack. The engine really needs to come out, then it's very easy. Don't forget to inspect/change the pilot bearing in the flywheel and the throw-out bearing - there will never be an easier time. The springs for the clutch cover are "blue" coded, I got mine from Luke when I rebuilt my clutch.