How to Make Maple Cream

Maple cream is just maple syrup, cooked to the soft-ball stage, cooled to about 100 degrees, and then beaten with a spoon until very fine crystals form, turning the syrup into a thick, pale, opaque mass. (I like to add a tiny bit of vegetable oil to keep the foam down during boiling, and I add a pinch of salt because I think most things that are very sweet benefit from salt, but those are optional.) Making it is simple, but it would be dishonest to describe it as easy. The challenge lies in the beating of the cooled syrup, which requires strong arms, a sturdy grip, a resolute nature, and—if possible—a similarly equipped assistant to share stirring duties when the going gets tough.

STEP #1 MAKE A BATH

STEP #2 ▼First, set up an ice bath by putting a clean medium saucepan inside a large bowl full of ice. It’s not necessary to add water, since the ice will begin to melt as soon as you pour the hot syrup into the saucepan.

STEP #2 COMBINE IT

STEP #3 ▼Then pour the syrup into a medium saucepan, and add (if desired) the oil and a pinch of salt.

STEP #3 BOIL IT

STEP #4 ▼Heat the syrup over medium heat without stirring or disturbing it in any way. There’s nothing to do except wait at this point, but take my advice: Don’t get over-confident and walk away. If you do, the syrup will take offense at your cocky attitude and it will boil over just to teach you a lesson. I usually lower the heat as the temperature approaches 232 degrees, as it can overheat very quickly, resulting in maple candy rather than a creamy maple spread.

STEP #4 HEAT IT

STEP #5 ▼Boil the syrup until the temperature reaches 235 degrees. (I usually continue to heat and monitor the temperature for 60 seconds after the thermometer first hits 235 degrees, just to be sure the entire contents of the pan are precisely at the desired temperature.) Then pour the hot syrup into the saucepan in the ice bath.

STEP #5 STIR IT

STEP #6 ▼Let the syrup cool until it reaches 100 degrees. The exact temperature is not as important this time, so don’t fret too much about it. At this point, remove the saucepan from the ice bath and start stirring with a wooden spoon. I like to think of this as a marathon, not a sprint; speed isn’t as important as maintaining a constant, steady pace. At first it just looks like thick syrup or clear caramel.

STEP #6 STIR IT MORE

STEP #7 ▼Over time (anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes), the syrup starts to lighten in color; this is the crystal structure starting to form. My arm is usually getting a bit tired at this point, but I’m almost there.

STEP #7 STIR IT EVEN MORE

STEP #8 ▼When the maple cream starts to lose its shine and takes on the texture of natural peanut butter and the color of tahini, stop stirring.

STEP #8 JAR IT

Work quickly here, because the maple cream remains pourable for only about 30 seconds. Using a rubber spatula, scrape it into a clean jar with a tight-fitting lid.