After relocating even farther from its red-sauced brethren, this Belmont modern Italian keeps its brilliance intact. Sure, the dining room is a little more luxurious, and some will be glad to hear of the removal of the trestle tables, but the pastas remain just as powerful and generously proportioned (one plate serves two). We loved the farfalle with fresh porcinis in a butter-driven sauce that achieved the most delicate shade of brown and the spicy chicken on the bone braised with artichokes and peppers-which seemed like a chef's whim.

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