With your old teaspoon, sort of
'shovel' a tiny amount on to the glue in whatever coloured stripes you
like. I've chosen rainbow socks because I got a great pair like this for
Christmas.

If any goes over the line, just
push it back with your brush.

You really only need a tiny bit of
Frit.

If you don't have much of a choice
of colours, please email me, I can do you a sample selection enough for
this project so you don't have to buy large packs of anything.

Continue
with glue and Frit in stripes until the whole sock is covered and let it
dry.

At this point, I'd transfer the
sock to my kiln shelf.

With
the sock on the kiln shelf, put some dots of glue on the back of the
clear glass top layer and press it down gently onto the Frit.

You will hear a crunchy noise as
bits of Frit dislodge.

Full fast fuse.

Here's the sort of result you will get ~ the sock will be 5-6mm in depth
and nice and strong.

You can make many patterns this way and the cutting is minimal.

Sock
(B) has the same basic 2 layers of cut fusing glass, but this time
I'm going to add the pattern in sheet glass rather than Frit.

The other thing about this sock is
that I've cut the clear glass layer a fraction bigger all round.

While cutting, the toe fell off my
sock...if your glass breaks in the wrong place, don't worry, that's what
fusing is great for!

Just glue the pieces back together
and carry on as normal.

When
I was cutting sock (A) I had some leftovers and slivers of white
opal.

(Save every sliver and scrap of
fusing glass because they are really useful for small details).

I've made ribbing from the slivers
and cut a heel and toe in the white. Add dots of glue and stick them
down.

Then
I cut up some orange COE 90 rod very thinly and placed them in a
large polka pattern.

The white dots used here are white
seed beads. They do fuse absolutely ok, just don't use too many of them.
I have no idea what COE they are, but in small quantities they won't
harm your piece at all. Better still would be cut up stringer in
COE 90.

Then I added some red Frit to the
toe and heel.

Now
you want to stick down the top layer of clear glass.

Remember I cut it a fraction
bigger all round? See how it overlaps in the picture.

Think of it like bedsheets, you want to tuck the sheet over the mattress
right? Well, it's the same with glass.

The top glass layer has to fuse
and slump over the underneath layers. In this case, they are still only
quite thin, (4mm), but if you use more glass as we will in sock (C)
and the top layer isn't quite big enough you will not get a nice even
smooth edge all round and the piece may have to be ground and
firepolished.

This
was full fast fused and the resulting sock is smooth, strong and very
Christmassy!

Finished depth was 5-6mm.

Sock (C)
is a colourful stripey sock with a floral pattern.

It's got a clear bottom layer,
sheet glass middle layer and clear glass top layer, again cut slightly
larger than the other 2 so that it overlaps.

Cut the pattern of your sock in
sheet fusing glass. I've chosen to use up some more oddments and make a
sock of 5 coloured stripes.

Stick them to the bottom layer and
don't worry about any tiny gaps.

I've
added ribbing using glass bugle beads. COE 90 stringer would have been
better but I ran out!

As with sock (B), small
amounts of glass of a different COE will not harm your piece.

The floral pattern is made from
thinly sliced millefiore, stuck in place with glue.

Once
it's all dry, stick the top layer of clear glass down.

Again, see how it's slightly
larger than the other 2 layers.

Full fast fuse.

It's
a very pretty little piece!

If you decide to turn your sock
into a pendant, try sticking the bail in the top right rather than in
the middle.

This way, the weight distribution
will make it dangle nicely, see the picture up at the top.

If you have any questions or if
you want small supplies of Frit or millefiore in project sized amounts,
please email me.