tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495Fri, 03 Oct 2014 04:37:13 +0000Mike's Divide Trip"Formidable bike blogger Mike Lauterbach." - Biketouringweekhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/noreply@blogger.com (Mike)Blogger80125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489298674539259Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:12:00 +00002006-08-06T12:36:30.316-07:00What we have here...... is more than probably anyone would want to know about the Divide. But maybe not -- when I was doing my research for this trip I didn't find much on what to expect going north to south. And details on what to expect and what to bring weren't always in place. <br /><br />So, here is a collection of stuff I wrote while I was on the trip. A little guide to what's here may help. First, there are posts that are lifted from the notebook that I took along. I typed those up over the last few days, and they are in order from beginning to end below. Second, there are some summary posts I put together that have to do with equipment. Those are found after the notebook posts. After that, there are posts that I wrote as I went along. Those are more for friends and family but do contain useful information for riders from time to time. Those are in reverse order because of the way this blogging program works. To get to those directly, look at the archives for <a href="http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006_05_01_dividetrip_archive.html">May</a>, <a href="http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006_06_01_dividetrip_archive.html">June</a> and <a href="http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006_07_01_dividetrip_archive.html">July</a>. The May archive also contains some information about getting ready that I wrote up before I left. <br /><br />I always like to read everything I can about places I'm going either while I'm there or beforehand. So this is offered in that spirit. <br /><br />It's also offered in the hope that people planning to ride the Divide will consider the south to north direction, starting earlier in the summer, as a viable option. This year, the south to north route opened up in Colorado around June 1, allowing a start around May 15-May 20. The New Mexico section was hot (and dry), but from Colorado on the route basically followed spring north, with some snow on the ground from time to time throughout. Because it reached Colorado early in the season, it missed the major part of the monsoon season. <br /><br />Going south this year (at least according to what I've heard) meant hitting the major part of the monsoon season in Colorado and lots of wet in New Mexico. Plus, I imagine (although this is just a guess) that temperatures in Colorado were significantly higher in July than they were in June. Plus, if a person rode the route at a high pace (say in 45-50 days or so) they would end up in New Mexico while it was still at least as hot as it was in late May. <br /><br />This is only one year, and perhaps we got lucky. But my prediction is that the south to north route will be a better route in hotter years (because the passes in CO clear out earlier, allowing an earlier start). If current trends hold true, more of those years are on the way. <br /><br />In any case, I hope that this account will be helpful, and encourage anyone thinking about doing this not to hold back. I really can't think of a better way to spend a couple of months.http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/what-we-have-here.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489153812354281Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:09:00 +00002006-08-06T12:39:55.913-07:00Saturday, May 20 – Day 1 – outside Columbus, NMIt’s about 100 degrees out here. Dry heat, but the next person who says, “yeah, but it’s a dry heat” will be pummelled into submission. The locals don’t say crap like that. They say, “pretty hot out there for riding a bike.” And it is. <br /><br />We (that would be me and my homey Tim, who is going to tear this up with me) dropped off the rental car in El Paso at 11:00 central, 10:00 mountain – right on time. We had to go in and assure the attendant that yes, in fact, this was the car we picked up in Minneapolis less than 24 hours ago, and no, the 1700 miles we had put on it are not a mistake. <br /><br />We have Lewis Black to thank for getting us here. Tim has a bunch of standup on his iPod for driving at night. He’s right – there’s nothing quite like standup and strong coffee for getting you through 400 miles of Texas at 3 AM. All the way from Fort Worth to somewhere out in the middle of the desert that good fellow was screeching at me about the sad state of affairs in America. It was a high price to pay for staying awake, but better than the alternative. <br /><br />So anyway – the trip. We dropped off the car at 10 AM and were loaded up and good to go by 11. By that time it was over 90 and full sun. I drank 3 waterbottles just getting the 10 miles to the other side of town. <br /><br />El Paso is a junk town. Like other towns we drove through in TX, it reminds me of Gatlinburg, TN – so many signs you can barely see the buildings, cars everywhere, noise, dirt, pollution, the works. Broken glass was everywhere. And the people were rude – honking and yelling even though there was nowhere to get out of the way. (This is in direct contrast to NM, where everyone has been ridiculously friendly.)<br />So, we got to the other side of town by noon or so. By that time the sun was beating down hard enough that it felt like a hot iron on my back. We stopped at a Village Inn (Perkins for southerners) and loaded up on eggs and such. <br /><br />We got back out around 2:30, loaded up a ton of water (about 3 gallons apiece) and headed out. There wasn’t really a plan except that we figured we’d get as far as we could, then camp. Columbus was still 75 miles away – too far for one day. We ended up riding for another hour or so, then stopping in a cemetery for an hour or two, just waiting for the sun to get a little lower. We tried it again at that point and managed to keep going until about the time the sun went down. <br /><br />Once we got out of El Paso all there was was a straight, flat road through the desert. There wasn’t much traffic – just the occasional Yukon bombing through at 85 mph. But everyone gave us plenty of room. <br /><br />We started looking for a campsite about half an hour before the sun went down. Ordinarily, we’d just wander 100 yards back in the brush somewhere, but here there were good barb-wire fences on both sides. But, every once in awhile there would be a side road with a cattle guard. We found one of those on the north (away from the border) side of the road, went down 50 yards so we were out of view of the highway, and camped in a sandy spot. The campsite probably fell into the “you have any better ideas” category. The site itself was OK, but we were only about 5 miles from the border and had nothing to do with our food but put it in Tim’s food bag and leave it in the sand. <br /><br />I got myself rehydrated and ate a bit more. Despite being dog-tired I didn’t get to sleep right away. The desert has its own set of noises – coyotes, birds, and little things that skitter around on the ground. Then add the border – a helicopter and a truck rooting around on the other side of the highway. (The truck eventually came out onto the highway on the other (south) side of the same gravel road we were camped next to, but they didn’t stop to hassle us.) Then, add a ridiculous snore and the occasional car flying by 50 yards away. It took me awhile. <br /><br />Day 1 stats: <br /><br />40 miles<br />5 hours<br />500 feet of climbing (all in El Paso)<br />2 gallons water/Gatoradehttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/saturday-may-20-day-1-outside-columbus.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489137380422393Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:07:00 +00002006-08-06T12:09:33.806-07:00Sunday, May 21 – Day 2 – Columbus, NMWe got up at 5 this morning and headed out just as the sun poked out from behind the mountains. (There are these big rocky mountains around – but most of the terrain is just this long, steady, barely perceptible grade.) By 10:30 or so we made it to the top of a long grade, and Columbus was visible but still 15 miles away, straight across a shimmering lake of sand. And by then it was hot.<br /><br />I got moving and just sort of tapped out a rhythm at about 12-13 mph. But it was incredibly frustrating – the town so close you could almost reach out and touch it, but you look down at the speedo and it says you still have 9 miles – 45 minutes – to go. <br /><br />What a bizarre place the desert is. I really liked it out there last night, and this morning’s ride was phenomenal. But it is such a struggle from 11-6. <br /><br />One more note for today. The place we’re staying at is called Pancho Villa state park. Villa was one of several Mexican generals locked in a power struggle in the 1910s. He attacked Columbus in 1916, apparently because he was pissed at somebody in town who had sold guns to one of the other generals and because the other general had gotten some US help against him. <br /><br />Anyway, after his raid the US government sent a bunch of troops down here and chased Villa around Mexico for awhile. (They never did catch him.) So there was this big military operation based out of Columbus, and now there is a museum about the whole thing. <br /><br />So I walk into the museum, and the first thing I see is a big FWD truck that says, “Clintonville, Wis.” on frame above the radiator. (I grew up in Clintonville, where the FWD is the biggest employer. The town’s claim to fame is that the first four wheel drive truck was invented there, and they would get all the old trucks out and run them around in parades when I was a kid.) So I tell the manager or curator about this, and they get all fired up about it, and now they’re going to try to get ahold of the people at the FWD in Clintonville to see if they want to send some more trucks down here for a reenactment that the park puts on. I guess this battle chasing Villa around was the first time that trucks were used for military supply lines, and the trucks they used were FWD ones. Small world, eh?<br /><br />All my gear made it the first 90 miles here with no problem. The only issue so far is that the whole front of the bike has a wobble at speed if I’m not holding onto it, which I think is just poor weight distribution in my front panniers. Also, I need to adjust the rear derailleur – the bike shop never adjusted it when they replaced the cable. Boo. <br /><br />I’ve been quite a bit slower than I expected – cruising speed on flat pavement is around 12-13 mph. 15 mph takes a downhill, a tailwind, a favorable grade, a strong push, or some combination thereof. Headwinds suck with this setup (as expected) but on the flats I think I’m a good bit faster than Tim with his BOB (also as expected). <br />Both knees have held up without so much as a hint of complaint, as have the muscles. The show stopper has been all around exhaustion brought on by the sun and heat.<br /><br />Day 2 stats:<br /><br />45 miles<br />5 hours<br />1.5 gallons of water <br /><br />(Note: reading this I noticed that we started out with 3 gallons and drank 3.5, which would seem to violate the laws of physics. But that’s my story and I’m sticking with it.)http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/sunday-may-21-day-2-columbus-nm.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489122420091982Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:05:00 +00002006-08-06T12:07:04.203-07:00Monday, May 22 – Day 3 – Faywood Hot Springs, NMWe left Columbus at about 5:30 AM. I got up at quarter to five and packed the tent and all my gear in the dark, and we cruised out just as the sun started peeking out.<br />Morning riding out in the desert really is glorious. There’s a cool breeze, soft light, and often nobody around. We did the 30 miles into Deming by 9:30 or so, made a quick stop at the grocery store and BK, and hit the highway. <br /><br />Just after BK I had my first mechanical. The bike felt low in the rear, so I stopped to pump it up and all the air came out through the valve stem when I took the pump off. I’ve never had that happen before – strange. But I replaced the tube and we were back on the road pretty quick. <br /><br />US 180 out of Deming wasn’t as much fun as the other highways so far. Traffic was heavy and the limit was 65 mph, so it came by fast. But everybody was giving us plenty of room. But, about 10 miles down the road somebody in a red pickup chucked a half-empty bag of Lay’s potato chips out the window and hit Tim square in the back of the leg. That freaked him out, and he said he was riding the rest of the way on the rough asphalt shoulder. I wanted nothing of that – I was having a ball and even the potato chip guy gave us plenty of room – so we said we’d meet up at this campground up the way. <br /><br />All the way from Deming we had a crosswind out of the west that was just enough behind us to give us a little bit of push. It got stronger as the day went on – probably gusts up to 30-40 mph by the time we quit. But the wind was just right so that when a semi would go by me, it would pass on the upwind side and create this tremendous suction that literally grabbed my bike by the panniers and accelerated it forward like it was being shot out of a shotgun. The first time it happened it freaked me out, but it was a straight pull (not out into the road or toward the dirt or anything) so it was fun after I got used to it. <br /><br />We ended up at this vaguely hippie place called Faywood Hot Springs – complete with clothing optional pools and a person who looks like John the Baptist wandering about. Right now I’m sitting in their little meeting house listening to the wind kick stuff around. It must be gusting over 40 mph by now – big gusts that shake everything. <br /><br />But, it’s a good place, the weather isn’t too warm (I think we’re getting into a little different weather pattern up here) and I am looking forward to some pasta tonight.<br /><br />One note about yesterday. After I finished writing, I got sort of pukey sick – at first just a bad feeling, but we went out for pizza and after a couple of slices I felt like vomiting. But I felt good this morning, and feel fine now. It must just have been a little too much heat, a little bit of dehydration, or both. <br /><br />Gear note: Looks like the valve stem on that tube is shot. I threw it out. Strange. Tonight is tune-up time – my speedo quit working after I changed that tire, and I still need to do my derailleur adjustment that I never got to because I got sick. Also, I’m only using the GPS for finding towns, then turning it off. I don’t have the juice to leave it on all the time. So, no perfect climbing numbers. Sad but true. <br /><br />Day 3 stats:<br /><br />60 miles (all pavement)<br />6.5 hours<br />600 ft of climbing<br />2 gallons of waterhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/monday-may-22-day-3-faywood-hot.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489112336994711Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:03:00 +00002006-08-06T12:05:23.370-07:00Tuesday, May 23 – Day 4 – near Mimbres, NMWe’re camped at about 6500 feet now – almost 2000 feet higher than yesterday. And I can feel it. All in all though it was a great day – good weather, no mechanicals, and – best of all – stuff to look at! We’re in the mountains now, baby. This was our first day on the official ADV Cycling route, and this gravel sure beats that desert highway.<br /><br />We started out a little after 7 AM, with 20 miles to the first town (the name escapes me now). I had a double QP with a shake. Then we talked to the ranger, who said that the route through the Gilas was OK and that there was some water around, although not much. So we stocked up on 7-8 days food and 2 days water and headed out into the mountains. <br /><br />Today was the first real mountain stage, and the grades came one after the other. We gained about 2000 feet of elevation total, and gained and lost a lot more going through the foothills. Tim says this place (scenery and people) reminds him of Colorado “before they (screwed) it up.” Everyone has been extremely friendly so far – just good people. <br /><br />We saw deer and wild pigs today. Tim is afraid of the pigs. He has seen movies (Snatch in particular) where pigs eat people’s feet. (“Never trust a pig farmer” says the character in the movie.) We’re in the trees now and everything is starting to change. <br /><br />Both bikes will be tuned up in the AM. Tim is having some shifting problems. I want to adjust the rear brake (again) and make sure everything is tight. The downhills just shake the crap out of everything – to an extent that is hard to believe. Also, strapping stuff on top is not going to work anymore. I lost bottles, sandals, you name it virtually the second we got into the gravel. From now on, everything goes in the panniers. <br /><br />Day 4 stats:<br /><br />40 miles<br />3000 feet uphttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/tuesday-may-23-day-4-near-mimbres-nm.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489096817753749Sun, 06 Aug 2006 19:00:00 +00002006-08-06T12:02:48.180-07:00Wed & Thu, May 24-25 – Days 5-6 – North of Gila Nat’l ForestI’m writing by flashlight and I’m tired, so this is going to be short. These were my first two days on gravel. Yesterday we made it only 25 miles or so, with one steep climb after another. Today we made it about 35 – half on those steep climbs and half on some broad plains that remind me of Kansas, only browner. <br /><br />The campsites for both nights were absolutely superb. Last night we camped up on this high draw under big pines and next to an old broken down cattle pen. I got a bunch of pics of the camp just as the sun was coming up. Today we’re on a high (7500 ft or so) plateau sort of thing, but down next to this big rock formation. There will be pics of that as well I’m sure.<br /><br />There has been lots of wildlife around. This morning we were cruising down a long downhill and turn a corner and here’s this bear out in the middle of the road. He turned and breezed right away, before Tim got there. He was a big fellow – a big blackie. I swear he was up to my waist at the back, but Tim says no bears are that tall. Maybe he just looked bigger because the adrenaline was pumping so hard. Later on we ran into a big herd of elk, and there was another herd about 500 yards from our camp on the other side of this little depression. Very cool. <br /><br />There has been some conflict about riding style and pace between Tim and I. Tim really likes to smell the roses, and he takes long breaks with naps in the middle of the day. He also is sort of a start late/ride late sort of guy. I would prefer to start early and either push to get done by early afternoon or take one long break with food and a nap in the middle of the day. Riding late is a good idea because the weather is so much more favorable, so we agree on that. But the rest is difficult for me.<br /><br />Pace has also been an issue. Tim is as strong as I am on the big tough climbs, but he can’t seem to put out a sustained effort on flats or the uphill grades. I’ve been really lollygagging on the flats, to the point where I can’t really go any slower and still pedal, and I still put time on him between all the corners. If I put out any effort at all I end up way ahead in a matter of minutes. <br /><br />Hopefully he’ll get stronger as things go on, and it’s actually good for me with my knee the way it is to have to moderate my pace. But we have a lot of flats ahead so hopefully the pace will pick up. It hurts my bum to go so slow. <br /><br />Day 5 stats:<br /><br />27 miles<br />4500 feet of climbing<br />all day (with long noon break)<br /><br />Day 6 stats:<br /><br />37 miles (plus 7 going back to look for Tim’s camera)<br />3500 feet of climbing<br />all dayhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/wed-thu-may-24-25-days-5-6-north-of.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489078652542864Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:58:00 +00002006-08-06T11:59:46.526-07:00Friday, May 26 – Day 7Today we cruised across the edge of the Plains of San Augustin on a shortcut. The ranger said there was no water for 60 miles on the official route through Collins Park, so we said the heck with that. <br /><br />We filled up the bottles about 10 miles from Old Horse Springs. We were about to filter out of this nasty cattle trough when a lady rancher came by on her truck and said hi. Turns out there was a well about a half mile down, and she was going down there to turn it on. We were in luck – and, even more good luck, I ran over a barb wire fence that was on the ground on my way into the well. Never saw it. But my tires must have gone between the barbs and I didn’t flat. <br /><br />Lots of wind and heat again today. We’re going through water like you’d have to see to believe. <br /><br />For some reason, I have had camp anxiety these last few nights. We hung the food tonight but couldn’t really get it high enough, and other nights we’ve just put it in a bag away from the tent. Then I sit there and listen to see if anything is eating it. I have to knock this off or the trip will be a lot less fun. Who cares if the bear eats our food – as long as it isn’t in the tent he isn’t going to eat us. <br />Morning note: I slept better last night than any night so far – not because the camp was in better shape, but just because I decided not to worry about the gear. I will take that approach from now on. <br /><br />Bitter cold last night, but the water bottles weren’t frozen this morning. I had the hood on my bag all the way closed except for a little hole, and wrapped the sleeves of my fleece around my head. I really wish I had a stocking hat.<br /><br />Also – had a dream that I was watching Lance Armstrong ride a tandem with a one-legged woman. I have no idea why. This was the first bike-related dream of the trip and hopefully the last. <br /><br />Also – had another dream that the building we had lunch in yesterday (this ramshackle abandoned house with a nice shady porch on the downwind side) collapsed on us. The only thing was that in the dream it had a second floor. Tim and I were up there talking about how the building probably would get knocked down in the wind. And guess what – it did. <br /><br />Day 7 stats:<br /><br />38 miles<br />2500 feet climbing<br />7 hourshttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/friday-may-26-day-7.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489066807499963Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:56:00 +00002006-08-06T11:57:48.076-07:00Sat-Sun, May 27-28 – Days 8-9Yesterday we cruised into Pie Town in the morning and feasted on pie and chili burgers. The lady (Kathy?) at the Pie-O-Neer told us about a house where the CDT hikers hang out, so we stopped there and I fixed another flat. Nobody was home, though, we cruised out again at 5 or 6 after the burgers had settled a little. There were fences for miles, and we ended up pulling off and setting up camp right behind two “no trespassing” signs – the only place that wasn’t fenced in. <br /><br />Turned out it was about 300 yards from somebody’s house – basically in their front yard. They drove in about 25 yards away and I swear the guy looked right at us, but either they didn’t notice us or they didn’t care. <br /><br />We packed up early, and I left just as the sun peeked out. Tim was going to take the paved road (60 miles), and I was going on the official 75 mile route on gravel. We’d meet up in Grants. It was one of my best days ever on a bike – great scenery, favorable winds (gale force by the end), good roads, the works. I was into Grants by 3:00 or so. Tim made it by one and already had a hotel by the time I got there. <br />The knee is a little stiff, but in a different spot than it was before. I will survive. <br /><br />Tim and I have at least a temporary fix for our pace issues. We’re just going to set a spot and meet there at the end of the day. The miles will stay sort of low (we need 50 a day to avoid me being divorced when I get back, and we’ve been well short of that so far). But, we both get to ride at our own pace, and I suspect that at some point the totals will edge up. Tim is already a lot stronger than he was when we started. <br /><br />Water is still an issue, but it’s becoming a little less critical. Everything is very dry, and some of the forest along the way was closed. But it’s a little bit cooler, we’re also covering more miles a day, and I think we’re getting more used to the heat. All of those things mean we don’t have to carry quite as much water as before.<br /><br />Day 8 stats:<br /><br />45 miles<br />2500 feet climbing<br /><br />Day 9 stats:<br /><br />75 miles<br />2000 feet of climbinghttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/sat-sun-may-27-28-days-8-9.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489058711884755Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:53:00 +00002006-08-06T11:56:27.120-07:00Mon-Tues, May 29-30 – Days 10-11Two sort of strange days. Yesterday we took a sort of half rest day, then headed out on what was supposed to be a 2000 foot climb. But we got up 1200 feet or so and the whole forest was closed – road closed, campsites closed, the works. We debated going around the barriers, but figured there would be no water and maybe surly rangers out there.<br /><br />So, we headed back down. The map and GPS showed a shortcut over to the paved alternate, so we took that. Big mistake. The road was closed, but we hopped the gate. Then it turned to sand. Then it disappeared. The GPS said it went right through a fence, so that’s where we went (we were halfway and the way back was uphill). We jumped the fence and found it, but from there to the road it was all sand. We had to hike-a-bike 3 miles or so from there to the highway. It must have taken us 4-5 hours to get the 8 miles through the shortcut. Ugh. <br /><br />Then, it was getting dark, and the spot marked as a campground on the map had no campground. There wasn’t even a spot to pull off – nothing but fences on both sides. So we went to the bar (there was a bar) to ask directions, and ended up talking to this Navajo fellow named John. He said we could camp at his place up the way. We threw the bikes in his truck, got going, and he ended up driving us something like 50 miles. I ended up a little crabby about the whole thing – our new buddy was a good bit drunk (although he drove steady as a rock), we ended up cutting off a bunch of the route, and we never got dinner. (Probably the lack of dinner is top of the list.)<br /><br />But, it turned out the next day it was probably for the best. Tim’s derailleur, which has been giving him problems all along, must have gotten more wrecked as we hopped over those fences on the shortcut. (We think that the BOB is pushing on the derailleur when it gets at an acute enough angle, like when the whole thing is getting hauled over a fence.) So without the help from our intoxicated compadre we may not have made it. <br /><br />Then today Tim broke a spoke. Ordinarily this isn’t too bad of a repair, but this was Tim’s bike, plus the spoke was on the rear wheel on the drive side. The whole thing was this tremendous exercise in frustration, partly because the back end of Tim’s bike is so out of whack and partly because we didn’t carry the (heavy) cassette tool you need to get at the drive side spokes. We pretty much had to take the whole back of the bike apart to get the BOB out of the way, and we never did get the new spoke in. Tim had to ride it into Cuba missing a spoke. He’s going to work on that tomorrow.<br /><br />Budget bike is overnighting (except it’s actually two days) a new derailleur hanger for Tim. Tomorrow I’m taking off on the official route, and Tim will take the highway around. That should leave me with a much needed rest day in Abiquiu. <br /><br />Two notes here – first, Tim was ready to quit today because of his equipment. He has mostly cheaper gear – used BOB, $400 bike, cheap commuter panniers – and it’s just sort of giving out here. <br /><br />I don’t know what I’d do if Tim quit. Probably just keep going I guess – what else would I do – but maybe I’d put some slicks on the bike and try riding back to WI. This stuff is awfully rugged to try to do by yourself. <br /><br />Also – we visited some ruins today that were on the route. The ruins are this outpost put together by the Chacos, who also made some much bigger, more famous ruins that were too far off the route for us. Anyway, I was wandering around, minding my own business, and I hear this rattling. Here’s this little rattlesnake (maybe 2 feet long) about 3 feet away from my foot. I got out of there immediately, and wrote “watch out for snakes!” in the little guest register they had at the entrance. That ought to make some people think. John (our Navajo buddy from the other day) says that the ruins are sacred, and that it’s bad mojo (my word, not his) to be hanging out there without undergoing the proper rituals. I wonder if there’s something to that now. Man I hate snakes. <br /><br />Day 10 stats:<br /><br />25 miles (plus 50 in the truck)<br />1500 feet climbing<br />5 hours<br /><br />Day 11 stats:<br /><br />70 miles (all pavement)<br />7 hours<br />2500 feet of climbing – mostly rollershttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/mon-tues-may-29-30-days-10-11.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489040049771403Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:51:00 +00002006-08-06T11:53:20.500-07:00Wednesday May 31 – Day 12Last night in Cuba we made a bunch of calls and tried to figure out what to do about Tim’s bike. Turns out the part won’t be to Cuba until tomorrow AM. So, what we figured out is that I’ll ride to Abiquiu on the official route through the mountains, and Tim will take a rest day here, then catch up later. I get three days; he gets two. <br /><br />So, right now I’m camped by myself up at about 9000 feet. All I did today was one big climb – 2800 feet over 20 miles. It’s really gorgeous up here – all big timber, with some spots where they cut some of all of the timber a few years back. The cuts make excellent spots to camp, though, so I don’t have too much of a beef. They ended up just as big mountain meadows with wildflowers and such – not as ugly as you think of when you think of clearcuts. <br /><br />But this is a unique day in a whole bunch of ways. First, it’s my anniversary (or our anniversary, as the case may be). It’s a shame I can’t spend the day with Sarah – all I can do is just say thanks here to her for letting me spend my anniversary in a smelly sleeping bag. Here's to you, baby.<br /><br />I keep thinking I should be worried about camping up here by myself, but I really actually feel at peace with the whole thing. The main thing that it’s nice to have someone around for is the riding – somebody to help you out if you fall and hurt yourself – not the camping. (It’s nice to have somebody to talk to at night, but that’s different. You don’t get worried when that doesn’t happen, just a little lonely.) Also, the big mountains remind me of home – big trees, like up in the Porkies, and familiar bird sounds, bugs, and so on. Plus, I took textbook bear precautions – camp in one spot, cook in a second, and stash the food and smelly stuff in a third – all in a nice downwind triangle. <br /><br />Just reflecting here, there’s a chance I might not see Tim again for awhile. The repair he has to do is an awfully tricky one without the cassette tool, and it looked like he may have stripped the nipple on the spoke he was replacing, which would mean more waiting. <br /><br />One thing is for sure – it’s going to get cold tonight. I stopped early and set up camp so I wouldn’t have to cook or set up in the dark. <br /><br />Day 12 stats:<br /><br />20 miles<br />2800 feet up<br />5 hourshttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/wednesday-may-31-day-12.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489027565916218Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:50:00 +00002006-08-06T11:51:15.660-07:00Thu-Fri, June 1-2 – Days 13-14Yesterday I cruised the full 65 miles into Abiquiu, thinking I was going to get my rest day. But, 5 minutes after I get into town here’s Tim Davis grinning at me from across the street. Turned out it was only about 65 miles on the road, so he did it in one day. So there went my rest day. But it was probably for the best, since the only hotel charged $70 a night (and that down from $140 after we threatened to camp). <br /><br />Up at 10,000 feet it’s a whole different ball game. It reminds me of the Porkies – cooler and moister than anything else so far. I spent the whole day with my layer on, and even then I got cold on the descent. <br /><br />The descent was nuts – from 10,000 feet back down to around 6,000. I must have coasted for 25 miles or more. But all the jerking around (or maybe it was powering up a short climb in the middle of that long cold downhill) made my tendinitis flare up. So, I rolled into Abiquiu wondering if I was going to be able to ride today. <br />But, I was careful to stretch and spin today, and it held up fine. It’s a touch sore right now, but still a lot better than it was. I guess it’s just trying to teach me that despite my best efforts, a big part of this trip is out of my hands, and I just have to trust that it will work out. <br /><br />There were some interesting things to look at along the way here both days. Yesterday I saw two different single elk along the roads, and snuck up pretty close to one. Once they saw me they took off through the timber, crushing everything in their path. One went off the road at a spot so steep I would have had to crawl down on all fours to get down, but he made it somehow. <br /><br />Today the sights were more of the human variety. It never ceases to amaze me how much junk people have around here, or how many abandoned houses there are. People just pile crap anywhere, until they fill up their yard, then either move down the street and leave the works behind or pile higher. What a crazy thing. <br /><br />But, my camera crapped out yesterday, so no pics of any of this. Sad but true. I’m going to try to get Sarah to get me a new one off eBay. <br /><br />Day 13 stats: <br /><br />65 miles<br />2000 feet climbing (up & down up top)<br /><br />Day 14 stats:<br /><br />40 miles<br />3500 feet climbinghttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/thu-fri-june-1-2-days-13-14.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489018387927789Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:47:00 +00002006-08-06T11:49:43.880-07:00Saturday June 3 – Day 15Today was sort of a second ginger day to see how the knee would hold up. Turns out it did pretty well, although it got a little tight on me on one of the early climbs. But it seems like it will be fine as long as I warm up, stretch, and take it easy. But I need that full rest day – maybe 4 days from now in Del Norte. <br /><br />Tonight was sort of an emotional one for some reason. I think it’s just the isolation – I ride by myself, set up by myself, and then (usually) hang out by myself until Tim shows up, which can be awhile. Plus, working so hard every day really drains down my body and leaves me more susceptible to that sort of thing, I think. <br /><br />I think I figured out part of what’s been slowing me down – I just haven’t been eating enough. I stopped and cooked an extra lunch of easy mac today, and felt a lot stronger throughout. (Later note: by this point in the trip I’d probably lost at least 12 pounds off my 6-3, 180 pound start weight. After I started eating more, I stabilized in the high 160s.)<br /><br />Most of the ride today was open ranch country, some of it in a park with great views of the mountains. There were some shorter climbs to start the day, then some rollers once we got into the park. (One of the rollers right at the end was this super steep 400 footer with loose gravel all the way to the top. I was feeling the burn on that one.)<br /><br />Tim is having a tough time again. Even nursing that sore knee, I was an hour and a half ahead of him by lunchtime. I stopped, drank a bunch of water, cooked up some easy mac, relaxed in the shade for a bit, then he rolled in. Same thing at the campsite – I got here at 5:30 and he dragged in after 7 saying he’d gone about six miles too far. That last climb was rough, but overall today did not seem like that tough of a day. <br /><br />I looked at the map, and I think we can make it to Del Norte in two days. The second will be rough (65 miles, 40 up then 25 down) but the only other option is to do a 25 miler right in the middle. (The water is contaminated from Platoro to the top, so breaking it up into three more even sections is not an option.) I have not yet said anything about this to Tim. We’ll see how tomorrow goes. <br /><br />Day 15 stats:<br /><br />42 miles<br />3500 feet uphttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/saturday-june-3-day-15.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115489004125188993Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:46:00 +00002006-08-06T11:47:21.253-07:00Sunday June 4 – Day 16 – Chama, NMWhat a crazy day this was. Lots of action. To start off, Tim and I decided to split up and meet in Del Norte. I was going to do it in two days, then take a rest day in Del Norte. Tim would do it in three and keep going. <br /><br />So, I took off early looking for about a 50 mile day. The first part was all climbing – mostly up for about 20 miles. At about mile 22 I pushed up over the top of the last climb (including over some snowdrifts) and stopped to talk to a fellow on a dirt bike. We were shooting the breeze when a third guy comes over – a hiker. Turns out this guy was out shooting a documentary about the hikers out here. (The CDT – continental divide trail – is mostly off road but occasionally uses some of the same roads as the Divide Route.) Anyway, we talked for awhile, some of it on camera, and he filmed me struggling up the last stretch of the climb. I got his name (Mark Flagler) and took off. <br /><br />I cruised down the hill, hit the Colorado border, and got all fired up. Not a mile past the border I hear this huge BOOM and start fishtailing. Turns out the whole right side of my rear tire was blown out. So, I tried to fix it with these tire boots I had in my repair kit (they’re supposed to be able to fix stuff like this) but that didn’t work – the only thing it did was blow out one of only two spares I had. So, with the last spare I patched up the tire with tape and the boots again and pumped it up to about 15 pounds – enough to keep it rolling walking – and started pushing. <br /><br />I made it to the highway, and inexplicably turned the wrong way (first time on the trip – no lie). I was oblivious – just kept walking – but a mile or two down the road the filmmaker guy from up top stopped and picked me up. He knew the town and dropped me off at a campground where the UPS guy can find me tomorrow. <br /><br />This place is pretty much an RV park, with a couple of cabins and a spot for tents. I’m the only tent guy. Lots of retired folks are hanging about. I met a couple named Ray and Ann who gave me a camp chair to use. Brilliant!<br /><br />Day 16 stats:<br /><br />25 miles<br />3000 feet up<br />one busted tirehttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/sunday-june-4-day-16-chama-nm.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488996543968877Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:45:00 +00002006-08-06T11:46:05.440-07:00Monday June 5 – Day 16Rest day. This is a nice place – showers, laundry, and a shady place to sit. All sorts of little aches and pains are showing up, but such is life.<br /><br />I’ve been trying to catch up on my calories – I ate an entire medium pizza with crazy bread for dinner last night, six hard boiled eggs this morning, and I’m about to bust some oatmeal out here I think. There’s a library in town, so I’ll probably hit that up soon too.<br /><br />Ah, lazy day. I really needed this one.http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/monday-june-5-day-16.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488992011102960Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:43:00 +00002006-08-06T11:45:20.113-07:00Tuesday June 6 – Day 17I’m sitting out in front of the lodge waiting for the UPS guy to show. Roger (the guy who owns the place) is taking off for the bank, so I have the porch staked out. Ann says I have too much faith in the UPS guy. <br /><br />Last night I was talking to Sarah on the phone and somebody cruised by on a Cervelo road bike – I think the same one Ivan Basso rides. I didn’t get a chance to track him down just then, but this morning I ran into someone in the laundry room who happened to be his training partner’s mom. Turns out the training partner is named Caleb, and he’s on the US national team for cycling. He’s only 19, so he lives with his folks and trains…<br /><br />UPS!<br /><br />OK – now it’s nighttime. Continuing the thought – those two guys from the campground passed me like I was standing still on the way up Cumbres Pass. Then they passed me again on the way down while I was still forever and a day from the top. What a couple of animals.<br /> <br />One more note about the national team guys – last fall (I think) Bicycling magazine ran an article about American kids over in Europe racing. This Caleb was over there while the reporter was there, but with sort of a different group of guys than the reporter interviewed (Caleb was junior nationals then). <br /><br />Also – ran into a fellow by the name of Stix Largo at the DQ. Stix is an Apache, and was telling me all these stories about running expeditions a crew in his tribe used to do. He claimed that they used to run ridiculous distances – like 100 miles a day. He said they haven’t done one in awhile, though. I want to believe the guy, but 100 miles is so far it boggles the mind. Maybe the Apaches are in better shape than the Navajo – most of those guys would be lucky to run one mile – but still. Come on. <br /><br />So – the ride. I run out of things to say, because a lot stays the same. Every day I get on and drag myself and my gear up some big slope. It feels great to get up there, and the view is even better. Then I coast down. By the end of the day, I’m dog tired, sweaty and grimy, and ready to eat everything in sight. And my bum hurts. <br /><br />Today I got rolling by 2 after putting my new tire on and having a burger. And I now have a camera! So things are looking up. I got rained on somewhat on the pass, but the big rain missed me. I made it to a campground just on the other side of Horca, called Conejos and camped next to some folks from Texas (one is named Justin). They invited me over later on, so I may be forced to drink one of their beers. Mmmm… beer. <br /><br />Day 17 stats:<br /><br />35 miles<br />3000 feet up<br />some cool pictures of the trainhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/tuesday-june-6-day-17.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488981671225050Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:38:00 +00002006-08-06T11:43:36.713-07:00Monday June 7 – Day 18 – Del Norte, COI made it into town, and I’m at a restaurant/hotel called the Country Family Inn. Last night the café had all you can eat meatloaf for $7. Good deal for me, bad deal for them. Pretty good meatloaf, too. <br /><br />I was talking to the owner (Sheri Szatkowski – good Polish name if ever there was one). Turns out she’s from Wisconsin and has cousins named Korte in Clintonville. I don’t know them, but still – small world.<br /><br />The ride from Conejos may have been both my toughest and best day on a bike ever. I started out at around 8500 feet, then went over three passes – a 10,000 footer, an 11,000 footer, and the highest point on the route at just under 12,000 feet. Not bad for a stinking flatlander. By the last one my legs were burning and my hammy felt like it was going to pop. And this morning I had all kinds of little aches and pains in my knees and elsewhere. <br /><br />I met two bikers last night while I was trying to find a place to stay. They were two young kids – Mormons – who were biking across the country for their honeymoon. I told them if they still can look at each other by the time they make it to the Pacific, the rest will be downhill. (Downhill in the sense that it will be easier – downhills for bikers good.)<br /><br />Day 18 stats: <br /><br />65 miles<br />7000 feet up<br />two sore legshttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/monday-june-7-day-18-del-norte-co.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488945176332942Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:35:00 +00002006-08-06T11:37:31.766-07:00Thursday June 8 – Day 19I’m getting pretty tough out here. I did another 65 mile day today, trying unsuccessfully to catch Tim. I had to deal with a little weather – in fact, a full-on t-storm – but my luck held again. This time, the storm hit right as I was going by this big cottage with a full front porch. So I headed over there, figuring it was an omen, and man did it pour. There was somebody there, and she was a bit surly at first but after the rain quit she came out and said hi and was much friendlier. <br />Right now I’m finding out how well my tent does in a Colorado thunderstorm. It’s loud as hell, the tent poles are bending in the wind, but not a drop has come in here so far. <br /><br />I feel bad for Tim in his Wal-Mart special. I don’t know where he is exactly but I suspect is is or will rain there too. Here’s hoping your tent holds water, brother. <br />The rain is dying down. Still, I don’t think I can get to sleep with the noise. So much for my early start tomorrow. I don’t think I’m going anywhere until these roads dry out some. I’m sure glad I stopped here, that’s for sure. It’s a little higher than I’d ordinarily like (around 9700 feet) but it’s a nice sheltered spot. <br /><br />Day 19 stats:<br /><br />65 miles<br />4000 feet uphttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/thursday-june-8-day-19.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488932052895236Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:33:00 +00002006-08-06T11:35:20.530-07:00Friday, June 9 – Day 20 – Salida, COMonster miles day. I started the day pushing to try and catch Tim, and ended it flying into town on a 25-mile downgrade. All told, I did 88 miles. This blew Tim’s mind. <br /><br />Today was Tim’s last day – a good one for him too I think. He really likes being out here, but the long days on the bike got to a point where the riding just wasn’t any fun for him. Tomorrow is a rest day – his boys are going to be here around 3, and we’ll hang out and possibly drink some beers. Then I’ll be off for Silverthorne on my own.<br /><br />Our last pass today was Marshall Pass – a road built on an old railroad grade. That means it wasn’t steep, but 2500 feet over 20 miles will really put the hurting on a person. But neither of us felt like stopping on the uphill (the original plan) so we just kept going over the top and down into town. <br /><br />My bike is making a sound like a rub, but nothing’s actually rubbing. I fear it’s a bearing, but we will see. Hopefully they can just clean out the hub and it will be all good. <br /><br />Last night Tim was about 20 miles ahead of me on the other side of the climb. Over there he got more wind and less rain. I guess the tent did its best to blow loose, and he had to put rocks and stuff on it and tie it to his bike. But it did hold water – the only issue was that it had a flat spot on top so Tim had to keep pushing on it to dump the water off. Let’s hear it for the low price leader. <br /><br />Day 20 stats:<br /><br />88 miles<br />4000 feet up<br />one sore bumhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/friday-june-9-day-20-salida-co.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488922472650294Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:32:00 +00002006-08-06T11:33:44.730-07:00Saturday June 10 – Day 21 – South Park, COMy odometer went over 1000 miles today, just as I caught up with some elk. So I have a pic (I think) of the speedo with the elk in the background. (The picture didn’t turn out.)<br /><br />Today was supposed to be a rest day, but Tim’s boys called and said they were going to be late, it was looking like camp would be back into the mountains 15-20 miles, and by noon I was jonesing to be back on the bike again. So Tim and I had lunch and I headed out around 2. I did about 30 miles – mostly uphill – enough that I ought to be able to make it to Silverthorne tomorrow. <br /><br />Word to the wise – don’t eat two Chicago style hot dogs, then do a 3000 foot climb. I got stomach cramps so bad going up I thought I was going to hurl. So much for my rocket fuel. I had to stop a couple times and let things settle down, and didn’t feel right until the end of the day. <br /><br />I had to settle for camping tonight. I’m in the middle of this big open park (South Park), and it’s all private land with houses here and there. (Most of the lots are something like 10 acres.) But it got to be 8:00 and I was running out of daylight with the houses just getting closer together. Eventually, I just pulled off in a cow pasture – in view of at least one house – and set up. I’ll be out of here early in the AM, maybe before anyone notices me. <br /><br />Although this is my first official day riding solo, I’ve been riding by myself for awhile now, so it doesn’t feel that different. I did have a bit of a bad feeling in my gut riding up here (distinct from the hot dogs). But it’s clear that things turned out for the best – both for me and him. So no regrets. <br /><br />Oh, and props to Absolute Bike down in Salida. They tightened up some stuff and took the little plastic shield off my cog (that’s what was making the noise). And best of all, no charge. Word. <br /><br />Day 21 stats:<br /><br />30 miles<br />3500 feet uphttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/saturday-june-10-day-21-south-park-co.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488915063228685Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:31:00 +00002006-08-06T11:32:30.636-07:00Sunday, June 11 – Day 22 – Silverthorne, COI started south of Hartzel in bitter cold. I was up early to try to get moving before I got hassled, and to get some miles in in the cool of the day. But it was more like cold of the day – I couldn’t figure out why my fingers kept freezing as I was taking down the tent, until I picked up a waterbottle and it was more ice than water. Then I realized what the game was and crawled back in my sleeping bag until the sun started coming down into the little valley I was in. <br /><br />I had breakfast in Hartzel and headed through South Park toward Silverthorne. The park has absolutely gorgeous scenery – fourteeners all around – but the riding itself was mostly vaguely rolling stuff on wide, dusty, washboarded roads. Especially in the south end, though, it struck me as very desolate. Nice place to visit, but you’d go crazy living out here.<br /><br />I had one pass today – Boreas Pass at 11,500 feet. It was another old railroad grade, like Marshall Pass, so the way up was nice and steady. But I got heartburn again (this time with no hot dogs to blame it on) and that slowed me down quite a bit. <br /><br />On the way down I got on the bike trail from Breck to Silverthorne. Tons of people were out. I got passed by some folks who wanted to know where I was going. We talked about the route and all, and they got all fired up about it and eventually bought me a burger and a drink at this place down by the wharf. (I forget the name, but the burger was delicious.) I’m staying at a hostel on the north side of the dam, but it’s like staying in a motel because there’s no one here. <br /><br />One funny story from today – I was sitting in Como, which is this little town at the base of Boreas Pass. Up drives this fellow in a big new Toyota SUV (a Highlander I think) and asks if this is the road to Breckinridge. I say yeah, and he says, “is it paved all the way?” (The part at the bottom was.) I said no, it’s gravel, but I’m sure he’d make it through with that beast if he didn’t mind getting it a little dirty.<br /><br />I was just kidding, but he got this worried look on his face and mumbled, “I don’t know if that’s a good idea – my wife has to go to the bathroom.” And drove back to the highway. (The highway route was at least twice as far.) What a weiner. Buy yourself a Camry, homey. <br /><br />(Later note: In Montana when I was waiting for the train I stopped at a bookstore to find something for the ride. I came across a book called “Goin Railroadin’” by a fellow named Sam Speas. Turned out old Sam was an engineer on the Boreas Pass line that I rode over on my bike – known at that time as the Denver, South Park and Pacific RR – and the book had all sorts of stories about what it was like to run narrow gauge locomotives 100 years ago. Interesting stuff.)<br /><br />Day 22 stats:<br /><br />70 miles<br />3000 feet up<br />one burning hearthttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/sunday-june-11-day-22-silverthorne-co.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488904365280283Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:29:00 +00002006-08-06T11:30:43.653-07:00Monday, June 12 – Day 23 – Radium, COIf it isn’t one thing, it’s another. I put in another tough day today, and by the end my hammy tendon hurt so bad I was pretty much pedaling with one leg. It hurt a little bit yesterday, and a little bit on Ute Pass (the first big climb of the day) but on the last two climbs toward Radium it really came after me with a vengeance. Yesterday it cleared up by morning, so here’s hoping it does the same today. <br /><br />I got a late start this morning – last night the heartburn got worse and I wasn’t sure I was even going to ride today, and so I didn’t even bother to set an alarm. But I did get going around 9, got over Ute Pass by 11, and had a hot lunch on the other side of the ridge by 12. The view back from Ute Pass was breathtaking – my last good look at the Fourteeners. <br /><br />From there the route followed river valleys, with small risers that were more down than up, until I got to the Colorado. It should have been easy riding, but the wind kicked up enough to force me to pedal the long downhill grades. <br /><br />I had second lunch in Kremmling (footlong Subway meatball sub – mmm) and then climbed over the top to Radium. The 15 miles or whatever it was between Kremmling and Radium were absolutely vicious. It started out with this climb straight up the side of the hill that was so steep the semis were barely crawling past me. Once I got on top the view down into the Colorado gorge was really something. <br /><br />My campsite isn’t half bad either – right on this rushing stream with shade, and I’m in relatively early (6:30). But I’m awfully worried about that hammy – having one of these “what am I doing out here” moments. Tomorrow’s ride is 60 miles into Steamboat and (I think) either a full or half rest day. Here’s hoping the leg holds up.<br /><br />Day 23 stats:<br /><br />55 miles<br />4500 feet up<br />one burning tendonhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/monday-june-12-day-23-radium-co.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488896241833279Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:28:00 +00002006-08-06T11:29:22.420-07:00Tuesday June 13 – Day 24 – Steamboat Springs, COI made it into Steamboat today – but what a day. Climbing out of Radium was the toughest climb since the Gilas. Straight up for 2000 feet, then straight up and down on these short steep risers. The grades were so steep I had to get off and push a couple of different times – not because my tires were slipping, but just because I just didn’t have the push. <br /><br />But, the second half of the day was as easy as the first was hard. It felt like all downhill, with a little breeze from behind. I stopped at a little state park boat launch and drenched my shirt and helmet. I was tempted to just run right in, shoes and all, but restrained myself. Even with practically coasting the last 30 miles, though, the leg still gave me trouble by the end. Maybe I need to do a couple 30 mile days and get that straightened out before I try to cruise across Wyoming. <br /><br />Steamboat is about as close to the halfway point on the route as you get. (Rawlins is close too, but Steamboat works for me.) So, tonight I will celebrate with a beer and a big plate of lasagna. <br /><br />Day 24 stats:<br /><br />65 miles<br />4000 feet up<br />(still) one bum wheelhttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/tuesday-june-13-day-24-steamboat.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488889552576978Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:26:00 +00002006-08-06T11:28:15.526-07:00Wednesday June 14 – Day 25Tonight is my last night camping up high for awhile. But the spot was so good I just had to stop. It’s going to be cold, though – I can tell. The spot is just past Steamboat Lake on a FS road that is closed for another month. It’s more of a snowmobile trail anyway I think.<br /><br />I didn’t get out of Steamboat until 2, but still managed to do about 35 miles and camp up high. I think it wasn’t the miles so much as the pace that was hurting me. I can spin and go a little slow and still get 60-70 miles a day I think. <br /><br />There’s something roaring way off out on the mountain. It sounds vaguely like trumpeting – must be an elk or a moose. Here’s hoping yellow tents don’t get him all horned up. I saw a fox today – the second of the trip. (The first, strangely enough, was on the fairly well-traveled Boreas Pass coming into Breck.) This fox was more grey, where the other one was red. <br /><br />I’m camped way up high here, probably half a mile or so short of the summit in this mountain meadow/clearcut. From my tent, I can see way down the valley toward the lake and over a few ridges past that even. The sunset up here was gorgeous. It is obvious that nobody has been through here in quite some time – the road is closed, branches are down, and there are no tracks whatsoever. Rugged stuff.<br /><br />Day 25 stats:<br /><br />35 miles<br />2500 feet up<br />less sore legshttp://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/wednesday-june-14-day-25.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488879467180675Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:25:00 +00002006-08-06T11:26:34.673-07:00Thursday June 15 – Day 26One more state down – I crossed the Colorado state line today (and without any catastrophic mechanicals, either). I expected desert, and it was hot at the state line, but I actually spent most of the day in a national forest that was lush and actually a bit chilly. I had my layer on pretty much all day. I wonder what the country on the other side of Rawlins will be like. It may not be all that warm, especially if this weather pattern holds. <br /><br />Despite the balky hammy, which gave me some problems again today, I managed to put together a pretty long day. The first 30 miles were mostly down, through dense pines on what was basically a washed out snowmobile trail. I saw more elk and some big birds of some sort (cranes?) on the way down. From there, it was 20 miles up on a surprisingly tough pavement climb. Then up on top it was mostly short, steep risers. By the end I was cold, sore, and it was starting to rain, so I just set up camp here pretty much right on the side of the road. Quite a few cars have gone by, but nobody bothers me. It’s definitely a change for the worse from yesterday, though. <br /><br />Day 26 stats:<br /><br />70 miles<br />2500 feet up<br />one sore hammy (again)http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/thursday-june-15-day-26.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28172495.post-115488873801137791Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:23:00 +00002006-08-06T11:25:38.013-07:00Friday June 16 – Day 27 – Rawlins, WYToday was a half day – 35 miles and into Rawlins. Most was on pavement, but with a lot of sharp ups and downs that made it tough to get into a rhythm. But I made it by 11:30 – just in time to hit up the Pizza Hut pizza buffet. I ate until it hurt, then waited until I had a little bit of room and ate some more. Then when I went looking for a hotel room I had to walk the bike – I was so stuffed that there would have been a pizza on the sidewalk had I tried to ride. <br /><br />Surprisingly enough, all of the hotels with vaguely respectable names (like Quality Inn – is that even vaguely respectable?) were about $80. The RV parks were 4 miles away on the other side of town, and I wanted to get out of the wind, so eventually I ended up at this place called the Key Inn -- $40 flat for the room. But no ESPN, so I had to watch my World Cup en espanol. This Key Inn was quite the place – the sign said no vacancy, the fellow who gave me the key came out from the back room at 1 PM with rumpled hair and a white T-shirt with holes in it, and this (very nice) woman who looked like she had danced around a pole from time to time in the past was cleaning the rooms. May God bless cheap motels and the USA. <br /><br />Also – I stopped at Murray’s, this little bike shop in town, and tried to work on my hand problems. I’ve been having some numbness since Steamboat. I got a new pair of gloves, although they didn’t have any good ones, and wrapped some rubber from busted tubes around my bar ends. Hopefully that will help. <br /><br />Day 27 stats:<br /><br />35 miles<br />1500 feet up (all little risers)<br />40 antelope (from the forest line)http://dividetrip.blogspot.com/2006/08/friday-june-16-day-27-rawlins-wy.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Mike)0