BEHR Premium Plus Ultra Paint And Primer In One

BEHR has defied the convention of laying a coat of primer before a coat of paint by combining both these products in one can. BEHR’s new Premium Plus Ultra paint supposedly cuts your painting time in half by eliminating the priming and drying stage.

You can choose a flat, satin, eggshell, or semi-gloss finish, for interior or exterior, and you can tint it to all colors just like their standard paint. BEHR claims that by combining the paint and primer into one product, the color lasts longer without fading, and it provides a better foundation for touch-ups.

I used Behr Ultr Paint and Primer in one for the first time. It will certainly be the last.
It covered the wall sure, but patchy,shiny here, dull there, rough in area’s. No excuses, the walls were perfect, prep was perfect, have been painting professionally for years. This stuff just doesn’t pass.

I just finished painting the exterior of my house. I used the Behr with the primer in a red covering white. After 3 coats it still looks bad. Light and dark places as well as shinny and dull area’s. I payed $40 a gallon for this crap. I could have gotten this from a $20 can of glidden.

Bought the same Bear Ultra with paint and primer, also not a stranger to painting with good paint (Ralph Lauren, Sears, Martha Stewart), this was on sale at Home Depot. NEVER AGAIN! Extra time needed to put on second coat!!

UGHHH!!! This was horrible! Figured I’d save time by purchasing Behr paint. I am going to have to buy another gallon just to cover up the see through areas. Same thing with me…shiny some places, dull in others. This stuff def does not provide full coverage. What a rip off!! Truly disappointed. I will never buy BEHR paint again.

I am 68 yrs and have painted a lot of walls. I recently tried Behr Marquis and premium plus. Garbage! The watery crap cost me nothing but nightmares. If you know a contractor go to Sherwin Williams and get the 200.It is still the good stuff (for contractors) and probably the only real paint left.

Personally, I don’t think this would work all that well, I just found it interesting enough to write about. I am a traditional believer in a solid base coat of Kilz primer followed by Sears EasyLiving/Weatherbeater Ultra paints. They’ve been on this house since the previous owners bought it in the 60’s and they’ll still be on this house when I die or move out, whichever comes first.

They don’t make that good latex paint and the good oil base primer that stuck and stretched like it did in the 60s I used on my new house porch and rails Behr premium plus primer in one now I am having to paint again after 4 yrs I am not usings behr paint again. Lee

Just finished painting two rooms for a friend using this paint. I thought it went on quite well with excellent coverage. Really did cover in one coat. Did I do it in half the time than if I have primed then painted? Took me about 4 hours to cut in and roll 4 walls of a 10×12 room. Yes I would use it again

I’m curious, for those of you who say you have used BEHR paints in the past, how many of you have used this particular kind with the paint and primer in 1? I’m very curious as to the success rate of the combined paint and primer setup.

This is the first time I have used Paint and Primer( there are two formulas of this FYI) Premium Plus,
and did a custom match,
it has not worked out so well. But I have always loved Behr and think it is this “NEW” Behr Premium Plus” Not the first one that has made this difference for me..
I think we all need to keep in mind the difference in our homes and climates and lifestyles. We also now have a smoker in our home along with our ventilation was not working with out our knowledge.
we all have different expectations. Behr is Guaranteed 100% take it back and buy what you want. I am very glad for the reviews. I am wondering if any one has ever used an interior exterior inside their home in Western Oregon. I think it made us sick??? This was*** Not a Premium Pus***

re: Scott’s comment. Contractor grade and other marketing crap like that just throws up an immediate red flag for me. In this particular case, two coats of paint is two coats of paint, I’ve yet to see a product that covers in one coat. You can use primer, then topcoat, or you can use two coats of top.

I’m not saying that this revolution will never happen, but something tells me it won’t come from a discount house brand initially.

I’m in the middle of painting my house with Lowes’s Valspar Duramax, which also claims to be self priming and have one coat coverage. I’m painting over asbestos cement shingles (which take paint extremely well) and am only doing one coat with no priming and its working great. It might not last as long as doing one primer and then two top coats, but if I do one coat now, and then another coat in ten years. I’m still ahead of doing three total coats now, and I can change the color in ten years if I want.

I would be very interested to hear what a paint chemist has to say about such a system. I never use water based paints, but then again, I’m painting on steel for outdoor use. I use an alkyd resin base coat since steel flexes slightly and an alkyd resin dries with a slight rubbery flex. Only then do I use sign painters’ enamels on top. Don’t prime with enamels–they are too brittle and will flack off anything that flexes slightly (look at lady’s fingernail polish as an example–nails flex slightly, fingernail paint does not.)

I tried the Behr out on a shed I built last spring. The trim was pine and the sides cement plank siding. So far I have been very pleased with it. It doesn’t get a lot of moisture here (Arizona) however the color has lasted well under the sun so far ……. Long term. we’ll see.

It’s just a gimmick. Priming is required based on what sufaces you are painting period. Just about all latex paints or the premium ones are self priming depending on the situation. This was even stated on the Sherwin Williams cans years ago. Until I can see test of the paint on various surfaces/applications, it just a marketing trick to make you think you don’t need to primer.

Also you should always use two coats of paint even if the paint is 1 coat coverage. This will build a better foundation for the paint and will last for years

Last time I painted we did the up stairs of the house, with was about 15 gallons of paint (7.5 , 2 coats) We used what we had laying around and what family had for hardware. It sucked.

I bought the cheapest rollers that home depot had in 3/8″ nap. I think they’re ‘work force’ brand? anyway, they left a lot of lint. I started rolling the roller up with tape a few times, and pull it off vigorously to remove would be lint. still ended up with more than i cared for in the paint.

First, i painted my office in my basement, i used the Purdy Rollers. They claim to be reusable, but we’ll see… I keep mine loaded with paint over night in a plastic bag sealed around the roller frame, and reload the next day. I found the Purdy rolllers a little better than the el-cheap-o’s.

I bought Sherwin-Williams Poly/Wool covers this time for the biggest portion. Wow. They were amazing. No loading on the ends of the roller, no crazy dog hairs left behind. And after 2 coats the roller marks look much more even.

That’s what I’ve found. I am no expert.

Also i picked up a nicer roller frame from Wooster. It has a well balanced handle directly in the middle, i found that nicer than the again el-cheap-o ones we had laying around.. being my wife’s 7 months pregnant I’m painting 1800 sq/ft alone at night, so making it easier on me was the goal.

Removing popcorn ceiling texture and wallpaper. Now down to the drywall. This is a very small powder bath. I want to paint the cabinets (dark color) and the walls/ceiling in lighter. I am very interested in this type paint for the whole project. Anybody have an opinion?

I recommend Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation for the cabinets. It was easy. It took a little time to wait for it to dry, but not as messy and finish is smooth. The actual color has milky texture(2) coats and then the lacquer type finish. I am going to use it on my trim and doors when I paint them the next time.

Just FYI.. BEHR has been rated number #1 in CR for several years in a row.
They dont just give that rating out for fun. If you have ever painted a wall in a dark red you will understand. Dry time is crucial with translucent colors but BEHR’s new Premuim Plus Ultra will cover in 2 coats with most colors. Other brands can take at least 4-5 coats. Try it! You will be impressed. I agree with the other comments that you should always apply a second coat regardless if the first coat looks fine. You get a true and more durable finish. Always use quality rollers and brushes!

Good paint, but bad rebates. We’re having our home interior remodeled combining an old formal LR into the FR to make an open-barn like space. Old paint mixed with new drywall, etc. I’ve been looking at color combos and interior design, and finally got the look I wanted to try. Now I’m reading about paint. I appreciate you bringing this up because I just spent an enjoyable hour at the Behr site desinging colors and reading about this new paint. Very fun! And I’ve used Behr in the past (with Kilz! as the top coat) with great success, especially over old wood paneling. I think their paint is o.k. if you buy the mid-range price, and I like their eggshell satins.

What I do NOT like are the rebate sells, I’ve got suckered on those twice, followed every rule to get my rebate, and have still not been paid. I’ve never had so much trouble with any company honoring a rebate system. So beware if you deal with Behr. And Home Depot even prints out a 2nd receipt to make applying for the Behr rebates easier. Yeah right. Forget the rebates and just give me a plain old sale any day.

Lorrie and anyone else using a rebate for paint/stain: I work for a major rebate fulfillment company. We do rebates for many paint/stain companies and retailers. While I agree that I would prefer to just see a sale price, I can tell you with all confidence and honesty that a miniscule portion of submissions are rejected. The rebates are there either as a promotion to get the consumer to try a product or to reward them for brand loyalty, not to grab price shoppers.

The most common reason for rejection would be failure to comply with the terms. That would include:
1)not purchasing within the promotion dates
2)not sending required documentation (if it says original receipt or UPC, send it!)
3)missing the final postmark date
4)submitting for more than the allowed number of items
5)ALWAYS keep a copy of your entire submission.

So, if you are purchasing with the intent of submitting a rebate, read all of the instructions BEFORE YOU BUY. If the rebate requires the UPC from the can, CUT IT OFF BEFORE YOU PAINT. A lot of the UPC’s are obliterated by the paint running down the can. This will negate your submission. If you aren’t willing to do what is asked, then don’t even bother submitting. Can’t begin to tell you how many people throw away a can or won’t send an original receipt, etc. The rules are there to prevent fraud, and are set by the manufacturer or retailer. We just follow their rules.

Re:
JoJo Says:
Can’t begin to tell you how many people throw away a can or won’t send an original receipt, etc
———
Don’t you just love when the manufacturers have a rebate that requires an original receipt and then they also state that they will not honor their warranty without an original receipt also. Sounds like some pretty shifty dealing to me, get a small rebate for them to get out of honoring their warranty.

I just called Home Depot to find out if I could get my money back for the paint plus primer I bought that is not worth the time or money. I was painting one wall candy apple red over white and usually use a pink tinted primer for such a job. Beware. The paint professional at Home Depot talked me into buying the all in one paint with primer, saying that the coverage would be better, needing only two coats total and it would do everything that a primer would do–stain coverage and even saturation. I have painted three coats already and I am hoping that two more will do the job right. It does not cover pen marks or go on evenly. I still have splotches and marks. I could have painted the entire room instead of just this one wall and I do not like what I see. I was skeptical, but wanted to save time. Ha! Do not buy this junk. It costs $32.00 a gallon and I am so upset over the loss of time on this job. If I don’t get it right, my client will think it is the painter and not the paint. Hate it. I will buy Benjamine Moore from now on.

Problem is not the paint..its the bad info given to you. Only certain red colors cover in 2 coats. Here is a little hint. When you look at the Behr color chip, look next to the color name. If you see a little dagger/cross it means that tinted primer is required. The Ultra is a great product, but it isn’t perfect. Some colors still require the tinted primer first.

Thanks for that tip, Eric, you saved me a possible nightmare. Problem is, when I pointed out the “dagger” symbol to the clerk @ HD, he mixed the correct primer color but then informed me the finish color was only available in the combo product! I wound up with a decent job, but with an awful lot of paint on the walls. The stuff is very thick, and thinning is not recommended.

If you are painting any hue of dark red or a bright red, there is a pink tinted primer/sealer to go with it regardless of brand. All bright/dark reds are mixed into a deep base enamel topcoat paint and the red pigments used are translucent. That is why a pink tinted primer/sealer goes on first as a base coat, and then 2 or 3 coats of the deep base enamel finish. As for Behr Ultra paint, I talked to the Home Depot paint pros here in Bakersfield, CA. They say for red colors there is a pink tinted primer coat needed first and it is mixed into a medium base of Behr Ultra. This info comes up automatically when the paint pro keys in the color name on their paint computer system.

Similar tinted primers do not work as well as primers tinted to medium to dark grays, regardless of whether they are deep blues, reds, purples, etc. The deep colors are made using translucent type bases (less white/titanium dioxide) to support more pigment. Being more translucent, whites or lighter versions of the color are more apparent through the paint film (coating thickness). Using a gray primer, the gray tends to absorb some of the light that would typically reflect of a white/lighter color on the underside of your top coat.

Just to toss in a few clarifications about many of the statements made in previous posts. This blog was ment to be for the new Behr Paint and Primer in one. I myself do work at a paint store. I undergo various tests in staying updated on current qualities of products, as well as additional levels of on hands testing with products. Lately the big question is “Do you carry a paint, like the Behr Paint and primer in one?”. After having done a bit of researching myself, and becoming somewhat aquainted with this, my findings and test are this. There is a difference in a “paint and primer in one” and a “self-priming” paint. A self priming paint typically goes on 3-4mil thick while wet. These paints have actual primer technology which assures added adhesion for the paint. We all know that latex paints are water based. The soul function of the water is to get the paint ingredients to the surface. Thus when the paints dry, they leave about a 1.5mil film. Now the “paint and primer in one” is a clever marketing technique. There is nothing new and or different about this paint than the top of the line paints you find at home improvement stores. What they state at Behr is, “Use BEHR PREMIUM PLUS ULTRA™ as a primer for repaired or uncoated surfaces. Lock in stains with the first primer coat; if necessary, apply a second primer coat of BEHR PREMIUM PLUS ULTRA.
For best performance with heavy stains and watermarks use a product such as BEHR ENAMEL UNDERCOATER PRIMER & SEALER NO. 75.”

So what does that say? Use the paint “as” a primer coat, and if needed, apply a second coat. There is no priming properties about this paint. It’s simply a clever way of selling the product. I am in no way stating the paint is no good, or won’t give you a nice look in 1 coat. My post is to show there is NO substitution for a good coat of actual primer, and then top coat with paint. Applying a primer first, then your paint is the best way to get superior adhesion, and lasting performance from your paints.

In response to what jack said above about your red paints… Red colors are transluscent pigments, as well as many of the bright yetllow, blues, and greens. These colors, regardless of paint quality, will need more than one coat. The better the quality of paint, the fewer the coats. However, i disagree with jack about using a pink tinted primer for an undercoater. Using a pink primer under a red, will only reflect a different shade in your top coat. If you want to get the best, most true look from any reds, bright yellows, lime greens, and bright blues, have your primer tinted a shade of gray. Gray Is a neutral color and will reflect the top coats true color back. Try this. take a piece of sheetrock, prime part of it with white, part with a medium gray primer, and use 2 coats of a red paint over unprimed sheetrock. The portion primed gray will be the truest color, and will use less coats than any other procedure.

In conclusion, it’s always best to use a primer under your paint. Two coats of paint are not the same thing as priming, and if you think of it on a cost look. You will use twice as much of this undoubtedly pricy paint, than if you buy a primer and paint.

My contractor just finished painting two rooms with this paint. I bought it because I thought it would save him time. He painted one room almond color and the living room red. He complained about the red paint, that it did not roll on nicely. He had to do two coats, and that room had been pained a couple of times before, so no primer was really needed. The satin finish is very shiny and almost looks like semigloss. It has an “orange peel” look. It shows all the drywall problems and now we have to do something to fix that. I would not recommend this paint to anyone. The almond color went on nicely with one coat over new drywall. The contractor liked it and it looks smooth. I would like another coat of the almond color over new drywall anyway. I will probably have to do that myself as the contractor is done today. I usually buy Sears paint and I am going back to that brand.

I have always used Behr paint. For this project, I too, was talked into the paint plus primer as I was working with a shade of red paint. I hate this paint! I agree with Barbara in that it shows ALL the drywall problems! The paint did not roll on smoothly and took about 48 hours for the paint to feel dry despite having the house closed up and the air conditioning cranked up. Removing the tape, the paint is pulling away from the walls and feels like rubber. We are coat four and the walls are finally starting to appear even. DO NOT BUY THIS Paint plus Primer.

The ONLY reason this product covers better is 2 new tints used for this product only. If youve noticed, all HD stores got new tint machines. This is becuz they needed room for the new high hiding tints(exterior red and magenta)…. So this isnt some “magical” new thing, it is simply a high quality paint with better tints(when doing a red). Other than that, its a marketing gimmick….suckers.

You people are idiots. #1 – it’s not the BRAND of paint showing your drywall problems -it’s the level of gloss. You can go whining to Behr or SW or Ben.Moore or whoever – it won’t matter.

Anything other than FLAT paint is going to show every defect in your drywall UNLESS you have your walls finished to what sheetrockers consider a “level 5” finish… meaning the entire surface has to be putty-coated (skim-coated) – like plaster.

If you hired a quality painter instead of “Joe Handyman” – he’d tell you the truth. But you won’t because you’re cheap homeowner- DIYers who think you’re saving a buck to hire a scab.

Even though your post is rather condescending, here are some comments on it.

I AGREE that the finish is crucial in hiding imperfections. Flat hides best, and avoids annoying light reflections.
HOWEVER I asked for flat finish in this combo primer+paint, and only after spendign $100+, 8 hrs and 2 coats, I found it dries with a slight sheen (between flat and satin). I won’t even go on about the orange peel finish.
When confronted, the HD clerk admitted “oh yes, it’s actually ‘flat enamel’ and it does have a slight sheen”.
Well, never again with this ‘combo’ crap.

I have been using Behr paints for years with mixed results, depending on the color/conditions of the walls. Usually I prime over with Kilz to ensure I get the color of the topcoat stays true. This time I thought I’d try Behr’s new all-in-one primer paint. I was very disappointed. The coverage for a first coat was worse than with their regular paint, which is signficantly cheaper! Out of the four walls, the only one that covered half-way decently was the wall that had been primed with Kilz. It’s definitely going to need two coats all the way around. Not worth the extra money or “time savings.”

I have been using Behr paints for years with mixed results, depending on the color/conditions of the walls. Usually I prime over with Kilz to ensure I get the color of the topcoat stays true. This time I thought I’d try Behr’s new all-in-one primer paint. I was very disappointed. The coverage for a first coat was worse than with their regular paint, which is signficantly cheaper! Out of the four walls, the only one that covered half-way decently was the wall that had been primed with Kilz. It’s definitely going to need two coats all the way around. Not worth the extra money or “time savings.”

I have used Behr paint in the past, and found it acceptable. I hate to paint, so when I had new drywall installed, I thought of using Behr Premium Ultra. I bought 14 gallons in various colors to do walls and ceilings. This stuff is no good. Instead of “cutting painting time in half” as the advertisement states, I had to paint my ceilings and walls up to four coats — and still the roller marks showed through. I tried different naps of rollers, and even went to Lambs Wool rollers, but the results were the same. I complained to Behr, and got a refund. Don’t buy into the “easy” approach of primer and paint in one. Each one has a specific function. Do the two steps, and you should be much happier with the results.

I have used this paint a lot and it works great. I have come to the conclusion that the only time that I should use a seperate primer is if oil base primer is the best call. As far as one coat coverage – the can recommends 2 coats and if anyone who is worth their weight knows 2 coats is always a much better paint job. As far as red coverage goes make sure that the color you have is using their new tints. To say that Behr is inferior to paint store brands because it is sold in a big box is purely false. Painters tend to be loyal to their paint store because of the huge discounts that they get off the retail price. So of course they want to sell you on those brands.

I wanted to paint our walls in our basement. They are wood paneling. I was told that I should only need one quote with the Behr Premium Plus Ultra. My husband is planning on starting the project this weekend. I was wondering if anone had any info on weather this will work as Home Depot stated. I am expecting a baby in two weeks and we would like to save time but I don’t want to end up with more than a hassle with several coats.

Kristen – It will depend on your color. 2 coats always will give you a better paint job, that being said you will be skipping the primer step. “Normal” paint job requires 1 coat primer 2 coats of paint.

I just spent almost 2 days painting a small bedroom and closet using the Behr Ultra paint. The room was hot. The ac didnt work well I used 2 fans to cool it down and a couple of 250 watt halogen lights to see better.

Ive never used a more sticky hard to roll paint in my life. I usually use mid grade Duron paint and never have a flow problem. To get this Ultra paint to flow I overloaded the roller and it worked ok but afterward it had runs all over the place. Even with this overloading the paint did not cover in 1 coat.
I cut in the corners before I rolled and the edges never did lay flat. I had to press hard to get the roller to roll smooth. The paint left roll marks that seldom leveled out.

Painting the base trim was pure hell. The paint was a semi gloss. I used a new Purdy angled brush. I loaded the brush as usual. Laid the brush on the edge and started what I thought would be a nice long strke as usual. I got about 2 or 3 inches and the paint stopped flowing. I retraced my stroke and still no paint. Ive never had this problem and Ive painted thousands of square feet of wall surface.

I checked with 3 different Home Depot paint salesman and they said they never heard of this problem. Never offered solutions. I mentioned maybe thinning with water. They just told be how many people have been buying the paint and they never heard of this problem.
I called Sherwin Williams, after brief explanation of my problem he told me that the primer/paints display the problems. I experienced. He told me that 2 products FLOETRON and LATEX XTENDER should help with my problems. He said the heat and fans were probably making my problems worse. What a difference in sales persons.
Are you guys lying about how great this paint is or do you just not know better.

Ive never used a worse speading paint or a messier paint in my life.
I would like to see if anyone has anything to add to this.

Behr paint is very thick, for sure. Ive used Behr for a long time, so I’m used to it – but I discovered floetrol recently, and added just a splash to this combo product on a desk (not more than 10% of your total paint amount) and it does help with the flow and work-ability -I haven’t tried the paint primer combo on walls, so I cant speak to that, but it seems it would be really thick, and maybe challenging to get a smooth finish

Barry, I found the same when applying this product with a brush, in semi gloss AND satin: it is similar to spreading butter; material sticks to the brush and flops off onto finished work; where you put the brush down AND lift up displays a gouge mark, you have to run a continuous brush stroke the entire length of the door. Material sets up way too fast and thick; and after a very few seconds a second pass will pill and ball. I am an amateur but have pretty good brush technique. I will try the floetrol. I have always used Behr but they don’t seem to offer paint without primer anymore.

I can honestly say that I work for HD, and have had the Ultra in our store for about a month. I have not had one complaint yet! Yes if you use cheap rollers you will have problems, thats a given. So many people try to take the cheap way out but yet want the look of a professional job, thats not going to happen. No where does it state that the ULTRA is a one coat coverage, your just hearing what you want from the commercial! Its meant to be less coats. Most people I recoment primer to dont use it, and end up sometimes doing 3 to 5 coats depending on the color. If they were to do the same color in the Ultra those coats would go down to 2-4. But like I said it depends on the color. Use the paint you want, whether it be SW, BM, Valspar ect. Everyone is going to have their own opinion on what they like. I have people that will only use Ralph Lauren and by my opinion its no good. There are 8oz samples available, test out, see what you think!!!

Due to past bad experience, I swore I would never use Behr paint again. However, not wanting to take the time to prime my door before painting, I decided (against my better judgement) to try the new Behr paint/primer combination. After a few months, the paint is cracked and falling off. OK… that seals it… I will never buy Behr paint (or stain) ever again!

Just put my second coat of Behr with primer. Looks like I just finished the first coat. The paint didn’t cover well at all. I was told from a few people that reds and yellows are the hardest paints to get good coverage. My daughter’s room is red. I am going on to my 3rd coat, had to stay with the same primer base as changing base may not match color. Maybe need four or more coats before this is all over. A one day project is now going on to 3 days. Don’t know that this is a time saver. Would not use this primer paint again (gun shy).

I am sworn off Behr paints. The stuff is just downright no good. I did 2 bedrooms in Behr and anywhere fabric would touch the wall (bed linens, curtains, etc) the color was ‘rubbing’ off. Could it be any less colorfast? Regular stuff covers like you’re painting milk on the walls. Have not used the new ultra.

I later used SWP Duration, which works pretty good. Grandaddy of them all is Benjamin Moore Aura. 55$ a gallon might seem expensive but I swear I get probably 3x the coverage of Behr and probably 1.5x the coverage of SWP Duration so when you factor in your time its probably cheaper.

I just completed my first interior paint project using Behr Premium Plus Ultra. I painted my daughters 12×12 room, using 1 gallon of “Moss Print”. Unfortunately, since this is my first project, I don’t have other paints to compare this to. However, I am very pleased with the outcome. I put on 2 coats, and cut-in in about 4 hours total. The satin finish is very nice, and the color dried evenly. I am anticipating my next project, and I will never buy anything other than Behr Ultra.

DO NOT BUY/USE BEHR PREMIUM PLUS ULTRA (paint and primer in one)!!!! My daughter works at Home Depot and was told this paint would work great on latex painted walls. I am a 51 yr old disabled single woman who has owned this home 20 years. I have never seen a paint perform so poorly! My duagher and I are painting a bedroom for her. After painting and dry time, pulled off the tape at the ceiling and a big chunk peeled off the wall…and not just the Behr paint, it removed the previous 4 coats, the knockdown treatment and I have a bare spot that is down to the drywall!!! I don’t need this grief, I am in pain 24/7, have a load of medical issues and now have to deal with this mess??!! For now on, its Valspar at Lowes for me. Dad has used Valspar for years without issues, but since my daughter works at Home Depot, she was told this paint was the greatest. Oh, and one coat coverage? That is a joke! We are going to have to apply a second coat because of bleed through (painting medium pink over light green) and it WILL NOT be Behr that I use!! Now as far as the area where al the coats of paint peeled off including the knock down treatment, leaving drywall exposed – even that paper wants to come off…I am so upset beyond words!!! I will seek getting my money back on the product to use toward repairing the damage Behr paint caused.

I would like to paint my kitchen cabinets – they are mdf and were originally sprayed with I think an oil-based semi gloss paint. Not sure they were ever primed – edges of cabinet doors would indicate they were not. Is this Behr paint/primer product a good choice for previously painted kitchen cabinets? I’d like to repaint with an enamel based latex paint, and then glaze them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I am spraying my interior trim in place with Behr primium plus ultra interior semigloss and am finding it a nightmare. I was having good luck using regular Primium Plus and adding Floetrol. I needed another gallon of paint and was talked into buying the paint by a HD sales person who had had good luck brushing it on with minimal brush strokes in the dried finish. If I put enough paint down to get a smooth finish. The frustrating thing, is that it will run after it sets on the trim for a half hour. I think they added something to retard drying so that the paint levels better when brushing. Makes it useless for spaying.

I am spraying my interior trim in place with Behr primium plus ultra interior semigloss and am finding it a nightmare. I was having good luck using regular Primium Plus and adding Floetrol. I needed another gallon of paint and was talked into buying the paint by a HD sales person who had had good luck brushing it on with minimal brush strokes in the dried finish. If I put enough paint down to get a smooth finish, it will run. Less paint it comes out bumpy. The frustrating thing, is that it will run after it sets on the trim for a half hour. I think they added something to retard drying so that the paint levels better when brushing. Makes it useless for spaying.

Primer is totally different from paint. Skipping this step causes problems eventually. As someone who has sold paint for over 30 years, I recommend that it is worth doing this right- prep, prime, two topcoats, ONE TIME. Use the best tools (brush , rollers) you can afford. Otherwise, you risk failure and more work to correct the problem. This is a marketing gimmick- the Behr product is thick and heavy-bodied, but there is no primer in it. These days, people want to take shortcuts and do projects easier. There is no sense in doing something wrong over and over again.

Home depot I despise, so I am leery of any claims they might make to have discovered some new “breakthru.” Whether you can cover in one coat depdends upon 1) the difference in colors, and 2) the quality of the paint. Some models cover very well with one coat. Now why would anyone want to prime a wall that’s already painted, which is true in 99.9% of Harry Homeowner cases? I generally paint two coats , regardless of whether the first coat covered completely or not. Two coats will last a lot longer than one coat, so it just makes sense that if you went to all the work of prepping and getting ready to paint, you paint another coar. Primer , especially water based primer, is crappy stuff. I wouldn’t put it into paint for any reason.
I never have problems hiding, even with less than ultra grade paints, mainly because color changes are almost always slight – no one goes from arctic white to blood red. Doesn’t happen.

There is no claims of a “break through”. They are simply using a marketing gimmick to help increase their dollar amount. Alot of you should read what I posted previously about half way up. I’ve work with paint daily, and do my research, as well as personal testing. I don’t always live by what the can says, until i’ve tested variations for myself. As i’ve stated, and mark as well… There is NO substitution for a good coat of Primer, then pant. Always use premium quality brushes and roller covers for best results. When you mask off an area with tape, make sure to always use a new sharpe razor edge, preferably a precision knife, to gently slice the paint from the tape before removing. Otherwise you may end up removing a portion of your paint from the wall before it’s had time to cure.. Always note that regardless of how dry your paint feels, it takes at least 7 days for it to fully cure to the wall. Allow even longer in high humidity..

I painted bathroom cabinets with the primer/paint and couldn’t be more pleased with the results. The cabinets were cheap, old and ugly. I painted them a dark brown and it looks so good. I guess it would probably look good just painting them but I was hoping to get a better look. The wood grain on the door shows through which is fine, but I think I would use regular primer first-then Sherwinn -Williams paint over it if I wanted to get rid of the grainy look.

As for what kent beuchert says “…color changes are almost always slight – no one goes from arctic white to blood red. Doesn’t happen.” Well, yes it does happen. In fact, that’s exactly what I’m doing now. My kitchen it painted a bright white and has white cabinets. Too much white. So I’m painting the walls a bright “blood red”. So, will this new Behr paint be a good choice for me? Or just use a gray primer first and then any other brand of red paint?

JoJo wrote about paint rebates: “A lot of the UPC’s are obliterated by the paint running down the can. This will negate your submission.”
You don’t have to worry about this with Behr Ultra. The paint doesn’t even stick to the paper on the can. In fact, it doesnt stick to paint liners also – so you can peel it all off and use it again. Be careful, it doesn’t adhere to many surfaces. Be very careful using this paint. My experience with both light and dark colors – color and uniformity are good. Adhesion is terrible. Nothing like good prep – clean, prime, and paint. using Behr Ultra to skip a step was the worst painting mistake of my life – 21 cabinets to be redone after i peeled the Ultra off – in sheets. Some of you have commented as such and many have obviously not tested their adhesion yet.
And the paint can says good for Metal, plastic, etc, etc. I find it difficult to believe that Behr does not understand Ultra’s deficiencies.

Again- skipping proper surface preparation and priming is a recipe for failure, no matter what time you are trying to save. As the old saying goes, “anything worth doing is worth doing well”. Successful painting is no different.

i love behr preium plus ultra im a painting contractor and have used every brand of paint.this paint covers the best and gives the best finish.i wont use anything else even though its a bit more expensive

We are in the midst of using Behr all in one paint and primer for the first time. We have always been a fan of Behr paint till now.I even bought the rollers they recommended for the job ! If you are using a brush fot getting in close places, plan on at least two and sometimes 3 coats to cover. They claim this paint will save work for the painter, but so far, we have had to repaint many places that did not cover. Very disapointing.We have painted our homes for more than 40 years so we do have the know how about painting. Our walls were off white and we are painting a light gold. I will NOT buy this paint again. All this extra work for paint that claims to cover all. Don’t beleive it. I would be interested to hear more responses from people about this.

I purchased the Behr paint with primer mixed in when it was on sale over Labor Day weekend. I purchased 15 gallons so that I could do the entire house. I loved the color and thought it went on well, but after painting only three walls over a period of a few weeks and allowing overnight drying time between the two coats, the paint started peeling off the walls like fruit rollups off the wax paper. I was painting over a sage green paint with an eggshell finish. Behr kindly agreed to refund the cost of the paint, but now I have the trouble and expense of peeling it off all the walls and starting again – I haven’t yet decided on an brand.

The paint and primer all in one is the worst stuff we have ever used.Husband has painted our house, daughters house and never had trouble with regular behr paint. Doing other daughters house,previous owner had a rose color on kitchen wall repainting it yellow.Bought paint an primer all in one started putting one coat on bled through hubby stopped and primered the whole wall, then painted with all in one paint and still bled through, so he had to put another coat on. Not worth the money when you have to primer first also.

Elizabeth-While I am not a fan of Behr- The peeling paint was definitely not their fault…you have surface preparation issues that need to be fixed…you will have the same problem with any other Paint. There is no paint on the market today that would fail as you have indicated…even that low end Behr paint

I have mixed reviews- we did one room with this paint in a dark green and it turned out terrific and went on very smoothly. A larger room we did in the “baked scone” off-white color- it leaves very clear roller marks and it doesn’t seem to matter how much paint is on the roller. We have done two coates and it is still clearly striped. We got a different version and are planning a third coat. One HD salesman said to use longer roller strokes. The other said to use shorter roller strokes for this paint. Pretty frustrating. Overall no complaints against Behr paints otherwise.

I usually use Sherwin William paint but seen the commercials for the “Behr Premium Plus ultra.” I decided to give it a try because it was going to cut the time in half and i didnt have to prime first. This was the WORST paint EVER!! It did not cover good, i had to put 4 coats of paint on each wall, and 2 on the ceiling that was off white already. I do not reccomend this paint at all. I was very disappointed.

I have put 2 coats of Behr Plus semi-gloss on a wooden bed and have to put a third. I hate it. I sanded the previously-painted surface thoroughly. I tried putting it on thick, putting it on thin. I tried painting across the grain then going over it with the grain. It dries too quickly. Impossible to go back over brush marks. It loads up on edges and then pulls off when I try to smooth it out. I am not a pro but i have done a lot of painting. My husband likes regular Behr, I guess I should have stuck with that.

i’ve used behr paint in the past and have been satisfied with it. I tried the premium plus ulta/primer in the paint over the weekend and it was terrible. very watery with poor coverage. the selection of colors was limited, too. i wouldn’t use it again but i’d use the regular behr paint. for the record, i like valspar (lowe’s) best and then benjamin moore. glidden isn’t bad either.

Hi folks. We just finished our first coat using Behr “paint and primer” in one. Here’s the reality.
We had very dark greenish brown walls and ended up choosing a lighter more “sagey” green to paint. Based on what we were told at Lowe’s, we purchased a Valspar muti-purpose primer to lay down first. Priming was the worst experience we’ve had so far. It was hard to roll on, uneven, and the fumes almost knocked us out but we finished and the room was mostly a super primer white. There was one area we didn’t primer and figured we do it after settling on the green we liked. We returned the unused can to Lowe’s and went over to Home Depot.
We purchased the Behr Premium Ultra Paint and Primer and layed on the first coat. Guess what??? The area that we didn’t prime LOOKS FABULOUS! The area we DID prime? Yeah.. that’s gonna need 2 coats (we hope only 2!!). In this case, the primer actually made the job WORSE. The Behr paint went on the un-primed areas just fine, but primed areas were so white that they cut through and will definitely require a second coat. Our advice? Get a sample of the Behr and paint a 3×3 square BEFORE deciding to prime. You may like what you find.

The paint and primer in one, isn’t paint and primer in one at all, it’s a thick paint, nothing more…..you should still prime over bare drywall, stains, odors and anything else of that nature. Also, applying two coats is not any easier than a coat of primer and a coat of paint, which is usually cheaper….it’s just a marketing gimmick…

I just used the Behr premium paint to paint a dining room and one bedroom. Painted the dining room about a week ago, and haven’t been in there really doing anything since. I was pleased at first, looked nice. Then I painted my bedroom a chocolate brown color. As soon as I moved my furniture in there and merely tapped the wall with it, the paint got a huge nick in it! Then on close inspection of the dining room, where I had a little end table sitting in a corner waiting to be moved into the living room (which I haven’t painted yet) I noticed the paint has rubbed off all around the edges of where the table is leaning. So I took my finger nail and ran it down the paint, which has dried for over a week now and it scraped right off! I don’t know if I did something wrong, I can’t say that I am an experienced painter but. . .I don’t think it should be getting nicked this easily. I am definately going to complain to Behr. And before you ask, I did wash down the walls with TSP before painting and let them dry, any thoughts on why this paint is nicking?

Okay, it seems that most people have no idea what the purpose of primer is, and this is why gimmicks like “all in one” paint are selling. Primer is NOT the same as paint. It’s purpose is NOT to reduce the number of coats required with your final paint. It’s purpose is to SEAL the surface and to create a BONDING SURFACE. It gives tooth to your wall/door/etc so the paint will stick. If you mix too much color into the primer, it loses it’s bonding properties. Adding a splash of black to your primer can help reduce the number of coats you need if you are using a dark final color, but mixing them together does absolutely nothing for your project.

As far as the dry time problem that Tami encountered…paint dries quicker with heat and low humidity. The cold extends the dry time, so cranking the air had the opposite effect that you wanted.

Behr paint is good paint. It is acrylic latex, giving it good durability and it cleans well. Your finished product can only be as good as the foundation, so if your walls are substandard or have any issues behind them, then nothing will stick. It IS only paint.

Having remodeled homes for decades and being in the new home building and marketing business for decades I can tell you that handicapping brands are like like telling someone there is only one best flavor of ice cream or there is only one true religion. Everybody has a different opinion but there are consistencies that transcend all of them and that is the quality of workmanship and preparation that insures the end result. I’ve been pleased with Behr, Glidden and Ben Moore, Ace hardware’s own brand too and many more. I’ve been disappointed with most all of them too. What I do know is that every job has exclusive conditions and requirements like temp, humidity, color selection, material used, etc., etc.. I’m still looking for something to revolutionize the process but so far have opted to prepare the surface adequately to allow for a smooth or consistent finish and adhesion, primed the surface with a oil based primer, which is different than using an extra coat of paint you use and know that “EVERY” job requires that. When you eliminate either of those 2 items don’t be surprised. Expect inconsistencies and extra work. You do that enough and you just won’t try it without it. Haste makes waste and time is money.
When you paint something red or yellow, all bets are off. It’s not magic and neither is the paint. It like satisfying hunger with filling your belly with water. It just doesn’t work. In fact, you can poison yourself with too much. I’ve loved a lot of different paints and have sworn by them for a period of time in my life but people get divorced because something happened that got you thinking of leaving and trying something else….If you’re like me you find a new love and try harder to make it work and do the steps you didn’t do before and realize that last marriage wasn’t all that bad and it just may have been me. You can’t cheat on them and expect to be disappointed. Do the necessary steps. But buy the correct paint for the job conditions. No marriage comments please.

Comment on my comment: Oil based, shellac, water based or latex primers all work for the right application of different surfaces. All are needed for a good, “durable” and long lasting paint job. Any so called “super/one step” paint will last less than a paint job previously primed before painting….and that means “ANY” including so called paint primer combinations. Save your money and prime first. Primer is what paint sticks to best even with the vulcanization of other paint. It seals and sticks to the surface better and “teeths” the paint better. You might get 2 coats of paint to stick together but not to the surface so what’s the use. Even combination paints have to stick to some kind of a clean and dry surface with primer or not. Combo primer/paints are just about as expensive as a primer and paint purchased separately so there’s not even a monetary benefit?

Shortcuts never work: in the end, you have to repair the damage and actually do more to fix the situation. Why people skip proper preparation and priming, I have no idea. Painting is like any job- do it right, and do it once.

I use Benjamin Moore’s Aura almost exclusively with my company and get amazing results with it as a Paint & Primer, especially on bare woodwork. Before , even with a Fresh Start Oil Primer & Regal it would be difficult to get that great look with less than 3 coats (1 prime, 2 paint on bare trim) but with the Aura its 2 coats, done, finished looking great. It saves me money on supplies and more importantly labor costs. On exterior projects though, with our seasons, I still perfer a good primer and paint, but interior is a differnt story.

I used BEHR Premium Plus Ultra Paint And Primer In One water based after years of using high quality paint. I started with a front door. It came out fantastic. My friend who is a professional painter told me it was a bad call until he saw what it looked like. He then told me it most likely would not last. To this day his prediction has not come true.
My second use came when I changed out some windows and painted the exterior trim. Within an hour of completion the rain came. This happened to be the side of the house with the greatest weather exposure. I went back to look the next day after 4pm and the paint was dried hard with no issues from the rain. Of course my friend the painter said it will last maybe a season.
Seasons have come and gone. I checked the wather a week ago and saw a day and a half of no rain. The first day I changed out windows & caulked. The second day I painted, the rain came and the next day the paint is rock hard and beautiful.

I used the Behr Premium Plus Ultra on three rooms plus a hallway (project creep), and I am a believer. This is amazing paint. The last time I painted a light-colored room red it took seven coats – this time it took two. All the other rooms look beautiful with one coat. Plus, the colors are great and the paint is easy to work with. I used Sunburst, Cricket, a blue I don’t remember, and Powdered Brick. I used high-gloss in the kitchen and eggshell in the other rooms, plus high-gloss pure white on the woodwork. I can’t recommend it strongly enough.

I used Behr Ultra Satin Enamel to repaint two rooms in deep colors, one is ‘Signature Blue’ and the other room 3 walls in ‘Morrocan Red’ and one accent wall ‘Edgy Red’ and the results were flawless and still so after two months. No fading in both sunlit rooms. In the room with ‘Morrocan Red’ color they use a high-hiding red pigment in the formula for Behr Ultra, and it took two coats. The ‘Edgy Red’ is a bright red: one primer coat of a medium pink, and two coats of the deep base red. I don’t skimp on the tools: Shurline rollers, paint pads, and brushes. As for tape, I avoid flakely blue tape and use Bloc-It tape for truely sharp lines. I don’t skimp on the dry time either between coats. The worst paint I had ever used is Sherwin-Williams Duration: the dark red color faded in one month, revealing the gray primer. I learned the hard way that you never use gray primer as an undercoat on walls for deep reds. They use translucent red pigments that don’t hide well. Dunn-Edwards is another bad paint the builder’s originally used was junk for the bathrooms and peeled, thanks to their junk PVA primer. The bathrooms are my next project. My verdict is BEHR Ultra gets the job done right. I also have used Ben-Moore Aura which is another great paint in the kitchen. And for the usual, I do not work for any hardware store nor paint company.

Just used the Behr Premium Plus Ultra in our rec room and we only had to use one coat, as a mom of three and on a tight budget I would recommend and use this again. It saved me time AND money as I did not have to purchase two gallons and primer. Worth it for sure.

Wake up people!!! STOP using cheap rollers and brushes and you will get better results. Most homeowners and contractors will do anything to try and save a buck! PREP is key for EVER project! Behr Ultra is not a miracle product but it works excellent for the right project. Stop blaming other things/products for your lazyness. Does anybody READ a label? They are called DIRECTIONS not CORRECTIONS. Read it first and take a little responsibility. FYI… Remove the tape when the paint is WET.

It’s funny how many people think a crappy paint job looks great. “It’s got fresh paint, so it’s shiny and new!!” Sure everything looks great freshly painted, regardless. Look closer, a lot closer. Do you see the voids and runs that is indicative of cheap paint, especially after the second coat? Give it a few years and see if it is such a great paint then. Behr primer/paint has not been out long, and NO ONE knows how it will weather and last in a few years, only time will tell. Meanwhile, their is money to be made right now, sell sell sell sell. I’ve never seen a paint that has covered in one coat, satisfactorily. I’m harder to please than the clients that I get to work for. Even the one coaters always have ended up being two-three coats. So don’t believe the marketing hype, it’s just that. You get what you paid for, or ripped off. I’ve had good results with Valspar premium, not the cheap runny stuff that they pander. Every brand has a good quality paint on one end of the scale, and the cheap crap on the other. Unfortunately, people flock for the cheap stuff thinking that they’ll save a buck, and then whine about it. Same with contractors, they’ll pick an $8.00/hr guy over a consummate professional such as myself, and then end up with a sloppy finished job-whah. You ought to see New Orleans, some of the stuff that people will let and get away with. Sure the good stuff costs a little extra, but quality isn’t cheap, either.

There is no way to get away from the primer phase of a good paint job. A primer serves several purposes, first, it’s a surface sealer for one, secondly, it gives the paint a bondable surface to chemically adhere to. Two separate processes. Sure, you can paint anything without primer, but it sure won’t look as good or lasts as long as a paint job that’s done right.

Pulling tape is an art in itself. I hate pulling tape when the paint is wet, for in some cases the paint then runs down over where you just pulled tape. Why bother taping at all if this is the case? Not to mention the mess that is created with wet tape paint on your hands, face, tools, et al. If you wait too long to pull tape, you then have pliable latex that just peels away from the old painted surface in strips or in chunks, especially if you just painted over old, unprepped paint. Besides, what about if you have to paint a second coat? Do you really want to retape everything that was taped before when you pulled it off while the paint was still wet? I wait until the paint is fairly dry myself and then I run my razor knife down the corner joint, lightly cutting the paint and not the material. Then I pull the dry tape. Works like a charm, and you only have to tape once.

Cutting the tape is the best way to avoid shearing paint which overlapped the tape. Many contractors do not use tape, they are able to freehand with a brush. Retaping would be advisable if using a second coat.

I love this product. I am SO suprises by the comments above. I’ve used the regular paint and other brands. None compare to this one. If you know how to paint and have good brushes and naps you should be impressed yourself. I tried it in my kitchen and was floored. So I used it again in my living room, hallways, and now my office. I won’t go back to anything else!!!!!!

I used the Behr Premium Plus Ultra to paint my home office, which was converted from the kids playroom. The room originally had 3 different colored walls, included a chalkboard painted wall. I have to admit I was very skeptical that this product would be able to easily cover over the black chalkboard wall, but was willing to try it if it meant saving some time. I was truly amazed at how well it performed. The walls looked great after one coat, though I did use two. There hasn’t been any peeling or cracking and I LOVE the color. I intend to use this brand to paint a few more rooms in the house.

Just used the Behr premium ultra on my entire top floor. I bought it because of the built in primer. I was covering a pale green paint. The plan was to save the extra step of priming over the green for color accuracy. It did not work!! Still had to prime with grey for color accuracy. The worst problem though is the sheen/finish of the new paint is not even. I even re-painted a 3rd coat. Still the same problem. I have painted 8 houses in 6 years so I am familiar with painting prep/technique. I would not recommend this paint. I have used cheaper paints with much better results.

I painted my living room a medium green with Behr satin finish regular interior paint a couple years ago. I used more than a gallon of paint to get the job done. Recently, got tired of the color so decided to repaint using flat Behr Premium Plus Ultra. I used slightly more than half of a gallon to completely cover the green with a light shade of gray. It is definitely a thicker paint so needed to load my brush and roller a little heavier. Once they were properly loaded, it went on like butter!! It is beautiful! There were about 5 small spots that I missed (I had terrible lighting at night) and just covered those areas with a 2nd coat the next day and it laid down smoothly–no brush strokes or roller marks! Usually, when using a brush, I will lay down 3 coats to 2 coats with the roller. With the Behr Premium, I only needed 1 coat and half the paint!! Since I just painted, time will tell as to how long it will last. I’ve used Behr paints for many years and never had a problem (except when I foolishly painted latex over oil). Any problems may be from different surfaces and/or techniques. The only problem is that I bought two gallons when I only needed one!! I also painted my unglazed brick fireplace with the same paint in a light cream color. I was amazed at how well it went on and didn’t really soak into the brick or mortar as I have heard others having a problem with. For the fireplace application, it took two coats.

This really isnt that helpful! 6 to one and half a dozen to another! Some hate it and some love it… I have a fairly large home that is in need of full exterior paint, and I cant decide if I should prime over the existing paint, and then two top coats or just get at it with this new primer paint in one? It will be a netural color with pure white trim…

This is NOT a ONE COAT PAINT . I do give Behr a prize for being the #1 company in misleading marketing.

This is a Paint and Primer in ONE CAN. Not ONE COAT.

It is a PAINT AND PRIMER in one can…. Meaning you still have to PRIME your surface with ONE COAT and then PAINT the surface with a SECOND COAT (from the same can).

I even saw a display IN HOME DEPOT. That showed a sample of this paint with ONE COAT (as the primer) and then a sample of this paint with the SECOND COAT (as the paint). And is showed how the second coat achieves a better “true” color. SO you are still putting two coats of paint.

This is not a magic can of paint people. Behr just re-labeled and re-marketed their two coat system paint and slapped a higher price on it.

You are better off buying a less expensive brand because not matter which way you slice it you are going to have to put on two coats REGARDLESS.

We are just moving into a new condo, that was painted white (or maybe it is a white primer) on all the walls. The home has never been lived in, and is new. The question is, do i need to prime it? I want to paint the walls of the living room, bedrooms, and perhaps the kitchen too (not sure on the kitchen yet). The color would be a sort of beige – white or beige – yellowish paints. I was thinking of using the Behr Premium Ultra, just to be on the safer side. I was originally thinking no primer at all, and just use regular paint because of the condition of the condo and the new white paint / or primer, but after reading these comments about primer, i am no longer certain.

I just used the Behr paint and primer in one and found it to work well. I painted over a very deep blue color wall w/ a light khaki green (called Teabag) and did end up needing to do 2 coats but it was nice to only have to use one paint roller instead of one for primer then another for paint. I’ve done the top half of my dining room wall ( the bottom half is molding) w/ two coats and still have a little more than 1/4 can of paint left. I highly recommend this product and will be using it again as it did save me time and money 🙂

My kids gifted me with painting my guest bath. I bought Behr’s paint/primer thinking “good”, i.e.expensive paint would be a good choice. They painted a med. brown over light paint and wallpaper. It covered the wallpaper well.

I was told a semi-gloss was their highest gloss in this paint, so I chose it for the bathroom. After a thorough drying period I mounted a spring loaded curtin rod. It started to slide so I checked it out. A largish piece of paint peeled off the wall. This stuff is a somewhat rubberish substance and really peels. My dog scratched the door and the paint didn’t show scratch marks, it again peeled. I got a little miffed about this when I found sanding small places just made larger spots and started peeling off large sections. I will have to to replace the door and repaint. My “Painters” are no longer available and since I can’t do it myself, I’ll have to hire someone. Don’t buy this junk.

Been using Behr for years and I love it. Goes on great, no sagging and covers great. I’ve used reds, greens, tans and yellows. All with great results

For someone who said that red paint needs a pink-tinted primer, you’re dead wrong. You need a GREY primer under the red paint. Red paint is translucent and it reflects the light off of the wall and exposes unevenness in coverage. The grey primer absorbs the light behind the paint and you can cover in much less time.

The first time I used red paint, I used a white primer and it took five coats. Terrible
The second time I used red pain, I used a grey primer and it took one coat.
The third time I used red paint, a home depot paint “specialist” talked me out of grey to pink and it took 3 coats.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and opinions. They are a great help. I just had a very humid, cold basement painted with Behr Premium Plus Ultra paint. Some of the walls had old paint on them, while others were bare drywall. All were covered equally well by two coats of this paint except one room, which had a strong turqoise colour on the walls. Three coats were needed to achieve the new creamy white wall colour in that room. Still, it was no more work than priming and painting would have been. Even better, the very strong cigarette smoke smell in the basement disappeared completely after painting, and has not returned. So far, I am pleased with this paint. I hope it will hold up well.

This primer and paint in one went on well with one coat but the odor is so awful and it made me so sick. My nose was running and my throat got sore and I got so nauseated and then got a headache. Anyone else get that effect.

I’m a painter/ decorative painter with 40 years experience.
Primer has less pigment and more binder/ resin so it sticks better without interference from the pigment which colors the paint and gives it body. That’s why primers are thinner and you can often see through them.
Paint has one, two or three different pigments to color your paint and are thicker. Better paints use more different pigments to make more complex colors and higher quality pigments too. You generally get what you pay for. No such thing as good/great paint that is cheap. Makes sense doesn’t it?
Depending on the color you choose, and the base your painting over you might need 1-3 or more coats to cover well and get a nice rich looking job. Some pigments are by their very nature more transparent than others and have less white in them which is generally op
So, there is a contradiction for a paint to be both a primer and a paint. except for on thing, magic. I’m not a chemist but this is what I Logically came up with for this to be possible. I know this technology exists and they must be using it to accomplish this. The Primer element of the paint separates from the “Paint” as it begins to dry. The pigments layer migraes to the top.
There are many other factors to a good paint job. Good tools, brushes and high quality rollers make a tremendous difference, in time saved and final result.
Take your new roller and roll it over a wide strip of masking tape back and forth to pull out the loose fiber. Wet the brush before you start and shake it/ wipe it. Wrap your brush in plastic or a very damp rag in between dips so it doesn’t go dry waiting for its next use. DON’T BUY CHEAP TOOLS ,unless you don’t care. Lastly, weather should not be overly damp or overly dry. The paint won’t lay out properly or dry properly.

Final note to comment above: Cheaper paint use some form of calcium to lighten the color base better paints use titanium for the white. Way better. Like I said, NO FREE LUNCH. Use ADEQUATE VENTILATION or a VOC mask. Don’t poison yourselves. Painters have more brain damage than any other trade. NO JOKE>

Using this on a new home. The flat is not flat, it has a sheen and after several coats the sheen is very uneven. It looks awful. Used eggshell in another room with the same problem – uneven and too shiny for eggshell. Uneven sheen, shows every brush mark. For the media room that flat was required, gave up and bought another brand in the same color and it was truly flat. Once coat later, the sheen was gone. Thank God! What a pain. I’m stunned by all the positive comments. Truly, no one else noticed uneven finish and sheen?

If you’re painting on unfinished sheetrock, you have to prime first. It’s impossible to get an even coat since your bound to cross over and it absorbs more or less. That’s what a primer is for, to seal the surface so you get even coats. Good rollers and brushes are essential for a good job and good paint too. See my posts above if you want to know more

Generally, consumer flat paints are not “dead flat”- they have some sheen (usually 2-7 units @85 degrees). Otherwise, they would not clean at all. They are still not scrubbable, nor do they have burnish resistance, but they can be cleaned with the recommended method: water and a cellulose sponge. To add to what Eugene says, in terms of paint quality: lesser quality paints have extenders (kaolin clay. various extender pigments, etc). This makes them have good touch up ability, but not overall coverage and durability, as in better paint products (which have a higher concentration of titanium dioxide). Paints are formulated for different properties, and for a variety of end users (contractors, consumers, etc.)

B. Moore, whose paints I like a lot, great colors , has a pretty new “flat” paint that they call “Matte” it costs a bit more but will stand up better to cleaning, and stand up to burnishing than their normal Flat “Wall-Satin” Well it’s more resistant to stain so there’s less need to rub and rub anyway. In the old days I used B. Moore’s Sani-Flat Alkyd Flat. Now that would stand up to anything. I don’t know if they even make it anymore. Contractor grade paints are cheaper and you get what you pay for. B. Moore makes those grades so contractors can pay less and yet customers will see the B. Moore name. PHOOEY.

OH, once you get the first coat of the all in one, primer and finish in the first coat, I don’t see any reason to use it again on the second coat or more. You’d be re-priming instead of making the color deeper and richer. Also, Phooey.

I used Behr Premium Plus Ultra Eggshell paint and primer combo two days ago on a wall that was re-stucco’d about 6 weeks ago. Prior to painting the wall was dusted off and prepared for painting. The paint is peeling off like old wall paper (actually its probably coming off easier than that)!!!! Someone said it best in this forum, “its peeling off like FRUIT ROLL-UPS”The paint is going back to HD tomorrow! Its been a HUGE waste of money and time. Ive video taped what happened…im going to upload it to youtube in a few days (maybe there are some vids already there on the subject…dont know). Buy separate primer…..its a scam.

Prep is everything on new surfaces- otherwise, adhesion is spotty at best. The newer paint products , which are lower in volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) take longer to set up and cure. If they are picked at, or abraded early in the curing cycle, delamination may occur. From what I have heard, the Behr primer/finish combo product is very thick.

A follow-up to my 6/14 comment: I took the paint back to HD and showed them the video. No questions asked…I got my money back (I was ready for a fight though). I went to the paint dept. to speak with one of the HD employees. She informed me that the Behr rep was in the store. I explained to the rep what happened and showed him the video. He replied he was going to “give me” replacement paint and he asked me to file a complaint with Behr, apparently he was the local distributor, not an employee of Behr. He wasnt the best listener, so I mentioned again that it was a new wall with stucco. Light Bulb! He says, wait that changes everything. Chances are you had a prep issue. If you want Behr to replace the paint and labor…you’re going to have to file a complaint and send a sample of the paint the flaked off. I told him I didnt have time for all that. I insisted there wasnt a prep issue and he insisted there was. The rep ended up giving me FREE primer and paint (separate not the all in one crap) and HD gave me my money back. Despite my contractor’s lost time which is money- I was very pleased with HD’s response and satisfied knowing that Behr stood behind there product. May be I did have a prep issue??? But Im convinced, if I would have used a quality primer first, this would not have happened. Bottom line: on a new wall or recently stucco’d wall use SEPARATE PRIMER….no magic in this paint. Its good for walls with existing paint that needs some stain blocking or concealing-thats it!!

I painted two rooms in my apartment 2 years ago using Behr Premium Plus. I think that it is technically possible to coat only one – most of the the job look great after the first coat. However, I don’t have the skills to finish that well in 1 application so I did apply the second coat and the rooms look absolutely perfect. The paint was a breeze to work with as well, even with the cheapest of rollers.

Two years later, the paint looks like the seconds day. I believe this finish will last a lifetime.

We are moving again this month and we are painting 4 rooms. I spent a small fortune, but bought nothing but Behr.

I used this throughout my entire house and it went on great, looks great and I expect it will last every bit as long as all the other premium brands. I’ve used Behr products on the exterior of my home as well and have been very pleased.

By the way, I am a professional artist as well as a home owner and I know paint intimately. This is good paint and the “concept”, worked out by paint chemists, works quite well indeed.

I’ve painted on and off for years and always used premiums (Benie Moore primarily). I recently painted a ratty exterior garage for my mother along with some metal storm doors and the Behr paint/primer idea sounded intriquing. The paint went on as good as any and coverage was fantastic, even on the metal doors. I haven’t had a lot of experience with Behr products – but this one is a winner – A+ !

I worked in the Home Depot paint department several years ago. Back then I painted most of my 3 BDR townhome with Behr and Glidden paint. I like the Behr better, it is thick and goes on very well. I only use Purdy 3/8 rollers. They are about $12 for a 3-pk, but you get the best performance and the thick paint covers very well. I used the new “primer and paint in one” on a guest bedroom that had not been painted since I moved in. It has one wall with wood paneling from the 70s. I had planned to buy a Kilz primer until I found out Behr had this new product. I had the paint clerk use the spectrometer to match drapes I brought in. I used eggshell for this khaki green color. I did the paneled wall first, no problems. This paint seems thicker to me than the regular Behr paint (if that’s possible), but it rolled on like silk against a rugged paneling. I did 2 coats on the paneling because I wanted to make sure I covered the deep grooves in the paneling. It looks like very expensive wainscotting now. The rest of the room was white and the paint covered it with one coat.

As some other posters have stated, you have to prep (patch holes and uneven spots, sand, tape) and use the proper equipment when you paint. Knowing how to use a roller helps too. There is a more efficient way to use a roller than just going straight up and down.

As far as reds, dark colors, etc. I think I have become a paint expert in my home as I have experimented with several different techniques for each room. I used a pink tinted primer for a very cranberry wall in the dining room, no problem with the tinted primer or paint. I used Glidden paint for the primer and paint without issue. In my master bath, I painted my celing a brick red and used a gray primer, both by Behr and had no problems with that. I believe it really does come down to prep work, technique and quality products. I have used Valspar and Dutch Boy paint before. Didn’t really have a complaint about either, but I like the thickness of the Behr paint. It goes on very well when applied correctly.

Just completed an entire townhouse. Building approx. 90+ yrs old with lots of cracks and small wall repairs to be done. I used the owner’s selection of colors (gray, light greens, violet, yellow) over strong colors blues, yellows and pink with faux painting. I did not get LESS than two coats on any wall. Some rooms where nicotine had stained the walls were 3-4 coats. I even primed the worst room with a lighter color of Behr paint & primer to make the covering easier and it was no better than cheap wall primer. These rooms would have been a challenge to any paint. In the end I used old white ceiling paint as a primer and it worked better than the expensive Behr paint when I finally applied the actual coat. The paint itself applies nicely, has good working consistency and dries well. It even smells nice! It did not save me time and in fact caused a miscalculation of gallons needed on the owners part: some colors covered well (gray) and others did not (off-whites and cream). This is not a paint I would buy for my own use, and that is always the true test.

After reading most of the comments I might as well flip a coin. However, if I were paying a contractor, I would insist on primer and two coats. I may try the Behr combo since I only have to paint a few painted doors and trim. Some of the comments, where paint peeled badly, made me wonder if latex was applied over oil based paint without priming first.
I totally agree that you should use premium tools. Too much work involved to take chances with cheap brushes/rollers. I do have a question – Applying latex paint using Wooster Pro Classic brushes, I always end up with dried paint that is nearly impossible to remove from all the bristles ** I need to post this question is another forum.

I’ve had many laughs from the do it yourselfer’s in here. I’ve been painting 30+ years and most of you dont get it! The paint and primer in one is a JOKE! If you have to prime, especially going over deep based colors and some mid-tones, buy cheap flat paint or do a 50/50 mixture of latex kilz and cheap latex paint, then have them tint it close to the color you are using for a top coat! For you all trying to cover pen marks, majik marker stains and or water stains etc. etc. get a can of spray kilz, NOT THE WATER BASED KILZ! A top coat for your finished job…. use a mid grade to top of the line paints. And if you know you’re painting in the next few months, WAIT for a SALE!!! The ebst top of the line paints i’ve used… Pratt and Lambert, and Pittsbug paints ” manor hall and there Sunproof line” MAB was bought out by the industries most OVER-RATED Paint Sherwin Williams. MAB was really a Good product!! I’m not much into buying from the big store outlets; Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart…etc.etc… But if i had too the Behr primium and the Valspar lines aren’t bad, just not my choice. Benjamin Moore has a nice top of the line paint, but cost way tooooo much as Sherwin Williams over=rated paints! If you want a nice roll job, use the purdy Eagle brand or most 50/50 wool sythetic rollers. Brushe’s… Hands Down.. CORONA…Hand made in America, and they do a wonderfull job! Anyone needing some advice or help my addy is on yahoo …… “dm1171966” Good luck do it your selfer’s

For all of you who really have questions…here is the answer. Regardless of what brand of paint you use, if you are painting new dry wall or a dark color…you will need 2 coats, whether you decide to use a $10 gallon of primer and a $25 gallon of top coat, or you use 2 gallons of paint and primer in one at $45 each, the end result will be the same. It’s a great marketing scheme and rather than looking at the overall results, consumers see easier and half the time. If you are painting over a light color, 99% of the time you will only need one coat, it’s up to you how much you want to spend. Personally, True Value has awesome paint, rolls and lasts longer than Behr…never used it…try it.

I am a professional painting contractor. We are currently using this product at the homeowners request. It is one of the worst products Iv used. It is basically just a cheap latex primer. I will never allow my company to use this kind of garbage product again. Porter paint is much better. This paint runs doesn’t cover and probably won’t last long. Don’t but the consumer reports crap reporting. They paint a board or two not a house. There testing is also no standardized.

It is obvious to me that you are anything but a “professional” which is frequently tossed around trying to impress those who are easily impressed. I hope you are a better painter than a speller! Are you certified in architectural coatings nationally or do you just make your living painting because if that’s the case, most pro painters are anything but. Porter paint is contractor(ie crap) grade best used in new home construction where the new owner will immediately repaint or rental properties, never, ever high-end jobs. Your comments tell me everything I need to know. I think I’ll take my chances with Behr any day.

All this chatter about primer, primer, primer. I have repainted plenty of rooms in my lifetime with latex paint on plastered walls and drywall. There is NO need for primer if your repainting over a previously painted latex wall. It’s nothing more than overkill and a waste of money. And yes, in the majority of those repaints were done with Sears Easy Living (yes Sears). It’s one of the best paints I have every used, lasts 20 years, it scrubs great, and doesn’t flake, peel, or pull off of the walls like some other high end brands. Only paint I have used that runs like Sears is Benjamin Moore Regal. I can’t speak for the rest. However my friends NO paint and I mean none of them are worth $35 and up a gallon. Period. And I also prefer the trusted Weatherbeater exterior paint. I spent $35 for a gallon of SW A-100 and it wasn’t as good as the WB.

Fact about paint, good paint like PPG and Sherwin W. have more solids mixed
in with the paint. I have used cheap paint for years until I bought my first gallon of Sherwin Williams. In life you get what you pay for !! Tip: avoid the Depot pal.

I have been duped. I fell for the marketing gimmick. I did NOT prime over my old paint in my hallway, and alas, the Behr Ultra Paint & Primer, is peeling off the old finish. So, tonight, I have a date with a can of Kilz. I am very thankful that I had only put one coat of Behr on the walls so far. Not too much time wasted. From now on, no shortcuts for me. Oh, and to the peeps trying to paint red walls, the only time I have been able to successfully paint any shade of red, has been with the great help of Sherwin Williams, with their tinted primer and paint. I just painted the Cashmere paint in my living room, in a beautiful red, and I love it. I am also a huge fan of Benjamin Moore paints too. As the old saying goes, “There’s nothing more expensive than a cheap can of paint”. Proven to be true, once again!

I’ve had nothing short of great results with the Behr Paint and Primer in One. In 2009, I used it to paint the guest bedroom, the dining room, and the home office. In 2010, I used it to paint a hallway and the master bedroom. The colors have ranged from light to dark, and all went on in a single coat on 100 year old plaster walls. If the 2009 coats have faded any, then I have yet to notice. Although, I don’t think for a moment that this paint has any special primer magic to it, its the only water-based paint I’ve ever found that almost mimics the coverage and viscosity/tackiness of an oil-based. That’s reason #1 for why I use it. Reason #2 : water-based paints are easy to clean-up (i.e. both spills and tools). Finally, Reason #3 is that I really do save time and money because I’ve only had to use a single coat so far in any of the rooms. Of course, I’ve developed a strict protocol when it comes to painting; for example, I only paint within a narrow temp and humidity window, which can be difficult to come by where I live. I don’t skimp on the paint I apply to the wall, I cover my strokes ad nausea, and I always smooth a finished wall as soon as I’ve covered the wall (best tip ever, especially for dark colors!). And I probably spend 20% of the time actually painting; the other 80% is spent taping trim, patching, lightly sanding/scuffing up the walls, washing the walls with a sponge, and meticulously removing ALL dust and contaminants from the walls (and floor). In summary, I’ve found this paint has been a great time and money saver. I also recommend it to anyone with the caveat that it works as advertised (better IMO) provided that you don’t skimp on prepping your walls.

We are building custom home. Finalizing professional painter’s bid. We have choice of Behr, S.W., Color Wheel. Based on Consumer Reports ratings, plan to go with basecoat of Behr’s Drywall Primer/Sealer (new textured drywall) then Behr’s Premium Plus Flat Enamel or Premium Plus Ultra Flat. They have rated it highest (#1 &/0r2) for the past few years. Curious why some posted comments about Behr conflicts with the C.R. rating, as does S.W. which they rated much lower. Very confusing. Correct wall prep will be detailed in bid – quality of a paint result depends on it (irrespective of brand). New house with high walls and ceilings – really want this paint to last awhile.

Tony – Very well put. Preparation done right has a significant effect on the finish of ANY paint applied. There are no shortcuts to get results with poor quality tools or technique, or to skip necessary steps.

Consumer Reports’ is touted as The Bible, but it is impossible to determine exactly what their test methods are. As a technical service rep for a major paint manufacturer, I know that lab testing is not always transferrable to applications in the field (especially considering the variable skill level of the actual applicator). Consumers and painters generally have different expectations from paint. If you look at CR’s blogs, there is about a 50/50 split on the Behr product- some seem to be credible, but others may not be as much. There are preferred paints by different consumers and by professional painters, depending on their experience.

Mark and Tony – thanks for the input. I understand what you mean about credibility of some of the blogs. Any advice on how many coats of drywall primer on new textured drywall? Will be sprayed, but should it then be backrolled? Then how many coats of finish paint? (Will be light off-white/antique white – flat). Should final coat of finish paint also be backrolled? I’ve heard backrolling paint sprayed on new drywall covers texture betterm more evenly and avoids shadowing/ghosting of drywall tape joints. for kitchen and bathroom walls and bathroom ceilings, we have been given choice of satin or semi-gloss paint – any advantage of one over the other? Bathrooms have level 5 drywall finish in prep for future wallpaper in 12 months.

Priming a textured drywall can be done with one coat of primer, depending on the quality of the primer (PVA is not preferable). Backrolling after spraying is a good practice to coat the texture completely.

Finish paint- 2 coats: spraying and backroll is recommended for this application also- especially for the reasons you mention. Satin paint is not as glossy as semi-gloss, and it disguises imperfections better underneath, compared to the SG. The level 5 finish will hide tape joints, in addition to providing a good base for priming/painting/wallcovering.

We have painted our own home many times using seperate primer and paint without a problem and experienced great results. We recently purchased Behr Primer and paint-in-one in a light green color and very light neutral color to cover white walls. We properly prepped the walls and applied the paint and primer in one. For the light neutral paint color, we applied 2 coats and streaking is visible. For the light green color, it was apparent that more coats were needed after 2 coats were applied due to streaking. A third coat was applied. It is still full of streaks. How do we fix this? Can the same paint color without the primer in one be used to correct this? Please help-thank you.

I have been a professional painter for 20 years. So many comments to address… First off, I use Behr almost primarily, both the Ultra, and the basic latex. I have had great results with both. I have also had great results with many other paints. Second, I prime when needed, new drywall or wood, etc… Thirdly, a good painter doesn’t need to tape at the ceilings. Lastly, and this is HUGE… Prep is everything! Without the proper prep, it won’t matter what paint you use. It will always look like crap and require extra work.

I recently purchased my house and I’ve used Behr Ultra paint-and-primer-in-one for all my indoor painting. I’ve painted the dining room, living room, 4 bedrooms, hallways, and two bathrooms. I’ve ALWAYS used two coats.

In my own experience with ANY paint, one coat never gives total coverage.

Either you paint three times–one primer, two top coats–or just two top coats with this one.

I prefer two top coats and avoid the priming. Two coats of Behr all-in-one worked even when painting over new drywall and joint compound.

Sounds like a couple things may have happened:
1. You used a low-quality brush.
2. Paint dried on the brush.
3. You applied too much paint to the wall.
4. You let the paint sit for too long (3+ days) before painting without stirring/shaking it up enough and the paint started to separate.

ive used it many times and it leaves a great color..Home depot sells mostly Behr paint and do u think home depot would sell shit? i dont think so.. they sell 1 thousand dollar graco airlesses too which are very decent.. stop saying top shelf panit like behr sucks.. u suck lol

We repainted the outside of a house we have with Behr Ultra and so far, two years later, we haven’t noticed problems. I also used the same paint for inside our garage and it looks good after two years. I didn’t apply it so don’t know if it went on smoothly or not. I was considering using Behr on new drywall in a new room, but now am thinking I will use primer just to be on the safe side. Amazing the extreme reviews from “great” to “horrible” in these posts.

I used to buy Sears, but I bought some for the eaves we had replaced two years ago and was very unhappy with it. I had to return some because it wasn’t sticking – seemed to slide on with streaks. The salesperson said the paint could have stayed could have ended up in a truck in freezing weather and caused the problem. I used their Weatherbeater paint which had worked nicely many years ago without problems. Even after replacing the funny paint with fresher cans, I still thought it didn’t cover as well as in the past and had to use two coats for sure. Not sure I will buy Sears Weatherbeater again.

As a side note: So far, it appears I don’t have to enter more than my name and e-mail address to post this comment and I appreciate that as I have no patience for posting where I have to do more than that – passwords, etc.

I used the Behr Paint/Primer combo recently to repaint a dark gray bedroom to cream/white satin.

It took two coats and no trace of the dark gray is left. Cost was about $32/gal vs $23/gal for the regular Behr Premium paint. It did an excellent job, though admittedly I don’t have much to compare it to.

I thought I would need more and had an extra gallon. HD was happy to take back the unused can even though it was custom tinted.

I have recently become a painter as a profession.(1.5years) I am not a professional because there is still alot to learn. When I have a problem with a product like Behr ultra pure premium double superetc. I check the most likely cause for the problem; me. Sort of. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS PAINTER AND PRIMER IN ONE. It is marketing. Behr Ultra P P is a high hide PAINT. If you use it in a situation where priming is crucial it will fail. Somewhere in Behr directions they will tell you this just not as boldly as they advertise No Need To Prime. Save Time. Save Money. (enter small print)

I would NOT recommend this paint to ANYONE. Actually, I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere for your paint!

My Mother-in-Law and her son, my husband, had painted his room chlorophyll green Behr Premium Primer and Paint in one thinking it would save time and money. We own an apartment complex and we all know how much of a pain it is to constantly paint.

OH MY WAS THIS HORRENDOUS!!! There was a small chip in the wall due to a dresser being moved. So I tried to smooth out the chip and when I looked closer I noticed that the paint looked like it had ‘peeled’ instead of chipping like normal paint.

Well, let me tell you, I took that little piece of paint that was peeling and pulled it, and pulled it, and pulled it! THE PAINT CAME OFF THE WALL LIKE IT WAS PLASTIC!!! I was literally peeling the paint of the wall like wall paper. Only it was easier!

I am so enraged right now. We spend so much money. $30.00 per gallon and I believe they used 3 gallons of this mess. I have been peeling for almost two days now and I am almost in tears.

My sister had come over to look at what happened and picked up a piece of the paint. NORMAL paint would crumble in your hands if you picked it apart. She picked up a long piece that I had just removed from the wall and STRETCHED IT!!! Yes, STRETCHED the paint to see how ‘elastic-like’ it was. I am not exaggerating when I say that it stretched like silly putty. I do not no what to do other than peel the rest of the room off.

I think the best and only thing we got out of this certain paint product is that removing it has been the easy part.

I still have the copy of the sale of the paint. I’m wondering if Behr would refund my money. I can even show them pictures and EVEN take a video of how easily this paint scratches and is able to be removed.

have you ever noticed if you use a plastic pouring type apparatus with your can of paint, when it dries it pulls like silly putty- ALL , ALL paints do this- BM does it SW does it the cheapest and most expensive pain in the WORLD does it- sounds to me that you had something on your walls that needed to be washed off- that happens in kitchens if there is grease on walls and it happens frequently in bathrooms as lots of product gets sprayed on walls like hairspray and things like that- I have painted for years and years and years- over and over and have used Behr and BM paints- the Behr Ultra is remarkable in my opinion and I really don’t see what all the fuss is about- it went on like silk- yup and it was thick like it is supposed to be- BEHR TELLS YOU if the color is of a certain deep pigment you may need to prime still- it does NOT claim you dont have to do a second coat- I always do no MATTER WHAT- why not make it look perfect? seriously these posts are cracking me up-

ANY ONE NO OF ANY GREAT COUPONS, DISCOUNTS, ETC ON PURCHASING BEHR ULTRA PREMIUM PLUS PRIMER IN ONE PAINT?
i MISSED WHAT HOME DEPOT HAD OVER THE PRESIDENTS HOLIDAY DUE TO BEING OUT OF TOWN. THIS PAINT IS EXPENSIVE AND I’M TRYING TO SAVE $$$ BY DOING THIS JOB MYSELF. ANY HELP WILL BE DULY APPRECIATED.

One day, no one will remember what “primer” was.
One day, there will be a dual-layer paint that you have to put on with a strong UV light on in the room. it will cause some particles to cling and seal to the walls and some to form a protective, colorful outer layer. though no one who uses it will understand how it works.

Is Behr Premium Plus Ultra the wave of the future?

I don’t know, but i’m glad they have those little sample bottles.
I know I didn’t like Behr in the past but things change quickly these days.
The Behr external Solid Stain went on my house like cladding last year. absolutely needs two coats, and NOT anymore. weird, but true. Even covered PVC. Looks great, deep.
surprised me.

I work for thd in the paint dpt and have a lot of firsthand experience (used it to paint my parents’ home, inside and out, and the inside of my own home) and secondhand experience (feedback from contractors and prof painters) with the behr premium plus ultra.
Like many others who posted before me have already said, the Behr pp ultra paint and primer in one is one of the best paints on the market today, and is extremely versatile in what it can do, BUT it does have it’s limitations.

I have heard a lot of fallacies lately, and wanted to point out a few of the good things and a few of the limitations I’ve come to discover about the Behr ultra;

First the limitations of the paint:
1- the Behr ultra paint will cover over anything in one coat- FALSE. This is one thing that I get asked about by customers everyday at work. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A GUARANTEED ONE COAT PAINT. The one thing I have always liked about Behr is that they do their best not to lie or make false claims about their products, and they stand behind all of their products. Behr does not claim the paint and primer in one is only a one coat paint, only that it is guaranteed to cover exceptionally well and much better than other paints, which it certainly does. I have seen commercials and have heard about other paint brands that make the claim of, “one coat, guaranteed”, however there will always be situations where multiple coats are necessary. As a rule of thumb for me, I avoid paint brands that make such insane claims. That being said, I have made many displays using the darkest reds, blues, and blacks I could find, and the Behr ultra has always covered extremely well, usually one coat, or two coats max. I have used SW, and the valspar hi-def paint, in the past, and in my opinion I still say hands down the Behr ultra is a better, thicker, and more durable paint.

2- the Behr ultra paint will adhere to almost anything- FALSE. This is another false statement that I have heard lately: “the paint will to adhere to bare metal, galvanized and aluminum surfaces, plastics, ceramics, and surfaces previously painted with oil based paint”. The Behr pp Ultra paint CAN adhere to these surfaces, but I never recommend using it directly onto them. The glues and bonding agents in the Behr ultra paint are stronger than regular paint, which is why it can adhere to those surfaces, BUT they are NOT as strong or preferrable compared to the glues and bonding agents in the proper primers and paints for these surfaces. Also when it comes to new drywall, you should ALWAYS use a separate PVA or new drywall primer and sealer if you don’t want to run into issues down the road.

3- Covers over oil based paints- FALSE. The Behr ultra is an acrylic water based paint. Although it can adhere to surfaces previously painted with oil based paints, 9 times out of 10, it will just peel off. If you want use water based paint to repaint over something that was previously painted with oil based paint, stain, varnish, shellac, polyurethane or spar urethane (such as doors, trim, molding, etc), unless you want to sand the surface back down to bare wood, it is usually best to apply an oil based primer first. Fyi Unlike oil based paints, oil based primers are formulated to allow water based paints to adhere to them. Primers are the only exception to the water over oil rule.

Now for the good:
1- The coverabillity and hideabillity. The whole premise for the Behr ultra paint in primer in one is the coverabillity. When painting with a lighter color, it covers over dark colors extremely well, and when painting with a dark color over lighter colors it covers extremely well. the same can be said for the painstaking blues and reds. Every painter knows it usually takes more than two or three coats when using reds and blues. Like I said before, I have made many displays with reds and blues, comparing the ultra paint with regular paint, and on more than one occasion I have wanted to give up half way through with the regular paint. One display literally took 6 coats of regular red paint to cover over white primed drywall, which the Behr ultra only took 2. And the 6th coat of the regular paint still didn’t look anywhere near as nice as the ultra (streaks, splotching, etc).

2- Mold and Mildew Resistance. The paint and primer in one doesn’t appeal to a lot of people because they are either just repainting with the same color or are using a similar color. Even if I am painting the same or a similar color, the reason I still use the Behr ultra is because it is mold and mildew resistant. Mildew and mold resistance is very important in bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens, and other high moisture areas. For a long time, the only way to get mildew resistance was to either use a semi gloss or high gloss paint sheen, or to get both mold and mildew resistance you had to use a primer that was mold and mildew resistant first, or the other way was by buying a mold and mildew resistant paint additive. I personally have always hated using anything above a satin sheen on the walls because I think it looks too “plasticy”, which is why I have always used mold and mildew resistant primer first, and then painted over it after. Now we have that mold and mildew resistance and paint with only one step, and you’re not limited to a specific paint sheen either.

Well thats my two cents. Sorry for the length but it needed to be said. Also please note that just because I work for thd doesn’t mean I’m just pulling stuff out of my a**. I just want everyone to know what I know so they can make better educated decisions. I know painting is a long and expensive process for most people, so I hope this helps. And btw if you decide to go with the Behr premium plus ultra, or any high end paint, please please please use the good brushes, rollers, applicators, and etc. I can’t tell you how many people I see everyday spend $200+ on good paint and then grab the cheap paint kits. Ask any real painter, it does make a difference. And if your gonna spend $30+ a gallon, what’s another $10 or $11 for a good brush or roller.

Pj eisert:
Usually factory painted steel is painted with an oil based urethane or something similar. One way you can check to see if it is oil based or not is to put denatured alcohol on a rag and rub at the surface, if paint comes off it’s probably water based, if not it’s probably oil or xylene based. If it is oil based you would want to use an oil based primer on the shed first, then you can use a water based paint, like the behr ultra, over the primer.

I just cut in and rolled a coat of Behr Ultra Bright White on a ceiling that had some stains from water damage and also the weird brown marks lightbulbs leave. This is NOT the paint with primer, and I feel pretty unsatisfied. It looked good wet, but when it dried, it looked pretty awful. I did use some Kilz Primer on the worst stains, but the paint by itself looked streaky and like it would need another 3 coats or so, although while it was wet, it looked great.
I’m selling this house, and I need everything to look perfect. Please suggest something that will take the least amount of work, with the greatest results. I truly appreciate your time taken to reply.
K

If the stains are bleeding through, use Bin Shellac primer (spray or brush) to spot prime (or prime the whole surface) to block the stains completely. Re-apply the paint of your choice. A premium paint should have good dry hide.

I purchased this paint in satin to paint my bedroom red over blue. I did not use primer, as the paint said “paint and primer in one.”
I got terrible results. The first coat went on okay, it did not cover completely but I did not expect it to.
The second coat was awful. I was getting “pock marks,” kind of like when you spread oil on a surface and it tries to stay together. The paint was doing this. I looked on a couple of DIY websites to see if I was doing anything wrong. The only thing I could think of was I was using too little paint. I tried using more, or going over the “pock marked” areas and all looked fine until I went back to those areas 10 minutes later to find they had dripped IMMENSELY.
Going onto the third coat, I tried to sand out the areas that had dripped. This was a good 12 hours later. THE PAINT BEGAN TO PEEL. Only the first coat was left.
This paint is terrible and rubbery and I would not recommend it to anyone.
I have not had any problem with regular behr paint.

Used this paint on rusty wrought iron posts- covered great and has held up well. Used it on kitchen cabinets- holding up well. Used it on window frame for shed- holding up well. Getting ready to use it for trim and doors in kitchen. Overall I think it’s a great versatile product!

This one’s for Alex’s blog from April 26th, 2011. I just had my living room & hallway painted with the Behr Ultra back in February. I have to say that it covered pretty well for a darker shade ( sage green), but like a number of other folks out there it peels severely whenever it gets dinged. So from your blog, I’m guessing that the paint underneath must have been an oil based paint. Is there anything I can do about this peeling problem without peeling the paint off my walls entirely & starting over again (with an oil based primer)? Otherwise, I guess I will have to continue to do touch up painting & not ding my walls up if possible…

Thanks for all the input here. I particularly appreciated Alex’s information. We will be exterior-painting on a number of surfaces (bare new plywood after a repair to a sidelight, probably over old paint on the undamaged sidelight, new steel exterior door) and now I have a good idea of the questions to ask when we go to Home Depot. I didn’t realize that oil-based primer would take latex paint, that’s really good to know. We will have to pre-test the new steel door and see what its prime coat is.

Just for the record, we have been using the regular Behr interior paints since we bought this house over 10 years ago, and we love it. Many of our colors have been rather bright so we have always felt the need for a second coat, but the colors are beautiful and very durable. I wish the paint-and-primer had been available earlier on in our decorating process; it might have saved us a coat or two!) Behr was initially recommended by a friend, but we did our research and Consumer Reports ranks it very highly in survey after survey. As one who, in her apartment days, could only afford cheap, chalky paint, I really appreciate the difference.

Hey folks in most cases you don’t need to prime a wall that’s already been painted, priming is usually for bare wood, sheetrock etc. This paint and primer stuff is not new, many paints especially acrylic latex prime themselves. Primer as stated above is strictly for sealing a substrate and giving a finish coat something to grip to. To me this paint and primer is just a marketing ploy and a way to cut a corner. If I want something done right I do it the correct way and will not cut a corner. I will always buy the right primer for a bare substrate especially if my finish is going to have a sheen. Good quality tools are also a must. 37 years in the paint business so if you want to argue with me you better know your stuff.

I just finished painting a room in a seafoam green color using the paint and primer in one. The walls that I painted were black and royal blue. It went on beautifully and it covered in 1 coat… my husband was thoroughly impressed.

I agree with Mike on the self-priming properties of paint, and the marketing tactics which may be misleading. It is still a two coat (minimum) process with a product marketed as a primer/paint. Some of the TV marketing makes it look like everything is done in one coat. The general coating schedule is one primer, two coats of finish. The primer/paint allows you to use one product for this.

Most products on the market have low volatile organic compound content, whereas they had some solvents (even in latex paint products) in the past. This causes newer latex paints to be thick in consistency, and they set up very quickly to touch. Applications should be done with a minimum 3/8″ roller- no foam or shorter nap covers which can cause bubbling.

I just painted a room (half below a chair rail) with the Behr Ultimate Paint and Primer in one, eggshell sheen. It is dk. red (Dozen Roses) over white. two coats covered extremely well and would definitely use it again.
Now a question. I purchased a gal. of exterior Behr Ultimate in black, satin sheen to paint vinyl shutters. according to the application tips on the can label the recommendation for vinyl is to paint with same or lighter color. The current color is med. green (faded) which I plan to scrub with TSP and rinse and then go at it with two coats of the black. Has anyone painted vinyl shutters with this paint in black or dark color?

Be careful of painting with dark colors, as they may absorb heat and warp the vinyl. That is why you can order shutters in pre-made colors. I have seen siding which warped, and it looks like someone attacked the siding with a flame thrower- not pretty.

We have used the behr paint and primer in one in my house, and my parents have liked it.
So I did my bedroom with it and I don’t know why, but it chips very easily. By my bed, I have scratches and dings when whenever my finger nail hits the paint it chips off. I can’t belive how easy it comes off. We have never had this problem with the previous painting we have done. I will not be using this brand again, as I have to do my room all over again.
Don’t know why my room is the only room this is happening too?
Anyone have any idea or thoughts, what might be causing this, and if it is really the paint.

I just tried the Behr with primer on window trim–white over pink. It took three coats.

Regular behr in most rooms is great. I just touched up paint in living room originally put up three years ago. The paint separated, but a few minutes of stirring brought it together, and the match is perfect–so glad to not have to do the whole wall again. And surprised as there is a lot of light in is room.

I’ll not waste funds on ralph Lauren again. Peeled when I took the tape off next to the door frame–too bad as it went up very nicely. Yes it was all primed with appropriate primer for new drywall. The primer overlapped the new framing for door, so in my opinion, no excuse for the peeling. The real hassle was it wanted to peel all the way back–hard to stop the peel to fix that area.

I just tried out the Behr exterior primer/painter on a worn wooden outdoor swing. About 15 years old, never painted, stained, or treated. Very rough wood! Cleaned and prepped meticulously. The Behr (taupe) covered the wood with one coat, for better coverage of the rough grain, I used two. I love the thickness of the paint, the adhesion, and quality of the finish. It does dry quickly, so for this type of paint job, really had to stay on top of drips. It is thicker than the Aura I am also using now to refresh my garage door. I’ll have to wait to see how it lasts. Painted outside in hot weather.

I just purchased this product thinking it would be easier and faster than priming first, what a laugh it has taken 3 coats of paint and really should have 4 coats! it has cost me triple what I would normaly have paid using Benjamin Moore paint. I am covering a light blue paint with a medium to dark yellow paint. I will stick with Benjamin Moore from now on.

I bought this once – color “fortune cookie” = very light cream/yellow to cover a dark chocolate brown and a dark green in the kitchen. It covered amazingly in one coat. Next about 1 year later bought an orange color to cover very light green. It bleeds through the orange like I never thought it would. Why? wouldn’t you think a yellow would show the brown and the green? A darker orange over a lighter green and it bleeds through WTF? I called HD and they said that oranges, reds are finicky colors. WTH does that mean? Any ideas – I really want to avoid priming.

My wife and I recently went to Mississippi to help our son and his family paint the whole inside of their house so they could move in. This is their first house and they wanted what they thought was going to be the best paint. What a disappointment when we ended up painting most rooms double coated even after using kilz to cover a very light previous paint. The colors we were using was even dark and bright but still needed two coats with the primer in the paint. So after 800.00 dollars we were very upset and will never recommend or use this product again. A very disappointed customer.

What a waste. I’ve previously painted a burgundy accent wall and at the time was told I could expect 5+ coats to get an even, well coated wall. I did it in 3 with regular Behr Flat latex paint (using plain white Kilz as my primer). So, logically when the HD paint guy upsold me on the paint/ primer in one I expected “Red Velvet” to cover in less than 3 coats.

Not only has 2 coats not covered, but HD paint guy failed to point out that the paint/ primer is an enamel. So even though I made it clear I wanted a flat paint, it’s a flat enamel and I now have what looks like a satin finish. (I definitely take part responsibility for not paying closer attention, but HD guy could have also pointed out the difference).

So, day 4 of having my bedroom torn apart… I’m starting over with Kilz (will consider tinting it grey as mentioned a few times above) to block out this garish shiny red and starting over with a true flat paint.

We used the all in one exterior to paint 3 chicken coops and a hay wagon – over treated and untreated new wood, and weathered old wood. It was 70 deg, clean wood and dry when we painted. Three years of 24×7 outside – 0 to 110 degrees F, 70 kt winds, 2+ feet of snow, a couple tropical storms and full sunlight. Not a blister, chip or peel. We’re getting ready to paint our 110 year old bank dairy barn using it. Must be the good preparation, and painting when it is warm and dry. OF course, lots can change in a year where companies are finding all sorts of ways to cut costs so we’re going to test drive a gallon first.

I see that many say it is fine to use the Behr with primer included for drywall, but what about over compound (used to fix holes). When I put 2 coats over the compound it continues to “flash”. Not sure how to fix other than than try to sand down and start over again. So far not a fan of the Behr w/primer.

Remodeling a kitchen…drywaller removed popcorn and applied knockdown finish on ceilings. He specifically said NOT to use the Behr primer/paint. I will be using a primer from Miller paint for the new sheetrock and ceiling finish (hopefully just one topcoat for ceiling) and will follow up primed areas with 2 topcoats of Valspar or Miller’s Devine line of paint (love the Devine paint line…thick paint, doesn’t splatter, etc) for walls. Always go with 2 top coats…Miller is formulated in the Northwest for the type of weather we have; damp & rainy most of the time. Never a problem with Miller Paint..BTW love Miller’s Evolution Exterior for “this old house” of mine.

did not like the bher. did my house trim and got a free gallon when I told the paint mixer about the streaking. did not cover in one coat. still I did my house with more and as long as I used a roller it went so-so. on my sons house I went to a different home depot and had the same problem. I only got a galloon and will not get any more . will go to sherwin -williams and get same color and paint the rest of house. 5 more gallons.

After reading most of the comments I had decided against this paint but we really like one of the colors that only came in the Ultra series, and then Home Depot has these for the cost of the normal paint. So I grabbed a gallon and tried it on in a small half-bath. The walls were lightly sprayed with white by the builder, pretty cheaply at that. I just finished the first coat and if it wasn’t for my novice skills (have never painted before) we could already be done, it goes on that thick. I used Purdy Dove rollers and with a basic ‘M’ pattern it rolled on very well, with little to no roller markings showing even after only a few hours of drying time. I also used a Purdy 5″ XL brush for cutting-in but I need lots of practice as that looks pretty poor. So we are planing on doing a second cost so I can hide the messy brush strokes.

All-in-all I was worried that this paint was going to be a ‘bear’ to work with but so far it’s been quite good.

Applied a second coat after about 4 hours dry time, and I did a pretty poor job of slopping paint over the tape near the ceiling. The paint did tear in a few spots, but 99% of it came off clean. I have to say that the results are way beyond what I expected since I figured my first stab at this would look a bit sloppy. But the paint looks really even and even spots that I re-rolled a second or third time while wet to cover drips or marks dried very uniformly. I would say that the thickness of the paint seemed to make it more difficult to cut-in, but it rolled on well. The 3/8″ nap White Dove roller allowed me to cover a pretty wide area between loads.

Objectively I’d had to say that given the correct circumstances (I’m not trying to paint over damaged walls or bright red paint) and when used properly (quality brushes and following all the recommended prep and application directions) that this paint worked out very well.

My husband and I just bought a house in June, and the only paint we used was the behr ultra with primer. We did the entire basement in a dark red almost burgundy, and it covered all the ugly green that was previously there with one coat. Worked fantastic! So we chose the same kind of paint but in grey for the living room. The paint is fantastic. No wasted time with primer! I will always use Behr ultra for any other job we have in the house.

I bought Behr premium paint for a hallway and kitchen. It covered white over white ok though it had a tendency to spatter. We ventilated and used a fan and opened a window.I have to say by the time our project was done I was so nauseated by the smell I vowed to NEVER use Behr paint again. The can stated low VOC. It took about a week for us to recover. For the next project I used another brand with no side affects. I feel others should be aware for the sickening side affects we had from Behr paint

Just got done using the Behr paint with primer and I couldn’t be any happier. Excellent coverage. Absolutely very little to no smell. It did spatter a bit, but with some prep work…shouldn’t be an issue. Overall, very satisfied

Bought a 5BR home. Have been using Glidden and Martha Stewart paints with great success in all but 1 room. Bought the Behr w/ primer all-in-one and am highly disappointed. Paint is incredibly stringy and watered down. Seems like there is a viscosity issue. Stirred and painted immediately after purchase, so settling could not have been an issue. Anyway, this paint is significantly worse in quality and coverage, and just like everything else at Home Depot, is of questionable quality. I plan to try and return this paint and stick with my local hardware store or Lowe’s for future painting needs. Beware of Behr!

I cheated on my beloved Lowes store to buy this Behr primer paint all in one nonsense. I am so disappointed. I lightly sanded veneer and it didn’t stick. peeled it off, used an oil base primer and then after it cured I used the paint over it. one coat was not enough, so I let it settle for the time it said o the can. WELL, it started rolling in on itself. fortunately I didnt need it to be perfect. I chalked it up to the oil-based primer not working well with latex. I just used it on bare wood and the same thing happened – it starts bunching itself together. obnoxious.

Behr sucks for good quality work. I am the “Joe Handyman” only because I’m in the process of my contractors lic. Anyhoo look primer is primer paint is paint period, there is a differance. If your prep is shoty your end result will always look shoty, priming is a basic part of the preping process. Also there isnt a paint or primer out there that will cover in 1 coat when rolling (spraying will give a 1 coat coverage if your good). As far as flaws in drywall you have 2 choices, get a better drywaller so you can aply glossy paints even satin (lowest gloss lvl) or use flat and even then flaws will show just not as bad. I recomend washable flat in high trafic areas with an udercoat of primer, semi gloss in all areas that contain moisture ie bathrooms kitchens and laundry rooms. If you have new drywall PVA primer is a MUST. People don’t skimp on your projects paint & primer in 1 is nothing more than a sales gimmic and designed to target those that don’t know. Take pride in your work and the work will last.

no it will not. Oil based paints will not accept waterbase paints hence water oil do not mix ever however primer is a whole differant ballgame. When you paint waterbase paint over oil base paint the paint will eventually peel off in sheets. What I suggest you do is sand the ceiling so that there is no sheen what-so-ever im talkin go to town on it, what this does is it etches the surface so that the next coat will adhear itself. I would use an oil base primer such as kills, as I said before primer is primer paint is paint. You can put latex waterbase paint over oil based PRIMER but not over oil base paint, what the oil base primer does is it seals the oil base paint to allow for waterbase paint + you get the added moister protection. I would then sand the ceiling again, wipe off all the dust and use either a semi-gloss or eggshell finsh. Again paint is paint primer is primer there is a differance and oil and water base paints DO NOT MIX. hope this helps. 10 years exp prof painting interior/exterior residential and commercial also 4 years exp painting cars.

I have used Behr paints in the past, and I think they are OK – not my favorite brand, but OK. But on to the PAINT PLUS PRIMER ALL IN ONE! This is easily the WORST, WORST, WORST paint product I have used in a long time. Poor coverage, it pulls agaisnt the brush (and it is a very good brush!), it does not self-level at all, and it does not sand well. Enough said. AWFUL!! I will NEVER again use it. I tried it on a wall and on some furniture I was refinishing, and it was just AWFUL in both instances.

I JUST FINISHED PAINTING MY KITCHEN AND IT LOOKS WONDERFUL. BERH PAINT AND PRIMER IN ONE COVERED MY CLOUD FILLED CEILING OF BLUE AND WHITE TO A CACTUS GREEN AND YOU DONT SEE ANY CLOUDS PEEKING THRU. THIS PAINTS GREAT! NOW ON MY NEXT PROJECT WHICH IS MY LIVING ROOM WILL LOOK FOR A COORDINATING COLOR OF WARM CHERRY TO GO ON THE WALLS TO MATCH MY NEW INTERIOR WINDOW SHUTTERS.

A good method to see how well the paint product you just aplied is is to take you fingure press it firmly on the wall and rub upwards. If you prep is good and the paint is good no paint will sheet off. If you didnt sand and painted over semigloss as most ppl do your fingure will remove a section of the paint. Also watch for the bubbles air pockets that moisture got trapped in as the paint was drying (usually happens with shoty work), when the tempurature in the house gets warm the air inside that bubble will expand and it will be very noticable. If you have these problems I recomend sanding and priming and not using an all-in-one paint and primer. Shoty paint jobs only look good for about 1 year if that.You just happend to get lucky on you choice of color too green cancels out blue.

I just finnished painting my kitchen with Behr Premium Plus Ultra paint and primer in one. I have always used Behr paints and was very satisfied with the results, so I decided to try the paint and primer product. BIG MISTAKE! The actual painting went very well, and it looked great, but let me tell you what I found after. When replacing some of the wall plates I accidently dragged one across the new paint. Well it took the new paint off like I was using a razor. In another spot I had gotten some paint on some molding, and took a damp cloth to try and remove it. Well it took it off AND some of the new paint on the wall (wasn’t rubbing hard).
This paint doesn’t stick like it would if I had primed first. Now we have to be careful not to have anything touch the wall for fear that the paint will come off. The big thing is that there is no saving it. Even if I want to prime an repaint, the primer would be going over the paint that doesn’t stick…, so the same thing will happen if something is rubbed against the wall. Take the extra time and prime seperately!!

I love Behr paint and use it more than other brands. I also am a fan of the paint and primer in one. I painted my kitchen a deep red, painting over printed vinyl wall boards that were white pink and blue. 2 coats covered it completely and it’s beautiful. I like how it goes on and the coverage. My friends are die-hard Sherwin Williams paint fans but I am not a fan of how thin Sherwin Williams paint seems to be and I have trouble with that paint running and dripping. Not Behr. I will continue to use Behr products.

have used behr paint forever and have been satified with the results from south texas to the state of washington…..no problem with ur paint. but i just used your new all in one paint ,,, you know the new stuff with primer in it,,,,, over rated,,,, white over white!!!!!!!!!!!!! aand didnt cover with one coat mmmmmmmmm not worth the cost……won’t buy again… i will but your paint again because it does the job . don’t like to be duped ,,,,,,,,guess i’ll start putting the second coat on my high cost “primer” paint job…..

My husband and I are in the process of getting our house professionally painted. Our painter, Ron, recommended Frazee paints and primers, but said he would use any paint we wanted. After a lot of research online, reading forums and rating sites, we decided on Behr Ultra Premium in a soft dusty Sage color. Ron said he would recommend against it, he said there is a purpose for primer, that’s why they make it and that he was skeptical. After painting one side of our house, he had to admit that it has awesome coverage and coated beautifully, even over the dark brown paint samples we slathered on the house. The next day he showed up to get started and said he had one heck of a time getting the paint off his hands, it bonded that well. He finished the house last night, but he still needs to paint the trim. He finished about 4pm and it started raining at midnight/2am. I ran out this morning to check the paint, a little afraid what I’d find and the house is just fine. REAL happy.

I think it’s more about technique than paint. Our painter used an air painter and the coverage is great. Now I realize he is painting over a light brown color and not red, coverage over barn red or chocolate may be different, but we are pleased with our results.

Oh, and yes, the Satin looks more like a semi-gloss, but it is a very rich sheen and should be supper durable and washable.

I used this paint yesterday to cover a navy blue color with a very pale green. One coat covered everything! I trimmed and painted a 15×14 room in 3 hours. I also used white on my trim which was an oil based paint… This stuck to it with ease, and looks amazing! A+ product! I reccommended it hands down!

This is good paint. I have used some of the more expensive paints and this is actually a lot better.
The funny thing about most people complaining is they have no idea how to prep correctly or even stated that they did anything to prep.
I cant believe some of things I am reading and they blame it on the paint. Learn how to prep the walls the right way and you will find this paint is pretty good.

I just had my first and last experience with Behr Premium Plus (self priming). It may work well on finished surfaces but not on new drywall. I used powdered snow in a satin finish. A friend painted my walls while I did the ceiling(with ceiling paint over primer). She kept complaining about getting “chunks” off of the roller. Then my seams started to show. It looked better when it was dry but, obviously, one coat was not going to cover. Today I started the second coat. At the right angle of light I saw where she got the “chunks”, the paint actually lifted some of the drywall mud out of the screw holes. Holes that were sanded perfectly flat are now indented. If you look straight at the wall it looks pretty good but, if you look down the wall with light on it, you can see every place that has “any” drywall mud on it, roller marks and shiny spots. It’s horrible. Many hours of work wasted. A third coat, after repairs of course, may help but I’m not risking it. I will repair, prime and paint like I have always done before.

I need to win a bet! I have an autumn orange in my bedroom. I need to repaint to painters beige. If I get a primer with beige in it, and add another coat of beige, will it bleed through and need another coat?

To all those complaining about defects in their walls and satin/gloss issues and also one coat non coverage. READ THE CAN! The instructions (as with 99% of the on shelf products) will explain how the product is to be used. The wall condition has 110% of the outcome decided of what the finished product will look like.

I had used kilz,BM, SW, and a host of other paints trying to cover smoke damage with oil seepage and water marks in my house. The really scary part about all of this is that every product I used still allowed the damage to “seep” through the paint (yes, I used 4 coats of primer as well to test coverage needs). The only course of action was for me to replace all of the drywall! and start fresh again. Well the work involved on replacing the drywall for 1100 square feet is not an easy task as it is me only to do the work so this job would have cost me THOUSANDS to complete or hire a team to get it done.

I figured what the heck, let’s try this paint. It can’t be any worse that I have already used (without success). And lo and behold, imagine that, IT WORKED! all areas were covered and the damage is now hidden, of course there were a bunch of areas that needed to be re-finished on the drywall. But the important thing is this paint COVERED THE STAINS! ALL OF THE STAINS!

So instead of complaining about the paint, try reading the can to see what the MFG recommends and “FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS” maybe you’ll have success such as I did.

BTW, just a note, ALL PAINT NEEDS TO BE APPLIED IN AT LEAST 2 COATS! So this is more like a 3 coat paint instead of a 2 coat paint (IE: 1 coat for primer 2 coats of paint) Even the MFG says this.

Robbsays:I had used kilz,BM, SW, and a host of other paints trying to cover smoke damage with oil seepage and water marks in my house. The really scary part about all of this is that every product I used still allowed the damage to “seep” through the paint

You should have used a shellac or oil based primer. They are getting harder to find and more expensive due to laws on VOCs but are still the best for stain covering and the only primers that will cover non water based stains consistently. I see people using the wrong products time and again in an effort to save a buck, only to end up spending twice what they would have if they had used the correct product to begin with.

I’ve never painted over smoke damage before but I have used Zinsser Oil Primer-Sealaer Stain Killer – COVER STAIN on raw pine and it is a Tannin Blocker. It covers the knots in pine wood. So if it can block tannin bleed it might block smoke damage. I would recommend calling Rustoleum 1-800-387-3625 who sells Zinsser to ask if it’ll block smoke damage. It may, but if not they would probably tell you what will….good luck.

whew!! Can’t believe I just sat here and read ALL these comments and I’m still as undecided as ever whether or not to use Behr. And if the choosing of paint color wasn’t wasn’t hard enough, now I gotta worry about this! yikes. Think I’ll just stick to Glidden. Thanks everyone for you time in posting though. BTW–anyone know where I can find Ben Moore?>:)

Like any product, there are a million different opinions. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I have used this product for three projects, a pink kid’s room, painting over bright yellow; a light yellow bathroom over light blue; and a darker clay color over white in my kitchen. The first two projects I completed myself, the kitchen project was completed by a contractor.

I found the coverage and finish to be excellent on the bedroom and bathroom projects. One coat covered, even painting pink over bright yellow. The finish looks great and professional. I take great pride in doing the job well, so I agonize to make sure there are no roller lines. If I recall correctly, I used satin finish in the bathroom and eggshell in the kid’s room.

The Kitchen project didn’t come out as well. I didn’t do this job myself so I don’t know what went into the work. In this case, the finish was blotchy and uneven, as others have commented. I think we chose the eggshell finish for this project as well.

Overall I have been impressed with this product. The coverage is great and I haven’t had any problems with durability. I am about to paint our entire basement, currently unpainted drywall and am curious how this product will hold up. It’s a huge project, ceiling, walls, and trim (including caulk), so cutting time would be great! But I also want to do the job right! Anyone have experience with this paint on new drywall?

I used this product on all the rooms in my house without priming. I have small children so I thought this would be the best option. Stain resistant-joke. It turned out to be the worst option for me. My walls do not look as pretty and nice as my friends walls do. So, in keeping with tradition I will simply get primer and enough paint for two coats. Three years into my house and I am having to paint all the rooms again.

Paint and primer in one sucks. You get 6 inches along with a brush and if you have to retouch it pulls itself right back off of the wall. same with a roller you have to be really careful or you will pull it off the wall, you cant backroll. Prime first then paint, this product is a joke and would not recommend it to anyone and I tell my customers the same.

honestly if ya have any question on behr products don’t hesitate to call there 800 number the staff is great and can solve just about any problems and if not hell they offer to find the answer and return your call unheard of nowadays i thankyou

Three years ago I painted tje exterior of my rental property with Behr Primer Plus. Previously I had painted exclusively with oil base paint. The Behr paint has held up far better than the oil base I painted over. I have been very very pleased.

I just painted the interior of my house and this paint went on well, hid any marks on the walls, and looked good. Our problem is that it smells HORRIBLE. Like dog poop. I like fresh paint smell but this isn’t it. Its literally like dog poop. We have to leave all the windows open to breathe. I hope it goes away soon.

I have used many paints in my life, but this is by far the worst. The combined paint primer is supposed to cut down on time and coats, but I had to do three coats to cover a light tan wall and am still not happy with the finish as there are patches that are still not well covered. If I were a starter I would say maybe I did not know what I was doing, but I have painted more walls in more houses than I care to recall. Really a disappointment based on the recommendation at Home Depot.

I like Behr paints and use them inside and out. They go on smoothly, have low odor, good coverage, and interior walls are easy to clean. From now on, I will only buy the interior/exterior type to reduce the number of paint cans lying around.

BEHR Paint & Primer in One or Self-Priming paint is by far the poorest quality paint on the market.

First of all, you don’t mix primer and paint together. The pigments in primer and paint are for two different applications. Primer is a sealant and generally has a high pigment content or Pigment Volume Concentration (PVC) and is use for undercoating.

Paint is for top coating. Paint consist of three chemicals; the pigment, binder and thinner. These three chemicals must be blended in the correct proportions. Mixing primer and paint together alter the balance of these chemicals. The incompatibilities between primer and paint mixed together can result in lifting, wrinkling, poor covering and a lack of adhesion and therefore should not be mixed.

Never buy paint mixed with primer. If you’re doing a paint job then use primer first and then use paint for your top coat. If you buy paint mixed with primer all you are getting is colored primer which is not recommend for use as a top coat.

Paint mixed with primer should only be used as an undercoating if you are trying to paint a light color over a dark color, and then use the same color paint for your top coat.

And if you want a good quality paint then use Valspar. Valspar is one of the top ten paint brands in the world.

Valspar ??? Really ??? Cheapo Crapo.. We just started painting with Behr paint&primer in one. First off Mixing!!! the can thoroughly is why you are getting streaks people. Looks like one coat is all that will be needed it’s a great paint. Just be sure to apply as per Directions !!! Like not on a 90+ degree in direct sunlight. We used Valspar porch&floor and it chips easily that is a low quality paint.

I just finished last weekend painting a “feature wall” with Behr premium paint and primer in Ruby Red. 6 COATS of paint I needed….it was awful.. and I still can see shine in one place matt in the other… I will never buy Behr again. Terrible coverage…

I have recently painted two rooms and a hallway with these paints. I’d say it went pretty well. I only used the flat finish, so it’s pretty hard for that to be blotchy. I was also painting walls with textured finish (ugh). Even then I didn’t need a full second coat on any of the walls, just some touch ups in a few spaces because of the texture. Paint and primer in one still probably isn’t the best choice, but it worked out for me.

I love Behr ! Great coverage… is everyone stirring their paint before they use it ? They give you a stir stick for a reason :0)

Brand new Tuffshed – bare wood inside – sprayed one heavy coat of self priming White ! Covered awesomely ! White has no pigment so it doesn’t cover well (another reason for a million off whites on the market) but Behr’s high coverage White is the best covering “White” I’ve come across in over 30 years of painting ~

Despite the many claims that this paint is perfectly fine and problems are due to poor surface preparation or application, there are an overwhelming number of people reporting problems and I’m another one. For all I know this stuff maybe works OK for some people in some situations. Maybe it depends on the factory it came from and lot (some of us got a ‘lemon’), or maybe it works well with some colours and not others — I don’t know, but after proper surface prep, a primer then a brush coat, it was terribly blotchy — some shiny patches, some dull, brush marks showing etc. Tried another coat with a roller with the same result. Did a light sanding and tried a test section 3rd coat with the non-primer variety — same deal. The paint just felt funny too — not a smooth pull on the brush. Finally bought CIL Premium and it feels and looks like paint is supposed to. Even if Behr refunds my paint costs, I’ve paid 40+ hours in extra wasted labour.

I should mention that the above post was in reference to the exterior paint (on cedar siding). We also recently used the interior version in two bathrooms, and while the results were better than the exterior, there were/are still issues with water/condensation lines showing, shininess showing up where towels hang etc. The bathrooms are well ventilated and we allowed for a week of drying time before hanging towels.

Read lots pf great ratings about Behr paints. Wife found what we wanted at Home depot, got the super white ultra, primer and paint in one.
Reaults- on painted plaster 2 coats to cover
on wooden bead board 3 coats after first using Kilzprimer.
on painted wood work 2 coats

All 3 situations were over light neutral colors.
I’m going back to Bennie Moore contractor paint

I used this and it is TERRIBLE.
This mix of paint is the worst.
I wish I read reviews before I bought it.
Left my porch with yellow marks and spots that looked like I painted with two different colors.
I would return but how do you do that after you used it?!
I’m no stranger to paint and this stuff sucks.
I will be painting this porch over again.
I will consider this $40.00 can my primer coat.
NEVER BUY THIS PRODUCT !!!!!!

I totally hate this paint…the paint and primer in one was the worst paint I have ever used. I thought it was just me, but after looking up these reviews, I find it is not “just me”…I should have checked here first before buying it. So sorry that I got it…and I have used Behr products for years…I think I will return the rest of it, since I have one can not even opened.

Holy loads of opinions! I find it all so suspicious… All these people without full names trashing Behr paint. But I’ve used it myself a lot and it’s never been anything but good paint. I bought a house in 2007 and since then have used only Behr Premium or Premium Plus with primer, stain for my fence and satin enamel for my inside walls and flat paint the outside. It wasn’t hard to deal with at all. It’s paint. It always covers in one coat except the deep dark colors over light ones. The velvet red dining room took three coats on top of pink primer. 90% of the time it’s one coat plus maybe touch up if I was sloppy.

My only other experience was with a can of the cheapest light blue semigloss at the store – my tenants bought it for their bathroom and I liked the color so I tried it out. It was actually a real pain – it didn’t seem to stick to the roller or the wall. Weird. The first coat looked splotchy. The tenant said it took him three coats in his bathroom. It cost $18, but personally I’d rather pay more to get done faster. I don’t work for Home Dept or Behr – my industry is totally unrelated. I’m not a pro, just a guy with a Home Depot nearby.
A friend of mine works for Sherwin Williams and *swears* that Behr is crap and S-W is better. He’s a really nice guy and not a liar and I’m sure he believes it. Maybe S-W is better – I can’t think of what I’d want improved about Behr though so I’d rather not drive farther and pay 50% more than already not-cheap Behr.
I’d bet money that anyone who just says “behr is crap” is either an employee of another paint company or didn’t do any prep or just has no idea how to paint a wall. Maybe the exact kinds I’ve happened to use work great (I choose in part based on CR reviews) and bad experiences are with sucky varieties but for whatever reason I’ve just never had anything but nice result and no drama.

I used several Behr acrylic paints on the wood boat and always worked out ok. Painting the boat since 1998 and I get a good 7 years out of the paints easy.

For the waterline stripe used ultra semigloss exterior.
Yes, it takes about 3 coats to cover the underlying bright white. Seeing as I wanted a perfect looking smooth finish, I put the paint on using a chip brush first 2 coats. Then I wet sanded with 180 grit by hand. I then put on 2 more coats using the foam brush, looks very good. I then lightly wet sanded again. For he final 2 coats I thinned the paint with Walmart RV RED antifreeze, works great like XIM Extender as it has propylene glycol, water and ethanol. Foam brush lays down a nice brush mark free surface and the extender guarantees smooth flowing of paint. So I now have a gorgeous boot stripe on the boat.

For the white hull top sides, I mixed together 2 gallon cans interior BEHR primer and paint semigloss, and one can exterior BEHR gallon Ultra primer and paint.
Interior paint dries to harder surface, so adding in exterior modifies the surface to be less hard but still slightly harder than if it was all 3 gallons exterior paint. Since it is white, color will stay white in sunlight even having some interior paint outside. So anyway it worked fine for me. I have seen interior paints outside fade colors. I imagine some colors will fade over many years even if exterior paint is used outside. I actually like the harder paint surface that what pure exterior semigloss paint gives you. Will see what happens this time as I never used interior paint on the outside of the boat.

I will never use this paint again. I purchased several gallons of interior and exterior with the same results — extreme fading within one year. So here we go again repainting inside AND outside this 5000+ square foot house … not something we had planned on investing in so soon. I am so very disappointed in this product, and I do not recommend the Behr interior or the exterior paint with primer added.

Bought behr plus premium hoping to get great coverage, was painting two bedrooms that were white. Painted all the trim, had to paint the trim again. Was painting the rooms white. Painted the walls had to paint them again also. After everything dried, walls look good but trim, corners, door frames etc. need another coat. Paint did not go on well at all. Very disappointed, because I thought with the money I spent I would be getting premium paint.

This paint SUCKS!!!! NEVER AGAIN!!! Very difficult to get it to stay on the walls. Ugh….wiping, wiping, wiping as it is running, running, running off the walls! It just doesn’t dry quickly, it is thick and gooky and it just runs down. Quadruple the work! Save yourself…DON’T USE BEHR!!!!! Glidden is far superior.

I agree with others prep is very important! Whether you use Behr or another if it’s new dry wall it needs to be primed 1st & not with a paint & primer combo a primer/sealer whether it’s a pva primer due to new texture/new dry wall or as I prefer a combo primer by Behr or Zinsser’s prime coat. Then there’s adhesive primers as Behr, Zinsser, Gliddens Gripper & Zinsser’s Bin…..

If an interior home has not been painted for over 3 – to more years it’s best to prime 1st!

I’ve done fine with Behr as with other paints! One mistake that some do is not knowing if an existing paint is latex or oil…..

No latex paint will adhere to an oil paint! Another problem some have is latex cure time is 3-4 weeks or 21-30 days not 3-7 days as oil paint! Full cure time is not dry time there is a difference… Dry time can range 1 – 2 hours to the touch… Cure time is when paint reaches it’s maximum hardness & is completely 100% dry….(That’s when it can’t scratch off or you put an indent by pressing your fingernail…..

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I’m having a nightmare painting my master bedroom! If any of you nice folks can give me some advice I would love to hear from you… I’m using Behr ultra and primed walls before applying. Plus, I’m dealing with press paper walls and skim coated seams after removing the strips. Yes, it’s a modular home and I’m suffering from paint shadows,big time. You look at the mystic sea paint ” Light green satin” from the front they look perfect !!! Then, move to the side and look over wall and it’s hideous with shadows ??? Why ??? Why ??? Please help !!!
Thanks. Jeff
Naples, fl…

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We purchased the Marque best BEHR paint and was told it was a one coat. We painted this bathroom a peach color over a lite grey. Terrible coverage. $43.00 for paint that has terrible coverage. I called Home Depot and that was a waste of time, They gave me the BERH 800 #. It is Saturday May 21 2016

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