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*** there is much better information here in the forums and in the guides section, please look elsewhere first. however, i was still lost even after so many kind people helped. i wrote this to a friend, and though its not 100% accurate, it does say some things maybe better then other posts do not. again, look at more thourough guides on casing and what not first!!!!**

stage 1: 80-85 degrees (estimates). use a heating pad on low, close your bedroom door, and keep them by the heater. your going to want 24 hour darkness, your going to want some moister near by (leave a wet towel about a foot away from the bag). i got a big box, and cover it up and put a towel over it.

what you do is take about 4cc and shoot it into the myco bag. shoot it near the walls, not poking holes in the bag. make it like 1 cc in the middle, 1 near the top and 2 ccs on the sides.

leave this bag for about 2 weeks (longer if its colder. think of 5 degrees less as 1 week longer, if it was 70 degrees it would take 4 not 2 weeks). eventually white spiderweb like material will grow. you want this to spread through the whole bag, it will turn into a big white softball like material. once the whole grain material is white, you can start stage 2.

i steralyze each step in the microwave (not the spore shit though!!!!). so, for example, i take my plastic tupaware container (should be at least 6 inches tall, breathable so air can exchange and lockable but not air tight!)... so rub this down with alcohol and whipe it out with paper towel. then you'll need your"peat moss and vermiculite/perlite" or "coco coir and vermiculite", however i could not find the white air pebbles that hold moister for soil called vermiculite/perlite (look at shroomery's casing guides) and i used peat moss and coco coir only (about 10$ total). the goal for casing is to hold moister, the mycobag then uses the mositer to spread and grow.

break up about a deck of cards worht of coco coir and fill a bowl up with petemoss. (look at guides if you want other forms of casing with perlite)... so i had about 75% petemoss because the dry cococoir is small. it blows up like a sponge once it hits water. you break it up and mix these together. microwave it for like a minute until its steamy and hot. then microwave 1 glass of water. add about 2-3% (about 1 shot glass worth) of peroxide (brown bottle shit) to the water to sterlize even more it will evaporate shortly.

so you mix this in the bowl, this will be the bottom of your casing, you might want to do this twice to make it a deeper casing that works better. the water shouldn't be visible it should be fully absorbed. no sitting water, but no dry spots, nice and damp.

add this to the bottom (do it twice if you want more casing), and flatten it out so its even (not pressed firmly but evenly accross). then take your myco bag, to reduce contamination, you'll want to break it up in the bag first. then once its all crumbled and small as you can get it. cut it open and shake it across your casing.... use a sanitized spoon (clean with alcohol) to spread it across evenly again over your casing. then take 1 more casing layer (1/2 of what you used on the bottom, to apply over the top)...

usually its like this (two layers of casing, 1 layer of the bag stuff, 1 layer of casing on top), you want your bottom layer of casing about 3/4"-1" thick, then a small layer over the bacteria stuff on top.

step 3: once its done, you'll want to put it back in a dark place, however! the temps will be different. about 73-76 degrees is best. to hot and to cold will stunt growth. you might have to much water, so be careful with moister, if tons of water beads form, be very careful about removing them because contamination is very risky!!!

you will leave it in complete darkness for about a week, eventually everything will turn white and crazy again. look at shroomery.org about patching. sometimes half of the casing is ready(white) and the other half is still brown. you could do a half layer more of casing to make things spread evenly or move onto the next stage.... if you see any coming up, move onto stage 4 immediately

stage 4: at this stage your ready to move onto a 12 on 12 off light cycle. if its fully colonized (all white) you could sprinkle that little layer of casing over the top or just try the 12 on /off. if there are no little ones yet, they will start growin in 3-5 days or less! once they ***

sprout, it will take about 2-6 days for them to finish, or less

notes:temps are importantsanitation is importantto much moister (looks like rain) can be bad, lightly clean the top of your container and it will be enoughuse florecent light, or something not ultra violet... keep it about 1foot-3feet away, not to important they just need to know which way is up

dont change temps! dont have it 60 one day and 80 the next then 70, try to keep it at one level. 75 degrees is better then changing it alot.

"stage 1: 80-85 degrees (estimates). use a heating pad on low, close your bedroom door, and keep them by the heater. your going to want 24 hour darkness, your going to want some moister near by (leave a wet towel about a foot away from the bag). i got a big box, and cover it up and put a towel over it."

There should be a warning to be carful in doing things with a heating pad. Not all heating pads are created equal, and its very easy to overheat your bag/jars with this.

"step 3: once its done, you'll want to put it back in a dark place, however! the temps will be different. about 73-76 degrees is best. to hot and to cold will stunt growth. "

You do not want to stunt growth yet. Thats why its a week before your ready to fruit it. Put it back into the incubator at this point at 80-84 degrees and let it colonize the casing layer for only 2-3 days. Then fruit it exposing it to light, drop the temp, and fresh air...the three pinning triggers hit all at ONCE.

Add to your notes also, very important to mist and keep proper moisture of the casing layer. And VERY VERY VERY important, is as much fresh air exchange (while keelping them humid still) as possible.

"once they sprout, it will take about 2-6 days for them to finish, or less"

Less then 2-6 days, would be 1 day. They wont finish that quick

As he said at the top, there are much more thourogh guides that explain things better and more correctly...but hey to you for taking time to write this up for those completly confused by all the complications of doing things by the book. There are some other things I could go into with it, but nothing so relivant (you should try vermiculite in your casing layer though, not perlite..it will help water retention)

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