Tuesday, 6 February 2018

Burda of the month: 5/2017 #111 layered dress

I'm still playing catch up with my 2017 Burda of the month projects, and I'm so glad I've made this one because it has turned out so well. This is 5/2017 #111, which is a simple sheath dress with an interesting layered front:

I chose to make my dress from a black and white plaid fabric that I bought a while ago from The Remnant Warehouse. It has a slight amount of stretch which was a godsend because this dress turned out very form fitting! I put the two bodice layers on the bias in opposite directions to make them stand out more but that bottom layer is mostly covered up by the top layer and only a corner of it is visible:

Once I figured the pattern out this was a really simple dress but I did struggle to work out the front section until I went back to the pattern layout and discovered that you need to cut out two front bodice linings. Essentially one bodice lining is sewn to the skirt fabric and forms the bottom layer, the two bodice pieces are place on top and sewed at the neckline and side seams, and the second bodice lining is sewn as a traditional lining that encloses the raw seams.

After the bodice is sewn the rest is just a standard sheath dress. I tried really hard to get the plaids to match since the white lines were screamingly obvious on the black fabric and I think I succeeded. I did have to shift the darts at the back slightly to make sure they were in the black section and not on a white line so they aren't symmetrical but at least the vertical lines match up at the back waist seam, and the horizontal lines match up at the side seams.

I've made my usual size 34 at the bust, grading out to a 36 at the waist and a 40 at the hips and the fit is very snug. The dress is fine because it has that bit of stretch, but I used a non-stretch lining that I had to let out at the side seams as far as it would go because it was too tight. If I make this again I probably would size up from the waist down so I don't feel the need to suck my stomach in all day!

Overall I think this is a great pattern - a simple shape with a point of difference. It would look great both in a solid fabric or with a print fabric for the bodice, or even colour blocking for the different pieces. The shoulder darts are great for fitting to avoid that gaping that I sometimes get in dresses due to my narrow shoulders, and I always prefer a dress with a waist seam because it's easier to fix a sway back. So I highly recommend this pattern, and I think I will make it again.....one day, when my to do list is a bit shorter!