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Jul 4, 2015

He's the man I made that size 44" shirt muslin for last weekend. Today he came by for a fitting. (Yes, I work holidays.)
Other than a slight sloping shoulder adjustment in back, I don't think there's much work to be done.

The base pattern I used was Simplicity 8541 from 1988.
I shortened the collar a little but otherwise sewed it straight from the envelope and it
went together without a hitch. If you're in the market for a slightly
fitted shirt pattern, I recommend this one (and it's relatively easy to find online).

Below is Zack in a Ralph Lauren shirt he gave me as a sample of what he generally wears in RTW and how it fits. (I also took his measurements.) I think the slimmer line and slightly longer collar of the muslin are much more flattering. He agrees -- and so does his girlfriend Christina.

Zack wasn't sure about what color shirt he wants, so with Christina and Michael's help, we tested a variety of colors and patterns from my fabric stash. We think he looks best in salmon-y pinks, olive-y greens, and more delicate prints (Michael thinks he's an Autumn.). Fabrics with a sheen really bring out the warm glow in Zack's complexion. See if you agree.

The following are the ones we liked best:

I'm really excited to be sewing for Zack and delighted that the muslin fit as well as it did. (And a big thank-you to him for being such a good sport.) I'll keep you updated as the project proceeds.

26 comments:

Wow .........you are quite the busy "sewing bee"! Love that red and white striped along with the green......but my favorite is that beautiful salmon pink! Thanks for keeping me inspired and motivated!!

On both the RTW shirt and the muslin, I see diagonal drape lines from Zach's waist to his chest (or, what we females would call the bust apex). This looks exactly like the drape lines I am dealing with as I develop a shirt sloper for my son - I have come to regard the cause as DS having pecs that are the equivalent of an A cup bust! If you and Zach elect to alter for this issue, I'll follow your solution with interest since I haven't been roaringly successful. (I did an FBA and rotated the dart into the side seam, but the drape lines still need work.)

BTW, I guess I'm a colar contrarian - I think Zach is a winter and I like the dark charcoal tropical print the best.

I agree about the drape lines, however this is not an area I would choose to fit too closely on a man. Take a look at Vogue 8889, which has both back and side panels. With that pattern you should be able to get a more fitted look without darts.

The new early fall releases by McCalls has a mes shirt with front seam details. Would be an easy way to make adjustments w/o using any darts.http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7206-products-50376.php?page_id=96

I am sewing new look 6232 for my son - and now that I've set in the sleeves I am shocked to find that the pattern offers NO suggestions for seam finishes! I suppose I'm supposed to pink them or serge the seam allowances!? Neither sounds acceptable. I wish I had known before beginning the pattern. So what about simplicity 8541? How does it say you should finish the seams? Btw - I like the salmon and the green as well.

Flat-felled seams is the traditional finish. You can find instructions for this in most any sewing book. You can also serge or pink them -- that isn't wrong, it just isn't what you see in ready-to-wear. Simplicity 8541 does not address seam finishes either.

You have the most agreeable clients! I can't imagine too many people posing for Internet photos, but maybe I'm just old. The salmon pink does look great on him. Looking forward to seeing the finished product and how you handle the pattern alterations. Do you have a favorite fit manual for men? I haven't found one yet.

A fitting manual specifically for men? Not really, no. I find that most alterations are similar for men's and women's bodies; if anything, men are easier to fit -- generally they're flatter up front and more rectangular.

Love the salmon fabric and the small. print on Zack, and the olive will be a good looking staple for him that I'm sure he will wear a lot. Your muslin for this shirt looks really good, by the way -- I don't know what the fabric hand is like but it looks totally wearable. I'm glad your clients are allowing you to post their fitting photos online so we can learn from you!

I think he's a spring or a winter - I LOVE the turquoise and black on him, and think you should make the shirt out of that fabric! Also, very fond of the black/charcoal/peach hawaiian print.

As for drag lines, yes... keep us posted. Working on some shirts for my husband and the fitting for a woman vs. fitting for a man is very different, especially through the shoulders and upper chest/bust area. (Different figure-flattery priorities - women usually choose to have a more narrow appearing shoulder, which widens/rounds the chest visually and men choose to put the shoulder point out further, which creates a trapezoid from the waist, widening and *flattening* the upper torso visually).

Have you played with the armscye? It seems a tad high - not for a woman's shirt, but for a man's, and the desired "flat, wide chest" look. ??

The muslin makes Zack look trim. Can't ask for too much more from a garment's fit. I find that sometimes when a client does not have a color or fabric choice that someone else's opinion can be helpful. It can take a while for the client to learn and make confident choices on his/her own. It's never good when the client's opinion is in reserve until after the garment has been completed to decide if the color and fabric is a good choice. A trip to Mood's mens' shirting fabric section with the client would not be a waste of time.

I am always amazed at how industrious you are. I like the turquoise and black plaid on him the best, followed by the red and white stripes. Except for the olive, the muted colors don't seem to work with his coloring, IMHO.

I agree with Michael: the way he pulls off that salmon pink and the sage, he's gotta be an Autumn. There's too much warmth in his skin for him to be a winter --- though a computer monitor isn't the most reliable tool for color discernment! The tiny floral at the end looks great on him too!

a boy, a dream, and 10+ sewing machines

I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!