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I have an xvalve I desperately want to shoot ropes

Will a ULE help me tune my xvalve to Response trigger?

All I want it 10 to 15 bps...
My valve is totaly capable of RTing, I put a classic rt on-off in it and it RTed wit no problem. Onlg problem is the pin is broken so I need a new one... I have tried to use 147 lengh on-off pin but its still a little too short, I need somthing like a 50...

if you want to shoot 10-15 bps consistently, reliability, and cheaply ... i'd go buy a different gun.

Yea, what do you shoot, a spyder? I mean their cheap, they work, and are capable of 10-15BPS. Just about every single paintball gun can shoot 10-15 BPS, what matters is performance, efficiency, comfort and weight and overall personal preference, in the case of everybody happy with what they have, that means they have reached what they prefer. Don't join this forum and budge in on threads telling people to get different markers, actually stay on topic and help them out with their tech issue instead of telling them what to do with their money.

Brassmag- the X-valve is already easily capable of 10-15 BPS, it just matters how good you are with the trigger, but a ULT (a ULE is just a body) will definitely give you that ability.

I would say a double trigger frame (like an Intelli or one of its variants) and a ULT will be fine. But if you are looking to rip and go for bounce then get a shorter pin (stock pin still works fine) and get 950+psi input into your valve.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, like spider Tw said below, the ULT does not make it more reactive, it make an easier and quicker trigger pull that you can "almost" walk. So you could still get around 10-15 with the ULT though. Wasn't sure if you we're looking for more reactivity though.

A ULT on/off will not improve your reactive trigger. The stock RT on/off is the best start. The pin doesn't often break by itself. It usually breaks when the valve is pulled out of the body without pulling the trigger first to push the pin up inside the on/off body. Sometimes a missing rail bushing lets the frame/sear and valve get sideways and hang up the pin as well. You had it right. Put it back in order and be nice to it. It should continue to RT all you want.

I do want the reactive trigger feel. I want that machine gun mag ... so I dont think I want ULT.

And you did conferm what I expected that I need a 150 or longer pin that I can shave down if I have too...
I also think I need slippery orings. The rt classic on-off lis really slick but the xvalve onoff is grippy...

Any more info would be great I feel that I am all ready on my way to a solution and I am impressed. Thank you all

One other problem.. I cant get ahold of agd.. I have been calling all week and last week. Any help?

Yea, what do you shoot, a spyder? I mean their cheap, they work, and are capable of 10-15BPS. Just about every single paintball gun can shoot 10-15 BPS, what matters is performance, efficiency, comfort and weight and overall personal preference, in the case of everybody happy with what they have, that means they have reached what they prefer. Don't join this forum and budge in on threads telling people to get different markers, actually stay on topic and help them out with their tech issue instead of telling them what to do with their money.

ooo lots o hate. i also like the join date argument, cuddos, did you look at mine? hahaha

just sayin, if the goal is to shoot ropes, a 250 dollar gun will do it better, easier, and cheaper then any automag.

ooo lots o hate. i also like the join date argument, cuddos, did you look at mine? hahaha

just sayin, if the goal is to shoot ropes, a 250 dollar gun will do it better, easier, and cheaper then any automag.

I didn't bring up join date, I boroughs up the fact you are here. If you don't like automags then leave.this Automags.org. And I can make/get an automag that's shoots ropes, better, quicker and will shoot more for less than $250, so whatever $250 gun your talkin about I could get an automag that can outshoot and outperform it for less than $250.

Now back on topic like this thread was intended for,

Brassmag- you don't have to get slippery orings and such. Just get thishttp://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...fo&prodId=1865
And get around a SHP or a reg on your HPA tank with around a 1100psi output. Get a good force feed loader (Halos, Rotors, Qloaders, etc... Work) and get a good feel for the reactivity of the trigger. If you want it to be all the time then grind the pin down just a tiny bit at a time.

I didn't bring up join date, I boroughs up the fact you are here. If you don't like automags then leave.this Automags.org. And I can make/get an automag that's shoots ropes, better, quicker and will shoot more for less than $250, so whatever $250 gun your talkin about I could get an automag that can outshoot and outperform it for less than $250.
.

i love automags. i simply don't make ridiculous performance excuses for them.

and no you can't make an automag that shoots ropes better and faster, easier then a more modern 250 dollar gun, esp if you look on the used market.

I like responsive trigger. I like a heavy gun too. I have cockers I can finger **** all day, what I want is a RT machine gun.... but I want my mag with my .45 frame cuz thats how I like it. Along side a warp feed And an apex...

And what I want to know is whats the best adjustable inline reg that is sleeker than airamerica..

And brassmag I would probably get a slightly below 1000 psi input pressure if you want to get a solid 10-15 BPS but you don't want it all the time. If you can have a solid 900-950 psi (the more the better though) and still get a good RT effect, however it may be weaker or more difficult, but it all depends on the valve and how well you know the trigger, if you learn the trigger well and become accustomed to it, then you will be able to keep it sustained for a while, but not to long where it eats your whole hopper. Just see if you can find a decent adjustable reg and go to your local field that free or all day air, buy the air, and just learn the trigger. If its to hard then turn it up 25 or so psi and if its to fast then vice versa.

You must understand though we don't have an equation of X(PSI) divided by Y=Aprox. BPS, these are mechanical and can't be tuned or programmed to a specific BPS, it's left up to you. But try and follow what i posted above along with Zak Vetters stuff and you should get it.

As for the reg itself, I have no clue, although I do see good adjustable regs in the BST from time to time. Post in the WTB forum, you may have better luck their.

In all seriousness I have never seen a setup where someone used an adjustable inline reg to regulate BPS. The best way to control it is by practicing. Set it up so that it is capable of a higher rod than you need and just learn to control it. I personally found trigger stops to be helpful in controlling ROF.

If you still insist on an inline reg your best, and possibly only, option is going to be a Palmers. You will need something with a fast recharge rate and capable of 950+ psi output. There aren't a lot if options in that category.

An inline reg will add a third regulator to the air line. Each regulator reduces the air flow a bit. One of the requirements for a sustainable reactive trigger is air flow, so an additional regulator will reduce the ability to be reactive. Each regulator reduces the high volume usable air pressure by about 200psi. So, even if you have a 1100psi tank output, you will only have about 900psi of usable pressure which is only slightly higher than a regular non-adjustable tank.

The best way to help make your trigger controllable and reactive would be to purchase a 0.740" on-off pin which is 0.010" shorter than a standard 0.750" pin. Install the quad emag oring instead of the urethane oring for the small top on-off oring. This quad buna oring has less friction than the urethane oring but has a lower sealing point which is why you need the shorter on-off pin. If you want to adjust the amount of reactivity, add a shim or two between the on-off halves to simulate an even shorter pin.

A short gold bolt spring will reduce your chamber pressure used when shooting at the desired velocity. This will increase the pressure differential between the valve input and the chamber and enhance the reactive effect.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

An inline reg will add a third regulator to the air line. Each regulator reduces the air flow a bit. One of the requirements for a sustainable reactive trigger is air flow, so an additional regulator will reduce the ability to be reactive. Each regulator reduces the high volume usable air pressure by about 200psi. So, even if you have a 1100psi tank output, you will only have about 900psi of usable pressure which is only slightly higher than a regular non-adjustable tank.

The best way to help make your trigger controllable and reactive would be to purchase a 0.740" on-off pin which is 0.010" shorter than a standard 0.750" pin. Install the quad emag oring instead of the urethane oring for the small top on-off oring. This quad buna oring has less friction than the urethane oring but has a lower sealing point which is why you need the shorter on-off pin. If you want to adjust the amount of reactivity, add a shim or two between the on-off halves to simulate an even shorter pin.

A short gold bolt spring will reduce your chamber pressure used when shooting at the desired velocity. This will increase the pressure differential between the valve input and the chamber and enhance the reactive effect.

Thank you! That is the kind of information I can use.

I need do find that quad oring. Can I get one from someone on this forum?