Explosions of colour and the uniquely vivid Andean symbology woven into the architecture herald the rise of the socalled ‘chola bourgeoisie’ – the ‘new rich’ of El Alto and the north of La Paz, who have made their money in commerce, often informally. In addition to the spectacular architecture, El Alto also now boasts luxury hotels and some of the most expensive property in the country. Mobility between the two cities is also changing, as the ‘new rich’ seek property in the more salubrious areas of La Paz, such as La Zona Sur. The development of new urban transport networks – the cable car and Puma bus – have opened up new connections in the city that are changing culture and identity, and transforming social divisions that are centuries old. In this talk, Kate Maclean reports back on the first stage of her Leverhulme project on the changing cityscapes of El Alto and La Paz. She will look at particular examples of the dramatic changes to the urban and cultural landscape in the two cities, and discuss reasons for the rise of the ‘chola bourgeoisie’.