The land around Ponorogo -the pink one on the map- is harsh and fierce. Scratching a living from the soil here has always been a desperate business, and the people of the area have a reputation for being tough, both physically and mentally. The stories and myths of Java describe them as fierce fighters and skilled practitioners of magic, to be feared and respected. While most of the inhabitants of this arid land profess faith in Islam, echoes of much older beliefs still ring throughout the region.