They are constructed of a fiber reinforced composite more durable than any polymer lower available. Our product is made in the USA; features reinforced areas at the buffer tube and front pivot pin where other lesser lowers have failed. Also an integral over sized trigger guard. The fire control group area is dissimilar in color and is marked where drilling is required for easy completion. No Jig!

Their 80% polymer lowers are selling for $100 and are available in black or pink.

Founder and Dictator-In-Chief of TFB. A passionate gun owner, a shooting enthusiast and totally tacti-uncool. Favorite first date location: any gun range. Steve can be contacted here.

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gunslinger

so how does one finish them? it almost looks like there is a different colored plug? im guessing you remove the “non-colored” material?

answer

correct, you just remove the off color plug with a dremel or other cutting device.

Suburban

I’m sure a machinist could do that with a milling machine, but I don’t think that I could pull it off with a Dremel tool, without a jig. Well, maybe I could, but it would take forever and a year of very careful material removal, maybe a scrapped piece or two, and repeated test fitting.

I suppose if you enjoy sitting on the porch/deck/patio whittling, it might be an ideal product.

Freemanrebel

Gary Patterson

what is the benefit of this compared to the 7075 lower i bought from gunpartsplus.com and finished.

gunslinger

Man you must love that gunpartsplus place. You’ve been pimping them pretty strong the last few days. Or do you habe some other connection with them.

curt

Are these atf approved? The reason I ask, is because the atf usually considers a spot drilled or “dimpled” hole as a complete hole.There was a company several years ago that produced 1919 side plates with all of the holes spot drilled, and they were raided by the atf.The atf then looked at their sales records and searched homes and confiscated some complete guns from their owners.

Chris Cook

We have been in constant communication with the BATFE, Our process is completely new since it is a mold and not machined. We have though moved from a inverted guide to a exverted guide. It makes finishing even easier and we have no breach of the wall at all.

FourString

The angular cut of the trigger guard reminds me of a UMP for some reason… and now I suddenly have the design to find out how to stick a UMP stock on a buffer-less AR… >.>

dsoultery

I still think polymer80 is going to be better…I would rather be able to churn out lowers with a hand drill using single-use jigs than have to worry about a drill press etc. The real draw of polymer is the ease of completion…However, it’s great to see competition.

Cymond

Between this and Polymer 80, things are looking good. I’ll definitely buy one of them, but probably Polymer 80 because I’d prefer the extra precision of a jig. I’m not 100% confident I could drill the fire control pin holes perfectly straight, even with a drill press.

wconnerw

If they ever come out that is they should change their name from polymer80 to 2 more weeks.

freemanrebel

This guy used a dremel and a hand drill just fine.

Toni

So…is whittling, drilling, milling, or “dremeling” the only way to get the plug out? Is it molded in place or put in after? Could say, a few hard yanks with pliers or other pullers get it out?

Cliff Charpentier

They out eights barriers on the side wall where the white molding it held in place. If you know exactly where they are and drill those first then it is a possibility althought pulling off some of the white after almost done drilling was quite hard. Couldn’t imagine the king of force needed to pull with breaking the hole thing. The dremil is fast. Longests part for me was waiting for the batteries to recharge

Vincent Vendetti

Just got mine in the mail. They sell for $65.00 now. There are protruding nubs for where the holes in the FTG are to be drilled. Also, the white “plug” can in no way just be pulled out with pliers etc. There are youtube vids on how to dremel and drill these lowers out in your garage. No mill needed. Get you a #1 center-drill to pilot drill the FTG “nubs” before you start to step drill it up to final size. If you have access to reamers (or just spend the money on one) finish the holes up with that. Don’t take it up to final diameter with a drill-bit. Much better fit in the end.

Mitch Rapp

Here’s a good question. A father and son collaborate and BOTH do work on the machining of an 80% lower. Are they then both owner/builders of the same lower?

Mitch Rapp

Or should the two both say “I built it” when asked, and be telling the truth?