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2 of the best hob filters still wouldn't be good enough for a 100 gallon tank you should really look into buying a canister filter for atleast a 250 gallon tank and then use your biggest hob filter for biological filtration and water movement

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First of all hang on filters would not do a sufficient job of correctly maintaining a tank that size, plus to have two would not be cost effective . A 100 gallon tank is pretty large. In my opinion its always best to get a filter slightly larger than you need exactly. For instance if you have a 100 gallon aquarium go for a filter that's rated for 150 gallons. The xp-4 by Rena, the c-530 by Marineland or if money is not an issue and you want really top quality go for an Eheim 2076 or 2078. Rena and Marineland are ok but Eheim is to filtration like the BMW M-5 is to sports cars.Good Luck and do plenty of research before your purchase.

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yes you can. i use to think like you. hang on filters on all of my tanks (i have 8 tanks, 6 fresh and 2 reef, my largest is 180 gal and my smallest is a 55) but i have come around to canister filters. so should you on a 100 gal beauty. my current favorite for canister is Rena Filstar filters. once you get a good sized tank like a 100 gal you might as well just go with canister. here are my reason: Longer life, most are very quiet, easy to clean, cheaper to maintain (i buy bulk blue bonded filter pad, bulk carbon/ammonia remover and it still cost me alot less then buying filter specific carbon pads), more customizable as most canisters have many extra spaces for more filter media of any kind, longer filter pad and carbon life because the larger area of filtration and better filtration because of the multiple pore sized sponges and pads (trapping large particles and waste first then smaller and smaller and smaller to catch the very smallest waste before it goes back into the tank.) I have been keeping fish for 17 years now and have used many of the filters that are out there so i can say that for anything over a 55 gal tank it should be a canister. for anything over 200 gal go sump. I hope this helps!I love fishies! V

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Thank you for your answers. I have 1 emperor 400 and 1 emperor 280. They seem to be doing the job as my tank is crystal clear. The tubing goes to about 2 in above the bottom of the tank and the tubing also has a valve in the middle of it for mid section filtering. My tank is 24 in deep so the middle valve is a helpful thing. My husband had to cut out some of the top of the tank for the filters to fit properly and all is well. My tank is acrylic so he was able to do the cutting with a jigsaw. Just incase anyone is wondering... I love my fish and my tank lol.

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There are a few things to consider first how deep is your tank? The reason is filtration works best if the water is removed from the lower portion ( Where most of the bad stuff settles) then returned at the top, so if the hangon on filter/s is not capable of drawing the water up from close to the bottom you have lost half of the battle. The price difference should not much between the two filters. Spend a couple of more dollars and buy the two 80 gl filters or consider something else like a canister or wet / dry.

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Definitely. You can use whatever kind of filtration that you want. If you can fit the filters on the tank than you can do it. I recommend Aquaclear filters. Best HOB's available today. Make sure you place these filters on both sides of the tank to create more flow around the whole tank.

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No, this might work but although I don't know what filters you are considering but a 80 and a 30 gallon filter are only equal to a 90 because they aren't linked together they don't proccess enough water to do the job. I would recommend the Emperor 400 and a canister filter rated at atleast 150 gallons because the emperor 400 would give good biological filtration plus aeration and the large canister would give excellent mechanical/chemical filtration plus supplementary biological and help to circulate your tank.To summarize my answer an 80 and 30 gallon filter are not suitable because you need a filter rated for your tank size and then you can you use another filter to supplement the main one.

4 years ago

by

Anonymous

Jacksonville,FL

+2points

2out of2found this answer helpful.

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Answers

I think that undergravel filters are terrible but that is my opinion. They shoot gunk under the gravel. That is it. You cannot clean this out unless you completely tank out all of the substrate. This makes the tank more dirty in the long run. The only plus I see to these filters is that it does not allow the substrate to sit and go bad on the bottom of the glass. It moves water under to prevent anaerobic gravel. This is still a waste of money IMO.

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To simply put this undergravel filters are considered primitive and obselete because they are very hard to maintain and require a complete tank overhaul yearly or sooner if nitrates become a problem.The biggest problem with ugf is that you have to have a large gravel bed and you can't have decorations in your tank cause they will block off sections of your gravel.The other major problem(the reason I don't use them) is that cetain fish will significantly reduce the effectiveness of a ugf theses fish are goldfish,cichlids,catfish,and loaches because they are all accomplished diggers/burrowers.

4 years ago

by

Anonymous

Jacksonville,FL

-5points

11out of27found this answer helpful.

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I haven't used undergravel in decades. I never saw the value in them once more reliable and efficient filters were brought to market AND they are miserable to clean if you ever decide to! I didn't even know anyone still made these things.

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I don't use substrate of any kind. My tanks are all Bare bottom. Gravel holds to many "nasties"......fish waste, uneaten food, bacteria, etc.........I keep Discus only.

4 years, 1 month ago

by

Anonymous

Colorado

-9points

2out of13found this answer helpful.

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I stop using under gravel filters when I got into planted tanks, I'd rather have the nutrients be caught in my substrate for the plants to use. However, from various sites I have studied there is still a large amount of people who swear by them as a great tool for filtration. IMHO it can only help you, but make sure you have some heavy poweheads hooked up to it so you get enough GPH for your fish

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Unless you keep up with regular gravel syphoning maintenance, undergravel filter really acts as a dirt trap and can potentially hike your nitrate to deadly level. Basically your are not providing the waste an outlet, instead, the waste just builds up in the bottom of the tank, and becomes invisible until a fish or someone stirs up the gravel. Furthermore, an undergravel filter is difficult to maintain if and when the owner wishes to "landscape" the aquarium. Therefore unless you are an owner of a whole wall of fish tanks (such as the case in most aquarium stores), undergravel filters are not necessary the most economical solution to your tanks' health. And it is definitely not the more beneficial compared to canister or external/hang on filters.

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I need Help with my pond! I change my water & filters alot, i have lots of plants in it, but the water turns green every 2 days, and it's not the sun. Can someone PLEASE tell me what i can use to make it stop. I've tryed phospure & barley with no help.!!

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Answers

Answer:

You never want to introduce metal into a pond or aquarium. Once the metal is in the water, it strays there and some is harmful to fish and plant life. What you need is ultra violet sterilization and it is amazing what it does. It kills all bad bacteria, all algae and the water will soon clear up. Whaa-La healthy happy fish! now just provide a litlle plant life so they won't get sunburn

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Hi Tish. It has been my experience that when water turns green it most likely is algie that is doing it. Algie need's sunlight to grow. Unless your pond is in your basement, I would think that sunlight is the likely cause of the green water. Not knowing exactly what your setup is for or what it is used for I would think that a swimming pool supply business has something that will stop your green water problem and prevent it from returning.

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Look into the biggest possible UV sterilizer you can find. Also, find a way to shade the pond. The sun is indeed promoting the algae growth. The plants in the pond can not compete with the algae for nutrients as there are too many in the water.

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Believe it or not but the sun has a lot to do with it. Algae thrives in direct sun light. If phospure is not helping you then try a uv sterilizer and API algae remover. That in all circumstances will probably clear up your green water. Also depending on how much nitrate is in your water also might be the culprit. Do regular phosphate and nitrate water tests. Good Luck with your pond

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Answers

Well I have to disagree with everyone here, you can have too much filter for the size of your tank. If you have too much current some fish will get worn out fighting the current all the time. Too much filter can blow your food around too much and make your fish have to chase it everywhere and they can pick up the food before the fish can eat it. A back filter with biowheels are good and so is a canister filter. Even an undergravel filter is fine if you vaccume your gravel monthly. They get bad press by some because they say they trap debris under the filter plate...all you have to do is siphon through the lift tube once in a while to remove this.

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canister filter! rena filstar xp2 would probably do just right. im a big fan of rena because there easy to use, easy to maintain, very quiet. other brands are good though, F&S doesnt carry junk. so check out the rena filstar filters to get an idea but feel free to brouse and make your own choice. the xp1 has enough filtration for your tank with 250 gph but my montra is over filter for happy fishies! fish are fun! V

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I would recommend a filter that filters at least 50 gal tank, you can never have too much filtration for freshwater. Too much oxygen, YES!! I would also recommend one that comes with a Bio-Wheel. Good bacteria is "housed" in Bio-Wheel once it is established of course.

3 years, 10 months ago

by

JBear

0points

1out of2found this answer helpful.

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I recently upgraded to a Marineland C-360 canister filter, but I started out with a Marineland Emperor 280. Both are excellent filters and maintenence is a breeze. I prefer to have the entire volume of my aquarium cycle at least 5 times per hour. In the case of a 45 gallon aquarium 280gph / 45gal = 6.2 or 360gph / 45gal = 8. When it comes to filtration, there really is no such thing as over-doing it.

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I would like to know the best filtration system for a fowlr tank either wet/dry sump or a canister style filter? Also taking into consideration maintenace is either filter easier or require less maintenance?Would a protein skimmer also be needed with just fowlr tank or is that more of a reef requirement?

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Answers

Also to add: DO NOT EVER use a UV sterilizer on a reef aquarium or even a FOWLR tank. This piece of equipment will kill phyto plankton and other microscopic animals which develop eventually in a reef or FOWLR tank, or can be added, and are essential in the food chain and feed various corals and filter feeding invertabrates such as starfish and feather duster worms and clams. Although they are ok for freshwater setups, UV sterilizers are useless for marine aquaria and a waste of money unlike a protein skimmer which is very necessary. UV units do not clarify water, they only kill free floating parasites in water. They perform no other function than that. In smaller marine fish only tanks it is possible to get away without using a skimmer, any reef or FOWLR no matter what size will need one. Anyone who says a protein skimmer is unnecessary for most marine aquariums is giving bad advice.

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I set up a 55 FOWLR about 9 months ago that I'm slowly changing over to reef. The best medium for filtration in a marine aquarium is live rock. With any marine aquarium be it fish only, FOWLR, or reef, a protein skimmer is a must. I use a Marineland C220 canister for chemical and mechanical filtration and removed the biological media.I also use a strong HOB protein skimmer and two Hydor circulation pumps for water movement. When using live rock as your biological filter, do not use a wet-dry filter, especially one with bio-balls which will clog with debris over time and the filter will become a huge nitrate factory. A very low nitrate level is a must in a reef aquarium and highly desirable in a FOWLR tank. A wet dry filter will also compete with your live rock for ammonia and nitrite reduction, not a good thing. Wet/dry filters are great for freshwater setups and marine fish only aquariums, they have no useful purpose for FOWLR and reef tanks. Canisters or large HOB filters are both good, although I favor canisters because of their very large capactiy. Just be sure and remove any bio media from them and only use them for chemical and mechanical filtration. Either a good and large canister or HOB filter, as much live rock as you can afford and a good skimmer will get you well on your way to a succesful FOWLR tank.

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I have been keeping tanks both fresh water and reef tanks for several years. I have had several types of filters and what I like best is a combo filter / uv sterlizer. No matter what filter you do decide on by all means get a uv sterlizer it does wonders for water quality, and clarity. That translates to healthier marine life. Forget the skimmer at this point but when you decide to add corals then consider a small skimmer. One other thing about uv sterlizers the slower you move the water past the light the more contact time the better they work. Hope that helps and I did not confuse you.

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A canister filter is my favorite for sure. A lot less work than a wet and dry filter or a sump. I would say a sump is awesome and will help out a ton but is not necessary. The cannister filter will take huge amount of maintenance time away compared to a sump or wet/dry.

Protein skimmers are not needed. They serve us the extra filtration. They definitely do help and will make your water much cleaner but they are not necessary. They would definitely help a lot more in a reef set up.

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