01/10/2010

Chianti as Volnay- Wine Expo Speaks Out

This following worlds, and all of the following, was a cut and paste from Santa Monica's Wine Expo mailer.... I guess my book is still relevant.
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Fighting Globalization in your Glass
'Once you guys succeed in making all wine taste the same, what will you do for a living?' That is the question we have been asking wholesale reps lately as we have been absolutely barraged by the forces of evil (well, severely misguided, focus group driven winemaking and marketing at least):
One importer proudly presented us with a Parker Beatification Certificate pronouncing that one of his Chiantis 'could easily pass for a fine Premier Cru Volnay' (a particularly soft, velvety and UN-CHIANTI-like Burgundy) which we thought was like telling Vince Lombardi that his star linebacker would make a dandy ballerina. Then, adding insult to injury, another supplier came in with two samples alleged to be Cahors (a Southern French red made from Malbec and Tannat that has been famous since Chaucer's time for being BLACK, tarry, brambly and aggressive, just the thing to go with the local diet of confit of duck, fois gras, lamb cassoulet and such) that have been polluted with enough Merlot (?!?!) and a 'huge investment in an ultra modern winery' to make them taste like Wild Vines Blackberry Merlot (which you can buy for $5.99 at CVS Drugs if you really need some).
It seems the consensus amongst the 'gatekeepers' is that Americans want wines from all over the world with fanciful names and long histories as long as they all taste the same and don't have any disconcerting 'ethnic' character. So, do we just give up and roll over? NO!!!!!!'
We continue to champion wines with true personality, regional style (or even outright idiosyncrasies) and a distinctive point of view while reminding those in the supply chain that those wines are huge crowd favorites at OUR 'focus groups' where we offer true diversity instead of merely different brands of the same old things. --Wine Expo
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It is so difficult for me to imagine the thinking of a sales pitch that positions a chianti as a burgundy.
Yes, I could see saying; this chianti has an almost Volnay 1er Cru quality, a little rustic a lot velvet---something like that, but as a ringer? There is a question that brings us back to the philosophic question of wherefor terroir, does it matter, should it matter. You know the question; if you could have (pick your vintage) of DRC (pick your vineyard) and push a button and have it come out each time with the exact amount of evolution you wanted every time, all the time? With the exact profile you expect.
Would you do it?

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I'm hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world. I want them natural and most of all, I want them to speak the truth even if we argue. With this messiah thing going on, I'm trying to swell the ranks of those who crave the differences in each vintage, celebrate nuance and desire wines that make them think, laugh, and feel. Welcome.

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