Welcome to Concierge—The Insiders Guide to Wine Country,
the premier in-room visitors guide for Napa and Sonoma. Our
goal is to help you enjoy one of the world’s most exciting destinations—from wine tasting and fine dining to hot air ballooning and shopping.
Napa and Sonoma counties have long been recognized as
world-class wine-producing locales. The region is equally rich
in food, arts, and recreation. Our comprehensive guide will
help you navigate the best that Wine Country has to offer.
As publishers of Napa Sonoma magazine, a distinguished
Wine Country luxury publication, and Diablo, the monthly
lifestyle magazine of San Francisco’s East Bay, we are experienced tour guides to the best of Northern California. Through
the voices of our experts as well as some beloved locals, we’ve
captured the essence of the Wine Country lifestyle.
So, read on: We promise to make sure your journey is nothing short of magical.

the agrarian rhythms of the farms that
canvass the landscape. The Mayacamas
Range, which runs roughly north from
the edge of San Francisco Bay, divides
Napa and Sonoma counties. Napa
Valley, situated on the eastern side,
which comprises most of Napa County,
stretches north to Mount St. Helena.
Sonoma County spreads west, over hills
that lead to rocky cliffs pounded by the
Pacific Ocean, and north, past the Russian River and into the redwood forests.
Separated by mountains, the two counties are deeply intertwined, united in a
history that revolves around the grape.

THE ROOTS OF WINE COUNTRY

Napa County may have been the first to
garner international recognition for its
wines, but Wine Country’s first wines
came from Sonoma County. In the
1820s, Franciscan monks planted vines
at Mission San Francisco Solano (which
stands today in the heart of the town of
Sonoma), the last in the chain of missions established by the Spanish to “civilize” California’s indigenous peoples.
The missionaries’ holy wine set the stage
for all that followed.
The Franciscans sent some of their
vines over the Mayacamas Mountains

C O U R T E S Y O F V I S I T N A PA VA L L E Y

T

he best wines are grown in
lovely places: the slate slopes of
Germany’s Mosel; the tawny,
sun-warmed hills of Tuscany; the hardscrabble terraces of Portugal’s upper Douro; the lush length of France’s castle-lined
Loire; and, of course, the rolling hills and
verdant vales of California’s Napa and Sonoma counties. Welcome to Wine Country, a region defined by the land and the
glorious bounty it produces.
Though a mere hour’s drive from
the bustling cities of San Francisco
and Oakland, Wine Country is a
world apart. The pace of life is set by

MO M E N T S I N
W INE C OU N T RY
HIST ORY
1823
THE MISSION

Spanish Franciscan monks found the
Mission San Francisco Solano, the last
of the California missions, in the town
of Sonoma.

1836
NAPA’S FIRST SETTLER

Frontiersman George Yount founds the
first homestead in Napa County, near
what is now Yountville.

1846
BEAR FLAG REVOLT

Settlers in Sonoma rise up against
Mexican rule. Mexican General Mariano
Vallejo surrenders without resistance,
and the settlers declare the Republic of
California. A homemade flag featuring
a star and a bear is raised in the town
of Sonoma. Within a month, the United
States annexes Northern California.

1857
WINE TAKES ROOT

B E A R F L A G S TAT U E : F R A N K S C H U L E N B U R G

Agoston Haraszthy founds Buena Vista
Winery, Wine Country’s first commercial winery, in the town of Sonoma.
Haraszthy would later bring the first
European grapes to the region.

with George Yount, a frontiersman
who spent time at the mission before
moving to Napa County, where he established the county’s first homestead.
He planted his first vineyard in 1836.
Wine took root toward becoming an
industry in 1857, when an adventurous Hungarian rapscallion named
Agoston Haraszthy opened Buena
Vista Winery, Wine Country’s first
commercial winery, in Sonoma Valley. German immigrant Charles Krug
worked for Yount before starting
Napa County’s first commercial winery in 1861, in St. Helena.

The early settlers did not live on
wine alone. They grew wheat, potatoes,
and fruit, raised livestock, and cut timber. Gold seekers wintered in the region,
lawlessly fueling the local economy. But
the region’s foggy mornings, cool and
wet winters, and uninterrupted summer
sunshine were ideal for growing grapes,
and winemaking quickly became the
most profitable enterprise. Robert Louis
Stevenson, who visited winemaker Jacob Schram’s vineyard in the hills of
Calistoga in 1880, wrote in The Silverado Squatters that his wines were “bottled
poetry” and that “the stirring sunlight,

1859
A SPA IS BORN

Sam Brannan purchases land at Indian
Springs and founds the spa resort town
of Calistoga.

1861
NAPA STARTS WINING

German settler Charles Krug founds
Napa County’s first commercial winery,
in St. Helena.

Concierge

7

MO M E N T S I N
W INE C OU N T RY
HIST ORY
1871
THE FIRST CRISIS

The root louse Phylloxera threatens to destroy the wine industry.
Farmers fight back by using hardier
rootstocks.

1905
A WRITER AT WORK

Author Jack London, already famous
for such works as The Call of the Wild
and The Sea Wolf, establishes his
Beauty Ranch in Glen Ellen.

1920
AMERICA GOES DRY
Lucy Restaurant and Bar, Yountville

COURTESY OF YOUNTVILLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

upping the demand for locally grown
fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, and
dairy products. Agricultural land that’s
not used for grapes is used to grow organic produce or feed free-range livestock.
The interdisciplinary nature of wine
growing has enhanced the cultural vitality of the region. The industry relies on
science, intuition, aesthetic sense as well
as business sense—and a dash of luck.
The result is a creative, open-minded
community. Wineries host musical and
theatrical performances, and many are

home to art galleries. Likewise, countless
artists have found inspiration in the land.
Recreationists enjoy a natural playground in the varied landscape. Parks
and open spaces stretch from inland valleys across mountains and through forests
to the Pacific’s coastal bluffs. The region’s
natural mineral springs have inspired
spas that rival Europe’s finest.
The region is also an ethnic melting
pot. Descendants of Italian, German,
French, and Spanish settlers still tend the
land; Latino immigrants are a growing
presence in both counties; and visitors
from around the world give the region a
cosmopolitan sensibility rarely found in
such a rural setting.
Despite Wine Country’s emergence
as a travel destination—some 12 million
visitors arrive each year—it hasn’t lost its
charm. It is still a land of small towns,
quirky characters, and hidden treasures.
You can’t help but become enchanted by
the magic of the vine.

The passage of the Volstead Act
establishes Prohibition. Commercial
wineries suffer, but grape growers
survive by selling to home winemakers
around the country.

1933
A NATION CELEBRATES

Prohibition is repealed, but the damage
to the California wine industry is slow
to heal.

1966
THE RENAISSANCE

Robert Mondavi opens his estate winery,
spurring the resurgence of commercial
winemaking in Wine Country.

1976
FRENCH TOAST

California wines gain international fame
when two of them win the top prize in a
French wine competition.

Today
WINE FOR THE WORLD

Napa and Sonoma counties are home
to more than 500 wineries. World-class
wines, delicious food, beautiful scenery,
and vibrant culture attract millions of
visitors from around the world.

credited with naming the town in a
drunken moment, “It’ll be the Calistoga
of Sarafornia!” Brannan is also rumored
to have been the first person to concoct
the celebrated mud baths—a mixture
of volcanic ash and hot springs water—
which are now ubiquitous around town.

Sebastiani Theatre, Sonoma Plaza

1852. By 1860, settlers had discovered that
the soil was ideal for grape growing, and
Dr. George Beldon Crane and Charles
Krug built the first commercial winery
here in 1861. Krug is still among Napa
Valley’s wine industry heavy hitters, a
prestigious list that includes Beringer,
Louis M. Martini, Joseph Phelps, Heitz
Wine Cellar, and Whitehall Lane.
Shoppers will delight in St. Helena’s
quaint Main Street, lined with historic
brick buildings and gingerbread Victorian boutiques that offer everything
from French linens and Italian ceramics
to gourmet chocolates and olive oil.

Millions of years ago, volcanic eruptions
covered the area with rich ash and created deep geysers; the Old Faithful Geyser
of California on Tubbs Lane still erupts
every 30 minutes and is a great place to
learn about geothermal history.
The town was founded by the enterprising Sam Brannan, California’s first
Gold Rush millionaire, who built a lavish
resort here in 1860. Brannan envisioned
Calistoga as California’s answer to Saratoga Springs, New York, and is famously

CALISTOGA

Though it’s a stone’s throw from St. Helena, Calistoga feels more like a throwback to the old west. Wooden storefronts
and cottage shops still boast horsehitching posts, and a handful of saloons
keep the old-timey spirit alive. Roiling
beneath the surface, however, are the
famous bubbling Calistoga waters that
make this the epicenter of spa country.
12

The Insiders Guide to Wine Countr y

Just over the Mayacamas Mountains,
Sonoma lies nestled in the verdant Valley
of the Moon. Don’t let its bohemian character fool you: Wine Country’s first wines
came from Sonoma County, and its Zinfandels and Russian River Pinot Noirs
are rated among the best in the world.
Petaluma, a riverfront city characterized by perfectly preserved Victorian
homes, antiques shops, and homespun
restaurants, lies just west of the town of
Sonoma, where Spanish and Mexican
influence predominate. Mission San
Francisco Solano, the final and northernmost outpost along the California mission trail, was built in 1823 by
Franciscan monks, but grew into a
Mexican-style pueblo under the governance of General Mariano Vallejo.
Today, historic Sonoma Plaza is still surrounded by tiled adobes and restored
period hotels, as well as tidy shops,
restaurants, and wine-tasting facilities.
The Mission and most of the historic
buildings are open to visitors for touring.
To get the full flavor of Sonoma,
stop in for breakfast or lunch at The
Fremont Diner for gourmet comfort
fare. Then head east to Buena Vista,
California’s oldest premium winery,
founded in 1857 by Count Agoston Haraszthy, who planted the first zinfandel
grapes in California.
GLEN ELLEN

Indian Springs, Calistoga

Just north of Sonoma on Highway 12,
Glen Ellen is a bucolic little bend in the
road worth a detour. Author Jack London

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN
1275 McKinstry St., Napa
(800) 427-4124, (707) 253-2111,
winetrain.com
Enjoy lunch or dinner and wine tasting aboard
a train, as you journey through magnificent
countryside and vineyards from Napa to St.
Helena. See website for current schedule.

OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER OF CALIFORNIA
1299 Tubbs Ln., Calistoga
(707) 942-6463, oldfaithfulgeyser.com
One of three geysers in the world nicknamed
Old Faithful, this one throws thousands of
gallons of water some 60–100 feet into the air
about every 30 minutes. Winter: 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Summer: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

GOODMAN LIBRARY BUILDING
1219 1st St., Napa
(707) 224-1739, napahistory.org
This library, one of the oldest in the state, is
home to the Napa County Historical Society and
Napa County Landmarks. Research Tues.–Sat.
noon–4 p.m

JACK LONDON STATE HISTORIC PARK
2400 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen
(707) 938-5216, jacklondonpark.com
The park includes the ruins of Wolf House as well
as the cottage where Jack London wrote many of
his works. Summer: open daily; winter: Thurs.–
Mon. Park entry: 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Museum: 10
a.m.–5 p.m. Cottage and dining room: 12–4 p.m.

LITTO’S HUBCAP RANCH
6654 Pope Valley Rd., Pope Valley
Drive by this remarkable folk art creation, a
California State Historic Landmark, which
Emanuele “Litto” Damonte built by using bottles, pulltops, and more than 2,000 hubcaps.

SAINT TERESA OF AVILA MISSION/POTTER
SCHOOLHOUSE
(Sonoma Coast Visitors Center)
17210 Bodega Hwy., Bodega
(707) 874-3812
The 1860 church has been used continuously
for more than a century. The 1873 schoolhouse,
today a private residence, is the last standing
landmark from Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds.

MILITARY ANTIQUES AND MUSEUM
300 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma
(707) 763-2220, militaryantiquesmuseum.com
This museum has an extensive collection of military paraphernalia from a number of conflicts.
Thurs.–Sun. 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.

KEVIN McNEELY
As the director of the Sonoma International Film
Festival, Kevin McNeely knows a thing or two about
Wine Country’s greatest movie houses. Here are his
favorite places to catch a flick.
Cameo Cinema
“One of the great art houses that screens indie films.
Conveniently located next to the best restaurants and
shops in St. Helena.” 1340 Main St., St. Helena, (707)

963-9779, cameocinema.com.
Century Napa Valley
“From wine to lattes to 3D IMAX, you get it all in this
spectacular multiplex theater.” 195 Gasser Dr., Napa,
(707) 251-3780, cinemark.com.

1311 Washington St., Calistoga
(707) 942-5911, sharpsteen-museum.org
This lavishly restored cottage, built to mimic
vacation cottages in Saratoga, New York.
Exhibits and artifacts present the history of
northern Napa Valley from prehistoric times to
post–World War I. Daily 11 a.m.–4 p.m.

Sebastiani Theatre
“Built in 1933 as a movie house, it still shows the best
in indie films, as well as musical and dramatic acts,
year-round.” 476 First St. E., Sonoma, (707) 996-9756,

(707) 738-2920, luckypennynapa.com
This troupe performs plays and singalongs at
the Napa Valley Playhouse and elsewhere.

261 S. Main St., Sebastopol
(707) 829-6711, wschsgrf.org
Located in the restored 1917 electric railway
depot, the museum offers exhibits on the history
of western Sonoma County. Thurs.–Sun. 1–4 p.m.

Performing Arts/
Nightlife
CHAMBER MUSIC IN NAPA VALLEY
(707) 226-2190, chambermusicnapa.org
These internationally known musicians hold
around 10 performances a year at the First
United Methodist Church.

MUSIC IN THE VINEYARDS
1020 Clinton St., Ste. 201, Napa
(707) 258-5559, musicinthevineyards.org
This chamber music festival is held each
August in various venues, with wine tasting
during intermission.

ANNE SIEGEL AND
NICOLE HUGHES
Napa Valley residents Anne Siegel and Nicole Hughes
are the founders of Olive and Poppy, a jewelry line
sold in several local stores (oliveandpoppy.com).
Here are a few shops they can’t resist popping into.
Tallulah
“A lovely curation of fun, funky accessories from local
artists and vintage finds to colorful nail polishes
and whimsical tabletop decor.” 331 Healdsburg Ave.,

Healdsburg, (707) 473-9277, mytallulah.com.
Market at The Carneros Inn
“A place to grab coﬀee and shop an assortment of
accessories, jewelry, and soaps.” 4048 Sonoma Hwy.,
Napa, (707) 299-4900, thecarnerosinn.com.
G’s General Store
“Bright, colorful objects and accessories for every room
of your home. The perfect place to duck into for a unique
and ‘never-knew-you-had-to-have-it’ item.” 19 W. Napa

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS will find no shortage of
adventure in Wine Country. Those with lofty aspirations can enjoy
biplane rides and hot-air ballooning (Napa Valley has the busiest balloon corridor in the world). Perhaps your feet prefer terra firma? Hikers can take their pick of terrain, from spectacular coastal bluﬀs and
beaches to majestic redwood forests and the 4,339-foot Mount St.
Helena, from whose peak you can see San Francisco, the Sierra Nevada range, Mount Shasta, and even the Pacific Ocean. Rock climbers
will find cliﬀs aplenty on the coast, where they can cool their heels
with salt spray. Narrow country lanes that wind through enchanting,
vine-studded hills oﬀer cyclists scenic rides. Equestrians can saddle
up in several state and regional parks and recreation areas. Water
lovers opt for canoes and kayaks on the Russian River or spend a day
boating or paddling on Lake Sonoma and Lake Berryessa, investigating tidepools at a marine reserve, diving for abalone along the Sonoma coast, or fishing oﬀ Bodega Bay. Recreational opportunities in
Napa and Sonoma counties are virtually inexhaustible. Dive in!
34

Parks and
Waterways
(Due to cutbacks in California’s budget, make
sure to call all state parks before visiting.)

ANNADEL STATE PARK
6201 Channel Dr., Santa Rosa
(707) 539-3911, parks.ca.gov
This 5,092-acre park has more than 40 miles of
trails for hikers, bikers, equestrians, and joggers.
Lake Ilsanjo is popular with anglers. Daily 8
a.m.–sunset.

MATT VILLANO
Matt Villano is a Wine Country journalist who
specializes in travel, adventure, and more. Here are
his favorite places to get some fresh air.
Bodega Head, Sonoma Coast State Park
“If you climb up the northern rise with some binoculars,
you can see grey whale spouts for miles in the spring.
Loop hikes on the southern rise are pretty spectacular,
too; on a clear day you can see down to Point Reyes and
beyond.” parks.ca.gov.
Summit of Mount St. Helena, Robert Louis
Stevenson State Park
“You’re not a true Wine Country resident until you’ve
hiked the grueling six miles to the top of Mount St.
Helena and looked down on the Napa Valley as the fog
burns oﬀ. From up there, the hilltops look like green
islands floating in a sea of grey.” parks.ca.gov.
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve
“This park, just outside of Guerneville, is the closest
concentration of coast redwoods to my home in
Healdsburg. It’s a great place to go and get lost among
the giants. It’s also a lot less crowded than Muir Woods.”

parks.ca.gov.
Spring Lake Regional Park, Santa Rosa
“This private lake on the west side of Annadel State Park
is small and beautiful, with amazing, shady hiking trails.
It also boasts an eco-quest—a sort of scavenger hunt you
can go on in the woods.” parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
Russian River

Just 55 miles north of the Golden Gate, the Charles M. Schulz - Sonoma County Airport (STS) offers ground
transportation, affordable parking, shorter lines, the Sky Lounge Steakhouse & Sushi Bar, and a hassle-free
experience. Get to your business or leisure destination faster when you fly STS - the smart choice for air travel!

WHEN SAM BRANNAN SET OUT IN 1846 TO LEAD A MORMON
settlement expedition to the West, no one could have predicted
he’d become the father of California spas. At the time, few people
other than the native Wappo Indians were paying heed to Northern California’s bubbling brew of sulfurous hot springs and gushing
geysers. Brannan, however, knew the moneymaking power of New
York’s Saratoga Springs and saw an opportunity. He began snatching
up acreage at the northern end of the Napa Valley, and supposedly
announced, in a tongue-tied drunken moment, that he would build
“the Calistoga of Sarafornia!” Thus—at least according to lore—was
the great spa town named. Today, Calistoga’s spas and resorts offer everything from locally ubiquitous mud and mineral water baths
to exotic treatments such as olive and rosemary scrubs and caviar
facials. And Calistoga is just one slice of Wine Country spa heaven:
You’ll find all manner of destinations in Napa and Sonoma counties
guaranteed to leave you feeling relaxed and pampered.
40

HEATHER VUCHINICH
Heather Vuchinich is a beauty and wellness writer
who has worked in high-end spas and pens articles
for top magazines. Here are her favorite places to get
pampered in Wine Country.
The Spa at Meadowood
“Privacy and elegant comfort in one of the most
beautiful natural settings in Napa. The newly renovated
spa and award-winning culinary oﬀerings elevate
Meadowood to the five-star level.” 900 Meadowood Ln.,

St. Helena, (707) 531-4788, meadowood.com.
Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Sonoma Mission
Inn and Spa
“Oﬀering the only natural mineral springs in the
Sonoma area, the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn
is known for its beautifully designed spa, creative
treatment menu, and impeccable service.” 100 Boyes

Blvd., Sonoma, (707) 938-9000, fairmont.com/sonoma.
The Garden Spa at MacArthur Place
“Old world charm meets modern convenience at this
historic property. This spa has some of the most skilled
massage therapists in the area.” 29 E. MacArthur St.,

Sonoma, (707) 933-3193, macarthurplace.com.
Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary
“This unique oasis pioneered the concept of the ‘Green
Spa.’ This commitment to the environment is reflected
in its beautifully designed property and thoughtful
treatment menu.” 209 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone, (707)

CAREY SWEET
Carey Sweet is a Northern California-based journalist
who specializes in food, travel, and adventure. Here
are a few places she likes to grab a bite.
Tiny-Thai
“It’s indeed tiny, with just a dozen seats. But it’s magical,
beautifully presented food from true Thai chefs.” 8238
Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati, (707) 794-9404.
Alioto’s Healdsburger
“Groovy picnic tables set the mood for a kickback
picnic in an old-school former A&W drive-in, and
what’s probably the best burger in Sonoma County.”

FARMERS MARKETS
Wine Country is known for its variety of agricultural
products, and farmers markets are the perfect place for
the public to access this delicious food. Many towns
hold markets weekly during the summer months; some
have markets year-round. Call for more information.
CALISTOGA

Healdsburg, (707) 433-5282, scopahealdsburg.com.
Dry Creek Kitchen
“Chef’s secret: Stop by a local Sonoma County winery
before you go: DCK has a no corkage policy for Sonoma
County wines.” 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (707)

431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com.

CHRIS HARDY

ST. HELENA BISTRO

E P I C U R E A N A DV E N T U R E S
EAT, DRINK, AND COOK YOUR WAY THROUGH WINE COUNTRY
If you are passionate about food, Wine Country is the ultimate vacation destination. These
organizations can help you cook up the ideal culinary adventure. You can eat fabulous
meals, meet renowned winemakers, walk through fields of organic fruits and vegetables, and
sharpen your cooking skills. You will return to your kitchen inspired. Be forewarned, however:
Once you’ve tasted the good life, there’s no going back!
CAKEBREAD CELLARS

NAPASTYLE CULINARY PROGRAM

RELISH CULINARY ADVENTURES

2555 Main St., St. Helena
(707) 967-1100, ciachef.edu/california
The CIA offers professional training in the food,
wine, and hospitality fields, and courses and
lectures for the amateur chef.

RUSTIC
300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville
(707) 857-1485, franciscoppolawinery.com
A menu featuring some of the favorite recipes
that Francis Ford Coppola has collected over
a lifetime of travel, filmmaking, and family
gatherings. $$$–$$$$

TOURING WINERIES SHOULD BE A SENSORY EXPERIENCE, not
an intellectual one. However fascinating the technology of winemaking—from the gleaming finish of the stainless steel tanks to the
hulking oak barrels lining the cool walls of the cellar—wine tasting
is the best, most fun, and most efficient way to understand wine. The
wine-tasting room offers a relaxed, cordial setting in which to investigate intriguing blends, challenge and expand your palate, and find out
what you like and don’t like. Your hosts will help you understand how
a wine’s color, aroma, taste, and texture—the teeth-etching acidity of
a Sauvignon Blanc, the silky suppleness of a Pinot Noir—engage the
senses. Ask your host to explain why Cabernet Franc often evokes the
flavor of a bell pepper or why a little Semillon is blended into their
Sauvignon Blanc. Tour a winery to understand the complex processes
involved in making a sparkling wine. Take part in a wine and food
pairing to learn how certain varietals and foods complement each other. Tasting wine will help you learn to trust and value your palate—an
ability that will come in handy when a waiter hands you the wine list.

NAPA WINERY LISTINGS

Some wineries require
appointments or are not open
to the public; please call for
more details.

CHRISTOPHER SAWYER
Christopher Sawyer is an internationally renowned
sommelier, wine educator, journalist, consultant,
critic, and public speaker. Here are his favorite places
to grab a great glass.
V Wine Cellar
“Inside the historic V Marketplace, V Wine Cellar
has earned a reputation for its vast wine selection
and delectable regional wines by the glass.” 6525

Washington St., Yountville, (707) 531-7053,
vwinecellar.com.
Bergamot Alley
“Slick interior, music on weekends, and wine club
memberships keep you linked to what’s happening
year-round. A great setting to sip with wine geeks,
hipsters, and local personalities.” 328 Healdsburg Ave.,

Healdsburg, (707) 433-8720, bergamotalley.com.

4660 Silverado Trail, Calistoga
(707) 942-4787, phiferpavittwine.com

Willi’s Wine Bar
“Known for its tasty tapas-style bites, Willi’s features
a cozy bar area and outside seating where you can sip
on a wide range of regional wines by the flight, glass,
or bottle.” 4404 Old Redwood Hwy., Santa Rosa, (707)

American Viticultural Areas
ATLAS PEAK The mountainous terrain here is cooler year-round than the valley floor, and the
volcanic soil, which often requires irrigation, yields higher acidity Cabernet Sauvignons and
Sangioveses, and crisp Chardonnays laced with floral and pear flavors.
CALISTOGA This historic winemaking region—known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel,
and Syrah—gained official AVA status in 2010. The area is distinguished by high elevation,
volcanic soil, and the highest diurnal temperature variation in the valley.
CHILES VALLEY Protected by the surrounding hills, Chiles Valley is mostly warm, but its higher
elevation means cooler nights. The Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Rhône varieties, and
Zinfandels from here are strong and juicy, with unmistakable blackberry, chocolate, and
plum flavors. Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs are on the lighter, crisper side.
COOMBSVILLE Napa’s newest AVA (designated in 2011) is tucked away in a quiet southeastern corner of the valley, with soil containing abundant rock, gravel, and layers of volcanic
ash. The area’s Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordelais varietals are marked by soft but
significant tannins and underlying layers of earth and mineral flavors.
DIAMOND MOUNTAIN Afternoon breezes and marine air keep this region cool. The Cabernet
Sauvignons, Cabernet Francs, and Merlots are firmly structured, rich, and very tannic when
young, with strong black currant, mineral, and cedar flavors, and have excellent aging
potential. The Chardonnays are full-bodied with peach and green apple aromas.
HOWELL MOUNTAIN Across the valley from Spring Mountain, this AVA is warm and dry thanks
to abundant afternoon sun. High elevations and cool nights help maintain good acidity. The
soil is volcanic and shallow, but the red wine grapes are powerful and rich in tannins, with
superb aging acidity.
LOS CARNEROS Breezes from San Pablo Bay keep Carneros cool year-round, ideal for sparkling wines. The main varietals from this shallow, clay-filled soil are spicy pear and apple
Chardonnays; lightly herbal Merlots; spicy, intense Syrahs; and Pinot Noirs that yield cinnamon and cherry flavors.
MOUNT VEEDER The fog rarely reaches these vineyards, making for warmer nights. Wines from
these grapes are intense and age well, yielding Bordeaux-style tannic reds such as Cabernet
Sauvignons, Merlots, and Zinfandels, as well as Chardonnays with good acidity.
OAK KNOLL DISTRICT OF NAPA VALLEY AVA The marine morning air and fog keep this region
cool, producing Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons that benefit from the longer growing
season and are defined by cassis, tobacco, and spices typical of Bordeaux-style reds. The
Chardonnays yield apple and tropical fruit flavors.

SONOMA COUNTY

American Viticultural Areas
ALEXANDER VALLEY Named after pioneer Cyrus Alexander, this AVA is adjacent to the
Russian River. The area’s tame Cabernet Sauvignons rarely need to be mellowed by
blending with Merlot. Earthy Zinfandels, Merlots, French Syrahs, Italian Sangioveses, and
Chardonnays are all prolific here.
BENNETT VALLEY With fewer than 700 acres, and farmed mainly by small independent
growers, this AVA is defined by a long growing season that maximizes flavors, increases
concentration, and softens tannins. Cool weather produces varietals such as Merlot, Syrah,
Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.
CARNEROS Carneros’s cool morning fog blankets lightly soiled hills that roll over into Napa County.
Pinot Noirs that evoke strawberries, Chardonnays with light peach notes, and spicy, intense
Syrahs thrive here. More recently, the area has begun to produce Merlots full of cassis flavor.
CHALK HILL Named for its whitened volcanic-ash hillsides, which afford excellent drainage,
this central AVA produces mineral-filled Sauvignon Blancs, sturdy Chardonnays, and black
currant and cassis Cabs, as well as Cabernet Francs and Merlots.
DRY CREEK VALLEY The valley’s stony soil and warm days tempered by morning Pacific fog yield
excellent Sauvignon Blancs and what’s considered by many the quintessential Zinfandel.
FORT ROSS–SEAVIEW Carved out of the large Sonoma Coast AVA in 2011, this mountainous
area near the Pacific Ocean is above the fog line, with longer periods of sunlight. It is
known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
GREEN VALLEY The coldest AVA in Wine Country, Green Valley is where a grape variety’s
fruity components can best mature. Chardonnays, Gewürztraminers, Pinot Noirs, and
Sauvignon Blancs are flavored by nutmeg, cinnamon, and floral aromas.

OAKVILLE This AVA is moderately warm, cooled by early morning and night fog, which maintains consistent acidity levels. This is Cab country, with Cabs the main varietal, along with
Merlots, which are heavy with currant and mint. The Sauvignon Blancs are full-bodied.

KNIGHTS VALLEY In the warmest AVA, Sauvignon Blancs with hints of fig and melon ripen
best here. Rich reds and Bordeaux Meritage varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignons and
Francs, Merlots, Malbecs, and Petit Verdots are also excellent.

RUTHERFORD Early-morning fog moderates the year-round warmth here, and the volcanic
soil’s deep and fertile gravel and sand have made this region Cabernet country as well. The
cherry flavor is intense, but the tannins are supple enough to withstand longer aging.

SPRING MOUNTAIN High elevations and cool nights maintain good acidity here. Thanks to
great drainage and low fertility, the Cabernets, Merlots, and Zinfandels yield powerful and
rich tannins and superb aging acidity. The chardonnay grapes emit less juice but deliver an
intense citrus flavor.

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY This is Pinot Noir territory. Where most red wines strive for flavor,
Pinot Noirs are about texture, and here the morning river fog combines with the afternoon
sun to develop mature fruit with complex flavors.

STAGS LEAP This AVA is on the warm side, and the heat radiating from sun-soaked rocks then
cooled by the bay yields Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and Sangioveses that have a velvety
texture. The wines are defined by rich cherry flavors and supple tannins. Chardonnays and
Sauvignon Blancs yield citrus and apple flavors.

SONOMA COAST The coolest part of Sonoma County, this AVA receives twice as much rainfall
as the other AVAs. Grapes achieve their fullest flavor here by growing above the morning
fog line on slopes farther inland. Known wines here include creamy Chardonnays and
black-cherry Pinot Noirs.

ST. HELENA Little fog or wind penetrates this valley, where the sun and the gravelly, claylike
soil yield Cabernets, Merlots, and Zinfandels, which all have rich berry flavors and are well
structured. Rhône varietals such as Syrah are slightly earthy and supple.

SONOMA MOUNTAIN Well above the morning fog line, this diverse AVA yields Cabs that are
of the Bordeaux style as well as excellent Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs. Steep slopes,
well-drained soil, and full morning light conspire to yield an intense currant flavor with
touches of blackberry.

WILD HORSE VALLEY This warm AVA in the east is cooled by the winds of nearby Suisun Bay.
The volcanic soil often requires irrigation and yields cherry-like Cabs and Sangioveses, along
with crisp, floral, pear-like Chardonnays.
YOUNTVILLE The moderate climate here—cool, foggy mornings and breezy afternoons—yields
Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots that are rich in flavor and firm in tannins. The Chardonnays are
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crisp and apple-like, and the Sauvignon Blancs are loaded with lemon flavor.

82

WHAT IS AN AVA?
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) are regions whose climate and soil create unique growing conditions. Grapes from a particular AVA have distinct
characteristics—flavors, acidity, textures. Most winemakers blend grapes
from various AVAs to maximize these characteristics. If an AVA is named
on a label (just beneath the wine’s name or grape variety), at least 85
percent of the wine’s grapes come from that AVA. See the winery maps
starting on page 90 for the location of each AVA.

The Insiders Guide to Wine Countr y

SONOMA VALLEY Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs for table and sparkling wines are produced
from this AVA’s cooler areas. Chardonnays with hints of apple and Cabs heavy with the
flavor of currants come from varieties grown up-valley. Zinfandels with peppery, spicy, and
raspberry flavors come from grapes even higher up the ridges.

Meander the marketplace, and work
up an appetite just in time for lunch at
the Healdsburg Shed, housed in an industrial garage. This mercantile arcade
celebrates all things local, with everything from produce and garden goods to
housewares and workshops. Take a seat
to nosh at the cafe, or sip ciders at the fermentation bar. For a culture fix, look no
further than downtown. Browse the two
dozen or so galleries around the town’s
plaza, which showcase local and internationally renowned artists, photographers,
and makers. You can also cool down at
the Hand Fan Museum— the local treasure that has antique and modern hand
fans from around the globe, and is the
only museum of its kind in the U.S.
7:30 P.M.

To really indulge your sense of taste, why
not go on a global gastronomy tour? No
matter what you’re craving, from Moroccan meals at Pizzando to Greek grub
at Taverna Sofia, this locale is brimming

with international flavor. Try one of ten
po’ boy combinations at The Parish Café,
or opt for fancier fare by the fireplace at
Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen.

NAVIGATING NAPA
9 A.M.

Locals love the approachable ambience
found at Alexis Baking Company and
Cafe, known for its delectable breakfast
menu. Perk up with coffee and cornmeal pancakes before a walk around
downtown Napa’s charming antique
shops and tasting rooms. Looking for
a dog-friendly park? Take Fido to play
fetch at Alston Park, where locals go to
hang with their furry friends.
1 P.M.

for Locals Night every Tuesday from 5 to
8 p. m. to enjoy special menu offerings.
Once sated, if it’s sunny, go for a walk
along the swanky Riverfront. If it’s raining, head over to Crush Ultra Lounge at
The Meritage Resort and Spa for cocktails, billiards, and bowling.
6 P.M.

A walk through the quirkily decorated
storefronts of Napa’s Art on First Street
is the perfect warm-up to dinner and a
live performance in Napa’s downtown.
Head to the Napa Valley Opera House
or the Uptown Theatre; both host extensive, intriguing lineups, from rock
stars to comedians. Soak in the sunset
with dinner on the rooftop terrace at
Ninebark, which serves garden-driven California cuisine. If you prefer to
snuggle up and indulge indoors, book a
reservation at Morimoto Napa, the Iron
Chef’s west coast flagship Japanese eatery, where you just might see the sushi
master himself cruising the floor in his
shorts and signature white tennis shoes.
Concierge