Trout Bum wrote in post #18345576Not sure I would post "there" expecting constructive criticism. Too moody, not moody enough, LOL!Process the hell out of your pictures if you want to, or don't-- either choice is legit, and unless you're trying to hit a particular market, what does it matter.I think it's neat, but my 2¢: crop out the pavement.

Yeah, I usually get good feedback from them but last 2 posts not so much, a few "pro" photographers come up with weird negative comments and it seems everyone else followsI tried to remove the pavement but couldn't get it to look right

John_T wrote in post #18345628Don't listen to anybody. You wanted to make the shot interesting, at least for yourself, you accomplished that and got some experience in the doing too. I think what you did there is interesting and all that empty asphalt is much more interesting than the distractions that previously populated it. If you turned the asphalt into a pond, even nicer.

I've actually worked on the shot a little more since the one I posted. I wish I was good enough with photoshop that I could turn it into a pond! Although the people that know the spot this was taken would probably complain that my "image" is "fake"

Neilyb wrote in post #18345848If you are happy then who cares? But, on a more technical level you need to avoid blowing the highlights in the sky, one thing the 5D4 is not great at is highlights (compared to my 4 year old Sony A7r with compressed RAWs) Seriously, really have to watch the blinky bits. Once you have a sky that is not blown you have loads of creative options.

Otherwise it is a car park

I wasn't really happy with it yet (which is why I posted it so I could get outside the box ideas) but the newer edit comes closer to what I had in mind I don't see any blinkies and LR doesn't show any blow highlights (only a few spots of underexposed at the top right) but I am guessing it is really close to being clipped in some areas of the sky

Talley wrote in post #18346481I normally will do a -1/3 in bright sunlight but I've noticed that w/ the 5D4 I need to do -2/3 to help maintain the highlights.

On my 5D3 I always shot at 0, but I do shoot at -1/3 on the 5D4 when shooting in Av, maybe I should try -2/3

71sbeetle wrote in post #18346638Yeah, I usually get good feedback from them but last 2 posts not so much, a few "pro" photographers come up with weird negative comments and it seems everyone else followsI tried to remove the pavement but couldn't get it to look right

I've actually worked on the shot a little more since the one I posted. I wish I was good enough with photoshop that I could turn it into a pond! Although the people that know the spot this was taken would probably complain that my "image" is "fake"

I wasn't really happy with it yet (which is why I posted it so I could get outside the box ideas) but the newer edit comes closer to what I had in mind I don't see any blinkies and LR doesn't show any blow highlights (only a few spots of underexposed at the top right) but I am guessing it is really close to being clipped in some areas of the sky

On my 5D3 I always shot at 0, but I do shoot at -1/3 on the 5D4 when shooting in Av, maybe I should try -2/3

I think the 5dIV doesn't underexpose like the 5d3 did. I've found myself needlessly over correcting out of habit since getting the 5dIV. Kind of nice when you need to push process/not willing to blow $7500 on that 500 f4 II. From my experience the 5dIV is about 2/3rds of a stop more efficient than the 5d3.

71sbeetle wrote in post #18346638I wasn't really happy with it yet (which is why I posted it so I could get outside the box ideas) but the newer edit comes closer to what I had in mind I don't see any blinkies and LR doesn't show any blow highlights (only a few spots of underexposed at the top right) but I am guessing it is really close to being clipped in some areas of the sky

But LR will stop showing blown highlights depending on your tweaks. A blown highlight will not blink, let's say, if you darken exposure/highlights and the blown area is no longer 255,255,255. It will simply make the white area darker and therefore seem not to be over exposed. Best method, for me at least, is to check the histogram in camera and I always use the Neutral picture profile (which I find is the most helpful for showing how the RAw file will look (others modify this to have zero sharpness and contrast, which can affect those blinkies too).

markesc wrote in post #18346666I think the 5dIV doesn't underexpose like the 5d3 did. I've found myself needlessly over correcting out of habit since getting the 5dIV. Kind of nice when you need to push process/not willing to blow $7500 on that 500 f4 II. From my experience the 5dIV is about 2/3rds of a stop more efficient than the 5d3.

I am used to EOS bodies in general tending to want to underexpose,. been setting +1/3 - +2/3rds since the 1D2.

Neilyb wrote in post #18346768But LR will stop showing blown highlights depending on your tweaks. A blown highlight will not blink, let's say, if you darken exposure/highlights and the blown area is no longer 255,255,255. It will simply make the white area darker and therefore seem not to be over exposed. Best method, for me at least, is to check the histogram in camera and I always use the Neutral picture profile (which I find is the most helpful for showing how the RAw file will look (others modify this to have zero sharpness and contrast, which can affect those blinkies too).

Ah OK I guess that makes sense. I usually check for highlights first to see if there are many areas or areas too large of either over or underexposed and then I see if they can be saved or not.It's confusing sometimes LR will tell me an area is overexposed yet I can see detail and color, for example I'm currently editing a picture of a flower and the purple petals which are clearly visible with a lot of detail turn red when I check for highlights.I need to check my histogram in camera more, I rarely do right now.

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