Because his father was in the Navy, Bobby Hotel’s executive chef Jeff Axline spent his childhood moving around a good bit, both within the United States and internationally. He credits his transient lifestyle growing up with spurring his interest in cooking. We talked with him about what he learned throughout his culinary career and what it was exactly that made him want to move to Nashville.

Where were you when you started getting into cooking?

I got started in the game in professional kitchens in the Pacific Northwest. I ended up spending the last 17 years in Texas working in both hotel and free-standing restaurants. I even started a couple from the ground up.

What was it that brought you to Nashville?

I had always wanted to move to Nashville, but wanted to be a part of something I could have an influence on and build from the ground up. The GM and I worked together at a property in Texas, so joining him here was a no-brainer. I was the first hire after him seven months before we opened.

What are your thoughts on Nashville since you’ve been here?

I moved here in September of 2017 and so far, I love it. It’s a natural fit for me being that I moved around a lot to be somewhere where everyone is new. Nashville has aspects of Seattle and Austin. It has the same music and art vibe that I was looking for in a place to live. I wanted to live downtown and be within striking distance of restaurants and nightlife.

Have you had time to take in the local music scene here?

I got Broadway out of my system the first couple of weeks. I took my parents there. The Ryman has always been a place I’ve wanted to cross off my bucket list.

So you moved here seven months before the hotel opened. What were you doing during that time?

I was picking out plateware and glassware and looking at systems, but also getting involved in things most chefs don’t get involved in, like marketing. And pillows and sheets. I found it to be interesting and it taught me a lot. Maybe one day I’ll become a hotel GM. This opportunity allowed me to see the process behind opening a hotel from the ground up.

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Absolutely. I got to see the owners’ vision and learn where their thoughts were coming from. We always wanted to have a Parisian-style café and an American tavern, so we were all able to apply our own personal travels. We ended up taking a little bit from everybody.

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The Bobby actually has four separate restaurants. What sets them apart?

We have the café, the tavern, the rooftop and the garage bar, and each one of those outlets or restaurants has a different feel. That’s what sets us apart. You can go to the garage bar and it’s a bit more gritty. The tavern will give you a bit of a more refined experience. The rooftop in the summertime is very California with menu items like street tacos. And the café is just airy and bright.

Do your menus change seasonally?

Yes. In the winter you are looking for more root vegetables and the menu items are a bit more comforting and warm. We use local squashes and do more braising. We do more grilling in the summer months and more braising in the winter. We try to cook everything we possibly can from scratch. I have two incredible sous chefs. They have a say in what we do. It’s always a group effort. It’s a democracy. I rely on them. If an idea is not so great, they tell me and vice versa.

Do you cook at home?

I do. Especially on the weekends when I have a bit more time. When I do, I like something you can put in the oven that’s going to take a little time. I love a good stew.

What’s the appeal for a chef to cook in a hotel restaurant?

The beauty of a hotel is you have infrastructure that can support creativity. I’ve been involved in freestanding restaurants. You have to be more cautious of what you do. Hotels allow you to be a bit more free. That’s what intrigued me about Bobby is that it’s more of a food and beverage operation with rooms on top of it. It’s such a beautiful spot. The aesthetics are something to behold.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Tie herbs together with butcher twine to form a bouquet garni. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper and add 3 of them to the casserole. Cook over moderate heat, turning, until well browned all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining ribs.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the casserole. Add the onion and carrot and celery and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook until all ingredients are mixed. Add the beer and reduce by one-third. Add broth and bring to a slight boil. Return the ribs to Dutch oven and add herbs and bay leaf, cover and braise in the oven for about 2 hours, until the meat is very tender. Remove ribs once tender and set aside. Reduce cooking liquid until desired thickness (usually enough to coat a spoon). Adjust seasoning as necessary and place short ribs back in to reheat slightly. Serve with horseradish gremolata (recipe below) and your favorite mashed potato recipe or creamy grits.

— Recipe from Jeff Axline, executive chef at The Bobby Hotel

Horseradish Gremolata

1 bunch parsley, stems removed

1 lemon, zest and juice

1.5 ounces fresh horseradish, microplaned

2 ounces prepared horseradish

1 ounce extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Procedure:

Drain liquid from prepared horseradish, finely chop parsley and combine all ingredients. Refrigerate; this can be made ahead of time and held for 4 to 5 days.

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