There are at least ½ a dozen different versions of the 3S-GE, with the very latest variable valve timing (VVTi) version being the most powerful @ approx 220hp. GEARBOX

Currently, this text will deal in depth ONLY with W55 type gearboxes. It is reasonable to assume that any of the boxes listed should fit without any major drama (clutch assemblies excepted) other than that listed below for W55 type boxes. So first determine which gearbox you intend to use.

There are basically 3 different Toyota gearboxes you can use; the T50, W50 & W55-59 series. W55-59 Gearbox mounting

The bellhousing will need to be machined (milled) about 5mm to ensure the input shaft properly inserts into the pilot bearing YOU HAVE TO ADD. The 3S-GE motors have NO pilot bearing in FWD configuration so you will need to use Toyota part number #90363-12002 or SKF part GSB511. This is one of the two most common Toyota pilot bearings. You MUST put this bearing in or risk clutch and gearbox bearing failure. You should be able to use the Companion plate, clutch (this should have the correct splining for your W55 gearbox AND provided you bought a MANUAL gearbox motor), pressure plate and starter motor that came? with the motor. and the clutch release bearing, fork and slave cylinder from the bellhousing you have selected.

If in doubt, either buy the driveshaft yoke that comes with the gearbox or take your old one along with you to test fit. The positioning of the motor in your engine bay will determine whether you need to massage your floor for the gearlever. With luck, you may be able to use your stock gearbox mount depending on car model.

OILING

NOTE: The 3SGE motor normally slants about 15-20 degrees and in an upright FWD position does not drain the oil back from the heads as well as it should. SO pay careful attention to oiling.

To start, either modify the existing sump (these are one piece on early models, 2 piece on later models) or replace sump and oil pickup with pieces off 1S or 2S motor (ex Aussie & European ST140&ST141 Corona RWD circa 1982-85). This takes care of the slanted sump on the FWD 3SGE. Adding about 1" to the depth of the sump and oil pickup to hold extra oil ensures adequate oil remains in the sump. Some conversions have tapped into the side of the head to drain the trapped oil back into the sump via an external line. Also putting a baffle in the middle of the sump helps fix problems with the oil rushing away from the pickup under acceleration.

MOUNTS

You will be able to use the 1S or 2S mounts (if you managed to find one for the sump bits) as a BASIS for your new mounts or completely fabricate your own from scratch. In any case, the mounting of the engine mount to the chassis is up to YOU, every conversion will be different.

FUEL

Provided you have a car with EFI already, there are no real problems. If not, you need to add a fuel return line to the tank and add a high pressure pump and filters.

SUNDRY

You are faced with a few other problems. The distributor on these motors will try to punch a hole in the firewall (as will the rear radiator outlet) and you will either need to..(a) adapt the distributor to face 90 degrees from original (b) use distributor base as crank angle sensor (c) use a crank trigger (d) mount engine further forward (last resort) or (e) make relief in firewall to accomidate distributor. You will need to adapt the rear radiator outlet to do a quick 90 degree turn as it comes off the block and put your sensors in the water flow elsewhere. You'll need to run a long hose from this outlet to the RH side of the radiator. Plus all the usual problems of new accelerator linkages, wiring, exhaust, possible custom radiator. Be aware where your crossmember is as the S motors have their sump at the FRONT.

Depending on your conversion you may find the inlet manifold too high to close the bonnet. You either have to "modify" the bonnet or modify or custom build the inlet manifold. By modify the inlet I mean SOME people have cut the inlet in half along its length and welded it back together with the throttle body down the side of the motor (depends also on WIDTH of engine bay). Your call! Do NOT to cut the manifold with a wide bandsaw as the amount of material you remove is CRITICAL to clearance down the side of the engine. 1/2mm can make all the difference.

If at all possible, get the support brackets that bolt between the side of the engine and bottom of the bellhousing, otherwise premature main bearing or gearbox input bearing failure can result.

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