Moira’s Story: Fragrance & Formaldehyde

My name is Moira Brouillard, and I own a small, eco-friendly hair studio in Concord, New Hampshire called Earthly Roots Hair Studio. I’ve been a Hairstylist and Colorist for 17 years. In 2007, I realized that I had multiple chemical sensitivities. It became clear that ammonia, formaldehyde and fragrance chemicals were the main culprits to the respiratory issues I was developing. Clients also started to have symptoms and complained that their eyes or scalp were burning. For 7 years, I had trusted that the chemicals I had been using in my career were safe. I never questioned it. In cosmetology school, we weren’t educated about the toxic chemicals we would be exposed to, so it became apparent that I needed to educate myself.

I tried everything to resolve the issue. I switched over to non-ammoniated hair color and formaldehyde-free straighteners and perms. My work station had an air purifier and I had a personal air purifier around my neck. It seemed to help, but whenever a co-worker would mix color with ammonia or chemicals with formaldehyde, I would still feel ill from the fumes. The owner of the salon sympathized, and said that at times she did notice the strong smell. For the most part, though, my co-workers weren’t jumping on board.

I had become so allergic to fragrance chemicals that I struggled to work. My symptoms ranged from burning & itchy eyes, a raw throat, achy lungs, and shortness of breath, nausea, dizziness, coughing, sinus headaches, and pain in my chest and heart. After careful consideration, I took the leap to start my own healthy, safe and fragrance-freesalon. In 2011, I opened Earthly Roots Hair Studio. Working for myself is stressful at times, but it is completely worth it because both my guests and I are in a healthier environment. Many of my clients have sought out my fragrance-free salon because of their own chemical sensitivities.

To this day, anything can trigger my symptoms — from perfume and Herbal Essence products, Lysol and aerosol sprays, moth balls, Yankee candles, laundry detergent and dryer sheets, to Glade plug-ins. Fragrance is so ingrained in our culture that most don’t give it a second thought, and I’ve found it very difficult to have a conversation with people about this issue and my illness. I hope that my story will help raise awareness. Toxic chemicals in fragrance have been linked to a number of health impacts ranging from eye and skin irritation to hormone imbalance and increased risk of breast cancer, and might be affecting not only your health, but the livelihoods of those around you. (You can lower your chemical exposure by ditching perfume and scented products. Try experimenting with essential oils, or go au natural!)

Formaldehyde is known to cause cancer. Formaldehyde is in nail polish, hair relaxers, perms, keratin treatments, and other cosmetics/beauty products.

There are healthier choices! KeraGreen is a non-formaldehyde keratin treatment. Organic Color Systems makes a formaldehyde free perm, which has the mildest scent on the market and it can also be used as a straightener! Nail polishes, such as: Zoya, Suncoat, SpaRitual, Seche, Revlon, Rescue Beauty Lounge, Orly International, OPI, NailTini, L’oreal USA, Lippman Collection, Colorpops, CHI, China Glaze, Chanel, Butter London, & Acquarella are all free of formaldehyde, toluene, and dibutyl phthalate.

Ammonia is a gas with an extremely sharp, pungent, irritating odor. Ammonia fumes come from the substance of Ammonia Hydroxide. It is commonly used in the hair color to open the hair cuticle as it is a corrosive substance that extracts water from the cells causing an inflammatory response which damages surrounding tissues. This is completely counterproductive to nurturing healthy hair as ammonia has many detrimental effects to human hair. The Professional salon industry is generally under the impression that ammonia is safe. However, this caustic toxin which is most commonly used in commercial cleaning products and to manufacturer explosives is actually considered to cause cancer by the World Health Organization and the United States environmental Protection Agency. In addition to being a carcinogen, there is strong evidence that ammonia also causes the following health problems.

Long term exposure to ammonia fumes can cause obesity, depression, and social anxiety disorder.

Daily exposure to ammonia will cause high blood pressure, pulmonary edema, and bronchitis.

Continued contact with ammonia hydroxide will dry the skin and damage skin cells and eventually cause serious skin complications.

The large majority of fragrance chemicals are synthetic compounds, with most being synthesized from petroleum products or byproducts of other industries such as turpentine.

Over 80-90% ofall fragrance chemicals are synthetic. synthetic chemicals are used in the fragrance industry because of availability and cost factors. Also using synthetics allow scents not found in nature to be created. It would be impossible to produce perfumes with the intensity and staying power of modern fragrances using all natural materials.

HEALTH CONCERNS

Skin EffectsFragrance chemicals are frequent causes of dermatological problems. The fragrance portion of laundry products and cosmetics is the number one cause of allergic and irritant skin reactions to those products. The majority of times these are local reactions and require contact with the product. However there have been some instances of dermatitis from airborne materials and actually physical contact with the product never occurred. Generalized rashes may also occur in sensitive individuals.

Many fragrance materials can cause photosensitivity. This is of special concern in sunscreen products that contain fragrance. Those materials that have the potential to cause photosensitivity or photo toxicity should not be used in products such as lotions or sunscreens that are used on areas that have exposure to the sun.

While generally one only thinks about what is applied to the skin as onlyaffecting the skin, this is not true. Fragrance chemicals penetrate the skin and thus can affect other organs. Studies have shown that cinnamaldehyde binds with proteins in the skin to cause allergic reactions. It is also found that some fragrance materials are absorbed by the skin and then broken down into materials that are stronger sensitizers than the original chemicals.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS

Fragrance materials are volatile compounds and readily enter the air. Many break down, react with other materials in the air, and form new compounds which are sometimes more toxic than the original substance. In the presence of ozone, small particles can be formed which can be breathed deeply into the lungs. Scented products contribute significantly to indoor air pollution which impact human health, especially sensitive populations.

Though most scented products are used indoors, they eventually end up outside. Air exchange from buildings sends the volatile compounds in outdoor air where they often end up long distances from where they started. Scented products with a wet application such as shampoos, soaps, cleaners, and detergents go down the drain. They are not completely eliminated by waste water treatment and end up in waterways where they can bioaccumulate in aquatic wildlife and travel up the food chain.

Respiratory Considerations

Most of the fragrance chemicals have not had testing done to determine their impact on the respiratory and immune systems.

One study that was done showed that the perfume strips in magazines were triggers for asthma. Another study showed that asthma like symptoms were triggered by fragrance chemicals. This study showed that the symptoms were triggered even when the participants could not detect the odor. It also pointed out that carbon masks while filtering out odor did not prevent the symptoms.

Virtually all of the chemicals used in fragrances are volatile organic compounds. These types of chemicals are known to be respiratory irritants. They are often unstable chemicals that are air, light, and heat sensitive. This means they break down in the air, often to more dangerous compounds. The components in the air that can constantly change.

A fragrance formula may contain as few as 10-15 ingredients or as many as several hundred. Some perfumes are said to have 600-800 ingredients. In perfumes the fragrance materials generally make up 20-25% of the finished products. In other consumer products the percentage of fragrance in a product is much less.

The percentage of any one material is usually very low, so thought to be safe. However, recent studies have shown that some materials potentate the effects of others. So mixtures may pose a health hazard many times that of the individual ingredients. Also if all of the ingredients are respiratory irritants the effect would be a cumulative one of all the chemicals.

Many of the same aldehydes and other chemicals targeted as having effects on the respiratory system in cigarettes are fragrance chemicals that are added to enhance flavor. These chemicals are connected with the increased asthma rates of children in homes of smokers. If these chemicals are harmful in cigarettes they would certainly be harmful in other consumer products.

At the very least fragranced products are triggers for the asthmatic because or irritation to hyperactive airways. Products used by others can be detrimental to asthmatics and can seriously affect their health. And they seriously impact the air quality in homes, offices, schools, and other public places. And there is real potential that they are much more than irritants, and may be the primary cause of asthma in some individuals.

Neurological

The nose is a chemical receptor. When you detect the odor of something you are detecting the chemicals that make up that odor. The sense of smell has a more direct connection to the brain than any other sense. There is no barrier between the brain and the chemicals that you breathe in. While it is well known the effects of "snorting" cocaine, little thought is given to the effects of the other chemicals that pass through our nasal passages.

Studies have shown that inhaling fragrance chemicals can cause circulatory changes in the brain. Changes in electrical activity in the brain also occur with exposure. Fragrances are a frequent trigger of migraine headaches. Changes in circulatory and electrical activity in the brain can trigger migraines in susceptible individuals.

One study showed that mobility in mice was decreased by 30% when exposed to some fragrance chemicals. This effect was present even when stimulated with caffeine. This is a significant consideration that affects health, safety, as well as productivity on the job.

AETT was found to be a neurotoxin and it was found to be absorbed through the skin. AETT was frequently used in "fragrance free" products. Musk Amberette was also found to cause neurological problems in animals and should not be used in fragranced products.

Other Considerations

Since fragrance chemicals are absorbed through the skin they can and do affect other organs of the body. AETT was found to cause discoloration in internal organs. Some of these chemicals are toxic to the liver and kidneys. Others accumulate in fat tissue. Recent research has raised concerns about reproductive effects of phthalates, common solvents used in fragrance formulations.

Synthetic musk compounds have been found in the water supply of urban areas. It is thought that the use of fragranced laundry products, household products, and personal hygiene products such as shampoos has contaminated the water supply. These chemicals are not filtered out by water processing methods and thus what goes down the drain ends up in drinking water. These compounds are being found in fat tissue and breast milk. Only a few studies have been done and the long-term effects are not known. The safety of these chemicals has not been established.

FOR LIVEWELLIf you didn’t know what was unusual about Earthly Roots Hair Studio, if you were to just walk in off the street, you might not notice what’s missing at first. You’d be too busy making acquaintance with Bo, the 4-year-old Bull Mastiff who hangs out at the salon with owner Moira Brouillard, or admiring the original artwork from local artists for sale on the walls, or checking out the irresistible little make-your-own perfume counter near the rack of unconventional salon reading material.

But at some point, possibly while you were sniffing the patchouli and ylang ylang essential oils and realizing you could actually smell them, certainly by the time Brouillard had you in her chair and began gently educating you on the beauty industry, it would hit you: Hey this place doesn’t reek like a normal salon. It doesn’t smell like a meth lab sitting in the middle of a chicken farm that’s downwind of a paper mill. Aaaaaaaaaah.

Brouillard, a lovely red head with an enviable sense of fashion, opened Earthly Roots about a year ago as a way to escape the nefarious chemicals that saturate conventional beauty routines. A longtime stylist who had worked in Atlanta and Concord, she at first expunged harsh chemicals from her life as a way to take better care of herself and the environment.

“When I stopped using those things, I became more sensitive and had a hard time being around them,” Brouillard said. She also began noticing how many of her clients had sensitivity issues. “I would have to rush them to the sink because the ammonia was burning their scalp,” she said.

Brouillard began researching the beauty industry and seeking out products that didn’t contain potentially harmful chemicals. There was little she could do to change the practices at the Concord salon where she was working at the time, so Brouillard decided to strike out on her own, opening Earthly Roots in a small upstairs office in the Concord Business Center on Hall Street.

Here, clients can choose from a menu of services that includes haircuts, highlights, all-over color treatment and even perms at prices that are similar to regular salons. You can also try henna highlights or get a henna tattoo from a tattoo artist who contracts with Brouillard. What you can’t get here is a dousing of ammonia, formaldehyde, petroleum-derived products or other toxic chemicals.

“It’s just unbelievable the things we put on our bodies,” said Brouillard, who tests and researches all the products she carries. Luckily, awareness about the harmfulness of traditional beauty products is on the rise, and numerous manufacturers have responded with organic and all-natural products.

Still, you have to be a savvy consumer, Brouillard said, because many companies will try to dupe you with false claims. This is another benefit of patronizing Brouillard’s salon: While she’s doing your hair or giving you a complimentary hand massage as your color sets, she’ll share what she’s learned about beauty products and their effects on human beings and the environment. She’ll tell you the five most common toxic chemicals to avoid in your beauty routine, and she’ll let you in on cheap, easy things you can do for healthier hair and skin (she swears a spray bottle of vinegar and water will transform your hair and scalp).

Brouillard considers education to be a key component of her business as well as her mission. She recently did a presentation at the Manchester School of Technology, where she attended high school, and is planning for students from St. Paul’s School to visit the salon and learn about greening their beauty routines.

Brouillard is also plugged into the local green movement and tries to carry as many local beauty products as she can, including Sukesha shampoo and conditioner, which is made in Manchester; and mineral make-up from a Maine-based company. She’ll tell you where you can get holistic treatment for your pet, an all-natural manicure or even a Mayan abdominal massage.

Of course, the big question clients have is how well this all-natural stuff actually works. I submitted to an ammonia-free color treatment to find out for myself.

Much like my battle against gray hair, my personal battle against harsh chemicals has varied in tactic and degree of ferocity over the years, depending on what enlightening article I may have just read or how flush with cash I was feeling. I’ve tried various “all-natural” shampoos and conditioners, from the pricey, Parisian formulas pushed on me at the salon to the grocery store varieties that tend to leave my hair feeling like my kids’ Barbie dolls’ after they’ve spent an hour in the Barbie Glam Pool. Of late I’ve been covering my gray myself with an all-natural product I buy at the co-op.

Brouillard hooked me up with a rich brown permanent color made by Mastey de Paris. It went on much like regular hair dyes, but without the accompanying odor and stinging feeling on my scalp. She washed it out with Sukesha shampoo and conditioner, blow dried it and then dry-cut it: Brouillard specializes in dry cutting, which she says is more of an art than wet cutting. A persuasive salesperson, she also sent me home with some make-your-own perfume, which makes me feel slightly exotic even in my Target fashions, and a bottle of make-your-own shampoo, a combination of Dr. Bronner’s castile soap and essential oils.

I took her advice and replaced my conditioner with a spray bottle of half vinegar/half water, and a few days in I’ve got to say I’m liking my ’do. The color seems a bit richer than what I’d been using, and I’m hoping that using all natural products to wash it will keep it looking good longer. It feels shiny and looks less frizzy than usual, and I really love how by the end of the day my natural oils have lent it additional shine and body.

I know what’s missing – parabens and sulfates and probably some propylene glycol – and I’m not missing them at all.

Henna, "Lawsonia inermis", is a shrub or small tree that grows in hot, dry climates. It is used to keep the hair healthy and cover gray.

Other herbs like, indigo, amla and cassia are also used to achieve different color variations. There is a blonde, browns or a clear treatment, you don't have to be a redhead. All promote healthy conditions of the skin and hair.

Henna has no additives, chemicals, or pesticides. Smooths and seals the hair's cuticle for greater shine and body. Custom-tailored for you & can be used for special effects, covering grey, and improving texture. Henna is such a healing herb, it's wonderful for restoring and conditioning the hair!

Are you dealing with acne? Don't waste your time with Proactive or anything that has salicylicacid or benzyl peroxide in the ingredient list. In my experience, it will only make matters worse by drying your skin out. You will still have the acne and you will also gain dry skin! The BEST face wash to use for acne is Thoroughly Clean Face Wash by Desert Essence. It can be found, inexpensively at your local natural foods store. Desert Essence also makes a Blemish Touch Stick that is amazing at zapping pimples and it's small enough to travel with you all day! You can use it to spot treat 3-4 times a day.

*Add a pinch of sea salt to the face wash once you squirt it in your hand, emulsify in your hands and apply gently in a rolling motion. DO Not rub, scrub or over wash your skin!! It is extremely important to be gentle, patient and only use cool water.

Using jojoba oil and a drop of lavender essential oil is a simple moisturizer you can make inexpensively at home. Jojoba oil is the closest oil to your skin's natural sebum.

There is an awesome facial mask, also found at your local natural foods store.Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay“World’s Most Powerful Facial” and is made of 100% natural Calcium BentoniteClay for deep pore cleansing. But it is the back of the container that soundseven more fascinating… big red letters say “Feel Your Face Pulsate!” … but there are even more uses for Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay. “Facials, acne, bodywraps, clay baths, foot soaks, chilled clay forknee packsand insect bites” are just a few of the things that it can be used for.*You WILL need to use warm water & a wash cloth to get the mask off after it hardens, but every day & night when you are simply cleansing your skin use cool water.If you have severe acne, use the mask 2-3x/wk until you see it starting to clear up, then only use once a week or less.*If your skin tends to be dry, spot treat (only put the mask on your pimples)You will love this mask, it really helps clean the pores and clear the acne!All of these inexpensive products, used in combination will clear up your skin in no time!

If you are suffering significant hair loss, seek the advice of a health care professional. Certain illnesses can cause hair loss and should be ruled out. Treat your hair and scalp gently if you are suffering from hair loss. Avoid harsh chemicals, exposure to chlorine from swimming pools, and heavy oil and conditioning treatments. Follow a well balanced diet. Make and use hair care products(Shampoo For YOU can be made at Earthly Roots) using your choice of the following essential oils.

cedarwoodlavenderrosemarylemonpatchouliylang ylang

German ChamomileClary SageJuniperRoseGrapefruitCypress

*Try rinsing your hair with vinegar or lemon juice, both are wonderful conditioning rinses for those with thinning hair! If you suffer from hair loss due to any variety of causes do not apply a conditioner to your hair. The added weight to the hair shaft can cause an increase in hair loss.

Propylene Glycol A cosmetic form of mineral oil found in automatic brake and hydraulic fluid, and industrial antifreeze. In skin and hair care products propylene glycol works as a humectants, which is a substance that retains the moisture content of skin or cosmetic products by preventing the escape of moisture or water. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) warn users to avoid skin Contact with propylene glycol as this strong skin irritant can cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage.

Sodium Lauryl (Laurel) Sulfate (SLS) Harsh detergents and wetting agents used in garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers and auto cleaning products. SLS is well-known in the scientific community as a common skin irritant. It is rapidly absorbed and retained in the eyes, brain, heart and liver, which may result in harmful long-term effects. SLS could retard healing, cause cataracts in adults and keep children's eyes from developing properly. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) recommend wearing self-contained breathing apparatus, rubber boots and chemical resistant gloves, safety goggles and chemical fume hoods while handling for personal protection.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) SLES is the alcohol form (ethoxylated) of SLS. It is slightly less irritating than SLS, but may cause more drying. Both SLS and SLES may cause potentially carcinogenic formations of nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoos and cleansers by reacting with other product ingredients. Large amounts of nitrates may enter the blood system from just one shampooing. SLS and SLES may be irritating to scalp and may cause hair loss.

Diethanolamine (DEA) A colorless liquid or crystalline alcohol that is used as a solvent, emulsifier and detergent (wetting agent). DEA works as an emollient in skin softening lotions or as a humectant in other personal care products. When found in products containing nitrates, it reacts chemically with the nitrates to form potentially carcinogenic nitrosamines. Although earlier studies seamed to indicate that DEA itself was not a carcinogen, more recent studies show its carcinogenic potential, even in formulations that exclude nitrates. DEA may also irritate the skin and mucous membranes. It is known that we should avoid using other ethanolamines, which may also be know as triethanolamine, (TEA), and also monoethanolamine (MEA)

Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben Parabens are used as inhibitors of microbial growth and to extend shelf life of products. Widely used even though they are known to be toxic. Parabens have caused many allergic reactions and skin rashes. Methyl paraben combines benzoic acid with the methyl group of chemicals. Highly toxic.

All beauty products at Earthly Roots Hair Studio have been thoroughly researched & tested on performance to provide you with the most natural beauty care available.Essential Blends! New at Earthly Roots! *make your own essential oil perfume!

You Must read labels!Fragrance chemicals are in fabric softners, laundry detergents, perfumes, personal care products, air fresheners and many other products contribute to health and environmental problems.

You are not protected by the government from exposure to fragrance chemicals in products. There is minimal government regulation and monitoring of their safety, despite the widespread exposure of fragrance chemicals in thousands of products.

95% of the chemicals in fragrances are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum.

A variety of fragrance-free products are available from natural food stores. Read the product labels carefully. Some misleading advertising words: "natural", "floral", "hypoallergenic", "natural scent" make you think the product is safe when it may not be safe.

Some "unscented" and "fragrance-free" products can contain masking fragrances to cover up the smell of other ingredients.

Your skin, your body's largest organ, absorbs fragrance chemicals by direct application, by contact with fragranced items, and by exposure to air containing fragraces.

Vinegar is a great remedy for many scalp issues.It is actually moisturizing! Use in a spray bottle so you can control where you want it. Use half water & half vinegar in the bottle.If you have sensitive skin, it can turn your skin a little pink. This goes away after 30 mins or so, just be careful with application & try not to get it in your eyes.

Use before shampooing or as a rinse after shampooing.

*If you can't stand the smell, rinse and use conditioner after use or try using less vinegar.*No worries for colored hair, vinegar sets hair color! Henna Herbal Hair Color is very healing & can be used as a remedy as well.

Using a natural bristle brush is important too (even for curly hair), it pulls your natural oils down through the hair and stimulates your scalp. If you have curls, brush before bed or before entering the shower. Eco-Friendly Natural Bristle brushes, made humanly are available at Earthly Roots!

If the issue is still not resolved, going to a holistic doctor or a master herbalist may be a good idea to combat this from the inside out. You will most likely have to change your diet, that will be key.