Marc by Marc Jacobs / Fall 2013 RTW

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Let’s address the elephant in this room first, shall we? The Marc by Marc Jacobs show was moved up from 4:00 p.m. Tuesday at the Lexington Armory (its usual spot) to 8:00 p.m. Monday at Lincoln Center because of shipping and customs delays with the Marc Jacobs Collection, which was supposed to show Monday night (and is now showing on Thursday night). Complications with the shared venue––the Collection’s set is currently in place at the Armory and can’t be moved until showtime––forced Marc by Marc to find a new home, fast, and it was Lincoln Center to the rescue. (It probably goes without saying that Marc Jacobs’s success at securing a slot there with just a few days notice is nothing if not a testament to his power within New York’s fashion industry.) That’s the story. Now, let’s get to the clothes already.

They were very late-seventies-looking, with swing coats, high-waisted cropped pants, and little knit dresses for the women, and slouchy, loungy suits over mock-turtleneck sweaters for the guys. One got the sense looking at the opposite sexes that she, so professionally attired, was working nine-to-five while he, so relaxed, maybe wasn’t. The palette was credited to the paintings of Otto Dix––subdued and mature would be the words for the quality of the colors, which ranged from berry to blue, but never with any real punch. And the prints––because it wouldn’t be Marc by Marc without prints––were equally adult. One, a geo-leaf called the Etta, showed in constant repeat head-to-toe; another, the Tulip, was applied to many long-sleeved turtleneck dresses and one very Mrs. Roper muumuu-plus-pajama-pant look. If there is one sure thing that editors can take with them from this show, though, it’s the bags: Darci, Mathilde, and Rosie. Like proper luggage, they all featured firm cases and handles for carrying in-hand––the “go” in go-to for desirable accessories so far this season.