Third-generation hawker Jasmine Lee says: "I saw Mum, Dad and Grandma work seven days a week. I wanted to continue the family business.

"Many called me 'Daddy's little girl' and did not take me seriously. I will go learn on my own what Dad can't teach me and be my own boss."

CLASSICS

Miss Lee is tackling the heat in the kitchen, whipping up the classics that many expect from Huat Kee.

It still does premium dishes like abalone (from its farm in Africa) and sea cucumbers very well and its signature Teochew steamed pomfret is the one to beat.

Huat Kee's chive noodle is handmade by blending the greens with flour, then pan-frying it into crispy wedges with a soft middle. It is served with vinegar or sugar dip.

This dish is very rare and simple yet delicious.

The kai lan olive fried rice was as good as I remembered it to be. The wok hei in the rice, crunchy from chopped kai lan and savoury saltiness from the preserved olives, made eating this a great pleasure.

The oyster omelette was crisp and not overloaded with starch. It created an explosion of beautiful flavours from juicy, fresh oysters.

Or you can dip the leftover of the crispy chive noodles in sugar - that would make the meal Teochew and not merely Chinese.

Teochew Restaurant Huat Kee

Level 2, RELC Building, 30, Orange Grove Road

Daily: 10.30am to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm

Tel: 6423 4747

Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces a food series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates foodcourts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts.

KF Seetoh, the founder of Makansutra, dabbles in street food businesses like Food Markets, his own TV shows on cable, publishing food guides, consultancy and online content. He is also the creator of the World Street Food Congress. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.