4 Comments

I really think this is a underrated route for Crowders. Looks like the harder (right side of bolts) line has flaked out and disintegrated over the years, but the left side line is still very good. Big moves to to holds that are better than you think. Until you get to the the LARGE Creaky Flake (5th to 6th bolt). Remember pull down not out. The traversing is fun too. Thanks to Diabe for this one.
Mar 13, 2014

This route's original anchor was around the corner halfway up the wall right before the Energy Czar ledge (halfway up Instant Karma Direct). Because this anchor is in bad shape and in need of replacement, it is vetoed for the Energy Czar anchor for 'Butcher', and 'Karma' routes.

Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.

When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cleaning... unless you are being lowered on the rings in which case is seen, by some, as bad practice due to the wear on the rings.

If anything the anchors should be moved to the top of the cliff to extend the routes... just my opinion.
Jan 30, 2013

i think the anchors for this route should be moved down below the huge ledge because when you rapell down to clean it tears the rope up really bad, the rock up there is really sharp, and if you ever wanted to top rope it you would want an extremely long anchor system.
Nov 12, 2012