Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.

You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.

Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.

Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This dome is located west from the notorious Elephant Dome. It features an obvious east face that takes sun most of the day but is shaded late in the afternoon.

The most popular climbs are Café Mendoza, Wily Javelina, Table for Two and Beggar's Banquet. The rock, for the most part, is of excellent quality, but it may be really bad in particular places. Be aware!

Table for Two and Beggar's Banquet are fully equipped with anchors and chains for rapping. Independently of what you climb, if you get to the summit, use either one of these safe descent routes.

Getting There

From the water reservoir, follow the cairns up through a big granite slab. When the trail branches, take the left hand side, heading west. The right side will take you to the Elephant Dome. The trail will take you up stream into the gully that runs down between Elephant Dome and Table Dome. Follow it until you get to the base of the wall.

1. Diagonal right past 4 bolts, then up and slightly left, passing original 2-bolt belay to a small ledge with 2-bolts. (5.9 , 160)2. Easy climbing wanders basically straight up past a bolt then a ¼ rivet to a large rock on a ledge and 3 bolts. (165)3. A hidden stopper placement protects the first bulge move to easier climbing. Up past a bolt to the huge ledge and a 2-bolt belay about 30 left of main corner. (5.6+, 160)4. Walk right a bit until you can access a diagonalling series of sc...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ

Went in there Sunday night, camped by the gate. Right at the gate we ran into a couple ranchers who asked what why we were out there. We told them we were there to climb. They looked a little impatient and said "Just climbing eh?" We again said that yes, we were just there to climb. The driver said basically, "Okay, cool. Be safe out there" and cruised on his way.

On our way out, we noticed that there was a hand-written note in the registration box saying that Mendoza Canyon was closed due to destruction and theft of predator traps.

Not sure what it all means, but we left the campsite meticulous, and hopefully other climbers won't give them a reason to lock the gate.