Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 4339 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

The last 8 posts

Hmmmm, that would probably mean your controller is an IVT1160<b>OD</b> ~ and the world may never know why the common wire was disconnected in the first place. Keep some extra fuses around, of the proper value, since you will no longer be able to reset the circuit breaker. 2 amps would be a maximum value, and down to 1 amp would work with modern control valves. (if you have a master valve, 1 amp might be a bit low)

Why do I make things so difficult. It helps to have a retired Texas Instruments tech living across the street. I'll fess up. For some reason, I put the common wire on station 11?????????
Besides this, the reset button is shot...He put in a fuse...Moved the common to where it is supposed to go. All is working now. Thanks everyone

The 'D' probably means you have a 'dual common' controller. You'd have a 'calendar wheel' with two pin positions for each day, one for shrubs, and one for lawn. The two common wires get connected to the valves in accordance to the use and schedule. This was a sort of mechanical shortcut to what can be done quite easily with a solid-state controller.

In simple terms, the old controller may not be cost-effective to repair. If your sprinkler system used Imperial brass zone valves, a standard solid-state controller might not supply the amount of current the valves require. Something heavy-duty like A Hunter ICC would then be needed.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can figure out how to fix the controller on your own, since it does use obtainable parts. (Imperial is long out of business) You might also find a service you can send the controller to, and have it repaired and returned.

Do note what has been said - this controller is running 120 volt circuitry, and is hazardous to monkey around with. While this made it particularly resistant to power-surge-damage, it also made it something to be cautious about.

Your test didn't help you...as you didn't move the common.....be careful inside those imperials as the 120v wires are sometimes very easy to come into contact w/ depending on the model!

this could be a multitude of problems...however, the fact that it is ALL the zones sorta narrows it down. You will need to test the output of the Imperial timer for 24v at the station terminals or wirenuts, again, depending on the model.

It may be best to post a pic of the timer...and let us know how handy you are before we begin....don't know what part of the country you are in, but some of us know irrigators all over the usa...maybe we can find you a referral?

What is the model number of the Imperial controller? Some Imperials had a 'dual common' arrangement, with no common terminal alongside the zone terminals. And don't just look at wires, get a multimeter and do resistance testing to verify the wiring's quality.

No stations coming on

I have a Imperial Valet timer with 11 stations. None of the stations will come on (auto or manual). I've checked the wiring...all looks fine. All stations were working fine 10 days ago. I did replace a section 11 days ago (this was just replacing waterline and heads).

I bought another controller, Orbit WaterMaster 12 station, moved 1 section wire from the Imperial to the Orbit, still nothing.

I'm curious about 1 thing about the imperial, I noticed it doesn't have a common wire...is this correct....