The Woolmark Company Is Eyeing Generation Z, Plans On Calling Out 'Bad Guys' Over Pollution In 2017

For the 2017 edition of the International Woolmark Prize Final – the annual event that promotes the use of wool through an initiative which puts a spotlight on the next generation of fashion designers – the contest went back to where it all started back in 1953: the city of Paris. Australia-headquartered The Woolmark Company - notorious for promoting and certifying high quality (Australian) wools - has seen previous International Woolmark Prize winners in the form of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, and more recently the duo behind NYC streetwear brand Public School.

This year marked the first time that the menswear and womenswear finals were staged as one event. On a recent Monday inside Paris’ Palais de Tokyo venue, twelve designers coming from six different regions across the world, competed for an award of AU$ 100,000. Additionally, the winners’ capsule collections shall be stocked at leading retailers including Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and SSense.com.

Winner in the menswear category was Cottweiler, a British brand founded by designer duo Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty. In the specially-designed capsule collection centered around the use of wool, Cottweiler kept things street-smart and fashion forward. That is, zip closure navy sportswear attire, clean tailoring, and padding where needed: high performance meets high fashion.

Uruguay-born designer Gabriela Hearst - who represented the USA - came out as the winner in the female category. Her IWP capsule collection was largely centered around a neutral color palette and classic wardrobe staples. “The trench I’d say is amongst my favorites,” she says of one of her designs when we speak post-victory. “Working with wool is working with a really luxurious noble yarn, and it practically doesn’t wrinkle. My collection was all about celebrating staples – the things that you take with you on a trip. I also wanted to get rid of the stereotype that wool is itchy, or something that reminds you of your grandmother’s sweater. Merino wool is perfect to wear on your skin as it regulates your body temperature: it keeps you cool when it’s hot, but warm when it’s cool. It’s a magical yarn.”

The judging panel responsible for the choosing the 2017 IWP winners, included names such as fashion designer Victoria Beckham, W magazine editor-in-chief Stefano Tonchi, plus Australian Wool Innovation (The Woolmark Company’s parent company) CEO Stuart McCullough. McCullough, considered one of the 500 people shaping the global fashion industry according to The Business of Fashion, has executed various marketing efforts – mainly targeting the northern hemisphere - since 2010, pushing for the use of high-quality wool within the world of luxury apparel and sportswear. Simultaneously, constructing the future of fashion and pulling in the next generation of consumers is also a steady agenda point. “Australia produces 90% of world’s fine apparel wool, and production has remained pretty static – it’s not going up, it’s not going down. By reinvesting in marketing since 2010 we’ve managed to lift demand. So when supply stays the same while you lift demand, you get a price lift. Over the past seven years, the price of wool has nearly doubled, which is great news for wool growers. Since we don’t target mass merchandisers but the very pinnacle of the fashion triangle, these retailers have elasticity in their pricing. Whether it’s 5 dollars per kilogram or 50 dollars – they’re still going to buy it,” AWI’s CEO says when we meet.

As part of its 2017 marketing strategies, The Woolmark Company will highlight the environmental impact wool has, compared to other fibers. Through these marketing initiatives, the company plans on calling out “the bad guys”. “Generation Y and Generation Z care,” McCullough says. Continuing, “It’s about telling the truth. Don’t say you’re very good up to a certain point in the cycle - but when it’s out of sight it’s out of mind. It’s not, as you’re leaving waste in the soil. We’re going to start talking up the whole truth, ‘cause the end of the cycle is important. It’s that little bit at the end which differentiates wool from the rest, such as polyester. As far as wool is concerned, there’s very little chlorine use, it doesn’t require huge amounts of water and it’s a pretty clean process throughout the whole supply chain. Right now influencing Generation Z - as they’re about to make some cash - is a big deal. It’s something we’re very conscious of and we’re being reasonably successful with it. But there’s still a way to go.”