Last Month, I introduced bespoke tailor Alexander Amann from Berlin. He is not only the youngest tailor in Berlin, but he also has a huge repertoire of styles. Even his house style is an amalgamation of various historic cutting systems. Hence, I would like to share more details about the Alexander Amann suit style.

Amann House Style

First of all, I should emphasize that Alexander Amann builds each suit around the customer. This means that no two suits are alike. If somebody comes in and orders “a bespoke suit”, the look will depend on the profession of the customer, his intended wear, and the personality behind it. The wearer has to look comfortable and confident in it – there must be no doubt that it is his suit.

Single Breasted Jacket – PG

The Conservative Business Suit

That being said, a conservative business suit by Alexander Amann combines a number of patterns and historic styles.

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The classic dark blue or grey suit is tailored of worsted wool and is not extreme in any way. The single breasted lapels are usually 8 to 9 cm wide, the armholes are generally smaller, he uses some shoulder padding and a good amount of canvas. Of course, all these things can change based on the individual client.

As with all good bespoke garments, there is a substantial amount of handwork incorporated into each of Amann’s suits. The process begins with ironing the cloth, which often requires hours of work. This way, he can nearly mold the cloth along the customer’s body lines.

Normally, Alexander wants his jacket to fit around the body very closely – “it must hug the wearer” he says. The hand sewn collar must sit tightly around the neck and everything has to drape beautifully without any wrinkles.

Unless the client has a different request, Amann tailors his suits with a good amount of horse hair canvas. Unlike a classic coat from Sicily or Naples, his coats will be a little heavier and sturdier, showing fewer wrinkles even at the end of a long work day.

His trousers are normally cut rather narrow, with a button fly and flap pockets- unless of course, the figure or taste of the customer demand something different.

Of course, every pattern is made from scratch for each person, but style influences come from German patterns of the 1940s.

Vintage Fusion Style

Waistcoat With Spencer Seam

Other than his classic suits, Alexander Amann offers very unique cuts and styles. While these styles are different, they are not just random fashion creations but much rather they are all based on vintage garments such as frock coats, tailcoats etc – hence, I call it Vintage Fusion Style.

Colors & Patterns

Alexander Amann’s clientele is very mixed, ranging from students, CEOs, and hip artists to musicians, directors and conservative lawyers. Therefore, he sometimes tailors garments in stronger colors and interesting fabric patterns that would make a traditional British or German tailor rather uncomfortable.

Scabal Salvador Dali Fabric

One of the more extroverted pieces was this single breasted suit, which was made out of a Scabal Salvador Dali cloth in an interesting patterned stripe. The client thought the purple thread accent would compliment the overall look.

Galon Stripe on Trousers

Vest & Trouser With Contrasting Fabric

Another example is the brown trousers and waistcoat he tailored for himself. They feature an orange/brown plaid galon stripe along the side, with pockets as well as the pocket flap lined with the same fabric. The waistcoat has a spencer seam and is certainly very unique.

One of Amann’s hallmarks are special overcoats in which he uses the spencer seams as we know them from frock coats, combined with special vents, cuffs and a button fly.

Overcoat Back

The Details

Of course, all the buttonholes are hand sewn, the collar is sewn by hand, the subtle pick stitching is done by hand and the back of the lapel features a boutonniere loop. But these things are just the frosting on the cake. Features like shoulders, ironwork and the canvas are the core characteristics of a coat. Alexander wants his garments to be very sturdy so that his clients can enjoy them for many years. As such, he not only tries to use hard wearing cloth but he also pads his lapels by hand or with a strobel machine to maintain its roll. On top of that, he uses a special tailor tape to reinforce the edges so they will not wrinkle. Just look at the unfinished lapel – can you see the tape?

Hand Padded Lapel And Tailor’s Tape – PG

For all of his garments, he tries to create a harmonious look. On this overcoat, he used the spencer seams and hence also decided to create a round gorge.

Interestingly, Amann is very determined not to use any metal in his suits. Consequently, you will not find zippers or hooks in his garments, unless the client insists otherwise. Apart from that, he seems enamored with concealed buttons. On his own jacket, he even had his sleeve cuff buttons tailored with a fly, just like the trousers’ button fly and back pocket.

Split Flap – note the pattern matching

Summary

In some respect, Amann’s willingness to think outside the box reminded me of Andrew Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell and the things he tailored. I think Alexander Amann could tailor a suit for a punk, a vintage lover as well as for conservative people lawyers or politicians and all would look authentic in it. So, if you happen to be in Berlin and you do look for a classic German garment or a very unique bespoke style, chances are you find both at Alexander Amann’s tailor shop in Berlin. For prices please click here.

Button shanks are completely unnecessary as the length of the shank depends of the thickness of the fabric. I also don’t agree with the split flap as it is guides the eye more to the seam. Traditional it is not necessary to much the pattern those 3cm into the side panel. Sometimes it is only 2cm. If you have more than 3cm cutting the flap into the side panel be sure you made profound design mistake. When I see the armhole it is way too deep and has a wrong form.

Let’s see if my comment get deleted here. But I am right, I am a cutting pro.

I do like button shanks and Mr. Amann tailors the flaps usually without the split. I had just never seen it before and thought it was worth mentioning it. One of the things he also said was:” Jeder Schneider meint er weiß, wie man richtig schneider – da gehört ich auch dazu” (Every tailor claims to know how to tailor the right way – I am one of them) and you obviously also know how it is done correctly ;).