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Who can remove broken sprue plate pivot screw?

It might be because it is old, but I had the sprue plate pivot screw snap on an old Yankee SC mold while casting the other day. The mold blocks are unitized like the original Ideals, and not separate like we are used to seeing them nowadays. Anyway, It snapped off flush with the hole and it's not moving. Please don't tell me it's a simple fix, "all you gotta do is...."
I know my limitations in my old age; I've screwed up enough stuff and I'll let somebody else do this the right way.
Now, the question is: who do I send this thing to?

It might be because it is old, but I had the sprue plate pivot screw snap on an old Yankee SC mold while casting the other day. The mold blocks are unitized like the original Ideals, and not separate like we are used to seeing them nowadays. Anyway, It snapped off flush with the hole and it's not moving. Please don't tell me it's a simple fix, "all you gotta do is...."
I know my limitations in my old age; I've screwed up enough stuff and I'll let somebody else do this the right way.
Now, the question is: who do I send this thing to?

If you have a local auto mechanic who you trust, they could remove it for you with an easy out. As long as they are careful and have done broken screw/bolt removal before there should not be a problem for them. It would save you shipping.

Its not usually a real bad job to do. unless there is a lot of rust and or corrosion. most job shops ( small machine shops), mechanics, ( last choice would be auto zone or those type stores but they do offer some services) and one of the better that's normally free or materials only cost is the local trade school. Stop in and talk to them. Even though they are students the instructor is well trained and they want to do a good job. Check with the colleges giving apprenticeship courses here.

If you don't want to attempt it your self then the best thing to do is every morning put a drop of kroil or penetrating oil on the screw to soak in and loosen any crud corrosion or build ups. The time doing this is well spent as a few days here can really ease removal.

Don't know what kind of tools/skills you have available, but to remove a broken mold screw first remove the set screw holding the broken screw. Soak the mold overnight in Kroil Oil as it will penetrate around the screw and dissolve rust. Use a sharp punch to put a dimple in the center of the broken screw for starting the drill. Drill a hole in the center of the screw, best done with a cobalt drill & drill press. Hopefully the easy out will get enough bite to remove the screw.

Problem is sending the mold to a repair shop, the cost will probably exceed the value of the mold, since used SC molds don't usually fetch a high price. What part of the country do you live in?

Ace Hardware will have an 'easy out. Take your time, and make sure you 'center' your drill bit. If the stub is broken at an angle, you could flatten it with a file or Dremel, before center punching it. I would soak it in some penetrating oil after you have it drilled and the set screw is out too. hc18flyer

Bronze expands a lot more than steel,so after drilling,heat mold before twisting screw....Another bit of very good advice...........Use Ridgid brand splined ezy outs.........they wont shatter in the hole like el cheapo ones.

At work we removed a lot of broken screws and bolts with just a hammer and small prick punch. put a prick on the edge and then tap in the direction to turn it to remove. Removed a lot like this. from 8s up to 1/2" sometimes a small chisel will cut a slot and then used tike a screw driver removes it. drilling isn't always necessary since once broken and the head gone there is little to no force holding the thread.

Heat the mold up good, put Kroil or PB blaster to it. Several times will help over period of couple
days. Don't attempt to drill with a hand held drill. Needs clamped in drill press vice. Once center
is located and punched use a small bit for pilot hole. Then drill with biggest bit you can without
endangering threads. At this point heat again and use the penetrating oil. The tapered easy outs
are the best. You have to remember the easy out is wedging its way in to get a bite. Use a small
handle on easy out so you can feel what's going on. It seems like a lot of trouble but if you get in
a hurry you will ruin the threads. That leaves you to redrill and tap to a bigger screw. Main thing
is don't get in a hurry.

Well....that was easier than I thought. I let the screw soak for a couple of days in a drop of WD-40, took a small punch and threw up a burr on the busted screw, gave it a tap to the left and it started straightaway. Now I have to find a replacement screw: they're ( the Yankee) not the same thread as the Lyman.
Thanks, all!

Most times the prick punch and small hammer does the trick. The soak in penetrating oil loosens it up frees any crud. the light tapping gives the vibration and force to walk it out once up 1/8" or so pliers can be used to walk it the rest of the way out. Its the head of the bolt that tightens the thread ( unless the thread is bottomed out or a interference fit) and when the bolt breaks the tension is released with the head gone. Leaving a thread that's fairly easy to remove. In reality a dull prick punch works better for this also.

Glad it worked out. Have done the punch and tap removal before also. Beats the snot out of collapsing the bolt into a hole drilled in the middle of it.

If an EZ out bottoms out in the hole you drill it will almost certainly snap. Takes about 1 heart beat to happen. Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut a slot for a screw driver can work well. Especially after some WD40 or Kroil or other break free rust busting lubricants. Heat and quench at bolt with those penetrating oils can help too. The lubricant "follows" the heat in along the bolt or nut threads as the lubricant is applied and reduces the surface temperature.

Je suis CharlieScrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

I usually forget about such things, but.....like a bolt out of the blue, it hit me. On a thread (Cast Boolits.com)that I came across lately, there it was ..... a test of penetrating oils , kroil, WD40, Goof off, several other store bought ones, and a home made one of 1/2 Acetone and 1/2 Transmission Fluid, and guess which one won? The home made one.

Like all these good posts with information for removing broken screws. Like letting the penetrating oil chase the heat on the threads and cooling threads at the same time.. Yeah. Worked on Convair 240s in Harlingen Texas, 1959. Salty conditions caused screws to be hard to remove. I learned to use a small size speed handle and to place the screwdriver tip in the 10/32 countersunk screw and rock it back and forth lightly and transition to more torque. Lots of screws would "break as you tightened the screw, then would come out easily . Some screws would not budge, then use the prick punch and hammer. Sometimes the rivet gun set at 4 on a ten dial with a square headed 90 degree Phillips #3 tip and give it a pretty good 3 second hit while turning the tool worked. Congratulations Krag 1902 getting that screw out. Makes one feel a little better, huh.