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Hello From Nova
Scotia: 400 Years Of History At Port-Royal

Following my introduction to the quaint and
historic town of Annapolis Royal I drove about 10
kilometers out of town across the causeway on the north
shore of the Annapolis River and arrived in one of the
most historic locations in north-eastern North America.
Port-Royal is a reconstruction of a settlement – a
“Habitation” of French settlers founded in 1605 by Sieur
de Mons and Samuel de Champlain and one of the earliest
successful European settlement attempts in North
Americ...

Nova Scotia, Canada, History, French,
Garrison House, Annapolis

Following my
introduction to the quaint and historic town of
Annapolis Royal I drove about 10 kilometers out of town
across the causeway on the north shore of the Annapolis
River and arrived in one of the most historic locations
in north-eastern North America. Port-Royal is a
reconstruction of a settlement – a “Habitation” of
French settlers founded in 1605 by Sieur de Mons and
Samuel de Champlain and one of the earliest successful
European settlement attempts in North America. The
settlement existed until 1613 when it was burned to the
ground by Captain Samuel Argall of Virginia.

My
expert guide for this introduction to early French life
in Canada was Wayne Melanson, a ninth generation Acadian
and twin brother of Alan Melanson who I had already met
at Fort Anne during my initial discoveries of Annapolis
Royal. Interestingly, on my drive to Port Royal I
noticed a sign saying “Melanson Settlement”, a National
Historic Site of Canada which indeed refers to the
forefathers of today’s Melanson family. When I connected
with Alan and Wayne Melanson, I realized that I had
tapped into a piece of living history and was excited to
learn more about their story.

Charles Melanson,
the forefather of today’s Melanson family, had come to
today’s Annapolis River area with his wife Marie Dugas
in about 1664 and settled along the north shore of the
river. The Melanson Settlement was an agricultural
community employing the Acadian dykeland farming
techniques that were unique in the colonies. In 1755
Charles' son Ambroise and his family were deported from
the Annapolis area by the English as part of the Great
Expulsion (“le grand derangement”) once this area
changed from French to British ownership. Wayne
explained that six men, including Ambroise's son-in-law
Pierre Bellieveau initiated a mutiny on the boat and
overpowered the crew. Pierre's son Amand returned to
settle in the Clare region in southwestern Nova Scotia.

To this day, some descendants of Charles Melanson
are still living right near the original homestead that
he founded in the 17th century. Wayne commented that
despite this tragic past, people have survived and
preserved their cultural identity, a testament to human
fortitude and tenacity in the face of adversity. It was
amazing to me that after this great diaspora of Acadian
settlers in the 18th century two ninth-generation
Acadian twin brothers would live and work right next to
their ancestors’ original settlement, both bringing
history to life for the area's visitors.

Wayne is
a presentation supervisor with Parks Canada, the federal
agency in charge of many of Canada’s most significant
heritage sites, and his appearance reflects the style of
dress of early French settlers in the area. He explained
to me that today he was dressed in the style of working
class people with a simple shirt and pants, covered by a
heavy woolen cape against the cold. On his feet he was
wearing wooden clogs, a popular piece of footwear at the
time.

We entered the habitation through the
wooden gate that features the coat of arms of Henri IV,
King of France in 1605 when the original habitation
would have been built. The coats of arms of the two
governors, Sieur de Mons and Sieur de Poutrincourt, are
also represented above the doorway.

The entire
Port-Royal complex consists of six attached wooden
buildings located around a central courtyard. The
buildings were reconstructed from 1939 to 1940 and are a
historically accurate replica of the original
habitation. This project was a result of the efforts of
Harriet Taber Richardson of Cambridge, Massachusetts who
raised funds to bring in a Harvard-educated archeologist
for the authentic reconstruction of this early French
settlement.

The Port-Royal Habitation is an
excellent example illustrating the lifestyle and
hardships of the early French settlers and fur traders
that settled in the eastern part of Canada. Wayne
explained that the original settlement held about 30
craftsmen and 15 gentlemen, including a surgeon, a
lawyer and a ship’s pilot. No women were residing in
Port-Royal.

We started our walk at the forge
where metal goods were produced on site. The blacksmith
was an important member of the community because he
produced the hardware needed for the upkeep of the
habitation. He also fabricated goods for trade with the
Mi’kmaq First Nations People which contributed directly
to the settlements financial well-being.

The
kitchen next door was a place where geese, rabbits and
other interesting dishes would be prepared and fresh
bread would be baked. The adjacent Common Room was
decked out in 17th century style with pewter tableware
and was the location of frequent dinners of the French
settlers and Mi’kmaq natives. The “Order of Good Cheer”
was the first European social club, founded to while
away the long dark winter nights. Prominent members of
the colony took turns preparing a feast, arranging
entertainment and preparing delicacies such as
fricasseed beaver tail and boiled moose nose.

Despite the harsh conditions at the early settlement,
culture was present at Port-Royal. A Parisian lawyer by
the name of Marc Lescarbot, spent the winter of
1606-1607 at the Habitation and wrote a play called “The
Theatre of Neptune” which was first performed in
November of 1606. He also chronicled life in the
habitation and his records provide great insight into
the daily challenges of early French settlers.

Wayne then introduced me to the second-story dormitory
that at the time would have held about 30 craftsmen,
including joiners, carpenters, masons, stonecutters,
locksmiths and iron workers. These men were required to
work three hours a day at their trade and could use the
rest of their time to go fishing, hunting or tend their
gardens. A foot-powered spring pole lathe was made to
turn wood and create objects such as spindles, goblets
and candlesticks. Wayne gave me a demonstration of this
contraption and the functionality of this human-powered
piece of equipment was astounding.

The apothecary
next door was in charge of ensuring the health of the
early settlers. Various herbs would be crushed with a
pestle and mortar to provide remedies for common health
problems. This was a harsh environment and many of the
original inhabitants did not survive the harsh winters.

Several gentlemen’s quarters follow, each equipped
with bunk beds and draw curtains for privacy. Generally
each room was inhabited by two to four gentlemen and
equipped with a table, chair, wardrobe, a large bench
and a fireplace. The largest sleeping quarters are those
of the Governor which are decorated with a smoked moose
hide, artwork originally produced by the Mi’kmaq natives
which was much admired by the French settlers. Wayne
explained that moose hide would often be worn to protect
against the cold. The most effective way was to wear the
hairy side on the inside with the smooth part facing
outside.

The next building holds the fur storage
area where furs from various animals are displayed,
including beaver, silver fox, bobcat, raccoon, timber
wolf, otter and lynx furs. Wayne informed me that beaver
fur was the most valuable fur since there was a big
craze for beaver fur hats at the European royal courts.
Essentially the entire early settlement of Canada was a
result of Europe’s fashion hunger for beaver fur. Rabbit
fur was also used to make hats, but in order to remove
the keratin from the hair, mercury had to be used which
had severe effects on the mental health of the craftsmen
producing the hats. Wayne explained that this is where
the expression “mad as a hatter” comes from.

When
we entered the wine cellar, my expert guide pointed out
that every man who resided here received 1.5 pints
(about 1 litre) of wine a day. Wine was considered much
healthier since much of the water in the early
communities was polluted due to poor sanitary
conditions. People would toss their slob buckets into
the rivers, effectively contaminating their own drinking
water supply.

Next door we entered the trading
room which was a room were barter transactions for basic
goods would take place. In a loft upstairs a Mi’kmaq
canoe as well as an original coffin is on display. The
steep roof would help the snow slide off during the long
harsh winters. Wayne then took me outside to the Cannon
Platform from where there is a great view over the
Annapolis River. Any intruder approaching the area could
easily be seen from this platform.

Outside the
Habitation is a monument honouring Membertou, one of the
great Mi’kmaq chiefs who helped the French adapt and
survive in Acadia who together with his family was
baptized in 1610. I thanked Wayne Melanson for his great
introduction to Port-Royal, this early place of French
history. On an increasingly cloudy day I made my way
back to Annapolis Royal, stopping to take some pictures
of a few beautiful house in Granville Ferry, the town
located directly across from Annapolis Royal. Prior to
an earlier bridge and today’s causeway, Granville Ferry
was indeed the location of a ferry service that would
connect both towns by ship.

Shortly after I
arrived back in Annapolis Royal and was more than ready
for a tasty dinner. And I would have a chance to see
history brought to life in my much anticipated Garrison
Graveyard Tour, to be presented by Alan Melanson, the
other member of this duo of historic experts.

Hello From Nova
Scotia: A Drive Along The Lighthouse Trail From Yarmouth
To Shelburne

My quick one-night stopover in Yarmouth had provided me
with great insight into local history and architecture.
In an interview with two local hospitality entrepreneurs
I also learned about the heritage tourism opportunities
in southwestern Nova Scotia. Barely an hour into the
drive I unintentionally orchestrated my own travel
adventure by actually driving into the ditch and a few
local residents immediately rescued me from my
predicament.

After all this excitement I was b...

Lighthouse trail, Shelburne, Yarmouth, Canada

My quick one-night stopover in Yarmouth had provided
me with great insight into local history and
architecture. In an interview with two local hospitality
entrepreneurs I also learned about the heritage tourism
opportunities in southwestern Nova Scotia. Barely an
hour into the drive I unintentionally orchestrated my
own travel adventure by actually driving into the ditch
and a few local residents immediately rescued me from my
predicament.

After all this excitement I was back
on the road and enjoying my drive eastwards. The weather
improved from a cool drizzle to overcast skies, and it
was looking like I might even get some blue skies later
today. The Lighthouse Trail hugs the southern Nova
Scotia shoreline while Highway 103 pursues a straighter
trajectory inland. In order to make it on time to my
stop in Shelburne and to today’s final destination of
Lunenburg, I followed the inland route with the
occasional side-trip to the waterfront.

Straight
south from Yarmouth is a peninsula with a town called
Wedeport at the end. This is the location of la
Butte-de-la-Croix, a site that commemorates the first
mass after the return of the Acadians, held in 1769.
Acadians were expelled in several waves by the English
between 1755 and 1763 and deported to numerous
destinations across eastern North America, the Caribbean
and even back to France during an extended period of
ethnic cleansing. Some of the French Acadian settlers
returned to Nova Scotia, and the Wedgeport location in
particular is a symbol of Acadian courage and
perseverance.

East of Wedgeport are the Tusket
Islands, about 365 islands, peninsulas, inlets and bays
that make up an intended coastline. The Bay of Fundy’s
tides have a big impact on this area, and salt water
travels 24 km kilometers (15 miles) upriver on tides
that are about 4 metres (13 feet high). The islands vary
in size from a few meters to half a kilometer in length.
This area was first settled by Acadian French settlers
and to this day French dialects and customs survive in
this area. Today there are thousands of “shanties”,
small tiny cottages, while in the past this area also
featured large fish factories and lobster canneries. Sea
kayakers looking for bird-watching and island hopping
opportunities love this area.

The Pubnico region
comprises three different sections: West Pubnico, with
an almost exclusively French-speaking population,
Pubnico proper with primarily Anglophone residents, and
East Pubnico, again occupied mostly by French speakers.
French Acadian settlements go back to about 1614. Today,
the local population mostly makes a living from the
fishing industry, which includes first and foremost
lobster, scallops, herring, haddock and cod. Not only is
Pubnico considered to be the oldest village which, in
Acadia, is still occupied by the Acadians, but it is
also the oldest village in Canada still occupied by the
descendants of its founder. Since February of 2005
renewable energy is being produced at Pubnico Point. 17
interconnected wind turbines generate about 100 GWh a
year.

Further east along the shoreline is Cape
Sable Island, the most southerly point in Atlantic
Canada. This small, low sandy island is the location of
about 1800 recorded shipwrecks since 1676. It took until
1861 for the first light house to be constructed on
Sable Island, and in 1876 a steam-whistle fog alarm was
added. Even since then ships continue to run aground in
this foggy, harsh marine environment, but the loss of
life has been low.

The next major town along
Highway 103 is Barrington which also claims to be the
Lobster Capital of Canada. The area around Barrington
features a variety of fishing villages, museums and
heritage buildings. Not far outside Barrington a major
mystery awaits: just southwest of the town is the Shag
Harbour UFO sighting area, location of a purported UFO
crash on October 4, 1967. At least eleven people
reported seeing a low-flying lit object heading towards
the harbour, accompanied by a whistling and then a
crashing sound when the object hit the water. A search
and rescue operation did not turn up any evidence of a
crash, and no aircraft were reported missing. A
secretive military expedition discovered some foam-like
debris, and one military witness stated that there were
actually two objects, one possibly trying to assist the
other. To this day the Shah Harbour UFO Crash is an
unsolved mystery.

The town of Barrington itself
features a recently constructed walking trail along the
bay. The Barrington Woolen Mill, dating back to 1882,
was an active mill until 1962 when it ceased production
and became a museum in 1968. Wool sheared from sheep who
were grazed on the various surrounding islands were
processed in this turbine-driven mill that saved Nova
Scotian women endless time in terms of washing, spinning
and weaving wool at home.

My drive continued
inland towards Shelburne, my next destination. Shelburne
was first settled in the spring of 1783 when 5000
settlers, United Empire Loyalists, arrived here from the
middle colonies in America. By 1784, the town was the
fourth largest in all of North America, larger than
Halifax, Montreal or Quebec City. Fishing, shipbuilding
and the lumber industry formed the economic mainstays of
the area. Many descendants of these Loyalists still live
in the area today.

Black Loyalists also settled
in this area when the Royal Governor of Virginia awarded
freedom to any slave who would escape from a rebel slave
master and fight alongside the British Loyalists. More
than 300 Blacks joined the Loyalist forces and formed
the Ethiopian Regiment. In total about 100,000 slaves
took refuge behind British lines.

In 1782 when
Americans were winning the war, the British prepared to
depart. During this time some Blacks were recaptured
while others resettled in Florida, the West Indies and
Canada (or rather British North America, as it was
called at the time). The largest group of Black
settlers, about 3500 people, were transported to Nova
Scotia and New Brunswick. Birchtown, just a few
kilometers west of Shelburne, became the largest
settlement of free Blacks outside of Africa. However, of
649 families only 184 received the promised crown land
grants.

The Black Loyalist Heritage Society
Museum in Birchtown commemorates the Black Loyalist
settlers who founded the largest free Black settlement
in all of North America. Unfortunately the museum was
closed when I travelled through the area. However, I did
have a chance to explore some of the Shelburne area's
other museums. This small town has a large museum
complex on the waterfront which forms one of the best
natural harbours in the world. I drove down on Main
Street which features Victorian architecture as well as
a large Romanesque Revival building constructed in 1908
from local granite which used to be the Post Office and
Customs House. Coming down Ann Street I noticed a well
that was located right in the middle of the road, an
example of the community wells that were typical in this
area.

Then I headed down to Dock Street on the
Waterfront, formerly the centre of Shelburne’s
commercial activity. I was immediately struck by a large
wooden structure, dating back to 1902 which used to be
the store and warehouse of George A. Cox, a prominent
merchant who built his own vessels. Tucked in behind it
is Guild Hall, a set from the move “A Scarlett Letter”.
This building was constructed to reflect 17th century
architecture.

Along the waterfront is the John C.
Williams Dory Shop, a working museum that demonstrates
the craft of dory building. Dories were small wooden
fishing boats that were very popular in the around the
turn of the 20th century and were purchased by Nova
Scotian and American fishing captains. This shop dates
back to 1880, and in its heyday five to seven men
produced 350 dories a year.

On the other side of
the street is the restored Ross-Thomson House and Store.
George and Robert Ross were merchants, trading pine
boards, codfish and pickled herrings for salt, tobacco,
molasses and dry goods. The store actually closed in the
1880s, was restored to its 1820s condition and today
operates as a museum. I took a quick tour through the
Ross-Thomson House which provides a good idea of the
living conditions of the early Loyalist settlers.

Right in this complex is the Shelburne County Museum
which houses one of the oldest fire pumpers in all of
North America. It also features exhibits on shipbuilding
and local Loyalist history. History buffs can access
newspapers and court records from the 18th to the 20th
century, all saved on microfilm, and genealogy records
of Shelburne County families are also available.

Shelburne is a very scenic town with numerous unusual
heritage buildings located on the waterfront and on
various other streets leading up from the water. I wish
I had had a bit more time to explore this town, but my
schedule was getting tight. I wanted to continue on
eastwards along the Lighthouse Trail to make sure I
arrived before sunset so I would be able to see the town
of Lunenburg before dark, one of Nova Scotia’s favourite
destinations.

Hello From Nova
Scotia: A Ferry Trip To Dartmouth And Saying Goodbye To
Halifax

My
visit to Pier 21 and especially my encounter with Robert
Vandekieft, an 89-year old immigrant who first arrived
in Canada at Pier 21 more than 52 years ago, were a real
highlight of my time in Halifax. Stefani Angelopoulos,
Communications Manager for Pier 21, had kindly taken me
on a tour of Canada’s Immigration Museum and when we
were finished, we both embarked on a walk along Halifax’
Harbourwalk since we were both headed to Dartmouth, a
formerly independent city, and no...

Dartmouth,
Halifax, Canada, kayaks, Annapolis Valley

My
visit to Pier 21 and especially my encounter with Robert
Vandekieft, an 89-year old immigrant who first arrived
in Canada at Pier 21 more than 52 years ago, were a real
highlight of my time in Halifax. Stefani Angelopoulos,
Communications Manager for Pier 21, had kindly taken me
on a tour of Canada’s Immigration Museum and when we
were finished, we both embarked on a walk along Halifax’
Harbourwalk since we were both headed to Dartmouth, a
formerly independent city, and now part of the Halifax
Regional Municipality, located across the harbour from
downtown Halifax.

Stefani and I had a very
interesting conversation and I found out that Stefani’s
father had come through Pier 21 himself as an immigrant
from Greece. Stefani has extensive experience with
international student exchanges and volunteer
assignments, so naturally I requested her to participate
in an interview with me. As a local Dartmouth resident,
she also gave me a bit of information about the area.
She explained that Dartmouth’ nickname is “City of
Lakes” because there are 23 lakes within Dartmouth
proper. Stefani also mentioned a number of beaches that
are located in the area that I would like to visit next
time I travel to Halifax.

Dartmouth’ history
dates back more than 250 years: in 1750 the sailing ship
Alderney brought 151 immigrants to the Halifax area and
it was decided that they would settle the area east of
the Halifax harbour. Dartmouth was incorporated as a
town in 1873 and the town hall was built four years
later. In 1955 a permanent link to Halifax was built in
the form of the Angus L. MacDonald Bridge, named after a
former premier of Nova Scotia. This fixed link resulted
in a huge residential and commercial construction boom.
Dartmouth expanded even more after the Murray MacKay
Bridge opened in 1970.

Today, Dartmouth is home
to several Canadian Armed Forces Installations including
CFB (Canadian Forces Base) Shearwater. It is also the
backdrop to Canada’s popular “Trailer Park Boys”
television show which is set in a fictional Dartmouth
trailer park and filmed locally in the surrounding
areas.

For a $2 investment, the ferry ride
between the two cities is a great investment because it
gives you a great view of downtown Halifax’ skyline. The
Halifax ferry service is actually the oldest salt water
ferry service in North America – the first crossings
took place in 1752. Having arrived at the Ferry Terminal
Building on the other side of the harbour, Stefani and I
said goodbye, and I embarked on my self-guided Dartmouth
Walking Tour. The Ferry Terminal Building also holds the
Visitor Information Centre, so convenient access to
brochures and travel information is ensured.

Right outside the ferry building is Ferry Terminal Park,
a public green space with a perfect view of downtown
Halifax. I strolled towards the World Peace Pavilion, a
structure built for the 1995 G-7 Economic summit that
contains stones and bricks that were donated by more
than 70 countries, resting on a bed of Nova Scotian
sand.

With interest I noticed that the United
States had donated rubble from a dismantled nuclear
missile silo, while Canada had donated a 150 kg block of
Nepean granite, a paving stone used in Canada and
throughout the world, also used for paving the Grande
Esplanade of Confederation Boulevard. Even more
interestingly, Austria, my birth country, had donated a
brick from the infamous Mauthausen Concentration Camp.
The collection of stones indeed offers a very
fascinating selective glimpse at world history.

From there I walked southwards to Canal Street which
features the entrance of the Shubenacadie Canal, a
waterway whose construction started in 1826 to link the
Halifax Harbour area with the agricultural, timber and
coal producing areas of the Bay of Fundy and the
Annapolis Valley.

The project was fraught with
problems and stopped due to the developers’ bankruptcy
in 1831. It was picked up again in 1854 and finally
completed in 1861. Unfortunately competition with the
emerging railway network ruined the canal system; in
addition many railway bridges across the canal were
built too low for steamers, so shortly after its
construction the Shubenacadie Canal system was abandoned
for the most part. Efforts have been made recently to
restore portions of the original canal route for
pleasure boaters, although highway overpasses have
resulted in blocking the canal to larger vessel. Kayaks
and rowboats are still able to navigate a portion of the
Shubenacadie Canal.

I continued my walk through
pleasant well-kept neighbourhoods, past the First
Baptist Church. An original church was built here in
1843, but it was destroyed during the 1917 Halifax
Explosion, and the new church dates from 1922. From
there I reached Sullivan’s Pond, a small artificial lake
that was part of the Shubenacadie Canal system. This
pond was the first water body in the canal system
linking Halifax to the Bay of Fundy, and it was
constructed as a holding pond for southbound vessels
heading towards the Halifax Harbour.

A few
minutes further south I reached Lake Banook, a small
freshwater lake that holds a 1 km long flat-water
paddling course. It is the site of many rowing and
paddling competition and has hosted the World Junior
Canoe Championships in 1989, the Senior World
Championship in 1997 and the World Marathon
Championships. Coming up in 2009, Lake Banook will host
the World Senior Canoe Championships. It is a very
popular recreation area for local residents.

From
Lake Banook I turned around and walked northwards again
through some of the residential streets in Dartmouth. I
passed by two historic cemeteries: St. Peter’s Cemetery
and Christ Church Cemetery before I arrived again in the
areas surrounding the Ferry Terminal Building. With the
sun low on the horizon, I started to make my way back to
the other side of the bay and a few minutes later I
arrived in downtown Halifax.

To get back to my
hotel I walked through Historic Properties, a collection
of 19th century warehouses that have been converted into
a broad range of shops and restaurants. Historic
Properties is also a popular spot for wedding
photography, and as I was walking through the complex, I
saw a wedding party posing for various shots against
this historic backdrop.

Just up on Duke Street I
passed by a pedestrian mall: Granville Mall features a
large variety of pubs and is located right next to the
Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University. One of
the pub’s patios was packed with people, and loud music
announced that everyone was having a great time.

I took a brief rest at my hotel and used the convenient
in-room Internet connection. There was so much to still
see and do here in Halifax, but my time was short and I
was rather exhausted from a very long day of discoveries
that included a three-hour city tour and a visit to the
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, followed by a brief
lunch and a walk along Harbourwalk to Pier 21, Canada’s
immigration museum. And after my almost two hour long
walking tour of Dartmouth I was in dire need of rest, so
I decided to simply head downstairs and eat in the Stone
Street Café, one of the restaurants located in the Delta
Barrington Hotel.

My initial hunger was quenched
by an absolutely delicious broccoli cheese soup,
accompanied by freshly baked specialty breads such as
apricot and multigrain bread with regular butter and red
pepper butter, a tasty start to a nice meal. I continued
with a very filling and tasty plate of Pescara Pasta
which was composed of sautéed wild mushrooms, sun dried
tomatoes and grana padano cheese.

After this
delicious meal I retreated upstairs to the comfort of my
hotel room, packed my bags and watched a bit of TV,
resting up for my early morning departure tomorrow. I
reflected back on the past five action packed days in
Nova Scotia and how much I had seen.

And I
realized how much I had not seen, that I had literally
just scratched the surface of a beautiful province, Nova
Scotia, and a fascinating city, Halifax.