The Hakas will do it all. But to go simpler/lighter, and retain foldability of the Amas, (at least forward) a small batwing is a very comfortable option. I would use it for light duty solo sailing or to supplement the tramps with 2 aboard.

OK, I'll have a fiddle and see if I can make a batwing out of PVC pipe, just for the record. You all but had me convinced wood was a better material.

NOHUHU wrote:

The new vertical rudder has me on edge too, and is one reason I'm going with the upright Thule set and go saddles. Hoping that never having to flip the hull on my new vehicle will keep me out of trouble.

Flipping it on the car is no problem, 'cause it's up off the ground. It's flipping it on the ground that worries me, where it can catch and cop the full force of the boat rolling over.

NOHUHU wrote:

I believe you can cheat and cleat the rudder in any position now, using the dual lines... yes? Or is the rudder line too short for this to work with the existing 1 1/2 cleats?

Well I'm new to this rudder, but as far as I can see, if I pull the up-line, with the boat upright, I can get the rudder to horizontal, but there's no way I can hold it there without continuing to hold onto the up-line. Am I missing something?

PS: Speaking of pimping the boat, the ultimate pimp which I would like to do is to re-jig the akas and crossbars so that the amas raised up out of the water when folded forward or backward, so that the boat could be pedalled at near-Adventure hull speeds when the wind dropped. I now have a set of old corroded crossbars and akas and I am toying with the idea of taking them to an aluminium fabricator and having them altered, depending on the cost. I would love to bolt them onto the new hull for a while, just to see how it performed.

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Last edited by chrisj on Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

There should be a small jam cleat on your port side, by your leg to lock the rudder in the up position. If the line still reaches it with the rudder in the full horizontal position, then you can use the combination of up /down cleats to temporarily hold that position.

If not, maybe tweaking the lines or adding another jam cleat or microcam could accomplish this...

There should be a small jam cleat on your port side, by your leg to lock the rudder in the up position. If the line still reaches it with the rudder in the full horizontal position, then you can use the combination of up /down cleats to temporarily hold that position.

Oops, I hadn't noticed that . Yes, you're right and it does hold the rudder horizontal. Unfortunately the rudder still flops to the side when I roll the boat. If I can't roll the boat over before I put it on the car, I may have to rethink carrying it inverted - not keen to dump a mast-well full of salt water on the car each time I load the boat.The other thing about the rudder - the lines squeak like overtightened guitar strings whenever I move the rudder lever. Is that normal?I hate to be churlish, after Hobie replaced my cracked hull for free, but I was perfectly happy with the old T&S rudder, as long as I kept it cleated down.

The other thing about the rudder - the lines squeak like overtightened guitar strings whenever I move the rudder lever. Is that normal?I hate to be churlish, after Hobie replaced my cracked hull for free, but I was perfectly happy with the old T&S rudder, as long as I kept it cleated down.

Dunno Chris. Mine don't but it just sounds like a knot catching on one of the guides.You'll love the rudder. Far better design and a lot more responsive.

I really liked the clean setup chrisj did using the ram parts, but I set out to find a better pole. I think I have found the perfect solution. Walking down the camping aisle at Academy, I spotted this little gem for $13. It is a 54" telescoping trekking pole.

I removed the rubber base cap, and cut ~2" off the end using a jigsaw. It is a perfect fit in the ram 1/2" pipe clevis. I put a light layer of goop and secured the screw and it is rock solid. I inserted 4 stainless washers in the ram fitting so the ball floats freely but cannot come out when the fitting is screwed down tight. The fully retracted length is a short 27" for easy stowing. It works a treat from any position on either haka.

Here is my new TI Papaya color matched adjustable aluminium tiller arm . The lenght is adjustable fron 30 to 70 inches. I made the aluminium ball on my lathe and will screw on the TI rudder lever. The ball link is robotic stuff and quick released. It is plated. The long screw will be cut to lenght when i get my TI so i will know how deep is the handle insert Picture is taken on my future spray skirts( Thanks to Kayaking Bob for the pattern )

_________________2013 Papaya TI, on order for May ........Come on summer...;0)

It might be possible that would happen Nohuhu. If it does, i will remove the ball and make an extension forward to get more lever action and fix my little ball link on that extension.. Filling up the inside of handle with epoxy and microballoons would add stiffness to it i guess. Is it hollow ???Funny, i am doing all those parts without the yak in my yard Well, with all the good information on this forum, this way, i will get more sailing time when heat come down here.. still around 2 Celsius today. Richard

_________________2013 Papaya TI, on order for May ........Come on summer...;0)