Some day I'll learn. Until then, I'll be begging for more help. This time, I'm working on the power door mirror switch to my '97 Silverado. It's a fairly simple switch to get out, so that's not the issue, well, maybe. I bought a new switch (around $40 at Napa-- not outrageous but too pricy to toss if I don't have to), and pushed the new one back into the door panel without checking to verify correct operation. Mistake #1. It only worked for moving either mirror to the right. Wouldn't go up, down, or to the left on either door. Right turn only, Clyde. When I went to remove the new one to recheck my wiring to it and for a correct "snap" connection, I broke one of the three snap connectors that hold it all together.

Mistake #2 came when I looked at both switches and thought, "Hmmm, I can make one good switch from the 2 bad ones." Does anybody else know that there's 19 pieces to a power door switch?? I now have one switch that will work in every direction (and on both mirrors--all be it right side coming back in rather slowly) except, you guessed it, right on either mirror. I can live with that if I have to, I guess.

Now, here's where I really need the help. On the inside of the switch are a pair of very tiny LED type light bulbs. I have one that lights up, and the other will not. At all. The only time that the one that works lights up is when the mirror hits the outermost range of operation (in any direction). So, is my problem in my switch rework, or does it just sound like the mirrors have been adjusted too far by hand and I just need to re-center them before hooking the switch back in? For now, I'll keep playing with the switch, but I'd appreciate any feedback you guys can give me.

What you perceive as Two LED's is actually an LED light source and an optical Sensor . Not actually Seeing the unit, I suspect the opto Isolator is used to break the motor drive circuit when the mirror (or other limit device ) breaks the beam between the two , so that the mirror can not drive past a measured stop.

IF out of adjustment , the beam may ALSO be the reason it would only drive right not up/Down/or left..

The principle is the same as a light beam that rings a "Bell" when you walk into a store..your body breaks the beam, and fires a relay that rings the bell..In this case, the beam turns a Device OFF, instead of ON.

You MAY need another mirror. ($$$.$$$) If it won't "Right" itself or adjust.

Ahh, but then the question logically (for me to ask anyway) is why did the new one only work going to the right for either mirror, and then ever direction but right after I "rebuilt" the switch? I kept toying with it, and now it only works to the right and down on both mirrors. Not exactly sure what I did, I did eventually get frustrated enough to buy another new switch. Which I will check for correct function before I totally install it. Thanks again, Doc.

Maybe because when the limit beam is broken (or thinks something is between it and the isolator) It will only apply power in the other direction until the beam is not covered again..

If you rebuilt the switch, it may be a problem still, so if you have a new one, install it first.

If it still only drives to the right then look at the isolator. That may be set up so that when the mirror reaches full left limit, the only power (regardless of switch position) that can be applied is right.. (like a power window, once it reaches the full up position, the limit will only allow it to go down, not up, until the limit switch/beam is reset.)

I got the new switch, and both mirrors work, and in all directions. It's just great having them work the way GM intended them to. Now if only I can figure out why my oil pressure gauge fluctuates....

In a while, Chet.

Doc Here,

uhhhh..Chet...

Did you buy this DD of EBAY..under electrical nightmares column??

Seems like it's having it's share of problems..

Check your Gauge and Dash CLUSTER grounds, be sure the, cluster is properly bonded to the body, and the body to the frame/Block/Battery.

Check your sender wire for an intermittent condition, especially as the "Engine Flexes" under throttle, you may need engine grounds.

Clean and burnish the terminals on the gauge, power/ground/and sender to the laminate card. and the laminate card to the connector.

You MAY have an intermittent sender, rare but does happen.

IF it's mechanical, it may be a spec of crud stuck in the gauge/line, If it's inside the gauge, there's not much you can do about that, if it's in the line, or the line is kinked, that's an easy fix. If not, the alternative is not too pretty..

No, Doc, I didn't buy it off of Ebay. Local dealer lot. So far, I think I've spent twice what I paid for it on parts to keep it running. Actually, I was sorta let down when the mirrors worked with the new switch. My parts guys just love this truck. I avoided them for a month once, and when I returned, they thought I'd sold it....

I am leaning towards just leaving it to flutter until I need to change a dash light, and then check it out. No need to pull it apart twice in a week..

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