Uncle Jimi; i build a tunnel. I'll cover that in this thread as well.
Nebo49. The important measurement is the wheelbase. Should be 117". The 95 frame will work. On rear ends, 4x4 S10 is the easiest swap. They are usually 3.42 ratio, and work nicely with a 700r4.

Sorry it's been awhile. I was 4 wheeling my way across the mid-west. I just finished up the promised motor mounts today. I also managed to mock up a 350, without cutting the firewall, using stock Malibu exhaust manifolds, and a mechanical fuel pump.

First I cut some 1" O.D. 11ga tube to fit inside the S10 4.3 motor mounts (I put new ones on every build). Then 1/2" x 4" bolts and lock nuts. I bolt the tube on the motor mount, then mock the motor up where I'm happy. Next I use posterboard to template my "legs". Then I trace them on 1/4" sheet, and cut them out. Once it's all mocked up and I'm happy with the placement, I tack them in (several places) and pull the driveline to seam weld the mounts.

I bought a '50 1 ton a couple weeks ago. I have been looking at everyones build of these trucks trying to figure out which way to go. I wanted to leave it stock, but it does nothing for me. These s-10 swaps are bad a$$ and I love the look. I was poking around a freinds last night a found a short bed frame,4cly,5sp for $200. I am know joining the swap team. This article is great. I don't think I would tackle this project without this board and these tech articles.

Thank you for such a great article. I am following every step of the way.

Here's a tip for those who are using the old school 350... If your donor vehicle has a 4.3, you can swap all the accessory drive stuff, and run a serpentine belt. You will need to pull the crank pulley and water pump as well (reverse drive pump). Here's some pics, I just set up on a mid 70's 350 for a customer.

Lets spend a little time on steering columns tonight. A lot of guys try to save a buck by re-using the stock S10 column. That works, but IMHO, they look like dookie... There's a lot of crap hanging below the column (pic 1), and keys belong in the dash on an old truck. But if that's what your build calls for, here's how I go about setting an S10 column up for a swap.

First I open the firewall hole about 2" more to the left (covered earlier). Then I make a poster board template (2 pieces) to fit over the column and match the angle of the toeboard/firewall. Trace it on sheetmetal, then cut it out. Next I make a small "drop bracket" for the column. I make the bracket so that it uses the same bolts as the pedal assembly to attach it. (pic 2 and 3)

Then I attach the drop bracket to the dash, and hold the column in position while I tack weld the backside. Once that's done, the lower bracket (to firewall) gets positioned and tacked. Then I pull the whole thing out, and seam the backsides so it doesn't show. (pic 4).

When it's all done, your drop bracket shouldn't even be visible. (pic 5)

I think a lot better way to go is a brand new column from Gearhead Enterprises (Ebay). All the wiring is tucked into the column, and looks much cleaner installed. I've gotten them in plain steel and/or chrome, column shifted or not. All cost around $170-180 shipped. Installation is the same for them.

If you are using a column mounted shifter, the only shift rod I use is the Lokar one. It is pricy, but works better than anything else I've tried. It is adjustable, bendable, and uses double heim joints, so it will work with a LOT of mis-alignment.

Uncle Jimi: I don't recall the brand on the gauges, but they are common 3 3/8" aftermarkets. I can cover how to convert your stock gauge pods to hold aftermarkets later as well. The best look I've seen is 5" round gauges. They fit right inside the stock bezels, and look trick.

Here's a link to an example column on ebay. I just want to be sure we all understand that I'm not endorsing any particular company, I'm just showing what I typically use. Correct length should be 32"... 30" will work, but you have to get a little creative on the firewall bracket.

Next on the list is gas pedal install. I make a pedestal for the S10 pedal. I do that so it has enough room for full travel, therefore gives you full throttle when it's near the floor. Once the pedestal is made, I position it, then tack weld it on the floor. Then I mark for my throttle cable hole in the firewall, drill it out to 3/8", and use a square file to "square the edges" so that the cable snaps in at the firewall.

Great stuff in this thread. I just bought a 49 Chevy panel. And was considering options for suspension. Can you tell me what is the best choice year wise for a donor S10 chassis?
Also do you sell the cab to frame mounts outright?

Thank you, I like using 87-91 chassis, with a 4.3L and 700R4. pre-87 didn't have a 4.3, so the 700R4's from them won't bolt up to a small block. 92 they converted to VSS, with no mechanical speedo output. Send me a PM on brackets, I've made them for several folks, but I don't usually do it that way since the running boards and bed are kind of a fab as you go thing.

Here's a bit of clarification on the Brake pedal setup. The first pic is my hen scratches, showing where I cut to make the S10 pedal assembly fit. Second pic is after I've cut the excess off. Once it's cut, you'll have to tweak the passenger side to fit the curve of the dashboard. aligning it is an eyeball thing, I just sight down the center of the gauges, and line it up with the column firewall hole (after I've cut 2 inches farther to the left). I just installed this setup today (pic 3) so it's fresh in my mind.

So, if I'm not mistaken, at this point in this thread we have a cab installed, driveline installed, suspension work completed, front fenders and core support are on, bed is on, but the cross sills are not welded yet (so it can move back and forth). Seems to me like the next step is to hang your rear fenders.

I use 2 bolts in each (for mock up) and I do not use lock nuts (until the final assembly). Once your fenders are on, you'll want to start mocking up your running boards (pic 1 and 2) I put the frame up on jackstands (for room), and use a bunch of 4x4, 2x4, 1x2 blocks and do small adjustments with carpenters shims. The length of the running board will decide the final placement of the box.

I bolt the rear to the fender, then line the front up with the front fender. Important gaps to check are the rear splash guard to the back of the cab, and the top of the board under the cab. Be sure your gap here is even from front to rear of the cab. Also, be sure that your rear tire is centered in the wheel well before you do any welding! My final check is to run a 36" level (front to rear) on the rocker (inside the door), then on the bed rail, then on the running board. The bubble should be in the same relative position for all three. This will tell you that your set up is square.

Once you are happy with your mockup on the bed and running boards. Go ahead and tack your bed cross sills to the bedside. Do several tacks on each joint though... you don't want to go through that again should a tack weld pull off!

A properly mocked up bed/running board combo should look something like this

Here's a bit of clarification on the Brake pedal setup. The first pic is my hen scratches, showing where I cut to make the S10 pedal assembly fit. Second pic is after I've cut the excess off. Once it's cut, you'll have to tweak the passenger side to fit the curve of the dashboard. aligning it is an eyeball thing, I just sight down the center of the gauges, and line it up with the column firewall hole (after I've cut 2 inches farther to the left). I just installed this setup today (pic 3) so it's fresh in my mind.

I'm wondering on the brake pedal bracket, if I recall in the s-10 it bolted to the dash with the stock stearing column through the two holes.

Do you suggest not using that stock set up? Just eyeballing mine, but seems like it should line up centered???

Also, wondering what the wheel and tire size the gray and black truck has?

Very informative & well thought out. I dig the fact that you've done this, at all, for the general garage build guy - like me.\

I've stayed away from these trucks before due to not feeling comfy about the swap. I'm feeling much better now.

My previous experience was in complete tube frame or back half round tube builds (cars). If you believe it I find it a bit EZ'r due to not having to work with constraints between a newer frame & an older body.

Again - I appreciate what you've done & will probably attempt this type build after my '64 Fairlane tube car hits the road.

Uncle Jimi; I use the stock S10 holes on the pedal bracket. I drill new holes on the underside of the pickup dash to bolt the pedal assembly through. I also use the same bolts to secure my fabricated drop bracket. Grey and black truck has 17x8's front and rear. I think the tire size was 225/50R17 front and 255/50R17 rear.

Ratty46, thank you. I've done Camaro stubs and custom triangulated 4 links as well. These are just the mainstay of my projects. Easy to accomplish, in-expensive, quick turn around. and very popular.