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that's what I did, but I don't see a noticeable difference. still haven't played with it since installation. I get done with work at 10est

dude, head over to cheel lot, or the P&C lot (somewhere where they've plowed), throw it in 4wd and try to to VERY TIGHT circles. you should feel some resistance, maybe even some hopping. if you don't flip the switch and try it that way. You SHOULD feel some relief in the tranny, almost like the car is sighing if you can't get it, i'll play with it with you when i'm back in the good ol' po-dam

dude, head over to cheel lot, or the P&C lot (somewhere where they've plowed), throw it in 4wd and try to to VERY TIGHT circles. you should feel some resistance, maybe even some hopping. if you don't flip the switch and try it that way. You SHOULD feel some relief in the tranny, almost like the car is sighing if you can't get it, i'll play with it with you when i'm back in the good ol' po-dam

as I said, my friend matt and I were both in a beer haze when we wired this up.. and I didn't solder the wires together, just twisted and heat-shrinked.. I was wondering if maybe there isn't a good connection?

as I said, my friend matt and I were both in a beer haze when we wired this up.. and I didn't solder the wires together, just twisted and heat-shrinked.. I was wondering if maybe there isn't a good connection?

would it be in AWD if the wire was just cut?

with the wire cut you're in 4wd, with the wire connected you're in AWDso, if your switch is in the 'ON' position, you will be in AWD, in the 'OFF' position you will be in 4wd. You might want to solder the connections eventually, because you don't want something happening and have it jump into 4wd on the highway/whatever. You also might be creating more resistance than the TCU is used to, and piss it off somehow.

Most Stuff, after using this mod for about a week (less maybe?) i've discovered that if you run in 4wd, and then turn it off, the NEXT time you start up the car the 'AT OIL TEMP' light will flash a few times, and turn off. And the time after that all will be back to normal. I haven't gone to check if any codes have poped up with this yet... i'll have to head over to leb. and goto an autozone and play with it while they check for codes.

with the wire cut you're in 4wd, with the wire connected you're in AWDso, if your switch is in the 'ON' position, you will be in AWD, in the 'OFF' position you will be in 4wd. You might want to solder the connections eventually, because you don't want something happening and have it jump into 4wd on the highway/whatever. You also might be creating more resistance than the TCU is used to, and piss it off somehow.

Most Stuff, after using this mod for about a week (less maybe?) i've discovered that if you run in 4wd, and then turn it off, the NEXT time you start up the car the 'AT OIL TEMP' light will flash a few times, and turn off. And the time after that all will be back to normal. I haven't gone to check if any codes have poped up with this yet... i'll have to head over to leb. and goto an autozone and play with it while they check for codes.

in one position when I start the car, the power light comes on.. the other position it does not... doesn't even seem to do anything if I flip it driving down the road (I know this isn't a good idea but I really couldn't tell if it was doing anything or not) if I can round up a soldering iron and an inverter I'll solder the wires on my break

the switch I'm using is a lighted rocker switch from ratshack without the light hooked up.. it has "power" "ground" and "load" pins.. I wired one piece of the brown wire to "ground" and the other to "load" ... because if I hooked my multimeter up to the switch with the multimeter on it's open/short function, flipping the switch caused their to be short or open circuit between "load" and "ground" pins...

false alarm, it works fine... just went out and tested it in parking lot and got some bindage... ran out of gas though lol..

and while I was doing this, what my friend said to me while we were testing is coming back.. he said that when the switch was in one position (on) the wheels (front and back) were spinning at different speeds when we floored it on this icy dirt road we tested it on... when the switch was off they were spinning at the same rate

false alarm, it works fine... just went out and tested it in parking lot and got some bindage... ran out of gas though lol..

and while I was doing this, what my friend said to me while we were testing is coming back.. he said that when the switch was in one position (on) the wheels (front and back) were spinning at different speeds when we floored it on this icy dirt road we tested it on... when the switch was off they were spinning at the same rate

Sounds like it works good! =)Now it seems that Potsdam NY is the new hot spot for 4wd 4EAT Subarus!

Ok, so i got my codes checked today (freaking fuel temp sensor...), i flipped the 4wd switch, and no new codes came up. I'm not sure if you run the 4wd, then turn it off and have them check if something will come up.. but with the switch on, and checking the CEL stuff, no codes poped up.
SOOO, that means it should pass inspection if you don't hit the switch before you go to get it inspected

History:
bought a '91 legacy 4eat 135k, blown motor and air ride susp. intalled '97 2.2, forrester struts, rear lsd. after new motor, the trans has a problem shifting from 2nd jumping into 4th, then coming back into 3rd after being lost in 4th for a few long seconds, so trans is on its way out.

Now:
151K, put in 'diff lock switch' locks tranny up tight, loves to drift and wrap out, hill climb, crawl, in short I love it. BUT after running a mudbog/logging road wrc style for anything longer than a minute or two the trans/motor starts to fall on itself, only sending power at WOT. If you try to maintian 70mph it stumbles, umbles, then finally jumps to 3rd and winds out for a bit, then goes back to stumbling, does this in every single gear, so I might just be sucking water into the airbox and pissing it off, but the motor wrapps out great, just doesnt' have midrange, feels like a lost trans. when I let the car sit overnight, everything comes back normal and drives great...

Methinks I'm cooking the trans, and drinking water so time for external trans cooler and home depot snorkle, I'm going to swap trans computers too, as far a codes are concerned the trans light is blinking on some startups and not on others, this is new,as it was alway fine until the 'switch.'

side note, I ripped off the front bumper, part of my back bumper and tore a hole in my catless exhaust b/c of this mod. He he he

Like others have said, if it aint broke, break it so you can fix it with cooler parts, planning an RX trans swap...

Most Stuff, after using this mod for about a week (less maybe?) i've discovered that if you run in 4wd, and then turn it off, the NEXT time you start up the car the 'AT OIL TEMP' light will flash a few times, and turn off. And the time after that all will be back to normal. I haven't gone to check if any codes have poped up with this yet... i'll have to head over to leb. and goto an autozone and play with it while they check for codes.

The resistors I put in eliminated the error light. In use for a year or so, and only once have I gotten the flashing 'AT OIL TEMP' light. Since it hasn't repeated, I don't know what caused it. The resistor values and locations are/were documented on the recently dead SF forum.

BTW, I think the TCM stores codes that won't be read by OBDII reader, have to use a Subaru Select Monitor.

The resistors I put in eliminated the error light. In use for a year or so, and only once have I gotten the flashing 'AT OIL TEMP' light. Since it hasn't repeated, I don't know what caused it. The resistor values and locations are/were documented on the recently dead SF forum.

BTW, I think the TCM stores codes that won't be read by OBDII reader, have to use a Subaru Select Monitor.

if i remember correctly you used a 25 ohm resistor? or was it 2 25 ohm resisters in parrell... that makes more sense...that's 12.5 ohms, which is in the TCM range. I may get around to adding those when i get around to putting the switch somewhere.. not hanging off my cd player control

You see, what you need to do in the end is make a BAD rump roast switch for it check out this baby, Green is AWD, Red is 4WD.. heh.. the funny thing about it is that the little wires (black & white, hard to see) are for the Tranny, and the larger wires (Green & Orange) are to power the LEDs I think if i can i'll get some white paint and a TINY paint brush, and pain AWD on the top under the led's and 4WD under the switch.. because down is 4wd, to get down & dirty