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Hi Mitch are you running the vdk on your GTR shocks or just the revo's? I'm interested in buying the kit as I have been having ttrouble tuning my GTR's but the hobby shop didn't think the kit would work. Thanks in advance.

CVD's (mismatched Tekno and XO-1)

I apologies in advance for the poor quality photos.

Thanks to Humayray and thedreadedend for this info they provided...because I am doing a Rally GT8 build with XO-1 Steering C Hubs Axle Carriers and Caster Blocks rear...I followed the mismatched parts of the drivetrain from Humayrays build thread.

I have mismatched the Tekno dogbone and diff output drive cup with the XO-1 stub axles and CVD rebuild kit. What was required to do achieve this was as follows:

It worked out cheaper for me to buy the whole Tekno CVD kit instead of buying just what I needed...the way I am going I have enough spares to build another Rally...I've been toying with the idea about maybe building my son Ciarán a Rally.

TKR6851X – M6 Driveshafts and Steering Blocks for Slash/Stmpd 4×4 (front, 6mm)
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=====TRA6454 Stub axle, front, 6mm (steel-splined constant-velocity driveshaft)
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Here is a comparison of the front Tekno stub axle to the XO-1. As you can see the XO-1 is longer.
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=====TKR6852X – M6 Driveshafts and Hub Carriers for Slash/Stmpd 4×4 (rear, 6mm)
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=====TRA6453 Stub axle, rear, 6mm (steel-splined constant-velocity driveshaft)
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Here is a comparison of the rear Tekno stub axle to the XO-1. As you can see the XO-1 is longer.
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=====TRA6757 Rebuild kit, steel-splined constant-velocity driveshafts...2 rebuild kits were required to complete for front and rear.
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I turned the rubber boot inside out and slipped over the ball joint of the Tekno dogbone. It was relatively easily to do.
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I applied a small amount of grease to the inside of each stub axle since this joint is a mechanical moving part that will create heat from the friction of the ball joint movement.
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And here a set of CVD's complete and ready for installation.

Diff Output Drive Cup.

I thought I would share this info...I have been doing this on quite a few of my builds where it fits.

What I have done here is put an o-ring between the Output drive cup and the diff to take up the free space and also add a bit of a seal around the bearings. This was done to all 4 diff output drives....I don't know how well it works but it is something i have been doing for some time now.

Hi Mitch are you running the vdk on your GTR shocks or just the revo's? I'm interested in buying the kit as I have been having ttrouble tuning my GTR's but the hobby shop didn't think the kit would work. Thanks in advance.

Hey mate...I am running a VDK kit in my eRevo, eSlayer Pro 4x4 and now my Rally. I am not sure why the Hobby shop said that to you.; in my experience I have found that Hobby shops don't always know everything and sometimes lead you blindly in the wrong direction.

My experience with the VDK kit has been through trial and error on my various build...What sort of issues are you having with your shocks??

In my eRevo I am running VDK #2 front/rear...valve on top to control compression with 60W shock oil.
In my eSlayer Pro 4x4 I am running VDK #3 Front and VDK #2 Rear...valve on top controlling compression with 35W shock oil.

Using the VDK pistons has given me the ability to fine tune my shocks...there is also nothing stopping me from drilling the piston hole sizes bigger if need be.

Hey mate...I am running a VDK kit in my eRevo, eSlayer Pro 4x4 and now my Rally. I am not sure why the Hobby shop said that to you.; in my experience I have found that Hobby shops don't always know everything and sometimes lead you blindly in the wrong direction.

My experience with the VDK kit has been through trial and error on my various build...What sort of issues are you having with your shocks??

In my eRevo I am running VDK #2 front/rear...valve on top to control compression with 60W shock oil.
In my eSlayer Pro 4x4 I am running VDK #3 Front and VDK #2 Rear...valve on top controlling compression with 35W shock oil.

Using the VDK pistons has given me the ability to fine tune my shocks...there is also nothing stopping me from drilling the piston hole sizes bigger if need be.

Thanks for confirming looks like I'll be placing an order for the kit.

For the driving I'm doing I'm finding the GTR's could use some additional compression. On the stock shocks I went with heavier weight fluid but felt like I got the compression I wanted but at the sacrifice of rebound. So when I saw the VDK it seemed like it would help get more compression without sacrificing rebound.

I'm interested in the vdk kit to. Thanks for sharing Mitch. I'm curious as to which WT shock oil you are happy with. The last time out I felt I need to beef my front springs and a heavier WT oil also.

G'day mate...I originally had planned to use 50W shock oil on this build, but once I had installed the VDK in the shocks with my selected piston size, I felt that 50W shock oil was to thick IMO for my Rally road build...I changed the oil out to 35W as I am wanting faster shock compression.

I am using VDK #3 Front and VDK #1 Rear as I want a slightly softer suspension in the rear. I plan to control this with the piston I have selected and spring rate while leaving the shock oil the same in the front and rear shocks. Because I am controlling rebound I am using the valve on the bottom.

My desired result is that I want my Rally to hug the road under acceleration and cornering...I am still thinking that 25W shock oil may be the way for me to go. I will fine tune this with some heavy testing.

If my rally were an offroad build then I would look at a 40W to 50W shock oil with a heavier spring for faster rebound...this may still be to heavy as the Rally is so light compared to my other trucks.

Using the VDK is noticeably different even when squeezing (compressing) the shocks by hand .

XO-1 17mm Hex Adapders

I am using the XO-1 hex adapters on my Rally build to give me the extra length in my drive train...so my overall wheel base width has increased with the offset adapters.

My initial thought of the XO-1 hex adapters...they remind me of the 6mm offset 17mm Integy hex adapters I use on my Summit. They look good and the fact that they use a hub retainer means there will be less wheel slop.

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Its a relatively easy and straight forward install...as seen in the pic, I have fitted the splined wheel hub over the stub axle and am fitting the hub retainer.
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And here in place fully assembled.
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My build progress so far...it's going slow, it took me a while to get my head around the re-build as I am so use to working on the eRevo platform rigs I have.
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The Rally is actually a very easy rig to work on...I am liking the Rally design very much .

Slipper Clutch.

I have decided to run a double slipper that is for the eRevo on this build...I don't know how well it work but my thinking is that the MMM powers an eRevo very well...I thought that the stock slipper was a wee bit on the small side for my liking powering the MMM 2200kv combo.

I am using graphite slipper pads on this slipper assembly...I have never used them before or have heard much about them either. They look good tho...I'm hoping with the 2200kv motor that this slipper assembly will work like a treat.

Hot Racing Power Double Up Slipper System.
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Here is the opposite side for reference.
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Graphite Slipper Clutch Kit.
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Here is a comparison of the stock slipper to the Hot Racing power double up slipper...I took the wear plate (slipper disk) from a brand new eRevo slipper clutch rebuild kit #5352R I had lying around.
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And here assembled with the graphite slipper pads.
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I had to replace the 2mm pin as it was too short...I used one of the pins that I got with my Tekno CVD kit as it was the right length that I was after.
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I also used the second hole on the input shaft.
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Remember when assembling that the spur gear # faces outward as seen below.
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Here is a side view of the slipper assembled.

TRX15GP Power Double Up Slipper System Large

This is a Power Double Up Slipper Pressure Plate and Slipper Hub for the Revo, T-Maxx Summit, Long Chassis e-maxx, 4x4 Slash Etc.
These are a part of the slipper assembly.
FEATURES:

CNC Aluminum construction with Hard Anodizing.
Allows you to double up the slipper surface to increase power transfer.
YOU WILL RECEIVE:

One slipper pressure plate
One slipper hub
REQUIREMENTS:

Installation onto vehicle.
COMMENTS:

This replaces TRA5351
NOTE:

For double the slipper surface order 2 sets of TRA5352X, TRX15HS, or TRX15GS

Nice work, its all gonna come together nice! The axle set looks like it all went together well for ya too. Maybe some others will brave the unknown, as you've showed, following directions can pay off! I get a awesome feeling after completing a mod for the first time. The harder the mod, the more empowering It feels after I finish. Great work, and excellent write up to follow.

Nice man. I like that upgraded slipper setup from HR. Man that adds3 more shoes and a huge biting area. I changed my Slash 4x4, Pede 4x4, & 1/10 Rally 4WD to the Revo Slipper and alloy pads. I feel it works better vs the stock on big power.

Let us know the difference of it over stock. That should be totally awesome for sure.

Nice work, its all gonna come together nice! The axle set looks like it all went together well for ya too. Maybe some others will brave the unknown, as you've showed, following directions can pay off! I get a awesome feeling after completing a mod for the first time. The harder the mod, the more empowering It feels after I finish. Great work, and excellent write up to follow.

Thanks mate...thanks for the info you and Humayray provided for the CVD mod. It took me a while to get my head around but wasn't to bad in the end. This Rally build is something new to me...it is my first non-eRevo platform truck...I like it, it really simple to work on .

Nice man. I like that upgraded slipper setup from HR. Man that adds3 more shoes and a huge biting area. I changed my Slash 4x4, Pede 4x4, & 1/10 Rally 4WD to the Revo Slipper and alloy pads. I feel it works better vs the stock on big power.

Let us know the difference of it over stock. That should be totally awesome for sure.

Very good work indeed.

Thanks mate...I'm really looking forward to giving my Rally a blast. I am still working on some of the mods. I am also thinking about adding a couple more limiters to the rear shocks. I'm hoping the slipper was a worthy upgrade for the MMM 2200kv combo.

Well, if you've done a lot of mods to your revo, theirs little to nothing that'll slow ya down here. I think tire mods and this axle mod is about as tough as it could get lol! Not bad at all Haha.....

Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon

i'm glad your liking it even more, you'll have a blast running it once its done, thats for sure. and we give all that credits to thedreadedend as he too show me how its done

Before Tekno jumped on board with the protrac set up, I was at a loss...... having xo1 sets, (need the carriers, knuckles, hubs.....)Tekno sets, (needing its matched carriers knuckles and hubs...)and being happy with both, I didn't want to invest in another full suspension from mip too. Id need a full set of stock sized carriers, knuckle and hubs lol. Proline had been advertising mip for protrac so I grabbed up all my parts to see what I could do about an extended axle/shaft set.
That's how that mod was born lol.

Mod 0.8 vs Mod 1 Gears.

I am running Mod 1 gearing in my Rally build. I am going to start off with 21/36 to see how that goes. I've been running Mod 1 20/38 in my eSlayer Pro 4x4 and absolutely dig Mod 1 gearing .

Here is a comparison of Mod 0.8 21T Pinion against a Mod 1 21T pinion
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A 54T Mod 0.8 is the smallest Mod 0.8 spur I have....here is a comparison against a 40T Mod 1 spur.
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A close up so you can see the different gear mesh.

Aluminium Diff Cup.

Below is a pic of the old diff cup (the black on the left) compared to the new one (the blue on the right).

The new screws are longer than what came with the old HR diff and they have replaced the countersunk screw head with the BHC screw which is used on the stock diff cups.

Hers is a comparison of the internal of the 2 cups...as you can see the new one (blue) resembles a stock cup. As you can see they have reworked the mould for the internals of the cup.

What is nice about the new HR diff cups is that there is NO MODS necessary to fit the I-bar into the cup. As seen below it is a direct drop of the the spider gear system into the diff cup.

Hot Racing Aluminum Differential Case for the Traxxas Revo trucks. (in place of Traxxas 3978) This differential case features a 6061-T6 aluminum body

FEATURES:
CNC Aluminum Construction diff case

YOU WILL RECEIVE:
(1) blue Aluminum Differential Case
(4) screws

REQUIREMENTS:
Steel axial guide and gasket that comes with the plastic diff case
Stock Gasket from (TRA3978)
Installing gear set and attaching to bevel gear
Thread locking adhesive to keep screws from loosening due to vibration.

Diff Shims.

These are the shims I am using now to shim my diffs and anywhere else on my rigs that need shims...these are from 3 racing; what''s nice about these shims are that they come in 3 different thicknesses (0.1, 0.2 & 0.3).

Diff Build and Shimming.

For my diff build I have used the Traxxas diff lubes.

Front diff I used 50K diff lube and for the Rear diff I used 30K diff lube.

I filled the diff cup to the top with the diff lube and removed as much of the air bubbles as practically possible.
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I then fitted the ring gear and tightened 3 of the 4 screws leaving the 4th one out to allow excess diff lube to escape through the open screw hole.
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And here all together, cleaned and ready to be shimmed.
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For my Front and Rear diff, they both took 1 x 8mm shim 0.3 thk on the ring gear side thus making the ring and pinion gear a tighter mesh with less play.
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The Front diff pinion gear took 2 x 6mm shim 0.2 thk pushing the pinion closer to the ring gear tightening the mesh even more.
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I then greased the ring gear with Mobil 1 red grease and closed up the diff case.
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Once together the gear mesh was relatively smooth...Lubing the spider gearsinside the diff cup, shimming and greasing the ring gear is not too difficult and fairly easy to do.

For the Rear pinion gear you would need a 12mm shim...I found that I didn't need to shim the rear pinion as gear mesh and play was relatively good. I may end up putting one 12mm shim on the rear pinion once I have broken the diffs in after a good few solid runs.

Mounting hardware for front and rear shock towers.

Again I apologies in advance for the poor quality photos in this section.

I've tried to make do with the screws and nuts that I have on hand in my tool box instead of purchasing new ones to suite my build.

Mounting the shocks to FRONT and REAR shock towers.
I have used the 3 x 32 CS that is used for mounting the eRevo shocks to the chassis.
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I then took 3mm flanged nuts that I had lying around that came with the Savox servos I have on my trucks.
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I threaded from the opposite end to where the shock mounts so the flanged nut will be on the shock end.
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I fastened the spacer (collar) as tight as I could then mounted the shock and fitted the nut to the end. I like to have a couple threads protrude out from the nut.
Front shock tower.
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Rear shock tower.
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Mounting the camber links to FRONT and REAR shock towers.
I never measured these but I think they were 3 x 18 BHC screws...again I used the 3mm flange nuts I got with the Savox servos I have.

Front shock tower. Before
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As you can see above the BHC screw is too long for my liking...as said before I like to have a couple of threads protrude out from the nut. I used the cutting disk on my dremel and cut back the BHC to my liking...this was done with the BHC assembled in place as per the photograph.After
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Rear shock tower. Before
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=====After
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My build is progressing nicely...I am very happy with it so far...it is also the neatest of all my builds so far. This rig wont see any dirt as it is built for street use only...