The Berlin Maison Guerlain was opened in summer last year, and Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain's art director, attended the event. Coriolon asked her whether there was a change or not, and she did not give a straight answer!

Sad to say, but the director's evasiveness on the matter does not surprise me in the least, given the general disarray of that house at this point in time. The managerial missteps have proliferated to the point where I have been forced lamentably to conclude that "Guerlain" is not Guerlain anymore.

I had a big bottle of Guerlain Vetiver (vintage), which I loved and so gave it to a friend in a rare gesture of perfumic magnanimity.

Unfortunately, he proceeded to give it away--not because he loved it, but because he did not! Lesson learned: make no assumptions when it comes to perfume!

More recently, I have tried a slew of the new vetivers, including many of the ones some people have mentioned above, but I have one question for you all:

Is Hermessence Vetiver Tonka the only sweet vetiver around? I think that I might like it, if I were to wear it a few more times, but at the moment it strikes me as slightly odd simply for its sweetness. Maybe it's a case like salted licorice: an acquired taste?

To me, Fat Electrician has a sweet vibe, but not in a gourmand manner. Smoky as well (contrary to Vétiver Tonka, which unfortunately isn't smoky on my skin)

Naughty naughty miss Shera want me to give you a spanking
and put you up for bed without dinner for sabotaging my
sermon on Encre noir rain soaked Vetiver HEHEHEHEHE
Just Joking well that's a good description

No, I do not like Enré Noir at all. It has fy far too much Cashmerean - a synthetic note should go through as woody.

Cashmerean has a smell of charcoal on a barbecue after being lit off with a bucket of water - a liquoricy smear. Nevertheless, it can be good when handled with consideration.

Thanks for clearing this mystery up, Apicius. That must be what bothers me about it. I never understand when I read people saying that "Encre Noire" is a "clean vetiver". What?

In my review, I said something like it reminds me of glue-sniffing or standing by the gas pump as fumes waft off the nozzle. I read someone else who described it as perfume for "Darth Vader". That seems about right to me.

"Infusion de Vétiver" - the vetiver kicks in very late, don't give up early.

I just got this one, and I have to say that I love it. I also got the bath gel and it is fantastic for a long, hot soak!

But I somewhat suspect that "Infusion de Vetiver" is the vetiver for vetiver haters because it seems quite low on that note relative to other colognes/perfumes said to be vetiver-centric. I smell a pretty hefty dose of tarragon, which is gorgeous to my nose...

I never understand when I read people saying that "Encre Noire" is a "clean vetiver". What?

There is a considerable difference between vetiver oil and vetiveryl acetate. The acetate is what we recognize as vetiver in perfumes. Once I had the chance to compare both: The oil is rough, smoky and not pleasant at all. I suppose there might be something of that in Encré Noir.

I never understand when I read people saying that "Encre Noire" is a "clean vetiver". What?

There is a considerable difference between vetiver oil and vetiveryl acetate. The acetate is what we recognize as vetiver in perfumes. Once I had the chance to compare both: The oil is rough, smoky and not pleasant at all. I suppose there might be something of that in Encré Noir.

Hmmm... so do you think that "clean vetiver" is supposed to mean "neat vetiver"

21.04.2012, 20:10

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the Vetiver from Le Labo as of yet.
That's one I personally like.
Encre Noire is one I like to wear as well though

"Infusion de Vétiver" - the vetiver kicks in very late, don't give up early.

I just got this one, and I have to say that I love it. I also got the bath gel and it is fantastic for a long, hot soak!

But I somewhat suspect that "Infusion de Vetiver" is the vetiver for vetiver haters because it seems quite low on that note relative to other colognes/perfumes said to be vetiver-centric. I smell a pretty hefty dose of tarragon, which is gorgeous to my nose...

I went against my self imposed prohibition of blind buying and purchased Infusion de Vetiver under peer pressure from CoutureGuru. He said all the cool kids were spraying it, even Sherapop
IdV is really a fantastic summer vetiver and I'm so happy I took the leap based, in part, on your review, Shera. You had me at the title, "Watery Leafy Green Vetiver". Now I don't have to miss Sycomore during the warm weather months.
I haven't seen mention of Diptyque Vetyverio in this thread. It shares many qualities with Sycomore. But Diptyque's signature warm spice accord may make this up front, statuesque take on vetiver a bit more approachable for some.
Right now I'm also enjoying Lubin "Le Vetiver Itasca". The vetiver is not the main event but its there with its unique ability to add strength and dimension while remaining open and airy. How does vetiver do that?

Chopard make a Noble Vetiver and a Noble Cedar. My husband tends to wear the latter, very strongly featuring vetiver anyway, on beach walks, where traces of it whip around in the wind. Very nice, but not at all strong in terms of sillage and projection.

As I could have forseen, it is quite rotten. I get a slight whiff of the old Vetiver during the first seconds after application, then some spice and leather take over with vetiver notes stepping aside. After an hour or so, some Vetiver comes back, but something else is missing, maybe the mossy side it once had? The vibe of the vintage does not fully break through, and longevity is reduced to about 3 hours,