MAX MARA COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2016/2017

For the coming winter the designer at Max Mara have created an elegant collection of Max Mara Atelier Coats.

The autumnal nuances beautifully colour the collection, both chic and season ready.

In the category of coats, it’s something long and slim, and where better to view that than at Max Mara, the Italian company that made its fortunes in outerwear?

It turned out well: The label is on top of the importance of the right proportions, and attenuated, narrow overcoats in various gray menswear fabrics punctuated this collection.

For once, it avoided being freighted with the anachronistic legacy of the ’70s maxi coat.

Maybe that’s because the theme of the collection was 1920s Bauhaus and the women painters, textile designers, moviemakers, and collage artists who were at the center of Constructivism, Dadaism, and modernism in Germany, Russia, and Ukraine in the free thinking, creative breathing space between the two world wars.

There was a charcoal gray chalk striped pantsuit in this show of which Marlene Dietrich would approve, if, indeed, that’s still a recommendation.

In 2016/2017, sightings of straightforwardly, exactingly well made pantsuits for grown women are rare and gratefully received.

It could be wished that Max Mara was more swaggeringly proud of this enormous strength it has. Though the Bauhaus Dada Berlin cabaret theme was well researched and pointed in a feminist direction in the show notes, it would have made the collection still more radical, relevant, and more feminist if the consciously narrative themes were discontinued altogether.

The problem is that the tail of the research can end up wagging the dog, so that merely to be faithful to the research. An overcoat can be smothered in gold sequins. Short playsuits can be made to mimic ’30s German gym class attire, and jumpsuits, half tailored, half sparkly, can advance as some kind of nod to the work overalls of the Bauhaus designers.

Truth be told, retrofitting Max Mara’s plainly appealing, well cut coats and tailoring in the service of a theme only obfuscates what a whole new generation is seeking out.

There is a reason why Vetements became so successful in the short space of a year – It’s name means “Clothes” .If there’s an example Max Mara might follow next season, and onward it’s that

” No trends, just more of the killer coats and modern suits.”

The super catchy mixes of the masculine with feminine, the classic with the modern, and the timeless with the innovative are the basic components of the brand Max Mara.

The interesting ways of interpreting tweed garments with nicely shaded dresses and garment duos compose a vital part of it. The new suggestions of color combinations are also impressive for the overall looks.

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