Potato dishes offer protein for pennies

Wednesday

Apr 29, 2009 at 12:01 AMApr 29, 2009 at 10:28 AM

By TOM STRINI Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

The lowly potato, usually a supporting actor on our dinner plates, can become the star in tough economic times. Potatoes, French gratin style, are the centerpieces of two dinners for four that weigh in at less than $10 each.

The first is a classic, creamy, cheesy luxe scallop that riffs on recipes from Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” The second began with Daniel Boulud’s take on an Alsatian scallop, which ran in Metropolitan Home magazine maybe 10 years ago. I’ve simplified Boulud’s recipe a little.

GRATIN LUXE1-1/2 cups milk, whipping cream or any combination

2 bay leaves

1 large garlic clove, halved diagonally to expose the largest possible cut surface

2-1/2 tablespoons butter (divided)

3 to 4 fist-size potatoes

1-1/2 teaspoons dried thyme (divided)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

3 slices Virginia ham or prosciutto, torn into bite-size pieces

4 ounces grated Gruyere cheese

Pour the milk/cream into a small saucepan, add bay leaves, cover and bring to a simmer; keep at a simmer over low heat.

Rub 10-inch-by-8-inch casserole dish with cut side of garlic clove. Spread 1 tablespoon butter over bottom and sides of casserole. Cut a piece of parchment to fit the surface of casserole dish with a little extra paper all around. Butter one side of the parchment. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Peel 3 of the potatoes and slice them lengthwise about 1/8-inch thick with a mandoline slicer. You could do this by hand if you’re good with a chef’s knife, but a mandoline makes for higher speed and perfect uniformity.

Lay the slices on a clean dish towel and press them dry with another towel. Overlap slices by a quarter-inch or so to cover bottom of buttered casserole. Sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon or more of the thyme and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and white pepper. Add a layer of the grated Gruyere (or other Swiss-type cheese) and distribute over that half of the ham. Dot with some of remaining butter, then add a second layer of potatoes, thyme, seasonings, cheese and ham. Be sure to reserve at least 1/3 cup of the grated cheese.

Add third and final layer of potatoes; slice that fourth potato if it is needed to complete the dish. Pour on the simmering milk/cream so it rises to just touch the bottom of the top layer of potatoes. Sprinkle on a little more thyme; add salt and pepper and dot with butter. Bay leaves sit atop the potatoes.

Tuck the pre-cut parchment, butter side down, into the casserole to cover potatoes. The excess paper should bend up to conform to sides of pan. The idea is to seal in heat to cook the potatoes quickly, but allow venting around the edges so the milk or cream does not boil over.

Bake on middle rack of preheated oven 30 to 35 minutes. Remove parchment and check potatoes for doneness. If the potatoes are soft, sprinkle on remaining 1/3 cup cheese. Increase temperature to 450 degrees and return casserole to oven for six minutes to brown the top. Serve immediately.

Makes: 4 servings

Total cost: About $5.50

ALSATIAN-STYLE GRATIN1-1/2 cups chicken stock

2 bay leaves

1 large garlic clove, halved diagonally to expose the largest possible cut surface

1 tablespoon butter (divided)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced on the mandoline

2 garlic cloves, pressed

4 large carrots, sliced into 1/8-inch rounds on the mandoline

3 fist-size potatoes (I use russets)

1-1/2 teaspoons dried thyme (divided)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

8 slices bacon

Salt and pepper to taste

4 dried juniper berries

In pot, bring stock with bay leaves to a simmer over low heat; keep at a simmer.

Rub 8-inch-by-10-inch casserole dish with cut side of garlic clove. Rub casserole with 1/2 tablespoon butter. Cut parchment to fit casserole and coat one side with remaining butter.

Put a skillet over medium heat and add olive oil. When oil is fragrant, add onion, garlic and carrot slices and sauté four to five minutes. Add 1/4 cup of the simmering stock to carrot-onion mixture, cover skillet, reduce heat and simmer five minutes. While vegetables cook, peel potatoes.

Remove lid, increase heat to medium-high and cook away any remaining stock with vegetables. Remove vegetables to a bowl and set aside.

Add 4 slices of the bacon to same skillet and cook over medium heat until well-browned. These slices will go into the bottom of the casserole dish. Cook remaining 4 bacon slices, which will top the potatoes, two to three minutes per side, to render some of their fat. While bacon cooks, slice potatoes lengthwise on a mandoline and dry on towels.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Place the more thoroughly cooked bacon on diagonals in bottom of casserole dish. Cover with a layer of potato slices, overlapping by 1/4 inch or so. Season with salt and pepper. Be conservative with the salt.

Sprinkle on a 1/2 teaspoon of thyme, then spread half the carrot-onion mixture over potatoes. Add another layer of potatoes and seasonings, then another of the carrot-onion mixture, dot with butter, and top with a third and final layer of potatoes. Add boiling stock to just touch top layer of potatoes. Place the more lightly cooked bacon on top, decorate with juniper berries and sprinkle on 1/2 teaspoon of thyme.

Tuck the parchment, butter side down, into the casserole to cover potatoes, with excess bending up to conform to sides of pan. Transfer to preheated oven and bake 30 minutes. Remove parchment, increase oven temperature to 425 degrees, return casserole to oven and bake five minutes longer. Watch closely to avoid scorching the bacon.