The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Observance of the voluntary June closure balances American Indian cultural and ceremonial values associated with the Tower and the month of June, with the status of the Tower as a world class destination and experience for rock climbers.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

 WHY JUNE? The summer solstice, which occurs late in June, makes June an extremely culturally significant period for American Indians. The Tower is a sacred site to affiliated tribal cultures. June was selected as the voluntary closure month by the Climbing Management Plan working group due to the many traditional ceremonies taking place throughout June, culminating at the end of June and the solstice.

 I DON’T SEE ANY CEREMONIES, WHY SHOULD I CHOOSE NOT TO CLIMB IN JUNE? The voluntary June closure is not tied to the visible presence of American Indian ceremonies at the Tower because these ceremonies occur any day throughout the year. Some ceremonies occur at night. These ceremonies are often private and may not be visible to visitors. Maximizing compliance with the voluntary closure is necessary to achieve balance between American Indian cultural values and climber access.  WHY ARE CLIMBERS RESTRICTED WHEN OTHER USER GROUPS ARE NOT? Climbing is perceived by some American Indians as in direct conflict with the Tower as a sacred site. One of the key elements of the Climbing Management Plan is balancing the validity of perspectives and uses by American Indians and climbers. The voluntary closure includes all Monument visitors above the Tower loop trail, not just rock climbers.

The Access Fund, a climber advocacy and access organization, supports compliance with the voluntary June climbing closure as a means to:

o Promote understanding and encourage respect for the culture of the numerous American Indian tribes who are closely affiliated with the Tower as a sacred site.

o Promote and advance self-regulation by climbers rather than more restrictive options.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE (Effective March 15-July 30) Climbing routes on the northeast face of Devils Tower have been temporarily closed to protect nesting peregrine and prairie falcons. The closure is implemented to provide the falcons with an undisturbed nesting location during this critical courtship and nest-selection period, and is an annual occurrence at Devils Tower. 45 climbing routes are affected by the closure, between “Belle Fourche Buttress,” and “Psychic Turbulence.” Over one hundred climbing routes remain open.

“The closure is implemented not only to protect the birds, but to protect climbers, as falcons are known to defensively dive in order to protect their nests,” said Tim Reid, Superintendent. “The presence of climbers near or above falcon nests can be distressing to parent birds and disturbance from climbing activities may force falcons to abandon eggs or chicks.” Climbers are asked to report any defensive falcon behavior to park staff. Park biologists will monitor falcon activity, and the closure area may be moved, extended or rescinded at an earlier date depending on nesting and fledgling activity.

Climbing routes will remain closed until the young falcons fledge and are no longer dependent on the nest location. Peregrine falcons have successfully nested on the Tower for the last three seasons, and have used a different face of the formation each year.

“The closure will be strictly enforced. All climbers are required to register at the Climbing Registration Office or kiosk before beginning their ascent,” said Drew Gilmour, Chief Ranger.

A complete and regularly updated list of closed routes can be found on the park’s website.

To learn more about Devils Tower National Monument visit www.nps.gov/deto or www.facebook.com/Devils-Tower-National-Monument-Official-NPS-Site or twitter.com@DevilsTowerNM or Instagram at #devilstowernps

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

P1 (5.5-5.8): From the initial belay bolts either climb slightly left and up an awkward wide crack, or move up and right about 15 feet until you can traverse back left. Once on the ledges above the belay you have three choices: (a) Go left around the base of the short pillar and climb up its left side, then continue up the left side of the small pillar above to a bolted belay station (5.5, combines Sundance and Wiessner). (b) Climb up through the stemming box, either stemming or jamming the crack on the left. Step left when you have a chance, and climb the left side of the upper pillar (5.6, Wiessner proper). (c) Climb up the stemming box. Instead of moving left, continue straight up the hand/fist crack to the top of the upper pillar (5.8, aka "Extended Wiessner").

P2 ("5.7"): From the belay move down & right a few feet until you can fall across the gap and into the Wiessner Crack. Keep reminding yourself that Fritz climbed this with a bowline around the waist, no sticky rubber shoes, with no pro and no beta, on sight! You may want to take your #6 camalot and walk it up as you chicken-wing and heel-and-toe. It is also possible to stay outside of the crack and use it as a side-pull/layback. Stop struggling once you get to the belay bolts at the top of the pillar.

You could link p2 and p3 with a 60m rope, but then you'd miss the fun of watching your partner struggle up behind you.

P3 (5.5): Continue up the wide crack/chimney directly above the pillar. At the platform above, walk to the back and climb the cracks on the right until you are on the same ledge as the upper Meadows Rappel. Build your own belay here for best rope management, using medium nuts.

Location

Either take the Southwest shoulder (aka Durrance) approach and traverse down to the bolts for the final Meadows Rappel, or take the South/East approach and climb an approach pitch up (see the "Bowling Alley") to the rappel bolts. These rappel bolts are ground zero for starting "Wiessner".

Protection

Nuts & cams, or nuts & hexes. Bring a 7" Big-bro or a #6 camalot for the Weissner Crack on p2 ... although Fritz did without! You might also want a 36-48" runner to sling a chockstone.