Begonias

You might be most familiar with the sun-hardy bedding begonias, the ‘wax flowers’ whose red and white blooms shine on through hot weather.

But there are many other types of begonias, some with beautiful patterned leaves as well as those simple, charming, waxy flowers.

Some begonias make lovely ‘fillers’ in shady, frost-free gardens, others are best suited for pots and baskets. Here’s a quick run-down of a few of the
members of this be group of plants.

Cane-stemmed begonias

These begonias (Begonia coccinea) can grow to 2m with straight stems and showy clusters of pendulous waxy flowers from mid-summer to late-autumn.
Called ‘Angel Wing’ because of the shape of the heart-shaped, often speckled foliage, they make fine garden plants in sheltered, frost-free gardens.
Their form and foliage makes them perfect plants for mixing into borders or using in pots in courtyards and balconies. Allow morning sun, take care
not to over-water and prune mature plants hard in late-winter to encourage new growth from the base. Make new plants from stem cuttings.

Photo - ntdanai/Shutterstock.com

Rex or king begonia

This begonia is grown for its large foliage, which may be coloured, patterned or have an intriguing metallic sheen, rather than for its insignificant flowers.
Bright and unusual shades of green, pink, red, silver, purple and grey combine to make bold patterns on the leaves. Grow rex in pots and baskets in
a well-lit position indoors. Because of their succulent leaves, begonias store moisture and need less frequent watering. Indoors they need high humidity
and good ventilation to avoid disease problems. To boost humidity, sit them in a tray of pebbles and water. Dry air will cause leaf margins to brown.

Photo - Eve81/Shutterstock.com

Tuberous begonias

These are grown for their huge colourful blooms and are best in a cool shade house, with part or filtered shade, and good ventilation to discourage powdery
mildew. There are erect varieties suited to pots, and cascading varieties suited to hanging baskets. As the flowering season approaches water them
with Phostrogen, but don’t over-water as tubers grow better if kept slightly dry and are susceptible to rotting if kept too wet.

Photo - Marie C. Fields/Shutterstock.com

Elatior begonias

Charming begonias for indoors, these are grown for their clusters of pretty pastel flowers. They are happy to grow for a season or two near a bright windowsill
or kitchen table. Avoid wet or waterlogged soil. Flowers come in pretty soft shades of peach, lemon, white, pink and apricot. Feed with liquid feed
and a sprinkle of controlled release. They are not long-lived but we think they’re better than a bunch of flowers! You’ll find them in the indoor plant
section at your local nursery.

Photo - sakhorn/Shutterstock.com

Bedding or Wax begonias

This small-growing ‘bright as a button’, old-fashioned wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens) is making a little comeback as a hardy bedding
plant for borders and pots. It never stops flowering and lasts one season. It comes in red, white and pink flowers with green or purple leaves. B.
semperflorens is great for pots. Watch for powdery mildew fungus on the leaves, treat with a fungicide. To get an extra year out of the plants, try
cutting it back over winter, top with straw, keep it dry and it should grow back in spring.

Photo - joloei/Shutterstock.com

Hanging begonias

‘Bonfire’ (Begonia boliviensis) has exotic flame orange-red flowers with interesting serrated green leaves with a red margin and compact habit.
It happily grows to 45cm and will flower continuously through to late autumn. It is very robust and will thrive in hot dry weather in a window box,
hanging basket, or in the garden as a border. Feed with liquid feed. Plants die back over winter, re-emerging in spring.

Begonia 'Red Dragon'. Photo - Luisa Brimble

Begonia care tips

Begonia biggest enemy is frost. Planting them under other shrubs will help protect them. Pots can be brought close or into the house over winter in frosty
regions.

Use the best potting mix available and add 20% perlite to lighten the mix, which allows better drainage and and reduces the risk of fungal problems during
wet weather.

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Ask us

What is the best time and method to propagate daphne?

Any time from spring to autumn is suitable for taking daphne cuttings. Take a cutting of approximately 10cm length, including a node (a swollen section of stem where leaves, stems, roots originate). Dip this into rooting hormone gel or powder and place into propagation mix deep enough so that it stands by itself. A plastic cover over the pot will help retain humidity. Place in a protected position out of direct sunlight. Keep moist and expect roots in a couple of months.

I planted potatoes in layers of manure and straw in early July and would like to know when they will be ready to harvest.

You should be ready to harvest your first batch in February. Simply use your hands to feel through the light mix you have used and pull up as many potatoes as you need for dinner. You can keep on harvesting as you need the potatoes until you run out, or until the start of next winter.