This Christmas season has been a whirlwind. For the past six weeks, Judy Walker and I have been dashing in and around New Orleans and even to Fairhope, Ala., for book signings, radio and television interviews and all sorts of appearances in connection with "Cooking Up a Storm: Recipes Lost and Found From The Times-Picayune," a book we co-edited. We're happy to say that the book has been so well received, it's difficult to find a copy, and it is now in its second printing.

I want to personally thank each and every one of you who patiently stood in long lines to get books signed, and for all the kind words you offered about the long-awaited publication.

Needless to say, my Christmas shopping and other holiday preparations had to be put on hold until Christmas Eve -- unheard of, for me -- since I'm usually well-organized. So it came to pass that at 5 a.m. on the day before Christmas I was baking cookies, whipping up a few batches of fudge and pralines, and roasting pecans for gift-giving. I also realized that I had not posted my annual wish list on the refrigerator for my husband to see.

But as usual, my husband rose to the occasion. In my absence, he had plenty of time to prowl around antiques shops and flea markets, his favorite haunts for unique gifts.

The first package he gave me to open Christmas morning was indeed a surprise: a Tom and Jerry batter bowl and matching cups. For those who may not know about the Tom and Jerry drink, allow me to explain.

The beverage, made with milk, eggs, sugar and either whiskey or brandy or rum, is similar to eggnog. I was introduced to this delightful concoction many years ago by Dr. John L. "Putsy" Beyt, who served it to his friends every Christmas season. I have fond memories of going with my parents to partake of this wonderful drink that Putsy and his wife, Mac, so graciously offered in small cups labeled in gold with "Tom and Jerry."

After Putsy died , his son, Dr. John L. Beyt III, took up the tradition. My husband and I have driven to his home in New Iberia, sometimes braving winter storms and foggy nights, to imbibe with his family. I don't mind saying I coveted those precious cups and the batter bowl for many years.

Now I have my very own Tom and Jerry set. And would you believe, nestled in this old batter bowl, I found a yellowed, hand-written recipe from the previous owner? I made a batch of the beverage the other night, to test out the recipe for New Year's Eve. Although it was delicious, it's not quite as good as the Beyt recipe, which calls for rum or whiskey AND cognac and dark creme de cocoa. Perhaps next year Johnny Beyt and I can have a Tom and Jerry cook-off during the holidays.

Here is the recipe that came with my gift. Of course, if you don't have Tom and Jerry cups, which are about double the size of demitasses, use regular size coffee cups, NOT MUGS.

Tom and Jerry mix

6 egg yolks

1 ½ cups sugar

1 pint whiskey (more or less to taste)

6 egg whites, stiffly beaten

1 pint heavy cream, beaten until frothy

Boiling water

Grated nutmeg for garnish

Cream the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl. Gradually add the whiskey, whisking constantly until well blended. Fold in the egg whites and whipped cream. Fill the cups half full with the batter mixture and add enough water to completely fill the cups. Stir to blend, garnish with nutmeg and serve immediately.

The next Christmas gift from my husband was a huge basket (one from my collection of old Louisiana baskets) filled with Meyer lemons, some of which came from Judy Walker's garden and some from our neighbor's trees. Also included in the basket were several quart-size preserving jars, a box of kosher salt, a pack of cinnamon sticks, and small bags filled with black peppercorns and whole cloves, all the ingredients for making preserved lemons.

I retrieved a piece I wrote several years ago in this column and spent the day after Christmas making a batch of preserved lemons. If you happen to have some Meyer lemons, I suggest you give this a try.

Preserved lemons are easy enough to do. All you need are lemons and salt. Regular table salt, rock salt or kosher salt can be used. However, I find rock salt better, as it dissolves slowly and the texture helps to break down the acidity when rubbed into the lemons. You can also add herbs and spices such as peppercorns, bay leaves, cinnamon and cloves to the preserved lemons.

Sterilize glass jars to prevent bacteria from growing and remember that the lemons must be completely covered with lemon juice. Otherwise, a white mold, which is harmless but unattractive, might form on the surface of the preserving liquid. When you're ready to use the preserved lemons, it's best to rinse them in cool water. Most of the time only the rinds are used in dishes but the pulp can also be used -- it's simply a matter of the taste and appearance you want in the dish. Oh, and don't throw away the preserving liquid as it can be used over and over again, as long as you retrieve the lemons using a wooden spoon and don't contaminate the liquid by leaving the container open too long.

Most any kind of lemons can be used. Just be sure they are fresh and unblemished. Rinse the lemons in cool water and pat them dry before beginning.

Preserved lemons

Makes 2 quarts

Two 1-quart sterilized jars with airtight lids

6 medium- to large-size lemons

½ cup table salt, or 1 cup coarse rock salt or kosher salt

Cut the lemons into quarters and put them in a shallow glass bowl. Sprinkle the salt over the lemons. With your fingertips, rub the salt into the lemons, then squeeze them to release as much juice as possible. Add the lemon pieces, a few at a time, to the prepared jars. Mash the lemons down into the jars with the handle of clean wooden spoon to release more juice. Add any juice and the salt from the bowl to the jars. If there is not enough juice to cover the lemons, add more freshly squeezed lemon juice. Seal the jars and store in a cool, dark place for 30 days, shaking the jars from time to time to distribute the salt. (I usually store them in the refrigerator, but that's a personal quirk.)

You can then use the lemons for various applications.

Roasted chicken with preserved lemons

Makes 6 servings

1 stick unsalted butter, softened at room temperature

2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved lemon rinds

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon cayenne or freshly ground black pepper

1 roasting chicken, about 4 ½ pounds, rinsed and patted dry

2 medium-size onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the softened butter, preserved lemons, thyme, ½ teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper in a bowl. Mash and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon to blend well. Rub the chicken with the remaining salt and pepper.

Using your fingers, separate the skin from the breast meat and insert the butter mixture, spreading it evenly under the skin. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Put the chicken in a large roasting pan.

Toss the onions and garlic in the olive oil and arrange them around the chicken in the pan. Bake until the juices of the chicken run clear, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let rest for about 10 minutes before carving to serve. Top the chicken with the onions and garlic, and the juices from the pan.

Here are some other ideas for preserved lemons.

*Finely chop about 1 tablespoon of the rind and combine it with 2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped. Season with a pinch or two of pepper and a sprinkle of olive oil; use to garnish blanched asparagus.