SORCERY WITH SALSA

William Rice, the Magazine`s food and wine columnistCHICAGO TRIBUNE

Salsa is hot and shows no sign of cooling down. Whether it`s a style of music, interior decorating or something to eat, the word no longer needs translation. It has become part of the contemporary English language.

On the food front, ''salsa'' is a broad term, meaning, literally,

''sauce.'' But the description has grown even broader. American chefs and caterers have embraced simpler forms of cooking-often just grilling or steaming a piece of poultry, fish or meat (and have responded to health concerns by using fewer butter- and cream-enriched sauces). In doing so, they have been seeking color, variety, flavor contrasts and texture to make their presentations exciting. One solution, which has spread from the Southwest and Southern California across the nation, is to garnish the plate with a salsa.

Basic red and green salsas (often served as dips with the cornmeal chips called ''tostados''), are familiar to anyone who has dined in even fast-food versions of Mexican restaurants. They are available in bottled form from manufacturers such as La Preferida and La Victoria. A more intricately seasoned salsa, a tasty packaged product called Schy`s Gourmet Salsa Mix, has been formulated by Hat Dance`s David Schy. It is available at Treasure Island stores.

But in their kitchens, Schy and other chefs are doing daily

improvisations on the classic theme, creating spritely combinations of fresh, chopped vegetables-either raw or partially cooked-and/or fruit and vegetable relishes. To increase the flavor complexity, the cooks often smoke or roast some ingredients, especially tomatoes, bell peppers and onions. They use various vinegars in place of, or in addition to, lime or lemon juice. They introduce new tastes drawn from a broad panorama of herbs.

In fact, all it takes to create salsas these days is some imagination, a trip to the market and a sharp knife.

The rewards are the pleasure of being creative and the realization that your salsa possesses the hallmark of freshness that no processed product can hope to have. But to obtain that quality, you have to use the freshest ingredients possible. A salsa just won`t live up to its potential if ingredients such as tomatoes and fruit are not voluptuously ripe.

So, as the appropriate ingredients reach their peak during the outdoor cooking season ahead, put on an apron and a sombrero and try the recipes that follow, or use them as takeoff points for your own salsa sorcery.

RICK BAYLESS` FRESH TOMATO-CHILE RELISH

About 1 1/2 cups

1 large, RIPE tomato

3 chilies serranos or 2 chilies jalapenos, stemmed (or more or less to taste) 1 small onion, peeled

1 clove garlic, peeled

8 to 10 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 teaspoon cider vinegar or freshly squeezed lime juice

1. Core the tomato, then seed it (if desired) by cutting across the width and squeezing out the seeds and liquid. Chop it very finely (so no pieces are larger than 1/16 inch) and scoop into a small bowl. If you want a milder sauce, seed the chilies, then chop very fine and add to the tomatoes. Finely chop the onion and garlic and add to the bowl along with the coriander.

2. Stir in the salt, vinegar and 1 tablespoon water, then let the flavors mingle for 1/2 hour or so before serving.

-From ''Authentic Mexican'' (Morrow)

DEBORAH MADISON`S CILANTRO SALSA

About 1/2 cup

2 cups cilantro leaves and some stems

1 or 2 jalapeno peppers, seeds and veins removed

Grated peel and juice of 2 limes

2 garlic cloves

5 tablespoons light olive oil

Salt

Additional lime juice or white vinegar

1. Wash and dry the cilantro. Roughly chop the cilantro and jalapenos;

then put them in a blender or food processor with the lime peel, juice and garlic. Blend or process until well chopped, gradually adding the olive oil as you do so. Season with salt and additional lime juice or vinegar to taste.