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Drain the case, remove the drive shaft, remove the bolts that hold the two case halves together and gently pry the case apart, it will be difficult to seperate. Once the rear tail half is off take it to a machine shop and have the bushing replaced, you can't do it at home without special tools.

Excessive wear on clutches is usually from alot of heavy hauling, pulling heavy trailers. 40,000 miles is real excessive. If you can, I would take the access cover off the bottom of the bell housing and check to see if the pressure plate bolts aren't backing out. When the clutch was replaced they should have (or I would have ) used a thread lock on these bolts. There is always a lot of vibration in this area, and I have seen these bolts back out, on manual and automatic transmissions.

STEP 1.
Loosen the bolts on the water pump flywheel then remove the belt.

STEP 2.
Take a oil-pan length 2x4 and use it in betwen jack and oil pan and jack up engine almost so that steering pump fluid cover on top side almost hits cross bar.

STEP 3
Remove the center bolt of the motor mount holding the two halves of the mount together.

STEP 4
Remove two bolts and one nut on the engine side mount. Remove 4 bolts (2 on top and two hidden on side) of the bolts holding the mount to the frame.

STEP 5.
Now take a big 2x4 and wedge it so as to move the engine to the driver side of the compartment. At the same time rotate and move the mount piece on the engine side rotating about the stud [that the nut came off of]so as to paritally split apart the two mount halves. You'll see that you can now get at the two hidden bolts.

SEP 6.
Remove the water pump pulley wheel. There are a bunch of small and little bolts in the water pump...some on bottom side.

STEP 7
Remove them and old pump and Scrape off old gasket.

STEP 8.
Apply new gasket and sealer to new pump and reverse order to install.

inner timing cover oil gallery gaskets are more than likely your problem...you can make your own for 10 dollars or give nissan 500 for a new cover as they dont supply the gaskets....check the oil pan for gasket material...thats a sure sign they blew out but they may be gone and still holding together so its not always accurate...

The beaings job is to not only give the axle something to rotate on, but also the keep the axle centered in the hole. When the bearing gets loose, it allows the axle shaft to have an oblong roation, which wears on the seal and allows it to leak. You don't have to run the trans low on fluid to have the output bearings go bad. If you have gone enough miles to wear out a clutch, you have gone enough miles to get some play in the bearings.

mcdevito75 here, Something wrong with--in the carb. Have it rebuilt or replaced. ----- Not unless the gas is leaking from outside the carb. in which case tighten the screws holding the 2 halves of the carb. together.