One of the perennial mysteries of holiday entertaining has to be the enduring popularity of frozen, packaged hors d'oeuvres -- from fatty, over-salted wieners snuggled in pastry, to tasteless shrimp rings on plastic trays that need fluorescent-red sauce to make them palatable.

"If it's boxed and brown, put it down," says Eric Akis, Victoria, B.C., food writer, former caterer and author of a series of popular Everyone Can Cook books.

Given that his 2006 title Everyone Can Cook Appetizers has more than 100 easy recipes for tasty bites that won't break the bank, Akis is just the go-to man for the dos and don'ts of hors d'oeuvres and appetizers.

"People choose frozen, breaded and deep-fried hors d'oeuvres because you just take them from the box, put them on a tray, maybe bake them a few minutes and they're done. But it's easy to make your own, so don't be intimidated."

Even better, they're often surprisingly inexpensive.

"Not only are hors d'oeuvres an immediate signal of hospitality, but it's probably an indication the guests are going to have a good time and the host has given the evening some thought. And, hors d'oeuvres encourage people to mingle," says Margaret Dickenson, Ottawa's reigning queen of home entertaining, popular TV personality and author of Margaret's Table: Easy Cooking & Inspiring Entertaining.

If it's a dress-up soiree, it's best to avoid messy nibbles like bruschetta smeared with salsa that could break apart and drop on your lap, Akis says.

"But if it's a more casual affair and you want to dazzle your guests, I like to serve some more decadent little bites for the first half-hour or so, like smoked salmon canapes. Once that drama is done," Akis says, "then you put out food on platters distributed around the room for people to help themselves."

If it's a standup affair, make sure the food is easy to eat and bite-size. Few occasions are as frustrating as holding a drink in one hand, then having to negotiate messy food in the other that requires a plate and utensils.

More popular these days are delicious warm hors d'oeuvres -- a rich soup, or even cassoulet -- served in small shooter glasses, with perhaps a little spoon if the food needs it. "The presentation makes it attractive," Dickenson says.

A host must also decide how much food they'll need. If it's a dinner-hour occasion then you're pretty certain guests will be ravenous when they arrive, so count on a meal-sized amount of food -- at least six different appetizers for interest, and 10 to 12 pieces per person (or more if the party starts early and is sure to last well into the night).

On the other hand, if you're looking to whet appetites before dinner then count on four to six bite-size pieces for each guest -- enough to tempt people with anticipation of more to come, but not fill them up, Akis says.

Offer a wide selection to please every palate. A vegetarian choice of sliced cucumber topped with red pepper salsa is delicious and frugal, Akis says.

Yes, it's perfectly OK to supplement nibbles you make at home with store-bought food like great cheeses, sushi and dips -- but avoid frozen appetizers that are more pastry, wrapper or coating than filling.

Akis's recipe for simple Smoked Salmon Tartare on Cucumber Rounds, presents a significant spin on the classic dish beef tartare in which raw meat is chopped and mixed with tangy flavourings and displayed in patty-like form on a plate. The recipe is from his latest book, Everyone Can Cook for Celebrations.

In this version, finely chopped smoked salmon replaces the beef. The tartare mixture is spooned on palate-refreshing slices of cucumber, making for a decedent appetizer.

Dickenson says her Avocado Crepe Roll is a "no-fail" wonder with mesmerizing flavours that never go unnoticed.

"Normally I serve the rolls as an hors d'oeuvre or appetizer for a vegetarian option," she says.

"However, served with a simple salad, they make a tempting main course for a brunch, casual lunch or light family dinner."

Above all, don't try to be complicated to impress your guests, says Sheila Whyte, owner of the popular Thyme & Again Creative Catering.

"I start with food that needs no refrigeration like mixed nuts, spicy pecans or wasabi peas you can put in an attractive bowl and pop in your mouth with drinks. Then I move forward from there with items I can serve at room temperature, or directly from the fridge.

"And you can always go for tried-and-true cheese platters -- but this time showcase local artisan cheeses, which you serve with artisan bread. Both are outstanding.

"Everyone is looking for simple, clean comfort food even in appetizers. They're a winner every time."

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Smoked Salmon Tartare on Cucumber Rounds

Makes: 20 pieces

4 ounces (115 g) smoked salmon, finely chopped

3 tablespoons (50 mL) finely chopped red onion

1 tablespoon (15 mL) capers, finely chopped

1 tablespoon (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons (10 mL) fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon (5 mL) Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 teaspoons (10 mL) chopped fresh dill

20 English cucumber slices cut 1/2-inch (12-mm) thick

Place the salmon, onion, capers, oil, lemon juice, mustard, pepper and dill in a bowl and gently mix to combine. Use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out some of the centre portion of each cucumber slice.

Mound 2 teaspoons (10 mL) of the smoked salmon tartare in the centre of each cumber slice and arrange on a serving tray.

Options: These bites can be made several hours in advance; cover and refrigerate until you're ready to serve. Instead of smoked salmon, use smoked tuna to make the tartare. You can find smoked tuna, which is usually frozen (thaw before using), at specialty seafood stores and some supermarkets.

To toast walnuts, place nuts in large, dry skillet on medium-high burner and toast, stirring occasionally, only until lightly brown, about 1 or 2 minutes. Remove immediately from hot pan when toasted.

For the dumplings, in a large bowl combine pork, cilantro, chives, chopped walnuts, garlic and ginger powders, white pepper and salt to taste.

Take one dumpling wrapper and wet outer rim lightly with water. With dumpling skin flat on one hand, place 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of pork mixture in centre. Fold wrapper edge into a taco shape and pinch together while creating pleats on one side (alternatively, crimp together with a fork, being sure to squeeze out excess air). Repeat for remaining filling and wrappers.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add dumplings a few at a time to not overcrowd and stir to avoid sticking together. Cook until done, 5 to 7 minutes, then remove with slotted spoon and place on a clean tray -- do not overlap, as dumplings will stick.

Immediately lay out crepes on a clean flat surface. Spread central and bottom areas of each crepe with sour cream (1 teaspoon/5 mL) and drizzle with a touch of mayonnaise. Place one wedge of avocado horizontally near the bottom edge, sprinkle central area of avocado with

1/4 teaspoon of caviar, if using, and a few drops of maple syrup.

Starting from the bottom edge, roll crepe securely around avocado wedge to form a roll. Arrange avocado rolls with seam-side down.

If not serving immediately, arrange rolls in a single layer in an airtight plastic container and refrigerate.

Make-ahead tip: Crepes can be prepared earlier in the day. If using black lumpfish caviar, make crepe rolls within an hour of serving because the caviar tends to "weep" black ink.

Wow appeal: Tie centre of each crepe with fresh chive stem, knotted to secure, just before serving, and insert small edible flower at the knot.

Source: Margaret's Table by Margaret Dickenson

Per roll: Calories 136; Fat 8. g; Sodium 287 mg.

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Prosciutto-Wrapped Breadsticks with Fig Dip

Makes 18 hors d'oeuvres

1/2 cup (125 mL) finely chopped, stemmed dried black figs

1/2 cup (125 mL) balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup (125 mL) water

1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar

1 tablespoon (15 mL) Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons (50 mL) fresh chives, chopped

Salt and pepper

18 thin slices prosciutto

18 bread sticks

Place dried figs in a saucepan. Add balsamic vinegar, water and sugar and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until slightly thick, about 5 minutes.

Pour fig mix into a blender and add Dijon, lemon juice and chives; pulse until coarsely mixed together. Season with salt, pepper to taste.

Spread one side of prosciutto slice with the fig spread, fold lengthwise and wrap around bread stick. Repeat with remaining bread sticks.

Heat oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add leek and cook until tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Pour in cream and cook until it thickens slightly; season with salt, pepper and remove from heat.

Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). Place shucked oysters on a baking sheet. Divide and spoon the leek mixture on oysters and top with Parmesan cheese. Bake 10 minutes and serve.

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