Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano

Pauline Kenny

Southern Tuscany, near the border with Lazio, is less crowded, sees fewer
tourists and is more rural than the central parts of Tuscany. The landscape
is sparse and wide open: rolling hills, fields, not heavily wooded. The southwestern
part of Tuscany is called the Maremma, an area of ranches and cowboys (the
Texas of Tuscany).

If you are staying in the Montepulciano - Pienza - Montalcino area, a day
trip to southern Tuscany is fun and not too long of a drive. See Pitgliano,
Sovana and Sorano. If you can only do two of the three, skip Sorano. Add in
Saturnia to stop for lunch and to visit the hot springs.

Looking at Pitigliano from across the valley

Directions

We have been through this area several times and have not figured out a
good route. The roads look good on the map, but are narrow and winding and
slow going. One time we drove from the main highway (No. 2) and turned off
at Acquapendente in the direction of Onano, then to Sorano, then to Sovana.
This was very slow going - took much longer than we thought (about an hour
from Acquapendente).

From Sovana, you can go straight south to Pitigliano, but we headed west
to Saturnia for lunch and hot springs, then we took the more main road south
from Saturnia to Manciano, where we headed east to Pitigliano. You get a spectacular
view of Pitigliano from this road. So spectacular, that the car in front of
us came to a dead stop when the town came into view. And this was on a busy
highway!

Also coming from this direction there is an incredible hairpin turn right
at the town gates for Pitigliano. If you are going into the town, go straight,
but watch for traffic coming down the hill to your right. There is parking
in this area.

If you are bypassing Pitigliano (as we were), you have to do a very sharp
right turn while going up a steep hill. I happened to be driving, and the
car was manual drive, and I still can't believe we survived without a scratch.
Added in to all this, was Steve saying watch out for glass on the road, so
I swerved and ruined my approach for the sharp turn and a big bus was coming
towards us and I had to drive right into his lane to make the turn. All while
shifting down. Only my masterful driving got us out of that one!

I think it is better to turn off north of Aquapendente, on the same road
that goes to Piancastagnaio but it splits very soon and you would go in the
direction of Castell'Azzara then Sorano. This might be a shorter and faster
route.

Detail on outside wall of the church of San Rocco
in Pitigliano (12th century)

The Towns of Southern Tuscany

Pitigliano: A perfectly preserved old town perched high on a ledge
overlooking two rivers. It has several stores, caffes and restaurants. Explore
the whole town and then walk down the steps by the main gate to get to the
path that goes around the bottom of the town. The historic center of this
town is coming back to life - mostly for holiday homes, but there are still
some locals living here full time. As in most Tuscan hill towns, most locals
live in the modern outskirts.

Sorano: One guide books says it is grey and boring, another says
it is a great town. We just drove by, but I am sure it is worth a visit. It
looked beautiful.

Sovana: Fabulous small town with two good churches. The one in the
center of town has excellent stone carvings and bits of frescoes. Many stores,
restaurants and caffes - but it is a very small town. You park on the edge
of town and walk in. See the Etruscan tombs west of Sovana, just off the highway.

Saturnia: Drive on to Saturnia and have lunch in our favorite restaurant,
I Due Cippi da Michele or one of the other fine restaurants here. This town
is very upscale and beautiful. It is also small. There is an original Roman
arch and a bit of old Roman road at the edge of the town. The famous Saturnia
spa and hot springs are just down the road.

Roman arch and road in Saturnia, on the edge of town

Resources

Book: The hilltop towns of the Fiora valley: A guide to the Etruscan
and Medieval centres of the Maremman hills.
This is an excellent book for this area. You will find it in the shops in
these towns. Lots of photos, maps and descriptions of Sovana, Sorano, Pitigliano,
Saturnia, Montemerano, and Manciano.

www.slowtrav.com/tr/tripreport.asp?tripid=491: Maremma: Lost in a Tuscan
Kansas, trip report by Alice Twain, September 2004. Alice and her family
spent a week in an agriturismo in the Maremma. Read the report for lots
of good details about this area.