Out-of-town visitors to Santa Paula driving down Harvard Boulevard can't miss the Chickyweedy's sign in letters big enough to cover the entire width of the eatery. But they might need a clue or two to figure out that the rustic spot specializes in Mexican food with a nod to fast-food favorites like hamburgers and hot dogs, plus a few fish items.

There's an explanation for the eye-catching name, and it's a family thing. Chickyweedy is the nickname of Santa Paulan Ralph Gomez, father of cafe owners Albert and Betty Gomez. Albert and Betty credit their father for, among other things, the work ethic that drew them to the restaurant business as a way to confront the recession and its effects on other job prospects.

Topping one page of their menu in bold print is "Famous Corn Burritos," followed by "Tacos/Taquitos and Burritos." The other side of the page, emblazoned with "Chickyweedy's," features seafood and grilled items. We found all of the above available at the small order counter that serves an interior dining room and covered patio.

We were a bit confused by the corn burritos listings, thinking that Famous Ten Corn referred to some exotic corn combination. In reality, it means if you order that item ($7.95), you actually get 10 of the burritos, which are hand-rolled corn tortillas tightly wrapped around fresh-cooked beans and topped with the house hot sauce and lots and lots of shredded cheese. The lively sauce can be served on the side, which works well, since it makes a handy dipping sauce for the crisp "burritos." You also can order the goody in quantities of two, four, six or eight, from $1.95 to $6.95.

Continuing with tortilla-wrapped items, we ordered a couple of fish tacos ($2.50 each) in small soft tortillas, the grilled cod blending nicely with shredded cabbage, cilantro, onions, tomatoes and the house special sauce. Fish tacos are available hand-battered as well. Finally, we grabbed what turned out to be the best of the bunch: a shredded beef burrito ($5), which was big and juicy, full of the beef mixed with beans, rice, cheese, lettuce and tomatoes. The latter two provided a refreshing crunch and a spurt of flavor, respectively. Ground beef is an option, too.

Turning the page, we tried the New England-style clam chowder ($3.95 for a small bowl) and an order of fish and chips ($8.95). The chowder was chock-full of ingredients but tasted mostly like the bacon in it, not the clams. The fish itself was white and light-textured but the batter was a bit thick and soft for our taste. Fries were good and crisp; the small coleslaw cup was simple and fresh.

We threw in a chili cheese dog ($6.25 with fries) and chili cheese fries ($4.95), each with plenty of chili, cheese and diced onions.

Service was cheery and helpful, a perfect counterpart to the relaxed dining experience and modest prices at Chickyweedy's.

Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her food. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.