Description

This great route is a fairly long pitch for Vedauwoo, and has everything from chimneying to a nice fist/hand crack. Another excellent moderate on the Nautilus.

The climb follow the obvious chimney on the left side of Ted's Trot Block between Cornelius and Lower Slot Left. Climb a fun well protected chimney(I'm not kidding, it sews up with stoppers and aliens) to a big ledge. Above the ledge, climb another chimney with a fun hand crack in it to the small roof. Pull over the roof on bomber fist jams, and grunt up the dihedral to the top. The last 20 feet are the crux.

To descend, rap off the back of Ted's Trot block to the first big ledge. Walk back around this and squeeze down the worm hole - this puts you about 20 feet from your pack.

Protection

Stoppers, small to medium cams. Aliens make protecting the initial chimney easier. Save a 3.5 and a 3 camalot for the exit moves, and no wide pieces are needed despite what it looks like from the ground.

This is an excellent route with varied climbing and is a good way to get introduced to big cracks at Vedauwoo without needing any big gear (just a fist sized piece or two for the top). The crux moves under the roof and out onto the face are great fun, perfect fist jams. I agree with the comments about using Aliens (or equivalent) in the opening chimney moves, smaller gear is what you need. I lugged a #4.5 and #5 Camalot with me and they just got in the way.

5.5 A1: done 18 May 1956 by Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody and Andy Ryan. "This route bears the remains of the bolting fanatics having at least 11 bolts in a route that has been done with one and for which three are very adequate."