Peppercorn Guide

February 2, 2008 /

Pepper is the world’s most popular spice, and is a historically prized commodity that was once used as currency. Black, white, and green peppercorns come from the berries of the pepper plant, a vine that is native to India and Indonesia. Pink peppercorns are actually the fruit of a completely different plant—the Baies rose plant—a small tree native to South America. Szechuan peppercorns also come from an entirely different plant, a type of prickly ash shrub native to northern China.

Black peppercorn: The most common type of peppercorn, black pepper also has the strongest flavor. To make black peppercorns, the berry is picked just before it is fully ripe, then dried until it shrivels and the skin turns black or dark brown. Tellicherry and Lampong are two of the most prized varieties.

White peppercorn: Less aromatic and hotter than black pepper, white pepper is usually used for its inconspicuous appearance to blend into light-colored sauces or other foods, like New England clam chowder. For white pepper, the berry has ripened fully before being picked, then the skin is removed and the berry is dried.

Green peppercorn: Unlike black and white peppercorns, green peppercorns are usually sold preserved in brine (although they can sometimes be found dried). They are soft, under-ripe versions of the berry that have a fresher, milder flavor than the dried ones. Green peppercorns are often used to season steak, pÃ¢tés, and mustard.

Pink peppercorn: Usually used as a garnish, pink peppercorns have a slightly sweet, floral flavor that is quite different from true pepper and closer to that of juniper berries, though much stronger.

Szechuan peppercorn: Similar in appearance to black pepper, this mildly hot spice is distinctively aromatic, making it a necessary element in many traditional Chinese dishes.

How to Buy

Black and white pepper is available whole, cracked, and either coarsely or finely ground. If possible, buy whole peppercorns and grind them just before using. Pre-ground pepper loses its flavor very quickly. Green peppercorns are available packed in brine or water, or freeze-dried. Dried pink peppercorns are usually available whole; often they are also part of mixed peppercorn blends. Dried Szechuan peppercorns are found whole in Asian markets and some specialty foods stores.

How to Use

Black and white peppercorns are almost always ground before they’re added to a recipe—grinding releases the peppercorn’s flavor, and biting into a whole peppercorn just isn’t pleasant. A good pepper grinder can grind peppercorns to a fine or coarse texture (depending on your preference). Sometimes whole peppercorns are crushed, which works well when pepper is used as a coating, as in steak au poivre. Szechuan peppercorns are often stir-fried or toasted before being ground, to bring out their special fragrance.

How to Store

Dried whole peppercorns may be stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year; ground pepper will keep for up to four months. Green peppercorns that have been stored in brine will keep in the refrigerator for up to one month after opening. Be sure to use water-packed green peppercorns within a week of opening. Store freeze-dried green and pink peppercorns in a cool, dark place for up to six months.