I just had the same problems. Lemme guess.....dead battery, now the driver side window won't go down but the other 3 will and locks won't work at all but the FOB seems to work but the doors don't unlock or lock?

Here's how I remedied the situation. Replaced the battery. Remove the driver control panel (2 screws) and unplug the connectors, let them sit for a couple of minutes unplugged, and plug them back in. Might be a good idea to use some contact grease between the connections.

Don't take it to the dealer, especially if it's not under warranty. They don't know what the problem is and all that will happen is you will end up spending more than what you can "fix" it for yourself. They will tell you you need a new driver control module/BCM that will cost at least $350.

If I can figure it out (and I'm not a mechanic) so can you. Good luck and keep us posted.

As a Master Mechanic on light and heavy vehicles for over 35 years, replacing the battery doesn't do anything for fixing the problem. 12 volts setting and 14.2 volts running is just that. No matter what battery you remove or install, it is still 12.2 volts when vehicle is shut off. Some people report that the problem fixed itself by disconnecting or replacing the battery. I can assure you since this is such a random problem that they got lucky when they did that and it functioned again. Not because of the battery disconnect or replacement. Mine started working again without touching anything a few years ago. After 3 months of non-operation all of a sudden the locks and window functioned again. When it acted up again, I removed the module and silicone greased the connections. Problem solved so far, (not guaranteed).If it acts up again, I am going to attack the fuse box connections feeding the drivers module.

I completely agree with Den052. While the battery going south may have initiated the problem, replacing it won't fix it. The low voltage of the old battery pushed a lot more current through the connectors then they were designed for - this includes the fuse connectors in the fuse block, causing them to overheat and lose their gripping. This results in an intermittant connection that can fluctuate when outside temperatures rise and fall. I describe how I fixed this problem on mine in posts 426 and 438 in this forum - not elegant, but I haven't touched it since then and it still works fine. Good luck!

You guys do know that there was a SB on the fuse block, right? When I had my initial problem with the window/fob/battery, they initially nailed me for a new $450 BCM, assuring me that was the problem. Two days later, same problem. When I said, "Put the old BCM back in", they were like, "Oh that was bad anyway". Then they gave me some scam excuse that the battery was bad, holding "a high surface charge" (the battery was 3 and a half years old), but dropped quickly and a new $130 battery would solve the problem. The next day after their charging/discharging testing the blower motor fried. "Oh that's not related to the testing, it just happened to fry". At that point (by this time the bills were about $750) they 'mentioned' that there was a service bulletin on the fuse block and they had replaced it "free of charge", like I was supposed to be grateful. They also said the fuse block was "burned and scorched".

It was at that point I started to try and get some resolution from Chevy. It was pretty evident something was seriously wrong with the electrical on the truck. The dealer said they would cover 1/3rd of the bill and Chevy 1/3rd if I would cover 1/3rd. Chevy wouldn't cover their third. That's when contacted their "Customer Care Center" and got offered 5 oil changes and a tire rotation "valued at $450 dollars!

The truck was ok from 2007 (it was an '05) until 2010 when the window problem happened again. Well I shouldn't say "ok" because I replaced the blower motor a couple times, the engine head when the compression was flat in a couple cylinders, numerous lights, and finally gave up on the CD player. The secodn time the window/fob thing happened (dead of winter with the window stuck down) I took the truck to a competent (non dealer) mechanic that trailed the problem to the window module this time.

I've also heard of things mysteriously fixing themselves on the truck. I think there may be some truth in fully discharging the electrical system in the truck. I don't know much about vehicle wiring, but I do know something about computers. Given the BCM, ECM etc, and the voltages they work at, I don't think it is all that unbelievable that some error code/message is retained or that some prom is corrupted that resets when power is completely drained. Remember, a lot of these components only "go to sleep" but still require some amount of power even when the truck is turned off. Just leaving the key in the ignition keeps the BCM alive at a higher level than if the key is removed.

So, problem with the fuse block, definitely - mine was burned. All the other stuff, grounds, connectors too much paint on the body, faulty programming... could be any or all of the above. Unless you really like tinkering with the truck to solve the mystery, just write the thing off as a money pit, a bad investment from a company that should have gone bankrupt, cut your losses, sell the thing and never buy another Chevy product. Trust me, I know from experience, you will be doing yourself a favor. There are plenty of manufacturers out there with similar products that probably support their customers.

Yes, there is nothing wrong with replacing the battery 6 years old and won't hold a charge. It's just that removing and replacing the battery won't fix things that are acting up such as mentioned in this thread like blower motor and window/lock operation.

BTW does someone have any info on the fuse block recall or replacement?

"It DOES help to replace the battery......especially when it's 6 years old, is the original, and won't hold a charge."

Actually with my truck, the first time I had the window/fob thing was after three and a half years, the truck was just out of warrantee by like 6 months. That's the time the dealership said it was the battery, after replacing the BCM and fuse block. At the time the batteries were only available from the dealer for $130 bucks. The second time the window/fob thing happened, replaced the battery as a precaution. That was three years again, but it didn't fix the problem. I took the truck to a competent mechanic that trailed down the problem to the window door module.

My 2009 GMC Canyon is having electrical issues AGAIN! Last year I experienced problems when it was cold out (Indiana weather 20-30 degrees out) in the early morning or late at night. Get in the truck and the windshield wipers and windows wouldn't work. The door locks were hit and miss. Took the truck in at least 3 times before they finally could duplicate the problem and it was fixed????? Well again here in 2011 I'm experiencing the same problem. Once again the dealer can't duplicate the problem. GM - I have had it w/ this truck. You need to figure out what the problem is and inform your dealer network on how to fix the problem. I can't say that I will be purchasing another GM vehicle if you can't figure out your problem. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE!!!! Because my dealer can't duplicate the problem. This is the 4-5 time it has been in the shop. Normally for at least a week!

You have alreday states having "had it w/this truck." being the FORMER OWNER of one of these POS colorados get rid of it and you'll get rid of the problem.. sorry it was the only way I could get the "PROBLEM." solved..GOOD LUCK!!

"DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE!!!! Because my dealer can't duplicate the problem. This is the 4-5 time it has been in the shop. Normally for at least a week! "

You figured out the problem correctly:

GM Service.

You figured out the only solution that will work:

"I can't say that I will be purchasing another GM vehicle..."

They are not standing behind a flawed product. They went bankrupt. Obama paid back some political favors and bailed them out. Next November Obama will be gone. At that point they will have to be concerned about customer satisfaction again.

Seriously, sell the truck. I had mine for 6 years. For 4 years I had the endless electrical problems. I'd spend $500-$800 bucks each time, swear I'd sell the truck when it was fixed because of all the inconvienence, but then I would want to get my money out of the 'investment'. Things would be ok for another 6 months or a year and then some other weird electrical problem would crop up. Luckily I found a good auto shop that would find and repair the problem rather than "just guessing", but it was more $$$ each and every time. I finally gave up and bought a Toyota. I absolutely hated to do that, but GM earned that the hard way, by being penny-wise and dollar foolish. Of course it wasn't their dollars anyway but the US tax payers, but...

cblk1214,I apologize for your frustrations. Has your dealer involved Technical Assistance? If you email me your VIN and current mileage I would be happy to look into this for you. I look forward to your response!ChristinaGM Customer Service

I have a canyon, crew cab.. i had the same thing w/the window.. i wouldn't use any liquid cleaner.. this is electrical.. right.. no fluid.. burn something out.. take apart the door panel.. the pins just might be sticking.. the driver side.. drivers like me.. so easy to click, click all doors, windows.. my truck has over 140,000 miles. around 80,000 i quit being lazy and took the door panel apart.. those pins sometimes.. get stuck.. or damage.. i micky moused it.. (with cut off sucker sticks) works just fine.. the heater.. use to cuz some kind of smoke due to the connecter.. fine i broke the 3 pin off no smoke. only can use on 4 level.. i don't mind i don't like to use.. the air cond, or heater for more then 5 min.s at a time..

After going to GM and buying the schematic for the truck. I found that the security system uses a paired key format.. Meaning the vehicle security system must be paired to an ignition key in order to link the common data bus for the BCM(Body Control Module). If the problem persists beyond this process, you will have to take the vehicle to GM, they will reset the BCM, but not tell you that. They will tell you it was a fuse and charge you 20 dollars. There is no tech bulletin on this issue. Gotta love GM

Solution:Set the parking brakeDisconnect the battery terminalsput the key in the ignition and turn to accessory positionleave the drivers door openreconnect the battery(you should hear quite a bit of clicking etc.)get inside the vehicle and close the doorturn the key to off and remove the keyyou hear the door lock actuators open the locksYou're done.

Sure hope this helps. This is my girlfriends truck, and of course hers developed the problem in the middle of winter and her window was down about 2 inches as she smokes.. Let's just say, I was under the gun to fix this. GM was no help. Wish you all the best.

Well the dealer was finally able to duplicate the problem yesterday. Everything with the fuse block under the hood had power. Which wasn't the case last time. The dealer replaced the BCM last year and that didn't fix the problem. Month later they replaced the fuse block under the hood and that worked till the problems recently resurfaced. Latest development is they think it has something to do with the ground wires from one of those two items. Hoping the problem will show up again so they can test some more and finally come up with a soluation. Fingers are crossed!!!

Went to start the truck this morning, with trouble turning over. Got it to turn over, but within a couple minutes of driving, the CD Changer began randomly shuffling CDs, and the clock reset to 12. Got it back parked, and now when I attempt to turn over, it turns and dies instantly.

Any ideas? Wouldn't expect this out of a truck with 47k miles, but I've already had to do the brakes and tires so not too shocked at more problems.

I had an '04 till last week when I finally gave up and traded it in. I put over $20,000 into it and even in the couple days before I traded it in, it still had a short that did the exact same thing. Read the posts. Most guys swear it is the wiring harness and have had some success in swapping it out.

YES get rid of the P.O.S.!! And never buy another G.M. product. Trust me you won't be sorry. After Obama motors took over, the company just DOSEN'T care how they or thier dealers talk/treat thier customers.

I was a 20 yr. die hard Chevy fan but the Colorado took care of that!Colorado the gift that keeps on giving..(to the service dept.)

If you would like assistance in working with a dealership towards resolving this concern, please email us more information (including your name/user name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, your servicing dealership, and any further details about this vehicle concern).

I have to agree with the previous poster. Bot the Chevy hack but the person saying get rid of the Colorado and never buy another GM product.

I've followed the posts since there were only like 40 or 50 of them. Now there are over 500. I really liked the Colorado but finally gave up and bought a Toyota. I never in a million years thought I would ever buy anything but American. Obama Motors is no longer American IMHO.

That aside, there are so many electrical issues with this truck, and so many possible solutions, there is not any one single fix since the problems reoccur and are ongoing. It could be the programming of the control modules, the grounds, the alternator, the battery the.... forget it, just replace the truck with something other than a GM product.

By the way, I did do the "customer care" BS. I got fed up with the GM service department randomly replacing expensive parts always promising this would fix the problem that would reoccur. Their "care" representitive offered four oil changes and a tire rotation "worth $450 dollars!!".

Forget it, do yourself a favor, get rid of the money pit as soon as you can for whatever you can get for it.

Sarah. THNX for your concern! took care of the cust.serv. problem a year ago traded the 07 P.O S.(Colorado) off on an 07 Jeep Liberty and LOVE it! No rude,disrespectful service manager telling me "we don't care about your problem." "take your business somewhere else."

After which I call someone like you at good ol' G.M. who tells me "Sorry Randy Wise Chevrolet. Milan,Mi. is and Independent G.M. dealership there's nothing we can do." SOOooo with that said obviously G.M. DOSEN'T care how a service manager/owners son of the dealership treats thier customers!! The sad thing is I REALLY liked the trucks 4cyl. engine/gas milage. and was a "DIE HARD" chevy customer for yrs. But I guess paying back Obama & the boys is more important than a few satisfied customers..

Since my WONDERFUL treatment at Randy Wise Chevrolet. I've had a sign in the back window of my Colorado/Jeep stating just what they can do! and whenever someone asks why, I make it a point to tell them what was said to me by both Randy Wise/G.M. Have a nice day!

I have to chuckle with this "Customer Care"represenatives trying to drum up business for their dealerships. How about arranging a recall on the truck?

The "we're sorry with your frustration" reminds me of those banking ads with 'Peggy'.

"Um, yeah, my colorado doesn't start, the driver's window doesn't work, the fob doesn't work, I've taken it to the dealer three times, they've replaced the BCM, the battery, the blower resistor, the fuse block, all the time saying they have never seen this problem before. Is there anything you can do about it?"

"Ah-low, dis is Peggy. You are waluable customer. You con change in your coupons for tokens, vich you con redeem for credits...."

Just sell the Colorado and buy a Chevy Volt. At least when that one burns up they'll buy it back.

Ok. This is my first post and am obviously here becuz the same thing happened to me yesterday.Was putting the xmas lights up while listening to music from my 2007 colorado LS.(which i still love by the way.....for now). Never had a problem b4 listening to tunes and the battery dying but it happened yesterday. Dont know if maybe my passenger door was partially open,and the light was on or what, but it died. It would barely turn over and wouldnt start. i shut everything off and let it sit for a couple more hours and then it started no problem. Took it around the block to charge it up a bit and thats when i noticed the drivers side window and power locks not working and the remote for the keyless entry. (wtf does FOB mean btw?) I looked at it this morning,checking all fuses,reading the manual etc etc. Pulled every fuse and looked at them and then kept checking the problem to no avail.I made sure every fuse was all the way in, forcing them all in tight.Still didnt work. Got on the internet and read a bunch of posts here.I tried bstroud5073's tips about disconnecting the battery and putting the key in etc. It didnt work so i disconnected the battery and let it sit for 3 hours this time instead of just disconnecting it and hooking it right back up. So what i did was disconnect the battery for 3 hours,then put the key in and turned it to ACC,left the door open and then hooked the battery back up.The door chimes came on right away and then i tightened the the battery terminals tight.(didnt hear any clicking noises of relays or anything). I then got in the truck and closed the door,turned the ignition off and pulled out the key.The locks never made a sound when i pulled the key out,but the window and locks both worked when i tried them!!!( I never put the emergency brake on either at the start). So i was happier than a pig in you know what. Now my remote wont work for my keyless entry. Maybe when my battery died it sent some signal to my remote and fried the battery in it!!! Haha. Who the hell knows. Hopefully it will work in a few days. Pretty damn strange how you cant even disconnect your battery w/o losing power to some electrical items upon startup!! What a friggin joke!!! And there was a mechanic in here who said that disconnecting the battery wouldnt do anything to reset the BCM? Sorry bud but you obviously have no clue. If you have no explanation why a dying battery causes electrical components to not work upon startup,then your reasoning behind disconnecting the battery for a while not working to fix the problem, has no value.

Ive had the truck for a year and a half now and a rear signal light went a couple months ago.$1.99.Easy fix.No other problems until a month ago. My engine light came on and all of a sudden i cant pump gas into the tank at full pressure.Takes me about 20 minutes to fill up. Its not being able to release the air from inside the tank and i think the airline from the tank is plugged or something. I looked under the gas tank neck today and the airline is solid metal line welded to the main neck. I dont know how it could become plugged. Havent had it looked at yet as i have worked 27 days straight and havent really worried about it because im sure the engine light is on due to gas cap air pressure etc. Anyone know a fix for this problem?

Anyway,i havent even started the truck yet since fixing the door lock/window problem.I want to give it a good run, but ill wait til tomo morning when i go to work. I cant believe that with all these posts on here that there isnt a definite solution yet. Its all a guessing game. I read alot of posts in here.Spent all day reading other peoples posts and its such a shame that GM could care less about the people who "WERE" and are supporting them. Charging people astronomical amounts of money for 2 yrs old or less vehicles to be fixed.

Congrats to snaproll for his new truck.I read alot of his posts!! Hopefully, unlike him and many others, this isnt the start of my electrical nightmare!!! Or i'll be going to Ford next!! Dont mind fords. Dont dislike japanese cars,just cant afford them...lol.....Take care and good luck all!!