2009 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru Domaine du Comte Armand

Burgundy 2009 Best Buys - Premier Crus Wines If there was a Grand Cru in Pommard this would undoubtedly be it, and in years like 2009 you could make an argument for it. This is where Ben Leroux really puts his genius to work; the completeness is overwhelming. As in 2005, Ben has crafted something quite magical.(Joss Fowler, Cellar Plan Account Manager)

A very intense, multi-layered nose reaches down to a profound palate and, although this is evidently very rich in fruit, there is something very stylish about it. There is a vast range of fruit on the palate, even a hint of licorice, leading to an extraordinarily vibrant finish. This may be Benjamin Leroux’s best ever Clos des Epeneaux.(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

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The Producer

The family of the Comte Armand has owned the vineyard of Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard since 1826. The vineyard wasn’t replanted post-phylloxera until 1930, but has since confirmed its rating as one of Pommard’s very finest sites. After many years when the Clos des Epeneaux was the sole wine made at the domaine, further vineyards were acquired in 1994: Auxey-Duresses, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru, Volnay and Volnay Frémiets. The younger vines from the Clos des Epeneaux are also sold as Pommard or Pommard Premier Cru.

The modern era began under Pascal Marchand (whose first vintage was 1985), followed by Benjamin Leroux and now Paul Zinetti, Benjamin’s second-in-command. Each has left their mark: Pascal Marchand elevated the domaine, making it the greatest Pommard estate, and Benjamin Leroux oversaw conversion to biodynamics (certified from 2005).

Since 2014, Paul Zinetti has been at the helm, and a subtle but discernible change is underway. The Clos des Epeneaux’s famous dense, rich, tannic composition, so individual and impressive, is being gently moderated towards a wine that will be accessible a little earlier, while in no way undermining the ageability of one of Burgundy’s great terroirs. The firmest tannins are less evident after only gentle pumping-over and a very limited number of punch-downs. A new de-stemming machine is also delivering much better quality whole berries.

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The Grape

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The Region

The most powerful red wines of the Côte de Beaune emanate from Pommard, where complex soils with a high proportion of iron-rich clay produce deep-coloured, relatively tannic wines. A Pommard that is ready to drink in its first few years is probably not going to be a great example of the appellation.

Two vineyards stand out: the lower part of Les Rugiens, which has been mooted for promotion to Grand Cru status, and the five-hectare, walled Clos des Epéneaux, monopoly of Comte Armand.