Reynolds Cryo Blue installed and run in for 200km more....Braking power has massively improved.If you had been using cork type pads (or cork synthetics....i.e. the brown generic ones)....ditch them! The Reynolds are on a completely different level on these rims.Kyle, can you get back to us about the pad/rim run-in time. Is that pad line-up related, or heat treating the rim related?Thanks.

_________________Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!

My name is Andreas, and i just moved to Shenzhen recently. I am planning to visit several places where they manufacturing carbon bike parts, first of all probably i will go for a visit to Hong-Fu factory here in Shenzhen. I will write an article for the leading Hungarian online cycling page (Revomag.hu), and also im planning to make a discusson over here. Andreas

Hello Andreas, of course, warmly welcome. you can contact me by email.

Kyle, can you get back to us about the pad/rim run-in time. Is that pad line-up related, or heat treating the rim related? Thanks.

Geoff, the versions marked on our instruction sheet are all proved/tested by us, and run good effects. In addition, This is for avoidingsome guys using wrong brake pads. Because we got feedbacks that they got problems for the track due to using brake pads(which cannot be matched for carbon wheels).

That is not what I'm asking, Kyle. I absolutely agree that you should run the manufacturers recommended pads. I'm happy with the Reynolds CryoBlue performance. They are good (they have started squeeking a bit but the braking performance is good for a carbon rim).What I am asking about is the 200km "break-in period" (see your companies instructions re setting the brakes up)Is this 200km period to flatten the pads to the rim completely?ORIs the 200km period to "heat treat" the rim?

BTW I have now done about 500km on your company's rim (50mm clincher) and have now used it on "the tricky descent" round here. It has coped well and this is a very very good thing I am impressed so far.

_________________Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!

That is not what I'm asking, Kyle. I absolutely agree that you should run the manufacturers recommended pads. I'm happy with the Reynolds CryoBlue performance. They are good (they have started squeeking a bit but the braking performance is good for a carbon rim).What I am asking about is the 200km "break-in period" (see your companies instructions re setting the brakes up)Is this 200km period to flatten the pads to the rim completely?ORIs the 200km period to "heat treat" the rim?

BTW I have now done about 500km on your company's rim (50mm clincher) and have now used it on "the tricky descent" round here. It has coped well and this is a very very good thing I am impressed so far.

Geoff, usually for new rims and pads, existing a run-in-period, in the early days, heat generated easier when braking and squeak much,after 200KM-400KM riding, will feel better. to some extent, flatten pads to cooperate rims well.

Regarding rims, hahaaa, although i am confident in our rims and your proficient skills, everyone should take care the long term descend, especially for the tricky conditions.

Kylefoo, any estimated availability date for a 38mm tubular in the new profile or a 50mm tubular? Of course, what I'd really like is something in the 42-45mm depth range.... like the new Boyd 44 http://www.boydcycling.com/2013-product-revamp/

This is the new U-shaped 50mm tall and 24mm wide aero carbon rim that was introduced this year.

My proposed build for the rest of the components is below with my questions.

1) Rim: I have a posted a diagram that Mr. Hu of Farsports sent me - no questions there apart from weight.2) Spoke holes: 20/24H Internal - I am assuming this means that there will be no spokes drilled through the clincher rim and thus allowing for tubless tires.3) Hub: ED ceramic hub - does anyone have experiences with this hub or the Yuhub hub for straight pull spokes?4) Spoke: Sapim CX-ray, black - if ED hub, I think they thread all of the spoke heads head in or head out but not alternating, correct?5) Nipple: Sapim (SILS), black - no issue6) Mounting Front wheel: 20 spokes radial - no issue7) Mounting Rear wheel: 16 spokes drive side - 2X, 8 spokes non-drive side - radial - is the strongest spoke configuration? Can I assume that will be almost as strong as a 32 spoke rear wheel with 1:1 lacing since there will also be 16 spokes on the drive side? The weight for this build is 1470g as opposed to 1330g for the 50mmx23mm V-shaped rim Cyclocross wheelset.

So, once again, if you all would be so kind, what do you think about the following questions:

1) Does anyone have experiences with the Yuhub hub for straight pull spokes? Would you recommend this hub over the ED hub for J-bend spokes?

2) For wheels built with the ED hub or equivalent with J-bend spokes, the spoke heads are all threaded head in or head out, correct? Has this been a problem?

3) Is the 2:1 16 spokes laced 2x on the drive side and 8 spokes laced radially recommended for an 8,9,10-speed Shimano/Sram wheelset?

Kylefoo, any estimated availability date for a 38mm tubular in the new profile or a 50mm tubular? Of course, what I'd really like is something in the 42-45mm depth range.... like the new Boyd 44 http://www.boydcycling.com/2013-product-revamp/

Teleguy, so far we have 50mm tubular 24mm width, "U" shape, Will send you section drawing by email. 38mm tubular may be will in our business line in the future.

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