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Broadhead tuning

I'm trying to get my broadheads to fly straight, but I am having a heck of a time doing it. I have read the easton broadhead tuning page, but that didn't really help. I have the broadheads shooting about 1" to the left of my field points at 20 yards which is not ok with me. I have the bow turned up as high as it will go (easton recommendation) and I REALLY don't feel like shooting 70ish pounds if I don't have to. That is just asking for me not to be able to get my bow back when I'm freezing in a tree stand or out of energy from a long stalk. I'd like to be somewhere in the mid to upper 60s for draw (I've noticed a couple of pounds can be a big difference at times). I'm shooting gold tip arrows with a 100 grain Muzzy MX-3. I've heard that the MX-3s just don't tune very well from time to time. I also have the occasional "flyer" that will end up 6 or so inches to the left and fly very badly. I think I need to square my arrows, but I already have the insert glued in. Is there a way I can square up the arrow with the insert in? Do I need to switch to a heavier broadhead? I have no issues with my field points flying straight or acting weird. Its only when I put my broadheads on that I see bad flight and a "new zero". As for the arrow spine, I'm dead on for the gold tip chart, so I don't really think I should have to change my arrow to adjust the spine.

Anyone have any tips?

Now therefore, please take your weapons, your quiver and your bow, and go out to the field and hunt game for me.
Genesis 27:3 (NKJV)

heavier spined arrow is what solved all my issues. I was shooting easton 400's - the chart on the box said that was the correct spine for a 27.5 inch arrow at 66lbs. draw weight.. well i ran into the same issues as you. Bought some 340's, and immediately saw a huge difference in broadhead flight, while field tips still shot the same as before. Just my .02 cents. Its something to consider at the very least. Do you have access to other broadheads that you can test, maybe a buddies or something?

Have you figured out what your FOC for your arrows is? After reading the Eastman's article about FOC I applied it to my arrow set up and I couldn't believe the difference it made. A good friend of mine is a muzzy die hard and he shoots every arrow with each broadhead to see which ones "like each other" and then he uses small washers to get the blades to line up with his vanes. It seems to work for him as I have seen him practice out to 70yds with his broadheads. As for me I could never get muzzy's to fly well so I quit using them. You can also make sure your arrows are squared on the nock side, as if they aren't that will change how the arrows leave your string.

Try "walk back tuning". Start at twenty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to thirty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to forty yards and shoot another arrow using your thirty yard pin, and so on using the same pin. What you are trying to achieve is a straight vertical line with your arrows. For example if your line trails to the right then you need to move your rest slightly to the left. Start out in small increments (like a 16th") it doesn't take much.

Try "walk back tuning". Start at twenty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to thirty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to forty yards and shoot another arrow using your thirty yard pin, and so on using the same pin. What you are trying to achieve is a straight vertical line with your arrows. For example if your line trails to the right then you need to move your rest slightly to the left. Start out in small increments (like a 16th") it doesn't take much.

Remember that you want to move your sights the same direction as your arrow are flying. ie, if arrows are flying right, move your sights right, arrows missing down move sights down, etc..

For my setup Slick Tricks shoot very close to my field points. The difference at 20 and 30 yard is almost unnoticeable - "true field point accuracy" as they say on the package. Beyond 30 yards...well, shooting a bow isn't like bench shooting a rifle with 12 sandbags. You give me that setup and I can "keyhole" my 7mag at 100yds.... Just MY story but I'm stickin to it! Good luck...

what kind of bow are you shooting ? I've been shooting muzzy's for 25 yrs and never had a problem with them I shoot out to 65 yds and they fly same as my field points , one thing a lot of people dont realize if your bow is not tuned corrrectly your broad heads and field points wont shoot the same , i shoot a mathews single came I have found if my broad heads shoot lower than my field points after changing a string all i have to do is put a few twists in the buss cable cable and bam they right on the money far left and right a fine adjustment left to right on the rest also i shoot a 465 grain arrow with 13 on foc and mx3 muzzy's

I'm shooting a bowtech insanity cpx at 68# draw. I paper tuned the bow and the arrow flight looks great with field points, but my muzzys are constantly hitting to the left. Does this mean I need to move my rest? How do you know if you need to tune your bow more? I'm actually working on getting my hands on some gold tip insert weights to increase my forward weight to get my FOC aroun 11. I'm at 9 right now.

Now therefore, please take your weapons, your quiver and your bow, and go out to the field and hunt game for me.
Genesis 27:3 (NKJV)