Are Shimano freehubs and SRAM cassettes fully interchangable, even in 10sp ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!

You *may* need a spacer behind the 10sp cassette, but those're easy to come by.

"Gummee!" is correct, on the spacer. If the back of the cassette "spider" is flat, you'll need it. Otherwise, the "spider" will have a raised lip around the center hole, which eliminates the need for a spacer. If in doubt, your LBS can make a quick assessment.

(the number is QBP's PN).. those look to be a $200 'touring' wheelset. near as I can tell, Handspun is a QBP house brand for machine made wheels with a range of decent components, obviously these are at the lower end, but last I heard, Deore LX was OK stuff, as are Mavic rims (the A319 are a pinned 6106 alloy box 622x19 rim, recommended for 28 to 47mm tires, so my target range of 32-35mm should be fine... and if I get skinny and start riding farther, I can even put 28s on them).

thinking about something like this as an upgrade to my hybrid (which has noname rims and hubs), along with eventually switching from the crappy 3x8 alivio/acera/whatever to a sram apex compact 2x10... yes, I know, this ends up costing like $600

this is hte crankset I'm looking at. can be had as cheap as $116 or so, with an english thread BB.

Well after 7 years of doing absolutely nothing as far as exercising. I have decided to get the mountain bike out and air the tyres up and try riding. I started last Thursday. I rode 10 miles and had 2 heart attacks a few coronaries and I'm not sure but I believe that I gave birth some where in there. It took me 1 hr and 51mins to ride 10 miles on flat ground. Skipped a day and road 10 miles on Saturday. not to bad I shaved it down to 1 hr and 10 mins and felt ok, besides the muscle burn and knee pain. I road 10 miles Monday and stayed in high gear the entire time with no stops forgot to carry a watch so I don't know how long it took. And it wasn't that bad at all. The only problem is my knees feel like they have ice picks jammed in them during and after. I know that the body posistion and seat height have a lot to do with this. I made sure the when my leg is in the fully extended position that it has a slight bend in it. But what else could I do or do I need to just keep pedaling and it will go away. Answers

__________________
Josh
Somewhere in North Carolina I purchased 2 miles of roadside flowers for the low price of $850.00

Well after 7 years of doing absolutely nothing as far as exercising. I have decided to get the mountain bike out and air the tyres up and try riding. I started last Thursday. I rode 10 miles and had 2 heart attacks a few coronaries and I'm not sure but I believe that I gave birth some where in there. It took me 1 hr and 51mins to ride 10 miles on flat ground. Skipped a day and road 10 miles on Saturday. not to bad I shaved it down to 1 hr and 10 mins and felt ok, besides the muscle burn and knee pain. I road 10 miles Monday and stayed in high gear the entire time with no stops forgot to carry a watch so I don't know how long it took. And it wasn't that bad at all. The only problem is my knees feel like they have ice picks jammed in them during and after. I know that the body posistion and seat height have a lot to do with this. I made sure the when my leg is in the fully extended position that it has a slight bend in it. But what else could I do or do I need to just keep pedaling and it will go away. Answers

drop the seat another 1/2" or so. stay in a lower gear so you're pedaling faster but easier, that requires more wind but less grunt, and less strain on your knees.

if that old mtn bike has knobbies on it, and you're mostly riding on bike trails and occasional hard pack, get some slicks or semi-slicks in like 26x1.75 instead of gnarlies in x2.125 or whatever you got now. for mostly pavement, run the tire pressure up near the max and it will roll easier. oh and clean and lube the chain..

drop the seat another 1/2" or so. stay in a lower gear so you're pedaling faster but easier, that requires more wind but less grunt, and less strain on your knees.

if that old mtn bike has knobbies on it, and you're mostly riding on bike trails and occasional hard pack, get some slicks or semi-slicks in like 26x1.75 instead of gnarlies in x2.125 or whatever you got now. for mostly pavement, run the tire pressure up near the max and it will roll easier. oh and clean and lube the chain..

I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"

__________________
Josh
Somewhere in North Carolina I purchased 2 miles of roadside flowers for the low price of $850.00

(the number is QBP's PN).. those look to be a $200 'touring' wheelset. near as I can tell, Handspun is a QBP house brand for machine made wheels with a range of decent components, obviously these are at the lower end, but last I heard, Deore LX was OK stuff, as are Mavic rims (the A319 are a pinned 6106 alloy box 622x19 rim, recommended for 28 to 47mm tires, so my target range of 32-35mm should be fine... and if I get skinny and start riding farther, I can even put 28s on them).

That is a SOLID wheelset if they are built well.

LX is great stuff and A319's are good tough rims.

This would be a pretty typical budget (but still good) wheel for a loaded tourer around 200lbs rider weight.

I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"

frame geometry has changed considerably since the classic bike days. in the 70s/80s, you wanted the tallest frame you could barely straddle for a road bike, and maybe 2-3" shorter for a pre-suspension mountain bike. with a 34" inseam, yeah a 26 or 27" frame would have been typical in a road bike. I am 6' tall, have 32" inseam, and rode a 24" road bike frame.

now days, the seattube length is less important, its really the top tube length that counts, and you want that sized to your torso... you can adjust for your leg length with the seat post, and your arm length with the stem and bar rise.. with those numbers, I'd say you're a L to XL bike in most lines.

if you do get a new mountain bike, look for a '29er' (29" wheels, really 700c mountain bike wheels), these are much better suited for big guys. if you're going to be mostly riding bike paths and occasional hard pack, a hybrid might be the way to go, and if you're going to get serious about speed and long distances, a full out road bike.

i'm back down to 210 lbs after being weighed in at 230 a few months ago, this is my 'hybrid' trail eater.

The wind was against me again. I failed to achieve my desired time/ average speed.

However, I WAS thwarted by the same road construction that has thwarted me the last three times. And i am getting better at semi spinning up the hills, maintaining better speed, and most important, stamina in the latter uphill sections.

I normally stop and rest, buy a candy bar, eat a Gu, just before a vicious 9 minute climb. About an hour and 15 minutes into my ride. I ate the Gu on the bike and hydrated while riding. Don't know if that helped or hurt.

I'll try lowering the seat, the bike does have knobbies on it, I have aired the tyres up to the max and lubed the chain and sprockets. When I bought the bike I didn't know crap about bike riding other than the 1982 to 1990 years while waiting to turn 16 and completely lost interest in riding because I couldn't take chics out. But I figure since I was a large frame I would need a 26in frame. From what I see now I think I should have around a 19in

6'1"
245lbs
inseam 34"

Do you have any bike shops nearby? If so, I'd highly suggest going in a finding the most experienced mechanic/sales guy to pick their brain about sizing and components. You'll learn quite a bit about what has changed by just asking the right questions and looking over the bikes they have to offer. We're always here to help with the details, but you should at least get an idea of what is on the market today for your needs. I would imagine they've changed quite a bit since the purchase of that last bike. FWIW, I'm 5' 10 with a 32" inseam and ride a 19" frame... With setback seat posts and the plethora of stem combinations on the market today, you can really dial in a bike's geometry to fit your comfort and measurements. It's just going to take some time and understanding of what you want out of the cycling experience to get it right. Great job for getting back out there and riding again.

I purchased this one with a new bicycle purchase last weekend and really decided I didn't need the helmet after getting home. I paid $85 as you see on the sticker, but I'll let one of y'all have it for $70 shipped. It says sm/md on size and I normally wear a 7-1/4 fitted hat or large moto helmet.