A few engine problems

Got the engine running. But it gets hot fast, just over 210 degrees & then I shut it off. But the engine, radiator & hoses just don't feel that hot. The electric fans don't even come on unless I over ride them & they are set at its lowest setting of 160 degrees

Could there be an air pocked in the motor, not allowing the water to fully circulate thru out the motor?

When I disconnected the EST wire to time it the engine just did not want to run, and had a difficult time restarting it & keeping it running.

Do I disconnect the EST wire before starting it or during idling?

I removed the spark plugs and they were all black, kind of an oily black, I couldn't wipe it off. They all look the same.

I used NKGR V-power UR5 spark plugs, Should I be using a different plug?

Sounds like the thermostat isn't opening. Try letting the motor get just a little hotter and see if the thermostat will open. Or you can just replace the thermostat, they are kinda notorious for being bad out of the box.

I always drill a .125 hole in my thermostat to prevent thermal shock. In addition it'll provide some flow regardless of what the thermo decides to do.
Maybe get a infrared thermo gun to check things out. they have many uses.

I always drill a .125 hole in my thermostat to prevent thermal shock. In addition it'll provide some flow regardless of what the thermo decides to do.
Maybe get a infrared thermo gun to check things out. they have many uses.

It also allows for a small amount of coolant to flow constantly through the system so that when engine temp gets up to 180-200 and the thermo opens and sends the hot coolant into the radiator, thereby allowing the cold coolant to go through the engine and thermally shocking the block and heads. If you have rapid responding guages, you can watch this happen on the guage, the engine temp will rise to about 210 (depending on the thermo. you have) then it will quickly drop to less than 150, and may do it a few times with less swing in temp each time before engine temp stabilizes. By having the bypass hole in it, it does a more gradual drop when the thermo opens, and eliminates the cycling. Especially on thinner castings which were more prone to cracking, this could make a difference in longevity.

OK, I get it now. Never thought of it like that before. I have the hole in mine and my gauges do just like you say. Tops out at about 210 then rapidly drops to 160 (takes about 2 seconds)
Then it will settle out at about 190.

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