______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
___ _ _______ _______ _ _____ _____ _ _____ _ ___
| _ | / \ | || || | | ___|| ___|| || ___|| | | _ \
||_|| / _ \ |--| |--||--| |--|| | | |___ | |___ | || |___ | | || \ \
| _< / /_\ \ | | | | | | | ___|| ___|| || ___|| | || | |
||_|| / _____ \ | | | | | |____ | |___ | | | || |___ | |___ ||_/ /
|___|/_/ \_\ |_| |_| |______||_____||_| |_||_____||_____||___/
___ _ ___ _____ ___ _ _ ____ _ __ _ _
| _ | / \ | _ \ | ___|| _ || \ / || _ | / \ | \ ||| \ / |
||_|| / _ \ || \ \ | | || ||||\\ //||| |_|| / _ \ ||\ \ || \ \/ /
| _< / /_\ \ || | | | | || |||| \\// ||| __| / /_\ \ || \ \|| \ /
||_|| / _____ \ ||_/ / | |___ ||_|||| \/ ||| | / _ \ || \ | ||
|___|/_/ \_\|___/ |_____||___||| |||_| /___/ \___\|| \_| ||
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
===
Multi-player strategy guide
for the PS3
Version: 1.00
By: Scott Sawyer (A Simple Fox)
Email: DaikazokuThe505@gmail.com
Date of Creation: 6/27/09
Date of last update: 9/12/09
Copyright 2009 Scott Sawyer
===
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
| [M0] Table of contents |
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
[M0] Multi-player
[M1] Unlocks
[M2] Kits
[M3] Tactics
[M4] Point system
[L0] Legal/copyright information
[L1] Credits
[L2] Version history
===
--- Introduction
This guide was made to help out newcomers to BattleField: Bad Company's
online multiplayer mode. It is more or less a beginners' “How To” guide for
each Kit, Map and Unlock. As well as some generally proven tactics that can
and will come in handy on the field. So if you've never played online and
need a step in the right direction, or if you're a veteran of the series just
looking for a new take on the maps, feel free to look around. And if you have
any questions, comments, advice or corrections for the guide, I would greatly
appreciate it if you E-mail me. Thank you.
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [M1] Unlockables |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
Just as the name of the section describes, this section explains all
the unlocakbles you can get in on-line multiplayer. There are three
types of unlockable weapons in Bad Company: Gold weapons, Find all fives
and Credit unlocks. Each are acquired in there own different way.
Golden weapons are obtained in two different ways. You can ether level
up your profile till you hit level 25 or you can buy the gold edition
of Battlefield and get them right off the bat at level one. There is
no difference between the two and that's the only two ways to get them.
There is one gold weapon per kit and it usually has more balanced stats
then the beginning weapons.
The credit unlocks are very simple to unlock. As you level up, you gain
credits. Use them to “buy” your new weapons. This is the only section
that you can unlock items in. it doesn't matter which one you unlock or
in what order you unlock them in. You will get enough credits too unlock
everything so don't sweat it if you pick the wrong one by accident.
Last is the “Find all Five” (FAF) weapons. These weapons are acquired
when you go through a little quest created by the developers. They did
this to reward players that showed extra interest in the game and players
previous played battlefield games. Most of them became unattainable but
DICE has released redeem codes so that 4 out of 5 FAFs are now available
to everyone. Look at their sections for further details.
Each kit has three starter weapons (not shown here), one golden weapon,
one FAF weapon, two credit weapons and one credit item.
---
[M1.1] Assault kit
---
---Gold weapon
AN94 Abakan
--- Credit weapons
M16
XM8
--- Credit item
Life-2
-- Find All Five
FN F2000
the FN F2000 is the hardest to unlock. You have to have registered for
2 battlefield games ( bad company counts as one so you only need one more)
and have an active account with EA. If you have these two, go to the
veterans program from the Bad Company's website and follow their
instructions.
Note: There is no “Unlock Code” released for this Gun. The ONLY way to
get it is though the Veteran program above.
---
[M1.2] Demolition Kit
---
--- Gold weapon
SPAS15
--- Credit weapons
SPAS12
NS2000
--- Credit item
ATM-00
-- Find All Five
USAS 12
the USAS 12 is a lot like the FN F2000. But all you have to do is
link your PSN account with EA account. after you check your stats
on-line at Bad Company's website, you should have it unlocked next
time you log in your PSN account.
Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon.
Unlock code: aw3somef1rep0wer
---
[M1.3] Reconnaissance Kit
---
--- Gold weapon
VSS
--- Credit weapons
SUV
Barret M95
--- Credit Item
LZ-537
-- Find All Five
QBU88
The QBU88 is a sniper rifle that can only be obtained if you have a
redeem code. These redeem codes are sent to you if you pre-ordered
battlefield: bad company. This means the sniper is no longer available
unless you can get a code from someone. Once a code is used, it can't be
used again.
Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon.
Unlock code: your3mynextt4rget
---
[M1.4] Specialist Kit
---
--- Gold weapon
XM8C
--- Credit Weapons
UMP
PP2000
--- Credit Items
C4
-- Find All Five
UZI
The UZI is obtained by maxing out your level in the demo. Simply keep
ranking up till you hit the cap. The demo servers are still up so you
still have an opportunity to get it, but not many players are there
anymore.
Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon.
Unlock code: cov3r1ngthecorn3r
---
[M1.5] Support Kit
---
--- Gold weapon
MG30
--- Credit weapons
XM8 LMG
MG36
--- Credit Items
MRTR-5
-- Find All Five
M60
M60 is unlocked when you sign up for the newsletter. You will receive
a redeem code in your e-mail. It's very simple to do, just go to the
battlefield's website and hit “Newsletter sign up”.
Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon.
Unlock code: try4ndrunf0rcov3r
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [M2] Kits |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
--- Introduction
The kits section is designed to help new players understand the role
of each kit in the game and how to use them effectively. All the kits
rely on each other is it is important to understand how they work
together as well as being able to use them yourself. Mastering all
five can go a long way to archiving victory in any scenario.
---
[M2.1] Assault
Motto: “Velox Fortis Letalis” (“Swift, Brave and Deadly”)
---
--- Intro
The Assault is the least defined of all the kits because they are the
“jack of all trades” kit. If I had to say what their role is, I would
have to say it's more geared to anti-personal then anything else.
Assaults are very good at plowing through enemy ground units, just keep
them away from tanks. Surprisingly enough, they work better for defending
rather then attacking. If they have a demolition with them, they can
hold a bottle neck for a while. Many people don't like the assault
because other classes can be just as effective at anti-personal. But
unlike other classes, they are useful at all ranges and can heal
themselves which means they are self reliant.
--- Glorified door opener
All assault rifles have a grenade luncher attachment. There is no difference
between them, just in the name. Unlike most shooters, the grenade
luncher does very little damage. It's splash is also very low for an
explosive but it's range is decent at least. You wouldn't be using it
for kills thats for sure, unless they are already at critical health.
It is just as the topic implies, its a glorified door opener. You use
it to blow open walls to get through or to expose someone behind cover.
Sometimes if you are lucky you can kill them behind the wall, but that
doesn't happen very often. If you think you can use it against armor,
WRONG! It does pitiful damage against tanks, however it does hurt
Humvees and buggies nicely. Your better off with hand grenades when it
comes to killing but the glorified door opener will come in handy against
targets behind cover..
--- Life 2 (literally)
This is probably the most helpful thing for an assault, autonomy. Now what
do I mean by that? I mean that the Assault is independent and can take
care of itself. With Life 2 the assault never needs to worry about finding
a support and it doesn't need to worry about taking damage when behind
enemy lines. They can also move more freely then specialists. Think
about it, a specialist has to be careful when jumping off buildings and
not hurt themselves. An assault can take fall damage all day and not
worry about it.
Life 2 can bewilder enemies when you hid behind a rock (or such cover).
They come to finish you off and you peek back around with full health to
light them up. An assault player without Life 2 is an assault player that
is usually dead more then alive. Life 2 was the first unlock point I spent
and has to this day has been the most useful of all the unlocks to me.
--- This is my rifle, this is my gun, this is where I have lots of fun.
(corniness intended)
All rifles in the assault kit are assault rifles (yea... go figure...).
All assault rifles come with a grenade launcher attachment. The only
difference between them is in the name. The rifles themselves have good
stopping power but nothing stellar; compact Assault rifles and SMGs
usually pack more of a punch (for some odd reason). The one thing that
really helps the rifle become useful is that it can be used at all ranges.
While the shotgun and compacts rely on close and the sniper on far, the
assault can be used in any situation. Used strategically with life 2, you
can be almost unkillable on the battlefield. But you have to use it to
complement your other items in your kit before it really shines.
For example: you come across a house and you don't know whether its
occupied by hostiles. If there is a window you can lob a hand grenade
inside and flush out anyone hiding. Say after you do that they start
shooting at you from the second floor window, shoot a M203 (or such) to
blow open the wall and then finish them while their dazed. If you happen
to get hit, dive behind a rock and Life 2 yourself to get right back in
the game before they can regroup.
This all sounds well and dandy but the #1 thing that kills assaults is
tanks. If you see a tank, run! Your rifle does nothing to it. Yes your
grenades do a little damage, but they only do about 8 damage a nade. An
assault versus a tank will always lose. They also have a little trouble
close range with shotguns and compacts. So know your limitations with the
assault rifle and stick to anti-personal only kills. The assault is a
great kit when used correctly.
---
[M2.2] Demolition
Motto: “Peto Et Eradico” (“Seek and Destroy”)
---
--- Intro
As you might have guessed, this kit specializes in destroying stuff.
If you're like Haggard and love to see things explode, this is the kit
for you. The Demolition has the anti-vehicle role much in the way the
assault has the anti-personal role. And with the Demolition's array of
explosives, that shouldn't be to hard. The demo also has a shotgun which
has very impressive stopping power and range. You should familiarize
yourself with the Demolition kit because you'll find a lot of vehicle maps
call for it. Not too mention its fun to use.
--- the Demo man
Like I just said above, the demolition role is anti-vehicle. Taking
down those pesky tanks can go along way, just ask anyone. Your main weapon
for this job is the rocket luncher. This bad boy is the most accurate
rocket luncher I have ever seen in any game... ever. Hell! You can snipe
snipe snipers with this thing! It's draw back is that this thing has no
splash. Yea, I know right? No splash? No splash. Unless you hit the them
dead in the chest, it will do almost no damage. I guess the programmers
didn't want it to use over used or maybe their logic is that it's an
anti-armor rocket. Whatever the reason, stick to blowing up vehicles.
One or two well placed rockets will stop a transport. Tanks however can
sometimes take forever to die. To the point where it's sometimes quicker
to just run up and chuck a mine under the treads.
The best place to aim a rocket is the rear of a tank. For more info, see
the tank damage chart provided in the tactics section. [SEE M3.1]
--- I'll AT your mine
after playing demolition for a while, you'll soon realize that Anti
Tank (AT) mines are your best weapon against a tank. AT mines take out
all vehicles in one shot when run over. You can't chuck them very far so
you have to either: place them ahead of time, or run up and throw them
under the vehicle. If you place them ahead of time, always keep one on you
in case a tank tries to run you over. If you see a tank backing up, throw
it at your feet and try to lure them toward you. Try not to mine large
areas as the chances of catching a tanks lowers. Go for concentrated areas
where tanks have to funnel in to continue. When used in a sneaky fashion,
AT mines can single handedly stop a column of tanks so it's usefulness
should not be underestimated. You can also use them for car bombs which
I'll explain in the tactics section [SEE M3.4]
--- This is my Boom-Stick!
Ah yes... the shotgun. Truly a classic weapon. The shotgun is the
mirror opposite of the sniper rifle, one is single shot accuracy from a
mile away, the other is a spray of hot lead for 30 feet. Love it or hate
it, the shotgun is one of the most feared (or should I say hated) weapons
on the battlefield. There are three types of shotguns in battlefield that
play differently from each other and trade off strengths and weaknesses.
The pump, the semi and the auto.
The pump shotgun is the one everyone is familiar with. Nothing like
turning the conner to drop to the ground dead before you can react. If
you are going with the pump, the two I recommend is the SPAS 12 or the
NS2000. Both are pumps but effective at different ranges. The SPAS 12
has more spray then the NS2000 and works better at close range because
they spray allows you to just aim toward them and fire without worrying
about aiming. The NS2000 has more of a “big bullet” feel to its shell
because of it's low spread. It's more suited for longer range shotgunning
then the other pumps.
The semis are kinda unremarkable. They are the balance between the pump
and the auto. You need to fire them in quick succession to get the kill
and it takes a few shots. Don't expect the nice “Ker-plow! Dead!” feel
that the pumps have.
As for the auto, the USAS12, it's more of an assault rifle then a
shotgun. Hold down the trigger and it continually fires. Perfect for
medium range combat thats too far for the other shotguns, and if you
miss... so what? You got plenty more in your clip. Thats right, clip.
Instead of loading one shell at a time you can load them all at once.
While this is faster, you can't shoot till your done unlike the others.
No shotgun is better then the other, it's all a matter of preference.
Pick the one thats going to get the job done. When I'm a demo I find
myself switching around my weapons more than any other kit.
---
[M2.3] Reconnaissance
Motto: “Velox Silens Letalis” (“Swift, Silent and Deadly”)
---
--- intro
Reconnaissance (aka Sniper) is a specialized role for the squad. Just
as the name implies, you are meant to scout ahead of your squad. A recon,
can really rack up some assists and light up the enemy positions on your
team's mini-map. A sniper inside (or just outside) a base can really hem
down an advance from the enemy. They also take out tanks from a distance,
which can help when a demo can't get close enough. They can make great
respawn points when they are close to the enemy base. As useful as snipers
are, too many of them on your team can put you at a disadvantage. I
suggest no more then about 2 snipers in a map. If you see 5 snipers on
your side... don't be one too...
--- BOOM! HEADSHOT!
if you are using a bolt action rifle, patience is key. All rounds do
about 90 damage to everywhere on the body. So if you want that want
that beautiful one hit kill, you have to aim for the head. Every shot
should be a head shot, why? I'll explain. If you are behind enemy lines,
it is important that you don't just shoot off and give yourself away. If
it's a head shot then they will get no damage recital and that will make
finding you that much harder. You can aim for the body if they are
already spotted. Why? If they are already spotted, nine times out of ten
they are already hurt, which means 90 damage will be enough to kill them
very easily. You have to eject your shell after every shot and that can
ruin your pan if you miss. You will need to be very good at leading shots
if you are going to hit running targets.
--- Death from above
Not only can Recons kill enemy foot soldiers from a distance but they can
also kill vehicles from a distance. Didn't see that coming... Anyway using
a laser designator, they can paint any vehicle or emplacement and call a
guided missile to fall on it. When you paint a target, the missile just
doesn't fall on it. You have to manually guide the missile toward the
target. It takes awhile to get used to but when you do, it can be the
best anti-vehicle weapon in the game. The problem with it is that when
you paint a vehicle, a warning notifies the target that you are trying
to paint them. Usually when they hear this they either bail out or do
some tricky driving to make you lose your connection. A popular and
sneaky way around this is to paint a emplacement near your target, and
guide it into the real one. The enemy vehicle has no idea your about to
strike them because the alarm only goes of if you are actively painting
them. Try not to go for foot solders because the splash is very small
and it can be difficult to hit them dead in the head. If they bail out,
just destroy the vehicle like you were going to. At least you'll get some
points rather then risking a miss and having them hop right back in.
--- I see you...
The first time I used it, I couldn't figure out what it did. It looked
like a grenade but it didn't explode and just made a beeping noise. Little
did I know this was the beginning of a beautiful relationship. The
motion sensor grenade is one of your more useful squad based gadgets.
It sends out pulses that lights up enemy in the area and puts them on
the map. This can be very helpful to both you and all of your teammates.
Ever get that weird feeling when you are sniping, you know, you feel like
your not alone? Well, pop one of these down and see if someone is sneaking
up on you. How many times have I been saved by throwing down a sensor and
seeing a red dot creeping behind me with his blade out. Also, popping a
sensor into buildings and chock points can really help your teammates
figure out where the enemy is attacking from. On small maps or tight
building to building combat this can turn the tide of a battle. Lastly
it also makes for a great way to look for specialists. Pop a few around
your base to make sure they are not getting the drop on you.
---
[M2.4] Specialist
Motto: “Velox Silens Letalis” (“Swift, Silent and Deadly”)
---
--- Intro
The name “Specialist” really doesn't quite capture what they are. They
don't really specialize in anything, other then kicking your ass. Like
the Recon, the specialist requires stealth and teamwork to be of an
advantage to the team. They are a little bit of a mix between classes.
They can take out foot soldiers almost as well as an assault. They can
take on armored vehicles like a demolition and can identify enemy units
for other to take them out like Recons. They do these jobs so well, that
most people wounder if you really need the other kits in the game. They
have their ups and downs like any other class but if played right, can
wreck an enemies lines in no time.
--- Silent and deadly
All of the weapons that the specialists used are suppressed. Suppressed
weapons in this game allow you to shoot hostile players without alerting
them to your position. Because of this perk combined with the fact that
the specialist weapons are very powerful at close range, makes it that
sneaking into an enemy base is child's play. If an opposing Recon doesn't
pop Motion Sensors every now and then, you'll find yourself behind their
lines more then they are. This allows you to take your time and pick off
priority targets. Destroying objectives with the C4 or capturing flags
before anyone even realizes your there. And if someone does come by, pop
pop pop, and they are down before they can react. Keep in mind of course,
that they kit is only as sneaky as you are. Going through the front door
all Rambo style, isn't exactly sneaky.
--- C4 & you
C4, composition 4 or tasty cakes. Whatever you want to call it, no one
can deny C4 is one of the most useful weapons on the battlefield. You can
set up one of them at a time and detonate or set them all up and detonate
the whole pile, it's up to you. If you plan to use this weapon you need
to plan ahead with your attacks. You won't be using it on foot solders
(it's impractical and your suppressed gun is more helpful) but vehicles
are its prime target. Now there are two ways to get a vehicle. Have it
almost run you over (or run up to it yourself), throw a pack on it, take
a few steps back and BOOM! Bye bye tank! They other way is to place them
along the ground like AT mines and detonate them as the vehicles come.
This is less popular because it's hard to funnel vehicles in one spot
and you waste most of the packs in the process. On a side note; One C4
pack is an instant kill for all vehicles, you don't need to go overboard
if you see a heavy tank.
C4 on objectives can be particularly effective. Instead of planting a
charge you have to watch in Gold Rush, you can just throw all your C4
on it and take out a HUGE chunk of its health. Be care though, if you
die you can't detonate the C4 when you respawn. You used to be able to
do this before the Conquest patch and it made taking out the crates
insanely easy. It was one of the better kept secret glitches of the
game and it's a shame it was found out. But don't get your hopes down,
the patch just turned the C4 from a broken weapon to a excellent weapon.
Which can be good or bad depending on who you ask.
--- “I know you like Christmas trees but they're for vehicles, not snipers.”
The tracer gun, another weapon I couldn't figure out how to use when I
first started playing. I thought it was a tranquilizer gun and would
run up to people and shoot it at them point blank. Needless to say I
died a lot and I learned what it really did later on. It still think
it would be cool to have one but enough of my reminiscing, lets talk
about the tracer gun.
The tracer gun shoots a small sticky object that blinks onto a nearby
target. When it hits a vehicle it is “marked” or “traced”. When this
happens, all friendly Demolition rocket launchers home in on said “traced”
vehicle. This can be very helpful for your team because anything you
trace will not disappear from the map and it makes the Demolition's
job that much easier for them. You even get points for helping out in
this way. If you can sneak into the enemy's base and trace all the vehicles
you have a Enormous advantage over the other team. And lets not forget
helicopters. Tracing one of those will give you the gratitude of all the
demos on your team and then some!
Unfortunately, I do have to remind people that tracers are for vehicles
and not people. Some people online like to make “Christmas trees” out of
their teammates. This is done by tracing a friendly sniper multiple times
to make him blink and by comparison, look like a Christmas tree due to
their Gilly suits. While this is a past time to those who dislike snipers
it is counter-productive to the team as a whole. You are wasting tracers
on teammates that can really help out the team. You also make it so that
your snipers get picked off by other snipers easily (big red glowing
light in the woods? Thats not noticeable...) and finally if you shoot
them in the face, they can't see. Which makes sniping for them,
extremely hard. While some people do it to show how useless they think
the sniper is, they ironically make the sniper in question less helpful
then before. If you are going to make Christmas trees, at least do it
around the holiday.
---
[M2.5] Support
Motto: “Luncti Vincemus” (“Together we Conquer”)
---
--- intro
The most unique of all the kits is the Support. Their job is to help
the other kits with living. Simple enough right? Well, it's not. As it
turns out, not many people let you help them online. Most will run away
from you or just kill you and take the health kits themselves. Supports
take a lot of slack for not doing their job, well prove them wrong. A
smart and helpful support player is a great asset to any team. Especially
when you are running low on respawn tickets in the different game modes.
They can heal, repair and call in mortar strikes while giving supportive
fire. They hit the nail on the head when they made this kit.
--- Get up silly, there's chocolate pudding back at the base!
The med kit / health pack is like the life 2 only it heals a little slower
and over a small area (apposed to just healing the user). When you throw
one down, any teammate that comes by will receive health. That's good
right? You can just throw them everywhere and your teammates will never
die! Nope, enemies can also sometimes pick up these packs making it
counter productive. For Example: I remember rushing into a room and
killing a support guarding the objective. He had already laid down
health packs when I got him. Every time someone would come to get me
away from the objective, I would kill them and be healed by the kits
that the enemy support laid down. This isn't to say not to use them,
it's just that you have to be careful that they aren't used against you.
Also a quick note, if you are a support and you see a friendly in front
of you, staring at you. Throw them a health pack. The three international
signs for “give me health” is 1.) standing in front of you, looking you
right in the eye. 2.) jumping in front of you. 3.) crouching up and down
in front of you. If you don't give them health, some friendlies will
shoot at you to get your attention, others will go as far as kill you
for your kit. So throw them a pack, you'll live, they'll live and you
get 15 points out of it. It's a win-win-win situation.
Another side note, pay attention to your mini-map when playing a support.
It will have a blinking health symbol near wounded friendlies. And I'm
sure they will be very happy with you if you took time to hop down to
give them some health.
--- call me a “grease monkey” one more time...
This is almost along the same exact lines as the health pack only with
vehicles. Your power tool can quickly heal friendly and neutral vehicles
when used on them. Unlike the health pack, you can only repair one vehicle
at a time. The power tool can be used to “Deconstruct” hostile vehicles
as well. It's a little dangerous but Deconstructing a tank is a nice way
to panic the driver inside. That and there is sometime funny about
seeing “You Power-Tool-Symbol Otherguy” on the ticker. You can also
Power Tool foot soldier and kill them that way to if you want to
humiliate them. Make sure you take a picture of that though, it's always
funny to show people!
Anyway, just like the health packs, when a wounded friendly vehicle is
nearby you will see a blinking wrench symbol on your mini-map. Take the
time to help them and not only to you help the war effort a little bit
but you get this cool 15 points as well.
--- when it rains, it pours...
Mortar Strikes are an interesting and useful weapon but you don't think
they behave like the Howitzer. You aim them at a target and hold down the
fire button until the coordinates are relayed. Unlike the Laser designator
which requires a vehicle or emplacement to be painted, mortars can be
called in any where. Also unlike the designator, it isn't controlled,
where ever you aimed it, it will fall. Needless to say, be careful where
you aim it. If you are hiding in a bush and are trying to call in a
mortar, you might accidentally call the strike on the bush you're hiding
in. It happens more then you think.
The problem is it's not exactly accurate, it calls in multiple rounds to
land near your target and if it's moving you'll probably miss. It does
very nice damage to foot soldiers but a pitiful amount to armored targets.
My advice it use it to destroy cover and clear off rooftops. Also try to
use it in hemmed in areas. While the enemy is moving toward cover, it can
give your teammates the chance to make their move. When used correctly it
can be a very helpful item. When used incorrectly, you can rack up team
kills just as fast as a Howitzer.
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [M3] Tactics |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
--- Introduction
This section is a quick overview of various tactics that can be used
in just about any level. Most of (nearly all of) the tips were given
to me by some very experienced players of the game so play close
attention to the advice they give you. This is especially true if
you want to master vehicle combat.
---
[M3.1] Tank Damage Chart
---
(All Credit for tank info goes to TheRazgrizDemon)
This is a small chart to illustrate how tanks give and receive damage.
It's not so much a tactic but it's very useful information to know,
especially if you are a Demo or tank driver. Keep in mind that all these
figures are not set in stone and can fluctuate due to hit detection and
splash damage.
Note: this is all RPGs and all tanks. They do the same damage, the only
difference is the name.
- RPG vs Light Tank
Front: 38
Side: 44
Rear: 73
Turret:24
- RPG vs Heavy Tank
Front: 24
Side: 36
Rear: 67
Turret:24
- Light Tank vs Light Tank
Front: 8
Side: 8
Rear: 8
Turret:6
- Light Tank vs Heavy Tank
Front: 4
Side: 5
Rear: 9
Turret:4
- Heavy Tank vs Light Tank
Front: ?
Side: ?
Rear: ?
Turret:?
- Heavy Tank vs Heavy Tank
Front: 30
Side: 46
Rear: 78
Turret:30
---
[M3.2] Tank Tips
---
(All Credit goes to TheRazgrizDemon. I edited it for better flow.)
--- Heavy tank.
If you are in a tank, you are slow and you will get shot at. So it should
be no surprise to you that you'll take damage from all directions. If your
going to drive a tank, it is helpful to play as a support. That way you can
retreat to a safe distance and repair your tank when necessary.
Now,
depending on your personnel preference, you may find it hard to judge when
to get up close and when to stay back. The main gun has a long range, and
is very powerful, you can take out troops, stationary guns, tanks,
choppers, and gold crates with it. If you stay back, you can avoid
incoming fire and act as a buffer for advancing troops,
If you get up
close you can use buildings as cover however, enemy infantry can hide
behind walls as well. They can use this to your disadvantage and get
close to you. It's always a good idea to take a gunner with you for
close anti infantry/chopper support.
As a tank, you take damage
differently depending on where you are hit. The front of the tank is
the most resistant, so in any engagements, point the front of the tank
towards the enemy. One RPG does 24 damage to the front compared to 67
when hit in the rear. When fighting enemy tanks, as well as keeping the
front to your enemy, exploit the week spots of other tanks. More damage
can be done to the rear than the side, and to the ride rather than the
front. Use this to your advantage then aiming your shots.
Jeeps, buggies
and infantry all get blown up in one shot, so just aim and fire. Splash
damage should kill anything near in case you miss.
--- Light Tank
A few of the same rules apply as the heavy tank, except you are faster.
Use this speed to get away from any bad situations. Your cannon is a
great anti infantry weapon, but against heavy tanks you don't stand much
of a chance. Either get away from it, or use your speed to circle it and
hit him from behind.
It's best to just give fire support however to
another heavy tank.
---
[M3.3] Attack Helicopter
---
(All Credit goes to ic3b3rgslim. I just edited it a little.)
Take out the AA cannon first, even if there is nobody on it. Even if you
just take that out and need to heal the chopper immediately after, do it
anyways just to have an advantage on your next attack run. If you don't
know your gunner, and he isn't a support troop, then make sure you choose
the support kit so you can heal the chopper with the support kits drill.
Many times your target will be moving, so be sure to lead your target. What
i do is shoot one or two missiles to get an idea of how fast the tank is
going, and then i begin to unload. If you see a tank standing still, then
shoot FFARs very slowly, and very accurately at him. By the time the 4th
or 5th FFAR hits he will probably be moving. This is when you move in
close and unload the entire volley. If you do this correctly, you should
have nearly a full volley loaded in the chopper, and you'll have already
hit him with 4-6 FFARs. This should kill the tank, and if the driver hops
out, give your gunner a clean shot to kill the soldier and get on with
your attacking. Use this tactic on stationary vehicles like the AA gun
as well. I have taken out the AA gun before he has started shooting simply
because he did not have time to move the gun to shoot towards me before
he died.
If you get a chance, one thing to practice is flying very low to the
ground. You will see some less advanced pilots hover at the top level
of the map, while they let their gunner do the work. This is a decent
tactic, however the detriments outweigh the benefits. If you hold a
hover up high like that you will be prone to any and every type of fire,
and a hovering target is a rocket magnet. If you learn to fly low, you
can get away from gunfire much more quickly simply because most of the
enemy team cannot see you. This also works as an approach tactic. If you
don't want the AA to see you, go to the far right on Oasis and fly a few
feet off the ground. When u get to the small building, hover behind it,
and when you're ready, unload your volley on the AA. This is useful even
if the AA sees you at first, because he cannot hit you behind the building.
You can do similar things on End of the Line by memorizing AA gun locations
and coming at angles that the AA gunner cannot see from. Another more
advanced tank tactic calls for a keen eye. When you start shooting a
tank and he is moving and then stops when you hit him, watch the symbol
above the tank to see if it changes slightly. This will mean that the
driver has moved to the 50 caliber machine gun on top of the tank to
try and mow you down. If you see this, then get low and get fast as
fast as possible. The worst thing you can do in that situation is hover.
The way around this is to have your gunner aim for the top of the tank.
The gunner of the tank is exposed so if the gun of the apache lands on
the top of the tank a few times in the right place, you might not get a
vehicle kill, but you will get a kill and save your behind at the same
time.
Speaking of behind, the best place to hit a tank is in the rear. The
light tanks seem to take damage evenly, but the heavy tanks are VERY weak
in the rear. Even if you don't get direct rockets onto the tank, make sure
to hit NEAR the back, because the splash damage of a missile to the back
of a tank is greater than a direct hit to the front or side or top of the
tank.
---
[M3.4] Car Bombs
---
Car Bombing or Road side bombs are a very effective and sneaky way to stop
enemies from using vehicles, while still allowing your buddies to use them.
If your a demo, place one of your AT mines underneath the vehicle. If you
get it right, no matter where they move when they get in, BOOM! Free kill.
You can really rack up kills if you sneak into the enemy base and place
the mines under all the vehicles in the base. You can also set one up
yourself. How do you do that? Grab a tank with full health and drive it
near the enemy base. Get out and place a mine underneath it like normal
and leave. As long as you don't die, the mine will stay there. Think
about it, if you see a perfectly good tank sitting there, wouldn't you
take it? I would hop right in, never thinking about crouching to look
underneath, and I would be dead.
The same thing can be done with C4 but you have to watch it to know
when to detonate it. Also if you use C4 you can't use another till you
set it off the first unless you want to blow it prematurely. A good
thing about C4 is that you can hide it in some sneaky places. In the
grill or inside the turret are some good spots.
You can use either but I find the AT one to be more effective.
---
[M3.5] Getting health as a specialist/reconnaissance/demolition
---
Normally the way for these classes to heal themselves is to find a
support that will throw a health pack at them. But if there are no
supports in the area you can still heal yourself if you find their bags.
I don't see people using this trick as much as they should. As it makes
life easier not having to worry about straying to far from your supports.
If you kill a support and take damage, use his kit to your advantage.
Just make use the area is safe before doing so. You'll get caught with
your pants down if an enemy comes around the corner and you're fiddling
with the kit switching. This trick also works well with assault kits
because of their life 2. I actually prefer it because the life 2 heals
much quicker then the health packs.
---
[M3.6] Neutralize Vehicles
---
If you have time and are lucky, you can make it so that the enemy team
will never be able to use a vehicle again. if you see an enemy vehicle,
take it and drive out of bounds with it. Bail out and sprint back to
safety. If you do it right, they can't get at the tank without killing
themselves. If they get in the vehicle and suicide, it will respawn.
But nine times out of ten, they give up on it. Since it never gets
destroyed, it takes forever to respawn. So you just neutralized it
and made it a royal pain to get it back.
---
[M3.7] Ninja Kit
---
While this tactic is generally disliked, it is a very effective way to get
dogtags. The “Ninja kit” is not a new kit, but a way of using the Recon
kit and abuse it's motion sensor balls. You don't use the Sniper rifle, pistol
or JDAM. You only use the Motion and the knife. The tactic is to hide in a
high foot traffic area and pop motion balls around. Sneak up and knife
unsuspecting enemies. Because the Knife is One-Hit-Kill, as long as you get
10 meters away, you are almost guaranteed a knife kill. This tactic is
dangerous if you are not good at knifing or are not good at ambushing people.
But a good “Ninja” can get up to 15 knives a round.
Warning: This can make you become TOO reliant on motion balls and unable
to Knife (or worse... kill) without them. Exercise moderation when using this
strategy.
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [M4] Point system |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
In a nutshell, this is how you gain points, which translates into
experience. The more points you get, the more your helping out the
team, it's that simple.
---
All Kits, All Game-modes
---
+ 10 +(0 to 25) points
knifing an enemy. (you get as much extra points as is their level.)
+10 points
killing an enemy
destroying a hostile vehicle
+6 points
avenge award (killing a teammate's killer in less then a few seconds of
the kill)
+5 points
savor award (killing an enemy that was attacking a teammate)
Get a head shot with a weapon
+3 points
Get an assist (damage an enemy and have a teammate finish them off)
-10 points
damaging a teammate
-15 points
Killing a teammate
---
Specialist
---
+3 points
trace a vehicle and have a demolition shoot a rocket at it.
---
Support
---
+15 points
heal a teammate
Repair a friendly vehicle
---
Gold Rush
---
+30 points
Destroying an objective (if attacking)
+10 points
defusing a charge
objective damage (if attacking)
+3 points
objective defend (kill an enemy near the objective? )
-10 points
Objective damage (if defending)
---
Conquest
---
+30 points
Capture a Flag
+10 points
Assist in capturing a Flag
+3 points
Objective Defend (kill an enemy near a friendly flag?)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
| [L0] Legal/copyright information (the boring necessary stuff) |
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
This Guide is published by Scott Sawyer This means that if you
wish to: display, copy, edit, link or in anyway use the information
contained within this article, you must gain permission from me
to do so. I have no problem with anyone wishing to use this guide, to
help them with the game itself. However, I do have a problem if: you are
stealing our work and passing it off as your own or using our work for your
own monetary profit. Please respect my hard work and the other
walk-through creators out there. Thank you.
The only sites that have permission to host this guide is:
http://www.Gamefaqs.com/
http://www.daikazokuclan.com/
other sites, such as other FAQ/Walk-through type sites or our own personal
sites, will be added at our discretion.
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [L1] Credits |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
Ah... the credits. The part of the paper everyone skips over because it's
boring. The only reason you would read it, is if you were looking for you
name to tell all your buddies how cool you are. Well we wouldn't be able
to write this walk-through without the help of these cool people, pointing
out our mistakes and overlooks. So thanks to all who helped!
Scott S => Writer
From GameFaqs.com:
ic3b3rgslim => For all the advice on the helicopters. It's nice to have
a veteran pilot helping out!
TheRazgrizDemon => For all the help with the tanks!
Samehadamaru => For help with the Tactics section.
Special thanks to:
Answerbag.com for the Latin translations
DICE for making a kick ass game.
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| [L2] Version history |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
Version 1.00 (9/12/09) => Finished sections.
May add Gold-Rush and Conquest maps later.
Version 0.80 (7/2/09) => Finished Introduction.
Finished Unlockables Section.
Added Tactics to Tactics Section.
Finished Points Section.
Version 0.50 (6/27/09) => Separated Multi-player Sections from
Main guide to make this FAQ. Still incomplete.
---