Scene: Lambert & Ewers recently opened in the Hub food court in downtown Des Moines. It offers traditional lunch fare and carries on the meat-shop lineage of the longtime Valley Junction business of the same name, which closed last spring.

Take your pick from a range of sandwiches, with sides ranging from chips to soup to potato and pasta salads. Then pick up smoked turkey, ham, bacon and more — sold by the pound — to take home.

Food: The Lambert & Ewers reputation for quality smoked meats rightly means the sandwich bases are the star of the show here. We tried a roast beef on hoagie ($6.29) piled high with thin, flavorful slices and the BLT on egg bread ($8.99), which was loaded with a quarter pound of smoky, thick-cut bacon.

The BLT had fresh lettuce and bright-red tomato slices (despite it being February) along with a tangy mayo. The roast beef’s toppings were a switch from the expected, capped off by red wine-and-brown sugar caramelized onions that that gave the sandwich a sweeter flavor. It also featured a spread of chive cream cheese.

The roast beef came with chips, and a mellow potato salad complimented the BLT. Both came with a pickle. Fountain drinks ($1.25) rounded out the meal.

Service: The cashier and kitchen staff were friendly and accommodating, offering to make suggestions for new customers unsure of what to order.

Bottom line: If you’re looking for a hearty serving of protein to power through an afternoon at the office, Lambert & Ewers delivers, and is a welcome addition to the downtown lunch scene.