Hey all here is a quick write-up on the items above, with links to all the products I bought in case you want to do the same. I preface my posts with, I am fairly unskilled. I don't have a great set of tools. I am trying to learn, this is my first vehicle where I am learning how to do everything myself. I apologize for any mis-information or any terms I am using incorrectly. What I want is for everyone to know that you can handle these jobs with just a little know-how, some cheap tools and some ambition. I recently also did plugs, egr, pcv, map, catch can, serpentine belt, oil change, transfer case and dif fluid change. I was less skilled then than I am now. Each project I learn (and take multiple trips to harbor freight / home depot). All my "know-how" has come from how-to's here, other forums & you tube. I have no real mechanical teacher or guru... Here goes nothing.

The install of this was pretty straight forward. Remove the rear bumper by following the next few steps. Remove the 4 pins on the step pad. Remove 6 rivets on the wheel wells (3 on each side). Reach up into the wheel well and feel around for the 10MM bolt (hard to see, you'll find it, be patient). Remove the 4 rivets under the bumper. At this point the bumper should come off. Next take the 2 rivets out of the small black plastic frame (energy absorbed) attached to the underside of the bumper support.

Now bolt that new hitch on using the provided 4 bolts, be sure to Torque to the recommended specs. My torque wrench only goes to 80 so I maxed it out and then cranked on it a lot more.

Next is the scary part, cutting the bumper to install the bezel. The back side of the bumper has a line etched into it for all the cuts including the holes for the clips and bolts. People say rub chalk on it so you can see it better, had no chalk, I outlined it with sharpie. Easy to see. I put painters tape on the finished side of the bumper (clean it first, tape doesn't stick well to polish or dust) so my cutting wouldn't damage anything. The bezel provides some security if you don't cut perfect. Its about 1 inch thick, so there is your margin for error, if your cut is too big you risk seeing it behind the bezel or worse your bezel not fitting. I put my bumper on the tops of two chairs, kinda made saw horses, and secured it with bungees while I was cutting. I made my cuts all just inside the line, I used a dremel with a cutting wheel. Super easy to get through, the plastic also melted a bit when I was cutting, beware of flying gobs of molten plastic, wear goggles. My cuts were atrocious, and curves were more of angles because of the tool I was using, but I made all my "mistakes" inside the lines so the cut wasn't too big. Can always cut more later, can't cut less later. I used a drill bit to cut out the clip & bolt holes. Pilot hole at each end then just kinda forced the drill bit to cut out the rest of the holes with some maneuvering & force. Not pretty, but worked. After all my cutting, to my surprise, the bezel clipped right in with a satisfying "click" and then I just screwed the supplied bolts on. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE. Get them snug and stop. I also put some gorilla glue on all the bolts and clip openings, can't hurt!

Then just put the bumper on in the reverse order of taking it off. The whole process took me about 45 minutes. Also - Get this riveter form Harbor Freight, lifesaver, cheap!

D-Rings - http://www.amazon.com/CSI-W511-D-Rin...eywords=d-ring
These were smaller than I expected, apparantly there is another identical looking one which is beefier. However the shackle mounts seem snug, I tried my rear hitch D-ring and it wouldn't fit. So I'm happy I got the smaller ones for the front. I'm gonna go to home depot and test fit some bigger ones. But for now I'm fine with the smaller ones.

The process. Remove the front bumper by first removing the top rivets that hold in the grille, should be 6 I believe. Grille then comes right out. Then remove rivets in wheel wells. Remove the 10MM Flathead Screw/Bolt in the wheel well above the rivets on each side. Under the truck in the center there are 3 bolts that hold the bumper on, remove them also. I believe that's, I may be forgetting a rivet, but it's pretty straight forward to get it off. There are write up's on here. Then remove the 2 black square "cups" mounted to the bumper support with 1 10mm bolt each. That will open up a hole and you'll see the mounting holes for the shackle mounts.

Getting the bolts in these holes is a bit tricky, the space is tight, it's kinda like mini golf, I was just kinda tossing the back bolt in and hoping it fell in the hole which It did eventually. I'm sure there is a better way, this is just what I did. Now put the bracket up to the bolts, hand tighten the nuts onto the bolts. The most tricky part was tightening / torquing. Be sure you have a box wrench with a slight angled head to hold the top bolts while you crank away at the underside nuts with the torque wrench and socket. Again it calls for some pretty high torque. I went to the max on my wrench and then just muscled it a lot more.
Now just put the bumper back on in the reverse order you took it off.

Rola Roof rack. - I thought this was gonna be easy but it was a bit of a pain. I had this rack on my WJ with the extension in. It looked huge and silly. I took it off and had it behind my shed for about 6 months. When I first installed it I used Black RTV on all the parts where it connected, and all the screws, I heard these tend to take on water, rust and leak rusty water. I never had the issue since I sealed it so well, however it made it a bitch to take the extension piece out and put it back together in it's normal smaller size. I took out all the screws and then used a few ratchet straps to pull it apart. Like a midevel torture (think being drawn & quartered), I cranked down harder and harder (each strap was connected to a deck post in my back yard). Slowly but surely I was able to pull them and whack them with a rubber mallet till they came apart. Sanded off the old RTV, re applied fresh RTV and re-connected the 2 halves without the extension. When it dried I test fit it to see if it would look silly on my truck before the lift but it looked great so I decided to move forward with the install.

This just clips onto your factory roof rails with the supplied mounts and hardware. No write up necessary. All I can say is make sure to seal EVERY SINGLE SCREW HOLE (WIND DEFLECTOR & CONNECTION POINTS) AND ALL THE CONNECTION POINTS, INSIDE AND OUT. Wouldn't wanna risk rust leaking on to my gorgeous WK. I'm gonna take it off and put a nice fresh coat of bed armor on it soon.