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Post by VapingBad on Sept 15, 2016 0:02:11 GMT

I'm currently vaping at 0.05ohms with an Aromamizer on a DNA200 chip with 2 cells (133w max) at 40w. Ni200. A fantastic vape, but re-wicking is an issue. I usually just re-coil at the same time, as the wire becomes far too soft to allow a decent re-wick without needing the coils to be reworked into shape. All in all, an excellent vape, when I can be bothered to do the work required.

I like the Ni200, but when the roll is used up, I won't buy any more.

Probably....

Twisting really helps with Ni200 Tim, in that tank I love high horizontal tipple twisted 0.2 mm Ni 200 ID 2 mm 9 wraps. Rewicking is easy if you just put your fingers on the coil to support it a little. Or try SS, it is probably the nicest wire to work with.

I just don't recognise a lot of what people re saying about temp limiting, there is a small learning curve than it is no more hassle than anything else, probably less as wicks and coils last longer. To me it is the norm, I haven't once wanted to go back in the last 2 years. I find NI a absolute doddle to coil with it's just rewicking and low res that are issues IMO, but that low res has be far less of an issue in the last year as mods have caught up. I do have a couple of Kanthal builds to test mods on and the flavour is just not there, though they are on Kayfun 2s and Krakens and I have not spent much time on it as I see little point other than academic. IMO you lose nothing with temp limiting and I gain faster heat up allowing me to take shorter more satisfying puffs, cleaner wicks and cleaner flavour. But flavour is very subjective and almost certainly different liquids like different temp so that can be elusive, but I can't recall anyone saying it was worse flavour.

Someone on ECF asked for a temp sensing 101 and I answered the following a few days ago and no one has disagreed with it so far.

Quick pointers that instantly spring to mind for those new to temp limiting

• You need good clean and tight connections, poor connection are the the most common cause of "issues".

• Fit new coils at room temperature, the mod and coils should be close to the same temp so the board can get a good base resistance reading. If that reading is out then temp sensing will be.

• Use spaced coils.

• Not enough vapour? it's the same basics as everything else: airflow, wicking and coil contact area and you probably need to increase one or more of these. IMO coil contact area is the most overlooked, more loops or dropping wire size & twisting are the easiest ways to fix it.

• Locking ohms is the last resort for poor connection issues (unless your mod only functions that way). Most decent temp limiting boards will track the board temp and coil temp as they cool to get a more accurate base resistance value.

• Don't max watts, at least at first as if for some other reason like the base/cold resistance was high you can overpower your coil.

Post by VapingBad on Sept 15, 2016 0:15:07 GMT

After reading posts #14 & #15 I should point out I only use DNAs now and started temp limiting with them. I have owned other temp limiting mods from clones to Evic Minis and SX Mini M class, the Evic was better than the SXM at about a fifth of the price, but it's still rough around the edges and need regular effort to live with it.

Post by drunkenbum on Sept 15, 2016 11:43:42 GMT

I vape TC almost exclusively and now I'm used to it I find ni as easy to work with as kanthal. I don't tend to use TC on anything other than my DNA's or SXJ's as I find the cheap boards don't regulate very well in Temp mode. I've got a simple ni build that works in most tanks and gives excellent vapour production and flavour.

Post by tim on Sept 15, 2016 20:55:26 GMT

I'm currently vaping at 0.05ohms with an Aromamizer on a DNA200 chip with 2 cells (133w max) at 40w. Ni200. A fantastic vape, but re-wicking is an issue. I usually just re-coil at the same time, as the wire becomes far too soft to allow a decent re-wick without needing the coils to be reworked into shape. All in all, an excellent vape, when I can be bothered to do the work required.

I like the Ni200, but when the roll is used up, I won't buy any more.

Probably....

Twisting really helps with Ni200 Tim, in that tank I love high horizontal tipple twisted 0.2 mm Ni 200 ID 2 mm 9 wraps. Rewicking is easy if you just put your fingers on the coil to support it a little. Or try SS, it is probably the nicest wire to work with.

I just don't recognise a lot of what people re saying about temp limiting, there is a small learning curve than it is no more hassle than anything else, probably less as wicks and coils last longer. To me it is the norm, I haven't once wanted to go back in the last 2 years. I find NI a absolute doddle to coil with it's just rewicking and low res that are issues IMO, but that low res has be far less of an issue in the last year as mods have caught up. I do have a couple of Kanthal builds to test mods on and the flavour is just not there, though they are on Kayfun 2s and Krakens and I have not spent much time on it as I see little point other than academic. IMO you lose nothing with temp limiting and I gain faster heat up allowing me to take shorter more satisfying puffs, cleaner wicks and cleaner flavour. But flavour is very subjective and almost certainly different liquids like different temp so that can be elusive, but I can't recall anyone saying it was worse flavour.

Someone on ECF asked for a temp sensing 101 and I answered the following a few days ago and no one has disagreed with it so far.

Quick pointers that instantly spring to mind for those new to temp limiting

• You need good clean and tight connections, poor connection are the the most common cause of "issues".

• Fit new coils at room temperature, the mod and coils should be close to the same temp so the board can get a good base resistance reading. If that reading is out then temp sensing will be.

• Use spaced coils.

• Not enough vapour? it's the same basics as everything else: airflow, wicking and coil contact area and you probably need to increase one or more of these. IMO coil contact area is the most overlooked, more loops or dropping wire size & twisting are the easiest ways to fix it.

• Locking ohms is the last resort for poor connection issues (unless your mod only functions that way). Most decent temp limiting boards will track the board temp and coil temp as they cool to get a more accurate base resistance value.

• Don't max watts, at least at first as if for some other reason like the base/cold resistance was high you can overpower your coil.

Whatever keeps you off the stinkies there is room for everyone.

I has some of that Jon, so I'll give it a try. What ohms are you getting with triple twisted dual coil at that size?

Post by VapingBad on Sept 16, 2016 8:00:23 GMT

BTW VapingBad , that's a lot of cotton you pack in there, doesn't that affect the air-flow?

I trim mine down to just cover the juice holes, with more nearer the coil than the juice well. Like a "V" shape.

I have twice as many build decks as tanks so always pair them so the air holes miss the vertical sections of wicks, normally that give 2 air holes right under the wicks, you can see straight through them when looking side, you can just see the bottom of the coil. But they are not that sensitive to air hole position and work well as long as no wick is blocking a hole.

Post by ukwarrior on Nov 25, 2016 13:10:52 GMT

Remember with a regulated mod, you can go as low as the mod allows, and with TC wires like NI200, you will end up with very low resistance coils anyway. Surface area is the main thing along with the power you run your mod at, and in TC's case, the temperature too.

The simplest way for me to work out amp load is use the mods series voltage at cut off- so for a dual 18650 mod, around 6.2-6.4V, for a triple 18650 device 9.6V. At say 50W, you simply divide the wattage by the battery voltage, so for a dual 18650 mod 50/6.4=7.81A. Efficiency is a factor, and depending on your mod you will want to also divide by this. Using 90% as an example, that would leave you at 8.68A, wether you are running a very low resistance coil or higher resistance on a regulated device.

I have mainly moved to SS316L myself, and find dual 26G coils to usually turn out around 0.25 Ohms. I run these around 40W and at 240C on my DNA devices, other mods it depends on how well they perform at SS TC.

When I used Ni200, it was common to have builds that were around 0.07 Ohms! Again, I found surface area to be the important thing, and the amount you want will depend on the power you wish to run, and also the ramp up time to hit your set temperature.

In regards to my experiences, at first I did have trouble with Ni200 mods, but soon got the hang of it. Now I really do love Temp control/limiting mods. I also love the fact I can use my SS builds on older mods in power mode too, and not have to worry about forgetting if I have used Ni or Ti in a RDA or tank.