No Place Like Home

At the Lithuanian embassy in Brussels, there's a terse but plaintive note on the bulletin board: seeking place to eat real Lithuanian meal. Secretary Agnès Geniusaite explains: "We're all looking for places to eat our traditional food." There are, alas, no Lithuanian restaurants in Brussels. So every few weeks Geniusaite and colleagues gather at somebody's house for dishes like balandeliai (stuffed cabbage) and saltibarsciai (a kind of borscht).

The Lithuanians are not alone in their plight. In the past year, some 4,000 people from the 10 countries scheduled to join the E.U. in 2004 have moved to Brussels...