Fence post- bitumen on lower end?

Hi all.
I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my DIY
jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden fence p
osts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground section if I co
ver that portion of the wood in bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking
from ground water should do some good.
Thanks.
Jim.

It is possible to purchase fence posts pressure treated with creosote
from specialist suppliers.
The stretch of by-pass fencing through my farmland was completed in 1977
and is still sound (although not actually creosote and is fireproof with
a mothball smell).
Someone was marketing plastic sleeves for protecting the area where soil
bacteria/fungi are active but I've not seen any positive reports.

Is it still 'creosote' (was it ever) when wood is 'Tanalised'?
This give a description of what looks like an 'extended' process (but
it might always have been like this):
http://tate-fencing.co.uk/about/tanalising-process/
I knew it generally use a lack of pressure (rather than 'pressure') to
draw the preservative into the timber but the above link takes it
further to potentially leave the surface of the timber 'drier'?
Seems there are quite a few different techniques ..
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_preservation#Pressure_processes
I have two 6" square gateposts and one has rotted off at ground level
and the other seems to be as good as new. I've got two steel posts
ready to go back in their place and the rest of the posts are
concrete. ;-)
Cheers, T i m

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.
When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone
knows of a source.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Every time that I've used those there seems to be a stone deep down that
couses a twist. It's never near the surface where the twist could be
corrected. With about 50 cm. of fins in the ground and the stone, it's
impossible to twist it back.

Somewhere, I still have the Fensock dummy that goes into the socket
for hammering them into the ground. It's a short length of fence post
but much harder wood, with a metal cap on the top where the hammer
hits it, and a metal rod through it so you can twist to keep the socket
square as you hammer it in. ISTR it was quite expensive, but wouldn't
be hard to make if you could get a short length of 4x4 hardwood.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

It's an ancient Motif-based news reader.
(That reminds me someone asked me to upload the
source code to github, as I may have the only copy
that still exists. I didn't write it, although I
have had to modify it to add authentication.)

I think that's something your newsreader is doing.
Knews is old enough to moan at me if I post lines
longer than 72 characters, just in case someone
can't read it on their KSR33.

Your posts seem to indent the second and subsequent
line of each paragraph, which is not something I've
noticed in anyone else's posts. I don't see any
headers in your posts indicating that this is a
feature of any strange transfer encoding.
Just for fun, I've done this explicitly in this
paragraph.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Up to your usual tricks again I see, Harry, not reading your own
links! On the one you provided, they're called Metposts, without the
'A' in the middle, and there are plenty of other links calling them
Metposts.
https://www.google.com/search?q=metpost+fence+post&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b

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