- ,,' ( ,... f. ' \ , ; \. ç( " . :: , , _ i , : '\' ' ,. ,.,. ..ii' : - -" , .,. .', I' ..,. .'- .",,1 1' I } ' ' -., # . " OCTOßER . 1918 ON AND OFF THE A VENUE FEMININE. F A5HION5 zontally sewed inside-out tucks, and flaring below the knees; a hard-to-wear but very lovely Lanvin dress, black \vith a sort of d' Artagnan collar and cuffs of heavy white grosgrain sewed in sections with scalloped edges; and two crêpe dresses from Germaine Lecomte, one black and one red, very simple but cleverly flounced and Bared.. For evening Hollander has a mar- vellous white moire dress from Au- gusta Bernard-so simple as to be start- ling, but tricky. Its hemline is even, its skirt widened by two sudden but very restrained side poufs, its hips tightly swathed, and its back gratify- ingly low.. ..A.nd I liked an off-white satin gown by \V orth, with shoulder straps of strings of (imitation) emer- alds, and much flowing back fullness. Their young girls' clothes, as always, are shy, quiet, and awfully nice. ^ LSO a trifle shy and quiet, in the n manner of our best smaller places, the Brick Shop conducts itself behind a severely empty window on the second floor at 18. East Fifty-sixth Street. This is a good place to go for country clothes that will be just exactly right wherever . . ANY woman with a New York .l1. childhood must have a senti- mental feeling for Best's Lili- putian Bazaar, for Maillard, Altman's button department, and Hollander- among countless other shopping mem- ories. All these places have changed amazingly. For H,ollander is now an exceedingly chic place, for instance, stil1 maintaining its ancient reputation for quality. This year their models have the distinction of being dupli- cated almost nowhere, and are far more youthful than the world in gen- eral seems to believe. I saw their Paris models in the custom-order depart- ment, though many of the things are heing copied by them for their ready- to-wear as well. Their clothes fall rather naturally into three groups-things for the jeune fille, the mature woman's clothes, and perfectly grand things for young- er women who are critical but refuse to be ex- treme. Among these was a street frock of Oxford gray cluth with a severely tailored skirt, snug set-in belt, and a white collar-and-tie ar- rangement that pulls through the cloth in front and IS really very s nap p y. And among their af- ternoon clothes- smart but never fussy-were the Boulanger black crêpe dress with the huge green bow at the neck and the rosette buckle; a Jenny model of black satin, fitted very closely all over by means of hori- / t t.1 t... ': - <I;. N"' .' F,. ;,..,. , ' U:' , i/ l J I l "",:i:::-:f!rtr Ii(: ,:,; ' ,"", .n _ ,"Y-I v ; ,j' , --. .: ; r ?: v- you wear them, and for town and evening clothes of that poised and not too daring feeling. They have a wide selection of original Chanel and Lon- don Trades tweed models, for which they have imported the materials to make their own copies to measure, and they are very strong for browns, beiges, thick woollens, and uncom- promising simplicity. A suit from Marcel Rochas is made of thick tan tweed, with a straight skirt widened at the centre by a double kick-pleat, and a plain cardigan jacket with bone buttons and rows of fine stitching. The jacket has a stitched arrow downward hetween the shoulders, and there is a hlouse of brown, beige, and white crêpe, fitted in slightly dizzy angular sec- tions. The blouse is finished at its very edge with a snug belt of shiny brown leather which has a big thick ring of wood, like the tire of a toy automobile, for a buckle. Really a knockout. There is, too, a Lanvin robe de style of gold-colored taffeta, incredibly plain, with a peplum and a big bow right in front. Not theatrical, hut not ingénue either. 1 mong the Brick Shop's London importations are shirts for riding, of ; , 0:, ..' · ,," {{ I do n) t want anything too exhausting." : f .......- . .;' .....;..;,;:;;....... 'j., :,