Pages

Thursday, May 6, 2010

There Has Got to Be a Better Way to Do This

I find myself in dark, uncharted territory right now, readers: I am questioning the wisdom of Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing. You see, the Background Dress is finished (!) and I'm working on its accessories: the link buttons and the scarf. (You may recall that the Background Dress has several different ways to wear the neckline, which incorporate these accoutrements.) My current problem is the link buttons, as illustrated above. What the heck are link buttons, you ask?

This little accessory is quite neat, really - just two buttons linked together, much like cuff links. And they can then be worn through the bound buttonholes at the collar of the dress, as illustrated by the gal with half a head on the upper right of this envelope:

Aren't they cute? I just wish mine would go together easily. VoNBBS instructs us to thread the buttons with four strands of buttonhole twist, and then cover the strands with blanket stitches.

Here's the full instructions. Click to enlarge!

Now, here's what happened to me. It was going fairly well, and then: Major knottage! Also, I'm just not loving the look of it.

On the left side, where the blanket stitches are not all tangled up - doesn't it look kind of cheesy and amateurish? Is this my fault or the fault of the method, do you think? It just seems like there must be a more professional-looking way to do this. I'm thinking perhaps something involving a strand of jewelry chain and some pliers. But I'm no jewelry maker. And so I come to you crafty, clever readers for help!

What do you think? Should I go back to square one with the buttonhole twist? Or do you have any brilliant suggestions for how to make this work better? Any and all help is appreciated!

And then it's on to the next accessory: a bias cut scarf made of pale blue silk chiffon with white polka dots. That will have a hand-rolled hem, no less! Hmm, something's making me think that the dress was only half the battle with this project . . .

64 comments:

I'd try and find a short length of thin chain (perhaps from an old necklace) and using some small pliars attach it to the back of the buttons. I'm no good at hand sewing and I'm sure I'd have made much more of a mess of it than you did if I'd attempted to join buttons that way!

Chain-linked button would be awefully hard on the fabric of your dress, I think. I can just hear those buttonholes tearing. To me, the threadlinked buttons look pretty decent. For a more finished look; Maybe the 'stiches' could be a litlle closer together, and personally I've had good results with using embroidery floss for thread loops. It's nice and thick and shiny, and looks professional when finished. (I split the floss and use three strands per loop.)

I'd go for a chain. There are men's cufflinks connected together with chain, and those seem to do no damage at all to the fabric of the shirts. I don't see why this would be any different. Nice buttons btw.

There is a notion that does this. It is a cufflink bar? Don't remember exactly what it is called, but I've bought them. Try M &J or Pacific Trimmings. I bought them years ago. It works like a charm and you just sew each end to a button.

Some fabric stores have the chain by the yard in with the fabric trims by the yard. I think it would be hard to find something that wouldn't lessen the cuteness of those buttons. I think I would try again with embroidery floss. The beginning of the stitches look good. It will just take a little patience to keep the stitches even.

I don't envy you for the chiffon scarf. I have no patience for working with that fabric. I used to work at a fabric store and even getting that fabric to behave enough to give the customer a fair, square cut of fabric was challenging.

this is just what the ones in my great-grandmother's button stash looked like, but she used heavy darning thread so it didn't get all tangly.i would use a scrap of chain and a couple of jump rings though. it's not really jewelry making, just gently open the links w the pliers and close them again. no big deal at all.

I like the chain idea best; it's easier than working a thread chain, and I think the little glint of metallic nestled between the buttons might be a fun detail. Plus, you have been having enough headaches with this dress--I say just opt for what is easier/less stressful!!! lol.

My guess, based on my (limited) experience with detached embroidery, is you've got a tension problem that's causing the trouble. If you're determined to beat the blanket stitch, you might want to set up a jig that will hold the buttons and their connecting thread steady while you do the blanket stitching -- a couple of T-pins and a scrap of mounting board (or a reused styrofoam meat tray!) would do the trick.

Re: Rosesred's suggestion: I'd use #10 pearl cotton instead of embroidery floss. It has a tighter twist and will wear better.

I like the crochet suggestion. What I've done in the past is used a couple of strands of embroidery floss or topstitching thread doubled in a crewel needle to do the blanket stitch. It seems to stiffen the base thread and makes the stitches easier to sew close together. I hope that makes sense!

Or maybe use the technique for making swing tacks? (basically finger crochet as seen here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-9iknve_eU&feature=related).

I don't know if it will end up looking any nicer than a blanket stitch, but it's definitely faster. I would think about using a waxed thread, and maybe something "looser" like embroidery thread (as mentioned by others). Buttonhole twist is strong, but I find it gives really ugly results when knotted in any way.

If I were making this dress I would use a small length of chain like many of your readers have suggested, but I wouldn't attach it to the actual button. I would sew the last link on each end of the chain to a button and allow enough slack in the looped thread so that the chain doesn't put stress on the button hole(which I'm sure is going to look very lovely given your latest buttonhole discoveries!). I would probably loop it at least 4 times and you could even use the method your pattern calls for, just in two very short segments on either side of the chain.

I think sewing the buttons like the pattern shows is a very old fashioned technique that risks looking a bit artsy-craftsy today. Of the suggestions so far, I like the chain idea or crochet. Another thought is using a bit of rat-tail or mouse-tail cord to tie them together. It's silky and would look nice with the buttons.

Don't do the chain! It will abrade your bound buttonholes that I'm sure you're very proud of (making successful bound buttonholes always makes me proud, no matter how many I've done, lol), and eventually ruin it. Don't do it, please don't do it!

I wouldn't go with rattail or anything like that either because the ends fray like crazy. You'd have to apply some sort of glue to them (you can't melt the ends because it's rayon and just becomes ash - can you tell I've tried?); but maybe you don't have the same hang-ups about using glue on sewing projects that I do.

I've used both chain stitch and blanket/buttonhole stitch for making links/chains and I have to say I like the blanket/buttonhole stitch best; I find it looks the best and is the sturdiest. It's all I use now when making thread loops for hooks or buttons. It does take a little practice though, my first ones looked pretty mangled. Did you tie off the threads after creating the bar between the 2 buttons and then start the blanket stitch? If not, that might help since you won't be trying to manage the tension of those threads while sewing the stitches. Other than that, I think it's just practice. I personally prefer silk twist (despite how easily it can tangle) because it slides so smoothly and looks all glossy, just like......silk!

I highly recommend mastering this technique, I think you'll be really glad you did. And it won't take much practice, you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly, get a good rhythm going and have a high-quality link before you know it!

Btw, so looking forward to seeing the many results of the background dress of doom!

Hi there! I think what is making it more difficult is the fact that you are using beads for the thread part. If I were you I would use normal thread, perhaps a thicker one if you want more volume. Then those little knots should come cleaner. You need to make sure that each little knot comes close to the previous one. Hope this helps.

If you opt for the chain, I have some spare in silver and would be happy to mail you some. The packages generally come with tons more than you would ever need for sewing projects. Email me if you think you might want it. Lauren Grillo 206 gmail.

I think the problem is in the amount of twist in the thread. Natalie Chanin (Alabama Stitch and Alabama Studio Style) talks about "loving your thread" by repeatedly stroking the thread from the needle to the end of the thread (similarly to when you are lining up the ends of two threads for making a knot). She does this probably 18 times before starting the handstitched work. This helps to ease the tension in the thread twist and reduce the twisty messes I used to get from sewing thread. Others have suggested embroidery floss, which has less twist and therefore has less of the knotting problem.

DO NOT use a chain! It may be more conveinant or attractive but it will ruin your buttonholes as there will be A LOT of friction in that area because of movement. You want something slick AND smooth to lessen abrasion on the buttonholes, though the idea of a few strands of embroidery floss sounds good too. I also suggest trying the technique a few more times. I mean, you made multiple muslins for the dress, what's another try at the buttons? Love the buttons by the way!

It's actually a couture technique but I couldn't remember what it was called before. What you're creating is called a "thread bar" as described in Claire Schaffer's Couture Sewing book. You can check out the description by searching for "thread bar" or "thread chain" at GoogleBooks.

I've scanned other comments and agree that you shouldn't use a chain - instead, I think the best method would be to use a well-waxed thread (buy some silamide?) and make a swing tack between the two. That always looks nice and is so much easier to do.

My quick and dirty suggestion is sew the buttons onto a short length of ribbon, or a rectangle of fabric (sewn lengthwise and turned inside out). The idea is that it isn't going to be seen anyway. My quick and filthy suggestion is a loop of hat elastic

Hi: Have you considered using oneof those thin ponytail bands. If you cut it apart to thread it through the botton shanks and then used a jewelry fixing connector to mend the cut, it should work perfectly. Of course, I'd probably just tie a knot--it will never show. Just a thought. I love the dress any way you wear it. Ta.

Stick it out and do it the "right" way. You'll get better with practice (as I always tell my kids---but have trouble remembering myself!) You're very talented...it won't take you long to master this problem.

I'm going to echo the suggestions of others to wax the thread, and to secure the threads linking the buttons before beginning the blanket stitches.

I'll add these tips for the blanket stitches:--After you complete a single blanket stitch, push it up snugly against the remaining stitches with your thumbnail so it lies smoothly.--Let go of your needle (let it dangle) every few stitches to let the thread return to its natural twist. Most people will rotate the needle slightly with every stitch, which eventually makes kinks in the thread. From your photo, it looks to me as though that happened here.

I agree with Michelle's tips for trying the suggested blanket stitch method again. Your end result should look like a wrapped cord with a single ridge along one side. Maybe it would help if you could secure one button in place so you only have to hold one to create the tension in the cord. Try adding a few more strands to the center, it should make it less futsy.

I used to have a RTW shirt that had linked buttons for the cuffs. The buttons were held together by a short length of thin elastic. Because it stretches, it doesn't have to be very long. Sorry I don't have a picture - but it looked good and worked well. (Although, not authentic for the time period of this patter, I'm sure)

I'm not sure what bedding stitches are, but they look like half slip knots to me (um yeah, I learned knots for windsurfing). As a kid, I used to make bracelets like that, with different strands of color as the middle thread, changing the knotting thread every couple of centimeters. I imagine it's more difficult with thin thread and between two buttons, though. If you want to stay with the knots/stitches, the easiest way might be to find a way to fix them so the middle thread is pulled tautly. Maybe your hubby could hold them for the time it takes you to stitch?

What if you used a strip of soutache to connect the two buttons and then used your machine to make tight zig-zag stitches or a tight overlock stitch over the soutache? It's a really cute idea - I hope you find a solution that works.

I've made dozens of thread chains by this method of the buttonhole/blanket stitch over a few strands of thread. This is the same technique you would use to loosely attach linings to the garment at the hem on pants legs or a coat. Or to make a thread loop for a small button.1) Wax the thread. Remember to press the thread between paper towels or something to set the wax into the thread.2) Keep the blanket stitches close together but be careful about pulling them tightly together. This causes twisting of the chain.3) Practice. Really. I always make a short test chain to remind my fingers how to do it.

You've got to wax your silk twist and create a tension situation. If you don't have a third hand (like a jeweler's clip) tie one button to a stationary object where you do your hand sewing. This will give you more control - the button away from you won't be flopping about. Use the buttonhole stitch, it takes practice but once you master it you'll have learned a wonderful technique. Go for it!!

This is the method I use to do thread loops on a dress for a belt...there is a crochet chain method (thread chain) in the Coture Sewing Techniques book, pg. 33 that shows how to do this. It is a bit more decorative, but might be a bit flimsy. Maybe you could double your thread?

That said, I make jewelry and it is NOT hard. Go to your local hobby shop with a jewelry making section. You will find chain lengths in different finishes and configurations. They look like necklaces on a card ($2-$4). Pick your favorite. Pick up a pair of mini jewelry pliers (about $6). A small pack of "jump rings" to join your chain length to the buttons (about $1.50-2.00) You will also need a way to cut the chain to your desired length. I already had a pair of wide pliers at home with a cutter behind the nose part, but they sell these as well. Beware the small flimsy looking ones.

So you could finish this with chain very easily, learn a new embellishment technique, and do it for about $10! If you have any problems or want a step-by-step, just email me. I know by now you just want to get this project over with! Good luck!

Just read a few comments above. You COULD just skip the jump rings and save a little money and you wouldn't need the jewelry pliers either, just the cutter. Cut the chain to desired length and sew the ends to the buttons. Brilliant! I am such a nerd for doing things the RIGHT way that sometimes I don't see the obvious solutions to a mixed media project.

So this would run you about $2-$4 and you could have it done in 10 minutes! Besides there being a fab selection of chains out there from delicate to chunky and in all kinds of metal and painted finishes! Have fun!

First of all, you need to use either embroidery thread or crochet thread. I prefer crochet thread for this kind of application. It's better twisted together than embroidery and you don't have to worry about separating the thread into individual strands. I think it simply looks better.

The tip about letting the needle dangle is a good one. It keeps it from becoming twisted. Also, make sure you're using the same stitch every time. Changing the way or angle you're doing the blanket stitch can make it look twisted.

I'm not sure I'd go the chain route, but if you do, they sell it at Home Depot. I think it's by the foot. Personally, I'd go for thread, because you can get it in a color to match the dress and thus blend better.

I work in a vintage store and there we had a jacket with linked buttons and there were linked by metal chains. I think that looks much more classy and you need just couple of tools (scissors in the worst case) to fix'em. Otherwise I used to twirl a coloured thread around a strand of my hair when I was little, so it looks like a neat little round wire, you could try that. Just fix the thread at one button and twist around so that the new layer of thread comes neatly close to the previous one. Then fix with couple of knots on the other. They never unwind if fixed properly.Good luck!

You've gotten great advice.Personally, I would stick to VBNoBS and the thread method. You are already off to a lovely start.I embroider quite a bit, and my first reaction was the same as Nora's -- it would be much easier if you could secure the buttons and therefore create a consistent tension while you do the blanket stitches. I would also avoid the embroidery floss (wrong look, and wrong kind of ply) and try the beeswax. I've not ironed my waxed thread, but then again, i've used it for embroidering, not sewing. You're not far off from a polished result -- spend half an hour or so, and you'll be there. And gorgeous, gorgeous buttons!!

I love the buttons and I think you should keep trying. To make it more professional looking, ditch the button twist and use something thick and glossy: #5 or 10 perle cotton, or some embroidery floss. The extra heft makes it fairly easy to get professional results.

If you pack the stitches (that is, if you make a blanket stitch and then slide it to be closer to the ones you've already made) you'll get a nice, dense connecting cord. Godspeed!

Gertie! Chain on your lovely fabric!?!? I say, if you reject the blanket stitch, try a knitted i-cord. It is exceptionally simple to do yourself (or have a knitting friend help you - or ask me; I know how to use the mail)and will result in a very sturdy substitute. Choose embroidery floss in a color that will disappear into your fabric instead of the yarn that is used in the video.http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

I'm sure you've already tried this by now, but I can't recommend enough the hot wax treatment (wax the thread, then press w/ an iron) and use a fine crochet hook to cover the "core" threads - it goes much faster than using a needle.

I rarely hand sew anything these days without waxing up my thread first.