Part Number Cross Reference

Radiant Flame Sensor

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PartSelect Number PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number WP338906
Manufactured by Whirlpool

If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.

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Question:

How do I know that the heat sensor is bad? My igniter lights but gas valve does not open.

Bill
for model number
NGD4500VQ0

Answer:

Hi Bill,
Thank you for your inquiry. You can test your sensor with a multi-meter to see if it is still working. First you will have to disconnect the power to your appliance and then remove the sensor. Second you will set your multi-meter to the lowest setting and then calibrate it to show zero. Take each probe of your meter and touch one to each of the prongs on your sensor. If the meter continues to show zero or infinite ohms, your sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Good luck with your repair!

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Question:

My dryer stopped heating. I cleaned out the lint from around the drum and it heated long enough to dry a small load. The next day it would not heat. I removed the flexible duct, and it heated for about 10 minutes. Do i need a new sensor?

Tracy
for model number
MDG9700AWW

Answer:

Hi Tracey,
Thank you for your inquiry. It could be your sensor, I would suggest also taking a look at your fuse and your thermostats as well. If your fuse is out then your machine will not heat. If your thermostats are not working right they could be reading the wrong temperature and shutting down the machine because it thinks that it is getting too hot. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

Keeps giving e1 code

Michael
for model number
110.92822102

Answer:

Hi Michael,
Thank you for the question. The E1 error code indicates that there is an open Thermostat which is used as a temperature sensor. Since you can not fix those, you will have to replace it.The part number needed is PS11746740.
Hope this helps!

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Gas dryer would not ignite

1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on. 10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out. 11.Replaced the black vent plastic.12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite. 14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure. 15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!

Maytag dyer stopped heating

My 20 yr old Maytag dryer had experienced this problem about 10 years ago. At that time I replace the Gas Dyer Radiant Flame sensor and it fixed the problem. I figured a sensor went bad again however I opted to replace all of the sensors at once thinking I'm avoiding potential future issues and the dryer will out live me. Replacing the sensors is a piece of cake on my Maytag. A nutdriver and srewdriver was all that I needed. PartSelect was great to deal with and the parts did the trick.

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45 of 62 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult

Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins

Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers

Customer: FRED from BRIELLE, NJ

Gas flame would drop out

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful

Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

Dryer would not heat.

I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.

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25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Really Easy

Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins

Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers

Customer: Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID

Dryer would not heat up.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful

Dryer would light at start and then not light.

I used the trouble shooting part of this site and bought the radiant flame sensor and the high limit thermostat. Installation was very easy. The original problem still persisted and then purchased the temp. control thermostat, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. These parts installed easily as well and the problem still existed.

While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.

This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.

I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.

The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.

Thanks Parts Select ! !

Gregg heagney

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22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Easy

Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins

Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set

Customer: Christy from Riley, MI

Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

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16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Really Easy

Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins

Tools: Nutdriver

Customer: Lynn from Novi, MI

Heat would not come on

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Dryer shut down before clothes were dry

... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!

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8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Easy

Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours

Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

Customer: NICHOLAS from PARMA, OH

No heat

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

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8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Really Easy

Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours

Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

Customer: Philip from La Palma, CA

No heat

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

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6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Easy

Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins

Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers

Customer: Georgio from Oradell, NJ

The glow ignitor would not cycle on

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

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8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:

Radiant Flame Sensor

Level of Difficulty: Easy

Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins

Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers

Customer: reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ

No heat was being produced

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website