Introduction

Predominately a sport climbing area, the Paynes Ford rock climbing area offers routes that are generally vertical to slightly overhanging
but with some
steeper roofs. Climbers are offered a range of limestone features including pocks,
cracks and flowstone which could be characterised as 'interesting slopers'.

(photo by Kelly Cudworth)

The area is most popular in Summer especially around Xmas and New Year, however spring and autumn
are the best seasons, as it is not so hot. In winter you're likely
to be almost on your own with good friction during the shorter days but be
prepared for cold
nights. Routes may be dirty after the winter/spring
rains which hinders on-sighting. Takaka can have heavy rain, after which is can take a few days
for the crags to dry (due to runoff from above).

"Temples Of Stone" (18),
one of the classic routes of the crag (photo by

Simon Middlemass)

Access

Near Takaka, in Golden Bay at the NW end of the South Island.
Motueka is approximately 50 minutes drive over the Takaka Hill (Highway 60).
From Christchurch it is approximately 6 hours drive, or approximately 1.5 hours
drive from Nelson.

Approaches are typically 5 to 15 minutes of easy walking on well maintained tracks.

Climbing

Paynes Ford is west facing and gets the afternoon sun, though there are some shady areas though.
Tarakohe on the other hand is north facing so it gets the morning sun and no shade.

Bring a 50-60m 10mm+ rope (60m essential to get down off the longer routes).
You will also need about
12 draws plus light rack of wires, CD's to #3 and a carpet square to clean your feet on!

Other Activities

Surfing, Caving, Mountainbiking, Tramping, Cafes, Raves (eg the Gathering)
Swimming holes at the river are brilliant (as are the riverside boulder problems)

Jochen Lenfert bouldering at the swimming hole (photo by

Simon Middlemass)

Accomodation

Hangdog Camp is just a few metres from the crag just on the R after you cross the Paynes Ford bridge 4km before Takaka. $4 per night camping, shower, toilets and a
bunkhouse. The climbers hangout.
Just turn up or phone 03 525 9093; http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/hangdog.camp/