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Fresh and wild

First, know your egg. Was it from a flock of hens allowed to wander outdoors, peck for food and preen feathers, or was it from a caged bird? Most important, is it guaranteed antibiotic and salmonella free? This may not be vital if the egg is cooked in an omelette or boiled hard, but it does matter if used raw in a pick-me-up solution.

At Knowes Farm in East Lothian the birds are fed meal made on the farm, no antibiotics are used, and they were joint winners — with Corrie Mains Free Range Eggs in Ayrshire — in the Scottish Egg Quality Awards (2006).

Just the eggs for an old Shetland Yule Breakfast as described by the Rev Biot Edmonston: “The yolks of a dozen eggs are vigorously whisked for half an hour with about a pound of sifted loaf-sugar; nearly half a pint of old rum is added, and then