Marios Schwab / Resort 2015

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In Marios Schwab’s resort show notes, there’s a phrase that reads “ideal minimalism.” It could very well be the collection’s title. Here, he suggested a clean, pared-down wardrobe, no doubt designed by a pensive mind, yet not so bare or cerebral that it lost traction. Rather, Schwab applied just the right amount of detailed flourish, such as with the frayed folds of a denim dress, the boudoir lace inset on a teal shift, or the wicker-basket weave belted around a slightly outsize trench coat. All of it cohered into a message that was unmistakably him—darkly romantic, exact, very smart—yet simplified. Ideal, indeed.

Resort also marks Schwab’s first foray into tailoring, which looked especially enticing on a soft-fit, slightly elongated blazer. Yet clients who are used to the designer’s nighttime spectaculars won’t be left pining; his evening wear featured strikingly slouchy gowns that were sheeted in transparent tulles, through which sequin-embroidered columns glinted like veiled exoskeletons. For a less dreamy and more graphic after hours punch, try his crosscut top—two tails of which graze the floor—over suit pants.