6 O'Clock Solution: Laura Calder's Cheese and Herb Tart

MONTREAL -- Laura Calder, prize-winning Toronto cookbook author, is an admitted francophile and readers may join her in that way of thinking after reading and cooking from her new book, Paris Express: Simple Food From the City of Style (HarperCollins, $39.99). Her theme is that Parisian cuisine, enjoyed at home, is simple, spontaneous and satisfying. Home kitchens are small, shopping is a daily pleasure, and cooking is uncomplicated.

The book is a good read. I’ve visited Paris several times, and spent a week there last year, but dined out nightly, which was a great pleasure. Now I know more about what goes on in those handsome apartment buildings, often located a half-block from a butcher, baker, produce store and cheese shop.

Good times are being enjoyed upstairs, and Laura gives us the details along with a big collection of easygoing recipes. The photographs depict Paris at its best, from rooftops to markets to table. Readers will feel they have joined this writer having a good time over a simple, satisfying, extra-fresh meal. They may recall her popular TV show French Food at Home.

Planning a relaxed summer supper? Consider this tart as the centrepiece of the meal, plus slices of good ham and a tossed green salad. Use large, flaky breadcrumbs you make in a food processor out of day-old bread, and not the dry powdery ones, she directs.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Butter bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Add breadcrumbs, tilting pan so crumbs coat both bottom and sides. Press lightly with your hand so they stay in place.

In a bowl, beat together the eggs, faisselle or ricotta cheese, and crème fraîche. Stir in the herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Pour filling into pan and sprinkle surface with grated cheese. Bake until filling is set in the centre (it should no longer jiggle when shaken), about 25 minutes.

Cool on a rack for about 10 minutes so the edges of the tart pull away from the pan. Remove sides of pan and slide tart onto a serving plate. Serve warm.

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