130" Diagonal but it's just a hair over 119.5" wide viewing area. Also using the XD screen material as well, although my screen is not curved.

Did you get enough light on that sized screen? Which projector are you using? The only thing stopping me from going over 10 feet wide is that I am afraid the light / pop will diminish.. i plan to use the Sony 50 or 55 (new one soon to come out)

Right now, I am playing it with my dual HSU 15 inchers... (I can hardly hear any bass now... the speakers are so much louder.. i have to set them at -10 db at my receiver level.. and my sub at +10....

That's because the JTR speakers are so sensitive. Big sound with little power.
Are you using the Marantz AVR to drive them? What AVR or amplifier do you plan to use?
Are you from KL? None of the shops in Pasar Road selling the RCA-XLR adaptor?

That's because the JTR speakers are so sensitive. Big sound with little power.
Are you using the Marantz AVR to drive them? What AVR or amplifier do you plan to use?
Are you from KL? None of the shops in Pasar Road selling the RCA-XLR adaptor?

Right...

Yup, Marantz.. it's a 10 year old amp, so I know for sure the sound can get far better once i get my onkyo in... (Because i have tried my friend's onkyo on my Wharfedale and they are way better).. and his was just the onkyo 609...

Nice Coolgeek! Happy for you!
I was wondering what the reasons for ported and sealed on the Noesis. I know general reasons but why did you choose which way?

Well, actually the reason was because i wanted absolute clarity vs more mid bass... even my HSU subs were sealed... but right now, I am wondering if it would have been better to just get the 'center' sealed and the 2 sides ported... they do sound awesome though...

Yup, Marantz.. it's a 10 year old amp, so I know for sure the sound can get far better once i get my onkyo in... (Because i have tried my friend's onkyo on my Wharfedale and they are way better).. and his was just the onkyo 609...

I tried pasar road before.. didn't find any... maybe it's there but i just couldn't find it..
Well, actually the reason was because i wanted absolute clarity vs more mid bass... even my HSU subs were sealed... but right now, I am wondering if it would have been better to just get the 'center' sealed and the 2 sides ported... they do sound awesome though...

Nice! I like the tad smaller profile of the sealed. I will be getting LCR but not until March 15th.

Cool... you might want to order it quicker.. i heard the wait time is long...

I got to wait for funds. I talked with my fiancé and will be using my profit sharing bonus. That will cover the 212 Noesis LCR. I have sold my HSU VTF 15H, Definitive Technology towers and will be selling the center and surrounds to fund most likely an Orbit Shifter or a Cap S2 for a sub.

I got to wait for funds. I talked with my fiancé and will be using my profit sharing bonus. That will cover the 212 Noesis LCR. I have sold my HSU VTF 15H, Definitive Technology towers and will be selling the center and surrounds to fund most likely an Orbit Shifter or a Cap S2 for a sub.

I am sure you're gonna be a happy man once you get your JTRs... I have been playing the speakers for hours now.. going thru my CDs...

Thanks, but I don't think that would work. My sub would be too far from the receiver for that cable. I'll probably just need a connector that plus into the Orbit Shifter, and turns it into an RCA input... then use my normal rca cables to link to it... I found some on amazon, not sure which to get though

Thanks, but I don't think that would work. My sub would be too far from the receiver for that cable. I'll probably just need a connector that plus into the Orbit Shifter, and turns it into an RCA input... then use my normal rca cables to link to it... I found some on amazon, not sure which to get though

Tell me if I have the recent events of your arrivals correct. You have all your JTR speakers received. LCR 212 Noesis, 4 slanted Eight surrounds and an OS but have only listened to the 3 Noesis with your HSU ULS dual subs? Anyway, I look forward to some descriptive opinions of the Noesis and the OS combo as those 4 items may be what I get eventually. Again, happy for you and your new gear!

Tell me if I have the recent events of your arrivals correct. You have all your JTR speakers received. LCR 212 Noesis, 4 slanted Eight surrounds and an OS but have only listened to the 3 Noesis with your HSU ULS dual subs? Anyway, I look forward to some descriptive opinions of the Noesis and the OS combo as those 4 items may be what I get eventually. Again, happy for you and your new gear!

I can't wait to hook up my OS as well. My dual HSU's just can't keep up... So, essentially I am not listening to the JTR as they are meant to so I won't give much comments yet. But I'll say, even now, they are incredible. I compare my Wharfedale speakers (which was really good ones too, better than most towers I have heard), and although they sound good, the volume level would not begin to match the JTR's... they sound 'muted' against the JTRs...

Ah, sorry... I ended up on the professional version, that had -3dB @ 37Hz. My bad.

There are quite a number of movies who have put much lower frequencies on the soundtracks. People who can play those claim we don't know what we're missing until we've experienced it... thus I'm aiming for a bit below 10Hz myself.

Ah, sorry... I ended up on the professional version, that had -3dB @ 37Hz. My bad.

There are quite a number of movies who have put much lower frequencies on the soundtracks. People who can play those claim we don't know what we're missing until we've experienced it... thus I'm aiming for a bit below 10Hz myself.

If you can afford it, then sure.. it'll be great to cover all the frequencies...

But I think to get anything meaningful below 10 hz, you need to spend a LOT of money.. I heard people needing 8x18inches (and each driver cost like $1000 above), and not even counting the amps, and boxes... The OS is equivalent to at least 4x18s.. and it's only 3K

If you can afford it, then sure.. it'll be great to cover all the frequencies...

But I think to get anything meaningful below 10 hz, you need to spend a LOT of money.. I heard people needing 8x18inches (and each driver cost like $1000 above), and not even counting the amps, and boxes... The OS is equivalent to at least 4x18s.. and it's only 3K

I only have 3K to spend and i went with 1 OS...

I intend to do it with 6x12". Same speakers in other installs have been measured to reach their -3dB between 5 and 12Hz and I hope my room will be amongst the lower ones. They do cost a lot more (4x) and that's without amps and crossover.

I intend to do it with 6x12". Same speakers in other installs have been measured to reach their -3dB between 5 and 12Hz and I hope my room will be amongst the lower ones. They do cost a lot more (4x) and that's without amps and crossover.

But I think you'll go plenty deep given your walls.

Hey, since you know so much about sub-woofers.. can you tell me where is the best location to place my sub-woofer? I heard from Jeff that if I corner load it, it'll extend the horn by several feet and that it'll go lower... if you see my plans, where would be that sweet spot?

Well, not counting that I don't know much about horns... but you want the element (or horn opening, if the element is internal) as close to the boundaries as possible so the first reflexes off them are constructive over the subs operating range. Typically within 2 feet. So no arguments about that from here.
(I would be cornerloading all of mine if I had the height for it, so I will have to have two mid front as well. They are triangular, so the baffel will actually be the corner.)

From your drawing I can't say that any other corner than the selected one would do better.

In general I don't recommend any less than two subwoofers, preferrably four, but given the cost limitations I understand that that is out of the question. You will get more peaks and valleys in your bass response (and differing between the seats) than you would from having four overlaying radiation patterns from several points of origin, but hopefully you'll be content the same.

Well, not counting that I don't know much about horns... but you want the element (or horn opening, if the element is internal) as close to the boundaries as possible so the first reflexes off them are constructive over the subs operating range. Typically within 2 feet. So no arguments about that from here.
(I would be cornerloading all of mine if I had the height for it, so I will have to have two mid front as well. They are triangular, so the baffel will actually be the corner.)

From your drawing I can't say that any other corner than the selected one would do better.

In general I don't recommend any less than two subwoofers, preferrably four, but given the cost limitations I understand that that is out of the question. You will get more peaks and valleys in your bass response (and differing between the seats) than you would from having four overlaying radiation patterns from several points of origin, but hopefully you'll be content the same.

Grats on the speakers:) Looking forward to more impressions on their sound qualities I am considering them myself, altough I was aiming at the Noesis 228 HT I was hoping they would make a low profile version of that one too.

Was there a specific reason to go with the OS sub instead of other offerings?

Grats on the speakers:) Looking forward to more impressions on their sound qualities I am considering them myself, altough I was aiming at the Noesis 228 HT I was hoping they would make a low profile version of that one too.

Was there a specific reason to go with the OS sub instead other offerings?

I'll put up my proper reviews once I have my Onkyo in and have hooked up the Orbit Shifter. Right now, they are only paired with my HSU's...

As for why I chose the OS.. well, it's the most powerful sub around. I can't think of anything else more powerful for $3K.