When I bought them (used) they came with centers that were 1.5" thick. There were no threads on the wheel stud beyond the hole in the wheel. They were only held on by the threads in the lug nut shank....nothing in the head of the lug nut.

I fixed that. I had pockets milled into the wheels to get full thread engagement. I now have little windows where the lug holes hit the center hole, but that is minor compared to failing lug nuts at highway speeds.

Were those originally pin drive wheels with a center knock off like My Jag with wire wheels had.? Usually its better not to modify the wheels , go to a good parts store and buy longer lug studs. I had to replace the studs on one of my trailers and they had all the spec's in a catalog, stud thread size, length, knurl dia, and length. the knock offs usually had a lot of material in the center so yours look ok, I.ve had to find longer closed end lug nuts to run some aluminum wheels.. I think thelug nuts were off a Mustang II with the factory aluminum wheels.

Were those originally pin drive wheels with a center knock off like My Jag with wire wheels had.? Usually its better not to modify the wheels , go to a good parts store and buy longer lug studs. I had to replace the studs on one of my trailers and they had all the spec's in a catalog, stud thread size, length, knurl dia, and length. the knock offs usually had a lot of material in the center so yours look ok, I.ve had to find longer closed end lug nuts to run some aluminum wheels.. I think thelug nuts were off a Mustang II with the factory aluminum wheels.

No. These are later model wheels (late 90's?) make for a Dodge Dakota. They use mag wheel style lug nuts.

No stud going into the hex portion isn't a concern. The number of threads into the nut is what's important, so going to a longer shank on the nut will solve the problem without modifying some really nice Halibrands.

No stud going into the hex portion isn't a concern. The number of threads into the nut is what's important, so going to a longer shank on the nut will solve the problem without modifying some really nice Halibrands.

Actually it is a problem, especially if somebody ever uses an impact on the lug nuts. The shank is pretty thin. If over torqued, the shank will pull into/crack and the hex will pop off. That is why NHRA requires open ended lug nuts...so they can verify that the stud goes into the hex.

The damage is done as far as Y'all are concerned. The problem is fixed as far as I'm concerned.

I have a set of MAGNESIUM Halibrands and Americans....very black, from the fifties. Not the kidney beans like yours. I run newer aluminum Halibrands on our '33 Sedan Delivery.
I always find the longer shank nut.
You did a nice job, however.
Keep kroozen, Jim

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