Gypfast

16m. The large triangular overhang is a bit of a one-move-wonder. Fix runners to left and right then cross the flakes rightwards to hard moves round the lip and an anticlimactic finish.FA. Phil Gibson 1979

USER COMMENTS

One of the classic roof climbs of its type. Certainly as good as easier grade classic such as Sloth and Wombat.Gary Gibson - 14/Mar/02

Fun, but feels a bit contrived. Soft touch as well.Tom - 21/Mar/02

agree with tom.more like e3 5b.mark s - 18/Sep/03

Gear in Bachelor's Buttress is not needed - there are perfect small cams in deep, solid flakes at the start of the roof climbing. Done this way it makes an easy E3. In fact one should really miss out faffing around with gear in Sauls, and it would still be (slightly stiffer) E3.

Now that's cleared up, this is a pretty cool climb on great holds, with fun campussing opportunities. Neither a one move wonder, nor is the lip any harder than the rest.Fiend - 07/Mar/07

Yes I couldn`t understand why people do all that faffing with runners halfway up other routes? the cams are fine in the flakes on the left. Still think E4 5c is the right grade wouldn`t want to fall off from the lipRobert Mirfin - 09/Mar/07