Contributed Comments

Comments: I normally do not write comments until I send the route, but since it will take time for me to send this route, I adding my comments. I enjoyed trying this route with Paul and Nhon. To me this route is harder than a few 5.12a's I sent at Castle. I felt the crux move is about V5 and the grade may be 12a or harder. (Bruce Morris once told me that the hold broke in this route, so the route may be actually harder.) This route is also temperature-dependent, and the cooler the temperature is, the ... more >>

Comments: Direct Start (Left Side of Arete) is rated 5.11A. If you keep climbing left side of the 1st bolt of the direct start using flakes, I felt rating is not hard (maybe 5.10). I also went up from the right side of the 1st bolt directly going up the arete using slopers. This move is more fun and a bit scary, and maybe 11A (but not so hard once you know the move). Which every you choose to go, you almost feel like skipping the 2nd bolt (which is the 3d bolt of the 10C start).

Comments: Overhangy, but very similar to gym climbing. Myabe over-rated? If you can climb overhangy 11b in the gym, you should try to on-sight this route. I think this route is easier to on-sight than Realm of the Overhang though this route is rated harder. Do not give up the crux move and just fly high!

Comments: This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's.

Comments: I am 175cm tall and chose the traverse start since direct start is too hard for me (with my height). If you traverse, the start 5 moves are the Crux. I would say the rest (from 2nd cilp to the anchor) is 5.9 to 5.10-.The first move to slap the slopey roof is a committed move as you get a swing if you fall. The belayer should be very attentive. For me, the first 5 moves isV3+ or V4 boulder problem. If you are 6 feet tall or so, you can do the direct start to avoid the nasty swing.

Comments: I fel the crux move is a bit harder than 5.11a. There may be a possibility that the crucial hold broke, making it a little harder?? (Persoannly, I felt the 5.11B/C route to the right of Permanet Erection is easier or at an eaual difficulty level.) Anyway, this is a very good climb.

Comments: This is rather a very awkward route for me! If you are only pulling plastics in the gym, you will find this route very difficult as this requires a lot of balancy and interesting moves that you do not encounter in the gym. I put a longer sling to the 2nd bolt to avoid the potential groundfall.

Comments: This is really an ejoyable route. I felt this is mentally harder than Skill Saw Groumet (11D) for me. I brought a sling to garth hitch to the pillow to protectthe 2nd clip (or the 3rd clip? if you clip to the left side bolt near the first bolt). Though the crux is a slab section with arete, my arms were really pumped!