Then as I reported a few weeks ago, another Italian eatery called Rustica was moving in in its place like an understudy. That, I thought, was that.

But today Eater LA has revealed a confounding twist in the narrative. Three days ago, a liquor license was activated in the Celestino Drago name at 1133 Newport Center Drive, which is at Fashion Island. Cue the Twilight Zone music.