After looking at the track, you have twice more turns to the right than to the left. Thus, the left side of the car's tires will be worn out more. The reason why such a radical difference is because of your loose setting. When you have fixed your loose setting you'll notice that the difference left-right should be minimum.

By the looks of the video, it looks like its a parking lot, therefore the traction would be somewhat medium. I'd suggest going 500cst weight on the shocks, (Stock Serpent is about 620ish), using blue upfront and yellow rear (old spring code). And 10k in the rear diff and 100k in the front diff.

Also, be sure your whole suspension is not binding, you can have Morganti's setup in your car, but if you have a mechanical failure, such as binding, or an unscrewed pulley, you arent getting anywhere.

Also, another thing to look at is the track width, I 99% of the time ran 199mm front and 200mm rear. Going to 199mm up front, I had to shave the half moon on the arms to be free of binding. Going anything narrower than 199, you'll have to probably shave something off the CVD/dog bone.

I have also found that tire split plays a huge component in setting. From 2mm split to 1mm split, the difference in "feel" of the car is huge.

I think it'd be easier if you just took a setup sheet filled it out and post it here. Then we might tell you where you can get the grip your looking for.

Spurgear: have you checked the rear left pivot balls and damper ? Just in case they're binding.

Dampers checked now and all shocks were refilled again with correct oil and 3 hole pistons. All pivot balls are good and free. Already checked two times. I may upgrade the luts to plastic ones just in case.

there is any chance to have put different gear in the side belt[maybe from other car] with result a very rear drive car?
does your rear diff acts freely?have you check his gears?
i have see worn inside gears with result a diff that acts sometimes like spool.
your car seems that is all time in ice.

I still say the chassis is bent or is bowing when you put on the top deck and or side braces. I had the same problem and tried everything to stick the rear and it was still loose and ate tires because of it. One side of the chassis was hitting the ground in the turns. Not front or rear, but right under the receiver.

My opinion, a wrong side pulley will make the car do the same thing in both directions so both rear tires should wear the same.

there is any chance to have put different gear in the side belt[maybe from other car] with result a very rear drive car?
does your rear diff acts freely?have you check his gears?
i have see worn inside gears with result a diff that acts sometimes like spool.
your car seems that is all time in ice.

I have double checked all the gears. I counted all the teeth and swapped them from another car to be sure. As far as the worn gears i have put in my diff and another spare diff that i will be testing tommorow with the 20,000 oil. So i dont think its the diff

Hey guys i have one more big race left for this car until my 733 comes in and of course i went to the track and i have a major problem. My one piece engine mount won't stay still and i stripped my 2nd gear and then i put a new one on and then stripped first and this is really dissapointing becaus i can't figure out why it won't stop moving i tried thread lock on the screws and took the motor out and cleaned the chassis where the engine mount sits and the bottom of the mount with rubbing alcohol to get off any oil or fuel that might have been making it slip but it didn't work.

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