I just refinished mine, but had to re-do the thing several times. The following information may be helpful to anyone endeavoring to re-finish their receiver:

First, I contacted Ruger and learned that the the factory finish is an epoxy spray paint. I glass bead-blasted the finish completely off down to the raw aluminum without incident. Then I used an aluminum "self-etching" primer (spray can which can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's) to prime. This primer actually etches into the top layer of the aluminum , changing the surface of the metal. Once the primer set, I used a high-temp Rustoleum (Ithink that's how it's spelled) matte black spray paint. Once the paint was set, I rubbed some Break Free CLP on it to test if the paint would hold up when I had to clean the receiver. The CLP (pretty mild stuff) took the paint right off. Back to square one, I used an aerosol paint stripper (which I also purchased from Home Depot) to remove the rest of the paint and primer to start over.

I re-primed, and used a product which was referred to me by a friend, who is an armorer, called Brownell's "Aluma-hyde II" epoxy spray paint. This stuff is specially designed for aluminum and will stand up to all the solvents out there. It's tough as nails and couldn't be happier with the outcome. I was originally going to have the receiver hard anodized ($65.00), but decided to go with the above.

I recently painted my 10/22 reciever. I used KG Gun Kote. I have heard good things about the Alumahyde II. Instead of glass bead, use aluminum oxide, as it gives a better cut in the surface. Not sure who was going to anodize your reciever, but anodizing die cast aluminium produces poor results because of the high silicon content in the metal. I contacted US Anodizing, and they won't even accept 10/22 recievers for anodizing. Guy said they turn a molted ugly grey because silicon won't anodize. I used one of those mini air eraser/sand blaster things from HF to blast it, a Paasche air brush to spray it, and a toaster oven I got at a garage sale for a dollar to bake it. I would like to see some other peoples home finishing jobs, post a pic and tell us any problems you ran into. Here's mine.

The problem with aluma-hyde is you get one good application out of a can. If you were to spray a second firearm it spits the paint out. It no longer sprays a fine mist. I have used aluma-hyde for years. Brownell's promises their cleaning tips will fix the issue. They don't!

The problem with aluma-hyde is you get one good application out of a can. If you were to spray a second firearm it spits the paint out. It no longer sprays a fine mist. I have used aluma-hyde for years. Brownell's promises their cleaning tips will fix the issue. They don't!

Compulsivegunbuyer has the best setup. Good Job!

Any spray tip will clog between spraying if you do not clean it.
When you are done with a coat flip the can over and spray it for a couple seconds. Until you see and hear a difference in the spray. It will stop shooting paint and only aerosol. This will clean the tip and make it work better for the next use.

__________________The above is not legal advice. It is just something you read from some dude on the internet. It does not reflect the opinion of Calguns.net. If it seems rude it was probably meant to read sarcastically.

I sand and polish my 10/22's when they start looking shabby, just my thing. I have one or two which I have left in the raw but they tend to be a little harder to keep clean but just take few minutes with a scotch brite pad to restore the raw look. Nice job on the new finish.

The toughest coating / paint I know of ( short of powder coating) is a true two part epoxy. The single part "epoxies" in a can dont even come close, because they are not real epoxy coatings. The only down side is that you need a rig to spray them either a all in one HPLV ( high pressure low volume) set up , or a HPLV gun and an air compressor. Or you can always get a stainless steel receiver for it and not have to worry about it.

I just cerrakoted my 10/22, easier than i expected. Used friends blasting cabinet with 120 grit in it, wiped down with acetone then used a Paasche airbrush set up to spray the receiver and trigger housing. I used the Olive Drab color, threw it in the oven for 2 hrs. to cure it and all done. All re assembled now but havent shot it yet.

I'd love to tell you what it cost, but I have no idea I was working for someone that uses them a LOT and I threw it into a batch of stuff that was getting hard anoed it came out fantastic. I'd sandblasted it prior to taking it to them, and had it prepped and ready to go. I'm also not working for the place that I was so I cant even help you there.

There's a true two-part epoxy called Klasskote available on line or from some of the larger hobby shops that deal with R/C aircraft. I have used the older K&B Superpoxy which this stuff was derived from and it works extremely well. If I ever had to refinish my older 10/22 I would certainly use it.