Remove the nuts and bolts around the head of the filter. The top then seperates from the bottom. if the top of the tank is broke you need to remove the black cover and continue disassembly.
Remove the grip from the handle. Usually a squeeze clip to slide grip off. Slide black cover over handle.
Remove bolt holding handle on to bump shaft, might be addtional drift pin that needs to be removed. Tap out with a drift punch.
Once these are removed the bump shaft will be attached to the top and bottom plates with the main gasket still attached. The filter Head is now free to be replaced.

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De is called diatomacious earth. It is a powder made to coat the grids of a de filter in order to trap small particles. Then you backwash the old de out, and replace with appropriate amount depending on your filter size. Backwashing only works for so long before you need to clean the grids and recharge them with fresh de.

First, I would make sure that you are adding the DE correctly to coat the inside. Make sure that you close the pool filter drain and the vent valve. Prime and start the pump. Air trapped in the system will vent to the pool. Once the air has escaped the filter and a steady stream of water is returning to the pool, the filter is ready for pre-coating. Be sure not to operate the filter for more than one minute without the pre-coat charge.Scoop 5 lbs of DE into through the skimmer as fast as the plumbing will take it. You could also have a hole or tear in one of the "fingers", in which case you need to replace it.

Is this a DE filter or a sand filter: Check all internal parts of your DE filter for holes or breaks. There is a hose inside that is suppose to eliminate air locks ... it may be submerged. Same applies to sand ... find the broken lateral or air lock preventing hose.

If you have a DE filter and sand is coming into the pool ... there is definitely a hole returning sand that bathers introduced into the pool ...

The head unit that reads the tape is dirty or clogged, or the tape has moisture on it. Try fast forwarding to the end of the tape then rewinding back to the beginning, sometimes this clears the moisture. If that doesn't work try buying a head cleaner from an electronics store and follow the instructions to clean the head. if that doesn't work you need to take it somewhere where they fix cameras or send it in to canon to get fixed. If nothing else works it's most likely a bad head. I have the exact same cam (zr400) and the same thing happened to me but rather than send it in to canon, (who refused to honor their warranty saying it had major sand damage when it never even went outside) i opened it myself and replaced the head with the one from my older zr65 camcorder. It worked flawlessly. Hope this helps -J

Try running the descale again it is possible that some of the minerals got loose and blocked the valve in the brew head. If that does not work then you will have to open the machine and unblock the valve or hose that is clogged.

The first thing you will do is turn off the system, change the valve position to the Backwash position. If you have a Multiport Valve, you will press down on the handle and spin it so that the knotch is pointed to BACKWASH. If you have a Slide Valve, only has two positions, up and down, you turn the handle so that the metal pin is out of the holder and move the handle in the opposite direction. You will need to turn the handle to lock the pin into position.

Once this is done, you will turn on your pump. Pentair recommends that you backwash for 1 minute, then turn off the pump.

If you have the Slide Valve, you will put it back into the FILTER position and then turn the pump back on for 1 minute. If you have the Multiport Valve, you will put it in the RINSE position and then turn the pump back on for 1 minute.

Pentair recommends that you do this cycle a total of three times, backwash/rinse, backwash/rinse, backwash/rinse. AFTER the third time, you will need to open the Air Release Valve at the top of the filter while the pump is OFF and the valve position in back on FILTER. Once this is done, turn on the pump. When you have a steady stream of water coming out of the Air Release Valve, close that up. This way you have no air in the system.

Now, you will mix your DE "Slurry" in a bucket. Depending on your model of filter, you will measure out your DE and mix with water to the consistancy of milk. **IF it is just a backwash, you will only add 80% of the original amount of DE. You only add the total 100% of DE when you completely take the filter apart and clean it out.**

You will slowly pour the slurry into the skimmer that is closest to the pump. This will allow the DE to evenly coat the grids in the filter. Wait about 5 minutes and then check the pressure gauge on the filter. Once the PSI reaches 8 to 10 PSI above this number, it is time to backwash.

First, I don't understand why I could not submit my question when the filter model I have was not listed in the drop-down of models. As I wrote in my question, I had to choose the wrong filter, JUST to get the question submitted. NOTE: This instruction is for Hayward DE filters. Mine is a DE 6000, but I believe the instructions apply to all sizes.

I did solve my question by:

Place the grid manifold upside down on a flat surface. (Holes up, remove the air escape tube first.)

Start with the SMALL filter grid(1 of 8) and insert it in the location hole to the left of the stand pipe inlet. (The LARGE hole in the manifold.)

Continue inserting the remaining 7 filter grids counterclockwise into the location holes, with the tight curl of the grid going toward the center.

The base plate (circular swirl piece) is now worked onto the filter grids, BEING SURE THE "CUT-OUT" FOR THE STANDPIPE ALIGNS WITH LARGE MANIFOLD HOLE, where the standpipe will be.

I found working from the center outward, and giggling the plate as I progressed, the filter grid ends worked their way into place. You'll know it's in place when the plate feels solid and is parallel with the manifold. The filter ends will be in the correct notches and the grids will be symmetrical.

Drop the stainless center rod (with washer and nut in place) through the base plate and into the hole in the center of the manifold.

Holding the assembly together, by pressing the base plate and manifold together (with one finger on the rod), turn filter grid assembly over.

Place washer, and tighten nut, on top of rod. Replace air escape tube and tighten clamp.

Lightly lube the standpipe with Vaseline and place the filter grid assembly into the bottom filter housing.

Lightly coat large "O" ring with Vaseline and place onto top lip of bottom filter housing.

Place filter housing top on top of the filter housing bottom, being sure to create an equal size gap between the 2 pieces.

Place the clamp ring around the seam and tighten both screws until the springs are completely compressed. (There will be a slight gap between the clamp ring halves.)

Fire up the pump, add fresh DE through the skimmer return line to the filter, and enjoy your pool.