Brake shield is pretty effective at keeping brake dust from getting on your wheels. Having said that, I have never known of a production vehicle shedding enough brake dust to get on the body...race cars yes, but not production vehicles of any sort that I know of.

Are you sure it is brake dust getting on the body instead of just dirt or road tar? White will show anything that gets on it.....

Brake dust should just wash off the paint..don't know why the dealer said they would buff it unless it is indeed something else.

sonax will have a brake dust repellant offered in 2007 and unlike others, it actually works. but i've never heard of brake dust reaching the body of the car. but the sonax offering is really good. it is gonna be marketed in their premium u.s. line as nts7 by sonax. great stuff!

If so, it could be Railroad Train Rail Dust. The train's steel wheels grind the rails ever so slightly and the resultant metallic dust gets deposited on the truck during shipping. It was on my F350 before I took delivery. Little rust spots all over the sides when you looked at it closely. :mad: :mad: I refused the truck until dealer rubbed out the finish with a Clay Bar to remove the brake dust, and then polished and waxed it. Once the initial rail dust was removed I haven't seen any other rusting flecks in my finish..

I have a 2004 F-150 (63,00 mi) I put new rotors and pads on the front this weekend. Now When I use the brakes for the first 2-3 times the are really resistant. They shake pretty bad and after they stop my e brake light and my ABS light turn on. We have tried bleeding the brakes several time. Disconnected the battery to see if it was a computer problem, and looked for any possible leaks in the brake line. Nothing worked. Help Please

The ABS light is on all the time, also the ABS unit is running all the time and the only way you turn the unit off is desconnecting the battery. Can you give me suggestions on how to resolve this problem. The truck has new brakes and speed sensor. Thank you for your advice. cpagan76@netzero.net

The ABS light is on all the time, also the ABS unit is running all the time and the only way you turn the unit off is disconnecting the battery. Can you give me suggestions on how to resolve this problem. The truck has new brakes and speed sensor. Thank you for your advice.

Defintely check that if the lights are on. Mine shudder a little, but I have just over 50K miles on the orginal rotors (turned once). I cant see a new assembly shaking that bad unless the new rotors were mis-aligned when installed (or maybe badly warped, but how?!) The only other thing I can think of would be to check the calipers and make sure that both sides are meeting the rotor like they should be, but I can't really see how that would cause the shaking part

When I stepped on the brakes the truck started jumping and made a loud grinding sound for just a few seconds but did slow down, a few minutes later when I stopped it was fine. After being parked and not running for maybe 15 minutes I took off again and drove four blocks, this time it slowed fine but made a screaming sound then three blocks later when I stopped it was fine. Any suggestions?

I had the same problem with my 2000 F250, even after a complete brake job. My mechanic checked everything out and said he thought it was a short somewhere but he didnt think it would be worth the money to track it down since its pushing 300K. I have also sufferred thru the airbag light and now its the battery light.

I have a 1976 ford F150 4x4 with vacuum assist:Front brakes will not relieve pressure after braking. I have replaced calipers, master cylinder, and front lines. I'm stumped and would appreciate any help.

Did you change out the brake hoses too? I had a similar problem on a '73 Econoline van - turned out that the inside of the brake hose was disintegrating and a chunk of rubber acted as a one-way valve on brake fluid. You could apply the brakes, but then it took like 3-4 minutes before the caliper would release. New hoses, no problem. Just my $0.02.

Hi.My 2005 F 150 with 22,000 miles had a constant squeel in the brakes. The dealer turned the rotors and the pads are about 80% of the new ones. The squeeling in the brakes has returned but not as bad as before. Any suggestions?

The ABS light on my '99 stays on all the time now. Before, it was just intermittent. My mechanic says that there is a bad sensor in the differential and there is absolutely no safety issue. Another guy told me that if the light is on, the ABS system is not working (obviously a safety issue).

While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice.

I have an 06 F150 with ~20K miles with no problems of any kind. On recent trip was on road for ~6 hrs. When taking exit ramp I MAY (can't remember for sure) have TAPPED (not more) brake pedal. Suddenly (1) warning buzzer went off and at the same time (2) ABS light illuminated and (3) TCS light illuminated. I was on exit ramp so checked for brakes - - normal braking. ABS and TCS lights remained illuminated (steady). Drove home shut down and unpacked. Restarted truck to park it - - ABS light on steady and TCS light OFF. Checked several days later ABS light on steady, TCS light OFF. Any suggestions? Speed sensor?

The ABS light on my '99 stays on all the time now. Before, it was just intermittent. My mechanic says that there is a bad sensor in the differential and there is absolutely no safety issue. Another guy told me that if the light is on, the ABS system is not working (obviously a safety issue). The bad sensor call is likely correct. If so, you don't have ABS. You DO have normal braking (probably why the mechanic says "no safety issue") You have to decide how badly you want ABS.

While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice.Not common for any truck I've heard of. Were the pads gone? That said, I don't know (1) driving habits (2) operating conditions or (3) what kind of loads you're carrying. Could be a combination of all. Non-negative Fact: Some people wear out brakes (and vehicles) faster than others.

I know that a slight hiss when pressing brake is normal and has to do with something called a brake assist.

Prior to my last brake job at the Ford dealer, the hiss was short in duration, and when depressing the brake pedal, the normal travel distance before braking was approximately 2".

After last brake job at the dealer (master cyclinder, calipers, drums/discs resurface, and adjust rea brake regulators), the hiss sound was much longer in duration, and the pedal travel increased to 4 1/2" (i.e. nearly to the floor starting from 6"). Ford has maintained nothing wrong. Wrong - it has been downright scary to have to press the brake pedal that far. (They system has been bled numerous times with no change - even immediately after bleeding.)

I have since replace the MC with a MC with a larger (bore?). The brake pedal travel is now 3" (getting closer to the way it was before).

Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance?

If the sensor in the differential is bad, just replace it. It's not expensive nor is it difficult to replace. Its held in with one 10mm bolt located on top of the differential above the drive shaft area. When your ABS light is on, it just means that your onboard computer has dedected a problem and disabled the ABS only. You still have reagular power brakes. Technically, I guess it is a safety issue, but not much of one.

Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance? Yes & Yes

The longer hissing sound is caused by the hydralic assist to have to either work harder or longer to push on the Master cylinder to pressurise the brake system.

Lets assume for the moment that there is no new problem with the assist part of the system. You didn't have this problem until the brakes were done. Right? This symptom is telling me that there is a lack of restriction in the hydrallic brake lines somewhere, such as ; incorrect brake calipers or incorrect rear wheel cylinders(for regular power brakes lets say) or in some cases there is an ajustment rod with a backwards threaded bolt coming out of the assist,(not all models). This adjustment is critical for proper braking. Very unlikly this rod if your truck has it is causing this symptom. If I had to take a guess without inspecting the brakes on this vehicle, my money is on incorrect calipers or wheel cylinders. Here is my explanation that would have to be researched and inspected on your truck. Sometimes calipers and wheel cylinders for a regular power brake system and a hydralic assist look the same, but the chambers or cavities inside them are different sizes. This means they require different amounts of hydralic pressure from the master cylinder. You need a very experienced technician to check this for you. And yes, the Dealer does make mistakes. I fix one of their screw ups at least once a month. Good luck!

I just bought an Actron CP9180 reader. On the Diagnostic Monitor Tests, I getTest $26 LowTest $2a LowTest $2b LowTest $56 HighThis on a Ford E-150, 4.2I tried to find what monitor tests check, but I cannot decifer these codes.Can someone point me in the right dirrection.I have a rough running engine that is driving me nuts. All of the OBD codes say ok.

Took it to the ford dealership to have the brakes done. (sticking- ended up being rust)

HOWEVER... because of the low mileage, they said that we misused the vehicle by letting it "sit". So the dealership said the warranty was void and we paid the repair on a credit card, they would not release the vehicle to us otherwise. This truck is driven at least twice a week (except for a one month period when Dad was in hospital). This truck has never been off road or on a gravel road for that matter. the brakes should not have rust.

I've read and re-read the warranty manual. nowhere is it mentioned that lack of use equals missuse.... there are no aftermarket parts, and we follow the maintenance schedule.

I suspect the dealership didn't even call ford warranty.

How do i get them to honor the warranty... (I wanted to call ford warranty, but they apparently only "talk shop" with dealers, not owners...)

One evening a box on the drivers side under the hood started buzzing. It would not stop until I unplugged it. After that the ABS light has stayed on. I have tried plugging it back in thinking that it might "reset " or something but it immediatly starts buzzing again. I have just drove it like that for months but it would be nice to have my baby running right. Any suggestions?Thanks,Chuck

Last night the ABS light went on and a humming started from under the hood. Even with the engine off, the humming continued.

I found out today my ABS sensor was shorted. The mechanic took out a fuse so my battery wouldn't die (I disconnected the battery last night to avoid this). The ABS is not functional, but the brakes still work. There is little safety issue other than some tire slippage in wet conditions.

The part is coming in tomorrow. Rather pricey. $620 w/labor to fix the ABS.