Thx for the addresses. Not sure why I had trouble with Amazon. Just tried it again and seems to have worked. Also I live very close to one of those you listed will go by there today and see if they have it in stock.

In the past, i have ordered from Amazon (using the WR login), Woodcraft and Rockler.Brick & Mortar, I usually by from Woodcraft.Vic sinai wrote on Mar 1st, 2017 at 12:13pm:

Just looking for a high gloss application that I can use for decorative pieces.

If your pieces are truly only decorative (not utilitarian) then you have plenty of options to achieve a high gloss finish. Along with oil-based products like polyurethanes, there are water-based products, lacquers, and spray applications.Some people even use automotive finishing products.

I really don't think that General Finishes Wipe On is that much different than Minwax Wipe On. You can get a high gloss with either one. As Tom C. said, a dozen coats is not unusual, although I think 8-10 is more typical for me. I wet sand (soapy water) with 400 grit SiC paper between coats, or every other coat. And don't forget buffing, after the last coat has been allowed to cure. IMHO Beall buffing is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

Appreciate everyone's comments. Currently I'm on my 7th or 8th coat with the Minwax Poly Wipe. It's very slow but getting better. Was hoping for something that could get the result a little quicker, ie fewer coats, less time. Maybe not though. Just have to learn to enjoy the process I guess. Still very new to all this, but am learning.

I really don't think that General Finishes Wipe On is that much different than Minwax Wipe On.

Different products, personal preference. IMO GF is much harder when cured but I did say earlier in this thread."Minwax Wipe-On-Poly can give you a high gloss finish but it will take several applications."In some aspects, poly is poly

There has been no mention of the wood you are working with - my experience is that very smooth woods like hard maple and bradford pear will achieve any particular level of shine faster than oak and ash.

By nature, a wipe on finish is thin so it can be applied as a wipe on. A certain thickness of dried finish (film) is needed to achieve a particular sheen, and it takes more coats of a very thin finish than a thicker version of the same finish.

I make a wiping varnish by thinning Pratt & Lambert 38 (don't think that is available in CA) 50% with mineral spirits and it takes 5-7 applications to achieve a good shine. But I can apply one coat by 10 AM, one at say 1:30, and another at 6 before I go home, whereas a brushed full strength coat probably needs 24 hours to cure.

You might consider practicing and experimenting with some flat pieces of wood for convenience.

So I think what I'm learning from all of you is that it takes work and thought to achieve a desired result. Never thought of the wood aspect and how hardness can affect finishes. Experimentation will also be needed. This is what makes it all so interesting. There is so much you can learn if you want to. Thank you all again.

Just FYISouthern California has some different (more restrictive) rules than the rest of the state.Like this."SCAQMD is the air pollution control agency for all of Orange County and the urban portions of Los Angeles, Riverside and San Bernardino counties, among the smoggiest regions of the U.S. We are committed to protecting the health of residents, while remaining sensitive to businesses."Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!! You need to or

I know in the past that some of this stuff didn't work as well as the regular did (I used to live in Southern CA) but IMO it has gotten much better over the years.

I used to use Minwax Wipe on Polyurethane (WOP) , however a buddy gave me a can of the general finishes material and found that it worked better for me when applying it the way I apply it. That said, I find that I can only use about 1/2 the can (over about 10 months) before the material in the can gets too thick to use. I have tried using mineral spirits to thin it back, but it is never the same as new material.

I need to find effective smaller containers to transfer to, keeping the air contact to a minimum for the longest time possible. I have found that plastic containers do not work well for this . I think I will try smaller mason jars next. If you do this, BE SURE TO MARK ALL CONTAINERS. And my own personal experience tells me to mark them BEFORE transferring the liquid..... don't ask...

Make sure the rim of the container is clean before you seal it. I have vacuum sealed some in the past with mixed results.Recently I have simply been putting the entire quart can in a 1 gallon size zip-loc bag. Just another layer of protection from outside air. It seems to works as good as anything else and it's easy.Also, the shelf life is pretty well fixed on many of these products, it's almost impossible to extend it no matter what you do.

For all my non utilitarian pieces I have been using Mylands high build friction polish. Its not cheap but a little goes a long way and its fast. I can get a smooth glossy finish right on the lathe in about 10 minutes.

Just wanted to tell you guys that about 10 coats in and almost 1/2 can of Poly Wipe I finally got the look I was after. Glass. I wish the bowl itself looked that good. It's my 3rd attempt and ok for that I guess. Thx again for your comments and help.