"It was mid-April [1965]...There was still six feet of snow on the ground in the Valley. It was obviously going to be a cold ascent and we were only taking down jackets. We would use our rucksacks for our feet. Layton had borrowed two pairs of Jumars from somebody and he had shown me how they worked in the tent the night before. We would not take a stove- just cheese, bologna, gorp, and water. Kor was convinced we could use candles to warm our hands on the bivouac. That was his “plan.”

The temperature was in the 40s and everything was wet and it was getting dark – and did I say it was cold? Never fear, we have candles. We settled down in our dampened down jackets with our feet in our rucksacks. Kor fought desperately with damp matches to light up three candles. With our 3-candlepower heater ablaze we soon realized that whatever heat was being generated, we couldn’t feel it. The worthless matriarchal prostitutes! It wasn’t all a lost cause – we did have a cozy candle lit dinner.,."

Quick math, he was borneded in 32, from 65, he was 33 when he did his first big wall.