DESIGN | MENSWEAR | SQUIRE

Squire was a concept project that started in 1991, fusing the ideas of fashion, art and design into one aesthetic. The gallery was at No.17 Clifford street, in between Savile Row and Cork Street. The outer gallery showed art and the inner gallery was designated for menswear fashion design. In an era where the boundaries of every discipline was very rigid, Squire was the first contemporary space in London to show art, fashion and design all in one space.

The Squire suit designed in 1991 was a slim, short monochromatic modern silhouette, a reaction against the long, wide and baggy tailoring that was only available in menswear at that time. Squire brought to London and menswear a new era of sharp contemporary tailoring , suits worn without ties and slim silhouettes, were a sharp contrast to the heavy designer looks more commonly on show. Squire was influential, but it wasn't until many years later that recognition for its pioneering design became known, As Luke Leitch, writer for Vogue, delicately put it in a recent review when commenting on who pioneered this new suit style initially, he quotes - ‘’ first at Squire and then Kilgour, Brandelli anticipated Slimane and Simmons stripping back the suit by slimming it, razionalising it and thus sleekening it’’ ( January 2015)

It was during this period that Carlo also started to work on the idea of UNSTRUCTURED TAILORING. Several Japanese designers were already involved in the de constructed movement, producing design that was long and boxy, Carlo wanted to completely reduce and propose an idea of contemporary tailoring, by lightening the suit and eliminating any internal structure, the result was a new identity for a once traditional part of a man's uniform.

The Squire gallery became the meeting point for London's emerging creative centre, Helmut Lang, Kate Moss and Alexander Mcqueen were all clients and collaborators, and it was here that Carlo established his long term partnership with Nick Knight and Peter Saville ( Photographer & Art Director).