Turkish Pumpkin Soup

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CreditAndrew Scrivani for The New York Times

By Martha Rose Shulman

Jan. 13, 2014

This is an intriguingly sweet winter squash soup, based on a recipe by Ghillie Basan from her wonderful book, “Classic Turkish Cooking.” The sweetness comes from the squash itself and the allspice and cinnamon, with the addition of only a teaspoon of honey or sugar. The sour and spicy yogurt and chile garnish make a great flavor contrast.

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy soup pot or Dutch oven and add the onion and the sliced leek. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Do not brown. Add a generous pinch of salt and the garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic smells fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

2. Add the squash, allspice, cinnamon, stock or water, rice, honey or sugar, and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes.

3. Using a hand blender, or in batches in a regular blender, purée the soup. If using a regular blender fill only half way and cover the top with a towel pulled down tight, rather than airtight with the lid, because hot soup will jump and push the top off if the blender is closed airtight. Return to the pot and heat through, stirring. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Ladle the soup into serving bowls. Swirl a tablespoon or two of yogurt into each bowl and sprinkle with Aleppo pepper, Turkish red pepper or chili powder.

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

Advance preparation: The soup will keep for 2 or 3 days in the refrigerator and can be frozen. You may need to thin it out a bit before you serve.