Hi guys, i'm new on this forum. Just got my GC my14 three weeks ago and need to put a brake controller in . I have just read all 742 posts on this thread. What a wonderful wealth of information. It's nice to know i won't be going where no man has gone before. Much appreciated.
Peter

Welcome! All your questions are answered in just two simple characters, P3.

For those that have wired in an Anderson plug to the rear of the car, have you taken this feed from the battery, or from the jump start posts under the bonnet?
The reason I ask is, at this stage I see no need to run power into the rear of my car for a dual battery setup (in the future, maybe). I want to run some 6B&S to an Anderson to enable better charging of the 100AH battery in my van.
I will also run a CTEK in the van as I plan on buying a portable solar panel as well to top up whilst free camping.

I figured it would be easier to run the 6B&S from the jump posts under the car to the towbar, rather than pulling the interior apart, yes?

For those that have wired in an Anderson plug to the rear of the car, have you taken this feed from the battery, or from the jump start posts under the bonnet?
The reason I ask is, at this stage I see no need to run power into the rear of my car for a dual battery setup (in the future, maybe). I want to run some 6B&S to an Anderson to enable better charging of the 100AH battery in my van.
I will also run a CTEK in the van as I plan on buying a portable solar panel as well to top up whilst free camping.

I figured it would be easier to run the 6B&S from the jump posts under the car to the towbar, rather than pulling the interior apart, yes?

Cheers,
Matty

I had previuosly did my last car with both anderson plug and battery in the tray.

I just ran mine on the weekend, 6 B&S from the battery, I followed the destruction in this thread, except after I got the cable into the wheel well, you will see 2 black patches next to the tailgate latch these go to 2 gromets directly underneath. I just used a long screwdriver and punched a hole thru the expanda foam(collision assist !) and had both brake controller and power cable come out right next to towbar. Pulling the inside apart is no big deal.

There is heaps of room under the rear tailgate section where the latch is, so my plan is to out a isolator under there with a switch next to the pop out torch, in case the missus has a flat battery to bridge the small AGM I will put in the wheel well. I am yet to wire up the power

My caravan I am about to re-run in 6 B&S with a DC-DC charger as well.

It's one of those decisions Matty. Running under the car has appeal in that there is less trim removal, but the trade off is that the wiring is sometimes more vulnerable. With enough careful routing this can be minimised, though if you have skid plates it could be harder than an interior run. Working under the car usually mandates a hoist or pit... if you value your back and neck.

Have you considered using a cable snake to assist running the cable through the interior? You might find some trims can be left in place. A piece of the plastic strip off yellow tongue board or similar can work wonders. I have a stainless steel cable snake and find the leftover building scrap can work better as it's less inclined to snag on underfelt and cable clips.

All this said, I like to know that power cable is seated nicely and tucked away inside the cabin.

I ran 6B&S off the battery, via an Isolator, which also resides in the battery compartment. It is not difficult to remove the trim, and mak take 45mins all up to remove and replace. The areas out of reach are short, and you can most probably access all areas without a pull wire. Most of the trim can just be loosened rather than removed.
An option you have, if you wish to expand on your battery requirements, is to run the 6B&S to a terminal box at the rear of the car. You then have the flexibility to then junction off to powerpoints, battery, or the Anderson plug.

I've already got a VSR mounted under the bonnet right next to the jump posts that has a 6mm hotwire running to pin 9 (IIRC) on my 12 pin plug for the van, so I figured I'd be able to follow that cables path.
I'll put it into OR2 and get under with my garage floor creeper and have a look tomorrow.

Is this wise? I think I have read that the car will settle lower after the engine is turned off. (I assume you will have the engine off before crawling underneath) I would hate for you to climb underneath your car only for it to settle down on top off you. Careful how you go there Matty470.

If that's possible, it's a bit of a worry - does it mean that when I park it somewhere in ORA2 I need to be sure it's not over a hard pointy rock?
Russell

For those that have wired in an Anderson plug to the rear of the car, have you taken this feed from the battery, or from the jump start posts under the bonnet?
The reason I ask is, at this stage I see no need to run power into the rear of my car for a dual battery setup (in the future, maybe). I want to run some 6B&S to an Anderson to enable better charging of the 100AH battery in my van.
I will also run a CTEK in the van as I plan on buying a portable solar panel as well to top up whilst free camping.

I figured it would be easier to run the 6B&S from the jump posts under the car to the towbar, rather than pulling the interior apart, yes?

Cheers,
Matty

One of the biggest problems with auxiliary battery wiring is voltage drop. You won't know if you have a voltage drop problem until you have hooked everything up. Going from the jump start posts makes any potential voltage drop problem worse. The reason I went internally from the battery to the rear was simply to get the shortest possible route.

I am not referring to the lowering resulting from having the Auto Entry/Exit Suspension mode enabled via the UConnect touchscreen "as this only occurs if the shift lever is in 'PARK', the terrain switch is in 'AUTO', the transfer-case is in 'AUTO' and the vehicle level should be either in Normal or Aero Mode. The Vehicle will not automatically lower if the air suspension level is in Off Rd 2 or Off Rd 1."

The lowering to which I am referring is the "After the engine is turned off, it may be noticed that the air suspension system operates briefly, this is normal. The system is correcting the position of the vehicle to ensure a proper appearance." (page 436 of the 2014 Owners Manual. Full description of Quadralift modes and functioning starts on page 433)

So, It4vette, I don't think you need worry about parking your vehicle somewhere in ORA2 and having it lower itself onto a hard pointy rock. I just wanted to alert Matty470 to the possibility (if he didn't already know) of his vehicle lowering after he turns the engine off, and to wait until it has done so before thinking about getting under his vehicle.

I personally would appropriately place a couple of axle stands or the like to ensure that should it settle further, then the vehicle would settle onto those and not my fat guts. I could then raise it off those by re-starting the car whilst still in ORA2.

I am not referring to the lowering resulting from having the Auto Entry/Exit Suspension mode enabled via the UConnect touchscreen "as this only occurs if the shift lever is in 'PARK', the terrain switch is in 'AUTO', the transfer-case is in 'AUTO' and the vehicle level should be either in Normal or Aero Mode. The Vehicle will not automatically lower if the air suspension level is in Off Rd 2 or Off Rd 1."

The lowering to which I am referring is the "After the engine is turned off, it may be noticed that the air suspension system operates briefly, this is normal. The system is correcting the position of the vehicle to ensure a proper appearance." (page 436 of the 2014 Owners Manual. Full description of Quadralift modes and functioning starts on page 433)

So, It4vette, I don't think you need worry about parking your vehicle somewhere in ORA2 and having it lower itself onto a hard pointy rock. I just wanted to alert Matty470 to the possibility (if he didn't already know) of his vehicle lowering after he turns the engine off, and to wait until it has done so before thinking about getting under his vehicle.

I personally would appropriately place a couple of axle stands or the like to ensure that should it settle further, then the vehicle would settle onto those and not my fat guts. I could then raise it off those by re-starting the car whilst still in ORA2.

Gr8Ness

It is something i need to chat to my dealer about
The last time i used the jeep off road it did lower it self from off road 2 to normal road level when i switched off get get out and move an obstical.