I have an old Rheem unit and the condensation drain was clogged. The water backed up into the unit I think. By the way, this rheem unit is a attic type. So when I unclogged the drain I could see the condensate flow. But I think that there maybe still some water behind where the condensate is coming from. Can I get access to the inside? Or do I have to wait and hopefully it will dry up eventually??

Hi,
Just run it in fan only mode for a while to dry it out...
You will not hurt anything...Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

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If the unit is freezing you will begin to see frost building up on the larger diameter copper. Also if you take the panel off of the evaporator coil (section that the copper is entering) you should be able to dump some water in the pan And make sure it is draining. Slowly pour the water.

Call Rheem and they will recommend calling installer since tankless computers are non intended as do-it-yourself.If condensate drain is blowing out 'air' do not forget this air is deadly poison CO gas and will kill you, first giving you a headache that goes away when you are out of house. Remove affected people from home and put into fresh air and lay on side, never on back or they will suffocate. Call 911 immediately and most will recover.Copy following link for resources and required maintenance for tankless computers that heat water: scroll down to venting and manuals and review each to check how vent lines are set up, and that condensate line is set correctly. However this information is NOT guaranteed to match each model made by Rheem as they advance their product marketing strategy to exclude as much safety information as possible for do-it-yourselfers.http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.htmlCondensate lines can clog over time. Clean line with compressed air, and soak in clorox, and swing around overhead to remove anything inside line. This line contains bacteria so do it in neighbor's yard.Not all conditions produce vent condensate. Condensate might not form in vent line if weather is dry and the vent has good draft. But later when conditions change, condensate might begin flowing.Condensate is caused from burning hydrocarbon fossil fuels in any gas appliance. But problem is bigger with tankless since these appliance consume so much fuel per heating event since tankless are required to heat water rapidly as water passes by in a pipe. This is why tankless require larger incoming gas line, and larger vent line made from specific materials for the vent.Among the long list of poisonous by-products being vented outdoors into the air our planet breathes is acidic water vapor. If conditions are such that the vapor condenses before reaching outdoor, then the acidic water gathers in the vent line and rolls back toward the tankless computer, and goes down into the condensate drain and then down into your pluming drain where it can corrode pipes and add acid by-product to other environments.If the acidic water is allowed to fall back into tankless heat exchanger instead of down condensate drain, then eventually it will chew a hole through the special nickle alloy heat exchanger (imagine the hole it will chew through household drain lines), and the surprise will not be evident for a few years until leak develops and the tankless exchanger must be replaced at great expense, plus repairs to shorted motherboard and electrical sensors.Just don't install tankless computer water heater is best solution for myriad of problems, maintenance, and expense of owning a device that must immediately monitor incoming and outgoing water temperatures and flow rates, incoming gas flow rate and pressure, outgoing vent flow and pressure, interact with a remote control device, while monitoring burn rates and combustion temperature using a computer motherboard that is not protected from line interference or power surge, etcJust install tank-type heater:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.htmlGenehh

Check condensate water /drain stopped up. It will allow a start after a reset but then it shuts the combustion air fan down and that shuts the unit down this will require a service tech make sure their familiar
with 95% units

Error codes are start point for troubleshoot.Error 14 is 'overheat wrap fault.'This can include venting problem, failed heat exchanger, bad safety circuit, gas problem.Rheem does not have a service manual posted for this specific problem.

Additional information: Tankless water heaters consume large amounts of gas during combustion. The combustion burns away hydrogen and the remaining poisonous byproduct is vented into the atmosphere at each home day and night.Byproduct includes acidic water vapor that condenses along the vent pipe and drips back down vent.Each tankless vent pipe has a drain line that directs acidic water into household drain.If this drain line becomes clogged, or if vent was not installed correctly, then water drips down into heat exchanger and can erode or crack exchanger.The typical maintenance manual above shows steps that can solve many tankless problems before they happen.

Additional
information: Tankless water heaters consume large amounts of gas during
combustion. The combustion burns away hydrogen and the remaining
poisonous byproduct is vented into the atmosphere at each home day and
night.Byproduct includes acidic water vapor that condenses along the vent pipe and drips back down vent.Each tankless vent pipe has a drain line that directs acidic water into household drain.If
this drain line becomes clogged, or if vent was not installed
correctly, then water drips down into heat exchanger and can erode or
crack exchanger.The typical maintenance manual above shows steps that can solve many tankless problems before they happen.

Hello, usually water will leak from a furnace if the condensate line is clogged, or the condensate pan is cracked. If you have a shop vac try to hook it up to the outlet of the drain line and use the suction pressure to remove the sludge that is clogging it up. If the drain line appears to be clean the most likey the condensate pan is cracked or rusted and causing the leak.

There are many factors that cause problem you describe: bad PC board, sensor problem, loose wires, crossover in single-handled faucet, lime build-up in heat exchanger, clogged water filter.The remote control might give you an error code. Error code is a starting point for troubleshoot. Error code on one unit can have different cause than same error code on different unit.

Upvote the help.And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

POWER OFF ..ya i think its plastic so if it does break you can picj it out with a screw driver and A HACKSAW BLADE. then go buy a brass plug or a new valve.. a ball valve would be nice.. did you know that you shold drain the tank EVERY YEAR ! AND SHUT THE POWER OFF
if i was of help please tell me.. tahks ..jay

hi! there,
well we have to do something about that,if you mention of fan spin and it pushes air but no cold enough on it,this refer to blower on compressor, there is fan on outside the condenser,so we are on blower w/c does not blow enough cold air,there are factors we can check,first thermostat try to adjust thermostat to the coldest point,
observed if cold was increasing if not, 2nd have clean the filter from evaporator it may have a clogged, check evaporator if there freezing ice on bottom portion of evaporator w/c cold was coming out,have it clean,cleaning this is done by certified a/c technician,there is problem if have an insufficient cold,this is the symptom of your system was under charge lack of freon,this can check by technician w/ clamp ammeter device.the operating current should be equal to rated current on manual,inform service center about this,have a nice day don't forget to rate me.thanks's