Mountaineering Expedition visited Pakistan during 2007

Expedition Report

Pakistan is bestowed with the largest collection of the spectacular and lofty mountains in the world. It is here in Northern Areas that three magnificent mountain ranges on Earth; Karakoram, Himalayas and Hindukush make a rendezvous. In their fold these ranges boast off more than 720 peaks rising above 6,000 metres, including more than 160 rising above 7,000 metres, and five towering above 8,000 metres topped by the second highest peak of the world - the savage Chogori or K-2 (8,616m). Northern Areas and Chitral offer vast potential and opportunities for mountain related adventure sports and activities i.e., climbing, mountaineering, skiing, white water rafting etc and is rightfully claimed as paradise for mountaineers, mountain adventure seekers and nature lovers.Every year thousands of trekkers and mountaineers from around the world visit this fascinating region.
In 2007 91 applications were received for granted Permission in Ministry of Tourism Pakistan. 83 applicants granted permission to climb respective Peaks of their choice including 14 applicants who were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each, one 3-peaks and an other one was permitted to climb 4-peaks whereas 02 expeditions could not be granted permission to climb peaks situated close to war zone Siachen Glacier, 06 expeditions withdrew their applications. As such overall 102 attempts were made by 799 members of 83 expeditions, to climb 22 peaks, out of which 201 climbers including 13 from Pakistan, were successful in hoisting their national Flags, on the summit of 07 peaks.

Broad Peak 8047-M Golden Jubilee Year 2007

2007 was the Golden Jubilee Year of the First Ascent of Broad Peak which was climbed for the first time 50 years back on 09 June 1957 by Austrian climbers Mr. Marcus Schmuck, Mr. Fritz Wintersteller, Mr. Diemberger and Mr. Hermann Buhl. A 26 members strong Austrian team led by Mr. Gerfried Gopsche arrived in Pakistan on 18 June 2007 in a bid to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of the first ascent of Broad Peak in a befitting manner by putting their national flag on the summit of Broad Peak during its Golden Jubilee year 2007. Finally 8-members of this Expedition including the leader were successful in reaching the 8047 Meters high summit of Broad Peak on 20 July & 31 July 2007. That is how, very proudly, the Austrians celebrated the Golden Jubilee of the First Ascent of Broad Peak. On their return from the mountains all summiteers were awarded certificates by Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Overall 25 Expeditions tried their luck on Broad Peak, out of which 19 Expeditions have been successful in putting 77 members including 6 Pakistani climbers on the summit of Broad Peak and only 06 Expeditions have returned un-successful.
Renowned Mountaineer Simone Moro also applied to climb this peak in Winter 2007 and he was briefed at Alpine Club of Pakistan on 2nd January 2008,Now he is on his way to climb Broad Peak in Winter with Leonhard Werth and a local Pakistani mountaineer.

K2 8611-M

Unlike last year, this year was a successful year for climbers on K2. 130 climbers of 16 expeditions tried to summit the savage mountain K2, out of which 29 climbers of 08 expeditions were successful in hoisting their National Flags on top of K2. Russian Expedition led by Mr. Nikolay Tatmyanin created a new route on the West Wall of K2 and 11 of its members including the leader successfully climbed K2 through this new route on 21st & 22nd August 2007. On their return from the mountains they were greeted by Prime Minister of Pakistan

Gasherbrum II (8035– M)

This year was an un-successful climbing year for G II, 14 Expeditions were granted permission to climb G-II out of which just one has been successful in putting its 04 members on the summit of G-II, All remaining 13 Expeditions returned without success. Unluckily there was one casualty on this peak, Mr. Jiri Danek member of Czech Expedition died after being hit by an avalanche. This avalanche disturbed the whole climbing route. It became difficult to find a new route, therefore, no other expedition could climb it.

Gasherbrum I 8068-M

A successful climbing year for G-I. 96 members of 10 Expeditions tried to surmount impregnable G-I out of which 27 climbers of 06 Expeditions succeeded in putting their National Flags on the summit of G-I, including 3 Pakistani climbers, remaining 04 expeditions have returned un-successful. This year Chinese Team under the leadership of Sam Drug claims having completed their tally of all 14-Peaks above 8,000 Meters as a team which is a would record.

Nanga Parbat 8125- M

Year 2007 was a unique successful year for climbing Nanga Parbat. 05 Expeditions visited Pakistan this year to surmount the invincible Nanga Parbat and luckily all 05 expeditions were successful in putting 17 out of 32 climbers on top of this invincible mountain without any accident.
Italian mountaineer Simone La Terra also tried to climb Nanga Parbat in winter but unsuccessful.

Spantik 7027-M

There were 11 Expeditions on Spantik Peak out of which 10 have returned successful by putting 44 climbers including 04 Pakistani on the Summit. 01 Austrian Expedition led by Mr. Hannes Niederseer has been reported unsuccessful.

K 7

Only one American Expedition led by Mr. Steven E. House was launched on West Face of K-7 which has climbed successfully by putting all 03 members on top.

Total Number of Summiteers

In all 201 mountaineers of 50 Expeditions have been successful in reaching the summit of above-mentioned 07 mountains.

Fatalities

Six fatalities occurred during the mountaineering season 2007 in Pakistan.

1 Ms Ulrike Gschwandtner of Austria Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 3rd July 2007 due to heart failure.

2 Mr. Arne Heckele of Germany Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 18th July 2007 being hit by Avalanche.

3 Mr.Ernst Robert Zanner of Germany Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 18th July 2007 being hit by Avalanche.

4 Italian ZAVKA STEFANO died on 20th July 2007
He was the member of Italian K2 Expedition 2007 led by Nardi Daniele.
Zavka Stefano was missed when he was descending from summit of K2.

5 Czech Jiri Danek died on 29th July 2007
He was the member of Czech Gasherbrum I & Gasherbrum II Expedition 2007 led by renowned Zech mountaineer Josef Nazerka
Jiri Danek was lost his life on Hidden Peak.

6 Nepali Nima Nurbu Sherpa died on 20th July 2007
He was the member of Korean Dynamic Busan K2 & Broad Peak Expedition 2007 led by Hong Bo Seong .
Sherpa Nima fell to his death from bottle neck.
Bottleneck is the place for K2's greatest history of triumph and tragedy. At 8300 meters, the 100-meter narrow couloir is cold and windswept; the hard ice with an incline of 80-90 degrees can create extremely challenging, sustained climbing. Most climbers who died on K2 perished in falls and most on or around the Bottleneck.

Six fatalities occurred during the mountaineering season 2007 in Pakistan.

1 Ms Ulrike Gschwandtner of Austria Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 3rd July 2007 due to heart failure.

2 Mr. Arne Heckele of Germany Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 18th July 2007 being hit by Avalanche.

3 Mr.Ernst Robert Zanner of Germany Member German Amical Alpine G II Expedition Led by Dirk Groeger.
died on 18th July 2007 being hit by Avalanche.

4 Italian ZAVKA STEFANO died on 20th July 2007
He was the member of Italian K2 Expedition 2007 led by Nardi Daniele.
Zavka Stefano was missed when he was descending from summit of K2.

5 Czech Jiri Danek died on 29th July 2007
He was the member of Czech Gasherbrum I & Gasherbrum II Expedition 2007 led by renowned Zech mountaineer Josef Nazerka
Jiri Danek was lost his life on Hidden Peak.

6 Nepali Nima Nurbu Sherpa died on 20th July 2007
He was the member of Korean Dynamic Busan K2 & Broad Peak Expedition 2007 led by Hong Bo Seong .
Sherpa Nima fell to his death from bottle neck.
Bottleneck is the place for K2's greatest history of triumph and tragedy. At 8300 meters, the 100-meter narrow couloir is cold and windswept; the hard ice with an incline of 80-90 degrees can create extremely challenging, sustained climbing. Most climbers who died on K2 perished in falls and most on or around the Bottleneck.

Did you hear anything about Kazem Faridian who in 2007 was the first Iranian to reach the summit of K2? In the Iranian climbing sites I have been reading that he carried an Iranian flag that did not have the emblem of the Islamic Republic. That caused a lot of controversy.

Yes I know very well about Kazem Faridyan,and you can see the flag here,last year he was awarded certificate on his success on K2 in Alpine Club of Pakistan http://www.explorersweb.com/sitemedia/TSthumbs/k2climb/20050726xbp1.jpg

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