Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

Comments

My front windows aren't working right. I hear the gears working when I press the buttons, but the windows won't budge. If it does roll down, just a little, then it stops. Then I can't get it back up. Any suggestions?

I found something that said that over time, the little rubber things that hold the window and raise it, disentegrate over a period of time. And that when you hear the gears working, all you need to do is replace the rubber things, which are 2 kits for $10. I emailed the guy to ask about instructions. He said you pop the door panel off, remove the motor, take the casing apart, replace the rubber mats, and put the motor back in. If this is legit and works, I'll be replacing all 4 windows. He said once one goes, its a good indication that all of them will go. That explains why it was just my driver's window and then all the sudden my front passenger's window did the same thing.

I remember someone telling me that the little parts you speak of are cheap. The real expense is in time to take it all apart and get to the worn parts. A local repair shop wants $200.00 per door to repair. The riveted parts have to be drilled out and that can be tricky. Good luck and let us know the outcome in your vehicle,sobo51us.

This is not a fix but more a addition to the problem. I just bought a 2001 TC but the radio pushbuttons do not lite up as described inthe owners manual. Now I bought a wiring shcematic and see that the std radio has one wire which activates the lights via the light module. BUT I have the alpine version which does not show the same color wire to do so. I would think it would but odes mine activate via the network bus? I dunno..until I pull the radio out and see I guess....The way the manual describes it the buttons will light only when that function is available and unlight the buttons which cannot be selected for a particular mode...sounds complicated...maybe I will but a radio off of eBAy and swap out and see...Thanks!

1990 LINCOLN TC SIGNATURE, HEATER CORE BLEWUP, REPLACED THIS AT AUTO STORE, THEN CAR BEGAN OVERHEATING,CHANGED THERMOSTAT, WATER PUMP, SEVERAL HOSES, FLUSHED RADIATOR, CHANGED FAN CLUTCH, PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS, ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM?MY NEXT MOVE WAS INTENDED TO PUT IN ANEW RADIATOR....I ALSO HAD THE SENSORS CHANGED AND STILL GET A HOT READING BUT ONLY WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION....INITIALLY AFTER 8 MILES ..NOW AFTER ALL THESE CHANGES IT OVERHEATS AFTER 65 MILES....HELP ANYONE

I solved my overheating problem by having the external cooling fins of the radiator cleaned. Years of bugs and junk just clogged up too much of the surface area. Difficult to clean because the transmission cooler and the ac condenser core block access. No problems with overheating since the cleaning which cost $30.00 at the local service station.

There are a series of step in your owners manual that you can follow to remedy all of those issues. I own the same vehicle (actually several of them) I have never had a problem with reseting the oil %. Maybe hold the button longer??

I am writing from Mexico and have an almost new lincoln towncar 1990. I need the front bumper, chrome with gray moulding and I do not know where to find it. It has to be in excellent condition. Thank you for your help. I have photos of the bumper I need, in case is necessary. Eduardo.

I am writing from Mexico and I am new about doing this internet searching. My lincoln towncar car 1990 that I have had since new was crushed and for the last month I have been looking for a good front bumper. It is chrome and has a gray moulding. THank you for your help. Eduardo. My email, edpatino@cob.megared.net.mx

I have an 88 Lincoln Town Car Signature. There is an electrical drain on the battery which will totally drain the battery in a months time. Three mechanics have searched for the drain unsuccessfully. I have replaced the alternator, solenoid, computer control module the ignition control switch, and the ignition control module three times. The system check checks out ok. The dor ajar bell comes on if i hit a bump. but there has been no draw found from the door. Any ideas? Thanks, Earlene

Hi Earlene, My Mom's 1990 town car is doing the same thing. The dealer has put 4 new batteries in since Dec. They say they have never seen anything like it. The last time it would not start they thought it was the radio antenna that was trying to go up and down without a request to do so. They disconnected that and thought that might do it.. no luck, 3 weeks later we are back at the dealer. That is the latest. If you find an answer, I sure would like to hear from you. Thanks Nancy

How do I reset the drivers seat so that it stays where I position it. When I take the key out of the ignition it goes to the full back position! This has worn out the forward/reverse worm gear in the gear box. You cant buy the gear and they want to sell the complete seat frame assembly at 357 bucks. I am handy and rebuilt the gear but the normal person can't do this. I put a switch in the feed wire but there has to be a better way. The procedure using the remote that is in the owners manual doesn't work. The dealer gave me a blank stare.

hi nancy, check the ignition switch to see if its getting hot, thats what mine was doing last time. after all the other repairs we narrowed it down to the ignition switch control module. mine started doing it again, i,m going to have it checked again, if it's it this will be the fourth replacement. Does anyone out there know if there is a problem with these switches. still searching for a solution. Earlene

I have a 95 TC. About a month or so ago, I took off in a hurry after stopping on the side of I-40 and the transmission slipped big time. Took about a month and it finally gave up the ghost. During the month, I notice a whining or turbine type sound that would start for no apparent reason. I could push the O/D button and after a few moments, the noise would go away and I could re-engage Overdrive. Anyway, had a replacement tranny from salvage yard installed and it is doing ok--except--I still get the turbine, whiny, noise at different times, speeds, conditions. The only thing that seemed to be consistent is that it is worse when it is over 87-88 degrees outside. At 95, it gets pretty annoying, about every 5-10 miles, I have to disengage then reengage the OD. The torque convertor was not replaced during the replacement of the tranny. Fluid and filter was changed. New tranny had about 95K on it. I didn't see a problem since I had traded one that had 195 on it and had not had a minutes trouble out of the transmission. Any ideas what it might be? I have checked my cooling system for coolant levels, obstructions in the shroud area, checked to make sure that both fans are working properly. Radiator and transmission cooler fins are not bent at all. I don't have a clue but a Toyota or Nissan are looking good to me right now. :sick:

You got 195k miles out of your Lincoln and "a Toyota or Nissan are looking good to me right now" - give me a break.

How much did you save by not putting in a used torque convertor while it was all apart- $25?

That slip and lurch munched your torque convertor. It pumped little bits of metal through your old transmission, destroying it. Then you re-used the junk convertor which has now likely pumped metal bits into your "new" 95k transmission.

The story about the OD button confirms that diagnosis.

If you are lucky, changing the convertor might save the current tranny.

You have to understand the entire story. I traded a 95 with 195k for this 95 with 81K. Thought I was getting a good deal. After new air suspension, new brakes, new front suspension, tow bill for $270, new tranny, and driving back and forth to Memphis almost every day, I think the other guy got the good deal with my old car. My mechanic told me he was gonna replace the torque convertor but when I picked the car up, I saw the old transmission in the floor and there wasn't a torque converter in it. Do you think if I change the torque converter, the fluid, and the filter, it might be ok? I hope so. I'm a poor boy trying to make a living in the appraisal business and I need a good car with good gas mileage. I've had 2, my Dad has had 5-6, Mom 5-6, my brother 1, and they have all been white. Hopefully I can save this one before it costs me another $600. Thanks for the input.

I'm not doubting you but just out of curiosity, can you explain what is happening when I push the OD button and the noise quits? That has been puzzling me. I'm an old Air Force General Purpose Vehicle Repairman and although I wasn't a cracker jack mechanic, I still like to know how something works and all. Thanks

Think of two fans facing each other: One fan is on and the other is off. The fan that is on moves the air which spins the blade of the fan that is off. A torque convertor works the same way but with fluid.

The OD button locks the convertor preventing slippage.

I think the old convertor was either the cause of the previous failure or a victim of it. Either way, it should have been replaced.

we finally fixed it!!! after a year of problems we finally found the culprit, two wires above the driver side fender that plug in along with other wires had become worn and bare. they were occasionally rubbing against each other and the body of the car. after a year of asking different mechanics, and taking it to shops a young self taught backyard mechanic found it in under an hour. Bless him!!! I hope this helps others. Nancy, if this doesn,t help, my mechanic also stated that the alternater starting to fo bad could also cause the battery to drain without it showing up. When i find out exactly what wires were exposed and causing the problem, Ill sign bach on and give the new info.thanks for all your help! Earlene

I like the way you explain it. I can understand that and it makes perfect sense to me now. I talked with my mechanic this morning and he did replace the torque converter but he did not replace the fluid in it, just the fluid in the transmission and the filter. He suggested trying a flush of the entire system with one of those flushing machines. The cost is $110 plus tax at the only place in town that has one. Do you think it is worth a chance or am I wasting my money?

I had a problem with the battery and left my 1992 Town Car idle for about 8 months. We fixed the battery problem but now the car doesnt drive when you put it in gear. It would seem that the transmission is not putting the car in gear. 1) Is there any chance that this isnt just a case of a totally shot transmission. 2) How much would i have to pay to get a new transmisison? Thanks!

What probably happened is that sitting for that amount of time, your torque convertor drained and caused a few quarts of fluid to burp out the vent or filler tube.Was there a big oil slick under the car?Re-fill the transmission and you should be fine.

I have a 90 Signature series my teprature was running really high I opened the hood to see anti freeze in puddles on top of my engine and was dripping off the inside of my hood. I'm not exactly sure what's wrong or how to fix it any help would be greatly appreaciated

Considering your 302 engine is basically the same as my 66 Ford 289 - recommend you check the temperature sending unit that sits on top of the engine. Maybe it came unscrewed or the seal got old and let coolant pass out under pressure.

Purchased a trashed TC for the demo derby. Ran fine, no issues. Started the car prior to pulling the gas tank, no issue. Pulled the tank reinstalled in the back seat, rewired and relined, now it will not start! When I hook up the battery the interior lights work and I get the bong bong of the key in the ignition, but when I turn the key there is nothing, no sound no nothing at all and the lights no longer work. Any ideas? Thanks!