danssoslow wrote:As far as the euro hinges, two probably wouldn't do, but you could throw in a row of them. Probably cost prohibitive, though.

As far as the wires, here's an idea:It looks as if there is enough room inside of that "lid" to fit any slack you'd need to allow it to lift. You could cut a hole on each side of your enclosure, front and back into the amp space; and mount a pvc pipe "sleeve" into the holes. This way you can get the wires from just behind the rear seats into the enclosed part without any wires showing.

overall design i like but the coloring scheme not a fan of. could it been possible to mount the hinges on the inside of the fold? like how hinges on doors or cabnets are. with them on the outside it looks like a giant Trunk in the trunk with a sub in it. :Pmaybe put some tiny LED's on each corner of the internals of the amp to light it up at night.

i like the idea of running all the wires thru the box with pvc. lol cleaver idea.

Member02 wrote:yes, I'm aware of the glue, for some reason no spray glue worked on this cheapo vinyl... 3M super90, 80, 77, none worked, so I just liquid nailed and stapled, pissed me off to staple it... wanted my best box to be stapleless

Now you know what doesn't work. Wanna know what does, and is a lot less of a pain than liquid nails and staples? Contact cement Cut to fit (check 3 times, cut once), then hit it and the enclosure with contact cement. Let it sit for about 4-5 minutes until it doesn't really feel tacky, and then apply. Just be careful and make some marks on the inside of the vinyl and the box to line them up (2 tips in one!), because you won't have the ability to move it. Pull, stretch it a bit to make it tight, and apply. Voila, you've covered your box, no gorilla snot, no staples, and no effin liquid nail sine waves.

As for euro hinges, why bother? Get yourself a piano hinge and cut a small groove into the top with a table saw all the way down (rabbet it, in other words). Do the same to the top of the enclosure, and when you screw them in, the hinge will hide underneath the vinyl. Be sure to leave just a little play in the vinyl in that area, and make sure that you are careful NOT to cement it to the hinge and ruin it. Cement right up to the hinge space, then attach the hinge so that you don't splooge it. Mark the vinyl, too, so that you know where it's going to hit and keep the the contact cement off that area. When it's down, it will be tight, when you flip it up, the vinyl will flex If you wanna make it look really purdy, you can scuff the hinge and paint it flat black. Cover the top and the amp lid separately, and then the only thing visible is the black hinge piece. You would, of course, cement the vinyl all the way over and into the edges. Last tip -- when painting the hinge, paint one side's pieces of the hinge ridge, then the other. You don't want to gunk it up with paint and have it not hinge. Use masking tape to keep them separated, and flex the hinge a couple of times to make sure it's not sticking once one side is dried.

Stick with a manual hookup for now. Actuators are a tough nut to crack, and you need more time in fabrication. You did okay, just the details need to come through.

Big Mack

Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

"I've got mail!! Yay!!" --Special Ed

Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.

The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

To my fallen brethren, you are NOT forgotten. To the usurpers of freedom, you are NOT forgiven!!

Big Mack wrote:Now you know what doesn't work. Wanna know what does, and is a lot less of a pain than liquid nails and staples? Contact cement Cut to fit (check 3 times, cut once), then hit it and the enclosure with contact cement. Let it sit for about 4-5 minutes until it doesn't really feel tacky, and then apply. Just be careful and make some marks on the inside of the vinyl and the box to line them up (2 tips in one!), because you won't have the ability to move it. Pull, stretch it a bit to make it tight, and apply. Voila, you've covered your box, no gorilla snot, no staples, and no effin liquid nail sine waves.

hehe, I'll try it later AND with a better color...

Big Mack wrote:As for euro hinges, why bother? Get yourself a piano hinge and cut a small groove into the top with a table saw all the way down (rabbet it, in other words). Do the same to the top of the enclosure, and when you screw them in, the hinge will hide underneath the vinyl. Be sure to leave just a little play in the vinyl in that area, and make sure that you are careful NOT to cement it to the hinge and ruin it. Cement right up to the hinge space, then attach the hinge so that you don't splooge it. Mark the vinyl, too, so that you know where it's going to hit and keep the the contact cement off that area. When it's down, it will be tight, when you flip it up, the vinyl will flex If you wanna make it look really purdy, you can scuff the hinge and paint it flat black. Cover the top and the amp lid separately, and then the only thing visible is the black hinge piece. You would, of course, cement the vinyl all the way over and into the edges. Last tip -- when painting the hinge, paint one side's pieces of the hinge ridge, then the other. You don't want to gunk it up with paint and have it not hinge. Use masking tape to keep them separated, and flex the hinge a couple of times to make sure it's not sticking once one side is dried.

Stick with a manual hookup for now. Actuators are a tough nut to crack, and you need more time in fabrication. You did okay, just the details need to come through.

Big Mack

eh, I liked my first box I ever made better as far as vinyl goes.

But I've always been one to try something odd that I've never seen before, even if it comes out fugly.

but I've been thinking, this damn amp really limits where I can place it, too big. the only thing I forgot about till now is a little spacejust deep anough and wide enough to place the amp under the box. However, this would mean lots of fans to rotate air...