Tuesday 29 November 2011 12.43 EST
First published on Tuesday 29 November 2011 12.43 EST

On location: Sitting pretty amid the glitz, glamour and occasional grime of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles, right next to the Kodak Theatre where the Oscars are held. It doesn't get more showbiz than this.

Crowd scene: Tourists, tourists and more tourists – 15,000 of them every day. Then on weekends, celebs turn up: recent world premieres include Rise of the Planet of the Apes and, er, Final Destination 5, while Mickey Rourke and Twilighters Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson are among those who have turned up lately to press their mitts into the cement on the famous forecourt, adding their handprints to those of more than 200 stars. Betty Grable chose to imprint her legs, John Wayne his fist, and Bob Hope his nose, while western legends William S Hart and Roy Rogers used their guns. One has to hope no one has ever been remotely interested in asking Pamela Anderson or Ron Jeremy to contribute.

Back story: The Chinese Theatre itself was built by the showman and entrepreneur Sid Grauman and opened in 1927 with the world premiere of Cecil B DeMille's epic The King of Kings. There are also six other connected theatres – known as the Chinese 6 – decorated in a similar style in the nearby Hollywood & Highland mall. Inside and outside, this is probably the most ornate, extravagant and opulent cinema complex in the world: many of the temple bells, pagodas and stone Heaven Dogs were imported from China in the 20s.

Show business: Skewed towards the mainstream, with a nod to indie fare. Currently showing: Happy Feet 2, Arthur Christmas, Jack and Jill, Tower Heist, The Ides of March and Moneyball.

Parental guidance: This is Hollywood so there are no parents and baby screenings nor children's matinees. The theatre has just been taken over by new management, however, and it has plans to shake things up.

Senior service: Once again, no special treatment for the elder generation, though the new management isn't ruling it out.

Tickets: A standard matinee seat costs $10.75 for the first show and $11.75 for the rest of the day, though on the weekend it's $12.75 after 6pm. This being LA, the theatre also offers VIP seating on Italian leather seats in a separate balcony area for $15. For $20.75 you can plump for special D-Box seats, which "sync with the action of the film".

Camera fodder: A suitably grandiose selection of popcorn, soda, hot dogs, pretzels and ice-cream, as well as M&Ms and Reese's Pieces, Haribo gummie bears, imported chocolates such as Godiva, Lindt, Milke and Kinder, healthy potato chips, smoothies, naked fruit juices, coconut water, and even sandwiches. There are gift shops in the forecourt that carry all kinds of China-related souvenirs, and you can even do your own handprints in cement to take home with you.

Combo deal: A large popcorn and soft drink runs to a pretty reasonable $11 (£7).

Alcohol: Not available to the general punter, but booze can be arranged for special events, and there is a beer and wine lounge on the second floor of the Chinese 6 complex if you're really gasping.

Auditorium: The Chinese theatre itself currently holds 1,162 people and features a 70ft screen, one of the largest in the US. It is notable for the sumptuous paintings on the walls and an enormous, ornate light fixture that takes up most of the ceiling. Of the Chinese 6 theatres, one auditorium seats 459, another 279, and the four remaining cinemas 177 each.

Disabled access: Yes indeed, at both the Grauman's Chinese Theatre and the Chinese 6 theatres.

Events: Once or twice a month the cinema stages a live feed of an opera performance or other concert. Earlier this year saw the "ultimate fan celebration" for Harry Potter acolytes prior to the midnight debut of the final instalment of the long-running fantasy series. Each year the Chinese 6 theatres stage Screamfest LA for bloodythirsty horror fans at Halloween: this year witnessed "10 nights of terror" to celebrate the festival's 10th anniversary.

Toilets: The women's restroom in the main theatre has a beautiful old-style powder room, with individual mirrors and Chinese-style decor. Several other restrooms are sprinkled around the complex.

Staff: Smart young Angelinos wearing black trousers, a white button-down shirt and black bowtie, though the uniform is set for change.

Pros: If you're in Los Angeles, this is an absolute must-see on the Hollywood circuit. Less touristy than the nearby, Over Disney-fied El Capitan and you can actually watch movies there, unlike the Kodak. Compared to prices in the UK, the cost of a ticket and some snacks is perfectly reasonable, and if you just want a look around, there's a regular 20-minute tour seven days a week.

Cons: It can be busy on Saturday nights, and you may have to run the gauntlet of scary Marilyn and Jacko impersonators outside, but really, what's not to love here?

Top tips: Arrive before the lights go down, because for once the cinemas themselves are just as interesting to look at as the action on the big screen.