Grooming Mowers Finish Mowers

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-01 20:47:36 179625kirby337
I operate a JD 1070 and just hitched up my used John Deere -I think the model # 410- rear 3 pt mower to use it for the first time. I has two blades and a gear housing and no belts that I can see. The pto shaft turned and the mower cut for about a half an hour then I accidently backed into a raised dirt pile with the mower running and the pto still turns after that but the blades do not. What should I do to get blades turning again ? There should be something to reset when one runs over an object- It has a gear housing and no belts and pto turns but blades do not. How does one sharpen the two blades ? Thanx-PeterReply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-01 00:00:00 179628&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Peter;
How much of the PTO shaft is still being turned by the tractor. Does the PTO still turn the shaft that goes into the gearbox and the shaft coming out the bottom with the blades doesn't turn? That would mean something has broken, or sheard inside the gearbox, possibly a key sheared internaly. I'm not too familliar with a model 410, mine is a MX 5 Deere and I'm not sure without looking whether mine has a shear pin or a slip clutch. A slip clutch resets it's self after you hit somethnt so it's more likely you have a shear pin somewhere in the drive line before it goes into the gearbox.
So far as sharpening blades, unless they are really beat up it isn't too critical to have the blades real sharp. You have to be carefull sharpening them that you don't disturb the ballance of the rotor, usually the blades are just replaced when they get really beat up.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-02 00:00:00 179634&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
With the PTO off raise the mower, Turn off the tractor. Engage the PTO. Reach under the mower (should put blocks under it just in case lift falls) and try turning a blade being careful not to cut hand.

If the blade turns freely something like Frank has said has sheared or come loose. Could not find a mower by that model number so going from experience only. Not a mower expert but think there may be a belt you are not seeing, there has to be a way to turn both blades and one gear box would surprise me if it was doing both. Now let me ask, when you say two blades you mean two separate blades and not one blade with two cutting edges or as some will call them blades are you? If a rough cut mower that will be the set up and those ends normally are made to pivot in case of striking something real hard like a stump or rock. If that is the mower blade is probably mounted directly to the bottom of the gear box and no belt and hope you have a shear pin that protected it all.

Do you know if a finish mower or rough cut? If rough cut probably has a single wheel in the center rear of the deck, if a finish mower probably has at least two on the rear near the corners and might have two on the front. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-03 00:00:00 179644&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thank you for your responses about my three point mower. It has just one rear wheel on the back of the deck and is about 5 ft in diameter and I belive its a John deere 401 or 410 model. I do not live at my hobby farm but will investigate further this weekend. When I bought the mower used the man explained it should be able to go over rough terrain without damaging the mower possibly and have some sort of re set etc. I will look under mower again but I believe that it does have two seperate blades and a gear box above that then a short shaft then the pto shaft attached to the back of the 3 point. Where would the shear pin be located if I need to replace that ? That's for all your advice I will look over mower this weekend and try out several of your suggestions. I have ten acres about 6 acres to mow and ground uneven in spots. Should I of purchased the rough cut mower or rather a flail mower or a sickle bar mower ? Thanx againn for the advice -Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-04 00:00:00 179651&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Kirby;
If there is a shear pin it most likely will be just ahead of the shaft that goes into the gearbox from the tractor PTO driveline. Sometimes the shearpin can be somewhat hidden by the shield that should be on the driveshaft from the tractor to the gearbox. If you got an owners manual with the mower it will show you where the shearpin is and what grade of bolt to replace it with.
Did you get the right kind of mower? Most likely yes, the rotary design like you have will of the three you talk about be the most trouble free. I haven't had any experience with small flail mowers, they do a nice job. Bigger bigger flail mowers that I have used have a lot more things to wear out. A sickle mower would likely be faster than a rotary because it would have a wider, usually six or seven ft. cut and can be used at a bit higher ground speed. The down side is that they will have more maintenence and will tend to plug a lot if the grass is wet or any derbris, sticks, old hay, manuer, etc. are in the way.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-04 00:00:00 179665&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Totally agree with Hardwood on the mower. The one issue on the rough cut it will throw stuff and larger stuff and further than you think it will. Saw a dented car door one throw a large enough piece of stump to dent a car had to be over 50 feet away.

If you have not check the oil in that gear box. You don't want to run it dry. All I have seen have a plug to remove to fill it and another to check the level. Keep the rear wheel also greased both the axle and the pivot. If you are new to using one you want to keep the engine rpms up to the 540 and use the tractor gears to get the ground speed you want, not the throttle. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-04 00:00:00 179671&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thanx again for the responses on my rough cut mower. Is the shear pin and actual pin or a hardened bolt ? Am I correct that it is between the long pto shaft and the gear box. I believe the pto shaft attaches to the spline on the back of the tractor then goes into the gear box then there is a short shaft after the gear box going into the mower housing . I will look underneath mower deck this weekend and see if there are one or two blades . What weight of gear oil in the gearbox ? gear lube about 80w ? Thanx again - new at hobby farming Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-04 00:00:00 179674&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Any shear "Pin" I've been used to is actually a bolt not a "pin" so to speak. Don't get carried away using a hardened bolt, that is not always called for. An owners manual would do you a bunch of good, they are available thru Deere dealers. A manual would not only tell you what kind of bolt but where it is located and also the gear oil recomendations. I hate to keep guessing about a machine that I'm only mildly familiar with.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-05 00:00:00 179680&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Kirby, if you are new to using this type of cutter do a little looking on youtube. There can be some videos that you will learn what not to do. Also some that will show what to do. At same time some on there posseing as experts are mostly ex. Buy you a few extra on shear pins or more correctly shear bolts. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-05 00:00:00 179685&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thanx guys for all your responses and help- I will try to contact John Deere dealer tomorrow and look at parts schematic of the mower or get a manual to determine if it's a shear bolt or if it has a slip clutch instead and will look more thouroughly at the mower this weekend. I assume the shear bolt is on the pto shaft and I just pound it out with a punch pin then pound the new one in.
What size farms do you guys have and what type of tractors and implements do you run on them ?
I have 10 acres in western Wisconsin that has not been plowed in almost 40 years- used for horse pasture and ground kinda lumpy and thick with quackgrass etc. I have the 5 ft rough cut mower - a 2-14 plow - and a nine tine cultivator for equipment with my 39 hp JD 1070 tractor. What would be the correct order using the implements to tame that ground into use for raising vegetables ? Mow the ground first - the plow it under - then cultivate it ? Thanx- Peter from Wisconsin ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-06 00:00:00 179690&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Kirby;
If you are totally unfammiar with any agricultural activitys you should have someoe from the county extension office or perhaps a neighboring farmer who is an experienced farmer visit your farm to determine why the ground has been only used as horse pasture for 40 years. Perhaps the soil is nor well drained enough to be farmed without tile drainage being installed. Maybe it is too sandy, too rocky, etc, some reason it was only used as pasture.
If the field is determined to actually be farmable the first step this fall is to have the soil tested for nutrients, again your county extension service will help you out there. On another thread here we're discussionf fertilizer spreaders, this is what you will need to do to bring your nutrients into ballance. Then ther is the PH level, that will ber shown on the soil test you have done.The Ph l;evel is corrected with ag lime, again another spreadr operation, but lime is comonly handled by a custom spreader.
I hope I don't scare you out but you're just getting started. Yes, you can mow the field bfore you plow it but you need to do something with what you mow off, it will do nothing but plug up the moldboard plow you plan to use. Most of the time anything growing is best left un mowed to work best with a moldboard plow. If there is quackgrass your best move would be to spray the field with Roundup a good TWO WEEKS before you plan to plow it. The spraying two weeks before plowing gives the Roundup time to completely kill roots and all, killing just the above ground part does no good. Plowing under live quackgrass only makes it spread all the fasrter next spring. Completely killing the quack with roundup BEFORE you plow it is the best souluttin to control.
Frank.
....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-06 00:00:00 179700&nbsp&nbspkirby337
My background for the last 30 plus years has been in landscaping and operating skidsteers lawn tractors etc. The field was not used for row crops becausce it is at the lower part of a long sloping hill the back seven acres dry out but the front 3 acres are marshy. I have rented a skid steer several times now and begun to cut drainage swales across the property to help the rain move across the property and into the drainage culvert at the far end of the field.
I did have a soil test done last year and it registered almost 7% organic matter. There is about 6 inches of nice black humus washed down over the years from the adjoining property on top of a clay base.
I know that I have alot of work ahead of me to convert land to hold water into land that drains but have had some success in cutting in drainage swales across the land and planting crops in raised beds.
Thanx for all your advice and I will look more at rough cut mower this weekend.Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-06 00:00:00 179702&nbsp&nbsphardwood
kirby;
That's good to know. I wasn't sure what your background in growing crops and soil management included. I think you will do fine being you have experience with soils and equipment.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-08 00:00:00 179712&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Kirby, there really is nothing like growing a crop. The enjoyment that brings is great. Helps forget the issues you are facing and will each year.

It sounds like you are wanting to raise a good bit of vegetables, if you are planning on selling them don't over look being certain on market for them and what they may involve. Here peanuts can be a dry or green crop. For a few years raised them for green corp. I made more buying and selling equipment than the crop. LOL Partly as the time was just not there when the green crop demanded it. A dry crop where man power is required is much more flexible for my work schedule.

As to the land, sounds like you have a good ides on the drainage issue you are facing. Totally agree with the suggestions of Hardwood. Depending on what you will be raising you will need a sprayer. For your tractor a 50 gallon might be the largest you are rated for but would not go more than a 100 gallon regardless. For many chemicals about 20 gallons of water per acre is sufficient and if raising different age or different crops you probably will do a lot of small spraying jobs. As to the, round up recommendation you may need to mow it a couple of weeks in advance so you are able to get good coverage on the lower grasses. (no idea what the grass you mention is like)

After dead you may be better off to then burn off the pasture to further help get rid of weed seeds. Depending on how hard that 40 year old pasture is you might find using your moldboard plows slow hard work. Do you know how to set them up? Hardwood would be a pro at that. You will need a disk most likely to follow that work. Your mention on the cultivators leads me to ask are they for leveling the field or laying off rows and plowing the crop? If they have spring shanks probably for leveling the field, if they have solid shanks probably for plowing crops (even if they have springs on them).

I would try to get this ground turned over soon so the residue will have time to rot.

You may find a sub-soiler (single shank) and middle buster are good implements you can find used cheap. At same time many here have sold old implements for scrap. The sub-soiler can be used to break up hard pan but are good at helping open up the soil for drainage with little disturbance on the surface. The middle buster is good to help build beds. As to the beds are you talking ones only wide enough the tractor will straddle them? If so realize how much clearance you are loosing doing so.

In vegetables you will find few chemical options for weed control compared to such as corn or soybeans. Weed control is thus much more an issue.

Oh the best suggestion I have, keep a journal. Break up your field into sections and name them even if A,B,C and record what you planted there that year, what you used in lime or fertilize, when you planted, the rain and the crop results. Also if raising for sale, talk with your accountant and keep spending and income records. Check and see if you need liability insurance.

2011-08-08 00:00:00 179721&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thanx again guys for all your continued advice. As I have said before what I have is 10 acres used for pasture the last 40 years and 3 ft high in weeds . I have a 39 hp tractor and a used rough mower -2-14 plow and nine shank cultivator. I am learning how to use the 3-point and have hithched up the rough mower first to get familar using that.
I was out at the farm yesterday and discovered my John Deere rough mower is a 403 and not a 410. I did find the likely location of the shear pin . They yoke after the pto shaft on the mower but before the gear housing has a spot where the two sides line up and a shear pin must go to keep the gear shaft on the gear house spinning. Good to find that I will order several from John Deere - looks like a round hole and about 3-4 inches long.
Underneath there is what looks like a large inverted round dish to which two large seperate blades are bolted onto. The nus holding each blade to the round dish are quite rusty and not much room to the top of the deck to swing a wrench so hoping I can brace mower up and get underneath deck with rotary grinder to sharpen blades whiach appear to be quite dull. I realize replacing blades better but they appear to be quite rusted on.
Felt good to locate where the shear bolt goes. Hopefully will be parts and continue to mow a little before I tackle the next implement - the two bottom plow.
Thanx alot for walking me thru things - getting a better feel for the land each time-Thanx-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-08 00:00:00 179723&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Peter;
That's good you found the location of the shear bolt, they're usually pretty easy to replace. Some but not all mowers have a round hole in the deck that lines up with the heads of the pivot bolts that hold the blades to the disc. That hole is meant to put a socket thru to hold the head of the bolts while tighten or loosening them.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

First those blades don't carry a sharp edge. Look at the new ones and then compare to your current before you buy.

It is good to use an oil to loosen the rust before you try to change the blades and a large impact wrench is nice also. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-10 00:00:00 179754&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thanx again guys for your continued guidance. I recieved three shear bolts with nuts from the local JD dealer today. They look to be about 1/4-20 bolts - about 2 inches long with nuts - they are somewhat yellow in color- Does that signify that they are hardened bolts ? Wondering if I can pick up some more bolts from local hdwe store so won't have to go to JD each time not sure if they're hardened or not.
Question - when I hammer the shear bolts into place should the head of the bolt face the gearbox and the nut face the tractor/pto shaft or the other way around ?
Am I correct that the mower blades do not have a beveled edge which I could sharpen on the mower with a grinder ? Blades look dull and rather diffucult to get off the mower. I will look for access holes in the top of the mower deck though also-Thanx for that advice.
Hope to install the shear bolt this weekend and try out the mower again - Then hopefully switch over to the two bottom plow next.
I'm trying to develop a system for muscling on these 3-point implements - using a long pipe to lift them into the 3-point or storing implements up on pallets etc. ANy suggestions to making putting on and taking off 3-point implements easier ? Thanx again-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-10 00:00:00 179757&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
You don't want to leave sharp tree stumps and therefore rough cut blades are a large flat side to help shatter the stump.

As to hooking up: you will find there are quick hitches of different designs out there. Some like them and others don't. A lot of it will depend on your equipment.

But some basic points on hooking and unhooking.
1)level flat ground
2)be sure the lift arms have some drop left in them before you unhook. If not the implement will be too low for lining up to re-hook.
3)hook the 3rd arm last and un-hook it first
4)be sure to release the stabilizers so the lift arms are free to swing on or off the implement pins. Then be sure to reinstall before driving off
5)grease the pto shaft and find a rubber sleeve to put on it to keep dirt off when not being used so easy to slip pto shaft back on.
6)keep fingers in pockets at all times so they don't get pinched. Okay little hard to do, but making point to pay attention to both hands while hooking and unhooking or you will get them pinched or even lost
7)never ever hook or unhook pto shaft when tractor is running. nor grease the shaft, not play with the blades on cutter.
8) yes a decent pry pole can be handy. Should not need a long one.
9) block up implements as need to before dropping for easy re-hook.
10) have a person who loves you on tractor to help back up and drive up as may be needed while you hooking. Seriously this can be very very deadly. People have been crushed between tractor and implement doing this.

I find it best if one pin is ahead of the other to hook the furthermost one first. Then if need be pull tractor up a little to hook the nearest one. Also learn sometimes when you hook one pine you can use the lift to help get the other in line.

2011-08-10 00:00:00 179759&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Kirby;
Ken pretty well covered the hitching and unhitching of three point implements. I do have a quick coupler for the three point and like it, mine is a Land pride brnd. Check the Land Pride website I'm sure they will have pictures and descriptions. Your hitch probably is a category one.
The direction you insert the shear bolt doesn't make any differenc. You shouldn't have to pound it in, it should push in with your finger. The head of the bolt will have markings on it to tell you what the hardness is. There is a websitwe somewhere that has the headbolt markings, other wise take a new one to a NAPA or any good hardware store and they can match it.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-15 00:00:00 179844&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Got to spend a half a day working on the farm yesterday. I installed the shear bolt just as you said and it stayed in fine and was able to mow some more.
There is a square plate on the top of the mower deck which pivots out of the way so one can get to the bolt on top of the mower blade. Thanx.
ONe of you said that you had a quick hitch option added to your tractors 3 point ? How does that work and does it make it easier to hitch up 3-point implements >
I took off the 3 point mower and hitched up the 2-14 plow . More on that later.
The problem that I'm having now with my 1997 JD 1070 tractor and that it has diffuculty starting. When I turn the key it makes a whirring or grinding sound and I have to do that 8 or 10 times until it finally turns over. I t has a new battery this spring . Does that mean the starter or starter drive needs replacing ? I took off the side access panel so I can see where the starter/starter drive is located ? Should I replace just the starter or the starter and the starter drive ? I can see the two long bolts holding the starter onto the starter drive and the larger bolts holding the starter drive onto the tractor. My nearest JD ag dealer is 30 miles away and I usually have them ship me parts instead of going there - wondering if they will access me a core charge if I don't bring in the old starter-starter /drive.
NIce to get the mower running again and the plow hitched up . Just need to get the tractor starting again every time. Thanx again -Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-16 00:00:00 179849&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Kirby, I don't use a quick hitch myself but helped installed the set they goes on your lift arms only. My thoughts are for some things they work very well. Not sure all do but some move the weight back a few inches and might make front end f tractor light. Could also affect the pto shaft length. The ones that are one piece might have issue with some implements as some will vary with distance between the lift arms but more so the 3 pth arm location. Probably not much an issue with the newer main label brands. But know there are those who they work for well.

As to the starter noise, first is your starter mounting bolts tight? if the noise is grinding gears there probably is an issue with the Bendix on the starter. The gear that engages the flywheel. You don't want to damage the teeth on the flywheel so needs attention quickly. I would remove the starter and try working the Bendix by hand. Does it move easy by hand and do you see any sign of damage. (If not clean and lube it.) With starter firmly retained you can test the Bendix by powering the starter. You should see the Benix gear move back to engage the flywheel when the starter spins. If not probably issue with the Bendix only. However a slow spinning starter could be the issue. Could be due to weak battery, poor connections. worn starter. You may find starter or Bendix at auto parts store such as NAPA and probably have a shop who rebuilds and repairs them locally. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-16 00:00:00 179868&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Several more questions about my starter -bendix issue- I haven't changed any starters in almost 20 years now- Is the small round housing atop the starter the bendix and the body below that it's attached to the starter ? My roomate works at NAPA - I've given him serial number off of bendix to see if Napa would have part or should I go thru JD dealer ? It's a Yanmar 39 hp diesel tractor with a YM starter ? Any method of taking off the old bendix/starter and installing new starter ? LIke I said I put new battery is this spring and upon turning the key the starter spins but doesn't engage until after about five trys. Trying to narrow down the lack of starting possibilites. Thanx again guys-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-17 00:00:00 179871&nbsp&nbsphardwood
Kirby;
I'd pull the starter off and take it to a motor/generator/starter shop, most every county seat size town has one. They can test it to see for sure what is wrong rather than you guessing on non returnable electric parts.
I have no experience taking a starter off of a Yannmar, some are easy and others seem to have a hidden bolt that tries your patience to get it out and back in, good luck on that part.
I have a Land Pride brand category one three point quick coupler on my Deere 4310. All the things Ken said about the PTO shaft needing to be the right length etc. you need to check if you use one. They do work great if you park the machine on a level surface when you unhitch it from the tractor, otherwise it can be about as bad as not having one.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-17 00:00:00 179873&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Kirby, without seeing your starter making a guess here. If you have a small round thing on top of the starter where the wires connect to it probably is the starter solenoid. That is the heavy duty relay switch the current needed for the start runs through. Often if they are bad you get a clicking sound in them. Now it could be a electric magnet to push the bendix to the fly wheel when the starter gets to spinning.

Frank's suggestion on taking the complete starter with what ever is mounted on top off together and take to starter shop is a very good idea for you. DO DISCONNECT the negative or ground wire from the battery before you do put a wrench on any wire on the starter and play it safe, label the wires for re-installation. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-17 00:00:00 179881&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Thanx guys for the advice on my starting problems. My roomate works for NAPA and with the serial #'s I gave him said starter and bendix would be around $300.00 and not in stock take about 1-2 weeks to get. NAPA starter-bendix as good as OEM ? IT's a Yanmar starter on tractor. I called local JD ag dealer and he wants $800 for starter and bendix and $350 for just bendix. That seems quite high. I will attempt to remove starter and drive this weekend . I see two long bolts holding the bendix on top of starter and two larger bolts on starter itself bolting it to tractor . Hopefully not another hidden bolt.
Several times during the summer when the tractor just made a clicking sound when I turned the key I just re tightened the battery cables to the battery and tractor started right up. NOw battery cables are tight again and battery secured down and when I turn the key it winds and doesn't start until after turning the key five times or so. I probably should bring a battery charger to the farm and put on battery to make sure it's fully charged and eliminate that possiblity.
WIth a car I know there are several electrical elements to be tested when vehicle doesn't start - battery-starter-generator-voltage regulator etc. NOt sure what all electrically there is on a tractor that might cause it not to start? But the clicking or whirring sound leads me to think it's the starter or bendix.
Either way I will try to take starter off this weekend and get into starter rebuild shop and test bendiz manually when it's off the tractor. Thanx again guys-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-18 00:00:00 179886&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Humor me, before you remove the starter at least hook up a second battery with jumper cables and see what happens. If it works first time and each time suspect you have poor battery cable connections and your 5 or so turn of the key is really helping burn connections to make connection. If no jumper cables at least remove all battery cables connections both positive and ground on both ends and and clean very carefully all contact points and reinstall. You might have fully charged battery but not a path for that current to reach the starter.

If that does not help, take the starter in for checking. As to NAPA compared to OEM, suppose to be meeting their standards. Sometimes you will find replacements are better as issues have been found and sometimes I know they are not as good. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-18 00:00:00 179904&nbsp&nbspkirby337
That's a good suggestion about using another battery with jumper cables other than tractors battery to start tractor- I will try and get my car close enough to tractor to try to use it's battery and jumper cables when I go out there this weekend. Battery cables may be suspect since several times tractor would not start at all this summer and when I tightened down battery cable it started right up . BUt in that situation when I turned the key it just made one click and starter did not spin at all and when cable tightened it started right up. Now when I turn the key it spins or whirrs for awhile but doesn't start until mulltiple trys so might be the starter or low battery and not a loose cable but I will try another battery.
JD wants $800 or oem starter-Napa wants $300 for their starter - I found a electric company here in town who will rebuild the starter for around $200. So unless I get the tractor started this weekend I hope to remove starter and bring it in to them to get rebuilt then reinstall starter. Looks like four bolts to remove starter - two on top on solenoid or bendix and two larger bolts on starter itself - then one battery cable - one white wire electrical connection on top.
Getting closer now - thanx again for the advice-PEter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-19 00:00:00 179913&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Do take the solenoid in with the start and don't assume it is not the issue.

2011-08-22 00:00:00 179970&nbsp&nbspkirby337
I went out to the farm yesterday with some tools and jumper cables and a battery charger to try to get the old 1070 started. I put the battery charger on the tractor battery and set it for 2 amp charge and left it on for about an hour the meter on the battery charger read 2 am discharge the whole time.
I then tried to start the tractor and this time got no response at all. Just an ocassional click as I turned the key but no starter grinding and trying to start. So I think it might be one of the battery cables maybe. ANyway I have to get current to the starter to see if that's bad or if it's the battery cables or something else.
I removed the positive and negative battery cables and picked up a new negative battery cable which is bolted to the bottom of the battery comportable for its ground.
I removed the positive cable also and on the end of the positive cable where it connects to the starter then is a small round white wire crimped under that end of the battery cable and it leads to a short splice with a spade type bit in it which runs behind the starter itself.
Next weekend I will install new negative battery cable and clean up and re install existing positive battery cable and see if I can get it to turn over.
No sound when I turn the key now. Hopefully it's one of the battery cables or what else could it be ? Thanx guys-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-23 00:00:00 180006&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Did you try the jumper cables with your vehicle battery also?
Do you mean it showed "discharge" the whole time it was connected (the charger) as you wrote? But a 2 amp charge rate for an hour on any size battery is not much if needing to be charged. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-08-26 00:00:00 180063&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Becasuce I parked the tractor in the pole barn front end first I could reach it with my battery cables they are not long enough to reach the battery the way it is parked at present.
I have an old Sears battery charger that I hooked up to battery which I bought this spring - I set charged for 12 volt option and the needle went to and stayed on 2 amp the hour I had it plugged in. I will look closer at settings on battery charger this weekend to see what it reads when I plug it in.
I have a new negative battery cable. It's about 12 inches long and runs just from negative battery top post to be bolted into bottom of battery compartment for to be grounded. It's quite rusty so I will spray lube it up first and try to remove old negative battery terminal first and put in new negative terminal and try to reattached to bottom of battery area on front of tractor.
I cleaned up the positive battery cable and will re install that also.
LIke I said previously when I turned the key on the tractor last weekend I got no sound at all - just an occasional single click - where other weekends the starter was turning over and winding out but not starting the tractor,.
Hopefully by installing new battery cables this weekend I can get some activity out of the tractor unless you have other suggestions. Thanx-Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-14 00:00:00 180369&nbsp&nbspkirby337
I finally had the tractor hauled into the local implement dealer where they are putting on new rebuilt starter and looking over the tractor this week.
I have several questions about preparing the land used only for pasture for many years.
Besides the 39 hp Jd 1070 tractor I am considering eventually getting another piece of equipment to cut drainage swales into the land to help it drain . Would you suggest I look into purchasing a tractor/backhoe or a loader to add to my current tractor or a skidsteer with a bucket which I could add a backhoe to later possibly. Like I said I need to cut long lengths of drainage ditch about 4 ft wide and about a foot deep to keep water moving across land. I have operated skidsteer before and a little backhoe not sure if the backhoe on the tractor/backhoe depending on the size would have the digging capacity of a skidsteer or not. Tractor/backhoe bigger to store in pole barn though and more moving parts to break down versus skidsteer with backhoe attachment.
Thanx - Peter - Hope to begin plowing land this fall again and cut in some drainage swales. Thanx ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-14 00:00:00 180371&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Sorry it was more than bad cable.

As to the drainage let me make a suggestion, post that as new thread and give it good title for what you are asking. In it tell what equipment you have already tractor and all attachments.

But will give some thoughts now. You might be best off to hire those cut in with a dozier. If you have moldboard plows you might can use it to cut those in. A good rear blade that will set for angle and rotate will also do the job. Now will you be able to either of those with your tractor not sure it has the horses or weight but you can with light passes and more of them. A lot depends on the dirt, time table and amount needed. They also make a 3 pth pto powered cutter for simple drainage ditches. They are often used to clean out road ditches and in fields.

What you can use to cut in ditches is a rather long list depending on what you are working in and need in ditches. You might be able to use a scoop on the 3pth or a box blade depending on the dirt and roots and such. If dirt if level and you have blade/tractor combo to do so is a good option. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

KT is getting you on the right track with the draunage issue. I don't want to prertend to be an expert on the issue, but after 40 some years of farming and dealing with drainage issues I'll kick in my thoughts.
You will be time and money ahead to hire an experienced farm drainage contractor. I've cut small short drainage channels with a box blade and loader combination, that works about the best of anything I've tried. The little light duty rear blades for a compact tractor don't have enough weight to cut anything other that pre loosed soil. I had one and sold it, the box blade has it beat six ways from breakfast.
Cutting the drainage channels will get rid of the standing surface water but that's only a small percent of solving the total problem. Even with the surface drainage you still need subsurface drainage tile to make the soil productive.
Let me explain why. Plant roots are a living thing that need air to survive. When the soil is waterlogged there is no air in the soil so the plants (Your Crop) do poorly or just plain die from lack of oxygen. The magic of drainage tile is lowering the water table to below where the roots need oxyger to live. There will still be plenty of water in the soil to grow the crop, drain tile do not remove more water than the crop needs, that is an old myth that is simply not true.
Frank. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-15 00:00:00 180380&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Kirby, reading Hardwood reply brought another thought to me and you probably have sufficient tractor for that, a single shank subsoiler. Not the kind sold today by Northern Tool of Tractor Supply but a old true farm one. They will drop down about 18" and depending on the real need may be all you need. Don't mean a single run with one but a pattern of them. IF they will solve your need you will have a good idea while using them (I have any way) for it they pull real easy they are probably not needed. If you can feel it cracking the subsoil they might solve you total need. If you have a real hard pan you may have to make more than one pass lowering the lift for each.

Ask around you might find an old subsoiler really thrown to the side and get if for next to nothing. Then today scrap metal's price much of that old iron has been melted.

If it does not have a shear bolt or trip of some kind on it be sure you don't run fast and a seat belt is not bad. You have no idea whats under the ground. Sudden stops do happen with out shear bolts or trips and even then sudden almost stops happen.
....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-15 00:00:00 180383&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
BEFORE YOU DIG OR USE SUBSOILER...are you 100% sure there are no buried lines across that land? If any doubt there probably is a free service there to mark any with utility company. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-15 00:00:00 180402&nbsp&nbspkirby337
Good advice as usual guys on my drainage issues. I hope to get my tractor back by this weekend with rebuilt starter etc and start working the land again.
I'm working on a 2 acre plot with uneven ground and 3 ft standing quackgrass weeds etc. Before the tractor conked out I put on my 2-14 plow and ripped up the ground some and that worked pretty well. I hope to put 2-14 plow back on and rip up ground then use 9 tine cultivator to smooth it out.
I will look for a used subsoiler. What is the typical lenght or depth of the single tine on a subsoiler ? I was some quack diggers listed in our local ag paper so I assume they are similar a deep digging single shank implement . I assume you use the 3 point to continually lower depth of implement. I will check for buried utilities also . Thanx - good advice.
After plowing and cultivating land and dirt should be pretty soft by then would you purchase a used back blade or used box blade to cut in drainage channels ? Used box blades harder to come by and more expensive but look more heavy duty .Thanx again guys - Hope to work over some of the soil before it gets cold up here . Thanx- Peter from Wisconsin ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-20 00:00:00 180475&nbsp&nbspkirby337
I'm still waiting for the local implement dealer to put in rebuilt starter on my tractor so I can do some fall plowing and look for used box blade or subsoiler. I see in the local ag paper a guy has a JD quack digger - 10 ft - what exactly is that ?
I might go to a few equipment auctions this fall to possibly look at a used loader.
The loader I would look at would be used about 70% for moving piles - dirt -rock etc and about 30% for digging trenchs for drainage swales and concrete footings . Would you recommend that I look for a skidsteer with backhoe attachment or a loader/backhoe such as JD 201/301 etc.
Most of my experience has been operating Bobcat 743 skidsteer so am most familar with that but would like to get loader with backhoe attachment . Would loader/backhoe have same digging muscle as Bobcat 743 if it is about 50 hp backhoe and how easy to operate would a loader/backhoe be in comparison to a skidsteer ? I do like the quick operation of a skidsteer and could get a backhoe attachment with a skidsteer to fill my trenching needs . Looks like a tractor/backhoe might be more maintenace and upkeep than a skidsteer with backhoe attachment. Thanx again -Peter ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo

john deere 3 point mower

2011-09-20 00:00:00 180476&nbsp&nbspkthompson | 12 Pix
Peter, a box blade does not rotate nor tilt only by use of leveling arm on tractor. It is good for moving dirt as it holds it in for dragging it. A blade (depending the blade) can be rotated and tilted such as on a road plow and will cut a ditch rolling the dirt away from it. It takes weight for traction, hp to pull and heavy blade to do that.

As to your question on the skid steer compared to loader/backhoe I have run those only enough to say have and not proficient with either to the point to answer your questions.

The quack digger, 10 ft, no idea what that implement is but don't think you have the tractor for a 10 foot wide anything.

If possible find you a farmer around you there who is willing to look at what you have or county agent or someone who knows drainage that will give you some guidance. In today's construction world hiring it done might be the least costly option for you and then it would be right. However I rather do it myself it possible. Feels good. ....Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo