A fair amount of body work needs to be done as seen earlier in the thread. All the sway bar, sub-frame, and cross-member mounts will be reinforced. Bought a good amount of steel in various shapes and sizes. Removed all brake, fuel lines from underside, and fuel tank. Once the floor pan for the cabin is finished ill go ahead and pull the rear sub frame and rear suspension. New nickle copper brake lines going though the cabin, ill prob end up making a pipe chase for the fuel lines underneath. Spare tire/trunk area: ill remove the sheet metal and flush mount a fuel cell. The cell will be a little higher up than the factory gas tank. I've measured that area and I think it will sit higher than the rear crash bar with the trunk being flat. I might opt to encapsulate the bottom with steel just to pass safety inspection. That clears up the rear quiet a bit; Plenty of room for a diffuser in the future if i want. Most of the solid mounts are now pressed into the rear subframe. Still need to do the diff cushion and brace bushings, whiteline stuff I have. Over all: picking up the pace and now have access to a two post lift which obviously makes things ALOT easier.

In other news I just received my Haltech Platinum sport 1000 with long lead harness including fuse/relay box!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Will be hooking it up with the factory ignition for now, harness with be terminated on Dutch connectors. Eventually will go all out and get the display dash, and COP but very excited to just get it hooked up and mapped for now. Pics to come

Before you start welding up the swaybar mounts drive it without swaybars and see how you like it.When I picked up my Cressida [for a DD, not for a racecar] I pulled it all apart and ended up leaving the swaybars out.When I drove it I found it felt better IMO.I haven't had a chance to try this on the Alltrac yet, so I can't say specifically about it, but it's worth a shot.

I actually tested this out with my st165. removed the rear links and swung it out of the way for a while. It was funny you could just drift the car in a straight line, the rear end was very loose. Once Reconnecting it the rear was much more planted. In my truck I tried removing the front, I noticed that it feels stiffer now with it reconnected, and doesn't tend to wonder as much driving in a straight line. It really doesn't cut in quiet as well with it connected. On this car I will be using a white line 3 way adjustable bar. Haven't tested it yet but i believe i could swing it away completely. Just finished downloading the Haltech Software and its really amazing, just looking at the sample files for the data logging and a 2jz tune its crazy the flexibility.

as far as the sway bar mounts them self go, looks to be pretty simple. the floor pan rails but into them anyway and i planed to redo them... you know since i have that felony hole under the clutch pedal lol

Quick update, Car is mostly in storage for now.. I Started test fitting the new 3 row rad I got from towels. Super tight fit, thinking I have to modify the rad support to tilt it forward so I can still utilize pull fans. Probably end up doing a quick disconnect rad support. My friend gave me a mitsimoto rad from his mr2, have been considering using it for my heat exchanger on the w2a IC rather than the big bar and plate one I currently have (since it's a micro channel coil probably a little more efficient+lighter weight.) IF I do end up using that I will try to sandwhich it against my rad for packagaing and airflow. Having the throttle body coupling modified to go from a rubber peice to a full alloy hard pipe supplied by xiiimotorsports with a v-band style clamp. Purchased a gen4 fuel rail, the injector spacing and bolt spacing is the same. I have found the part number to a ID1000 injector set that will work. All that is left is to figure out the mounting hardware, fittings, and hoses, fuel cell. Project is on hold at the moment until I can buy my own house. Pretty excited to get my own work space where I can really focus on the car, my current situation has been very very difficult to get any extend amount of time in the shop.

Got HKS adjustable cam gears in the mail to pair with the cams .Started Messing aroudn with the anti-lag hardware. Removed the banjo bolt(s) from the exhaust manifold. found that the hole in the banjo bolt does not align with the pipe. Some air will flow though the pipe once the bolt is loose. Banjo bolt would need to be re-drilled to be "common" with the pipe going to the dump valve.

Removed the diaphram cover from the dump valve, removed the stiff spring inside. gave the valve a few good smashes with a hammer with some oil, and now the valve is free. Not welded shut or anything, just slightly seized.

Now that the pipes, banjo bolts and valve is "unlocked" i need to get a new softer spring for the dump valve, drill out the lower flange. Ill probably end up replacing the exhaust anti-lag pipes with larger ones for more air flow, as the dump valve is around 38 mm and each pipe is only 3mm or so.

Updates, not much really... car was at the fabricator for a while and we decided the chassis is really too far gone to continue welding it... unless someone had ALOT of time with a welder its toast.

Cutting the cage out, pulling every part that is usable off from the car. Plan is to buy rust free shell from the south, and bolt all this stuff up to it. Maybe when the engine is out of the car Ill put the forged pistons, rods cams etc etc in.

sadly that's the end of this particular Chassis. With the demise of photo bucket this thread has no pictures and they are lost.