Comments: Thanks for adding this. Seems like the consensus on the "Lemon Peel" rating is coming in at 5.10c. Two spots with definite 5.10 moves plus lots of fun 5.9 with great rests throughout the climb. Good times for sure!

Comments: Glad you enjoyed the Lemon Peel, Gary. We bolted it so well so to avoid ledge falls but may end up moving two of them up a bit. Besides that and some stainless clips for the anchor, I think the route is set to go. So, I'm new to MP, and I didn't know the protocol or best way to post routes to get a consensus on a rating. Although I now feel pretty safe with 5.10c, if you would like to move comments to right spot, please do so.

My climbing class and I recently noticed some newer routes established (with bolts and anchors) near and around the "Under Overhang Land ,5.12b). Looked like five new routes, and we climbed one that seemed like harder 5.11. Wondering if anyone wanted to share beta on these new routes...an area of the wall that was craving development! Glad someone is getting after it!

Comments: Glad you had a chance to climb the Wind Tower. An obscure classic for sure! First time we ventured over there in the '90s, it took a boat and, as I recall, a harrowing crossing! But the drought has paved the way to more climbing across the river in recent years. Hope you had a chance to check the 'Ten Mile Crag' too. That camp is ideal for both. It's funny, I remember it being farther away from the main buttress but must have just been tower struck:) Stoked you got up the thing… may have been ... more >>

Comments: Thanks for the feedback on the rating. The whips I referred to were on the second crux as I attempted to drill the 5th bolt. It was a quick learning curve though and nothing like natural consequence for getting your shit in line. My buddy John was a real motivator back then, and he placed the last 4 bolts to the top on stances alone. He'd be sure to yank that green bolt if he ever saw it there...but has bigger fish to fry now and lives in Anchorage, AK. Still does a lot of exploratory climbing ... more >>

Comments: That route you refer to is the "Bearded Lunch Lady", named after a real life character that used to flip burgers at the infamous "Lunch Box". She was a real charmer and made an impression on us after we had burgers the night of the FA in the early '00s. I remembered it had some really fun moves down low and on the arete but was a bit contrived as it merged with a route we had put up just left - "The "Walking Enigma".. that one is a real toe banger too!! Both of those routes are on the topos I s... more >>

Comments: I think Rex Walters did the Honeycomb a while back, and I'd say it goes 5.8 or so. I remembered it was harder then it looked, but I'll see if I can get his take...? Stunning position though!…that arch and welded stone underneath is awesome!

Comments: Glad you have been able to enjoy the Dolo! "Arm and Hammer" was just like its name states on the FA- swinging leads back and forth with hand-drills, some hooks and the occasional stance... taking a few whips too. Did it with my John Kelly in 1997 or so. Been a while since I climbed it but remember the upper crux being the airiest! Noticed a bolt (w/ green hanger) was added up top too a few years back…? What's your thought on the rating?

Comments: We called this 'cross bedding' classic - "Air Time"- 5.8-** FA in 1995. Took a 30'er on the first ascent placing my first bold ever on lead... and so such natural consequences then lead to a lifelong obsession;-)

Comments: This one is well worth the river crossing and the steep/loose approach. A real gem with one of the better Wingate finger cracks in the canyon! A unique stem box (protected by 4" Rawls :) to a dead vertical, splitter and locker finger crack surrounded by foot holds.

Comments: Yeah, John. This is the Red Rocks Simulator Wall, home to Arm and Hammer and the Rizala's Crack. Someone added a random bolt near the top "Arm and Hammer"...noticed it a couple of years back. Reminds me of our hand-drilling, first ascent forays every time I lead it. It's still "yikes" all the way to the anchor.

Comments: Some friends and I developed over 20 routes in this zone in the mid-'90s to early aughts. I'll upload our topos once I find them, but we called it the Pump House Crag and it's way cool, filled with spiller finger cracks and fun, Red Rocks style, face climbs. If you live the area, you have to check it out, and if you're on your way to the Creek, it's worth a stop. Great camping too!

Comments: I took part in establishing two routes on this chunk. The crack is a sweet finger splitter that cruxes at 5.10+. Gear - 0.25 -1.5 inches & 2 bolts. Its name is "Sunday Strole". To the climber's left, we later established "Sinco De Mayo"-150", 12 bolt/gear lead requiring 1-2" protection; it’s also 5.10 and a classic sporty trad climb to the same anchor point.

Comments: I've taken part in some of the development of this area. The routes are still in the process of being cleaned, but have real potential for being a good addition to Durango climbing selection. The best routes have turned out on the lower angled (south end of the wall) and constitute some great moderate sport climbing ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.12b. All the routes are rigged with chains.The land owner is on to us though, and he has no intention of allowing anyone to climb there. Our litigio... more >>