So, i was wondering when it becomes necessary to upgrade to an after market axle.
American Muscle.com says once you go over 500 rwhp you should consider it.

is it a mater of HP or the size wheels you have, or both? for example, currently i have a set of 18x10 inch wide wheels with Nitto NT05R drag radials i wanted to try out next spring. my car is only lightly moded 2014 and definitely has less than 400 rwhp, but im wondering if i should consider upgrading the axle due to the bigger wheel (this would be for track use)?

At what point do C clip eliminators become necessary and would these work on a stock axle assembly?

Remain calm, you'll be fine. AM just wants to sell you a bunch of stuff you don't need right now. You can go to 1000 horse on welded axle tubes alone. It's been done many times and it all depends on use. You might want a brace too by that point, though, if you were that serious.

Drag radials are tough on the driveline, if you have a manual car. You can keep the stock stuff alive a lot longer on a bias slick in that application. Having used both, the impact on the driveline from a clutch drop launch is definitely way easier with a slick and the 60s are better, too.

C clip eliminators are outdated tech and just create opportunities for leaks. With disc brakes you have built in axle retention anyway.

What does a "bias" slick mean? are you refering to the size ratio from the front to the rear tires?
im kinda stuck using the radials on my manual as i have to drive to the drag strip which is about an hour from my house. what is it about the radials that are hard on the driveline?

What does a "bias" slick mean? are you refering to the size ratio from the front to the rear tires?
im kinda stuck using the radials on my manual as i have to drive to the drag strip which is about an hour from my house. what is it about the radials that are hard on the driveline?

Bias ply, not radial. Different size from front to back is referred to as staggered.

Bias slick means bias ply. Keep using radials and one day, you might not get to drive back from the track. Trust me, the difference on these manual cars when using a radial as opposed to a bias ply slick tire is night and day, in hooking up and in driveline stress.

I drive an hour back and forth to the track each track day on non-DOT, full race slicks. I don't even air them up, it's totally fine. I'm just too lazy to do tire changes at the track.

Bias slick means bias ply. Keep using radials and one day, you might not get to drive back from the track. Trust me, the difference on these manual cars when using a radial as opposed to a bias ply slick tire is night and day, in hooking up and in driveline stress.

I drive an hour back and forth to the track each track day on non-DOT, full race slicks. I don't even air them up, it's totally fine. I'm just too lazy to do tire changes at the track.

This is good to know, i didnt think you could drive on slicks, figured they would puncture or something. now i need to find a pair of slicks that will fit on a 18x10

This is good to know, i didnt think you could drive on slicks, figured they would puncture or something. now i need to find a pair of slicks that will fit on a 18x10

I know it's illegal to run slicks on the street in Wisconsin. Tires must be DOT approved. Not sure the laws where you live, but even if they technically make it there and back, you could get a ticket if caught.