We all scream for mac and cheese

As I write this review, there’s a perpetual downpour outside and a chill in the air. In other words, it’s the perfect day to enjoy a heaping helping of the ultimate comfort food.

So I perused the stack of books piled high on my desk until I discovered Ellen Brown’s latest creation, “Mac & Cheese: 80 Classic and Creative Versions of the Ultimate Comfort Food.”

What better way to escape a dreary day than to flip through page after page of macaroni-and-cheese recipes? It wasn’t long before I realized that a trip to the grocery store was in order. I was hooked, and so was my tummy.

The majority of Brown’s recipes are adapted from versions served at high-end restaurants, which means few of the dishes include processed cheese foods such as Velveeta or American cheeses.

Instead, what you will find are recipes featuring the yumminess of mozzarella, provolone, Muenster, fontina, Gruyere and mascarpone, just to name a few.

And if you’re unsure whether you will enjoy those cheeses, the book includes a listing that describes each by its texture; the country from which it derives; whether it’s made from cow’s, goat’s or sheep’s milk; and the flavor each cheese emits.

There’s also a list featuring pasta shapes, names and appropriate cooking times; instructions on how to make the perfect roux; and suggestions for crunchy toppings used to finish off each dish.

If you’re a macaroni-and-cheese connoisseur, you will be well-served throughout the fall and winter months with this 192-page softbound book.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain pasta, run it under cold water and return to pot.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in small skillet over medium-low heat. Add 2 tablespoons of onion and all of the poblano and the jalapeno chile. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Set aside.

Heat ¼ cup of the remaining oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add remaining onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until onion softens. Add thyme, bay leaf and wine, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, for 5-7 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds. Add cream, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf. Add cheese to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until cheese melts before making another addition. Puree sauce until smooth.

While sauce simmers, heat remaining oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add ham, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes, or until the ham is crispy.

Add the sauce, sauteed vegetables, ham and red pepper flakes to the pasta, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until the pasta is hot and coated with the sauce. Serve immediately, sprinkling each serving with breadcrumbs.

Note: The sauce can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring to a simmer over low heat. Do not cook pasta until just before serving.

Bring pot of salted water to boil. Cook pasta until it’s just beginning to soften to al dente stage. Drain pasta, run under cold water and return to pot.

Combine chili powder, paprika, cumin, oregano and red pepper flakes in small bowl. Mix well and set aside.

Heat butter in saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly for 1 minute, or until the mixture turns slightly beige, is bubbly and appears to have grown in volume.

Increase heat to medium and slowly whisk in the steeped and strained milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce heat to low and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes.

Reserve half of the jalapeno Jack cheese. Add the remaining cheeses to the sauce by ½-cup measures, stirring until cheese melts before making another addition. Stir in 2/3 of the seasoning mixture and all of the nutmeg.

Pour sauce over pasta, add onion mixture and stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer pasta to prepared pan.

Combine breadcrumbs, parsley, remaining garlic and remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the remaining jalapeno Jack cheese over top of dish and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.

Bake casserole 20-30 minutes or until cheese sauce is bubbly and crumbs on top are deep brown.

Allow to sit 5 minutes, then serve, garnishing each serving with lime wedges and a few tortilla chips.