Everything but the girl: all-inclusive hotels

Governors' Il Moran Camp

The most luxurious of the eight unfenced camps in the Governors'
collection, Il Moran lies in the Masai Mara Game Reserve, a good
place to see elephant, zebra and gazelle as well as big cats, and
to witness the great wildebeest migration.

But though you are in the heart of the bush, this is a far cry
from camping. Each of the 10 substantial tents, set amid fig trees
and overlooking the River Mara, is comfortably furnished,
ostensibly in the style of a Mfangano tribal hut, with a kingsize
bed, chairs and desk all fashioned from rough-hewn olive-wood.
There's no electricity (and no mobile-phone signal), but dim
lighting is supplied by gas and paraffin lamps. And each tent has
an expansive ensuite bathroom, complete with flush WC, bidet,
freestanding claw-footed bath, shower and plentiful hot
water.

Your day starts early with tea, followed by the first of three
daily game drives, after which there's a hearty bush breakfast. And
then maybe a walking safari, accompanied by a Masai scout
experienced in tracking giraffe, buffalo, hyena, zebra or even
lion. Come nightfall, sundowners and canapés are served before a
candle-lit dinner (with wine) in the open-sided dining tent, or
down by the river, where elephant and hippo may come to bathe. Only
spirits and Champagne are charged for separately.

Governors' Il Moran Camp (00 254 20 273 4000-5; www.governorscamp.com). Rates range from US$371
to US$863 per person depending on season (which include transfers
to and from Musiara airstrip but not the US$40-a-day park
fees).

By Claire Wrathall: this article featured in the August 2008
issue of Condé Nast Traveller magazine