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Introduction

Most surfaces have obstacles that interrupt the run of tiles and make tiling more complicated. Many of the problems that obstacles present can be dealt with by carefully planning your tile layout. Remove fixtures if possible, and tile with just the supply pipes in place. Choose those techniques that are most suitable for your own project. Often there is more than one way of tackling some tasks, depending on which tools you have, or the circumstances you face.

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Alternatives for Finishing an External Corner

There are various ways to finish tiling an external corner. In some cases, such as around a window reveal, a neater finish may be achieved by making mitered corners. For these you will need to use an electric tile cutter with a platform that can be angled. Overlapping edges are a simple solution, but may be unattractive if the tile edges are unglazed. Corner profile strips are a neat and protective solution.

Mitered Corner Tiles (Image 1)
Press the angled edges neatly together at the corner. Leave a gap along the joint for grouting.

Overlapping (Image 2)
Tile to the corner seam so that the tiles on one surface butt up over those on the other. Some ceramic tiles have one glazed edge.

Using a Strip (Image 3)
An L-shaped strip can be used to cover unglazed tile edges. Fix it in place with a sealant.

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Tiling Around a Pipe

Remove the fixture, if possible. Hold a tile to one side of the pipe and mark the top and bottom edges of the pipe's diameter on the tile. Even if the fixture has not been removed, use this technique to measure where the hole will fall (Image 1).

Hold the tile below the pipe, in line with its column of full tiles, and mark on it the left and right edges of the pipe's diameter (Image 2).

Use a try square to join the marks, forming a square where the tile will fit over the pipe. Join opposite corners to find the center (Image 3).

Adjust a tile hole cutter to the size setting you need (Image 4).

Attach the hole cutter to a drill, set its point on the mark in the center of the square guide lines, and remove a circle of tile (Image 5).

Apply tile adhesive directly to the tile, and put the tile in position over the pipe. If it has not been possible to remove the fixture, score and snap the tile along a line through the hole, so that you can fit the tile around the pipe (Image 6).

Step 8

Other Techniques

There are many different types of tiles and designs available, and, depending on your choice, you may need to adapt the basic application techniques or use alternative methods. Some designs will use regular square tiles in irregular grid arrangements, while other types of tiles, such as inset tiles, border tiles, and mosaic tiles each require a specific approach. Depending on the shape and size of the tiles you select, you may also need to improvise when applying spacers.

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Creating a Border

If your border tiles are narrower than the main tiles, spacers may not sit flat. You will need to stand them on edge or cut them into a T-shape. A border may run between rows of full tiles or across the top (Image 1).

Apply border tiles adjacent to the last row of main tiles, or at the required height within the main tiles. Leave any cuts until last (Image 2).

Use an electric cutter to make 45-degree cuts on two tiles. Press them neatly together using spacers on edge to maintain the mitered gap (Image 3). Mitering works well where border tiles meet at right angles.