For the time being, the truck sits for two weeks at a clip and its slow starting. Turns over no problem, WTS and everything is fine but I'll crank it for maybe 5-10 seconds, let it run through a WTS cycle again, hold it to the floor and crank for another 5-10 seconds and it fires right up. Whats the deal? I used to go through one wts cycle, hit the key and it was running instantly. Once it fires up throttle response is good and will hold any RPM I choose for how ever long I choose. I'll let it sit and idle for maybe 10 minutes and pull it in to the garage to work on it. When i go to shut it down its not nearly as abrubt as it used to be. When I shut it down before, it would squeal the belt for a split second and lope the whole truck. Now it just shuts down like a gas motor. Is there any reason for that? Even after I run it, shut it down, and go to restart it (all within a minute) it still cranks like it does cold. Whats the story on this thing? lol

On a side note, Im making progress with it! I have both front fenders on it and lined up, fresh tailgate. Still on track to paint in May

Glow plugs, and mine shuts down when I turn the key off like it supposed to, not lope at all, maybe it fixxed it self on that one, but if you let it run a while then cut it off then crank again it should start better, 1 minute is not nearly long enough to warm anything up, especially an older diesel

I let it run for a good 10 minutes then shut it down and went to re-start it and it cranks for a while. Do the glow plugs stay on after the WTS cycle? What I meant by lope when I shut it down is that you know how a cammed gas motor will rock the whole vehicle while its running? It used to shut of so abrubptly that it would rock the body for a second.

I thought they came off right after it fired up and that was the end of it but I guess not. Wouldn't matting the go pedal give the signal (electronically) to fire the injectors and dump fuel though? So lets say it is the glow plugs, would my first course of action be to check the relay? How would I go about checking it? ohms/resistence?

Test for power at both ends, use the negative terminal as your ground, and what he said on gpr run time, but sounds like plugs to me, and mine doesn't rock the body on shut down, I only see that on huge trucks, like a semi or similar

The signal from the CPS tells the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors. It knows based on the low RPM that you're in start mode, and programs the fuel accordingly.

The glow plugs stay on to accelerate warming of the cylinders. The run time is determined by the EOT - engine oil temp sensor.

Glow plug relay test - voltmeter red probe on each of the two big terminals, one at a time, black probe on a ground (battery neg). Key off. One should read 12.5-ish volts; that's the "always on" terminal. The other should read zero. Turn the key to RUN and test again. The "always on" terminal should actually read less, prob. 11-11.5V (that's the load of the glow plugs pulling the voltage down). The other terminal should read pretty close to the always-on terminal; the _difference_ is the important thing. The differenece (voltage _drop_) must be no more than 0.3V. If there's no voltage at the other big terminal, the relay may have failed, or there may be a switching problem with the PCM or the power to the coil circuit. If there is voltage, but the difference is more than 0.3V, that indicates the PCM is turning it on properly, but the relay has failed. It's making contact and providing _some_ voltage to the glow plugs, but not enough.

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