Winterfest: Cooking in the ColdPatty Sheridan, General Manager of Syracuse Suds Factory, shares some wisdom and war stories from years of battling the elements while making chili, chowder and more, in the outdoor cook-offs at CNY Winterfest.

Since the dawn of Syracuse Winterfest, hardy Central New York chefs have battled the elements to keep the chili hot and the chowder steaming during the signature cook-off contests.

Despite a widespread belief that Winterfest typically brings a mid-February thaw, that's not how the cooks seem to remember it.

"One year, I went out with my equipment to set up, at 7 a.m., and it was beautiful out," said Patty Sheridan, the general manager at Syracuse Suds Factory and an 18-year veteran of the Winterfest's chili and chowder cook-offs. "As I was heading over, it started to rain. I thought, 'Where'd this come from?' Then about two hours later, it was a blizzard. You couldn't see the buildings around you.

Food-based events have always been central to Winterfest, says longtime organizer Bill Cooper. The Chili Cook-Off was the pioneer -- it debuted in 1985 -- although in recent years its popularity has been surpassed by the Wing Walk on the event's last day.

Popularity aside, there is one major difference between the chili and chowder cook-offs and every other Winterfest food event: The chili and chowder must be made from scratch, outdoors, in Hanover Square.

For events like the Culinary Cruise and the Wing Walk, along with the new-this-year Sandwich Stroll, patrons travel from venue to venue, sampling the food cooked in hot kitchens and served in warm, cozy dining areas.

Drink events, like the Martini and Cosmopolitan mix-offs, are also indoors -- though the Bloody Mary Mix-Off used to be outside.

It's no surprise that more restaurants seem to be lining up for the indoor food crawls than the cook-offs. (The deadline to enter the cook-offs, which take place on the fest's second weekend, is Friday.)

But to veteran chili-makers and chowderheads, outdoor midwinter cooking is a challenge they look forward to.

"I remember standing there over the chowder with David (Hoyne) one year, and I looked at him, and he looked at me, and we both had a full inch of snow accumulating on our heads," said Damien Brownlow, executive chef at Kitty Hoynes Irish Pub & Restaurant, winner of the Chowder Cook-Off last year. "But it's fun. It's Winterfest."

Brownlow learned early on that it's different cooking outdoors in the cold. For the chowder, he can't make his roux -- the oil and flour combo that serves as a thickener -- too far ahead because it will cool down in the frigid temperatures.

"The real challenge is controlling the timing," he said. "If you're not keeping your heat up, things can freeze."

Sheridan and Brownlow agree they'd prefer to cook in a blizzard than in subzero temperatures.

"You might get some snowflakes in the chili pot," Sheridan said. "But in the real cold, remember everything is from scratch. You're chopping onions. Your fingers get cold. Your hands get cold. You have be careful not to cut your fingers off."

Michelle Gabel / The Post-StandardPatty Sheridan, right, general manager at Syracuse Suds Factory, has been working the Syracuse Winterfest chili and chowder cook-offs for 18 years. At left is Suds server Deana Mulvaney.

Sheridan has probably tended the pots at more cook-offs than any other Winterfest cook, Cooper said. He and Sheridan both recall the occasion of the worst cook-off weather.

It coincided with a year in which Winterfest had a New Orleans Mardi Gras theme, and organizers added a gumbo cook-off to the events.

"It was minus 13 (degrees)," Sheridan said. "Everybody dropped out but us. (Syracuse) Suds was the only one there. My rice froze, it was so cold."

That's a Winterfest war story from a veteran. And that fits, because telling stories about the cook-offs is part of the attraction, Cooper said.

"The judges are looking at the quality and taste," Cooper said. "If you can accomplish that, in the weather, then you get the bragging rights. That's what it's about."

Winterfest food events

Here's a look at the food and drink events at the 2011 Syracuse Winterfest:

Culinary Cruise

When and where: Noon to 4 p.m. Saturday at participating restaurants. Winners announced about 5 p.m.

How it works: "Cruisers" buy a $5 ticket at the PODS unit in Hanover Square or at participating restaurants. Walk, drive or take the free Winterfest shuttle (see note at end of story) to the restaurants, sample appetizers, entrees and desserts, then vote for your favorites. Your ticket covers samples at all locations.

When and where: Noon to 4 p.m. Saturday at participating downtown-area restaurants.

How it works: Bartenders compete to make the best drink in each category. Each mix-off requires a $5 ticket, purchased in advance at a participating bar or in Hanover Square on the day of the event. Walk or take the Winterfest shuttle to each bar. Ticket holders will sample the drinks and vote for their favorites in taste and presentation.

How it works: The pioneering "signature" Winterfest food event. Participating restaurants and organizations cook the chili from scratch, outdoors. There is judging by a panel of celebrities and, at 2:30 p.m., a free public tasting in which people can vote for their favorites for the People's Choice Award.

When and where: Noon to 4 p.m. Feb. 26 at participating downtown restaurants.

How it works: This is a new event, patterned after the Culinary Cruise. "Strollers" buy $5 tickets in advance at participating restaurants or in Hanover Square on the event day. Each place offers a sandwich sample. Walk, drive or take the Winterfest shuttle and vote for your favorites. (Your ticket covers samples at all locations.)

How it works: Participating restaurants and organizations cook chowders from scratch, outdoors. There is judging by a panel of celebrities and, at 2:30 p.m., a free public tasting in which people can vote for their favorites for the People's Choice Award.

Participants: The deadline to enter is Friday. Last year's winner in both the Judges and People Choice was Kitty Hoynes Irish Pub & Restaurant.

Bloody Mary Mix-Off

When and where: Noon to 4 p.m. Feb. 27 at participating bars.

How it works: Tickets are $5, purchased at a participating bar in advance or in Hanover Square on the day of the event. Competitors are judged on taste and presentation. Walk or take the shuttle. (Your ticket covers samples at all locations.)

How it works: Tickets are $8 in advance at participating restaurants through 3 p.m. Feb. 26, or $10 in Hanover Square on the day of the event. Take the Winterfest shuttle to competing restaurants to sample and vote for your favorite wings. (Your ticket covers samples at all locations.)