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finally finished my homemade e-mag conversion...

it uses a small ram with a manifold that attaches a very small 3-way solenoid valve to the bottom of it. it only draws a very small amount of power, so it works easily off of a 9v batt.a morlock controls the timing.

I find it to be easier on the gun than the centerflag grip, and no giant battery like the e-mag.but basically I just wanted to make my own.

the standard valve with a lvl 10 bolt maxes out at 16 bps without any drop off. the micro solenoid valve can cycle up to 45 times a sec., so if I had a retro valve, I know the damn thing would shoot 25bps with my modified halo. but hey 16 is plenty quick. I usually play with a revvy and keep it at 11bps.

the trigger is a modified pro-blade. it uses opposing magnets instead of a return spring, the magnet in the grip is adjustable to adjust the amount of return tesnion on the trigger. it also has a front stop, back stop, and an actuation point adjustment screw. trigger bounce was eliminated by using a different microswitch than the one that is provided with the morlock.

the next thing might be a simple intelli-feed link to the revvy. I would actualy like to be able to get the reliabilty of no chopping WITHOUT the lvl 10 bolt. the lvl 10 lowers the efficiency of the gun, the rate of fire alittle bit. it will actually top out at 18 bps with a regular bolt.

more pics...

first off, thanks alot guys. I've really wanted to make an e-mag since long before they started makin' them at agd. this particular design can generate 11 lbs of force and barely consumes any wattage. it all fits in a benchmark double trigger frame. I think it shows that e-mag design can be taken further than wjat the stock design is, and still be feasible to produce.

this gun is actually fairly old. I did the paintjob and the design about 5 years ago, so it's a little rough around the edges.

it of course has a Doc nickel barrel adapter so it uses cocker barrels.

this shows the on/off switch and the indicator light of the morlock. it the light can be seen through a small polycarbonate "window". this protects it, without losing any light intensity.

this shows an old idea I had. a small aluminum shroud
that covers the back of the valve. it's probably the only thing I've ever made that was just for "looks". I copied the AGD logo and reduced it. then transfered it to blank decal paper. it is then put on before the clearcoat.

the total cost wasn't too bad. I already had the cocker parts and the rest was about $200

the ULE body would be the way to go. I'm not much for eyes, but that would be a way to get my efficiency back. get rid of the lvl 10, put the eyes on and find a retro valve for sale. that would also lighten things up quite a bit.

this old gun could definitely use a make-over. I definitely don't recommend painting gun bodies. I did that one quite a while ago with acrylate urethane, but it's just plain never going to last or deal with paintfill very well.

Elec, its really nice to see your work. that small bit of info you gave out on your "worr-blade" was a big help in looking what to get for the job. possible to list what ram, mani, and 3 way you ordered for the job?

Truly Magnificent Job! Score 10 out of 10 there!
Cosmeticly very clean and tidy, plus it looks so much lighter. And the best Of all is that it can be fitted on older classics! You pump new blood into a fine line of markers.

Got to be one of the most constructive project in all of AO's Workshop that I have ever seen.

wow. that's all I gotta say. congratulations. I hope to check this out at a big event sometime. It's inspiring me to get outside to my workshop and get some stuff done. After I'm done reading the forums, of course. --dave

I have better qualities, I am funnier, sexier, and my a$$ is like 'woh' (2/15/2004 11:51 pm)

* individuality has joined #automags anyone around right now? hello?
* individuality has left #automags
(3/23/2004, 5:45 am)

I totally understand how that thing works, but I'm wondering where he got the parts. Radio shack? Also, what's a marlock board and are they hard to understand and work with? If there a site on the internet about doing electronics like that?

did same thing over a year ago.. except made the grip frame from scratch, integrated the rail into it (grip is moved .5" forward from original position and is .75" overall shorter in height). has E mode and direct mechanical override option. Optical trigger pickip with almost zero hysteresis. Integrated LPR as foregrip with internal plumming. Integrated snatch grip (not milled yet in pic).
Verified cycle rate of 20CPS.

hey thanks guys. I wish you all could put some paint through it. it's a fun gun.

it's definitely not the "ideal" mag set-up, but it really does shoot better than it looks, and that's what I like about it. it's fun to see people stare at it on the field and then finally say, "what the hell is that?" or "what's with the cocker reg on the front?"

sounds very cool nicad! have any finished pics? what solenoid valve did you end up using? single or double acting cylinder?

what mag valve are you using?

a friend of mine suggested integrating the lpr as a foregrip, but I like the gas thru grip, it give a large supply of 800 psi air. that's just me.

it looks like the difference is in the trigger, with the bottom having the magnet operate the solenoid, that triggers the pneumatics within the grip while the top has the trigger actually operating the pneumatics, much like a cocker trigger (i think)

yeah that's the same gun. the original design was a simple step in the direction I wanted to go. it was a mechanical 3-way behind the trigger, that sent air to a double acting ram that was being used as a single acting ram. the trigger was very short, but it was not as smooth as I wanted. if you held the trigger back, it held the sear down and the on/off pin up. not what I really wanted, even though it shot fast.

now the trigger is alot different. the opposing magnets replace the need for a trigger return spring (or spring return valve as in the case of the first mod) the magnet in the grip frame is adjutable, so you can make it super light, super stiff, or anywhere in between. it still has forward stop and back stop trigger travel adjustability, along with a switch activation adjustment. in other words, it can feel however you want it to.

it definitely is easier to shoot it fast now. it has "walkability" . I can't shoot it like that, but friends I have all said it walks easy. I've been running it at 12bps with a revy/empire circuit board.

I really can't comment about the reliablilty of the new set-up yet. the old pneumatic mod was pretty damn reliable.

I am very interested in this concept! Especially a purely mechanical version.. What small ram/manifold did you use? I'd like to homebrew myslef something up. Any additional info is appreciated, and unlike SP, I wont steal your design and try to patent it.

well the pneumatic mod, almost eliminates it. it makes it really hard to chuff. mainly because the trigger pull is short. but it is still posibble.

but the e-mag mod makes it basically impossible to chuff. the morlock is set to a specific time and it energizes and then deenergizes the solenoid for the same exact amounts of time every cycle. so the valve is able to recharge as soon as possible every time. I've noticed that it will do 16 bps with no drop off when the solenoid valve is enegized for 30 msec. at about 20 msec you can squeeze 18 bps out of it, but I keep it at 30 msec of energize time. I then run it at 12 bps with the revy, so there really is no chance off drop off or chuf.

there is a sear travel adjustment that reduces its travel to the minimum required to release the bolt. this speeds up the recharge of the dump chamber a bit, and minumizes air consumption by the sear actuator cylinder. so it's stroke is only about 3/16" and it runs off about 80 psi ith a LvlX bolt and about 65psi with a standard bolt.