I sold my sporty and finally getting to spend some money on my 95 aspencade. Went to horrible freight and got the 1500 lb jack[black] and a few odds and ends. Came home and experimented with the jack at different heights and chocking up the front and rear tires along with straps for the side. I had my ME880 metzlers arrive and decided to change out the bearings along with the tires. Tried splitting the 3/4 bolt to drive the first bearing out...no go for me. Back to horrible freight and got the five piece slide hammer puller. Still wasn't a cakewalk but finally got one out. Knocking the other one out from the backside was easy. All this after a local dealer mounted the front for me. I got the front on and I'm going to wait until I finish up with the rear to install the dyna beads. I want to make sure they are both dry before putting the beads in.
Ok, so I'm on the rear tire and follow the DIY procedure putting the bike on the center stand. Didn't think I would ever loosen the axle bolt. I rested the extension on a jack stand and stood on the breaker bar. Got every thing loose, tire on floor but no way in hell could I get the tire out from under the bike. Put the tire back up with the axle installed, nutted and every needed to to take it off the center stand.Got out the jack and proceeded to jack it up where I normally place the arms and noticed the front tire wasn't coming up but figured I could get higher than being on the center stand. Dropped the tire again and still had problems getting it out. Here's the dumb part...jacked it higher and walked around the bike and could see daylight between the back arm of the jack and the bike.. I know...not too bright... I guess the weight of the left bag and a few pieces of plastic make a considerable difference in the jacking points. Anyway I have the tire out...a can and a half of brake cleaner later and the driven flange and final drive are clean. Waiting on my molly paste from ebay..during the mean time going to run the tire over to the stealer to get it changed. I lowered the bike down to the lowest locking bar on the jack...strapped and a couple jack stands for good measure. My ? is this..why can't I get the tire under the bike...even at a setting higher than the center stand would be??
Don't want to jack it up any higher...

I sold my sporty and finally getting to spend some money on my 95 aspencade. Went to horrible freight and got the 1500 lb jack[black] and a few odds and ends. Came home and experimented with the jack at different heights and chocking up the front and rear tires along with straps for the side. I had my ME880 metzlers arrive and decided to change out the bearings along with the tires. Tried splitting the 3/4 bolt to drive the first bearing out...no go for me. Back to horrible freight and got the five piece slide hammer puller. Still wasn't a cakewalk but finally got one out. Knocking the other one out from the backside was easy. All this after a local dealer mounted the front for me. I got the front on and I'm going to wait until I finish up with the rear to install the dyna beads. I want to make sure they are both dry before putting the beads in.
Ok, so I'm on the rear tire and follow the DIY procedure putting the bike on the center stand. Didn't think I would ever loosen the axle bolt. I rested the extension on a jack stand and stood on the breaker bar. Got every thing loose, tire on floor but no way in hell could I get the tire out from under the bike. Put the tire back up with the axle installed, nutted and every needed to to take it off the center stand.Got out the jack and proceeded to jack it up where I normally place the arms and noticed the front tire wasn't coming up but figured I could get higher than being on the center stand. Dropped the tire again and still had problems getting it out. Here's the dumb part...jacked it higher and walked around the bike and could see daylight between the back arm of the jack and the bike.. I know...not too bright... I guess the weight of the left bag and a few pieces of plastic make a considerable difference in the jacking points. Anyway I have the tire out...a can and a half of brake cleaner later and the driven flange and final drive are clean. Waiting on my molly paste from ebay..during the mean time going to run the tire over to the stealer to get it changed. I lowered the bike down to the lowest locking bar on the jack...strapped and a couple jack stands for good measure. My ? is this..why can't I get the tire under the bike...even at a setting higher than the center stand would be??
Don't want to jack it up any higher...

You can...it's just a giant pain. The higher you jack the bike, the easier it is. Try putting a piece of cardboard on the floor under it, then you can drop the wheel onto the cardboard, and slide it out sideways.

Oh...make sure you let the air out of the tire before trying to take it out - mine will NOT come out with air in the tire, the tire is simply too wide to fit between the swingarm and rear drive.

dingdong wrote:I would pull the rear drive anyway. The splines on both ends of the shaft need Moly.

I agree - anytime I pull the rear wheel, I grease the splines on the shaft as well. Remove the bolts holding the rear drive to the swingarm, pull the drive backward, disengage the wheel from the drive. The drive will have enough lateral movement to allow the tire to easily slide out - but I'd still recommend letting the air out of the tire first.

Update...thanks for all of the replys...got the rear tire mounted yesterday and came home to tackle the final drive and drive shaft. Got it out and sure enough, along with the driven flange and final drive it all needs greasing. Anxiously waiting for my moly to arrive. Don't know if the grease gets used up fast or it hadn't been done in awhile. And yes I keep my laptop in the garage with DIY arcticles from GoldwingDocs....otherwise I'd be clueless.
Thanks again...all

bitterclinger00 wrote:Update...thanks for all of the replys...got the rear tire mounted yesterday and came home to tackle the final drive and drive shaft. Got it out and sure enough, along with the driven flange and final drive it all needs greasing. Anxiously waiting for my moly to arrive. Don't know if the grease gets used up fast or it hadn't been done in awhile. And yes I keep my laptop in the garage with DIY arcticles from GoldwingDocs....otherwise I'd be clueless.
Thanks again...all

The Moly grease that gets used on the splines is a bit of a different beast. Meshing gears continually move grease around, pushing it between the teeth and lubricating them as the grease gets squished between them.

On splines where the Moly is used, the grease is actually just a carrier. The splines don't continually mesh with one another, and for the most part they barely move in relation to one another. So there is no movement to continually move lubricating grease between them. This is why using regular grease on these splines will destroy them: the grease gets squished out (and slung out from centrifugal force), there is nothing left to lubricate the splines, and they start to wear against one another.

Moly "grease" is spread on the splines. After assembly, it gets squished/slung out just like regular grease. Unlike regular grease however, the molybdenum disulfide that it contains forms a very strong bond with the metal, and remains after the grease carrier has been lost. This layer of "moly" is what actually does the lubrication, not the grease.

This is why it is important to fully clean the splines with a good solvent when replacing the grease. If contaminated grease remains on the splines, the fresh moly applied will not be able to bond with the metal, and lubrication can be affected.

Oh...and wear gloves when applying Moly grease, and make sure you wash any skin that comes into contact with it. It can be toxic, and is a known carcinogen when its dust is inhaled or ingested.

Well heres an update...Late getting everything on..it was an adventure...all thats left is the dyna beads for the front tire, and the side panels...I bought mama a new used gas stove and on the way home the radiator fractured on the car..of course it comes first....about $135 at advanced auto parts and a day to put it in and I'm near ready to ride..damn rain probability is up for next two days. Oh well..there is always something to tweak Thanks again for all the help....

In my opinion, the easiest way to get the rear tire out is to just unbolt the rear panel and support bar and roll it out the back. I've tried the method described in the diy articles twice now and I just can't see how it can come out the side. There just is not room while on the center stand. Remove rear panel, takes less than 5 minutes. Piece of cake.

On the subject of moly grease, the dealer is not really very expensive and they always have it. No shipping, no waiting.

In my opinion, the easiest way to get the rear tire out is to just unbolt the rear panel and support bar and roll it out the back. I've tried the method described in the diy articles twice now and I just can't see how it can come out the side. There just is not room while on the center stand. Remove rear panel, takes less than 5 minutes. Piece of cake.

On the subject of moly grease, the dealer is not really very expensive and they always have it. No shipping, no waiting.

...unless, like me, you have a trailer hitch. Then your only option is to lift the bike up and drop the tire out the bottom.

I've seen threads about 1800's where they simply lay the bike on the right side crash bars, seems to me once you get the axle nut loosened on a 1500 that method would work, too. You would still probably need to pull the left saddlebag though. Once the bike is on its side you would probably have to flip the center stand down and put a brick or something under it so the bottom of the tire is lifted clear of the ground...

I have a Harbor Freight lift which works very well at home, but if ever forced to change a tire on a trip I would have to try laying the 1500 on it's side... I, too, have trailer hitch.

I just put a new tire on the back of my '94 - using the how-to instructions from this site. The only thing I did different was to remove the rear fender, cross brace, and trailer hitch. With those out of the way the wheel and tire can come out and go back in from the rear. I used the center stand to get the weight off the rear tire.

Alan,
Not sure it is the right post to ask, but what tire are you running on the rear with your sidecar... Got an Avon trike for the front but still undecided for the rear! Would have to be a car tire. Did try a YOKOHAMA 195/60 - 16 but it does fit...

I went with the Austone tire - 175R16. I actually bought a Kumho PA31 195/60R16 based on recommendations from several people, but once I got it I took some measurements and could not see how a 195 tire could fit in a 185 swing arm. Some people insisted that it would fit - just deflate it and wrap it in a plastic bag, then shove it in - with some work it'll go right in there! I figured it was easier to go with the Austone - it's had tons of good reviews - the only thing that hurt me was the price!

Thanks,
Are you currently running the Austone? Reason I ask, is because it is "taller" than the normal tire. Does it pose a problem especially with the sidecar? Like when taking off or cruising in overdrive? It would be quite expensive to have it shipped to Canada so before I go for it, I am looking for reassurance that it will work...
As you, I have a 195/60R16 Yokohama for sale... I could put it through but it did rubbed the right side of the swing rm, like 0 clearance!. They will fit the 1800 so I hope someone will go for it.

I just installed the Austone, and have only taken it on a short test ride so far - about 25 miles. I don't feel any difference in the ride, acceleration seems to be the same, and performance feels the same pretty much everywhere. The only issue I have is if I hit a pothole or bump in the road the tire will scrape on the inner fender - I'm going to try adding some air to the rear suspension to see if that helps. If the air doesn't help it's been reported that you can move the inner fender out a bit to eliminate any scraping.

I just did this job last weekend to replace a rear tire. The method I used was to ride the bike onto 2 pieces of 2X6" wood under each wheel, so the bike was already up 3" off the ground (might need help if your legs are really short). Then I put it on the centre stand with a piece of 3 and 3/4" thick wood block under the centre stand. Then when I removed the 2 pieces of 2X6 under the front wheel, the bike rotated forward a bit, raising the back end of the bike even up higher. You need to be careful here, because the bike can easily roll forward off the centre stand if tilted too far forward. I secured the centre stand to the base of the oil filter with a small strap to prevent that. I would say that getting the centre stand on something 4" thick or more will give you enough clearance to remove and replace a rear wheel. I also let the air out of the tire to help it in and out. For installing the rear wheel, I put an automotive floor jack under the middle of the tire to be able to jack it up easily to be able to get the axle in. It's not so bad if you work through this methodically and take it easy. It's pretty hard to bully anything into place with these Goldwings because of the shear size of these beasts.

I had previously tried the method of lifting the whole rear end of the bike up. Worked fine until I tried to get it back into place again. It refused to go, because one of the crash bars under the saddle bags was slightly bent, and the holes would just not line up to be able to put the bolts in. If you have any suspicion that the bike has ever rested on its side (maybe some scratch marks on the bottom side of the bars), I wouldn't even bother trying this. It's easier to take the left bag off and work it that way. Maybe next time I will take the rear panel off under the licence plate and try to slide the wheel out the back. That sounds like a pretty good option as well.