Do you know that the former royal family of Singapore existed until the late nineties? They had lived at Istana Kampong Glam (also known as Sultan’s Palace) for generations until the Istana was drawn for redevelopment into the Malay Heritage Centre in 1999.

The story goes all the way back to the 19th century.

The 18th ruler of Johor, Sultan Hussein Mua’zzam Shah ibni Mahmud Shah Alam (1776-1835), built the original Istana Kampong Glam at Beach Road in 1819 after he signed a treaty with Sir Stamford Raffles, ceding Singapore to the British as a trading post. His eldest son, Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah (died 1877), hired Irish architect George Drumgoole Colemanl (1795-1844) to build a new palace, designed with a mixture of English and Malay elements, to replace the old one in 1840.

Sultan Ali gave the Istana to his son Tengku Alam Shah (1846-1891), while spending the last few years of his life in Melaka (Malacca). By then, the power of the Johor Sultan was diminishing, overshadowed by the Temenggong. Temenggong was the local chieftain who acted as a vassal to the sultan, providing military support and sometimes exerting huge influence in the state affairs.

In a bid to claim the sovereignty of Johor, Raja Temenggong Tun Daeng Ibrahim (died 1862) entered negotiations with Sultan Ali in 1855 with the support of the British. The outcome was that Sultan Ali retained the rights of his Kesang territories at Muar and received a monthly allowance, but had to formally give up his sultanship and rule of Johor. He would still be recognised as the Sultan of Singapore though.

When Sultan Ali died in 1877, his Kesang territories went into a succession dispute. The lands were ceded through an electorate to Daeng Ibrahim’s son Abu Bakar (1833-1895), instead of Tengku Alam, Sultan Ali’s son. Tengku Alam tried to launch a civil war in 1879, known as Jementah Civil War, in an attempt to recover his properties and sultanship, but the uprising was easily quashed by the British. In 1885, the Temenggong family officially took over the rule of Johor when Abu Bakar proclaimed himself as the sultan. He became the 21st Sultan of Johor and was later widely regarded as the father of modern Johor.

A bitter Tengku Alam returned to Istana Kampong Glam of Singapore, where he died in 1891 at an age of only 46. His supporters still regarded him as the true Sultan of Johor. In 1896, the family of Tengku Alam fought over the inheritance rights of the Istana, giving the British the chance to take over the estate as state land. However, the Sultan Hussien Ordinance of 1905 allowed the descendants of the royal family to continue living in the estate and claiming allowance from the British colonial government.

After independence, the Singapore government also allowed the royal descendants to continue staying in Istana Kampong Glam. They were given $250,000 to $350,000 annually in the nineties until the Istana was selected for conservation and restoration in 2001. The descendants of the royal family of Sultan Hussien, formerly the rightful owner of Singapore, left the Istana and were seldom heard of since then.

So how many Istana (palace in Malay) are there in Singapore?

The royal Istana that once existed in Singapore were Istana Lama, Istana Tyersall, Istana Woodneuk and Istana Bidadari. Istana Kampong Glam is the only one left standing today.

Sultan Abu Bakar’s grandfather Temenggong Abdul Rahman (died 1825) had an Istana Lama (old palace) built at Telok Blangah of Singapore (known as Teluk Belanga then) in 1824. The European-styled mansion stood on a large 200 acres of land given by the British as a resettlement deal after the 1819 treaty. Today, Temenggong Mosque (built in 1890) stands in its place. Temenggong Abdul Rahman and his son Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim were buried in a tomb beside the mosque. Both the mosque and royal tomb are still owned by the Johor Sultanate.

Abu Bakar himself was born at Telok Blangah, succeeding the ownership of the estate and title of Temenggong in 1862 from his father Daeng Ibrahim. After moving out of Telok Blangah, he bought the land near the Botanic Gardens to build a grand red-roofed mansion known as Istana Tyersall, which was completed in 1892, three years before his death. It was one of the first residences in Singapore powered with electricity, and was furnished with extravagant ornaments and furniture. It also had a 21m-tall tower decorated with a symbolic crescent and star. Istana Tyersall, however, was destroyed in a fire in 1905.

On a nearby hill, Sultan Abu Bakar built another majestic blue-roofed house for his beloved fourth wife Sultana Khadijah. It was Istana Woodneuk, often confused with Istana Tyersall but was just as grand during its heydays. In 1930, the house was renovated by Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar (1873-1959), son of Sultan Abu Bakar and the 22nd Sultan of Johor. Today, it is surrounded by thick overgrown vegetation along Holland Road, forgotten and in ruins. The land where the house is standing on still belongs to the Sultan of Johor.

Istana Bidadari was the birthplace of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar, whose mother was Zubaidah binti Abdullah (Cecilia Catharina Lange), the Danish wife of Sultan Abu Bakar. The palace was located on a 45-acre of land at Bidadari Estate in Serangoon district. In 1904, the colonial government acquired the land and turned it into the Bidadari Cemetery for Muslims, Hindus, Singhalese and Christians. The cemetery was closed for burials in 1972 and was cleared by 2001 to make way for the North-East MRT Line.

Johor Sultanate’s administrative capital was shifted to Tanjung Puteri (present-day Johor Baru) from Telok Blangah in 1866, but the Johor royalty continued to build their residences in Singapore in order to maintain a presence here.

The most famous Istana in Singapore is none other than the one at Orchard Road, which is the official office and residence for the President of Singapore and is not related to the Johor Sultanate.

It was constructed in 1869 by British architect John Frederick Adolphus McNair on the orders of Singapore’s first colonial governor Sir Harry Saint George Ord (1819-1885). Also formerly known as the Government House and Istana Negara Singapura, it was occupied by 21 colonial governors, two Yang di-Pertuan Negara (Head of State) and six Presidents of Singapore (although no Presidents have lived there since 1959). In between, it was also forcefully occupied by the Japanese forces during the Second World War. The Istana was gazetted as a national monument in 1992.

Inside the compound of the Istana, there is also this beautiful house known as Istana Villa. It was built in 1908 as the official residence for the Aide-De-Camp, Private Secretary of the Governor of Straits Settlement. The black and white colonial bungalow became the Attorney-General’s home in 1958.

From independence to 1984, the bungalow was used as a state residence for prestigious foreign guests, such as China’s Deng Xiaoping and Malaysia’s Dr Mahathir Mohamad.

111 Responses to A Forgotten Past – The Last Royal Palace of Singapore

couldn’t help but tie its remains to a book i bought from kinokuniya titled ‘Gedung Kuning’ who claims that her family bought over the Istana at kampong glam in 1912 and was the sole proprietors of the house till 1999 when the government ‘reacquired’ it. – http://www.gedungkuning.com/history/index.htm

at least, the author did not claim to be or royal lineage but embedded the istana instead with her memories of a family legacy 🙂 too bad the rest are long gone and lay in ruins but good to know at least some still want to remember the good old days.

Gedung Kuning is now a restaurant called Memanda if I am not mistaken. The Istana is just further down. Gedung Kuning has birds statue at its entrance. Though I am for preserving old buildings, turning a grand house into a restaurant is demeaning.

My late Religious and a Pious Teacher told his students to move to Telok Blangah as he said this place is a blessed place at the time the Govt. was demolishing the village at Kampong Belayar – now that land is a Golf Course

There was also an Istana @ P.Tekong Besar called Istana Merak. Unfortunately I could not find any information abt it anywhere. I was lucky to get the info from an ex-villager, probably the oldest one still around. Anybody has any info??

Sorry, let me rephrase my 1st comment (11 April 2012) – There was also an Istana @ P.Tekong Besar called Istana Merak. Unfortunately I could not find any information abt it anywhere. I was told abt this by an ex-villager, probably the oldest one still around. Hopefully someone knows abt this….

Just one little comment on the Istana Bidadari where you wrote: “Istana Bidadari was the birthplace of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar, whose mother was Zubaidah binti Abdullah (Cecilia Catharina Lange), the English wife of Sultan Abu Bakar.

Celillia Lange was of Danish extract. Some of her Lange relatives – grand-nephews etc – are still around in Singapore and a few are my cousins by marriage.
Best wishes.

Errol G
Perhaps we are related somehow 🙂
As we are told by some relatives that we are the descendants of the Sultan Daeng Tengku Abdul Rahman i.e the father of Sultan Daeng Tengku Ibrahim. Lots of mysteries, indeed.

I have some old black and white photos of a Malay boy who was guarded and entertained by elements of the 6th Anti Aircraft Battalion, Royal Artillery in Singapore circa 1936-39. My father was one of the soldiers, and left the British Army to work for a British tin dredging company. When the war broke out he was in the Federal Malay States Volunteer Force. He came back to UK for surgery in 1940, so was one of the few lucky ones.. I always wondered who the boy was, having been told he was someone of importance.

The post card was mislabelled. This is actually the residence of the first chief minister of Johor. The building still exists in Johor Bahru. It is located on a hill called “Bukit Senyum” or “Smiling Hill” in English.

Hi Tengku Abdul matin
We are told that we are the descendants of Sultan Temenggong Abdul Rahman. Tengku Molek and Tengku cantik used to come to our late grandma’s house at old Bedok village, before the “confrontation” took place. So far my brother is only abled to trace our lineage up to Tengku Hamid. Do you have any idea about Tengku Molek and Tengku Cantik? and also a lady named Khadijah who is/was a professor as she is able to know about the lineage.
Thank you.

Not much online info about it… It supposed to be the Johor Sultan’s resort palace that once stood at Wing Loong Road (now defunct) before the sixties. Wing Loong Road was somewhere near present-day West Perimeter Road in Changi, and there was a Kampong Ayer Gemuruh nearby as well as a stream called Sungei Ayer Gemuruh.

In the 1970s, the government kicked off a massive land reclamation of about 13 sq km in Changi for the construction of the new airport, and hundreds of buildings, kampongs and graves in this eastern part of Singapore were demolished. The coastline was shifted almost 5km towards the east.

In 1970’s I was living just opposite the kampong Ayer Gemuruh and having a few friends who were residing there. I could still remember that there was a spring water which had never stopped to flow thus giving the people there a source of water supply. It was amazing, indeed.

Hi,
My late grandmother used to tell me that I was born twin. My twin brother had died few months after we were born in 1975 when he suffered jaundice disease and he was buried at the grave where the Changi International Airport Terminal 1 stands now.
When the grave were moved due to the build of the airport back then, until today my family do not know where it has move to. Sad for me. 😦

My cousin used to live in that Istana and I happened got the chance to visit them there, once. We are told that we are the descendants of the Sultan of Johore that was why my cousin was allowed to live there. We are still tracing our lineage but not that easy, though.
Perhaps checking by using DNA would solve the mysteries 🙂

Hi tengku abdul matin : since u are frm the royal family lineage, saya ingin bertanya pada tengku do you know the decendent of temenggong daing abdul rahman in spore ? N maybe do u have the family tree of temenggong? Because i was told by my late father that we are the decendent of temenggong but i could not trace the lineage. The info i got frm my late father is exactly the same as one member frm this forum ( ebal) . Perhap u have some info to help me. Terima kasih. Waiting for ur reply….

Hi Daingputra,
We have the genealogy scroll of Temenggong Abdul Rahman (family tree) made and done in the year 1937 under the order and command of HH Sir Ibrahim.
We are in the midst of tracing the rest of the descendants of Temenggong Abdul Rahman of which most of them are already in one registered society in Johor.
If you have valid evidence of your connection with Temenggong Abdul Rahman, you are invited to join us as one big family.

Im so grateful of your reply. I wanted to know what kind of valid evidence that i need to bring. What i have are the video cd of my late father interviewed by me and the drafted family tree according to my late father info. Do you have email so can post this drafted family tree to you. Hopefully, you and your relatives know any names in this drafted family tree. According to my late father, Tengku Molek and Tengku Cantek used to visit him (kampong Bedok Singapore) and ‘dukung’ him and his grandmother (Badariah@Dara) used to visit them at Istana Johor.

Great to hear from you.
You can email it to my hubby’s: ungkujoey72@gmail.com
Btw….we gonna have annual general meeting this coming 29th December at English College Hall in JB.
If you feel you are connected to Temenggung Abdul Rahman, you are most welcome to attend.
We have registration booth for new members too after verification of the descendant status.

Salaam Cik Puan Ann,
I found out that Temenggong Abdul Rahman 3rd wife is a lady from tanjung surat. unfortunately there are not much info about his 3rd wife and the descendants. As i understand that tanjung surat is at johor lama. According to my late father his datuk/moyang that are from temenggong are from johor lama. Do you have any info about the lady frm tanjung surat (3rd wife of Temenggong Abdul Rahman) and her descendants or any of her descendants that already registered in the family tree society as you mentioned earlier ? Im still searching and looking for the connection as this is the wish of my late father. (p/s : I already email my drafted family tree and my father n mother photos to your hubby’s email. Did you receive it ? )
Thank you.

Thank you for your info, Im so pleased to know that Temenggong Abdul Rahman had 12 children from all his 3 wives. I only know 7 names of 12. Also thank for the confirmation of his 3rd wife a lady frm tanjung surat. I have post some info to your hubby’s email. Btw, how am i to be able to see the genealogy schroll that you mentioned ?

Wassalam Daingputra,
Temenggong Abdul Rahman had 12 children from all his 3 wives.
And yes, he had a 3rd wife from Tg Surat but details of her was still a mystery.
The current Sultan of Johore is from Temenggong Abdul Rahman’s youngest son (Daing Ibrahim) lineage after Daing Ibrahim took over the throne from his elder brother (Tun Haji Abdullah) with British involvement.
The British paid a monthly sum to Tun Haji Abdullah which was managed by Daing Ibrahim. This was confirmed by Bonham, the Singapore Governer at that time.
The genealogy scroll by HRH Sir Ibrahim in 1937 had names of Temenggong Abdul Rahman descendants.
Perhaps there are few names in it that might be familiar to your own family tree.
My hubby havent checked his email. Kinda busy of late.
Will look into it soonest possible.
TQ for your reply.

Salaam, CikPuanAnn…
After reviewing your latest info and comparing it to my late father’s info, i found some interesting notes. I searched tru the names of Temenggong Daing Ibrahim children and i found out there are some names that attracted my attention such as Daeng Abdul Rahman s/o Temenggong Daing Ibrahim with Tengku Andak (d/o Sultan Abdul Rahman I Muazzam Shah-Riau/lingga). After going tru again the info frm my aunt, she did mention that my father salasilah is frm Sultan Ibrahim ( frm my understanding is that old folks always refer Temenggong Daing Ibrahim as Sultan Ibrahim that is because Sultan Ali (Singapore) ceded the throne to him. At beginning i’m a bit confused, which one that my aunt refering to between Temenggong Daing Ibrahim with his grandson HH Sultan Sir Ibrahim. After looking at the year such as birth date, Temenggong Daing Ibrahim was born in 1810, so considering his children birth date will be around 1830 onward. So I think Temenggong Daing Ibrahim should be the one that is mentioned by my aunt as Sultan Ibrahim. Because my Great great grandfather Daing Abdul Rahman born around 1832 ? and my Great grandfather Daing Sapeh born around 1857 ? and my grangfather Daing Osman born in 1882. So, im not sure Daeng Abdul Rahman and Daing Abdul Rahman (my g g gfather) are the same person ?

I’m interested to discuss the lady from Tanjung Surat. I am the 8th generation from that branch. It is all “allegedly”, “supposedly”, “apparently” since I cannot verify them in any official records. Family legends (if I can call it that) say that she was a dancer that caught the eyes of the Temenggong. What happened next is what they “allegedly”, “supposedly”, “apparently” call it history.

Salam perkenalan to ZakBahrom. Im glad that you reply to my post. Im still searching to establish the missing link of my late father’s connection to Temenggong Abdul Rahaman. One of which, maybe frm the lady of tanjung surat ( any name ?) and the other one maybe frm Temenggong Daing Ibrahim. The info that my late father given to me, eg some names such as Tengku Molek and Tengku Cantek that will be directly to Temenggong Daing Ibrahim lineage (descendants) by HH Sultan Ibrahim to Tengku Haris Abu Bakar (Tengku Molek’s father). The other clue is that of Johor Lama. I would be glad if you could share information about the lady frm tanjung surat, such as her descendants frm Temenggong Abdul Rahman. Maybe i can get some clue frm the names list of her descendants. May i know you frm Singapore or Johor ? Thank you for your reply. Hopefully we can establish the missing link and be in one big family. Insya’Allah…

Tunku Chantek and Tunku Molek are the granddaughters of Sultan Ibrahim (4). The lady from Tanjung Surat is allegedly married to Temenggong Abdul Rahman (1). Apparently, all the descendants of this lady is supposed to have Wan before their names. The rest have the Ungku/Engku, except for the Sultan’s descendants which carry Tunku.

We are using this blog to discuss something that is beyond this platform, sorry guys. This will go on back and forth, so why don’t we communicate privately. Here’s my email: zakbahrom@gmail.com

Singapore sultan Hussein descendants Tengku Shawal now and family is still doing their royal Adat and they are recognized by PAP as sultan Hussein family and still received 330k sgd renewal till this day . They are residing in Singapore living a normal life like us

Anyone Tengku from Malaysia wanna claim they are his family are liars only the ones in Singapore former residence of kampung gelam and under sultan Hussein ordinance of Singapore government are the true heirs.

Hmmmm somehow I doubt that Shawal’s family still receives $330k per year. Unless you are part of Tengku Shawal’s family and receiving that money, I doubt that is true. If it is true, then the money is no properly distributed to the “Rightful Decedents”. check out: http://www.royalark.net/Malaysia/johor8.htm for Sultan Hussein’s genealogy. The rightful decedents that have claims over the Sultanate in Singapore are keeping a low profile and not living up to their rights as Royalty. They need to step up and claim their rightful place.

There are plenty of Sultan Hussein’s descendants out there, in Singapore, Malaysia etc living a normal life and keeping a low profile. I’ve read in a few newspaper articles of the past, they did try to claim their rights however were ignored, therefore many just gave up and moved on. Probably only Tengku Shawal’s family (and a few others) are the only ones receving the $330k… Just my thought..

Upon its completion in 1858, this building was used specifically for royal ceremonies such as the inauguration of the sultan and royal weddings. The ground level was used as a museum for the antique cars of Sultan Abu Bakar and Sultan Ibrahim.

Upon the completion of Sultan Abu Bakar Grand Palace, the royal residence was moved to the new palace and this building was left vacant. From the 1970s until the end of 1980s this building was used as the Bukit Zaharah Religious School. However, when the religious school was moved to a new building in Jalan Yahya Awal, the building was left abandoned until today.

The design concept of this building reflects the influence of western architecture. This is clearly shown in the plan and elevation of the building. The plan, which is in the shape of a letter ‘t’ is similar to the clover flower split into four. The design is chosen to accommodate four main groups of foreign dignitaries like the Malays, English, Chinese and Indians during the royal functions.

The Western architectural features can be seen in the use of classical ionic columns, decorative plasters for the outer walls and interiors of the building and decorative glass above the windows and doors of keystone shape. Similar to other western architectural features, the windows of this building are of segmental shape.

“Tengku Alam tried to launch a civil war in 1879, known as Jementah Civil War, in an attempt to recover his properties and sultanship, but the uprising was easily quashed by the British.”
You are wrong on two counts. Tengku Alam did not try, he did launch a civil war. He won the first battle, but unfortunately lost the war. The British just stood aside. It was the Temenggong’s men and supporters that fought the war “http://mediumnetwork.tripod.com/perang.html”. My great-great-grandfather was involved and was rewarded well. Unfortunately, all the rewards in Muar slipped out of the family’s hands.

Sultan Hussein was never the Sultan of Johor!! It was his younger brother Sultan Abdul Rahman who was given the succession by the Johor Royal Council (nothing to do with the British). SAR and Temenggong Abdul Rahman lobbied strongly for Sultan Hussein to be the Sultan of Johor, but were unsuccessful, due to the strict adherence to the royal selection criteria (that is another story). SAR however moved his Johor capital to Lingga away from all the potential actions.

It was the British with the support of the Temenggong who installed Sultan Hussein as the Sultan of Singapore. At this point nobody wanted the hinterland of Johor, it was just thick jungle and deemed useless.

This article brought back memories of the time i followed my late grandma on her frequent visits to Istana Kampung Glam. She is the only one besides my late grandpa who keeps the Tengku title in her name. My late mum though having both parents of royal lineage did not use the Tengku in her name. As a child, i was told that we were descendents of the royal family but not from the Temenggong branch. We are from the original Singapore Sultan lineage. My late grandma grew up in Pulau Tekong. My information are in bits and pieces as my family seldom speak of their lineage. Squabbling over inheritance seems to be a common agenda and our family lost land and property to relatives. As such i am very reluctant to name my family members here as i have no wish to bring up old issues. Nevertheless, i am proud to be of the royal lineage and proud of my family even though i do not have the riches associated with royalty. My parents brought me up well and i am happy with whatever they have done for me. Thank you.

Just to let you guys know, the Tyersall House has already been fully restored to its former glory and now served as the official residence of the Japanese ambassador in Singapore. Even so, not a single Japanese ambassador had ever stay in the residence, and chose to live in their own private housing in Singapore.

Hmmm so strange why they serve it as the official residence for Japanese ambassador despite in past history what Japanese had done to our fore-fathers and etc? This glory house should be serve for our local VIP house instead.

Yes I have info…my name is jamal…the makam u seaching is makam Daeng Abdullah ibni Almahrum Daeng Marewah. …how u are related to him
The tomb Stone is yellow in colour…group up with his related jasad from pilau sudong located near the shed at pusara aman just before u reach pusara aman mosque…enter by that small road …when u see the shed..or shelter….

Dad did tell me a story that my late uncle visited a place in Johor guarded with royal escort. As my late uncle pass an old guard, he called him Tengku. My late uncle denied the status but the guard responded that he could tell the differents by his instinct.

I’ve no idea where my roots are from as Dad doesn’t reveal much. All i know that i’m a Bugis by blood but malay in writing. In articles stated of Datuk Meor Rahman i can see names of my mums side such as Wak Kusang and Ahmad Puah. But nothing went i search for at googles for Daeng Abdullah ibni Almarhum Daeng Marewah…

Hi Azar…thats all I can assist you….
My words of advise…whats u desired have been also done by d keturunan …the batch during ur late father time…but the johore side would not really entertain u coz so many people try the make claims…and also royalty benefits…and so forth….
The best approach is the to take pride u are their decendence. ..fatihahkan mereka during ur prayers…Trust me darah bugis darah berdua lat. ..n Allah will give u blessing in His own ways…I mean berkat keturunan…Trust me….All the best….

Heard from my dad. Believed that we are descendants of the said Daeng. I heard part of the storyline from Dad and wanna know how are we related to Johore. My Dad kept a scroll of the Family Tree List and it was written with a Royal Mark. I’m puzzled to know is it genuine or fake.

Oh, what a lovely informative site for Singaporean living abroad. Sometime in 1984, after a sad incident at the mosque in Kg. Malyu, in Ramadan, I went to the local libraries to research on Gampong Gelam, the Kg Melayu Jln Eunos and the so called, “Malay Settlements”, but did not have the heart to do anything about it for so many reasons. Thank you for your generous spirit in this site. “Majulah Singapura!”.

Typos above. And by the way, most of the related information on the Istana Kg Glam and Johore history of Singapura are not in the Johore Archives. According to the officer I met, the infirmation was retrieved by the Johor royal family and placed in Istana Bukit Serene. I wonder if that remains true today. It would be interesting to know of the shenanigans of the EIC and the family of the Bendahara..

The Sultan of Johor and The Crown Prince of Johor reciting prayers and paying respect at the graves of His Majesty’s ancestors,Temenggong Abdul Rahman and Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim at the Johor Royal Mausoleum, Telok Blangah, Singapore.

SINGAPORE – Istana Kampong Gelam, a former Malay royal palace and a reminder of Singapore’s historic links to the Malay world, will be gazetted as a national monument on the eve of Singapore’s Golden Jubilee.

The gazetting of the 172-year-old building, now home to the Malay Heritage Centre, was announced by Communications and Information Minister Yaacob Ibrahim announced at a Hari Raya dinner for community leaders on Friday night. It will become the 70th national monument when it is gazetted next Thursday, August 6.

“Even as a minority community in a multiracial country, our heritage has never been at risk. We are proud of our history, customs and traditions, because these speak to us of treasured values like piety and dedication,” Dr Yaacob, who is also minister-in-charge of Muslim Affairs, said.

“Many of you would have seen these values and traditions captured in the beautiful collections at our Malay Heritage Centre. That the building will be gazetted just before Singapore’s 50th birthday is, to me, a firm recognition of the Malay community’s continued contribution to the diverse and vibrant social tapestry of Singapore,” he added.

Prior to the arrival of Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, Singapore was a part of the Johor-Lingga-Riau sultanate, and Raffles secured the agreement of Sultan Hussein Shah and Temenggong Abdul Rahman to set up a British trading port here. Kampong Glam was a key area of settlement for migrants from the Malay Archipelago, and communities of merchants and traders settled in the area, which became a commercial hub. Many street names in the area also attest to the varied cities and islands of origin of early immigrants, and the late 19th to 20th century, Kampong Glam was known as a hub for printing and publication.

The original istana was a timber hut, and the present two-storey structure was commissioned by Sultan Hussein’s son and heir, Tengku Mohammed Ali, and completed in 1843. As the residence of royals, it hosted important community events.

Madam Zuraidah Abdullah, chairman of the Malay Heritage Foundation’s board of directors, said the gazetting of the building is timely “as it recognises Singapore’s historical connection with the wider Malay world as we celebrate our nation’s Golden Jubilee”.

“Gazetting Istana Kampong Gelam as a national monument also recognises the integral role that our Malay communities and culture have played in shaping Singapore’s history and development as a progressive and prosperous nation.”

Istana Kampong Gelam was first gazetted as a conserved building within the Kampong Gelam Historic District by the Urban Redevelopment Authority in 1989. After it underwent refurbishment works, the Malay Heritage Centre was opened there in June 2005 by Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong. The centre went through another round of refurbishment works between 2011 and 2012 to refresh its exhibition content. The building is today under the care of the Malay Heritage Foundation, and managed by NHB.

Being conferred national monument status by the NHB means that a building will get greater protection under the law, and will have to abide by preservation guidelines. It will also have to undergo regular inspections to ensure its proper upkeep.

Ms Jean Wee, director of NHB’s preservation of sites and monuments division, said in a statement that the gazetting of Istana Kampong Gelam “is part of our ongoing efforts to identify buildings and structures that are lasting representations of the growth of our country and people amidst a constantly evolving landscape”.

“Collectively, the Istana Kampong Gelam, and our other 69 national monuments, reflect the architectural and cultural diversity of our society,” she added.

SINGAPORE — Singapore’s royal family is quarreling over a slum-clearance project. It’s no ordinary slum, though. It’s the one the royal family lives in.

Just over a wall from a squeaky-clean tourist district is a grimy 160-year-old mansion, and a royal family many Singaporeans don’t even know exists. Roosters strut the compound’s cracked pavement. Greasy water in an open drain simmers in the equatorial heat. It’s hardly the well-scrubbed image Singapore likes to project.

Singapore’s government has a penchant for tidying up, and this little enclave has been on the to-do list for years. Now Singapore is evicting the ethnic Malay princes who live here rent-free, so it can turn the mansion into a tourist attraction — a Malay cultural center.

But Tengku Mohamed Bin Tengku Jamil, a wiry 50-year-old plumber, isn’t making it easy. Joined by a Malay civil-rights group, he’s alleging racism — a touchy issue in a country that was wracked by race riots in the 1950s and 1960s.

Malays are Singapore’s original inhabitants, but the Chinese brought here in the 19th century as cheap labor by British colonialists are now almost 80% of its 3.4 million people. “The Chinese come, they say ‘Can I stay in Singapore?'” says Tengku Mohamed through angry tears that well up whenever he talks about his home. (“Tengku” is “prince” in Malay.) “Now they got the country, and they want to treat me like an animal.”

This is unusually blunt talk for Singapore, and it worries Tengku Damaishah Aziz, a portly 28-year-old contractor and distant cousin: It could irritate the city-state’s powerful bureaucrats just when he’s trying to sell them on a deal.

Tengku Damaishah says he would be happy to leave — if the government gives back 56 acres surrounding the compound, known as the Istana Kampong Glam. A century ago, the British took away the land in a court squabble among family members over who should inherit it.

“We’re not sentimental about the building,” he says. “We’re only sentimental about our heritage. I believe my family owns this property, and we’ve been short-changed.”

Singapore argues that the court decision, and a 1904 law granting the clan a share of rents from the 56 acres, ended the family’s claim. “There is no doubt that the Kampong Glam estate … is state land and has been state land for more than 100 years,” a government spokesman says.

The dispute has stirred up the sleepy mansion and the corroded tin-and-wood shacks that have metastasized around it. Before the evictions began, 170 people lived here, some still cooking over open fires. On a recent Saturday afternoon, three old people sit in cheap plastic chairs under the front portico, talking quietly and smoking. One gently combs her granddaughter’s hair.

Just around the corner, in a modest home office, Tengku Damaishah nods to a fax machine and two computers. “Look, I network,” he says. “I have lots of business contacts. We want to be seen as gentlemen who can deal with the government. We’re not going to shout in the newspaper.”

Tengku Damaishah still greets his relative the angry plumber respectfully as “older brother” when they meet — Malay formalities are important in the compound, where extended families still live in a single house just as in traditional Malay kampongs, or villages. Privately, however, he considers Tengku Mohamed “an empty can which makes a lot of noise.”

The compound’s residents trace their roots to Sultan Hussain, who in 1819 was enthroned by the British to bless their takeover of this strategic trading post. But he never ruled. Instead, he grew so obese he could barely walk, and often fell asleep as soon as he sat down. He squandered his government allowance, and once had to watch helplessly as two dozen concubines escaped his compound, complaining of beatings with rattan canes. After 15 years he left for the Malaysian port of Melaka, where he died the next year.

Seventy-nine direct descendants still divvy up his allowance, which these days amounts to as little as a few dollars a month, depending on how many brothers and sisters it must be shared with. Most have moved to neighboring Malaysia, where the money goes further. Only a dozen or so direct decendants still live in the compound.

Tengku Damaishah, seven generations from Sultan Hussain, is one of the lucky ones: His father got a big chunk of the stipend, plus some of the rents from the surrounding acres, and never had to work. Tengku Mohamed, even though his card adds the title “prince” to his name twice, isn’t considered a direct descendant by the government. He gets no stipend and no rents. That, too, rankles him deeply.

These days Tengku Damaishah actually lives outside the compound much of the time, though he and his three brothers visit their mother there often. She lives in relatively spacious quarters upstairs; downstairs some poorer and more distant family members have nailed up sheets of plywood to create dank cubicles.

Just beyond the compound’s wall, the yellow dome of the 75- year-old Sultan Mosque, the city’s largest, dominates the neighborhood’s quaint, low-slung skyline. The operatic cry of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer floats above packs of tourists patrolling a lane of historic shops, restored in birthday-cake pastel whites and pinks, where Arab proprietors once lived.

But even this modest neighborhood is worth a fortune — Singapore is one of the world’s priciest real-estate markets. If Tengku Damaishah has his way, eight or 10 more high-rises would soon spike the skyline. He brandishes a plan his father ordered drawn up almost 20 years ago, showing office towers and a five-star hotel shooting up from the 56 acres. “We have to go 30 or 40 stories,” he says, “for a developer to be interested.”

Meanwhile the Malaysian press has picked up the spat — and come down squarely against eviction, stoking the old animosity between Malaysia and neighboring Singapore, which briefly formed one country following independence from Britain.

Those reports are “false and mischievous,” declared Singapore Law Minister S. Jayakumar before Parliament. The reports “could have soured race relations” he said, and were “interfering in Singapore’s internal affairs.”

The government has offered to increase the sultan’s old stipend tenfold once the people who still receive it move out — but meantime it has cut the payments. For all residents, it’s offering relocation expenses; the government says more than 120 have already agreed to leave.

Not so Tengku Mohamed, the plumber, whose bitterness recalls the Malay anger when Singapore made Malays move out of their kampongs and into modern high-rise housing. That helped spark the riots that started on the Prophet’s birthday in 1964 and killed two dozen people. Many Malays have come to appreciate Singapore’s astonishing prosperity over the past three decades, which has left much larger Malaysia behind. But some working-class people like Tengku Mohamed say they still feel discriminated against in jobs and education.

“I live here. I was born here. My father was born here,” he says. As proof he hurls an ID card onto the coffee table of his little yellow house next to the mansion. “Look at me! I’m poor. I have no education. But I am of royal blood,” he says. “I am not going to move.”

THREE descendants of Singapore’s last sultan, who died in 1835, are suing the government over plans to move his offspring out of their palace and turn it into a Malay heritage centre.

Tengku Muzaffarshah, 25, Tengku Mohamed Damaishah, 28, and Tengku Ahmad Rosdi, 28, said yesterday that they filed suit on Friday against the government of Singapore for violating the rights of the descendants of Sultan Hussein. Tengku means “prince” or “princess” in Malay.

For months, about 200 descendants of Sultan Hussein have been split over the future of a neglected one-storey palace built 160 years ago in the centre of Singapore. Istana, as the palace is called in Malay, still houses most of the sultan’s offspring.

The Singapore government decided in March to turn the palace into a heritage centre for the Malay community.

In return, its residents are to receive a total of S$350,000 a year for the next 30 years. The three princes have invoked an old document guaranteeing the rights of the sultan’s descendants.

I have a photograph of myself taken in 1948, within the sultan’s palace at Johore Bahru, Probably of no particular interest, but I have always treasured it as a memento of my pleasurable and memorable sojourn in Singapore at that time.

I have a friend (Raja R) who is the descendant of Daeng Merewah (lost contact as the last time she told me that she wanted to go to Dubai to look for a job). She told me that mostly her relatives i.e the descendants of Daeng Merewah are living in Tanjung Pinang and also there is a Palace overthere.

After reading those articles, I realised that the Johor Sultanate who built the Istana Kampong Glam have no direct blood relation with Temenggong Daeng Abdul Rahman (may ALLAAH shower abundance of Rahmah on his soul and his descendants).

What makes me comeback to this forum (which I have forgotten) is after watching those Youtubers from overseas came to Singapore and roaming at Istana Woodneuk and I noticed the ruined building is full of graffiti, it is a very overwhelming sad sights. Istana Woodneuk was built by Sultan Abu Bakar (the son of Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim) for his third wife – Sultana Khadijah and the was sold to one of the Temenggong’s son.
Ref: https://remembersingapore.org/istana-woodneuk/

This Istana is recorded as one of the most haunted places in Singapore…. sad. During British Occupation, this Istana was used as a hospital to treat the British armies. When the Japanese attacked Singapore, It is said that the Istana was put on fire that killed 700 occupants – I’ve forgotten where I have saved the link 😦

I suggest the Descendants of Temenggong Daeng Abdul Rahman seek approval from the Sultan of Johor to restore this precious Istana Woodneuk and refrain people from entering the premises and the land.
(I’m thingking of doing the DNA test to prove that we are the descendants of the Beloved Temenggong Daeng Abdul Rahman)

From the history, I noticed there were lots of wars and killings between the parties involved to take the Throne, I suggest we make du’aa for forgiveness for them all. JazaakALLAAHU khair.

I myself are part of johor riau lingga royalty n holding Malacca grants of title deeds 1878 ..999 years ..u are right current king had no relationship total with sultan abubakar …….their are trully traitors had worked with British colonial without queens approval..and they revolk the powers of reigns …….if u really had good finance come n joint me but if you had relationship wit johor traitor king forget it …..

♥بِسْــــــــــــــــــمِ ﷲِالرَّحْمَٰنِ ارَّحِيم♥
اَللّٰهُمَّ صَلِّ عَلَىٰ سَيِّدِنَا مُحَمَّدٍ
As a Muslim, why ur words are so harsh towards me (also a Muslim)?
You’re being a descendant of a Monarchy doesn’t guarantee you a Paradise.
Good adab and piety are the most important for being a Muslim.
May ALLAAH SWT guide and purify you. Aameen!
If you are full of hatred and anger then it is sad that you are in total darkness without NUR.
AstaghfiruLlaah!
P.S please do not exchange any words with me no more

Salaam. Once I happened to call Kompleks Islam Johor (situated next to Masjid Sultan Abu Bakar along Skudai Road), one of the officers there told me if I want to know more about Temenggong Daeng Abdul Rahman lineage and descendants I was invited to go there to have more information.

Salaam. Here is a link for the chart of the family Tree of Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim (there are some information about Temenggong Daeng Abdul Rahman but sadly a number of the descendants remain unknown)

There was a Muslim cemetery in Bedok bordered by New Drive, Upper East Coast Road and Hwa San Rd. The area has been developed into housing. I found out it was a private cemetery. I do not know how old it was nor when the last burial was. My ggmother was buried there in the 1940’s, Does anyone know who owned the land when it was still a cemetery? Or better still if there is a register of the people buried there? I am trying to find out about my ggmother who was from Kelantan before moving to Singapore.

I am very shocked to discover that the “House of Sultan of Pahang” has been put on sale (I think is a recent one!). The “House of Sultan of Pahang” was mentioned here under “The ‘King’ of Bedok, Villa Haji Kahar and the Bedok Rest House”; it stands at what used to be the Bedok corner now Eastwood Road. This 1928’s building that is both charming and quirky, looks as though it has grown organically and lovingly maintained through the years.
While trying to find out more about the building, I thought I should look straight into the obvious – Sultan of Pahang (Abu Bakar of Pahang 1904 – 1974), since not much other records I could find.. I stumbled upon a short story written by Hsu-Ming Teo – Road Tales of the Sultan of Pahang; and was totally swept by it (very enticing). Then I tried to look for records of the Sultan entering Singapore back in his time – reports as early as the 1930s, then quite many times afterwards..
Could there really be a possibility that this House on Eastwood Road really belong to the Sultan of Pahang? If so, how come there is not much gossips among the people who used to live around the Bedok corner? Could that be just a myth or worse still a decoy/conspiracy? Ha! A bit over the top…
Who really built this House?

Salam to all,
Does anyone remember Tengku Long, the daughter of Sultan Ali ini AlMarhum Sultan Hussein, ( My mother, who was her niece used to take my younger brother and I for visits at her lean-to at the Istana Kampung Gelam, in the 1950s). She was married to Pak Ali. At that time Tengku Endon and her husband Tengku Muda were living in the main part of the Istana. Others that I can recall were Tengku Aziz and Tengku Chik, ( married to Ungku Nai bte U Mohammed Tahir, of Johor)