An Oasis Along The Appalachian Trail

WAYNESBORO — For the hundreds of hikers who take on the Appalachian Trail each summer, Waynesboro has become a kind of oasis -- one of the first "full-service" cities along the 2,100-mile trail.

From Laundromats and campsites, to $2 showers at the YMCA and Internet access at the public library, Waynesboro has just about everything the "through" hiker could ever want or need in a pit stop.

"I walked off the trail and into the visitors center, and first thing, they're asking me what I needed and how they could help me," said George Facteau, 59, referring to the staff at Rockfish Gap Tourist Information Center. The center is located just yards off the trail at the intersection of U.S. 250 and Interstate 64, about four miles east of downtown.

Facteau, who started his hike April 14, took advantage of the free shuttle service offered by a group of volunteers known as "trail angels." The center keeps a list of names and numbers hikers can call for a ride into town.

"I called this one guy, and he said he'd be there in 20 minutes," Facteau said as he spoke to a reporter while waiting for his clothes to dry. "I tried to offer him some money for the ride, and he said, 'No way.' I tell you, my first taste of Waynesboro was just great."

"Most of them are very appreciative of the service here," said Joanne Whitaker, a travel counselor at the information center. "They're just overwhelmed about how we cater to them."

After trekking 841 miles from the trail's start on Springer Mountain, Ga., hikers are more than happy to experience a little "hospitality in the Valley," the slogan Waynesboro touts on signs welcoming visitors to the city.

Pam Bennett epitomizes that spirit as well as anyone. Each day during the summer, Bennett sets up a sandwich board-type sign on the sidewalk outside the Big Brothers/Big Sisters office on Wayne Avenue, where she works.

"Welcome Appalachian Trail Hikers" the sign reads in big green letters. Bennett always has a fresh supply of homemade cookies and lemonade for hikers. Aware that dogs often accompany their masters on the arduous journey, Bennett has biscuits for the four-legged hiker as well.

"I figured I'd increase the good reputation of downtown Waynesboro," she said. "It feels nice to do something for someone else. And besides, they all have such interesting stories. I love to sit and talk with them when I have time."

Many hikers head to the YMCA when they get into town. There, they can get a shower and, for no charge, use of the campground across the street.

"On a good day, we'll get 10 to 15 hikers," said Ernie Lowry, night manager at the YMCA. "We issue them a pass that they can use for a couple of nights, or longer if they need it."

Weasie's Kitchen on Broad Street has become famous among hikers for its home-cooked food -- both the quality and quantity.

"They love the all-you-can-eat pancakes," said kitchen manager Lori Littlejohn. "A lot of them will try to break records."

On their way back to the trail, hikers will often stop at a grocery store to pick up food for the next few days, or the tourism office to collect a package they've mailed ahead.

"We are very focused on the hikers," said Lianne Crookshanks, the city's tourism director. "Waynesboro is one of the first places they can get medical care, laundry facilities, lodging and groceries all in the same place, so we're constantly looking at how we can accommodate them."

Adds Rich Gibson of Rockfish Gap Outfitters, another must-stop for hikers: "We're one of the largest towns right off the trail. Basically, you can find anything you need here."

Gibson knows what it's like on the trail -- he hiked it in 1999. He had to stop in New Hampshire, just short of the finish at Mount Katahdin, Maine, when he came down with Lyme disease.

Gibson sees a dozen or more hikers just about every day during the summer, many looking to replace camping gear and restock supplies.

"Summer's starting to hit when they get to this point and they want lighter sleeping bags and tents," he said. "And footwear -- 840 miles up the trail, they're starting to blow out their shoes."

The average hiker goes through two pairs of shoes or boots during the average six-month trek.

Martin Hoey, 42, of Manchester, England, was still on his first pair when he resumed the trail one recent Friday after a two-day stay. He planned on trading them in soon, though, perhaps in Harpers Ferry.

"That's the next big step, mate," he said. "Traditionally, it's considered the halfway point."

Hoey, who expects to reach Maine by mid-September, praised the city that put him up for a couple of days.