Dish Review

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Although its named means “peacock” in Sanskrit, Mayuri is a Denny’s déjŕ vu, its drab décor only one paintbrush away from its chained predecessor. Über-chic it ain't. But the unassuming atmosphere lets the food speak for itself, and this traditional Indian restaurant masters curry and more. Start with a near perfect round of onion and spinach pakoras, crispy, delicate and not at all greasy. When it comes to entrees, Mayuri shows no mercy with portions. The dosas, South Indian crepes made with lentil flour and stuffed with veggie curry, were three times the size of the plagte. They alone justified the commute. On a recent visit the lamb saag flat-lined on flavor. Instead, opt for moist, succulent chicken tikka kebabs or the malai kofta curry, paneer-stuffed veggie patties in a creamy sauce. The service, like the décor, is courteous, utilitarian, and at times a bit slow, but for shareable, soulful Indian food, it’s worth the trip. (Originally reviewed 2/8/06.)