I can't get rid of 'em...
Before starting on suggestions, keep in mind that repair work from being sideswiped, including paint, is still less than 90 days old, so no buffing, clay bar, or waxing allowed yet... Any ideas????

For other that want a more in depth on water spots here is a copy/paste of a explanation and how to fix water spots that have floated around the detailing forums for years.

Quote:

The misnomer ‘water spots’ are likely to contain the atmospheric pollutants nitrogen oxide (NOx) and sulphur oxide (SOx) once water and heat (reactivity) both of which can cause paint discoloration, surface etching (a concave circular mark and pitting) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, which need to be removed and naturalized as soon as possible.

There are two categories of water spot-

a) Stage I Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

b)Stage II Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates. (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system) (See also Industrial fall out (IFO) Acid rain and Reactivity)

If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

1a) Removing Surface- (Stage I Corrosion)

• Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
• Use a paint surface cleaner (Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or / Zaino All-In-One (Z-AIO)
• Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
Allow chemical solution sufficient react time (5-10 minutes)
• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface
• Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface
• Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
• If any `water marks' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)

1b) Removing etched (sub- surface) - (Stage II Corrosion)-

• These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits
• Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)
• Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out
• Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary
• Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.
• If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish

1c) Using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised

Neutralization – after washing the paint surface use a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse all in one (AIO) or ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep; follow with ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acidic residue will be reactivated by heat and moisture. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection.

That's a LOT of great info - Thank you! One more question.... we have well water, pretty high in mineral content. Once I'm at a point where it's safe to wax, how often do you think is necessary to wax to prevent the spots, given the kind of water I have?? Once a month??

YUK, the worst of the worst, well water suxorz. You have some options here

Option 1

First although foam lance and gilmore foam guns are ideal I would suggest for you to get the Mr. Clean AutoDry Car Wash Gun, you can pick it up on amazon for $11. Also don't worry about getting the soap you can use whatever car wash soap you prefer, (I would suggest Duragloss 901 as it is real good with hard water). Some other things to keep in mind when washing.

I'm a little confused why any paint shop would tell you that you can't clay or polish the paint... waxing I understand. If its not fully cured then you don't want to coat the paint with anything that will 'seal' the finish, but clay leaves nothing behind, neither does polish, so to say you can't do either of these is just wrong... I respect the fact that the painter told you this, but it might just be a case of a paint shop not fully understanding what process AFTER their work entail (God knows why so many painters rarely know how to properly care for paint for some reason)

I'm a little confused why any paint shop would tell you that you can't clay or polish the paint... waxing I understand. If its not fully cured then you don't want to coat the paint with anything that will 'seal' the finish, but clay leaves nothing behind, neither does polish, so to say you can't do either of these is just wrong... I respect the fact that the painter told you this, but it might just be a case of a paint shop not fully understanding what process AFTER their work entail (God knows why so many painters rarely know how to properly care for paint for some reason)

Lady Bug,
If you have very hard water you can get a filter for your hose, relatively cheap that will take out the impurities kinda like a MR. Clean spray nozzle from Walmart, same principal, if it is a REAL BIG problem it may be doing more damage than you think to your entire residence pipes, appliances ( washers, dishwasher, refrigerator, icemaker etc... ) so anothe option maybe to have a licensened plumber install a water filter system on your home to help eliminate the problem. It will save you money in the long run, Just a thought.

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