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OK, I will bit. I can't get mine apart to add shims. :/ I've pushed the center pin down so the bottom pin can be grasped; but the sticking-out pin doesn't come all the way out, and once at that point, I can't figure out how to get the on/off top off to add shims.

serious issue with ULE

OK guys, I would definitely appreciate some help on this: I gas my gun up, test fire once or twice, and then the bolt continuously does not reset fully. I have to manually put my finger in the breech and reset the bolt. What is going on? It didn't do it until I put in the ULE. The trigger feels totally limp and the sear pin is not being pushed out at all by the xvalve on one or two occassions as well. I run a Crossfire 68/3000 preset and didn't have this issue before, it was a totally nuisance today at Boston Paintball, I sat out a few games because it wasn't working. I added shims to the point it went into runaway if I sweetspotted.

Any thoughts into what could be causing this to not gas up in the first place or after a few fast shots not let the sear reset for another?

lubed

Yeah, I put some oil in it, I also was getting borderline runaway (random doubleshots) just now so I took a few shims out. I wouldn't mind it being a little closer between shot and refill but it is also still sometimes not resetting right, mostly when I put my finger in the breech and shoot (in my apartment). When I have the issue on gas-up, it's almost like no air has filled the valve, then sometimes just "click" and it locks in. The on/off is lubed. I just don't get it and it is really making it unreliable to use.

lvl10

Level 10 should be fine, shooting 280 pretty steady, removed one shim because I was having an issue where if you put a little weight on the trigger it would start leaking, and it has no leaking down the barrel. I'm somewhat convinced it has something to do with the on/off or sear as it also shoots often when I gas it up. It sometimes lets the bolt move forward and stay there venting when I gas up and then if I reset it or let it fire, it's fine, I don't have a clue what's up.

well all i can say is
check and double check everything
check the sear and bolt lip for wear
make sure the on/off pin isn't bent and moves freely
then i'd say install your stock on/off just to make certain the ult on/off is the problem
oh ya make sure you have enough air in your tank
i dont know how many times my gun has started acting funny and worried me for a second just to see i only has 500 psi in my tank

I think I though of a reason why the LX bolts are getting stuck. It happened with mine when I tried it on my dads classic valve, but I didn't really worry about it since my X-valve is coming. I bet the kick back of the new on-off pin isn't enough to get the sear back on the bolt, and the reason it does it when you short stroke, is because there is even less kickback. I don't think the shims (in the level 10) would have anything to do with it getting stuck as long as it was set up right in the first place. They control the venting point if it pinches a ball, and when the bolt is getting stuck with the ULT, there isn't any air to vent.

Try upping the tank pressure if you have an adjustable reg. That is if adding more shims doesnt work.

This is all speculation, and I really don't have much way to test it since I don't have a valve right now, but I figured Id try and help somehow.

tank

I have a set pressure tank so I can't adjust it. I was always under the impression Mags work fine with a Crossfire tank but that could be the case that 800 isn't enough. If it is, I wasted my money because this problem definitely caused my gun to go down and I don't have faith in it to work right now.

The only times I have had a problem with the bolt not reseting is when my air pressure is too low. I would have the output of the tank checked to make sure that is good. Do you have an intellifeed setup and what kind of trigger frame are you using?

setup

Here's my full setup:
ULE body/XValve (both purchased at initial release of them), stock minimag rail, Intelliframe with intellifeed (not like that would affect much), Crossfire steel nitro 68/3000 (the green one). Not 100% on the output, 800 or 850, and never had a problem before with it really. Not like this problem especially and it seemed to really be an issue after a couple hours of playing just yesterday and never before. The weird thing is how sometimes when I turned the air on it didn't even feel like the valve pressurized and pushed the on/off out. Any thoughts?

Ok, I messed with my dad's valve again, and I found that he didn't set up his LX quite right. He needs another shim in it. It will reset off of balls, but not a finger. So maybe I was wrong about the LX shims not doing anything. Try adding another one to your LX and see what that does.

after shooting HateE's marker, it had some "shot down". brought up by the AGD engineers that it would happen.

question, does a valve mod actually help? he has the stock 1 hole, where as i was ripping shots off with my AR frame, and doing fine (Autoresponce, not retro) that has 7 holes, yes 7, i guess they got lazy.

Yea... I dont think its really a shim problem but more of a recharge problem. It shot a constant fps if you shot REALLY slowly, im talking like really slow, like as slow as a one armed dude could fire a pump.

BLACKVCG

I don't think another Lvl10 shim will do anything, I removed one because if I put pressure on the trigger it would leak. Would being short 1 shim in the Lvl10 actually prevent bolt reset?

I will try another tank when I can but this problem really didn't arise till the ULE trigger.

By rail bushing do you mean the part the field strip screw goes through? I'm pretty sure it's still there. Why would the screw need tightening with an allen wrench? I screw it in real tight and have tried it again and again in case the valve wasn't lined up right or something. No luck.

The thing that confuses me is how it's gone between not gassing up at all to not functioning or the bolt not resetting after rapid fire. What else could cause that?

The more I think about it, the only reason that the bolt would stick would be because there was still some air in the chamber, and the vent hole is past the o-ring. If there is no air in the chamber, then the bolt has to reset. The spring is too stiff for it not to. So then there has to be some air in the chamber. And if the number of shims is just right, then it would either vent or sit back far enough for the sear to catch the edge of the bolt.

shims

OK Speeddemon, maybe you are onto something, but how would having one few too many shims cause extra air to stay in the valve? That does make sense though, but how would that also cause the on/off to not reset on gas-up too? You might be right, just trying to figure it out? Because I swear I'm getting the issue where too many shims cause leaking if slight pressure is put on the trigger.

I need to fill my tank and then I'll fiddle with this but it's aggravating the hell out of me.

One side question: how precision can Lvl 10's/ ULE triggers be with shims? It seems like you could get it real close to perfect and then by an oring settling a little (not even wearing in, but just settling) or by the rail and body sitting differently, it could throw your timing, go into runaway, etc. Thoughts?

One other curious question: does having a thinner channel for the air to flow through in the on/off reduce the ROF the Mag can keep? OR is the recharge rate for an Xvalve and basic pressure principles result in that at 400psi (chamber pressure) the smaller space for the air to get through has no effect on ROF, just the reactivity?

Just trying to figure out why my Mag is suffering right now, I want to get this bad boy up to peak performance. I appreciate all your help guys.