The Way It Was

Old-fashioned Caribbean Charm Is The Appeal Of St. Lucia

August 04, 1991|By Larry Habegger and James O`Reilly, Special to the Tribune.

St. Lucia`s main source of income is from bananas, not tourists, and that helps explain its appeal. It is quieter than many of its more developed neighbors, and has a cultural richness that hasn`t been perverted by too many resorts and too many cruise lines. It embodies an old-fashioned Caribbean charm.

St. Lucia is a mountainous, 24-mile-long teardrop in the Windward Islands between Martinique and St. Vincent, 1,500 miles south of Miami. It changed hands between Britain and France 14 times over the centuries but finally won independence from colonizers (the British were the last) in 1979.

While the official language remains English, the locals speak a French patois. For movie buffs, ``Dr. Dolittle`` was filmed here in 1967 at Marigot Bay.

The peak season stretches from mid-November to mid-March, but the ever-blowing trade winds keep the temperature bearable (and insects away) even in summer, when prices are way down. And even though the rainy season begins in July, its sudden, torrential downpours are usually over in minutes.

The rainy season can last until November, but its only true downside unless you dislike rain is that heavy storms cause sediment to wash into the otherwise clear, pristine coastal waters, making scuba diving a little bit less than perfect near the surface.

The best way to see the island is by taxi, not because you can`t rent a car, but because the roads to some of the islands most scenic spots are awful and best negotiated by a local driver. Taxis are unmetered so you will need to bargain beforehand.

Soufriere is St. Lucia`s oldest city and has a small drive-in volcano to visit; nearby at Diamond Falls you can take a hot sulfur bath followed by a dunk in a freshwater pool.

Worldwide updates

AIDS: The disease is gathering steam in Asia, particularly in Bangkok and Bombay. Transmission among heterosexuals is high, according to the World Health Organization and Thailand`s Health Ministry.

Antarctica: The Pacific Area Travel Association is planning to draft the first formal code of conduct for tourism to Antarctica and present it to Antarctica treaty countries for adoption in November. The hope is that by developing guidelines for sustainable tourism, the increasingly popular tours to this continent won`t result in environmental degradation.

Central African Republic: Anti-government demonstrations in the capital city of Bangui have grown in size and the possibility of violence exists. Avoid large gatherings and be careful what you photograph. Many seemingly innocuous places are off-limits, and photographing them could lead to trouble with authorities.

Ireland: Because of a recent rash of counterfeiting, $100 bills are almost impossible to convert or use anywhere in the country. No banks will accept them and finding a currency exchange office that will is difficult. Other denominations are freely accepted, as are traveler`s checks and credit cards.

Japan: Traffic in Tokyo is a gridlock and parking nightmare. Be aware that tough new parking laws are in effect, with the cheapest parking ticket at $72 and the maximum a whopping $1,450. For information on transportation alternatives, contact the Japan National Tourist Office, 401 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 770, Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-222-0874.

Liberia: While a ceasefire continues in the civil war, there could be an outbreak of violence at any time. Non-essential travel here should still be avoided.

Madagascar: Large demonstrations against the government have been occuring since early June in the capital city of Antananarivo. A state of emergency was declared recently banning public gatherings, but protesters have defied the ban and the army has not enforced it. Tensions are high and violence is possible.

Malaria: Chloroquine used to be the medication of choice for preventing malaria, but chloroquine-resistant strains of the disease have flourished in many parts of the world. Mefloquine, sold under the trademark Lariam, was developed to counter this threat, but is sometimes hard to get in the U.S. The once-a-week regimen should be started one week before travel, continued during travel in malarial regions, and four weeks after leaving such areas.

Nicaragua: Change your money at banks-doing it in the street is illegal and can be dangerous.

Pakistan: Do not photograph people without asking permission. While most people will happily have their pictures taken, some women won`t, and men can be violently protective of them. Be careful in southern Sindh province, where kidnappings and banditry are a serious problem.

Papua New Guinea: Street crime continues to be a problem in Port Moresby, even during daylight hours. Be watchful.

Philippines: Continuing eruptions of Mt. Pinatubo have from time to time reduced operations at Manila`s Ninoy Aquino International Airport, and flight delays could occur. Avoid areas within 20 miles of the volcano, and especially avoid low-lying areas downstream of the mountain due to the threat of mudflows.