Tracing the Origins of the Bikini

It’s official: Summer 2018 is almost here and CR is taking a look at the history of the bikini.

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The First Suits

As the saying goes we’ve come a long way baby. Anyone with a teenage daughter may wax nostalgic these bathing gowns from the Victorian Age when purity and chastity were a woman’s best assets. The only “bi” about them was the fact that they were comprised of bloomers and dress. The idea of being revealed to the public was so reviled by many a Victorian woman that some models came with hoods to disguise the wearer while others took to a “bathing machine"—a completely covered floating outhouse that allowed the swimmer to enter and exit the water completely out of sight. Sounds like a lifeguards’ nightmare but it was, for some, the only sensible approach to public swimming.

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The Roaring '20s

We all know what the roaring '20s and Coco Chanel did for letting it all hang out but who knew it was one of the earliest examples of gender-bending? Both males and females were enjoying newfound freedom in these tricot knit suits that were surprisingly similar. But beware the decency police who flocked to beaches in search of “violators” who wore their suits too short or in the case of men, bared a dastardly nipple. Oh, for shame.

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The Discovery of Lastex

By the 1930’s the first 20th century fitness craze was underway and the idea of swimming for sport and leisure time activities was in full steam. Fortunately, a new discovery called “Lastex’ which was rubberized wool made the suit more effective. Still these looks were borrowed from the boys

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Jacques Heim's First Bikini

Jacques Heim could be thought of as the bikini “co-creator” though he did not coin the term. However taking know-how from his mothers lingerie business the French couturier released a two-piece bathing suit called the “Atome” in 1932. It may have resembled lingerie a bit too much with its “ruffles and pretty bloomers” which caused it to be banned in many places and disregarded by the fashion influencer set.

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The Bikini Crazy Begins

By the 1930s the first 20th century fitness craze was underway and the idea of swimming for sport and leisure time activities was in full steam. Fortunately, a new discovery called “Lastex’ which was rubberized wool made the suit more effective. Still, a lot of these looks were borrowed from the boys.

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Hawaiian Style

Hawaii—no surprise there—was a major influence on swimwear in the 1940’s which saw the introduction of some midriff styles that resembled modern shorts more so than a bathing suit.

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Louis Reard's Modern Bikini

Despite Heim’s trailblazing efforts, Louis Reard, another French Couturier is credited with the modern bikini. Named for the atomic bomb tests by the U.S. military on Bikini Atoll in the Marshal Islands. He debuted the skimpy garment four days after the tests on July 5th, 1946 establishing the little known “bikini day” Oddly, the original style as modelled by Micheline Bernardini at the famed Piscine Molitor in Paris, looked more 80’s by what may have been the pioneering of the “French-cut” leg on swim, lingerie and bodysuits popularized in the New Wave decade.

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Brigitte Bardot Makes a Splash

Brigitte Bardot probably did more for the wet T-shirt than anyone else via her dampened dress and the topless bathing trend that emerged in France once the two-piece was popularized, and with her various scenes in the 1956 classic film “And God Created Woman.” With her yacht lounge deck and smoking picture, she epitomized the French sun worshipping culture for generations to come.

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Best Bikini of All Time

Raquel Welch had just three lines in the 1966 British sci-Fi fantasy flick One Million Years B.C., but her caveman-chic bikini designed by the film’s costume designer Carl Toms stole the show and spawned Welch’s popularity as a bikini babe. In fact, the American-born actress was recently voted Best Bikini of All Time in a 2016 survey of 2000 women in celebration of national bikini day, July 5th.

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Like a Bond Girl

Ursula Andress' (funny sounds like “undress”) appearance in the 1962 Bond film Dr. No helped sales of the oft-thought taboo swimwear style sky-rocket, timed perfectly at the beginning of the sexual revolution. Her character Honey Ryder also influenced another "Honey," Mariah Carey’s 1997 hit song in which the songstress cavorts about in a Bond-like plot sporting a similar style. Video stylist Joe Zee (along with yours truly) had several custom styles made for the diva to wear on set in Puerto Rico where the video was filmed and directed by Paul Hunter.

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Slim Aarons-ing

Slim Aarons knows a thing or two about poolside chic. In this photo taken in 1971 of locals living the life on a yacht docked in St. Tropez, the photographer pretty much epitomizes the glamourous beachside-poolside life the French Resort town is known for. While you might wish to put something else on, a bikini was all you really needed.

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Introducing the Thong

The 1980s fitness craze led to the popularity of one of the best, or worst things to happen to the bikini, the thong-back. Originally designed by Rudi Gernreich and adopted mainly first on mainly Brazilian beaches, it also appeared on popular one-piece maillot styles. The thong-back let those who spent their free time aerobicizing and sadly those who didn’t, show their rump to the world. Clearly, this was a look that inspired the Kardashians. Or at least Beyoncè, who has favored them in her many video and concert performances.

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Neon and Neoprene in the '80s

Another popular 1980s bikini was the neoprene scuba suit inspired Body Glove swimsuits that pioneered a utilitarian look on a sexy swimsuit. They ruled the waters in bright neon colors and are quellé surpris, making a comeback among millennials.

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The Burkini

Originally designed in Australia by muslim resident Aheda Zanetti, (though could work wonders for those wishing to avoid the damaging rays in the land down under), the burkini or burin—both are correct—caused such a ruckus in France that it was banned in several municipalities reasons given being. Recently, Hollywood bad girl Lindsay Lohan has taken to studying the Islam faith and was spotted in Phuket, Thailand surfing in one.

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Courtesy of Reard

Beard's 2017 Comeback

The name that started it all, Reard, launched again last summer under the Creative Direction of Celiné Adler who formerly worked in the Chloé design atelier. While not directly referencing the pin-up version of the first Reard, the look was still cool, modern and sexy.

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