Another super Beaujolais: Jean-Paul Brun's Terres Dorees

So, after my recent recommendation for Dubost’s fabulous Tracot, here’s another Beaujolais that really hooked me. It’s from Jean-Paul Brun, who is one of the natural wine guys, but who does use a bit of sulfur dioxide. On the first day it was quite tight and closed, but on day two it was really singing, which makes me think it might be worth cellaring this one for a while.

Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees Cote de Brouilly 2009 Beaujolais12.5% alcohol. Fresh, pure, raspberry and cherry fruit nose with some subtle herby tones. The palate is fresh, vivid and bright with nice density, and herb-tinger raspberry and cranberry fruit. Nice precision to this taut young wine, which is well structured with good acidity. Opens up nicely on the second day. 91/100 (£12.70 Savage Selection, £90 case in bond from Bordeaux Index)

You should also try the Morgon from Brun, another superb wine for the price. Honestly, I care less about how much sulphur dioxide Brun uses. The results are outstanding and these wines show a real sense of place. Natural or less natural, authenticity is there.