Fascinating food in New York and occasionally farther afield

Lassen & Hennigs

This longtime deli/bakery/caterer prepares the softer style of black-and-white cookie ($2.25); as at Leske's Bakery, still-moist frosting perches on a spongy base. Because it travels more easily, the fondant-draped variety — as at Nussbaum & Wu — is much easier to track down in New York, and you can find it in multiple color combos. But sometimes there's good reason to make the trek to Brooklyn Heights: If you want to "get in your licks," only a softie like this will do.