In 2017, one of the city’s most celebrated chefs, Ollie Dabbous, abruptly pulled the plug on his 34-seat eponymous restaurant so he could debut this—three levels in a sparse Scandinavian style, with plenty of space to throw money at ideas and allow diners to absorb the ministrations of his staff of 200, including 15 sommeliers. The wine list from Hedonism, one of the city’s most comprehensive wine stores, is one of the largest in the world (more than 6,000 bottles—you will splash out in more ways than one). Choose the street-level, a la carte Hide Ground, serving all three meals, afternoon tea, and baked creations; or Hide Above, overlooking Green Park, for fine-dining tasting menus; Hide Below is the bar and wine cellar (try the martini made with birch sap instead of ice). Any choice will wow, with dishes weaving acid and richness to deliver amazements that always belie the deceptively plain menu descriptions. This is what happens when a talent is given full license to play—you get a menu full of headliners. Charred asparagus in meadowsweet and hay buttermilk with praline; 7-year aged Simmenthal beef tartare with nasturtium, tobacco, and molasses; miso-glazed goose or turbot in verbena and a sauce made of its own bones; a saffron-indulged bouillabaisse that has caused many a grizzled food critic to exalt like the Pythia channeling Apollo. Don’t expect any dish to loiter on the menu for long, because Dabbous has built the perfect personal theme park for inventing new thrills. He’s thought of everything, down to the phone chargers in the tables and the lighting, which (for real) intentionally eliminates shadows so you can properly Instagram your dinner, because once the mastery of the cooking is complete, each plating yields a second work of art. Make reservations as far ahead as you can.

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