I bought a garand from the CMP Alabama store a couple of years ago. They were very easy-going and let me swap them my drivers license for a set of chamber and muzzle gauges as I took my time and selected what I thought was the best 2 in the racks. I would guess there were around 300 to choose from. When I was ready to buy, and went to turn in the gauges, somebody tore the rifles down to check for any obvious deficiencies.

When I got the rifles to the range for the first time I broke an extractor. I emailed their customer service and they mailed me a replacement for free. Gotta love the CMP.

I would take my own throat erosion and muzzle gages.
Spend the extra and get a Service Grade over a cheaper Rack or Field Grade unless you are considering a rebarrel in the near future.

This sounds trivial but I have seen rack and field grades bring much less in trade in value that have not been rebarrelled than Service Grades with the original barrel.
Of course this only applies if you think you may trade the rifle off sometime in the future.

I have been to both the North Store and the South Store. The North Store armorer on duty assisted me in field stripping about 3 Service Grade Garands and helped point out good and not so good areas. He also checked the muzzle and throat for me. At the South Store, the folks were just as friendly, but I was not looking for a Garand at the time, but an 03. Like rlltd42 said, they wanted either my drivers license or military ID to hold and let me use their muzzle gauge to my hearts content (probably gauged 100 03s looking for the one that "spoke" to me). When it was time to buy, the armorer gave it a once over pronouncing it a "fine specimen." Great folks work at both stores and WANT you to find the best rifle available on the rack. The North Store was willing to pull a couple more out from the back if I didn't find one that was suitable (I did), but the South Store folks said that everything that was ready for sale was already on the racks. I don't think you will be disappointed with a Service Grade from either location. Just remember that these weapons are anywhere from 50 to 70 years old and have been in combat or used for training for combat. Stocks should be sound, but will have "character." Metal should not have any rust, but will show signs of wear and sometimes a little too much cleaning.

You may want to register on the CMP forums. Some times there are guys nearby who will help someone new out and show them how to do things. The most important things on an M1 are trigger guard engagement(how much force you need to lock it into the stock, more is better), the condition of the wood, and muzzle and throat erosion.

You may want to register on the CMP forums. Some times there are guys nearby who will help someone new out and show them how to do things. The most important things on an M1 are trigger guard engagement(how much force you need to lock it into the stock, more is better), the condition of the wood, and muzzle and throat erosion.

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Muzzle erosion is more important than throat erosion, ME will be less than 3 for a Service Grade barrel, but 2 or less is quite common. TE can be up to 3 on an SG also, but again, 2 or less is common. If ME<=2, and TE<=3, your rifle should be a good shooter with proper ammo.

CMP sells new walnut stock/handguard sets if you get unattractive wood on your rifle.

Although you do need tight trigger guard engagement for best accuracy, you don't want it so tight that you are unable to disassemble the rifle.

One more item: ask CMP for the highest serial number they can get for you, within the grade you order. The post-Korea (5 million SN or greater) rifles had the latest manufacturing upgrades and tolerances, and they also tend to be the least used/best condition rifles.

One more item: ask CMP for the highest serial number they can get for you, within the grade you order. The post-Korea (5 million SN or greater) rifles had the latest manufacturing upgrades and tolerances, and they also tend to be the least used/best condition rifles.[/QUOTE]

I have on in the 600,000 range that was re built in November of '64 then moth-balled. I took a silver with it at Perry during a Garand Match.

Before you go any further, what are you looking for in a Garand? A good shooter, a WWII specimen, a nice looker or a correct version with matching manufacturer parts.

If you are looking for a good shooter, go with the service grade, they even have some with new replacement wood. For the most part, the lower TE and MW along with good fitting wood will give you a good shooter.

The folks at the CMP stores will be able to help you with field stripping and checking TE and MW. Check out the CMP forum for more info including inventory at the stores.

I bought a garand from the CMP Alabama store a couple of years ago. They were very easy-going and let me swap them my drivers license for a set of chamber and muzzle gauges as I took my time and selected what I thought was the best 2 in the racks. I would guess there were around 300 to choose from. When I was ready to buy, and went to turn in the gauges, somebody tore the rifles down to check for any obvious deficiencies.

When I got the rifles to the range for the first time I broke an extractor. I emailed their customer service and they mailed me a replacement for free. Gotta love the CMP.

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I take it you mean Anniston? I'm from the Dothan area. I'm planning to gift my father with one of the collector's grades when I get back from deployment. I'm going to try to buy my buddy's m1 but if he turns down my offer I plan to turn to CMP. Do I need some type of membership to go to CMP and get a M1 Garand? I think I read a long time ago that I would need a C&R license.

I take it you mean Anniston? I'm from the Dothan area. I'm planning to gift my father with one of the collector's grades when I get back from deployment. I'm going to try to buy my buddy's m1 but if he turns down my offer I plan to turn to CMP. Do I need some type of membership to go to CMP and get a M1 Garand? I think I read a long time ago that I would need a C&R license.

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If you are active duty, reserves or retired military, that's the only membership required. Proof of citizenship is also required.

If you do bring your own muzzle gauge, if it's shape like a 30.06 bullet and you're gonna be flying, make sure you don't have it as carry on. Our wonderful TSA guys will take it from you.
Show up early, and bring donuts.

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