Houstonian qualifies for U.S. Barista Championship

By Alison Cook |
October 30, 2013

David Buehrer, owner/partner of Blacksmith coffee shop, practices for the Central Regional Barista Compeition in Minneapolis Oct. 25-27 Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013, in Houston. In order to get geared up for the competition, Buehrer is going to practice by doing his presentation four times a week, twice a night, for up to four people at a time.
( James Nielsen / Houston Chronicle )

Photo By James Nielsen/Staff

David Buehrer, owner/partner of Blacksmith coffee shop, practices for the Central Regional Barista Compeition in Minneapolis Oct. 25-27 Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013, in Houston. In order to get geared up for the competition, Buehrer is going to practice by doing his presentation four times a week, twice a night, for up to four people at a time.
( James Nielsen / Houston Chronicle )

Photo By James Nielsen/Staff

David Buehrer, owner/partner of Blacksmith coffee shop, practices for the Central Regional Barista Compeition in Minneapolis Oct. 25-27 Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013, in Houston. In order to get geared up for the competition, Buehrer is going to practice by doing his presentation four times a week, twice a night, for up to four people at a time.
( James Nielsen / Houston Chronicle )

Photo By James Nielsen/Staff

Blacksmith's David Buehrer placed fifth in the regional qualifying round.

Photo By James Nielsen/Staff

David Buehrer, owner/partner of Blacksmith coffee shop, practices for the Central Regional Barista Compeition in Minneapolis Oct. 25-27 Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013, in Houston. In order to get geared up for the competition, Buehrer is going to practice by doing his presentation four times a week, twice a night, for up to four people at a time.
( James Nielsen / Houston Chronicle )

David Buehrer, an owner and chief proprietor of Blacksmith coffee bar, has qualified for the prestigious U.S. Barista Championship to be held in Seattle next April. Buehrer placed fifth out of 36 contestants at the South Central Region barista competition in Minneapolis this past weekend.

The top six finishers in all six U.S. regions set up by the Specialty Coffee Association of America go on to compete for the national title. It's the first time a Houstonian has progressed to the national championship round of the competition. Buehrer last competed four years ago, when he placed seventh at the regional meet.

The barista competition sounds as nerve-wracking in its way as the biannual Bocuse d'Or culinary competition in France. "Competing requires the same kind of intense practice as the Bocuse d'Or," notes Buehrer, who worked out in the competition format every night for weeks in advance, coached by Blacksmith barista John LeToto.

Buehrer and company were given just 15 minutes (not including setup time) to prepare four espressos, four cappuccinos and four espresso-based specialty drinks (the freestyle portion of the contest, showcasing their own signature repertoire). "They are literally up in your business," he recounts. "Four sensory judges tasting, two technical judges scrutinizing every move and a head judge tasting, clocking times, noting my composure. They're looking for every spill, every drip, every service misstep."

Buehrer challenged himself by preparing two specialty drinks for each sensory judge, instead of the single one required by the rules. He did a strawberry hibiscus tea with a shot of espresso, served warm, at 120 degrees, to maximize the sweet elements without having to add too much sugar. Then, for his bonus specialty drink, he prepared a coffee-infused yogurt served at a cool 55 degrees, to maximize its creaminess.

Buehrer said he lost points on his espresso times and tamping down the ground coffee before putting it into the machine.

Lastly, he recounts ruefully, he figures he lost points because he left his carefully tended yogurt cultures back in Houston and was forced to make yogurt from commercial cultures in Minneapolis.