Ok, Here We Go Again.

I finally gave up on my cheapmod and I ordered a brandnew X2.2L I just installed it about an hour ago. However, It does nothing but frag. I can boot my xbox with the chip disabled, but if I boot up my xbox with the chip enabled, it starts to frag. I checked all connections, LPC, D0 they are all fine. HELPP!!!!

Oh yeah one more thing, since installing my X2.2L my eject button NO LONGER WORKS. How the hell do you all get these modchips working. I performed a perfect solder job when installing the X2.2.

If anyone has ANY ideas on what I can do Please let me know. This is really starting to annoy me.

99.99999999999% of people who said they have a perfect solder job, indeed did NOT. check it again. frag with chip on means that you've got a bad solder job on one or more of the LPC points. the eject button not working...... check to see if you plugged the cable back in securely. if it's a 1.0 check to make sure the daughterboard is in it's place good.

I know its not my chip because I had a cheapmod that was doing the samething. Maybe I just screwed my LPC port, I dont know, Im gonna take the mobo out and do a complete spot check for extra solder on places I dont want it.

If anyone has any info on why my eject button doesnt work now PLEASE let me know. it worked fine before I put the X2.2L in.

did the eject button just stop working, or did you do something around that area. check the wires to the lpc points and the wires to where the lpc ends with a multimeter. this will tell you the condition of teh lpc points. i read the inital post wrong, i though you had a cheapmod running and decided to go to an x2. but still check from the connector to the end of the lpc to tell if you f'd it up. 2 of the points dont go anywhere that i could see so if you find them and where they go id like to know, i think it was the green and red.

I did install the Switch according to Xbox-Scene instructions. So yeah I removed the front plastic of the box containing the power and eject switches but I checked them 3 times and there are no lose or broken wires anywhere.

Has anyone else had any problems with the eject button not working on their Xbox. I get no response from the eject button no matter if chip is enabled or disabled, I dont think it has anything to do with the chip.

Yeah I have a multimeter, I am getting a complete circuit from wire to all points on board except at the eject button, on points A B which are connected to each by board trace. does anyone have a schamatic of the switch board.

bottom of the first post. there should be no continuity b/n 4 and ground when button is not pushed, but there should be continuity b/n 4 and ground when button is pushed. if there is no continuity at all, that means that the button if f'd. if it works like it should then check around the header, otherwise you are screwed.

Ok based on what you just explained the switch is still good. so I must have f'd up the trace from the wires to switch somehow.

What wires coming into that module control the dvd-rom, I will just solder new 30Gauge from the wires to the switch, I was able to open the drive by grounding wire 7 I believe, I might be wrong. I will check and let you know.

i just realized that i forgot the link to the thread. here you go http://forums.xbox-s...ST&f=24&t=50825 you would need to ground wire 4 to simulate the button being pushed. if this works than the xbox is fine and if the switch is fine than it is a problem b/n the two. like you said just get some wire (22-24 ga would work fine) and bypass the trace on the power/eject board.