ISA Brown, Hy-Line or New Hampshire x hens are highly prized for beginners: they train you. However, their short life span often make people seek out a longer lasting breed. So which one is right for you?

​This has been a hot topic amongst most of my callers, emailers and clients, that I just had to share it with everybody.

Growing up on a farm geared for high egg out put, I really only thought there were one or two breeds of chickens. But when I moved to the city, a whole new world of chicken breeds opened up to me.

Today I have had experience raising around 15 different breeds of chickens.

So where do you start when you have grown out of owning hybrid hens?​​

Big Chicken or Little Chicken?

Do you have children that love to cuddle hens?

​Do you want a meat/egg bird?

​​Purebred meat/egg hens are much heavier than a utility hybrid hen. Some can weigh up to 4kgs.Bantam hens can weigh between 570g to 1.5kg

Big Eggs or Little Eggs?

​​Do you want large eggs or small eggs?

​Bantam hens are a smaller than average sized hen, laying smaller eggs than what is available in the supermarket.

In recipes: use 2 bantam eggs per 1 normal sized eggBantam eggs hard boil quicker but can be a novelty for children and on platters.

Small egg layers are Silkies, Pekins, Sebrights, Japanese & Dutch BantamsVery large eggs are most often laid by Leghorns

Eggs often or less often?

As you move away from hybrid hens into the heritage purebred range of breeds the egg laying will be less often in the week.This is positive for the hens because:

Less eggs means a longer life span - less strain on kidneys, liver and reproductive system

You can have more hens to compensate

​CLICK ON THE POULTRYKEEPER.COM FOR INFORMATION ON EACH BREED- size- eggs per week​- personality

Things To Consider

Noiser/Quieter Breeds

Egg shell colour

Egg size

Size of the chicken

Active in the garden or Docile

Happy on their own or Very social

Similar to a hybrid or very different

Feathered feet or Clean legs

Housing size and room in yard

Cute or productive (yes, you can have both)

Can cope with hot/cold weather

REMEMBER there are many colour variations throughout the breeds to brighten up your backyard!

Top 9 Chicken Breeds to try after ISA Browns

​I receive this question a lot right throughout the year. Here is the honest answer:

​Sellers come and go.​People's opinions easily skittle someone's credibility as a breeder especially if they didn't get the hatch rate they wanted.​Seek out breed specific Facebook pages (or go on a friend's recommendation) and build up a relationship with the good breeders.​It does pay off.

Got some curly questions? ​Welcome to owning chickens for the very first time or those thinking about stepping into this very addictive life style. Or maybe you are doing a project for school.

​Everyone has to start somewhere.If you have never been told, how do you know?

If you do not see your question amongst these, please add them to the comments so that I can answer them for you.

​Let’s jump into some of the most common questions I receive.

​

Do all hens have wattles and combs?

​Yes they all do. These are the red fleshy parts around a chicken’s head.

A wattle is UNDER the beak.A comb is ON TOP of the head.

The trickiest ones to see this on is the Araucana, Polish and Silkie breeds (amongst others).​Depending on their breeding, they will still have these parts of their anatomy on their heads, but much smaller. The smallest type of comb is called a Walnut or Pea. There are many different shapes and sizes on different breeds of chickens.

These parts indicate the health of chicken, helps with their heat regulation and indicates their breed maturity.​

Do chickens make noise all of the time?

Yes and No. Chickens do not make loud noises all of the time.

They have their quiet times and different noises that they make to communicate with one another.

The noisiest part of their day is usually around egg laying time.They may sing a lot before they even lay an egg, or maybe they only sing the loudest after they have laid their egg. Some hens like to encourage others to lay too, so they can also be the noisy ones.​Happy quiet talking is a sign of happy chickens, especially when you walk out into the yard, as they will get excited that you may have a treat for them.​

How many eggs do chickens lay every day?

Hens can lay only one (1) egg per day.

It takes around 26 hours for an egg to develop inside her reproductive tract in order to be laid.​The amount of eggs laid every week will vary between breeds. Some breeds lay less often.Hybrid hens (ISA Browns or utility Australorps) will lay every day, but other breeds may lay only 3-5 eggs per week.​

Will a chicken peck me to make me bleed?

​It is very unlikely that a hen will be aggressive enough to peck you so hard that you will bleed. Hens will get broody from time to time and want to protect their eggs, but they still do not usually peck hard enough to harm you. It is more of a warning peck.

Roosters can be quite aggressive especially when he is mature and protecting his girls. His peck feels worse than a hen’s peck, but his claws and leg spurs are his most dangerous part.​

What is the difference between hens and chickens?

Can I buy some chickens from Adelaide Chicken Sitting Service?

I don’t sell any of my chickens, sorry.I am not a breeder, but I can tell you where you can find what you are looking for.​

How do I catch and hold a chicken?

To catch a chicken, try to place your hands over the top of their back to hold down their wings.

Easiest method is to pick them up from head on, rather than from behind when picking them up (e.g. from a roosting rail).

Trying to catch a running chicken is the worst, so DO NOT RUN.Instead, stalk them. Think like a fox and corner them.​

Grab at the tail, leg or hands on top of their wings to hold them from flapping.

Once you have grabbed your chicken, place one hand UNDERNEATH from the chest. You should be able to feel the keel bone underneath. Your other hand can either rest on top, around them or hold the legs. If your hand is resting gently on the keel bone, they should not be struggling.

A variation on holding them upright: Turn them around and slide your hand around the tops of their legs and interlock your fingers around their legs. This is how birds are inspected at poultry shows.

A chicken can also be held UPSIDE DOWN.​This is important if you are pest dusting them around the bottom, under the wings and through their chest. It is also useful when you need to catch many chickens at once, to hold many legs together in each hand. Interlock your fingers with their legs.

For INTERLOCKING: Think of how wine glasses hang up.​

Do not be scared of a chicken flapping and squawking while being held upside down. They run out of steam quickly and settle down fast. Place your hand on their breast to place them back down on the ground.

Please do not drop a chicken. They can get injured.

Best to place your hands over the wings to hold them from flapping and place them down feet first to the ground – and then release. You can use your body to hold down a wing, too.​

Do eggs come out hard or soft?

​Eggs come out hard. They may be warm and slightly damp just as they are being laid, but dry rapidly. If they come out soft and stay soft, then start feeding the chickens shellgrit to hardened up their shells again. Chickens need calcium from shellgrit for good strong shells.​

How can you tell if a hen is pregnant?

Chickens do NOT go through pregnancy.

If they are housed WITH A ROOSTER, they may or may not lay fertilised eggs. These eggs will only develop into chicks if kept at the correct incubation heat for 21 days once laid.

A fat chicken does not indicate fertile eggs.​

How do the chickens get the chicks to hatch all at once if they only lay one egg a day?

​Fertilised eggs can be kept at room temperature for about 7 days. In that time, mother hen will hop on and off her nest and lay an egg every day. By the 7th day or so, she will become broody and SIT. This sitting produces heat to warm up the eggs. This is when the fertilised eggs start developing into chickens. That is called DAY 1. By day 21, all chicks should hatch together.​

How do you get the eggs out of a chicken?

Chickens are able to push the egg out all by themselves while sitting in their nest. No human help is required.

The eggs come out the back end of the hen. The same place they poo from.​

Do roosters lay eggs too?

​No, roosters do not lay eggs and they do not help hens create eggs. They are ONLY for fertilisation (to make babies).​They are boys. Egg laying is only for the girls.​

How do chicks get milk from the mother hen?

​Chickens do NOT produce milk. Chicks will only need water and Chick Starter Crumble from time of hatching.​

Is a cockerel a boy or girl?

A cockerel is a young boy. He will be called a rooster once he is over 12 months of age.​

Does the rooster fertilise the egg before or after the egg is laid?

Before.​The sperm needs to travel the hen’s reproductive tract to fertilise the yolks that are waiting. The shell will then form over the yolks to create the complete egg, which will then be laid.​

How do you know that the eggs are fertilised?

Eggs will only be fertilised if there is a rooster in the flock.

They have to be tested by cracking open a few eggs on a plate. The yolk is inspected for the “bullseye” which shows development. These eggs can be eaten or thrown away after this inspection. They cannot go on to become chicks because their shells are broken. Once the consistency of “bullseyes” are found, then you have the green light for hatching.

When we know they are fertile, we can assume that the other eggs that the hen is laying are fertile too. Mother hen is likely to become broody and willing to keep sitting on her eggs to hatch them.​

Do chickens catch a cold when they lose their feathers during moulting time?

​No. Chickens are very resilient. Moulting is a natural part of their life. Feathers grow back again.​

Should I make or buy some clothes for my chickens when they moult?

No, please do not put clothing on chickens!

Many people like to KNIT outfits for hens thinking that they look cute and are helping with keeping them warm.

When knitted clothing gets wet, they hold the cold up against the chicken, which can affect their health. They have no way of drying out naturally.​Ever had wet sleeves on a cold winter’s day? It wasn’t comfortable was it? Same for the chickens. They are better without chicken clothing.​

I want 10 chickens so that we can have eggs every day. Is this a good plan?

It will depend on the breed that you choose for egg laying.

If you choose a utility hybrid breed like an ISA Brown, Hy-Line or similar, you will be rewarded with daily eggs.Can you eat 10 eggs a day? Do you have family/friends who would also like fresh eggs?

If you do not need 10 eggs every day, then consider another breed that lays less eggs per week.Research which breed is right for you.

Do you want big eggs or little eggs? (Standard breed or Bantam breed)​​The shell colour makes NO DIFFERENCE to the taste of the eggs.

Won't the chickens just fly away? How do I keep them in my yard?

Chickens really don’t like to fly. Chickens have limited flight capabilities, and the heavier the breed, the more limited they become.

For a chicken, it’s more about getting up or down from perches than taking off into the wild blue yonder.

There are the occasional escapee chickens, usually of the ISA Brown breed because they are so curious and lightweight. Some chickens prefer to roost up in trees. To limit escapees, ensure that all fences in your yard are at least 1.5m tall, and that’s most properties. Wing clipping can also stop escapees. EASY.

Chickens know where the food is and that’s what they hang around for.

Can humans catch Chicken Pox from chickens?

​No. The name ‘Chicken Pox’ is misleading. This virus does NOT come from chickens. It is not able to be transmitted across different species.​

What does it mean when a chicken's comb LAYS FLAT?

​If this is not part of a breed characteristic – such as a Leghorn or Ancona (Mediterranean breeds), then it might be a sign of a sick chicken. Are there any other symptoms? Consult your vet for further advice.​

What does it mean when a chicken's comb is PALE?

​Three possible reasons:

During winter or cold days the blood flow recedes and makes the comb look paler.

Egg laying reduces or ceases during late autumn/early winter. When they are ready to lay again, the comb will become redder.

Sick chicken. Check for other signs of illness. Make an appointment to see your vet.

​

What does it mean when a chicken's comb is DARKER than normal?

​Sick chicken. This is a sign of heart troubles caused by illness. Make an appointment to see your vet.

​Australian winters are very different to the northern hemisphere, so our preparations and activities can be a little different due to the lack of snow in most parts of the country. There is always buying, selling and ordering to do, but here are a list to help get you on track for the rest of the year!

​#1 thing you DON’T need: Heaters in the coopI’m saving you money already!

Here are my TOP 5 winter chores​

Straw - bales and chopped

​Chickens can regulate their own heat with the fluffing up and the contracting of their feathers. So we only need to focus on their feet, especially feathered leg varieties as they are more susceptible to the cold when their leg feathers are wet for a long period of time. Bantam poultry need the most care.

Give them a full bale of straw to jump up onto. Place in a semi-sheltered area, such as under a covered run, shed easement, inside a large walk-in coop, tree or trampoline.​A bale of straw provides:

relief from the muddy wet conditions

somewhere to dry out

height interest

wind break

something to peck at, especially when the bugs move into the bale

Chopped straw or sugar can mulch is great for reducing the muddy conditions, especially in high traffic areas into the coop. This may need topping up throughout the winter, but will be worthwhile.

Do you need to add extra straw to the roosting area in a small coop?No, in most circumstances it can be a waste of money and increase the risk of lice and mites. However, these pests are less active during the cold months. So it’s really up to you, but it’s not necessary. Save yourself a few dollars.​Some chickens loves to perch outside rather than in a cozy coop – they are so resilient.​

Clean out the nesting boxes

​Refresh the nesting box materials before the girls start to lay again just after the winter solstice.​Sweep out the spiders.

Put down Pestene or Diatomaceous Earth on the bottom of each box BEFORE adding fresh nesting box materials on top (wood shavings, hemp, chopped straw, etc.). These powders will help to keep lice and mites at bay.​

Buy/Sell/Giveaway Roosters

May, June, July & August are the big months for cockerel/rooster sales in Australia.

The availability of hens is much lower during this period due to last year’s breeding season now coming into maturity.

Not all roosters are ideal for breeding with, so know your breed standards well before buying/selling to avoid disappointment. Breed standards are available through Poultry Breed Clubs. (Check out the directories in Australasian Poultry Magazine)​Please consult your local council for restrictions on roosters in your area before buying.​Many councils in Australia do not permit roosters due to the noise.​

Pre-Order Fertilised Eggs

Wanting to hatch your own chicks this year?

July is usually the month breeders ask for pre-orders on their fertilised poultry eggs as it comes into the hatching season.

After the winter solstice hens begin to lay again if they stopped over autumn/winter. Egg laying tends to resume by mid-July, even though this is the very middle of winter.​Fertile eggs are posted out anywhere from August to December, on average.

This will also prompt you to do a few more things such as ordering heat tables/lamps and brooders, chick starter feed and vaccinations from your vet. (www.brookfieldpoultryequipment.com)

Set up a location for the broody mother to hatch or find a location for incubator hatching and brooding until 8 weeks of age.

There are so many different ways to keep chickens in your yard to suit your garden style. A mobile coop might be right for you.

​Moveable coops are not quite the same as mobile ones. A moveable coop can be picked up and moved by a couple of people, while mobile shedding usually comes with wheels and can be moved about by one person. They are also known as chicken tractors.

So rather than talk about mini coops that CAN be moved, let's have a look at the ones on WHEELS!

There are many benefits in having a mobile coop.Other than using a mobile coop as their main shed, they are also excellent for taking to a friends place for the weekend or can be used a quarantine coop or for breeding .

Most people instantly think of the A-frame that can be knocked up over the weekend by very crafty people. But if you are not the handyman and just need a mobile coop delivered ASAP, then here are a few good ones to try:

The price on an Omlet Eglue will vary according to the outside run length chosen.Wheels are optional and are able to be purchased separately. Wheels are $100.The 3m run option is the best option for this style.​With wheels it will retail for $848.00 plus delivery.

- The bottom allows direct assess to the ground without restriction, thus allowing dust bathing.- The wire mesh extends outward to deter predators from digging underneath.- The mesh will not prevent vermin from getting in.- There is a larger coop option available for more chickens.- Made entirely from plastic, it helps to prevent mite infestations and makes cleaning a breeze!- Hens perch directly onto the plastic grate floor. No roosting rails.​- Comes with a feeder and tarp for run.- Rear access door.

PERSONAL NOTE: I own one of these without wheels and can easily move it about my yard, with or without assistance. Unclipping the run from the Eglu is necessary if moving it by oneself. If you have a helper, they can lift the run rather than unclip.

Made with a strong by light weight aluminium frame and galvanized corrugated iron. There are so many different sizes available to choose from to suit your yard. This one is for 4-6 hens.Wheels are optional and can be purchased separately. Wheels are $50.With wheels and fox proof floor it will retail for $795.00 plus delivery.​- The bottom is fully meshed, allowing for grass to come through, but not for dust bathing. (Optional - $50)​- There are no doors internally to protect hens from the weather, so the position of the coop according to the wind is very important.- Optional external nesting boxes are $170 extra.- Colorbond is an extra $50 with plain galvanized as the cheapest option.- Mesh floor upstairs - poo will drop through to ground. (Do not place water source beneath this level)​- You can make alterations to this design with installing an internal wall weather shields and add a solid floor for an extra $50.- Roosting rails included.​- Rear access door.

Made with durable exterior materials to handle the weather, they also come with an extra trolley connector to make moving this coop about so easy.

Price will vary according to your location.$729 - $879 (eg. Adelaide $779)IMPORTANT: You will need to pick up your order from the freight company in your capital city.​(e.g. Findon Rd, Kidman Park, Adelaide)

- There are many different sizes available with or without wheels. Larger and smaller available.- Dine-A-Chook accessories are also available through their website.- NO internal upper story floor, only roosting rails and nesting box containers.- Chicken poo is able to be deposited directly onto the ground, enabling natural ground fertilisation as the coop is moved around.- No need to clean with this design.​- Hens are fully protected from the elements - although no vents are installed to regulate summer time air flow.- Fox proof floor is option in the smallest version for only $29. Options for larger sheds is not indicated.

​

SUMMER TIME

Please keep your mobile coop in the shade during hot days. Most of these coop designs do not have ventilation options other than being open internally.

Move them throughout the day to protect the poultry from the elements and to utilise the coop for maximum benefit - keeping down the grass and keeping it fertilised.

Also makes for happy hens to find new ground and bugs to eat while they stay safe from predators.

If you know of any other mobile chicken coop company in Australia that sells nation wide, please let us know.

I receive many calls from people wanting to know to buy and sell their poultry, and one method I often mention is putting Facebook groups to good use.

So I have compiled my list of Facebook Poultry Groups that I recommend - especially for South Australian residents.

My list is not exhaustive, just a great way to get started. Here are a few ways to help you search a little further:

#1 HINT: Search for specific breed groups and poultry clubs to help widen your buy/sell options.#2 HINT: Search for local groups, in close proximity to your location.#3 HINT: Search on specialty interests such as swap, dispatch, fertile eggs, rooster sales, etc.#4 HINT: Once in a group, investigate what other groups are recommended by the group users. Best resource!Joining a Facebook Group

To use a Facebook Group to Buy or Sell you will need a Facebook account.

Apply to join a group. This will be located as a button on the header. A moderator will approve your inclusion.

Make sure that you read all the terms and conditions so that you do not violate your membership agreement.

Some groups have a Sales Post tab through which you can place a listing.

Have you ever found that the chickens you were told were a quiet breed turned out to be anything but quiet? Some chickens just like to keep shifting the bar when it comes to predicting how loud or quiet they will be.

​We can easily be charmed by those sweet little chickens by their feathers alone without a thought for how noisy they might become.

So when the din begins there are some handy ideas to keeping the noise down.

Every council district throughout Australia will have animal policies, whether they are pets or livestock. Those of us living in the suburbs are keenly aware that we need to be very mindful of our neighbours and make sure that we are obeying the sound and smell rules on our properties.

Having just two or three chickens can be a breeze. Our neighbours will hardly notice that there are chickens over the other side of their fence. But once your chicken addiction starts to get out of hand, so can the noise.

NumbersThe amount of chickens will increase the noise. That might sound obvious, but there is more of a call from the girls in the morning when they beg to be let out of their coop if they free range throughout the day. Once out, the sound level will reduce until each girl goes into lay; that’s when they let everyone know that they just popped out a triumphant egg. The higher the number of hens, the stronger the smell can be, too.

On a farm with hundreds of chickens, there is an all-day noise from the chickens which a very different level to the town or suburban backyard. Listening to hens in a farm situation is like listening to the crowd of people at an entertainment event. They just have to talk. So it does go to show the more hens there are, the stronger and more constant the noise becomes.

SeasonsSpring is actually the noisiest month in our yard with the chickens. The days are longer and warmer, the girls are starting to lay double-yolker eggs, while a couple of the hens decide to go broody again. So if you are purchasing chickens at other times throughout the year, you may be fooled into thinking that the breed you have chosen is relatively quiet.

LightSpring and summer have an abundance of light that stream into the chicken coop, so minimising the light can help to keep the girls a bit quieter in the early hours of the morning. The trick is to still allow in a good airflow while reducing the brightness. Skylights are great for winter laying, but in the warmer months allow extra light and heat in. Try a temporary metal sheet or hessian sacks held down with a couple of bricks can reduce the extra light.​Growing vines such as grapes over the coop can also assist. In winter, their deciduous nature means that more light is able to penetrate the coop again. The leaves on the vines not only help to reduce light but still allow the airflow.

Make good use of fig trees in your garden for the coop position as they are great as a summer covering too, and allow in the winter light during their dormant season.

BreedsYour planned choice of breed can make all the difference. This means diligent research and compromise if noise reduction is very important to you. Bantams tend to be a lot quieter than larger sized hens. The good old ISA Brown hens can have variable temperaments but are overall a reasonable breed when it comes to less noise.

As lovely as Orpingtons, Sussex and Wyandottes look they can go on with their noisy outbursts for quite some time especially if they have just laid an egg or want a hen to get out of their favourite nesting box. Orpingtons can be very chatty as they follow you around the garden, putting in their latest complaint or chat about the weather. My Orpingtons are at their loudest in spring but are much quieter throughout the rest of the year. All breeds will vary.

Choose a docile breed for a quieter chickens, such as the Araucana, Andalusian, Brahma, Cochin, Faverolle, Frizzle, Hamburg, New Hampshire, Rhode Island Red, Silkie and Polish.

Please note that individual personalities of chickens can mean an unexpected noisier chicken.​ RoostersMany town and suburban councils Australia-wide do not permit roosters. Check with your local council before acquiring a boy for your backyard. Your neighbours have the right to complain to council by submitting a crow diary just like a bark diary for a noisy dog.

Keeping roosters for breeding and showing purposes is a common practice. However, roosters are easily set off at all times night and day by sound and light and their own crazy personalities. So reducing their access to light is the first priority to keeping their noise down.

Some rooster owners build their own Rooster Boxes to lock the boys away in every night, but please be aware that during the Australian summer months they may not have adequate cooling airflow in there. Those who have good success with the Rooster Box also keep the box in a very cool part of the house, usually in a cellar.

Rooster No Crow or Cock Collars is another way to reduce their crowing without stopping them completely. The collar around their necks reduces the amount of air that they can take in to let out a crowing noise. It will not prevent crowing from occurring, just the level of noise. Many people have mixed results due to the boys’ personality and breed.

Another method is to keep the boys in a small smaller squat cage so that they are unable to stretch to take in a deep breath to let out their crow. I would not recommend this as a permanent arrangement but it will help keep the boys from crowing throughout the night and early morning hours. Allow them out of this type of caging during the daylight hours for normal foraging activity.

EnclosureIf the chickens are used to free-ranging but are suddenly locked in, this can cause them more distress and thus the noise will become quite loud in protest. You may just want to mow the lawn or they need to be housed in quarantine due to health for a few weeks.

People who often purchase older hens and introduce them to a new backyard with a different coop and yard set up from the one that they are use to are most likely to have noise issues. Try to minimise their transition and attempt to give them as much roaming room as practically possible to help keep the hens calm. Providing boredom busters can help keep their mind off of their lack of room.

IntruderThe more time you spend with your flock the more you get to know all of their special calls. There’s general chatty time, ‘I need to lay’, followed by ‘I just laid an egg’, and the popular ‘Where’s my afternoon snack?’ call.

But there are other more alarming chicken calls that alert not only the other hens but us too, such as when there is a predatory bird flying overhead, a fox, snake or the local cat peeking over the fence.

The sight of a mouse can send the girls into a panic or flurry of excited activity and talk. Some hens love to hunt mice while others will be too scared to go near their food source while the rodent is in the area. This can stir the hens’ activity and noise level. If you need to cull the rodent activity, traps are safer to use than bait around the chicken coop. This in case a hen does catch a mouse to eat, we don’t want the hen to also ingest the bait unwittingly.

If your flock have become scared to go into their nesting boxes, there may be a predator in there taking advantage of the coziness and access to eggs as a food source, such as a snake or monitor lizard.

Take notice of their special warning calls and take up the opportunity to investigate during their calls for their safety and to return the calm. Hunt down what stirs them up.

Maybe you have a good technique for keeping your chickens quiet. We would love to hear from you.

"They don't make them like they use to." Searching for poultry or farming equipment can be the biggest mystery hunt you will ever encounter. Buying equipment NEW can often mean finding things on the internet that only come in wholesale bulk lots from India or China when all you want is just one thing. But what often lasts is OLD and is still worth hunting for!

But there is a good old farmers trick to finding what you need and its called Clearing Sales.

Farmers know that every farmer is a wealth of historical equipment storage, but one is hardly likely to drive up someone's driveway track to see if their neighbour has something they want. Its not good form, its not polite.

So everyone in rural areas throughout Australia hangs out for the Clearing Sales when farmers are ready to move on. They can't take it all with them, so its auction time. These auctions are usually held on the farms because there are so many lots to get through. Sometimes the district ladies will also provide sandwiches with tea and coffee for a small charge when the auction is a big one.

Sourcing things like large brooder heat tables, metal nesting boxes, chick carrier boxes from hatcheries and more are likely to be found at a clearing sale. I'm sure you can think of many more. Maybe just cheap rolls of chicken wire is what you are after. Every sale is a mixed bag of goodies. You never know what you might find. I call it a serendipity buying.

Where they are and When they are on?Local country papers often list the sales.Or check out national listings on farmclearingsales.com.au

A lot of people have been asking if anyone knows where they can buy some Vetericyn wound spray. It can be a little tricky to find in Australia. So here is quick run down on whether it is worthwhile adding to your poultry first aid kit.

Vetericyn Spray is a safe wound spray for animals and poultry for injuries that are exposed. This might be due to a an eye infection, feather picking, predator or pecking order attack, operation, mating injuries, post-op, flying into a fence, etc.

There is no egg withhold with Vetericyn Wound Spray like there can be with the 'purple' or 'blue' sprays such as Blu Kote.

And that is because of the ingredients which effectively is just a salt water solution.Yes, just salt water.

It is not a product that would be the best for bumblefoot as an antibiotic spray or cream would be of greater benefit to that type of wound.

Here's a quick run down to see the active ingredients according to the panel.

H2O = water (electrolyzed or not, it will still be water)NaCl = salt (table salt)NaOCl = bleach (for water purification)

You CAN make it - Home Recipe

You may have made it before especially if you or an infant have ever had an eye infection.Use cooled boiled tap water from the kettle and regular salt. (Non-iodised)

Ratio: 1 teaspoon of salt per 500ml of water

- Mix well and pour into a clean spray bottle.- Alternatively use a small Chux cloth wipe cut into small squares to moisten with the salt water solution for areas on your pet that need to wiped rather than sprayed. Discard used cloth after use.

Important note: Salt water solution should be made up daily, so only make your solution on the day you need to use it and discard any remaining solution after 24 hours.

You can use Vetericyn at $42 per bottle if you want, but dollar for dollar my money is on the good old home remedy.

The most common question I receive around Autumn every year when new chickens are at point-of-lay become available, is "How do I integrate the new hens in with my existing flock?"

My first answer is always to quarantine properly. Never just sneak them into the coop with your other chickens at night, that comes later.

The eagerness to add to the flock too quickly without a few weeks of a separation can lead to heartache and potential loss of life, so there are some basic rules that are essential to follow.

If you find yourself quoting any of these reasons below, this is the danger list and an absolute no-no.

Reasons why people do not want to Quarantine

I don't have enough space to have two sheds/yards

I hate waiting

Sounds like too much work

I've bought chickens from the same breeder before so I trust him

I've divided my coop in half, that should be good enough, isn't it?

I checked them over and they don't look sick or have lice

Are there any exceptions to the Quarantining?If you buy all of your hens at the same time from the one location and they were all housed together, with no other hens at home in your yard, you will be fine.

So when anybody asks me how I remember all the quarantining steps I explain the DITTO method.

The D.I.T.T.O. Quarantine Method

DistanceKeep the new birds at least 5m away or even more if you have the room. Many diseases are airborne. Fences should never touch. This will mean a second coop/yard with a feeder and water source.

IsolationDo not wear the same clothes/shoes when going from yard to yard. Germs will live in many things. Your boots are the priority as the manure is likely to be a source of contamination.

TimeThe longer you keep the hens separated the better the odds are that someone will show symptoms. Give a two (2) week minimum. Four (4) weeks is optimum for quarantining.

Test SubjectSend in one new chook as a test. This is most applicable to large flocks.

ObservationWatch BOTH the new and old hens for signs of illness.

Coughing

Sneezing

Discharge

Congested breathing

Swelling

Unusual gait (walk)

Discolouration of wattle/comb

Drowsiness

Unusual poos or daggy bottom

Loss of feathers and heavy preening

Tick of Good Health...next is Socialisation

If you are fully satisfied that the girls are all healthy after a few weeks, then its time for socialisation. This is a time spent with you as their guardian.

Step 1. Allow the older hens to walk around the yard of the new hens to greet them through the fence.

Step 2. When their body language signals that they would like to peck together near the fence without running away then you can bring them out for a supervised play. Return the new hens to their yard to minimise their stress. Repeat until you feel that the hens can walk around the yard together.

Step 3. There will be moments of fighting as all chickens have a pecking order. Allow them to find their natural order but break up anything that appears too nasty.

Step 4. Integrate the new hens in with the older hens at night for roosting OR allow the new hens to follow the older hens in and out of their yard until they naturally integrate and sleep together.This may take up to a week. You will know when the girls are ready by watching their socialisation habits and giving them the option to follow the other hens. They may eventually abandon the quarantine coop all together in favour of joining the main coop. Remember to keep your quarantine coop for future illness outbreaks.

When you buy your chickens for the first time it is advisable to buy direct from a stock store or breeder rather than from auction to ensure the healthiest stock and best advice. Knowing the age and history of your hens will help if and when they fall ill, begin or finish their laying and whether they will be appropriate to breed from, if you ever choose to go down that track.

Fodder/Stock stores generally only sell hybrid/sexlink birds such as ISA Brown, Hy-Line and Australorps. Sexing is usually done on day old chicks and therefore less likely to purchase a rooster.

Breeders can range vastly in what stock they can offer. Most breeders will usually sell purebred hens which are slower to mature to point of lay and are a little harder to sex correctly when young. Breeders can be found through poultry magazines, online, by referral, poultry clubs or through poultry show judging.

Breeders

Ask to see the parent chickens and view where their offspring have been housed. Good breeders will happily show your their set up.

Ask how old the hens are (in weeks) and if they are at Point of Lay.

Ask if and when the hens were wormed and/or vaccinated. Good breeders will keep all that on record.

Check if there is a returns or replacement policy. If it is difficult to determine the sex of a bird young, they may turn out to be roosters later on. Clarify this with your breeder before any purchase.

Check if your breeder has a guarantee period. Some breeders allow for up to 2 weeks where the hens can be returned if there are any health problems or defects.

Always hold and inspect each bird. Inspect for lice/mites, defects, nice clean and clear eyes, no sharp bony chest, good legs with no signs of infection. Notice the pen run for any diarrhoea as this could mean a sign of infection.

Be patient for the stock you want as you may have to wait for the next flock to become available. Good breeders will place you on their waiting list.

Fodder/Stock Stores

Ask how old the hens are (in weeks) and if they are at Point of Lay.

Ask if and when the hens were wormed and/or vaccinated.

Check if there is a returns or replacement policy if you accidentally purchase a rooster.

Always hold and inspect each bird. Inspect for lice/mites, defects, nice clean and clear eyes, no sharp bony chest, good legs with no signs of infection. Notice the pen run for any diarrhoea as this could mean a sign of infection.

Be patient as sometimes there may not be any stock in store. Call weekly to confirm if new stock has arrived.

This is not an exhaustive list, so if you know of any other stock/fodder stores throughout Adelaide that stock ISA Brown, HyLine or Australorp chickens for sale, please let me know and I shall add it to the list.

This list is simply for the hybrid or heritage breeds, rather than the purebreds.

Lonsdale Bird and Fodder

Author

You can take the girl out of the country but you can't take the country out of the girl. As an ex-Barossa gal now living in suburban Adelaide, South Australia, Janine Zschech is not only a serious chicken lady but a genuine advocate for self-sufficiency and education of children to the knowledge of gardening and animal rearing. Skills for life!