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JES9900BAB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JES9900BAB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Needed to replace filter

Just placed it at the filter location. Liked the ring feature on the filter for ease of removal for cleaning. My previous ones didn't have such feature. Thank you for filling my order. I bought an extra filter for the future. I'm a big user of my Jenn-Air range. I may soon be needing to replace my griddle. Will be contacting your company then.

Cracked top

Some small spice bottles fell out of the cabinet above the stove and one of them cracked the glass top. The model number of the range was underneath, on the cross member between the right front and rear legs. Took a while to find that.

Replacing the top was relatively easy. Three screws on the left side and three on the right side, two in the back. Three wire harnesses to disconnect and reconnect, but they snapped apart easily and could only connect back one way, so no worries. Each of the four burners was attached to the underneath side of the stove top, held in place with two screws, so it was simple to transfer them from the old top to the new one. I paid attention to "center" each of them within the circular openings in the metal framework underneath the stove top.

When I say screws, they were not philips or slotted, they were actually 1/4 inch hex head lag screws, so you need a hex driver or 1/4 inch socket.

Moving the appliance out of its slot in the counter was the challenging part. It was screwed to the floor with two long screws, one right through the model number label, which fortunately I could still read. The downdraft fan motor was screwed to the floor underneath the range. I hoped not to to move it or disconnect its flexible venting and luckily I didn't have to. I pulled the stove out only five or six inches, and then I lifted it upwards with the prybar and slid a few small 2x4 blocks underneath, raising it just enough to get to the screws that held on the top.

After installing the top, I removed the blocks to lower the stove back down, slid it back into the opening, and put the two long screws back into the floor to hold it in place. Some stoves might not be screwed to the floor. Mine was only because it barely covers the opening in the counter and if it got knocked around even a little bit, it would expose the opening and maybe even risk chipping or cracking the glass top against the ceramic tiles of the counter top.

Took maybe 45 minutes from start to finish. I worked slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the new top, especially while putting the stove back into place.

Old grease filter was bent and needed replacing

I simply lifted off the grille in the center of the stove, pulled out the old filter and dropped the new one in. It sits at an angle (right side down, left side up) rather than slotting in to a particular spot.

F1-1 code

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven rack lost in a garage fire

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

oven door inner glass pane broke

removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

The oven door outer glass was shattered

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

defective oven sensor

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.