User Reviews

Weaknesses: Not too many the Swingarm dents fairly easily and the playes on the side can be annoying to work with.

Bottom Line:

Ok, so this is a great bike for racing, Does everything beautifully, however I found on mine the head angle was wayyy to steep (Mine was one of the first made.) This has been fixed and now are a beautiful bike to ride...Im already looking forward to buying my next real.

Bike Setup: fast! haha um i was runing a 650 pound spring in it and the bike never failed to suck up eny small or large hits.

Overall Rating:

Value Rating:

Submitted by
Charles
a Racer
from Joliette, Quebec, Canada

Date Reviewed: December 6, 2007

Strengths: Hand made in QuebecLow center of gravitySingle pivot with NO chain feedback while pedalingLow height top tube = more knee clearance and better standover heightShorter wheelbase comparing to BalfaSuper Stiff rear derailleur hanger(still not able to bent it yet)Light DH frame

Weaknesses: While bottoming the rear suspension, the saddle tend to toutch to the rear tire making a weard sound (depends of your saddle)The tire rubs occasionally on certain chainguide inner roller bolt (Fitting may be required)The old ISCG standard is used instead of the ISCG 05 for the chainguide mounting bolts10x135 mm rear spacing only (may be part of the little flex)

Bottom Line:

*The similar products used are written from the bike that I most like to ride to up to the worst*

This is not the first Dh bike that I have used but it is the first that most respond to my requirements. Comparing to the older Balfa, shorter wheelbase and the position of the bb on the Real makes it still very stable at high speed but corners a lot more easilly and the bike is a lot more manoeuvrable. This make the bike even faster.

The head hangle is a little bit steeper making the bike more easy to pass through rough technical rocky sections (designed to work with boxxer, becomes slacker with Marzocchi). The Head tube is still very short to keep center of gravity as low as possible.

The top tube beeing very low allows a lot of movements on the bike making it easier to step on and disembark of the bike even on rough and slippery sections and makes more clearance for your knees wken riding. Add to this the position of the rear shock that is near the bb and you have a bike that reacts quickly when changing frequently and rapidly of directions because the wheight transfer is a little bit higher than the hubs.

However, I have noticed a little flex on the rear end while riding over obstacles that are accross the trail like roots witch I did not noticed on the Norco. This is probably due to the swingarm witch is made of cromoly 4130 that is more "flexible" than alu. I did not consider this as a weakness because I prefer a bike that have a little flex that will makes the wheels to stay on the ground than a super stiff frame that will produce little loss of controll while the wheels will not be in contact with the ground.

First of all, I must say that it is Jerome Roy who designed and built the frame. When you are buying an Appalache Real frame you are encouraging a true person. The absorption capability of this frame is outstanding. In rough section it doesn't lose speed. For those who already owned or tried a BB7, it stills maintain its qualities but it is easier to bunny hop. The bike is more manoeuvrable and nimble. At high speeds, it is stable. Jerome has change the design to make it less subject to cracks at the seat post, so I am pretty sure that it will be reliable because of this correction in the design, the 4130 steel swingarm and the overbuilt headtube, downtube and toptube. The suspension performance is at its best with a Double Barrel. You won't have a fit issue with the steel spring but with a Ti you must file the inner corners (only)of the frame. That modification is worth it but can affect the warrenty

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