Hi
The only problem that i can see with the Raceberry chassis is the big motor cut out on one side of the chassis,surely this would cause different flex from side to side,also i can not see any milling out for the dampener body. Also the price 95 Eur plus postage.

Hi brolÝs,
Do you have any problems with the chassis bumper area strength now? Please let me know.
Our first A700 chassis have had the additional holes under the front gearbox but we have removed them later for increasing of the strength.

L and EX chassis have 2.5mm thikness under bumper already.
We don't have now any reports from the customers concerning the breaking of the chassis near the damper.
BD7 and 417 cars also don't have the additional supports for bumper.
Do you think that we have to add such supports for new car?

Hi Oleg

I have trained with a xray driver here in denmark and he make a little crash but the lower deck was broken in the front. I think if it not will be a problem with the awesomatix is it okay without. I have not a problem with that. My car works really good and keep up all the good thinks you make on the car

Hi,Awesoman.
With the dampeners you will find you need the slot in the chassis but the diameter of the barrel part of the dampener with hit the chassis,you will need to raise it about 1mm just like you have to do with the factory 2.25mm chassis,my main problem i see with the Raceberry is the large motor cut out in the chassis,on one side.
Cya

Hi brolÝs,
Do you have any problems with the chassis bumper area strength now? Please let me know.
Our first A700 chassis have had the additional holes under the front gearbox but we have removed them later for increasing of the strength.

L and EX chassis have 2.5mm thikness under bumper already.
We don't have now any reports from the customers concerning the breaking of the chassis near the damper.
BD7 and 417 cars also don't have the additional supports for bumper.
Do you think that we have to add such supports for new car?

The front bumper area of my "L" lower deck failed on it's 1st run. It split and came apart, the cause of the breakage was user error (I crashed). I also owned the original A700 and never had an issue with the lower deck. I've applied CA to fix it, however, it'll split again if I hit a board hard enough.

BTW, I don't CA any of my CF pieces. It's a risk I'm willing to take to ensure that the pieces fit and flex as designed. I'm just sharing my experience, nothing more.. nothing less.

FWIW I made a 1.9mm baseplate a short while ago, no big cut outs and symmetrical flex. It came out really nice. I shimmed the drivetrain +3mm (2mm over std) to straighten out the driveshafts, and cut off the 5th leg of the bulkheads. Car has been quite consistent and easier to drive but so far no faster over a single lap. And of course I don't know if that's due to the baseplate or the raised drivetrain. But I have still some way to go before I have an outdoor setup for modified with which I am truly confident. Just wanted symmetrical flex to help my OCD about these things, but can't say either way if its better. Nothing wrong with the original plate. Think I'm gonna make a belt conversion for fun to see what its like