Just 30 minutes
northeast of Mazatlán, a deserted agave ranchhouse
and tequila distillery has been transformed into a tasteful,
tranquil guest ranch. The 3,000-acre ranch is a refuge
for both humans and animals, from miniature horses to
exotic pure-white peacocks. A small white chapel sits
atop a slight ridge overlooking the property, with the
Sierra Madres rising in the background. The original stables,
hacienda, and tequila-factory buildings have been completely
renovated with attention to detail, and several new casitas
are filled with classic Mexican touches. To honNor the
privacy of their guests, drop-in visits are not allowed,
but tour groups and individuals may visit for lunch and
a horseback ride, with advance reservations.

The ranch is a peaceful, completely secluded hideaway
with accommodations that make you feel like you're staying
in a luxurious private home. The 11 casitas have air-conditioning
and fans, kitchens and bathrooms tiled in bright yellows
and blues, upholstered equipal chairs and couches in
the living rooms, and carved wooden armoires and dressers
in the bedrooms. Each
casita has a large porch, where guinea hens tend to
roost in the window boxes among blooming flowers. The
chef prepares superb regional Mexican cuisine with breads
baked daily in a wood-burning beehive oven. Guests are
welcome to ride the horses up the mountain foothills
and into towns that still lack automobiles and electricity.
There's a pool and tennis courts, and plenty of space
to roam in complete solitude.

Just 2 hours
south of Mazatlán (82 miles) is the fishing village
of Teacapán, located at the tip of an isolated
peninsula that extends 18 miles down a coastline of
pristine beaches. Mangrove lagoons and canals border
its other side. Palm and mango groves, cattle ranches,
and an occasional cluster of houses dot the peninsula,
which ends at the Boca de Teacapán, a natural
marina separating the states of Sinaloa and Nayarit.
Shrimping boats line the beach at the edge of the marina,
which is backed by the worn houses and dirt streets
of town. A ragged place, its recommended for those interested
in birding, but probably not of much interest to other
travelers.

Bird-watchers
hire local fishermen to take them out around the lagoons,
where they can see herons, flamingos, Canadian ducks,
and countless other species of birds. Inland, the sparsely
populated land is a haven for deer, ocelot, and wild
boars. There's talk of making the entire peninsula into
an ecological preserve, and thus far, residents have
resisted attempts by developers to turn the area into
a large-scale resort. For now, visitors are treated
to the ultimate peaceful refuge.

Getting There--By
Car--To reach Teacapán, drive south from Mazatlán
on the
highway to Escuinapa. There are no signs marking the
right turn for the road to Teacapán; ask for
directions in Escuinapa. If you're arriving from the
south, turn left at the Bancomer building.

By Bus--Autotransportes
Escuinapa has several second-class buses daily to Escuinapa;
from there you can transfer to Teacapán. The
second-class bus station is located directly behind
the first-class station across the lot where the buses
park.

Dr. Ernesto
Rivera Gúzman and his sons have created this
small resort amid coconut groves at the edge of the
sea. The best rooms are in the hacienda-style building,
with terraces and a pool beside a long beach, or in
the single rustic bungalow, a few feet from the main
building. Other rooms are in a motel-like structure
beside the main road to town, and are not recommended,
if you have a choice-they are small, noisy, and oddly
furnished. There are newer cabins on the beach and a
trailer park for 40 trailers. Boat tours and horseback
riding are available. The hotel's small restaurant serves
meals on the patio by the pool.

The colonial
town of Concordia, a short distance off of the Durango
highway (Mexico 40), is a side trip on the Copala tour
route. Concordia is a town of furniture makers which
sell their wares in small stands on the way into town.

Concordia
also offers an abundance of locally made pottery in
the pre-Columbian motif. There is an old style town
square, built in front of the church, which is a great
place for photos of the family. The church, is over
350 years old making it the oldest in the state of Sinaloa.
This area produces a lot of Mangos which are for sale
everywhere along the road, and they are delicious. If
you are on a tour you will probably be taken to the
nearby mineral springs where the local women do their
laundry, just as they have been doing for many generations.

El Rosario,
a small town about 50 miles south of Mazatlán,
is famous for the altar in the town church which is
said to be worth over a million dollars. The alter alone
makes a visit to El Rosario worth the drive. El Rosario
was once the richest town in Northwest Mexico because
of the local mining operations. This small town was
the home of the famous Mexican singer, Lola Beltrán.
They have built a small museum in her honor although
the museum is open only sporadically. You might want
to do a little shopping for pottery, furniture or leather
products, all of which are produced locally.

The little
mountain village of La Noria is just 40 minutes northeast
of Mazatlán-- and well worth a visit. Nestled
into its own little corner of the world, "La Noria,"
which means "The Well," is named for the shape
it takes; entering the town means descending into a
bowl-shaped area, giving the appearance of a town set
in a well. Highlights include an old jail, which is
still in use, the church of San Antonio, and a variety
of locally-made leather goods. Since it is not uncommon
to see a cowboy ride up to the local supermarket on
horseback, it is fitting that the leather shops specialize
in saddles, which are sold all over Sinaloa. You can
watch these and other leather goods being made right
in the shops, including must-buy huaraches with their
ever-lasting rubber tire soles. To get to La Noria by
car, take Highway 15 north out of Mazatlán. You'll
pass the toll (cuota) road to Culiacan and eventually
see a sign on the right side directing you to La Noria.
Following the sign, turn right (or east) and follow
the road that will take you right into the town.

Thirty-three
kilometers northeast of Mazatlan, visitors leave behind
the sun and sand attractions of one of Mexico's most
popular destinations to step into a fine example of
rural or agricultural tourism. Such vacation experiences
are increasingly in demand around the world by travelers
who want to learn how others work and live.