If people are what they eat, then nations are what is eaten in them. For countries, food is a statement of culture and identity. It's why the French invented terroir  food and drink as an expression of the land  and why American lawmakers, ticked off at the French during the Iraq invasion, invented "freedom fries."

Judged by its food, then, what is the U.S.? To look at our food TV  a mixed-message buffet of indulgence and shame  it's a binge-and-purger. One batch of shows is saturated with fat: Paula Deen cooking "fried butter balls," Adam Richman downing...