if you are getting 53mpg Its unlikely to be the intecooler hoses leaking/ loosing boost pressure, you would loose economy and performance if you loose boost , unless it was somehow an intermittent problem (again unlikely)

There are advantages in blanking the EGR on these engines, fitting a solid stainless steel blanking plate often helps the throttle response/ eliminates flat spots so its worth doing,

if you are getting 53mpg Its unlikely to be the intecooler hoses leaking/ loosing boost pressure, you would loose economy and performance if you loose boost , unless it was somehow an intermittent problem (again unlikely)

There are advantages in blanking the EGR on these engines, fitting a solid stainless steel blanking plate often helps the throttle response/ eliminates flat spots so its worth doing,

Hiya,

I suspect the DMF isn't quite right btw - but hopefully it'll be stable now my car has a proper driver I'm just trying to limit the symptoms and extend the life of it obviously. EGR may well be an option then if only to exclude it as the cause!

The dealer effectively washed his hands of it having said 'it drives great' (it does, except as described). Anyway, it doesn't matter since the condition it came back in means the car will be going nowhere near his premises, or that of his 'experts' ever again.

Anyway, 3 months on and the car is pretty much the same. It hasn't got worse, and I can almost drive around it anyway - but its still pretty annoying.

I've blanked the EGR, and as stated above the MPG is still good. The symptoms have changed slightly.

1500-1600RPM there is a shudder, almost to the point of a judder/multiple misses, and it appears to have somewhat of an effect on power. This is hard to be certain on though, as I've said, generally its when the car is pulling in a high gear, and as such acceleration is not great anyway!

Between 2000-2200RPM there is a secondary finer vibration - almost like a very specific wheel balancing issue or a drive shaft wobble.

Over the past 3ish months I've researched bits and pieces but not got any further forward.

Also while changing a headlight, I removed both light clusters and had a look at what pipework I could see. The intercooler pipe from the intercool left side to the front of engine was solid, but had wet oil/grease around the engine end. It seemed solid enough - but could this be an issue (from above, it seems not related anyway I guess)

Now the EGR is blanked, and based on the information gathered in this thread, I'm thinking injector fault or turbo failure - but at 50k the latter seems unlikely.

I'm unlikely to fix an injector until it fails completely, but would be interested in any further views.

Do yourself a favour get the injectors tested properly and if you got 1 thats on its way get it replaced with a proper ford o/e cos i thought the same as you ' i'll wait for it to go kapuut before i change it' because i waited it threw the other 3 out cos they were trying to compesate for 1 bad boy and as you are not sure how your car was treated before you had it eventually theothers will give up and fail cost £900 for injectors £300 to have um put in coded,checked and sorted now she runs like a new car, while your at it do the glow plugs aswell, so if i was you knowing wot i know now i would get em checked if you got a bad 1 change it it'll work out a lot cheaper,

I would venture that its a transmission issue, and that you need to change the oil, if you haven't done that. My car had even worse than a shudder. The tranny was changing gears randomly between gears, upshifting upon reaching 2k, then when it felt that there was load, then it would downshift. Manual recommends replacement at 60k but these symptoms manifested at 55k . So I gave specific instructions to the dealer to the ff:

BTW, car did over 400 miles yesterday happy as owt. As long as you keep out of the dodgy zone, the worst you experience is a small vibration. Thats why I'm really not gonna be paying out loads to diag it at this stage!