I'll be joining the owner's group in a few hours! Just went to my local specialty store and laid down the AMEX on a 57733!

I poured over all the threads for the last few weeks, over the Mits website, Vann's, Crutchfield, Walt's, and so on, and compared all the major brands.

I was initally thinking between an 833, Sam 5689S, and a 55A3000, but everyone I talked to kept reinforcing the quality of the Mits.

I think the only reason I was thinking those was because of the snowball effect where "Well, this one has just one more feature than the other one, and this one more, and..."

...so, I decided to talk to my local guy who's been in the car stereo/tv business ever since I can remember, and looked at the one that started this ball rolling in the first place: the 57733.

I said I wanted to keep my money local, and keep food on my neighbor's tables, but still have enough left over for a matching stand. He asked what price I'd found from a reputable, authorized dealer, and he matched it, but said, "No offense, but for this price, we'll do exactly what they'd do--we'll drop it off in your living room, and let you set it up."

ANyone having a problem with random signal loss when watching a movie or something off dvd player through tv or receiver? I was watching a movie last night dvd player connected to tv through hdmi and the tv said, no signal and then turned itself off few minutes later. I am confused about this. Is there a way to change a setting so the tv is trying to detect inputs to see if it should turn off? I was watching a movie connected hdmi directly to the tv how would it not sense the input?

Well, so far I don't regret my purchase, which is really unusual for me. I'm great at regreting things before I've even left the store.

I really think this was the model for me. Right price, right features. I can't handle too many adjustable things, because if they're there, I'm gonna constantly screw with them until I completely mess the set up.

I will probably leave the color settings on default for a while. Sits well in my brain that way!

ANyone having a problem with random signal loss when watching a movie or something off dvd player through tv or receiver? I was watching a movie last night dvd player connected to tv through hdmi and the tv said, no signal and then turned itself off few minutes later. I am confused about this. Is there a way to change a setting so the tv is trying to detect inputs to see if it should turn off? I was watching a movie connected hdmi directly to the tv how would it not sense the input?

It could be your HDMI cable. Mine did this tonight. I was watching HDTV via the cable box and decided to fire up the Sammy upconverting DVD player to watch "The Good German". As soon as I did I saw some random pixels, then it froze, then it said no signal. I then proceeded to swap the HDMI cables (from cable box to DVD player, back and forth) multiple times to see if it was the HDMI cable. I think the HDMI cable could be bad but I jacked with all of it so long I dunno anymore. After I swapped the cables around a few times the PQ got a little grainy with any source. I'm at a loss now on what to do and I'm calling up the store where I purchased to get a new set before the 30 days are up.

I finally took the jump to HD with the 65733. My neighbor informed me of a deal at RCWilley on these sets for $1699. After comparing with the Toshiba 65HM167, sitting next to it for the same price...I took the Mits because of the six color wheel.

And the six color wheel is now whining in my living room, which is carpeted.

I helped my neighbor set his set up last week, and remember being blown away and not noticing the noise. Today I went next door ot put my ear up against his set and didn't hear a darn thing. We muted the volume, and after a minute I could hear the buzz on his set. Barely...hear the buzz...and it was actually a buzz.

My set is more high pitched and a hell of a lot louder. Obviously there is something mechanically different on my set. Luckily RCWilley is contracted with a local tech to come out and take a look at the set. I'll slap him if he says its normal...then walk him next door to listen to the quieter set and slap him again. We'll see what happens.

I also spent a heck of a lot of time with the geometery settings...and can't get it perfect, but can improve it greatly. Still a few problems, especially with the vertical 4:3 adjustment. I wish the three adjustment points in the middle of the horizontal edges moved left/right and the same middle three on the vertical edges moved up/down. That would help fix the few geometric errors left.

As for color settings, I've been going back and forth on adjustments for a long time. I'm getting close on my component DVD player...but am having a hell of a time with my s-video out from my receiver. I'm tweaking the colors every ten or fifteen minutes. I do not yet have a high def disc player yet (waiting for the format war to end).

Overall...I think I CAN be extremely happy with this purchase, if I can get the humming to stop, but I can understand the dramatic drop in price on these things. With my luck...after all the geometery and color setting changes, I'll have to end up exchanging the unit. Oh well...will post an update on what the tech says tomorrow.

In the "I can't F-ing believe it" category: My tech is supposed to be here quite soon. So I went into the living room and popped on the tube. The extremely annoying high pitch whine has now been replaced by a slightly less annoying buzz sound. Still, the sound is louder than my neighbor's television, but I just can't believe it.

With my luck the sound will immediately return after the tech leaves. Hopefully, like someone else who had the same damn problem, he'll look at my set up and see I'm not a complete moron and help me out.

Great news...had a wonderful tech visit today. He immediately heard the problem and set about diagonising. The source? A bad Ballast...the device that controls the current flowing to the light engine. He took off the panel and listened to the thing power up and down, and isolated the sound coming from the right rear side, where the ballast is located.

Surprisingly, he said this has NOT come up before on these units and there are no flags on the Mits service site and hasn't even been discussed as a potential problem. The part is ordered and we should be good to go in a week, maybe two.

What he did say was a problem is people messing with the service controls for the color wheel timing. All the master controls in the service menu for color are not intensity adjustments, but color timing adjustment...telling the computer when and how long to look on the color wheel. He says once adjusted, it cannot be adjusted back exactly.

He did say the color wheel is a bit noisy because of the six colors, there is less space on the wheel and so it has to spin faster to time the color correctly. But the hum or frequency should NOT be the color wheel but the power ballast.

Of interest he laughed when I talked to him about the geometery settings. He said they were really arbitrary, basically, because he went over and just pressed back on the top left of the corner and it totally changed the geometery. Then he put the manual underneath the base and the different level adjusted the geometery adjusted again!

Basically, because the television is a big hollow box with light bouncing around inside, the adjustments can shift based on where and how the TV is sitting. Of interest, once he put the ballast and the lamp back in, the vertical was way off on the set.

I guess the bottom line on geometery is that I shouldn't be so concerned about any adjustments until the set is level on both the horizontal and vertical. Try that first, guys.

In addition, he said that adjusting the energy mode, or even the Brilliant, Bright, Natural settings will do absolutely nothing to enhance bulb life. Not sure if I believe that or not.

Now got some geometry issues to take care of. Prior posts state how to get into service menu and adjust keystone manually. Anyone know where the plus sign goes? Do you aim it with the center of the cross on the bezel, the edges of the horizontal and vertical lines on the bezel, or with the cross on the outer white line border?

Yeah...I'll admit this wasn't clear for me initially either. You line the center of the 'X' on the edge of the screen so part of the 'X' is hidden benind the bezel. That way the point is right on the edge of the screen.

It should be noted this geometry adjustment is really just a change on how the computer inside calculates where the edge of the screen and is not a physical adjustment. On these new models, there is apparently no way to make physical adjustements to the bulb, color wheel, or mirrors. Everything is either a calculation or timing change in the computer.

But there is a question in the 833 thread that the geometry change could result in some artifacting or 'ghosting'.

Can anyone post a picture of their original keystone geometry settings as well as the other service mode settings from the factory?

Thanks. I got my white border edges now perfectly parallel with the bezel, and the 4:3 lines really straight. Had to do it little by little until it was perfect, but it still didn't seem to take the bowing out of the banners (like guide channel) on the top of the screen. I'm figuring it's just the box and mirrors now, and I'm NOT going inside!

Now got some geometry issues to take care of. Prior posts state how to get into service menu and adjust keystone manually. Anyone know where the plus sign goes? Do you aim it with the center of the cross on the bezel, the edges of the horizontal and vertical lines on the bezel, or with the cross on the outer white line border?

This is confusing.

Yeah, tell me about it. I spent some time playing with it and somehow got it perfect. I have no bowing in the gray bars at all, whereas before I "played" they were terribly bowed. I just kept moving the plus signs and hit enter till I got it right. If it wasnt right, I tried again.

Yes , you will get into the service menu by just using 'menu' then '2-4-5-7. By entering '0' you will arrive at the 'Manual Keystone Geometry Alignment' . This will be the third selection down on the list of adjustments. . Press the buttons 2, 4, 5, 7, pause and then press 0 (Data Selection Mode will appear)
Make your adj as indicated in the above post.

I have a 73833 and am trying to fix some geometry issues. I have gone through the
procedure listed but nothing seems to change! I can not get the letter box bars to move at all. Is there some difference with the 833? Can the options get locked somehow? . . . I am at a loss. I can move the 16 points but cannot effect a change.
I can not move the letter box lines at all. Help!

I have a 73833 and am trying to fix some geometry issues. I have gone through the
procedure listed but nothing seems to change! I can not get the letter box bars to move at all. Is there some difference with the 833? Can the options get locked somehow? . . . I am at a loss. I can move the 16 points but cannot effect a change.
I can not move the letter box lines at all. Help!

you move the + around to where you want it and push enter, you keep doing this to you have the lines(the 16 points) set the way you want

you move the + around to where you want it and push enter, you keep doing this to you have the lines(the 16 points) set the way you want

You can press INFO button (recalculates geometry) after moving the cross to see the changes immediately.
Did anyone figure out how to make the bowing adjustment? I have horizontal lines that bows up a bit on the edges. The keystone adjustment does not seem to affect it.

Anyone else a bit annoyed with the crushed blues on this set? I just watched TROY: THE DIRECTOR'S CUT and the blue/cyan level could just not be adjusted properly. Even on natural, the blues were way pushed out.

You can press INFO button (recalculates geometry) after moving the cross to see the changes immediately.
Did anyone figure out how to make the bowing adjustment? I have horizontal lines that bows up a bit on the edges. The keystone adjustment does not seem to affect it.

It appears that none of this geometry adjustment works with a 1080P source.
The keystone stuff must be part of the upsampling process or some such thing.
Any thoughts?

Yes, the geometry correction is done in the scaler. I have not tried it with a 1080p source, but if the set maps pixels 1:1, it might bypass the scaler. This would be a much preferable option to me than this type of correction, which will inherently have artifacts. If you put the set on a solid, flat surface, and the screens are not displaced, the geometric anomolies are likely going to be less obvious in actual video than the artifacts from the geometric fiddling.

Mitsubishi REFUSED to allow the tech to replace the ballast. They said the noise was normal...unbelievable.

I had to call Mitsubishi and be a a**hole to get transferred to level two support. They wanted me to wait for a call back over the next few days, and I told them I was either going to talk to level two support or return the product. Funny thing, she transferred me after I told her my neighbor has the EXACT same television with no sound problem AND I can hear it down the hall and in another room.

Yes, the geometry correction is done in the scaler. I have not tried it with a 1080p source, but if the set maps pixels 1:1, it might bypass the scaler. This would be a much preferable option to me than this type of correction, which will inherently have artifacts. If you put the set on a solid, flat surface, and the screens are not displaced, the geometric anomolies are likely going to be less obvious in actual video than the artifacts from the geometric fiddling.

Also, if you are on an input named PC or GAME the correction is disabled.

Just got off the phone with RCWilley, where I bought the TV, and they said they would contact their buyers and let them know about the problem (because that could influence their purchasing of these sets and future Mits products)...but also be in contact with their Mitsubishi representative (who was just at the store) about who to contact to get this part replace. RCWilley ROCKS! (Thanks Sue!)

This just seems to be a continuation of the extremely poor customer service problems that other people have had with Mitsubishi. It sure doesn't make me want to hold on to the set much longer...but RCWilley says since they have an open ticket on this problem, I will not have a problem replacing or returning the set if I cannot get this problem resolved with Mitsubishi.

By the way...I'm still on hold waiting for level two support from Mitsubishi.

Mitsubishi REFUSED to allow the tech to replace the ballast. They said the noise was normal...unbelievable.

I had to call Mitsubishi and be a a**hole to get transferred to level two support. They wanted me to wait for a call back over the next few days, and I told them I was either going to talk to level two support or return the product. Funny thing, she transferred me after I told her my neighbor has the EXACT same television with no sound problem AND I can hear it down the hall and in another room.

I'm now on hold waiting for level two.

I can't believe they are stilling pulling this crap 3 years later... don't worry, "level 2" will never call back... they never do.

Yes, the geometry correction is done in the scaler. I have not tried it with a 1080p source, but if the set maps pixels 1:1, it might bypass the scaler. This would be a much preferable option to me than this type of correction, which will inherently have artifacts. If you put the set on a solid, flat surface, and the screens are not displaced, the geometric anomolies are likely going to be less obvious in actual video than the artifacts from the geometric fiddling.

so let me get this straight... they are manipulating the signal to compensate for mechanical geometry issues? wow... rather than improving quality control and making a more rigid set, they rely on altering the signal to make people think that the geometry is ok?

Yes, the geometry correction is done in the scaler. I have not tried it with a 1080p source, but if the set maps pixels 1:1, it might bypass the scaler. This would be a much preferable option to me than this type of correction, which will inherently have artifacts. If you put the set on a solid, flat surface, and the screens are not displaced, the geometric anomolies are likely going to be less obvious in actual video than the artifacts from the geometric fiddling.

I have not hung my screen from the ceiling! The issue here I guess is whether the 833 can accurately produce a picture! The notion that less obvious is good is less than satisfiying! Do all DLP/rear projection sets have this fault? What about the Sony
XBR2 70? Would the geometry be less distorted on the 65 inch . . . I could give up the
8 inches for a better picture.