I bought my 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport (D30/D35) almost a year ago.. the previous owner lifted it 4inches + 2inch body lift (6inch total) and put 33's on it, but did nothing else ... since then I have added a Smittybilt XRC front and rear bumper w/ tire carrier and their XRC winch.. and some wetolky seat covers.

Now I'm ready to move on to 35inch tires... I think... and I want to do it right... I've been looking around and found a bunch of parts and the general direction I want to go... So I'll first start off with that list:

A couple of notes:
-I much rather have the simplicity of the e-locker despite the 2 pin vs 4 pin for the Dana44 ... and it is ~600 bucks cheaper then the ARB equivalent
-I plan on using the wheels I currently have*
-I also priced out just going with a super 35 and super 30 kit w/ lockers and so forth... price difference was minimal (esp considering the labor saved assembling

With all said and done with labor ... I'm looking at about 10k invested in my TJ... a bunch of dough... I want to have all my ducks in a row...

That's a good start. I would get rid of that 2" body lift and go down to a 1". You don't really need a D44 up front. Your Dana 30 will handle 35s just fine. I would also look at upgrading your front brakes. At the very least go with Centric Premium rotors and black magic brake pads, or ideally go with the Vanco big brake upgrade kit. This allows you to run 48mm dual piston calipers from a Ford Explorer Sport Trac. I like my D44 Elocker. Works great and haven't had any issues with it for several years now.

EDIT:

Also, for 35s and the 5 speed NV3550, 4.88 gear is ideal for daily driving! I have the NV3550 and 35" tires with 4.88s and it is the perfect match.

I wouldn't run anything other than arms that have Currie Johnny Joints or Metalcloak Duroflex bushings at the ends. Anything else just doesn't last. I'm in the process of replacing my Rubicon Express control arms with arms that have Johnny Joints at both ends (gold standard of control arm ends). Rokmen, Savvy, and Currie all sell control arms with Johnny Joint ends. Metal Cloak sells their own arms. The Metal Cloaks are relatively new, so they aren't as "time proven" as the Johnny Joints, but so far no one has said anything bad about them.

If you are going to consider the Duroflex bushings, here is a good thread on them:

I wouldn't run anything other than arms that have Currie Johnny Joints or Metalcloak Duroflex bushings at the ends. Anything else just doesn't last. I'm in the process of replacing my Rubicon Express control arms with arms that have Johnny Joints at both ends (gold standard of control arm ends). Rokmen, Savvy, and Currie all sell control arms with Johnny Joint ends. Metal Cloak sells their own arms. The Metal Cloaks are relatively new, so they aren't as "time proven" as the Johnny Joints, but so far no one has said anything bad about them.

If you are going to consider the Duroflex bushings, here is a good thread on them:

I've looked into that and it's nearly a wash after you add in all the parts the g2 comes with ( front d44 w/ e-locker is 2500)

A hpd30 from an xj is free or cheap. Your choice of locker, and you are good to go. An 8.8 can be had for $100, with disks and an LSD. Throw a locker in if you like and you're good to go. Total swap costs for the front $0-$100, total for the rear $800 give or take.

Even if you add arbs or ox's and gears you are still less than half of two g2's

A hpd30 from an xj is free or cheap. Your choice of locker, and you are good to go. An 8.8 can be had for $100, with disks and an LSD. Throw a locker in if you like and you're good to go. Total swap costs for the front $0-$100, total for the rear $800 give or take.

Even if you add arbs or ox's and gears you are still less than half of two g2's

then add in the labor to get it all done..

I hear where you are coming from, but I'd rather get something complete from the get go and not deal with the hassle of piecing things together myself