It was only a few years ago that I discovered that I have a classic case of ADHD. All the symptoms listed on webmd.com were clear to me. From being easily distracted, to not listening to others, obsessing over a new hobby or interest to the exclusion of everything else and the ever popular compulsive behavior which has resulted in being fired from a job that I liked to getting traffic tickets. Let me briefly describe my current obsession. Climbing.

A week after my 60th birthday, I went to a climbing gym with my son in-law. At the counter was a 20 something guy, thin to the point of looking like Ric Ocasek of the Cars band with really long black hair tied in a pony tail. “Hey, it’s cool you’re taking your Dad climbing with you.” I imagined what his comb over would look like in 20 years and smiled. “It was my idea,” I said. After a lifetime of being a competitive runner, my ankles and knees suggested I try another sport.

Diablo Rock is the local gym where I go and is managed by the great climber Hans Florin. His name was familiar to me because I got together with my cousin Dave Altman, a noted Bay Area climber and the names would roll off his tongue-Ray Jardine, Ron Kauc and Hans. It’s a large, warehousy looking place that I’ve come to really enjoy.

All climbing gyms have the same smell. It’s a combination of climbing chalk, sweaty clothes and the young. In American shopping malls, it’s the fat people that are in the majority. In a climbing gym, it’s the opposite, the fat being relegated to watching or in rare cases, belaying their energetic 8 year olds up a 5.5 wall.

I am 8 months into my Gumby year. In that time, I’ve bought 5 pairs of climbing shoes, hoping to find that perfect pair that doesn’t feel like a vise is clamped on my foot and allows me to use the footholds on an overhanging boulder problem. I have plenty of climbing tee shirts and pants. My thick overpriced cotton climbing shorts are my favorite attire. I ’ve bought a type of shoe that I have never heard of called “approach shoes.” Those and flip flops are the non-climbing footwear of choice. I wear my approach shoes and Patagonia climbing pants to work without irony and flip flops everywhere else.

The obsession got worse. Soon after starting, I was watching climbing videos on youtube. Chris Sharma, Hans of course, Akio Noguchi and the young phenom, Ashima Shiraishi, a 14 year old who climbs routes few others can while blowing bubble gum bubbles and giggling. I also discover the so called underground writing scene. Brenden Leonard, Luke Mehall and the other denizens of the climbing zine. For “fun” on road trips for work, I listen to Chris Koulous’ Enormocasts in the car. Yes-I have a disease.

Unless Hans is in the gym, I am at least 25 years older than any of the other climbers. It’s not an issue because the other climbers ignore me for the most part. On the odd occasion, I am noticed, it can be a thrill. About 4 months into my Gumby year, my son in-law did a top roped 5.10b that had an overhang. We finished it (called “sending” in climber speak) and were standing around when one of the uber climbers-shorts, no shirt, long Fabio like hair comes up to us and says-“hey, I was watching you guys and your footwork was really good.” Man, I floated out of the gym that night. Silly when you think about it.

It hasn’t been all indoors this first year of climbing. I discovered some boulders in nearby Vacaville and the son in-law went out there with a guidebook. So far I’ve been there 5 times, 3 with him, twice by myself. Then I went to a small crag in Berkeley with my cousin Dave Altman and received a lecture on anchors for 45 minutes (some of which I remember, I think) and then I went up a couple of 5.8’s which were harder and much more fun than the 5.10’s in the gym.

Yes, it’s true, I’m not an authentic climber. I have never placed a cam in a crack or even sport climbed. And while it’s no shame in being a gumby, I’m trying hard not to be a poser. So, if you see my gray haired skinny assed self at the Diablo Rock Gym, try not to laugh as I struggle up a 10c or 11a. Thanks.

My grandson Gavin is 4, likes to run, laugh and collect Thomas the Train toys. His father is my climbing partner. So, we decided one Saturday to go out to the Castle Rock area of Mt. Diablo to check out the climbing. The crags were closed due to the government protecting some type of plant, so we did some bouldering. AND, the little guy did just great! Fun day.

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]]>https://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/08/08/introducing-my-grandson-to-an-outdoor-life/feed/0jwmatneycastlerockReview-La Sportiva Finalehttps://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/05/17/review-la-sportiva-finale/
https://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/05/17/review-la-sportiva-finale/#respondTue, 17 May 2016 16:37:42 +0000http://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/?p=35Read More]]>My first pair of climbing shoes was the Mythos and they’ve been great overall, especially outdoors. I’ve only been climbing for 6 months, but as I’ve progressed, I found the Mythos just weren’t working well on the small plastic footholds in the gym. So, back to the REI, I went, trying on a bunch of shoes. I think for my foot, lace ups are the best because of my high arch and narrow foot, I can adjust the fit for the length of the shoe. The leather also conformed to my foot after a couple of uses and the edging and toe holds improved a lot. For comfort, I can wear these for a couple of hours before I want to take them off. While these won’t be the ultimate performer on overhangs that the Genius or other high performance shoes are, at less than $100.00, these are a good compromise that won’t break the bank.

This past weekend, I celebrated my 6 months as a beginning climber by bouldering with my son in-law. Yes, it’s true that when I wasn’t flailing on the V2’s, I was happily obtaining pulley injuries on my fingers. I was able to perform a backstep, jammed my fingers in the cracks I saw and even mantled! Yes, I told myself, I was not a Gumby. At least not out here.

In the gym, it’s a different story. Watching the experienced climbers smoothly lead 5.11c’s is intimidating, especially when I struggle to finish a 5.10b and positively flail at a 10c. And trying to a sitting start when I boulder is as likely a failure as the possibility of my playing in the NBA. So, being a basic incompetent beginner, what could I do to avoid being ridiculed? Here’s what I came up with:

1) I never offer beta, to anyone. You need to know where the bathroom is, you’re on your own.

2) Watch, but never stare at the good climbers, especially if they’re wearing Lululemon pants.

3) Before going inside the gym, I sprinkle some chalk on my pant legs.

4) If I catch anyone looking my way, I give them a nod.

5) To avoid looking like a poser, I don’t wear anything made by Prana or Diablo Rock Climbing gym tee shirts. Instead, I wear work pants and tee shirts from Vancouver and east coast breweries.

6) I utilize the T-rex arm look at all times, even when opening the trunk of my car or telling someone how to get to the Safeway.

In every sport, there is a learning curve, some longer than others. I’ve discovered that for most people, the learning curve in climbing is a 5.15 while learning to lift weights and shop at the GNC is a 5.6. I ran on my first track team in the 6th grade and have raced every year since then. What started as a 880 yard race has evolved to a 50K. We “runners” would make fun of joggers as they waddled around the track. I grew up and stopped doing that and learned to respect people who have chosen to live outdoors and break a sweat. I hope that the “good” climbers feel the same way when they see me flail and fall off a 5.10c.

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]]>https://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/05/16/im-not-a-gumby-really/feed/0jwmatneygumby-lgMeru-Best Climbing Movie of 2015https://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/meru-best-climbing-movie-of-2015/
https://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/meru-best-climbing-movie-of-2015/#respondThu, 10 Mar 2016 16:50:34 +0000http://livingoutsideblog.wordpress.com/?p=17Recently, I watched a stunningly good movie called Meru that was made by Jimmy Chin and his wife, the Director, Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi. I strongly encourage all outdoor people to see this great movie. The photo here is one made by Jimmy Chin of Meru and shows the Sharks Tooth, a monsterous crux pitch.

This is the Kanji symbol for mountain. I am of the mountain. I live at the base of a mountain (Mt. Diablo in Northern California), I run on the mountains, I hike in the mountains and recently, I began my journey to climb in the mountains.

Prior to my 60th birthday in November 2015, I decided that I wanted to join a climbing gym, take some lessons and start climbing. I talked my son in-law into joining me on this quest. So we joined the Touchstone gym in our area, took some beginner lessons and went to the gym 2-3 times a week.

At the gym, I was always the oldest climber. Not that I cared, being around 20 somethings is energizing. My early 30 year old son in-law and I climbed the same level. Starting with 5.8 the first day, going to 5.9’s for the next couple of sessions and then by the end of the first month we were using 5.9’s for warm-ups before doing 5.10a’s and b’s with the rare attempt at a c.

I’m not so dumb that I think I am a good climber. I haven’t led anything, have issues with the 5.10c’s and haven’t even tried a 5.11 yet. Still, I have noticed some positive changes. First, my focus has improved while I’m on the wall. Second, I’m not scared of falling off the gym wall, I’ve done it, regrouped and kept on climbing. I’ve also discovered that I feel at home being around the climbers.

I started this blog to chronicle my journey with the climbing community. I hope to add photos and videos showing my progress. I’m hoping to do this without being a total goober at the gym. Finally, I’m hoping that I’m not just writing this for an audience of one, but if that’s the case, so be it. I can live with that too.