The Chevron Delo 400 15w40 is some fine oil... really good for off road engine use.

I've ran Chevron/Texaco/Havoline oil with great sucess for years.
I have engines I run the 10w30 in and engines I run the 15w40 in.
No oil/wear related failures with either grade, but the 15w40 is a bit tougher and better.

Not sure about your Honda engine though.
Don't have one of those big twins.
What are ALL the grade recommendations in the manual?

ENVY

​

"If you place a low value upon yourself, rest assured..... the world will not raise your price."​

"The bitterness of poor quality lingers on long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten"​

I run ONLY synthetic blend OR pure synthetic, if it doesn't say synthetic blend OR full synthetic on the bottle, I don't run it.
From now until end of month (I think) Advance Auto Parts has a special ON:
6 quarts of Pennzoil FULL Synthetic 5w-30 *OR*
6 quarts of Quaker State FULL Synthetic 10w-30
(or a combination but 6 quart limit).
$2.08 each (normal price for FULL synth is near $5/each).
Only thing is, it involves a $15 mail-in rebate so it does cost a bit at the register and you spend 10 minutes and a stamp + envelope plus a few weeks to get your rebate.
Still, I did it, got my 6 qt's

One day, when I have an engine I no longer need because it's so old and I have no other use for it, I want to REALLY test this out:

(Consider now, all I ever run is synth.blend or full.synth {thou 95% blend})
...
I want to drain all the oil out, then run it WOT for 20 minutes straight JUST to see for real / for real if synth.blend is really as good as I honestly think it is (to be honest, I believe the motor will hold up).

One day, when I have an engine I no longer need because it's so old and I have no other use for it, I want to REALLY test this out:

(Consider now, all I ever run is synth.blend or full.synth {thou 95% blend})
...
I want to drain all the oil out, then run it WOT for 20 minutes straight JUST to see for real / for real if synth.blend is really as good as I honestly think it is (to be honest, I believe the motor will hold up).

Click to expand...

Well you are in left field and out of character on this one.

I had you totally figured for the guy who would say save the extra $4 per qt and put it in the piggy bank for a new engine. I pulled this on my Opti-4/Opti-2 dealer. The 2 cycle stuff is good and reasonably priced. The Opti-4 is not... even though they will double your engine warranty for oil related stuff. It's cheaper to buy a new engine than pay for that stuff for 4 years.

Anyways, try your engine trick.
You could knock the zero off that time and I still doubt it would make it.

ENVY

​

"If you place a low value upon yourself, rest assured..... the world will not raise your price."​

"The bitterness of poor quality lingers on long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten"​

i posted in the other one that when i was in school auto tech. they brought in a guy that had a motor on it and a torque wrench and he tried all dirrerent oils pennsoil, castrol, mobile, quakerstate, a bunch of synthetics and full synthetics and did a test to show us how much lbs of pressure it would take to stop the motor. all regular oils and semi and full synthetics all stoped the wheel between like 8 and 11lbs of pressure.. then he poured in oil with moly in it. that did not lock up till there was like 19lbs of pressure.. i really want to find a motor oil with molly cause i seen for real how good it is with friction...
i do run motul full synthetic 15w50 in my gsxr 1000 but that thing revs to 12,000 rpm's $12.95 a quart...
do most people know the difference on here between base oils and synthetics? synthetics, they take bad stuff in oil out and put in better stuff. base oils just have some additives, not much taken out, that is why it is cheaper..
i want oil with alot of moly in it and the only kind i know of for sure is honda semi syn. with moly. $6.95 a quart at motorcycle shops and that is to much to pay for all my mowers...

I had you totally figured for the guy who would say save the extra $4 per qt and put it in the piggy bank for a new engine. I pulled this on my Opti-4/Opti-2 dealer. The 2 cycle stuff is good and reasonably priced. The Opti-4 is not... even though they will double your engine warranty for oil related stuff. It's cheaper to buy a new engine than pay for that stuff for 4 years.

Anyways, try your engine trick.
You could knock the zero off that time and I still doubt it would make it.

Click to expand...

No say what? I'm not putting NEW oil in it, I'm draining the OLD oil out, give me SOME credit, the $2 still goes towards the new engine
I have around 87 quarts (6 of it full, the rest is blend) of oil stored as I buy it in quantity ONLY when it's on sale. Thus far, I've paid an average price per quart of $1.96 with the tax (retail nowadays is close to $3 for blend) so the money is saved in other ways as well, call it an interest that builds as I use the oil over the next 4-5 years not to mention it gives me the ability to stay operational for a LONG time with very little income (I store a LOT of supplies this way, weedtrimmer string I must have 30 years worth thou I did mess up and bought 1 roll too many lol). Ear plugs at least 10 year's supply, blades another 10 years, Round-up 2-3 years, etc, etc...

I only run blend or full in everything that does NOT require mix gas (except the truck, it leaks and it WOULD be too expensive). Far as expense, all my equipment gets 1 oil change / year but I watch the oil, the ONLY equipment I really have to watch are the mowers as they get used ALL season so when the oil turns way dark in the full-time machine, I switch and start using the other one. Everything else is so seasonal (i.e.: the pushblower is used in fall only, I change the oil right before it gets ready to be used, then when I'm done it sits until next fall because NO I don't DO leaves in spring).

Far as the mix, I run all of that on the Stihl-mfg 2-cycle mix, echo and everything that requires mix, stihl 2-cycle mix.

A LOT of motor oils now have really good forms of moly in them... ones that d not settle out.
The oils I listed have a good dose of it.
These oils rival synthetics.

My only problem is that lately these oils have been in short supply around me.
Maybe this is another shortage showing up from the Hurricane?
I don't know, but I ended up having to put something else in the Lesco.

Anyways, go over to the "Bob is the Oil Guy" site and do some reading. Run searches for the oils you are interested in. By that I mean search the oil analisis part of the forum. You will be able to check out the tested values of this kind of stuff for virgin oil and used oil.

Some of the oil brand websites will have spec sheets also. Compile this info and make a decision. To this day, I still maintain that synthetic oil is not worth the extra $3-$4-$5-$6 bucks a quart over good dino oil. Especially not for use in a small lawn mower motor.

ENVY

​

"If you place a low value upon yourself, rest assured..... the world will not raise your price."​

"The bitterness of poor quality lingers on long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten"​