Comments: Despite the longer approach, this is a great area that offers good routes of varying difficulty. I would recommend this area to those who typically go to Lower Mothers and the toe of Sunday Wall. Some great slab climbs.

Comments: Great route. Too bad it starts off of the slab as it gives you a little mental buzz. Ripped off the beginning underling. Does not make it any more difficult, just less secure to start. The crux is placing gear on lead. I found that a #3 at the top of the hand jam made me feel happy. Make sure you bring an extra #0.4 to put in a horizontal 3' left of the crack after turning the roof to keep the rope out of the hungry crack!

Comments: For some historical information: during the war, families were given different flags depending on if their son(s) were alive or dead. You were given a Gold Star flag for those who died in Combat. In order to honor the fallen, a giant Gold Star flag was hung between the entrance to Goldstar Canyon. To do this, they suspended a large chunk of solid wire across the gap. One side being secured to this Tower and the other side to the cliff line and tower group on the West side of the canyon. I still ... more >>

Comments: Steven, Upper Mighty Mouse/ Space Balls wall stays in the shade until mid to late afternoon. Quarry Wall is usually good until about 1pm depending where along the cliff you are. Mothers and Sunday Wall go into the shade in the later afternoon.

Comments: If you continue past the anchors as either a single long pitch or as a second pitch, there is a worthwhile, bolted face up great rock. A bolted anchor can be found at the next obvious ledge. Probably 5.10.

Comments: Another great Monument adventure. Pitches one and two have some great climbing! Three gets a little loose and bird poop filled. The last pitch is pretty wild and super fun.

We used the following: singles from #0.3(maybe 2) to #0.5; triples from #0.75- #2; double #3; singles from #5-#6. We brought a Valley Giant 9 and did not use any Bigbros, but Bigbros would work. You can get a six in pretty quickly after turning the roof.... more >>

Comments: Though the guidebook gives this a rating of 12+, both my partner and I think that it warrants a harder grade. The guidebook also states it has a single bolt anchor, but there are actually two. You be the judge! To take the death out of getting to the first bolt, climb Burnt Beautician and clip the first bolt on the rappel.

Comments: Climbing to the first of the good gear is quite heady. Upon close examination, two bolt holes were found of which the studs had been broken off of. At least one of these will be replaced next time up there. Until then, be careful!

Comments: After looking through the book, there is a possibility that this is actually the route, "Hairdresser on Fire" labeled as a 5.13? Project. However I have my doubts because a few feet to the left is a line with some smashed hangers and empty holes. The route that exists now goes higher than the book describes and has a few copper heads en-route which was typical of Jim Beyer. The hanger smashing was sometimes typical of him as well.