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So my question is, is there any way to adjust the exposure compensation while the shutter button is half depressed? I also own an x100 and I'm pretty sure this is not a problem with this one.
I wonder why it is so important for you to turn the EV comp wheel WHILE you keep the shutter button half-pressed (BTW both the X100 and the X-Pro1 behave the same in this regard)?
Both cameras will display the same exposure values for the same FoV before and after you press the shutter button (unless you have enabled Auto DR and/or Auto ISO). So, it should not be a problem to adjust for these cameras' specific behavior and select exposure compensation before locking exposure and/or focus.

Not having any experience with geotagging, I have a question regarding the time setting necessary to connect camera image files with the recorded GPS data: Does the normal Fuji camera system clock need to be set directly to the mobile phone's time, or is it also possible to have the result of the camera's home time plus the "local" time offset coincide with the mobile phone's time.
Example: I live in Germany, and I am taking a vacation in the UK, where the time is 1h behind Germany's standard time. So, I would not change my camera's date and time, but I would select the camera's "Time Difference" menu option, select "local" and define a -1h time offset. Thus, my German time setting of e.g. 14:00h would change into 13:00h UK time. My Fuji camera would then display 13:00h together with a yellow airplane symbol on its LCD screen.
My mobile phone will automatically sync with any local time zone that it is located in. So, if I were to visit the UK, and UK local time were 13:00h at the time I would adjust the camera's time for geotagging, would I need to set my camera's System time to 14:00h and the local offset to -1h? Or would I need to set the camera's system time to 13:00h and the time offset to 0h?

I have used my X-Pro1 in light drizzle without problems, but I wouldn't recommend doing that in heavy rain. Anyway, if you want to use the camera in wet conditions, consider to use it in something like an Optech Rainsleeve. You can't go diving with this protector, but it will probably give enough protection in a heavy rainstorm.

Check out the Konica Hexar AF and RF.
The Hexar AF is very much like the X100, but it has a much faster - active - AF that even works at night. It has a fixed 35mm f2.0 lens that rivals a Leica Summicron.
If you already have some M bayonet lenses, consider the Hexar RF. That's the M7 MkII Leica never managed to build: aperture-priority AE and an integrated motor drive, first-rate build quality and it looks very sleek.

curios how the the 18-55 will be sold effectively by retail and aftermarket.
Calumet in Germany is listing the lens for € 649 - that's including 19% VAT (sales tax). Foto Wolf in Dresden Germany is even quoting it at € 599 incl. VAT. These are interesting prices considering that the 60mm XF prime lens comes at approximately the same amount of money.

@shigzeo: Go to http://www.novoflex.com/en/home/
Click "Products"
Click "Adapters"
Click "Adapter Finder"
Then enter your camera and the lens type you want to connect to your camera. The results after your data entry will lead you to the desired information.

I'm a bit concerned that it doesn't look like the Canon pins are the in the same place as the Fuji ones.
The Canon flash interface features one pin more than Fuji's interface. But The Fuji pins actually are in exactly the same position as the corresponding pins on the Canon cable. Since the Canon cable only features straight 1-to-1 wiring without any electronics, it is perfectly usable for Fuji cameras and flash units.

I have the EF-20 and EF-X20 and can confirm that they work TTL with the X-Pro1. Fuji claims that the EF-42 does, but I haven't tried it. It's supposedly (almost) as powerful as the Nikon flash, much more than the EF-20 and EF-X20. I like the quality of the flash produced by the small flashes, but I also want a more powerful flash for outdoor photography. I am frustrated by the offerings from Fuji because none have inputs for off-camera use. If you don't need that, the EF-42 seems like a good choice.
You don't need such an input. Just use a Canon OC-E3 remote TTL cable, and you have a flash you can use tethered in TTL mode.

Can I ask whether you have any reference to the specification of the internal screw thread on the X-Pro1 viewfinder?
Matching diopter lenses for the X-Pro 1 are available from Cosina, Voigtlander and Zeiss - and now also from Fuji. The diopter lenses have a 19mm thread.
Please note that these diopters need to be chosen and fixed on the camera. They will adjust the camera to a fixed combined diopter value, and thus aren't suitable to flexibly adjust the viewfinder's virtual focusing distance.
BTW, if you intend to use any non-Fuji lens via adapter, you will most likely focus that lens using the EVF. Thus, it would make sense to optimize your viewfinder's optical strength for EVF viewing - which is identical to the virtual focusing distance of the OVF data overlay.

The difference is normal.
The X-Pro1 optical viewfinder is a see-through system that does not present a projection of an image like a DSLR does. Consequently, the OVF image cannot be presented on a fixed image plane. Even when looking through the OVF, the eye still needs to focus on varying distances.
On the other hand, the hybrid viewfinder's data overlay is being presented at a fixed distance because you are looking at an LCD display which does not move. Using specific viewing optics, this distance is set to some rather close virtual distance, say 1.5m or 5ft. This distance always is some kind of a compromise because it is technically impossible to present both the data overlay and the actual see-through VF image at exactly the same distance.
In suggest you take your camera to your optometrist and try out a number of diopter lenses. Do the tests while wearing your glasses and look for a lens strength that offers a compromise between focusing your eye onto the data overlay while still being able to focus it reasonably easily on the VF contents of the see-thru OVF. This is especially important if you are using progressive glasses because you will want to look through these glasses in a normal (center) position, and not along the upper or lower rim.