It had been a while since this Oxnard boy has surfed the Bu. Given the fact that I work 15 minutes away, sometimes it's easy just to hit up second point rather than drive home and make the glass off. Besides, if you live in Oxnard, you know that glassoffs are a rare thing. So the only thing that makes this session truly worth mentioning is the fact that Kalani Robb was in the line-up this day surfing betwen second and third point. It's kind of a shocker to see a Kuai boy surfing the LA Zoo, but I managed to chat with Kalani for a few minutes and he seems like a pretty cool cat. He still kills it by the way, but then again..I wasn't surfing so bad myself. We've had a few back to back souths right now, but the wind conditions haven't been perfect. the Bu always seems to have the best wind conditions out of the breaks in LA towards evening.

went up to NSW for holiydays and went down for a surf and prob one of the most crowed breaks ive ever been to.and their were all fucking dicks no respect for anyone not even for the locals. about time someone taught them a lesson or to. but other than that good session with mates

Session:

I don't usually post this kind of thing but I gather from a message or two I've received that somebody actually reads these, so, in the spirit of public service etc...

If you're going to the Ranch, and you're not in a boat, FIND A LOCAL AND GET DIRECTiONS. Might I suggest the amicable dudes from the shop in Troncones. I spent five days driving down all the dusty roads in the vicinity of La Union before I found it.

Beautiful, punchy, powerful, worth it even if you were lost for five days like I was.

Separately I think a lot of locals (surfers, certainly not business owners) made quite a bit of noise about the shark attacks in Troncones and areas just north. The same garbage you often find on other parts of this site and others, with the difference that this time, there were actual fatalities to point to. In hindsight these look like a one-off (does that make them a three-off?) relating to abandoned fishing gear, whatever. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to head back.

After a week without any surf, there was a small window at the end of the week-end. The wind has just changed around 2pm. So I went. And it was a good decision.

The funny thing was that I changed my 6'8" just the day before. So I wanted to try it as soon as possible. The swell was multipeak but fun to surf with bowls. And on my second wave, I scored a really good tube! I just pulled in. This board, a "Chevallier", the Hossegor shaper, is so good....