14-71 High Helix Edjucation

Find a blower where you can run as little od as possible. Will make better , cleaner power versus turning it 39-44 od. It will also keep the blower happy for long life without restripping every couple races

We run Top Dragster in Div. 5. We have a set up that is a 540 with brodix bb3 380 cnc heads and good cam. We run 6.40s on 17psi boost. We are thinking about getting a 14-71 this winter and honestly for companys out their. To run Top dragster we are looking at The Blower Shop. Alot of people run their blower. Our 8-71 we got right now is a BDS. Its got 9 strips and Hi Helx. We have been runing this combo for 3 years now. So for the best money might be a used one or a new one. But I think the blower shop right now is the best way to go honestly. Also if your 14-71 is making 24 psi. Id also be looking in to the cam. and heads they can wake up a car like fliping a light switch. We switched heads and cams this last winter and also new car but we picked up over half second tho. In just head and cam. Also a new 278 TD Spitzer car. but we only lost 100lbs from our old car but this car works way better then the old one but still. Not Saying tho it was just the new car. Im thinking more on Heads and Cams mainly the Cam.

Just do you your research and whats best for your pocket book. Dont always listen to everyone or just that one guys that think he knows it all. Its your choise and do what you think it best for your combo. Also buy thru a racer that is a dealer for the company they can save you money as well. Insead of the company them selfs. One it helps the local racer and two you get a better deal sometime. Hope this helps.

The car is a 260" Monden double slip joint, weighs 2015 with me. It has a 1.80 low gear (power glide) a 4.10 gear, and a set of Hoosier 34.5 x 16's, set at 5.750lbs on dual bead locks.

I also have on the shelf a LSM roller cam, 115 l/c, Intake lift .850, Intake duration 286, Exhaust lift .830, Exhaust duration .300. I had it in the motor at the first of the year, pulled it out as everyone told me it was to much. Honestly I don't think it got a fair chance like things were.

Wow on the cams. Way not in the right direction. You should call Bullet or Janis, and get a real cam shaft. That's is most of your problems. I had a 525 chevy @20 od with stock kobelco. Made 2375@9600 on Dmpe dyno.

We run Top Dragster in Div. 5. We have a set up that is a 540 with brodix bb3 380 cnc heads and good cam. We run 6.40s on 17psi boost. We are thinking about getting a 14-71 this winter and honestly for companys out their. To run Top dragster we are looking at The Blower Shop. Alot of people run their blower. Our 8-71 we got right now is a BDS. Its got 9 strips and Hi Helx. We have been runing this combo for 3 years now. So for the best money might be a used one or a new one. But I think the blower shop right now is the best way to go honestly.

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My similar engine (565 BBC) with a Blower Shop fully stripped 14-71HH makes 15lbs at 6%, car picked up .1 on an 1/8th mile track from my previous non-stripped 10-71HH (not a Blower Shop blower) at 26% making the same 15lbs, no other changes.

Wow on the cams. Way not in the right direction. You should call Bullet or Janis, and get a real cam shaft. That's is most of your problems. I had a 525 chevy @20 od with stock kobelco. Made 2375@9600 on Dmpe dyno.

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Care to describe a "real" blower cam, because I think the one he pulled out was a pretty good stick. I backed to backed a "real" Bullet blower cam with one that I liked better (and one that the owner of Bullet claimed wouldn't fall out of a tree). Guess which one was faster? The one I liked. The most interesting part about that deal.... The one I liked was also designed by a guy at Bullet.

yes, generally with the converter we were looking at 9400 rpm or so depending on what od we were running. we were targeting approx 12,700 rpm at the rotors.

The f5 must be fairly new as I just sold my F3 that went 3.60's about 6-8 months ago and the F4 with the billet case was the best they made at that time. They are stout blowers so that F5 should rock!

As the gentleman are saying the less od you can make power with the happier parts generally are but the blower wants more engine rpm on the very low od units.

The blower shop blowers have a billet case I believe and I have seen them run well on Nostalgia top fuelers and the like but I have never seen one on a competitive modern blown alcohol ride.

Certain blower designs also have better teflon life than others. The PSI roots is known for keeping strips in it longer than others but its not the greatest low od blower. We are planning on stripping our Hammer billet blower only once a year as per Troy. The previous K-11 we had was going to be the same as it only lost 1/2 lb of boost throughout the pro boost season.

I almost forgot, the dragster that ran 6.20's was only being spun to 8,000 rpm and the LF K-8 blower was at 38 or 42 od. We could have went 8,500-9,000 on that deal but it gets hard on the valve train.

Bob...we have VERY Similar combos! I pulled the Injected Nitro engine out of my FED and put a "basic" BBC in such as yours (Except 509) Same block, heads, pump, etc! This engine in the FED T/D ran 6.50's at ZERO O.D. on an old Littlefield cast 14-71 HH! We are trying to dial it "down" to 7.0 for Nostalgia 7.0 Pro. Curious what your using for rear tires as we still have the NTF tires on which worked the the glide clutch but not so well with a converter in front of it! Smoke at the hit! I will dig up the cam specs tonight. Thanks, Tim

Hey Bob I would put the other cam in thats a way better cam then the one in there.( I think) Honestly. but install it a 114. What is your lobe sep on both cams. Back the blower down to 35% od and go from their as well. Because I'm beting your making heat. We have really similar set ups what ets are you running. and 60' ft also what brand of converter do you got. I run Killer Rons injection. Not enderly.

The car is a 260" Monden double slip joint, weighs 2015 with me. It has a 1.80 low gear (power glide) a 4.10 gear, and a set of Hoosier 34.5 x 16's, set at 5.750lbs on dual bead locks.

I also have on the shelf a LSM roller cam, 115 l/c, Intake lift .850, Intake duration 286, Exhaust lift .830, Exhaust duration .300. I had it in the motor at the first of the year, pulled it out as everyone told me it was to much. Honestly I don't think it got a fair chance like things were.

Hey Bob I would put the other cam in thats a way better cam then the one in there.( I think) Honestly. but install it a 114. What is your lobe sep on both cams. Back the blower down to 35% od and go from their as well. Because I'm beting your making heat. We have really similar set ups what ets are you running. and 60' ft also what brand of converter do you got. I run Killer Rons injection. Not enderly.

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I feel the same way about the cam, It didn't get a sporting chance with things like I was running.
Slowing the overdrive down makes sense, I still plan to put a better blower on the car this winter.
I can't get you any numbers on a pass, as I haven't run the car with this combination yet.
The converter came with the car when I bought it, and the previous owner has no idea either. The converter flashes to 6200rpm, falls back at the shift 1100rpm.

Thanks Bob! What we used to run on the TAFC. Loys run a "smaller" tire on a FED but I want something that wont SHAKE! I don't car it its "over tired" cuz we need to slow it down anyway! If you could sed a pic or 2 of what those big meats look like on your sar to tntmotorsports@prodigy.net I would APPRECIATE it! I like the "look" of the Hoosier NTF's on the car, look "period correct" but are NOT working!

Thanks Bob! What we used to run on the TAFC. Loys run a "smaller" tire on a FED but I want something that wont SHAKE! I don't car it its "over tired" cuz we need to slow it down anyway! If you could sed a pic or 2 of what those big meats look like on your sar to tntmotorsports@prodigy.net I would APPRECIATE it! I like the "look" of the Hoosier NTF's on the car, look "period correct" but are NOT working!

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I think you are expecting a front motored car with big tires from my avatar. That car was in 2005, i have a rear motor car now. Just not smart enough to figure out how to change that picture.

Hey Bob a few more things. let me know when you do make a pass with that cam I metioned earlyer and also if you want a good converter we run Trans Specalties converter and love it. Also just so you know I run a 3.70 gear and M/T lil bubba tire that is a 34x13.5 on a 16inch rim and 16 wide rim. we 950 sixty all day long and been .943. Most guys run 35x15x16 big bubba. Also with your combo it might be toped out at 7500 rpm so running it to 8k will slow it down some as well. but that somthing your going to have to try as well. We do tho run ours to 8k as well. but it like it alot. Even 8300 before as well. I would agree if you can afford a new blower I would get it. If new go with The blower shop or Littel Feild. If you want to speek with a dealer I can get you James Monroe Number from www.killerrons.com He can get you want you need and tell him Joe Swanson sent you to him.

I feel the same way about the cam, It didn't get a sporting chance with things like I was running.
Slowing the overdrive down makes sense, I still plan to put a better blower on the car this winter.
I can't get you any numbers on a pass, as I haven't run the car with this combination yet.
The converter came with the car when I bought it, and the previous owner has no idea either. The converter flashes to 6200rpm, falls back at the shift 1100rpm.