Monthly Archives: March 2017

What the art of Meenakari allows, is for the creation of an image on a piece of jewellery; in other words, painting a picture that goes everywhere with you as an adornment. These images range from beautiful birds like the peacock in its entire glorious colour, to animals, flowers, deities (Goddesses and Gods) and all of this brought out by the vibrancy of the enamels.

Whether it is a piece with one colour reigning or multiple colours in beautiful harmony, Meenakari enamel work is a sight for sore eyes. Add some precious gemstones to that and it becomes an ornament you won’t ever want to take off.

Imagine! This technique began as a backing for stone studded jewellery, also known as Kundan; which is why it was overlooked for the longest time. It’s a good thing someone saw the beauty in flipping it over.

It doesn’t take a village, but there is a certain skill-set that must meet expectations for this traditional jewellery making process to be a success. As mentioned in the previous post the skills in question are inherited by certain individuals from their predecessors. The Chitera (designer), the Sonar (goldsmith), the Kalamkar (engraver), the Meenakar (enamellist a.k.a man/woman of the hour), the Chiknawala (polisher), the Kundansaaz (stone-setter) and the Patua (stringer).

The metals used in the process range from brass and copper to silver and gold. Although it is said gold holds the enamel work better so gold is the preferred metal where a lot of jewellery is concerned. Silver is mostly used in the making of other products; like cutlery, decorative bowls, boxes and other ornamental items.

The enamel colours are powdered glass blended in with metal oxides which determine the shade that comes through.

The surface of the metal is engraved with a sharp engraving tool called a stylus, the ornament cleaned after which the colours are then filled in. The ornament is then fired in the kiln at approximately 850 degree Celsius, where the applied colours harden and that is also when the real colours pop. After the piece cools down it is filed softly and cleaned with a concoction made of tamarind and lemon that is said to bring out the brilliance of each colour.

And voila!

There you have it, a fine piece of meenakari art.

Look out for the next post to round up the information on this technique.

Rajasthan is to be accorded due credit for being the heart of Meenakari art. Jaipur is where the master craftsmen came to; all the way from Lahore, in order to practice this enamelling technique and create beautiful adornments.

It is said, in 16th century Jaipur, Raja Man Singh of Mewar was recognized for his dedicated patronage to the Meenakari art. It was through his initiated backing that set this technique on the path destined for a glimmering future. As a result, within a short span of time, the talented craftsmen with their intricate yet highly specialised skills transformed Jaipur into a place renowned for Meenakari work.

The craftsmen are called Meenakars or go by Verma as well. They belong to the Sonar (Goldsmith) /Sohail caste of Kshatriyas. It can be looked at as a group effort; Meenakari work. It includes the expertise of a couple of individuals; the designer, the goldsmith, the engraver, the Meenakar, the polisher, the stone-setter and the stringer; to name a few.

This craft is hereditary in nature which means it isn’t very likely to be taught to others outside of the community. Keep it within the family, so to speak. Not to say that the technique isn’t known of; but practical knowledge trumps theoretical know-how in this case.

‘Meenakari’ might sound familiar to you. Meena stems from a Persian word ‘mina’ which means ‘azure’, the colour of clear skies on a bright and sunny day; bringing us right round to that gorgeous blue hue of the mineral stone called lapis lazuli.

Meenakari is a rather ancient technique of enamelling, the process of fusing coloured minerals to metal that’s engraved with delicately carved designs. This method was contrived by the Iranians and the Mongols were the ones to bring this knowledge with them to our shores. Originally it was used as a finishing touch or support for stone-studded jewellery but with the passage of time and some recognition it eventually got its time in the spotlight.

Narayan Jewellers, the Ramakant Ambalal Chokshi Group, planned a photo shoot during the week leading up to International Women’s Day. The idea was to celebrate women. Who were these women? Patrons, friends of the brand, clients who frequent this particular store, purchase then don the jewellery and help build goodwill.

We pulled up to the venue, walked in to be greeted with hugs from Tosha and Ravi, pushed past the doors, into a room bustling with energy. Mona Sharma and her girls looked up from their work with smiles as introductions were made. There were tables lined with cosmetics, hair styling products and irons, for both, curling and straightening and chairs facing mirrors.

Time to primp and preen!

Outfits on, a touch of makeup, hair styled and we were ready to go. Browsed through the gorgeous jewellery collection NJ had brought along, picked the pieces that called out to us and we were all set to say cheese.

The atmosphere was relaxed. The photographer with his easy-going attitude, Ravi with his pep talk and comic timing, Tosha with her gentle reminders that this was about us.

A few snaps in and we were set for the short clips upstairs, mused about what being a woman meant to each of us and listened, in turn, as the other ladies spoke. We gave a sound bite each after a bit of mulling over and a few takes.

Come to think of it, this shoot was an exciting idea. Who doesn’t like to feel good? If being dolled up and pampered by professionals does it, who’d turn that down? Add some precious jewellery to the mix and we’re golden. The photo shoot did make a few of us nervous because being in the spotlight all of a sudden can be a bit daunting. Bright lights shining and every eye in the room focused on the lady in front of the camera. There was a lot of nervous laughter and a lot of stiffness in the beginning but each individual, when she took her place in the spotlight, lost her inhibitions with every passing minute. The group shots were injected with contagious laughter which resulted in some pretty happy shots. We had bad jokes and Ravi’s enthusiasm to thank for those.

Talking about what being a woman meant to us was another exercise (and lesson for some) in understanding the diversity in experiences even when limited to a single gender. Not just the roles played as daughter, sister, aunt, mother, grandmother but the additional roles of entrepreneurs, teachers, lawyers, businesswomen, dancers, artists, designers etc. – the roles that serve to fulfil our purpose as individuals taking our place in society, our contribution to the whole, not just in our personal lives but as professionals as well.

This event was not just a meet and greet with a whole new list of contacts to add to our phonebooks (electronic of course). It was a day filled with promise, positivity, encouragement and reminders to keep reflecting on what and who we are; on the impact we have and all that we are capable of.

That’s what a day in the company of Narayan Jewellers turned out to be.

It is apparent in the arms that reach out for a familiar hug, the twinkle in the eyes that light up one face then the other, in the loud laughter that rings out because the joy just cannot be contained.

Someone to lean on, a shoulder to cry on, a hand to hold, a pat on the back, a side to be split with ringing laughter, tears of joy to spill from your eyes, an elbow to the ribs reminding you to take your foot out of your mouth, a dirty joke to get your mind off things, a dirty look to remind you to stop talking, a ride to your destination, a pick-me-up, a partner in crime.