Getaway: Rivers and Waterfalls Run Through It – Ocho Rios

Janine S. Pouliot

Tuesday

Nov 27, 2007 at 12:01 AMNov 27, 2007 at 6:15 AM

Editor's note: For Dec. 5 publication.

The Spanish named the area Ocho Rios, which means eight rivers. There are, in fact, several rivers that wind their way down from the mountains, through the jungle and into the Caribbean Sea in and around this Jamaican town. There are waterfalls, too, in a place that is still one of the most luxuriant spots in the entire Caribbean.

Editor's note: For Dec. 5 publication.

Christopher Columbus recognized a gorgeous thing when he stumbled on it.

In 1494, while traipsing the globe in search of India, he accidentally made landfall on the island of Jamaica. He was wowed by the lushness.

The Spanish named the area Ocho Rios, which means eight rivers. There are, in fact, several rivers that wind their way down from the mountains, through the jungle and into the Caribbean Sea in and around this Jamaican town. There are waterfalls, too, in a place that is still one of the most luxuriant spots in the entire Caribbean.

Exploring nature here is a must-do.

Most tourists make a beeline to the area’s top natural attraction, Dunn’s River Falls, an interactive experience to say the least.

Area resorts and visiting cruise ships offer excursions to the falls. On a recent trip, I joined a tour that promised, and delivered, a soft eco-adventure in fantastically tropical surroundings.

After getting out of the van, you walk just a few feet and suddenly are in a jungle, with the faint sound of rushing water buzzing in the background. After walking another minute or two, the noise grows louder and then there it is, a powerful falls tumbling over rocks at warp speed.

While the view itself is impressive, the best experience here involves getting up close and personal with the falls. You do this by heading down a boardwalk to start at the bottom, where the river empties out into the bluest of seas trimmed by a white, sandy beach. And then you climb your way back up – you can either go it alone or form a human chain with others by holding hands to be led by a guide as you snake your way from rock to rock against the roaring current.

I made my way up alone, but enjoyed the occasional scream of delight from other excited tourists. The water was cold but I felt exhilarated.

A quieter and drier way to experience a Jamaican river and waterfall is to dine at The Ruins at the Falls restaurant, walking distance from the bustling town center of Ocho Rios and the active cruise ship pier.

As soon as you walk through the arched entranceway of the open-air restaurant you are deep inside a tropical paradise enclosing a magnificent wide falls. Little bridges cross over the Turtle River that runs through the restaurant, the sound of rushing water always in the background.

You can sit and admire the falls from an open-air terrace shaded by huge banyan and fig trees. It’s downright romantic. Menu offerings include local dishes like red pea soup finished with coconut cream, fish chowder, jerk pork or chicken and fried fish. There are Chinese options, too.

You can find another river experience at Coyaba Gardens. Here I drove to the top of the lush mountains that stand as backdrop to Ocho Rios, to find this formal setting of meticulously sculpted gardens, fountains, lawns and brick paths. An easy walk past bright flowers leads to yet another waterfall and platforms from which you can admire the tumbling water, amazing rainforest canopy and stunning coastal vista.

Exploring further, I visited Cranbrook Flower Forest, a privately owned and off-the-beaten-path wild garden that few visitors discover, though it is open to the public. Cranbrook comprises 130 acres of native plants clustered along a walking trail. The grounds have long been the family residence of a local, Ivan Linton, who still unobtrusively lives here.

The day was hot and sultry, and I was lucky enough to bump into Linton, who let me delve into his plant knowledge.

Linton tapped a Traveler’s Palm tree with his fist and liquid squirted out. “This was a secret [thirst-quenching] resource known to the island’s early settlers,” he explained. He pulled a bud from an African tulip and gently squeezed it. Drop after drop plummeted out as he said, “this is good for curing conjunctivitis.” Moving on to a cactus, he opined, “the sap of the tuna cactus makes hair shiny.”

At the end of the trail is a natural pool overflowing into a waterfall formed by the Laughlands Great River. Guests are invited to jump in.

And that’s the way to explore Ocho Rios, jump in and get close to nature.

Bonding with Nature Overnight

The high-end boutique hotel, Goldeneye, is located in the center of a lush jungle about 20 minutes from Ocho Rios. It is a world unto itself, a true tropical paradise. Once the private home of Ian Fleming, who wrote all 13 James Bond novels here, it now consists of five individual units nestled in luxuriant foliage overlooking a perfect beach. Fleming’s cottage has an outdoor garden shower and freestanding claw-foot bathtub surrounded by verdant vegetation. Prices start at $660 per night. 1-800-OUTPOST; www.islandoutpost.com.

If You Go

Getting there: US Airways offers non-stop service to Montego Bay, on Saturdays only (www.usairways.com). Connecting service is offered through Philadelphia and other airports other days of the week. Most of the larger Ocho Rios resorts provide airport transfers from Montego Bay. The drive takes about 1 1/2 hours. Taxis run about $120 for up to four people. Inexpensive van service is also available.