You may have noticed that
retinol has made its way into an increasing number of skin care
products. At first it was just in night creams and serums, but lately it
has been turning up in just about everything, from cleansers to
sunscreens. The problem is, retinol should never be used during the day,
a fact that cosmetics companies seem to ignore.

Retinol is a weaker, over the counter version of tretinoin, a
prescription vitamin A derivative that is highly effective in reversing
sun damage and signs of aging. Tretinoin decreases fine lines, evens
skin color, improves texture, tightens pores, and stimulates blood flow
and collagen production. However, quite a few people cannot tolerate
tretinoin because it can be highly irritating and drying. Retinol is
milder; while the results may not be as dramatic, more people tolerate
it well. Like tretinoin, retinol encourages skin cell turnover; this new
skin is delicate and should not be exposed to the sun. That is why
these ingredients should only be found in products intended for night
use.

Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, rapidly break down when
exposed to the sun and air. That’s why retinol-containing products
should always come in pumps or tubes with tight-fitting caps. Once
opened, these products do not keep well and should be used within a
couple of months.

What worries me and many other dermatologists is that retinol is now
in used in foundations, lipsticks, sunscreens and cleansers, especially
those that are touted as “anti-aging.” But in daytime products, retinol
will have the opposite effect and actually make skin age faster because
it is more susceptible to the sun, no matter the amount of SPF
protection promised on the foundation or sunscreen. This two-in-one
approach of anti-aging sunscreens and foundations is just not a good
idea. A good rule of thumb is never buy a product with an SPF number and
retinol in its list of ingredients – the two don’t make a good
combination. Retinol-containing cleansers are simply a waste of money,
because the retinol is washed down the drain and is not on the skin long
enough to work. Lipsticks with retinol also arouse very little
enthusiasm among dermatologists, to put it mildly. The skin on the lips
is very thin and sensitive, and it’s the area of the body where skin
cancers metastasize faster. I honestly think that promoting lipstick
with retinol is just plain irresponsible. Unnecessary, too, since people
can safely use retinol on the lips at night.

Something else to consider is that retinol, like all vitamin A
derivatives, is NOT recommended for women who are pregnant or
breastfeeding. That includes all skin care products, even serums and
night creams. And it certainly includes sunscreens – I’m always appalled
when I see pregnant women applying retinol-containing sunscreens on
their bellies. I can’t understand why warnings for pregnant women are
not on more skin care products.

The bottom line is that retinol is a useful and proven ingredient in its proper place – night time products.

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