A little history: I purchased a 2008 Cannondale Super Six frame used and built it up about 3 years ago. I installed the Cannondale Hollowgram SI crankset (used) with new standard 6806 cannondale bb30 bearings. The bike was ridden appr. 2500 miles when a noise developed in what i immediately thought was from the bottom bracket. I replaced the bearings with a purchased Enduro press tool per cannondale's instructions. This is where the problem begins, the noises, which can be described as creaking started again after about 25 miles. Over the next 3 to 4 months the the crank was re-installed several times but the creaking always returned. After much internet research and knowledge I tried various fixes but I believe I have eliminated any other source of the creaking: Quick release skewers, seat post, pedals, stem, chainring bolts etc. I also contemplated the possibility that I may have installed the crankset incorrectly as I am a self taught wrencher. I have three other BB30 Cannondale's and none have this problem. All cranksets were installed per Cannondale's specs by myself. Still I left the possibility open that I may have missed something. The Loctite 609 solution was also attempted but also failed to cure the problem.

I came very close to purchasing a ROTOR BB30 to BSA adapter and installing a 24mm spindle crankset. I came to the conclusion that the BB30 shell may have come out of spec or tolerance. But one more internet search revealed a couple of fixes i had not tried.

The happy ending. The steps I took which lead to success. 1. The crankset, bearings and c - clips were removed and the bottom bracket shell was cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.2. The groves for the c-clips were lightly greased (phil wood grease) and the clips were installed.3. The bottom bracket shell, were the bearings reside, was coated with LOCTITE Copper based Anti-Seize. (C5-A).4. New BB30 bearings were installed with the outer races lightly coated with anti-seize.5. The spindle, cooled down in a freezer, was heavily greased and installed. No anti-seize was used on the inner races of the bearings.6. Prior to installing the crank the spider was removed, cleaned, greased and reinstalled to proper torque.7. The crankarms, heavily greased, were installed with the crankarm bolts (also heavily greased) to 41 NM's.

The main differences with this install was the addition of Loctite anti-seize and reinstalling the spider.

So far the crank has remained quiet after logging around a hundred miles. Previously the creaking would return after less than 25 miles. He's hoping the noises do not return.

i've had same problem, but do you really think using loctite is the answer...now those bearings are in there forever and although it may not be making noise now that could change...i say that because after i have cleaned and regreased the bb, it usually is fine for a week or so and then sqeeks again....good luck, curious to know how that works out

I'm glad this worked for you. It sounds like you will still be able to remove the bearings if you need to. Even it was loctite glue I don't see a problem with keeping the cups that hold the bearing locked into the bottom bracket. I guess they only issue would be if someone wanted to install a non-bb30 bottom bracket and needed an adapter. Seeing this prompted me to look through my manual and I figured out I need a T45 rather than a 6 mm hex for my crank bolt. That will help me so I don't strip it out the next time I re-grease mine!

i've had same problem, but do you really think using loctite is the answer...now those bearings are in there forever and although it may not be making noise now that could change...i say that because after i have cleaned and regreased the bb, it usually is fine for a week or so and then sqeeks again....good luck, curious to know how that works out

The Loctite Anti-seize APPEARS do be the answer , I'm hoping, but the anti-seize still allows the bearings to be removed. It doesn't LOCK TIGHT the bearings in place. After all other options failed this one APPEARS to be working. If it doesn't work in the long run, the bearings can be removed and the shell cleaned for use with an adapter. If you've run out of options if maybe worth a try.

So you basically cleaned everything and greased the heck out of everything (antiseize is just a grease with metal particles)

Glad it worked for you but I heard antiseize is not that good to use around the bearings, the reason is that it could possibly make it inside the bearing seal and contaminate the bearing. I usually use the same grease identical to what is inside the bearings.

So you basically cleaned everything and greased the heck out of everything (antiseize is just a grease with metal particles)

Glad it worked for you but I heard antiseize is not that good to use around the bearings, the reason is that it could possibly make it inside the bearing seal and contaminate the bearing. I usually use the same grease identical to what is inside the bearings.

Yes your right !!

The anti-seize being the important difference i hadn't tried before. I had greased the heck out of everything before without success. IF its the metal particles count me as a believer. I know this could be temporary but if it fixes it long term others may want to give it a try.

Quick question when you used Loctite 609 , did you use it on the OUTER and INNER races of the bearings?

I used it only on the outer races.

I can see where it also might help on inner races. But on my bike, using a SRAM Force BB30 crankeset, the spindles were snug enough that I have to tap them through the inner races lightly with a mallet to put it together. So maybe it just depends on the snugness of a particular spindle.

I work in a place that does a lot of bonding and loctiting, so I believe the most important thing for those applications is surface preparation. I thoroughly cleaned the BB inner surface and the bearing outer surface with naptha and then alcohol (other solvent would probably work too). Scuffed the surfaces lightly with fine steel wool, then cleaned again. Applied a very light, but thoroughly-covering coating of 609 to both surfaces, with a q-tip, then pressed into place normally. Wear rubber gloves so you don't contaminate any surface you may need to touch. Clean off any excess loctite with a q-tip after installation. Let dry for 24 hrs before installing the crank. that's how I did it anyway.

He's got three other bikes and none of them creak. Yet he's only just discovering the solution to this problem. Cut the BS people.

Four cranks installed over a years period .. This one was installed for about 2 years then starting creaking the others haven't. Found the fix after about 3 months of reading and trying various fixes. Don't get your inference.

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