Wabi, Holborn

Japanese fine dining finds a new home in Holborn

The buzz Wabi-sabi is the Japanese aesthetic of simple beauty, but ironically, theres nothing simple about this food. Former Nobu head chef Scott Hallsworth offers a genuine fine dining experience; depth and subtlety of flavour and an exquisite visual presentation which delight the eye.

The lowdown Head downstairs into Wabis basement dining area and youll find the usual lux Japanese design elements (dark wood, a shimmering waterfall, white leather banquettes) present and correct. Hallsworth and his team obviously decided that anything more attention-seeking would be a distraction from the food  and theyre probably right.

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Perfect for Lovers of Japanese food looking to dial up their culinary experience; local lawyers and businesspeople desperate for an oasis of R&R in what, frankly, is a horrible part of town.

Menu highlights The contemporary kaiseki tasting menu features ingredients we didnt even pretend to have heard of in a succession of dishes resembling an exotically hued, miniaturized fairy tale landscape of curlicues, fronds and tendrils. So often pretty food is just that  but Hallsworths dishes are piquant, umami-filled flavour bombs. Highlights included Crunchy Tamaki Cone: Toro, Wasabi Cream & Charcoal Onions, Lobster and Chips: Kombu Butter poached Lobster with Uni, Vegetable Chips & Yuzu-Truffle-Egg Dip and Wagyu Steak Ishi-Yaki served sizzling with Japanese BBQ Sauce.

Last word Serious about eating? £75 for this tasting menu will seem money well-spent.

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