tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65763463475731882272017-10-15T06:43:11.824-07:00Powder Coating: The Complete GuidePowder Coating: The Complete Guide is a complete guide to diy powder coating. This guide will teach you everything about getting set up and how to powder coat. Click here to learn how to powder coat.Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-34408848183478389562017-07-01T07:18:00.000-07:002017-07-19T21:10:10.777-07:00Spraying Multiple Coats<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hV4r-algpmE/VbjcTfbED1I/AAAAAAAACHI/aDTrrU0ynO0/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coaitng two tone wheels rims" border="0" height="267" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hV4r-algpmE/VbjcTfbED1I/AAAAAAAACHI/aDTrrU0ynO0/s400/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coaitng two tone wheels rims" width="400" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">There are several instances when powder coating where multiple coats will be involved.&nbsp; Often times, it is a clear coat for added protection and appearance. Sometimes it is required, chrome powders need a clear to protect them from oxidizing.&nbsp; Candy colors need a chrome base to achieve the candy look.&nbsp; Also, multiple colors can be applied onto one part to achieve a two-tone look.&nbsp; This article will help you apply multiple coats of powder the correct way.</span><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;"></span></b><br /><a name='more'></a><br />Adding a top coat or second coat should not be much more difficult than the base coat or first coat, however adding a third, fourth, fifth coat will depend on the level of powder coating gun you are using. A cheap hobby powder coating gun like an <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XE6HHG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002XE6HHG&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=VBZP5GTFJ7GBH6UB">Eastwood</a></b>, <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YEAYCW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004YEAYCW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=JFSI3P4AXJSBADSL">Craftsman</a></b> or <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBCZNS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B006ZBCZNS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=U33Y4IBBO3DL2FK3">Harbor Freight</a></b> will struggle much more with multiple coats, specifically powder attraction, than a mid-level or a professional gun will. This is because the grounded metal part that you are spraying is now insulated by the first layer of powder, and each layer of powder after that becomes increasingly more difficult. Using a grounding rod to ground your parts will significantly aid this process but it can only do so much to help with the shortcomings of a hobby powder coating gun. <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">Learn how to setup a grounding rod</a></b>. <br /><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Spraying Multiple Coats -Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="auto" data-ad-slot="9491702330" hidden="" ikw5pd4="" oib0p4j="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br />Another way to overcome shooting multiple coats with a cheaper gun is one that I don't recommend unless you absolutely need to, and this is something that you should only do if you are shooting your own parts. This method involves shooting the part hot so that when the powder hits the part, it will slightly melt, causing it to stick. The issue with this method is that it is very easy to spray way too much powder on the part which can lead to an easily chipped part and possibly orange peel. When shooting the part hot, use the lowest temperature that allows the powder to stick to the part, generally 175 to 200 degrees F, and try to avoid spraying excess powder on the part as much as possible.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Adjusting KV&nbsp;</b></span> </div><br />A powder coating gun feature that aids shooting multiple coats is the ability to adjust the KV setting.&nbsp; A 2nd coat should always be sprayed with reduced KV, generally 50% less than the first coat. For example, if you shoot the first coat at 70 KV, you would then spray the following coats at 35 to 40 KV.&nbsp; It is best to play with the KV settings and find the sweet spot for the parts you are shooting. These adjustable KV settings are only found on the mid-level and professional powder coating guns.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>The Process</b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><br />The process differs slightly depending on the powders you are using.&nbsp;&nbsp; When you are spraying multiple coats and a chrome powder is not involved, a partial cure between coats is the best method.&nbsp; This applies to any&nbsp; The advantage of partial curing a powder before shooting the next coat is intercoat adhesion.&nbsp; This means that the two powders are crosslinked and bonded together as well as being bonded to the part.&nbsp; Failure to partially cure the first coat before spraying the second coat can cause the second coat to peel off.&nbsp; This is called delamination.&nbsp; If you think about it, when you are spraying your first coat over a sandblasted base, the powder has a very textured surface to grip onto.&nbsp; However, if you spray a second coat over a high-gloss base coat, the surface is very smooth and the powder has nothing to grab onto.&nbsp; Partial curing the powders between coats allows them to melt together preventing this from happening.&nbsp; Follow step 3a. below if a chrome powder IS NOT being used.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5-tak5j4Lqo/Vbje2xUGLYI/AAAAAAAACHY/vWll6mMdAck/s1600/IMAG0036%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating black chrome veiny cracked apperance" border="0" height="179" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5-tak5j4Lqo/Vbje2xUGLYI/AAAAAAAACHY/vWll6mMdAck/s320/IMAG0036%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coating black chrome veiny cracked apperance" width="320" /></a>When you are spraying multiple coats with a chrome type powder involved, you must always fully cure the chrome powder before spraying the next coat. It doesn't matter whether the next coat is a clear coat, candy coat, or anything else, the chrome must be fully cured in the oven before moving on.&nbsp; Unfortunately, this increases the chances of delamination occurring, but it is a risk that must be taken if you want the correct appearance when finished.&nbsp; A chrome powder that is not fully cured can appear to have a veiny cracked appearance when top coated as pictured on the right.&nbsp; Follow steps 3b. below if a chrome powder IS being used. <br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Step by Step Instructions for Multiple Coats</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>(no chrome powder involved)</b></span></div><br /><br />1. Prepare your part just as you usually would. <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html">How to prep for powder coating</a>.<br /><br /><br />2. Spray the first coat of powder just as you usually would. <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/05/how-to-spray-powder-coat.html">How to properly spray powder coat</a>.<br /><br /><br />3. Insert part in oven. If any masking was used, it is best to pull the part from the oven after the part reaches 200 degrees and remove any masking. Then insert the part back in the oven and complete the partial cure. Removing the masking at this time gives cleaner masking lines, read more about it <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.Vbi8urWz5kF">here</a>. <br /><br /><br />3a. Cure the part in the oven at the required temperature but for only 60% of the required cure time. For example, if the powder calls for a cure time of 10 minutes, only cure it for 6 minutes. It is very important that you only start your timer after the entire part itself has reached the required temp, confirm part temperature with an <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Infrared Thermometer</a>. <br /><br /><br />3b. (Chrome powder only) Do a full cure of the chrome powder in the oven.I even allow the part 3 extra minutes in the oven just to be 100% that the chrome powder is fully cured. It is very important that you only start your timer after the entire part itself has reached the required temp, confirm part temperature with an <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Infrared Thermometer</a>. <br /><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Spraying Multiple Coats -Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="auto" data-ad-slot="9491702330" hidden="" ikw5pd4="" oib0p4j="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br />4. Using clean gloves, remove part from oven and allow it to cool to room temperature. Reapply masking if necessary. Any handling of the part with bare hands can cause issues in the following coat. If you use air to blow off the part at this time, it can cause a static charge that causes the second coat to adhere in odd patterns. If air must be used to blow off the part, or if you wipe the part down, you can disssipate this static charge by heating up the part in the oven for a couple of minutes at 150 degrees F.&nbsp; I try to avoid any need to blow off or wipe the part in between coats. <br /><br />5. Before spraying the second coat, make sure that your ground connection is still attached to bare metal.&nbsp; If your part is grounded through a hook, use a file to remove a tiny area of powder where hook makes contact so that the ground is still touching bare metal.<br /><br /><br />6. Reduce the KV on your powder coating gun by about 50% if possible and spray the second coat.<br /><br /><br />7. If the second coat is the final coat of powder you will be applying to the part, then it is time to put it in the oven and do a full-cure following the second powders curing instructions. Again, remove any masking after the part reaches 200 degrees for best results. If you plan to spray additional coats,do another partial cure and repeat steps 4 through 7 until you reach your final coat and then do a full cure following instructions for the last powder applied. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Mulitple Colors on the Same Part (Two Tone) </b></span></div><br /><br />If you are shooting a two-tone part with multiple colors, the instructions above also apply. The only difference is how you apply the masking. The order in which you shoot the colors really depends on how easy it is to mask one area as opposed to the other. Raised areas are much easier to mask off than recessed areas. The only definitive rule to keep in mind is that red should always be shot last if possible as it has a tendency to bleed through lighter colors, especially white. I will show some examples and how they would be most easily powder coated. It is very important to practice your masking skills. I recommend reading <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html">Masking</a> and <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html">Masking Part II</a> for some tips. <br /><br /><img border="0" src="https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fir-na.amazon-adsystem.com%2Fe%2Fir%3Ft%3Dpowcoathecomg-20%26l%3Das2%26o%3D1%26a%3DB00UCBIX1A&amp;container=blogger&amp;gadget=a&amp;rewriteMime=image%2F*" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a1d640f76f9c15df99c0baf0c650e6e4" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3qHsaq4Seu8/V7YVs1Sr0FI/AAAAAAAACqk/EVpn2x1L4igc-GUGtuF-Q9eoUpjUPF3ZQCLcB/s200/71WOd1bYOxL._SL1500_.jpg" /></a>For the wheels pictured below, the easiest method to coat these would be to shoot the entire wheel in the metallic silver color and do a partial cure. Then mask off the lip, face of the spokes, barrel, and backside of the wheel. Then you would shoot the unmasked areas red. For best results, do another partial cure, and then clear coat the entire wheel. The clear coat helps to smooth any transition lines. When doing two-tones, it is very important to remove any masking well before the full cure is complete, otherwise the edges transition between the two colors will not be a nice, clean, straight line.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffn9c8OwqAI/VbjM3QFbpWI/AAAAAAAACGA/nmrPr58KNBg/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating two toone rim wheel" border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffn9c8OwqAI/VbjM3QFbpWI/AAAAAAAACGA/nmrPr58KNBg/s400/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bwheels.jpeg" title="powder coating two tone rim wheel" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />To do the two tone valve cover below, the easiest method would be to spray the entire valve cover in the gold vein powder coat and do a partial cure. Then spray the entire valve cover in the metallic red and carefully wipe the metallic red from the letters using a damp finger. Then do a partial cure on the metallic red, shoot the entire valve cover with clear and do a full cure. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUfGJ2jBwy0/VbjRBpq2uTI/AAAAAAAACGQ/3UAC00H_JDc/s1600/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bvalve%2Bcover%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coaitng two tone valve cover" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUfGJ2jBwy0/VbjRBpq2uTI/AAAAAAAACGQ/3UAC00H_JDc/s320/two%2Btone%2Bpowder%2Bcoated%2Bvalve%2Bcover%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="powder coaitng two tone valve cover" width="240" /></a></div><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Spraying Multiple Coats -Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="auto" data-ad-slot="9491702330" hidden="" ikw5pd4="" oib0p4j="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br />To powder coat logos as pictured on the Brembo brake caliper below, a vinyl stencil can be used. You would first shoot the entire caliper silver and do a partial cure. Then apply the Brembo vinyl logo and shoot the entire caliper in red, carefully removing the vinyl logo once the caliper reaches 200 degrees in the oven. Then shoot a coat of clear and do a full cure.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFTodotKZ2g/VbjTT58V4CI/AAAAAAAACGg/3ER3efC8vyc/s1600/powder%2Bcoated%2Bbrake%2Bcaliper%2Blogoo%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating custom logos" border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFTodotKZ2g/VbjTT58V4CI/AAAAAAAACGg/3ER3efC8vyc/s320/powder%2Bcoated%2Bbrake%2Bcaliper%2Blogoo%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpeg" title="powder coating custom logos" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D22H26/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=bc0073c2fe76b54a50c5f0b369fe1808" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking easy how to vinyl cutter" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v11eypf7tMg/V7YV-Q8IgWI/AAAAAAAACqo/eZjVZiYygFYnCe6VVWHjLnok5nEw7GBhQCLcB/s320/61lOnX7Z78L._SL1000_.jpg" title="powder coat masking easy how to vinyl cutter" width="320" /></a>If you would like a custom logo or design that would be too difficult to mask free-hand, a custom vinyl stencil is the best way. For more common logos like the Brembo logo above, they can often be ordered online. However, if you want your own custom logos, you can search for a local sign cutting shop and have them cut it out for you. Alternatively, if you are doing lots of custom logos, you can cut out your own stencils using a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D22H26/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003D22H26&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=RQJLBEK4VA7UHBN6">Vinyl Plotter</a></b>. The go-to vinyl for powder coating is <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Oracal-651-Vinyl-Choose-Colors/dp/B00YLNLC9U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472096930&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=oracal+651&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=601bb5b2fddd8c3f2e31cd685a855730">Oracal 651</a></b>. It is not specifically rated for high-temperatures, but it removes cleanly at 200 degrees F. A vinyl plotter can also make short work of masking gasket and mating areas on parts. Just put the gasket surface face down on a scanner and cut out the design on the plotter and you have a perfectly cut out vinyl mask.<br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Fades</span></h4><br />You can also fade one powder coating color into another.&nbsp;&nbsp; This can be done two different ways,&nbsp; The easiest way is to simply spray the first color right up to the point you your fade to start.&nbsp; Then without curing, change the color in your gun and shoot the other color on the opposite side up to the transition line and then lightly spray onto the other color however far you want the fade to go.&nbsp; When doing it this way, the two powders must be of the same chemistry.&nbsp; Meaning TGIC with TGIC, Acrylic with Acrylic, and Epoxy with Epoxy.&nbsp; If you are using powders of different chemistries, the entire part should be sprayed in the first color, then do a partial cure in the oven and add the second color up until the point where you want the fade and then cure.&nbsp; Clear can be applied using each method and it will help the appearance of the fade.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6An9tgNjmL8/VbjZHiM6x8I/AAAAAAAACG4/hTJhQ7pdseA/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bfade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating fade" border="0" height="214" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6An9tgNjmL8/VbjZHiM6x8I/AAAAAAAACG4/hTJhQ7pdseA/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Bfade.jpg" title="powder coating fade" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Following this information and with a little bit of practice, you should be able to apply multiple coats of powder in any configuration you can think of.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;">If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment.&nbsp; Also check out a new section on this site: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" target="_blank">Recommended Powder Coating Supplies</a></b>.&nbsp; It has a lot of quality tools that will help you out in your powder coating journey. </span>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com50tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-26677404610012619592016-09-14T06:51:00.000-07:002017-07-19T21:12:48.575-07:00How to Build a Powder Coating Oven<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYk/xadrQ7JS80M/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to build a powder coating oven diy" border="0" height="361" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYk/xadrQ7JS80M/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" title="how to build a powder coating oven diy" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; When you are powder coating, you will need an oven to cure the finish.&nbsp; You only have so many pre-made oven options at your disposal and they all limit you to smaller parts.&nbsp; A household oven or even a toaster oven are great for smaller parts but you will always be limited by the oven size.&nbsp; If you are interested in a smaller oven, check out the original oven article: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/beginner-ovens.html#.VBmL6-W6PxU" target="_blank">Powder Coating Ovens</a></b>. If you want to start powder coating some large parts, you will either need to spend a lot of money or make your own.&nbsp; In this article, I will be focusing on how to build your own powder coating oven. It may seem intimidating if you have never worked with metal but with the information available on the internet, you can easily tackle this job, save money and have a huge powder coating oven.&nbsp; No welding was required to build the following powder coating oven.&nbsp; This is Part 1 of a 2 part powder coating oven build.&nbsp; See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html#.WLn0GH-mLWB" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II</a></b>.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8401288732" die5d31="" hidden="" onc5cky="" style="display: block;" ujrz1eb="" xmu6son=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>You can build your powder coating oven to the size you need and you can also build in some features to make your powder coating more efficient.&nbsp; This article is a guide to give you an idea of what all is involved and basic oven construction principles.&nbsp; A unique thing about this oven is that absolutely nothing protrudes into the oven space.&nbsp; The entire interior space of the oven is usable.&nbsp; All heating elements, lights, fans, etc. are recessed into the walls.&nbsp; Building the oven this way allows you to build a powder coating rack that tightly fits into the oven with no wasted space.&nbsp; You would do all of your powder coating on the rack, then roll the rack into the oven for curing.&nbsp; This however, does add some complexity and cost of materials to the oven build.&nbsp; You can choose to build your oven like this for maximum space savings or you can go the traditional route, the great thing about building your own oven is that it is completely up to you.&nbsp; This particular oven cost around $1,400 to build.&nbsp; Some money can be saved by not recessing everything as that takes more materials.&nbsp; But plan to spend at least $1,000 for an oven build of this size.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQR5tV6sw38/VAbDco6XNYI/AAAAAAAABY0/ziq4Yay-zEE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="build large powder coating oven diy" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQR5tV6sw38/VAbDco6XNYI/AAAAAAAABY0/ziq4Yay-zEE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" title="build large powder coating oven diy" width="424" /></a></div><br /><h3><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;Features of this Powder Coating Oven</span> </h3><ul><li><b>3.4' Wide x 3.4' Deep x 6.5' Tall</b>&nbsp;</li><li><b>Rivet construction, no welding required</b></li><li><b>20 gauge sheet metal, 16 gauge sheet metal on the floor</b></li><li><b>4 recessed 2000 Watt&nbsp; heating elements (240v outlet)</b></li><li><b>Recessed lighting</b></li><li><b>Recessed convection fan and ducting</b></li><li><b>PID controller</b></li><li><b>Window in door&nbsp; </b></li></ul><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Quick Rundown of Powder Coating Oven Construction and Materials.</span></h3><h3><br /></h3><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrxjSnFvyNA/VAbJuJHaYPI/AAAAAAAABZE/pksoClpKTas/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven frame studs" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrxjSnFvyNA/VAbJuJHaYPI/AAAAAAAABZE/pksoClpKTas/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B12.jpg" title="powder coating oven frame studs" width="148" /></a>The basic construction this and most powder coating ovens is a steel stud and steel track frame which is riveted together.&nbsp; Both sides of the frame will be skinned with sheet metal.&nbsp; This oven uses 20 gauge sheet metal everywhere except for the floor which is 16 gauge sheet metal.&nbsp; Having thicker sheet metal on the floor makes it a little sturdier so you can stand on it.&nbsp; All sheet metal, studs, and track can be purchased locally from your Home Depot, Lowes, or a local metal supply company.&nbsp; You can buy it online as well but shipping costs will likely cancel out any cost savings.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is best to shop around, call some metal supply places in your area and get some quotes.&nbsp;&nbsp; In between the 2 layers of sheet metal will be your insulation. Inside of the oven is where you will put the heating elements, which will be wired to a control box on the outside of the oven.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Supplies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="Powder Coating Supplies" /></a></div><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Let's Get Started - Framing Materials &amp; Tools</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>We will be starting with the framing.&nbsp; The framing for this oven will all be made with <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-5-8-in-x-10-ft-25-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wall-Framing-Stud-726330/202836663" target="_blank">galvanized steel studs</a>.&nbsp; These are the same studs used to build homes.&nbsp; They are available at both Home Depot and Lowes for about $5 each.&nbsp; They are 3 5/8" wide x 1 5/8" thick and are available in 10' lengths or 8' lengths.&nbsp; It is best to buy a bunch of these to begin with.&nbsp; You don't have to get to scientific with it figuring out exactly how many you will need, you can purchase more as you go along. You can also use a combination of steel studs and steel track. Steel track is very similar to steel studs except that they do not have a lip on the inside of the stud.&nbsp; This allows the steel studs to fit into the track.&nbsp; Working with these is pretty easy as they are pretty thin (25 gauge).&nbsp; They are easy to drill and they can be cut with tin snips or a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-14-inch-Abrasive-Chop-Saw/dp/B0058KIGQM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471608174&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=chop+saw+milwaukee&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=70d4286e9e0101e6704080c3dd389872">chop saw</a>.&nbsp; Since you will be cutting a lot of studs, I recommend a at least a decent pair of snips like these: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYFY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00009OYFY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=C3VV3D6EPBUIGPI4" target="_blank">Stanley Straight Aviation Snips</a>.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/PSSD402-Blind-Rivet-063--125-grip/dp/B00M1XJD48/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474988765&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PSSD402&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a28abfc2304e189f9cdaa8cbcd56eee7" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder coating oven rivets" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-weFPCyl_zY0/V7bxdZGH32I/AAAAAAAACs8/jhRWp4tgXMAnqST5JMmUZ5vwiJb7ws2bACEw/s200/31PJdkBTgIL.jpg" title="" width="118" /></a>The framing will all be held together with rivets... LOTS of rivets.&nbsp; Rivets are really easy to use and they are cheap. You first drill a hole, then with a rivet gun, you place a rivet into the hole, squeeze the trigger and you are done.&nbsp; You are probably familiar with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063Y1F6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00063Y1F6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=44LZYDVXC4HJ4RZR" target="_blank">hand rivet gun</a>, but I STRONGLY recommend a pneumatic rivet gun if you have an air compressor (you have read my article about <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html" target="_blank"><b>How to Buy an Air Compressor</b></a> right?).&nbsp; A pneumatic rivet gun will save you tons of time and you you'll still have use of your hands at the end of the day.&nbsp; Again, I recommend a decent pneumatic rivet gun, this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQ9H4W/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000MQ9H4W&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2XNA5J25SITFANWA" target="_blank">Astro Pneumatic Air Riveter</a> offers a good price/performance ratio. It is by no means an industrial tool but you will pay several hundred dollars for a high end pneumatic rivet gun.&nbsp; You will need lots of rivets to go with whatever rivet gun you decide to use.&nbsp; The most important thing about rivets is to make sure they are the same type of metal as what you are working with.&nbsp; Since this is a steel oven build, you will need steel rivets.&nbsp; Also important with rivets is to drill the appropriately sized hole.&nbsp; A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/PSSD402-Blind-Rivet-063--125-grip/dp/B00M1XJD48/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474988765&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PSSD402&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a28abfc2304e189f9cdaa8cbcd56eee7">pack of 1000 1/8" diameter x 1/8" grip steel pop rivets</a> should get you through the oven build with a few left over.&nbsp; These will allow you to rivet stacks of metal with a minimum thickness of .13" and a maximum thickness of .125".&nbsp; Make sure to adjust accordingly if you are using thinner or heavier gauge steel studs and sheet metal. The 1/8" rivets mentioned require a #30 Drill bit for best fit. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQ9H4W/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3920110ac1447943d910768e95eff6b6" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder coating oven rivet gun" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7skvOGjGDKc/V7bxdtDQsCI/AAAAAAAACtE/hko-ovzCnB0flRq7SWHe32BFSA9NcrKSACEw/s200/41rf1O3w9iL.jpg" title="" width="168" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Now that you have your rivets, studs, you can start to build the floor frame.&nbsp; Make sure you cut and measure the floor to exactly the size you want your oven to be.&nbsp; You're walls will sit on top of the floor.&nbsp; When making the square section of the floor, you will overlap the studs so that they sit inside of each other on the corners.&nbsp; Once you have the studs how in place, you can keep them there with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBN/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00004SBBN&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SJZYZHJQCBIM6L2Y" target="_blank">locking c-clamp</a>. You will then rivet where they overlap on top and bottom (see the red dots in the pictures below for rivet locations).&nbsp; Start with 1 rivet per corner so that the studs are able to pivot.&nbsp; Use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007A29UC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0007A29UC&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=QLLAJLEVBFYR6HZB" target="_blank">speed square</a> to square up all of your corners before riveting into place.&nbsp; After you have all 4 sides secured like below, you can then go back and add more rivets to each corner.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16CN0-n1goU/VAbdBy584AI/AAAAAAAABZg/YIwn9LcRAgM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B1a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Rivet Studs" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16CN0-n1goU/VAbdBy584AI/AAAAAAAABZg/YIwn9LcRAgM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B1a.JPG" title="Powder Coating Oven Rivet Studs" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />Once you have the the 4 sides of the floor done, you will add more studs for support using the same procedure as above.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIMVfTr0c4/VAbd1_xyOGI/AAAAAAAABZo/TuEZbVt-utc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Rivet Stud Frame" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIMVfTr0c4/VAbd1_xyOGI/AAAAAAAABZo/TuEZbVt-utc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B3.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Rivet Stud Frame" width="640" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8401288732" die5d31="" hidden="" onc5cky="" style="display: block;" ujrz1eb="" xmu6son=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>The same procedure is used for the walls, below is the back wall.&nbsp; The side walls are made the same way, just make sure you measure and account for the size of the back wall. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bkNJbth638A/VAbeUyygttI/AAAAAAAABZw/uo1VszP3R5E/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Frame" border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bkNJbth638A/VAbeUyygttI/AAAAAAAABZw/uo1VszP3R5E/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B4.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Frame" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><br />You will then place the walls on top of the floor, one at a time, and rivet them to the floor: <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JlA1IDyWEzs/VAbfukSEnhI/AAAAAAAABZ8/aBp7J4aNgTo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JlA1IDyWEzs/VAbfukSEnhI/AAAAAAAABZ8/aBp7J4aNgTo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B6.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Once you have the back wall in place and have constructed the side walls, you will put them in place and rivet them to the floor and to the back wall.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0116elk1jSc/VAbgbXK6MOI/AAAAAAAABaE/7lyflKuXNzU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0116elk1jSc/VAbgbXK6MOI/AAAAAAAABaE/7lyflKuXNzU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B7.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="238" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AeT6Q4U6Nbw/VAbgzGYsh5I/AAAAAAAABaM/SS3DRDcQAGQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AeT6Q4U6Nbw/VAbgzGYsh5I/AAAAAAAABaM/SS3DRDcQAGQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B10.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="238" /></a></div><br /><br />Then assemble the ceiling the same way you assembled the floor:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrxjSnFvyNA/VAbJuJHaYPI/AAAAAAAABZE/pksoClpKTas/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrxjSnFvyNA/VAbJuJHaYPI/AAAAAAAABZE/pksoClpKTas/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B12.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="475" /></a></div><br />At this point is where the recessed heating elements come into play.&nbsp; The heating elements have their own boxed in sections in the walls but every square inch of the powder coating oven must be insulated.&nbsp; The hollow place between the studs is where the insulation would normally go, however since the heating elements will be taking up that hollow space in these boxed in sections, another boxed in section of insulation must be added to the outside of the oven where the heating elements are recessed.&nbsp; If you do not plan on recessing heating elements and other items in the oven, then you will exclude these boxed in sections and just add in more support studs in the walls above before riveting them to the floor.<br /><br />Here you can see the boxed in sections on the bottom for the heating elements along with more support studs in the walls:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JwPI02z4tgM/VAbkOlDEOnI/AAAAAAAABaY/PLHor--rNzE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JwPI02z4tgM/VAbkOlDEOnI/AAAAAAAABaY/PLHor--rNzE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B13.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="475" />&nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIx-B5fh7mk/VAbkOkm7uXI/AAAAAAAABac/Wf1AWpnmJA0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIx-B5fh7mk/VAbkOkm7uXI/AAAAAAAABac/Wf1AWpnmJA0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B17.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Wall Frame" width="475" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Skinning the Inside with Sheet Metal</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>Once the structure is framed up, you then will begin skinning it will sheet metal.&nbsp; Sheet metal can be purchased at your local Home Depot or Lowes but if you go through a metal supply company, most of them have will cut the sheet metal to your specifications.&nbsp; You will need long straight cuts here and metal companies have gigantic brakes that will make short work of it. I recommend galvanized steel sheet metal which will help keep your oven rust free.&nbsp; As far as what thickness to buy, this particular oven uses 20 gauge everywhere except the floor which is 16 gauge.&nbsp; When choosing the thickness, you will want to stay in the 16 gauge to 26 gauge range.&nbsp; Each has its benefits and drawbacks.&nbsp; Using a thinner gauge is cheaper and will allow the oven to heat up faster.&nbsp; Thicker gauge is more expensive, but sturdier and will hold the heat better once the oven it is heated up, which will help the oven stay at the correct temp in colder climates.<br /><br />The first layer of 16 gauge is laid down on the inside of the floor and riveted into place, also additional stud supports are added to the bottom.&nbsp; Do not skimp on the rivets here, the sheet metal ties all of the framing together.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKVxKfVY0T4/VAbnIme7w9I/AAAAAAAABas/eAncw11tHg0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Floor Frame" border="0" height="473" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKVxKfVY0T4/VAbnIme7w9I/AAAAAAAABas/eAncw11tHg0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B18.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Floor Frame" width="640" /></a></div><br />The entire inside of the oven is now skinned:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0RQm22NYG8w/VAbnyDqqgUI/AAAAAAAABa0/d_f2SLQFbxc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0RQm22NYG8w/VAbnyDqqgUI/AAAAAAAABa0/d_f2SLQFbxc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B21.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build" width="475" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8401288732" die5d31="" hidden="" onc5cky="" style="display: block;" ujrz1eb="" xmu6son=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>After everything is skinned, the 4 cutouts for the heating elements are made using a Dremel.&nbsp; A <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSOY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0002STSOY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2HWESQM4WB63VY4P" target="_blank">pneumatic cut-off tool</a> would also work here.&nbsp; Make sure to mark all of your cuts accurately with a straight-edge and a sharpie.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DtK0VDpHwss/VAbo8nZmVyI/AAAAAAAABa8/zc9nRWvabWY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build heating element space" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DtK0VDpHwss/VAbo8nZmVyI/AAAAAAAABa8/zc9nRWvabWY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B26.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build heating element space" width="296" /></a></div><br /><br /><h3><br /></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">CONVECTION BLOWER &amp; DUCTING</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>This oven will have a convection fan on the top that will circulate the air from the top of the oven to the bottom.&nbsp; This helps equalize temperatures throughout the entire oven.&nbsp; Here you can see the duct work inside the wall of the oven that brings air from the top to the bottom.&nbsp; These slim rectangular types of ducting are called <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPC02Y6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BPC02Y6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=Q6FH5CJGTPWCR6JR" target="_blank">stack ducts</a></b>.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INzcaceATk8/VAbrhEsLBHI/AAAAAAAABbM/fFLzXdlY0jQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven build" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INzcaceATk8/VAbrhEsLBHI/AAAAAAAABbM/fFLzXdlY0jQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B36.jpg" title="Powder coating oven build" width="297" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvi5Vydmh-I/VAbq5unwpRI/AAAAAAAABbE/SDMtfNPzTMw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven circulation duct" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvi5Vydmh-I/VAbq5unwpRI/AAAAAAAABbE/SDMtfNPzTMw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B32.jpg" title="powder coating oven circulation duct" width="297" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />This is where the air will exit the duct into the bottom of the oven:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl2HhCoFfsc/VAbsM6Syu_I/AAAAAAAABbU/o0MDQoiWYSs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven air cirulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl2HhCoFfsc/VAbsM6Syu_I/AAAAAAAABbU/o0MDQoiWYSs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B39.jpg" title="powder coating oven air cirulation" width="297" /></a></div><br /><br />This is the <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H4KE1I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001H4KE1I&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=NUGKMU7CRVNCF2TI" target="_blank">Dayton 310cfm High-Temp Blower</a></b> that will be used on top of the oven to circulate the air:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H4KE1I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=964a72924fa10958793bd580148ff007" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY powder coating oven circulating fan convection" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j6XfKIsMNoA/V7byPUgVFBI/AAAAAAAACtY/gVMae0ndIVUWObrV0Ogh3zcWiAonT9KMgCLcB/s320/41hFtaHPrgL.jpg" title="" width="300" /></a></div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uOAnOgCD43c/VAbuCjUIklI/AAAAAAAABbg/pDIbEtvAm9w/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uOAnOgCD43c/VAbuCjUIklI/AAAAAAAABbg/pDIbEtvAm9w/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B71.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower" width="238" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here you can see how the ducting was wrapped around from the side wall to the top of the oven to the fan, and you can see the duct elbow partially visible on the top. The same metal studs used to build the oven frame were used to finish the ducting to the blower.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNlsDdp5gA8/VA2FX1Rg4NI/AAAAAAAABbw/HI0waW8U-Ms/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNlsDdp5gA8/VA2FX1Rg4NI/AAAAAAAABbw/HI0waW8U-Ms/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B102.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUTGPPrlaXo/VA2FYDAOKdI/AAAAAAAABb4/xQ-zfZYvBcQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUTGPPrlaXo/VA2FYDAOKdI/AAAAAAAABb4/xQ-zfZYvBcQ/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B115.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtC_47ustmA/VA2FYO1sc5I/AAAAAAAABb0/z6z2Crxov5I/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven convection duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtC_47ustmA/VA2FYO1sc5I/AAAAAAAABb0/z6z2Crxov5I/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B116.jpg" title="powder coating oven convection duct" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lMQ91zTjUL4/VA2FYzTtnEI/AAAAAAAABcE/XMW5hCrLW7g/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lMQ91zTjUL4/VA2FYzTtnEI/AAAAAAAABcE/XMW5hCrLW7g/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B118.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />Then <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0002UEN1A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=VN5NIXVY4LK3U7ZU" target="_blank">High Temp Sealant</a> was used on the duct work for an air-tight seal.&nbsp; This sealant is rated for 650 degrees F.&nbsp; Then the top sheet metal duct piece was riveted into place.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bzrkXDhlgmc/VA2IVTDQBPI/AAAAAAAABcU/VscuxOi36Bg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bzrkXDhlgmc/VA2IVTDQBPI/AAAAAAAABcU/VscuxOi36Bg/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B120.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cej-3wS45ig/VA2IVSl2rHI/AAAAAAAABcY/3jCzrRb9shk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cej-3wS45ig/VA2IVSl2rHI/AAAAAAAABcY/3jCzrRb9shk/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B121.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBzrchHI5Co/VA2IVlbpr9I/AAAAAAAABcc/HDYDm0NjEEQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower duct" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cBzrchHI5Co/VA2IVlbpr9I/AAAAAAAABcc/HDYDm0NjEEQ/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B122.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower duct" /></a></div><br /><br />Here is a picture of the interior top-side of the oven where the inlet for the blower is:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zNCQTWLCW5E/VA2I9-VRleI/AAAAAAAABcs/-seHEpDU5cc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven blower" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zNCQTWLCW5E/VA2I9-VRleI/AAAAAAAABcs/-seHEpDU5cc/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B111.jpg" title="powder coating oven blower" /></a></div><br />And that completes the convection part of the oven.&nbsp; As you can see, the air is pulled up through the top of the oven and is ducted back down the side wall and into the bottom of the oven through the use of rectangular metal ducting.&nbsp; This will equalize the temperature throughout the oven.&nbsp; This is very important when powder coating, an oven with no circulating air will have hot spots 50 degrees higher than another part of the oven. <br /><br /><h3><br /></h3><h3><br /></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Lighting</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>This particular oven build has 3 recessed lights in the ceiling.&nbsp; By recessing them, they will never get in the way of powder coated items inside of the oven.&nbsp; Recessing them does take some extra steps and parts as you can see below.&nbsp; If you choose not to recess them, all you would need is the light fixture and the bulbs.&nbsp; <br />This will be the finished product before being installed on the top of the oven, there are 3 of these in this build:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_qyyjHv8OE/VA2OXlOwLrI/AAAAAAAABc8/ofr46H7c5YY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B84.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_qyyjHv8OE/VA2OXlOwLrI/AAAAAAAABc8/ofr46H7c5YY/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B84.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="478" /></a></div><br />These are the parts needed to make each light assembly:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7IM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00002N7IM&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=E2ORI5SK4ROEJOKK" target="_blank">Porcelain Lampholder</a> (1 per light assembly)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7IM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=664593e5cff03c8044ac103624dfe368" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder coat oven lighting" border="0" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRbmvIUQWNo/V7bxd6AwcPI/AAAAAAAACtU/pTtPFTUfkqYJJhPBv0nQ7ldEZw5DufEkgCEw/s200/61y5i7OyyKL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00002N7IM" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RVSO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00006RVSO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LW34CUFM4A3V4G5J" target="_blank">40 watt Appliance Bulbs</a> (1 per light assembly)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RVSO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6c92bed48beb865267a0771d9106c77b" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder coat oven lighting bulbs" border="0" height="177" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mZuuGQyvqnE/V7bxd77gODI/AAAAAAAACtU/GunnTrz5YmMrxrPaV8ctieKH3fLPQAa6wCEw/s200/61EGDZsub8L._SL1173_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00006RVSO" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00BC3R994" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC3R994/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BC3R994&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5F4CAWBPJOZ2TTL4"><br /></a> <br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC3R994/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BC3R994&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5F4CAWBPJOZ2TTL4"><br /></a> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC3R994/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BC3R994&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5F4CAWBPJOZ2TTL4" target="_blank">6 inch Duct Cap without crimp</a> (2 per light assembly)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC3R994/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8e314d2ff4b77c8ec3877d77e9cc00f7" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY powder coat oven lighting " border="0" height="121" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XUpujbG_7rE/V7bxdV1-_4I/AAAAAAAACtU/jCZ8GFAIweEvdH9RxiORhZzDejwhGN-BgCEw/s200/31sF5l%252BAQJL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0085UZCMI" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZCMI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0085UZCMI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=BNLTGGIKSZHIS3BH"><br /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZCMI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0085UZCMI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=BNLTGGIKSZHIS3BH"><br /></a> <br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZCMI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0085UZCMI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=BNLTGGIKSZHIS3BH"><br /></a> <br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Duct-Connector-6-DAC6C/dp/B019FG5NSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475047791&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr3&amp;keywords=duct+flex+connector+6%22&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=bf020ca3c184eac1f840dd3b0614e1ec" target="_blank">6 Inch Duct Flex Connector</a> (1 per light assembly)<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Duct-Connector-6-DAC6C/dp/B019FG5NSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475047791&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr3&amp;keywords=duct+flex+connector+6%22&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=bf020ca3c184eac1f840dd3b0614e1ec"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Duct-Connector-6-DAC6C/dp/B019FG5NSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475047791&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr3&amp;keywords=duct+flex+connector+6%22&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=bf020ca3c184eac1f840dd3b0614e1ec" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wt7EhtlgOzs/V-ty7bfapKI/AAAAAAAAC2w/moSfYqvCfmE3qpu6ctxEhNQCd00HYg-ngCLcB/s200/71DV7R-EAlL._SL1500_.jpg" width="200" /></a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />To make the light assembly, you will install the porcelain lampholder onto the inside of the 6 inch duct cap.&nbsp; Drill&nbsp; holes for the lampholder mounting hardware and drill a center hole to have access to the wiring terminals.&nbsp; You then place the end cap with lamp holder onto the splined Duct Flex connector.&nbsp; Then you frame the assembly you just made with the steel studs that have been used throughout the oven build.&nbsp; The bulbs and lampholder are completely capable of withstanding the 450 degree temps your oven will be operating at.&nbsp; Here is a picture of the backside of the completed assembly.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tyOodMA5bZw/VA2RsYyYljI/AAAAAAAABdI/iDysvmgpF8Q/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B82.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tyOodMA5bZw/VA2RsYyYljI/AAAAAAAABdI/iDysvmgpF8Q/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B82.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="478" /></a></div><br />Here are the the 3 lamp assemblies riveted into place.&nbsp; Before placing them, you will need to cutout holes for the duct caps in the ceiling sheet metal.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hipei-n87kw/VA2UO_o8JaI/AAAAAAAABdU/pjtKetg1fnQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hipei-n87kw/VA2UO_o8JaI/AAAAAAAABdU/pjtKetg1fnQ/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B124.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="616" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8401288732" die5d31="" hidden="" onc5cky="" style="display: block;" ujrz1eb="" xmu6son=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>You can see the duct caps with holes cut in them placed through the sheet metal onto the light assemblies.&nbsp; This gives a nice finished look.&nbsp; The ceiling is completed now with the 3 recessed lights and blower fan.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiIaRsBPfiA/VA2UuyPt4tI/AAAAAAAABdc/dbeuzQY8ogo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven recessed lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiIaRsBPfiA/VA2UuyPt4tI/AAAAAAAABdc/dbeuzQY8ogo/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B123.jpg" title="powder coating oven recessed lighting" width="604" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;">Insulation</span></h3><h3 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>Every wall of the oven needs to be insulated.&nbsp; The insulation is responsible for containing the heat inside of the oven.&nbsp; Also, without the insulation, the exterior walls of the oven would get extremely hot.&nbsp; The common choices of insulation for a powder coating oven are mineral wool or fiberglass.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JWM9S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0032JWM9S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=7IM4AOVFFK5CO6A2" target="_blank">Mineral wool insulation</a> has a higher temperature rating, however it comes at a higher price.&nbsp; If you plan on curing ceramic coating in your oven, I would choose mineral wool because of the higher temperatures that ceramic coatings need to cure at.&nbsp; If you only plan on doing powder coating, you can use fiberglass insulation and save some money.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />This oven build uses <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8TA93K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00L8TA93K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=USS2GCO654JEDLMJ" target="_blank">unfaced R13 fiberglass insulation</a> throughout.&nbsp; 2 Batts of insulation were used with some left over.&nbsp; Insulation like this is available online or locally at Home Depot or Lowes.&nbsp; You will need to put insulation in between every stud.&nbsp; You will need to cut the insulationt to fit in any odd-sized spaces.&nbsp; The easiest way to cut insulation is with a sharp utility knife using a 2x4 as a straight edge.&nbsp; When working with insulation, you will want to be wearing full safety gear including gloves, safety goggles, dust mask, longsleeve shirt, pants, and close-toed shoes.&nbsp; It is very itchy stuff and even if you are wearing all of that, you will undoubtedly still be itchy afterwards.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--W629_4Hy5A/VA2b8kj9m3I/AAAAAAAABds/rM9KuGryDJM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--W629_4Hy5A/VA2b8kj9m3I/AAAAAAAABds/rM9KuGryDJM/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B52.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UUqzNpE71k4/VA2b9jrtnuI/AAAAAAAABd0/_ejxSisoS0M/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UUqzNpE71k4/VA2b9jrtnuI/AAAAAAAABd0/_ejxSisoS0M/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B53.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXwnpKXqqaQ/VA2ejD-EaBI/AAAAAAAABec/IgPWReMVnNo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXwnpKXqqaQ/VA2ejD-EaBI/AAAAAAAABec/IgPWReMVnNo/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B127.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><br />As you can see in the above pictures, the cutout's for the recessed heating elements are not insulated.&nbsp; These will be the hottest parts of the oven, so of course, they will need to be insulated.&nbsp; This is where the oven expands outwards.&nbsp; With the use of individual insulation panels on the outside of the oven, every thing is able to be recessed, yet still insulated.&nbsp; The areas of the oven that will need these insulated panels are the 4 heating elements, the duct-work on the back on the oven, and basically the entire topside of the oven. All of the insulated panels were framed using steel studs and rivets.&nbsp; However, before these are installed, you will need to install the heating elements and skin the outside of the oven with sheet metal.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PpB8rc1FwkA/VA2dYO_GeYI/AAAAAAAABeA/GucWU3BDr2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B66.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PpB8rc1FwkA/VA2dYO_GeYI/AAAAAAAABeA/GucWU3BDr2k/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B66.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLRE9p8bFWs/VA2dZaGdzPI/AAAAAAAABeI/9hjRGWFvyVQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLRE9p8bFWs/VA2dZaGdzPI/AAAAAAAABeI/9hjRGWFvyVQ/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B68.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1VLCG0vxxSY/VA2dZYBseGI/AAAAAAAABeM/4bORL17-iBE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B69.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating oven insulation" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1VLCG0vxxSY/VA2dZYBseGI/AAAAAAAABeM/4bORL17-iBE/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B69.jpg" title="Powder coating oven insulation" /></a></div><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Heating Elements</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>This oven uses 4 <a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44K5013-Oven-Heating-Element/dp/B003BIGD5O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471607741&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr2&amp;keywords=2000+watt+heating+element+oven&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=055bfc3c7cbbdfb5b0344f7fe69990e8"><b>2000 watt heating elements</b></a> for a total of 8000 watts.&nbsp; You can purchase heating elements online or you can salvage them from old household ovens, however they are are relatively cheap brand new.&nbsp; There are a variety of oven heating elements available.&nbsp; Standard oven heating elements can range anywhere from 2000 watts to 3600 watts.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB44K5013-Oven-Heating-Element/dp/B003BIGD5O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471607741&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr2&amp;keywords=2000+watt+heating+element+oven&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=055bfc3c7cbbdfb5b0344f7fe69990e8"><img alt="DIY powder coating oven heating element 2000 watt" border="0" height="252" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E26qa1kt7Qc/V7b0VkYlUYI/AAAAAAAACtw/TwdOlqb9gYA0mB44ILgk9dkW7yKwzvwEwCEw/s320/31knnI5vIdL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br />To determine what wattage you need for your specific powder coating oven size, a general rule is that you should have 100 to 150 watts worth of heating element for every cubic foot of interior oven space.&nbsp; 150 watts per cubic foot is ideal.&nbsp; The interior space of this oven is ~75 cubic feet so with 8000 total watts, that works out to about 106.5 watts per cubic feet. If you live in a colder climate, you should aim for 150 watts per cubic feet. <br /><br />You can look at this <a href="http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html?roomwidth=4&amp;roomwidthunit=feet&amp;roomlength=4&amp;roomlengthunit=feet&amp;ceilingheight=6&amp;ceilingheightunit=feet&amp;insulation=good&amp;temperature=400&amp;temperatureunit=f&amp;calctype=heat&amp;x=33&amp;y=15" target="_blank">BTU calculator</a>, although it is not extremely accurate.&nbsp; To use the calculator, you enter in the interior dimensions of your oven (inches), the average ambient temperature where you live, your desired temperature (Fahrenheit), and your predicted total heating element wattage. It will then tell you how long it will take for the oven to reach the desired temp based on your criteria. It is not an extremely accurate method, but it will give you a ballpark figure. Just keep in mind 100-150 watts per cubic feet while using the calculator.<br /><br />Below, you can see all 4 heating elements installed in the oven.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YaDL-wwEA/VA2oTt38GUI/AAAAAAAABes/OtGGDF_nq28/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B97.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating elements" border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YaDL-wwEA/VA2oTt38GUI/AAAAAAAABes/OtGGDF_nq28/s640/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B97.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating elements" /></a></div><br />The rest of this oven build is located here: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II</a></b>.&nbsp; If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section below.<br /><br /><br />&nbsp; <br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8401288732" die5d31="" hidden="" onc5cky="" style="display: block;" ujrz1eb="" xmu6son=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com113tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-76459806123423848392016-05-26T00:35:00.002-07:002016-10-02T22:54:11.274-07:00Plumbing Your Air Compressor<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div bg9ck9t="" bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ojei2s6=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Plumbing serves a couple of purposes when it comes to your air compressor. Not only does it allow the air to get from point A to point B in your shop or garage, but it can also help to cool the air which can reduce moisture. This is very important for powder coating and sandblasting, as well as any other pneumatic tool you may use including HVLP paint guns and standard air tools. The material you choose for your air lines and the way it is laid out can have have a drastic effect in the amount of moisture coming out at the end of your air hose as well as the CFM provided. This article will help you decide how to set up the air lines in your shop or garage.&nbsp;</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZI14L5FS6I/Vv-DV6eQwxI/AAAAAAAACX4/JqOTTzU2rdE48FE4fjRMMg366x2u6wHPg/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bplumbing.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="routing plumbing for air compressor " border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZI14L5FS6I/Vv-DV6eQwxI/AAAAAAAACX4/JqOTTzU2rdE48FE4fjRMMg366x2u6wHPg/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bplumbing.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Plumbing Your Air Compressor - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="9738421136" hidden="" ojei2s6="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>&nbsp;<a name='more'></a></b></span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>AIR LINE LAYOUT</b></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;">There are a few basic guidelines when setting up your air compressor plumbing.&nbsp; Most of these guidelines are for efficiency and ease of use, however some are for safety.&nbsp; It is very important that your air compressor plumbing is safe.&nbsp; A burst pipe can be very dangerous&nbsp; or even deadly when it comes to compressed air.&nbsp; If you do not feel comfortable designing or installing your air compressor plumbing yourself, it is best to have a professional do it.<br /><b>Disclaimer:</b> This website and its owners are not responsible for any injuries or damages incurred from installing or using compressed air systems.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />To help design your air compressor piping layout, also read <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.V0avbr61iW9"><b>How to Dry Compressed Air</b></a>.<br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0299de6c6d102d94334d52a73a27981c" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0299de6c6d102d94334d52a73a27981c" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NIWLp7DmhGw/V7YOiIuQ2SI/AAAAAAAACok/ICpNym20WKkKTULQb7FLeD-Cj0ZYeO6bwCLcB/s1600/81xdcKXu5jL._SL1500_%2B%2528Custom%2529%2B%2528Custom%2529%2B%2528Custom%2529%2B%2528Custom%2529.jpg" title="air comperssor safetey ball valve" /></a><b>1.</b></span> There should be a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5ab267ec649fc7d9d71a86017f028e86"><b>ball valve</b></a> right at the outlet of the air compressor.&nbsp; This allows you to shut the air off for the entire system. If your air compressor plumbing ever gets damaged and bursts, you can shut off the ball valve and only the air in air lines will be able to escape instead of having to wait for your entire air compressor to empty.&nbsp; I shut off this ball valve whenever I will be out of the garage for more than an hour. It is very easy and cheap insurance.&nbsp; It also allows you to make repairs or changes on your air lines without needing to drain the whole air compressor tank. The internal diameter of this ball valve should match the rest of your air lines.&nbsp; If you use 1/2" air lines, then use a 1/2" ball valve.&nbsp; Most outlets for air compressors are larger than you'll need so you will also need an appropriately sized reducer for your ball valve.&nbsp; A male x female ball valve is ideal since the outlet of your compressor is female and the outlet of the air hose is male. </div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459590439&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr3&amp;keywords=air+hose+leader+1/2+air+stainless+whip&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=eadeafb79274321a6526d6b74ca07fe3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459590439&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr3&amp;keywords=air+hose+leader+1/2+air+stainless+whip&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=eadeafb79274321a6526d6b74ca07fe3" border="0" height="151" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xCrcI23NClQ/V7YP_SlCUWI/AAAAAAAACo8/eThhJNR0crA_LFqxu2UhSv5Fdjc7aZm0gCLcB/s200/61sW9Un8VmL._SL1500_.jpg" title="air compressor lead in hose" width="200" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.</b></span> If you are using a hard material as your air line such as copper or iron, there must be a soft connection from your air compressor to the pipe.&nbsp; Air compressors create a lot of vibrations and if it is directly connected to your piping, all of the vibrations can lead to stresses in the pipes and possibly failure.&nbsp; Instead, after the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5ab267ec649fc7d9d71a86017f028e86"><b>ball valve</b></a>, you should install a short piece or air hose to connect to your piping.&nbsp; This short piece of hose is called a whip or<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-46362-2-Inch-3-Foot-Rubber/dp/B00Z1K6YS6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459590439&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr3&amp;keywords=air+hose+leader+1%2F2+air+stainless+whip&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e3326a9c6ac8b4d15577f79ba0e7c21d">lead-in hose</a></b> and it serves to insulate your piping from air compressor vibrations. These can also be <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Connector-compressor-stainless-braided/dp/B004S4FEE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d6367875f195436f8bec50e6ffd28053">braided stainless</a></b> to resist the heat from the air compressor. In the picture below, you can see the air compressor outlet reducer, ball valve, and lead-in hose.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FmxAyZn6w/Vv-kRmDUo2I/AAAAAAAACY0/g3x26SFOzXAA4IgTKS3N0yJI5CTiKflDg/s1600/DSC_0207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor shut off ball valve with lead-in hose whip" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FmxAyZn6w/Vv-kRmDUo2I/AAAAAAAACY0/g3x26SFOzXAA4IgTKS3N0yJI5CTiKflDg/s400/DSC_0207.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.</b></span>&nbsp; Your piping should be sized appropriately based on the CFM output of your air compressor and the length of pipe you will be running. A drop in pressure can be expected through any pipe, but having a pipe that is too small in diameter for the length of the run required can lead to too much pressure drop. Below you fill find a chart that will help you determine what diameter piping you should use.&nbsp; For most home powder coaters or shops, you'll most likely be using 1/2", 3/4", or 1" piping. When using larger diameter pipe like 3/4" or 1", the entire system does not need to be this size. It is acceptable to do the horizontal loop in the larger size and then neck down to 1/2" for the drops.&nbsp; It is okay to size your pipe larger than needed without any negative effects, except cost. Some benefits of larger diameter piping is that it increases the overall capacity of your air compressor and it provides more surface area to the air, allowing the air to transfer more heat into the piping so it can cool down more quickly.&nbsp; I personally use a very minimal amount of pipe for my compressed air system.&nbsp; I have a two car garage with a 60 gallon air compressor outputting about 12cfm@90psi.&nbsp; My piping run is about 25 feet and I use 1/2" diameter copper pipe, however, I could have used 3/4" diameter pipe as well. The only reason I didn't was to keep costs down.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LC7sONrscOM/Vv-chGVevII/AAAAAAAACYY/S4m78IpbwpM5_vJnsBjOP2_-rxfqVbvZw/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bsize.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor piping pressure drop " border="0" height="336" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LC7sONrscOM/Vv-chGVevII/AAAAAAAACYY/S4m78IpbwpM5_vJnsBjOP2_-rxfqVbvZw/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bsize.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b><span style="font-size: large;">4.</span> </b>You should aim to use as few elbows, Tee's, and connections as possible.&nbsp; Every single fitting you use contributes to pressure losses in your compressed air system and these should also be considered when choosing your piping size.&nbsp; If you know you are going to need a lot of bends due to the layout of your space, then it is best to go up at least one size in pipe. The table below shows the pressure drop through some common compressed air fittings based on CFM and pipe diameter. (ELL refers to elbows). <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC_dQZZTEto/Vv-e3a5cIKI/AAAAAAAACYk/kzF8DbpUcIs3pbF1SKu_VAVhQbgOYogOQ/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpipe%2Bpressure%2Bloss%2Bbends%2Btees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor pipe size" border="0" height="284" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC_dQZZTEto/Vv-e3a5cIKI/AAAAAAAACYk/kzF8DbpUcIs3pbF1SKu_VAVhQbgOYogOQ/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpipe%2Bpressure%2Bloss%2Bbends%2Btees.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></center><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></center><span style="font-size: large;"><b>5.</b></span> The horizontal piping running around your space should not be completely level and instead should be sloped either away from or towards your air compressor.&nbsp; The choice of which way the pipes should slope has been debated about since the beginning of time so I will leave the option up to you.&nbsp; My train of thought is that it is best to slope away from the compressor with the flow of air and towards <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sharpe-6950-Model-Control-Filter/dp/B000TRQQ02/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460110091&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=air+compressor+filter+sharpe&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=50241993766555c3a08e3bfbb0927e26"><b>moisture filter</b></a> or <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=57a958064fe5f7a431c20a66683f9f73">drain</a></b>.&nbsp; The important thing is that the pipe slopes, ideally about 1" every 50 feet.&nbsp; The point of this is that you do not want water sitting stagnant anywhere in the pipes and this is a possibility if the pipes were all level.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>6.</b></span> Design your system so that there are no low-spots where water can collect. Air compressor piping should all run from the top down so that gravity can assist water downwards where it can be collected or drained from the system. Horizontal pipes should be run overhead with vertical drops running down to the air outlets.&nbsp; These vertical pipes are called drops and these are where you will connect your filters, air hoses, etc. The amount of drops you have is a personal preference.&nbsp; A shop with multiple workers and a lot of area should have a lot more drops than a home garage. Just keep in mind, that every drop you have should have its own particle/moisture filter to catch any moisture of debris before it runs into your air hoses so there is a higher cost associated with each drop you decide to add.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>7.</b></span>&nbsp; Drops should all run off the top of the horizontal pipe and then curve back down.&nbsp; The exception to this is the last drop unless you have a closed loop system.&nbsp; What this means, is that wherever you want a drop, you should have a Tee coming pointing upwards on the horizontal pipe, then two elbows to coming from the Tee to get it pointed downward again, and then you can have your drop. Because you make your air hose connections to the drops, it is best to minimize the amount of water that can enter the drops.&nbsp; With the drops coming off the top of the horizontal run, most of the water in the horizontal run will remain in the horizontal run instead of running down towards your drops.&nbsp; Notice in the picture below, how each drop runs off the top of the horizontal run except for the last one.&nbsp; The last one is where most of the water will collect and it can be drained from the system with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5ab267ec649fc7d9d71a86017f028e86"><b>ball valve. </b></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kkn-nYhqrfA/Vv-ohOGVV5I/AAAAAAAACZA/YOzoyflPLNY8LztBFcFptM7LzH6-5EyIg/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing%2Bdrops.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor piping drops slanted " border="0" height="356" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kkn-nYhqrfA/Vv-ohOGVV5I/AAAAAAAACZA/YOzoyflPLNY8LztBFcFptM7LzH6-5EyIg/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing%2Bdrops.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>8</b>.</span> Each drop should have a length of pipe and a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-70-800-Series-Bronze-Valve/dp/B001C254JW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kgoeKNdnL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1RC1WRFPS6WWM35VBARH&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5ab267ec649fc7d9d71a86017f028e86"><b>ball valve</b></a> at the end to collect and drain water.&nbsp; Also, any connections you make to the drop should Tee off of the side of the drop and run upwards.&nbsp; This further allows gravity to assist in making sure that all of the moisture runs towards the bottom of the drop to be drained. You can see in the picture below how this would work.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cu0mbheWQmo/Vv-pNHqhXII/AAAAAAAACZI/WFUx9EGsXL41MBkOvlHXMCSVTMaxfYLMA/s1600/DSC_0206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor moisture trap pipe drop" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cu0mbheWQmo/Vv-pNHqhXII/AAAAAAAACZI/WFUx9EGsXL41MBkOvlHXMCSVTMaxfYLMA/s400/DSC_0206.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">9</span>.</b> Run at least 25 feet (more is better) of piping before your first drop.&nbsp; This initial piping before the drops allow the hot compressed air to cool down allowing the moisture to condense into a liquid allowing your moisture filters to catch it. <br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459596091&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1/2%22+copper+unions&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=755a62000a3e94d02301ea5920fec693" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459596091&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1/2%22+copper+unions&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=755a62000a3e94d02301ea5920fec693" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4oczHD0m8H8/V7YQZtwqnFI/AAAAAAAACpI/eYlrXrxc7ngTUdPbNBv8GEOh6UkXvNw6QCLcB/s200/41WV4KTQNNL.jpg" title="copper pipe union plumbing air comrpessor" width="132" /></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>10.</b></span> You should install <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-Corp-102-1-Copper/dp/B00002N6MG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459596091&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1%2F2%22+copper+unions&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0ad4c64e5bcf428ef34f4ea1d9676d0d">unions</a></b> in several locations throughout your compressed air piping if using copper, iron, or steel.&nbsp; Unions allow you to easily separate the pipes using a threaded nut.&nbsp; This allows you to easily disassemble your pipes for maintenance, additions, or removal.<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00002N6MG" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li3&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00002N6MG" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" />&nbsp; <br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Plumbing Your Air Compressor - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="9738421136" hidden="" ojei2s6="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><h4><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><b>&nbsp;</b></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><b>&nbsp;</b></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Closed Loop or Linear Compressed Air Plumbing?&nbsp;</b></span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><b>&nbsp;</b></h4><div style="text-align: left;">This refers to the horizontal run of pipes around your space.&nbsp; A closed loop system runs up from your compressor and Tee's into pipes running in both directions where it meets on the other side of the room. There is no beginning or end, just a continuous loop. This can be seen in the picture below.&nbsp; This setup is ideal for larger garages or shops and especially if there is more than one person using compressed air at the same time. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nDhurDWCkYU/Vv-uhE_J-OI/AAAAAAAACZY/qwJfgLgZCkgZKQ6jgBpdpwbwmZdI0zPqg/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bhalo%2Bloop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor piping close loop halo shop" border="0" height="282" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nDhurDWCkYU/Vv-uhE_J-OI/AAAAAAAACZY/qwJfgLgZCkgZKQ6jgBpdpwbwmZdI0zPqg/s320/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping%2Bhalo%2Bloop.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A linear system is what can be found in most home garages.&nbsp; The pipe runs from the compressor and ends somewhere else in the garage. This is fine for one user with a short length of piping that goes that has drops on one or two walls.&nbsp; However, if you have drops on 3 walls in a room with 4 walls, there is no reason not to complete the loop.&nbsp; The benefit of this is that the drop that was originally furthest away from the air compressor with the highest pressure drop, now has a much shorter path to the air compressor and will have much less pressure drop.&nbsp;</div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating suppllies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="Powder coating suppllies" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">MATERIALS</span></h3><h4 style="text-align: center;"></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"></h4>Air compressor pipes come in many materials, but the most common ones found in a garage or shop are copper, black iron pipe, or a aluminum or polyethylene system like <a href="http://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28075-Fastpipe-100-Feet/dp/B00LQK8IG6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464246182&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=rapidair+aluminum&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=691b5349c90868f7930b2ac55eb60fb8"><b>RapidAir</b></a>. Each of these have their pro's and con's. I will review each of these below.<br /><br />I do not recommend PVC pipe as it can shatter sending shrapnel through the air. <br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Copper Pipe</b></span><br /><br />Copper piping is one of the best choices for affordable compressed air piping. It is my first choice and what I would recommend so it will be discussed more than the other options. It is lightweight, corrosion resistant, somewhat easy to assemble, and has a very smooth bore which reduces frictional pressure losses with air. One of the most beneficial things about copper is that is is an excellent material to cool the compressed air flowing through the pipes.&nbsp; This allows the moisture in the air to condense into a liquid allowing you to catch it with a water filter.&nbsp; It is most commonly sold in 10 foot lengths from $14 to $20 depending on which type you get.&nbsp; While the pipes themselves are more expensive than black iron pipe, the fittings are cheaper than iron fittings. One of the downsides to copper pipe is that it must be soldered together.&nbsp; Luckily, all of the tools required to do solder copper pipes and fittings are very cheap and there is not much of a learning curve.&nbsp; The very copper fitting I ever soldered in my life has never leaked and is still fine to this day.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-X-10ft/dp/B00467EFHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459598591&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+1/2+10+ft+type+l&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=47af6a36107e15dd4cd8513aab9e81b3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor copper pipe" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d2D6RLERQgo/V7YR61hYKdI/AAAAAAAACpg/PSQ5buTdNCMGRpe4z-ytQs16peddPhgewCLcB/s200/417gi-31bwL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><br />Hard copper pipe comes in three wall thicknesses.&nbsp; Type M is the thinnest, then Type L, and Type K is the thickest.&nbsp; Type M or L pipe will last many years in home garages or shops. I have had no issues with the thinnest <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-Water-10ft/dp/B004678IHU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459598343&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=084d3f879ea2ef1d4e18af47a72b44fe"><b>Type M copper pipe</b></a> in my home garage but in a shop, where the copper pipe has more of a chance of being bashed up against by something, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-X-10ft/dp/B00467EFHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459598591&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft+type+l&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=95a2ed4f40e76247bd34077afea89817"><b>Type L copper pipe</b></a> would be more suitable.<b>&nbsp; </b>If you want to play it very safe and don 't mind spending the extra money, there is <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Type-Hard-length-10ft-KH04010/dp/B0078S91YS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459599283&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=copper+1%2F2+10+ft+type+k&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f5796417c6520affb644ab57e77d9422">Type K copper pipe</a></b>.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to Solder Copper Pipe and Fittings:</b></span><br /><br /><b>1.</b> First the copper pipes must be cut to the desired length using an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-35012-2-Inch-QuickCut/dp/B004Q086QA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459600259&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=copper+pipe+cutter&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=04d4c9ddb5f4658045e3c9f276142b6a"><b>tubing cutter</b></a>.&nbsp;<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004Q086QA" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><b>2.</b> The cutting will leave an edge on the inside diameter of the pipes that must be removed before soldering, this can be done with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34965-Inner-Outer-Reamer-2-inch/dp/B0019MRGQY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459600674&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=pipe+reamer+copper&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0786f08015bde2120b01127e083a9a8d">de-burring tool</a></b>.<br /><br />3. Once your cut is made, you must remove any oxidation from the pipes where it inserts into the fitting.&nbsp; This should be done by using <a href="http://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLO-45201-Emery-Cloth-Brown/dp/B0006945UQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459600995&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=emery+cloth&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0714072a268c03fe4e183211581abedf"><b>emery cloth</b></a> on the outside of the copper pipe and the fitting until the copper is shiny. The first inch or so of the inside of the pipes and fitting also need to be cleaned until shiny.&nbsp; This can be done with an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Forney-70471-Plastic-Handled-Fitting/dp/B003YDLXQK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459601396&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=copper+tubing+wire+brush&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6e9be903af79104a0b43ab0b680e1fde"><b>wire brush</b></a> that fits your pipe.<br /><br /><b>4.</b> Now that your pipes are cut and cleaned, you will apply a very light coat of<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30372-Tinning-Flux-8-Ounce/dp/B00176KQ32/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459602312&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lead+free+tinning+flux&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e870859fc5278e9a9ad2734a06bb0fb6">soldering flux</a></b> on the outside of the copper pipes and on the inside of the fitting.&nbsp; This only needs to be applied where the two meet together. Do this for each pipe and you can then press them together. Make sure the pipe is fully seated into the fitting before continuing.&nbsp; Wipe off any excess flux. I highly recommend the tinning flux linked above, it is very easy to get a leak free solder joint with that. <br /><br /><b>5.</b> You must prepare the entire fitting before soldering.&nbsp; If you are using an elbow fitting, you must have two copper pipes prepped, fluxed, and inserted into each end of the elbow before soldering. If using a 3-way tee fitting, then three copper pipes prepped, fluxed, and inserted into each hole before soldering and so on. You do not have to build your entire piping system all at once before soldering, but the fitting must be completely assembled.<br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Plumbing Your Air Compressor - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="9738421136" hidden="" ojei2s6="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><b> </b><br /><b>6.</b> To do the actual soldering, you will need a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459602709&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=propane+torch&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6f5b1b42d4dbccda882c6074fc254cd1"><b>propane torch head</b></a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/C-R-Laurence-LP1759-Standard-Cylinder/dp/B002DVN7OU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459599609&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=propane+torch&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b2578bc6fb76bbd3545fd9b1b7892ee9"><b>propane cylinder</b></a>. While the heads are cheaper online, the propane tanks are only about $4 at your local hardware store. You will use your propane torch to heat up the middle of the copper fitting, do not aim it at the solder joint. Unroll a length of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-50684-Safe-Flo-Silver-Plumbing/dp/B000BQOAEK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460107638&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+pipe+solder&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=68ea963256f47a8a7ec413ff0dfdb77c"><b>solder</b></a> and hold it on the joint on on the opposite side of the flame.&nbsp; Once the joint is hot enough, the solder and start to flow into the joint. Start to move the solder around the joint until the entire joint is soldered.&nbsp; You do not want to add too much as it can glob up inside the joint.&nbsp; Once you finish soldering one side of the finish, move your copper to the next side of the same fitting and repeat.&nbsp; Once all sides of the one fitting are soldered, you can remove the torch from the joint.&nbsp; If the next joint you are about to solder is close to the previous joint, you can wrap a wet rag around the completed joint to keep it from re-melting.&nbsp; If you have to solder close to a wall you can hang up a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Inch-High-Temp-Felt-Plumber/dp/B00EAR3ST4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459604017&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=soldering+mat+pipe&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ad92f63103c3978523382d213b3b8d53">soldering pad</a></b> on the wall to prevent burning down your garage.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RHQti3JL3DU/Vv_HtArZH1I/AAAAAAAACZs/cTG_IKjpDgUIBs5A2nFh8vRTeNlEvQLHg/s1600/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="soldering copper pipe too much solder" border="0" height="157" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RHQti3JL3DU/Vv_HtArZH1I/AAAAAAAACZs/cTG_IKjpDgUIBs5A2nFh8vRTeNlEvQLHg/s200/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqyJhQxhONA/Vv_Hoh7n2gI/AAAAAAAACZo/_VN0Q6Yt1iAoChs9iKMA8R-LYadEpxt5w/s1600/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="soldering copper pipe" border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqyJhQxhONA/Vv_Hoh7n2gI/AAAAAAAACZo/_VN0Q6Yt1iAoChs9iKMA8R-LYadEpxt5w/s400/soldering%2Bcopper%2Bpipe.jpeg" title="" width="400" /></a><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00467EFHM" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />&nbsp;<b> </b><br /><div style="text-align: left;"></div><b> </b><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><b>7.</b> Once your solder joint is completed, wipe the joint with a damp rag to remove any excess flux.&nbsp; The flux is acidic and if left on the pipe, can cause corrosion.&nbsp; Also inspect the solder joint to ensure that is is filled in completely.<br /><br />Here is an excellent video to watch before you start soldering:<br /><br /><center></center><center></center><center><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zqhmKshcPt0" width="560"></iframe></center><br />It seems like a lot of steps but once you get into the groove, it really is not difficult. I did all of my copper air compressor plumbing in a night and there has never been a leak.<br /><b><br /></b> <br /><b><br /></b> <br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Piecing Copper Pipe Together</b></span><br /><br />Selecting the copper fittings you need for your air compressor plumbing is also pretty simple.&nbsp; The most important thing is to size your fittings according to the diameter of copper pipe that you chose. 1/2" pipe fits 1/2" fittings, 3/4" pipe fits 3/4" fittings, etc.&nbsp; Easy stuff.&nbsp; Here are some basic fittings that you will need to plumb your air compressor, all example links and pictures are 1/2" size:<br /><br /><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Degree-Copper-Elbows-Pack/dp/B00NAQJPAM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460112651&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1/2+copper+elbow&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f7c6c03b1dd63df27b9d3aea3d924658">90 Degree Copper Elbows</a>&nbsp; </b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Degree-Copper-Elbows-Pack/dp/B00NAQJPAM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460112651&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1/2+copper+elbow&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f7c6c03b1dd63df27b9d3aea3d924658"><img alt="air compressor copper pipe elbow" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MBkXjyiqnC4/V7YSI4GSRNI/AAAAAAAACpk/EzvUnDKnUDUgVmO27OcuOnkzwXL7zxY5gCLcB/s200/51RzpGXwKML.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></b></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>These are pretty self explanatory.&nbsp; They come in short radius and long radius.&nbsp; The longer radius elbows flow a little better and are a little more expensive.<br /><br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/INCH-TEE-COPPER-FITTING-PACK/dp/B00ZS3DOKW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460113576&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+tee+1%2F2&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=825aa66b1bea368b9cfd6aa707ca842f">Copper Tee Fitting</a></b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/INCH-TEE-COPPER-FITTING-PACK/dp/B00ZS3DOKW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460113576&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+tee+1/2&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=29e7f8af8e68b2f0959f4505b9d9d203"><img alt="air compressor copper tee" border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FGtreh_5XeA/V7YSXsEOTRI/AAAAAAAACps/b1SwIOjje84bByKPCyyN1Avk8jhCZPSJwCLcB/s200/61mbn1Xva8L._SL1280_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><b>&nbsp; </b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li1&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00ZS3DOKW" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br />These can come in one uniform size such as 1/2" x 12" x 1/2" or they can have a combination of sizes in one fitting such as 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4".&nbsp; If using 3/4" or 1" piping, you can neck down to 1/2" copper piping for the drops unless you have a very large compressor and are moving some serious air. The picture below shows a piping zig-zag which is used to cool the compressed air in an effort to remove moisture. You can see where the tee fittings are needed.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ifsghc2G2Qg/VwePOSQdM1I/AAAAAAAACaY/8Yjj7WMWeTcfxAYGXpTsy5sOKoOsxW9LA/s1600/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor water moisture removal zig zag pipe" border="0" height="475" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ifsghc2G2Qg/VwePOSQdM1I/AAAAAAAACaY/8Yjj7WMWeTcfxAYGXpTsy5sOKoOsxW9LA/s640/air%2Bcompressor%2Bpiping3.png" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464239574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=copper+fittings&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=153e13678dd7258e830f502e6c745700"><b>Copper Male Threaded Fitting</b></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464239574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=copper+fittings&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=45d59efe60e5bb1340dfb5f0b2865b3a"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Products-30436-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B000BOABMW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464239574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=copper+fittings&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=45d59efe60e5bb1340dfb5f0b2865b3a" border="0" height="155" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8PUp2MI44io/V7YSo_pdK1I/AAAAAAAACpw/TBkXs9sz3tQCswgPHh1eEGa5xe6qq_1LQCLcB/s200/71TH2SnPCmL._SL1414_.jpg" title="air compressor npt fitting male copper" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The male threaded fittings allow you to make connections to anything with female NPT threads.&nbsp; This includes air filters, water separators, hose reels, ball valves, etc.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-33691-0-50-Copper-Hanger%252c/dp/B002H1TI2Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464240176&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+pipe+bell+hanger+pack&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b23e1b66b2dfba569d5cba4947dc14fc"><b>Copper Pipe Wall Mounts</b></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-33691-0-50-Copper-Hanger%2c/dp/B002H1TI2Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464240176&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=copper+pipe+bell+hanger+pack&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0a8820b670b75958e6e28a690cbe5fc2"><img alt="best copper pipe wall mounts" border="0" height="155" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bjKghdLxIK0/V7YS6rFgeaI/AAAAAAAACp0/-MccD_xRGCME_eEyFL9xmojwQVQQGTywACLcB/s200/41T3uILvUUL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br />These are not a fitting, but are very handy for mounting your copper pipe to the wall and they are very cheap.&nbsp; They are all copper construction so there is no chance of corrosion due to dissimilar metals. They also mount the pipe away from the wall so you don't have to worry about vibrations.These mount to the wall with a single drywall screw, which pair well with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Hollow-Wall-Anchor-Combo-Pack-Including/dp/B01D0X00D0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464241017&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=drywall+anchor&amp;psc=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=bf49862bb2dc0ad061273fc14d4cb834">standard drywall anchors</a>. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AtPbafUwLiQ/V0aJaYDM-0I/AAAAAAAACdg/ygDQ0jzL6CERujrTEAUhVGfE9r823K6rgCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252812%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="copper pipe wall mounting bells" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AtPbafUwLiQ/V0aJaYDM-0I/AAAAAAAACdg/ygDQ0jzL6CERujrTEAUhVGfE9r823K6rgCLcB/s400/1%2B%252812%2529.JPG" title="" width="225" /></a></div><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00NAQJPAM" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li1&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00NAQJPAM" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br />That pretty much sums of copper pipe as a way to plumb your air compressor throughout your work space.&nbsp; With the above info, you should have just about everything you need to get design and assemble your compressors plumbing. Now onto the other popular choice for plumbing.<br /><br /><br /><br /><h2><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Black Iron Pipe</span></b></h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SPZq45UF30/V0aOtx97Z2I/AAAAAAAACd4/P6ijoWaV4DgI_ZmRliWeIiUSIDZQ9_OnQCLcB/s1600/AirCompressor%2Bblack%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bplumbing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor black iron pipe " border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SPZq45UF30/V0aOtx97Z2I/AAAAAAAACd4/P6ijoWaV4DgI_ZmRliWeIiUSIDZQ9_OnQCLcB/s640/AirCompressor%2Bblack%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bplumbing.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><h2><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></b></h2><b><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-120-in-Black-Steel-10-ft-Sch-40-Pipe-314-12X120/100553686">Black iron pipe</a></b> is another popular choice for plumbing an air compressor.&nbsp; It can be slightly cheaper than copper piping and it is very heavy duty.&nbsp; Instead of needing to be soldered together like copper pipe, it is threaded together. You can buy it at the local hardware store in 10 foot sections.<br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Plumbing Your Air Compressor - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="9738421136" hidden="" ojei2s6="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>The downsides of black iron pipe is that it the interior of the pipe is prone to corrosion from the moisture your air compressor produces.&nbsp; They will still last a very long time, but a good air filter is a must to catch any debris from the pipes corroding. Another downside is the tools needed to assemble them which can be somewhat expensive.&nbsp; These pipes need to be threaded in order to assemble and they must be tightened very tight to keep them from leaking. You will need some specialized tools to thread black iron pipe or another options is if you purchase it locally at Home Depot or Lowes, they will cut and thread the pipe to your specifications for free as long as you buy the pipe from them.&nbsp; Call your local store to confirm that they do this before planning out your black iron pipe plumbing.<br /><br />If you decide you want to tackle threading the pipes yourself to avoid a bunch of trips to Home Depot, you will need an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-32820-8-Inch-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B001ASEX90/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1B52ZJ8QDX49K6KZHZ4Z&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=028d74ee8f321ae28a26efefff7be3ce"><b>tubing cutter</b></a> to cut the pipe to the desired length, an appropriately sized<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Westward-3CYV4-Spiral-Ratchet-Reamer/dp/B001QRJ0MU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464242369&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ratcheting+pipe+reamer&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e63efa6f6cc49be0956797824bdb03b8"><b> pipe reamer</b></a> to deburr and smooth the cut, and an appropriately sized <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464241425&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pipe+threader&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d1a85013c84cc21fe0b1dad7b6972771"><b>pipe threader</b></a> to cut threads into the pipe.&nbsp; You will also need<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-70830-Dark-Threading-1-Gallon/dp/B0002YPMUM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464243213&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=thread+cutting+oil&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=884fcbd2a07c5075ab5db64a55ba2374">pipe threading oil</a></b> to lubricate and cool the tool as its threading. Harbor Freight also sells a discounted pipe threader if you want to try that route, just make sure to save your receipt because it doesn't have the best reviews. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-32820-8-Inch-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B001ASEX90/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0E08MEYW9BTBNC4NWGTC&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f5e03299029632fe9c1dc36c54c46f6a" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cutting black iron pipe" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWnfLUVWcs4/V7YTHI1lVQI/AAAAAAAACp8/zOOxaFAjYdMjqn_q_-GFfPjsr9JHdNm1QCLcB/s200/41lXrpv3o-L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464241425&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pipe+threader&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2a8474a8ad663d474541af6d52399208" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36345-Capacity-Exposed-Threader/dp/B000GATF2S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464241425&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pipe+threader&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2a8474a8ad663d474541af6d52399208" border="0" height="216" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qEoFWBrIc_0/V7YTdPU6-kI/AAAAAAAACqE/UgE2dQED37E-Or08dlZi1qDG0kyoc2UpQCLcB/s320/81EpHdkerZL._SL1500_.jpg" title="diy threading black iron pipe" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Westward-3CYV4-Spiral-Ratchet-Reamer/dp/B001QRJ0MU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464242369&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ratcheting+pipe+reamer&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5f01965ae4d7039018c04f2af67cb838" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="threading black iron pipe" border="0" height="188" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFmu4DUZmas/V7YTUcW79iI/AAAAAAAACqA/dYTBiWoallcPrnjcuRwwrJy-xyUN2PBqwCLcB/s200/21OXGe0rBBL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000BOABMW" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Anvil-8700163101-Malleable-Fitting-Female/dp/B0058DQGF2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464243472&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iron+pipe+union&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=c1baf59962636de698812ce944bbfcbd" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="black iron pipe union fitting high quality" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CwAbg2MUmXs/V7YT9wVlWjI/AAAAAAAACqQ/hvX7mYLnrl4Nx1vgiyi6_loTSF41XSGPgCLcB/s200/415f-40aD4L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>Once you have your threaded pipes and fittings, you can begin assembly. Make sure to include lots of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Anvil-8700163101-Malleable-Fitting-Female/dp/B0058DQGF2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464243472&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iron+pipe+union&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ee35ba309bb64167cb93c7b20647f12e"><b>union fittings</b></a> throughout the system. If you don't use any union fittings and you decide you want to do something like add a quick connect fitting in the middle of the system, you will have to take apart all of the piping, starting from the end, up until that point. And then reassemble it all.&nbsp; A set of union fittings allows you to make changes within the plumbing without needing to do lots of dissembling.<br /><b></b><br /><br /><br />To assemble the pipes, you will need at least 2 <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-31015-12-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Straight/dp/B0000224J7/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464244749&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=pipe+wrench&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a701c31737375c55177d6bdf3c4a0e0f">pipe wrenches</a></b> to tighten the pipes together.&nbsp; You will also need <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-TTB75-Industrial-Temperature/dp/B003D7K8E0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464243973&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=teflon+tape&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a10d84c9412e4b91e1ad7f7e6612f923"><b>teflon tape</b></a> or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31230-Joint-Compound-fl-Ounce/dp/B000KKVWL6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464243329&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pipe+dope&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=45f2c523114fc316d8e49dab477d80e2"><b>pipe joint compound</b></a>, commonly referred to as pipe dope, to make the threaded connections air-tight. Pipe dope seems to be superior to teflon tape as it usually seals better and there is no risk of little shreds of teflon tape running through the plumbing and getting caught in your air tools.&nbsp; When assembling the pipes and fittings, you apply the pipe dope to both the male and female threaded sections of the pipe and hand tighten them.&nbsp; Then tighten a pipe wrench around the pipe and another one around the fitting and tighten the crap out of them.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mQhJjmxkY_Y/V0aaaLjIZWI/AAAAAAAACeQ/n0vP-jWn-Y8bBYE3J_fAymdvOG6EDhnxgCLcB/s1600/black%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bwrench.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tightening black iron pipe leaks" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mQhJjmxkY_Y/V0aaaLjIZWI/AAAAAAAACeQ/n0vP-jWn-Y8bBYE3J_fAymdvOG6EDhnxgCLcB/s400/black%2Biron%2Bpipe%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bwrench.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div><br />Keep in mind that black iron pipe is heavy and it needs to be securely mounted to the wall.&nbsp; I would recommend mounting it directly to the studs whenever possible.<br /><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">RapidAir Systems: Aluminum or Polyethylene</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9w02VorpM/V0agkZWLSuI/AAAAAAAACeo/ojn92oaM6lYL9OsPZbArWghdCAg4wsTBQCLcB/s1600/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor plumbing aluminum pipe rapid air" border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9w02VorpM/V0agkZWLSuI/AAAAAAAACeo/ojn92oaM6lYL9OsPZbArWghdCAg4wsTBQCLcB/s640/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br />RapidAir among other companies offer ready-made kits that offer a several lengths of pipe and decent selection of fittings.&nbsp; They make these kits with either <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28075-Fastpipe-100-Feet/dp/B00LQK8IG6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464246182&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=rapidair+aluminum&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=691b5349c90868f7930b2ac55eb60fb8">aluminum pipe</a></b> (RapidAir FastPipe) or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Maxline-M7500-Master-4-Inch-100-Feet/dp/B005FKYRTU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464246268&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rapidair&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ded43db987738cc840dcbca507fcf18f"><b>polyethylene tubing</b></a> (RapidAir Maxline).&nbsp; I strongly recommend the aluminum pipe over the polyethylene kit.&nbsp; The polyehtlene material does have a thin layer of aluminum sandwhiched in the middle of the material but it is more to give the pipe form and not so much for helping to absorb heat from the compressed air.&nbsp; Removing heat from the compressed air allows the moisture to drop out of suspension where it can be caught by a water separator.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/RAPIDAIR-FASTPIPE-F28075-Fastpipe-100-Feet/dp/B00LQK8IG6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464246182&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=rapidair+aluminum&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=65e8c26096c0221ebb85e5d64d903bca" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="rapidair diy aluminum air compressor piping system" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yU1OOmYnfI/V7YUVgzXxaI/AAAAAAAACqc/2ipPoa-wuTkOQZiLb5-puIemU5tXEpbvwCLcB/s200/914zZ0AL5%252BL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="154" /></a>The aluminum FastPipe systems from rapid air are a very nice kit however.&nbsp; Aluminum is very good at absorbing the heat from the compressed air allowing the moisture to drop out of of suspension and it is a nice and lightweight material that is resistant to corrosion.&nbsp; The pipe comes in either 3/4" or 1" so is suitable for large air compressors. The system looks very professional and systems like it are often used in large manufacturing plants. The piping is also powder coated blue, so the slight chance of the aluminum ever corroding is not a worry. Another great thing compared to the other piping materials is that you don't really need any specialized tools with this kit.<br /><br /><br />The downsides of the aluminum RapidAir system is that it is a little more expensive than assembling your own copper pipe or black iron pipe system.&nbsp; All of the components available in the system are sold individually if you ever want to expand or change your compressed air plumbing, however they are somewhat costly and not much is available locally. Other than those couple of cons, it is a very nice system and looks great in any shop / garage.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7dEy-FgCwrs/V0ajgukthyI/AAAAAAAACe8/WGA848ljNFsY36wycndpJIHJ-1oDfvP8wCLcB/s1600/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor plumbing aluminum pipe rapid air" border="0" height="475" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7dEy-FgCwrs/V0ajgukthyI/AAAAAAAACe8/WGA848ljNFsY36wycndpJIHJ-1oDfvP8wCLcB/s640/rapidair%2Bair%2Bcompressor%2Bplumbing%2B2.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002H1TI2Q" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li1&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001ASEX90" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Plumbing Your Air Compressor - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="9738421136" hidden="" ojei2s6="" style="display: block;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><h2 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;Conclusion</span></h2><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li1&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001QRJ0MU" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">With the advice from this article, you should be well on your way to setting up the plumbing for your air compressor. Remember that a good compressed air system can make life much easier while powder coating in your garage or shop.&nbsp; You can design a system that eliminates moisture in your compressed air and also offers you convenient quick connect couplers wherever you need them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: large;">To help design the system, make sure to also read <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.V0akS761iW9">How to Dry Compressed Air</a> as the concepts from that article should be included in your plumbing design. If you have not yet purchased an air compressor, check out <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.V0alPr61iW9">Choosing an Air Compressor</a>.&nbsp;</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br />Thanks for reading!</span><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li1&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000GATF2S" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0058DQGF2" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li3&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00LQK8IG6" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div bg9ck9t="" bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ojei2s6=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-1708198288449541832015-05-29T02:47:00.000-07:002016-10-02T22:32:47.277-07:00How to Spray Powder Coat<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" xie9hkm=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Spraying powder coat is a fairly simple point-and-shoot job once you get the hang of it.&nbsp; After you have done all of the necessary <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html#.VWgKplI71wA" target="_blank">cleaning</a>, <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.VWgKwlI71wA" target="_blank">blasting</a>, and <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html#.VWgK41I71wA" target="_blank">masking</a>; shooting the powder is the next step.&nbsp; This article will help you achieve the correct coating thickness and avoid orange peel and other defects.</b></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JDn-fGAfu9I/VWgL1ZK-hFI/AAAAAAAAB6w/nBUlgyZ28zU/s1600/shooting%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Cloud" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JDn-fGAfu9I/VWgL1ZK-hFI/AAAAAAAAB6w/nBUlgyZ28zU/s1600/shooting%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" title="Powder Coating Cloud" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Spray Powder Coat - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="2891308737" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><a name='more'></a><br />Start off by hanging your part on some type of rack with a clean metal hook.&nbsp; If you are grounding your part through your rack, the hook must be clean and free of coatings in order to transfer the ground to your part. Ideally you should have plenty of lighting to easily see every area of the part.&nbsp; However, it is also very helpful to have an LED flashlight handy.<br /><br />It is best to shoot powder coat in some kind of booth to keep your work clean and prevent over-spray from going all over your garage / shop. You can make a home-made booth using cardboard boxes, wood, or anything you can think of.&nbsp; A box fan with a furnace filter can be placed on the back wall of the booth to catch overspray.&nbsp; If you have a powder coating shop, you can buy purpose-built powder coating booths or build a small clean room.&nbsp; It is important to be in a clean area to prevent crap from getting onto your parts as you are spraying.&nbsp; Make sure to shower or spray yourself off with air before coating as a lot of contaminants will transfer from you to your work. I have recommended several safety items near the bottom of the article that will protect you while you are powder coating. <br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Adjusting the Powder Coating Gun</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">PSI&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>The adjustments for your gun are completely dependent on the type of gun you have.&nbsp; If you are using the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YEAYCW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004YEAYCW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=JGGCUJFZIN6BBYKJ" target="_blank">Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</a>, there are no adjustments or air pressures to set.&nbsp; However, all other powder coating guns require you to at least set the air pressure going into the gun. Powder Coating uses very low pressures.&nbsp; Most often, you will be using the 5-10psi range.&nbsp; When shooting complicated parts with lots of recessed areas (Faraday cage areas), it is best to set the psi just high enough for the powder to spray out of the gun.&nbsp; Lower PSI will help to achieve coverage in the Faraday areas.&nbsp; The best way to set the pressure on your gun is with a wall mounted regulator but keep in mind that there will be pressure loss through an air hose so setting the wall regulator to 8 psi will not produce 8psi at the gun.&nbsp; You can overcome this by using an inline air pressure gauge right before the gun or just trial and error.&nbsp; Trial and error involves adjusting the regulator from 5 psi up until the gun produces a good powder cloud.&nbsp; You can also use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XMS75I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002XMS75I&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2A472AXTLLHLDVMB" target="_blank">mini regulator</a> right before the gun.&nbsp; <br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">KV</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>Higher end powder coating guns will have adjustable KV (Kilovolts) settings.&nbsp; The higher the KV setting, the better the transfer efficiency, as in more powder will stick to the part instead of becoming over spray.&nbsp; However, higher is not always better.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you are shooting a large flat panel, it is best to crank up the KV setting up to 100KV, just make sure that you are keeping adequate distance between the gun and the part (~8 inches).&nbsp; Higher KV settings commonly cause a defect known as back ionization which will appear as tiny dimples&nbsp; the coating.<br /><br />You would use less KV for a more complex part. The more complex the part is, the less KV you want to use.&nbsp; 50KV is a good average for shooting first coats on most parts.&nbsp; If you are having trouble getting powder into a Faraday area, turn the KV down, less is more in this case. When shooting a 2nd coat, always turn the KV down to 20 or 30.&nbsp; This will allow easier attraction between the powder and the part.&nbsp; If you are using the popular <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XE4LNS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002XE4LNS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=GSPW6LULUSEKH53I" target="_blank">Eastwood Dual Voltage Powder Coating Gun</a>, it is adjustable to either 15KV or 25KV.&nbsp; You can complete most powder coating jobs with the 25KV setting, and lower it to 15KV when shooting 2nd coats or if you are having trouble getting powder into a Faraday area.<br /><br />Professional powder coating guns will offer several more settings and a selections of nozzles to suit every powder coating job. However, these settings cannot easily be explained for all the different types of guns there are out there and if you spent several thousand dollars on one of these guns, it is best to thoroughly go over the instructions or have a rep come out and teach you how to properly adjust your gun. <br /><br /><br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Correct Spraying Technique</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">After you have the gun adjusted correctly, it is time to start spraying the powder.&nbsp; Before you actually begin spraying the powder, look at the part and plan out a course that you will follow when shooting the part.&nbsp; It is best practice to spray any Faraday areas first and then move onto the flatter areas of the part.&nbsp; As a part is covered in powder, a charge will build up, and this charge will make the Faraday areas even more difficult to spray into.&nbsp; That is why you spray them first.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once you have your course mapped out, you will begin by spraying the powder coating gun away from the part until a nice even, non-sputtering cloud is being sprayed.&nbsp; This should take a second at most.&nbsp; Then you will move the gun to the part and it is best to keep the trigger pressed until you have achieved full coverage on the entire part.&nbsp; It is best to operate in a slow, controlled motion throughout the part, keeping a gun-to-part distance of 6 to 8 inches. Instead of erratically spraying the gun all around the part, attempt to achieve full coverage with 1 pass throughout the whole part.&nbsp; </div><div style="text-align: left;"><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Spray Powder Coat - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="2891308737" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once you have completed your spraying, you can confirm that you have full coverage by going over the whole part with a bright <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB4UCW4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00CB4UCW4&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=V5HP2POPP722ZPGC" target="_blank">LED flashlight</a>.&nbsp; However, when I personally like to keep the flashlight pointed at the part the entire time I am spraying. The flashlight will show any areas where bare metal may still be showing through. These spots do not have full coverage, and if the part where cured in this state, they would have a very textured look in that area.&nbsp; Touch up any bare metal spots you see with the flashlight before curing the part in the oven.&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><b>Faraday Area Tips:</b>&nbsp; When using a hobbyist powder coating gun, it is often very difficult to get powder into Faraday areas even with all of the right conditions.&nbsp; The following techniques should allow you achieve coverage in these areas.&nbsp; Try some or all of them until you find something that works for you.<br /><br />1. Ground your parts using a <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html" target="_blank">dedicated grounding rod</a>. Wet the ground around the rod for better efficiency. <br />2. Make sure to spray these areas first.<br />3. Try lowering the PSI to the powder coating gun for these areas.<br />4. Turn down the KV if possible.<br />5. Try aiming around the area instead of directly into it<br />6. Try touching the corner of the part with a clean bare hand while shooting these areas. <br />7. If all else fails, use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q04X44/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004Q04X44&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=VRIA5WJ5FRQUD2MB" target="_blank">heat-gun</a> to heat this area of the part and then spray the powder. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Eliminating Orange Peel&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">Achieving the right amount of powder on the part is very important for durability reasons as well as eliminating orange peel.&nbsp; If you spray too little powder on the part, you will most likely end up with a grainy texture to the powder also known as "tight orange peel."&nbsp; This is because there was not enough powder on the part for it to flow-out and create a uniform coating.&nbsp; Besides the poor aesthetics of this, the part will likely start to rust or oxidize in these areas because air is allowed to contact the bare metal still.&nbsp; Using an LED flashlight is the east way to overcome this. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">If you spray too much powder on the part, you will most likely end up with large wavy orange peel.&nbsp; The excessive thickness of the powder will also make the part more prone to chipping.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Achieving the perfect powder thickness, not too light and not too heavy will take some practice. Make sure to take note of any orange peel you get and keep in mind that you need to shoot the next part heavier or lighter.&nbsp; I have found a somewhat reliable method of keeping an LED flashlight on the part the entire time that I am spraying.&nbsp; As soon as the flashlight no longer reveals bare metal in a spot, that is the perfect amount of powder and I do not spray any more powder.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-DT-156-Thickness-Integrated-Painting/dp/B00AMX0LPO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4EAJWB3J3E7FZ64M56HZ&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=578a6917dae4e5d506d8db0faca0c76d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating mil thickness gauge reader" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Se6JY_uBI7I/V7bvmVRLOHI/AAAAAAAACsU/ZPnICfHi2qgk4Y_25UnFBPomqPTTzMs6gCLcB/s320/71E7a60VG7L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>A more reliable and scientific approach to this is measuring the thickness of the powder with a Mil Thickness Gauge.&nbsp; This can only be done after the powder is cured in the oven.&nbsp; If you are serious about powder coating, I strongly recommend adding this tool to your collection.&nbsp; If you are powder coating for customers, I would say it is a requirement.&nbsp; The price of these has come down drastically over the past couple of years and it will allow you to read the thickness of a coating.&nbsp; It is best to get one that works on ferrous (steel, iron) and non-ferrous (aluminum, magnesium) metals.&nbsp; This <a href="https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-DT-156-Thickness-Integrated-Painting/dp/B00AMX0LPO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4EAJWB3J3E7FZ64M56HZ&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=578a6917dae4e5d506d8db0faca0c76d" target="_blank">mil thickness gauge</a> reads both and it also has v-groove probes which allows you to make your readings on curved parts.To use this properly, you would shoot a part as you normally would, cure it in the oven, and then read the thickness.&nbsp; All powers will have a recommended mil thickness range usually between 2.0 to 3.0 mils.&nbsp; As long as the mil-thickness you read falls into the range, the part has the right amount of powder on it.&nbsp; If it is too little or too much, make the necessary adjustments the next time you powder coat.&nbsp; This is the best and fastest way to learn how much powder needs to be applied.&nbsp; </div><br /><b>Extra Tip:</b> To achieve mirror-like coating, completely free of orange peel, I have had great success with this method, especially using gloss black.<br /><br />1. Shoot the powder just like normal.<br />2. Put the part in the oven and set the temp to 245 degrees F.<br />3. As soon as the powder looks wet, remove the part.<br />4. Immediately spray a very light coat, just enough to not see a reflection.<br />5. Insert the part back in the oven and do a full cure. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RsZcZjAYJfs/VWgkhh7gLgI/AAAAAAAAB7A/zgkL6RqE16s/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bgloss%2Bblack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coated wiper motor - Gloss Black no orange peel" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RsZcZjAYJfs/VWgkhh7gLgI/AAAAAAAAB7A/zgkL6RqE16s/s320/powder%2Bcoat%2Bgloss%2Bblack.JPG" title="Powder coated wiper motor - Gloss Black" width="190" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp; <span style="font-size: x-large;">Spraying Powder Coat Safely</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">(Personal Protection Equipment)&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">Before you begin to any powder coating job, it is important to protect yourself.&nbsp; Powder is not nearly as toxic as liquid paints but it is still important to keep it off of your skin, out of your eyes, and out of your lungs.&nbsp; There are different levels of protection depending on your level of powder coating.&nbsp; The weekend warrior can get away with the bare essentials. However the professional coater that powders coats 50 hours a week should aim for complete protection.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Hobbyist Coater:</b> I recommend a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00004Z4EB&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=NHLRCER5DALPSU2F" target="_blank">3M respirator</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Goggles-Anti-Fog-Anti-Scratch-S3970DF/dp/B003U9VE94/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471606195&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+chemical+splash+goggles&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4f4de1d135517557cb9759a8b9752bdc">safety goggles</a>, a long-sleeve shirt and some <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C9P9D52/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00C9P9D52&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SZIOCBBBJ5NXS26V" target="_blank">disposable gloves</a>.&nbsp;</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f7a68735db846686e4767855f23115b2" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating saftey respirator" border="0" height="232" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jtITR9bYdOI/V7bs8B26S0I/AAAAAAAACr4/6gys7CeA1lsRMRdG0aDefYILo6hKQsNHQCEw/s320/81-KUZfrylL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C9P9D52/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4a23edfe42c536da84247acc6b7f27f8" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating disposable gloves" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MQgJEmlYCLc/V7bs759TNkI/AAAAAAAACrs/IJ7eWxlTyH8T8lena1W4Q6807owX3NL8QCEw/s200/41UYb-EQvaL.jpg" title="" width="193" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Goggles-Anti-Fog-Anti-Scratch-S3970DF/dp/B003U9VE94/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471606195&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+chemical+splash+goggles&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4f4de1d135517557cb9759a8b9752bdc" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating eye protection goggles" border="0" height="135" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w4rSaNcgJgM/V7bt6TDs72I/AAAAAAAACsE/OspgUYVHfVU0yczhqvhP75lrz1MFHTS3wCLcB/s200/81KJ7znbaTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div><br /><b>Professional Coater:</b> I would recommend a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QY8WTY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B007QY8WTY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=FIOPHXA3SLUKS6XV" target="_blank">3M Full Face Respirator</a> and a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00821JA4Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00821JA4Q&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=NUVV2PK3HC7ZIYSH" target="_blank">Tyvek Suit</a>.&nbsp; Not only will the suit keep powder from getting on you, it will also help prevent dust and hair transferring from your clothes to your part while you're spraying.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00821JA4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b280090c0c852608f66317f582999fde" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating avoding dust lint hair" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4nyG5TsJO1o/V7bs8IAwFjI/AAAAAAAACsA/dvUp9_HXz7E6qfrlLVBnBOMq_R42hxeNQCEw/s320/71uhi1HSpIL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="169" /></a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00821JA4Q" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=41e10545d102bab1a7bd940102027c4f" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=41e10545d102bab1a7bd940102027c4f" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9qAfjZac4o/V7bs7laX8oI/AAAAAAAACsA/MVLHaUYVOTkob8RbK5Ys6P6GZCQaRQuXgCEw/s320/61MgRkot70L._SL1000_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</b></span><br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Spray Powder Coat - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="2891308737" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Following the guidelines in this article and some practice, you should be able to overcome any issues that arise while spraying single-stage powder coats and achieve an excellent finish.&nbsp; Now that you know the correct way to apply one coat of powder, <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.Vbjh3bWz5kE">learn how to apply multiple coats</a>.&nbsp; If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment.&nbsp; Also check out a new section on this site: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" target="_blank">Recommended Powder Coating Supplies</a>.&nbsp; It has a lot of quality tools that will help you out in your powder coating journey. </b></span><br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" xie9hkm=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-66930604957658921202014-12-16T00:18:00.000-08:002016-10-02T22:18:13.897-07:00How to Prep for Powder Coating<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" xie9hkm=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <span style="font-size: large;">Powder coating requires some very specific prep work if you want your finished product to be free of flaws and last a long time. The preparation steps below will eliminate 99% of any issues you may be having in your powder coating work. If you plan to start powder coating in the future, this step-by-step will give you an idea of what kind of prep work is required for successful coating.&nbsp;</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lkPjB05he9Y/VYtgfr3bEtI/AAAAAAAAB7k/v4BpKhp3-8Y/s1600/Powder%2BCoat%2Bmasking2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coat Masking" border="0" height="416" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lkPjB05he9Y/VYtgfr3bEtI/AAAAAAAAB7k/v4BpKhp3-8Y/s640/Powder%2BCoat%2Bmasking2.PNG" title="Powder Coat Masking" width="640" /></a></div><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Prep for Powder Coating - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8438314732" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><a name='more'></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span></div><h4><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: &quot;arial&quot; , &quot;helvetica&quot; , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 1:&nbsp; Disassembly&nbsp; </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></h4><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">Disassembly is not always required, it really depends on what you are coating. If you are coating a piece of metal that is only made up of 1 part, then you can skip this step.&nbsp; If you plan on coating a part that has any rubber, plastic, gaskets, wiring, e<span style="font-family: inherit;">tc.</span> involved, these pieces will need to be removed because they will likely melt in the baking process.&nbsp; Any bearings will also need to be removed, even if they are made completely of metal.&nbsp; Bearings are often packed with grease, that, when heated in the oven, will ooze out leaving the bearing useless or severely shorten its life.&nbsp; Magnets should also be removed as a lot of them will become demagnetized during the baking process.&nbsp; When disassembling anything before powder coating, just make sure that you will be able to properly assemble it when finished.&nbsp; Always do research on this before you even pick up a wrench.&nbsp; Anyone can unbolt a 2 brackets and coat them, but taking apart a transmission to powder coat the housings is a little more difficult.&nbsp; </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Always take pictures and notes of the disassembly if you aren't an expert on how it goes back together.&nbsp; </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WABL2ZxJNbc/VI_FkLQAIAI/AAAAAAAAB14/uGxoQguUb6A/s1600/STARTER%2BASSEMBLY%2B(14).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Dirty starter before powder coaitng" border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WABL2ZxJNbc/VI_FkLQAIAI/AAAAAAAAB14/uGxoQguUb6A/s1600/STARTER%2BASSEMBLY%2B(14).jpg" title="Dirty starter before powder coaitng" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Even if you have an assembly that is entirely metal, but it is made up of multiple pieces, I often find that dissembling the part and coating each piece separately gives the best results.&nbsp; Some parts are more difficult to disassemble than others.&nbsp; While one part may be bolted together and can easily be taken apart, another part may use rivets, pins or other fasteners that need specialized tools to remove and replace.&nbsp; It is up to you how much you want to disassemble parts like these<span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span> </span></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">When powder coating car parts such as starters, alternators, master cylinders, <span style="font-family: inherit;">etc.</span>, it is a good idea to purchase a rebuild kit for the part so you can take it apart, coat it, and put it all back together with brand new components.&nbsp; Just make sure you research if a rebuild kit is available and whether you should order it from the car manufacture or an auto parts store (usually the answer is always the car manufacture) </span></span></span></span><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 2: Cleaning </span></span></span></span></span></h4><br />After your part is disassembled, you will do a thorough cleaning of the part.&nbsp; You will need to remove all dirt, oil, grease, and grime from the part.&nbsp; Your goal with this cleaning should be that you could sit it on your best white shirt when done without it leaving a stain.&nbsp; Do not worry about rust or paint at this point, that will be removed later.&nbsp; Also some times cast metal items will be stained and no amount of cleaning will remove it, that will also be taken care of later.&nbsp; Definitely read this<b> <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html" target="_blank">article</a> </b>which is a completely in-depth article on the cleaning step.&nbsp; A general degreaser can be used for this cleaning, just make sure it is safe for the part you are working with.&nbsp; For steel, I use and highly recommend <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCM63K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000CCM63K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=BWBLLLIU54UM6IYA" target="_blank">Super Clean</a></b>, formerly Castrol Super Clean.&nbsp; For aluminum, I use <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001VXU7OE&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=WZ2E7AC2QRKQEYCH" target="_blank">Simple Green Extreme</a></b>, since it was specifically developed to be safe for aluminum.&nbsp; Along with the cleaners, I use an assortment of scrub brushes and an electric pressure washer on the larger parts.&nbsp; I chose an electric pressure washer simply because of the ease of use.&nbsp; This <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z8E52Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002Z8E52Y&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=Z6GP4BHBVQE3P66M" target="_blank">AR Blue Pressure Washer</a></b> is a beast as far as electric units go and I am very happy with it.&nbsp; I have been using it for 4 years of almost daily use and had no issues.&nbsp; Previously, I had a Husky and a Karcher and this one puts those to shame.&nbsp; It is much more powerful and it has lasted 4 times longer.<br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 3: Stripping </span></span></span></span></span></h4><br />After you given your part a thorough cleaning, you will then remove any previous coatings whether it be paint, powder coat, or anything else.&nbsp; If there are no previous coatings, you can skip this step.&nbsp; Depending on how much you powder coat, this step can be skipped and any previous coatings can be removed by sandblasting.&nbsp; If you are powder coating a lot, I highly recommend a stripper, especially if the previous coating you are trying to remove is powder coat.&nbsp; Some previous coatings can be a nightmare to sandblast off and the stripping step is a great time saver.&nbsp; I have written an entire article on stripping coatings and it can be found <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html#.VI_MOmc09SM" target="_blank">here</a></b>.<br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 4: Outgassing </span></span></span></span></span></h4><br />At this point, your part should be as clean as you can get it and down to bare metal.&nbsp; This is when you would do the outgassing procedure.&nbsp; Not all parts need to be outgassed so this step is "optional".&nbsp; Cast iron or cast aluminum are pourous and they can absorb oils during the manufacturing process or while they are in use.&nbsp; I always outgas all cast parts and any parts that have lived in a greasy environment.&nbsp; The outgassing procedure is the process of pre-baking the part in the oven at a higher temperature and longer time period than the actual powder coat curing.&nbsp; This pre-bake heats up the oils inside of the part and drives them out.&nbsp; You will often see a part smoking during this process, the smoke is a result of the oil burning up.&nbsp; If there are oils present inside of the part, and you do not outgas first, then these oils will come out during the powder coat curing which will leave little bubbles or bumps in the finish. <br /><br />There is no set standard for outgassing, different coaters follow different guidelines.&nbsp; Some will leave the part in the oven until it stops smoking.&nbsp; Some will leave it in for a set time.&nbsp; My procedure is to put the part in the oven at 440 Degrees F and I adjust the time based on the size of the part.&nbsp; A small part like this starter would go in the oven for 30 minutes.&nbsp; For wheels, I would leave them in for an hour or longer depending on if they are still smoking.&nbsp; My reason for 440 degrees is simply because at around 500 Degrees, some aluminum alloys can start to anneal, which causes them to loose their heat-treatment, and therefore their strength.&nbsp; 440 Degrees seems to be low enough to stay far away from the annealing temperature, yet high enough that it will remove any oils that would come out during the powder coat curing.&nbsp; Again, there is no set procedure, this is just what I do and it works for me.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 5: Sandblasting or Phosphate Coating or Both</span></span></span></span></span><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001RQV6GS" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></h4><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RQV6GS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b033d7e71eefdf457b17359c69ac149a" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sandblasting cabinet" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SgJWdJaKPiY/V7YW7Y9lCDI/AAAAAAAACq4/mTg2V4_iGusbv6rgKAR09iSIDFTal3DQwCLcB/s200/41b4I-P38yL.jpg" title="powder coating sandblasting cabinet" width="174" /></a>At this point, your part is ready for sandblasting.&nbsp; Sandblasting will clean your part to clean bare metal while providing a texture to the part which allows the powder coating to adhere to.&nbsp; When sandblasting, you will want to sandblast every single area of the part, completely, and thoroughly with clean media.&nbsp; There are some areas that should not be sandblasted, like brake caliper piston bores or cylinder bores.&nbsp; These areas need to be masked off prior to sandblasting.&nbsp; Do not use dirty or oily media to blast parts as you are prepping for powder coat.&nbsp; This oil will contaminate the part and you will see it in your finish.&nbsp; To see the full benefits of sandblasting and learn how to set yourself up for sandblasting, check out <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank">Media Blasting Part 1</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html" target="_blank">Media Blasting Part 2</a></b>.&nbsp; If after reading those articles and you are still too stubborn to set yourself up with some sandblasting equipment, then check out the <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/alternatives-to-sand-blasting.html" target="_blank">Alternatives to Sandblasting</a></b>.&nbsp; The end result to sandblasting should be completely clean, white metal with no contaminants at all.&nbsp; From this point on, your part should not be handled with bare hands.&nbsp; Use clean gloves only.<br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Prep for Powder Coating - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8438314732" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center>I mentioned above the besides cleaning, sandblasting also leaves a texture on the part which allows powder coating to stick.&nbsp; This texture is responsible for the adhesion and therefore durability of the powder coating.&nbsp; Without it, powder coating can be chipped relatively easily.&nbsp; There are alternatives to sandblasting to achieve this adhesion called phosphate coatings.&nbsp; However, these phosphate coatings do not provide as much adhesion as sandblasting and the durability of the powder coating will not be as good.&nbsp; Many production powder coating facilities that coat thousands of parts per day will use a phosphate coating instead of sandblasting.&nbsp; Phosphate coatings are much faster to apply compared to sandblasting each part individually.&nbsp; Unfortunately, the durability of the powder coating suffers because of this.&nbsp; The coatings used area usually iron phoshate or zinc phosphate.&nbsp; Iron phosphate is commercially available from almost every powder retailer.&nbsp; You can see Powder 365 sells Iron Phophate <b><a href="http://powder365.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=3&amp;products_id=351" target="_blank">here</a></b>.&nbsp; Zinc phosphate is superior to iron phosphate, however it is much more controlled and you will need to setup an account with a chemical supplier in order to purchase it.&nbsp; For the absolute best adhesion and durability, you can use a phosphate coating after sandblasting. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 6: Post-Sandblast Cleaning </span></span></span></span></span></h4><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EMB2A0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6a09650c9a23c116c87896a9dadeb82d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating cleaning prep denatured alcohol" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kqw__qq_Vbg/V7YW7Xti4wI/AAAAAAAACq8/mgC5stAXsU8KBNjHyjdmJULNUdxbV68kwCEw/s200/61yXuntz2RL._SL1000_.jpg" title="powder coating cleaning prep denatured alcohol" width="200" /></a></div><br />Sandblasting will remove almost all contaminates from your part, however your part will come out covered in sandblasting dust.&nbsp; Once you remove the part from the cabinet (WITH CLEAN GLOVES) you an remove a majority of the dust by spraying it off with the air compressor.&nbsp; Make sure you are spraying it with clean air though, you will need to have a moisture removal filter in the air line, other wise you can contaminate your clean part.&nbsp; If you want to learn how to get clean compressed air, check out this <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.VI_Z2Wc09SM" target="_blank">article</a></b>.&nbsp; After a majority of the dust is removed, I will then scrub the part aggressively with a clean stiff bristled brush and blow it off with air again.&nbsp; Then I use denatured alcohol on a clean towel and gently clean/blot the part.&nbsp; <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EMB2A0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001EMB2A0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LC55FSE4AA3A5SYL" target="_blank">Denatured alcohol</a></b> is strongly recommended over acetone.&nbsp; It leaves absolutely no residues.&nbsp; I try to leave as little lint as possible during this step. I then blow off the part again and go over the part quickly with my trusty <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0019CQL60&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=B74D5WFPFXLI7A5X" target="_blank">propane hand torch</a></b> which burns off any remaining lint and also causes any traces of denatured alcohol to evaporate.<br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Step 7: Masking</span></h4><br /><br />Masking is dependent on the part.&nbsp; Some parts require some masking before powder coating and this is the time to do it.&nbsp; I do all of my masking with clean gloves on as it is the very last step before the part is powder coated and one sweaty finger print can show up in the finish.&nbsp; I do all of my masking on a clean workbench top with clean tools.&nbsp; If you would like to see some tips on masking, check out <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking Part 1</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking Part 2</a></b>.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_qsNxL68tjM/VI_gFYr0ECI/AAAAAAAAB2I/wB5SoiWg9dc/s1600/IMG_20130925_000637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coat Masking Turbo Coolant Lines" border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_qsNxL68tjM/VI_gFYr0ECI/AAAAAAAAB2I/wB5SoiWg9dc/s1600/IMG_20130925_000637.jpg" title="Powder Coat Masking Turbo Coolant Lines" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: &quot;trebuchet ms&quot; , sans-serif;">Step 8: Hanging </span></span></span></span></span></h4><br /><br />The last step is to hang your part, I use an assortment of hooks of different sizes as well as bare wire to hang parts.&nbsp; Bigger parts get a bigger stronger hook.&nbsp; The last thing you want to hear after doing all this work is your part falling down in the oven because the hook gave out.&nbsp; If you are powder coating your parts on a grounded rack, make sure the hook you are using is clean bare metal so it is able to conduct the ground through to the part.&nbsp; <br /><center><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- How to Prep for Powder Coating - Responsive --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-format="rectangle" data-ad-slot="8438314732" hidden="" style="display: block;" xie9hkm=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></center><b><span style="font-size: large;">These are the steps necessary for successful powder coating. Do not skimp or rush these steps, preparation is 90% of the work for a good finish. It may seem like a lot of work but it is required to do it right. After these steps, your part is ready to be powder coated. In the upcoming article, I will discuss how to actually spray the powder coat and the proper way to cure it followed by how to shoot 2 or more coats. Thanks for Reading</span></b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" xie9hkm=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-63250262929428231122014-09-26T03:56:00.001-07:002017-09-08T17:09:18.348-07:00How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ispqj8s="" js3glug="" us3fkoi="" vppqr5g="" xqdom1j="" zh0p17n=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><div style="text-align: right;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYo/DWyYG5W6VfQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to build a powder coating oven diy" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCr9LPDq-Dw/VAa7OoMnRNI/AAAAAAAABYo/DWyYG5W6VfQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2Bheader%2Bimage%2B2.png" title="how to build a powder coating oven diy" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <b>Welcome</b> to "How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Part II."&nbsp; See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VYth3VI72KV" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part 1</a>.</b>&nbsp; In part 1, we build the oven frame, we started skinning it in sheet metal, we added lights and the convection blower, and also insulation and heating elements.&nbsp; I am going to pick up right were we left off.&nbsp; This powder coating oven build was done by KNJ Custom Coating and I want to thank them for contributing all of the information and pictures.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" ispqj8s="" js3glug="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" us3fkoi="" vppqr5g="" xqdom1j="" zh0p17n=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><h3>Oven Door</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3>The door for this powder coating oven is constructed the same way as the rest of the oven using <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-5-8-in-x-10-ft-25-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wall-Framing-Stud-726330/202836663" target="_blank">steel studs</a> and sheet metal, using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/PSSD402-Blind-Rivet-063--125-grip/dp/B00M1XJD48/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&amp;imprToken=K.EUznd3GP.aMBwfy5czJQ&amp;slotNum=5&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474988765&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PSSD402&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f9a27d172b918e45b61dff99b05f3567">rivets</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00M1XJR2G" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> to hold everything together.&nbsp; This door also features a window so you can your parts inside of the oven.&nbsp; A cool thing about the window is that it is built into a smaller access door so there is actually a door within a door.&nbsp; The small access door allows you to open it up and check the part temperature using an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089N2ZH6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0089N2ZH6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=7K3KZNWGKZJP2E33">Infrared Thermometer</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0089N2ZH6" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, if you are not using an Infrared Thermometer to check part temperature, learn why you should be, read this <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html#.VCT6-1e6PxU" target="_blank">article</a>.&nbsp; The small door is very small and will not let out much heat in the oven.&nbsp; If you opened the big door every time you wanted to check your part temperature, it would cause a drastic temperature drop in the oven because you allowed the heat to escape.&nbsp; This will cause fluctuations in the temperature which is the last thing you want when you are curing powder coated parts.<br /><br />Here is how the frame of the door is constructed:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT2wjfJYzsw/VCT8-fIal6I/AAAAAAAABfA/q_pMXQ3rkGg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven door frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT2wjfJYzsw/VCT8-fIal6I/AAAAAAAABfA/q_pMXQ3rkGg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B56.jpg" title="powder coating oven door frame" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br />After the basic frame is constructed, the framing for the window is started, the access door was an afterthought and the framing was redone after the following 2 pictures.&nbsp; However these pictures give you an idea of exactly how it was framed.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zB-Q-6nQzxg/VCT9OU3b2DI/AAAAAAAABfI/izD7Cnrbzps/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven door frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zB-Q-6nQzxg/VCT9OU3b2DI/AAAAAAAABfI/izD7Cnrbzps/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B57.jpg" title="powder coating oven door frame" width="476" /></a></div><br />Here is the finished window frame.&nbsp; In this shot, you can see exactly where the rivets where used to secure the steel studs together:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jv2akem_bgM/VCT9gsUpxGI/AAAAAAAABfQ/v4-VfJU6j_I/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven window frame" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jv2akem_bgM/VCT9gsUpxGI/AAAAAAAABfQ/v4-VfJU6j_I/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B59.jpg" title="powder coating oven window frame" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NM3_9CDhFPE/VCT9-y-QCyI/AAAAAAAABfc/GrhmetCCmus/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven door frame " border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NM3_9CDhFPE/VCT9-y-QCyI/AAAAAAAABfc/GrhmetCCmus/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B62.jpg" title="powder coating oven door frame " width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />Here is the frame for the access door.&nbsp; As you can see, it is too large to fit into the recently built frame in the above pictures.&nbsp; The upper square boxed section will be used as the window and all of the other open sections will be filled with insulation.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WpBZKkI0QdQ/VCUAzHghZVI/AAAAAAAABfo/F57SE-VSqtw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating acess door 1" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WpBZKkI0QdQ/VCUAzHghZVI/AAAAAAAABfo/F57SE-VSqtw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B236.jpg" title="powder coating acess door 1" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br />Here is the door frame re-designed to fit the access door:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMhjoeTAuYQ/VCUAzYnhwBI/AAAAAAAABfs/P20Mts05ZV4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build access door 2" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMhjoeTAuYQ/VCUAzYnhwBI/AAAAAAAABfs/P20Mts05ZV4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B241.jpg" title="powder coating oven build access door 2" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />One side of the door was skinned in this picture and also corner braces were added to the door for extra support.&nbsp; Since the door will not be apart of the main oven frame and will just hang when the door is opened, it needs all the support it can get to remain square.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BSg-_kLO-y0/VCUAz8HvhjI/AAAAAAAABf4/qn4rPwZd_b0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build access door 2" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BSg-_kLO-y0/VCUAz8HvhjI/AAAAAAAABf4/qn4rPwZd_b0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B249.jpg" title="powder coating oven build access door " width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />A finished shot of the door framing including the access door:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JAzoa-VTSp8/VCUA0EEYA4I/AAAAAAAABgA/CxqahZkgKts/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build door" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JAzoa-VTSp8/VCUA0EEYA4I/AAAAAAAABgA/CxqahZkgKts/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B250.jpg" title="powder coating oven build door" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />Here you can see the dimensions of the door.&nbsp; A very important aspect of building this door is the angled cuts used on the sides of the door.&nbsp; If the access door and door frame were perfectly square, the door would not be able to open. &nbsp; These next 2 pictures explain how the angled cuts were used to allow the door to open. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLy_9XzQek0/VCUCtyaDC9I/AAAAAAAABgU/o1GxuYM9EeU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLy_9XzQek0/VCUCtyaDC9I/AAAAAAAABgU/o1GxuYM9EeU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B264.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" width="478" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4JE_WuykAAE/VCUCuP4_JPI/AAAAAAAABgY/iYzjUD6gcJw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Access Door Dimensions" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4JE_WuykAAE/VCUCuP4_JPI/AAAAAAAABgY/iYzjUD6gcJw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B265.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Access Door Dimensions" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>After the access door frame is completed, it is then skinned on one side.&nbsp; A <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYRSJAK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00CYRSJAK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=JEWW6FR4YBWXOLLK" target="_blank">handle</a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M5GBFK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001M5GBFK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SAKOY6BOQBWPWXYV" target="_blank">hinges</a> were also added and riveted into place:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O62QVdkncw8/VCUFo3RAt5I/AAAAAAAABgo/xH92QpfqFMs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O62QVdkncw8/VCUFo3RAt5I/AAAAAAAABgo/xH92QpfqFMs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B266.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Access Door" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />Then the hole for the window is cut out leaving a lip of sheet metal that extends past the stud about 1/2" on all 4 sides.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIiH9VyFPl8/VCUGIUn-vlI/AAAAAAAABgw/UKYGgIjEFtI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build window" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIiH9VyFPl8/VCUGIUn-vlI/AAAAAAAABgw/UKYGgIjEFtI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B270.jpg" title="powder coating oven build window" width="476" /></a></div><br />Now the window installation is started.&nbsp; Installing the oven window takes more steps than you would think.&nbsp; When heated, glass and metal will expand but they will not expand exactly the same at the same temperatures.&nbsp; If you sealed the window directly to the metal using high-temp sealant, this would not allow for any flex and the window would likely crack due to the different expansion rates of the metal and glass. To solve this, first <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0002UEN1A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LQT2DXBGX3CVZR6Z" target="_blank">high-temp sealant</a> is added to the inside lip of sheet metal, and then an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Replacement-Gasket-Woodburning/dp/B0190YY782/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464340923&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=fiberglass+rope+gasket&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=1d8f29c2d09cff9276282b808846b39f" target="_blank">oven window seal</a> is added to all 4 sides in strips. <br /><br />High-temp sealant applied on one of 4 sides:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-itlKdR0891s/VCUGIuYaNVI/AAAAAAAABg0/dimrWlrneyE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven high-temp Sealant" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-itlKdR0891s/VCUGIuYaNVI/AAAAAAAABg0/dimrWlrneyE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B271.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven high-temp Sealant" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />And the oven window seal is laid down over the sealant.&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKAx_LbMf8I/VCULEqmVqTI/AAAAAAAABhQ/Mkb8qtiD-SY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKAx_LbMf8I/VCULEqmVqTI/AAAAAAAABhQ/Mkb8qtiD-SY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B275.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" width="475" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br />Then the window is laid in place and secured with thin strips of angle iron. Each of the angle iron pieces also has a piece of oven window seal applied using the high-temp sealant.&nbsp; The window is now secured in place and sealed, but it still has a little room for expansion and movement due to the soft seals. The window used appears to be about 8" x 8" and for safety, I recommend tempered glass.&nbsp; Your local hardware store should have pieces of glass that you can buy or you can easily find it online.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y4dXyXdqFg/VCULblrB5BI/AAAAAAAABhg/xVRO9yyswGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y4dXyXdqFg/VCULblrB5BI/AAAAAAAABhg/xVRO9yyswGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B278.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="476" />&nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This process is repeated on the inside of the door.&nbsp; This way, you will have 2 sheets of glass and an air gap to keep the heat from escaping.&nbsp; This window is installed in reverse order of the first window.&nbsp; First the thin angle iron with the oven window seal applied.&nbsp; Then the glass is laid into place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9Wfhxj3iqc/VCUNJfcYiqI/AAAAAAAABhs/IC288o_w_iI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iuKOpxG1KcA/VCUNJrHGAEI/AAAAAAAABh0/_cf7fikpHmc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iuKOpxG1KcA/VCUNJrHGAEI/AAAAAAAABh0/_cf7fikpHmc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B283.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="297" /></a><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9Wfhxj3iqc/VCUNJfcYiqI/AAAAAAAABhs/IC288o_w_iI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B280.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window" width="297" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then you will start work on the inside sheet metal door skin.&nbsp; Cut out the hole for the window leaving a lip that extends past the stud, apply the high-temp sealant and oven window seal on all 4 sides.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6ExKqSJ6bE/VCUNJs7KNJI/AAAAAAAABhw/Ey-6qdlg4UE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6ExKqSJ6bE/VCUNJs7KNJI/AAAAAAAABhw/Ey-6qdlg4UE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B286.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Seal" width="297" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Johns-Manville-Kraft-faced-Fiberglass-Insulation/dp/B00L8TA93K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464341212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=r13+fiberglass+insulation&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a224703e0421128f9efe26000413ae9e" target="_blank">Fiberglass insulation</a> is then added inside of the door and the inside door skin is riveted into place. Insulation can be cut by a utility knife, just use a straight edge like a 2x4 laid down on the insulation as a guide. When working with fiberglass, make sure to cover all of your skin up, wear a dust mask, gloves, and safety goggles.&nbsp; As for the sheet metal, you can either have it cut by your sheet metal supplier to your specifications or you can make the cuts yourselves.&nbsp; All cuts in this oven build (except for the large sheets) were cut using a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUW0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002L3RUW0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=GDQZ56ITD3NSTCEN" target="_blank">Dremel</a> with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004UDH9/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00004UDH9&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=RSDQD2TSLY2UA6U2" target="_blank">reinforced cut-off wheel</a>.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhqDkUVoBo/VCUOcM4s8_I/AAAAAAAABiQ/ZKjB8GrQTyk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhqDkUVoBo/VCUOcM4s8_I/AAAAAAAABiQ/ZKjB8GrQTyk/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B289.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" width="296" /></a></div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB6hJr1B2P8/VCUOb1hBtBI/AAAAAAAABiI/7CyBR1ScgIo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB6hJr1B2P8/VCUOb1hBtBI/AAAAAAAABiI/7CyBR1ScgIo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B291.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Window Insulation" width="296" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />The access door is now completed and can be set aside.&nbsp; The main door-frame is then insulated and the inside sheet metal skin is installed and riveted into place.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpmMXZW6Hgg/VCUSeVis7wI/AAAAAAAABis/rVL5IuZTbu4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpmMXZW6Hgg/VCUSeVis7wI/AAAAAAAABis/rVL5IuZTbu4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B252.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcfAHiQ4oI0/VCUSeS1qlRI/AAAAAAAABiw/S6CzZDjtq-8/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcfAHiQ4oI0/VCUSeS1qlRI/AAAAAAAABiw/S6CzZDjtq-8/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B253.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Insulation" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li3&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00CJDOS72" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br />Before the oven door is installed, the front facing of the ovens studs is finished off with strips of sheet metal so there is a smooth surface.&nbsp; This could have been avoided if steel framing tracks were around the front of the oven instead of conventional steel studs as the framing tracks have a smooth surface..&nbsp; Then a tadpole gasket is installed around the perimeter of the door opening and riveted into place.&nbsp; A tadpole gasket is used specifically for high heat environments and can withstand more than 1000 degrees F.&nbsp; You can order a tadpole gasket <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJDOS72/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00CJDOS72&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4MMOG67Y6CSUEQPH" target="_blank">here</a>.<br /><br />&nbsp;Here are the steel sheet metal strips being installed:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys0jJ3TN3OA/VCUZJDyKh2I/AAAAAAAABjM/99AMYDDhk7o/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Build" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys0jJ3TN3OA/VCUZJDyKh2I/AAAAAAAABjM/99AMYDDhk7o/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B150.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Build" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />And the tadpole gasket is then installed in one continuous loop all the way around.&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4QlmDrfdbb0/VCUZJGSisPI/AAAAAAAABjI/YKEy-DRr3U4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door Gasket" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4QlmDrfdbb0/VCUZJGSisPI/AAAAAAAABjI/YKEy-DRr3U4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B248.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door Gasket" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00CJDOS72" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br />The access door is then installed into the main door and the door is hung on the oven using 4 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00415GPUO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00415GPUO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=V6FWTUDKSZQ6ATHY" target="_blank">door hinges</a>.&nbsp; You can see that the access door uses 2 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBIEA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000CBIEA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=RCSN2WPSVNTVEJAP" target="_blank">slide latches</a> to keep it shut.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CKQTylc0fOM/VCUOcIYTQNI/AAAAAAAABiM/FQcu_S5utJ4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CKQTylc0fOM/VCUOcIYTQNI/AAAAAAAABiM/FQcu_S5utJ4/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B293.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S3HUuYozm9E/VCUOcgEoalI/AAAAAAAABig/sHfeGS8dymE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S3HUuYozm9E/VCUOcgEoalI/AAAAAAAABig/sHfeGS8dymE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B295.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Door" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5YW0K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=c81ef5cf91cdc0f2c1bbb67bfb7f9b5c" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy powder coating oven toggle clamp latch door" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pT4V-oa_760/V7b5mzRqm_I/AAAAAAAACuI/ApORQm5D0VAZhBqxXrgUb-vj0RDlwYqWgCEw/s200/71K0yTVJIFL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="168" /></a><br /><br /><br />The final touches on the door are 2 of these <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5YW0K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004K5YW0K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6LIFMBHSLMRKW4RI" target="_blank">Powertec Latch-action Toggle Clamps</a>.&nbsp; These will keep the door shut tight on the door gasket.&nbsp; You can see these installed on the upper left picture.<br /><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004K5YW0K" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />That wraps up the build of the powder coating oven door.&nbsp; As you can see, a lot of work went into this particular door to have all the features that the builder wanted.&nbsp; Another method I have seen for installing an access door with a window into the powder coating oven door is a bit of a shortcut compared to this.&nbsp; It does not look as nice, but it does save some money and some building.&nbsp; You could use an ordinary household oven door in place of building your own.&nbsp; Most already have a window installed and it is easy to add hinges to it. Here is an example: (credit for this idea goes to the user Duke46 of www.Powder365.com<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HsBTERhosfQ/VCUbhQHOXrI/AAAAAAAABjg/2IbFDzCkWbY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Powder Coating Oven Door" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HsBTERhosfQ/VCUbhQHOXrI/AAAAAAAABjg/2IbFDzCkWbY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Baccess%2Bdoor.JPG" title="DIY Powder Coating Oven Door" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00ADHNSGI" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Control Box</span></h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-paCUNC5-lJ4/V7b6whJhBaI/AAAAAAAACuU/bIczBIlNX9oZoAam9wwUDx9k1k0NlYaFwCLcB/s1600/SYL1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-paCUNC5-lJ4/V7b6whJhBaI/AAAAAAAACuU/bIczBIlNX9oZoAam9wwUDx9k1k0NlYaFwCLcB/s320/SYL1.jpg" width="320" /></a>The heating element installation was shown in <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.V0gXBL61iW9">Part 1</a> of this oven build.&nbsp; This oven uses 4 2000 watt heating elements.&nbsp; You will need a way to control the heating elements.&nbsp; This is done by building (or buying) a control box.&nbsp; You can always salvage the control panel from an existing household oven and figure out how to wire it up to control multiple heating elements but if you are building your own powder coating oven and have already come this far, then you should build your own control box.&nbsp; The best thing about building your own is the use of a PID oven controller.&nbsp; Your standard household oven controls the heating element using an On/Off controller.&nbsp; Meaning that if you set your oven to 400, ideally it would keep the elements on until it reaches 400 degrees and then turn them on and off to stay at 400 degrees.&nbsp; Notice I said "ideally",&nbsp; your household oven will not cycle the elements on and off repeatedly.&nbsp; There is a target window.&nbsp; If you set your temperature to 400, it may turn the elements on until 425 degrees is reached and then turn them off.&nbsp; And once the oven drops to 375 degrees, it will turn them on again.&nbsp; You can see there is a temperature swing of 50 degrees using this method.&nbsp; If you want properly cured powder coated parts, this is not the way to go.&nbsp; A PID controller uses a 0-100% signal to the heating elements.&nbsp; Using the PID controller, you will tune your powder coating oven so that a certain percentage = 400 degrees and it will maintain that signal throughout the curing process so you have a constant 400 degrees.&nbsp; If you want the full explanation, read this <a href="http://www.ospid.com/blog/what-is-pid-control/" target="_blank">article</a>.&nbsp; Another thing I want to point out is that not all PID controllers are created equally.&nbsp; There are lots of Chinese PID controllers on eBay that come with poor instructions and die very quickly, it is important to get a high quality PID controller.&nbsp; Trusted brands for PID controllers are <a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&amp;id=19" target="_blank">Auber</a> or Watlow, Watlow being the higher quality unit.<br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Solid State Relay or Contactor?</span></h4>A PID controller cannot handle the amperage needed to control the heating elements directly so instead, a Solid State Relay, also called an SSR, or a Contactor is used in combination with the PID controller.&nbsp; Whether you decide to use a contractor or an SSR is a personal decision but for whichever one you choose, people generally swear by one or the other.&nbsp; However, when purchasing your PID controller, you must select one that is either compatible with a SSR or contactor.&nbsp; Multiple SSR's or contactors can be used depending on how many total watts are required for your heating elements.&nbsp; This oven build uses 2 contactors, each one operating 2 heating elements, totaling 4 heating elements.&nbsp; If using a solid state relay, it is very important to order a high quality unit or read reviews about the specific item you are ordering as there are many knock-off's out there that burn up quickly.&nbsp; Fotek, Watlow &amp; Omega are all good brands however there are many counterfeit Fotek SSR's on eBay and Amazon. Another step that must be taken for the SSR is cooling.&nbsp; A SSR specific <a href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Replacement-Single-phase-Solid-State/dp/B00857T4VG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474995382&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=ssr+heatsink&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6063ba8a6066041b4702338af9a94f1b">heatsink</a> should be installed on the SSR with <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474990864&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=arctic+silver&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=88f597a9956c05fef7a6bd44e556d69a">thermal paste</a> and you can also go a step further and use a heatsink with a fan mounted on it (a CPU cooler).&nbsp; If you use a heatsink/fan combination, the fan will operate with DC power so to wire it up in your control box you will also need to incorporate an AC to DC converter board. A CPU cooler was not made to mount to a SSR but you can adapt them by drilling holes in the heatsink and mounting the SSR to it.&nbsp; If you decide to use a contactor, the cycle time must be increased in the PID controllers settings, otherwise the life of the contactor will be significantly shortened. <br /><br />This is the finished control box for this particular oven build:&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UXgp2mq2Y04/VCUfHx72YTI/AAAAAAAABjs/KV32_LSs8eE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build control box" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UXgp2mq2Y04/VCUfHx72YTI/AAAAAAAABjs/KV32_LSs8eE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B307.jpg" title="powder coating oven build control box" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />As you can see, it is very well done and has controls for everything installed in the oven.&nbsp; The exact equipment used to build this control box were not mentioned by the builder but I will put together a list of similar equipment below:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPA10Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B005UPA10Y&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=B2P3FM3W6UHTYHSF" target="_blank">Metal Electrical Box</a><br />Auber PID Controller - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-Alarm-Outputs-output/dp/B01MDQE0IX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500521755&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=auber+syl-2342&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=7f02896e5ddc9837d86860f141e55ac7">SYL-2342</a> if using a Contactor, or <a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1&amp;products_id=106">SYL-2362</a> if using a Solid State Relay <br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KV65MS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B008KV65MS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=TTUTU3ROHRTTGFAV" target="_blank">Inkbird IDT-E2RH or Sestos B2E 110-220v Timer</a> (upper left hand corner)<br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15110200ux0132-Indicator-Signal-AD16-22DS/dp/B01ENZ1CKE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500521989&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=led+indicator+pilot+light&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=136873ef21b9bc952ff4480ac3b38cac">4 Green Lights</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WNAX6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00N3WNAX6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=PTGPLM45VFY4T6KT">2 Red Led Buzzer Alarms</a><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Toggle-Switch-SPST/dp/B0002ZPBRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474998815&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=toggle+switch&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=22fedfa1a0dd754515d9a63671ec972a" target="_blank">4 Toggle Switches</a><br /><br />You don't have to make your box identical to this one, but using the links above will give you an idea of what type of parts you will need and where to purchase them.&nbsp; The builder did not go into wiring schematics inside of the box so unfortunately, that will not be discussed in this article.&nbsp; There is tons of information about how to wire the control box and it is just a Google search away. A great place to help you select parts and wire your control box is the <a href="http://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/powder-coating-questions/oven-building-forum">Caswell Plating Oven Building Forums</a>, specifically this <a href="http://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/powder-coating-questions/oven-building-forum/11867-oven-controls-build">thread</a>. &nbsp; Something to keep in mind is that you are dealing with AC electrical wiring which can kill you or burn your garage down.&nbsp; Please take this part of the oven build very seriously and do adequate research.<br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Control Box Kit with Included Wiring Diagram</b></span></h4><br />These options are more expensive than piecing together your own control box but the benefit is that when you purchase one of these kits, a wiring diagram is included.&nbsp; Auber instruments has put together several control box kits that you assemble yourself. There are two wattage classes available: up to 12,000 watts and up to 7,200 watts.&nbsp; The 12,000 watt kit would be plenty for this oven build featured in this article.&nbsp; The 7200 watt kit would not be able to handle the 4 2000 watt heating elements mentioned in this specific oven build, but if you were building a slightly smaller oven or an oven with fewer or smaller heating elements, this would be a great option. &nbsp; The kits include just about everything you need for the oven control box and it includes a large heat sink to keep the solid state relay cool.<br /><script type="text/javascript">amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true"; amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "powcoathecomg-20"; amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "manual"; amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; amzn_assoc_region = "US"; amzn_assoc_title = "Build-your-own Powder Coating Oven Controller Kit"; amzn_assoc_linkid = "dea5f1ea6043d454ece4dcc6caa4f6a4"; amzn_assoc_asins = "B06XZZJ5TP,B073WZZHXR,B073X1SNX4,B073X1CCY1"; </script><br /><script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script><br />Two newer kits are available that have a fan and light controller, however, your fan and light must have a 3 prong plug so that they can be plugged into the top of the box.&nbsp; If you would prefer to hard-wire your fan and lights into the box, it would be cheaper and cleaner to get one of the basic oven controller kits and add your own wiring and switches for fan and light control.&nbsp; Assembly is required. Click the links below for more info.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3ff31462a764b5d326ff3725207b3ccd"><b>12,000 watt Oven Controller Kit with Light &amp; Fan Control</b></a><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X1SNX4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3bb6f9b43e19361798843943d4e0f3b6"><b>12,000 watt Oven Controller Kit&nbsp;</b></a><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WZZHXR//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8ed39982290a8db63c3f7793e260e4b4"><b>7,200 watt Oven Controller Kit with Light &amp; Fan Control</b></a><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZJ5TP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&amp;imprToken=QS81UDMTWF0RzO8ipVANPA&amp;slotNum=21&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6555c09a9c96d7efe23d9e908415158d"><b>7,200 watt Oven Controller Kit</b></a><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating oven control box kit" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1325" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_cLOtv9oO4/WXAhF2_hmVI/AAAAAAAADDE/crDzxHLuVIMtLYWc-9RQfLt36VriKBHfwCLcBGAs/s400/poweder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bcontroller%2Bkit%2Bbox.jpg" title="powder coating oven control box kit" width="352" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d">12,000 watt Oven Controller with Fan and Light Control</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X1CCY1//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2cd32dfcd705b270950041f0a732a54d"><br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />When installing the control box on the oven, it is a good idea to use standoffs to space it away from the oven a little bit.&nbsp; If you install it directly on the oven, it can cause the electronics in the control box to heat up and kill them prematurely.&nbsp; A 1/2" air gap between the control box and powder coating oven is enough to keep the box cool.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" ispqj8s="" js3glug="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" us3fkoi="" vppqr5g="" xqdom1j="" zh0p17n=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><h3>Thermocouple</h3><h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>&nbsp;</h3>The powder coating oven uses a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00899A4LY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=JRSZ2VJ2UVVFVQB5" target="_blank">thermocouple</a> which reads the temperature of the oven and connects to the PID controller.&nbsp; The PID controller has to know what the temperature is inside of the oven in order to regulate it.&nbsp; Considering every component of this oven is recessed, of course the thermocouple is too.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=656e4301cfca95a77ca44b357de87436" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven thermocouple temperature sensor" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bx2x0aIXP8c/V7b5m3E8XBI/AAAAAAAACuE/itVsU6sjJHYluIqBQsUfEMb2QO2aYUAEQCEw/s200/51MOyqJ6JmL._SL1100_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br />A box will be constructed to house the thermocouple recessed inside of the wall.&nbsp; Here you will see how a piece of sheet metal is transformed into a professional looking product: <img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00899A4LY" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLyo40-BWw/VCU7Dc2DTzI/AAAAAAAABmo/QbfP4eHG_JE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLyo40-BWw/VCU7Dc2DTzI/AAAAAAAABmo/QbfP4eHG_JE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B164.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="296" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1A5aSP2sMY/VCU7Dj1n9bI/AAAAAAAABmw/dA0B0n6v7zQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1A5aSP2sMY/VCU7Dj1n9bI/AAAAAAAABmw/dA0B0n6v7zQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B165.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjGZ9Tegdx0/VCU7DvoMxBI/AAAAAAAABms/aVepTcZA6a0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjGZ9Tegdx0/VCU7DvoMxBI/AAAAAAAABms/aVepTcZA6a0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B168.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKbifycqQqM/VCU7EeNzBUI/AAAAAAAABm8/sHbb9ayuUJE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKbifycqQqM/VCU7EeNzBUI/AAAAAAAABm8/sHbb9ayuUJE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B169.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />And here is the thermocouple installed:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mi1kA9cXxHw/VCU7Ex0ufBI/AAAAAAAABnM/p5hwuEkZaLc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Housing" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mi1kA9cXxHw/VCU7Ex0ufBI/AAAAAAAABnM/p5hwuEkZaLc/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B176.jpg" title="powder coating oven thermocouple" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2WGRmwXrqkE/VCU7EzmRAoI/AAAAAAAABnE/O4Nk8VZ6s_s/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Location" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2WGRmwXrqkE/VCU7EzmRAoI/AAAAAAAABnE/O4Nk8VZ6s_s/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B177.jpg" title="Powder Coating Oven Thermocouple Location" width="476" /></a></div><br /><h3><br /></h3><h3>Wiring, Conduit, and Finishing Touches&nbsp;</h3><h3>&nbsp;</h3>Now that we have the control box and the heating elements installed, we need to wire them together.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ALN0JG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001ALN0JG&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LXYGGBR7CXXQ7VRQ" target="_blank">14 gauge high-temp wire</a> to connect to the individual components and pass through the wall.&nbsp; Once the wire is passed through the wall and is on the outside of the oven, you can switch to normal wiring which is much cheaper.&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ALN0JG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5c314bb8077bd25066c3338b1033a55e"><img alt="DIY POWDER COATING OVEN - High temperature wire" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CBS7axUutSc/V7b5mov4E6I/AAAAAAAACuA/4nDmhzPhbLwY1ESKdGhWQjpAl3_EIevpQCEw/s200/31pwdUy6LuL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>The wiring in this oven build has to travel from the control box to the heating elements, lights, fan, and thermocouple.&nbsp; The wiring passes through the oven wall to and is run on the outside through metal conduit and fittings.&nbsp; When wiring the powder coating oven, you must use high-temp wire anytime you are wiring inside of the oven walls.&nbsp; This oven uses <br /><br />Here you can see the layout of the 4 recessed heating elements along with the insulated panels mounted behind them.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irS0pZhpEO4/VCUwMSqC47I/AAAAAAAABj8/mMzvlAVE4eg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating elements" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irS0pZhpEO4/VCUwMSqC47I/AAAAAAAABj8/mMzvlAVE4eg/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B204.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating elements" width="475" /></a></div><br />Some elements will come with the wiring terminals needed to connect your wires to them.&nbsp; In the case that your heating elements do not come with them or if you are salvaging a heating element from a household oven, you can use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VNTR24/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B009VNTR24&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ZDDPY5L7GEF5YYVP" target="_blank">non-insulated ring terminal</a> crimped on the wire and screw it into the hole on the heating element connector. Very similar to this picture:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfOb66-rbbs/VCUxlfyHrXI/AAAAAAAABkI/j3Tlv9ENcWU/s1600/how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven heating element wiring" border="0" height="250" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GfOb66-rbbs/VCUxlfyHrXI/AAAAAAAABkI/j3Tlv9ENcWU/s1600/how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg" title="powder coating oven heating element wiring" width="400" /></a></div><br />After the high-temp wire is connected to the elements, the wire passes through the insulation panel and out of the side, drilling holes were necessary.&nbsp; Whenever a wire passes through the sheet metal, you will need to use a bulkhead fitting around the hole to prevent the wire insulation from being cut by the sharp sheet metal.&nbsp; At the wire exit point from the insulation panel, a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYK7IU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000VYK7IU&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=BTFVKU6HE5L7UHAG" target="_blank">metal conduit fitting</a> is used and then it travels through rigid metal conduit using 90 degree fittings until it reaches the control box.<br /><br />Here you can see the metal conduit fittings and the wire passing through them:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1sttMmTQ2rg/VCU0hlyY37I/AAAAAAAABkY/A3_ZHjRbH2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven wiring and insulation" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1sttMmTQ2rg/VCU0hlyY37I/AAAAAAAABkY/A3_ZHjRbH2k/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B210.jpg" title="powder coating oven wiring" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A662U83RRv4/VCU0hHkbyvI/AAAAAAAABkU/qWEXEbQ5ikY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven wiring" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A662U83RRv4/VCU0hHkbyvI/AAAAAAAABkU/qWEXEbQ5ikY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B208.jpg" title="powder coating oven wiring" width="297" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br />The conduit travels from the left oven wall heating element to the back heating element, then to the right oven wall heating element and then up to the control box. Also you can see now that the wiring is done, that the exterior of the oven has been skinned in 20 gauge sheet metal, the insulation has been installed into each of the insulation panels on the outside of the oven and the insulation panels have also been skinned in sheet metal.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g41hnjUEpAY/VCU0hmKndHI/AAAAAAAABkc/cYvgG7hYzNM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g41hnjUEpAY/VCU0hmKndHI/AAAAAAAABkc/cYvgG7hYzNM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B211.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L84ZvVl-k0c/VCU0iXgg2UI/AAAAAAAABko/ZaEZkOFAVLQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L84ZvVl-k0c/VCU0iXgg2UI/AAAAAAAABko/ZaEZkOFAVLQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B219.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring conduit" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;This is the wiring on the right side of the oven, it passes around from the rear heating element<br />insulation panel to the left wall, through conduit, then through the convection duct insulation panel, the last bit of wiring from the right heating element is added to the bundle, then up to the control panel. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeOBNRYQyyQ/VCU2mItDxhI/AAAAAAAABlM/8JVOfqm8yDY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring " border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eeOBNRYQyyQ/VCU2mItDxhI/AAAAAAAABlM/8JVOfqm8yDY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B220.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring " width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeHM4FglZsA/VCU2mBE8PyI/AAAAAAAABlQ/ojOhP8SnSrM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring control box" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeHM4FglZsA/VCU2mBE8PyI/AAAAAAAABlQ/ojOhP8SnSrM/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B223.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring " width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Then the panels are insulated:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRBctUp3jVw/VCU2mFB7JDI/AAAAAAAABlI/DGTvknK3hBo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build wiring" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRBctUp3jVw/VCU2mFB7JDI/AAAAAAAABlI/DGTvknK3hBo/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B232.jpg" title="powder coating oven build wiring" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>&nbsp;These are the metal conduit runs for the lights and the convection blower:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WF2nQPFl1O0/VCU3vaNnMtI/AAAAAAAABlo/O1aanDDgXTQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build high temp wiring" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WF2nQPFl1O0/VCU3vaNnMtI/AAAAAAAABlo/O1aanDDgXTQ/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B234.jpg" title="powder coating oven build high temp wiring" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;Everything is now skinned in sheet metal except for the top, it has come a long way since that metal stud frame in <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.V0gXBL61iW9">Part 1</a>. &nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q9vhFLmbJY/VCU3vSbFddI/AAAAAAAABls/sWfLfvvUPjs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build control panel" border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Q9vhFLmbJY/VCU3vSbFddI/AAAAAAAABls/sWfLfvvUPjs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B255.jpg" title="powder coating oven build control panel" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />This is the exterior sheet metal for the top of the oven with cutouts for the lighting and convection blower:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-qun9snR7s/VCU4iQHMZ9I/AAAAAAAABl8/3x0Q_isAmZI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven sheet metal" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-qun9snR7s/VCU4iQHMZ9I/AAAAAAAABl8/3x0Q_isAmZI/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B259.jpg" title="powder coating oven sheet metal" width="296" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CEVGrEEytfg/VCU4xnIacdI/AAAAAAAABmE/W_1YWJXWNWE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CEVGrEEytfg/VCU4xnIacdI/AAAAAAAABmE/W_1YWJXWNWE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B260.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighitng" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Insulation panels are made for the top of the oven using steel studs, you can also see the sheet metal skin for the insulation boxes with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/52171-4E-Pre-Galvanized-Eccentric-Knockouts/dp/B000HEFCKC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411725806&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=electrical+box" target="_blank">electrical boxes</a> used to connect the wiring to the lights:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MkrjLTIRgLs/VCU5ZilPyfI/AAAAAAAABmQ/sGnaT4f2mcY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven top" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MkrjLTIRgLs/VCU5ZilPyfI/AAAAAAAABmQ/sGnaT4f2mcY/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B298.jpg" title="powder coating oven top" width="297" /></a></div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qiOffvfoUyQ/VCU5Z6AVRRI/AAAAAAAABmU/XB85sK3kt2A/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven junction box" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qiOffvfoUyQ/VCU5Z6AVRRI/AAAAAAAABmU/XB85sK3kt2A/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B299.jpg" title="powder coating oven junction box" width="297" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The top insulation panels are all insulated and lighting electrical boxes and are installed and riveted into place: <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-guw3EnNtwqI/VCU5ZrP2JMI/AAAAAAAABmM/7pzu1zffHc0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven insulation" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-guw3EnNtwqI/VCU5ZrP2JMI/AAAAAAAABmM/7pzu1zffHc0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B300.jpg" title="powder coating oven insulation" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br />From here the last insulation panel on the top is skinned in sheet metal.<br /><br /><br /><h3>The Finished Product</h3>Let there be light!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rJt6zl5yJto/VCU9pRjuP9I/AAAAAAAABng/STyHNcU5rXE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rJt6zl5yJto/VCU9pRjuP9I/AAAAAAAABng/STyHNcU5rXE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B302.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighting" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />A view through the access door:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0gl6BJOFNU/VCU9pigNSvI/AAAAAAAABno/FqhgkQJR8WE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven lighting" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K0gl6BJOFNU/VCU9pigNSvI/AAAAAAAABno/FqhgkQJR8WE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B304.jpg" title="powder coating oven lighting" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;Heating elements work:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K8T0NCdVPlQ/VCU9qHIyT5I/AAAAAAAABnw/GKgszj-gKGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven build heating elements" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K8T0NCdVPlQ/VCU9qHIyT5I/AAAAAAAABnw/GKgszj-gKGU/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B306.jpg" title="powder coating oven build heating elements" width="475" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Control panel all lit up:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mriRqrrcUvE/VCU_ErwQJGI/AAAAAAAABoA/SWocNkhLjJ0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating oven control panel" border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mriRqrrcUvE/VCU_ErwQJGI/AAAAAAAABoA/SWocNkhLjJ0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B313.jpg" title="powder coating oven control panel" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" ispqj8s="" js3glug="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" us3fkoi="" vppqr5g="" xqdom1j="" zh0p17n=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><br />The complete powder coating oven (missing the access door for some reason?):<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Qb9dEAuLg0/VCU9pCr4UlI/AAAAAAAABnc/PTihek4-SH0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="how to build a powder coating oven" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Qb9dEAuLg0/VCU9pCr4UlI/AAAAAAAABnc/PTihek4-SH0/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" title="how to build a powder coating oven" width="424" /></a></div><br />So the powder coating oven build is now done.&nbsp; The builder of this oven at KNJ Custom Coating can now powder coat anything that will fit inside of this beautiful 6.5' tall x 3.4' deep x 3.4' wide powder coating oven.&nbsp; After the PID is tuned using the provided instructions, it is ready to go.&nbsp; The oven reaches 400 degrees is just under 20 minutes and the exterior sheet metal remains cool to the touch.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating suppllies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="Powder coating suppllies" /></a></div><br />I want to thank you for reading through this powder coating oven build.&nbsp; I hope you see that you can also build your own large powder coating oven and I really hope that this article and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VYth3VI72KV" target="_blank">How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part 1</a></b> help you achieve it.&nbsp;<b> If you enjoyed this article, let me know,&nbsp; You can leave a comment below, or like Powder Coating: The Complete Guide on Facebook, Twitter, or Goolge+ or subscribe for email updates using the links in the upper right hand corner of the site.&nbsp; Stay tuned for the next article. </b><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001ALN0JG" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com119tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-4986472696905455522014-06-19T15:20:00.000-07:002017-04-26T20:04:08.743-07:00How to Dry Compressed Air<div style="text-align: left;"><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" mvbcq0o="" thbshf8=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --> <br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b22b6c968e6043838439bafe9540f47d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="best air compressor filter powder coating" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgTtPok5OE/V7b86aS2XtI/AAAAAAAACu0/JDsDxrJZXGYPqNKDutSIjhbA49npvJdMACLcB/s200/81hSwrAkNTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="145" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">You have your air compressor and powder coating gun and you are ready to start powder coating? Not so fast, make sure you read this article first. When powder coating or sandblasting, you need clean, dry air. More than just compressed air comes out of the outlet of your air compressor. Water, dirt, and oil will also be included in this compressed air. It is very important that you treat your compressed air and remove these contaminants when using your air compressor for powder coating. The same information I am about to provide also applies to auto painting, compressed air machinery, or even just using common air tools. Any tool that connects to your air compressor will appreciate a clean air supply. &nbsp; Read this article: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.WQFfeMaP59N">How to Choose an Air Compressor</a> if you haven't purchased an air compressor yet.&nbsp; </span><br /><br /><a name='more'></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><br /><br /><h3></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">WHY DO THESE CONTAMINANTS NEED TO BE REMOVED?</span></h3><br /><br /><div style="text-align: right;"></div><div style="text-align: right;"></div><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Powder Coating: </span></h4><br />When you are powder coating, these contaminants will travel right through your powder coating gun and onto your part.&nbsp; These contaminants, when heated will cause issues in the final finish, usually in the form of "fisheyes".&nbsp; Fisheyes look like little craters or popped bubbles on the powder coated finish.&nbsp; If you look closely at the picture below, you will see this the effect of moisture or oil in the compressed air supply.&nbsp; The same concept applies to auto painting and liquid paints.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-erT4KDyfZpA/U6NqF_y5xDI/AAAAAAAABVQ/pIRsuPl0WA4/s1600/powder+coating+fisheyes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating aluminum outgassing" border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-erT4KDyfZpA/U6NqF_y5xDI/AAAAAAAABVQ/pIRsuPl0WA4/s640/powder+coating+fisheyes.jpg" title="powder coating aluminum outgassing" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Sandlasting:</span></h4><br />Water is the enemy of sandblasting. Water will mix with your blasting media and cause it to clump up and clog inside of your sandblasting gun.&nbsp; When the sandblasting gun clogs, the output of the media will be reduced or stop all-together which means you have to stop what you are doing, take apart the gun and clear the out the the wet media.&nbsp; This is an annoying and time-consuming process.&nbsp; Not to mention that you are blasting your part with wet and oily media which can cause issues when it comes time to powder coat.<br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">General Air Tools &amp; Machinery:</span></h4><br />Even if you are just using your air compressor to run an impact gun, you need to have relatively dry air.&nbsp; Any moisture or water in the air going through your air tool will cause corrosion inside of the tool which eventually cause it to fail.&nbsp; The same issue applies to other air operated machinery such as tire changing machines, plasma cutters, or lifts.&nbsp; You do not want water ruining this expensive equipment, so make sure that you are taking steps to eliminate it from your compressed air supply.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">WHY IS THERE WATER, OIL, AND DIRT PRESENT IN MY COMPRESSED AIR?</span></h3><br /><br /><b>Dirt</b> is in present in your air supply because it is present in the environment, and by dirt, I mean any solid particles that are floating around.&nbsp; The air compressor takes in air from around it, compressed it and stores it.&nbsp; Although there is a filter on the air compressor to stop dirt from entering the air compressor, it is not 100% effective at removing every particle.<br /><br /><br /><b>Oil </b>is present in the air supply because of oil blow-by in your air compressor.&nbsp; Oil-lubricated air compressors have seals to prevent oil from reaching the air, but they, again, are not 100% effective.<br /><br /><br /><b>Water </b>is the big one, it is the most difficult to remove and if you haven't researched it before, it may not make since why it is coming out of your air compressor. Air compressors take in large quantities of air and compact it into a much smaller space.&nbsp; There is always water present in air, and depending on what area of the world you live, there will be different amounts of it.&nbsp; This is called Humidity.&nbsp; While looking around your garage, you obviously don't see water floating around, but it is there.&nbsp; Considering your air compressor is storing a room full of air inside of a small tank, that same room full of air's water vapor is going to go into the tank too.&nbsp; This is where the water starts to add up into visible water droplets.&nbsp; If you never drain your air compressor, the water will continuously add up until you have <b>gallons </b>of water sitting inside of your compressor tank.&nbsp; It would seem simple enough, that just draining your compressor tank regularly would remove the water content.&nbsp; Unfortunately, this is not the case.&nbsp; Air compressors heat up the incoming air substantially when they are running.&nbsp; Hot air can hold much more water than cold air can and as you cool the hot air, the water vapor will condense into a liquid.&nbsp; The air stored inside of your tank will be very hot and when you release the air by allowing it to run to an air tool or powder coating gun, it will cool down along the way.&nbsp; This is when the water vapor drops out of the air and turns into a liquid which will then continue on to your tool.&nbsp; The whole idea behind compressed air dryers is to catch this water before it reaches your tool.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">HOW TO ELIMINATE THESE CONTAMINANTS FROM YOUR AIR COMPRESSOR</span></h3><br /><br /><br />There are many ways to eliminate these contaminants, ranging from some well thought-up diy setups to commercial products.&nbsp; I will explain many of these options in this article.&nbsp; Since water is the most difficult to remove, I will cover that first.&nbsp; The whole theory of removing the water revolves around cooling the compressed air to allow the water to drop out and then catch it.&nbsp; All of the following methods work using this theory.&nbsp; The reason why I don't just explain one single method is because of cost.&nbsp; The easiest and most efficient water removal method is also the most expensive.&nbsp; Multiple methods can be and sometimes need to be used on the same setup to achieve dry air.&nbsp; Lets get to the different methods now, I will start with the most effective method first.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Refrigerated Air Dryer:</b></span><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MUU732/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=72898b837ab435d4362b6b753ea7de3a" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor refrigerated air dryer moisture removal" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J9V_7tsco0o/V7b86HRM4aI/AAAAAAAACuw/jTQbzu0FUg4PsxQHxBeLtbrA1cXgaPAXQCEw/s200/71-HPpJ5R%252BL._SL1031_.jpg" title="" width="181" /></a> A refrigerated air dryer is a unit that you plumb your air compressor to that cools the air below its dew point causing the water to drop out of the air, it then separates the water from the air, heats the air back up to room temperature and sends it on its way.&nbsp; If you look inside of one of these units, you will see that it functions very similar to an air conditioning unit.&nbsp; One simple solution to dry air all contained in one unit.&nbsp; It sounds like the perfect answer doesn't it? Why would anyone try to rig up other ways to dry their air if a magical unit like this is available?&nbsp; The answer is<b> COST</b>.&nbsp; These units start at about $700 brand new, and if you manage to find a used one, it won't be that much cheaper as they hold their value very well.&nbsp; If you do have the budget for it, or you have plan on putting a professional powder coating system in place, look no further than the Refrigerated air dryer as it is the best solution. They are very low-maintenance, the only downside after the initial purchase is that it has to be plugged in to work so it may have a small effect on your electric bill.&nbsp; These units need to be sized according to your compressor.&nbsp; The higher the cfm output of your compressor, the bigger compressed air dryer you will need. <br /><br /><br />This Ingersoll Rand D25IN model is an entry level, yet high quality refrigerated air dryer.&nbsp; It will work great for the average 60-80gallon single stage compressor and is capable of flowing 15cfm.&nbsp; It receives great reviews and is a reliable unit. It can be found on Amazon for $739.00 which is the cheapest I have been able to find it: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CWAJXM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002CWAJXM&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=GVXJUGGZZLX5YYVF">Ingersoll Rand Refrigerated Air Dryer D25IN</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002CWAJXM" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> If you have a 2-stage compressor that is putting out more than 15cfm, then this is the next model up and it is capable of flowing 25cfm: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MUU732/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001MUU732&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=VFLIUJYJ55JQGVWU">Ingersoll Rand Refrigerated Air Dryer D42IN</a>.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofzQm1jhAWs/V7b9gxo5CWI/AAAAAAAACu8/IeQHaNjar8w3ObE2FPj43Mypcxc_b89UACLcB/s1600/image_11243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Compressed Air Dryer" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofzQm1jhAWs/V7b9gxo5CWI/AAAAAAAACu8/IeQHaNjar8w3ObE2FPj43Mypcxc_b89UACLcB/s200/image_11243.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> The units mentioned above are made by Ingersoll Rand which is is a huge and trusted name in the compressed air industry so the quality is pretty much assured, I would recommend nothing less than the above units for a professional powder coating shop.&nbsp; However, $750+ can be a lot of money if you are DIY powder coating on a budget.&nbsp; Harbor freight also sells a Refrigerated Air Dryer at half the cost and it also has great reviews.&nbsp; I have talked to people that have had a Harbor Freight unit in place for 10 years with&nbsp; no issues.&nbsp; It us usually only sold online and not available in Harbor Freight stores. You can see more about it here: <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html" target="_top">Harbor Freight Compressed Air Dryer</a><img border="0" src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-7209741-10863227" height="1" width="1" /><br /><br /><br />If you decide to use a refrigerated air dryer, it is advisable to put a filter before it to catch particles before they enter the dryer.&nbsp; The filters are explained right below. <br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span> <br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Water Trap / Filter:&nbsp;</span> </h4><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBINA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4b1bbaadc90f4213a0b06e1506001039" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cheap air compressor water trap" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hTfnQno9EeQ/V7b86BdNzkI/AAAAAAAACvA/SLUyRRgWfd8jxGpRY5hkrAbP-qbPT81zwCEw/s200/415X2K26N8L.jpg" title="" width="86" /></a> A <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBINA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000CBINA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SBHNHSOFXR2PXTOT">Water Trap</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000CBINA" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> or Filter is another commercial product like the refrigerated air dryer that is aimed at removing water from your air compressor.&nbsp; These are very simple products.&nbsp; Air goes in one side and circulates around a bowl before exiting through the center which also usually has a filter element to trap particles.&nbsp; The air then exits the water trap.&nbsp; As the air circulates around the bowl, the water is supposed to stick to the bowl where it collects in the bottom of the trap which has a drain.&nbsp; This product does work, but only if you <b>COOL </b>the air first.&nbsp; It will not remove water from hot air when the water is in the form of vapor.&nbsp; Your air must be cool before it enters the water trap for it to be effective.&nbsp; It also does not catch all of the water so it is common to see these in a series to try to catch as much as possible.&nbsp; Keep in mind that every one of these filters is a restriction and creates a pressure drop in your air line.&nbsp; Powder coating guns do not need a whole lot of cfm so that is not a big deal, but when sandblasting, you want access to all of the air that you have available.&nbsp; Alone, these are good enough for using air tools, but when you need really dry air, like when powder coating, sandblasting, or painting, they work best when combined with other methods. This is a cheap common water trap that has good reviews and is from a reliable name: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBINA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000CBINA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SBHNHSOFXR2PXTOT">Campbell Hausfeld Air Filter</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000CBINA" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating supplies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="powder coating supplies" /></a></div><br /><br />With a filter like the one linked to above, the bowl is clear so that you can see the water accumulating.&nbsp; When the bowl gets full, you must manually drain it with the little knob on the bottom.&nbsp; If you fail to drain it, the bowl water will start to feed right back into your air line, so don't forget to keep it drained. <br /><i><br /></i> <i>Note</i>:&nbsp; <i>Sometimes these water traps come attached to a regulator and an air tool oiler.&nbsp; The regulator is no problem, but make sure you absolutely do not put an oiler on the hose you will be using for sandblasting or powder coating.&nbsp; An oiler is meant to add a steady supply of oil for your air tools, if you currently have an oiler on your powder coating gun air line, remove it and replace the air hose with a clean one immediately. </i><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Desiccant Air Dryer</span></h4><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4b6bc15fabacf3972ee4e845e8bd38b1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Dessiccant compressed air dryer for powder coating or painting" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgTtPok5OE/V7b86aS2XtI/AAAAAAAACvA/m-QULwU7RwoIfH4oUK5Vzek8cqdWjL1nACEw/s200/81hSwrAkNTL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="146" /></a> A desiccant air dryer may look very similar to a water trap like the one talked about right above a the construction is very similar.&nbsp; The difference is that a desiccant air dryer is filled with tiny little beads that absorb water called desiccant beads.&nbsp; These beads chemically absorb water and alone, this item is great for dry air.&nbsp; However, the beads do eventually fill up with water and loose their effectiveness until they cannot absorb any more water at all.&nbsp; The beads are often color changing, they may start out as purple, and then change to pink once they are full.&nbsp; A neat little trick with these is that you can spread the beads out on a cookie sheet and bake them in the oven which will dry them back out again. When baking them, set the oven at around 250 to 300 degrees F and just remove the beads from the oven when they are their original color. &nbsp; Once they are dry, you can put them back into use.&nbsp; Desiccant beads are not cheap so this method will save you a lot of money.&nbsp; These beads will still eventually break down and need replacing eventually.&nbsp; These desiccant dryers work great if you intermittent tools like a powder coating gun.&nbsp; The beads should last a long time.&nbsp; However, for a sandblasting cabinet, that you could use for hours at a time, the beads will need baked/replaced much more frequently.&nbsp; It is best to use these as a final filter before the tool along with another water removing device before hand that catches the bulk of the water.&nbsp; This will get you the longest use out of the beads.&nbsp; The standard in Desiccant Air dryers is the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002PR8ZXK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=GYKFI6DKKDXPLQF5">DeVilbiss QC3</a>.&nbsp; It is used by auto body shops as a final filter before the paint gun. It also removes dirt particles down to .1 microns, removes oil, and it has a built in air regulator. &nbsp; <br /><br /><br />If you would like to make a DIY Desiccant Dryer, you can actually make you own using pipes and fittings available at a local hardware store.&nbsp; See post #10 in this thread for how this guy did it: <a href="http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131919&amp;showall=1">Garage Journal Board Thread</a>. Once you have it put together, you just need to fill it with the beads which you can buy separate: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OUXA2Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000OUXA2Q&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=KW3CR65CS5NRBQO7">Jar of Replacement Desiccant - 1 Quart Capacity</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000OUXA2Q" height="1" separator="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;" /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hloY0EWUPpE/U6PJ-2Nf6sI/AAAAAAAABVc/RurtFd6nlYY/s1600/diy+dessicant+dryer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY cheap desiccant filter" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hloY0EWUPpE/U6PJ-2Nf6sI/AAAAAAAABVc/RurtFd6nlYY/s320/diy+dessicant+dryer.jpg" title="DIY cheap desiccant filter" width="300" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Heat Exchanger / Aftercooler</span></h4><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN6TPU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e9c25833d4ec20295fde9646e092eb5d" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy air compressor after cooler moisture removal" border="0" height="152" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33NSR5ldEuM/V7b86Zq8oxI/AAAAAAAACvA/CGKeBkvYx3cqA4xU0RAOHOtmDOuXKl_8gCEw/s200/81xLtxrp4%252BL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>A heat exchanger such as an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN6TPU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000CN6TPU&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LXMKYQYVQXM3HYIR">Oil Cooler</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CN6TPU" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, transmission cooler, or automotive a/c condenser can be used to cool the compressed air followed by a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBINA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000CBINA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LMPFYVNKXFCECCCG">water trap</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000CBINA" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> to catch the water.&nbsp; The most common placement of the heat exchanger when using this method is actually right after the air compressor pump and before the tank. Meaning the air is cooled and dry before it even enters the tank. You can then supplement the heat exchanger with a fan blowing across it.&nbsp; This has a couple of benefits, first is that your tank will remain much dryer inside so that reduces chances of the inside of the tank rusting.&nbsp; Also a nice side-effect is that your tank will be able to hold more air as the air.&nbsp; Colder air is denser, the denser the air going in to your tank, the more air you will actually have in your tank.&nbsp; You can see a very detailed build thread of a guy using an oil cooler to cool off his compressed here in this thread: <a href="http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161113">Garage Journal Air Compressor Aftercooler</a>. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMEVpxbXeXA/U6PtLqGiQ6I/AAAAAAAABWY/rSZYjxy2JX0/s1600/aftercooler3011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Air Compressor Oil Cooler water trap moisture water removal" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMEVpxbXeXA/U6PtLqGiQ6I/AAAAAAAABWY/rSZYjxy2JX0/s1600/aftercooler3011.jpg" title="DIY Air Compressor Oil Cooler" width="300" /></a></div>If you would like to go this route and position the cooler between the pump and the compressor, you will need to make your own copper lines coming from the pump to the cooler, and then from the cooler into the tank. Do not use rubber here as the air exiting the pump can be over 300 degrees F. <img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CN6TPU" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Copper or Black Iron Pipe:</span></h4><br /><br />Your air lines themselves and the way you plumb them can be used to remove water from your compressor.&nbsp; A long length of metal pipe such as copper or black iron will absorb a lot of heat from the air running through it which allows the water to drop out of suspension.&nbsp; The water can then be trapped by a water trap or a T-Fitting and a Ball Valve.&nbsp; See the example below.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4zzFsxxUG4/U6Pl-qPvLbI/AAAAAAAABWI/S3cJQZvumtg/s1600/air+compressor+piping3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Air Compreessor zig zag piping moisture" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4zzFsxxUG4/U6Pl-qPvLbI/AAAAAAAABWI/S3cJQZvumtg/s1600/air+compressor+piping3.png" title="Air Compreessor zig zag piping moisture" /></a></div><br />Arranging your piping like the example above uses gravity to let the water fall down into the lower segment where it can be collected and removed while the air can continue on its path. When you open the ball valve, the collected water will drain out.&nbsp; This is called a "drip leg."&nbsp; You can use a series of these run up and down the wall to allow the the air to cool as it moves through the piping.&nbsp; After each drip leg, the water is reduced more and more and you should set it up so by the time you drain the last drip leg, no water should come out.&nbsp; This method works well and some people use this as a stand-alone method to remove water from the air. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Bucket of Ice Water:</span></h4><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE8ER0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a6837d7d8b50a416f4c95d9c9599c31f" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="diy air comrpessor moisture removal ice water bucket copper coil" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8-vZcZrOF9k/V7b86P_hIbI/AAAAAAAACvA/T_EWSSPtEOQlPE9SF3qumgc6c2iyolEpACEw/s200/41yVWxtrAtL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> This method is the cheapest of all the methods mentioned above but it only lasts until your ice melts. The idea is that you take a 50ft air hose coming out of your air compressor and coil it up in a bucket of ice water.&nbsp; The hose then immediately goes to a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CBINA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000CBINA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LMPFYVNKXFCECCCG">water trap</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000CBINA" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />.&nbsp; The ice water will cool the hose which will cool the air.&nbsp; After the air is cooled, and the water vapor turns into water droplets, the water trap is there to catch the water.&nbsp; This method does work but obviously it involves constantly replenishing the ice.&nbsp; An upgrade to this method is using an copper coil instead of an air hose.&nbsp; A rubber air hose is a very poor choice for heat transfer.&nbsp; It acts as insulation.&nbsp; By using a copper coil, you can transfer much more of the heat into the ice water.&nbsp; To preserve the ice for longer periods of time, you can use a cooler in place of the bucket.&nbsp; You will need to drill and inlet and outlet hole in the cooler and then fill the gaps with some expanding foam to make a good seal.&nbsp; The cooler will stop the ice from melting for a longer period of time, or you can take it one step further and put a bucket of ice water in a mini-fridge.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AmVZtYquhgw/U6P79VBSOLI/AAAAAAAABWo/snunfo6_IrM/s1600/air+compressor+cooler+fill+with+ice+water.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor ice bucket cooler" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AmVZtYquhgw/U6P79VBSOLI/AAAAAAAABWo/snunfo6_IrM/s1600/air+compressor+cooler+fill+with+ice+water.png" title="air compressor ice bucket cooler" /></a></div><br />If you decide to use this method, the most important thing is keeping the loops of the coil horizontal and you want the loops to spiral in a downward pattern with the water trap being at the lowest point.&nbsp; This allows the water to drain downwards towards the water trap and it prevents water from pooling up inside of the coils.<br /><h4><br /></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Drain the Tank</span></h4><br /><br />Regardless of any of the above methods that you decide to use to dry your air, you need to drain the air compressor tank frequently.&nbsp; There is a drain on the bottom of the air compressor tank that you will open slightly to let nasty water/oil stew drain out of and then close it once it is done draining.&nbsp; Do this every day that you use your air compressor.&nbsp; If you are using your air compressor for extended periods of time, drain it several times while you are using it.&nbsp; This will keep the tank free of rust and it is your very first line of defense against removing moisture from your air lines. If water is allowed to build up in the tank, over the years, the tank will rust internally making it weaker.&nbsp; I have seen a tank that exploded due to internal corrosion and it took out half of the garage, if anyone was present in the garage at the time, it could have been deadly.&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ae93b94fe4947c510892a2c6caa2247a" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor automatic tank drain" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UAnYDv7YnX4/V7b86GLIuLI/AAAAAAAACvA/QtaUYbf89mIELfwiAqTy6ZJuE2mIoda_wCEw/s320/412S58WqtSL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br />Unfortunately, draining the tank is a pain because the valve sits underneath your compressor.&nbsp; I picked up this <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_150643-1126-PA300500AV_0__?productId=3736409">Drain Extension Kit</a> which extends the drain to a ball valve in a more accessible place.&nbsp; However, with the drain now pointing horizontal, whenever I drained it, it would shoot the nasty stew all over the floor.&nbsp; I added a piece of tubing to the end and stuck the end of tubing into a container that I dump out every once in awhile. The ball valve on the kit is really cheap and I fully expect it to break soon.&nbsp; When it breaks, I will be upgrading to an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00273WV78&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LSSSOVQRBLBM72AZ">auto drain</a>.&nbsp; An auto drain is electronically controlled and on a timer so it periodically drains your tank for you.&nbsp; No more hassle when draining the tank.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Removing Oil</span></h4><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GI0H2M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=9b071fd8990a19027890458a9565ca8c" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor moisture oil removal filter motor guard" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RsOI0Kwb8d8/V7b86IZd8MI/AAAAAAAACvA/7Yo1lRLa6sEaHwXbgSA4OyqrLYmvTi_GwCEw/s200/61LG5tns74L._SL1159_.jpg" title="" width="155" /></a>To remove any oil from your compressed air lines, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHZHP4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000HHZHP4&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=QFNYFTRS6NGCHKNN">Motor Guard Filter</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000HHZHP4" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> has been the choice for decades.&nbsp; It is also known as a toilet paper filter.&nbsp; People even used to use them in their cars back in the day in place of an oil filter.&nbsp; I would consider the Motor Guard filter to be a point of use filter.&nbsp; Meaning you use a quick-disconnect fitting on each side of it and only use it when you need the cleanest air possible, like when powder coating.&nbsp; I do not use it when sand blasting.&nbsp; The Motor Guard filter uses a cartridge that looks very much like a roll of toilet paper which is compressed between the top and bottom housing.&nbsp; The compression of the roll causes the layers to spread out slightly allowing some room in between each one.&nbsp; The air passes through the voids in the layers of paper and any oil or dirt particles will be trapped.&nbsp; A neat trick I have read about is to use actual rolls of toilet paper to replace the filter when it reaches the end of its life.&nbsp; Apparently the toilet paper works almost as good as the Motor Guard replacement filters. I have yet to replace my cartridge but when it is too nasty to use any more I will try it out.&nbsp; When choosing the toilet paper, they say the cheaper, the better, meaning the single ply stuff that feels like sand paper.&nbsp; The standard series of Motorguard filters removes oil droplets but unfortunately will not remove oil in vapor form.&nbsp; For completely oil free air(&lt;.01 PPM), the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00443GZYO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00443GZYO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=26XFQKZL6KZHS4HU" target="_blank">Motorguard MC-100</a> filter can be used.&nbsp; The MC-100 uses activated carbon to remove the vaporized oil from the air lines.&nbsp; This level of oil removal is usually only reserved for spraying waterbourne base paints, but if you want to be 100% certain that there will be no oil making it into your powder coat operation, this filter will handle it. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />I have now provided you with a bunch of different ways to remove any water or moisture from your air compressor.&nbsp; Depending on your budget and your diy abilities, you can select which method or methods suits you best.&nbsp; All of the methods are effective and proven to work.&nbsp; Some of these options are expensive, but do not let that dissuade you from powder coating.&nbsp; If you are just getting started and want to try it out, stick an air hose in a bucket of ice and start coating.&nbsp; As you continue along, you will improve your equipment and see the need for cleaner air.&nbsp; These items are not just powder coating specific, if you ever want to use a paint gun, or a plasma cutter, you need air that is just as clean and dry. <br /><br />In the next article, I will be discuss <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2016/05/plumbing-your-air-compressor.html#.V7b_xDW1iW-"><b>How to Plumb your Air Compressor</b></a> and what types of piping to use.&nbsp; I originally intended it to be included in this article, but this article is long enough as-is.&nbsp; However, make sure to check out the next article as plumbing your air compressor goes hand-in-hand with everything I mentioned above.&nbsp; As always, thanks for reading and if you enjoyed this article, don't forget to leave a comment or follow Powder Coating: The Complete Guide on any of our social media pages linked below. <br /><div style="text-align: left;"><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" mvbcq0o="" thbshf8=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --></div>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-84586646873721201872013-10-18T21:54:00.000-07:002016-10-03T00:36:50.374-07:00Choosing an Air Compressor<h2 style="text-align: center;"></h2><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Quincy-QT-7-5-Lubricated-Reciprocating-Compressor/dp/B00BJ2F97M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q79DYRYFYA7JDWVK81WW&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b5ef4ea4fcea2a68ef45ebc1f9e754dc" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Qunicy 80 gallon 2 stage air compressor 23.8cfm @100psi" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TVLdXwdGRQI/V74Wsumx0uI/AAAAAAAACvo/6Jm2v8kmTeINlYr6hgsUyDK0i3WlqRV3wCEw/s200/41586d3Up-L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>In this article, I will explain how to choose an air compressor that would be suitable for powder coating. Regardless of powder coating, an air compressor is one of the best tools to have in the shop.&nbsp; By itself, all an air compressor does it make noise and take up space, but the tools that it can power are great.&nbsp; Air tools are often cheaper than their electric counterpart, and most of them are better.&nbsp; If you are thinking that you don't want to get into powder coating because you have to go out and buy a big expensive air compressor, just think about how much an air compressor can help you out in the garage.&nbsp; I don't even include my air compressor in my powder coating budget because of how many other things I use it for.&nbsp; It is another one of those things, that when you own one, you will never want to be without one again.</b></span><br /><b></b><br /><a name='more'></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" ws79l6a=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Parts of an Air Compressor</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;">In case you have no idea what an air compressor is, here is a little explanation. &nbsp; A reciprocating air compressor consists of basically 3 major parts:</div><div style="text-align: left;">-A <b>tank</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">-An air <b>pump</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">-A <b>motor</b></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zZ7JbDlnGw/UmIEv1WzNFI/AAAAAAAABPk/59dnxvzv7B8/s1600/COMPRESSOR+PARTS.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Parts of an Air Compressor" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zZ7JbDlnGw/UmIEv1WzNFI/AAAAAAAABPk/59dnxvzv7B8/s400/COMPRESSOR+PARTS.png" title="Parts of an Air Compressor" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The motor can be gas or electric but if you putting it in your garage, absolutely do not use a gas powered air compressor. A gas engine produces carbon monoxide which is a deadly, poisonous gas which is not something you want to have in an enclosed room. You can place a gas powered compressor outside and run the lines inside but it is still not as convenient as an electric compressor.&nbsp; The <b>motors</b> job is to turn the pump.&nbsp; The <b>pump</b> is responsible for actually sucking in and compressing the air.&nbsp;&nbsp; The compressed air from the pump is then plumbed into a <b>tank</b> which stores the air. &nbsp; There are, of course, many different configurations and sizes of these 3 components which determine the efficiency and cost of the compressor.</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Understanding Air Compressor Specs</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nN4SYWx0WYw/UmIGm7ES4uI/AAAAAAAABPw/tI3COki1_q8/s1600/Picture+126427238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Understanding air compressor specs" border="0" height="150" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nN4SYWx0WYw/UmIGm7ES4uI/AAAAAAAABPw/tI3COki1_q8/s200/Picture+126427238.jpg" title="Understanding air compressor specs" width="200" /></a>Lets discuss some of the specs that you would see when shopping for an air compressor. Hint:&nbsp; The numbers you see on that big flashy sticker smack-dab on the front of the compressor are not so important when choosing one...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Tank size&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The tank size determines the physical size of the air compressor.&nbsp; If it were not for the tank, the motor would be running constantly to supply any compressed air.&nbsp; The pump will pump air into the tank until the tank reaches a specified pressure(psi). &nbsp; Once the tank is filled with the specified amount of air, the motor will shut off and will not operate again until the the air pressure inside the tank is reduced to a specified amount.&nbsp; The tank size determines how frequently the the motor runs.&nbsp; Another way to word it is, the tank size determines how many air tool related tasks you can do before the motor starts to run.&nbsp; A 5 gallon tank would require that the motor run for virtually every task.&nbsp; For an example, removing one bolt with an impact gun will likely empty the tank enough to cause the motor to run when you have a 5 gallon tank.&nbsp; A continuous air tool like a sandblaster uses so much air, it would empty the 5 gallon tank so fast that the motor would never shut off. &nbsp; You can have the biggest motor and pump in the world, but if it is attached to a 3 gallon tank, the motor will run very frequently, but for a very short period of time.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If you have a very small motor/pump and a huge tank, the motor will run less frequently, but each running session will last for a very long time.&nbsp; A good all-around tank size for a home garage is 60 to 80 gallons, but honestly, the bigger, the better. </span></h4><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Horsepower (HP)</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">The horsepower rating applies to the motor.&nbsp; This hp rating of an air compressor is not extremely relevant to your purchasing decision.&nbsp; The big "HP" number you see stickered onto the front of most air compressors, is usually an overrated peak hp number.&nbsp; This peak hp number is irrelevant to the motors actual running hp which is usually nowhere to be found on the compressor.&nbsp; An easy equation to figure out the actual running hp of the motor is this:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Amps x Volts = Watts</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Watts x .00134 = Horsepower</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I will fill in the equation using the specs from my air compressor motor.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">15 amps x 240 volts = 3600 watts</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">3600 watts x .00134 = 4.824hp</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So theoretically, the motor on my air compressor should produce 4.824hp, but that would only be if the motor was 100% efficient.&nbsp; There are frictional losses that reduce that number by about 10%.&nbsp; So..</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">4.824 / 1.10 = 4.385hp</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The actual running hp of the motor is probably pretty close to 4.4hp, yet my air compressor has a giant sticker on the front that states 7hp.&nbsp; Manufacturers like to over-rate the hp figure for whatever reason and it is not just the cheap manufacturers.&nbsp; Most of them are guilty of it.&nbsp; Now you will know how to figure out the actual horsepower of your air compressor motor.&nbsp; But again, it is not all that important.&nbsp; The motors requirement is simply to be able to turn the pump and to do so without putting a bunch of strain on the motor.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">PSI</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">This number is another marketing number.&nbsp; It will be on the sticker in big bold numbers right next to the fake hp number.&nbsp; The psi is a measure of the pressure of the air inside of the tank.&nbsp; A common "Max PSI" for a garage-sized air compressor is around 150psi.&nbsp; Using the 150psi example, the motor will run, turning the pump, which pumps air into the tank, until pressure inside of the tank reaches 150psi.&nbsp; Then the motor will shut off.&nbsp; This number is also pretty irrelevant to your purchasing decision.&nbsp; Along with your air compressor, you will need an air compressor regulator.&nbsp; An air compressor regulator takes that input of 150psi, and reduces it to a psi that you select.&nbsp; I have never found a need for more than 120psi.&nbsp; A powder coating gun operates at around 35psi max and sandblasting is usually done at less than 100psi.&nbsp; So as long as the air compressor has a max pressure of more than 100psi, it will work fine.&nbsp; Do not buy one compressor over the other because one states 150psi and the other states 175psi.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" ws79l6a=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">CFM</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><div style="text-align: left;">This number is very important, if you could only go by one specification when buying an air compressor, this would be the one to use. CFM (cubic feet of air per minute) determines how much air the pump can put out per minute. &nbsp; The higher the CFM, the faster it can fill the tank with air.&nbsp; If you are using a tool that takes more CFM than the pump is capable than putting out, once you use the reserve air in the tank and the compressor starts running, it will run until you stop using the tool and it can catch up.&nbsp; An easier way to explain CFM is this: Your pump is constantly trying to fill the air tank.&nbsp; That is its job.&nbsp; Any air tool that is being used is a leak in the air tank.&nbsp; How much CFM the tool uses is a measurement of how big the leak is.&nbsp; If the tank is leaking out more air than the pump can put into it, the pump will never shut off.&nbsp; If the tool only uses .01cfm less air than the pump can produce, the pump will run 99% of the time. This only applies to continuous use tools however.&nbsp; If you use a impact wrench for 2 seconds, that's only a 2 second leak.&nbsp; A sandblaster presents a continuous leak though.&nbsp; As long as you are holding down the trigger on your sandblaster, it represents a leak.&nbsp; </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The rule of thumb for deciding how much CFM you need is to figure out what tool you will be using that requires the most CFM and add 3 CFM to be safe.&nbsp; Say your sandblasting gun will be using the most air and it uses 10cfm at 90psi.&nbsp; You should plan on getting an air compressor that can output at least 13cfm at 90psi.&nbsp; If you plan on having someone else use the compressor at the same time, say 2 sandblasting guns being used at once, then double that number and you now need 26cfm at 90psi. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-HS5180-Commercial-5-Horsepower/dp/B0055OM9JQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=RF19BJ40D6YXRCPS90Z3&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a0bf2827134746564e9c5dc1e9775a42"><img alt="2 stage air compressor 80 gallon 5hp" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LMOZj99PmNA/V74WtLHCcmI/AAAAAAAACvg/K40h2eoK6FwoFUstvBxkwJaDBkPUiAmEgCLcB/s200/81sIAEqp2DL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Other things to look at when choosing a compressor:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Belt driven pump vs.Gear Driven Pump&nbsp; </b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Choose belt driven, they are much quieter.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Oiled vs. Oil-less</b></span><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Choose Oiled.&nbsp; Oil-less compressors are very loud and the pumps usually have a shorter lifespan. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>RPM</b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Cheaper air compressor motors will run at 3,450 rpm.&nbsp; If you can afford it, try to find an air compressor that has a lower rpm rating.&nbsp; They will produce less heat and also be quieter.&nbsp; Again, I say, only if you can afford it.&nbsp; Most all air compressors that you will find locally that are targeted at home use will have an rpm rating of 3,450. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Single Stage vs. Two+ Stage</b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GOEI9HM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=75f704dfb207ab286bbea055383eb572" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="80 gallon 2 stage air compressor for powder coating and sandblasting" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JvStpLtYorQ/V74XCJkqJ0I/AAAAAAAACvk/cf6o_Fz4vl09eiDe6yPELNk4986DmnsZwCLcB/s200/41edVAkQQ1L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>A <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GOEI9HM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00GOEI9HM&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=YMQM3JYXDWEUKZEK" target="_blank">2-stage Air Compressor</a></b> uses a pump with 2 pistons.&nbsp; The first piston will compressor the air to a certain psi and then send it through a cooler and then to another piston that will compress it to a higher psi.&nbsp; A 3 stage would use the same principle but with 3 pistons.&nbsp; A 2 stage air compressor is capable of outputting much more CFM than a single stage.&nbsp; IF you can afford it, a 2-stage compressor will provide you with all the compressed air you ever need in a home shop.&nbsp; WARNING: Just because an air compressor has 2 cylinders does not mean that it is a 2-stage air compressor.&nbsp; There are many single stage twin cylinder air compressors out there.&nbsp; </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b> <b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Why You Need an Air Compressor for Powder Coating</span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Hopefully by now, you have a better understanding of what all the numbers mean on an air compressor and hopefully I wrote that well enough that you could actually understand it :)&nbsp; Lets talk about the type of compressor you would need for powder coating.&nbsp; There are basically 3 tools that an air compressor will operate that you will need to powder coat:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Powder Coating Gun</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAI5GRC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8f2f683d16083fa02af4c09d63da01e4" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="air compressor for powder coating gun" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eZ3-e7r8fFM/V74WsiT0tJI/AAAAAAAACvU/VBMb-9_n2xohAtgN9fFBXsDTHVKDusmdgCEw/s200/51fz1hiUamL._SL1000_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>Every powder coating gun (except for the Craftsman Powder Coating gun) relies on an air compressor as a source to propel the powder out of the gun and onto the part.&nbsp; Powder coating guns do not require a very big compressor at all.&nbsp; I have even heard of people using pancake compressors with their powder coating guns.&nbsp; Now, I wouldn't recommend going that small, but anything that is a step up from a pancake compressor should work. A 20 gallon air compressor like this <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAI5GRC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00CAI5GRC&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5LLPQO42TKPU653P" target="_blank">Porter Cable PXCFM220VW</a></b> would be plenty for powder coating, blowing off parts, and doing other small tasks around the job and it will plug into your regular wall outlet.&nbsp; It wont do any sandblasting but it is a nice mid-range compressor if you decide to skip or outsource your blasting. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Blow Gun:</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Mfg-AG1202-Cyclone-Extreme/dp/B00UNJMCUY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472075698&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cyclone+blow+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6549ab8e15ca55141e75858e316ee062" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Mfg-AG1202-Cyclone-Extreme/dp/B00UNJMCUY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472075698&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cyclone+blow+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6549ab8e15ca55141e75858e316ee062" border="0" height="186" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnqiR-mNMtc/V74YGCOaurI/AAAAAAAACvw/aP0XZd-bc4M-TpjO1pVQMPUGQtV7j_TEwCLcB/s200/41p3qUaPMEL.jpg" width="200" /></a>You will use the a blow gun a lot during the powder coating process.&nbsp; They are good for drying wet parts, cleaning your powder coating gun, and blowing off media after sandblasting.&nbsp; They are also great for lazily dusting the garage.&nbsp; There are some <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Mfg-AG1202-Cyclone-Extreme/dp/B00UNJMCUY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472075698&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=cyclone+blow+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6549ab8e15ca55141e75858e316ee062" target="_blank">blow guns</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001F7GABK" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> </b>that use a Venturi nozzle to blow out more air than the standard blow guns.&nbsp; Because these are not a continuous use tool when powder coating, meaning your not going to be blowing something off for 20 minutes, almost any compressor will do.&nbsp; However, a little pancake compressor will run until you let go of the trigger.&nbsp; </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Sandblaster:</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;">A <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002LGM5ZO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=Q4KZ3UXF3XECJG43" target="_blank">sandblaster</a></b> uses A LOT of air.&nbsp; If you plan to do your own blasting, you will want a larger compressor.&nbsp; The only way you would get by with a smaller one(and by smaller, I mean a 30 gallon) is if you only plan to blast very small parts and not a lot at one time.&nbsp; I feel the bare minimum for blasting is my own compressor which is a 60 gallon, 11cfm@90psi, 4.4HP compressor. It will keep up with my siphon sandblaster and is actually able to shut off while I am still blasting, but I like to give it breaks because once it does kick on and start to run, it takes about 5 minutes to shut off.&nbsp; Then it will start running again in another 5 minutes.&nbsp; The reason I give it breaks, is because it was not meant to run that much.&nbsp; Most of the time I sandblast small to medium sized parts like engine brackets so I don't mind the breaks that much.&nbsp; When I occasionally blast wheels, I wish I had a larger compressor.&nbsp; The compressor will have to cycle on and off about 10 times for each wheel, which equates to a lot of breaks.&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=40726824da0cc1ae7c0feb3aebdca3eb" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting cabinet with light and dust collection" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qaHclz-ewmI/V74YlFM_XPI/AAAAAAAACv4/vD70QbfMsK08Qk3xUD_zyO_7FXgzqcNowCLcB/s200/71nAZfY6dwL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="170" /></a>Another advantage of a large compressor when sandblasting, is the ability to use a larger sandblasting nozzle.&nbsp; The CFM a sandblaster uses largely depends on what size nozzle you are using.&nbsp; I use 1/4" nozzles.&nbsp; A small nozzle like that blasts a very small area at a a time but it uses less than air than a larger nozzle.&nbsp; With a bigger compressor, you can step up your nozzle size and blast larger areas at a time which makes the whole sandblasting task go by much faster. Industrial sandblasters use a sandblaster that resembles a fire hose which they use to blasts ships and buildings, but they need monster-sized compressors to be able to supply enough air for them.&nbsp; </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So what this whole article comes down to is that you need a compressor big enough to sandblast the parts you plan on blasting.&nbsp; You may think you have the patience to wait for a 30 gallon compressor to catch up while you are sandblasting a set of wheels.&nbsp;&nbsp; You may have that patience for the first set of wheels, but your patience will quickly run out as you continue to sandblast more parts.&nbsp; Buy a big enough compressor from the start so your time spent in the garage isn't miserable.&nbsp; It is worth the money.&nbsp; A <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Powermate-Vx-PLA4708065-80-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0083FBDNM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E6SBM5M9Q4HYJ71NR50P&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=194068cd8caa597751ddce8a2bbbd352">80 gallon single stage air compressor</a></b> would allow you to get by but a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Quincy-QT-7-5-Lubricated-Reciprocating-Compressor/dp/B00BJ2F97M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q79DYRYFYA7JDWVK81WW&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b5ef4ea4fcea2a68ef45ebc1f9e754dc">2-stage 80 gallon compressor</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0054PKYUW" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> would be ideal. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Stay tuned for the next article, I will be discussing how to keep your compressed air DRY. </div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-41051542966194182302013-08-26T13:15:00.000-07:002016-10-03T00:38:36.405-07:00Where to Buy Powder<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k8vrtgQyDaU/Uhu4xKqVFcI/AAAAAAAABOk/qV9kK0CO_D0/s1600/Powder+coating+Powders.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating powder" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k8vrtgQyDaU/Uhu4xKqVFcI/AAAAAAAABOk/qV9kK0CO_D0/s320/Powder+coating+Powders.jpg" title="powder coating powder" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"> There are several companies that manufacture powder coating powders. Dupont, PPG, NIC, Tiger Drylac, Sherwin Williams, &amp; 3M are some popular manufactures.&nbsp; However, large companies like these prefer to sell large quantities of powder.&nbsp; It is not practical for them to mess around with selling 1lb here and 1lb there. Some of their "sample sizes" are 50lb boxes.&nbsp; As a small, custom powder coater, you will probably not want 50lbs of any one color so ordering directly from these companies isn't practical.&nbsp; Luckily there are companies out there that buy these powders in the large quantities and re-sell them in much smaller quantities.&nbsp; This allows you to buy powders in 1lb quantities, and in some cases, even 1/2lb quantities.&nbsp; The average price for a pound of powder is about $12 and 1 pound can go a long way.&nbsp;</span><br /><b></b><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Powder Sellers that I Trust</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>I order all all of my powder from the 3 companies listed below.&nbsp; This does not mean that there are not other good companies to order powder from, its just that these 3 have served all my needs so far and I have had no reason to order from another company.&nbsp; If you have a personal good experience with another company, feel free to tell me about them, what you like about them and I can add it to the list. Just use the comment section at the bottom of the page.&nbsp; Now, onto my favorite 3 companies:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating supplies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="powder coating supplies" /></a></div><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Powder365</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>Powder365 is an excellent company to order powder from.&nbsp; I have never had an issue with a powder from them.&nbsp; Their customer service is unmatched, if you ever have an issue, they will take care of you.&nbsp; They have a pretty good selection of powders and their prices are good as well. Their site is well-organized and very easy to use.&nbsp; The powder comes double-bagged with re-usable zip-ties on each (I like this little touch, I re-use their zip ties all around my garage).&nbsp; My orders never take longer than 4 days to arrive.&nbsp; They have a very active Powder Coating forum on their site as well.&nbsp; <br /><a href="http://www.powder365.com/store/" target="_blank">Powder365.com</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">All Powder Paints</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>All powder paints is also a great place to order powder.&nbsp; Again, I have never had a problem with any of their powders.&nbsp; All Powder Paints seems to have a bigger selection of powders than Powder365 and they also have some specialty colors and unique powders that I have never seen on any other site.&nbsp; My favorite part about their site is they have reviews on their powders.&nbsp; This is a great way to pick one powder over another when all of the powders have the same basic description. Their website is very organized, probably my favorite to use.&nbsp; Prices are about the same as Powder365.&nbsp; Their powders come double-bagged, each bag being knotted(they could use some of those re-usable zip ties).&nbsp; Shipping is super fast for me but I only live a couple hours away from their warehouse in St. Petersburg, Fl.<br /><a href="http://www.allpowderpaints.com/">AllPowderPaints.com </a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Prismatic Powders</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>You know how I said that the big powder manufactures don't want to deal with selling small quantities of powders.&nbsp; Well NIC is an exception. They actually do sell small quantities through their own company called Prismatic Powders. Prismatic Powders offers the biggest selection of powders of any site I have ever seen: 6500+ colors. Their prices are also several dollars lower than the above 2 sites.&nbsp; They offer free color swatches which is great.&nbsp; How a powder looks on your monitor is usually different than how it looks in person.&nbsp; Their website is a little more difficult to use, but with the amount of powders they sell, is understandable.&nbsp; To me, the issue with Prismatic is that they have so many colors, it is hard to pick between them.&nbsp; When a site has 15 gloss blacks, all having the same description, it makes choosing difficult.&nbsp; They do have a huge photo gallery that shows their more popular colors.&nbsp; Their shipping times have slowed down drastically recently.&nbsp; They used to be very fast, but not it may be 2 weeks before your powder shows up. &nbsp;&nbsp; <br /><a href="http://www.prismaticpowders.com/" target="_blank">PrismaticPowders.com</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">Ordering Powder Outside of the United States?</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3>It has been brought to my attention that if you order powder from a US company outside of the US, then you will need them to include a MSDS sheet along with the powder for it to pass through customs.&nbsp; Make sure to request a MSDS sheet if ordering from a US company.<br /><br /><br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-45601423697965386252013-08-22T02:40:00.000-07:002016-08-24T19:17:22.285-07:00Masking Part II: Perfect Masking Lines<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><h2><span style="font-size: x-large;">Learn how to get perfect masking lines, also several different masking materials explained.</span></h2><br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In the last <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">masking article</a></b>, I covered the very basic masking supplies needed for powder coating and also the reasons you would need to mask. In this article, I will show you some not so common ways to mask off parts when powder coating and also show you how to get nice, clean looking masking lines. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vDExxvGZ0-g/VI_x9bdaumI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/8mj_MkDcLXI/s1600/Picture%2B126426997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vDExxvGZ0-g/VI_x9bdaumI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/8mj_MkDcLXI/s320/Picture%2B126426997.jpg" title="powder coat masking" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: large;">One extra step for nice, crisp, clean masking lines:</span></h3><br />When you mask off a part with high-temperature tape, the tape can stay on the part the entire time the part is cured in the oven.&nbsp; However, you will find that after the part is done and you try to remove the tape, that the powder around the edge of the tape can flake off leaving a very jagged, messy line.&nbsp; This jagged line doesn't look good or professional at all. &nbsp; I will explain my method to avoid these messy masking lines.&nbsp; <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div>First I mask and powder coat my part as usual and put it in the oven.&nbsp; When the part is around 200 degrees, the powder should start to melt, changing from a dry powder look, to a wet speckle look.&nbsp; When the powder just reaches this wet speckle stage, I pull the part out of the oven and hang it back on my rack.&nbsp; Make sure not to touch the part here, it is basically like touching wet paint, and it is also hot enough to burn you. I use a pair of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464428712&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=needle+nose+vise+grips&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=eb05a9cc3fb800ebc29b02c228185bb0"><b>needle nose vice grip pliers</b></a> to grab the hook that is holding the part, never the part itself.&nbsp; Once the part is hanging on the rack, I continue to hold the part by the hook using the pliers.&nbsp; This gives it some stability so it is not swinging around everywhere.&nbsp; I then very carefully pull off the tape using a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/STAINLESS-SCALPEL-STERILE-DDP-QUALITY/dp/B00OTKSUN6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464428874&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=scalpel&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d82fc18fac03de2389720630e13d2eef">scalpel</a></b> and tweezers, making sure not to touch any of the powder coated piece. Just gently stick a scalpel, razor blade, or exact-o knife underneath the edge of the tape to lift it up a little bit.&nbsp; Then you can use tweezers or your fingers to remove it from the part completely.&nbsp; For masked off holes, you can stab the scalpel through the middle of the tape, the hole then leaves something to grab onto with the tweezers.&nbsp; I also remove any silicone plugs at this time using needle-nosed pliers.<br />&nbsp; <br /><br /><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjDZVT64io/V0ltrH9QJ0I/AAAAAAAACgg/4JnCFPN3gMcY8zX5nnDIxeG5a78M5v6kQCLcB/s1600/Untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking " border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjDZVT64io/V0ltrH9QJ0I/AAAAAAAACgg/4JnCFPN3gMcY8zX5nnDIxeG5a78M5v6kQCLcB/s320/Untitled.png" title="" width="204" /></a>You will need to work fast but carefully to do this.&nbsp; You don't want the part to cool down to much.&nbsp; If the part is too cool, the powder can flake off.&nbsp; If the part is too hot, the powder will be stringy and stick to the tape as you pull it.&nbsp; The stringy powder can land on previously masked area, ruining the clean line.&nbsp; Right around 180-200 degrees F is the sweet spot for pulling the tape.&nbsp; Keep your infrared thermometer handy and check the temperature as you unmask your part. On large, extensively masked parts, the part can cool too much leaving you with flaky lines as you unmask.&nbsp; If you find the part has cooled too much, you can re-heat the part using a heat gun or a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008ZA09/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00008ZA09&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">torch</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00008ZA09" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> at a distance.&nbsp; Once you have heated the area back up to 200 degrees, you can start removing the tape again.&nbsp; Alternatively, you can transfer the part back into the oven again to re-heat it if you do not have a heat gun or torch.&nbsp; I personally have a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TI26/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00004TI26&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">Milwaukee heat gun</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00004TI26" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> sitting close by when unmasking.&nbsp; It has 150-1000 degree F temperature range.&nbsp; Once a part cools down too much below 160, I heat up the area with the heat gun in one hand, and my infrared temp gun in the other hand.<br /><br /><br />After all of your masking is removed from the part, you then put it back in the oven and continue as normal: set the temperature as specified by your powder's instructions, wait until the part reaches that temperature, and then start your timer.&nbsp; Once the part is done and comes out of the oven, you will see beautiful, crisp, clean masking lines. &nbsp; This method also opens the door to many different types of masking materials that cannot withstand 400 degrees like the high-temp powder coating tape can.<br /><h3><br /></h3><h3><br /></h3><h3><br /></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Alternatives to High-Temp Powder Coating Tape</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: large;">3M Blue &amp; Green Painters Tape</span></h3><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MEBBWG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=40c4ff3aba10ff12391d33e26281dcd3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating masking tape 3m" border="0" height="136" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZqeXp4g-B0/V75VBJbob8I/AAAAAAAACwM/HExF0kTaYVcyNAz58qgqas8PLdK9AaJnACLcB/s200/71WpFrWwS0L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a> 3M Painters tape is much easier to work with than the high-temperature powder coating tape as it is able to conform around bends.&nbsp; The 3M painters tapes I have used and had success with is the standard blue painters tape and the green Automotive Performance Masking Tape. The 1" wide rolls seem to be the most versatile.&nbsp; The <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009P684S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0009P684S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">blue painters tape</a></b> can withstand about 200 degrees in the oven, can conform around mild bends, and isn't as sticky as the green tape.&nbsp; When you are masking a part with gloves on, tape that is not so sticky is actually a blessing.<br /><br />The <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/3M-03433-Automotive-Performance-Masking/dp/B004IJVYA4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464428609&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=3m+automotive+performance+tape&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=61c58b56e62001219634e4e1660a1316">green painters tape</a></b> comes off easy even after reaching 250 degrees, can conform around more complex bends than the blue, and has a much stronger adhesive.&nbsp; The green tape is actually somewhat stretchable so it is very good for complex parts.&nbsp; The only issue with it is when you are masking a part wearing gloves.&nbsp; The green tape likes to stick to the gloves more so than the part so there is a little bit of a battle there. This type of tape cuts easily with scissors, a razor blade, or a scalpel.&nbsp; However, when using a scalpel, it does not leave as crisp of a line as the high-temp tape. &nbsp; <span style="color: red;">&nbsp;</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUngxiLqodo/V0ll4ZakRDI/AAAAAAAACfk/vhwe-QXo1aYL_E3UagW_n8lYtqqoq-a4wCLcB/s1600/DSC_0068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coated cam gears masking 3m tape" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUngxiLqodo/V0ll4ZakRDI/AAAAAAAACfk/vhwe-QXo1aYL_E3UagW_n8lYtqqoq-a4wCLcB/s640/DSC_0068.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: red;"><b>When using either of&nbsp; these tapes, it is very important not to let it get too hot in the oven.</b>&nbsp;</span> If you forget about it and leave it on the part for a full cure(~400 for 10 minutes), it will no longer be easy to remove.&nbsp; If you have ever tried removing the regular beige colored masking tape after it has been stuck to something for a couple of years, you will have a pretty good idea of what this painters tape is like if you leave it in the oven too long.&nbsp; The adhesive burns and the tape turns hard.&nbsp; It will peel off the part in pieces leaving a huge mess.&nbsp; Just remember not to use this tape for a full cure.&nbsp; If you use this tape, make sure to follow the instructions above. <br /><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Bottom of article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="6112127938" style="display: inline-block; height: 90px; width: 728px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /><h3><span style="font-size: large;">Aluminum Foil</span></h3><br />Aluminum foil is a great way to mask large areas that would otherwise take many rows of tape.&nbsp; Aluminum foil is fine in the oven at any temperature involved in powder coating.&nbsp; Aluminum foil obviously has no adhesive properties so it will need to be supplemented with tape.&nbsp; Apply a piece of tape where you want your masking line to be.&nbsp; Lay out your aluminum foil to cover the area you want to mask off, but you want the edge of the aluminum foil to&nbsp; hang over your piece of tape a little.&nbsp; Then apply another piece of tape on top of your original tape, sandwiching the aluminum foil in-between. Aluminum foil is a great time-saver and much cheaper than tape for the amount of area it covers.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: large;">Glad Press' n Seal</span></h3><br /><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009P684S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0009P684S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">Glad Press'n sea</a>l</b> is a great, although unusual, way to mask large areas when powder coating.&nbsp; For those of you that have never used it, it is basically a saran wrap that can actually stick to other things other than itself.&nbsp; You can see one application here: <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9l39h0-QpQ/V0lrze3JMtI/AAAAAAAACgE/hbH9Zzezp9gsOxi3Q-BadfmXPRjxA3PoACLcB/s1600/IMAG0740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking glad press n seal oil pan large areas" border="0" height="356" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9l39h0-QpQ/V0lrze3JMtI/AAAAAAAACgE/hbH9Zzezp9gsOxi3Q-BadfmXPRjxA3PoACLcB/s640/IMAG0740.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />I was able to mask off the interior of this oil pan in less than a minute using the Glad Press'n Seal<img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0009P684S" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />.&nbsp; To use it in this type of application, just follow these steps:<br /><ul><li>Lay the Press'n Seal piece on your bench with the sticky side facing up.&nbsp; </li><li>Lay the part to be masked upside down on top of it and press it down.</li><li>Turn part over and really press down the Press'n Seal to make sure it is stuck to the part.</li><li>Turn part upside down again.</li><li>Take a scalpel or razor blade and trim the excess off around the outside edge of the part.</li></ul><br />It is great for parts that have large flat areas like this oil pan, it also works well on valve covers, heads, engine blocks, etc. The downside is that it the Glad Press'n Seal cannot handle any oven temperatures without shriveling up.&nbsp; It must be removed before the part enters the oven.&nbsp; I do this by very carefully peeling up one area with a scalpel and slowly pulling it up.&nbsp; Make sure that no powder fell off of the Press'n Seal onto the area that was masked, then put the part in the oven and cure as usual. <br /><br /><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: large;">Powder Removal: Wiping with a damp finger</span></h3><br /><div style="text-align: right;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcIISCo_hUc/V0lqftcNrRI/AAAAAAAACf4/lsy-h44OP3kIxcfTI7sWV7QJC7Pz4gsVQCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252814%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating finger wipe masking calipers" border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcIISCo_hUc/V0lqftcNrRI/AAAAAAAACf4/lsy-h44OP3kIxcfTI7sWV7QJC7Pz4gsVQCLcB/s640/1%2B%252814%2529.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br />The last form of masking I will talk about in this article is not really masking at all.&nbsp; There are some situations where you will get better results by spraying the entire part with powder, even the area you wanted to mask, and then removing the powder from this area before you put the part in the oven.&nbsp; This is best done on raised areas, such as the raised letters on a intake manifold, valve cover or brake caliper.&nbsp;&nbsp; You can remove the powder using many different methods. Below I will explain one of the methods. <br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F4wYT9beUGY/V0lrWe8NNSI/AAAAAAAACgA/9weNaP3Q2XQsOGLWd0pIbF8tqLpA_jR3gCKgB/s1600/1%2B%252832%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating mitsubishi calipers finger wipe masking" border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F4wYT9beUGY/V0lrWe8NNSI/AAAAAAAACgA/9weNaP3Q2XQsOGLWd0pIbF8tqLpA_jR3gCKgB/s400/1%2B%252832%2529.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a>You can use a damp finger to actually wipe powder from a raised surface. Keeping your finger slightly wet helps the powder to stick to your finger and not just brush off onto another area of your part. I keep a cup of water and a rag at my side.&nbsp; I dip my finger in the water and wipe off the excess on the rag, just leaving my finger slightly damp.&nbsp; Then carefully I start to wipe off the powder.&nbsp; The trick to this method is to only wipe a very small section at a time so the powder doesn't build up. I wipe about 1/2" with my finger, before I clean my finger with the rag, re-dampen my finger, and repeat.&nbsp; When you wipe, do so to collect the powder on your finger and not brush it off onto your part.&nbsp;&nbsp; It takes some time, and you must be extremely careful to only wipe what you are meaning to wipe.&nbsp; One little bump into a good area of powder, means starting all over again. It is best for your part to be sitting on a solid surface if possible.<br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQF2Tl6W1Ng/UhXDXked5mI/AAAAAAAABNg/EwM6QG43vR0/s1600/powder+coated+starter+motor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat finger wiping masking" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQF2Tl6W1Ng/UhXDXked5mI/AAAAAAAABNg/EwM6QG43vR0/s400/powder+coated+starter+motor.JPG" title="powder coat wiping" width="315" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uncured powder wiped from mating surface using damp q-tips.</td></tr></tbody></table>Sometimes your fingers are a little too bulky or not the right shape to use.&nbsp; You can also use damp q-tips, towels, sponges, or whatever you can think of that can wipe off the powder successfully.&nbsp; This starter motor was done with lots and lots of damp q-tips. It was powder coated with bonded black chrome, which also needs a clear coat.&nbsp; This entire process had to be repeated for the clear coat. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHADZA9GQ5Y/UhXEzoSwlnI/AAAAAAAABNs/85otJ8proiU/s1600/starter+powder+coated+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat finger wipe masking" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHADZA9GQ5Y/UhXEzoSwlnI/AAAAAAAABNs/85otJ8proiU/s320/starter+powder+coated+2.JPG" title="powder coat finger wipe" width="320" /></a></div><span id="goog_1643693412"></span><span id="goog_1643693413"></span><br /><br />So now that you know a couple new ways to mask off your parts before powder coating, I am going to wrap up the article with one more piece of advice. <br /><br />When you mask off a part using high-temp tape, foil, etc., it is only good for one coat of powder.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you want to spray 3 coats of powder, you should mask the part 3 times.&nbsp; Trying to re-use the same masking for more than one coat always ends up looking terrible.&nbsp; When I was new to coating, it took me so long to mask things, I thought the idea of doing it all over again for another coat was ridiculous.&nbsp; I didn't unmask my part and just used the tape that was already on there for the 2nd coat.&nbsp; The edges came out terrible.&nbsp; The lines were flaky and jagged, the powder actually bulged up on the edges and I ended up having to completely redo the part.&nbsp; By trying to save time, I spent much longer in the end, so just take my advice and re-mask for every additional coat.<br /><br />Thanks for reading and if you enjoyed what you read or have any questions, feel free to leave a comment.&nbsp; Stay tuned for the next article.&nbsp; See more masking techniques in the previous <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking article</a></b>.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-8787976834457643542013-08-06T06:47:00.000-07:002017-03-18T02:22:33.268-07:00Masking <!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " cvnsbyc="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><h4>Masking is a tedious but required part of powder coating.&nbsp; There are some parts that you will come across that will need some areas masked off.&nbsp; I will explain several different methods and materials to help you do do that. This will be Masking Part I. Don't forget to check out <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.VYtSgVI73bk" target="_blank">Masking Part II</a> and the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/blog-page_24.html" target="_blank">Wall-Mounted High Temp Tape Dispenser</a>.</h4><h4>&nbsp;</h4>When powder coating,&nbsp; it is important to mask off certain areas of certain things.&nbsp; Powder coating is a thicker coating than most paints and if you don't mask certain areas, things might not go back together when your done.&nbsp; You can also use masking techniques to make designs, logos, and words on the things you are powder coating for a different look.&nbsp; Masking techniques and supplies are not all standardized, sometimes you have to get creative to mask off certain items.&nbsp; Again, this will be one of several articles on masking so I will cover the basics of masking here. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qv8pMIaXbvE/Uf3xZdBZQAI/AAAAAAAABH0/9vD5Tujtzvw/s1600/IMAG0930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat tape masking" border="0" height="356" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qv8pMIaXbvE/Uf3xZdBZQAI/AAAAAAAABH0/9vD5Tujtzvw/s640/IMAG0930.jpg" title="powder coat tape masking" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This alternator case is masked with Polyester Powder Coating Tape.&nbsp; This tape can withstand 400 degrees without degrading.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;<a name='more'></a></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Reasons for Masking</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</h3><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</h3><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Appearance:</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">&nbsp;</h4><div style="text-align: left;">Masking can give a powder coated item many different appearances.&nbsp; Lets use wheels as an example.&nbsp; It is popular to powder coat the lip of the wheel in one color, and the spokes of the wheel in a different color.&nbsp; How does masking come into play to get this 2-tone look? By coating the wheel in one color, masking off the areas you want to stay that color, and then coating the exposed areas in another color.&nbsp; You then have 2-tone wheels that wouldn't have been possible without masking them.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Tight Tolerances:</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">&nbsp;</h4><div style="text-align: left;">The alternator case above has a recessed hole in the middle. That hole was masked because, when assembled, a bearing fits into it.&nbsp; The bearing fits into the hole so tight, that had it not been masked, the bearing would no longer fit.&nbsp;&nbsp; This is something you need consider before powder coating.&nbsp; When powder coating automotive parts especially, there are many assemblies that fit with very tight tolerances. &nbsp; You can see another example with this brake caliper down below.&nbsp; The 2 large holes were masked off from the powder coat so the caliper pistons would still be able to fit inside.</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNvmwuiuJkw/Uf33bc8hYGI/AAAAAAAABIE/YbOt6YYx2pY/s1600/Picture+1097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat brake caliper masking" border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNvmwuiuJkw/Uf33bc8hYGI/AAAAAAAABIE/YbOt6YYx2pY/s640/Picture+1097.jpg" title="powder coat brake caliper masking" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caliper Piston bores free of powder coating to allow proper piston function.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Another tight tolerance area are bolt holes.&nbsp; When a bolt hole is powder coated, it can cause a lot of difficulty with threading the bolt in.&nbsp; If the bolt will not thread into the powder coated hole, the hole must be cleaned of powder coat with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6UNHE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000P6UNHE&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">thread chaser</a></b> or tap.&nbsp; A thread chaser cleans and straightens the threads but does not cut into the metal like a tap does. I recommend a thread chaser but they are not near as common as taps and impossible to find locally.&nbsp; Thread chasers are are a good tool to have in the garage for many things. </div><span id="goog_522163411"></span><span id="goog_522163412"></span><br /><span id="goog_522163411"></span><span id="goog_522163412"></span><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Electrical Connections (Grounds):</span></h4><h4>&nbsp;</h4>This is often overlooked when powder coating.&nbsp; There are some parts, such as starters and alternators, that receive their ground not from a wire, but from being bolted to the engine, which then, is connected to the battery via a ground or negative wire.&nbsp; In the case of an alternator, your engine serves as the wire to connect it to the battery.&nbsp; From the factory, the alternator, the alternator bracket, and the spot on the engine where the alternator bracket bolts to, will all have a bare metal surface to allow the electrical connection.&nbsp; Powder coating serves as an electrical insulator: it does not conduct electricity.&nbsp; Say you powder coat the alternator without masking off anything.&nbsp; The alternator will now be insulated from the alternator bracket and will no longer serve to charge the battery.&nbsp; This is the same with the starter, if it is powder coated entirely, the car will no longer start, because the connection is blocked.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ub-a3mtJiko/Uf_sYwDdp9I/AAAAAAAABIk/6C-W_xfh3Eo/s1600/IMAG09602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking grounds" border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ub-a3mtJiko/Uf_sYwDdp9I/AAAAAAAABIk/6C-W_xfh3Eo/s640/IMAG09602.JPG" title="powder coat masking grounds" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />The alternator pictured connects to a alternator bracket in 3 places, all 3 of those places were masked so they remain bare metal.&nbsp; The alternator bracket was also masked in those 3 locations.<br /><br />You must keep that in mind before power coating. Before you even remove a part, take note of how it mounts and take care to mask those mounts accordingly.&nbsp; Its not just the starters and alternators.&nbsp; Lots of sensors are grounded through their threaded bodies.&nbsp; Meaning when the sensor threads into a metal bracket, that is how it connects to the ground.&nbsp; If you are powder coating the bracket, make sure to mask the threads and the brackets mounts.</div><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Structural Mating Surfaces:&nbsp;&nbsp;</span></h4><h4>&nbsp;</h4>By structural mating surfaces, I mean, where 2 critical components meet and there should be metal to metal contact.&nbsp; This includes wheel hubs, brake caliper mounting points, suspension mounting points, etc.&nbsp; There is some debate on whether a layer of powder coat has an affect on anything but I look at it this way.&nbsp; Those areas are usually bare metal from the manufacturer.&nbsp; When you buy brand new wheels, the wheel hubs are left in bare metal from the manufacturer.&nbsp; I choose to follow the manufacturers choices here as they are the ones with the engineers.&nbsp; If two parts are mounted together using grade 8 or higher bolts, the specification is that where those 2 parts meet, must be bare metal.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDfzxrY9CU/UgDkh6lxkkI/AAAAAAAABJs/LEW2d-i7MJI/s1600/spindle+masked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat masking mating surfaces" border="0" height="395" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDfzxrY9CU/UgDkh6lxkkI/AAAAAAAABJs/LEW2d-i7MJI/s640/spindle+masked.JPG" title="powder coat mask mating surfaces" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mating surface of of this steering knuckle masked.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><h4></h4><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dln5aXFRvHE/UgDmecOIb3I/AAAAAAAABJ8/-7hLHvlC-dk/s1600/IMAG00422+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coat mask mating surfaces" border="0" height="355" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dln5aXFRvHE/UgDmecOIb3I/AAAAAAAABJ8/-7hLHvlC-dk/s640/IMAG00422+(3).jpg" title="powder coat mask mating surfaces" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mating surface left in bare metal where the wheel spindle mounts to the steering knuckle.</td></tr></tbody></table><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Gasket Surfaces:</span></h4><h4>&nbsp;</h4>Gasket surfaces should also be masked off before powder coating.&nbsp; Anything that uses a gasket to contain fluids fits in this category: valve covers, oil pans, water pumps, oil pumps, oil filter housings, etc.&nbsp; Not masking these surfaces increases the chances of leaks. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4zMvf1GVPDk/VYuD2CdLD_I/AAAAAAAAB70/XjY9lZslaOM/s1600/DSC_0014%2B%2528Large%2529.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating how to mask" border="0" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4zMvf1GVPDk/VYuD2CdLD_I/AAAAAAAAB70/XjY9lZslaOM/s400/DSC_0014%2B%2528Large%2529.PNG" title="powder coating how to mask" width="400" /></a></div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">COMMON MASKING SUPPLIES</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</h3><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</h3><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp; </h3><h4><span style="font-size: large;">High Temperature Tape:</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4></h4><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ea32e34da9eb16ee72cd6a906ac74ca2" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating tape assortment" border="0" height="160" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8cVfwCEan70/V75WvvvKBEI/AAAAAAAACwk/eXpT6ZiP33of1BXt4ArLz7gYdejWnmy-gCLcB/s200/71WOd1bYOxL._SL1500_2.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>High temperature polyester tape is is the most common masking solution for powder coating.&nbsp; It can withstand sustained temperatures above 400 degrees without turning into goo like normal tape would.&nbsp; <span style="color: red;">Do not use any type of normal household tape for a full length oven cure.&nbsp; It will melt into the powder and turn into a mess, usually resulting in stripping and redoing the part.&nbsp; <span style="color: black;">The high temp tape can be a little hard to work with as it is not flexible like masking tape is.&nbsp; But the tape is still a necessity for powder coating. </span></span>It does cut easily and it does leave clean lines.&nbsp; I personally use and recommend a roll of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFOE49O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00AFOE49O&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=363WIWWIN7GJYLLJ" target="_blank">1/2 width</a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBMOWW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00DVBMOWW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ULF27UOPX2D6CGCK" target="_blank">1" width tape</a>. With those 2 sizes, you can mask smaller areas and larger areas without spending a lot of time. However it is helpful to have different sizes for different situations.&nbsp; Check out the available tape sizes below. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>High-Temp Tape Sizes:</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBMOWW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00DVBMOWW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ULF27UOPX2D6CGCK" target="_blank"><br /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBMOWW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00DVBMOWW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ULF27UOPX2D6CGCK" target="_blank"><b></b></a><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00UCBIX1A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3X26TY3NBDEZR22L" target="_blank">1/4" Tape (kit)</a>&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UCBIX1A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00UCBIX1A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3X26TY3NBDEZR22L" target="_blank">3/8" Tape (kit)</a></b> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFOE49O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00AFOE49O&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=363WIWWIN7GJYLLJ" target="_blank">1/2" Tape</a></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00735EIM6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00735EIM6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=E7PKUYTOMP64CDT5" target="_blank">3/4" Tape </a></b> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472092501&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powder+coating+tape+1%22&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a90ecfedfc49b8f81971da09689b56f7" target="_blank">1" Tape</a></b> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUDSH0Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00VUDSH0Q&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=E3H7XIWSNIZ5QMR2" target="_blank">1.5" Tape </a></b> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JE0KPMK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00JE0KPMK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=Y23JNUFO5KHHPWO2" target="_blank">2" Tape</a></b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bd6h0rKw_d8/UgDjAcZxhNI/AAAAAAAABJc/EuTTevF6N7I/s1600/IMAG01682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat high-temp tape masking" border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bd6h0rKw_d8/UgDjAcZxhNI/AAAAAAAABJc/EuTTevF6N7I/s400/IMAG01682.jpg" title="powder coat high-temp tape masking" width="225" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823IJUA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=172825d4be13cac9fe1cf5f789e14ee6" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat masking dots" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bhFgjz_UFtw/V75Wv2li2TI/AAAAAAAACwo/yJVdVxen2SkGZ9Li9v8Geah8Lk9qguXzgCEw/s1600/q.jpg" title="powder coat masking dots" /></a>Another type of tape to be aware of are these <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823IJUA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00823IJUA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LLU74TRUZ67BPOOT" target="_blank">high-temp tape dots</a>.&nbsp; These are a life saver in some situations.&nbsp; Before finding them, I used to trace various sized sockets onto a piece of tape to give me the size I needed, and then cut it out with scissors.&nbsp;&nbsp; That's when I found out cutting out a perfect circle free-hand is near impossible.&nbsp; These dots come in various sizes but I have not been able to find an assortment pack at this point so I just order them on an as-needed basis.&nbsp; Just keep them in mind if you find yourself needing to mask perfect circles.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating supplies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="powder coating supplies" /></a></div><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Silicone Plugs and Caps:</span></h4><h4>&nbsp; </h4><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Powder-Coating-Masking-Tapered/dp/B018V1Q652/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472091669&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=powder+coating+plugs&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=cc48674cfda39845a73f5dd923f7c1eb" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating high temp silicone plugs threaded bolt holes" border="0" height="118" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jAD4kCQ5E0c/V75WvvzdmvI/AAAAAAAACwc/xaEer_2OJEE4It_nJfuP9DLc29iJ8q9NwCEw/s200/41czTi-6v%252BL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><b>Silicone plugs</b> are little cone shaped pieces of silicone that fit into various sized holes.&nbsp; They are perfect for masking off bolt holes.&nbsp; Because they are tapered like a cone, each one fits a few different sized holes.&nbsp; They are re-usable and do not degrade at all in the oven.&nbsp; The kit I started wity has 50 plugs of 5 different sizes, with those I have been able to plug nearly every bolt hole I have encountered.&nbsp; I have slowly acquired a lot more silicone plugs over time though.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If you are search of more specialized plugs, check out <a href="http://www.epsi.com/" target="_blank">Epsi.com</a>&nbsp; They have the largest assortment of masking supplies I have ever seen.&nbsp; They will send you a text-book sized catalog for free if you call and request it.&nbsp; A more complete kit is <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWLU6ZE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00HWLU6ZE&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ESKDRQOMPJZUB73W" target="_blank">this one</a></b>, it has 275 different plugs so it should cover just about size you will ever need.<br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ei61nGQlEM/UgEDC7D-A6I/AAAAAAAABKc/LEjgMIaxy_Y/s1600/IMAG0604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating masking holes silicone plugs" border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ei61nGQlEM/UgEDC7D-A6I/AAAAAAAABKc/LEjgMIaxy_Y/s640/IMAG0604.jpg" title="powder coating masking holes silicone plugs" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Silicone Plugs were used to mask this coil pack bracket.</b></td></tr></tbody></table>There are many different kinds of specialty plugs out there but a few are really helpful when powder coating common objects. The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Rubber-Powder-Coating-Masking/dp/B01M0FFP8Z/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ff0f4a29ee588582eae1c3d6b2a796b2">red plug</a> below specifically fits 30 oz stainless steel tumblers such as Yeti cups.&nbsp; The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Powder-Coating-Masking-Tapered/dp/B01M9870YS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d5db1029095f08f3d3ccee350d7ccd5c">blue plugs</a>&nbsp; are great for masking "most" brake caliper piston bores (make sure to measure as they come in lots of different sizes).&nbsp;&nbsp; These are just a couple of examples.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Rubber-Powder-Coating-Masking/dp/B01M0FFP8Z/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ff0f4a29ee588582eae1c3d6b2a796b2"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Rubber-Powder-Coating-Masking/dp/B01M0FFP8Z/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ff0f4a29ee588582eae1c3d6b2a796b2" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ4foajmoH8/WMz7HAckf3I/AAAAAAAADBo/NH_D7vJTgaotcqXVgzkVZil-t6SBoQE2QCLcB/s320/yeti%2Bcup%2Bmasking%2Bplug.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Powder-Coating-Masking-Tapered/dp/B01M9870YS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d5db1029095f08f3d3ccee350d7ccd5c"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Powder-Coating-Masking-Tapered/dp/B01M9870YS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489828485&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=powder+coat+silicone+plug+cup&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d5db1029095f08f3d3ccee350d7ccd5c" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XGFabczT6PE/WMz76kpaoqI/AAAAAAAADBw/CSqvVj13mKEntJzP_BcRilQ37MZFVWQUACLcB/s320/brake%2Bcaliper%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Bmasking.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><b>Caps</b> are basically the opposite of the plug, they are silicone like the plugs, however they are shaped to go over studs.&nbsp; I do not use them as often, but if you know that the parts you will be coating do have attached studs, you can see them <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M589P42/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00M589P42&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=KWGWWS2UUWARTABA" target="_blank">here</a></b>.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M589P42/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=395e38220be285a2e8f55c9f78deb421" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating silicone stud caps" border="0" height="168" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSrXUw4x_Sw/V75WvgF125I/AAAAAAAACwY/IPAOXxOevzYmRripHsPh08J5rotqfWYrwCEw/s200/61EIOY%252BtSYL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;">&nbsp;</span></span></h4><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;">&nbsp;</span></span></h4><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;">Helpful Tip:</span></span></h4><h4><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white;">&nbsp;</span></span></h4>The only time I plug bolt holes when powder coating anymore is when the bolt serves as a ground connection between 2 parts, or if its a structural bolt that gets torqued to a specified value.&nbsp; I do not mask off other bolt holes or studs anymore.&nbsp; The reason I do that is to allow a thin layer of powder coating in the bolt holes to help protect the threads from corrosion.&nbsp; Any bare metal point on a powder coated piece, can start to rust and I don't like the idea of the rust creeping from the bare metal areas to underneath the powder coated surface.&nbsp; I have not experienced this yet, but I like to take the extra precaution.&nbsp; I have found that most bolts thread in with no problem even with a thin layer of powder in the bolt holes.&nbsp; I have found the same to be true for studs.&nbsp; &nbsp; If I ever have issues threading a bolt in, I just run a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Lang-972-Fractional-Metric-Restorer/dp/B000P6UNHE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460094695&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=thread+chaser&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6ddc84608c8c6addb7b36eb45e060052"><b>thread chaser</b></a> through the hole, like I mentioned above.&nbsp; This cleans out the holes enough for the bolt to go in, but still leaves the threads protected.&nbsp; Just make to sure to mask off any important structural bolts or threaded holes.&nbsp; As a general rule, I mask off any bolts and threads that are engine, suspension, or brake related. <br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-DkXNu-gTY/UgDptR0hzSI/AAAAAAAABKM/8cmH_N3nC4E/s1600/IMG_20130520_0027012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating threads" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-DkXNu-gTY/UgDptR0hzSI/AAAAAAAABKM/8cmH_N3nC4E/s320/IMG_20130520_0027012.JPG" title="powder coating threads" width="239" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nut has no problem tightening onto these powder coated studs, and they are protected from rust.</td></tr></tbody></table><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Wear Clean Gloves While Masking!</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XXO60M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fd1305f8157e0da21627a721d85a5e18" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating nitrile gloves to handle clean parts" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TovolsSEnP4/V75Wvk_iu1I/AAAAAAAACwg/pCffxPhPIGknzLhEZ3l2ExJvZ9Vve8_VgCEw/s200/61SBwV4uRQL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="150" /></a>Another essential tool for masking is tight fitting <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XXO60M/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B002XXO60M&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">disposable gloves</a></b>.&nbsp; When you are masking your part before powder coating, that means that it should be clean and sand blasted already.&nbsp; After sand blasting, you do not handle the part with bare hands. From the sand blasting cabinet until the part is completed and coming out of the oven, I do not touch the part with my bare hands.&nbsp; Your hands, even when clean, contain oils and salts that can cause issues with the powder coated finish.&nbsp; This is true for paint too. Also, any point where you touch freshly blasted bare metal with your hands, is a spot for rust to start.&nbsp; You can do a little experiment with this to see what I mean.&nbsp; Take a piece of metal and completely degrease it, then blast it clean with a sand blaster (or use a wire brush if you don't have a sandblaster yet).&nbsp; Now that you have the completely clean bare metal part, take your finger and just press it down in one spot.&nbsp; Then just walk away and come back the next day.&nbsp; Unless you live in a very dry climate, you will come back to your exact fingerprint etched in the metal, in the form of rust.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div>&nbsp;This is why it is very important to never touch your cleaned and blasted part with bare hands.&nbsp; It is also important to only use clean gloves.&nbsp; I keep 2 boxes of gloves out in the garage, one box is unused, brand new gloves.&nbsp; After I wear them to handle parts during powder coat preparation, I transfer them to the 2nd box.&nbsp; I wear the gloves from the 2nd box when doing anything else in the garage, like working on the car. There's no reason to throw them away and waste them just because they are no longer fit for powder coating.&nbsp; Like I said, you will want nice, tight fitting gloves.&nbsp; Masking is difficult already, you don't want loose gloves sticking to the tape you are trying to use.&nbsp; I have covered the most basic powder coat masking materials here, there are many more methods and ways to mask, I will explain some more in the next masking post. Just keep this in mind in the meantime.&nbsp; When powder coating, the masking does not need to stay on the part the entire time in the oven.&nbsp; The part doesn't even need to remain masked when the part enters the oven.&nbsp;&nbsp; That leads to being able to use a lot more materials to mask your parts. If you want to learn more about masking and&nbsp; how to get crisp masking lines, go to <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html" target="_blank">Masking: Part II</a></b>.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " cvnsbyc="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --> <script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script> Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-54716654089710467182013-08-02T00:44:00.000-07:002016-10-02T22:34:35.967-07:00Cleaning and Degreasing before Powder Coating<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lYcxv3qd3w/VYuna0qa6dI/AAAAAAAAB8I/MEbyuHlAMw8/s1600/Picture179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts powder coating" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lYcxv3qd3w/VYuna0qa6dI/AAAAAAAAB8I/MEbyuHlAMw8/s320/Picture179.jpg" title="cleaning parts powder coating" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Lets talk about the first step of the powder coating process. The very first thing to do is thoroughly clean and degrease your item. Even if it is brand new, it should be cleaned.After cleaning your part, check out this article for the following steps: "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuhslI72KV" target="_blank"><b>How to Prep for Powder Coating</b></a>". The first thing you need to do is figure out what its made out of. Steel, aluminum, etc. Some metals like aluminum are very sensitive to certain cleaners and it can cause can corrosion and damage on a microscopic level. I will explain the steps I use to clean below. </span><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Middle of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="3158661538" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 1. Pressure Wash</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />My very first step for any part that I am powder coating is to pressure wash the part. The pressure washer removes a lot of the loose debris like dirt and grease chunks with ease.&nbsp; Pressuring washing can replace a lot of manual scrubbing and the part is usually clean the touch after. My pressure washer is not anything fancy, but it works great and has great pressure for a smaller unit. It is a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z8E52Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002Z8E52Y&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5UR6GBTZEHWFTT5G" target="_blank">1900 psi electric model</a></b>. I prefer the electric pressure washers because of how frequently I use it. If it was a gas powered pressure washer, I would have to start it up each time. If you are a powder coating small parts occasionally, an electric pressure washer is fine. Having a pressure washer is also extremely useful in every day life. It makes short work of cleaning anything that can handle the pressure.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z8E52Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=eae7ee2bad865f1766f3831913f242c8" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best electric pressure washer" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kZcR1GpUaS0/V75bCoi_7MI/AAAAAAAACw0/tGhOFjLqMPY5WFkPBTkoSU6vzW0On1d4QCLcB/s200/611yGqKD8JL._SL1444_.jpg" title="Best electric pressure washer" width="134" /></a></div><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MXKUCY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=c9152e3b28a58e85b1c9fdd15129150b" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts before powder coating with pressure washer" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_sXk9ZpCXwc/V75bC8_i40I/AAAAAAAACxI/h98njhmBBJIIa314VyNQsF5XMPEPYZK6QCEw/s200/81XFumuCkyL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="193" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />As long as the part doesn't have any very delicate areas or is thin enough to bend, I set the pressure washer on the "pencil" setting. This focuses all the pressure into point and is very strong. I have actually managed to cut my skin with the water using this setting, so be careful. I just run this stream over the entire part until I no longer see the dirt coming off. I wear safety goggles while doing this because it splashes everywhere when hitting something irregularly shaped like a car part. If you really want to make short work of cleaning with the pressure washer, look at the gas-powered options. They are capable of a much higher pressures and can get your parts cleaner. Just be careful not to damage anything. This <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MXKUCY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004MXKUCY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=YOMVPQKLK743IT4Q" target="_blank">gas pressure washer</a></b> puts out 2.5 gallons of water per minute. That's nearly double the electric pressure washer.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 2. Soak with Cleaner </span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to Clean Aluminum Safely</b></span><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ebadb4031724f91407e268c903716da5" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Cast aluminum cleaner" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lpg1YshuY1E/V75bC3goAMI/AAAAAAAACxE/rN1PxeEFv2Qt1OBr8dkuBd232l04pKYIACEw/s200/71KmxPT6NAL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="101" /></a>After the loose dirt and crud is off, I spray the part down with an aluminum safe cleaner. I am very selective about what I use to clean aluminum. A lot of normal household cleaners can corrode aluminum. After a lot of research on the right cleaner for aluminum, I decided on <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B001VXU7OE&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">Simple Green Extreme: Aircraft and Precision Cleaner</a></b>. It states all over the bottle that it was formulated specifically for aluminum and precision tools. I checked the MSDS and it is, in fact, not just relabeled simple green. After testing it out, I am very happy with it. Its not too expensive, but online is the only place I could find it. It cleans great. I also tested it by spraying on some scrap cast aluminum pieces I had, and just letting it sit for a couple of days. When I came back to the part and wiped off the cleaner, there was no signs of corrosion at all.<br /><br />I used the simple green cleaner on this head. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good before picture, but in the picture, you can see the area I cleaned, vs the area I didn't clean yet. The 2nd picture shows it almost completely clean.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQAEUZS8W1k/Ufs9fZDL5SI/AAAAAAAABFc/5WaWFHj7K2M/s1600/simplegreen%2Bextreme.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="How to clean cast aluminum" border="0" height="281" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQAEUZS8W1k/Ufs9fZDL5SI/AAAAAAAABFc/5WaWFHj7K2M/s640/simplegreen%2Bextreme.JPG" title="How to clean cast aluminum" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cleaning cast aluminum with Simple Green Extreme</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AI8QEBM5qLg/Ufs9fdTdZOI/AAAAAAAABFg/Bcp3MyILZqQ/s1600/simple%2Bgreen%2Bextreme%2Bafter.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="How to clean cast aluminum" border="0" height="324" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AI8QEBM5qLg/Ufs9fdTdZOI/AAAAAAAABFg/Bcp3MyILZqQ/s640/simple%2Bgreen%2Bextreme%2Bafter.JPG" title="How to clean cast aluminum" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head cleaned with Simple Green Extreme</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>How to Clean Steel &amp; Iron</b></span><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCM63K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=788a62fba7d9c7f86e5f6e92f8c4efd5" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="car parts cleaner Superclean" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r5JRxKhXUyw/V75bCgm6ZAI/AAAAAAAACxA/tbtFPYqO4XojgmZCMMUcJY0S_CFAQjPFwCEw/s200/71HijsUDnfL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="175" /></a></div>Cleaning ferrous metals such as iron or steel is a little more forgiving than cleaning aluminum. But there are some things to watch out for. You can use the Simple Green Extreme mentioned above with no problems. However, since steel can be cleaned with more easy to find and cheaper cleaners, I save the Simple Green Extreme for aluminum. For cleaning steel, I use a cleaner called <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCM63K/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000CCM63K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">Super Clean</a></b>, formerly Castrol Super Clean which is amazing. Purple Power works okay too, just not quite as strong. I do not dilute the cleaner when using it on greasy iron or steel parts. <br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Middle of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="3158661538" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><br />I did mention there are things that you have to watch out for with steel. What you need to watch out for is using any acid based cleaners on hardened steels. Most acidic household cleaners use weaker acids so it is not as big of an issue, but the chemical rust removers and things like that contain phosphoric acid or muriatic acid which can can cause something called Hydrogen Embitterment in hardened steel and even cast iron parts. Without getting to into it, basically hydrogen atoms can be absorbed into the steel, changing the internal structure which can lead the hardened steel part to break. This doesn't come up too much in the powder coating process but its something that's good to know. If I can help it, I don't use acid based cleaners on steel parts.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 3. Scrub</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br />After spraying down the aluminum part with Simple Green Extreme or the iron/steel part with Super Clean, I let it soak for about 5 minutes, I spray a little more cleaner on the part and scrub it down with <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYDS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0009OMYDS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">various nylon brushes</a></b>. <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000002NUS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000002NUS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">gun cleaning brushes</a></b> are great for getting into bolt holes. A <b>parts washer</b> is a great place to do this task. Its the most convenient place to clean anything, it contains the mess, and constantly sprays cleaner out of the little nozzle. They come <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus%C2%AE-Gallon-Electric-Solvent-Cleaner/dp/B01CKUNYJQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472092812&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=parts+washer&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e747fb9c9eddfeb012fd2188a65ca42f" target="_blank">complete with a stand</a></b> or you can get a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026T75BA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0026T75BA&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=T2KUYNWUZBL6MISX" target="_blank">bench-top model</a></b> to save some space.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Goplus%C2%AE-Gallon-Electric-Solvent-Cleaner/dp/B01CKUNYJQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472092812&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=parts+washer&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=cbe9098fd6f25939048e9cb82fadd2f3" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts with parts wahser before powder coating" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_Lvc2TVnKg/V75bCrEYLlI/AAAAAAAACxQ/qZaqjVVKkBsqQgqPsRFI34PfZrJl0L8JwCEw/s200/61OLancbbGL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026T75BA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=35c8a418ed7c79edc5bd91177fdadff7" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning parts with parts wahser before powder coating" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9fk8pAtKzpQ/V75bCjlQLuI/AAAAAAAACxQ/qE74e1-95UAvsnhzsNVetl_Z7Zr12v27gCEw/s200/418iJXbUEeL.jpg" title="" width="158" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Step 4. Rinse &amp; Repeat</b></span></div><br /><br />After scrubbing the part thoroughly. I rinse it off with the pressure washer. I then repeat the scrubbing process and give it a very thorough final rinse with the pressure washer. I bring the part for a final rinse in hot water and then blow the part off with air to dry it.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Time Saver:</i> Ultrasonic Cleaner</span></b><br /><br /><br />Another method I use for smaller parts, is an<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Tek-Motion-Professional-Ultrasonic-Stainless/dp/B01FDIFAG2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472093226&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&amp;psc=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5651e09dc787a073ae374836a0989f2f" target="_blank"> <b>ultrasonic cleaner</b></a>. I say smaller parts because the larger ultrasonic cleaners can be very expensive. They are coming down in price so I am looking into a bigger one. If the part fits in my ultrasonic cleaner, I will use it. Its a great way to outsource some labor. I use the same cleaning solutions inside the ultrasonic cleaner that I mentioned above. Although a very good ultrasonic cleaning solution recipe is 50% vinegar, 50% water, a couple drops of dawn dish soap and some baking soda. This solution will clean steel perfectly down to bare metal. It removes rust, zinc plating, and everything else. I don't bother making the solution because of the possible Hydrogen Embitterment issues(vinegar is an acid, although mild) and I just don't have a need for it anymore since I added the sandblasting cabinet to my garage, you may though...<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B2BIKY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=13cd3e69ce92bca592f698bd1b6a54c6" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="ultrasonic cleaner for car parts" border="0" height="216" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U19raLHxwag/V75bC7XoK1I/AAAAAAAACxQ/X7Zr5hqRY_8tQZR1j2gqsikXMGMxJZXLgCEw/s320/81l0TN5-x6L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a>This my <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B2BIKY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B009B2BIKY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2AU3B7F3VYIDRVCQ" target="_blank">ultrasonic cleaner</a></b> below. It also has a heating function which I'm sure does a good bit of the cleaning by itself. It works well for me, I use it for small parts and fasteners. I have cleaned heater cores, throttle bodies, brake master cylinders in it too, just have to flip the parts over to keep them submerged. It can clean where I can't reach with any brush. Sometimes I will think a part is clean, until I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner, and then the water starts to turn black. You can see the results below.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYwe-mYOPdA/UftiG8snXWI/AAAAAAAABGI/LwMdjW2ka7o/s1600/IMAG0562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" border="0" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYwe-mYOPdA/UftiG8snXWI/AAAAAAAABGI/LwMdjW2ka7o/s640/IMAG0562.jpg" title="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ultrasonic cleaner in progress.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMIsZieGvNo/UftiHcGkroI/AAAAAAAABGM/rSwF3qz4rEg/s1600/IMAG0568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="cleaning car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" border="0" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMIsZieGvNo/UftiHcGkroI/AAAAAAAABGM/rSwF3qz4rEg/s640/IMAG0568.jpg" title="cleaned car parts in ultrasonic cleaner" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh out of the Ultrasonic Cleaner.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Step 5. Bake / Outgas in the Oven</span></b></div><br />I then bake the part in the oven. This not only dries the metal completely from any moisture that may have been remaining, but it also outgasses the part. Cast aluminum and cast iron are porous. Grease, oils, and other impurities can soak into the metal over time. These impurities can also be in the part from the casting process itself. Outgassing the aluminum or iron consists of baking it at a slightly higher temperature and a little bit longer time than your cure schedule.<br /><br /><br />For example, say a powders cure schedule is 400 degrees for 10 minutes. I will outgas the aluminum at 425 degrees for 20 minutes. I do not start the 20 minute timer until the actual aluminum part is 425 degrees though. I check the temperature with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B008EW837S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">non-contact infrared thermometer</a></b>. If you don't know why you should own an infrared thermometer while powder coating, <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html#.VYugYFI72KU" target="_blank">read this article</a></b>, they are essential for powder coating. For cast metal parts, you can actually see the part smoking in the oven, these are the oils evaporating out of the metal. If at 20 minutes, the part is still smoking, I will leave it in until the smoking is done and then an extra 5 minutes for good measure. I outgas every part I powder coat just to be thorough, but it is usually okay to only do it on cast items. I don't notice the extra oven use on my electric bill, but a powder coating shop that has large ovens would notice it.<br /><br /><br />The reason why you outgas a part before powder coating is to prevent it from happening during the curing stage. If those oils are left inside the cast aluminum, and you powder coat it and put it in the oven to cure, as the heat cures the powder, it also heats up the oils, causing them to expand. This expanding causes them to escape out of the part, leaving a nice pinhole in your powder coating finish which looks like:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr-YAy5J4dY/UftG6lrtWJI/AAAAAAAABFw/IyzQ8_A8IkI/s1600/IMAG0819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder coating aluminum outgassing" border="0" height="223" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr-YAy5J4dY/UftG6lrtWJI/AAAAAAAABFw/IyzQ8_A8IkI/s400/IMAG0819.jpg" title="Powder coating aluminum outgassing" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />Outgassing parts in the oven does solve about 90% of the outgassing problems when powder coating. However there are some parts out there that want to outgas no matter how long you bake it before hand. For parts like these, special powder coat primers and outgas forgiving powder coats need to be applied, but I will cover that a bit later.<br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Now that your part is clean, degreased, and outgassed. It is ready for <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.VYwc71I72KU" target="_blank"><b>media blasting</b></a> (sand blasting). Stay tuned for the next post and leave a comment if you find the sight helpful.&nbsp; For a thorough explanation of the remaining steps, head on over to "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuhslI72KV" target="_blank"><b>How to Prep for Powder Coating</b></a>".</span><br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-34575571856966340512013-07-31T21:20:00.001-07:002016-08-24T20:12:16.702-07:00Alternatives to Sand Blasting<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5d9cb7ac37b7cbcb322fec23c16e5366" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="removing rust before powder coating" border="0" height="238" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6J1OfxpcZKs/V75fHPSfJ6I/AAAAAAAACxg/LGo5vAQ_1RI2MGhErd2VUG71epTPFzp6QCLcB/s320/812NFM6D5lL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a><b>When powder coating, media blasting (sand blasting) is one of the best preparation methods possible.&nbsp; It cleans, de-rusts, and it leaves behind a texture that makes powder coating stick like nothing else. Read this <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank">Media Blasting article</a> to realize the full benefits. But for the stubborn people out there (I was one of them) who don't own a big air compressor or sandblaster and don't want to invest in them, I will go over some alternatives to sandblasting. Note: The alternatives are slower and do not achieve the same durability in the powder coating finish as media blasting.</b><br /><b></b><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><br />There are some parts that I will still use this method on.&nbsp; Valve covers and oil pans with internal baffles like to trap blast media.&nbsp; Unless you remove the baffles to thoroughly clean out all of the media afterwards, media will get trapped in the part. Later when these parts are installed in the engine, the media can get washed out by the oil and circulated around the engine.&nbsp; Blast media will quickly score bearings and journals inside the engine which can result in an engine rebuild.&nbsp; Not worth the risk to me to media blast these types of parts. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>First, let me say that when I started powder coating, I had no air compressor and no sandblaster.&nbsp; I bought the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YEAYCW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004YEAYCW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=VFNONJ4CTKIFTSNC" target="_blank"><b>Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</b></a> that did not require an air compressor.&nbsp; I was scared of the cost of a large air compressor and it required an electrical outlet that I was unfamiliar with.&nbsp; I used the methods that I am about to describe below and in the end, I bought everything I would need to sandblast.&nbsp; I eventually did buy an air compressor and learned a lot about them.&nbsp; If you would like to&nbsp; understand more about air compressors and what type you will need to sandblast, head over to "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html" target="_blank"><b>How to Choose an Air Compressor</b></a>".<br /><br />Assuming the part you are planning to powder coat is not brand new, it probably has old paint, rust, or corrosion on it.&nbsp;&nbsp; To prepare a part for powder coating without a sandblaster, the following are different methods that I used.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Wire Wheel&nbsp;</span></b><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The first step I used was a bench grinder with a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YMDK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00004YMDK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=72JJNE5N7Q73JUOV" target="_blank">wire wheel</a></b>.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Note: if your part is stainless steel, only use <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FTPQE2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B004FTPQE2&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">stainless steel wire wheels</a></b>.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This is a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000224J4&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=A2Z2EY44SEBP4ENX" target="_blank">Dewault 8 inch bench grinder</a></b>:&nbsp; (It also also works great for polishing aluminum) <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5d9cb7ac37b7cbcb322fec23c16e5366" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="removing rust before powder coating" border="0" height="238" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6J1OfxpcZKs/V75fHPSfJ6I/AAAAAAAACxg/s17s3470mx06ofAww8Y8isVfsnrrHfrsQCEw/s320/812NFM6D5lL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />This is a wire wheel:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YMDK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=865d221dba1296454523a148225ca023" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="wire wheel rust removal" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aYtSXoFRBjM/V75fHGyuQRI/AAAAAAAACxY/VEs9dtWdG_kTgqUGpXzYStBAed4KoKcawCEw/s200/61GmIRcoOiL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The wire wheels are good for removing paint and rust.&nbsp; They get old dirty metal down to clean bare metal.&nbsp; They take much longer than a sandblaster, and I was okay with that at first but it becomes tedious.&nbsp; Also the 8" wire wheel will not reach all the crevices. &nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After finishing all the larger open areas with the bench grinder, I then switched to <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QEYSG8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004QEYSG8&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LBYMMXVBD67VZPPI" target="_blank">smaller wire wheels</a> </b>mounted in a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYFND22/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BYFND22&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=W6EJER7DBSH3YJLV" target="_blank">drill</a></b>. &nbsp; They work great at getting into almost all of the small crevices.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QEYSG8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ab4a043988166894269b8f58f7d0a071"><img alt="wire wheel rust removal" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FTpCFXRF7V0/V75fHCq8V9I/AAAAAAAACxk/DegDM06DvF8JgDl03fBaz5fFyfvhQbVIACEw/s200/41CrwxaQUiL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br />This is around the time when I setup my make-shift peg board to keep myself organized.&nbsp; Now that I use a sandblast cabinet, the board has been decommissioned.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ogv6rfR25M/UfnWBYOt-KI/AAAAAAAABEk/VznxueW7pv0/s1600/IMAG0522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cheap garage organization" border="0" height="359" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ogv6rfR25M/UfnWBYOt-KI/AAAAAAAABEk/VznxueW7pv0/s640/IMAG0522.jpg" title="cheap garage organization" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />After I got into all of the areas I possibly could with the various sized wire wheels, I used a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B002L3RUVG&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">Dremel</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002L3RUVG" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> with a<b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Y8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0000302Y8&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" target="_blank">flex shaft</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000302Y8" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></b> and a very tiny wire wheel<img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000HWRU9U" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> . The little wire wheels wear down very fast so I learned to stop buying the Dremel name brand ones that were $6.00 each and found<b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Proxxon-Dremel-Rotary-Tools-Pack/dp/B013P0ZHFE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472094435&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=dremel+wire+wheel&amp;refinements=p_72:2661618011&amp;psc=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=71cee220fcaa80fb34b65a8ef0f3c719" target="_blank">this assorted pack</a></b> which comes with every size you need to get to any crevice and they are much cheaper. Just keep in mind that they fling sharp bristles as you work.&nbsp; Protect your eyes and skin.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Proxxon-Dremel-Rotary-Tools-Pack/dp/B013P0ZHFE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472094435&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=dremel+wire+wheel&amp;refinements=p_72:2661618011&amp;psc=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=71cee220fcaa80fb34b65a8ef0f3c719"><img alt="rust removal dremel wire wheel kit" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6rsKSfROd7E/V75hQ7nAlyI/AAAAAAAACxs/GHv8XJyXFm4wClWoI5VDLRjuwqQ1vyicACLcB/s320/81DBBySw%252BXL._SL1024_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br />Another simple way to keep organized was this make-shift Dremel attachment holder.&nbsp; I hated the Dremel case so I just drilled 1/8 holes into a block of wood, and now my Dremel attachments are always handy.&nbsp; The container is held onto the wood with double sided tape.&nbsp; Little things like this keep me sane in the garage.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bIQAHC62QcY/UfnWBu_MOAI/AAAAAAAABEw/ocwQbdBTMNQ/s1600/IMAG0569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="dremel bit organization" border="0" height="358" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bIQAHC62QcY/UfnWBu_MOAI/AAAAAAAABEw/ocwQbdBTMNQ/s640/IMAG0569.jpg" title="dremel bit organization" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />So now that you have spent a couple hours wire wheeling your way to clean bare metal, you should have a part that went from this:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZijGhdgxOU/UfnZt4PQDCI/AAAAAAAABFE/BKNzq0ljc9w/s1600/Picture+3003376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating parts before cleaning" border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZijGhdgxOU/UfnZt4PQDCI/AAAAAAAABFE/BKNzq0ljc9w/s640/Picture+3003376.jpg" title="powder coating parts before cleaning" width="640" /></a></div><br />To this: <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIl8mkM06Io/UfnZtWcFBnI/AAAAAAAABE8/YONJcUDntGk/s1600/Picture+3003396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating parts wire wheeling rust" border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIl8mkM06Io/UfnZtWcFBnI/AAAAAAAABE8/YONJcUDntGk/s640/Picture+3003396.jpg" title="powder coating parts wire wheeling rust" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>Looks good, but do not stop there.&nbsp; Wire-wheels and wire brushes leave very smooth polished scratches in metal.&nbsp; This results in a shiny appearance and a shine is the result of a smooth surface.&nbsp; This leaves little for the powder coating to grab onto and the results are coatings that chip off very easily.<br /><br />The next step is bound to be your favorite: Sanding.&nbsp; <br /><br />While sanding, your aim is to remove the shine. I always used two consecutive steps, first <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8WCA2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000B8WCA2&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=WTWD7WF4WXGUJRKX" target="_blank"><b>3M 220 Grit</b></a> and then finish it off with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MSY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0002MSY86&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=IDF4CUAMXH4B3HIH" target="_blank"><b>3M 400 Grit sandpaper</b></a>.&nbsp; Remember, the goal is to add texture, not to remove a bunch of metal and change the dimensions of the part. <br /><br />After sanding, you can then re-clean your part and go on to powder coat it. However, keep in mind that when you rinse any cleaner off of the bare metal part, the part will want to rust very quickly. It is best to do the final rinse in cold water and dry it as fast and as thoroughly as possible. I recommend wearing disposable gloves while drying and handling the part after it is clean. Touching the part can cause little rusty fingerprints to show up due to the salts on your skin.&nbsp; After the part is dried, do a quick bake in the oven to remove any remaining moisture.&nbsp; <br /><br />I still found the powder coating was less durable than desired so I broke down and bought a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002LGM5ZO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=AMUJYZNIRTQHGXOD" target="_blank"><b>sandblasting cabinet</b></a> and an air compressor.&nbsp; Not only is it way faster, the powder coat was much more chip resistant. I <b>s</b>till wanted to cover these methods for those that are not ready to invest in blasting equipment yet. If you are planning on powder coating parts for paying customers, absolutely do not use this method, sandblasting is the only way to go, read this <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank"><b>Media Blasting article</b></a> to realize the full benefits.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-15816659205502430512013-07-28T21:08:00.004-07:002017-10-09T22:25:19.031-07:00Stripping Powder Coat<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" guqfxzq="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWFyj60IB34/VYwz0LewtmI/AAAAAAAAB8s/kqNcu933UaQ/s1600/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="stripping removing powder coat" border="0" height="256" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWFyj60IB34/VYwz0LewtmI/AAAAAAAAB8s/kqNcu933UaQ/s320/stripping%2Bpowder%2Bcoat.jpg" title="stripping removing powder coat" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lets talk about how to remove powder coat. Why would you want to strip powder coat from a part? As you start powder coating, you are going to make some errors. It doesn't always come out like you expected. If that happens, it is nice to be able to remove the powder coating so you can try again. There are several ways to remove powder coat. You an remove powder coating with a chemical stripper, media blasting, or a burn-off oven.</b></span><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" guqfxzq="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script></div><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Chemical Powder Coating Stripper</span></b><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">Benco B17&nbsp;</span></span></b><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf83IGDJLUs/WMR2NJFcSKI/AAAAAAAADA8/pdR0n6doZSEbu2zq8FPwhJXt_aFsmeRywCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf83IGDJLUs/WMR2NJFcSKI/AAAAAAAADA8/pdR0n6doZSEbu2zq8FPwhJXt_aFsmeRywCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.png" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">By far the easiest way to strip powder coat is chemically, and <b><a href="http://www.bencosales.com/powder-coating-and-aircraft-strippers/b17-powder-coating-stripper" target="_blank">Benco B17</a></b> is by far the best powder coat stripper. B17 will remove most powder coatings in less than 20 minutes. It is also great at removing paint and just about any other coating. It has a high concentration of methylene chloride which is what removes powder coat. To use the stripper, you simply dip the part in and wait. Check on it every 5 to 10 minutes and pull it out when you see the powder coating is falling off. From there you can rinse the part in water mixed with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKO8B2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000KKO8B2&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=RDMEYL6VMUYYDAE6" target="_blank"><b>TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)</b></a>. TSP will neutralize all of the B17 chemical, but you also need another TSP dipping tank if you go that route. The water/TSP will rinse off and neutralize most of the B17 stripper, but to ensure that you have removed all of the stripper, a quick bake in the oven will evaporate any traces left over.&nbsp; Once the part is completely dried, it won't be pretty.&nbsp; The part will develop surface rust after the stripping process but this is easily removed by media blasting (to learn more about media blasting, check out the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html#.V-0QyyS1iW8">Media Blasting article</a>). </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1moZ0vcSxZ4/WMRvi6AnPsI/AAAAAAAADAo/B5U0ngTXUz4KZK5vISELjZDsua0uQjPjwCLcB/s1600/1%2B%252859%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="benco b17 stripper on metal" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1moZ0vcSxZ4/WMRvi6AnPsI/AAAAAAAADAo/B5U0ngTXUz4KZK5vISELjZDsua0uQjPjwCLcB/s400/1%2B%252859%2529.JPG" title="benco b17 stripper on metal" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Stripping with Benco B17</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">For longer or awkward parts that won't fit in a powder coat stripping container, a rag soaked in B17 can be used to wrap around sections of the part.&nbsp; Keep the rag stored in an airtight container when not in use and you can reuse it. All safety gear mentioned below must be used while handling the B17.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><!-- Top of Article --><br /></div><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" guqfxzq="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Benco B17 can be ordered from Benco in 5 gallon, 35 gallon, and 55 gallon quantities. You can also order B17 in a 1 gallon quantity <a href="http://www.columbiacoatings.com/store/p/5214-B15-Industrial-Paste-Stripper-1-Gal.aspx" target="_blank"><b>here</b></a>, however due to the dangerous nature of this chemical, shipping is very expensive. It is more economical to buy directly from Benco.</div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><b>The downsides to using Benco B17:</b></div><ul><li style="text-align: left;">Its dangerous</li><li style="text-align: left;">Its expensive</li><li style="text-align: left;">It smells terrible</li><li style="text-align: left;">It will burn your skin on contact</li><li style="text-align: left;">It slows down in cold weather (you must heat up part before submerging in colder areas).</li><li style="text-align: left;">Its just an all around nasty chemical</li></ul><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>However, remember the upsides:</b></div><ul><li style="text-align: left;">It works faster and lasts longer than just about any powder coat stripper on the market.&nbsp; See video below.</li></ul><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe data-blogger-escaped-allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/KqQDLxdsovI" width="480"></iframe></div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></b></span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Safely Storing Powder Coat Stripper</span></b></span></h4></div><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002FCP4WU" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wEDEnMlFZxQ/WMR4J9JeBXI/AAAAAAAADBM/-NIHZpYeLRIqezB_0grKqp9O5agPI-l_QCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2B55%2Bgallon%2Bdrum.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wEDEnMlFZxQ/WMR4J9JeBXI/AAAAAAAADBM/-NIHZpYeLRIqezB_0grKqp9O5agPI-l_QCLcB/s200/benco%2Bb17%2B55%2Bgallon%2Bdrum.png" width="170" /></a>B17 and other powder coating strippers must be stored in an HDPE container with a lid. I suggest a container that is as big as your oven (if you are using a household oven or smaller). Since you cannot powder coat things larger than your oven, there is no reason to have a stripping tank larger than your oven. If you do have a large oven, I suggest a stripping tank that accommodates your biggest, most-frequently coated item. Example: If you often coat 22" rims, make sure you get a drum that is at least 23"+ in diameter. If you are powder coating motorcycle frames, get a tank that can fit at least have the frame in at a time. For the people powder coating smaller items, most of the time you can get away with the container that the B17 comes in. If you need to strip something that will not fit inside of the stripping container, you can soak some rags in B17, and lay them or wrap them around the part. This will work, it is just more labor intensive and takes longer.<br /><br /></div><br /><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coaitng supplies" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcV_dHUxRss/VY4wPB1KRGI/AAAAAAAAB_4/UvS8gYxv6gg/s1600/Recommended%2Bsupplies%2Blogo%2B1.png" title="powder coating store" /></a></div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">These <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;field-keywords=eagle%20overpack%20drums&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;linkId=TSXG6N3HWCW343LO" target="_blank">Eagle Overpack Drums</a></b> are perfect for B17 use and are the same tanks a lot of professional powder coating shops use. They have a sealing lid which you is highly desirable. It will contain the smell and will stop the evaporation of the chemical. They are a little pricey, but you only have to buy it once and they are the absolute best way to store a dangerous chemical like B17.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here you can see a very professional powder coat stripping area using 2 95-gallon Eagle Overpack Drum, one for the B17 stripper and one is used as a rinsing tank.&nbsp; Also take note of the safety equipment such as the ventilation fan, chemical gloves, and chemical apron.&nbsp; This is a good idea of the safety precautions that need to be taken when dealing with B17 in a shop.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NxSqTTzRVE/WMR5N5KNCVI/AAAAAAAADBY/o9r0EyynUOENY0QjvayGhRXx_42XD7ITwCLcB/s1600/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NxSqTTzRVE/WMR5N5KNCVI/AAAAAAAADBY/o9r0EyynUOENY0QjvayGhRXx_42XD7ITwCLcB/s640/benco%2Bb17%2Bpowder%2Bcoat%2Bstripper.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">These drums come in a couple different sizes so you will need to decide which one is right for you. Keep in mind the inside dimensions of your average home oven are about: 23" wide x 19" deep x 15" tall.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003JFL6X8&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=IBZVDKIASEVDKS5S" target="_blank">The 30 gallon drum</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002FCP4WU" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></b> matches a household oven almost perfectly. It has a diameter of 16" and is 27" tall. This is a great powder coat stripping drum for the home powder coater doing small parts.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ac06e6b7a65bc6950742d4b3451f039c"><img alt="benco b17 storage" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zHKXBUO5gK8/V75jDAqVRzI/AAAAAAAACyI/92rNdD7H2Y8eULlrHQ3CpPBsAmNe5agsQCLcB/s200/710VFMfZVPL._SL1500_.jpg" title="benco b17 storage" width="140" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025QAO6C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0025QAO6C&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3WLNK4Q566PO6F6O" target="_blank"><b>The 65 gallon drum</b></a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00E1N6LD2" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> is perfect for wheels. It has a 31" diameter so it can all types of wheels and because it is 33" tall, it can fit at least 2 wheels at a time.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025QAO6C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fa4d8e1f2d9e72fad015813704b52f05"><img alt="Benco B17 Powder coat stripper storage container" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLt5knprMdk/V75jDcm5rJI/AAAAAAAACyU/wSaYGiGs4341GcfskbY0b83EXBODr_7OgCEw/s200/81sDcrv3buL._SL1500_.jpg" title="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ac06e6b7a65bc6950742d4b3451f039c" width="153" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL55C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003JFL55C&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=37EU7LIEZUI7OO2F" target="_blank"><b>The 95 Gallon Drum</b></a> is for the serious powder coater.&nbsp; This drum will fit 4 wheels at one time which is sure to up your efficiency. 31" diameter x 41" tall.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL55C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d21482ede8550fa6df027f0051ab9f95"><img alt="Benco B17 Powder coat stripper storage container" border="0" height="186" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lmQK2N35C50/V75jDGbQtxI/AAAAAAAACyE/2KDCU4eDvokpUAPVJOrzv94ZhsK1vdWRQCEw/s200/61T4hOzr4AL._SL1124_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Chains can be used to lower and raise large parts into the drum. For smaller parts, a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGRUTT8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BGRUTT8&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=KFP3SJX6VH45AEG7" target="_blank"><b>dipping basket</b></a> can be used. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGRUTT8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e4e7bcad4470d731790900ae0ac48e2b"><img alt="benco b17 dipping basket" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qa_QYL2P_ik/V75jDdIUdBI/AAAAAAAACyQ/zTtFcNxFzRsMVyety_6CS0txlWW8_TK4wCEw/s320/71UppsXEuqL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="233" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>&nbsp;Safe Handling</b></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Benco B17 is a very effective but very dangerous powder coat stripper.&nbsp; It can burn your skin on contact. Do not go near this chemical without gloves and eye protection.&nbsp; I recommend the following.</div><br /><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNMKW9S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BNMKW9S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=HSGR5PGLMTMUTWON" target="_blank">Elbow Length Multi-Layer Glove</a></b><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6800-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472095228&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=3m+respirator&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fc05bbbbfb24eaea28411cc111420568" target="_blank"><b>Full Face Respirator</b></a><br /><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GIF70H2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00GIF70H2&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=PIZN2CE24W776SQF" target="_blank">Heavy Duty Apron</a></b><br /><b>&nbsp; </b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6800-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1K1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472095228&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=3m+respirator&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d2052ff54e08f53d3781ac17e9c864d5" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 respirator" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OIqmCaSqHtw/V75kO_DvgtI/AAAAAAAACyc/VZlnLbnMGMso5Fj7gB9Z6WMEZGx64nw7wCEw/s200/31cHBeqmQ5L.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNMKW9S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=6804c0c828aab52deb0792c34caa94f8" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 powder coat stripper gloves" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mza1V2IqZZ4/V75jC2T5DQI/AAAAAAAACx4/erokRDrnwMAmXSCaECTQQ_YJu8IBV5P2gCEw/s200/31mRipGUVOL.jpg" title="" width="135" /></a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GIF70H2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=c5bbbe0e8b669984cc238975d3002a35" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="benco b17 power coat stripper apron" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-8ZhRub1DU/V75jDL6-aaI/AAAAAAAACyM/CgQ4r-kecu47lhecy0Toh1HN0t39eIdTgCEw/s200/71J5yR7gILL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="124" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">If you use the B17, remember to be careful. It is a serious stripper. Avoid actions that it will cause it to splash or spill. If you have small kids or animals that go in your work space, I don't recommend it. Be sure to read all of the safety warnings on the Benco website.</div><br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Alternative Powder Coat Stripping Methods</b></span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b>&nbsp;</b></span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Powder Strip by Express Chem</b></span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;"><b>&nbsp;</b></span> </h4><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-4tuVVHfgA/WMR1THt0kfI/AAAAAAAADA4/Zj5xs6NVyxgzrzxMLl_2Qp-x3v8Y70EHQCLcB/s1600/Powder%2BStrip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="75" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-4tuVVHfgA/WMR1THt0kfI/AAAAAAAADA4/Zj5xs6NVyxgzrzxMLl_2Qp-x3v8Y70EHQCLcB/s200/Powder%2BStrip.jpg" width="200" /></a>Benco B17 is not the only powder coat stripper on the market.&nbsp; There are others that work well, not as well as B17, but the trade-off is that they are more pleasant to use.&nbsp; <a href="https://powderstrip.com/">Powder Strip</a> PS-1L is another powder coat stripper that I&nbsp; have used with good results.&nbsp; It is not quite as fast as Benco B17 and sometimes there will be some stubborn powder coat stuck in a crevice that does not get removed, but the smell is much better and it does not burn skin immediately on contact.&nbsp; PS-1L is by no-means safe to handle carelessly, but if you do ever happen to slip up and get drop of it on your skin, you will have time to get to a sink and wash it off before it burns and leaves scars.&nbsp; I can be around it with just a respirator and not smell a thing.&nbsp; There are several strippers of different strength strippers from Powder Strip and you can request some samples to choose which one you want to use. Keep in mind that the stronger stripper, PS-2L, will burn skin on contact.&nbsp; The average price for Powder Strip is $150 for a 5 gallon drum or $625-$695 for a 55 gallon drum. &nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Paint Stripper</span></h4><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y1KX9E/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=87104345cd54d41f8d329df965ff1f64" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coat stripper" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qlLhwqiSOWI/V75jC6XbzNI/AAAAAAAACyA/RKi1ZAFERWQsHHnprrDxKibttevtGc3CQCEw/s200/418NxNu76LL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><br />While Benco B17 is commonly referred to as the best powder coating stripper, it is really meant for a powder coater that will use it frequently. If you powder coat a couple of times a year and need a every-once-in-awhile powder coat stripper, a more common paint stripper, sometimes called Aircraft stripper, can be used. These come in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VI13L6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000VI13L6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ZO42SAD4VAA6JAQF">aerosol</a> which are basically a one-time use can, or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y1KX9E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004Y1KX9E&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=DH2VMMLD6YHOH3JZ">gels</a> which can be lathered on. These aren't extremely effective at removing powder coat, but with enough time and multiple applications, they can work. One important consideration, unless the product contains methylene chloride, it will hardly touch the powder coat. <br /><br />It is best to wrap a part in saran wrap or a garbage bag after the product is applied as it will slow down evaporation. After waiting 30 minutes, unwrap the part, scrape off as much powder coat as you can. Repeat this process until all of the powder coat is removed. Chemical safe gloves, safetey googles, and a respirator is highly recommended when using these products.<br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Sandblasting </span></h4><br />Another method to strip powder coat is <a href="https://www.blogger.com/%3Cimg%20alt=%22%22%20border=%220%22%20src=%22http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00GIF70H2%22%20height=%221%22%20style=%22border:%20none%20!important;%20margin:%200px%20!important;%22%20width=%221%22%20/%3E">media blasting</a> aka sandblasting. This will take a very long time even for smaller parts. It takes about 30 seconds per square inch to strip powder coating this way. If you have a sandblasting cabinet and don't want to invest in the B17, then this method is basically the only other way. You can see how long it takes me to blast off very small areas in the video below. The first part is powder coated, ignore the second part as it is just spray paint. <span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/odCckvIrdRk" width="420"></iframe></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <!-- Top of Article --><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" guqfxzq="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Burn-Off Oven</span></b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>The burn-off oven method of stripping powder coat is not really for the DIY'er or small shop at all. It involves an oven that can heat parts up to 1000 degrees to actually burn the powder coating off. I don't recommend this because at those temperatures, you are affecting the heat treating of steel and annealing aluminum. Also the ovens are very specialized, not something you can do with your home oven.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4XO0-hcoQwY/VYxJ1QVF98I/AAAAAAAAB88/PXUqeQkcu64/s1600/burn%2Boff%2Boven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating burn off oven" border="0" height="283" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4XO0-hcoQwY/VYxJ1QVF98I/AAAAAAAAB88/PXUqeQkcu64/s400/burn%2Boff%2Boven.jpg" title="powder coating burn off oven" width="400" /></a></div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" guqfxzq="" hidden=""><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </span></div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script><span style="font-size: small;"> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --></span></div></div>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-56988330698118532092013-07-27T11:25:00.000-07:002015-07-01T14:51:54.914-07:00Powder Coating: Perfect for Car Restorations<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />I am going to take a break on explaining the types of tools needed for powder coating and discuss powder coating from a car restoration standpoint.&nbsp; I am in the middle of a car restoration myself. My car is a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4. I learned to powder coat for this car and powder coating will play a major role in making this car look new and keep it that way for many years.&nbsp; Because powder coating comes in so many colors, shades and textures, it can match basically any finish possible.&nbsp; Even if you have a 60's era muscle car and would like a completely concourse restoration, powder coating can be used to match those original finishes. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a38ygpwugEM/UfzzG4h8ZTI/AAAAAAAABHQ/tfraceZwBWk/s1600/wiki+page.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="black 99 Mitsbubishi 3000gt vr4" border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a38ygpwugEM/UfzzG4h8ZTI/AAAAAAAABHQ/tfraceZwBWk/s400/wiki+page.JPG" title="black 99 Mitsbubishi 3000gt vr4" width="400" /></a></div><br /><a name='more'></a><br />When doing a car restoration, you more than likely have an abundance of parts that look old. The cast iron and steel parts probably resemble a ball of rust, and the aluminum parts are likely stained and oxidized.<br /><br />Example:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDTkCkGq3U4/UfQWaAs2AKI/AAAAAAAABCI/dkdRhQE5fc0/s1600/IMAG06372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating fan resistor housing" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDTkCkGq3U4/UfQWaAs2AKI/AAAAAAAABCI/dkdRhQE5fc0/s1600/IMAG06372.JPG" title="powder coating fan resistor housing" /></a></div><br /><br />Above is a housing for a radiator fan resistor. It consists of 2 small simple parts. For anyone restoring a car to either brand new show room condition, or their own take on what brand new should look like... the condition of this part will not do. <br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">So what are your options?</span></b><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Spray Paint?</span></h4>You can spray paint it. Spray paint is cheap and easy to apply.. BUT spray paint not only has a cheap look to it, but its durability is lacking. It is very easy to scratch or chip and because it is so easily damaged, it gives rust a chance to start, and spread.&nbsp; I have yet to find a spray paint that I can't dig into my fingernail.<br />Here is a comparison video of spray paint vs. powder coat that I made: (The paint used is Duplicolor Engine Enamel over Duplicolor Self-Etching Primer)<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/odCckvIrdRk?feature=player_embedded" width="640"></iframe><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">2 Part Automotive Paint?</span></b><br /><br />You can paint it using a 2 part automotive paint. This is a great option for durability and it will look great. The paint will also prevent rust from forming underneath of it for many years. BUT this type of paint is expensive. Assuming you do not want to paint every single thing in your car one color, you will have to order a pint or quart of each color. Well a pint of paint runs about $30 for a good brand, then add the hardener for an other $30, do you want the part flat, semi-gloss, or really glossy? That is 3 different clear coats right there, and clearcoats need their own hardeners. Luckily, primer is pretty universal. You are looking at more than $100 for each color or gloss-level that you want for your parts. Now after you buy all these paint materials, you must apply several coats primer, paint, clear all while waiting and cleaning out your paint gun in-between. It is very labor intensive and you will spend a lot of time to paint just the one little bracket above. You can parts in batches to save time, but you are still looking at a full day worth of work.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Plating?</span></b><br /><br />You can also have it plated in chrome, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SKJ2PO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B002SKJ2PO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">zinc</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002SKJ2PO" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, nickel, cadmium, etc. Well chrome is expensive but if you want it to look like chrome, chrome plating is your only option so I am sure you are willing to pay the price. The other plating methods can be done by a plater or even by yourself with a kit from Caswell Plating or Eastwood. If you decide to take them to a plater, they will have a minimum order price. That one bracket above will cost the same as 100 brackets. So if you want to take all of your parts in at once, its a viable option and not a bad one. Each type of plating has its advantages and disadvantages. Just remember, the part above is zinc plated from the factory and that is what it looks like now. <br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Powder Coating</span></b><br /><br />Finally, the magical solution it would seem. You can powder coat it. Powder coating looks great, is extremely durable, and protects the metal from rust. Say you want this one part to have a nice gunmetal color and only this part. A 1/2 pound of powder runs about $7, clear is another $7. So $14 and you have all the supplies necessary to coat this part. Because I did not mention tools required(and the prices of them) to apply the coatings in the above methods, I will not mention it here either. All of the methods would require media blasting or at least getting the part down to clean bare metal so we will assume the part is media blasted before hand. So you have your freshly blasted part above, shoot a coat of powder on it, stick it in the oven for 20 minutes(5 minutes for the part to get up to temp), let it cool and your done. Or for the specific color shown below, it also needs a clear, repeat the process for the clear coat(another 22 minutes later) and it is done. Less than one hour of time spent, and $14 in materials(which there are still plenty left of) and the part is done and has a beautiful finish that will last for 20+years.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWz7HaDYcdQ/UfQWPWqobLI/AAAAAAAABCA/ntIYVTnH_Yc/s1600/fan+resistor+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating engine bay parts" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWz7HaDYcdQ/UfQWPWqobLI/AAAAAAAABCA/ntIYVTnH_Yc/s1600/fan+resistor+2.JPG" title="Powder Coating engine bay parts" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>Powder coating is not just for wheels and valve covers. It can play a huge role in your entire restoration. There are hundreds of small parts (parts that fit in your oven) that go into a car that don't justify all the time and money using a paint gun, but they are still worth more than what a can of spray paint has to offer. I believe powder coating is the perfect answer to this. Check out my powder coating transformations below:<br /><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V65gFdm4IRA/UfQQdWfrnnI/AAAAAAAABBo/BPUekE4iacs/s1600/ALTERNATOR+DONE.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder coating alternator " border="0" height="315" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V65gFdm4IRA/UfQQdWfrnnI/AAAAAAAABBo/BPUekE4iacs/s640/ALTERNATOR+DONE.png" title="Powder coating alternator " width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alternator rebuilt and the housings powder coated in Bonded Black Chrome.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuw5f08rKuI/UfQQbv_X8YI/AAAAAAAABBY/OnhQ96QcuAA/s1600/BRAKE+MASTER+DONE.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coating brake master cylinder" border="0" height="516" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuw5f08rKuI/UfQQbv_X8YI/AAAAAAAABBY/OnhQ96QcuAA/s640/BRAKE+MASTER+DONE.png" title="Powder Coating brake master cylinder" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebuilt Brake master cylinder and Clutch master cylinder done in Bonded Black Chrome</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JganYCohU-E/UfQQcE_JWoI/AAAAAAAABBc/k0Cxn1rJ41o/s1600/BRAKE+PEDAL+DONE.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating pedal assembly" border="0" height="455" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JganYCohU-E/UfQQcE_JWoI/AAAAAAAABBc/k0Cxn1rJ41o/s640/BRAKE+PEDAL+DONE.png" title="powder coating pedal assembly" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brake &amp; Clutch Pedal Assembly done in Matte Black &amp; Gloss Black</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br />Oil Pan done in Gloss Black<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jX1VSRpkVP4/UfQQetQ_jnI/AAAAAAAABBw/fmATHqnOCI4/s1600/OIL+PAN+DONE.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="black powder coated oil pan" border="0" height="278" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jX1VSRpkVP4/UfQQetQ_jnI/AAAAAAAABBw/fmATHqnOCI4/s640/OIL+PAN+DONE.png" title="black powder coated oil pan" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil Pan done in Super Durable Wet Black.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Stay tuned for the next post and leave a comment if you find the sight helpful.&nbsp; Thanks!<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-37440895367250654572013-07-26T00:27:00.000-07:002017-03-11T13:41:04.860-08:00Media Blasting Part II - Setting up a Sandblast Cabinet<div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" hidden=""></div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script><script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> I explained the different types of blasters (pressure pot and siphon) and blasting in a blast cabinet, outside, or in a dedicated blasting room in the previous topic: <b><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">Media Blasting</a></b>. This article will talk about setting up your media blasting cabinet to be as efficient as possible. <br /><br />Given that most people reading this are probably DIY powder coaters doing this in their garage, I will say that a sandblasting cabinet is the best setup. Your media is constantly recycled and the mess is contained inside of your blast cabinet. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQEhoU6Vi-g/UfIB8jMjgCI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/owQp8mfoUH0/s1600/garage+setup+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating in garage" border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQEhoU6Vi-g/UfIB8jMjgCI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/owQp8mfoUH0/s400/garage+setup+1.png" title="powder coating in garage" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Capacity-Floor-Cabinet/dp/B0094GCX8S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468392356&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blast+cabinet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=25f1d29f4e370e98d94f2669b61a7e69" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cheap sandblasting cabinet for powder coating" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qMVqcFQicU8/V75maeGFzWI/AAAAAAAACyw/AWF-DTCflJ41dLjl7Jq81IK5aLZrJ32-ACLcB/s320/31OFtnarV3L.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div>The reason why I say cabinet is the best option for a DIY coater is because your the parts that you are powder coating are mostly likely limited by the size of your oven. Oven pricing is definitely not linear, you have a toaster oven for $20, a full size household oven for $50 used, and the smallest powder coating oven can be over $1,000. So I am assuming that most of you are using either a household oven or a toaster oven. <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Capacity-Floor-Cabinet/dp/B0094GCX8S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468392356&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blast+cabinet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=88e896be589a3c558047ae999d16715f">Cheap sandblasting cabinets</a></b> are great for DIY coaters because the internal dimensions pretty closely match the size of a household oven so as long as you don't get to claustrophobic, you don't necessarily need a gigantic blasting cabinet.&nbsp; An exception to this is that while most wheels will fit into the cabinet like the one mentioned above, if you want to turn the wheel over, it has to come out of the cabinet, be flipped around, and go back in. This is the point where you may want to spend the money on a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Sandblast-Cabinet-built-Collector/dp/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_tl&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d85b4b38d72160c937ed2030f901882f">bigger blast cabinet</a></b> or hire out your blasting.&nbsp; Unless you buy a larger cabinet that comes with great lighting, built-in dust collection, and is perfectly air tight out of the box, then you will need to do some modifications to your cabinet to make it more efficient. <br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li3&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0094GCX8S" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Optimizing a Cheap Sand Blasting Cabinet</span></b><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Caulk the Cabinet's Seams </span></h4>First, the cabinet I mentioned above is about the cheapest floor-standing cabinet available that closely matches the dimensions of a household oven. So of course, it is going to need a little tweaking. The first thing I did after assembly was to caulk all of the seams of the cabinet to make sure no sandblasting dust can escape the cabinet.&nbsp; If there is even a minor leak in the cabinet, you will notice that every surface of the garage will be covered with dust after awhile. I highly recommend <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5OOPU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1789&amp;amp;creative=390957&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B000H5OOPU&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;amp;linkId=X6SMOAWH7ZXEX6X7">Silicone free caulk</a></b> to seal up all of the inside seams and through bolts in your cabinet.&nbsp; This should be done before you have added any blasting media to the cabinet, otherwise, you must thoroughly clean the cabinet for the caulk to seal correctly.<br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Upgrade the Sandblasting Gun in the Cabinet</span></h4>This is not 100% necessary but if you want an efficient sandblasting cabinet, a better sandblasting gun can make a world of difference.&nbsp; Skat Blast sandblasting guns are a great upgrade as they are more powerful, faster, and more comfortable than the cheaper guns that come with a cabinet.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489268249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=skat+blast+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=73c3308c20f1e05683c0f42fc3f9569d"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489268249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=skat+blast+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=73c3308c20f1e05683c0f42fc3f9569d" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8UfgFmuEU2I/WMRPbD9X8iI/AAAAAAAADAc/iJm40HV_TFgmyJatinE06ZyNlih9svfBgCEw/s320/Skat%2BBlast%2Bsandblasting%2Bgun.jpg" title="best sandblasting gun" width="320" /></a></div><br />There are different versions of the gun and nozzles available for different air compressors:<br /><br /><b><u>Air Compressor Output</u>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; <u>Gun</u>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <u>Nozzle</u></b><br />4-9 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N2WB4JL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266424&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=skat+blast+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fb05e768b07534cefae29e640853df2b">S-35 Small</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01N0UZ6T6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489261223&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e6a0e19c1b5b02e4e3450b6605f397d6">Small Ceramic</a><br />10-15 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489261223&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fbe795fe44d166298aee1174b2d9365f">S-35 Medium</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4f8f51a5b8e250f558c66ed0aca03bfa">Medium Ceramic</a> / <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=555ffda8692d5bcfa89f3e8d017b5328">Medium Carbide</a><br />20-25 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Operated-Sandblasting/dp/B01MU32FYM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489260801&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3be3b9e103a8d1a9a34efa8c98ed50b6">C-35-S Large</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01NANBC3V/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266758&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=99b5202f128c2f4bac4ba1e844aed63c">Large Ceramic</a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <br />25+ CFM &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B01NH08KBD/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01NH08KBD&amp;pd_rd_r=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&amp;pd_rd_w=Rr7me&amp;pd_rd_wg=GAKnk&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=cf7da74d8728c9aa6749467cd58197e3">High-Volume Gun</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Hi-Pro-High-Power/dp/B06WP4YW8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266828&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8bc2d8ff00ced4698a3657f57343eefb">High-Volume Head</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>The next step is protecting the window.</b></span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>&nbsp;</b></span> <br />Your blast cabinet comes with a tempered glass window for safety reasons. If you do nothing to protect it, the window will slowly be etched by your media bouncing back and hitting the glass. This can happen to the point of not being able to see through the window at all. <br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZC30IQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=add7571e55389b577b11e232481aae7e" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting cabinet peel off window protector" border="0" height="119" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-42dHdnUIU3o/V75maAxXmvI/AAAAAAAACys/tvetAYiJunAjQYkirtkhrpBAbf7xvIEkQCEw/s200/616NXFd07HL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZC30IQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=add7571e55389b577b11e232481aae7e">Peel-off window films</a></b> protect the sandblasting cabinet window<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZC30IQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B006ZC30IQ&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20"></a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B006ZC30IQ" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />. These are just like the little plastic sheets you put on the touchscreen of your cell phone. They are meant to be applied to the window and they take the beating instead of the glass. The life you get on them depends on how close you blast to your window and what PSI your blasting at. Blasting should be done as far away from the window as possible and at a 45 degree angle so that the media deflects off to the side of the cabinet instead of right back at it.&nbsp; Once the film becomes etched, just peel it off, clean the glass, and apply a new film.&nbsp; <br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B006ZC30IQ" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br />Another option is going down to Lowes or Home Depot and having a piece of glass cut the same exact dimensions of your window. They charge about $10 for glass that size and they will cut it for free. Then just take that piece of glass and place it on the inside of the tempered glass that came in your cabinet. The cut piece of glass will last longer than the sticky film sheets mentioned above but you do have to disassemble your window shroud every time you want to replace the protector glass. Also put a piece of tape around the border of the 2 pieces of glass to seal them together. Otherwise media will manage to get lodged in there and there is no way to get it out without disassembling the whole window frame. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lighting your Cabinet:</b></span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxrQqZKFvSA/V4Xi7GAzMaI/AAAAAAAACiU/AosLBPYEjxYPG4dZQ8F8_VxqB0ib8HnmgCLcB/s1600/sandblasting%2Bcabinet%2Blights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qxrQqZKFvSA/V4Xi7GAzMaI/AAAAAAAACiU/AosLBPYEjxYPG4dZQ8F8_VxqB0ib8HnmgCLcB/s640/sandblasting%2Bcabinet%2Blights.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />Most media blasting cabinets come with some sort of overhead light.&nbsp; If you are using a bench top blast cabinet or if you would like some extra light, a very cheap light that works well is a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Single-TUbe-Strip-Light/dp/B00BS97ZVO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=dfcef638753c29b35247c0aef8477740">fish tank hood light</a></b> placed on the top portion of the blast cabinet window. It is what I use on my cabinet, and it provides all of the light I need. Because the light is outside the cabinet, it is protected from dust and being blasted. If you use any internal cabinet lighting, the dust can build up on the light until the point that it does nothing.&nbsp; However, in blast cabinet, the more lighting, the better. <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Round-Magnetic-Integral-Hanging-Magnet/dp/B00UMSEP0Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468392016&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=magnetic+lights&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a0ce972a7aa559adb3c1340508b2f5d8">Puck lights</a></b> or <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Bulbs-Waterproof-Flexible-T93007-1/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468391513&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=led+light+strips&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=93e8898f6031801277816f4a0dcc4ee9">LED light strips</a></b> are a great way to add more light.&nbsp; Just keep in mind, that without some kind of protection, they will eventually get pitted and be useless.&nbsp; So either go cheap with the lights or use some kind of glass or plexiglass shielding. Even more important is to protect any of the lights wiring running inside of the cabinet.&nbsp; It wouldn't take long for for the blasting media to wear away at the wire insulation which could turn your entire media blasting cabinet into a shock hazard. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><b><span style="font-size: large;">Dust Collection:</span></b><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span><br /></b><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBD0XC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=03128ce61b4228f37a9b1ace7954a5ee" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sand blasting cabinet dust collector" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Id-kfzncwcQ/V75maXXpuHI/AAAAAAAACy8/LrWhIj3FWYkZETseLkHtKALUZyj2rCvTACEw/s200/61ZNYP9d1RL._SL1200_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>Whatever media you use will eventually break down into fine dust, it will float around inside your cabinet reducing visibility to the point that you cannot see a thing. It will also leak out of any openings in the cabinet and completely coat every thing in the room. This is where a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBD0XC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B006ZBD0XC&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">Dust Collector</a></b> comes in to play. These are specialized vacuum systems that you hook up to your cabinet. They suck out the dust that is floating around and filter it out into a dust collector. Media blasting cabinet dust collectors can be a little expensive for most hobbyists, costing more than the cabinet usually, so it is common to build your own. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">DIY Dust Collection:</span></b><br /><br />I use an improvised dust collector made from an old vacuum cleaner. A shop-vac would be better and quiter but I had an old vacuum on hand and I like re-purposing things that I have already. If you have neither, go with the <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-WD1450-14-Gallon-6-Horsepower-Vacuum/dp/B001MBADFI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468393676&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=rigid+vacuum&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f270f7122983b28d5ff2f2d75f5f9806">s</a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-WD1450-14-Gallon-6-Horsepower-Vacuum/dp/B001MBADFI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468393676&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=rigid+vacuum&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f270f7122983b28d5ff2f2d75f5f9806">hop-vac</a></b>. I personally believe Rigid Shop-Vacs are superior to all others and make sure, whatever brand you get that it has a 2" hose. There are 2 issues with using a vacuum or a shop vac. The first one is that they are way louder than a specialized blast cabinet dust collector. When I know I will be blasting for long periods of time, I wear ear plugs as its one of those sounds that kind of gets in your head after a while. <br /><br />The other issue is that the shop vac filters were not designed to catch small blasting particles. Some of the dust particles produced from blasting are smaller than your filter can actually filter so they go into the motor. These particles will quickly ruin the motor. The particles that don't flow right through the filter will quickly clog the filter which leads to cleaning the filter after every half hour of blasting which gets very tedious. So my current method is a pre-filter before the vacuum. It is a water bong type of filter. It uses a 5 gallon shop vac and hoses and tubes left over from previous vacuums. Here is a very crude drawing of how it works:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBD0XC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B006ZBD0XC&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n7CP27pEMjg/UfIZRV_tibI/AAAAAAAAA_g/wAYEwqCdGAA/s1600/DUST+COLLECTOR.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sandblast cabinet diy dust collector" border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n7CP27pEMjg/UfIZRV_tibI/AAAAAAAAA_g/wAYEwqCdGAA/s640/DUST+COLLECTOR.bmp" title="sandblast cabinet diy dust collector" /></a></div><br />The idea is that the as the media is sucked through the first hose, it is pointed directly downwards toward the water where it will get trapped, but the air can still pass up to the hose connected to the vacuum. It works surprisingly well and extends my filter cleaning periods from 30 minutes to a week. But now cleaning the filter means scraping out wet sludge out of the bottom of the bucket, filling back up with water and putting back into use.<br /><br />Quick instructions on what how I made this. I save vacuum parts like the hoses and tubes because I have found several times when they served to be useful.<br /><br /><b>MATERIALS NEEDED:</b> <br /><b></b><br /><ul><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1LUFK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=03c57dff21f5248d9a8b228fac9dc6fe" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1LUFK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=03c57dff21f5248d9a8b228fac9dc6fe" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UxGrnwu1BkI/V75nntrEFTI/AAAAAAAACzI/-Wkr_2kOSy0JhFNBA6vcDRBEgzRPGllPQCLcB/s200/31wFO19cOfL.jpg" width="150" /></a><li>2 vacuum hoses(a vacuum or shop vac should have 1 already)</li><li>1 tube that fits inside the first hose(I used the extension tool that comes with vacuums, cut to length, pvc pipe would work also.</li><li>1 something to angle the 2nd tube towards the wall of the bucket(I used another vacuum tool here, the little brush attachment that is for cleaning upholstery, I just cut off all the bristles)</li><li>5 gallon bucket with tight fitting lid</li><li>caulk </li></ul><br /><b>STEPS:</b><br /><br /><ol><li>Cut 2 holes in the lid of a 5 gallon bucket. I just traced the outside diameter of each vacuum hose onto the bucket lid and cut it the holes using a Dremel. If you have hole saws the same size, great, use those. </li><li>Insert hose end into bucket lid, I cut mine out so it would fit pretty tight. I then sealed both sides of the lid with caulk. Do the same with the other hose end.</li><li>Attach 1st hose to a hole in the cabinet. My cabinet already had a hole in it for for this purpose and it also had a block off plate since the cabinet didn't come with a dust collector. I originally cut a hole in the block-off plate and sealed the other end of the hose to the plate. This meant that the bucket lid was permanently attached to the cabinet though so I later changed this to a removable design. </li><li>Wait for caulk to dry so you can handle the lid.</li><li>Insert extension tube into 1st hose and cut it off about 4 inches from the bottom of the bucket.</li><li>Insert angle vacuum attachment onto other hose</li><li>Fill bucket with water just below the tube(if the tube is going directly into the water, it can cause a vacuum so strong that it will crush the bucket)</li><li>Hook up 2nd vacuum hose to vacuum.</li><li>Your blast cabinet will need some type of breather to allow air in, otherwise the negative pressure tends to suck the gloves right off of the cabinet. My cabinet had a 2nd hole in it for whatever reason along with a block off plate. I just removed the plate and taped a Scotchbrite pad to the open port to prevent media from flying out.</li><li>Optional: If you use a shop vac, you can skip this since a shop vac is already pretty compact. A regular vacuum is pretty bulky in my garage. I took all the unused stuff off the vacuum: the handle, the entire bottom section with the wheels and brushes and other random pieces. Now it fits with the bucket underneath my cabinet near the back so it takes up no room.</li></ol><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b5UKQOLfAdE/UfId7Qo-wsI/AAAAAAAAA_w/GjET7Fq4dg0/s1600/sandbalster+dust+collector.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting cabinet diy dust collector" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b5UKQOLfAdE/UfId7Qo-wsI/AAAAAAAAA_w/GjET7Fq4dg0/s640/sandbalster+dust+collector.png" title="sandblasting cabinet diy dust collector" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b>A Better Alternative to DIY Blasting Cabinet Dust Collection:</b></span><br /><br />A much less labor intensive alternative to the "water bong" setup above is a Dust Deputy and it works better as well.&nbsp; These are very commonly used in home shops for dust filtration. They are designed to hookup to a standard shop-vac and catch all of the small dust before it reaches the vacuum.&nbsp; In other words, they are designed for exactly this purpose.&nbsp; This will be much more reliable than the "water bong" and it is also much easier to clean out.&nbsp; The Dust Deputy can be ordered <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JP315K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002JP315K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=DQEQM3RZNVUOBACI">here</a></b> but you will need your own bucket, modify the lid, and pick up an extra shop vac hose. For a ready to go kit, they offer <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-AXD000004-The-Dust-Deputy/dp/B002GZLCHM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468389220&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dust+deputy&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=43ad088d8c5f42b43b96b3fce387e2f9"><b>this</b></a>. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JP315K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=9e284dd6c9e88d26d560a19a1700c5aa"><img alt="sandblasting cabinet diy dust collector" border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1_rk0GlWBBk/V75nnl6pCtI/AAAAAAAACzM/VEEkf8BK1jU0o-rq4XxGsWnhNz_rdvB6wCEw/s320/51zqC3AFnjL._SL1004_.jpg" title="" width="254" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002JP315K" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jamaj2msvH8/V4XV-nUuO5I/AAAAAAAAChk/vAJu_mSCE0kYsyaN3ui11SVB_dQtibc2wCLcB/s1600/sandblast%2Bcabinet%2Bdust%2Bfiltration.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jamaj2msvH8/V4XV-nUuO5I/AAAAAAAAChk/vAJu_mSCE0kYsyaN3ui11SVB_dQtibc2wCLcB/s640/sandblast%2Bcabinet%2Bdust%2Bfiltration.JPG" width="476" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />For conveniences sake, I attached a power strip to the sandblasting cabinet to plug the vacuum and lighting into.&nbsp; With the switch on the power strip, I can turn everything on and off as easily as if it were built in.<br /><br /><br /><br />With these adjustments and modification, even a cheap cabinet like the one I use can work great. However, if you want one set-up out of the box, complete with lighting and a dust collection system, this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002LGM5ZO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=UQG37UJALCPPGTX5"><b>110 Gallon Cabinet</b></a><b> </b>cannot be beat.&nbsp; It is literally the best deal I have seen for a complete cabinet of this size with all of the high-end features.&nbsp; <br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002LGM5ZO" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=31dca9b6cca817dbb3f4d865dfd16ab6" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="perfect sandblasting cabinet for diy powder coating" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KX6xt6zmZT8/V75mal5NAzI/AAAAAAAACzA/npS_SvcJGkw9y7Phe18xrsSiwi7QQuF0wCEw/s400/71nAZfY6dwL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="340" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span> <br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Media Blasting Outside or in a Blast Room</b></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/FIA-SB9002-Universal-Sandblast-Hood/dp/B0045I5H06/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=565a686f3b0d1e524b37d9bbfc758f38" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandbalsting hood" border="0" height="158" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CncOJKWxl_Q/V75maROSjYI/AAAAAAAACzA/SfWoT0gc3fsuWMhPLXWm_4oa3PGlQCdggCEw/s200/41Elz78GV%252BL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>Lets say you are a little bit more serious and have a large powder coating oven big enough to do subframes, axles housings, etc. Parts like this would need a huge blast cabinet so that is the point where you may want to take your blasting outside or set up a dedicated media blasting room.<img alt="" border="0" height="1" hidden="" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=li3&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0045I5H06" style="border: medium none; display: none ! important; margin: 0px;" width="1" /><br /><br />To do blasting outside, you need to protect all of your skin, your eyes, and your lungs. Long sleeves and long pants will be fine to cover up your skin. For your face and eyes, <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045I5H06/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0045I5H06&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">you need a sandblasting hood</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0045I5H06" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, and I never blast outside the cabinet without a<b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;adid=12SWYJ1XVS54C6SGSCX0&amp;ref-refURL=http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html&amp;ref_=as_sl_pc_tf_lc&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=56809942b1f0623ad4f7abc35b0e128f">respirator</a></b>. Make sure you avoid using sand whether blasting in a cabinet or outside. Blasting with sand is dangerous for your lungs and there are much safer alternatives.&nbsp; <br /><br />If you plan on media blasting at more than a hobbyist level, like everyday at work, you may want to look into a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Breathecool-Supplied-Fresh-Respirator-System/dp/B00GAFDBJG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468389802&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=supplied+air+system&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0915acd33761b1f84355a0d75e1fb8c0">supplied air breathing system</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000FN6PKQ" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />. With this, there is a small compressor that supplies air that is "safe for human consumption". You place the compressor in an area that can take in clean fresh air. It pumps the air to your mask for you to breathe. This is also the only way to ensure you are protecting your lungs when painting with 2k automotive paints.<br /><br />Now that you are suited up and ready to blast safely, I recommend setting up your blasting area on a large tarp. This serves as a clean place for your used media to land while your blasting. Once your bucket or pressure pot of media is empty, you can sweep it up and pour it back in to get more use out of it. Just make sure you filter the media. I use a window screen folded over itself a couple times.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1gKLB2aiOi8/V4Xc0YQ-qgI/AAAAAAAACh8/bhQpGNkgEYc8WZzE1IgzJgGB6KvAtW8CwCLcB/s1600/sandblasting%2Boutside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1gKLB2aiOi8/V4Xc0YQ-qgI/AAAAAAAACh8/bhQpGNkgEYc8WZzE1IgzJgGB6KvAtW8CwCLcB/s640/sandblasting%2Boutside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />If you are in a professional environment, or just have a really big garage, you can setup a dedicated blasting room for large parts. This works out basically the same as blasting outside, except your media is contained in the room. <br /><br />That sums it up for setting up your media blaster / sand blaster. It is really a great tool to have and once you have one, you will wonder why you didn't have one all your life.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-1560185098514647102013-01-14T14:29:00.000-08:002017-03-11T14:50:13.631-08:00Media Blasting<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" gi1hekd="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><div style="text-align: right;"></div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6STDbykfvQI/VY-OKf80wyI/AAAAAAAACAc/ZeNhwS5FweE/s1600/IMAG0923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasted alternator cover" border="0" height="179" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6STDbykfvQI/VY-OKf80wyI/AAAAAAAACAc/ZeNhwS5FweE/s320/IMAG0923.jpg" title="sandblasted alternator cover" width="320" /></a><b>Media blasting also known as Sandblasting is a great preparation method for Powder Coat. . When powder coating, it is very important for the item you are coating to be completely clean of oils, dirt, paint, rust, corrosion, and damaged plating (zinc, nickel, chrome, etc). All of these things can interfere with the powder coating process causing imperfections in the finish or causing it to fail completely. After cleaning your item of all oils and dirt, a Media Blaster does this job very well and very easy compared to other methods. </b><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" gi1hekd="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>You can see the before and after of sandblasting below. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7sCHcI0YVM/VLtLpZTG8EI/AAAAAAAAB5o/6cDMTqG9V40/s1600/IMAG0986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting brake master cylinder powder coating" border="0" height="179" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7sCHcI0YVM/VLtLpZTG8EI/AAAAAAAAB5o/6cDMTqG9V40/s1600/IMAG0986.jpg" title="sandblasting brake master cylinder" width="320" />&nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qx-jfjn7-3U/VLtLpZElbKI/AAAAAAAAB5s/aWx4IDX_vYQ/s1600/IMAG1008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sandblasting brake master cylinder powder coating" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qx-jfjn7-3U/VLtLpZElbKI/AAAAAAAAB5s/aWx4IDX_vYQ/s320/IMAG1008.jpg" title="sandblasting brake master cylinder" width="176" /></a></div><br /><br />Another advantage of using a sandblaster to prep your items for powder coating is it gives the item a surface profile or "tooth". Think of sanding a piece of metal with sandpaper and you see the thousands of little scratches that it leaves. These scratches create high points and low points in the metal. This is called a profile. A profile allows the powder coat to seep into all of these high and low points which allow it adhere to the part much better than if the metal was completely smooth. While sandpaper does give your item profile, the sanding marks are in straight lines, a sandblaster creates a uniform textured finish all over the entire surface of your part, and in places that no sandpaper can reach. Without a surface profile, powder coating can just peel off the surface, this is called delamination. <br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002LGM5ZO" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><center>Pretend this picture is a microscopic view of a powder coated surface and decide which surface would allow the coating to adhere better.</center><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0IqjlMLDT8/UMLnX3xtqYI/AAAAAAAAA9M/7ft8Yv33rWQ/s1600/smooth%2Bsurface%2Bvs%2Bprofile.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sandblasting media blasting profile tooth adhesion" border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0IqjlMLDT8/UMLnX3xtqYI/AAAAAAAAA9M/7ft8Yv33rWQ/s400/smooth%2Bsurface%2Bvs%2Bprofile.png" title="" width="328" /></a></div><br /><br />A sandblaster is usually gun shaped and it uses high pressure air to propel sand or other media. When this media hits the metal, it can knock off rust, scale, dirt, paint, or other coatings giving you a clean bare metal surface. This sandblasting gun can be placed inside of a sealed cabinet to contain all your media and allow you to reuse it. This cabinet is&nbsp; called a blast cabinet. There are also free standing sandblasting guns that can be used anywhere, but with these, you must wear some protective gear. <br /><br /><br />To use a sandblaster, you will need an air compressor to supply you with this high pressure air, and a sandblaster consumes a lot of air so you will need a decent sized compressor. To see what kind of compressor you need or to see if your compressor is up to the task, take a look at "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.VY3Lg1I72KV" target="_blank"><b>Choosing an Air Compressor</b></a>"&nbsp; Many sandblasters out there state that you need at least an 2 stage 80 gallon air compressor that puts out at least 15cfm@90psi to sandblast. Air compressors are not cheap, even used, so while a huge compressor like that would be ideal, you CAN make due with a smaller compressor. The general rule is to buy the most compressor you can afford, but if you can only afford a 5 gallon pancake air compressor, keep saving! I personally use a Husky 60 gallon air compressor that puts out 11cfm @90psi which is enough to blast continuously, however the I do stop to give the compressor breaks.<br /><br />Sandblasting also requires very dry air from the air compressor.&nbsp; Otherwise the media mixes with the moisture and causes frequent clogging.&nbsp; Another downside to this is, is that when powder coating, you want your part to be perfectly clean after sandblasting.&nbsp; If you are blasting with oily, moisture laden air, then this will likely cause defects in the finish.&nbsp; See <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html" target="_blank">How to Dry Compressed Air</a></b> for more info on this. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Siphon Feed or Pressure Pot Sand Blaster? </span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />As far as sandblasters go, there are 2 main types: "Siphon Feed" and "Pressure Pot". A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3f67b564c017e2e3a353c4da83324a44" target="_blank"><b>siphon feed </b></a>sandblaster <img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=am2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000NPUKCU" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />generally looks like a gun, it can have a trigger or a foot control pedal. The gun has 2 connections. One is an air supply line from your air compressor and the other is a media pick-up hose which is a larger diameter hose that you can stick in a bucket of media. As the air passes through the sandblast gun, it uses a venturi effect to suck the media through the media hose and force it out of the nozzle of the gun. This style of sandblasting gun is cheap and gets the job done.&nbsp; Another great thing about these sandblasting guns, is you can stick the pick-up tube in baking soda and use it soda blast.&nbsp; It is not quite as efficient as a dedicated soda blaster, but I have used it to soda blast 100<b> </b>pounds of nuts and bolts with no problems.<br /><br /><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UfgFmuEU2I/WMRPbD9X8iI/AAAAAAAADAY/lsbncvkKHJUSwJzMgBSx0-0tyv3xRV6kgCLcB/s1600/Skat%2BBlast%2Bsandblasting%2Bgun.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8UfgFmuEU2I/WMRPbD9X8iI/AAAAAAAADAY/lsbncvkKHJUSwJzMgBSx0-0tyv3xRV6kgCLcB/s200/Skat%2BBlast%2Bsandblasting%2Bgun.jpg" width="200" /></a>This <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3f67b564c017e2e3a353c4da83324a44">Skat Blast Sandblasting Gun</a></b> is the gun in my cabinet.&nbsp; This is the best sandblasting gun I have used and it is worth the price. The long handle makes it very comfortable to use since it requires very little effort to keep it depressed. It also feels more powerful than cheaper sandblasting guns and makes quicker work of sandblasting jobs.&nbsp; It comes with a steel nozzle, but after it gets worn out, I recommend using <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=5e9f6b45143f942743319b6eb7350b0c">ceramic nozzles</a></b> as they last much longer, or even better would be a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=b08ce777938543650986e6de5e17aa64">carbide nozzle</a></b> as it will last a very long time.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />There are different versions of the gun and nozzles available for different air compressors:<br /><br /><b><u>Air Compressor Output</u>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; <u>Gun</u>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <u>Nozzle</u></b><br />4-9 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N2WB4JL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266424&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=skat+blast+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fb05e768b07534cefae29e640853df2b">S-35 Small</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01N0UZ6T6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489261223&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e6a0e19c1b5b02e4e3450b6605f397d6">Small Ceramic</a><br />10-15 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Trigger-Operated-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N8U6NG3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489261223&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=fbe795fe44d166298aee1174b2d9365f">S-35 Medium</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Medium-Ceramic-Sandblasting/dp/B01N3UX22D/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4f8f51a5b8e250f558c66ed0aca03bfa">Medium Ceramic</a> / <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Blasters-Sandblasting-Cabinets/dp/B01N9163UJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489255990&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=555ffda8692d5bcfa89f3e8d017b5328">Medium Carbide</a><br />20-25 CFM &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Operated-Sandblasting/dp/B01MU32FYM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489260801&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=skat+blast&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=3be3b9e103a8d1a9a34efa8c98ed50b6">C-35-S Large</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Ceramic-Nozzle-Sandblasting/dp/B01NANBC3V/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266758&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=99b5202f128c2f4bac4ba1e844aed63c">Large Ceramic</a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <br />25+ CFM &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Foot-Pedal-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B01NH08KBD/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01NH08KBD&amp;pd_rd_r=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&amp;pd_rd_w=Rr7me&amp;pd_rd_wg=GAKnk&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AKG6E4SGDAPES3XSMMAJ&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=cf7da74d8728c9aa6749467cd58197e3">High-Volume Gun</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Skat-Blast-Hi-Pro-High-Power/dp/B06WP4YW8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489266828&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=skat+blast+nozzle&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8bc2d8ff00ced4698a3657f57343eefb">High-Volume Head</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />I also have a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007D30DO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=0b3c16945de6ea53913d178b96934274">Campbell Hausfeld gun</a></b> as a backup gun.&nbsp; It is cheaper but it seems to make the entire sandblasting process take longer.&nbsp; With all things being equal, the Skat Blast gun just finishes jobs quicker than the Campbell Hausfeld gun. The trigger is also much shorter on the Campbell Hausfeld gun so it requires more effort to depress it. After sandblasting for awhile, it is noticeably less comfortable than the Skat Blast gun.&nbsp; That being said, it is still a good gun for the price. It comes with its own media tube so you can use it inside of a blast cabinet or you an stick the tube in a bucket of media and use it anywhere. It also comes with a ceramic tip which lasts much longer than steel tips.&nbsp;&nbsp; However, if you plan on sandblasting on regular intervals, I highly recommend the the Skat Blast gun instead. &nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Galllon-Sand-Blaster-Ceramic/dp/B00C3MIO7O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472148331&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=pressure+sandblaster&amp;refinements=p_72:2661618011&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=adc9d9b0312b5aa25f11d562cfb0885e" target="_blank"><b>pressure pot blaster</b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B006RNWKMK" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></a> generally looks like a propane tank with legs. It has a lid on top to pour media into and a smaller valve on the bottom where the media exits and goes to your sandblasting nozzle. The air supply from your compressor actually goes to the tank and to the valve at the bottom. This way the media is pressurized.&nbsp; This way the media is being forced out of that valve at the bottom and then the other air line is forcing that media + air to your sandblast nozzle.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Galllon-Sand-Blaster-Ceramic/dp/B00C3MIO7O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472148331&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=pressure+sandblaster&amp;refinements=p_72:2661618011&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=e3be30fe552ddfa62445a38d5d8551b3" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="pressure pot sandblaster" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sfxs69YjquI/V78z2J59GMI/AAAAAAAACzg/nUIkbTDyOeofkkOchkGKFpZK8RkXprnCACEw/s200/41HTaUy5gFL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>A pressure pot blaster is more efficient than a siphon blaster. It uses less air and blasts about 4 times faster than a siphon-fed blaster. If you have a big job to do with a lot of surface area, a pressure pot is the way to go. However, they are more of an "outside" or in a "blasting room" tool. Once the tank runs out of media, you will have to either add new media, or sweep up the media on the ground and pour it back into the tank. If you recycle your media like this, make sure you filter the media somehow. I have a piece of widow screen that I folded over itself to make it filter more finely. A small rock can clog the machine.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Sandblasting Cabinet:</b></span><br /><br />Now that you understand the types of blasters, there are several environments where you can do your blasting. Blasting is a messy process. It creates lots of dust that will coat an entire garage, it throws media everywhere, and the media that hits tends to sting a little. Blasting can also be dangerous, a powerful blaster can take off skin. Media bouncing back at you can cause damage to your eyes, and the dust can damage your lungs, especially if using sand as your blasting media. So keeping that in mind, you can blast outdoors with some <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00442XOKI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00442XOKI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=Z2N4WR2OK3DUUEXY" target="_blank">personal protection equipment</a></b>, you can dedicate an entire room to blasting which will also require protective gear, or you can use a sand blasting cabinet.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" ev80mp2="" gi1hekd="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=19f42dbd347a4c9e259e9895b9909f55" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sandblasting cabinet with light and media reclaimer vacuum" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yeKVsGm7sB8/V78z2WiUe1I/AAAAAAAACzs/BYS0awcR8C0uima5i6P2kgBzQi95k7t7wCEw/s200/71nAZfY6dwL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="170" /></a></div>With a sand blasting cabinet, the blasting process takes place inside a completely enclosed box. There is a window for you to see what your doing and long heavy duty gloves that are sealed to the front of the cabinet. The cabinet has a grate that you will place your items to be blasted on, and below that is an area for the blasting media to fall down into. Blasting cabinets are usually paired with siphon feed guns. The media falls through the grate to the bottom of the rack as your blasting, the media pick up tube is positioned down in the base of the media and the other end connects to your gun. This way you can blast endlessly and your media is constantly recycled. You will need good lighting to see what you are doing and also some type of dust collector. As you are blasting, the media will brake down into finer and finer dust which constantly floats around making it very hard to see. The dust collector will suck this fine dust out of the cabinet which increases visibility. There are purpose built dust collectors and there are some DIY methods such as hooking up a shop vac to the cabinet.&nbsp; The easiest method is to buy a <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LGM5ZO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B002LGM5ZO&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=YLD3MRJOICXUPNTZ" target="_blank">quality sandblasting cabinet that comes with a dust collector and lighting</a></b>.&nbsp; The sandblasting cabinet pictured comes with everything you need to start blasting and it roomy enough to do wheels and other large parts.&nbsp; There are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Capacity-Floor-Cabinet/dp/B0094GCX8S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468392356&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blast+cabinet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f88e2f81e4dc010fe9d82f84da1a0b20" target="_blank"><b>cheaper sandblasting cabinets</b></a> available if you do a little DIY work.&nbsp; The cheaper cabinets usually need sealed up with caulk and some kind of DIY dust collector will need to be implemented.&nbsp; Read how to setup some DIY dust collectors in "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html" target="_blank"><b>Media Blasting Part II</b></a>"&nbsp; If you have the room in your garage, I recommend a stand alone blast cabinet over the bench top blast cabinet. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><br />Here is a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Portable-Bench-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B0028PH5YE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472148135&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blast+cabinet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=97c43928fd8582550fff2ef49e6cb351" target="_blank"><b>bench top sandblasting cabinet</b></a>. They are smaller, and don't have the funnel on the bottom that lends to easy media changes. However they can sit on a bench in the garage, taking up less room.&nbsp;&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Portable-Bench-Sandblast-Cabinet/dp/B0028PH5YE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472148135&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blast+cabinet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=9aa4fb45be825b5bc3bd2700c53ab7d6"><img alt="bench top sand blasting cabinet" border="0" height="168" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZK2IMRj8O9M/V78z2Xd9QyI/AAAAAAAACzo/hy9Eu6Uej1A-JLkriDLc4iH1wFTcdKo-wCEw/s200/71sa9uwN2XL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004O9GZL6" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">What Media to Use?</span></b></div><br /><br />There are many type of medias to choose from when blasting. Having the ability to blast opens up a lot of options in the garage, not just for powder coating. For now, I will talk about the type of media that you want to use for powder coating prep. <br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXAUQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=23579c56e17c9cea6a586bec9f15b157" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating sand blasting media black diamond" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ha2s8BwGvnM/V78z2AHgAQI/AAAAAAAACzk/m3nSz3AgLPM5-YriutAiGxTEVva6ausSQCEw/s200/41-wuCvV2KL.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXAUQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0000AXAUQ&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=SF37SAZUHYE2TJHU" target="_blank"><b>Coal slag</b></a>: This media is very cheap, it leaves a good profile, and it lasts a pretty long time. It is great at stripping paint and rust very fast. Examples of coal slag is the popular brand: Black Diamond, its sold at Tractor Supply Company. 50lbs is about $7. <br /><br /><br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKEWHG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000VKEWHG&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20">Aluminum Oxide</a></b>: This is a very aggressive media that easily removes rust, paint, and is more efficient at removing powder coat than the coal slag. It is pricier, but it lasts longer. This leaves a great profile in a steel or iron part to be powder coated. If you are doing any ceramic coating, you must use aluminum oxide to prep.&nbsp; Although when blasting aluminum, you need to be careful not to leave too much of a profile, as aluminum is much softer than steel. Hold the gun back further and lower the air pressure.<br /><br /><b>Sand</b>: Sand is the cheapest. You can get a bag of play sand from Home Depot for next to nothing. However, sand is very dusty, making it almost impossible to see in the cabinet. Sand also produces silica dust when blasting which can severely damage your lungs even when using a cabinet.&nbsp; The only safe way to use sand is with a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Breathecool-Supplied-Fresh-Respirator-System/dp/B00GAFDBJG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468389802&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=supplied+air+system&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=862365f807c49e4095e9e69958d619cb" target="_blank">supplied air breathing system</a></b>. <br /><br />To continue reading about media blasting, click here: <b><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html">Media Blasting Part II</a></b><br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " ev80mp2="" gi1hekd="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-80097764577826029142012-12-03T21:43:00.001-08:002016-08-25T11:41:43.603-07:00How to Properly Ground Your Parts<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Improve the attraction of powder to your parts while powder coating.</span></b></div><br />If you are powder coating a metal part, it should be grounded. The grounding is what attracts the powder to the part. The better the ground, the less problems you have, especially when doing multiple coats. Often a <a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/11/getting-into-powder-coating-equipment.html">powder coating gun</a> or the guns control box will come with a little 18 gauge ground wire and a mini alligator clip that you can connect to your part to ground it. I will call this the "stock" ground. The stock ground continues through the control box, through the wire it uses to plug into a wall outlet and after that is a mystery to me. This is not a good example of a ground. No matter how good of gun you have, you should have a DEDICATED GROUNDING ROD. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HdsAt5HHttM/VZRVj7E5LmI/AAAAAAAACFI/K5-vThN__J8/s1600/grounding%2Brod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Powder Coat grounding rod" border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HdsAt5HHttM/VZRVj7E5LmI/AAAAAAAACFI/K5-vThN__J8/s640/grounding%2Brod.jpg" title="Powder Coat grounding rod" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a name='more'></a><br /></h3><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">What are the advantages of using a grounding rod when powder coating?</span></b></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Faraday Cage Areas:</b></span><br /><br />Using this ground method helps with a phenomenon called faraday cage areas. Faraday cage areas are areas of your part that get electrically shielded by a more prominent area of the part.&nbsp; These areas are usually recesses or tight corners.&nbsp; You will notice them when you are spraying powder at a part and no matter how much powder you spray, the powder will not go into one of these areas.&nbsp; All of the powder is attracted to the larger, more open surfaces next to this area.&nbsp; Having a proper ground like the grounding rod will significantly reduce these problem areas and allow these areas to attract the powder more easily. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><b><span style="font-size: large;">Multi-Coats:&nbsp; 2nd, 3rd, 4th... Coats:</span></b><br /><br />After you have sprayed your first coat of powder and cured it, you may want to another coat after this, whether it be clear, a candy, or any other coat.&nbsp; This is another area where the grounding rod will help.&nbsp; That first coat of powder acts as an electrical insulator covering the entire part.&nbsp; It is insulating the ground that attracts the powder.&nbsp; This causes the following coats to fall right off of the part UNLESS the ground is sufficient. &nbsp; The strong ground that is provided by the grounding rod will attract powder even through coats of powder.&nbsp; This will not be accomplished by the tiny gauge wire that came with your powder coating gun.&nbsp; Mutli-coats are much easier after a properly installed grounding rod is connected to your part.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">So What is a Grounding Rod?</span></b></div><br />A ground rod a long bar copper coated bar that gets driven into the ground. The sizes vary, but for the powder coating application, I recommend an 8ft or a 10ft bar. &nbsp; It can be bought at your local Home Depot or Lowes for $10.00, see:<b> <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_70860-28781-70860_0__?productId=3446270">Lowes Grounding Rod</a></b>. The ground rod gets hammered into the ground almost entirely. You want to leave about 6 inches of the rod protruding above the ground to attach the wire to. You then attach this wire to your parts and your parts are now grounded with a very strong ground.<br /><br />While you are out buying the grounding rod, you should also buy a grounding clamp, this is a clamp that fits around the rod and has a bolt to attach your wire to. Like this:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFXJ4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=2b96ddda9f5f21cba45e613bc316abd0"><img alt="Powder coat dedicated grounding rod clamp" border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9hMxOdpVWk/V787EnHMIxI/AAAAAAAACz8/VmoiFtjlgOMDi_OwC_tE8HkNOzUnF4VOgCLcB/s200/81WV9uiC35L._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="172" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B005GDFXJ4" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />You will also need a length of wire to connect your grounding rod to where you hang your parts.&nbsp; <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-111002-Electrical-Battery-8-Gauge/dp/B000NV2DPG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472149418&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=8+gauge+wire+black&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=671ee6718d7322e3615f2b7d161bc6b7"><b>8 gauge wire</b></a> is the recommended size as long as you are not running the wire long distances.&nbsp; If you need a long distance run, then it would be best to opt for a larger wire size to reduce resistance.&nbsp; Although you want the shortest wire and the least amount of connections possible to make sure you have a reliable ground. If you plan on powder coating in your garage or shop, you can actually drill a hole in your garage floor using a masonry bit, and hammer the grounding rod through the garage floor down into the ground below. If you no longer want it in the garage, just pound it the rest of the way down and fill the hole up. <br /><br /><br />What I did was install the grounding rod right outside my garage door, I put an upside down flower pot on top of it to keep anyone from tripping on it, don't want to get sued by the guy who checks my electrical meter. The ground rod has a foot of lead wire with a little quick disconnect plug. I coated the ground rod and connection with some <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=a8367576d44792d7286f761efe776760">dielectric grease</a></b> to prevent corrosion. Then on my rack I have a 9 foot long wire that I just connect to to the grounding rod wire via the plug. It takes less 10 seconds to plug in and is very convenient. On my rack, the wire runs up the side and over to the middle and it is soldered to my "master hook". I hang everything from this hook and it has worked very well. Testing with a multimeter has confirmed the resistance from the ground rod to the part hanging on the rack is 0.&nbsp; Once your grounding rod is set up, you no longer need the "stock" ground clip that came with your powder coating gun.&nbsp; Just coil it up and put it to the side.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><center></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RA3TkVQilAw/UMBgKteZeHI/AAAAAAAAA8U/0YZov7fXnm8/s1600/grounding%2Brod.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coat Grounding Rod" border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RA3TkVQilAw/UMBgKteZeHI/AAAAAAAAA8U/0YZov7fXnm8/s400/grounding%2Brod.png" title="Powder Coat Grounding Rod" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the ground rod and lead wire outside my garage door.&nbsp; I hammered it down more since then and only about 3 inches is protruding from the ground.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><center></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9_TM-ae_F3Y/UMBgXjlyLzI/AAAAAAAAA8g/l8kIN6sE6v4/s1600/rack.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coating Rack" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9_TM-ae_F3Y/UMBgXjlyLzI/AAAAAAAAA8g/l8kIN6sE6v4/s400/rack.png" title="Powder Coating Rack" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My old powder coating rack setup. I have since switched to a powder coating booth with 8 gauge wire.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><center></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4r-Itjq2RMA/UMBg7k7XoFI/AAAAAAAAA84/nYaY9nbUwrE/s1600/rack%2Bcloseup.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coating Rack" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4r-Itjq2RMA/UMBg7k7XoFI/AAAAAAAAA84/nYaY9nbUwrE/s400/rack%2Bcloseup.png" title="Powder Coating Rack" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the wire running up the rack and is soldered to the hook.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><center></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl5JyBSCNbs/UMBgwXOz2SI/AAAAAAAAA8s/u9c4qSLfqTM/s1600/master%2Bhook%2Bcloseup.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Powder Coating Rack" border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl5JyBSCNbs/UMBgwXOz2SI/AAAAAAAAA8s/u9c4qSLfqTM/s400/master%2Bhook%2Bcloseup.png" title="Powder Coating Rack" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I soldered ground wire directly to the hook which minimizes resistance.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Now that you have seen a proper grounding rod setup, set one up yourself.&nbsp; It is worth it! I noticed improvements immediately.&nbsp; 2nd coats sprayed on like they were the 1st coat.&nbsp; Faraday Cage areas were minimized to only the tightest areas. <br /><br />One more thing to add about the grounding rod.&nbsp; If you live in a dry environment with dry soil, you can improve your grounding rods performance by wetting the ground around it before powder coating.&nbsp; I live in Florida, where the dirt is more sand than anything so I just keep a gallon of water next to the garage door.&nbsp; Before I powder coat, I just dump the water all around the base of the grounding rod.&nbsp; Give it a couple minutes to soak down into the soil.&nbsp; This improves the grounding rods connection to the actual ground.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-42244075118701898132012-12-03T19:29:00.002-08:002016-08-25T11:49:41.746-07:00Monitor Temperatures using an Infrared Thermometer<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />Having consistent and accurate oven temperatures is very important when powder coating.&nbsp; Knowing what temperature your part is at when it is in the oven is essential.&nbsp; I will be talking about how to do this using an infrared thermometer.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=01953da8e89f9d60c54b5ffe4ff54217" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating part metal temp ir thermometer" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iS5mB4rBqAw/V788lzunkDI/AAAAAAAAC0I/Sz79fyEZtjoTAHtsQzNb1bt-TOHOoi_sgCLcB/s320/61yBqbWi7XL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="222" /></a>An infrared thermometer, also called IR thermometer, also called&nbsp; IR Temp Gun can measure the temperature of an object without actually touching it.&nbsp; They display the temperature on an lcd screen.&nbsp; They also usually have a laser pointer to help you accurately read temperatures. I'm sure you can see how a tool like this would be helpful when powder coating.&nbsp; In case you don't see the importance, take a look at this scenario to see how great these tools can be:&nbsp; You just finished spraying your powder on your part, and you stick it in the oven. Lets use an example cure schedule of 400 degrees F for 10 minutes(your powder will specify your cure schedule). So you have the part in the oven, you shut the door and you set the temperature for 400 degrees. You DO NOT start the 10 minute timer when you shut the oven door. The 10 minute timer starts when the entire part itself has reached 400 degrees. The easiest way to tell when your part has hit 400 degrees is with an infrared thermometer.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><b><span style="font-size: large;">How to read the Temperature of a Part in the Oven:</span></b><br /><br /><br /><br />Lets learn how to use this tool.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The simplest way is to simply set the temp on your oven, and when you see that your oven is up to temp, that is when you can start checking with the IR thermometer.&nbsp; I simply open the door every couple minutes to take the temp, and adjust the oven temperature accordingly.&nbsp; When the part is at my desired temperature, that is when I start the timer.&nbsp; I check the temp about 4 times in a 10 minute long cure.&nbsp; However, opening the oven door does allow some heat to escape from your oven, which changes the readings that you just took.&nbsp; This is why its important to not leave the oven door open for a minute, just open the door quickly, get your IR thermometer in there, check the temperature, and shut the door.&nbsp; Just make sure not to burn yourself, it is a hot oven after all.&nbsp; Also make sure not to accidentally hit the part with the IR thermometer.<br /><br /><br />When you first start using the IR thermometer, you will probably be checking the temperature every 30 seconds, don't worry, that is normal.&nbsp; You will learn as you go along how the temperature behaves when dealing with different sizes and different types of metal.&nbsp; The bigger the part, the longer it will take to get up to temp. Iron and steel will take longer to heat up than aluminum. A small part such as a bolt can be up to temp in 30 seconds, a larger part like a wheel can take 30 minutes to get up to the 400 degree temperature. Your ovens efficiency will also have an effect on this, so if you ever change ovens, be sure to check the temperature more often until you learn your new oven. <br /><br />Sometimes larger parts will heat up inconsistently, you will want to take your temp in a couple different spots to make sure the entire part is up to temp. It is not uncommon to have one side of a part 50 degrees off from the other side of the part.&nbsp; A convection oven helps reduce this affect a lot.&nbsp; If the side of your part closest to the heating element is getting up to temp way faster than the rest, you can put a metal shield over your heating element which will help your oven heat more evenly. If your heating element is on the bottom of your oven like mine, you can just sit a cookie sheet on an oven rack at the lowest position.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Reflections can confuse an Infrared Thermometer</span></b><br /><br />While these IR Temp Guns are very convenient for powder coating, they do have one setback. When you using a highly reflective color like chrome or even a full gloss color, it can skew your readings. The best method to overcome this is to try to find an object with about the same mass and same material as the object you are coating and stick it in the oven with it. The object should be non-reflective, say flat black. Now you can take the temperature of the similar object and use that to estimate when you start your timer.&nbsp; This can be impossible sometimes depending on the size of your oven.&nbsp; For example, you wouldn't be able to fit another wheel sized object in the oven with a wheel in a household oven.&nbsp; What I would do in this case is a test run.&nbsp; Before I spray any powder on the wheel at all, I will put it through an oven cycle.&nbsp; I media blast all my parts before powder coating. The blasted surface has a flat, non-reflective surface, perfect for accurate temperature readings.&nbsp; I simply place the blasted wheel in the oven, set the temperature like I was curing it, and time how long it takes the wheel to reach the desired temperature.&nbsp; Now that I know how long it takes, I just start the oven up and add that time to the cure time, plus a couple minutes for good measure.&nbsp; <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><b><span style="font-size: large;">Distance affects Accuracy:</span></b><br /><br />Not all IR Thermometers are built the same. The further away you get from the part, the less accurate they will be. This is called the "Distance-to-Spot ratio" or "Optical Resolution". The further away your ir thermometer is reading, the larger the area it is reading. If are trying to take the temperature of a small bolt in an oven 10 feet away, even though your laser is pointed right at the bolt, you are actually taking the temperature of the entire interior of your oven. When you are shopping for an IR Thermometer, you will see it say something like "Optical Resolution - 12:1.&nbsp; What this means is that at a 12" distance, your ir thermoter is reading a spot that is 1" in diameter.&nbsp; Every 12" further you get away from your part, the size of the reading increases by 1".&nbsp; At 48", your reading is 4" in diameter.&nbsp; Think of the ir thermoter giving off a cone shaped beam that spreads out the further away it gets.&nbsp; This will help you accurately use it.&nbsp; This picture probably explains it better than I can:<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aXn37_djI/UgWRE7FIozI/AAAAAAAABLM/UBnYNsrN5oI/s1600/FLUKE-B000MX5Y9C-3-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="ir thermometer optical resolution" border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aXn37_djI/UgWRE7FIozI/AAAAAAAABLM/UBnYNsrN5oI/s320/FLUKE-B000MX5Y9C-3-sm.jpg" title="ir thermometer optical resolution" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shows the optical resolution of an Infrared Thermometer.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>If your bolt is only 1/4" wide, you need to be as close as possible to take an accurate temperature. This is why I mentioned not to accidentally hit the part.&nbsp; When measuring very small parts like bolts, it is important to forget where the laser is pointing and focus on what the actual lens is seeing. &nbsp; The optical resolution of an IR temp gun is usually the price driving factor. Meaning, the cheaper the IR temp gun you get, the closer you need to get to take your temperatures.&nbsp; Try to find the highest ratio, the higher the number, the further away you can be and still be accurate. 12:1 is about average for the $100 range temp guns. <br /><br />Now that you know how important these tools are for powder coating.&nbsp; One thing about these Infared Thermometers, is they are considerably cheaper online.&nbsp; There a few big box stores that do carry them, but there is a huge price mark-up on them.&nbsp; You can pay $80 for a no-name brand one at Home Depot, or you can go online and pay the same for the a Fluke mentioned right below here. <br /><br /><br />If you want an extremely high quality infrared thermometer, Fluke is a very trusted name.&nbsp; I would recommend the <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B008EW837S&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=LTD6CS26WTBNDE3L" target="_blank">Fluke 62 Max+</a></b>.&nbsp; It has a 12:1 Distance-to-Spot Ratio and it has dual lasers so you know exactly what area you are reading.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EW837S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=01953da8e89f9d60c54b5ffe4ff54217"><img alt="powder coating part metal temp ir thermometer" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iS5mB4rBqAw/V788lzunkDI/AAAAAAAAC0I/JzTx1pXF2e4H7OZIW9xpDZMQxaU7VA82gCEw/s200/61yBqbWi7XL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="139" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B008EW837S" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />If you are on a budget, here is an infrared thermometer that still has great reviews, but won't break the bank and still reads at 12:1:&nbsp; <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVHIJDK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00CVHIJDK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=YGWHMAHHFXNKYQOU" target="_blank">Nubee Infrared Thermomter</a></b><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVHIJDK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=9fc2d6ccc531bdec2fb98f43f7fac08d"><img alt="powder coating part metal temp ir temp gun" border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RRyXPali0aQ/V788l1hv9WI/AAAAAAAAC0M/Rr-_vPn7FOsReuaJAjCgMHflkgnYr-BHwCEw/s200/71yJC%252Bh84qL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="114" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00CVHIJDK" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.allqa.com/IR.htm"></a> On top of being very useful for powder coating, these IR temp guns are useful in the kitchen, around the house, and working on a car.&nbsp; If you have never used one before, you will find yourself pointing it at everything.&nbsp; They are the type of tool that once you have it, you will never want to be without one. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Timer:</b></span><br /><br />Another essential tool to curing your parts in the oven is very simple: a Timer.&nbsp; It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just as long as it actually works.&nbsp; I personally use an app on my phone. <br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-32213394891744016992012-12-03T18:38:00.001-08:002016-10-03T00:48:07.383-07:00Materials you can Powder Coat<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><b>Powder coating can be used to coat many types of materials. The most common material is metal, but you can also powder coat wood, plastic, composites, glass, and MDF. The first consideration for coating objects besides metal, is can it withstand the temperature. Most plastics will melt when subjected to 400 degree heat for any length of time so it is important to research exactly what your object is made of before you try to powder coat it. </b><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oq6L0E4gCiA/UfRWZJinwlI/AAAAAAAABCk/CqZYAFjp1nA/s1600/IMAG0797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating glass " border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oq6L0E4gCiA/UfRWZJinwlI/AAAAAAAABCk/CqZYAFjp1nA/s400/IMAG0797.jpg" title="powder coating glass" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This glass vase was powder coated red for Valentines Day.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;How can you powder coat non-metallic items when they aren't electrically conductive?</h3><br />When powder coating metal, the powder is electro-statically attracted to the metal as long as it is grounded. Well your average plastic, wood, or glass object is not electrically conductive. If you try to spray powder on them, the powder will just fall off and end up on the ground. The solution to powder coating these items is pre-heating. You can heat up the object in the oven, remove the object and powder coat it before it cools.&nbsp; When the powder hits the heated part, it will slightly melt on contact, causing it to stick. After coating the entire part like this, you then place the part back in the oven and cure it like normal.<br /><br />&nbsp;Something you must watch out for when powder coating a pre-heated item is that it is very easy to put on too thick of a coating.&nbsp; Because the powder is melting as soon as it hits the part, it makes it difficult to judge how much powder is on the part.&nbsp; If a coating is too thick, it can run like paint, it can show craters, and the chip resistance will suffer.&nbsp; A similar method is called hot-flocking. This method involves heating the part up to the cure temperature of the powder(usually 400 degrees F), removing the item from the oven and immediately spraying with powder. The powder will melt and flow out instantly, using this technique greatly increases the chances of too thick of a coating however.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" ws79l6a=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><br />The ability to coat several types of materials is something that is not very well-known but it allows you to apply the same beautiful finishes that can with metal, to many other objects.&nbsp; Next time you are feeling creative, grab a glass from your cabinet, mask off some neat designs, and see what you can come up with.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br />Powder coated wood by The Powder Coating Institute. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vgNq1A95BuQ/VZRk3AuVpOI/AAAAAAAACFY/B1T_-ZbZZvs/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Bmdf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vgNq1A95BuQ/VZRk3AuVpOI/AAAAAAAACFY/B1T_-ZbZZvs/s400/powder%2Bcoating%2Bmdf.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" ws79l6a=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Bottom of article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="6112127938" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 90px; width: 728px;" ws79l6a=""></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-84211978994846559892012-12-03T01:05:00.000-08:002016-08-31T05:44:28.254-07:00Powders<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />Powder is one of the most difficult parts of the whole process, choosing one that is. There are literally thousands of different kinds of powders in different colors, textures, and gloss levels. Then add in the fact that you can mix powders(Beginners, don't do this yet!) and do multiple coatings to achieve even more looks. It is baffling, I spend a huge amount of time selecting colors.&nbsp; If you would like to know some reputable websites to purchase powder from, check out my <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/where-to-buy-powder.html#.UhxlbuWWnrR" target="_blank">recommendations</a>.<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><br /><br />Lets get in to the different types of powders, below refers to how or what the powder is actually made out of:<br /><br />1.<b> EPOXY</b> - These types of powders are very impact resistant and are used when corrosion prevention and adhesion is needed the most. But, they can not be exposed to sunlight as they are not uv stable. They are best left indoors, under the car, or on factory equipment. In the sun, the epoxy coatings develop a whitish haze and eventually look like crap. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins bmwwcvr="" class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>2. <b>POLYESTER</b>(Urethane and TGIC)- These are the most common powders, chances are, your powder will be polyester or a blend of polyester. They hold up great outdoors in the elements and have good all-around characteristics. <br /><br /><br />3. <b>ACRYLIC</b> - This is mainly used for clear coats. An acrylic clear powder coat will be very smooth and more clear than a clearcoat made of a different type of powder. Also has very good chemical resistance. <br /><br />4. <b>FLUOROPOLYMER</b> - These have the best outdoor characteristics of all the powders, mainly used for outdoor industrial coatings, most of the powders you will be able to order in small amounts will not be a fluoropolymer. <br /><br /><br />Types of powders from a visual standpoint:<br /><br />-Regular Solid Colors (covers all of the regular colors in all of their different gloss levels)<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001EDUFD4" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></div><br /><br />-Chromes(the most reflective types of powder, but the name can be misleading, while it shares the same characteristics as Chrome of being silver and very shiny, it will not actually look like real chrome plating. To me, this is not a bad thing, if you want the chrome look, either polish it(if your on a budget) or have it chromed. The chrome powder coat still has a beautiful and unique look. The downside to chrome powders is they all have to be clear coated. They are made up of actual aluminum flakes to give them that metallic shine. After they are cured, they will oxidize very fast leaving a terrible looking finish similar to bare aluminum if left unprotected. Clear coating the chrome prevents the oxidation from happening. Clear coating adds an extra step and it takes away the amazing look of the chrome powder coat but it is a necessary evil. The reason this happens is the clear top coat affects the way the light shines off of the chrome, instead of seeing the chrome reflection, you are seeing the clear reflection. Acrylic clear coat is best for minimizing this effect but no clear is invisible. <br /><br />Chrome can also be used as a base coat for other colors, especially candy colors.<br /><br />Here is an example of Black Chrome on a set of brake lines done by me:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zIkjXePN_k/ULxlzO49OsI/AAAAAAAAA60/EUpMH4kTx3c/s1600/black%2Bchrome%2Bbrake%2Blines.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black chrome powder coat brake lines" border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zIkjXePN_k/ULxlzO49OsI/AAAAAAAAA60/EUpMH4kTx3c/s400/black%2Bchrome%2Bbrake%2Blines.png" title="black chrome powder coat brake lines" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />- Candy colors: These come in many colors and they get their effect from being translucent.To achieve the candy look, the part must have either a chrome or silver powder coat base coat or have an actual chrome plated or polished finish . <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001EDUFE8" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> <br />Here is a wheel coated with a candy powder coat called Shocker Yellow from Prismatic Powders.&nbsp; The base coat used was Super Chrome Powder Coat:<br /><a href="http://www.powdercoatingit.com/"></a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1hceV9ZGRIE/VqCZP2uAKGI/AAAAAAAACXU/P04uWb9N80A/s1600/powder%2Bcoat%2Bguide%2Bcandy%2Byellow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1hceV9ZGRIE/VqCZP2uAKGI/AAAAAAAACXU/P04uWb9N80A/s400/powder%2Bcoat%2Bguide%2Bcandy%2Byellow.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins bmwwcvr="" class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div>- Veins &amp; Wrinkles: These powder coats actually provide a physical texture that you can see and feel. These textures can only be done using powder coating. They come in many colors and many types of textures. Besides adding the unique textured look, they can offer functionality where grip is needed. The texture actually can provide traction. <br /><br /><br />Here is an example of a Black wrinkle powder coat on an BMW M3 valve cover done by <a href="http://renewedfinishes.com/">Renewed Finishes in Pennsylvania</a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa55/deeewuuu/PowderCoating085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coated bmw valve cover black texture" border="0" src="http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa55/deeewuuu/PowderCoating085.jpg" height="133" title="powder coated bmw valve cover black texture" width="200" /></a></div><br />- Clears: Clear powder coat can provide a 2nd layer of protection to your powder coated pieces. You can also enhance the look using a clear powder coat. It gives some colors more depth, especially gloss black when top-coating it with a high gloss clear. Clears are available in different gloss levels and some have added metallic flakes, this allows you to make very unique colors that wouldn't normally be available. For example, black chrome looks great as is when it is glossy, but adding a flat or semi-gloss clear gives it a more subtle modern look. <br /><br /><br />An example of black chrome and semi-gloss clear courtesy of <a href="http://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/">Bonehead Performance in PA</a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://boneheadperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/black-chrome-semi-gloss-clear-150x200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black chrome powder coat flat clear" border="0" src="http://boneheadperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/black-chrome-semi-gloss-clear-150x200.jpg" height="200" title="black chrome powder coat flat clear" width="150" /></a></div><br />This company has an amazing color sample wall, you can see almost every powder coat color that exists on their metal bottles, check out the pictures on their site.<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com92tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-4875511965509581422012-12-02T14:29:00.002-08:002017-02-20T22:18:04.006-08:00Powder Coating Ovens<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " goyxiyv="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />To powder coat, you will need some type of oven in order to cure the powder coating.&nbsp;&nbsp; You will need an oven that is capable of sustaining 450 degrees and your parts have to fit inside of it. I will explain some of the cheaper types of ovens that are easy to get your hands on here.<br /><div 0px="" style="display: block; float: left;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" goyxiyv="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script></div><br /><br />There are 4 types of ovens that are cheap enough to start with: a toaster oven, a household oven, harbor freights 110v(regular outlet) oven, or a propane grill.&nbsp; The oven is one of those things where the price goes up gradually with the size until you pass household oven and then the price jumps to thousands. An oven you could fit 4 wheels or a bike frame is around $2,000. If you want to an oven that will fit a car, your looking at $10,000 to $20,000.&nbsp; You can however, find some used large powder coating ovens on eBay from time to time.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>BUILD YOUR OWN POWER COATING OVEN</b></span><br /><br />The absolute cheapest way to a large powder coating oven is to build one yourself.&nbsp; If you would like to see complete step-by-step instructions to build your own powder coating oven like the one below, check out our article "<a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VBmS-OW6PxU" target="_blank"><b>How to Build a Powder Coating Oven</b></a>" and <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html" target="_blank">Part 2</a></b>.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TQR5tV6sw38/VAbDco6XNYI/AAAAAAAABY4/GzNXwKRKdjE/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="building powder coating oven" border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TQR5tV6sw38/VAbDco6XNYI/AAAAAAAABY4/GzNXwKRKdjE/s320/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven%2Bbuild%2B2562.JPG" title="" width="212" /></a></div><br /><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;">POWDER COATING OVENS FOR BEGINNERS</span></h3><h3><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h4><span style="font-size: large;">Toaster Oven</span></h4><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004USWRA4" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXSR486/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=4036b720995b817d896d89d2773f01b1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating largest toaster oven" border="0" height="144" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0-njIKQfzuY/V78-1fw8yZI/AAAAAAAAC0g/hojns_tIIvMVO3FCxsjIhMetNtqUsPt1wCLcB/s200/71bmkFoLVoL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>If you want to start powder coating this week, a toaster oven is the perfect type of oven to start out with, also good if you know you are only going to be powder coating small items. They are cheap, readily available, heat up faster than a household oven and use less electricity. They take up less space and they can operate off of a normal 110 volt outlet so you can plug it in anywhere.&nbsp; If you want the absolute largest toaster oven out there, check out the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXSR486/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=d8cf230795aceb240686daf79067bc22">Oster TSSTTVDGXL-SHP Extra Large Digital Toaster Oven</a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004USWRA4" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />.&nbsp; This is the toaster oven that I was planning on buying but instead, decided to just go straight to a household oven.&nbsp; If you want to use a toaster oven though, the Oster is the one to get. It is ~16" wide x 13" deep and it bows out in the back to make it a little bigger.&nbsp; Highly recommended as far as powder coating toaster ovens go.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b><br /></b> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Household Oven</b></span> <br /><br />I found my personal oven in the Craigslist free section but it took awhile. If you have $100, you have the option of basically any used oven on Craigslist in the appliances section. You don't really need any fancy features, except a timer and the oven has to be able to keep the temperature in check. Whatever oven you use for powder coating, should be one that you will never again use for food. That goes for the toaster oven and the grill also.<br /><br />The downside to a household oven is that they need their own 240v outlet/circuit. Unless you have one in your garage already, you will need to have one installed or install it yourself. There are guides all over the internet, like this <a href="http://www.diyadvice.com/diy/electrical/fixtures/adding-a-volt-receptacle/">one</a> teaching you how to install it and it is pretty straightforward. You really only need a few parts such as a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q230-240-Volt-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N5HJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472152057&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=30+amp+breaker&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=7c508c14e3abc0c6b32f51ddfdd60beb">breaker</a></b> specific to your breaker box, some <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/SouthWire-63948421-3WG-Wire-25-Foot/dp/B000BP7X8G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472151948&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=10/3+wire&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f496663a2cc04873c24a104e894f0779">10/3 wire</a></b>, and <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-WD1212-125-Volt-Surface-Receptacle/dp/B000FPDO7G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472152270&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=stove+outlet&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=cd9e52655982edf70296e7f497e7e655">240v receptacle</a></b>. However, it is a job that can KILL YOU. Electricity is no joke and something to respect. An improper install can also lead to a fire. Keep that in mind when you are choosing between doing it yourself or calling an electrician. I did do it myself, never having experience with home electricity, and I'm still alive and my house is still standing, but I was extremely careful and spent an entire day making sure it was right, after spending an entire day researching it. You can also use a gas oven, just keep in mind of a cloud of powder has the potential to be flammable, so powder coating in an enclosed room with no ventilation, right next to your gas oven is a practice that should be avoided. Shield your powder coated part from any open flame and never spray the part while it is in the oven.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pregnant Oven</span></b><br /><br />For those needing a bigger oven, you can make what is called a "pregnant oven" . This is when you make an add-on extension to add on to your existing oven. Usually the oven door is left open and a box with an open side rests on it and seals against the oven opening to make a larger oven. <br /><br />Here is an example of a temporary Pregnant Oven setup made using cheap insulated panels and foil tape. materials. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0sB2IBM3a6s/UKe6uPQh9PI/AAAAAAAAA6U/YOJx2lrThcQ/s1600/PregnantOven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating pregnant oven extension " border="0" height="268" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0sB2IBM3a6s/UKe6uPQh9PI/AAAAAAAAA6U/YOJx2lrThcQ/s400/PregnantOven.jpg" title="" width="315" /></a></div><i>NOTE:</i> This is a "do at your own risk" type of thing. Please use caution when modifying any oven. <br /><br />You can modify an existing oven such as a double oven. If you cut the center out of a double oven, you will have a pretty good size oven. They are also not too expensive on Craigslist. <br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b>PROPANE GRILL</b></span> <br /><br /><br /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Char-Broil-Classic-6-Burner-Gas-Grill/dp/B00365FHG8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472151143&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=propane+grill&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=323d4fe839a638506234ca2459e3adcd" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating propane grill oven" border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oTwoaeoGm7o/V78-1ThNFtI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/w893MppJbAIsr01knBVBV8Rc6NsMe5dgQCLcB/s200/71K9bFERepL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a>This is a less conventional method. In fact, when I searched for others doing it, I found none. I tried using the propane grill for one reason. I was researching toaster ovens but hadn't bought one yet, my powder coat gun arrived in the mail, and I had to try it out right then. I didn't have an extra house oven, but I had a grill I never used in my backyard. It worked great, I put a cookie sheet down on the grate to shield the part from the flames, and made a rack using a gutted computer tower to fit inside the grill. All of my parts came out with no issues. However, with a grill, you have to babysit it the whole time to keep the temperature correct. I stood there with my infrared thermometer for the complete cure time, anytime the temp would move, I had 3 knobs to turn to get it back to the right temp. I became very good at this eventually. Once I ran out of propane, I decided to find a home oven. The grill worked, but I would use it as a backup. Same warnings apply as the gas oven, you are dealing with an open flame and flammable powder.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhIQnaXb8ko/UKe5TBYaGzI/AAAAAAAAA6I/4JosdeZJVlk/s1600/grill.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coating rack for small oven" border="0" height="204" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhIQnaXb8ko/UKe5TBYaGzI/AAAAAAAAA6I/4JosdeZJVlk/s320/grill.png" title="" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powder coated parts cured in a grill.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">HARBOR FREIGHT POWDER COATING OVEN</span>&nbsp; (This oven was discontinued unfortunately)</b><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPc8tOzDuY/VZOonhEbvZI/AAAAAAAACDk/gpMwybiJIhw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="harbor freight powder coating oven discontinued" border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPc8tOzDuY/VZOonhEbvZI/AAAAAAAACDk/gpMwybiJIhw/s1600/powder%2Bcoating%2Boven.bmp" title="" /></a><br />This is an oven sold at harbor freight specifically for powder coating. The nice thing about it is that it is a lot bigger than any toaster oven, yet it plugs into a normal outlet. The inside dimensions of this oven are 18"x18"x18". In comparison, a household oven averages around 23" wide x 19" deep x 15" tall. This oven from harbor freight is considered to be very good quality and also has 5 star reviews. This oven was discontinued at Harbor Freight, but you can still find them used if you search hard enough.<br /><br /><img border="0" src="http://www.lduhtrp.net/image-7209741-10863227" height="1" width="1" /><br /><br /><br /><b><br /></b> <b><br /></b> <b><br /></b> <b><br /></b> <b></b><span style="font-size: large;"><b>INFRARED LAMP</b></span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PI524/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=412a12f032bdc089c65b26094fa688fa" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="powder coating infrared lamp ir light" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cuLWy7-2y08/V78-1UeIVPI/AAAAAAAAC0k/jgyo9w_jkUcNOYzdu7MwZMrl4LZreaseQCEw/s200/61-phEzTQsL._SL1500_.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>Another way to cure your powder coated items is using a infrared curing lamp. This would be another solution to coating a large part without having a large oven. The down side is you must build some kind of enclosure around the part to keep the temperature high enough.&nbsp; The part will will not reach the desired temperature or heat evenly in open air.&nbsp; Also these infrared lamps can be expensive and they can only cure 1 side of a part at at time.&nbsp; If you were powder coating a cube, you would have to reposition the lamp 6 times to cure all sides. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0015PI524" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></div><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Bottom of article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="6112127938" goyxiyv="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 90px; width: 728px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br />Now that you have seen the types of oven you can use to start out with, I will show you the types of&nbsp; huge ovens that a powder coating shop might use: <br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B007N6H32C" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.spraytechsys.com/images/img_pwdr/PwdrOvens/Vintage-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="huge powder coating oven" border="0" src="http://www.spraytechsys.com/images/img_pwdr/PwdrOvens/Vintage-5.jpg" height="280" title="" width="400" /></a></div><br />The next article talks about all of the different types of powders.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/powders.html">Click</a> to go there now!<br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " goyxiyv="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-48002073027914327482012-11-16T21:30:00.000-08:002017-09-08T16:47:54.708-07:00Powder Coating Guns<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div arybe3c="" bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " fi7fcgh="" gmg18tq="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="http://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-15eXt8ors3w/VY4056pmi4I/AAAAAAAACAE/GkcOM3Xdl2A/s1600/optiflex%2Bquadrat%2B0016%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Professional powder coating gun" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-15eXt8ors3w/VY4056pmi4I/AAAAAAAACAE/GkcOM3Xdl2A/s320/optiflex%2Bquadrat%2B0016%2B%2528Medium%2529.jpg" title="Professional powder coating gun" width="320" /></a><b>If you are completely new to Powder Coating, I recommend that you start off by getting a beginner Powder Coating Gun.&nbsp; These are priced at less than $200. After you have that, you can try it out and see if its something you want to pursue. This post will talk about some good powder coating guns you can start out with, but first take a look at some of the other equipment and supplies supplies you will need.</b> <br /><br /><br /><b><i>Clicking the links will take you to the appropriate article on this site</i></b><br />Powder coating gun - Read about them below in this post.<br /><ol><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/beginner-ovens.html">Oven</a></li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/powders.html">Powder</a></li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/objects-you-can-powder-coat.html">The object to be powder coated</a></li><li><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/10/choosing-air-compressor.html#.U6Qf2UB6HrQ">Air Compressor</a> (Unless you use the Craftsman powder coating gun)</li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">No-contact Infrared Thermometer </a> </li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/ir-thermometer.html">Timer</a></li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">Grounding Rod</a></li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">Media Blaster</a>&nbsp;</li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/stripping-powder-coat.html">Powder Coat Stripper</a> - for WHEN you mess up.</li><li><a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html">Degreaser &amp; Soap</a></li><li><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html">Masking supplies</a>: plugs, high-temp tape, blue painters tape, etc.</li><li>Denatured Alcohol</li><li>Lots and lots of powder-less gloves</li><li>Respirator</li><li>Pre-treatment processes (iron phosphate, zirconium phosphate, zinc phosphate, zinc electroplating, zinc galvanizing) </li><li>Head over to the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/p/store.html" target="_blank">Recommended Supplies</a> area to see exactly what you may need to powder coat.</li></ol><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><script type="text/javascript">amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true"; amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "powcoathecomg-20"; amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "manual"; amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; amzn_assoc_region = "US"; amzn_assoc_title = "Powder Coating Guns: These are my picks for guns under $1000. "; amzn_assoc_asins = "B006ZBCZNS,B006YVF2HU,B00WYACEJO,B00SGACMXO"; amzn_assoc_linkid = "de8eaf5e444c26bb46231a8b27845749"; </script><br /><script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script><br /><h3><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Powder Coating Gun</b></span></h3><br />The powder coating gun serves the purpose of spraying powder and adding an electric current to the powder so it is attracted to the metal part. The amount it charges the powder is measured in KV/kilovolts (1,000 volts = 1 kilovolt). Cheap guns have a preselected KV and more expensive guns allow you to choose. Powder coating guns range from $60 airless powder coating guns to $4,000 for the professional powder coating setups like Wagner, Nordson, and Gema.&nbsp; If you already have a powder coating gun, make sure you are using the <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/05/how-to-spray-powder-coat.html" target="_blank"><b>correct spraying techniques</b></a>.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins arybe3c="" bmwwcvr="" class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" fi7fcgh="" gmg18tq="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /></div><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Craftsman Powder Coating System: (No Air Compressor needed)</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>I will start with the cheapest possible gun to get you coating. It is the <b><a href="https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&amp;ipn=icep&amp;toolid=20004&amp;campid=5337386189&amp;mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FCraftsman-Electric-Powder-Coat-Spray-Gun-Metal-Tin-Finisher-17288-car-boat-paint-%2F331237705568%3Fhash%3Ditem4d1f4e4760%3Ag%3A-fcAAOSws65Tof~p" target="_blank">Craftsman Powder Coating System</a></b>.&nbsp; You can see my full review here:&nbsp; Craftsman Powder Coating System Review<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&amp;ipn=icep&amp;toolid=20004&amp;campid=5337386189&amp;mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FCraftsman-Electric-Powder-Coat-Spray-Gun-Metal-Tin-Finisher-17288-car-boat-paint-%2F331237705568%3Fhash%3Ditem4d1f4e4760%3Ag%3A-fcAAOSws65Tof~p"><img alt="craftman powder coating gun review" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dxLNvrSharE/V8Ep2Py2ayI/AAAAAAAAC1A/bQj_c3H_SDoQGGdz69XkRS3hvE_mjO03ACEw/s320/81kJZ2Ti5ML._SL1050_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B004YEAYCW" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />The Craftsman gun is the only powder coating gun that does not require an air compressor. If you are interested in this gun because you don't have a compressor, also see <a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/alternatives-to-sand-blasting.html">Alternatives to Sandblasting</a> since you would need an air compressor to do any sand blasting.<br /><br />For the beginner, this Craftsman powder coating gun performs well and is cheap enough to let you know if you would like to pursue powder coating. This was the first gun I bought and I used it to produce a lot of very nice finishes:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lZLpKfBXm8/UKby2S46B0I/AAAAAAAAA50/JzJXSXtHEns/s1600/caliper.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="powder coated brake caliper red" border="0" height="257" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lZLpKfBXm8/UKby2S46B0I/AAAAAAAAA50/JzJXSXtHEns/s400/caliper.png" title="powder coated brake caliper red" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brake Caliper Coated with the Craftsman Powder Coating Gun</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br />I would call this gun under-rated. Powder coating forums will generally look down on it and it has some bad reviews because there is a part on the gun that breaks for even using a feather-lite touch. If you want to try out powder coating without spending much money, don't worry about that stuff. This gun has limitations, but the biggest limitation as a beginner will be your experience. The piece that breaks is a lock to hold the cup in, however it isn't really necessary. My cup has never fallen out even without the lock. <br /><br /><br />The gun is very easy to use. I do not suggest using the ground wire that comes with the gun, but instead using a stand-alone grounding rod (<a href="http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html">explained here</a>). The ground rod method should always be used instead of the guns ground, regardless of gun. <br /><br />The clear plastic cup has a couple issues: <br />-It does not hold much powder.<br />-The lid on the gun fits so tightly that if there is any powder on the lip, the lid will not tighten. First I use a spoon to scoop powder into the cup, trying not touch the sides, then I use a small paintbrush and just brush off any powder in the grooves on the lip before I tighten the lid.<br />-Before I had a compressor to blow the cup out with air, I used a pressure washer, and this cup is designed with so many unnecessary nooks and crannies that it is very difficult to clean even with that.<i> </i><br /><br />After you manage to get the powder in the cup, you simply slide the cup onto the gun, plug the gun in the wall, attach the grounding rod to the part you are coating and you are ready to go. There is a metal pin that sticks out of the middle of the gun that charges the powder, this pin will get coated with powder and lessen the efficiency of the gun so you remember to wipe it off when you see it covered. I use the same little paintbrush I mentioned earlier for this, just stick it in the hole and swirl it around. (If you decide to use a paintbrush for these tasks, make sure to keep it clean. I keep it in a zip-lock baggy when not in use and I blow it off before and after every use.) I know it seems like I mentioned quite a bit of defects about this gun, but really, after you get used to it, it works, and for the price compared to other guns, it works amazing. It comes with some plugs and a roll of high-temp tape, although you will need more than just these plugs very quickly.<br /><br />For those of you that have the Craftsman gun and have access to a 3D printer, a hero among us has created 3D printable cups.&nbsp; These cups are larger than the factory cups and they have a screw on fill port to add more powder.&nbsp; This allows you to avoid dealing with the extremely tight fitting factory lid. He also created a gravity feed hopper type cup that allows you to screw on powder containers.&nbsp; Here is the link: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:113313" target="_blank">Craftsman Powder Coating Gun Extended Capacity Cups</a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N6FbUqwQ3cQ/VpiKCl3uBvI/AAAAAAAACW0/F8Il8ueJWSE/s1600/Hoss_EC_powder_cup_with_funnel_preview_featured.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="craftsman powder coating gun bigger cup" border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N6FbUqwQ3cQ/VpiKCl3uBvI/AAAAAAAACW0/F8Il8ueJWSE/s400/Hoss_EC_powder_cup_with_funnel_preview_featured.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wFomra4JxuI/VpiKC7TsTsI/AAAAAAAACW4/h3NFIas1-uU/s1600/Hoss_SC_powder_cup_in_use_preview_featured.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="craftman powder coating gun bigger cup" border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wFomra4JxuI/VpiKC7TsTsI/AAAAAAAACW4/h3NFIas1-uU/s400/Hoss_SC_powder_cup_in_use_preview_featured.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />These next powder coating guns are still beginner guns but the main advantage compared to the Craftsman powder coating gun is that the powder containers screw directly onto the gun.&nbsp; There is no cup to fumble around with. For any of the guns below, you will need an air compressor.<br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Harbor Freight Powder Coating Gun</span></h4>The next price up is the <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html" target="_blank">Harbor Freight Powder Coating Gun</a>.&nbsp; I have never used this gun but I have found that all of Harbor Freights tools fall into one of two categories: Amazing Deal or Absolute Garbage and you can determine that by the reviews on their website. Considering this gun has a 5 star review, I would say it is a good powder coating gun for a beginner.&nbsp; If you are not close to a Harbor Freight, you can also get the gun on Amazon here: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Electric-Portable-Powder-Coating/dp/B006ZBCZNS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504903093&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=powder+coating+un&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=00bd5761c947ce505d793ceb5ba39d17">Chicago Electric Powder Coating Gun</a>.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBCZNS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B006ZBCZNS&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=RONPKO7IOQS424V3" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="harbor freight powder coating gun" border="0" src="http://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B006ZBCZNS&amp;Format=_SL250_&amp;ID=AsinImage&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;WS=1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20" height="293" title="" width="320" /></a></div>Harbor Freight also sells 4 different colored powders: matte black, red, white, and yellow. These are often very clumpy and require tons of sifting to get them to a usable consistency. &nbsp; The good thing about the powders is how cheap they are and if you dump the powder in the garbage, the container it comes in screws right onto the harbor freight gun. So save the containers, and you can fill them with any powder you want, just make sure you thoroughly clean the containers out. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><img border="0" src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-7209741-10863227" height="1" width="1" /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Eastwood Powder Coating Guns</span></h4><h4><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;</span></h4>The next is Eastwood's line of guns, they have a Hotcoat Starter and a<b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/12859-HOT-COAT-ELITE-KIT/dp/B006YVF2HU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504902999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=eastwood+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=1e993fd1e6c3dc0f8169d9767c9ccec3">dual voltage powder coating gun</a></b><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002XE4LNS" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />. You remember I mentioned adjustable KV (kilovolts) above, well the dual voltage gun offers you the adjustment of 2 different voltages which comes in handy when you are shooting 2 coats. Eastwood also sells there guns in a line of starter kits that come with plugs, tape, and assorted powder colors. They also come with Eastwood's instruction manual, a manual which you should ignore for the most part as there is some information in it that is flat out wrong and coaters have been asking them to change it for awhile now. The Eastwood powder coating gun is considered a step up from the harbor freight gun. <br /><br />Hotcoat Dual Voltage Gun: <br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002XE4LNS" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/12859-HOT-COAT-ELITE-KIT/dp/B006YVF2HU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504902999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=eastwood+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=1e993fd1e6c3dc0f8169d9767c9ccec3"><img alt="Eastwood powder coating gun" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oteSiimdW9M/V8Ep2OVTADI/AAAAAAAAC1A/9uRGmSagBrcmg8mwSAjU1kaAPTGkLgsuQCEw/s320/518osUl2WdL.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=powcoathecomg-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B002XE4LNS" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />This gun has 2 preset voltages for you to select. Normally you would use 2 different voltage settings when you are doing 2 separate coats, however both of the settings on this gun are low to begin with so the main advantage is that is has the higher voltage of 25kv to shoot larger parts such as wheels or sheet metal. All of the other above mentioned guns have around a 12-15kv setting that you cannot change. Basically the higher the KV, the more your powder will be attracted to the part, until you set it too high and the powder actually bounces off the part. An example of a high KV setting would be over 90kv. This gun is $160+shipping, comes with plugs, tape, powder, etc. and as far as you can go with a beginner gun. Eastwood has several more starter kits and they also sell a large selection of powders.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins arybe3c="" bmwwcvr="" class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" fi7fcgh="" gmg18tq="" hidden="" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;"><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Redline EZ-50 Powder Coating Gun</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">&nbsp;</span></h4></div>If you are interested in a mid-level gun now, check out the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-EZ50-Powder-Coating/dp/B00WYACEJO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472276600&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redline+ez50&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=1793f55f0dc713a1ff681c0c030d8e28"><b>Redline EZ-50</b></a>.&nbsp; It can be found for around $380 and is a very good gun for the price, miles ahead of the powder coating guns above.&nbsp; The voltage is completely adjustable up to 50 KV and does a lot better job with Faraday cage areas as well as <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.V8EpiK21iW_"><b>spraying multiple coats</b></a>. If you plan to charge money for your powder coating service, I would say this gun is the bare minimum.<span style="color: red;"> If you purchase a Redline EZ-50 gun and the power adapter does not have a ground prong, then the gun must be grounded using a<b> <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/7-grounding.html#.V8EpjK21iW9">dedicated grounding rod</a></b> using the alligator clip supplied with the gun.&nbsp; Without this gun being grounded to a grounding rod, there have been reports of it shocking the user. &nbsp; </span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-EZ50-Powder-Coating/dp/B00WYACEJO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472276600&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redline+ez50&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=1793f55f0dc713a1ff681c0c030d8e28"><img alt="Redline EZ 50 powder coating gun" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nhieBfi9j34/V8Ep2Jc6W4I/AAAAAAAAC04/8li9yQAlZog53gaDSnIFdZkIrhCjC6nEACLcB/s320/51j00MC4n%252BL._SL1000_.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h4><span style="font-size: x-large;">Hyper Smooth Powder Coating Guns</span></h4><br />The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACOLE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504913816&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=8812e223a1ec610daa424ef55f47f05d">Hyper Smooth 02</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACLEY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504913816&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=ceff5ffcac37cb4e1ace9e451272728e">Hyper Smooth 03</a> powder coating guns are pretty much the last rung on the ladder before moving onto professional-level guns.&nbsp; These guns are great for the serious hobbyist or a lower volume powder coating shop.&nbsp; The Hyper Smooth guns easily apply multiple coats, up to 15 coats according to some.&nbsp; If you select the DPW model, can shoot powder into very difficult Faraday areas. The transfer efficienty is also much better than the lower level guns.&nbsp; This not only means that you will waste less powder, it also means a cleaner shop as more of your powder will end up on the part and not in the air or on the ground.&nbsp; The Hyper Smooth guns are very similar and comparable to the Kool Koat guns sold by Columbia Coatings as they share the same electronics inside and come with the same actual gun.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACMXO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504913816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f7ea0c841ae29d9730b88d70a72533dd"><img alt="https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System/dp/B00SGACMXO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504913816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyper+smooth+powder+coating+gun&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=powcoathecomg-20&amp;linkId=f7ea0c841ae29d9730b88d70a72533dd" border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="600" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4CKIzW9Kv8/WbMLWtYxtpI/AAAAAAAADFg/vDmul9MoLlwsUMuNvnLyDeFXHzjrNx-wQCLcBGAs/s400/HS02_widemouth_edit.jpg" title="Hyper Smooth Powder Coating Gun" width="400" /></a></div><br />There are several versious available of the Hyper Smooth range:<br /><br />The main distinction is the 02 or 03 model and the difference between the two is that the 03 has a separate regulated auxiliary air-out line to connect to a fluidized hopper.&nbsp; A fluidized hopper is a type of hopper that has an air source connected to it and the air flow through the powder continually mixes and sifts the powder.&nbsp; The powder in a fluidized hopper is so fine that is resembles a liquid as it is&nbsp; moving around.&nbsp; Fluidized hoppers ensure that the powder you are spraying is as consistent as it can be with no clumps and an even distribution of all of contents of the powder.&nbsp; For the best powder coating results, a fluidized hopper is a must, and therefore the 03 model would be the one to go with.&nbsp; However, the 02 model will save you some money and you can still used a fluidized hopper, you will just need to construct your own hopper with a separate air source.<br /><script type="text/javascript">amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true"; amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "powcoathecomg-20"; amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "manual"; amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; amzn_assoc_region = "US"; amzn_assoc_title = "Hyper Smooth Powder Coating Guns"; amzn_assoc_linkid = "6038cac464dba3ed4426988e625178f9"; amzn_assoc_asins = "B00SGACMXO,B00SGACOLE,B00SGACPZE,B00SGACLEY"; </script><br /><script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script><br />Within the 02 and 03 range, there is the "LED" and the "DPW"models.&nbsp; The "LED" is the basic model while the "DPW" which stands for Digital Pulsation Wave, has a move advanced board that makes shooting Faraday areas easier. Below is a visual comparison of the 02 and 03, DPW and LED models.&nbsp; <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cyFR5YEYrg0/WbMojALEVlI/AAAAAAAADF8/qjZ3KiOy_fYMXpngmLKMl8C7BNvGlc44QCLcBGAs/s1600/Hyper%2Bsmooth%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Bgun%2Bcomparison%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1035" data-original-width="700" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cyFR5YEYrg0/WbMojALEVlI/AAAAAAAADF8/qjZ3KiOy_fYMXpngmLKMl8C7BNvGlc44QCLcBGAs/s1600/Hyper%2Bsmooth%2Bpowder%2Bcoating%2Bgun%2Bcomparison%2B2.png" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6PUeIOTZVc/WbMql497hNI/AAAAAAAADGI/W0stEkVUv8cqGKdb56jbOxipwMX_ABoaQCLcBGAs/s1600/powder-gun-kit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="772" data-original-width="1000" height="492" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6PUeIOTZVc/WbMql497hNI/AAAAAAAADGI/W0stEkVUv8cqGKdb56jbOxipwMX_ABoaQCLcBGAs/s640/powder-gun-kit.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />This article covers most of the beginner and intermediate guns but I will cover the professional guns ($3,000+) in later posts. <br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div arybe3c="" bmwwcvr="" class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " fi7fcgh="" gmg18tq="" hidden=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END -->Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com88tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-59255960861974775262012-11-16T17:02:00.001-08:002015-06-25T18:19:48.891-07:00What is Powder Coating?<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />First I will cover the very basics of what powder coating is.<br /><br />Powder coating is the process of applying a paint in the form of powder. Regular liquid type paints are pigments and binders suspended in solvents. Powder coating is solvent free so you are just using the dry pigments and binders. Once the powder is sprayed on your work piece, it must be baked from 350 to 400 degrees F for 10-20 minutes.&nbsp; Each powder has its own specific curing schedule and you should always that schedule when dealing with that particular powder. When the powder is heated, it melts into a liquid, connects together, cures, and once cooled, is dried to a hard, beautiful finish. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Top of Article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="1681928330" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script><br /><a name='more'></a><br /></div>You can powder coat almost any object that can withstand the cure temperature of the powder. It is the most common to powder coat metal, however, you can also powder coat composites, MDF, glass, and other items that will not be damaged when subjected to powder coating temperatures.&nbsp; <br /><br />Generally, when powder coating metal, the powder is given a positive charge when it leaves the gun and it is attracted to a grounded workpiece. Once the piece is fully and evenly coated, you carefully transfer it to an oven that can heat the powder to the specified temperature. The powder will melt, flow out, and then cure during this process. The usual specification for the piece is anywhere from 350 degrees F for 20 minutes to 400 degrees F for 10 minutes. <br /><br />Powder Coating metal serves a couple of purposes.&nbsp; The functional purpose is that it provides a barrier between the metal and the oxygen around it protecting it from corrosion.&nbsp; When it comes to iron or steel, this is very important to prevent rust. . However, if the powder coating is scratched, or chipped down to the bare metal underneath, rust can start in this spot.&nbsp; Media blasting a part before powder coating will provide a profile for the powder to adhere tightly to the part, this helps reduce the spread of rust underneath the powder coating after it is scratched and keeps it centralized to just the scratched area.&nbsp; You can read more on creating a profile <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html">here</a>. <br /><br />The aesthetic purpose of powder coat is that you can choose from an almost unlimited amount of colors, textures, gloss-levels, ect. Powder coat colors can be applied in multiple coats to achieve even more unique finishes.&nbsp; <br /><br />To learn the very basic steps of the powder coating process, check out my <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/simple-step-by-step-powder-coating.html">Step-by-Step Tutorial</a>. <br /><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style "><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><script async="" src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script><br /><!-- Bottom of article --><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1593268052380164" data-ad-slot="6112127938" style="display: inline-block; height: 90px; width: 728px;"></ins><br /><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6576346347573188227.post-35712690958081229022012-11-01T06:18:00.000-07:002016-10-03T00:54:30.116-07:00Powder Coating: Simple Step-by-Step<!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" nq3qwrz=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br />Here is a powder coating infographic that covers the very basic steps of powder coating. This is the most basic of the basics, but it serves to show you what order the steps should go in. Go to this article to see a much more thorough explanation of the preparation steps: <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuWX1I72KU" target="_blank">How to Prep for Powder Coating</a></b>.&nbsp; Below the infographic, you will find links that expand each step of the process. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><a name='more'></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="3324" scrolling="no" src="//e.infogr.am/How-to-Powder-Coat" style="border: none;" width="550"></iframe><br /></div><div style="border-top: 1px solid #acacac; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10px; padding-top: 3px; text-align: center; width: 550px;"><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">For more info on each of the steps listed above, you can find its corresponding article here on the site. Also check out the more thorough article, "<b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuWX1I72KU" target="_blank">How to Prep for Powder Coating</a></b>."</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 1: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/objects-you-can-powder-coat.html" target="_blank"><b>Picking out the part you want to powder coat</b>. </a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 2: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/cleaning-and-degreasing-is-step-1.html" target="_blank"><b>Clean your part</b>.</a></span> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 3: <a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuWX1I72KU" target="_blank"><b>Outgassing - explained in Step 4</b>.</a></span> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 4: Sandblast your part - <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/01/8-media-blaster.html" target="_blank">Sandblasting Pt 1</a></b>,&nbsp; <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html" target="_blank">Sandblasting Pt 2</a></b> &amp; <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/07/alternatives-to-sand-blasting.html" target="_blank">Alternatives to Sandblasting</a></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 5: Post- Sandblast Cleaning -<b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VYuWX1I72KU" target="_blank"> Explained in Step 6</a></b>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 6: Mask your part if needed - <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html" target="_blank">Masking Pt 1</a></b> &amp; <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html" target="_blank">Masking Pt 2</a></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 7: Spray part with powder coat using a <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/11/getting-into-powder-coating-equipment.html" target="_blank">Powder Coating Gun</a></b>. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 8: Bake part in an <b><a href="http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/12/beginner-ovens.html" target="_blank">Oven</a></b> for specified time. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Step 9 &amp; 10 are pretty self-explanatory. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stay tuned for the next article!</span></div><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> <br /><div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style " hidden="" nq3qwrz=""><a class="addthis_button_facebook_like" fb:like:layout="button_count" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_tweet" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_button_pinterest_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> <a class="addthis_counter addthis_pill_style" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a> </div><script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script> <script src="//s7.addthis.com/js/300/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-521c315825184b6b" type="text/javascript"></script> <!-- AddThis Button END --><br /><script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-1593268052380164"; /* Under Post Title */ google_ad_slot = "9365824737"; google_ad_width = 300; google_ad_height = 250; //--></script><br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script></div>Sean Castlehttps://plus.google.com/104450469718714729760noreply@blogger.com15