Once you release the top panel from those clips, it will pull forward slightly. Then you lift the front of it up a couple of inches so you can disconnect the door switch harness connector, which will be right in front of you as you lift the top panel up. Once this is disconnected, replacing the lid switch can be performed on the top panel while it is out of the machine. This is somewhat easier than removing the whole cabinet as with freestanding models.

wow that top of the washer part kinda does like some of these newer dryers. Yes AJ the pic you posted I clicked on and it gets large enogh to view. That is cool. If it is your timer with a burnt contact then the washer should do in other cycles.

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We don't care at this point about the timer motor, do we? You said the motor itself woudn't run. It would be good to see if the timer were sending power to the motor before you write the timer off as bad. Perhaps there's just a burnt or loose common wire at the motor.

with that front panel off you can check out the pump too and see if anything got into it to make the unit quit.

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May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL