Is Location of Electric Water Flexible?

I'm toying with the idea of moving my electric water heater from one place in the basement to another. It seems to me that as long as I tie into main lines, so to speak, the location shouldn't really better. I'm thinking about creating space for other stuff, and relocating a potential noise source (an as yet undelivered add-on dhw heat pump._.) There may also be some benefit for faster hot water realization upstairs. What do you think?

Years ago at a different house, I was in the same scenario as you. I had a chance at a full size brunswick pool table (3-piece slate bed) and accessories for $250. Understandably, the water heater was moved! Only concern I had was that it was being placed farther from the bathroom and closer to the kitchen. I don't remember having to let the water run a long time for hot water to show up in the mornings...and I'm sure I would have heard about it if that was the case!!

Floor drain considerations for the over pressure/temp valve?
We have a GeoSpring and I think a lot about how best to use it to capture waster heat or to provide cool dry air in the summer. I've come to the realization that it would be nice to be able to operate it differently depending upon whether the whole house is in heating versus cooling mode.
I was thinking in the Summer the GeoSpring air inlet could pull air from the 1st floor and exhaust it to the basement; increasing HP efficiency, cooling the 1st floor, and drying the basement.
In the winter both intake and exhaust would connect to the basement.

Hi, Tying into the hot water line to move the heater to a place that you like better gets my blessing. Keep in mind the length of run to the 1st use, place of greatest need. I made a correction in the Hot line, slightly longer time for hot water to the dishwasher. If that's no problem or you can tie in at a different location that good too.

Since you are moving an electric hwh, also: 1) raise it off the basement floor and put 4" of foam underneath for insulation, 2) wrap the entire heater in at least 6" of fiberglass or similar insulation, 3) install U-shaped heat traps on both the cold and hot water lines, 4) insulate all hot water pipe that you can get to, and 5) as others said, locate it close to the major hot water use point. These suggestions cut our electric use for hot water by 50%.

Floor drain considerations for the over pressure/temp valve?
We have a GeoSpring and I think a lot about how best to use it to capture waster heat or to provide cool dry air in the summer. I've come to the realization that it would be nice to be able to operate it differently depending upon whether the whole house is in heating versus cooling mode.
I was thinking in the Summer the GeoSpring air inlet could pull air from the 1st floor and exhaust it to the basement; increasing HP efficiency, cooling the 1st floor, and drying the basement.
In the winter both intake and exhaust would connect to the basement.

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I think you might have some of that wrong. Pulling air from the 1st floor in Summer will increase efficiency, but unless you exhaust back to the first floor, you will not be cooling it, if you cause more outside air to be drawn in, you will be doing the reverse.

I think you might have some of that wrong. Pulling air from the 1st floor in Summer will increase efficiency, but unless you exhaust back to the first floor, you will not be cooling it, if you cause more outside air to be drawn in, you will be doing the reverse.

TE

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I like to get reality checks on things like this.
The cool air from the basement should rise up the stairway to replace the air pulled to the basement by the HP...at least that's what I'm thinking.