Polpetto

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

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Users say
(6)

3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

In the days when exotic dancers still gyrated their way around the Raymond Revuebar in Walker’s Court, it would have been inconceivable that a restaurateur could become the ‘King of Soho’. But today the area is a hotspot for culinary rather than carnal pleasures. From the latest small-plates places to rock ‘n’ roll ramen joints, Soho has become a magnet for diners aiming to improve their cultural capital. And when it comes to successful ventures in the area, restaurateur Russell Norman takes the crown.

There’s no denying Norman’s credentials as a trendsetting restaurateur. After he and business partner Richard Beatty opened Polpo on Beak Street in 2009, there was a ripple of me-too establishments and there’s no shortage of pared-down New York-style diners in the ilk of their Rupert Street establishment Spuntino either. There are also two other branches of Polpo now - one in Covent Garden, the other in Smithfield. These days Norman also presents a BBC TV series (‘The Restaurant Man’) in which he shares his wisdom. And true to form, the latest incarnation of Polpetto (previously on a different site, a dining room above the French House on Dean Street) looks set to be a winner.

The new Berwick Street premises are more upscale. The long, low-lit dining room bubbles with attentive staff serving Italian-inspired small plates to the appreciative crowd who don’t seem to mind being seated on tightly packed tables. In the basement dining room, there’s the bonus of a view of chef Florence Knight and her skilled team in a glass-fronted kitchen.

As well as more familiar assemblies such as fork-tender veal cheeks in an earthy fennel, white wine and bean stew, or sweet baby beetroots coated in poppy seeds and served with tangy gorgonzola cheese, there are many options on the menu which will have you reaching for your encyclopaedia. Small, green ‘cuckoo flower’ leaves added a fiery horseradish-like hit to a plate of boiled pink fir potatoes, while raw, pickled parsley-root discs tasted similar to parsnip. Each dish struck an impressive balance between simplicity and satisfying flavours. Cocktails too were cleverly mixed with Italian liqueurs such as Cynar adding complex bitter notes to the likes of a gin fizz.

With this Soho comeback Polpetto’s acquired a bolder, more mature feel – and we think it’s better than ever.

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Polpetto says

Polpetto is the jewel-box Soho restaurant from Polpo founders Russell Norman and Richard Beatty. It offers sharing plates with Venetian influences, following the traditions of its sister restaurants. Expect to see dishes such as smoked mozzarella croquette, and anchovy and caper pizza.

I visited on 1/3/14 and have to say I couldn't have been more disappointed. Following Russel on The Restaurant Man' I had high expectations but was left wondering if his TV commitments had led to him taking his eye off the ball. Warm bottled beer,wine not chilled enough,three wrong courses brought on three separate occasions,one course forgotten about and service so slow we didn't have time to have sweet.

Here's the thing with Polpetto (and Polpo to boot): it might be to do with expectations. Russell Norman's take on a Venetian ciccetti was a concept that was new to London when he opened Polpo but it wasn't entirely unfamiliar in tone: mezze, dim sum, tapas - these are all cousins of ciccetti. Fast-forward to now and small plate dining is everywhere and this sociable and boozing-friendly way of eating has now exploded in popularity. If you come to Polpetto for a hearty Italian meal, you may leave on the slightly empty of belly side (and more so on the wallet front). Polpetto is perfect for a slightly fancier light meal or heavier lunch - order two dishes each and a cocktail and expect to pay around £20 per head. The highlights of the menu are the traditional ciccetti (the chopped liver on toast is particularly delectable) and the salads which are studded with flavoursome gems (the beetroot and goat's cheese may sound unadventurous on the menu but on the plate it's a slick of creamed, salty cheese with slivered beetroot curled into roses nestling atop). Polpetto is the perfect place for a date by the way; the atmospheric gloom of the dining room transports you to another era and city and it's the kind of place that makes you want to order just one more drink and one more plate.

Dull, basic, overpriced food. The kitchen shows zero ambition. Small and anaemic, the 'pizettes' cost only slightly less than proper Napoli pizzas in nearby Pizza Pilgrims. Swordfish tartare was just an ordinary, fish-less parcel of fine-chopped tomato. Spicy pork and fennel sausages could've come from a can. The only hit was deep-friend squid. But how hard is that? There's nothing here I couldn't make myself. Money is better spent at Copita round the corner. This is dire.

I’ve never eaten a starter or main course in this Soho restaurant, but I have returned several times to enjoy dessert because their chocolate flan is possibly one of the best desserts in London!

It’s a bold claim, I know, but the richness of the chocolate combined with the almost sharp tanginess of the accompanying quenelle of creme fresh is just heaven on a spoon! The lovely chap behind the bar (the bar seating is lovely - you get a great view of the restaurant without the formality of restaurant seating!) now knows my boyfriend and me as the two who just come in for pudding, and he rarely has to ask us what it is we want to order. He’s very friendly, and always good for a natter.