The conversion of Volts to Amps is governed by the equations Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 120 watts/110 volts = 1.09 amps

Converting Amps to Volts at fixed wattage

The conversion of Amps to Volts is governed by the equation Volts = Watts/Amps

For Example, 48 watts / 12 Amps = 4 Volts

Explanation

Amps are how many electrons flow past a certain point per second. Volts is a measure of how much force that each electron is under. Think of water in a hose. A gallon a minute (think amps) just dribbles out if it is under low pressure (think low voltage). But if you restrict the end of the hose, letting the pressure build up, the water can have more power (like watts), even though it is still only one gallon a minute. In fact the power can grow enormous as the pressure builds, to the point that a water knife can cut a sheet of glass. In the same manner as the voltage is increased a small amount of current can turn into a lot of watts.

Thought I'd bump this thread again with some random audio information -

For maximum sound quality ala accuracy your not supposed to upsample things your supposed to have them outputed in whatever format quality the stuff is that your listenin to, i.e. most if not all mp3's are 16-bit, 44.1KHz so thats what i have my soundcard set to and if i play DTS its overrided anyways by my DAC through the passthrough directly

"If you're playing back 16-bit 44.1kHz sampled content without any processing, and the DAC is ideal, then increasing the sample rate or bitdepth will make no difference to the output quality. If the DAC is non-ideal, then upsampling in software can improved the measured performance. If the DAC is terrible, then ABXing this improvement by listening is possible (especially with torture signals!).

Increasing the bitdepth is only necessary to avoid a measurable decrease in quality if you're going to do any processing, e.g. EQ, ReplayGain, DSP, digital volume control, convolver etc etc. Most maths produces more bits, so it makes some sense to keep as many as possible. Otherwise you have to re-quantise the output of these stages back down to 16-bits, which is rather like dividing two by three, and then rounding to the nearest whole number! This is only ABXable on specific (mostly test) signals, but certainly improves the measured performance."

The main advantage of a solid-state amplifier is that it uses "negative feedback" a feedback that literally fed back into the circuit - to stabilise the signal and improve gain (or volume). While this gives you plenty of power to drive massive speakers and hurt your neighbours, it does affect the characteristics of the audio signal.

Valve amps, on the other hand, use very little negative feedback and have very linear circuits. If your aim in amplifying an audio signal is to alter it as little as possible from the original , then a linear circuit has a good chance of doing that.

Something that baffles many valve n00bs is the apparent "weakness" of valve amps, in terms of power. An example of one called the PrimaLuna ProLogue FouR has only 35W per channel! What a piece of junk! But no: because valve amps are linear, their wattage "counts" for a lot more. About eight times more. So the ProLogue FouR can pump it with a 280W solid-state amp.

What is then true is that, dollar for dollar, it is much cheaper to get "valve sound" using a valve amp than it is to buy a very high-end solid-state system.

The main advantage of a solid-state amplifier is that it uses "negative feedback" a feedback that literally fed back into the circuit - to stabilise the signal and improve gain (or volume). While this gives you plenty of power to drive massive speakers and hurt your neighbours, it does affect the characteristics of the audio signal.

Valve amps, on the other hand, use very little negative feedback and have very linear circuits. If your aim in amplifying an audio signal is to alter it as little as possible from the original , then a linear circuit has a good chance of doing that.

Something that baffles many valve n00bs is the apparent "weakness" of valve amps, in terms of power. An example of one called the PrimaLuna ProLogue FouR has only 35W per channel! What a piece of junk! But no: because valve amps are linear, their wattage "counts" for a lot more. About eight times more. So the ProLogue FouR can pump it with a 280W solid-state amp.

What is then true is that, dollar for dollar, it is much cheaper to get "valve sound" using a valve amp than it is to buy a very high-end solid-state system.

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im proberbly 1 of thoes noobs too.... dont know as much as most of these people here and there is a big difference with the amount of experience they have had to me...
im just guessing but i think my NAD amp comes into that value area, some1 said its 45W each channel yet can destroy my 3 way pioneer 90W speakers easy at low volume.

When you get lots of quality a usual bi-product, to me at least seems to be a lot of volume as well

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haha yea proberbly but im thinking most of the high-end amps can only do that my Yamaha amp hasnt got as much quality as the NAD but the yamaha is newer.... cheap china products im guessing is the cause.

p.s. what do you think about kicker subs compared to rockford fosgate? eg build quality and correct rms

Is your NAD a valve amp? otherwise, it's just the old factor of newer stuff is cheaper made having more short cuts made in manufacturing for cost cutting like *cough* Sony in their original PlayStations for example. I know someone who did mod chips on them and he said each revision they cut more and more cost out of it, and then on the Slimline one's they couldn't even run San Andreas without burning out the laser cos of the amount of data it had to keep constantly reading off the discs. Compared with the old days where products where made so company could make a name for themselves in supplying a decent product that would last for years to come, where as these days it's not about something being reliable unless you pay real top dollar, it's more about who can get their stuff out first with new technologies integrated and such, and rake as much money from it as possible. Well that's my opinion anyways.

Is your NAD a valve amp? otherwise, it's just the old factor of newer stuff is cheaper made having more short cuts made in manufacturing for cost cutting like *cough* Sony in their original PlayStations for example. I know someone who did mod chips on them and he said each revision they cut more and more cost out of it, and then on the Slimline one's they couldn't even run San Andreas without burning out the laser cos of the amount of data it had to keep constantly reading off the discs. Compared with the old days where products where made so company could make a name for themselves in supplying a decent product that would last for years to come, where as these days it's not about something being reliable unless you pay real top dollar, it's more about who can get their stuff out first with new technologies integrated and such, and rake as much money from it as possible. Well that's my opinion anyways.

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and a good opinion
i dont know if it is or not. i got it from my uncle not long ago, he has no information about it
and forogt the cost -_- ohwell it performes above my likings so i have nothing to complain about

just wondering, can you wire a car subwoofer to a car amp using both front and rear channels bridged to gain the most power insted of using just 1 channel? im guessing it wont work but would be nice to know

just wondering, can you wire a car subwoofer to a car amp using both front and rear channels bridged to gain the most power insted of using just 1 channel? im guessing it wont work but would be nice to know

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thats kinda what i randoly figured out with my dell sub. had to rewire it [rabits]
it was putting out no bass at all. also i have my stock pc speakers in ear output , amp in front , 1 day when i was tidying up the cables i ran a wire from back speakers to the amp . and then i had bass? it should have been working on its own but maybe it needed better signal /power? . i dont no that much about speakers/amps n sitch.

i think someone on here told me that if its line level (going into the amp) you cannot just put two channels together by splicing the wires together it makes the voltages too high or something. If it was speaker level (going out of the amp to speakers) thats fine.

You cant join 2 diffrent line signals like that. Also connecting 2 speakers to one output changes their impendance depending if you connect them in parallel/series.
Bad configuration may fry amp/damage speakers.

You cant join 2 diffrent line signals like that. Also connecting 2 speakers to one output changes their impendance depending if you connect them in parallel/series.
Bad configuration may fry amp/damage speakers.

Ya, turns out you can do it if the sub is a dual voice coil, as you will be essentially using two internal amps from 2 bridges (ala bridging the 4 to a 2 channel) with somewhat changed impedances (as long as amp is bridging capable) to use one channel to power one coil then the other channel to power the remaining coil. If it is just a SVC sub which I have been informed it is, it cannot be done as double bridging causes too much impedance load on the amp, and will cause shorts and/or you will be left with a smelly mess of smoke and fire in the amplifier.

Technically a double post, but hopefully someone will reply. I would just like some opinions on the subwoofer I now have on order. Looked around a bit at HSU, Dayton, SVS, B&W, PSB, Polk Audio, Wharfedale and Emotiva, but finally I decided to go with an Elemental Designs A2-250 subwoofer. Seems to go really low, be decently accurate, is really well built and has nice bit of power to boot. The product link is located here --> http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_41&products_id=406 . Tell me what you think, I'm personally looking really forward to my purchase [Edit: Went with the PSB SubSonic 5i, hard to order internationally from Elemental Designs]

Haven't been on in a while and decided to update pics of my system, amps are still the same atm but have got a few more subs and other speakers. subs are very underpowered because of the weak PSU but investing in a 2 frad cap to keep up the voltages.

coool i have creative g500 5.1 with sub 130w rms and sattelite channels 36 w
my friend gave me his burnt creative s700 i used the soeakers rms 70w i didnt use the sub can i swich my sub with the s700 sub 130vs 230???

coool i have creative g500 5.1 with sub 130w rms and sattelite channels 36 w
my friend gave me his burnt creative s700 i used the soeakers rms 70w i didnt use the sub can i switch my sub with the s700 sub 130vs 230???

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so you want to change the driver from one box to another? if yes they would have to be the same size sub woofer to fit in the existing hole. you would be better asking SabreWulf69, he knows a lot more about it then me. the s700 sub doesnt have to match the g500 Watt rating just needs to be higher then the g500 rms

How on earth do you use car audio gear in your home and keep them all sounding clean? not to mention turn it on/off with convenience?
years ago, i remember i used a battery charger, battery and hooked up some Rockford punch amp and two 12's, freaking pounded, but very power inefficient and was far from the cleanest sound.