Description

This varied route is a must do for the area. Most climbers only sample the first two or three pitches, which have some classic varnished face climbing.

P1: Heady friction leads to the right and a well protected 5.10a mantle. Another funky 5.10 move leads to the LF dihedral above. A green alien is helpful in this section. A short easy runout leads to chains.

P2: A short runout leads to the first of many bolts angling up and right. The height dependent crux (5.10c/d) is at the last bolt. The 3rd to last bolt directs the rope into a crack under a flake, so a long sling may be helpful. Belay in a hole similiar to the one on Pygmy Alien. An airy pitch...

P3: Wild moves lead out of the cave to the left. 6 bolts protect these heady moves up the varnished slab to a two bolt anchor. (5.11a)

P4: Follow the varnished crack to the top of the wall. The crux is finger size, but the crack widens higher up. Plan on walking off the top.

It is possible to descend from the top of P3 with a single rope. An off route anchor is located below the P2 anchors, which is located on a blank wall.

Location

This is the rightmost route on the Aftershock Wall. Start at a belay bolt and head straight right to the first bolt.

Pitch 1 crux is moving into the corner, hard non gym like friction moves. Pitch 2 crux is the bolts right below the hole, super reachy crimp moves. The first bolt off the belay is 15 feet up so beware factor 2. Pitch 3 has hard moves right off the belay with an obvious sequence off thin positive crimps followed by a leftward traverse to 60 ft of 5.7 hero jugs to the belay. Pitch 4 looks good but is total choss. Sandy sandy sandy. Just rap from there. If you want to top out do living instead.

The bolts are pretty spacey on this one. Don't expect red rocks urioste bolting here. The 3rd pitch belay could use some chain love as it is a nest of tat. Rap straight down from the hole atop pitch 2 to find another anchor. 1 70m worked fine from top of 3 down.

This is not a sport route. Expect runouts and an old school style of bolting. You need to be really solid at climbing 5.11 to enjoy this route. If you decided to do the 4th pitch and top-out you will need to carry gear up with you. Good belay stances.