2005 Rulo, Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington, $24. Deeply hued, full and friendly, this wine displays smoked meats and black fruit throughout. It is easy to drink right now given its welcoming tannins; 90/91.

2005 Sapolil, Syrah, Dwelley Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $35. This deeply-hued Syrah exudes black fruit. Medium to full in the mouth, the wine has a crisp, tannic backbone and a long finish; 89/89.

2005 Sapolil, Syrah, Patina Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $38. This Syrah is almost black in the glass. Rich and ripe, the sweet black fruit is backed by firm, rounded tannins. Thereâ€™s no rush to drink this one â€“ let it age; 91/91.