I just got the parts to switch my B4 to the regular axels instead of the trailing in the front. Why do they have the two different styles? Personally I like having a wheel nut rather than having to loctite a screw. Should make the wheelbase a bit longer too. Are there any handling differences between the two? I've never even drivin it yet.

Derek, how much for your B4 and what comes with it?

**edit** Just looked at the car, and when you switch to the inline axels you need to switch the spacers to the front. So I guess you don't gain any length.

Yeah i'm w/ Arron on this one, i've heard that from a few other people that it's just better all around for traction, and accel.

i also polish my hinge pins, and roll pins just because they are alot smoother, and freer and look better then. i will also take like about 1000-1600 grit sand paper and then sand down the arm on both side and ends just a little bit and then the rest will just break in eventually as you drive it. i just sand it so they start to move freely as you turn it upside down, or else if you sand it so that they will be so free that they just wanna keep moving when you move it the littlest bit then once you put some abuse to it it will just create to much slop, and then you'll have to do the porcess over again. just my $.02

I just picked up a T4 FT and am having some trouble with battery size. The chassis is carbon so it is conductive. I have placed thin lexan strips on each side of the tray so the battery does not short out. One of my packs I have to really squeeze, push, and wrestle with to get it in. The other one just will not go in. I have redone the bars but it didnt help. Both packs are 3300's using bonez. I am thinking about getting a plastic chassis as this is such a problem. I lined the cells up even and flattenend out one side of the bar (+) to try and save some room.

What are the rest of you guys doing to make packs fit in this truck, and does the plastic chassis have the same issue?

Hi jrjr,
The plastic chassis will be the same size as the carbon, therefore if you switch, you are likely to have this same issue. The difference is however that you will not be using the lexan strips. How thick are the strips that you are using? Many people like to switch to the plastic chassis because it will flex a little bit more than the carbon which will allow for better handling on most track, and make your T4 a little more forgiving. The bones bars that you are using should be able to fit. It is usually a tight squeeze already even when you are using the plastic chassis. Sometimes if you have a clump of solder on your joints then this will prevent the batteries from fitting properly. Although you mentioned that you redid the bars. I had this same issue with one of my packs. I had to take some of the solder off each bar, and I made sure to press each bar down all the way on to each cell. It took a little tweaking, but eventually it fit. Let us know if you get them working. There is nothing like having a car or truck all ready to go, but then the battery doesn't fit.

I am using the trimmings from a body so its pretty thin. I just ordered the plastic chassis. It may be the same size but I will save the Lexan and adhesive thichness at least. And, I can just cram it in and not worry about conductivity. .

What was Associated thinking??? I know that a snug fit is a good thing, but this is a bit much don't ya think?

Aight, it comes with all the hppups listed in this forum for 125.... but, if you want electronics with it, I have a new V7.1 mounted in it, it has 2 runs on it, a new custom built and tuned P2k, probably one of the faastest motors I have built, and a Trinity or Reedy 3300, your choice, for 250. Let me know if you guys want it. I have a Post in the For sale forum if you want to look at it, but it has all the hopups i listed earlier in this forum.... OM me or e-mail me at [email protected]