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Author Notes:This is the dish that reminds me of home, the dish that my mother knows to make every single time I come home, without asking. This is our Christmas ham and our Thanksgiving turkey. It's a young heirloom, because my mother created the recipe herself, but the number of times I've requested it is enough to span several generations, and I will certainly be passing it on if I can help it. —cynthia | two red bowls

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Serves 4

2
pounds lamb shank (about 2 shanks)

4-5
star anise, whole

3-4
slices of ginger

3-4
large garlic cloves, smashed

2
green onions, sliced into 2-inch pieces

10-12
radishes, ends trimmed

1/4
cup Chinese shaoxing wine (but any other will work, too)

2-3
sprigs rosemary

1/4-1/2
cups soy sauce, depending on how salty you prefer

1/4
cup water, with more if the liquid boils down too much

3-4
tablespoons sugar

2
bundles rice stick noodles

1
tablespoon chili oil, garlic chili paste, or Sriracha

1/3
cup cilantro, chopped

Bring water to boil in a large pot. Place lamb shanks into the water and parboil for 5-10 minutes, skimming off any scum that forms. Drain.

Place the shanks back in the pot with star anise, ginger, garlic, green onions, half the radishes, cooking wine, rosemary, soy sauce, water, and sugar. Simmer over medium-low heat for 15-20 minutes. Add the remaining radishes and continue to simmer for about 20 more minutes, or until the sauce reduces. You may need to add more water if the sauce boils down too much.

In the meantime, soak rice stick noodles in warm water for about 5-10 minutes. When they have softened somewhat, add the noodles to the pot, stir well to submerge (again, you may need to add a bit more water) and cover, simmering for another 10 minutes or until noodles are ready.