After an absence of many years, one of New York’s first Sichuan restaurants has been reconstituted on its original site in Chinatown. It was known as Hwa Yuan Szechuan Inn; two descendants of the founder have brought it back and shortened the name to Hwa Yuan Szechuan.

Another signature dish, even more famous, was the cold sesame noodles. These were imitated all over New York, often in lamentable fashion. Chien Lieh Tang, the chef, says he has brought back his father’s recipe, which is much less sweet and more balanced than the typical takeout knockoff.