I believe you have to be careful with lithium and moly greases with plastics so keep it off your suspension and out of your shifters.

You might want to find something else to lube your seatpost with before insertion too - You are looking for waterproofing and corrosion protection there, not friction reduction (as anyone who's ever had to resolve slipping seatpost issues will tell you). More of an issue on mountain bikes with a QR clamping the seatpost instead of a bolt but still...

You have to keep in mind that we are living in Moly hype era. Yes Molibdenium difulfide and liquid form of moly are fantastic AW and EP additive in today high demining lubrication.Unfortunately no one is perfect. E.g try to use moly in high speed rolling/ball bearing application and look what happen. Back to the topic, The bicycle bearings are low demanding application Low speed, very low loads, temperature doesn’t exceed 40…42C.Water washout and corrosion protection are number one requirements. Personally I have tried Moly grease for bike but I don’t like the dark color. I use Mobil products as Mobil SHC 100, 220 and XHP 222.Only place where I still use moly in bike is my chain. I stove my moly mixturer at T=100C for my race and trekking bikes. In this we have dry lubrication and I have consciously choosen moly – not because it is hype and everybody use it.

Back to the topic, The bicycle bearings are low demanding application Low speed, very low loads, temperature doesn’t exceed 40…42C.Water washout and corrosion protection are number one requirements.

Given the bearing issues people have with bikes, especially bottom bracket bearings I'd disagree... To a point.

True, the temps are low but the demands on performance of the bearings in terms of weight, low drag and packaging are high.

Bikes, especially mountain bikes function in a dirty environment where the requirements of good sealing and low drag conflict. Additionally weight and the need to fit bearings in parts that meet certain size standards seem to mean that bikes sometimes end up with either poorly sealed bearing or bearings undersized for the load. Maintenance, of course, is a factor but who wants a BB or hubs you have to rebuild every week.

I'm surprised we don't see more bike parts with grease injection ports. I believe Suntour used to make hubs but otherwise nothing.

More and more loose bearing components are being replaced by cartridge bearings (with appropriate dust/grease seals), which would negate the need to disassemble the bearing assembly, clean them and relube them.

Shimano is still be big proponent of the loose bearing/cone assembly for their wheels though.

More and more loose bearing components are being replaced by cartridge bearings (with appropriate dust/grease seals), which would negate the need to disassemble the bearing assembly, clean them and relube them.

Shimano is still be big proponent of the loose bearing/cone assembly for their wheels though.

You can still pick the seals off with a dental pick, re-grease them and push the seals back in place.

The big advantage of cartridge bearings is they take the unskilled user out of the loop so the bearings aren't adjusted too loose or tight and damaged.

How much maintenance have you have to do over the 20K Km you have on your BB. How much maintenance to reach 100K Km?

If you had to service your car's wheel bearings as frequently would you not begin to think they might need a more robust design?

Their life is hard, as I stated, due to the conflicting requirements put on them of low drag, dirty environment and weight. You even said that "Water washout and corrosion protection are number one requirements". Designing a bearing that can take the weight & power output of a cyclist isn't hard. Designing one that will fit in one of the current BB standards, be sealed well enough to last and still spin with minimum drag from the seals takes a bit more thought (and the resulting product will require some extra care from the end-user, no spraying a hose directly at the bearings when cleaning the bike for example).

If 3 Watts for a BB (assuming that's correct, I don't know where you got your figures) is nothing why are ceramic bearings for hubs, bottom brackets and even derailleur pulleys selling?

I have done zero maintenance for 20K km /4…5years. Even more there is no way to maintain this hub. Just google for SKF BB! I use my bicycle mainly to commute in the Netherlands 60km/day. Weather is similar to UK – sometimes rain, rarely snow, but a lot of salt. It is relatively mild condition compare to world cyclist. Zero maintance, 100km. E.g no one do maintaince cycling in Middle East, India or mainland China. I don’t know what do you mean with MTB usage. My picture for MTB is – Sunday morning fat rider sitting on high end 4000+$ carbon frame MTB immediately cleaned after the race, maintained at least once per year at LBS.There are plenty of power measurements data. Just google for it.3W is not fo BB only – It is pedals+BB+Wheel bearings.Ceramics bearing. Yeah …… read power test data German cycling magazines are good source for it.Ask yourself If you don’t believe on them, Why Shimano or Sram don’t make ceramics bearing? Are they stupid?

I did use moly on my bottom bracket and it works fine.. but I couldnt help my self when I found a tube of phil on ebay cheap..

I love ebay

Up until now I have hear only positive reaction about Phil Wood Grease. I have two questions:1. I wonder what for type grease is? /I suppose AL complex/2. What brand they use? - they don't have their own facility to produce grease, nor the entrance to advanced additive packages,nor the base oils. I suppose that they re-brand some marine grease - e.g. Sta-Lube which it sells for 4..5$/cartridge at Amazon.

Personally I have never trust on bicycle grease. I use Industrial or marine grease from trusted suplier with clear specification and test results.

I did use moly on my bottom bracket and it works fine.. but I couldnt help my self when I found a tube of phil on ebay cheap..

I love ebay

Up until now I have hear only positive reaction about Phil Wood Grease. I have two questions:1. I wonder what for type grease is? /I suppose AL complex/2. What brand they use? - they don't have their own facility to produce grease, nor the entrance to advanced additive packages,nor the base oils. I suppose that they re-brand some marine grease - e.g. Sta-Lube which it sells for 4..5$/cartridge at Amazon.

Personally I have never trust on bicycle grease. I use Industrial or marine grease from trusted suplier with clear specification and test results.

I'm sure its just water proof marine grease.. I wonder were Phill gets his grease from also ?