OH dear Pete, you need to resize your image please, you're breaking the formatting. Images must be 800 pixels maximum at the moment. sorry about that.

Rashad, yup, that was the impression I was trying to give.

It was a follow on render from this one. I decided to try doing a render showing what Dublin could have looked like when Molly Malone was around, for real. This is one I did of the Statue in Dublin. The locals call it "The Tart with the Cart"

Great renders http://www.daz3d.com/forums/smileys/# pity about needing to reduce them to 800 pixels though., in fact are they even working, I just popped one in here but all I can see is the link. Maybe I've done something wrong.

Ok I will play. He one that I am especailly proud of done a while back in 7 Pro

The Heat effect done postwork which was fun trying to figure out how to achieve a reasonable result.

Szark, you talk about the heat effect, but personally, I'm more surprised to see Chromatic Aberration. Congratulations on being the only other person I've seen on this forum who's even bothered with Chromatic Aberration. I think it's a very important effect, and really helps make it work as a 'photo'. Bryce renders perfectly as a Raytracer, and that's a problem if you want it to look as if it was shot through a real lens. No lens is perfect, and nor should the render be if it's to look like a photo.

Thanks Kiwi and pumeco. I must say you sure have a good eye pumeco. Got a Chromatic Aberration removal plug-in for Gimp and just used negative values to create it. Took me ages to get the desired look. I have done 3 versions of the same image so far. ;)

Also I must admit it was a tip from one of my fellow Dreamlight and Daz Forum member, Tugpsx. I like tips like that because it educated me on what Chromatic Aberration was, looking at Wikis and forums discussing and showing real examples. Yes I buzz off all this. LOL

Rashad you inspired me, with yoiur opening image, to return to an image I started two years ago and I have publiclly shown two versions both not good enough for me when I look back on them. When you see it you may remember it as you gave me Fill Cube Light advice for it.

Rashad you inspired me, with yoiur opening image, to return to an image I started two years ago and I have publiclly shown two versions both not good enough for me when I look back on them. When you see it you may remember it as you gave me Fill Cube Light advice for it.

I think I already remember the image. It was a cityscape with a nearby mountain range of sorts. The city was kind of in the valley. I suggested the 3D Fill bwecause Domes and IBl while great, were casting light from too far of a distance, making it hard to illuminate those surfaces which are hidden from the sky but still worthy of indirect bounced light from the environment. The 3d Fill does that quite well.

But in truth there are lots of possible light arrangements, all of them with benefits and drawbacks.

What I find interesting in your post is that it has been already 2 years since the last Bryce update. Hmm.

The chromatic aberration looks quite natural with its violet and cyan fringes. Personally, I hate it and do a lot to fight it before it gets on the "film". Afterwards, narrow notch filters are needed to get rid of those fringes. The heat effect looks very good.

Got a Chromatic Aberration removal plug-in for Gimp and just used negative values to create it. Took me ages to get the desired look.

The first time I got the idea was using a plugin called PTLens, which is a plugin designed for removal of lens artifacts.

What's cool about PTLens is that they update it with data from actual lenses. Of course the idea is that the processing is designed to counteract the lens artifacts, but that also means that if you apply these corrections to an image that is already perfect (a render), then the effect is opposite, it actually adds lens artifacts to an otherwise perfect image, making it look as if it was actually shot through whatever lens you choose as the lens you wanted to correct. However, I don't use it now unless it's needed on an actual photo. For renders, I prefer to create the effect manually which in turn, gives total control over the look.

Quick Manual Chromatic Aberration Tutorial:

1 - Split your image into RGB or CYMK channels2 - Apply a moderate horizontal motion blur on one of the channels3 - Reconstruct the channels and you'll have a basic Chromatic Aberration effect

For anyone new to the effect, that's a great way to get started without needing a plugin. But once you try doing it manually, there are endless amounts of things that can be done to get better control over it. It can be as easy or as advanced as you want it to be. A more advanced technique is to use a Barrel or Fisheye distortion in gradually increasing amounts in each channel. This not only gives a very prismatic, crystalline sort of quality, but gives you some lens distortion into the bargain. I could go on and on about more and more advanced techniques, but anyone who tries this will automatically advance their grasp of things and figure them out anyway.

Basically though, it's an important effect if you're going for the look of a photograph. Chromatic Aberration of the variety we are talking about here, is something that is consciously noticeable because we can actually see the fringing. But there's another type of Aberration that goes unnoticed, something people don't talk about because they don't know it's there. I'm not going into that because it would require a fairly long tutorial, but for me at least, it highlights the importance of using these effects on renders that are intended as photos.

I fully agree with Pumeco. The Chromatic Aberration as well as other effects like Lens Flare are essential. The purpose of many users is to create the look of a photo. All mediums have their signatures, and photos are no different. The errors indeed help. I am curious about the other forms of Chromatic Aberration Len is eluding to. There are several different types of scattering that can occur within a lens that can cause color shifting. There are also signatures specific to certain types of lenses, all very important for the ultimate fakery.

Really nice work, Keryna! But i should advise you that until the resizing code is repaired they are requiring that all image uploads to the forums not exceed 800x800 because any larger will break the formatting for the page. You should resize immediately.

" Bryce is an amazing and underestimated program with amazing abilities ".

You got that statement right keryna. Bryce is not just a landscaper, renderer or animation tool, Bryce is many things to many people. You have seen the renders by some very good brycers in this thread and that level of expertise is something to aspire towards.
But just to add something xtra to this thread here is bryce as a modeller.

@Kiwi
I recently made an inquiry on the Forum as to modelling in Bryce, and having looked at your own work submitted here, it encourages me greatly to experiment.

Did you create every part - e.g. springs, bent pipes, cantilevers...etc., etc., - in Bryce, or, are you producing some parts in another 'ware, and then importing them in? I do hope that it's the former only, as I love your Moon-buggies (perhaps, they can be Mars-buggies, too), and would love to tackle one of them for a future project.