Title: Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics

Charles Fox is an independent consultant to the cosmetic and toiletry industry. He was previously Director of Product Development for the Personal Products Division of Warner-Lambert Company. Mr. Fox is a past recipient of the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers Award and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Medal Award; he has served as President of the SCC.

Skin and Skin Care

Self-warming cosmetic cleansing wipes: Beiersdorf, in a recent patent, describes self-warming cosmetic cleansing wipes impregnated with polyalcohols.2 The invention concerns cosmetics wipes that form heat upon contacting water and that contain at least 40% polyalcohols, less than 3% water and may also contain other cosmetic substances. Tissues and non-woven fabrics are impregnated with the mixture. Optionally further cosmetic active ingredients, adjuvants and additives can be added. The wipes are used for skin and facial skin cleansing and as toilette tissues. An example of an impregnating solution is shown in Formula 1.

Lignans for preventing or treating the signs of aging: L'Oréal discloses the use of lignans for preventing or treating the signs of aging.4 The invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one lignan of given formula, or of a plant extract containing it (such as an extract of flax seeds), in a composition for topical application to the skin. The formula contains a medium for preventing or treating the loss of firmness, elasticity and/or tonicity of the skin and/or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. The invention also relates to a topical cosmetic composition containing these lignans in combination with other anti-aging active agents. Lastly, the invention describes the topical application of a composition containing at least one such lignan in a cosmetically acceptable medium as a cosmetic process for treating dry skin.

Cosmetics containing acylglucosamines: Lion Corporation in a recent patent describes cosmetics containing acylglucosamines.5 Disclosed is a preparation containing at least one acylglucosamine derivative to improve the skin conditions, such as wrinkles, dryness, roughness, dullness and acne. The preparation may further contain polysiloxanes. An example is shown in Formula 2.

9-Octadecenedioic acid in preparations: Another patent assigned to Beiersdorf describes the use of 9-octadecenedioic acid in cosmetic and dermatological preparations.7 The invention concerns skin care that contains 9-octadecenedioic acid as well as cyclodextrins. An example is shown in Formula 4.

Formula 4. Cosmetics containing 9-octadecenedioic acid7

Glyceryl stearate citrate

2.00%

Myristyl myristate

1.00

Stearyl alcohol

2.00

Cetyl alcohol

1.00

Hydrogenated coco glycerides

2.00

Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

1.00

Ethylhexyl coco fatty acid ester

3.00

Petrolatum

2.00

Cyclomethicone

4.00

Dicaprylyl ether

1.00

Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate

3.00

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

1.00

9-Octadecenedioic acid

0.50

Sodium ascorbyl palmitate

0.05

Gamma-cyclodextrin

3.00

Iminodisuccinate sodium salt

0.20

Phenoxyethanol

0.30

Methylparaben

0.30

Propylparaben

0.30

Diazolidinyl urea

0.25

Xanthan gum

0.10

Carbomer

0.05

Glycerin

10.00

Butylene glycol

2.00

Colors

0.05

Perfume

qs

Water (aqua)

qs 100.00

Retinoid-containing preparations: BASF discloses retinoid-containing preparations with a water-soluble and an oil-soluble antioxidant.8 The invention concerns retinoid-containing cosmetic, drug or feed products that include a water-soluble and an oil-soluble antioxidant; salts of l-ascorbic acid and alpha-tocopherol are used. Cosmetic preparations are packaged in oxygen-impermeable containers, preferably coated aluminum, in a protecting gas atmosphere. An example is shown in Formula 5.

Sunscreen Foaming sunscreen compositions: Beiersdorf describes foaming sunscreen compositions containing a particulate organic sunscreen and emulsifier.10 The invention concerns a foaming composition that contains a particulate organic sunscreen and an emulsifier in a container with a pump; the foam is produced by forcing the emulsion with a high velocity through a screen or mesh. Benzotriazole derivative, especially 2,2'-Methylen-bis(6-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol, are used as sunscreens. The preferred emulsifier is a cetearyl polyglucoside. An example is shown in Formula 6.

Percutaneous AbsorptionFormulation and the topical delivery of alpha-tocopherol: Rangarajan et al. report on the effect of formulation on the topical delivery of alpha-tocopherol.11 The objective of this research was to investigate the effect of concentration and delivery system on skin permeation of alpha-tocopherol (alpha-T). Also, the addition of sunscreens and oleic acid on alpha-T permeation was studied using an in vitro micro-Yucatan pig skin model. Various delivery systems of alpha-T (1%) were formulated, which included simple solutions, gels, emulsions, and microemulsions. The experimental design chosen for this study was a statistical randomized complete block design. The results showed that alpha-T delivery was proportional to its concentration. The hydro-alcoholic gel delivered significantly higher amounts of alpha-T into the receptor than the other gels used. A microemulsion containing isopropyl myristate emerged as the best delivery system for alpha-T among all the systems studied.
Pig skin is a suitable in vitro model for studying the permeation of alpha-T and possibly other antioxidants, though in vivo experiments in humans are required to further corroborate the data.

Antiperspirants/DeodorantsVisible capsules in clear formulations: The Gillette Company in a recent patent discloses clear personal care compositions containing visible capsules.12 The composition of a clear antiperspirant gel composition is shown in Formula 7.

This product showed good transparency after 6-months storage at 0oC, and had a pH 5.2 and 5.7 before and after 6-months storage at 40oC. No ammonia odor was detected (through breakdown of urea) after 6-months storage at 40oC.

Cosmetic preparations composed of two phases without emulsifiers: Beiersdorf discloses cosmetic preparations composed of two phases without emulsifiers.14 The invention concerns cosmetic preparations (e.g., skin care products) that are composed of two phases without emulsifiers; phase separation is regulated via the specific gravity difference of the two phases; the specific gravity of the phases is influenced through the ingredients. The aqueous phase contains at least 50 wt/wt% (relative to the total preparation weight) alcohol and 0.01-60 wt/wt% (relative to the total preparation weight.) of organic and inorganic alkali metal and earth alkali salts. An example is shown in Formula 9.

AntimicrobialsSalvia cryptantha and Salvia multicaulis as antimicrobials, antioxidants: Tepe et al.16 have studied the antimicrobial and antioxidative activities of the essential oils and methanol extracts of Salvia cryptantha and Salvia multicaulis. The essential oils were examined for their potential antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities. Little or no activity was observed when the polar and non-polar subfractions of the extracts were tested, whereas the essential oils exhibited antimicrobial activity. The essential oils isolated from S. cryptantha and S. multicaulis were analyzed by GC-MS; 53 and 47 constituents were identified, respectively.
Antioxidant activities of the polar subfraction of the essential oil were examined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), hydroxyl radical-scavenging and lipid peroxidation assays. The essential oils, in particular, and the non-polar subfractions of methanol extracts showed antioxidant activity.
In conclusion, the results indicate that the oils of S. cryptantha and S. multicaulis have the capacity to scavenge free radicals and to inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms. Therefore they could be suitable for using as antimicrobial and antioxidative agents in the food and cosmetic industries.

Raw MaterialsCyclodextrins and encapsulation: Regiert reviews the cyclodextrins as another tool for encapsulation.17 Cyclodextrins are ring-shaped cylindrical molecules comprising a number of linked glucose molecules. Their complexes have the ability to wrap each individual molecule of the active ingredient, a process known as complexation. The cyclodextrins act as the host, and the accommodated molecule is the guest, which can be any molecule that is both small enough to fit inside the cavity and non-polar enough to interact with the lipophilic internal surface. In cosmetic and personal care products, the resulting complex releases the cosmetic substances on the skin exactly where it is needed. The advantages of using cyclodextrins in various products are described.
Soo-Jin Park et al. have written a book chapter reviewing microcapsules for fragrances and cosmetics.18 This chapter presents a systematic review of patents on fragrance and cosmetic microcapsules and microparticles. It describes the basic nature of fragrance and perfumery molecules and perfume construction and microencapsulation.
Perfumes are microencapsulated for improved long-term stability, efficacy, and controlled (or sustained) release over long periods. They are also often added as fragrants to other microencapsulated cosmetic products for body-care, air fresheners, wipe tissues, and detergents. The patents reviewed are also tabulated by formulation and microencapsulation of perfumes, and related devices for sustained perfume release based on fibers, fabrics, cyclodextrin, multilayer particles, selective aroma generators, and all types of natural and synthetic polymers used for these applications. Chemical structures of basic fragrant molecules, morphologies of different microcapsules, and examples of perfumed microcapsules, microspheres, fibers and fabrics are also discussed and illustrated. The review includes 173 references and 24 figures and tables.

a Nikkol TLP-4 is a product of Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan.b Emulgen 2025G is a product of Kao Corporation,Tokyo, Japan.

Soaking and natural moisturization on the stratum corneum: Visscher et al. have studied the effect of soaking and natural moisturizing factor on stratum corneum water-handling properties.1 Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is partially regulated by water-soluble molecules, i.e., the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that is associated with the corneocytes. Routine water exposure such as bathing may deplete NMF and alter the SC water-handling properties. The authors determined the effects of bathing and solvent extraction on the volar forearm skin of 11 healthy volunteers.
Acetone/ether (A/E) was used to remove surface and upper SC lipids. Adjacent sites were soaked for 10 minutes or treated with the A/E-plus-soak combination. Subsequently, an NMF formulation was applied to the treated sites, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration and moisture accumulation rate (MAT) were measured. A/E extraction increased TEWL, but did not effect MAT. Soaking produced a short-term increase in TEWL, followed by a decrease, and substantially reduced MAT, an effect that was maintained for 5 hours.
NMF application significantly decreased TEWL and significantly increased MAT for all sites. The replacement experiment suggests that the MAT reduction occurred as a result of extraction of hygroscopic NMF components. The effects of soaking and NMF application are more readily detected by the MAT technique, whereas TEWL is more sensitive to A/E extraction. The results support the use of multiple assessments of barrier function and raise questions about the effects of cumulative repeated water exposure on SC function.

Excerpt Only This is a shortened version or summary of the article that appeared in the Oct. 1, 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. The full content is not currently available online.