Marios Schwab, the Greek-Austrian designer based in London, revisited his childhood and his Tyrolean past at
London Fashion Week
today in a
collection
which translated folklore in a totally contemporary, almost futuristic manner.

One of a younger generation of artisan-craftsman designers, Schwab explored the concept of the dirndl, the corset-laced bodice and the traditional embroideries one associates with pretty young maidens in The Alps, or heaven forfend, Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music.

But this was no remake for a modern "Heidi". Schwab used silk charmeuse, Loden wool, silk taffetas and teddy-bear fabrics, to create a thoroughly modern silhouette shifted the folkloric into a new, desirable dimension.

A low-cut bodice was cut under the bust, over a white, full-sleeved shirt, and allied to short, bell-shaped skirt. Wide belts, scattered with precious stones and crystals, or intricate lacing, drew the eye to a very defined waist.

Cropped boleros, with a wave-cut just above the décolletage, emphasised the torso even further. The "dirndl" neckline was echoed in coats, in a Steiff, teddy bear-wool, belted, and worn with heeled boots, reminiscent of a walk in the forest.

The sensual outline and thinking behind the entire collection was emphasised with leather, pendant chokers, designed by
Ileana Makri
, which were inspired by the restraints used in The Story of O, and a tracery of stones detailing the low-cut necklines.

In more glamorous mode, Schwab, who has just shown his first collection for the American brand,
Halston
, at
New York Fashion Week
, showed black, asymmetric, "dirndl" dresses with crystal halters and shoulder details.

Two red carpet gowns in cream-parchment taffeta, which followed the "dirndl line" in silhouette, and were embellished with crystals - one featuring a half-ball gown-skirt over taffeta shorts, or should that be "taffeta-hosen" - completed this spectacular collection.