Newsprint Cowl

You may think of stockinette as so basic it’s boring, but think again! Stockinette has many surprises up its sleeve, including the beauty of its “wrong” side. Sometimes ignored for its sleeker knit stitch counterpart, the purl side has the advantage of texture: nubbly and rustic, tactile and fascinating!

For our Newsprint Cowl, we pushed this texture even further by adding stripes, so those purl bumps turn into blips of color like printed words across a page. And when the knit side folds over, as it’s bound to do, the contrast is far from boring!

To achieve the subtle effect of printed words, we used our light and lovely Line Weight. It’s also as soft as can be and just the right weight for fall, winter, and spring! -Michele Wang

P.S. Michele Wang is an amazing knit designer and good friend to Purl Soho. Be sure to check out her new book of patterns, Capsule Winter 2017, and thank you, Michele, for contributing this original design here! -The Purl Soho team

Materials

We love Wheat Flour and Soft Black for their classic “newsprint” look, but here are some other equally pretty color ideas…

Main Color: Heirloom White (left) + Contrast Color: Kiln Red (right)

Main Color: Honey Pink (left) + Contrast Color: Super Pink (right)

Main Color: Dove Gray (left) + Contrast Color: Trout Brown (right)

Gauge

24 stitches and 35 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Size

Finished dimensions: 12 inches high and 58 inches in circumference

Notes

The purl side of this Cowl is considered the right side, but you will make the Cowl with the wrong side facing you. This is so that most of your stitches will be easier knits rather than more difficult purls.

Because the wrong side is facing you, when you carry up the yarns for striping, be sure to twist them on the side facing you, aka the knit stitch side of the Main Body.

For more tips on carrying up yarn, please visit our Stripes in the Round Tutorial, but keep in mind that this tutorial carries the yarn up the backside of the work. The concept is the same, but again, here, you’ll carry the yarn up the front of the work!

Thanks for writing in! You could modify this to make a scarf. We have a wrap pattern with a similar look, our Ticking Stripes Wrap. I would suggest looking at that pattern and using it’s cast on number of 490 stitches to get a good length scarf. Please note that if you cast on and knit the wrong side rows and purl the right side rows, you will encounter a good deal of curling. You could use the technique that we used for the Ticking Stripes Wrap or you could add an applied i cord around the edges of your finished scarf to prevent the curling.

Hi, in South Africa we heading towards winter. The winters used to short and quite mild, especially in the Highveld, but of late the winter has lengthened a bit. We get an annual average of between eight and ten hours of sunshine, but the nights can be very cold, even below zero. The Newsprint Cowl is just the right stuff. The hugging softness is just perfect. I wonder if I can get the very type wool.This is the time when we are the envy of the coastals. Durban with hot and humid weather and Cape Town their days are cold wet. Bring your newly knitted cowls and let’s enjoy winter together.

Does anyone have tips to successfully casting on #348 stitches and not having any ‘twistsx’ along the way??? HELP!! Love the pattern, and terrified….too easy to ruin a great pattern and even better cowl!!

Thanks for the question! I understand the anxiety with casting on that many stitches and not wanting them to twist. I suggest you cast on your 348 stitches and lay your circular needle on a flat surface. Make sure the stitches reach all the way around the cord, from tip to tip of the needles. Your cast on should look like a knitted edge and you’ll want to have this edge face the center of your cord all the way around the cast on. If your cast on looks like this, you should be good to carefully pick up your work and join in the round. Best of luck!

Another way is to NOT join into the round for the first few rows and then join when it is much easier to see the ‘direction’ of the stitches. The small gap resulting from the unjointed stitches in the first few rounds can be easily stitched together using the cast on tail.

I have done it this way, with the added step of pinning it to my ironing board to make sure everything stays in place while I get that joining stitch knitted. Just stab straight pins into the ironing board cover, leaving enough room near the needle tips to work the join.

I just had this exact problem – with 348 stitches on a 32″ needle there was no way to lay it flat – the stitches all bunched up and curled around. I got a five rows in and realized it was twisted which was impossible to tell because it was so bunched up. With a circumference of 58″ would it be better to use longer needles? I did a practice gauge so I that wasn’t an issue.

Hello Lauren,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly go up in cord length, you will just want to make sure that your stitches aren’t stretched out as you knit. I wouldn’t go up to more than 40″. I will also say that once you get past the first few rows it does become much easier to navigate.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla

Thanks so much – I got a 36″ needle and *thought* I had succeeded but somehow they were twisted again. Glad to know they will straighten out once you get a few rows in, I haven’t gotten past the fourth row yet and because the knitting bunches up and gets so curly it is hard to keep track if it is twisted or not. I am going to try again maybe using the suggestion to pin it down to an ironing board. I have never had this problem before so I have been getting so frustrated!

It certainly is frustrating to find a twist in your knitting! I find it helpful to knit the first round before joining since it will be easier to see a twist around the needle when you have something a bit more substantial than just the cast on, and you can close up any gap when weaving in the tail of the cast on. I also like to do one last check after I have completed the first round after joining, because if there is a twist, you can still untwist it at this point when there is only a strand or two of yarn joining the cowl together without creating a too-obvious lump or bunchy area!

Thanks for writing in! You could modify this to make a scarf. We have a wrap pattern with a similar look, our Ticking Stripes Wrap. I would suggest looking at that pattern and using it’s cast on number of 490 stitches to get a good length scarf. Please note that if you cast on and knit the wrong side rows and purl the right side rows, you will encounter a good deal of curling. You could use the technique that we used for the Ticking Stripes Wrap or you could add an applied i cord around the edges of your finished scarf to prevent the curling.

I have a couple of skeins of Linen Quill. Is that okay as a substitute? And I have only a 24″ circular needle….will I have room for all those stitches or should I decrease, maybe by 50 or so?
Thanks for your help…I love your site!

Thanks for the question! Linen Quill is a great substitute for this pattern! Also, a 24″ cord might squish the stitches a bit but you can certainly try to cast on the 348 stitches. I think it’ll work out fine. Thanks!

I love this–so simple and so effective! Will definitely be adding it to my queue. I love line weight and especially projects like these that take a while but are so satisfying and enjoyable (once you get past the cast-on!). Thanks for another great project.

Can you please describe in a bit more detail the way in which one carries the two yarns up the’ knit’, i.e. the ‘wrong’ side of the work? Knitting every round means that the working yarn is always in the back of the work. I don’t understand how the yarns get twisted and carried on the front. Many thanks!

Thanks for writing in! To twist the 2 yarns in the front, you will bring both yarns to the front and twist them together one turn and then pick up the color that you will be using for the next round. I would suggest trying this on a small swatch until you get the hang of it and like the look of twist.

Hi, do you have any idea how much of each skein this pattern uses? I’m thinking of making more than one, and want to get a sense for how much yarn I need to buy. The pattern is really cute – can’t wait to get started on it!

This yardage doesn’t seem right. For every round of CC, there are two rounds of MC, thus it would stand to reason that the amount of CC used is about half of the MC yardage (not including the beginning and ending trim which is also in CC). I think you could make two cowls with 2 skeins of MC and 1 of CC.

Thanks for writing in! And thank you for voicing your concern! We have made some updated estimates based on the sample. We now would suggest 450 yards of the main color and 200 yards of the contrast color.

What a perfect project to knit up while confined to the sofa for six weeks with a broken leg! Supplies arrived quickly. Beautiful yarn. No stitches to count (after casting on) and it’s a simple, attractive pattern. I know I’ll wear this for years. Very satisfying to knit a cowl while my tibia knits itself back together again!

Thanks for writing us! You can easily shorten the cowl to whatever length you desire — just cast on less stitches! Also, if you’d like to use a 24″ needle you can but the stitches might be squished based on how many you cast on.

Thanks for this pattern, I’ve ordered the yarn and I’m looking forward to knitting it. I have a question about the cast-on though – is it necessary to use the long-tail method? I’ve never cast-on using that method and I was going to use the sling-shot method that you demonstrate in your tutorial, but measuring out three times the width of yarn seems like a lot, and I will probably make a mistake. Is there another cast-on method I could use? Would a cable cast-on give the same effect?

Thanks for the question. You can use any cast on method you prefer for this cowl. With long cast ons I like to place a marker every 20-30 stitches so I don’t have to count again and again. We used the long tail cast on, but you can use a backward loop cast on, cable cast on, etc etc. Thanks again for taking the time to write in!

Thanks for writing in! Given that this is written in the round, converting it to a flat blanket would require quit a bit of work! We do have a pattern for a steeked blanket that has a similar look to this lovely cowl, the Learn-to-Love-Steeks Blanket. You could also convert our Ticking Stripes Wrap to a blanket by casting on fewer stitches and knitting it wider.

I have started this cowl twice only to discover that I have 1 twist the first time and 2 twists the second time. I have spent a month of trying to get it done right. I love the pattern but how can I get he look as I can’t seem to deal correctly with the cast on although I put the stitches on a separate needle then transferred them. Thank you for any suggestions. Bev

Thanks for writing in! I know how challenging it can be to cast on a large amount of stitches and join them in the round only to find that you have made an inadvertent twist. The technique that works best for me is to cast on all of the stitches, lay the needle down on a table and make sure that each stitch is properly oriented. I then, very carefully, join in the round and knit on. This technique always works for me. It takes a bit of time but I find that it is worth it in the end.

I knit left-handed and find purl stitches much easier (and faster!). Can I reverse the purl rows at the beginning to knit and then purl the body of the work? I am afraid there is a problem I am not aware of?

Hello Beth,
Thank you for your question. I don’t see why not. The reason it is mostly knit stitches is to make it easier and faster so if Purl stitches are easier and faster for you – go for it! The only thing to note is to make sure you are carrying your yarn up on the knit side (wrong side).
Happy knitting,
Marilla

Hi I would like to knit this for someone who thinks wool is too itchy! I was looking at cashmere or cashmere blends – can you recommend a yarn that would be suitable substitute? Specifically, I was thinking about Jade Sapphire Cashmere Silk blend. the details are:
55% Silk/45% Cashmere Yarn 400 Yards / 55 Grams
Weight/Gauge: Lace
Recommended needle: 2 – 4
Would this yarn be too fine? It’s half the weight of the line weight so worried about that. Many thanks!
Brenna

Thanks for writing in! You can certainly substitute a thinner yarn here. You will need to cast on more stitches to get the same size. To determine your cast on number, knit a small gauge swatch, count your stitches per inch and then multiply that number by 58 inches and that will be your cast on number!

Hello Sheila,
Thank you for writing in! The first thing I would do is knit a gauge swatch. For this project we used a fingering weight yarn and got a gauge of 24 stitches per 4 inches in stockinette stitch with size US4 needles. The needles you use will be determined by the weight/gauge of your yarn. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla

Thank you very much for this and all patrons.
I am weaving this neck with a mix very similar to the one recommended. I did the sample and got the measurements they have by quantity of turns. From my result I can tell you that it is obvious that you need 300 gr and not 200 gr.

Hello Alicia,
Thanks for writing in! The sample in our shop weighs approximately 125 grams. We used about 420 yards of the main color and 220 yards of the contrast color. What type of yarn are you using? Are you using US4/3.5mm needles? I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla

I’d like to knit this with jade sapphire’s silk and cashmere 2 ply (for someone who thinks all wool is itchy). Should I use a double strand or simply go down a few needle sizes with this yarn? I knit a swatch with size 4 needles and it seemed way too loose and sloppy looking.

Hello Brenna,
Thanks for reaching out! This cowl will be beautiful in Cashmere. Before going down a needle size I would be sure to block your gauge swatch. If the texture remains to loose I would go down in needle size.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
-Marilla

Thanks for writing in! I think that either needle would work well for this project. I would probably use the 36″ needle myself. When working in the round, it is best to choose a needle that is smaller than the finished circumference so that the stitches are not stretched. With a circumference of 58″, I think that the 36″ needle would be quite comfortable!

Thanks for writing in! For this lovely cowl, we would suggest 450 yards of the main color and 200 yards of the contrast color. If you were to purchase 2 skeins of the main color and 1 color of the contrast color, you could make 2 cowls as you use most of the skein of the main color and a little less than half of the skein of the contrast color.

Thanks for writing in! I think that I see where the confusion is happening. When knitting in the round, as with this lovely cowl, if you knit every round, you will have one side with a knit texture and one side with a purl texture. IF you were to alternate between knit rows and purl rows when knitting the round, the effect would be garter stitch or purl texture on each side.

I loved working on this pattern and just finished my cowl. But I’m terribly disappointed in the way it rolls into a narrow curl from both sides to the middle. HELP! How can I get it to lay flatter and not look like a tube. I have “gently” sprayed and blocked it to dimension twice but it is still has a tube look.

Is the entire cowl rolling into a tube or just the edges? If only the edges are giving you a problem I would say that knitting a ribbed edge could be helpful. If the entire cowl is rolled up it might help to knit the cowl taller so that it isn’t so thin and then giving it a wet block.

Yes the entire cowl rolls. It was pretty wide, 12″ wide and it still rolled into a tube. So, I made another smaller one with 3 rows of garter stitch on the edges instead of the 4 rows of purl. It still rolled… only thing that worked was sewing the cast on edges together with the wrong sides together so it doubles the thickness of scarf. It’s still very soft and comfortable and at least the stripes show which is why I liked the pattern in the first place!

Hi, I love the look of this cowl. I recently bought some alpaca yarn that I’d love to use on this but the yarn is worsted weight (thought it looks/feels more like DK weight to me). Of course I know I’ll have to to swatch and change the number of stitches but how do you think this would look with WW/DK weight yarn? Thanks!

Hello Kathy,
Thank you for writing in! I have not seen this project done in a worsted weight yarn, but think this cowl could look lovely in a heavier yarn. I would recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in the round to see if you like the look.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla

Hello! Question…I have accidentally started with a knit stitch for the first four rounds. I am not as comfortable with pearl stitching so I was curious if continuing the pattern in a knit stitch throughout would cause the scarf to curl? Is it best to start over? Perhaps pearl the CC for four rounds to help the scarf lay flat?

Hello Meg,
Thank you for writing us! I have certainly been there before… Unfortunately, you are correct, without the border your cowl will be much more likely to curl. Since you are still so close to the beginning of the scarf I would recommend starting over.
Let us know if you have any further questions and happy knitting!
-Marilla

Thanks for writing in! If you are using a long tail cast on, the general rule of thumb is that you want a tail that is 3 times as long as your cast on. For this lovely cowl, the cast on circumference is 58″ so you would want a tail of 174″ to ensure that you have enough of a tail!

Thank you for this beautiful pattern. I’m looking forward to knitting along with my knitting buddy. i have a question with casting on. can I use a different method? Will single cable cast on work or long tail is the best for this project? If with long tail, how long of a tail for 348 stitches? sorry…too many questions. I’m just afraid i won’t nave enough long tail that i would have to start all over.

Hello Mai,
Thank you for reaching out! I hear you, it is always so frustrating to run out yarn at the end of a cast on. I find that when using the long tail cast on a good rule of thumb is to use three times the width of your project. If you use this method you should have enough!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla

Hello Gandalf,
Thanks for writing! This scarf is designed to be knit with a fingering weight on a size 4(3.5mm) needle, so if you are interested in knitting it on a size US10 you would need to go up to a bulky weight yarn and reduce your cast on number. This will change the look of the cowl quite a bit, so I would recommend knitting up a little gauge swatch before jumping in!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla

I asked this question incorrectly before and so this time I am asking if the cowl is 58 inches in circumference, then you must be doubling it around the neck, correct?
My cowl came out 10 shorter? Perhaps my gauge was off. It is a gorgeous cowl when knit up. So the cowl is doubled around the neck correct? thank you

Thanks for reaching out! Knitting stripes is really much easier than it seems! At this point, you will bring the tail of your main color to the front of the work (but don’t cut it!) and simply start knitting with your new color. After you have knitted one row with the contrast color, you will again bring the tail of the contrast color to the front, move the main color to the back, and start knitting with the main color for two rounds. Continue in this manner, bringing your old color forward and moving your new color back every time you switch, and you should have nice tidy stripes!

With the colour twists all on the outside, once you put the cowl on and twist it for a second loop around the neck, parts of both sides are showing – as in your photos. This means that some of the colour twists will be showing too, it’s inevitable.

Part 2 of comment: wondering if switching the colour twists to the INSIDE for the second half of the cowl, will help avoid most of them being seen, especially as the transition area will likely be where one twists the cowl?

Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that it is possible the line of twisted yarn could be visible when the cowl is worn; however, since it is in just one spot, it’s very easy to arrange the cowl so that the “seam” is on the bottom layer facing in and is unlikely to be seen. Even if you do work half the cowl so your twists are on the right side, you will still see a color jog in the stripes from switching colors so the wrong side still won’t look totally perfect, and you would have to carefully arrange and wrap the cowl so that only the correct parts are showing. I think it will be easier to put on the cowl so that the beginning of the rounds is at the back of your neck, and then twist and put on the second loop so it covers up that spot.

Purl Soho® and purlsoho.com and all images, contents and text on this website are the copyrights and property of Purl Soho. All rights reserved. Note: ALL projects and patterns featured on this website are for home use only and are not to be resold or made for sale to third parties. ® 2019 Purl Soho