Sell one of the other 2, I had the same dilmemma and sold my other bikes (both full suspension) , and coming from a lifetime full suspension guy - I still have no regrets... The HONZO is my ONE bike (for now).

Unfortunately yes, I have one too many bikes at the moment and the other 2 I can't part with. The struggle is real!

This is definitely a bad ass bike, but the money would be better used elsewhere. If I had a garage I could make it work, but it's sitting in my living room at the moment and my wife is getting sick of looking at it. I most certainly am not. I don't even watch TV, I just eat popcorn and look at this bike.

sorry to hear that bro. it's a shame you have to let it go! i get the popcorn idea though, i'm on the same page if i could afford it, i'd make you an offer.

Sell one of the other 2, I had the same dilmemma and sold my other bikes (both full suspension) , and coming from a lifetime full suspension guy - I still have no regrets... The HONZO is my ONE bike (for now).

Hmmm. I've pained over the decision and I just can't give up my Thunderbolt or TBLTc. I just can't bring myself to do it.
Just for fun:

Very nice stable....seems like the HONZO compliments those other 2 quite nicely.

But then again, most of us don't have enough time to ride 3 very nice rigs on a regular basis so I understand the need to unload and pare down the stable.

When I rode my HONZO a few times, I realized that I was very happy riding it all the time and didn't mind not having full squish in the back. I sold my fancy carbon fiber EVIL, and got a Ti HONZO. That's how much I loved the HONZO geometry.

If you really have to unload something, be honest when asking yourself which bike you ride the least or don't need. If it's the HONZO, then so be it....my personal opinion is that all serious mtn bikers who own more than one rig should at least have one hardtail.

One sure thing I noticed is that modern hardtail are way more capable than their counterparts from just a few yrs back.

Good luck with your decision, I went thru the same dilmemma - I'M uper happy I kept the HONZO..Ive been riding for over a decade (i'm an OG bike flipper) and this is my favorite bike out of them all...I plan on keeping it indefinitely..

Very nice stable....seems like the HONZO compliments those other 2 quite nicely.

But then again, most of us don't have enough time to ride 3 very nice rigs on a regular basis so I understand the need to unload and pare down the stable.

When I rode my HONZO a few times, I realized that I was very happy riding it all the time and didn't mind not having full squish in the back. I sold my fancy carbon fiber EVIL, and got a Ti HONZO. That's how much I loved the HONZO geometry.

If you really have to unload something, be honest when asking yourself which bike you ride the least or don't need. If it's the HONZO, then so be it....my personal opinion is that all serious mtn bikers who own more than one rig should at least have one hardtail.

One sure thing I noticed is that modern hardtail are way more capable than their counterparts from just a few yrs back.

Good luck with your decision, I went thru the same dilmemma - I'M uper happy I kept the HONZO..Ive been riding for over a decade (i'm an OG bike flipper) and this is my favorite bike out of them all...I plan on keeping it indefinitely..

Awesome affirmation for Honzo owners! I've had a similar experience coming from a Nomad.

Which Honzo did you have before you went Ti? How do they compare in terms of front end accuracy, rear compliance, and pedaling stiffness?

Awesome affirmation for Honzo owners! I've had a similar experience coming from a Nomad.

Which Honzo did you have before you went Ti? How do they compare in terms of front end accuracy, rear compliance, and pedaling stiffness?

I had a steel 2016.

The Ti HONZO tracks straight, rear compliance definitely is something that can be felt (even as a comparison from the 2016 steel). Pedal stiffness? Not sure ibunderstand what that is. I csn tell you it's efficient, but that's no surprise as it is a Ti hardtail.

The gam changer for me lies in the fact that the light weight of the Ti frame allows an older and more out of shape version of myself to conserve way more energy for the descents. The HONZO absolutely rips going downhill, I honestly don't feel that I'm going slower riding the HONZO compared to my recent full suspension frames I unloaded. I don't know for sure as I refuse to time my rides.

Disclaimer: HONZO is the lone ranger in my stable for now, but I do have a steel 150mm full suspension frame on order. Should be a perfect 2 bike stable.

Looks like you really don't like carbon fiber frames huh? Honestly I can see why it's not the preferred material for hardtails but in my mind it's clearly preferable for FS applications. When it's designed/laid up right it's soooo strong and stiff that it really forces the suspension to follow it's intended path and do it's thing.

No doubt though steel is where it's at for HT bikes. Might I ask which FS frame you went with? Xprezo?

Hmm you really don't like carbon fiber frames huh? Honestly I can see why it's not the preferred material for hardtails but in my mind it's clearly preferable for FS applications. When it's designed/laid up right it's soooo strong and stiff that it really forces the suspension to follow it's intended path and do it's thing.

No doubt though steel is where it's at for HT bikes. Might I ask which FS frame you went with? Xprezo?

Not xprezo, Cotic.

I'm big on durability as I have a tendency to break shit. ( weird too because I'm a pretty light guy 160, but I ride some rocky/steep stuff so crashes tend to do damage tonbody and bike)

..I sold my evil following before I could have a chance to wreck if so I could fund something that I could have fun riding without worrying that I would break it.

But really, I prefer the feel and compliance of steel or titanium...makes trail riding more interesting/harder.

The mountain bikes these days (especially full suspension) are sooo damned good and well designed these days, they almost make riding too easy sometimes. Hardtails s too, especially the newer 29ers...you can ridebthem so hard.

The Ti HONZO tracks straight, rear compliance definitely is something that can be felt (even as a comparison from the 2016 steel). Pedal stiffness? Not sure ibunderstand what that is. I csn tell you it's efficient, but that's no surprise as it is a Ti hardtail.

The gam changer for me lies in the fact that the light weight of the Ti frame allows an older and more out of shape version of myself to conserve way more energy for the descents. The HONZO absolutely rips going downhill, I honestly don't feel that I'm going slower riding the HONZO compared to my recent full suspension frames I unloaded. I don't know for sure as I refuse to time my rides.

Disclaimer: HONZO is the lone ranger in my stable for now, but I do have a steel 150mm full suspension frame on order. Should be a perfect 2 bike stable.

Good stuff...thanks. Guess I should ask is if it could be too compliant.

I have a 2016 ST, have owned a 2013, a Steely in M and L, an Instigator 2.0, and a few Bizangos. Each has their own unique character and feel that comes from much more than the tubing.

For example...between the Steelys(same frame/different size) I could feel more compliance mostly ondownhill, not so much when mashing on pedals on the L. Must've been from the larger front triangle, because the rear triangle was close to the same. That compliance had a nice damped feel to it.

Now the Instigator...that had thinner tubing with a lot of engineering to it, like a fluted TT that flares out at the head tube. It is very stiff and precise in the front while being very compliant in rear. Unfortunately, the compliance could be felt on both the DH and when mashing. As for the damping, the front being so stiff was precise but a little off put by chatter. The rear was too damped, in that it would absorb bumps and drops but seemed to take too long to rebound.

Obviously there's a lot that goes into these subjective findings. Rider size and style play a huge role, but same rider on different bikes can make some interesting analysis.

Would love to hear you expand on your comparison in terms of compliance, damping, bounce, and pedal efficiency.

Good stuff...thanks. Guess I should ask is if it could be too compliant.

I have a 2016 ST, have owned a 2013, a Steely in M and L, an Instigator 2.0, and a few Bizangos. Each has their own unique character and feel that comes from much more than the tubing.

For example...between the Steelys(same frame/different size) I could feel more compliance mostly ondownhill, not so much when mashing on pedals on the L. Must've been from the larger front triangle, because the rear triangle was close to the same. That compliance had a nice damped feel to it.

Now the Instigator...that had thinner tubing with a lot of engineering to it, like a fluted TT that flares out at the head tube. It is very stiff and precise in the front while being very compliant in rear. Unfortunately, the compliance could be felt on both the DH and when mashing. As for the damping, the front being so stiff was precise but a little off put by chatter. The rear was too damped, in that it would absorb bumps and drops but seemed to take too long to rebound.

Obviously there's a lot that goes into these subjective findings. Rider size and style play a huge role, but same rider on different bikes can make some interesting analysis.

Would love to hear you expand on your comparison in terms of compliance, damping, bounce, and pedal efficiency.

I will compare to the 2016 Honzo Steel as that is the closest comparison I have:

The Ti Honzo is lighter (of course), the only real difference in damping/compliance that is noticable to me is the rear end of the Ti gives more as compared to the St. I feel it more during climbing than anything else.

Going downhill, the Ti is more nimble due to its lighter weight. Is it more compliant, more damped than the steel - YES, the impacts arent as harsh and you get more of a springy feel - the main difference in sensation can be felt in the front end of the titanium frame as it is more forgiving and there are moments when the rear gives me that Ti specific feedback but that isnt as prevalent as the front end compliance.

in short: I feel more compliance in the rear when climbing, and more compliance in the front end when descending. Overall, its a funner bike (than the steel) for an out of shape hack like myself.

I will compare to the 2016 Honzo Steel as that is the closest comparison I have:

The Ti Honzo is lighter (of course), the only real difference in damping/compliance that is noticable to me is the rear end of the Ti gives more as compared to the St. I feel it more during climbing than anything else.

Going downhill, the Ti is more nimble due to its lighter weight. Is it more compliant, more damped than the steel - YES, the impacts arent as harsh and you get more of a springy feel - the main difference in sensation can be felt in the front end of the titanium frame as it is more forgiving and there are moments when the rear gives me that Ti specific feedback but that isnt as prevalent as the front end compliance.

in short: I feel more compliance in the rear when climbing, and more compliance in the front end when descending. Overall, its a funner bike (than the steel) for an out of shape hack like myself.

I just bought a Cotic Solaris because I couldn't get a Ti Honzo . The reviews for the Solaris were excellent and because the parts I ordered came later than expected I had a lot of time to go over the frame. I was disappointed in the construction quality so it might be worth checking your new Cotic over thoroughly. Mine has undercut welds at the bb intesection, a daggy weld on the drive side dropout, paint overspray in the threaded bb shell, head badge falling off out of the box. I think the top tube has been ovalised too much at the seat tube and the sides of the tube extend past the seat tube without wrapping around it. Not quite what I was expecting.

I just bought a Cotic Solaris because I couldn't get a Ti Honzo . The reviews for the Solaris were excellent and because the parts I ordered came later than expected I had a lot of time to go over the frame. I was disappointed in the construction quality so it might be worth checking your new Cotic over thoroughly. Mine has undercut welds at the bb intesection, a daggy weld on the drive side dropout, paint overspray in the threaded bb shell, head badge falling off out of the box. I think the top tube has been ovalised too much at the seat tube and the sides of the tube extend past the seat tube without wrapping around it. Not quite what I was expecting.

Ouxh, good to know and thanks for the heads up....did they take care of you and send you a replacement frame?..why couldn't youbget a Ti Honzo? Last I checked at the end of 2015, Kona had a bunch in stock.

Ouxh, good to know and thanks for the heads up....did they take care of you and send you a replacement frame?..why couldn't youbget a Ti Honzo? Last I checked at the end of 2015, Kona had a bunch in stock.

Apparently I could get a 2013 model Honzo Ti but not a current model with a tapered head tube in Australia in the small size.

I've just built it up figuring it's not worth the hassle. If it made it past QC as it is, and without another frame to compare it against, I figured I'd have a good chance of ending up with the same quality but waiting longer to ride it. Even thoough I had a month to wait for parts I picked up all of those issues in the first five minutes of it being up on the stand.

I'm big on durability as I have a tendency to break shit. ( weird too because I'm a pretty light guy 160, but I ride some rocky/steep stuff so crashes tend to do damage tonbody and bike)

..I sold my evil following before I could have a chance to wreck if so I could fund something that I could have fun riding without worrying that I would break it.

But really, I prefer the feel and compliance of steel or titanium...makes trail riding more interesting/harder.

The mountain bikes these days (especially full suspension) are sooo damned good and well designed these days, they almost make riding too easy sometimes. Hardtails s too, especially the newer 29ers...you can ridebthem so hard.

Apparently I could get a 2013 model Honzo Ti but not a current model with a tapered head tube in Australia in the small size.

I've just built it up figuring it's not worth the hassle. If it made it past QC as it is, and without another frame to compare it against, I figured I'd have a good chance of ending up with the same quality but waiting longer to ride it. Even thoough I had a month to wait for parts I picked up all of those issues in the first five minutes of it being up on the stand.

Hmm... There was no '13 Ti honzo, and the current (first and only) Ti model doesn't have a tapered head tube - it's 44mm like the early honzos, which takes a tapered fork.

Thats a pretty impossible comparison to make...one being a metal framed hardtail, other being a plastic short travel.

So as to not ruffle any feathers, I will keep it short.

Evil Following - climbs amazing, light, rides deeper than its listed 120mm of travel - I would still bottom out more than I would like...so i sold it, got a Honzo and will supplement it with a 150mm travel metal bike

Kona Honzo - back to basic FUN! Low maintenance, super capable going downhill, did i mention it was fun...climbs okay - get a Ti if you want to climb faster, dont upsize and keep the Honzo nimble, its a big boys BMX bike...

thanks for your effort! I'm riding a 2013 Honzo since almost 2 years, coming from an Abra Cadabra...so I'm already enjoying the merits of the simple hardtail
I'm kinda intrigued by the Following though, would love to test it one day, but I'm afraid there's not a single one available for testing where I live...

thanks for your effort! I'm riding a 2013 Honzo since almost 2 years, coming from an Abra Cadabra...so I'm already enjoying the merits of the simple hardtail
I'm kinda intrigued by the Following though, would love to test it one day, but I'm afraid there's not a single one available for testing where I live...

Cheers!

Rynee

The Following is an outstanding bike, really great bike.

Keep in mind that there are a few 29ers that are about to be released that will try and follow the ethos and segment that the Evil Following created...the short travel, playful, super capable 29er trail bike segment is about to explode...

Explore the Following if you can get your hands on one...but know your list of options for a bike of that sort are about to get a longer.

Hey All,
I am currently on a Transition Scout which is a bit more than I need for my typical trails, awesome as the bike is.
I've come across a Honzo frame and was thinking of swapping parts over. Ideally, that would include the 27.5 wheels with some beefy (2.5 minimum) tires. I've seen some 27.5+ Honzo's through searching, anyone else ever ran 27.5's on these? I'm a bit worried about the BB height (also very low on the Scout, about 330mm uncompressed, and not a huge issue but wouldn't want it any lower) but I do like the 27.5 wheels over the 29ers? I should also note I'd be running a 140mm Pike up front so that would help a bit I suppose with the BB height.

If these parts ever come in. Been waiting for days from two different sources for the pedals and cog.. this is the unfortunate reality of dealing with brands that the LBS doesn't distribute.

EDIT: Looks like my cog is not even going to ship until Friday - over a week after the order was placed! Don't shop at Outside Oufitters. I figured it would be pretty fast to order from somewhere in state, boy was I wrong.

Anyone running 35mm carbon rims or similar on the Honzo? How has your ride improved?

Running nextie 35 external/30 internal. I'm 200 lbs and notice the difference more climbing and accelerating, easier and snappier. Descending, the front tracks better and holds a tighter line at speed. The profile improves cornering contact on 2.4 Ardents making knobs bite sooner. It's a nice upgrade that may negate the need for boost but still not necessary in my opinion.

If you're out to have fun, exercise, and adventure a set of flow ex can be stout and reliable and much cheaper. The ride will be different but we all adjust and get used to our bikes. Against the clock, enduro type of descending (some climbing), I'd say if 20 seconds over 5-10 minute segments matter than get them.

Anyone running 35mm carbon rims or similar on the Honzo? How has your ride improved?

I have a set of 35mm LB rims on DT hubs that are usually on my TBLTc. Threw em on the honzo and yaaaaaas! It's good. Only 165 a pop too so it doesn't hurt nearly as much as some other brands. Very happy with them, and the wheels are only about 1530g! Very stiff and strong, and big tires open up nicely on them. Highly recommended.

Interesting... Am I missing something? Has anyone ever lost a chain on a SS setup?

I cannot comment on the rear cog. But I did notice a major improvement when I switched from a normal 32 tooth chainring to a narrow wide one in a SS setup (on a 2011 explosif, which is also using sliding dropouts but Kona's earlier design), using an inexpensive chain. The chain apparently had strechted to different degrees along its length, hence it was not possible to get the correct chain tension. It dropped several times with the standard chainring, but I had no further drops once I bolted on the NW ring.

having said that, on a singlespeed forum many poeple voiced their opinion that the absolute black NW rear cog is overkill.

one more thing to consider is that with the NW profile, you're stuck with an even toothcount for the respective chainring / cog.

I'm getting my 2016 ST, large frame medio feb and really looking forward to build this thing up. But I have a question for you guys: Is there a need to face the BB and chase and face the headtube area?

The build is gonna be a mix of stuff from my old bike and some newer stuff:

I'm getting my 2016 ST, large frame medio feb and really looking forward to build this thing up. But I have a question for you guys: Is there a need to face the BB and chase and face the headtube area?

The build is gonna be a mix of stuff from my old bike and some newer stuff:

Little hard to tell from that photo but it looks pretty good... I prefer to route my right hand controls both across the headtube and run them down the non-drive side of the bike though. I find they rub the frame less that way.

Noot, you should try putting your reverb lever on the left side it makes it look cleaner, but more important easier to drop when needed. also if your on the trail and you need to flip you bike to work on it. the remote lever wont get all scratched/ or worst break.

Noot, you should try putting your reverb lever on the left side it makes it look cleaner, but more important easier to drop when needed. also if your on the trail and you need to flip you bike to work on it. the remote lever wont get all scratched/ or worst break.

when I had reverbs that seem to work well for me.

Thanks for the tip. I had tried mounting it on the left before but couldn't find a place I liked it. I just tried again and found a good spot, but due to where I have my levers the button either points down or up since the reverb remote body has to clear the brake master cylinder. Up is much more comfortable, but at risk for damage I guess... We'll see

Also I finally weighed the bike. 25lbs even, with the heavy rims and overweight NN's (800grams ?!)

Well since I got called out, haha. The front brake line inside the fork is the way to do it. Yes it does lessen the chance of snagging to a small degree but more so protects from rocks crushing it during wrecks.

Also the reverb remote flipped to the left side is how I would run it but I have a left remote. 😞

Yeah noot! Bike looks good but where are the glamour shots you promised?

Well since I got called out, haha. The front brake line inside the fork is the way to do it. Yes it does lessen the chance of snagging to a small degree but more so protects from rocks crushing it during wrecks.

Also the reverb remote flipped to the left side is how I would run it but I have a left remote. 😞

Yeah noot! Bike looks good but where are the glamour shots you promised?

Went and broke her in yesterday. Seriously, I'm not sure I've ever had that much fun on a bike in a long time. And coming off a carbon 27.5 Jekyll as my last bike I'm amazed at how flickable and how much traction this has in comparison.

For those who are rockin' the new Honzo ST frame: How's the tire clearance? Would DHR II 29x2.4WT (61-622, ETRTO) fit fine?

I'm going to be placing an order for a medium ST frame in a couple weeks and will most likely be ordering up the rest of the build around the same time. I can't wait to bash the crap out of this beauty.

Started with a stock Honzo last summer. Almost three seasons of Lake District abuse now just leaves me with the frame, headset, brakes, cranks and BB from the original stock build. It's been one hell of a ride though, safe to say this is the best bike I have ever owned, Honzo for life!

Price mostly, this was meant to have the 120mm float 32s from my other bike but I decided I wanted the bigger travel and thicker stanchions and to turn my other bike ss. Nearly bought some x fusions trace from 2014 for 350 but I went for these in the end for 440. They have the same chassis as the new Lyriks unless I'm misinformed and I'm not too fussed about the dials up top. If I want to upgrade it later I can get it done cheaply through work anyway.

For those who are rockin' the new Honzo ST frame: How's the tire clearance? Would DHR II 29x2.4WT (61-622, ETRTO) fit fine?

I'm going to be placing an order for a medium ST frame in a couple weeks and will most likely be ordering up the rest of the build around the same time. I can't wait to bash the crap out of this beauty.

I don't have experience with that specific tire, but my actual measured 2.5in NoNi has a ton of clearance.