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Topic: IQ Tour Pearl Drilling Layout Help (Read 5922 times)

I have an IQ Tour drilled at 4 1/4 x 4 1/4 x 3 3/4 which puts the pin below and to the VAL side of my ring finger with a P3 X hole. Even though I have traditionally favored pin up over bridge layouts, I love this layout it to the point where I recently shot my first 300 and had a number of honor scores.

I am now looking at getting the IQ Tour Pearl and trying to decide if I should match this layout or tweak it slightly to a more of a pin over ring finger layout and CG kicked out with a P2 or P3 X hole. I have heard one driller tell me that he never likes to drill pearls pin down because it negates the natural length of Pearl coverstock. I have had other knowledgeable folks suggest I go with the same layout as the IQ Tour since I like it so much but it might tame the IQ Pearl a little too much.

I want the ball to go below the IQ Tour in my arsenal when the IQ Tour is too much ball and have a controlled but strong move to the pins (but not a hockey stick shape).

vertical pin position has nothing to do with length especially on a sym core. it only controls reaction to friction or the flip part of skid/flip. pin-PAP length and drilling angle determine the skid phase of the reaction.

The idea with this pin down drilling was to get the ball to read sooner with a controlled back end. With a higher axis tilt and rotation, it is hard for me to get a ball to roll in the oil. I have not tried this on anything but two different houses on different THS but it does what we expected it to do. If I have one comment on it other than I like it is that it reads perhaps a bit too early so I am considering hitting it with some Step 3 to give it just a bit more length.

Normally, for the average crowd, one would not drill a pearl pin down, especially one with a high rg. It has the tendency to burn off tilt too quickly and save nothing for the backend especially as bowlers move inward to chase oil. Essentially you'd be making the pearl into a solid. Thats where people pop 10's and complain that the ball sucks. And for the most part, you pay for a pearl because you want length and backend recovery when the solid is to much up front and not enough on the back.

In this case the Pearl uses a low rg core which helps get the ball started so i dont really see a problem with it. I have one and its drilled 45x4x35 which puts the pin above and slightly to the left of my ring finger (being left-handed). I love how the ball TRULY reads the mids and flips over, whereas, most pearls with a higher rg, like the fire road, are harder to read where the ball is going to hook.

Understand, the Pearl was made to be the "pick up point" from the solid. What I mean by that is, as stated above, when the solid starts popping corners because it doesnt have enough to corner, the pearl will pick up where the solid leaves off. The pearl is one of the most drillable balls ever. I done and seen everything from 6"pin to pap's to double thumbs and everyone has loved them. I see no problem with drilling it pin under to be a 1-2 combo with your solid.