I said Hachiroku because I saw on another thread that you had some sort
of extra-strong, almost paint-eating cleaner you were using on a Matrix
-- there was something about an old man crapping his pants too, but
that's not the focus here.

Looks are something different. Working in a big city as I do, there's
a lot of pollution and general filth that is really starting to eat at
my car. In fact, a few weeks ago I actually found the beginnings of a
RUST SPOT * sob *.

I want my dependable Honda, with its titanium white paint job, to look
as good on the outside as it runs on the inside. Now, I am very leery
of getting a new paint job.

Could I use that extra-strong cleaner to clear away the almost-embedded
grease/oil stains from weekend mechanics such as myself , VOC chemical
stains, etc without seriously ruining my paint job? There are numerous
nicks I suppose from road tar, rocks, etc ... but don't ya think if I
cleaned the hell out of it then put a really strong coat of wax on it,
that it would still look alot better? Also, any ideas for patching
those miniscule little chips and those dirty looking wrinkle features?
And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
the rear wheel well?

I wanna push at least 500,000 mi before I abandon this dependable
lady... and she just laughs at me when I take her to the car wash
(hand wash, laser, or brush... I'm such a DIY freak) help!!

Learning Richard wrote:
> I said Hachiroku because I saw on another thread that you had some sort
> of extra-strong, almost paint-eating cleaner you were using on a Matrix
> -- there was something about an old man crapping his pants too, but
> that's not the focus here.
>
> My 208,000 miles and counting 1992 Honda Accord sedan runs like new.
> Cold AC, no warning lights, good power, and generally a supurb LX
> model.
>
> Looks are something different. Working in a big city as I do, there's
> a lot of pollution and general filth that is really starting to eat at
> my car. In fact, a few weeks ago I actually found the beginnings of a
> RUST SPOT * sob *.
>
> I want my dependable Honda, with its titanium white paint job, to look
> as good on the outside as it runs on the inside. Now, I am very leery
> of getting a new paint job.
>
> Could I use that extra-strong cleaner to clear away the almost-embedded
> grease/oil stains from weekend mechanics such as myself , VOC chemical
> stains, etc without seriously ruining my paint job? There are numerous
> nicks I suppose from road tar, rocks, etc ... but don't ya think if I
> cleaned the hell out of it then put a really strong coat of wax on it,
> that it would still look alot better? Also, any ideas for patching
> those miniscule little chips and those dirty looking wrinkle features?
> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
> the rear wheel well?
>
> I wanna push at least 500,000 mi before I abandon this dependable
> lady... and she just laughs at me when I take her to the car wash
> (hand wash, laser, or brush... I'm such a DIY freak) help!!

"Learning Richard" <learningrichard@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118435290.875431.200430@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
>> the rear wheel well?

That spot you found is rust most likely eating its way out, not in. Water
gets into the arch fold and starts rust on the inside. The only treatment is
to reseal the fold with silicon on the outside, grind out the spot and
either weld or fill with bondo, AND get into the inside wheel arch to treat
the rust there. There'll be more than you see on the outside.

Stewart DIBBS wrote:
> "Learning Richard" <learningrichard@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1118435290.875431.200430@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
> >> the rear wheel well?
>
> That spot you found is rust most likely eating its way out, not in. Water
> gets into the arch fold and starts rust on the inside. The only treatment is
> to reseal the fold with silicon on the outside, grind out the spot and
> either weld or fill with bondo, AND get into the inside wheel arch to treat
> the rust there. There'll be more than you see on the outside.
>

Would it make more sense to do all of that, or to cruise the local
junkyards / ebay for those parts?

Somehow, your original post got lost, and all I saw today was this RE:
My server must have dropped it somehow.

At any rate, I don't know what we use!!! It is from a specialty chemical
co we get our detailing supplies from, and isn't available as a Consumer
Commodity.

The Next Best Thing I can think of; it feels similar, smells similar and
only differes by color AFAIK is made by Castrol, it's called Super Clean
or something like that; it's $5-6 for a gallon, and it's purple.

DON'T USE IT FULL STRENGTH!!!! Maximum 50/50; I'd start even less, like
1/3 cleaner to 2/3 water. You're always better off starting as WEAK as you
can and working your way stronger if you need to. While you're out buying
the stuff (if you're one of those dead set against Wal-Mart, they have it
at AutoZone and CarQuest) get yourself a quart spray bottle with an
adjustable sprayer and some good, regular car wash and a good wax like
Meguire's.

Mix the stuff MAX 50/50. Wet the car like a good wash, and spray ONE area.
Spray it good. DON'T LET IT DRY!!!!!!!! Wash the area with the regular
car wash; shake the cloth/rag/sheepskin before dunking it again...you
don't want to contaminate the wash water. Do another section and wash off.
When washing is will suds up; let it get good and sudsy. Rinse thoroughly
after every section. When you're done washing the car, dry it well and
apply the wax.

Two things: THIS ONLY WORKS WELL WITH WHITE!!!!
and YOUR PAINT WILL BE NOTICEABLY DULL AFTER WASHING!!!

Oh, one more thing....DON'T shit your pants!!!
>
> Learning Richard wrote:
>> I said Hachiroku because I saw on another thread that you had some sort
>> of extra-strong, almost paint-eating cleaner you were using on a Matrix
>> -- there was something about an old man crapping his pants too, but
>> that's not the focus here.
>>
>> My 208,000 miles and counting 1992 Honda Accord sedan runs like new.
>> Cold AC, no warning lights, good power, and generally a supurb LX
>> model.
>>
>> Looks are something different. Working in a big city as I do, there's
>> a lot of pollution and general filth that is really starting to eat at
>> my car. In fact, a few weeks ago I actually found the beginnings of a
>> RUST SPOT * sob *.
>>
>> I want my dependable Honda, with its titanium white paint job, to look
>> as good on the outside as it runs on the inside. Now, I am very leery
>> of getting a new paint job.
>>
>> Could I use that extra-strong cleaner to clear away the almost-embedded
>> grease/oil stains from weekend mechanics such as myself , VOC chemical
>> stains, etc without seriously ruining my paint job? There are numerous
>> nicks I suppose from road tar, rocks, etc ... but don't ya think if I
>> cleaned the hell out of it then put a really strong coat of wax on it,
>> that it would still look alot better? Also, any ideas for patching
>> those miniscule little chips and those dirty looking wrinkle features?
>> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
>> the rear wheel well?

Live with it? ALL Hondas this vintage have this. You could sand/grind it
down, fill it and get some Dupli-color at AutoZone. If the color is, say
2C3 CC, this means a Clear Coat has to be applied to match properly.
Luckily, white is a fairly easy match.

The OTHER thing you could do, if you're leery of using such a harsh
cleaner is buffing the car. You can get a good finish restorer at any
parts store; I prefer 3M Mircrofinish Glaze (actually, if you can find it
get Fill 'n Glaze, 3M P/N 05977. It was discontinued 2 years ago but some
places still have it.) If the oxidation is light enough you can apply it
by hand; the wetter it is, the lighter the effect, as it begins to dry it
begins to cut harder. Rub it on, rub in one direction then allow it to dry
and wipe it off. If this works, great. If not, you may have to buff it
with a rotary buffer. This will remove a lot of oxidation without damaging
the paint, in fact it will make it GLOW! If you are truly a Learning
Richard and not a Lazy Richard (or are perhaps too old to be out farting
around with cars?) this method is the best, but be prepared to spend 6-8
hours doing this! And I always start with the LEAST drastic method first,
this would be a wash and a light polishing with the 3M stuff. If this
doesn't work haul out a buffer and put a little Fill 'n Glaze on the car
and buff it out. Use the Castrol stuff as a last resort!

Good luck...
>>
>> I wanna push at least 500,000 mi before I abandon this dependable
>> lady... and she just laughs at me when I take her to the car wash
>> (hand wash, laser, or brush... I'm such a DIY freak) help!!

OK, then, get out the rags and buy the 3M!!! See you Sunday night, all
worn out!

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 15:58:51 -0700, Learning Richard wrote:
>
>
> Stewart DIBBS wrote:
>> "Learning Richard" <learningrichard@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1118435290.875431.200430@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>> >> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
>> >> the rear wheel well?
>>
>> That spot you found is rust most likely eating its way out, not in. Water
>> gets into the arch fold and starts rust on the inside. The only treatment is
>> to reseal the fold with silicon on the outside, grind out the spot and
>> either weld or fill with bondo, AND get into the inside wheel arch to treat
>> the rust there. There'll be more than you see on the outside.
>>
>
> Would it make more sense to do all of that, or to cruise the local
> junkyards / ebay for those parts?

Yer talking right around the rear wheel, right? This means buying a 1/4
panel and welding it in! And anything in a YunkJard is probably rusted as
bad or on it's way! Grinding, filling and sealing is the easier method.
How are you at sculpting or staying between the lines?

Thank you for the verbose answer. Just what I wanted to know. This is
the first weekend I have free in a month -- I've been Mr. Mom for two
weeks while my wife helped attend to some of her family business from
140 miles away.

Believe me, I'm looking forward to a day of taking care of the old
Honda. If I do a good job (and I'm gonna have to study your answer)
I'll take a few snapshots and post them online.

I'm leaving the rest below for any wayward googlers with the same
problem.
>
> Somehow, your original post got lost, and all I saw today was this RE:
> My server must have dropped it somehow.
>
> At any rate, I don't know what we use!!! It is from a specialty chemical
> co we get our detailing supplies from, and isn't available as a Consumer
> Commodity.
>
> The Next Best Thing I can think of; it feels similar, smells similar and
> only differes by color AFAIK is made by Castrol, it's called Super Clean
> or something like that; it's $5-6 for a gallon, and it's purple.
>
> DON'T USE IT FULL STRENGTH!!!! Maximum 50/50; I'd start even less, like
> 1/3 cleaner to 2/3 water. You're always better off starting as WEAK as you
> can and working your way stronger if you need to. While you're out buying
> the stuff (if you're one of those dead set against Wal-Mart, they have it
> at AutoZone and CarQuest) get yourself a quart spray bottle with an
> adjustable sprayer and some good, regular car wash and a good wax like
> Meguire's.
>
> Mix the stuff MAX 50/50. Wet the car like a good wash, and spray ONE area.
> Spray it good. DON'T LET IT DRY!!!!!!!! Wash the area with the regular
> car wash; shake the cloth/rag/sheepskin before dunking it again...you
> don't want to contaminate the wash water. Do another section and wash off.
> When washing is will suds up; let it get good and sudsy. Rinse thoroughly
> after every section. When you're done washing the car, dry it well and
> apply the wax.
>
> Two things: THIS ONLY WORKS WELL WITH WHITE!!!!
> and YOUR PAINT WILL BE NOTICEABLY DULL AFTER WASHING!!!
>
> Oh, one more thing....DON'T shit your pants!!!
>
> >
> > Learning Richard wrote:
> >> I said Hachiroku because I saw on another thread that you had some sort
> >> of extra-strong, almost paint-eating cleaner you were using on a Matrix
> >> -- there was something about an old man crapping his pants too, but
> >> that's not the focus here.
> >>
> >> My 208,000 miles and counting 1992 Honda Accord sedan runs like new.
> >> Cold AC, no warning lights, good power, and generally a supurb LX
> >> model.
> >>
> >> Looks are something different. Working in a big city as I do, there's
> >> a lot of pollution and general filth that is really starting to eat at
> >> my car. In fact, a few weeks ago I actually found the beginnings of a
> >> RUST SPOT * sob *.
> >>
> >> I want my dependable Honda, with its titanium white paint job, to look
> >> as good on the outside as it runs on the inside. Now, I am very leery
> >> of getting a new paint job.
> >>
> >> Could I use that extra-strong cleaner to clear away the almost-embedded
> >> grease/oil stains from weekend mechanics such as myself , VOC chemical
> >> stains, etc without seriously ruining my paint job? There are numerous
> >> nicks I suppose from road tar, rocks, etc ... but don't ya think if I
> >> cleaned the hell out of it then put a really strong coat of wax on it,
> >> that it would still look alot better? Also, any ideas for patching
> >> those miniscule little chips and those dirty looking wrinkle features?
> >> And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near
> >> the rear wheel well?
>
> Live with it? ALL Hondas this vintage have this. You could sand/grind it
> down, fill it and get some Dupli-color at AutoZone. If the color is, say
> 2C3 CC, this means a Clear Coat has to be applied to match properly.
> Luckily, white is a fairly easy match.
>
> The OTHER thing you could do, if you're leery of using such a harsh
> cleaner is buffing the car. You can get a good finish restorer at any
> parts store; I prefer 3M Mircrofinish Glaze (actually, if you can find it
> get Fill 'n Glaze, 3M P/N 05977. It was discontinued 2 years ago but some
> places still have it.) If the oxidation is light enough you can apply it
> by hand; the wetter it is, the lighter the effect, as it begins to dry it
> begins to cut harder. Rub it on, rub in one direction then allow it to dry
> and wipe it off. If this works, great. If not, you may have to buff it
> with a rotary buffer. This will remove a lot of oxidation without damaging
> the paint, in fact it will make it GLOW! If you are truly a Learning
> Richard and not a Lazy Richard (or are perhaps too old to be out farting
> around with cars?) this method is the best, but be prepared to spend 6-8
> hours doing this! And I always start with the LEAST drastic method first,
> this would be a wash and a light polishing with the 3M stuff. If this
> doesn't work haul out a buffer and put a little Fill 'n Glaze on the car
> and buff it out. Use the Castrol stuff as a last resort!
>
> Good luck...
>
> >>
> >> I wanna push at least 500,000 mi before I abandon this dependable
> >> lady... and she just laughs at me when I take her to the car wash
> >> (hand wash, laser, or brush... I'm such a DIY freak) help!!
>
> OK, then, get out the rags and buy the 3M!!! See you Sunday night, all
> worn out!
>
> --
> The Relentless Pursuit Of Conception...

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