I have installed many different aftermarket EFI systems, and I have to say that the FiTech is as good(or dare I say BETTER) than others that cost 2 and 3x as much like F.A.S.T EZ-EFI and XFI, Holley Sniper and Commander, MSD, etc.Just heard from a customer who went on a 400+ mile road trip to two car shows this weekend with a FiTech system that I recently installed on GM crate 454 in his 1968 C-10 pickup. He said it worked FLAWLESSLY.P.S. - It was the 600hp 30002 system on the 530hp BBC, but I have had great success with the 30003 400hp system on smaller engines like stock 350's

waybad wrote:excellent,, I was wanting to see if these are worth the money,, which one did you get?

I got the 600 hp version with the timing and fan control. I don't think my car has ever idled so cleanly. I do occasionally have a no start/no spark situation I need to investigate further and call their tech line.

The in-tank pump is the slick way to go, but an externally mounted pump is ok as well. The underhood unit(FiTech calls it an FCC- Fuel Command Center) is super simple because it uses the existing mechanical pump to feed it, but there have been some problems with vapor lock and leaks in hotter climate, or when mounted too close to the headers. In an H-body, it's obvious the simple solution is to upgrade the in-tank pump and install a return line.Dwight- Fitech claims their 400hp system will work fine on smaller engines; apparently there are a bunch of air-cooled VW's around Southern California having great success with them. Any self-learning EFI system should be able to handle the light demands of your 215. And if the self learning doesn't quite get it right, there are ways to modify the settings for a custom tune.

spencerforhire wrote:Dwight- Fitech claims their 400hp system will work fine on smaller engines; apparently there are a bunch of air-cooled VW's around Southern California having great success with them. Any self-learning EFI system should be able to handle the light demands of your 215. And if the self learning doesn't quite get it right, there are ways to modify the settings for a custom tune.

That's great news! I should be more up on the air-cooled vw scene..... being "bug dude". I thought the annular (or injectors) would be too big.... but if it works for them I can give it a try. My in-tank fuel pump has died anyway.... might as well upgrade it and add the return line too. BAM! I'm convinced to try it!!!! Thanks.....

cosvega76 wrote:I used an Aeromotive 11569 in-tank pump, had to do some modifications to the Vega bracket to install.

Chuck

Ok Chuck. ..... pics/ details on the modification. I'm gonna try this on a 215 V8 in the Kammback.

What about the return? Just use the vent line to the charcoal canister? My canister is long gone but the hose is still there.

Here's a pic of my vent line/charcoal canister line (I'm holding it)I've rigged up an emergency fuel pump to get me home when the in-tank pump died.... powered by the carb/choke wire..... it is subject to serious vapor lock when hot in this configuration... but it got me home!!!!Obviously, I've had a reason to drop the tank since the pump died.... but now I really have a reason. Just been too hot to mess with anything lately.... mid 90's. (Yes, that's some A/C components through the firewall from the original owner that was unfinished when he died).

Dwight your "vent" line will work but some on-line fuel injection sites [manufacturers sites] don't recommend this, [as of course depending on configuration] as some systems can cause some aeration issues depending on a whole host factors, but others have nothing but praise for this approach, [from the comments sections of said sites and related/linked sites] this leads me to volunteer YMMV. I am going by the Monza sender, the shield present under the Evap. line may make the H-Body quite susceptible to this condition, if you are dropping the tank, read up on the system you think you will obtain and just "Silver Solder a line of the correct diameter in and direct it to the tank floor at a glancing angle away from the pick up and good luck with getting this back in that tiny little hole on top. Sorry I can't give you more right now but still somethings to think about and let's see what else is suggested. Dwight also remember that you will still need an appropriate vent, many use the EVAP line for this so you will have to get a vented cap or reconfigure something else. Let's see what Spencer can add, I am helping my youngest brother somewhat on his 600HP power adder install but we are about a week away from complete and then some for a first test, Spencer is way out in front here! Harry

I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (Soon To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)

My vapor canister line has been gone for decades, so I ran a new 3/8" line back to the tank. I'm not entirely sure a 1/4" line would be sufficient for a return, anyway. The system needs 60 psi, and they stress proper venting of the tank. I used 3/8" since it mates up easily with the -6 AN fittings on the unit.

I wanted to run the return line through the top of the sender, but didn't really have the room for the bulkhead fitting I had planned to use. If you're handy with soldering you should be able to do it that way. I ended up drilling a hole in the side of the tank near the sending unit opening, using a -6, 90-degree bulkhead fitting with a nylon oil pan drain plug washer for sealing. I put a straight hose fitting on the inside, but may go back in sometime and replace it with a 45-degree fitting to aim it more toward the fuel pump.

I had a higher-volume fuel pump in the tank before (off a performance kit for 3rd-gen Camaros), so replacing the pump wasn't an issue. There is an extension bracket to hold the end of the pump that is held on with two screws to the main bracket. I had discarded that for the previous pump and held the pump to the main bracket with a hose clamp. I may go back an install the foam sleeve around the pump someday, because the sound does travel. But you will know if the pump is working!

Unfortunately, I didn't have the foresight to take photos while I was doing it. The way I had envisioned it and the way it worked out were different as I had to engineer on the fly. Plus it was mighty warm in the barn.

Dwight was looking for an aftermarket EFI for his 215 Buick, and it's in the works. FiTech will be debuting a new 2-bbl throttle body at SEMA this year. Designed to be a better system for smaller engines, even 4 and 6-cyl. Might be better that trying to work with their 400hp system which up until now was the smallest they made.

I've had some issues with a no-spark, no-start/long cranking time problem using the internal timing control. They replaced the ECU once but the problem persisted. I was at a car show on Saturday and it wouldn't start when I went to leave. Fortunately, I had the wiring in place to return it to the distributor triggering the MSD box instead. I switched the wires, changed the programming back to Tach, and drove home with just the vacuum advance.

I called their tech line yesterday afternoon and they sent me a software update. Downloaded the software, switched the wiring back, and it fired up with timing control right away. It was REAL fat at first, starting from zero again, but it cleared up. I didn't have a chance to drive it last night, but I'll try it when I get home and see how it runs now.