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Whether with the reinvention of a century-old house or the birth of a young talent, the spring collections kept us on our toes. Here, the 12 that piqued our imaginations most and—dare we say it—challenged the way we think about fashion altogether.

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Talk about going out on a high note. For what turned out to be his final collection for the house, Nicolas Ghesquière showed flamenco-esque ruffles and cropped crisscross tops that smartly redefined sex appeal, but there was also sharp suiting buried beneath the look-at-me elements. Successor Alexander Wang has big (block-heeled) shoes to fill.

Dior

Dior

Though new artistic director Raf Simons gamely took on house signatures (the bar jacket, the ball skirt), his ready-to-wear debut was also quintessential Raf. Infusing it with an effervescence missing from recent seasons via soft pinks, puffs of tulle, and abbreviated shapes, he gave feminine dressing a new, antiprecious sensibility.