Independent designers offer creative clothes

July 21, 2008, 8:48AM

Press Photo/Katie BarnesGrand Rapids artist and clothing designer Sarah Jo Saunders sells her Jo Clothing apparel at the monthly Avenue of the Arts Market on South Division Avenue. Saunders, 28, would "love" to spend all her time sewing and creating handmade wares.

GRAND RAPIDS -- Sarah Jo Saunders isn't looking to be the next Vivienne Westwood, but she would be content to make a career of creating clothing.

"Any time I spend at home is spent sewing," said Saunders, 28, of Grand Rapids. "It's what I love to do."

Saunders, who specializes in comfortable, chic tunics, skirts and dresses, launched Jo Clothing this year. She sells her unique designs monthly at the Avenue for the Arts street fair on South Division Avenue and online through etsy.com.

"My goal is to work for myself," Saunders said. "I would love for that to happen."

The budding designer is part of a growing fashion class in West Michigan. As Internet sales and online shopping open a world of possible consumers, local artists and designers are enjoying the freedom to explore their creative sides.

"We're doing really well ... (our clothes) are going all over the place," said Joleen Rumsey, 34, also of Grand Rapids, who owns Flutter Fashion with Rachel Six, 26, of Grand Rapids.

Flutter -- an inventive collection of sharp jackets and tweed tops -- is less than 2 years old and already is an online success. Rumsey said she is delighted to make money designing and sewing clothes, something that has been a lifetime interest.

Fashion forward

From Pamella DeVos, of successful New York fashion house Pamella Roland, to "Project Runway" alum Daniel Vosovic, West Michigan has produced its share of talented designers. Here are some Grand Rapids fashion artists. If you know of someone we missed, e-mail Tricia Woolfenden at twoolfenden@grpress.com for inclusion in her "New Black" blog at mlive.com/grpress.

Flutter Fashion -- Women's fashions designed by Rachel Six and Joleen Rumsey; flutterfashion.com and flutter.etsy.com, $29.99-$74.99.

Erwin Erkfitz, 27, of Grand Rapids, is an exhibit installer at the Grand Rapids Art Museum and designs T-shirts and other art for his IndeOps line. He likens wearing independently produced clothing to supporting the arts.

"Buying a T-shirt or a handmade garment might not be as expensive as a $1,000 painting ... but it's a way to access art," Erkfitz said. "It's original and of limited production. At the Gap, there's possibly hundreds of thousands of people wearing that same print. Do you want to be different?"

Erkfitz said he sees a correlation between people wanting to "shop local" and the success of local economies.

"People go to the mall and shop at the Buckle or the Gap," Erkfitz said. "Yes, you're spending money in the country, but it would support the local economy to go to a shop on Division Avenue and buy some handmade wares. You keep the local economy going by supporting local people."

Brandy Krause, a Division Avenue artist and designer known as Duchess, hopes more people will turn to Grand Rapids-produced merchandise as the city puts more focus on its creative class.

"A way you can help support our local economy in Grand Rapids is just by buying local clothes," Krause said.

Krause concedes while there are ways for designers to market themselves, it can be difficult to get people to take a chance on something new.

"It's not hard to get the word out there and get your work shown," said Krause, who sells her clothes at Avenue for the Arts and designs costumes for the Super Happy Funtime Burlesque show.

"It is hard to sell. People aren't buying art, and it's really sad," Krause said. "Maybe people don't understand the one-of-a-kind nature of some of it."

Variety, quality

For those who embrace the singular, homegrown appeal of buying clothes made in Grand Rapids, there are various choices, from Erkfitz's graphic, politically charged T-shirts to the vintage "streetwear" quality of Krause's tops and skirts. Budding fashionistas can even get in on the action with original children's clothing by Peppermint Punk.

"It's handmade and it's one-of-a-kind," Sara Dhyne, 27, of Grand Rapids, said of Peppermint Punk. "No other little girl is going to be wearing that outfit. They're almost wearable art pieces."

Dhyne and business partner Brandi Glaske, 27, sell Peppermint Punk outfits on eBay and at craft shows and artists' markets.

Glaske, who has enjoyed sewing since she was 15, said motherhood served as an inspiration to start Peppermint Punk.

"I found myself searching the clothing racks looking for things that were unique, and it was impossible," she said.

The entrepreneur said she is excited to bring something to Grand Rapids that typically might be found only in New York or Los Angeles.

Tough business

It's not always easy to get consumers to invest in up-and-coming designers. Rumsey said people in Grand Rapids have been somewhat hesitant to pay for handmade wares, which tend to be pricier than mass-produced duds.

"People will say, 'I can't pay that much for a tank top,'" Rumsey said. "It might seem like our stuff is high-priced, but people in bigger cities are used to spending the money."

On the other hand, Rumsey said Grand Rapids shoppers are slowly opening to the idea of boutique clothing, such as that sold by Flutter.

"People are starting to recognize it locally," she said.

No matter where designers market their wares, fashion is a tough business, said Pamella DeVos, president of New York fashion house Pamella Roland. The Grand Rapids businesswoman and designer said the market is fiercely competitive and requires a high level of commitment for anyone who wants to make a career of design.

Press Photo/Katie BarnesOn the runway: Kendall College of Art and Design student Lynn Serulla shares the stage with models wearing her designs at a Grand Rapids fashion show.

"If it's not something you love to do, don't do it," said DeVos, whose dresses have appeared in fashion magazines and on high-profile celebrities.

"It's a difficult business. You have to have the passion and love for it," she said.

DeVos said any designer who wants to "make it big" in the fashion industry would have to relocate to New York or Los Angeles, but said there is room for all levels of success.

"If you're going to stay in Grand Rapids, you know your business will be local."

And that's just fine for labels such as Jo Clothing and Flutter Fashion, where the designers love participating in all facets of the creative endeavor.

Saunders, who knits, crochets, does needle felting and makes purses and bracelets, has found the perfect niche with her steadily building artistic empire.

"I love working for myself and making clothes," Saunders said.

For Flutter Fashions, it's also a point of pride.

"It's nice to say, 'This is our business'," Rumsey said. "It's awesome to work for ourselves and make our own rules. It's empowering. You don't get to do that -- make your own rules -- very often in life."