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SA FORADADA

Just outside the town of Deià on the northwestern coast of Mallorca, Spain, a rocky peninsula juts out into the Mediterranean. There, clinging to the edge of tall bluffs, sits the paella restaurant Sa Foradada — named for the peninsula — that Emilio Fernández, 72, opened more than four decades ago.

Their instruments are simple — grill, cast-iron pans — but their saffron-infused brews are anything but, incorporating squid, cuttlefish, mussels, prawns, clams, crab legs and sea bream, all plucked from the water below. True to Valencian tradition, tables are communal, dishes served family style.