It appears some of you are in the dark or unable to grasp the concept that this Mosaic virus which is kicking many asses out there in the cannabis realm is real!

Doing some research into the fact that this was the first virus ever discovered in the 19th century and yes it's still alive and kicking today,,,being spread around from grow to grow simply because so many numbskulls want to remain stupid!

It is easy to distinguish from ph swings and nute deficiencies and insect damage, but yet many continue to breed sick plants and spread the disease to others via seed stock,or infected cuts..

Failure to learn the symptoms will result in a widespread and wholesale spread of this nasty ass disease...

All this was copied and pasted from a few different links, hope you enjoy.

Here is some details about it for starters..

Tobacco Mosaic Virus

Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) has been at the center of virus research since its discovery over a hundred years ago. TMV was the first virus to be discovered. Late in the 19th century, researchers found that a tiny infectious agent, too small to be a bacterium, was the cause of a disease of tobacco plants. It then took 30 years of work before the nature of this mysterious agent became apparent. In a Nobel-prize-winning study, Wendell Stanley coaxed the virus to form crystals, and discovered that it was composed primarily of protein. Others quickly discovered that there was also RNA in the virus. Then, many prominent structural researchers (including J. D. Bernal, Rosalind Franklin, Ken Holmes, Aaron Klug, Don Caspar, and Gerald Stubbs) used X-ray diffraction and electron microscopy to probe the structure of the virus. A Helical Virus

Several structures of the whole tobacco mosaic virus are available in the PDB, including the ground-breaking one solved by X-ray fiber diffraction (shown here from PDB entry 2tmv), and a recent structure solved by analysis of many electron micrographs (PDB entry 2om3). The virus is composed of one strand of RNA (shown in red) wrapped inside a sheath of protein (shown in blue). The protein coat is composed of about 2130 copies of a small protein, which stack like bricks in a cylindrical chimney. The RNA strand encodes four proteins, which together orchestrate the life cycle of the virus. These include two proteins that replicate the viral RNA, a protein that transports the RNA from cell to cell, spreading the infection, and the capsid protein seen in the PDB structures. TMV Infection

Tobacco mosaic virus is very stable, so stable that it can survive for years in cigars and cigarettes made from infected leaves. The viral RNA is infectious by itself, but the addition of a protein coat protects the RNA from enzymes that would destroy it. The protein coat poses a problem, however: it must be removed once the virus gets inside a cell. TMV uses two tricks to release its RNA. As with many viruses, TMV has a chemical switch that causes the protein to change when the environment changes. The capsid protein has several clusters of acidic amino acids that are stable outside of cells, where calcium levels are high, but repel one another in the low-calcium conditions inside cells. This is enough to loosen the first few capsid proteins, releasing the end of the RNA. TMV then uses ribosomes as the engines to finish the job. As the ribosomes move down the strand, creating the first set of virus proteins, they displace the remaining capsid proteins.

I will post pictures to help you to ID the multiple symptoms that are prevalent as the plant has the virus spread via protein manipulation..

Many times it will appear the plant is healthy to the untrained eye...

The chlorophyll has blistered and is damaged throughout the fan leaves,this is due to the protein replication,this will go on to totally bleach out only a week or two into flower,as it cannot handle the lumens from the lighting and burns up..

This is where many seem to think they did something wrong!

It's not the grower it's a symptom...

the pics above are later in veg ..

These symptoms are but one of many as the disease progresses it goes through stages and each stage will have varying symptoms.If you have a stress free environment the symptoms may not appear until into flowering.Stress is what makes the symptoms appear and surface quickly.

Early on in the first 45 days from a seedling you may have a sudden halt in healthy growth and suddenly you find the nodes have yellowed,dried up and are stunted..

Growth at this point is slowed to a crawl and the plant takes on a real unhealthy appearance.It may take weeks for it to overcome this state and move on..Here is where many make the mistake of feeling it was a result of an error on their partand they have recovered,so they move on..

All the while they are handling their plants,taking cuts etc...and infecting their whole garden..

1). most vegetation that is exposed to light bleaches out and is utterly destroyed within the initial 14 days of 12 hour photoperiod.

2). The virus goes full on and stunts the growth of floral production and prevents any resin production almost completely...

The growth takes on a brown and yellowish hue and is coated in a powdery sheen which is very unique..

I do not have pics of the burnt ,bleached leaves as I deleted all of them,,but will present some very soon.

I do however have the latter symptoms..

This death of the floral production usually always starts at the bottom and will progress it's way upward,consuming all hope of any successful harvest.

1). most vegetation that is exposed to light bleaches out and is utterly destroyed within the initial 14 days of 12 hour photoperiod.

This symptom is easily identified by the first pics I have posted at the top...

it is all but assured that the bleaching will occur and a lost harvest once you see this happen as the chlorophyll is permanently damaged and rendered useless.

Another common symptom that may present itself at any time,but primarily in veg,,is the twisted contorted leaf..

This has always been accompanied by a chlorophyll discoloration localized to that leaf in the twisted vicinity...

That was a very nice C99 gal that was infected by a Blueberry x NL batch of seedlings which were under suspicion and my suspicions were correct...

Everything must be destroyed fully and sterilization of every and all areas is mandated.

Not one bug is allowed to live,,,and I'm talking about every damned fungus gnat,spider mites,thrips etc....

The best disinfectant is Calcium hypochlorite or pool shock treatment.....usually a granular formula that is cheap and maximizes all sterilization of toughprotein type viruses,,,,this virus will live and spread from the smallest particle of dried leaf vegetation on the floor,,,,how many grow rooms have this ?

It will live for years in this dried form....

If that doesn't give you an indication of what you are up against then I feel you mayquit any hopes of a successful grow if you experience this virus.

Do NOT dispose of the infected plant matter in any area around your home or garden,,,it will infect all your vegetables as quick as it did your herb.

also a note on mixing HTH pool shock for example,,this is 50% calcium hypochlorite ,,you may find it up to 75% if you shop around..

Do not mix it with water and breathe the fumes it creates ,it is very detrimental to your health w/o massive air ventilation..

I use it to scrub all surfaces and flush out all hydroponic systems,,,

5 gallon buckets filled with this shock and water will be great for sterilizing all pots,utensils,net pots, trays etc....

Yes it is very easily spread via vectors...

Vectors are your hands,scissors,razor blades,pots ,or anything that may make contact with the roots and then touch another plant organism,,via foliage or roots...

Examples I have personally experienced over the years with this virus...

Hydroponic res.....

Any shared res will infect all plants that are in it within hours via the roots,,,once a cycle takes place and the solution is shared and makes contact with all roots,,,it's over ! they are all infected.

Used soil with any residual roots from a suspect plant will infect anything it comes in contact with,,roots of infected plants are highly contagious with regards to transmission.

Insects!!

The biggest vector of all....

Fungus gnats and spider mites will spread it so quick it will make your head spin...

A fungus gnat will lay it's larvae,,they will consume,ingest infected plant roots and mature pupae into a now mobile adult with wings..

Guess what? it carries this virus now in it's body and lays eggs on your rapid rooter plugs,rock wool cubes, hydroton they munch on the roots and the virus spreads to other rooms and propagation stages altogether..

Maybe now you see how serious this is????

Spreading

A infection of mozaïkvirus occeurs mostly in the summer or in the fall,when winged bugs like leave louse appear.Leave louse transmit the virus verry easy.While working in the garden men can transmit in some small occaisions.Spreading tru seed or soil is not possible.The virus has many carryers,among them are salad and garden weeds,in these the virus can survive,the virus also acceurs in other^plants like tobaccoplants,tomatoes,cucumbe rs,ect..crosscontamination is possible..(cannabis infecting tomato and vise versa)The moment the plant has been infected there is no cure for it....clones of this plant will also carry this virus..

Effects on the plant

The effect on the plant are verry divers,the plant will never be able 2 use its full potential because the state of the leave wont permit fotosynthese as good as on a healty leave.The virus exists out of small rods of about 700 nanometer long.the virus belong 2 the group of potyvirusses.the plant will never be a topper,1 thing is surten the plant will show problems and will stay a back of any other.

How 2 battle it..As written before there is no cure for this virus?once the plant has it its not removeable.Inviromentfactors are importand though.A plant that has a stable surroundingstemperatur of 21C°+ wont have as much problem as other way around..so keeping the Temp above 21C° is a must

PreventionFirst of all you need 2 provide a clean room,be shure and try 2 repel all bugs inside a room.And always wash your hands before toutching the plants....you should have done it by now...if your clonefarmer's plants carry this virus is there 99% chance you'll also get it in your room.in princible you already can see i on a clone when the plant has the infection...so watch out carefully.if a plant shows some odd charicaristics just refuse and go somewhere else.

you can ofcaurse take some precautions and take cloningmatters into your own hands...next 2 that growing from seeds will lower the threath of you getting it in the room.

Will it Cost MeWill it cost me?...the answer 2 this is YES it will cost ya..because your plant has a virus ,does't make as much leave ,slows the fotosynthese ect...this plant wont be able 2 produce as much as a healthy 1.if you keep it above 21C° damage will be smaller but for outside plants they will have more damage bacause our country has not as high temps over 21C° or higher.

History of the tobaccovirus (in short ...TMV)TMW is the first virus that has been proven.The existance of the virus is confirmed in 1889,when a researcher began 2 sterillise the soil with a infected plant in it,after the sterillisation plants still became sick in that same soil.bacteria namely exist out of eggwhite that begins 2 harden when if reaches 100C°+...Because of this they came 2 the conclusion that bacteria where not the cause of this sickness.@ that time they probably did't know it woz a virus ...they just knew it woz't bacteria becoz of the sterillisation.

Foto

In 1946 the nobelprize woz awarde for chemestry...for the person that made a virus visible for the first time,this woz TMV..(see pic)Because of the many quantities of the viruses and because it woz't dangerous 2 humans or animals this virus woz ideal for further examination for virusses.

Biolegie of TMVbiologistes try to marke everything is diffrent catagories,they also try 2 catagories these virusses in separate catagories.All forms of tobaccovirus fall under the name Potyvirusses...this catagorie is made on base of sympthoms and the presents of the virus.The presents of the virus,only in plants and the primearie consecuence is grow inhibited by the cells of the plant,this only goes for Potyvirusses.

TMV is a ssRNA virus,that means a sigle strain RNA virus.with its buildingblocks documented on 1 single RNA strain.

it all get verry complicated now....in slowmotion....you know DNA right?that big database in stairform,RNA is a small copie of a piece of DNA that transforms the information into a assingment for the cell...(in short that is)

When a RNA virus penetrates the cell it immediatly starts 2 reproduce new viruses in the cell,this allows the cell 2 be infected.the spreading of the virus does not depend on cellformation.Cells will be buisy producing viruses and thus wont be procucing as much cells and slow down its cell formation in its infected sections.so in our case veg and flower will quickly show some shortages.

Other shapesthe virus does have some brothers,they all causes there own sympthoms.Its not only the TMV virus we have trouble with...other forms do occour with our girls...downhere other forms and other outer charicaristics are written...

1.Tobacco mosaic virus - 151, Tobamo ->our best know species,bended/curld leaves and obvious pattern on the leaves.....ime this kind shows more yellow on the leaves

2.Tobacco leaf curl virus-Begomo (Geminiviridae) -> does't show discolorments only curld/bended leaves because of lesser celldevelopment in the plant.

Virus can be passed on through seed, according to some of the research done on plant viruses. Viruses can also be dormant or non-symptomatic in perfectly healthy individuals, but then manifest when the organism's health is affected by another factor, and then go away when ideal health is once again achieved. The most common example of this is the cold sore... a herpes virus which never goes away, but the symptoms only manifest when the person's health is affected by something else.

Not sure of the cause of the variegation in the Chem, but know for sure that it will not show up much at all in a dialed in garden.

Physan 20 has been shown to stop TMV on tobacco. I do not know of it's effects on cannabis, if any. However it is an all around anti-viral, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, which is safe to use on cannabis.
This is everything I have on Physan (can't remember where I got this):

Physan 20

I use physan to make sure sterile seedlings go into sterile coco.
Once they are up with seed leaves open gathering light,
I water them daily with pH 6 water for a week, then go to weak nute... when the seed leaves start to yellow I start to increase food...
I have never used a mat, but the room is climate controlled...

One other thing I do, that may be merely superstition but seems to hold true anecdotally, is to germ seeds only during a waxing moon... they seem healthier to me, but I have no hard data proving so...

Quote:
SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWERS

Cut Flowers in containers, tubes, and decorative vases - Bacterial Stem Plugging.
To eliminate stem plugging (which restricts uptake of water) and to control bacteria and fungi (which create ethylene gas, a cause of petal drop), flower spikes should be hardened by keeping the stems in PHYSAN 20 solution during harvesting, storage and shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

Seeds and Seedlings - Damping Off
Treat seeds and seedlings by soaking in a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water for 5 minutes. Fill the flask containing the seed or seedlings with enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the seeds/seedlings. Drain the PHYSAN 20 solution off the seeds/seedlings before planting. Use a fresh solution of PHYSAN 20 for each flask.

Seedlings - Damping Off (ornamental plants only)
Make a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Soak seedlings in PHYSAN 20 for 5 minutes. Use a soak container large enough to completely immerse one flask of seedlings at a time. Change the solution daily or more often if solution becomes visibly dirty.
If a garden soil is used for planting seedlings, completely saturate the soil in PHYSAN 20. Place the soil in a pot or tray and add enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the soil. Let the solution drain through the soil or pour off excess.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

PHYSAN 20 solution is effective in stopping the spread of damping off when sprayed on seedlings. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water or 2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

Seedlings - Downy Mildew (Ornamental Plants only)
Most common on seedlings. The fungus sporulates on the lower surface of leaves as a white, sparse downy growth. The disease can cause the death of aerial plant parts. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet with Physan20 solution at 5-day intervals until under control.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water.

Quote:
CORROSION AND DAMAGE TO MATERIALS: PHYSAN in use dilutions, will not damage or mar natural rubber, glass, painted or plastic surfaces. It is non-corrosive to all metals in normally used applications for swabbing, mopping and rinsing. PHYSAN is non-flammable and non-explosive.

VIRUCIDAL ACTIVITY: PHYSAN has been tested and proven to be effective in controlling Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) on hard surfaces and tobacco leaves. TMV is the most stable of the viruses which are pathogenic to plants. PHYSAN’s ability to control TMV may indicate that it would be a good product to control other viruses.

PHYTOTOXICITY: PHYSAN generally is not phytotoxic to plants at concentrations below 400 ppm (1/4 ounce per gallon of water). However, this can vary depending on the type of plant and its stage of growth.

Viruses rarely kill Cannabis. They only exist and replicate in living plants. Viruses can, however, seriously reduce yields. Once acquired, they are nearly impossible to eradicate. Viruses invade all parts of plants. Pollen and seed infections transmit viruses to subsequent generations.Five viral syndromes are described in the literature. In addition to these naturally-occurring infections, Hartowicz et al. (1971) screened 22 common plant viruses for their ability to infect wild hemp. Over half the viruses could infect Cannabis.The hemp streak virus (HSV) is frequently cited on fiber cultivars in Europe. Foliar symptoms begin as a pale green chlorosis. Chlorotic areas soon develop into a series of interveinal yellow streaks or chevron-stripes. Some-times brown necrotic flecks appear, each fleck surrounded by a pale green halo. Flecks appear along the margins and tips of older leaves and often coalesce. Streak symptoms predominate in moist weather, flecks appear during dry weather. Leaf margins become wrinkled and leaf tips roll upward, leaflets curl into spirals. Whole plants assume a "wavy wilt" appearance.The hemp mozaic virus (HMV) has been described on fiber cultivars in Europe and drug cultivars in Pakistan. Symptoms were described as a gray leaf mosaics. Three other viruses have been cited on European hemp—the alfalfa mozaic virus (=lucerne mozaic virus), cucumber mozaic virus, and the arabis mozaic virus. Many insects transmit these viruses as they feed from plant to plant. According to Ceapoiu (1958), the worst vectors of Cannabis viruses are bhang aphids (Phorodon cannabis), greenhouse whiteflies (Trialeudodes vaporariorum), onion thrips (Thrips tabaci) and green peach aphids (Myzus persicae).

hey DR....yeah your plants liik like they ,might be infected, a classic symptom is the "chlorine look", but infact it has nothing to do with chlorine, i right now have 3 infected plants, but im not about to scrap my grow.

this virus is like herpes, it flares up from time to time, the symptoms may never go away, but your plants will still produce good bud, but the plant may reduce in yeild, you may only see a reduction in yeild only 3-4 grows away.

imo the best thing you can do is to do as much research into viruses in hemp and cannabis, and see what is safe to use. then when your crop is done, and the room is clear treat all walls and equipment with physan 20, then segregate your mom in its own chamber and treat it with somthing that will work but not harm the smoker or plants.

from what i read i heard ppl saying that the best thing to do is "cook" your clone at 120 degrees to kill all bacteria, then use the tissue to culture a clone....but im not too familiar with tissue culture.

i Have a case of thrips, i just used co2 @ 10000ppm to kill them. i was talking to someone with a botany degree on another site and heres what he said

CO2 is will not harm plants if over 4000ppm. THATS WRONG.I have my botany degree from ASU andmis information like that is bad.

I DO KNOW

HIGH LEVELS OF CO2 WILL NOT HURT YOUR PLANTS

You need to run your system at 10000ppm 3x a day 3 hrs each time day and night for 3-5 days, it does not matter when you run CO2, day or night it will not hurt your plants. We have been doing it this way for over 15yrs.Kids and their mis info lol

I've been posting this method since 1998, first time at Nan's Nook and Mycotopia, and then the Shroomery - pre 2002.

It's a proven method and works. Many peeps have done it.

fruit emits ethelyne during the ripening process, so if you have unripened apples, peaches, etc, you place them in a paper sack and close it, and the gas make them ripen faster, produce packers use ethelyne gas chambers to help ripen fruit faster for the market. not CO2

I really wouldn't worry about venting to much, too much fear of the unknown, just open the door and vent.So many mis truths about CO2. you would need to be locked into a fully gassed room for any CO2 effects to affect you in any form or fashion.LMAOThere is no way you will harm your self unless you shut yourself in and lock the door and fall asleep. people just have no clue.wives tales, and urban myths for sure.

so for those of you that are looking for an easy inexpensive way to kill these virus spreaders(bugs), one 20 lb tank will last you enough time to kill any bug in your garden, and its non toxic to your plants and the smoker.