Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 Fashion Show

It was just a year ago that Jeremy Scott sent his ode to Mickey D’s down the runway at his Moschino debut. So much has happened since then: a new fragrance dubbed Moschino Toy and advertised as the “world’s cutest perfume”; a just-opened L.A. flagship and a New York location on the way; Katy Perry flying over the 50 yard line at the Super Bowl in a star-spangled dazzler with a Moschino tag inside. Scott is nothing if not productive.

Just eight days after he presented his eponymous collection in New York, he was back on the runway tonight with his best Moschino collection yet. Scott’s loving tributes to pop-culture icons McDonald’s and Barbie were honest-to-goodness social media phenomena, but it was time to try something else. His solution was to look at the street, a fairly popular fashion meme lately—see the success of HBA, VFiles, and even Kanye West x Adidas Originals—but this wasn’t a case of me-too-ism. Scott’s street is colorful, sexy, and altogether irrepressible. Next year’s polar vortex will be a hell of a lot easier to take in his glossy sleeping-bag coats and vests.

Though they’ll probably sell like crazy, the show could’ve used less of the Looney Tunes sweaters and sports jerseys that came out next. Scott knows his fashion inside out, and we would’ve been happy to see more of the smart, subtle stuff: neon camouflage that could’ve been a shout-out to Stephen Sprouse circa his LV collaboration, or the tighty-whitey separates and tweaked and tailored denim that looked like a tip of the cap to Marky Mark-era Calvin Klein. With the street as his starting point, Scott made it a priority to study graffiti, and it showed in the terrific finale dresses. He got the details exactly right, all the way down to the “Hello, My Name Is” stickers that were slapped on some of the spray paint designs.