M.Patmos Crossover Crewneck

M.Patmos, a New York City-based clothing label, and Purl Soho share a commitment to fine craftsmanship, function, comfort, and elegance, and so, to reflect our mutual admiration, together we created this very special M.Patmos Crossover Crewneck Pattern!

To begin, Purl Soho chose one of our very favorite M. Patmos sweaters, one with timeless style and modern, unexpected details. Then, we translated it from a ready-to-wear sweater into a hand-knitting pattern. M.Patmos’s sweater is no longer for sale, but its design lives on here as a knitting adventure!

The M.Patmos Crossover Crewneck has the appearance of simplicity and the beauty of surprising moments: an asymmetrical hem, a crossover yoke, and subtle selvages and shaping. Not necessarily for beginners, this Pattern is full of the kind of details that more advanced knitters appreciate!

We knit this incredible sweater in our equally incredible Cashmere Merino Bloom. A beautiful blend of extra fine merino and soft cashmere, it is perfectly suited for such an exquisite knit!

Thanks for writing in! You can certainly do this in Flax Down. I would divide Flax Down’s yardage by however much yardage you’ll need for the size you plan on making. This will tell you how many skeins to buy. Best of luck!

This is beautiful!! Can you suggest other yarns that would be suitable for this project? I notice there are only a handful of colors in the Cashmere Merino Bloom (and it’s quite spendy!). Would Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor be a good alternative?

Thank you for writing in! We hear you, the Cashmere Merino Bloom can be a pricey! Arbor would be a good alternative, however, it does have less yardage (145 yrds) than our Cashmere Merino (218 yds) so, you would need to buy more. To figure out how much you’ll need for the size you plan you making just divide the yardage of Arbor by however much yardage you’ll need for the size you’ll make. Here are some other great alternatives to the Cashmere Bloom:

Thanks for writing in! Knitting a cropped version will be quite involved in terms of knitting math. Firstly, your cast on would change because you’d be starting much higher on the torso and would only have so many rows to get to the underarm. This means you’d have to cast on more. To determine this you’d have to estimate how much you’d like to crop off, figure out how many increases would have occurred in the cropped portion and then cast on however many stitches would have been increased in that space. The short rowing at the beginning would increase also, but this is a much subtler change and isn’t necessary. If you do it, let us know how it goes!

Thank you for your question! You can use Mulberry Merino as a substitute, however, it does have a different gauge than the Cashmere Bloom. Because of this I recommend making a gauge swatch. The Gauge swatch will help you determine if you need to adjust your needle size to get the gauge of the pattern. If you have any questions regarding this please let us know! Again, thank you for writing in!

I really would like to make this sweater , even if it is a bit pricy I don’t mind,I already made a lot of your free patter with great succes for daughter and daughter in law.
But I can’t find how to buy it,I put it in my basket and then I don’t know where to go to pay,can you help me or do I have to wait for a grandchild to help?
I also would like to make the lovely brassiere you sell in kit,but I leave in France and need only the brassiere’ s pattern could it be avalaible(quite soon because we are expecting our 8th grandchild who will be the last one
Anyway thanks a lot for your pattern that I enjoy a lot

Thanks for writing in! Once you place the pattern in your shopping basket, you will want to click on the shopping basket icon in the upper right hand corner of the screen. You will then see a drop down and you should click on “Checkout”. This will then take you through the process of checking out!

I have purchased the pattern, and would like to make the body in a solid color, with the sleeves in a variegated yarn. Do you have a guesstimate as to how much of the yardage in the pattern is for the sleeves? Thank you.
Best,
Kathlyn

I just finished making this sweater in the Purl Soho Cashmere Marino Bloom in Dove Gray. What an amazing pattern! Worth every penny for those of you who balk at the price (especially when so many free patterns are provided). It is very well thought out, every detail makes sense and explanations are perfect. There were some challenging times, but the explanations were perfect and the access to the online tutorials make this beautiful sweater a breeze, as long as you do exactly what they tell you to do. What a treat! I loved making this sweater. Now I am moving onto the Botanical Yoke Sweater. Thank you Purl Soho!

Thank you for this wonderful comment! You have really made my day! I too have made this sweater and I found it to be both challenging and very much enjoyable. Thanks again and I hope you’ll like the Botanical Yoke Sweater pattern.

Hi,
could you please tell me if the ease is included or not in the finished chest circumference ?
For instance : if my measure is 37.5, should I make the 37.5 pattern, or the 39.5 pattern ?
Thank You for your answer,
Nathalie

Thanks for the question. The ease is not included in the finished measurement. The finished measurement is the actual measurement of the garment. So, if you have a 37.5″ chest, you should consider doing the 39.5″ finished garment or the size above depending on your ease preferences. Thanks!

Thanks for writing in! I have not worked with Cascade Longwood Worsted but based on the specifications for the yarn, I would not recommend using it for this pattern. The Cashmere Merino Bloom that we used for this lovely sweater has a gauge of 5-5.5 stitches per inch and the Cascade Longwood has a gauge of 4.5 stitches per inch. This difference is fairly significant when working on a garment where fit is important. You certainly could knit a gauge swatch on the recommended needles for this project and see if you can get gauge and if you like the quality of the fabric at gauge. My main worry is that the fabric at gauge using this yarn would be too stiff. However, having not worked with it, I would suggest that you knit the gauge swatch and see what you think of the fabric.

Thanks for writing in. I’m sorry we don’t have your size in this sweater. Maybe if you try doing one of the sizes in a worsted weight you’ll be able to get a size that works for you. The cast on is roughly equal to the hip measurement, so you can gauge which size to follow in worsted weight from there. Hope this helps a bit.

Thanks for writing in! The gauge of Far is 4-4.5 stitches per inch and then gauge for Cashmere Merino Bloom is 5-5.5 stitches per inch. This makes them fairly different! That said, if you knit a gauge swatch for this pattern using the suggested needles for the sweater and the Far and you like the fabric, you can carry on with the sweater!

Thanks for writing in. I think that the Cascade Longwood Worsted will be do large of a gauge for this sweater. The gauge for this is 5.25 stitches per inch and the Longwood’s gauge is 4.5 stitches per inch. Sorry about that! A DK weight yarn or a different pattern for a worsted will definitely be better. Thanks!

I am working on this sweater at the moment and it is indeed a challenging but fun project. Just wondering if there has been any correction to the pattern. Am knitting the Left Front and shaping the shoulders. From the pattern the left shoulder has the edging but on my piece the edging is on the right. Have been retracing my steps and did everything correctly. Am I missing something? Appreciate your help. Thank you.

Thanks for the question. Maybe you are referring to the wrong shoulder. The face side (knit side) of your left front should have the edge stitches on the left. I think you are working on the right front right now. Not a problem though! You can work the right front before the left front — you just need to make sure you follow the right front directions. Thanks!

Have unpicked my work and started again and still lost. When shaping the crew of the Left Front, the pattern states to work on the right side row and knit 27, bind off 22 and knit and create the edge. You will end up with the Left shoulder being 27 stitches and the Right shoulder, 26 stitches. That being said, won’t the right shoulder be where the edge stitches are? Sorry for the trouble but can’t seem to work it out. Appreciate your help.

If you lay the piece out with knit side facing you, you should be working the section furthest to the left. This means that your stitches for the back panel will be to your right. If this is what you see, then you’ll want to follow directions for the left front. You should be thinking about this as left armhole and right armhole because the crossover hits both your left and right side. I can see how this is confusing. With the right side facing you, the selvedge edge should be to your far left and you will begin knitting on the right side from the left armhole out, binding off and then continuing to the edge. I really hope this clears it up!

That helps to clear the confusion. I have since ignored the left and right shoulder instructions and knit this step according to where the edge stitches are. Have got past this step now and it turns out the same as the design. Must be doing it right 🙂 Thanks for your help!! Appreciate it.

Hi Adam,
I am working the left front (shape armhole and left front) and I am a little stuck. When it says to knit the left front and armhole at same time, am I putting both the left front stitches AND the armhole stitches on the same needles? So, when I knit the “work 1 wrong side row…will I have already put the armhole stitches on the needle and knit those “as established” until I am ready to decrease?
Thanks for any help you can provide over email.

Thanks for the question. At this point you should have divided the body up in right front, back and left front stitches. The left front and armhole are worked in the same section. With your work facing right side up your left front section is the furthest to the left, in between the edge and the stitches on hold. Your back and right front sections will be knit up at a later time. Make sure you read the entire “left front and armhole” section to make sure you work both simultaneously. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks for writing us! The Cotton Pure could be an option if you are able to get gauge. While the gauges are similar, they are not exactly the same (vastly different fibers) so you might have to play with a few different needle sizes. Best of luck and happy knitting!

I have since laid out my knitting and the measurement is spot on. I now have another question, which is similar to Nicole about the left front. I’ve followed your instructions re laying the piece out with knit side facing me. You are saying the far left is the left shoulder? The one with the edging? I’ve been thinking that’s the right side seeing it will be on my right shoulder. The pattern reads knit 30, bind off 26 then knit to 5 stitches and edge. Now left shoulder is 30 stitches which comes down to 21 with the dec around crew neck. Using your explanation above, the 21 stitches that was originally the left you are now calling right? After I have done my wrong side row and ready to work on the shoulders (of the left side) I have the shoulder without the edging ready to go. Is this correct? I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for writing in! I am so glad to hear that the sweater is going well! I think that you have it correct. It can be a bit confusing because the left side of the front crosses from the left to the right. For purposes of clarity about the left versus the right side, we are referring to the left shoulder and the piece on the left front that will join at the right shoulder as both the left side. The left side will be the side with the edging even though it will eventually meet up with the right side.

I hope that this clears things up and please do not hesitate to reach out with any further questions!
Cassy

Please can you help? I have reached the section Shoulders & Neck pge9. Where the crossover occurs this means there are 3 shoulder pieces to be joined compared with 2 on the other side. Is this correct? If so, does this require joining stitches held on 3 separate needles?
I’m a UK knitter (relatively inexperienced) so maybe my interpretation is lacking.
Many thanks

Thanks for writing in! What an ambitious project! This pattern can be a bit challenging! Once you have made it to the shoulders, you will be joining just two sets of stitches on each side. This is because the crossover section was joined in on page 7 with you continuing to work the backs and fronts separately until you join at the shoulders. Thus when you join the shoulders, you will have stitches from just the front and the back of each side that you will join with a 3 needle bind off.

I just purchased the pattern and can’t wait to start. I am not a very experience knitter so my question my be a little silly.

On the cast on, it listed to cast onto longer, larger circular needles. In this case, does it mean the US6 32in? Also it didn’t say when to change the needle size. Do I continue to use the US6 circular 32in?

Thanks for writing in! You have it correcting! You will be picking up 1 stitch in every bound of stitch and then 3 for every 4 around the neck, skipping some stitches. Because stitch gauge and row gauge differ (knit stitches are wider than they are tall), in order to get a pleasing looking pick-up, you generally pick up at a different rate than every stitch. This will depend on the pattern but here, it will be 3 for 4!

I’m currently working on this and I believe I may have found an error to the pattern. On pg 5, under the heading of Shape Left Shoulder it talks about working the 5 edge stitches as established. Those 5 stitches are only on the right edge, making it ambiguous as to where one should be working (the stitch count and the title line up for the left side, so that’s what I went with, but needlessly confusing).

Hello Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out! I hope I can help. Maybe you are referring to the wrong shoulder. The face side (knit side) of your left front should have the edge stitches on the left. I think you are working on the right front right now. Not a problem though! You can work the right front before the left front — you just need to make sure you follow the right front directions. I hope this clarifies things for you and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla

I love the sweater and want to purchase the pattern, but I’m not sure if I have the skills to do it. I made some of the patterns in the site, such as the purl soho 2017 pullover, the top + botton, the crossover top. Do you think I’ll be able to perform this sweater? Thank you.

Hello Erica,
Thank you for reaching out! This sweater is certainly advanced, but it could be a fun challenge to keep you knitting knowledge expanding! I think you can do it, plus If you get stuck we can always help!
Happy knitting,
Marilla

Hello – how would this lovely pattern knit up in garter stitch? I’m knitting this for the second time but my joints have become sore & I want to avoid a lot of purling if possible, this time around. Keep up the great work at Purl Soho!

Many thanks for this swift and v helpful response Julianna. I’ve already completed the rib edge so will grin and bear the stocking stitch as it’s such a fabulously tailored pattern to knit. Great to have those alternatives pattern suggestions. Best wishes.

Thank you so much for the kind words! Unfortunately Maxima is a bit too heavy for this pattern. Our pattern is written for Cashmere Merino Bloom, a DK weight yarn, but Maxima is a fairly heavy worsted to aran weight yarn. Some other alternative yarns for our M.Patmos Crossover Crewneck would be Understory, Flax Down, or Good Wool!

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