Quick Tip: Using a Twin or Double Needle

Editor: Liz Johnson

Thursday, 10 September 2015 1:00

We've been asked numerous times by Sew4Home visitors, "How do you get your double rows of stitching so perfectly even?" We've quietly given out our secret to several of you. But now we've decided it's time to reveal it to the world. The way to get perfectly even, super close, double rows of stitching is... to use a twin needle. If you're one of those people who think twin needles are way too complicated, you're in for a very pleasant surprise: twice the stitching is half as hard as you might imagine.

What Is A Twin Needle?

A twin needle (also called a double needle) is basically two needles attached to a single shank. One is slightly shorter than the other so your bobbin can catch the thread from both needles. So clever that bobbin!

Twin needles come in a variety of sizes just like regular needles. But they have two number designations: one is the space between the needles and the other is the needle size. For instance, a 4/80 twin needle has 4 mm between two size 80 needles. The picture below shows a Janome needle pack on the left; many Janome models come standard with a twin needle. On the right is a Klassé twin needle. Several manufactuturers offer twin needles; check to be sure it's a proper fit for your machine.

There may be some limitations as to how wide a twin needle your sewing machine can take. That answer should be provided in your manchine's manual. Or even better, buy your twin needle directly from your sewing machine dealer. He/She can tell you which size will be best for your project.

A twin needle installs in your machine just like a regular needle. With the flat part of the shank toward the back, insert it into the needle hole and tighten the screw.

This may be the spot where you're saying, "Wait a minute. A twin needle needs two threads to stitch." Correct - your sewing machine is designed to feed one thread at a time. And even if it could feed two, where are you supposed to put the extra spool?

Most machines come with an extra spool pin and a hole to put it in. That's where you put your second spool. Again, consult your owner's manual to see what your extra spool pin looks like and exactly where it goes.

If your machine doesn't have an extra pin, you can use a thread stand. Or, you can put the additional spool in a coffee mug to the side of your machine. (Just make sure there's no coffee in it.)

If you want the same thread color in both needles, but you only have one spool of that color, wind some thread onto an extra bobbin. You can use this bobbin as your second spool.

Thread your machine as you normally would, one thread at a time . The most important thing is to make sure the threads don't get twisted around one another. Some machines allow you to separate the threads at the tension disk. Again, check your machine's manual for specific instructions.

The only sad part is that you can't use an automatic needle threader with a twin needle. It helps to have a hand needle threader. You can also try what we often do: find someone younger with better vision to thread the needles.

Which Stitches Can I Use?

A simple straight stitch with a twin needle always looks crisp and exact. It's the one we use most in home décor sewing. However, your machine may be able to sew a zigzag or decorative stitches with a twin needle, which can be very pretty, especially with two different colors of thread.

As mentioned above, the slight difference in the length of the needles is what allows the single bobbin thread to secure both threads as they penetrate through to the back of the fabric. The image below shows you the back of straight as well as decorative stitch options.

Some machines, including many of the Janome models in our Sew4Home studio, actually have a twin needle setting. When you select the twin needle setting on the machine, any stitches that cannot be used are grayed-out or otherwise disabled so they cannot be selected.

You may not have this screen setting option. If so, just make sure the needles don't swing too wide. The biggest danger is that one of the needles will hit the presser foot or needle plate and damage your machine (not to mention the eye risk of flying needle shards). Before even beginning your test stitching, use the hand wheel to take your twin needles through one full stitch cycle, making sure they're safely within the tolerances of your machine and the foot. Then, do some test seams on a scrap to make sure you're getting the effect you want.

A standard presser foot that can accomodate a zig zag stitch is the most common option to use for double needle stitching. The goal is to use the presser foot with the widest opening for the needle swing.

@Jayroch - If you're matching a current hem - as in making a repair, you should measure the existing space and match that. If it's a brand new shirt, it really is a matter of personal preference, although the distance should be evenly spaced within the fold of your hem.

Dumb question. What does that mean? "Should be evenly spaces within the fold of the hem?" This is my second sewing project. Ever. So I'm brand new. Does the 1.6mm have a difference in stretch than a 4mm? Or is the hem merely just to look crisp?

Well - it would help if I typed "spaced" instead of "spaces." The size relates to the distance between the two needles. 1.6mm would be much closer together than 4mm. So - nothing to do with stretch. The bottom of a shirt traditionally has a very narrow hem, so you would want the two lines of stitching to fit evenly within the width of your hem.

I want to fix a hem on my swimsuit. The two suggestions are to use a twin needle with woolly nylon in the bobbin, and to use the walking foot. Can I do both, or do I have to forgo the walking foot when using the twin needle?

@ Hovawart - It will depend on your sewing machine make and model. We are able to use a twin needle with our Janome Walking foot as well as the Janome built-in AcuFeed™ Flex fabric feeding system. Check your manual to be sure and test first on a scrap of fabric.

@Donna -- there are a lot of variables in play with this situation: your knit fabric thickness, your machine, your needle, etc. Some things you could try -- testing on a scrap with a simulated seam is the best way to be sure: a brand new ballpoint needle, a Walking or Even Feed foot, a lengthened stitch, and you could even stop with your needle in the down position and hand walk (using the hand wheel) across the thickest part.

@ Reneehobgood@yahoo.com -- That's a hard one to troubleshoot long distance as there could be a number of things going on, but some things to check: make sure the needle is the right size for you machine - that it will actually fit through the needle hole in your machine's plate, make sure the needle is securely inserted, make sure everything is threaded correctly, and, if not using just a straight stitch, make sure you tested the entire formation of the stitch by turning the handwheel to confirm the needles fit through the hole during all parts of the stitch formation. You could also check the machine manual to see if it contains any infromation on settings for a double needle.

I just got a Juki HZL-F 600. I was trying to use the double needle, got it set up & tried it. Now I can't get it back to single needle setting even turning the machine off & on. GRRRR, Any help would be apreciated, Thanks

question 1) is this one bobbin sorrounded by two thread from needle ? if its so, pls send appearance of back stitching 2) is this applicable for industrial use ? 3) what is the rpm of m/c ? 4) what is cost of this m/c? 5) what is the minimum needle gauge available ? figure shows 4mm needle gg which can be obtained from double needle lock stitch m/c.appreciate your revert on the same.thanks.

@ achyutananda nayak - Our site is focused on home sewing, so we don't have any industrial information to pass along. This is a standard double needle for a home sewing machine so, yes, it is one bobbin with two threads through the needle. In the fifth photo above, it shows the back of the stithcing. For more specific information about the Janome sewing machines, you can find specifications on their website: http://www.janome.com/

Hello. Thanks for the above. I have a problem using decorative stitches with my twin needles because I always end up with broken needles. They hit the sides of the plate and break. My machine's manual gives info on how to make the straight stiches and it says that I can make the decorative stiches but doesn't give more information on that. I have tried to do it by hand and what I figured is that when the needle goes down it almost hits the front of the hole of the throatplate. Is that normal?? Shouldn't it be centered in the hole? It's as if when using it at maximum width stitch the needle doesn't have enough room to work because it is not centered but almost touching the front part of the hole...

@ Agni - Not sure what type of machine you're working with, but our Janome machines do have information in the manual regarding which stitches will work with the twin needle. Not every decorative stitch will work. But yes, the needles should be centered in the hole when you begin. Your local dealer may be some additional information regarding exactly what your machine can handle in the way of decorative stitching. You are doing the right thing testing the needle drop by using the handwheel to cycle the needle up and down, if it isn't centered in the hole, it might be time for service.

Great intro to twin-needles! I use mine for all manner of decorative and functional sewing - all sizes from 1.6mm and up through the 'wing and straight' to make insertion lace for heirloom garments, placemats, cushions, etc. But my all time fav use for the twins is pintucking (need a specialty foot for that one) and not just for garments - wow does a sofa cushion (pillow in the US) look great made up of alternating direction pintucked blocks - so quick and easy and packs a lotta decorative punch! I also love the twins for knit garment hems/neckline/cuffs. I'm glad to see you've included the sanity-saver tip of using a hand needle threader to thread the needles.

One of my absolute favorite techniques! Picture a lilac blouse with purple and white twin needle decorative stitching around the collar and down the front. Endless compliments every time I wear it. Also used this technique using a brightly varigated thread (like dk brown, orange and green) on one needle and a neutral (beige) on the second needle. I did this down one side of bias quilt binding and then bound my quilt with that. To die for!

@ someone - We answered your same quetion on Facebook as well. The needles are attached as one to the shank so they operate as one. But, one is slightly shorter than the other so your bobbin can catch the thread from both needles. It looks almost like a zig zag on the back as it grabs both upper threads. Good question - we will add an a photo of the back of the stitching.

Thanks for this wonderful quick tip! When I bought my machine they did show me how to use a double needle, but I'd forgotten all about it. I recently made some lunch bags where you have 2-4 rows of stitching around the top edge - I just realized how much time I have been wasting doing one at a time! Plus they come out perfeclty even with this needle. This is brilliant - thanks so much for this "refresher course". Keep the tips coming!!!