Comments: 5.8/9 R/X? Wtf? That's funny. Fun route, easy day, No groveling needed. P1- I went up the face route not the flake start to the right. Good gear then pro flake (small tcu or nut) to go out left to get the bolt if your want. I traversed a few feet to the left after the bolt then went up. It's a run to get to the crack but way easier then any 5.6 face route in josh IMO. P2- up the great hand/fist crack in corner to another bolted belay. Again 5.5 maybe P3- all this gibberish about knee bars an... more >>

Comments: thats the end of the pitch and the anchor is right over the roof. Rope drag wasn't bad, I lead to the roof and took a pretty big whip and got a little banged and needed a break so being the patient man Brian was He went out and lead the roof while I rested.

Comments: Did the route to avoid traffic on Chucawalla 21, it was an adventure not the best route around by a long shot. Crux is first pitch, after that just a red rock seldom traveled route. Up high turned a bulge (on lichen ramp as discribed in handren guide) with little pro and felt sporty (5.7 the way I did it 15-20 feet out from pro) and prob get messed up if the flakes blew. Top out rap down and life is good.

Comments: Just got off the route today and with only a single 70m. The raps on pitch 7 I think does not reach. I was about 2 feet short had to flip upside down to clip the daisy and down climb. I was using a new 9.2 70m so plenty of stretch still not a good idea unless you are comfortable, but a 70m was nice linked many pitches making the route go faster. Kurt "Burt" Arend

Comments: Just did the route, whoever carved in to the start "route X> 5.9+ way harder" you are a douche. IF you can't climb the grades here in RR, or wherever for that matter, stay home. I spent an hour trying to erase what you did, and you are lower then the dog sh*t i found on the approach. So if you read this, have the balls to fess up and admit your mistakes and go clean up your mess. And if you want to call me out, just message me, I will meet you wherever you want.

Comments: Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most cove... more >>

Comments: Rock is really good, there is a seam there that can be seen from the ground, but it is just a line, can't get a beak in it. The pitch after the drill pitch was really wild off the belay and then some wild free moves to the end. Very classic route.

Comments: This is one of the better routes on the wall imho. Sucks that someone would add a bolt to it. IF you don't like the runout do other routes on the wall. very simple. So it is far from 5.9 X the move is 5.7, feet on the flat wall and move to climbers right a few moves, spooky yes, but not that bad. there are way harder pitches on the route then the second, it is just runout. So do some homework, figure out that it is runout, if this is your limit of leading don't climb it. Why do you feel so entit... more >>

Comments: Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.

Comments: fantastic route, seems so improbable, I looked at the first pitch and thought wow, gonna get sand bagged on this one, but it was all there. We took a double rack to 3 camolot which was way over kill, the big piece for the money pitch I didn't see the point. I got a #3 when you start to commit a big piece might give you and extra 5 feet of comfort? Just go for it and don't drag that big lug up there! 4 bolt face seemed a little easy for 5.8 but it is runout just search for the holds they a... more >>

Comments: I think the R rating is unwarranted, same with the 5.7+, this was my first route in the Needles I am far from a strong climber. First pitch great gear 5.6 to the tree, second 5.7 don't go right off the belay just climb straight up above the tree (5.5) to the bolt then easy climbing left, some weird gear (I doubled up makes it bomber) make a couple 5.7 slab moves to a small ledge, third climb left (5.6) to one or two moves of 5.7 traverse back right then to the top. We didn't summit to the watch ... more >>

Comments: Just spent a week out in the Taos area and had a blast. What a great variety of rock and style of climbs. Jay took me on a great tour of the area and enjoyed everything from Comales, to TP, the trad at El Rito (Jay was sick, good jerky huh Jay?) and the great Wild and Scenic. Climbing here was very surreal and I want to give an applause to all the guys doing great work developing the crags, and making it a great area to climb in. Jays book is pretty close to right on, I have never been to the ar... more >>

Comments: Just went and soloed the old woman. What an adventure! I left Vegas 05/08/09 at around noon drove out there and started hiking around 4.30pm. The hike up the gully sucks and when I topped out on the ridge it was so far away still! I continued on and arrived at the base at 7.00. The first pitch went as good as a 5.7 corner goes, I hurried and rapped grab one ladder and rushed back up to the ledge so I could top out before dark. I lead the bolt ladder in under 5 minutes and was standing on top. I ... more >>

Comments: I put up a new route on the right. Th waterfall right on the right is the last pitch of my route. It is in this crazy chimney and the whole time I was climbing it I was praying that a storm like that wouldn't roll in! Classic shot!