Now I don't know the maximum throw that a leveling valve has, but there is a 1:1 relationship between the leveling valve arm and the axle when the arm is level, so that suggests that you need to be able to change the arm position by the same amount you want to be able to level the bus. That gets to the amount of lift difference the air bags you have can handle. I would figure maybe 3" down and 2" up as a guess. If you are thinking of using electric actuators I would look at ones with 6" of movement.

We use cables to move the ride height valves up or down for campground leveling. I think we may have allowed three inches each way off center for the design but may have adjusted it later. In order to be sure of what you are doing though, it would make senses for you to measure the throw on your valves.

Just be aware that, while airbag leveling is a convenience, you will only get a maximum of 5-6 inches adjustment from front wheels to rear wheels or from side to side. For side to side leveling that is quite significant, but for back to front it is not substantial. Some campgrounds, particularly National Forest, can be easily a foot or more off level between axles. We find that we still need a supply of blocks sometimes. However, even then, being able to fine tune the level with the airbags makes things much easier.

I have left the regular leveling valves alone. I did install a system of three solenoids per leveling valve for manual leveling at the campsite. I use one normally open and two normally closed solenoids. Then when I want to level, I turn on the normally open which closes it and bypasses the automative leveling valve. The other two solenoids are used to add or exhaust air from the air bags. Since I have one leveling valve in front, and two in the back, I use three sets of the solenoids. Has worked well for years. Good Luck, TomC

I put a leveling system in my MC9. Honestly, for the cost and effort, I don't think I'd do it again. There's not enough movement capability to really make it worthwhile,and with leaks in the air system, level is a fleeting concept. I think if I were to do it again, I'd install a dump valve on the air bags. Then I'd use blocksto level the bus and dump the air bags to the suspension bumpers.

Or, I'd install Big Foot hydraulic levelers.

Considering that we really only need precise leveling to get the shower to drain, I think it would have been better just to install 4 drains in the shower with slopesin all the corners. Then, no matter which way the bus is tilted, it still drains.

We have 1 line 1/4" coming from accessory tank for air supply to air valves that go through 2 gauges with 2 needles each with paddle switches ( Up and Down) then out with 4, 1/4" lines to each air beam. We can adjust each corner of the coach about 0- 90 lbs which gives us a 5-1/4" spread or 10-1/2" total.

Lin no the bags will raise about 5 inches or so and if you say have the front corner up all the way and the back drop all the way the difference is about 9 to 10 inches difference because of the front and rear overhanges and where the bags are located.

The air ride on my toter home would stay up for a MAX of 24 hrs before I set it up like TomC did on his coach. I use a 3way manual valve instead of a solenoid but the effect is the same. The original purpose of the project was to dump the air bags for easier hitching to the lowboy but it also helps a lot with leveling. I think that almost off of the leaking in these things is in the leveling valve itself. By bypassing the ride height valve you eliminate the leak. When I am parked and the and the ride height bypassed the suspension says air up indefinitely.