Confit of salmon, apple and lemon verbena

I created this delicate dish with subtle hints of flavours over a decade ago and it’s still a classic at Le Manoir. To achieve it I cured salmon fillets lightly, then applied a very low heat – just enough to lose the rawness, but ensuring the salmon would keep its wonderful colour. The texture was melting and the flavour delicate. Here I use the advantages of the sous-vide technique. As the food is cooked in a pouch under vacuum at a low temperature, the flavours, colours and textures are superior; you also minimise the loss of nutrients. However, as most domestic kitchens do not have a sous-vide machine, I have also given you the method I used before I acquired one; it works perfectly.

Cooking Method

Planning ahead

You can cure the salmon, marinate the apples and make the apple purée a day in advance.

To cure the salmon

Place the salmon fillet in a shallow dish. Mix together the ingredients for curing and distribute evenly over the fish. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour (*1). Wash off the marinade and pat the salmon dry. Cut into 4 portions, place on a plate, cover and refrigerate.

To make the apple purée

Peel, core and dice the apples. Put into a medium saucepan with the water and lemon juice, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high heat for 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cool down quickly over ice. Purée in a blender until smooth, then transfer to a bowl and set aside.

To make the apple and lemon verbena jelly

In a medium saucepan, bring the apple juice to just under a simmer (about 80°C). Take off the heat, add the lemon verbena and set aside to infuse for 8 minutes. Now whisk in the agar agar (*2) and bring gently to the boil, whisking all the time until the liquid is clear. Pass through a fine muslin-lined sieve into ice-cube trays or other small containers and allow to set at room temperature.

To marinate the apples in verbena oil

In a small saucepan over a medium heat, bring the chopped verbena and olive oil to about 60°C; remove from the heat and set aside to infuse. Once cooled, blitz in a blender for 3–5 seconds, then pass through a fine sieve into a bowl and reserve. Halve the apples, cut into 5mm slices and lay in a shallow tray. Pour the lemon verbena oil over the apple slices and leave to marinate for 2–3 hours. Alternatively, place the apple slices in a medium sous-vide pouch, add the verbena oil and vacuum pack (*3). Marinate as above.

To cook the salmon

Line a small, shallow sauté pan with a piece of greaseproof paper, pour in the olive oil and heat to 42°C. Add the salmon portions (*4) with the lemon verbena and ‘confit’ for 25 minutes, maintaining the temperature. Lift out the salmon, drain and place on kitchen paper to remove excess oil. Alternatively, if using a sous-vide, preheat the water bath to 42°C (*5). Slide your salmon portions into a medium sous-vide pouch, adding the olive oil and sprig of verbena. Vacuum pack and cook in the water bath for 25 minutes. Remove the salmon fillets from the bag and drain as above.

To serve

Place a portion of warm salmon (*6) in the middle of each plate. Surround with tiny spoonfuls of the apple purée, nuggets of jelly, marinated apple slices, drops of verbena oil and micro leaves. Spoon the crème fraîche on top of the salmon and finish with the caviar, if using.

Raymond's Notes

*1 Here we are giving the salmon a light cure to firm up and season the flesh. It will not preserve the fish, as there is not enough salt – or time – to do so.

*2 Agar agar is a setting agent derived from red algae, in powder form. Unlike gelatine it is suitable for vegetarians. When you add agar agar to a hot liquid, it will turn cloudy. You need to whisk over a gentle heat until the liquid is clear, which indicates the agar agar has fully dissolved; this will take about 1 minute.

*3 Using a sous-vide and vacuum pack enables you to halve the oil and dispense with heat. It aids the breakdown of the cells within the apple, pushing the flavour of the verbena oil into the apple and slightly bruising the flesh, which gives another texture.

*4 Ensure you place the fish on top of the greaseproof paper as this will protect the flesh from the direct heat at the bottom of the pan. It is difficult to maintain the temperature when cooking the salmon this way, but as long as the temperature does not exceed 42°C the result will be fine.

*5 Using a sous-vide machine and vacuum pack makes low temperature cooking much easier to control and results in superior flavours, textures and colours. At 42°C the fish protein is denatured and the collagen and fats dividing the flakes will melt; this allows the flakes to separate easily and lends flavour.

*6 The fish must be barely warm – not hot, as this would spoil the dish.

VARIATION

As a simple alternative, serve the cured salmon with a cucumber salad lightly dressed with a dill and mustard or horseradish dressing.