It might not be the latest hot spot on Sellwood's "restaurant row" but, after almost three years, it still holds its own. Opened in fall 2006, the corner Vietnamese eatery has earned local fans who come regularly for the well-priced, authentic noodle and rice dishes.

The chow: Start with fresh, plump salad rolls ($3.50-$3.75) with a "plum peanut dipping sauce" (I never detect the plum). Salads ($7.50) are a generous helping of crisp vegetables and herbs with sesame ginger vinaigrette, topped with grilled meats or tofu. Deep bowls of vermicelli noodles ($7.25-$8.25) come with piles of fresh raw herbs, carrots, daikon, cucumber and nuoc cham sauce to toss in, and a choice of grilled pork, lemongrass chicken, Vietnamese sausage, tofu, garlic shrimp or egg rolls. With rice, sesame short ribs ($7.75) are the ticket: small tender slabs marbled with fat and marinated in a sweet soy that's downright addictive. The owners have expanded the menu to include soups such as vegetarian pho ($7.50) or spicy beef ($7.95), and be on the lookout for seasonal salads.

Real deal: Portions are substantial, so share a few dishes and keep your family's tab under $20.

Hangout factor: The room is simple and spare, with great air conditioning. Order at the counter and find a table by the window or outside on the sidewalk.

Liquids: Iced Vietnamese coffee will get you through the warm summer afternoons. A liquor license is in the works, hopefully coming by fall.

What's half-baked? While the standard items are consistently good, a few unique Vietnamese dishes might add excitement and lure more nonlocals.

Inside tip: Add an egg roll to any order for $1.25. Fax in your lunch order to avoid waiting in line: 503-808-9093.