i also build up cassettes - most of mine wear mostly on 3-4 cogs only so i just replace those. i buy high ratio MTB cassettes and low ratio road ones, which means that after 'cherry picking' the replacement cogs, i can combine the unused cogs on the donor cassettes and make a single, new cassette. i do this on my training/commuter bikes which run Tiagra level stuff, but no reason why it can't work on higher level equipment - although i have a SRAM Red cassette which looks like a solid block to me.

Not sure what the reasoning is for having multiple chains, Ive been around cycle racing for decades and no-one I know does this. Maybe someone can explain?Personally my young bloke hasDisc wheel with 11-21Zipp 404 with 11-23Enve with 12-26 and a 12-29 climbing cassetteFulcrum 3s with 12-25I just swap wheels or cassettes as required for training /racing. Replace the one and only chain every 6 months.

I have a collection of Shimano wheels of various types, all 10 spd, mix of DA/Ultegra clusters. Wear on the clusters varies from practically none to a few thousand km - visually noticeable but nothing extreme.If I had to swap chains when I swapped wheels that would be a PITA and I don't think I could be bothered. As per DD's comment, I just use one chain per bike.Previously used 7800/7900 chain, but recently went to 9000 chain. So smooth & quiet! The only time I take a chain off is when it's going in the bin - I use joining pin not quicklinks.

Derny Driver wrote:Not sure what the reasoning is for having multiple chains, Ive been around cycle racing for decades and no-one I know does this. Maybe someone can explain?Personally my young bloke hasDisc wheel with 11-21Zipp 404 with 11-23Enve with 12-26 and a 12-29 climbing cassetteFulcrum 3s with 12-25I just swap wheels or cassettes as required for training /racing. Replace the one and only chain every 6 months.

In the OP's case I'd think it was unneccesary as the cassettes are the same size.

In the case of your young bloke, I would have though that the difference in cassette size might cause an issue? Do you size the chain to the 29 tooth climbing cassette? I think that the general rational is that if you run a small cassette only, you can reduce the amount of "give" in the chain, whereas if you run a larger cassette you need to allow more room.

For the OP: go with your normal chain maintaining routine. There is 100 different opinions and methods that you'll get told are the best ways to do it.

Personally, whatever chain routine you choose, I'd try and "even out" the mileage on each cassette to keep them roughly on par in terms of wear. Eg swap them over from race to training wheel every 6 months or something.

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