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On a car body or a hull, every time there is a ridge between two planes (like the top of a fender) the paint or gelcoat will be a little thinner. On a car you can burn through in a matter of seconds. Not quite as easy to cause damage on a boat hull but you should still be careful.

On a car body or a hull, every time there is a ridge between two planes (like the top of a fender) the paint or gelcoat will be a little thinner. On a car you can burn through in a matter of seconds. Not quite as easy to cause damage on a boat hull but you should still be careful.

Buffer newb

I used meguiars forever. I learned from a friend of Barry's who had an endless supply that he shared with me. However side by side the 3m works easier and faster with less residue. Only been using it for two years but really like it for the boat.

Mequiars also makes a "Color Restorer" that fits in the lineup after the oxidation remover and the high gloss polish, that is supposed to help with the dried out faded gelcoat. It seems that the gelcoat needs to be kept "hydrated" for lack of a better word. I just did my boat with Mequiars Quick Wax, and the faded parts of my red hull are almost gone. Now I am sure they will return, but I was surprised how well that spray wax worked, and it was easy to work with too!

I apply the wax by hand, and use the random orbital to remove 90% when it dries, continuously moving and switching to clean bonnets, then go back over by hand to remove the cracks and crevices. Saves a lot of time and energy doing it this way vs 100% by hand. Not doing the restore or faded gel coat recovery that others are talking about here though.