Pitmaster Adrian Handsborough in front of the store his father built in the 1960s.

Pitmaster Adrian Handsborough in front of the store his father built in the 1960s.

Photo: Alison Cook, Houston Chronicle

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Virgie's Bar-B-Q pig mascot, 5535 North Gessner in Houston.

Virgie's Bar-B-Q pig mascot, 5535 North Gessner in Houston.

Photo: Alison Cook, Houston Chronicle

81. Virgie's Bar-B-Que

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Pitmaster Adrian Handsborough turns out a landmark brisket sandwich at his familial little spot northwest of the city. It's the kind of stirring, monumental dish you insist that visitors need to taste. So are Handsborough's brawny pecan-and-oak-smoked ribs and red-peppery pork links. The sides skew sweet, East-Texas style. The prim dining room was converted from a neighborhood grocery and burger spot once run by Virgie Handborough, Adrian's mom.