The writer Davin de Kergommeaux at The Highlander Pub in Ottawa. His 2012 book, “Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert,” was the first serious guide to the product in decades, and interest was scant. “I was very much a voice in the wilderness,” he said.

Canadian Whisky’s Long-Awaited Comeback

Interest in all kinds of whiskeys has spurred a new wave of distilleries, and a renewed respect for a distinctive spirit.