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What would be the ultimate frankensoob for off road

What would the best combination of parts and mods easily available to make the optimal combination of soob parts or common bolt ons?
Lightest vehichle or frame,
Franken motor,
Easiest body to cut, instead of lift kit parts?
Also thought about rear lift blocks that offset the tube 1 " to the rear to allow for less trimming, same result as extending the radius rods in the front?
Best clutch?
Bolt pattern or redrill or 5 lug conersion?

Trying to keep very expensive and rare parts out of he build,
What do you think?

I think an ea82 coupe would be the lightest and also have no issues with cutting into the doors in the rear,
If the body can be trimmed to fit bigger tires easily, then no need or expense for a lift.
Better exit angle than a wagon, and maybe sedan?

And how far could the front wheel center be moved forward, for better entry angle and not trimming/bashing into the firewall as far.

Very much like what I would like to build, i like the Idea of the buggy chop, there are some pics of a loyale wagon converted into a truck box in the rear out there.
I'm thinking somthing in the middle.
I like the angle brace taking the load from the cut away C pillar, to the B pillar, I thought of that too? I want to cut out the roof too and need support to keep it from folding up like a suitcase if all the doors are opened at once! Lol
I'd keep the bit of roof between the B pillars side to side and the top of the door openings from the A to the B pillars, and then have the braces come down from the top of the b pillar to where the c pillar was, weld the rear doors shut and shave the handles. Shorten the rear and just move the bumper and tail lights back, no tailgate, and hack some sort of poly bed liner to fit, add other roll support where needed. I think this would suit my purposes and budget better than a subframe to get the support I'm looking for.

Going back to my original post,
Re: offset rear crossmember lift blocks,
To move the wheel center to the rear, and move the tire away from the rear door, to not have to cut as much, or not at all?
How much can the axles take? This is without extending the driveline, just an inch or two back, if the blocks are going in anyway then why not? Also the mount for the diff to the cross member modifyed to match

Going back to my original post, Re: offset rear crossmember lift blocks,To move the wheel center to the rear, and move the tire away from the rear door, to not have to cut as much, or not at all? How much can the axles take? This is without extending the driveline, just an inch or two back, if the blocks are going in anyway then why not? Also the mount for the diff to the cross member modifyed to match

You could safely move the rear wheels back an inch or even two, cause when they're lowered they come so damn far forward, the axles are pointed a bit forward as well. Been debating about how I could extend the trailing arm a bit to center the axle better and give the tire more clearance from the rear doors.

The loyale frame is desireable for the weight and the dual range, and legacy for the power.

Loyales are harder to find in BC, and importing anything from out of country or ever out of province is a PITA.

Legacy is readily available.

What if the legacy was stripped chopped enough to bring the weight down? Then resemble the ea body buggy.

And swapping a dual range into a legacy seems easier than swapping an EJ into a loyale, and lug conversion, misc. retrofitting and wiring.

lets do it, if you make one I could make a one piece fiberglass nose that would be hood fenders and grill all hooked with clearence for tires, I would use a wagon and cut the whole back off up to the gas tank and we could make a one piece rear section out of fiberglass, I live just over the line we could do it in a weekend

True, starting with an EJ platform has many benefits. However, there are two reasons I prefer the EA: the narrow width of the wheel track, and the extremely tight turning radius. I wonder if one could make an EJ with the turning radius of the EA. Is it all in the steering rack?

I like the small platform the loyale provides, I can get down quad trails, and daily drive.
I' d like to see more people out wheelin' and I thought I'd bring it up here, and try to find the most economical, economy of effort and capability in one package.
I have 2 paths on this, one completly stripped buggy, and one saftey/road/emissions legal and daily driver capable, possibly pickup conversion?
My main goal? Cheap, easy, legal and daily.
I was introduced to the subaru Loyale through research, I was looking for a vehicle with comparable capabilities to the vehicle I drove on 3 overseas tours with the army.
Volkwagen Iltis
The Iltis was 15 years + in service when I joined, drove the hell out of those, they were retired 5 years ago,and now they go for at least $10,000 surplus beat to hell, I would never buy one for that price, I was the guy who beat em up.
Enter subaru...

Legacy is available and affordable, but the forester or outback parts are going on anyway,
This is where "economy of effort" comes in.
Start with the vehicle with most of the desired parts, think or what your time and effort is worth swapping and altering to fit, also paying for each part or group of parts.
Donor car is the way to go, get the whole car for $500
Parts individually would come to way more.
The base legacy is fine to start, but in the end I think it's better to pay a bit more and get the car that has the suspension your going to get anyway, already on, and working.
I'm a renovation contractor by trade, old stuff always has expensive surprises.

Legacy is available and affordable, but the forester or outback parts are going on anyway,This is where "economy of effort" comes in.Start with the vehicle with most of the desired parts, think or what your time and effort is worth swapping and altering to fit, also paying for each part or group of parts.Donor car is the way to go, get the whole car for $500 Parts individually would come to way more.The base legacy is fine to start, but in the end I think it's better to pay a bit more and get the car that has the suspension your going to get anyway, already on, and working.I'm a renovation contractor by trade, old stuff always has expensive surprises.

so you got time to burn on a offroader? Im in bellingham can help out at my shop I like choppin parts off cars with a sawZall and M serios about making a fiberglass kit to convert the old subarus into a road legal buggy , my choice would be the EA82 wagon or the gen1 legacy wagon just because they are so plentiful and cheep the EJ would need outback or forester struts

Attached Files

Whatever model you choose check around to see if it came with a LSD. I've read that the EA turbo ones were more likely than others to have it. either way don't forget to find one, I would expect it to be desirable for a wheeler.