Getting ready to upgrade brakes, got new rotors( dba5000's /front. 4000's rear), pads(Hawk PC) and stainless lines etc. I still need to get some brake fluid to do the job, any recomendations or preferences on high temp fluids? Also since I will have to order it, how much will I need? thanks for replies.

Castrol SRF has been, is the gold standard for brake fluid and is priced like gold. There are a number of good fluids on the market. The most important specification is the wet boiling point. Pick the highest wet boiling point at the best price. Two bottles should be more than enough.

Getting ready to upgrade brakes, got new rotors( dba5000's /front. 4000's rear), pads(Hawk PC) and stainless lines etc. I still need to get some brake fluid to do the job, any recomendations or preferences on high temp fluids? Also since I will have to order it, how much will I need? thanks for replies.

Good: AP Racing Formula 5.1 -- ideal viscosity for ABS use.

Better: AP600 -- still the standard of many race teams all over the world.

Best: AP PRF -- Among the highest boiling point available, very low compressibility and best recovery on the market. Expensive, but worth it if racing or tracking aggressively and fluid boiling. Used extensively in NASCAR and Formula 1!

Castrol SRF has been, is the gold standard for brake fluid and is priced like gold. There are a number of good fluids on the market. The most important specification is the wet boiling point. Pick the highest wet boiling point at the best price. Two bottles should be more than enough.

The most important specification is the wet boiling point. Pick the highest wet boiling point at the best price.

Wet boiling point is important for those who intend to keep the fluid in the car for more than two years. If changing brake fluid at regular two year intervals, the dry boiling point is much more important. For track use, we don't worry about wet boiling points at all as we change the fluid often. The wet boiling point is measured (per SAE standard testing) at approximately 3.7% moisture content, which describes a fluid that should have been replaced already.

I run superblue DOT 4 in mine. I got one can and it worked just fine. If you go DOT 5.1 you should expect to change it out a lot more often (which can become a pain in the butt) than DOT 4 or even standard DOT 3.

I run superblue DOT 4 in mine. I got one can and it worked just fine. If you go DOT 5.1 you should expect to change it out a lot more often (which can become a pain in the butt) than DOT 4 or even standard DOT 3.

Click on the link and it'll give you everything you need to know.

The change interval for DOT 5.1 is no different than DOT 3 or 4, although 5.1 does have a higher borate ester content. But that alone does not have an appreciable affect on its hygroscopic properties. Also, 5.1 is typically slightly denser (contains less dissolved air if packaged properly), meaning it is less compressible right out of the bottle.

A lot of people recommend the blue fluids, but I will not use it as they stain the master cylinder reservoir.

This link will have more details on brake fluid (simplified for those who aren't chemical engineers) than any I've found: http://www.rs683.com/abc.html