Fondue: Tricks of the Trade

My last indulgence of fondue, at a New York restaurant that will remain nameless, proved unremarkable. The flavors were flat, and if there was any cheese-related epiphany to be had, my taste buds were certainly not at the receiving end.

But just last weekend, redemption was found in a humble gathering of good friends and the best pot of melted cheese I've had yet, thanks to my cheese-loving host, pictured here, happily stirring away.

Herein lie some secrets to a sure-fire fondue, including a formula to follow each and every time, guaranteed to convert even the disenchanted.

Keep in mind that the most important element of a memorable batch of fondue is the cheese itself. Use great cheese from a reputable cheesemonger.

Rub the inside of a medium saucepan with one half of the garlic clove. Use the other half for the inside of the fondue pot. Heat the cheese and wine in the saucepan over low heat, stirring frequently. It's important to heat the cheese and wine slowly so it does not burn. When it starts to bubble and thicken slightly, mix the kirschwasser and the corn starch, and then add that mixture to the pot. Stir to combine and let cook, stirring, until thickened. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a fondue pot set over a low flame.

Fondue tips:

Mix and match-- The greater the number of cheeses you combine, the more interesting the flavor of your fondue will be. Generally speaking, most fondue-friendly (that is, meltable) cheeses have complementary flavors. Generally speaking, these cheeses will be mountain cheeses, which are aged, hard cheeses, the most famous of which come from the Alpine regions of France or Switzerland. Don't be afraid to throw in some old cheeses that may have been sitting around for awhile. It's a great way to get rid of scraps that have likely matured and become sharper.

Nora Singley used to be a cheesemonger and the Director of Education at Murray's Cheese Shop. Until recently she was a TV Chef on The Martha Stewart Show. She is currently a freelance food stylist and recipe developer in New York.