Ascent Notes for: Southern Pillar -
5.2
Average Rating : 4.40/5

Ummm this was NOT worth it

What a bushwhack thrash fest. I did like the jutting rock squeeze on P2. I went behind the rock, cleared all the spiders and squeezed my way up. This climb is NOT worth doing. It's dirty and needs a lot of gardening. Never again.

What a ride.

Found this to be amazing. Got off route a bit and learned a lot about rope drag and we each took a turn leading each pitch. Tadan, my 11 yr old son, Mike our newbie climber. We spent a lot time at Trapps camp teaching him anchors and knots and had a terrific day. We had a double rope rappel to go down on but we hiked down for the experience... We all wished we had rapped but now we know the way off from the top.

First Climb @ the 'Gunks!

A very enjoyable, yet easy climb for a new second. The route finishes near a bolted rap-station with an exhilarating free rappel - especially for a new climber. This was my first climb at the Shawangunks and one of my first few multi-pitch routes/outdoor climbs ever. I seconded AMC Berkshire Chapter leader Ed K. on this route.

n/a

Partnered with Ben Harland and Kathy(tigerlilly). I took P1, and felt it was easy for the grade, barely 3rd class in some sections. But the little crux move is exciting for the grade. Ben intended to take the long second pitch. Alas, events conspired against him and foiled his progress just past the Laurel bush. We followed up and I took the lead for the rest of the route.

Exciting and fun, only at the Gunks can you worry about being pumped on a 5.2 - hahaha. Not as clean as I'd have expected of a classic, and had it not been for the historic ironware, I'd have thought I might have been blazing away off-route. Very fun climbing, though, with a sense of exposure the Gunks is known for.

I topped out at a birch tree and then stepped right under a large overhand and belayed form the alcove underneath. Someone else mentioned manky rings on a webbing...I suppose I saw that, on another birch tree about 10 feet to the left of the top out. I popped over to check it, and didn't even get close enough to see rings. I thought someone had bailed there. Couldn't see why they wouldn't build a gear anchor and go for the comfy belay, which connects to an obvious trail on the GT Ledge, which takes you to the rappel station at Madame G's.

Ascent Note

Keith lead and I seconded this route. We love it! I recommend it to anyone looking for a fun, diverse climb at a low grade. Big flakes and lots of bomber hand and foot placements. The crux was psychological - there are very exposed aspects with a little overhang, but it is bomber all the way as far as hand and foot placements go. We did it in three pitches, which I don't recommend. The belay station at the top is sketchy - consisting of some very rusty quick links around slings on a small tree and backed up to a boulder and a chock stone in a crack. If you rap from there with one rope you will not reach the bottom, and there is no rap station midway. We traversed on a big ledge over to a pine tree and rapped off it. Not the best solution, but okay. The classic version of this climb does not top out, but the variation does, making it a 5.7.