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For anyone is looking to refinish a firearm this is an excellent way to do it.

The Dupli-Color ceramic added high heat engine paint is excellent to refinish shotgun barrels or receivers or any other firearm that you are looking to put a parkerized looking matte black finish on. It will withstand heat up to 1200 degrees. It is Tough cured finish that resists oil, gas grease, rust, salt, humidity, and solvents. I have used it on many firearms with very good factory looking results. It is tougher that Duracoat or Gun-Kote finish that cost about four times more. It cost about $6 from your auto parts store. (Part # DH 1602 High Heat Black) gives a nice matte black looking finish. You have to prep the surface well like you do with Gun-Kote bake on finish. I heat the part to 100 degrees before I start. I usually put two light coats with 10 min wait between coats. The directions says to hold 10" -12" from surface but at the end of the 2nd coat I hold it out a little further to give it a dusting for that light rough parkerized looking finish. Then you let it dry for about 20 mins and bake it in the oven on 400 for 1.5 hours.

Get the Dupli-Color High Heat 1200 degree engine paint only, it is tough as nails.

Here is a picture of a mag tube ext I refinished with the Dupli-Color 1200 degree High Heat Black. This Magazine Tube Extension is on a H&R Excel Auto 5. By the way the Excel Auto 5 is an excellent low cost shotgun, very reliable.

This will give you a good idea of what your finish will look like after it has cured.

Don't use a primer. You want it to bond to the metal. Bare metal is best but you can spray it over a matte blue finish or parkerized finish. The part you are refinishing can't have a polished slick surface. If it does rough it up a little with sand paper.

I made a "T" bar form 5/16 rod (available at any home improvement or hardware store) with the "T" being about 8 inches long and the leg extending completely the full width of the inside of the oven. The purpose of using a "T" is top prevent the rod from slipping out angularly and dropping the part.

I just take the racks out and use this to suspend parts inside the oven. Shotgun barrels, receivers, frames, etc, are just put over the rod, other parts suspended by wire from it. If you're going to use it for barrels make it from appropriately sized brass rod or suspend the barrel from it using bare copper wire through the bore (don't want to shove a rough steel rod or wire through the barrel). You can hook everything up to the gimmick before painting and then transfer it to the oven easily enough, eliminating the potential of messing up the finish in the process.

Use weld, braze, silver solder or any solder that is of a higher melting temp that you will be running the oven at to assemble the two pieces of rod to form the "T". This is one of the simplest and handiest gadgets I've made lately, and takes no almost thought or skill to make.

Of course, most finishes will warn against using the kitchen cooking oven for curing, so I never do this. Just made the suspension rod for the fun of it.

Good advice by Allman You don't want it to touch anything because it will mess your finish up. The smell is not bad so you should be Okay with the Mrs. I have done many other guns also: AK47, Desert Eagle slide, Tech 9, couple of shotguns...ect. You can try the steel wool but I would use a rough sandpaper 100 or 150 grit and very lightly go over the surface, go against the grain or in circles. You don't want to remove any metal. If the receiver is aluminum don't sand the surface because you need the top harder layer. I would leave the pins blue but you can coat the outside of them if you think it will look better. Practice on some metal before you start. You have plenty of paint. Turn the can upside down and spray air to clear the nuzzle and store it inside when you are finished and you will able to use it again later on. I wouldn't bake it any longer than 2 hours on 400. The temp needs to be around 70 degrees or above in the area you paint in. Good Luck and post pictures when you are through.

This would be an excellent finish for anyone wanting to refinish a Glock Slide. Just remove the plastic sights. It will look like a new gun.

FWIW, I tried this stuff out last night, Not on a firearm but as a test on a barrel vise I had just made and was contemplating descaling and bluing. Seemed like it would be a lot less trouble to just paint it with this and it should both be exposed to heavy duty use test and an example of what to expect in appearance.

I've got to admit I'm impressed with both the ease and the result. It looks great with a very low luster flat appearance and seems (at least so far) to be quite tough and at least comparable to any gun finish I've used. It went on over the scale (unfinished) part of the vise quite well although the surface imperfections can obviously be seen and looks as good as many commercial steel products I've seen coming from a real factory. The finish on the milled and bored surfaces looks really beautiful and did not take anything but degreasing to get a truly fine application (no rough surfacing).

I can't believe how easy this is to put on, it's several notches easier than Duracoat to apply and Duracoat is really easy. I set my oven to temp and it came out about 430 and I didn't feel like adjusting it so I baked it at that for an hour and a half (only being a barrel vise and the paint rated at 1200 degrees I didn't care to be that accurate). This stuff gives a beautiful, even, smooth and run free surface with absolutely no special care. The baking odor isn't all that bad and doesn't seem to smell up the oven after baking, but the spraying is something that should really be done outdoors, in a garage or shop, or in a very well ventilated area (don't use your kitchen even if it's the only warm area handy, trust me on this).

Some of the other colors look interesting (blue and aluminum), I might try them on something. I'm thinking of doing a little .25 Tanfoglio I have that is finish worn (don't really use it anymore, no mice left) with the slide in this and the frame in Duracoat or Durabake to see how the two compare, side by side, wear wise.

Thanks for the information on this, I would never have thought of it without your post.

I though I would share this paint with everyone because of the high prices being charged for firearms paints. I learned about it by reading an old article by a gunsmith who refinished a receiver on a Ruger 10/22 with bake on auto engine paint. It was before they had the firearms finish paints they do now. He tried engine paint and got excellent results. I looked for some and tried the Dupli-Color. I have known about it for about 10 years or so. Recently I have heard of others using bake on engine paint also.

The surface should only be roughed up when it is a polished surface. Matte or Parkerized surfaces that have been bead blasted don't need it. You can paint over them. Parkerzied type finishes that rub off easy, which some do that were cheaply or not applied correctly. I would get as much of the "loose" finish off as possible before applying. A good example would be the finish you find on the WASR 10 AK47, it comes off easy in places around the gun. Just rub it with coarse steel wool or lightly with sandpaper to get the loose finish off.

Curious if anyone has tried this on a Glock slide yet and what special prep it would need? I know remove sights and internals like the firing pin. Just wondering if i should tape any areas off like the rails and sight notches?

It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.

It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.

GC

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I had actually considered just filling in the lettering with crayon then after sparaying remove. Not sure it would work.. but I can try, this poor thing has more bare spots from holster wear then finish.

I would say this finish is as tough as the finish that comes on the Glocks now. Try it out on some scarp metal, you will have plenty of paint. With this finish your Glock will look like new. Post some picture after you are through.

The regular DupliColor Engine Enamel completely dissolves when sprayed with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and Gun Scrubber. You don't even have to scrub it, just spray it on and the finish literally melts off. I learned that the hard way myself.

The regular DupliColor engine enamel is different from the bake on high temp stuff. I've never tried the bake on stuff, and I don't know if it melts with brake cleaner or not.

The enamel is different than the 1200 degree High Heat it is not as durable that is why I suggested the 1200 High Heat only. I don't believe the 1200 High Heat would be affected by brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and Gun Scrubber. I know Duracoat would have a problem with these cleaners. I haven't had any problems with gun cleaners on any the the guns I've done with the 1200 High Heat

The camo finish you find on shotguns you have to watch what cleaner you use on them.

I spent most of my time working for Rocky Mtn Arms disassembling firearms so they could be 'Bear Coated' and then reassembling firearms after that had been done. A side note is that SIGS have really tight tolerances and are a screaming beotch to reassemble without marring the finish if you are not VERY careful. But SIGS are great hand guns BECAUSE of their tight tolerances.

Bear Coat is a teflon paint, mainly used to coat the landing gears on F-15 fighters. It's REALLY expensive, like $10k a gallon. Yes, they do thin it out, because otherwise it's WAY too thick to put on a firearm.

Crayons or other things mentioned to fill the lettering will work. Right up until you put it in the oven. THEN it will melt all over that nice new paint job.

Also, consider grit blasting the parts you are considering painting. Oh, and USE PLASTIC GLOVES once you've got your surfaces clean and are ready to paint. You'd be surprised how well a finger print shows up. Your skin is just oily enough to pass that onto a newly bead or grit blasted piece of metal.

And unless you live alone, have a REALLY understanding wife, or are looking to get divorced, DO NOT USE the same oven that your wife cooks your meals in. Slight a chance as it is, you can literally have gasses come off the paint as it's drying in the oven that can be transfered to food your wife puts in the oven later. Don't ask. Personal experience. Cost me a new oven for my wife. And then a new stove top. And then a new refrigerator.

But this IS an excellent way to refinish a firearm. Or almost any other metal you wish to do this to.

A couple of items. You can ALSO use 'BBQ Grill' paint - it's good to at least 1200, though your color choices are pretty limited. I buy mine at Lowes in really large cans for like $3 -$4 each, but it has been a while. I tend to buy things in large quantities so I don't have to keep going back.

I use coat hangers to hang things in 'my' oven. Ask me WHERE I got this oven from. Remember I said "Cost me a new oven"? Guess where the old one ended up? Yep. In my shop. Comes in really handy.

Last, but not least, if you are using this method on pieces that will NOT see high heat (like that mag extension on that shotgun) and ARE looking for a flat finish, then hit it with one or two coats of 'Matte Clear' paint. It literally will take a dull flat paint and bring it to life. Not shiny really. More of an 'in between' flat paint and a gloss paint. I've used this trick on NUMEROUS items, including when I refinished the steel wheels on my military Blazer. Looks just like factory. If that's 'too glossy', hit it LIGHTLY with another coat of flat. FROM AT LEAST 16 inches and it looks spectacular.

It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.

GC

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I don't know about this stuff, but I've sandblasted and finished a few guns with both duracoat and GunKote and even the finest lettering comes through very clear. I thought it would be a problem too, but it isn't.

And unless you live alone, have a REALLY understanding wife, or are looking to get divorced, DO NOT USE the same oven that your wife cooks your meals in. Slight a chance as it is, you can literally have gasses come off the paint as it's drying in the oven that can be transfered to food your wife puts in the oven later. Don't ask. Personal experience. Cost me a new oven for my wife. And then a new stove top. And then a new refrigerator.

But this IS an excellent way to refinish a firearm. Or almost any other metal you wish to do this to.

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I just bought all that a year ago and have NO intentions of replacing any of it for at least 5 yrs. I was thinking of an old toaster over since it is just a slide. I may have to entend the bake time some but that's better than a $750 new stove/range!

A couple of items. You can ALSO use 'BBQ Grill' paint - it's good to at least 1200, though your color choices are pretty limited. I buy mine at Lowes in really large cans for like $3 -$4 each, but it has been a while. I tend to buy things in large quantities so I don't have to keep going back.

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I was wondering about the longitivity of this, it will see a lot of holstering and I don't want to have to re-do it every 2 months.

I have refinished the stock of a mauser FR8, that was really banged up and was patched in several places with Duplicolor spray truck bed liner. The stock looks like a new synthetic stock. It is as tough as nails.

Fr8 stocks if you can find them cost as much as a full gun........ a new stock for 8.00 out of a can

I just bought all that a year ago and have NO intentions of replacing any of it for at least 5 yrs. I was thinking of an old toaster over since it is just a slide. I may have to entend the bake time some but that's better than a $750 new stove/range!

I was wondering about the longitivity of this, it will see a lot of holstering and I don't want to have to re-do it every 2 months.

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I can actually help you with the cost of a new stove and or stovetop/oven combo. Go to Habitat for Humanity Resale store. Not sure where De Leon, Tx is (sad comment for an old Texas hand - most of my relatives still live in Texas). But most larger cities have one or two. I paid $125 for a like new Jennair double oven and $25 for a like new Jennair stovetop. The reefer is a used SubZero that we paid $250 for. But we now have basically brand new kitchen appliances on the cheap.

I can't say about longevity with a firearm that's in a holster a lot. But I can say that the wheels on my truck still look great after almost one year of driving it. It seems pretty tough, but as with ANY refinish, wear IS a concern. But I don't mind refinishing a piece once or twice a year. Especially with paint that is as inexpensive as the BBQ Grill paint.

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