Yemen - the Mountains

Yemen is no stranger to conflict. The spine of mountains towards the west of the country has provided a first line of defence for centuries, and many Yemenis have sought greater security in the fortified towns and houses which run along its heights.

The town of Shahara, in the north, is one of the most iconic of these mountain redoubts. Connected to the neighbouring village of Shaharat al-Faysh by a dramatic 17th century bridge at over 2,500 metres the views are stunning. In ancient times the town was only taken once but was unable to escape the aerial bombardment of the 1960s civil war.

The theme of independence and steadfast defence against outsiders continues through the fortified towns of the central mountains. The mountain fortress of Kawkaban held out against the Ottomans throughout their occupation of the rest of the country – even declaring itself an independent state called Kawkabaniyya.

At the southern end of the mountain chain is Ta’iz. Its name first appears in medieval times, and has sometimes served as the capital of the country. Its growth has been largely driven by trade, being the closest city to the important port of Mocha. Visited by Ibn Battuah during its heydays in the 14th century, the town is dominated by Cairo Castle which looks down on a series of beautiful whitewashed tombs and mosques making up a major part of the old town.