A big slow cooker is very useful at Thanksgiving, both as a cooking tool and as an extra heat source. Michele Scicolone, who has written solid books about using a slow cooker to advantage, including the forthcoming "The French Slow Cooker," says that the one thing it can't do is reheat food from a refrigerated or frozen state. (The heat won't penetrate quickly enough for safe heating.) But a slow cooker can keep hot food hot without drying it out: like the stuffing that comes out of a turkey, or just-made gravy, or mashed root vegetables, or casseroles that have been cooked in the oven. (Use the "warm" setting.)

And a slow cooker can cook some foods, like grits or mulled cider. Or even mashed potatoes. Here's her method: In a large slow cooker set on high heat, combine 4 pounds peeled potatoes with 1 smashed garlic clove, 1 teaspoon salt, and hot water just to cover. Cover and cook on high heat for 3 to 4 hours; the potatoes will slowly absorb the water and become soft. Scoop out of the cooker with a slotted spoon (save the cooking water) and into a bowl. Immediately mash with hot cream and soft butter, then salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes seem dry, add some cooking water. Return to the cooker, cover and keep warm.