Cabernet Franc: The Underrated Jewel of the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley, renowned for its splendid chateaux, holds a very special place in my heart. Living in Paris in the 1990's I spent many enjoyable week-ends at my good friend Béatrice's family home in a tiny village, 15 miles from Anger. In fact it was during my first visit to their home in 1986 that I first discovered the red wines of the Loire.

The Loire Valley wine region is both large and diverse, comprising over 70 different appellations, which are dotted all along the valley of the river Loire.

While most people are familiar with the Loire's white wines its red wines are still largely underrated outside of France. Perhaps, this is because they are typically characterized by delicacy, rather than power. Loire red wines are essentially about Cabernet Franc. Less tannic and more fragrant (think raspberry and lead pencil shavings) than Cabernet Sauvignon, it is often regarded as Cabernet Sauvignon's little brother. However, Cabernet Franc along with Sauvignon Blanc are in fact the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon!

One of the many things I love about Loire red wines is that they are for enjoying now. No need to cellar for years before enjoying. Certainly, many of the wines can age, but for the most part they are light to medium bodied with smooth tannins, and packed with juicy red fruit. In short, perfect for spring and summer.

The most important Cabernet Franc appellations in the Loire are Anjou Rouge, Bourgueil, Chinon, Saumur Champigny, and St. Nicholas-de-Bourgueil. Of these Bourgueil and Chinon tend to be the more full-bodied, with firmer tannins and greater ageing potential.

Dry with refreshing acidity, Loire reds pair with many different dishes. The lighter styles, which can also be served slightly chilled, are perfect with cured meats, grilled rainbow trout, steamed white asparagus, Pad Thai and fresh goat cheese. The more full-bodied Bourgueil or Chinon extend to stuffed quail, lamb kebabs, pulled pork, grilled hamburger or eggplant Parmigiana.

Hopefully I've whetted your appetite! So here are some great Loire reds that I've tried recently.

California - Direct shipping is allowed in California. In 2005 Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger converted California's reciprocal shipping laws to a permit system. Effective from January 1, 2006 any licensed winery in the United States can ship to consumers in California. There are no volume limits under the new law.