The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

The Ugly Duckling Boulder sits on the slope just up from the road just right and down from the Pogues area. It is somewhat popular because of it's selection of three moderate (5.9) routes. You can expect to share with other climbers here most of the time.

The three routes get slightly harder (more or less) as you go from right to left. The center and right route are getting slightly harder due to erosion of the ground below the starts. Expect this to continue if some measures aren't taken to slow the trend.

Quackers is the rightmost route on the Ugly Duckling Boulder. The start, which is severely undercut (and worsening with erosion), is the crux of the climb. Timid leaders or those unable to reach the holds can traverse in from the left. Once up, enjoy the steep juggy face all the way to the chains, which actually kicks back and is slightly overhanging for the last few feet! This is one of the greatest aspects of climbing at the Enchanted Tower: where else can yo...[more]Browse More Classics in New Mexico