Paul and Lucy Spadoni periodically live in Tuscany to explore Paul’s Italian roots, practice their Italian and enjoy “la dolce vita.”
All work is copyrighted and may not be reprinted without written permission from the author, who can be contacted at www.paulspadoni.com

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

The incomparable city wall of Lucca

When your family can't all ride bikes, there are other alternatives.

Monday, April 15, 2013

This is my third spring of living near Lucca, and it’s about
time I shared one of the secrets of why I come here: Le Mura. Lucca has a city wall that is absolutely incomparable. I
originally thought of a city wall as narrow, steep and made entirely of stone, but
in Lucca, the wall is enormous. The center is filled with dirt to withstand
cannon balls, and the top is wide and flat, perfect for walking, jogging or bicycling.
It rings the ancient historical center as a 4-kilometer linear tree-lined park.
The numerous wide, flat bastions are now used as grassy playgrounds. All along the circle are benches,
tables, play equipment and scenic views looking both inside the centro and without.

A lively game of Dominos keeps both participants and spectators attentive in rapt anticipation.

Despite the beauty of the wall and the vistas, it is people-watching
that really make a trip or two around the wall an unforgettable experience.
Mothers push children in strollers. Athletes use the wall as a fitness track, turning
laps on fancy bikes, sprinting or just jogging. Couples walk hand-in-hand or lie
on the grass engaged in deep conversations and expression of amore. Grandfathers hold hands with nipotini, widows in black dresses walk side-by-side,
teenagers gather in groups to try out their developing social skills, and

This busy mom walks her chilren while
using her telefonino to keep track of
her other responsibilities.

groups of ragazzi from school groups chatter
loudly under the guidance of their teachers. And then there is always gelato, espresso
and a cornetto, because just below
the wall is the city, with many ramps that lead down to the shops and then back
up again.

Lucca is very flat, so it an ideal place for biking, and it’s
not hard to find one of the many shops that rent bikes for about 3 euro an
hour. A bike can circle the city in 10 or 15 minutes. On foot, it takes about
45 minutes to an hour for a leisurely stroll. Much of this depends, though, on
how often you stop to take pictures or lie in the green grass. A trip around
the wall is a great way to start out a vacation in Lucca, because it gives you
an idea of the scope and size of the city. It’s also a great way to end a
vacation, because it reminds you of all you have seen and grown to love. And
come to think of it, it’s also a great way to pass a day at least once a week,
because it helps you stay in touch with nature by filling your lungs with fresh
air and the beautiful sights, smells and sounds of humanity, along with an
Italian city and country all at the same time.

Some use the green fields to write, sketch or paint.

The teacher is asking this group of Italian schoolchildren who wants a gelato.

1 comment:

The Lucca wall walk reminds me of the kind of activities that Gig Harbor would like to see on the Harbor edge walk with its many parks. People getting out and enjoying their surroundings and each other.

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About Me

First off, before you hassle me about our title, Lucy thought of it. Yes, I know some people may think broad is derogatory, but the etymology is uncertain and she doesn’t find it offensive, and it made me laugh. We have been married since 1974 and are empty-nesters now, which allows me to bring my submerged Italophilia into the open. We first came to live in Italy from February-April in 2011 and have returned during the same months every year. From 2011-2015, we lived in San Salvatore, at the foot of the hilltop city Montecarlo, where my paternal grandparents were born, raised and, in 1908, married. In late 2015, we bought a home in Montecarlo. We come for a variety of purposes: We want to re-establish contact with distant cousins in both Nonno’s and Nonna’s families, we want to learn the language and see what it is like to live as Italians in modern Italy, we like to travel and experience different cultures. Even if we aren’t successful at achieving these purposes, we love Italy and enjoy every moment here, so there is no chance we will be disappointed. I am grateful to God for giving me a wife who is beautiful, clever, adaptable and willing to jump into my dreams wholeheartedly.