Not long ago, our mothers demanded meat on the bone in butcher shops. They knew there was much flavor to be had in those bones. We’re talking marrow, that fatty, tasty tissue inside the bones that makes blood cells.

When folks complain about chicken or beef not “tasting the way when I was young,” they’re right. Today’s boned pieces are missing that magical marrow.

Boneless ham especially suffers. There’s no comparison with shank-in ham, so rarely roasted these days. Beef is almost entirely boneless, including steaks. Grocers argue it’s more convenient, and you’re not “wasting money” on bones.

That’s hardly the case. Once upon a time, they actually sold the bones. Beef soup could not be made without them.

Some have caught on, by the way. Marrow is making a comeback. Many of the fine, new restaurants are serving it with long forks to extract every morsel from the bone. Some food writers label it “primal brain food.”

If you’re still unconvinced, watch your dog attack a bone. He first laps all that tasty marrow out before he starts chewing.

Tantiana Shulenko of Slavutych, Ukraine, offers this Russian take on beef pot roast that owes its reputation to beef marrow. You’ll have to beg a butcher for the bones.

Make a bouquet garni: Place the peppercorns, bay leaves, parsley and dill into a small cheesecloth. Tie, and place in water with marrow bones, vegetables and salt in a large pot. Bring to a boil, skim the foam off. Boil for 10 minutes, add the beef roast, boil for 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3 1⁄2 hours, skimming occasionally and adding extra water if needed. Remove the roast from the pot and slice for serving.

Note: Strain 2 cups of the broth and thicken with 1 tablespoon corn starch for gravy.

Never miss a story

Choose the plan that's right for you.
Digital access or digital and print delivery.