mini tub pics.

OK I AM NEW TO THIS SITE. I STARTED LOOKING A FEW WEEKS AGO FOR SOME KIND OF PICS FOR MINI TUBS. I FOUND WHAT AMOUNTED TO NOTHING. I DECIDED TO GO AHEAD AND TAKE OFF LAST WEEK AND GROW SOME ***** AND DO IT. I STARTED ON MONDAY WITH THE PASSANGER SIDE. UNFORTUNATLY MY WIFES GRANDFATHER PASSED AWAY SO I HAD TO LOSE SEVERAL DAYS. WELL I GOT BACK INTO IT ON THURSDAY AFTER THE FUNERAL. I FINISHED UP ON FRIDAY WITH THE PASSANGER SIDE. I GOY UP EARLY THIS MORNING AND WENT TO ATLANTA TO SUMMIT TO GET SOME OFFSET LOWER COMTROL ARMS AND A TRANSMISSION REBUILD KIT. BUT AS SOON AS I GOT BACK HOME I JUMPED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. I GOT IT ALL CUT OUT AND READY TO FAB THE NEW TUBS. THIS SIDE WILL BE MUCH EASIER THAN THE PASSANGER SIDE DUE TO ONLY HALF OF THE TUB WILL NEED TO BE MADE BECAUSE THE AREA WHERE THE FUEL CAP IS INCLUDED IN THE FACTORY WHEEL WELL AND WILL NOT NEED TO GO AS FAR BACK AS THE PASSANGER SIDE. I AM INCLUDING SOME PICS OF THE WORK I HAVE DONE SO FAR. PLEASE REPLY WITH FEEDBACK AND LEY ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2374121

I may be asking a stupid question here but..... would I be able to stuff a 17x11 with almost 8" of backspacing with this mini tub? Just wondering because I'm wanting to run early 90's vette wheels and the ones off the ZR-1 are exactly that.

After seeing everyones mini tub, I had to take a crack at it, going to try and fit a 335/35/17, only have a 285/40 for now

I HAVE 18X10.5 WITH 8" BCKSPACING ON THEM I AM USING A 1" BILLET ADAPTER TO SET THE WHEELS OUT. I ALSO HAVE OFFSET CONTROL ARMS TO CLEAR THE TIRES AND THEY FIT GREAT IN ORDER TO DO A 8" BACKSPACING WITHOUT A SPACER YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE CUSTOM MADE CONTROL ARMS AND YOUR CONTROL ARM MOUNTS MOVED ON YOUR REAREND.YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH A 11" WHEEL WITH 8" BACKSPACING IF YOU USE A 3/4" SPACER OR ADAPTER AND OFFSET CONTROL ARMS YOU WILL HAVE TO ROLL THE LIP ON THE WELLS.

I want to apologize ahead of time for copying your car 500+HPTA. No seriously nice car, a little off topic but nice door panels, i like what you did with the gauges, center console, what did you do with the e-brake, unless i didn't look at your pictures close enough, and of coarse, nice mini tub

USED A AFTER MARKET HANDLE AND NSTALLED IT BETWEEN THE DRIVER SEAT AND THE DOOR. I GOT THE HANDLE FROM YEARWOOD SPEED THEY ARE BASED HERE I TOWN SO IT IS EASY TO DRIVE 10 MIN TO GET CUSTOM PARTS. THE HANDLES FROM THE DOORS ALSO CAME FROM YEARWOOD SPEED. THEY CAME UNCOVERED SO I PUT THE SAME MATERIAL I USED ON THE DOOR PANEL ON THEM. I MADE THE SPEAKER POD ON THE PANEL BY CUTTING OUT A CIRCLE FOR A 5 1/4" LEAVING A 1 1/4" CIRCLE. I ROUTED THE EDGES OF THE CIRCLE WITH A ROUND OVER BIT. TO GET THE ANGLE I TOOK THE NEW PANEL I CUT OUT OF 1/8" PANEL BOARD AND INSTALLED IT ON THE DOOR I CUT SEVERAL LENGTHS OF SPACERS TO GET THE ANGLE. NAILED IT IN PLACE AND USED SWEAT SHIRT MATERIAL AND STAPLED IT TO THE DOOR PANEL AND THE CIRCLE.(DO NOT CUT OUT THE CIRCLE YET). FIBERGLASS RESIN THE WHOLE THING, ON SECOND LAYER USE FIBERGLAS CLOTH WITH THE RESIN TO MAKE THE POD HARD ENOUGH TO COVER

88 red chicken how did you finish off the back side of our driver side? Now that i am done i wish i would have done mine a little differand just for looks.
By the way looks good bro.

Well at first i was thinking of carrying the high line of the tub all the way to the back of the filler neck area, but im going to try and put interior panels back in the car and modify them the best i can so you can't notice the mini tub, unless your really paying attention, so i made the it round over the wheel , then angled it back down to the hump area maybe only and inch or so higher. The only thing i regret now is not making the backing plate of the tub nicer on the drivers side, pass side turned out better. But you don't see it with all the tire in there anyways, thanks for the comment

Hey 88 a good way to cover up the waves in the sheet metal is to use a good spray on undercoating. This will cover up the waves and create a good sound deadener. i got mine from advanced auto parts. It took about 1 can per side. 7.86 per can 3m.
If you dont want to use undercoating just get rid of the high gloss paint and ese a flat finish. Light won't shine off of a flat finish like it is doing LOOK EVERYONE NO CAPS LOL LOL LOL

thanks for the comments, I can't wait to stuff it with some bad *** tire now, still have to fix the awesome hole in the hump someones previous fuel pump job, that duct tape is pretty trick hey!!!

so far so good! what did you do to rebuild the side of your frame rail after you cut it off? I hope you didnt just use the thin sheet metal from the tubs.

Im running 335/30/18's on a 12" rims with 8.5" of BS on my car. You should be fine with 8" of BS, but you will be real close to the LCA, might want to get some with offset bushings. Im using custom offset control arms that Spohn made for me.

, but im going to try and put interior panels back in the car and modify them the best i can so you can't notice the mini tub, unless your really paying attention,

thats the real trick with this work, getting the interior back in and looking good. Im almost finished with mine, once it warms up i have 1 more piece to finish and the interior is back in. I widened the panels starting in the rear and gradually widening them to a total of 4" by the time you get to the doors. They looks stock too, i usually have to point it out or people dont notice. I have a thread on this in the fab board, i have to dig it back up, i havent updated it in a few months

After re-evaluating my wavy mirror tubs, i went to canadian tire and bought a gallon of undercoat/bedliner 40 bucks up here....dang, but im just going to gun everything underneath, then start re-assembly, thanks 500+hpta. 86TA, how are those lca's holding up, what kind of power are you putting down, i was thinking more of a boxed design with a jut to clear the wheel, but nothings for sure yet. Oh and i didn't cut far enough into the frame rail to need to add to it. I'll will have to measure my backspacing, Eagles site says either 4.5 or 5.5 bs, i think its 5.5, and initially i was thinking just add 2" more of backspace, so that should get me close to that 8" mark. Did you go with an adjustable panhard bar, i took 1 coil out of the rears, so im guessing the rear ends going to want to be closer to the drivers side!!! Can't wait to see that interior panel thread

my offset control arms are holding up fine, but im using street tires, and only have so much traction with them. I have not tried them with slicks or drag radials, so i dont know about that. But if i was going to run a drag radial or slick, they would not have to have 8.5" of back spacing, so i would just swap my other tubular arms on for that purpose.
My motor makes 501hp and 520 ft/lbs at the flywheel.

I will have to dig up that interior thread, its around somewhere, probably a few months back was the last update, i will see if i can find it and maybe grab some updated photos

Thanks 86TA, thats good to know, im going to be making a little less on the motor, around 450hp, but think i might spray it, ive got a mr big shot plate i was pondering whether or not to use it. At least i know it should be fine on street tires, makes sense with the different bs with slicks, We just lost our drag strip in Calgary, so most of its life for the next while will be spent on the street, unless i trailer it to edmonton or medicine hat (that probably doesn't mean anything to anyone, but at least 3 hours to a strip). How did you go about getting spohn to build you a set of lca's. That would sure take a load off my mind not worrying about my welding back there when im standing on the throttle.

). How did you go about getting spohn to build you a set of lca's. That would sure take a load off my mind not worrying about my welding back there when im standing on the throttle.

make sure you need them first, you have to remove a lot of metal before the control arm gets in the way enough to need the ones that i have.

I emailed him and asked if he would be interested, i made a cheesy prototype/mockup piece and sent it to him. ~2 weeks later i had my control arms. I was quite happy with the whole ordeal, he was very accommodating. I was told that he still has the prototype piece that i made.

Oh, by the way, it was made to work with an 18" wheel, it most likely wont work on a 17" or smaller wheel.

i am using 315/30/18 with 8" back spacing on my rear and with the original boxed control arms that i was using i only had no more than 1/8" clearance. now with my offset control arms i hage about 1/2-3/4" they work great.
ps 86ta the interior looks great good job man.it gave e some great ideas.

the only thing thats on the outside of the inner tub is the lower control arm now, ive got about 2 inches from the hoop of the wheel to the control arm now, maybe 2.5" if it did not have the flared bottom edge. I think i will look for some offset ones to give me some breathing room. Nice job on the interior by the way 86TA, if i were looking at the finished product only, i would probably not even notice...awesome. What kind of offset lca's did you use 500+HPTA, just tubular with offset bushings, or an actual offset control arm, forgive me if that sounds goofy