100 Best Restaurants 2010: Spice Xing

Cuisine: The sibling restaurant to chef Sudhir Seth’s Passage to India trades the elegance and formality of its big sister for a more casual and vibrant experience. It’s a looser operation, but the profusion of flavors emanating from the kitchen—complex, vivid curries, lovingly rendered street snacks, well-blistered breads—is testament to the commitment to authenticity. A tantalizing roster of cocktails complements—and balances—the heat in the dishes.

Mood: The quiet, colorful space manages to be stylish without feeling off-putting, soothing without being somnolent, and provides an appealing backdrop for the riot of flavors on the table.

Best for: A grand meal that’s not out of reach for ordinary weekday dining.

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.