Next on the list are the Koni shocks. Which should correct most everything that should have been on the coach when it left the factory.

I am not sure who made the recommendation to you about just installing the Safe-T-Plus alone however speaking to experts has proven to me that installing both the STP and the front (I have an original Davis) track bar as a system is the complete solution that one should be looking for. 1 device or the other just does not seem to work well on its own.

In my experience if the STP is not properly installed it will indeed make your ride worse because you'll be fighting the steering wheel all day long. There could be other issues such as weights and loadings, alignment and air pressures that should be ruled out as well.

On your 2008 motorhome Bilstein shocks came standard. Now although those shocks may be sprung a bit tighter there should be nothing dramatically wrong with the coach handling qualities of the OE Bilsteins. In the after market, Koni FSD shocks take your ride and handling to the next level and I'm sure that you will be pleased with the quality of the ride. In the after market as well, Bilsteins have a different part number than the OEs and ride differently that the OE shocks that were installed at the factory.

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I was at the FMCA Rally in Indio in January and decided on purchasing the Steer Safe steering stabilizer system. We have since driven 2000 miles and are quite pleased with the results. It isn't perfect, but it definitely helps cut down on the wandering!

Jan-2 2006 I pulled off my lot (Detroit, MI) , Checked my lights and found the tail lights on the towed were dark.. Checked some things, pushed a button in the towed, and got the wiring fault in the MH fixed when I got to Las Vegas.

I can tell you this.. After wresteling that workhorse 2,000 miles (About) it was nice to park it and drive the Lumina APV (Towed)

We returned in the spring and I had two thigns installed

1: A davis True-Track (NOTE: I had the front done, they tell me a rear one is bettter, I will get one of those later from Ultra-Power and Brazil's) the other was a Blue Ox Tru-Center

That November (Thanksgiving) We again drove it to Las Vegas

Man was that very same Lumina APV squirmy when we arrived. It was really hard to drive.

Same car, Same motor home.. You tell me if the additions made a difference.

This summer the Tru-Center froze up on me and had to be removed.... I did not notice much improvement when General RV bolted it on.. But let me tell you I sure noticed it when I took it off to ship back to Pender, NE (Blue Ox)

I would also touch the topic of weight distribution. this is a bit out of date, but for others it should be thought about. You said you were 600 lbs out from one side to the other. That is ideally too much. I weight everything I put into my basement and distribute from side to side front to back so it comes within limits. The front needs to be heavier. This is sometimes hard to do in the heavier motorhome. But Workhorse will use this if you are porpoising and want to have them change the shocks. With proper weight distribution, you will travel down the road straight. Remember your passenger weight as well. The rest of the add-ons you can put on for your suspension, will help, I have them. But start out correct.

I came in late also and have to agree with BobR the 600 lbs needs to be moved to drivers side. Your passenger side has already weight built in with kitchen fridge,Gen, batteries, holding tanks on that side.
Your slides you would think that are on drivers side would make up for difference but it doesn't happen.
Its harder to add weight on drivers side because of smaller compartments because of the slides but you need to balance the coach as much as possible.
My coach and I would say many others are set up this way so I've placed tool cases and as many heavy items as I can on drivers side. I have split water tanks and will block off passenger side tank and fill the one on drivers side to get weight equal as possible.
Just doing that may make your handling allot better.

I have a 2008 Safari Trek on the W20 chassis. It too wanders and requires constant back and forth correction of the steering wheel. I have heavy sway bars front and rear, trak bars front and rear, a Blue Ox stabilizer, 6 degrees of caster and still it wanders constantly. It just seems to me that there is to much play in the steering box. There is no adjustment on the box that I can see. Does anyone have any info on steering box problems??
Thanks, Larry

That's just the characteristic of the steering box they use on the 07+ Workhorse chassis, we have modified the older style steering box onto the newer chassis once before...definitely not an easy or inexpensive upgrade however.