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Indian Railways, often upheld as the greatest ‘gift’ of the British Raj, spans the length and breadth of India, connecting a diverse people from Kanyankumari to Kashmir. Despite 65 years of nation-building, there are few common features that unite India’s billion-strong population. Yet, as my train laboured along the paradisiacal Malabar Coast, I lowered my gaze from the horizon and found one: rubbish.