Ballard Past, Ballard Present, Ballard Future

The past comes first, firmly camouflaged on the flank of Phinney Hill. Bruce Naftaly's venerable Le Gourmand (23 years old!) and its offshoot, Sambar. Yes, the main dining room has been updated with puppets. (Plus ça change! Carla's in the Elysée Palace; get over it.) The patio is lovely, jasmine-scented. Only four stools at le tout petit bar, where Microsofties in muted tees nibble frites délectables. An oasis.

Further down Market, a new joint, Hamurger Harry's, where Sea Breeze once wafted. Neon like Johnny Rocket's, but upscale (i.e., $10 burgers): serious cocktails, salads if you don't want fries, ESPN in place of jukebox. No website yet.

On Ballard Avenue, the Olympic Athletic Club still awaits financing to complete its transformation into a luxury hotel. Shiku Sushi is set to open soon in place of Divino Wine Bar; sushi-master is Ken Yamamoto of Shiki, bottom of Queen Anne. Two doors down, another sushi parlor, Moshi Moshi. Hello? Hello? The London Moshi has conveyor belts; Ballard's probably not. Owner is Kevin Erickson, in the process of selling his wine bar, Bricco, top of Queen Anne. Is this the future? Queen Anne morphing into Ballard, wine bars into sushi parlors?