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They are expensive. Did you notice enough difference in handling to make it worth the cost?

Roll

Not expensive if you build it yourself, but check on e bay.
I built mine out of thrown away stuff I found at a salvage yard, a little bit of welding stuff together & buying about $20.00 worth of grade 8 bolts & it made a great deal of difference in handling.
That tail wag you feel, some of it comes from the rear axle walking side to side under the chassis & in turn throwing the front of the coach from side to side, so your chasing the steering wheel to stay in your lane.
Neil

I got the trac bar from Brazel's RV. Put it on my self in about a hour. Also got rid of the junk bilstein shocks while I was at it. What this did for ride and handling was (priceless) to say the least. Put the koni shocks on the front also. And Centramatic wheel balancers on all four corners. Now this thing drives straight and smooth. It wasn't cheap, but I think way cheaper then a new Dutch Star DP. That how I justify it to myself.

kscrude - I went to the Centramatic to learn more. Curious how this device works and if it works as advertised. Did you experience less vibration and a smoother ride? Also looking to swap out the bilstein shock. What a shame but like you, a smooth ride is everything. Thanks.

The rear track bar will make a big difference for the good. If you buy new or used the later rear end housings have a different bolt mounting pattern. Here's a picture of a home made one on a 2006 chassis.

kscrude - I went to the Centramatic to learn more. Curious how this device works and if it works as advertised. Did you experience less vibration and a smoother ride? Also looking to swap out the bilstein shock. What a shame but like you, a smooth ride is everything. Thanks.

Truckers have been using them for years with good results. I have tried balancing beads but never liked them. I am sold on the Centramatics. I called them up in Texas and they explained everything real good and told me what would fit my rig. Also tried a set on a peterbilt at the same time and the driver loves them. You won't be disappointed, I know I am not. About two hundred per axle and easy to install if you can take the wheels off.

Nicely done. At $500+ for store-bought trac bars, the home made version is enticing. Were the ends of the pipes fabricated or purchased? If there's a source for pipe and ends, the rest of the project is straight forward.

The 4-link bar looks good if you don't want to do much welding, you would need a 32" bar then fab up some brackets. I used 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" black pipe and rear spring bushings with one new bolt to the housing. The upper housing bolts were the old bolts. On the frame I use a hole that was there and drilled one new hole. All parts were scrap stock except for the three bolts, so less than 20.00. It made a big big difference.
I also made a watts link but we sold the couch before we tried it.

My version of a home made track bar is shown below. Must have if towing a toad 4 down. I can now drive one handed like driving a big car instead of being a "sheep herder" trying to jockey the rig down the road steering from side to side. Build or buy one, do the cheap handling fix and marvel at how well your rig now handles!