That gear jammer is a cool "toy"! The mechanical seal can still be purchased from Honda for about $30. Do some searching here and you will find the part number (Note: not the FL400 mech seal part number). When the mech seal was readily available, Randy used to replace it when doing a bottom end. I just had a top and bottom done and then oops,after a few hours it began to leak so I say get that new seal installed, also get the mechanical seal's oil seal as well. Its still available too.

Where has the "gear jammer tool" been all my life???? Ordered. Awesome. And THANK YOU!

Worked pretty well loosening the big nut to the sprocket. Although, there is a youtube of a guy using the same tool on a CR500 bike and snapped the tool. Who's to say the guy was doing something wrong but he did break it.

Will make checking/changing my Zillas' wet side main seal muuuuch easier.

So, I'm finally getting back to putting this Engine together. I froze the crank bearing overnight and after they were ice cold I put the cases in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes. Bearings dropped right in.

After a week, it was time to assemble the lower end. I froze each case with the bearing in it overnight. Then I torched the end of the crank for a few minutes and pressed the crank in the cases using the puller I made. The crank pressed in much easier this time with the crank being hot and bearing being frozen.

Now I'm working on grinding the starter housing so I have clearance between the starter and cylinder.

So, I'm finally getting back to putting this Engine together. I froze the crank bearing overnight and after they were ice cold I put the cases in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes. Bearings dropped right in.

After a week, it was time to assemble the lower end. I froze each case with the bearing in it overnight. Then I torched the end of the crank for a few minutes and pressed the crank in the cases using the puller I made. The crank pressed in much easier this time with the crank being hot and bearing being frozen.

Now I'm working on grinding the starter housing so I have clearance between the starter and cylinder.

Looking good sir!The crank looks more like a 350 crank than a pilot crank, Is it different?

A lightened crank assembly lets the Engine rev quicker, faster throttle response. It works best when the rod and piston are also light. Heavy road and piston assembly can negate gains from the lightened crank.

Ha, nice use of that cloth diaper!! Those things make awesome shop rags!! We used them as "burp cloths" for our kids. As soon as my son was off the baby bottles and didn't need a burp cloth anymore, I reallocated all of our "cloths" to the shop...even the yellow, blue, purple and pinks ones, lol.

Haha. that's histerical you noticed the cloth diaper. I didn't notice I was using one till you mentioned it. Yeah my wife attempted to cloth diaper with our first one till she gave up with it and ruined my washing machine.

I like that install tool, Hoser made me one that is very similar in fact, they work really well indeed.If I may ask can you take a picture of the cases where the studs thread into? I ask due to mine are not welded on the bottom, meaning you can actually see the studs themselves, which I can't see being the correct way to modify the cases for the top end. Thanks in advance!

I like that install tool, Hoser made me one that is very similar in fact, they work really well indeed.If I may ask can you take a picture of the cases where the studs thread into? I ask due to mine are not welded on the bottom, meaning you can actually see the studs themselves, which I can't see being the correct way to modify the cases for the top end. Thanks in advance!

I'll get some pics over to you tonight Mud. I didn't remember seeing any welding done where the studs thread into the cases. Are the studs expose to be welded to the cases? The only welding done on the clutch side case is above the area where the crank comes out of the case. I assume that was done to reinforce the case where excess shaving was done to match the porting to the 500 jug.

I like that install tool, Hoser made me one that is very similar in fact, they work really well indeed.If I may ask can you take a picture of the cases where the studs thread into? I ask due to mine are not welded on the bottom, meaning you can actually see the studs themselves, which I can't see being the correct way to modify the cases for the top end. Thanks in advance!

I'll get some pics over to you tonight Mud. I didn't remember seeing any welding done where the studs thread into the cases. Are the studs expose to be welded to the cases? The only welding done on the clutch side case is above the area where the crank comes out of the case. I assume that was done to reinforce the case where excess shaving was done to match the porting to the 500 jug.

Thanks, I would love to see the mod on your cases to compare. Whats the psi on compression cold on that Engine please. I wish to use to compare to my readings as I have not a clue for my Engine.

I like that install tool, Hoser made me one that is very similar in fact, they work really well indeed.If I may ask can you take a picture of the cases where the studs thread into? I ask due to mine are not welded on the bottom, meaning you can actually see the studs themselves, which I can't see being the correct way to modify the cases for the top end. Thanks in advance!

I'll get some pics over to you tonight Mud. I didn't remember seeing any welding done where the studs thread into the cases. Are the studs expose to be welded to the cases? The only welding done on the clutch side case is above the area where the crank comes out of the case. I assume that was done to reinforce the case where excess shaving was done to match the porting to the 500 jug.

Thanks, I would love to see the mod on your cases to compare. Whats the psi on compression cold on that Engine please. I wish to use to compare to my readings as I have not a clue for my Engine.

Attached are pics of the case from clutch side Mud. Doesn't appear the stud mounts were reinforced but the port side of the case was. Can't understand why you have a chunk of the case missing where the stud goes. Haven't finished Engine yet so can't give you numbers on compression.

I also attached a pic of the starter housing being grinded down for cylinder intake clearance.

Don't know if this has been a problem for other's building a low end pilot Engine but I had a hell of a time getting the counter balance shaft end to align with the supporting bearing on clutch side crank case. I had to freeze the bearing housing and torch the tip of the counter shaft so it go in somewhat smoothly. Smashed my finger with a mallet during this pain in the ass process...

Finally had some spare time work on the CR500 project. I finally have an air leaked tested Engine almost ready to be dropped in!! I'm glad I checked for air leaks before I dropped in the Engine because I had a leak between the intake manifold and reed valve...

Finally had some spare time work on the CR500 project. I finally have an air leaked tested Engine almost ready to be dropped in!! I'm glad I checked for air leaks before I dropped in the Engine because I had a leak between the intake manifold and reed valve...

Are you running a electric fuel pump? I don't see the fitting in the jug for the pulse tube.

The pulse fitting is on the other side of the cylinder. Ha.. That would of sucked installing the Engine with no place to connect the pulse hose to!!

As far as the clutch goes, I'm going to have some material removed from the clutch and dremel whatever I need from the cylinder. I have a buddy who is a machinist for Rocketdyne/Aerojet. He can use one of their top secret lathes to care of the clutch

I'm going to use the powerbloc clutch for this Engine that I'm currently running now in the pilot.

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