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Had a friend drive my boat today (2017 Chap SC 250) and he said the steering was way too loose. Turn the wheel 2 or 3 full turns before the motor moves significantly. Caught me by surprise bc this is the first/only boat i've owned (bought in July) and I just assumed that's normal. Well it really bothered him and he's an older guy who's owned many power boats. We talked to the lady I bought it from in the Marina and she explained that's just the way the hydraulic assist works on these chaps. Said she'd have someone look at it this week and it's possible something needs bleeding but that's probably just the way it is.
Anyone have thoughts on this?
Thanks

Sorry this is posted twice. I think I posted in the wrong sub-forum. Hopefully, I can get better repsonse here.
So I've searched the internet trying to find the specs for the Steering wheel replacement that fits my 2004 204. I've looked at Cecil, West, etc and they all have the official Chaparral version listed at well over 300. Please do not point me to the parts guide or to these sellers. Ive been there and cannot find the information I need on what kind of hub or attachment I need in order to purchase an after market part that fits.
Can anyone tell me what kind of after market steering wheel will fit this boat?

Recently purchased a nice low hours(160) 2002 183SS. I noticed a few drops of fluid on the carpet and looked up to find the helm leaking where the steering cable comes in. I put a ziplock bag on it to catch the leak and continued using it. Here is what I've noticed in the couple trips I've taken it out on since buying it:
The steering wheel doesn't seem to be indexed correctly.
It steers fine at cruising speed but doesn't seem to do as well at slow speeds(docking or trailering)
I am a serious Do It Yourselfer and would like to fix it. Do I just need to purchase the Teleflex 91523 helm and drop it in or is their a seal on the end of the cable that needs to be replaced? I appreciate any feedback or help!!!

I posted a question on here a day or so ago and got no replies... so maybe I'm the only one who has had this issue.
My teleflex tilt column was flopping all over the place. I was sure something needed replacing.
So I decided to show everyone what I did... very simple and now my steering is perfect... no wobble... no play at all.
This was in a 2002 186 SSi ... so yours may be a little different.
--Pop the center cap off the wheel.
--Remove the nut and washer holding on the wheel.
--Remove the nut and washer
--Remove the steering wheel
--Pry the back of the rubber boot from the plastic bezel and remove it
--Remove the two screws I am pointing at in the pics below
--Now you have to press in two tabs on the inside of the bezel (right beside the screws you just removed).
--Pull the bezel to remove it
--NOW you will see two large screws (circled below) - tighten them and reassemble.
One of my screws was about to fall out and the other was halfway out. Probably a good thing I didn't take my buddy's advice that "it's just normal in a boat".
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/sikanimator/4_zpsjfq5anuc.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/sikanimator/3_zpscl5sr81q.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/sikanimator/2_zpstclgptis.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/sikanimator/1_zpsiu3mshdt.jpg

I have an unusual challenge : I have a 2000 200 SSE [purchased used] I have already purchased a new hub that matches an aftermarket steering wheel, however when I went to make the simple swap out, I found that the center steering nut will not loosen, how might I remove the hub in this case. Note that the new steering wheel does not match the bolt size of the original hub. Removing the steering wheel itself is simple except one of the six original hex screws was seized, this is not really supposed to be a problem since I have a replacement hub... as far as the old hub, I want to put a little pressure on the hub outward with a puller and then try a removal of the seemingly stripped nylon jam nut but cant get enough movement up/outward on the [or what i assume to be the] spline shaft to nudge or encourage the nut to loosen. The center bolt on the steering hub just spins, i.e. will not loosen [note: nut either by design [i doubt it] or by previous error the nut will not remove the normal way]. It seems to have a nylon insert jam lock nut, the threads seem to be stripped as the nut will not loosen with a 3/4" socket and ratchet set.

Hello.
I own a Chaparral 2008 236 SSX. IN/OUT 5.0 Volvo Penta. Went out in the water with the g-kids. About 10 or 15 MPH at the St. Petersburg/Tampa channel run aground. Engine shut off. With the help of my g-kids pull the boat back. Jump in the water, was a bit murky, couldn't see the prop well. Feel by hand around the propeller nothing tangle up, no "visible" damage (my hands didn't feel anything out of the ordinary). Once deep enough started the engine. Started perfect, let it run for about a min (neutral), steady and smooth. Normal temp, Oil Pressure, battery charge etc. Shut it down, inspected fluids, hoses again for leaks, or any damages. Nothing visible. Started the engine again. Slowly went to our camping spot. Did the whole inspection again in better visibility water. No visible damage. Took it to the open water and went "pedal to the metal" smooth and find. Here when the problem started: while making turns left/right during the test period notice the boat turns more to the right than to the left. Stopped and try in reverse. Sure enough when turning wheel to the left; very little response. Turn to the right full response. Took the boat home. Out of the water turn the steering full left and right. Sure enough prop is turning more to the right than to the left (by an 1 1/2 to 2 inches), Guys, what did I broke???

Hi
Question for you all as to whether this is normal behaviour on a 190 SSi alpha one gen 2 stern leg.
At low speed the boat drifts from left to right, then back to left, repeat. I find myself constantly correcting. The leg is at the lower quarter mark. Revs are a bit over idle but nowhere near plane speed. On the plane no problem at all.
On dry land there does not appear to be any left to right play in the leg.
Any thing I should check?
thanks
Greg

OK, I am very new to boating. I purchased a 1990 Chaparral 1800 SL with a Volvo-Penta AQ250? engine and a Volvo-Penta SP-A outdrive. Many many small problems but none insurmountable. The power trim don't work. I did some research and found that there is a rack and pinion gear on the outdrive responsible for that. I inspected the boat and low and behold the rack is missing from that location. The pinion gear is there but no rack. Also while I was there I was trying to figure out this whole SUPER DIFFICULT TO STEER problem. I found what I would call excessive freeplay in the head unit that steers and trims the boat. I think I need to remove the outdrive and rebuild that entire location for the trim and steering. Now for the real problem! Where the heck can I find those parts? I am betting there is a rebuild kit out there somewhere that includes seals, shims, bushings and the like but for the life of me I cannot find them. When I look for those parts all I can find is the zinc or a couple other parts but not the rack or anything that resembles a rebuild kit for steering and trim. OK, so apparently I cannot post images large enough to look at. The 5K requirement makes it waaaaaaaaay too small to view. Any help is apreciated HELP!!!

Hi all, I recently purchased a 1994 Sunesta 220. When at slow speed the boat wanders or oscillates back and forth within about a 40 degree arc or more. Is this common with this boat series? At high speed it does fine. On a separate note, It had a fuel problem where the engine would starve for fuel at high RPM's. At first it would go about 1 minute at 3500 then start backfiring through the carb and want to die. as I continued running it, the RPM would only hold at progressively lower limits, till after about 1 hr it would only hold about 1000 rpm. If I let the engine cool it would go at 3000 RPM for less than 1 min and then continue the RPM slide back down again. I have seen these symptoms before but usually with no mention of the fix. For mine, I found the timing set at 4 degrees instead of 8. The fuel problem was the anti siphon valve on top of the gas tank. I also shaved about 1/4 " off the pickup tube as the plastic gas tank has settled with age so the pickup was closer to the bottom of the tank. Thanks for your input, Rob

Hi all, I recently purchased a 1994 Sunesta 220. When at slow speed the boat wanders or oscillates back and forth within about a 40 degree arc or more. Is this common with this boat series? At high speed it does fine. On a separate note, It had a fuel problem where the engine would starve for fuel at high RPM's. At first it would go about 1 minute at 3500 then start backfiring through the carb and want to die. as I continued running it, the RPM would only hold at progressively lower limits, till after about 1 hr it would only hold about 1000 rpm. If I let the engine cool it would go at 3000 RPM for less than 1 min and then continue the RPM slide back down again. I have seen these symptoms before but usually with no mention of the fix. For mine, I found the timing set at 4 degrees instead of 8. The fuel problem was the anti siphon valve on top of the gas tank. I also shaved about 1/4 " off the pickup tube as the plastic gas tank has settled with age so the pickup was closer to the bottom of the tank. Thanks for your input, Rob

Wife bought an old 198XL Chaparral this winter and she is one to always have a project for me. She got the boat and trailer for the price of the trailer alone, but it needed some work. I am an engineer and can't let old die...just have to fix stuff. After 'some' engine work this spring (rebuilt V8)...i.e. the last owner did some weird things to the boat to include PAINTING the teak...ugh...I am getting some of the nits out. Most everything works except the trim gauge/sensors, the steering is a little loose, and the throttle handle sticks with little play for neutral. The boat needs some cleanup, a good buff, etc but gets us on the water. Other than that we are cruising our waterways regularly this spring already - just got waterfront and a pier. Any help on the parts, suggestions, or approaches to the above issues are appreciated!!

This sounds expensive...Perhaps a gimbal bearing? Comments are (MOST) welcome! Here are the symptoms of my steering problems (note: I am NOT using the boat until the problems are disgnosed and corrected) At high speed I need to turn the wheel several times before it reacts and begins to turn.At low speed I feel like I have no control at all (sales guy told me it is because the boat is a 'Deep V' Hull but my last boat was also Deep-V and it wasn't difficult to control)At around 10 knots on occasion while holding the steering wheel straight (not turning) the boat will simply start to turn hard (usually to the left/port) forcing me to desperately 'right' the boat.In reverse, no matter which way the wheel is 'cut', the boat only goes in one direction making k-turns very difficult.

This sounds expensive...Perhaps a gimbal bearing? Comments are (MOST) welcome! Here are the symptoms of my steering problems (note: I am NOT using the boat until the problems are disgnosed and corrected) At high speed I need to turn the wheel several times before it reacts and begins to turn.At low speed I feel like I have no control at all (sales guy told me it is because the boat is a 'Deep V' Hull but my last boat was also Deep-V and it wasn't difficult to control)At around 10 knots on occasion while holding the steering wheel straight (not turning) the boat will simply start to turn hard (usually to the left/port) forcing me to desperately 'right' the boat.In reverse, no matter which way the wheel is 'cut', the boat only goes in one direction making k-turns very difficult.

Hi everyone, I have a 2002 200 SSE that I purchased a few years ago. I recently found a pin hole leak on the 90o barb fitting where the hydraulic hose attaches to the steering ram. I am assuming that is it the high pressure hose, it has smaller fittings and goes right from the pump to the ram. The other hose is routed through a cooler. I have two problems. The first issue is that I can't get the corroded fitting off. I have tried liquid wrench but it hasn't worked. If I apply any more force, I will end up rounding off the fittings. I am not sure what material they are made of so am not sure if a torch is a good idea, especially since I have covered them with liquid wrench. My next step is to try and pull the entire ram with the hoses attached to give me a better shot at them. Good idea or not recommended? The mounting bracket for the ram has some odd looking bolts on it with little tabs that I assume are there to keep them from backing out. Is it going to be difficult to remove? The second issue is finding replacement hoses. I have looked through the posts on here and have found a few with what seems to be the correct hoses, however, the diagram seems to show only one end with an elbow connection, mine has elbows on both ends. The other question is the length. My hose wraps around underneath and behind the engine. I haven’t seen any online that seem long enough. If I get a hose that is too short but that has the right connections, can I splice in a piece of hose, or is that a really bad idea? Thanks, Jay

Splashed the new 246 SSi for the first time on Thursday. First thing I noticed is the wheel is about 1/16 to 1/8 turn clockwise when steering dead ahead. The vessel has 1.1 hours on it so just wondering if this is a characteristic of the boat at the beginning of the break-in period or is it an adjustment I need to get the dealer to make? Is this related to a thrust alignment problem or is the Telex steering mechanism just out of center? I had a new Tahoe Q6 Sport in 2008 with an Alpha 1 and similar Telex steering system that was not misaligned. Thanks, mates.

After running new to us 256 ssi for a couple of hours now I am pretty convinced I have other than normal play in my steering system. From my survey, and from speaking to the techs who serviced my drive last week everyone agrees that the Gimbal is tight and in good shape. Does anyone have a troubleshooting guide on how to inspect additional steering components? Below are my symptoms. The steering is tight and responsive at speed but at no wake I have serious bow wander and the wheel feels like it can turn about 60 degrees of a turn before I can feel the hydraulic back-pressure, then it tightens up in that direction and I have 60-90 degrees of turn back the other direction before I feel hydraulic back-pressure. I drove another duo prop in the marina yesterday and it felt a lot tighter and more responsive. I am doing additional research and from searching here I see some folks here have replaced various components but I am looking for a step by step guide to inspect components; most of what I find is "Gimbal is at fault" or "that is normal play" or "tabs will cure wander". Its not even the wander that is driving me nuts but just the major slop. I am looking for a guide to inspect components to verify this is normal or repair/replace the offending parts. Other than this, the corsa water leak (thanks Joe for pointing me in the right direction) and a trim gauge issue, the boat is great and I am still happy over all. Thanks in advance.