Hi everyone, I've made a few more changes this month for not that much cash outlay and managed to get the weight of my Boardman down below the 22lbs / 10kg mark, which I'm very happy with. I hadn't expected to achieve this figure yet but it was the huge shift in the weights of the tyres and tubes that have made the biggest difference.

More importantly the bike now feels great to ride and really dialled in, it took me a bit of time to settle on a riding position that worked for me but as you can see from the photos it now sits much better than it previously did and it actually feels much lighter to handle in every way.

Recent jobs were: Cutting the excess steerer tube, losing the spacers, new stem, new tubes, new tyres and re-replaced the headset top cap and bolt for an even lighter combined MT Zoom one.All of these changes and mainly the tyres and tubes have brought the weights down to 21.949 lbs / 9.956 kgCurrent spend is £876 and I've just got hold of a second hand FSA Afterburner BB30 crankset which should save me at the very least 100 grams when fitted, I'll update the figures again when I get that job done as it'll probably be the last for some time.

I've added another spreadsheet below with all new weights and some new photos. Hope you like.

Yeah one of the FSA bearings collapsed, no idea why. It's an FSA part so I guess they're the ones to blame. Got to say though Halfords were great. They replaced it straight away no questions asked, pretty good as it wasn't me who purchased the bike from them. Absolutely no problems since then.Has yours been fine since, did you get all the jobs done under the warranty?

Thanks mate, the 11.42kg was weighed after the reflectors, plastic cassette guard and mega heavy Wellgo pedals were removed. All the weights are without pedals.Other than the weight loss work that can be done for free it's cost me £276 to bring the weight down, the only other relatively cheap job left (apart from the crankset I've still yet to fit, that'll take me to £300) are brake rotors but I'm not going to replace them until the current ones are causing problems.

those mavic rims are pretty heavy... a set of stans crests or similar would save a chunk for not a ridiculous additional spend... and any weight saved from rotating unsprung mass is worth a stack more elsewhere on the bike.

Have you thought about running a single chain ring up front? That would save a bit of weight.

That's definitely something to consider for the future, though this year because of injury I've not really done enough riding on different types of terrain so I couldn't give a definative answer to what an ideal set-up would be. I'd love to lose it though, I honestly never use the inner ring at the moment. Quite often on the road I need more gears whilst descending, there must be a more ideal set up I reckon but that's for another time.

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those mavic rims are pretty heavy... a set of stans crests or similar would save a chunk for not a ridiculous additional spend... and any weight saved from rotating unsprung mass is worth a stack more elsewhere on the bike.

As I've said before, I made a conscious choice to leave the wheelset alone and to replace the more interchangeable parts. I'm happy that I did as I've enjoyed the fettling, learning and research that I've done searching for the best parts that I can afford for what i want to achieve. The wheels are in great condition and I can't justify spending out on a new set at the moment so they'll stay until either I'm feeling rather flush or they need replacing. Now that the bike is pretty much where I'm happy with I'm looking to grow into it and learn what may be the best way to go in future, a new wheelset will definitely be something to look at in future but I'm made up with the figure that I've got to without spending a massive amount.

you can reduce the weight of the shifter cable, as long as there is enough slcakc for full movement of the bars.

also the frnot brake cable is way too long - shortening it is not too difficult - one nut to unscrew at the brake lever, cut hose to length. remove the crushed olive - I use a dremel disc to split it, then use a sharp knife to cut off the brake inner hose from around the barbed insert - you can reuse the insert - I've done it many a time. then fit a new olive and fit the insert - you need to hold the hose in special blocks (if you need a pair, PM and I'll send them to you, and may even pop in an olive for you) and push the insert in - I hold the blocks with pliers and use a small hammer for that - that is the most difficult part of the procedure. then push the hose in and do up the bolt. simples.

being that those are avid brakes, you should be able to skip the dremel, etc. and just unscrew the barb with a t10 torx wrench. sometimes avid uses other barbs in OE brakes, though...disc hose goes on the inside of fork leg, btw

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