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Thursday, October 11, 2012

Coat Collar Conundrum

Readers! Sewers-along! How's it going? I don't have a sewing post for today (tomorrow though!) but I did want to get your opinions on a design issue I'm having with my coat. When I tried on the partially constructed bodice (see above), I found I liked the look of the contrast collar. I started to worry that the collar in the lace/wool would be way too much muchness.

I gave it a test run.

It seems a little much, right? It's almost like the beauty of the fabric gets lost when there's too much of it.

I tried draping some black wool crepe on it.

Nice! What do you think?

And then, as an experiment, I tried ivory.

Nah. Not loving it.

And then I remembered this blog post by sew-along moderator Liz about vintage coat details. I loved this Lilli Ann jacket she included. (I am a HUGE Lilli Ann fan; just Google "Lilli Ann suit" and you'll see what I mean.)

Wouldn't it be cool to do some sort of contrast inset on the collar? I mocked it up with some bias silk ribbon.

I like how it curves around, getting wider at the shoulder. I could mimic this idea with an inset of black wool crepe (the same I used for the bound buttonholes). Bonus: I wouldn't have to scrap the facings I already cut from the lace.

I like the contrasting edge! It could also be beautiful if you did it in small little stripes, out of a millinery grosgrain, so it could make it around the curves- or do three small rows of the millinery grosgrain, like they have on little edwardian capelets! After all, the 40's and 50's was a re-visit to the turn of the century!

I really like the solid black collar the best. It adds depth to the piece and gives the eye a resting place. This makes the focus of the jacket the lovely lace. I feel the ribbon detail is nice but not sufficient enough in bulk, if the jacket's fabric was more uniform as in the Lilli Ann photo above the ribbon would be a good option.

Hi! My first choice is the lace collar with the black contrast trim. Then the lace only collar. The white didn't appeal to me, mostly because I'd be afraid to do anything in it lest I spill and stain it. Or even get lipstick on it. I'm clumsy and never wear white for that reason! But I really think the black edging is lovely.

While I liked all three, I would choose the black collar. It pops, it makes the lace stand out better, and on the plainer black I could wear one of my fancy vintage jeweled pins and it wouldn't 'get lost' in the lace. So with the black collar, I could have my lace and wear my pins too. :)

Black collar all the way! I agree with a previous commenter that it gives the eye a place to rest after gazing over yards and yards of such a beautiful, intricate pattern. Plus I think it will be a beautiful frame for your neck, face, and any jewelry, hair accessories or special makeup you happen to be wearing. I'm a fan of black (it goes with everything! Including black!) so when I saw the black collar version I instantly fell in love. That particular version seemed to be the most 'simple elegent' look in my mind. I'm am worried that once you get the full skirt bottom attached to the coat, the edging along the collar (the 3rd variation you offered) will just get lost in a sea of fabric....unless you trim the sleeves or pockets or find some other place to use the trim to pull it all together.I can't wait to see what you decide!

contrast edge just looks so right .full black a little heavy and sort of ready to wear ish.Ivory hmm the least practicle of all, lipstick and grime would spring to mind.Patricia - who has always admired white coat wearers on the London underground they either have a teflon coating or shares in a dry cleaning firm x

I like the contrast band the best - I feel like the solid collar hides the lace-y fabric too much. The little bit of solid around the edges highlights the shape of the collar AND lets the fabric speak for itself. It feels like whatever fabric you use on the collar will be the first thing you notice about the coat, so if you want the lace to stand out, use it there. It does lose some of its "punch" as just lace on lace, though. Good idea to mix it up!

I like the black contrast. It looks lovely. Whatever you decide please show the steps since I have the same fabric and I am enjoying the help. I'm still trying to get my muslin correct in between running my children from sport to spor!

Love the contrast. It showcases the collar's beautiful shape as well as the fabric. Plus, I think it will probably frame your face well. I am liking your design more and more as you progress in the project!

I like the contrast outer edge in black, especially if you can mimic the wider edge at the shoulders as in the Lilli Ann sample. This ties in with your bound buttonholes, right? Continuity is good. Second choice is the solid black (also ties in with your buttonholes). Nix on the cream...looks nice but would only work if buttonholes were also cream.

I think the black collar is a little too heavy~ the ribbon trim on the collar is perfect! it draws attention up and also nicely accents the lines of the collar/neckline and will frame your neck/face beautifully.

I like the White the best but I do like your contrast strip alot I think your initial 'too much of a muchness' will be an issue still. I think you should experimant with the width and colour of the contrast stripe.. in my opinion it needs to be wider than the suit you pictured to properly separate the collar and the coat itself other wise they kind of just blend to the eye because the lace is quite busy. I do love the white though!

My favourite is the ivory, but it is impractical (hello lipstick marks!). I have been returning to this page all night trying to decide which is the most appealing. In the end my vote is for the solid black, it makes the coat look very lush and expensive. I find the contrast with the pattern too busy.

As I was reading, I was thinking about a velvet edge, and then you said it too! The Lilli Ann idea is the way to go. Someday I dream of a coat like this with Persian lamb on collar (and matching hat!). Loving your work, this will be a spectacular coat.

Love , Love , love the contrast edge! So elegant! I just might borrow that idea for a jacket I have planned for spring... The all black is also beautiful, it somehow looks more luxorious than the white or the fashion fabric.

Definitely the contrast! I love the lace, want to take as much advantage as possible without it feeling too much or losing detail. This just sets the details and the fabric off so well. Great solution!

I have another option for you. I think the ivory is perfect, especially for your colouring and how it sets off the lace fabric. How about using the ivory with the black inset? You would then be tying in the bound buttonholes with the black and the ivory collar will look perfect!:)

Which ever option you choose will look beautiful on you. I just think the ivory will actually look more spectacular on you. :) Love your fabric choices.

Have you considered removable collars. That way you can have the lovely ivory and clean it when needed while wearing the one with edging or the black. I personally like the ivory best but it lacks practicality unless it can be removed for more frequent cleaning. They are all good choices.