There was a nice thread running through the references cited by Shane Gabier and Chris Peters for their latest Creatures of the Wind collection. The look and light of old Dutch master paintings led Shane Gabier to recall the turbulent skies of Antwerp, a place he once lived, which then got him and Peters thinking about those skies in terms of psychedelia. The psychedelia drew them forward into a contemplation of the original psychedelic moment in the late ’60s—a time, they pointed out after today’s show, at least as tumultuous as our own. You could read all these ideas on the runway, but it was the starting point, the Dutch paintings, that gave the collection its restrained tone. This was a natty collection, and for the most part a quiet one—a couple of Tyvek pieces in a bold psychedelic print notwithstanding.

Really, though, the key reference for Gabier and Peters this season was the upcycled fur they produced for Fall. An editorial favorite, the pieces also did surprisingly well at retail, which inspired the duo to introduce more upcycled garments this time around. There were vintage tees and sweats with new graphics printed over the old; better yet, there were slick leather trenches that had been stripped, re-dyed, and painted on to winning effect. These ought to repeat the commercial success of last season’s furs.