Sylvia Rector's Great Plates: Bone marrow at Bistro 82

April 6, 2014 | Detroit Free Press

Bone marrow still isn’t a dish you see everywhere, but neither is it really new. It began appearing locally on upscale restaurant menus at least a half-dozen years ago, about the time chefs began embracing charcuterie and nose-to-tail-cooking practices to try to use every part of an animal.

Marrow is the softer inner core of bone that becomes very rich and almost jellylike when roasted. To eat it, scoop up the marrow with a small spoon or knife and spread it on toasted bread.

One excellent place to try it is the stylish new Bistro 82 in Royal Oak, where sous chef Norman Fenton says it’s one of the top 10 sellers. To prepare the dish, executive chef Derik Watson dusts shank bones, split lengthwise, with flour and pan-sears them to create a crust on the cut surface. Then the bones are oven-roasted until the marrow softens and begins to break down. For service, the bones are dusted with fresh lemon zest, minced chives and a bit of sea salt and plated with a beautiful herb salad, fresh lemon wedge and house-made toasted garlic crostini. When you taste the marrow, you’ll understand why Watson calls it “meat butter.” Menu price: $11. (401 S. Lafayette; 248-542-0082 and www.bistro82.com)