Latest Pages on this site

Many people are surprised when I say that I think Riesling is the
best grape variety.

"Ah, it's too sweet," they say.

That's the key to why this white wine variety has lost its way. People
think it's sweet, therefore they don't like it. I think it tastes like
it's made from grapes so I like it.

In the days before varietal labelling 'Riesling' was a wine
style, rather than a variety. It was something not quite as
dry as a 'chablis' but certainly not as sweet as a 'moselle' or a 'sauternes'.

In the 1960s and 1970s when we were drinking "riesling" the
wines may have has some riesling grapes in them, but I'm sure that many
had less revered varieties in them, such as colombard or Thompson's
Seedless. (sultanas)

While we Aussies were busy degrading the name of this wonderful variety
the German wine companies were helping to blacken the name with mass-produced
and mass marketed sweet wines in Europe and Britain. So the decline
of Riesling was a global problem.

Wine in a fashion industry but years after these events the legacy
of the bad reputation lives on.

Over the past decade or so there has been a drift back to Riesling
in Australia, lead by the iconic regions of Clare
Valley and Eden Valley. The prices of Riesling
wines from these regions have been steadily increasing, but they are
still extremely cheap, compared to most other varieties.

Where are the bargains?

Wineries in most wine regions, other than the warmer inland regions
produce excellent Riesling, and it is rarely the most expensive wine
in the range. The Adelaide Hills is a less heralded
region for Riesling but you will find some good ones there.

Many Victorian regions produce excellent wines from this variety, but
in most regions demand for the ubiquitous Chardonnay forces it into
the background. Critics like the wine produced in the Henty
region (around Portland and Crawford River) if you like to spend more
than $20 per bottle you will find some from this region. However you
can get excellent wines for little more than half that money from regions
such as the Alpine Valleys, King Valley
(especially from the higher vineyards) Upper Goulburn,
Strathbogie Ranges, Macedon Ranges,
Geelong and Grampians regions.

In New South Wales your best bet is to try some varietal Riesling from
the emerging cooler regions, for example Hilltops,
Canberra District or Orange.

In WA you should head down to the Great Southern sub-regions such as
Frankland River, Mount Barker or Porongurup.

A question of age

Like most white wine varieties Riesling improves with age. I like mine
in the 8-15 year range of aging. These are serious wines, but very few
are available. You need to be patient, but let me assure you the rewards
are well worth the wait.

Discussion about this wonderful variety is hampered
by confusion about what "riesling" is.

Before varietal labeling Riesling used to refer to a style
rather than a variety - it just meant an off dry white wine. This
usage persisted, especially in cask wines well into the 1990s.

Clare Riesling was the name wrongly ascribed to the Crouchen
variety. It is rarely found now, except in Brown Brothers extraordinarily
popular Crouchen & Riesling.

Hunter Riesling was the name given to Semillon in the Hunter
region. Although these wines were misnamed they were exceptionally
good, especially when aged.

Rhine Riesling was used to describe varietal Riesling wines
to distinguish them from the style.

Traminer-Reisling refers to a blends with gewurztraminer,
a popular combination in warmer Australian regions.

Some Award Winning Rieslings

The Canberra Riesling
Challenge has been held since 2000. At the latest challenge in
2007 the award of the best Riesling in the world went to Weingut
Juliusspital Iphofer Julius-Echterberg Riesling Beerenauslese 2006.
The best Australian was Orlando Wines St Helga Eden Valley
Riesling 2002.