Chennai Restaurant Review

: An extensive vegetarian menu helps distinguish this Upper East Side restaurant from the city’s many cookie-cutter Indian establishments. Along with meatier options, Chennai offers treats like chickpeas and lentils several ways --- in a cold salad tossed with onions, tomatoes, cilantro and chat masala --- or Jaipur-style with many spices. Shrimp ajwain from the tandoori oven is tender and mildly spiced with anise seeds, pairing well with a side of raita. Service is low-key; ask for recommendations, and don’t miss the house-made desserts such as kulfi mango, an ice cream-like concoction with a rich fruity taste.