Thursday, August 25, 2016

The Pad's been quiet for the past year. About three months ago, I started putting together a blog post about the female co-stars Hollywood pairs Leonardo DiCaprio with versus the females with which HE pairs himself. I gave myself a chuckle, but it became tedious assembling all of the blonde swimsuit models together so I gave up. I've basically been spending every single free moment of my time in the ocean scraping together surf sessions here and there. I've been compiling inspiring surf videos, clips, and articles, and surfing has become my new culture. Since I'm so new to everything, the world is wide open to me! (It drives my husband nuts whenever I refer to myself as a kook, because it's too close to the term gook.)

In the past year, I have gotten better at catching waves. I know it will be another year or two before I am any good though. Just when I get comfy making bigger, faster drops, the ocean will hand me bumps for the next month or so. I've been riding an 8' (which replaced my shattered 8'6") and a 7'6". Paddling is so much harder on a smaller board. I do not know how short boarders get themselves around.

I now have Cameron Diaz arms from paddling. They alarm me when I catch glimpses of them in a reflection. My thighs keep holding on, though. They could still provide a meaty meal for a finned friend, or keep me alive for a while if I were stranded on an island. My hair has become fried from the sun and saltwater into a brown, frizzy mass. My face resembles a brown leather sofa. A year ago, I had no wrinkles. Now when I smile I have lines of crows feet. A cute surfer gal, I am not. I resent the wrinkles, because I never fail to paddle out without a face covered in white zinc looking like a cross between an Asian ghost and kabuki performer.

A few older surfers have told me I remind them of Hawaiian surfer, Rell Sunn. I think it's because I hunch my back when I drop in. Regardless, Rell was an amazing surfer, a pioneer for pro-women, and she was drop-dead gorgeous. THANK YOU friendly surfers for telling me that!

Being in the water, whether it's 50 or 70 degrees, foggy, under glaring sun, flat light, in a crowd, or completely alone, is such a gift. Catching waves is pure bliss. I want to keep progressing and keep learning. Everyone impresses and inspires me no matter their skill level or what they ride. If they're stoked, I'm stoked. Speaking of, I've developed a crush on a guy who's been surfing for 40 years. He's laid back and has such flow. He's also a nice person, who, if I tell him I'm going to San Onofre will ask me how my session was the next time he sees me. Sometimes I watch him drop in on steep ones and say, "Oh my god, oh my god!" to myself. I don't know if it's the sunlight or stoke that makes surfers' eyes so blue at the beach, but his eyes sparkle extra brightly. I used to purposely paddle away from him, but now I'm willing to catch waves in front of him. GET IT, GIRL.

I'm permanently drawing the blinds on The Pad and am headed to the beach, now. The ocean calls.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

I read Esquire's interview with Miles Teller (the 28 year-old actor with the odd face who stars in the new Fantastic Four movie). I have never seen him act before. Based solely on the impression left from his interview, Teller is a loud-mouthed, pompous, overly self-entitled guy. In a way he reminds me of Kanye West. I did take offense to one part of the interview, but it had nothing to do with Teller. At one point the East Coast native goes into a story saying, "I used to get this milk tea in college at the Asian market M2M when I was high." The interviewer thinks to herself, 'as if you're supposed to know what milk tea is.'

In the year 2015 it is not unreasonable for someone to know what milk tea is. I looked online and Atlanta (where the interview occurs) lists over 50 places that sell bubble tea, so get with it Anna Peele! Sheezus, make some Asian friends.

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Long story short: I bought these adhesive posties from a Japanese bookstore for a colleague who was celebrating her birthday. I tucked them inside a birthday card with a photo of deliciously iced donuts on the front. It was perfect, until I realized she didn't work on Thursdays when I delivered it to her. So I kept the posties and the card. The posties cost ^%$@*! $9, but the good news is they really spruce up otherwise boring paperwork.

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Congratulations and おめでとうございます to Hiroto Ohhara for winning the 2015 Vans US Open of Surfing Men's title on Sunday in Huntington Beach! It was a nailbiter to watch Ohhara (a native of Chiba, Japan) go for it against determined competitor Tanner Hendrickson.

Stab Magazine posted a clip on Hiroto's Vans experience and what the 18 year-old surfer plans to do with his winnings. It starts with Hiroto speaking Japanese to HB local/fellow competitor, Kanoa Igarashi. Kanoa translates. While it felt bittersweet to watch Hiroto conquer Kanoa in the Men's semi-finals, Hiroto charged every wave and truly embraced every opportunity to shine.

The New York Timesinterviewed four women who live with alopecia who are meeting one another for the first time. They talk about their femininity and self-identities in a world in which many associate a woman's beauty with her hair.

Monday, August 3, 2015

If I had won the $110 million Powerball last week, I'd likely be at the realtor's office making an offer on this 2100 square foot casual home on Newport Peninsula. The home, built from studs up in 2007 (though the listing says 1946), features 3 bedrooms and 3.5 bathrooms (2 full and 1 partial). It's got two parking spots, forced heating, a Viking range, subzero fridge, and a fireplace. I'm assuming it has an indoor washer and dryer. I'm big on those. When I viewed the listing this morning I'm fairly certain it had no flag or outdoor hot tub but it does now! The patio boats an outdoor shower, perfect for when you return home from the beach with your salty gear.

I'm a little hesitant to plunk down the asking price of $2,495,000 for a property that has no ocean view or seaside access, though this house is walking distance to Jetty View Park and The Wedge. You'd be near the water on a quiet street without having droves of tourists passing by your front windows.

If I lived here I'd paint the front door (on both sides) a bold red, green, or blue. I love colorful dutch doors.

I'd consider making the fireplace gas. Is that lame?

For over $2 million, the kitchen seems small, but I'm not a chef and don't need a cavernous space. If there's room, I'd install an island.

I'd turn this desk space into a closet.

I wish they showed the other bathrooms, too.

I'd use the master suite as a family room with a huge plus couch and TV, and would sleep in one of the other bedrooms. The raised ceilings are wasted on closed eyes. How much time do people really spend in their master suites, anyway? Why do they have to be so big?

The narrow back patio could use a professional's help. (We have a hot tub at our apartment complex. My husband talked about using it for months, but when we finally did he couldn't sit in it for more than a minute. He looked like a boiling potato. He's the kind of guy who gets crazy when the shower is too hot, so I don't know what he was thinking.) Out back I'd lay artificial grass and put out a variety of potted trees and succulents. Our surfboards and wetsuit drying rack would go where the hot tub is located. I'd drape strings of outdoor bulbs so it's pretty at night and would set up a hammock for relaxing in privacy. Summer is almost over. I want to spend my last days of freedom and bliss in this house!

I was sitting on my board in still waters. I looked down to see clumps of dark seaweed through the gray water. With slight panic I wondered, 'Is that a stingray?' When with quiet grace you came floating by along the ocean floor, first your dish plate body and then your thin tail. After my pause of awe, I began to slap the water trying to get you to scoot away. That was rude of me. You were just chilling, enjoying your Sunday morning. The ocean is your home and I am but a guest. I've probably got another sting coming my way.

Monday, July 27, 2015

I love searching for pretty and interesting shells in the sand. I think all of my seashells are from beaches in Orange County. My prize finds include a tiny sand dollar (I had a bigger one but accidentally smashed it while carrying it with my surfboard), some purple barnacles, and two tiny horns.

I keep telling myself I have enough shells, but they're hard to resist when glistening like tiny sculptural treasures in the sand.

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Cary Joji Fukunaga, famed director of True Detective Season 1 (How did the world not explode when Woody from Cheers and Matthew from Dazed & Confused signed to be on the same series?), Jane Eyre (dark, engrossing, and well acted), and Sin Nombre (also pretty good) is the man in specs. So abundant are photos of him in glasses, what started as a fun blog post quickly became exhausting to assemble.

Fukunaga's vintage frames are my favorite. They tell me he can run a major newspaper and grease a chassis.

The glasses above and below work with a hoodie or a tux (or a bun or braids). Fukunaga was wearing them when he became a sensation during the 2014 Emmy Awards.