The
12-centuries-old city of Fez is known as Morocco's spiritual capital, but it
also has huge relevance for millions of West Africans.

They
come in droves - from Senegal, Mali, Niger and Nigeria - to worship at the
tomb of a North African holy man, Sheikh Ahmed Tijani.

Senegalese men in flowing twilight blue Boubous mingle with Moroccans in
hooded Djellabas at the impressive gate of the Zaouia, or religious centre
for the Tijani brotherhood, in the narrow and winding streets of Fez's old
town.

Sheikh
Tijani, who was born in Ain Madhi in what is now Algeria, is reputed to have
learnt the Koran by heart by the age of seven, and given his first fatwa (religious
instruction) at 15.

He
founded the Sufi brotherhood at the end of the 18th Century - using the
Gregorian calendar - or towards the start of the 13th Islamic century.

Muslims flocked to hear the teachings of the holy man, who had spent long
periods meditating in the Sahara Desert.

The
Moroccan sultan of the time, Moulay Slimane, supported Sheikh Tijani, aiding
his rise.

All
sorts

Tijani
disciples from neighbouring countries spread the word and now there are
millions of his followers in West Africa.

Zoubir Tijani says the shrine attracts more than 12 nationalities

"I
have visited many African countries, and there are villages and towns where
you don't expect to find even a sign of civilisation, but you find a Koranic
school and other buildings put up by the Tijanis," says Zoubir Tijani, a
descendent of Sheikh Tijani, who looks after his mausoleum.

"Secondly,
our brotherhood sticks very closely to the Koran.

"Sheikh Tijani said if you hear me say something which contradicts what the
prophet says, you must ignore it.

"This
message appeals to people, so if you go into the Zaouia now you will find
more than 12 nationalities.

"In
this brotherhood you find all sorts - ordinary people and ministers."

The
former Senegalese Prime Minister, Moustapha Niasse, comes from a famous
Tijani family, and Hissen Habre, the former dictator of Chad, is a Tijani.

Zoubir
Tijani brushed away suggestions that Mr Habre, who is accused of numerous
human rights abuses, had clearly found it difficult to follow the Tijani
message of peace.

Senegalese community

Tijanis, both well known and anonymous, come to Fez to pray at Sheikh
Tijani's tomb, often on their way to Mecca, explains Abdellatif Begdouri
Achkari, a Tijani, and a senior member of Morocco's Islamic affairs ministry.

Abdellatif Begdouri Achkari says the links are spiritual, not
political

"Islam
came to West Africa from Morocco, so it's normal there is such a strong
spiritual relationship," he said.

"Sheikh Ahmed Tijani is a great figure in Morocco, and the links we have
with people from other countries are not political, they are spiritual."

Round
the corner from the Zaouia, Sheikh Tijani's last resting place, a small
community of Senegalese people live.

Samba
Thiam moved here nine years ago, thanks to his faith.

He
rents a room in a traditional two-storey Fez house, and helps other Tijanis
who come to pray at the grave of the Sheikh.

"I
came here because of the Zaouia of Sheikh Tijani," he says in halting French
mixed with words of Wolof and exuberant English.

"I live here near the Zaouia to welcome and
help the disciples. They come from all countries in the world, and there are
lots of them - sometimes we have as many as 30 in a week."

'Big
advantage'

Later he and
other Senegalese, two of whom have come from France, sit down for lunch
in the Senegalese style, using their hands to eat from a common dish.

Moroccans
respect us because we are disciples of Sheikh Tijani

Habib Diallo, Senegalese student

Many of these
pilgrims contribute to the upkeep of the Zaouia.

"Disciples of the
Tijani brotherhood provide everything that is necessary here - they pay for
water and electricity, carpets, everything that is needed," explains Zoubir
Tijani.

"They aren't obliged
to, but they do it to make everyone feel at ease."

Habib Diallo, a
Senegalese student in Fez, is a regular visitor to the Zaouia.

He and other
Senegalese meet on Thursday evenings to chant Allah's name, to prepare
themselves for the Friday prayer.

He says the fact so
many Senegalese are Tijanis has contributed to the close relationship his
country has with Morocco.

"The Moroccans
respect us because we are disciples of Sheikh Ahmed Tijani," he says. "It's
a very big advantage.

"Everyone knows
there is a very nice relationship between Senegal and Morocco, and Sheikh
Ahmed Tijani is at the centre of that."