Category Archives: Exterior Painting

1. Wash you’re siding with an inexpensive hose- mounted brush, such as a car-washing brush. Work from the top of the wall to the bottom. Use household detergent on tough spots and rinse all soapy areas thoroughly.

2. Scrape away peeling paint with a paint scraper. Don’t gouge the wood, and be sure to change (or sharpen) the scraper blade frequently to make the work go faster.

3. Use 100-grit sandpaper over a sanding block to smooth the scraped areas. Feather the edges so they match the surrounding surface.

4. Use a flap sander mounted in an electric l (or a cordless drill for very quick jobs) to remove peeling paint from curved surfaces. This tool works on both concave and convex boards.

5. On larger scraped areas, use an electric sander to smooth the surface. U e 100-grit sandpaper and be sure to brush the sanding dust off he siding or trim when you’re done.

6. Fill any cracks between the siding and the door and window trim using a caulk gun and paintable, exterior caulk. Fill deep cracks in a couple of passes to keep the caulk from smearing on the siding.

7. Prime and then paint all sanded areas. And, try not to over-brush. Because paint tends to fade over time, your touch-ups will look brighter than the original paint covering. Keeping their size as small as possible will make them less noticeable.

8. Try to remove any paint splatters from window glass before they dry. Once the paint hardens ifs much harder to remove.

First thing to do is to survey of all the surfaces. After doing this, you will be able to determine what you will need.
Surface marks
All the marks will have to be sanded off. Use 80 grit sandpaper. You will need to feather you’re sanding around the mark somewhat because if you sand in one spot, there will be a lighter difference on that spot Use 100 – 120 grit sandpaper.
Rough Areas
To describe rough, I refer to where a route or saw have not completely removed the wood it was suppose to remove. Also where the pieces meet or connect together such as corners and other joints.

Step 2 Priming:

There are several methods to applying primer. I usually just brush primer. I am not saying that it is the best way to do it, but that is the way I do it. I prefer to prime before the wood is installed. This makes the process of staining much faster. To do this type of application, layout the wood across two saw horses with a drop sheet below to keep the mess to a minimum. Next mix the primer thoroughly from bottom to top. Proceed by dipping the brush into the primer about one inch up the bristles. Wipe the brush off as you pull the can out of the primer. This should leave enough primer in the brush to start. Place the brush about five inches away from the end of the piece of wood and drag it toward the opposite end. When the brush begins to show signs of being almost empty stop and drag the brush back past where you started. Right past the end. Again reload the brush and start about five inches from where you had to turn back the previous stroke. Repeat until the piece is completed. Once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use. .

Install Wood with one coat of stain and one coat of sealer if possible

Step 3 Wood Preparation:

First thing you can do after the wood has been installed is being sure to inset all the nails with a nail punch. The nails should be inset by about 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Start to fill the nail holes with color matched putty. The putty can also be used to fill small joints that are not more the 1/16 of an inch in width. Joints that are larger will need to be profiled with wood cement or wood filler. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. After all this has been completed, you can wipe each piece to remove any excess putty and dust with varsol or mineral spirits.

Step 4 First Finish Coat:
Apply the coat of your choice of finish whether it be latex / varethane / urathane. Be sure to spread the finish out as much as you can by striking back and forth. After three or four feet, drag your brush back over quickly where you had just finished having a continuous follows through stroke. Nothing looks worse then a lot of brush marks. Let dry. Different products take shorter or longer periods of time to dry. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Step 5 Wood Preparation:

Now just a light sanding with 120 grit or finer. You just want to take off any roughness of the finish. You do not want to remove the finish! Wipe clean varsol or mineral spirits to remove the dust.

Step 6 Second Finish Coat:
Apply the second coat the same as the first coat. And you are finished. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Preparation is especially important when the surface to be painted is a concrete floor, such as in a laundry room or workshop. First you will want to repair any cracks or holes. You will next need to prepare the concrete with a muriatic acid solution. This process is called “etching.” It’s similar to etching glass— scraping off a bit of the top so that the paint has something to adhere to. Caution: muriatic acid is strong enough to burn skin and eyes. Before you begin the etching process, put on the proper safety gear. If you can’t ventilate the work area, wear a dual-cartridge respirator.

How to prepare and paint a concrete floor:

1. First, sweep and scrape off the dirt from the floor. Clean off any grease, oil, and other contaminants using a cleaning solution.

2. Rinse the floor well to remove all traces of the cleaning solution.

3. Mix the solution to etch the floor by adding 1 part muriatic acid to 3 parts water. Do it in this order—do NOT add the water to the acid.

4. Apply the solution, using 1 gallon per 100 square feet, and scrub the floor with a stiff-bristled brush. Leave the solution on the floor until it stops bubbling.

5. Rinse the floor thoroughly with clean water. Wipe it down with a damp sponge mop to eliminate puddles.

6. If the floor isn’t dry in four hours, repeat the rinsing procedure.

7. After the floor is completely dry vacuum it to remove any powder residue left by the muriatic acid solution.

8. You can now paint the floor with an alkyd or urethane latex floor and deck enamel. It is best to paint with a roller and long pole. First paint the edges then work from the wall farthest from the door back toward the door.

4. Remove excess paint from roller cover by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray or bucket grid.

5. Starting in an upper corner of the wall, place the loaded roller cover approximately 3-4″ away from the cut in area.

6. Working in a 3′ X 3′ area, roll a “W” onto the wall.

7. Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom. Roll into the cut in area.

8. Reload as necessary.

9. Continue applying, starting with the “W” technique 3-4″ away from the last section applied. Working from the top down being careful to back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section applied.

Home owners today knows that choosing a color for their home is one of the most important and perhaps the most difficult task that they go through. In the past, everything was simple where white was the most used and also the most preferred paint color for the exterior walls of the house.

However, in today’s world, there are different color schemes that can enhance the look of your home.By choosing the right paint, you will be able to make your home stand out from the rest of the home in your area. It will also be easier to identify by your visiting friends and relatives. However, choosing the wrong color can also make your home stand out from the rest as the home with the worst paint job in the neighborhood.

This is why you should choose a paint color that will suit your home best and a color that will enhance the look of your home.

It is a fact that living in a home where there is no paint at all can be quite boring. This is why many people paint their home’s exterior to enhance its looks and also for their home to look more inviting. However, there are instances where you have to choose the proper color of your home. Firstly, it will depend on the climate of the area where your home is situated.

So, here are the basic tips and guidelines when choosing a paint color for the exterior of your home:

Lighting – You have to know that light has a significant effect on the house’s color. In cooler climates, the light is diffused. This means that colors will look bolder. However, in lighter climates and areas where there is a lot of sunshine, it will make the color look pale and washed out.

Light Colors vs. Dark Colors – Always remember that dark colors tend to make the house recede. This means that it will make the home look smaller and farther from the street. It will also make it gloomier. On the other hand, light colors have the opposite effect. It will make the home look larger and closer to the street. Also, it will brighten the home and will look more inviting.

Gutters and Downspouts – In most homes, gutters and downspouts are an eyesore. If you want it to make it less noticeable, you can consider painting it with the same wall colors of your exterior walls.

Mildews and Molds – Molds and mildews can be a hassle when painting the exterior of your home. It is important that you should solve this problem first before you apply paint. You can test for the presence of mildew by applying household bleach to the area suspected and if the bleach change colors, then you have a mildew problem.

Moisture – Moisture too can pose as a problem when painting your home. Even the best paint job can be ruined by moisture. Make sure that moisture is eliminated before you start painting. No matter how much coat you cover the problematic area you will see that the moisture will still be noticeable.

Color Families – If you are having difficulties in choosing what color you should paint your home, then you should consider purchasing from a paint manufacturer that offers color families. This simplifies your color choosing a lot more.

It is important to remember that the paint you choose should be made and formulated for exterior use. The paint you use should withstand heat and water for a long time in order for the paint’s color last a long time.

By following these simple tips, you will be able to have a home that is pleasing to look at and a home that is more inviting.

A wooden picnic table right at your garden is a fun dining venue on weekends. However, wooden picnic tables are exposed to outdoor elements most of the year and needs extra protection. One way to protect your wooden picnic table from outdoor elements is to apply finishing. Here are the materials that you will need along with the instructions on how to finish a wooden picnic table.

Tools and Materials Needed:

• Paint brushes
• Sanding sealant
• Sandpaper
• Wood stain

Step 1 – Sandpaper

Smooth the surface of the picnic table using fine sandpaper. Start at the table top and sand in a circular motion until your get a relatively smooth and even surface.

Step 2 – Apply Sanding Sealant

With a paint brush, apply a sanding sealant on the surface of your picnic table and dry for 30 minutes. Sand the picnic table again using the procedure in Step 1.

Step 3 – Apply Wood Stain

After sanding, apply a coating of wood stain on the picnic table using a fresh paint brush. For a lighter wood stain apply only 1 or 2 coats of wood stain. For a darker wood stain apply additional coating until you are satisfied with the hue of the stain. Make sure to allow enough drying time between each coating of wood stain.

Step 4 – Remove Excess Stain

Check your picnic table for excess stain and remove any by sanding. Excess stain often accumulates at the end pieces and corners of your picnic table.

Step 5 – Finish

Apply polyurethane finish on your picnic table using another fresh paint brush. Apply 2 or more coatings to protect your picnic table from outdoor elements such as rain or direct exposure to sunlight.