You'll probably find yourself quite happy with an automatic. If you do switch to manual, better look into a Tremec 6spd(T6060 or similar) so you won't have to keep rebuilding the manual and you'll maintain higher economy than a 5spd.

351W is the only way to go if high power is an end goal. Once you get that block, consider forged internals for the rotating assembly and a set of high flowing heads. A well built 351(stroker) can offer over 600hp N/A and getting that from a 302 will at very least, require an R block.

An 8.8 traction lock out of a 79-93 will probably serve your purposes and they are quite a bit lighter than the 9".

Not to mention less expensive, but there must be a 9" out there already made to bolt right into his car and he'd probably have to remove and replace the perches of any 8.8, which can be a hassle. He'd also have to cut the ends off and set up the bearings like a 9" with C-clip eliminators if he's going to drag race the car(if it's going to be quick). I've done this myself and kept costs down vs a 9," but not without hassle/work.

Going to the 9" is fine, but don't just think any old 9 will do. You're going to snap axles if you don't get the right ones, for example. Find(buy) 31 spline stuff.

Not to mention less expensive, but there must be a 9" out there already made to bolt right into his car and he'd probably have to remove and replace the perches of any 8.8, which can be a hassle. He'd also have to cut the ends off and set up the bearings like a 9" with C-clip eliminators if he's going to drag race the car(if it's going to be quick). I've done this myself and kept costs down vs a 9," but not without hassle/work.

Going to the 9" is fine, but don't just think any old 9 will do. You're going to snap axles if you don't get the right ones, for example. Find(buy) 31 spline stuff.

There are 9" and 8.8" rear ends both made to bolt in, but you are talking a lot of money for those pre-fabbed units.
Plus most 9" rearends other than those specially fabricated for the car are going to be too wide to work and will require housing and axle shortening, perch relocation, etc., etc..

The 79-93 8.8 should come real close to being a workable width, but he'd have to measure to be sure.
It's relatively easy and inexpensive to cut off the newer style control arm mounts and weld on some spring perches.
The stock C-Clip axles will hold up fine unless he starts launching hard with slicks on the car.

He can either install the C-Clip eliminators, or cut off the housing ends and replace those and the bearings with the 9" style if he needs to. He won't need to do both.

My 86 GT has the 8.8 rearend, the engine in the car puts out 405 HP and roughly 380 ft lbs of TQ at the crank. The axles are stock C-Clip 28 spline axles and they have held up for over 10 years and countless launches on drag radials and street tires. I think he will be fine using the 8.8 unless he plans on high RPM launches on slicks like I said before.

He said right off, "high power" and to me, that means over 500rwhp, so I took for granted he'd need something serious. The 8.8 can be built to do the job. I used an 8.8" with my 408W build and it never had an issue. I did switch to outer bearings, etc. though, because the rules required C-clip eliminators.

Now that I'm thinking about it, maybe he should look into a 1977-81 Lincoln Versailles or 66-77 Bronco... That one might just bolt right in, but he would need to re-route brake lines. It's like 3/4" wider than the original Mustang width.

The only C-clip eliminator kits I'm familiar with require cutting the axle tubes and installing 9" style bearings. Not to say there aren't others, but he's looking for performance stuff.

Yup... Those either require bearings, or include them(top photo). That's the only style I've ever seen. They also require cutting off the ends of an 8.8"(or 7.5) axle tubes. You're either cutting or welding or both. My welding may have just been the inside end of the axle tubes.

Ha I don't think I'll be getting over 500rwhp anytime soon. I'll be dropping pretty much stock 351w in maybe some aluminum heads and oversized pistons. I won't do upgrades until I get subframe connectors and some other body stiffeners and supination upgrades

Yup... Those either require bearings, or include them(top photo). That's the only style I've ever seen. They also require cutting off the ends of an 8.8"(or 7.5) axle tubes. You're either cutting or welding or both. My welding may have just been the inside end of the axle tubes.

The top ones just bolt to the existing housing ends and the bearings are included. There is no welding required with them.

The bottom housing ends are really a better way to go, but they require more work, welding and more parts. I intend to use those and shorten my existing housing by 1" on each side for better wheel fitment.

Ha I don't think I'll be getting over 500rwhp anytime soon. I'll be dropping pretty much stock 351w in maybe some aluminum heads and oversized pistons. I won't do upgrades until I get subframe connectors and some other body stiffeners and suspension upgrades

You may just throw nitrous at it... Decently built, with a 150 shot... over 500rwhp just like that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

The top ones just bolt to the existing housing ends and the bearings are included. There is no welding required with them.

It requires cutting the axle tubes. It's not a big issue, but could turn into one in about a nano-second.

Quote:

The bottom housing ends are really a better way to go, but they require more work, welding and more parts. I intend to use those and shorten my existing housing by 1" on each side for better wheel fitment.

Some think they're better, but most don't have any trouble from the older, easier style. I'd go with the 9" style because in the end, it's less expensive. You get the kit and get the bearings pressed onto the axles and you're nearly done. Just cut the tubes, clean up and put it together. With the other style, you're welding for sure. Then you've gotta source bearings and seals(or sealed bearings). Gets time consuming and expensive.

You may just throw nitrous at it... Decently built, with a 150 shot... over 500rwhp just like that.

It requires cutting the axle tubes. It's not a big issue, but could turn into one in about a nano-second.

Some think they're better, but most don't have any trouble from the older, easier style. I'd go with the 9" style because in the end, it's less expensive. You get the kit and get the bearings pressed onto the axles and you're nearly done. Just cut the tubes, clean up and put it together. With the other style, you're welding for sure. Then you've gotta source bearings and seals(or sealed bearings). Gets time consuming and expensive.

OK, I'll admit I'm having a hard time understanding what you are saying.

You seem (to me) to be saying that the top, first picture I posted of C-Clip Eliminators, require cutting and welding the axle tubes. Right?
They do not require you to cut the axle tubes. They bolt directly to the existing housing ends.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strange Engineering

Safety hubs (C-Clip Eliminators), which were originated by Strange Engineering, are required by drag racing rules for good reason. C-clip type axles are retained by a clip above the spline portion of the axles. When the stock axle or differential breaks, the entire axle/brake/wheel assembly can slide completely out of the housing. Strange's safety hubs eliminate wheel loss and worn bearing areas. The bearings are retained and the axles are held securely in place by the safety hubs, which are bolted to the stock axle housing through the existing backing plate holes.

The second, bottom picture is of a 9" style housing end. They do require cutting off the existing housing ends and welding the new ones in place, then you add seals, bearings and retainer plates for 9" style axle retaining.

Just go to the local junkyard and pick up a Lincoln versaille. Also the older rancheros had a 9 that'll fit, that's what I have under mine and it already has a handy bottom drain plug. Mine is out of a 59.

Just go to the local junkyard and pick up a Lincoln versaille. Also the older rancheros had a 9 that'll fit, that's what I have under mine and it already has a handy bottom drain plug. Mine is out of a 59.

You know what I was just under there last week or so getting measurements for rim offsets and tub measurements and I took it and I have it written down somewhere, I'll have to find it. But yea, currie uses the older style housings now to. I might have this one trusted up a little because the center housing is almost round, so it doesn't tapper down for added strength. I bought rims meant for classic stangs and it put me perfectly lined up with the inside of the fender. Couldn't be more than an inch longer overall

OK, I'll admit I'm having a hard time understanding what you are saying.

You seem (to me) to be saying that the top, first picture I posted of C-Clip Eliminators, require cutting and welding the axle tubes. Right?
They do not require you to cut the axle tubes. They bolt directly to the existing housing ends.

I'm saying they do require cutting because they do. Not necessarily what some would call the tube, though it is the end. I know this because I installed P/N 9300 on a car myself and it is "Step 3" of the rear end housing preparation, according to the instructions with the kit.

I'm saying they do require cutting because they do. Not necessarily what some would call the tube, though it is the end. I know this because I installed P/N 9300 on a car myself and it is "Step 3" of the rear end housing preparation, according to the instructions with the kit.

Oh ok, I see now that you need to make a cut to trim off the end of the snout.
I hadn't ever seen that before and was told that they were a bolt on by Greg several years ago. Evidently that has changed. My bad.

The job is "scary" but anyone with a remotely steady hand can probably do it. I don't recommend a hacksaw. Instead, I used a reciprocating saw. Much quicker and less painful! My 1st cut was off a little, but the assembly fit. We(my brother, the rear end/manual transmission builder in the family) were concerned about leaking, but it was apparently straight enough to get a good seal. He was nice enough to set the lash in my gears.

Btw, you'd asked about the width of the original stuff. That 8" and any 9" Ford put into the 1st Mustangs would be 57.25" wide as I remember. I have a 66 sitting under a carport(my dads car), but I'm too lazy to measure again. As I recall, the 57-59 Ranchero wagon is the same width, but the spring perches are in a different location. The 67-70 Mustang is 2" wider, at 59.25" and finally, the Granada/Versailles and 66-77 Bronco(I mentioned earlier) is 58" with 1 note in mind. I've also read that the Versailles is 58.5" so... I have a customer using that in his hotrod. If I see him again soon, I'll ask.

Sorry for the hijack, btw. I should've started a thread on this topic by itself.