A local institution, this trattoria is authentic, with a menu of traditional Roman dishes, a spartan interior and no-frills service. If you can find a seat at a pavement table, keep it simple with cacio e pepe (pasta with Pecorino Romano and pepper) and pollo alla cacciatora, ‘hunter’s chicken’ (trattoriacacioepepeprati. com; Via Giuseppe Avezzana, 11; closed Sat dinner & Sun; two courses with wine around £18).