Not that I know of. There are "rack mount" crossovers though, which go "before" the amp (in other words, you'll need two amps to run with one of these, or a stereo amp will work too, anything with at least two channels or two separate amps will be fine). There are also passive crossovers about the size of a shoebox that will handle a thousand watts. I have one of those, I just set it on the floor next to the big 18. Works great.

i was reading the thread in the amps sections and I got to thinkingthat I'll be ordering a 210/115 set up from avatar friday(with a Traynor YBA200 amp which should be here monday) and I'm starting to worry about with an amp with as much lowend as the YBA200 that the 210 will fart out...

The two-way passive crossover typically consists of a coil and a capacitor. The coil prevents high frequencies from going to the woofer, and the capacitor prevents low frequencies from going to the tweeter. Passive crossovers are very common in home stereo speakers, which typically only have to handle a hundred watts or less (a hundred watts a channel is a pretty loud stereo). The difficulty in using these for bass playing purposes is that we bassmen typically use ten times as much power. So, the parts have to be "big", they have to be able to handle relatively higher voltages and dissipate relatively more power. In mine, there's a mondo coil that's wound with 14 gauge wire, and two big electrolytic capacitors rated at 300 volts each. It's set up for an 8 ohm input, and two 8 ohm outputs. The box itself was originally used by an audio engineering company for testing arena-type speaker systems. I got it at a surplus store, and modified it "slightly" for bass playing purposes.

You can get thousand-watt crossovers from commercial manufacturers, but it's a whole lot more cost effective to build one yourself. That's very easy to do. First you calculate the electrical properties that you need (inductance and capacitance), using the standard crossover formulas that you can find anywhere on the web. The capacitors you can buy "anywhere", like mouser.com or alliedelec.com. The coil you can wind yourself, all you have to do is get a spool of thick wire and form the coil (you can do that without a bobbin or center, an air core is probably preferable for high power operation). You can calculate the number of turns needed, and the approximate diameter of the coil, using the inductances formulas in a college physics textbook (again, you can also find these out on the web). On the web, there's a ton of information that's mostly application-specific, so for instance they'll talk about crossovers for your car stereo, or crossovers for your home stereo, that kind of thing. But the principles (and equations) are all the same.

For instance, here's a link to a pretty good synopsis of basic passive crossover operation:

There are all kinds of fancy ways to design a passive crossover, depending on the frequencies involved, the power, and whether you want steep slopes or not (the "simple" method I suggested will give you gradual slopes, like 3dB per octave, or 6 dB per octave for a second order design, but you can build 'em with 24 dB per octave if that kind of thing is important to you). The steeper the slope, the more "abrupt" will be the crossover transition between the two speakers. To my ear, for bass playing purposes, gradual roll-off sounds better than steep slopes. But, that's my ear, and your ear may be different. It might be a good idea to go to one of your local home audio or car audio shops (they typically have lots of passive speakers with built-in crossovers of various types), and listen for a while, to give you ear the opportunity to hear the difference between a steep slope and a gradual one.