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Saturday, February 5, 2011

Let the Good Times Roll

day 60:

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On Wenesday I hung around some small town in the middle of nowhere. There was the canal and I was waiting by it since it was a good place to wait. I was using my computer, nerd stuff, but I left it for a moment and when I came back it was ruined, as though somebody had stepped on it.I walked along the canal for a while and then laid in the grass on its bank and watched the birds fly through a clear blue sky overhead. I dreamed.Back at the mouth of the river I sat with some men. They were there all day, standing around and chatting. One of them told me he was in the mafia.

Day 61:*

On Thursday I paddled in good weather to Terracina. For the most part I was not near land, but I did pass right up against Capo Circeo, and it was the beautiful forests, cliffs, and ruined fortifications that turn my happy sunny days into more then just great kayaking, but a fantastic adventure along an old land.As I made my crossing to Terricina with the sun setting behind me, a couple of motorized coast guard boat pulled up to harass me assure that I was a law abiding boater. They wanted something from me and I couldn't figure out what it was across the language barrier. They started being nicer when I told them I had kayaked from Barcelona but asked me to wait while they figured out what to do with me. After a time I told them that the ''Sola finito, io canoa porto.'' And was on my way. One of the boats rode alongside me for a while, but when I tried to drop back to take advantage of their wake they stopped altogether. I explained to them that their wake was good for me and they said ''OK'' but didn't start up again. I continued paddling and they continued alongside me. Eventually they left me.

I paddled into a busy port that appeared to be at the convergence of at least two cannals. Lots of big fishing boats were running up and down the lanes, fortunately careful not to run me over. The seawalls around the water were high, so when I found a ramp up into a shipyard it was a good place to take my boat off the water, and, fenced in, a secure place to leave it.

A coast guard officer found me there as I was unpacking and told me it was private property and I could not stay there.

''Could I speak to the owner? Maybe I could get permission.''

I expected him to say no. ''One moment.'' The Coast Gaurdian left and came back with the owner. Yes I could stay there overnight with my kayak, ''If anything is wrong, then I will kill you.''

''Nothing will be wrong.'' I told him confidently, but I was scared. Later he came back and introduced me to the night security guard and said that if I needed anything then I should speak to him. He also let me into a big yacht that was being repaired, and had a comfy couch that I could sleep on. The security gaurd woke me up at around 8:30pm with some hot rice, but I told him that I needed to sleep.

Day 62:

On Friday I paddled to Scouri. It was another sunny day, and in the afternoon I enjoyed a wonderful tailwind. There were a number of sea caves more than large enough for me to lose time exploring, but I passed them by to arrive as early as possible before the approaching Sabbath. I did get in one small one though. Paddling into sea caves is awesome, it was my third so far.

I passed near a giant castle with lots of turrets. Aparently this area was involved in lots of fighting with turkey back in the 1400's.

In Scouri there was a large group of people waiting to meet me. There was wine and cakes. I met the mayor and was interviewed by two news crews. No I'm not making this up.

For the Sabbath I was in a hotel that the Lega Navli here was happy to cover for me. I spent the afternoon with some of my hosts walking around a park just outside of the city. I have stayed in many places and here, as in a few others, their kindness is overwhelming.

* I am told Day 60 is still in the bowels of Dov's damaged computer. ~ ed.