Another budget Burgundy

Let's continue wrapping up this month's Wine Focus on affordable Burgundy with a look at another decent red Bourgogne under $20.

Today's featured Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy's largest producers, a Beaune-based firm that owns substantial vineyard property and also is a major negociant, assembling wines from many sources and bottling them under its respected label.

At the top end, many of Jadot's estate-bottled Burgundies rank among the most respected; but even at the generic level, I find it a consistently reliable label for quality and value.

With the understanding that the rule "you get what you pay for" applies in Burgundy as in most consumer products - just-plain Bourgogne isn't likely to match a premier cru bottling in flavor interest or in price - Jadot's Bourgogne Pinot Noir from the excellent 2005 vintage is clean and fresh, nicely balanced and varietally correct. That's a lot to expect from a generic Burgundy under $20. My tasting notes are below.

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Louis Jadot 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($18.99)

Clear ruby. Red cherry fruit and a touch of earth on the nose and palate; nicely balanced with fresh acidity and smooth tannins; alcoholic content is rationally restrained at 12.5%. Not the most complex or exciting Burgundy, but well balanced and a good example of basic red Burgundy style at an affordable price. U.S. importer: Kobrand Corp, NYC. (May 26, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: Very good indeed with a simple dinner crafted for Pinot: Bite-size cubes of strip steak sauteed with mushrooms, onions and tomatoes over rigatoni pasta.

VALUE: Fairly priced against the strong Euro, but my local retail is on the high end; Wine-Searcher.com shows it in the lower teens in some regions.

WHEN TO DRINK: Like Monday's featured Bourgogne Pinot Noir, it's not a long-term keeper, but tannins, fruit and acidic balance should give it the stuffing to last several years in a good cellar.

WEB LINK: The winery Website is published in French and English. Click the French tricolor or British Union Jack for the language of your choice: http://www.louisjadot.com

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