‘Runway’ recap: Creativity trumps commercial appeal

Goodbye, Garnier. Buh-bye, Bluefly. We will not miss your product pitches one little bit. We will miss “Project Runway,” though, which wrapped up the season last night with a glitzy runway show that gave the three finalists barely 10 minutes each to rock and roll at Bryant Park. Although at least we viewers got to see the outfits for a few nano-seconds longer than usual. (This season was the last time that any designer will show there during Fashion Week; in September, the shows move to Lincoln Center).

<img alt="Seth Aaron Henderson took his ideas to the next level with this sophisticated 1940s Russian/German inspired collection.” src=”http://imgs.sfgate.com/blogs/images/sfgate/chronstyle/2010/04/23/projSA3350x525.jpg” width=”350″ height=”525″ border=”0″ />

David Russell/Lifetime

Seth Aaron Henderson took his ideas to the next level with this sophisticated 1940s Russian/German-inspired collection.

They all delivered in their own ways, but it was Seth Aaron Henderson from Vancouver, Wash., who took it to the top with black/white/red/plaid/polka dot/striped collection that made you want to stop the models for a closer look. His inspiration, the 1940s German/Russian military, was odd, but he didn’t go too costumey (except in his own rather strange outfit of black jacket that didn’t cover up enough of his gray and black leggings, and a haircut that made him look like he was wearing a pair of earmuffs). But, he’s so darned sweet, you gotta forgive him. With the exception of one look, an unattractive bubble-tiered purple mini-dress that was eminently unwearable, the collection was lots of fun to watch. We can’t really describe it; as usual, there’s so much going on, but we’ll get back to Seth Aaron in a minute.

Here’s a question that bugged us all night: Faith Hill? Why? The gorgeous country star was the guest judge who brought absolutely nothing to the party, not even a great outfit (she’s a worst-dressed list veteran, in fact). She loved everything, loving some things more than others. Of all the fashion personalities in New York, she just didn’t belong on the finale. How about a real designer like Donna Karan, a Fashion Week veteran? Wasn’t SJP available? Or anyone from “Gossip Girl”? That would have been lots more fun. And unlike Ellen Degeneres, who many say doesn’t belong on “Idol,” Hill isn’t even funny. But a quick cyberspace surf revealed that Hill wants to start her own fashion line. Oh — well, that explains everything.

David Russell/Lifetime

A retro yet luxe coat by Seth Aaron Henderson.

David Russell/Lifetime

Seth Aaron threw in a flowy dress to surprise the judges.

As for the winner, Unzipped thinks it was a well-deserved one by Seth Aaron, who consistently worked hard, didn’t polarize, and was always innovative and surprising. Sure, he overdid it most of the time, but he also listened to Tim Gunn‘s advice. As always, though, his looks are difficult to describe. Even the articulate Gunn couldn’t really get specific on his Lifetime blog.

“The looks in his collection demonstrated an unwavering point of view, spoke to qualities of innovation and embraced risk-taking.” Seth Aaron’s first look, a red dress with black leather banding and belt, and mini-cape, styled with graphic black and white leggings was, at first, too much to take in, but it grew on us. Unzipped really loved the sexy, silky flowy, black and white halter dress combining polka dot and tweed patterns. Seth Aaron was also clearly well-liked by the other designers, a quality that Emilio Sosa sorely lacked.

Mila’s collection was praised for its modern styling and combination of textiles.

Emilio’s collection was full of color, if odd color choices (olive, turquoise and red?) and great tailoring, especially a series of coats. He played with sequins, and another version of a signature print in multi-color blouses and tops, and ended his show with a showstopper, shimmery gold evening gown. But it wasn’t enough. Mila Hemanvoski’s ’60s-inspired collection got a huge boost from the very cool, uberhip hair and makeup (OK, those L’Oreal makeup and hair artists did a fantastic job). The clothes were wearable, sophisticated, and were much more fun overall, with the addition of shiny, sequined mini skirts and cool leggings with see-through sides. “You’re very buttoned up, but when you let yourself go, it’s a lot more fun,” one of the judges told her.

Judge Michael Kors, always quotable, said Seth Aaron’s collection had “kaboom” and was exciting; Nina Garcia said he’s really “grown up,” and Heidi Klum told him he was real showman. He wins $100,000 toward starting a new line, and a spread in Marie Claire.

The judging was tense, as the panel debated the merits of each collection, all of which were sophisticated and wearable, but repeatedly praised Emilio’s colorful, commercial sportswear. However, Kors insisted that the winning designer also had to be creative and surprising, which tipped the balance to Seth Aaron. Emilio looked annoyed when Seth Aaron was named the winner, but when Garcia told him, “You showed a line, not a collection,” he responded, “I accept that.”