I will receive the structure bonding adhesive today that I will use to attach a dovetail rail for a red dot sight. If I had known it is going to cost so much to get a quality dot sight, I might have not started on this project.

So far it looks like the best mini red dot sight for under $300 is the C-more STS. I know that the Burris fastfire is about $80 less, but I am still leaning toward the C-more. Knowledgeable people compare it to $400 - $600 sights.

What prezacly does this base and dot weigh? There is a limit to what can by cycled. I've cycled 43 grams glued to a P22 slide, standard HV ammo. it worked fine.......but 60 grams, or 80 grams.......don't know. M1911

Looks like I can get the base plate that the sight screws on. It comes with most of the ready made sights adapters. Hopefully I can glue this right to the little plate that I will machine to be glued to the slide. This plate will have to be slightly curved and grooved to fit over perfectly(or close to it) the rear of the slide in front of the rear sight.

It looks like a nice little sight, I'm interested in your review just on it. That thing is so small I could pop it on just about anything with a rail, it looks like.

At some point, you're turning the p22 into something it isn't, I'm wondering how well a glued-on sight will be aligned with the barrel (even if superbly glued, the slide top was never designed to be parallel with the barrel) and I start to wonder if the whole integrated setup wouldn't be easier with a pistol designed to be a target or hunting gun like a Ruger mk__ or a BuckMark.

Really nice that it has a glass lense. Some of the other models that were light had plastic lenses. LCBerlin, a member at RFC mounted one of the Burris sights to his P22 with JB Weld. As far as looks go.......it looked perfect. He reported that it worked fine for 300 rounds or so and then the glue let go. Nearly all slides are loose but should return to the same position when the slide closes. The extractor running up on the side of the chamber presses the slide to the right on the P22. Keep us posted JimBob. I'm thinking you might have to file the dovetail off so the base can be flush mounted on the slide. There is a pretty good flat area in front of the stock sight for mounting. I'd be really careful about any filing on the top of the slide. It is already too thin. Might even be possible to remove the polymer rear sight, drill and file just the right size hole in the mounting base and fit it over the loop. Put up some pictures.

There is no comparison of my groups with a red dot compared to the open sights..... 3/8" 10 round groups at 21'. I can't do that with the stock sights. 3.5 dot for target The 7 for tactical training. I'd be interested in the 3.5 and I hope you can turn the brightness of the dot down. The dimmer, the more accurate. Slide out battery tray is a nice feature. M1911

I knew I had lifted a picture of it. lcberlin's picture. Lose the laser and you have a really clean pistol. Now doesn't that red dot look just about right for the P22. If we can only figure out a way to mount one. M1911

Could this be any uglier. Accurate it is.....just too ugly for me. $30 BSA red dot.

I seen the photos on another thread. In fact, over the last couple of months, I would refer back to it because it is exactly how I want mine to look when finished.
JB Weld is good for a lot of things, I use it myself. But I do not think it is the best for this application. Here is a video that uses a sister glue to the one I got.

I was going to file the top of the slide flat, but decided to mill slots in the mount so it fill fit good on the slide like it is.

I will take my time to get it light weight and low profile as possible, but still strong enough to last.

Because of my bad eyes, I was forced to go to optics. I have shot ~ 8000 rounds using a laser. It is a very good training tool for fast/rapid firing. I can see immediately when I started pulling off target. But I always wanted to try a good red dot sight. I have used a red sight for my CP99 BB gun, but it is one of the cheaper, generic versions that is the same thing made by the same company overseas that different companies get and put their name on it. It has those plastic lenses you mentioned.