Growing French Lavender

French lavender is well-suited to both formal and naturalized settings.

If the fragrance alone isn't enough to convince you to grow French lavender (Lavandula dentata), consider that the plants are drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and require little maintenance. More delicate in color than English lavender, it is well-suited to drying for crafts and culinary use. French lavender works well in mild, Mediterranean climates in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 where some types bloom most of the year.

Requirements

Lavender needs full sun and soil that is very well-draining. Once established, the plants tolerate dry conditions but they don't tolerate wet soil. Loose, sandy soil is best. Amend clay soil with organic matter or plant lavender on raised mounds. Incorporate plenty of course material into the mounded soil for improved drainage. Lavender prefers a neutral or slightly alkaline pH.

Planting

French lavender is best planted on a mound where the excess water can run off. Set out plants after the last spring frost, spacing them 15 to 18 inches apart. Sow seeds in late winter or spring when a light frost is still possible. Keep the soil lightly moist and be patient. French lavender seeds can take two to three months to germinate. Wait until the seedlings are 5 to 6 inches tall before mulching with gravel.

Maintenance

In the absence of rain, water the plants weekly during the first summer and once every three weeks in subsequent summers. The plants grow best and have the strongest fragrance when the soil is kept dry. Gravel mulch looks natural around lavender plants and helps prevent the soil from retaining too much moisture. Organic mulch holds moisture near the plant at the soil line and may encourage rot. French lavender doesn't need annual fertilization, but the plants benefit from a thin layer of compost every other year in late fall or winter.

Pruning

Cut mature French lavender plants back by one-third to one-half if they don't seem to be getting off to a good start. If they start growing in early spring just trim out winter damage and prune lightly to shape the plants. It’s a good idea to cut the plants back by one-third every two or three years, whether they seem to need it or not. In summer, limit your pruning to removing spent flower stems. You can shear them off all at once after a big flush of blooms to encourage reblooming. If you don't like the looks of the dried flower stems in fall, you can clip them off, but be careful not to cut into the leafy part of the stems. Cutting back too far in fall encourages new growth at a time when the plant should be conserving its resources for winter.

About the Author

Jackie Carroll has been a freelance writer since 1995. Her home-and-garden and nature articles have appeared in "Birds & Blooms" and "Alamance Today." She holds a Bachelor of Science in medical technology from the University of North Carolina.