Oh and to answer your question about down tuning for the track as of now I have not gone to a track day on this set up. I have done a few auto cross events and have no issue with the power. I am running some pretty sticky Nitto NT01's that a crazy good. I did recently get some new rims for street use with some less aggressive tread and yes that makes the car basically useless in 1st and half of second gear. But with the NT01's I can ease into a launch and the thing hooks up.

That's crazy you're getting that much power from pump gas on stock cams. Also looks like your power curve is pretty darn linear. I know the S15 cams are more aggressive than the S13's, but 40 more HP on 91 oct. Here's my graph from the DynoJet at Rebello.

Ah, I assumed when you said "I recentlyupgraded to a S15 T28" you were talking about the whole enchilada, motor and all. For a stock red top on 14psi, those numbers seem kind of high. Or maybe I'm just doing something wrong,

Three B's Racing wrote:Damn nice it is!!!! But couldn't help notice what looks like the plug well booths are not or do not seal around the well the way it should. I'll go out on a limb and say those Yoda plug boots don't fit. Magna core makes a set for the RWD S14/S15 NA SR20DE as I worked with those guys getting plug boots that fit and wires that were long enough because the stocked wires they had were to short and the plug insulator was too long and boots didn't seal. But we got it figured out and done

Hey BX3

You're right, those plug boots don't quite fit over the well. Very close, but no cigar. What was your solution, and did it cost an arm and a leg?

Three B's Racing wrote:Damn nice it is!!!! But couldn't help notice what looks like the plug well booths are not or do not seal around the well the way it should. I'll go out on a limb and say those Yoda plug boots don't fit. Magna core makes a set for the RWD S14/S15 NA SR20DE as I worked with those guys getting plug boots that fit and wires that were long enough because the stocked wires they had were to short and the plug insulator was too long and boots didn't seal. But we got it figured out and done

Hey BX3

You're right, those plug boots don't quite fit over the well. Very close, but no cigar. What was your solution, and did it cost an arm and a leg?

Na!! just an arm about $105 see message. They can make them to you're required length,,just ask.

For this new set, we have assigned part numbers 47530 (7mm black), 40530 (8mm blue) and 45530 (8.5mm red) to these sets, but not prices as yet - these sets fit SR20DE RWD engines originally used in S14/S15 Silvia/200SX and S13 180SX models.

Our other SR20DE RWD part numbers are 47461 (7mm), 40461 (8mm) and 45461 (8.5mm) - this is only for S13 Silvia.

(I am available M-F from about 8:30AM to 4:30PM and I will usually not answer e-mail over the weekend)

Mailing Address: 24581 Crestview Farmington Hills, MI 48335 USA

On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 11:15 AM, <cegarra@aol.com> wrote: Hey Steve

Got the wire yesterday and it fit like a glove and clips perfectly SEND'M!!! Cool now you have wires for the RWD S14 & S15 NA engines, you going to get a part number in place for them? I know guys in need. Is this wire part of my set? and if so which one is it 123 or 4?

Lou "I can finally stop loosing money on shipping"

"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think" - John Lennon

Robs wrote:Holy smokes, I just read through your entire build.....wow. It is info like this that is helping me with my SR odyssey, thank you for sharing.

Kind of reads like War and Peace right. As you can see, I had a lot of help from the guys at The Realm. Tons of knowledge lurking here. This place proves the internet is a good thing. Where are you at with your build, and is it a 510 swap? Do you have a build thread anywhere? If you need help starting one, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand.

I do not have a build thread although I have been thinking about doing one. I am stepping up to an SR (from a KA) in my '71 510 two-door. Right now I am still waiting for a few more major pieces like the exhaust manifold, down pipe and intercooler.

Once I am finished collecting parts I will start putting things together....and maybe document all of the pain/joy of this project. If I get to the point of starting a build thread I might take you up on lending me a hand, thanks.

I know this will be met with some degree of scorn from the purists, because it strays so far from the classic 4 eyed look of the 510 grill. In the end my dime is far from stock already, I decided to move forward with this headlight idea.

As we all know, the stock 510 headlights leave a lot to be desired, even with an L16. With the SR though, it's down right dangerous. My brother is the only one driving the car at night, so he is the one pushing this upgrade. A few years ago I was looking into installing the BMW projector headlights, but found I have too much cold air intake stuff in the way. Researching a bit further, I found projector beam lights made by Hella that fit perfectly in the opening of the 510 headlight pots, and do not extend too deep into the engine bay. They are however small, and set in a matt black housing, so they do not look anything like a sealed beam light.

These are Hella projector beam headlights that sell for $65 each. We got two low, 2 high. Now for the good part. the bolt pattern on the outside edge of the projector housing fits right onto the flat inner lip of the 510's headlight pot. Drill four 3/16th holes on the lip and it's in.

Of course the stock electrical system is not up to the job of powering these lights, so it needs a relayed power source and heavier gage wire. While pricing out the parts to put together a ground switched light harness, I called Ray at rallylights.com to place the order. I told him what we were doing and he offered to build it for $130 all parts included. I couldn't pass that up. Everything down to the stock light plug interface means all I need to do is get power from the starter, ground, and connect the old headlight plug to the new relay trigger plug and it's good to go.

As you can see there is a diod isolating the trigger power source. Other than that it's pretty straight forward.

To maintain a more stock look to the lights I'm going to paint the inside of the light pot silver, and cover the lights with a 5 3/4" chrome mess light protector. Something like this.

Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

Oooooh that's nice Julian. Those Porsche guys always get the good stuff.

Well, I don't think mine will look quite that polished, but I'll strive for something clean at least. If I have room, I'd like to mount the light from behind the flange so just the front ring of the projector extends through the opening. Things are pretty tight on the turbo side though. If I have too mount them on the front it will make it much harder to keep it looking half way presentable because all the adjustment springs and screws would be visible. Unfortunately, it will be at least two weeks before I can instal them, but we'll see.

Finished the lighting upgrade on the 510, and it worked out better than I could have imagined.

You can see on the outside of the light pod housing there are mounting bolt receivers. As luck would have it, these bolt holes line up perfectly with the inner flange of the stock headlight dish. This made for an easy install, and all the adjustments are still done with the stock bracket.

Another added benefit is there's plenty of airflow passing around these lights, so it allows cool air for intake. My air filter sits right behind the headlight. On the harness you can see Ray incorporated a stock headlight plug for using the stock output as the relay trip. Again super easy instal.

I was going to paint the inside of the headlight dish silver to mimic the sealed beams, but it looked really janky. I think the black on black with the stainless ring looks much better. Although I haven't taken the car out to adjust them yet, the cutoff line is ridiculously crisp, and bright. WAY better than the weak ass stock sealed beams.