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Here’s something I never thought I’d say five years ago: I’m starting to think the vegans have a point.

OK, sure, I’ve done the unrepentant-carnivore thing – the steak-for-breakfast phase, the all-you-can-eat-Brazilian-buffets, the endless quest to wrap every possible foodstuff in bacon – but this isn’t just a behavioural rebound. It’s about everything else: the hormone-addled pigs, the greeting-card-cute chicks being ground up by the tonne, and the 18 percent of greenhouse gas emissions caused by flatulent cows. It’s about the health implications – though I’m not convinced that quality meat is doing me any harm, I’m almost certain I don’t eat enough vegetables – and the sustainability.