For those running 1X10, what's your gear range?

Broke my FD in a crash yesterday and might use this as an excuse to make the switch. My cassette is an 11-36, and I was running a 24/38 up front. My rides are in the SM mountains (Jedi, J-drop, Backbone, etc). I'm a decent climber, but by no means a hardcore XC rider. Most of my training is on the road, but I like to hit the mountain a few times a week for fun.

So what are you running? I've read that most seem ok with 32 or 34 up front. Bike is a Pivot 5.7 Carbon.

32 x 36 on a 34lb Carbon Nomad with a 180 Float in the front.
No more sitting and casually spinning up steep, loose, or tech climbs.
Took a while to adjust to new climbing techniques.
Long rides with lots of climbing can be a chore-no bailout gear does take it's toll on long climbing days.
I stand and climb more now. I pretend I'm on a singlespeed and usually just ride a higher gear in the rear and climb standing as long as I can maintain traction.
That way when I need to go to the 36 I can sit and push an easier gear.
The drive train is a lot more quiet on descents.
It's easy to spin out the gears on descents with the 32 so I find myself laying off the brakes more and looking to pick up speed by pumping the bike and smoothly hitting transitions.
You will end up climbing faster.

When I was running 1x10 had a 36T up front. Loved the 1/1 ratio for climbing so much that I down geared my XX1 from a 38T to a 36T to get it back. When I first switched to 1x on my XTR setup about 8 months ago I had made some serious changes over a 4 month period. Started on a 22/32/44 and was known as a the king of spinners. Switched to a 28/40 up front just to try it. It pushed me physically for a couple of weeks, but I adapted. Two months later I switched to 1x and was planning on going to a 32T up front. On a whim I mounted up a 36T instead and never took it off. Again, I was pushed to my limit physically for a few weeks, but I got much faster both up and down and ended up loving it. Made the switch to XX1 another 2 months later and will never go back to a non dedicated 1x group.

Thanks for the feedback. I think a 32 will suit me well, especially since I rarely spin out my gears going down anyway. I figured If I was going to be doing a long and hard ride, I could always toss the 28 on there and just suck it up on the descents.

Another vote here for 32T. I went with that when I first went 1x9 (with 34T cassette), and there was some pain for the first couple months. Its no big deal I just stopped to rest more often and HAB'd more as well, but eventually got a lot stronger for it. When I upgraded to 1x10 I went 34T up front and 11-36 rear. That too was a painful step up even with the bigger cassette. Doing this right before a CO trip was probably not the brightest move. A year later and now used to 34T I had to take it off during last year's CO trip. The drivetrain was giving me problems for one (worn out) and I was just not having fun suffering with the bigger ring on some of those climbs. Going back down to 32T but keeping the 11-36 really helped and I'll probably keep that setup from now on. I may even go back to 1x9 since it is cheaper, since 11-36 is now available for 9 sp, and it seems to last longer. I was not impressed with how long the 1x10 components lasted compared to what I usually get out of 1x9.

I've been running 1x9 for about 9 months, with a 32t in front and 11-34 rear. Like Norman, Salespunk and Evdog have all said, after a few weeks you'll adapt your riding style and your legs will get stronger. I've got pretty strong legs already, but my cardio is lacking, so slower/stronger cranking works well for me. Spinning in a lower gear just maxes my HR too fast.

I've found I can clean almost everything I could before but occasionally have to get off and walk the really tough stuff. I've often felt I could use just one more lower gear, so I'm thinking of going to a 36 in the rear. I didn't know you could get an 11-36 in a 9spd (like Evdog mentioned), so I was going to go with a 12-36 and sacrifice a little on the top end.

Another thing you'll probably want is some sort of chainguide. Without a front derailleur, there's nothing to stop your chain from bouncing off the front chainring, typically on a fast, rocky descent. I've had good luck with a "bashwich" setup, which consists of both an inner and outer bash guard (have a look at BBG bashguards - the 64bcd replaces your small chainring and forms the inner half of the bashwich). Just be sure to check that you have adequate frame clearance first. An even simpler option is the Jump Stop, which clamps onto your lower seat tube and provides a simple guide to keep your chain from jumping off to the inside. Couple that with a bashguard on the outside and it does a pretty decent job (in fact, that's what I'm running right now). Of course, you can go with a full-on chain guide from E13, Blackspire, etc. but I don't have any experience with those.

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Edit: I just looked at your original post, and I see that you've got a Mach 5.7 Carbon. First of all.... NICE BIKE!!! But... the Jump Stop won't work for you (no lower seat tube to clamp to!). Also, frame clearance looks tight so I'd question if the bashwich option will work. And, it doesn't look like the Mach 5.7 comes with ISCG tabs. Better check with the experts (your Pivot dealer, or other Pivot owners out there) for your best options for chainguides.

I've got a 26T front and 12-36 rear on my Leviathan. We've got lots of hills where I ride, so I wouldn't want to go to a higher front, I'd end up walking the long sustained climbs. As it is, sometimes I want a 24T front, but then I remind myself to get stronger, and finish the climb anyway