Messages - evomaki

Makes me wonder if it is an oil pressure thing. If the dashboard gauge is to be believed, I get just about 60 psi at revs (say around 2,500 to 3,000) closer to 30 psi at idle. Is that within spec? Thanks,

Here is the weird thing. My lifters sound great for the first 5 minutes, maybe as long as 10 if it is a cold day, only then do they start to tick. That is so weird. I now have 15w-40 Rotel in the thing, but ticked with other oils similarly. I'm in Atlanta so not awful cold weather. Just annoys me to have the thing tick.

Replying to an old thread here, but I need to replace my lash adjusters for a second time. 2000 Gen 2.5. I went with the Melling Chinese made versions from Autozone as they were the only aftermarket source I could locate. Looks like there are others, had I only known. My cheap Melling units tick annoyingly. I primed them right, and I've done every trick under the sun to "quiet" your lifters from add this to add that. Partsouq is interesting. I'm not sure I know how to enter the code for my 2000 Gen 2.5. I entered "V45W" and 3500/LONG WAGON - LS,4FA/T FED". Beats the heck out of me if that is what I have. Any of you all know what the code is for my vehicle? I also plan to ask the Ninja Performance guys, but they seem to have parts for 6G72. I think I have a 6G74, if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance for the help.

I'll jump in with my $0.02. If you have 4.63 gearing with a factory locker, the 4.90 gearing swap is work and $. The 4.90 gearing with which I am available comes from certain model year Montero Sports. That 4.90 third member is a bit shorter on the driver side, vs the 4.63 unit with factory locker. You will need a longer driver side axel shaft to make up the difference. There are two options:

1. 4.90 from a MOntero Sport. I think the Sport driver side axle shaft will work, but check the tone ring. Does it match? I did not have that issue because I went with the 4.90 swap from a Sport into an open diff 4.27. I retained my existing old axle shafts. That is an easy third member swap, with one exception. Why do this and have no locker? So you have to buy the ARB set up and swap out the carrier in the pumpkin (install your 4.90 ring gear on the ARB unit and put that back into your third member. That is relatively easy in the world of differential work as you are not messing with the pinion gear at all. The downside here is buying the sport axle assemblies and the ARB. Plan on spending at least $1,600 on all the goodies.

2. Source 4.90 ring and pinion parts. Either used from a Sport or new if available. This will then take a real professional to install the gearing as the ring and pinion have to be set up. That takes a pro. This way you retain your factory locker and use your existing driveshafts. I think it is some $$ to have that done. You all may know better than me but might be about the same as option no. 1.

I'd probably just enjoy the vehicle and make sure the cooling system is up to the task. The difference all this makes is not huge. Maybe get some of those Marks re-gear for the transfer case from ADD. Then you will be awesome in 4wd low.

Don't mean to jump into the middle of a good thing going here, but one option might be Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies. They have a very comprehensive catalogue of all kinds of hose and fittings. They have pre-made Goodrich brake lines for fairly cheap that run AN female to AN female on each end. They have straights, 90's and a mix. To that you would purchase the appropriate fittings which run from metric flare to AN male, one on each side, caliper and hard line. I did a brake lines for an old BMW track car years ago from these guys. I ran Wilwood calipers to metric flare hard lines on that car from Pegasus. Worked great. Just an idea.

One shot in the dark is the fuel pressure sensor on top of the tank. This is accessible by removing the cover plate on the floor of the rear cargo area. I know that failure of that sensor does not throw an error code, but will affect vehicle operation. It is not hard to R&R, but it is something like $70. My truck had a cold start problem. A Mitsu tech I know said try swapping that out from one of my other cars and it made the difference.

Wow, great information. After some back and forth with RC Hill Mitsubishi (I think they are MitsubishiPartsWarehouse.com) I have learned that the entire transfer case shifter (ball and everything else all assembled) is part number MR 110334. This would be for a gen 2.5. Not sure if that would work for other models as well. I will say that this part number does not easily come up on websites. Only found one with a description,and it sounds right but no picture. The person I emailed at RC Hill did not sound like a "parts guy...or gal." You all know, that vanishing breed of parts person who knows their **it. Therefore, I am only 90% confident in that part number. Roughly $180 bucks, so not cheap. If it is right, I'd spend the $$. Anybody here have confirmation this is the right part number? Thanks,

Here is another option on how to remove the sprocket. I used 1/4" grade 8 bolts. The heads had to be thinned down a little bit to fit in the spot between the sprocket and the block (well, oil pump actually...I think). Just tightened the nuts on each bolt alternately and the thing walked itself out.