Thanks for the complement on the appearance of my rifles. I think that a custom rifle should look good
as well as shoot good.

Everyone has different ways of dealing with the accuracy issue. Some feel that some things are not
worth the effort because you may only gain a few thousandths in group size. Others Like my self
believe that any operation that will true everything to the bore is worth the effort.

I feel that is the process of elimination, If I resolve every issue that I can I have a better chance
of producing a sub 1/4 MOA rifle. That includes starting with the best barrel, A trued action, A quality
stock, Best Trigger and a good pillar bedding.

If all of this is done the only things that should lessen the accuracy is the Loads and the shooter.

A properly assembled rifle should take away any excuses for poor accuracy except those two.

I will be the first to admit that I am anal about everything being as good as I can get it, And I don't
want to be second guessing myself as to what should have done or could have done when I start
shooting it and It doesn't meet my expectations.

The main advantage is consistency, and the ability to shoot well with any load. and have several
loads that will out shoot Me on any given day.

I never rate anyones work until I have to dissemble there work and find things are over looked,
or simply not important enough to bother with in there mind.

I don't post my rates because I have much lower overhead than some and it would not be apples to apples
pricing. I will say that it cost less blue print a Remington than a for a Savage because there are two more
set ups because of the "Floating Bolt Head" (Setups are time consuming).

Having a V Block in a stock does not guarantee accuracy (Some do well and others don't)
Most of the inserted stocks have a built in flaw, The pillars that should touch the bottom to work
correctly DON'T. when I bed one of these I first machine a insert to fit in the pillar that extends
up to touch the action. Look at your HSP and you will see that the pillars are below the stock line.
This produces bending moment in the action when tightening the bedding screws.

J E CUSTOM

I own a few savage rifles and all are dead ass accurate..I find your point interesting..I have been to the factory a few times and have talked to the gies that have said no to your argument..My point is I had 1 savage rifle that would lock up on me every now and then to the point where the bolt would lift but not come out.
I actually had to pound it out with a rubber hammer...Savage had me bring it in
and on the 3rd round it locked up at there indoor range and had to be hammered out again...Floating head or not I wanted it trued and they said no need because of the floating head. In the end they built me a new rifle to replace the one they never did figure out as far as I know...The new one worked perfect and is one of my best factory rifles..I do believe you are correct..

The only problem with Freds thinking on his time and true is; If the reciever is trued so all surfaces match the existing internal thread tennon, and that thread tennon is un concentric with the bolt bore, the barrel is going to point off at an angle relative to the scope base screws/action centerline. Thus causing the possibility of running out of windage or elevation in a scope.

I have seen this on a couple bone stock factory savages.

I have trued many savages in my shop that were then fit with conventional shouldered barrels, and some with the savage nut. The critical surfaces are machined to the bolt bore just as a remy and when you are done the bolt head dosen't need to pivot to get full lug engagement, which as JE pointed out, if they do need to pivot, then the bolt face is now angled relative to the amount of offset in the lug abutments. This causes the case head to cant at the angle of misalignment during fire-forming . Now when the bolt is opened and as the bolt face turns relative to the case head it creates a caming pressure which will increase bolt lift/resistance.