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DECADENCE AT ASHLEY ISHAM
One thing is clear: Ashley Isham appeals to the senses. Goldsmiths Hall is aesthetically decadent with plush red velvet curtains, blinding spotlights and excessive chandeliers mounted on the ceiling. The stalls of attendees devour the opulent decor and as the models begin to stream in, it is apparent that the location is all too befitting to the occasion. Alluring jewel tones compliment the delicate oriental patterning and the silky swathes of dress trains that lightly kiss the catwalk; allude to the modern affluent woman. She is all at once inappropriately enticing and yet unbearably unapproachable and Isham's designs evoke, rather, scream this unhindered sensuality. Dresses are sheer with ornate floral appliqué spirals and silk batwing sleeves adorn the luxurious cocktail pieces. These are certainly not the kind of dresses to grace the local shops in; however, Isham's collection clearly depicts a woman who has someone to do that for her.

THE FUTURE'S BRIGHT FOR BERNARD CHANDRANPhotos: Getty
The queue is around the block. The fashion pack is slowly turning into the angry mob as impatience ripples through the crowd. The one man to blame for the unadulterated disquiet is Bernard Chadran and the heavy anticipation of his spring/summer 2013 collection. Finally inside, the show notes caution a collection 'positive in energy, edgy and yet supreme in every way'; and indeed this is an accurate description of what occurs. Chandran plays with not only textures - rich embellishment contrasted with plastic-fantastic patent detail - but also with hem levels; utilising a structural form of the waterfall skirt and then reversing it. The ante is upped with dramatic patent heel-less shoes and leather bustier attachments and then brought down a notch with chiffon and crepe fabrics. The aesthetic is alarmingly futuristic and what is clear as the show comes to a close, is that the future is bright. The future is Chandran.

ANTIPODIUM HOUSWIVESPhotos: Vladimir Potop
The heavy luminous curtain lifts in a dramatic fashion as oriental string notes ring out alarmingly to signal the start of the show. Antipodium is full steam ahead. As the few first models stride down the catwalk, the 50's Stepford Wives aesthetic is apparent. However, one thing is for certain; these are not the stay-at-home type. Futuristic bomber jackets with patent peach sleeving are draped callously over pretty chiffon dresses and skirts. The models style slicked back square ponies shaped by angular metal frames. Square hair? That's right, you heard it here first. Odd details such as patent collars and extravagant partial side peplums punctuate the soft feminine silhouettes created by the midi hems. Lime, apricot and eventually foil pieces strut down the runway. Antipodium deliver: dinner AND a show.
- Maybelle Morgan

JOHN ROCHA THRILLS FANS WITH FRILLS
For anyone who's been going to London Fashion Week as long as I have, it's easy to think of John Rocha as part of the furniture. But every building needs furniture to make it beautiful, and beauty is Rocha's forte. His aesthetic is not for every girl, but Rocha devotees will find much to covet in this collection.
Demi-couture textures in his trusty monochrome palette were interspersed with soft mint greens and bubblegum pinks. Sheer organza complimented heavy brocades while the trimming du jour - which even made an appearance on the invites - was strips of frilled cotton lace, which Rocha worked into a shaggy fabric and shaped into sculptural prom dresses. If you're a trend-watcher, look away, but if ultra-feminine craftsmanship is your thing, Rocha's your man.
Belinda White

MAWI'S NEW GLITTERBUG MUST-HAVE

CREAM TEA WITH SIBLING
Gosh, that Sibling lot don't half put on a good spread. Calling upon W London to host a bespoke afternoon tea, the design trio behind Sister by Sibling - Cozette McCreery, Joe Bates and Sid Bryan (from left to right) - went one further than just feeding weary fashionistas, they showcased spring/summer 2013's inspirational prints on the French fancies themselves. That's dedication to a fashion-forward scone session that Team Telegraph can definitely get on board with.
Alice Newbold. Photos: Nick Harvey

INTRODUCING SOPHIA WEBSTER
Choosing eight life-size Barbie-esque boxes to present her debut collection of neon/ Aztec/ Rio de Janeiro-inspired and downright fabulous range of shoes and bags, there is no mistaking that Sophia Webster has arrived.
The Royal College of Art graduate has been mentored by established shoe maverick Nicholas Kirkwood, and in some of the zig-zag embellished, dainty-heeled styles it showed - but in a good way.
This is an offering that will blow a gust of fun into the girliest of wardrobes: from the flamingos adorning block-heeled sandals to clear plastic flats decorated with fluorescent pink heart-shaped toe caps, these shoes certainly weren't made for static Barbie, they were made for turning heads.
Olivia Bergin

MARQUES'ALMEIDA GO FOR BIG LEBOWSKI GRUNGE
Portuguese design duo Marques'Almeida cite their muse as a neo-grunge 1990's teenager but, as the first models stepped onto the catwalk of their spring/summer 2013 show to the sounds of Len's slacker anthem "Drinking in L.A", it was an altogether more polished girl who emerged.
The pair, both alumni of Central St Martin's MA course, spent winter in the woods designing the collection which was apparent from the pine green denim pieces roughly adorned with naïf leaves and stars. Their signature loose silhouettes in raw-edged denim have grown cleaner and crisper since their last season. Simple denim layers were interspersed with sheer cotton panels, exposing the odd flash of thigh.
Light, semi-sheer cotton separates came in mint-green, clean white and, what is emerging as spring's key colour, soft lavender.
Knits were in long, slouchy shapes, including a dressing-gown style reminiscent of the Big Lebowski, but their bright white hues dismissed any connotations of grubbiness.
The collection was lighter and cleaner than the previous season. Spaghetti-strapped, white cotton dresses were beautifully blank and fresh. And I could imagine the indigo-denim and cotton semi-sheer dress working perfectly for evening. Maybe the neo-grunge girl of the pair's dreams has grown up. Just a tiny bit. -
Kate Rose Morris. Photos: @LondonFashionWeek

SUITS YOU, SIR
Where does this man buy his suits? Guessing it's not M&S, despite the bag.

RAG & BONE BANG
Rag & Bone landed in London with a bang - well, more of a splash really - with Anna Wintour christening their first European store on Sloane Square.
Once the be-bobbed one had obligingly smashed a bottle of champagne on the shop's door frame - with a helping hand from designers David and Marcus, it was a short hop across the zebra crossing to the specially erected marquee in the square itself, to take in a presentation of their spring/summer 2013 collection. British models Jourdan Dunn and Cara Delevingne joined a line-up of the coolest girls you're ever likely to see in this postcode in an array of urban classics with a scuba sport vibe, souped up with flashes of acid green, cobalt blue and coral.
The Rag & Bone girl is a street style photographer's dream - cool in an unobvious, nonchalant way - in short, the perfect fit for London. The designers who hail from these shores, but set up shop in New York, clearly still have British DNA coursing through their veins, and translated it pitch perfect onto the catwalk.
- Belinda White

BE HONESTPhotos: honestby.com
If you see only one thing at London Fashion Week, make sure it is Bruno Pieters' Honest by collection at the Estethica show at Somerset House. After spending ten years in the industry working for Hugo Boss and doing his own collection, Pieters had a bit of an epiphany when he took some time out to travel. He came back with a clear vision of a totally transparent way of working: a collection where every detail is explained for the consumer to see. So if you want to know how and where your trousers were made, from the provenance of the cotton to the factory where the button was moulded, everything is there for you to see in minute detail on
www.honestby.com
. Even the costings are broken down including the designer's mark up and the retail mark up. Honest by launched last January and this is the second collection. It is a clear blueprint for the future of the fashion industry - great design, beautiful fabrics, immaculately made and accountable and traceable at every point of the journey. Go - and be inspired.
- Tamsin Blanchard

TODD LYNN'S TROPICAL TRIPPhotos: Getty
The sound machine was set to 'jungle noise' as the crowd piled into the Todd Lynn show - apt, since the temperature inside the Courtyard Show Space was positively tropical. That crowd included The Kills' Alison Mosshart and Lady Victoria Hervey, sitting front row to see what Lynn had in store. The show notes told us the designer had been inspired by
Heart of Darkness
and
Apocalypse Now
, though the first few khaki looks were more safari-chic than girl soldier. Things got a little more savage when the colour palette turned blood red on dresses, shirts and wide leather corset belts and a little more jungle fever when it dipped into greens. Then, all of a sudden, there was a sartorial power cut - the clothes went pitch black, and look after colourless look trotted out. They were beautiful and showcased the sharp tailoring Lynn is known for, with shoulders sliced to reveal a little skin and tops cut away at the midriff to reveal plenty more. Maybe the blacks represented the aftermath of the jungle apocalypse, or maybe there were simply two ideas going here, both of which could have been pushed a little further. -
Nick Barron

FULTON'S FAB FOURSPhotos: PA/AP/AFP
Four models walked out simultaneously, pausing mid-way on the catwalk in the semi-darkness. Another four piled out behind them, then another row, then another, as the lights went on. Before the crowd could get a better look, the troupe dispersed. Had Holly Fulton short-changed the audience, which included Gemma Arterton, by pulling a Marc Jacobs over-in-five-minutes prank? Thankfully not (much to their relief - the wait was ruddy boiling in the show space on Mercer Street), as the girls returned - in single file - for an encore. This season, the Fulton woman is an "all-American" beach babe making her way from the West Coast to Mexico. A beach-ready bikini opened the show, but Fulton's woman was more concerned with the wardrobe for the journey rather than destination. And there were some lovely road-trip propositions: the printed silk shirts matched with shorts or box-pleated skirts, the boxy-ish jacket and skirt suit in baby blue and navy circles that had a whiff of Prada spring/summer 2012 about it (incidentally, wheels featured in Prada's collection, too). The plastic macs and skirts in pink with rose print, however - not so much. Perhaps they'd look better fashioned into parasols for the Mexican beaches.
- Phong Luu

MORE WINTOUR
Here's some footage of Anna Wintour opening the Rag & Bone store. Stick with it, it gets good when she lets out a little squeal as the Champagne bottle hits the wall.

'PERSONALITIES' ON THE FRONT ROW
...We'd love to say that LFW was jam-packed with bona fide slebs, but sadly thus far, we'll have to settle film director Tom Hooper (who technically helps make stars out of others) a rather bronzed Nancy Dell'Olio and pin-up Kelly Brook.
Click here to see the full line up

WINTOUR HAS LANDED
Anna Wintour is in the house. She's just officially opened Rag & Bone's first UK store, and look how happy she is about it! The label's two British founders David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, pictured here with her, seem pretty chuffed too.

CONRAN'S NEW GROOVEPhotos: Getty
The Astroturf catwalk and neon flowers should have been warning enough - Jasper Conran was about to go all hippy on us. Beautiful barefoot, blow-dried models wore an array of short shorts and Glastonbury-appropriate attire. It started out well with a sequinned Breton-striped mini (which we later saw in red, silver and a multi-coloured honeycomb pattern), appliquéd dark denim, blazers and biker jackets with nothing underneath - unrealistic but it looked good all the same - but then the psychedelic onslaught began.Orange and pink, a splash of gingham and some patchwork too. Sequinned, see-through, super-short - it was all there
The patchwork ballgown was a nice touch and probably the best example of Conran fusing what he does best with a whole new vibe, which wasn't a complete success and at times seemed a little disjointed.
All in all it was new move for Conran who we most readily associate with timeless, classic design, not sure it will appeal to his usual clientele but it was a fun show all the same.
- Bibby Sowray

FASHION WEEK MUGGER...?
Tash Cowan AKA 'Lady Three Phones' outside Holly Fulton. Has she been pick pocketing the front row? No, she's just the consummate PA. Well, when you're Suzy Menkes' right hand woman, you need to be on call at all times.

DION LEE'S MINIMAL MAGIC
The SS13 offering from Australian designer Dion Lee had a sport luxe feel with minimal shapes and graphic lines. Opening the show were slouchy trousers, cropped tops and butter soft leather jackets in a monochrome palette.
Wafty sheath dresses and loose shirts had sheer panels revealing a flash of thigh and arm that was sexy yet understated.
Known for his sculptural forms, this season Lee used leather and bonded fabrics to created 3D waves on the neckline and hem creating a contoured silhouette.
Form was further emphasised by leather straps harnessing the body worn atop tailored cocktail dresses. The mainly pale palette of cream, blush pink and lilac was injected with pops of Fluro orange and deep purple for a fresh clean look.
The stand out look was a slick black leather jacket and pencil skirt with twisted interwoven panels running down the spine and arms and had a distinct cat woman appeal.
Already stocked in Net-a-porter, Browns and Matches (to name but a few) this young designer is certainly going places.
Frankie Graddon

WATCH: TARA P-T'S FIRST SINGLE WAS SHOT IN PHILIP TREACY'S STUDIO

We're serious, '5 Seconds' is Tara's debut. We're kind of lost for words, but it's a fair bet to say that she wrote, directed, styled, co-ordinated and produced the whole affair. Poor Philip Treacy, he probably had no idea what he was getting himself into.

CRUISING IN STYLE
Thanks to Thomas Pink a quartet of TeleFashion are enjoying being Lady Penelope for the day: wind swept barnets and seamless show transitions, being chauffeured around by the lovely Mark in an open top Morgan. Who needs Parker?

EDGY AT FASHION EAST
There was a bit of a wait for the Fashion East-as (ahem) outside the initiative's new venue at 50 St. James St, although the arrival of fashion royalty Chris Eubank kept everyone amused (WTF?).
When we got in, Ryan Lo gave us pink puffball 'muppet' fur chic and glitter a-plenty, while Claire Barrow kept it dark with prints of scary faces, PVC dungarees and cropped biker jackets. Upstairs, Maarten van der Horst showed a collection inspired by mass produced fashion and waste, quite literally in fact - his one-shoulder dresses were made from recycling bags... Wouldn't one get a bit sweaty on one's night out in Hoxton?
Nick Barron

GET YOUR ROCKS ON
The British Fashion Council initiative, Rock Vault, saw a dozen young and exciting jewellery designers let loose and armed with an ounce of the latest precious metal, Palladium with one aim - to create a ring. In a project set by Stephen Webster, the Rock Vault dozen certainly didn't disappoint.
Alex Jefford kept it geometric with twisted square bars, Melanie Georgacopoulos created a delicate knuckleduster with a wave of pearls while Tomasz Donocik went one step further, crafting two rings which nestled together to form a dragon-fly like creation across the fingers.
Victoria Bain

HUISHAN ZHANG'S DAZZLING DEBUT
Chinese newcomer Huishan Zang made his LFW debut in Somerset House's Portico Room's this morning - a fact made all the more obvious as his parents endearingly recorded every moment on their iPad and iPhone.
New to the BFC's NEWGEN roster, the Central Saint Martins graduate referenced his native country in the small motifs of ancient birds, mahjong tiles and pagodas printed upon silk dresses in hues of minty green and midnight blue.
Inch-long chains of pale sequins sewn together upon collars made for a three-dimensional impact, and the technique was repeated along the body of the collection's finale dress - a long, backless number in minted green.
Beautifully patterned lace was also peppered into the collection, and the cape-like sleeves on several of the dresses made for an utterly elegant silhouette.
Having obtained his MA in pattern cutting - not design - and with a year at Christian Dior under his belt, Zang is definitely one to watch.
Olivia Bergin

KINDER AGGUGINI GOES FISHINGPhotos: Vladimir Potop
"Gone Fishing," declared Kinder Aggugini on his invitation. "Gone elsewhere," replied the fashion lot, who were noticeably absent - rows of seats remained glaringly unfilled - despite trumping Aggugini up as
the
hottest designer at London Fashion Week not so long ago.
JW Anderson, current darling of the press, you have been warned.
Having set his intentions with his sea-themed invite (mermaid, swordfish, boat and one rather dashing Roy Schneider-ish fisherman) and
Beyond The Sea
soundtrack, he opened with... a gingham dress. And clogs. And tumble-in-the-barnyard hair, although it could possibly have been high-sea-swept.
The rest of it more or less ran (swum?) with the ocean motif, though: culottes (fast becoming a trend here); fisherman workwear-riffing dungarees (there was a cool red one in silk - not exactly practical for hauling in the day's catch, but hey); a fun lilac-hued sou'wester, which could be just the thing for fashion-conscious girls (with a hefty bank balance - Aggugini's clothes don't come cheap) attending next year's festivals; and more of those mermaids and fishes patched onto shirts and dresses, topped off with fisherman caps designed by Stephen Jones. Where Aggugini really wooed, though, was the non-nautical pieces; of particular note were the slick shrunken jackets which came in a hessian sackcloth.
As fun and irreverent as the soundtrack (a foot-tappingly catchy schizophrenic mix of Coldplay, Gwen Stefani, Bobby Darin and Michael Jackson), Aggugini's collection doesn't break any new ground, but will continue to appeal to his crowd of cool girls who want their fashion with a side of kitsch.
- Phong Luu

CLEMENTS RIBEIRO'S PRE-TEEN DREAMPhotos: Getty/ PA
Wes Anderson is rapidly becoming one of the most referenced film directors in fashion. Clements Ribeiro took this summer's cult hit
Moonrise Kingdom
as their starting point for next spring/summer with beguiling results. Dirndl skirts, chiffon pussy cat bow tips, buttoned up shirts and CR's inimitable pattern clashes- all worm with jelly sandals. "Flat shoes change everything" said Inacio backstage. He's not the first designer to make this observation this season (hello, Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham etc). Nor is he alone in wanting to make fashion seem a bit more...anti fashion. "I wanted to call this season's muse a dork, but the PRs wouldn't let me". Inacio, call her what you want - she's a winner.
- Lisa Armstrong

CHEERS BIG EARSPhotos: @THELOVEMAGAZINE/@BrixSmithStart/@LuluGuinness/@buseterim
Disney and fashion don't usually go hand-in-hand, until now that is.
Minnie Mouse has made a triumphant Fashion Week debut with the likes of Richard Nicoll, Giles and Meadham Kirchhoff creating one-off pieces - Minnie Mouse Must Haves - inspired by her rodenty charms.
All of the pieces were displayed to press this morning and will now be auctioned off on eBay in aid of the BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation.
We were promised an appearance by Minnie herself, but it was obviously fleeting as we didn't catch a glimpse. But it was okay because Brix Smith Start had dressed her pug up as Minnie, which is almost as good.
Brix, who presented today's viewing, told us about her long relationship with Disney, from visiting the theme parks as a child to sampling Disney music during her musical career. Who knew?
Now, we must get out of our happy Disney bubble and back onto the mean streets of LFW.
Anyway, if you want to bid on the one off pieces head over to eBay and search Minnie Mouse Must Haves. -
Bibby Sowray

SUZY'S QUIFF UNFAZED BY DELAYSPHOTOS: @TeleFashion

Poor Suzy Menkes. Her flight from New York was delayed by five hours. She practically came straight from Heathrow to the Luxxup launch dinner at Harry's bar last night - via a stop at the salon. That quiff looks fierce. Speaking of which, isn't Averyl Oates's Peter Pilotto dress amazing?
- Lisa Armstrong

WHISTLES PRESENT SPRINGPHOTOS: @TeleFashion

In a sun-filled suite at The Savoy, Whistles proved once again why it is one of the best women's retailers on the high street.
Elegant, printed trousers in sporty shapes fused alongside neon, floral patterned day dresses provide something for those thinking past the season's trends.
Highlights included a grey, wood-grain print motif on silk shirts, and a statement monochrome stripy dress and skirt fashioned out of thick cotton. As the brand's accessories offering gets stronger with each season, cycling enthusiasts will love the luxe leather backpacks in brown and black, and the tote which pleasantly surprises with the addition of two shoulder straps - head to Whistles and you'll be the sharpest Boris Biker in town next summer.
- Olivia Bergin

WARRIORS IN WOOLWORTHS AT SISTER BY SIBLINGPHOTO: @iknowwhatyoudid

Sister by Sibling was the hot ticket this morning - a small collection with a big profile and a loyal fan base.
'Sister by Sibling is where we have fun with knit - everything you see is knitted...' Their six models were transformed into 'Warriors in Woolworths' inspired by 70s punk legends and girl power pioneer, Poly Styrene and X-Ray Spex. Ms Styrene would have looked incredible in the punky black mohair cardi with neon border round the hem, or the show us your knickers drop stitch dress. This was new punk with a decidedly girly edge - flowers embroidered onto hems, giant pompom head dresses, skirts and oversized coats, and showstopper shoes by Sophia Webster who will continue the fun with her sweetie coloured beaded heels this afternoon at her own presentation, also sponsored by Topshop's Newgen. Katie Grand was on hand to style the show and the whole thing was just joyous, upbeat and vibrant - everything London should be.
- Tamsin Blanchard

MEASURED CHIC AT DAKSPHOTOS: AP/Getty/Jane Mingay

Kicking off the second day of London Fashion Week, heritage brand Daks gave a lesson in measured chic with a collection of simple, elegantly cut pieces.
Beginning with a palette of creamy whites before progressing into sandy, earthy tones and later black, it was a showcase of the summer wardrobe we all wish we had.
From a relaxed cream shift complete with translucent voluminous raincoat (just in case you're caught in a summer shower) to a peach sorbet-coloured silk blouse paired with the perfect pair of high-waisted shorts, to a flowing black pocketed evening-appropriate gown, this is what we'd like to wear if we summered in the south of France and spent the balmy days worrying only about our outfits.
As pointed out in the show notes, you can't cater for a British summer without taking into account outerwear. Thus, Daks presented us with lightweight stone-coloured capes, left open but belted over the top.
The label's trademark check was ever present, sparkly and beaded on a spaghetti-strapped evening top, and as a trim or completely covering some of the aforementioned outerwear.
The collection gradually progressed into tough black leathers - skirts, coats, dressed - but always lightweight and somehow summer appropriate, proving leather is officially an all-weather friend.
- Bibby Sowray

STRIKE UP THE BAND
Shopping Mecca, Matches, welcomed the fashion pack to their Marylebone High Street store last night in loud style. Greeting the guests - and stopping the traffic - were the spectacular Hackney Colliery Band performing a medley of contemporary hits on all manner of brass instruments, and some BIG drums...

Meanwhile, inside the store a hoard of incredibly well dressed fashionistas sipped Champagne and damson vodka cocktails served up by those altogethr too good looking boys from The Cellar Society. The centrepiece? The £60,000 scorched silk Giles gown and couture headpiece taking up the entire shop window. 'Don't you worry someone will damage it?' I asked one of Matches' PR team? "No, it's already torn and burnt, it's all part of the look!"
- Belinda White

PHOTO: @MatchesFashion

FELDER FELDER STAY SEXYPHOTOS: Vladimir Potop

Felder Felder stuck to their 'signature silhouette' this season i.e. short and sexy. Suede trouser suits and mini dresses came in numerous colour ways and prints, but ultimately created a sense of deja vu on the runway. The perfect wardrobe for a holiday to Ibiza (San Antonio, not old town - if you know what I mean) was summed up by the duo's collaboration with Baileys. Felder Felder's collection will no doubt inspire many high street stores, but I'm afraid it was rather underwhelming.
- Sophie Warburton

PP WE DON'T LIKE YOUR Q
We would have loved to entertain you with a PPQ show review but sadly the shambolic, over-subscribed seating arrangements which plague the brand every season meant that around 100 show goers were left literally standing out in the cold last night. Ironic that the title of the show was 'Fiasco Tech' - we couldn't have put it better ourselves.
PPQ - there's no need to over-book quite so absurdly, and leave those outside intending to report out on your offering to find out that there's no room at the inn once the show has almost finished...
- Olivia Bergin

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Friday, September 14:

OBSESSED WITH MARCUS LUPFER
"I was obsessed with the word obsession" Lupfer told us at his show, which featured a lifestyle Jetsons-style installation. "What are girls obsessed with? So that's why I came up with the ring pattern." Said pattern is of a large diamond engagement ring which features upon the icy, pastel-hued silk shorts and tops.
The shades of silver, baby blue and faded green provided the futuristic feel and Lupfer sprinkled his signature sequins upon cotton shirts and Peter Pan collars. Fans of his sequin-embellished tops and knots won't be disappointed: a white T-short inscribed with the moto 'breathe' and a pink sweater with his infamous lips drawing were some of the highlights.
- Olivia Bergin

PRETTY KITTY
I've never felt like Clare Short before but all things come to those who wait. Why so many nipples at the Willow show? Kit makes gorgeous underwear and cuts a great jacket. She doesn't need to flash the nip. But isn't her daughter Misia gorgeous? Cool name too.
- Lisa Armstrong

SASS & BIDE TAKE AN ETHEREAL DRIVEPHOTOS: Getty

Sass & Bide's promise of an 'ode to another time' - see obligatory show goer handout wielding poetic (ahem) phrases of inspiration - certainly catapulted expectations into the ethereal realm.
The chiffon tail coats floating behind the garments certainly played with the idea of a very feminine masculinity within luxe, structured tailoring. Suit jackets were treated to deep plunges of the neckline and trousers tiny petal shaped holes, so that the female form was constantly apparent through meticulously cut peep holes.
A palette of Grecian whites and golds soon felt the heat of neon orange, which gradually cooled into blacks and disco ball silvers. Texture, meanwhile, continued the marriage of gender as gentle feathers were offset against heavier shoulder detailing or metallic ribbing across backs.
The only show gripe? Using the Drive soundtrack transported the spectacle from otherwordly right back down to the catalogue of designers using Ryan Gosling's pouting tunes for their show ambience. With big name models touting the Australian duo's tailoring, they could have continued along more playful lines of the 'I Want Candy' pop ditty blaring out beforehand.
- Alice Newbold

DREAM A LITTLE DREAM OF EMILIA WICKSTEADPHOTO: @BritishVogue

Oh to be a Wickstead girl; smooth-skinned, lightly tanned, feminine and flawless.
The New Zealand born designer has carved out her own niche here in this privileged corner of Belgravia as the Lily Pulitzer of our times. She knows her wealthy, elegant woman and her world and she caters to them every season with luxurious collections inspired by couture of the 1950s.
For spring/summer 2013 she hasn't strayed from that successful pattern, this time looking back to the likes of American women such as Babe Paley, CZ Guest - Truman Capote's 'society swans'.
The collection, made entirely of cotton and silk and in a colour palette that included lime green, raspberry, caramel and lots of debutante-white, boasted classic Wickstead shapes - slim cropped trousers, gloriously full skirts, dresses that pouffed or skimmed the body, all managing to be grand and simple at the same time.
For the first time she printed on textured fabrics - posh seersuckers if you will - with painterly checks and geometric embellished splodges reminiscent of 1950s wallpaper.
Another first was shorts both 'micro' worn under full-length cocktail skirts and the longer 'matador', styled with peplum tops.
Wickstead summons up a gorgeous, romantic, privileged world where women are ladies and men (we imagine) are gentlemen. It's probably not the world most of us belong to but that's not the point of fashion is it and we can dream.
- Kate Finnigan

LFW IS ALL ABOUT THE RUBBER SHOE
First Christopher Ciccone, now Melissa - those cobblernators of all things rubber shoeish - have found a slot on the London Fashion Week schedule. The Brazilian footwear brand found an affinity with fellow national Inacio Ribeiro, one half of desin duo Clements Ribeiro, and have designed a range of flat, strappy sandals which remind this ageing blogger of a pair she wore to school in the Seventies. Their muse for the range? One Suzy Bishop, the dreamy leading lady (well, child) of Wes Anderson's Moonrise Kingdom.
"Her stylish mod wardrobe combines ultra-cute retro dresses, nerdy glasses with a love for Francoise Hardy music. Complementing the kitsch, nerdy elegance Melissa adds energy, intrigue and humour to the collection, to the approval of Suzy herself."
Couldn't agree more. You can catch the Clements show in all its glory her tomorrow, but meanwhile, here's a sneaky peek at said sandals...
- Belinda White

A GEOMETRIC BONANZA AT JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZAPHOTOS: Vladimir Potop

Jean-Pierre Braganza collaborated with Ukrainian 'ethno-modern' artist Zinaida Lihacheva - who he now considers his muse - for his latest collection, creating prints based on her paintings.
The bulk of the collection took inspiration from architectural shapes, fusing geometric panelling with shard-like folds and sliced tailoring. Lihacheva's prints peppered dress and tailored trousers adding textures to Braganza's strict, simple shapes.
Predominantly black and white with flashes of aqua, cerulean and red, it was simple but chic with just the right amount of interest too keep the (unusually long) show interesting.
More relaxed shapes were gradually introduced - a stretch jersey pencil skirt under a longer-length blazer, cocktail dresses with sparkly-beaded 'shard' detail, tailored trousers became looser and paired with Braganza's take on a sleeveless biker jacket, all paired with to-die-for Kirkwood shoes.
- Bibby Sowray

FANCY PLAIT!
Bored of the same old ponytail? Give this twisty extravaganza from Jean-Pierre Braganza a go - we dare you to try...

EUDON'S SPORTS CHIC SCORES HIGHLY
With the bigwigs from Vogue, Elle, Grazia, InStyle - and of course the Daily Telegraph - littered amongst the front row, Eudon Choi had a lot to live up to. And he didn't disappoint. Having been hailed as one to watch for the season Choi's sportswear aesthetic stepped up another level yet again.
Oversized tops - which somehow seemed to be perfect in their proportion - were teamed with 'dangerous' (his words) wrap skirts with popper closures. Chunky aertex appeared delicate alongside patent leather and perforated fabrics, while black tinsel came across as oh-so-chic.
The collection demonstrated Choi's faultless tailoring skills but also showcased his play with texture and proportion. A master class in sportswear, with a dabbling in eveningwear, the pieces were aimed at the modern, minimalist dresser. When show notes say "Celine but better, and more affordable", I think London might be on to a winner with Eudon.
Sophie Warburton

FEMME FATALE PLAYS MUSE FOR KIT WILLOW
Although designer Kit Willow wanted to "reinterpret lingerie as outerwear and explore the seduction of the fetish femme" in her collection, underwear was more conspicuous by its absence in this afternoon's show. Models floated down the runway in the sheerest of silks - delicate flowing dresses, which made up the majority of the collection, contrasted with slim leather trousers. With the exception of a dash of orange here or some baby blue there, colours were mostly beige or nude - almost as muted as the standard fashion show applause at the end of the show.
Laura Hubbert

WHO WEARS SHORT SHORTS?
Madonna's brother, err we mean Christopher Ciccone, presents some branded pants and vests complete with socks and trainers (bringing back memories of school PE lessons anyone?), and some equally as questionable pool-side foot attire.

KRYSTOF'S BIG FAT GREEK FASHION SHOW
Inspired by Elizabeth Taylor as Helen of Troy, Krystof Strozyna's SS13 collection was an offering of perfectly tailored dresses in a lipstick palette.
Greek columns dictated the silhouette with figure skimming shirt dressed cut to the knee leading to shocking pink floor sweepers with cut out panels that would make Cheryl (a Krystof fan) proud!
Architectural elements featured heavily with a linear print placed on silk shirts and palazzo trousers, which served to break the strict palette of coral, lilac and white. Necklines echoed the arch of bridges, and sleeves that of a column.
Carefully placed draping and fine pleats on cocktail dresses created soft curves, a welcome shift from the hard graphic lines of the autumn/winter collection.
Highlights included a sculptural long length pencil skirt with rear peplum (replum?!) worn with an ultra sheer shirt it said lady-like yet sultry. We think Elizabeth would be proud!
Frankie Graddon

NADINE COYLE'S A
LOVE
FASHION MACHINE
Girls Aloud's long-legged pop princess has called upon those in the hair and makeup business for her trip to tonight's PPQ show. Let's hope they let her on the front row.

WILLOW KEEPS THE FASHION PACK IN THE DARK

CARA
LARKS
SHARKS AROUND
We snapped model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne at the Dominic Jones presentation. Seems she was rather taken with the jaws-esque purse. Something else for her to erm, get her teeth into.

NIELSEN NAILS IT
Structure was the name of the game at Corrie Nielsen. While one model strutted down the runway in an ensemble that can only be described as a black square, the rest of the collection cut a sombre palette and housed pieces of a more feminine nature.
Photos: Vladimir Potop

MARIA GOES MODERN
As the coiffed 'It' girls of yesteryear took their seats on the front row at Maria Grachvogel, we were expecting more of the same from the Chelsea woman's favourite dressmaker. Opening looks of an organza trouser suit - layered over a swimming costume - and a gown with sheer panels were a step away from the designer's usual guise (and a welcome one at that).
Hair and makeup gave the collection a modern and more youthful twist, opening Grachvogel's client base to a wider audience. The usual, swirly prints were there, although the standout pieces were those that showed off her clever pattern cutting (that skimmed model figures). Hero looks included the low V-neck jump suit, the yellow origami sleeve gown (a must have for the Duchess) and the white culottes with an oversized shirt.
Sophie Warburton

TOP MODELS CONFIRMED FOR SASS & BIDE SHOW
Ahead of today's 6pm show, Sass & Bide have confirmed Jourdan Dunn and Cara Delevingne will be acting as the most attractive clothes horses for the spring/summer collection. Oh and Kelly Roland will be on the front row, apparently.

SPORTS CHIC AT ZOË JORDAN
Seemingly inspired by the recent Olympics (Maybe that explains why Jake Humphrey from BBC sport was sitting front row?!), Zoë Jordan stuck firmly to sports luxe for spring /summer 2013.
Crop tops, boxing shorts, t-shirt dresses, the odd metallic-spun tweed piece, varsity jackets (yes, they live on for another season!) and spangly Harem pants were all effortlessly relaxed and in unashamedly girlie shades - sugary pink, tangy orange and ruby red.
This season Zoë also debuted footwear - a solid wedge with flashes of vibrant colour.
We'd take wearing this sporty gear over a dowdy tracksuit any day - it would certainly make a workout a whole lot more fun.
Bibby Sowray. Photos: Getty/ PA

CHIFFON FRILLS AND SWIMSUIT THRILLS AT JULIEN MACDONALD
"Island life" was the tagline of Julien Macdonald's spring/summer 2013 collection of 28 gowns and cosies, which were inspired and named after tropical hotspots. No wonder Fiji water was the H²0 of choice at the one-on-one presentation at his newish showroom on Burlington Street (Macdonald has been there for nearly two years).
So, we had the "Honolulu", a textbook Macdonald knock-'em-dead gold sequinned one-shouldered sheath, and the "Bora Bora", a flippy, fringed Josephine Bakerish red dress.
"What about one for Aberystwyth?" asked a wisecracking colleague, to horrified looks from Macdonald. "She's the girl who goes to all these incredible parties and wants to make an entrance," he replied.
Subtext: she can't be afraid of flashing her - er, how shall we put it? - "fandango"; splits were so thigh-revealing that even Angelina Jolie would probably blush. Then again, Macdonald did say that Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct was his muse for this collection.
All the pieces, some showcasing rather beautiful jewelled necklines, were handmade here by the 40 or so seamstresses beavering away in his Burlington Street studio; before that, his line was manufactured in Italy.
"I wanted to restore the craftsmanship to the UK. It's a dying form and I want to support the incredible people who work in manufacturing." Maybe he should design a dress named London in their honour.
Phong Luu

HEALTH HAZARD?

TOUGH TATS
While blurry iPhone pics made Fyodor Golan's blue ink chin-adornments look like goatees, up close one can appreciate the erm, steady hands which went into bringing them to life. If it was a toss-up between this and mascara, sorry - but mascara would win every time.
Photos: Getty

FLORAL FANCIES AT CAROLINE CHARLESPhotos: Vladimir Potop

FYODOR GOLAN'S CONTEMPORARY LADY
The Fyodor Golan boys presented us with an A4 page full of notes explaining the inspiration behind their S/S13 show (a Victorian era girl enslaved by a Native American tribe, in case you're interested), but frankly, they didn't need to as the clothes spoke for themselves.
Starting with a rich cobalt blue before adding in yellow and white, the theme was ladylike, but in the most contemporary way.Bold frills and intricate digital prints had a bit of the McQueen about them, while structured pencil skirts and detailed embroidery progressed into full-on flowing gowns in earthy tones and eye-catching digital prints - with one particularly spectacular fuschia-frilled dress stealing the show.
Bibby Sowray

MAD ABOUT THE BOY
London Fashion Week design star JW Anderson's purse-friendly collection for Topshop has struck a chord with all fashionstas - stock is depleting at a rate of knots on the retailer's website, while those who queued outside the Oxford Street flagship smashed n'n grabbed their way through the rails.

ANTONI & ALISON TURN 25 IN STYLE
Antoni & Alison, London's artiest designer duo, celebrated their 25th anniversary in their own conceptual way with 'hand rendered art works, drawn and painted with our own hands.' The series of dresses were the result of four days locked away, listening to music they'd never listened too before (brass bands!). They each did their own thing, using every colour they own, and then collaged the work together at the end. It was all about looking forward to 'the new'. As playful as ever, the collection was a result of experiments with ink drawings, spray can gestures, charcoal smudges, collage and black felt tip pen. Anyone would think they'd gone to art college!
Tamsin Blanchard. Photos: Getty.

...AND THEY'RE OFF!
First show of the day, Antoni & Alison, started a bit late but hey ho. We loved the musical men in red the most...

ROCKING OUT WITH RAY-BAN
Last night LFW opened in true British style... With a rock 'n' roll concert. Primal Scream and Sonic Youth's Kim Gordon took to the stage to celebrate 75 years of Ray-Ban. Together with Dazed & Confused magazine Ray-Ban took over the Islington Assembly Hall and got the fashion crowd dancing away. The VIP balcony was looking dangerously overcrowed as Harry Styles, Luella, Pam Hogg, Tali Lennox and plenty more danced away until midnight.
Aurelia Donaldson

LONDON GOES 'GREEN'
LFW designers Antonio Berardi, Jonathan Saunders, Alice Temperley, Marios Schwab, Stephen Jones and Roksanda Ilincic took a break from their studios last night and attended a cocktail reception to celebrate the launch of the 'Green Cut'. An initiative from The Green Carpet Challenge® co-founders Livia Firth and Lucy Siegle (in collaboration with American Express), the project brings together the British Fashion Council and the British Film Institute for the first time, by pairing eight seminal fashion designers with eight iconic British films to raise awareness of a sustainable approach to fashion design.

MINNIE MOUSE IS IN THE HOUSE
Accessories designer Lulu Guinness is just one of many British designers to have created a special piece inspired by Minnie Mouse which will be auctioned off in aid of the BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation during London Fashion Week.
Find out more

MADONNA'S BROTHER
THE CICCONE COLLECTION IS COMING
Just to remind you, Madonna's brother, Christopher Ciccone,
is revealing his foray into the world of rubber boots today
. The Ciccone Collection will have its debut at LFW, and Christopher, 51, has been busy adding the final touches, while keeping us updated with fun nuggets such as this:

KATE NASH'S GIG
In the run-up to her third album, Brit Award-winning and all-round cool girl Kate Nash will be performing live at London Fashion Week. Which show? It's a surprise - all we know is that she will appear at an on-schedule catwalk show later today. Hopefully she'll
tweet about it
?
L K-J

THE LONDON DRESS
French Connection have created a limited edition 'London Dress' to celebrate LFW, by layering black lace over purple silk in a feminine silhouette. We love it, and we're pretty sure you'll need to be quick to grab it: the dress will be hitting stores nationwide and online today for just £40.
L K-J

NAILS AT THE READY...
You may not have blagged front-row seats or backstage passes, but that doesn't mean you can't
look
like you have. Throughout Fashion Week, John Lewis will be offering bespoke FROW (Front Row) manicures by
Leighton Denny
. Head down to John Lewis Oxford Street, Stratford City or Peter Jones for a coat of polish from the brand's new A/W range, free with a purchase of any Leighton Denny product.
L K-J

HENRY HOLLAND POPS UP
In collaboration with House of Holland, eBay.co.uk has launched its very first designer pop up shop. Until September 18 you can browse Henry Holland's specially curated A/W 12 collection and recieve a free pair of his polka-dot tights with every purchase. "It's an all-in-one fashion opportunity with the best of both seasons," says Fashion Forward designer Henry, as you can watch the House of Holland S/S 13 catwalk show on eBay's very own fashion blog (who knew?)
Style Collective
on the 15th September at 6pm.
Lauren Kelly-Jones