Thanks. Tbh, it wouldn't be any less accurate than me tracing...cause it still have to cut it out again on the line. The only things I can't cut out are the frames and I did it with nailing holes along the line through contractor paper, then cutting it out.

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

I want to eliminate the motorwell and hook a jack plate directly to the transom. I was thinking of bringing the 2x6 transom cross member up to the top, but now I’m wondering if the transom knee should just go all the way up...my concern is the strength of the transom. Should I thicken it as well or should the double ply be enough to handle the jackplate? Should the center 2x6 be maintained?

I can post some drawings tomorrow if that would help illustrate my point

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

Drawings or sketches will help. Some here can offer help. Food for thought: making the transom knee thicker like 4 plies of plywood instead of a typical 3 plies doesn't add much strength but making each leg deeper like 4 or 5 inches versus per plan 3 inches will make it stronger without much added weight. The cross brace should probably stay per plan size and in the plan location, and vertical braces off the same dimensions at each end will help stiffen the transom.

Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

PeterG wrote:Drawings or sketches will help. Some here can offer help. Food for thought: making the transom knee thicker like 4 plies of plywood instead of a typical 3 plies doesn't add much strength but making each leg deeper like 4 or 5 inches versus per plan 3 inches will make it stronger without much added weight. The cross brace should probably stay per plan size and in the plan location, and vertical braces off the same dimensions at each end will help stiffen the transom.

I'm not a structural engineer, but I think I'll leave it as planned and just board off the top without the . I think the jack plate distributes the pressure in the same area over a larger area than the motor clamps would anyways. The area in front of the motor won't be used much anyways. I'd put a picture of th plans up, buy I'm not sure if Glen L would frown on that.

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

One thing to consider is that a jack plate will move the weight of the outboard further aft maybe 8-10" (or more?) and could upset the balance of the boat depending on how heavy your motor ends up being.

Not quite sure what you're asking but when working with epoxy at lower temperatures are the pot life and cure time will be longer. The pot life or working time shouldn't be a problem for gluing up your stem at 40 degrees. You can just mix it and apply it but give it longer time to cure before handling it. Cooling the epoxy after you mix it is a common trick to extend pot life or working time when working at higher temperatures. Most epoxies don't do well below 40 degrees so beware of that.

Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

PeterG wrote:Not quite sure what you're asking but when working with epoxy at lower temperatures are the pot life and cure time will be longer. The pot life or working time shouldn't be a problem for gluing up your stem at 40 degrees. You can just mix it and apply it but give it longer time to cure before handling it. Cooling the epoxy after you mix it is a common trick to extend pot life or working time when working at higher temperatures. Most epoxies don't do well below 40 degrees so beware of that.

By workable, for the stem, I meant handling to cut to proper sizing. I left them a bit over the line so I could laminate them and then cut them on the bandsaw at one time. Thanks. I’ve heard of people putting the epoxy in the freezer and keeping it for a couple of days.

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13

I usually just keep the mixing cup sitting around and when the leftovers are cured then I know whatever I have glued has cured also. Your fingernail will not be able to dent fully cured epoxy. You probably know this but if you keep your epoxy in the house where it's warmer then it will be easier to mix up. If it's too cold it can be like molasses.

hoodman wrote:I usually just keep the mixing cup sitting around and when the leftovers are cured then I know whatever I have glued has cured also. Your fingernail will not be able to dent fully cured epoxy. You probably know this but if you keep your epoxy in the house where it's warmer then it will be easier to mix up. If it's too cold it can be like molasses.

As my father says, "I've forgotten more than I've known, so its good to be reminded anyways." Thanks

Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13