They say it prevents fire scale, acts as a flux and you don't need
pickle to clean up after soldering, just warm water.

I'm wondering - what do you all think of this? Has anyone tried it
yet?

I have no affiliation with the company- just curious and not too
adventurous with trying new products since budget doesn't allow, at
this stage. But it would seem to be a great thing - - you could get
rid of pickle AND flux with this.

I looked at the page - I haven't tried the product, though. Myimpression is two-fold: It's REALLY expensive, and it's looks like alot of trouble - warm the piece, spray (spray?) it, etc. I say Spray?because that spray is going all over the place, day after day,coating your whole bench, or you will need a special place, like weneed another special place. I'm sure it works, or they wouldn't beselling it, and you might just try an ounce.

I looked up the MSDS and there are two ingredients listed on it byCAS number. A quick search on the web tells me that 13-0386-2 isdiboron trioxide and that 77-6438-2 doesn't exist. So either theydon't want to tell us what is really in it or they've made a mistake.

Having said all that, I haven't actually used any just thought youmight want to know about that detail.

i have tried firescoff and in my opinion 3M's radial bristle discswork far better, faster, and cheaper in the long run than theproduct. Although if you like a spray on product, than it may be thething for you. Firescoff has few advantages over the traditionalboric acid/alcohol dip or Cupronil ( a much overlooked product in myopinion) in that it is premixed, and doesn't burn off as fast in mytests as does boric,etc..but the trick with soldering is hit andrun...so extended periods of soldering, unless you are going throughan assembly requiring degrees of solder from hard to easy, seemmoot.BUT, you must apply the product to heated metal,( and while itsays it can protect stones already set, i wouldn't trust MuffyPurebred's platinum and Sapphire heirloom pendant to the stuff),andi tried granulation without a coating of copper basedglue-(essentially) firescoff didn't work in that application forme,And while the company touts "removing dangerous pickling acidsfrom the workbench", the composition of firescoff seems moredangerous than the pickle- which i don't keep on my workbench!. AlsoI have found 80/20 (reticulation silver) still requires strippingstrength pickle if there is a lot of texture or intricate,constructed, or pierced surfaces to remove scale and/or residue leftfrom the firescoff..all-in-all I believe the 3M 's radial bristlediscs are superior as they get into every crevice, rise and fall inyour work piece, and require a simple burst of air to remove anyclinging micro-particles that can be refined in the end. Withfirescoff one needs to install a trap to catch those traces of metalfor refining which, with the precious metals market as it is, isbecoming more a concern as the cost of our materials rises, and theirown MSDS warns against the product reaching a waterway, overspray onyour bench and other hazards, that i personally don't want to have todeal with..and in some cases pickling is still necessary. So I can'trecommend it over traditional products yet, as there are more stepsinvolved, making my art,craft and science take more time thannecessary..but i urge you to try it for yourself.

I have tried a sample bottle of it. It is an interesting material. Iwas very pleased with its abilities to act as a fire scale preventerand heat shield. It did not completely dissolve in warm water butwhat little residue was left went away totally rapidly in pickle. Itworks better than prips or stop-ox for the protection of the work.It is not as good a flux as a paste flux like handy flux. It did agreat job of protecting the surface finish on hard to protectsurfaces like copper and sterling. The spray pattern from the bottleis a little too broad and I felt like a too much of it was wasted. Itis not cheap but I will definitely keep some around for certainsoldering operations. I would recommend that everyone who soldersshould at least try it, I think it is a good tool to add to the kit.

I looked up the MSDS and there are two ingredients listed on it by
CAS number. A quick search on the web tells me that 13-0386-2 is
diboron trioxide and that 77-6438-2 doesn't exist. So either they
don't want to tell us what is really in it or they've made a
mistake.

diboron trioxide is the formal name for boric acid the other numberschemistry is probably considered proprietary information