Slides in this set

Slide 1

Slide 2

2.1 WavesInformation;· Created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea, creating friction, the energy is transferred which creates the waves· Strong wind -> greater friction -> powerful and higher wavesThe effect that a wave has depends on its height;· The wave height is affected by the wind speed and fetch· A high wind speed and long fetch= high wavesWaves move across open ocean in a circular motion as an ocean swell;· As waves approach the shore they break, the friction with the sea bed slows the wave and makes their motion more elliptical, the crest of the wave rises up and then collapses· Waves coming onto the beach= swash· Waves going back to sea= backwash…read more

Slide 3

2.1 Constructive waves· Build up the beach· Have a long wavelength· Low frequency (6-8 p/m)· Long and shallow= more elliptical profile· Swash is absorbed due to the low levels of energy· Sediment thrown up by the breaking waves accumulates in ridges of `berms'· Backwash has little power to move sediment back out to sea…read more

Slide 4

2.1Destructive waves `plunging waves'· High and steep· More of a circular cross profile· High frequency (10-14 waves p/m)· Wavelengths are shorter· Wave breaks at a considerable height, creating a large amount of energy which cannot be easily absorbed by the beach· Powerful waves run up the beach, the strong backwash allows sediment to move back down the beach. And eventually to sea…read more

Slide 6

2.1 Tides· A tide is the alternative rise and fall of the level of the sea· Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun· Tides affect the position at which waves break on the beach· The area of land between high and low tide is where landforms are created and destroyed· Tide levels are predictable, and can be published· High tides + strong winds, large waves and heavy rainfall= catastrophic events…read more