Nature's always near on Hutchinson Island

Villa Nina on North Hutchinson Island is a captivating study in contrasts. Hiding behind a modest little white picket fence, it's reached by a crushed shell-gravel-sand drive leading off A1A to a surprise mini-mansion of a thoroughly modern house.

Its neighbors on the horizon are high-rise condominiums soaring out of the sand, seemingly ages away in another world from the eight acres of Florida nature embracing the Villa. Behind the house is the Indian River, beyond a rolling meadow marching to Wildcat Cove, a protected manatee refuge, and Jack Island State Preserve laced with watery trails for exploring in the villa's kayak and canoe, or their little paddle boat complete with canopy.

Across A1A, reached by a nature trail flanked by a couple of gopher tortoise nests, is the endless stretch of oceanfront beach, usually deserted except during egg-dropping season for the sea turtles.

Innkeeper Nina Rappaport will point out the nests and happily bring out her photo album showing the villa's wild side: weasels in the pool, a meandering wildcat, a raccoon or two.

An enthusiastic former teacher, she's responsible for the placards found in front of trees and plants. The first one greeted me as I drove past the picket fence.

It was in front of a healthy stand of sea grape and explained the Greek origins of the word, the geographic distribution and the fact that the fruit is the source of the famous jelly.

Other not-so-little touches by Nina and husband Glenn include the several little fountains found around the house and the various bird feeders strategically located to please their winged friends. You can do your own bird-watching in the comfort of a lounge chair, walking nearby nature trails or using one of the inn's bikes.

The Rappaports can direct you to the Fort Pierce Inlet State Park and the place where two-legged overachievers trained for the Navy's underwater demolition teams, the Seal Museum with an interesting collection of nautical gear and displays of the incredibly challenging training routines. You can do your own diving, with snorkel or scuba gear, out to the 1715 Urca de Lima archaeological wreck.

For more civilized sightseeing, pick up one of the maps the Rappaports have made, directing guests to Vero Beach to the north and the surprising developments in Fort Pierce to the south.

Vero Beach has a wealth of well-known restaurants and watering holes including a personal favorite, Ocean Grill on the water at Sexton Plaza.

And Fort Pierce, planning for its centennial celebration in 200l, has been working hard to improve its image. Mangrove Mattie's and the Tiki Restaurant at the City Marina, where there are 231 slips and a fine fleet of charter boats for sportfishing near and far, are easy to recommend. On Indian River Drive is the Manatee Observation and Education Center.

Next month Nina and Glenn will celebrate their fifth anniversary as innkeepers, but their pride and joy gives every indication of having been open only a few days, so perfect is the condition of the three bright, airy rooms and suite, each with private bath, private outdoor entrance, TV with HBO and Cinemax, a profusion of pillows, queen or king size bed, individual temperature control. Complimentary continental breakfast is served in your room with fresh fruits and freshly brewed coffee, a variety of cereals and some kind of add-on fresh out of the oven.

Later in the day, you might want to take advantage of the villa's barbecue, yours for the asking along with complimentary laundry facilities.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: From Interstate I-95 take Exit 65, State Road 70, east to Fort Pierce and U.S. 1, going north 3.2 miles to the turnoff for State Road A1A, where you go north 1.3 miles to the inn on the left (west) side of the road.

Rates: Room rates range from $105 to $175, and include complimentary continental breakfast. The inn is smoke free inside and out, and pets are not allowed.