Getting my first Cub ready to go and was wondering if the wheel weights are really helpful and needed or not. Will mainly use my Cub for cultivation for right now. I have heard both Tess and no. What is your opinion and why/why not? Thanks.

Got a guy who has a set reasonably priced, but he's 3hrs away & really need to spend that money on a Carb rebuild and a few sweeps. Hopefully some come available closer and cheaper. The closer I may get, but I doubt they'll be cheaper. Only wants $90 for the pair.

Not much of a deal at that price if they are three hours away. Rear weights go for $80 to $100 a pair, but can be found at times for as low as $60 to $70 if somebody wants them gone, and front weights around $100 to $125 a pair. Keep an eye on Craigslist, they show up there now and then. Of course location is everything.

It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something.- Franklin D. Roosevelt -

I vote yes. Get front and rear weights when they are locally available. Or make arrangements for a set to be delivered at a near by Cub fest.

For front weights, keep an eye out for cast iron weights off of 12 inch garden tractors rears. Weights will fit but not have the IH logo.

Living in Ozark hill county, I have rear and front weights, an additional 40 lbs hung under the bolster, mounted flail mower, and a chubby operator. Dry conditions, that's normally enough weight on the tractor to tow a heavy duty two wheeled work trailer with fencing or logging equipment. When it the ground, clay and gravel, gets a bit wet or slick, insufficient traction.

I have rear weights for the yellow/white cub(took them off right on the trailer)---I want to run light as possible in the gardens so as to not pack the ground! I pull 2 row pull type corn planter,(video on You-Tube of it ,--also several other cub videos on there) to plant the chicken corn with no traction problems! the 3-pt on the other imps add enough weight to keep going! --even pulled my home made tater digger without added weight in this black ground, ---BUT I do not have enough power to plow---Traction yes power no!I call weights "feels good iron", LOL!!!---If you dont mind packing the ground or are not going to garden, ---then go for the weights!!!--they might help a little, but will use a lot of your limited available hp to get moving! thanks; sonny

Thanks for all the info. Got another guy willing to do a trade for a set of rears and a hood to replace mine which has the dreaded alternator cowlick modification. Lol. 1'x1' hole chopped on the right side. Another question......why are the front weights just as high, or most of the tie HIGHER than the rears? Figured they would be cheaper. And on the A weights being interchangeable, is that just A's, or the whole super A line?

dbboss wrote:Thanks for all the info. Got another guy willing to do a trade for a set of rears and a hood to replace mine which has the dreaded alternator cowlick modification. Lol. 1'x1' hole chopped on the right side. Another question......why are the front weights just as high, or most of the tie HIGHER than the rears? Figured they would be cheaper. And on the A weights being interchangeable, is that just A's, or the whole super A line?

The rear weights were used much more than fronts for general farming, so many more were purchased new from the dealers back in the day. Not sure if the front weights were manufactured when the Cubs were first produced, but they are/were used interchangeably as rear weights on the Cub Cadets when they came out in the early '60's. The garden tractor pullers used them a lot and have taken them off the market.

Additionally, the A weights carried thru to include the 140's, putting that supply out there available for Cubs. All told, there is a large supply of rear weights out there on the market. Many more than fronts.

Denny Clayton wrote:Additionally, the A weights carried thru to include the 140's, putting that supply out there available for Cubs. All told, there is a large supply of rear weights out there on the market. Many more than fronts.

And since those weights don't wear out like a Cub will, there are more and more all the time.

I recently replaced my "ate up" rims from years of calcium chloride rust. I decided to run just the weights without liquid. I just recently did some SERIOUS plowing without any tire slippage at all. In my case, I dont need the liquid ballast...the weights are enough, but if you are going to be doing any kind of ground engagement work other than light cultivation, you need some sort of wheel weight.viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77073&start=15