No comments, just photos of what people do at two bolted rim anchors for single-pitch Top-rope routes at one location. You will see rope, cord, webbing, sewn slings, without and with equalization static or dynamic, with and without rub on the rocks; one case of natural, and one of face rings. Collection is increasing and irregularly updated.

Can I ask a stupid question? I've only come across anchors like this once, and while the final anchor was solid, the process was nothing short of comical. Complete with rapping off trees and ropes and anchors everywhere. And then there was cleaning the thing... I must of walked up and down more times than I climbed it.

So what's the 'standard' procedure for a toprope anchor that is over an edge? Is there one?

Edit: Oh and there were no rap rings, so no, I wasn't going to rap off just the hangers...

Call me a noob, but I have no experience setting up top rope anchors. Quite a few of these look like if one of the bolts were to pull out, they'd shock load the other one or fail outright. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of using 2?

No comments, just photos of what people do at two bolted rim anchors for single-pitch Top-rope routes at one location. You will see rope, cord, webbing, sewn slings, without and with equalization static or dynamic, with and without rub on the rocks; one case of natural, and one of face rings. Collection is increasing and irregularly updated.

Can I ask a stupid question? I've only come across anchors like this once, and while the final anchor was solid, the process was nothing short of comical. Complete with rapping off trees and ropes and anchors everywhere. And then there was cleaning the thing... I must of walked up and down more times than I climbed it.

So what's the 'standard' procedure for a toprope anchor that is over an edge? Is there one?

Edit: Oh and there were no rap rings, so no, I wasn't going to rap off just the hangers...

In most of the routes in the Heart Creek crags, the anchor is set well below the top of the cliff. Most ropes are 60 meters, so the bolts have to be less than 30 meters high, even though the cliff is 40-50 meters to the top. There is no walk-off, it's all mountain above.

So the only way to get to those anchors is to lead from the bottom. The only way to clean them is to climb, clean, and rap.

I am missing your point...the first anchor pictured looks like a simple "sliding X" configuration. The second looks like a "quad." Both are completely standard...

Edit: On second glance, it looks like you are also concerned about shock loading in each of these situations. While none should fail outright if one of the bolts was to become compromised, "limiter" knots on the first case wouldn't be a bad idea. The quad has limiter knots by design, which would reduce the shock load in the case of bolt failure.

Call me a noob, but I have no experience setting up top rope anchors. Quite a few of these look like if one of the bolts were to pull out, they'd shock load the other one or fail outright. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of using 2?

I was pleasantly surprised that, of the few I looking through, I didn't see anything really fucked up.

Can I ask a stupid question? I've only come across anchors like this once, and while the final anchor was solid, the process was nothing short of comical. Complete with rapping off trees and ropes and anchors everywhere. And then there was cleaning the thing... I must of walked up and down more times than I climbed it.

So what's the 'standard' procedure for a toprope anchor that is over an edge? Is there one?

Edit: Oh and there were no rap rings, so no, I wasn't going to rap off just the hangers...

Yes, there is a standard procedure. In a nutshell...

Bring a length of static rope and a Gri-gri with you to the crag. Fix the rope to a BFT, and then rap over the edge with the Gri-gri. Set up your anchor and then use the Gri-gri to ascend the rope back to the top. Make sure you have a knot in the rope below you to back up the Gri-gri.

Can I ask a stupid question? I've only come across anchors like this once, and while the final anchor was solid, the process was nothing short of comical. Complete with rapping off trees and ropes and anchors everywhere. And then there was cleaning the thing... I must of walked up and down more times than I climbed it.

So what's the 'standard' procedure for a toprope anchor that is over an edge? Is there one?

As in another reply, face anchors are for lead routes, meaning starting from the bottom with no rope until the leader puts it in something. That route can be led with gear, so does have rappel rings mounted on the face. Two quick-draws will do for such anchors. It is usually done as top-rope, because the anchors can be reached by laying on one's belly, so the rigging is usually what TR climbers carry.

the first anchor pictured looks like a simple "sliding X" configuration. The second looks like a "quad."

Seeing the crossing that makes a Sliding X is difficult sometimes; but that is probably correct there. An Equalette and a Quadralette are noticed by seeing the two stop-knots instead of a single larger Cordelette knot. That one is short, so that it works at numerous anchors at this place, and is easily extended with pairs of something added. That one is used as 3/1, which is most common at that location. The post about various ways to set the belay carabiners was mostly flamed.

Good eye. The upper carabiner is "cross-loaded", meaning sideways, not longways. Each carabiner has a strength rating for that, and is not as good as you want. That happens rather commonly when such a rig is used for rappelling, as is common at that route, which is why it is included in the gallery for that route. I switched it around after taking the photo.

The red cord is a single loop (see single Fisherman's knot) with a Cordelette knot. The yellow webbing is on its own carabiner, because it is either a back-up line, or a tie-in and maybe for starting the rappel. Using a third back-up line is fairly common at that location, and is seen at other galleries.

I was pleasantly surprised that, of the few I looking through, I didn't see anything really fucked up.

That is because they are not included in the galleries. I've done some re-rigging, too, usually accepted cheerfully as a lesson. There is, however, a collection for "death triangle", and putting webbing through the hanger eye. The former includes a Boy Scout leader's rigging; the latter includes a college outdoor program leader, see Att'd. What made me laugh there was the trouble to rig a back-up and cover for the edge, then neglect something as simple as a carabiner at the hangers. I spoke with him, and he said that was how they did it where he climbed.

I've not seen anything that was going to kill anyone, and know of no such accident at that location, but do support the principles of safety suggested by John Long et alia.