Sydney: a very Australian Christmas

It's a surreal experience, walking into the warm sea and hearing shouts of "Happy Christmas!" For me, Christmas means snow – or, at least, a crisp frost – and a big open fire. But the heat here comes from the sun, and it's prawns, not chestnuts, that are roasted – on an open barbie. On Bondi Beach, it looked like any other day in paradise.

Then I saw something sparkle in the distance. Feeling like one of the Three Kings, I headed across the sand towards the light, bearing not frankincense but Factor 50. There was no manger, of course; just the Bondi lifeguard station. But they had planted a (fake) Christmas tree in the sand and decked it with baubles, ribbons and bows.

Since my son, Tom, moved to Sydney, six years ago, I'd been back and forth many times. First, for his wedding to Fran and then to help with the babies – Ruby, now five, and Ivy, three – but I had never been Down Under for Christmas.

"It won't be the same," friends said.That was obvious when I landed in Sydney. The only sign that it was the week before Christmas was my son at Arrivals wearing a Santa's hat. Everywhere banners announced Summer in the City and the Sydney Festival. And the highest temperatures and warmest seas of the year meant that everyone was in a holiday mood.

In Britain, I'd left town centres weighed down with lights and garlanded trees, but I only saw one giant Christmas tree, and that was in Sydney's CBD (central business district). For the truth is that in the hot sunshine, glitter and fairy lights look out of place so very few Australians put up Christmas decorations. One exception is Avoca Street, in Bondi, a cul-de-sac of pretty, traditional homes where every house shimmers with Father Christmases, reindeer on the roof and robins in the trees. Otherwise, New Year's Eve is as big a celebration as Christmas and, close behind, Australia Day (January 26), which is a national holiday and a huge family occasion.

However, at my son's home, it was Christmas as usual, with a tree, carols and, with my granddaughter Ruby celebrating her birthday on Christmas Eve, a party. On Christmas morning, we were woken by the laughter of a kookaburra in the garden and the rustling of present wrappings. And after breakfast? "Let's go to the beach!"

The barbecue was tempting but we came back for a proper Christmas lunch, and peeled parsnips and potatoes under a sun umbrella. There were crackers and hats, gravy and stuffing, all on a tropical veranda. Then on Boxing Day, we got up in time to wave off the yachts at the start of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.

These days I feel Sydney is my second home. Each time I've stayed for a month or more, driving, shopping, dropping the girls at nursery. I know the short cuts, the bus routes and the tide tables. I often start the day like the locals – with a swim, a walk across the cliffs or yoga on the beach.

Tom and his family live in Bronte, one of Sydney's eastern seaside suburbs, and like its famous neighbour, Bondi, a big-wave surfing bay. But beside each beach are natural rock swimming pools. The sea washes in small fish, ribbons of seaweed and shells. It's safe swimming – in a giant aquarium.

Bronte, one of Sydney's eastern seaside suburbs

Sydney is stunning, of course, and it's important to spend time in the city, especially when there is such a vibrant music and arts scene. The Opera House tour is a must. But I like sitting at the Opera House bar and gazing at one of the world's great panoramas. Elsewhere – a special treat, open near the start of the year – there's the St George Open Air Cinema, which shows films in the city's Botanic Gardens. Forget the popcorn. Here, you choose from a selection of tasty dishes. Grab a glass of wine, take your seat and watch the cinema screen rise from the harbour. I was totally engrossed – until I looked up and realised that the screen was framed by the floodlit Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, all under a full moon. Only in Oz.

For me, there's too much to see to shop. But on a hot day, I dived into the cool, beautifully restored Queen Victoria Building (QVB). Once revived, I headed down to The Rocks, for quirkier galleries and fun shops.

Sydney's Botanic Gardens

Sydney can get steamy, so it's a good idea to zip off to the cooler Blue Mountains for a night or two. Only 90 minutes west of Sydney, the mountains really are blue (caused by the light catching the evaporating oil from the gum trees). I was reminded of New England – pretty, arty towns sprinkled among some wonderful scenery – until kangaroos hopped out of a forest clearing to greet us. Katoomba is the region's highlight, the site of the Three Sisters rock formation. You can take a cable car down to the valley floor and enjoy a cool rainforest walk.

Christmas had come and gone, but I was determined to see the New Year in on Sydney Harbour. Planning your evening is crucial (see "Essentials"), so I spent a day checking out restaurants and prices (astronomical) . The most reasonable was The East Chinese Restaurant, on Circular Quay, and as the year changed and the sky exploded with £4 million worth of fireworks, we raised a glass to the folks back home.

Later, we watched London's celebrations on television. Everyone was bundled up in coats and hats. Did we wish we were there? What do you think?

GETTING THERE

Christmas is the most expensive time to fly to Australia. For the best deals, book as far in advance as possible. Qantas (0845 774 7767; qantas.com) flies from Heathrow to Sydney and if you book now for travel after December 15, the least you can expect to pay is £1,761 return, for travel out on December 23 and return on January 1; the price goes up if you want to return slightly later. But if you can travel between December 1 and 12 and return after January 6, you could reduce the price by up to £467.

My Trailfinders (020 7938 3939; trailfinders.com) package cost £3,794 (booked four months in advance last year), which included a return Heathrow-Sydney flight with Qantas, a two-night stopover at the Harbour Grand Hotel in Kowloon, with breakfast and airport transfers.

GETTING AROUND

Driving is easy, as Australians drive on the left; I always use a car hire company called No Birds Car Hire (0061 2 9360 4949; nobirdscarhire.com.au). But Sydney has a very efficient bus network – just buy a book of prepaid tickets in advance, available from many newsagents and stores (many routes are prepay only). The gloriously quirky Sydney Harbour ferries are a holiday outing in themselves and the best way to get to harbourside sights and beaches.

NEW YEAR’S EVE IN SYDNEY HARBOUR

 Get there early or you will miss out. Soon after lunch, Circular Quay is locked down and only those with (expensive) passes and tickets to local bars and restaurants are allowed in (book as far in advance as possible; I recommend The East Chinese Restaurant at theeast.com.au). Otherwise, get there first thing, with rugs and picnic, and bag your spot.

Ciruclar Quay is locked down on New Year's Eve in Sydney

 Alternatively, head away from the Harbour Bridge. You will still get lovely views from Robertson Park, near Watsons Bay, or Manns Point in Greenwich. Mrs Macquaries Point has a capacity for 20,000. Bradfield Park has space for 50,000. Try smaller Kurraba Reserve, or Cremorne Reserve. Visit sydneynewyearseve.com for more information.

 Take a NYE Harbour Cruise (newyearsevecruise.com.au). Note that you’ll be on the boat for a long evening – typically, setting off at 6pm and you usually have to bring your own food but you’ll have the best, uncrowded, view of the fireworks and you’ll be part of the Parade of Lights.

 There are two firework displays. The first, at 9pm, is “family fireworks” before the big one at midnight. The early showing allows you to get back to your hotel before the crowds and watch the midnight show on television.

THE BEST HOTELS

Christmas is a quiet time for Sydney hotels but you’ll pay through the nose over New Year’s Eve when many hotels also have minimum stays.

The Sebel Pier One, Sydney ££-££££

On Waterside, alongside the Harbour Bridge, in Walsh Bay, which is cooler and calmer than Circular Quay. The glorious, wraparound veranda gives you sunset views up and down the harbour (sebelpierone.com.au; doubles from £135 per night over Christmas; from £385 over New Year).

Crowne Plaza, Coogee Beach £££

Right on one of the best of the eastern beaches, an hour’s stroll along the cliffs from the more frantic Bondi, and just a minute’s walk from shops and restaurants. Most rooms face the ocean (crowneplazacoogee.com.au; doubles from £246 per night).

Lilianfels, Katoomba £££

Traditional, five-star country mansion, with a stunning swimming pool and al fresco dining, facing the Three Sisters rock formation (lilianfels.com.au; doubles from £318 per night).

The iconic swimming pool alongside the beach balances its imposing setting with a relaxed bar and restaurant, with veranda seating. Try the steak or chicken specials. No reservations (icebergs.com.au).

Café Sydney, Circular Quay ££

On the roof of the Customs House in Circular Quay, from which you can see the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, lit up, seemingly within touching distance. Try the tandoori roast Tasmanian ocean trout, worth the £25, and book early (9251 8683; cafesydney.com).

What to avoid

 On New Year's Eve restaurants and boat trips all charge at least £200 per head and hotel rooms are double that, so check prices carefully before you book, to avoid any nasty shocks.

 Don't leave the harbour after the fireworks without a plan for getting home. Buses and taxis are not allowed within about half a mile of the quay, so be prepared to follow the huge crowds back to the transport hubs.

 Unless you're partying, avoid Bondi Beach on New Year's Eve.

 On all the beaches, always avoid swimming outside the flags. The surfing seas can be dangerous but most beaches have natural, safe rock swimming pools. The best are Wylie's Baths at Coogee and Bronte pool.

DID YOU KNOW?

The highest December temperature ever recorded in Sydney was a scorching 108F (42.2C) in 1957