Libertine and punk? Say it ain’t so. While it’s no surprise that the subversive brand turned to the U.K.’s punk movement for spring 2017, what did come as a surprise was designer Johnson Hartig’s over-the-top embellishments in interpreting the underground movement. While graffiti, street art, and anarchic emblems are de rigeur for any punk look, Hartig took it even further with head-to-toe printing and multi-textured takes on embellishment, which rendered graffiti and propaganda posters done in glittering sequins and fluorescent caviar beading.

Upon closer inspection, the coats, trousers, shift dresses, and more read “Libertine is #chic as hell.” Tongue-in-cheek as it was, the spring 2017 collection was a step in elevating a brand known for studs, spikes, safety pins, and spray paint away from a DIY aesthetic and into a more luxe direction (it’s not just Rihanna and Katy Perry that want to look like glam anarchists).

Hartig also noted that many shows, which shall remain unnamed, were going all-out with embellishment. So he took it even futher, with patches, 3-D embroidery (lips spewing out cascades of pearls), and trompe l’oeil peeling wallpaper prints.

As per usual, it was tough to take in the detail without an up-close look at each and every piece, but the effect was there: an in-your-face celebration of counterculture (we even spied ganja leaves and Bob Marley homages on a hoodie) that looked fit for someone as prim as Kate Middleton. The high-low mashup of more traditional shapes (shifts and bracelet-sleeve coats) done up in alt imagery were compelling, cool, and definitely something that’s going to catch the lens of a street style photographer.