English Menu Offers Updated Treats

Taste of Tidewater

January 21, 1998|By DAVID NICHOLSON Daily Press

WILLIAMSBURG — This city lost a pancake house last year and gained a little bit of Britain.

A Taste of Olde England occupies the Second Street location where the pancake house once stood. Since June, general manager and co-owner Charles "Gibbie" Mangum has been building a steady clientele of locals and out-of-towners looking for a comfortable, mid-priced spot to eat.

The theme restaurant serves Americanized versions of popularly named British dishes. A friendly staff, homey surroundings and a dinner menu with entrees in the $10-$14 price range add up to an attractive package.

Some excellent imported ales and wines are available, though mixed drinks are not. Mangum has deliberately avoided a rowdy pub atmosphere in favor of a quiet setting where older diners will feel comfortable. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday, and the dinner menu is available beginning at noon on Sundays.

Even those who have never visited England will recognize many of the familiar names on the menu. Fish and Chips, one of the restaurant's most popular items, is a deep-fried cod filet served with a homemade tartar sauce. Bangers and Mash is a plate of English sausages served with mashed potatoes.

A cup of the Potato and Leek soup ($2.25) was a great way to begin the evening. Thick, but not heavy, with a slight leek tang, the soup was a warm, flavorful way to ward off a chilly evening.

A more elaborate choice is the Northumberland Basket ($5.95), in which shrimp and scallops are sauteed with garlic, tomato and scallions in a sherry cream sauce. Served in a square-shaped puff pastry, the dish was filling and delicious, with lightly sauteed seafood and a delicate sauce with the faint aroma of sherry.

Other traditional English appetizers include Welsh Rarebit, a Pub Salad made with Stilton cheese and a fruit and cheese platter.

Entrees venture out of the British Isles somewhat, with dishes such as pan-seared salmon and beef medallions. But most of what's offered has an English flair. Prime rib is popular here, as well as a mixed grill that includes a petite filet mignon, salmon and grilled shrimp. Another popular choice, says Magnum, is the Cottage Pie, a crock-baked, ground-beef-and-vegetable mixture topped with mashed potato.

Lancashire Hot Pot ($9.95) is a version of beef stew that's hearty and delicious. Baked in a crock pot, it contained chunks of beef, carrots and onions topped with slices of potato. A rich, brown gravy made this dish worthwhile. A selection of sauteed vegetables were served alongside.

For a lighter choice, we ordered the special of marinated chicken (9.95). A thickly sliced chicken breast served over rice was moist and simply prepared. It's a great selection for diners looking for a low-calorie alternative.

The restaurant serves a variety of desserts, some homemade, including apple pie, cheesecake and assorted ice creams. The English Sherry Trifle ($3.25) made with strawberries, cream filling and whipped cream isn't as elaborate a concoction as the best of the English version.

A Taste of Olde England offered a relaxing evening in comfortable surroundings as well as a nice taste of what this country has to offer.