The STS-4CHSS Sequential Turn Signal kit will convert the taillights on your 2008+ Dodge Challenger into Sequential Turn Signals. The kit contains pre-wired, plug-in harnesses that install with no wire cutting or splicing of any kind.

This is a true Plug-N-Play kit. You do not have to break off any rivets. There is no need to go into the fuse box to make any connections. Return to stock at any time without any evidence of ever being there!

With Smart-Sequence technology, your tail lights sequence ONLY when a signal is on. When you hit the brakes, all lamps come on together.

A: Smart-Sequence is a new technology that makes your tail lights sequence ONLYwhen a signal is on. Some States do not allow the brake lights to sequence, even one time. With Smart-Sequence, when you hit the brakes, all lamps come on at once.

You can disable Smart-Sequence to make your brake lights sequence once each time you press the brake pedal. To do this, simply remove the phone chord that connects between the two sequential harnesses. This will also allow the hazards to sequence each time the flasher clicks on.

Q: What do I get in the splice-in kit?

A: You get two modules (one for each side of the car), connectors, control wire and wire wraps. The modules are only 7/8" diameter by 2" long, which makes them easy to fit behind panels. With the STS-1 kit you can sequence 2 or 3 lamps on each side of the car. If your car has three brake/turn signal lamps (dual filament, either 1157, 2057, 3157 or similar) then you simply connect the modules.

However, if you only have two brake/turn lamps, you may be able to add a third. The instructions on how to do this come with the kit, or can be viewed from the Online Instructions page. Since there are many different cars on the road, it would be difficult to carry all the different types of sockets required to add to all cars. Therefore, if you need an extra socket, you need to get it.

Q: I don't want my brake lights to sequence. Is this possible?

A: Yes. With all WebElectric Products Sequential Turn Signal splice-in kits, you have two choices -- sequence turn signals only (no brake light sequencing) or sequence brake lights and turns signals. The control wire that comes out of the module is used to tell the module when to sequence. If you run the control wire to the turn signal indicator (under the dash) the brake lights will not sequence. This is similar to the original Cougar sequential turn signals, and is less likely to attract the attention of the local Constabulary.

However, if you want the brake lights to sequence (once per brake pedal press) then you leave the control wire connected to the power wire (this is explained in detail in the STS instructions).

As an example, let's say you come to a stop sign and apply the brakes. The lights on both sides of the car sequence one time when you apply the brakes, and stay on. When you lift the brake pedal, they go off, and if you apply the brakes again, they sequence one time again and stay on.

If, for example, when you are approaching the stop sign, you put on your left turn signal, the left side of the car sequences. When you apply the brakes, the right side will sequence one time and stay on, while the left side continues to sequence.

In either case, the hazard lamps will sequence on both sides of the car, every time the flasher clicks.

In addition, for those who want total control, you can add a switch to select the mode of the modules. With a simple two position switch (available at Radio Shack or other electronics parts dealer) you can select whether or not the brake lights sequence.

Q: Do I need to cut any wires?

A: For the splice-in kits, yes. Most cars have all the lamps connected together. In order to control them separately, you need to detach, or cut, them from the wiring harness. All STS kits contain quick splice and/or wire nut connectors that are more than sufficient to make good strong connections. These are provided for the regular driver who may not have access to soldering equipment. If you have an electrical background or have access to a soldering iron, you can solder all the wires if you like. In this case, you will need to insulate the joints with either automotive electrical tape, or shrink-seal tubing.

For some cars (Mustang and Corvette) pre-wired harnesses are available for easy "Plug-N-Play" installation. You simply pull the old harnesses out and replace them with the sequential harnesses. This way, you don't have to cut ANY wires.

Q: Will these sequencers replace the original "sequencer box" in a Cougar?

A: Yes. You will use the original connectors from your '69-'72 Cougar, and splice them to the individual modules. Once you make the connections (follow the diagram below) you can place the modules inside the original sequencer box so the system will look stock.

Q: How reliable are the modules?

A: The modules are solid state and should provide years of trouble-free service.

The solid state devices used in the WebElectric Products kits will easily handle (2) 1157/2057/3157 or equivalent bulbs, which is twice what the normal individual needs. Only a few cars need to have 2 lamps connected together, such as a Chevy Lumina. If you check the Customer's Cars page, you will see several Luminas there, which proves that these modules are robust enough to handle the extra load.

However, even if a module fails completely, the inside lamp will still function as a brake/turn lamp. This is because the wire to that socket is not cut, and therefor there is no chance for any connections to fail.

A: Many cars have tail lights that have three sections. Inside these light fixtures are sockets that hold the light bulbs. Some of these bulbs are dual filament type bulbs that handle both the tail lights and brake light/turn signal functions. Look at the pictures below to identify which type of lights your car has:

Typical tail lights

A) All lights are off.

B) Lights are on.

C) All lamps flash during turn signal

D) Only Inside and Middle lamps flash.

E) Only Inside and Outside lamps flash.

F) Only Middle and Outside lamps flash.

If the tail lights on your car look like the example in C, then you don't need to add a socket. However, if your car looks like D or E, then you need to remove the socket that doesn't flash, and replace it with a dual filament socket and lamp. If your car looks like the example in F, then swap the inside and middle sockets so that it looks like E, then replace the middle socket.

Q: Will I need a new flasher?

A: Probably not. For older cars with thermal flashers, the flash rate may be OK. If it is too fast, you can buy a heavy duty flasher, and that will probably work. If you want to make a thermal flasher cycle "just right", you can open it up and adjust the flash rate by tweaking the contacts.

We have many customers who have installed the modules on cars with electronic flashers with no problems. On the other hand, some cars with electronic flashers require a modified flasher. The STS-1M kit is designed for the Mustang, so you will have no problem with that kit.

Electronic flashers have two problems. The first is that the standard flash rate may be too fast. In this case, the first light comes on and the second and/or third may not. This is because the flasher turns off too soon to allow all the lamps to light up. If you try another flasher, that may solve the problem.

The other problem is the "bulb out" warning feature. This is when the module flashes very quickly to tell the driver that one of the lamps is burned out. Installing a sequencer system effectively removes one or more lamps from the circuit. So when the first lamp comes on, the flasher thinks there's a problem and it flashes at about twice the normal rate.

To determine if your electronic flasher has the "bulb out" feature, simply remove one of the light bulbs from one of the turn signal fixtures. It doesn't matter if it's a front or rear bulb. Turn on the signal (not the hazards). If your flasher operates at about twice the speed (compare it with the other side) then your flasher has this feature.

Again, you may be able to fix this by replacing the flasher. Or, send me your flasher (or better yet, a spare) and for a nominal charge of $10, I will modify the "bulb out" circuitry so the lamps flash normally. I will also slow down the flash rate a bit to allow the full sequencing of all lamps.

Q: Will the sequencers work with aftermarket LED lights?

A: Yes, but...

There are two issues with LED lamps that are used for turn signals. First, since they draw much less current than incandescent light bulbs, the turn signal flasher may not function correctly. A thermal flasher may not get hot enough to cycle, and electronic flashers might think there is a burned out bulb (not enough current flowing) and flash at twice the rate.

You may be able to modify your flasher to work with LEDs, or maybe find a flasher that is not load dependent. However, if you have a car with a special flasher (like a Mustang, for instance), you will have to install a "dummy load" onto at least one of the LED turn signal lamps, most likely the inside one. A dummy load is available fromhttp://www.watsons-streetworks.com.

The other problem is the LED timing. Depending on the number of LEDs in the cluster, or what type of driver is built into it, they can be erratic about sequencing. Usually, they can be stabilized by installing a 1K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (Radio Shack Cat #271-1118, 5/$.99) or equivalent, across each offending LED.

Q: I have a large car and some of the wires don't reach. Can I add wire to the modules?

A: Sure. You can add as much wire as you like. Use #18 or larger primary wire that you can find at your local auto parts store. Also, you can trim any of the wires to length if that will make the wiring a little neater!