Welding/anvil repair/restoration

QuestionI recently purchased a Peter Wright 150 wrought iron anvil that is need of some reconditioning on the face of this anvil. The rebound quality is really sound for the most part with the exception of the horn and near the hardy and pritchel hole. In the middle of the face there is a groove approximately about three quarters of an inch deep in the middle and tappers to 1/8 on an inch on either side of the face.
I plan on using a SA200 Lincoln Welder set at 120-155 amps burning 5/32 7018 or 8018 low hydrogen. All welds will be either be 1G or 2G. I will be pre-heating the anvil to 250-300 degrees checking the heat with a temp stick. My question is would there be advantages to using a hard surfacing rod on the final passes of the LH rod. With as many passes of weld to be deposited is there a critical temperature that I need to be watching for as not to loose any tempering. Should I post heat the anvil, and to what temperature, and wrap with insulating blanket and slowly reduce the temperature. Would peening help restore hardness to the areas that seem not to have the same rebound qualities as the front of the face and the cutting table.
Hope this question is in the range of your expertise. If not do you have any resources that I could reference.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Peace
Dave Racich

AnswerYou can build up using 8018, but the impact surface should be hardface.
Peter wright anvils have a tool steel plate welded on for the hammer surface.
You will want a hardface rod that yields a rockwell C scale rating of 45 to 50.
You will not achieve the full hardness with only one layer of hardface due to dilution with the parent metal.

Peening the welds only hardens manganese based hardface rods.
Cobalt or iron-carbide hardface rods will not benefit from peening.

Most hardface materials will develop a fine pattern of cracks on the surface.
These do not denote any larger problems.
They are normal.

The rod I like the most for anvil surface repair is Fox-BMC by Bohler.

Slow cooling is recommended, but don't worry about adding any more heat before cooling.
You won't get too much heat from only welding.

The horn and table are not covered by the tool steel plate, which is why they are softer.

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Comment

Thanks for the prompt response, I really appreciate the quick and informative answer. I was somewhat concerned about the need for post heat you have given me enough info to get started on this project.
the info will go into the memory bank.
Thanks again
Peace
Dave

Experience

Extensive background in most welding fields. 18 years fabrication of metal theatre scenery, 16 years structural steel, 2 years pipe welding, 9 years as a Welding Instructor at South Seattle Community College, and 5.5 years as a Welding Instructor at the Divers Institute of Technology.
16 years Industrial Welding Consultant for fabrication shops in the greater Seattle Area.
11 years Architectural Metal Fabrication.
8 years in Film/TV; SPFX/construction/set-deco/props/.
33 years Blacksmithing and Knifemaking.
Currently a Field Welding Inspector for Otto Rosenau and Associates.