Well , I'm really not familiar with your gun so I don't mean to imply, it was more of a conversational first impresion. I supose a question mark would have been more apropriate. Also viewing on a very small laptop I've been repairing for a friend but it just looked a bit scary to me if I seen it right. Maybe you can set me strait.
I'm assuming the trigger was grinded on a 45 degree so the sear will release with about half the pull distance and pressure (before involving the safety)? Then I'm assuming that the even lighter trigger pull after releasing the safety was not the intent but a byproduct of the now parcial trigger engagement that is left from safety-on trigger pull. I guess what looked ify to me is when the safety is released, I noticed the sear falls a bit and appears to catch the last bit of trigger. I'm wondering is there something other than that still preventing it from firing or is that it?
If that were it then I would be leary of putting much faith in a moving sear.

That fall was adjusted in for the video -- it doesn't actually exist. It was used to illustrate a point.

HOWEVER, even with the fall, I couldn't get it to fail.

The partial trigger engagement was actually there from the factory. On several examples direct from Savage I saw the striker drop and slamfire when set to less than five pounds of pull. The centerfire Accutrigger is awesome; they should redesign the rimfire. They are two different animals.

The other thing that prevents a negligent discharge is the sear angle. It came from the factory a bit negative(!) and I re-cut it to be slightly positive. Now, instead of wanting to slip the sear, the sear grabs the trigger and pulls it in.

My examination photos from when I was figuring out the solution to the problem:

And how it's cut to slide into the positive engagement notch:

Actually, the second (short) hook is very similar to how it came from the factory, but with the positive angle cut in.

When I took it apart to figure out why the sear seemed to be slipping, my first reaction was shock -- you cannot do the partial sear engagement thing without having a lock (such as the safety) to keep it from firing.

On this modification, firing takes place thus:

1. Aim.

2. Cock the rifle and verify aim.

3a. For a fast shot, use the primary notch. Five pounds, not bad at all. The momentum of the trigger carries it over the secondary sear engagement so that no fly is needed in the lock.

3b. If a lighter pull is desired, put the safety on, pull the trigger, and turn the safety off. This will provide you with a lighter, more deliberate pull.

I'm trying to find a picture of the original rimfire accutrigger engagement to post back as a comparison.

Much better perspective! And I know what you mean by the warning botch, it never takes much. I have a S&W revolver that I bought a used replacement hammer for, and with the naked eye it looks to have no wear, flawless, but if you even breath on it it will slip from SA possition. $25 down the drain. I know I'm guilty of botching a part or two myself learning to work on guns!

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