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Looking at getting a GHK AK74SU as my secondary, how is the range on the shorter one?

Are these as bomb proof as I've been lead to believe or is there something I should look at upgrading?

Will be my first AK

No airsoft replica is bomb proof but in terms of where the GHK AK series ranks on the reliability chart, it is right near the top. It does have some flaws, but everyone of them can be mitigated easily, replacement parts are available AN inexpensive, and the customer service is fantastic.

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No airsoft replica is bomb proof but in terms of where the GHK AK series ranks on the reliability chart, it is right near the top. It does have some flaws, but everyone of them can be mitigated easily, replacement parts are available AN inexpensive, and the customer service is fantastic.

That's as good as I can expect I think. I don't really want to be "upgrading" internals, besides maybe the hop or inner barrel if necessary.

The feeling I get from reading various places is that this AK series is generally a better performer than most M4 GBBR platforms? Mainly due to the larger gas reservoir though..

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You just bought an Hephaestus, unless something really unexpected happens it should last you awhile Then again, every combination och bolts and hop-ups known to man have failed me before going back to stock hop chamber so... yeah, i really hate my choice of hobby sometimes xD

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My statements here might be outdated, but the fact that steel trigger groups still aren't available should speak volume, the only reinforcement internals (to do with the trigger mechanism) is the gas valve knocker, so I assume that must mean there isn't a demand for it yet. (aka stock parts still working for most people), and like L2E said, replacements are available and cheap.

The improved performance is again, not because of the larger gas reservoir, just as a GHK M4 V2 mag won't make a WOC perform anywhere near the same way a GHK M4 would with the same magazine... GHK just make it their name to spend time on making things as cool down proof as they can, it's not just the magazines, but how they design the gun to work with it, like in this old video.

Common issue is that magazine lips being too tight, which can result in damaged feed ramp and in my experience, broken nozzles "guides", but after you address the two, things haven't gone wrong for me in a long time.

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Well its a 74M that I can get cheaper, with 4 mags, for about £50 less than a new 105 - so makes sense, just not sure I prefer the longer barrel models. I've got the Hepaestus AK rail set to go on and may will fit a MOE stock.

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Hard to compare the two really, but for what it's worth I can't see myself owning another GHK M4, mainly because if I really want another built, I'd just remove / add accessories accordingly, whether it's different stock handguard barrel lengths etc, but as an owner of 3 GHK AKs (Travis Haley style, AMD65, AKS74U), I can still see myself getting another one for a potential RPK built..! Just because AKs are not as modular (with things such as the rear trunnion being one of the biggest deciding factor)

And the Devilhunter mod worked perfectly after a little trial and error, it is now possible to just charge CO2 magazines with a CO2 paintball tank as you would green gas, and this would apply to all 3 GHK CO2 magazines (STANAG, 7.62 style, 5.45 style).

Edited September 9, 2014 by blobface

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What did you learn from trial and error? What were your modifications?

The only difference between the gas and Co2 mags is the cap on the bottom of the cylinder and the release valve. If I get the co2 valves and the kjw fill valves I should be able to run tanked co2, yes?

Edited September 9, 2014 by Roland1014

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Hard to compare the two really, but for what it's worth I can't see myself owning another GHK M4, mainly because if I really want another built, I'd just remove / add accessories accordingly, whether it's different stock handguard barrel lengths etc, but as an owner of 3 GHK AKs (Travis Haley style, AMD65, AKS74U), I can still see myself getting another one for a potential RPK built..! Just because AKs are not as modular (with things such as the rear trunnion being one of the biggest deciding factor)

And the Devilhunter mod worked perfectly after a little trial and error, it is now possible to just charge CO2 magazines with a CO2 paintball tank as you would green gas, and this would apply to all 3 GHK CO2 magazines (STANAG, 7.62 style, 5.45 style).

All that tells me is that an M4 is modular whereas an AK isn't

I meant more in terms of performance and reliability so far?

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Well, I made it more complicated for myself, I initially tried to use 88g to charge it, which would have worked, except I had issue with the S-Thunder nozzle which was just leaking out the sides when the nozzle is compressed (instead of going down the nozzle), so I got hold of a Madbull charging nozzle, which didn't work with the 88g -> paintball adapter, but it worked without any issues with a 20oz paintball tank.

So what worked for me at the end was, GHK CO2 mag, KJW M9 fill valve, Madbull charging adapter and a 20oz tank. Also we must call it the Devilhunter mod officially, it's too awesome not to give him credit.

I meant more in terms of performance and reliability so far?

Can't really give a useful answer, I only play CQB so as far as accuracy goes, I don't shoot beyond 20m and I hit what I aim at generally at that sort of range @ 300 fps on .25, the M4 kicks harder in the stock setup, but the AK can be upgraded with recoil units to increase that to match. So far M4 hasn't shown any issues, but the AK had to be modded as mentioned above to make them work properly (filing mags). The are both very cool down resistant, but perhaps a stock AK would do better as its bolt is lighter, but the difference isn't huge. The only complaint I have about the M4 is that the magwell is too tight so magazines won't fall free, and I don't dare sanding the mags as I suspect the tight fit is only a good thing for the cool down.

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Okay I have my first GHK AK today, got a good deal on a second hand AK74M.

I've got a few questions;

1) I intended to put a RS MOE stock on using the Hephaestus stock adaptor, however I bought the fixed version thinking they would all just fit (as I dont really want a folding stock, and a folding MOE just looks WEIRD!), but obviously it doesn't. Is there any way around this, or am I going to have to buy the folding stock adaptor?

2) Is there any difference in the size of the main body, between the AK74 and the AK105 varients? (As my intention is to convert this to a 105 varient)

3) Apart from a TBB it is stock internally, and some parts have a bit of wear (hammer, firing pin, and underside of bolt). Is there any other "upgrades" that I should be looking at putting in/changing out?

And lastly, as its my first AK, how easy/hard are they to fully disassemble/clean/re-assemble?

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Finally got my GHK 74U in the mail Friday, and opened it Sunday, and took everything apart.

Be careful with the hop-up unit, been having some troubles with mine, the rubber seems to sit a bit off, so can't figure it out for the life of me. Took it apart several times and even changed the rubber, still a bit misaligned, not flush.

It's a pain for the 74U at least to put the inner barrel + hop-up chamber back in, have to place the dial and nub in once it's inside the AK body, and proceed to assembling inside the body, lol. So make sure you have a ton of space to work on!

Also had problems of my lid not closing properly, so had to take advice from Mr Nugent and cover it with a microfiber and gently tap it in place to close it, as it won't hand close >: (

Apart from that, cleaned the gun with a microfiber got all the bronzish gunk and ###### and re-lubed/greased it - still trying to figure out the bucking.

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Okay I have my first GHK AK today, got a good deal on a second hand AK74M.

I've got a few questions;

1) I intended to put a RS MOE stock on using the Hephaestus stock adaptor, however I bought the fixed version thinking they would all just fit (as I dont really want a folding stock, and a folding MOE just looks WEIRD!), but obviously it doesn't. Is there any way around this, or am I going to have to buy the folding stock adaptor?

2) Is there any difference in the size of the main body, between the AK74 and the AK105 varients? (As my intention is to convert this to a 105 varient)

3) Apart from a TBB it is stock internally, and some parts have a bit of wear (hammer, firing pin, and underside of bolt). Is there any other "upgrades" that I should be looking at putting in/changing out?

And lastly, as its my first AK, how easy/hard are they to fully disassemble/clean/re-assemble?

Thanks guys

1) Unfortunatelly if you have a folding stock AK then the only option is the Hephaestus folding one. I didn't know either that its easier to get M4 style buffer tube on the full stock AKs. Tough there are 1 or 2 folding stock adapters around but they are hard to get. I installed a real steel CAA on my AK-105 but it required dremeling and it is still not as good as it should be.

2) The only difference between the two are the barrel length(and ofc the front sight/gas tube)

3) The first thing that brokes in the AKs are usually the sears(the full auto part exactly) but they are easy to switch if you know what you are doing. Also file the mag lips till its easy to load the BBs(ofc not to the point they fell out) or your hop-up chamber might get damaged.

Basic disassemble is easy. Remove the top cover, take out the recoil spring, take out the buffer, then pull out the bolt. To take the barrel out you simply take the two screws out on the top of the hop-up then pull/push the front part out(a flat headed srewdriver helps) and you can take the adjusting wheel and the nub out(its small so watch it). Finally pull the chamber itself of off the barrel/hop-up rubber(you should push the whole barrel inside the gun to reach it easier) and again watch for the barrel lock part it falls off easily. After you take off the rubber you can push the barrel out to the front.

While I haven't done a full disassembly of the FCG I did switch the sear out for a steel one. Easiest way is: take the E-clip on the left side of the pin -inside the gun- then slowly start pushing the pin out with a punch but stop when the pin is only holding the left part of the trigger and the left spring. Then pull the punch until it holds the right side similary as the pin the left. This way you can simply take out the sear and replace it(just watch for the small spring the sear is placed on) and you can just push the pin back entirely and put the E-clip back. I thing Nugentgl has a video of taking the FCG apart.