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It was back in 1997 that I first went to Cambodia. There were only a handful of small
hotels that were family run and Raffle Chain Hotel was the hotel to stay
at. Then, only small, hut-like
vendors were open and only for a few hours, providing very few Khmer
dishes. The seaside was not safe
and walks along the beach were unheard of back them. Now, there are over 300
hotels on the popular strip in the city Siem Reap; from Starckish to affordable
boutique inns.

Take a 5-hour bus ride or rent a motorbike and head to southern Cambodia to Kep and Kampot; two small charming towns sparely populated and untouched by tourists, save those seeking to avoid the traffic and dust of Phnom Penh. Both towns have the charm of an old French colonial era by-gone surrounded by a lush, natural landscape. The best time to visit is during the cool and dry season from November to February.

Kampot is a very laidback town and the gateway to Bokor Mountain where once a French resort town flourished. The town named Boker Hill Station was populated in the 1920s by French settlers. They produce the best aromatic and complex pepper in the world in Kampot from their plantations.

Nearby is Kep with its unremarkable beaches, with a few beachside restaurants and markets along the main street. But the specialty dish of this province is the crab with fresh Kampot pepper and why one would travel here.