Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

07-08-2011 09:04 PM

deadbodyman

Something I do is to only apply two coats of clear at a time,sand with 600 and set outside,wait a couple days and shoot two more coats of clear then sand with 1500.....it seems to take care of the wave problem and its a lot less work.

07-08-2011 01:31 PM

BarryK

sure Ron, in a solvent base the black is carbon, now this does not apply to a water base as they may used burnt bones or whatever else is black.

Carbon conduces electricity and the solvents and other additives are polar, so the main reason it dries slower is its fighting the solvents from coming out, to keep this short.

That is why any custom black job the base sets over night before clearing.
Dark Blues and dark greens are the other problems as they have a lot of black in them.

07-08-2011 01:09 PM

gto_ron

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryK

Also don't forget the sun, if the car has not been baked.
My Sequoia was painted last week and it is black, also shot four coats of clear on it, I will drive it another two weeks before I wet sand and buff just to let the paint settle, black dries different then any other color.

Barry

Can you elaborate on the way black dries differently when CCed?

thanks

Ron

07-08-2011 05:55 AM

BarryK

Also don't forget the sun, if the car has not been baked.
My Sequoia was painted last week and it is black, also shot four coats of clear on it, I will drive it another two weeks before I wet sand and buff just to let the paint settle, black dries different then any other color.

07-08-2011 04:54 AM

BarryK

I found my old post on the procedure and was off on a few statements, so here are some pictures and a better explanation.

Its not that bad!
I had four coats of clear on the vette and ended up with average mil reading of 16-18 mils, measured at r-fender and left quarter with dummy piece of metal clamped in wheel well.

With 600 I had from memory APPROX 11-12 hours.
Then with either 1000 or 1200, about 2 hours.
Then with 1500 about same or less but had a few phone calls, so lost track.

The course grit makes or breaks the job, the finer grits do nothing but convert the scratches.

You will win!!!

07-08-2011 04:08 AM

turbo t

thanks barry !

so still a 50/50 chance of a re-paint then lol

will give this a try today and report back i think i am already about 2000 hrs in sanding till now so a little more wont hurt

thanks again for the input barry!

tommy

07-07-2011 05:53 PM

BarryK

What you are seeing is urethane wave, like every other show car has when using a higher solids clear and using excess coats.
Has nothing to do with how you sprayed it, gun adjustment or clear pulling back. This is normal with doing custom work unless you use an everyday production clear and then you are going back wards after two coats.

There is only one correction and that is wet sanding, first with 400, 600 or 800, your choice as these are the only grits that will remove the urethane wave. 1000 will make a slight dent but only if you beat yourself half to death sanding.

Hard block on fresh clear??? You are more a man then me, how I do my jobs is 400 or 600 with a soft pad like motor guard or 3M and when done I will jump to either 1000 or 1200 (depending on sandpaper inventory) pretty serious stuff here as you can tell and itís the same reason I sand first with 400 or 600.
Then I go to 1500 and ready to buff, some people like 2000 or 3000 and buff, that is up to you as all clears are different as to how they buff.

For the perfect job, you may consider letting car set in full sun for a day or two before wet sanding and a full day after wet sanding and then buffing for good leveling and it will cut your buffing time in half.

07-07-2011 02:37 PM

turbo t

put a little to much clear on

hey guys i painted my car about 6 weeks ago bc/cc solvent

but with the intentions of flattening and polishing for a show finnish i thought i will apply an extra 2 coat = 5 wet coats in total

Now heres the problem (no runs no solvent pop)

but man the panels have got some ripple through it
the ripple is even all the way through every panel so its not bad bodywork this time

i have flattend it with 1200 on hard block then 3m 1500 c/c discs then trizact 3000 + polished BUT the ripple is still there

i know with the process i have done wet sanding etc there still a good amount of clear on it do i go lower grits ? to get rid of the ripple/waves