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Thanks, Grizz. Just in time, too. After seeing your bridge at the hang, I knew I would need to try one. So I built my first bridge (as in first of many?) and am thinking about how I want to add end caps and bug net. I think I might follow you bug net idea, still not sure about caps. You goin' to tell us all this?

I posted once on it, look here. Tells you what to do, but no suggestions on how to do it.

In words. Maybe get a piece of paper and a pencil....think of the dart shown, two edges, equal length, coming together at a point. We can easily measure the endpoints of the lines. The line that cuts the long edge is placed in such a way that when both such lines are placed the distance between those endpoints is the width of the spread. The endpoint that intersects the shorter edge does so 3/8" from the top edge. So, for a given dart, fold the fabric over so that the endpoint on the short edge overlays the endpoint on the long edge. Now if you take a ruler and lay it out on the doubled fabric so that the ruler edge passes through the overlaid points and extends up and crosses the fold, note that any place we place that ruler, if we were to cut along that line we would create a dart with exactly equal side lengths. By experimenting I've found that 17" length is good for the head, and 14" is good for the foot.

Now I don't really cut along that line. Instead I draw a line on the fabric, pin the two sides together, and run a stitch along that line. THEN I cut, just offset from the line a little.

OK, maybe you can wait for the movie version....

I like the removable suspension. It was fun putting all that together once, but if I build another it would be nice to switch out. Next time I guess....

Yes, I do a lot of experimenting with hammocks and it is a lot simpler if I don't have to create a new suspension with every one of them.

Originally Posted by BER

Like that suspension. Very elegant with the second arm of the suspension triangle spliced in and the soft shackles/diamond knot attachment. Kudos.

Thanks. There is a price paid for that splice (x2), you increase the minimum distance between trees that you can easily hang. But there definitely is a pleasing aesthetic to it.

Originally Posted by Dutch

I am your student

Excellent! Your first homework is to draw a diagram for krugd of the explanation I gave him on making the endcap

seriously though, I appreciate the sentiment coming from the Dutch Master.

Originally Posted by job13_5

Grizz, you're such an awesome contributor! You could very easily keep all these ideas to yourself, but you share share share. I'll be looking forward to the build-a-grizz videos!

Keep being awesome!

Well thanks....what good is an idea if I don't share? In this hobby space I've no designs on any intellectual property. Have the ideas used is the reward. "Impact" we call it in my day job.

Originally Posted by srestrepo

the only thing that keeps me from picking up a bridge hammock is that according to manufacturer claims i'm too heavy for one (290pounds)... thats the only thing that keeps me from hanging in one.

I think a double bodied hammock with thicker webbing suspension and speader bar (questoutfitters has an even heftier version of what I use, but would be 34" rather than 36" wide) would support you. I learned to sew making bridge hammocks....you could too...a thought....

Originally Posted by acercanto

Very cool! And I don't even like bridges! I am very curious about the ridgeline attachment, I couldn't wrap my head around it from the video alone. Maybe a diagram?

Acer

Nuthin fancy there. One line is buried into the other. The bury is started with a locked Brummel. You know how that goes...line A passes through line B, and then very close to that line B passes through line A. Before you tighten things up and finish the bury there is a hole formed by A going through B on one side, and B going through A on the other. I threaded a length of Lash-It through that hole, then finished the bury. I put a double fishman's knot in the Lash-It to form a loop. Now the ridgeline is also Lash-It, which makes differentiation a bit hard to see. But all that is done at the end shown in the video is to have a bowline loop in the ridgeline, pass the bowline through the cord ring embedded in the suspension, and pass the standing end of the ridgline through the bowline.

Nah, that explains it well. I was just curious where the lash-it secured to. I thought maybe it was buried into the bury of the amsteel or something. Thanks for explaining!

Unconfuzzed,
Acer

In a video "Ask Professor Hammock" where I hacked a BMBH, that suspension had this same loop buried in the Amsteel. That's pretty, and elegant, and I HOPE it would hold. But the diameter of the Lash-It is so small relative to the Amsteel, and the stuff is so slippery, I thought the better part of valour would be discretion and I stopped doing that.

I posted once on it, look here. Tells you what to do, but no suggestions on how to do it.

Now I remember seeing that. Not having done anything with darts it didn't make much sense. Got it now!

In words. Maybe get a piece of paper and a pencil....think of the dart shown, two edges, equal length, coming together at a point. We can easily measure the endpoints of the lines. The line that cuts the long edge is placed in such a way that when both such lines are placed the distance between those endpoints is the width of the spread. The endpoint that intersects the shorter edge does so 3/8" from the top edge. So, for a given dart, fold the fabric over so that the endpoint on the short edge overlays the endpoint on the long edge. Now if you take a ruler and lay it out on the doubled fabric so that the ruler edge passes through the overlaid points and extends up and crosses the fold, note that any place we place that ruler, if we were to cut along that line we would create a dart with exactly equal side lengths. By experimenting I've found that 17" length is good for the head, and 14" is good for the foot.

Now I don't really cut along that line. Instead I draw a line on the fabric, pin the two sides together, and run a stitch along that line. THEN I cut, just offset from the line a little.

Ok - took out a rectangular piece of material, marked endpoints with binder clips and folded one clip onto the other. Easy to see then that any cut to the fold will work for a dart. (From small to quite large.)

OK, maybe you can wait for the movie version....

Easy as Pi. I knew that reading all those research papers would come in handy someday. Makes what you said clear and easy!

I posted once on it, look here. Tells you what to do, but no suggestions on how to do it.

FWIW: that diagram confused the heck out of me the first time I saw it because it's "upside down" compared to the way the piece of fabric fits into the bridge. Yep, that's ridiculous, but that's the way my brain works (or doesn't). It might or might not be confusing to others.

FWIW: that diagram confused the heck out of me the first time I saw it because it's "upside down" compared to the way the piece of fabric fits into the bridge. Yep, that's ridiculous, but that's the way my brain works (or doesn't). It might or might not be confusing to others.

ha! And I drew it that way because when I'm working with the piece to cut the dart it is most natural (to me any way) to have the piece in front of me with the orientation in the diagram. All the fine motor control stuff involved has to do with the ruler passing though the point of the edge dart only the long side.

I hope it will be clearer in the 3D movie version, coming soon (?) to a video channel near you!