Did I read that you are running the Akra map? Put the stocker in and leave o-2 on. Let them do there job. If the bike is running well there is nothing wrong most likely but the mapping. Your o-2 sensors could be toast as I have ran into some that were. Running 70-80 you are not going to get that good of milage for these tall bricks.
Your bike is so bad you can blindly lean it out without worry. Try subtracting 10% fuel from 1% to 20% tps 2K to 4.5K on the F1/F2 maps. Test ride. If all is well subtract 5% same area. Keep going until you feel slight hesitation. At that point your getting lean so add 3% back in. Check your spark plugs. When I say slight hesitation I mean steady throttle and very easily adding throttle as if you just want to pick up speed a couple mph. If you twist it too hard the ECU switches over to the MAP based map. Wouldn't be a bad idea to change the f/l switch down to 1800rpm while your doing this. Even with the f/l that low you still have throttle enrichment when you twist it.

Remember:

1) pay attention to light throttle response.
2) the famous throttle notch, jerk or whatever. It should get smoother. Yours is probably bad.

Anyone can try this. Use smaller increments if your milage isn't as bad. And of course the disclaimer:

TUNE AT YOUR OWN RISK

Always use a wide-band and fresh gas on a closed course with a professional rider and tuner. Always were a helmet. Never get your 950/990 dirty as someone might think you cut through an illegal field on your way to Starbucks. Never drink more than one cupof coffee before riding as inherent wheelie problems could exist and gas stations hard to resist.
blahblahblah

+1 Tahoeacr knows his crap. I'm very wary of what I can do when it comes to this stuff but I wouldn't hesitate at all to follow his instructions.

You want me to get my map from Wheeler and pull up the throttle values and settings? It may not be spot on but it should be closer. Also, you going to WestFest? I think I'm heading out, hell you can pull my map if you want. I can swing by Texas.

Hey Diek, glad you are back. Tahoeacr's suggestions are good to try. There is no reason to run the Akra map on your bike. You can compare your original map with the stock map to see if you were stock before. Some of the changes you noted after canister and sas removal were likely due to the new throttle cables and not having the TPS set after the change.

I'm not sure how turning off the O2 sensors in Tuneecu could have any effect on the sensors (they are pretty much a passive device), but that doesn't mean that one (or both) are not bad.

Click to expand...

From what I recall, Diek has been running the akra map for quite a while. By default, in an akra map, the O2 sensors are turned off. Having them plugged in but "off" isn't something the sensors particularly like. So my post was to remind him that if he is to turn them back on (either in the stock or akra map), he might run into that issue of having dead o2 sensors. Fwiw.

if he is to turn them back on (either in the stock or akra map), he might have dead o2 sensors.

Click to expand...

I had both O2 sensors die. They definitely are "passive devices?"
They operate at high temp which, if not produced from exhaust gas, is raised through preheaters. Maybe when they are subjected in exhaust gas flow, in lower temp, they get destroyed, collecting carbon residuals?
Cheers

I had both O2 sensors die. They definitely are "passive devices?"
They operate at high temps which if not produced from exhaust gas are raised through preheaters. Maybe when they are subjected in lower exhaust gas, they get destroyed, collecting carbon residuals?
Cheers

I don't think Viola-tor has verified whether or not the O2 sensors are working yet. The 990 ECU uses the O2 sensor setting to select whether or not to enter a loop-back mode (adjusting the fuel ratio depending on the voltage read from the sensor). The ECU does not attempt to enter loop-back mode until the O2 sensors are up to operating temperature (the 990 has O2 sensor heaters to speed the warm-up). If the O2 sensors are disabled, the ECU uses fixed maps for the given rpm, motor-temperature, ambient air temperature, air pressure, etc., just as it does during initial warm-up.

So it's been a sad summer, at least as far as the orange beastie is concerned. But anyway, I'm going to give it a another stab to try to figure out this MPG/fueling issue so hopefully I can do some fall riding.

HOWEVER,

There are some conditions: I personally have to be able to do it at home, and at minimal cost. I've been unsuccessful at finding a competent professional KTM tuner within a thousand miles, much less an affordable one.

I've added a Shorai battery, and finally got Windows running on my Mac. I know how to upload/download maps, and run all the TuneECU diagnostic tools (which all pass). MPG is still in the mid 20's (when I parked the bike in March ). That's where I stand.

Tell me if I'm wrong, but it sure seems to me to satisfy these goals I'll need some sort of diagnostic equipment, yes? I'm ignorant of such things. I've heard of tailpipe sniffers (measuring exhaust "mix"?), and of course dynos (measuring HP and tourque). What about some sort of real-time data logger while the bike is running that gives insight into fuel mix and such? Or would that be part of a dyno tune session?

I'm guessing it is unlikely reasonable to attain this equipment at home, which puts me back to square one (please tell me if I'm wrong or if there is a poor-man's work-around).

Which brings me to the OTHER way out of this mess: Becoming the first LC8 owner in history to REINSTALL the SAS system, attempting to bring the bike back to close-to-stock. This seems wrong out of principle, but I can put principles aside if it means I'll be allowed back in the saddle. Plus this would cost next to nothing. Would it work? Reinstall SAS and load stock map? I still wouldn't KNOW that it's working optimally, but there's a good chance it would be...

Be gentle, I know the few OC inmates who actually, TRULY understand this F.I. black magic must get SOOOOO frustrated explaining it to us neanderthals again and again. Your insight is appreciated. I mean, I get it: Fuel + Oxygen = Go. Right. To much/little of one or the other throws it off. Yes, TuneECU will let you change a multitude of parameters. That's great. My hang up is how one KNOWS what to change, and how much. Not guess, but KNOW. Guessing seems to offer no advantage over carbs, and equally as frustrating. My bike is running rich. Obviously. Great. TuneECU hasn't helped me to come to that conclusion, nor has it even confirmed that.

A screenshot of TuneECU hooked up can also be helpful.
Air filter.. prefilter?
Exhaust
which map now... actual OEM#
gearing
Throttle body intakes clean
fuel filter change
or anything else that might help.

My guess is you have an aftermarket Airfilter(which could be beyond its life span) and a prefilter, and the Arka map.= gas hog to rich

As i made my bike more dirt worthy my mileage has slowly gone down.
Tires- gearing- prefilter- Maps... just sayin thats my experience.
Again my experience is the Arka map is rich, to rich for my bike. 07 w/arkos and full ectomies.
I can run the stock map on my bike with the F/L switch set 0 above 2000 rpm, tho i get the best fuel mileage with that setup i hear the fan run more than usual when in 1st and 2nd which leads me to believe it is near lean. This is all just seat o the pants tune, i would love a data logger, just not in the budget.

So when its hot in the summer i run the 1/2 Arka map with some tweaks, and jump back to the stock map in the cooler months.

All the problems started after I pulled the charcoal cannister and the SAS (following OC tutorials). Bike was running "fine," getting upper 30's MPG all around, after SAS/Canni dropped to mid 20's and other riders behind report fuel odor. I've dissasembled 3 times to check my work, as far as I can tell it's tight, clean, and thorough...

A screenshot of TuneECU hooked up can also be helpful.

I'm out of town for another week, but I'll get some fresh screen shots when I get home. There are some previous screen shots a few pages back.

My guess is you have an aftermarket Airfilter(which could be beyond its life span) and a prefilter, and the Arka map.= gas hog to rich

As i made my bike more dirt worthy my mileage has slowly gone down.
Tires- gearing- prefilter- Maps... just sayin thats my experience.
Again my experience is the Arka map is rich, to rich for my bike. 07 w/arkos and full ectomies.
I can run the stock map on my bike with the F/L switch set 0 above 2000 rpm, tho i get the best fuel mileage with that setup i hear the fan run more than usual when in 1st and 2nd which leads me to believe it is near lean. This is all just seat o the pants tune, i would love a data logger, just not in the budget.

Interesting, I may ask you some more questions when I have the bike plugged in in front of me.

So when its hot in the summer i run the 1/2 Arka map with some tweaks, and jump back to the stock map in the cooler months.

It performs just fine! I took a trip to Big Bend Nat. Park in March, getting 23-27 mpg all the way, slabbing and dirting (down from 35-38 MPG average pre-SAS removal)... But performance was not adversely effected. I can't afford to ride at 23 mpg is the sad truth. MUST FIX. It's just hard when it's not really broken...

I dont know if this has been discussed in this thread. My fuel milage was going down. Started out over 35mpg, then slowly going down to about 29mpg. The rear scorp was worn out, so replaced with half used dunlap 908. My mpg increased back to over 35mpg. Also, I had been tacking about 5k at 75mph, now with different tire, about 5k at 80mph. The gearing is 16 45. Dont really know why or what this means, its just the results so far.