(Update) Three of the planes have been sold. From the right in the first picture, the 2nd, 4th, and 6th are gone. Updated pictures in post #11.

I have a small collection of Union planes that I am looking to sell. Everything from tiny 5” block planes to the Union 6X with the patented depth adjuster.

The block planes are priced at $25-$30The two No.3 size planes are $40 each. Both have smooth soles.The three No.5 are $45 each. All three have corrugated soles.The No.5A (same size as a Stanley 5-1/2) is $50. It has a corrugated sole.

The No.6X is $100. It also has a corrugated sole. The patented depth adjuster on this plane allows you to remove the iron or back it out of the mouth without losing the iron’s depth setting. Very handy.

The rabbet plane is a Union No.43, similar to Stanleys No.78. This one is priced at $45.

All of these planes perform as good as or better than comparable Stanleys (imo). They have been cleaned, lubricated and sharpened, ready to go to work.

If you have any questions or need additional pictures of any of these planes, just send me a PM.

I also have a bunch of Stanley planes for sale. Will post those as soon as I can get some pictures.

Shipping to be paid by buyer. I think most of these will fit in a small or medium flat rate USPS box.Local pickup here in Willow Spring, NC is OK.

15 replies so far

I’m looking to get a couple functional planes at reasonable prices, and these seem to fit the bill.

Looks like I’m your huckleberry.

I’ll take:

A block plane (smoothest cutter you have , please)One #3 (the one with the zebrawood looking handles… Poor consideration? Am I a narcissist?)One #5The big girl #6XAnd the number 43

Now I’d like anyone willing to critique my selection, to tell me if I’m putting together an inferior/less useful/unnecessary selection, and what other planes are must have, as well as if any of these should be left off a beginner’s list until later.

The No.3 with the zebrawood knob and tote. The knob and tote were shop made by the previous owner. They are nice and smooth, in perfect condition and look really cool. The iron on this one is un-marked. It is not a union iron. It is tapered , getting thicker at the cutting edge. I was told at some point that the tapered irons were made by Ohio Tool(?). This plane has the early lateral adjuster with the raised bump above the pivot point.

Of the three No.5, this is the one I would take. It has a chip missing from the toe of the tote where the front screw hole is located. There is a washer under the screw holding it down and it is nice a solid.

Not sure if you could see this in the other pictures. The tote on the 6X is missing most of the horn.

I do take PayPal.

I will have to figure out the best way to ship these. I don’t think they will all fit in a large flat rate box.

134 views and no one chimes in. I feel I might be being hasty here. However, looking into comparable planes seems to reveal that these are reasonably priced.

Looking at the horn of the 6X I think I’ll pass on that one. Perhaps that is a trivial concern, but nevertheless, I may need to consider resale value. If I don’t take to hand planing, or decide to upgrade, I need to consider.

Can you describe the condition as well as the uses for the rabbeting plane? I wanted to use a plane for tennoning, and it seems hefty for such a purpose. Someone else had mentioned a shoulder plane, and I’m not up on terminology sufficiently to understand any differences.

A good working assortment of planes will vary depending on your expected use. If you use mostly power tools and machinery, then a good block and smoother (#3 or 4) may be all you need. If starting with rough sawn lumber and using mostly hand tools, add a jack (#5) and jointer (usually a #7 or 8, though a #6 works for shorter boards) to that for squaring and dimensioning.

The rabbeting plane works decently for just that, rabbets. I suppose it could be made to work for tenon faces, but the blade set up and angle isn’t good for the end grain on shoulders. You are going to want a shoulder plane for that purpose.

Union planes are very good quality and will serve you nicely. IMHO, the prices are fair for planes that are tuned and ready to go. Decide what you need and go forth. (Just remember that planes can be a slippery slope of purchases & collecting. I started with just a couple not that long ago and now have a couple dozen)

-- In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

I might be getting ahead of myself, but I do want to put together machines and hand tools. Rabbeting and other more voluminous tasks I will more likely do with a table saw or router. I do want to try my hand at hand jointing though. Reading up a bit, I do see that a #7 or #8 might be more forgiving, therefore more appropriate for a beginner.

The big question, hand planing rough sawn to s4s: Feasible for a beginner? I do understand there will be a learning curve, but I’d like to know if anyone even bothers anymore. Haven’t seen any discussion on it, but haven’t searched either.

I dropped the ball on a 12” delta thickness planer for $50 on CL. I’m taking it a signal from the universe to either do hand planing, or to tighten up when I find a potential bargain.

Okay Mark. I’d like to pare the order down to the block plane you suggested, the #3 with zebra, and the #5 you suggested. Let me know how to send payment, either by PM or through your blog, eBay or what ever means you use. I’ll settle up as soon as I get back from errands.

If you decide that you do want a rabbet plane I also have a Stanley No.78 available that has the depth stop and the fence.

FWIW. I had a young man stop by the shop on Saturday. He didn’t know exactly what he wanted, he just knew that he wanted to get started with hand planes. We spent a couple of hours playing with most of the sizes and types that I have in the shop. He ended up buying a No.3 smoother and a No.5 jack plane. That seems to me to be a pretty good starter set for a beginner.

I would not badmouth Union planes. IMHO, they can work every bit as well as Stanley. The only drawback is that parts are not as readily available as Stanley are. I think you made a good choice with the ones you chose, as far as a “starter” set goes. :)) There are some that mill their lumber using hand tools and for smaller pieces the #5 will work well.When you get into larger pieces or want to start jointing by hand, you will want a 7 or 8, depending on how much weight you want to push around.

For parts for planes there is a guy on eBay with user name nhplaneparts. He usually has around 1,000 or so parts for sale at any given point in time. All of his sales are ‘buy it now’ and his prices are usually very reasonable with reasonable shipping. If you need more than one item he will combine shipping to save you a couple of dollars.