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1993 Toyota Pickup - Weekend Warrior: Part 7 (Body Drop 3), Clutch

Body-Drop It Part III

Photography by Mike Alexander

Mini Truckin', November 01, 2007

Body-drop Survival Guide

1. First and foremost, when planning to bodydrop your truck, the very first step is to make sure it lays flat frame. All crossmembers must be addressed and the entire frame needs to lie flat on the ground-before you even think about that body-drop.

2. Once the truck is completely laid out, the next thing is to make a plan and size everything up. This includes knowing what wheel size you will run and exactly how low you want to go: to the pinch, to the rocker, to the door, and so on.

3. For the smoothest body-drop possible, do everything else first. Meaning: drop your motor, relocate the suspension, get all of the other issues worked out, and then you can cut your floor and lay her flat out.

4. Planning ahead and making a body-drop checklist is the safest way to ensure you don't run into any unforeseen problems. Decide right away if you want to keep your A/C, heat, and other amenities. You need to know right away what route you want to take, such as stock-floor, traditional, channel, and so on.

9. and 10. Using a piece of spare 1/2-inch tubing and 1-inch flat stock, Bobby set up a link system that allows the pedal to be pushed down, which in turn pulls the clutch cylinder. At first, we just tacked it together for testing.

9. and 10. Using a piece of spare 1/2-inch tubing and 1-inch flat stock, Bobby set up a li

10.

11. Here's a look at how the setup works. The flat stock is attached to the pedal. So, as you push in the pedal, it slides down the tubing compressing the clutch master cylinder. All that will need to run to the engine bay is a brake line to fill the reservoir.

11. Here's a look at how the setup works. The flat stock is attached to the pedal. So, as

12. The last thing to be addressed is the actual pedal, which also hits the firewall tub. We measured out exactly where it hits.

12. The last thing to be addressed is the actual pedal, which also hits the firewall tub.

13. A piece of 1/4-inch was cut out in the shape needed to clear the wheel tub.

14. The new piece of the pedal was lined up and marked.

15. The piece was welded into place, so the center (stock section) could be cut out.

16. And there you have it: A new pedal assembly that houses the clutch cylinder, so your firewall is clean, and there's plenty of room for those big wheels. For more information, contact Sadistic Iron Werks. They build many custom clutch applications for your particular ride.

16. And there you have it: A new pedal assembly that houses the clutch cylinder, so your f