The HHKB Professional 2. Speak those words, and your thoughts may include “TOO EXPENSIVE”, “THE PERFECT KEYBOARD”, “END GAME”, or “RUBBER DOME”. It’s a keyboard that has brought polarizing opinion throughout the mechanical keyboard community. This keyboard has become such a status symbol and example of minimalistic Japanese design

The HHKB Professional 2. Speak those words, and your thoughts may include “TOO EXPENSIVE”, “THE PERFECT KEYBOARD”, “END GAME”, or “RUBBER DOME”. It’s a keyboard that has brought polarizing opinion throughout the mechanical keyboard community. This keyboard has become such a status symbol and example of minimalistic Japanese design that it even has its own Wikipedia page.

WHAT’S INCLUDED

Keyboard itself

Mini USB Cable - 1.8m long

20th anniversary stickers

Japanese manual

Made in Japan

BUILD

When the HHKB Pro 2 was released in 2006, aluminum cases on keyboards were not as prevalent. This fully-plastic design makes the HHKB a little outdated. Plastic does make the keyboard lighter and better for travel, however. The cheaper build quality pairs decently with Topre, and this combination produces the signature Happy Hacking sound and feel. Personally, I want to see a metal case, plate, or both.

The case doesn’t flex much, although the plastic does creak a bit. There is a small gap between the top and bottom portions of the case.

PFU Limited’s most recent keyboard introduced Bluetooth connectivity, but the design has largely been unchanged, aside from an unsightly hump added to the back.

LAYOUT

Dr. Eiiti Wada, a computer scientist professor at the University of Tokyo, pioneered the 60% small form factor keyboard by producing a layout still relevant today. The compact layout was used for the first HHKB, which included membrane switches, in 1996. In 2003, PFU Limited introduced the HHKB Professional model which included Topre switches.

60% symmetrical layout

Takes some time to get used to, but the layout is natural to use and everything is within reach of the home row.

My left hand is still getting used to doing key combos, and some of them feel awkward.

The two major differences between this and a standard ANSI layout is that “Control” and “Backspace” have moved. Control is found where your Caps Lock key would be, and Backspace is on a function layer underneath the delete key. This can be changed with a dip-switch to allow you to backspace more conveniently.

Even though the keycaps are blank, I had no problem adjusting to the layout and remembering the function layer. It’s all very logical. I love the backspace position after flipping the dip-switch. The control key I’m a bit indifferent about. Key combos took a bit more time to relearn with the control key location.

KEYCAPS

Grey and white, or dark grey

Textured

Dye-sub printing

PBT

Spacebar is ABS

Great keycaps.

Topre keycap sets are rare, however. If you want to customize your keyboard with MX Keycaps you’ll need adapters which are expensive, will affect the feel of the keyboard, and won’t work on the spacebar.

KEYSWITCHES

Topre sounds and feels amazing. They’re light, tactile, and smooth. While the switch technically includes a rubber dome it’s not as strenuous or tiring as a cheap membrane keyboard. You still bottom out, but the switch is designed for it. After pressing the key, they “Pop” back into place. You don’t feel like you're mashing the keys down forcefully like on a typical rubber dome.

Topre Electrostatic Capacitive Key Switches

45g actuation force.

4mm travel distance (same as Cherry switches)

Switches are mounted to the top of the plastic case, and there is no metal plate.

Compared to the Realforce 55g, the HHKB produces a lighter, snappier, louder response. The Realforce is heavier, lower tone, and has more of a "thunk". This is due to the steel plate. It’s a subtle difference that is easy to notice over long periods of typing. In fact, the HHKB might be better for longer typing sessions because the switches are lighter, and less effort is required to type. I’d like to try 45g domes on the Realforce, but it is not an available option.

Pros:

Great keycaps.

Reliable.

Great switches.

Indifferent:

Unique layout.

No backlighting.

Non-powered USB ports.

Cons:

Non-existent programming.

No aluminum case or metal plate.

Extra features not available to Windows. Built for Mac first.

ABS spacebar.

CONCLUSION:

This keyboard is the pioneer of minimal keyboards, but I’d like to see some changes made to modernize it. I want built-in programming and layout control. I’d like to see an aluminum case and steel plate, but in the same exact profile and design. No visible logo would be nice, and a smaller label on the bottom. I don’t even want the USB ports, they add clutter. I’d like a Bluetooth model that doesn’t have a giant ugly hump sticking out the back. If it saves space, I’d get rid of the cheap plastic flip-out feet and use that for extra built-in battery or the Bluetooth receiver. I want USB-Type C. A PBT spacebar. And I don't want them to increase the price further to add these features.

The Realforce seems like a better value because of the steel plate, and the heavier 55g switches appeal to me more. The standard tenkeyless layout is admittedly more practical for more scenarios.

I would only seriously consider this keyboard if you have money to spare, use a Mac, don’t mind a fully plastic design, and love minimalism. This keyboard’s switches, keycaps, and layout is fantastic, but the HHKB is aging. PFU Limited (Fujitsu) needs to update a few things to keep this keyboard competitive.

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be taking a look at the new Cherry Silent switches! The Cherry MX Silent switches were first exclusively used on Corsair keyboards, but now they are available for any manufacturer to use. Cherry has given me their own G80-3000 keyboard with

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be taking a look at the new Cherry Silent switches! The Cherry MX Silent switches were first exclusively used on Corsair keyboards, but now they are available for any manufacturer to use. Cherry has given me their own G80-3000 keyboard with Cherry MX Black switches to demo today.

SWITCHES

These switches are linear and mimic Cherry MX Black and Cherry MX Red switches. Both have the same actuation force as their non-silent versions, 45cN for MX Red and 60 cN for MX Black. The actuation point is also the same at 2mm.

To distinguish them, Cherry MX Silent Black switches are a dark gray color, and Cherry MX Silent Red switches are a light red or pink color. They are also available in RGB versions with clear housings.

What has Cherry done to make these switches quieter? Cherry MX Silent switches have a TPE dampener built right into the switch stem. This dampener reduces both top out noise and bottom out noise. Top out noise is the noise that occurs when the switch returns to its original unpressed state. Bottom out noise is when you press the switch to its furthest point.

Key travel is reduced from 4mm to 3.7mm on the Silent switches. This reduction in travel distance is much less than adding o-rings to your keyboard. O-rings generally start at 1.5mm and go up to 3mm, which often only work with taller OEM keycaps instead of lower profile Cherry style keycaps.

I've tried O-rings before, and I wouldn't recommend them. If you want to reduce bottom out noise on any Cherry style switch, I would recommend checking out EliteKeyboard's landing pads. O-rings and landing pads only reduce the noise when bottoming out, but there's also GMK QMX-Clip sound dampeners or Zealencio silencing clips that quiet both the upstroke and the downstroke when typing. Zealencios reduce travel by 0.9mm, and QMX-Clips only work on PCB mounted switches. I haven't tried either of them, so I can't say whether or not you'll like them.

I can certainly feel the dampener in the switch. It's not quite as tactile compared to the non-silent Cherry MX Red. However, if you really need a quieter keyboard this is a great option. These switches feel much better than adding an O-ring or landing pad to your keyboard.

Is this the quietest switch? They aren't silent like the name suggests, but they are much quieter. However, the plate, case, and keycaps of the keyboard you use can all change the sound of your keyboard dramatically. I've compared the switches using the same exact keyboard, the Corsair Strafe, to make sure you can hear the difference on the same keyboard. These switches may be quieter or louder in a different keyboard, however.

I've tested how loud each switch is using a decibel meter in this chart below:

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Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be reviewing the Planck keyboard. This keyboard is designed by Jack Humbert of Ortholinear Keyboards (OLKB), and is produced by Massdrop. I want to thank Massdrop for sending this to me for a review!

KIT OPTIONS

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be reviewing the Planck keyboard. This keyboard is designed by Jack Humbert of Ortholinear Keyboards (OLKB), and is produced by Massdrop. I want to thank Massdrop for sending this to me for a review!

KIT OPTIONS

This keyboard is a DIY kit! Included in your kit is an anodized CNC aluminum case (Black, Green, Gunmetal, Silver), a steel plate (Cherry or Matias), a PCB, a Mini-B USB cable, and your choice of keycaps and switches.

SWITCHES

Matias switches require a different plate and keycap set, which you can select when configuring the Planck.

KEYCAPS

The keycaps available in the Massdrop are the following: Beige XDA PBT blanks (with or without black mods); black, white, or mixed ABS OEM blanks; black, white, or mixed Matias OEM blanks.

The keycaps included in this review are white DSA PBT blanks. DSA Profile keycaps are spherical, shallow, and spaced out evenly. The only thing missing is a home row bump.

LAYOUT

The Planck has a compact 40% layout with only 47 keys. The Massdrop offering uses the MIT layout with a 2U key for spacebar. OLKB also sells a grid layout, which removes the 2U key to have 48 keys. In both layouts, the keys are on an ortholinear grid instead of a standard staggered layout.

The 2U key does not come with a stabilizer, although it's unnecessary (but optional) at this key-size. I tried using a plate mounted Cherry stabilizer of my own, but ended up removing it.

With a keyboard this small, you'll need layers to get to the functions you need. The default keymap has 4 layers, but these layers are not set in stone. Everything can be programmed using the QMK firmware.

What are the benefits of a tiny ortholinear 40% layout? A keyboard this small will certainly reduce finger travel, and therefore make typing more efficient and possibly reduce RSI. However, any 40% keyboard could make the same claim, even without an ortholinear layout. There are no studies proving an alignment of keys in a grid formation reduces RSI. However, a grid does make things easier if you are designing custom keymaps or macros.

The only reason we have staggered layouts on modern keyboards is because of typewriters in the past. Conceptually, this keyboard makes a lot of sense, but habits are hard to break. I would highly recommend getting a keycap set that isn't blank if you're not used to the ortholinear layout and plan to use this keyboard for typing.

BUILD

The case is sharp. It's matte black anodized CNC aluminum with clean, square edges. Maybe I'm boring, but I love simple cases like this. No fluff, just a nice enclosure to keep your PCB safe. I will admit, I'd love to see the green and gunmetal cases in person.

A Mini-B USB connector is used instead of a Micro-USB connector, and I'm happy they went this route (Micro-USB is the enemy). Type-C would have been nice, but that would have added unnecessary cost.

The PCB included in the Massdrop will be matte white not black as shown.

This keyboard has a built-in, programmable speaker! You can't get much cooler than that.

The Planck's plate is top notch, and possibly my favorite. The material used is 16 gauge 304 stainless steel. The right plate enhances the sound and feel of the switches in the best way possible, and the plate used on the Planck is just right (Thanks Jack!).

In my opinion: In all of the keyboards I've tested, the best keyboards use steel. Once a manufacturer switches to an aluminum plate (or worse, no plate), the keyboard doesn't feel as high quality anymore. I think it's even more important than the case, which I don't think every manufacturer realizes.

PROGRAMMING

Some keyboards mention programming and don't really mean it. The Planck is true to the definition of the word, so get ready to do some reading. You will need to have some free time and some knowledge (or patience to learn) about the terminal and Objective-C. If you're willing to learn, you can program this keyboard to do virtually anything you want.

The information you'll need is not on one web page or file, and that's the biggest hurdle when it comes to programming this keyboard. I really hope that I can find the time to sift through the information, learn it myself, and share it in a future video or written review.

CONCLUSION

I'll be honest. Typing on this keyboard is incredibly challenging for me. I've learned to type on staggered key layouts my entire life, and the ortholinear layout isn't helping my words per minute. I might be able to relearn how to type if I spent a lot of time, but I won't be able to properly type for quite awhile. Because I switch between so many different keyboards, all of which have staggered layouts, I don't see myself using this as my main keyboard.

All that being said, I do see this keyboard as a fantastic macro board for Premiere, Photoshop, or any other shortcut thirsty applications. With the QMK firmware, the programming possibilities are endless. Because it's so small, I can keep it with me while on the go or just on my desk as a second keyboard strictly for this purpose. I could see this keyboard filled with DSA Relegendable keycaps, such as these.

The DIY nature of the Planck kit is just cool, and I loved assembling the keyboard, soldering the components together, and typing (or attempting to type) on something that I put together. When it comes time to learn the code, I think I'll find that I love keeping a place for it on my desk.

Thanks again to Massdrop for sending this to me to review! If you're interested in purchasing the Planck you can find it here.

Included in the box (a very nice box) you’ll receive the keyboard itself and a 5 ft micro usb cable. A printed manual will most likely be included as well. Mine didn’t come with one because they sent me the PDF version.

Switches

The switch options are Cherry MX Black, Blue, Brown, Red and Clear.

This one has Cherry MX Blue with the clear housing.

The only switch that includes a stabilizer is the 2.75U space bar, which is a plate mounted Cherry style stabilizer. Like the POK3R RGB keyboard, the stabilizers appear to be made by someone other than Cherry. It seems more responsive than a Cherry stabilizer normally is, and the stem is clear instead of black (or orange, like the POK3R RGB).

Layout

This keyboard has a tiny 40% layout with only 47 keys. It includes a split spacebar and 4 layers, 3 of which can be programmed. I highly recommend taking a look at the manual to get a better idea of exactly what the layout looks like.

There are 2 function layers, which are separate from the 3 programmable layers. One of them has numbers and F1-F12, while the other includes the arrow keys, media control, volume, calculator, program layer selection, and Home, End, Page Up, Page Down.

There’s also technically a third function layer, but it only includes your symbols and special characters. You get to it by pressing shift + Fn1 (red text). The manual is incorrect on the location of your symbols, as they are actually on the 2nd row instead of the top row.

The bottom row has a 1.25u Ctrl, 1u Win, 1u Alt, 1u Pn, 1.75u space, 2.75u space, 1u Fn, 1u Alt, 1u Menu, and 1.25u Ctrl. It will be very difficult to find replacement keycaps, but the keycaps included are excellent. More on them in a minute.

The split spacebar is comfortable to use with both my right and left thumbs.
There is a very small 1u backspace key, but you gain a dedicated delete key by making this sacrifice. Because the backspace is in the top right corner, I still hit it accurately once I got used to the layout.

While the symbol locations take two keys to access (Shift + Fn), it’s the sacrifice that has to be made in any keyboard this small. Plus, it’s good for me to put some effort toward learning the locations of the symbols with no lettering.

Keycaps

The keycaps are Dye-Sublimated PBT with a DSA Profile.

Dye-sublimated is the lettering printing method used. This method dyes the letters into the keycap creating a permanent letter that cannot wear or fade away over time.

PBT is the plastic used. It is more durable, has a slightly rougher texture, and is less likely to shine over ABS plastic.

DSA Profile is the shape of the keycaps. They are spherical, shallow, and spaced out evenly with a bit more space in-between each keycap. It takes a little time to get used to them, with a smaller target area on top to hit with your fingers. Other than a missing home row bump, I like them. It’s hard to beat the more sculpted shape of Cherry profile for typing, but DSA looks great.

I especially love the classic beige colors used, and I don’t ever see myself changing the keycaps on this particular keyboard.

Backlighting

There will be RGB backlighting available on some models. Those models will includes switches with clear housings.

Programming

In general, I haven’t been impressed by programming on most keyboards. The software is always the problem: it’s available only on one platform, it’s buggy, or it’s too geeky. Vortex solves this problem by avoiding software all-together. Yes, this keyboard can be programmed without flashing the firmware or requiring software.

The only issue I found so far was that the space bar cannot be programmed differently than the right spacebar. With so many layers, this would make the most sense. Vortex has said that a new firmware will be released if need be, and I really hope they do. As it stands with the current firmware, there is not much reason for the split spacebar.

Build

There are round rubber feet with no angle adjustment, so this keyboard will be sitting flat unless you modify it. This is perfect for me, but I know some people like to type with a slight angle.

There is a micro usb connection on the back left of the keyboard. It would be great to see USB-C in the future.

The keyboard weighs 14.6 oz (414 g). It’s very light and great for traveling. It could be lighter if they used an aluminum plate instead of steel, but the steel plate is a selling point for me. Aluminum plates just don’t feel quite as solid to type on (because they literally aren’t, aluminum is a softer metal).

There are 5 mounting points for screwing the PCB and plate into the case, which are hidden underneath the keycaps and between the switches.

Conclusion

While I have played with small keyboards before, this is a great implementation of the 40% layout. Yes, sacrifices have to be made, but Vortex keeps the keyboard incredibly functional with hardware based programming and multiple layers. This is about as small as you can get without making typing a chore, and I absolutely love it.

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be taking a look at a brand new keyboard from Glorious PC Gaming Race. It's the first keyboard on the market to include modular, hot-swappable switches!

WHAT'S INCLUDED

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today I'm going to be taking a look at a brand new keyboard from Glorious PC Gaming Race. It's the first keyboard on the market to include modular, hot-swappable switches!

WHAT'S INCLUDED

Included in the box you'll find the keyboard itself, a user guide, a how to replace switches guide, a key puller, tweezers, switch remover, a sticker, and an extra escape key. In my case, I also received a sampling of the various Gateron switches.

SWITCHES

As I pointed out right away in my intro, what's unique about this keyboard is the fact that it is modular! Every individual switch is completely hot-swappable. This means that you can remove a switch just as you would remove a keycap (with a slightly different tool), even while the keyboard is plugged into your computer. Any plate mounted Cherry style switches are compatible. To name a few: Cherry, Gateron, Kailh, and Zealios. However, I am sure there are more that can be listed. The keyboard comes with Gateron Brown switches, but they also offer Gateron switch packs in other varieties for around $30. They have Gateron Black, Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, and Red.

These Gateron Browns are 45g with a tactile bump, much like Cherry MX Browns. I don't have a lot of experience with Gateron switches, but these Gateron Browns feel slightly smoother with a higher actuation point than Cherry MX Browns. They also present a fantastic value. $30 for a whole new set of switches for your keyboard is certainly much cheaper than buying an entirely new keyboard.

You'll also want to make sure to use SMD-LED compatible switches (switches with a clear housing) unless you don't care to see the backlighting. Cherry switches with the standard black housing don't let any light through them, and you won't see any backlighting effect.

You do want to be careful when removing the switches, as it could be easy to scratch up the back plate with the metal tool. All you need to do is pinch in the two small tabs on the switch and pull up. It's not quite as easy as pulling off a keycap, but it's way faster than re-soldering everything.

Each switch has two small pins which you'll want to check to make sure they are straight and not bent. If they are, you can use the included tweezers to carefully bend them back. Not a big deal. It happens in shipping. I've had to do it before when I built the WhiteFox keyboard.

BUILD QUALITY

For this price point, the build quality is right where I would expect. The base is plastic, but they do include a matte black sandblasted aluminum plate that gives it a slightly more premium feel. It has a low profile "floating-key" design, which a lot of people love, and no branding (THANK YOU)! They also added a chrome finish to the edge of the case to give it a little bit of bling. I've had wires or cables snag under the keycaps occasionally, but I still would keep the design the way it is. It looks really nice, and I'm sure it's also much easier to replace switches without a bulky case in the way.

On the bottom of the case, there are cable management routes, a keycap puller storage spot, rubber feet, and flip-out feet with rubber ends.

The cable is non-removable, but making it non-removable has provided them the opportunity to give us a really sleek gold-plated braided USB cable that looks really durable.

LAYOUT

This keyboard has a standard 104-Key ANSI layout. As this is their first debut into mechanical keyboards, I understand why they started with this layout. I would love to see a TKL and 60% in the future!

The dimensions are 5" x 17 1/4" x 7/8". With the feet, it's 1 1/4" tall. The keyboard weighs just 30.5oz. To put that into perspective, the Ducky Zero weighs 42oz. For it's size, this keyboard is quite light.

KEYCAPS

I don't want to be too harsh because they aren't that bad, but the keycaps are probably my least favorite aspect of the keyboard. They are double-shot ABS, but they use a gamer-centric font that's kind of tacky in my opinion. The sides of the keycaps are also glossy, which I'm not a fan of, and could get scratched easily when removing them. I would never use the plastic keycap puller that's included if you want to prevent that from happening. Wire key pullers are worth the investment.

OTHER NOTABLE THINGS

The keyboard includes red SMD-LED backlighting, which goes nicely with the black and red theme they have going with the included Ascend escape key and small indicator LEDs in the top right. The backlighting has 7 modes, but no brightness adjustment. The modes are the following:

CONCLUSION

I think this keyboard is great for people who want to try new switches without amassing a huge collection of more and more keyboards. Hence, on their product page, Glorious PC has stated: "This will be the last keyboard you will ever buy." We all know, for a lot of us, that it won't be. However, for those who haven't fallen into the mechanical keyboard addiction too far already, this could be a great keyboard to start and end with.

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Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today we're going to be taking a look at a new keycap set. This is not just a new color or design made from materials we're previously familiar with. This keycap set is made out silicone gel, a material that I have never seen used

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today we're going to be taking a look at a new keycap set. This is not just a new color or design made from materials we're previously familiar with. This keycap set is made out silicone gel, a material that I have never seen used to create keycaps.

I don't know what I expected when I took them out of the tray, but when I first picked them up I was surprised at how different they were! I expected keycaps that were slightly softer, maybe, but not nearly as soft and flexible.

For reference, the Gem Artisan keycap is made out of Silica gel, and at first I thought these keycaps would be very similar to that keycap, but I was wrong. Silicone gel and silica gel are two different things.

When typing, they seem to absorb more of the impact when bottoming out, which certainly makes things quieter, but it takes more energy to press a key because of this. They even have a grippier feel, which some may like, but I think it contributes to my slower typing speed. Sometimes my fingers seem to catch or trip up on keys because of the grippiness.

None of the keycaps have any lettering printed on them, which keeps the design nice and clean, but may bother those who can't touch type. I like the color choice I went with, which is "Green Heavy". They also have "Blue Heavy" and "Pink Heavy", which is self explanatory.

Because the material is so soft, certain keycaps already show slight wear (fingernails being the main culprit).

In conclusion, they look incredibly cool, they're fun, and certainly very unique. However, for practical reasons I will be going back to my PBT keycap set.

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Hello everyone; welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today I'm going to be taking a look at the MiniVan keyboard, a tiny keyboard designed by Evan Sailer. It's the smallest keyboard I've ever reviewed! It only has 44 or 45 keys, depending if you choose the standard layout or arrow key

Hello everyone; welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today I'm going to be taking a look at the MiniVan keyboard, a tiny keyboard designed by Evan Sailer. It's the smallest keyboard I've ever reviewed! It only has 44 or 45 keys, depending if you choose the standard layout or arrow key layout. This keyboard is sold as a kit, so make sure to bring your soldering iron!

Switches and Options

To start, my review model has Cherry MX Tactile Grey switches. These are not available in the drop, but they have a barebones kit option where you can bring your own switches as long as they are Cherry MX, Matias, Gateron, or Zealios. Otherwise your switch options are Cherry Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, Red; Gateron Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, Red; Matias Quiet Click (tactile); Matias Click; and Zealios 65g Tactile (Purple).

Build quality

Using a CNC aluminum plate and case, the build is made out of materials that match other high-end keyboards on the market. They include cone feet for the bottom, and at first I thought they were the same exact design as found on the WhiteFox keyboard, but they are actually a bit shorter so that they don't create too much of an angle for a keyboard this size. Genius. There are 3 case and plate color options: black, silver or turqoise. The turqoise case matches a new black and turqoise DSA keycap set called Light-cycle that can be ordered along with the keyboard.

Layout

This keyboard is a 40% keyboard, and it's tiny. You are giving up quite a few keys, and that might scare you. However, there are some benefits to having a keyboard this small.

For one, this would be an even better travel board. It's even smaller and lighter then the POK3R, so it's a nicer size to bring with you and type while on the go.

Another bonus is the fact that your hands will never have to reach far for any function, or even leave the home row for that matter. And, once you learn each function layer, you probably won't find that it slows you down much. I didn't have a ton of time with this keyboard, but I was starting to get the hang of it after just a few hours of use. Symbols and other characters still tripped me up quite a bit, admittedly. Evan (the keyboard designer) has made the function layer include a full mock keypad by positioning the numbers right on the home row on the second function layer, so I had no trouble with numbers. It helps to have a print out of your layout next to your computer just in case you need to reference it until you've practiced enough.

I do like how they managed to fit dedicated arrow keys in a board this small. To do this, they had to use the space where your right shift key would be. If you really need a right shift key, you can obviously go with the standard layout, or just reprogram an arrow key to be right shift. If you go with the standard layout, you'll have a forward slash key and right shift key instead of the arrow keys. Still, I do like the arrow key layout. It's a trade off you'll just have to decide whether you want to go with or not.

Programming

One of the top features of the keyboard is the fact that you can program it to suit your work style. There are 2 function layers. The default layout is very well done. A lot of thought was put into the positioning of the keys already, and I like the choices made. That's not to say you shouldn't tweak it a little bit, obviously, as it will all be available to change. Unfortunately, at this time I cannot show you the programming features because configuring and compiling the firmware was a little over my head (for now, I promise I'll learn). Plus, I simply did not have time to figure it out for this review. Once the drop is complete and I have my own MiniVan, I will create a separate video on it and update this portion of the review.

In essence, programming will be available for those who have the technical knowledge to dig in and control every aspect of the keyboards functionality. Right now it takes a little time to figure everything out.

Keycaps

The keycaps are the DSA Granite set, which is a dye-sublimated PBT set made by Signature Plastics. Now, these particular keycaps are not an option in the group buy, but you will be able to find them on PimpMyKeyboard.com in a few weeks.

This is the first time I've typed on DSA style keycaps. I actually kinda like them. I think your fingers settle in to their shape quite nicely. Your other keycap options include a blank PBT set, a laser etched PBT set, or the doubleshot DSA LightCycle set, which is a very cool black and turqoise themed set that will match the turquoise case option.

Other Notable Things

I love the position of the enter key. It finally gives my left thumb something to do! I wish all keyboards had a split spacebar / enter key combo like this.

Conclusion

Getting used to the layout at first takes a little bit of time, but it's very nice to be able to keep your hands on the home row at all times. You no longer need to stretch your fingers so far or move your hands so much to reach everything. All the functionality is there despite the size, and if you use a keyboard for hours every day, you'll learn each function layer pretty quickly.

Thanks to Massdrop for sending this out for review! If you're interested in picking up the MiniVan keyboard you can find it at this link.

]]>Hello, everyone. Welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today we're going to take a look at the latest update to the POK3R mechanical keyboard and see what's changed in this new RGB model. There is a lot about the keyboard that is the same, but also a few major things that]]>http://rhinofeed.com/vortex-pok3r-rgb-review/19dd0744-0259-4876-bcf2-7699d1cc4439Sat, 18 Jun 2016 21:49:50 GMT

Hello, everyone. Welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today we're going to take a look at the latest update to the POK3R mechanical keyboard and see what's changed in this new RGB model. There is a lot about the keyboard that is the same, but also a few major things that have changed. In this review, I will only be going over the new features and changes of the RGB model in particular. I encourage you to check out my previous review of the POK3R to see the function layer, layout, programming features, dip switches, and any other notable features.

Just like last time, you receive the keyboard itself and a USB cable. The price point is a bit higher at $139.00, which is $10 more than last years model, most likely due to the cost of the RGB switches. Availability to the public will be pushed to the end of June 2016.

SWITCHES

The switches available will be Cherry MX Blue, Brown, Red, Black, and Nature White, all with the new clear housing made for RGB lighting. Nature White is a relatively new linear switch (non-clicky, no tactile bump) that has an actuation force of 55cN, which is in between Cherry MX Red (45cN) and Cherry MX Black (60cN).

This particular keyboard has Cherry MX Blues. I would like to get my hands on the Nature White version in the near future. Cherry MX Clears are one of my favorite switches, and Nature White could be a good complimentary switch considering it has the same actuation force. Cherry MX Clears will not be available, however, because Cherry doesn't make an RGB version (let's hope they do in the future).

BUILD

They've kept the cast aluminum case standard, which I am very pleased with. I did notice that the case appears to have a slightly glossier finish than the previous keyboard. It looks and feels high quality, giving the keyboard a very solid construction. It's still one of the best selling points of the POK3R keyboard.

No changes have been made to the positioning of the screws, so it is still compatible with after-market 60% cases. They've also gone back to using standard Philips, which is much appreciated. However, if you have a thin case that is supposed to line up perfectly with the steel plate, I don't think it will sit flush with the edge of the case. Vortex had to add an additional PCB for the LED lighting, which adds roughly 1-2mm thickness to the overall build.

Another notable difference is the white steel backplate. White reflects the backlighting much better than a black steel plate would, which is probably the reason Vortex went with that color choice.

KEYCAPS

Unlike the previous POK3R model, Vortex has used doubleshot ABS keycaps for the RGB keyboard. Vortex is no longer using the thick PBT keycaps like on the non-backlit model. These keycaps are thicker than most doubleshot ABS, but they are still not quite as satisfying to type on as the PBT keycaps. I was surprised that they didn't use their PBT + POM keycaps that are made for backlighting, and I would rather use them for typing each day. I will do a sound test that includes typing on the included doubleshot ABS keycaps as well as the PBT + POM keycaps so that you can hear the difference.

SOUND TEST

The font on these keycaps is some sort of modified version of Arial Rounded. Therefore, Vortex is no longer using Bank Gothic. The numbers and symbols are aligned horizontally vs. one right above the other, and the larger modifier keys no longer have the full words written out but only representative icons. This is most likely to prevent any gradual light fade you might see if the lettering is too far away from the switch lighting.

They've also included light pass through dots on the spacebar, which do give you a gradual light fade effect as they get farther from the RGB switch, but they also show the color of the programmed function layer you're on.

One question I have received a lot in the past is how do you change the position of the arrow keys back to WASD. To do that, all you have to do is assign them to a programmed layer which I go over in my previous review. However, in the latest firmware update to the POK3R and POK3R RGB keyboards, you can get to your arrow keys another way by pressing Left Win + Right Alt + Spacebar. This key command will switch between having the arrow keys always on or off. The arrow keys, in this mode, are located on your right shift, right control, Fn, and Pn keys.

You also have volume control built-in, which is not labeled on the keycaps. Fn + S is volume down, Fn + D is volume up, and Fn + F is mute.

RGB LIGHTING

It's the reason we're all here today. Let's finally check out the RGB lighting! There are six single LED modes where each key is illuminated one at a time, four full keyboard LED modes, and two custom programmed LED modes. I will explain the features of the backlighting in this review, but I encourage you to check out my full video review to see all of the modes in action!

The full keyboard LED modes can be switched by pressing Pn + 5.
1. Full key in single color
2. Full key in single color breath mode
3. Vortex mode
4. Rain drop mode

The two programmable layers reside on the "-" and "=" keys, but editing them requires the "9" and "0" keys. Due note that any lighting programmed on the "9" layer can be recorded as individual keys, while anything programmed on the "0" layer can only be recorded as an entire row of color. Also, every programmed function layer can have their own two custom backlighting modes. Since the keyboard has 4 function layers total, you effectively have 8 total layers of custom lighting (4 individual key custom, and 4 row-by-row custom). The best part: all of your backlighting is saved on board with no software required.

The only downfall I find is that each programmed function layer has an LED color that stays illuminated underneath the spacebar. Layer two will illuminate red, layer three is green, and layer four is blue. These colors may clash with the colors you chose for your custom backlighting.

In all of these modes, there are a couple different ways to select your color. First, there is a built-in palette of colors you can choose from by pressing Pn + Esc. This is the easiest way to pick your color. The other way is to mix your own color by combining Red, Green, and Blue. Each time you press the Pn key (the keycap with the diamond icon on the bottom row) plus the 1, 2, or 3 keys, you can add in more of each color up to 6 brightness levels. For example, if you wanted a bright purple, you would press Pn + 1 (six times) and Pn + 3 (six times), but you would not press Pn + 2. Otherwise, you would add green into the mix and start to get white. Once you've selected a color, it is saved in the onboard memory until you change it to something else.

You can adjust the brightness level of the LEDs by pressing Pn + X (lower) or Pn + V (raise), although it doesn't seem to adjust brightness for the custom layers. I'm wondering if this was missed as part of the firmware, and I have asked Vortex if it was supposed to be included.

Lastly, you can adjust the LED speed for the animated backlighting modes by pressing Pn + "," (speeds up) or Pn + "." (slows down).

To make it easier to understand, here is the Pn layer shown below.

CONCLUSION

All in all, Vortex kept the update relatively simple despite this review being so lengthy. The addition of Cherry RGB switches will make a lot of people excited while a few others may just want to keep it simple without all the flashy colors. I wish they had gone with PBT + POM keycaps, but other than that, I can't find anything else I don't like about this keyboard. They kept the same great build quality, incredible feature set, and added new RGB switches. What more can I say?

Thanks again for being a Rhinofeed fan, and thanks to Vortex for sending this out for review! If you have any questions please ask away in the comments section.

Let's start with the ergonomics. The shape is designed for right handed use only, but the shape is made to work with all grip styles. Personally, I prefer the slightly flatter and wider shape on the Corsair M45 for fingertip grip. I feel like this mouse is better suited for palm grip. I love the thumb rest on the G502, but my ring and pinky finger feel cramped. I do have pretty long fingers, so that could be why.

Logitech's specs say the weight of the mouse without the extra weights or cable is 121 grams. I did my own testing and it was closer to 128 grams. This is just a bit too heavy for my tastes, even before adding the extra 5 3.6 gram weights that are included. If you really wanted to add those weights, it would make the mouse 145 grams in my testing. In contrast, I use the M45 with no weights installed, and it is only 98 grams. You can install the weights easily by lifting off the cover in the bottom of the mouse. The cover even has a magnet that will keep it closed.

Every button is well placed. You'll find dpi adjustment buttons to the left of your clicker, the hyper fast scroll wheel in the middle, which has both a middle click and tilt for horizontal scrolling. Underneath that there is a button that switches from hyper fast mode to clicky mode, and then you will find the profile switcher button. There are back and forward buttons on the left side, and also a quick dpi adjustment button which is both easy to reach and not in your way - I've never accidentally hit it. Your right and left clicks have omron switches with a consistent feel across the entire clicker button.

There's a few LEDs on the mouse. You'll find the Logitech G logo and the DPI adjustment bars. Interestingly, these turn a darker blue color when you're changing profiles, but they are a lighter blue color when changing DPI. You can turn off the G logo led entirely, which is a nice option if you don't want distracting LEDs.

It's top feature is the sensor, which is the PMW33660M. This is an optical IR-LED that runs all the way up to 12,000 dpi with no smoothing or acceleration. There's not a lot say other than... it's impressive. I loved the performance and feel of this sensor. In fact, it's the only other sensor I've tried that feels just as responsive and accurate as the PMW3310, which used to be my favorite sensor of all time. All that being said, I would never use it at 12,000 dpi. That's gotta be there just for bragging rights.

It also has a high quality braided cable that's much thicker than most. We'll see over the long term, but I expect it to be incredibly durable. Personally, I don't find it getting in the way or feeling heavy, but I've always used corded mice.

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Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed. Today I'm going to be taking a look at the Triumph Adler keyset. This was a group effort between Intelli78 — or Keychatter — Massdrop, and GMK. GMK owns the original machinery that made Cherry keycaps 33 years ago.

Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed. Today I'm going to be taking a look at the Triumph Adler keyset. This was a group effort between Intelli78 — or Keychatter — Massdrop, and GMK. GMK owns the original machinery that made Cherry keycaps 33 years ago.

Because of the unique teal color that was produced by the original aged plastic on the Triumph Adler Dario 286, this was the first GMK group buy that had to be made with a custom color. It uses a standard English ANSI layout, instead of the original German lettering. You also receive ISO keys, a teal backslash key, and teal spacebars.

These are ABS. Thick, high quality, ABS. Not cheap thin ABS. They aren't very textured, especially after using my Realforce, but maybe you like your keycaps fairly smooth.

Massdrop made a big mistake. They used the display trays as shipping containers, without adding much other than bubble wrap and a few pieces of scotch tape. Not only that, but the box they used was low quality. It was smashed quite a bit. Mine, like many others, was a mess when I received it.

Luckily, I only found just a couple scratches on the keys on closer inspection. There are other issues, however, which are due to GMK specifically. First, many have reported that there are burs left on the keys from manufacturing. Secondly, backlit keyboards are a no-go. Last but not least, the custom grey color they used looks as though it was not properly mixed, and you have swirling going on. I expected better from GMK, a German company, and especially surrounding all the hype around this key set. It's beautiful, but I still feel a little disappointed in the end result.

My own nitpicks are that they didn't use ROW 5 keys for the bottom row, but they used ROW 4 keys on everything except your arrows and num pad keys. I also would have loved if they used the original symbols and no lettering for shift, caps lock, tab, backspace, enter, num lock, and math symbols. I do understand why they didn't because of the cost of manufacturing, however.

They've also used dished homing keys instead of the typical home row bump. At first, this caught me off guard, but I'm getting used to it and it's a nice change of pace.

I should also mention that the lettering is doubleshot, which is a very durable way of molding two plastics together to create both the lettering and the key itself. You can read more about it on the Deskthority wiki.

Other than that, I will have a sound test comparison between this set of keycaps vs. a set of thick pbt keycaps that I originally purchased from Ivan's group buy on Geekhack. The keyboard of choice will be the POK3R with Cherry MX Clears and the stock aluminum case.

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Hello everyone; welcome to Rhinofeed! Today we are going to review my first Topre keyboard, the Realforce 87UB55!

Included in the box you'll find a Japanese manual (no English), a metal key puller, a Ctrl key, and a Caps Lock key. I would recommend against using the metal keypuller, as

Included in the box you'll find a Japanese manual (no English), a metal key puller, a Ctrl key, and a Caps Lock key. I would recommend against using the metal keypuller, as I have heard it's very easy to scrape up your keycaps. Use a wire keypuller instead.

SWITCHES

Let's talk about the best part first — the switches! These are Japanese Topre, or Electrostatic Capacitive, key switches. They utilize a conical spring with a rubber dome that provides a snappy yet cushioned key feel. Theoretically, over long periods of typing, this rubber dome allows your fingers to feel less stressed as you're typing. I think this is true, even though the weight of the switch is heavier than Cherry MX Red, Blue, and Brown switches (the most common / popular Cherry MX switches which have a force ranging from 45-50cN).

This particular Topre switch is 53.93 cN (55g). As a side note, there is a very slight difference between cN (centinewton) and Gram (gram-force) weighted keys. I'm not sure why different terminology is used, but here is a converter.

I hear you asking (more like yelling) in the background, "Well, Rhinofeed, if this keyboard uses a rubber dome, then why wouldn't you just buy a rubber dome keyboard for 5 bucks instead of spending half your paycheck on a keyboard?!" Good question, and if you can't find a place to try one out in person you'll just have to trust my judgement on this one. The added conical spring mechanism changes the sound and feel in a undeniable way. It's not mushy and slow like a typical rubber dome alone. It has the added feedback of a spring, which we all expect and enjoy when we type on a mechanical keyboard. Don't expect this to feel anything like a Cherry MX board though, it's more of a mix between spring feedback and cushion, with the positive feel.

On the initial down stroke, you first feel a smooth bump (not "sandy" like the MX Brown), but then you'll feel the cushion that the rubber dome provides as you bottom out. When you lift your finger, you'll feel and hear a nice snap of the switch that provides soothing audible feedback. All of this happens in the millisecond that you press a key.

SOUND TEST

What is my personal opinion? These switches are phenomenal for typists. I didn't have to spend a lot of time adjusting to them. I type very accurately, and I don't tire quickly. If you're working all day on the computer, I believe a Topre keyboard would be a great option for you. However, I haven't had a chance to try the 30 to 45 gram weighted version or the 45 gram version of this keyboard in order to to compare. I have tried the Happy Hacking Professional 2 (45 gram) and the Cooler Master Novatouch (45 gram) for about 5 minutes each, and my initial impression led me to this keyboard. Initial impressions could be deceptive, however.

BUILD QUALITY & FEATURES

The case is constructed of solid plastic and has a matte finish and a light texture. The texture hides fingerprints and dust pretty well. I'm always happy when a manufacturer avoids using glossy black plastic.

The Realforce weighs 41.06 oz (including the cable), and the dimensions are 14.4 x 6.6 x 1.5in (366 × 169 × 38 mm). To give you something to compare it with, the POK3R weighs 29.45 oz with the new metal case.

This keyboard has a Tenkeyless layout, which leaves space on your desk for a mouse. Without a numpad in the way, your right wrist doesn't have to be angled as much. This is better for ergonomics.

The switches are mounted to a steel plate which improves the structure, durability, and ultimately the feel of the keyboard.

Each corner of the case has a simple rounded edge.

In the top left corner you'll find the Realforce logo on a light gray label, which is inset into the case to give it that retro feel.

On the bottom you'll find height adjustment feet that do not include rubber for grip. However, the keyboard is sufficiently heavy that it doesn't move around.

There are four small rubber square feet placed at different angles on the case for when your keyboard's position is flat or angled.

A cable track is built into the case so that you can route the 5.25 ft. non-removable cable in three different directions: left, center, or right. Unfortunately the non-removable cable gets in the way when you transport the keyboard back and forth between home and office. The Happy Hacking Professional 2 has a smaller design and removable cable which is better suited for portable use, but it does not have 55g switches.

Lastly, you'll find 4 dip switches that provide extra features. You will need to unplug the keyboard and plug it back in after you've set these to your liking.

DIP 1 swaps your left ctrl key with your caps lock key

DIP 2 will disable your windows and context menu keys

DIP 3 will disable the built-in numeric keypad so you can use scroll lock instead, if you prefer

DIP 4 is firmware update mode

The LEDs on the Caps Lock, Left Ctrl, and Num Lock (also Scroll Lock) keys have a bright blue color, which I quite enjoy. The Left Ctrl LED is only used when you've enabled DIP 1. Both of the extra Caps Lock and Ctrl keys have LED windows.

The built-in numeric keypad (found on a secondary layer) outputs ALT codes for use with custom characters, a feature you don't usually find on a tenkeyless keyboard. I can enable Num Lock and then press ALT + 0151 (for example) on the built in keypad to get an em dash (—), or enter the appropriate code to get other characters from the extended character set (♠♥♦♣).

THE KEYCAPS

Straight up, these are my favorite stock keycaps on any keyboard to date. They are a high quality dark grey PBT plastic with a really nice textured surface. They are not as thick as the stock PBT keycaps found on the POK3R, but they are not paper thin. The texture is the biggest difference in feel.

The black lettering is dye-subliminated, which gives the keycaps a really cool stealth look. However, with black lettering on dark grey, the print is very hard to see. For all practical purposes, you have to be a touch typist to use this keyboard. If you're not a touch typist, Realforce has a white version with black lettering that is much easier to read.

Most Topre keyboards, aside from the Cooler Master Novatouch, require a different keycap stem that is not compatible with Cherry MX keycaps. Therefore, you won't be able to customize your keyboard with your collection of MX keycaps. To me, the stock keycaps are so good to begin with that this is not a big deal.

CONCLUSION

The Realforce 87U is a simple writing, typing machine. It's built like a tank with few extra features. You won't find programming, media keys, back-lighting, function layers, or removable cables, but the switches and incredible build quality make you ask, "Why do I need that stuff?"

This keyboard is aimed towards the professional typist. Paying such a high price for a keyboard if you're a light computer user is unnecessary. That being said… the Japanese Topre switch has won me over, and it's my new favorite keyboard.

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Today I present to you the footage from Keycon 2015, which includes the keyboard collections of various GeekHack members!

Today I present to you the footage from Keycon 2015, which includes the keyboard collections of various GeekHack members!

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Hello everyone. Welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today we're going to be looking at the third iteration of Vortex's most popular keyboard, the Pok3r.

Included in the box are just two things: the keyboard itself and a USB cable. We no longer receive a key puller or RGB keycaps. I'm

]]>http://rhinofeed.com/vortex-pok3r-review/c718ac6d-34c8-4aa0-86df-7377d279410eSun, 29 Mar 2015 21:42:44 GMT
Hello everyone. Welcome to another Rhinofeed review! Today we're going to be looking at the third iteration of Vortex's most popular keyboard, the Pok3r.

Included in the box are just two things: the keyboard itself and a USB cable. We no longer receive a key puller or RGB keycaps. I'm sure they've done this to save on cost, and they've upped their game in other areas. No paper and ink either, so here is a download for the English .pdf manual.

Vortex gives you the option of Cherry MX Black, Blue, Red, Brown, or Clear switches, and you can choose between a white or black case and keycap combo. Backlighting is not currently available, but they may introduce it later with dual-color LEDs. Pricing will range from $119 - $129, depending on what model you choose.

Let's begin with the switches. On this particular keyboard, Vortex sent me Cherry MX Clears! Cherry MX Clears are a tactile, non-clicky switch with an actuation force of 55cN. They are similar to Cherry MX Browns, but they require 10cN more force to actuate. I've been a fan of these switches for nearly six months now, because they provide a peak force of 95cN vs. the peak force of 60cN on Browns. This gives a little more cushion before my fingers inevitably bottom out on the plate.

The biggest improvement to the Pok3r is the low profile cast aluminum case that comes standard! I'm extremely impressed that they've kept the price point nearly the same, but have included this high-quality case. Individual cases can cost nearly $100 alone, so this is an incredible value!

In this case (pun intended), it's finished with a nice clean matte black color. Simple lines on the sides and back, and the edges perfectly align with the plate. The top edge is slightly thicker than the sides, at 5mm. The rest of the edges are 2mm thick.

On the bottom you'll find four rubber feet to help the keyboard "stick" to your desk, a cut-out for the DIP switches, and a metal badge including the Pok3r logo and the "Enjoy your feeling" phrase. "Engineering sample" is engraved on my review model, but in shipping units this will be replaced with the serial number and model number.

The original plastic case on the Poker II weighs in at 4.66 oz, while the new aluminum case (with interior plastic shield) weighs 13.58 oz.

To remove the keyboard out of the case, you'll need a 1/16" allen wrench and a strong magnet (which will make your life easier). There are 6 screws total: one on each side, one to the right of the spacebar, one underneath your backslash key, one underneath your Tab key, and one in-between your G and H keys. Interestingly, Vortex no longer uses philips head screws and washers.

You'll still find the switches mounted to a steel plate, and then soldered onto a dual layer PCB. The dual-layer PCB is now red instead of black, with their logo printed on it. Nice touch!

The solder points for the LEDs no longer have solder pre-filled, so I believe it would be less of a hassle if you install LEDs yourself. Make sure you use dual-color LEDs, just because you can. You'll find that the resistors are all pre-installed.

The Layout

The Pok3r uses a 61-key ANSI layout, and completely standard key sizes. This is great for when you want to use your own keycaps to customize your keyboard.

Significant function layer changes have been made on the Pok3r. The first major change is that arrow keys were moved from WASD to IJKL, allowing you to use your right hand on the arrow keys (which I am a fan of). This forced some rearrangement in that area of the keyboard. The calculator, print screen, scroll lock, and pause keys have all stayed where they were, but Home, End, Page Up, Page Down, and insert keys have been moved to surround the arrow keys. It's a little tricky getting used to this layout, mostly because I'm already used to the placement of these keys on the Poker II. Both the top and bottom row function layers have the same configuration as the Poker II.

They've removed volume control, which I use all the time, so I am disappointed in this change. Volume control is not something I can use the programming feature to create, and there is nothing built into the operating system that allows me to control it via a keystroke. Therefore, I am forced to use a AutoHotKey script.

A strange addition is a second delete key beneath the quotation mark key. Delete is already on the function layer of the backspace key.

The "App" key, which accesses your context menu, has moved from "X" to "Z." For programming, your time delay keys have moved from FGH to TGB. These are both very minor changes.

Programming

The biggest change related to programming is the 3 additional programming layers. You no longer have a toggle button (used to be fn + right shift) to switch between the default layer and the programmed layer. You can simply switch layers by pressing Fn + Default, Fn + Layer 2, Fn + Layer 3, or Fn + Layer 4. You cannot program the default layer, only layers 2-4. When you're using any of those layers, a dual-colored LED (Red and Blue) will turn on to the left side of your spacebar. Default is off, Layer 2 is Blue, Layer 3 is Red, and Layer 4 is Purple.

Another major change to programming, we are no longer restricted to 14 keystrokes per key. Vortex has now enabled up to 32 keystrokes per key - more than double that of the Poker II! Again, all of your settings are saved in the on-board memory, so you do not need additional drivers installed on your computer.

If you want to wipe all programming completely, hold down both Alt keys for 5 seconds until the LED stops blinking.

Here are some ideas of what you can do with the programming:

Save a frequently accessed password onto your keyboard, instead of in your browser or on your computer somewhere. No one would know, right?

All of these would be too lengthy for the Poker II! Think of the possibilities!

A few people have asked me already if you can switch the arrow keys back to WASD, and you can, because the Pok3r supports Fn layer programming. Here's an example:
1. Press Fn + Layer 2, 3, or 4.
2. Press Fn + Right Ctrl to enter programming mode.
3. Press Fn + W, or W if you do not want the arrow keys on the function layer.
4. Press Fn + I (Where the arrow key is currently located on the keyboard)
5. Press Pn
6. Continue to program the rest of the keys, or press Fn + Right Ctrl to exit programming mode.

DIP Switches

There are 4 DIP switches built into the Pok3r, accessible from the bottom of the keyboard. The first two allow you to switch between Qwerty, Dvorak, or Colemak. Keeping them both switched off will default to Qwerty. Flipping switch 1 on and switch 2 off will enable Dvorak, and flipping both switches on will enable Colemak. I've been giving Colemak a try, myself. Made it to 26 words a minute on my third day (Eeks!).

Switch 3 will make your CapsLock key a FN key, and switch 4 will allow you to change the FN or PN keys to any position (other than right control). To do that, you first turn DIP 4 on while the keyboard is unplugged. After plugging it in again, the first key you hit should be the FN key or PN key, depending on which one you'd like to move. Lastly, press the key which you'd like to move either of those keys to, and then switch DIP 4 OFF.

The Keycaps

Vortex uses a high quality thick PBT plastic for the keycaps, in grey, and the lettering is laser-engraved with an off-white infill. It looks like backlighting will become an available option on this keyboard, and the keycaps for that model will most likely be UV coated ABS or Vortex's new PBT and doubleshot POM keycaps (I'm just guessing here).

Vortex still uses their signature font of choice, Bank Gothic, but they've made some changes to the alignment of the text. It is no longer centered, but aligned to the top left of each keycap. Larger modifier keys are aligned to the left or right sides horizontally, and to the bottom vertically.

One strange alignment which was pointed out to me was the Esc key. Unlike all of the other keys, it is vertically centered on the keycap. Honestly, I'm not sure if this bothers me or not. Let Vortex know whether they should keep it this way, or change it! Here's a photoshop mock-up of what it would look like with the proper alignment.

Oh, and the spacebar no longer has "Enjoy Your Feeling" printed on it. Thank you Vortex for listening to everyone's feedback!

Other Notable Things

For the keys that require them, Cherry stabilizers are used. You either like them or hate them. The nice thing is, they make removing the keycaps a lot easier than the Filco-style wire stabilizers.

Make sure to be especially careful when removing keycaps if you have a Cherry MX Clear model - the keycaps are put on tight.

The CapsLock light can't be seen from your sitting position at the desk, as the LED is a very dark blue color. The CapsLock keycap does not allow light to shine through it. They've also moved the CapsLock LED to the switch led socket, instead of to the right of the switch.

The programming LEDs underneath the spacebar are also very dim, but I like them this way because they are not too blinding or distracting. You cannot disable this LED unless you switch back to using the default unprogrammed layer.

As noted in the manual, backlit models will have 2 recordable layers of customized backlighting!

FN + Q = Choose LED color

FN + W = Record 1

FN + E = Record 2

FN + D = CM1

FN + F = CM2

I had an idea for the arrangement of the default function layer, which I have created here. I think they should have removed three function layer keys: the second delete key (under the " key), the Pause key, and the Scroll Lock key. This would allow them to bring back the VolUp, VolDn, and Mute keys. I would also rearrange the Home, End, PgUp, and PgDown keys to my liking. My proposed default layout change would keep the same number of function keys - if there is a limitation in the hardware to add more. The VolUp, VolDn, and Mute keys would have an icon on each keycap, not text.

Conclusion

Vortex has done it again with some great improvements to this new keyboard. The aluminum case really surprised me, especially at nearly the same price of the Poker II! Also, the additional characters and layers provided for programming allow me to do a lot more with it than I could previously. I would say this keyboard holds the best value on the market, especially for those who do not wish to purchase separate aftermarket items such as a metal case or PBT keycaps.

Thanks for reading my review, and thanks to Vortex for sending me a keyboard to review!

Video Review

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Hello folks; welcome to another review! Today, we're going to be looking at Mimic Cables custom USB and audio cables, along with a modification to my Beyerdynamic 990 Premiums!

Mimic Cables has many different sleeving options, but the one I chose is the silver silica. It's a very soft and flexible sleeving, with a subtle sheen to it. It costs a little extra, but I think it looks fantastic!

When I received it, there were already a couple of blemishes, and I think that's due to how soft it is. If you're in an environment where you're on the go, I might recommend a more durable sleeving option. There are paracord, MDPC, Kevlar, Stainless Steel, Brass, Copper, and even Carbon Fiber options available.

To give you an idea, here's what grey 550 paracord looks like next to silver silica.

The cables use gold-plated connectors, with some nice clean black heatshrink to boot.

A minor annoyance to this USB cable is the fact that when plugging it into my keyboard, the Mini B connector cannot be pushed fully into my keyboard's USB port. You have to make sure to plug the cable in about half way in order for the keyboard to recognize it. Then it will work perfectly. This is not an issue on the USB A side, where you plug it into your computer.

The Audio Cable

For the audio cable, I chose the same sleeving so my two new cables would match.

Each end is a 3.5mm gold-plated connector using Switchcraft parts. Coincidentally, Switchcraft manufactures their parts right here in Chicago. As of late, Mimic Cables has been using Rean parts, which also look great but have a glossy finish. I like the matte black look the best.

Twist off the cover to the connectors and you'll find very clean soldering work.

Mimic Cables also offers a service to modify headphones. The permanent cable on your headphones is removed and replaced with an audio jack, so that you can use any length 3.5mm cable.

This mod solves the issue of the ever-too-long undetachable cables that are included with many headphones, including my Beyerdynamics.

One of the things I was worried about is whether the modification would affect the audio quality of my 990s, but I am pleased to report there hasn't been a noticeable difference and my headphones still sound great!

I also wondered if the audio jack might disconnect while listening to my headphones, but Mimic has solved that issue by thoughtfully including a twist lock connector on the end of the cable that connects to the headphones.

Conclusion

I love the quality of the cables and the vast customization options that Mimic Cables has to offer. There's a plethora of sleeving options — even braided and coiled cables are available — and any connector you could possibly need for hooking up your mechanical keyboards and audio equipment.

Many thanks to Mimic Cables for sending these to me for review!

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Hello everyone; welcome to another Rhinofeed keyboard review!

Today we're looking at the Ducky Zero (DK2108) with Cherry MX Reds. Included in the box is the following: a Ducky info card, replacement pad-printed pink WASD keys, a basic plastic key puller, and the keyboard itself.

Today we're looking at the Ducky Zero (DK2108) with Cherry MX Reds. Included in the box is the following: a Ducky info card, replacement pad-printed pink WASD keys, a basic plastic key puller, and the keyboard itself.

As you should all know by now, Cherry MX Reds are my favorite switch. In fact, this is the first keyboard I owned that had them — I just never got around to reviewing it! Cherry MX Reds are a linear switch with no tactile bump or click. The actuation force required is the same as for Cherry MX Browns, which is fairly light, but to me they feel even lighter because you don't have that bump.

The switches are mounted on a plate, and underneath that you have a dual-layer PCB. This may be Ducky's "basic" keyboard, but they've put the money where it counts. Typing on this keyboard is so smooth, and so solid. The space bar has a really nice thud.

They've saved some money by using ABS keycaps, and the laser-printed lettering fades quickly in use. Luckily they are easy enough to replace, but for me, the shiny worn key feel is growing on me.

The case is a slightly textured black box with squared edges. Perfect. It hides fingerprints and dust well, and it doesn't flex at all when you try to twist it.

As far as the layout and extra shortcut keys go, you'll find four extra keys at the top right of the keyboard above the number pad: volume mute, volume down, volume up, and a dedicated calculator key. This is exactly what I want in a keyboard, and one of the biggest reasons I love this keyboard so much. You don't even have to press a Function key to use them!

You'll also notice they've replaced the bottom right Windows key with a function key, which can be used to either lock the Windows key (F10), or enable/disable unlimited key rollover over USB (NKRO).

Both of these keys have cool green LEDs to let you know when they're enabled, and you'll also find the same LEDs on your NumLock key and your CapsLock key.

One thing they did to save money was to not include a removable cable, and the cable that is included is not gold-plated. It really doesn't bother me too much, but that is something I thought I should note. There are also no extra features controlled by DIP-switches on the bottom, like you find on the Ducky Shine series.

Speaking of the bottom, you'll find four small rubber feet near each corner, and two flip-out feet to increase the angle for typing. The flip-out feet do not include rubber on the ends of them, so there is a higher chance of the Zero slipping around on your desktop. The keyboard is heavy enough that this doesn't happen to me, however.

Conclusion

To sum it all up: If you are in the market for a full-size mechanical keyboard that isn't flashy in any way, but that will give you a great, solid typing experience at a good price/performance ratio, this is the one. Pick what switch you want and go get it. Alternatively, if you like the basic design but want a little flashiness, Ducky has the DK2108S, which is the same keyboard plus backlighting.

Thanks for reading! I'll end my review by giving you the sound test video of this very keyboard for your listening pleasure. Doesn't it sound fantastic?