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ICE-PACK AND TUNDEA.
LONDON:
PBINTED BY GILBERT AND BIVINGTON, LIMITED,
ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
Ice-Pack and Tundra
AN ACCOUNT OF
THE SEAECH FOR THE JEANNETTE
AND A SLEDGE JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA
BY
WILLIAM H. GILDER
CORRESPONDENT OP "THE KEW YORK HERALD" WITH THE RODGERS SEARCH
expedition: author or "schwatka's search '
WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS
£onfcon
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET
1883
[All rights reserved.']
7 W>
l?*79
&56
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
At Sea 1
CHAPTER II.
Off Kamtchatka 13
CHAPTER III.
Petropaulovski 23
CHAPTER IV.
St. Michael's 45
CHAPTER V.
Ik St. Lawrence Bay 60
CHAPTER VI.
Wrangel Island 67
CHAPTER VII.
Round the Island 83
CHAPTER VIII.
In the Ice Fields 95
CHAPTER IX.
Eeteetlan 102
v
vi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
PAGE
LOSS OF THE RODGERS 115
CHAPTER XL
Prospects of Relief — 129
CHAPTER XII.
The Fate of Putnam 137
CHAPTER XIII.
Across Siberia 148
CHAPTER XIV.
On the Road 161
CHAPTER XV.
Middle Kolymsk 172
CHAPTER XVL
Approaching the Lena , 186
CHAPTER XVII.
The Diary of De Long 198
CHAPTER XVIII.
How the Bodies were Found 217
CHAPTER XIX.
The Voyage of the Jeannette 227
CHAPTER XX.
The Retreat 240
CONTENTS. vii
CHAPTER XXI.
PAGE
Bennett Island 259
CHAPTER XXII.
NlNDEEMANN AND NOKOS 275
CHAPTER XXIII.
Among the Yakouts 299
CHAPTER XXIV.
Caught by the Floods 319
CHAPTER XXV.
End of the Journey 331
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
The Jeannette Search Parties in Yakoutsk. .Frontispiece
From a photograph.
St. Michael's 43
From an Esquimaux drawing.
Hunting Scene 53
From an Esquimaux drawing.
The Trapper 57
From an Esquimaux drawing.
Parrot-bill Gulls 59
From an Esquimaux drawing.
Tchouktchi Youth 63
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Tchouktchi Girl 70
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Herald Island 74
From a sketch by the author.
Placing Records on Herald Island 77
From a sketch by the author.
Camp at Eeteetlan 102
From a sketch by the author.
The Burning of the Rodgers 121
From a sketch by Ensign Hunt.
" One-eyed Riely" 12G
From a sketch by the author.
Tchouktchi Children 155
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Siberian Landscape 173
From a photograph.
ix
X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Cossack Fort 177
From a sketch by a political exile.
Yakout Fishermen 178
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Interior of a Starosta's House 182
From a sketch by the author.
Interior of Povarnniar 188
From a sketch by the author.
Keindeer 190
From a sketch by the author.
Nicholai Chagra's House 192
From a sketch by the author.
NlCHOLAI Chagra ' 193
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Werchojansk 195
From a photograph.
The Place Where the Bodies were Found 199
From a pencil sketch.
Finding De Long 201
From a pencil sketch.
Monument Hill 217
From a pencil sketch.
Diagrams of Tomb 221
From drawings by Bartlett.
Position of the Bodies 224
From a sketch by Bartlett.
The Jeannette Survivors in Yakoutsk 225
From a photograph.
Diagram of Position of the Jeannette 228
From a sketch by Captain De Long.
Arrangement of Camp 234
From a sketch by Captain De Long.
Diagram of Shore Line 266
From a sketch by Captain De Long.
NlNDERMANN AND NOROS 276
From a photograph.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, xi
PAGE
Tcnguses 289
From a photograph.
Kusmah 295
From a pencil sketch by the author.
Yakoutsk 297
From a photograph.
Yakout Horse 302
From a sketch by the author.
Group of Boriaks 304
From a photograph.
Road Pass 305
Reduced facsimile.
Order for Horses 306
Reduced facsimile.
Bridge of Exiles 309
From a photograph.
Lagoon Camp on the Aldan 317
From a sketch by the author.
View on the Upper Lena 320
From a photograph.
Xishni Novgorod 329
From a photograph.
Tomsk 335
From a photograph.
Gold Mines of Witem 339
From a photograph.
General Anoutchine 341
From a photograph.
Lake Baikal 343
From a photograph.
Mayor of Tomsk 344
From a photograph.
LIST OF MAPS.
Cruise of the Rodgers in Search of the Jeannette
in the Summer of 1881 To face page 1
Wrangel Island Page 65
General Map of Northern Siberia and Europe, Show-
ing the Author's Route Across the Continent.
At end of the volume
xii
CRUISE OF THE RODGERS IN SEARCH OE THE JEANNETTE
IN THE SUMMER OF 1881.
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
CHAPTER I.
AT SEA.
On Board IT. S. S. Rodgers,
June 27th, 188L
After numerous delays from various unexpected
causes, the United States Jeannette Relief Expedition
at last finds itself upon the broad Pacific Ocean, about
1,000 miles from San Francisco, and were it not for a half
gale that is blowing most of the time, and kicking up a
very rough sea, its individual members would have time
for serious reflection. But for some reason or other the
Rodgers, though a staunch and seaworthy craft, has a
habit of pitching and rolling most mercilessly, and the
component parts of the relief expedition are anxiously
awaiting a change of weather to bathe their aching limbs
and bruised bodies. As I write, the sun is shining, but
the sea is running very high, and now and then an unu-
sually big wave sweeps the main deck, and would carry
away the deck - load of lumber were it not securely
lashed, or, perhaps, rising aloft, douses the officer on
the quarter-deck in an ocean of spray.
This sea, however, is moderate in comparison with
what we encountered almost immediately after leaving
n?
2 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
the headlands at the entrance of the Golden Gate. The
very first night out found us tempest-tossed on the heav-
ing breast of the so-called Pacific Ocean. More than one
of those accustomed to life upon the billowy deep were
seeking the retirement of their state-rooms, not to sleep,
but to hide their feelings from public gaze. No one need
expect sympathy in sea-sickness. It seems to be the
usual thing for the strong to laugh at the weaker stom-
achs. No tender hand is there to smooth the aching
brow, or to bathe the throbbing temples of the sick one,
and yet, perhaps, no sickness is more agonizing to the
sufferer. My room-mate, a handsome young Cuban, who
though aware of the fact that he is sick almost all the time
he is at sea, has pluckily chosen the profession of a sur-
geon in the navy, was most terribly handled by the re-
lentless sea. But there was no sympathy for him in the
ward-room. All the encouragement he would get would
be the cheery laugh and raillery of his comrades as they
called upon him to " brace up " and " have some style " ;
and when three days had passed, during which he was
unable even to think of food, they came to him with
rusty hard bread, and advised him to eat it with plenty
of mucilage to make it stick. Despite his agony he
smiled good-naturedly, and expressed his disgust at his
weakness. Said he, " Just look at me, a big strong man,
and yet so weak that I can't walk or eat. It is simply
disgusting. And yet I tell you I feel so utterly nerveless
that if I were to fall overboard, I don' t believe I would
try to swim."
But where is Dominick all this time ? Dominick
Boocker is the steward, who came way from Louisville,
Ky., to gain the glory of being the first colored man at
the north pole. He is a faithful fellow, but, oh ! so slow.
AT SEA. 3
Perfectly satisfied with his prospective distinction, he
acts as though that were all he had to do in this world.
At Mare Island and in San Francisco he was supremely
happy. A cabin full of "gemmen" to wait upon, an
Italian cook to prepare the meals that he ordered, and
all dependent upon him — what else was there in life to be
desired ? But launched upon the heaving breast of the
broad ocean in one of her angriest moods, and called
upon to cast up his accounts, a change came over him.
From the grinning good nature that had previously dis-
tinguished him, he became thoughtful and morose ; and
finally a look of such utterly helpless misery settled upon
his face, that it was absolutely touching. The first-class
Italian cook, imported from New York at the expense of
the officers' mess,- had also succumbed to the weather,
and the ship's cook, with the assistance of the black-
smith, had to do all the work for both ends of the vessel.
There was not much that could be done, though, for the
vessel rolled and pitched so that it was next to impossible
to cook any thing. Perhaps a little coffee, that generally
came to grief somewhere between the galley and the
ward-room, or a boiled potato and some hard bread, com-
prised the meal which had to be eaten while grasping
some convenient projection along the wall of the cabin,
or with one leg wound around the leg of the table and
the other braced against a handy bulkhead. In the
meantime nearly all the crockery was broken, and the
mess kit was in a very dilapidated condition when viewed
after the storm subsided. The night of Sunday, the 19th,
and the three following days, were most delightful. The
sea was perfectly smooth and the wind so light that
steam was ordered, and we moved by the propeller until
Thursday morning, when the wind freshened sufficiently
4 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
to dispense with, steam. Since then a strong wind has
prevailed which necessitated shortening sail.
We have been somewhat disappointed in the sailing
qualities of the vessel, or rather in the speed she has been
able to develop. But she is deeply laden, carrying about
one hundred tons more than was anticipated, and is
heavily sparred. This causes her to roll considerably,
and assists in deadening her headway. Dragging her
screw propeller through the water also has a tendency to
check her speed, and the sheathing to protect her from
the ice has a similar effect. Upon the whole, however,
her officers are thoroughly satisfied with her, and consider
her one of the finest vessels, if not indeed the best, that
ever entered the Arctic. She showed more speed under
steam than was expected, having reached five and a half
knots, without any assistance from the sails, on Wednes-
day the 22d. This was a knot better than had been
anticipated ; and the chief engineer has since said that he
hopes to improve upon that record before reaching Petro-
paulovski.
We have a splendid crew of men, selected chiefly from
volunteers from the regular navy. Young men accus-
tomed to discipline, well trained in their duties, and full
of animal spirits. It is a pleasure to see them at work
about the ship, singing the tarry songs of the briny deep
as they heave upon the ropes. Their songs are of various
kinds, but may be divided into the two general classes of
working and loafing choruses. There are those in quick
measure, when they haul rapidly hand over hand, in
time to the music, and others with a long, dismal, mo-
notonous solo, with a chorus at rare intervals of "Haul,
boys, haul away," when they put the strain on the ropes.
This is the loafing song.
AT SEA. 5
Some of the men are so full of life that it is impossible
to restrain them. They despise the ratlings, but go aloft,
hand over hand, by any convenient rope. The other
night, while taking in sail during a squall, one of the
men had occasion to go from the upper top-sail to the
lower yard, and, instead of going by the ratlings, let him-
self down by a rope, and after completing his task wou]d
not even return in the regular way, but went up, hand
over hand, by the same rope. The rolling of the vessel
swung him clear out over the angry waves, but he paid
no attention to the apparent peril of his position. [Not
so, however, the officer of the deck. It was too good an
opportunity to do some swearing, and he cursed the dar-
ing fellow's recklessness roundly. The men do not ap-
pear to do such things in a spirit of bravado, but sim-
ply with implicit reliance upon their powers. It is the
unanimous opinion that there never was a finer crew as-
sembled upon any vessel. Strong, young, skilful, good-
natured and under thorough discipline, they possess all
the qualities to make for themselves a noble record when
their skill and daring are called upon in the approaching
conflict with the ice floes and storms of the polar sea.
Several of them have seen service in the north before this
trip. Payer considers enlisted men with Arctic experience
rather a detriment than an advantage to the force of an
Arctic cruiser, as they are apt to consider such experience
as an offset to the skill, judgment and intelligence of their
officers. With us, however, are several officers who have
had more or less experience in that country, so that the
men cannot and do not claim any superiority on that
score. It is a pleasure to see the alacrity with which the
orders of the officers are obeyed, and it is also gratifying
to see the judgment and skill displayed by these youthful
6 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
officers, as has already been evinced more than once dur-
ing the exceedingly severe weather already experienced.
It had been remarked in San Francisco before we left
that if there was any weakness in the equipment of the
Rodger s, it was the extreme youthfulness of her officers.
But it has already been demonstrated that the careful
training of intelligent minds in a course such as is pursued
at the United States Naval Academy develops competent
officers more rapidly than the mere school of experience
can possibly accomplish. With such a vessel as the
Rodgers, officered and manned as she is, it is not surpris-
ing that friends at home expect great results from this
voyage. This feeling was liberally displayed in the escort
tendered us on the day of our departure from San Fran-
cisco, the 16th of June. Many ladies and gentlemen went
down the bay on our vessel, and a large steamboat and
several tugs accompanied us as far as it was safe or con-
venient for the ladies, who attended in great numbers.
As we passed the forts in the harbor, the army tug came
out to meet us, and steamed for some time alongside, the
fine military band of the Fourth Artillery playing several
appropriate and inspiriting selections. On one tug that
kept close beside the Rodger s in her progress down the
bay, were Paymaster A. S. Kenney, purchasing officer of
the expedition, and Pay-Director Caspar Schenck, of San
Francisco, with numerous invited guests, who drank to
our safe and successful return, waving their glasses and
the festive demijohn toward us in the most tantalizing
manner, considering that they were enjoying a privilege
denied to us, though such deprivation is a self-imposed
obligation, to be broken only on high days and holidays,
or the finding of any of the Jeannetttf s party. Several
of the yachts of the San Francisco squadron joined the
AT SEA. 7
escort, and, in the stiff breeze that conies in through the
Golden Gate every afternoon, sailed merrily around us,
the ladies waving their handkerchiefs and the gentlemen
their hats, and shouting words of encouragement when-
ever they came near us. It was a scene of intense excite-
ment, and it is perhaps unnecessary to say that not a
man or officer on board our vessel but felt his bosom
swell with pride and satisfaction at the genuine hearti-
ness of the God speed tendered us. There was manifest
in every individual on board the Rodger s the conscious-
ness that he had started upon a perilous expedition with
a humane object in view — a rescue ; and his determination
to do something worthy of the cause was strengthened by
the very evident appreciation of friends and strangers.
Finally the hour arrived when the guests on board the
Bodgers must leave, for there was already quite a heavy
sea, and delay would make the disembarking more and
more difficult of accomplishment. The little revenue
cutter, General Irwin, drew alongside, and though both
vessels kept bobbing up and down on the waves, the
large party of ladies and gentlemen was safely trans-
ferred, and crowded the upper deck of the cutter, much
to the dismay of their friends upon the Bodgers. Again
and again cheers and the last parting words were ex-
changed, and hearts were close to the mouths of many
on board both vessels. The last good-bye came from the
signal station on Telegraph Hill, where in the dim dis-
tance we could see the Stars and Stripes dipping from the
flag-staff. This signal was answered, and we steamed
slowly and silently past the headlands of the Golden
Gate, and were out upon the boundless deep. The pilot
left us at half past seven that evening, and carried back
a few hastily written words of parting to distant friends ;
8 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
and as the white-haired old mariner stepped over the rail
into his tiny boat, that was to take him to his pretty-
craft close by, his eyes were dimmed by emotion we
scarcely expected in one whose interest in us we had
believed to be only mercenary.
Soon an ugly swell made the Rodger s roll heavily, and
the wind springing up, we began to miss one and another
of the ship' s company who had retired to the privacy of
their state-rooms or the friendly support of the hand
rail. Mark Twain has said that nothing makes a man
so conceited as to have his stomach behave itself when
others are experiencing the pangs of sea-sickness. I re-
membered this, and tried to appear modest ; in fact I was
not certain how long I might enjoy immunity from this
dread ill, as the sea was getting rougher continually.
But though during this and the succeeding two days I
experienced the worst weather I ever encountered, I had
no cause to complain of that useful member of my physi-
cal economy. I tried to pity my poor room-mate, and
offered my services to do anything for him, but he was
beyond the reach of human aid for relief, and just then I
caught sight of Dominick, and if there ever was a picture
of repentance he was the model.
" What river is this % " said he, after we had been out
of sight of land about three days.
" This is the ocean, Dominick."
"Well, wharsdeland?"
"It will be many days before you see land again, old
fellow."
There was no reply to this. Poor old Dominick retired
to the forecastle, and was not seen for several days, when,
during a storm which kept the vessel wet from stem to
stern by the seas she constantly shipped and leaked
AT SEA. 9
through the seams above the water-line, one of the offi-
cers asked a sailor if he knew what had become of
Dominick.
" I guess he's drowned, sir," was the reply. "I saw a
box washed out from under a bunk in the forecastle this
morning and Dominick came floating out behind it, and
he looked as if he were dead then, or wished he was."
But a few days of pleasant weather brought all the sick
ones to their feet, and Dominick was again on duty. He
never was a racehorse, and the rough handling he had
encountered while at sea had not increased his activity.
There was an uncertainty in his every motion that was
particularly annoying. It was not surprising perhaps
that he should be confused with half a dozen officers call-
ing him in different directions at the same time, and upon
entirely different errands ; but such is the daily experi-
ence of a ward-room steward, and it requires a habitude
that he had not acquired to get along under such circum-
stances. Among the officers is a jovial youth from South
Carolina, who takes especial delight in confusing poor
Dominick. He keeps calling him constantly, and insists
that he shall "come a running," something he probably
never did in his life. A few days ago he rebuked him in
sailor terms for his lack of energy, and Dominick apolo-
gized by saying he did not feel well, and, when he was
sick that way, he was " dull and stupid." " Well," said
Stoney, "if that's the case, I guess you've been at the
point of death ever since I knew you." I have an im-
pression that Dominick would give at least a month' s pay
if he had never seen this " river."
Our young South Carolinian has taken a most decided
fancy to the colored steward, and his affection is recipro-
cated. The one is reminded of home by having a genu-
10 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
ine Southern darkey to bull-doze with good-natured rail-
lery, and the other is similarly reminded of home in being
bull-dozed.
" Dominick, you've got to come and live with me after
this cruise," said the ensign, the other morning. " You'll
never have to do another stroke of work as long as you
live. All you'll have to do will be to hold my children
on your knee, and lie to them about this trip."
" Have you got any children, sir ? You look like you
was too young a man," said Dominick.
"No, not yet," was the reply; "but if some one re-
mains of the same opinion when I return as when I left,
I hope to have one of these days."
There are no married men among the officers. All are
young, hopeful, and ambitious. Most, and perhaps all,
have some one at home for whose sake they hope to win
a name, and the thought that fervent prayers are daily
offered for the absent, and that loving eyes are eagerly
looking for news of them, nerves every arm, and will
inspire men with greater courage in the hour of danger.
The lonely night watch gives plenty of time for such
reflections, unless foul weather occupies the entire atten-
tion of the officer of the deck.
The routine on board the Rodger s is conducted with
all the regularity of a man-of-war, and cheerfulness pre-
dominates under the most trying circumstances. The
evenings in the cabin are passed pleasantly in games of
cards, chess, back gammon, and the like, and in reading
works of scientific interest or lighter literature. Dumb
bells and Indian clubs engage attention on the quarter-
deck during pleasant weather, and the men forward take
turns in pummelling each other with a set of boxing-
gloves.
AT SEA. 11
A pair of black pigs enjoy the freedom of the deck be-
low the top-gallant forecastle, and are named respectively
Michael Angelo and Raphael. Three kittens and a puppy,
of parentage so involved as to puzzle a committee from
any kennel club in the country, are the pets of the sailors,
and sustain names that would make them proud if they
only understood their significance. The kittens are
Phryne, Aphrodite and Proserpine ; while the dog re-
sponds to the name of Billee Stuart. It is becoming a
sad reflection that either Michael Angelo or Raphael will
have to die to provide us with a fitting thanksgiving din-
ner. The ship is so well provisioned that one might
imagine there would be no necessity for such a sacrifice,
but nothing can withstand the keen edge of a salt air
appetite. Where are now those dainty palates that re-
fused the delicacies of the San Francisco restaurants, the
Occidental Hotel, the California House, Marchand's, and
the " Poodle Dog"? Where are those appetites that
had to be stimulated with a cock-tail before breakfast
and absinthe before dinner ? I wouldn' t even trust Billee
Stuart to run at large were other food lacking. Unless
we should have the misfortune to lose our vessel it will
be a long time before we are reduced to any strait for
food. Beside the regular navy rations for two years and
a half, we have on board about two years' full rations of
specially selected food, purchased with the Congressional
appropriation. In other words, there is food for four or
five years at least upon the Bodgers. This is perhaps
much more than we will require for our own use, but not
too much should we have to reprovision the Jeannette
and the missing whalers. We may not meet any of them,
but that is the object of our expedition, and it is proper
to be prepared for such an event. All of the food on
12 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
board is of superior quality, except perhaps the canned
meats, which had to be purchased very hurriedly to re-
place the provisions of that class prepared at the Bre-
voort House in New York, and supposed to be of the very
best put up, but which spoiled in transit from that city
to San Francisco on the overland freight trains. It was a
great disappointment to lose these goods, for their excel-
lence seemed to be admitted wherever known. The Naval
Board in Washington, to whom specimens had been sent,
approved of the purchase after testing them in their fam-
ilies. The fame of the chef of the Brevoort House is
world-wide, and to dine in the arctic upon such soups and
meats would simply be taking all the romance of arctic
life out of the trip. There you expect walrus meat and
blubber, and to get turtle soup and tete de veau en tortue
instead, is altogether wrong, for it admits of no excuse for
dirty hands and blue shirts. It is fortunate, though, that
the condition of these meats was developed before they
reached the hold of the vessel, so that they could be re-
placed with others, though not of so good quality as these
were supposed to be. It has been already discovered that
some of the canned meats bought in California are some-
what tainted, but the probability is that most of them
will be found in good condition when required for use.
We had the pleasure of exchanging signals with an
English bark, apparently bound for San Francisco, last
Thursday morning. The weather was thick and a high
sea running, so that there was no effort made to visit, or
"gam," as it is familiarly called.
Sunday, the 26th instant, the wind was very fresh and
squally. The waves were running high, but we carried
sail until the lee rail was under water, and though butting
into a heavy swell we made nine knots an hour. Quite
satisfactory speed under the circumstances.
CHAPTER II.
OFF KAMTCHATKA.
Petropaulovski, Kamtchatka,
July 23d, 1881.
The Rodgers reached this port on the afternoon of the
19th instant in one of the heavy fogs that distinguish this
portion of the world. The evening before onr arrival we
were only about sixty miles from the shore, and, as
the weather was very thick, Lieutenant Berry deemed it
advisable to heave-to until daylight, as this is a disagree-
able coast to approach in unpropitious weather. Shortly
after three o'clock in the morning we started again slowly
toward the land, the commanding officer constantly on
deck to personally guide and direct the movements of his
vessel, as is his custom when danger threatens. About
half-past eight, though the land was about forty miles
distant, and still concealed by the fog, we could dis-
tinctly smell the grass and moss of the Kamtchadal
mountains. We at last " picked up" the land, as the
sailors term it, about half -past ten o'clock, and after
taking the bearings of several headlands, established our
position as about twenty miles south of the entrance of
Avatcha Bay. We therefore steamed up the coast against
a head wind, catching occasional glimpses of the land,
and toward evening could make out the little light-house
on one of the bluffs, and had no further difficulty in mak-
ing our way into the snug little harbor of Petropaulov-
13
14 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ski, the closer landmarks being easily recognized as we
passed. When nearer the town we could see by the
aid of onr glasses that there were two large steamers in
ahead of us, and a small boat brought Mr. Green, first
officer of the Alaska Commercial Company's steamer
Alexander to us, under whose guidance we secured a fine
anchorage outside the sand spit, and about half a mile
from the town. He told us that we were expected, and
that the other steamer was the Russian steam corvette,
the StrelocTc, Commander De Livron, which had come to
anchor that morning. The Alexander had arrived the
previous day from Behring Island, and was discharging
her cargo preparatory to continuing her trading voyage,
or rather her sealing operations on the Commander
Islands.
Soon a cutter from the Russian man-of-war brought
one of her officers, with the compliments of his command-
ing officer, saying that he would take an early oppor-
tunity to call, and that he would gladly furnish us any
assistance in his power to further the object of our expe-
dition. About the same time another boat arrived with
Captain Sandman, of the Alexander, together with Cap-
tian Hunter and Mr. Mulawansky, residents of the village,
who also tendered their services to the extent of their
ability. Captains Sandman and Hunter, though person-
ally strangers, were familiar to most of us through the
books of Kennan and Bush, of the Russo- American Tele-
graph Company, who had met them here while engaged
in their Arctic work in the interest of that enterprise.
Captain Sandman was the commander of the brig Olga
that brought the American party from San Francisco,
and Captain Hunter, then as now, a resident of this place,
had materially aided them with wise counsel derived
OFF KAMTCHATKA. 15
from his experience in the country. After a short but
pleasant visit our guests departed, promising to devote
themselves to the task of securing for us such articles of
Arctic outfit as could be procured here, and which had
been the object of our visit to this town of one yearly mail.
The following morning, with our newly- found friend,
Captain Hunter, as interpreter, Lieutenant Berry and
your correspondent paid a visit to Commander De Liv-
ron, of the Strelock, and learned from him that he had
been directed by his government to aid us to the extent
of his ability, and to make a summer cruise in Behring
Sea and the Arctic in aid of the search for the Jeannette.
He further said that he would like to know our route
from here, and the points where we would stop in pros-
ecuting our search, so that he could go to other localities,
thereby making the search as extended as possible. He
also told Lieutenant Berry that there was a deposit of
500 tons of coal in Plover Bay, placed there by the Rus-
sian government, and that he was at liberty to use as
much of it as he desired. He begged Lieutenant Berry
to command his services at any time, and subsequently
furnished him with his intended route after leaving this
port to Cape Serdze Kamen, from which place he would
bring whatever mail matter we had, and transmit a
despatch from the nearest point of telegraphic communi-
cation in Asia, where he expected to arrive in the latter
part of September. The following day the officers of the
Rodger s were entertained at breakfast by the officers of
the Streloclc, and during our entire stay here they have
extended the most cordial hospitality toward us. The
StrelocJc is a steamer of about 1,400 tons, manned by
twenty officers and one hundred and fifty men. She has
a battery of heavy breech-loading guns, and can make
16 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
twelve knots under full steam. Captain De Livron is
expecting the arrival here, within a week, of the Russian
Admiral of the Pacific fleet, with three other vessels of
war of the Imperial Russian Navy. This will be a mat-
ter of unusual importance in the history of this very
quiet, and, to all appearances, unimportant post. This
morning the Kamtcliatlca, a steamer of 1,400 tons, bur-
then, belonging to Mr. A. E. Philippeus, a Russian mer-
chant, arrived here, and is about to proceed on a trading
tour to the mouth of the Kamtchatka River and the
various ports in the Ochotsk Sea. Captain Hunter, who
is the local agent and representative of the owners, will
accompany the vessel upon this trip.
Through the active interest of Messrs. Hunter and
Mulawansky and the co-operation of the Ispravnik, or
chief magistrate, Mr. Sarabrenekoff, we have succeeded
in securing forty-seven fine dogs from the people of this
neighborhood, but were unable to procure as much dried
salmon for dog food as we require. It is too early in the
season to find dried fish, though fresh salmon are taken
daily in immense quantities. We have obtained a large
amount of reindeer skin clothing, which will be invalua-
ble during our sledging operations in the Arctic. The
clothing obtained is far superior in quality of workman-
ship and dressing to that of the Esquimaux, and is
much more ornamental. There seems also to be a differ-
ence in the quality of the fur to that of the American
reindeer, the clothing made from which has to be re-
newed each year, while this, though having been used a
long time, is apparently as good as the day it was made.
I have noticed a striking difference in the management of
the dogs. These are much more kindly treated than are
those of the Esquimaux, and are carefully trained as
OFF KAMTCHATKA. 17
draught animals. They are driven by the voice instead
of a whip, and, instead of being harnessed each with a
separate trace, are all attached in pairs to a long line with
one leader, who minds the word of command, and turns
to the right or left as the driver desires. The Siberian
dogs are trained to make rapid journeys, and will readily
accomplish eighty or a hundred miles a day for four or
five days in succession if regularly fed and watered. I
am inclined to believe, however, that they will not equal
the Esquimaux dogs in pulling heavy loads over rough
ice or land. A load that they can draw easily they will
take with great rapidity, but as soon as it drags heavily
they all stop. This is, in a great measure, the result of
their training, as the driver, when he gives the command
to halt, plunges a strong staff into the snow, so as to im-
pede the progress of the sled as much as possible as a
further indication of his desire to stop, so that when the
dogs feel this heavy drag they stop and lie down. We
will probably, however, have an opportunity this fall and
winter for practice in the sort of work to be done in the
spring. The female dogs are never used in harness in
this country, and the males selected for the teams are all
emasculated before their training commences. They are
evidently of the same species as the Esquimaux dog, and
bear a strong resemblance to them in size, color, and
shape. The mode of driving is much the same noisy
process on both continents, though the words of com-
mand are different. When the Kamtchadal wishes his
dog to turn to the right he says "Kah-kah" or " Sun-
dah," to the left " Houch " or "Ho-gee, Ho-gee," and it
sounds much like the grunting of a pig. When he desires
them to start he either whistles or says "Heigh-Heigh,"
and to stop " Nah-n-a-h."
18 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
The sledges of the Kamtchadal are very different in con-
struction from the Esquimaux sledges, which are heavier
and better adapted for carrying weight than for rapid
transit. Nothing could better combine lightness with
strength than the sleds of the people of Petropaulovski ;
and they have one style upon which the occupant (for it
can carry but one person) sits astraddle, which very well
corresponds with the sulky of civilized race-courses. It
has broad but thin wooden runners, turned up in front,
with a frame-work upon which perches a basket-like shell,
and its various parts are held together with thongs of
seal or bear-skin. A team of six dogs will take one per-
son in a sled like this eight or ten miles an hour over a
good road, and their estimate of the power of their dogs
is 600 pounds for a team of nine good animals. An
Esquimaux team of equal numbers will carry a load of
1,800 or 2,000 pounds fifteen or twenty miles a day for
weeks and even for months.
We found no reindeer meat at Petropaulovski, but have
taken on board six cattle, which, with a deck-load of lum-
ber and cord- wood and our forty-seven dogs, makes it
quite lively for one who has to go from one end of the
vessel to the other. This is the second night since the
embarkation of our dogs, and the whole interval has been
filled with one prolonged howl that makes the nights
especially something to be remembered to the end of one's
existence. We expect to leave for St. Michael's in Alaska
to-morrow morning, there to take on board two hundred
tons of coal, which has already been shipped for our use
by the Alaska Commercial Company's steamer St. Paul;
but where it is to be put is a question that would puzzle
the most experienced stevedore that ever stowed a cargo.
About one hundred tons can be used to replenish the
OFF KAMTCHATKA. 19
coal-bunkers in the hold, and the remainder must go on
deck — but where ? The cows are forward of the foremast,
and the lumber and the dogs fill the intervening space
from the foremast to the quarter-deck, while the rigging
is all hung with salmon, which is drying for dog-food.
Fortunately we need not anticipate much heavy weather
inside of Behring Sea or the Arctic Ocean ; and it will be
only a short time comparatively before we will be com-
pelled to seek winter quarters either upon Wrangel Land
or the adjacent Siberian coast. Some such weather as we
had upon our trip from San Francisco would make sad
havoc with our deck-load.
The Fourth of July was a stormy day, and the vessel
rolled and pitched considerably ; the spirit of the occa-
sion was manifested in the band of young and patriotic
officers. "We could not kill a fatted calf, for we had none
to kill, but the fatted pig, Michael Angelo, furnished the
ship's company with a pleasant repast of fresh meat that
would have made him feel that he had not died in vain,
had he known how he was appreciated after death. One
of the officers opened a box that had been sent to him for
the occasion by some lady friends, in which each officer
was remembered by the bestowal of some toy or gift ; and
the merriment that followed the discovery of a baby rat-
tle, a top or whip, was unbounded. The box itself was
an especial source of amusement, in view of a label which
suggested the nursery quite as thoroughly as did the
toys which it contained. Dominick, the colored steward,
though scarcely able to keep his feet under him, arose to
the occasion, and produced a meal which would have done
credit to a first-class restaurant on a firm foundation.
After the cloth had been removed, Dr. Jones, the senior
surgeon, read an appropriate address expressing his
20 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
views of those who go down to the sea in ships, Arctic
research, and the dnty of patriotism. The Italian cook
was induced to make some chocolate, which, being nei-
ther tea nor coffee, was appreciated as a pleasant change
of diet. I overheard the conversation that led to the
chocolate, and recorded it as a curiosity of international
communication. Said the caterer of the mess: "You
know chocolate V 9
" Oh, yes ; me know him well."
" How long it take to make it ? "
" About so long, I guess " — (measuring off about eigh-
teen inches of air between his two hands).
"No, I mean how long time?"
" Oh, yes," with a smile beaming with intelligence and
evident delight at having caught the meaning exactly.
" How long time ? About two weeks, I guess."
"Confound it!" said the now exasperated caterer,
"Haven't you any brains? I want to know if we can
have chocolate for breakfast."
" Oh, yes, me make him quick now."
So we had our chocolate, and enjoyed it all the more
when it was told how much patience and tact our caterer
had exhibited in securing it.
The night of July 4th we had a succession of squalls,
and one which passed a little to leeward of the ship that
the officer of the deck said would have wrecked us if it
had hit us fairly. He said he saw it coming, and that it
flattened the waves down in its course so that it seemed
to cut a furrow right through the sea, and that a cold
gray light attended it that made everything look pale and
sepulchral like the green light in the death scenes of
some emotional plays. He had never felt so insignificant
as when he saw that pass, and knew how utterly power-
OFF KAMTCEATKA. 21
less lie was to do anything in case the vessel had stood in
its path. It did not, and therefore we live to tell the tale.
On the 9th of July we sighted Oonalaska's high moun-
tains, and the next day passed within fifty miles of Um-
nak, and saw the peak of its snow-crested volcano, 5,000 feet
high, burst through a cloud and tinged with the glory of
the setting sun. It was a gorgeous spectacle, and one that
will live long in the memory of all who saw it. It was a
most perfect representation of Fusiyama, the sacred moun-
tain of Japan, so familiar by its reproduction in all Jap-
anese works of art. Near it we saw the smoke arising
from one of the burning volcanoes of the Four Mountains.
The following day, the 11th instant, we passed into Beh-
ring Sea through the so-called " 172d pass," upon the 172d
meridian, between Amoughta and Seguam islands, and
found a smooth sea almost immediately. It was a pleas-
ure to sail upon such water after so rough a passage, and
we scarcely minded the fog that hung about us all the
time. Indeed, we had but five days' fair weather since we
left San Francisco.
Thursday, the 14th of July, we crossed the 180th meri-
dian, and were in east longitude. Here is where the mari-
ner takes up one day when sailing toward the west, or
drops one if going east. As we return in a few days and
re-cross the same meridian, we would have to make two
changes in our calendar, but Lieutenant Berry concluded
that we might as well retain our old reckoning. The only
difference it made is that we found the religious people of
Petropaulovski holding service on Saturday instead of
Sunday, and we are constantly in doubt as to whether
to-day is really to-day or to-morrow. And yet this con-
stantly dropping and taking up a day every time we
cross the 180th meridian, would make it exciting for us
22 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
in case of wintering on Wrangel Land, as that meridian
passes directly through the island ; so that we would be
constantly crossing and re-crossing it, involving ourselves
and our journals in the most inextricable confusion. We
could not go hunting and reach the hunting-grounds until
the next day, no matter how short the time occupied in
the journey, and, in returning, would always arrive the
day before we started. No well-balanced mind could
exist under such circumstances.
I am not at all sorry to have finished this letter, for while
writing here in the ward -room of the Rodger s I have been
a perfect martyr to those interminable pests of the Arctic
— the mosquitoes. One would scarcely expect to meet
them here, but here they are in such numbers as to make
life a burden to the sojourners in these latitudes.
CHAPTER III.
PETKOPAULOVSKI.
U. S. S. Rodgers, Behrlng Sea.
July 28th, 1881.
Were it not that during the Crimean war the allied
enemies of Russia saw fit to attempt the capture of the
place, and thus gave it dignity that it would have been
difficult otherwise to acquire, one would believe Petro-
paulovski to be of little importance in the world. But
when in August, 1854, the combined fleets of England and
France, consisting of six frigates, assembled before the
town and landed a large force in its rear, they found it
fortified and defended by a small but determined band
of Russians and Cossacks, who, aided by topographical
advantages and palpable errors on the part of their adver-
saries, defeated them most ignominious] y with the loss
of most of the English and French officers, and about one
hundred and twenty men. On a hillside near the earth-
work, where the engagement took place, is a cemetery
about twenty feet square, within which are two mounds
surmounted by wooden crosses, bearing inscriptions in
the Russian language, which cover the remains of those
who fell on both sides during the fight. The cemetery is
surrounded by a neat paling fence, painted white, and is
not lacking in picturesque effect, at the foot of the high,
rugged hill, and flanked by the grass-grown ruins of the
fort, and the powder magazine.
23
24 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Petropaulovski is correctly pronounced with the accent
on "paul," and gently sliding over the remaining sylla-
bles. It is situated in a valley between high hills, with
wooded slopes on the sides least exposed to the prevailing
winds. Its houses are small, and chiefly made of roughly
hewn logs, the poorer ones thatched with straw. Many
of the government buildings, the warehouses of the Rus-
sian Fur Company, and the dwellings of the principal
citizens, are of boards imported from foreign ports, and
neatly painted. There is but one street that could properly
be so called, and that is but about thirty feet wide. The
houses are apparently not arranged with any reference to
the so-called street, but are erected wherever the conven-
ience or whim of the builder suggested. There are two
church buildings, the old and the new. The former a
dilapidated but picturesque edifice of hewn logs, with
many angles and projections, and surmounted by a green
cupola, of curious design, somewhat oriental in its archi-
tecture. The new church is of boards, painted white,
with a flight of broad, new stairs leading up to the front
door. It is situated in a miniature park, through which
trickles a mountain rivulet, whose banks are studded with
tombstones, amid which, gloomy and peculiar, stands the
black iron pillar commemorating the death of the Rus-
sian explorer, Vitus Behring, whose tomb is upon the
island, about two hundred and fifty miles away, where
his vessel was wrecked in the year 1741, and he sub-
sequently died. In the same graveyard, on the oppo-
site side of the church, is a tombstone of black marble
inscribed in Russian characters, showing that it was
erected to the memory of the officers and crew of a small
Russian trading vessel, wrecked some time ago upon one
of the Kurile islands, all on board perishing. The tomb-
PETROPA ULOVSKL 25
stone was sent out from Russia to be erected at the place
of the disaster ; but as it would probably never be seen
there, it was thought better to give it the wide publicity
of the grave-yard in Petropaulovski, which has about four
hundred inhabitants, and one overland mail each year.
The new church was built and is kept in repair by the
Russian Fur Company, which is really but another name
for the Alaska Commercial Company, enabling them to
enjoy the same privileges of the seal fisheries on Behring
and Copper islands, under the Russian jurisdiction, as are
accorded to them by the United States government upon
the Aleutian islands. This church is occupied for services
in summer only ; and the smaller and more easily warmed
old church accommodates the few who desire the com-
forts of religion in the long winter, when the building is
entirely covered with snow, and is entered through a long
passage way excavated through the drift. The services
are conducted by a priest and two deacons, all of whom
are occasionally to be seen about town, always dressed in
long silken gowns which reach to their heels, and are
belted at the waist with a band of the same material. A
tall black felt hat is worn over long hair, and flowing
beards adorn their faces. The priest wears around his
neck a long golden chain, to which is attached a large
golden crucifix, presented to the wearer by the late Em-
peror of Russia. Not very long ago the resident Arch-
bishop of the Greek Church on the Pacific coast of the
United States paid a visit to Petropaulovski, and, as
Captain Hunter told me, had much difficulty in securing
recognition from the inhabitants, because he did not wear
long hair and beard, and discarded his churchly raiment
when not engaged in conducting services.
There is only one store in town, but as there is no money
2G ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
among the inhabitants, except the government officials,
military and clerical, and the foreign residents, one store
is at least sufficient. General sympathy would naturally
be with the storekeeper, and the wonder be how he
makes a living. But Mr. Mulawansky, the storekeeper,
a native of Russian Poland, who speaks English and
French with equal fluency as his native tongue, is an
enterprising fur trader, and during the winter months
makes several extended sledge journeys into the interior,
thereby accumulating a large stock of the most valuable
skins to be obtained ; as through long experience he has
become one of the most expert judges of furs in the land.
He sends all his trade to London for a market, and can
never be prevailed to sell a single skin to a visitor.
" Why wouldn't you sell me that sea-otter skin for one
hundred dollars ? You say it will bring you only that in
London, and by selling it now you would not have to
wait so long for your money," said Lieutenant Berry.
" Because," said Mulawansky, " I want to retain your
friendship. I would gladly do anything I can to aid you
or to accommodate you in any way, and am always happy
to entertain you to the extent of my ability. If, how-
ever, I were to sell you that skin, even for what it cost
me, or a little more, when you took it to a furrier at
home to be dressed and made up he would naturally ask
where you got it and what you paid for it. He would
then, inspired perhaps by jealousy, assert that it was not
worth so much, and you would therefore think Mulawan-
sky had cheated you. Then I would lose your friendship. ' '
This seemed reasonable enough and an unanswerable
argument, and the subject was not continued, especially
as the Lieutenant was not anxious to become a purchaser,
but asked merely for information.
PETROPA ULO VSKL 27
Previous to settling in Petropaulovski, Mr. Mulawansky
had led a very adventurous life among the Indians of the
Pacific coast in British Columbia and Alaska, and many
are the hair-breadth escapes that he has encountered
among his warlike and treacherous customers. Several
times he has been shot at, and he now bears two ugly
gun-shot wounds, obtained at the hands of the Indians
while living among them, one upon his left fore-arm and
another upon his left leg. Resolution and courage,
backed by a thorough knowledge of the ways of the
savages, and the best means of conciliating them when
necessary, have carried him through many adventures
which he would not readily encounter again, since he has
become accustomed to the comforts of a peaceful life with
a wife and children growing up around him. He has
amassed a large fortune in his business, and is liberal in
his dealings with others. Indeed, without the assistance
of such people as Mulawansky and Captain Hunter, the
poorer citizens would find it hard to pull through the long
winters when food is scarce, for, like most uncivilized
people, the Kamtchadals are improvident, and make no
provision for the season when game and fish are scarce.
The morning after our arrival, Lieutenant Berry and I,
accompanied by Captain Hunter, called upon Mr. Sara-
brenekoff, the Ispravnik, or Military Governor, who lives
in a centrally-located house, one story high, of white
painted boards and the customary red roof, put up at the
expense of the government for the use of its representa-
tives. It is quite a comfortable residence for that coun-
try, and is heated, as are all the larger houses, by an oven
or "Peachka," as it is called, made of bricks, and con-
taining arched flues to allow the heat to circulate through-
out the structure. A wood fire is built within, and when
28 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
the smoke has escaped through the chimney it is closed,
and small apertures about three inches in diameter are
opened into each room adjoining the peachka, through
which the heat pours into the room. The bricks have by
this time become thoroughly heated, and retain their
caloric a long time, thus with very little fuel keeping the
building at a pleasant temperature throughout the day.
As the climate, even in the severest weather, is not colder
than about twenty degrees below zero, unusual means
would not be necessary for securing heat were it not that
wood is scarce, and has to be brought from across Avatcha
Bay, a distance of about twelve miles. We entered the
Ispravnik' s house by a vestibule, where we hung up our
hats, and, without the formality of knocking, walked
into the parlor, a pleasant room with painted floor and
modern furniture, plain but comfortable. The governor's
wife, a comely little woman, shortly afterward joined
us, and, when shaking hands, expressed, I presume, her
pleasure at meeting us, but this impression was derived
rather from her smile than from what she said, of which
I did not understand a word. She, however, passed
around some "papyrosa," that is, Russian cigarettes,
and, lighting one, seated herself for a comfortable smoke.
Presently her husband entered, clad in a green, double-
breasted military coat trimmed with red cord, with gilt
shoulder-knots upon his shoulders and two rows of white-
metal buttons down his breast. He evidently meant to
be pleasant, though dignified and formal ; but conversation
was neither general nor brilliant. He, however, informed
us that an earthquake had shaken the town about an
hour before we called ; but it must have been slight, as we
had not noticed it upon the water. After a brief call,
during which he renewed his assurances of assistance, we
PETROPA ULOVSKL 29
bade the Ispravnik and his pretty wife good day, and went
to Captain Hunter's residence near by, where we had been
invited to dine. We had a pleasant and bountiful meal,
with fresh beef and vegetables grown in our host' s own
garden, and plenty of rich milk, which was especially
gratifying.
We called later upon Mr. Mulawansky, where, as every-
where else in the town, we were regaled with tea made
from a " Samowar," which is pronounced Samovar, the
last syllable accented. Whenever you see the letter " w "
in Russian you must call it "v." For instance, I found
difficulty in explaining to some Russian officers, most of
whom spoke at least a little English, and some quite well,
what I meant by Wrangel Land until I pointed out the
place on the map, when they exclaimed as with one voice,
" Yrangel Island, yes." Why tea from a samowar should
taste better than when made any other way I am at a loss
to explain, and yet its universal use in Russia, a nation
of tea- drinkers, would seem to confirm such an impres-
sion. The samowar is only a vessel wherein to boil the
water of which the tea is made. It is an urn, usually of
brass lined with white metal, and with a hollow cylinder
passing vertically through the centre. Into this cylinder
is put a quantity of burning charcoal, the space surround-
ing it being filled with water which is heated thereby.
In order to create more draft for the burning charcoal, a
chimney, which is also of brass, is put on over the cyl-
inder, and after the gases have entirely escaped, the
chimney is removed, and in its place is put a circular
cover so made as to admit of a small China tea-pot rest-
ing upon it, in case it be desirable to keep it warm. Into
the tea-pot is put the requisite amount of tea, and when
the water is boiling hot a small quantity is drawn off
30 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
upon the leaves in the pot, thus in a few minutes pro-
ducing a strong essence of tea. I was cautioned against
filling the tea-pot more than half full of water, as by so
doing a large part of the aroma would be lost. It was
also enjoined that the shorter the time required for steep-
ing the leaves the more fragrant would be the tea. When
the essence of tea is ready a small portion is placed into
glass tumblers, and diluted, according to the taste of each
guest, with water from the samowar. Great stress was
laid upon the advantage of using tumblers instead of tea-
cups, as it was thus easier for the lady of the house to
gauge the exact amount of tea essence required for each
person. If the tea in the tea-pot is to be kept warm for
others, or to replenish the glasses of the guests, it is al-
lowed to rest upon the circular holder over the cylinder
of the samowar, but the choicest beverage is that served
without submitting the tea-pot to other heat than is
derived from the hot water. It may have been an over-
wrought imagination that inspired the thought, but it
seemed to me that I never drank such delicious tea as
was everywhere tendered me from the samowars of the
hospitable people of Petropaulovski. Before the Rodger s
left, my newly acquired friend, Mr. Mulawansky, pre-
sented me with one of the magic urns, and I hope to put
it to good use when we reach our winter quarters on
Wrangel Land.
This curious little town presents one strange feature
in being a community of between four and five hundred
people who can get along pleasantly without lawyers and
without courts of justice. I was told by an old resident,
who is quite familiar with life in more civilized portions
of the globe, that during the past eighteen years not a
single crime has been developed in this neighborhood
PETE OP A UL VSKL 31
that required magisterial interference. There are no
police there except the few Cossacks, who are distin-
guished from the civilians by red cording around the
edge of their caps. On landing at the beach, where a
miniature plank dock leads from the deck of a sunken
hulk that serves as a wharf to the shore, I had noticed a
small box, large enough to hold a man erect, built against
the wall of a warehouse, locked and bearing the seal of
the imperial government. I wondered at the time for
what purpose it was intended, but did not find out until
two or three nights afterward, when, returning from an
entertainment in town, I was startled by a salute in a
deep bass voice which seemed in the darkness to have
come out of the bowels of the earth, but which to my
relief I found emerged through the tawny beard of a
Cossack who stood within the sentry box guarding the
town against surprise by another invasion of hostile
fleets. The structure had looked to me like a sentry
box, but I could not realize the necessity for sentinels
here upon the outskirts of civilization.
I said I was returning to the ship from an entertain-
ment, and I will endeavor to describe the fete, as not
without interest in showing how the people amuse them-
selves in such a place as Petropaulovski. There are a few
people residing here who are not natives, but have ac-
quired education and cultivation in the customs of polite
society in other parts of the world. They have been
drawn here chiefly by the attraction of profitable busi-
ness in the fur trade, and some have taken root by marry-
ing into the native or the Russian element. Among these
are, beside Captain Hunter and Mr. Mulawansky, Captain
Lugebil, agent of the Alaska Commercial Company ; Mr.
SaDdylane and Dr. Federer, the schoolmaster ; for in rear
32 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
of the new church edifice is a small school-house, built
and maintained by the Russo-American Fur Company.
Captain Sandman, of the steamer Alexander, was also
temporarily residing in town, with his wife and family,
and his bluff, hearty good nature proved an attractive
feature of every entertainment. The people assemble in
the early evening at the house to which they are invited,
and with the giddy excitement of four large steamers in
the harbor, there was a social gathering every night while
we were in port. The officers of all the other vessels
were nearly all Russians, and perfectly at home in society
where I could only show my civilization by smiling and
accepting every thing that was offered in the way of eat-
ing and drinking. I won a high place in the esteem of
my hostess on several occasions by the hearty manner
with which I devoured raw herring and pickled salmon.
Nothing inspires your Russian entertainer with greater
respect than the exhibition of unusual powers of diges-
tion and perfect readiness to partake of raw fish, radishes,
milk, pickled salmon, tea, brown bread and caviar, at a
moment's notice. I did not know half the time what I
was asked to eat, but I did not intend to show my igno-
rance by inquiring, or any lack of interest by declining.
Most of the fare was indeed delicious, and especially so
to one just from the monotonous diet of canned meats and
vegetables on ship-board. In nearly every house, too, I
found some one who spoke English, and could always ex-
press my ideas when necessary. Lieutenant Berry and I
attended a reception and ball at Captain Lugebil' s resi-
dence on Friday night. The captain is a Russian by birth,
but became a citizen of the United States by the transfer
of Alaska. He was in the employ of the Alaska Commer-
cial Company for a long time, and went to Petropaulovski
PETROPA ULO VSKL 33
to represent the company's interests there. As he felt
that he could not be a good citizen without adopting some
line of politics, he has taken sides with the Democrats,
and, together with Captain Hunter, a former resident of
Baltimore, who is also a Democrat, mourns the defeat of
General Hancock at the last election. Captain Hunter
has not visited his native land for twenty-three years.
He speaks the Russian language fluently, is married to a
Russian lady, and has an interesting family of children,
none of whom speak English. Upon his parlor walls, as
well as in Captain Lugebil's house, hangs a photographic
likeness of the late President Andrew Johnson, who prob-
ably never knew that even in a little Kamtchadal town,
upon the borders of the Arctic world, were those who
recognized and admired his genius. Captain Lugebil's
house, which was erected by the company he represents,
is the most civilized and pretentious dwelling in town,
even more so than the new one of the Ispravnik, which that
functionary will occupy when his deputy comes out next
spring ; for arrangements have already been made for en-
hancing the importance of the place by increasing the
government detail there, and making it also a military
post. This will be a good thing for the town by bringing
more government money into circulation.
As we passed through the churchyard on the evening
of Captain Lugebil' s reception, our ears were greeted by
the cheerful strains of music and the tripping of merry
feet to the accompaniment of the " Babies on the Block,"
played with great spirit upon a large parlor organ by our
gray-haired host, who exerted himself to the utmost to
promote the cheerfulness of his guests. When he wearied
of playing, for no matter how devoted he might be he
was only mortal, there needed to be no cessation of danc-
3
34 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ing, for the accompaniment was immediately taken np by
a hand-organ, vigorously ground by a volunteer from
among the guests, which merely substituted " What Kind
of Slippers do the Angels Wear % " and, with organized
relays of grinders, could keep it up indefinitely. The
social spirit of the worthy old captain could not be re-
strained even when relieved from the responsibility of
acting as orchestra, but, rushing to the crank of the hand-
organ, he stirred the dancers up to a livelier measure, and
encouraged them to greater enthusiasm by himself danc-
ing up and down with extraordinary vigor as he indus-
triously plied the handle of the groaning instrument.
Among the guests were several of the officers of the Rus-
sian man-of-war, who were ubiquitous and exceedingly
friendly. They were in uniform ; and it is needless to
say were very popular, especially among the ladies. The
female society, without which all balls are "flat, stale,
and unprofitable," consisted of Mrs. Lugebil, her three
handsome daughters — who have experienced the refining
influences of San Francisco society ; Mrs. Captain Sand-
man, who has enjoyed the same privilege ; Mrs. Mula-
wansky, Mrs. Sarabrenekoff, and several young ladies
whose cards I have mislaid, and whose names I am sure
could never be recorded with the limited supply of con-
sonants in the English alphabet. They were all good
natured and anxious to entertain, but, in the absence of
a general means of communication, conversation at times
flagged. But then there was the never-failing source of
amusement — dancing ; and some one always on the floor,
or ready to accept an invitation. I should not omit to
mention that the table that supported the hand-organ
was spread, and often replenished during the evening,
with cold meats, raw and pickled herring and salmon.
PETR OP A UL VSEL 35
beets, cheese, black and white bread, fresh butter, caviar,
and other delicacies. There was also a liberal supply of
light California wines, whiskey, bottled Milwaukee beer,
and home-made small beer — somewhat tart and spicy,
and very agreeable to the taste. Cigars and Russian
cigarettes of fine Turkish tobacco abounded, and ladies
and gentlemen all smoked with the most comfortable
freedom. Captain Lugebil, who speaks English perfectly,
insisted upon our regaling ourselves at pleasure, and him-
self set the example. The Russians are among the friend-
liest of people. If ever one raised his eyes to glance
about the room, glasses must be clinked all around ; and
on meeting and parting you are expected to shake hands
with every one present, even though it be a dozen times
a day. Lieutenant Berry and I had to depart early, but
the festivities were kept up until about two o'clock in
the morning.
The next evening a ball was given on shore by some of
the officers of the Strelock, with, whom we have established
the most friendly relations, and several of the officers of the
Rodger s accepted the cordial general invitation extended
to us, and indulged in a merry-making such as they never
before witnessed. A number of the young ladies of Petro-
paulovski society lent the charm of their presence to the
occasion, and the countenance of many of the older dames
was not wanting. Unfortunately, my duties required my
attention on board the vessel, where I was engaged in
writing at half -past three o' clock, when the revellers re-
turned. It was unnecessary for me to ask if they had en-
joyed themselves. That fact was sufficiently apparent in
the moistened locks and wilted collars of the dancers. The
fun had been fast and furious, and though many of the
figures of the dance were new and most difficult of exe-
36 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
cution, they had not faltered in the attempt. Indeed
during the latter part of the evening nothing but " ground
and lofty tumbling" would answer, and even the staid and
dignified members of the search expedition did not hesi-
tate to follow the example of a pious-looking lieutenant of
the Russian frigate, who exhausted his English in ex-
claiming, "God save the Queen," turned two somersaults
in the middle of the floor, and drank to " Russia and
America " amid loud shouts of applause and the clinking
of many glasses.
Although we arrived at Petropaulovski in a drizzling
rain, which continued for a day or two afterward, such
is not the usual climate of the harbor. Indeed Captain
Hunter told me that this was the first rain they had been
blest with for more than a month, and prayers had been
offered up in the church for rain. The last two days of
our stay were delightful, or would have been were it not
for the heat and the mosquitoes. We had the pleasure
of seeing the volcanoes that surround the bay in all
their grandeur. Through a gap in the hills to the north
of the town rose the snow-clad peaks of Korianski, Avat-
cha, and Koselska, the first named eleven thousand live
hundred feet high, the second over nine thousand, and
most always in action, while the last has attained the
no mean altitude of five thousand three hundred feet.
About thirty miles to the southward stands Wiluchinski,
its crest over seven thousand feet above the level of the
sea. It not only serves to add interest to the landscape,
but is said to be a most perfect barometer, and as such is
constantly watched by the residents of Petropaulovski.
When its' entire outline is clearly cut against the sky, it
is an indication that the following day will bring fair
weather, and the approach of storms or foggy weather is
PETROPA ULO VSKL 37
foretold by clouds that hide the peak merely, or conceal
the entire mountain from view. These peaks are never
devoid of snow, although the soil in the valleys is suscep-
tible of a high state of cultivation, and is very fertile.
The people, however, have no ambition to become farmers,
even though the prospect of good crops is so flattering.
Their chief dependence for food is upon fish, which
abound in the waters of the harbor and the bay. During
the season, a net cast anywhere near the town, and at any
time of the day, can be hauled in full of salmon, tom-cod,
smelt, bass, and herring. Large quantities of salmon are
dried during the summer months for food for the people
and their dogs, and when thus prepared are called "yu-
kal." A fish and a half of the average size are counted
as a day's ration for each dog when working. Before
being hung up to dry they are cleaned and salted, but
later in the season vast quantities are buried in the ground
and covered over without cleaning, to be used when the
prepared food is exhausted. It thus becomes tainted, but,
as with the Esquimaux, the bad smell and taste is not ob-
jectionable to a hungry Kamtchadal stomach. Along the
shores of the harbor, as well as upon the neighboring
bay, could be seen numbers of picturesque drying-sheds,
thatched with straw, the sides open to the wind, and sun-
burnt men, women, and children salting and hanging the
fish beneath the shelter. Often considerable annoyance
is occasioned by the onslaughts of blue-bottle flies, which
deposit their larvae in the fish, and after that they soon
become food for worms.
The pasturage for cows, horses, and sheep is found
upon the neighboring hillsides and in the streets of the
village, and consequently an ordinance of the town pro-
hibits dogs to run at large on pain of death, as they worry
38 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
the cattle and kill the sheep. They are therefore kept
chained up in the vicinity of the town, but far enough
away to prevent their constant howling disturbing the
repose of their owners at night. Horned cattle and horses
were seen everywhere about the village ; but some time
before our advent a dog got loose and drove a flock of
sheep belonging to Mr. Mulawansky to the mountains,
where, by this time, he says, they have become wild, and
can only be captured by shooting them.
Bears are numerous in the neighboring mountains, and
have been known to approach the village during the win-
ter and destroy the cattle in the very streets. The skin
of the bear has an excellent quality of fur during the
winter. It is of a light brown color, and available for
making rugs, but has no commercial value. It is a sin-
gular phenomenon that, together with all the wild ani-
mals of the Arctic regions, the dogs, horses, and cows of
this country have, during the winter, a heavy coating of
woolly fur under the hair that covers their bodies, as an
additional protection against the rigors of the climate.
Since reaching the northern waters, Drs. Jones and
Castillo have been very active in securing " specimens,"
for scientific analysis and classification, from sea and
land. The drag net is nearly always astern, and the
dredge was used in Petropaulovski harbor with " valua-
ble results," as they informed me; but my unpractised
eye could only discover a quantity of black mud with a
squirming mass of hideous insects. Several birds were
secured and suffered martyrdom in the cause of science at
the hands of the medical men, who preserved the skins
and bones for " setting up," as they say when they mean
stuffing. One or two of these birds were probably rare,
and undoubtedly beautiful. Day after day, Dr. Jones,
PETR OP A UL VSKL . 39
Mr. de Tracie, the ship's carpenter, with Mr. Bulger,
chief engineer of the Alexander, who is well acquainted
with the country, trudged over the neighboring hills in
search of something to kill and skin, and were sometimes
rewarded with ''valuable specimens." Dr. Castillo, my
room mate, is an inveterate " bug hunter," and has lost all
consideration for insects of every kind except as entomo-
logical specimens. His most familiar attitude is with one
eye screwed up and the other gazing through the tube of
a microscope in search of " animal life," as he says, in
the phosphorescent sea water. In this way he has un-
consciously contracted a very extraordinary expression —
similar to that of a person addicted to the use of a sin-
gle eye glass. In making inquiry concerning the sanitary
statistics of Petropaulovski, Dr. Jones found that the
prevailing ailments were of a scrofulous nature, resulting
from disease said to have been introduced by the sailors
of La Perouse's vessel when he visited this coast in the lat-
ter part of the eighteenth century. There are also several
cases of leprosy in town, probably from the same cause.
The government caused to be erected some time ago a
hospital for the treatment of the diseases peculiar to the
locality, and sent a physician, who is a political exile, to
take charge of it. But the hospital is at present empty,
and the surgeon has gone upon a trip to the lower part of
the peninsula of Kamtchatka. This is not owing to any
diminution of the disease, but rather to the laxity with
which government affairs are administered at such great
distances from the throne.
The second day after our arrival Lieutenant Berry sent
two boats across Avatcha Bay in charge of Mr. Putnam,
the senior watch officer, to bring back some dogs and dried
fish from a settlement about twelve miles distant, and
40 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Chief Engineer Zane and Dr. Castillo went along to obtain
an idea of roughing it in the northern "bush." They
were accompanied by the native to whom most of the
dogs belonged, who is said to be a fine hunter and one of
the richest and most enterprising citizens of the country.
When they were about to start, Mr. Mulawansky sent
them a mosquito net, which had naturally been omitted
from the outfit of the boats, and as they would have to
camp out over night he knew they would find it useful.
It was fortunate for them that he had been so thoughtful,
otherwise they would have been severely tormented, and,
as it was, were not altogether exempt from the attacks of
the little pests. Even Dr. Castillo lost his patience, and
slaughtered " interesting specimens" without mercy. A
few of the natives from the village near by gathered around
them and performed many friendly offices, such as bring-
ing wood and water for the camp, and giving the strangers
plenty of nice fresh milk. In return, our people shared
their food with the simple-hearted Kamtchadals, and es-
tablished relations of friendship with them. They were
not sorry, however, to return to the ship, and bade adieu
to their new friends and the mosquitoes without a tear.
They brought twenty-one dogs back with them, and it
appears to be a very fine collection, perhaps not the best,
but good, serviceable young dogs. Altogether we secured
forty-seven full-grown dogs and several puppies, which
will be available for the teams next spring. The price of
a dog was established at fifteen roubles, that is, seven
dollars and a half, but we bought two fine animals the
night before we left Petropaulovski for twenty roubles
(five dollars apiece). Lieutenant Berry, Dr. Castillo and
I went to the nearest beach with the man who offered
them for sale, to see how they would work in harness. It
PETROPA ULOVSKI. 41
was amusing to see the almost frantic anxiety of the ani-
mals to be harnessed when they saw the sled brought out,
and heard the rattle of the harness-chains. Fletcher, the
owner, drove them without much trouble, and they
dragged him with great speed over the rank grass and
weeds. Then he invited Lieutenant Berry to get on and
ride, but, before he got fairly into the seat, the dogs broke
away from Fletcher, and dashed at full speed down the
sand spit. I expected they would keep on without stop-
ping until they got to the town or maybe the next village;
but before long some misunderstanding arose between
two of the dogs, and they stopped to fight it out, when
Fletcher caught them again and brought them back. It
was amusing to hear this man Fletcher talk. He is an
Englishman, born in London, where his father at one time
kept an ale house ; but he has lived in Kamtchatka so long
that he speaks his native tongue very imperfectly, and
with the broken accent peculiar to the coasfc where he
now lives. His father, now very old and feeble, also lives
in Petropaulovski.
There is very little circulating medium in this country.
The standard of exchange is the " rouble" and the " cop-
pick," valued in round numbers at fifty cents and half a
cent respectively. Fletcher says that times are hard now ;
he don't make any money though he works hard. He
says he used to make sometimes two hundred roubles a
day. I think, however, he was exaggerating the truth
somewhat in order to impress us with the value of his
acquaintance, for I don't believe he would make as much
as that now in ten years. Fresh salmon sell for two cop-
picks (one cent) each, and herring for one coppick. There
is not a very lively fortune in that market I am sure.
At Petropaulovski we secured about twenty-five "Ku-
42 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
klankers," which are coats of reindeer skin with a
hood to cover the head, the whole garment being al-
most identical with the "Koolitar" of the Esquimaux,
but of finer workmanship, and altogether more ornamen-
tal. They cost from sixteen to forty roubles each, but
will prove an inestimable blessing during the approaching
winter. We also obtained a quantity of fur boots, stock-
ings, and gloves, which, with what we may find among
the natives further north, will comprise a complete outfit
for the entire crew. In compliance with written instruc-
tions from their principals, the Alaska Commercial Com-
pany, Captain Lugebil and Captain Sandman refused any
remuneration for what they supplied our vessel, hay for
the cattle, and several cords of woods for kindling pur-
poses, and offered anything in their stores.
We got under way at five o'clock of the afternoon of
the 24th instant, and steamed out into the bay, the ves-
sels in the harbor dipping their flags as a parting salute,
and Wiluchinski smiling his assurance of fair weather.
Notwithstanding his promise, however, we found the
usual fog awaiting us at the entrance of the bay ; but as we
had our bearings and knew our course it made little
difference other than depriving us of a fine view of the
mountains we had anticipated enjoying as we steamed up
the coast. One circumstance annoyed rather than sur-
prised us ever since leaving San Francisco, and that is the
remarkable prevalence of head winds. From San Francisco
to Petropaulovski we had north-west winds most all the
time, and from Petropaulovski to St. Michael nothing
but north-easterly winds. But then I suppose it was
about time it should change.
:-mm
W; ■■A
vfi-:.
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r. • - 1 '-
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Stvf^MS
X st
Q .g
CHAPTEK IV.
ST. MICHAEL'S.
U. S. S. Modgers, St. Michael's, Alaska Ter.,
August 10th, 1881.
It was blowing a gale from nearly the direction of onr
course, and we were anxiously looking for land when we
sighted Stnart Island, in Norton Sound, on the afternoon
of August 3d. We would have seen the island sooner
had it not been for the mist that hung over the horizon
to windward, and made the navigation of poorly sur-
veyed waters, in search of an unfrequented harbor, a dan-
gerous task. The sea was running very high when we
came to anchor, at dark, under the shelter of Stuart
Island, to wait for daylight to aid us. About five o'clock
the following morning we got under way, and steamed
slowly on our course in a dismal rain and fog. The lead
was kept going constantly, the quartermaster calling in
a dreary, monotonous voice the depth of water found at
each cast of the lead. Again we were compelled to drop
anchor on account of shallow water and the concealment
of the few known landmarks under the mist. About
eleven o'clock the fog lifted a little, and we could see the
little settlement of St. Michael's, about seven miles dis-
tant, and shortly afterward dropped anchor beyond the
point of land that forms a shelter for the harbor, a few
antiquated iron guns bellowing forth a salute. Soon a
45
46 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
boat was descried putting off from the beach near the
fort ; and in a little while Mr. Lorenz, agent of the Alaska
Commercial Company, and Sergeant Leavitt, United
States signal observer, came on board to welcome ns
and receive the mail matter we had brought for them
from San Francisco.
They informed us that the revenue cutter Thomas
Corwin had been here twice, and had left for the Arctic on
the 9th of July, since which time they had not heard from
her. They also gave the very welcome intelligence that
last winter had been unprecedentedly mild, and the pres-
ent was an unusually open season. The whaling fleet
had been exceedingly successful, and already several
vessels had returned to the United States with full
cargoes. The Corwin, before her first visit here, had
landed a sledge party on the Siberian coast, about Plover
Bay, they believed, to investigate the rumor that came
through the natives there that the wreck of a vessel had
drifted ashore on the northern coast, about the vicinity of
Koliutchin Bay. In the mean time they had spent five
days at St. Lawrence Island collecting further informa-
tion and relics concerning the fatal famine on that island
during the winter of 1879-80. A large number of skele-
tons were taken on board the Corwin, to be deposited in
the Smithsonian Institute. This was the occasion of
quite an interesting scene on board that' vessel. Mr.
Nelson, the previous signal observer at St. Michael's, had
obtained permission to accompany the Corwin in her
present cruise, and had taken with him, as an interpreter,
a native of the tribe of Esquimaux whose village is within
a quarter of a mile of Fort St. Michael's. The Esqui-
maux are a very superstitious people, as your corre-
spondent has had occasion to observe in other parts of
ST. MICHAEL'S. 47
the Arctic world, and nothing, in their belief, will pro-
duce such universal misery as to disturb the mortal
remains of any of their nation who have died. When,
therefore, this poor savage saw the scientists of the
Cor win coming on board the vessel with their arms filled
with the bones of the victims of the famine on St. Law-
rence Island, he was beside himself with horror, and en-
deavored to kill himself by plunging a knife into his
heart. Fortunately his hand was arrested by some by-
standers before he had inflicted mortal injury upon him-
self. This, however, did not prevent a second attempt at
suicide, which he made by jumping into the sea. Again
he was rescued, and, for the time being, his mind averted
from felo de se, but it is highly probable that he will
make another and more successful effort when he returns
to his former home. Upon returning to the Siberian coast
to pick up their sledging party, the Corwin learned that
they had visited the scene of the wreck, and from a care-
ful inspection it was believed to have belonged to the lost
whaler Vigilant. Among the debris were portions of a
forecastle, and several articles within it marked with a
letter "V." My informants believed there was nothing
found to indicate the escape of the crew, and the suppo-
sition was that the ship had been crushed in the ice, and
all on board had perished.
The finding of these relics seems to indicate that the
natives of the northern coast of Siberia are observant,
and that the wind or currents have, at times at least, a
tendency to make that coast a depository of wrecks in
that portion of the Polar Sea ; in which event news would
soon be obtained of disaster to the expeditionary vessel
Jeannette. Should, therefore, nothing be heard of her
through the sea-coast Tchouktchis, there remains a grati-
48 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
f ying presumption of her safety and probable harborage
upon Wrangel Land.
Mr. Lorenz told us that two hundred tons of coal had
come for us by the St. Paul, and was now on the beach
near his warehouses ; but as we could not get within about
three-quarters of a mile of the wharf, and the coal had to
be towed out in a lighter that could carry but about ten
tons, we had little prospect of getting away within a week
or ten days. This delay was exceedingly galling after
hearing of the open season further north, but every one set
to work with the determination of hastening our depart-
ure as much as possible. All hands were called at four
o'clock in the morning, and work continued daily until
about eight o'clock. In the meantime, Mr. Lorenz set
about the task of supplying the deficiency in fur clothing.
Mr. Grenfield, the agent of the Western Fur Trading
Company, also furnished what clothing he could spare,
and to-morrow when we leave this place we will be pretty
well supplied with the necessary Arctic outfit.
I went ashore with Mr. Lorenz in his boat with a crew
of natives, and had a very pleasant visit ; while Mr. Stoney
and Mr. Hunt, in two of the ship's boats, spent several
hours in sounding the harbor for a closer anchorage to
the settlement. They succeeded in finding a channel and
anchorage in three and a quarter fathoms of water, about
a quarter of a mile nearer the coal deposit ; but as the har-
bor is open to the north-east, a heavy blow from that
direction would produce a sea that would compel us to
get up steam and move out to deeper water. In fact,
yesterday afternoon we were treated to a storm from
that quarter, which at low tide bumped us against the
soft muddy bottom, and fires were quickly made under
the boilers j but before steam could be made the sea
ST. MICHAEL'S. . 49
abated, and by the time of high water we were again
floating comfortably, though very close to the bottom.
Lieutenant Berry, however, ordered the fires under the
boilers to be banked during the remainder of our stay here,
so that we can run from danger at a moment' s warning.
It was indeed a surprise as well as a pleasure to find
the residence of Mr. Lorenz, within the enclosure, not only
comfortable but elegant, and to see everywhere evidences
of the refining influences of female society. Seated in a
handsomely furnished parlor, I found Mrs. Lorenz, a
young and pretty woman, who has dared the severity of
the north, and has passed a winter in a higher latitude
than any other woman from the temperate zone. She is
a native of the State of Maine, and came here with her
husband last year. Her husband is a Russian, from
Odessa, who has been the agent of the Alaska Com-
mercial Company here for the past eight years. Last
year he took a holiday, and went to the United States,
where he visited a friend in Maine. There it was that he
lost his heart and found a partner for life. His wife is a
cultivated and intelligent lady, and a small, but well se-
lected library gave token of refined taste in literature.
One would naturally be surprised, here, beyond the limit
of civilization, to find a house with walls covered with
Morris paper, and carpet and chairs in keeping with that
style of decoration, so that I scarcely felt at ease there
in my coarse sailor garb. The welcome I received was
cordial, notwithstanding ; and it was not difficult to under-
stand that visitors from lower latitudes, brimful of later
news, would be welcome guests. I cannot say that it was
disagreeable to me, either, to have conversation invaded
by the merry tones of two canary birds, who poured forth
their welcome from their gilded cages with a heartiness
4
50 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
that was not in the least forced. Pots of flowers in bloom
filled the windows of the dwelling, and among them were
roses and camellias, together with other plants, that
brought me nearer home than I had felt myself to be
since leaving San Francisco.
The fort of St. Michael's, as it is called, is an enclosure
of dwellings and warehouses, the interstices filled with a
high wooden fence that was originally erected as a pro-
tection against the assaults of hostile Indians. The fence
of the present day is, however, maintained rather as a
shelter against the winds than to guard against sav-
ages. The neighboring tribes are mild and peaceful,
unless under the influence of liquor, which they still
procure at exorbitant prices in exchange for furs and
whalebone from whaling vessels and traders in violation
of the existing laws, which are so strict that the agents of
the American trading companies cannot even bring any
kinds of liquors, wines or beer here for their own use.
Mr. Lorenz says that, while he cannot land beer for his
table or cartridges for breech-loading guns for his own
use, he can buy liquor or cartridges from the natives
at any time. He would have to pay heavy prices, how-
ever. I asked him how this illegal traffic could be carried
on while a government vessel, sent here to prevent it,
was constantly cruising in Behring Sea and adjacent wa-
ters. He replied, that it appeared to him as if the cruisers
were maintained as much for the purpose of collecting
scientific specimens for the Smithsonian Institute as for
anything else. He also says that the quality of liquor
brought by the whalers and traders was the cheapest and
vilest stuff that can be procured ; and that in order to
make it strong enough to gratify the savage palate, after
it has been watered sufficiently to gratify the cupidity of
ST. MICHAEL'S. 51
the poachers, it is doctored with cayenne pepper, tobacco
juice, and other powerful ingredients, until the wonder is
that those who drink it are not killed at once. Its ulti-
mate effect can easily be predicted.
Several of the buildings within the enclosure are quite
old, having been erected by the Russians when the post
was first established, nearly half a century ago. They
were all built of drift-wood logs, roughly tongued and
grooved into each other, and calked on the outside and
inside. The result is an exceedingly strong and comfort-
able structure, impervious to the wind. Loose dirt is piled
up around the outside of each building to the height of
about three feet, and boarded over to protect it from the
rains. This keeps the wind from entering beneath the
flooring, and adds greatly to the comfort of the occu-
pants. Wood alone is used for fuel, and an abundant
supply for that purpose is found upon the neighboring
coast, constantly drifted down from the interior of Alaska
by the currents of the great rivers emptying into Beh-
ring Sea. Outside of the enclosure is a neat little church
of the Greek faith, also of logs, and surmounted by a red
painted cupola and wooden cross. Behind the kitchen is
a small kitchen-garden, where is raised, without much
trouble, a goodly supply of radishes, lettuce and turnips,
the excellent quality of which I can heartily affirm. This
is the last place in the direction of our wanderings where
the comforts of a Russian bath can be secured, and
through the courtesy of the kind-hearted agent all of
the ship's company who desired it were enabled to enjoy
the blessed privilege. He gave me a receipt, however, for
a Russian bath which may prove a real blessing in the far
north. It is as follows : Take a quantity of stones, and
erect an oven-like structure, within which make a fire of
52 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
drift-wood. When thoroughly heated put up a tent over
the stones, and close all apertures as much as possible.
Go inside, remove your clothing, and throw water upon
the stones until steam is generated, which will soon fill
the tent like a laundry on Monday morning. Continue
this application until perspiration is induced to the nec-
essary degree, and finish the process with a sponge and
tub of water, followed by brisk friction with coarse towels.
The result will be a blissful feeling, that must be experi-
enced to be appreciated. This bath is practicable in any
climate.
Adjoining Mr.Lorenz's residence is the dwelling occupied
by Mr. Leavitt, the signal officer, and Mr. Newman, Mr.
Lorenz's assistant. Their quarters are both commodious
and comfortable. The life of a signal observer in these
latitudes is necessarily exceedingly monotonous, but Mr.
Leavitt has set himself the entertaining and exciting task
of acquiring the Russian language, under the guidance of
Mr. Lorenz. The difficulties to be surmounted in this
undertaking will perhaps furnish him with all the mental
occupation he desires, and may in a measure compensate
him for his isolation from the usual comforts of ordinary
civilization. The rules of the service require him to record
synchronous observations with all the other signal posts,
and thus he is compelled to investigate the state of the wind
and weather at 1:20 a.m. ; an exhilarating duty in an Arctic
winter, but one he will scarcely be envied. His prede-
cessor was an indefatigable naturalist, and sent to the
Smithsonian Institute not only hundreds, but thousands of
specimens of the flora and fauna of this interesting locality.
The only other white men at the post are a tall white-
haired and white mustached Eussian workman, and a
gray -haired individual, who resides in the Esquimaux
ST. MICHAEL'S. 55
village near by, and is the Arctic representative of the
"squaw man" of the American frontier. Both have
native wives, and a colony of half-breed children to in-
herit their poverty.
I noticed that the natives were apparently both of Es-
quimaux and Indian extraction. I was greatly pleased
to see such perfect similarity of features and general
appearance between the natives of this section and the
Esquimaux of the Eastern coast of America. I had
been told that these people were all Indians, and spoke
an entirely different language from the Cumberland
Inlet and central tribes, and that even the people from
a few miles further north could not talk with them. I
had also heard entirely different names for familiar
objects in nature, such as the seal, whale, walrus, rein-
deer, etc., and the examples given as the names used by
the natives of this coast. My surprise and pleasure may
be imagined, then, when, after being with these people for
several days and only communicating with them through
an interpreter, I asked one of the men if he understood
the Inuit language, and saw his look of surprise, and heard
his quick reply " Armelar " (yes). We then opened quite
a lively conversation, and found less difficulty in under-
standing and being understood than with many of those
whom I met in Hudson Bay and the vicinity of King
William's Land. Some words were identical in both
sections, and the similarity of all was quite sufficient
to be readily understood. Since then I have talked with
many of them who had never heard white men speak
their language, and I was not surprised when one of the
interpreters told me one of them had just asked him if I
was a Kavearamute, that is, an Esquimaux of one of the
more northerly tribes.
56 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Those of the people who lived near the post I found to
have acquired many habits of civilization, living in rudely
made houses rather than in tents, and cooking food after
our own fashion. Indeed, the cook of Mr. Lorenz, the
agent of the company, was an Esquimaux named Joe,
who not only was an excellent chef, but quite an artist
with the pencil. At my request he made a few sketches
of native life, which he was particularly anxious should
be given to the world ; and I insert them here.
Several of the officers accompanied Mr. Lorenz to the
"Kashine" in the Esquimaux village to see a native
dance, which was procured by the inducement of a sack
of flour. The ■" Kashine" is a sort of town-hall for the
use of the male members of the tribe. It is built almost
entirely underground, and with a roof covered deeply
with earth. It is lighted through a skylight in the roof,
and entered by a passage-way and an opening which can
only be passed by crawling on hands and knees. It is
constructed of logs of drift-wood, and the dirt roof sup-
ported by ingenious interweaving and without columns.
Mr. Lorenz told me of one he had seen similarly con-
structed, fifty feet square, and the roof sustained without
the support of columns. In the centre of the room is a
deep pit, where in winter a fire is built to heat the build-
ing, after which it is closed, and the heat retained for an
entire day. In this building the men live most all the
time. Here they sleep and eat, and they seldom rest in
the bosom of their families. They have little of the home
feeling or parental attachment, and until lately used to
get rid of surplus babies by wrapping them up and leav-
ing them on the moors while still living, to become food
for foxes and wolves.
When we entered the " Kashine" we saw a few of the
ST. MICHAEL'S.
57
men sitting stretched asleep upon a shelf, about eighteen
inches wide and four feet high, which extends all around
the room against the wall. One young man prepared
himself for the dance, by stripping off all his clothing ex-
cept his trousers and putting on a pair of reindeer mit-
tens. Three old men perched upon the shelf, and armed
THE TRAPPER.
From an Esquimaux drawing.
with drums made of thin skin stretched over hoops,
and beaten with a stick, kept up a rhythmic measure,
at the same time singing a dismal chant in unison
and without words. The nearly naked youth leaped
across the pit in the middle of the room, and com-
menced a series of gyrations in time to the music,
58 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
straining his muscles to their fullest tension, and throwing
himself into attitudes of the chase and battle. Mean-
while he kept shouting as if wrought to the highest pitch
of excitement ; but soon paused, as the exertion was too
great to be continued for any length of time. When
rested he recommenced, and was shortly joined by
several children and another young man. The children
were in full evening costume, that is, had on nothing but
their mittens. The dance had more of the character of
Indian performances than any I had ever previously seen
among the Esquimaux. The entertainment was resumed
after intervals of rest, and lasted about half an hour,
when the reward of meal was brought in and portioned
out to the participants. None of the women joined in
the dance or mingled their voices with the orchestra, but
several were interested spectators, a sort of Esquimaux
wall-flower at the ball.
The men are good watermen, and use a skin kyack
similar to that of the eastern Esquimaux, but broader
and deeper, though not so long. Some are made with two
and even three holes for rowers, who use a single-bladed
paddle with great dexterity. They are said to be good
sea-boats, and able to ride out a very strong gale with-
out danger to the occupant.
Several of the officers went upon a hunting excursion
while here, and shot a large number of ducks, snipe, and
partridges. Dr. Castillo added largely to his ornithologi-
cal collection, and Dr. Jones succeeded in securing some
fine photographic views of people and places.
The Rodger s received her last load of coal this after-
noon, and will sail to-night or early to-morrow morning.
The entire amount of coal here was not taken aboard, be-
cause, in order to receive it, it would be necessary to
ST. MICHAEL'S.
59
throw overboard the cattle, the dogs, or the deck-load of
lumber ; but as none of them could well be spared the
coaling was stopped when the bunkers and deck were
filled to their utmost capacity.
Messrs. Lorenz and Leavitt, as well as Mr. Neuman and
Mr. Grenfield, have done everything possible to make
our visit an agreeable one, and to provide for our future
comfort. Our return will be looked forward to as a
source of pleasure, not only to these good people but to
ourselves as well.
PAKUOT-BILL GULLS.
From an Esquimaux drawing.
CHAPTER Y.
IN ST. LAWRENCE BAT.
On Board U. S. S. fiodgers,
St. Lawrence Bay, Siberia,
August 18th, 1881.
The sail from Plover Bay to this anchorage was about
the pleasant est and the briefest trip the Rodger s has yet
made. It was blowing hard when we weighed anchor
yesterday morning, bnt we felt there was no time to be
lost if we meant to accomplish anything in the Arctic this
season. Already we had been delayed most annoyingly,
and, though the weather bid fair to be boisterous, Captain
Berry determined to start. As soon as we reached the
open sea, after leaving Plover Bay, we noticed the fog
was rising, and soon the mists rolled away from the moun-
tains along the coast line and revealed a most gloriously
picturesque country. The snn now broke through the
clouds, and our good ship bowled along nearly ten knots
an hour. It was really exhilarating after the tedious
monotony of fog and rain with head- winds, which had
been our portion for so many weary days. All the
officers were on deck most of the day, and a bracing
air, with a temperature of 42°, made ns pity the poor
fellows at home who were at the same time trying to cool
their fevered pulses at Long Branch and Coney Island.
Before midnight we were so near the entrance of St. Law-
rence Bay that Captain Berry thought it advisable to heave-
to and wait for daylight to enter the harbor.
60
IN ST. LAWRENCE BAY. 61
We had expected to meet Captain De Livron and the
Kussian frigate Strelock at Plover Bay, but found that
he had waited there for us several days, and left a note
with one of the natives, saying he would await us at St.
Lawrence Bay, if he did not find us there already ; our
unfortunate delay at St. Michael's, caused by the diffi-
culty experienced in taking on board the necessary coal,
having led him to believe we had omitted Plover Bay
from our schedule. Captain De Livron came on board
soon after our arrival, and gave us some news of so sen-
sational a nature that, meagre as it is, and coming in so
roundabout a way, I repeat it with great regret. It is
a fair sample of the tales which reach the ordinary
traveller in the Arctic ice-fields.
Day before yesterday the schooner JR. B. Handy came
into St. Lawrence Bay, having on board the master of the
whaler Daniel Webster, which had been wrecked this
season on the coast near Point Barrow. From him and
others Captain De Livron had learned that a wreck was
found by native Tchouktchis, a short distance west of
Cape Serdze Kamen. The vessel was water-logged, and
nearly filled with ice. In the forecastle were the bodies
of four of the crew who had perished, and a figure-head
of reindeer antlers was recognized as that of the lost
whaler Vigilant The Esquimaux at Point Barrow had
given information that this spring they had seen four
white men travelling along the northern coast of America,
in the direction of the Mackenzie River, and that they had
found some huts of snow where they had been living
during the winter. At these places they had also found
several dead bodies, and had seen sledge tracks, with the
tracks of dogs and men travelling along. Capt. De
62 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Livron added that lie had been informed that the impres-
sion prevailed that these poor stragglers were from the
Jeannette. In the absence of the information npon which
this impression is based it is impossible to form a conclu-
sive opinion in the matter, bnt it would seem almost in-
credible that members of the Jeannette expedition would
be travelling toward the Mackenzie Elver instead of to-
ward Behring Strait, where they would be sure to find
friendly Esquimaux, and meet the whaling fleet as soon
as the season opened ; while in the other direction they
were going into the country of notoriously warlike and
vicious natives, and under the most favorable circumstan-
ces would encounter untold of hardships in an over-
land journey to where they could obtain relief, with the
chances very great against their reaching any settlement
whatever. It would appear much more probable that this
party was composed of sailors from one or the other of
the missing whalers, who might be ignorant of the route
they were travelling over. Captain Berry will make
every effort possible to investigate this affair, and I
trust that I will yet be able to send some authentic infor-
mation before the summer is ended.
Captain De Livron and the subordinate officers of his
vessel have been unremitting in their attention to us, and
have offered assistance in any possible way, even to the
extent of towing the Rodger s to Cape Serdze Kamen, for
the purpose of saving the consumption of our coal;
so if the sea be smooth to-morrow when we sail we will
be attached to the Strelock by an eight-inch hawser,
otherwise that vessel will bear us company on the
journey.
The Krauss brothers, the two German scientists who
came to Siberia this summer for the purpose of making
IN ST. LAWRENCE BAY.
G3
observations in the natural history of this coast, are living
in a tent on the northern shore of St. Lawrence Bay, and
will go upon the StrelocTc to-morrow as far as East Cape,
where they will await the return of the StrelocTc from the
Arctic Ocean, and go with her to Plover Bay, where they
will be left to spend the winter months in the pursuit of
their studies.
The passage of the Rodger s from St. Michael's to
Plover Bay was made in rain and fog, and against head
/-«
te^ : ' _j$i
C&zr
TCHOUKTCHI YOUTH.
winds ; but on the afternoon of the 14th instant the look-
out on the top-gallant forecastle heard breakers on the
port bow, and the ship was immediately put about. Just
then the fog lifted, and showed the bold, rocky coast of
Siberia near Cape Tchaplin. Shortly afterward Dominick,
the colored steward, came on deck, and seeing the vessel
headed away from the precipitous cliffs that were so close
to the stern, was somewhat confused, and expressed his
surprise in the inquiry : " Tell me how we came through
64 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
that place, Mr. Waring?" But Mr. Waring couldn't
tell. Though but about forty-five miles from Plover Bay
we did not reach it until the afternoon of the 16th, owing
to fogs and head- winds. We found the chart very inac-
curate, and the soundings particularly erroneous, proba-
bly indicating a very uneven bottom. We had hopes to
find here a native Tchouktchi known as " John Cornelius"
who was represented as a thorough pilot for Behring
Strait, a good dog-driver and interpreter, who speaks
English remarkably well. He had already gone to the
Arctic Ocean with Captain Owen.
While in Plover Bay I had the pleasure of seeing the
Tchoucktchis for the first time, and noticed a striking
dissimilarity between them and the American Esquimaux.
They are of lighter complexion and much fatter than the
Esquimaux, and speak the most astonishing lingo I ever
heard. The Pay Yeoman of the Rodger s had wintered
at this place, and knew these people very well. I asked
him to inquire if there were any reindeer in the vicinity,
and he immediately addressed a native with extraordi-
nary gesticulation as follows : ' ' Reindeer here, man-come"
to which came the reply, " No, tah pah ; " and I was told
by the interpreter that it meant the reindeer were a long
way off. This is a fair specimen of the jargon used as
means of communicating with the white visitors. I found
that some of them knew a little of the Esquimaux lan-
guage, but not sufficient to aid me in understanding them
with facility.
To-morrow morning at six o'clock we expect to get
away to the Arctic Ocean, to investigate the sensational
rumors heard here.
CHAPTER VI.
WKANGEL ISLAND.
On Board U. S. S. Bodgers, Wrangel Island,
Sept. 2nd, 1881.
It is a great pleasure to be able to date a letter from
this mysterious and heretofore unknown land. We
dropped anchor within half a mile of the shore at 10
o'clock on the night of August 25th, after having landed
on Herald Island the previous day. Three separate ex-
peditions have examined the coast line and interior of
this island for indications of the previous visit of the
Jeannette, and many specimens of the flora and fauna
have been collected. Magnetic observations have been
continued throughout the sixteen days of our stay, and
the coast line and harbor accurately surveyed. Observa-
tions have been made of the winds, currents, and tides,
and the movements of the ice carefully noted, and so
much of our work has been successfully accomplished.
Were Wrangel Island a continent, as many have sup-
posed, and our object a survey of the country, or a north-
ern sledge journey, we could not desire a better base of
operations. We are, fortunately, ensconced in a secure
harbor, the only one on the island ; but the knowledge of
its existence may prove a great blessing to some whaler
that has been caught in the pack and carried toward
these forbidding shores.
No traces of the Jeannette were found, though the en-
67
es ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
tire coast has been skirted by our boats, and no evidence
of former inhabitants or previous visits of human beings
were found anywhere, except the record left by Captain
Hooper about two weeks before. The only animals exist-
ing upon the island are a few foxes and field mice, if we
except the occasional visits of Polar bears, three of which
were killed by our people during our sojourn here. No
indications that reindeer or musk-oxen have ever been
upon the island were found, and the probability is that
they never were here. We have, therefore, failed to con-
firm the statement of Captain Dallman, who claims to
have landed upon Wrangel Land where he found vegeta-
tion plentiful, and saw the tracks of reindeer and musk-
oxen. The probability is that he landed somewhere else,
or mistook the footprints of wild fowl and Polar bear for
the tracks of the animals he named. When we parted
with the StrelocTc in St. Lawrence Bay we had expected
to meet again at Cape Serdze Kamen, and to transfer our
latest mail to the care of Captain De Livron, but we failed
to see his vessel again, except for a while the following
morning, near Cape East, where it had gone for the pur-
pose of landing the Drs. Krauss with their boat and boat-
men. Our stay in St. Lawrence Bay had been but a short
one, reaching anchorage on the morning of the 18th of
August, and sailing the evening of the 19th. It had been
very foggy all day during the 19th, lifting occasionally
but settling again, and very unpropitious for departure.
Everything was ready on board the Rodger s to move out
at short notice, and the fires were banked all day long.
The Drs. Krauss came over and spent the evening with us
until half -past 8 o'clock, when Captain De Livron sent
word that if the weather continued as at present, the fog
then lifting, he would be ready to sail in an hour and a
WRANGEL ISLAND.. 69
half. In less than an hour the Rodgers was under way,
and steamed out of the harbor into the billowy sea of
Behring's Strait. An hour later the StrelocJc got under
way and soon overtook and passed us, going under half
steam about eight knots an hour, while we were under
full steam and making little over four knots.
The 20th was very stormy and blowing very hard from
the northwest, so that we could scarely make any head-
way against it. We could see the Strelock working in
shore, but finally lost sight of her while beating to
windward, and saw her no more. The following morning
was clear and pleasant when we passed the Arctic Circle,
and soon came in sight of Cape Serdze Kamen ; which we
could readily recognize from the picture in Captain Hoop-
er 1 s report of his cruise in the Corwin during the summer
of 1880. In the early morning, while near the land, a
skin boat filled with Tchouktchis came along-side for the
purpose of trading. They had nothing that we wanted,
and could give us no valuable information, because we
had no interpreter except two Tchouktchi dog drivers
whom we brought with us from St. Lawrence Bay, and
though they could talk fluently enough with the stran-
gers, we could not understand them. Presently we
picked up another boat-load of natives, among whom
was one who could talk sufficiently to impart vague
information concerning sleds and dogs and two white
men on the shore not far away, and a steamer that had
been there, but now was " powk," which means " gone,"
but not indicating whether steaming away or destroyed.
This, of course, demanded investigation, and they took
us to a place which seemed to be Koliutchin Island and
bay, where there is a large Tchouktchi settlement. Lieu-
tenant Waring, Ensign Hunt, Doctor Jones, and your
70
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
correspondent went ashore and found a large number
of dogs which were pointed out and said to belong to
" steamer with two masts." Finally, they brought out
a piece of board on which were carved the names of Lieu-
tenants Herring and Keynolds, and Coxswain Gissler, of
TCHOUKTCHI WOMAN SEWING.
the Corwin ; and then it was clear enough that that ves-
sel had been there earlier in the season and landed her
dogs, so as no£ to be inconvenienced by having them on
her deck while cruising during the summer, but holding
them where they could be reached without much trouble
should it be decided to spend the winter in the Arctic
Ocean.
WR ANGEL ISLAND, 71
The beach was a difficult one to land upon, owing to
heavy surf, but there seemed to be a fair harbor between
the island and the mainland, should we be compelled to
winter upon that coast ; and the discovery of this fact was
considered a sufficient recompense for the delay caused
by the necessity of following up information so vague and
so incomprehensible as is that which can be gained from
these people without an interpreter. Dr. Jones gathered
some specimens of the flora near the beach, and we had an
opportunity for the first time to see the Tchouktchis in
their native abodes.
The village consisted of seven large circular dome-like
tents of about twenty feet in diameter, made of seal skins
sewed together and supported by an intricate arrange-
ment of poles of drift-wood. On the side opposite the
entrance were arranged three or four sleeping apartments,
shut off from the main tent and each other by curtains of
reindeer skins. These were the separate tenements of as
many families, the savage semblance of flats and an apart-
ment house. The skin drapery of several of these rooms
was raised, and upon the beds, which were also of rein-
deer skins and covered the entire floor of each, sat women
engaged in household duties, or attending to the wants of
a colony of dirty half-nude children. The savage odor of
dirt and blubber seemed to bear me back to Hudson Bay
and the tents of the Esquimaux ; but I found no similarity
in the dialect, so that I was unable to converse with these
people except in the unsatisfactory medium of sign lan-
guage and the few English words they had acquired by
association with the whalers. Almost the entire popula-
lation of the village followed us to the boat, and the ma-
jority attempted to get into the boat with us, so that our
efforts to be rid of them may have appeared rude, while
72 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
necessary, as we intended to sail away without delay.
Our guests were appeased with a few gifts, and dropped
astern as we headed our course toward Herald Island.
I noticed that the custom of tattooing prevailed among
the Tchoukchi women as with the Esquimaux ; with the
difference that with these people the girls were tattooed,
while among the Esquimaux this mark was an indication
that the young wife had reached that age when she must
depart from the parental roof and join her husband's fort-
unes. Another distinction was apparent in the diversity
of pattern ; the style of adornment for the cheeks seeming
a matter of individual taste. The decoration of the chin
was, however, in every instance I noticed, identical with
that of the Esquimaux females of every tribe.
To one accustomed to the accurate surveys of southern
coasts, the irreconcilability of Arctic shores to the chart
lines is somewhat bewildering, and a discrepancy of from
forty to sixty miles in the location of Koliutchin Island
by the various charts made it rather doubtful that we had
reached that point. Knowing the name to be the native
one for the position, I appealed to our guide and asked
him if it was Koliutchin Island. At first he seemed to be
in doubt, but, after consultation with his friends ashore,
he came to me and pointing at the island pronounced the
name. I was then satisfied that he was correct, but his
mere assent to my question, I felt, amounted to nothing ;
he would undoubtedly have said " yes" had I asked him
if it were Staten Island. His volunteered information
was much more satisfactory ; but, like all these good-
natured savages, he seemed willing to agree to anything
suggested to him. We had a fair wind that night and
next day. Sounding with the deep-sea lead was contin-
ued at intervals of an hour, finding the depths of water to
WR ANGEL ISLAND. 73
correspond generally with those given on the charts.
Drift-wood was seen occasionally, moving usually with
the current in a northerly and westerly direction.
On the 22d the commanding officers and crew were as-
signed to each boat, and all preparations made so that in
case of necessity for abandoning the ship it could be ef-
fected with as little delay and confusion as possible. It was
very foggy all next day until about seven o'clock, when we
were called on deck to get our first view of Wrangel Land ;
but when we saw it, it looked so much like a fog bank that
considerable discussion was provoked as to whether it was
the much-desired land or not, but such it proved, and a
rapid falling of the temperature of the water, a difference
of seven degrees being recorded within three hours, indi-
cated the vicinity of ice. A little later it was visible from
the masthead to the northward and westward, and soon
after could be seen from the deck. The wind was direct-
ly from the ice and damp, so that it felt very cold to those
from the temperate latitudes, though the thermometer
registered 37° F. Still later what appeared, through the
many telescopes directed toward it, to be a dismantled
vessel, housed over and covered with snow, was seen, and
the steamer was headed toward it, to investigate it.
Shortly after entering the ice we could see this object
more distinctly, and found it to be merely a large cake of
ice covered with mud, but the illusion was well preserved
until quite near it. All the ice we encountered was ap-
parently old and rotten, though it had evidently been
very heavy. Our vessel was then put upon her course,
but being still in the ice, and darkness having settled upon
the sea, we lay-to, in order to avoid as much as possible
coming in contact with the many heavy masses. Even
in spite of such precautions we received several hearty
74
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
thumps that shook the heavy timbers of the Rodger s, but
did her no injury.
Early the next morning the weather was clear and cold,
with Herald Island and Wrangel Island both in plain
view. At noon we reached Herald Island, and found it
clear of ice, and attempted to pass to the westward of it.
We found, however, the sea breaking over a dangerous
reef that extended about two miles from the island in a
southwesterly direction by compass. We therefore lay-to
IIEKALD ISLAND.
about three miles south of the western extremity of the
island, and sent a whale-boat ashore to search for any
evidence of the Jeannette, and to leave a record of our
visit. There was a heavy sea running at the time, but the
landing was effected near the western end, where a small
extent of beach was partially protected by the reef, over
which the sea was breaking furiously. The boat was in
charge of Acting-Lieutenant Waring, and was accom-
WRANGEL ISLAND, 75
panied by Ensigns Hunt and Stoney, Surgeons Jones and
Castillo, and your correspondent. A large plank was
erected near the summit of the western ridge, inscribed
with the name of the vessel and the date. While this
duty was being performed some of the party scaled the
ridge and walked along to the centre and highest point of
the island, while others were shooting specimens of water-
fowl or gathering mosses and flowers for classification by
the scientists. The island was found to be a narrow ridge
between ^ve and six miles long, and not over a quarter of
a mile wide at the base. The crest of the western half of
the island was so narrow that one could straddle it, while
the eastern portion was lower and more rounded at the
top. The portion visited by our party was composed of a
slaty shale, with occasional croppings of granite in the
hill sides. The ascent was precipitous and very difficult,
owing to the nature of the soil, and could only be effected
by crawling on hands and knees and catching hold of
projections of the shale, which were loose, and threatened
an avalanche that would carry the venturesome climber to
the bottom at any moment. The island is not more than
about six hundred feet high at the highest point, but
from it, the atmosphere being perfectly clear, we could
see a long distance. Wrangel Island was in plain view,
but no land could be seen to the northward of it as far
as the eye could reach.
Difficult and dangerous as was the ascent, still more
critical was the descent, until when near the bottom, where
the small, loose particles of shale were piled up a great
height. Down this some of the party came with a run
which carried them far out upon the beach before the
gathered momentum was exhausted, while others de-
scended more safely but not more gracefully by sitting
76 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
down and sliding to the bottom with a velocity not to be
exceeded by the runners. Upon the beach was found
large quantities of drift-wood, and a brisk fire was started
there by some of the crew. Over the breakers hovered a
large flock of gulls, some of which were secured, together
with a few ducks, dorekies, and snipe. After completing
our task we returned to our boat, which had been hauled
up on the shore, and as the wind had turned and rolled
the surf on the beach we had no difficulty in launch-
ing the boat, which was half filled with water in the
effort ; the sea was very rough by this time, and nearly
every wave poured a portion of its water into our little
craft, which was only kept afloat by constant bailing.
Our ship steamed toward us, and picked up the thor-
oughly drenched party about a mile and a half from the
shore, much to their gratification. We found it would be
almost impossible to land on the eastern end of the island
at this time, and the vessel steamed along the coast, keep-
ing a sharp lookout for cairns. None were to be seen
with the glasses, although we subsequently learned, from
a record left on Wrangel Island by the Corwin, that a
party from that vessel had landed and deposited a record
there previous to our visit.
After passing the eastern end of the island the Rodger s
was headed toward Cape Hawaii on Wrangel Island, and
at ten o'clock the next morning that point was in plain
view, with ice packed along the eastern shore and extend-
ing to the northward as far as we could see. We kept on
to the south and west, and headed up to the ice pack,
which we entered at half -past four o'clock, and steamed
slowly toward the land, which was distant about twelve
miles. As we drew closer and closer to the land the excite-
ment on board the Rodgers increased, and when open
WBANGEL ISLAND.
77
leads were found, as at several times was the case, long
stretches of clear water were encountered, and we moved
forward at full speed, the keenest pleasure was manifest
in every member of the expedition. Several times, how-
ever, the mighty strength of our vessel was felt to be of
advantage, as we had to force our way through heavy
loose ice that frequently cut us off from the open water.
Near the land the water was clear of pack ice, with noth-
ing but large loose cakes which could easily be avoided,
I'LACINU RECORDS ON 11EKALD ISLAND.
and at ten o'clock we dropped anchor in seven fathoms of
water within between a half and three quarters of a mile of
the shore. Two boats were lowered at once, and several of
the officers landed on a low gravelly beach and gave
three hearty cheers, which were responded to by those on
board. Two sky-rockets were sent aloft, and when the
78 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
party returned one of the officers opened his heart and
cut a Christmas cake in honor of the event.
When about to send up the sky-rockets Lieutenant
Waring called for " Liverpool" and "Cockney," our two
Tchouktchi assistants, and asked them if they knew what
they were.
" Yes, mesabe," was the reply, and the match was ap-
plied as they stood by and closely watched the effect.
They were very much amused when they saw the prelimi-
nary fizzing of the fuse ; but when the rush and whirring
of fire shot out toward the deck, and the little harmless
missile went roaring into the firmament in a streak of
flame, their terror and amazement were most amusing to
behold. With one impulse they grabbed their hair, as if
to hold it on their heads, and made a most surprising
backward leap, then stood panting and breathless, gazing
at the many-colored stars that dropped leisurely down-
ward after the rocket exploded in the heavens. It was
quite evident that they knew nothing of " Fourth of
July."
At half past six o'clock the following morning a boat
was sent in to examine a lagoon or bay which had been
reported by the landing party as existing between the
shore where they had stood and a higher coast line be-
yond ; and a fine harbor was thus discovered behind a long,
low sand spit, with water enough to allow a vessel as large
and heavily loaded as the Rodger s to swing with the tide
and ride safely, with firm holding bottom. Upon the re-
turn of the boat we steamed into our harbor, and at once
commenced preparations for exploring the land for traces
of the Jeannette or the missing whalers.
Three parties were organized, one under Captain Berry,
to proceed overland to the northern coast, or some moun-
WRANOEL ISLAND. 79
tain from which a general view of the land and water
might be obtained ; another, nnder Acting-Lientenant
Waring, to skirt the eastern coast in a whale-boat ; while
Ensign Hunt was sent to the westward to examine the
coast in that direction. The last parties were provided
with fifteen days' provisions, and instructed to encircle
the island if possible ; for we felt pretty certain of its
insular character since making our observations from
Herald Island.
Their instructions included general orders concerning
a close look out for cairns, and observations of currents
and tides, as well as the collection of all scientific data
possible. Captain Berry's party included Dr. Jones, the
chief surgeon, and four men. These were Frank Melms,
who had considerable experience in Arctic land journeys,
having been a member of Lieutenant Schwatka' s expedi-
tion to King William's Land in 1878, '79, '80 ; Oluff Peter-
sen and Thomas Loudon, both old man-of-war' s men, trans-
ferred from the Pensacola three days before we left San
Francisco. Dominick, the colored steward, also went
along, under the impression that he was going to the
North Pole, and inspired with a laudable idea of discover-
ing what kind of a pole it is that he has heard so much
about. The vessel was left in charge of Master Charles
F. Putnam, who was also intrusted with the magnetic ob-
servations, assisted by Ensign George M. Stoney, to whom
was assigned the task of surveying the harbor and adja-
cent coast lines. These officers were especially fitted for
their duties by similar work performed by them while
connected with the United States Coast Survey, which
they merely quitted to join this expedition.
The whole of Friday and the following day, until half
past three o'clock, were consumed in fitting out the expe-
80 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ditions, and all was bustle and excitement on board the
Rodger s. Three cheers were given by those remaining
on board as each boat left the ship's side and started
npon their separate routes, to experience unknown hard-
ships and perils in their several undertakings.
After the expeditions departed there were mustered
nineteen souls on board, including the two Tchouktchis
and a Kamtchadal from Petropaulovski, who has become
quite attached to the service, and wants to go to the
United States when the Rodger s returns home. The next
day was Sunday, the 28th of August, and one of the
most delightful days ever experienced in this land of
storms. The sun shone brightly, and no wind disturbed
the surface of the water. Advantage was taken of the
weather to erect a tent on the adjacent beach for an ob-
servatory, and the magnetic dip was ascertained by Put-
nam, while Stoney established a base line of three miles
for his survey of the coast. This is not all that was
accomplished, for in the mean time the latitude and lon-
gitude of the harbor were determined, a photograph was
made of the ship in her present position, and Hodgson,
the Pay Yeoman, went up the ice pack in a three-holed
skin canoe, assisted by " Liverpool" and "Cockney,"
and killed ten walruses. He started to tow four of them
to the ship, but they proved too heavy, and one after
another was dropped, until only one remained. In the
mean time a thick fog settled upon the water, and, fear
ing the walrus hunters might get lost, Mr. Tracey, the
carpenter, was sent out with a crew in the dingey to
look for them, while the fog-horn was kept sounding
at intervals of five minutes until half -past ten o'clock,
when they all returned, the walrus in tow making a heavy
pull for them. A line was made fast to the animal's
WRANGEL ISLAND, 81
head, and it taxed the muscle of every one on board, offi-
cers and men, to hoist it over the bulwarks, even with the
assistance of ropes and pulleys. It was a medium-sized
cow- walrus, and weighed about twelve hundred pounds.
It was a valuable acquisition as dog food, and ' ' Liver-
pool" and " Cockney" skinned and cut it up with evi-
dent delight, occasionally regaling themselves with choice
morsels of what to them was the daintiest of food, the
raw and bloody meat. The civilized diet of the forecastle
had begun to lose its attraction, and their stomachs
craved the gorging of meat which this walrus made possi-
ble, and their spirits were as cheerful with the prospect
as their bodies were bloody with the work. The next day
two more walruses were killed and brought aboard, and
we had a supply of meat for our fifty dogs to last for
some time. Our fine weather was about exhausted by
this time, and the third day after the excursionists left a
storm set in from the north, and we had an opportunity
of noting its effect upon the ice. The pack which had
been to the eastward off Cape Hawaii was seen to be in
motion, and though the wind was blowing off shore, in a
few hours the open water that had confronted us was filled
with a seething mass of loose ice, huge hummocks rubbing
and grinding together with an ominous sound. The sea
beat heavily on the outside of the sand spit, behind which
we were securely sheltered, and we had reason for con-
gratulation that so much of our work had been done in
the bright days after entering harbor.
During our entire stay, which lasted for nineteen days,
we had no other such opportunity. It was surprising to
see the ice moving constantly to the westward along the
shore, when the natural supposition would be that the
wind would blow it off. Sometimes when we went to bed
6
82 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
we would see pack ice filling the sea as far as the eye
could reach, and the next morning when we went on deck
would behold a vast expanse of open water, with merely
here and there a cake of large ice floating on the surface ;
and quite as often did we find the solid pack on awaken-
ing where the night before scarcely any was to be seen.
These rapid changes are most confusing to the mariner,
and have given rise to the theory often mentioned by the
whalers who frequent these waters, that the ice sinks and
rises in obedience to as yet some unknown law of nature.
As the result of their observations the officers remain-
ing with the ship found the magnetic dip to be 79° 15', and
the variation 19° 49'. The directive force of the magnet
was found to be very weak and at times erratic.
CHAPTER VII.
ROUND THE ISLAND.
On Board IT. S. S. Bodgers, Wrangel Island,
Sept. 12th, 1881.
Very little could be done in the matter of observations
for the next few days, but in the meantime we had the
excitement of a bear chase to relieve the monotony.
About six o'clock on Saturday, the 3d of September, we
were about to sit down to dinner when two white objects
were seen on the main-land near the shore, which the
glass showed to be a she-bear and her cub. In a short
time the dingey was lowered, and two of the officers
jumped in, armed with rifles, and were rowed ashore
against a strong gale, so that in the interval the bears had
gained the advantage of forcing a stern chase upon the
hunters. When the boat struck the beach all jumped
ashore and started in pursuit, headed by Mr. Tracey, the
carpenter, who, though drenched to the skin in effecting a
landing, abated not his energy in the chase. After going
several miles with little prospect of coming up with the
game, all returned to the ship except the carpenter, who
pointed ahead and shouting " Excelsior !" kept up the
pursuit. Success attended his efforts, as he deserved, and
he returned at ten o'clock at night after travelling about
ten miles and killing both bears.
At eleven o' clock the same night a voice from the sand-
spit hailed the ship, and was recognized through the howl-
83
84 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ing of the gale as that of Captain Berry, who had just re-
turned from his inland journey. He was accompanied by
one of the men, and said the rest of the party were follow-
ing more slowly, their feet having suffered from the rough
ground over which the journey had to be made, and ren-
dered them unable to keep up. He had come on ahead to
send a boat to the head of the bay in which the harbor was
situated, and thus save them about four miles of hard
walking. The boat started immediately in charge of
Hodgson, the pay yeoman, who is an old sailor and well
versed in the management of boats in the Arctic waters.
In spite of their efforts it was found impossible to make
much headway against the sea and wind, and they pulled
to the beach about a mile from the vessel and started to
find the wayfarers, who needed their assistance so much.
The search was all the more difficult as a severe snow-
storm united with the gale to baffle them ; but they re-
turned at three o'clock in the morning with Dominick and
Petersen, whom they had found asleep on the main-land
about five miles from the ship. It was a wild night and
well for the worn-out travellers that they were found so
soon, or the storm would probably have caused them
much suffering before morning. Dominick, the colored
steward, was quite exhausted when brought on board,
and in answer to where he had been found said, in a
dazed way, that he and his companion had lost the sea-
coast and lay down in the " woods" to sleep. The boat
party had seen nothing of Dr. Jones, and much anxiety
was felt for him on board ; the boat was therefore sent
immediately back, and Mr. Stoney took charge of her.
After much hard work he succeeded in reaching the head
of the bay, where he landed and searched the shores of
the main-land for several miles in each direction, though
ROUND THE ISLAND, 85
without success. About ten o'clock in the morning a
voice was heard from the shore of the main-land, and
another boat was lowered at once to go to the relief of
the wanderers. The surgeon was found, and said he had
not suffered materially from the storm, as Frank Melms
had stayed by him and arranged a shelter when he found
he could not reach the vessel that night. He said he had
profited much by the kind attention of Melms, who was
not in the least exhausted, and could easily have reached
the ship the night before, but would not leave him while
he was able to benefit him by his previous Arctic experi-
ence. Morrison and Cahill, two of the machinists, were
immediately sent up the beach to recall Stoney's party,
who got back to the ship about two o'clock in the after-
noon, after a laborious night' s work, hungry and tired.
Captain Berry had reached a point near the northwest-
ern coast, where, from a mountain 2,500 feet high by
barometric measurement, he was enabled to see open
water entirely around the island, except between west
and south-southwest, where his view was obstructed by a
high range of mountains, which, however, appeared to
terminate the land in that direction. He then imagined
that Waring had passed the northern side, as the distance
was comparatively short and he had started with a fine
breeze aiding him, and was now on his way back to the
ship by way of the western coast. Not wishing to delay
the vessel, as he felt he might do if he delayed his return
for further profitless research, he started on his homeward
trip at once. The interior was found to be entirely devoid
of animal life, and of other plants than those growing
near the coast. Two ridges of mountains followed the
trend of the northern and southern shores, between which
a rolling country existed traversed by small streams evi-
86 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
dently fed by the melting snow from the mountains.
Minerals and specimens of the flora were gathered, and to
this interesting collection was added a fine mammoth
tusk, found the first day's march from the ship. A num-
ber of other mammoth tusks were found in various stages
of preservation by various members of the expedition and
those remaining at the harbor. As the Captain and Lou-
don approached the head of the bay on the night of his
return, Loudon saw a bear close by over the crest of a
hillock, and, dropping his bundle, poured volley after
volley into the carcasses of the animals the carpenter had
killed but a short time previously, before discovering that
they were already dead. The Captain checked him in his
career before he had quite ruined the skins so highly
prized by the owner.
Acting Lieutenant H. S. Waring was accompanied on
his expedition by Doctor J. D. Castillo, and his crew con-
sisted of Fr. Bruch, coxswain ; Frank Berk, Wm. Grace,
Julius Huebner, and Owen McCarthy. Of these, Huebner
had considerable experience in boating in the ice of the
Arctic seas upon several whaling voyages, and his knowl-
edge thus acquired proved useful to the commander of
the expedition. Amid the cheers of those remaining,
Waring started off toward the east full of hope, and with
a breeze that sent him swiftly along under reefed main-
sail. That night he reached Cape Hawaii, when the wind
died out, and he encamped on the shore ; where all enjoyed
a good night's rest, and the novelty of the experience of
tenting on Wrangel Land with the thermometer at 25°
Fahr. After rounding the cape on the following morning
he pulled to a small island near the mouth of a creek,
where were the skeletons of a whale and a walrus. His
attention was attracted by some pieces of wood sticking
BOUND THE ISLAND. 87
up in the sand, evidently by intention, and he then noticed
footprints leading up to the cliff near by. Following
them he came upon a flagstaff, from which dropped what
appeared to be a United States flag, and attached to the
staff was a bottle containing a copy of the New York Her-
ald of March 22d, 1881, and documents of which the fol-
lowing are copies :
Copy.
U. S. Revenue Marese,
U. S. Steamer Corwin,
Wrangel Land, August 12th, 1881.
The United States steamer Corwin, Captain C. L. Cooper com-
manding, visited this land in search of tidings from the United
States Exploring steamer Jeannette. A cask of provisions will be
found on the second cliff to the northward. All well on board.
(No signature).
U. S. Revenue Marine,
Revenue Cutter Corwin,
August 12th f 1881.
Landed here this date having previously landed at Herald
Island. A " cairn," with information inclosed, may be found on
the northeast summit of the island.
The finder is requested to send the contents of this bottle to the
New York Herald. J. C.
He left copies there in place of the originals, which
were brought away and have been transmitted to the Sec-
retary of the Navy with Captain Berry's report. At three
o'clock that afternoon he rounded a point marked by a
perpendicular column of rock about fifty yards from the
point and about one hundred feet high. Here heavy pack
ice was encountered, extending as far to the eastward as
88 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
lie could see. Near the shore it was somewhat broken
and permitted his advance through a narrow channel,
where only short paddles could be used. At a quarter
past six o'clock the ice drew so close that he was com-
pelled to haul up on the beach when an opportunity
afforded, and encamped for the night. The next day the
ice still held him, and, accompanied by Dr. Castillo, he
walked to the top of a hill toward the north of his camp,
and, after a most tedious and trying struggle, reached the
summit, from which his eyes were rewarded by observing
the trend of the coast toward the west. This he found to
be the extreme northeast cape, and no land could be seen
to the northward. Toward the west the land was low near
the water and ran out in long, low points, forming deep
bays which held the ice packed in dense masses to the
shore. The following morning the weather was clear and
Herald Island appeared in plain view from the beach,
bearing northeast by east (magnetic). By nine o'clock
the ice opened sufficiently to allow him to move slowly by
the aid of paddles, and after six hours' hard work he suc-
ceeded in rounding the cape and making about five miles
to the westward. At five o' clock another effort was made
to proceed, but, after laboring an hour and a half and nar-
rowly escaping being crashed by two large masses by
backing out from between them just as they came to-
gether with a force that no boat could have withstood, a
narrow lead let them in to the beach. Within five min-
utes after they landed not a vestige could be seen of the
opening by which they had so narrowly escaped. Noth-
ing but a grinding and crunching sea of ice met the view.
The day closed with a thick fog and a light wind from the
northward, which had brought the pack down upon the
shore. The next day opened thick, with a strong north-
ROUND THE ISLAND. 89
erly wind and flurries of snow. The ice continued densely-
packed against the shore, giving a dubious chance of mov-
ing unless the wind changed. A reconnoisance was made
along the beach to the northward and westward, and
found the condition of the ice the same as at the camp.
September 1st was a gloomy day, and no movement of the
ice occurred to indicate their liberation. The ice seemed
to be a fixture ; the necessity of abandoning the boat and
making their way back across the land the only prospect.
A not very cheerful one it must be admitted. Waring
now determined to wait another day, with the hope of a
favorable change, and early in the morning sent a party
to the extremity of the point to the westward, a distance
of about fifteen miles, from where they could see the land
trending to the south and west. The next day was spent
in preparing to abandon the boat, which was conse-
quently hauled up on the beach above high-water mark,
turned bottom side up, and everything made snug about
her, with true sailorly instinct and many deep regrets for
the misfortune that left this the only course to pursue.
The boat mast was erected on a neighboring hill, and a
record deposited indicating the route taken by the retreat-
ing crew. A dismal snow-storm was falling when, at five
o'clock on the morning of the 3rd instant, they started
upon their journey. It was intensely cold and the wind
blowing in squalls, while the ice was jammed as far as
they could see. Their course was directed toward the
eastern coast, where they could find shelter behind the
hills and drift wood from which to make a fire and cook
some food on reaching camp at night. The travelling with
heavy loads upon their backs was intensely disagreeable,
while to add to their discomfort the snow changed to rain,
which drenched their clothes and increased the weight of
90 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
their burdens. Lieutenant Waring feared to allow the
men to sleep in their wet clothing, and forced the march,
only resting for a few hours when the night became too
dark to see their way. The route lay over a series of hills
that were very fatiguing to men unaccustomed to land
journeys, but the prospect of reaching the ship the fol-
lowing day kept them up. As soon as it was sufficiently
light to see they started again, with sore and stiffened
limbs and feet torn by the sharp stones that covered the
ground. At seven A. M. they reached the beach, where a
rousing fire was started and a hot breakfast prepared,
which put new life into the weary travellers ; and through
the snow and rain they plodded until reaching the head
of the bay, where they were overjoyed to find a boat,
which had gone there to bring in the skins of Mr. Tracey's
bears from the adjacent coast, and about four miles of
walking, which to many had now become most painful,
was saved them. An hour later we welcomed them aboard
the ship, and they soon forgot their pains while enjoying
a hot dinner in comfortable quarters and in relating their
adventures to interested auditors.
Almost at the same time that Waring started toward
the east with a fair wind Ensign H. J. Hunt pulled away
upon his course to the westward. He was accompanied by
Passed Assistant Engineer A. Y. Zane, and his crew con-
sisted of Arthur Lloyd, coxswain ; Jacob Johansen, Frank
McShane, Joseph Quirk, and Edward O'Leary. It was
hard pulling against the wind that sped his brother offi-
cer upon his course, and at nine o'clock, when he en-
camped for the night, he was not more than about nine
miles from the harbor. The oars were brought in requisi-
tion the following day, and progress was not very rapid.
During the day they saw what looked like a cairn upon
ROUND THE ISLAND. 91
the beach, and Hunt landed to examine it. His praise-
worthy curiosity came near bringing him into trouble,
however, for he found himself, before he was aware of it,
within about six feet of a huge polar bear taking a post-
prandial siesta. As the ponderous brute raised his head
and turned toward the intruder they gazed at each other
in a dazed sort of a way for a few minutes, when our
active young ensign cut short the interview by facing
about and starting for the boat at a speed he never before
knew himself to possess, shouting loudly for his rifle. In
the meantime the bear arose in a dignified and leisurely
manner, and slowly walked toward the sea, when Hunt
sent a bullet through him that caused him to turn again
for the beach, another shot brought him to the ground,
and a third so disabled him that Johansen ran up and
gave him the coup de grace with the muzzle of his rifle at
the animal' s port ear. Hunt then had time to look over
the race-course where he had made such good time in
going for his rifle, and says that his steps were about
seven feet long at the least, and the gravel was scattered
in every direction. The monster was skinned, and the
tenderloin, liver, heart, and glands removed to the boat
to reinforce their larder. The liver they pronounced
exceedingly palatable ; it formed their chief diet for
about ten days, and, notwithstanding that it has invari-
ably been spoken of as poisonous, none of the party
have as yet experienced any but pleasurable emotions
from partaking of it.
The third day out they rounded the southwest point of
the island, and their course lay somewhat east of north.
The wind was strong, and earned away their main boom.
Plenty of ice was encountered the next day, and though
working hard they only succeeded in making about four
92 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
miles upon their course by paddling and hauling. Next
day they could only proceed by towing along shore and
cutting a way through the ice, and were finally compelled
to tie up in lee of a large piece of ice, and bail out. They
had finally, however, accomplished about four miles after
a hard day' s work. Day after day this labor was repeated
until they reached the northern point of the island, where
they encountered a succession of sand-spits running
toward the north and east beyond the main-land, with
miles of open water between, which proved to be only
shallow lagoons, where they constantly grounded, and ex-
tricated themselves with difficulty. In some instances the
spits extended between twenty and twenty-five miles from
the land, and the ice was so closely packed that at last
they could not force their way through it, and were com-
pelled to turn back, much to their chagrin. On the 5th
instant they reached the most northerly point of Wran-
gel Island, and could distinctly see the Northeast Cape
bearing to the southward and westward of their position ;
but the same heavy pack that brought Waring' s party to
grief baffled the most strenuous efforts put forth by this
energetic young officer to encompass the island. Often
while working through the ice he found himself com-
pelled to follow leads that carried him far out from the
land, and closing behind him, left no prospect of relief.
Sometimes midnight found his men still at their oars or
wading through lagoons, sounding in that way for a chan-
nel to reach the land or cross the water in the direction
of their course. The run home, when reluctantly en-
forced, was made in five days, during which he had an
opportunity to verify and correct, when necessary, the
establishment of his positions on the outward course.
The 10th of September, the day assigned for reporting
ROUND THE ISLAND. 93
back, had passed, and the day of grace was drawing to a
close, when a little whale-boat was seen beating in from
the sonth and west, and we soon were cheering the re-
turned explorers as they drew alongside. The resnlt of
their labor was perfectly satisfactory, as they had reached
positions within easy view of each other's furthest points ;
and though no traces were found that we could identify as
of the Jeannette or the lost whalers, an accurate survey
had been made of this land, and its character ascertained.
The necessary scientific data had been collected, and a
harbor found for the benefit of ice-belayed mariners that
may prove of inestimable value to them.
Though no large game was found upon the island, we
found plenty of water fowl, which found their way to our
board, among them the most delicious plover to be met
with anywhere. They were so handy, too, that we kept
them perfectly fresh all the time by only shooting them
as needed. The assistant who recorded Mr. Putnam's
magnetic observations took his gun ashore with him, and
as some oscillations of the suspended magnet gave a rest
of five or six minutes, he employed the interval by going
out to the beach and shooting the plover for next day's
dinner. So with the ducks. They were young, tender,
and of fine flavor. JN"o game laws stay the hand of the
ambitious hunter on Wrangel Land. He can shoot to his
heart's content.
Along the sand-spit, near the Rodgers* harbor, as well
as the entire coast of Wrangel Island, is strewn with drift
wood, among which may often be found utensils of wood
made by the natives of the Siberian or American coasts,
and some are of very ancient date, as is attested by their
venerable appearance. A number of specimens were
gathered by members of the expedition as relics. Among
94 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
them can be recognized portions of vessels and articles of
civilized manufacture, but whether keeping the sad tale
of wrecks and human suffering, or merely washed from
the deck of some passing whaler, it would be difficult to
tell. Of this nature was a portion of a large spar similar
in circumference to the topsail yard of the Rodger s, which
lay upon the shore not far from our harbor. There was
no mark upon it to reveal its former ownership, and it
still lies there the silent custodian of its history.
CHAPTEE VIII.
IN THE ICE FIELDS.
On Boakd U. S. S. Rodger s,
Sept. 25t7i, 1881.
Since speaking the whaler Coral near Herald Island
on the 14th instant, we have been chiefly occupied in
cruising around the ice pack to the north-east and north-
west of Herald and Wrangel Islands. On our way north-
ward the day after leaving our mail with Captain Coon
we again passed his vessel, and saw seven other whalers
cruising within an area of about ten miles. We also
had the privilege of seeing three of the CoraVs boats pur-
sue and capture a whale, and afterward our course took
us within hailing distance of the ship, when, in response
to an inquiry if he could spare us a whale-boat to replace
the one abandoned on Wrangel Island, Captain Coon
expressed his regret that he was unable so to do, as one
of his boats had just been " stove" by the whale then
in tow. He wished us good luck in our work, and,
filling away, we were soon beyond reach of communica-
tion.
That same night we reached the ice and lay-to for day-
light. But with the sun came a thick fog and snow-
storm, during which we ran into a pocket in the ice pack,
and had an opportunity of seeing of what stuff this pack
consists. It was indeed a very different looking mass
from that which surrounded Wrangel Island, where it was
93
96 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
old, dirty, and rotten, while in the north it was in high
cakes of solid, clear ice and beantiful in its mantle of
newly fallen snow. Here were but few small pieces
through which a strong vessel might force its way. It was
not difficult to see that it did not require many of these
large fields to combine and hold a vessel powerless until
a few degrees lower temperature locked it still faster in
the pack. We then turned about and threaded our way
into the open water, which we reached toward evening,
and "hove-to" until morning.
The next day we again reached the ice about noon, and
entered a lead through which we made our way slowly
until we brought up about six o' clock against an impene-
trable mass, and Captain Berry descended from the
" crow's-nest " at the mast-head, where he always takes
his station while working through the ice. His hair and
beard were covered with frost, and the entire rigging was
enveloped in the same feathery material ; making it at once
a thing of beauty to the beholder, but a subject of misery
to the poor sailors, who had to handle these ice-clad
ropes. Scarcely a breath of wind could be felt, and a
temperature of seven degrees below the freezing point
was quite favorable under the circumstances for the for-
mation of new ice. Fortunately the sky was overcast,
and the temperature fell only one degree lower during the
night, or our chances of escape when further progress was
found to be barred would have been materially lessened.
During the night we tied up to a large piece of field ice,
about the size of City Hall Park in New York, in a po-
lynia, or open water hole, to which we had succeeded in
making our way before it got too dark to continue our
contest with the ice. By midnight, however, the open
space was entirely filled by the pressure of the ice from
IN THE ICE FIELDS. 97
the southward, and when we started at half past two the
following morning our exit was only effected by putting
the bow of the ship between two large cakes of ice and
starting the engine forward at its full power. After con-
tinuing this sort of goose step for about an hour we suc-
ceeded in forcing the cakes sufficiently apart to allow the
vessel to squeeze herself between them, and a little while
later she was fortunate enough to reach a lead that
brought her without further difficulty to the open sea.
The work of forcing the cakes apart was materially in-
creased by the new ice that had formed during the night
to about an inch in thickness and cemented the large
cakes together. During our progress through the leads
after entering the pack on the afternoon of the 17th, new
ice of but about a quarter of an inch in thickness was con-
stantly met with, and had rather a suggestive appearance,
though opposing no impediment to our advance. It only
needed a strong southerly wind during that night to have
closed the fifteen miles of ice through which we had
passed, so that our escape before the winter set in would
have been at least improbable. This would have been a
matter of serious annoyance, as it would have effectually
tied our hands against a further prosecution of the
search for the Jeannette until released, which would not
be before next summer, if released at all.
During the 18th and 19th we steamed along the south-
ern edge of the pack, and examined all openings for a
lead that would let us advance further toward the north,
but met the heavy pack ice again, extending far toward
the south in about 171° 30' west longitude. Up the west-
ern edge of this pack we steamed until we were headed
off by the solid ice, and at ten o'clock on the morning of
the 19th reached our highest latitude, 73° 44' north, which
7
98 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
is, so far as known, the highest yet attained in this sea,
though not a very great advance toward the pole.
The weather has not been sufficiently clear while in the
highest latitudes to see land if at a great distance, and so
far we have been unable to confirm the reports of land
seen to the northward of Wrangel Island. We have
steamed right over the so-called "Blevin Mountains" of
Wrangel Land, and where " extensive land with high
peaks" is marked on the charts, without impediment.
We left the northern coast of Wrangel Island, and sailed
in a northwesterly direction to 73° 28' north latitude,
and 179° 52' east longitude, and found the water deepen-
ing as we advanced. At this point we found ourselves in
a large pocket in the ice, and steamed for ten miles
through newly -formed mushy ice, which was made in
spite of a heavy sea that kept it in constant motion. On
the edges of the ice pack the ice was crunching and
grinding, and the sound emitted could be heard at a
great distance. The temperature of the air here was 23°
Fahr., and we invariably found it several degrees colder
at the bottom of these deep pockets than in the open
sea. Large numbers of walruses were seen in the water,
and sunning themselves on the edges of the larger floe
pieces.
Observations with the deep-sea lead, which have been
made hourly since we entered this sea, seem to indicate
receding from, rather than approach to, land as we go
north, as the water continually deepens as we advance,
until, at our highest point, 73° 44' north latitude, 171° 48'
west longitude, we found eighty-two fathoms. The char-
acter of the bottom was very irregular, sometimes hard,
at others black sand, and in many places blue mud, which
it was at the deepest sounding.
IN THE ICE FIELDS. 99
After cruising along the pack so far without discover-
ing any traces of sledge parties from the Jeannette, and
our further progress being cut off, we steamed toward
Herald Island to anchor there for the purpose of making
observations upon the current reported to flow in a north-
westerly direction. Just after the ship's course was
changed so as to head out of the pocket through which
we had been advancing toward the north, a large polar
bear was seen swimming toward the ship, and the bul-
warks of the vessel at once bristled with riflemen armed to
resist an attack. The carpenter, already distinguished as
having slain two polar bears in single combat, opened fire
and missed, but followed up his first bullet with two
others which struck the advancing enemy in the head,
and caused him to beat a hasty retreat. Then commenced
a running fire from the quarter deck, but though badly
wounded in four different places the bear kept on swim-
ming rapidly for the ice, when turning his devoted head
around to take another look at the ship, a bullet went
crashing into his brain, and he ceased to move. The ship
steamed closely alongside, and a rope was fastened to his
hind leg, and when hoisted on board he was weighed and
turned the beam at eleven hundred pounds.
The weather grew thicker as night approached, and a
strong wind prevailed while we held our course toward
Herald Island. During the night we passed in view of
the lights of some of the whalers, who were still holding
their position near where we had left them when going
toward the north. As the fog continued we dropped
anchor in fifteen fathoms of water at half -past two o'clock
on the afternoon of the 20th. During the following twen-
ty-four hours the observations of the current were con-
tinued, which indicate a tidal current setting toward the
100 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
northwest as the water is deepening, and toward the
southeast when shoaling, while at high and low water
there was no current perceptible. The measurements
were made at the surface, and at a depth of ten fathoms.
Toward the night of the 21st the fog cleared somewhat
and we got under way, steaming toward the southward
and westward, and early next morning found ourselves near
Captain Hooper' s cairn on Wrangel Island. The weather
gradually became clearer and we headed for the north
side of the island, where we were fortunate in finding the
ice loose enough to admit our approach close to the land,
and Mr. Waring went ashore with a boat and succeeded
in recovering the whale-boat and all the articles aban-
doned on his return to the ship, after being headed off by
the ice on his previous attempt to circumnavigate the
island. We then took our course in a northerly direction
and found considerable open water, with the ice pack
toward the west.
The reports of lands seen at a distance in these waters
should be made with great circumspection, where clouds
and fog banks are constantly appearing on the horizon
and are so very deceiving. One clear-headed seaman,
who has been cruising in these waters for many years in
command of a whaler, has grown quite sceptical concern-
ing such reports, and in a recent conversation expressed
his doubts of the existence of land north of Point Barrow,
as reported by the master of another whaling bark in the
year 1875. "It was probably a fog bank," said the vet-
eran whaler, " reported by the man in the crow's-nest."
" On the contrary," was the reply, " all hands on board
at the time saw it."
" In that case I am sure it was a fog bank, or it would
not have been seen from the deck. High land might have
IN THE ICE FIELDS. 101
been seen from the mast-head a great way off and not
from the deck."
"Did you know that there is a dangerous reef ex-
tending about two miles southwest of Herald Island % "
the same skipper was asked.
" Oh, yes," he replied ; " we all know it" (referring to
the whaling captains) ; " and there is a bad shoal recently
formed near Point Barrow, where there is only from one
to two fathoms of water, and would bring a ship up."
"Well, why don't you report such things," he was
asked, " so that they can be put on the charts \ "
"Because no notice would be taken of it if we did.
They would merely say ' that's only another old whaler's
yarn.' We all know these things, and that's enough for
us. If others want to know anything about it let them
come and find out for themselves. That's our idea of the
matter, though we are always ready to give the result of
our experience to any who desire it."
And there is a good deal of truth in what the old sailor
said.
CAMP AT EETEETLAN.
CHAPTER IX
EETEETLAN.
Camp "Hunt," Eeteetlan, N. S.,
November 15, 1881.
On the 8th of October a small party was landed from
the Rodger s on the island of Eeteetlan, about twenty-five
miles west of Cape Serdze Kamen, on the Siberian coast,
the purpose of which was to form a base of supplies for
sledge journeys during the winter and spring following,
and to serve as a haven for any survivors of the Jeannette
or missing whalers who might have reached the Siberian
coast during the preceding summer or fall. A severe
gale, that prevailed for several days previous to the
103
EETEETLAN. 103
arrival of the Rodger s at this point, had caused a surf
upon the sandy shore of the main-land that prevented the
landing of the party and stores there, but Captain Berry
decided to place them upon the island, where a good beach
and lee-shore made the landing feasible. A great many
advantages that the main-land presented had therefore to
be abandoned, such as the constant presence and assist-
ance of the Tchouktchis and a plentiful supply of fresh
water, of which the island is almost entirely devoid.
Thereby we were subjected to the crowding of our quar-
ters throughout the entire day by such visitors as came
in boats or sledges, and had no other place in which to
assemble than the little house, that was small enough
even for those for whom it was intended. During the
three days required to land the stores the carpenter had
erected a house 12 by 16 feet, with a sloping roof, from 8
to 10 feet high. The walls were double — that is, were
boarded on the inside as well as the outside, with the in-
tention of filling in with grass, but there was none on the
island, and sufiicient could not be secured on the main-
land, while there were white men to look at and furnish
the day's amusement for the lazy Tchouktchis. The roof
was single, and the cracks and joints were covered with
battens to keep out the rain, but failed to accomplish so
desirable a purpose. An old piece of canvas that was
thrown over the roof and battened down was an improve-
ment, but then it began to get cold and turf was piled on
the roof to keep out the frost. Instead of frost, however,
the weather grew milder and the rain fell almost con-
stantly, so instead of pure rain water we had mud until
the snow fell, when we were again comfortable.
The shdre party comprised Master Charles F. Putnam,
Surgeon \L D. Jones, the writer, and three sailors —
104 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Frank Melms, Oluf Petersen, and Constantine Tataren-
off — the Kamtchadal dog-driver from Petropaulovski,
whose name had been condensed into " Peter" by his
mess-mates on board the ship, and indeed few knew he
had any other name. On one side of the little room, which
constituted the house, were erected three bunks for the
men, and on the other side two beds accommodated the
commander and surgeon, while I constructed an annex
of pemmican boxes and bread cans with a roof and floor
of boards, obtained by breaking up boxes containing
canned goods. " Peter," who could not read English,
selected a nice board from a pemmican box for the
door-sill, but it needed not the legend "For Dogs
Only" to convince me that my apartment was scarcely
better than a kennel. The roof leaked, of course, but a
judicious arrangement of India rubber coats made sleep
possible. The wind whistled through the interstices
between the boxes, but chinking, and a lining of rein-
deer skins, ultimately secured the next thing to perfect
bliss. The lining of reindeer skins was not an original
idea, but borrowed from the natives, whose winter homes
are thus contrived. They are not nomadic like the Es-
quimaux, who are obliged to move from the haunts of
the reindeer to the sea shore, where they find the walrus
and the seal ; but have their homes and villages where
they dwell throughout the year. The Tchouktchis are
divided into two classes, the reindeer tribes, or "Chow-
choos," and the walrus hunters, or " Iowans." " Tchoukt-
chis," or " Chookchees," is a name they do not under-
stand or recognize, but seems to be the name given by the
Russians indiscriminately to both classes, and I presume is i
a corruption of "Chow-choo," derived from the fact that
the reindeer people who live inland were the first whom
EETEETLAN. 105
the Russians encountered when they entered the country.
The inland and shore people are in constant communication,
and exchange the reindeer skins and meat for seal and
walrus blubber and skins, thus rendering the constant
change of habitation customary with the Esquimaux un-
necessary. Their houses are large, dome-like tents of
walrus skins, in summer, and reindeer skins in winter,
sewn together, and drawn tightly over a wooden frame-
work. They vary in size from about twelve to forty feet
in diameter, and are usually about twelve feet high in the
centre. This tent is called a Yaranger or Tdrat, and
forms a shelter from the wind and rain. Within it is
erected the sleeping room or Yoronger, which is square
or oblong in shape, and made of reindeer skins sewn to-
gether, and held up by a framework of wood. This is
perfectly impervious to the wind, and entirely devoid of
ventilation. An open lamp containing seal oil with moss
for wick burns there throughout the day, and produces
a temperature reeking with foul odors, and varying from
eighty to one hundred and ten degrees, even in the coldest
weather. Within this apartment the men wear nothing
but their trousers, and the women nothing at all save a
narrow breech-cloth of seal skin, which makes them appear
as if about to engage in the ballet of the " Black Crook,"
were it not that they are usually ill-shapen, and always
filthy with dirt. It would be impossible, with decency, to
describe their habits, or explain how their very efforts
toward cleanliness make them all the more disgusting.
It requires considerable habitude or terrible experience in
the open air to find any degree of comfort in such abodes.
The Augean stables, or the stump-tail cow sheds, appear
like paradise in comparison. And yet these people are
often intelligent in appearance, and many of them possess
106 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
a quiet dignity of bearing that would become a Sena-
tor.
They are generally honest, and their vices, such as they
have, are derived from intercourse with the white race.
As is usual with savages, the women are the slaves of
their husbands, and have all the heavy and disagreeable
work to perform ; the hunting and general out-door exer-
cise being the manly portion. With all their varied duties
of a more robust character they find time to sew, and
many of them evince wonderful skill with the needle and
great taste in ornamentation. The reindeer skins, which
are the usual material of their clothing in winter and sum-
mer, are of a better quality than those of the wild rein-
deer, which furnish the clothing of the Esquimaux. The
flesh side of the skin is scraped in the usual manner, and
is afterward stained with a red clay, found near Serdze
Kamen, which gives their clothing a more pleasing ap-
pearance and preserves their cleanliness for a longer
period. The costume of the men consists of a shirt of
soft reindeer skin, that from the fawn or doe preferred,
and is worn with the fur inside. In cold weather a coat
of heavier skin is worn over this. Both are made to reach
nearly to the knee, and are the same length in front and
behind. They are made quite full and the sleeves large,
except near the wrist. This arrangement of the sleeve
allows the hand and arm to be withdrawn inside the cloth-
ing with great facility and rapidity, and there are times
when speed is felt to be a matter of great concern. Thus,
in cold weather they warm their hands and perform other
little offices of personal comfort quite common with un-
cleanly people, as well as with monkeys. A belt of seal-
skin or cloth, and as ornamental as the taste or means of
the owner will admit, is worn to keep the wind from in-
EETEETLAN. 107
trading beneath their clothing ; a precaution never used
by the Esquimaux except in the coldest weather, and then
only when the wind is blowing. Their coats are without
hoods, but are cut low and have a piece of long-haired fur
around the throat, usually of fox, wolf or dog skin. The
skirts and wrists are also trimmed with the same fur. A
close-fitting cap is worn when out of doors, tied under the
chin, and this also is trimmed with heavy fur during the
winter. I have seen many such caps with fur from six to
eight inches long surrounding the face, and when of white
wolf or dog skin it gives the wearers a peculiar and saint-
like appearance, scarcely consistent with their savage
nature. When travelling in the coldest weather a large
coat is sometimes worn over all, and this generally has
a hood attached, which also is trimmed with heavy fur
to shield the face from the wind, and to protect this
from the wet snow a thin over-coat is worn, made of
reindeer skin without the hair, and tanned as soft as
chamois. Often, and preferably, their rain-coat is of
calico or white cotton stuff, procured from the traders,
and the more brilliant the better. We had one piece of
six-penny calico, with red and yellow peacocks, whose
spread tails presented every known color and tint. It
was not stinted as to size either, for the diameter of the
tail was only limited by the width of the cloth. This was
the favorite pattern with the natives, and when one could
get a coat with two peacock tails on the back and two on
the breast his happiness was supreme.
Indeed, I found one of these coats at Mshne Kolymsk,
more than 2,000 versts from our house on Eeteetlan, and
could not fail to recognize it. It adorned the person of a
reindeer chief, and I knew he gave the Iowan from whom
he obtained it a most fabulous price. In the spring, when
108 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
they hunt the seal that sleep upon the ice, the Iowans
prefer an outside coat of white cloth, and in summer they
wear a waterproof coat made of the thin membrane from
the intestines of the seal. These are often ornamented
with little tufts of feathers, and are quite pretty as well
as useful in protecting their reindeer clothing from the
rain or surf. The trousers of the men are made to fit
tight to the leg and extend to the ankle, where there is a
drawing string to close them tightly over the stockings.
The inside trousers are of fawn skin and the outside pair
are made of skin from the leg of the reindeer, except in
the coldest weather, when sometimes the heavier skin is
worn while travelling. They are very short in the waist,
and though there is a drawing-string there also it is a con-
tinual mystery as well as a run of good luck that they
are kept up at all. In summer, and when there is open
water, they wear boots of seal skin, which vary in length
from half way up the calf of the leg to the crotch. In
winter the boots are of reindeer legs and shod with the
large seal skin until the coldest weather, when soles of
bear or reindeer skin, with the fur on, are substituted.
These boots are generally short, reaching far enough to
be held tightly by the drawing-string at the bottom of
the trousers' leg. Sometimes, however, they are long
enough to tie just below the knee. In winter also a scarf
or comforter is worn made of squirrels' tails, and requir-
ing, I should imagine, the sacrifice of about Ove or six
hundred animals for each comforter. The dress is, how-
ever, picturesque and comfortable, and much more agree-
able to wear and to look at than that of the Esquimaux.
The dress of the women is very different from that of
the men. The coat and trousers are in one piece. The
trousers are very wide and the sleeves almost as wide, while
EETEETLAK 109
at the same time long enough to reach beyond the hand
and greatly interfere with perfect freedom in the use of
the hands. Consequently, whenever at work anywhere
else than at home they drop the dress from off the
shoulders and arms, and thus gain the desired freedom
for the hands. In cold weather, when travelling, they
wear an outside coat with a hood, a very cumbersome
and ungainly but comfortable article of dress. Their
boots are like the men's longer ones, and meet the
trousers at the knee, with long stockings of reindeer skin
inside. Some of the women take great pains with their
boots and decorate them with intricate needle-work. It
is the only ornamented part of their costume. Beads
they are very fond of, but only wear them strung around
the neck and under one arm. I have seen some belles
with strings of beads around their necks that must have
been a load to carry, and though constantly in the way as
they bend to their work, they rather enjoy the discom-
fort, as one of the concessions due to the mandates of
fashion. The beads are also sometimes entwined with
their hair and draped around their shoulders in a still
more tantalizing manner, for when caught by any object
it not only arrests their movement but pulls their hair
besides. Many of the men wear beads for earrings, and
such as indulge in this fashion have ears that clearly
betoken its inconvenience. The lobe of the ear is sliced
in numerous places, and the later holes have to seek a
place for themselves higher and higher, and yet they
cling to these long strings of beads as if they really im-
proved their personal appearance. Some of the men also
wear bracelets and armlets of seal skin, and in fact so do
some of the younger women, and some have in addition a
band of the same material around the neck and dangling
110 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
down the breast, while some have this band extended
around the body; with the women this necklace is of
use, as to it is attached a small bag of seal skin about the
size of a quarter of a dollar. Nearly all the men smoke
and a few chew tobacco ; while, on the contrary, few of
the women smoke but all chew, and this little bag is used
to carry the daily chew in when not in the mouth, for
economy demands that a chew of tobacco shall do its full
duty. It is only discarded when a hydraulic press would
fail to extract from it anything like tobacco juice. The
same system of economy induces the men to mix finely
chopped shavings of wood or bark with their smoking
tobacco, and their pipes are the smallest known. Even
then they fill the bowl with reindeer hair before putting
in the tobacco, and when lighted they continue to inhale
the smoke without breathing until the tobacco is ex-
hausted. In the mean time the face and neck swell, the
veins are distended, the eyes shed tears, and when human
nature can stand it no longer they burst into a violent fit
of coughing and spitting, which lasts for several minutes.
It is of no use speaking to a man from the moment
the light is applied to the tobacco until the coughing
spell is over. While he is enjoying his pipe he can
attend to nothing else. If you were to tell him that a
mine beneath his feet was about to explode it would make
no difference to him — present comfort cannot be sacrificed
to secure future bliss. I saw one Tchouktchi who used
snuff. But this blase man of the world had lived near
the Eussian settlement at Mshne Kolymsk, and indulged
in other vices, such as the use of a fork in eating walrus
meat and a spoon made of the horn of the mountain
sheep to eat blubber and chopped grass. He was alto-
gether too refined for the society in which he lived.
EETEETLAN. \\\
The house at Eeteetlan was built upon the only beach
the island presented, and upon the only spot on that
beach which the natives said was not washed by the
waves during a violent gale. But before the sea was
frozen we saw many anxious hours when the water came
to the very foundation and threatened to undermine us.
We built a breakwater of stones about two feet from the
house and felt easier after that, though it was broken by
the waves in several places and the intervening space be-
tween it and the house was often filled with water that
dashed over it. It was not until the sea was finally frozen
between the island and the main-land, and the waves thus
stilled, that we felt perfectly secure. That was a happy
night. Storm after storm had annoyed us, and twice we
had stood watch by turns at night ; not that danger
threatened our lives, but our comfort. We needed the
house to protect us and our stores during the winter, and
it is hard to turn out in an Arctic storm to save your
property. A storm was raging that night when the sea
was sealed, and we had been watching the action of the
waves as they washed the pudge of soft ice in from the
sea toward the land. For several days the shore of the
main-land had been girt with ice, and we could see natives
walking upon it with snow shoes. The ice extended from
the land in a point toward a point of the island nearest
the land. At last the pudge reached this point, and as-
sisted by a snow-storm that was raging at the time, in a
few hours closed in the little bays on either side of the
point. We were seated in the house at the time and were
made aware of the closing of the sea by the sudden cessa-
tion of the noise of the waves upon the beach, and going
out doors were gratified to find our expectations realized.
Xo more night watches. Our house was safe until spring
112 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
at any rate. The very next day four natives came over
to us on snow-shoes, and the day following many came
on snow-shoes and sledges. Communication with the
main-land, which had been closed for about two weeks,
was again opened, and the natives at least were happy if
we were not. But we were glad to see them, and always
found it pleasant to have a few around for the sake of
companionship. We were only annoyed when the house
was filled so that it would be impossible to move without
wedging your way through them. And this was the
usual state of affairs whenever they could reach us. They
were good-natured, though ; and when Frank wanted room
to cook dinner we would simply invite them to go home
and call again when they had leisure. This he called
" firing them out ;" and when they went it was often only
to the outside of the building to flatten their noses against
the window and cut off all the daylight, those who had
not eligible places at the window being contented with
the report from those there of the progress of events in-
side. This was our daily life at Eeteetlan.
They would bring us walrus tusks and skins to trade,
and could not understand why we did not want the things
that were so much sought for by the vessels of commerce
that came to East Cape and the adjacent coast. Some
would bring reindeer meat, which was always acceptable;
some would fetch water from the main-land, or, later in
the season, ice ; and some brought nothing but eyes to
gaze all day in admiration or astonishment upon the
white strangers with hair on their faces. All this we had
to endure day after day during day-time, and our only
real enjoyment was during the evening, after dinner, when
the table was cleared and our commander would string
his guitar and sing sweet little Spanish love songs or some
EETEETLAN. 113
familiar air, when we could join in the chorus. In a small
party like ours strict man-of-war discipline was not neces-
sary, and our amusements were often intended for the
entertainment or instruction of the men rather than for
our own edification. " Peter," our Kamtchadal dog-
driver, was taken in hand by Putnam, and got as far
in the rudiments of an English education as D-O-Gr,
dog, and C-A-T, cat, while the Doctor and I played
" Pinafore" with the other two men. Or perhaps be-
sique or chess engaged the attention of some during
the evening. Sometimes all games and pursuits were
abandoned and a general discussion substituted upon
subjects of interest to us, or matters we knew noth-
ing about. Our life here, though monotonous, has not
been as disagreeable as might be supposed. To be sure
there were disagreeable features connected with it, but
we knew we did not come here entirely for pleasure. Oc-
casionally, as a great favor, some native was allowed to
remain with us over night, and such indulgences were
highly appreciated. They knew there was a cup of tea
about half -past nine or ten, with a biscuit and bit of
cheese, or some sardines, or perhaps a piece of the Doc-
tor's elegant Christmas cake. These little frivolities of
the white strangers were highly esteemed by their savage
guests, and the habits of the foreigners often imitated.
Thee ame of Christian cultivation, however, was only
reached by one old reindeer chief, who after dinner leaned
back in his chair and demanded the Doctor's napkin, the
napkin that was to last the rest of the voyage. This old
chief sang for us that evening, accompanying himself
upon Putnam's guitar. It was a monotonous melody,
and the words, which were the same throughout and oft
repeated, were " I— payk— e— com— up," but I never
8
114 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
could find out what they meant, or if they meant any-
thing at all.
After the snow fell and the ice bridge was formed, the
natives came to us on sledges, and I had an opportunity
of examining some vehicles that are a marvel of lightness
and strength. Only one or two persons ride on a sled at
a time, and the dogs always go at full speed. These little
sledges would bound over the rough ice between our camp
and the shore, and I at firsfc would expect to see them
dashed to pieces at any moment, but they seemed to be
made of whale-bone. During the daytime our house is
often surrounded with sledges of various sizes, and it
looks as if there was a fair in progress. I have counted
as many as twenty sleds at one time, with from three to
fourteen dogs each at the house ; and all the people who
came with them, besides those who came on foot, feel
that they have a claim to enter our only apartment and
be entertained for the day. They would come sometimes
long before daylight and before we were awake, and wait
outside in the cold perhaps for hours before admitted.
They are a patient race of beggars, and if they do not
get everything they see it is not because they neglected
to ask for it.
CHAPTER X.
LOSS OF THE RODGERS.
Camp "Hunt," Eeteetlan, N. S.,
December 31, 1881.
Durixg the latter part of the month of November I paid
a visit to a neighboring tribe of reindeer Tchouktchis to
get a supply of meat for our table. Their camp was only
about forty miles distant, but the days were very short
and the dogs very lazy, so we had to sleep on the snow
one night. The next day there was a violent gale accom-
panied by snow right in our faces, but my guide con-
ducted the sleds with unerring skill across that waste of
snow, without a single landmark that I could distinguish,
right to the tents of the Tchouktchis we were seeking.
When we first saw the tents, though on a level plain,
they were not 150 yards distant, so violent was the
storm. I found their tents exactly like those of the
Iowans; but it was here that I slept in one of these
houses for the first time, and I felt as if I would cer-
tainly be suffocated by the heat and foul air. The
only way I could secure enough comfort to sleep at all
was by putting my head outside the front curtain of rein-
deer skin. My body was sufficiently warm inside the
yoronger without any other covering. Thus it was we all
slept, our heads in one tent and our bodies in another.
This method is subject to one objection, as I have fre-
quently found. This outside tent, or yardnger, is the
115
116 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
shelter for all the dogs, and it is no rare thing to be
awakened during the night by a sense of nnusual cold
and find some affectionate dog licking your face or poking
his cold nose along your breast in his effort to gain admis-
sion to the interior apartment. I procured a fine young
reindeer and returned to the coast to find the gale of the
previous day had broken out the ice between our island
home and the main-land. I met Putnam at Tay-up-kine,
the native village on the shore nearest our house. He
was having his dogs harnessed for a trip to Wankaramen,
about 150 miles northwest, to deposit provisions to be
used by our sledging parties in the spring. He had
crossed the open water to the shore-ice the day before in
native canoes, and brought his sleds and eighteen dogs
with him. Petersen accompanied him on this trip, which
occupied ten days. I waited to see them off and then
went to the edge of the shore-ice to embark for the
island, but the young ice and pudge were so thick that
the heavily laden skin-boat could make no progress. An
hour and a half s hard work had not advanced us more
than three times the boat' s length from the shore-ice, and
we had to return, which took us two hours more. The
next day we made another attempt, but could only get-
about 150 yards from the shore-ice by using the skin-boat
as a bridge from one cake to another, and hauling it over
to be again launched upon the pudge. So strong was this
young ice that the boat would not sink into it until nearly
the whole load was in. Then it did not break, but just gave
way like thick mush. Again we were compelled to return,
and I made up my mind to await the freezing over of the
channel, which I thought would not be long, as the wind
was on shore, and kept driving the cakes and pudge
upon the point where the bridge was first formed. The
LOSS OF THE RODGERS. 117
next day it was snowing so that we conld not see the
island, but it looked as if the ice continued to the point ;
so several of the natives started, with snow-shoes upon
their feet and snow-canes in their hands, to try the pas-
sage. These snow-canes were a great novelty to me,
and are worthy of a description for the ingenuity of
their construction. They are made of wood, and a little
longer than an ordinary walking-stick. They are gen-
erally pointed with a ferule of walrus ivory, and about
two inches from the point is a hoop about six or eight
inches in diameter fastened to the cane by radii of seal-
skin thongs. This hoop and net work of seal-skin thongs
present a broad surface to the snow, and will sustain
considerable weight upon soft snow or pudge. The
natives always wear their snow-shoes and carry their
snow-canes when hunting seal along the edge of the ice
or placing their seal nets in the water. It is astonishing
what treacherous places they can walk upon when thus
equipped. I have seen them walking in the most
unconcerned manner upon thin pudge ice which was
rolling in long continuous swells from the waves, which
had not yet ceased their motion beneath. Here I may
state, that I have travelled over ice that had frozen solid,
and still preserved this undulating surface, though all
motion had ceased for weeks. It must have been a sud-
den lowering of the temperature that fixed the ice
before the water had recovered its level surface. About
three quarters of an hour after the advance guard had
started it was announced to me that they had reached
the island, and that the crossing was all right. So a
number of natives were going over, and would take me on
a sledge, as I was not accustomed to travelling in snow-
shoes. Three sledges started, and about twenty natives
118 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
followed on foot. The sled I rode upon broke through,
as soon as it struck the pudge, and I was waist deep in
water and slush in a moment, but by lying down and
changing my position by rolling around I kept from
sinking until they pushed the sledge back that had pre-
ceded me, and by holding on to it and paddling with
my feet I managed to reach a cake of ice where most of
the natives stood. They then put me on another sled,
and one man followed pushing, when the dogs were
floundering and could not pull me up on to the next cake.
In this way, by pulling and pushing from one cake to an-
other, we managed to reach the island in about an hour
and a half of as disagreeable travelling as I ever experi-
enced. The natives, on their snow-shoes, could stand
with impunity where I sank with the sledge.
Putnam returned a week afterwards, and had some
disagreeable experience in a gale of wind and snow while
crossing Peelkan Bay, which is called Koliutchin Bay
on the charts. He was obliged to spend the night on the
ice in that gale, or poorga, by which name such storms
are known and dreaded in Siberia. It is impossible for
animals to proceed in the face of such storms, and there is
nothing to be done but wait until they subside sufficiently
to admit of advancing. Upon broad plains, such as the
tundras, or marshes, there is as much danger sometimes
in halting as in going ahead, for in a very short time the
snow will envelope the whole party and bury them be-
neath it. Such storms have at times overtaken the post
chaises en route from one station to another, and after
such storms it has been the custom to send out gangs of
laborers with some one who is well acquainted with the
surface of the country. He may, perhaps, point to a hil-
lock, and say, "I never saw that before," and the labor-
LOSS OF THE RODGERS. 119
ers are set to work throwing aside the snow, and often
have they exhumed a stage coach with its horses and
occupants, perhaps all dead or nearly so. As a general
rule, however, the natives and residents near the tundras
know pretty well the indications of the approach of a
poorga and will not venture to cross until the weather
is settled. In other places, where coast lines or wood
country present landmarks that can be depended upon,
they do not feel the need of so much caution, as the worst
to be dreaded is, perhaps, the horrible discomforts of such
a storm. During the poorga on Peelkan Bay, Putnam
froze his wrist, and Petersen the tips of all his fingers.
They were but slight frost bites, and, though very sore
for awhile, are not to be regarded in this climate. Peter-
sen said he didn't mind freezing the tips of his fingers
particularly, except that it prevented him from playing
the piano. I think Putnam rather enjoyed it, as it gave
the Doctor something to do.
Within a few days after his return from this trip Put-
nam started for St. Lawrence Bay to visit the vessel, and
make arrangements for the spring sledge journey to
Kishne Kolymsk to ascertain if the Jeannette had been
heard of anywhere along the coast. When he reached
the village of Chayootoe, two days' journey from the win-
ter harbor of the Rodger s, he was startled by the infor-
mation received from natives, recently from St. Lawrence
Bay, that the ship had been destroyed by fire, and only a
small amount of provisions saved. They said that no
lives had been lost, and that the officers and men were
living with the natives in their huts and eating rotten
walrus meat. There seemed no doubt of the fact, though
the natives could only give the date by the weather, but
by this means we fixed the fire on December 1st, and it
120 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
actually occurred only the day before. As he felt certain
of the accuracy of his information, Putnam returned at
once to our house for provisions to carry to our ship-
wrecked comrades, and on the 27th of December started
again for St. Lawrencce Bay, with four large sledges
beside his own, and as much bread, coffee, sugar, pemmi-
can and canned meat as they could carry. He also took
some reading matter, and about a hundred pounds of
tobacco and cigarettes, which was about half of what we
had. On the 3d of January Captain Berry arrived at
Eeteetlan, and confirmed the sad news of the loss of his
vessel with nearly all her stores, and ordered me to pro-
ceed at once to Mshne Kolymsk, and from there to the
nearest telegraph station in Siberia, to forward to the
Secretary of the Navy a despatch announcing the loss of
the vessel, and then to proceed to Washington, through
Siberia and Europe, with his full written report of the
disaster. It was a long journey, and one fraught with
discomfort if not with danger, but under the circumstan-
ces the only thing to be done.
It was nearly nine o'clock on the morning of November
30th when smoke was seen issuing from the fore-hold of
the Rodger 's, then in winter harbor in St. Lawrence Bay,
and all the terrors of a fire on shipboard confronted the
crew of that doomed vessel. Every man on board took
his post with alacrity, but without confusion, and awaited
the commands of his superior officer. The hatches were
battened down, and streams of water were poured into the
hold from the deck force-pump, manned by the crew, and
from the steam-pump, worked by the donkey-boiler,
under which fires were continually kept up to heat the
ship. When the fore-hold was partially opened to admit
LOSS OF THE RODGERS. 123
the streams of water so much smoke escaped that the
men at the nozzles had to be constantly relieved, and the
fireman was driven from his post in the donkey-boiler
room. The door of the donkey-boiler room was then
closed and a hole made in the deck above the room, and
thus the fires were kept up. It was some time before the
main boilers could be used, for the connections had been
broken to prevent the pipes freezing, but as soon as they
were made fires were started, and by the time there was
sufficient steam to be of use the donkey -boiler room had
to be abandoned on account of the smoke, and the fires
were hauled from under that boiler. In the meantime
the Babcock fire extinguishers were discharged through
auger holes made through the deck, but did not seem to
affect the fire. The head-light oil and powder were then
taken on deck, where they could be thrown overboard or
placed in the boats as might become necessary, and the
vessel brought stern to the wind to keep the fire from
spreading aft. Now the smoke began to enter the coal-
bunkers and main fire-room, and efforts were made to get
out provisions and skin clothing, which were in the after
part of the ship, but already so much smoke and car-
bonic-acid gas had collected in the store-rooms that it
was impossible for the men to work there. There seemed
but one resort now, and that was to cut the steam -pipe
and fill the hold with steam. This seemed for a time to
subdue the fire, and the hopes of those on board were
raised with the prospect ; but the hose melted and the
smoke became so dense in the main boiler-room that it
was impossible for the firemen to remain longer at their
posts. All efforts now had to be directed toward saving
the crew, for it was apparent that the ship was lost be-
yond hope. Such sails as were still bent were spread,
124 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
and an effort made to run the vessel ashore, for the bay
was filled with young ice and pudge, through which it
was impossible to force a boat, even its own length, from
the ship, and yet not sufficiently strong to bear the weight
of a man. It seemed as if fate was against the ill-starred
vessel, for the wind, which had been blowing strong dur-
ing the morning, when it increased the danger, now that
a strong breeze was desirable to force the ship through the
ice, died out completely and the vessel scarcely moved
through the water. What motion she had was directed
by the tide and ice, for she would not mind her helm, and
drifted into the channel between Lutke Island and a low
spit running out from the main-land, where she grounded
in shallow water, and again hopes were entertained that
something might yet be saved. These hopes, however,
were of short duration, for the smoke rendered it impos-
sible to reach the valve that closed the out- board delivery
from the engine and by which means the hold could be
filled with water, and thus the fires extinguished while
the vessel would be held firmly aground. But, with three
or four heavy bumps, she passed on over the bar into the
deep water of the outer harbor. While passing the low
spit which juts out from the main-land, an attempt was
made to get a line on shore by means of a light skin canoe,
and after one or two failures, which occasioned the most
anxious delays, a small line was landed and thus a stouter
cable hauled on shore and made fast to a piece of drift-
wood which was frozen into the beach. By this line it
was attempted to warp the ^.ve boats ashore, but they
made slow progress, and it became necessary to abandon
the two rear boats, and their crews were put into the others
after the line had been cut clear from the vessel. They
were subsequently hauled ashore by the line and all con-
LOSS OF THE RODGERS. 125
nection with the doomed vessel was severed. It was not
midnight when the last boat left the side of the ship, and
though but about five hundred yards from the beach it
was two o'clock of December 1st before they reached the
shore. Before that, however, they saw the flames break
out through the fore hatch, and envelope the entire ship,
and as if the deserted vessel was making one last despair-
ing appeal for assistance, a sky-rocket went whizzing into
the firmament from amidst the flames, and two rifles, or
shot guns, which it had been impossible to save from the
steerage, discharged their volleys over the grave of the
Rodger s. Presently the wind changed its direction to the
southeast and drove the vessel back directly for the beach,
to the most intense gratification of the ship- wrecked crew;
but, to their utter chagrin, her course was again changed
by the ice and she passed into the channel well up into
the harbor, where she was last seen on the morning of
December 2d, still burning, and where she subsequently
sank. All were too much fatigued to attempt the con-
struction of a shelter, but slept in the open air. The fol-
lowing morning, the wind having shifted during the night
to the northward, the ice was seen to have left the shore,
and the boats were launched and headed for the native
village of Nunamo, near the cape of that name, but the
ice again closing in, they were forced to return and again
haul the boats ashore. Another night was passed here in
a violent snow-storm, with no other shelter than could be
provided by the boats with their sails and canvas. It
happened that two native Tchouktchis were on board the
vessel at the time of the disaster and landed with the
crew. As soon as they reached the land they set out for
their homes, and, on the morning of December 2d, re-
turned to the ship- wrecked party with other natives and
126
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
all the sleds of the village. A most cordial invitation was
extended to Captain Berry to bring his people to their
village, and live with them nntil relief should arrive from
the United States. No offer of assistance could have been
more well meant or timely, and Captain Berry very grate-
fully accepted the hospitality of these generous savages,
leaving Ensign H. J. Hunt with a party in charge of the
boats and stores until a few days later, when sufficient
open water appeared to permit their removal also to the
village. Other villages soon re-
quested permission to be of as-
sistance, and asked for their
quota of men to take care of,
and soon the crew were scattered
throughout all the villages that
surround the bay. Both the dogs
on board the Rodgers perished
with the vessel, one of them a
queer little animal nick-named
" One-eyed Riley," who had
been a great pet with the sailors.
The grief of the natives when
they saw the ship burning, and
knew the condition of the ice, was
no doubt genuine. The old chief of the village which was
the first to offer shelter to the people of the Rodgers wrung
his hands and cried, ' ' Ship cook ' em, no good. Too many
men cook 'em, no go shore." Almost all the men near
East Cape speak a little English, and some quite well.
One man whom I met on board the steam whale-ship
Belvidere, a Tchouktchi from Plover Bay, talks English
as well as if he had been born in the United States and
lived there all his life. He had been for fourteen years
" ONE-EYED FwILEY.
LOSS OF THE RODGERS. 127
before the mast on American ships, and thus had visited
nearly every known land. I have no doubt he has the
reputation at home of being a big liar, because he tells
the truth about the white men's country and about
animals that look like little men and have feet like hands
and long tails. The natives who visit us at our house on
Eeteetlan are never tired of listening to anecdotes about
monkeys and parrots, the birds that talk, and I had to
translate the parrot language into Tchouktchi for their
benefit. This gave more force to the anecdotes, though
it made it all the more difficult for the narrator, with only
a limited knowledge of the language at his command.
An incident transpired about this time at St. Lawrence
Bay that tends to show that in some instances the bread
that is cast upon the waters will return even before the
many days are up. Shortly after the ship entered the
harbor, an old Tchouktchi, named Owingeleen, was out
in his canoe hunting walrus when he was caught by a gale
and detained on Lutke Island for a week. There were with
him at the time a number of men, women and children,
and they could neither reach the land nor the ship.
They had no food, and Captain Berry, when he noticed
their desperate condition and saw them running up and
down the beach looking for the disgusting little kelp-fish
to stay their hungry stomachs, felt a sympathy for them,
and slacked a boat ashore to the edge of the surf, where
he threw overboard a keg containing bread, molasses, and
canned meat, which washed ashore and was picked up by
the natives. Two days afterward the storm abated some-
what, and the old man came aboard to return thanks for
the timely gift, and when the bay froze over he would
bring some reindeer meat. The incident was forgotten
until after the ship was burnt, when the old man made his
128 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
appearance with reindeer meat and tallow, and said the
white men had been good to him. ' ' Now cook ' em ship, ' ■
he wanted to do something, and took two men to his own
house, while recommending the others to the kind offices
of his people.
CHAPTER XL
PROSPECTS OF RELIEF.
Camp Hunt, Eeteetlan, N. S.,
Jan. 1st, 1882.
Captain" Berry is at a loss to account for the origin of
the fire, as the place where it first made its appearance
was stored with materials that are not considered subject
to spontaneous combustion. He thinks that it may have
occurred from the charring of the deck underneath the
donkey boiler. The steam pipes for heating the ship all
pass between decks except the waste pipe, which returns
through the hold, but before reaching that the steam has
made the round of the ship and is comparatively cool.
The men lost everything except what they had with them
at the time when the fire broke out, as the smoke filled
the forecastle almost immediately, and when they had
once left it they were unable to return. The officers lost
nearly all their clothing, and indeed such of their ward-
robe as was saved and not required for immediate use
was distributed among the men who most needed it.
Captain Berry says that all behaved in the most exem-
plary manner, but has mentioned to the Secretary of the
Navy, Master-at-Arms Wm. F. Morgan as especially de-
serving of credit for his conspicuous gallantry and deter-
mination in maintaining his position at the nozzle of the
hose in the smoking hold, until dragged out by the rope
around his waist more dead than alive. Several times
129
130 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
this was repeated, until the Captain forbade his re-enter-
ing the hold. This order, however, was unnecessary, for
already he was stretched upon the deck, nearly suffo-
cated, and it was more than two weeks before he had
recovered his strength so as to be able to walk around
unassisted.
Captain Berry expects to be able to engage one of the
vessels of the whaling fleet among the first to enter Beh-
ring Strait this spring, to take him to St. Michael's in
Alaska, where he will await the arrival of the Alaska
Commercial Company's steamer St Paul, and engage
passage for his people upon her to San Francisco, should
no vessel be sent to his relief from the Pacific fleet. He
also recommends that any vessel that may be sent to his
relief shall bring some presents as rewards for the kind
savages who have taken him, with his officers and men,
into their houses and fed them through the entire winter.
It matters not that their homes are a trifle worse than the
meanest shanties in civilized communities, they are their
only homes and the welcome was genuine and well meant.
Should the gifts come before the party leaves Behring
Strait the Captain can see that the presents reach the in-
dividuals most deserving. It would cost but a trifle to
reward them handsomely. What they want is ship's
bread, molasses, tea, sugar, Henry rifles, and cartridges,
powder, bullets, lead, caps, shot, knives, axes, saws, and
carpenter's tools in general, needles, thimbles, calico,
beads, tobacco, pipes, match-rope, matches, pots, kettles,
pans, tin cups, chopping-knives, and under-clothing. It
would not cost -Qye thousand dollars to make them the
happiest savages on the eastern continent, and teach them
that it is nothing lost to care for white people who need
assistance. There is no doubt but that the Russian Gov-
PROSPECTS OF RELIEF. 131
eminent will decorate with gold medals those who have
been most conspicuous in kindness to our people, but, at
the same time, it would not be out of place for some recog-
nition to come from the people most interested in those
who have received the benefit. It may not seem like
much of a gift to feed a hungry man on rotten walrus
meat, but there are sometimes occasions in the life of a
sailor when even a meal of so disgusting a character as that
may prove a great blessing. I remember, before leaving
the ship for this island, that I was occasionally tempted,
when passing a quarter of beef that hung in the rigging,
to cut off a slice of the cold raw meat and eat it. One
of my comrades among the officers bantered me about it
one day and asked if I did not do it to " show off." He
could not realize that anyone could like raw meat. I told
him that he might be thankful if, before he got home
again, he would not be glad to get anything as good as
that to eat. Since the loss of the ship his only food
has been the rotten walrus meat of the natives, and
he has sent me word here that he remembers what I
said, and that he has seen the day alluded to. There is
another officer, who had been brought up in Paris and
accustomed to the indulgence of a taste educated in that
city of supreme cookery, whose stomach revolted at the
idea of raw meat, and yet he knew how efficacious it is
considered in averting scurvy. He often in the ward-
room announced his intention during the winter of forc-
ing himself to eat a certain quantity of raw meat as an
anti-scorbutic, and said he intended to select the best por^
tions of reindeer meat and make it into pills, which he
would throw down his throat and compel himself to swal-
low. Poor fellow, he is faring worse than that now, and
has no chance or desire to make pills of his food. It is
132 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
no trifling matter in his case, either, for it was a long time
before he conld bring himself to eat this food at all, and
only then when he was actually starved into it. He has
grown thin and weak, and Captain Berry has felt great
anxiety for him. Most of the officers and men submitted
as gracefully as possible to the force of circumstances,
and are in good health and spirits. The want of tobacco
is keenly felt by those accustomed to its use, and the
lack of a sufficient supply of skin clothing has made it
necessary for some to confine themselves to the houses
more than is healthful. Captain Berry has, however,
succeeded in securing nearly enough to clothe all his peo-
ple, and on his return to St. Lawrence Bay will take an
additional supply from this station.
There was another officer with a dainty appetite, who
had grown stout on good things, and often at the mess
table in the ward room of the Rodger s would send his
untasted food out to be given to "the poor," who would
gladly number himself with that host now. He has lost
a great deal of that graceful rotundity of person that pre-
viously distinguished him, for it was a long time before
he could eat what was set before him. But youth, a
cheerful disposition and sound health have come to
his relief and given him an appetite that does more
than spice to make his food palatable to him. It will
require a long season, however, at the restaurants of
San Francisco before the clothes he left there will fit
him.
The following letter from one of the officers on the ship
at the time of the disaster, which was written to the chief
surgeon, who is with the party at this island, and which
was not intended for publication, gives a graphic account
of the condition of affairs there.
PROSPECTS OF RELIEF. 133
North Head, December 24th, 1881.
My Dear Doctor :
To be in the fashion, I will begin by wishing you all a Merry
Christmas and a Happy New Year. As the Captain will give you
a full detail of the disaster, I'll merely confine myself to a bird's-
eye view of the affair, and our present pitiable condition. The
fire was in the fore-hold, and, in spite of all our efforts to extin-
guish it, kept gaining upon us until two p.m., when we had to
abandon the ship. All hands were hard at work all day. I my-
self kept passing buckets of water for a good long while, and then
turned to, and, with Stoney and two men, removed all the coal-oil
from the sail room, which, being in the immediate vicinity of the
fire, got very hot, and consequently little fitted for so dangerous a
substance as coal-oil. The dispensary was thick with smoke all day,
and when the fire alarm was given I opened it and threw all the
whiskey and alcohol overboard. I was kept pretty busy all day
between the fire and the sick. We had several accidents, all of
which were cases of asphyxia. Morgan, especially, was very ill,
and has not quite recovered yet. When he was taken out of the
fore-hold he presented all the signs of asphyxia, the breathing
being very difficult. We had to employ Sylvester's method for
artificial respiration, which proved very successful indeed. Among
the other patients were Stoney, Grace and Loudon. The ward-
room was full of smoke all day and also of carbonic-acid gas, gen-
erated by the burning coal, and the result was fifteen men suffer-
ing with acute cephalalgy. All that could be done to save the
ship, and all that ingenuity could suggest, was tried, but all to no
purpose. Everybody was cool and attended faithfully to his share
of the work. No provisions or clothing could be got at, and we
lost most of our things. I, for my part, only saved two suits of
under-clothing, a pair of trousers, and four plugs of tobacco, for I
had no time to attend to my own things, busy as I was with my
patients and trying to see them safely stowed in their respective
boats. In consequence of this I could save nothing belonging
134 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
to the medical department except the journal and the atmospheric
reports up to date. Orders had also been issued that the boats
were to be loaded only with whatever provisions and trade articles
we could find about the deck. I hated to see all the instruments
and the microscope go, but it could not be helped. The ice was
very thick around the ship and had we not succeeded in getting
a line ashore with the skin boat some lives might have been lost,
for we could not make any headway and the flames were spreading
aft, and if we had attempted to reach the beach over the ice we
would have broken through and would have been immediately
frozen, for we had to spend the night ashore shivering with cold
and harassed by hunger, as we had had nothing to eat all day. The
subsequent day we made an attempt to reach the village of North
Head, about five miles up the coast, but a southerly wind sprang
up and choked the bay with ice, so that our boats were utterly
helpless. "We landed again and built a tent with the boats and
their sails, where we spent an uncomfortable night, especially
the Captain and I, for we were right under a part of the canvas
which, weighed down by the falling snow, formed a percolater
through which the water kept constantly dropping upon us. The
next morning after that uncomfortable night the natives came
down with their sledges to take us to their village. I had the sick
comfortably fixed, keeping Morgan on the sleigh I was attached to.
To give you an idea of our weakness I need only say that it took us
nearly eight hours to reach the village, distant only about four and
a half miles. This is not surprising if you take into consideration
that we had had scarcely any food and no water for two days.
Hunt and his boat's crew were left on the beach to take care of the
things that could not be taken on the sleighs. Three days later
we all returned to the beach to bring the boats around. A harder
and colder work I never undertook, and my right foot was pretty
badly frost-bitten. I at first went to the house of a reckless native
called "Sam," and for the first week had nothing but rotten
walrus. On inquiry I found that the grub was better in the other
houses, so I unceremoniously moved into the Captain's house,
PROSPECTS OF RELIEF. 135
where the grub is a little better and seldom rotten. But pour
comhle de malheur, our host is suffering from a disease which,
though latent now, may break out at any time, as it did last
winter, according to his own account, and make it still more
unpleasant for us in such confined quarters. Life here is of
course very monotonous, and twenty out of the twenty-four
hours we spend upon our backs. We all crave for something to
do, and especially for something to eat. For my part, I am always
hungry. I spend the day craving for something or other, and
several times I have dreamed that I was in a good restaurant
enjoying a good dinner, when I would be suddenly awakened by
our hostess to feast on seal or walrus meat. We saved two half
barrels of beans, two tins of coffee, two half barrels of sugar and
five of flour, and now and then we indulge in the luxury of a plate
of bean soup. To-morrow, in order to celebrate Christmas with
proper dignity, we are to have some bean soup besides a cup of
coffee. Just think of it ! I am impatient for the day to arrive.
I have no Christmas presents to send to any of you, but I want
one from each. From you I want a four-ounce bottle of molasses ;
from u Put " a buttered biscuit (half an inch of butter on each
half of the biscuit), and from Gilder, two pounds of smoking
tobacco, for I don't know what I should do if I were to be without
it. Smoking helps to kill the time so much. Remind the Captain to
bring down some Tobasco sauce, and some salt and pepper. It is
useless to describe the horrible life we are living here, for you
will all have a taste of it in April when you come down to
meet the whaler.
My best love to all. Your sincere
C.
The winter has been, so far, an exceedingly mild one,
but whether unusually so for this coast I have at present
no data for ascertaining. The lowest temperature re-
corded up to date, January 7th, was on the 18th and 19th
of December, when the thermometer recorded — 35° F.
136 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
December 29th it rose to 13°F., with a wind from the east
and sonth to southwest. The natives say it is always
milder at this part of the coast than even a few miles to
the east or west, and it was not difficult to recognize a
considerably lower temperature upon the main-land close
by than upon the island, though we had no opportunity
of making a test with the thermometer. A very faithful
record of the temperature and condition .of the atmos-
phere has been kept by Frank Melms, one of the party
at this island, which will prove very interesting as a por-
tion of the meteorological history of the Arctic.
The position of the island was established by numerous
observations of the stars before the weather became too
cold to use the necessary instruments, and ascertained to
be 67° 03' north latitude and 172° 45' west longitude.
Among the natives I found two of Lieutenant Hovgaard' s
visiting cards, on which he had written the date and posi-
tion of the Vega when frozen in, October, 1878, and gave
the position, as ascertained by observations with an ice
horizon, as 67° 05' north latitude and 173° 15' west longi-
tude. The position of the Vega during that winter was
often pointed out to me by the natives, and agrees most
satisfactorily with our observations, for I should estimate
her location as about eighteen miles west of Eeteetlan and
a little further off shore.
CHAPTER XII.
THE FATE OF PUTNAM.
Another disaster which befell the crew of the Rodger s
happened after my departure, and was related to me
by Captain Berry at Yakontsk. When the vessel went
into winter quarters it was the intention of Lieuten-
ant Berry to build a small house on shore immedi-
ately, and transfer thither a large part of his stores.
The weather continued so unfavorable, however, that he
had been unable to land material, otherwise there would
have been an ample supply of provisions on the beach.
Ten days before the fire Mr. Hunt started, with a team of
nine dogs, up the coast, with the intention of visiting the
officers at the Wood House on Eeteetlan Island, which was
about one hundred and fifty miles distant, but owing to
the severe storms he was compelled to turn back, arriving
at St. Lawrence Bay two days before the fire. The next
day Hunt went aboard the ship, leaving his team on the
beach, and these were the only dogs saved, some having
died and some being lost with the ship. Their condition
would not have been quite so deplorable if plenty of dogs
had been saved. During that first night on shore they
tried to get the rest and sleep so much needed, but the
temperature was so low that occasionally they were
obliged to get up and run to keep up the circulation. At
first it was undecided whether to try and reach St.
Michael's in the boats, go to Eeteetlan or remain with
137
138 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
the natives at North Head. On consideration it was
seen that the journey to St. Michael's was impossible, for
the distance is nearly four hundred miles, and the ice
would render their boats useless. The Wood House was
also out of the question, because provisions for only six
men had been left there, and thirty extra men would
soon consume them, and leave all in a worse predicament.
Besides, they had no way of conveyance, and would have
to walk the distance — about one hundred and fifty miles
— a very fatiguing journey when the snow is upon the
ground. They did not know whether or not the natives
would prove friendly, having had but little communica-
tion with them since their arrival in the bay.
It was decided to cast their lot with the natives, and
next morning the boats were launched (the ice having
blown a short distance from shore during the night) and
headed for the village at North Head. The ice soon
closed in, compelling Lieutenant Berry to haul the boats
up on the beach ; and a camp was formed with upturned
boats, sails and tents, and all made themselves as comfort-
able as possible during the violent snowstorm which had
set in. Half a pound of pemmican each and some bread
was served out for the day's fare. Some natives came to
the camp in sledges and invited the shipwrecked people
to their village. The offer was gratefully accepted, and
when the storm abated each crew (the ship's company
was divided into boat's crews, with an officer in charge of
each) made its way as best it could to the village, about
seven miles distant, where they arrived after a hard day's
tramp through snow from two to three feet deep. One
boat's crew was left in charge of the provisions and
boats at the camp. This trip was the most fatiguing of
any attempted during the winter, the men being insuffi-
THE FATE OF PUTNAM. 139
ciently clothed and rendered unfit for travel by their
recent exertions at the fire.
When the village was reached the crew was divided,
two men being assigned to each house or hut ; and here
they got their first introduction to walrus and blubber.
In four or five days the storm ceased, and a party was
sent down for the boats and provisions. The ice had been
broken up and driven off shore, so the boats were
launched and stowed and sailed round to North Head.
It was intensely cold, making the trip anything but
agreeable. The boats were hauled up for the winter.
The first thing was to trade. Lieutenant Berry at once
began to trade with the natives for clothing, and he soon
had the men comfortably clad. The provisions saved
from the ship were kept in reserve, every one being com-
pelled to live on the native food. In three days the sup-
ply of meat in the village began to run short, and it
became evident to Lieutenant Berry that his crew would
have to be divided. Natives from other villages had
kindly invited some to come and spend the winter with
them, so the crew was divided into three parties. Mr.
Zane was placed in charge of one party, and went to the
village at South Head ; Mr. Hunt, with his party, took
up his abode in a settlement a short distance up the bay ;
Mr. Waring and Mr. Stoney remained with the rest at
North Head.
As soon as we who were left on the Island had become
established, Mr. Putnam set up a tide gauge and took a
series of observations to definitely determine the position
of the island, which was found to be, as I said, 172°
45' E. L. and latitude 67° 3' north. He was on his way
down the coast with the intention of visiting the ship to
report progress when he heard at Inchuan, twenty-five
140 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
miles west of East Cape, of the burning of the ship. He
immediately started back for the Wood House, hired four
natives and all the teams he could, loaded the sleds with
provisions and started for St. Lawrence Bay. On all the
sleds were stowed five boxes of bread, about one thousand
pounds of pemmican and a few small stores. In the
meantime Lieutenant Berry turned over the command of
everything at the bay to Master Waring, and, in company
with one native, had started for the Wood House, taking
the one surviving team of dogs. At Inchuan he met Mr.
Putnam, and gave him orders to continue his trip and to
bring Mr. Hunt and Mr. Zane back with him. Early in
January Mr. Putnam and his three natives arrived at
their destination. He remained several days after de-
livering the provisions to allow his dogs to recuperate.
On January 10, the weather being fine, they left the
North Head for the Wood House, Mr. Putnam driving
his own team and Mr. Hunt riding on the sled with him,
Dr. Castillo riding with Ehr Ehren — the principal native
of the party — and Mr. Zane riding with another native.
Dr. Castillo was going up for the trip only, and had made
arrangements with a native at St. Lawrence Bay to bring
him back. They had not proceeded far when Putnam's
sled broke down, and, although repaired by his men,
Hunt was obliged to ride with the third native. It is
hard to say whether this little accident caused the loss of
Putnam or the safety of Hunt. Toward noon the sky be-
came overcast. A wind sprang up from the northward
and soon increased to a terrific gale, filling the air so
thickly with snow that it became impossible to see the
route, and consequently the natives lost their way. They
kept on, however, making the dogs face the gale, until six
p, m., when the natives deemed it expedient to camp
THE FATE OF PUTNAM. 141
where they were for the night. It was absolutely neces-
sary to come to a halt, because it would have been death
to the dogs to compel them to face the gale longer. The
air was so thick with the drifting snow that the lead dogs
could not be seen by the drivers. This was a night of
most intense suffering, sometimes sitting on the sleds to
try to get a little sleep, and then compelled to move about
to get warm. The thermometer registered — 30° Fahren-
heit, and they were obliged to remain in this temperature,
without even protection from the winds, from six o' clock in
the evening until eight next morning. In the morning it
moderated a little, and they decided to return to St. Law-
rence Bay and wait until the weather became more suit-
able for travelling. The storm increased in violence all
the time, but as the wind was now behind they had no
trouble, and the bay was reached in safety. There being
no dog food at North Head it became necessary to go to
the south side. The bay was crossed, arriving on the
southern shore about one and a half miles from the village
of Nutapinwin, their destination. All the heavy gales
during this season of the year were from the northward
and westward. Just before getting to the village it was
necessary to make a sharp turn to the right and go in the
teeth of the gale for about two hundred yards. The order
in which the sleds were proceeding was, Castillo and Ehr
Ehren, Putnam, Zane and Notung and Hunt and a native,
who were some distance behind. Proceeded along well
until they made the turn to face the gale, when Putnam,
not having the ability to control dogs so well as the na-
tives (it is difficult to force the dogs to go to windward in
a severe storm), or probably not knowing of the abrupt
deviation from his course, as he could not see the other
sleds turn, probably kept straight on. Zane, being famil-
142 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
iar with the locality, recognized some landmarks when
near the village, but Putnam could not recognize the
marks, as this was his first visit to the place.
About this time Zane overtook Putnam, and when their
sleds were abreast remarked, "Well, Put, it seems that
we are all right after all." Putnam answered, "I hope
so." They were the last words he was ever heard to utter,
and that was the last seen of him. His sled fell a little
behind. The natives made the turn with some difficulty,
but Putnam missed it, partly owing to his being unable to
see them. It is thought that as the wind was quartering
he was sitting on his sled back to the wind, which, being
very strong, gradually edged his sled out of the track
toward the ice, which was but a short distance off. How-
ever, he got on the ice, and the supposition is that after
going some distance out he became aware of his mistake,
and not being able to see which way to go, and his shouts
not being heard in such a violent gale, he camped, decid-
ing to wait for clear weather, and also knowing that a
search would be made for him as soon as he was missed.
On reaching the village, in about five minutes after speak-
ing with Putnam, Mr. Zane went immediately into a
house, as he was almost frozen. It was soon discovered
that Putnam was missing, and, thinking that he had
made some mistake, a native started down to the beach
to look for him, and when Hunt came along on his
sled he found Notung (the native) yelling with all his
might, but, thinking this noise was to guide him, kept on
to the village. Here he ascertained that it was Putnam
he was seeking. Hunt went in and inquired of Zane if
Putnam had arrived ; this was the first intimation Zane
had of the unfortunate occurrence. Both then started for
the beach to assist in the search ; they were both now
THE FATE OF PUTNAM. 143
thorougly alarmed, for they could appreciate the danger
of being lost in such a storm. They offered every induce-
ment, entreated, and ordered the natives to hitch up the
dogs and hunt for the unfortunate man ; but they would
neither hitch up their dogs nor allow them to use their
own dogs, saying that the gale was too heavy, they could
not see, and that probably next day would be fine and
then all would go out and hunt. All threats proving un-
availing, nothing could be done but to wait for the mor-
row. The gale was increasing in violence every moment.
After going down to the beach it was impossible to get
back to the houses, the wind blew so strong in the face.
During the night the heavy wind detached the ice from
shore and carried it to sea. Next morning, at daylight,
they again went on the search. Hunt and Zane started
along the beach, and natives taking various other direc-
tions to look for him. The wind had gone down some,
but it was still blowing so hard as to make travelling very
difficult. The morning was clear, however, and a con-
siderable distance could be seen. Hunt and Zane gazed
on the place which the night before had been one sheet of
ice, and saw that it was now clear water, with no ice in
sight. They walked along the beach about a mile, until
they came to a bluff which they knew it would have been
impossible to pass on a sled, and satisfied themselves that
he was not on the beach. It was almost certain that he
had camped on the ice and been carried to sea with it. The
only chance for his safety seemed to be that the wind
would spring up from the southward and drive the ice in
shore, or that it would become calm and allow new ice
to form between the old and the shore, so that the un-
fortunate man could walk over it.
The next day Hunt and Zane, with three natives, started
144 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
for North Head to notify Waring of the sad accident ;
Castillo was left at South Head to look after Putnam if
he should come ashore. After crossing the bay they met
Waring and told him of the calamity. He told them to
proceed to the Wood House in obedience to the orders of
Lieutenant Berry, and he would immediately set out on a
search along the coast for Putnam. The Wood House
was reached on the 19th, where they found Lieutenant
Berry busy in making preparations for a sledge journey
along the coast to the westward, expecting Putnam to
accompany him. When Waring heard of the accident he
was on his way to South Head to get some walrus meat,
provisions at his village being scarce ; he gave the charge
of everything at North Head to Stoney, and went on to
search to the southward. At half -past two that afternoon
(19th) he received a note from Cahill, one of the crew sta-
tioned at South Head, stating that Putnam had been seen
on the morning of the 13th on an ice-floe about three miles
from shore. The natives would not launch their skin-boats
on account of the intervening thin ice (which is even worse
on the boats than heavy ice), though every effort was made
by Cahill, who offered large rewards, to induce them to do
so. Late in the afternoon of the following day word was
received that Putnam had been seen from a village six
miles south of South Head, on the ice eight miles from
shore, and that the natives were making preparations to
rescue him. Waring pushed on to the village, reached it
that night through a heavy wind and snow storm, blowing
hard off shore. It was here ascertained that on the pre-
ceding day an attempt had been made by four men of the
Rodger s' crew, assisted by two natives, to rescue Putnam;
but after proceeding nearly three miles they were forced
to return, the boat having been cut through in so many
THE FATE OF PUTNAM. 145
places that they were barely able to keep her afloat until
shore was reached. Another severe off-shore storm was
now raging, and the unfortunate man was lost sight of.
The natives were confident that the ice-floe would be
driven inside of a point some distance down the coast,
and preparations were immediately made to go down to
the point as soon as the weather would permit. Now
there was trouble in procuring dogs to travel, because the
natives at both North and South Head were afraid, on
account of some previous difiiculty with the natives at
Indian Point, to go down the coast or to allow their dogs
to go, saying they would be killed. At last, however, a
team was scraped up from four villages, ranging over a
space of thirty or forty miles. It was the 17th before an-
other start could be made ; it opened stormy but soon
moderated, and the search continued with one native and
a team of eight dogs. The coast was skirted to the sixth
settlement, about thirty miles, but no news was heard ;
the off-shore wind had driven the heavy ice to sea. The
next day, not being able to get dogs to continue the jour-
ney, Waring was compelled to return to the village next
to South Head.
Natives were now despatched along the coast offering
great rewards for the rescue of Putnam, or for his body if
he were dead. Another heavy gale set in, making travel-
ling impossible. On the 22d a southeast gale brought
the ice in shore again, but it was found that the sea- had
crushed it up into small pieces, no heavy floes being any-
where in sight. Men from down the coast brought no
news. The case appeared almost hopeless now, as all of
the floes must have broken up during the five days' gale.
The ice was not more than ^.ve or six feet thick and had
much slush and snow on it, and could not possibly have
146 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
withstood so continuous a storm. Waring retraced his
steps and reached North Head at dark on the 24th, but
returned to South Head the next day. On the 26th he
received a rumor that some dogs had come on shore from
the ice. For two days he was prevented by storms from
proceeding ; but on the 29th, though intensely cold, he
started down the coast to identify the dogs. He arrived
at Lauren, thirty miles down the coast, in the evening, and
found three of Putnam's dogs there. Several dogs came
ashore, but the natives could catch only three. The na-
tives said that all came ashore without harness. Whether
the dogs really came ashore without harness or whether
the natives, fearing the dogs would be claimed and taken
from them, told this story to make Waring think they
did not belong to Putnam is not known; but the dogs
were positively recognized as belonging to the team Put-
nam drove on that fatal day. Rumors of Putnam's
having been seen were constantly coming in, and after
being weather-bound for three days Waring, on the 2d of
February, started down the coast to verify them. He
kept steadily on, searching the whole coast minutely from
South Head to Plover Bay. He communicated with
several natives who spoke good English, and they were
satisfied that Putnam had never come near the shore.
At Engwort (sixty miles from South Head) another dog,
with a pistol shot wound in his neck, came on shore ten
days previously and was recognized as belonging to Put-
nam's team. This dog — as, indeed, all were — was very
thin and emaciated, covered with ice and had every ap-
pearance of having been long in the water. Putnam had
probably shot this dog, intending to use it for food, but
it had succeeded in escaping. In all six dogs, out of a
team of nine, came ashore. At Marcus Bay and Plover
THE FATE OF PUTNAM. 147
Bay letters were left for the whalers, informing them of
the condition of the wrecked crew and urging them to
hasten to their assistance. Mr. Waring was more than a
month on this trip, getting back on the 18th of February,
and did not return until he was fully satisfied that there
were no hopes of Putnam's safety.
Under Mr. Stoney's supervision a thorough search of
the coast was made to the northward as far as East Cape,
but to no purpose. Most of the gales had been from the
northwest and the ice could not have drifted up there
though there is quite a strong current setting to the north-
ward through Behring Strait.
It is known that Putnam was not dead the third day
after being lost, and how much longer he survived can
only be conjectured. All this time the temperature was
from 20 to 40 degrees below zero, and he had no protec-
tion from the piercing winds. True, he was very warmly
clad. He probably killed one or more of his dogs for
food ; he surely did not die of starvation. The floe that
he was on doubtless broke into fragments during one of
the gales and he was drowned. It would not seem so
awful if he had perished in a shorter time, at least it
would be some consolation to know that his sufferings
were not so prolonged. Some spoke of there being a pos-
sibility of his having drifted down to St. Lawrence Island
thus being saved ; but the officers spoke some natives from
the island while oi> their way down in the Corwin, and
they knew nothing of the accident. Thus the last hopes
of his shipmates were destroyed. The natives gave all
the assistance in their power to aid in the search. News
of the loss was known all along the coast and men were
placed on the lookout within two days after it occurred.
10
CHAPTEE XIII.
ACROSS SIBERIA.
Sradnia Koltmsk, N. S.
March St7i, 1882.
The sun was above the horizon less than two hours a
day at the time I left Eeteetlan for the Kolyma River on
my way to the telegraph station in Eastern Siberia, whither
I was sent to carry the news of the disaster. This gave
very short days and very long nights, which is one of the
inconveniences of winter journeys within the Arctic circle.
To be sure, it is not so difficult to follow a coast line or travel
over a road well known to the driver even in the dark as
to travel over unknown territory, but still it has its dis-
advantages, and these are increased to a near-sighted man,
who at night might nearly as well be blind. While upon
a sled which is under the guidance of another person, he
can nerve himself to submit blindly and confidently to his
driver ; but even this is trying when the road is so rough
as to require all his strength to maintain his position
upon the sled. The natives here also have a very incon-
venient habit of starting long before daylight, even when
they have only a short distance to go and could easily
accomplish it by daylight. They will do this also when
daylight is followed by a bright moon and the mornings
are dark. They have no idea of time, and often mistake
the northern light for approaching sunrise. There seems
to be some one up and moving around in camp at any
148
ACROSS SIBERIA. 149
hour of the day or night, and yon may hear him in the
outer tent, when the following conversation ensues be-
tween him and some occupant :
The occupant shouts "May?" to which there comes
a responsive grunt ; then the occupant " Ydyteef " An-
other grunt. "Nerartboree?" Another grunt. "Mgerof"
"E-e-e" which means yes, and all may be liberally trans-
lated as "Hallo," "Is that you?" "Are there two of
you?" meaning are you alone, and then, "Is daylight
coming ? " "Yes." I never knew them to reply " no " to
this question under any circumstances, and I believe they
say "yes " with a mental reservation that it is a long way
off, but will probably come in the course of time. I have
gone out sometimes two hours after such a conversation,
and not the slightest trace of dawn was discernible, nor
would there be for hours afterward. Such things are
annoying to one who would like to arrange the hours of
travel and departing upon a more reasonable schedule,
but it will never do to break in upon the time-honored
customs of these people, for you will involve yourself in
greater difficulties thereby than by submitting.
The day of Captain Berry' s arrival at Eeteetlan there
also came from Nishne Kolymsk a Russian named
"Wanker," who agreed to take me to that city for the
sum of fifty roubles. I did not like the fellow's appear-
ance. His eyes were too close together, and then he had
a general hang-dog look that would give him away in the
company of saints. I knew he was a liar, because he said
he could read, and when I handed him a letter in the
Russian language from the Russian Consul in San Fran-
cisco he read it all through with the deepest interest
and most intense satisfaction depicted upon his counte-
nance, occasionally smiling over some official pleasantry
150 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
of the Consul's, or stumbling over a particularly hard
word, and all the time held the letter upside down. I
righted it once, but he immediately turned it again, with
a look as much as to say, "I always prefer to read my
letters that way." He then returned the letter after
having carefully inspected the black border and the
watermark on the paper, and said it was " All right ;" an
opinion for which I was duly grateful. He could talk
fluently with Constantine though, and advised me to
take him along to drive my dogs and as an interpreter.
The interpreting was all well enough as far as they were
concerned, and the only difficulty was in understanding
Constantine or making him understand me. He was not
a youth gifted with much understanding in any language,
but at the same time he was of some benefit to me.
As an instructor of the Russian language he proved a
total failure. Knowing I had to be for several months
among the Russians, I thought that by gaining the start
by a few words before I came plump into their country
I would acquire an advantage, so I asked Constantine
what the Russians said for "yes." "They say 'yes,' "
he replied. This was easy enough to remember, so I went
to the next word. "What do they say for 'no?' " I
asked. "Why, they say 'no.' " This seemed a most re-
markable coincidence, but certainly convenient, and I
went on to something harder. "What does a Rus-
sian man say when he is hungry and wants something to
eat?" "Oh, sir, he says he wants something to eat."
Now, this was a little more than I could stand, and I im-
mediately took a recess. I saw that the poor fellow had
no idea how he spoke what little English he knew. He
did not translate it from one language to the other, but
had merely learned as a parrot would learn, only with
ACROSS SIBERIA. 151
greater fluency, for he seemed to have the well-known
facility of the Kussians in acquiring foreign languages,
having in two months and a half on ship-board learned
sufficient to be of considerable use there, as well as to our
party on shore. En route he drove my sled, but we went
very slowly, for the dogs I had were hastily bought after
I had made up my mind to this trip, and proved a sorry
lot. I found that the natives had not invariably picked
out their best dogs to sell me, but, on the contrary, had
chosen the poorest always, and when I happened to get a
good dog it was because the one from whom I bought it
had no poor ones in his lot.
Constantine always examined the dogs as an expert,
and had a way of running his hand along the dog's back-
bone, and if it did not cut his finger he pronounced it a fine
dog. He always asked if the dog had been trained as a
leader, and seemed to have a most insatiable appetite for
leaders. I don' t know what dogs he expected to pull the
sled in case he got all the leaders he wanted. He was a
most faithful loser of articles belonging to his team, and
I had to buy nearly a complete set of harness for him, as
well as a brake and a whip at every village where we
stopped. But when he came to me at one village to buy
a whip, after I had just bought him one, not half an hour
previously, I closed the market for whips. He said he
might lose the first one and then the second would come
handy. The second night of our journey we halted at
the village of Ynedlin, near which the Vega wintered in
1878-9. We were entertained at the house of the chief,
the largest house I had yet seen. The sleeping portion
was about 30 feet long by 12 wide, and 7 feet high. Here
was plenty of room and fresh air. It was here that
Wanker promised to meet me the night of my arrival,
152 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
and hurry me on to Mshne Kolymsk without any delay
en route, merely expressing his fear that I could not
stand the cold and rapid travelling. I was forced to
remain at this house four nights, partially detained
by stormy weather, and with the hope that Wanker
might forget himself, and actually keep his appointment
within a day or two. It was fortunate for me that the
house was such a pleasant one, since I had to remain
there so long. I had an opportunity now to witness their
mode of life more closely than ever before, and it was
here that I saw for the first time many of those disgusting
customs that became so familiar to me afterward. They
had plenty of walrus meat, and also of reindeer meat,
and we lived well according to Tchouktchi ideas.
No matter how early you may awaken in the morning
you will always find the mistress of the household already
up — that is, her position changed from reclining to sitting,
and as soon as she observes that you are really awake
she hands you a few small pieces of meat ; not much, only
an ounce or two perhaps, but it steadies your nerves till
breakfast time — that is, until the others wake up. Then
she goes into the adjoining apartment, which is merely an
enclosure to keep the dogs away from the household
stores, and after fifteen or twenty minutes of pounding
and chopping returns with the breakfast. A large flat
wooden tray is placed on the floor, and the landlady,
dropping off her clothes, takes her position at one end, a
position inelegantly but accurately described as " squat-
ting." The family and their guests gather around the
board on either side, lying flat on their stomachs, with
their heads toward the breakfast and their feet out, so
that a bird's-eye view of the table and guests would look
something like an immense beetle. The first course is
ACROSS SIBERIA. 153
some frozen weeds mixed with seal oil and eaten with,
small portions of fresh blubber, which the lady of the
honse cuts with a large chopping-knife. The approved
method of eating this food is to take a piece of the blub-
ber and place it somewhere on the pile of weeds and then
press as mnch as yon can gather between yonr thnmb
and the three adjoining fingers into a mass, which will, if
yon are lucky, stick together until you get it into your
mouth. The man with the biggest thumb has the best
chance here. One poor fellow whom I saw further up the
coast who had lost his right hand and the thumb of his
left had to be fed by his wife. The next course is walrus
meat. This is also cut up by the presiding lady and is
served with no stinting hand. At this portion of the
meal the one who can swallow the largest piece without
chewing has the advantage, and the only way to get even
with him is to keep one piece in your mouth and two in
your hand all the time. After this joint has been thor-
oughly discussed there comes a large piece of walrus
hide, which has a small portion of blubber attached to it
and the hair still on the outside. When the meat is rot-
ten the hair can be easily scraped off, but otherwise it is
eaten with the rest of the hide. This hide is about an
inch thick and very tough, so that it is absolutely impos-
sible to chew it, or, rather, to affect it by chewing. Even
the dogs will chew perhaps for half a day upon a small
piece of walrus hide hanging from a bag of meat, and fail
to detach it. This is, therefore, cut into very small slices
by the hostess and finishes the meal. It is really the
most palatable dish of the meal, and furnishes some-
thing for the stomach to act upon, that generally occu-
pies its attention till the following meal ; but it is astonish-
iag how easily a meat diet is digested and how soon
154 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
one's appetite returns after having gorged at such a
meal.
When forced to lie over on account of storms or some
notion of Wanker's, and with nothing to do and nothing
to read, it seemed to me that all I did was to lie on my
back and watch for indications of the next meal. It was
all there was to break the monotony, unless my pipe
needed cleaning. This was always a welcome task, for
by due carefulness I could generally make it last for half
a day. There are usually two meals a day in a well pro-
vided Tchouktchi household— the breakfast just described
and dinner, which comes on late in the evening. The
dinner is almost identical in form with the breakfast,
except that there is most always some hot cooked meat
that follows the course of walrus hide. Sometimes the
second course at breakfast or dinner may be frozen seal
or reindeer meat, but the first and third courses are inva-
riable, unless changed by force of circumstances beyond
the control of the householder. Beside these two meals
there is always a similar service to any guest who may
arrive during the day from a distance, and all present
share his luncheon with him, and not infrequently beat
him out, unless he watches closely and keeps himself well
provided. I speak feelingly of this matter, for often
have I had a luncheon put before me, and devoured by
those who had, perhaps, but just finished a meal, while I
politely lingered so as not to appear too ravenous. I got
over such trifling finally, and could take my place at the
board with full confidence that I would get at least my
share of what was going.
The evening, after dinner, is often devoted to games.
They do not play chess or billiards ; but we used to see
who could walk the farthest on his hands, with his body
&
2
^:fflm,m.
ACROSS SIBERIA. I57
held horizontally from the hips, or upon his knees, while
his feet were held in his hands behind him. Or perhaps
the lights were extinguished, and some one played upon
the drum, or yarar, and sang or chanted a most lugubri-
ous melody, or would pass crescendo from an almost im-
perceptible sound into the loudest noise possible, accom-
panying the drum with a howl like a bear at bay, the most
frightful noise he could make ; and it did sound prodigious
in the dark. During this time the landlord would oc-
casionally shout Ay-Tiek, ay-7ie7c, which seemed to in-
spire the drummer to renewed exertion. The drum is a
wooden hoop, over which is tightly drawn a thin mem-
brane from the skin of the reindeer. It has a handle
on one side, and is beaten with a small bit of whalebone.
This drumming never ceases from the moment the lights
are out until the concert is over, which is generally after
about two hours and a half. We had a concert the first
night at Ynedlin, and during the performance I heard
Constantine breathing heavily and gasping, and occasion-
ally breaking out into groans and tears. This attracted
the attention of the performer, who stopped and asked if
he was sick. He groaned a " yes," and I thought I would
have to resort to my medical stores, consisting of pills and
bandages, but I did not know which to use, for upon
inquiry it transpired that he had only a broken heart.
He wanted to return to Tay-up-kine, the village near
Eeteetlan, where was an old woman, named At-tting-er,
who had grown-up children and grandchildren, and with
whom he, a lad of nineteen years, had fallen in love.
When asked what he was grieving for, he said " At-tung-
er," and after that I felt relieved, for I did not believe
he would die of his broken heart.
During the entire journey this same scene was repeated
158 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
every time the yarar was brought out, and as soon as
the lights were restored he appeared just as cheerful as
if nothing disagreeable had ever occurred to him. I be-
lieve he was frightened, for the noise was at times most
fiendish and harrowing, and it was at these portions of
the music that he was most affected. It was the best
assurance the player could have of the effectiveness of his
performance. There were two girls about fifteen years
of age in this household, one the daughter of my host
and the other some relation, but I could never make out
exactly what. The old man often tried to explain it to
me by using the fingers of one hand, which he named,
and showed that Tay-tin-con-ne was the same relation to
his daughter Mam-mak that his thumb was to his middle
finger. But there is where I always fell out. I never
could satisfy myself as to the kinship of his fingers. Occa-
sionally during the day or evening these girls used to
dance, taking their places side by side as if on the stage
for a double clog, and, accompanying themselves with
guttural sounds that it is impossible to describe, exe-
cuted in unison fantastic contortions and gyrations some-
what similar to the Indians of North America. Their
costume was the usual evening dress of the country, and
consisted simply of a string of beads around the neck
and a narrow breech-cloth of seal skin. This was an
accomplishment I found had been acquired by all the
children along the coast, and such entertainments were
not rare.
The 13th of January I moved to the next village, start-
ing in the dark at three o'clock in the morning, and
arriving at our destination before noon. There were two'
other sleds beside mine, which belonged to a man from
Onman, who had with him his wife and son, a young man
ACROSS SIBERIA. 159
of about twenty-two years, with yellow hair and light
hazel eyes, the first blond I had seen with these people.
I afterwards saw another, a woman, at Enmukki, but
they are very rare occurrences. The Onman man entered
the house at this place, and after some conversation with
the occupants came out and told me we would have to go
on to Onman, which would take all night, as they had no
dog food here. They gave us a luncheon of walrus meat,
and I concluded to stay, preferring that my dogs should
rest without food than work without. I thought, too,
that I could get dog food by paying well for it, and after
the others had left found I was not mistaken — that it was
only a ruse common with these people when they want to
get rid of undesirable guests. But I guess the Onman
people made the same discovery, for in half an hour they
returned and stayed with us all night. Here, too, I had
to wait four days, looking for Wanker or clear weather.
These houses along the coast are all so many hotels for
the accommodation of those travelling to and fro. At
East Cape are certain articles which they can procure by
trading, and at Mshne Kolymsk are others, so that they
go from one end of the line to the other, a distance of
about 1,500 miles, as they are compelled to follow the
coast in all its tortuous windings. At East Cape they can
get Henry rifles and cartridges, as well as American
knives, tobacco and calico ; while at Nishne Kolymsk
they get Circassian tobacco, a cheap but very strong
article, brass smoking pipes, bear spears, and such arti-
cles. The stock at East Cape is left by the American
whalers, who have their agents among the natives there,
and that at Nishne Kolymsk is in the hands of the
Russian traders, who, during the latter part of the month
of February, hold a fair near there on the river Anui,
160 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
pronounced Ar-noo-ee. The natives pay nothing for
their entertainment or for feeding their dogs, but they
expect much from any white strangers who may happen
to pass their way. If the native traveller has tobacco or
beads, and his host wants some, he gives it to him ; but
that is not paying for his board and lodging. He would
do the same if he received nothing in return. While at
Peelkan, the second station, at the mouth of the bay of
that name, I saw many natives who were returning from a
trip to East Cape. They told me that Wanker did not
intend to come along for some time yet, that he was trad-
ing along the coast. This was discouraging, and I deter-
mined to proceed to Koliutchin village as soon as possible,
and get along as well as I could.
CHAPTER XIV.
ON THE EOAD.
Sradnia Koltmsk, N. S.,
Mwch 9th, 1882.
Theke were places on the road, beyond Wankaramen
especially, where a guide was almost a necessity, unless
short trips were made in the daylight only and when the
coast line could be unmistakably distinguished. I knew I
could easily find people going from one village to another
until I reached Wankaramen, but from there to North
Cape was a long stretch without villages, and it required
two or three sleeps upon the snow to reach the village at
North Cape, or Dairkijpean, as the natives call it. It
would not be easy to find company there. There was,
however, an old man who came to Peelkan on his way
back to his house at Wankaramen who said he would
take me on from there. He wanted me to give him some
biscuit to eat, as his teeth were not equal to the con-
test with frozen walrus meat ; and when he showed me
the teeth I agreed with him. On the right side of his
upper jaw the teeth were perfect to the middle front
tooth, and the lower jaw had the same arrangement on the
left side of his mouth, so that when it was closed they fit
perfectly and shut up like a pair of scissors ; but it must
have been perplexing when there was anything to be
chewed. It was a long journey across the mouth of the
bay to Koliutchin Island, and my dogs were not equal to
161
162 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
the emergency, so when night came on I halted and built
a snow house. The natives who had started with us
reached the village that night, and were much alarmed
for our safety when they found we did not get in during
the night. Their anxiety was increased when the follow-
ing day brought a snow-storm, which shut out the island
from view, and left us as they supposed without any-
thing to guide us. When we started in the morning I
cautioned Constantine to keep faithfully in the tracks of
the sleds that preceded us, as they were but faintly dis-
cernible under the falling snow. He told me his leader
was a good one, and knew how to keep the road. For
awhile I trusted to the dog's instinct, but when I found
the wind upon my back instead of nearly directly in front
of me, as it should have been, I began to doubt it, and
asked Constantine where Koliutchin Island was. He
pointed straight ahead, as I expected, but I had taken the
bearing of the island by my pocket compass when we
halted the night before, and on again regarding it I
showed my driver that we were going almost exactly in
the opposite direction.
I then took charge of the course myself, and after about
an hour heard the barking and quarrelling of dogs in a
team. I could not see them, but I shouted, and soon two
sleds came up that had been sent out to look for us.
The drivers were glad to have found us, and said they had
been worried all night, thinking we were wandering around
on the ice. I told them, however, that we were com-
fortably housed and that I knew where Koliutchin was,
at the same time pointing in the proper direction. Then
I showed them my compass, and as the island happened
to be just magnetic north of us it appeared all the more
wonderful to them. They imagined that it always pointed
ON THE ROAD. 163
in the direction yon wanted to go. While at Kolintchin
Wanker came up, being only eleven days behind, bnt I
felt greatly relieved when I saw him. We subsequently
moved to Wankaramen, and proceeded on our journey
with greater celerity than before, but not fast enough to
satisfy one who felt so entirely dependent upon one man,
and he thoroughly unreliable and bad. All along the
route the natives, when an opportunity offered, cautioned
me against him and said he meant no good by me. They
begged me to return to Eeteetlan, and offered to take me
there. The only thing that I was afraid of was that
Wanker would get up in the night and run off with his
team, leaving me high and dry on the beach. But I kept
a close watch on him all the time.
In the daytime the natives would have warned me if he
attempted to leave, and at night I always slept in the
same house with him and would awaken at the slightest
noise. During the journey I never trusted myself beyond
pistol shot of his sled, and I think he knew I was watch-
ing him. At first he used to take advantage of my lack
of knowledge of the Tchouktchi language to say things
for the entertainment of the savages at my expense, and
one day shouted at me in a most disrespectful manner.
Then I spoke to him in good sound English. He did not
understand what I said, but he knew what I meant, and,
assuring me that he only wanted to tie my shoe-string,
was ever afterward more considerate in his manner toward
me. From Wankaramen to North Cape the weather was
intensely cold, and the whole party, native and white, for
there were three natives' sleds with us, suffered from
frost-bites, though not of a serious nature. We found
plenty of drift-wood at several points along the coast, and
halted to make tea and cook some meat. This I found
11
1G4 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
took the raw edge off of the cold, and made travelling and
sleeping without shelter much more endurable. From
North Cape to Oogarkin there were villages at intervals
of from five to thirty miles. From Oogarkin to Erktreen,
a native village of nineteen houses, near Cape Shelagskoi,
there were no houses, and we slept three nights on the
snow. Drift-wood was plentiful, and in ordinary weather
camping out would not have been as disagreeable as might
be supposed. We found several people at Enmaty, near
Oogarkin, who were on their way to Mshne Kolymsk,
and on the morning of February 8th eight sleds, drawn
by ninety -three dogs, started. It was a brilliant sight, or
would have been if you could have seen it ; but the start
was at four o'clock in the morning, about three hours and
a half before daylight. Some of the sleds had gaudy
calico storm-coats thrown over them, and the harness of
several teams was trimmed with red. One man had sev-
eral small bells attached to his harness, but I never heard
a sound from them, and doubt if they had tongues. I
believe they were dumb bells and intended solely for orna-
ment.
It was a pleasant day at first, but during the afternoon
a storm of wind and snow sprang up from the direction
of our line of march, and when we halted at night it was
blowing a gale, a genuine poorga, which continued
throughout the night and the following day. When I
lay down to sleep I sought shelter behind a sled, but soon
had to leave it, because I found myself nearly suffocated
by the weight of snow on top of me. Then I noticed that
the natives, more wise than I, had lain down on the crest
of the hill and were free from snow. Travelling the next
day was simply torture, but it would be equally bad to
sit still out of doors, so we kept on. The night was a
ON THE ROAD. 165
pleasant one and we slept well. The next halt was npon
the rocky coast not a great distance from Shelagskoi, and
a huge cavern in the face of the cliff afforded small pro-
tection from the wind, but made a most picturesque
camping place. The following day we reached Erktreen
about two o'clock, and right glad we were to get there,
for a frightful poorga was raging and the dogs could
scarcely make any headway against it. There were plenty
of houses here and but little food. In fact, in the house
where I slept we fed the occupants, instead of eating
their provisions. The next stretch was a long one, and we
slept four nights in the snow. We had expected to re-
provision our sleds at Erktreen, and were much disap-
pointed at finding so little food. "We were, therefore, on
short rations, and as a consequence very cold, for nothing
seems to defy the north wind like a full stomach. The
natives were all very kind to me. They knew that
Wanker was not helping me any more than he should,
so they each had something for "Kelley," as is my
Tchouktchi name. I believe I fared better than any one
else in the party. About noon-time of the third day out
we reached Rowchooan, as it is called by the Tchouk-
tchis, or Bassarika, by which name it is known to the
Russians.
Here is a deserted village of five log houses, which at
one time constituted a village of Russian trappers. Here
we found a large quantity of bear meat and dried fish for
dog food which they had cached on their way down the
coast, and, taking a good supply upon our sleds, we
gorged like genuine savages that night, and slept soundly
and warm. As night approached on the day following
we were near the native village of D'lardlowran, the Bar-
ranno of the Russians. Three of the sleds halted on the
166 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
beach at dark, while the sled to which I was attached and
two others started to make a short cut across land to the
village. One of the natives with us lives at that place
and was anxious to get home after an absence of two
months and a half. But without landmarks on the bare
waste of snow, and no coast line to guide us, even he had
to give up the search though less than three miles from
home, and we lay down in the snow to wait for daylight.
But before dawn came the worst poorga I ever encoun-
tered, and when we started in the morning we could see
less distance ahead than when we halted in the dark. It
was a terrible struggle, that little march of about two
miles and a half. The wind blew directly in our faces
and drove the sharp particles of hard frozen snow against
the eye-balls and cheeks, so that it was impossible to
look to windward for more than a hasty glance. The
dogs could not face the storm and lay down in the har-
ness, so that we had to go ahead and drag them along,
while we waded painfully through snow nearly waist
deep. One sled was soon left behind, while Wile-dote,
the native of the neighboring village, and Wanker and I
floundered on through the storm.
At last we reached a hillside swept by the wind, and
found sled-tracks which Wile-dote recognized as the right
trail, and we trotted along merrily until the sleds were
caught by the wind and swept over a precipice. I saw
Wile-dote and his team disappear over the edge of the
cliff into a cloud of whirling snow, and knew that in a
second we must go too. I could do nothing but close my
eyes and set my teeth when I felt myself in the air and
falling, I knew not where. Fortunately it was a fall of
but about twenty feet to a snow bank, down which the
dogs, the sled and I rolled to the bottom, while I saw
ON THE ROAD. 167
Wanker, who had been sitting on the other side of the
sled with his back to the cliff, shot over my head and
reach the bottom first. I knew no one had been hnrt,
for the snow was very soft and we were almost bnried by
the drift before we conld regain onr feet, and I conld not
help laughing at the ridiculous figure poor Wanker cut
as he passed over my head, rolled up in a little ball, and
desperately grasping his brake. He looked like a witch
riding on her broomstick. Wile-dote' s sled was broken,
and, falling on his leg, caused a slight but not very painful
contusion. We then began to look around to find some
way out of this pit, but found it surrounded by a high
wall of rock and snow, except one narrow drift that led
again to the top of the hill. We plunged along as well
as we could, but could only make a few yards' advance at
a time, for the dogs had to be dragged along by main
force. Time and time again we were compelled to throw
ourselves down in the snow and rest for ten or fifteen
minutes before making further exertion. Once again we
were blown off the hill, but this time into a valley, which
Wile-dote recognized as the road to the village, not more
than half a mile away.
We now moved along more rapidly and soon found the
coast, and a short turn to the right brought us directly
into the houses before we could see them. Several times
during the morning I had to remove from my face a per-
fect mould or mask of frozen snow half an inch thick, and
my nose, cheeks, chin and forehead were badly frozen.
My companions fared no better. Three of Wile-dote' s dogs
perished during the storm, and I found upon looking at
my watch, after entering the house, that we had been more
than seven hours upon the road. The other sled got in
toward night, but the three that halted on the beach did
168 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
not overtake us until the second day after we left D'lard-
lowran. At this village we found four Russians from
Mshne Kolymsk, who were much interested in the recital
of our adventures during the morning. The next morn-
ing we again set out upon our journey, three of the Rus-
sians accompanying us. Wanker put me on the sled of
one of these people, and right glad was I of the change,
for now I felt sure that I would reach my destination.
This man looked like an honest and an intelligent man,
though he could not read, and said so. That night we
halted at a deserted hut half filled with snow, but it was
a sufficient shelter from a poorga that was raging at the
time, and ever so much better than sleeping out of doors.
Indeed, it was cheerful and cosey, with a fire blazing in the
middle of the hut and a little of the smoke escaping
through a hole in the roof, but most of it pervading the
apartment. The tea-kettle hung over the flame, and a
large pot of reindeer meat was cooking on one side of the
fire, while we ate frozen fish which my new driver pulled
from among the rafters. While we waited for tea my
new Russian friends sang a pretty little chorus, and I
slept dreaming of home and feeling more at home than I
had for weeks.
I had at last reached the borders of civilization, and
had no longer to crawl at night into the huts of the sav-
ages, and yet I could not forget how often I had been so
glad to crawl into those same dirty hovels to escape from
storms and hunger.
The next day we reached quite a large deserted village,
and Wanker here told me that the next day we would
reach his house and that there we would have to wait for
Constantine, who was four days behind us, the sled he was
with and one other having been separated from us during
ON THE ROAD. 169
a poor g a the first day out from Erktreen. I felt no un-
easiness about him, for there was a Tchouktchi and a
Russian with him who would take good care of him, and
I knew they had plenty of food. In fact, it was the
heavy load of food that caused them to fall behind. I
told Wanker that I would rather go on to Mshne Ko-
lymsk, as there was a great deal I wanted to attend to
which I could do before Constantine arrived. But Wan-
ker would not listen to it, and insisted that I should re-
main at his house. I poured my complaint into the ear
of my driver that day, and, though he understood little of
what I said, he did seize the main point, which was that
I stayed at Wanker's against my will and preferred to go
to Mshne Kolymsk. He said " Da, da" and meant
"yes," and here our conversation ended. He delivered
me at Wanker's that night and departed early next morn-
ing. I failed to shake Wanker's determination during
the day, but was equally determined to wait but one day
longer, though he said the only people in Nishne who
could read were away and would not be there for more
than a week. This seemed likely and I began to waver,
but the day following my good friend came early with a
stranger, and I felt certain that my hour of deliverance
was near at hand. And, sure enough, the stranger read
my letter from the Consul, and told me I should go along
with him. Wanker got very red in the face, and submit-
ted with bad grace to an arrangement that I was certain
did not please him. But I saw that the quiet stranger
had some power and could enforce his will. Glad enough
was I to go away, and with such a kind and considerate
conductor, but I was overpowered when I found a covered
sled in waiting to take me like a prince in triumph to my
destination. It was a bitter cold day, and I was pleased
170 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
when we halted at a village half-way to the town to get
some hot tea, and, as nsual, with it frozen fish.
Here the whole village had turned out to receive me,
and the men stood in line with their heads bared and
bowing as I passed them into the house. There was a
friendly crowd here, also, but, though of my own race,
I could only talk with them in the language of the sav-
ages, and our conversation was consequently limited to
my very meagre knowledge of the Tchouktchi tongue,
for they all seemed perfectly familiar with it and to speak
it and their own language with equal fluency. My new
friend took me to his house and did everything in his
power to entertain me, and assist in carrying out my
plans. I found that he was a Cossack, and acting comman-
der during the absence of that official in Sradnia Kolymsk.
I managed to make myself understood, and he told me
that at Sradnia I would find some one who spoke French,
and that he would send me to that place with a Cossack,
who would take me in three or four days, while alone I
would be a week or ten days en route. After Constantine
arrived, and I finished my business at Mshne, I started
for Sradnia Kolymsk with my Cossack guide, and bade
good-by to some of the kindest people I ever met. All
seemed equally anxious to do something for me, and my
landlord, who had delivered me out of the hands of the
Philistines, seemed really sad at parting. I had been at
his house four days, and during that time he had devoted
himself entirely to me, trying to make amends for the ill-
conduct of my travelling companion, Wanker, who, by the
bye, had told the Russians we met at D'lardlowran that
he had brought me to the Kolyma because I was big and
strong, and he was going to keep me at his house until
the winter was past, and then I would be a good hand to
OX THE ROAD.
171
catch fish for him. But my engagements did not permit
of my remaining nntil the fishing season arrived. At
Nishne Kolymsk I first heard of the loss of the Jeannette,
and that some of her people had survived ; but, though I
could get along surprisingly well with the common every -
8RADUIA KOLYMSK.
day affairs, considering that I could not speak the lan-
guage of these people, I got a very distorted account of
the Jeannette affair. This was partially owing to my
being unable to understand them, and partially because
they had not heard a correct account of the mournful
occurrence.
CHAPTEE XV.
MIDDLE KOLYMSK.
Skadnia Kolymsk, N. S.,
March 11th, 1882.
I beached Sradnia Kolymsk on Sunday the 5th of March,
and was met in the street by a fine-looking old gentle-
man in a handsome uniform, who addressed me in French,
and, informing me that he was the Prefet de Police
for the district, invited me to his house. It sounded
most delightfully to hear once more a familiar Christian
language, and not to be compelled to converse with in-
telligent people in the language of the savage. At this
house I met also M. Kotcheroffski, formerly Prefet of the
District of Werchojansk, but who had just arrived to
relieve my host, M. de V arowa, as the latter informed me,
at the same time stating that he would start for Yakoutsk
in a few days, and extending me an invitation to accom-
pany him. I gladly accepted his offer, knowing that
thus I could travel faster than if alone, and more than
make up the time lost in waiting. In the meantime he
offered to send a special courier to Yakoutsk with my
despatches, which would gain five days on the fastest
journey I could make. This offer I also accepted, and at
once set to work preparing my papers for the courier.
At Sradnia Kolymsk, as at Mshne, I met with nothing
but kindness. All seemed anxious to aid the unfortunate
mariners who were thrown upon these ice-bound shores.
172
MIDDLE EOLYMSK. 175
Sradnia, or Middle Kolymsk, is a Russian settlement
of about 500 inhabitants, including Russians, Yakouts,
and a few Tchouktchis. The houses are all built of hewn
logs, are but one story high, and the windows are glazed
with blocks of transparent ice. Some of the houses have
windows of glass, but these are always much broken and
mended, so that seen from the outside they look like the
stained-glass windows of a church. The most conspicu-
ous building there, as in all the little Russian towns, is
the church edifice, which is of Oriental architecture, with
a dome surmounted by a cross and exceedingly florid in
its style of architecture. Adjoining the church, and
within the same enclosure, is a small wooden tower sur-
rounded by a block-house, which was built by the first
settlers of Sradnia as a means of defence against the
savage Yakouts and Tchouktchis. This town is irregu-
larly built and extends over a considerable area of ground,
the Government buildings being situated about a mile
from the centre. By Government buildings is meant
merely the storehouses for grain and bread and for the
skins which are received for taxes. These buildings are
of logs, with great heavy doors and padlocks about the size
of an ordinary valise, while the key is a load of itself.
I should imagine that a Keeper of the Imperial Keys, if
there is such an office in Russia, would have to be a man
trained in athletic exercises from his youth up to accept
of such an appointment. When a door there is locked it
is locked, and there is no mistaking the fact.
I paid a visit to the storehouses while in Sradnia to
witness the process of turning over the property to the
new Prefet or Ispravnik, as he is termed, but it was a
very uninteresting process and the weather so intensely
cold that I did not stay long. A gang of laborers, not in
176 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
their shirt sleeves, as I had been accustomed to seeing
them at home, but heavily clad in skin clothing, were
running around with bundles on their shoulders, and
dumping them upon one of the platforms of a pair of im-
mense balance scales, such as I thought had long since
become obsolete. The beam was suspended in the middle,
and had platforms a yard square, hung by the corners to
either end of the beam. On one side were piled bundles of
skins or grain in cowskin bags, and on the other were
heaped up big iron weights, about the size of a 100 lb.
shell, with handles. It looked as if the articles to be
weighed were exactly counterbalanced by the proper
amount of iron weights, and then they guessed how much
iron there was. When I thought of a city weigher in New
York having to manoeuvre such an outfit as this, it oc-
curred to me that the position would be no sinecure. I saw
another curious balance here. A sort of combination of the
beam with the steel-yard, used for weighing small arti-
cles. It has a scoop suspended from one end of a graduated
steel rod, in which is placed the article to be weighed. On
the other end of the rod is a fixed weight, and the balance
is obtained by sliding the rod along the ring that holds it
in suspension. I had been used to seeing the weight
moved, and it was a novelty to see the whole beam sliding
along instead. The rod is round and graduated on many
parts of its circumference, so that by moving the weight
and turning the rod its limit of usefulness is extended or
diminished.
Pacing up and down near the scales with a gun upon
his shoulder was a Cossack, who looked strangely,
bundled up in furs and under arms. Near the beam
stood the new Ispravnik, wrapped up so that nothing
could be seen of him except his eyes, I did not blame
MIDDLE KOLYMSK
177
Mm for bundling np as much as possible, as I don't re-
member ever having felt the cold more keenly than during
the first three days I was in Sradnia, and M. de Yarowa,
the retiring Is-
pravnik, told me
that he had never
known it to be so
cold during his so-
journ there as at
this time, and that
indeed the whole
winter, that is the
months of January
and February, had
been regarded by
the inhabitants of
the town as most
unusual. Unfor-
tunately there is no thermometer in any of those towns
north and east of Yakoutsk, where observations of the
weather would be so interesting. I have no doubt that the
thermometer would have marked an unusally low tempera-
ture on the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th of February by the Eng-
lish calendar in Northeastern Siberia. There was not a
breath of wind stirring and the sky was cloudless, all the
conditions being favorable for cold weather. On the 9th
of February the sky was overcast and there was a very
great rise in the temperature, and on the 10th we had
a snow-storm. The dwellings in Sradnia, as well as
throughout that part of Siberia, consist usually of three
rooms, and are heated by an open fireplace built of poles,
which extend up through the roof and form a low chim-
ney. The poles are covered with mud to protect them
COSSACK FORT.
178
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
from the flames, and the wood is stood on end in the fire-
place, resting against the back. There is an almost un-
limited supply of wood in the country, and it is of an
excellent quality for fuel, as well as for all the purposes
YAKOUT FISHERMEN.
of building. It is easily cut and split, and makes a brill-
iant flame, and an abundance of glowing coals. On this
same fireplace the cooking for the establishment is carried
on, apparently with equal skill, by the men and women.
The culinary arrangements are, however, of the simplest
MIDDLE EOLYMSK. 179
character, the staples of food being fish, rye bread and
tea.
All the lakes and rivers abonnd with most excellent fish,
and the poorer classes eat nothing else. My observations
here have led me to doubt the brain-producing character
of a fish diet, or else that the fish here are of the right
sort for that purpose. I can, however, attest the excel-
lent quality of the fish, especially raw and frozen. In
that case the skin is stripped off and long slices cut longi-
tudinally from the fish, and eaten with or without salt, as
the taste or means of those who eat may dictate. When
eaten thus it is called by the Russians " struganina"
and by the Yakouts " tung bullok." When cooked it is
boiled, fried, baked or made into pie or biscuit. Reindeer
meat is also eaten by those who can afford it, unless rich
enough to eat beef, which they prefer, though why I
could never discover, for the meat of the reindeer is much
more delicate and tender, and has a peculiarly delicious
flavor, probably derived from the fragrant moss that con-
stitutes its food. It is cheap enough to satisfy the most
economical housekeeper, a fine fat buck, entire, costing at
Xishne Kolymsk only three roubles — that is, a dollar
and a half — and at Sradnia five roubles. The meat of
the reindeer is always excellent, while the beef is usually
coarse grained and tough. At Nishne and Sradnia beef is
more expensive than reindeer, at Werchojansk they cost
about the same, while at Yakoutsk reindeer meat is the
most expensive, and is only exceeded in price by the
horse, which is a luxury only to be indulged in by the
rich. It is a luxury, I believe, chiefly prized by the
Yakouts, though I understand that it is served at the
restaurants in Yakoutsk to those who desire it. Break-
fast here consists of bread and tea, with perhaps frozen or
180 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
dried fish, and later in the day meat, sonp and tea, and
in the evening meat or fish and tea.
It is impossible to imagine what these people would do
without tea. It is the universal beverage, and they drink
from four to fifteen cups at one meal, sometimes with
milk and sometimes with sugar. The sugar is not put
into the cup with the tea — it is too precious for that — but
a lump is served to each person, and as he sips his tea he
nibbles at the lump which is his portion for the meal. It
would strike a New Yorker as curious to see the tea
brought in upon a waiter, with one plate filled with lumps
of sugar and another with lumps of milk or cream, but
such is the prevailing Siberian fashion. When I would
start out for a journey my provisions would be arranged
in bags — one bag for sugar, another for tea, another for
milk, and so on. At Sradnia Kolymsk I saw several
political exiles — Socialists, nine in all — who are sentenced
for various terms. There were also two at Nishne, one a
Socialist and the other a Pole who had been implicated
in political intrigues inimical to the Imperial Government.
His sentence had originally been for twenty -five years at
Ahlokminsk, between Yakoutsk and Irkutsk, but one
day, in a fit of indignation at the Government, he gave
expression to his anger by spitting upon a portrait of his
late Imperial Majesty, and was sent to the most distant*
outpost of the Government in Siberia. I found him a
very pleasant old gentleman, of polished manners and
education, entirely distinct from the people with whom
he is at present thrown ; but he has grown gray and aged
since he left his home in Warsaw, and says he feels
almost equally at home in Siberia. It was rather difficult
to talk with him, as he only remembered a few words in
French, though he spoke German fluently, but I didn't.
MIDDLE KOLYMSK. 181
However, by an ingenious intermingling of English,
French, German, Eussian and Tchouktchi we managed
to understand each other passably well.
I visited the Socialists at their houses in Sradnia, and
found most of them pretty much the kind of people I
had imagined — a sort of intelligent lunatics. But there
were exceptions. There were gentlemen whom I could
not imagine guilty of an evil thought, and these I found
were held in high esteem by the officers of the Govern-
ment who have them under their charge. They were all
interested in the American stranger, and seemed to
imagine an affinity between my countrymen and the
Socialists. They were much surprised when I told them
that their party was but poorly represented in the United
States, and that such as we had were foreigners ; that I
did not personally know of a single American Socialist.
There was one thing that struck me with considerable
force when my course was turned from the northern coast
of Siberia into the Kolyma Eiver. The second day of
my journey on that river I noticed, as we passed near the
shore, first higher grass than I had seen before, then a
short growth of bushes, then stunted shrubbery, and
afterward two solitary lonely trees standing side by side.
In the course of a few miles the trees became more numer-
ous along the banks of the river until I reached Wanker's
house, which is situated in a grove of trees thirty or more
feet high. I had not expected to see all this climatic
change in one day's travel. Before reaching his house
we stopped at a log house, or yarat, to get some tea. This
was the first inhabited house I had seen, and I regarded
it with due interest. There was but one room, with the
fireplace in the corner, on which was blazing a glorious
fire that made my frozen nose glow with the heat. There
12
1S2
ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
stood the steaming tea-kettle, and as we entered the lady
of the house, attired in a loose robe, not gathered in at
the waist but flowing from the shoulders half-way down
her leather boot-legs, cut some pieces of reindeer meat
from one of two carcasses that leaned against the wall
with the skins still covering them, and fried them in a
pan over the glowing coals. In the meantime a frozen
fish was cut into struganina and placed before us with
an additional plate of dried fish and some preserved cran-
INTERIOR OP A STAROSTA'S HOUSE.
berries, and afterwards the hot tea, that made the re-
mainder of my journey quite comfortable. While we
were partaking of the hospitality of the Russian natives
three sledge loads of Tchouktchis arrived, and were simi-
larly entertained. I thought it must be a considerable tax
upon the time and hospitality of those who live upon the
lines of travel to entertain so many guests, for no one
passes these houses without entering, and no one pays
anything for his entertainment. All the guests except-
MIDDLE EOLYMSK. 183
ing myself, even the Tchouktchis, crossed themselves
when they entered the house, as well as before and after
eating, and when they left. At Wanker' s house the en-
tire family crossed themselves in front of the pictures of
saints in one corner and bowed as they muttered their
prayers. Wanker, too, went through the same forms;
but not, I thought, sufficiently to make up for the time
he had lost in the Tchouktchi houses along the coast.
He spoke the Tchouktchi language perfectly, so that I
felt certain that he was at least a half-breed. He wore
their amulets to cure him when he was sick, and was with
them a skilful shaman, or medicine man. ISTo one could
excel him in the performance upon the drum, and yet all
these were laid aside at home, and he was apparently as
pious as any of his family. I never saw religion so uni-
versal as the Greek religion in Siberia.
Not only the Russian inhabitants but the Yakouts,
Tungusians, Lamoots and Tchouktchis who reside near
the settlements are all equally religious. It seemed to me
to be a most convenient religion, for it consisted, as far as
I could see, in crossing one's self and bowing before the
pictures and in fasting upon a fish diet where there was
scarcely anything but fish to eat. The most pious old
man I saw among them could scarcely restrain his anger
at some infringement of his orders one day until he had
finished his prayers. He then turned and opened upon
the offending head such a volley of — well, if not oaths,
they sounded as if they would have been when trans-
lated. It is a beautiful religion, at any rate, and abounds
in affectionate salutes. All these forms are particularly
dear to the Yakout, and never omitted, at least in the
presence of a white man. After prayers every one kisses
every one else three times — once on each cheek and once
184 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
on the mouth. This is universal — men, women and chil-
dren, servants and masters, soldiers and their commanding
officers. It is neither the ecstatic nor paroxysmal kiss,
nor yet the Platonic, but simply the kiss of devotion.
The entire household join in prayers, all standing before
the chromos of saints with metallic rays attached to their
heads in the most realistic fashion, and cross themselves
and bow in unison, unless some one particularly devout
prostrates himself upon the floor and kisses the planks in
the fervor of his religious zeal.
It was a beautiful sight to me to see the gray-haired
Prefet take the little Nanyah by the hand and lead her
before the family altar, where they stood side by side at
their devotions. When finished she would cross her dear
little hands and hold them suppliantly toward her com-
panion while he made the sign of the cross over her and
dropped his hard hand upon hers. Then she would
raise it to her lips and kiss it. This concluded the devo-
tions. It is a convenient religion for a lazy man, for of
the 365 days that compose the year nearly all are saints'
days or holidays, and no good Christian would work
upon a holy day. Were it not that the fish are so
abundant I fear these people would starve to death. I
never could make out the exact position occupied by
la petite Nanyah in the household at Sradnia. She
seemed to unite the duties of a plaything, a daughter and
a servant. I first saw her the day that I arrived at the
house of the Prefet. My attention had been attracted by
a brilliant costume of the Lamoots, and to show it to
better advantage the ever-useful Nanyah was called upon
as a lay figure. There was neither hesitation nor bold-
ness in her manner. She was simply showing the dress,
not herself. She had neither fear of the stranger nor
MIDDLE KOLYMSR. 185
hesitation to accommodate him by wearing this gaudy
savage costume. With her it was simply a pleasure to
please others. I was told that Nanyah was to be our
travelling companion to Yakoutsk ; that she was affianced
to an officer of the regiment stationed there, and this
would be the first time she had ever been away from
Sradnia Kolymsk. Her parents were dead, and she had
no near relative except a brother, a lad of about ten years,
who was to follow later in company with the traders on
their return to Yakoutsk, when the voyage could be made
at less expense. During my sojourn in Sradnia, as well as
in Mshne Kolymsk, I was frequently invited to partake of
the hospitality of some of the inhabitants. At all such
entertainments it seemed to be a principle with the host to
insist upon my drinking a glass of vodka, that is, diluted
alcohol, about every five minutes. At first I thought I
must submit myself to the customs of the country and
sustain myself as best I could, and the consequence was
that when dinner was over I had not the slightest idea
whether I had eaten anything or not, but was quite sure
that I had drank something. Later I found out that all
that was required was that you should sip the liquor, and
thus avoid the evil consequences of heavy drinking, and
governed my drinking accordingly. I learned that the
Russian rule is a glass of vodka before dinner, before each
plate, during each plate, after each plate, and after dinner
— that is all.
CHAPTER XVI.
APPK0ACHINO THE LENA.
" Like the breaking up of a hard winter " is an expres-
sion frequently used, but I doubt if any one knows what
"the breaking up of a hard winter" really is like unless
he has had the misfortune to travel in Northern Siberia
during the spring time. I thought I had seen hard win-
ters and pretty hard breakings up in the northern portion
of North America, but they were nothing like the affair in
this country. To get the real thing in all its force and
significance you must be near one of the great north flow-
ing rivers of Siberia about the time of the spring floods,
when whole districts are covered with water and swift
moving ice, and no land is to be seen for miles in any
direction, but occasional forests apparently growing right
up out of the water. To travel over roads where for hun-
dreds of yards your sled is entirely under water and you
only maintain a position upon it by half standing up and
clinging to the side pieces until the whole concern is
dumped into an unexpected hole — this is what you must
expect. You will have to make part of your journey on
horseback, perhaps, and over such roads and upon such
cattle as can be found nowhere else in the world. I refer
now to civilized Siberia, that which is governed by officers
appointed by the Czar. East of the district of the Ko-
lyma, which extends but a short distance beyond the
river which gives its name to the district and lies in about
186
APPROACHING THE LENA, 187
the 161st meridian east of Greenwich, is savage Siberia,
and nnder no control of the Russian Government. The
Tchouktchis have never been conquered. A pitched bat-
tle with them was the greatest success ever effected by the
Cossacks who occupied the land, though some of them
passed through the Tchouktchis' country along the north-
ern coast and by way of Behring Strait to the Anadyr be-
fore Behring entered the sea that bears his name. The
police district of the Kolyma is, therefore, the first one
coming from the East sees of civilization. My experience
had been so severe and distressing before I reached Nishne
Kolymsk that I felt that when I arrived there my troubles
would be ended, and the rest of the journey, though
carrying me entirely around the world before reaching
New York, would be comparatively comfortable and
easy, as it would be over regularly established post roads
of the Empire. And perhaps it may have been compara-
tively easy in a general way, but there were many pas-
sages of discomfort that would equal any of my previous
experiences. The great advantage I found was the in-
creased rapidity with which I could travel. There is no
such thing as comfort in Siberian journeys, except, per-
haps, in winter and over the more westerly roads.
I was fortunate in having as a companion on the journey
to "YYerchojansk M. de Yarowa, the ex-Chief of Police,
or Ispravnik, of the Kolyma district. We were accom-
panied by the little Nanyah and a Cossack, whose ser-
vices were required to take charge of our baggage and
have everything arranged as comfortably as possible when
we halted en route for meals or tea. This journey was
my first experience of post-road travel, and made in such
company it would be, of course, as rapid and agreeable as
possible. The stations where we were to change animals
188
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
were upon this route from sixty to two hundred and fifty
versts apart. (A verst, it should be remembered, is two-
thirds of a mile.) Where the stations are far apart there
are intervening houses, sometimes inhabited and some-
times mere shelters for travellers, where wood and ice are
found conveniently provided for the purpose of cooking
meat or tea. The use of tea on the road is universal in
Siberia, except in the savage Tchouktchis' land, where it
INTERIOR OF POVARNNIAR.
is impossible to obtain it ; and, though new to me, I soon
appreciated the advantages gained by its use. I never
approved of the use of alcoholic stimulants in Arctic jour-
neys, and in Northern America preferred the weak bouil-
lon obtained by boiling meat, the only method of cooking
known to the Esquimaux.
In Siberia I learned that tea is equally efficacious and
much more convenient ; for you can halt and boil a pot of
water for your tea and be under way again long before
APPROACHING THE LENA. 189
frozen meat would be even thoroughly thawed. These
intermediate resting places are called povarnniars (kitch-
ens), and when inhabited no time is lost in obtaining hot
water, for a good fire is always burning in the houses in
this thickly wooded country, and where uninhabited it
does not take much longer to get the pot boiling. Wood
is plentiful and of a superior quality for fuel, light and
easily ignited, but requiring almost constant replenishing.
The chimney is made of small poles which extend up-
ward through the roof from a raised fireplace, and are
plastered with mud to prevent ignition. The wood is
split into long, thin pieces, and loosely piled on end
against the back of the chimney ; the strong draught soon
gives you a roaring fire. These povarnniars are found
usually about thirty or forty versts apart, and were
generally very welcome during the winter cold. When
travelling rapidly with good reindeer we would not
stop at every povarnniar, but sometimes omit one or
two en route. The people whose abodes are used
by travellers as povarnniars receive no recompense for
the inconvenience they experience, but feel, I am told,
amply repaid by the opportunity of seeing strangers and
hearing any bit of news or gossip that may be afloat in this
desolate land. I saw that the Yakouts, who are the station
masters upon the roads north of the city of Yakoutsk, are
not the most enterprising and active people in the world,
and it requires some management to secure the change of
animals necessary to your journey. They are arrant cow-
ards and can only be moved by bluster and threats.
Kindness secures from them only imposition, while they
seem to adore those who abuse and browbeat them. My
friend, the Ispravnik, did the wrangling upon this route,
much to my relief, and we were seldom delayed at the
190
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
stations. Upon this, as upon all my journeys in Siberia,
except when mounted on horseback or upon a single small
dog sled, travel was continued during the night as well as
day, and consequently we accomplished the 1,500 versts
to Werchojansk in eighteen days. During a portion of
the route we had horses for draught animals and at other
times reindeer. I much preferred the latter, because so
much fleeter and so much more docile. It seemed impos-
sible ever to force the Yakout horses out of a walk until
your sled overturned, and then they would run, and it
seemed equally impossible to stop them.
The fifth day after leaving the Kolyma we crossed the
divide between that river and the Indigirka, and here, by
the roadside, upon the crest of the mountain, stood a
cross which marks the dividing line between the police
districts of the Kolyma and Werchojansk. Here we
halted a few minutes and got out of our sleds while the
ex-Ispravnik and la petite JSTanyah took their formal
and religious farewell of the district we had just left.
At the foot of the cross they stood side by side facing
the east, the old man baring his gray head to the wind
and snow storm, while they muttered their prayers
APPROACHING THE LENA. 191
in unison and crossed themselves, the others in the
meanwhile respectfully bareheaded and attentive. The
train was drawn up on the road, and the horses embraced
the interval to paw away the snow and nibble the frost-
killed herbage beneath. The cross was hung with bits of
cloth and ribbon and bunches of horsehair, and in some
of the many cracks that seamed the venerable structure
were copper coins, all gifts from previous travellers, to
charm away any prospective evil that might attend so
great a change of residence. Each member of the party
contributed something to this curious collection — the old
man a leaf of tobacco, Nanyah a ribbon from her brown
tresses, while I tied a few hairs from the tail of each horse
in our train to one of the sticks that stood in the snow
near the cross and from which waved many similar offer-
ings to the idols of the Yakouts and Siberia. It was to
me altogether a strange and interesting spectacle, this
weird cross, with its ribbons and horsetails waving in the
breeze from the summit of a Siberian mountain ; the little
group of civilized people clad in furs and surrounded by
half savage yemsheeks, or drivers ; the horses, not
more civilized than their masters, gathering their food
from beneath the snow like reindeer; the sudden tran-
sition from devotion to levity upon the part of my com-
panions as they turned from their prayers to participate
in the rites of the savages and decorate the cross of the
Christians with the emblems of idolatry — all this was
equally new and impressive.
Not many days after leaving this spot we came to the
village of Abooie, where we rested at the house of the
gollivar, or headman of the village. He was a large fine-
looking Yakout, with short gray hair and a quiet, digni-
fied demeanor that greatly impressed me. He entertained
192
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
us very handsomely with frozen fish and frozen cream,
and made us exceedingly welcome to his house, which
was much larger and cleaner than any Yakout dwelling I
had yet seen. Two married sons occupied the same house
with their father, and one seemed to have no other occu-
pation than keeping the children, who wanted to look at
the strangers, upon the other side of the house. He was,
like his father, of colossal stature, but, I am afraid, had a
NICHOLAI CHAGRA'S HOUSE.
bad heart, for several times I saw him push the children
very gently away, and at the same time slyly pull their
hair until they screamed, when he would most soothingly
inquire what was the matter. I felt like braining the
brute for his cruelty, but knew that my interest in the
poor abused little innocents would neither be understood
nor appreciated. When our reindeer were harnessed
what was my surprise to see our dignified and venerable
host put on his big fur overcoat and go as one of our
APPROACHING THE LENA.
193
yemsTieelcs. He was a thoroughly good driver, however,
and told me almost to the minute when we would reach
each povarnniar en route and arrive at the next station. I
believe him to be a sly old rascal, though, for I detected
him winking at one of the other drivers after our arrival
vw^
/.
^
v, flfP
1
'i
'4
M
N1CHOLA1
CHAORA.
-v
at the station right in the midst of his devotion to the
corner saints. His face still presented the same venerable
dignity at the time, and I never was more completely sur-
prised than at that moment. I then thought that his son
had inherited some of his father's sly deviltry, which,
perhaps, accounted for his mild torture of the innocents.
194 ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
A few days later we reached the longest station on the
road, 250 versts. Here chance would have it that there
was not a sufficient supply of reindeer, and we had a fine
prospect of being left without transportation in the
mountain passes. On reaching the first povarnniar the
next morning after leaving the station we found some
Yakouts with sixty fine, strong reindeer returning from
transporting the merchandise of one of the Kolyma
traders. As they were going our way it seemed a simple
matter to hire them to convey us to the next station, but
I found the simplicity was entirely my own, and owing to
my lack of knowledge of the Yakout perversity, notwith-
standing the liberal recompense tendered by M. de
Yarowa, backed by a special reward offered by me per-
sonally, they said they were only willing to travel fifty
versts per day and sleep at night in the povamniars, thus
consuming four days in a journey that should have been
made in a day and a half. No amount of money or
threats would move them, and my companion told me
that he would therefore take possession of twelve of the
best reindeer and leave them with the headman of the
village at the next station, together with a liberal price for
their use. As may be imagined the drivers were very much
opposed to this arrangement, and this led to considera-
ble loud talk, not a word of which I understood. But
when, a moment afterward, I saw the old Ispravnik pom-
melling one of the Yakouts and the Cossack lasso
another who attempted to run away, I thought it was
time for action and I asked M. de Yarowa what I was to
do. He said I need do nothing — that they were all very
pleasant and bland now; that the only way to make
friends with Yakouts was to beat them; and, sure
enough, a few minutes later they all came up, hats in
APPROACHING THE LENA,
195
hand, and begged we would take all the reindeer we
wanted. They even harnessed them for us themselves
and mended one of our sleds that was broken.
At Werchojansk I obtained the first complete history
of the landing at the Lena delta of some of the officers
and crew of the Jeannette during the previous fall, and
learned that a search party under Chief Engineer Melville
was still engaged looking for the remains of those who
WEIUJIIOJANSK.
had already perished or for anyone that might still be alive.
Upon inquiry I ascertained that it was a journey of only
from about seven to ten days to where I would find Chief
Engineer Melville, and I could find no reason why I
should leave the country when so near and not find out
something about the search party. I therefore bade
"Good-by" to my kind old companion and his little
charge, Nanyah, and started at midnight for the Lena
delta, distant about 1,200 versts. A Cossack was detailed
196 ICE ?ACK AND TUNDRA.
by the acting Ispravnik of Werchojansk to accompany
me to look after my baggage, to see that animals were
furnished promptly at the stations and also to see that I
had tea and cooked meat whenever necessary. He was
to be, in fact, a general manager of my affairs as well as
half guard and half servant. At this time I did not
know a single word of the Russian language, as it had
not been necessary to learn it. At Mshne Kolymsk
nearly all the Russians spoke the Tchouktchi language,
and M. de Yarowa spoke French as well as his native
tongue, and managed everything en route. I was simply
a passenger in his train. It was different with me now,
as, though my Cossack spoke the Yakout language per-
fectly, he spoke no other except Russian. This seemed
at first a serious drawback, but I was not discouraged,
for if I had been able to make long journeys through
lands peopled only by savages, whose language I did not
understand, I was not afraid that I should fail to make
myself understood by civilized people. I had also a poly-
glot dictionary of the French, Russian, German and
English languages, with the French as the initial lan-
guage ; which was rather a drawback, as first I must know
the French equivalent for what I desired to explain in
Russian. It fortunately happened that my Cossack, be-
sides being unusually intelligent for one of his class in
that country, was able to read and write, though by no
means a scholar — so, with my dictionary and the uni-
versal sign language we got along quite well. Our con-
versations were never very extended, nor could they be
called brilliant ; it was quite enough if they were satis-
factory. My dictionary was never packed away ; it was
always placed under my pillow in the sled, and always
brought into the povarnniars and stations with the cook-
APPROACHING THE LENA. 197
ing utensils. Here we would pore over that book until
the meal was ready; I would, if possible, find the word
I desired to use and point out the Russian term, Michael
carefully marking it with his thumb-nail, while he took it
to the fire to see it more plainly, or some polite Yakout
stood by us holding a lighted stick for a candle. It was a
tedious method of communication, but, before finally
parting with Michael, some two months and a half after-
ward, I was able to make him understand nearly every-
thing I desired or that was necessary. Michael was
recommended to me as a very energetic and driving fellow,
who would make the Yakouts fly around and have things
ready quickly, and so I found him to be. He was the
veriest tyrant in the houses of the Yakouts, much to my
disgust. He would bluster in, kick over their utensils
and order them around as if he were the owner and not
they. If any of them dared to come over to the side of
the house where I was seated he would drive them back,
and never was satisfied with anything they did. The con-
sequence was that they all adored him and were ready to
kiss the ground he walked on. His manner was just such
as to endear him to the Yakout heart. They can never
appreciate kindness, but love to be abused. I never
could fully understand their character, but knew them to
be arrant cowards. With Michael I managed to travel
rapidly when the roads permitted, and at all times as
rapidly as possible.
13
CHAPTER XVII.
THE DIARY OF DE LONG.
Lena Delta, April 10th, 1882.
On April 2d I was more than two hundred miles from
Werchojansk. I reached the station of Yoayaska at
nine in the evening, and there found a packet of mail
matter which was to be forwarded to Irkutsk. The
Cossack said that I might open it, and these are the let-
ters which I read : —
Lena Delta, March 2Mh, 1882.
Honorable the Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. O. :
Sir — I have the honor of informing you of my suc-
cessful search for the party of Lieutenant De Long, with
its books, records, &c, &c. After several unsuccessful
attempts to follow De Long' s track from the northward
I tried the retracing of Mndermann's track from the
southward, and after visiting every point of land project-
ing into the great bay at the junction of the Lena
branches, from Matvey around from the west to a point
bearing E.N.E. and forming one of the banks of the river
Kugoasastack, ascending the bank, I found where a large
fire had been made, and Mndermann recognized it as the
river down which he came. I turned the point to go
north, and about one thousand yards from the point I
noticed the points of four poles lashed together and pro-
jecting two feet out of the snow drift, under the bank. I
dropped from the sled, and going up to the poles saw the
198
THE DIARY OF DE LONG.
201
muzzle of a Remington rifle standing eight inches out of
the snow, and the gun strap hitched over the poles.
I set the natives digging out the bank, and Mndermann
and myself commenced to search the bank and high
ground. I walked south, Mndermann walking north. I
had gone about five hundred yards when I saw the camp
FINDING DE LONG.
kettle standing out of the snow, and, close by, three
bodies partially buried in snow. I examined them and
found them to be Lieutenant De Long, Dr. Ambler and
Ah Sam, the cook.
I found De Long's note book alongside of him, a copy
of which please find enclosed, dating from October 1,
when at Usterday, until the end. Under the poles were
found the books, records, &c, and two men. The rest of
the people lie between the place where De Long was found
202 ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
and the wreck of a flatboat, a distance of five hundred
yards. The snow bank will have to be dug out. It has
a base of thirty feet and a height of twenty feet, with a
natural slope.
The point on which the people lie, although high, is
covered with drift-wood, evidence that it is flooded during
some seasons of the year. Therefore I will convey the
people to a proper place on the bank of the Lena and
have them interred. In the meantime I will prosecute
the search for the second cutter with all diligence, as the
weather may permit. The weather has been so bad we
have been able to travel but one day in four, but hope for
better weather as spring advances.
I have the honor, sir, to be very respectfully,
G. W. MELVILLE,
Passed Assistant Engineer, United States Navy.
Mr. Melville's first letter was followed by a second :
Lena Delta, March 25t7i, 1882.
The Honorable Secretary of tlie Navy, Washington, D. C. :
Sik — The following is the list of dead found to date :
Lieutenant George W. De Long, United States Navy.
Assistant Surgeon James M. Ambler, United States
Navy.
Mr. Jerome J. Collins.
Neils Iverson, C. H.
Carl August Goertz, seaman.
Adolph Dressier, seaman.
George Washington Boyd, second-class fireman.
Ah Sam, cook.
I have the honor to be, very respectfully,
G. W. MELVILLE,
Passed Assistant Engineer, United States Navy.
THE DIARY OF DE LONG. 203
And when I had read these letters I turned to the
papers which accompanied them and found them to be
the diary kept by De Long from October 1st till October
30th, 1881. It was the most horrible tale of agonizing,
lingering death. Here is what I read :
''Saturday, October 1st — 111th day, and a new month.
— Called all hands as soon as the cook announced boiling
water, and at 6:45 had our breakfast, half a pound of
deer meat and tea. Sent Mndermann and Alexia to ex-
amine the main river, other men to collect wood. The
Doctor resumed the cutting away of poor Ericksen' s toes
this morning. No doubt it will have to continue until his
feet are gone, unless death ensues or we get to some set-
tlement. Only one toe left now. Weather clear, light
northeast airs, barometer 30.15 at 6:05. Temperature
18° at 7:30. Mndermann and Alexia were seen to have
crossed, and I immediately sent men to carry our load
over. Left the following record :
"Saturday, October 1st, 1881. — Fourteen of the officers
and men of the United States Arctic steamer Jeannette
reached this hut on Wednesday, September 28th, and,
having been forced to wait for the river to freeze over, are
proceeding to cross to the west side this a.m. on their
journey to reach some settlement on the Lena Elver.
We have two days' provisions, but having been fortunate
enough thus far to get game in our pressing needs we
have no fear for the future.
fci Our party are all well except one man, Ericksen,
whose toes have been amputated in consequence of frost
bite. Other records will be found in several huts on the
east side of this river, along which we have come from
the north.
"GEOKGE W. DE LONG,
" Lieutenant, U. S. Navy, commanding expedition."
204 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Attached to this was a list of the party.
At 8:30 made the final trip and got our sick man over
in safety. From there we proceeded until 11:20, dragging
onr man on the sled. Halted for dinner — half pound of
meat and tea. At 1 went ahead again until 5:05. Act-
ually under way 8:30 to 9:15, 1 to 1:40, 3:35 to 4, 9:30 to
10:20, 1:50 to 2:10, 4:15 to 4:35, 10:30 to 10:20, 2:20 to
2:40, 4:45 to 5:05, 3 to 3:25. At 8 p.m. crawled into our
blankets.
Sunday, October 2d. — I think we all slept fairly well
until midnight, but from that time forward it was so cold
and uncomfortable that sleep was out of the question.
At 4:30 we were all out and in front of the fire, daylight
just appearing. Ericksen kept talking in his sleep all
night and effectually kept those awake who are not
already awakened by the cold. Breakfast at 5 a.m. —
half pound of meat and tea. Bright, cloudless morning,
light northern airs ; barometer 30.30 at 5:32 ; temperature
at 6, 35°. At 7 went ahead, following the frozen water
whenever we could find it, and at 9:20 I felt quite sure we
had gone some distance on the main river. I think our
gait was at least two miles an hour and our time under
way 2h. 40m. I calculate our forenoon work at least six
miles, 7 to 7:35, 10:22 to 10:40, 3:20 to 3:40, 7:45 to 8:05,
10:55 to 11:15, 3:50 to 4:05, 8:15 to 8:30. Dinner camp,
4:15 to 4:20, 8:40 to 8:50, 1 to 1:30. Total, 9:20 to 9:40,
1:40 to 2, 5h. 15m.; 9:50 to 10:12, 2:15 to 2:35 at least,
2:45 to 3.
Two miles an hour distance make good ten to twelve
miles, and where are we % I think it the beginning of the
Lena Kiver at last. Sogaster has been to us a myth.
We saw two old huts at a distance, and this was all ; but
they were out of our road and the day not half gone.
THE DIARY OF DE LONG. 205
Kept on the ice all the way, and therefore think we were
over water ; but the stream was so narrow and so crooked
that it never could have been a navigable stream. My
chart is simply useless. I must go on plodding to the
southward, trusting in God to guide me to some settle-
ment, for I have long since realized that we are powerless
to help ourselves. A bright, calm, beautiful day brought
sunshine to cheer us up. An icy road and one day's
rations yet. Boats frozen, of course, and hauled up. ~No
hut in sight, and we halt on a bluff to spend a cold and
comfortless night. Supper — half-pound meat and tea.
Built a rousing fire. Built a log bed. Set a watch, two
hours each, to keep fire going and get supper. Then we
stood by for a second cold and wretched night. There
was so much wind we had to put up our tent halves for a
screen and sit shivering in our half blankets.
Monday, October 3d, 1881 — 113th day. — It was so fear-
fully cold and wretched that I served out tea to all hands,
and on this we managed to struggle along until 5 a.m.,
when we ate our last deer meat and had more tea. Our
morning food now consists of four-fourteenths of a pound
of pemmican each and a half-starved dog. May God
again incline unto our aid ! How much farther we have
to go before making a shelter or settlement He only
knows. Ericksen seems failing. He is weak and power-
less, and the moment he closes his eyes talks, mostly in
Danish, German and English. No one can sleep, even
though our other surroundings permitted. For some
cause my watch stopped at 10:45 last night while one of
the men on watch had it. I set it as near as I could by
guessing, and we must run by that until I can do better.
Sun rose yesterday morning at 6:40 by the watch when
running all right. 7:05 to 7:40, 7:50 to 8:20, 8:30 to 9, 9:15
206 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
to 9:35, 9:50 to 10:10, 10:25 to 10:45, 11. Back, 11:20,
11:30, 11:50, 11:50. Dinner, 35, 30, 30, 20, 20; total, 155
= 2 hours 35 minutes, say 5 miles.
Our half day's work I put, as above, five miles. Some
time and distanoe were lost by crossing the river upon see-
ing numerous fox traps. A man' s track was also seen in
the snow, bound south, and we followed it until it crossed
the river to the west bank again. Here we were obliged
to go back again in our tracks, for the river was open in
places and we could not follow the man's track direct.
Another of the dozen shoals that infest the river swung
us off to the eastward, too, and I hastened to get on the
west bank again, reaching there at 11:50 for dinner — our
last four-fourteenths of a pound of pemmican. At 1:40
got under way again and made a long spurt until 2:20.
While at the other side of the river Alexia said he saw a
hut, and during our dinner camp he said he again saw a
hut. Under our circumstances my desire was to get to it
as speedily as possible. As Alexia points out, it was on
the left bank of the river of which we were now on
the right side, looking south, but a sand-bank gave us
excellent walking for a mile or two until we took to the
river and got across it diagonally. Here, at 2:20, I
called a halt, and Alexia mounted the bluff to take a
look again. He now announced he saw a second hut
about one and a quarter miles back from the coast, the
other hut being about the same distance south, and on
the edge of the bluff. The heavy dragging across the
country of a sick man on a sled made me incline to
the hut on the shore, since as the distance was about the
same we could get over the ice in one-third of the time.
Mndermann, who climbed the bluff, saw that the object
inland was a hut — was not so confident of the one on the
THE DIARY OF DE LONG. 207
shore. Alexia, however, was quite positive, and, not see-
ing very well myself, I unfortunately took his eyes as
best and ordered an advance along the river to the south-
ward. Away we went, Nindermann and Alexia leading,
and had progressed about a mile when plash in I went
through the ice up to my shoulders before my knapsack
brought me up. While I was crawling out, in went Gcertz
to his neck about fifty yards behind me, and behind him
in went Mr. Collins to his waist. Here was a time. The
moment we came out of the water we were one sheet of
ice, and danger of frost bite was imminent. Along we
hobbled, however, until we reached, at 3:45, about the
point on which the hut was seen. Here Mndermann
climbed the bluff, followed by the Doctor. At first the
cry was " All right, come ahead," but no sooner were we
well up than Mndermann shouted, " There is no hut
here." To my dismay and alarm nothing but a large
mound of earth was to be seen, which, from its regular
shape and singular position, would seem to have been
built artificially for a beacon. So sure was Mndermann
that it was a hut, that he went all round it looking for a
door, and then climbed on top to look for a hole in the
roof. But of no avail. It was nothing but a mound
of earth. Sick at heart, I ordered a camp to be made
in a hole in the bluff face, and soon before a roaring
fire we were drying and burning our clothes while the cold
wind ate into our backs.
And now for supper nothing remained but the dog. I
therefore ordered him killed and dressed by Iverson, and
soon after a stew was made of such parts as could not be
carried, of which everybody except the Doctor and my-
self eagerly partook. To us two it was a nauseating
mess, and — but why go on with such a disagreeable sub-
208 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ject. I had the remainder weighed, and I am quite sure
we had twenty-seven pounds. The animal was fat, and
as he had been fed on pemmican presumably clean ; but
immediately upon halting I sent Alexia off with his gun
inland toward the hut to determine whether that was a
myth like our present one. He returned about dark, cer-
tain that it was a large hut, for he had been inside of it
and had found some deer meat scraps and bones. For a
moment I was tempted to start everybody for it, but
Alexia was by no means sure he could find it in the dark,
and if we lost our way we would be worse off than before.
We accordingly prepared to make the best of it where we
were. We three wet people were burning and steaming
before the fire. Collins and Gcertz had taken some alco-
hol, but I could not get it down. Cold weather, with a
raw northwest wind impossible to avoid or screen, our
future was a wretched, dreary night. Ericksen soon
became delirious, and his talking was a horrible accom-
paniment to the wretchedness of our surroundings.
Warm we could not get, and getting dry seemed out of
the question. Every one seemed dazed and stupefied,
and I feared some of us would perish during the night.
How cold it was I don't know, as my last thermometer
was broken by my many falls upon the ice, but I think it
must have been below zero. A watch was set to keep the
fire going and we huddled around it, and thus our third
night without sleep was passed. If Alexia had not
wrapped his sealskin around me and sat alongside of me
to keep me warm by the heat of his body I think I
should have frozen to death. As it was I steamed and
shivered and shook. Ericksen' s groans and rambling talk
rang out on the night air, and such a dreary, wretched
night I hope I shall never again see.
THE DIARY OF DE LONG, 209
T/iursday, October 4t7i — 114th day. — At the first ap-
proach of daylight we all began to move around and the
cook was set to work making tea. The Doctor now made
the unpleasant discovery that Ericksen had got his
gloves off during the night, and that now his hands were
frozen. Men were at once set at work rubbing them, and
by 6 a.m. had so far restored circulation as to risk mov-
ing the man. Each one hastily swallowed a cup of tea
and got his load in readiness. Ericksen was quite un-
conscious, and we lashed him on the sled. A southwest
gale was blowing, and the sensation of cold was intense.
But at 6 a.m. we started, made a forced march of it,
and at 8 a.m. had got the sick man and ourselves,
thank God, under cover of a hut large enough to hold us.
Here we at once made a fire, and, for the first time since
Saturday morning last, got warm.
The Doctor at once examined Ericksen, and found him
very low indeed. His pulse was very feeble. He
was quite unconscious, and under the shock of last
night's exposure was sinking very fast. Fears were
entertained that he might not last many hours, and
I therefore called upon every one to join me in reading
the prayers for a sick person before we sought any rest
for ourselves. This was done in a quiet and reverent
manner, though I fear my broken utterances made but
little of the service audible. Then setting a watch we all,
except Alexia, lay down to sleep. At 10 a.m. Alexia
went off to hunt, but returned at noon wet, having broken
through the ice and fallen in the river. At 6 p.m. we
roused up, and I considered it necessary to think of some
food for my party. Half a pound of dog meat was fried
for each person, and a cup of tea given, and that consti-
tuted our day's food, but we were so grateful that we
210 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
were not exposed to the merciless southwest gale that
tore around us that we did not mind short rations.
Wednesday, October Uh— 115th day.— The cook com-
mences at 7:30 to get tea made from yesterday's tea
leaves. Nothing to serve out until evening. Half a
pound of dog meat per day is our food until some relief
is afforded us. Alexia went off hunting again at 9, and
I set the men gathering light sticks enough to make a
flooring for the house, for the frozen ground thawing
under everybody kept them damp and wet and robbed
them of much sleep. Southwest gale continues. Ba-
rometer, 30.12 at 2:40. Mortification has set in in Erick-
sen's leg and he is sinking. Amputation would be of no
use, as he would probably die under the operation. He
is partially conscious. At 12 Alexia came back, having
seen nothing. He crossed the river this time, but unable
longer to face the cold gale was obliged to return. I am
of the opinion we are on Titary Island, on its eastern side,
and about twenty-five miles from Ku Mark Sirka, which
I take to be a settlement. This is a last hope for us.
Sogaster has long since faded away. The hut in which
we are is quite new and clearly not the astronomical
station marked on my chart. In fact, the hut is not fin-
ished, having no door and no porch. It may be intended
for a summer hut, though the numerous fox traps would
lead me to suppose that it would occasionally be visited
at other times. Upon this last chance and another sun
rest all our hopes of escape, for I can see nothing more to
be done. As soon as the gale abates I shall send Ninder-
mann and another man to make a forced march to Ku
Mark Sirka for relief. At 6 p.m. served out half pound
of dog meat and second-hand tea, and then went to sleep.
Thursday, October 6th— 116th day.— Called all hands
THE DIARY OF DE LONG. 211
at 7:30. Had a cup of third-hand tea, with half an ounce
of alcohol in it. Everybody very weak. Gale moderating
somewhat. Sent Alexia out to hunt. Shall start Ninder-
mann and Noros at noon to make the forced march to Ku
Mark Sirka. At 8:45 our messmate Ericksen departed
this life. Addressed a few words of cheer and comfort to
the men. Alexia came back empty-handed — too much
drifting snow. What, in God' s name, is going to become
of us ? Fourteen pounds of dog meat left and twenty -five
miles to a possible settlement. As to burying Ericksen,
I cannot dig a grave, for the ground is frozen and we have
nothing to dig with. There is nothing to do but bury
him in the river. Sewed him up in the flaps of the tent
and covered him with my flag. Got the men ready, and
with half an ounce of alcohol we will try to make out to
bury him, but we are all so weak I do not see how we are
going to travel. At 12:40 read the burial service and
carried our departed shipmate to the river, where a hole
having been cut in the ice he was buried, three volleys
from our Kemingtons being fired over him as a funeral
honor. A board was prepared, with this cut on it : " In
memory of H. H. Ericksen, October 6, 1881. U. S. S.
Jeannette." And this will be stuck in the river bank
almost over his grave.
His clothing was divided up among his messmates.
Iverson has his Bible and a lock of his hair. Supper at
5 p.m., half a pound of dog meat and tea.
Friday, October 7th — 117th day. — Breakfast, consist-
ing of our last half pound of dog meat and tea. Our last
grain of tea was put in the kettle this morning, and we
are now about to undertake our journey of twenty-five
miles with some old tea leaves and two quarts of alcohol.
However, I trust in God, and I believe that He who has
212 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
fed us thus far will not suffer us to die of want now.
Commenced preparations for departure at 7:10. One
Winchester rille being out of order is, with 161 rounds of
ammunition, left behind. We have with us two Rem-
ingtons and 243 rounds of ammunition. Left the follow-
ing record in the hut :
"Friday, October 7th, 1881. — The undermentioned offi-
cers and men of the late United States steamer Jeannette
are leaving here this morning to make a forced march to
Ku Mark, Sirka, or some other settlement on the Lena
River. We reached here Tuesday, October 4, with a
disabled comrade, H. H. Ericksen, seaman, who died yes-
terday morning and was buried in the river at noon.
" His death resulted from frost bite and exhaustion due
to consequent exposure.
" The rest of us are well, but have no provisions left,
having eaten our last this morning."
Under way by 8:30 and proceeded until 11:20, by which
time we had made about three miles. Here we were all
pretty well done up, and seemed to be wandering in a
labyrinth. A large lump of wood, swept in by an eddy,
seemed to be a likely place to get hot water, and I halted
the party for dinner— one ounce of alcohol in a pot of tea.
Then went ahead and soon struck what seemed like the
main river again. Here four of us broke through the ice
in trying to cross, and, fearing frost bite, I had a fire built
on the west bank to dry us up. Sent Alexia off mean-
while to look for food, directing him not to go far or stay
long, but at 1:30 he had not returned nor was he in sight.
Light southwest breeze, foggy. Mountains in sight to
southward. At 5:30 Alexia returned with one ptarmigan,
of which we made soup, and with half an ounce of alcohol
had our supper. Then crawled under our blankets for a
THE DIARY OF DE LONG. 213
sleep. Light west breeze, full moon, starlight, not very-
cold. Alexia saw the river a mile wide with no ice in it.
Saturday, October 8th — 118th day. — Called all hands at
5:30. Breakfast, one ounce of alcohol in a pint of hot
water.
Doctor's Note. — Alcohol proves of great advantage.
Keeps off craving for food, preventing gnawing at
stomach, and has kept up the strength of the men, as
given — three ounces per day, as estimated, and in accord-
ance with Dr. Ambler's experiments.
Went ahead until 10:30. One ounce alcohol. Half-
past six to half -past ten, five miles. Struck big river at
11:30. Ahead again. Snowbanks. Met small river ; have
to turn back. Halt at 5 ; only made advance one mile
more. Hard luck. Snow. South-southeast wind, cold.
Camp. But little wood. Half an ounce of alcohol.
Sunday, October 9th — 119th day. — All hands at 4:30.
One ounce of alcohol. Read divine service. Send Nin-
dermann and Noros ahead for relief. They carry their
blankets, one rifle, forty rounds of ammunition and two
ounces of alcohol. Orders to keep the west bank of
river until they reach a settlement. They started at 7.
Cheered them. Under way at 8. Crossed the creek.
Broke through the ice. All wet up to knees. Stopped
and built fires. Dried clothes. Under way again at 10:30.
Lee breaking down. At 1 struck river bank. Halt for
dinner ; one ounce alcohol. Alexia shot three ptarmigan.
Made soup. We are following Mndermann' s track, al-
though he is long since out of sight. Under way at 3:30.
High bluff. Ice moving rapidly to northward in the river.
Halt at 4:40 on coming to wood. Find canal-boat. Lay
our heads in it and go to sleep. Half ounce alcohol.
Supper.
214 ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
Monday, October 10th— 120th day.— Last half ounce of
alcohol at 5:30. At 6:30 sent Alexia off to look for ptar-
migan. Eat deer-skin scraps. Yesterday morning ate my
deer-skin foot nips. Light southeast wind. Air not very
cold. Under way at 8. In crossing creek three of us
got wet. Built fire and dried out. Ahead again until
11; used up. Built fire; made a drink out of the tea
leaves from alcohol bottle. On again at noon. Fresh
south-southwest wind. Drifting snow. Very hard going.
Lee begging to be left. Some little beach and then long
stretches of high bank. Ptarmigan tracks plentiful. Fol-
lowing Nindermann's track. At 3 halted, used up.
Crawled into a hole in the bank. Collected wood and
built a fire. Alexia away in quest of game. Nothing for
supper except a spoonful of glycerine. All hands weak
and feeble, but cheerful. God help us !
Tuesday, October 11th — 121st day.— Southwest gale,
with snow. Unable to move. No game. Teaspoonful of
glycerine and hot water for food. No more wood in our
vicinity.
Wednesday, October 12th — 122d day. — Breakfast, last
spoonful glycerine and hot water. For dinner we had a
couple of handsful of Arctic willow in a pot of water, and
drank the infusion. Everybody getting weaker and
weaker. Hardly strength to get firewood. Southwest
gale, with snow.
Thursday, October 13th — 123d day. —Willow tea.
Strong southwest winds. No news from Nindermann.
We are in the hands of God, and unless He relents are
lost. We cannot move against the wind, and staying here
means starvation. After noon went ahead for a mile,
crossing either another river or a wind in the big one.
After crossing missed Lee. Went down in a hole in the
THE DIARY OF DE LONG, 215
bank and camped. Sent back for Lee. He had laid
down and was waiting to die. All united in saying the
Lord's Prayer and Creed. After supper strong gale of
wind. Horrible night.
Friday, October Itth — 124th day. — Breakfast, willow
tea. Dinner, half teaspoonful sweet oil and willow tea.
Alexia shot one ptarmigan. Had soup. Southwest wind
moderating.
Saturday, October 15th — 125th day. — Breakfast, willow
tea and two old boots. Conclude to move at sunrise.
Alexia broken down ; also Lee. Came to an empty grain
raft. Halt and camp. Signs of smoke at twilight to
southward.
Sunday, October 16t7i — 126th day. — Alexia broken down.
Divine service.
Monday, October 17th — 127th day. — Alexia dying. Doc-
tor baptized him. Read prayers for sick. Mr. Collins'
birthday, forty years old. About sunset Alexia died.
Exhaustion from starvation. Covered him with ensign
and laid him in the crib.
Tuesday, October ISth — 128th day. — Calm and mild.
Snow falling. Buried Alexia in the afternoon. Laid
him on the ice of the river and covered him over with
slabs of ice.
Wednesday, October 19th — 129th day. — Cutting up tent
to make foot-gear. Doctor went ahead to find new camp.
Shifted by dark.
TJtursday, October 20th — 130th day. — Bright and sunny,
but very cold. Lee and Kaach done up.
Friday, October 21st — 131st day. — Kaach was found
dead about midnight between the Doctor and myself.
Lee died about noon. Read prayers for sick when we
found he was going.
1 i
216 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Saturday, October 22d — 132d day. — Too weak to carry
the bodies of Lee and Kaach out on the ice. The Doctor,
Collins and myself carried them around the corner out of
sight. Then my eyes closed up.
Sunday, October 23d — 133d day. — Everybody pretty
weak. Slept or rested to-day, and then managed to get
enough wood in before dark. Read part of divine ser-
vice. Suffering in our feet. No foot-gear.
Monday, October 24t7i— 134th day.— A hard night.
Tuesday, October 25th— 135th day.
Wednesday, October 26th — 136th day.
Thursday, October 27th — 137th day. — Iverson broken
down.
Friday, October 28th — 138th day. — Iverson died during
early morning.
Saturday, October 29th— 139th day. — Dressier died dur-
ing the night.
Sunday, October 30th — 140th day. — Boyd and Gcertz
died during the night. Mr. Collins dying.
There the diary stops. When I had read it I tried to
tell the Cossack what it was, but I could not speak. In
many passages of the narrative I recognized experiences of
my own. For the first time in my life I found it impossible
to restrain my emotion before strangers, and buried my
face in my hands for ten or fifteen minutes.
MONUMENT HILL.
CHAPTER XVIII.
HOW THE BODIES WERE FOUND.
Bookoff, Lena Delta,
April 24tth, 1882.
During the next fortnight I gathered supplementary
details of the tragedy. On the 16th of March, all pre-
liminaries having been arranged, Chief Engineer Melville's
search party started from the temx>orary depot he had
established at Cas Carta to make a thorough and exhaust-
ive search for Captain De Long and his unfortunate com-
panions. The search party as organized consisted of
Chief Engineer G. W. Melville, commanding ; James H.
Bartlett, assistant engineer of the Jeannette, and William
217
218 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Mndermann, who was one of the two sent ahead by Cap-
tain De Long to seek the aid they conld not reach in a
body, and thns escaped the tragic fate that awaited those
left behind. Besides those mentioned, the search party
comprised Messrs. Greenbek and Bobookoff, interpreters ;
Kolinkin, a Cossack, and a Russian exile, Yafeem Kapella,
general assistant and supervisor of the Yakout dog-drivers
and helpers, who were Tomat Constantin, Georgie Nich-
olai, "Capitan" Inukkenty Shimuloff, Story Mcholai,
Yassilli Koolgark and Simeon Illak, with Ivan Portny-
agin and his wife, cook and helper.
The search was first from Usterday, following the track
of the retreat, until arriving at Matvey. This search re-
sulted in finding nothing new concerning the lost ones,
and then Chief Engineer Melville decided to work back
upon Mndermann's line of retreat. They started on the
23d of March from Matvey and soon found the wreck of a
scow for which they had been looking, as Mndermann
felt it would be a surer guide than any other to the re-
mains of his former shipmates. He had passed this wreck
when in company with Noros the first day they separated
from the main body, and was convinced, judging from the
condition in which he had left his companions and the
rate of travel they were able to maintain, that they had
not advanced far beyond this conspicuous object. And
so it proved, for after they had found the wreck they had
not hunted along the bank more than about Hyo hundred
yards when they came upon the barrel of a rifle, which,
with the ends of four poles lashed together, upon which
it hung, was protruding from the snowdrift. Three poles
had been lashed together to support one end of the ridge-
pole of the tent, while the other extended back and rested
upon the bank.
ROW THE BODIES WERE FOUND. 219
Two natives were at once set to work digging out the
snow on either side of the poles, which here was abont eight
feet deep, and soon each came npon a body at the same
time. Thus Boyd and Gcertz were found, and Chief Engi-
neer Melville, after directing them to clear away the snow
toward the east, ascended the bank, here twenty feet
above the level of the ice, to find a place in which he could
take a round of angles with his compass. While proceed-
ing in a westerly direction his attention was drawn to a
camp kettle about a thousand yards from the boat wreck,
and, approaching, he nearly stumbled over a bare hand
protruding up out of the snow. Stooping down and re-
moving the snow, which was not over a foot in depth, he
found the remains of the unfortunate commander of the
expedition, Captain De Long, and within three feet of him
lay Dr. Ambler, while "Sam," the Chinese cook, was
stretched at their feet. All were partly covered by the
half tent which they had brought up with them when
their companions no longer needed it, and some pieces of
blanket had also been used to secure a little warmth.
Near by were the remains of a fire, and in the camp kettle
some pieces of Arctic willow, of which they had made tea.
On the ground near him lay Captain De Long' s pocket
journal, a few extracts from which mournful record I have
already sent you. It seemed apparent that he, with the
surgeon and " Sam," had died the day of the last entry
in this journal ; and probably the book had not been re-
turned to his pocket after making that entry, for his
pencil was also on the ground near the book. He had
ever been particular to make some entry in his journal
each day, and when nothing transpired he desired to
mention he merely wrote the date and the number of days
since the vessel sank and the retreat commenced. Before
220 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
leaving the tent place to drag their weary, shoeless feet to
their last rest they had respectfully covered the face of
Mr. Collins, their brother officer, with a cloth. The tent
had been pitched in a deep gorge in the river bank. The
two boxes of records were found at the tent place, below
the bank, and a little further toward the east were the
medicine chest and the flag, still upon its staff.
The bodies of Iverson and Dressier were lying side by
side just outside of where the half tent shelter had hung
from the ridge pole, and that of Mr. Collins was further
in rear on the inside of the tent. Lee and Kaach were
not discovered for some time ; but by referring to the
Captain's journal the searchers found the statement that
after they died their bodies were carried " around the
corner out of sight" by the three officers, who, with the
cook, were now the only survivors, and too weak to bury
their fallen comrades. By sounding through the snow
toward the west the missing bodies were found in a cleft
in the bank near by. None of those found had boots on
their feet, but instead had wrapped rags around and tied
them on to protect them somewhat from the cold. In
their pockets, however, were found the remains of burned
skin boots, which showed but too plainly to what strait
they had been reduced for food. The hands and clothing
of all were burned, and it seemed that in their last despair-
ing effort to gather some warmth they had actually
crawled into the fire. Boyd was found lying directly
upon the remains of a fire, and his clothing was burned
through to the skin, but his body was not scorched.
It was Chief Engieeer Melville' s intention to bury the re-
mains upon the bank where they were found, but the na-
tives assured him that in all probability any tomb would be
washed away, as when the river broke up in the spring there
BOW THE BODIES WERE FOUND.
221
would be about four feet of water over the entire delta.
He therefore had them all removed to the top of a hill of
solid rock about three hun-
dred feet high, about forty
versts to the southwest,
and there constructed a
mausoleum of wood from
the wreck of the scow near
where they were found.
First a gigantic cross was
hewn out of a solid piece of
driftwood and erected on
the crest of the hill, and
around it was built a box
six feet wide, two feet
deep and twenty-two feet
long, placed exactly in the
magnetic meridian. After the bodies had been placed
- — -=S^5^JEUv^
DIAGRAMS OF TOMB.
222
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
therein the box was covered with timbers laid side by side
and a ridge pole sixteen feet long framed into the cross
^.ve feet above the lid of the coffin, the ends supported by
timbers having the same inward slant. The cross itself
is twenty-two feet high from the surface of the rock, is
one foot square, and the cross-beam is twelve feet long by
one foot square.
On the cross is engraved the following inscription, cut
in by the search party at their house at nights : —
In
MEMORY
of
12
of
the
OFFICERS
and
MEN
of
THE ARC
TIC STEAMER "JEA
^NETTE,"
WHO DIED OF STARVATION
IN LE
NA DELTA, OCTOBE
Ft, 1881.
Lieutenant
G. W. DE LONG.
Dr. J. M. AMBLER.
J. J. COLLINS.
W. LEE.
A, GOIRTZ.
A. DRESSLER.
H. ERICKSEN.
G. W. BOYD.
N. IVERSON.
H. KAACH,
ALEXIA.
AH SAM.
HOW THE BODIES WERE FOUND. 223
Chief Melville lias made arrangements to have the pyra-
mid sodded this spring, under the direction of the com-
mander at Bulun, in case he has finished his search in time
to escape before the breaking np of the rivers. The struct-
ure is a very creditable affair, and conspicuous from the
river at a distance of twenty versts.
When the records and books were found they were im-
mediately closed and no one permitted to examine their
contents, with the exception of Captain De Long's pocket
journal, and of that only the month of October, in order
to serve as a guide in prosecuting their further search.
The articles of value and such things as would be of in-
terest to friends of the deceased were also boxed up, and,
together with the records and flag, were at once sent to
Yakoutsk in charge of Mr. Bobookoff and the Cossack, to
be placed in the care of the Governor of the district until
the arrival of Chief Melville or instructions from the Navy
Department concerning the disposition to be made of them.
In the meantime diligent search has been made for the
remains of Alexia, which the Captain's journal says were
carried out upon the ice abreast of the scow and covered
with slabs of ice, but as yet they have not been found.
As soon as the entombment had been completed the
search party started on the 10th of April to look for any
traces of Lieutenant Chipp's party having reached the
delta or adjacent coasts. It would be impossible to make
a complete search of the delta, for that is merely an im-
mense sand-bank, cut in every direction by thousands of
large and small rivers, many of them navigable, but most
of them changing their direction from year to year. A
search at this time by so small a party could necessarily
only cover the coast line before the sledging season is over,
and after that all traces would be removed by the break-
224 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ing up and overflow of the river. In this last search Chief
Melville was to take a westerly conrse as far as the Olenek
River and return by the northwest coast to Cas Carta,
while Bartlett and Mndermann started together from Cas
Carta and went in company as far to the northeast as
Barkin. Here they were to separate, Bartlett taking the
eastern coast, while Mndermann returned to Cas Carta by
the northern shore.
Neither Bartlett nor Mndermann found any traces of
those they were seeking, and at this date Chief Melville
Collira*
•^Gortz
BoydN +Fire
• Fire
y-
Iversen
Medicine Chest '"""«t
DretSer [ D D an<mag S'!!'
$ Boxes of Records
1
Kuack
POSITION OF THE BOWES.
has not returned. He was unfortunately delayed three
days after the others in starting by circumstances over
which he had no control and may have found it a serious
inconvenience when the time for sledging was drawing so
rapidly to a close. After his return to Cas Carta the
entire party will join Bartlett, who is at Germavelok, and
from there a search will be made to Cape Borchoya and
the bay of that name. If nothing should transpire from
these last searches the sad presumption must prevail that
Lieutenant Chipp's boat swamped in the gale of Septem-
ber 12 and all on board of her perished.
CHAPTER XIX.
THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.
In relating the story of the Jeannette, of which conflict-
ing accounts have been given, I prefer to rely on the
journal kept by Captain De Long during the voyage,
and read by me while travelling up the Lena River, and
on the statement made to me by Mndermann and Noros,
the two survivors of the Captain's boat. The crew num-
bered thirty-three all told when the vessel entered the
Arctic Ocean. She left San Francisco July 8, 1879 ; she
sank June 13, 1881. She was put into the ice pack within
two months of her departure ; she was frozen in before
the end of November, and she never again came out. The
record of the two years in the ice is extremely monoto-
nous. It was only when the Jeannette' s last moments
approached in the summer of 1881 that the interest of the
tale begins. At this point it is taken up by the journal
of De Long. His notes run as follows :
Saturday, June 11th (ship's date Sunday, June 12th,
correct date). — At half -past seven a.m. the ice com-
menced to close in on the port side, but after advancing a
foot or two came to rest. One watch was employed in
hauling heavy floe pieces into a small canal on the port
bow to close it up and to receive the greater part of the
thrust. The ice at ten a.m had advanced toward the
port side until these floe pieces had received the thrust,
and everything quieted down again. The situation of the
227
228 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
ship and her surroundings may be seen from the following
rough diagram : —
Magnetic
At FOUK p.m. the ice came down in great force all along
the port side, jamming the ship hard against the ice on
the starboard side of her and causing her to heel 16° to
starboard. From the snapping and cracking of her
bunker sides and starting in of the starboard ceiling, as
well as the opening of the seams of the ceiling to the
width of 1J inches, it was feared that the ship was about
to be seriously endangered, and orders were accordingly
given to lower the starboard boats and haul them away
from the ship to a safe position on the ice floe. This was
done quietly and without confusion. The ice in coming
in on the port side also had a movement toward the stern,
and this last movement not only raised her port bow, but
buried the starboard quarter, and jamming it and the
stern against the heavy ice effectually prevented the ship
rising to pressure. Mr. Melville, while below in the en-
gine room, saw a break across the ship in the wake of the
boilers and engines, showing that so solidly were the
stern and starboard quarter held by the ice that the ship
was breaking in two from the pressure upward exerted on
the port bow of the ship. The starboard side of the ship
THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE. 229
was also evidently broken, because water was rising rapidly
in the starboard coal-bunker. Orders were now given to
land half the pemmican in the deck-house and all the
bread which was on deck, and the sleds and dogs were
likewise carried to a position of safety. At 4:30 there was
a lull in the pressure, and it was assumed for the moment
that the ice had united under the ship, and being as close
together as it could come would occasion us no further
injury, and that we might be able to take care of the
vessel yet. The ship was heeled 22° to starboard and was
raised forward 4' 6", the entire port bow being visible also
to a height of 4' 6" from the forefoot. In the early morning
we had been able to see through the water down alongside
the stem on the starboard side, and we could see that the
forefoot was bent to starboard about a foot. This would
indicate that the pressure received on the 19th of January,
1880, was from port to starboard, instead of the other
way, as we then supposed. But at 5 p.m. the pressure
was renewed, and continued with tremendous force, the
ship cracking in every part. The spar-deck commenced
to buckle up and the starboard side seemed again on the
point of coming up. Orders were now given to get out
provisions, clothing, bedding, ship's books and papers,
and to remove all sick to a place of safety. While en-
gaged in this work another tremendous pressure was
received, and at 6 p.m. it was found that the ship was
beginning to fill. From this time forward every effort
was devoted to getting provisions, &c, on the ice, and it
was not desisted from until the water had risen to the
spar deck, the ship being heeled to starboard about 30°.
The entire starboard side of the spar-deck was submerged,
the rail being under water and the water-line reaching to
the hatch combings. The starboard side was evidently
230
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
broken in abreast of the mainmast and the ship was
settling fast. Our ensign had been hoisted at the mizzen
and every preparation made for abandoning, and at 8
p.m. everybody was ordered to leave the ship. Assem-
bling on the floe we dragged all our boats and provisions
clear of bad cracks and prepared to camp down for the
night. Took an account of what we had and found the
following :
4,950 lbs. pemmican (American).
1,120 lbs. hard bread.
260 gallons alcohol.
100 lbs. cut loaf sugar.
400 lbs. extra crew sugar.
100 lbs. tea.
92J- lbs. mutton soup.
176 lbs. mutton broth.
150 lbs. Liebig's extract beef.
252 lbs. canned chicken.
144 lbs. canned turkey.
36 lbs. green corn.
12£ lbs. pigs' feet.
32 lbs. tongue.
42 lbs. onions.
18 lbs. pickles.
120 lbs. chocolate.
36 lbs. cocoa.
205 lbs. tobacco.
48 lbs. veal.
44 lbs. ham.
150 lbs. cheese.
210 lbs. ground coffee.
60 lbs. whole coffee.
75 bottles malt extract.
J bbl. lime juice.
2,000 rounds Eemington ammu-
nition.
1 gallon brandy.
3 gallons whiskey.
2 bottles whiskey in lime
juice.
7 bottles brandy.
First cutter.
Second cutter.
First whale-boat.
Iron dingy.
McClintock dingy.
6 tents sleeping bags.
33 knapsacks, packed.
5 cooking stoves.
2 boat sleds.
4 McClintock sleds.
2 St. Michael sleds.
2 medicine chests and medi-
cine.
Sunday, June 12th (Monday, June lSth). — At 1 p.m.
we were turned out by the ice opening in the midst of our
THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE. 231
camp. All our gear and belongings were transported to
a place of safety, and again piped down at 2 a.m.,
leaving a man on watch. At 1 a.m. the mizzenmast
went by the board, and the ship was so far heeled over
that the lower yard-arms were resting on the ice. At 3
a.m. the ship had sunk until her smoke-pipe was nearly
awash. At 4 a.m. the Jeannette went down. First
righting to an even keel she slowly sank. The maintop-
mast fell by the board to starboard ; then the f oretopmast
and finally the mainmast near the main- truss. When she
finally sank the foremast was all that was standing. At
9 a.m. called all hands and breakfasted, after which we
collected all the clothing and arranged it for distribution.
Besides the contents of the packed knapsacks and the
clothing in wear we find we have the following :
28 woollen overshirts, 20 trousers (cloth),
2-4 woollen drawers, 8 fur blankets,
27 woollen undershirts, 18 woollen blankets,
24 sack coats, 13 skin parkies,
8 overcoats,
and they were divided among all hands as required,
much of it being in excess. * * * Everybody being
bright and cheerful, with plenty to eat and plenty of
clothes. Even music is not forgotten. Lauterbach sere-
naded us to-night with a mouth harmonium. A work
tent was set up for my use ; kept the silk flag flying.
Temperature about 23° all day. Men visited the wreck ;
they found one chair on the ice and some oars and spar
planks. Chipp better ; Danenhower lively. At 9:45 p.m.
I read divine service.
Monday, June \Wi. — Called all hands at seven a.m.;
breakfast at eight. Turned to at nine, and set to work
232 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
mounting first and second cutters and whale-boats on
their travelling sleds. I have concluded to remain where
we are until all our preparations are well made, and
then to start properly. We have provisions enough to
live upon for some time without impairing our sixty days'
allowance for going south. Our sick are progressing
favorably, and this delay will also tend to their advan-
tage. Sweetman visited the place where the ship sank,
but nothing could be seen but a signal chest floating bot-
tom up. There is much water sky in all directions ; the
air is very damp and raw. We all slept very well last
night, being both warm and comfortable. During the
afternoon the boats were mounted on the sleds and got
ready for hauling. Between time we shifted the camp to
the westward, as we were too near the edge of the floe in
case of accident. Chipp's tent was placed to the rear and
to windward, so that he might not be kept awake by the
" snorers," as was the case last night. Then we moved all
our boats to the front of the tents and the provisions to
the front of the boats, and had supper in our new loca-
tion. We had carried out of the ship all the drinking
water we had on board, and made it last until Sunday
night, but now we are, of course, down to what we can
scrape up from the ice. We select the oldest and highest
hummocks and scrape off the broken-down crystals when
we can find them ; but, of course, the sun has not had
power enough yet to do any great amount of melting.
The snow, or rather ice, is fresh to the taste, but the Doc-
tor, by a nitrate of silver test, finds it much too salty.
However, we cannot help ourselves, and with lime juice,
which we take daily, must try to avert the danger. Just
now we are living royally on good things and not working
very hard, and we are in glorious health, except for some
THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE. 033
occasional traces of the old lead poisoning suspicions.
Temperature at eight p.m. 18°, and very damp.
Tuesday, June ltth. — Called all hands at seven, break-
fasted and turned to by nine a.m. Then set two men
from each tent, under Melville' s direction, to get together
our sixty days' provisions. The Doctor with one man set
to work dividing up (and fortifying) the lime juice among
three water breakers. Dunbar, with two men, overhauled
and relashed the three McClintock sledges to get them
ready for stowage and loading. The balance of the men
continue the work of making extra foot-nips, reducing
sleeping bags and making such additions to their comfort
as are possible. Our sick list is not progressing favorably.
Alexia was very sick all night with stomach ache, groan-
ing all the time and vomiting violently. Kuehne is quite
sick, and both he and Alexia are laid up in their sleeping
bags. Chipp seems brighter. Weather clear, bright and
pleasant. Temperature at ten a.m., 10° in the shade ;
minimum during night, 12°. To the south the openings
in the ice are shown by light masses of thin, bright fog
sweeping away before the wind. Barometer, 30. 37 — but
I am a little suspicious that my pocket barometer is out of
order. At two commenced loading up five sleds with pro-
visions. Divided over 3,960 pounds pemmican and 200
gallons alcohol among the sleds, and then, having our
weekly ration bags ready, we switched off to fill them.
The daily allowance of tea is one ounce ; coffee, two
ounces ; sugar, two ounces. Sights obtained at six p.m.
place us in 153° 58' 45"— a drift since the 12th of 13J miles
north, 84° west. Thus far we are getting along very well.
Everybody is bright and cheerful and our camp has a
lively look. The arrangement is as follows : —
15
234
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
^ef§
Dunbar "
"Melville"
Ambler,
o
.V„ „ 2ndC
IsfCutter 1 whale Boat 2ndCutter
f T I T
Sled
SlecL
Sled
Sled
After supper no work was done except putting two
rifles apart for each, tent — ten in all — which are to be car-
ried in the boats — four in the first cutter, four in the
second and two in the whale-boat.
Wednesday, June 15. — Weather dull, gloomy and
foggy, but after ten a.m., it cleared away to a bright
sunshiny day. The night has been cold (10°). I did not
sleep well, having found it impossible to keep my shoul-
ders covered by my sleeping bag, but everybody else seems
to be all right and to have slept well. The sick are as
follows : — Chipp is better ; he says he has slept well and
feels bright. Danenhower goes around with his game eye
darkened and does a number of things. Alexia has had
a bad night and is quite sick this morning. Kuehne still
remains shut up in his tent. During the forenoon we
were engaged in bagging as much tea, coffee and sugar
as possible, and in dividing the weights among our five
sleds. This was completed by eleven a.m., and we then
THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE. 235
set to work to lash and secure the loads. The distribution
of weights was as follows : —
No.l. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. 5.
765 pounds pemmican 720 720 720 720
40 gallons alcohol 40 40 40 40
36 pounds Liebig 36 — — 18
61 pounds 0. L. sugar — — — 61
60 pounds X. C. sugar — — — —
4 bags bread 4 4 4 2
30 pounds ground coffee 30 — 30 —
90 pounds tea — — 60 —
10 pounds X. C. sugar — — — —
1,659 1,318 1,252 1,342 1,325
On the ice yet, 30 pounds roast coffee, 30 pounds ground
coffee, 1 bag of bread, which must go in the boats. Still
short of sixty days' provisions, viz : 315 pounds pemmi-
can, 43 pounds tea, 55 pounds sugar and 37 pounds
coffee. We are, of course, leaving behind us many pro-
visions, as well as our two dingies and one St. Michael's
sled. As our progress will necessarily be slow, I am of
the opinion that each encampment for a week after our
start will be near enough to our present location to enable
us to send back a dog sledge each halt to bring forward
our supplies for the succeeding twenty-four hours. In
this case we shall not break in upon our packed sledges.
Dinner at one p.m. Turned to at two p.m. Sleds all
lashed, and I notice No. 2 (Chipp's) has a sled flag already
mounted with the name " Lizzie." Upon calling Mnder-
mann's attention to our having none he informed me that
ours was under way and that he should like to call it
" Sylvie," to which I had naturally no objection. Sights
to-day place us in latitude 77° 17 north, longitude 153°
236 ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
42' 30" east — a drift since yesterday of three and three-
quarter miles, 72° north. Temperature at six p.m., 19° ;
wind northeast ; force 2. During the afternoon I issued
the following order :
United States Cutter Jeannette, In the Ice, )
Latitude 77° 17' North, Longitude 153° 42' >■
rftBnrm -, East, Arctic Ocean, June 15th, 1881. ;
[_URDER. J
When a start is made to drag our sleds to the southward the
clothing allowance for each officer and man will be limited to
what he actually wears and the contents of his packed knapsack.
Each may dress in skins or not, as he pleases, at the start, but
having made his choice he must be ready to abide by it. Extra
outside clothing of any kind (except moccasins) cannot be taken.
The contents of the packed knapsacks are to be as follows :
2 pairs blanket nips or duffle 1 skull cap.
nips. 1 comforter.
2 pairs stockings. 1 pair snow spectacles.
1 pair moccasins. 1 plug tobacco.
1 cap. 1 pipe.
2 pairs mittens. 2 rounds ammunition.
1 undershirt. 24 wax matches.
1 drawers.
Soap, towels, thread and needles at discretion, an extra pair of
moccasins, making five in all, with its foot nips, may be carried
in the sleeping bag, but nothing else is to be put in the sleeping
bag. Each officer will see that the allowance is not exceeded in
any particular.
Sled No. 1 stow sleeping bags, tent, knapsacks and mess-gear in
first cutter.
Sled No. 2 stow as above in second cutter.
Sled No. 3 stow as above in whale-boat.
Sled No. 4 stow as above in second cutter.
Sled No. 5 stow as above in whale-boat.
THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE. 237
If at any time we go in the boats —
Sled crew No. 1 goes in the first cutter.
Sled crew No. 2 goes in the second cutter.
Sled crew No. 3 goes in the whale-boat.
Sled crew No. 4 goes in first cutter.
Surgeon, Mr. Cole, and cabin steward in whale-boat.
Eemainder of No. 5 in second cutter.
Further orders or modification of the above will be given as
necessary. Very respectfully,
GEORGE W. DE LONG,
Lieutenant United States Navy, Commanding Arctic Expedi-
tion.
An almost cloudless sky and in consequence a broiling
hot sun shining down on the floe makes us very uncom-
fortable. We are all terribly sunburned, and our noses,
lips and cheeks are all beginning to get sore. Our eyes
are all right yet, however.
Thursday, June 16th. — De Long records long streaks of
water sky to the southward and southwest. He also
permits the men to each take half a blanket in anticipation
of cold. At half-past four Mr. Dunbar is sent ahead
southward to mark out a good road, and then the Captain
issued the following order :
United States Cutter Jeannetle, In the Ice, )
Latitude 77° 18' North, Longitude 153° 25' [•
East, Arctic Ocean, June \§th, 1881. )
We shall start to the southward at six p.m. Friday, June Vt
(Saturday, June 18), and our travelling thereafter is to be done
between six p.m. and six a.m. The order of advance will be as
follows :
First — All hands drag the first cutter and dogs the No. 1 sled.
Second — Starboard watch drag the second cutter, port watch
drag No. 4 sled and dogs drag No. 2 sled.
238
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Third — Port watch drag the whale-boat, starboard watch drag
No. 3 sled and dogs drag No. 5 sled.
Alexia's three dogs will drag the St. Michael's sled ; Kuehne,
Charley, Tung Sing and Alexia to report to and accompany Lieu-
tenant Chipp. The daily routine will be as follows :
Call all hands, 4:30 p.m.
Breakfast, 5 p.m.
Break camp, 5:40 p.m.
Under way, 6 p.m.
Halt, 11:30 .p.m
Dinner, midnight.
Pack up, 12:40 a.m.
Under way, 1 a.m.
Halt, pitch camp, 6 a.m.
Lime juice and supper, 6:30
A.M
Set watch, pipe down, turn
in, 7 a.m.
Course, S. by E. \ E. mag.
As long as it is possible to do so the St. Michael's sled will be
sent back each morning to bring up provisions now in this camp
in order that we may not have to break in upon our sled stores.
But when we do commence upon our loaded provisions the follow-
ing will be the ration table :
Breakfast.
4 oz. pemmican,
1 oz. ham,
3 lb. bread,
2 oz. coffee,
2-3 oz. sugar.
Dinner. Supper.
8 oz. pemmican, 4 oz. pemmican,
1 oz. Liebig, 1 oz. tongue,
i oz. tea, \ oz. tea,
2-3 oz. sugar, 2-3 oz. sugar,
\ lb. bread.
GEOKGE W. DE LONG,
etc., etc., etc.
Captain De Long continues : During the afternoon the
sleds and boats were each supplied with flags.
The Jeannette carries my silk flag.
The second cutter Hiram carries flag " Hiram."
The whale boat Bosey carries flag "Rosey."
~No. 1 sled carries square blue flag " Sylvie," with the
motto, ' ' Nil desperandum. ' '
THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE. 239
No. 2 carries swallow tail " Lizzie."
No. 3 carries flag .
No. 4 carries white flag with red Maltese cross ; motto,
"In hoc signo vinces."
No. 5 carries flag " Maud ;" motto, " Comme je trouve."
Then called all hands to muster and read the foregoing
order. We are now, I believe, ready, and will start at six
p.^r. to-morrow. The St. Michael's sled was loaded, offi-
cers divided into watches, and next day (Friday) De
Long prepared a record, to be left in a water breaker on
the ice, giving a history of the Jeannetttf s cruise, her dis-
coveries of the two islands (Jeannette and Henrietta), etc.
After it was written it was carefully sewed in a piece of
black rubber and placed in an empty boat breaker,
"which, left in the ice, may get somewhere."
CHAPTER XX
THE EETEEAT.
Then the start was made, and is thus recorded in Be
Long' s journal :
" At 5 p.m. called all hands again, and as soon as pos-
sible had supper, or, as it might be called now, breakfast.
Broke camp at 5:50 p.m., and though 6 was the time for
starting it was 6:20 p.m. before we got under way. All
hands started with the first cutter, while the dogs, man-
aged by Anequin, attempted the ~No. 1 sled. The cutter
went easily enough, but No. 1 sled was more than a match
for our dogs. Occasionally stopping, we lent a hand to
start the sled from a deep rut, and finally, seeing the
necessity of more force, I detached six men from the
cutter and went back with them to help the ~No. 1 sled.
And to this the origin of our day's trouble may be re-
ferred. When I sent Mr. Dunbar ahead yesterday it was
to plant flags for our first day's journey, and upon his
return I could see but three flags, and supposed there
were no more. Melville accordingly dumped the pro-
visions at the third flag as the end of our day's journey.
Upon the cutter reaching the third flag Melville wanted
to stop, but Dunbar informed him there was a fourth flag
beyond, and that that was the end of the first day's
journey. Of course I could not be everywhere on a road
one and a half miles long, and Melville in his uncertainty
about my wishes had to be guided by Dunbar's idea, so
240
THE RETREAT. 241
that the first cutter, instead of halting by our provisions,
was carried on beyond them, to my extreme annoyance
when I learned of it. Meanwhile the six men and myself
went back to the No. 1 sled, and by almost superhuman
exertions got it along a quarter of a mile. We then got
the second cutter and the whale-boat along to where we
had left No. 1 sled, and while wondering what kept
Melville and the men away so long I saw that Chipp (who
was ahead) had come to a standstill. Hastening toward
him I found that the ice had opened, and that our remain-
ing effects would have to be unloaded and ferried over.
Here was a nice fix. Sending back at once for the light
dingy, I got Chipp and the hospital sled over and sent
him to bring the cutter party back. Time was slipping
away, and all that the six men and myself could do, with
the assistance of the dogs, was to get the cutter and whale-
boat with No. 1 and No. 2 sleds as far along as the ferry.
By 10 p.m. the first-cutter party returned, and we at once
launched the two remaining boats, hauled them across and
got them up on the ice on the other side. To avoid un-
loading the sleds a road was sought and found higher up,
where, by filling in with some large pieces of ice, we man-
aged to get an uncertain way of crossing the opening lead.
While so crossing we doubled under the right runner of
No. 1 sled, and had to stop lest we should ruin it. No. 2
and No. 5 each broke a runner, the tenons of the uprights
breaking short off. And, in fine, by the time we had
crossed this lead (12:10 a.m. on Saturday, June 18th) we
had three disabled sleds, were already an hour late for
our dinner, had our provisions half a mile further on, and
the mess gear and sleeping gear of No. 1 sled half a mile
further beyond still. However, there was no help for it,
so buckling to our two boats we started on, and by
242 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
1:30 A.M. had reached the black flag and our provisions.
During the advance with the first cutter Lauterbach had
doubled up with cramps, Lee frequently was falling down
doubled up with cramps, for which he can assign no cause
except lead-poison. At 7 we had supper, and at 8 a.m.
set the watch and piped down— a weary lot of mor-
tals."
Next day De Long writes: "All hands seem bright
and cheerful ; none of us are stiff after our hard work,
strange to say. The sick are as follows : Chipp, used up
about the legs ; Alexia better ; steward better ; Kuehne
better. Our experience thus far has not been very en-
couraging. We have had such terrific roads, such soft
and deep snow and such ugly ice openings that our diffi-
culties have been increased. The necessities of the case
have led to overloading the sleds, and, though they would
have gone well enough on smooth ice, the snow would
stop these or any other sleds. Twenty-eight men and
twenty- three dogs lying back with all their strength could
only start one 1,600-pound sled a few feet each time, and
when sliding down a hill she would plunge into a snow-
bank, and it was terrible work getting her out. Though
the temperature was between twenty and twenty-five we
were in our shirt sleeves and perspiring as on a hot sum-
mer day. I see very clearly that we must run with lighter
loads and go over the same ground of tener. I hoped to be
able to advance our boats and provisions on three separate
hauls, but I must be satisfied if we now do it in six."
Next day, Sunday, most of the provisions from the orig-
inal camp were brought up and distributed among the
sleds, and on Monday the time was occupied in bringing
up the remainder, and on Tuesday morning, at eight
o'clock, De Long writes, they were only one and a
THE RETREAT. 243
half miles from the first starting place of Friday, the
17th. That night it rained heavily and no advance was
made.
De Long writes : " At no time of the year is travelling
worse than at present. In the winter or spring months it
is, of course, cold and comfortless, but it is, nevertheless,
dry. In the autumn or late summer it is favorable, be-
cause the melted snow has all drained off the hard ice,
and the travelling is excellent. But just now the snow is
soft enough to sink into, and progress is almost im-
possible, and when a rainy day sets in our misery is com-
plete. Even the dogs cower under the boats for shelter
like hens, or snuggle up against the tent doors begging
for admission. On shore the pattering of the rain on the
roof has a pleasant sound to those within, but out here it
is far from pleasant. No fires, of course, except for cook-
ing, and no place to dry clothes, and little streams of
water trickling down on you from the tent ventilating
holes make your own wetness more wet. These halts and
long camps have shown me that several of our party have
been carrying more than I can permit. It is astonishing
how many ' little things that don' t weigh anything ' have
crept in, and it is equally surprising how great is their
aggregate weight. I shall have one more clearing out be-
fore leaving this camp."
Tuesday, June 21st. — At half -past two a.m. the rain
ceased. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead to make a road where
necessary and to place flags. At half -past three a.m. I
took a narta (sled) and nine dogs, and with Kaach carried
forward 450 pounds of pemmican and fifty pounds of
Liebig. Mr. Dunbar had cut two roads, one through
piled up hummocks and another through a broken ridge.
There is an ugly place where the ice has cracked and
244 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
opened to a foot in width, and if it opens further, requir-
ing bridging or ferrying, we shall again have our hands
full. Called all hands at six p.m.; at half -past seven got
under way ; sent Melville ahead with Nos. 1 and 2 sleds,
and two dog sleds and Ericksen and Leach with the
other nartas to the old camp to bring forward the
remainder of the stores. Left the camp pitched and
sleeping gear and mess gear convenient to the boats,
in the event of our having to dine here. The Doctor,
with the sick, remained, of course, with the tents. By
half-past eight p.m. Melville and his party and the two
advanced dog sleds had come back to camp, having left
the first load at the crack in the ice mentioned this morn-
ing, it having widened, as I feared it would, during our
sleep. By nine the second instalment was sent along, and
by half-past nine the camp was broken, and the whole
boat, with two more dog loads, under way. Mr. Dunbar
and two men remained ahead to try and get a large piece
of ice down to bridge the opening. I had instructed Mel-
ville, in case Mr. Dunbar had managed to bridge the open-
ing, to get all our traps through the gap, and as he did
not return from the first cutter I concluded this was
being done. As I was anxious to get forward to see the
state of things ahead I sent Ericksen and Leach back
with three dogs for the dingy, and placing ~No. l's mess
gear in the dog sled I started on with three dogs. This
brought us to
Wednesday, June 22d. — I had hardly gone a quarter of
a mile when I came to an ice opening, and, in spite of my
strongest efforts, the dogs scattered across some lumps,
capsized the sled, dragged me in and sent all my mess
gear flying, having accomplished which and reached the
other side themselves they sat down and howled to their
THE RETREAT. 245
hearts' content. Floundering across I managed to col-
lect my scattered property and get safely over and then
righted and dragged out the sled. As soon as resistance
was removed away went the dogs again. Eeaching the
ice opening which had occasioned the delay at one a.m.
I found Melville afloat and adrift on an ice island, with
all the boats and sleds, nothing having been got through
the gap. I shouted to him to get dinner and I would get
to him later when the dingy came up. But he managed
to get a cake of ice dragged to me and I ferried across
with my dog team and mess gear. At once we set to work
getting floes in place as a bridge and before sitting down
to dinner we got two sleds and a lot of dog loads through
the gap on to the heavy ice beyond. At half past one we
sat down to dinner, and at two Ericksen and Leach ar-
rived with the dingy. At twenty minutes past two a.m.,
turned to and ran the whale-boat and second cutter through
the gap. Then sending Melville back with his party for
the first cutter, Ericksen, Leach and myself pushed on two
dog teams, with pemmican and bread, as far as the flag.
When we got back to the gap the Doctor and the sick
were adrift, the ice having opened out during our ab-
sence. Dragged cakes of ice down and made a crazy
bridge, over which the sick walked, and then we got the
medical stores across, and after bridging, dragging, dig-
ging and filling in we had everything, first cutter included,
through the gap by six a.m., and on the hard ice. Mel-
ville had to launch the first cutter and paddle her part of
the way, but he got her up in time to take a share in the
work of the rear guard. At twenty minutes past seven
we had supper, and a more tired and hungry set of
mortals could not well be found. We got ready to bag —
having come only about half a mile in ten hours' hard
246 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
work. At nine a.m. piped down. Slept till six p.m., when
all hands were called. Sick, so so. Chipp has had a bad
night and is mnch the worse for wear. Alexia is so
easily upset by a little stomach ache as to lose his grip
altogether. Lauterbach looks as if he were going to
attend a funeral any moment and must keep his counte-
nance to the proper point of solemnity. Danenhower's
trouble is of course his blindness. Mr. Dunbar begins to
wear again, and I have cautioned him to be careful of
himself for a few days and not to exhaust all his strength.
At fifty-five minutes past eleven p.m. the marked halting
place was reached by the sleds — the first time in our ex-
perience we were able to get in one half day to the in-
dicated place, have dinner on time and get ready for a
new start after dinner. This was because we were on
solid ice and had no openings.
T/iursday, June 23d. — Sat down to dinner at quarter
past twelve a.m., and turned to at quarter past one. At
half past two the sky cleared and the sun came out
brightly, the fog rolling away magically. At seven camp
pitched. This is the first really good day' s work, and
yet I do not think we have made good more than a mile
and a half, though working seven hours steadily. To the
southward of us the ice is terribly confused, and presents
no chance for an advance as yet. But no one can tell
what six hours may bring forth, and when we get up
again we may see something. Longitude is about 152°
east. At half past eight a.m. piped down, and at six
p.m. called all hands and breakfasted ; at seven sent
Mr. Dunbar ahead through the most likely looking part
of the rough ice in front of us to try to find a road. At
eight started ahead on our day's work, and, to save un-
necessary detailed description, I will here mention once
THE RETREAT. 2 -4 7"
for all our manner of procedure. The daily routine and
manner of progress marked out on the 16th has had to be
abandoned for several reasons, chiefest of which was the
impossibility of telling one minute how the ice would be
the next in disarranging plans, and next in importance
because men cannot do this kind of work ten hours each
day without breaking down. By and by, perhaps, when
our loads are lighter, we may be able to do it, but just now
it is out of the question.
Our route having been indicated by several black flags
placed after a halt or before a start Mr. Dunbar goes
ahead at eight p.m. to make sure that no bridges have
become necessary in the meantime. Then right after him
goes Melville, with nearly all hands dragging the heavy
sleds. No. 1 sled (already christened the Walrus)
requires all his force, but generally he can start two of
the others at one time. Ericksen and Leach run two dog
sleds, trip after trip, all day, while I load and occasion-
ally run one myself ahead to mark progress and indicate
the route. The loaded sleds being up Melville's party
come back for the boats. I then start the Doctor ahead
with the sick, to go as far as the heavy sleds have been
dragged. I then get the medical sled and run a load up
to the same place. By this time the boats are up, cooks
are ordered there to get dinner, while Melville and his
party drag the sleds ahead another stage. Then, mid-
night (Friday, June 24), dinner succeeds ; at one we turn
to, drag the boats where we left the sleds, then along go
the Doctor and the sick to that place, then ahead go the
sleds again, again the boats, the dog sleds, and finally at
half -past five or six a.m. I bring up the rear guard ; we
prepare for supper, pitch camp and the dog sleds get up
with the last load. At seven we sup, at eight pipe down,
248 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
to be called at six p.m. We therefore haul nine hours a
day, sleep and rest ten, meal hours three ; the other two
hours are occupied in pitching camp, serving out and
cooking food, breaking camp and marking the road ahead.
There is no work in the world harder than this sledging,
and with my two line officers constantly on the sick list I
have much on my hands. In Melville I have a strong
support, as well as a substitute for them, and as long as
he remains as he is, strong and well, I shall get along all
right. The Doctor is willing and anxious to pitch in and
haul like a seaman, but I consider him more necessary
for the sick, and have directed him to remain with and
accompany them.
To-day we have done very well, having made one and a
quarter miles (estimated) good. The ice opened on us
twice, and gave us and the dog sleds some trouble. The
heavy sleds had gone on before the ice opened. One dog
sled got half overboard, and we had to cut the dogs adrift
to save them from being drowned, while two of us held
the sleds back. The prospect for our next start is en-
couraging. We are now on a piece of old ice which seems
to extend for several miles yet. To-day has been unusu-
ally disagreeable on account of water on the surface of
the ice. Frequently the men broke through over their
knees, and dragging under these circumstances is hard
work. In parts here and there around water has formed,
and, though the low temperature freezes it at night, the
sun thaws the ice in the middle of the day and we sud-
denly flounder in. A minute later the water will drain
off to the sea. We are still in the dark as to our position.
Chipp is very weak, only just strong enough to be able to
walk from place to place by easy stages. I am very seri-
ously disturbed about him. Lauterbach was restored to
THE RETREAT. 249
duty yesterday evening. Alexia still sick ; unable to do
any duty.
Star informs me that he has often come across written
papers in our provision packages, and he has brought me
this one, which he found yesterday among some cof-
fee : —
This is to express my best wishes for your futherance and
success in your great undertaking. Hoping when you peruse
these lines you will be thinking of the comfortable homes you left
behind you for the purpose of aiding science. If you can make it
convenient drop me a line. My address is G. J. K., Post Office
box — , New York city.
Saturday, June 25th, found us getting ready for dinner,
which we sat down to at one a.m. At midnight I had got
a meridian altitude, which to my amazement gave me a
latitude of 77° 46' north. There was no mistake in the
observation, and I went over my figures a half dozen
times to find any mistake. But each time 77° 46' was the
result. I overhauled my sextant, but that was all right,
and my amazement increased. To start in 77° 18' north,
travel south a week, and then find one's self twenty-eight
miles further north than the starting point is enough to
make one thoughtful and anxious. For a long time I
pondered, and for the moment was inclined to attribute
the strange result to some extraordinary refraction ; but,
upon looking back to my rejected Sumner of the 23rd, I
found that the intersection gave 77° 46' and so was more
anxious than ever. At half -past four a.m. and half-past
seven a.m. I got another Sumner, and this gave me 77°
43' for a latitude, very rough means of making a skeleton
chart accounting in part for the difference from the lower
meridian altitude. More anxious than ever I determined
to sit up until noon and get the upper meridian altitude
16
250 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
before committing myself to plans for the future. At
noon I got a meridian altitude and this gave me latitude
77° 42', and of this at least there is no doubt. My Sumner
of this morning was accurate and my midnight observa-
tion was out only by the greater refraction of such a low
altitude. I therefore accept the situation and shall
modify my plans to this extent — instead of making a south
course I shall incline more to the southwest, for as the
line of our drift is northwest, a southwest course will
cross it more rapidly than a south and bring us quicker
to the ice edge. * * *
Such a rough country as we have before us requires
more careful examination than a short run ahead can
give, and I have therefore sent Mr. Dunbar ahead
to seek a road out of our difficulty, while I let the
camp remain "on their oars." After our hard day's
work of yesterday this additional rest is welcome, and if
a good road is found we can make a long step this after-
noon.
Sunday, June 26th, 1:15 a.m. — Mr. Dunbar returned
with bridge-makers and two dog sleds. I pushed ahead.
Melville accidentally fell in the water and got wet to his
waist, and during the morning's work the Walrus (No. 1
sled) fell in, sticking her nose well under the ice. How-
ever, she was got out. Though the road generally was
better than the day before no less than five bridges had to
be built, and consequently when, at half -past six a.m., I
halted and pitched camp we had made only half a mile
good south-southwest. It has been blistering hot since
midnight, though the thermometer marked only twenty-
three degrees in the sun. The sky was cloudless. A light
south-southwest breeze fanned along, but we all suffered
from the heat. Our hands and faces are all swollen and
THE RETREAT. 251
blistered, and my hands are very painful. At half -past
seven a.m. had supper ; at half -past eight a.m. read
divine service, and at nine a.m. piped down.
Monday, June 27th, 1 a.m. — Turned to at five minutes
past two a.m., and from this time to seven a.m. we had
the hardest time we had had yet. We succeeded in
advancing only half a mile further south-southwest,
making one and a quarter miles in eleven hours' steady
work. Just after leaving our halting place we had an ice
opening to cross twenty feet in width, and while we were
bridging it it opened twenty feet more. By great effort
we succeeded in dragging in three large pieces for
bridges, and by herculean efforts got our sleds and boats
over, launching the first and second cutters. Beyond this
(three-eighths of a mile) we had another ice opening, about
sixty feet in width, and to bridge this we had literally to
drag an ice island thirty feet thick and hold it in place.
Hardly had we done this when the lead widened, and we
had to scour around for more huge blocks to serve our
purpose. There seems to be a general slackness to the ice
and a streaming away without any resistance. It is
hardly late enough to find leads of any length, but there
are openings enough to give us serious trouble. To work
like horses all day for ten or eleven hours and get ahead
only a mile is rather discouraging, and the knowledge
that we are very likely going three miles north-northwest
to every mile we make southwest keeps one anxious. Mel-
ville and the Doctor are the only ones to whom I com-
municated our latitude, and to whom I intend it shall be
confined ; for no doubt great discouragement, if not entire
loss of zeal, would ensue were such a disagreeable bit of
news known. I dodge Chipp, Danenhower and Dunbar
lest they should ask me questions. Thus far everybody
252 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
is bright and cheerful, and singing is going on all around.
I hope onr good health and spirits may long continue.
Chipp is improving in health.
Wednesday, June 29th. — Going ahead with the dog
sleds and Mr. Dunbar we suddenly came to water, and
peering into the fog it seemed as if we had some exten-
sive lead ahead. Going back hurriedly I sent the dingy
ahead for an exploration, but, alas ! it was fruitless. The
favorable lead which we thought we had turned out to be
another water opening, seventy-five feet wide, which we
had to bridge. By great good fortune a large piece was
handy, and by hard hauling Dunbar, Sharwell and I suc-
ceeded in getting it in place, and a fortunate closing of
the lead a foot or two jammed it in as a solid bridge.
Unfortunately openings were occurring in our rear and
we had more bridging to do there. Never was there such
luck. No sooner do we get our advance across one lead
than a new one opens behind it and makes us hang back
lest our rear should be caught. By the time we have got
a second sled ahead more openings have occurred, and we
are in for a time. These openings are always east and
west. By no means, seemingly, can we get one north and
south, so that we might make something by them, and
these east and west lanes meander away to narrow veins
between piled up masses, over which there can no road be
built, and between which no boat can be got. It is no un-
common thing for us to have four leads to bridge in half
a mile, and when we remember that Melville and his
party have to make always six and sometimes seven trips
the amount of coming and going is fearful to contemplate.
Add to this the flying trips of the dog sleds and the mov-
ing forward of the sick at a favorable moment, and it is
not strange that we dread meeting an ice opening. This
THE RETREAT. 253
very old and hard ice is beyond doubt paleocrystic. I
measured one floe and found it thirty-two feet nine inches
thick, and where it is not mud stained it is rounded up in
hummocks, resembling alabaster. Over this we sledded
and dragged well enough, though it was, as the men said,
"a rocky road to Dublin." I encountered one piece
which was sixteen feet thick, which I am inclined to
think was a single growth, for not a line of union of layers
could be seen.
Danenhower came to me to-day requesting and urging
his being given duty to perform, claiming that he could
do a man's work by hauling, &c. Inasmuch as I con-
sider him unfit to perform any duty whatever, and as he
would be an impediment and hindrance to anything he
attempted on account of his one eye, I refused positively
to assign him to any duty whatever until he was dis-
charged from the sick list. Chipp seems to be gaining
strength. The temperature has been steady at, 30° all
day, but it seems much colder. We always get our feet
wet early in the morning, and that keeps us uncomfort-
able until we stop to camp. A thick fog seems to pene-
trate to our bones all day.
Thursday, June 30th. — Toward midnight we had ob-
served a low line of black cloud in the west, extending
from the southwest to the northwest, and it promised a
rising fog. By the time we had halted it had spread
around in its accustomed way, north and south, and by
1:30 a.m. the sky was entirely overcast, a wet, damp,
fog, like fine rain, shutting in everything. The daily recur-
rence of the phenomenon makes me believe that we are
drawing near open water, for I hardly believe that such
a fog could arise from ice openings. Daily toward mid-
night the sun' s power wanes and the water begins to give
254 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
off vapor slowly, which is condensed on being carried by
the wind over the cold ice, and is deposited or carried
along as fog, &c. Generally speaking, when we turn out,
at 6 p.m., the sun is shining brightly, and when we go
to bed, at 9 a.m., it is shining again. But between mid-
night and camping time it is foggy enough. After dinner
— 1:50 a.m. — we pushed ahead again. By going ahead
with Mr. Dunbar I managed to mark out a good, long
route of one and a half miles, and terminating in a good,
flat floe piece. But it required some little bridging and
considerable road-making and managing, and a round-
about road of live miles. However, we accomplished it
with no other accident than breaking one St. Michael's
sled and springing a crossbar of the first cutter's sled.
On top of the old ice we have encountered many pools of
water, which seem to me as being the same kind as those
mentioned by Captain Nares, and from which the Alerfs
people drank steadily. Seeing some of these pools freeze
to-day at 32° I imagined they might be fresh water, but
the Doctor tested some with nitrate of silver and found it
contained much salt !
Friday, July 1st. — Records good ice road, but that the
rain commenced to fall at 6:30 a.m. During the whole
of our sleeping time the rain was falling in showers, and
when we were called the pattering of the drops could be
heard on our tent. Our bags are, of course, wet again,
and in some of these, mine and Ericksen' s particularly,
the feet end is as wet as a sop. Ericksen, Boyd and
Kaach turned in with dry foot-gear, and turned out wet
to the knees. I managed to get my feet doubled up to a
dry place and slept with tolerable comfort for some hours
until my bones commenced to ache with the infernal
hardness of the ice on which we were lying. Snow would
THE RETREAT. 255
be softer, of course, but the heat from our bodies would
soon melt it and we would be lying in a pool of water be-
fore long. There is so much snow water all over the ice
that we cannot find a place dry enough to make our rub-
ber blanket a sufficient protection. The dinner time is our
most uncomfortable part of the twenty-four hours. Our
feet and legs are wet in the first half hour of our marching,
but as long as we move ahead we do not mind it, but when
we halt for dinner our feet get cold and generally remain
so until we camp at night and change our foot-gear.
Sunday, July 3d. — It took us until 12:30 a.m. to get
all our sleds and boats up to the beginning of smooth ice
(7. e., ice with two feet of slush and water over it and holes
where you suddenly sink to your knees), and then we
halted for dinner. The sun now began to try to force its
way through the clouds and fog, and it seemed to grow
much colder. To avoid the wind as much as possible the
tents were slewed around across the wind, and we huddled
under their lee while we ate our dinner. * * * At
9 a.m. read the articles of war and had divine service.
At 9:30 piped down. Everybody is bright and cheerful,
and apparently (except Chipp and Danenhower) in excel-
lent health. We have abundance of food, good appetites,
sleep well, and, as Mr. Cole expresses it, he "seems to get
more spring in him every day." My sights place us in
77° 31', and 151° 41' east — a change of position since June
25th of thirteen miles south, 30° west. As our distance
made by account is twelve miles it would seem that we
have had no current against us. But, of course, I cannot
tell. We may have been set down that much in three
days by our northerly winds, and, therefore, I must
accept the position as simply showing where we are, and
push on for the edge of the ice.
256 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Monday, July 4th. — At 1:45 a.m. halted for dinner.
At 3 sharp set out again, and though some little confu-
sion was imminent because the Walrus took the wrong
road we avoided all serious delay, and by 6:20 a.m. had
advanced everything one mile, making the, to us, unprec-
edented distance of two and a quarter miles in eight hours
and twenty minutes. For the last quarter of a mile our
course lay over some beautiful hard ice, parallel to a
narrow lead, and we were able to send two sleds ahead at
a time, and the second cutter and whale-boat together,
making the first cutter our only " all-hands" haul. This
reduced the number of trips from seven to four, a great
saving, though possible only for short stages, because
such work soon exhausted the men's breath. Having
been sixteen days under way we have sensibly reduced
the amount of our provisions hauled on the dog sleds,
and, in consequence, these sleds got home some little time
in advance of the boats and heavy sleds. So I have or-
dered some redistribution of weights. * * * The
prospect is not bad. I find we are not consuming our
daily ration of one pound of pemmican, nor have we ever
done so, and, strange to say, the dogs do not sometimes
eat theirs. We all like it amazingly, eating it cold three
times a day like cake out of our hands, but yet we seem
to have enough on less than a pound. Our greatest com-
fort morning and evening is Liebig's extract of beef tea.
Our daily allowance of one ounce per man is sufficient to
give us a pint morning and evening, and I know of no
more refreshing and comforting thing up here than this
same warm drink. Some tents take the whole ounce at
dinner, but we in No. 1 prefer it when we get up and
when our day's work is done.
Our flags are flying in honor of the day, though to me
THE RETREAT. 257
it is a very blue one. Three years ago to-day at Havre the
Jeannette was christened, and many pleasant things were
said and anticipations formed, all of which have gone
down with the ship. I did not think then that three
years afterward would see us all out on the ice, with
nothing accomplished and a story of a lost ship to come
back to our well-wishers at home. My duty to those who
came with me is to see them safely back and to devote all
my mind and strength to that end ; my duty to those
depending on me for support hereafter impels me to
desire that I should return also ; but, these two duties
apart, I fancy it would have made but little difference if
I had gone down with my ship. But as there is nothing
done without some good purpose being served I must en-
deavor to look my misfortune in the face and to learn
what its application may be. It will be hard, however,
to be known hereafter as a man who undertook a Polar
expedition and sunk his ship at the 77th parallel.
Piped down at nine a.m. Called all hands at six p.m.
Breakfast at seven p.m. Under way at eight p.m.
Three hundred yards from our camp we came to an ice
opening 150 feet wide, right in our way. As we are now
doubling our fleets — that is, dragging two sleds at a time
— such an opening was a serious inconvenience. A small
thick floe piece was floating in the middle of the lead, and
I hoped to get that pressed into service before any delay
could occur. Sending for the dingy I succeeded in get-
ting the lump in tow and ready for a flying bridge ferry
while the other boats were coming up. The two cutters
and two sleds were then carried across. Everything was
got over all right. Soon after we had to make a second
ferriage and then a number of bridges before we reached
the hard ice which Dunbar and I had visited before our
258 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
last camp. Ice which was connected then was all open
and moving now, and it was not nntil one a.m. of Tues-
day, July 5, that we had everything in sufficient security
to sit down to our dinners. The snow was falling quite
heavily in large flakes and we rigged up our rubber
blankets from the boats' rails to protect us, making our
dinner halt look like a small country fair, as some of the
men said. I could not help remembering that there were
many people under canvas in Hoboken to-day, picnicing,
who would like a little of the coolness we were now hav-
ing, but it seemed to provoke a desire to exchange places
with them, and I said nothing more.
CHAPTER XXI
BENNETT ISLAND.
Captain De Long proceeds : At two a.m. we turned
to and went ahead. Ice openings again annoyed us some-
what, but we set to work bridging them. While so doing
the whole pack seemed to get alive, and the tossing and
tumbling that went on for fifteen minutes was unconifort-
ble to witness. Large floes which had been held under
the others became liberated, and, rising to the surface,
floundered around like huge whales. When the floe edges
came together large blocks were broken off and reared on
end twenty-five and thirty feet high. A mass of rubble
coming together raised up an enormous piece until it
stood like a monument thirty feet above the surface of
the floe. Long thick snouts shoved up above and over
even floe pieces like immense snow ploughs, and groans
and shrieks came from all directions as these snouts rose
and advanced inch by inch. When long floe pieces reared
up to thirty feet and toppled backward they broke in
large lumps and scattered themselves for yards. And yet
we seem to have got out of paleocrystic ice. Our road
yesterday and to-day has been over ice that more nearly
resembles the pack ice which we entered near Herald
Island than anything else, and with occasional exceptions
seems to be one season's growth, the thickness varying
between seven and ten feet. If this be a correct assump-
tion we may be out of the drifting pack and in the ice
259
260 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
clinging to the Liakhoff Islands, in which case I hope
many days will not elapse before we get in a lead to some
purpose. Chipp is not nearly as strong as he would have
us believe. I mentioned yesterday that the Doctor stopped
his whiskey to see the effect. Last night (our sleeping
time) he ate nothing, had no sleep and was groaning and
tumbling around all the time. This we learn from Dun-
bar, for Chipp asserts he is " first rate," and tells Dunbar
to say so when he is asked by the Doctor. Foolishly
enough, he wants to be discharged to duty, thinking he
is able to work.
Friday, July 8th, has completed one mile of the most
disheartening and discouraging day we have yet had.
The fresh northwest wind had opened the ice in all
directions except the one we wanted and a constant suc-
cession of ferriages and bridges fell to our lot. The wind
seemed very searching, and finally our customary fog and
misty rain set in, making us wet as well as cold. We did
not have dinner till two a.m., it taking us six hours to
make our last half mile. At three we turned to again,
and by seven went into camp. Supper at half -past seven.
Barometer 29.58 at 36° ; temperature 31°. Piped down at
nine a.m. Called all hands at six p.m. Fresh breezes,
northwest. Three to five, a very little blue sky and sun.
At quarter to eight, snow squall. At eight p.m. got un-
der way.
Saturday, July 9th, we had advanced everything one
and a quarter miles and had come to a halt for dinner.
Our travelling to-day must make up for our mishaps and
delays of yesterday. We can do well enough when the
ice holds together ; it is only these ugly openings which
make us lose ground. Generally speaking one mile made
means seven miles travelled by the men. What with com-
BENNETT ISLAND. 261
ing and going, getting ahead to see the road and going
back to see the rear close up, I am three times over the
road night and morning, and I know from my own sensa-
tions how welcome the camping hour must be to Melville
and the men. The northwest wind continued fresh while
we were at dinner, and though we cowered under the lee
of the boats we were cold and miserable. Our usual fog
made things still more uncomfortable, and I think no one
was sorry when at ten minutes past one a.m. I gave the
order to turn to and go ahead. * * *
Sunday, July 10th. — We encountered considerable
needle ice, so called by Parry, and by him attributed
to the action of rain drops. In our opinion this is caused
by the more rapid driving away of the salt in some places
than in others, leaving bunches or tufts of long spikes. A
piece of honeycomb cut down through shows the same
general formation. Got a fair Sumner this morning, from
which I determine our position to be 77° 8' 30", longitude
151° 38"— a change of position since the 30th of 26| miles
south 30° east. By account we had made about sixteen
miles southwest, so this shows how little can be done with
any certainty. Keeping on in our course is all that can
be accomplished, and, in my opinion, if our longitude be
right, a southwesterly course will soonest bring us to the
edge of the ice. Supper at half -past seven. Divine ser-
vice at a quarter to nine. Piped down at nine.
After supper quite a little excitement was created by
the cry of land. To the southwest was something which
certainly looked like land, but the fog assumes so many
deceiving forms that we cannot be sure of anything. The
nearest Siberian island is 120 miles from us, and unless
we are going to discover new islands I cannot believe that
we have seen land to-day. I think we made three and a half
262 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
miles to day in nine hours and a half's work. Under way
at a quarter past eight o'clock p.m. At nine I started
forward and met Anequin coming back in haste for a rifle,
saying that Mr. Dunbar had seen a bear. Getting to the
front I met Mr. Dunbar, who, sure enough, had encoun-
tered Bruin, and, like a prudent man, having nothing more
dangerous than a boarding pike, took to his heels.
While turning a sharp corner he met the bear at thirty
yards' distance, and upon retreating was followed in
chase for a short spell. The bear then sat down and
looked at him, and, while Mr. Dunbar was waiting for a
rifle, waited conveniently in the neighborhood, leaving
only as Anequin with the weapon came in sight. Clouds
to the southwest gave more indications of water than
anything else yet seen. Calling Mr. Dunbar's attention to
them he expressed his opinion that " such clouds did not
hang over ice." Climbing to the top of a hummock,
twenty feet above the water level, and examining care-
fully with a glass I saw unmistakable land and water.
It now appears that this was the land seen yesterday.
At all events it is land sure enough, and water, too.
What it may be no one can say, whether newly dis-
covered land or (our longitude being out) some portion of
Siberia. It can hardly be any one of the Liakhoff islands.
Another pleasant feature is our course (southwest) being
a straight line to it. My change from south to southwest
may, therefore, be a wise act, resulting in our speedier
liberation. Judging by ordinary distances I should say
the land is ten to fifteen miles distant, and as I could see
quite a large expanse of water, with long stretches of
detached ice, it may be that once at the margin of this ice-
field through which we are now toiling we may have open
water to the Siberian coast ; thus verifying some part of
BENNETT ISLAND. 263
the statements of Russian explorers. We have exploded
so many theories of other people that it will be hard to
make us believe that we can have left the ice behind us
short of the Arctic Circle. One month ago to-day our
ship went down, and I do not see any one the worse for
the work that has fallen to us since. That it is hard work
there can be no dispute. It is conceded by everybody to
be the hardest work they ever had. The drag, drag — the
slips and jerks, the sudden bringing up of the hauling
belt across the chest are fearfully trying, and the working
with pickaxes through floating ice makes every bone
ache. * * *
Tuesday, July 12th. — * * * Nothing could be seen
of the land and water we saw yesterday. The southwest
horizon was foggy. Many guillemots were seen, several
gulls, an auk, and, strange to say, the Doctor picked up
a live butterfly, which I have preserved. This is not a
habitue of the ice, and was certainly blown from the land
by the southeaster of yesterday or by the southwester
which followed it. * * * Then follow descriptions of
daily journeys over ice, ferriages and hard work. Upon
looking to the southwest a land-like appearance was again
seen, and several also declared they could see the water.
Thursday, July 14th. — De Long continues : — Our men's
boot soles are wearing out so rapidly on the sharp ice
over which we are travelling that their demands for re-
pairs exceed our supply. I have already authorized the
use of the leather from the dingy' s oars, and this a.m. I
had to have the leather cut off the first cutter's steering
oar for patches. This leather will last longer than skin
patches, but I hope the time is not far distant when I can
have at least this one care and anxiety removed from my
mind. * * *
264 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Friday, July Wt7i. — The land seen again. Onr conrse
has been steadily southwest. All things being taken into
consideration I assume that we are near land and water.
During dinner (twenty minutes of two to twenty minutes
past two a.m.) we saw the moon for the first time, I
think, in two months. And what was more satisfactory,
we saw a seal in a lead near us, and Mr. Collins shot him,
while the dingy this time got him before he sunk.
Course west and south (true). The seal came in splendidly
for food. At a quarter past seven a.m. we sat down in
No. 1 tent to a simply delicious supper. After our long
diet of pemmican the change alone was a luxury. We
did not stand upon our ship ideas of hanging the seal up
until the animal heat had disappeared, or keeping it for a
few days. The seal was shot at half -past two, skinned at
four and eaten at seven, and we feel as if we had dined at
Delmonico' s. Over seven thirty- thirds of twenty pounds
was cut up in small lumps, boiled in water, three and
one-half ounces of Liebig added, one pint of bread crumbs;
and for a feast I shall long remember it. No. 4 tried to
fry their six thirty -thirds, and so very successfully that
Melville says it tasted like fried oysters.
Saturday, July Wth. — The weather bright and pleasant.
The island showed more plainly than yesterday, but no
water could be seen. Mr. Collins shot another seal, which
was secured by the dingy, and we have another luxurious
supper ahead. Previous to getting sights I had a mishap
which was annoying. Going to the top of a hummock to
get a look at the land Mr. Dunbar and I had to go out of
the road and jump some rather wide openings. Going
was all right, but coming back, upon jumping a four-foot
opening, the ice broke under me as I jumped, and I went
into the water up to my neck. My clothes held me up for
BENNETT ISLAND. 265
a moment, and Mr. Dunbar grabbed me by the head, as
he thought, but by the whiskers principally, as I realized,
for he nearly took my head off. My knapsack was away
to the rear, and I sent Johnson back for it when I reached
the dingy. However, I soon got dry clothes, and, thanks
to the bright sun, my wet ones were soon drying. By the
capsizing of dog sled lost 270 pounds pemmican. * * *
The event of the day was the seal, a fine, large, fat one,
giving us food and boot grease. Not much less in impor-
tance was the appearance of a walrus — the first one seen
by us in a very, very long time. Though fired at and hit
by Mr. Collins and Nindermann he remained under water
finally after many reappearances. The land showed some-
what plainer to-day, but I could see no water. My obser-
vations place us in latitude 76° 44' and longitude east 153°
25' — a change of position since the 10th (six days) of
thirty-four miles southeast. As this land bears west and
south of west (true), it can hardly be one of the Liakhoff
Islands, even if our longitude is a long way out. Supper
at a quarter past ten a.m. Our seal was simply deli-
cious. * * *
Chipp was discharged from the sick list and returned
to duty. This relieves Melville, who now takes charge of
the road and bridge making in place of the Doctor, who
now becomes a reserve. At nine p.m. the island is much
plainer in sight than ever. I am again in hope that we
have made another discovery. Working my longitude
over will correct latitude. I find we are in 76° 41' and
153° 30' east — a change since the 10th of thirty-seven miles
south, 43° east ; soundings, twenty-three fathoms. This
brings me along to Sunday, July 17th. * * * Mr. Dun-
bar thinks that in two days we can reach the water, but
the land seems as distant as ever. * * * A very curious
17
266 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
seal trick came to light by my breaking through the ice.
He had two holes leading from the sea, connected by a
covered way under the snow and thin crust. I suppose it
was to give him a resort in case a bear headed him off.
On the ice by the air-hole was a cavity in which the seal
had lain and rubbed the shedding hair off his skin.
From this time to Tuesday, the 26th of July, Captain
De Long's notes refer at some length to the difficulties of
the roads over the ice, the gradual approach to the land,
and the more and more confused masses of ice and water
which had to be got over. He records the shooting of a
seal, a bear and a walrus. There is also mention made of
an appearance resembling land to the northward, seen by
Mr. Collins and Mr. Chipp, but so uncertain that he did
not deem it wise to alter his course to verify its existence.
During the night of July 26th Mr. Collins, who turned
Out during the night, said we were in front of the valley
of the island, and he could see clear water between us and
an ice-foot next the land. The solution, I think, is as
follows : —
BENNETT ISLAND
*-1$
A. — Own position.
E. — East end of south side of island.
W.— West.
B. — Ice rapidly drifting to southwest before the wind.
C. — Water and drift pieces.
D. — Ice-foot or strip of fresh ice.
I think we are far enough under the lee of point E to
BENNETT ISLAND. 267
escape drifting with the ice pressing down along the
island and passing the point E, even if we are not in an
eddy so created and then pushed in closer to the land.
As nothing can be seen clearly it would be folly to move
into a probably endless confusion, and I shall therefore
wait until some plan can be safely carried out.
I do not think I shall ever forget yesterday ; such a
tissue of difficulty and vexation can be experienced no-
where else. Such a shifting of ice and opening of leads.
Hardly had we commenced to move our things along
what seemed a fair road than the road broke up. Ice
broke under us, ice slid away from us, ice moved to
the right when we wanted to go to the left, and vice
versa, and each instalment of provisions got safely across
was considered by me as barely rescued from destruction.
And all this time the land not half a mile off was tempt-
ing us by its solidity and appealing to our desire for rest
by its moss covered hills and slopes. At eight a.m.
yesterday, when we concluded to go on and work for
twenty-four hours, so many good roads, each leading
seemingly directly on shore, presented themselves that I
was embarrassed in a choice, but in fifteen minutes they
had fallen to pieces and become puzzling mazes of ice and
water. There was no question that when I gave it up at
six p.m. everybody was used up and could not possibly
have gone further. Everybody was wet up to his knees,
stiff legs and cramps annoyed us until we had been an
hour or two in our bags, and we were too tired, in fact, to
get the rest we stood so much in need of. However, we
are all right again this morning and none the worse off.
Better, off, in fact, for if we had not put in the twenty-
four hours in full we would have been out on the heavy
drift ice and probably miles away from the land by the
268 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
time this gale is over (spoken of previously). At noon the
fog broke away and showed the land for a few moments.
We were exactly as I had supposed and indicated
by the sketch on another page. The pressure of the
ice on swinging off the easterly point has backed us in
toward the bay, and between our floe and the land there
is about two miles of water nearly clear of ice. I assumed
that against our floe are a number of large blocks and
hummocks, offering serious difficulty to any attempt to
launch our boats. On the off side of these hummocks the
sea is breaking considerably. The wind tears around us
in fierce gusts. No. 6 tent has been twice blown down.
We will see what the state of affairs is after dinner.
Dined at half -past twelve p.m. luxuriously on bear stew.
By half past one the land was again in fog, and otherwise
the situation was as before. My desire was to go ahead,
but prudence told me to wait until the weather moder-
ated. The barometer is still falling, the rain beats down
from time to time, and nothing can be seen through the
fog. I decide to wait for an improvement, and then I shall
push on in the second cutter and try to land some pro-
visions. Soundings in thirteen fathoms ; no drift indica-
tion. Our ice is evidently jammed tight. Probably at the
first chance the loose hummocks now pressing against us
will slack off and leave no place to launch our boats,
even if our floe piece does not go bodily in toward the
land.
During the afternoon the ice scene was constantly
changing. At one moment ice seemed to reach from our
floe to the land. At another time lanes of water were
seen, and once our floe was left as an island, while it
would have been possible to launch a boat and reach the
shore. I confess I was tempted to try it, but I realized
BENNETT ISLAND. 269
that the whale-boat could carry nothing but her crew
safely until her garboards were repaired, and that it
would take six or seven trips of the two other boats to
carry our effects. Before I could have got our boat in the
water, however, ice shoved in between us and the land
and we were once more helpless. It seems as if Provi-
dence were directing our movements, for the floe upon
which we camped last night is the only large piece of ice
to be seen ; all else is confusion and trouble. Had I gone
further or stopped short of this place it is hard to say
where we would be now. We are moving west slowly,
about a mile or a mile and a half from the land, and are
now (seven p.m.) abreast a large glacier, whose broken
edge — it may be twenty feet high — we can see with a
glass. I have watched carefully all day for a landing
place, but not one has shown. The coast is either steep cliff
or glacier, and neither is a successful landing place. The
barometer is now at a stand, and I think 29.63 at 33
degrees ; and though rain is occasionally falling, and the
sky is dark and threatening where the fog does not hide it
altogether, I am in hopes the weather will improve during
the night. Supper, bear stew, at six p.m. Piped down
at nine.
Wednesday, July 27th. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfast at seven. The wind has veered to east and is
dying away. Patiently and hopefully I waited all the
forenoon for a clearing, but (one p.m.) the fog still hangs
about us impenetrably. The barometer goes up 29.72 at
38 degrees and the temperature 30 degrees. Soundings in
sixteen fathoms water, and I am afraid we have drifted
down abreast the point west and are too far west to hope
for any benefit from the bay in which yesterday we
shoaled water to thirteen fathoms. In which case we are
270 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
now beginning to open the west face of the island. This
will be the last forlorn hope for open water in the neigh-
borhood. And yet there is mnch to be thankful for.
Everybody is in excellent health in spite of onr terribly hard
work. The appetites are something wonderful to think
of and our sleep is sound and unbroken. Forty-one days
of our march over the frozen sea have had no bad effect.
One bear is so nearly consumed that for supper we have
only half our usual ration to serve out. (In five meals we
have eaten about 250 lbs. of bear meat. The gross weight
was probably 450 lbs.) The only trace our marching
shows on us is tender feet, and that probably arises from
their being so often wet. Wading through ponds would
make wet feet if our foot-gear was changed every hour.
At six p.m. had supper. At forty -five minutes past six
the fog lifted a little and showed us the land seemingly
about half a mile off. We have drifted along shore since
last evening and have left on our right hand the glacier
which ve were in front of last night. But ahead of us,
and apparently extending into the land, was a very heavy
floe of blue ice, and separated from us by a few insignifi-
cant openings. Such a chance was not to be lost. All
hands were at once turned to, and at fifteen minutes past
seven we went ahead with all four sleds, officers dragging
also, and then bounced along the boats, and in an hour
we had everything on the heavy floe. This we now found
to be a mile and a half in width after going over it, and
we were still separated from the land by a half mile of
broken ice, water lanes, &c. I at once made up my mind
that it could not be done to-night and that I had better
devote a day to it. The Wind had veered to east-southeast,
was blowing fresh and rain began to fall steadily, and
when, at a quarter to eleven p.m., just inside the blue
BENNETT ISLAND. 271
floe edge, I gave the order to camp, I think I did a very
prudent and sensible thing.
Thursday, July 28th.— €alled all hands at seven, break-
fast at eight ; windy (east-southeast), foggy and disagree-
able. Land in sight at times. We have gone a short
distance to westward. Barometer 29.78 at 36 degrees ;
temperature 29 degrees. Under way at ten minutes to
nine a.m. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead, and after a while we
succeeded in crossing the broken ice which had stopped
us last night. Here we had a small floe, across which we
speeded. The fog now shut in impenetrably, and I feared
we were in for a troublesome time. Mr. Dunbar now
returned, however, and informed me that after crossing
this floe we should find large ice blocks with only two-
feet openings, and that the blocks extended to the ice foot
or fast ice ; and that, moreover, he had climbed up on
the ice foot and advanced a hundred yards over it toward
the land. This was too good a chance to lose, and away
we went. But, though we made all haste and got over
our last ferry and across the small floe in splendid time,
when we reached the further edge we found everything
fallen to pieces, and more water and rapidly moving ice
than we could undertake. Much of the moving ice looked
like small bergs broken off from a glacier foot, and from
the rounded lumps of ice on top and their almost straight
edges I am inclined to think they were icebergs. By half-
past twelve p.m. we had everything up to the floe edge
and halted for dinner. The sun now tried to break
through the fog, and I hoped for a clearing, but at half-
past one p.m., when we turned to, the fog was as thick as
ever. The situation had improved somewhat, for another
floe piece had now come along, and a few loose pieces
afforded a convenient bridge. Away we went, but the
272 ICE PACE AND TUNDRA.
floe piece was a small one and we soon reached its edge.
Here was another confusion, but we could make out a
larger floe ahead. Everything was embarked on an ice-
cake for a ferryboat and a hauling line run to the floe.
By great effort we got our piece clear by four p.m. and
commenced to haul over.
Suddenly everybody gave a shout, " Look ! " Away up
over our heads, 2,500 feet, towered the land, and we were
swinging past it like a mill stream. Hurriedly sounded
in eighteen and a half fathoms. Soon our floe was
reached ; away we jumped over sleds and boats, and,
seeing two or three large cakes nearly together, ran
everything rapidly over until we at last stood at the base
of the ice foot. It was a narrow squeeze, for the men
with the tents and remaining provisions on their shoul-
ders had hard work to run fast enough to get on the last
cake before the other cakes were swept away. Now that
we were on the last cake our position became critical.
We could not get up on the ice foot, for ten feet of water
and small lumps intervened, and we were sweeping along
by it at the rate of three miles an hour. Our cake was
none of the strongest, and in the swirling and running
masses and small bergs I feared we would be broken up
and separated. It was an anxious moment. The south-
west cape of the island was not half a mile away and
this was our last chance. Over two weeks of dragging
and walking to reach this island seemed about to be
thrown away. I soon noticed our cake began to turn
around and saw that it might be whirled into a kind of
corner against the fast ice, where if it remained long
enough a landing might be effected. " Stand by ! " was
the order now, and with sled ropes in hand we waited
the trying moment. Soon our cake caught and held!
BENNETT ISLAND. 273
" Now is the time, Chipp!" I shouted, and away he
went. One sled got over on the rough ice foot all right ;
a second nearly fell overboard ; the third did fall over-
board, dragging in Cole, and a piece of ice had to be
dragged in by sheer force to bridge for the fourth. Then
I started the St. Michael's sleds, and they seemed to
stick somewhere. Watching our cake closely I saw signs
of it giving way. " Away with the boats ! " but Mnder-
mann thought he could float the boats below and haul
them over. No sooner said than done, and away they
went into the water. The men were hurried from the
sleds into the boats, and I saw the first cutter just begin-
ning to haul out, when away swept our ice cake, carrying
Melville, Iverson, Anequin and myself, with six dogs.
Wilson had carried one load of dogs over in the dingy,
but he could not get back for the remainder. Chipp
was on the ice foot with the boats and I knew he could
look out for everything, and I felt pretty certain we had
saved everything. For ourselves on the drifting ice
cake I had some little anxiety, but one corner of our cake
fortunately soon after drifted near a fast berg, and by
making a flying trip through the air we escaped in safety.
At last ! But though standing still we were not ashore.
The ice foot extended out from the land many yards, and
was a confused mass of piled-up ice blocks and ridges,
honeycombed, cracked and broken and presenting a sim-
ply impassable roads for travel with sleds. Glad enough
was I to get a solid foothold anywhere, and I gave the
order to camp at half -past six p. m. (our first sled having
got on the ice foot about five), everything being hauled in
as near to the land as possible — say fifty feet from it.
Eocks were occasionally slipping down and falling into a
little stream of water at the foot of the cliff, the stream
274 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
being where the thawing of surface ice had left a channel
about four feet deep. The face of the cliff was literally
alive with dovekies. Supper at half -past seven p.m. At
half -past eight p.m. all hands were called to muster, and,
led by me, everybody waded or jumped or ferried over to
the steep slopes of debris, while our colors were displayed.
When all had gathered around me I said :
"I have to announce to you that this island, toward
which we have been struggling for more than two weeks,
is newly discovered land. I, therefore, take possession of
it in the name of the President of the United States, and
name it 'Bennett Island.' I now call upon you to give
three cheers."
And never were three more lusty cheers given. With
great kindness three were then given for me. I now
change the date to the correct one, and record that at
half -past eight p.m., Friday, July 29, I added Bennett
Island to American soil. Our landing cape I name " Cape
Emma." Piped down at nine p.m. Fresh east wind,
thick fog, ice off shore rapidly moving west. The birds
kept up a fearful chattering all night, but we slept well
in spite of it.
CHAPTER XXII.
KENDERMANN AND NOROS.
From Bennett Island to Semenoffski Island the expe-
riences of the retreating party were but a repetition of the
scenes since leaving the sunken vessel. I will therefore
pass over those incidents of the retreat which occurred
after the landing on Bennett Island until the separa-
tion of the boats at the mouth of the Lena. Mnder-
mann and JSToros, the seamen, who were in the cutter
with De Long, here continued the narrative. " On Sep-
tember 12th," says Mndermann, " we were steering south,
with a fresh breeze from the northeast ; the wind soon in-
creased, and the sea ran quite high ; about noon there
seemed to be some trouble with the whale-boat ; Mr. Mel-
ville called out to the Captain that his boat was leaking
badly ; all three boats were hauled up on the ice, dinner
was eaten and the whale-boat was repaired ; after dinner
the boats were launched and the course laid to the south-
ward ; the wind increased and the sea was rising ; toward
evening it was blowing a gale ; a reef was taken in the
sail of the first cutter ; the sea was continually breaking
over the boat and there was great difficulty in keeping her
free of water ; the whale-boat was on the weather bow and
the second cutter on the port quarter, some distance away ;
Captain De Long signalled to the boats, intending to tell
them to keep as near together as possible ; the sea was
running so high the whale-boat could not slow down so as
275
276
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
to come alongside ; another reef was taken in the sail by
the first cutter, but it had to be shaken out again shortly
after that ; it was then getting dark, and the whale-boat,
being the fastest sailer, was out of sight ; the second cut-
ter could be seen astern, but before long she was also out
NINDKRMANN AND NOKGS.
of sight ; the wind and sea still increased, and the first
cutter took in water over both sides and the stern ; Erick-
sen was at the tiller, and the boat was running so close
before the wind that the sail jibed two or three times and
nearly swamped the boat.
Finally the sail jibed again and both mast and sail were
NINDERMANN AND NOROS. 277
earned away, the boat took in a heavy sea, and with great
difficulty the water was gotten out, as she was full up to
the thwarts ; another sea would have sunk her ; as soon
as the mast went overboard the boat came around head to
the wind ; the Captain ordered a drag to be made, using
the sail and boat breaker ; the drag was put out over the
stern, and the boat behaved pretty well for some time
until the drag was carried away ; another one was then
made ; a cross was made, using the mast and an oar,
weighting it with a heavy pickaxe at the head ; about
midnight there seemed as if there were two seas running
from different directions, making it very choppy and con-
tinually breaking into the boat and keeping the men
bailing all the time ; the next day the wind and sea were
high until toward the evening, when the sea began to go
down ; we were obliged to lay-to that night ; the next
morning the Captain asked me what I had in the boat
with which to make a jury sail; I replied a hammock and
an old sleigh cover, and that we could make a sail out of
them ; Gcertz and Kaach were then set to work, and as
soon as the hammock and sleigh cover were sewed to-
gether the mast was stepped, sail set, and the course was
laid south-southwest ; at noon the sea had gone down a
good deal and the wind shifted to the westward ; we were
still on our course; toward the evening the Captain's
hands and feet began to swell, so that he could not write
in his journal ; he put his feet in a sleeping bag and sat
up in the stern of the boat ; when night set in the wind
had hauled more to the southward ; we could not make
our course, but were obliged to tack ; the Captain gave
me orders to stay about four hours on one tack and then
go about on the other tack and to call him in case any-
thing should happen ; we kept on tacking during the
278 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
night ; the next morning the wind hanled to the north
and east so that we could lay our course again ; I took
soundings and found eight feet of water ; about ten o'clock
I stood up in the stern sheets and saw on the horizon
dark spots that looked like land ; this was on the morn-
ing of the 15th of September ; I told the Captain, but as
he was sitting down he could not see it, and at first
thought I was mistaken ; on standing in a little further
we could soon see land while sitting down in the boat ; we
could see young ice east and west and for some distance
toward the land ; as there was no lead to be seen through
the young ice we ran into it under sail until we got stuck;
we then used the oars in breaking the ice ahead of us
while we forced the boat through it ; we pushed on until
we were about three miles off the mouth of the river ; the
water rapidly shoaled until we had only about two feet
of water and soon after our boat grounded.
The entire day was passed in endeavoring to find deep
water ; at times all hands were in the water pushing the
boat along, and great suffering ensued from the cold, wet
and fatigue. Toward evening, all hands being pretty well
exhausted, the Captain determined to lay alongside the ice
till morning ; after supper the men got out their sleeping
bags, but found them so wet that they could not be used,
so each person passed the night as he best could, all suf-
ering extremely from the cold. The next morning the
boat was pushed off shore. About ten o'clock the
Captain, finding he could make no progress to the west-
ward, put the course to the north and east ; the water was
very shoal, and the boat continually grounded in the mud.
When the men pushed on the oars the boat would be
crowded ahead a foot or two, but when the oars were
withdrawn for a new purchase the boat would settle back
NINDERMANN AND NOROS. 279
into about her former position ; toward afternoon the wind
freshened and the shoal water became very choppy, fre-
quently breaking into the boat and keeping all hands
drenched to the skin. By this time the boat had been
worked away from the young ice about a mile and a half,
and, finding no further progress could be made in that di-
rection, the Captain gave orders to return to the ice ; two
days had been passed in the attempt to reach the land,
and during this time the only water to be had was from
melting the young ice. After dinner that day the Captain
said he could do nothing else, so had concluded to make
a landing by wading. I made a raft out of the boat sled
upon which to place some of the boat's load for the pur-
pose of lightening her. About three p.m. the Captain
gave orders to shove the boat in toward the shore ; after
going about twenty yards the boat again grounded, and
the Captain, seeing no other resource, gave orders for all
hands to strip and get overboard ; Captain De Long, Dr.
Ambler, Ericksen and Boyd were the only ones who
stayed in the boat. The sail was set and the men got into
the water and took hold of the painter to drag the boat ;
about fifty yards were made in this way, when the boat
again grounded, and the Captain gave orders for every
man to take a back load and wade ashore ; every one took
what he could carry and all started to wade : sometimes
the water was only knee deep, at times up to their waists;
frequently some one would fall into a mud hole, from
which he would be extricated with great difficulty. About
a mile from the beach young ice was encountered, through
which it was necessary to break their way. At last the
boat was made fast and all hands made another trip to
the shore, then returned and dragged the boat a little fur-
ther, but she soon grounded, and the men started ashore
280 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
with another load ; in this way, alternately lightening and
dragging the boat toward shore, they managed to get her
to the yonng ice, which was about a mile and a half from
the beach ; when it was found impossible to get the boat
any nearer ; the sick people had to get into the water and
wade, as it was not possible for any one to carry them
through the ice, and with such a soft, slippery bottom. I
and another seaman made a final trip to the boat to see if
anything had been left, and when we started to return
found it so dark we could not see the beach, so had to feel
our way back through the young ice. On reaching shore
I found a large fire going and the men sitting around try-
ing to dry their clothing.
The events of the next few days being recorded in the
last diary kept by De Long Mndermann continues :
On the 6th of October Ericksen's condition left no hope
of recovery, and it was feared that he would be unable to
move on further. I was alone in the hut and the Captain
asked me if I was strong enough to go to Kumak Surka,
which he said was only twenty -five miles distant. He
thought that I with a companion would be able to make
the journey and return to them in four days. He told me
that if we failed to find people at Kumak Surka we should
then go further to a place called Ajakit, which he said
was about forty-five miles further to the south than
Kumak Surka. "If you find people," he said, "come
back as quickly as possible and bring with you meat
enough to feed us until we can get to the place." The
Captain asked me which of the men I would take with me
on the journey, and I said Noros. He asked me if I
would not rather take Iverson, but I said no, Iverson had
been complaining of his feet for some days as having
given him very much pain. To my selection the Captain
NINDERMANN AND NOROS. 281
then agreed. He said further, ' ' Mndermann, yon know
that we have nothing to eat and that I can give yon noth-
ing with yon on your journey ; but I will give you your
portion of the dog meat." As we talked about these
things the Doctor walked up and looked at Ericksen, and
exclaimed, " He is dead ! " We were all awed. The Cap-
tain then said, "Mndermann, now we will all go south-
ward." This was about nine o'clock when Ericksen died.
The Captain then asked me where we could find a place
to bury him, whereupon I answered that the earth was
too hard frozen to dig a grave and that we had no imple-
ments with us ; we could do nothing else than make a hole
in the ice of the river and bury him there. The Captain
said yes, it must be so, and then told Noros and Kaach
to sew the body up in a portion of the canvas belonging
to the tent. At midday we were ready to bury him, the
flag was placed over him, and we had a little warm water
with alcohol in it for our dinner. When we had drunk
that the Captain said: "We will now bury our ship-
mate." All were very still, and the Captain spoke a few
words to us, and when he was finished we took our
comrade toward the river, and then made a hole in the ice
with a hatchet. The Captain then read the service for
the dead, and Ericksen' s body was let into the river
and was carried away from our eyes by the stream.
Three shots were fired over his grave, and then we went
back to the hut. The weather was very bad, the wind
was very strong and the snow drifted fearfully. We had
not much to say one to the other. The Captain told me
to go out and see how the weather was, if it was good
enough for us to make a further journey. I went out,
but the weather was so bad and the snow drifted so
strongly that I could scarcely see anything, and I said it
18
282 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
would be better to wait till the storm abated, for we could
not see where we were going if we started out. I thought
the day was just such a day as the one in which we buried
Captain Hall. The Captain then said "We will wait till
to-morrow." That evening we ate our portion of dog
meat. The Captain said, "This is our last meat, but I
hope we will soon have some more." Then we all laid
down to rest.
On the 7th of October when we awoke the wind was
pretty strong and the snow was still drifting. We made
preparations to continue our journey. We ]eft in the hut
a repeating rifle, some ammunition and a record. We
took nothing with us but the records and papers, the
Captain's private journal, two rifles and the clothes we
wore. I suggested that all the papers should be left
there in the hut and that when we found people I would
go back and fetch them, whereupon the Captain an-
swered: — "Mndermann, the papers go with me as long
as I live." We then left the hut and went in a southerly
direction until we came to a large river, which we then
thought was the Lena proper, but it was the one that we
now call the Duropean. When we left the hut I had
forgotten to say we made a short cut across a sand pit,
about southeast, then struck a river, went along on the
west bank of the river for some distance to the south,
then as the river took a turn we had to go southeast
again, then struck another small river where there was
no water at all, going south for a short time, then going
to the east for a short distance, when we struck the Lena,
as the Captain supposed it to be at the time. That is
the river he was found on. The Captain said, "Nin-
dermann, do you think the ice is strong enough to bear
us % " I said, " I will try it." I went a short way on the
NINDERMANN AND NOROS. 283
river when I broke through, but was not very wet.
When I looked around me I saw the Captain quite near
to me, and he had broken through up to his shoulders.
I helped him out and we went back to the bank, made a
fire and dried our things. It was then midday and we
made some alcohol and warm water to drink.
On Sunday, October 9, after divine service, Captain De
Long sent Mndermann and Noros southward, repeating the
instructions to Mndermann that he had given him the day
before Ericksen' s death. Mndermann says : ' ' The Captain
gave me a copy of his small chart of the Lena River, say-
ing, ' That is all I can give you on your journey ; informa-
tion about the land or river I cannot give you, for you
know as much as I do myself. But go southward with
Xoros, who is under your command, until you reach
Kumak Surka, and if you should not find any one there
then go on to Ajakit, which is forty-five miles southward
from Kumak Surka, and should you fail to find people
there then go on to Bulun, which is twenty-five miles
southward from Ajakit, and if there are no people there
go southward until you do find people. But I think you
will find people at Kumak Surka. If you should shoot
reindeer not further away than one or two days' journey
from us come back and let us know.' He gave me further
the order not to leave the western bank of the stream,
because, he said, on the eastern bank I should find neither
people nor drift-wood. He told me that he could not give
me any written instructions, because if he did the people
would not be able to read them, but I should do the best I
could and use my own judgment. He gave me strict orders
that we should not wade through the water. He then said
adieu to us and that as soon as he was ready he would
follow in our footsteps as rapidly as possible. Then all
284 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
gave us three cheers and my comrade and I left them.
They were all in good hopes that we wonld be able soon
to bring back assistance. My hopes, however, were not
so bright, for I knew that it was very late in the fall, and
that in all probability the people had gone away to the
south." Noros here said: " We did not follow the river
round, but took a straight cut across the land. The
mountains were ahead of us and we knew that the river
ran near them. It was an island we were on. There was
a river (the Duropean) on the other side of it. Mndermann
and I reached the river and walked along it about five or
six miles. We stopped before noon and had a little alco-
hol. After that we walked on till we came to a little
canoe on the top of the bluff, and perched on the canoe
we saw a ptarmigan. Nindermann shot at it with his rifle,
and, though he took out some tail feathers, the bird got
away. We went down to the beach, where it was easier
walking than on the bluff. We walked there about a
mile, when we again took to the bluff, principally to look
around us and to see if we could see any game. Nindermann
happened to get up on the bluff first and exclaimed, ' They
are deer — give me the gun.' We could see them ; they
were not more than half a mile away, but partly to the
windward. So Mndermann took off his heavy clothes and
lightened himself up and then crawled along in the snow.
I gave him the cartridges and said, ' Nindermann, make
sure of your game ; that may be the saving of the whole
of us.' He said, 'I will do my best.' I was almost
smoke-blind at the time and could not see very well, but I
watched his movements very eagerly. I could make out
his progress, and saw him crawling slowly up. There
were several deer, perhaps a dozen; two or three were
grazing and keeping the lookout, and the others were
NINDER2IANN AND XOROS. 285
resting on the ground. Mndermann got to within two or
three hundred yards of them, when one of them caught
sight or wind of him and gave the alarm to the rest. I
saw Nindermann start up, and, seeing the deer making off,
he fired three shots at them, hoping to bring down one
with a chance shot. But he missed. They all escaped.
Mndermann came back much disheartened. ' I could not
help it,' he said ; ' I could not do any better,' so we had
to put up with it. Then we started off again and made
another pretty good stretch, till we felt exhausted and
determined to seek shelter for the night. The best place
we could find was beneath the high bluff, at a place where
the earth had fallen away, and here we built a fire,
had our alcohol and there spent the night. We did not
sleep much it was so cold, and most of our time was occu-
pied in keeping up the fire. ' ' (This camping place was
near the place where Captain De Long later built his last
signal fire — perhaps a mile from the deserted raft.)
"We had to go whichever way the wind blew us,
and so we got away to the northwestward somewhere.
Anyhow that day' s travel took us out of our course so far
that it took us nearly two days to get back again to a
point opposite to the bluff on which we were when the
gale commenced. We pushed on in spite of the wind and
the drifting snow and sand. That night we could not find
any shelter on the banks, and so we dug a hole in the
drift for a shelter. This took us three or four hours to
do, as we had nothing to work with except our hands and
sheath knives, but at last we managed to dig a hole large
enough for the two of us to creep into. After we had got
in the hole the wind drifted the snow upon us and soon
filled the entrance of our little place, and next morning
we had to work a long time before we could get out of the
286 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
drift again. We got up and started out again ; we did
not use any of our alcohol to speak of ; we were saving it
up as much as we could."
Toward the evening of the 11th the two men, after a
terrible day's tramp in the drifting snow storm, were
gladdened by the sight of a hut to the southeast — Matvey
— and there they determined to stay for the night. It was
a small log hut with a raised hearthplace in the centre.
They soon built a fire, keeping it up by putting on the
logs of the benches or bunks built round the hut.
"We hated to leave the first shelter we had found
since leaving the Captain," Noros says. " We went down
to the river again. We had to face the wind from the
southward, and we could hardly make any progress
against it. We would have to stop once in a little while,
unable to move a step further. We began to give it up in
despair. At times we felt like going back to the hut and
to wait there until death relieved us from our suffer-
ings." But they kept on, walking wearily, with nothing
to eat. Then they saw some mountains ahead, and they
thought they saw a hut close by, but were not quite sure.
There was water between them and the hut, and this they
had to wade through up to their knees. They got across,
and then found it was really a shelter place, a little
palatka or round, tent-like hut, built of sticks and
plastered outside with mud to keep out the wind. They
went inside, but found it was in a very dilapidated con-
dition. Noros thought Nindermann had followed him, but
instead of that he had gone a mile further on and had
found another hut, a still smaller one. There they saw
two crosses stuck up, marking the graves of dead natives.
Here the two men stayed a day and a half, until all the
find of food had been consumed down to the fishheads
NINDERMANN AND NOR OS. 287
and the refuse, and, though very bad, it seemed to give
them some strength. Mndermann says they thought they
had then arrived at Kumak Surka, and Relieved that the
course they had followed agreed pretty well with the
chart that De Long had given them. But, finding no in-
habitants, they determined to press on again and make
for Ajakit or Bulun. On the morning of the 14th they
again started out on their weary tramp. The wind blew
strong from the southeast, and snow and sand were
drifted against their faces as they walked, so that they
could scarcely hold their eyes open. They did not make
much progress that day, and at night they found shelter
in a curious opening in the bank, two feet and a half
broad, six feet high and about fifteen yards in extent. It
was, in fact, a kind of cave funnel, the other opening
being on the top of the bank. Next day, the 16th, they
had breakfast of Arctic willow tea and portions of sealskin
pantaloons, and though the southeast wind was bitterly
cold they started out again. They crossed numerous sand
banks and small streams frozen over, and toward evening
struck the Lena proper, close to the high mountains on
the western bank (the place where De Long' s party are
now entombed). That day, thinking they might find game
on the other shore, they crossed over to the mountainous
eastern bank of the Lena, where they spent a most
wretched night in a ravine in a mountain side. They then
crossed over to the western shore of the Lena again.
They began to congratulate themselves that the streams
were at last all frozen over and wading was now unneces-
sary. That night they had to camp under the shelter of
a high bank, but, failing to find wood, they had neither
supper nor shelter, and spent another wretched night.
Next morning, the 19th, they started out again after a
288 ICE PA CK AND TUNDRA.
meal of willow tea and sealskin, going south along the
Lena. But they made little progress, being terribly
weak. Mndermann says : " We made nearly no progress
at all, and every five minutes we had to lay down to rest
on the ice." They could hardly drag themselves along,
yet they refused to give in, saying they would crawl
when they could not walk any further. But assistance
was fortunately nearer than they thought. They had
accomplished an almost superhuman task already in
walking so far with scarcely any food and in the bitter
cold. From the place where they had left the Captain
to the broken flatboat the distance is about fifteen
miles ; from that point to Matvey is fifteen or eighteen
miles in a direct line, but they had made a circuit of
nearly thirty-five ; and from Matvey to Bulkoor is offi-
cially recognized as 110 versts, or over seventy miles ;
so that they had already done nearly one hundred and
twenty miles. It must have been a terrible walk, and
from Bulkoor to Kumak Surka, a known settlement,
whither the Captain had told them to go, they had still
fifty versts, or thirty -three miles, to go. But on the even-
ing of the 19th, while Noros was walking on the edge of
the river about half a mile ahead of Mndermann, on
turning a point of land he saw a square hut perched in a
gully between two high mountains on the west bank of
the river, and going toward it saw two other huts, tent-
like structures of wood and plastered outside with mud.
These were the huts of Bulkoor.
Noros called Mndermann' s attention to the discovery,
and both went up to the huts, glad to have found shelter
for the night at least, if nothing more. They stayed there
two or three days, and then they determined that they
would make a fresh start in the morning. They believed
NINDERMANN AND NOROS.
289
the place to be Ajakit, and thought that the next place
would be Bulun. Everything was ready for the journey,
which they had fixed for the morning of the 22d ; but,
Nindermann says, on that morning, although they had felt
strong enough when sitting or lying down, they felt
hoj^elessly weak when they stood up and attempted to
walk, and therefore decided to rest there another day.
This proved fortunate for them. They were cooking their
dinner when they heard a noise outside the door that
"sounded like a flock of geese sweeping by." Ninder-
mann, who could see through the chinks of the door, said,
290 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
" They are deer." He picked up his gun and was creep-
ing up near the door when it was suddenly opened. It
was a Tunguse native, who, seeing the gun in JNmder-
mann's hands, dropped on his knees, pleading, apparently,
that they should not kill him. The two men made all
sorts of signs to assure the man of his safety. Mndermann
threw the gun away in the corner to let him see they did
not intend to harm him. It was a long time, however,
before he would enter, but after fastening his deer up — he
had driven up on a deer sled — he finally entered the hut.
Norossays: — "He began to talk, but we could not un-
derstand what he was saying. We tried to explain to
him that we wanted to go to Bulun. We were so glad
when we saw him that we could have hugged him, for we
knew then that we were pretty nearly all right. We tried
to explain to him that there were others of our party
away to the north, but he could not understand us. He
examined Mndermann' s clothes, and then brought in a
deerskin and then a pair of deerskin boots, and made ges-
tures as if to say that he would go away, but would soon
return. He held up three fingers and we thought he
meant three days. ' ' Mndermann was for keeping him, but
ISToros advised that he should be permitted to do as he
thought best, the more so as he had left articles enough
as a pledge of his wish to assist them, and anyway if he
left them they could follow the sled tracks and find him
again. Going outside the two men saw four deer, and
they afterward learned he had brought the two extra ani-
mals to put in a sled which he had left there some days
previously, but which had been used by them for their
fire.
The two men watched the Tunguse drive down the gully
at a dead run and then went into the hut to await what
MNDERMANN AND NOROS. 091
fate should bring them. They waited until darkness
came, and then they began to fear that the Tunguse did
not intend to return. Mndermann said, "We have done
wrong in letting him go." "Mght came on," Noros
says, "and we had got a little under way with our
soup when we heard sleds drive up and saw our Tunguse
coming with two other natives and five reindeer teams.
The original Tunguse came rushing into the hut, bringing
some frozen fish, deerskin coats and boots. We went for
the fish. He picked up all our things and put them on
the sleds. We put on the coats and the boots and soon
started off. This was about midnight. We were driven
about fifteen miles when we came to two large tents and
many sleds, the deer not being in sight. The natives
took us and washed our faces and hands and got us look-
ing a little decent again. They had a big kettle of deer
meat on the fire and we were motioned to help ourselves
at once. After that they made us some tea, and then
spread deerskins for us to sleep on. This was our first
comfortable night since the time we left the Captain."
The native had brought them to a camp of travelling
Tunguses, who were on their way to Kumak Surka from a
temporary settlement where they had been staying a
little further to the north. In the caravan were seven
men and three women, seventy-five head of deer dragging
thirty sleds. With this caravan Mndermann and Noros
travelled all one day and till four of the afternoon of the
next day, when they finally arrived at Kumak Snrka on
the 24th of October. Here the two men were well taken
care of, Noros at one hut and Mndermann at another.
Before this, when but a short distance on the road, a
native known as "Alexia" led Mndermann to the top
of a neighboring hill, and, pointing out the island moun-
292 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
tain of Stalbowy, asked if it was there that he had left his
companions. He said "Yes," and explained as well as
he conld that he wanted the sleds to take him there with
something for the Captain's party to eat. The native
does not seem to have understood him, for he started
down the hillside toward the sonth. They arrived at
Kumak Surka dnring the evening, and, busied with the
preparation of meals for a house full of people and with
the arrangement of bunks for the accommodation of the
guests, there was no opportunity that night to engage
their attention to the subject of his errand. The next
day, however, he had the field to himself after the morn-
ing meal had been discussed. Some one brought him the
model of a Yakout boat, which they called a "parahut"
(a corruption of the Kussian term for steamer) and asked
if his "paraliut" was like that. Then, with sticks to
represent masts and spars, he showed them that it was
bark rigged and moved by steam power also. All this
they seemed to understand perfectly and then asked how
and where they lost the ship.
Pointing toward the north he made them understand it
was very far in that direction, and, with two pieces of
ice, showed them how the ship was crushed and sank
down into the sea. Afterward he cut the models of three
small boats and put sticks in them to represent the men
in each boat, and told them, as well as he could, how, with
sleds and dogs and boats, they had crossed great seas of
broken ice and open water and finally reached the shore
of their country. He then got a piece of paper and drew
the coast line and sketched the boat, illustrating the
manner in which the landing was effected. Drawing in
the river from the coast line to the south he showed that
they walked down the east bank of the river, and marked
NINDERMANN AND NOROS. 293
the places where they found huts or encamped. He
indicated the number of days they had been walking by
putting his head down and closing his eyes as if to sleep
and counting the number of sleeps with his fingers. He
told them as plainly as he could that the Captain, or
"Kapitan," as they called it, had sent him to get clothes
and food and reindeer, and to fetch them to the settlement,
as they were very weak and in a starving condition. He
told them he had left the party sixteen days ago and that
two days before his departure they had had nothing to
eat. He used every effort to convey his meaning to the
savages who had befriended him and induce them to go
to the succor of the Captain and his party, but was not
successful. Sometimes it seemed as if they understood
him perfectly, and at others he felt convinced that they
had not understood a single thing he had told them.
During the entire day he kept talking to them by signs
and illustrations upon paper, but without avail. The
next day he renewed his efforts and resorted to every
expedient to make them understand him. He did not
ask them only to go alone, but wanted them to go with
him. Prostrated by famine and exposure and weakened
by dysentery he was in no fit condition to undertake such
a task, but his anxiety was so great that he felt con-
strained to go. This day, as on the day previous, he at
times thought he had been understood, and, again, that it
was all a blank to them. They would sigh and look
distressed when he described the sufferings and condition
of the party on the delta, but when he urged that assist-
ance should be sent to them the faces of his hearers were
totally devoid of expression. He then thought of his
companions as dead or dying, looking to his return as
their only hope for deliverance. Weakened by fatigue,
294 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
exposure and famine, and feeling how utterly powerless
he was when so much depended on him, the terrible
strain was too much for him, and this strong, brave man,
who has faced death and endured untold hardships with-
out a quiver, sank into a corner and cried like a child.
An old woman, the wife of the master of the hut, saw
him and took compassion on him, and a long conference
was held by the natives, which resulted in their endeavor-
ing to comfort him. Resting a hand tenderly upon his
shoulder they told him he should go to Bulun the next
day. He had asked to be taken there, hoping to find
some one by whom he could make himself understood,
and it was to his anxiety to reach that town that they
attributed his grief.
The next day he again asked them to take him to Bu-
lun to see the " Commandant," and they told him they
had already sent for the " Commandant," and were ex-
pecting him. During the evening the Russian exile,
Kusmah, came to the hut and Mndermann asked him if
he was the " Commandant" of Bulun. To this he an-
swered " Yes !" or at least Mndermann so understood him.
Then Kusmah asked, " ParaTcod Jeannette f " and Mnder-
mann replied " Yes ! " at the same time believing that he
had been notified by the Government at St. Petersburg of
the probability of the Jeannette 1 s arrival upon the Sibe-
rian coast and had been directed to look out for the ship' s
company. He then told, as well as he could, the whole
story of the loss of the Jeannette and the history of the
retreat, illustrating by his little chart and by sketches.
Mndermann soon felt convinced that Kusmah did not un-
derstand either the chart or his descriptions. Then he
told him that on the journey on land one man had died
and that there were eleven alive. While he was telling
NINDERMANN AND NOR OS.
295
Mm this portion of the story Kusmah kept assenting and
seemed to understand perfectly. He afterwards found that
Kusmah was alluding all the time to Mr. Melville's party,
which also consisted of eleven people. He would keep
saying, "Kapitan, yes. Two Kapitan, first Kapitan,
second Kapitan," alluding to Melville and Danenhower.
Mndermann then understood him to say he couldn' t do
anything until either one or the other of them had tele-
graphed to St. Petersburg for instructions. Therefore
Mndermann wrote a telegram addressed to the American
Minister in St. Petersburg, telling him the exact condition
of affairs, and that the Captain's party was starving and
in need of food and clothing, and while talking, before
the despatch was quite finished, Kusmah took it. Nin-
296 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
dermann thought nothing of this at the time, supposing he
was transacting business with the " Commandant " of
Bulun. Three days afterward Kusmah handed the de-
spatch to Melville at Germavelok.
From Kumak Surka the two men were sent to Bulun, a
hundred versts further south, where they arrived on the
29th of October. As soon as the " Commandant" learned
of their arrival he sent for them and gave them quarters
for the day. The next day they were transferred to the
house of the priest's assistant, but this gentleman did not
appear to know the virtues of hospitality to shipwrecked
men. After two days he sent them to the hut of a native,
who also did not provide well for the guests. In short,
the Bulun ese did not show any very praiseworthy char-
acteristics until the arrival of Melville in Bulun, who
compelled the people to furnish better food for the two
rescued men. Melville arrived at Bulun on the 2d of
November, and the remainder of his boat's crew a few
days later. He had lost no time as soon as he heard of
the existence of Mndermann and Noros in making a
move, but it was too late to benefit De Long and his party.
This was the story which Mndermann and Noros related
to me on the Lena River. It was the closing chapter of
the mournful annals of the Jeannette.
CHAPTER XXIII.
AMONG THE YAKOUTS.
Irkutsk, July 29th, 1882.
Retukning to my own mission, I was compelled to cur-
tail my visit to the delta in consequence of the prevailing
impression that the summer would arrive sooner than
usual this year, though the Ispravnik of Werchojansk,
whom I met on the road to Bulun, assured me that if I
left Werchojansk for Yakoutsk on the 6th of May I
would be in time to make the journey on sledges and in
from seven to nine days. My anxiety was to get upon the
other side of the rivers intervening between Yakoutsk
and the north before they broke up and interrupted travel.
I was glad to meet at Werchojansk a Mr. Leon, a polit-
ical exile, who spoke English quite well, and had been
very useful to Chief Melville and also to the Russian offi-
cials by acting as interpreter for them. He was well
informed concerning the history of the voyage of the
Jeannette, the remarkable retreat and the sad fate of
those who failed to reach the settlements after landing
upon the delta. He also told me all that was known con-
cerning Chief Melville's subsequent movements, and
furnished me with a chart of the Lena delta, which
was as accurate as any in existence at that time. Upon
my return to Werchojansk he hurried me off for Yakoutsk
very reluctantly, but assuring me that he felt great anxi-
ety already concerning the state of the roads, and feared
19 299
300 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
I would experience considerable difficulty in reaching my
destination. When one reflects that most of the stop-
pages upon these northern roads are in unoccupied houses
it will not be necessary to explain that provision must be
made for the entire journey before starting out from a
town like Werchojansk.
The stock at these places is very limited indeed, and at
the time I arrived provisions were scarce and dear, ren-
dered so partly by the lateness of the season and partly
by the fact that Chief Melville, in equipping his search
party, was compelled to draw heavily from their limited
stores. The articles to provide are cooking utensils, such
as a copper tea-kettle, a china or metal teapot, a frying
pan and a copper pot for boiling meat ; tea, sugar, fresh
and dried bread, fresh meat and fish. Then, also, it will
be found convenient to have tea-cups and saucers, large
spoons for soup and small spoons for tea, plates of iron
plated with porcelain, and knives and forks. Many of
these articles are luxuries, and may, if found too cumber-
some, be dispensed with — as, for instance, knives and
forks and plates, for a man can eat with his fingers ; tea-
cups and saucers, for a wooden bowl will answer. He can
do without spoons, for perhaps he may have no sugar, and
he can drink his soup from the same bowl which he uses
for tea, or he can drink right out of the pot it was cooked
in, the same as do the natives ; but it is well to provide
one's self with the articles named, though perhaps to be
abandoned if found necessary. One is not likely to be
surfeited with luxuries in this country, and can safely
trust himself with the articles I have mentioned. In lay-
ing in your stores of provisions it is well to remember that
the yemsJieeks expect a little reward in the shape of civ-
ilized food, and though it is not in the bond that they
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 301
shall receive it it must be a hard heart that can withstand
their eager, expectant look as they watch every process
of cooking and eating. So if you have not taken this item
into consideration you will find yourself short of provi-
sions before the end of your trip.
A proper sled is another desideratum. Dog sledges
require to be lighter and to run more easily than reindeer
sledges, while horse sledges are more cumbersome than
either of the others. In travelling continuously — that is,
night and day — it will be found more comfortable to have
a covered sled to protect you from the wind and snow
and allow you to sleep occasionally. This is seldom
allowable, however, with dog teams, as they are not
generally used upon stations, but for the entire route,
from one distant point to another, where other animals
cannot be procured. It is not that dogs are not strong
enough, for one good dog team will carry the loads of
about six reindeer teams — that is, a single dog can pull
nearly as much as a single reindeer. When heavily
loaded, however, the dogs travel slowly, while reindeer
always trot along at a lively pace. Yakout horses are
probably the slowest of all animals except oxen, while
the horses upon the post roads of Siberia west of Irkutsk
are about the same as those of other countries. I left
Werchojansk in the same sled that had carried me
through from Sradnia Kolymsk to the portion of the Lena
where dogs only are available. It was a light sled,
covered with reindeer skins to keep out the wind. It had
to be repaired repeatedly, and whenever we halted suffi-
ciently long for such a purpose it was thoroughly over-
hauled, so that when I say it was the same sled when I
left Werchojansk I may make a mistake ; it may have
been entirely new by that time, for there I had a new
302 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA. >
cover put on of thin reindeer skin with the hair scraped
off. I managed to retain my sled for three stations, the
last one being drawn almost all the way over bare gronnd.
After that I had to mount a horse, and experienced all
the misfortunes attending such a mode of travel.
The Yakout horses of Northern Siberia can scarcely be
called horses — they are a sort of domesticated wild ani-
mal. They are small, ill-shaped and awkward, with
thick hair and very long and heavy mane and tail. The
front lock often entirely conceals the eyes and the whole
YAKOUT HORSE.
front of the head. They stumble and fall in the most
unexpected and unnecessary places, and when down
make no effort to assist themselves to their feet. They
simply stick out their heads to reach for such dried, frost-
killed grass or bunches of shrubs as may be within reach
until urged to self -assistance by the kicks and voice of
their driver. They follow each other in long lines, and it
is almost impossible to make a Yakout horse go alongside
of another — he wants either to be ahead or behind. This
arises from the fact that they are mostly used as pack
animals, and are then driven in lines, the hinder animal
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 303
tied to the tail of the one preceding. Thns also they are
harnessed in sledges, with a single trace passing around
the bow of the sled and fastened to the tail of the leading
horse to keep it from beneath their feet. I don't mean
that the first horse pulls his share of the load entirely by
his tail. The trace is first fastened to the saddle, and,
passing back toward the sled, is attached to the horse's
tail to keep it up from the ground when occasionally
it slackens. The saddle is always placed by the Yakouts
in the middle of the horse's back, is an open tree like
the McClellan, with a high, square pommel, often hand-
somely ornamented with silver and gold of native metal
and workmanship highly creditable to their skill in the
mechanical arts. The saddle is mounted upon a pad of
straw, and the effect when a horse is ready saddled for
the road is something like a camel. The natives generally
pile a coat or two on the saddle under them, and when
mounted are perched high up in the air in what, to one
accustomed to civilized accoutrements, seems a very awk-
ward and uncomfortable position. It is quite an art, too,
to mount one of these saddles perched in the centre of a
horse's back, and the stirrup depending almost imme-
diately from the pommel. If you rise upon your left foot
in the stirrup and raise your right leg horizontally over
the horse's back you will find yourself ten times to one
on the horse's neck just in front of the pommel, and as it
is next to impossible to get back over a pommel eight to
ten inches high you have to slide ignominiously down
over the horse's head to the ground and try it over again.
They are perfectly docile — provokingly so — they have not
animation enough to be wicked. One could well wish for
a little of the mustang or broncho spirit. Their favorite
gait is a walk so slow and deliberate that you lose all
304
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
patience and force them into a trot if possible. Now you
have all the exercise you require, for their trot is like
unto nothing known to the outside world. They rise in
the air and straighten out their legs and then come down
upon the end that has the foot on it, the recoil bouncing
you high up from your seat and just in time to meet the
saddle as it is coming up for the next step. It is for all
the world like constant bucking. Soon you have pains in
your limbs and chest and hold your breath as long as
GROUP OF BOKIAKS.
possible in order to keep it from being driven entirely
out of your body. There is no comfort in the saddle upon
such horses. The Yakouts, as well as the Boriaks, who are
very similar in their nature and habits, although brought
up among horses and living upon them in more senses than
one — for horseflesh is a delicacy to these people — are not
good horsemen. They neither sit well nor manage their
horses well. Later I saw many Tartars. They also have
many horses and are perfect horsemen. It is a pleasure
to see them mounted. They sit upon their horses as if
AMONG THE YAKOUTS.
305
306
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
3
LO
a
§
HpBj'Tcraro OOmaro ryOepecKflro yDpaujicHia iN& %$?!
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 307
they belonged there. Indeed I understand they some-
times sit other people's horses in the same way, as most
of them I saw are exiled horse thieves. Beyond Ya-
koutsk, that is, south of that city, you begin to find
horses that have been improved by breeding with Euro-
pean stock and a much superior class of animals. The
country is traversed with post roads plentifully supplied
with horses that cost but little and are capable of the
hard work demanded of them. And when I speak of a
plentiful supply I do not mean that on your arrival at a
post station you are sure to find horses waiting to convey
you to the next post station.
The probability is that your demand for horses will be
met with the reply, " LorsTiad naytoo" (no horses), and
you will have to wait for from forty minutes to several
hours before you can resume your journey. Between
Werchojansk and Yakoutsk it is still worse. It is no
unusual experience at the season I passed over the road
not only to find no animals at the stations but no station
master nor any one else. Nothing, in fact, but an empty
house. Several times I had to help drive before us horses
that we picked up on the prairie so I would have them at
the next station. Finally, after much tribulation, I reached
the station of Kingyorak, at the foot of the Werchojansk
Mountains. Here were neither horses nor reindeer. In-
deed horses would have been of no use whatever on this
route, as the valleys on either side of the mountain were
filled with soft snow, partially thawed by the sun, which
now, in the early part of May, was quite powerful. There
was a presumable beaten track made by reindeer teams,
which were employed on this route as far as within thirty
versts of the Aldan River. Horses travel in this part of
the country in single file, as before explained, and would
308 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
consequently be between the tracks made by the reindeer,
which are driven side by side in double teams. Horses,
therefore, would sink out of sight in the valleys, as it
was only possible to travel, if at all, upon this beaten
path. When I found there were no reindeer at the station
I at once hired one of my yemslieeks to hunt up the
savages in the neighborhood and employ some of them to
convey me to the south side of the Aldan, some 230 versts
distant. I at last succeeded in securing a sufficient num-
ber of reindeer from a camp of Yakouts about ten versts
from the station, and a promise that they would come for
me by nine o'clock.
In the meantime a Tunguse arrived at the station with a
team of fine large reindeer, and said he had plenty of
them at his camp, which was thirty versts off. He told
me he would take me on my journey in case the Yakout
team did not arrive, and I would have preferred his escort
to the others, as I have always found the Tunguses and
Lamoots much more reliable and honorable than the
Yakouts. For instance, Mr. Bobookoff, who, with some
baggage from Chief Melville's search party, had preceded
me over the same road, was compelled to hire teams from
some wandering Tunguses in the vicinity of this station,
and paid in advance twenty-five rubles for their services.
The next morning when they came for him with their
teams they asked if he did not belong to the American
party that was expected over the road. He told them he
did, and had some of their baggage in his charge "In
that case," replied the driver, " I cannot accept your
money, for the Ispravnik of the district has sent word
that we must help the Americans all we can; you are
therefore welcome to the use of my reindeer." With this
he returned the money to Mr. Bobookoff and proceeded
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 311
with him to the Aldan. I had a somewhat similar expe-
rience with an old Lamoot whom I had employed for fifteen
rubles to carry me and my baggage abont fifty versts over
a very bad road. He received the money during the eve-
ning and came for me about midnight, but before starting
he returned me five rubles of the money, saying that upon
reflection he thought the job was not worth more than ten.
It would be an interesting sight to behold a Yakout re-
turning any money he had ever received, whether justly
or unjustly, unless forced to do it. I much prefer the
Tunguse character and the Lamoot. About the ap-
pointed hour my Yakout yemsheeks came with a lot of
small, thin reindeer, and I was disgusted with them, but
subsequently found that they were better for work at this
season than the fat, strong ones would have been. It was
but ten versts from the station to the foot of the moun-
tains, and yet we did not reach that spot until about four
o'clock the next morning. All night long the yemsTieeks
were walking in front of their teams and sounding with
long poles through the deep snow to keep upon the beaten
path. Occasionally one of them would lose the track and
would go almost out of sight in the deep snow. We
crossed the mountains as soon as we reached them. As
we approached I saw four sleds drawn by reindeer coming
down the mountain side, and in the distance they looked
like centipedes crawling upon a wall, so steep was the
descent. When we met the drivers of these sleds we
ascertained that they were the Tunguses who had taken
Mr. Bobookoff to the Aldan and were just returning.
They reported the road as in a fearful condition, and so
we found it to be.
There was one thing that I remarked at this time —
namely, the delicious melody of the Yakout tongue as
312 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
spoken in the conversation with my drivers and Cossack.
I had never before noticed this peculiarity, though subse-
quently it was a matter of constant remark. It seemed to
me like a blending of the Irish and Italian dialects, with
the crisp, rolling gutturals of the one, modified by the
soft musical tones of the other.
Soon we commenced the ascent of this mountain, which
proved a sore task. There could be no passengers on the
sleds ; all had to climb as best they could. I found it
impossible to advance more than eight or ten paces at a
time through the soft snow, and felt convinced that with-
out the adhesive qualities it then possessed I could not
have accomplished so much. When at last the summit
was attained there were but six or eight paces before the
descent commenced upon the other side, and as I stood
there upon the peak looking down it appeared almost an
absolute impossibility to make the descent without per-
sonal injury. Following the direction and example of my
guide, the Cossack, I sat down and worked my passage as
best I could, and, at the end of three-quarters of an hour,
I found myself about two-thirds of the way to the base.
Looking back, I saw that the yemsJieeks had lashed the
six sleds three abreast, with the reindeer astern, and with
one man holding firmly on either side, their feet planted
forward in the snow, and the reindeer holding back as
much as possible, the descent was safely accomplished ;
but even from where I stood, though still on the mountain
side, it appeared as if the reindeer were standing on their
heads and the men were sliding down a perpendicular
wall. I believe there is no parallel to this pass upon any
known road. I have been informed that in midwinter,
before the early summer sun has softened the snow, the
mountain side is a sheet of ice, and the passage is even
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 313
more difficult than when I crossed. At that season one is
obliged to sit down astride of a stick, which he must
manage as a brake, and regulate his speed with great skill
or else the descent becomes exceedingly dangerous. From
the summit to the valley on the south side the slope is ten
versts long, and the gathered momentum of an unob-
structed slide from the top may be imagined. There are
one or two places in the descent where one can divert his
course to a sort of platform and recover his wind and
courage to finish the descent. What an opportunity for
coasting ! I don't believe there is a boy living who ever
dreamed of such a lark as to pass this mountain on run-
ners. We found the road through the valley quite as bad
as it had been reported, and at ten o'clock were compelled
to halt until the cool evening had hardened the surface so
as to enable us to proceed.
My yemsheeJcs had refused to bargain for conveying
me further than to the station of Beerdakool, ninety
versts south of Kingyorak, but before we reached that
point informed me that I would find the place deserted
and uninhabitable. They said that for an additional
exorbitant sum they would take me sixty versts further
on, where there was an uninhabited povarnniar, near
which lived a tribe of Lamoots, who would take me to
the Aldan for the regular price — that is, nine kopecks
(four and a half cents) a verst. They also agreed to go to
the Lamoot camp and bring some of the tribe to me to
make the necessary arrangements. I could, of course, do
nothing else than accept their terms, as otherwise. there
was a strong probability of my starving at this house
during the season, when the rivers break up, and there is
no communication between one part of the country and
another until the water falls. As an excuse for charging
314 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
me so much for this second stretch they told me that
shortly after leaving the station we must cross a river
which was filled with surface water to a great depth, and
there was every prospect of our being drowned. At this
they commenced crossing themselves and praying, and, to
add to our other discomforts, the first rain storm of the
season set in. I knew the effect of a warm rain upon ice,
and felt considerable alarm concerning the condition of the
ice upon the Aldan, which I was hastening to cross before
it broke. When within ten versts of the little river which
they expressed so much fear of crossing these incorrigible
miscreants insisted upon stopping in the woods to cook
tea, though they had halted for that purpose but two
hours before. All my persuasion and threats were of no
avail in forcing them to proceed until the little river had
been passed until I produced a pistol from my pocket.
That was enough. The moment that inducement was
offered they exclaimed " Piadjet!" (go) and moved off at
once. On the trees near the bank of this stream were
hung similar gifts to the deities to those described as hung
upon the cross between the Kolyma and Werchojansk.
My drivers made similar offerings and crossed themselves
most fervently before we descended to the ice. I think
their appeals must have been heard and answered, for we
found less water upon the ice than in many holes in the
main road through which we had already passed, and
effected the crossing without any difficulty worth notic-
ing. From where we halted for tea on the south side of
this river I sent one of the yemsheeks ahead to have the
Lamoots at the povarnniar when we arrived, so that no
time need be lost in getting away, and gave him a liberal
reward for his extra services as messenger. Upon arriving
at the povarnniar later in the afternoon I found it a most
AMONG THE YAKOUTS. 315
miserable hovel, the rain streaming through the roof, so
that it was impossible to find shelter. It was not alto-
gether rain, either, for that is at least clean white, while
this water dribbled through a roof of turf, and was simply
mud. The floor was covered with water, and one could
only walk around on pieces of wood that had been placed
around for that purpose There was no chimney— simply
a hole in the roof over the fireplace for the smoke to
escape, which it sometimes did. Here I found the sub-
Prefect of the police district of the Kolyma, whom I had
previously met at Sradnia Kolymsk, with his wife and little
girl, of about twelve years. They had been here in this
miserable hut for four days waiting for transportation,
but could obtain no animals. Here, also, I found my
Yakout messenger, who had not been to the Lamoot
camp at all. He said there was a deep river intervening
and he could not cross it, but promised to make another
attempt that evening in company with the other yemsheek.
The reindeer were sent to a feeding ground in charge of a
Lamoot boy ; but, much against my desire, they were
allowed to put all their effects on their sled which went
with the reindeer. I felt convinced that they would make
no further effort to reach the Lamoot camp, but would
wait until we slept and then go for their animals and drive
home. I expressed my fears to the sub-Prefect, or "Pro-
moshnik," as he is termed in Russian, but he and the Cos-
sack both assured me I need have no fear of that, and I,
believing they should know more of the character of
these people than I, reluctantly submitted to this arrange-
ment. It had been my intention to hold one of the men
as hostage, and, in case the Lamoots did not arrive in the
morning, to compel them to go on with me to the Aldan.
Their reindeer were in excellent condition, and it was only
316 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
fifty versts to where I would find horses to carry me over
the river. If I had been allowed to have my own way I
would have been able to cross the Aldan before the ice
broke, and been spared much anxiety and suffering ; but I
foolishly trusted to the judgment of others instead of fol-
lowing the rule laid down by Lieutenant Schwatka, who
has said that " a man travelling in the North, or in any
unknown country, must depend upon his own judgment
and not upon the advice of others if he would be success-
ful." As I had anticipated, the Yakout yemsheelcs went
off home during the night and left me in this forlorn hovel
without means of moving, and without food to sustain
life until the swollen rivers had subsided and travel could
be resumed upon the roads.
20
CHAPTER XXIY.
CAUGHT BY THE FLOODS.
Irkutsk, July §\st, 1882.
Dttking the day following my arrival my Cossack took
the Lamoot boy as a guide and started for the camp,
which was twenty versts distant, carrying with him a
hatchet to cnt a log upon which to pass the little river if
unable to ford it. He returned during the evening with
the grateful information that they would take me to the
inhabited house I desired to reach that night, if their
reindeer returned, which had gone a long distance away
to bring home the carcasses of three large elk that had
recently been killed by one of their hunters. They did
not come that night, but the night following arrived
about midnight, while in the meantime about eight horses
came from the Aldan to promote the journey. We there-
fore took all the people on the sleds and left the baggage
to be brought on horses. The roads were getting worse
and worse every day, and nearly every day it rained, so
that the roads were filled with water, and for versts at a
time the sled and everything on it was completely sub-
merged. It was such a day's travel that one would be
loath to repeat, but finally we arrived at the house, or
hut, as it should be called, completely worn out and
drenched to the skin. Our baggage arrived later, but the
roads were so bad that two of the horses had to be aban-
doned and the yemsheeks came in on foot. At this house
319
320 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
we learned that the Aldan, which was now but thirty
versts distant, had not yet broken, but that the Lena
had, and the ice was moving down, so that the Aldan
might be expected to break any day. There was, there-
fore, no time to be lost, so we started early in the morn-
ing mounted upon the six poor horses that had brought
our baggage the day before. We could, therefore, only
VIEW ON THE UPPER LENA.
take our blankets, a teakettle and a very small amount of
food, only sufficient for the day. We expected to cross
the river and reach the station, where we would find suffi-
cient to eat until our baggage arrived the next day. This
was a more disagreeable day than the previous, for, though
I thought it impossible, the roads were even worse than
those we had passed. Almost the whole distance was
CAUGHT BY THE FLOODS. 321
through frozen swamp land, upon which the water had
drained from the adjacent high land, and the horses had
to wade through water up to their bellies, treading upon
the treacherous icy bottom, and, being without shoes, it
was almost impossible for them to keep their feet. The
little girl was mounted behind the Cossack. Once his
horse fell and he and the horse both rolled over the little
one, and I thought she was drowned, when some one
riding behind jumped from his horse and rescued the
poor frightened creature from her perilous position.
Nearly every horse in the party fell several times.
Several small streams had to be crossed that were already
swollen and we had to seek another than the regular
crossing place. Sometimes we would have to leap from
our saddles to the shore and help the struggling horses to
land.
At last, about ten o'clock in the evening, we reached
the bank of the Aldan, to find it already broken up, and
heavy ice going down stream at the rate of fourteen versts
an hour. Our worst fears were realized. It was now too
late and too dark to find our way back to the house we
had left, where we could pass the time until the water fell,
and we went about three versts along the bank of the
river to the point where the crossing is always made, di-
rectly opposite the station. Here we cooked some meat
with drift-wood, and then lay down to sleep till morning,
when light enough to find our way back through the net-
work of little rivers that began to traverse the country in
every direction. They told me it would be from eight to
twenty days before the ice left the river free enough to
cross in a boat, and this intervening time we would have
to pass in a hut about ten versts back from the river.
We got up about eight o'clock in the morning, cooked
322 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
some more meat, and then started to return along the river
bank by the route we had come.
I noticed that the water in the river was much
higher than when we lay down at night, but did not think
much of it until we found that our retreat was cut off less
than a verst from where we slept. The yemsheeJc said
there was another way out by passing around a lake behind
where we had slept, but on attempting that route we found
we were cut off there also, so we had now nothing else to
do but to select the highest piece of ground we could find,
and there await the falling of the waters. This was not a
very pleasant prospect, with our baggage thirty versts
away and with our last meal already eaten. We had a
little tea left, and that was all. The highest ground we
could find was not much above the general level, and
when I saw water marks four feet high upon the trees
near us I began to feel a little nervous. We had little
time for reflection, however, for there was plenty to do.
We cut brush and made a hut that would afford a little
shelter from the wind, and covering it with some skin
blankets and the saddle pads stopped a good deal of the
rain from coming through when we slept. In the mean-
time I had set a tide gauge, and found the water rising at
the rate of twelve inches an hour. At this rate it would
only require four hours more to put the floor of our house
under water. This was a dismal prospect, but while I
was looking around for some place where, in an emergency,
we could hang the woman and child up in the trees while
we swam around and caught fish for them I again ex-
amined my tide gauge and found the water had been
stationary for twelve minutes, and soon afterward it was
subsiding. It went down as rapidly as it rose, and by
evening a fall of six feet was observed. The ice, from one
CAUGHT BY THE FLOODS. 323
to three feet thick, which had been coursing like a
race-horse through the inlet or temporarily submerged
land in the rear of our camp, carrying before it masses of
drift-wood and tearing up trees in its course most omi-
nously, was now aground. We had six horses with us
and had no fear of starving, but felt the need of an axe
about as seriously as anything else. Later my Cossack
and the Promoshnik rode out to inspect the road to the hut
in rear of us and returned with the report that it was
feasible. We therefore decided to move there in the
morning. Now there seemed no danger of serious disas-
ters, and we slept soundly and comfortably except for a
miserable snow and rain storm that drove into the open
doorway of our brush hut.
I can in no way better describe the alternate hope and
anxiety that were our portion for the next few days than
by copying directly from my little pocket journal the
pages relating to our lagoon camp :
May 17th. — The second day of our residence in the
brush. For variety we have had thunder storms all day
long, with occasional glimpses of the sun, just sufficient to
tempt us to hang out our wet blankets and clothes, merely
to get them more thoroughly drenched before we could
again get them under cover. Tried the road to the povarn-
niar and found it impassable, and nothing before us but
to sit in this swamp until the river is passable. During the
afternoon I walked around to where we had slept on the
river bank the night of our arrival, and found the ground
all wet from having been submerged, and great cakes of ice
from one to five feet thick twenty or thirty yards further
inland than where we had lain. Stood for some time on
an immense cake of grounded ice and gazed wistfully
across the three versts of water, filled with moving ice, to
324 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
where the station is located, not more than four versts
from me. We held a council of war after returning from
our unsuccessful attempt to retreat this morning, and
decided that, as we would be compelled eventually to kill
a horse for food to save us from starvation, we might as
well kill it now and not wait until starved into it.
Consequently the yemsTteek was directed to slaughter
an animal. I assisted at the operation, which was a novel
one. Fastened the horse's hind legs to a tree and then
passed a line attached to his fore feet around a tree in
front of him. We all pulled on one end of this line, and
when the horse began struggling pulled his feet forward,
thus throwing him down. His legs were then secured and
the yemsTteek stabbed him behind the ears, severing the
spinal column. He was soon skinned and dressed, but as
we were all very hungry a piece of meat was cut off im-
mediately from his hind leg and boiled in the teakettle.
When I returned from my walk to the river bank I was
called to eat and thought I was eating beef ; thought it
was some they had saved and gave to me, believing that
horseflesh would be repugnant to my palate. Don't be-
lieve I could tell the difference between horse and cow
except that horse meat is harder and tougher. Slept
soundly with a full stomach.
May 18th. — Breakfasted and dined upon horseflesh and
spent the time, as we have done ever since encamping
here, trying to dry our clothes, but continued rain and
snow storms have prevented. I have been wishing for a
change of wind, and this evening it seems to have settled
down from the southwest, and blows the smoke from our
fire right into the open front of our hut. We may look for
better weather, I think, if it continue from that direction.
I would like to pass the time writing but dare not open
CAUGHT BY THE FLOODS. 325
my box in this unsettled state of the weather ; it wonld
bring on a deluge surely. Ever since about one o'clock
yesterday the water has been rising in the low land be-
hind our brush hut, until at two p.m. to-day it stood six
inches higher than at the highest day before yesterday.
Then in an hour and a half it settled an inch and stays
there without change. There, I think, it will continue for
perhaps the ten or twenty days they say it takes for
things to settle down after the breaking up of the rivers.
In that case we can hope for no relief from behind us, but
must wait patiently for the river to clear of ice and a boat
can come from the other side. If we could only get our
baggage up and have some clean clothes and tobacco, and
something else to eat besides horseflesh it would be a
relief. Took a walk to see how the river looked, but
could not reach the place where we first slept. Returning
to camp at half -past six, found the water rising at the
rate of three inches an hour and within about two feet
of reaching our hut, which is on the highest ground we
could find. Looks bad. I don't like this slow and con-
tiued rise.
May 19th. — Woke up at six o'clock to find the water
rising rapidly and close to our hut. Walked to where I
could get a distant view of the river and saw it still full
of ice moving rapidly and the water well up on the land
all around us. Soon the water reached our fire and put
it out, and we had to move it to another spot a little
higher, where we cooked some horse meat for breakfast.
At half -past seven the water was in our hut. Opened my
box and put my most important papers in my pocket and
inside the lining of my vest. Moved our place of rest
twice and now at a quarter past nine are on the best spot
we can find, where we must await events as they transpire.
326 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
The water still coming in very fast. Feel the need of an
axe more than anything else. I never knew of such
idiocy as to come away without one. I saw one slung in
its leathern case outside the house before we started and
took it for granted they meant to bring it. It must have
been forgotten at the last minute. My Cossack and the
Promoshnik have crossed themselves and said their prayers
and are now stretched out on a big log sleeping. The
rest of us are seated on the log, with our feet up on it
to keep them out of the water, which now pervades every
spot of ground in the vicinity of our camp. I am glad
my Cossack is asleep, for when awake he does nothing
but scold the poor yemsheek for getting us into the
dilemma, while I look upon it as his fault for insisting
upon going up to the crossing place the night we arrived.
I feel more anxiety for the woman and child than for the
rest of us, as we can make shift somehow, even if we have
to climb a tree. If we only had an axe we could build a
raft and cross the inlet to ground from which we could
reach the povarnniar, which is only four versts off that
way. I lose my temper whenever I think of the axe.
At ten a.m. the water began falling and went down at
the same rate it came up — three inches an hour. This
evening it is comparatively pleasant — that is, no snow or
rain — and there being no wind all shouted across the river
and finally got a response. They sent the fool of a yem-
sheek to talk with them, and he could not understand,
though, notwithstanding being along distance behind him,
I could hear them distinctly ; but every time they com-
menced talking he would do the same and drown their
voices. There is one good thing about it, however — they
know at the station that we are here and will send a boat
over as soon as possible. At six p.m. the water has gone
CAUGHT BY THE FLOODS. 327
down two feet and we can again occnpy onr hnt. The
ice in the river seems to me to be looser than before.
May 20th. — A fine day and the river nearly cleared of
ice. Only a thin, narrow strip of ice along this shore.
This evening, after shouting an hour, got a response that
the boat would be over in the morning. Spent most of
the day in writing.
By evening the water had gone down as low as I had
seen it at any time there, and our anxiety was about at
an end. During the afternoon of the next day a small
boat came over with two Yakouts, who brought some tea,
flour and the awful butter mixed with tallow which is
made by the Yakout housewives. The supper that fol-
lowed was a most sumptuous one — boiled horse meat,
with rye cakes, made by mixing the flour with water and
baked on a twig stuck in the ground before the fire. Af-
terward tea boiled in the same pot in which the meat had
been cooked and retaining somewhat the flavor of soup.
After tea Michael, the Cossack, went back across the
river in the little boat with the Yakouts to get some milk,
sugar, tobacco and wild geese from the station master.
We had been entirely out of tobacco for several days, and
had adopted numerous devices to procure a smoke. The
bark of the pine tree was chopped up fine and mixed
with the stem of an old pipe which had also been cut fine,
and, being rank with nicotine, gave some tobacco flavor
to the mixture. Our yemsheeJc started back for the
house where the baggage had been left to bring it up, but
found the land still inundated behind our camp and was
compelled to return.
During the next day the big boat came over from the
station, propelled by about a dozen men and boys, and
bringing an extra horse and a bull with its sled to carry
328 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA,
our baggage to the boat. This was the first bull sled I
had seen and it was as such a great curiosity. They are
used on land devoid of snow, and the driver, often a
woman or girl, sits astride of the animal, not upon the
sled. I have occasionally met on the road a man mounted
upon a bull and guiding it by means of a small rope
attached to a ring in its nose. He would have a saddle,
too, to sit upon, while his wife walked alongside or ahead
of him through all the slush and water. But she was
only a woman and he was a man. I found at the station
two Cossacks with the post, who had left Werchojansk
ten days ahead of me, and another Cossack with a pris-
oner whom he was taking from Yakoutsk to Werchojansk.
I also learned that Mr. Bobookoff was at a house ten
versts away and completely surrounded with water. The
roads were all reported to be in a fearful condition and
travel impossible. That night Mr. Bobookoff arrived,
having been informed that I was at the station. I was
very glad indeed to meet him, for he spoke French, and
since I left Werchojansk I had seen no one with whom I
could talk. He told me he had been twelve days at the
house where he was now living, unable to get away, as the
roads were filled with water and there were several rivers
to cross which were too deep to ford. Besides this there
were no animals to be had and no boats at the rivers.
He had sent his Cossack forward to report the condition
of affairs, and expected horses from a village half way to
Yakoutsk, and had ordered boats to be taken on bull
sleds to the rivers en route.
CHAPTER XXV.
END OF THE JOUKNEY.
Irkutsk, August 2d, 1882.
My baggage did not arrive until the 26th of May, when
I started immediately in company with Mr. Bobookoff,
who had with him the box containing the records and rel-
ics found with the bodies of Captain De Long and his
companions at the Lena mouth. We found the roads in a
fearful condition, and bridges broken down. Twice during
the night we had to unload the horses before crossing
the bridges, which we temporarily repaired. The horse
which carried the heavy box containing the relics fell six
or seven times in crossing small but deep and swift
streams, which beset our path continually, but the larger
river, which we had to cross in a boat, was passed without
accident, though the current was almost like a waterfall.
The horses swam the river, guided and sustained by a
rope of twigs made by the natives, a ad exceedingly
strong, though not particularly flexible. All the baggage
was transferred on the boat, and, as might be imagined, I
watched the box containing the precious relics of the un-
fortunate heroes from the Jeannette with considerable
anxiety, and drew a long breath when I saw it safely
landed on the opposite shore. We reached the next
station at half past one o'clock in the morning, to find
it deserted and half filled with water. By making a
long detour we managed to pass the submerged land, and
331
332 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
four hours later reached a Yakout house five versts from
the station. We made a bargain with the inhabitants to
take us to the house of the Opraveur, or writer, a petty
officer of the Government, living half way between the
Aldan and Yakoutsk.
The country here is more thickly peopled than further
north, but the houses are of the same construction — logs
notched into each other at the corners and a flat roof of
logs closely laid and covered with a thick layer of turf.
The whole outside of the structure is afterward smeared
with manure. The rich Yakouts live just like the poor
ones — the same kind of houses, one little end reserved for
the family, and the other filled with cows and calves. At
the season I passed through this country these people live
entirely upon milk, rich and poor alike. The milk is
boiled with the inner bark of the pine tree, pounded first
to break the fibres. Sometimes this dish is improved
with a gallon or two of minnows, caught in traps that
are set for the purpose in every lake and stream. I have
eaten of this dish with these people in the fashionable
style — that is, each male is provided with a large wooden
spoon, and the pot is set in the middle of the table, so that
every one can fish for himself. When one is hungry
it is a very palatable dish, but I cannot understand how
great, strong men can be satisfied to subsist on milk when
they have an abundance of cattle. Perhaps it is this milk
diet that makes such cowards of these people. We
reached the village where the Opraveur lives the second
day, with the Yakout horses, and again crossed a flood in
boats.
We were entertained for the night at the house of a
quaint-looking old priest, who was all kindness and atten-
tion and brought us such delicacies from his slender
END OF THE JOURNEY. 333
stock as boiled beef, biscuit, tea with sugar, and pickled
fish. He also opened his heart and brought out his bot-
tle of wdJca and piously blessed the liquor each time be-
fore he joined with us in a glass of the beverage. After
refreshment he took a guitar, upon which he played very
skilfully, and, for my especial edification, played several
negro melodies which he had learned while on a visit to
San Francisco many years ago. Afterward he played and
sang a number of comic Russian songs in a minor key,
each verse concluding with a lively "tol-la-rol-lol," which
he gave with great spirit, keeping time to the measure
with his foot. Then followed some Spanish love songs,
equally well rendered, and I was as much pleased as sur-
prised to hear such good music from so unusual an instru-
ment in the wilds of Siberia and from a long robed and
long haired old priest, who looked more like a backwoods-
man of America than a musician. But he was a dear,
good old soul, and I shall ever remember with the greatest
pleasure his successful efforts to entertain his weary
guests. We were also indebted to him for some fresh
provisions with which to continue our journey the next
day. Since my diet of horse meat I had lived entirely
upon wild ducks and geese purchased for a nominal price
from the Yakouts we encountered en route.
Two stations further on I met a newly married Yakout
bride and groom, and from my companion, Mr. Bobookoff,
who speaks the Yakout language well, I learned the mar-
riage rites of those people. A young man buys a wife
from her father for from fifty to five hundred rubles,
varying according to her beauty and accomplishments and
the earnestness or wealth of the swain. After the purchase
the father of the affianced bride again takes possession of
her and the lover is not allowed even to see her for a year.
334 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
After that interval they are married by a priest and again
subjected to an agonizing separation of twenty days, at
the termination of which they can fly to each other's arms
and none can pnt them asunder. What devotion must
animate their bosoms to outlive such cruel parting with-
out one sly glance to replenish the fires of love ! No com-
munication whatever, not even a valentine, may pass be-
tween them, for I never saw but one Yakout who could
read or write. I expressed my admiration of this sincere
love to my friend Bobookoff ; but that cynic scouted the
idea of love. He said it was simply a matter of money.
The young man paid his rubles, and intended to get some-
thing for them, if it was only a wife. He says true love
would have died for want of nourishment long before the
first term of separation was ended. The young man can't
be false, for he has already paid all the money he has,
and could not afford to be unfaithful. Pshaw ! I despise
such incredulity, but my friend Bobookoff is an ex-exile,
and is, perhaps, entitled to his lack of faith in humanity.
I reached the bank of the Lena late in the afternoon of
May 30th, twenty-seven days after my departure from
Werchojansk, wearied, hungry and dirty. After crossing
the quicksands, where our horses sank nearly to their
bellies, we reached a cluster of houses, and there found
Sergeant Kolinkon, the Cossack who had accompanied
Mr. Bobookoff to the island house where I found him
after crossing the Aldan. He had come out from Ya-
koutsk to meet us, and brought some fresh beefsteak,
bread and several interesting looking bottles. He also
brought the Governor's greeting to me and a request that
I should call upon him as soon as I arrived. The next
day we reached Yakoutsk, having crossed the river,
which here is fifteen versts wide, during the night, while
END OF THE JOURNEY. 337
I slept, overcome with fatigue and the happy feeling of
relief that the hardest part of my long journey was ended.
My old friend, M. de Varowa, came out on the road to
meet me and conducted me to his residence, where "La
petite N any ah" welcomed me with apparent pleasure as
an old companion on the road. Soon a messenger came
from the Governor with the request that I would call upon
him at once, as there was now with him a gentleman who
speaks English and who would act as an interpreter for
us. To my apology for appearing in my dirty clothes of
the road the old General politely replied that he was
ashamed to hear an old soldier apologize to another for
the accidents of a campaign, and received me with the ut-
most cordiality, compelling me to stay and dine with him
informally comme a la guerre.
Our interpreter was Captain Jurgens, of the Russian
navy, who was on his way to the Lena delta to establish a
meteorological station as one of Russia's links in the
chain of stations to take synchronous observations encir-
cling the world within the Arctic. During the period of
my stay at Yakoutsk I received the kindest attention on
all sides, and there formed friendships that, though they
may remain but as recollections, will always be among the
pleasantest and most sincere of my life. General Tcher-
naieff, the Governor, was more like a father to me than
a host, and the Lieutenant Governor, Basil Priklonsky, a
true brother. Captain Jurgens, though himself a visitor,
was unremitting in attention and most patiently per-
formed the onerous duties of interpreter, at all times
sacrificing his personal comfort for my benefit.
Seven days after my arrival the search party arrived
from the Lena delta and shared with me the hospitality
of our friends in Yakoutsk. Chief Melville and his im-
21
338 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
mediate companions, Bartlett, Mndermann and Greenbek
were old friends, and bnt renewed the relations of the
previous winter. Captain Berry and Ensign Hunt, of the
Rodgers, met them, as I had done, for the first time.
But all united in feelings of the warmest friendship and
deepest gratitude to the officers of the Russian Govern-
ment in Yakoutsk. On the 11th of June we all embarked
upon the little steamer Pioneer, and were accompanied to
the landing by about half of the citizens of Yakoutsk,
including the officers of the Government, who had come
thus far to take a final farewell. Many were the warm
hand shakings and earnest protestations of enduring
friendship, while I, who had become Russianized in Sibe-
ria almost as easily as I had become uncivilized among
the savages of the North, kissed and was kissed repeat-
edly by nearly all the — horrors ! — men.
The Pioneer was a most miserable little steamer, that
shed sparks all over us as she struggled up stream against
the strong current of the Lena. This was our home for
nearly two weeks, during which we often ran unsuccess-
ful races against boats that were being towed along the
shore by a couple of bareheaded boys. There was only
one convenience in such a craft, and that was there was a
place on the cabin tables where you could write at almost
any time, for they were seldom encumbered with meals.
A little foraging at villages where we stopped for wood
added a good deal to our personal comfort, but, much to
our surprise, induced the Captain to raise our board.
At Witem we left the Pioneer and went aboard of the
Constantine, a larger and more comfortable craft, where
we boarded a la carte and fared much better. There were
many other passengers than our party upon this boat, and
it was a motley group, comprising Russians, Yakoutsks,
EXD OF THE JOUR SET.
339
Tunguses, Tartars, Mongols and gypsies. Among them
were two women who wore a sort of Bloomer costume,
which is quite common in travelling in Siberia. The habit
consists of a loose shirt, with a belt around the waist and
loose trousers tucked into high topped boots. A derby
or soft felt hat completes the costume, which is striking
and prepossessing.
GOLD MIXES OF WITEM.
The scenery along the Lena River is, in many places,
most charming and picturesque. Turreted clilfs rise di-
rectly from the water's edge, or decorate the wooded
slopes, like great feudal castles. Eolling farm lands,
tilled with great toil and but little skill, stretch away into
the forests, and at intervals of twenty or thirty versts
pretty little villages dot the river's banks. In every vil-
lage are one or more churches of the Greek faith, with the
340 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
Oriental domes, gaudily painted or gilded, and giving dig-
nity to what otherwise might be an uninteresting collec-
tion of square houses. But I have noticed that a taste for
decoration is a distinguishing mark of Siberian architecture.
In the cities, the sills and lintels of the windows are orna-
mented, and even the tin waterspouts that lead the rain
from the roofs into the street terminate in dragons'
mouths or some other artistic design. Little balconies
and corners relieve the monotony of the plain wooden
walls, and this, too, with no other material, perhaps,
than the cumbrous logs of which most of the dwellings
are built. Often you will see the solid window shutters
painted in flagrant, gaudy colors, but almost everywhere
the attempt is made to beautify one's dwelling. Some of
the log church edifices I have seen on the Upper Lena
would decorate the finest park in Europe or America.
After five days upon the Constantine we reached a sta-
tion beyond which the boat could not pass. I needed
nothing more to convince me of this when I saw herds of
cattle fording the river a short distance above us. At this
station we took the small boats of the post stations, and
for five days and nights were towed near the river bank
by horses, which sometimes trotted along the shore, and
at others waded in the stream ; while occasionally the line
was cast adrift entirely until the horses passed around a
deep inlet and reappeared ahead of us on a little island,
we, in the meantime, maintaining our position against the
current or moving ahead propelled by poles in the hands
of our yemsheeks.
Four days more in carriages took us to Irkutsk, the only
real city I had yet seen in Siberia. We took up our quar-
ters at the Hotel Deko, a commodious and well kept inn,
where every effort was made to accommodate and please
EXD OF THE JOURNEY.
341
the taste of the American guests. Another hotel, the
Siberian, frequently enticed us to dine, where the cooking
was more like civilization than one would expect to find
in this country. Cosey little dining rooms, with a really
excellent cuisine and fair wines, left with you a feeling that
you had passed within the lines of civilization at last.
There was one dish that we found most palatable as
well as novel — that was cold soup, a dish truly Siberian.
It is made of little chunks of cold meat and sliced hard
boiled eggs, mixed with
onion tops and sour
cream, into which is
poured for each individ-
ual portion a bottle of
"quass" that gives it
a most refreshing, pun-
gent taste. Chunks of
transparent ice floating
in it have a cooling effect.
But what is "quass?"
queries the uninformed
New Yorker. Quass is a
harmless beverage made
from black bread and
yeast, and is so lively when bottled that it must be tightly
corked and tied down to keep it. I dare not give the
receipt for making this delightful drink, as it is the key
of cold soup, or " okroshka" as it is called here, and I
know an American who intends to make a fortune in New
York with a summer lunch room down town, where noth-
ing will be served except these two articles, with bread, of
course, but a strictly temperance house. It will only need
an introduction there to secure the patronage of every
GENERAL ANOUTCHINE.
342 ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
hungry and thirsty business man, for these are articles
that recommend themselves when once tried. Then, to be
served by girls in the cool, pretty dress of Little Rus-
sia, will have such a soothing influence upon all customers
that they will gladly add to the prospective fortune of
the enterprising individual who brings this blessing to
New York.
The day after our arrival General Anoutchine, the
Governor General of Oriental Siberia, returned to town
from a protracted tour through his principality to Japan
and by the Suez Canal to Europe, from which he re-
turned by the regular post road. He was accompanied
by his wife and daughter, who had not only withstood
the fatigues of so great a journey, but enjoyed the trip
intensely. The entire American party called to pay their
respects to the Governor General, by whom they were
subsequently presented to his family and afterward en-
tertained at dinner. The whole family, as might be
expected, speak French fluently, and Mile. Anoutchine
has added the English language to her other accomplish-
ments. General Anoutchine is quite a young man,
though already gray, but a man of considerable force of
character. He is polished in his manners and agreeable
to all, so that he is exceedingly popular wherever
known. We visited the public garden the second evening
we were in Irkutsk, and listened to an excellent concert
by a small orchestra of stringed and brass instruments.
It was an unexpected and brilliant sight to see once more
elegantly dressed ladies and gentlemen strolling through
avenues of trees illumined with numerous gaudy Chinese
lanterns and listening to familiar selections from Wagner
and Strauss. In the garden is a summer club house, to
which we were introduced by a member and allowed the
END OF THE JOURNEY.
343
freedom of the club upon the payment of a nightly due of
fifty kopecks each. The club has here a good restaurant
and the best wines and liquors that can be procured in
town, and here the evenings are passed in playing cards
for a small gage. The assemblage is all the more brilliant
from the fact that all officers in Russia and its possessions
are required to wear their uniform at all times, and, as
nearly every citizen, unless a merchant, is an officer,
LAKE BAIKAL.
gaudy uniforms are numerous. But all seemed pleased
to greet and be friendly with the American visitors, and
they, on their part, will long remember with pleasure
their short sojourn in Irkutsk.
Fully convinced that no one who visits Irkutsk should
leave without seeing Lake Baikal, I made a trip there and
spent two days enjoying its grand and picturesque scenery.
At Irkutsk my journey virtually ended, and it only
344
ICE PACK AND TUNDRA.
remained for me to get home by the most feasible route.
This was found to be over the post roads to Tomsk, a dis-
tance of about a thousand miles. At Tomsk, a city of
40,000 inhabitants, I made the acquaintance of the Mayor,
Mr. Zoubolski, who in his youth had been a famous
hunter and trapper, and later had accumulated enough to
purchase an interest in a gold mine, thus becoming one of
the richest men in Siberia. From Tomsk, in company with
my old friend, Captain John O. Spicer, of Groton, Conn.,
I journeyed upon a small steamer to Toumein. From this
point there were
two more days of
travel over the post
roads to Ekaterin-
burg, where a short
railroad crosses the
Ural Mountains,
and brings the
traveller to Perm.
Another steamer
brought us in four
days to Mshne
Novgorod, the old
Russian city which
has for years been
a resort for merchants from all points in Europe and
Siberia, assembling for the great fair which is held upon
the lowlands on the southern shore of the Volga. Nishne
Novgorod is the terminus of the grand railroad system
of Europe. Henceforward I entered upon beaten tracks
of travel. I had returned to civilization. My mission
as a courier was done.
MAYOK OF TOMSK.
GENERAL MAP OF NORTHERN SIBERIA AND EUROPE, SHOWING THE AUTHOR'S ROUTE ACROSS TUE CONTINENT.
G
700
1879
G56
Gilder, William Henry
Ice-pack and tundra
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