Mechanical Keyboards - Having a tough time deciding

There may be a million threads on this topic already, but my search techniques were failing me. Anyhow, been shopping for a new keyboard, as I've been on my old Saitek Eclipse for many years now and the keys are starting to stick a bit occasionally, and I've been wanting an excuse to upgrade anyway.

Anyhow, I have failed to find a single store in the area that carries ANY mechanical keyboard. I'm in a very low population state, so not too surprising, but so frustrating because I really wish I could feel what the differences are before committing over a hundred bucks to this thing. Especially since I'll be likely using it for the next decade.

I LOVE the feel and sound of the old IBM keyboards, so pretty stoked about getting back to that sort of typing experience. I will be using this keyboard for work primarily, for which I have to type a ton (so leaning toward the blue switches), but also play a lot of FPS and sometimes RTS and MMOs, for which I hear that brown and red might be better. So confused!

What are YOUR experiences with these sorts of keyboards? Am I over-thinking it, or do these switches really make that much of a difference depending on personal taste?

What you want (and I personally think you're nuts for it) is not a "mechanical" keyboard, but a "buckling spring" keyboard. That's what the model M was, and the others you are enamored with. A non-mechanical keyboard is something like a capacitive touch (e.g. touchscreen) or pure membrane (like a 'credit card' calculator) keyboard.

The ones you seem to want to avoid the popular modern types, which are mechanical 'scissor' switches.

Personally I find typing (and I'm a programmer, I type all day) on a well made dome/scissor keyboard to be more comfortable (and less obnoxious to neighbors) than any buckling spring keyboard, or faux-buckling-spring like those with the 'click tactile' cherry MX keys.

Be aware, not all cherry MX's are the click tactile type. Cherry also makes soft tactile and linear MX keys.

Current favorite: Lenovo SK-8815. Not a fan of all the 'media' buttons, but the keys feel great, and the layout is 'correct' without the euro-style "L" enter key, a full-size backspace, and a complete numeric keypad.

I use a Model M at work, had an old Alps White keyboard that I just recently replaced with a Das Keyboard (MX Browns). There's nothing quite like the typing experience of a Model M, but what stopped me from picking up a Unicomp for home is the fact that the M does cause some discomfort for me after a while of typing.

I decided on the MX Brown's because of their better appeal for gaming (they can actuate again without having to be totally brought back to rest height, making for easier double-tapping), and wanted something that would still be great for typing. If you'd just be using it for typing, you would like be very happy with any keyboard with MX Blues (they offer a more tactile feel, and a trademark clicky sound that's lacking in the Browns). You can read more about the particular switches here:http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mecha ... oard-guide

I have used Model M's and Cherry Blue keyboards for about 20 years. Both are acceptable to me. Currently using a Scorpius M10 with Cherry blues. I have a slight preference for the Cherry-based keyboards. YMMV. There is no way to test them aside from buying a few off eBay (or wherever) and trying them out to see what you like.

Anyhow, I have failed to find a single store in the area that carries ANY mechanical keyboard. I'm in a very low population state, so not too surprising, but so frustrating because I really wish I could feel what the differences are before committing over a hundred bucks to this thing. Especially since I'll be likely using it for the next decade.

While not quite as dire of a remote location problem, I had this problem in a big city. IF a store had a mechanical keyboard in stock, they're not very likely to pull a $100+ keyboard out to let people use as a demo... I was able to find one keyboard at one place with Cherry Red switches and another place with Cherry Blue, but I couldn't type on them back-to-back.

I think there's a lot of solid advice here, and feeling out the keycaps would be nice if possible, but you can get a feel for how they're going to work:

You're most likely to find Cherry keyswitches until you get up into some really high end stuff. Cherry switches aren't buckling spring, but they're not bad. If you're looking for an exact Model M replacement, these won't quite get you there. Having said that, they're miles ahead of rubber dome keyboards.

- Reds have no differential feedback, so you can't feel a difference between the top and bottoming out. Since there's no diffference in resistance, you can hold the key towards the bottom and tap it multiple times quickly. They're ideal for gamers or people who just like the light, linear response (people who are used to laptop-style scissor key keyboards.)

- Browns are the compromise switch, and IMHO a good one. There's no artificial click action added, but it requires a little bit more pressure as you get towards bottoming out. That allows you to feel bottom before you reach it. Like the reds, you can actuate the switch twice in a row very easily (gaming friendly.) The additional feedback makes typing a little easier than the reds for most people. They're a little noisier, but not full-on as loud as the blues or a buckling spring keyboard.

- Blues have an artificial "click" built into the mechanism. They feel pretty good for typing and are OK for gaming, but the clicking action is a potential distraction. It can be slightly harder to multi-tap a Blue or hold it near the actuation point because of the extra moving part in the mechanism. Having said that, Blues are not bad by any stretch and if I wanted a keyboard primarily for typing (rather than a compromise) I'd probably select a Cherry Blue based board. They have a definite audible "click."

A lot of models have multiple options. I'd probably suggest defaulting to the Browns, which is what I did and am happy with. Note that there are differences in quality. The Razer keyboards are among the cheapest built/flimsiest chassis/most likely to wear out. If you're getting a good price, they're not that bad, but I wouldn't pay *more* than a competitor. Others don't use mechanical keys everywhere (they cheap out in the Function keys for example, which is IMHO fine if you know what you're getting, but it validly bothers some people.) Older Corsair keyboards did this, but the K70 does not. The K70 is a very nice board.

There are plenty of other options out there, and most of them are pretty good. I went with a Corsair CM Storm QuickFire Pro. If I had it to do over, I might opt for the tenkeyless model instead, but I'm happy with it. The only keyswitch that I don't personally prefer is the Red, but I suspect that I could get used to it (based on what other Red users say. It doesn't have the "Model-M like feel" that the Blues and to a certain extent the Browns do.

Other models to look at besides the ones mentioned:

Monoprice (mentioned, but it's cheap enough to take a risk at $60.)Newegg has several Rosewill branded keyboards that are OK (mainly notable for price.) They also offer a Cherry Black keyswitch model, which is basically a stiffer Red (linar, just not light touch.)Corsair keyboards (you know about these, they feature key-pullers so you can replace the keycaps with gaming specific ones. & other gaming features)CM Storm (variable partial backlighting to highlight gaming keys + media and gaming features)WASD keyboards totally custom. Go nuts and select exactly what you want.Ducky Stupid name, stupid logo, but these are a higher end board.

And beyond that, a lot of the big names have recently gotten into the market-- I guess people are fed up with mushy boards. I can't comment on MSI, Gigabyte, Logitech, etc. and their offerings, but if it uses a Cherry Switch, it's pretty easy to assume the key feel is decent and then look at features and price.

I found that with MX Reds it is very easy to register keypresses that I didn't intend to. I'm used to keyboards with definite detents (IBM Selectric, Model M, Northgate (Alps), laptop scissor keys... even rubber dome) where it doesn't matter if I rest my fingers on the keys.

I like the features on the Corsair K90... I'm glad to hear they're coming out with an MX Brown version.

++ on the cherry MX browns. I prefer the clicking of the buckling spring keyboard, but the MX browns are a nice compromise between tactile response and not annoying your SO/coworkers/neighbors down the street. The browns aren't silent by any stretch of the imagination, but they don't seem to annoy those around me too much.

Corsair K90 here, and I believe there's a manufacturer sanctioned mod were one can put those little "spacers" (look like little donuts) underneath the keys. Takes some of the noise out of the keyboard.

Corsair K90 here, and I believe there's a manufacturer sanctioned mod were one can put those little "spacers" (look like little donuts) underneath the keys. Takes some of the noise out of the keyboard.

Corsair K60 here, and I use O-rings to dampen my keyboard at work.

(My O-rings are actually just those rubber bands for braces. Just as effective as the O-rings, but about $10 less and easily found in most pharmaceutical stores)

As for the Reds, they certainly take some time to get used to the lack of full tactile feedback. Some people "touch"** type, some people (like me) bottom out all the time. You'll eventually adapt to one method or the other and just stick with it.

**Edit: by "touch" typing I mean people who have become accustom to chiclet style keyboards that have little to almost no travel. If you ask these new age computer users, they'll call typing efficiently on a chiclet keyboard "touch typing" because you just have to "touch" the keys and move on. The complete lack of travel allows them to very quickly bottom out and feel as though they needn't press the keys down very hard.

I touch type, the real "touch" typing way, wherein I don't even need to look at my results as I'm typing this. But many of my co-workers who know practically nothing about keyboards and typing call their fancy wireless Apple keyboards "touch typing keyboards". Apologies for using the wrong terminology the first time around.

"Truly touch typing" does not mean "not bottoming out the keyboard". (Some of us old folks learned "touch typing" on mechanical typewriters, and I assure you, you DID have to bottom out the keys.)

It means typing without looking at the keys. i.e. knowing where the keys are by touch.

As you said, though, you can bottom out the keys or not - if the keyboard permits it. It's up to you. It isn't "wrong" by any standard I've ever heard of. It's probably impossible to not bottom out the keys on some designs, like almost all rubber dome and membrane keyboards and scissor keyboards. And on some "mechanical" keyboards too. It happens because the "switch" point is so close to bottom that it's all but impossible to stop before hitting bottom, especially if you are going with any speed.

While I'm on the subject of how we used to learn to type... Did you know that proper typing technique means, if you are typing from some other copy, you are not supposed to look at your results? You're only supposed to be looking at your source material. The reason is, you'll go faster if you are not constantly switching back and forth between your source and your copy (and having to re-find your place each time). How do you know if you make mistakes then? Why, you're not supposed to make mistakes, you silly person. Try this the next time you take one of those online typing tests - just look at the source material. If you don't make mistakes, you'll likely find it's at least somewhat faster. And if you're good at touch typing, you'll know when you make mistakes, again by feel.

I still maintain that the Selectric keyboards were the finest typing keyboards ever made. Followed closely by those on the IBM 026 and later keypunches (they used the same mechanics).

The Model M was a close imitation of the Selectric's touch. The "click" and detent is a little "sharper" on the Model M. Important difference though is that without the inter-key mechanics (the "interposers"), it couldn't imitate the "stroke storage" feature. This prevented you from hitting two keys exactly at once, but nevertheless allowed you to hit any number of keys in rapid succession, without having to raise the earlier ones. Even the ASR 33 Teletype keyboard had this mechanism, though it didn't work quite as well. A good typist could work with this feature and use it to their advantage. I got so a lot of common short words, like "this", were typed with one movement of both hands. You can do that on computer keyboards too, but without the stroke storage mechanics, I just don't get the same confidence that I got it right.

Alps keyswitches are, IMO, better than Model M in some ways, worse in others. I can type faster with less effort on Alps than on Model M's - I just can't get into as effective a rhythm with Model M's. And the Alps are considerably quieter. But a key (pun intended) problem with the Alps is that the "click" is not exactly when the keystroke is registered. It's almost the same point, but not quite. You can, if you're careful, push these things far enough to make a "click" but without registering the keystroke. Obviously, they are still not as good as the Selectric. No "stroke storage", of course.

If you like a smooth keyswitch with no detent at all (and you don't have to bottom them out if you don't want to), Cherry MX Reds will likely do it for you. They don't for me... I don't think. I'm going to give them another try. I suspect I'll probably settle on MX Browns.

But if someone re-created the Selectric keyboard but in a PC-compatible key layout and connector, I would be so there.

It's a lot like high end audio: I wish I could just relax and enjoy the cheap stuff! (Not that I can afford the *really* high-end stuff.)

WASD w/ Cherry blues here (with the o-rings). Really like mine, don't think it's too loud or distracting, but never have had the chance to see the browns in action. Might have to get one with browns one day to compare.

"Truly touch typing" does not mean "not bottoming out the keyboard". (Some of us old folks learned "touch typing" on mechanical typewriters, and I assure you, you DID have to bottom out the keys.)

It means typing without looking at the keys. i.e. knowing where the keys are by touch.

Apologies. I used the term "touch" typing without proper context. I touch type in the traditional sense that you explained, but many new users who have come from the new generation of chiclet keyboards are calling their method of typing "touch" typing, due to the complete lack of key travel. I've added an explanation to my previous post, hopefully to clarify what I meant by "touch" typing (the fake kind).

If you want something that is linear like the MX Reds, but don't like how little force is required to depress the key, you should look into the MX Blacks. They are completely linear and without any feedback, much like the MX Reds, but they require more force to actuate and thus feel a little bit more like rubber dome keyboards.

Cherry MX brown switches here, on an elitekeyboards otaku (a re-branded Leopold keyboard with blank keycaps). I like the Cherry brown switches, but not as much as buckling springs. Cherry switches are not at all bad, but they are also not my favorite. I will probably at some point in the next few years switch back to a USB buckling spring keyboard.

"Truly touch typing" does not mean "not bottoming out the keyboard". (Some of us old folks learned "touch typing" on mechanical typewriters, and I assure you, you DID have to bottom out the keys.)

It means typing without looking at the keys. i.e. knowing where the keys are by touch.

Apologies. I used the term "touch" typing without proper context. I touch type in the traditional sense that you explained, but many new users who have come from the new generation of chiclet keyboards are calling their method of typing "touch" typing, due to the complete lack of key travel. I've added an explanation to my previous post, hopefully to clarify what I meant by "touch" typing (the fake kind).

If you want something that is linear like the MX Reds, but don't like how little force is required to depress the key, you should look into the MX Blacks. They are completely linear and without any feedback, much like the MX Reds, but they require more force to actuate and thus feel a little bit more like rubber dome keyboards.

No, I don't want more force on a linear travel. I want a detent that feels as much like a Selectric's as possible.

My current board is a Ducky 9008G2 Pro with MX Clears. I like Blues OK for typing and Reds are great for gaming, but I find them to be a little lighter than I really like for typing. MX Clears are the same idea as Browns, but with a stiffer main spring (55g vs 45g) and a bigger tactile bump. The bump on tactile keys is where the leaf spring is providing resistance, so in fact the difference in resistance between Clears and Browns is quite a bit more than just the 10g of the main springs. The net effect is a key with quite a bit more resistance and feedback than blues or browns, but without the click of blues. For me it's just the right combination of feedback and resistance, and the stiffness makes it harder to bottom out, which makes them quieter to boot.

Thanks for all the great input, everyone! From what I can gather, it seems that the Cherry Brown switches will be the best fit for me. Still wish I could test drive 'em, but I'm sure it will rock either way.

I believe I will be buying the Corsair Vengeance K70 (http://www.corsair.com/k70) the second the version with the brown switches is released, which will supposedly be in the next few weeks. Hopefully Corsair won't have any delays.

Apologies. I used the term "touch" typing without proper context. I touch type in the traditional sense that you explained, but many new users who have come from the new generation of chiclet keyboards are calling their method of typing "touch" typing, due to the complete lack of key travel.

Thanks for all the great input, everyone! From what I can gather, it seems that the Cherry Brown switches will be the best fit for me. Still wish I could test drive 'em, but I'm sure it will rock either way.

I believe I will be buying the Corsair Vengeance K70 (http://www.corsair.com/k70) the second the version with the brown switches is released, which will supposedly be in the next few weeks. Hopefully Corsair won't have any delays.

Do you actually want the backlight? Your original post doesn't say, but the two keyboards you mention are both backlit. If you're going to keep the keyboard for a long time, almost all backlit keyboards use keycaps that will wear out - the keycaps are made of transparent plastic that is coated in an opaque layer everywhere but the legend (so the light can shine through the legend), and the opaque part will wear off. The major exceptions, neither of which are common, are keyboards that use a translucent base plastic and print the legend on normally (the Keycool ones are the only ones that come this way from the manufacturer that I can think of), and Deck keyboards (the main part of the keycap is transparent like usual, but the opaque layer is dye sublimated instead of coated, so it won't easily wear off).

If you don't need a backlight, and are already looking at spending ~$130 on a K70, I'd also consider one of the new Ducky keyboards with the thick PBT keycaps (PBT is a type of plastic, and wears much slower than the typical ABS). There are threecoloroptions and they are very nice - I just got one a few days ago.

If you want backlights but want a somewhat less expensive (though not much) option, I'd look at Coolermaster's CM Storm line as Nevarre mentions above. They're probably the least expensive brand that has a solid reputation right now.

Filco, Leopold, and WASD are all pretty much the same level (and cost) as Ducky, so all are very good choices as well.

Das recently switched OEMs for some of their models, and the new OEM isn't as good as the old OEM.

Keycool is sort of a chinese-made Filco, cheaper but still pretty solid.

Deck are very solid as well, and have the unique super durable backlit keycaps I mentioned earlier, but they're pretty expensive.

Topre is an expensive oddball that uses a proprietary switch that is nothing like Cherry MX. They're a capacitive switch (like the old IBM Model F, the predecessor of the M) under a rubber dome, and are reputed to be the best feeling rubber dome switches in the world by a pretty significant margin, but their cost is almost double the one you're looking at.

I can't comment on MSI, Gigabyte, Logitech, etc. and their offerings, but if it uses a Cherry Switch, it's pretty easy to assume the key feel is decent and then look at features and price.

I'd stay away from most of these ones. All but the Logitech are made by the same OEM as the Razer keyboards, iOne, and have the same subpar for the cost build quality. The Logitech is fine in terms of build (Logitech themselves make it), but Logitech is the reason MX Brown boards are less easy to find right now - they bought up something like 6 months of Cherry's entire Brown production sometime last year.

I don't own, but I have used a Roswill keyboard with MX Cherry Blues. My 2 cents is that it's worth a crap ton more than my 2-cent opinion. It was very solidly built, and a pleasure to type on. Despite the Corsairs coming with an aluminum upper body, the Roswill still felt more solid with a plastic body than my Corsair (K60).

I don't know which model it was, but it came with a detachable USB and PS/2 cable, so that you could use it on any computer.

.Do you actually want the backlight? Your original post doesn't say, but the two keyboards you mention are both backlit. If you're going to keep the keyboard for a long time, almost all backlit keyboards use keycaps that will wear out - the keycaps are made of transparent plastic that is coated in an opaque layer everywhere but the legend (so the light can shine through the legend), and the opaque part will wear off. The major exceptions, neither of which are common, are keyboards that use a translucent base plastic and print the legend on normally (the Keycool ones are the only ones that come this way from the manufacturer that I can think of), and Deck keyboards (the main part of the keycap is transparent like usual, but the opaque layer is dye sublimated instead of coated, so it won't easily wear off).

Well removable keycaps take some of the sting out of that. Had a G15 Logitech with a known keycap problem. Not covered.

I'd stay away from most of these ones. All but the Logitech are made by the same OEM as the Razer keyboards, iOne, and have the same subpar for the cost build quality. The Logitech is fine in terms of build (Logitech themselves make it), but Logitech is the reason MX Brown boards are less easy to find right now - they bought up something like 6 months of Cherry's entire Brown production sometime last year.

Logitech has a nasty habit of modifying the layout in.. "interesting" ways.. that you may not notice, especially if you order the keyboard online without seeing it in person first. I have one of their older backlit keyboards collecting dust because they thought it would be smart to:

1. Rearrange the insert/delete/prtscr area for no reason. The delete key is 2-keys 'tall', insert moved up where prtscr is supposed to be, etc.

2. Remove the right-hand windows/meta and right-click/menu keys, make the control key double-wide, and put a proprietary 'Fn' key between ctrl and alt.

I didn't notice any of that before buying it because it didn't occur to me that anyone would mess with the standard layout so much for no good reason.

Do you actually want the backlight? Your original post doesn't say, but the two keyboards you mention are both backlit. If you're going to keep the keyboard for a long time, almost all backlit keyboards use keycaps that will wear out - the keycaps are made of transparent plastic that is coated in an opaque layer everywhere but the legend (so the light can shine through the legend), and the opaque part will wear off. The major exceptions, neither of which are common, are keyboards that use a translucent base plastic and print the legend on normally (the Keycool ones are the only ones that come this way from the manufacturer that I can think of), and Deck keyboards (the main part of the keycap is transparent like usual, but the opaque layer is dye sublimated instead of coated, so it won't easily wear off)...

...Logitech is fine in terms of build (Logitech themselves make it), but Logitech is the reason MX Brown boards are less easy to find right now - they bought up something like 6 months of Cherry's entire Brown production sometime last year.

I actually do want backlit. Not necessary, but kind of nice to have for late-night gaming sessions. Otherwise, I'm a big fan of the Das Keyboards with no printed keys. Love it. Nice and clean. My current Saitek is backlit and yes, some of the keys have rubbed off a bit after many, many years of heavy use, but it doesn't bother me at all. Honestly, only the shift key and the space bar look bad.

Interesting about Logitech snatching up all the Cherry Browns. Makes a lot of sense actually, and could be the reason for the lack of Browns in other product lines.

Logitech has a nasty habit of modifying the layout in.. "interesting" ways.. that you may not notice, especially if you order the keyboard online without seeing it in person first.

Oh man, that would drive me freaking nuts. Thanks for the heads up.

Overall, I'm still leaning toward the upcoming Corsair K70. It's one of the few mechanical keyboards out there that come with a built in palm-rest (and a great one at that), which is one of the things I like about my current board. Another thing I LOVE about it is how the keys aren't "framed in" by the body of the keyboard, which will make it WAY easier to keep clean. SEE SIDE VIEW BELOW:

^^Sweeeeeeet.

Overall, it seems to have the most appealing design to me. I had better make sure they haven't screwed around with the layout like Logitech, though!

Despite the Corsairs coming with an aluminum upper body, the Roswill still felt more solid with a plastic body than my Corsair (K60).

This is almost definitely because the Rosewill (like most mechanicals) has a steel plate inside the plastic case that the keyswitches are inserted into before they are soldered to the PCB below. In contrast, the Corsair has an exposed aluminum (lighter, somewhat less rigid at this thickness) plate with no plastic top cover.

Well removable keycaps take some of the sting out of that. Had a G15 Logitech with a known keycap problem. Not covered.

Sorta true. Cherry MX has the benefit of being by far the most common keyswitch used for mechanicals, so it's easy to find replacement keycaps. That said, a decent set of replacement keycaps typically runs in the $50-100 range, unless you harvest them from a used board or get lucky. Also, backlit keycap sets are significantly less common, and this is compounded by the fact that Cherry MX switches can be mounted with the LED at the top or the bottom (technically also on either side as well, but no-one does that), and the keycaps are generally designed to match the LED position.

My current Saitek is backlit and yes, some of the keys have rubbed off a bit after many, many years of heavy use, but it doesn't bother me at all. Honestly, only the shift key and the space bar look bad.

I have a first gen Saitek Eclipse that hasn't been used too hard (I use a Logitech G13, and a Belkin Nostromo before that, for gaming), and the A key isn't an A key any more, it's a blotchy-blue-blob key now. I expect most of the backlit mechanical keyboards that aren't Razer should have better coatings than the Saitek, but they'll eventually wear through anyway.

Overall, I'm still leaning toward the upcoming Corsair K70. It's one of the few mechanical keyboards out there that come with a built in palm-rest (and a great one at that), which is one of the things I like about my current board. Another thing I LOVE about it is how the keys aren't "framed in" by the body of the keyboard, which will make it WAY easier to keep clean.

Built-in palm rests aren't too common, so that narrows your choices down a lot. The Corsair's "exposed plate with no top casing" style is quite rare for production keyboards, so unless you're planning on a custom - and I do mean custom, not some standard keyboard with custom keycaps like WASD - you've narrowed it down to the Corsairs being the only choice.

No problem. Screwing up the layout like that is about the worst thing they can do. Almost as bad as getting a keyboard with a UK style big enter button..

One thing I learned is you have to look carefully at the layout, if it matters to you. They may go screwy like logitech, or maybe you'll get a UK style with the 'big' enter key, or the other-way-round big enter key. You might end up with a 3/4 size (laptop size) backspace key, or even a backspace key the same size as the letter keys, in order to fit the backslash or some other key up there.

Or you may want any or all of those things and end up without them.

This is the logitech I was complaining about. I still have it, but it's just an emergency backup now.

The cleaning part is VERY important for one who eats and drinks at the keyboard. Not to mention I'm near a window and have a dust issue. Also the Corsairs are very bright even on the lowest. Highest it could double as a search light.

I'll definitely pitch in to state that the Corsair is a joy to clean. That's why I bought mine as well. I unplug it, hold it out the window and angle it downwards, blast away with the compressed air can, and plug it back in. That's it, I'm done cleaning for another 3-4 months. I've also "borrowed" an "oh shit." and "oops" buttons to replace my Esc and Backspace keys, just for added colour and humour.

I don't think I'd want my mechanical keyboard to be light... They should be like a tank, like the old Model M's! Doubles as a weapon in a pinch.

The Corsairs have blood-letting sharp edges. No joke, I've drawn blood from my own knuckles by accidentally smacking the backs of my hands on the corners of this keyboard. Wielded properly, this thing is in fact a weapon.

Does the K70 come with replacement keys for those weirdly shaped "gamer" keys I'm spotting in the above picture?

I find the board appealing, but those keys are a major turn-off.

Yes. From what I've seen, the K70 comes with normal keys installed, but includes the gaming keys and the tool for which to replace them with if you so choose. I will most likely stick with the normal keys. Still keeping my eyes peeled for the new K70! A couple of the other models are available for pre-order on Newegg, but I'm pretty set on the K70.

I honestly haven't been too impressed with this Steelcase I've had for nearly a year. Keys aren't bad, but not as nice as some others I've tried in the meantime, and it occasionally flakes out with a stuck key. Expected more for the price.

Any real difference between Ducky and Deck? Ducky also seems to have a huge number of models all similar in price, and I can't see any difference between them other than the fact that virtually none of them are in stock.

I still have the buckling spring keyboard that came with my first purchased computer (a Zeos 486-66) back in 1994, and reluctantly put in the closet a few years ago when the heavy old-style canon plug with PS2 adaptor became too heavy for the weak PS2 plug on my then motherboard and broke it. Current motherboard doesn't even have PS2 plugs. Unicomp buckling springs are considerably cheaper than any of the top-line Cherry boards, oddly enough. I'd have thought they'd be higher.

After using a LOT of different keyboards I have at the moment a Cherry MX brown keyboard. It has many of the advantages of Red, but at least with a minimal amount of clickyness. I would have liked to try Cherry MX Clear, but I have not found any with them.Still, If I buy a new one I would buy Cherry MX Blue. It has a slight disadvantage as a gaming keyboard, but of all Cherry switches, it is the most comfortable one for writing on.

As for Corsair, Note the the new series K75 and K95 has all cherry switches as opposed to K70 and K90 which only uses Cherry switches on the regular keyboard layout, none of the F-keys or special keys has Cherry switches, only Rubber dome switches. The appearance of K75 and K95 probably is in quick response to people criticism of this.

As for Cherry MX Red. It is possible this is the best choice for gaming, but I do not like to type on them at all. Even my current Brown switches is a little to subtle in the click-sensation.

Yes-ish. Ducky backlit keyboards use laser etched coated ABS keycaps, while Deck backlit keyboards use dye sublimated PBT keycaps. The Ducky ones will have the coating wear off eventually, leaving you with translucent blobs instead of translucent legends. The Deck ones won't wear out unless you're not human. The Deck also has a larger casing with significant bezel width, where the Ducky has a casing that's not much larger than the key area.

Ducky also seems to have a huge number of models all similar in price, and I can't see any difference between them other than the fact that virtually none of them are in stock.

Ducky basically lest you pick from a multi-dimensional matrix of options. You can choose backlit (in about 6 different colors) vs non-backlit, ABS vs PBT keycaps (only for non-backlit), different keycap colors (white or black for ABS, white&grey, grey, and blue&grey for PBT), Red, Blue, Black, and Brown keyswitches for most combinations of the previous options plus some less common keyswitches like Green and Clear for a few combinations, and that's just for the full-size (104 key) normal edition keyboards. Tenkeyless is available in a subset of the above options, and Ducky also does some special editions (pink keycap and white casing version for Valentine's, yearly Year Of The XXX, and even weirder stuff like a recent one with 8 different keyswitch types and as many different LED color to match). This results in hundreds of variants, but they're all based on the same basic keyboard chassis (technically one for full-size and one for tenkeyless). Ducky tends to make each specific model in batches, and some variants may see only one or two production batches ever, which results in the tons of out-of-stock models you're seeing.

I've decided after some testing that MX Browns aren't clicky enough for me.

After some dithering I dug out my perfect-condition Avant Stellar (Alps white keyswitches) and plugged it into my machine's PS/2 port - for some reason it won't work on a USB to PS/2 adapter. It's purely awesome. I can type much more easily on this thing than on MX Reds or Browns. Still not as good as a Selectric, of course, but close. I guess I'll be trying an MX Blue if I need something else.