Just finishing up my scout of the Bamboo Road bike tour in China, I’m getting a couple stationary days in Beijing, and time to reflect on what I expected of China, versus what I’ve actually seen.

Riding from Shanghai to Hong Kong, then to Vietnam is not a walk back in time. There are no untouched villages, unchanged by the crazy momentum of the Chinese economy, or places where time stands still. There are beautiful country-sides, farmlands and mountains though, and we take as many small country roads through China as possible. That’s the challenge when scouting a new route, while not wanting to add too much complexity to the directions, as it’s a little hard to enjoy the scenery if you’re constantly worried about getting lost! What has surprised me is how often I felt at peace in China, and well away from the constant buzz of the crazy cities.

I would never have expected to see so much nature, and I feel ashamed of the judgements I’ve passed on China in the past. I expected every kilometer to be confronted with environmental destruction, and polluted areas where you wouldn’t trust food pulled from the soil, but it hasn’t been like that at all. After a few days of driving through forests, and farmland, I realized that I hadn’t seen a single clear-cut anywhere. Sure, the edges of the cities are levelled at an astounding rate for new 40 story apartments, but leave the cities, and you’ll enjoy a great mix of plant life, twisty roads, and ancient agricultural infrastructure. Sure, farmhouses are all mini apartment blocks, but when you use so few machines for your farming, you’ll need lots of people living near by (I just wish they weren’t literally blocks).

It might sound silly, but when I drive a new route for bicycles, like this one in China, I try to picture if I would send my mom on it. To my astonishment, in China I would. I’d tell her to ride slowly in the cities, and to expect people to do the unexpected with their cars, scooters, and livestock, but she’d love it! Sure, it’s busier than Indonesia, but has similarly striking scenery, and fewer hills, which she’d like…

So, I guess I haven’t quite fully wrapped my head around China yet. I’m not really sure how long it would take to. It’s definitely not all good, but I’ve loved the food, the amazing scenery, and the people. Sure, I could say China is destroying the environment at an amazing pace, but we have to remember that it’s also making all the products that the rest of the world “need”, like our bike parts! Missing out on seeing what that actually looks like would be a shame, sad to say, but it’ll only happen once. So, come see China while you can still afford to enjoy yourself here, but kick your coffee habit first, the Cappuccino I’m sipping on while typing, is costing me an astronomical $8!

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2015/06/scouting-the-bamboo-road/feed/0The Placehttp://tourdafrique.com/2015/04/the-place/
http://tourdafrique.com/2015/04/the-place/#commentsThu, 30 Apr 2015 14:51:42 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=21322 I would imagine we have all had a similar experience. You do not recall precisely when you first heard or]]>

I would imagine we have all had a similar experience. You do not recall precisely when you first heard or read about a faraway place. At that point was just a name. Might have been in your childhood, later in your high school geography lessons or even later in life. Timbuktu, Bali, the Amazon, the Sahara, Machu-Picchu. As the years passed by, the location grows in your consciousness, begins to develop its own mystery, attraction and eventually becomes ‘The Place’. Then one day, whether by design or by some coincidence, you end up travelling to “The Place” and you finally get to see it. To experience it. When you have that first encounter it triggers all sorts of reactions, from immense pleasure and amazement to a variety of other emotions.

Our company’s Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition stretches from Shanghai to Singapore and when it crosses from Vietnam into Laos we come across the Mekong River – my very own “The Place”. It is one of the mightiest and, for me, enigmatic areas of the world. The Mekong is the world ‘s 12th longest river, being a mere 4,184Km long, and over the last millennia it has fed and supported many a ruler and their warriors. In fact, it was the blood line of Khmer Empire – with its famous capital, Ankgor. According to Wikipedia, this “bear(s) testimony to the Khmer empire’s immense power and wealth, impressive art and culture, architectural technique and aesthetics achievements, as well as the variety of belief systems that it patronised over time. Recently satellite imaging has revealed Angkor to be the largest pre-industrial urban center in the world”.

The Mekong River originates in the vast Tibetan Plateau and if you sail a tiny sailboat from its source, it will flow into Yunnan province in China. After clearing customs at the border, it will drift through fast-changing Myanmar and on into Laos, to the very spot I was standing when I first reached the shore of the river. After some prolonged concentration, a hypnotic state overtook me. Suddenly I was beginning to perceive a tiny sailboat with people (actually goblins, gnomes and brownies) who were eager to tell me what they have already seen while sailing from the Mekong’s source. After all, almost 300 million people and 95 different ethnic groups depend on the gifts that the Mekong River brings. Chief amongst them, believe it or not, 1,200 species of fish – the 3rd highest in the world after Amazon and Congo Rivers.

The river was fast, the tiny sailboat was moving quickly and we could only exchange a few words. In any case, their dialect was difficult to understand. I managed to comprehend that the scenery they saw was great and the people were fascinating. When I told them I was cycling along the river – first to Cambodia and then into Thailand – they said that I was sure to have a great adventure. We promised each other to make contact again when they sailed into Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.

What can I say about my journey to Phnom Penh except that they were right! Cycling through Laos and Cambodia was pure pleasure. When I did reconnect with the tiny people in Phnom Penh, they told me that being in the sailboat they were now to follow the river to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) whereas I was leaving the mighty Mekong River and heading for Bangkok. They said I should not despair as they had heard that visiting Ankgor Wat is a must – but they could not leave the sailboat. When I told them I planned to continue riding south through Malaysia and then on to Singapore, they said that the next time they will definitely take bikes and do the same route.

And so, with great sadness, we said goodbye. They pulled anchor and I got on my bike, but I promised them that I would post a few pictures of what I saw. So here they are ,my fellow travellers.

“Probably the best way to discover Asia and its exotic cultures. The Bamboo Road was an eye opener, especially on China, a country so complex that it leaves you scared and envious at the same time. Nature and beauty came in the name of Laos and Cambodia while Thailand would be remembered for the monsoon rains that hit us day after day. Bamboo Road stood to the expectation with its load of fun, exoticism and sweat.”

– Gerald Coniel, France

“The Bamboo Road Tour was not easy, nor was it meant to be. But, if you want to experience this part of the world, Tour D’Afrique makes it as easy as it’s ever going to be. Try it and see.”

– Dan Kirby, USA

“I rode from Shanghi to Hong Kong, loved going through the villages and meeting the locals. Very friendly people.”

– Maureen Wotherspoon, Canada

“A great way to experience seven countries largely away from major sites, the smells, the dust of towns and villages, markets, traffic. Stop where and when you want, have cokes or coffees in tiny roadside places, meet local people who seldom see foreigners. And the route and food and lodging all looked after for you.”

– Rae Simpson, Canada

“This tour takes us through a real cross section of landscapes and habitats in southeastern China and SouthEast Asian countries. Accommodation and food are as comfortable as can be imagined for a bicycle tour, and the rest days are well-placed to give an opportunity to see the tourist highlights. The Bamboo road trip was certainly worth the effort that TDA put into organizing and conducting the inaugural version. I hope they make it available agin so others can experience it.”

– Fred Promoli, Canada

“The countries of Asia, were unfamiliar to me, and not on my list of places to visit, however, I was intriqued with the idea of the Bambbo Road, For me, it was the adventure of a lifetime, The sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and people were a never ending enlightenment. I enjoyed the wide varity of roads, and paths we cycled . I have recommended this tour to several people.”

– Gloria Jean MacKenzie, Canada

“I had lots of fun talking with all the fellow riders from different countries. I enjoyed the scenery, the asian food and sleeping in a hotel (a lot better than camping).”

– Michael Netzsch, Germany

“It was a wonderful experience of contrast between the bustling huge modern cities and the rural areas with their old mostly manual ways. All mixed with the pleasing sounds of lush forests and marshes beside the roads. And to top it to be able to experience the ancient artifacts and structures was truly amazing.”

– Ursula Simpson, Canada

“Highly recommended, especially the Laos and Cambodia legs.”

– Robin Hunt-Davis, South Africa

:Get on your bike and do it! SE Asia is a land of contrasts from Shanghai to rural Laos, from the Meekong to Angor Wat ………. thanks TDA.”

– Jim Pearce, New Zealand

Check it out for yourself. Registration for the 2015 Bamboo Road is now open!

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2015/03/bamboo-road-cyclists-speak-out/feed/2The Magic of South East Asia on a bike – a visual journey.http://tourdafrique.com/2015/03/the-magic-of-south-east-asia-on-a-bike-a-visual-journey/
http://tourdafrique.com/2015/03/the-magic-of-south-east-asia-on-a-bike-a-visual-journey/#commentsFri, 06 Mar 2015 16:00:39 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=20433 One night last week I happened to watch a TED video of Nobel laureate and the founder of behavioral economics,]]>

One night last week I happened to watch a TED video of Nobel laureate and the founder of behavioral economics, Professor Daniel Kahneman, presenting on the subject of how our ‘experiencing selves’ and ‘remembering selves’ perceive happiness differently. By pure coincidence, I think, earlier the same day I started sorting out pictures of my 2013 Bamboo Road cycling adventure. Coincidence or not, it certainly allowed me to understand Prof. Kahneman’s demonstration. Going through the pictures, I was ‘remembering happiness’ which, of course, is far different than the actual minute to minute experience of cycling across South-East Asia. I wrote several blogs during the trip but that was in the past – whereas now is all about remembering oneself on the trip.

I flew to Hanoi in October of 2013 where I joined 30 or so cyclists who had cycled to the city from Shanghai via Hong Kong on the inaugural Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition. A year and half later while sorting out the photos I am recalling the memories of the places, the smell, the taste.

I grew up in the ’60s when the Vietnam War was on the news just about every night. Walking the streets of Hanoi had a certain surreal quality, more so when, on a short walk , I saw a Ferrari bicycle – in fact, my first Ferrari bicycle ever.

Hanoi today is a large, busy city but my favourite spot was this old temple in the middle of the lake. I sat on a bench across from the spot this photo was taken and watched the world go by recalling the past and the futility of the war.

As I walked the side streets, I loved looking at the narrow old buildings – not to mention the street life. And, of course, cycling in the countryside was a visual treat.

I wrote a blog a few days after we left Laos called ‘12 things I will about miss about cycling Laos‘ but when I think of that country now, I think of the laid-back and easy going Laotian personality and the great, quiet roads. This attitude, of course, had a great impact on all of us.

Cambodia had a rather unsettling impact on me, especially when I visited the ‘Killing Fields’ on the outskirts of Phnom Penh.

On the other hand I had a number of enjoyable experiences when I cycled in and around Angkor-Wat by myself. What a magnificent place!

Thailand, ah Thailand! Cycling through this country away from all the crowds will get you a cornucopia of visuals – a collection that I doubt you would come across if you travel by any other means. Here are some of them. Wonderful street lights; elephants everywhere (this of course is very personal if you recall my history with one particular elephant); Buddhas, Buddhas and more Buddhas; underwater wedding ceremonies; a cyclist using a gas pump for stretching; bamboo rest stops, and a lot more. I have almost forgotten the one not to be missed – the altar of penises.

Malaysia was full of visual surprises but what sticks most in my mind is the surprising mix of cultures along the route we cycled.

And then on the final day the modernity of Singapore; splendid, vibrant and, at times, mesmerizing.

In his TED presentation Prof Kahneman explains in detail how the experiencing self and remembering self often vary greatly but all I can say about the Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition is that both the experience of cycling it and the remembrance of it provide me with great joy, if not happiness.

The Mao & Tao section of the 2015 Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition is a short 10 day section that will take riders from high-tech Hong Kong, through a portion of southern China, and then across the border into Vietnam. Once in Vietnam riders will go ride the little-visited northern mountains veering south as they move onward to Hanoi.

Beginning in fast-paced, technologically advanced, decadent, and over-the-top Hong Kong riders will get a firsthand look at the hustle behind one of the biggest economies in Asia. For those who arrive early there is plenty to see and do in Hong Kong before setting off into the countryside of Southern China. Catering to all kinds of tastes Hong Kong has much to take in. Check out the view from the harbour, buy some souvenirs and taste an array of foods at the night market before suiting up and taking off towards calmer surroundings.

Take in the sights and smells of the harvest as you meander across the quieter roads of the most populated country on Earth. Watch the edges of the road as you ride, as stretching along the roadways local farmers area busy harvesting and drying rice to sell at the local markets. Many paths and roadways will be covered with a layer of grains drying in the autumn sun.

After a few quiet days its time to say goodbye to China, and hello to Vietnam!

The border crossing between China and Vietnam will come shortly after a jaunt through the Friendship Pass. Traditionally the designation for the border of China and Vietnam (though the official border has moved a little bit over the years), Friendship Pass got its current name in 1965 to reflect the close political ties between China and North Vietnam during the then on-going Vietnam War.

The ride within this northern part of Vietnam will take the group through stunning mountains, jungle vistas and plenty of political history. Continuing on to Hanoi riders can sample some truly authentic Pho, a little Vietnamese coffee (or beer!) and delve deeper into the over 1000 years of history offered in the capitol city.

2010 marked one thousand years since the establishment of the city of Hanoi and the history is apparent around every corner; From the French colonial to the traditional. Take particular note of the tall, thin buildings. Historically homeowners were taxed according the width of the front of their house. This rule led to some pretty unique architectural examples throughout Hanoi. Wander through the streets and alleys and learn about what makes this city so unique.

With two rest days in Hanoi before the next section begins riders can take advantage of an opportunity for a day-trip (or overnight trip) to Ha Long Bay. Consisting of over 1,600 limestone monolithic islands, each topped with thick jungle vegetation the bay is otherworldly. Explore the bay on boat, visiting one of the floating fishing villages and exploring the caves (Thien Cung grotto and other caves provide a cool escape from the daily heat); Or just put up your feet, open a cold beer, and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Rolling from Hong Kong and its crazy busy atmosphere into the calm of the countryside and then arriving in another, differently busy city-centre will be one of the most amazing adventures you can pack into 10 days on a bike.

Edible bird’s nests are bird nests that are prepared and eaten by humans, particularly prized in Chinese culture due to their rarity and supposedly exquisite flavor. They are among the most expensive animal products consumed by humans, with an average nest selling for $2,500 per kilogram for end-consumers in Asia. The nests have been used in Chinese cooking for over 400 years, most often as bird’s nest soup.- Wikipedia

One of the biggest pleasure when one cycles in distant places such as the 2015 Bamboo Road or 2016 Tran-Oceania is coming across something unexpected, unusual, something that stir the mind and emotions. This is particularly true when the object is aesthetic, creative and daring.

But what if you come up across 3 or 4 stories cement towers with a small door at ground level, with no windows but a few small openings for what you think may be birds? What the heck is that thing?

You could stop and go investigate but you let it go. After all, it is just uninviting cement building. A while later you see another similar building. And over a few weeks you will see them here and there.

Not many and each time you ask yourself, they must be for birds, but what is it? Are they raising birds for meat, eggs? But what kind of birds?

By the time you get to the hotel or camp you have seen so many interesting things that cement towers are not one of the things you remember. And then one day you are sitting at home, reading a book called Krakatoa by Simon Winchester and come across this passage describing a small town called Banten in Northwestern Java , once the capital of Batam empire. “Just beside the old Dutch fort… stands a curio of immense and very ugly cement towers. They look mysterious and rather sinister. ..They look as if they might be kin to Fort Speelwijk, fortress of a kind too, a protection for a population fretful about some nameless and more contemporary disaster.” But of course, they are nothing of the kind. The passage goes on to explain that the structures are “homes for birds called swiftlets, whose saliva is the basis for that most celebrated Cantonese Aphrodisiac – birds nest soup“. Who knew!

“The nests are supposedly rich in nutrients, which are traditionally believed to provide health benefits, such as aiding digestion, raising libido, improving the voice, alleviating asthma, improving focus and an overall benefit to the immune system. Birds nests have high levels of calcium, iron, potassium, and magnesium” – Wikipedia. Who would say no all of that.

Now as you know well from reading my blogs, at the end there is always a point, some advice or just a suggestion. So here it goes. When you look at the picture below and see that a ‘bird nest box’ costs US$ 888.99, I suggest that if you are planning to cycle the next Bamboo Route or the Trans-Oceania (in particular Malaysia and Indonesia ), stop and investigate those unassuming concrete buildings. You just may be able to negotiate one hell of a deal for a box or two of Bird Nests. Of course, you may have some explaining to do if the customs agents ask you what it is.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2015/01/cycling-and-birds-nest-soup/feed/0The Bamboo Road from a Buddhist Perspectivehttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/the-bamboo-road-from-a-buddhist-perspective/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/the-bamboo-road-from-a-buddhist-perspective/#commentsSat, 28 Dec 2013 20:43:06 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13631 As we cycle south through north Vietnam, into Lao and Cambodia there are increasing signs that ‘there be Buddhists here’—shrines]]>

As we cycle south through north Vietnam, into Lao and Cambodia there are increasing signs that ‘there be Buddhists here’—shrines and temples by the road, elegant Buddhas on hillsides, monks on their morning ‘alms round’, Buddhas of all shapes and sizes in the markets. These sights are one of the bonuses of ‘cycling head down, ass up’ for several hours a day as the trip includes hills, long stretches where the road virtually disappears then reappears every kilometer or so, blaring horns, 35C+ degree heat, dust, scooter and truck/bus exhaust, and much more. As a Buddhist might say, this trip offers an intense and focused opportunity to reflect on aspects of the dhamma. (The Dhamma denotes both Buddha’s teachings and the direct experience of nibbāna, the quality at which those teachings are aimed.) (1)

Nibbana names the transcendent and singularly ineffable freedom that stands as the final goal of all the Buddha’s teachings.
Defined in terms of what it is… “This is peace, this is exquisite—the resolution of all fabrications, the relinquishment of all acquisitions, the ending of craving; dispassion; cessation; Nibbana.”

Two aspects of Buddhism – a Buddhist attitude of mind and the first noble truth – are referenced in this article.

Buddhist Attitude of Mind

The Buddha claimed no inspiration from any god or external power … Only a woman or a man can become Buhddha. We all have within ourselves the potential to become a Buddha, if only we work at it. Within Buddhism we are recognized as being our own masters. There is no higher being or power that sits in judgment over our destiny. (2) Applied to the terms of this trip, it means, no “whining” or complaining about others for the way things are, especially when they’re not the way we think they should be.

First Noble Truth

There is the presence of suffering (or ‘dukkha in pali’, incapable of satisfying, not able to bear or withstand anything: always changing, incapable or making us truly happy)—“birth is suffering, aging is suffering, sickness is suffering, disassociation from the loved is suffering, not getting what one wants is suffering …. (3)

We can add cycling to this list. Well, given that we’ve all put time, energy and money into being here, let’s realistically call cycling the ‘little suffering’. It’s rather mild in the broad scheme of things.

According to Sumedho, to let go of suffering we need to ‘admit it into consciousness’. Normally, suffering is not something we really want to focus on. Most of us have a tendency to deny it, or rationalize it away—no pain no gain—or power our way through the difficult parts.

Until we learn how to watch the mind in the right way we suffer unnecessary fear and anxiety from the endless changing conditions within and around us. … Watch your heart, observe. Be the knower, not the condition. Mindfulness is the escape hatch (i.e., from suffering). (4)

Admitting the daily dissatisfactions of the trip (e.g., being less than happy with our accommodations, or uncertain about what lies down the road, or put off by our fellow riders, or the morning rush of getting ready to ride) and so on into our consciousness is one way to practice the first noble truth—“there is suffering, it should be understood and finally, it has been understood” (Sumedho). Reflecting in this manner can also highlight what a trip like this involves in terms of “little suffering”.

Two Examples

• Starting the day. For many riders, especially in the beginning portions of the trip, getting ready to ride was/is a source of tension. There’s a lot to do in a short time—pack bags and get them to the truck, dress and inventory aches and pains, eat breakfast, check bicycle, fill water bottles … . After a couple of weeks things feel more calmed. Riders appear less stressed, more relaxed and this includes me. The remaining sore point seems to be breakfast, its quantity, quality and timeliness. Many of us still ‘jump the gun’ in our rush to finish breakfast and get on the road. Is being calm through all this and maintaining a snippet of equanimity (unshakable balance of mind, rooted in insight) practicing Buddhism? Perhaps, but admitting these associated tensions into our consciousness sure helps.

• Dealing with expectations. Or rather dealing with our reactions when things don’t work out the way we expect doesn’t correspond to our expectations or the way things ‘should be’. It’s not an ‘either or’ thing as we need expectation to prepare for each day, e.g., how far is the ride; where are the turns; how will we know we’re on the right road; are their any hills and on which part of the route?

A couple of days back a number of riders were led to believe that the upcoming day’s ride would be reasonably smooth. This turned out not to be the case, and big time! The road was a mess of dirt, dust, potholes and broken pavement for kilometers on end. This made things much more difficult what with the dust, having to be constantly on the alert for rocks and holes and all manner of vehicles searching for places to pass. Some riders were somewhat miffed as they felt mislead and that the road conditions should have been made much clearer. This all came to a head at the next day’s rider meeting. I’m not sure how things turned out or whether any resolution was achieved. A number of riders were matter-of-fact about taking things as they were —time to move on. The road was the road and knowing in advance how bad it was wasn’t going change what it took to ride the day. As the popular saying goes, “It is what it is.”

Again, as in the example above, does being ‘one with the road’ constitute practicing Buddhism? Is being aware of tensions created by a gap between our expectations and reality helpful in freeing us from the “little suffering” resulting from unmet expectations? Maybe yes; maybe no, but reflecting on this and other similar incidents provides a place to begin.

This article is by a rider on the Bamboo Road trying to understand a little more about the first noble truth of Buddhism.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/the-bamboo-road-from-a-buddhist-perspective/feed/1The Last Walkabout on the Bamboo Road Bicycle Expeditionhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/the-last-walkabout-on-the-bamboo-road-bicycle-expedition/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/the-last-walkabout-on-the-bamboo-road-bicycle-expedition/#commentsMon, 23 Dec 2013 18:12:13 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13601 What can I say about Singapore? Wow. What a place. Our entry into Singapore, as with many of the routes]]>

What can I say about Singapore? Wow. What a place.

Our entry into Singapore, as with many of the routes we have cycled on during our journey from Shanghai though South East Asia, was unusual. On the Malaysian side we cycled into the small port of Pengering where we boarded three small ferries. They were loaded with our bikes and luggage and we sailed across the Singapore Straits to meet a small group of Singaporean cyclists who then led us to our final destination.

The crossing, as with almost every other aspect of this tour, seemed so smooth and simple that it is hard to imagine how much effort the Tour d’Afrique team – from Sharita, the tour leader up to Bangkok, to Miles who led the cyclists for the last month, to Michael in the Toronto office and,of course, the other field staff – Doug, Claire and Nikka – put into organizing and running it. Kudos to them for making the first ever Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition such a success.

So the tour had ended but I still had a walkabout planned for a city that has quite a reputation. Singapore is a rather innovative place, a city that also imitates and borrows ideas from other urban places. If you take part in the 2014 Trans-Europa Bicycle Expedition from St. Petersburg to Lisbon, you will pass through a rather popular place called Venice. Venice is a home to arguably the most popular art show in the world called the Venice Biennale.

Singapore, as it happens, has organized its own Biennale in the last couple of years. The first art exhibit that I happened to come across was on the grounds of the Singapore National Museum. It was an Indonesian Bamboo installation called the Wormhole. The title refers to a theoretical opening in the galaxy which allows one to traverse time and space, as well as to the insignificant passage through earth created by a burrowing earthworm. Inside the installation itself, the slow passage of time and clouds as seen through the skylights, as well as the smell of Bamboo, recalls a time when we may have lived more intimately with those sensations and materials.

I thought how appropriate. And then; is this a coincidence or is some sort of force in the galaxy trying to tell me something? I mean we just finished a cycling tour across South East Asia called the Bamboo Road and shortly I am off to scout the last of the 7Epics – the Trans-Oceania (much of it goes through Indonesia) – and here is an Indonesian artist telling me about the slow ‘traverse of time and space’, ‘of intimate memories of sensations’. I know that after finishing an Epic tour it is time to contemplate and digest what one has seen and done so is this a message from a kindred spirit to help me do just that? Or is it something else?

And as to the rest of my walkabout? What can I say about Singapore? Wow. What a place. What ambition! What audacity to reach for the skies, to think you can create a clean, wealthy, modern, functioning city that keeps its focus on the future while providing good, reasonably priced public transit, numerous wonderful and free public spaces and takes the well being of all its citizens into account? Incredible!

After almost 3 months, 7 countries & 8,000kms the riders and staff of the 2013 Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition have arrived in Singapore.

The 31 cyclists who had begun their adventure in Shanghai way back in late September were joined in the celebration by their support staff and a handful of sectional riders. In China they pedaled through bamboo-clad hills, alongside lakes and canals and stayed in ancient villages before enjoying a few days off in Hong Kong. In Vietnam they relished the beauty of Ha Long Bay. Spinning along the mighty Mekong River in rural Laos was a big hit with the riders while Cambodia featured the incredible temple complex of Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world.

In Thailand they experienced their first rain of the trip which took the sting out of the scathing heat and humidity and in Malaysia the cyclists wandered the historic streets of Malacca. They forged new friendships, cycled through stunning scenery, battled China’s hectic traffic, endured dodgy roads, sprinted past free roaming dogs and even cycled through the tail end of Typhoon Haiyan.

“The nice thing about the tour is to see the old and the new in South East Asia intermingling,” said company founder, Henry Gold who joined the expedition in Hanoi. “There is ‘fast forward’ modern development but cycling through rural areas we also got the opportunity to see and feel the traditions and the magic of the countries we cycled through. It was an amazing adventure.”

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/2013-bamboo-road-cyclists-arrive-in-singapore/feed/0Walkabout in Malaccahttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walkabout-in-malacca/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walkabout-in-malacca/#commentsWed, 18 Dec 2013 19:01:47 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13513 And so, after a three month journey from Shanghai, the Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition is enjoying its final rest day]]>

And so, after a three month journey from Shanghai, the Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition is enjoying its final rest day in Malacca. This city, situated on the coast of the Malacca Strait, has been ruled in the last five centuries by a Hindu prince, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the English, the Japanese (for a short period during WW2), then the Brits again. Finally, it became part of Malaysia.

Malacca (the 10th UNESCO site that we have cycled to on this East Asian bicycle journey) has much to offer visitors like us. There are historical places, a wonderful Chinatown and Little India, several museums and a superb local cuisine bringing together Portuguese, Chinese, Malay and Indian influences. The combination of these various spices, herbs and veggies has inspired what is called Peranakan or Nonya Cuisine. After having a couple of meals I, for one, love it.

Like on all previous rest days I took my camera and went, as Michael in the office calls it, ‘walkabout’ – an Australian term that will become familiar to you, my dear readers, on next year’s tour – the Trans-Oceania Bicycle Expedition. As the touristy part of Malacca is quite compact, it was not long before I was bumping into our Bamboo Road cyclists on their own ‘walkabouts’.

There was, however, one of our cyclists who was not walking but, to put it mildly, limping. From far away it looked rather painful and uncomfortable. But, despite appearances, there was no doubt that it was the indomitable Rae. Rae, you see, is a former NATO pilot commander and even now he keeps himself busy training pilots and investigating air accidents – when he is not cycling one of the 7Epics. He and his partner Ursula have had a rough trip, each taking a bad tumble. Nothing serious enough to stop them from cycling and investigating that curious world out there however. No sitting, resting and recovering in the hotel for them – no matter how long it took to walk up to that citadel or to check the replica of a Portuguese 16th century boat.

I could write more about Malacca but than you would not have heard about Rae and Ursula – one hell of a team of dedicated cycling tourers – and what makes our cycling adventures so special.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walkabout-in-malacca/feed/0Walking In Kuala Lumpurhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walking-in-kuala-lumpur/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walking-in-kuala-lumpur/#commentsMon, 16 Dec 2013 19:40:26 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13475 each day of the last two months I have been happy and free We have arrived in Kuala Lumpur, translated]]>

each day of the last two months I have been happy and free

We have arrived in Kuala Lumpur, translated as ‘muddy confluence’ established in 1857 by 87 Chinese prospectors. Seventy of them died within the 1st month but today it is a world class metropolis. Each day on the Bamboo Road I cycle. On the rest days, however, I walk the city. I like walking. It gives me a sense of the city; if you will, a measure of its pulse.

Kuala Lumpur is not an easy city in which to walk, even though it is relatively compact. This is not a place where a great urban planner drew up a sketch and the city developed according to the plan. The absolute opposite seems to be closer to the truth. This city seems to have expanded and grown in a manner like a child building with a Lego set. You start with something and add to it. And then you think of something else and add it. And then you realize you have a traffic jam so you try to add a monorail. And than you add some very high buildings and many people want to drive to visit these building, so you built a highway. And so on.

In any case, the end result is that you have some great neighborhoods – like Chinatown and Little India – and than you have a lot of high-rise buildings, both offices such as the iconic Petronas towers and many high-rise residential units. In fact, it is rather astonishing to see. Walking around in this city gives one a sense of awe at human abilities…and a moment later, a sense of exasperation at human short-sightedness. As the day progresses, as one’s energy saps away, the excitement of the city, the creativity, the vibe, is overshadowed by a creeping sense of alienation. The beauty you saw before is now disfigured by broken or non existent sidewalks, rubbish, dirty water, and, beggars on the street.

It was at this point in my walk that I saw a small barbershop and decided that I needed a shave. I have been enjoying the work of local barbers all along our cycling route in South East Asia, not the least because I have arthritis in my hand. What better thing to do than to use that as an excuse for a nice, soothing treat. So I walk in, sit down and start getting a shave. As the barber begins to lather my face I notice some kitschy posters on the wall. You have certainly seen the like. On one in are a group of beautiful horses and the slogan “Each Day Be Happy Be Free”. On another, depicting a person getting a haircut, there is a gorgeous waterfall and the inscription; “Happiness is Everyday Sunshine in your Life”.

As my Tamil barber diligently works, I listen to the lovely Hindu music drifting in from the outside and become acutely aware that I am in Chinatown, in Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia, having just cycled from Hanoi and, with less than a week before this adventure ends, I silently thank the barber for reminding me how for each day of the last two months I have been happy and free.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/walking-in-kuala-lumpur/feed/1Cycling into a Durian markethttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-a-durian-market/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-a-durian-market/#commentsThu, 12 Dec 2013 19:05:49 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13421 this is one stinky fruit! Today – totally unexpectedly – I was able to check one item off my ‘bucket]]>

this is one stinky fruit!

Today – totally unexpectedly – I was able to check one item off my ‘bucket list’. I must tell you right from the start that my list is not very ambitious. There are no such items as EFI-ing all 7Epics, no climbing of the 7 Summits, no free jumping (or is it falling), nor for that matter, attempting to visit every country on the planet.

You may have heard of a fruit called durian. It does not have a good reputation. No less an authority than the New York Times has called the it the smelliest fruit on earth. There are reports that the fruit has been banned from airplanes, hotels and mass transit – because this is one stinky fruit! A lot of people, however, ignore the smell for one very good reason. It tastes good. Really good.

Recently, while cycling on a beautiful quiet road, I came across a very unusual scene. Apparently it was the day that the durian attains its full ripeness and all the growers in the area had congregated to sell the fruit to the local wholesaler. I had never seen anything like this. Remember this is one putrefied fruit, or at least it smells like one. Coming upon the scene I got off my bike and, with a lot of apprehension, came closer and started taking pictures. After all, I was unsure if the smell would stick to my clothes or my skin.

My presence naturally did not go unnoticed and soon enough the buyer invited me for a tasting. With a nervousness I had not felt since planning to kiss my first date, I walked into the ring – in a manner of speaking. It actually did not smell so bad, or maybe I was just too distracted to notice. The buyer, realizing that I could do some good in publicizing his business, went from one farmer to another. He would pick up a fruit from their pile and take a whiff or two. This continued until he finally decided that one particular durian was the best. The durian was cut open with a machete and with a bravado that I did not think I still had, I took a bite and then another and another, while all the farmers anxiously looked at me. I felt like a celebrity taster at the Wine Olympics. Finally I pronounced; it is good. I like it.

So what does this have to do with my bucket list you may ask? Well, one of the items on my list was to taste a freshly picked durian fruit and to eat the worst smelling fruit on the planet. Thinking about it now, I am not sure I had accomplished this task as the fruit did not smell that bad. Maybe it smells bad a few hours or days after it had been picked.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-a-durian-market/feed/0Cycling into Penanghttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-penang/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-penang/#commentsTue, 10 Dec 2013 20:00:48 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13368 We respect each other and try not to pay too much attention to the politicians Yesterday, after cycling an easy]]>

We respect each other and try not to pay too much attention to the politicians

Yesterday, after cycling an easy 40km into Penang, or I should say into Georgetown, on Penang Island, I went for a walk. I thought I might try to grab some food in this former trading centre, a city the locals like to describe as the “Pearl of the Orient. It is one of four fascinating former colonial island outposts (Hong Kong, Macau and Singapore being the others) that cyclists on the Bamboo Road Expedition can explore on their rest days.

Georgetown is known as a place where the people that make up Malaysia; the Malay, Chinese, Indians, Tamils, expats and others, live, rub against each other and create a wonderful local mélange of culture and food. It was not long into my walk in Chinatown when I saw a packed restaurant. In front was a man making some kind of double-layered pancakes, mixed with what appeared to be pieces of meat. I also noticed that, though I was in Chinatown and the restaurant appeared to be Indian, it had a Halal sign – in other words good for Muslim diners – but no beer for me.

I decided to have a go at it and tried to find a place to sit. The only available place was in front where a man sat with his wife, whose head was covered by a scarf, and their young daughter. I pointed to the chair and he gracefully invited me to sit down. It turned out that he was a math teacher in elementary school and spoke fluent English.

“Penang is a place where we all get along” he said after some small chit chat. “We respect each other and try not to pay too much attention to the politicians. The centre of Georgetown – and proudly pointed out that it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is suffering from the emergence of large shopping malls that have been built in recent past in the area. Also an influx of foreign workers who can make more money here than in their home countries: Myanmar, Philippines, Vietnam even Thailand”. And so, while outside it started to rain, we ate and chatted about his grown-up sons who are finishing college and how he worries about their two teenagers “who all they do is play computer games and chat on their smart phones”.

And, yes, we chatted about the group cycling through South East Asia from Shanghai to Singapore and how wonderful and how healthy (while he pulled out a cigarette and smiled) it is to do all this cycling. When it came time to pay, my waiter told me that my bill had been already covered by the math teacher.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/cycling-into-penang/feed/1Thailand the Beautifulhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/thailand-the-beautiful/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/thailand-the-beautiful/#commentsFri, 06 Dec 2013 19:00:56 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13285 Rich in culture, this country is not to be missed. After two and a half months of riding through Asia’s]]>

Rich in culture, this country is not to be missed.

After two and a half months of riding through Asia’s vast continent, the Bamboo Road crew is nearing the end of their three-month journey. From China to Vietnam, Laos to Cambodia, we find ourselves now in the heart of Thailand. It goes without saying that the scenery and culture has changed drastically since our first days in Shanghai and I wondered what the cyclists thought of their long days pedaling through the area. Coming from such a unique perspective, and from people who have traveled extensively across the globe, I was curious to hear their point of view.

Across the board, everyone has commented on the food. If you like spice, and I know most of them do, then Thailand is the place to visit. From green curry to massaman, cashew chicken to spicy minced beef with a side of mango salad, it’s no secret that the Thai people know how to cook with spice, leaving the group with collective “fire mouths” each night at the dinner tables. “It’s amazing food and the best we’ve had so far” Jeff Lizotte exclaims. (He’s clearly a fan of the heat)

As they’ve all remarked at how beautiful this country is, it’s safe to say they understand the pull that Thailand has. Walli Pagniello, has nothing but good things to say about the countryside pointing out that “The last couple of days the scenery has been awesome. So exceptional that even Buddha laid down and slept.” Charles Feaver agreed and added, “the view can quickly go from ordinary to extraordinary.” With rolling hills, lush, dense jungle and mountains shooting out of the ground like the earth’s fingers, these last few days along the coast have definitely been crowd pleasers. It hasn’t gone unnoticed that we have had no shortage of gorgeous beaches to take a dip in after a long day in the saddle. Not too shabby.

While riding each day they’ve observed a difference in the road’s shoulders. These things are massive and are what all bike lanes and shoulders should be. What’s more, cars actually stop at stop signs and yield to oncoming cyclists. Not to say we didn’t learn to navigate in more aggressive traffic before but it’s a welcome courtesy, especially now that we’re dealing with riding on the left side of the road.

Since we’ve arrived, we have experienced our first, and most likely not our last, rainy day. Everyone deals with the rain differently. Some thrive in it and feel more alive, while others welcome the change in weather, rejoicing that it keeps them cooler. But most of us just can’t wait to get home and take a hot shower. Even if we are experiencing one of our “ordinary” days, Dennis Kipphardt has an optimistic and adventurous way of seeing things. He explains, “It’s all what you make it.” And that is a lesson we need to remind ourselves of throughout this adventure. Thailand is filled with all sorts of hidden and not-so-hidden goodies. If you can take time to stop and notice the things around you like markets, shops, arts and crafts, temples and mosques, you will see that Thailand is well travelled for a reason. Rich in culture, this country is not to be missed.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/thailand-the-beautiful/feed/0After six days of cycling what is one to do?http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/after-six-days-of-cycling-what-is-one-to-do/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/after-six-days-of-cycling-what-is-one-to-do/#commentsThu, 05 Dec 2013 19:00:08 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13258 Here are the stats; six days of great cycling covering 770km; two (or was it three) monsoons; starting on the]]>

Here are the stats; six days of great cycling covering 770km; two (or was it three) monsoons; starting on the east side of Thailand’s south in the town of Hua Hin on the Gulf of Thailand and crossing diagonally to the south west side to another tourist Mecca – Ao Nang on the Andaman Sea. On the way we cycled on some great quiet roads with wonderful scenery and, I would say, great weather.

You may ask yourself, is he nuts? Cycling in a monsoon is great weather? Well, for one, it is not hot and sunny. Second, it keeps you kind of comfortable as the rain is not cold and you are in no danger of catching hypothermia. Finally, when it rains like mad, it is actually quite an adventure.

Now that we are here in another – just too lovely to describe setting – what is one to do in one and half days of ‘rest’? I mean, there are some serious choices to be made. There are all sorts of wonderful islands just a short boat ride away, where one can sit and sun, or snorkel, or scuba dive, or jump off cliffs, or hike, or rock climb, or do some caving, or kayaking, or sailing, or trek in the forest, or bird-watch, or go on an excursion to several national parks, or go to the shell cemetery, or take a Thai Cooking lesson, or stay in town and shop, or, God forbid, stay by the pool and eat, drink and rest.

Choices, choices…what is one to do?

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/after-six-days-of-cycling-what-is-one-to-do/feed/0Shrimp Genetic Improvement Centerhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/shrimp-genetic-improvement-center/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/shrimp-genetic-improvement-center/#commentsWed, 04 Dec 2013 19:00:24 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13244 the new super shrimp will be twice the size Cycling and food go hand in hand. I would venture to]]>

the new super shrimp will be twice the size

Cycling and food go hand in hand. I would venture to say that everyone on the Bamboo Route cycling tour has loved the cycling but what about the food? Thai food, of course, is world famous. It is defined by four flavors; sweet, sour, salty and spicy. Every night, and at least twice a day on our rest days, we have had the opportunity to eat well and sumptuously. Curries, soups, seafood, stir frys and deep fries, hot and tangy salads, fruits sweets, Nap Pik (dips) – you name it – we have eaten it. In fact, we have been stuffing ourselves with it.

But Thailand is not sitting on its laurels. A few days ago, when we were cycling one of the many back country roads, we came across a very secret site. Well, maybe the site was not secret, but what is going on in there is top secret. I know because when I tried to get into the facility, I was stopped in my tracks.

You may think that all the top research is happening in developed countries such as USA, Japan or China. But this is not the fact. Thailand is doing its own research related to their beloved food at The Shrimp Genetic Improvements Center. Now if you ask me, I would say that the ‘One Almighty’ did a pretty good job when he/she/it designed the shrimp. It tastes very good to me! Especially here in Thailand! Of course, we humans tend to think that we can improve on the Almighty’s works. I mean, we decided to clone things because doing it the old-fashioned way between the two sexes was, I guess for some, just a bit too boring. So it is no surprise that the Thai think they can do a better job with the shrimp.

Before I got pushed out of the premises, I did manage to get some info about what the genetic improvements with the new shrimps will be. The rumors from confirmed and unreliable sources say that the new super shrimp will be twice the size, eat half the food, use quarter of the water, grow four times as fast, will not pollute the water (will actually clean up pollution) and, this is the best part, – will taste sweet, sour, salty and spicy at the same time. Amazing! I can’t wait.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/12/shrimp-genetic-improvement-center/feed/0Picture Snapping; Paying the Piperhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/picture-snapping-paying-the-piper/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/picture-snapping-paying-the-piper/#commentsSat, 30 Nov 2013 18:00:07 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13139 Visiting the temples of Angkor Wat was glorious. Looking at things other than the ruins – such as the tourists]]>

Visiting the temples of Angkor Wat was glorious. Looking at things other than the ruins – such as the tourists – was also fun.

These temples have become a major international attraction and as I walked around, I heard guides explaining the sights to their groups in just about any major language; from English, Russian, Chinese, Korean and Hindi, to French, German, Spanish and Japanese. Though the languages may be different, each, and every group does exactly the same thing: snaps pictures of the ruins, of themselves in the ruins, of their friends and children in the ruins. At times, it looks like all anyone is really interested in is making sure they have a picture; proof that they have been here.

Of course, this is not unique to Angkor. This can now be observed anywhere and everywhere we go. See, pose, snap and post right away. I have nothing against this, even though it is true that we all spend less time considering things; looking at what angle or for the best light to take the picture in. With digital camera there is really no economic cost – just snap away.

We tend to take most of our pictures in areas that have deemed to be of some importance or beauty; be it the natural world, historical sites, museum and so on. But to keep these places beautiful, to conserve and protect them, costs money. For the authorities dealing with them, there is never enough and, as a result, often there is degradation. This is particularly true for poor countries such as Cambodia.

So watching the masses snapping away, I thought why not put a price, a tiny price, on each picture taken. Those funds would go into a conservation fund. Why not create a system where, say one cent per picture is donated to such a fund; set up to conserve the natural world or sites like the Angkor temples. For example, if you are like me and took about 200 pictures than an automatic payment would be applied to my credit card. I am sure such a system could be established with a little effort.

I know that most people will say that we pay entry fees, we pay for the guides, the tuk-tuks, etc and that this already helps the local economy and so on. All true. But I know that local conservation authorities have a very hard time raising sufficient funds. Others will immediately say that, in any case, the money raised through this system will never reach the places it is really needed – whether because of corruption or bureaucracy and, on the whole, they are probably partially right. But in such poor countries as Cambodia, even a little trickle can make a difference.

In any case, what I am trying to say is that we all love national parks, historical sites, archeological sites and so on and these places, more than ever, need protection, conservation and financial assistance. These funds, in our modern world, are not available. Since we seek these places out and have the funds available to be able to go and enjoy them, I would like to think that most of us would not mind making such a small contribution.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/picture-snapping-paying-the-piper/feed/0Cycle as if the world was created just for youhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycle-as-if-the-world-was-created-just-for-you/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycle-as-if-the-world-was-created-just-for-you/#commentsFri, 29 Nov 2013 19:00:37 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13180 In Judaism there is a concept of which I know very little, except that I have heard the expression several]]>

In Judaism there is a concept of which I know very little, except that I have heard the expression several times – ‘the world was created just for you ’.

There are days when you are on a bike, the road is smooth, the traffic hardly to be noticed, the wind at your back no matter how many times you change direction, every flower looks prettier than the last one, the ocean is bluer than the last time you looked at it, the mountains resonate with luscious green. On your left between the palms, the coconuts and the bananas you see the light reflecting from the sea, and on your right, you catch a glimpse of a temple in the faraway hills, and, though it is hot and humid, the sky is scattered with clouds, making the cycling perfectly comfortable. You begin to feel that, indeed, the world was created just for you and just for this particular moment.

A few seconds later, another thought crosses your mind, the question of how did you end up deserving this? After all, we are not cycling in the Middle East where religious elders spend lifetimes studying old books, but rather in Asia. Here, what is more important, is the idea of ‘karma’. What kind of good deeds did you perform in your previous lives, that you are rewarded with such wonderful days?

From Hua Hin, cycling down the eastern coast of Thailand on quiet roads, often within a stone’s throw from the sea, passing coconut plantations and fishing villages, we have enjoyed a couple of wonderful days, each ending at a hotel situated on a gorgeous bay where we were soon eating delicious Thai food. What else can I add, but take a look at the pictures and think about your own ‘karma ’.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycle-as-if-the-world-was-created-just-for-you/feed/0Cycling into Hua Hinhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-into-hua-hin/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-into-hua-hin/#commentsTue, 26 Nov 2013 20:15:31 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13098 As you cycle into Hua Hin you come across not one, nor two, but three welcoming arches. This should be]]>

As you cycle into Hua Hin you come across not one, nor two, but three welcoming arches. This should be enough to give you a hint that our second rest day location in Thailand is ‘the’ original beach resort, tracing its genesis to the 1920s when King Rama VI built a summer residence here to escape Bangkok’s stifling climate.

It was, however, King Rama VII who began construction of a railway to the resort town which, in turn, allowed the Thai aristocracy to build their own residences nearby. Nevertheless, the real push for international tourism in the area was kick-started when the French chain Sofitel renovated the old Railway Hotel in the 1980s.

So Hua Hin is now a gathering place for thousands of international tourists, who are attracted by the beaches, the food, the easy going locals and the legendary Thai hospitality. One thing that I did not expect is that thanks to the current King Rama IX, the longest ruling monarch in the world and a devotee of Jazz, Hua Hin has an annual beach Jazz festival – unfortunately just not when we are in town. The town is also preparing for some kind of a bike event, at least I gather from looking at some of the posters around the city.

You may ask, how are the Bamboo Route cyclists faring on their rest day here? Well, according to unconfirmed rumors, some have been lingering much too long by the hotel’s large pool; others apparently have been seen fliting from one seafood restaurant to another; yet others have been ignoring the equatorial sun and have been seen stretched out on the beach. On the other hand, some have been loitering in the hotel’s lobby where the Wi-Fi connection is the strongest and still others have simply disappeared and who knows if they will have enough will power to get back on their bikes. To top it all off, just a few minutes ago I saw some cyclists limping gingerly back to their rooms – possibly as a result of a local specialty – the infamous two hour/four hand Thai massage.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-into-hua-hin/feed/0One day in the life of Bangkok as seen by a cyclist on the Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition.http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/one-day-in-the-life-of-bangkok-as-seen-by-a-cyclist-on-the-bamboo-road-bicycle-expedition/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/one-day-in-the-life-of-bangkok-as-seen-by-a-cyclist-on-the-bamboo-road-bicycle-expedition/#commentsMon, 25 Nov 2013 20:00:10 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13057 In the 1980s a series of photography books titled “A Day in the Life of America (or Australia, Spain, Japan,]]>

In the 1980s a series of photography books titled “A Day in the Life of America (or Australia, Spain, Japan, Canada, California, Hawaii, etc)” were published. In fact, they are still available on Amazon today. If my recollection is correct, dozens of professional photographers were told to take a series of photographs on one particular day in one particular country/region. The best pictures were then collected into a book.

I am not a professional photographer, nor did I have enough time to plan what would I photograph and neither did I have all day to take pictures. In addition, I had to work with a cheap digital camera. But for a few hours on our rest day in Bangkok, I was taking pictures and stuffing my camera into people’s faces in order to produce a collection I call “One day in the life of Bangkok as seen by a cyclist on the Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition“.

Yes, the name is a little long, my lack of talent is showing and Bangkok, a metropolis of eight million people that spreads over an area of 1600 square kms is a rather large subject for one photographer. My collection will certainly not be published in a book but I had fun and I did get to see a whole lot of Bangkok.

Create your own ‘Day in the Life’ collection on the next Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition in 2015. Registration is now open.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/one-day-in-the-life-of-bangkok-as-seen-by-a-cyclist-on-the-bamboo-road-bicycle-expedition/feed/0These pictures are not from the North American Epic cycling tourhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/these-pictures-are-not-from-the-north-american-epic-cycling-tour/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/these-pictures-are-not-from-the-north-american-epic-cycling-tour/#commentsFri, 22 Nov 2013 18:00:40 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=13034 Cambodia is a very poor country struggling with its recent horrors and trying to find its own way in the]]>

Cambodia is a very poor country struggling with its recent horrors and trying to find its own way in the modern world. Our passage through it was interesting and educational. On our final day, as we approached the actual border with Thailand, we saw a huge building that seemed totally out of place. What is it, I asked myself? After fulfilling all of the required border procedures, I crossed into the ‘no-mans’ land and realized that the building in question was a huge casino. Instantly, there was a sense of cognitive dissonance. It somehow did not feel right.

One only needs to cycle few hundred meters into Thailand to realize that the world has changed. The road splits into four lanes with good shoulders to cycle on, the traffic immediately increases, the cars on the road are new and poor Cambodia quickly disappears into the deep depths of our memory.

And than new signs start appearing – images that almost feel like they should be from the North American Epic cycling tour. “Park Your Horse and Stay Awhile” ranch, “Cowboy of Love”, restaurant, “Sakaeo Sheep Frams” (oops I think that was meant to be ‘farm’), “Sunrise Lagoon Country Club” . The advertising felt almost like it belonged in Texas. When ‘Cars for Sale’ lots started to appear along with gas stations looking a lot like Texaco, I began to wonder if I was on the wrong tour.

But just than, thankfully, I noticed a beautiful Thai gate – than a couple of more – and my pulse mercifully started to come down. I realized that all is well and I was on my way to Bangkok.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/these-pictures-are-not-from-the-north-american-epic-cycling-tour/feed/0Cycling the Temples of Angkor Wathttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-the-temples-of-angkor-wat/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-the-temples-of-angkor-wat/#commentsTue, 19 Nov 2013 20:47:39 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12979 It has been called the 8th wonder of the world, as famous as the Valley of the Kings in Egypt]]>

It has been called the 8th wonder of the world, as famous as the Valley of the Kings in Egypt or the Inca fortress of Machu Picchu in Peru. It is without any doubt ‘the’ major Cambodian treasure, a cause of great pride and source of national identity. The Lonely Planet guidebook begins with the following four words: Prepare for divine intervention!

The Temples of Angkor, a UNESCO site, were the capital of an ancient Khmer empire which extended to what is today large parts of Thailand, Malaysia, Laos, Vietnam and even Southern China. These ruins are spread over a huge area of 400 square/kms and date from a time in the 12th century when London was a little town and New York did not even exist. Here in South-East Asia, however, there existed a city of over one million people. Over the last three days we have had a chance to explore its ruins for ourselves.

Like the rest of the group I set out to explore, to cycle and walk the ruins, to ponder on the greatness of the Khmer empire. And if what I saw is any indication – great it was. Wow! How do I now transmit to you how amazing this site actually is? I mean, you can read books about it or you can get a quick overview by going to Wikipedia. At home I have an old issue of National Geographic dedicated to the Angkor temples and I am sure there are many documentary films that feature the place. All of these can give you much more and much better information than I could ever do in a blog.

So, instead after going through the gazillion photos that I took, I thought I should show you a few things from my perspective. There is only one problem with that and that is when you take a gazillion photos; it is hard to go through them and narrow them down to the few that would best capture the spirit of the place and reflect what was going through my mind when I decided to take each picture – ah, the joys of the digital camera – perhaps the subject for another blog.

So, with great apologies to the Gods of Angkor and the masses of people who, like me, had all of the best intentions in the world to make the most out of their experience, here are a few ‘gems’ of my own (with the help of a filter or two), – never before published by any major or minor media, ready to go viral, and guaranteed to put you on the first plane to Angkor. At the very least, they will encourage you to register for 2015 Bamboo Route where you can see for yourself one of the planet’s real treasures.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/cycling-the-temples-of-angkor-wat/feed/0Going for the Centuryhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/going-for-the-century/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/going-for-the-century/#commentsSat, 16 Nov 2013 18:00:43 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12900 The oldest participant on the inaugural Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition, Walburga Pagniello, gave herself one major goal before the tour]]>

The oldest participant on the inaugural Bamboo Road Bicycle Expedition, Walburga Pagniello, gave herself one major goal before the tour and that was to cycle a century – a ride of 100 miles or 160km. Wally is a veteran of the Orient Express and North American Epic Cycling Expeditions and on those tours she would often hear her friends talk about cycling a century. I will not reveal Walli’s age – suffice to say that she is young at heart and, as we found out yesterday, young in spirit.

Yesterday was not a good day for Walli to choose to do her first century. The cycling began in the center of Phnom Penh – one of the most chaotic places – at least for traffic – I have ever seen. As we arrived on the outskirts of the city we encountered road construction. Generally, road construction might mean an organized detour for a few km or so before returning traffic to the normal route. This, however, was not the case. The construction went on for about 50km with obstacles, dirt roads and cars racing in every direction creating an immense amount of dust. Once the construction ended, the road alternated between good pavement and endless pot holes with traffic zooming by. When I finally arrived at lunch – 80km out of the planned 170km day – Walli was already there – covered with dust but as exuberant as ever.

Personally, between the heat, the head wind and the dust, I was done for the day. So were another nine riders already sitting and waiting for the van that would pick us up. I looked at Walli – certain that she would get in the van as well. Instead she said; “I am feeling good, all the stars are aligned and I am doing the whole thing”. And off she went.

At 17.45, Tour Leader Sharita was giving the next day’s cycling instructions. There were a lot of tired and disgruntled individuals after a tough day. While the meeting was still going on, in walked Walli, celebrating her first ever century and lifting all of our spirits. Thanks Walli, for once again reminding us that difficulties are just another way to get most out of our days.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/going-for-the-century/feed/1Sensory Overdose; Cycling from Kratie to Kampong Champhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/sensory-overdose-cycling-from-kratie-to-kampong-champ/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/sensory-overdose-cycling-from-kratie-to-kampong-champ/#commentsThu, 14 Nov 2013 18:15:35 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12827 Perhaps it was the fact that I did not cycle yesterday and had to tend ‘the refresh point’ for a]]>

Perhaps it was the fact that I did not cycle yesterday and had to tend ‘the refresh point’ for a long time. Or perhaps it was the early start we had this morning that put me on the road by 6AM. To be honest, I had been warned this could happen. But I suppose I like to live dangerously. Some of you may remember that a while ago I wrote how I suffer from a dreaded disease called Adventuratis to which there is yet no known cure. I have been fortunate enough to be treated by a world leading expert, the famous Czech researcher and all around Renaissance man, Dr. Cimmerman. Dr. Cimmerman told me that I am a high risk individual and who knows what may happen.

Well, today as soon as I started cycling, things started going haywire. First, was the early morning light that gave all sorts of unusual stimulations to my senses. I picked up my camera and started clicking away. At every new turn there was something to snap at; vistas and fields that were fifty shades of green, buildings of all sizes and colors, people – old and young – farming the fields and traveling on scooters and bikes, men and women working beside the road, kids going to and from school, temples galore and even a mosque or two. All this, while to my right, at irregular intervals, the mighty Mekong would come into view, sometimes close, sometimes further away, always exciting. Adding to the general overload, cows, horses, pigs, geese, roosters and ducks would announce loudly that they were in the area and I better look at them or else who knows what would happen.

Than came kids of all sizes and shapes, who insisted on getting my attention. While all this was going on, my stomach was noticing trees of mangoes, papaya and coconuts intermixed with domesticated and wild flowers. There were wedding preparations, chanting of religious mantras communicated over powerful speakers and traveling salesman announcing their wares. And it never let up. All day long!

It was at this point that I started realizing that I was experiencing what Dr. Cimerman has called a ‘dangerous overload of sensory stimulation’ – think of it as an overdose of sensory stimulation. And once it begins, there is no telling what might happen. In fact, I knew I was in desperate trouble as I cycled over another tributary of the Mekong and saw the River Spirits inviting me to take a dip with them to enjoy the coolness of the river. They were as Odysseus described – beautiful and with voices as sweet as the sweetest honey.

As the day progressed and got hotter and hotter, the calls from the water sirens got more and more enticing. It was only due to the quick action of our nurse who, as soon as she saw me, realized I was in terrible shape and took the appropriate action, that I am here writing about this. It could have ended very differently.

The Lonely Planet section on Phnom Penh states, “It’s exotic, it’s chaotic, it’s beguiling, it’s distressing, it’s compulsive, it’s repulsive”. If you cycle to Phnom Penh, averaging well over 100km per day with humidity close to 100% and temperatures above 40C and find yourself in a nice cool hotel room – what would you choose to do on your rest day in Phnom Penh, given such a description?

Some cyclists will simply say ‘I am here to rest and re-hydrate’. Some will focus on the beguiling, sightseeing at the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, strolling along the riverfront and eating in fine restaurants. Others may choose to focus on the distressing – the dark side of human nature and visit the infamous Tuol Sleng museum or the ‘Killing Fields’. I chose the latter activity, not because I am uninterested in the beguiling or exotic, it is just that on our tours we tend to emphasize the positive in human nature and not the repulsive or distressing. And Tuol Sleng, the torture museum, and Choeung Ek, as the killing fields are known here, are more than repulsive and distressing.

Not so long ago, between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rouge regime came to power with the idea of creating a ‘New Man’. During this short time period, these rulers managed to kill and torture over two million of their own citizens, about a quarter of the country’s population. Their victims were buried in over 300 killings fields (such as Cheung Ek). How was this possible? How could it happen? It is not something I could ever explain. Suffice to say, a ‘New Man ’ was not created. Instead, a rather more traditional aspect of mankind was exposed once again – our innate and immense capacity to kill.

Cheung Ek is a solemn place to walk around. There are 18 stations to visit and at each there is a short commentary. Two stations, in particular, speak loudly in simple terms of what happened at these sites – warning about the human capacity for genocide and pointing to the places around the globe where this has happened over the last couple of centuries. It seems that given the right circumstances, any charismatic individual with powerful allies – who see a political advantage in protecting him – can convince people to kill men, women and children, without feeling any remorse.

Cycling is a great way to see the world, but for me, at least, it is also a great way not only experience the exotic, the chaotic, the beguiling, but also to contemplate the distressing, the compulsive and the repulsive.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/another-history-lesson/feed/012 things I will miss about cycling in Laoshttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/12-things-i-will-miss-about-cycling-in-laos/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/12-things-i-will-miss-about-cycling-in-laos/#commentsTue, 12 Nov 2013 18:00:20 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12746 1. Beerlao
2. The lush scenery on both sides of the road
3. The hotels on the Mekong River in which we stayed]]>

8. The open market dinners – especially the sweet pancake
9. The laid-back approach of the Laotians

10. The dramatic Karst mountains
11. Ice coffee at every stop

12. Dark Beerlao

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/12-things-i-will-miss-about-cycling-in-laos/feed/0Rest Day in Si Phan Donhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/rest-day-in-si-phan-don/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/rest-day-in-si-phan-don/#commentsFri, 08 Nov 2013 17:12:05 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12720 in Laos it is known that ‘too much work is bad for your brain’ For us in North America, when]]>

in Laos it is known that ‘too much work is bad for your brain’

For us in North America, when someone says “no problem” we immediately think of Jamaica. In Laos, however, the translation would be “Baw pen nyang”. Some think that this is the result of the type of Buddhism practiced in Laos, known as Theravada which emphasizes ‘the cooling of human passions’. But I am not much of an expert on passions so I will leave that to others to comment on. What I do know is that Laos is well known as a laid-back country or rather the population is thought of as being ‘laid-back’. So before we depart the country our intrepid tour leader Sharita, scheduled a rest day in a place called Four Thousand Islands (not to be confused with the Thousand Islands in Southern Ontario) – better known as Si Phan Don.

Laos and its people were once described rather disapprovingly by the French (former colonial rulers of the area): “The Vietnamese plant rice, the Cambodian watch it grew and the Lao listen to it grow”. Si Phan Don is known as the ‘laid back of the laid back’ where life slows done even more. Arriving here on a wonderful ferry, a handful of cyclists at a time, we parked ourselves on the verandah of our hotel, situated right on top of the Mekong, to sip drinks, tell bicycling stories from the last few days, count boats as they sped by (I counted three in a period of 90 minutes) and generally listen to the water flow by.

Of course I would be remiss to say that is all we do on our rest day. We all – well most of us – had to walk 500 meters to a local laundry to deposit our sweaty bike clothes and we will then have to walk back to pick it up. I tell you, it is hard to find good service. The truth is that there are some cyclists (whose identity I will protect) who need some time to adjust to becoming ‘laid back’ and they have decided to take a boat and visit some of other four thousand islands near by. A couple of the islands in particular are known as ‘Travelers’ Mecca’ or ‘the land of lotus eater’. I hope that they will be able to refill their restless souls there.

In any case I now must end this short blog because in Laos it is known that ‘too much work is bad for your brain’ and here they ‘tend to feel sorry for people who think too much’. And frankly it is really important for me to fit in.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/rest-day-in-si-phan-don/feed/1No, we are not cycling the Ho Chi Minh Trailhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/no-we-are-not-cycling-the-ho-chi-minh-trail/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/no-we-are-not-cycling-the-ho-chi-minh-trail/#commentsTue, 05 Nov 2013 18:00:02 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12665 one could say thousands of men fought and died in the name of ideas that, to some today, may sound]]>

one could say thousands of men fought and died in the name of ideas that, to some today, may sound almost nonsensical.

We have reached Savannakhet or as it is known here Savan, the provincial capital of the Savannakhet province, the most populated of all of the provinces of Laos. By now, our fourth day in Laos, I can safely say that the riders are thoroughly enjoying this country. The cycling has been great with good paved roads and very little traffic. The scenery has been wonderful and the people we encounter have been very hospitable. It is almost impossible to think that over 40 years ago when I was coming of age this country suffered through perhaps the heaviest bombing in the world – ever. Apparently in 1969 there were up to 900 US Air Force sorties…per day!

Remnants of those days remain as I noticed a few times during our first and second day of cycling. Take a look at the photo of the sign beside the road and you will find explanation that the explosives in these areas had been removed and the area is safe to wander around. And the work still goes on. Just this past August the US government provided US$1.8 million for clearance of an additional 300 local development points identified by Lao government as a priority.

The town Savanaketh is also the closest we will get on this cycling tour to the famous Ho Chi Minh Trail. Ho Chi Minh, the founder of Vietnamese Communist Party, was probably the most important individual in the long and tortuous effort to kick the French and the USA out of Vietnam. One of the ways the Vietnamese did it was by building a complex pattern of dirt paths and gravel roads through the jungles of Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. These served as an infiltration route to reach South Vietnam and provide the North’s Viet Cong allies with ammunition, supplies and everything else to be able to fight first the French and then the Americans successfully.

Apparently very little evidence is now left of this vast network so we will not have the opportunity to actually go and stand silently in places where, looking back, one could say thousands of men fought and died in the name of ideas that, to some today, may sound almost nonsensical. But then on many of our 7EPICS expeditions we travel through places where horrendous deeds were done in the name of conquests, glory, religions, competition for resources and for the many other crazy schemes mankind has invented.

Personally I think that it is a good thing to visit these places so that we can all be on guard when the next such obsession begins to simmer. Perhaps in some small way we can all be part of trying to prevent it.

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/no-we-are-not-cycling-the-ho-chi-minh-trail/feed/0Déjà vu all over againhttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/deja-vu-all-over-again/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/deja-vu-all-over-again/#commentsSun, 03 Nov 2013 19:09:00 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12632 I found small cans of iced coffee, a coconut energy drink, a salty green tea drink We have reached the]]>

I found small cans of iced coffee, a coconut energy drink, a salty green tea drink

We have reached the mighty Mekong River. Over 4,000km long with its origins in the highlands of Tibet, it is the world’s 12th longest river, 10th in terms of the volume of water and, according to Lonely Planet, feeds 60 million people. For more than half the distance from its source, the river runs in China, however, the Mekong also courses more through Laos then any other South East Asian country.

Getting here, for me, was what someone once called “deja vu all over again”. That is right, after we crossed the Vietnamese /Laotian border, I had the sense that I had seen this mountainous landscape before. Of course, just like the expression ‘déjà vu all over again’, this was pure nonsense as I had never been in Laos previously, at least not in this lifetime and certainly not on a bicycle.

However the feeling was real, simply because less than two months ago I was cycling in the Rockies on the North American Epic Bicycle Expedition and the forest, mountains and karst scenery kept bringing up recollections of that wonderful ride. Of course that only added to the joy I was feeling, as how many other people could have the same wonderful experience? (Well, there is one other rider on the trip who has also done a large chunk of the North American Epic.)

However, I must admit that this joyous feeling started evaporating at around 11AM when the humidity, the sun and the heat began to take a toll on me. My energy was evaporating. I was sweating profusely. Fortunately there are plenty of what we on our tours call ‘coke stops’ – even though I have yet to see a coke here. To my pleasant surprise I found small cans of iced coffee, a coconut energy drink, a salty green tea drink as well as the usual abundance of pop drinks – all nicely cold.

All this to simply tell you that Laos so far has been great. With population of about 6 million people, the cyclists, after biking through over-populated China and Vietnam, are enjoying the much more peaceful and laid back atmosphere of Laos and, except for me, are all as energetic as ever. In fact, while I am sitting here in my air-conditioned room writing, they have gone sightseeing in search of more adventures.

PS. One more thing I forgot to mention. Laos has a great beer called Beer Lao, which comes in 630ml bottles (for those of you still confused about litres – it simple means big, cold bottles). Now, some may say that I am biased. After all, the Beer Lao brew master studied in Czechoslovakia and Beer Lao is styled after the world famous Czech Pilsner. All I can say is try Beer Lao!

]]>http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/deja-vu-all-over-again/feed/0Riding a bike is like lifehttp://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/riding-a-bike-is-like-life/
http://tourdafrique.com/2013/11/riding-a-bike-is-like-life/#commentsFri, 01 Nov 2013 18:00:21 +0000http://tourdafrique.com/?p=12606 From the looks of it, Dien Thanh, a small resort on the South China Sea about 250km south of Hanoi,]]>

From the looks of it, Dien Thanh, a small resort on the South China Sea about 250km south of Hanoi, is well past its ‘best before’ date. On the map it doesn’t look like there is an airport nearby, but I imagine if there was one, some people would be using it. Of course, there are other ways of getting here. There is a major road that connects to Hanoi and you can come here either by public transport, by car or, as many Vietnamese like to travel, by scooters. We, of course, chose to come here by bicycle. Let me tell you, was it ever fun! And as I was cycling and having a grand old time it crossed my mind that cycling to get to a place can, in many ways, illustrate how one lives one’s life.

Planning a journey, most of the time, means that you will attempt to get there as efficiently as you can, in order to maximize the time you have at your destination. Doing it this way means that your journey is not much fun, in fact, it is an almost necessary evil. Thus speed is essential. Of course, there are alternatives. You can give yourself an unstructured goal instead so that you somehow get to a place such as Dien Thanh. The journey is really the important thing and every second of it is a celebration of life.

And so, in our case, it was a celebration that lasted three days. It meant that instead of covering 250km, we cycled more like 400km but instead of seeing cars, trucks and motorcycles all full of sound and fury, I saw beautiful greenery, tons of smiling children waving, a church or more like a cathedral being built or reconstructed, experienced the opportunity to chat with locals, was told by a pretty eight or nine year on a bike practicing her English that I am a beautiful boy (not bad a for a man of sixty plus) and even got to smoke a bamboo pipe (if you intend of trying this, you better have strong lungs).

It was, I believe, Albert Einstein who famously advised his son that “life is like riding a bicycle, if you stop you will fall off”. Today, while being greeted for the 100th time, I thought that maybe I could paraphrase the mad physics professor and state that “riding a bike is like life, if you try to get to your goal any faster that the speed of a bike you will get to your destination but you will miss the great, small moments that make life worth living”.