STATEN ISLAND, NY — Chinese food runs along a few predictable veins on Staten Island: We have our Chi-mix types of places, establishments that "mix" up the menu with Mexican food, sushi, French fries, Buffalo wings, even Jamaican patties. We also have our more upscale Chinese with cloth napkins and table linens, flaming pupu platters, umbrella-garnished Mai Tais that pack a punch and assorted dishes tinted with old-school, psychedelic vegetable coloring.

Then, there's China Chalet in Eltingville, a consistently wonderful restaurant that leans toward the upscale side and turns out superior Szechuan and Cantonese fare. And, yes, they serve wings.

The spacious main dining area may remind one of a Chinatown dim sum hall with a smattering of linen-covered tables and white upholstered booth seating. The focal point of the space is a glittering crystal chandelier that hugs the ceiling. The kitchen is not within view or earshot to patrons. That matter and the restaurant's fairly thick carpeting lend a hush to the restaurant — it's a civilized place with an oddly appealing 80s elegance about it.

China Chalet is the one place on Staten Island that serves dim sum-like foods, which makes it an exciting stop for lunch. Phenomenal dishes of this genre include any and all hand-folded dumplings (particularly a steamed, sticky florescent-hued veggie one and translucent Har Kow made with shrimp) along with a bean curd roll prepared with flattened and fried tofu, a flabby wrapper filled with pork bits covered in a delicate brown sauce.

Jellyfish anyone? Go for it if you're into chewy textured bites from its slivered strands — pure delight.

Here, the flaming pupu platter features honeyed spare ribs, authentic shrimp toast with a meaty shrimp preparation pressed into one side of the fried bread triangles, medium-rare slices of tender beef and, of course, wings. China Chalet's version of the chicken appetizer is coated in a thick batter — super crisp and not greasy.

With that in mind, seafood shines. Chilean Sea Bass and a separate dish of sliced conch were spectacular with asparagus, mushrooms and the like — the shelled fish perfectly cooked to a slightly leathery consistency. Grand Marnier shrimp offered with steamed broccoli were stellar, although the sauce lacked orange flavor.

View full sizeAWE PHOTOS/JAN SOMMA-HAMMELChina Chalet
4326 Amboy Rd., Eltingville;
718-984-8044; ChinaChalet.com Rating: THREE STARSMenu: Chinese with a focus on Szechuan and Cantonese cooking.
Atmosphere: Single, dining area with booth seating and tables that allow large dinner/lunch parties, separate bar area hospitable for dining and a take-out section off to the side. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: Soup: $3.25 and up; Rice and noodles: $1.50-$16.95; Entrees: $13.25-$27.95.Drinks: Full bar with generous pours; wines by the glass only; modest selection of bottled beers. Specs: Expansive parking lot; wheelchair accessible although users may have an awkward time navigating the ladies room.

Service is incredibly efficient (on one visit our apps came out of the kitchen within minutes of ordering) with business-like waiters who, for better or worse, take some time to mellow out and warm up to patrons. (Smile, guys! You work in an awesome restaurant!)

It would be nice to see wet cloths presented after messy foods are consumed but attention to napkin conditions made the situation forgivable. And the fresh-cracked cans of soda and sweet iced tea took the class level of the place down a small notch.

All in all, China Chalet is outstanding and arguably one of the best Chinese restaurants in the borough.