Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

One of my favorite short trad climbs of all time! Two excellent pitches are different in character but both technical and delicate. Not nearly as scary as the guide makes it out to be. Start on the front of the Our Father/Wholesome Fullback pinnacle at a thin crack and face.

P1: Climb straight up past a few bolts to a mantle ledge, clip the bolt above from this ledge, shake out, then reverse the mantle and finger traverse right for a ways until a weakness allows you to pull the roof and climb back left (an RP is useful to protect this "scary" section). Belay in a little hole with a nest of decent gear. 5.11a.

P2: Climb out right to the exposed, sharp, arete and up this past several bolts. Pull onto the face and continue up easier (possibly loose) rock until a final mantle lands you at the top of the pillar. 5.11a.

On the FA I tried to go direct on the first pitch but couldn't and eventually launched out right. Dave was able to place a large cam (#4) high on the second pitch in an inobvious square hole on the left side of the arete. I remember that he was pretty happy to get a cam out there. It was butt-cold during the FA and we had down jackets that I think we even climbed in.

This route is outrageously good. I'm surprised it doesn't get more hype. The traverse on p1 seemed substantially harder than anything on p2. So maybe 11b for one and 11a for two. I'd put it in the category of "scary" but not "holy shit, I'm gonna die". I followed p1 so I didn't look too carefully, but I remember the bolts looking fine.

I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars.