Capt. Jeremy was with me every step of the way, and spent countless hours talking to Buyers, to me, and taking pictures and even taking his little boat out to help with sea trials. We didn't always agree on pricing, but he was patient with me and consistently provided sound advice. I would highly recommend Capt. Jeremy, Tricia Thompson, and the staff at PoP Yachts.

Stock #040442

She was originally painted yellow, but more recently she is painted with Orca or Killer Whale markings!!!

Originally built for the Swedish Navy to be used among other things as a target while training other submariners to read sonar.

The current seller has owned the S-101 for over twelve years.

There was only ever one made like it. However, a sister sub was also built.

It is named S-102.

This was primarily used by the current seller as a pleasure craft in the Seattle area in Lake Union which is fresh water.

Currently the sub was found to have engine failure.

The Diesels' pistons are stuck to the cylinders. Without the engine, the air system that helps the sub rise can only be charged by taking the air bottles out of the sub.

When the engine is running, a generator is able to run a high pressure pump which will charge the air system.

The seller is prepared to dive the sub as is.

The S-101 is a versatile, multi-role 2-person diesel electric submarine that is highly autonomous and relatively cost-effective to operate.

There are no subs like this really & a new one would cost about one million for the manufaturer to reproduce.

Roughly there are a hundred thousand dollars in parts.

Powered by a 50 HP, 3 cylinder, Perkins diesel engine, model D3-152 on the surface the submarine has a range of 200 miles, obviating the need for an expensive support ship, the use of which often typifies civil submarine operations.

Operation is simple with intuitive controls and F-16 style joysticks. One of the submarine's unusual characteristics is its relatively light weight, by submarine standards, which allows for launch and recovery from a large yacht or ground transportation by trailer. It is approximately 13,000 pounds. Trailer is over two thousand pounds.

This submarine was originally built by U.S. Submarines' Principal Engineer for the Swedish Navy to train against Soviet mini-submarine incursions into Sweden's territorial waters. It was later sold to the Sea Shepherds Conservation Society. It was completely refit from 2000 to 2004.

The submarine has made 14 test dives in Lake Washington and Puget Sound and was fully dive ready.

More recently, it dove two years ago in 2016. We dove twice using the new trailer.

A new battery charger was installed which upset the weight & buoyancy. New batteries were also installed on the seventy two volt system. They are all two volts making seventy two.

We were able to run the diesel, dive some on DC power. We picked a shallow spot with a low ramp & sand bottom. For the second dive we chose a deeper ramp which worked great. We determined that we needed more ballast weights.

We did not run the diesel for the second dive three days later, only used DC power. We dove, but had to abort after an hour because the communcation went down.

Turns out it worked, but on the speaker, not the hand held mic.

The vhf also works up until a certain depth.

On the first dive, we realized we had to replace the weight taken away by replacing the battery charger. We added ballast (lead dive weights) to where we had the propper buoyancy.

Seller is prepared to dive for a water trial. We are not able to use the generator for the time being.

Run time is typically not a function of depth but of electrical power. We estimate that there is at least 8 hours battery power at depth with limited use of lights, sonar and moderate speed (the big drivers for battery power).

We also estimate that there is life support (O2 and CO2 scrubber) for 72 hours per ABS regulations. Neither one of these has been tested, but we have done several multiple diving days where we have run the sub for over 8 hours (total) without needing to charge.

S101 was designed as a workboat capable of doing underwater survey or salvage work. It can easily be modified to install a manipulator arm and/or side scan sonar. It has additional room/power for more lights and more air (scuba) bottles, plus an interior payload of approximately 300 lbs. It is also designed to have a low profile with little risk of entanglement (unlike most other subs with equipment hanging off all sides) and is well protected from collision damage.

Virtually all systems on the sub are redundant. Four alternatives to surface in emergency (per ABS rules), two means of propulsion, three electrical systems, and all main valves have back-ups.

Back in the ole' days... many submarines were using a 4:1 safety factor (crush depth: max. operating depth). Today, the standard convention is 2:1. S101 was built under the old rules - collapse depth is 1,250 feet and max operating depth is 300 feet. This, and the fact that everything installed on the sub was rated to 1,000 feet, is why the seller is very comfortable that the max operating depth can be increased to around 500 feet and still have a good safety factor. The seller wouldn't want to go much beyond 500 feet with all systems go, but said that someone else might be willing to try it.

S101 Maintenance Tasks

Filters:

1. There is a cooling water filter located on the STBD side of the sub directly forward of the (Bristol Pneumatics) Air Compressor. This requires only periodic cleaning but could interrupt cooling water flow should it become plugged. The bowl simply screws off but it can be difficult to do the job without spilling water everywhere!

2. The air filter is designed to clean compressed air from the aft air bottles in order to make this breathable air. It is located just aft of the main 72VDC battery box and is difficult to access. It hasn't been purged in recent memory and is on the "To Do" list. There is a manual on the filter, which describes cleaning procedures.

3. A hydraulic fluid filter sits beside the conn tower seat. I have no idea how to clean it, but there should be a manual someplace in the sub documents.

4. The diesel engine air filter and fuel filters were changed at overhaul and should have plenty of life remaining. The diesel oil filter and oil were changed in December of 2016 and the diesel has no hours on it since this time. The diesel fuel was also drained and replaced at this time, although this may already be old and new fuel may be required.

After each dive day:

5. The Bristol Air Compressor is wearing down and the oil needs changing after any significant usage. There is an easy to remove plug on the side of the unit for draining the oil. It takes standard motor oil. The unit really needs overhaul but I haven't found a shop to do it yet.

6. Bilge cleaning: Remove the floorboards in the forward section to clean the bilge areas. Be careful not to damage the VBT wiring protruding from the forward VBT bulkhead when removing the aft floorboard. Also, the rollers for the trim weight can easily be sucked out with a vacuum cleaner (several are already missing) so try to stay away from these. The bilge area under the 72 VDC battery box is probably the most difficult to access and clean. We installed a wood spacer under the box to lift it about 1 inch, which makes it easier to get a hand underneath (through the access hole in the rear stiffening ring). Always wear gloves when cleaning this area as some battery acid can drain into the water here.

7. 72 VDC Battery charging: The 72 VDC batteries are easily charged using the external cable and plugging it into the forward end of the battery-charging panel. Two circuit breakers need to be turned on and the diesel panel should be open to see the charger unit light. The 72 VDC batteries can also be charged using the diesel, but this requires maintaining high diesel RPMs to hit the frequency range to effectively charge batteries (typically 55 Hz minimum). This should be considered an emergency procedure only. To do this at rest, the diesel throttle can be pulled out to disengage the transmission and the internal battery plug is simply plugged into the receptacle on the battery-charging panel instead of the external cable. It is helpful to have additional airflow during charging, and is essential if people are inside the sub during charging.

8. 12 VDC Battery Charging: Use a standard 12 VDC car charger to charge each of the 12 VDC batteries separately (note: two 6 VDC batteries are in series to make a 12 VDC "Auxiliary" battery bank (position 2) while one 12 VDC start battery is dedicated to diesel start functions (position 1)). In emergency, the selector switch on the face of the battery case can be used in "Both" position but should not be used for charging.

9. Empty CO2 scrubber and restock scrubber material as required. I have been using DiveSorb because it is readily available.

10. Remove sonar computer and cover Echo sounder and compass.

11. Run fresh water through the VBT and all VBT pumps. Dry out VBT if the sub is being stored for a week or more. Open the panel for access to the high pressure VBT pump (Hypro) and drain any residual water in the pump using the brass drain valve attached to the lower pump exhaust fitting.

12. Wash the trailer and sub with fresh water.

Other periodic maintenance:

13. Check battery condition in the Comm Control Box and exterior strobe light.

14. Check all pneumatic actuator functions. The rear diesel exhaust actuator has been the most problematic and should be visually verified to close before submerging. This can easily be done from the pilot station with a flashlight. We added an additional exhaust valve at the rear of the aft MBT to solve trapped air issues when diving. This seems to work well but it is difficult to verify operation and it has not been secured to the inside of the MBT due to no access. It is unlikely that this would come loose during operations but it will be obvious if it does loosen, as the aft MBT won't hold air.

15. Check drop weight function and do corrosion prevention. Note: the sub must be in a special cradle for this and cannot be sitting on its keel. Do not release the drop keel without additional support for it as it weighs over 100 lbs and will drop quickly and damage almost anything below it. It is considered a one-time use option in the water--once it is released, it is probably going three feet into mud at the bottom and you won't ever see it again. So, test it carefully.

16. The bow thruster uses an oil hose located outside the bow thruster "tube" but enclosed in the forward MBT. The oil quantity should be checked yearly, if not more frequently with increased use. Note: it appears that the oil was low on a recent dive when the bow thruster CB kept popping.

17. Viewports: These should be cleaned with alcohol swabs or fresh water. There are specific acrylic cleaning products that can be used to clean harder-to-clean areas.

18. There was a flexible diesel fuel bag located within the aft MBT but this would routinely leak a few drops of fuel, leading observers at launch to think we were going to cause a massive fuel spill. After years of operating it empty, we finally removed it and the fill tube to the fuel pump and tank is now located under the Dive Panel. This tube is in need of a different access design (on the "To-Do" list).

19. The Dive Panel... is really not a good design and it needs to be ripped out and re-done in hard tubing. It continually has an air leak or multiple leaks as all of the lines are stressed when the panel is opened. While this design works well with the electrical circuits on the Diesel Panel, it has been hard on the air and hydraulic lines on the Dive Panel. Also, several of the gauges are no longer used and need to be removed. There is a small hydraulic leak somewhere behind the panel and I'm not sure that we have ever succeeded in fixing it.

20. Forward of the air bottles and aft of the pressure hull there is an oil-filled tank with a bladder. The oil in the bladder should be checked periodically.

21. The "green-to-dive lights" rarely work as advertised so you shouldn't rely on these. It would be an improvement to change these lights and make them reliable again.

22. The forward (movable) dive planes are a constant corrosion source and should be redesigned out of FRP some day. The need to put them to the folded position is rare and only at certain docks. So, it is suggested that the hinge design be eliminated which will make the design more simple.

23. The barometer below the diesel panel has been kicked too many times and needs to be replaced. The underwater telephone mic inside the sub has also been problematic and this unit is long out of production. The radio can be used with external speaker, which has been a good back-up.

24. Corrosion: if left in water for extended periods, you should use a "guppy" or similar sacrificial anode to help avoid corrosion. Hull corrosion should be dealt with promptly to avoid hull material loss. The pressure hull is 10 mm thick A43 steel, and corrosion pits over 3 mm deep should be welded. Exterior stainless steel parts should be painted, too (a little known fact).

Diving Instructions for S101

Most important: Follow the checklist!

Diving S101 is a bit of a balancing act--finding just the right amount of VBT water that will allow a descent without sending it down too fast (where you risk contacting bottom). At one time, there were only two vent valves: one aft of the forward MBT and another forward of the aft MBT. This configuration drove the need to dive when at standstill and having the sub perfectly level to let all of the MBT air to vent. More frequently, we would see one end drop and the other MBT would trap air, causing us to start the process over. Now, there is a second vent at the rear of the aft MBT, so the sub effectively vents all MBT air with the nose in a downward position and can do so while underway.

To start the dive process, the first step is to get the sub [interior air] vented (if the diesel has recently been used). This can take up to hour with the interior air hose (connected to the fan located just forward of the air compressor) sitting on top of the conn tower. Sometimes we would use the electric motor on the surface to avoid the diesel fumes and venting issue. Second step: run the checklist to set the sub into a dive configuration. Third step: open the VBT water intake valve. As a rule, we never take our hand off the handle when using the VBT water intake valve as a mistake here could flood the sub. It is a "hit-or-miss" effort to gauge the amount of water to put into the VBT to dive. It depends on two factors: fresh or salt water and the weight of the crew. Typically, in salt water we fill the VBT two thirds full and one third full for fresh water until we can make adjustments. When the VBT tank is filled to the estimated dive level, let the surface boat know that the dive is commencing, put the nose slightly downward (using the trim weight) and press the "MBT Vent" button and hold it in until the sound of air escaping stops. If the sub is too light, the top of the conn tower will likely still be on the surface and the sub won't descend until more water is added to the VBT. If too heavy, the sub will already be descending quickly and air should be added equally to both MBTs until the descent slows or stops. Be ready to vent the air again (nose down!) as the introduction of air into the MBTs can quickly change a slow descent into a fast ascent. If the sub is descending slowly, run the VBT High Pressure (HP) pump continuously until the sub comes to level off. Frequently, one of these actions causes the inverse action: too much VBT HP pump draws the water in the VBT too low and the sub starts to rise (ascend). Then, adding VBT water causes the sub to level off but then it starts to descend again... Once you have found level and want to change depth, it is recommended that you use the trim weight to change bow pitch to the desired new altitude and drive the sub to that new altitude. Then, you can make minor adjustments to the trim to stay at level.

It is always a good plan to avoid contact with the bottom, but this can be challenging if diving in shallow water (less than 40 feet), as there may not be enough time to slow the descent. This is a good exercise to practice as landing in mud can quickly foul visibility in addition to causing a large surface tension problem, otherwise known as getting stuck.

The aft rudder is quite small for this heavy a vessel and proves to be almost useless at slow speed. The same applies to the dive planes. So, we frequently used the bow thrusters for all slow-speed turns and the trim weight to make attitude adjustments.

All lights, except for the mast light, are designed to operate in (cool) water only. If the forward bow light is being used during surface operation, it has a low power setting and the red/blue cover should be removed.

When it is time to end the dive and surface, always contact the surface boat for an "All Clear" to surface. The smoothest way to surface is to pump out some water from the VBT until the sub just starts to ascend. Putting air into the MBTs will usually result in a fast ride to the surface and should be avoided if possible. If dead reckoning doesn't work to establish the place where the sub will surface, you can try to "blow bubbles" by putting air in the MBTs and holding the VBT Vent valve button open at the same time. When at the surface, gently actuate the Internal Air switch to release any internal pressure (this can also be done using the internal Over-pressure valve). Then, add air to the MBTs until it begins to escape from the bottom of the MBTs. Once on the surface, the VBT bilge pumps can be used to empty the VBT, which are much quicker than the HP pump.

A few notes about the gas meter and atmospheric monitoring: You can normally run the sub underwater for about an hour before needing to turn on the CO2 scrubber. It is normally not required to bleed in O2 for several hours of underwater time. The gas monitor is at factory settings, which is very conservative, so it is not uncommon to get a CO2 alarm early into a dive. The first alarm can be cancelled but the second (final) alarm cannot be cancelled. It is recommended that the gas meter be set up properly with appropriate submarine alarm thresholds if any extended underwater time is anticipated. If the CO2 alarm activates and the scrubber is loaded and run, and the CO2 level doesn't drop, the scrubber material is probably old and expired so best end the dive and go home until new scrubber material is loaded.

To bleed in oxygen, we recommend you use the aircraft-style "day bottles" which are easily changed out and filled at an FAA repair station. The external O2 bottles are considered emergency use only and are more difficult to fill. There are two methods used to fill the external O2 bottles: use a Haskell O2 pump to charge them in place or remove the conn tower fairing, the mid-fairing, and then both bottles can be removed and filled remotely.

The sub is designed to have four independent means to surface in case of emergency:

1) put the dive planes in the up position, trim weight all the way aft, and max power to the motor and drive it up,

2) pump out the internal VBT using the high pressure pump,

3) push compressed air into both the forward and aft MBTs,

4) release the keel weight (using the ratchet under the conn tower seat).

Normal ascents are performed using method 2) although we have used 3) when stuck in some mud on bottom on one occasion. This resulted in a rapid, uncontrolled ascent to the surface and a "bounce" back down to 30 feet, so it is not recommended unless necessary. We have never tried 1) or 4). Finally, should none of these options work (very unlikely), the sub is designed to remain underwater for 72 hours. Extra Dive Sorb is stowed near the diesel and the O2 bottles are designed to carry sufficient oxygen for several days for two people. In addition to the underwater telephone, the back fairing of the conn tower is filled with foam and is tied to the sub with 500 feet of stainless steel wire cord. Two bolts can be loosened from inside the conn tower (loosen--don't remove the bolts!) to release the fairing.

Sonar operation: The good news is that we rarely had the need to operate the (obstacle avoidance) sonar as we would go quite slow in poor visibility conditions and just follow bottom. The bad news: we rarely were able to get a good picture of what was ahead of us when we did use the sonar. After extensive troubleshooting (including returning the unit to the factory) we discovered two things about the sonar unit: 1) it is installed facing backwards (installation instructions were not clear about this) and it won't be easy to turn it 180 degrees. However, the unit can be controlled (through the settings menu) to look backwards, so it will function in this position, and 2) there appears to be some interference in the line that causes the unit to suddenly not work at all. The electrical data lines are shared with the echo sounder outside the pressure hull and this could be the source of the problem. So, for the time being, we have simply elected not to use sonar.

Surface running: With the diesel on, it is quite loud inside and difficult to hear, hence aircraft-style headphones. These are tied in to the VHF radio and a comm box if talking to another passenger. If seas are anything but absolutely calm, run with the hatch closed noting that the air intake valve must be open. This valve has a float which closes the valve should the intake be underwater for any period of time. Too many subs have been lost due to swamping while on the surface to risk running with the hatch open.

When starting the diesel, always verify that cooling water is exiting with the exhaust. If not, check valve settings again to ensure cooling water is getting to the diesel. It is important to do this while the diesel is warming up and before it overheats. We frequently check the cooling water exhaust (and diesel temperature gauge) every ten minutes or so during diesel operation and instruct any chase boat to do the same. We have also found the internal diesel tank quantity indicator to be problematic, and suspect it has something to do with the grounding of the gauge (all electronics go through a "floating" ground, which is not what some gauges are used to seeing). So, always know the true quantity of diesel tank before starting out. It involves some crawling around in the back with a flashlight but better to do it when cold than when the diesel has been running for a while.

Subs can also be prone to what is known in the Navy as an "uncontrolled departure from the surface". This has happened to us (once) while trying to attain maximum speed on the surface. The sub was rolling slightly with the swells on Lake Washington, which caused it to point downward and it simply kept going down (to maybe 10 feet below the surface). While alarming, this was not a dangerous situation as the diesel exhaust was still venting out and the float valve for the air intake closed automatically. The biggest danger here would be to continue running the diesel (above idle) and using up the oxygen within the sub, or shutting down the diesel and risk water flooding the diesel engine. It all happened within a few seconds and I threw the diesel to idle and we were back on the surface by the time I realized what had even happened.

We starting doing our surface running with two people but found the forward station to be boring and unnecessary. It became much easier to have one pilot operate the sub to the dive location and then transfer a second person on board. And, with the VHF radio, we could always check in with the chase boat to ensure everything was OK. We have never operated the sub underwater with a single pilot--there is simply too much to do and watch.

Underwater running: Due to reasons I have forgotten (something to do with the electronics), the electric motor controller was set to a maximum of (roughly) half speed where it remains today. We had always intended to correct this with new electronics in the joystick boxes, but it never became a problem. We always had plenty of power to spare at full throttle and rarely even approached full throttle speed. And, going from zero to full throttle does cause the sub to rotate a bit, which can be a bit un-nerving. Going from diesel to electric motor requires the diesel throttle (and transmission) to be at neutral. There is an interlock that prevents electric motor operation if the diesel throttle is in any other position. There are also two control switches for the electric motor, one on each joystick box. If the forward switch is "ON" the forward position has motor control and vice versa for the conn station joystick if this switch is "ON". So, it is not uncommon to switch to electric motor only to find it doesn't appear to work. Check the diesel throttle position first and then the control switches--usually one of these is the cause.

Launching the sub: Follow the "Pre-Launch Checklist"! Since this checklist was written, I purchased a new trailer that could launch the sub at a boat ramp. Due to the weight of the sub, it is essential to use an all-wheel-drive truck. Prior to the new trailer, we used a travel lift and put one sling just under the forward viewport and the aft sling right on the hull (split) seem. This was pretty simple going in the water but difficult to place going out. I have no idea how best to use a travel lift with the new trailer, as the slings would get pinned between the keel and the trailer. There may not ever be a need to do this anyway. One critical note when launching that is not on the checklist: the rear diagonal braces must be removed before launch or they will contact the lower (fixed) dive planes.

Operating areas: In US waters, the sub is considered a boat of 32 feet and must conform to all boating standards for this size. This means that flares and horn are required, as well as at least two life preservers, bow and center lights, and fire extinguisher. You should check local requirements for 32-foot long boats to ensure that all requirements are met. The Coast Guard rarely gets involved with submarine operations, although I usually try to notify them when operating in a new area. Better still, find the local Harbor Patrol and make contact with them. Once submerged, there are no rules for un-classed submarines, other than the fallback rule that they can stop anyone, anytime that constitutes a safety hazard. So, these have always been good phone calls to make before dive day. Be prepared to explain that you have a recreational, un-classed sub and you are doing training, testing equipment, or are just going out to do "ops checks", but do not say that you are giving rides to friends or looking for wrecks as this simply invites a long list of other questions. Be ready to be stopped at all times by Coast Guard or Harbor Patrol officials. If you are friendly and cooperative with them, they usually let you go on your way without trouble. Remember, most of these officials have no experience with private submarines and have to research rule books, etc. just to see what they are supposed to do. I usually start conversations with officials the day before dive day with "Hi, my name is XXXX and I own a submarine that we are planning on diving tomorrow in XXX area, and I want to make sure that everyone there is OK with our plans... and do you have any special concerns that we need to know about?"

Safety: We normally select dive spots by bottom condition/visibility and potential obstacles. The biggest safety concern with small submarines is 1) entanglement and 2) collision with other watercraft when diving/surfacing when the sub is just below the surface. This is just my opinion and probably not fact. For interest only, I think number 3) is breathing air condition (CO2, O2 and H2) and number 4) battery or electrical fire inside the sub. At the first sign of any trouble, the natural pilot reaction should be to throw the MBT air valves up (to fill MBT tanks). This will result in the fastest rise to the surface. In almost any emergency, this should be step #1 and can quickly be negated should it be a false alarm. People also ask me if there is option number five (to the four ways to surface in emergency) to open the hatch and swim out. This is not a practical option. The hatch won't open underwater until pressure is equalized, meaning that the sub is completely flooded. It is not known what would happen when the batteries flood and short (and gas?) and it is not something I would consider unless all other options were exhausted, including waiting on bottom for help. There are two "Spare Air" mini-tanks strapped to the rudder rod which could be used in such a situation, but their real purpose was to provide emergency air to crew in case of fire.

And no, it doesn't carry torpedoes... J

Information On Condition

Moisture has gotten into the Perkins Engine which runs the generator.

The engine will need to be taken out of the sub to be repaired.

The sub will need to be split for this to happen.

The sub can be unbolted, best if done indoors, using A frames or any crane.

The sub would have to be well supported.

Some systems would have to be disconnected, However, this would be a great chance to update anything that may need to be updated. Things can be changed out or updated much easier with it open.

The sub will need a new gasket.

The sub used to only be able to be moved by crane & flat bed trailer the last thirty years.

Seller has a simple wooden base for it.

Now sub is easily moveable.

Working brakes on all axles.

The sub needs both the engine & the generator to operate the high pressure pump that recharges the five air bottles the sub uses to fill two VBT's (Variable Ballast Tanks), & the MBT (Main Ballast Tank).

There is also an emergency bottle that can be used to charge the sub.

The air pressure in the bottles are essential to raising the sub or helping it control boyancy.

Since the sub has many redunancies, there are at least two ways to recharge this particular system. One is by taking the bottles out & have them filled at a dive shop, then reinstalling them. The second is to run the engine which powers the generator that supplys the electricity to the high pressure air pump which is connected inline.

We just learned that the engine needs to come out of the sub at the recent water trial 3/2018.

There are three systems in this system, two pair & a single.

There is a single emergency bottle that can be removed while the sub is in the water & filled at a dive shop or where there is a high pressure pump.

Seller only has one back up bottle & it is in the sub.

More bottles can be purchased & filled for standby where the sub can be used indefinatly.

The emegency bottle charges the two other systems or can be used by its' self.

There are two 3500 pound capacity systems with two bottles each.

The emgerency is approx. 2800 pound capacity.

We believe there is about 2600 pounds to use on the subs next dive or dives.

The sub is dive ready at this point. The system just can not charge using the engine. The bottles would have to come out to be recharged, or use only what the emergency bottle can hold or charge with.

The air bottles will need to come out of the sub each time or the sub will have to be charged one bottle at a time, then dispensed equally into the other pairs till full.

Only one can come out easily while in the water. The other four need to be taken out while the sub is on the trailer. I would recommend having multiple sets of bottles in the future.

Seller is prepared to dive the sub.

There are two, F16 style, electric controlers. One is aft & there is one fwd.

Currently one of the redundant, electric controlers is not functioning. Needs to be tested, replaced, looked at, or repaired.

We found the underwater telephone microphone is not working.

The speaker works, however, to use the redundant mic, it would need to be replaced or repaired.

Trailer is in great conditon. Pulling it would require at least a 250 or 2500, size truck engine, plus four wheel drive to haul around & launch.

It is going to way close to sixteen thousand pounds, a little less.

Recommend a steep angle ramp, low angle ramps get the truck wet.

Launches like any boat.

Easy to control.

Some systems could be updated, but can dive now.

Some of the redundant gauges are not working.

There is a chip in the front view port. Seller bought the sub like this. It has been polished.

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While we attempt to ensure display of current and accurate data, this advertisement may not reflect the most recent condition of boat and may reflect occasional data entry errors. Information related to boat condition, use, engine hours, storage and maintenance can be difficult to verify (even in person), therefore our company has received and depended on material statements from vessel owner regarding these items. We encourage every buyer to independently hire an accredited marine surveyor to thoroughly inspect any boat prior to purchase. All inventory listed is subject to availability and prior sale. Price does not include transportation, taxes and other applicable charges. Photographs may be representative only and may vary somewhat from the actual items offered for sale.

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