Before you begin, remember to place the screen side on a smooth surface (I got my screen scratched while opening it on a rough table (Ouch!)

Using plastic opening tools and a spudger, look for either the micro SD cover or the SIM cover and open it. You will be able to identify a tiny little gap just enough for the plastic opening tool (wedge) to go through

Go around the device with the tool gently. Your ears will be able to tell when the plastic catch detach itself from the main body by listening for "clicks"

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Here's some photos that I have missed out. My apologies to the chaps on the comments section below for being a little late for my reply :)

Taking out the digitizer was actually an easy feat. Preferably, use a heating element to quicken the opening process. Take note, it is glued around the sides

Now if you are lacking an iOpener tool from iFixit or a heat gun, you can improvise! Just fill a huge water proof plastic bag with boiling hot water; rest it on top of the screen for 2 minutes. [Credit goes to Felix Last for his advice]

My first attempt was without using a heating element (Big Mistake!), I used my finger nail to try to make an opening. Unless you have an already damaged screen, I would avoid doing so.

Shift the bag slightly to reveal the weakest point on the touch panel (usually at the middle) and with the help of a spudger, attempt to slot in gently for an opening. Just like the previous steps, go around it gently and once all the glue edges are up, lightly lift it up

Take note of the position of the home button

Last I check on ''this site'', there are good load of shipments available for order from China

Just finished our first Tab 3 digitizer replacement. After removing back plate and battery, the digitizer wasn't too difficult to remove except the extra strong adhesive compared to iPads. With the iFixit bag or a nice professional heat gun (my preferred method) the screen comes off pretty easily in one piece and you just have to align it properly when replacing so there are no issues reassembling the frame and back.

I replaced the Micro USB connector on the main board but in the process the heat and a little solder got across the one of the white capacitors closest to the Micro USB connector. While cleaning the part it sprung out of my spring loaded twezzers never to be found again. Does anyone know the value of the smd ceramic caps if that is what they are? none of them appear to be labeled.

I too, lost a couple of components (R/L/C ?) when I replaced the USB connector. They are part of the WiFi antenna circuit. I know that because the reception is terrible/non-existent over 20 ft away. Any chance you may know the circuit or component values? They are the left-most components on the board when looking at the USB connector. You can see a trace coming from the shielded IC area, and a trace to a clip on the bottom-left of the board.

Ifixit! I Replaced the charging port on my galaxy tab 3 but in the process i managed to lose the 2 capacitors directly above the micro usb connector. Now the unit turns on but doesn't get past the initial "Galaxy Tab 3" screen. just restarts over and over. Can i source these capacitors somewhere or is there another alternative to fix it? (The small black and white capacitors)

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The battery reveals to be a 3.7 V, 4000 mAh type. Manufactured by Samsung SDI Vietnam

Display Controller Board. The LCD panel ID: LTN070NL01 registered on Samsung's Product Selection Guide . It seems that the entire LCD is replaceable (without the LRX4211 controller chip); according to this site, they do have stock for it.

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20 Comments

Thanks for this guide! There's not much information nor replacement parts out there for this one yet. Would you be so kind and add a guide on how to replace the digitizer of the Tab 3? Thank you very much in advance.

I too am unable to find any documentation on the digitizer replacement for the Tab 3. This type guide is exactly what I need for a job like that. If you could make a guide on how to perform the replacement, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of your time and effort into developing such detailed and informative guides.

It worked out well ;) Maybe a blow dryer or heat gun would have been a good idea to avoid that glue remains stuck on the edges, but I was able to scrub most of it off using benzine. Lacking a plastic opening tool I used both a plastic card and a screwdriver, which was okay. The screw driver damaged the case a little which is not a problem for me. Another tip I'd like to give to others finding this is to remember the position of the home button. I think I put it back the wrong way around and it's not working very well now. Not too big an issue for me, though, either. Thanks for making this post, it was veeeery helpful!

I agree it looks sturdy, but nothing my 6 year old can't break! I can see that part of the plastic and metal connector inside the port is missing, so I'm pretty sure this is the problem. I have a close up photo of it, if that is of any interest to you. Thank you for your help.

I have the same problem - 6 y old decided it needed charging, stuck the plug in upside down or at a bad angle - either way, it wouldn't go in so she pushed harder. now the port will charge, but i have to place it just so, or it loses connectivity. I'd like to try and replace it myself, but i don't know what part to order. from the images above in step 8 pic#3 looks like it has 11 or 12 solder contacts on the rear. is this correct? the standard is supposed to be 5 pins wherever i look...