THIS is a tale of two cities and one ship. Bruges and Amsterdam, 150 miles apart, are inextricably linked by their waterways, their culture and their food. Yet they are so very different too.

Bruges rests comfortably in its past. It is a self-contained, small, perhaps even quaint city.

Amsterdam on the other hand is liberal, modern and multi-cultural.

The contrast between cities could not have been clearer, having gone to sleep near one and woken up the next morning slap bang in the centre of the other, with barely a single sensation of having moved.

We slept well in our lovely cabin, as comfortable as any hotel, only this one was on the move. P&O Cruises' Oriana makes for a rather large hotel, with more than 1,800 passengers (not least operatic star Katherine Jenkins) on this four-night cruise from Southampton to these two highlights of the Low Countries.

We docked at dawn in Zeebrugge, our first port of call after an overnight sail. From there we took the 20-minute coach ride into Bruges. We then have the whole day to explore this delightful Belgian city's canals, galleries and shops, seemingly every other one offering 'the best chocolate in Belgium".

This 13th century old town is made for walking and has an abundance of museums.

One, St-Jans, built in the restored chapel of an old hospital, has a rather gruesome exhibition dedicated to the history of hospitals, including an alarming array of torturous looking implements.

Another must is a visit to the Kantcentrum lace museum.

Admire the intricate workmanship that goes into the country's finest export by watching a group of very patient women demonstrate their skills.

It is also worth climbing the 5th-century Belfort bell tower for a magnificent view of ancient rooftops and serene waterways.

After a day full of sightseeing, duck into one of the basement bars and sample unusual flavours of beer (cherry flavour, anyone?).

Belfort bell tower in Bruges [CAMERA PRESS]

Disembarking in Amsterdam the next morning (despite her size, Oriana moored only yards from the central rail station) we decide to change our way of getting around.

Just across the road we spot Starbikes where we hire those typical, tall, black Dutch bicycles with comfy seats for only ?7 for the day. They prove to be the perfect way to explore a city that is built to accommodate cyclists and which takes just 20 minutes to cross on two wheels.

We peddle down to the Rijksmuseum (recently restored, re-opened and home to Dutch masters including Rembrandt's The Night Watch and a classic Van Gogh self portrait) and the Van Gogh gallery next door, in the south of the city.

The bikes allow us to stop when anything catches our eye. Highlights include the fl ower and fi sh markets, sculpture- fi lled parks and the shops and cafes along Leidseplein.

In fact, we like the bikes so much, we buy them, or new ones just like them, for only ?125 each, and pedal them up to the ship, wheeling them to our balcony.

At breakfast the ship's restaurant manager asks: 'You're the ones who brought the bikes on board last night, aren't you?" In one sentence, he sums up everything about cruise ships. They might be huge but it's like a village on the high seas.

Everyone knows everything. So when something a little out of the ordinary happens, word gets around fast. And it is rather charming.

Our cabin is a serene haven with its large double bed, walk-in shower, small lounge area and a covered balcony that, even when the weather is filthy, is worth spending time on.

It is also close enough to the pool deck for us to scramble out there and jump into the steaming Jacuzzi in the force six winds that sweep over the ship as we head back to Southampton.

The food also lures us from our temporary home. It seems to be the constant theme of any cruise.

One regular tells me that she packs two wardrobes for the longer trips. One of them slightly larger because of the weight she puts on.

Grand Palace in Bruges [ALAMY]

Breakfast, lunch and dinner for all tastes are included in the fare but there are also 24-hour buffets, room service and afternoon teas.

Oriana also offers two restaurants in which you pay a supplement, Sorrento, an upmarket Italian, and celebrity chef Marco Pierre White's Ocean Grill. This is the most elegant dining room on board, where we have a magnifi cent dinner of deep fried, soft shell blue crab and Thai fish cakes to start, and then share a chateaubriand with Madeira jus that is out of this world.

With a supplement of only £18, and a great wine list at duty free prices, it's excellent. After dinner you could embark on a bar crawl as there are six to choose from and a nightclub called Harlequins.

We also giggle through a Queen tribute act in the Pacifi c Show Lounge, full of surprising costume changes that include mini-skirted wedding dresses and military uniforms that might have made Freddie Mercury blush.

There is also an undoubted headline act. Armed Forces sweetheart Katherine Jenkins appears regularly on P&O Cruises. On our trip her 45-minute set list features all her classical crossover favourites. She must have rarely sung to a more ideal audience, and the adulation flowed both ways.