agreed, I chose this design due to it's success rate in the Everglades challenge ( a US type raid).

7 months due to the fact I'm retired and now have the time, the main hull is stitch & glue.[url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/core%20sound%20build/IMGP4279_resize.jpg.html][/url][/url]

I've found some info on the rig - very interesting! Do you like it? Do you think it is possible to build as a SS&G?

Those of you that have built SS&G versions of these boats - how did you modify the plans to allow one step gluing full-size panels? I would like to avoid the scarf in the middle of the panel. I believe one way is to make a scarfed full-size pattern and use that as a guide for the gluing of the full length strips. Any another way to do it?

'' I've found some info on the rig - very interesting! Do you like it? Do you think it is possible to build as a SS&G? ''

I think it's possible but far more labor intensive in SS&G.

Last fall at the "Sail Oklahoma" event I was fortunate to meet with the boats designer, Graham Byrnes, who is a very experienced sailor, long story short he sailed my boat (I was passenger) and to say I was impressed would be a gross understatement. He had the boat hauling butt and even planing downwind . After this he pointed out several things I could do/change to improve the whole package, things I didn't see until I was shown. So I'm now doing these improvements. and looking forward to warmer day's to get out and learn more about the boat.

As to gluing full size panels, I made templates from real cheap plywood,to verify diamentions, then simply traced them onto painters paper on my 16' x 2' work bench, covered that with clear plastic, then glued up the individual strips staggering the scarfs as I went (panels were made oversize to allow for errors) then after glue up traced the templates back to the panel and cut to size. I hope that all makes sense to you. ?

All strips are full-length so far. Slowly grown spruce is cheap in Sweden .

I'm really impressed by the plans and the instruction, great work! Would it be possible to provide a table of offsets togehter with drawing QA2? This would save ss&g builders a lot of head-scratching and it wouldnt be necessary to first do plywood pattern...

'' All strips are full-length so far. Slowly grown spruce is cheap in Sweden''

I'd like to make some birdsmouth paddle shaft's and mast's using spruce.[url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/masts%20booms%20and%20paddle%20shafts/generalstuff12_resize-1.jpg.html][/url][/url][url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/masts%20booms%20and%20paddle%20shafts/Totosailing006.jpg.html][/url][/url]

I really do envy you with that spruce. At least where I am Western Red Cedar is readily available, and a lot less expensive than marine ply,

Iv'e done a few of Matts boats, the Wye 13-6, [url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/Wye%2013-6%20build%20picture%20history/wye13-6inprogress136-1.jpg.html][/url][/url]laker 13,[url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/2010%20Laker%2012%20build/totolaker12andoutriggersprogress4-1.jpg.html][/url][/url]TV 29-15 [url][URL=http://s469.photobucket.com/user/makenmend/media/TV%2015-29/Toto3_resize.jpg.html][/url][/url], the Tri isn't one of his designs and I don't want to offend him by listing competetive Info here.

I will say that the outrigger which clamp onto the gunnels do work on Matts boats as well.