Thanks p_d!I had just been reading that thread where you posted this originally but wasn't sure how to quote you in a new thread!.... I suppose I could have posted the link but its a bit awkward on the phone

As far as I'm concerned, just accessing the Interweb on a fone is pretty impressive, let alone making a post !!

FYI, When I'm on (any) forum and want to quote in a different thread, I find it easiest to first hit the "Quote" button and from the window that then appears copy the whole text, and then go to the new thread and paste that text into the Quick reply // New reply window......

fantastic thread - so pleased I came across it. Here are my additions - derived from a recent reno-we have downlights in the eaves at the back of our house - they are fantasitc - both for entertaining and so much better than flood/spot lights-powerpoint near slow-combustion woodheater for fan forced function-check height of tiling in bathroom - if you are not tiling to the ceiling, make sure it will accommodate the vertical rail of a hand-held shower-I used a 'drop-in' style laundry tub - into a long run of bench top (same laminate as kitchen) for a streamlined look-tall cupboard in laundry minus shelves to take vaccum claener, ironing board & brooms-careful where dishwasher is positioned - you don't want to have to close the dishwasher to open the cupboard that clean dishes go in.cheersPG

Brilliant list! OutstandingHow about this one, to check that venting from exhausts in bathrooms and kitchen goes outside, not to roofs space. You cannot vent to roof space if you have sarking under your tiles apparently, so best to look out for that one.

Mmmm, we opted to get an exhaust fan in our laundry and at the time our electrical consultant said it would only be ventilated into the roof space. I'm assuming all our other exhaust fans to bathrooms ventilate externally.

Our roof has sarking. If it's a BASIX requirement, why would our Builder not point that out I wonder?

Does anyone know the repurcussions of having a laundry exhaust ventilate into the roof cavity with sarking?

My husband wants to install some light in the roof so that in future, if he or anyone else needs to go into the roof all he has to do is turn the light switch on....just thought that might come in handy

My husband wants to install some light in the roof so that in future, if he or anyone else needs to go into the roof all he has to do is turn the light switch on....just thought that might come in handy

Our builder has done this. Not sure if its standard, but I cant imagine our builder doing it our of the goodness of his heart.Its placed just at the manhole so as you enter roof cavity you can turn on light I think its a great idea

^ This topic rings a bell. I'm not sure but I might have already written about lights in the roof space, can't remember, but anyway - I think if (for example) you have a central heating unit in your roofspace, it is standard practice for the builder to put a light up there so the unit can be serviced or maintained if need be. The light switch will usually be within easy reach once through the manhole.

If there is nothing in the roofspace that would otherwise warrant the installation of a light, it still shouldn't be too difficult to get one installed.

I think if (for example) you have a central heating unit in your roofspace, it is standard practice for the builder to put a light up there so the unit can be serviced or maintained if need be. The light switch will usually be within easy reach once through the manhole.

We (or should I say DH) have to get into the roof to get to the lightswitch to turn it on. He's planning on putting a series of lights in the roof. Was thinking of a row of party type lights.

We're having a cooling unit installed in the roof, ( cos we're building a double storey) & believe me, our builder did not volunteer to put up a light up there...mind you, we're building with a big project home builder, so for the guys that have it free of charge all I can say you have very generous builders indeed!

My two penneth worth1. Don't believe yr budiler if he tells you can't have ducted heating and cooling coz you are not going for a pitched roof (not totally flat either) - our neighbours building with a different company have exactly same roof line and are having ducted heating/cooling as standard. Hmmm2. The windows - we just assumed a window was a window - the plans didn't show overall dimensions -ie. total height and height from floor. It was only when they went in we realised our mistake. We have double narrow windows in the front bedroom, the bottom one to is too low and top one too high for me to see out of!! Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Share

(ie. I am a shorty). Then we have another picture window in the master bedroom where I wanted to put a dressing table but it's only 300mm off the floor level - I wasn't expecting that?

3. Height of overhead kitchen units - I caught this one actually coz I'm a shorty and had problems with overhead cabinets before - it wasn't the cabinets I was worried about but the microwave - I made sure the microwave was mounted at a height I could actually use.

I dont know if this was mentioned before but there are couple of tips to consider when building.

*Size of pot draws... builder is offering 3 sets of pot draws, but two of them are so skinny that you can't fit any thing in them (one is oversized)*Get builder to put in junction boxes around the outside of the house. Once you have moved in, you can work out you outdoor lighting requirements..*placement of heating/colling vents. You dont want them directly under your head when your in bed.

1. make sure that if 3phase air-con in the price that this includes a 3 phase motor, not just '3 phase wiring'

2. ask for 2 rolled coats of paint on the inside. Otherwise some painters might spray the first coat and roll the second. This can sometimes result in walls that scratch easily, streaked and over spray on window frames.

3. consider getting you flooring laid as part of the builders contract so that it is covered by builders insurance.

June 2010: Land
Aug Tender + Deposit for Villina 41
Dec DA in
Feb DA out
Mar Construction Cert
May Slab
June Frameviewtopic.php?f=31&t=45643

add sliding cavity door to ensuite so our room didnt get full of steam or clothes either in the WIRput in a door in the hallway between the front and back of house to shut it off

what I want to be able to do this time is...

somehow have ALL switches together minus the fridge that can be switched off everytime you leave the house (but not a must for a 1hr trip)..yes a pain with clocks etc but its such a pain when we go away and have to pull everything out to turn off.

ask your builders electrical contractor to put those things you want to leave ON using one circuit on one particular circuit breaker. Everything else that you want to be able to turn off on the other circuit. Get him to do a drawing so you know what is on what circuit. That way, when it's time to leave for the holiday, just flip off those breakers in the meter box and the fridge and clocks can stay on, everything else is off!

The other thing we did 8yrs ago was get the Ind build inspector on the final visit. We pretended he was thru the bank and they wouldnt release funds until everything was fixed prior to handover..it worked.AVJ went and fixed the whole list before we gave them the final cheque. We didnt need anything fixed after that even 8yrs later nothing...best thing ever. Once you pay they ignore your calls etc...a PITA!!!

Last edited by suziz3 on Jun 02, 2011 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.