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Description

I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.

You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.

Location

This is the large left-facing corner under the huge roof to the right of the large arch.

9 Comments

It would be very possible to lead this route on gear, and would be quite fun to do so. I'd bring a set of nuts with a few extra mid sized, and a single set of cams up to maybe a #2 C4. You wouldn't use that many, but I think that's what I noticed in the size range.
May 30, 2015

I've been lead climbing for just two weeks now and moved off of The Appendage and Layer Cakes (some 5.7s and 5.8s)to do this route - which was a lot of fun. I found this to be a great "next route" after spending a lot of time practicing clipping on Appendage's shorter routes. Well worth the approach and a good route for novice lead climbers with some experience.
May 4, 2012

It seems like this is a little height dependent to be a 5.7/8. I was always able to reach the holds and clip the bolts, but my wife is 5'5", and had to do some technical face moves to get past some parts. Overall, I feel like it's a great climb, with a lot of fun movement on it.
Jul 2, 2011