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Aug 16, 2010

Starting a new life in Singapore

I'm not dead yet... neither is this blog!

Life's been pretty busy lately - as if a daughter graduating and departing for her gap year doing community service in Panama wasn't enough, we have also decided to pack up camp in London after 11 wonderful years in this amazing city... which meant lots of work and big tears all around, but also exciting times ahead!

It's exactly a week ago that we touched down in our new home, Singapore, but we haven't found a place to live yet, so the weeks with all but random opportunities of connecting to the internet, but more importantly, the months without kitchen, recipe books, notebook, sharp knives, etc are not yet over. What's more, I ended my days in London by auctioning off pretty much all my food stuff (in excess of 150 different spices and other specialties) to my deserving and grateful friends under the influence of copious amounts of bubbly, so it'll take me a while until I have stocked up again. The very positive flipside is that I'll get to explore all the wonderful markets, food halls and specialty shops that Singapore has to offer, plus, it forced me to throw away a few items in my cupboards that to my horror had been well past their best-by date.

Starting from scratch should be fun and exciting, and as soon as I have sorted out the bare necessities (school & transport for the boys, flat, telephone, internet connection, etc), i will have time to devote to this blog again... and I hope it'll receive a bit of facelift in due course and a new slant in terms of content as well, seeing all the wonderful experiences and travelling to be had on my doorstep.

First impressions of Singapore?I'd be lying if I said it was plain sailing. I've had my ups and downs, to put it mildly, a bit more accurately, it was an emotional roller coaster. Nothing to do with the place itself, although perhaps with the temporary accommodation we're in: mild pneumonia due to the indomitable air conditioning, restless nights due to the noise levels (also attributable to the AC), the lack of equipment in a kitchen measuring 2 square meters with a fridge that likes to compete with the AC in the "Orchard Park Suites has got really annoying sounds" competition (husband slapping it in hope of silencing it as I type), resorting to the inhouse launderette (@ probably 55C and 80% humidity) for your family's laundry needs, et cetera, et cetera.

And then the fact that everything is a struggle. If you're not used to living in an equatorial climate and don't know the city at all, even going out to find the bare essentials can be a chore. Add to that the fact that apart from your own adaptation process (climate, culture, mild anxiety attacks over not having a place to live or a school for the children), you have to cushion off your kids', then it becomes obvious that every excursion outside the perimeter of the hotel (may I add that I am ALONE with the kids, as husband is already putting his feet up in his high-powered job at a big local bank) is an effort beyond belief. And with all of that you always have it in the back of your head that this is NOT a vacation (under which circumstances you probably laugh many a situation off with a shrug and a funny picture for the photo album) and you wonder whether you will EVER get used to it and make your new life here work.

With the first comment from my 6-year old "why does everybody look so Chinese here?" and the second "I don't like Chinese food" (granted, this was due to a traumatising experience in a pan-Asian restaurant with his kindergarten group), the forgiveable response of a caring parent is pure panic. What have I done? What have I done to expose my children to a climate, a culture and food that they're not familiar with, why did I have to leave a big and reliable support network behind (and now struggle to even have a quiet meal due to lack of trusted babysitters), why did I give up my studies, my practice that was just starting to flourish, my beloved catering gigs, why, why, why???

Slowly, but surely I have some answers. Slowly, but surely, I feel that I have arrived. Little steps, but still: finding that the boys will be at a school that is wonderful not only in terms of facilities, but also has a lively and lovely community, surviving my first excursion alone with the kids (Jurong Bird Park) - meaning a full day OUTSIDE, not skipping from one climatised shopping mall to the next -, viewing some apartments and realising that for the budget we have, we can find a more than adequate space, even with a kitchen that is workable for a passionate cook, experiencing the locals as incredibly friendly and helpful people even if their language/accent is sometimes hard to understand, finding that no matter where you go, you can have wonderful food experiences even without much research, even in the areas most prone to host tourist trap after tourist trap...

and after a week I can now safely say "I'm loving it" and I am looking forward to a wonderful time here. I hope that I will be able to share some of my learning curve, some of my culinary and cultural experiences with you over time... I don't proclaim to be an expert in any way, it'll be the novice's perspective on all things Asian, but some of you might enjoy just that or laugh with me as I inevitably make a fool of myself...

Hey Johanna, what a surprise! SO glad it is beginning to feel like home. Although not entirely until you have a kitchen.

Love seeing your pics, as I haven't been to Singapore since the 70s, when I lived for a month in Raffles Hotel, when it was gloriously shabby, and the most wonderful place to be. Lots of changes since then ;)

I was thinking about you the other day, as I saw Jeanne for the first time in years ...

Hope it all goes really well - the children will settle, you will cook, you will find a babysitter and get those quiet moments you need ... and then you'll be able to explore all that Asian cuisine with your characteristic passion.

oh, i am sure it will in due time, joanne - how lovely that you met jeanne, yes, its been a long time, probabyl 3-4 years, right? how is the family? you know i met ilva a few months back and had a wonderful time, too, i love these blogging encounters, i hope i will meet many here as well.
i havent been at the raffles, but my former boss has invited me there the next time he comes over, for a proper singapore sling and bitching about the old days ;-))

Just saw your question on my blog - I don't know of any good high end Japanese restaurants but this site should give you a start: http://www.hungrygowhere.com/

I would also recommend the purchase of a Makansutra guide (nothing kinky - makan is Malay for eat) - I was introduced to it on my last visit to Singapore and is a very good way to get started with hawker centres and restaurants.

Oh, how I miss you, my dear friend!! I was one of the lucky recipients of those spices (already been putting then to good use :)) but I think I was deep in denial that night telling myself you weren't actually leaving permantly, otherwise there would have been a lot more weeping on your doorstep when we said goodbye. Missing the boys & Caro too - and wish I could be with you exploring the markets and restaurants. Promise we will come over in 2011 and can't wait to hear about your adventures in flat-hunting :) BIG HUG!!!

i'm a new arrival to your blog, just chanced upon it today - an already a fan! im a singporean, and i cant begin to express how beautiful this place i call home is.

I study in London, but return every summer to singapore. so, feel free to email me with questions/worries you have in singapore! ill try to answer them from a "London perspective" :)
(Hint: all singaporeans are self-professed foodies, and to really experience the truly amazing local food, you gotta ask a local)

Here's to your new chapter. As an expat with four country moves under my belt, I fully understand the myriad emotions you must be experiencing. And I also fully understand the motto "you are only as happy as your least happy child" in these new situations. It sounds like you are already making the crucial steps to a new community, especially through the school. I envy you and cheer you on. Please keep on posting about your experiences so we can share vicariously.

Hello Johanna, It was lovely to meet you in London while I was visiting my daughter Xochitl...she had baby Dexter last friday. I was thinking you just last night as I was making dinner, I was using one of your lovely spices you passed out to the lucky recipients, I was using the sal ahumada, love it. I wish you luck and all the best in your new life, your daughter will be fine in Panama. Felicidades en tu nuevo hogar.
Jeri Cota

Hey Johanna,
Next time when you're in London you should come to my restaurant, Gow's - a fantastic fish restaurant in the City.
Loved the scallop recipe and photo and hope you will find my blog equally interesting.http://fishfoodandlife.blogspot.com/
David

Welome to Southeast Asia, Johanna! I bet the local food will be a bit of a shock to the system but I hope you get to like it. I also hope you get to visit the rrst of yhe region, particularly Penang. Singapore's fine but the best food is in Malaysia ;) NB if you haven't already tried Hainanese chicken rice have a go - that might be one way to convert the 6yo to Chinese food!

I LOVE Asian food, never grow tired of it, no wonder, as there is sooo
much variety! I cant wait to explore all the restaurants go shopping at
the wet markets, do come cookery classes - it will inspire me no end!

I am sure we will have a most fantastic time in this wonderful corner of
the world - and I look forward to lots of travelling as well!

christine, I know, i will love the food and people have been incredibly friendly and welcoming all around... that makes a new start so much easier!

brilynn, katie, angelica, maya, kaitlin, thanks, I can't wait to get set up and running with the blog again!

joanna, how funny that you bumped into jeanne, i miss her a lot. i haven't been at the raffles, but i believe it is THE place to have a singapore sling ;-)

astrid, wie schon gesagt, I#m not dead yet ;-))

su-lin, i can't wait to explore them all!

kit, kalyn, it'll sure be interesting to see how i make asian food my own, a bit of a fusion sort of style, i guess, but i am going to take some classes as well to learn to cook proper asian meals!

christine, please keep your fingers crossed, seeing two more places this morning and then i want to make a decision fairly soon!

jeanne ;-((((( missing you more... i can't wait for you to come over, every time i see something worth while culinarily i think of you, so already mapping out trips and dinners and lunches and breakfasts and picnics on the islands etc - i hope we can skype soon!

meeta, not sure, it was definitely hard to give up london, support network, my patients, everything - but then, it was the excitement of traveling asia, the food, the climate that egged me on - and i haven't regretted it. it's also such an amazing thing for the kids and hopefully a healthier climate!

Lynda, that's reassuring... and you're so right about the child. luckily, they are really excited about it, especially the 6yr old - loving the school, the new friends, i think he has an adventurous spirit as well, to a certain extent, though the food adventure will have to wait a little...

zabeena, solange, thank you for your wishes, i hope i can confer some of our learnings here via the blog... it was great meeting you!

jerry, i heard, and he's such a cutie, too! i am gutted i can't be there for xochi at the moment, i normally provide a catering service to my friends in the first few weeks after birth to ensure they eat properly (and get some naturopathic advice)... shame i can't do it for xochi!

Wow what a move - so exciting! Can’t wait to start reading about new food in Singapore, your food is always interesting and really makes me think and/or cook! I’ve been dead quiet like you, doing a massive redesign and refocus on my blog and have moved from Blogspot to Wordpress. I’m now up and blogging again - hope to see you doing so soon too! :) xxx

What's a journey without some bumps and potholes, only to give you the strength of overcoming them? It's very exciting to see that things are looking good for you and I hope they continue to become better!

What's a journey without some bumps and potholes, only to give you the strength of overcoming them. It's very exciting to see that things are looking good for you and I hope they continue to become better!

Lucky you. What an adventure. Can't wait to hear all your experiences - not just food but certainly a lot of it. Not just what you create but also what you discover that they create.
Glad you're back and best of luck in your new home.
Janice - Ottawa, Canada

Dear Johanna, I have been reading your post from London with much interest and joy - now I really wish you all the best in Singapore. We have just moved to a new country as well after 10 wonderful years in the UK, so I totally understand the emotional roller-coaster. It sounds like you found a school, but just in case, this one is a really wonderful UWC in Singapore:http://uwcsea.uwc.org/

Hello! Welcome to Singapore. I've been reading your blog since I was in high school (I just graduated from university) and it's been great tracking your journey. I love all the recipes you have and you always make food look so wonderful...

Singapore is a riot if you're here for the first time. I imagine that would be compounded by the fact that you're not going to be leaving anytime soon. The heat, most of all, is so oppressive (everyone is so languid in the afternoon).

But the great thing about Singapore is its food. For better or worse, it still plays host to a great number of cuisines from around the world and acclimatization food-wise should be less of a problem since there will still be a lot of familiar foods around, and most food you're used to will probably still be available (though sometimes at a price).

Local food is daunting to tackle but I assure you you'll learn to love it. Everyone in Singapore has an opinion about food and they're not afraid to voice it. Another reader above has linked you to ieatishootipost, which is really great for local food and it will prove helpful as you try to help your kids get used to this place!

Meanwhile, here are also some others, written by fellow expats living in Singapore:

good luck with your new life in Singapore - sounds challenging and exciting!

I have a theory of moving to a new place that it is firstly exciting because it is all new, then horrible because it is all different and then the you settle into acceptance mode because this is the life you chose

The really only hard part for me would be leaving friends behind. I think what you are doing is an amazing, exciting adventure! We've done it once and so want to do it again! Looking forward to reading about your adventures. And visiting you one day. Maybe being in-laws ;-)

jamie, you're so right. i had the best support network anyone could ever wish for, i can just hope that i manage to build the same sort of trust and love with people here. definitely come visit, in-laws or not!

Hi Johanna, I used to read your blog very regularly, back in 2004/2005. Imagine my surprise when I saw your comment on ieatishootipost's blog, saying you had just moved to Singapore! A warm welcome to you & your family. Moving is definitely tough, but hope you will find Singapore the lovely island that I know it is! (I am living here too!) I'm leaving you my email in case you need any tips/advice on how to settle in. And yes, pl do get a copy of "There is No Carrot in Carrot Cake". Believe it or not, I wrote the book and it is such a coincidence to be re-connected in this random way! =)

I chanced on your blog quite a few years ago and have been reading it every now and then.

It's a HUGE surprise you have actually moved to Singapore! The world's really pretty small!

The language/accent that you are not used to is a result of mixing Chinese dialects, Malay, and Indian languages. It's pretty endearing after getting used to.

Nonetheless, I am pretty confident you enjoy the food here. You'll find food after every turn and in every corner. May take you a little more effort to suss out the gems, but they are worth the trouble!

I've been there! I read your blog occassionaly and noticed you moved to Singapore. I lived there when I was young and my dad will tell you "She cried all the way, and after 3 years, she cried all the way home!" you will love it! as will your kids!

I really sympathise with your feelings; I've moved so many times to rather different cultures (never with kids but also never with an income ;P) and it's hard work but I look forward to future posts - I just came across your blog and I'm really enjoying it!

aha, that's where you are. I know the Orchard Park Suites, terribly well, have stayed there many a time for work. Hope you've found a place by now. Singapore is very close to Australia, hope you come and visit us down here sometime soon. :)

Hallo Johanna ... echt Schade, dass Du nicht mehr in London bist. I was just telling friends on the weekend about the amazing sourdough starter that you sent me a couple of years ago. Has it survived the relocation?!

I have lived in SGP and it does take some getting used to. You will learn to appreciate the clean cold air of Europe! But it truly is a food heaven, and there are great travel opportunities. re sushi, I had some of the best sushi ever in the Ritz Carlton. Once you get off Orchard Road and begin to discover the island it gets better. I remember when I first arrived I used to take refuge in the gardens at Raffles (and indulge in the coffee shop) - it was the only place I could find that was quiet! Also, after a while, it is quite bearable to live without AC - and far healthier.

Hi Johanna!
Glad you're finding your feet OK. Sorry I've didn't get to your departure or drop a line before - RL has been superbuzzy and also holiday-full (Cornwall - gorgeous! and NY - always fun). I was in Singapore for 4 days back in '86 and the only place I went to (other than shopping) was the Bird Park! Remember it as wonderful, though the boiling hot tincan of a local bus on the way wasn't much fun. Hope you and the boys are all settled in now and look forward to hearing more about your culinary adventures and when you get a kitchen. Ciao!