S15DET wrote:Must be the most expensive and overkill heater hoses ever. I love it! Nice touch.

Did you say they powder coated the body/interior? Did they cure it with IR lamps or have a giant furnace?

Yea, the heater hose thing is not really necessary but I spend a lot of time looking through car catalogs and web sites and occasionaly get these ideas in my head. Ooooo, look at that! you know what would be cool.... and the next thing I know I have AN fittings for the heater hoses and a racepack logger dash. Which BTW I received a few days ago and looks good, seems to be very high quality. That is also how a project that was intended to simply be a replacement body for the Yellowcar is now only using a couple of things off that car, I seem to be doing a very poor job of limiting scope creep .

Yes, the whole car was powdercoated. The place that did the work has an oven that is big enough to fit the whole car in.

goichi1 wrote:Looking really nice!! it's so much more fun putting it back together when everything is so new and clean! that's going to be one of the cleanest ever built!! nice work!

Thanks, I hope it turns out well when it is done. Yea, It is actually pretty nice that I can go out to the shop and spend the day working on the car and not really get all that dirty.

Quick updateI have been working on the wiring lately trying to fit the fuse panel, ECU, wideband O2 controller, circuit breakers and all the relays into the passenger foot well without it looking like a robot bird nest.

I ended up making a panel under the glove box to hold everything. The panel is hinged at the firewall and attaches to the roll bar at the front. I welded studs to the panel to attach all the relays and the fuse holder for the ECU then made a small raised section to screw the circuit breakers to so the screws would not protrude through the panel.

When the panel is closed you can get to the main Fuse Panel and the ECU. When the panel is open you can get to everything else. I’ll post pictures when I get a chance.

Here are a couple of pictures of the electrical panel, the wiring is just roughed in so far, there are still a few more things to go on the panel and I need to straighten everything and tighten all the hold down bolts, finish the wiring, finish.....

Oh, yea I ordered the ITBs last week so I should have those pretty soon.

I finally got my throttle bodies. I ordered tapered bore bodies which cost a little more but are supposed to perform measurably better.. guess we'll see.

It took a fair amount of fitting to line up the throttle bodies with the manifold and the manifold will need to be ported but other than that everything seems to look pretty good.

Things have been progressing on the wiring too. I have the back of the car wired (I hope its done anyway) all the relays are wired up, the ignition and turn signals are done and added a dimmer relay to run the headlights.

You are so right, it is Tims wasting money and speaking of wasting money this weekend I installed the universal sensor module for my Racepack dash. One of the things I wanted when I was planning the car was to have a single gauge rather than 20 different gauges all over the place (but to still be able to see lots of data) the dash does that except for one thing, It has no fuel level input and The Racepack sensors for the dash are a special kind that are all on a single “Vnet” bus and they do not offer a fuel level gauge. The simple answer was to keep the stock gauge but I wanted to put the Racepack dash where that was so that was out the second choice was to install a separate fuel gauge but I am really stubborn and had already decided that I was going to have a single gauge so that was out too. So…in order to get the fuel level I bought the Racepack “universal sensor module ~$200 so I can adapt my fuel level sender to the dash. The module also comes with a very short cable 60 it has to be mounted within 6 inches or so of the dash you can replace the cable but they cost $50-$60 so it is better to try and mount it close . I ended up making a mounting bracket for the module (which is about 4X6X1) and welding it to the dash frame. I guess the good thing is that I now have three more inputs for any other non-Racepack sensors I want to hook up.

Tim - looks sharp. What are your impressions of the EFI Hardware throttles? I have a pair of SK/OER parts, and a pair of TWM parts, and I would pick the SK/OER units over the TWM parts. The TWM parts are sand-castings whereas the SK/OER are permanent mold castings with a consequently nicer overall finish.