The Must-Eat List: Momocho

Al Pastor Taquitos

The chef who loves it | Deagan's Kitchen and Bar's Chris Kafcsak

Flavor source| The al pastor ($14) gets its sweet heat kick from the citrus and red chile adobo marinade that coats the pork before it goes into the oven to braise for three to four hours, which results in a harmonious taste. "It's a well rounded, well-thought out plate," says Kafcsak. "The flavor just builds. It's really fresh and sweet."

Wrapper's delight| Momocho chef and owner Eric Williams sends his al pastor taquitos to the table ready to be assembled with salsa verde and a honey-chile chipotle mojo sauce. The do-it-yourself aspect is one of Kafcsak's favorite parts. "I pick at my food and try all the components separate and then kind of build," he says. "But I don't pack it to the point that it's dripping over my hands and splashing all over the table."

Introductory period | Kafcsak was just getting into the food industry when he first tried the taquitos about seven years ago, and it was an eye-opening experience for the young chef. "Having one with a good margarita was mind-blowing," he recalls. "The whole thing was an awesome experience."

Gateway grub | Kafcsak's family didn't eat adventurously growing up, so the al pastor taquitos are a good example of how Williams introduces people to a modern brand of Mexican food. "It's one of those great plates that let you see what his food's about," Kafcsak says. "He does a really good job with that."