Or order one of many curries; they are milder than Indian. Frog Legs Curry -- yes, tastes like chicken, with a vague undertone of tilapia -- and Salmon With Coconut Milk Curry, slightly richer, are thick with vegetables.

Flan tastes fine. However, it's scooped and plopped without ceremony. The Parfait is an acquired taste, but the combination of earthy sweet red beans, coconut cream and chewy jellies is addictive.

Service runs from charmingly clairvoyant to good-natured-if-occasionally-AWOL. But you're likely to feel like loyal guests have long felt: happy to be there. -- Beth Segal