From Sea Glass to Sea Views, This is Positano

“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”

-John Steinbeck-

When planning our trip, we had waffled a bit on whether to make the effort of going to the Amalfi Coast. After all, we were also hiking the trails of the Cinque Terre (read here). Many sites recommended doing one or the other, so does a family really need another seaside village? ABSOLUTELY. The likeness begins and ends at stunning views and colorful buildings clutching the cliffs. There is simply no place on earth like the Amalfi Coast, and it is no wonder it is renowned as a luxurious and romantic hot spot.

Positano, known as the most picturesque of the coastal villages is a painting come to life. Dating back to the 16th century, it was a poor fishing village until the 1950’s when tourists began to descend, further increased by the above Steinbeck quote which appeared in Harper’s Bazaar in 1953. Beautifully stacked buildings reach towards the sky, and vibrant orange and blue umbrellas dot the beaches as people laze away the day, soaking up the sun. The fashion conscious flock to boutiques lining narrow alleys, massive yachts adorned with helicopters drift thru the marina, and the infamous Sentiero Degli Dei(Path of the Gods) is tackled by wide eyed hikers. From hundreds of steps, to a narrow one way street winding up and down the hills, Positano, is Italy electrified.

Positano

Positano

Grand Beach, Positano

Poitano from the ferry

HOW WE ARRIVED:

The Amalfi Coast requires a bit of planning to get to, and there are many ways to do so. You will come from one of 3 major hubs, Naples, Sorrento, or Salerno, followed by a transfer via car, ferry or local SITA bus. If coming from Naples/Sorrento, many sites (as well as the locals) recommend doing a private transfer direct from Naples, although it can be costly. We wanted to avoid Naples and the local train as we had ridden it to Pompeii on a previous trip, sowe opted to take the high speed train from Florence into Salerno.We then took the ferry to Positano and I am so glad we made this choice!! The ferry is a short walk from the station (even with kids and suitcases in tow) and we purchased our ticket on site for less than 50 Euros. It was stress free and the coastal scenery during the 70 minute ride was absolutely stunning.

*** The ferry only runs during the warmer months, for the schedule, check here.

Headed to Positano!

On the ferry

On the ferry

Amalfi Coast from the Ferry

WHERE WE STAYED:

In keeping with our desire for small scale accommodations where we could get to know the locals, I was intrigued by both the excellent reviews and the room rates of Dimora del Podesta. Finding little gems like this place is what turns a trip into an experience, and we quickly fell head over heels for the family that runs this 3 room B&B. Pietro greeted us warmly and brought us to a beautiful room that was light and airy, with a private bath and a quaint balcony wrapped in 100 year old bougainvilleas. While I stood in awe of the sea views, his mother happily brought the girls some juice from the kitchen, which, I might add, harbors an “honesty fridge” filled with drinks and snacks and smells like bakery heaven in the evening. And just as you go to pinch yourself, Pietro delivers said bakery heaven on a breakfast tray and shares stories of the his grandfather and the history of the building. I.Love.Italy.

** Be mindful that there are no roads to the Positano ferry dock. You will need to haul everything uphill to a square near the main road. Here you can take a taxi or catch the “Internal Positano Bus” (which does a loop in one direction). The B&B is located in Fornillo and the stop is marked by intricate carvings inside a grotto.

The balcony

Relaxing on the balcony

Breakfast for Kings!

Our B&B, Positano

THE FOOD:

Directly below the B&B is the family restaurant, Saraceno D’Oro, where we met the second of 3 brothers, the exuberant Daniele, and enjoyed several amazing dinners as well as taking pizza up to our room for lunch. With also running the hotel next door, this family seems to know everyone! And if they don’t, strangers quickly become friends as they take a seat for a meal.

On our final night we decided to change it up for dinner with a view. We enjoyed a meal at Caffe Positano, and the backdrop was as spectacular as the Eggplant Parmesan.

Caffe Positano

Caffe Positano

Sam and the girls

Caffe Positano

THE BEACHES:

Positano has several beaches, the most touristy being the 300 meter long Marina Grande Beach, where the ferries arrive. We did visit this beach, but on the advice of Pietro, we spent the day at Fornillo Beach, the one enjoyed by locals. We even conquered the 500 stairs that led down to it from the B&B! This is an excellent beach for kids who love sea glass, the water was clear and two chairs with umbrellas was less than 15 euros.

Rental Chairs

Fornillo Beach, Positano, Italy

Fornillo Beach

On our way down to Fornillo

The girls at Fornillo Beach, Positano, Italy

WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN:

Perhaps one of my favorite things about Italy, is that when the sun goes down, life truly begins. We spent each evening watching the lights come on, twinkling like stars along the coast. We would share a bottle of wine and listen to live music being played below, and we were fortunate to enjoy fireworks over neighboring villages.

As with so many places we visited in Italy, we fell in love with the vibrancy and life of Positano. It is a place that is so intriguing and unique, offering up an energy that completely fills you. From sea glass to sea views, the Amalfi Coast is a destination that is sure to win your heart. Until we meet again.

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67 thoughts on “From Sea Glass to Sea Views, This is Positano”

This all looks just wonderful, Amy! I love the Amalfi Coast and you’ve made me desperate to go back. I really like the look of your b&b. I also adore the Italian evenings, sitting outside in the warm air and enjoying the atmosphere. I must admit that on the Amalfi Coast I enjoyed a glass of Limoncello at night.

The ferry from Salerno made it so incredible easy and it was an affordable option! We simply couldn’t tackle another winding road after Tuscany with a severely car sick kiddo! And the view from the ferry is worth every minute!

Completely agree, Positano is one of the dreamiest places on earth! We spent our honeymoon there and have been itching to get back. Would love to take the kids like you! Jealous. Enjoyed reading this and being taken back :).

While there were so many beach goers, it managed to not feel “crowded” (as in Waikiki on a nice day crowded). Our best days were those when we went to a beach recommended by locals. But I hear you, we are always in search of that “secluded” piece of heaven to spend an afternoon. I’m thinking those beaches are mythical 😉

You said you went twice for a month? Lucky! Some people may say we are lucky to go to Disney World so much. I say Italy seems pretty cool and I am sure you feel grateful you could see as much as you did.

I am almost afraid I will fall for Italy but then we can’t afford to keep going back and there are so many places we want to see. On a different not, do you think with all the refugee/terror problems it will still be safe?

I think with ANY travel, you should always be aware of what is going on in that area. Unfortunately, we live in a world where the threat of terrorism is very real and is very wide spread. Would I go back to Italy this summer? Absolutely.

Well it isn’t going to stop me. I just know you have to be aware of your surroundings anywhere. It’s a sad state of affairs but certainly present in the U.S. I wouldn’t let it stop me from going to Italy for certain unless it was really dangerous.

I can see whey you feel in love with Positano! Thanks for the insight on the B&B, I will save this info. The views looked stunning, but absolutely loved how everyone is family and all work together! Thanks for sharing your wonderful trip to Positano… It inspires me to visit. Cheers

Thanks for stopping in! And yes, we made our entire trip about the experience of staying with locals, and this B&B was absolutely the epitome of the importance of family in Italy! I hope you get a chance to visit, Positano is so incredibly amazing!

Positano looks so picturesque. It is relatively less known as compared to Cinque Terre, but it really is a gem of the Amalfi Coast. Will definitely include it in our itinerary when we are in those parts next.

I’m not sure if this is on everyone’s Italy bucket list, but it is for us. We missed it last time we were there. I’ve heard so many great things so it is wonderful to hear that it actually lives up to the hype! Sounds like you and your family made great memories, thanks for sharing them with us!

Excellent write up as you covered everything I needed to know. There is nothing better than getting info on beaches where the locals visit. I have the same taste in you with finding small local accommodation.

Excellent write up as you covered everything I needed to know. There is nothing better than getting info on beaches where the locals visit. I have the same taste in you with finding small local accommodation.

What an incredibly picturesque part of the world and you did a great job of capturing it in your photos. The B&B in particular looks like a wonderful spot to spend your vacation while the food is very much reminding me that it is lunch time here in China! Great post and glad you enjoyed it as much as your photos would suggest

I love Italy! A couple of months ago I´ve been to Rome, Siena and Florence, but I also had thoughts about going to Positano! You´re experience seems so great and you´re post is really lovely! Thanks for sharing! And btw, your kids are adorable!!! 🙂

Well, when I read such beautiful articles about my country I’m proud of living in Italy! Amalfi coast is really a jewel and your words fully reflected it! Actually, I was feeling a bit envious about the balcony and the breakfast you had with such a view 😀

Ohhh now I want to go to Italy again!! I had a 3-month road trip around Italy last year (from the Aosta Valley all the way down to Sicily and the Aeolian Islands) and I totally fell in love with that country! The landscapes, the food (though I’ve become vegan since then…), the language, the men!! lol
I did drive along the Amalfi coast on my way back north but unfortunately didn’t really have time to stop there… Oh well, there’s always next time! x

Amazing post and what a quote to begin with!
Have never been to Italy but good to see that the food has much more to offer beyond the pizza.
It also looks like a great family-friendly destination which is not easy to find nowadays.

A drive along the Amalfi coast has long been on our wishlist. We even planned to make it during our Italy Trip but could only make to Cinque Terra. Your pictures are so alluring and we regret we missed it. Hope to make someday soon

I think that the Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast are very different and both worth visiting. I have been to both in different times and fell in love which each of them. I didn’t make it all the way to Positano, just to Sorrento, but I remember all those buildings “hanging” off the cliffs. Simply stunning!

What a beautiful town and I would so get there the same way you did as I’m into slower and more peaceful methods of traveling. Thanks for sharing your time there. I would like to visit one day and now I have some great tips!

Hi there! We stayed in Positano and loved Fornillo beach. My daughters collected a mass of sea glass there, and it is the beach that is loved by the locals. Have a fantastic trip and don’t hesitate to contact me with any more questions!