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Lining fabric

Does anyone know if it’s OK to cut lining fabric across the grain? I’m asking because if I do so, I will avoid having to buy some more fabric as there is enough width to cut my skirt out but probably not enough length of fabric.

It is best to make sure your lining fabric also goes in the same direction, or on the bias, if you have enough fabric. If you do not have enough fabric for the lining, cut out what you can for the lining and do not attach lining at bottom hem, so that the lining does not pull at your outer skirt. I usually cut the lining 2 inches wider and longer that my pattern for ‘ease’ in the finished garment—it is less likely to pull down the outer garment when it is completed.

Yes the lining can be shorter, if there is no alternative – most important that the hip/ seat area is lined to prevent stretching. You can always wear a slip underneath to prevent the skirt from " clinging ".

All fabrics usually wear better if cut on the grain down the fabric, as the warp threads are stronger. However, with a light weight lining like habotai, the weave is very even and it will, in use, make very little difference.

Cutting strictly on the grain does make modern clothes hang better, but remember that in the past people were not so fussy, and cut things the way they could make best use of the fabric available. If you are only a little short here and there, you can also piece the lining. Use a fine felled seam for this as it is least likely to show on the outside.

Another trick is to use a different colour of lining down to the hip, where it doesn’t show in use. Cut the front and back in upper and lower sections, remembering to add seam allowances where the sections join.

Sewing a Neck Facing with Zipper

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