anchor ball set up

For single hand operation, nothing is as fast, convenient, or safe as anchoring with an anchor ball. Frankly, I think I can haul anchor faster than two guys hauling in the conventional manner. When I drop anchor, I can watch my depth finder as the boat drifts back and tie off precisely on top of the fish.
Here is how my boat and anchor ball system is rigged.

Here is how I anchor. The first step after finding a rock is to determine where the anchor should be hooked to allow the boat to be positioned over the fish. I drop anchor from the cockpit as shown below. The engine is in reverse at idle speed. The anchor ball is not released. The anchor line slides out through the anchor ball ring.

Continue adding scope until you are about 2 boat lengths from your buoy and then release the anchor ball.

Secure the anchor line at the spring line cleat when you are close to your buoy. You can haul or release more line as needed.

I always rig my anchor system on the side of the boat closest to the helm. This gives me a better view of the anchor line while I haul anchor. Turn the wheel to port and pull ahead. The anchor ball will begin to track down the Stbd side of the boat as shown in figure 1.

Continue forward and slightly to port until the ball comes along side. Reach over and grab the anchor line as the ball passes and secure the anchor line with one wrap around the stern cleat. No way to foul up now. See drawing 2.

thats been the best way to us an anchor for me. The only time I had to use the stern cleat was when my anchor was stuck in some deep mud. It usually pops the anchor with no problem and then I move closer to the line for retrieval.

You shoudn't have any problem pulling the anchor with that cleat it should be just as strong as the bow cleat. I have used the stern cleats many times to pull a stuck anchor loose, sometimes to the point of breaking the chain. Just be careful of running into a stern anchoring situation if it gets stuck. May want to keep a knife handy. The only problem I found with keeping the anchor ball in the water is sometimes the waves will wrap the line around the anchor rode and the ball won't slide down the rode.

I've only used the anchor ball 4 times; still getting the knack of it.

That looks like an excellent way to handle it, especially if you have a cuddy cabin. Easier to work in the cockpit next to the helm, than at the bow. The tie point isn't as important on the rode as the exit point. If you're out there worried about ripping out a cleat while fishing at anchor, you should be home watching TV. Just make sure the exit point can handle the load, or you could quickly be in deep s%!t anchored off a spring cleat..

Last year, we bent up a bow chock trying to free the anchor (ever try to match up a 25 yr old bow chock? don't bother. ). I like the stern cleat idea for pulling it loose in most situations.

Keep a knife handy.

It's a beautiful thing when that ball pops up

Now if I could just come up with some kind of small spool gizmo to wind the rode onto........................

Proud member of the Ancient Mariners.
.
Money won't buy happiness,
But it'll get your ass on a boat, and that's a start.

For single hand operation, nothing is as fast, convenient, or safe as anchoring with an anchor ball. Frankly, I think I can haul anchor faster than two guys hauling in the conventional manner. When I drop anchor, I can watch my depth finder as the boat drifts back and tie off precisely on top of the fish.
Here is how my boat and anchor ball system is rigged.

Here is how I anchor. The first step after finding a rock is to determine where the anchor should be hooked to allow the boat to be positioned over the fish. I drop anchor from the cockpit as shown below. The engine is in reverse at idle speed. The anchor ball is not released. The anchor line slides out through the anchor ball ring.

Continue adding scope until you are about 2 boat lengths from your buoy and then release the anchor ball.

Secure the anchor line at the spring line cleat when you are close to your buoy. You can haul or release more line as needed.

I always rig my anchor system on the side of the boat closest to the helm. This gives me a better view of the anchor line while I haul anchor. Turn the wheel to port and pull ahead. The anchor ball will begin to track down the Stbd side of the boat as shown in figure 1.

Continue forward and slightly to port until the ball comes along side. Reach over and grab the anchor line as the ball passes and secure the anchor line with one wrap around the stern cleat. No way to foul up now. See drawing 2.

I'm sorry I misunderstood. Looks good, I have a CC so I don't have to do the center cleat thing, I've been using a danforth and only use a hook if I get blown off. The ball allows me to pull the anchor without getting hooked up in the wreck. I never used one with a grapple but that's a good idea.

from the diagram it is tough to tell if you'll be OK...but in certain conditions ...if the anchor line puts pressure against any bow rail it could bend or you could start it working loose (water intrusion into deck at least)

Why everyone doesnt have one baffles me . I changed after watching 3 people ( including my sister ) trying to pull stuck anchor in 3 footers . Every time the rope snapped the pulpit I thought I was gonna puke , wouldnt have taken much to snap a finger .
No more cold wet hands and legs in spring and fall , no more yelling into wind to DROP ! .
BTW I NEVER tie off to mid or stern cleat . I just run through pulpit and carry back to cockpit and set on deck . Retieve as normal , retrieve side of boat at cockpit and set on deck till dock or reanchor . I would not tie off , I bent the pulpit rollers last year . When really hung , just lay off throttles and get new angle . If you are doing right boat will just fish tail when it gets too tough .