Lodge Road’s perspective suggests it could be a really fine shopping thoroughfare, when the reality is it’s a litter-strewn street with shutters down galore, even in daytime. Fair play, then, to the Big J Grill House for trying to survive such anti-social odds.

I’ve never been into an eatery where the normally hot glass display area is full of tins of Del Monte fruit, but there’s a first time for everything.