Aozora. the heir to Genji in Jericho, recently added to its mainly Japanese repertoire. The result, however, underscores that less indeed is more. While the sushi and sashimi remain reliable and the hibachi productions popular, a foray into Korean bibimbap is a dry travesty. Thai red curry seems an afterthought, too. Spicy blue crab salad: neither spicy nor crabby. The other notable change at Aozora...

The other notable change at Aozora is a dramatic decline in service, especially if a large group drops in. You'll need to ignite flares to find your waiter. And when he returns, it may not be with the right dish.

Aozora is subtitled "modern Asian cuisine." Now, it requires time - and memory.