"This is like French soul food," said Martinique's executive chef Eric Labouchere.

It's also the food of Labouchere's youth. Although he grew up in New England, his grandfather was a banker in Geneva. When his family visited Europe, they often met his grandfather in the bistros of Paris.

"These were the classic dishes I would see on all the menus," he said. "If you haven't experienced them, then you have to."

Labouchere realizes that faithful renditions of classic bistro cooking will probably never return to fashion in an age when diners prefer lighter cooking.

"They're heavy dishes," he said, "so they look heavy."

In the colder season, however, they fit our appetites.

"Secretly, I love doing this food," Labouchere said. "Besides this time of year, farm to table is tough."