Electronics Parts

Shop With Confidence

TU800SPPB2 Whirlpool Trash Compactor - Instructions

All installation instructions for TU800SPPB2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the trash compactor repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Trash compactor would not turn off at end of cycle and made a grinding noise and some vibration

I removed the unit from under the kitchen counter by first pulling the trash drawer all the way out and lifting it out of the track and setting it out on the floor. I then slowly pulled the compacting unit out and unplugged the cord from the electrical outlet. With the entire unit out in the floor I took a nut driver and removed the screws from the top plate and the screws from both sides at the bottom of the front housing. This allowed access to the directional switch. Two screws on the right side of the switch have to be removed to remove the switch along with two holding plates on the left side of the switch. The switch can then be accesses for removal. Several wires are attached to the switch and should be removed one at a time and installed to the identical identical location on the new switch. The new switch can then be installed by aligning the holes and reinstalling the holding plates. When this is done the front frame and top plate can be replaced with the nut screws. Plug back into the electrical outlet and see if it works. In this case it did exactly what it was doing before I started. So either I did not reinstall the directional switch properly or I am in the one percent rather than the 99 percent that should successfully solve the problem as suggested in the trouble shooting guide. I will now recheck the installation of the directional switch nd then check the bottom of the unit to see if the gears or chain drive are broken .

Pull unit from under counter (Held in place with 2 screws) Use nut driver to remove top and front panel. (I didn't remove the control panel from the front panel which probably made access more difficult) Locate the directional switch near the top of the unit and remove two screws, being careful not to lose a small metal plate into which the screws thread (similar to a Tinneman nut). I moved the wires one at a time from the old switch to the new as I am color blind and have trouble with wire colors. Fit the new switch in place, being sure the switch lever is positioned against the metal tab that operates it. Screw the switch in place and then reassemble the compactor.

I read the Parts Select trouble shooting guide which indicated that 99% of the time the problem was with the Directional Switch so I ordered one. I pulled the unit out from under the countertop, unplugged the electrical plug from the outlet and took the trash tray out of the unit and set it aside. I took the top panel off with the nutdriver as well as the front panel along with the handle of the power switch. Better access to the Directional Switch can be made by removing the compacting unit. This can be done by sliding it up out of appliance and setting it aside. I used a phillips screw driver to unscrew the two screws on the right side of the switch and the two thin compression plates on the left side which hold the switch in place. I then carefully removed the contact wires from the Directional Switch one at a time and placed them on the new switch in the proper locations. The switch can then be reinstalled with the screws and compression plates. The compacting unit can then be loaded back into the appliance with the activating bracket to the front, BUT be very careful that the arm on the Directional Switch is out of the way when it is slid back into place and be sure that the bracket that activates the Directional Switch is facing the switch in order to send the message to the On/Off Switch to stop the motor when the cycle is completed. The bracket on the front of the compacting unit will force the thin arm on the back of the switch to activate a relay button that is supposed to tell the Rotary switch to shut off the motor and stop the cycle. The front panel and the top panel can then be reinstalled. I checked to see if it solved the problem before putting it back under the countertop. I had to tape the black cutoff switche on the front and on the inside of the container compartment to accomplish this. I then plugged it in and turned the Off/On switch. The unit cycled down and back up but did not shut off and the same noise came from one side at the bottom of the unit. I unplugged the unit and turned it on it's side and removed the bottom plate to inspect the gears and drive chain belt. All the gears and the drive belt were in good condition. So that was not the problem either. That left the Rotary Switch to be the faulty part. I then had to order the Rotary Switch Kit and wait for it to arrive which it did in a short period of time. The old switch was removed by pulling off the handle then using needle nosed pliers to loosen the ring nut that holds the switch in place. This released the old Rotary Switch from the front frame. A flat head screw driver was used to release the wires from the terminals on the switch and place them on the new switch. As per the instructions with the switch kit, the hole for the threaded end of the switch to fit through the hole in the front plate needed to be enlarged. The instructions tell you to use a 9/16 inch drill to carefully enlarge the hole size. Since I did not have that size drill bit, I used a small rat tail file to enlarge the hole. I placed the threaded end of the switch through the hole in the front plate and tried to screw the ring nut back on to the threaded end of the switch. The threads did not pass far enough through the front plate to allow the ring nut to thread and hold the switch in place. I found that there were two plastic ridges on the back side of the front plate that did not allow the threaded end of the switch to fit far enough through the hole to attach the ring nut. I then had to take the front plate off and used a chizel and hammer to carefully chip off the ridges so the theads would fit through the plate and allow installaton of the ring nut. The wires could then be placed on the Rotary Switch, ring nut installed and tightened, the front panel replaced and the top plate reinstalled and the unit tested. This time it worked and the trash compactor was plugged in and shoved back in place under the counter top. Now for the rest of the sto

the switch did not click off

very easy to fix. all it took was pulling the compactor out to unplug,take off the removable front nob, unscrew two screws located just below the front panel.using needle nose pliers to remove the actual switch, unplug the wires conected to the switch and put the new one on the same way. It almost took me longer to write this discription than it took to fix!

Compactor ram was stuck in the down position after hearing a loud bang during a compacting cycle. Removed outer compactor casing to determine cause, only to find gear housing underneath the compactor that contained drive chain and gear assembly. Primary gear had split neatly in half. Determined the appropriate part needed with partselect part finder (of course, an entire kit, and not just the gear), had part shipped and had compactor repaired in three days. The actual repair and reassembly of the compactor took less than a half-hour. Consisted of removing chain tension from gear hub by loosening four sheet metal screws holding motor assembly, removing circlip and old gear hub from chain and shaft, replacing gear hub with new part, lubricating the gear mechanism, and reinstalling in reverse order.

Large ring gear - delrin - split in two

Laid appliance on side - removed top sheet metal cover and bottom sheet metal cover. Broken delrin ring gear was on bottom of bottom cover (housing). Gear had broken off of its hub, which also was the sprocket chain drive for both acme screws driving the compactor platten. Motor had to be loosened so that the chain could be removed from the old sprocket hub, and the new delrin ring gear - with new sprocket hub attached - could be mounted on its fixed spindle. With new delrin gear/chain sprocket mounted, the motor had to be spaced and tightened to allow 0.010 inch lash between the gears. The only instructions included with the new gear was how to do this - by placing a piece of paper in between the pinion gear on the motor, and the new ring gear, and then tightening the motor into place. This was done, the sheet metal covers were re-installed, and the compactor works just fine. There is a design flaw in the original (KitchenAid) engineering of the gear, however, and I expect that in the next four years this will probably happen again.

First off....I was surprised at how inexpensive the drive gear kit was. As others commented, they fit perfectly and I believe will fit other manufacturer's models since there is a lot of cross branding. The Drive gear replacement itself would be easy as described by others so I won't repeat that. However replacing the plastic tubular "ram stops" on the screw drive was a challenge since there are no "helpful hints" in the blog. To do that you have to work from the top and sides. Needed to remove the two gear cams where the screw drives are seated on the bottom of the unit, then (working with the unit on it's side)you have to raise the whole (heavy) plunger that is attached to the drive screws high enough to remove the old tubular ram stops and bushing and replace. To raise the plunger assembly out from the top you have to remove the sheet metal top plate of the unit....and....importantly remove the control panel on the front where the switches are. There is a limiter switch that has a metal arm which engages a plate on the plunger to stop the unit when it reaches the top. You need to remove that switch to be able to raise the plunger assembly high enough to get the new parts on the screw drive. Put all that back together and then go on to the gear replacement as described by others which was straight forward. Very messy job with all the grease and garbage residue. I am pretty handy figuring these things out, and there may be an easier way, but next time I will call a pro or replace the whole compactor.

Looking at the information I found online it was either one of 2 things the directional switch was bad, or the drive gear was broken. I replaced the directional switch 1st since that was the easiest and that did not solve my problem. I put it all back together and thought about it for a little while. After a couple of days. It occurred to me that I could see the ramrod's spinning as the plunger goes down, then when the plunger reached as far as it would go. The ramrod's would stop spinning. I reasoned that the problem had to be somewhere between the motor and those rods when I opened up the bottom of the trash compactor, Iran the cycle again and I could see that the drive gear was still spinning, but the chains to the ramrod's were not spinning. Once I saw that I realized that the sprocket that was attached to the drive gear had broken. The sprocket is metal and the drive gear is plastic and they fit together perfectly, but through age or stress. The plastic have become rounded and no longer fit perfect on that nut when you applied a good deal of pressure. I didn't have the tool that I needed to replace the small drive year. I think you need some kind of a punch to get that pin out. So I left that one in place loosened the nuts that hold the motor in place to create some slack in the chain chain came off the new drive gear one on. I tightened the motor back up in the correct position is reassembled everything and it's working perfect again.

The panel got bent

Took the bent one out, put the new one in. The repair was not the story, the story was that we ordered the part on Monday afternoon and it was delivered on Tuesday! And the shipping was less than $8.00. Fresno to Elk Creek in less than 24 hours for that price was amazing!