I'm in process of trying to learn Ecabinets and have not had a successful cut cabinet yet. The issue I'm running into is that I'm only getting the blind dados to process on the CNC, not the external cuts. I imagine this is something simple that I'm missing, but any help is appreciated to point me the right direction. A screenshot of my nesting output is attached. I did change my Nest Type to TrueShape. Thanks,

It would be helpful to know what machine you are running or is this through the shopbot link?Looking at your nest it may be ready for the flip opp to cut the back side dado then cut the out line, do you get any messages?

Thanks for the reply. I am running this on an older Thermwood C53 5x10. You can see the green lines for the dado to be cut on the backside, but I don't get green lines for the outside cuts showing when I'm processing the files. Like I said, I'm new to Ecabinets so I'm just working on a getting a workflow down that I can use consistently. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I'll check those settings when I'm at my shop tomorrow. I really hope its something as simple as that. I'm using cheap Home Depot plywood for test cuts but its still frustrating to have a full sheet on the table with only blind dado cuts and nothing else. Cheers!

Alec, it sounds like you're doing the flip-op first cuts. You will need the machine set up properly in order to flip them accurately. If you want to do them afterwards you can turn them off using the flip ops first tab.

I would recommend setting up your libraries so you don't have flip opps. We avoid them if at all possible. We have been machining for 7-8 years and still have stress achieving the accuracy we like with a flip opp.

David Giesbrecht wrote:I would recommend setting up your libraries so you don't have flip opps. We avoid them if at all possible. We have been machining for 7-8 years and still have stress achieving the accuracy we like with a flip opp.

David,

If you want accurate flips the two keys are making sure your pins don't have any slop in them and an accurate fixture offset. An edgefinder such as this one https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools- ... dge+finder can make it much easier to find the offset (as well as can usually be much more accurate than a tool and paper).

I agree that in an ideal world I would not have to do any flip operations. Is it possible to set up blind dado joinery without flip operations? This particular cabinet I showed is a frameless 4 drawer cabinet with blind dados on the sides, top, and bottom, with a fully inset back.

Alec Gordon wrote:I agree that in an ideal world I would not have to do any flip operations. Is it possible to set up blind dado joinery without flip operations? This particular cabinet I showed is a frameless 4 drawer cabinet with blind dados on the sides, top, and bottom, with a fully inset back.

Alec

The back is your flip, you have it set for the top stretcher and the deck to be inserted in the back. do you have to have them inserted or could you let them be butt jointed and staple or screw them from the back side???

Thank you guys for all the help. Last night I was able to finally get my first cabinet cutout and it worked surprisingly well. I changed out the joinery on my back panel of the cabinet to remove the top stretcher and deck and made it full dado into the side panels. That one check box mentioned by @Tommy Wieler really is what threw me for a loop. I looked through all the manuals and must have been skimming since I missed that. All I needed was to uncheck the box of "no outline cuts" and I'm off to the races and can start designing and building out my kitchen. Cheers, and thanks again.