At the risk of seeming pedantic, I’d like to draw your attention to the picture of Blizzard on the homepage. Anyone who knows the problem will tell you that the climber is avoiding all the difficult bits by using the left hand arête. The problem starts on the sloper, then moves diagonally right to the big jug at the top (his LH should be on the edge his RH is on).

Blizzard is not contrived, he’s just doing a different problem, which I'll name Gentle Breeze.

Ja, we started the problem like that..... killed my right toe hooking round the slab on the left to reach the second hold (slopey edge) of the normal 7a version. So...... for the proper problem.... once you've got the heel hook (as in the piccy)... .do you cross through with your left hand and get it on the tiny edge my right hand is on in the piccy,... and then deadpoint for the jug off that?

From the sloper, RH to the good edge, heel hook LF on the sloper, cross your LH to the crimp, then move your LF off the heel hook and smear it just right of (and below) the sloper. Then pop RH to a gaston above and right from the crimp (use this to get your body higher) then pop RH again to the jug. Except for the first move, you don't use your RF.

Last year, I bashed my right index finger into the rock doing the last pop - and I ended up with an avulsion fracture... so be careful.

Hahaha...discussing beta is not an alternative.... it's part of my work! Well, sort of.

Cool..... hmmm, time to head back to the turtle area then. Shot Guy!! ... I think!!

In all fairness, the FA of Gentle Breeze should go to Mark Cowen....... he bagged it before me.... I was just bemoaning the fact I thought I'd done Blizzard properly when in fact I was blown off, and trying to salvage some sense of pride - bah........ so Justin, before Mark jabs me in the head with the ice tool hanging behind me, change the new caption to 'Jono sending Gentle Breeze' ..