Stock Trailwings in the photo above. Before riding the WABDR I got D606 front and rear. Rear D606 is fantastic. Front was real busy in gravel, when new, settled down with wear- however the D606 sticks to gravel, dirt, rock, asphalt. I like the D606 especially in the rear, somewhere on this forum I read of claims of the best ever front tire for gravel that I would try next time on front.

ADVNCW, I like your set up, do you need a rear rack for that giantloop bag, if so, which one are you using? I was considering the Cyclerack, but the Giantloop bag looks like it might keep the weight forward and lower.

ADVNCW, I like your set up, do you need a rear rack for that giantloop bag, if so, which one are you using? I was considering the Cyclerack, but the Giantloop bag looks like it might keep the weight forward and lower.

I just bought a Giant Loop Coyote for my 230L. It does not need a rear rack, it sits where the passenger would sit. The rear sub-frame on these bikes are not rated for much weight, less then 15 pounds. I'm outfitting mine to do the "Shadow of the Rockies" trail next month. I was going to use a rear rack and saddle bags but the sub-frame looked fragile for the weight I was going to put on it, (gear and extra fuel). The GL Coyote bag keeps the weight forward off the rack area. When I get back, I'm going to re-enforce the the sub frame so that it is useful for the type of riding and equiptment I carry.

Took the 230L out for a ride yesterday. first one of the season. Over the winter i swapped the rubber for Dunlop 606's and went to a 102 link chain and 42T Rear. changed the fork fluid, added an extra centimeter.

What a difference! had it plowing through snow up to the skidplate. Another few weeks should see it packing a bear out of the back-country.

Took the 230L out for a ride yesterday. first one of the season. Over the winter i swapped the rubber for Dunlop 606's and went to a 102 link chain and 42T Rear. changed the fork fluid, added an extra centimeter.

What a difference! had it plowing through snow up to the skidplate. Another few weeks should see it packing a bear out of the back-country.

now to do something about that spongy rear shock....

I am getting ready to change to 42t and 102 link. Which sprockets and chain did you go with? Are you happy with your choices.

__________________
"Things ain't now as they use to was been and people don't do as they use to did then". Moore Noyes

I will. We leave on May 19f rom Phoenix and will ride secondary roads and dirt to Alpine, AZ. The next day to SilverCity, NM and to a starting point on the trail.
The trail is on the east side of the White Sands Missle Range, we still trying to determine the exact route from Silver City to the other side of the Range with out encountering heavy or Interstate traffic.

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?

I'm impressed with the Great Basin bag that I bought for touring/camping. It would be used with my street bike, the '89 enduro.

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?

I'm using this exact set up with a Wolfman tank bag. I bought a RotoPak one gallon fuel pack and have it mounted to the rear Honda rack. Gasoline weighs about 7 puunds per gallon, so I estimated the whole set up on the rear rack is way less then 10 pounds. I figure if I need more space I'll get a set of Wolfman Tank Panniers, but I don't think ot will be necessary.

I have an 08 230L that i got used (242 miles, now 4000). it is now my turn to change my rear brake pas and the ones I ordered off the interwebs are too thick, though it is possible that im not depressing the brake caliper piston enough, its depresses easily with a screwdriver and feels like it bottoms out. tried to make it go that last bit with a c-clap to no avail. so my question is: when yall go to change pads, how far should the piston depress. should it be flush or does ~1/8-1/16 of an inch of the piston remain exposed.