MSN

Website URL

ICQ

Yahoo

Jabber

Skype

Location

Interests

Alrighty, so after doing some reading, LOTS of reading, I have decided I am developing an end all, be all ultimate super 8.8 swap. The key features of THIS setup are as follows.
-bolt on 2015 mustang hub assembly. No more $$$$ stub axles prone to breaking.
-bolt on 2007 subaru coilover strut, buy cheap or buy ultra nice, entirely up to you.
-bolt on s30 rear lower control arms... again use stock, or nice pieces like Arizona Z car etc, your choice.
-will have stock 2015 mustang brake mounting points. We're talking disc brakes with built in parking brake in the caliper, and take off brakes for less than $200. There is a plethora of brake available for these cars, including Baer brakes drag setup that lets you use 15 inch wheels for sticky slicks on drag nights.
-3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 or 4.09 gears And limited slip torsen differentials for $262 to $700 dollars for complete low mileage units. Super 8.8 much stronger than the 8.8 of yesteryear.
-800 hp 930 cv axles COMPLETE for $1,299 for the pair. 34 spline into the diff and 32 at the hub. No more stub axles, companion flanges, or custom diff axle stubs or adapter needed. This price was quoted to me today from the "Driveshaft shop". I contacted them about custom length 2015 mustang axles and that's the price they gave me.
-rebuildable cv joints, you only have to buy the custom axles once, and rebuild them as needed for much much cheaper.
This setup could easily be adapted to use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 but that would require asking the driveshaftshop to make you custom 31 spline axle stubs instead of the 34 spline ones they include in the $1299 price.
This is something I am building for myself. But if anyone wants some I will gladly make extras.
I'm just blown away at the prices of things for our Z cars, and decided to bring something to market that would potentially benefit the guys who want something more than oddball custom for stupid money. Aside from the custom length 930 cv axles EVERYTHING is off the shelf cheap and strong parts. Cheap brakes, cheap bearing hubs, cheap differentials, cheap limited slip. And so on.
Also, I am designing a front disc brake setup as well. The idea is to use all 4 disc brakes off a 2015 mustang for balanced and affordable braking. It'll require a 17 or 18 inch wheel, but the guys running 800hp turbo is engines or 2jz swaps are usually already there anyway...
If you have any better suggestions for a strut I'm open to ideas.

Hi everyone,
I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover. I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently.
I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise. Please see linked video. Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it.
As you can see by the sharpie mark I made, the perch does not turn smoothly. It seems to bind and then pop with the spring into place. The popping noise is fairly loud and makes me look like a terrible owner haha 😭.
I then jacked the car up and noticed that the spring is rubbing and has shaved off part of the threaded section. This is probably what is causing it to get stuck:
I guess the spring is somehow misaligned between the upper and lower perches, but it seemed odd as the spring was properly seated on the lower perch when the car was loaded. I dropped the strut assembly and checked for straight alignment (which it looked perfectly fine), bolted it back in, and put sharpie on the threads to see if it would still rub. It still rubs!!!
Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? The popping and now the visible rub is making me not want to drive the car

I'm picking up my 280zx with a manual trans and 90,000 miles. It needs brake lins but thats it acording to the owner. I plan on making this a project car and one day a weekend car. I'm not looking the get a ton of power out of it but I do want to make it look nice. I'm a good craftsman and fabricator in my opinion so I plan on making a lot of stuff in house. I want to lower it a good bit, give it some offset wheels and fender flares, and paint it all on a budget plus spruce up the inside. I can make the flares no problem but I'm not sure how im going to do the suspention. $900 coilovers are awsome but not in the buget for me. I have a welder though. I'm looking for links to diy suspenson maybe and what I should look for in rims.
Also is $800 a decent deal? or not so much. best deal in my area but I have heard of people getting better deals
Let me know if you have other Ideas for my project to.
Thanks,
Isaac

As I've mentioned briefly here before, I'm nearing completion of my electric conversion on a 1977 280Z. The conversion has resulted in a significant change to the car's weight balance, and I need advice on suspension adjustments to go along with this. In lieu of the ~500 lbs L28, there is now a 120 lbs electric motor:
And where the spare tire well/gas tank once was, there is ~300 lbs of batteries and battery housing:
As a result, the ride height is quite high up front:
The rear looks fine to me though:
This car will be a daily driver around town and on freeways. I have no plans to track/autocross/etc (and would need to do a major overhaul of my battery pack to set it up for that). So I'm looking for a way to lower the front while keeping the ride comfortable for daily driving. It's been suggested that I just cut the springs up front, but others have warned that's a horrible idea. I'd rather not spend big money on a fancy setup with a ton of adjustment meant for racing that I'll never use, so is there something in between that might work better for me?

hello everyone I'm new to this forum and was wondering what kind of setup everyone is using for ungraded suspension parts on their 280ZXs? i haven't had much luck finding anything in terms of struts/ coilovers that work, and am curious as to what everyone has done

After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes.
I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints.
I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3
The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc...
It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things.
Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width.
Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...

Hello, im new here and was looking for racing/track suspension and chassis almost everywhere and didnt find it. So i have got a few questions.
1. Does 280z suspension and chassis fit into 280zx?
2. From what company can i buy suspension and chassis ? (In Europe if possible if not its ok)
3.Does 300zx brakes fit in 280zx?
Datsun 280zx 2+2 1979 2.8l 5speed manual.
Hope You guys will help me!

Wheel broke off when I was driving cause my studs weren’t torqued probably haven’t driven my z in months and I’m itching to drive my z again need front wheel hub for the cheap I think 280z ones fit as well. Preferably people in Cali willing to pick up if you live close! Someone inbetween la or sd that has one!!

Hey guys,
I am very unhappy with the way the eibach progressive springs and kyb shocks ride. I feel the car is bobbing around and having a hard time loading the suspension into slightly more aggressive corners.
I am in the process of ordering some BC Coilovers for my 280 (1JZ, poly bushings , 245/40R17, 17x9 and ZG flares(presently its on blocks and being assembled).
The car will be primarily a daily driver in the spring, summer, fall with the odd autocross day. I don't want to slam it, making it difficult to navigate city streets or sore after driving for an hour lol. I would like it to look decent with good handling.
After reading through some of the comments It seems like the standard coil overs do not drop the car very much (0-2"). The s30 especially the 280z is SUPER high and needs to be brought down a bit....
After speaking with BC they told me I can define the exact drop I would like so I am thinking of getting a custom kit with a 1.5-4.5" drop. (4k(225 lb/inch) in the front and 5k (280 lb/inch) for the rear. (Stock is 115.4 Front, 127.7 Rear))
They also said they will be changing the shock body size and stroke based on my request. For a standard lowering kit they run 230mm body with 110mm of travel in front and 290mm body with 140mm travel in rear. They will probably take 20mm off each body and stroke length if I get a lower kit. Pretty neat eh...
Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Hey all,
Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said:
Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened street S30. I have seen references in other threads that suggest that the Koni 6810s are stiffer and more appropriate for high spring rates and track/road race uses.
What shocks, currently on the market, are the best match to the performance of the Tokico Illuminas? Ideally something adjustable within the stiffness range of a daily driver.

I've got a 1975 280z with a stock suspension. This is the only Z I've ever driven so I can't really compare it to anything but I feel like the ride is pretty rough. I can feel every tiny imperfection in the road and if I hit any kind of hole or bump at a good speed it feels pretty bad. It gets very floaty on the freeway. I've got it on 215/55r16 tires.
I don't race it or anything so it's just for normal street driving. I looked around at a bunch of other forums and from what I read it looks like Eibach Pro Spring Kits rated at 150lb in the front and 175lb in the rear is what people are suggesting, with Tokico HP struts.
I was wondering if anyone is running this setup and could maybe say anything about it like if it isn't too rough for just everyday driving. Or if maybe something new has come out that I didn't find and anyone had suggestions.

Is there an advantage to weld in camber plates? Trying to figure out what route to take. The drill and bolt method seems legit and i could always make a small plate to go on the underside to help stiffen the top the tower. Im guessing the weld in plates are stout.

Info:
1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD
Problem:
First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc..
I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime.
Please help! I attached pictures of the part.

Hey all,
I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates.
Current setup:
200 lb/in front springs
22mm front sway bar
250 lb/in rear springs
no rear sway bar
pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm)
lowered somewhat but not a ton
205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s
Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks
-2.0º camber front and rear
2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward)
0 toe front
1/16" total toe in rear
Next steps I was initially thinking of:
put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on
increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R)
add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already)
However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around).
It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well.
One setup I was thinking of was:
350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back.
But, I also see lots of downsides:
it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis.
Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this?
My goals for the car are:
1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways.
and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend)
doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time.
Some pics to show the amount of roll:

Fellow Enthuziazts...
I'm in the process of resto-modding my 73 240z.
I purchased the AZC coil overs, they are very nice.
The car is in the process of being painted, and I'm redoing the suspension myself.
I've had just about every part of the car acid stripped, and i'm ready to assemble the suspension. Want to weld, paint, assemble, and send to shop for installation on the body.
Unfortunately, i really can't mock up the rear coil-over setup with body, because it's all completely apart.
This is just a street car, maybe the occasional autocross. I'll probably get some 235/40 17s or something close to the original tire OD. I probably won't lower the car more than inch.
Can anyone share what height or dimension was used to locate the new coil-over tube?? I cut the original strut tube at 3.5" from the casting per AZC's directions.
thanks
Joe in SE WI.

hey guys,
I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar..
I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks,
I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy.
Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedback.

Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos.
I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring
fourth photo: on the car

I have found a few threads on this issue, but no real resolution. The front sits noticeably higher (over 1") after the installation... it appears the front didn't even drop a millimeter from stock.
Springs: Eibach Lowering Kit
Shocks: KYB
Checks:
6305.001 springs are on the front.
6305.202 springs are on the rear.
The label and part number are right-side up so you can read them.
The springs are seated properly.
The control arm bolts/nuts were tightened with the load of the car (not on jack stands).
Does anyone have a clue as to why the front did not lower? Seems basic enough...

Hello,
This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project.
My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car.
What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship.
What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects.
I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game.
Thanks.

My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of.
My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.

Z car fans,
Looking at different kits for my 73 240z. Need a kit for the street and occasional autocross.
I received instructions for two different kits, and to my surprise they were the same instruction, and very poorly done. I've attached the instructions if anyone would like to take a look.
Looked to me like it was translated from another language, probably Japanese.
I'm basing my purchase on a lot of things, and one of them happens to be the fabrication/installation instructions.
Can anyone share with me the BC Coilover instructions?? I contacted the mfg, and they have not disclosed the information yet.
thanks,
joe in SE WI
NISSAN 280Z INSTRUCTION.pdf

I thought I would share some of the progress on my project RoninZ.
Awhile back I wanted to do something different but still make my s30 handle better. Also wanted to find parts easily (cheaply). I asked and search for anyone that had done an s13 IRS swap into the s30 and found some old posts here in HZ and other forums. well I pulled the trigger and canibalized my s13 and put as much parts into the s30. The engine was going in also (sr20det) but that changed which is another topic. Anyway the IRS went in, a lot easier than I thought but, because of engine choice I couldn't use the s13 front suspension, and the z suspension was pitched.
So, this brings me to this topic. I did some research and decided that I wanted to do the Double Wishbone/A-Arm suspension. I went with CA Chassishttps://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1556-a-arm-suspension-4x2-crossmember-custom-fit-factory-welded-crossmember-only.aspx
Here is the crossmember with the disc before install on frame
Here is the top view after install and fenders refabbed.
Here is the A-Arms from underneath
It included a manual rack and pinion
The kit included double adjustable Coilovers and 13"Wilwood brakes (overkill?)
Still at the shop and has not been on the road yet. I am hoping to go on Road courses with this car this summer.
Thanks guys

AS the title states… I'm trying to figure out what size wheel and tire I can fit on my 1974 260z with STOCK suspension. Before I posted this I searched thread after thread and have only been able to find fitment clearances post suspension upgrades whether it be coil overs or different springs.
I have quite a bit of work to do on my Z, however I feel like it deserves a little something something for now so I was looking at purchasing some 16x8 XXR 531 wheels(zero offset). I know they're not the best quality but I can't stand the Iron Cross wheels that my car is sitting on.
So I was wondering
1.) Is it possible to run 16x8s on all 4 corners without issues? I've heard mixed answers both yes and no
2.) How wide of a tire would I be able to fit in the rear and front without any issue?
3.) Could I fit 245 or larger in the rear?
Seriously thank you guys for any help
As to why I chose the 531s….. I really like the look of CCW classics….CCW Classics are super expensive…..XXRs are incredibly cheap as we speak these ones are on sale. I could pick up the entire set for $460 shipped $380 if I liked gold lol. Plus I'll have a little more clearance for bigger brakes and such plus it will at least make it look a bit better. I'm planning some mild power figures but not for quite a while so once I go bigger I'll get higher quality wheels

Hello Hybrid Z
I own an 83' 280zx with a 2jz vvti, its going through a restoration now, I have most parts for the restoration, just missing on suspensions and wheels and it would be done.
I was going to go with the techno toy tuning front coil kit and s13 for the rear, but a friend of mine, told me about accuair, and I kinda kept thinking about them, they looked cool and the idea grew on me. I contacted accuair and they said they don't have a kit for a 280zx just 300zx (90's) and s14.
I saw two people with 280zx accuairs, but unfortunately they didn't reply to me when I asked them how they did it, so I thought I would get help from here, maybe someone knows who did this build or not.
I'm wondering if I get s14 kit the rear would be bolt on, just worried about the front , and I dont know if this would be of relevance but i'll go with watanabe F 16 x 8.5 -5 R 16 x 9.0 -13 .
I also thought of going through the the techno toy suspensions and s13/14 then change the springs to bags maybe..?
Thank you