I fell in love with Paulie's because of Bucatini Amatriciana. I'd been patronizing the fast-casual Montrose restaurant off on and on for years, but it wasn't until that first plate of smoky, piquant pasta that it became a regular stop.

A menu staple since it was created for Paul Petronella by chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan before they opened The Pass & Provisions, this is a slightly unorthodox Amatriciana. It bypasses the traditional cured pork jowl (guanciale) in favor of smoky bacon, lending it a beguilingly complex flavor that belies its scant ingredients list. It relies on fresh cherry tomatoes, bright and bursting, instead of tomato sauce. A splash of red wine vinegar adds a lifting note of acid that keeps the rich flavors from turning heavy.

I've ordered other things at Paulie's since then but always return to the bucatini. There's just something about the spice, the smoke and the tangy zing that calls out to me. I might have to suck in a mouthful of air between each bite, cooling my tongue from the no-punches-pulled heat of the chile flakes in the dish - no matter how many times I order it, the staff always warns me that it's spicy - but the capsaicin high and oxygen saturation only add to the appeal.

Petronella was kind enough to share his recipe recently, which might not have been the most sound business decision. The dish comes together so quickly, so easily and with so few ingredients - many of them pantry staples - that it's destined to become a regular in my home kitchen.

Translator

To read this article in one of Houston's most-spoken languages, click on the button below.

Instructions: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Petronella likes his water to "taste like the ocean."

In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add bacon and cook until slightly crispy, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant and softened, being careful not to burn, one to two minutes.

Deglaze pan with vinegar, scraping up any browned bits sticking to the bottom.

Lower heat to medium-low, add tomatoes and chili flakes, and cover pan. Cook until the tomatoes soften and "burst," releasing their juices into the pan.

While sauce is cooking, drop bucatini into the pot and cook according to package instructions. We recommend testing the pasta at one minute less than indicated on package. Drain pasta, reserving ¼ cup pasta cooking water.

Uncover sauce, add reserved pasta water, raise heat to medium and cook uncovered until sauce thickens slightly. Swirl or stir to combine and emulsify. The sauce is thickened properly when the back of a spoon dragged along the bottom of the pan leaves a slight trail.

Add pasta to pan, toss to combine, making sure to coat each strand. Divide into two warmed bowls and serve immediately, topped with Pecorino Romano cheese.

Note: You want good bacon here, with a pronounced and almost aggressive smokiness. For a saucier result, add more tomatoes.