Car has been sitting since 2007 - started monthly. Runs and drives right now, boosts and moves, the problem is... it won't do any of that until it's almost-full warm. On first startup it revs and runs fine for about 20 seconds. Idles perfect the whole time, but for about two minutes it won't take any throttle. It'll bog off idle and frontfire until it gets above 1500 or so, and miss a little until 3k, then rev out. Runs pretty well after that, though. Drivable and really gets moving once out of first. Never acts like it wants to die. My assumption is WUR based on how it acts before the car is fully warm. However, pouring over the K-jet green book, and over on the Merc/VW/Porsche forums... this isn't really a WUR-type symptom. I have two spares I can rebuild but would like to pin down the issue before throwing parts at it. Thanks!

Recent out-of-hibernation maintenance:

Bosch plugs, cap, rotor, Kingsbourne wires
New fuel filter and pumps, replaced fuel accumulator
All new vacuum lines
New fuel pump relay
Fresh fluids in all holes
Harness was replaced before it was parked

The fuel pressure gauge is connected to the line that goes from the center of the fuel distributor to the WUR. The gauge has a valve to direct the fuel either to the gauge only to read system pressure or to the WUR to read return pressure.

Don't bother checking pump dead head pressure unless you have a gauge that can handle the pressure. System pressure is what's important.

Alright, just poking around and we do not have that setup. Everything I've been able to find regarding kjet fuel pressure kits has led to the tbricks gauge, and a dead JCWHITNEY part number. Has there been an updated kit? Or am i going to be cobbling one together?

It's taken me quite a bit longer than anticipated, but I now have OE Volvo fuel pressure gauges and adapters available for rent. I have kits for K-Jet, LH-Jet without a schrader and LH-Jet with a schrader.

This is the turbo K-Jet set up. I even have the OE Volvo fuel pump bypass relay.

The gauges have recently been calibrated and all the rubber hoses are new.

Yikes! While I value this as an option, and understand the sizable deposit... taking into consideration that I own a damn CIS car, I think it'd behoove me to spend the money on purchasing one. Looking on that Delorean page... they have a permanent control pressure gauge they install. I may go that route, alternatively, they too have the full CIS kit. dl242gt, THANK YOU for that resource.

I need to be sure the gauge comes back, hence the large deposit. I couldn't replace it for $200. The real expense is shipping. The padded container I got from Harbor Freight doesn't fit in a large flat rate box, so USPS wants $30 the ship to the east coast.

I 100% understand! That is a very rare, and specific piece of kit. I think it'd be pretty wise of me to have one on hand, surely I'm going to have more issues as this is going to be in my stable for a long time. I just hope it doesn't keep separating me from all my money.

I originally tried to get better quality fittings from the Texas place, but they got confused when I told them I wanted the same hose barb size for both fittings and then shipped the wrong parts. (Their web pictures/descriptions were also not accurate at the time.)

To use the DIY tester, you need to plumb in a standard fuel pressure gauge, with shutoff, and then replace the whole line from the CPR (awkwardly placed under the manifold) to the cobra/fuel distributor. The nicer Volvo tester lets you tap into just the fuel disti connection without the hassles of accessing the CPR connection, and without the problems of getting it to reseal once done.

Max cost below $54.93. Surly, anyone with the need for and interest in assembling such a tool will have the at least some of the items in their junk box or available at their local JY or Lowes. The gauge and valve are all you have to order on line.

I was thinking about your issue and it will be good to check control pressure. It may be that it is stuck at one pressure so it kind of runs ok warmed up. But it is at too lean of a mixture for cold running because the control pressure is high.

When I bought my turbo in 1995 it had a cold starting issue where it would start and them immediately stall. It would do about six or seven of these in the morning winter startup and then run ok after that. Hot starting was ok. After about six months I had bought my IPD gauge. The control pressure regulator was clogged and control pressure equaled system pressure. So even the warmed up mixture was too lean.

That seems consistent with what I'm experiencing. It starts up in one revolution, will rev like there's no problem for about 15 seconds and then it's acting like there's no fuel. It pops a bit. I wish I had a wideband to see it in real time, I can see the intake cobra pop up as if it's frontfiring which would also indicate that it's lean. After it's initially warmed up, in runs decent. I notice some weird jumps in power in first - It's not smooth at all, it's like there's nothing then EVERYTHING and its at 5k, and I have to shift. Other gears it's perfectly fine.

I'm about to completely part out an 84 242T, so I'll have spare bits and parts to swap about. Ordered the pressure test kit, and talking to the guy about getting the right length lines made to permanently install a gauge for future troubleshooting.

That seems consistent with what I'm experiencing. It starts up in one revolution, will rev like there's no problem for about 15 seconds and then it's acting like there's no fuel. It pops a bit. I wish I had a wideband to see it in real time, I can see the intake cobra pop up as if it's frontfiring which would also indicate that it's lean. After it's initially warmed up, in runs decent. I notice some weird jumps in power in first - It's not smooth at all, it's like there's nothing then EVERYTHING and its at 5k, and I have to shift. Other gears it's perfectly fine.

I'm about to completely part out an 84 242T, so I'll have spare bits and parts to swap about. Ordered the pressure test kit, and talking to the guy about getting the right length lines made to permanently install a gauge for future troubleshooting.

I've seen a VDO electric oil pressure gauge and sending unit listed for use as a fuel pressure gauge.

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