Front screen What are the steps in removing the front screen (and plastic frame) without damage? Also....I would like to remove the entire top section that holds the screen and mirror. I have removed the screws that from the bottom of the screen frame into the base. It's still attatched by a couple of screws that I cannot locate. Any ideas?
Thank you, James

take out the pins that resemble watch pins! remove the stickey label with the
power switch,usb and 5 volt jack cut outs! If you have taken out the screws needed up to this point and you are a little bit technical this should get you into the unit.

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Pop off front speaker grille, there are 1/4" hex screws holding the screen on, and a connector that needs to be disconnected first. The 1/4" hex screws in the back and sides along the mid section also need to be removed, then the entire top lifts off - be careful, the screen separates from the black plastic part (you might want to lift off the front screen first, that way you can be sure you have all the screws removed.) There was the black power section that was screwed in that needed to be wiggled off first, then the top just slides off easily. Easy to clean and reinstall by putting the black part on first, then sliding the screen up, over, then down onto the black plastic part. Replace all screws and reconnect the connector.

The entire screen unit can be removed but first remove rear cover and look at the lens--clean with a lens cloth etc----peek up inside and look at the mirror--if not dirty or smudged just clean the lens.

removing the screen with its frame can be tricky--easy to damage the screens etc. Removal usually requires front speaker grill to be removed first---most just pull off but a few are secured from rear by some screws.

With it off look to see if at bottom of screen there are a row of screws--if the entire front unit can be removed it will pull out at bottom and be snapped in place.

A better suggestion is look at rear of set above back cover--if the upper part is plastic--it with the back removed can also be removed--careful as mirror is bolted into it---that way you can clean the mirror and get at the lens for the tubes without trying to remove screen unit--some of the smaller sets this is the ONLY way to get at the mirror.

Yes a number of screws but if plastic upper rear comes out with mirror much easier and safer way.

The paper jam you had probably lifted the long, thin, plastic encoder strip in the pathway out of its slot, giving the false indication of a paper jam. In order to put it back in its place, please carry out the following steps:

1) Lift the cover and remove the two plastic panels covering wires. Mark down the position of cables, then remove them, and remove the now-freed top scannersection entirely.

2) Remove the screws from the top plastic shell. There's two in the back and four in the front. There's also two plastic tabs in the front that must be bent aside before you can remove the top shell.

3) Gently put the encoder strip back in its plastic guide, and check if you are able to get your printer to work all right thereafter.

If you are not comfortable carrying out the steps, I would strongly suggest you to have it repaired by your local Brother service center, without causing further complications.

2 types. If wooden top rail of screen surround: remove end screws of top rail by removing caps over screws on upper front sides. Remove the two screws. Remove top wooden screen bezel piece. Now pull up and out screens.
If sceen surround is plastic one-piece all-around: remove speaker grill board. Remove screws along lower front of screen bezel. Pull bottom of screen bezel out a 1/2 inch. Lift up on screen bezel to remove entire screen assembly.

to remove the screen.... the front plastic bezel needs to be removed first.... Remove the rubber screw covers on the front of screen frame... then remove the screws.
then use a plastic tool...like a credit card, start at a corner and pull the front bezel towards you .. you need to unsnap the plastic bezel... it is held on by snap locks all the way around it... Pull the front bezel frame off...

then there are screws on each side of the screen holding it to the hinge post rails.... Unscrew them.... Tilt the screen forward from the top...

Unplug the Display cable (it is taped on at the plug port..... pull tape downward)
then unplug the LCD bulb Cable from the inverter...

CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Remove and discard nuts retaining stabilizer bar link (5K484) assembly to front stabilizer bar (5482) and front shock absorber (18124) with an 8 mm closed-end wrench and an 18 mm open-end wrench.

CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber and to front stabilizer bar, making sure that the stabilizer bar link is properly positioned. The letters "Top LH" and "Top RH" are moulded into the stabilizer bar link for correct assembly to the front shock absorber strut.

The Capacitors on the power board are usually the reason for failure of an LCD. If you open the HP VS17 ( I can provide an exhaustive step by step If I have to) remove the five screws for the power board ( larger of the two boards) and look for an area where there are 4 caps (see pic). Look for exploded, popped up, bulging, or leaking caps and replace with the same or slightly higher tolerances. The one I replaced last night were (2x )1000uf25-50volt and (2x) 470uf25-50volt. Check the rest of the board for similar issues and replace as needed.

Once you follow the youtube instructions to remove the inside cover you are ready for the next step.
Remove the six small screws that are adjacent to the window. After this the front plastic is held in only by plastic clips to the metal door. The plastic clips and the screws together hold this together.

Remove the entire door by lifting up and move it to a flat service. If the top vent cover prevents this just remove the two screws on top of the microwave and pull the vent cover off.

With the door lying flat you can pull the plastic frame out on top and bottom and see how the clips work. Now just work you way around the frame until it separates.

this machine is accessed from the front. take two control panel screws off flip up panel. unclip lid switch connection. take screwdriver and insert vertically in front of gold clips pry by pushing handle to rear of machine. rotate entire housing toward you . to reassemble ensure front lip of cabinet goes UNDER forward edge of frame

you can remove the protector and the tv will work fine, they all come off a little differently however. I would start with removing the speaker grille and see if there are screws along the bottom of the screen frame. If so you can probably remove them and lift up un the entire frame it will be on hangers mounted on the sides. Once you get the frame off you will see how the screens are mounted inside with brackets. If not, some of the RCA's you would actually remove the wooden top of the TV and slide the screens out from the top. In this case you will see two things. 1) a couple of screws near the top of the TV on the sides possible hidden with a plastic screw cover. 2) on the back of the TV at the top you will see two metal tabs/slots that almost look like hinges. Remove the screws and lift the top from the front and it will pivit out of the tabs on the back. Then you have your screens exposed on the top and slide them out. Good luck!