Tek BHO: BEST way to purge without vacuum?

I must have watched 15 videos and read a bunch of threads and there is always negativity in every video and in every thread. There is always someone who says that this is the wrong way to do it and you should be doing it like this.

Does anyone know of the best way to really do it without a vacuum? I figured someone on this forum has a great method?

Guess it has been mentioned before, but spraying directly into alcohol gets rid of the butane. Then it is only a matter of evaping the alcohol using the biggest surface area possible. The material has to be spread out as thin as possible to facilitate easy evaping of the alcohol.

Guess it has been mentioned before, but spraying directly into alcohol gets rid of the butane. Then it is only a matter of evaping the alcohol using the biggest surface area possible. The material has to be spread out as thin as possible to facilitate easy evaping of the alcohol.

Be safe...

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This ^^^

Spray/pour the butane into everclear or iso, only use the latter if you can't get your hands on high proof grain alcohol. The butane will evaporate long before the alcohol does.

I don't know about 'best', but my last run was totally clear/amber shatter w/o a vac.

I did a typical butane extraction into mason jars w/ a qp of trim. When the butane was mostly evaporated, but not thick, I slowly added 1/2 bottle of everclear (1bottle/half pound) to the mason jars. You should see a pretty dramatic interaction (bubbling). Let sit for about 1/2 hour (w/ just an occasional stir) till all bubbling stops. Now wait, and in about 1/2 hour the real interaction (winterization) will start (quite visible 'roiling'). place in freezer for 12 hours. After 12 hours, remove from freezer and strain off into individual glass containers w/ coffee filters, return to freezer while straining. To make shatter, you must do thin pours (thick pours = budder), so you only want about 2" of liquid in a pounder glass as each of these glasses will be an individual pour.

At this point, you should prepare your stovetop to evap the mixture. I used pots of water w/ pyrex dishes on top (kind of double boiler method). I had 2 setups going, if you stagger pours you can keep the operation flowing smoothly. I tried to keep the water below any real boil - just the bubbles that appear at the bottom of the pan. At this time, you also want to make sure your scraping setup is prepared. I laid out a piece of parchment paper w/ lots of clean razor blades.

Take out 1 of the glasses from freezer and remove filter (all the fats, etc will be visibe on filter). pour into pyrex dish on hot water. the mixture will go cloudy, then clear, then form beads of oil (about 15-30 min). After totally clear and beaded, take a blade and 'smush' down all of the beads and return to heat for 20 min to get any last trapped impurities. Once you figure out your timing, you can start a 2nd pyrex dish (on a 2nd pot of water) partway through the 1st 1 finishing.

Now it's time to collect your goodies. Using individual blades to collect the oil, scrape pyrex from one end to the other. When blade is loaded, place on parchment paper to cool. This process is much easier to do if you keep the pyrex on heat to make the product more pliable. After just a minute, you should be able to 'snap' the glass off of one blade w/ another to start your pile of absolute shatter. Be careful not to lift and relower the blade while scraping as this will cause visual imperfections.

This is what I did, but recommend anybody evaluate safety concerns/applicable laws for themselves. I had a return of 14 grams off of a qp of trim. There is a pic of the finished product in 'share that dab stash'. It's the one that looks kinda like hashbrowns due to the individual scrapes.

Yes it is. And yes you can if you want to winterize it. I only do that with oils made for vaporglobe purposes (e-cig with ceramic cup). Oils for dabbing I just evap the alcohol. Winterizing looses some terpenes and as such will affect flavor in a negative way in my experience....

Definitely more work than w/ a vac, but a surefire way to get clean absolute shatter w/o a vac. ime, you can't get clear shatter w/o a vac unless you winterize - but yes, you do lose some terps when filtering the waxes and lipids. It takes the same time to do the butane extraction, a 12 hr freeze where you do nothing but wait and less than 2 hrs to turn a qp into 14g of shatter. Not how I always do runs, but the best way I've found to guarantee shatter w/o vac.

I don't have a vacuum so I just use a low-temp oven purge for my BHO runs (small scale, <1g oil).

Prior to blasting I preheat the pyrex dish in the oven (lowest setting, 170F). This allows the liquid butane to evaporate much faster. Once the liquid is gone, I move the pan to the oven and turn the temp on and off every 10 minutes for about an hour. I feel 170 is too hot, so turning the oven off every 10 minutes lowers the average temp. I also leave the oven door cracked while it's on. This method doesn't always result in shatter, but you will get tasty, well-purged oil.

I prefer winterizing for vac less purging as well. Snake's method is pretty much how I do it. You definitely lose some terpenes/flavor and some weight from your final yield but I'm happy to make that trade off for such a well purged product without a vac. The end result is a smooth hitting and very clean burning shatter. Works great in vape pens without gunking up the coil too bad and dabs extremely smooth. This video does a pretty good job of outlining the process..

I prefer winterizing for vac less purging as well. Snake's method is pretty much how I do it. You definitely lose some terpenes/flavor and some weight from your final yield but I'm happy to make that trade off for such a well purged product without a vac. The end result is a smooth hitting and very clean burning shatter. Works great in vape pens without gunking up the coil too bad and dabs extremely smooth. This video does a pretty good job of outlining the process..

I also have no vacuum. I float the extract in a container of warm water. Not hot water just warm enough to keep the BHO soft. Water temp between 100-140. What I do is extract into a glass pie pan, float that in the warm water for a few hours. The winterization is a better and more complete purge.

Considering I live in texas and its usually around 90-105 degrees, when I was doing runs and didnt have a vac I would just throw the glass plate I sprayed on up on my roof for about 4-5 days with a clear cover on top and every single time Id get nice smooth shatter that never hissed, sparked, or sizzled. Just a nice clean burn.

...seriously...considering the amount of ethanol we will use to purge what not just use as extraction solvent...???...(eh)

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a valid point and one I would have to agree with. Also, you should check out amazon for a vac and chamber, with how popular it is becoming for people to make their own extracts the prices for complete set-ups has become very affordable.

Because Butane works as a better solvent for cannabinoids, from herb. Because it extracts less of the stuff you don't want, chlorophyl and other stuff, from the plant.

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x2. Butane is non polar, Alcohol is polar. Butane extracts better with only a few waxes and a tiny bit of water making it thorough to the batch.
Then by using alcohol you precipitate the polar waxes and fats, lipids and even a bit of chlorophyll. The rest of the Chloro if any can be removed with UV.
Same reason you don't shake a QWISO batch more than a few seconds or it ends up green and bitter. Alcohol + Chlorophyll = eeeewwwwww!
Ethanol is less aggressive than ISO or Hexane and easier to vape off without heat thereby leaving more terpenes intact.
Hexane's a bitch to work with without a seperatory funnel, saline and tons of patience and even maybe a bit of heat with a horrible smell as it vapes off which takes forever. Done wrong, it's downright toxic.
My siggestion would be to invest 2-300 dollars in a cheap vac PUMP, not hand pump, setup and a hotplate. You'll be so much happier with the results and control you'll have over consistency and flavor.

I don't have a vacuum so I just use a low-temp oven purge for my BHO runs (small scale, <1g oil).

Prior to blasting I preheat the pyrex dish in the oven (lowest setting, 170F). This allows the liquid butane to evaporate much faster. Once the liquid is gone, I move the pan to the oven and turn the temp on and off every 10 minutes for about an hour. I feel 170 is too hot, so turning the oven off every 10 minutes lowers the average temp. I also leave the oven door cracked while it's on. This method doesn't always result in shatter, but you will get tasty, well-purged oil.

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So is that the process? I have tried with like a 10 grams of grinned bud with terrible results. I believe no purging is what causes it to be so bad.

When I did it I sprayed the butane onto the pyrex, that was sitting on top of another pyrex that had almost boiling water in it. It bubbled and there was gold oil left, from there I just fucked up, too hot I think turned into crumble and tasted chemically.

So, to be clear, once the pyrex has all of the butane evaporated, pop the bubbles, and place it in the oven at 170, with the door cracked, but turn it off ever ten minutes? for how long? How do you know when it is ready? This is why it sucks living where it is illegal, and hard to get!!!!

So is that the process? I have tried with like a 10 grams of grinned bud with terrible results. I believe no purging is what causes it to be so bad.

When I did it I sprayed the butane onto the pyrex, that was sitting on top of another pyrex that had almost boiling water in it. It bubbled and there was gold oil left, from there I just fucked up, too hot I think turned into crumble and tasted chemically.

So, to be clear, once the pyrex has all of the butane evaporated, pop the bubbles, and place it in the oven at 170, with the door cracked, but turn it off ever ten minutes? for how long? How do you know when it is ready? This is why it sucks living where it is illegal, and hard to get!!!!

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I've had a vacuum for almost a year now and have to say it makes for a significant difference in oil quality. With a vac you can get away with temps as low as 100-120° and get clean tasty shatter, thanks to the negative pressure. Without the vac, you need higher temps to help remove as much butane as possible. However 170°, the lowest setting on most ovens, is hotter than ideal. At that temp you'll be approaching the decarboxylation threshold (where THCA converts to THC (the psychoactive component)), especially since many ovens run hot.

You want to shoot for 150~165°. It'll prob take around 45-60 min to fully purge at those temps. You can check the purge readiness by observing the bubbles: larger, more uneven bubbles are from butane- you want to keep purging until these are gone. Smaller, more even bubbles are from C02 and a sign your oil is being decarbed. Stop purging at this point, or you'll likely end up with unstable and bland-tasting oil.

Ive found winterizing to strip terps more than a good low heat purge, but to each their own. Up to 4g ill heat purge in pyrex, more than that and it cant get thin enough on the plate. Also, just tried stok fyre tane on 2 differnt runs, and even on the stuff that usually finishes sappy is stable shatter @ 120 f.

Edit: normally running newport or puretane, stok took a while longer to purge, but stability is outstanding.