That depends on the application. It's fine for small jobs. I use it mainly on coiled and fold-over cord ends for extra security. I also like GS Hypo Cement because it comes with a very fine nozzle for detail work.

But I didn't have much success with gluing glass cabochons to metal findings using E-6000. It just isn't strong enough to hold heavier items especially for rings where the wear and tear is considerable.

Way back in 2005, one jewelry making forum member actually did an experiment where she tested 6 different types of glues (E-6000, Crafter's Goop, Weldbond, Omni Stick, Boat Life/Life Seal and Gorilla Glue) on glass cabochon ear studs. Her test include wriggling the glass cabochons to try and get them off the studs. In her test, E-6000 held on to the glass only 50% of the time. Crafter's Goop came out best but the failure rate was still 1 in 4.

According to Wikipedia, Araldite has been used in construction (Coventry Cathedral, Sydney Opera House) and in tram manufacturing. This excerpt describes their clever advertising campaign :

Image by Danny McL via Flickr"In 1983, British advertising agency FCO Univas set up a visual stunt presentation of the strength of Araldite by gluing a yellow Ford Cortina to a billboard on Cromwell Road, London, with the tagline "It also sticks handles to teapots. "

Later, to demonstrate more of its strength, a red identical Ford Cortina was placed on top of the yellow Cortina, with the tagline "The tension mounts. " Finally, the car was removed from the billboard, leaving a hole on the billboard and a tagline "How did we pull it off? "

If it really holds a car or two, glass cabochon applications will be easy with Araldite! This glue is marketed in the UK and can be purchased through the Amazon UK. Or contact the North American division of Huntsman to ask if they have a list of local suppliers.

Another forum suggestion is Amazing Goop which is available as one part or two part adhesives. Two part adhesives consist of the resin which must be combined or reacted with the accelerator in order to become a glue. One part adhesives offer convenience. The two part types though will ensure the glue is really "fresh" when you use it.

Other products to consider are - Scotch Weld DP460 and Dymax 621.

Some things to consider when choosing a glue :

what you are using it for

strength

durability

whether it dries clear or not - a big issue if you are using clear glass

working time - a glue that sets too fast will not be useful if you need time to adjust your design

paintability- if that's important to you

safety - some glues need to be used in well-ventilated areas because solvents are given off during the curing process

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42 comments:

The Beading Gem must read minds! I was just looking at a design in a new book I bought. I will need to glue a cabochon to backing and was wondering what glue I would use (this was about 15 minutes before I read this blog). I tried using E-6000 to glue a bezel to a glass pendant I made. It didn't hold. A glass expert told me to try "Triolyse" glue. I haven't tried it yet. Does anyone have any experience with it?

Good point reg selection of glue. But unfortunately none of the glues that you mentioned is available here. we get only super glue anabond,quick fix, white adhesive,fabric glue & rubber adhesive. So on behalf of many people like me,here is a request for you (and other experts/bloggers) to mention the kind of glue and not its name while mentioning it in a project so that people like me can find an alternate/equivalent for it where we live

Make friends with a lamp work artist! Some may be glad of scrap glass. I have come across a lamp work artist whose work includes recycled glass. I will be featuring her in the future.

If it is sterling silver or solid gold beads, perhaps copper, save them until you've got enough to sell for smelters. If they are not precious metals, it might be worth checking with your recycling depot if they will take them. Same with glass if you can't find a lamp work artist near you.

My favorite glue for jewelry making by far is Weldbond. It will stick almost anything to anythings, is polymer clay safe, doesn't smell and keeps it bond for years. I have tried many glues for many applications including most on your list, and Weldbond is definitely my favorite.

Great post about a perplexing issue. So many different types of adhesives on the market and they're each made for specific purposes. Some are flexible, some are hard and brittle, some are instant setting, some take hours to cure, some are low viscosity (so they don't leave a space between the objects being joined) while others are high viscosity (these are great for filling in gaps and cracks), then there are water based, solvent based, two part epoxies and on and on. One almost needs an encyclopedia all about adhesives. Would be a great idea but I guess since there are always new adhesives hitting the market the book would soon be outdated. :(

One of my favorite adhesives is a two part epoxy that Rio Grande carries but I found it had a very short shelf life and lost it's curing ability after a few months. At $20 for the set (a bottle of resin and a bottle of catalyst) it got a bit expensive to replace every few months.

2-part epoxy resins are the way to go for those jobs that have a small contact area and the need for good bond strength.However, there is a consideration that is mostly forgotten by users that is usually in the instructions. That is; the full-strength time is much-much longer than the cure-time.

As an example, 5-minute epoxy is great for most jobs. It is workable for 2-3 minutes and 'seems' to form a strong bond after one hour. However, even with this "fast" adhesive, the full-strength time is only achieved after 24 hours.Other 2-part adhesives have similar multiplied full-strength times. Be aware of this and do not stress the bond until the full-strength time is past.

My favorite glues are E-6000 and G-S Hypo cement. I use the Hypo Cement to glue ends of cords strings and leather on necklaces and bracelets. I also like to use both to hold metals together when making earrings and for applying rhinestones. It is important to rough up both sides of the areas you will be gluing together plastics and metals to get the best bond. Cleaning off oils from the areas to be glued helps too. The G-S Hypo cement is more fluid while E-6000 is a thicker glue It comes in black and white color and in transparent clear. I also like that the Hypo cement has a fine needle size tip for detail work or applying glue into tight spaces making gluing a cleaner easier process. I find that epoxy and resin is good for glass effect to encapsulate images or art work items onto bezels. If you really want to adhear metals together itd be a good idea to look into soldering techniques.

I'm starting to make the vintage jewlery bracelets. I'm wanting a top quality adhesive that is guaranteed not to fall off, move, anything! I have E6000 but I'm not sure if this is the best for my bracelets. I will be using bracelet blanks and old vintage earring. Is the E6000 not going to guarantee me the security I'm looking for in a super glue? If not what would the highest top quality one I should be using. Thanks Stacy

Stacy, E6000 is fine to use so long as you keep it fresh by making sure you stopper the tube up properly. I recommend you get small tubes so you replenish it more frequently.

2 part epoxy glues are also good because you have to mix them just before use which means they are freshly made and will bond well.

Recently I have been having great success with Super New Glue (different from the usual super glue which is notorious for getting brittle) - I get it from Goody Beads. It's what I use for thick European leather bracelets - holds really well.

Two part commercial adhesives will guarantee the strongest bonds but they are more difficult to use since they have to be mixed and cured. Also surface prep will improve your bonds. Try a light abrasion of the two mating surfaces followed by a solvent (acetone) rinse. Be careful not to touch the mating surfaces since oils in your hand will affect the bond. Typical items such as Q-tips actually contaminate bonding surfaces since they are saturated with cotton seed oil.

So many new things I have learned! I think poor prep work on some rings I glued with 2 part epoxy may have been the culprit. Roughing things up and cleaning with a solvent are 2 steps I didn't do. I will certainly be more careful with my prep work in the future. I just got a bottle of Super New Glue from Amazon. If I were making a beading order, I'm sure it would have been less expensive from a jewelry supply house. I wanted it NOW to try it out, and haven't decided share to start.

I must at I have used Weldbond on mosaics and it's been wonderful for that. There's also some new glue called Rhino Glue, which I wonder if anyone has tried. I've had horrid luck with Gorilla Glue drying out quickly in the bottle several times. One had good luck with E6000 and GS Hypo Cement for light jobs, but wouldn't use on most rings.

I find Super New Glue great for all kinds of applications - attaching cords to end caps. Even gluing the unraveling ends of some kinds of cords. It is liquid enough to seep through the cords whereas E6000 is too viscous for that. Thanks for the tip on Weldbond. I will have to look out for that!

I also like using super glue, very good in end caps, as long as you have everything prepared, as the material can swell and sets very quick. A touch of nail polish on the knot for elastic bracelets helps.

I'm very much a novice at jewellery making and wonder if I could pick some brains? I've tried various adhesives for attaching dichroic glass cabs to various bails and other findings with varying amounts of success. I've used G-S Hypo cement to bond semi-precious cabs to sterling silver and this has worked well so far but it's not so great with the glass. E6000 works on some pieces with glass but not others which points to my technique being at fault. I spend a lot of time tidying up and leaving no visible traces of adhesive on my pieces and I wonder if this is the problem. This is no doubt a stupid question but is slight excess necessary to ensure a better fix in which case I'm compromising my own work by being too pernickety about appearance of the underside of items?? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated- thanx.

That is absolutely true that one glue doesn't fit all applications. It is very very difficult to be neat with E6000 and that kind of viscous glue. Maybe use less?

Try Super New Glue - not the same formulation as the regular Super Glue. It is liquid so it seeps into porous material like cords, is very strong and durable. While you can get a darker stain with the glue on the material, you won't get those ugly blobs as you do with the other types of glue. Works well with glass too. A little goes a long way.

I am an assemblage jewelry artist altering vintage jewelry. I am in desperate need of an adhesive that will bond metal to metal. One of my designs are attaching vintage brooched and old clip earrings to metal hair combs and bobby pins. I have used E6000 in the past but it does not hold. Currently I am using Loctite. It's better but not great. I even rough up both the jewel back and the comb/pins AND clamp for 25 hours. I was told soldering doesn't work for vintage jewelry. I like to apply the jewels at an angle on the comb so the comb can't be easily glide into hair.

Try using 2 part epoxy adhesives. These are freshly made so the hold should be better. But I think as you are using vintage brooches etc which are heavier, you might be better off wiring the pieces down if you can. See this past post -http://www.beadinggem.com/2012/05/how-to-make-wire-wrapped-hair-comb.html

Another suggestion I have is to consider using resin clay. This is an air dry clay with a work time of about 2-3 hours before it hardens. Resin clay is also an adhesive so you can embed the brooches and earrings you use. Check it out! Hope these help.

Hello,I have used many glues over the years. I have used E6000 at times but by far my favourite glue is Goop (not Craft Goop) I must have gone through 3 dozen tubes over the years. It will glue just about anything permanently. In order to get the best performance out of this glue you need to make sure you lightly sand the surfaces and make the surface is very clean, wipe down with rubbing alcohol. Then apply the glue with a toothpick in small areas or a palette knife in larger spots. Be generous and wipe away excess. Most important............leave the item for a full 24 hours. Resist touching the glued pieces for that length of time and you will be very pleased with the results. Other than fabric glue, Goop is the only glue in my studio.

Great post. What type and brand adhesive do you recommend for making pearl stud earrings or pearl drop pendants. The pearls are one-hole-drilled freshwater of various sizes. The findings are 92.5 silver or 24 KT gold vermeil. I have tried BeadFX and hypo cement without success. I was going to try my E6000, but the relatively new tube was all dried up. Before I start ordering all kinds of glue, I did an internet search and found your amazing website. Great tips and techniques. I sell my jewelry to stores and do not want to ruin my reputation with falling-apart earrings. What do you suggest?Thank-you

E6000 is fine to use - a lot of people like it. Be sure to buy small tubes so you don't waste a whole big tube if it dried. The fresher the glue, the better. Or go with a 2 part type of glue - you mix it up fresh every time. My current favorite is Super New Glue (not the same formulation as the regular super glue). Great stuff. My Regaliz leather and clasp bracelets have held up for years.

PS. IMHO Using Super New Glue for your half drilled pearls will work much better than E6000. That is because the former is a liquid glue and will easily seep into the hole unlike E6000. Just avoid getting any on your fingers!!

How safe is araldite for adhesion on earrings etc though? I know the glue *shouldn't* come anywhere near the piercing, but I'm a fan of erring on the side of caution. (Selley's sells Araldite in Australia; you can find it in several varieties at hardware stores. I use the Super Clear, but they also make a super strong version.)

Could someone recommend a glue for thick cotton braid cord (6mm) into aluminium tubing. The cord is looped back into the tube to make a loop for holding chunky wood beads. It's already quite a tight fit and holds ok as it is, but obviously needs gluing.

As mentioned in the comments and more recently on my blog, Super New Glue (not the regular Super Glue) is the best for that kind of application. Very strong. It is best to put a drop inside the metal cap and then insert the braid.

Thank you Pearl! I just found a supplier of the Super New Glue (in UK) and will try it out. I've also tested Gorilla Epoxy, it works well but very messy. I'd like to avoid glues that are too gloopy or viscous as it's hard to apply thinly and the excess tends to go everywhere.