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Hue Oi is a Vietnamese restaurant in Fountain Valley. It has quickly cemented its reputation as one among a short list of respected Hue cuisine specialists--with Quan Hy and Ngu Binh--places that, at the very least, serves those delicate, button-cute Jell-O shots of steamed rice-flour batter sprinkled with minced shrimp, fried onion and scallions called banh beo, as well as bun bo hue, the signature noodle soup of the region. Hue Oi's bun bo hue immediately distinguishes itself as one of the most advanced bowls of noodle soup in Little Saigon. It contains not only the customary cubes of pork blood cake, slices of tender braised beef shank and morsels of steamed pork mousse, but also a bone-in, skin-on, fat-rimmed cross-section of pork leg that resembles a CT scan of, well, a pork leg. But if you happen to look even the slightest bit squeamish, the waiter will ask you if you wouldn't rather leave it out or if you'd prefer the pho, which, by the way, is just as wonderful. Order both--if not on the same visit, then the next one.

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During my third visit to Hue Oi, the block around Fountain Valley's Mile Square Park experienced a blackout. Stoplights weren't functioning. The traffic on Brookhurst was a snarled mess even by Little Saigon standards. But Hue Oi fo...