Tuesday, January 26, 2010

After last season’s mix of Russian techno and denim, the autumn winter collection from Rick Owens was a bit of a surprise, albeit a pleasant one. For his Friday lunchtime show just south of the Seine, the American designer tried out his tailoring skills. And even though he claims this was just a fad, it was an impressive suit effort from Owens.

His androgynous models wore formal coats, some in slight silver or golden shades, and often over a turtleneck jumper. Other models appeared to be wearing a male version of halter neck tops, and others preserved Owens’ mojo by showing a bare and sexy back.

Just because denim was out this season didn’t mean leather followed suit. We saw jackets and coats in leather - which is Rick Owens’ trademark material – and often they came out in brown, black or beige colours. Layering and Owens’ characteristic play with the length of garments also persisted, ditto his love for of fur. But even though we were treated to a surprisingly mature collection, there were clear signs of the old forward pushing designer we have come to love; duvet jackets and platform boots in snakeskin made everyone leave in an even better mood.

DD: What was your source of inspiration this time around?Rick Owens: This season was about opulence for me. I’ve focused on austerity for the past men’s season, which I’ll probably go back to soon…

DD: It was rather a tailored collection for you, wasn’t it?Rick Owens: Yes, last season was such and indulgence in denim, and this one was more of a library.

DD: Library?Rick Owens: Tweeds and cigars. It had a country manor feeling to it.

DD: Do you feel it was a mature collection because of all the tailoring?Rick Owens: It’s a mature option, not a mature direction. I will always have my leather! And also it’s a great challenge – you don’t normally think of Rick Owens when you see tailoring. A like a challenge to react to, it’s a good base for a collection.

DD: There were a few quite sexy pieces though – like the bare back tops…Rick Owens: Yeah, well you know, tailoring can get boring. You gotta put a bit of sex into it!

DD: Any favourite pieces from the show?Rick Owens: I’m going to be wearing the black tailored coat made out of silk and wool all winter long!