I cut into the rails when I use the tracksaw. The first cut you make with the saw will leave a groove into the rails (and into whatever bench top you put between the rails). After that, the saw will always follow the same groove. The idea is to ajust the saw depth for every new cut so that it fits the depth of the workpiece. That way it won't cut too deep into the rails.

I like that the EZ-ONE includes so-called "Depth Stop" which is used to check for the correct blade depth BEFORE running the saw along the guide rail. The idea is that with the material in place, with the saw power OFF, you have to adjust the saw's blade depth before the cut, you check to confirm that the blade don't fall below the top of the Depth Stop. If the blade is below the depth stop you will cut deeper into the cross rails. If you're constantly cutting 3/4" plywood, then I suppose you can cut without checking, but you'd better beware when cutting thinner material (cutting thicker material is really no harm - just doesn't cut all the way through).

When I bought my used EZ-ONE the Depth Stop had a slice through the top. Oops!

The is the exact same concept as the protective rail that runs above vehicles well before low bridges, parking garages, and drive-up windows. "If you crunch your vehicle roof into this rail, then stop before going further!!"

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, here is a video that explains quite well:

I like that the EZ-ONE includes so-called "Depth Stop" which is used to check for the correct blade depth BEFORE running the saw along the guide rail. The idea is that with the material in place, with the saw power OFF, you have to adjust the saw's blade depth before the cut, you check to confirm that the blade don't fall below the top of the Depth Stop. If the blade is below the depth stop you will cut deeper into the cross rails. If you're constantly cutting 3/4" plywood, then I suppose you can cut without checking, but you'd better beware when cutting thinner material (cutting thicker material is really no harm - just doesn't cut all the way through).

When I bought my used EZ-ONE the Depth Stop had a slice through the top. Oops!

The is the exact same concept as the protective rail that runs above vehicles well before low bridges, parking garages, and drive-up windows. "If you crunch your vehicle roof into this rail, then stop before going further!!"

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, here is a video that explains quite well:

You can reset the depth stop. Is good for few "crashes.
then, you can always make a new stop using colored materials...is better.
If you see any colored plastic...keep it to make few.
One of the ez things ...
It sets the correct depth by 1/4" bellow the wood or any materials.

to go even further....with another ez thing....
If you have any bad edges, keep them for different blades and bevels.
One roll of self adhesive tape (plastic) can be used to re-new your edges.
without buying new one's and pay $10-15.00 for shipping in top of it.
Looks like we have to re-start the RE-Learning part of ez.
thanks for your post and link.

Many industrial tapes can do the job.
I ordered few samples and they all work.

The edges are made from special blend ( soft PVC)
everything sticks to it.

Any flat and thin tape will do the re-newall of the edges and provide antichip
protection at a fraction of the cost of ez-edges, packaging and shipping without any damage and unlimited lengths.

Not Magic. Just a simple solution.
and when u need Non skid tape is best to use the 1/2" strips at the edges and not in the aluminum. Very messy to remove.
easier to remove the entire edge.

I stried a prototype from futuristic designs and the track-edges and bases
will be more versatile and without the ridges .
Again, only backwards comparable solutions and designs will be offered.
with the help of 2 NJ Universities ( Makes Space) we're on to something.
I think is time to give ez away in the hands of new to woodworking people.
colleges, high schools, universities and trade schools ( vocational)
are open to it.