Cheap Eats 2010: Eamonn’s

Why go: If an Irish chip shop came out of a Restoration Hardware catalog, it might look like this. The dark-wood fixtures are buffed to a high gloss, but Dublin-born chef/owner Cathal Armstrong—also behind nearby Restaurant Eve—keeps it real. His menu of fried fare is served one way: in a paper bag, to be eaten at communal tables.

What to get: The Codwich—crisply battered cod served hot, slathered with tartar sauce, and stuffed into a crusty roll; fried cod or slightly milder and sweeter fried grouper; mayo-soaked coleslaw; Kitty O’Shea and Marie Rose sauces for dipping.

Best for: Meals on the run; a pint of Smithwick’s and a snack; late-night eats (it’s open till midnight on weekends).

Insider tip: PX, the terrific Deco-era speakeasy from the same team, is just around the corner; to reserve one of the 32 seats, click here.

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.