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Foils for the Heat

Eric Asimov, the wine critic for The New York Times, suggests a drink pairing for one of the week’s recipes.

I love the vibrant freshness and balance of Vietnamese food. The characteristic herbal flavors and mild chile heat place it among the easier Asian cuisines to enjoy with wine.

The lime, garlic and earthy fish sauce in the seasonings suggest a wine that can stand up to their pungency, like a lively sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or the Loire Valley, or a well-balanced, peppery grüner veltliner from Austria. And, of course, you could do a lot worse than Champagne.