Forget the new Cold War brewing between Russia and the rest of the world. There's another, more pressing stoush frothing up in industry circles – the Prosecco War between Australia and Italy.

In dispute: the freedom to use the name "prosecco". At stake: a rapidly expanding market worth hundreds of millions of dollars for sparkling wines with "prosecco" on the label.

"We believe we have a legal right to use the name," says Tony Battaglene, chief executive of the Winemakers' Federation of Australia. "And we are going to defend our position to the hilt."

What's in a name? "If we roll over on prosecco, where will it stop?" asks Australian winemaker Michael Dal Zotto. Supplied

"It's the fastest growing wine style in Australia," says winemaker Michael Dal Zotto, whose father, Otto, was the first to plant prosecco commercially in his vineyard in Victoria's King Valley in 1999. "We have been busy lobbying federal politicians so they don't overlook us in negotiations with the European Union. It's important to understand this is the thin end of the wedge. If we roll over on prosecco, where will it stop?"

As you're surely aware if you've visited a bottle shop or glanced at a restaurant wine list in the past decade or so, sparkling prosecco has become hugely popular worldwide, both drunk on its own and as an essential ingredient in the seemingly ubiquitous Aperol spritz. In Britain, prosecco's rise has been meteoric. Sales grew from one million bottles in 2006 to more than 60 million in 2016 and Italian prosecco, almost unbelievably, now outsells French champagne.

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Boom times for prosecco

In Australia, the market is also booming. Year-on-year growth is 50 per cent, with prosecco sales now worth $66 million and tipped to grow to $200 million by 2020.

Following the Dal Zottos' lead, a growing number of Australian winemakers have been producing sparkling wines labelled prosecco since the late 2000s. And from the very first vintage they've all called their wine prosecco, because the grape variety they make it with is called prosecco – at least, it was when it was first imported as vine cuttings into this country in the 1990s.

The problem is that, in 2009, the Italian wine industry changed the game. In response to rising global demand, the Italians not only decided that the word "prosecco" would henceforth refer solely to a "controlled denomination of origin" – that is, it became a legally protected regional name, like "champagne" – but also dramatically increased the size of the region where prosecco could be produced, allowing a rush of new plantings. In a further attempt to distinguish the grape from the region (and to stop anyone else, like upstart Aussie winemakers, from cashing in on the boom), the Italians also changed the official name of the prosecco variety itself to the rather unappetising "glera".

The Italians claimed this meant everyone else in the world – such as upstart Aussie winemakers – had to stop calling their prosecco "prosecco". And not just on bottles sold in Italy and other European markets, but in domestic markets, too.

Rebellious spirit prevails

In true-blue rebellious Aussie fashion, those upstart winemakers have responded by comprehensively ignoring the Italians. They are planting more vineyards with the grape they still call prosecco, and producing ever-increasing quantities of sparkling wine with "prosecco" on the label.

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The winemakers' argument – and it's a pretty solid one – is that when the grape variety came into this country, its name was prosecco. Just because the Italians have changed the name doesn't mean Australia has to.

"It's a bit like the French deciding to stop everyone using 'chardonnay' by creating a region called Chardonnay – and then changing the name of the chardonnay grape to something else," says Dal Zotto.

Australian winemakers argue (and again, you can see their point), that changing the name of their wine to "glera" would be commercial suicide. ("Glass of glera, Gladys?" "Um, no thanks ..."). They say that not only should they be allowed to keep selling wines labelled prosecco on the domestic market, but they should also be free to do so in international markets.

The Australian winemakers' argument – and it's a pretty solid one – is that when the grape variety came into this country, its name was prosecco. Just because the Italians have changed the name doesn't mean Australia has to. Supplied

Ross Brown, executive director of Brown Brothers, the largest producer of prosecco in the King Valley, says the explosion of interest in the sparkling wine style is helping to reinvent the district's fortunes, thanks to both the burgeoning tourism interest in the Prosecco Road regional branding campaign and the financial benefits flowing to local grape growers.

"There has been considerable grafting of unprofitable shiraz, cabernet and merlot vines to prosecco over the last four years to meet demand," he says. "And with prosecco grapes enjoying a market price at least double that of the red grapes being grafted over, there is good incentive there for growers."

The prosecco producers' message seems to be getting through. A promotional tasting for pollies in Canberra late last month was well attended and produced plenty of publicity. And the Victorian state government recently announced a $50,000 funding package to help the Wines of the King Valley association promote the region and its signature sparkling wine.

"The King Valley could actually own the image of prosecco in Australia if we work collectively," Brown says. "Of course, we have a common enemy – which is great for unity."

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Down the Prosecco Road

NV Brown Brothers Prosecco [King Valley]

From the largest producer of prosecco in the King Valley, this bright, fresh and crisp bubbly has a lovely frothy persistence, fine, delicate white grape flavour, and just a hint of fruit sweetness balanced by zesty acidity. A good aperitif style, drunk on its own. $19 brownbrothers.com.au

NV La Zona Prosecco [King Valley]

This prosecco is a little on the drier, more savoury side, with ample fizz and pleasing chewy green apple characters. It's the kind of style I reach for when making a spritz: three parts prosecco, two parts Aperol (or Campari), one part soda, citrus twist, over ice. $22 chrismont.com.au

2016 Dal Zotto Col Fondo Prosecco [King Valley]

A traditional style of prosecco, sold undisgorged, with the yeast lees intact, so it's a little cloudy. There's plenty of flavour and character here: bready, nutty aromas, bone-dry, a little rustic, but in a really good way. The 2017 vintage is due for release soon. $27 dalzotto.com.au