Bilimungwe

About 46km (as the eagle flies) southeast of Mfuwe, Bilimungwe stands about 100m from the Luangwa, slightly upstream of its confluence with the Kapamba River. Bilimungwe means 'Chameleon' in the local Kamanga tongue, hence the exquisitely carved chameleon in the central bar/dining area which has been originally and beautifully designed as a thatched roof suspended between the trunks and branches of some tall old trees (mostly Natal mahoganies, Trichilia emetica). Underneath is a platform of wooden decking with a bar one end and tables at the other. Overlooking a permanent waterhole, it's a fascinating design whose open sides are permeated by a cool breeze in the heat.

Accommodation is in very comfortable chalets, and the camp overlooks a vlei. Chalets have tall thatched roofs, and walls made of cane and reeds at the bottom, and mosquito gauze at the top. Each has two double beds, with separate mosquito nets, and an en-suite shower, a toilet and two wash basins, and tea- and coffee-making facilities. This is the height of luxury for a Luangwa bushcamp – hence they've called it a 'trails camp'! Activities concentrate on walking safaris, though night drives are always part of the programme.

Transfers here from Mfuwe take about 31/2 hours, and the drive down is mainly through miombo woodlands, across a series of the escarpment's foothills. It's quite different from much of the rest of the valley and, although the game on the way isn't dense, it does feel very remote and there is chance of spotting roan, sable and hartebeest which all frequent the area. A stay at Bilimungwe is often followed by a few nights at Chindeni Trails Camp.