Many of these models have what I call a "grossly overdesigned" door sense circuit.

First, locate the technical sheet (mini manual) inside your unit. It's usually hidden behind the controls, sometimes elsewhere, such as alongside the grille or other panels.

Now refer to the picture I've attached below.

If the primary interlock (door switch) is good, and its mount is okay and it is aligned properly, then I would suspect the 20A fuse, the 15A fuse, and the cavity T.O.D. (thermal overload device, aka thermal cutout, TCO, thermostat).

Accessing some components (especially the oven cavity thermostat) for testing and possible replacement may require you to remove the oven from the wall and take off the outer cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

At this point, I'm kinda lost. I rung out the wiring from the door switches, through the circuitry and back to the control panel. Everything ohm's out good and there is full continuity. I did find that the 15A fuse was blown so for troubleshooting purposes, I jumpered around it but still receive the DOOR message when attempting to start the m/w.

Is it possible that the control panel itself is bad and not interpreting the incoming signal from the circuit?

A couple of other things that might be noteworthy are that when I tested between the contacts for the magnetron fan, it showed as 'open' even though I had circuit continuity to and from the fan motor; could the fan motor have gone bad and tripped the 15A fuse?

Lastly, does the wiring schematic assume the door switches are in a closed, or open state? The door switches are wired in the following manner:

I would do no business with this guy, one year ago I sent him $40 & my microwave control board which he said would be fixed and sent back. I have not seen it yet. Apparently others have had this happen also.

Had this same "door" error that other Whirlpool owners seem to have. Had an appliance repair guy out today and he knew exactly what was causing it. It's a 20 amp fuse that's blown. He was able to access it, albeit, a narrow opening by pulling out the microwave as far as it could go (I have a Whirlpool/oven combo) and squeezing his hand into the space and pop a new fuse in. Took about 10 minutes.

We are having the same issue and were quoted the about $600 for parts and labor; labor is high because the whole unit needs to be removed so that the repair can take place. I found out that if you call Whirlpool and request to purchase the Repair+1 extended warranty you can save yourself some money. The cost of the warranty is $400; it covers everything and they will set up the appointment for your repair right away. The warranty is good for 1 year.

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