Silverstorm: If you really can't get a radio with proper brake mixing, here are some tips...Without being able to program the end-points for the front brake servo using a Y-cable, you might have to grind off one of the lobs of the brake cam so that it doesn't engage the brake at full throttle. You'll see what I mean when you have it assembled. Also, if you speed control has programmable brake setting, I would set it for 75% then dial back the end point of channel 2 from 100% down until you get the front brake engagement you need. I can almost guarantee that 100% EPA on brake side of the radio will be too much and burn ou your servo quickly.

One thing I have come across. Nobody said anything but maybe nobody noticed:

According the front brakes:

The Brake servo holder is bent, twisted, and doesnt align properly to the wheel/spokes.
At least the handful I have here all are.
You will need to warmup the plastic bit and bend it outwards that the Pad Screw domes have a distance of 9mm. See picture.

What if we dremelled off 0.5 to 1.0mm from the studs that hold the disc in position?
I can see now that even with only about 15 minutes of use, they have left their mark on the side of the servo.
Also, I measured the servo and it's JUST that tiny bit wider than 11 mm!
I guess I can carefully file the servo holder's flat surface, where the big side of the servo touches it, to bring it a bit higher (as it's showing in your pic, above), and not yet touch the pins.

See attached pic...

Images

If the servo is getting marks your holder is bent even worse. If you adjust to the 9mm by warming it will also take the Servo further away from the pins and stuff. DONT dremel those studs, your outer (servo) brakepad will not be happy with its new position, and it wont solve the servo problem...

So better solve the origin of the problem ;-)
Put it in a vice and heat it along the line with a heatgun. And bend it outwards (arrow). see picture. Its a bit of playing around but then it will work You might also have to twist it a bit so both domes are 9mm apart from the spokes.

Starting to dremel will open pandoras box:
what do you do in half a year in Lostallo and need to change a part?
and you have forgotten what you (exactly) did? 10 mins before a race....

If you bend the servo holder the pads AND the servo move further outwards.
If you only dremel the domes, you just bring the pads closer to the servo and in the drawing (above post #227) you see that they cant go any further than the inner side of the servo. Thats why you have to bend the whole thing.

Other explanation:
The servo is 11 mm wide the domes are 11mm high and if all is correct the pads are flush with the inner side of the servo. The whole thing is bent towards the spokes. Thats why the domes are only (in my case) 8.5mm top and 8.7mm bottom dome from the spokes. That means also the servo is approx. 0.4mm too close to the pins of the disc. Thats why you have those marks on the servo. The whole thing "moves" deforms under action and 0.5mm are easily needed for clearance. By design there should be approx 1mm distance.

Check the picture (below) you should easily be able to fit a 29mm (-0.1mm) between the Left fork and the Servo on its holder without the pads mounted. It should all be paralell and flush then your brake will work better too. Assure that your servo mounted on the holder is aligned like on this picture !

How do YOU measure your crashbars? Everybody does that in a different way.

I for example have a set of Crashbars in 5mm increments. 60,65,70,75,80,85 mm. They are marked in sets of two, alltogether in a little box. Sets of two? I always make them in pairs lay them together and cut together. This way they are symmetric left and right.
Below is the way I measure my crashbars (see pic.).
Some people measure incorrectly on the SB5 (it even happened to a former World Champion with this bike). You CANNOT measure the legth of the Crashbars from the SB5 Chassis!!! Why? The Left Chassis is 1.5mm further inward than the right Chassis plate (If you still remember building the SB5 there are a few bits different left and right ;-). Its not a lot I know, but thats one of the little details between a working and a perfect bike.

How do I find the perfect length?
Start with a length somewhere in the middle and then either use longer or shorter bars *LOL* according to track layout, grip, what tires I am using......
How do I find out how short they can be?
I always under all circumstances have to be able to stand up the bike without help, thats the bottom level....

Hey Gaz... I use the same Savox servo, you may also need to add shims or spacers to the steering arms, the servo axle is further to the rear of bike than what it was designed for... I think mine are 2mm...