Here's the Ford GT-40 MkIV that I'm building out. The car that was built to do just one thing in 1967; beat the Ferrari 330/P4. It lost big time at Daytona with a Ferrari sweep, but it came back and redeemed itself at the big race later that year. I'm building the Andretti car. I know how it started out..........and I know how it finished up. The choice is - which of the two to build...........?

Pre-race:

During the race:

Andretti walked away from the crash at Maison Blanche; lucky guy! He also took out a GT-40 MkII in the process.......

Audi1 wrote:Looks good! Have I seen that #33 silver car before.................?

Looking forward to your decision on the #111 car.

Allan

Why yes! But now it's V4.0 with new chassis, different weight placement, better fitting guide and a slightly different front track width and ride height all from lessons learned running 3 other 917s over the years. Also now has decal #33s on the side. If it's in the top 25 mission accomplished. #111 will be silver that's for sure.

Audi1 wrote:Here's the Ford GT-40 MkIV that I'm building out. The car that was built to do just one thing in 1967; beat the Ferrari 330/P4. It lost big time at Sebring with a P4 sweep, but it came back and redeemed itself at the big race later that year.

Oh, contrare.The Ford MkIV won Sebring with Andretti and McLaren. That car was produced by NSR.Ferrari did sweep the '67 Daytona.

This is a chassis I built using Lego technics. I parted out one of the Avant chassis I recently required and installed the Avant orange long can. CB rims, with Paul Gage tires, and some custom resin inserts I did.

Orange can is supposed to be 22 K @ 12 volts, but I haven't checked it yet. I will get out my scope sometime this week and check these orange cans out. Lots of torque, but on my home track , my twin can chassis will post better lap times then this chassis can produce

I am guessing though on the bigger layouts that RPM and torque will make a significant difference. At least I am hoping.

Did up the old Strombecker early GT 40 Prototpe in BARC livery. I also cut out and added in headlights, as well as some more detail on the rear.

I am laying up a Twin can chassis for the Porsche RS61, details on that will follow. The 917 with the Avant chassis is going to stay in the barn for this one.

Allan, So glad you are deciding on racing an early Porsche 907, love it! Yes, go with this livery.

I also have the SRC Porsche 908 LH, and was really thinking of entering this but, thought my Fly short tail 908/3 needed to battle with the NSR 917s and GT40s! Also, my SRC 908 LH is such a nice scale model, forget about racing it... shelf queen.

Porsche 908/3 rim insertsAnyone have these and or spare set of old Fly Porsche 917, 908, 907 front, rear rims?

Cheers, Thompson

Nice list of parts!

You might want to go with a Slot.It 12 tooth pinion; the 21.5K rpm motor will handle that; lots more torque than the standard 18K rpm Mabuchi black stripe motor that came with the car. And, it wouldn't hurt you, IMO, to also drop a couple of teeth from the spur; Slot.It 19mm spurs go down to 34 tooth, which would put your overall gearing ratio of around 2.8, which I think would be beneficial vs. what comes with the starter kit.

If you really want to push the envelope, then can go with an NSR 7.5mm pinion; 12 or 13 teeth - your choice (more top end with 13, more braking with 12), and use the Slot.It 18mm spurs, where you have a much wider choice of teeth. With a 32 or a 31 tooth 18mm spur/13 tooth 7.5mm pinion, you'll be down to a gearing ratio of around 2.4, which is fine for this motor (or for the SCC Piranha motor, of similar rpm rating, but a smoother power band and less peakiness = easier to drive IMO).

If you're using Slot.It rims in the rear, then you might as well use them in the front, too; I would recommend aluminum fronts with the short hubs. If you do, then CG Slotcars makes the 908/3 inserts in 3DP that fit those wheels (15mm) and that look very good.

Braid, for a long series like this one, I'd use SlotCarCorner competition braid - it lasts very well and is highly conductive; Slot.It competition braid can "rag" over a long series.

Gluing the pod to the chassis is probably a good idea; giving you more of a rigid platform to build from and also making it easier to get reproducible body float.

Tires, I would probably go with urethanse, since they're easier to true. If you do, and if you choose to use Paul Gage urethanes, then you will find a wheel/tire matcher in the SlotCarCorner website under Paul Gage tires. Paul shows matches for most wheels, including the stock Fly Classic fronts and rears. The PGT compound is probably your best bet for proxy racing in his line of urethane tires. Other good urethanes include, Super Tires Yellow Dogs, Luf's, D'Art Hobbies, Shotgundave, and others. Most of them will carry Fly Classic front and rear tires.

Just some ideas to consider; others will probably share their recommendations with you, too.