Panzano has sat under the Hotel Monaco in Denver for 18 years, and in that time the restaurant has only had four executive chefs.

The latest, chef Patrick Kelly, came on board this fall. He’s worked two stints in Michelin-starred kitchens and was most recently worked around the Bay Area as the chef de cuisine at Michelin one-starred and San Francisco Chronicle four-starred La Folie, then executive chef at San Francisco Chronicle three-starred Angèle, executive chef of culinary operations for the Au Bon Repas group and finally as the opening executive chef at Lure + Till in the Epiphany Hotel for Commune Hotels and Resorts.

Kelly introduced a new menu when he came on board at Panzano — one focused, he says, on clean plates and warm flavors. It’s a savory menu, meant to pair best with wine, and I tasted the entire thing.

Sformato

Parmigiano reggiabi custard, black olive and spiced pumpkin purée.

Sformato at Panzano, 909 17th St. (Ashley Dean/Denverite)

This looks like an appetizer you can finish on your own, but unless you’re got an iron stomach, consider sharing it instead. It’s incredibly rich. The diced up olive adds a necessary bite to a very creamy, warm fall dish.

Author: Ashley Dean

Ashley Dean covers dining and nightlife, and other odds and ends. She previously covered music and did some copy editing for the Denver Post, the Colorado Daily and the Daily Camera. She's from New York, likes her bourbon straight and has strong opinions about Kanye West. She can be reached at adean@denverite.com, 303-502-2804 or @AshleyDean. View all posts by Ashley Dean