Description

Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.

Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Lynn Hill, John Sherman, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.

Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.

The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.

There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.

Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked":

Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1985. Photo: Dave Langhoff.

Andy Hanson on Lost Face Overhangs:

Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.

Bouldering

Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.

Organization

There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.

The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.

Location/Directions

Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.

Guidebooks

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Accomodations

There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.

Soul satori is located in the Thin Man Corridor, on the right arete as one is looking towards the lake. Although it may be over looked due to its easy grade, this climb may be the most aesthetic in the park when climbed at sunset. this is a must do for any climber, good exposure, beautiful view, and extremely fun climbing! Simply climb up the slabby arete, using good crimps on both sides, aiming for a nice ledge for the top out. A definate DL classic! ...[more]Browse More Classics in WI

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. It can also be found at amazon.com. Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.

There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).

There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.

Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area.....

Does anyone know about the history of route-naming at Devil's Lake? I heard a rumor about conflict over route names between groups of male and female climbers in the 1950s and wanted to confirm the story and get more info.

Hi all, I'll be visiting "in-laws' in july, flying with a 2 year old and all that goes with that scene. Can I take just shoes and get on some boulders at Devils lake? How about a suggestion of "minimal' gear that can keep me moving up on some moderates on my vacation. Thanks.

I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me.

This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.

(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!)

LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away.

I am a new climber and would like to know who to get started with and where. I would not like to test gravity affect on the body without some training. Does anyone know off climbing clubs, guides, teachers that would be willing to help.

"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"

I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.

There are still leads to be done at DL but I think "Ground Up" ascents of the 5.12's and up are the next level (Some have been done obviously). The placement of gear and tricky sequences would make these totally ground-breaking (pun not intended). Ground up ascents of the totally un-led projects would be A. the most dangerous thing I could think of and B. Mind blowing. Someone get Macleod on the phone!

I am also psyched to see these things going down! Friction season is just a few months away. Start making your list and checking it twice to see if the rock will be naughty or nice.

A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :( Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff?

Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity." That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind.

Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....

The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk.

I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it?

John: Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake. He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are. So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this.

We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise.

Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West.

I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before.

This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall". Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger.

We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there.

I lost my wedding ring somewhere between the CCC lot and Brinton's Butress on 10/10. It's a beat up gold band. I looked for it for 3 hours this morning to no avail. In the event that anyone finds it please! contact me. As you can imagine I'm in hot water.

A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields....

If you can do all of the following routes (Just on TR) you can then claim Alex A is your bitch. Start your engines!

Lead them and I will be your bitch, sponge-bath included ;)

"Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"

What Nick is eluding too, these are the 16 routes that have I have not climbed of the 1600 routes, my to do list, not going to Happen, I think I'm safe from bitch duty, for awhile, a few of the routes have only 1 ascent, plus need to come to Colorado, to Collect, good luck on doing them all, you need it,

Partner Search - I may be passing through Devil's Lake on my way west from Michigan around May 5th - 8th. Is this a place that is easy to just meet up and join up when solo? Would love to hook up with some locals (I'll lead up to 5.8/9, TR up to 5.10/11) - let me know best way to reach out or contact once I am closer to knowing when I'll be there. Thanks.

Another epic journey took me by those bluffs we all see from 113 near Merry Mac's (choss), around the south side of the bluff (choked by thorn bushes), past the end of Halweg Rd (hidden talus field with no big enough boulders), past Burma Rd and through the gorge there, then north through the woods (nuthin'), back to Ski Hi Rd, and straight through the woods to the Fire Road Boulder (some un-done or forgotten lines), up the east bluff (boulders straight back from Chicago about 100 yards), down the Ice Age Trail, though the woods across the sandstone areas (nothing up top, some stuff around New Standstone), and back to the Jeep at the trail head. This means I'm 99% sure there is no climbable rock not posted currently on MP.

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)

Found a pair of shoes at the lake this weekend... Send an email to gmurg@yahoo.com to claim. Not worried about the area so much but please tell me the maker and the shoes name. Color would be nice too, area would help, just sayin, I dont want to give a greedy person some nice shoes!

Possible to climb a select amount of things that time of year. Depends on how much snow we get. So far things are still very climbable. Let me know if you want to give it a go, I'm always up for climbing. Might want to think ice climbing if you have the gear. If you have some stiff boots I could borrow you the rest.

Bouldering guide, good question. Pondering a route guide myself it was suggested by publishers that I add in bouldering, which I think is what any new guide should contain to have mass appeal. However, routes are going up pretty fast and I think it be wise to wait for that to slow down. However again, the market for any new guide at the lake isn't quite big enough to justify the time effort and $ of making one (based on my current research). However again and again, DL is such a complicated area making the guide in the first place would be seriously involved. In sum, I'm not sure if a guide will ever be written for reasons stated above plus the fact that MP has become such a complete resource. Internet killed the book star?!?!?

Damn it Baum, you're inspiring me. Maybe we could get some sort of group project going where any interested could contribute to the proj ala Google Docs. We choose a format, get in the info in the blanks and I will do a final edit. Give profits is the Access Fund or something. Wheels are turning!

Well I for one would love to see a well done guide for the area. Especially one with a good history section. The older I get, the more I wish I had time to collect all the old stories I heard at the crags and campfires in my formative years in Wisconsin. Before the fuckness. Hell, I've already forgotton most them, and Groth's are some of the best I have ever heard. Anyway, kudos for even thinking about taking on such a challenge, but it seems like you guys have quite a pool of talent to pull from. I'm sure it would be a labor of love, but that's one the best kinds. Would be psyched to help in anyway.

Eoro46, there isn't really a guide for bouldering, the best guidebook for Devil's Lake is Swartling's Guide to Devil's Lake. It is in its third printing now, I personally like the second edition better if you can find it.

Eric Z. did a bouldering guide to Devil's Lake that is alright, there is a link to some copiedish topos on the Devil's Lake bouldering page. There is no guidebook for the rest of Wisconsin, unless you count the Falcon guide Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin, but that book is pretty brief for my tastes.

I've never heard of a GDSP guidebook, been there a couple times and haven't really felt a need for anything more than the topos in the areas uploaded by Chris treggE. It would be nice to have one, but I haven't heard of one.

Westby and Central Sandstone are pretty good areas to just play around and find stuff. I've never run into a party there, I would be amazed if there was a guidebook. Print out mountain project and go apeshit. Hillbilly Hollow also has some interesting stuff to boulder, but its not on here. Hit me up for more beta on that area.

hey im from utah and am currently living in iowa and was wondering what the ideal climbing season for the lake is? it looks like its the nearest area that has a lot of good climbing ranging from difficulty and types. can anyone give me some insight and be interested in showing me around if i can make it up there?

Ahhh.... start of the winter hibernation mode for DL climbers.... speaking in terms of MountainProject activities specifically.... as the temps outside drop the amount of interaction slows to a sticky molasses crawl....

If any Devil's Lake climbers found the helmet in this photo at the base of Stool Pigeon gimme a shout. It's greasy, nasty, and old (like me) and I assume nobody but me would want to use it... If you demand a bounty let me know.

Also, there are 2 nuts on that wall free for the taking. One on Stool Pigeon and one on Chicago. 'Twas late in the day, we were lazy, blah blah blah. Maybe they are already gone. Red and purple if I remember right.

BEWARE OF BAT! I was climbing in the Old Sandstone Area this past Wed on Team Arturo/Alligator Wall. On the far left end of the overhang about 2/3 of the way up is an awesome undercling that calls out to you. I happily jammed my fingers up in there as far as they would go and was promptly bit on my middle finger. After yanking out my hand in a hurry, I peeked up in there and saw the face and heard the chatter of a very irritated bat. Rather than stopping to discuss his medical condition with him,I apologized profusely and continued on my way floundering to the top without knowing whether he (or she...didn't check sex)was rabid. Upon returning home I jumped on the CDC site and learned that the chances of me contracting rabies from this guy were less than 6% but if I did, I could plan on dying a horrible death in the near future. I am now beginning a series of shots which aren't particularly bad in comparison to the possible alternative, but I am told, will cost several thousand dollars. My Advice: Save yourself a few bucks while improving your climbing ability, by doing Alligator Wall without the obvious undercling. Happy Climbing!...By the way Old Sandstone Area is really cool...a welcome relief from the slippery quartzite on a hot day!

Hello gonna be climbing the lake on the 14th of june through the 23rd or something like that, anyone is welcome to join me i've got gear, we can trade on some ropes, heres my number (920)250-1621... Also i was wondering on some common sling lengths used for anchors, i here 2-10footers and 1-20footer works pretty good, just looking for some advice on that, thanks, peace...