Ah, France. As was reported in the international press, France’s incoming president, François Hollande, is trimming back some of the bling-bling excesses of his model-marrying, Patek Philippe–wearing predecessor. Aside from brutal austerity measures like junior ministers being deprived of their bodyguards (imagine how terrifying this must make the day-to-day existence of the French Food Processing Industry junior minister, for instance), Hollande has apparently replaced Champagne with Muscadet at most official events.

Sacre bleu! Madness! But actually I kind of like the idea, because I love Muscadet. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape on the far western edge of the Loire Valley, it’s one of the great bargains in white wine, as far as I’m concerned. Crisp and minerally, tangy and herbal, it’s often said to be the ultimate oyster wine, but it’s equally good with pretty much any other kind of seafood, too. The best producers typically age the wine on its lees (the spent yeasts from fermentation) for several months, which adds texture and complexity. Here are five worth looking for.