Just Back From…Oaxaca, Mexico

Barneys New York Editorial Director Anna Deutsch recalls the color and joy of a recent trip to Oaxaca.

By
Anna Deutsch

May 22, 2019

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Anna Deutsch, Barneys New York's Editorial Director, is a veteran traveler and explorer. She's lived in Australia, now calls New York home, and spends as much time as she can on the road, jet-setting, and globetrotting. One of her most memorable trips? Oaxaca. Here, she fills BAZAAR.com in on how she spent just over as week in Mexico, and where you should eat, sleep, shop, and visit in one of Mexico's hidden gems. Spoiler alert: You are going to want to book a trip ASAP.

Flight Plan: My boyfriend and I flew into Oaxaca City from New York City via a quick layover in Mexico City. An alternative itinerary for this trip would be to spend time in Mexico City before or after Oaxaca. In our case, we wanted to get in some R&R, so we decided to split our time between urban cities, cultural exploration, and beachside relaxation. From Oaxaca City, we took a 7-hour van over a mountain range to Mazunte, one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos—a select group of “magic villages” known for a combination of rich history and natural beauty.

Pro tip: Skip the nauseating van ride (or be sure to take Dramamine), and opt for an internal hopper flight instead—we wished we had.

Trip Duration: 8 days: 4 nights in Oaxaca City and 4 night in a coastal town called Mazunte.

First Impressions: Color, color, color! Oaxaca City is a feast for the senses, especially the eyes. Mint green, cranberry red, royal blue—each building is painted a different color or an eye-catching combination. Bougainvillea vines and jacaranda petals spill onto every street. There’s joy in the air, and you sense it right away. After popping into one of the many mezcaleria’s for a tasting, we spent our first afternoon in town drinking cans of Tecate and wandering the streets. We immediately stumbled upon a parade, the first of many we’d experience there. Even at 10 p.m. the city felt alive with children laughing, teenagers flirting, and elderly couples sharing crepes on benches.

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Greg Ervanian

What I packed: The sun is crazy strong down there, so I was very happy to have my Lola Hats sun hat with me. During the days, I wore a lot of breezy white dresses and my favorite Rouje blouse to stay cool, and at night I kept things light in my Nili Lotan slip dress.

With so much color and character, Oaxaca is truly one of the most photogenic places I’ve ever visited. I brought my Olympus MJU ii everywhere with plenty of Kodak Portra 400 film on-hand.

Where We Stayed: We stayed at a charming, 8-room bed and breakfast called La Betulia, and I can’t recommend it highly enough. We arrived mid-afternoon to discover a colorful, sun dappled courtyard filled with happy succulents. It was such a peaceful oasis, it was hard to believe we were just a 5-minute walk to the center of town. They treat guests like family, leaving homemade mole (and its recipe!) in the room along with thoughtful local recommendations. Beyond that, they were on hand to help curate and plan exactly what we wanted from our stay. Each day began on the quiet patio enjoying a made-to-order breakfast cooked in front of us using seasonal ingredients.

Best Daytime Activity: The Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca occupies more than two acres of land on a former monastic grounds in the center of town and is a must for anyone into succulents—but more than that, it’s a fascinating exploration of the region’s rich agricultural and botanical history.

Best Meal: Casa Oaxaca was a truly unforgettable experience, and not just because there was an explosion of fireworks the moment we took our seats on the stunning rooftop terrace in the shadows of the town’s main church, Santo Domingo. The food is a perfectly executed modern take on the rich history of Oaxacan cuisine.

Day Trips: From mezcal distilleries to enormous markets, there are tons of fascinating villages and attractions just outside Oaxaca. Our favorite day trip was combining the otherworldly hot springs of Hierve al Agua and Teotitlan, a dusty weaving village known for its natural dyes.

Down The Coast: Mazunte is a surf town nestled along an amazing coastline of little beach communities. We stayed at Casa Pan de Miel, a truly sensational cliffside property complete with an infinity pool and friendly pet cats and dogs.

Best Beach: We spent our days on the down at San Agustinillo, a tiny fishing town with a beautiful stretch of beach and no shortage of spots to enjoy fish tacos and margaritas with our feet still in the sand.

Pro tip: Bring some beers and a snack and hike to catch the sunset at Punta Cometa, the southernmost point in the state of Oaxaca.

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Most Inspiring Aspect: Oaxaca is a truly vibrant place that has a rich, proud heritage and warm locals who are eager to share a piece of it. Embrace the warmth of the culture, the locals, and the easygoing vibes while you're in town.

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