Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

At the far west end of the Waterfront, just past the chockstone are 3 bolted lines, this is the west-most. The 1st bolt, on waterstreaked rock, leads up and right to a footledge. Then climb the dihedral/groove system, to the headwall. Climb this and finish on easy chicken-heads. Thin pro from the bolt to the chickenheads. Not the best of lines, but it definitely had some interesting moves down low and gaining the headwall.

Protection

1 bolt on the route, and a small selection of small gear for the crack, with a 1" cam for the top,a nd some extra slings to loop chickenheads.