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Ok, sometime when I get my orders all caught up, I've been thinking of giving my Mystery helmet kit a thorough overhaul, and I want to know what you guys think I should address.

Here's what I've got so far-

Cheek corners- Not sure when these got rounded off between the PP2 helmet and the lava helmet, but all the real helmet pics I'm seeing have the squared off cheeks so I want to fix that...

The raised "stripes" behind the ears- These were really rough on the original so I rebuilt the ends of them for the MH, but got them too angled. They need to be more squared off.

Dent- All I'm going to do here is clean out the layers and layers of primer that have built up with every new mold. There's so much in there, I've noticed the lines inside are getting a little soft.

Borden Connector- I scratch built a new 3 hole one when I cleaned up the lava helmet, but now that I've got the ref disk, I noticed it's the two hole version on the ESB helmet. If it's the 3 hole version on the PP2, I'll leave the connector off the main pattern and include both types as seperate pieces.

I know it was mentioned in another thread, but what about a two piece slimmer earcap where the triangular piece at the bottom tucks under the base?

And what about molding an MQ-1 into the keyslot area?

Oooo! Now there's an idea! Was it positioned the same way in all versions of the helmet? I noticed on the ROTJ helmet that there's a couple little deelybobs sticking out of the bottom two keyslots, that aren't the ESB version. Seperate part options maybe?

Borden Connector- I scratch built a new 3 hole one when I cleaned up the lava helmet, but now that I've got the ref disk, I noticed it's the two hole version on the ESB helmet. If it's the 3 hole version on the PP2, I'll leave the connector off the main pattern and include both types as seperate pieces

Maybe I'm missing something, but I've never seen anything to indicate a 2 hole Borden connector on the ESB helmet:

Just out of curiosity, what would keep them from installing a vent/mesh if the MQ-1 was molded in? They would still have to cut out the keyslots either way.

With a separate piece, it becomes the wearer's option as to which version. If the piece is molded it, one would have to cut it out, possible destroying the board (depending on how it was molded), in order to install the screen.

With a separate piece, it becomes the wearer's option as to which version. If the piece is molded it, one would have to cut it out, possible destroying the board (depending on how it was molded), in order to install the screen.

But even if it is molded in, the wearer still has the option to cut out the keyslots to install a screen. Since they would be opting for the screen instead of the MQ-1, saving the board wouldn't really be an issue. The molded in board saves the customers wanting to make Boba helmets a step in the prepping process and doesn't add anymore work to those wanting to install a screen or vent.

I like! I like!
I'd love to see the squared off cheeks and "corrected" angle on the rear vanes. But no molded in circuit board.
As for the ears. . . would there be a way to re-do the upper ear cap to make a slightly different set up? In other words, a flat "base" molded into the helmet, then a 2-piece cap.
I would agree with the others above who said make the mods to a casting, rather than your original.

Sounds interesting. Will these changes/additions affect the price of the helmet?

Hehe, definately... But; it'll be the best kit on the market when I'm done! 8)

I've found a new resin to cast them in too, but it's too expensive to use at the current price. It's amazingly strong stuff though- We cast a helmet with it last week, and the first thing I did was drop it on the concrete floor from above my head. It BOUNCED like 3-4' high and was fine except for a scuff. It was so much fun we ended up doing it a couple dozen more times until it finally cracked in the area of the visor that gets cut out.

The downside is the stuff is expensive as hell- 145.00 per gallon, over 600.00 for a 5 gal kit.

Also, I think I'm going to run the next molds out of GI-1100 silicone that's stretchier than what I've been using- that should enable me to eliminate the split in the back of the mold for a truly seamless casting.