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cab...I did the same install on the sub and found that the wall is very thin. The screws rattle loose and I get a lot of rattle from the sub and areas around it. Did you have the same experience.
Also, on the location of the second amp. That also looks like a thin wall on the 06 LSV. I am scared to screw into it, but it doesn't look like you had a problem. What's the secret?

I was told and read here that it is cosmetic only. I'm going to have mine cut out and put a 12 at my feet. I would prefer a 10 but I have 3 12's I got in trade for my old boat and need to use at least 1.

I got to hear the system and the bass does not sound boomy, its pretty punchy could be the JL amp being bridged. I do need to dial the gain a bit because it is somewhat overpowering. The rest of the system sounds great as well.

Sorry for the late post. I was off the board for a long time, have been trying to make up for it the last few weeks

Good to hear your system sounds good. Funny, I just scored a great deal on a JL M6600 new on EBay so we have very similar systems. I am running six Polk db651's in the cabin and 4 on the tower in aerial cans plus a 10" Polk/MOMO sub in the footbox. Only difference is that I have a separate amp running the sub. I plan to use the M6600 to power all 10 full range speakers. Will wire the 4 tower speakers parallel to channels 1&2, the 4 cabin speakers parallel to 3&4, and the 2 bow speakers to 5&6. My HU is an upgraded Kenwood with three sets of preouts and 4V input voltage so I've got plenty of signal strength and preouts and won't need an EQ. I am also going to try and get by with one battery for now - we'll see how that works out.

Can't wait to get it all hooked up. I still plan to seal that footbox - not sure how your sub sounds tight and mine boomy. I might try to run the sub off the M6600 to see if it's my sub amp, which is a cheap Boss but it's rated at 200W x2 rms @ 4ohms and I am running it bridged so it should have plenty of juice (says 1200W x1 bridged at 4 ohms but that's probably peak not rms). It does push the sub effortlessly so I don't think that's it.

One thing to remember is that even a non freeair sub in a freeair situation can sound decent if you adjust the amp correctly for conditions. Adjusting the amp/subs frequency limits is imperative to achieve this with the HU flat is a priority, then you can adjust the HU sub controls for optimum sound. Adding deadening material like Dynamat to the internal surfaces can help as well.

One thing to remember is that even a non freeair sub in a freeair situation can sound decent if you adjust the amp correctly for conditions. Adjusting the amp/subs frequency limits is imperative to achieve this with the HU flat is a priority, then you can adjust the HU sub controls for optimum sound. Adding deadening material like Dynamat to the internal surfaces can help as well.

razz,

It's been a year since I installed the sub but I did make sure that it's only receiving low frequencies and the frequency cut off that I used was consistent with the sub and lines up with where I have the high pass filter set for the full range speakers. The gain adjustment on the sub amp is good as well.

My HU EQ is flat and I do use the subwoofer volume control to adjust the sub volume for the music playing at the time. I will try the dynamat. What else is there?

cab...I did the same install on the sub and found that the wall is very thin. The screws rattle loose and I get a lot of rattle from the sub and areas around it. Did you have the same experience.
Also, on the location of the second amp. That also looks like a thin wall on the 06 LSV. I am scared to screw into it, but it doesn't look like you had a problem. What's the secret?

I don't have that problem. The screws are tight, no rattles.

If you are talking about the walkway wall on the passenger side, that is pretty thick. I removed the spotter seat backrest at the hinges then used a long C- clamp to measure the thickness. I don't remember now exactly what it was but I want to say it was at least an inch thick.