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Gold standard camming device.

There are many reasons why most climbers rely on Black Diamond's Camalot C4 to save them when they fall. Just look around world-class climbing destinations like Yosemite and Indian Creek, and you're bound to see trad racks filled with Camalots. That's because this best-selling and most-trusted camming device boasts the original double axle design for an unparalleled performance. Double axles provide a larger placement range to give you more opportunities to place each cam in cracks ranging from offwidths to tight fingers. The double axle design also allows you to place the cam passively like a stopper. The Camalot also features a continuous cable stem for strength, an ergonomic thumb loop for easy handling, Black Diamond's patented sling for long-lasting durability, and a trigger with stops for easy cleaning.

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Good quality

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Black diamond c4's make up a majority of my trad rack along with DMM Dragon 2's and black diamond x4's. Cams will last a long time with proper treatment and are very light as well as easy to place. Highly recommend these cams.

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Particularly perfect in the desert.

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Compared to competition, BD's C4 cams seem to be the most resilient for desert climbs. Sand simply doesn't wear out the trigger and axles as fast as other camming devices. I usually have to lube others before I touch the C4. There are certainly more attributes that make the C4 the "gold standard," but this particular attribute seems to be understated.

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Widely Used with Good Reason

Black Diamond's C4s are undoubtedly the most used cam on the market and for good reason. These serve as the perfect staple to build a rack around and make it super easy to add pieces as your gear closet grows. Of course, the color coordination is essential and easy to get used to but, above all else, they are trustworthy pieces that allow for increased confidence when climbing. They make a piece for almost any crack, and there is no need to fear their durability or longevity . Compared to other cams I tend to even like the "feel" of these triggers more, but it all comes down to safety and confidence and at the end of the day BD C4s inspire!

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#4

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Just added a #4 to my rack before a trip to the City and was very thankful to have it. Not much else to say that hasn't been said already, these are very well built devices and feel more secure than some of the competitors.

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The best cam around

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

It's not breaking news that the Black Diamond C4 is the best and most widely used cam on the market. It holds true to its reputation for good reason, it's bomber! I tend to find myself grabbing different cams when the cracks thin down, but if the route takes a .4 or larger, I'm plugging in a C4. These cams are really easy to identify too, especially when paired with BD 'biners, because of their colored lobes and slings and they stay where you need them to when placed properly. Even rapid placements tend to be secure and easy to clean. All in all, I would suggest these cams to anyone putting together a rack. After all, there is almost nothing in this world I'd rather be doing than placing a #2 camalot.. and then again, and again.

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Great Cams!

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are wonderful as everyone knows. I pair them the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam as the Metolius and BD cams are slightly different in their sizes. So if you have a # 1 and # 2 in Black diamond and pair them with a Metolius cam you can have something in between a #1 and #2.

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Sets Par

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The cams by BD are next game. They put so much thought into the components and the weight. Working with cam's from Metolius or other competitors, you just dont feel the polished thought that BD has invested into their products. Truly the flagship rock climbing device BD makes is their cams.

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Gold Standard

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

As Joel mentioned in his previous review, these cams are indeed the gold standard by which all other SLCD's (spring loaded camming devices) are judged by. If you are looking for something with a flexible stem for horizontal placements try the BD X4 or Totem Basic cam...everything else, C4 or bust.

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Phenomenal Cam!

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

If you have talked to any trad climber about what cams they buy or have used almost all of them will tell you BD C4. That tells you something right there. If you look at most guide books of what cams to bring on certain climbs they will usually refer to a certain color in the BD cams. I have used these cams in a number of different trad climbs from Little cotton wood canyon, and Indian Creek in Utah to even Enchanted Rock in Texas. These are for sure the Industry standard in Cams. Placements are very easy, Extremely lite and have a wider range of motion as well. All around the best cam on the market

Answer sejaekim's Question

Our current inventory is made in China, where they have been made for the last few years. BD is currently moving production from overseas to Salt Lake City, UT but they will not be available right away.

Answer Nikita Cardenas's Question

It looks like we've ordered some more of all the sizes, but they won't be arriving for a little while longer. Check back again at the end of January or beginning of February to see if we have them on the site!

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I was looking to get doubles for medium...

I was looking to get doubles for medium size cams. Right now I have the C4 in #0.5 through #3. Should I just buy another set of C4s or should I double with Helium Friends? If I were to buy Heliums, I was thinking I would get sizes #1.5 through #3 as "in-between" sizes of the C4s. Thanks!

Answer Meng's Question

Depending on where you are climbing and your familiarity with different brands of cams (or your willingness to learn the different sizes), either the Black Diamond C4s or Wild Country Heliums will get the job done. Both are great camming devices that offer smooth trigger action, user friendly color-coded anodization, and anatomical thumb loop on a single stem design. The main difference between the two is the axle design, the Black Diamond C4 is a double axle which creates a wider expansion range (less cams, more range) compared to the Wild Country Helium which is a single axle design, resulting in a smaller expansion range. The Heliums may help to bridge a gap between sizes in the BD C4s, but lack the same wide expansion range that makes the C4 cams so popular.

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If I can only buy ONE Camalot to start out...

If I can only buy ONE Camalot to start out with (since I'm just beginning my rack), which size gets used most often and would do me the most good until I can afford others? I'm a beginning climber . Thanks!

Answer Lawrence D.'s Question

Thats a pretty impossible question to answer. Really depends on where you're climbing and the size of the cracks you're climbing. Personally, I'd go with a #1 or #2...seem to always find a spot for both of those regardless of where I'm climbing.

Answer Mark D.'s Question

You can totally clip into the thumb loop. Metal on metal is fine as long as a rope is in the system. The nylon sling does little to absorb shock, because it's so short, so it pretty much makes no difference. That said, unless you're aid climbing, clipping to the loop will make your cam walk without fail.

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The wire loop can be used as a clip in point while aid climbing to gain an extra few inches, which was not an option with the previous style camalot. That said, it should not be used as a clip in point while free climbing. The BD camalots now have a special, wider nylon sling that utilizes a frost-knot like double up across the wire loop to better distribute the load onto the wire loop. See the article titled "QC Lab - Re-slinging camalots and C3's" on the Black Diamond website for a very scientific breakdown of how this works in real world climbing scenarios.

Answer Mike Gorecki's Question

Mike, If your starting your own gear rack, and you have friends with plenty of gear to share, a single set of these is nice (0.5-3). It tells your friends you want to help, without making a bold statement. Eventually though, you will find yourself doubling up on all these main cam sizes, then the micro cams, then the monster cams. Cams are the meat and potatoes of any gear rack, and they hardly ever go to waste on most climbs. As with all tech gear, be sure you understand their proper use and placement. Climb safe.

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Thanks You for reply! Thats right, Im collecting my first rack, but i wanted to double some sizes 2- 3 sizes on the start since I have got money right now and in my country cams are VERY expensive so I wanted take this opportunity to buy them cheapper. Maybe green and purple You think? Or it doesn't really matter which ones I'll double right now.

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Bottom line Mike, every climb is different, and some will require more of the smaller cams while others need larger ones. As a climber and someone who has many climbing friends, we all own and use the 0.5-3 sizes pretty regularly, with the occasional micro-cam or larger cam thrown into the mix. It doesnt really matter what sizes you double up on, because sooner or later, each size will find its use. If you have the time, check out what your climbing friends have more of, or see what is recommended for the climbs/crags in your area. You can also check out the Omega Pacific Link Cam, which has the size range of three cams (NEATO!) Otherwise, mix and match and just have fun with awesome gear.

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James has great advice, and I'd second everything he said, except for the part about the Link Cams. I would steer you away from OP Link cams (as a beginner), because they are much more difficult to evaluate than C4's, plus they're heavy and expensive to boot.

Here's a straight answer: If i wasn't trying to supplement a friend's rack, and had to choose three C4's to own in addition to this set, I would get either (.4, .75, 1) or (.4, 1, 2), assuming you also end up buying some Wallnuts

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Actually, if I were you, I would buy a set of stoppers, and once you've climbed with them for a few months and are really confident with them, buy the #1 and #2 cams. And for your first week or two climbing with the stoppers, climb on top-rope and place them as you normally would, or you'll be trading for the first time and see all of your nuts falling out of your placements and freak out. At least that's what I am doing. Good luck!

These are an excellent set of starter nuts, so here's the link for them: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection/stopper-set-no-4-13

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i'm in the process of building my trad...

i'm in the process of building my trad rack and am about to order a set of BD camalots (#0.5-3). after that my young rack will consist of the cam set, a set of BD nuts, set of BD hexes, and an additional #1 and 2x #2 camalots. my question is, if i were to buy one additional cam to supplement my set, which size should i get? i was thinking either #0.3 or #5, but am not sure which will really be more useful. if it helps, a majority of my climbing is done on sandstone in the Red River Gorge, KY.

Answer Brandon Macy's Question

Get the #.3. The largest i have is a #4 and have only used it 1 or 2 times. The #.3 will be more useful (where you are). I would also add you may be better off getting some smaller 3 cam units like C3s...maybe a #1 and #2. Plus the large hexes can be placed sideways and make pretty good #3-#4 camalot sizes. Good luck.

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The #5 looks neat but who really wants to climb a nasty offwidth, which is the only place you could use it. Plus the thing weighs like a 100 lbs. Buy either the .3, a .75, #1 or #2. Think fingers and fists. Those are the sizes you will be using most at this point in the game. good luck.

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Can anyone compare Camalots to wild country...

Can anyone compare Camalots to wild country technical friends? I have a way to get the wild country cams at almost 30% off, where as I'll have to pay full price for camalots, and I'm trying to decide if its worth the extra cost to base a rack on camalots rather than friends.

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I've used both, but prefer Wild Country Friends as they are lighter (a standard rack of 8 cams weighs 4 ounces lighter with Friends) and have always felt smoother than Camalots. Range differences are minor, Camalots are a few mm wider most sizes. Regarding the strength comment - Friends and Camalots are rated the same, although in smaller sizes, Friends are actually rated higher. I've had Friends on my rack for 25+ years and they simply work.

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Trango makes good stuff - I have and use a set of the Flexcams. In all honest-to-goodness, even though your range for the Max Cam is a little bit better than the C4, with the C4s, you don't have one of the axles floating. This becomes really important if your cam walks back into a flaring-back crack - it still can act as passive protection. Maybe get your C4s for your workhorse cams, then keep a couple Max Cams as panic pieces or for blind placements where having a big range to get a piece in as quickly as possible is more important than anything else.

Here's all the numbers for both of them: http://www.bdel.com/gear/detail/camalots_detail.php#compare http://www.trango.com/pdfs/CamSpecs.pdf