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You probably sucked some fine weeds, algae,something small into your intake so there was no water to cool the motor. Also, you need to check with the manufacturer because when you flip some brands they always need to be righted either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how the tubing is run cause it can fill your motor with water.

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You may have a failing power supply (PSU), a loose connection internally, or perhaps a part that is overheating.

The first and last here are your most likely culprits. Power supplies produce less power as their lifespan increases. Eventually it will reach a point where that output is no longer sufficient to maintain power to the computer. Testing this is a relatively basic task, and the equipment needed is relatively inexpensive. If you are comfortable with opening up your PC's chassis to test the PSU feel free to do so. If you are not disagreeable then a repair shop will have a steeper price tag attached to it, but they can do it relatively quickly.

It's effectiveness may be hard to believe due to its price, but it will work for your needs. More pricey models will have ports for testing connections beyond the motherboard connection (the only one you should need at this time).

The next issue I referenced is a loose connection. The reason I say this is the most unlikely scenario is that most parts and connections have some form of interlocking connection. That being said, if a connection was completely secured the mild bumps your system gets from accidentally knocking your foot against it and other mild abuses could knock that connection loose to the point it causes boot failure. A repair shop can check this quickly. If you are comfortable cracking open that computer case you can always check the integrity of your connections for free.

Finally, we come to the issue of overheating. The PSU problem is still the most probable, but overheating is not uncommon either. If you are not regularly cleaning the inside of your PC dust can accumulate that causes additional heat to the components in a variety of different ways. Dust is often the death of a machine. If you have not opened your PC on a monthly basis (I recommend more frequently), or if you are like many people and never open it at all; you may have a large amount of dust built up clogging air flow to your components. Open the chassis and vacuum out the computer with a vacuum hose. Be cautious if you have a high power vacuum and do not get any wires sucked up as this can cause damage. Do not use "Air Duster" to clean the inside of electronics. That stuff is really more of a problem than a problem solver. It can actually force dust into components in areas where it cannot be seen, blocks more airflow, and summarily produces more heat. Sometimes cleaning out your computer and improving the airflow is all that is needed to prevent overheating.

Good luck with figuring this one out, and please let me know if any of this helps you out.

Surprised that your mechanic didn't mention the spark plug. The wrong plug type is a major cause of overheating. Speak nicely to your local Honda dealer and ask his advice. You don't have to buy your plugs from him once you know which one you need visit your local motor factors the difference in cost will shock you.

Overheating ignition coils can be due to a number of causes. The symptoms are always the same though: poor or non-existent hot engine starting and rough running and misfiring whilst running.

The first is simply due to age: if it's traditional "wet" coil filled with transformer oil, then the oil can either leak out or simply break down with age. If so, the fix is simply to replace it and there are often modern compatible dry resin coils which do away with the oil filling completely. Dry resin coils can also fail with age or hard use, but it's far less common than with wet coils. A failing coil which usually works perfectly well be over-stressed if the vehicle is left idling for long periods on a hot day, such as during summer traffic jams. In such conditions, the coil will usually recover if the engine is turned off allowing the coil to cool down, but the damage caused by overheating is cumulative and the coil will become increasingly prone to overheating.

The second most common cause is a poorly tuned engine (if the vehicle is equipped with a distributor). If the ignition timing is incorrect or if the points gap has lessened due to wear then the coil can be energised for too long and will overheat. Note that the points gap and distributor timing are related: if the points are replaced or re-gapped, then the timing MUST be checked and reset both statically (engine not running, turned over by hand) and dynamically (engine running). Incorrect timing can also be down to a faulty or non-functional ignition advance and ****** mechanism. If you do not have ignition contact points, then there may be a fault with the electronic ignition module within the distributor.

If the vehicle has completely electronic ignition with no distributor then it's possible for faulty components to cause overheating coil. Most incorporate a variable dwell feature which prevents the coil from overheating when the engine is idling for extended periods. But I suspect this does not apply to your vehicle as you refer to a singular coil rather than the multiple (dry resin) coil packs mounted directly atop the spark plugs as per modern fully electronic ignitions. In any case, diagnosis of a fault with this set up requires electronic diagnostic tools.

I hope that my reply has been of assistance to you; if so please take a moment to rate my answer. If there's anything I've written which is unclear then please add a comment asking me for further clarification.

Compressor tipping is typically due to overheating. A single bimetal disc thermostat (e.g. Klixon brand device) in located within the motor windings within hermetically sealed compressors which will cut off motor current after the local windings have sufficiently overheated.

Unfortunately, by the time this limiter has activated, the compressor motor and pump has typically already suffered mild to major damage.

Compressor overheating is typically a result of low freon. The freon, besides cooling the compressor, also carries the lubricant, so low freon results in a hot compressor with poor lubrication, with some degree of permanent damage by the time the internal limiter has activated.

There are a few other possibilities, depending on system design, but some version of the above scenario is typical.

When the compressor runs hot, this also initiates chemical changes in the freon and oil resulting in acids with further attack both the compressor pump, motor windings and motor bearings, a viscous circle.

Compressor overheating can also be a result of contaminants circulating within the freon or evolving mechanical failure problems within the compressor pump or motor.

Better systems (very few high end residential central AC systems) include OEM or field installed high freon pressure and low freon pressure cut out switches connected to circuits which stop the compressor and keep it off when pressure are well beyond desired.
These are far more effective in protecting the compressor and preventing permanent damage.

Additional protection options are a compressor discharge temperature limit switch (shuts off the compressor if the outlet freon goes well above desirable outlet temps), and a flow switch which sense adequate condenser fan air flow and only allows the compressor to run when adequate air flow is present (a second or so after the condenser fan has started). (Since condenser air flow is what removes all the system and interior heat, the compressor should not run unless airflow is appropriate.)

While all the above 4 safety device strategies are relatively inexpensive, they are not present in the vast majority of residential AC systems sold in the US.

There's a loose contact between your plug and the electric convenience outlet. That's precisely why this is getting overheated. At this point, it is best to replace the plug as well as the electrical outlet, before an accident happen. Overheating of electrical points is one of the major causes of fire. So, be sure to replace the plug and the outlet, before it burns yourhouse. Send us your e mail comments so we canassist you further. God bless you.

if you get an overflow through the resevior it's often times because the thermostat with stick shut causeing excess pressure. seeing is the car is not overheating this means that the trhermostat is opening but when you get that overflow it's sticking i would replace the thermostat as soon as possible to resolve this issue

O man! You have a major prob!!! The head is warped, will need to be machined, and the list goes on!! If you want to keep this car do consider a rebuilt engine. That is the most frugal way to solve your prob! Sorry Frankster016