I have a 508T (V1) mounted on a GEN 5 Glock 19 MOS using a C&H Precision Weapons adapter plate (V3). I only have 600 rounds fired, but so far everything has remained tight and zero maintained. I went from a RMR Type 2 to the 508T for the Holosun circle dot reticle. I had significant visual distortion with the RMR Type 1 and Type 2 dot (and every other dot for that matter). The circle dot reticle on the Holosun is a clear image for some reason. I found the auto brightness mode on the Holosun to not really work for me. Usually too dim or too bright depending on light conditions. I have it set to manual brightness. I have not noticed any lag time on the auto off feature. A couple of other points. The first 508T I received was dead on arrival. It was replaced with no hassle. There is a 508T V2 that was announced at Shot Show. Biggest difference is side battery load vs bottom. I preordered the 509T a month ago and within the last week it went from shipping in days to shipping in months. I’m guessing the same will hold true for the 508T V2. I suspect that due to virus related supply chain issues, we won’t see these products for a while. Also, we may see existing stock dwindle as supply lags. I picked up an additional 508T V1 in the meantime. BTW, this is a non-duty use setup. Hope this helps a bit.

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one? Does the MOS not coming with what is needed?

I'm definitely curious on the 508V2 and 509. 509 especially so, though, I'm curious about holster fit with the larger footprint. I'm a fan of battery life, as that is one thing making me skeptical about the DPP.

I'm running two 508T's on stock MOS plates for Gen 4 Glock 17 and a Gen 4 Glock 19. Both have been on for a couple of months and so far, other than having to shit can the original batteries, both have been stellar. I ordered direct from the factory and got them with the LE programing module which locks out the auto adjust and the shake awake. Holosun's officer purchase program is outstanding and the guys involved are great to work with.

We right now authorize the 508T, the DPP, and the RMR. All will remain authorized but we purchased 508T's for the entire Department immediately before the first of the year.

My 19 has only a few hundred rounds downrange but the 17 has quite a few more and as I said, both have been outstanding albeit with a sample size of 2 personally with about 20 in the Dept. We are going to detail track the Dept issue so I'll have better data probably by the end of the year. We will have 140+ in issue by then.

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one? Does the MOS not coming with what is needed?

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one? Does the MOS not coming with what is needed?

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

The OEM Glock MOS plates also don’t completely cover/seal the bottom on the RMR as they are sized to the slide, serrations and all.

The CHPWS plate is wider than the slide and matches the footprint of the RMR/Holosuns.

In the last week or so I have seen sales popping up all over the place for the gen 1 Holosun sights, as it looks like they are clearing stock to make room for the V2 versions.

I have 2 507C's and 1 407C. The 507's are on my G45 and P10 (both with milled slides) and the 407 is on a Canik SFX. I've got a couple of thousand rounds on each of those and I have had zero issues. The G45 is my carry gun at work now. I am planning to swap over to a 508T V2 for work and pick up a 507K and have my G48 milled for it.

Any thoughts on the Holosun 508 and 509? Both appear to be newer, yea? One is a closed design. I’m coming from a gen 1 RMR. Considering something new that needs to be duty read on a g45 mos.

I’m cross shopping DPP, Holosun and RMR 2.

The holosun uses a different emitter than the RMR, which for many results in a crisper dot, myself included. I have astigmatism and most dots are blurry to my eye, but the Holosun is crisp. I use a v1 407 and it's one of my favorite optics, I don't really see a need for the titanium housing at this point.

I have a 509T on pre-order with Holosun, but who knows when I'll see it. Nice thing is it comes with an RMR footprint adapter so no additional slide work is needed.

For the ones you have listed I would go Holosun > DPP > RMR. ACRO is my favorite, but also one of the most expensive.

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one? Does the MOS not coming with what is needed?

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

The OEM Glock MOS plates also don’t completely cover/seal the bottom on the RMR as they are sized to the slide, serrations and all.

The CHPWS plate is wider than the slide and matches the footprint of the RMR/Holosuns.

The CHPWS plate is an absolute win. Solves all the issues I had with the OEM Glock mounting plate. Worth every penny. They have a great good guy discount and they will send you out a T&E model to check out.

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries. Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed.

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

Got the 507C from Holosun and my milled slide back from Defensive Creations. Very happy with the look of the plate from Chambers and the milling from DC. Hope to get it out to the range and sighted in this weekend.

As a side note, when an LFer asked via text what gun I was putting the 507C on, and I said 1911, in LF fashion he replied "Boomer Gat". So from this point forward it will be known as Boomer Gat.

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries. Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed.

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

I recommend having a few spares on hand. Once upon a time I put a fresh battery into my optic at the hotel the night before training. There I was standing outside the shoothouse in Alliance the next day when I turned on my PRO to.... nothing. I made the run on irons and then got bailed out by one of the instructors luckily having a 1/3n battery. Sheer luck as not a lot of things use 1/3n.

I would most certainly do it if I had the upcoming V2s from Holosun as the new battery size isn’t anywhere near as common as a 2032.

Anyway- I got an email today that I’m lucky enough to be in the evaluation cadre for the CHPWS V4 plate. The details of it sound pretty sweet.

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries. Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed.

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

Most just change on a landmark date like 1st of the year or birthday, that way you never come close to it dying

Tony, I've always used blue locktite; however looking at directions for something similar (Dawson's DUO mount for the staccato P), Dave Dawson suggests (and ships) 262 (red) and uses an incredibly small amount. In his instruction video he states something along the lines that 262 comes loose when you want it to, rather than when it wants to.

I don't run Locktite on my RMR screws on my glock. Instead, I put a dot of dark-colored nail polish from my wife's stash on top of the screw, bridging the seam between the head of the screw and the RMR body. It has held up great for 2+ years now (replacing the polish after battery swaps), and not only keeps the screw from walking loose, but is also a visual indicator of it coming out when the blob breaks.

I tried blue locktite on the screws when I first got it, but still had issues with them coming loose. I was afraid to put any extra torque on the screws and risk wrecking the threads on the slide, as my Glock is set up for direct mounting of the RMR (no adapter/plate).

Loctite is complex. Colors are re-used, to confuse us. Use numbers instead to be sure what you are getting.

While not exactly a lay guide, so not easy to understand in full, this is the best anyone has given me to figure out which to use where. The list on page 9 is pretty complete, others are shorthand, most-used ones.

Loctite is complex. Colors are re-used, to confuse us. Use numbers instead to be sure what you are getting.

While not exactly a lay guide, so not easy to understand in full, this is the best anyone has given me to figure out which to use where. The list on page 9 is pretty complete, others are shorthand, most-used ones.

first, I'm no officially trained armorer, mechanic etc ... I'm a shade tree of all these skills, that said, I have spent a lot of time cursing in the shade of a tree OJT'ing these skills

My OJT lessons on LocTite "colors".

I use LocTite blue, "medium". I haven't had a problem so far on weapons. Super low sample size, of course, but I do run my gear pretty hard for a civilian training. Several thousands of rounds per year between rifle and pistol (more pistol using pRDO) and haven't had a problem. I'm very paranoid about nuts/bolts/screws from my time in Naval Aviation wire wrapping nuts on to make sure they don't fall off. I check my screws/bolts/nuts before and after events to make sure they are secure and "blue" has never let loose on me. FWIW.

I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun. I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree) but I'm built like a gorilla and know my way around breaker bars, prior to this event never met a bolt I couldn't get off ... well, learning occurred.

I read the FUCK out of the LocTite when I buy it in the store now to make sure I don't buy or use the permanent stuff unless I KNOW I want it.

If I put "red" on any of those tiny PRDO screws, I'm not sure if it can be taken off without destroying it. If I made that mistake I would probably walk it to a real armorer and see if they could manage.

...I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun. I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree)...

If you need to heat a screw to release it, at the scale we're talking on guns at least, try a soldering iron. Put the tip on the screw itself, wait just a few seconds, then hit it with the driver.

And avoid Red (271, but I prefer sticks for most so 268 here) for pretty much anything gun scale. You'll strip the screws before you realize it needs heat, then you are drilling. I would guess. I have certainly never had to drill out a stripped screw on an MRDS, then because it's a plastic case, ovaled the hole. Nope. Not me.

...I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun. I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree)...

If you need to heat a screw to release it, at the scale we're talking on guns at least, try a soldering iron. Put the tip on the screw itself, wait just a few seconds, then hit it with the driver.

And avoid Red (271, but I prefer sticks for most so 268 here) for pretty much anything gun scale. You'll strip the screws before you realize it needs heat, then you are drilling. I would guess. I have certainly never had to drill out a stripped screw on an MRDS, then because it's a plastic case, ovaled the hole. Nope. Not me.

nice ! So simple and easy and I just happen to have a soldering iron. LF for the win ! amazing amount of collective knowledge on this forum !

I bought a small Craftsman socket wrench set at Ace to hold me over until I can get a better more gun oriented set.

So the Aimpoint mounting plate is mounted and the Loctite is taking a set. I will try Vibratite on the next mounting, but I am attempting to get the ACRO mounted and zeroed before TACON so I can take Scott Jedlinski’s 4-hour Pistol Red Dot course.

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