I am hoping to do some river trapping next trapping season and I am thinking drowning rods may be my best option. My questions are what diameter and lengths do you use? Also what are you staking through on the top end? I was thinking of welding a large washer on the top and then something on the bottom so the trap can't slide off the bottom, but then how would you get your trap on over the washer? Sorry I'm very new at this. Thanks for any help.

There was an article some years back about this onein Fur Fish and Game. I made four of 'em and have only used them once because i like conibears a whole lot better. With that said their going in the water this weekend. First and foremost dont use rebar if you have a steel supply or local welder get some 1/2 inch cold roll round. Make an L shaped lock like a Berkshire snare lock the short end of the L needs a hole drilled 9/16ths the long only needs to be as big as what your connecting with I use C Clamps. I wield a large washer at the top end. Slide the L on from the bottom upside down then heat and mash the bottom end to keep the lock from coming off. Then I take rebar and cut it to about 18 inch and wield a small bar on the end to make a T. Attach the trap to the pole, set you trap stake down the pole and collect hopefully. Might to to get some pics up in a few days to show ya what I mean.

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Like R.D. said, 1/2" rebar, 10' long is a good length for most situations. 3/8" with much use turns into a straightened pretzel, and will bend easier every time. Also, you need the backbone of 1/2" to get the rod into the bottom in hard bottom situations. Rebar works just as good as cold steel and is cheaper. I weld a stop up 18" from the end. Washers welded on the top end are fine, but you will have to have your lock on permanently if you do this. I do it this way, and just use mighty hooks for attaching the trap to the lock when needed. In the picture, the bend in the rod is there only because of the weight of the trap. A small bend is helpful though to make sure the rod is clear of the bottom and the lock can slide smoothly to the bottom.

I know the rerod is used by some people but I'd use the smooth rod too. I have some that are 8 feet long and of 3/8 rod. They are easier to bend but work fine. 8 feet rods are easier to haul around. I think a 10 footer would be better but have not had problems with the shorter. Also, I know there are posts of this in the archives. You can use drowning rods for beaver to muskrats. I have a few of the 3/16 rods like Schmidt used to sell for coon and mink. Never liked them too well though. Josh, you didn't say what you were gonna use them for so I assumed you ment beaver.

Thanks for all the help so far guys. I did search the archives for "drowning rods" and wasn't having alot of luck. HDK I will be using them for beaver and coon. I do have access to cold roll steel round stock at work, but I would have to check on pricing though.

That's what I was thinking Goldy. I could check the pricing at work but I just did a little searching online at rebar prices, and that is looking a lot better. What types of businesses would sell rebar locally? Menards or Farm and Fleet possibly?

Here's three types of locks I use. They all work well, but the bottom one is the easiest to make. 1" thin-wall tubing with a piece of flat steel welded on to attach your trap to. Or if you don't have a welder, MTP sells a kit called the "Bauer no-weld drowning system" that has all the locks and stops. All you need is the rebar.

goldyI have been using smooth drowners for a long time, and was going to make some new ones out of 1/2" rebar. I tried to make the drowner lock out of 1" square stock, but could never get it to lock on the rebar right. could you or someone give me some lenghts of the locks and angle cuts (if any). THANKS

Hmmm. I remember having that problem years ago too. Can't remember for sure what I did. Did you use the thin-wall stuff? Most of mine are about 1" - 1 3/8" long, thin-walled, with an angle cut in the front, with a tab welded on the front. No problems now. The square tubing lock may not lock up well on smooth rod, just to let you know. If you do use it on smooth rod, keep the tube short, like 5/8".

yes i used the thin walled ones mine were close to 2" they seemed to work fine when the groves on the rebar were going in the right direction. but when they wern't the lock would go up the rebar and not catch.

I just measured my locks. They are 1" on the bottom, 1 1/2" on the top. They lock tight instantly everytime. If your using thick wall tube and longer than 2", I can see where they might not lock instantly. Anything less than 1" and I would think the lock wouldn't slide as easily on rebar with all the grooves. Also, if you're just using your finger to test it, you aren't getting a true test. Hook up a trap with a chain onto the lock and try it. It might be different.