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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

My New Butterick Patterns for Spring 2014!

Exciting day! I have two new pattern designs that just released. The first is B6019, and it's a dress I've been dreaming of for a long time. Ever since I did the Bombshell Dress class on Craftsy, I've wanted a dress pattern that was more authentic to the designs of Alfred Shaheen. Here are a couple of his designs from the '50s, to give you an idea.

I love the details: the bias band across the bodice, boned bodice, structured bra cups, removable halter strap, sarong skirt, and elastic shirring. So I designed a pattern to these exact specifications. Here's the line drawing.

As you can see, there's a full-skirted version in addition to the sarong version.

The bra cups have batting for structure.

There's shirring in the back panels, and a lapped center back zipper.

The second pattern is very different: lingerie!

B6031 was inspired by vintage lingerie, but is made in modern stretch fabrics. As much as I love the look of vintage slips, I find the nylon fabric they're made of to be sticky and uncomfortable.

So I designed something similar in matte jersey. This is an entire lingerie set with slip, camisole in 2 lengths, and panties.

All the designs are finished with stretch lace and pretty bows.

The undies are my modern interpretation of vintage style panties. They have full butt coverage and low-cut legs but the waist is shaped more like a boyshort. You can make them higher waisted for an authentic '50s look!

I hope you enjoy the new patterns! I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

Ha! My sister and I, great slip-skippers in the past (to mom's chagrin), have now faced our adult bodies and find we NEED SLIPS. The few that can be found are very expensive, are worn with all the grace of a sausage casing, and don't actually do the job of gliding a dress over bumps and bulges. "Please make me a proper slip for Christmas", she said. I was forced (FORCED) to buy yellowed vintage nylon tricot nightgowns and robes and remake them into wearable slips for us. Fortunately the fabric dyed very nicely with some Rit leftovers I had on hand.

Post more vintage pictures of slips for inspiration, the detailing on mom's 60's slips was just gorgeous. I wish I'd kept them when I grew out of them as a teenager.

My mom taught us to wear decent underpinnings too, and I always did. I prefer the slippery nylon to the "whatever that stretchy stuff is" they are making slips out of now. I bought a 1/2 slip and it drives me crazy because it doesn't "slip" over me, it hugs every lump! Even resorted to combining to old 1/2 slips that were too small to make me one decent one!!

Oh I'm very excited about the dress, egads! I've always loved the Bombshell Dress but never could *quite* see how I could translate the pattern to something other than a more formal style (meaning: something I wouldn't get to wear a lot), but I can completely envision this dress pattern as a Shaheen-inspired sundress. Plus, I love how you tried to stay true to an original Shaheen style (and what a great style it is). It's a fantastic looking pattern, congrats!

It's a mock sarong--it has a left and a right side that wrap over each other. It's not a real sarong because it doesn't have a tie--the two layers are sewn into the waist seam. Does that make sense? :)

I'm actually really excited about the lingerie pattern! I've been thinking about attempting underwear, and it's nice to see a pattern that might actually cover my butt, lol! The camisole also looks like it would be easy to build some support in, since it's more of an empire waist, so it looks like it could be great to adapt to my regular layering habits!

Perhaps nylon is hot and sticky, but SILK is wonderful!!! I like a taffeta slip under a knit dress. It smooths out the bumps like nothing else!! Hand washing is very small inconvenience for a very great luxury!

I second this; I've just made myself a very simple bias-cut slip in some gorgeous silk which looks like liquid metal, and I have another piece, in deep aubergine, waiting for the same treatment. Still, I do quite like the idea of machine-washable lingerie. And I suppose one could always upgrade to silk jersey, for a touch of luxury?

I absolutely love the dress Gertie! They're both brilliant looking patterns. Do you think your Craftsy course would be good guidance to make up this dress, or is the construction very different to the Bombshell?

congrats Gertie! i hope you sell lots and lots of these! the dress is beautiful and the sculptural details are just magnificent! The lingerie set is really beautiful too! i looks really easy. if you wanted to make this is normal slip-type fabric, would the pattern be the same or would you have to allow more room for movement? ive never gone from stretch fabric to plain weave fabric for a pattern.

I love the dress! Does the shirring mean there is a little extra breathing room in the bodice? I usually stay away from super fitted bodices because I don't like how they feel on, but this looks like it would be super comfortable.

Do you think I could make this up in a chiffon if I had a satin lining? I was so inspired by your ombre fabrics that when I was in NYC this weekend, I picked up an ombre chiffon that progresses from sky blue to a sweet green pea color. I would love to use it for this project but it seems like you need something with more body.

I saw the lingerie pattern last night and was wondering about it since the site did not have a description and the photo looked like a boyshort but the drawing looked like a pantie. Thanks for the description! It really helped and I can't wait to work on this one. I'm looking forward to you post on lingerie supply recommendations too.

The dress is fabulous! That's my favourite style to wear but I always find store bought versions too small in the bust and too short in the waist. Thank you for including options for up to a D cup, I will definitely be adding these to the sewing queue! Hoping for a sew along! Well done Gertie!

I was SO stoked to see these pop up on the Butterick site!! I have a dress that is super similiar to the halter version in a super fun Hawaiian print that I've had probably since college that I LOVE but it's getting a bit worn (duh. College was a long time ago!). I keep saying, Oh, I should try to figure this pattern out. And lo and behold here it is!! And the bias strap is an extra fun detail. SO excited!! And the lingerie looks super comfy too...Oh dear I may have to get both!

I've been reading your blog for awhile now and am so new to sewing in general that I've not been sure where to start with these incredible clothes you make. I am resolved to try the lingerie pattern in 2014! Is it better for you in any way if I buy now at full price versus on sale later on?

I am so happy to see the lingerie pattern. I, too, dislike the usual cheap nylon used in store bought slips. It's like wearing plastic wrap, so i usually eschew dressing and skirts altogether which is a shame. I like the dress, too, but I am much larger than the size range of the pattern, and I lack the fitting/altering skills needed to adapt the pattern to my figure. But it is the first vintage style pattern in the history of ever that has appealed to me. I'm tempted to buy it anyway.

I can't tell you how happy I am about the lingerie pattern! I have been searching far and wide for one that is both comfortable and stylish, and I hadn't had any luck -- this, however, is perfect. Thank you!

I have got to have the lingerie pattern! I had a similar slip pattern 40 years ago, but it disappeared. I love making slips because they are so easy and I can have fancy lingerie for a fraction of the cost. I do like the dresses but they would not flatter my figure. They would look fabulous on my adult daughters. I love your blog because it inspires me to sew.

Love the Maggie the Cat inspired slip... would love it even more if it were modelled on someone with curves... what do you feel about that option? Would be very interested to learn how much control you have over model sizing at Butterick.

Lovely patterns, Gertie! I love the shirring in the side panels for a perfect, tight, yet confortable fit of the dress. And the lingerie, both pieces, just perfect. We are only left to find the right fabric, stretchy yet most natural fibers, a necessary requirement of mine (call me picky, I can't stand plastic on my skin). Sewing the lingerie must also be tricky, handling the right stretch on lace before sewing it. And I wonder what kind of elastic stitch/thread is used to keep the elasticity. I have yet to wonder into the lingerie realm...

I really like the slip design and find myself inspired to try lingerie and knits. I hope you will share sources for lingerie fabrics and stretch lace. Nice ones are hard to find for those of us not in NYC. Btw, it is sometimes difficult to leave comments on your blog. Maybe it's just the ipad, but if I make a mistake and try to edit, the comment screen freezes up.

Thank you for these Gertie! Looks like Butterick are on sale Jan 31 and Feb 1st at Joann so I will be picking these up. So glad to see a Shaheen pattern as it seems to be the holy grail on Ebay and never in a larger size. These are going to make so many gals happy. :)

Love them both!! Ever since making the bombshell dress from your class I've been in love with this style too, so I'm definitely putting the dress on my wishlist! ^__^ And lingerie - lovely to have all the essentials in one pattern - that one is going on my wishlist as well :)

Very charming patterns. True vintage Shaheen patterns on sites like Ebay tend to sell for a lot of money these days. Doesn't leave anything in your budget to get fabric if you want to make one. For those looking for lingerie fabrics and laces check out Sew Sassy. And for those brave souls who are daring enough to make their own swimsuits they have stuff for those too. I've ordered swimsuit fabric and poly laminate foam (create your own bra cups) from them. No complaints so far.

Love the underwear!! But, I'm still working through your book, so let's put buying new patterns on hold. I started my second dress. I made a wiggle dress and it fits amazing and gives me curves!! And now I started a kind of sheath dress with a different neckline and skirt with inverted pleats... It's starting to look superb :) I love this dress pattern, but I don't think it'll suit my body type :/ The 50's don't always love me back :)

It appears that I'm in the minority here, but I'm completely unimpressed, even a little disappointed by these new patterns. I'm of a mind that most of the beauty and elegance of the original Shaheen dresses is in the wrap, and your knockoff pattern destroys that. With a faux wrap, it's simply another loud hawaiian print dress, out of place in most venues. And your lingerie pattern! The entire point of a slip is to SLIP over you and let the dress glide on without catching on all your lady lumps and bumps. Making it in a stretch anything defeats the purpose, causing the resulting garment to highlight all those unsightly bulges. It's not necessary to make them out of nylon or polyester like in the old days. A lovely drapey silk would be divine. I had hoped for better from someone so involved in Vintage culture. I feel like any young lady that has newly discovered her love for vintage fashions would be led in the wrong direction and might not have the experience to know it's the pattern/fabric to blame and not herself.

I'm going to write more about why I chose to do the slip in a stretch fabric. With the right stretch fabric, it does glide over the body and is infinitely more comfortable than a woven. Fabric choice is key, so I'll definitely be posting soon!