By: Jean-J. Etienne

Posted: January 23, 2012, from the February 2012 issue of P&F magazine.

The 30th Essential Oil Days (Journées des Huiles Essentielles [APPAM]) and International Congress of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants (Congrès International Plantes Aromatiques et Médicinales [PAM]), co-organized by APPAM and Pole PASS (competitive cluster for perfume, aroma, smell and flavors), were held jointly recently in Digne-les-Bains, France, serving as an opportunity to discuss ingredients produced in developing countries and broader issues surrounding ingredient trade and quality.

Jean-Pierre de Mattos (Mane) discussed various consumer preference trends. One style, dubbed “Tribal Forces,” will introduce spicy, leathery and woody notes for men, according to de Mattos, increasing the demand for patchouli, sandalwood and oud. The “Eco-Luxe” concept, meanwhile, will be characterized by new green and sparkling notes for men, including mature lemon, basil and fennel notes. For women, this trend will manifest with fresh grass, hyacinth and springlike notes. Female consumers will also seek out so-called “new chypres.”

Inevitably, naturals associated with these fragrance trends will face new demands, and so de Mattos reviewed the present situation of several ingredients:

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