Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig

Overview

This jig allows you to rip thin strips on the left side of the blade, eliminating the danger of pushing narrow strips between the saw and fence. Since the strip is not trapped between the blade and fence, there is also less risk of binding and kickback. It's simple to use; a single knob locks the jig into the miter track and locks your setting at the same time. Ball bearing guide keeps your workpiece firmly against the fence for perfect repeatability. Use the graduated scale to fine-tune for extremely thin strips.

Features:

The perfect tool for edging, inlay, bent laminations and more

Solid phenolic for durability

Low-profile miter track clamp locks in at any point along the miter track

Also works great on the bandsaw as a single-point fence for cutting curved slats in multiples

Adjusts from 1-3/8" away from your miter track to 5-11/16" away from your miter track, enough for the thinnest rips

Measures 5-1/4"W x 8"L

The jig is stationary, while the fence is moved for each cut

Fits 3/4" W x 3/8" D Miter Tracks

Important Notes

Ripping thin strips requires the use of a zero-clearance insert, sold separately.

It seemed like something I could use. I am glad I purchased this tool. I use it every time I have to rip lumber within it's size parameters. This is a great tool and all woodworkers should have one in their shop.

It will be safer than the way I've done it for years, especially when cutting very thin pieces. That, and the fact that a shop full of tools only proves that I can't pass on a neat gadget, whether I really need it or not

It seemed like something I could use. I am glad I purchased this tool. I use it every time I have to rip lumber within it's size parameters. This is a great tool and all woodworkers should have one in their shop.

It will be safer than the way I've done it for years, especially when cutting very thin pieces. That, and the fact that a shop full of tools only proves that I can't pass on a neat gadget, whether I really need it or not

BEST ANSWER:The bearing on the thin rip jig acts as a positive stop for repeatable thin strip creation. It does act as a feather board as the rolling bearing keeps positive pressure against the piece being cut. The reference lines on the yellow band also allows for small incremental adjustments. It works equally well as a re-saw guide on the bandsaw for thin strips. The only negative that I have on this jig is the lack of a hole in the jig to hang it up for easy access.

I use it to make thin strips for basket handles, basket staves, rims, and dulcimer sides. This works better and safer than the feather boards that I was using previously.

BEST ANSWER:The bearing on the thin rip jig acts as a positive stop for repeatable thin strip creation. It does act as a feather board as the rolling bearing keeps positive pressure against the piece being cut. The reference lines on the yellow band also allows for small incremental adjustments. It works equally well as a re-saw guide on the bandsaw for thin strips. The only negative that I have on this jig is the lack of a hole in the jig to hang it up for easy access.

I use it to make thin strips for basket handles, basket staves, rims, and dulcimer sides. This works better and safer than the feather boards that I was using previously.

There should be no reason you couldn't place a feather board in front. of the jig. The jig does have a small roller bearing to allow the wood to move and avoid pinching it. A feather board would help to prevent kickback on the fence side of the blade. If you use a push stick and keep support behind the piece you should be fine. Nice little jig for repeatable thin rips.

BEST ANSWER:It doesn't matter which side of the blade you place the jig, as long as your fence is on the side of the blade opposite the jig. You'll have to have some reference surface (i.e. the fence) to get consistent cuts.

BEST ANSWER:It doesn't matter which side of the blade you place the jig, as long as your fence is on the side of the blade opposite the jig. You'll have to have some reference surface (i.e. the fence) to get consistent cuts.

BEST ANSWER:I use the single Thin Rip jig and a finishing blade to cut walnut basketry strips of .070 thick and 50" long and only have variation of .001"-.005" over the entire lengths which is finished on a drum sander. If you need additional support on long pieces for accuracy, I would recommend a finger jig in front of the Thin Rip jig to add additional pressure against the workpiece and fence. A second Thin Rip jig could be used for the same purpose.

BEST ANSWER:I use the single Thin Rip jig and a finishing blade to cut walnut basketry strips of .070 thick and 50" long and only have variation of .001"-.005" over the entire lengths which is finished on a drum sander. If you need additional support on long pieces for accuracy, I would recommend a finger jig in front of the Thin Rip jig to add additional pressure against the workpiece and fence. A second Thin Rip jig could be used for the same purpose.

This device acts like a stop before the cut is made. It needs to be placed a few inched in front of the blade as shown in the photo (not in the middle or behind the blade). I do not see how 2 devices would improve accuracy.

BEST ANSWER:The knob attaches to a 5/16" , countersunk bolt that is 1 1/2" long. The bolt comes up from the base plate, trough the miter guide. The countersunk bolt expands the miter guide to secure it in the miter slot.

BEST ANSWER:The knob attaches to a 5/16" , countersunk bolt that is 1 1/2" long. The bolt comes up from the base plate, trough the miter guide. The countersunk bolt expands the miter guide to secure it in the miter slot.

BEST ANSWER:The miter slider is 18.85mm wide and 9.15mm deep. So this portion of the jig will not work on your tool. So I would say it would not work for you.You have an odd sized miter slot on this saw.

BEST ANSWER:The miter slider is 18.85mm wide and 9.15mm deep. So this portion of the jig will not work on your tool. So I would say it would not work for you.You have an odd sized miter slot on this saw.

My Hitachi contractor table saw miter slot is only 9/16" wide by 3/8" deep. This Rockler jig description says miter slot bar is 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Does Rockler have a miter bar that can be installed in place of the 3/4" wide one that would fit my 9/16" wide table saw slot?

BEST ANSWER:No. However, you might be able to make a bar out of oak that is 9/16" wide x 5" long x 3/8" deep and screw it in place of the original bar. Then the jig would need to be clamped to the table top to hold its position firmly in place. Maybe using a 2x4 cut to the length of your saw table top mounted on the blue top of the jig with "C" clamps on each end of the 2x4 would hold the jig in place. You could cut a 5 1/4" wide dado in the 2x4 1/8" deep or so to better fit over the Blue top of the jig. Just a possible solution for you.

BEST ANSWER:No. However, you might be able to make a bar out of oak that is 9/16" wide x 5" long x 3/8" deep and screw it in place of the original bar. Then the jig would need to be clamped to the table top to hold its position firmly in place. Maybe using a 2x4 cut to the length of your saw table top mounted on the blue top of the jig with "C" clamps on each end of the 2x4 would hold the jig in place. You could cut a 5 1/4" wide dado in the 2x4 1/8" deep or so to better fit over the Blue top of the jig. Just a possible solution for you.

Reviews

My neighbor decided he wanted to build a strip canoe. I had the table saw. I was a little unsure about ripping 20' long red cedar boards into consistent 1/4" strips. Saw this jig and decided - for the cost - it would be worth a try. It worked and worked well. We even had to set it up again later to cut some more 20' boards and the strips came out just like the others.

This tool appears well built and is much heavier than I thought it would be. It does a fine job of making repeat cuts of identical width. However, it is not without problems that make this jig more or less unusable for me. First of all, the fit of the miter bar in my miter slot is sloppy and there is no adjustment in the bar. This requires you to push the jig to either side of the miter slot and do it the same way every time. Secondly, cutting thin strips often require much greater precision that 1/16&quot;. My old, homemade jig is accurate to 1/64&quot;. Much trial and error is necessary until the width of the first strip is correct. After that, the subsequent strips are identical. A finer ruler would eliminate this problem. Lastly, cutting thin strips often goes hand in hand with very thin stock. The bearing is 5/32&quot; above the table saw table, which means it will only work with stock that is at least 5/32&quot; thick. The bearing should be mounted lower to allow for cutting really thin stock. This is potentially a good jig. For some people, it will work fine as is. With a few refinements, it can work fine for everyone.

Editor's note: This jig features a locking miter bar Ernest. If you have slop or are having to hold the jig then you are not utilizing the locking miter bar feature. It is an expanding type bar that spreads when tightened.

I began by grumbling that this was useless for me because it would not open enough to reach the blade on my Bosch 4100 table saw. So into the junk drawer it went until the light finally dawned. About five seconds on the router table solved the problem by extending the length of the adjustment slot. Now it works as advertised and is out of the junk drawer and into regular use.

This jig is nicely put together and produces accurate cuts once setup. My only complaints are that miter bar it uses is a little sloppy in the miter gauge slot on my saw. There's about a 1/16&quot; gap between the bar and slot when the bar is pushed to one side of the slot. In order to get the gauge to sit without moving in the slot I have to really crank down on the nut to spread the miter bar enough--if I don't it has enough side to side play that throws the cut off. I'm not sure if it is just a problem with my jig/saw combo or not. I didn't see where any of the other reviewers had the same issues. I may take this one back to the store and see if another works better. Also, I have some of the Rockler miter slot bars to use with your own jigs. None of those have any side to side play in the slot and only require a minimum amount of tightening to hold the jigs I've made. For reference I'm using a Delta 36-675 contractor.Also, the scale is nice but not numbered. So, you need to remember what position you zeroed the jig at before moving it for your cut. Not a biggie but it would have been nice to be able to zero it once and then be able to use the numbers on the scale. As it is, I just marked my zeroed setting with a colored marker.I would have given this jig a 5 if it weren't for the miter bar problem. If I can get that miter bar problem resolved I'd definitely bump this one up to a 5.

Easier to use than I thought, and worked as advertised. I made eight rip cuts at 3/8" without skipping or binding. I don't have a zero-clearance insert, but my son was on the outfeed side to keep things moving smoothly. It's worth every penny.

The up side is it works very well. Set up was about 10 seconds. Once you know how far from the blade it will rest at its closest, you can use the graded scale to place it whatever distance you want from the blade. It will make thick cuts too so it is nice for highly repeatable precision ripping as well. If not for the downside in my situation, I would have given it 5 stars. The down side is that on my Bridgewood saw, the thinnest it will cut is 1/8th of an inch so it wont get me to the 1/16th I was going for to make edge banding for some plywood I was working with for shelving. I had to use the thicker cuts. Not a travesty but it would be nice to have been able to get the thinner pieces.If you do a lot of repetitive precision ripping, I think two of them would work really well for quicker reset for next cut. Since the blade is in the center of the table, with only one of them set closer to the infeed you can create a slight intial cantilever on the fence if you are not a little careful. With the two points of contact before the blade, this possible effect will be alleviated. Also note that the stated reason for the jig is that it prevents you from having to rip the small pieces between the blade and the fence where binding and kickback are a higher possibility. It does do this well! Don't be discouraged from buying it by the guy in the video actually making the cuts the same way both times, cutting the small strip on the left side of the blade, not the right side then left with the jig. (It was pretty obvious that he pushed his stock into the blade at an angle while it was engaged causing the work piece to kick back. As he found this causes unpredictable results.)

I have used this several times to rip 1/16&quot; thick strips of hard maple, oak, and poplar with amazing success each time. The stability of the fixture with the table saw fence has resulted in perfect pieces each time. I enjoy using this jig. It works great. I'd highly recommend this item to anyone wanting to cut thin strips accurately.

Great idea and works well. I have a little trouble getting it tighten in my table slot, but that might be an issue with my saw.REMEMBER THOUGH (unlike myself); Trim the left edge of the board first, to make it parallel to the fence, before cutting your first strip. Otherwise, the first strip could be junk, or it could even jam against the jig during the cut.

This is a great product. I dont understand how Rockler can sell it at such a low price. Quality construction, easy to use. I use it to cut strips from 1/8&quot; to 1/4&quot; for inlays --- works great.

Simple, very well constructed jig. My first use was to cut 1/4&quot; strips for laminating turning stock. It worked well. Use a zero clearence insert on your saw to prevent cut stock from binding. Don't push the stock too tightly against the bearing wheel when you move your fence. The metal wheel can dent softwood.

Very easy to use. Most recently used to dimension keys for keyed miter joint. I used calipers to transfer the slot size on my corners to the table saw/jig. Got it on the first try! The bearing can be annoying during set up, but I was glad it was there when making my cuts. I really like that the jig holds position of thin strip but allows you to slide the jig back away from the blade and locks down without losing its setting. Well thought out.

This jig is indispensable to me. I like it so much I am ordering a second one as my table saw and band saw are not collocated and I got tired of having to go fetch it. Setting this up so the thin strip is on the outside of the blade and not wedged up against the fence and moving the stock and fence each time to register with the wheel on this jig I get totally repeatable cuts. It says table saw but it is even better on the bandsaw for cutting very thin strips to use for inlay. Just a great tool.

Bought one after losing the tip of my left index finger when a push stick slipped while sawing the last thin strip for a project. Now have one in my shop in NY and one for the shop in Florida.Bill Kennedy, Mumford, NY.

Cut strips on the outside (left) of the blade!!If you ever watch peoples' favorite ways to make thin rips with a table saw on YouTube and wince then they make ultra dangerous cuts between the blade and the fence you'll know why this jig should always be preferred. A friend cut his finger up to the first knuckle trying a cut between the blade and the fence. Sewed it up, but no more bending that finger. I can make 1/16 ths of an inch strips with little danger by cutting to the left of the blade. The jig's bearing quide helps roll and guide the piece without a feather board to make consistent cuts. Positive lock slots on 1/16 in spacing means quick setups. I made a similar, but continuous sliding jig earlier out of wood that it allows for even thinner cuts, but rarely use it because it takes much longer to set up.

I use this on both my bandsaw and table saw and get excellent results that I have been unable to get consistently using other methods. The position of the jig determines the thickness of the cut and you move the fence each time and get perfectly equal cuts. I save a sample to use as a setup guide to reproduce the exact width cut time after time with no measuring, test cuts, or frustration. You can't go wrong with this jig it is not a gimmick like some jigs you get suckered into getting, this is the real deal it works better than you could hope for. I don't ask it to do anything but give me perfectly even strips for edge banding and it does this beautifully. Used on the bandsaw with the roller placed about 1/2 inch before the blade you get perfectly even cuts end to end every time.

Yes, there are lots of options for homemade jigs, but this is one that is just worth paying for. I have used it so many times to make edge banding, edging, slats for coops, craft supplies, etc. It just works, time and again. I've yet to use the marking gauges as they don't seem to be that intuitive or user friendly but I'm sure I'm overlooking some obvious use cases.

I use the Thin Rip jig to cut .060" to .070" thick by 50" long walnut strips for custom basketry staves and have variation of .001" to .005" in thickness over the length. I use this tool weekly. This jig works great and enhances my level of comfort with additional safety over previous methods of thin strip cutting on the table saw or bandsaw. It provides consistent thin strips with great finish. The pivot bearing works great to keep consistent pressure against the workpiece. Pros: Easy to use , handle and setup. Safety enhancement over conventional thin strip cutting. Cuts repeatable strips. Cons: The scale could be enhanced to provide better measurement reference for fine adjustment into the thousandths of an inch over the current 1/32" scale. The jig would also be enhanced with a better method of hanging or storing by the addition of a hole in the base of the jig. I would definitely purchase this jig again if this one ever fails.

A nice store-bought version of a jig I saw in a woodworking magazine a few years back. Made of high quality materials, my only complaint is there is no way to store the jig. I would prefer some hanging holes. Similarly, an indexing feature would be nice in order to zero the jig to each tablesaw. However, the jig is perfectly usable without. A good buy, I have used it to rip edge banding for plywood panels with consistent, repeatable results. I would recommend this jig to a friend.

This is a GREAT tool and well worth the modest cost. I'm always needing to cut thin shims, trim strips, etc., and am faced with either cutting them between blade and fence, or calculating each fence offset, a pain with a thin-kerf blade, which is what I want to use for making thin strips. This jig really solves that problem, and it's simple and sturdy. The fit is a little too tight between the phenolic pieces, and the miter bar is too snug on my table, but those problems are fixable with a little wax and sandpaper. Only reason I withhold the 5th star is that it would be even better if it had a zeroable numeric scale. That would be at some sacrifice of simplicity and economy, but would put it over the top into the &quot;perfect tool&quot; category. For now I'll make a set of hardwood feeler gauges (using this jig, of course), in 1/32&quot; increments. Thanks, Rockler!

Based on the reviews and answers to a question I asked, I bought this and, once I received it, immediately put it to use. It is a well made jig and it does allow you to make repeated cuts of the same width time after time. However the thinnest piece I can cut is approximately 1/4 inch which is not what I had hoped for. The problem lies in the distance from the miter gauge to the saw blade on my saw. I have a Bosch 4100 and with the jig at full extension I can't get a cut of less than 1/4 inch. I intend to keep it as I can use it for other cuts but it does not produce the cuts I am looking for. Be sure to check your saw for this critical dimension if you desire 1/8 " cuts.

For thin rips and certain other applications this would be a fantastic jig. However, I was ripping a cove that had only an 1/8&quot; lip on the outside. The bearing on the nose of the jig that you butt up against the blade to take your measurement actually sits off the table by approx. 3/16&quot;, so I wasn't able to get an accurate measurement without lifting the piece I was trying to cut off the table. It's hard to visualize what I'm talking about, so I drew a picture. Other than this one drawback, it's a great product.

I couldn't figure out how to use the measuring scale..just cut a scrap to see where it is set. Solid Rockler construction, but relies on friction, so there is still a little fidgeting involved. I think you should buy it because it will save you some time setting up repetitive cuts, it's not that expensive, and if you built one yourself it would cost you a lot more in your valuable time that you should be using to make sawdust and progressively smaller kindling.

The first step in the instructions says to adjust the jig so that the bearing contacts the left side of the saw teeth. When the jig if fully extended, the bearing does not reach the saw tooth. The thinnest strip that I can rip with my saw is 1/8&quot;. Rockler needs to specify the maximum distance between the miter slot and the blade.

I did not find the scale very useful but it gives a rough estimate. I made one piece by trial and error and used that setting for several thin strips that I needed. I do like the ball bearing wheel. I had some difficultly moving my fence exactly to the guide after each cut. This takes a little practice. Overall, this is a much better way to cut thin strips because the strip is not caught between the blade and the fence.

Problem if trying to rip long boards but generally pretty good item. Requires moving the fence for each cut. Outside of the possibility of binding and kickback, I prefer ripping using the blade to fence method. A good featherboard and sacrificial push stick makes for faster work in my opinion. Good product though. Leave it to Rockler to come up with another good one.

This jig works good but I have to use it with the rip fence moved over to the left side of my blade. When I tried it with my rip fence on the right side of the blade and the jig in the left miter slot, it would not come close enough to the blade in the maximum extended position to rip narrow strips.It feels very awkward using it in the right side miter slot.

Just received the Thin Rip Jig. Looks great - solid construction and quality materials. BUT, it will not work with my saw - a Jet Model JWSS-10CS. The details for the jig state: &quot;Adjusts from 1-3/8&quot; away from your miter track to 5-11/16&quot; away from your miter track, enough for the thinnest rips on any table saw.&quot; The distance from my miter guage slot to the saw blade is 7 inches, so the jig will not reach the blade. Therefore, the thinnest strip I could cut would be about 1 5/16&quot; thick. Not very thin. Therefore, this is a great product, but does not work on ANY table saw.

I use it on a DeWalt contractor saw. As with other reviews, I found that it doesn't stay in position in the miter gauge slot unless you really crank down on the handle. Even then, when you move the fence over, you should not push the work up to the bearing hard or it binds and the jig comes loose and/or you get a kick-back. Just barely kiss the bearing with the board. This is hard to do with a long board. It also defeats the purpose because you are visually lining the board up with the edge of the bearing, rather than operating by feel.An alternate way to do these stripping cuts is simply to mark a line on the table saw top where the outside of the board goes. Use a sharp pencil. Just as with the jigs, move the fence until your board lines up with the mark. No fabricating jigs, no expense, and it works just as well.

I found I was not able to get consistently accurate results. The wood tends to bind on the bearing and I'm constantly having to back it off the bearing so it won't bind, which causes variations in the thicknesses of my thin strips.I believe the bearing may be to small. This one needs redesigning. I'm a professional woodworking of 25 years and have made thin strip jigs that work much better than this one.

I experience more kick back problems in using this product in one day, that I have in a month. I found that it was short to the blade on my Bosch 4100. To work successful, you still have to back off either the fence or the adjuster in order not to get kickback, especially if you are doing thin stips over 1 inch high.

Ripping narrow stock up against the fence is not only not advised,, but very dangerous as well. This jig is an incredible tool, easy to use and very well-made. It is exactly what I needed it to do which was make very narrow repeat cuts, many of which were a 16th of an inch. Even if you only make narrow cuts on occasion, you won't be sorry for getting this.

This is a great jig. Works exactly as described. Well constructed and worth the price. I used it to cut 1/4&quot; strips for some poker chip trays and it worked like a dream with less than 1/64&quot; variance if any between the pieces. Get this jig!

I purchased this in order to rip thin stock for making bridges & trestles for my model railroad, only one problem, my Craftsman table saw has a 5/8&quot; miter slot and the jig wouldn't fit, so, after a little time at the grinding wheel and taking even amounts off both sides it fit fine and works great! I've been able to rip small stock down to 3/32&quot; so far and that's as small as I want to go. Makes ripping easy and a lot safer with everything to the right of the blade.

As always, the new Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig work's as good as it gets. My wife likes it, because I will keep all my fingers for future thin cuts. My use is for inlay work on jewlery box's and other fine box's. Keep up the good work as always, I am a customer for life.

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Our price is lower than the manufacturer's "minimum advertised price." As a result, we cannot show you the price in catalog or the product page.

You have no obligation to purchase the product once you know the price. You can simply remove the item from your cart.

What People are Saying:

I have been using Rockler for years, your products are always the best that can be purchased and your prices are very reasonable. Ann you have always done your best to make me feel as though I was your very best customer. Thank you for great service."

- Daniel F.

What People are Saying:

I have been using Rockler for years, your products are always the best that can be purchased and your prices are very reasonable. Ann you have always done your best to make me feel as though I was your very best customer. Thank you for great service."