I had a heater element go bad on my artisian spa, 240 volt, replaced the heater and bled the system, no i have a clicking noise constantly coming from the circuit board, trying to pin-point what would cause this a far as i can tell the flow siwtch seems to be working, tub is approx 2 years old

we need to find out what relay is kicking on & off you say the flow switch seems to be working.... any error codes on the topside control??we need to find out what relay is kicking on & off you say the flow switch seems to be working.... any error codes on the topside control??

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need more info does whole thing trip off sounds like shorted heater element if you are able to disconnect heater leads and thing stays on bad heater be careful its either 110 volts or 220 volts if your not familiar with this call a professional

If your top element is bad the the lower element will never turn on be cause the top element completes the 240 circuit. It is like a resister in a circuit. Make sure top element measures out at 13 ohms.

Most times if it is the smaller limit mounted on the heater element you have a blocked vent. It still runs so the fuse is not blown and the door switch is fine. Make sure you have 240 going into the machine. The motor is 120 volts but the heater is a 240 volt component. So if one side of the braker is bad you won't have any heat.

The elements never run at the same time, it would take to much energy for a standard residential heater. Instead, they rotate powering up back and forth depending on the hot water demand. If you getting 208 to 240 volts on the top element and nothing is happening, the top element is bad and needs to be replaced. If you can swing 30 bucks, replace both elements and both thermostats at the same time. This way you know that everything is new. Check out this genericwater-heaterwiring schematic.

un hook the incoming power lines, turn the breaker back on, and carefully measure power between the 2 hot wires, not the ground. You must have 220 to 240 volts between these 2 wires, if you dont either the breaker is bad, or the wire is broken somewhere. If you have 240 volts to the heater, with the power OFF unhook the wires from both elements and use an ohm meter to test the resistance on the elements, both should be around 30 ohms and about the same, if not one is bad. Test across the elements after re connecting them and turning the power on you must have 240 volts across the elements when they are on, if you have only 120 or 0 then the trouble is the breaker or the wire.

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.