Ok - I know this has to e easier then I am making it.
I am trying to pull the steering wheeel and steering column out of my 37 Coupe - I have removed the 1 inch nut on the wheel the 2 bolts that hold the colun to the dash and the bolt that holds the clamp around the steering box - but it still seems to be held in place - How does the steering wheel get removed from the column, then how Do I remove the cloumn?

Use a tool called a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. To remove the column ...you have to disconnect the steering shaft where the coulmn shaft connects to the shaft going to the steering sector. ...it will either be under the floorboard or on the other side of the lower part of the firewall. It will probably disconnect at a u-joint. Is this the original 37 column or a more modern one that somebody has installed?

Use a tool called a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. To remove the column ...you have to disconnect the steering shaft where the coulmn shaft connects to the shaft going to the steering sector. ...it will either be under the floorboard or on the other side of the lower part of the firewall. It will probably disconnect at a u-joint. Is this the original 37 column or a more modern one that somebody has installed?

This is an original 37 set up - THe steering wheel does not Have the 2 or 3 bolt holes to use the steering wheel puller - I will need to form a bracket to go behind the wheel to pull

There does not appear to be a universal - Just a cover that goes over the steering shaft right down to the steering box - It appears to be 1 piece right to the worm gear in the box

This is an original 37 set up - THe steering wheel does not Have the 2 or 3 bolt holes to use the steering wheel puller - I will need to form a bracket to go behind the wheel to pull

There does not appear to be a universal - Just a cover that goes over the steering shaft right down to the steering box - It appears to be 1 piece right to the worm gear in the box

Clark

The steering shaft is attached to the worm gear. The complete steering box must be unbolted from the frame and the dash support to be removed.

To remove the steering wheel. It is held on by the nut to a tapered section at the end of the shaft. There is also a woodruff key to prevent the wheel from spinning on the shaft. Loosen the steering wheel nut until the outer surface of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded section of the steering shaft. Use a piece of brass or aluminum as a punch on the top of the steering shaft nut and give a quick solid hit to the punch with a hammer. This will "shock" the wheel loose from the taper of the shaft. No puller is required. Some upward pressure can be applied with your knees under the steering wheel as you strike the punch to the end of the steering shaft. After the wheel is loose, remove the nut and the wheel will come right off. Be sure to use the woodruff key when installing the wheel back.

The steering shaft is attached to the worm gear. The complete steering box must be unbolted from the frame and the dash support to be removed.

To remove the steering wheel. It is held on by the nut to a tapered section at the end of the shaft. There is also a woodruff key to prevent the wheel from spinning on the shaft. Loosen the steering wheel nut until the outer surface of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded section of the steering shaft. Use a piece of brass or aluminum as a punch on the top of the steering shaft nut and give a quick solid hit to the punch with a hammer. This will "shock" the wheel loose from the taper of the shaft. No puller is required. Some upward pressure can be applied with your knees under the steering wheel as you strike the punch to the end of the steering shaft. After the wheel is loose, remove the nut and the wheel will come right off. Be sure to use the woodruff key when installing the wheel back.

Thanks - I had come to the conclusion that the steering rod was all 1 piece - and I am not yet ready to pull the box out so I will work around the steering wheel for a few more weeks - THanks for the reco on removing the wheel

sorry can't help you but i am doing a 37 4dr sedan....so keep us posted...what are you doing for the drive train? bob

I am still in the planning stages for the drive train - will probably get the body back in shape before I make a firm commitment - but I am leaning to keeping the flathead, adding a set of Offy Heads and a set of trip's, 5 speed tranny, Mustang II IFS with Coil overs and a corvette IRS.

I am planning this as a 5 year project - so I am sure things will change as it matures

I am still in the planning stages for the drive train - will probably get the body back in shape before I make a firm commitment - but I am leaning to keeping the flathead, adding a set of Offy Heads and a set of trip's, 5 speed tranny, Mustang II IFS with Coil overs and a corvette IRS.

I am planning this as a 5 year project - so I am sure things will change as it matures

Clark

i will be keeping a flat head also and adding the 5 spd tranny...i will be adding the 39 hydraulic brakes and keeping the old wheels....but will lower the front with a dropped front axle.....keep us posted how you are making out,its more fun when someone else is doing a similar project....., i am also working on the body issues and you see what i am doing over in the body/ exterior section i have a post called something like "getting serious on the 37" check it out

i will be keeping a flat head also and adding the 5 spd tranny...i will be adding the 39 hydraulic brakes and keeping the old wheels....but will lower the front with a dropped front axle.....keep us posted how you are making out,its more fun when someone else is doing a similar project....., i am also working on the body issues and you see what i am doing over in the body/ exterior section i have a post called something like "getting serious on the 37" check it out

Great - It will be nice to follow a similar project - Let me know what Bell-Housing / Tranny combo you intend to use. My 37 had already been converted to hyd brakes - but I intend to replace these with Disc Brakes all around - If you need anything off mine, let me know

You can use your 37 drums if you are converting to hydraulics. All you need are a set of 39-41 backing plates. New cylinders, springs, hoses, and relined shoes and you are stopping. New drums should be available from Joblot Automotive in Quenns LI NY.

Frisco's recommendation is the standard method for pulling the wheels on the old rigs with solid steering shafts. The key is the pressure against the back side of the wheel with your knees and the quick square rap with the hammer.

NOTE!!! you do not want to use this method on late model steering columns as you will collapse the column most of the time. A wheel puller has to be used for these.

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