High Life Decoded: Tequila and Mezcal

Everyone’s got a gut reaction when it comes to tequila, and often it’s not such a positive one. For some, the word alone evokes memories of cheap Cuervo shots and table salt during a college trip to Cancun (or a basement in Jersey—take your pick). Others love a good margarita with their chips and guac, but haven’t ventured very far from there in the world of agave-based spirits.

But for those in the craft-cocktail scene, tequila has been one of the breakout spirits of recent years, shedding its negative image and finding its way into drinks that go well beyond the standard-issue marg. For those who take the plunge, there’s a whole world of awesome spirits and cocktails to explore.

Like whiskey, tequila has layers. In fact, tequila is merely a sub-genre of other agave-based spirits, including smoky mezcals. (We know, we know—you’ve just started hacking into the world of blanco, reposado, and añejo, and now we’re asking you to buy into mezcal). To cut through the bottom-shelf haze and figure out how to order like a pro this Cinco de Mayo, we hit up three NYC drink-slingers to school us to the game. Here’s what they had to say.

THE EXPERTS

Chrissy Hassel. Assistant General Manager and Beverage Director of West Village Mexican restaurant El Toro Blanco.

Mat Resler.Beverage Director and bartender at Empellon Tacqueria, fresh off a pre-Cinco de Mayo trip to Mexico.

Philip Ward. Proprietor and Beverage Director at Mayahuel, a tequila-and mezcal-driven cocktail bar in the East Village.

Everyone's got a gut reaction when it comes to tequila, and often it's not such a positive one. For some, the word alone evokes memories of cheap Cuervo shots and table salt during a college trip to Cancun (or a basement in Jersey—take your pick). Others love a good margarita with their chips and guac, but haven't ventured very far from there in the world of agave-based spirits.
But for those in the craft-cocktail scene, tequila has been one of the breakout spirits of recent years, shedding its negative image and finding its way into drinks that go well beyond the standard-issue marg. For those who take the plunge, there's a whole world of awesome spirits and cocktails to explore.
Like whiskey, tequila has layers. In fact, tequila is merely a sub-genre of other agave-based spirits, including smoky mezcals. (We know, we know—you’ve just started hacking into the world of blanco, reposado, and añejo, and now we’re asking you to buy into mezcal). To cut through the bottom-shelf haze and figure out how to order like a pro this Cinco de Mayo, we hit up three NYC drink-slingers to school us to the game. Here's what they had to say.
THE EXPERTSChrissy Hassel. Assistant General Manager and Beverage Director of West Village Mexican restaurant El Toro Blanco.
Mat Resler.Beverage Director and bartender at Empellon Tacqueria, fresh off a pre-Cinco de Mayo trip to Mexico.
Philip Ward. Proprietor and Beverage Director at Mayahuel, a tequila-and mezcal-driven cocktail bar in the East Village.

About half what you’ll find on shelves is not actually tequila.

Hassel says: "The first step when you’re buying tequila is to make sure it’s pure, 100-percent agave. Avoid mixtos, which are only required by law to have at least 51-percent agave; the rest is a bunch of crap you don’t want, like corn syrup and corn starch. That is what’ll give you that wicked hangover. Bottom line: If it’s not 100-percent blue agave, don't consider it."

All tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequilas.

There are three factors that can help you determine whether a spirit is tequila or whether it’s a different type of mezcal: Where it comes from, what it’s made of, and how it's produced.
Ward says: "Think of what cognac is to brandy: It is a specific type of brandy made only in a certain region of France. Tequila is specific type of mezcal produced in only five states within Mexico—Jalisco, Michoacan, Guanajuato, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas—and made exclusively with blue weber agave. Mezcal can be made with any agave and in any region of Mexico (it is produced in about 28 of the 32 states), though the majority comes from Oaxaca. But distillation also comes into play."
Resler says: "Tequila is fermented and distilled using more conventional methods: Mechanical shredders and extractors and autoclaves, which are like giant pressure cookers—a more efficient form of distillation. Making mezcal is a more old fashioned, traditional [process]: Usually a horse or a donkey is walked in a circle to pull a giant stone wheel that crushes the cooked agave."

What about blanco vs. reposado vs. añejo tequila?

First things first: All mezcal is clear when it is un-aged, or blanco. Reposados are aged from two to 12 months, and añejos are aged one to three years.
Resler: "If you’re looking for the truest expression of agave, start out with blancos—these are what distillers drink when they get together to measure their manhood. If the taste of tequila is a bit harsh for you, venture into the realm of reposados and añejos; wood-aging softens some of that edge. Depending on the wood used, you can get some pretty awesome flavors. American oak tends to create notes of vanilla and toffee, whereas French oak gives the spirit a more spiced, oak-y flavor."
Hassel: "Blancos are fantastic in cocktails because the agave flavor is prominent; reposados, though they can be used well in cocktails, are typically best served on a big ol’ rock. When it comes to añejos, keep in mind that they were styled to compete with Scotch, bourbon, and whisky. Mixing it in a cocktail does it a bit of a disservice because you lose many of the nuances in its flavor."

What gives mezcal its smoky taste?

Hassler: "Mezcal gets its smoky quality from roasting the piñas—or, the heart of the agave plant, where all the sugar and the juice lies. The piñas are transferred to concave ovens, often underground, where they are roasted for one-to-three days or sometimes even up to several weeks."

Similar to Scotch, there are highland and lowland tequilas and mezcals.

Depending on where the agave is grown, the spirit will have a different flavor profile. Highland agave tends to have more floral and fruity notes, whereas lowland agave tends to be more vegetal and briny, with notes of green pepper.
Resler: "Head to your local bar and ask for a recommendation. I can’t tell you how many people have left our restaurant and hit up their local store to buy a bottle. The key is to figure out what you like in a spirit. Mezcal has one of the largest variances in expressions and flavors, each one being unlike the last… I honestly believe there is something for everyone. Just stay away from Monte Alban—it is the Cuervo Especial of Mezcal—and Zignum mezcal. That one is another story for another time..."

Ditch the margarita mix.

Resler says: "Avoid any and all commercial premixes. They taste and smell like cleaning product and most have enough sugar content in them to give a horse diabetes. Even the ones marketed to the 'skinny' clientele can be better made at home for less cost. The key to a killer margarita is fresh lime juice and choosing quality tequila that will shine through the cocktail."
Ward says: "Bad ingredients should be avoided at all costs for agave-based spirits, just like every other spirit. The secret to a margarita is simplicity: Good blanco and Triple Sec and fresh lime. Nothing else (well, salt and ice if you want those)."

Tequila doesn’t just go well with Mexican food.

Hassel says: "I love tequila because it has many sides to it—it can fit into nearly any meal. Sure, a margarita is great with tacos and guac, but a solid añejo, served neat, goes fantastic with dessert. Añejos are aged in oak that was previously used to age other spirits, like bourbon; the result is notes like vanilla, chocolate, and cinnamon. Riazul, for instance, makes its añejo with cognac barrel, which gives it this rich, velvety chocolate flavor."
Try that with vanilla ice cream!

Agave myths, debunked

Myth: Agave distillates make you crazy.
True and false.
Resler says: "It is true that people drinking agave receive a different 'high' than other spirits—agave is the only spirit that is actually a stimulant, all others are depressants. So, yes, it is true you are 'higher' than you normally would be, but the agave is the placebo; the crazy is all you.
That being said, mezcal can be an aggressive spirit for people not familiar with it. Most is distilled at a higher proof so be cautious of that fact. If the thought of knocking back a tipple that ranges from 90- to 104-proof frightens you, then look for one that has been tempered down a little."
Myth: Mezcal is the one with the worm in the bottle.Ward says: "False. Worms were no more than a marketing ploy which unfortunately remains to this day. There should be nothing floating in mezcal or tequila, for starters…"
Myth: Agave distillates will give you wicked hangovers.Resler: "For the most part this is untrue, however, too much of anything will wreak havoc on you the following day. Generally, those that have experienced horrible mornings following agave consumption were drinking mixtos. Drinking 100-percent agave is one of the purest forms of distillates. Most people who have had a 'bad experience' with agave can attribute it to forcing that last shot of tequila down to cap off the night after drinking wine and other spirits. Mixing is bad, mmkay…"

What to buy

Hassel: "My two favorites at the moment are Ocho, a single-estate tequila that demonstrates 'terroir' much like a single-estate wine; and 123, a certified USDA organic tequila that takes great care in everything from production to its packaging."
Ward: "In the U.S., I believe Del Maguey Mezcal is the finest available. The Vida works great in drinks for the price point. As for tequilas, some bottles I reach for the most: El Tesoro, Siete Leguas, Siembre Azul, Pueblo Viejo, and Ocho."
Resler: "I look for the truest expression of the plant; nothing compares to a well-made blanco. Pueblo Viejo is a great value tequila and works equally as well in cocktails. For sipping, Fortaleza is a ridiculous blanco with creamy agave notes and minerality. As far as mezcal goes, I love working with Fidencio Clasico. It has all of the characteristics you’d expect in a quality mezcal: Earth, citrus, and smoke. It can be sipped alone or added to an array of cocktails, and it is pretty inexpensive to boot!"

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