They are a small bookshelf type speaker, even have a hole on the back to hang them on a wall. They say Type 22 RH 491 made in Holland the mid/woofer is AD7065/W8 It is a paper cone with a rubber surround.

I thought they felt quite heavy for the size of speaker so took a chance and got them that I might try a 1st time build and see if the DIY bug will infect me.

Thanks in advance

PS.I will attach a couple photos from my old cell phone.(sorry about quality)

Remember being a newbie I am learning about things like ideal cabinet volume, dampening materials etc. My goal is DIY and not just using something off the shelf but to modify and have the enjoyment of building something myself.

So with that in mind. Any ideas then if I keep them as 2-ways(if the drivers aren't suitable for FR or OB) on a new cabinetry designs(something more interesting visually and sonically equal to or an improvement on the present boxes)? This way I can at least get my hands wet in building speakers and learning from my mistakes in an economical way.

Second, is there a downloadable program that you guys recommend for taking measurements of your projects sonic specs by using a good mic and recording playback through your speakers?

Last, since I posted this in fullrange is there a way it should/can be shifted to the proper forum if the best suggestions are to keep using these drivers in a 2-way config?

__________________Don't shed a tear for me I stand alone. This path of destiny is all my own. Once in the hands of fate there is no choice. An echo on the wind you'll hear my voice...

That french page looks like a " spreadsheet" and it's very long indeed.
All of that data are derived from the data taken by measuring the driver alone, which needs a set like sweep generator for finding the Fs, but with Pcs it's much easier, and with a Dayton DATS even more.
So from the data reported on the back you have a 70 Hz box which usually means the F3 point...also 20 kHz will predictably be played at -3 dB

I see that the F3 point is 55 Hz ! Which is the same as in the tables shown in that site.
Going bigger 8-12 l can lower the resonant frequency and using a port adds an extra octave. Going much bigger, also...
I usually design the box around the woofer leaving the tweeter external, which can be put even below the woofer, and usually in axys.
A quick ear test if the tweeter performs satisfactorily and an eye on the parts of the crossover, or viceversa

The Q of 0.3 and a Fr of 41 Hz strongly suggest a bass reflex box. The various tunings of a bass reflex box give a box volume of 7-10 L. With the serial resisistance of the coils a box a bit larger. Philips paper cone woofers are generally good with no nasty peaks in response that need a complex crossover. The tweeter is not bad either, the problem with that one is that it is very easy to mount them wrong and get bad resultsWWDT
So flush mount is the thing you need one way or the other.
I would keep the crossover values but replace the electrolytic caps with the same values using cheap plastic film caps from Parts-Express or a similar vendor. I am sceptical about those fancy expensive caps in general and especially in the context of a budget project.