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Driving across the Nullarbor - Part Two: South Australia

Having
already spent a day and a half driving, somewhat incredibly, I was still in
Western Australia. Driving across the Nullarbor (and even just out of WA, it
seems) is no mean feat. The distances involved are not to be underestimated. Neither
is the amount of wildlife propagating the popular Australian myth that all the
animals are out to get you.

This
post details the second day of the two-day journey across the Nullarbor. To
read about Day One click here. Otherwise, keep reading for tales of oysters, whales, wombats and sand dunes!

Leaving
Eucla and WA

Eucla
is only just within WA; it is 12km from the state border with South Australia.
It is probably about as far from its state capital as it is possible to be. In
fact it is closer to SA’s capital Adelaide, than Perth, WA!

Border
Village

It
didn’t take long to reach Border Village. Somewhat strangely, the area
between Border Village and Ceduna seems to be a bit of a no man’s land, in
terms of interstate quarantine rules. Travellers heading west are questioned
and/or inspected by quarantine officers at the border, but travelling east nobody is interested in checking for illicit fruit and vegetables
until you reach Ceduna. Clearly anything goes on the Nullarbor!

Consequentially
travellers heading east are welcomed into South Australia by Rooey II, the
large kangaroo outside Border Village Roadhouse and fuel station, and not by
chaps asking if you are carrying a fridge. Despite the name, Border Village is
simply a roadhouse and fuel station by the border. Don't get excited; there is no village.

Rooey II at Border Village, South Australia

Bunda
Cliffs lookouts

The
first sights in South Australia were arguably the most impressive. There are
four sign-posted lookouts after Border Village, each offering spectacular views
over the dramatic Bunda Cliffs as they drop about 100m into the Great Southern
Ocean. The Nullarbor Plain is a limestone plateau that was once under sea. The
view at each lookout is different so it is definitely worth a quick stop at
each lookout as you pass.

Treeless
Plain

Having
left Border Village, you quickly come onto the Treeless Plain, along which none
of the desert scrub grows more than about half a metre off the ground. You can
see a long way in each direction, across miles of what looks like empty bush,
which is clearly a deception. This is one place where you will see the well-known massive warning signs about camels,
wombats and kangaroos.

Wildlife warning sign on the Nullarbor, SA, Australia

Nullarbor

The
Nullarbor Roadhouse was a welcome sight as I was starting to get low on fuel
(they also have a shop and offer accommodation). The other publicly accessible
Murrawijinie cave is around 10km drive north of the Nullarbor Roadhouse. Around
90km further north is the now ghost town of Cook. Cook is on the
Transcontinental Railway and on the longest stretch of straight railway line in
the world (478km).

Whales
at the Head of Bight

Shortly
after leaving the Nullarbor Roadhouse, you come to the Head of the Bight, which
is the large northernmost bay on the Great Australian Bight. Huge numbers of
whales visit each year in July to give birth and they can be seen frolicking in
the water with their calves until around September. There wasn’t a hint of a
whale when I was there (February) but it was still lovely to walk along the
cliff edges on the viewing platforms taking in the views. The entry fee is $7,
which is about as inexpensive as whale watching comes, if you’re there at the
right time of year!

The Great Australian Bight, South Australia

Fowlers
Bay

Past
Nundroo a detour takes you to Fowlers Bay. The sleepy little settlement
sits between some enormous sand dunes and the ocean. There is a jetty if you
fancy another ocean stroll, or you can burn some energy scrabbling up a sand
dune. Two gravel roads link Fowlers Bay to the highway. The western
road surface seemed in better nick than the eastern road which was heavily corrugated.

Sand dune at Fowlers Bay, Nullarbor, SA, Australia

Scotdesco
and big wombats

About
190km east of Nundroo, and 25km before reaching Penong, I happened upon
Scotdesco. Scotdesco (Tjilkaba) is a small Aboriginal community that welcomes
visitors, who can learn about the area from the Aboriginal perspective.
Visitors can check out the art workshop, meet local artists and admire the big
wombat, in the heart of wombat country. Check out the little wombats on top of
the gateposts too, cute!

Big Wombat, Scotdesco, Nullarbor, SA, Australia

Oysters
at Ceduna

I arrived at Ceduna at what I thought was late afternoon, but what the locals
(2.5 hours ahead) considered early evening. Following a quarantine
inspection, I spotted the Oyster Shack just a few hundred metres past the
border. I'm not an oyster fan but if you are get there before the border closes at 19:30!

Dinner and a spectacular sunset later, I had crossed the
Nullarbor!

Sunset at Ceduna, SA, Australia, Nullarbor

Timings

The first day, from Norseman to Eucla, took roughly seven hours of driving (highway
driving, mostly at 110km/h) plus a bit of time to eat along the way. Day two
took roughly five and a half hours (again, highway driving). It would be
possible to do the whole drive in one day, but it would be essential to leave
Norseman early, say around 5am, as judging by the amount of roadkill,
especially at the western end of the Nullarbor, the wildlife poses a
significant risk to traffic (and, sadly, to itself).

However,
crossing the Nullarbor in a single day leaves no time to enjoy the sights and
truly experience the Nullarbor. I’d recommend allowing two – three days to
drive across at your own pace and allow time to explore along the way. Despite
seeming desolate and empty, there is a surprising amount of things to see along
the Nullarbor!

Have
you crossed the Nullarbor? If so, are there any other sights you’d recommend
people take in along the journey? Please share them in the comments below.