I recently bought the Storm FF from Helipal, and tried it a few times before understanding that the unit will be a lot safer to fly with the Naza unit installed.

My friend «Bikenewby» had already installed the Naza and the GPS unit, and he helped me a lot getting everything right. Thanks to him, I got everything up and running fairly easy.
If you want to see his videos of his modified Storm FF with Gimbal, FPV and Naza unit please visit his Youtube channel. He has some really great aerial videos from his multirotors

3. Cut off the zip ties holding the red and white LED-lights on each arm, and disconnect them in both hends (Gyro board/Power distribution board and brushless motors).

As you see on this picture the cables from the brushless motors are short, so the ESC’s will be places out on the arms, rather than inside the center platforms on the drone.

4. Cut off the wire going from the led strip to the ESC (it shares power with the ESC and motor). Repeat step for all 4 LED strips. (Make a note which is red and which is white so you know where to mount them later.

The next step involves connecting the ESC and motors to the power distribution board.
It can be done in two ways:

A) Reusing the existing JST plugB)Use a better extender cable and solder directly to the power distribution board (Recommended)

On my setup I reused the existing JST plugs on the power distribution board.
My friend explained to me that this is NOT the ideal solution.

The amperage rating on these JST plugs is only around 7-8 amp. Since we are using new ESC's it is better to solder the ESC directly on to the power dist. board.

If you keep to the stock 10A ESC's it will not matter.

5. Solder the 2 cables going from the new 30A ESC’s with the cable you cut off from the old ESC’s and the JST plug or solder extender cables directly to the power distribution board. Use lighter heating gun and tube to isolate the wires.

6. Solder the V-SEN module to the Power distribution board as shown.

You have now finished all the soldering. The 4 ESC with the cables will look like this (If you chose A: JST connector alternative).

7. Measure the exact dimensions of the stock gyroboard and add some milllimetres for screw holes.

8. Use a (extremely) sharp carpet knife or a small but accurate saw and a ruler to cut out the plate in which you will place the Naza Gyro on top of (be careful so you don’t cut yourself).

Here you can see size comparison of my lexan plate and the stock gyroboard:

9. Use a Hex screwdriver to mount the Lexan plate over the power distribution board.

10. Connect the Cables from all ESC’s to the JST female plug on the power distribution board (If you chose A: JST connector alternative)

11. Use the 3M double sided tape to mount the Naza M unit on top of the lexan plate.
IMPORTANT!!! Make sure the connections for the ESC’s (M1, M2, M3, M4, M5,M6,F1,F2) point to the nose of your quadcopter.

12. Connect all the cables to the Naza unit, devention receiver, V-SEN and GPS antenna.

First of all, I wanted to get a clear camera view without propellers obstructing the view.
Placing the camera in the center underneath the drone makes the yellow balls visible on the edges of the camera views.
Therefore I made a small plastic (lexan) platform and mounted the jello killer base mount from Helipal to kill all jello.
This works great.

Ok... Regarding the Devo 7/Naza setup, there are several ways to do so. One way is to follow Helipal instruction guide to use the FMD switch for changing Naza control mode (GPS Atti Mode <-> Atti Mode <-> Manual Mode) and the MIX switch for IOC (Home Lock <-> Course Lock <-> Off). However, since this config make use of the AUX2 channel as output to Naza "U" port (control mode switch), you cannot make use of the AUX2 rotary switch for other purpose (only one rotary switch in Devo7). I need to use this switch to either for remote gain adjustment (during setup) Or for controlling Gimbal Pitch (tilt camera up/down). So, my setup is a little different. The details is as per below.

On my setup, I created 2 models in Devo 7:
- 1st model is used for normal flying (control switch set to GPS Atti Mode <-> Atti Mode <-> Failsafe since I don't actually fly manual mode).
- 2nd model is used for Compass Calibration (control switch set to GPS Atti Mode <-> Atti Mode <-> Manual since compass calibration can be activated only when flipping between GPS mode and Manual mode for 6 to 10 times), or in some case I want to try the manual mode (I rarely did so...)

The reason for flying with the 1st mode above is that I would like an ability to switch to FailSafe mode for auto-landing or RTH sometimes and also would like to be able to switch back to GPS or Atti mode in case Naza seems to behave different from expected. I know that it is also workable to switch off the Devo 7 to activate the Naza's failsafe. However, I don't want to take risk turning off Tx since Devo7 cannot be turn on if the throttle stick is not on the lowest position. Also, leaving stick at lowest position for a little too long will make Naza to disarm the motor and will probably end up with a crash...

Anyway, my tx setup is as per below. I use the MIX switch to change the Naza Control Mode (GPS <-> Atti <-> Fail Safe), the FMD switch for IOC, and the AUX2 for controlling Gimbal Pitch (and in some case remote gain adjustment). I also set the Throttle Hold mode for setting throttle stick to 50% so that I can control Rudder/Yaw stick during FPV fly (as a newby) without worrying about accidentally drop the throttle stick...

I am new to the hobby and to this forum. I have got myself a Storm FF from Helipal and also bought the Naza M V2 with GPS. I think I have connected everything as needed. Replace the original Gyro board with the Naza MC and connected the Devo 7 receiver. I am not really sure what should be the next step to configure the profile on the radio and program/calibrate the receiver. Do you have any recommendation or links on how I could go about doing that?

The first thing you need to do is to set up your Devo 7 transmitter.
When you have done that you can easily run through the naza software configuration and choose the settings you like.

If you have connected the Devo 7 receiver with the Naza Gyro, you should be able to use Helipal transmitter setup guide which was originally made for Naza V1. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work just as good for V2.
I see that it is no longer visible on Helipals page, so here is the direct link:

Check if you connected your drone the same way and follow the instructions in Helipals description on how to set up the transmitter.

You can also connect Naza gyro to receiver like Bikenewby did (see above posts) where he explains it in detail how to set up according to his settings.

When you have set this up correctly you can connect the Naza led module to your PC and use Naza software to check all the settings and calibrate your transmitter.

Before flying double check that all propellers are going in the same direction as described in Helipals manual / DJI manual. If not you have to desolder the wires from the ESC to the motor to change the direction of the propeller.
Also double check that the M1-M4 are connected to the right motor.

I just bought one of these drones a couple weeks ago and just bought a Naza setup that will be in tomorrow. Just a couple questions, I noticed that it looks like you changed out the motors as well as the battery. I want to do that with mine but I am not all that experienced with RC things. Can you tell me what ECS's, motors and batteries you guys are using with your drones?

I run with the stock 2200 battery, but I also bought a bigger one (3200) to get more flight time.

I use the stock motors.
However, I see from their webpage that they changed the stockmotors to black ones with two screws mounting. But they are also 1100kv, so you can probably use them without issues.
The motors I have was also stock, but with a spinner (cone shaped top).

I advice you not to reuse the existing JST cables.
Under point 4:
"B)Use a better extender cable and solder directly to the power distribution board (Recommended)"

I haven't really thought about any difference in manouvering with the different batteries. Both work without issues.

only difference is that I get a couple of minutes extra flying time.
I can try to upload a video if you are interested seeing it fly.
I've lost count on number of flights with this setup.

I didn't want to show the props on the video footage so I mounted the gopro underneath. I had to create more space between the yellow sponge balls and the ground. The sponge balls are too small to fit the gopro underneath.

The only problem I had in the beginning was jello effect when filming with my gopro.
After installing the jello killer from Helipal, this problem was solved.

I found this picture which shows how it looked like without the jello killer in front. I will take a new picture tomorrow to show exactly how it looks now. If you see the spongeballs, you will notice that I have some longer plastic extenders between the drone arms and the spongeballs. This is to have space for the gopro.

Images

I am just looking at longer flight time. The current setup only gets maybe 7 minutes. Well the thing starts to beep at around 5 but I have run it to about 7. 15 minutes or more would be optimal and I was looking at getting a higher rated battery but I was worried about the weight. The 2200 mah is 175 grams and the one you got seems to come in what, about 270? I got this for video and photography so I dont care about agility so much just as long as it has enought power to lift the payload with a bit extra incase I need to manuvour out of a bad situation, like a crash from pilot error.