I know this is an old post, but I'm going through something similar right now, and have a couple questions for those in the know.

I bought the Sonnax Sure Cure kit as linked above. I verified that my line bias valve (flat ground type) is MISMATCHED to my separator plate (Hole #26/detent is drilled). I called Sonnax to verify what I need to do, and was told that I should just follow the instructions. Okay, do I need to purchase a new separator plate that is NOT drilled at hole #26, or buy a new line bias valve that does not have the flat ground on it??

Next question (problem?)-someone has been in this trans before and installed the return spring on the end of the TV valve to stop it from sticking. The problem I see now is that even at full stroke of the TV plunger (plunger is flush with the bushing) the TV valve is only uncovering about half of the port because the after-market/added return spring is binding up and won't allow the valve to fully uncover the port... Is half-port exposure enough to allow detent downshifts and proper line rise? Or, should I modify the spring, so that the TV valve will fully open at full TV plunger travel?

For reference, this is a TH700R4, 1990 model year, with auxillary valve body. My first ever TH700 build. Just wanting it to go right. I see the original poster mentioned adding a piece of rod to insure full stroke of the TV valve. I guess once I remove some sections of that added spring, if it is still not opening fully, I will add a section of rod. You guys thoughts/ideas? Should I start a new post on this....?

I know this is an old post, but I'm going through something similar right now, and have a couple questions for those in the know.

I bought the Sonnax Sure Cure kit as linked above. I verified that my line bias valve (flat ground type) is MISMATCHED to my separator plate (Hole #26/detent is drilled). I called Sonnax to verify what I need to do, and was told that I should just follow the instructions. Okay, do I need to purchase a new separator plate that is NOT drilled at hole #26, or buy a new line bias valve that does not have the flat ground on it??

Next question (problem?)-someone has been in this trans before and installed the return spring on the end of the TV valve to stop it from sticking. The problem I see now is that even at full stroke of the TV plunger (plunger is flush with the bushing) the TV valve is only uncovering about half of the port because the after-market/added return spring is binding up and won't allow the valve to fully uncover the port... Is half-port exposure enough to allow detent downshifts and proper line rise? Or, should I modify the spring, so that the TV valve will fully open at full TV plunger travel?

For reference, this is a TH700R4, 1990 model year, with auxillary valve body. My first ever TH700 build. Just wanting it to go right. I see the original poster mentioned adding a piece of rod to insure full stroke of the TV valve. I guess once I remove some sections of that added spring, if it is still not opening fully, I will add a section of rod. You guys thoughts/ideas? Should I start a new post on this....?

Hello Kawabuggy hope you are well,

First of all the seperator plate can be plugged with a led plug which can be purchased from a trans specialist company that sells the shift kits and so forth.You would'nt need to buy a valve. Now for the problem, the spring that is usually used with the correction kits (The spring on the TV Valve) is usually alittle white conical shaped spring that coils inside itself during compression, I believe the port hole your referring to is NOT completely uncovered during full operation, other than that the trans should shift okay providing everything is right in the main gear train...Hope this helps God Bless JL

JL, yes, that does help. I'm familiar with the plugs and I will do that. I was more worried that since that hole was present, maybe there were other inconsistencies with this plate that might preclude its use with my current set up. Plus, since my ATSG manual indicates that the hole in question is for detent, once plugged, will the transmission downshift under heavy throttle input?

Since you are the original poster, did you fab up some type of solid shaft that went between the TV plunger, and the actual TV valve? I can see how that would insure that regardless of plunger spring tension, or length, the TV valve would be actuated when the plunger is pushed in.

You know, I went back out there and laid that plate on the case and now I see that on the case side, it is just a blank passage. It dead ends in the case. So, fluid passing through that hole should not be an issue as it can't go anywhere from there. Maybe the earlier cases (82-86) out there that need the hole, and then the case is opened up to let fluid flow through it, and the VB plate has to have the hole drilled. It does not matter with my case as the hole is "blanked".

I'm going to go ahead and put the plate back on, and rock and roll with my build.

Since we are still talking VB, what is this modification I hear of where you drill somewhere around the TV valve to "equalize pressure"?????? Is this something I should do since I have the valve body in my lap?

Alright, I need to make a correction to this post since other people might turn up this post on a Google search, and I have posted INCORRECT INFORMATION.

I looked no further than the passage in the case. Had I looked further, it would have been apparent that there is an intersecting hole in the separator plate, that then feeds 4 other holes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, I'm back to square one. I have a line bias valve with a flat ground on it, and a separator plate with a hole that lines up with the line bias valve-a big NO NO!

So, I'd still like to know if I can just weld up the hole in my existing plate, or do I need to swap valve bodies? If I weld that hole shut on the separator plate, how will the car downshift? Those holes are all marked as "DETENT" holes in my ATSG manual...

Where do I go from here? I have another line bias valve that has the round end on it, can I just swap it into my existing valve body so that it is correct for the plate that is in there??? Trans is together, and installed, but I don't want to risk driving it, or running it this way, until I am sure that I have all the bugs worked out. Any help from anyone on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

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