Thursday, February 26, 2015

The main difference between fresh water and sea water is that sea water contains a great
many salts which give it certain specific characteristics, and these must be understood by
any aquarist who wishes to keep marine fish.

Sea water Temperature

The temperature of tropical sea water
varies little over the course of a day, or
even a year. Furthermore, marine fish are
generally more sensitive to abrupt
changes than freshwater fish. The temperature
in an aquarium must, therefore, be
fairly stable, remaining at around 25-26°C.

Sea water Salinity

The most important salt found in sea
water is sodium chloride (NaCl), widely
used for domestic and culinary purposes,
but there are plenty more.
The salinity of water, i.e. the quantity of
salts in the water, is expressed in 0/00 or in
g/liter. The mean salinity of the Earth's
oceans is around 350/00, or approximately
35 g salts/liter.
Whatever its salinity, sea water boasts one
remarkable property: the proportion of
each element is constant.

Desalinated water does not therefore contain
less of one or more salts, but the
combination of salts is present in a lower
concentration.
The salinity of sea water varies according
to longitude. It is at its highest in open
seas in the tropics, it is lower near coasts
and after heavy rain, and it is at its lowest
near the poles (due to the influence of
melting snow).

Sea water Density

In marine aquariums, it is not the salinity
of water which is measured, but the density
(often expressed as specific gravity,
S.G.), which can be calculated according
to the following formula:

There are no units of measurements.
The saltier the water, the higher its density.
The density also varies according to temperature
(it goes down as the temperature
goes up). The table overleaf shows
the relationship between salinity and
density with respect to temperature,
which is relatively constant (25-26°C)
in aquariums.

The density, expressed
as specific gravity, a value which is
easy to use, is all that is required to
calculate salinity: it must range
between 1.022 and 1.024.

MEASURING DENSITY

Density is measured with a hydrometer, whose
buoyancy increases as the water gets saltier. In the
aquarium trade, most hydrometers also include a thermometer.
The specific gravity at water level must be read with care; in fact,
it is preferable to use the hydrometer outside the aquarium, as the
movement of the water makes it difficult to read.

In this case,
decant the water into a test tube or a transparent container (a PVC
bottle, for example) and float the hydrometer in it. When it stops
moving, read the value corresponding to the level of the water
(1.023 in the diagram below, and not 1.022). To check whether
your hydrometer is working properly, just measure the density of
a distilled or very soft water: it must equal 1.000.
THE CH

Unlike the general hardness (GH)
which is used to describe fresh water, carbonate hardness (CH) is used in
sea water, where it serves to measure the
quantity of calcium and magnesium carbonates
and bicarbonates present.
This is crucial for maintaining the pH, and
for growing corals, which have skeletons
made of calcium carbonate.

PH VALUES

As sea water is salty, its pH is therefore
higher than that of fresh water. Pure sea
water in the middle of the ocean has a pH
of 8.3- Near the coasts, this drops to about
8 or a little less, as its dilution with fresh
water lowers the salt content. The pH of
sea water in an aquarium must vary
between 8 and 8.5; beyond these values,
animals will experience certain physiological
problems.

Variations in pH in a marine aquarium
Sea water contains a great deal of calcium carbonate
and bicarbonate, and there are only
slight variations in pH in a natural setting.
It is a different matter in an aquarium, a
restricted habitat operating as a closed
cycle. The pH must not fall below 8, but a
slow and regular decrease in this parameter
may be seen.

Why? The water in an
aquarium sometimes contains too much
carbon dioxide, which has a tendency to
lower the pH.
What can you do? The first step is to measure
the CH:
- if it is under 7.2°CH, add calcium or
replace some of the water. This situation is,
however, fairly rare in an aquarium without
corals, solely occupied by fish;
- if it is over 7.2°CH, there is an excess of
carbon dioxide. Stirring of the water must
therefore be increased by using diffusers or
an electric pump.

THE NITROGEN CYCLE

This occurs in the same way in sea water
and fresh water. In a marine aquarium the
vegetation is often less abundant than in
fresh water, and so the nitrates, the end
products of the nitrogen cycle, will have a
tendency to accumulate.
At high doses these pose little danger to
fish but are toxic for invertebrates, especially
corals. It is therefore important to
eliminate them by partial, but regular,
water changes.

FINDING OUT THE CHARACTERISTICS
OF NATURAL WATER

The European Union has set compulsory standards for drinking and environmental quality, but the strict legislation in
the UK goes well beyond these. In England and Wales, for example, domestic water is monitored by the Drinking Water
Inspectorate, which regularly checks up on the practices of the water companies and investigates any possible
infringement of the law.

The Environment Agency, on the other hand, is responsible for the quality of water in rivers, estuaries, and coastal areas.
It issues licenses to discharge waste into these waters and takes chemical and biological samples to monitor the effect
on the environment. The results of these controls are available to the public.

Once a marine tank has been put into
operation, the nitrogen cycle is slower to
take effect than in a freshwater tank:
around 3-4 weeks (although this is a generalization,
as every aquarium is unique).
Fish or other animals must not therefore
be put into the water during this period,
although the length of time can be
reduced by various means, based on the
principle of introducing bacteria.

In any
event, measuring the nitrite levels is an
excellent indicator of the progress of the
nitrogen cycle.
Once the water has been put into the tank,
this parameter must be measured regularly;
when the quantity of nitrites goes
down close to zero, the nitrates appear
and you only need to wait a few days
before inserting the fish. Nevertheless,
measuring the nitrites at regular intervals is
still highly recommended, as long as the
aquarium is in use.

OTHER DISSOLVED
SUBSTANCES

Sea water contains more than 60 elements,
some of them in microscopic amounts: for
example, there is 1 g/m3 of gold in sea
water.
All the solids dissolved in sea water serve
a purpose, and that is why the salts that
are used to reconstitute water must be of
excellent quality.

Some substances can accumulate in sea
water and in high concentrations give rise
to concern. This is especially true in the
case of organic matter, but it is possible to
eliminate them by partially changing the
water or using certain devices, such as an
aerator marshes. Furthermore, good sea water
cannot be reconstituted using poor quality
fresh water.

Where and when to collect natural sea
water?
The ideal solution would be to go to the
open sea, where the water is likely to be
less polluted and to have more constant
characteristics. Near the coasts, the following
must be avoided: urbanized or
industrialized areas and ports, which are
susceptible to pollution; anywhere near
river mouths, estuaries, or bays, where the
water is desalted; and areas of stagnant
sea water (pools at low tide) and salt
marshes.

Coasts with sand dunes are suitable in
principle, but the water is often laden
with suspended sediment. Rocky coasts
are preferable regions from where water
can be collected.
The best periods for collection are autumn
and winter, because plankton develop in
spring and tourism increases the risk of
pollution in summer. Calm weather is
preferable, in order to avoid suspended
material, although a heavy swell reoxygenates
the water.

In this case, the water
can be collected 1-3 days later, the time in
which the suspended material turns into
sediment. However, the water must be filtered
in all cases, first roughly and then
more finely.

The reconstitution of artificial sea water
The quality of the fresh water used is
important: it must be as pure as possible. It
is best to use water with a hardness of less
than 8.4, although reconstitution is still
possible with higher levels, providing the
CH is equal to at least 75-80% of the general
hardness value.

Take care to avoid
water containing nitrates (often found in
farming areas), to which invertebrates are
very sensitive, or metals, toxic for some
animals where present above certain limits.
Making sea water in an
aquarium, before
putting it into
operation
Fill the aquarium with
fresh water and aerate it
for 24 hours. Calculate
and weigh the quantity of
salts to be dissolved, then
introduce them into the
aquarium. Then just aerate for another
24-48 hours and check the density, adjusting
it as required.

ARTIFICIAL SALTS

Several companies have special aquarium salts
on the market, and it is even possible to find
concentrated sea water. Some salts are
intended for marine tanks for fishes, others for
aquariums with invertebrates.

Their quality is
satisfactory, although there are likely to be
improvements in the future, and, as they are
enriched with calcium, micronutrients, and
vitamins, they are obviously relatively
expensive. There have
been no adverse
reports to date about
the use of these
salts in aquariums:
in those areas
where accidents
do occur, they
are usually
due to miscalculations
on the part of the aquarist.

Making sea water
for storage and
back-up

The method is the
same, except that
plastic food containers
are generally
used. The quantity
of salt can be multiplied
by three or
four to manufacture
concentrated water
that will therefore
occupy less storage
space.

Adjusting the
density

• The density is too high
Part of the water is siphoned off - this can be stored
for later use - and the softest water available is
added, taking care to measure the density. When the
water level of a marine aquarium goes down
because of evaporation, it is not the sea water which
is evaporating but the fresh water, and it is therefore
the latter which must be added to make up the level.

The addition of sea water would entail
an increase in density.

• The density is too low
In this case, salts must be added. These
must be dissolved beforehand in a container
which is then gradually emptied
into the aquarium, with constant
checks on the density. Both these
operations must be performed with
care if the aquarium already contains
fish, in order to avoid causing any
excessively abrupt changes that could
be detrimental to the fish.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Water, a haven for life:

Without water, there would be no life on our planet. Excessively pure water, however, does not enhance the development of living organisms.

As it is the elements contained within water that make this possible. Getting fish for plants to live and reproduce in an aquarium therefore requires some basic knowledge of the characteristics of water, which, although a constant presence in our daily existence, is often little understood as an environment that supports living organisms.

What is Fresh Water?

Fresh water is also known as Continental water, a more accurate term from the
scientific point of view. Continental water accounts for only 2.6% of the Earth's water, the
rest being made up of seas and oceans. Of this volume, 98% consists of sterile water, in the
form of glaciers and underground water, leaving only the water of rivers, lakes, and ponds
as shelter for living organisms- barely 2% of the total volume of Continental water.

Fresh Water Temperature

An important parameter for aquatic life,
the temperature regulates the growth of
animals and plants and exerts an influence
not only on oxygen levels but also on
many other factors.

Whereas mammals have a regulated and
practically stable internal temperature,
that of fish and other aquarium creatures
varies according to the temperature
of the water around them.

They
can survive only at certain temperatures
and some species are more sensitive than
others to variations in this parameter.
The temperatures of fresh tropical waters,
ranging from 20 to 30°C, are characterized
by less significant variations than those
found in temperate regions.

In some
places the shade provided by the tropical
forest cools the water, while in calm water
the temperature goes up under the direct
influence of the sunlight.

The mean temperature most often recommended
for aquariums is 25°C, and variations
of 1 or 2° are of little consequence.
Fish are even capable of withstanding
even more significant variations for brief
periods (under 24 hours).

On the other
hand, their metabolism (i.e. their general
bodily functioning) is in danger of serious
disturbance over any longer periods, and sooner or later they may die. It must also
be noted that excessively low temperatures
sometimes favor the development of
certain diseases.

Fresh Water Oxygen and Carbon
Dioxide

Since air contains around 20% oxygen,
even the most oxygenated water rarely
contains more than 1% dissolved oxygen.
Fish have special organs - branchiae -
which allow them to extract most of this
(see Anatomy and Biology.

Oxygen contributes, in
addition, to the respiration
not only of
plants but also of
organisms which are
invisible to the naked
eye and often forgot-ten: the bacteria. The latter transform the
organic matter emitted from living beings
(excreta and various other residues), and
these chemical reactions similarly require
oxygen.

The oxygen in water comes from the dissolution
of the oxygen in the air, a process
enhanced by movements in the water produced
by wind, currents, or downward
flow. The more water is stirred, the more
it is oxygenated. Plants also provide oxygen,
which they produce through photosynthesis,
although this process occurs
only by day.

The maximum amount of
oxygen that water can contain is determined
by its temperature: the higher this
is, the less oxygen the water can contain
(at 25°C there is 18% less oxygen than at
15°C).
Oxygen is measured in mg/liter, and its
control is quite a complicated matter. The
most turbulent, and therefore the most
oxygenated, water contains 8-10 mg/liter,
while the most deficient water sometimes
has less than 2 mg/liter.

The oxygen content in an aquarium is usually
at its maximum, providing the recommendations
for stirring the water are
followed. The rare problems which do
occur are the result of negligence as
regards the overall balance of the aquarium
(overpopulation of fish, small number
of plants), or non-functioning of equipment
due to forgetfulness, breakdown, or
a power cut.
Carbon dioxide derives from the respiration
of fish, plants, and bacteria.

Stirring the water enhances its oxygenation,
thereby reducing the levels of carbon
dioxide in the water, and passing it into
the atmosphere. Carbon dioxide is quite
rare in an aquarium, and this can, to some
extent, prove prejudicial to plants, as they
absorb it by day through photosynthesis to
extract the carbon they need to grow.
It is therefore vital to establish a permanent
equilibrium between oxygen, carbon
dioxide, plants, and fish, although this balance
changes at night, when plants stop
producing oxygen.
Carbon dioxide is also one of the main factors
affecting the pH.

Fresh Water PH Values

The pH measures the acidity or alkalinity
of water, with the value 7 representing
neutrality. Below this level the water is
acid, and above it the water is alkaline (or
basic). Categorizing water as acid does
not mean that it contains dangerous acids.

In forest streams and rivers the water
accumulates with acid organic fluid
(humic acid) derived from the decomposition
of plants (humus), producing an
amber yellow color.
Generally speaking, aquatic life can exist
only between pH 5 and 9.

These extreme
values are rarely found in an aquarium,
where the pH ranges from 6 to 8 according
to the type of water, and usually lies
between 6.5 and 7.5. In aquariums, the
term acid water corresponds to a pH
between 6 and 6.8, while alkaline water refers to one between 7.2 and 8, and a pH
between 6.8 and 7.2 is considered neutral.

Variations in pH are mainly the result of
biological activity: the carbon dioxide produced
by living beings acidifies the water
at night and the pH goes down slightly.
Once the carbon dioxide has been
absorbed by the plants during the day the
pH goes up again.
Although slight variations are therefore
normal, more extreme changes can be a
warning signal.

The pH is a good indicator
of an aquarium's equilibrium, and it
should therefore be measured regularly. A
colored marker dipped into a sample of
water is used to compare the color
obtained with the scale provided. Electronic
meters are also now available for
testing pH values.

Adjusting the pH

The pH of domestic water may not always
be particularly suited to the fish you have
chosen. Furthermore, when an aquarium
is in use the pH can rise and fall, slowly
but very regularly.

There are some aquarium
products on the market that enable
adjustments to be made to the pH, but
there are other ways of modifying it.

• If the pH is too high
- the water can be diluted with another
more acid water;
- the stirring of the water can be reduced.
Carbon dioxide is eliminated less quickly
and remains in the water to acidify it. Be
careful, because decreasing the stirring
also lowers the oxygenation;
- the water from the aquarium can be filtered
over peat, which will release certain
acids. The amount of peat needed to maintain a specific pH value must be
found through trial and error, with regular
measurements of the pH.

• If the pH is too low
- the water can be diluted with another
more alkaline, and generally harder water
(see Hardness, below);
- the agitation of the water can be increased,
enhancing the elimination of the carbon
dioxide dissolved in the water and therefore
lifting the pH;
- the water can be filtered over calcareous
material, rock, or oyster shells broken into
little pieces. In this case, the hardness also
increases.

Fresh Water Hardness

There are kits on the market that offer
even the novice aquarist the panoply of
tests required to control the majority of
the main parameters for water.

The hardness of water refers to the combination
of substances based on calcium
(Ca) and magnesium (Mg) that are contained
in it. The main substances, known
as salts, are carbonates, bicarbonates and
sulfates.

Water with zero hardness does not contain
any of these salts; this is the case with distilled
water.
The water in some areas can be particularly
hard, mainly due to the presence of
limestone (or calcium carbonate).

The hardness of water really depends on
the land through which it has passed: the more calcium and magnesium the rocks
contain, the harder the water.

The effects
of this can be seen in domestic use: a
washing machine, for example, will
require more detergent. Above certain
limits of hardness water is unfit for human consumption
or any other use. Water with a low degree
of hardness, i.e. containing few calcium
and magnesium salts, is considered soft.
Water with a high degree of hardness is
classified as hard.

Fresh Water Food Chains

In nature
Life in water, as on land, is not possible without light. Vegetation
(microscopic plankton or plants) absorbs it with carbon dioxide
(CO2) and uses the mineral salts, which act as nutrients. This
vegetation serves as food for herbivorous or omnivorous fish, which
in their turn provide nutrition for carnivorous fish.

From this point,
the next link in the chain can be aquatic (dolphin, shark), terrestrial
(man), or aerial (bird). When aquatic organisms die, they fall to the
bed. Their bodies are degraded by the action of bacteria, the
material is recycled into mineral salts, and so the chain comes full
circle. (While they are alive, it is their excreta that are recycled.)

Fresh Water Peat

Peat derives from the decomposition of vegetation in an acid
environment lacking in oxygen. This

process, which lasts several
centuries, gives rise to a peat bog from which compact, fibrous peat
can be extracted.
It endows water with both a yellow amber color and acidity, which
gives it slightly antiseptic properties. This means that some diseases
are less common in acid water.

The use of horticultural peat, which
often has been enriched with various products, must be avoided in
favor of the peat for aquarium use that is commercially available.
Boil it for around 15 minutes before use.

In the Amazon region of South America, the color of the water
ranges from amber yellow to brown, due to the leaves and
branches floating in it. In an aquarium, peat can be used in the
filtering equipment to reproduce the characteristics of this type of
water (low hardness, pH under 7, coloring).

The hardness of water is expressed in
German degrees (°GH or °DH), not to be
confused with Celsius degrees (°C) for
temperature: 1°GH is equivalent to 17.9
mg

Ca/liter, or 17.9 parts per million
(ppm). The term most often used to classify
hardness is general hardness (GH),although total hardness (TH) can also be
used.

There are three main categories of water
in fishkeeping:
- soft water, which is generally acid, at
3°GH or 50 ppm;
- medium water, which is neutral or
slightly alkaline, at 6°GH or 100 ppm;
- hard water, which is highly alkaline, at
12°GH or 200 ppm.
We will go on to discover that some fish
families can adapt only to certain types of
water.

Measuring GH of Fresh Water

A colored indicator is used: the number of
drops needed to obtain a change in color
indicates the degree of hardness.
It should be noted that the degrees of
hardness used in analysis kits may vary
according to the country in which it was
manufactured; in some cases French degrees
are used.

These can be converted as follows:
1°Fr=0.56°GH

• How can the degree used by a manufacturer
in a product be identified?
To confuse matters further, you may also
come across Clark in older books on fishkeeping.
The old-fashioned Clark system
for hardness was somewhat laborious,
being based on measurement of the foam
created by a soap solution, and has now
become obsolete. If you have any doubts
about the units used by the manufacturer of
an analysis kit, just measure a GH you
already know, such as that of bottled water.

The relationship between GH and CH

We have already seen that significant
changes in the pH are prejudicial to aquaticlife,
especially if they occur too abruptly. To compensate for this, nature has provided a
screening device, the CH (carbonate hardness,
i.e. the hardness due to calcium and
magnesium carbonates and bicarbonates).
The higher this is, the less the risk of any
major variations in the pH. and vice versa.

This phenomenon, known as buffering, can
therefore only occur in acid fresh water.
There is a relationship between the CH and
the general hardness: the closer the CH
value comes to the GH value, the more balanced
the water. If the CH is less than 75%
of the GH, you are likely to encounter a
problem, and it is therefore not advisable to
use water with these characteristics in an
aquarium.

Modifying the hardness of fresh water

Sometimes the water available presents a
hardness value inappropriate for its
intended use in an aquarium. In most
cases, the water will be a little too hard,
and so the GH must be brought down for
use in a mixed aquarium or a rearing tank.

In other, less common cases, the water can
be slightly too soft, and so the GH needs to
be raised.
• Reducing the GH
Water with a low hardness value can be
mixed with water that is too hard. There
are several alternative sources of water - rain water;
- spring and well water;
- defrosting water from a refrigerator;
- water from melted snow;
- distilled water, available in bottles;
- some brands of mineral water;
- natural flowing fresh water.

The volume of water that can be obtained,
and its price, obviously depend on which
of these sources is used. Filling a tank
with a capacity of several hundred liters
with water of a precise hardness can
sometimes be a laborious process. A final
piece of advice: avoid using water from a
domestic softener, as the calcium salts are
replaced by other salts.

Osmosed water
is an attractive option, but
the equipment represents a substantial
investment.
• Increasing the GH
The water in question can be diluted with
harder natural water, generally easier to
find than soft water, or put some calcareous
rocks in the aquarium, regularly monitoring
the GH, or filter the water over
oyster shells crushed into tiny pieces.
Any modification in the hardness of water
is matched by a modification in the pH:
increasing the hardness of the water also
increases its pH, and vice versa.

Obtaining water with a precise hardness
Let us suppose we have two types of
water, one hard and one soft, with which
to "manufacture" an intermediate water:
- water A, with a GH of 9°GH;
- water B, with a GH of 3°GH;
- target water, with a GH of 5°GH.
Calculations:
GH water A - GH target water = 9 - 5 = 4.
GH target water - GH water B = 5 - 3 = 2.

The combination of 4 liters of water B and
2 liters of water A results in 6 liters at
5°GH. Filling a 180 liter tank will require
180 (6 x 30 times this mixture, i.e. 60 liters
of water A and 120 liters of water B).
Another example with the same water:
filling the same tank with water at 7°GH
will require 120 liters of water A and 60
liters of water B.

Fresh Water Turbidity

The turbidity of water refers to the presence
of suspended matter - either living
organisms forming plankton (rare in an
aquarium) or inert matter, such as animal
or vegetable remains or particles of sediment,
particularly mud.
The size of this suspended matter ranges
from a few thousandths of a millimeter to
several millimeters.

In calm, unstirred
water it forms sediment at a speed in proportion
to its weight. In running or turbulent
water, some of the matter remains
permanently suspended, giving rise to
more pronounced turbidity.
In aquariums, where the water is always
in motion, systems of varying degrees of
sophistication
allow fishkeepers keep their water clear.

The effects of this are entirely positive:
- the visual appearance is improved;
- the light required by the plants penetrates
the water and reaches them more
easily;
- there is less risk of disease, particularly
in the fishes' branchiae;
- there is little sedimentation on the base
of the tank, reducing both the possibility
of any warping due to excessive weight
and the decomposition of organic matter.

NITROGENOUS PRODUCTS
AND THE NITROGEN CYCLE

Nitrogen (N) is one of the components of
certain substances, largely derived from
the excretion of fish, that are dissolved in
water. These substances, of varying structural
complexity, are quickly converted
into ammonia (NH3 or NH4+), which is
highly toxic for animals.

At this point oxygen
and bacteria intervene to convert the
ammonia into nitrites (NO2-), which are
also very toxic. Other bacteria, still accompanied
by oxygen, transform them in their
turn into nitrates (NO3-), slightly toxic for
fish but which can be used by plants as
nutrients. These transformations, taken as
a whole, are referred to as the nitrogen
cycle. In nature, land-based elements can
also participate (see diagram). As plants
are at the base of the food chain, they also
take part in the nitrogen cycle.

In an aquarium, the situation is different.
Some fish partly feed on plants, but most
of them are fed by the aquarist; sometimes
there is a surplus of foodstuffs and the
nitrogen cycle is altered as a result. It is
very important to respect the equilibrium
of this cycle. That is why you should not
keep too many fish and you should not
overfeed them.

It is also a good idea to
provide the aquarium with a sufficient
amount of vegetation, and to enhance the
development of bacteria, while ensuring
that the water is well aerated. Partial and
regular water changes make it possible to
eliminate surplus foodstuffs, various types
of organic matter, and any nitrates that
have not been used by the plants. A biological
filter enhances the development of
the nitrogen cycle.

Bacteria in the nitrogen cycle

Rarely found in open water (around 1% of
the total count), bacteria colonize essentially
the floor and the decor. They feed
on nitrogenous compounds in the water,
extracting the oxygen from them.When an
aquarium is brought into use, bacterial
colonization of the environment is a slow
process, and so it is advisable not to introduce
the selected fish until 2 or 3 weeks
have elapsed.

The toxicity of nitrogenous compounds

The concentration of nitrogenous compounds
in an aquarium is higher than in a
balanced natural setting, and there are
some limits which must not be exceeded
(see table above).
Ammonia is found in two different forms
in water, and the sum of the two must not
be more than 0.4 mg/liter. Dissolved NH3
ammonia gas is the most dangerous,
although it only appears above a pH of 7
and rarely exceeds 10% of the total ammonia. The more common ionized NH4+ form
is slightly less dangerous.

LEVEL OF NITRITES (NO2-)

No nitrogenous substance should pass the threshold
limit in a well-balanced aquarium. As ammonia and
nitrates are more difficult to assess, it is the nitrites that must be
analyzed regularly. There is a colored marker commercially
available, which gives a stronger color according to the amount of
nitrites present.

If the latter are too abundant:
- either there is a general imbalance (too many fish, too much
food in the water) which entails a high production of ammonia
and, therefore, nitrites;
- or there is a problem connected
with the transformation of
nitrites into nitrates,
often a lack of the
oxygen required
by bacteria.
The level of nitrites,
like the pH level
discussed above, is a
good indicator of the
equilibrium of an
aquarium, and it is
therefore important to
measure it regularly.

OTHER DISSOLVED SOLIDS

A great many other substances are to be
found dissolved in water. Their content is
generally low and does not pose any problems,
and some of them, such as micronutrients,
are even very beneficial. This term
covers a variety of elements including vitamins
and metals, which in tiny quantities
are indispensable to life.

Iron, for example, plays a role in the composition
of hemoglobin, the red blood cells
which transport the oxygen taken in by the
branchiae. It also participates in the photosynthesis
of plants, which have a tendency
to turn yellow if there is an iron deficiency.

Manganese is equally important, as it is one
of the components of chlorophyll, the
green pigment in plants that allows them to
absorb light and develop.
There are, of course, other metals that are
also naturally present in water, but their
concentration hardly ever exceeds a few
thousandths of a mg/liter, and some, such as copper, become toxic
if it goes beyond this
limit.

Origin and quality of
fresh water used in
aquariums
The simplest and cheapest
means of obtaining
water is turning on a
faucet, but there are
other possibilities,
especially when it
comes to obtaining
natural water.

• Domestic water
As long as water is
drinkable, there is
no reason why it is
not suitable for fish.
In some regions the
water is sometimes too
hard (general hardness
above 11°GH), and so the option of mixing it
with softer water must
be considered.
Domestic water must never be introduced
in large quantities into an aquarium which
already contains fish. It is also advisable
to let it settle for 24 hours to eliminate any
excess of gas (caused by the pressure).
When filling a tank before putting it into
operation, this step is not compulsory, as
it will not be housing fish immediately.
• Natural water
Natural water close to home usually
shares many of the characteristics of
domestic water, as it makes up a large part
of the public water supply.
However, it should be possible to find
water with different characteristics not too
far away.

• Spring water
This is the most desirable water, as it is
the purest, with no suspended material,
little or no organic matter and a high bacteriological
quality.
• Well water
This is of a similarly good quality,
although it sometimes contains an excess
of gas. It can occasionally be slightly ferruginous
(containing iron), which favors
the growth of plants.

Optimum Characteristics of fresh water suitable for aquariums

Parameters

Optimum characteristics

Observations

Color

Colorless

Yellow-colored water contains organic matter.

Turbidity

None

The water must be limpid and crystal-clear.

Smell

None

Sometimes water containing organic matter has
a characteristic smell of humus.

Temperature

Under 25°C

It is advisable to collect water with a temperature
between 5 and 15°C.

pH

6.9

It should preferably be between 6.5 and 7.5.

Oxygen

The maximum

This is the case with springs and streams.
Stagnant and still water is not suitable.

Hardness

Under 16.8°GH

Beyond 11.2°GH, it must be mixed with fresh
water (except in rare cases, for certain fish).

Ammonia

Under 0.4 mg/liter

This value is rarely attained in balanced water.

Nitrites

Under 0.1 mg/liter

This is the drinking water threshold.

Nitrates

Under 50 mg/liter

This is the threshold for drinking water, often exceeded
in farming areas.

Water Usable in Aquariums

Rainwater

Rainwater is soft and acid, so is useful for
diluting water that is too hard. It should
be collected in plastic containers; if these
are put under a gutter, take care not to
collect the first water, as this will have
cleaned the roof. In urban and industrial
areas, rainwater is liable to contain pollutants,
and it is therefore not advisable to
use it.

• Stagnant water (ponds)
and still water (downriver)
Such water can pose
a microbiological
risk, and it is not
advisable to use it.

• Demineralized and
distilled water
Their pH is neutral or
very slightly acid,
with little or no hardness.
Their high price
means that they are only used for mixing
with hard water, or for filling a small rearing
aquarium. Do not forget that softened
water cannot be used.

• Bottled water
This is often referred to as mineral water -
erroneously so, as some brands contain
hardly any minerals and are quite soft.
These are certainly not used to fill up huge tanks, bottle by bottle, as this would be
too expensive and time-consuming, and
therefore serve a similar function to that of
distilled water.

Whether you're angling with fly or spinning apparatus, having the right gear can have the results between an effective angling fishing and a baffling one. Purchasing the right apparatus doesn't need to be troublesome, and shouldn't keep you from seeking after trout and salmon.

In this segment you'll figure out how to purchase the correct fly line, select the right fly bar and reel, and select the right leader. You'll additionally figure out how to pick the right spinning or baitcasting rod, reel, and line.

After the greater part of your planning for a day's angling outing, the exact opposite thing you need is to reel in a broken line and not be arranged to alter it on location. The diagrams in this article provides for you accommodating line weight details initially. And after that pictures reveal to you utilizes for particular situations. With this data you'll have the capacity to better arrangement and you'll be better arranged to handle a percentage of the inexorable circumstances that can happen on angling day.

Next, we'll demonstrate to you generally accepted methods to recognize and select the proper tools and instruments to help you perform the little assignments, for example, including tippet, weighting nymphs, keeping dry flies above water, and checking water temperature.

Purchasing the right angling rigging shouldn't be scary. Actually, its the initial move to really getting out on the water.

The most effective method to buy and choose fly rods and reels

Rods

In spinning and baitcasting, its critical to choose the right rod, yet the determination is not as basic as in fly angling. A fly rod pushes the line, which thus impels the fly; if the rod is not matched to the line, throwing is beside unimaginable. At the point when picking a fly rod, consider the folor:

Choosing the right rod material.

Looking at the rod power

Looking at the rod action

Choosing the rod length

Choosing the right rod material.

Rods need to give solace, incredible sensitivity open up the adrenaline when fighting with fish. This is the reason rod specialization needs to be handled when calculating. It is occupant for each fisher to know the right rod material for particular techniques and procedures.

Graphite Rods versus Fiberglass Rods versus Bamboo rods:

In the late 1940s, fiberglass rod changed fly angling. They were impressively less costly than the old bamboo rods. Anyway they had favorable element, they were lighter and stiffer, so they could deal with a fly line all the more effortlessly. With the presentation of graphite in 1972, bar building innovation took an alternate quantum jump. Graphite rods are known to be amazingly delicate and fragile. As a rule this is a tremendous focal point.

Today's graphite rods measure 20 to 25 percent not as much as glass rods of the same solidness, and 40 to 45 percent not as much as bamboo. Hence, graphite rods can be longer and lighter, yet all the more influential. What's more you can cast more remote with less exertion.

Fiberglass once in a while gets negative criticism as large portions of these fly rods are composed off as generally being overwhelming, with the rod action like a carriage whip. That truly isn't a reasonable evaluation whatsoever, since there are some genuine diamonds in vintage fiberglass, furthermore it must be thought seriously about that amid the prime of fiberglass an "ultralight" fly rod was regularly a 5-weight, and most fly rods fabricated around then were 6-, 7-, and 8-weights. Path in those days, yes, they were overwhelming.

The innovation and mastery to fabricate longer and lighter fiberglass fly rods didn't generally show itself completely until the late 1970s, when the material was being stopped by numerous organizations for graphite. Pretty much the time that glass rods configuration was going to blossom, the industry moved pretty much altogether to graphite fly rods, since that material is naturally lighter.

Casting with fiberglass rods has a tendency to be more simpler and more directed to bearing as examined in most forums. In a period of quick action graphite, its anything but difficult to overlook that you should feel your forward and backcast, and that the fly rod is truly expected to do most of the work.

In the event that you are fly casting to appreciate the entire activity and experience how simple it ought to be, then maybe you ought to attempt fiberglass. I for one prescribe any beginner to start with fiberglass. You should do nothing more than slowdown your casting stroke which empowers the fly rod to chip away at it claim. Fiberglass bars may not be known for laser loops, they are useful for distance casting.

Due to the conspicuous favorable circumstances of graphite, less and less glass rods are created nowadays. For the individuals who appreciate the sentiment of angling with a bamboo bar, there are numerous makers and custom bar producers as yet building them. Some old bamboo rods have gotten to be collected artworks, telling costs well into the a huge number of dollars. Bamboo has delighted in resurgence in prevalence in the course of the most recent decade or two, and its doubtful bamboo rods ever will go out of style. Graphite rods are here to stay until a new
great advantage overshadows it merits.

Both fiberglass rods and graphite rods are prescribed. Anyway to pick between these two relies upon taste and point of interest.

Looking at the Rod Power.

For peak casting performance, the power or stiffness
of your fly rod should match the weight of your fly line. If the rod is
too light, it will flex too much and lose its casting power. Too heavy,
and it will not flex enough to propel the line.

Most fly rods have a line weight printed near the
grip. As a rule, you can use line one size lighter or heavier than the
recommended weight.

For high level of casting execution, the power or firmness of your fly rod ought to match the weight of your fly line. On the off chance that the rod is excessively light, it will flex an excess of and lose its throwing force. Excessively substantial, and it won't flex enough to impel the line.

Most fly rods have a line weight printed close to the grip. Generally speaking, you can utilize line one size lighter or heavier than the prescribed weight.

Looking at the Rod Action.

The word"action" may be the most abused term among fishermen. Some mistake action for power; others say "this rod has a pleasant action," implying that it feels great in the hand.

Actually, two separate qualities focus "action." The first is the place the bar twists under a load. The second is the way rapidly it recuperates from a bend, or dampens. These qualities are controlled by the configuration of the decrease of the rod, and the material with which the rod is made. Moderate action rods curve pretty much all through their whole length, and recuperate gradually from a twist. Quick action rods flex most close to the tip, and recoup rapidly from a twist. As a rule, the quickest action bamboo rod will feel significantly slower than even a moderate action graphite rod.

A quicker rod structures a narrower circle, which voyages all the more quickly and has less air safety, bringing about more noteworthy separation and precision. Faster rods additionally "hose" all the more rapidly after the cast, so the tip doesn't skip and toss waves into the line. Waves in the line expand air resistance, diminish distance, and cause a messy delivery.

A slower rod absorbs more shock, a big advantage when fishing dry flies with light tippets.
A slower rod makes it easier to control casting distance. Because the
loop is not as narrow, the line speed is slower, so you can easily stop
the line when the fly is over the target. Nonetheless, the wide loop
reduces casting distance considerably.

Unfortunately, there are no industry standards to
designate action, and some rod makers don’t even try. One manufacturer’s
“slow” rod may have the same action as another “medium” rod. An
experienced tackle-shop employee can help you make your decision.

Checking out the Rod Length.

A 7½- to 9-foot (2.3 to 2.7 m) fly rod suits most trout fishing situations, but longer and shorter rods also have their uses.

In the past, anglers shied away from longer rods
because they were too heavy. Today’s graphite rods are so light that
greater lengths are becoming popular. Long rods give you more casting
power, make it easier to mend the line, and help you keep your back cast
high enough to avoid streamside brush. Also, with the rod tip high it’s
easier to control your line and fly on the drift. Salmon anglers often
use two-handed rods called Spey rods, named for Scotland’s legendary
Spey River, up to 15 feet (4.6 m) in length, for making long casts,
controlling the line on the water, and handling these powerful fish.

Short rods are easier to handle on narrow, brushy
streams. They also make it easier to place a fly beneath an overhang,
and to land trout in tight spots. Anglers on brush-lined creeks
sometimes use fly rods as short as 6 feet (1.8 m).

(middle) up-locking, used on heavier rods to prevent
unscrewing, and for more length behind the reel so the spool won’t rub
clothing; (bottom) sliding-band, to reduce weight on bamboo rods and
light graphite rods.

Grips include (bottom) cigar, for short- to
medium-range casting with light rods; (middle) half Wells, with a
thicker front for more casting leverage and a raised middle for a better
grip; (top) full Wells, with a raised front for even more casting
leverage, and a raised middle.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Deeper smart fishfinder is the first of its kind compact, remote sonar, good with 6000+ iOS and Android gadgets, extraordinarily intended to discover the area of fish, profundity, water temperature, base shape and substantially more.

I decided to write about this product because it comfortably sits on the bestsellers position on amazon. Deeper sonar is manufactured by Friday labs. They are located in Lithuania Europe. In 2013 a friend bought this fishfinder for me as a valentine present. Yeah sounds weird since we were not dating :)

I have used many types of fishfinders. Before Deeper my favorite was the garmin echo 500c. I still like it though. But using Deeper smart fishfinder has added more value and speed to my fish catching skills. I have been able to omit the waste of time i used to incur.
Now all i do is connect the app to the product after tossing it to the water from a rod and viola, I start getting my feeds. The pictures are more amazing. There is a representation of the fishes as they pass by. You actually see the bottom of the water, contours and structures. If you haven't used one yet, I suggest you read on. I have personally dedicated this article to fully blog about it.

Deeper utilizes Bluetooth innovation to exchange sonar readings to your cell phone or tablet from up to 150ft/ 45 meters. Bluetooth association empowers lower battery utilizations and no cell information needed for the gadget to work, so you can utilize Internet association on your cell phone or tablet while angling.

With the weight of just 0.22lb/ 100grams and 2.6"/ 65mm measurement, Deeper is littler and lighter than some other conventional sonar. Uniquely intended to fit into your angling supplies fishing container, so you could take your individual sonar anyplace you go and place it in spots most sonars can't, as from kayak, shore, or dock.

Deeper sonar is sufficiently compelling to splendidly work in the profundities from 1.5 ft (0.5 m) to ~130 ft (40 m) underneath the surface in both salt and new waters.

With castable Deeper and its mounting arrangements you can investigate the lake, stream or ocean from each point. Output places other fish discoverers can't reach.

Deeper temperature sensors give precise variances of the water temperature so you generally know the ideal biting time. Deeper's high precision sonar shots uncover the greater part of the fish species with a precious stone clarity and permits you to focus on your prey with a certainty.

Deeper's emphasized innovation gives completely clear, picture-like pictures of the fish targets and base structure with astounding detail straight to your cell phone or tablet. Fish are strikingly uncovered as unmistakably characterized targets and divided from the structures, so you can quickly comprehend of what you see and no understanding required.

Deeper double recurrence peculiarity permits phenomenal perception of the submerged at all profundities in 90 kHz (55°) and 290 kHz (15°) sweep. Wide shaft gives sufficient hunt territory to fish, lure fish and structure. Exact slender shaft gives high precision returns of fish, structure, detail and base profile. With Deeper you can both cast wide or concentrate on the botttom.

You also get the full control of all sonar functions and features with user friendly Deeper mobile app. Adjust the sensitivity of a sonar returns to increase/decrease details displayed, switch between different frequencies for wider or more accurate exploration, put the device into a low power consumption sleep mode or wake it up with your iOS or Android device and much more.

With the application installed, you will have will be able to update your gadget on the pass by utilizing your Android or iOS cell phone or tablet and Deeper application. You'll get the most current gimmicks and best execution from your sonar by staying up with the latest with the most recent programming.

Sharing is now easier with Deeper smart fishfinder. When you catch a monster fish or a big beast? Use Deeper versatile application to take pictures and offer them with your companions anyplace on the planet on Facebook, Twitter and Gmail+.