disconnect ISC
start car and idle for 1 minute without touch gas ( if yours stalls like mine u will have to turn the idle screw up until u can get it to idle)

set the idle so it is above 750rpm
Switch the engine off for a minimum of 10 seconds
Start the engine and let it idle for one minute ( again no accelerator )
adjust the idle so it is between 625rpm and 675rpm
Switch engine off and reconnect ISC

Disconnect the ISC
Place a 0.75mm feeler guage in between the idle stop and the idle adjust screw
Start the car in self test mode (bridge the first top and bottom wires of the diagnostic connector) you now have 2mins to complete the adjustment
if the idle is not at 700rpm +-50 then adjust to 650 rpm
turn car off
un-bridge diagnostic wires
reconnect ISC
happy motoring with a nice smooth idle.......so long as your ISC is working.
Many people forget the 0.75mm feeler guage, so their idle is erratic. You need the 0.75mm gap so that the ISC has something to work with. If everything is set right the car will not start with the ISC disconnected!

I'm not sure. But when I have a think about it, it makes sense that it would be similar. First, in self test mode the computer leaves all settings at a base mark. Second, the way the ISC works, it needs to be able to raise and lower the idle to be able to fully control the idle speed. If you set the idle without the feeler guage then the ISC could only raise the idle. But then again maybe the computer in the EA's is not setup to control the idle, but to mearly raise the idle when under load, ie Air Con, etc.

Hey it can't hurt to try it with the feeler guage, just to see what happens. You never know, you may get a better idle......or your car may not start....50-50 chance I guess, but if you remember how many turn it took for the idle to be adjusted, it'll only take a few mins to get it back to how it was. I say try it, you've nothing to lose!