A Hamburger Today

'The Chronicle' on Pizzeria Delfina

Posted by Adam Kuban, Mar 8, 2008

Michael Bauer, food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, continues his Pizza Friday series on his blog Between Meals with a trip to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. Delfina makes a thin-crust Neapolitan-style pie, "with a nod to New York," Bauer says.

Crust: Masterful. Stoll has been able to create a dough that when baked is both slightly chewy and crisp. It's thin at the center with a golden brown, puffy edge with a few welcome darker bubbles. Toppings are judiciously applied so that the yeasty character of the crust emerges.

Pizza tried: My all-time favorite is the Salsiccia, with a slather of tomatoes, mozzarella, bell peppers, onions and excellent house-made fennel sausage. The Margherita is a deceptively simple blend with fior di latte mozzarella and basil; diners can also upgrade to Bubalis Mozzarella di Bufala for a couple bucks more.