Why Is My Pilsner So Boring?

I like most people in the western world read articles on the internet and then get pretty angry or at least some degree of miffed, annoyed, or self righteous. This happened to me this morning when I was sent a link to this BBC article about German brewers making foreign style beer. While I'm all for British style ales with the American twist that has captivated the palates of beer drinkers I find it so disheartening that it appears German brewers generally gravitate to this style to be innovative. Sure you'll find some pale ales and stouts made by German craft brewers but their flagship always seems to be the IPA. I understand that the IPA is the style most in demand for craft beer drinkers and thus an excellent choice to head a product line, but when you merely react to the herd and follow it, you will always be lagging behind. "But we have to follow the Reinheitsgebot!", they cry with some misplaced trust that their beer is pure and therefore better. Thus there is no chance for the wide open world of additions that many brewers from the United States and Belgium so gleefully add to their brewing pots and fermentors. Well then why aren't German brewers leading the way with innovation on their traditional styles?

I willingly admit that I am fairly ignorant when it comes to brewing practices and beer history. I heard on and off throughout my life that German beer is good beer. I'd only had a few imports in the US besides the classic Oktoberfest beers and overall most of it was somewhere above mass market American swill but well below what I expect from a good beer. I figured I'd arrive in Hamburg and it would be different. I thought I would be greeted by a world of beers to sample. I quickly realized that especially here in the north Pilsner is king and apparently everyone is brewing the exact same recipe. Sure there is slight variation from one brand to another but for the most part it is one boring yellow sea of mediocrity. I can't understand why there is no variation or imagination being poured into the creation of their beer.

Know what sets this beer apart from the hundreds of other German Pilsners? That was a trick question I have no clue.

You know what happens when you drink boring beer? You turn to Whiskey for excitement!

Despite pale lagers being the most consumed in the world I have never met a craft beer fan who says that any incantation of a pale lager is their favorite. I'm sure this person exists; I just don't know them (in the interest of full disclosure I don't know that many people). Although most craft brewers focus more on ale there are exceptions like Jack's Abby which only brews lagers but does so with unique US style. They have done so with great proficiency and are rapidly gaining notoriety. I'm surprised that German brewers haven't followed suit. Since beer sales are at a twenty year low in Germany I would imagine there is plenty of discussion at these breweries in how to increase sales. I just hope that brewers don't attempt to be craft brewers in the sense that Braufactum or Ratsherrn seems to think a fancy label and the word pale ale makes the beer suddenly craft beer. One local example which gives me hope is Prototyp from Kreativbrauerei Kehrwieder which is a tasty cold hopped lager. An influx of Imperial Pilsner or Schwarzbier or a hop forward Helles or Hefeweizen could do wonders to revitalize the German beer market and make my trip to the grocery store more enjoyable.

People have stuck to the since 'it isn't broke don't fix it mantra' with German beer for generations. Only recently with the buzz of craft beer has the thought even been brought up. Sales will continue to decline and the same uninspired Pilsners will continue to line the beer isles of German grocery stores until brewers start offering customers a product to be excited about. I know one guy furiously typing away at his keyboard basking in the pale glow of his monitor will do little to change that, but I can have hop. Until then I will be frustrated with the German brewing scene.