Finally finishing up my rebuild of a 1990 i've had for 3 years now. Removed the AC as the car is going to be most race use because its a 3rd car of mine. Was wondering what I have to cap off, wire or tie down when doing this? already removed the compressor, condenser with fan/receiver drier and lines in the engine bay. I've seen one store that sells an AC delete for the 3s-gte, is this necessary? Thanks for any info!

underscore wrote:When I removed mine I got a pulley from a junkyard non-AC 3SFE so that it's grooved instead of smooth since the belt flips to the other side with the delete.

i'm sorry the belt flips to the other side with the delete? I don't have the engine in front of me, its at the shop finally getting rebuilt. did you use the stock belt? I was told you can remove the AC and use use a different belt to compensate. Just not sure which one. the guy I found selling a ac delete kit cost $70, not sure if its worth it or not...

Yeah it does, the tensioner works in the opposite direction with no AC. I use an 86-89 Celica GTS non-AC belt. I'm not sure what's in the delete kit but you can get a junkyard pulley and then replace the bearing inside (I think it's just a spring clip to get it out) if you want it to be brand new and then you're good to go.

underscore wrote:Yeah it does, the tensioner works in the opposite direction with no AC. I use an 86-89 Celica GTS non-AC belt. I'm not sure what's in the delete kit but you can get a junkyard pulley and then replace the bearing inside (I think it's just a spring clip to get it out) if you want it to be brand new and then you're good to go.

as much as i'd like to do that because I have a little time now and running low on budget, i think i need to bite the bullet and get a kit. sucks its in Europe though. I have to sand down my engine bay, prep/primer and paint it, get a new steering rack and lines, possibly get the brake booster out and rebuilt (212k miles on it with no ABS from the factory), install subframe/engine polly bushings, and get all the little pieces on the engine/trans once it comes back from the shop, lift the car, put the engine in, drop the gas tank for cleaning, replace the fuel pump and filter, service the rear diff and replace the passenger side headlight motor and front bumper with a new GT4 one i bought all before the end of December when i move.

If you're in a rush and tight on funds just run the stock smooth pulley and swap it later, then all you need is a belt that you can get anywhere. I've seen a few people on here run the smooth pulley without any issues.

underscore wrote:If you're in a rush and tight on funds just run the stock smooth pulley and swap it later, then all you need is a belt that you can get anywhere. I've seen a few people on here run the smooth pulley without any issues.

by smooth pulley you mean what's already on the engine just get a smaller belt to fit? I don't have the diagram in front of me at the moment, i can look at the BGB that came with the car tomorrow. I guess its worth skipping spending $70US to get a smooth pulley and a belt if i can mickey mouse something in the meantime.

On my car, I took the AC pressure switch near the firewall, removed it and connected a factory toggle switch in it's place which I placed in the cabin under the steering wheel in one of the factory cutouts. This allows me to control the radiator fan manually if so desired in hot weather or traffic.

On my car, I took the AC pressure switch near the firewall, removed it and connected a factory toggle switch in it's place which I placed in the cabin under the steering wheel in one of the factory cutouts. This allows me to control the radiator fan manually if so desired in hot weather or traffic.

Nice, I'll probably end up doing that. I will hook up a high CFM fan for my large aftermarket radiator, dunno if i'll get a small one for the heat exchanger when i run the 205 IC. I'll just get something to go up where the condenser use to be . Good idea about the switch though.