I have a new (to me) cylinder head for my 1500 that I have had converted to run on unleaded, have finally deburred, cleaned off all of the media blast deposits and am in the process of painting it. In a couple of days it will be ready to swap in place of the one that's currently on the car.

I've never gone this in depth into an engine as I'm a bit of a noob. Just looking for a bit of advice on what to do, what not to do, specialist tools I'll need and any other advice anyone can think of.

What I know so far is:
-Remove intake/exhaust manifolds
-Remove valve cover
-Undo bolts on rocker assy and remove.
-Undo head nuts in reverse tightening order bit by bit
-Remove head
-Replace with new head and gasket (does it just go on dry or do I need sealant?)
-Do everything as above in reverse?

Do I need any new bits?
Do I need to remove any studs to put into my new head or anything?

Just don't want to get half way through and get stuck on something a bit of preparation could prevent.

Undo the rocker assembly bolts a bit at a time also as rockers will under some pressure from springs make sure you have correct head gasket as there are two
recessed block and non recessed and install gasket right way up
Thermostat housing will need new gasket on re assembly when lifting head off beware you don't get any push rods coming out with it as they need to stay in their respective holes also will need new manifold gasket

To reinforce what is posted by others:
1) You MUST ensure that you have the proper head gasket for your MOTOR, not your CAR!!
In the 40 years since your car was built with a 1500, ANY Spitfire motor could have been swapped in.
Check the motor serial number to be sure.
2) Assuming it is a 1500, you MUST fit the gasket properly.
There is a tab on one edge of the gasket that must be placed to the rear of the motor, see the picture here:

Drain the coolant . Disconnect the battery .
-Remove intake/exhaust manifolds
-Remove valve cover
Go to the valve adjusters , loosen all of them as much as possible , then use the lock nuts to lock the adjusters all the way loose .
-Undo bolts on rocker assy and remove.
Remove the push rods , stick them in cardboard .
-Undo head nuts in reverse tightening order bit by bit
-Remove head
Scrape the block clean , get down to bare metal , don't gouge .
-Replace with new head and gasket (does it just go on dry or do I need sealant?)
Sealant is good , find the oil hole , seal all around that hole , top and bottom , try not to get sealant into the oil hole .
-Do everything as above in reverse?

Do I need any new bits?
Hope not , never know , things go funny sometimes .
Do I need to remove any studs to put into my new head or anything?
Nope .

Just don't want to get half way through and get stuck on something a bit of preparation could prevent.
Send me that ticket then please , I'll bring some american beer .

Clean! Make sure head and block clean...a final step is some acetone on a rag or paper towel wipe head...block...and also the gasket. Make sure stud threads are clean...nuts as well...also you have all the washers for the nuts. Calibrate your torque wrench....easy. (There are videos on how to do this..... my new one was off by 3 pounds....yours could be more or less). When torquing head and following the sequence....torque them down in steps..ie 20lbs...then 30lb then Final torque setting as an example.

Treat the new gasket as if it is fragile like an egg....in other words...dont bend it or crease it.

The process is pretty straight forward.....just take the time to prep...