Leggings are recognized as unique fashion items that meet the needs of customers to express individuality due to their protective and thermal functions. They are highly practical fashion items that show a casual, street and sportive style with a noted influence on outdoor leisure fields. This study analyzes the sociocultural background for the spread of leggings as well as their design characteristics, coordination characteristics and authentic characteristics. The formative characteristics of modern legging designs are as follows. First, the shapes of modern leggings are ankle-length, calflength, above-knee, knee-length, stirrup and top of the foot-length. Leggings are transformed in many ways: length-expansion, side-slit, unbalanced length, variations of straps, cut-out, trimmings, pattern transformation and complex form. Second, modern leggings contain achromatic colors in modern and sensual image, vivid colors in sportive image and metallic colors futuristic and technical image. Third, leggings patterns value originality, uniqueness and rarity as shown by printed geometric patterns, hand crafted geometric and natural patterns, and abstract patterns expressed through various materials and themes. Fourth, modern leggings` textures are categorized into erotic, simply-functional, seasonless, glossy, and metallic. Functional and fashionable leggings reflect the psychological needs of modern society. This study suggests a direction for the development of legging designs and provides a theoretical database for higher value-added leggings business.

This study considered movie costumes shown in `Alice In Wonderland` by Tim Burton based on the Theory of Fantasy in Literature by Tzvetan Todorov and Rosemary Jackson. The research method used was a case study on expression types of fantasy used in movie costumes with a literature research based on the Theory of Fantasy in Literature. The Theory of Fantasy in Literature has significance in suggesting a new theoretical approach for understanding a visual perspective and aesthetic characteristics shown in fashion as well as movie costumes. The conclusions of the study are as follows. First, fantasy can connote characteristics of the marvelous, the uncanny, and the imitative through a consideration of Theory of Fantasy in Literature. Second, the marvelous is what is not beautiful, not ugly, but is strange and surprising, and what escapes from the existing norm. The characteristics of the marvelous in movie costumes are expressed through cross-dressing or displayed by allowing the personified animal to wear clothes. Third, the uncanny is something that causes grotesque, disgusting, comic and recreational responses. The characteristics of the uncanny in movie costumes are expressed through exaggerating and artificially transforming the body. Fourth, the imitative is the property of trying to imitate or follow other things. The characteristics of the imitative in movie costumes are indicated by dismantling and expanding a form through borrowing costumes from various ages.

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus` appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

This study analyzes music visualization characteristics in modern fashion based on Wassily Kandinsky`s music visualization theory. Alexander McQueen`s 2014 Spring Ready-to-wear Collection (as inspired by Mondrian`s paintings) was selected as the research subject. First, an analysis of Mondrian`s paintings based on Wassily Kandinsky`s theory shows that music visualization characteristics can be categorized into spatiality, mobility, and duality. Second, McQueen applied Mondrian`s paintings to the overall design, structured the model`s shape in the painting, or created patterns using colors and lines that introduced them in clothes; symbolic forms were also introduced as part of or a decorative factor of the clothes. Third, spatiality refers to the creation of a feeling of space through emptiness or fill using lines, colors, and shape. Musical atmosphere such as dissonance were expressed in clothing through the application of color contrast, lines and silhouette dynamics, and symbolic format and patterns by Mondrian. Fourth, mobility generally refers to motion caused by a certain stimulus. Mondrian expressed vibration, internal resonance, sound level in music that emphasized color irregularity, primary color contrast, and rough brush touches as well as free and organic patterns. McQueen expressed this with primary color contrast using different materials, rough touch based on texture, and pattern repetition through transformation. Fifth, duality generally refers to the artistic effect caused by overlap. Mondrian created a resemblance of dissonance and music through line and color as expressed through the duality of clothing design components based on the artistic sense of the designer.

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aestheticcultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman`s and Carney`s models with Crane & Bovone`s and Entwistle`s sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows `Description`-`Descriptive formative features`, `Analysis`-`Locate the style` and `Aesthetic value`, `Interpretation`- `Interpretation of the fashion object` and `Socio-cultural interpretation`, `Judgment`-`Critical judgment`. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes `Socio-cultural interpretation` of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

With the development of modern society, not only have the Internet and e-commerce been progressed but they also made `consumption patten` diverse. Despite the internet clothing market growth, there is critical a disadvantage, which is consumers is not able to wear the products presented via online pictures. Thus, pictures on the internet are the only information customers can get, which has caused consciousness on the importance of dealing with `customer review`. In spite of the fact that `customer review` has undeniably evolved to be one of customers` essential requisites, the research on this subject is very limited. Until now, the studies on the internet shopping consumers` behavior mostly has to do with the features of `customer review` such as `a sense of exaggeration`, `usability`, `duality`, `purity`, `professionalism`, `reliability`, and the `similarity`, etc.) Therefore, this study categorizes the characteristics of online shopping reviews to `the number of reviews`, `the article-length`, `the existence of photos`, `the rewards for reviews`, `the contents of the reviews` and `the freshness of the reviews` and reviews the impact of an features of `customers` reviews` affecting the internet shopping sales promotion. Moreover, it is to contribute to the marketing strategies of a shopping mall by analyzing consumers` `purchasing satisfaction`, `the intention of repurchasing`, and `the factors of viral marketing`.

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of consumer`s environmental knowledge, eco-friendly attitude and purchase intention about fashion consumers` eco-friendly products. This study was conducted by a survey of 330 males and females fashion consumers in their 20s-40s who experienced eco-friendly fashion products purchase. Respondents, who had purchased eco-friendly fashion items at least once, were selected using convenience sampling through the online survey from March to in 2013. The collected materials were analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test and multi-regression using SPSS 19.0 software. Through the result of statistical analysis, it is found that environmental knowledge has three dimensions; natural environmental knowledge, urbanized environmental knowledge, environmental pollution knowledge. Also the effects of environmental knowledge on eco-friendly attitude are significant and eco-friendly attitude has influence on eco-friendly fashion products purchase behavior. Eco-friendly attitude had an effect word of mouth intention. In addition, there are notable differences in environmental knowledge, eco-friendly attitude and purchase intention depending on fashion consumer`s age. The results of this study will provide useful information for both eco-friendly customer management and fashion marketing strategies. Therefore, the fashion company is needed to consider personal characteristics, customer needs and present condition of purchasing eco-friendly fashion products.

In this study, we investigate characteristics of fall, requirements toward the impact protective clothing, design preferences, etc. to develop the fall impact protective clothing for the silver-aged women. Among the 242 women respondents aging 50s to 70s, 43% experienced the fall in recent 2 years. It is found that the fall mostly occurred in winter season and happened during the regular activities such as walking outside, going up and down stairs. Most of the respondents have no experience buying the impact protective clothing, but they expressed the fall impact protective clothing would help reducing the injury from falls. Moreover, the intention to purchase the impact protective clothing is increasing with an increasing target age. However, the respondents concerned with increasing volume and weight of clothing by the protecting pad inserted into the clothing. The respondents also claimed that the impact protecting clothing should not interfere with their regular physical activities. The survey showed that respondents preferred to embed the impact protective function in pants as a form of the protective clothing. For the design preferences on the pants, casual style and straight silhouette was preferred and stretch fabric was selected. The respondents preferred underwear made of cotton spandex blend with relaxed fit.

This study investigated the perception of upcycling for sensitive university students in regards to fashion trends. It was conducted through questionnaires delivered to male and female college students who majored in clothing related subjects from June 2012 to June 2013 in Gwangju. The contents for this research are general details, seriousness of environmental resources, awareness of upcycle, and purchasing intention for upcycling products. Most of the respondents said that recycling of resources is absolutely necessary due to the impact of environmental pollution and the consumption of resources. On the contrary, the experience of the respondents which purchased recycling products was low. The awareness of also was low, upcycling, internal upcycling brands and internal consumption groups, however, the decisions for subsequent purchases were positive. The reasons for the unsatisfactory of upcycling of products were due to quality and price. The reaction for many upcycle goods had the best question response rate in daily supplies part; subsequently, this study suggested 3 items, apparel products, fashion accessories, and daily supplies. In addition, a group which contains people who expend more for clothing had a lower awareness of upcycle and purchasing intention than other groups that contained some people who expend less. The results of the study can be used in data that recognize the necessary of upcycle education for university students, and develop educational programs. It can also encourage the purchase of upcycle products that reduce the consumption of resources.

This study proposed a revision of standard sizing system for infant clothing to provide exact information for consumers and manufacturers. The size designation was set up by compensating the defect of existing system. Basic body measurement and reference body measurement were analysed according to size designation. The ages of the infants ranged from 0 to 36 month in accordance with safety standard of KC Self-Regularity Safety Confirmation. The results are as follows: Size designation for infant clothing was based on height that was basic body measurement. Chest girth, waist girth, head girth, arm length, foot length and weight were also analysed according to age of the month. It was proposed that height could be written alone and height with age of month did together for size designation. Size intervals of basic and reference body measurements were fixed as follows: size intervals are 5 cm in height, 2 cm in chest girth, 2 cm in waist girth, 1 cm in head girth, 2 cm in arm length, 0.5 cm in foot length and 2 kg in weight. The distributions of height and chest girth showed normal distributions. As height was taller, chest girth was also bigger. But the distribution of waist girth didn`t show remarkable change with age of month. The distributions of arm length and weight showed remarkable difference with growth in 0~9 months, but the amount of growth variation got less in 12~18 months.

The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

This study examined the effect of beauty involvement on self-satisfaction by conspicuous consumption tendency groups. A questionnaire method was used for this study. The subjects of this research were females in their 20s~50s. We distributed 580 questionnaires ets; constantly, 554 sets were used in the final analysis. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, cluster analysis, Cronbach`s alpha coefficient and multiple regression analysis. Beauty consumption behavior factors were classified with hair styling, skin management, make-up and body shaping. Self-satisfaction factors were classified with living, appearance, economic and interpersonal relation. This study classified 4 conspicuous consumption groups (active, passive, syntonic and individuality & frugal group). The active conspicuous consumption group was unsatisfied with most of the self-satisfaction factors. The passive conspicuous consumption group was more interested in skin management factors than other factors. The syntonic conspicuous consumption group was interested in make-up, body shaping and skin management in order to provide a positive impression to other people. The individuality & frugal group was most interested in body shaping that could be achieved at low cost through exercise and diet.

The usage of textile-based sensors has increased due to their many advantages (compared to IT sensors) when applied to body assessment and comfort. Textile-based sensors have different detecting factors such as pressure, voltage, current and capacitance to investigate the characteristics. In this study, textile-based sensor fabrics with sheath-core type conductive yarns were produced and the relationship between capacitance changes and applied load was investigated. The physical and electric properties of textile-based sensor fabrics were also investigated under various laminating conditions. A textile based pressure sensor that uses a sheath-core conductive yarn to ensure the stability of the pressure sensor in the textile-based sensor (the physical structure of the reaction characteristic of the capacitance) is important for the stability of the initial value of the initial capacitance value outside the characteristic of the textile structural environment. In addition, a textile based sensor is displaced relative to the initial value of the capacitance change according to pressure changes in the capacitance value of the sensor due to the fineness of the high risk of noise generation. Changing the physical structure of the fabric through the sensor characteristic of the pressure sensor via the noise generating element of laminating (temperature, humidity, and static electricity) to cut off the voltage output element to improve the data reliability could be secured.

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20`s and 30`s women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

Patent and utility indicate international competitiveness in the knowledge-based society of the century where both the quantity and quality of the nation`s scientific intelligence and innovative technology represent key criteria to evaluate its strength. Thus, discerning the trends of patents is inevitable for further development. This research is centered on apprehending the technological current of the functional clothing of Korea, through an analysis of patents and utility models. The number of patent applications in Korea was low until the mid-1990s. However, it began to grow rapidly in the 2000s and the number of patents surpassed the number of utility starting in 2006. The technological level of invention in this field has been turned into a higher level. The IPC code with the strongest application was the field related to temperature controllable clothing (A41D 13/005), followed by surgeon or patient apparel related fields (A41D 13/12), and reflective or luminous safety devices (A41D 13/01).The main technological idea was to give functionality that could protect the human body from various hazards and represents the goal of various applied techniques. About 66% of domestic patent applications belong to individuals; however, the proportion of corporate or institutional applications(including universities) remains poor. Consequently, more systematic and long-term support for research on patents is required.

The physical properties of textile materials and thermal physiological responses of the human subjects were evaluated with 4 different types of the army combat uniforms including US, German, Korean and general uniforms for this study. 8 male adults were used as the human subjects and the tests were done in the environmental chamber that was of temperature, of relative humidity and below 0.3 m/sec of air velocity. The test protocol consisted the rest period for 20 min., the exercise period for 20 min., the rest period for 20 min., the exercise period under wind condition for 20 min., and the recovery period for 20 min. The human subjects walked with 4.5 km/hr for 10 min., ran 7.5 km/hr for 10 min. during the first exercise period and walked and ran with the same speeds under 3.5 m/sec of the air velocity that simulated outdoor condition during the second exercise period. The test results of the study were as follows; The wind condition affected the skin and microclimate temperature of the human subjects lower compared to without wind condition, but had insignificant effect on the humidity control. The low air permeability of Korean uniform caused blocking the elimination of the humidity from the body and the regulation of body temperature. However, Korean uniforms could be the excellent one with the designs considering the ventilation of the uniforms and the textile fabrics with better air permeability.