Honestly, this is a lot easier than it looks. The key is take your time and don't force anything. Use tweezers to disconnect cables from logic board. Also, use a mini-head screwdriver like for glasses to pry the case open and go slowly.

Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.

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very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!

Each rubber foot has three large tabs occupying 3, 7, and 11 o'clock positions, while a small tab at 9 o'clock position. When you place those rubber feet back to the ring housings, make sure their small tabs aligning with the opening gaps around the rings.

If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.

The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.

However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).

And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.

I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.

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There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

Press inwards between the case and the plastic around the drive. It'll flex the plastic around the drive in and away from the bottom case. The first is about an inch from the center of the slot, then centered on the slot and about one inch past the center.

Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.

Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.

My journey of replacing the hard drive stops at step 29. The screw marked with the yellow circle ("One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner") is very tight. The torque I applied wore out the screw head and it becomes the death sentence announcement of the iBook. Sad.

I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!

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Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps.

Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.

When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!

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The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.

First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.

If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.

I also pulled the power connector from the board and had to send the board to a repair shop to have the connector soldered back on. Working on tiny surface mount components is not for the faint of heart. Sierra Circuit Repair of Chico CA did a good job but it cost me $100.

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.

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Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Tip: the multi-coloured cable may be easier and less daunting to disconnect after removing the top heat shield. Prop the top case upright while removing the shield - the connector is then much more accessible.

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There are two different styles of optical drive ribbon. If the cable extending from the optical drive is white, skip this step. If the cable is orange, then complete this step and skip the next two steps.

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