Whiting: Upper Newport Bay offers sanctuary for all

A crew of four skullers slip over the surface of Upper Newport Bay. There are 1,000 acres of protected area surrounding them. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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A man and his dog cross the wooden bridge on west side of the Back Bay Loop. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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An egret flies over Upper Back Bay. While high bird season has passed, there remain plenty of species. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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The sun turns Upper Newport Bay silver. Soon, the water will turn gold as the sun drops toward the horizon. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Cycling is popular on the Back Bay Loop. I've heard complaints about speed. But when I've visited everyone has played safely. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Thousands of birds dot the sky in the early evening as they head toward the ocean. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Children use the Back Bay Loop to train cross country. These kids run the path on the east side. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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A wide variety of birds can be spotted in Upper Newport Bay, especially during low tides when birds feed in the mud flats. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Kayaking is popular on the bay, and kayaks can be rented in the area for reasonable fees. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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While peak bird season is over, plenty of species remain. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Most people walk a portion of the Back Bay Loop, parking and heading out and back. Cars may only go in one direction. People and riders can go in either direction. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Ducks check out the foam from runoff from the bluffs. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Bird watching is a favorite activity in Upper Newport Bay. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

A crew of four skullers slip over the surface of Upper Newport Bay. There are 1,000 acres of protected area surrounding them. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Relatively flat groomed paths? Check.

Beautiful wild lands? Check.

Easy access? Check.

The only drawback to Upper Newport Bay and its 1,000 acres of open space is not being able to visit more often.

I plan to run the reportedly 10.5-mile Back Bay Loop. But even before I start, I'm running late – about a month late.

I hoped to make it here between December and February – peak bird-watching season when tens of thousands of birds refuel in the mudflats during low tides.

But March, or even April, offers plenty of birds. And the bay is terrific for riding – bicycles or horses, running, walking or kayaking any time of year, any time of day.

I usually end up at the bay toward dusk after an interview in the area. Watching the sunset from the path on the east side is spectacular. The water turns gold; the sky blazes orange and red; the silhouette of birds reminds that there are more powerful – and more meaningful – forces at work.

Those reminders don't demean our daily efforts. Instead, the mysteries of the natural world help put many of the things we stress about in perspective.

They also inspire.

PARKING

Park entrance: I didn't know there was an official park entrance until recently. But there is, and it's worth knowing about. It has bathrooms, and there are precious few in the area.

Other: You can park along most streets on the Back Bay Loop. I like the east side for the views and typically park – for free – either along Back Bay Drive on the south before the bay or on the north along East Bluff Drive.

There also is a parking lot midway along Back Bay Drive. During school hours, you usually can use the portable bathrooms on the east trail. But they are paid for by schools and are locked during non-school hours.

PARK ENTRANCE

OC Parks calls the bay "one of the best (parks) in Orange County for recreation and wildlife viewing ... a Mecca for birders, joggers, bicyclists, hikers, horseback riders, educators."

Yes, even after the winter migration, there remains a wide variety of birds. For more, SeaAndSageAudubon.org.

Park officials report that the area is home to six rare or endangered species, including the light-footed clapper rail, brown pelican, Belding's savannah sparrow, black rail, peregrine falcon and California least tern.

GEOGRAPHY

The area is divided into the Upper Newport Bay Nature Preserve, about 140 acres, and the Ecological Reserve. This is important to some. But the boundaries are invisible for most visitors.

Along with the bay itself, topography includes grasslands, coastal sage scrub and the bluffs.

Officials call the area a critical estuary habitat. They also note the area is home to an endangered plant species called saltmarsh bird's beak.

HISTORY

The bluffs were formed some 15 million years ago, according to park officials. Fossils in the area – and it's prohibited to dig or remove anything – include bison, mammoths and giant sloths.

Some 2,000 years ago, Gabrielino Indians lived in the area, eating fish and plants. In 1837, the land was granted to Jose Sepulveda, who raised cattle and sheep. In 1864, James Irvine and partners acquired the land and formed the Irvine Ranch.

From about 1930 to 1969, there was a saltworks in the area, and shells were dredged to put in chicken feed. Yum!

In 1975, the land was set aside as a state ecological reserve. About 752 acres remain under the care of state Fish and Wildlife officials. The county acquired 140 acres of bluff land in 1989.

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