If someone wanted them bad enough I would certainly do that. The tires have excellent tread and there's no cracking anywhere but these tires are old. Fronts (215/70R15) are dated the first week of 2002 and the rears (275/60R15) are dated the second week of 2007.

I have a set of 4 raised letter BUICK dog dish hub caps for sale. They are in decent condition. 2 have minor cracks on the exterior chrome, 1 has some spots.
I also have the "Beauty" trim rings and 20 clips if needed available.
I have the wheels and tires as well but unless someone lived near San Diego I will likely have to figure out some other disposal for those.
Caps for $35, rings (I think they are SS) $20, retaining clips $15 plus you pay the shipping.
Here's a picture of them on the car. I'll follow up with another post with additional pictures.

So a couple of updates.
I ordered my replacement radiator from Wizard Cooling and it's on the way. Looks like a great improvement over the old factory unit. This version also has a trans cooler in the bottom tank. My current transmission has no cooler that I can see so I will figure out how to take advantage of this.
I started the front brake conversion. The Wilwood kit seems pretty straightforward. There was a spec problem though as the lugs in one of the rotors were pressed in incorrectly resulting in the inability to fit the provided 0.20" spacer over the lugs. They are sending out a replacement. The kit part number from Summit is: WIL-140-12321.
In picture form .. from here to here today.

Thanks again guys. I'm not leaving and I probably should have posted this in the Modified section to begin with.
Right now the car is definitely a bunch of work sorting things out and repairing things as I find them but I am definitely not dissuaded.
Today I ordered a Wilwood front disk brake conversion kit, which will also resolve my lug bolt versus lug nut issue, the bushings and new end links for the sway bar, a few other small items AND, as I was working under the front end yesterday I got dripped on by what I thought was water tight radiator. NOT! I found a spot that had been previously soldered was breaking down. The "patch" just fell right off. So, I pulled the radiator and then found a few spots in the fins that had obviously been oozing for some time. I figured it would be no problem so off I went this morning to my local radiator repair shop and he tells me he can't help me with it. Doesn't work on these old things anymore. Tried another place and they said the same thing. Something about the construction, the type of fins or coils or something. So, after a couple hours of online research I bought a direct fit unit from a place in NY. It's all aluminum and should do the trick.
Sure am glad I have a very understanding and supportive wife! These expenses are a little harder to swallow since we retired.

Thanks for this support guys. Hey, I expected some of this as soon as I found this site. I've been working on cars for over 50 years and have "built" some really awesome ones but never worked on anything like this yet but it doesn't phase me (nor do the naysayers), it just challenges me. I was just hoping for some straightforward answers and not so many opinions. Having said that, there are clearly some very smart and informed folks here.
Not to be disrespectful but while I can look at pictures and go to car shows and appreciate fully restored original cars, they are not for me in any way. I'm not very interested in driving around in my grandfathers old Buick. I was looking for a resto-mod and I found one. Now I need to find ways to get it right. This just doesn't seem to be the place to help.
I have found some other more helpful forums so I'm good.

Sorry, I explained all this a few weeks ago. I will add it to my signature.
The car has a 401 nailhead and dynaflow from a '64 Wildcat. From what I gathered most guys can pick that motor out from a line-up. Sorry for the confusion.

So it looks like this is a new brake booster and double master cylinder. Wouldn't that work for a front disk upgrade? I would want to add a proportioning valve though in the brake line to the fronts though, right?

Okay, this is making more sense. The fronts are probably correct but I'm pretty sure it has a different rear end. I have to admit (and do freely) I don't know anything about "these" cars. For instance, I have no idea what an "open driveshaft" is?
So here's a picture of the rear end and driveshaft but I will try to get pictures of the front and rear drum/spindles later and post them here.