Preferred habitat is dry steppe, areas with sparse vegetation up to 2500 meters in altitude

Live naturally in conditions where food is scarce; thus, they are opportunistic feeders

Herbivores, with a natural diet of grasses, flowers, and leaves

Adult size 5 to 8 inches; juveniles up to 4 inches

Lifespan 50 to 100 years; often much shorter in captivity

Carapace (upper shell) is broad, rounded and flattened; it may have a ridge. This tall shell allows the tortoise to escape deep into the shell. It is greenish brown to black, fading to yellow between the scutes.

Distinguished from other members of Testudo genus (Meditteranean) by a lack of a hinge in the lower shell and four, instead of five, toes on each front foot

Spur at the end of the tail; enlarged scales on the sides of the tail and thighs

Are adapted to live in very hot summers and very cold winters; some wild RTs will hibernate for up to 6 months. They dig very long, deep burrows to hibernate.

Sexual maturity is generally reached around 10 years of age; this varies with enviromental factors.

Up to three clutches, consisting of up to five eggs each, can be laid each year. Egg incubation ranges from 56 to 84 days.

Vent is relatively closer to the back edge of the carapace in females; in males it is relatively closer to the tip of the tail

Females are usually larger over-all, and broader and heavier than males

Females have flared edges on their upper scutes

DIET

In general, should be high fiber, calcium-rich, and low protein

Capable of producing vitamin D3 by exposure to unfiltered sunlight or UVB bulbs; also can utilize vitamin D2 from plants

Should be allowed to graze on grasses and weeds whenever possible

The diet should contain foods with high levels of carotenoids, especially beta-carotene; found in dark leafy greens as well as orange and yellow vegetables

Offer food blended to reduce selective feeding

Human-grade calcium supplement should be blended into the food mix

Fruits should be given in small amounts or not at all

If commercial dried or pelleted tortoise diet is fed the first ingredient should be grass hay

Food should be placed on tiles or dishes to prevent ingestion of the enclosure substrate

Place food at the brighter end of the enclosure; illumination can stimulate appetite

Do not place food under the heat source to prevent it from drying out

WATER

Water, available all the time, should be provided in a shallow, sturdy pan, to allow bathing as well as drinking

Soaking and bathing encourage drinking, urinating and defecating

Allow 10 to 20 minutes bathing once weekly for adults and daily for hatchlings

Bathing tortoises should not be left alone, as they can upend and drown, even in shallow water

ENVIRONMENTTEMPERATURE

Day 70 - 90 degrees

Night drop by 5 degrees

Basking spot 5 degrees higher than highest daytime temperature

HUMIDITY

Relatively low, no higher than 70%

Ideally a gradient in the enclosure from 40% to 70%

Juveniles may require higher humidity to prevent shell pyramiding

Provide a humidity box, to simulate a humid underground burrow; a dark plastic container with a cut entrance and moistened paper towels or moss

LIGHTING

Unfiltered sunlight is the ideal lighting for Russian tortoises. UVB is almost completely filtered by normal glass and plastic; UVB transmissible glass and plastic is necessary

It is not known whether Russian tortoises absolutely require full spectrum UV light when adequate vitamin D3 or D2 is eaten. But UVB lighting improves metabolism and various activities and behaviors for tortoises kept indoors, and we consider it a necessity.

Light intensity decreases by the distance squared, so the UVB source must be close, usually within 12 to 18 inches of the reptile.

The UVB source must be positioned so that the tortoise will be frequently exposed to it; for example, if the light is close to a shelf, but the pet rarely uses that shelf, then the light is inadequate.

Types of UV lights include fluorescent tubes, compact fluorescents, flood lamps and mercury vapor spot lamps; we think mercury vapor spots are best because they produce light and heat.

UV output decreases long before visible light decreases, so bulbs must be replaced every 6 to 12 months, or when UV output drops below 70% as determined with a UV tester

Daily exposure should be 10 to 12 hours minimum.

ENCLOSURE

Russian tortoises will thrive if housed outdoors, if temperature allows. If temperature falls below 40 degrees they should be housed indoors.

Outdoor enclosures should be at least 12 square feet, and preferable 24 square feet (the range of wild RTs is measured in square miles)

RTs are good burrowers and will dig beneath fencing, so fencing must be buried deeply to prevent escape.

An outdoor alternative is to dig hollows in the ground and cover them with boards.

An outdoor enclosure must provide protection from predators, and offer both sun and shade; ideally, it should also offer the opportunity to forage

Fences and walls of an enclosure should be opaque or solid, and enclosure accessories should break up the line of sight, because tortoises will try to move through or over a wall they can see through or over

An opaque Rubbermaid storage container is an inexpensive indoor pen that is easy to clean. Minimum 50 gallons for one tortoise

A clear glass or plastic aquarium or vivarium is not a suitable enviroment for a tortoise

Multiple options for hiding should be provided, distributed throughout the temperature gradient of the enclosure

An enclosure measuring 2' x 4', by 1' to 2' high is preferable

SUBSTRATE

Select a friable, malleable substrate that allows the tortoise to right itself.