B&B Ristorante Restaurant Review

: Tucked away in the back of The Venetian’s Restaurant Row, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s B&B is one of those rare places on the Strip that doesn’t feel like it’s on the Strip. The cozy yet bustling room with Italian marble and dark wood treatments is reminiscent of intimate supper clubs of another era, though contemporary alternative rock fills the air. The flurry of activity between efficient and knowledgeable servers, sommeliers and other floor staff is well choreographed, essential in such tight quarters. The menu includes most of Babbo’s greatest hits, and they didn’t omit the offal offerings for the Vegas crowd either. If there should be one dish to initiate an eater to innards, the warm tripe alla Romano is it, tender in a subtly spicy tomato sauce. For those already comfortable with eating organ meats or those willing to take the plunge, the crispy sweetbreads with shiitakes, balsamic and green garlic fondue is worth the anticipation. Not-so-adventurous diners will find that the simplest dishes are often the best, like the whole grilled branzino served with herb and fennel salad. Another good bet is a giant grilled pork chop with kuri kuri squash purée, Wickson apples and radicchio. The pomegranate ricotta crespelle with limoncello caramel sauce is enough to almost make you wish you hadn’t eaten so much of your entrée. The wine list features plenty of Bastianich’s own label, and wines are available by the glass, quartino or bottle.