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OK I switched wire 5 & 11, that seems to work. Now when I sit on the seat and flip the switch the blade motors will turn on and vice versa. However the drive motor will still not run with the wires attached to the blades on it I have a feeling that either the L Contactor or the clutch switch is defective... The service manual says to measure the voltage across terminals 1 & 4 on the L Contactor, but I am getting -36 VDC. I did test the seat switch with the L contactor and got the regular 36VDC though.

Is the connector with the two wire 12s attached to the other spade on the motor? If not, connect them to it and reconnect wire 3 to the other terminal and try it again. If they are connected, then I'm suspicious that the thermal breaker inside the motor (that's what's connected to the two spade terminals) has failed. You can check it with the continuity (beeper) on the multimeter, touch one probe to one spade terminal and the other probe to the other. Do this test with the wires disconnected from both spade terminals. It should beep. If it doesn't, it is malfunctioning. You can verify that by temporarily connecting wire 3 to the two wire 12s and trying to run the tractor.

The fact that the motor runs at all says to me that the L contactor is operational. The clutch switch must also be functional, or else the deck motors wouldn't run.

I have tried those terminals both ways and get no results. I will check it later for continuity, but is there a bypass or a switch I could add to turn the motor on without having to connect it manually each time? I doubt I can remove the motor to access the internals without breaking the pulley (again). LOL

The two spade terminals on the motor are connected to a thermal circuit breaker. It's purpose is to shut the motor down in the event that it overheats. It does this by interrupting the power to the L contactor. If you discover that the circuit breaker is an open circuit (no continuity) and the motor is at room temperature, then it has failed. If that's the case, you really have only two options.

First, repair the failed component. This would restore functionality as intended, but would require removal/disassembly of the motor. This is the "best" repair, but also the most involved.

Second, is to bypass the circuit breaker. Doing so will allow the motor to run, but without any thermal protection. It would be up to the operator to make sure he/she does not overload and overheat the drive motor. Do bypass thermal breaker, just connect the wire 3 to the two wire 12s. To do this, basically, connect the wires that would have connected to the spade terminals on the motor to each other instead. Do not connect them to anything else, other than themselves.

In theory, you could buy just the thermal breaker and epoxy it to the outside of the motor with a metal filled epoxy like JB Weld (helps with thermal conductivity), and connect the wires to it. It wouldn't be exactly as intended, but certianly better than nothing. The only issue with this approach is that I really wouldn't know what to recommend for a temperature.

Let's make sure that's the issue by verifying that it has failed first, as we may be barking up the wrong tree. I don't think so, but it's always good to verify.