I don't know if this brings anything new to the discussion of our 335d engine issues, but I didn't remember having seen it phrased quite like this. Apologize in advance if this is all old news to you.

1. "I haven't had any issues at all with my one, but then I've only had it for a few months, though it does get used every day - and this is the problem!

Every day I do a shortish journey, not long enough for the car to get up to proper operating temperature, and this apparently is one of the causes of dpf issues. There are ways of getting around this i.e removing the dpf (pretty obvious) but it's something I personally wouldn't do just in case there were any warranty issues."

2. "They are solid but there are a few things to be aware of

The actuators on the turbos can stick leaving no boost. Doesn't cause damage and they are replaced under warranty. Almost all 335ds get this at some stage. Mine were done and the vacuum pipes as I pushed for them to be done under warranty.

The red boost pipe can leak mine never has again a simple fix

As with all diesels the dpf can clog and fail early if you don't monitor temps. If temps are ok they can last 120k

If the engine runs too cold they can fail after 50k

I've monitored temps for the last 2 years and I've noticed them fall from 86, to 83 to 80. This happens as the thermostats gradually stick open letting too much coolant to flow. Again not damaging but if the temps fall below 78c the dpf won't purge, clog up and fail eventually/early. "

3. "As has been said running temperature is important to DPF regeneration, but it isn't the only reason DPF gives issue. A lot of the issue is short runs and incomplete regenerations, or just no conditions to regenerate in daily use.

It is one reason I've gone back to petrol, the times I've overshot on trips, to get a complete regeneration in the 330d, doesn't sit well with me. Anything less than 15 mile trips are not really long enough to suit these engines.

What sort of driving and conditions are you going to be using it? Note that regenerations take place every 300 - 600 miles and need about 8 - 10 miles (once hot) to complete. Winter time that can mean around 10 miles ahead of a regeneration even starting, so 20 miles (at the right time) to keep issues at bay."

I don't know if this brings anything new to the discussion of our 335d engine issues, but I didn't remember having seen it phrased quite like this. Apologize in advance if this is all old news to you.

1. "I haven't had any issues at all with my one, but then I've only had it for a few months, though it does get used every day - and this is the problem!

Every day I do a shortish journey, not long enough for the car to get up to proper operating temperature, and this apparently is one of the causes of dpf issues. There are ways of getting around this i.e removing the dpf (pretty obvious) but it's something I personally wouldn't do just in case there were any warranty issues."

2. "They are solid but there are a few things to be aware of

The actuators on the turbos can stick leaving no boost. Doesn't cause damage and they are replaced under warranty. Almost all 335ds get this at some stage. Mine were done and the vacuum pipes as I pushed for them to be done under warranty.

The red boost pipe can leak mine never has again a simple fix

As with all diesels the dpf can clog and fail early if you don't monitor temps. If temps are ok they can last 120k

If the engine runs too cold they can fail after 50k

I've monitored temps for the last 2 years and I've noticed them fall from 86, to 83 to 80. This happens as the thermostats gradually stick open letting too much coolant to flow. Again not damaging but if the temps fall below 78c the dpf won't purge, clog up and fail eventually/early. "

3. "As has been said running temperature is important to DPF regeneration, but it isn't the only reason DPF gives issue. A lot of the issue is short runs and incomplete regenerations, or just no conditions to regenerate in daily use.

It is one reason I've gone back to petrol, the times I've overshot on trips, to get a complete regeneration in the 330d, doesn't sit well with me. Anything less than 15 mile trips are not really long enough to suit these engines.

What sort of driving and conditions are you going to be using it? Note that regenerations take place every 300 - 600 miles and need about 8 - 10 miles (once hot) to complete. Winter time that can mean around 10 miles ahead of a regeneration even starting, so 20 miles (at the right time) to keep issues at bay."

Engine temperature should be between 85-90 celcius when thermostats are okay.

There are 2 seperate thermostats that should both be changed at the same time, first one is of course the engine main-thermostat and the other one is the EGR-thermostat. Then there is third thermostat if these two don't do the trick, third one to check is the gearbox heat exchanger, but usually this goes after 100000 miles.

Also if you have INPA or some other BMW diagnostic-program so that you can get live-data, you should monitor the exhaust-temperatures because of faulty sensor that gives wrong information about exhaust-temperatures and that also leeds to regeneration fail. I don't remember the sensors location or name but it's common problem at least here in Finland.