Description

A Littlejohn masterpiece and a classic of its genre: long, adventurous, not without a fair helping of loose rock and vegetation. Fortunately, there is also plenty of excellent, exposed climbing on clean, sound rock.

P1. Start up a crack on the left, but quickly break right into the corner. Bridge up this, past several pitons in varying states of decay, to the capping overhang. Trend rightwards through the overhang to less steep ground, and proceed more easily upwards to a stance below a corner. Good nut belay. 25m, 5b

P2. Follow the corner easily, and continue up a crack and the wall above to gain the vegetated ledge, just to the right of a tree. The move onto the ledge requires use of the in situ ivy. Belay on fixed nuts. 25m, 5a

P3. Take the wall above the stance directly to a small roof, tricky but the difficulties are short-lived. A good thread at foot-level supplements the old bolt on the left and rusty piton on the right. Trend rightwards through the steep ground then gain a thin crack on the right. Follow the crack for about 10m until it is possible to trend left across the wall to a 2-piton belay below the main horizontal break. The leftwards traverse is bold, but the holds are good. 25m, 5c

P4. Traverse leftwards to the base of a crack-system. Follow the cracks, in a wonderfully exposed position for about 20m, until a step right into another crack is possible. Continue up this crack/corner (right facing), for another 20m then move left again up blocky ground to gain the top. Belay on trees a little way back from the edge. 45m, 5c.

Location

Start about 15m left of Coronation Street, below a left-facing corner.

Protection

A lot of fixed pitons on all pitches, mostly untrustworthy, but can be backed up. An old bolt on P3 is well past its best. The P2 belay is 2 in situ nuts. The P3 belay is two in situ pegs.