The biggest surprise in Nellie Partow’s new collection wasn’t the sunset-y palette of coral and peach, though that definitely qualified as a first. What felt even newer was the sense of nostalgia. While other designers are mining the ’70s, the ’80s, the ’00s, and beyond, Partow’s clothes have always felt firmly rooted in the present tense. That’s a good thing, and it was true this season, too: The belted coats, wide-leg trousers, and cotton dresses looked like the thoughtful, hardworking pieces women want right now. But Partow’s fans will also be happily surprised by the baja hoodies and “board shorts”—and by how much they want to wear them.

“I think I was feeling a little homesick,” Partow said, referencing her hometown of Laguna Beach, California, which is widely known for its surf culture. “I really wanted to re-create that [feeling of] going home after a day at the beach, when you’re a little bit rosy from the sun.” So she developed radiant, not-too-bright shades of peony and tangerine for sharp suits, collarless dresses, and ribbed knits; even in photographs, the colors seem to emit a soft, diffuse glow—“like the peach undertones in your skin,” Partow said.

Such direct references are new territory for Partow. She pointed out a cropped, zip-up layering piece, loosely modeled after a life vest, and a sandy hand-knit cable sweater, which was streaked with paint to mimic whitewashed wood. She first introduced that hand-painted cashmere technique last season: It entails smearing five layers of paint onto a finished knit, waiting for it to dry, then “breaking it” to reveal the highs and lows. Being entirely handmade and hand-finished, it’s essentially couture, but with a dash of spontaneity.