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If you have never listened to these then you should. Great little speakers for even tinyier money. Have a BUMP on me James

Yes, I rate these too and was using them in my main system until recently. The performance jumps up another level if you replace the inductor and capacitor in the cross over, rewire them, add a bit of sound absorption inside and stuff the ports with drinking straws (total cost ~30 pounds). They stop booming, sound clearer and go about twice as loud.

These sure punch way above their weight. Had 3 pairs at one time but sold one - now running a pair in the kitchen and in the study (the joys of wirelessly distributed music !).
What were the mods that were suggested - can someone post details ?
Thanks

These sure punch way above their weight. Had 3 pairs at one time but sold one - now running a pair in the kitchen and in the study (the joys of wirelessly distributed music !).
What were the mods that were suggested - can someone post details ?
Thanks

I did a short write up here in the middle of a long thread about DIY in general, and so it isn't easy to find:

Thanks - do you know the values of the components you used ? Inductor and capacitor).

Maybe we should start a separate thread on the DIY forum so that the discussion can be found more easily.

I've got the old components in front of me. The capacitor is marked 6.2 micro Farads, 250 W.V D.C, and the inductor is 1.0 mH. So I just rang up Wilmslow Audio and told them I wanted a high quality cap and air cored inductor with those values. The original cap is pretty cheap, and some reports I read suggested you only needed to replace that. But the original inductor has a ferrite core and is also pretty cheap, and it is also mounted co-axially with the coil in the bass/midrange unit which I don't think helps much. My theory is booming bass resonance on some tracks I got before the mods is to do with the inductor rather than being an acoustic problem. The air cored inductor is too large to fit behind the loudspeaker sockets and I glued it with contact adhesive flat onto the foam at the bottom of the speaker with a short length of Chord cable to connect it to the sockets.

You need 1.5 - 2 meters of wire to rewire the speaker as the original wire is pretty cheap and nasty - maybe Wilmslow Audio or another DIY loudspeaker shop could provide that too. I used some packing foam I had lying around to line the inside, and maybe some proper acoustic foam would be better.

Right there is quite a lot of interesting info there, and I found that article along with a few others that I couldn't seem to find anymore with Google this morning when I modified my speakers. My opinion is that replacing the cross over and/or driver is more trouble than it is worth. I think the main problem with the cross over is cheap components and that changing from a simple first order cross over to a complex sixth order one will probably bring in its own set of problems and cost a lot more.

This is where some kind of Wigwam LX5 all comers bake-off would be great fun. We could try different mods and then bring our creations together to compare. They cost bugger all and are still easily available still on eBay I think.