Thea and Justin Deserve to Preen Themselves

It would be a backhanded compliment to praise Preen for a “breakout” collection after fourteen years in business, but it’s time to declare that Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton have finally planted their flag atop the summit “Officially Impressive.” The London couple’s show for spring put forward a seriously accomplished, highly polished range of options that covers day dresses, pantsuits, unfussy evening things, and clothes that, well, aren’t narrowly aimed at an event, but just look like perfect things to put on when you’re going from one situation to another (which most of us would describe as “life,” no?).

One hallmark of their intelligent grip on where and why people would want to wear their clothes is the effortless way they’ve handled length this season. They do neat, short (but not too short) trompe l’oeil dresses with molded skirts and beaded or satin tank tops—a pulled-together, uncrushable look that you can zip on in two seconds. They do slightly longer raised-waist bustier dresses which catch something of the fifties silhouette of last season, but without belaboring the retro reference. And, best of all, they came up with the most desirable mid- and ankle-length pieces so far this season: a sand-colored smocked silk belted dress, and a series of three variations on the Moorish tile-print pleated chiffon they’ve been working with.

Just why these last three were so successful is the result of Bregazzi’s input: She insists that every garment she and her husband touch is thoroughly considered, from both a flattery and function point of view. To wit: the effect of the hip-smoothing yoke on their full, semi-sheer plissé skirt. The opaque section covers the nether region in a cool way, does away with bulk around the stomach, and also prevents any fear of underwear exposure and stray-breeze havoc when wearing sheer, pleated stuff. A definite early entry on editors’ wish lists for the season, that one.