Q: This is the first year I have grown hostas. Is there anything special I need to do to get them through the winter? Also, should I take off the dead leaves now or in spring?

A: Most hostas are very tough and make it through our winters easily. There really is nothing you need to do to help them survive. As for the leaves, you can take off the dead leaves now or in spring, it really does not matter. I actually like to leave mine in place because they serve as a marker for where the plant is located.

Q: What a joy it is reading your column every Saturday! Thank you for all your great advice. My question is about scarlet runner beans. I grew them for the first time this year after hearing from so many friends that they grow quickly, produce well, and are very tasty. I’m afraid I must have done something wrong or planted them incorrectly because they were anything but tasty. They were the toughest beans we have ever grown. What have we done wrong?

A: Thanks so much for your kind words. I doubt that you did anything wrong with growing your beans. The problem is likely when you harvested them. This type of bean has the pods get tough and stringy very quickly, so the tip is to harvest them when they are still young. Pick them when they are small and you will be able to enjoy them.

Q: I have a problem with moss growing along a bed next to a north-facing fence. I was told to lighten the soil by adding coarse sand. Is this a good idea?

A: Infestations of moss are associated with low fertility, poor drainage, too much shade, soil compaction, wet conditions and poor air circulation, or a combination of these factors. Contrary to popular opinion, low soil pH is seldom responsible for moss invasion. Here are some suggestions to keep moss out of the bed:

– Improve drainage: Soils that are constantly wet because of poor drainage should be contoured so that water will drain away from the wet areas of the bed. Adding the coarse sand may improve the drainage, but if there is a lot of clay under the topsoil the bed may still not drain well.

– Add organic matter to the bed: Compost can help improve the fertility of the soil and eventually aid any drainage issues by helping to break down the clay.

– Improve air circulation: Low-branched trees may be the cause of poor air circulation as well as dense shade. Consider pruning if possible.

– Fix the growing conditions: You can use a moss-control product on the area and it will kill the moss, but if you don’t correct the growing conditions it will come back.

Q: I planted three Elijah blue fescue grasses in my rock garden last year, and while they grew OK they did not look very good in the heat of the summer. In fact, there were more dead stalks of grass than healthy ones. What is the problem?

A: Part of the problem is the fact that this grass is hardy to zone 4, so while they may grow here they might not look their best. You can prune the grasses in the spring using a pair of sharp pruners. Cut them back to three or four inches in height. This pruning will encourage new growth, and they should look a little better when the summer comes.

Q: I read your column faithfully and save every one of them. Thank you for all your help over the years. My question is about watering. When should I stop watering my birch trees?

A: Thank you for your kind words. Most gardeners feel that the growing season is over when the fall arrives and stop watering. In reality, watering in some of your plants for the winter is very important for their survival. You should be watering your trees and shrubs (and especially birches and evergreens) from October through until they freeze up. Water deeply by placing the hose at the base of the tree and let the water trickle out slowly over an hour or two. This will allow the water to penetrate deeply into the roots.

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