Which actuator did you replace? I am going nuts with this problem. All vacuum fittings and doors seem to work, but can't get hot air blasting out of the dash vents like it used to. I also recently replaced the blower motor - the old one was cavitating so bad it was causing a noticable vibration.

After 310,000 miles i have had no problems with this thing but it is pretty cold this winter! I am having antifreeze professionally flushed this week. I hope that helps too.

I had a similar problem w/my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix. Like was mentioned above, there is a drain for condensation that drains to the ground. It can get plugged, especially if the vehicle is parked outside under trees (debris drops on the car, eventually working it's way at the base of the windshield). A shop can unplug the drain. In the future, though listen for a gurgling sound. Water backed up to the blower motors and rusted them out eventually, and needed to be replaced. If you are lucky, you'll only need to unplug the drain.

The nice thing about the Venture is that there is a filter. If you take out the filter behind the glove compartment, you might notice a lot of debris above it. Make sure to vacuum/clean all this crud out.

I tried to vacuum them out once or twice, but eventually realized that even though they looked clean, they could be full of dirt -especially the Hepa charcoal filters. To test them I usually just take them out and see if it helps.

If you go online to Rockauto.com, they had a clearance sale on Venture replacement air filters the other day.

I have no heat coming from 2000 chevy venture. Sometimes I can feel a faint amount of barely warm air coming out with the fan on low. Any ideas what could be wrong?I have put a gallon of antifreeze in the reservoir tank over the last 2 weeks. It seemed to help give me a little heat when I filled it to the cool level line, but not now. There are no visible signs of a leak and I don't see any antifreeze on the oil dipstick. The car is not overheating, but the temperature gauge is dancing around a little bit. Just out of curiosity, where is the coolant level sensor? Because I don't know if it's just another sensor in a long line of bad ones that just stays on now forever. Or the coolant really is low. I keep adding it to the reservoir tank so it's going somewhere. Thanks for any help.

The level sensor is in the radiator. If you have to keep adding coolant and do not see any leaks you probably are burning it due to a bad intake gasket. If the system has air in it and not coolant you will be lacking heat. Easy way to see if coolant is seeping into engine look under oil cap for a yellowish goo and/or pull PCV value and see if you see the same. If you do you have an intake gasket failure.

Thanks. Yeah it had the goo just as you described. I'm taking it to my mechanic on Saturday for confirmation and an estimate. What a shame with this car. First the intake manifold gasket goes, and now most likely the head gasket. It would be OK if these gaskets weren't so costly to replace. But the costs are outrageous, and it's all for freakin' GASKETS! Add all the other failures of this car and it spells bye bye for GM for me in the future.

My 2003 Chevy Venture Van is overheating. What's happening is anti-freeze is coming out of the overflow, when heating up the radiator hoses become stiff from possible pressure, fan is not coming on in time to cool the motor, but if I jump them it still overheat.

My heater stopped working about 1 month ago at a stand still, but at high speed it begins to kick out heat. The temp gauge goes down at higher speeds, but at lower speed temp rises. could this be related to the problem?

Replaced the thermostat and the water pump. Help please! Could it be anything else except a busted head gasket?

Did you burp it after you did water pump & stat? If you didn't that;s a simple fix. there is an air bleed screw and maybe two of them? Located toward the top of intake area .. As you turn the small hex of the bleed screw open (counter clock wise) air will come out and when it's solid collant shut it off... I did this years ago there may be 2 burp valves ? look in owners manuals it may be in there ? otherwise go to service manual or go to Library for ALLDATA ask refercne librarian if you never used it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Are you USING any collant ?,,,gotta pay attention to this one. and keep an eye on it overflow bottle if hook up propelry is a good way maybe once check rad to see if it's full.

are you loosing collant externally ? leaks on floor or possibly leaks and burns off with engine heat/Exhaust you would smeel it very likely if this was the case Caps are pretty much the same as a lot of cars swap caps if they are the same don't force it if it don't fit.as you know everytime you open up rad cap you will loose a little collant(( normal.)

Do you have access to a rad pressure tester ? if so on a cool engine hook it up to rad and run engine like normal, if pressure builds over 20 psi and keep building you likly have a head gasket gone.

oTHERWISE IF YOU REPALCE PLUGS AND SEE GREENISH TINT ON ONE IT COULD BE COLLANT GOING INTO CYLINDER.

Collant could get in the oiland cause it to turn milkycollant can also go into the exaust and usually it will make smoke or sweet smell depends on how bad it's leaking..

I change radiator last October and everything works fine except recently fans come on way past the gauge mid (12 o&#146;clock) position. I want them to switch the fans earlier than that.There should be no sludge (there was no sludge back when I was changing the rad, oil is clean, coolant level does not go down.I cleaned all the fun relays and connectors, no difference.I tried to run engine with sensor unplugged, temp gauge showed no temp reading at that time. When plugged back, temp was shown on the gauge.Can anyone tell me if the temp sensor (located beside the thermostat) is an on/off sensor or it actually gives the range signal to power temp gauge on the dashboard? If range, what is the range suppose to be? There is no air in the system.

I am replying to my own message above &#150; this is pretty dead forum!I changed the fan switching sensor (located near the thermostat). This is an on/off sensor switch.Fans come on at the same temperature as with the old sensor &#150; about 2 o&#146;clock on the dial. What else can cause this high switching?anybody? thanks in advance.

I have a 2000 Chevy venture that has a problem with the front blower putting out cold A/C and the rear blows out hot air. I already have the trim panels removed and can see the blower assembly but need further help from there to figure out what is going on. please help.

Venture Thermostat replacement I just checked this link and it is still good. It looks like it should help since it has instructions and some diagrams. I know this is for a different year, but I doubt the thermostat has been moved.

I own a 2003 chevy venture and I am having trouble with the fan. When I have the settings set on vent and the heat turned to max and the fan to number 5 setting very little air flow comes out of the vents. As I turn the heat control to the cool setting the air flow increases. Max. air flow is when heat control is set to max. cool setting. Why?

You can hear that it is switching from cold to hot, and when you put your hand on the vent you can barely feel the hot air coming out. I then turn the temp to cold and you can hear it switch and it flows out pretty good...(almost too good).

When trying to drain the radiator on my 2000 chevy venture, the valve just turned and turned with no coolant coming out, Then the whole valve suddenly came out completely. When I put the valve back in I cannot tell if it's actually secure as there are no threads or anything. It actually looks like a plug with an O-ring on the end.

Is this what it is supposed to look like or did I break something off of it when initially trying to unloosen it? If it's normal how does it stay in?

I just bought a 2003 Chev Venture from an Autobody shop. They had fixed all the problems and got it safetied. I have the paperwork and everything. One thing I noticed when I'm driving the van...

When I'm driving long periods, the heat is working, very slowly...... but when I'm driving short periods. I get no heat, even when I stop at the lights, the heat cools off and it feels like it's blowing A/C. Mind you, I live in Winnipeg and it'll get dang cold in the middle of winter. Considering it's almost Nov and it's getting colder. I was wondering if this is an easy fix that my hubby can do? Or is this a normal thing??

check coolant level, in Radiator FULL and proper level in overflow bottle as well. make sure hose connects overflow to radiator cap,

,,check or replace rad cap 14 or 15 lbs, or swap with another car

You must have 50/50 fluid ,,protected to like 40 below F.,,,i am from MN and it get cold here as well.

there is also a burp screw on top of the manifold to let air out. open it and when solid fluid comes out close it. look at owners manual i believe it tells you about it

other than that the thermostat is not that hard to replace in case it's stuck open when done need to burp it.

Can you feel the hoses going into the heater core ,,,is one very hot like you can touch it for a second and you must let go and the other cool ?

I can't recall what changes it from hot to cool,,is it cable operated ,,,gotta SEE FEEL , TAKE APART stuff underneath until you get to the air blend door to see if it's moving fully from hot to cold all the way.

I personally went a junk yard and took one apart.1st. then took mine apart for water leaking into operator AREA from air conditioning,, i could get all they to the heater core it was not hard but a bunch of stuff needed to come out and GO BACK IN The SAME WAY

put a temp gauge in the a/c vent outlet and have it blow out at operator like you would on A/C it should at least 140-150 degree F it is just sitting there the stat could be good

do the cooling fans run when you turn on A/c ?

are the cooling fans on all the time, i assume you don't have the rear coolant heater option

ned help with my 2001 venture had the problem of no air no heat fixed the air flow was dirty filters in your glove compartment almost fixed the heat problem believe there was air somewhere in system so we got some out got heat 2 days later no heat but even when i had heat for 2 days my defrost would not throw heat i have looked all over for answers if i flush the system would this work [also already changed thermostat] to get the air out cause i have cold/warm air when im driving or giving it gas in park need help its frezing and my kids said they rather walk little warmer in the sun lol

Did you look in ownsers manual? Is there a code on for check engine lightCollant leve in rad has to be up and the overflow tank needs to be at proper level KEEP an eye on the leve every time you open the hood of lack hot air.I would syas you need to bleed the one or two screws on top of the engine ( to purge the air and get a solid stream of collant ,,and it should be a 50/50 mixture, once you do that then make sure the system is full again.I would look in my owners manual but i's not handy and or look under the hood to see if there are two blled screws or just one, I think tow and they look alike. as i recall you loosen them with engine running and collant and air come out (it's easier if you do not remove them completley) that should help you out.I didcovered the problem when i changed my stat. <<<also feel the hoses especailly to and from the heater core if one is hot and the other cool it could be a heater core issue,, I assume you have a working cable ( i think that adjusts a door form hot to cold) this is likley not the answer i you had temp heat for 2 days..unless you moved the air blend door in conjusction as to wehn you had heat....Heat in my vneture gets very hot needs to be turned downafter you get going, and seems very hot in summer and my CD's a very hot to the tocuh. SUPER HOT almost to the point you don't want to tocuch them. Not sure if that is heat related however.~~lots of luckIf you can't find bleeder screws ask a mechanic type person or if needed write back, sorry for the delay,

Did this harness problem relate to the blower motor resistor problem? I have some of the same problems in the same van. Passenger side window will go down from the driver side but not up. The drivers side window seems to have intermittent power problems. The heat only works on 4,5,6 nothing on 1,2,3. Should I be replacing the blower motor resistor first or going after this wiring harness on the driver side?

I have experienced the same problem on my 05 venture and living in rural Manitoba I understand what cold is. I replaced the cabin air filters in the glove box and the air flow is much better (but still cool). I spoke with a mechanic and he indicated that replacing the filters is a waste of $$ as it is the same air we breathe as soon as we step outside the vehicle. His suggestion - throw them out and do not replace.

Now I am looking at replacing the either the T-stat or possibly the heater core as I have air flow but insufficient heat. However I cannot find a schematic to show me where these items are located. any other advice or direction is much appreciated.

you know you might be wasting a lot of time and $ if you don't burp the engine 1st.. After replacing stat or doing any any engine coolant related work YOU MUST URP the baby otherwise it has air on top and the collant doesn't circualte just air and some collant, there are plugs on top of the engine, they need to be loosened up till you get solid fluid and I believe there are Two of them ,look at owners manual or go to library for free acess to ALLDATA. IF you find out excatly how to do it please publish it for others.

FYI I tore my dash apart ( due to a/c water leaking inside cab) and heater core is is a job to get to ,,nothing difficult just time i did not remove it however, not sure how easy it will be to remove & RE-INSTALL HEATER HOSES TO THE HEATER CORE in the engine comprtment side. GOOD LUCK

I doubt the blower motor resistor problem is directly related to the wiring harness problem.

I would replace the blower motor resistor first if for no other reason than to quickly fix the problem and move on the next issue with your van. It sounds as if you can get around the wiring harness for now.

I had the same issue with the fan only working on certain speeds. First, 1 quit working, then 2. Before I could figure what was going on, 3 had quit working.

The most difficult part of replacing the resistor is accessing some of the screws. The resistor is located inside the blower motor housing under that dash on the passenger side. The price of a new resistor is between $35 and $40. The new resistor is much better protected than the old one.