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Category Archives: Anti-aging skincare

Does your “peach fuzz” bother you? Does your skin look dull, flaky, or dry? Is your make up not going on smoothly? If so, I would like to invite you to book a dermaplane facial treatment today! Using a sterile and disposable surgical blade, layers of dry, flaky, dead skin are gently scraped away with light, feathery strokes. This exfoliation will also remove the soft vellus hair that traps dirt, oil and make up on the skin’s surface. The old wives tale that “shaving” will cause the vellus hair to grow back thicker or more coarse is untrue of this specific type of hair! Dermaplaning is a safe and beneficial alternative to waxing, threading, chemical peels, and microdermabration. And, it is suitable for all skin types including ethnic, pregnant, sensitive, and rosacea. During the month of August, enjoy this treatment for only $55.00 (Regular price $75.00)

We have a new laser at Utah Dermatologic & Medical Procedures Clinic! Although it’s already popular throughout Asia and Europe, we are only the second clinic in the United States operating the QX MAX system. It performs a number of services including; melasma treatment, acne scarring treatment, sun damage (brown sun spot removal), “no downtime” wrinkle treatment, inflammatory acne treatment, deep pore cleansing and toning (laser facial), and tattoo removal.

I have two years laser tattoo removal experience working with the MedLite Hoya system. The Fotona representative explained to me the difference between the QX MAX and the Hoya MedLite is that there is no loss of power from the laser as the tattoo lightens. I experienced a plateau in treatment many times with the Hoya system, the tattoo would get light and then just seem to never fully go away as the patient paid for treatment after treatment. The QX MAX system is supposed to deliver power no matter how light the tattoo gets for a faster removal process. Since this system is brand new to our office, I don’t have to experience to compare the two laser systems on my own, but I’m hoping the QX laser does what the company claims. The patients we have treated four weeks ago are seeing visible fading and it will be exciting to see how well the laser continues to deliver those results as their tattoos get lighter. For general information on pricing, please call 801-281-0022. Consult information available at UtahTattooMD.com.

For the month of February, the esthetics special for The Spa @ UDMPC is the new deep pore cleansing laser facial with the QX MAX system! This treatment is quick, only 20-30min, with no downtime! When you come in for the treatment, we will have you wash your face with Infusing Cleanser. Then, in the treatment room, your facial skin will experience two different settings on the laser. The first setting will stimulate collagen and clean out blackheads. I can literally see a plume of smoke come from the blackhead as the laser light hits it! After cleaning out dirt, make-up, dead skin cells and oil from the pores, the second laser setting shrinks them back to their original size. Your laser facial is then finished with application of Wrinkle Relaxer Serum, Resveratrol Age Defying Cream, and Colorscience Sunforgettable SPF 30. If you have a sensitive skin type that cannot bear traditional extractions without injury or are prone to bad reactions from regular facials, this could be the perfect treatment for you. This is a manly enough treatment for you guys that want great skin too, we know you like tools! It may take a series of treatments to arrive at desired results, you can do one every four weeks. Try the laser facial while it’s on sale this month for only $75.00 (regularly $100.00)

Eyes are among the areas on the face that are most concerning to aging clients. The delicate skin that surrounds the eyes often becomes dark, puffy and wrinkled as time passes. However, with the help and recommendation of spa professionals, the proper eye creams and serums featuring the latest in anti-aging ingredients, can be obtained by clients.

When recommending a solution to skin aging around the eyes, consider using products in the treatment room and retailing products in your boutique that feature advanced formulas that include highly concentrated blends of the most potent anti-aging peptides and moisturizers. Following are several anti-aging ingredients to look for in an eye product.

Peptides

Argireline. Argireline, manufactured by Lipotec, is the brand name for acetyl hexapeptide-3. It is considered by experts to be one of the best needle-free alternatives to Botox. Argireline has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth, especially around the forehead and eyes. This was proven in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2002. In this report, it was demonstrated that a cream containing 10% acetyl hexapeptide-3 used by healthy women volunteers reduced wrinkle depth up to 30% after 30 days of treatment.

SNAP-8. The anti-wrinkle octapeptide SNAP-8, manufactured by Centerchem, is an elongation of the hexapeptide Argireline. It is well-known that the molecular mechanism involved in facial aging is directly related to changes in the conformation of the collagen triple helix, degradation of the elastin polypeptides and certain disorder in the packing of the lipidic matrix of the skin. It has been clearly established that these conformational changes and the disturbance of the perfect packing of the lipid matrix can be significantly avoided by modulating muscle contraction.

Haloxyl. Haloxyl, manufactured by Sederma, also known as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, reduces puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. This peptide works by encouraging proper circulation in that area. Essentially, studies have indicated that Haloxyl reverses the fluid buildup that naturally occurs while sleeping. Eyelid swelling is a common cause of puffiness and dark circles. Accordingly, when you lie down, gravity causes fluid to accumulate in your lower eyelids. Haloxyl counteracts this effect by increasing the lymphatic drainage by 85% in clinical studies.

Eyeliss. Eyeliss, manufactured by Sederma, is a proprietary combination of three active peptide molecules that are designed to rapidly and effectively reduce puffiness and bag volume under the eyes by more than 70% upon application. This biomolecular-engineered solution was discovered as a result of sensory perception screening tests that were specifically designed to treat puffiness under the eyes.

Matrixyl 3000. Matrixyl 3000, manufactured by Sederma, contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR, which act in synergy to restore and maintain skin’s youthful appearance. Matrikines are messengers of cutaneous restructuration and repair. They activate the neosynthesis of extracellular matrix macromecules, thus providing Matrixyl™ 3000 with a visible anti-wrinkle efficacy. As messenger molecules, these matrikines are capable of regulating cell activities. More specifically, they interact with specific receptors to trigger the stimulation of certain genes involved in the process of extracellular matrix renewal and cell proliferation.

SYN-Coll. SYN-Coll, manufactured by Pentapharm Ltd., stimulates the collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts. Skin aging—and in particular, chronic UV exposure—leads to degenerative changes in skin. This is characterized by distinct alterations in the composition of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM). The consequences are manifold, such as increased skin fragility, leathery skin appearance and formation of wrinkles. Collagen represents the main component of the ECM of the dermal connective tissue. Thrombospondin I (TSP) is a multifunctional protein that activates the latent–but-biologically inactive form of TGF (tissue growth factor). TGF is known as the key element in the synthesis of collagen and binds to a particular sequence in the TSP molecule.

Moisturizers

Red and green seaweed extract. Natural seaweed extracts found in the Elite Serum™ work to target glycation and preserve the skin’s natural collagen. In in vitro tests, the ingredient was shown to inhibit skin-degrading enzymes and the glycation process. Glycation is triggered when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in the skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme. The resulting glycation process impairs the functioning of biomolecules, which weakens the skin structure at a cellular level, leading to a less firm surface and a greater tendency toward wrinkling.

Pure hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is the key for maintaining water substances in human skin. Due to aging, natural hyaluronan concentration in the skin decreases at an alarmingly increasing rate throughout time. Accordingly, the skin’s ability to maintain moisture is weakened, and it gives the appearance of being dry and rough. When hyaluronic acid is applied back to the skin, it penetrates the dermis, combines with water, and promotes microcirculation and nutrient absorption. It forms an air-permeable layer to help keep the skin moist and smooth. The result is rapid skin rejuvenation, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, crow’s-feet and other cosmetic signs of age around the eyes caused by sun exposure, smoking, stress and other common factors.

I read an article yesterday that said AHA’s were bad for your skin. This of course made me cringe because of my love for AHA’s and how they can improve the skin, but I kept on reading. The article said to avoid AHA and other peeling / lightening / bleaching agents because they make your skin more sun sensitive. This is true. Because of the dead skin cell exfoliation hydroxy acids cause, the newer skin cells that exposed ARE more sun sensitive. This is why every good esthetician will insist that you use a mineral sunblock and for the most part keep the sun’s rays off skin being treated with aggressive skin care products.

During the summer months, if you are into biking, golfing, hiking, swimming or any other outdoor activity and worry about gaining more hyper pigmentation, my advise would be to lay off of the glycolic moisturizer and cleanser. Discontinue use of serums, creams, gels and masques containing retinol, hydroquinoin or any other beta or alpha hydroxy acids. Switch to products with natural brightening agents such as vitamin C, mulberry, bearberry, licorice and enzymes from pineapple and papaya. These ingredients will brighten and nourish your complexion without making your skin more sun sensitive. Of course always use a mineral sunblock and reapply every two hours. Switching up your skin care routine keeps your skin energized and customizing your skin care routine keeps your skin protected throughout the seasons.

Which one is better? The answer lies within your skin type and lifestyle.

Dark skin type

I do not suggest micro/macroderm or chemical peels for Fitzpatrick skin types V- VI. These darker skin types are at a higher risk for possible hyperpigmentation from the treatment. If you are a Fitzpatrick type IV- VI, I suggest starting in your home with a medical grade skin care line that has alpha hydroxy acids. For professional treatments start with enzyme peels or the herb peel. Gradually, your skin will create a tolerance for stronger treatments.

Acneic Skin Type

I prefer using salicylic and glycolic type chemical peels because these acids help slow skin oil production, lighten pigmentation, dry up active lesions as well as encourage skin cell turnover. However, some of my clients do not feel comfortable with the flaking of skin you can experience 5-7 days after a chemical peel. With consistent treatments macrodermabration can clear problem skin, and without any visible downtime. Because waves of acne tend to come every four weeks, I suggest booking your appointment every 28 days for best results.