Making a splash in Mexico

Monica Zurowski, Postmedia News12.11.2011

A chalk rendering of a whale pays homage to the humpbacks that visit Puerto Vallarta's bay each winter.Monica Zurowski
/ Postmedia News

An aerial view of downtown Puerto Vallarta. Millions of tourists come here every year to paraglide, scuba dive, whale watch, swim with dolphins or just sit on the beach and drink margaritas.Handout photo
/ Mexico Tourism Board

Puerto Vallarta is runner-up to Cancun as Mexico's most
popular resort, and its Banderas Bay is just the third largest in
all of Mexico, but for a heady...

When a whale announces its presence, it's a hard thing to ignore. There's usually a giant splash or two, a huge exhalation through the whale's blowhole, and excited shouts from anyone lucky enough to witness such a spectacle.

This was certainly the case on our last trip to Mexico, as a perfect day of snorkelling drew to a close just off the shores of Puerto Vallarta.

The seven-hour catamaran tour we'd taken had been flawless. Our Vallarta Adventures boat went to Las Marietas, a group of uninhabited islands home to dozens of bird species and types of marine life.

The Mexican government once used these islands for military testing and bombing, but international protest in the late 1960s - initiated by noted biologist Jacques Cousteau - eventually resulted in the area becoming a protected park.

The islands have also now been named a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, due to the myriad of coral, fish, bird and mammal species found here.

As we took in the islands' rocky beauty, thousands of birds could be seen. Blue-footed boobies, squawking seagulls and swift swallows filled the land and air.

The bird watching was followed by sea kayaking and snorkelling.

We jumped into the crystal clear water as colourful fish darted around us. The occasional sea turtle and giant manta ray also occasionally grace these waters.

The next stop came at a secluded little beach, with time for sunning, swimming and beachcombing.

The day had been ideal, we decided on the way back to the mainland, as dolphins popped up alongside the boat, much as they had throughout the day.

Our guide explained that if we were visiting a couple of weeks later, we might have spotted a humpback whale or two, as well.

The humpbacks arrive in the warm waters of Banderas Bay each December and stay until the end of March, largely to reproduce and give birth.

The guide was busily pointing out different types of dolphins when his tone changed. "Do you want to go see some whales?" he shouted, seemingly as surprised as we were.

In the distance, he'd spotted six of the behemoth mammals, each weighing about 36 tonnes. It was the first whale sighting of the season.

Our boat caught up with the whales (with the captain steering the boat a respectable distance away), and we saw five males showing off, trying to capture the attention of the lone female in the area.

They jumped, breached, splashed, slapped and bumped into each other. Everyone on the boat stood mesmerized by the spectacle.

Best of all, the whale sighting was a complete surprise - something that Puerto Vallarta still delivers.

For first-time and repeat visitors, the destination continues to serve up surprising delights.

I strolled through the heart of the old town on a recent visit, remembering some of my favourite things from a vacation years earlier, such as the cobblestone streets and the often-photographed cathedral.

A new display, however, quickly caught my attention. Dozens of chalk murals formed a temporary art show on the pavement, injecting a punch of colour into the classic beauty of the town.

Next up was the malecon, the well-known promenade along the beach.

A statue of a child on a sea horse still stands, as it has since 1976. But not far away, groupings of new statues also command attention, turning the 12-block malecon into an impressive art walk.

Artists have coaxed and shaped stone, steel and bronze into an amazing array of sculpture, including high-backed chairs that morph into creatures and the double helix of DNA, intertwined with frogs, a lizard and an octopus.

Another newer delight can be found north of Puerto Vallarta. Here, the Riviera Nayarit has blossomed to become one of Mexico's emerging hot spots, dotted with all-inclusive hotels, secluded hideaways and dozens of beaches. There's a resort for every taste, whether you're looking for the ultimate offerings in activities and sports (check out Paradise Village) or escape from reality (try Dreams.)

As we arrived at the Riu Palace Pacifico, we discovered a white jewel of a resort sparkling on a golden beach.

The food, the decor and the pool were remarkable. But even more delightful was the friendly service, with more than a dozen waiters learning our names while we were there.

A walk down to the beach led to a discovery of sand dollars, an assortment of other marine creatures and even a couple of baby sea turtles.

Pods of dolphins also swam by each day, usually around 10 a.m., often coinciding with the morning yoga and stretch class on the beach.

Course staff are professional and helpful, while the rates are reasonable, too, compared to other courses in the area.

Other activities in the Riviera Nayarit also provide welcome and surprising diversions. You can glide from tree to tree during a canopy tour; escape into the mountains with a Sierra Madre adventure; discover local flea markets; or explore colonial villages.

The country's tourism board was recently using the marketing slogan of "Mexico: The Place You Thought You Knew." After spending a week in Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit, it's easy to see why the phrase rings true.

Info on Riu Hotels and Resorts can be found at riu.com, while details on golfing at Flamingos are at flamingosgolf.com.mx.

The Wonders of Mazatlan A few years ago, a Mexican tourism organization and media outlet began a contest searching for the 13 man-made

wonders of Mexico. After 1.5 million votes were cast, Mazatlan won a coveted spot, largely for its development as a port city. After gold and silver were discovered here in the 1700s, Mazatlan developed one of the country's most important harbours to export the precious metals. Today, the destination offers a wealth of treasures for visitors:

Shrimp: They're fresh, juicy and abundant, and the star of dozens of gourmet dishes across the city.

Beaches: Mazatlan's beaches are some of the widest in the country. When surf's out, you can seemingly walk forever in gentle waves and tidal pools.

Pulmonias: Translated to pneumonia, these open-air golf-cart vehicles are tons more fun than the usual taxis found at most destinations.

Parasailing: This is the hot spot for the sport, which makes you think that perhaps man really can, or should, fly.

The Fountain of Eternal Youth: This

historic building was once the beststocked pharmacy of early times, with a chemist developing a potion called the "Goddess Venus." Wealthy people travelled here to buy it, since it was said to restore lost youth. Today, people come to see the historic architecture, museum, galleries and a restaurant.

Landmarks: Other "don't miss" landmarks include a historic lighthouse, a glorious malecon, art centre, theatre, cathedral and town market.

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