I got the brake working, you were right Jim. Stepping on the brake pedal a few times helped to get the wheel to turn in both directions. All I did with the brake was take it apart and cleaned up the discs and steel balls with scotch brite, sand paper and a little brake clean. I didn'tlubricate the balls or anything else. I wasn't sure if I should or what to use.

Now that I had the wheel spinning I moved on to look at the engine.

I unscrewed the plug at the bottom of the oil pan and only a small amount of water came out, the rest was oil.I then pulled the valve cover (pic below)

With the valve cover off and the plug from the oil pan out I thought it might be good to try and flush it out a little with somediesel so I did and some nasty looking stuff came out. I then filled it with some 10w30 oil with the valve cover off to get some oil on the valves and shaft assembly.

With the spark plugs out and some more mystery oil in the cylinders I decided to see if I could put it in gear and get it to turn over with the wheel still being blocked up. And with much relief all cylinders turned. I'm glad its not seized.

One thing I noticed while I had the valve cover off is that some of the valve lifter rods are bent and not lined up. Another pic

So how do the valve lifters attach and how hard is it to replace them?

Eric85 wrote:Some of the valve lifter rods are bent and not lined up. So how do the valve lifters attach and how hard is it to replace them?

To replace the push rods loosen the nut on the rocker arm and back up the screw. You can use the valve tappet adjustment sequence to obtain a bit more clearance during push rod installation. If that doesn't provide enough room to remove (simply lift out) and install push rods, loosen the entire valve train assembly.

Tonight before dark I pulled off the exhaust manifold and looked inside at the valves. Things didn't look good. There was 3 or 4 that had a lot of rust on them. I sprayed them all downwith mystery oil and put things back together. I figured I would let them soak for a day or two.

If you can turn the engine over you can watch the valves go up and down and see if any are stuck. Now that the valve cover is off... Those pushrods could have been bent for a long long time.

If your goal here right now is to hear it run again, you can "redneck it" to a certain extent without causing issues.

Look up a channel on youtube called "ElderlyIron." The latest several videos show how the host resurrects a 389 cubic inch V8 engine. A lot of it applies to your situation. He goes through checking compression, freeing stuck valves, rebuilding the carburetor, and by the end he has that old engine running pretty good, all without a complete teardown.

Tough question. Hard part is to accurately measure each part and determine a course of action. Second part is do you have the mechanics tools to accomplish the task?

Where is a good place to buy the rebuild kit from?

Engine parts are available from your local auto parts store, implement dealers, and numerous catalog/online dealers. Rebuild kit - Do not purchase any parts without knowing exactly what you need and specifications.

Also are there any good books/manuals that shows a good step by step process on rebuilding one of these engines?

Try your local library first. Any number of reference sources are available - some great and some very bad. Suggest obtaining the parts and service manual for your tractor. The parts and service manual are a must have.

Before you dive headlong into an engine overhaul, find out if it's really necessary. You'll learn a bunch just tinkering with the engine to see if you have a runner. Get the valve train straightened out and do a compression check.

I think your right Matt, I have to find out if I can make it run or not with out doing a engine rebuild.

I am thinking about at least pulling the valve lever and shaft assembly then pulling the head. I figured this way it would give me a closer look inside and I could clean up the valves with the head off. I would also drop the oil pan at this time.

I'm pretty good mechanically but this would be a first for me. I do have a service manual that my dad bought a few years ago fromJensales and have been studing it some.

Eric85 wrote:I am thinking about at least pulling the valve lever and shaft assembly then pulling the head. This would give me a closer look inside and I could clean up the valves with the head off. I would also drop the oil pan at this time.

Start spraying the valve stems above the valve guides with quality solvent. Once you get the head off you will need to remove the valves. Then you can inspect each valve and seat.

Plastigage each bearing when you remove the pan. This will tell you the clearance on the main and rod bearings and give you some indication of the journals condition. Plastigage has gone up in price, guessing $4- for a stick of .003 - .006. Back side of each bearing insert will indicate it's size.

It looks like this project might have to wait till the spring time. We have over a foot of snow now. But I'm wondering what I'll need to get for tools and parts to pull the head and remove the valves. Are there any specialtools i should get?

I don't know of any special tools. You will need a new head gasket and maybe a valve cover gasket. There is a hold down bolt in the middle part of the valve lifter assembly that has a hole drilled up through it for an oil passage. Don't lose it or re-assemble it in the wrong place.

Are you asking about bearings, rings, pistons, ei internal parts?If so are you close to a CaseIH Dealer? If not call Ken Updike at Carter.&Gruenwald, co-sponsors of this websitewith the #s you posted and he will get you the right parts.