Comments: This felt quite hard to me. It's a ledge fall from the second bolt, but the clip is easy if you step a little right to get in balance. I did not and was pretty out of balance. The third bolt was hard to clip, and the move there was hard to figure out. There I took my only unplanned leader fall in 39 years or so of self belaying onto my Silent Partner. It still works after 10 years of use. (Yes, there are planned lead falls. My only other fall onto the Silent Partner was planned when I let go wit... more >>

Comments: Two cruxes, a hand jam move with not much for the feet midway, and a high step over the roof at the top. Good rests before each crux. There's a "10A" scratched in the rock at the base, presumably by the first ascent party.

Comments: I believe this is called BR 2 in the D'Antonio guide. I enjoyed this, but perhaps I'm way more tolerant than others of sketchy rock. The overhanging pockety (but sandy) rock at the bottom was cool looking and fun to climb. If I was trad climbing, I would have wrapped a long sling around the semi detached pillar near the top, at the roof. We went around the roof on the right, not realizing the route was meant to climb the roof. After going around the roof on the right it felt pretty silly steppin... more >>

Comments: I attempted to lead trad and self-belayed the corner to the roof between Skimbleshanks and Old Deuteronomy. There was no gear to the base of the corner (big cams might work). Good gear can be arranged at the base of the corner out right and a few feet higher in the corner. Another few feet higher I got a small RP sideways on the left wall. My feet were a few feet above this when I bailed, with hands a couple of feet below the ceiling on the right wall. The climbing was easy, maybe 5.8?, palming ... more >>

Comments: I was never able to lead P2 despite trying several times. I'd get half way up or so and then angle one way or the other (don't remember) to live another day. P1 is fun, steep and juggy, with some gear, and worth doing on its own.

Comments: The top half of this was quite good and a little run out. The bottom was a bit decrepit. We climbed it as shown in the photo here. There are other possibilities further left. The photo in the D'Antonio guide is not clear. At the top, we moved right to the bolts above Don't Ask rather than walking off as described above.

Comments: When I led that pitch maybe 9 years ago, I was carrying my descent shoes clipped to the back of my harness. I was half way up the chimney and looked over to the side, and there was one of my shoes. It had come unclipped but somehow wedged itself in the chimeny.

Comments: Of the routes on this lower right wall of Bihedral, I enjoyed this the most despite the somewhat chossy rock. It climbed like a trad climb and felt a bit airy. We traversed left to the Tinnitus anchors rather than scrambling way up right to the Release the Kraaken anchors.

Comments: Loose Rock Warning: I took a short fall yesterday when I almost pulled off a 18" x 4" x 4" block on P2. I let go of the block (good instinct), fell, and grabbed the rope (bad instinct) and burned my hand a bit. The loose block is on P2 in the left-slanting, right-facing corner/ramp. This is just above the two close-together bolts above some easy trad climbing and just left of a 2-bolt anchor. I held onto the block, which seemed to be an integral part of the rock, as I pulled into the corner from... more >>

Comments: Lenny Miller and I repeated this yesterday and did the route exactly as described by Leo. It's really hard to decide where to go--the route wanders and attempts to force you to climb hard bits here and there. Most cruxes can be easily avoided. My partner Lenny thinks the upper parts of this route are Black Elk, a route described in Bob d'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guide (which I don't have). For me, the move near the top through a short flare to a tiny tree was the crux. The lower crux through an ... more >>

Comments: I did this for the first time yesterday, self belayed. I thought it was very exciting and airy. Maybe as a 5.7 climber I wouldn't have enjoyed it as much. The only loose rock of any significance is the block you hold onto (lightly) as you step left to the V. I don't know what the "tons of loose rock" comments refer to. Once you have stepped left, you are pretty run out (assuming you didn't put any gear in the red band), and you have to work to stay calm and fiddle some gear in. There's a very go... more >>

Comments: I had a hard time with this today. The start is not "good finger locks" as stated in the description, at least not for me, and I don't have sausage fingers. I could only get half a tip in at most until my feet were on that horizontal about 9' off the ground. Doing the hand crack up the left side of the block, my right hand got stuck, and I almost came off. Pulling on the block was scary. It seems solid, and looks real solid from above (at which point you can't see the narrow base). The runout ab... more >>

Comments: The face off the ground between the two Follies goes on TR at about 5.9 or maybe harder if you can't make some key reaches. The holds are surprisingly positive and mostly big. This can lead to the thin crack variation or the variation described by Tony.

Comments: As of today. the pin a little ways off the ground is loose and moves about 1/4" up and down. Don't count on it. Instead, there is an excellent 0.5/purple Camalot just below it and various good gear around the corner.

Comments: This felt very easy. Big and positive holds all the way. Frequent rests. The last moves at the top to the new anchor on the right seemed to be the crux for me, but even there you are in balance, and just have to figure things out. Much easier than Left Over Stuff for me.

Comments: The Levin guide says to step out left after the crux and up the flared "fist crack". Then back right, but how far right? The climb is confusing in that you can climb left, straight up, or right. Straight up is definitely not cheating (and that's why I haven't done it that way), but left or right feels like cheating.

Comments: The rock seemed totally solid to me, but it does look bad. The first half of the route is relatively easy, but then it steepens. Fortunately, although it's a bit of a a cheat, you can step left or right at various points for good rests.