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if theres no fluid in it,,easy just take to 2 bolts off and pull it out

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I had the motor tested off the plow and the shop said it was in v-good condition so since the pump was the only thing left, I replaced it and changed the fluid.. easy fix other than the $200 for the pump, yuk... back on track and works like a charm, ready for the next snow..

I had the motor tested off the plow and the shop said it was in v-good condition so since the pump was the only thing left, I replaced it and changed the fluid.. easy fix other than the $200 for the pump, yuk... back on track and works like a charm, ready for the next snow..

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What is different after the change? Did it solve any symptoms you were previously experiencing?

I ran the driveway last night for a test pushing back berms, been so cold here the snow has been frozen soild and tough on the plow so will wait for melt or another snow... but did get to work the plow enough to purge the lines and get fluid level corrected...

I ran the driveway last night for a test pushing back berms, been so cold here the snow has been frozen soild and tough on the plow so will wait for melt or another snow... but did get to work the plow enough to purge the lines and get fluid level corrected...

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So you replaced the pump, and haven't subjected it to conditions that caused your original symptom. The plow seems to function identically to how it did before for short durations.

Next time it snows, bring your jumper cables..............

Here are my thoughts quickly. If the pump had so much resistance that it was causing undue strain on the motor:

1. There is no way it also would have had enough power behind it to lift the blade with all that extra resistance, it would have stalled out.

2. It would have killed the motor due to excessive heat and load.

I don't think your problem is gone, unless you solved it inadvertently while replacing this part.

Hope I'm wrong for your sake, let us know after you've used it for a storm.

Based on what? He replaced a random part on a hunch, with no testing. He took the motor off and had it tested, instead of testing the thing as a whole, which might have told us something partly conclusive.

There was no reason to think that the pump was bad, besides a hunch based on symptoms that point more strongly to a bad ground somewhere he hasn't found yet. (alternator to block for example)

How would you explain, if the pump was causing such an excess load on the motor, that the plow still lifted, and the motor did not overheat?

If the charging system is working 100 percent, and the battery is draining, all that energy has to go somewhere. It would have killed the motor.

So what's your logic for thinking that the pump was bad, and that the new one is fine?

BTW, I don't care if I'm wrong, I want the OP to have his truck functioning normally and not break down, and I don't think the problem has been solved yet.........

Based on what? He replaced a random part on a hunch, with no testing. He took the motor off and had it tested, instead of testing the thing as a whole, which might have told us something partly conclusive.

There was no reason to think that the pump was bad, besides a hunch based on symptoms that point more strongly to a bad ground somewhere he hasn't found yet. (alternator to block for example)

How would you explain, if the pump was causing such an excess load on the motor, that the plow still lifted, and the motor did not overheat?

If the charging system is working 100 percent, and the battery is draining, all that energy has to go somewhere. It would have killed the motor.

So what's your logic for thinking that the pump was bad, and that the new one is fine?

BTW, I don't care if I'm wrong, I want the OP to have his truck functioning normally and not break down, and I don't think the problem has been solved yet.........

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John,
you remember the electrical measurements you made and posted in the other thread?

Would it be possible for you to repeat those tests-only this time, do them with the truck running, and have a partner (that you trust) hold the plow at full angle (either way is fine), running up against the relief valve? Make sure they don't accidentally go the wrong way and pinch you against the bumper........

No need to take the first measurement (truck not running), but post the other 3 when you get a chance.

He said he couldn't turn the pump by hand but could with pliers. So that tells me that the pump is HARD to turn. But still does. So if he's playing with the plow its Gunna drain the bat. And the alt ain't Gunna be able to keep up with the drain. Im sure the motor got warm,,,,but what's the spec for temp on a plow motor?

He said he couldn't turn the pump by hand but could with pliers. So that tells me that the pump is HARD to turn. But still does. So if he's playing with the plow its Gunna drain the bat. And the alt ain't Gunna be able to keep up with the drain. Im sure the motor got warm,,,,but what's the spec for temp on a plow motor?

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John,
Is the new pump significantly easier to turn than the old one?

To compare you'd need to ensure they are both full of oil, so you'd have to take the motor back off.

I don't recall on my unimount that I ever tried to turn the pump, but I wouldn't be surprised if you can't turn it by hand.

If it turns easily, and far different than the old one, I might jump on the "it's fixed" bandwagon. But I don't think it will be.

lets say that there was a restriction in the pump (just agree for now this will help with where im going)
now, since I never got an answer to the pump psi this is where im basing my fact.
the motor don't know that there is a restriction, neither does the pump. so when you raise, its trying to spin and the pump is working but theres resistance.
if the pump is worn and not making full psi, your going to overwork the heck outta the motor everytime to get the plow to respond
now you can electrical test 7 ways to sunday and it will only tell you that there is excessive draw. the motor will get hot, and the batt will go dead and the alt will barely keep up. just b/c the motor gets hot doest't mean its shot.
every plower uses there stuff till it wont work anymore. im betting that he used it till the batt ran dwn to no volts and the alt just couldn't put enough back it.
you also got the volt test answers,,,but never got the amp test answers (as far as I know an on the tk test never was done)

lets say that there was a restriction in the pump (just agree for now this will help with where im going)
now, since I never got an answer to the pump psi this is where im basing my fact.
the motor don't know that there is a restriction, neither does the pump. so when you raise, its trying to spin and the pump is working but theres resistance.
if the pump is worn and not making full psi, your going to overwork the heck outta the motor everytime to get the plow to respond
now you can electrical test 7 ways to sunday and it will only tell you that there is excessive draw. the motor will get hot, and the batt will go dead and the alt will barely keep up. just b/c the motor gets hot doest't mean its shot.
every plower uses there stuff till it wont work anymore. im betting that he used it till the batt ran dwn to no volts and the alt just couldn't put enough back it.
you also got the volt test answers,,,but never got the amp test answers (as far as I know an on the tk test never was done)

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I brought the motor to an electrical shop and after inspection and draw test of 60 amps they said the motor was fine. Now, the old pump I could not turn the shaft without putting a wrench on it to turn.. The new pump I could spin the shaft with my fingers.. Basically the old pump is seized-up... so going about this all backwards; I just placed an order for a clamp-on DC amp meter for the tool box... I will then be able to test the plow motor draw for lift, right and left turn... when it warms up, I will pressure test also just to see what i get,