There are 2x15mm bolts holding a small mount that need to come out. This is where the long 18mm bolt that goes through the motor mount attaches to. Now, remove the 18mm vertical bolt that's up closer to your cruise control. Pull the unbolted motor mount torward you, flip it downward and pull straight up and out. Might have to move the AC lines a bit, no worries.

As for the lower mount, this one is even easier except it requires you to remove the front passenger tire as well as lower shield. Remove tire. Using a 10mm socket, remove 2-3 screws (that's how it is for my '03). You'll also find 2-3 push pins that secure the shield/splash guard to the body. Once that's out of the way, you'll see your motor mount/belts. It's pretty self explanatory after that.

Oh and btw, though I bet you already know this, make sure you have a jack (on a block of wood) supporting your engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kawizx9r

Not going to take extra pictures for you (too cold outside) but here are some old pictures of mine to give you an idea;

Here's a close-up of a broken motor mount I had. No, the mount wasn't out of place when it broke. I simply swung it out to show that the rubber around it completely broke off. Anyway, the picture is of the 2x15mm bolts you need to undo. The 18mm bolt you need to remove is cut out of the picture, but it's straight up where the motor mount begins.

Here's the lower one with tire and splash guard off. You can't see the first bolt holding the mount but here you can see the second. Again, self explanatory and easy to remove.

Leanna, if you Google in these words: PTCruiser Motor Mount Repair, then you'll come to a list of different motor mount (strut) repairs. As you go down the list, you'll see a number of PT Cruiser Forum posts. Open each one and read them. You may have to go to the second page to get more info.

When you feel confident, do the work. It will probably take more than a few minutes. Make sure you support the engine (front of it only) before you remove the the upper mount (you already did the bottom one, right?). But just raise the front of the engine--and just a smidge ... just enough for support.

According to some posts, removing the headlight may make it easier to extract the old upper strut. Personally, I'm going to try to just scoot the A/C lines toward the fender ... not a lot, though. If I can't get the strut out, then I'll go through the procedure of removing the headlight.

When the upper motor mount is removed (to include the small metal bracket it bolts onto via 15mm bolts as shown in my picture), simply pull it torwards you, rotate the front (big end) down as if torward the ground and pull it straight up. You won't even need to touch the AC lines, it comes out easily.

Top motor mount should take you as much as it takes to unbolt 3 bolts.

Kawiz, I'm going to do my upper strut as soon as I post this. I hope it's as easy as you say. One thing, though: the manual says to adjust the lower and upper struts once you have the good ones in. I'm just replacing the upper strut, so I won't remove the splash shield unless I have to make the "119mm adjustment".

Kawiz, I'm going to do my upper strut as soon as I post this. I hope it's as easy as you say. One thing, though: the manual says to adjust the lower and upper struts once you have the good ones in. I'm just replacing the upper strut, so I won't remove the splash shield unless I have to make the "119mm adjustment".

The video shows a PT Turbo--which has all the room in the world to pull up and out, the top strut. The A/C lines are way out of the way. There are also some non-turbos that have the A/C lines routed further towards the fender. My 2003 Limited is ... neither.

A few years back--while still under warranty--the dealer had to replace almost every feature of my A/C system--including compressor, condenser, lines, drier--whatever. This was necessary due to small metal particles that contaminated the system (so the dealer said, and I didn't care because all the work was free). However, they routed my lines above the upper strut in such a way that I cannot remove the strut, unless, of course, if I were to push the A/C lines all the way over to almost touching the fender. I will not chance that.

I just attempted to pull the top strut and the problem was not so much the strut, but the anchor bracket attached to it. The strut/bracket was simply too wide. I turned and twisted and tried every way I could to get the room I needed--and it simply was a no go.

So next Saturday I'm going to go ahead and pull the headlight and pull the strut through the hole. Call me chicken, but I've worked in many a tight spot on a number of cars--and this is one where I realized that sometimes you just gotta be conservative.