The controller is hacker ready. It was originally a special request item from a member. But word of mouths are making it becomes more popular so I had to make a few extra to meet the demand.

These are newly hand assembled Infineon 6 FET controllers I am selling, they are new and never used. It is originally designed for long distance commute in the San Francisco area. It is also best to be used on electric bikes with smaller wheels such as those 16" to 20" wheels found on most folding bikes & scooter style ebikes for more speed. For those who owns battery packs with 10-15Ah in capacity this is the controller for you to avoid getting the battery management system circuitry (BMS) tripped or experience power protection shutdown enabling due to insufficient current flow (low discharge rate) available from the battery and low amperage designs in most 10-15Ah capacity battery packs.

The controller is like a wolf in sheep's skin because it is under tuned in order to optimize for long range. There are lots of potential and features you can unveil and twist as you go. You can program functions such as enable power regeneration, regenerate braking, pulse width modulation, low voltage cut-off, interface with a Cycle Analyst, and others. You may also add an USB to TTL programming adapter and connect to the computer for tuning. (Electronics knowledge is required to unleash the potential however)

One unique feature on this controller is that it has an additional speed sensor circuitry built-in with an extra wire embedded for output. It is to be used with the scooter style electric bike and electric scooters that have a speedometer in the dashboard.

If you look carefully in the photos, you will notice this version also uses lock washers to secure the MOSFETs internally and the heat transfer bar outside to place tension against a nut after tightening. It is also to help prevent the nut from loosening. The MOSFETs will get overheated and damaged when detached from the heat-sink which used to be the case from the previous designs.

* For hackers, you may double and possibly triple the current output to make it a mighty wonder by adding braids wires (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062744),add solders to beef up the circuit board traces and shunt. It may also be needed to upgrade to larger capacitors, gauge wires for both the battery and the phase wires to the motor.

Best motors to use:200-500w geared motorsE-BikeKit 6x10 motor due to high torque & low current

Below is the specification:Model: EC-064110-LYEN EDITIONStart immediate controllerChipset: XCKJ8B116A (same chipset being used as in the 18 FET controller)Circuit board version: EB206-A-36 x genuine IRFB 4110 MOSFET N-CH 100V (tested up to 110V before damage) for more information about the FET, click the link below:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRFB4110PBF-ND36-60V battery optimized (for higher or lower voltage & current such as 24V, 60-100V, you may need to change the resistor network to avoid damage to the LM317 linear voltage regulator)20A is the current rate at 72v or 25A at 48v (for higher current, you may need to beef up/reinforce the trace, shunt, and reprogram it via the software)Low voltage cut-off: 29VBattery and motor phase wires gauge size: 12AWG (High voltage capable wires equipped)Dimension: 4.53" x 2.63" x 1.38" (115mm x 67mm x 35mm) plus mount extensions

I have only 50 made since I am busy working on my other ebike projects. My intention for selling at such low price is to share the fun with other ES forum members instead of making them jealous. I finally understand why Methods mentioned the cost of labor is steep after all this and I have to agree with him from now on. These controllers are not generic controllers. I have every single one serialized. Quantity is limited, buy it now and upgrade later once your piggy bank is filled up if needed.

$79 USD free ground shipping in the United States & Canada. For other locations, please PM or email me at LYEN@HOTMAIL.COM. I accept PayPal, cash or money order. The controllers will be shipped out from me in San Francisco, California, USA. I will provide a tracking number and ship it out as soon as I have received the fund.

For only $10 more, I can include the the following:1. CA connector2. Regenerative enable/disable (Enabled simply by connect the wires together without the need to open the case)3. USB-TTL 5 pin connector (for use with the USB-TTL adapter that is sold separate)

I also have the USB-TTL adapter for adjust and alter the controller settings on your computer. It has the extra 5 pin plug and a "SEND" button. It is also compatible with Windows XP/Vista/7 32/64 bit operating system (real 32/64bit drivers). $15 with purchase, $20 if purchase separately.

Got my controllers in today and spent a few hours removing the old ones and hooking these up. Have a slight throttle problem with one of my lines reading high so that the controller doesn't start up. I can get around that but I need to fix it before I start tweaking the controllers.

What are the low and high limits that these controllers read for valid throttle voltage so I can adjust what mine are outputting with some resistors?

Just so it's clear, the problem is with my hacked throttle, and not the controllers.

GrayKard wrote:Got my controllers in today and spent a few hours removing the old ones and hooking these up. Have a slight throttle problem with one of my lines reading high so that the controller doesn't start up. I can get around that but I need to fix it before I start tweaking the controllers.

What are the low and high limits that these controllers read for valid throttle voltage so I can adjust what mine are outputting with some resistors?

Just so it's clear, the problem is with my hacked throttle, and not the controllers.

Gary

Hi Gary, the throttle voltage should not be more than +5v. May I ask what kind of throttle are you using or hacking? The it a hall effect throttle or if it simply a resistor POT throttle such as those being used by the Currie style & Magura 5K type? If the later is the case, then you can simply add a 4.7k resistor in between. Please let me know if it helps.

Lyen wrote:Hi Gary, the throttle voltage should not be more than +5v. May I ask what kind of throttle are you using or hacking? The it a hall effect throttle or if it simply a resistor POT throttle such as those being used by the Currie style & Magura 5K type? If the later is the case, then you can simply add a 4.7k resistor in between. Please let me know if it helps.

It basically creates a two in one throttle so you can avoid a ground loop when running one throttle into two controllers. The problem is that it throws the the voltage off between the two halls as one is further from the magnet. I need the minimum and maximum threshold voltage to which the controllers will respond.

The controllers Methods was using were two 18 fet 100volt 100amp models and he lists their thresholds as this:

Off voltage:Threshold: 1.2V

WOT voltage:Threshold: 3.14V

Do you think that would be the case with the 6 fet or do I need to do some testing to find the right values?

Let me know if you want to move this discussion to my build thread instead.

Lyen wrote:Hi Gary, the throttle voltage should not be more than +5v. May I ask what kind of throttle are you using or hacking? The it a hall effect throttle or if it simply a resistor POT throttle such as those being used by the Currie style & Magura 5K type? If the later is the case, then you can simply add a 4.7k resistor in between. Please let me know if it helps.

It basically creates a two in one throttle so you can avoid a ground loop when running one throttle into two controllers. The problem is that it throws the the voltage off between the two halls as one is further from the magnet. I need the minimum and maximum threshold voltage to which the controllers will respond.

The controllers Methods was using were two 18 fet 100volt 100amp models and he lists their thresholds as this:

Off voltage:Threshold: 1.2V

WOT voltage:Threshold: 3.14V

Do you think that would be the case with the 6 fet or do I need to do some testing to find the right values?

Let me know if you want to move this discussion to my build thread instead.

Gary

Hi Gary!

The threshold should be identical as you have mentioned with the 18 FET controller since they both are using the exact same ECU and same designs on the throttle portion of the circuitry.

First, please allow me to thank you for your expedient delivery of product!

Second, I ran into a blocking issue with the Prolific USB-Serial Drivers. Though they would install, when connecting the cable I received an error Code 10 which equates to Ã¢â‚¬Å“unable to start deviceÃ¢â‚¬Â. After some frustrating minutes, searching I came upon a workaround:

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.

I'm glad you have received the two controllers. There is a better driver for the USB-TTL programming adapter. I have just PM you the link to download.

It's also good to know you have found another work around with another driver for it. Thanks for the info.

Best Regards,Edward Lyen

Kingfish wrote:Greetings

First, please allow me to thank you for your expedient delivery of product!

Second, I ran into a blocking issue with the Prolific USB-Serial Drivers. Though they would install, when connecting the cable I received an error Code 10 which equates to Ã¢â‚¬Å“unable to start deviceÃ¢â‚¬Â. After some frustrating minutes, searching I came upon a workaround:

I received my controller in a timely manner and the packaging was great!

Had some problems initially with the driver for the programing cable (Lyen sent me the correct one) and with a broken wire in the USB part (Hint: open the USB covers and look for broken wires at the soldered joints).

These problems were exacerbated by an old computer that chose this time to konk (slowly) out.

Anyway, Lyen's customer service is impeccable (even after I told him about the broken wire and that I had fixed it, he still sent me a new cable) and I'm a happy camper.

Larry Barefield

Last edited by snath on Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

snath wrote:I received my controller in a timely manner and the packaging was great!

That's where my good experience with the Mini Monster ended.

I wanted to program the unit to meet what I deemed to be my unique needs but to my dismay, the software that Lyen sent me wouldn't load and the USB device driver was incorrect.

Now I profess my ignorance with computer programing/software troubleshooting but it doesn't seem to me that it should be this much of a problem.

After one email exchange, Lyen never responded; and perhaps, rightly so because I am, at this point, out of my depth and, he did say that "electronics experience is required". However, software that won't load and USB drivers that don't work seems to be a little much.

Long story short, I ordered a Kelly... their software seems to be designed for the non-programmer and, more importantly, seems to work.

Larry Barefield

Dear Larry Barefield,

Please accept my apology for not responding your last private message since June 28th. I have to admit I missed it due to overwhelming messages. I also have to clarify the one email exchange was only a request to send you the link of the program and driver on 6/26/2010. The rest of the communication were via private messages on the forum.

Anyway, here was your last private message:

Sent: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:20 pmby snathHi Edward,

Thanks for the tips but am not quite to the implementation point.

I have the software loaded but have a couple of questions:The examples populate the template but when I select a controller model from the pull down menu the template does not automatically fill. I can however, operate the pull down boxes and select values. Is this normal?

The other problem I'm having is that my computer won't recognize the USB driver. It seems to load ok but maybe it's because I'm running Windows XP Professional. Or, maybe I need to move the driver somewhere?

I hate to take up a lot of your time. I feel that I owe you lunch maybe in the second week of August when we are out for our son's wedding.

Thank you,Larry

Here are the answers to your previous questions.1. You are correct that the pull down menu does not automatically fill. It is normal to select the values manually.2. The driver from the link I emailed you back on 6/26/2010 does contains drivers for Windows 2000/XP/Vista/Win7 on both 32bit and 64bit versions. May I ask the symptoms that received? Do you get an exclamation mark under the device manager in Windows?

Again, I am very sorry for that. I should take you out for lunch instead.

Let's continue the escalation via email since this is a sales thread. I have sent you an email as of 7/8/2010 @ 11:48pm PST to continue to escalation process. I appreciate it.

Been a while since this thread has seen anything, but thought I'd update that this controller is still working for me on DayGlo Avenger, first with a 9C 2807 and a couple of different NiMH packs, and now with a Fusin geared hubmotor designed for 36V, running on a 48V Vpower LiFePO4 pack. viewtopic.php?p=352003#p352003In case anyone else needs to use it for such a motor, the combination I found for phase and halls is:Phases and halls are the same:

Fusin LyenB GG YY B

Wiring BB YY GG will work, too, but it runs backwards. If you have the version with no freewheel, this is fine, but if you have the freewheel version it won't move the bike.