Recommended products/routine for dark metallic/pearlescent Audi's

If there is an optimal colour group to work with in the world of car care, then dark metallic/pearlescent colours has to be it. Not only do such colours easily yield highly reflective, incredibly wet looking finishes with terrific clarity and depth, but they are also fairly forgiving and far easier to maintain than solid dark colours. Unsurprisingly, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and most last step products will produce good results. However, we believe it is always better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a synthetic sealant basecoat topped with natural carnauba wax layers as the protective system on dark metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because the sealant basecoat cross-links to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that enhances reflectivity and flake pop, while the subsequent layers of natural carnauba wax maximise colour intensity and gloss. The overall effect of this two stage approach is to produce a beautifully balanced finish that enhances the look of the metallic/pearlescent flake whilst simultaneously jetting the base colour. In our opinion, there is little point paying extra for a metallic/pearlescent colour unless you are going to properly show it off in this way!

Our favourite sealant and wax combination for producing optimal results on dark metallic/pearlescent colours is a basecoat of Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection topped with multiple coats of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax. Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity, and sharpens up the look of metallic/pearlescent colours brilliantly. Further benefits afforded by Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, which makes it ideal for use as a basecoat for subsequent layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax. The addition of multiple layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax over a basecoat of Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection adds a rippling liquidity and intense vibrancy to dark metallic/pearlescent colours that is on par with the finish produced by bespoke high-end waxes costing thousands of pounds; it is a deeply impressive product that has few, if any, serious rivals at the same price point. If your budget is too small to stretch to the Blackfire combination outlined above, then an excellent second choice is a basecoat of Poorboys EX-P Sealant topped with multiple layers of Poorboys Natty's Paste Wax Blue. This duo delivers a rich, warm looking finish with a high level of gloss and no muting of the metallic/pearlescent flake, and offers excellent value for money.

Given the above, here is the optimal routine and products we recommend for use on dark metallic/pearlescent colours (assuming all work is to be done by hand)...

To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Menzerna 203S in conjunction with Lake Country German CCS Light Cut Pads. Working small areas at a time using moderate pressure should enable you to correct a reasonable amount of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish in conjunction with Lake Country German CCS Polishing Pads. Working small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to partially hide any remaining defects and maximise the gloss in just a single attempt per panel. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will yield very good results, it will require a reasonable amount of elbow grease!

Of course, if you are feeling flush and want to take the quality of the final finish further, you could always add Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax over the top - this will add extra wetness and gloss, and can be bought either on its own or as part of a kit, details here for the wax...

Hi Simon, all of the pads are now back in stock, and tomorrow we will have Snappy Pad Cleaner in the polish section of the store, which is ideal for tackling tougher residues, such as that left by the Gloss Enhancing Polish. :icon_thumright:

Layering the sealant adds more wetness and clarity, but does not impart a thick looking gloss over the finish (best shown off in the last image above). To achieve a thick looking gloss a wax topper is always required. :icon_thumright:

I 've got the blackfire polish and paint protection from yourselves and I'm interested in the blackfire wax as well but I wash my car roughly every two weeks and after I always put the paint protection on the car. Now do I need to do this every time or am I using too much product? and if I bought the wax and used it would I have to reapply it after I use the paint protection if you see what I'm getting at.

Love the blackfire products but even if I don't drive my car for a week after I've cleaned it all it takes is a couple of rain showers to leave it covered in dried up dust circles then I've got to clean it again.

Generally speaking, you should aim to wash every 1-2 weeks, and apply fresh protection every 8-12 weeks or so. Both the Blackfire protection products are very durable, so there is no need to be applying them every few weeks, unless you want to - and if you do, this is fine, as you can't overapply them; all that simply happens is that the level of protection and gloss increases. Do you find that the dust marks disappear after the wash/dry? If so, there is no need to reapply protection or do anything else, unless you want to. Another option to consider for quicker routine maintenance after washing and drying is the Deep Gloss Spray Sealant - this boosts the sealant/wax, but is a lot quicker to apply, and also helps to ensure no water spots are left after drying off. :icon_thumright:

I recieved my 'Blackfire Wet Ice Over Fire Shine Kit' this morning from PB! Fantastic service, packaging and delivery!! I will definately be ordering from you guys agin!! Keep up the good work!! :icon_thumright:

My new Phantom Black S3 doesnt arrive until late Oct/Early Nov and this will be my first attempt at detailing a car!! My poor Clio has been washed 3 times in as many years so I'm determined to wash this weekly and top up the protected evenry couple of months as recommended!

Having read through the guides and recommendations on this forum I decided to buy the above kit, but I am slightly unsure of what applicators are used with which products in the kit.

If you are doing this on a new one, Id suggest that before you spend any effort that you start from scratch (pardon the pun) and go through PB 's guides re claying.The paint will believe it or not be in perfect shape from the factory!If youve got the blackfire kit, it would be a waste not to prep the car before, cos the results are sensational.I have it on my phantom.Just to make sure...you havent been conned into the dealer paint prtection scam of supaguard etc??If so cancel it now!!.Dont forget your two buckets with gritguards, lambswool mitt, and drying cloths!!

If you are doing this on a new one, Id suggest that before you spend any effort that you start from scratch (pardon the pun) and go through PB 's guides re claying.The paint will believe it or not be in perfect shape from the factory!If youve got the blackfire kit, it would be a waste not to prep the car before, cos the results are sensational.I have it on my phantom.Just to make sure...you havent been conned into the dealer paint prtection scam of supaguard etc??If so cancel it now!!.Dont forget your two buckets with gritguards, lambswool mitt, and drying cloths!!

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Thanks mate,

I cancelled the Supagard about 2 weeks agao after doing some reading about it! I was gonna wait until the car arrives, if it feels like it needs claying I will do, will be another first for me!

I also purchased teh advanced car wash kit from PB so all the wool mitts etc. I have!

Have you got any answers to my original questions regarding teh different applicators?

I reckon you will need some extra pads. I have this kit and the round yellow pads soon became fully soaked with the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, so I got some of these for the Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax.

The round yellow pads are for applying the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection and Midnight Sun Ivory Carnuaba Paste Wax respectively. Do make sure you use as little products as possible to get the job done, as otherwise the pads will become soggy and saturated, as stated above. The towels are for buffing off all of the products - if you need anything extra, its usually more towels (you can never have enough, and Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towels are the nearest equivalent in our store). :icon_thumright:

Rich; re the polish stage to remove minor swirl marks and light hologram effect can i go with the Menzerna 203s to do both? Im thinking of buying a machine polisher(nothing too fancy) so what pads would you recommend and still go with 1 -2 passes per panel?
Im thinking of using AG Ultra Deep Shine followed by the HD Wax to seal and protect it. Do i need to add the SRP in too prior to the Deep Shine?
Many thanks for your advice

If there is an optimal colour group to work with in the world of car care, then dark metallic/pearlescent colours has to be it. Not only do such colours easily yield highly reflective, incredibly wet looking finishes with terrific clarity and depth, but they are also fairly forgiving and far easier to maintain than solid dark colours. Unsurprisingly, it is not difficult to achieve an excellent finish on such colours, and most last step products will produce good results. However, we believe it is always better to work with the characteristics of the paint rather than against them, and for this reason we recommend using a synthetic sealant basecoat topped with natural carnauba wax layers as the protective system on dark metallic/pearlescent colours. This is because the sealant basecoat cross-links to form an exceptionally smooth, highly dense surface layer that enhances reflectivity and flake pop, while the subsequent layers of natural carnauba wax maximise colour intensity and gloss. The overall effect of this two stage approach is to produce a beautifully balanced finish that enhances the look of the metallic/pearlescent flake whilst simultaneously jetting the base colour. In our opinion, there is little point paying extra for a metallic/pearlescent colour unless you are going to properly show it off in this way!

Our favourite sealant and wax combination for producing optimal results on dark metallic/pearlescent colours is a basecoat of Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection topped with multiple coats of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax. Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection delivers an intense wet looking shine with excellent reflectivity, and sharpens up the look of metallic/pearlescent colours brilliantly. Further benefits afforded by Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection include terrific ease of use and excellent durability, which makes it ideal for use as a basecoat for subsequent layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax. The addition of multiple layers of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax over a basecoat of Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection adds a rippling liquidity and intense vibrancy to dark metallic/pearlescent colours that is on par with the finish produced by bespoke high-end waxes costing thousands of pounds; it is a deeply impressive product that has few, if any, serious rivals at the same price point. If your budget is too small to stretch to the Blackfire combination outlined above, then an excellent second choice is a basecoat of Poorboys EX-P Sealant topped with multiple layers of Poorboys Natty's Paste Wax Blue. This duo delivers a rich, warm looking finish with a high level of gloss and no muting of the metallic/pearlescent flake, and offers excellent value for money.

Given the above, here is the optimal routine and products we recommend for use on dark metallic/pearlescent colours (assuming all work is to be done by hand)...

To correct swirl marks and other light to moderate defects (fine scratches and etching) on your car, we recommend a two stage process starting with Menzerna 203S in conjunction with Lake Country German CCS Light Cut Pads. Working small areas at a time using moderate pressure should enable you to correct a reasonable amount of the defects present in just 1-2 attempts per panel. Any remaining defects should then be partially hidden and the overall finish refined with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish in conjunction with Lake Country German CCS Polishing Pads. Working small areas at a time using light pressure should enable you to partially hide any remaining defects and maximise the gloss in just a single attempt per panel. You should be aware from the outset that although this method will yield very good results, it will require a reasonable amount of elbow grease!

Of course, if you are feeling flush and want to take the quality of the final finish further, you could always add Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax over the top - this will add extra wetness and gloss, and can be bought either on its own or as part of a kit, details here for the wax...

Just picked up my beautiful S5 and it had lifeshine done by the dealer...question is though, was this a waste of time as I see there are some comments here not to have bothered having it done. Also, whats the best way to really shine it up as my 3.2 A3 in the really shiny black colour looks so good polished, i want that on my phantom black S5 (is there a big difference in the two types of black?)

Just picked up my beautiful S5 and it had lifeshine done by the dealer...question is though, was this a waste of time as I see there are some comments here not to have bothered having it done. Also, whats the best way to really shine it up as my 3.2 A3 in the really shiny black colour looks so good polished, i want that on my phantom black S5 (is there a big difference in the two types of black?)

Thanks
Andy

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Sorry for the delayed reply, I've not been on in over a month due to us being so busy this year! As you suggest, the Lifeshine isn't really worth much, but as a base it will be fine to add more products too to get the look you want. My advice would be to top it with Blackfire's Midnight Sun Paste Wax (linked above) for extra gloss and protection. As the images above show, Phantom Black can be made to look awesome with Blackfire products, so I'm quite sure you'll be delighted if you choose to go down this route. :icon_thumright:

HI can you advise if you sell a kit which has all the items suitable to get a great shine and appearance on a phantom balck audi? Thanks

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Hi Hayley, yes, we do now offer various Blackfire kits to help people buy everything they need in one go. The kit that includes the polish, sealant and wax described above can be viewed on this link...

Hi Hayley, there is no way to properly answer your question properly without inspecting the car. You would think that brand new cars would be contaminant free, but in our experience many come covered in filings and fallout due to the way they are transported from the factory to the dealership. My advice would be to test the paint asap in the following way: wash and rinse your car thoroughly and then run your fingertips over the wet panels. Clean paint should feel perfectly smooth (if your fingertips aren't particularly sensitive you can magnify your sense of touch by putting your hand inside a thin cellophane wrapper first). If you can feel rough spots or a gritty texture then unfortunately your paint is affected and it would be sensible to use a clay bar before moving on to the polish and protect stages. If you want to read up more on surface contamination and how best to deal with it please see this guide...

I just wanted to say how useful and also, how much I have enjoyed reading all your car care advice on your website.

Whilst I have always kept my cars in failry pristine order I am relatively new to the detailing scene. I hope to achieve at least some of the results mentioned in the section on dark pearlesecent paints. As I am a bit of a rookie I have decided to try the Poorboys Blackhole Glaze & Blue Natty Paste. In addition to this I also have the Wheel Sealant and the Super Swirl remover that I plan to use on the front apron and possibly the bonnet if I like the results. Pending my first few attemts I will ultimately be looking to move on to the Blackfire range or possibly the Raceglaze range of waxes.

At the moment I start prepping the car by spraying a dilute of Autoglym Clean All over the entire car before pressure washing off and washing with Autoglym Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo (with gritguard and mitt).

Apart from the obvious do these sound like reasonable steps to take before polishing with a regular Autoglym trade Superglym polish and can I go straight from the polish stage to the Poorboys glaze and then wax?

I understand that I am missing out the claying stage but maybe I will give this a go later on at some point. Also, is it necessary to have a sealant in between the Blackhole glaze and waxing as I have read this is not necessary?

If you don't agree with the Clean All phase pre wash of what I am currently doing what would you recommend instead? I have a Karcher and have toyed with the idea of the snow foam application.

Can anyone reccomend a polish or restorative product for the chrome trims around my windows? They are starting to look their age, and have lost a bit of sparklyness, unlike the rest of the car.
If I could get them like new again they'd compliment the rest of the car and I'd be able to stop staring at them.

Can anyone reccomend a polish or restorative product for the chrome trims around my windows? They are starting to look their age, and have lost a bit of sparklyness, unlike the rest of the car.
If I could get them like new again they'd compliment the rest of the car and I'd be able to stop staring at them.

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Because these have a laquer over the chrome finish (I suspect), you can treat miuch the same as paintwork to some extent, just depends how bad they are and if the laquer is damaged and actually discoloured the chrome finish beneath may have been attacked, which is maybe what you are seeing.

Because these have a laquer over the chrome finish (I suspect), you can treat miuch the same as paintwork to some extent, just depends how bad they are and if the laquer is damaged and actually discoloured the chrome finish beneath may have been attacked, which is maybe what you are seeing.

I have also used Mer on german paint in the past and have always achieved pretty good results with it. If I had to pick fault, the only thing I would say is that the dusty residue can be a little heavy at times but that could well be down to application.

depends on what pad you are using mate but aslong as the pad is microfibre or the soft foam(megs) and its clean then it doesnt really matter mate, you dont need to apply lots of pressure as you are applying the product not working it in so make sure you get good coverage of the product on the panel then bobs your uncle fannys your aunt

If it's one of the Blackfire hand pads mentioned then I'd apply the wax with the softer side. If you push your thumb into each side one should feel softer. I haven't used one of these but do have a german applicator pad (red/white, or it was at some point lol!) and I use the softer red side for waxes and the harder white side for polishing. Providing the pad is clean neither side will mark your finish but the softer foam helps spread your last step product without applying too much pressure (if any). The stiffer side needs a bit of pressure to mould to the contours and imho lends itself to polishing duties.

If it's the Blackfire gloss enhancing polish you have then IMHO it looks a very similar product to the black hole. Both are non abrasive (according to the site) and both contain fillers to help mask swirls so the two could be interchanged in your cleaning process. It will be down to which you prefer using or the look of, it's down to trying it out to see which you prefer. Then the sealant and wax, nattys blue will be fine

If you can give it a tar treatment too. I always use Tardis before I clay mine (twice a year) then wash again and set about with various waxes/sealants. Didn't used to bother only claying, but was amazed on what a difference tye Tardis made! The claying process is a lot easier (less contaminents) after a good Tardis stage too.

Just bought '09 A3 cab. 16k miles in Pearl Black. Already noted how much easier it is to keep nice and shiny than previous car which was a swine and easily scratched, a solid black Honda S2000.
Claybar to lower panels then old fashioned Simoniz wax (pale yellow tin) shines the Audi fine, but amI wasting my time if car is lacquered? There are some microswirls but not too noticeable yet would like to remove them by hand but scared of scratching the paint. Also suspect that the Peral finish could be made more obvious.

Just placed a big order (for me anyway) taking advantage of your 3 for 2 on Gyeon and added blackfire; Any chance you could get delivery processed asap please? Going away Thursday PM and want to take the gear with me to detail my car properly.

Can you also confirm if the Gyeon clay lube needs diluting like it suggests and if so, how much?

Started buying the stuff this morning, but there is almost too much choice.

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