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Spira International Dory Build

Okay, so I figure I will start a thread of my build so that I will be properly motivated to finish it. After all, what is more humiliating than failure in front of an internet filled with total strangers?

Anyway, I hope that the build is easier than posting pictures here. I'm having a heckova time with that.

[IMG][/IMG]
Looks like I may have solved that one. If I can figure out how to make them smaller, I will...
But after a couple of hours of build time, I got all the pieces for the frames cut. I have 100lbs of nice stainless hardware in the shop, but my mail order epoxy hasn't arrived yet. So, all I have are pieces.

Although I did assemble the transom with some pocket hole screws:
[IMG][/IMG]

One deviation from Spira: the sculling notch.

Here's an innovation I thought I'd share:
[IMG][/IMG]

It's a scarfing jig. For making consistent 12" cuts in my 1x2 stock. I'm sure a lot of skilled wood workers can make that cut the same every time. Then there's me. The jig seems to work pretty well.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

The frames I can assemble in the subterranean shop. But there's no way to wiggle a 16' dory out of my basement, so the actual build will have to take place in the garden level shop. Which is what I just started calling the garage. Unfortunately, something's gonna have to give in there first:

[IMG][/IMG]

If I can get the strongback built before she gets home from work tomorrow, I'm sure she'll understand.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Sorry all - I have been quite busy with multiple projects. My kids go to a small Catholic school that relies heavily on volunteers. While all of them have their unique abilities and skill sets they bring to bear on the work that has to get done, not too many of them can swing a hammer. So most of the construction/fabrication/repair work gets done by me.

And Kevin - good point about the snow. We're looking at a foot or more coming tonight, so that would be about 200 square feet less snow to shovel.

But I've found time for a little progress on the dory. The five frames and stem and transom are now connected by two chine logs and the keelson. I have some more scarfing to do on the shear clamps. Hope to get those on this week.

But I also have to make an Irish castle for the kids' school's float in next Sunday's Mystic Irish Parade. So that may take some time...

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Totally ridiculously (two adverbly) busy spring. But got some time in on the build so I thought I would show (if I can fight my way through the difficult picture posting process) how it's coming.
First, here's why my weekend project has taken 6 months to date: Coached 1 team, competed in 6 road races and 2 triathlons, built a little red schoolhouse float for a St Patrick's Day Parade, built two projects for a Catholic School fund raiser, wrote and delivered a eulogy for Mom (that's another, crappy story...) and cleaned and recommissioned two boats for family use.
Now back to the simple plywood on frame Spira Dory build.
Honestly, if it wasn't so difficult (for me) to post pics here, you may have heard from me sooner.
But, I got the hull built and started glassing this week.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

To add to Nova Scotian's post. The screws are driven just below the surface of the wood and filled with your choice of filler. When I build, I'll use a mix of wood flour and epoxy spread on like auto body filler.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Hmmm, it your going to epoxy glue the plywood to those frames etc, why not remove those screws after its cured and fill the holes. No need for those screws, as the epoxy is far stronger. Simply use chipboard screws to hold in position to teh epoxy cures, then remove them. It will save you a bucket load of money compared to sue SS screws
Just a suggestion

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Hmmm, it your going to epoxy glue the plywood to those frames etc, why not remove those screws after its cured and fill the holes. No need for those screws, as the epoxy is far stronger

You could do that, but you'd need to apply some form of glue(epoxy) to the frames before skinning them with plywood. Then, all of the frames would have to have a fiberglass and epoxy fillet around them. All of that would take a considerable amount more time and equal the same or more weight in the end. Strength wouldn't really be an issue as Jeff Spira has designed them to be more than adequate for what a homebuilder would do with the boat.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Originally Posted by Mark Bowdidge

Isn't the plywood glued to the frames etc at all. ?? Is it all just screwed to the frames?

A bead of PL premium is run along the frames before skinning. Without screws, I believe there would need to be more done to prevent the separating of the plywood skin from the frames. I would, and intend to do, epoxy and fiberglass tape filets around the frames to hold the plywood to the frames better.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

What ben said Spira's boats other than a few stitch and glue designs; are glue and screw jobs with some glass and epoxy outside for sheathing. I'd definitely stick with the designer's method here, which IMO is a lot more pleasant job than a zillion fillets and tape and all the associated sanding.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

are glue and screw jobs with some glass and epoxy outside for sheathing.

Thats fine. If it were me though, I'd simply use chipboard screws. In other words, apply epoxy glue to the frames, throw on the plywood and screw it into position. Then next day, pull the screws out and fill the holes. Overall the epoxy will be far stronger making the use of screws redundant and not a requirement.
Just my suggestion.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

NOVA Thank You for posting this. As I have started on the Spira International 18' Veracruz Panga of which I plan to make a bit longer lol.

Mark Bowdidge You are correct in that if one wishes they can epoxy the plywood panels to the frames and attach with screws and remove them but this is also why it is recommended to use Stainless Steel screws so removing them is not needed especially after they are encapsulated. But again and also as explained by Jeff that if one really wishes they can remove the screws after the epoxy sets and fill the holes with epoxy but this will also increase the work needed for the build.

As a side not at least for myself as I am brand new at this and I have just started making the frames for my Panga. But I did try the PL Premium 8X fast cure on one frame No 2 and did not feel it was worth the effort in doing so. Pl Premium Fast Cure is a bit faster as one does not have to mix it and it is probably a bit cheaper than epoxy and of course it is pretty thick so it will fill a gap pretty well and it does get hard over night but it does form a rough surface so if you wish to have a smooth fillet then it takes a good bit of sanding and probably the addition of a finish coat of thickened epoxy to the surface with of coarse more sanding lol.

So in my simple newbie opinion at this time it is well worth the time to just go ahead and use epoxy from start to finish. Even though there are some good videos by Mark Vikers on the Spira International web site and you tube on a boat build or two of his that used PL Premium fast grab a great deal.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Originally Posted by Mark Bowdidge

Thats fine. If it were me though, I'd simply use chipboard screws. In other words, apply epoxy glue to the frames, throw on the plywood and screw it into position. Then next day, pull the screws out and fill the holes. Overall the epoxy will be far stronger making the use of screws redundant and not a requirement.
Just my suggestion.

One problem with driving screws through an epoxy coated frame or panel is that the epoxy will set around the screw and threads. Many years ago, there was a thread on here where this exact problem came up. I can't remember which member it was, but they ended up using a large soldering gun to heat the screws and remove them. Problem was, a lot of them snapped off at the head.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

On an unrelated note, anyone planning on attending the Wooden Boat Show at Mystic Seaport next weekend? Not sure if it will encourage or demoralize me. I can literally walk there, and I hold an annual membership, so I probably will attend.
I fear that seeing projects by skilled craftsman will remind me that I am a complete idiot. With tools.

Re: Spira International Dory Build

One problem with driving screws through an epoxy coated frame or panel is that the epoxy will set around the screw and threads. Many years ago, there was a thread on here where this exact problem came up. I can't remember which member it was, but they ended up using a large soldering gun to heat the screws and remove them. Problem was, a lot of them snapped off at the head.

That's easy to get around. After you glued and screwed, wait for around 2 hours or when the epoxy is just touch dry, grab your phillips head or screwdriver and "crack" the screws. This breaks the bond. Then walk away until the next day and pull the screws out. Too easy

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Originally Posted by Mark Bowdidge

That's easy to get around. After you glued and screwed, wait for around 2 hours or when the epoxy is just touch dry, grab your phillips head or screwdriver and "crack" the screws. This breaks the bond. Then walk away until the next day and pull the screws out. Too easy

Re: Spira International Dory Build

Well, I launched her! Sea trials were Friday, and went smoothly. So I rowed her 4 miles on Saturday and 3 on Sunday. Loaded here down Sunday with two teenage boys, two dogs, me and some gear. She rows effortlessly and has been getting nice compliments from other boaters and tourists alike.