as a cheaper option sounds the part, but dont be dissapointed if it doesnt meet you requirements.... if you want good you have to pay good.... just dont make a mistake and think this is !Removed! once you tried it out... save up first and get quality then you wont need to change...... always remember once you have a sub fitted for first time, they have to be run in

I've had Fusion encounter range fitted before and found them easy to fit aswell as top quality

12" fusion encounter sub with built in amp on the side
Two component 6.5" in custom box's
Parcel shelf fitted with two fusion reactor 6x9's with half inch plywood spacers to prevent scuffing the sub
Front then
Two 4" fusion encounter with JVC tweeters mounted in the doors.

Lenny, what do u think about the bassface subwoofers? tinyurl.com/mt2uvxm

And to maintain a good bass I recommend purchasing a pivot mega razin voltage stabiliser kit
Its like a resivour of power that can supply on demand much quicker than your battery can,
So in effect gives better base aswell as helps other components such as lights dimming under heavy base lol
That one is fun to watch on some boy racers with badly installed systems lol

If purchasing a pivot megarazin kit, don't purchase from eBay because they are all fake replicas tat don't power off and will drain your car battery over night, trust me I've bought two sets from eBay both fake white.
Purchase directly from pivot
. http://www.pivotraci...om/product/VS-M

wat about a power cap? does the same thing stores charge and a 1 farad costs about 30 quid?

Not exactly - the power capacitor stores electrical energy (a bit like a battery but can release its electrical energy quicker) and can release this energy when the amp demands large amounts of instant current/ power for transients - like a high amplatude bass note

Thats why you keep the capacitor close to the amp and the wires short and thick - so the cap can transmit its power almost instantly with little resistance

A 1farad capacitor capacitor can also be placed close to the battery - this can help reduce high frequency interference and also helps to boost the batterys - "instant" power - and can even help starting! - its not as effective for boosting a rear- mounted amp because of the long leads/ resistance of the wires reducing its effectiveness for transients

The pivot system is different from the capacitor - it is far more sophisticated and works in a different way (sometimes you get what you pay for )

The 1300w RMS / 2600w makes me smile - if the £130 twin 12" speakers were connected up to REAL 1300w RMS they would last about 2 seconds before they melted (i would take all the exagerated claims with a "pinch of salt") each 12" speaker is probably only 100w to 150w - a typical full- range pro-audio 12" driver is about 250-300w ("true" rms power) max, and the magnets, voice coils etc will be several times the size of the car ones

A regular car alternator puts out about 700w, a couple of hundred watts (or more) is needed for the cars electrical systems - how can the car run 1300w? = it can't (without serious modificatoins)

The twin 12" speakers and big cabinet will use up all your boot space and probably weighs 30kgs - its a lot of extra weight for a 1.4 to pull - a better designed, (probably more expensive though) single 12" or 10" sub would brobably be louder, produce deeper bass and be more compact and lighter than the cheap twin 12" sub