DISCOVER A QUIET STRETCH OF BEACH

Skip busy Junkanoo Beach and head instead to Paradise Island, which is connected to Nassau by two bridges. There are several access points to palm-tree-lined Cabbage Beach, and if you head to the curving north-eastern end, it's practically empty save for a few people walking along the sand. Bliss.

Paradise Island

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LEARN TO PLAY THE GOOMBAY DRUMS

Junkanoo is Nassau’s Boxing Day carnival, when flamboyant dance troupes parade through the streets to a soundtrack supplied by goatskin drums, whistles, bicycle horns and cowbells. Quinton Woodside, leader of Barabbas and the Tribe junkanoo group, also runs the Junkanoo World Museum, open year-round if you're not on the island for Christmas. You can dress up in the costumes, learn to play the traditional goombay drums and, on request, Woodside can even arrange a visit to a working shack to watch the costumes being made. facebook.com/junkanooworld

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YO HO HO AND A DISTILLERY OF RUM

Named after a pirate and set in a former plantation house, John Watling’s Distillery produces four rums (ranging from the two-year-old Pale Rum to the five-year-old Buena Vista) that are only available in the Bahamas. The free tour ends with an optional tasting and the chance to stock up on bottles. johnwatlings.com

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Terrace at Louis & Steen's Coffeehouse

Quinn Russell/@travellersbazaar

BRUSH UP ON THE BAHAMIAN ART SCENE

Founded by the late architect Jackson Burnside in the 1970s, the brilliant Doongalik Studios is now run by his wife Pam, who studied fashion design at Central St Martins in London. She exhibits work by local artists and is a real driving force in the local art scene. doongalik.com

Bliss out in The Bahamas

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GO WILD AT AN EPIC WATER PARK

Ingratiate yourself with your children by taking them to the Aquaventure Water Park at Atlantis (or just go, you know, because it's fun), across the bridge on Paradise Island. High-speed water slides include The Surge, a twisting roller-coaster that ends in white-water rapids, and the corkscrew Serpent Slide through the darkness of the Mayan Temple. atlantisbahamas.com

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Mayan Temple at Aquaventure Water Park

EAT THE BEST CONCH SALAD EVER

Forget the downtown fish-fry and head to Dino’s beachside conch stand by Compass Point. Choose between the traditional conch salad (green peppers, tomato and a squeeze of lime) or the pineapple-based tropical version. Salads are made to order so kick back with a beer and soak up the sea views while you wait. facebook.com/dinosgourmetconchsalad/

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Poolside cottages at The Island House

Jessica Antola

BUY LOCAL AT THE FARMERS' MARKET

The weekly Saturday market at The Island House hotel, curated by the Field to Fork community farm, is excellent. A dozen stalls set up on the lawn sell everything from organic vegetables to kombucha tea and natural Bahamian sponges. Afterwards, join locals on the poolside terrace for blueberry pancakes and coconut French toast. the-island-house.com

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GO SHOPPING FOR ISLAND STYLE

The smartest shops on Nassau are at Lyford Cay in the north-west. The Island Store is the place for Harbour Island-style homeware – batik quilts, azure pottery, homespun linen napkins – while next door, Marcie Bond and Sabrina both specialise in breezy kaftans, floaty beach dresses and beaded necklaces. islandstorebahamas.com; facebook/marciebondresortclothing

Product display at The Island Store

Sabrina Lightbourn

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LOSE YOURSELF AMONG THE WORLD'S LARGEST COLLECTION OF PALM TREES

Spread over 11 acres, The Retreat National Park is a green haven with 170 species of palms (zombie palm, silver bismarck palm, to name just two) and a whole miniature jungle of tropical plants. Sign up for a daily guided tour where you can learn more about the palms or stroll on your own under the leafy canopy. bnt.bs/the-retreat/

Lantern and palm trees outside Louis & Steen's Coffeehouse

Quinn Russell/@travellersbazaar

Carrier offers 7 nights at The Cove Atlantis from £7,390 per family, based on 2 adults and 2 children, including flights and transfers.