Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.

Description

This is not too bad. The bolts may be out on the face, but most of the route is climbed on the far side of the arete. Basically follow the chalk up. There are lots of good resting points and confidence building holds.

The two bolt anchor at the top of this route is attached firmly to a block which is NOT firmly attached to the main cliff. When viewed from the side you can see air between the block and the face. Earlier this year there was some serious rockfall in the gully right next to this arete, and I have a feeling this whole thing may come down soon. Be careful!

The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague.

The hangers on this route are welded cold shuts, I don't know why anyone would trust their life to such crap. If I were going to lead this route, I would replace them with real hangers.

As for the block on the top, it's definitely coming down; the question is when. It will probably take a few hundred freeze/thaw cycles (or a minor earthquake) before it falls. Will it be tomorrow, or in 500 years?

Did these two climbs on 10/24/2008 and somebody has placed 3 bolts about 10 back from the edge. I would recommend using these to set a top rope anchor and being careful around the top 15 feet of these climbs. Geology happens and eventually the top of the this climb is coming down.