Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing people that they were.

Pitch one: Climb the first pitch of Orangutan Afternoon. Climb the large right facing corner until it ends, and then step across to a ledge with chains. 5.10. ~ 100 feet

Pitch two: Traverse left from the belay and pull around a small roof to gain a left facing corner. It is possible to escape right after just a few feet of the corner, but for better quality climbing continue up the corner to an under cling flake and the short bouldery crux of the pitch. 5.10c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch three: The money pitch. Climb the striking, overhanging, flake/crack up the orange and black streaked wall. This pitch starts hard and keeps coming at you until the end. 5.12c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch four: Move the belay to the base of the overhanging finger crack. Lieback, jam, thrutch, and curse your way up the steep tips crack. At the roof, go left. A #4 Camalot is nice here. Belay anchors are up and to the right on a ramp. 5.11c. ~50 feet. (Note: we believe that this pitch has been aid climbed before, but never freed. The base of it is accessible from the top of the Peeler Direct Route)

Alternative to Pitch Four: Scramble up the low angled ramp from the base of the .11c variation and climb a very high quality 5.8 hand crack to the anchors.

Descend with one 70 meter rope. Skip the rappel anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch and go all the way to the top of the first pitch. A 60 meter rope is workable with some trickery.

Location

How to find it: In Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the Black Peeler Buttress. Park 1.75 miles up canyon from the neon sign at the mouth, in the same pull out as for the Great White Icicle. Cross the highway, and hike up the closed road to the first major switchback. From here follow the steep climbers trail (marked by cairns) to the base of the cliff. The first pitch starts about 100 yards right of the prominent Peeler Direct Route. See photo.

Protection

Rack: Double set of cams from a #00 C3 to a #1 Camalot. 1 each #2, #3, #4 Camalot. All Belays are bolted.

Nice job! We looked at that line quite a bit while equipping and working on Golden Eye. We were up there a lot in the winter though, so it always had ice on it. I never gave it a closer look and had no idea there would be three new pitches, that is great! I only saw the yellowish crack looking straight up from the belay at the bottom of Golden Eye. Again, great job and thanks for all the cleaning effort!
Sep 20, 2007