Palate: It is dry. Once-bright acids have mellowed into a soft pillow of white pith, the body is medium, the texture now feels silken but still a touch prickly

Flavors: It still tastes immensely complex. Mellow white pear and pineapple form the core, framed by an waves of nuts, anise, and salt, finishing with a whiff of reedy lemon grass cooked in coconut milk. A slow, fino sherry-like oxidation has turned this into something more akin to Vin Jaune: now spiced but still bright.

Conclusions: The sun is setting on Château de Rochemorin’s 2006 Pessac-Léognan blanc. It is still very, very good wine (4 of 5). Some French won’t touch a Bordeaux blanc until years out and I can see why. Just be ready for something different. And pair it with simply prepared salads, roast chicken with shaved almonds, artichokes, anything with a bit of butter will brighten this up.