Please note that Trad Gang forum registrations have been suspended betweenSunday, March 18th, and Monday, March 26th,during our conversion/migration move to a new server and new forum software.We apologize for this inconvenience - please do come back, y'all!

posted August 20, 201702:40 PM
Only reason for me, if the bow is for me. Is that that's all the wood the stave had to work with and I wanted to make that piece shoot. Then I would make a string draw stop to keep me from pulling too far. That's about the only reason for me. But then it would probably be passed on to someone that can make use of it.

posted August 20, 201704:13 PM
You should tiller a bow to your draw length and maybe an inch or so more just for insurance. Building a bow with a 26" draw for a 28" draw is asking for a broken or badly bent bow.

--------------------Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!TGMM Family of the BowPosts: 13514 | From: Brevard, NC. | Registered: Apr 2003
| IP: Logged |

posted August 21, 201707:16 AM
I build 'short draw' bows because I don't always shoot in that classic standing pose where I can get my personal 26" draw. If I build a bow for brush hunting, or sit hunting, I do not use my normal 27" "standing draw", I use a "draw to bow shoulder" or "draw to center chest" technique, with the bow almost completely horizontal.

It's an urban myth that an archer "must" draw to the, chin, ear, etc, brought to you my those English longbowmen. Horse archers and many other traditional shooters did not draw that far.