A few years back, I was sharing a beer with some folks from the watch industry outside the halls of Basel World. One of them happened to be a watchmaker at Patek Philippe. When I asked what he was wearing that day, I expected see him turn his wrist over and reveal a Calatrava, or maybe an old Nautilus. Instead, he showed me a Jaeger-LeCoultre master calendar. And therein lies the beauty of JLC; these watches are made for people that really, really know watches.

Long the "watchmaker’s" manufacturer, JLC is one of the few companies that produces each movement in-house, without the assistance of its neighbors. To me, the quintessential expression of what makes JLC so strong as a watchmaker is a timepeice unveiled just a few months back called the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, and, in particular, the model cased in stainless steel.

Here’s why: The perpetual calendar complication is one of the great benchmarks in horology as it allows the wearer to keep track of time, day, date, week, month, and year in perpetuity, and even accounts of leap years. It is truly a technical marvel that this can be accomplished without the use of a micro-chip. Several high-end manufactures make a perpetual calendar, but the average price of these watches are between $55,000 and $120,000, depending on the metal used. But Jaeger-LeCoultre’s perpetual calendar, in steel, will cost you $19,950, and it’s an ultra-thin!

A perpetual calendar is one thing, making it extra thin is quite another. And, while JLC also makes the MUT Perpetual Calendar in gold, it really speaks bounds about what the brand is trying to do when they announced the watch in stainless steel, at under $20,000. This watch is so insanely wearable and affordable in steel, it’s practically paradigm shifting (a term I hate, but in this case, I really mean it). This watch means so much to JLC, and to fans of complicated watches, that despite the limited production of the MUT perpetual in steel (it’s not a limited edition, just a small production run will be made each year), it really could be the best watch of 2013. The timepiece allows an entirely new set of watch lovers into the world of true complications, as this perpetual costs less than most annual calendars, which is a much simpler calendar function that does not account leap years. To me, it’s a no brainer. Jaeger-LeCoultre may not have the brand cachet of Patek Philippe, AP, Vacheron, or Lange, but they are arguably making the best watches out there for the dollar.

You can read more on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual in steel, rose, and white gold here.

Benjamin Clymer is the founder and ecutive editor of HODINKEE. For the latest in horological news, reviews, and original stories, visit HODINKEE.com