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Router mounted to TS2400 Table

09-28-2005, 02:41 PM

I want to mount a small router table (or is it a surface) to the left end of my TS2400. My thought was to drill mounting holes into the edge of the table and hang the router table from bolts through the holes. The router table would have a steel angle attached, which would then be bolted to the TS's table edge. Is there anything I need to be aware of so as to not harm the table saw.

I made a router table that fits into the opening of the table when fully extended. I've designed it so that I could attach a sacrifical fence to the standard fence for different bits like a panel bit if you wanted too. There are potentially two problems with my design. 1) Because this just rests on the rails of the table, the clear rule guage hits the router table. 2) There is not much clearance between the saw and the router in this position. Also a router table switch to turn the router off and on without reaching down would help. I'll see if I can get a ditital photo so you can see it.

[ 10-14-2005, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: BobR ]

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Thanks Bob, I had also thought about some sort of drop-in for that space, but the vertical space didn't look to be enough. Maybe I need to look again. Good point about the switch. Don't sweat the photo, your description was pretty clear.

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It will probably be a while before I get the router attachement fabricated, but when it is I'll post some photos. The way I'm thinking I'll likely make the attachement such that I can mount either of my 2 routers or my jig saw in the attachement. I'll use interchangable plates to swap tools.

Wood working is a hobby, not a job. Therefore, my progress or output can be pretty slow.

By the way, I just upgraded to the TS2400 from an entry level TS, and boy is it sweet in comparison. The first 2 cuts convinence me it was worth the money. I went with the 2400 rather than the 3650 because I have a space problem.

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Well, I've put together a router surface for the TS2400. It drops into the opening when the right hand extension is moved over. Photos below (I hope).

The surface rests on 4 clips I've bolted onto the edges of the table and the extension. This allows the rip fence to slide over the router surface, with a sacrefical fence attached it should eliminate the need for a separate router fence.

The surface was made from a 1" thick desk top that was laying around (chip board w/ laminate surfaces).

I made the router plate from 1/4" acrylic. The size of the plate opening will allow me to also install my jig saw. The opening was cut following the advice from Hylton & Matlack's "Woodworking with the Router".

I've used leveling screws to support and level the surface, and to level the plate. I made the clips from 2x2x1/8 angle I had on hand. Combined with the depth of the table this meant the leveling screws needed to be longer (2") than I would like.

I haven't worked out the electrical switch location yet, that will come.

The major draw backs with this arrangement are 1) the router is a bit too far from the right end of the table (I'll use it standing at the right end of the saw), and 2) adjusting the router bit height requires lifting the router out of the table (not that big a deal).

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I made the router surface almost as large as would fit into the opening when the table extension if fully extended and as wide as the opening between the rails. The specific dimensions were 20-15/16" x 10". I made it about 1/2" narrower (10" dimension) than the maximum opening to aid in removing it, but probably not really necessary. The surface was made from 1" thk chipboard with laiminate facings, from an old desk top.

The router plate is home made from 1/4" acrylic, 12" x 8". I routed a 3/4" wide ledge around the opening, using a template that the router base followed. The cut out was centered in the surface.

The support clips were made from 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle I had on hand. I suspect they could be made from angle as small as 1 x 1, but the 1/8 thickness is probably needed for ridgidity.

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I made a router table that fits into the opening of the table when fully extended. I've designed it so that I could attach a sacrifical fence to the standard fence for different bits like a panel bit if you wanted too. There are potentially two problems with my design. 1) Because this just rests on the rails of the table, the clear rule guage hits the router table. 2) There is not much clearance between the saw and the router in this position. Also a router table switch to turn the router off and on without reaching down would help. I'll see if I can get a ditital photo so you can see it.