I just installed a Boyer in my R100 /7. Seems to run just fine. The mid-range has improved / smoother, but admittedly, my points and advancer unit were in rough shape, so new points would have been an improvement as well.

You have several choices. Do you want to have a complete electronic conversion that will eliminate the ignition points and the mechanical advance. The hottest stuff has most recently been the conversion to crank mounted electronic conversions. You can have a Hall sensor to eliminate the points but keep the mechanical advance. Or you can keep the OEM stock system but take the high Voltage pressure off the system by incorporating a Booster.

The most expensive is the crank mounted systems, around $500, and the cheapest are the stock system with a Booster, about $80.

I'm a fan of the Booster. The points are kept in place but should last many years with occasional checking and adjusting. If the Booster fails the OEM set up can be reverted to and only needs moving a couple of wires.

Real old school would be a monkey poking a flaming stick into each spark plug hole. Then you could upgrade to dual sticks. Or for real high performance dual monkeys- each with 2 flaming sticks. That was an early precursor to dual plugging!!

A booster reduces the service time on points, but retains the mechanical AR, which by now may be giving less than ideal results. The Dyna 111 replaces the points with an electronic switch, but retains the AR unit.

A proper electronic ignition replaces the whole lot, and can have a choice of ignition curves. The Boyer curve is designed to reduce pinging and help tickover.

Various choices from Boyer, Sachse, Silent Hektik. Boyer is probably the easiest available in the US. Alternator mounted ignitions can retain points as a back up.

Points or electronic,, it's a bit of a philosophical question, some people swing one way, some the other.

On older bikes, /5's, 6's and 7's, I like the Dyna electronic ignitions. I prefer modding the advance weight springs to slow the advance curve slightly, but still allow it to go to full advance at revs above 3.5k-4k. (easily done by shortening the spring and using the next winding to secure it to the advance weight pins).

One significant operational advantage of the Dyna ignition over a Boyer is that it will still fire if for some reason your battery voltage drops below 12V. Even if your battery drops as low as 6V or less, you'll still get an ignition spark if you can kick or bumpstart your bike.

A Boyer ignition won't fire with a weakened battery. Forget the exact cut-off voltage, but it's not far off 11.8V, if memory serves.

On older bikes, /5's, 6's and 7's, I like the Dyna electronic ignitions. I prefer modding the advance weight springs to slow the advance curve slightly, but still allow it to go to full advance at revs above 3.5k-4k. (easily done by shortening the spring and using the next winding to secure it to the advance weight pins).

One significant operational advantage of the Dyna ignition over a Boyer is that it will still fire if for some reason your battery voltage drops below 12V. Even if your battery drops as low as 6V or less, you'll still get an ignition spark if you can kick or bumpstart your bike.

A Boyer ignition won't fire with a weakened battery. Forget the exact cut-off voltage, but it's not far off 11.8V, if memory serves.

I was under the impression that Boyer had done some changes to their units that allowed them a little more wiggle room under 12v. (I thought I read that somewhere)

I was under the impression that Boyer had done some changes to their units that allowed them a little more wiggle room under 12v. (I thought I read that somewhere)

I'm pretty sure that Boyer have revised their ignitions, the problem was that under certain low voltage conditions, they reverted to full advance, which made starting difficult. I think that we are talking about under 10 volts for the early units.