2010 SS Camaro ProCharger Kit - Get Z28 Power Before It Hits The Streets

Can't Wait For Chevy To Get The LSA-Powered Z28 Camaro On The Market? ProCharger Has The Kit To Satisfy Your Horsepower Lust.

Get Z28 Power
Since the rebirth of the Camaro, enthusiasts have been screaming for a double-throw down, suck the paint off your house and give your family a permanent orange afro version similar to brother Corvette's ZR1. The good news for Bow Tie fans is the supercharged Z28 is coming, but not for at least one model year (who knows at what cost, and it surely won't be cheap). So, what's a horsepower-rabid Camaro owner to do? Call the boost experts at ProCharger, that's what.

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ProCharger's new '10 SS Camaro centrifugal blower kit comes complete with everything a new Camaro owner needs to give his LS3 or L99 a 175-plus horsepower (at the flywheel) shot in the arm. We upped the rear-wheel ponies on a stock six-speed manual SS from a respectable 364 to a Mustang-crushing 519 with a mere 6 pounds of boost.

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Follow along as we install this new kit on Chevy's 21st century sports coupe for some tire-roasting fun.

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2010 SS Camaro ProCharger Kit - Get Z28 Power Before It Hits The Streets

ProCharger's new P-1SC-1 blower kit for the '10 SS gives you Z28 power (and more) and neck-snapping acceleration in an easy to install package.

Bone stock, the LS3 in our subject car was making 364 hp at the rear wheels on a Mustang chassis dyno. Before taking anything out of the box or beginning any disassembly, read the instruction first. This way you can be sure you have all the necessary tools and other items for the install.

Here's the whole kit unpacked.

The heart of the kit is ProCharger's P-1SC-1 centrifugal blower set up for making about 6 pounds of boost. The P-1SC-1 is a fully-sealed unit with its own internal oil supply and lubrication, so no external oil hookups are necessary. The supercharger features a one-year warranty, but for less than $50, you can extend that to a three-year deal.

To prevent any trouble later on, once you remove the blower from its box, go ahead and fill it with the included, ProCharger specially-formulated supercharger oil. Often, people get distracted and forget to fill the head unit with oil before starting the car, and after a short run time, the blower's internal gears will eat themselves.

With those pieces removed, next to come out is the radiator fan assembly. Two bolts at the top secure the assembly to the radiator. Don't forget to unplug the fans before removal.

Next up, the A/C compressor belt has to be removed. On the LS3, to remove the belt, the compressor has to be unbolted from its mounting bracket. Earlier LS engines features a separate tensioner for the belt, but on the newer models, belt tension is fixed and set by securing the A/C compressor. You'll need to go underneath the car for this one.

To get the balancer off, you need this special removal claw-style tool. The balancer has three notches on it for the claws to grip onto for pulling the balancer off.

The ProCharger kit comes with a factory-style balancer that has been machined to clear the special pulley for the blower belt. On the left is the ProCharger balancer, on the right the stock unit.

When drilling the nose of the crank for the pin, you must drill deep enough for the length of the included pin. Drill too shallow and the pin will interfere with the blower pulley and cause belt alignment issues, among other things. To make sure you drill deep enough but not too far, an easy trick is to use some tape on the drill bit, mark off your depth with the tape, and when drilling once the tape hits the included drilling guide, you're drilled deep enough.

Slip the blower pulley into place, then use the included longer balancer bolt to press it onto the nose of the crankshaft.

Next, the front wheels and inner fender liners have to come off along with the grille/nose for installation of the supercharger inlet ducts and the intercooler. The inner fender liner uses simple clips to hold it in place. You also have to remove the liner for access to the bolts holding the front nose of the car on, which has to be removed for intercooler installation.

The grillle of the new Camaro comes off easily after the removal of the 10mm bolts that hold it in place. You have bolts and clips up top in front of the radiator, two bolts on the bottom, and two bolts through each of the inner front wheelwells that have to be removed.

The intercooler mounting brackets attach at the same place the bumper/brace attaches. Leave the adjustment bolts of the intercooler loose so once you have the brace reinstalled, you can adjust the position of the intercooler so all the inlet and outlet pipes connect and align properly.

While the intercooler was being lined up, the new washer fluid reservoir (included with the kit) was installed. Because of the space needed for the blower, air ducts and hoses, the factory reservoir won't fit.

Here are the brackets, tensioner, and necessary hardware to install the blower on the front of the engine. The polished finish option was selected for this kit; standard is for all parts including the blower to be in a satin/natural aluminum finish.

You'll need this T-fitting from the upper radiator hose for installing the new upper hose included with the kit.

Moving along, the power steering pump is unbolted so the power steering bracket can be removed. The pump will attach to the new ProCharger mounting bracket. Once nice thing about the new GM design is you don't have to remove the power steering pump pulley to remove the pump from its bracket.

Next, the upper mounting bracket plate is installed, secured with three bolts into the head.

The new power steering pump bracket attaches to the previously installed bracket plate and locked down with three bolts.

This spacer piece is installed next to the alternator.

The power steering pump is reinstalled to its new bracket and bolted down.

Next, the main bracket assembly is installed using the included bolts. The belt tension is adjusted to the extreme loose adjustment to later install the blower belt.

Before installing the compressor housing (blower), go ahead and install the supplied oil drain line. After the housing is installed, route this line to the bottom of the car someplace for easy access when changing the supercharger's oil. You should change the blower oil after the first 500 miles, then every 6,000-7,000 miles, using only ProCharger's special blower oil. Not using it can void the supercharger's warranty.

The head unit slips in snuggly to its bracket and then is bolted down. After that, the blower belt is installed.

With the blower set, the new upper radiator hose can be installed using the factory T fitting.

Time to go back underneath the car and install the air inlet/outlet tubing and couplers. As you install all the tubes, leave the hose clamps around the rubber couplers loose so you can easily make adjustments to get all the tubes connected and lined up properly with the blower, intercooler, and intake throttle body.

With all the inlet/outlet tubing lined up except for the intake tube, the radiator fan assembly is reinstalled. Don't forget to plug this back in after the install is finished.

The surge valve assembly is installed on the lower intercooler tubing, then its vacuum source routed from the power brake booster line using a special fitting included with the kit.

With the meter installed, the inlet tube is set in place and coupled to the intercooler outlet tube using the supplied coupler. Once everything is lined up, using the included silicon coupler to connect to the tube to the throttle body. With all of the inlet/outlet tubes lined up and connected, go back and tighten all the hose clamps and make sure everything is sealed properly. If a coupler isn't sealed correctly, under boost it'll blow off and cause problems.

Reinstall the factory radiator overflow tank and reconnect the lines to the radiator. Then you can refill the radiator. After the install is complete, with the engine running, leave the radiator cap off and let the temperature come up and the thermostat to open so you can "burp" the engine of any trapped air inside the cooling system.

Here is the special fitting installed into the brake power booster vacuum line to supply vacuum to the surge valve. If you try to pull vacuum from another source, when the blower starts making boost, you'll have pressure instead of vacuum, and this will cause the surge valve to malfunction.

Now is the time to swap to larger fuel injectors. Each injector is held into the rail by a small clip. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver, release this clip, then slide the injector out. The factory units are 42 psi; the ProCharger squirters are rated at 65 psi.

Use a little Vaseline on the injector O-rings to help them seat/install in the rail easier, and prevent them from pinching. Once seated, reinstall the factory retaining clip, and you're good to go.

Next up is making sure the PCV system is rerouted properly for the blower. If you left this factory line in place, under boost, the blower would also pressurize the crankcase, which causes severe engine damage and possible failure.

The inlet tube is installed and secured with the supplied coupler. The tab just under the tube was used to mount the factory air box, and to clear the new inlet tube you might have to bend the tab out of the way for extra clearance.

With everything installed and tightened up, the nose is reinstalled in the reverse order of removal and the inner fender liners reinstalled.

Fully installed, the bright polished parts of the ProCharger kit light up the dark confines of the 2010's engine bay, and didn't require any sort of drilling, cutting, or other major modifications to the body of the car, so it can be returned to bone stock without a problem if you so desire.

Using an SCT handheld tuner, the required tuning of the Camaro's computer is done with the touch of a button so the most can be made of the supercharger's performance boost. The handheld unit also provides some fine tuning capabilities if you need to adjust any of the parameters of the "blower tune" installed on the computer, and will store the stock tune in case you ever remove the blower and run the car without it.

With everything all set, the car was strapped back down to the Mustang Dyno, and the results were fantastic. The Camaro made 519 hp at the rear wheels, an increase of 155 hp, still using the stock exhaust. With a better flowing exhaust, the blower's performance boost would increase substantially.

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