BEST ANSWER:I replaced the masking tape with blue painter's tape from 3M. I had to lower the bed, 3/4 turn of the wrench counter-clockwise on all 4 corners to accommodate the thicker tape. I like painter's tape because it is less prone to tearing, and it is a rougher surface, so the print seems to pry off easier after it cools.

BEST ANSWER:I replaced the masking tape with blue painter's tape from 3M. I had to lower the bed, 3/4 turn of the wrench counter-clockwise on all 4 corners to accommodate the thicker tape. I like painter's tape because it is less prone to tearing, and it is a rougher surface, so the print seems to pry off easier after it cools.

You have several choices. This printer is suitable for both ABS and PLA, so your choice depends mainly on what you print. 3M blue painter tape is popular for PLA. I used a piece of BuildTak cut to size because I mainly print ABS. PEI is also an option.

This tape on the printer bed is the same tape used in the vinyl graphic industry for masking vinyl. Using blue painters tape for the print bed is fine, just use rubbing alcohol on the waxed surface to make the filament stick to the print bed as its printing

I think it's just to protect the aluminum during shipping. I pulled it off and printed on wide masking tape stuck over the platform. After graduating from tape I bought PEI plastic sheets, stuck it to the aluminum and use that as the print surface.

If cat.gcode works, then your printer is working fine. At that point, any problem you have with printing other items will have to do with the way those items are sliced, i.e., your slicer settings. And the optimum slicer settings may depend on the particular item being printed. I think most, if not all of us had rough starts in the beginning like you are experiencing. But once you get a sense of how the slicer settings affect printing and also a sense of the capabilities of your printer, most reasonable prints will print just fine. That being said, there are limitations to any printer, and some items from thingiverse may simply be unsuitable for this printer, for example overly complex or badly designed shapes with unreasonable support requirements, very fine supports, etc.) Don't give up! The MP Select Mini is a fine and capable printer for the price!

gcode are the commands to the firmware of the printer. Models or .stl files have not yet been "sliced" into gcode. Your slicer needs to be configured for the printer. There is an awesome community to be found on Facebook, "MP Select Mini Owners". As an aside, you don't describe what is not "working". There are tons of problems that can occur printing. The community also has a list of preventative models you should print first, as well as enhancements. You will find slicer configuration files for Cura and Slic3r and others. Personally, I like Octoprint Pi with its built-in Cura and web interface.

You will have to set up all the settings . The layer density ect.... I have been trying to set mine up to print in wax, and it ain't easy. Keep trying and keep changing the variables until you get it right

BEST ANSWER:I didn’t have any issues with PLA sticking on the factory build plate material with 40-60° but have since peeled that off and use polidimide with glue stick. I clean it off with rubbing alcohol and a gentle scotchbrite pad after each print and reapply glue.

BEST ANSWER:I didn’t have any issues with PLA sticking on the factory build plate material with 40-60° but have since peeled that off and use polidimide with glue stick. I clean it off with rubbing alcohol and a gentle scotchbrite pad after each print and reapply glue.

You can use hair spray. Try a very little amount, then adjust if needed. I'd also like to suggest to cover the steel rods where the head glides. Hair spray dries tacky, leaving over spray on rods can affect it's performance over time.

BEST ANSWER:You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners.Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.

BEST ANSWER:You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners.Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.

You should try and make sure that the extruder is extruding plastic out of it, raise it to the top and extrude some plastic. If that works then you should try and fix the bed calibration, since this printer is not autocalibrating, you need to set the bed level yourself. Start a print up, and when it starts to print and is at the right height turn it off. Then move the bed to each corner and use a sheet of paper and tigthen/loosen the screws with the supplied hex wrench until the bed paper is moving freely then move until you feel that the nozzle is catching a little, then loosen back the screw at 1/4 turn, that should get the nozzle height set perfectly, try and see if that works. If not plastic is still coming out, or you hear the extruder motor skipping steps, then you should lower the bed a little bit, the nozzle is still too close. Hope that helps :D

Make sure the bed is totally level. Home all, preheat the extruder and bed to the temperature you plan to print at. Make sure that you remove the filament from the extruder, so it doesn't leak through, and give you a false measurement. Use a single sheet of paper, cut into a 1 inch (25mm) wide strip, and manually move the extruder and bed so the extruder is about 25mm from a corner. Slide the paper between the nozzle and the bed, adjusting the corner screw up or down, until the paper just starts to drag. Repeat this at each corner of the bed twice, using a criss-cross pattern. Finally, put the extruder in the center of the bed, and verify the paper can slide between with a slight drag. Home all, and wipe down the bed with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Load your filament, and you should be in business.

In almost all cases when you can't get filament to stick it's because your bed level is not quite right.

Home the hot end and use printer paper to check that the height is correct. You should be able to stick one piece of paper between bed and nozzle with a very slight drag for pla or abs. For petg use three thicknesses of paper with a tight fit.

Move the hot end to the other three corners as well and check them in the same way. Adjust the leveling screws if you have trouble.

Just before printing wipe off the bed with isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel.

If you are using PLA, apply masking tape to the bed, and increase the temp of the nozzle by 5C or so. If it is ABS, then you need to heat the bed as high as it will go and the nozzle to 230 and use tape as well.

Any chance of increasing the bed temperature to 100C? I print almost exclusively with ABS, and this printer would be perfect for my smaller parts with that option. 60C is just not high enough for reliable ABS prints.

A shopper
on Dec 4, 2016

BEST ANSWER:I would suggest PETG as an alternative. Many of the high strength/temperature benefits of ABS without alot of the finicky behavior.

The built in controls top out at 60, but if you're running something like Octoprint or controlling it with a PC, you can set the bed higher. That said, I'm not sure you could get it to 100C without a lot of patience. I powered mine up and set it to 100C and after around 85C it really starts to struggle to get any warmer. After fifteen minutes of heating it's still not quite 90C

Is there g-code to switch the cooling fan off? I often start printing in the evening and leave the printer over night to do it's job. Is there any way (gcode maybe?) to switch the cooling fan off (this one on the extruder)? I mean, printing takes like 3-4 hours and the fan is on for few more hours without any need until I switch it off in the morning. Greeting from Poland!Pokush

I have not tried this myself, but you can try the G Codes on ThingiVerse Cheat Sheet (this form will not let me link to another site -- but if you search for "thingiverse G Code Cheat Sheet" it'll be first on Google)

BEST ANSWER:Yes you can print files drawn in inventor using Cura. The file needs to be saved with an STL file extension.Example (lego.stl) Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.

BEST ANSWER:Yes you can print files drawn in inventor using Cura. The file needs to be saved with an STL file extension.Example (lego.stl) Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.

BEST ANSWER:You can put gcode files on there and print from it without a computer attached. This is actually how I always print, because then I don't have to worry about a computer crash, or Microsoft deciding that I HAVE TO REBOOT RIGHT NOW OMG for a Windows update from ruining a print.Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.

BEST ANSWER:You can put gcode files on there and print from it without a computer attached. This is actually how I always print, because then I don't have to worry about a computer crash, or Microsoft deciding that I HAVE TO REBOOT RIGHT NOW OMG for a Windows update from ruining a print.Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.

Once you have your G Code or printing paths created, you transfer them from your computer to the printer with the MicroSD card. I believe this can also be done with a USB cable but I prefer using the card.

Does this work with Cura 2.3.1? I can print with the older version (15.04.03), but can't connect with 2.3.1. I need 2.3.1 because the behavior is different, and 15.04.03 is adding extraneous surfaces that aren't in my model.

A shopper
on Nov 21, 2016

BEST ANSWER:I upgraded to CURA 2.3.0 and selected the RidgidBot for a printer ... Now I get great prints but the caveat is I have to move the component to the front left quarter of the build table in the CURA 2.3.0 screen.

BEST ANSWER:I upgraded to CURA 2.3.0 and selected the RidgidBot for a printer ... Now I get great prints but the caveat is I have to move the component to the front left quarter of the build table in the CURA 2.3.0 screen.

BEST ANSWER:I think you would have difficulty using it directly with a Chromebook. You could conceivably get a raspberry pi and set it up to work with that, at which point you could run it from a web browser and thus the Chromebook would be fine. Alternately, it CAN operate without a computer connection by simply loading g-code onto the included SD card, but I'm not sure the tool chain exists for the Chromebook to generate g-code.

BEST ANSWER:I think you would have difficulty using it directly with a Chromebook. You could conceivably get a raspberry pi and set it up to work with that, at which point you could run it from a web browser and thus the Chromebook would be fine. Alternately, it CAN operate without a computer connection by simply loading g-code onto the included SD card, but I'm not sure the tool chain exists for the Chromebook to generate g-code.

This may be more work than you want, but you can do it. Chromebooks have the ability to run a full distrobution of linux in a chroot with chromeOS. The setup will take a bit (depending on wifi-speed, really). Look up how to install Crouton. First download it and leave in your downloads folder on your chromebook. Enable Developer mode, setup crouton, download distro, setup distro, setup Slicer. Its a lot of initial work, but totally doable.

Or for $40, you can setup a dedicated Raspberry Pi 3 for this... + added cost of monitor, power cable, sd card, USB keyboard/mouse (or bluetooth)... and you can print off a nice case for the rasbperry pi 3 once you're set.

I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.

I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.

It uses .gcode, so you would need to download the .stl from tinkercad and then run the .stl through a slicer. (the slicer takes the .stl and converts it into code that tells the printer what it needs to print the file, including things like temperature) This is standard for almost all 3D printers.

Yes. You can use models from Tinkercad. But you still have to to run the .stl model from Tinkercad through a slicer to make .gcode that printer needs. Use Cura slicer (free). Works fine. Summary: Model (.stl)--> Slicer (.gcode)--> printer

BEST ANSWER:It comes with an old version of Cura for the slicer. I've successfully used a number of other slicers (slic3r, Cura 2.x). For CAD, I've been learning Fusion 360, which isn't as hard to use as its made out to be.

BEST ANSWER:It comes with an old version of Cura for the slicer. I've successfully used a number of other slicers (slic3r, Cura 2.x). For CAD, I've been learning Fusion 360, which isn't as hard to use as its made out to be.

BEST ANSWER:You need to use a slicer to convert the stl into instructions on how to print the object. Each model printer has different baseline settings and users will adjust additional settings based on preferences, materials, and needs. A gcode file contains all of those settings and instructions.

BEST ANSWER:You need to use a slicer to convert the stl into instructions on how to print the object. Each model printer has different baseline settings and users will adjust additional settings based on preferences, materials, and needs. A gcode file contains all of those settings and instructions.

BEST ANSWER:Hello, thank you for your question. Yes the the MP Select Mini is compatible with the Lenovo Ideapad 100s. I hope this helps, and of course if you have any more questions feel free to contact us!

BEST ANSWER:Hello, thank you for your question. Yes the the MP Select Mini is compatible with the Lenovo Ideapad 100s. I hope this helps, and of course if you have any more questions feel free to contact us!

i have a mac and what do i need to do to wirelessly hook it up to my mac?

A shopper
on Dec 20, 2016

BEST ANSWER:You can setup a Raspberry Pi with a wifi adapter and run OctoPi on it. OctoPi is a Raspbian linux distribution pre-configured with OctoPrint. You plug the Pi into the printer via USB and OctoPi/OctoPrint can then control the printer and provides an intuitive, simple (but a little ugly) web interface that you can use to control every aspect of printing from uploading and slicing a model (it uses Cura in the backend to perform the slicing), to starting the print, monitoring the print, and even creating a time-lapse video of your print if you have a camera connected. A definite "must have" for any 3D printer.

BEST ANSWER:You can setup a Raspberry Pi with a wifi adapter and run OctoPi on it. OctoPi is a Raspbian linux distribution pre-configured with OctoPrint. You plug the Pi into the printer via USB and OctoPi/OctoPrint can then control the printer and provides an intuitive, simple (but a little ugly) web interface that you can use to control every aspect of printing from uploading and slicing a model (it uses Cura in the backend to perform the slicing), to starting the print, monitoring the print, and even creating a time-lapse video of your print if you have a camera connected. A definite "must have" for any 3D printer.

It does not connect via WiFi, but it does print unattended from a microSD card. Use Cura (or some other slicer software) on your mac, save the gcode to a microSD card, and then put that microSD card in the printer.

USB driver is not working with my computer running windows 8.1. Cura does not show the USB connection. I used the driver that came with and it does work. Where can I download the right drives?

A shopper
on Dec 22, 2016

BEST ANSWER:Hello, is this specifically only occurring under Windows 8.1 or in other OS versions as well? Have you also tried it on a different USB port by the way? It is recommended to connect it on the USB ports located on the back of the computer for best compatibility. I hope this helps, thank you!

BEST ANSWER:Hello, is this specifically only occurring under Windows 8.1 or in other OS versions as well? Have you also tried it on a different USB port by the way? It is recommended to connect it on the USB ports located on the back of the computer for best compatibility. I hope this helps, thank you!

When I set the printer to Home axis as it says to do in the setup instructions, the nozzle goes to the front left corner of the platform. It then moves around and scratched the tape on the build platform. Also, the position doesn't allow me to reach the front left screw to level and change the depth of the build platform correctly. In the instructions it shows the home axis as front middle. Is there something wrong? If so what?

BEST ANSWER:I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Even if it was -- things don't stay level for long. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog -- you're going to have to re-level. It's not too hard.

Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.

Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.

Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.Repeat for each corner.

If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.

I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.

BEST ANSWER:I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Even if it was -- things don't stay level for long. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog -- you're going to have to re-level. It's not too hard.

Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.

Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.

Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.Repeat for each corner.

If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.

I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.

When the nozzle reaches the front left position and just starts to move towards the platform , shut the power off this will give you the ability to move the nozzle and the platform around so you can reach all of the screws on the platform and make your leveling adjustment I use a sheet of regular copy paper to set the gap . One other note I use blue painters tape on the platform , that has given me the best adhesion . Good luck and have fun !! ??

Hey, sorry you are having issues with your printer. The correct home location is front left, and I found that I had to lower the bed a bit first, before going to the home axis. Then, I could move the end around the print bed without it scratching, in addition to actually being able to reach the screws :). This allowed me to level all four corners pretty easily. Hope this helps!

If you were to make a 2 inch by 2 inch by 2 inch cube, how long would it take? Just to give me an idea on its speed

A shopper
on Feb 14, 2017

BEST ANSWER:Using the Cura settings on a 2 inch cube and my own judgement of fudge factor, I expect a 2 inch cube with wall thickness of 1.2mm and 20% infill will take 4 hrs. A solid cube block 100% infill will probably take 13-15 hrs. A toothbrush holder took me 4.5 hrs.

BEST ANSWER:Using the Cura settings on a 2 inch cube and my own judgement of fudge factor, I expect a 2 inch cube with wall thickness of 1.2mm and 20% infill will take 4 hrs. A solid cube block 100% infill will probably take 13-15 hrs. A toothbrush holder took me 4.5 hrs.

Okay... Set up the printer, printed the sample Lucky Cat... Downloaded Cura and uploaded a design from TinkerCad to G Code... How can I print directly from the USB connection (Printer to Computer?) Detailed response would be helpful because I am new to all of this! Thanks!

BEST ANSWER:I would strongly recommend you simply copy the Gcode file to the micro-SD card and print that way for now. That way you will have one less issues to deal with if there are any problems. Once you get the actual printing down then you can expand your ability to use USB, etc.

BEST ANSWER:I would strongly recommend you simply copy the Gcode file to the micro-SD card and print that way for now. That way you will have one less issues to deal with if there are any problems. Once you get the actual printing down then you can expand your ability to use USB, etc.

So i download files from Thingiverse and Myminifactory but when i open it in Cura, it says it is ignored because it has a .zip . How can i fix this?

A shopper
on Feb 17, 2017

BEST ANSWER:To unzip (extract) files or folders from a zipped folder

Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.Do one of the following:To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions

Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.Do one of the following:To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions

BEST ANSWER:In my experience, the machine is solid. Mechanical troubles I've had were mainly due to improper use. For example, an incorrect hot end setting may result in clogging, and very serious clogging may require a nozzle replacement if the clog cannot be cleared. Once I got the hang of slicing and printing, I've found the Select Mini to be very robust and reliable.

BEST ANSWER:In my experience, the machine is solid. Mechanical troubles I've had were mainly due to improper use. For example, an incorrect hot end setting may result in clogging, and very serious clogging may require a nozzle replacement if the clog cannot be cleared. Once I got the hang of slicing and printing, I've found the Select Mini to be very robust and reliable.

BEST ANSWER:I have not, but many others have. You should check out the MP Select Mini group on Facebook. There are over 4,000 members and they are very helpful. I have been having a lot of luck with Hatchbox PLA filament. Hatchbox does make a wood filament. Some people have even printed carbon fiber, but you should swap out your brass nozzle for a stainless steel one, as it will chew up the brass.

BEST ANSWER:I have not, but many others have. You should check out the MP Select Mini group on Facebook. There are over 4,000 members and they are very helpful. I have been having a lot of luck with Hatchbox PLA filament. Hatchbox does make a wood filament. Some people have even printed carbon fiber, but you should swap out your brass nozzle for a stainless steel one, as it will chew up the brass.

BEST ANSWER:First, curse at it. Next, with the printer off and cool, remove the two spring clips that hold on the fan and let the fan flop out of the way. Behind the fan is an aluminum heatsink. The feed tube is held to the top of the heatsink by an allen screw. Unscrew it a turn or two to release the feed tube fitting. Press the filament release lever and slide the feed tube a few inches away from the heatsink. Cut the filament and let the feed tube flop out of the way. If your printer has a plastic bushing between the feed tube and the metal hot end, slide it out.

Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.

As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.

BEST ANSWER:First, curse at it. Next, with the printer off and cool, remove the two spring clips that hold on the fan and let the fan flop out of the way. Behind the fan is an aluminum heatsink. The feed tube is held to the top of the heatsink by an allen screw. Unscrew it a turn or two to release the feed tube fitting. Press the filament release lever and slide the feed tube a few inches away from the heatsink. Cut the filament and let the feed tube flop out of the way. If your printer has a plastic bushing between the feed tube and the metal hot end, slide it out.

Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.

As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.

BEST ANSWER:Have had this for ~ a year. It is used primarily by my kids. Once set up, I have had zero complaints about reliability nor quality. The daVinci Mini looks like the same printer with a pretty dress. I always intended first 3D printer to be a learning tool, and as such we go through lots of filament so cheap is important. daVinci Mini require you to buy their filament which I believe cost upwards of 30% more. In addition to cheaper filament, there is more variety - glow in dark and neon colors are big hit with my kids.

BEST ANSWER:Have had this for ~ a year. It is used primarily by my kids. Once set up, I have had zero complaints about reliability nor quality. The daVinci Mini looks like the same printer with a pretty dress. I always intended first 3D printer to be a learning tool, and as such we go through lots of filament so cheap is important. daVinci Mini require you to buy their filament which I believe cost upwards of 30% more. In addition to cheaper filament, there is more variety - glow in dark and neon colors are big hit with my kids.

I got my mp select mini v2 today and followed all the steps once I got to the step to extrude the filament nothing came out the only thing that happened was a loud grinding sound did this happen to anyone else?

A shopper
on Aug 4, 2017

BEST ANSWER:It's possible your filament isn't all the way in. Pull it out, see if the tip is melted. If it's not, cut it off at a 45 degree. Then try feeding it again.

I had this printer (2016 model) for almost 2 yeas by now.Went through 3 1 kg spools of filament, so it was not heavily used. My observations:

It worked right out of the box, just be prepared to dial up slicer and print settings to get it deliver decent prints.

It had and still has major problems with a bed heater. Printer was replaced under the warranty for that reason, but replacement started having the same problems after 1 spool . It is out of the warranty now, so have to figure out how to repair .

The bed leveling goes out of alignment often, and by a lot. So have to re-calibrate the bed almost after each print.

Solid build quality, easy to use, print quality about as good as one could expect for < $200. All around a great jumping off point for anyone looking to get into 3D printing. Would definitely recommend.