In search of a better quality of life, fulfilling our dreams to see the world and provide ourselves and young children with invaluable experiences, we sold our home and possessions in London to begin our journey of a lifetime.
Here we will share our tips, stories, successes and failures, not only for our families and friends, but also to assist those who may have similar adventures in mind. We hope also to inspire those who relish the idea of travelling to newer and unfamiliar pastures but do not know how and those who require some evidence it can be done.

Bus travel

22 February 2011

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance.

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc.

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you.

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it.

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry.

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped.

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised.

Divide and conquer

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family.

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times.

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window.

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices.

05 February 2011

Finally, we made it to what will be our home for the next five months, an eco village in Piracanga, about an hour’s drive from Itacare.

Getting to Itacare from Salvador required us catching a ferry. You take it in Salvador across the water to Bom Despacho (about an hour).

We aimed for the 7am ferry, which meant waking up at 5.30am and getting a taxi at 6.30am (about 10 Reais). Although we waited in line with about 20 minutes to spare, the queue, for whatever reason, simply didn’t move.

People grew quite irate and, like us, missed the ferry. But eventually we got our tickets for the next one (they depart every hour) and then joined another mass of people, who waited impatiently for the gates to open into the boarding area.

Frankly, I’ve never seen anything quite so disorganised. And with a young child, pregnant wife and two large suitcases (not forgetting the warm and humid conditions), it wasn’t easy being herded - marching through with people shoving from behind and the side, desperately trying to find a way to jump the line.

In the boarding area it was much the same. Everyone waited for the signal to embark and then, without much consideration for others, made a desperate dash, oblivious it seemed to the prospect of leaving anyone crushed.

All I could think of was how potentially dangerous this would be during an emergency or evacuation. On the boat every seat was taken within seconds.

People boarded with all sorts of things, too, ranging from fish to fruit and vegetables to fridges!

Once safely in Bom Despacho, we headed off the boat and up a steep ramp, eventually to an area where you can catch a bus. We didn’t book anything in advance. The website for Cidade Sol didn’t offer this facility and we were advised there are always places available.

Since we missed our intended coach (at 8am), we had to wait for the next one – at 11am!

We were all feeling a little hungry. But if, like us, you are a little health-conscious or vegan, there isn’t a great deal to eat on site. I walked with Zenchai about half a mile along the main road towards town.

There’s a huge supermarket (with ATM machines) and we found some shops selling fresh coconut water and juices. We were back well in time for our bus (Cidade Sol buses head to Itacare at 8am, 11am, 12pm and 2.30pm).

From Bom Despacho it’s a five-hour journey, stopping approximately 12 times until you reach Itacare. The coaches are reasonably comfortable. Tickets cost about R30 (£11) per person.

In Itacare, we were collected by a Piracanga Land Rover, which drove us over quite rough terrain to the home at which we are renting a room for the next month.

Piracanga is undeniably postcard beautiful. It is surrounded by coconut trees, very lush and green and there’s the constant hum of the ocean waves. There’s a river nearby, which you must cross – or walk around – to reach the miles of deserted sandy beach.

But Piracanga is also remote, which has positives and negatives. We had to shop for fruits and vegetables in Itacare before arriving, but our supplies lasted only a few days.

The options are to eat at the Piracanga buffet-style vegetarian restaurant (excellent food) or find your own and prepare it. To get to Itacare (the nearest town) on foot takes over an hour along the beach.

Here in Piracanga, we will have to live more wisely, especially when it comes to conserving energy. We handwash our clothes and try to exist as one with nature. Life is simpler. We go to bed early and rise with the sun.

Our home has solar panels and is the only one in the village with a fridge – what a luxury!

We must charge computers and electrical devices in the morning and during the day, when (and only if) there is sunshine. There are no televisions. In the afternoon and evening the use of electricity is more limited. Internet is unpredictable and at times slow.

There are no lampposts or road signs. Look into the sky at night and you see thousands of stars. We find our way around by using our senses. At first the place seems like a maze. At night, when it is pitch black, you may need a torch. But we have managed without one, feeling our way back to our home.

Piracanga is safe. There are no security issues. Houses here are mostly open. No one has to lock his or her door or guard their belongings.

There are all sorts of interesting creatures, too: spiders, long-tailed mice, monkeys, lizards, birds, scorpions, snakes, bats and, of course, mosquitos. You quickly learn to get along with them.

We are all still adapting. Jamie, being pregnant, was a bit anxious about where the food was going to come from. We opted to eat lunch and dinner at the restaurant. We prepare our own breakfast.

Zenchai’s been hard at work, using a wheelbarrow and logs to build a pathway by our house. Our surroundings are one great playground for him. He has also found a little boy his age to play with. There is a school and lots of other children, varying in age.

I’m taking it slowly, absorbing the beauty and adjusting to the pace after coming from a city. We are listening to other residents about how best to live here. People come to Piracanga from all over the world – Brazil, of course, Portugal, Uruguay, England, Switzerland, Holland, Israel, Canada, America, Greece, France, Argentina, Ecuador and Romania to name just a few countries.

I have enjoyed the first few mornings running barefoot along the beach and then plunging into the powerful waves in the ocean. In the afternoon I play beach volleyball. Jamie and Zenchai like to swim in the river, which is bath tub warm.

It’s so different from being in the city. As Jamie said to me just recently, Salvador seems like such a long time ago, even though we only just left there.

It has more to do with the contrast in lifestyle than the illusion of time.

AbramsFamilyWorld travel tip: While everyone told us catching the ferry from Salvador to Bom Despacho was straightforward, be warned it is not. And I’d recommend travelling on a weekday rather than a Saturday, as we did, just to avoid the stampede. Alternatively, you can catch a plane, which is more expensive, from Salvador to Ilheus (about 50km from Itacare).

26 January 2011

We knew Argentina was large, but didn’t realise just how until we tried to plan getting around it.

Although it doesn’t seem so, Argentina (population 40 million) is the same size as India in terms of square miles. It’s the eighth largest country in the world.

Our intention was to see it all in three months. Having now had some experience of the country, that idea sounds so ridiculous. We only really scratched the surface. To do it properly, I’d like to go back, hire a campervan and drive around for 12 months. But the visitor’s visa is only valid for three months per entry, so you’d have to leave the country at various stages to make it possible.

We missed out on Patagonia (where there is also a Lake District), Mendoza (the wine country – although we’re not drinkers), Salta, the Los Glacieres National Park, Bariloche and Calafate, the multi-coloured mountains of Jujuy, not to mention the Valdes Peninsula and the wildlife sanctuary in Puerto Madryn.

Although getting around is relatively easy, it is quite expensive, at least when compared with other South American countries like, say, Ecuador. We took an overnight coach to Cordoba (the second largest city) from Buenos Aires, which was fabulous. Booking was easy. You can do it online with Omnilineas or, as we did, go direct to their offices (Maipu 459 on the 10th floor).

I visited alone the amazing Iguazu Falls, which was a 16-hour coach journey from the capital, but a truly spectacular sight.

Together, though, we explored a few areas around Cordoba, like the hippy town of San Marcos Sierras, where we felt reunited with nature, and Capilla Del Monte, where we spent Christmas and New Year.

But we soon decided that constantly hopping from one place to another while Jamie was pregnant and Zenchai only four-and-a-half wasn’t what we had in mind. So we picked a few locations and pitched our tent, so to speak, for longer periods. That way we felt more settled and like we were living rather than visiting or touring.

Buenos Aires was enjoyable, a real walking city and easy to navigate. Each block is about 100m and the roads run on a grid system, much like in New York. But breathing in the pollution and cigarette smoke (Argentines are big smokers) almost wherever we walked where it was reasonably populated had us eager to move on in the end.

It’s sophisticated by South American standards, very European in its atmosphere and culture. The people are very helpful and friendly. Argentines, I noticed, love public displays of affection. They are big on tattoos also.

Buenos Aires is a city with tree-lined streets, cobbled roads, pastry and grocery shops on practically every corner, graffiti on walls and abandoned classic cars scattered everywhere (much to Zenchai’s delight). It’s home to the tango and yerba mate.

Cordoba, where we went after Capilla Del Monte, is much smaller than the capital: compact by comparison and cleaner (hardly any dog mess on the pavements). There is less to do and see, however. But it’s a shopper’s paradise (I can’t recall being in a place where there are so many shops – and all selling, more or less, the same items).

We rented apartments where we could in Argentina. This was the cheapest option, but only for stays of two weeks or more. We tried first online, but the process was tediously slow. With the bulk of rent required up front (in cash), be prepared to get your money out. And be warned that the banks in Argentina charge for ATM withdrawals and place a limit on the amount you can withdraw. (Talking of banks, be sure not to leave your need for cash until a Sunday afternoon as most banks are dry by then. If you’re desperate, go to an ATM inside a large petrol station).

After getting tired of waiting for rental agencies to reply to emails when we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we tried knocking on doors and this produced almost instant results. We’d recommend you find the area you like and then approach real estate people in the vicinity.

On our return to Buenos Aires in January, we successfully secured an apartment online with www.4rentargentina.com. Again, we had to pay in cash.

Palermo was our favourite neighbourhood. Home to the zoo, Botanical and Japanese Gardens, Palermo is large. If you want to be near the park – or are a jogger* - make sure you search in that area or opt for Recoleta, where there is also the extraordinary Cementerio de la Recoleta. San Telmo, an old district, also has lots to offer and is probably the place to be for museums, antique and old book shops, jewelry and bars. There is also a big food market.

When we were on the road or having short stays, we opted for hostels. Some are cheap and others not so (we happened to get to dusty San Marcos Sierras and Capilla del Monte during peak season). Buenos Aires has a wide selection, but do your homework and read reviews (trip advisor is a good starting point) before booking.

We preferred the hostels we found in Cordoba to Buenos Aires. Hostels are fine if you want a cheap space and to prepare your own meals, but it’s sometimes not ideal for families with small children (although in Cordoba it wasn’t a problem – try Babilonia Hostel and Pewman Che Hostel).

Many hostels can be noisy and sharing bathrooms has its drawbacks when you have a son who’s desperate for the toilet and a pregnant wife. Also, in Argentina the culture is to stay out late – even for kids – so taking an early night often comes at a price.

The positive side to hostels (for families) is that they offer a chance to meet other travellers. And for Zenchai this sometimes included children, which was nice.

Zenchai handled the travelling side well. We looked into internal air flights for ease of getting around, but it was too expensive, particularly for non-residents. As for food, buying from a grocer, as we tended to, was affordable. I could fill a large bag with fruit and veg, to last us several days, for about £15. The same would cost at least double back in England. One evening in Cordoba, I even bought enough veg to make dinner for three and it came to the equivalent of £1.

The variety is better for fruits than vegetables. It didn’t compare in Buenos Aires and Cordoba with what we could get our hands on in Capilla Del Monte - a small town which you can easily cover on foot in a few hours, probably less if you are doing just the centre. Getting there, we took a bus from Cordoba. It takes a lot longer (about four hours) if you are on a bus that stops in every town. The direct one (Sarmiento is the operator) takes around an hour.

Long-distance train networks aren’t reliable in Argentina, but the subway (Subte) in Buenos Aires is excellent and very cheap at 1.10 pesos (20p) per person. It runs from 6.30am-11pm and trains come frequently, even on weekends. To ride the buses is the same cost.

Clothes and shoes etc are expensive, so we didn’t do any shopping of that kind (especially as we’re always trying to travel lightly), except for Zenchai’s Argentina top which I found at a fair price in one of the many shops in the capital city selling football kits.

Eating out could be costly also. It depended where you went. We had some cheap and good meals for under £10 and others, though not so frequently, that came to nearly £30. The food is decent, though unexceptional, at least by vegan standards (I can’t comment on steak houses etc).

In Cordoba, we found several lunchtime vegetarian options which were fine. Eating out at night was more difficult, because of Zenchai’s sleeping times and how Argentine’s prefer to feast late. But, to be honest, we generally found dining out rather disappointing wherever we went last year, regardless of the country. When we look back on our favourite meals, it’s nearly always been those home-cooked and/or with family. You can’t beat it!

Overall, though, we really enjoyed our Argentina experience. It surpassed all expectations. We had a memorable time. I felt really at home and safe in the places we visited and with the people. When travelling with a family, that’s definitely an important factor to consider.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: A Note for runners - I wouldn't recommend jogging or running through the city, particularly after 8am. There's too much traffic and pollution and too many traffic lights, not to mention the dog poop on the pavements. Head for the parks. One of the best is Parque 3 de Febrero, also known as The House of Sports. There you can run around 1km path that circles a boating lake. It's safe and you'll be joined by cyclists, roller-bladers and walkers. You can run on the tarmac, grass or gravel.

20 January 2011

HAVE you ever had one of those days when, for whatever reason, things just don't go the way you want them to and 'accidents' keep following you around?

That's how it was for me the day I went to Iguazu Falls. I was washing the dishes in our rented apartment and a bowl dropped and smashed over the floor. Then I knocked the owner's key chain on the floor and it, too, broke. Then when I went to Retiro station, where you catch the coach to Iguazu, I showed up two hours before I was supposed to (I misread the time on the ticket). It was one of those days.

I endured the 16-hour non-stop coach journey (longer than it used to take me to fly from London to Las Vegas), arriving in Puerto Iguazu the following morning, only to be welcomed by an almighty storm, the type you see in tropical climates and show no signs of easing.

That this was the first rainfall in Iguazu for 15 days of course did nothing to soothe my situation: I'd been wanting to visit this remarkable world heritage site since arriving in Argentina and the day I made my journey there was a colossal discharge of water from the heavens.

I invested 30 pesos (£5) in a plastic water coat (more like a giant plastic bag to be honest) and, with no signs of the rainfall relenting and having waited nearly three hours at the park's Visitor Center, wasn't feeling the joy. I ventured into the vast wetness.

Upon my arrival in Puerto Iguazu, in the far north-east of Argentina on the border with Brazil and Paraguay, I went straight to the tourist information office inside the bus terminal. For 235 pesos (£37), I purchased the 'Great Adventure' tour, recommended as the best way to see the falls. I wouldn't be disappointed.

But while the rain continued to fall angrily I wondered how much pleasure I could experience whilst feeling soaked and cold (yes, even in summer!).

Thankfully, I'd made the journey by myself and left Jamie and Zenchai behind in Buenos Aires. Pregnant women are not allowed on the Great Adventure and I reckon Zenchai wouldn't have enjoyed the conditions or the long coach ride.

However, I was beginning to regret the decision to arrive and leave the same day. An extra day would have allowed me to see Iguazu if it didn't stop raining and from the Brazilian side. My coach departed for Buenos Aires at 7.15pm. I was on limited time and the clouds were a deep, dark grey in every direction I looked.

I made my first stop within Iguazu jungle the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat), hoping that later the weather conditions would improve.

Devil's Throat marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. You take a small train from the central station to Cataratas station and walk along a 1km boardwalk to the impressive semi-circular mouth of the falls that is 700m long and 150m wide.

Although the rain started to subside, fully appreciating this immense vision from the viewing deck was difficult under the conditions. I could only think about how spectacular this would be if the sun were shining.

As best I could, I took some photos and headed back to the train station and then for lunch. There are plenty of cheap food options, like chips and hot dogs, if that's your preference. But I found a good buffet restaurant called La Selva, which, fortunately for me, had plenty of vegan options.

The prices were inflated, as you'd expect in a tourist location. For 97 pesos (£15), I was charged what it would cost me to feed my whole family at a similar place in Buenos Aires. Not to worry. I was hungry and, more importantly, the weather was changing. Hooray!

I ventured out again, found the pick-up point for the 8km jeep drive through the jungle along the Yacaratia trail to where I would ride on a speed boat for 6km through the rapids to the lower Iguazu River.

Although there are some 2,600 species living in the Iguazu jungle - and even jaguars - I didn't see much besides some large spiders overhead, racoon-type animals eating tourist leftovers and pretty birds.

The boat trip made up for it, though, and I urge you to take a spare set of clothes, especially if you, like me, decide to visit Iguazu only for the day. After putting on my life vest and my rucksack into a special water-proof bag, I waited for the boat to set off.

I was surprised by how smoothly it went over the water at great speed and seeing the falls in the distance was like approaching the mouth of a dragon. The boat stopped to allow us to take photos and then we packed away our cameras to get up close and personal.

I could feel the power and energy of the falls. The boat entered Devil's Throat and then San Martin, the second largest falls. The waters swirled and were so rough it appeared as if it were bubbling. Here the boat stopped, so we could sample the mightiness of the cascades.

It felt like buckets of water were being tipped on me. I took a deep breath and one last look up at the falls before the boat headed off. We disembarked. My clothes were soaked - money included!

I trekked back along the lower circuit, where there are more outstanding views to be had. I walked along with a charming Canadian family I had met (from Toronto), who even admitted Iguazu is more intimate an experience than Niagara.

Iguazu, by the way, is the name of the river and means Large Water. There are 275 different waterfalls, some as high as 270ft. And what I like also is that the pathways are elevated, to help reduce erosion from the many visitors who come here.

There is a story that says the Iguazu Falls were created when a jealous forest god, furious when a warrior escaped with a young girl down river by canoe, made the riverbed collapse in front of the loving couple. Legend has it the girl plummeted down the falls and turned into a rock, while her lover was made into a tree overlooking her. I couldn't tell you which tree or rock.

My time was nearly up. I joined the Canadian family at their hotel for a drink and then caught a bus (20 minutes ride) back to the bus station, foolishly not allowing myself time to eat (the bus company offers a basic food service).

The journey home took longer than expected. In the middle of the night a window shattered and the bus had to stop for repairs. Then we drove into another storm. There was thunder and lightning. The coach slowed down.

Comfortable as the seats are, after so long in a fixed position (there's nowhere to really get up and walk and stretch) I was feeling stiff all over - my back and bum was sore, my ankles swollen and I won't go into how my starved tummy felt. (Seats are usually in rows of three - two together and a single. I'd recommend the single).

So 24 hours after my last meal, I finally made it back to Buenos Aires, where my excited son celebrated my arrival with drawings of cars.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: you can get to Iguazu from Buenos Aires much faster by aeroplane, but it's more costly. My return journey by coach (Via Bariloche company) cost 844 pesos (£130) in semi cama, which is probably the second most luxurious option. Shop around. I purchased my ticket through Omnilineas.

07 January 2011

AS we prepare to embark on the next stage of our travel – in January to Brazil – we hope Zenchai’s needs are going to be more fully supported.

We shall be on Brazil’s Bahia coast for five months and, of course, in April he is going to have a sibling, which is likely to throw a whole new set of issues into our family dynamic.

Not that Zenchai has been miserable by any standards. He has adapted incredibly well for someone who this year has visited 15 countries by aeroplane, car or boat, stayed in 42 destinations and had 54 changes of accommodation.

Whenever I look at our family photos, his beaming face reassures me that our journey has been worthwhile and nourishing.

At first, though, each change of location was met with behavioural issues. And on several occasions moving has caused him some sadness – in particular when we left Kukljica in Croatia and my uncle’s in Santeny, near Paris, during the summer.

Zenchai often talks fondly and excitedly about his experiences, though. He remembers the finer details, too. We talk about it often. We look through pictures and discuss the people he’s met and places we’ve visited along the way.

Has the travel been better or worse for him? That’s not a question I can answer, partly because all children are so unique and it’s much too early to tell how this will impact on him, positively or negatively. What benefits one child may hinder another. And don't our experiences, whether 'good' or 'bad', shape and make us? Often it's the hardship - and overcoming it - that builds character, although I should emphasize that we aren't seeking hardship.

Zenchai has grown in a different way by travelling than he would have had we stayed put in our old home outside of London. He doesn’t have the stability of a house and his own play room, but, whether we’re in a hotel, hostel, apartment or someone’s home, knows his parents will be there for him night and day.

Since leaving the UK, Zenchai has also spent nearly every day outdoors. He gets much more exercise than he used to. He complained about the walking at first, but now does 5km in hot conditions almost routinely (and he’s not especially fond of the heat). Just the other week we went on a hike over large rocks and through caves and he really loved the adventure. But there are moments, too, when he protests incessantly.

For sure, there have been moments when Jamie and I have asked ourselves, ‘Have we done the right thing?’ But those thoughts, I reckon, are only natural in moments of uncertainty.

What I’d add is that similar doubts often used to cross my mind when I was working in London and the idea of continuing to break my back for a big corporation and the possibility of not seeing the world was eating away at me.

As a family, we have become much closer. We’ve come to recognise each other’s faults and strong points because we see and deal with them (often) every day. But we also have more niggling and testing moments: as a threesome often in places where we have no outside support, there is little respite. That can prove demanding.

We have now learned more to create individual time for each other and this involves making sacrifices. It’s essential when travelling in this way. Initially, we used to do everything together. It’s more fun. No-one wants to miss out on anything. But now I reckon it’s much better to occasionally split the childcare duties and give each other a breather.

During September, when in West Palm Beach, Florida, I had three weeks when it was mostly just Zenchai and I.

To be honest, I was apprehensive beforehand about the prospect. I had never previously had to take care of him all day every day for more than a few days. The idea of doing it 24/7 seemed daunting. Zenchai and Jamie had also never been apart for long.

Though we butted heads several times – actually many if I’m honest – it was great fun. We did things together and made space for each other as well. We shared meal times and talked a lot (I probably did more listening). I got to learn all about trucks, too, because bed-time stories each day involved reading and looking at the adverts in a free trucking mag we’d picked up from a service station!

One of the main reasons for leaving my work, though, was to dedicate more time to Zenchai – to be there while he was growing up. It means a lot to me that Zenchai feels a part of a family and that Jamie and I are around as much as possible during his most formative years.

I don’t think he fully appreciates that now. Because he’s not in a school system, Zenchai doesn’t know it to be any different. This, for him, is normal. I’m fascinated to see what he will be like as a big brother and how we change as a family when we become a foursome.

That’s just one challenge that awaits us in 2011. I am certain there will be many more. But I prefer not to look too far into the future because the course of life can change in an instant. It also takes your eyes off the present moment, which is so precious. That’s something I’m still working on.

Having had most of this year mapped out from the beginning, it was always tempting when in a place we weren’t particularly enjoying to think about a destination ahead that we were savouring. I learned, though, that it also takes time to adapt to your surroundings and circumstances. What feels awkward and undesirable at first can, in time, feel the opposite – if you give it a chance and are open to the possibility.

For instance, when we first arrived in Vilcabamba, Ecuador (with great expectations), we looked at each other and thought, ‘Let’s get out of here’. But five weeks later we moved on, somewhat reluctantly.

The year was, for me, the beginning of a massive shift in lifestyle. I knew it would take time to unwind from having worked in a big city for over 20 years doing the same thing – and it has.

I said to myself at the start of the year that I wouldn’t work for the first 12 months and for much of the time I have been too absorbed in parenting and family life to think of anything else.

But I’ve found that I now regularly crave sinking my teeth into a project of some description and that is something I hope to act upon next year. It doesn’t mean I want out from the life I am leading. I just have a desire to add to it with something that gives me a sense of purpose and fulfilment in addition to and beyond sharing days and experiences with my wife and son.

I’m still adapting (which makes me wonder how people are supposed to recharge with just a two or three-week vacation) and getting the hang of travelling with a family. Maybe next year I’ll get to grips with it!

The same applies to languages. I haven’t progressed as much as I had hoped. My Spanish is still basic. My Croatian, though, improved. However, I feel more confident with languages (even Spanish) even if I’m not significantly more proficient.

I’m less concerned about not making any sense and follow the ethos of my best friend Bob Lesson, who just throws what words he knows together and somehow makes himself understood. Nowadays I’ll just have a try. This year I’m going to make a committed effort at Brazilian Portugese.

None of this matters, though, if you haven’t got your health and, physically, I still feel youthful except when Zenchai asks me to play a game with him that involves crawling on hands and knees for a sustained period. I get plenty of exercise and sunshine, though. We eat lots of fruits and vegetables – as much locally-grown and organic as possible. We’ve avoided fast food at all costs, even though it would have been infinitely cheaper.

Family life provides many joys, but also most of my anguish. It’s also always in the back of my mind that our travelling money will one day run dry and that I/we must discover a way of generating some income.

I’m still persevering at being a good father and husband and meeting the challenges of family life the way I aspire to. We are also pondering different career possibilities and, with a baby coming, what to do and where to go after we stop back in England from Brazil next July.

Travelling, however, continually throws me opportunities to better myself and succeed where before I have failed, often miserably. It’s a fantastic way – especially when moving slowly – to see and feel the world and meet new people.

I don’t foresee us travelling indefinitely, but haven’t yet discovered a place where I’d like to make roots. In a way that’s positive, because I still have destinations I would like to visit first, like India, Thailand, Japan, China, Australia and New Zealand.

23 December 2010

It was a day like any other in Montevideo - sunny, warm and breezy. But it was a special day. We were going on our first bus adventure out of the city into the suburbs to see a family we had never met. Sure, we had emailed several times, we both had children of similar ages and we had mutual friends that live in Monaco. There was nothing to be anxious about really.

But the usual parenting concerns popped into my head. Would their 4-year-old twins like Zenchai? Would the children play nicely AND share? However…

I had nothing to worry about. They happily whizzed, zoomed and ran about with the boys pretending to be pirates stealing from princess Isabella.

Zenchai even set aside his "I don't play with girls" rule for the day.

Even the adults managed to have time to share in laughter.

As well as have heart-to-heart conversations about uprooting a family from England and the escapades of settling into a new familial environment.

Luckily for us Uruguay was home to our hostess before England had been. She and her English husband cultured us in some of the South American ways, including the ins and outs of mate-making and drinking.

We all had a fabulous day. It was hard to say goodbye. But the sun was setting and the temperature was dropping. It was time for us to catch a bus back into Montevideo.

Alas, our departure was not meant to be! Every bus that roared by was jam-packed and the drivers weren't stopping. With the sun sinking ever lower and the chill entering our bones, our host invited us to stay the night.

We put all the kiddies to bed. Once they were snug and sound asleep the adults revelled in hot showers, an evening meal and more wonderful conversations.

It wasn't any easier saying goodbye in the daylight. But I have the feeling we made some very deep connections with an amazingly generous family. I don't think it will be the last time we all have a playdate together.

20 December 2010

You hear warnings about taking taxis in Buenos Aires. But in five weeks we never encountered a single problem.

Admittedly, we seldom took a taxi late at night. Zenchai was usually in bed and we tended to use the Subte (subway) or walk as much as possible, so long as the distance wasn’t outrageously far for a pregnant mother and four-and-a-half-year-old boy.

Taxis within Buenos Aires are fairly inexpensive. Each journey starts at 5.80 pesos (less than a UK pound). Be sure to use the black and yellow (radio) taxis. For extra safety, call ahead or a remise, which are considered safer than the regular cabs.

Going from Buenos Aires airport, we’d recommend the Manuel Tienda Leon shuttle service. It cost us 174 pesos (£29) to Palermo. If you need to change cash, there is a bank (with an ATM) around the corner from the doorway when leaving the terminal.

However, if you are travelling light, take the subway around once in town – unless you are on the move during the rush hours (trains can get seriously cramped). Better still, use one of the many buses (there are more than 100 lines in the capital), though sussing out the routes can take some work. They run 24 hours a day, too, and make sure you have the right change as only coins are accepted.

We preferred the subway (decent and cheap at 1.10 pesos per person) and taxis when required.

Although some drivers, when recognising you are a tourist, will take you round the houses, it didn’t happen to us often. We learned the layout of the city quite quickly and found most drivers took the most direct route and didn't try to cheat us. On one occasion the driver was so eager to help that after he'd removed our luggage from his car he nearly took off without asking for his money.

Because you pay the fare displayed on the meter, you avoid the sort of disputes that can arise in other countries (tipping isn’t expected).

However, in Montevideo, for example, the meter doesn’t directly reflect the price. At the end of the journey the driver consults a chart which determines the cost of the journey. It’s puzzling until you learn how the system works. Be warned!

Also in Montevideo, driver and passenger are separated by a glass panel. This is for the driver’s protection (introduced after a taxi driver was attacked). However, make sure you are buckled in. On a few occasions passengers not strapped in securely have been seriously hurt in accidents when colliding with or going through the glass.

Paying the driver in Montevideo might also seem peculiar, because it’s done through a small hatch – like you would in some petrol stations at night. Expect to pay a little more in Uruguay. Everything seems to be more expensive than in Argentina!

14 December 2010

All smiles as we get settled in for our 10-hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Córdoba in our fully reclining seats (Cama Ejecutivo).

After a decent night's rest we arrived in Córdoba a half-hour earlier than scheduled. There is only one Sarmiento bus that travels to San Marcos Sierras each day. Luckily, we had arrived in time to catch it with only a two-hour wait until departure.

The Sarmiento bus stopped frequently along the way, letting passengers on and off in various small towns. We were unsure of how long the bus ride would be, so we had to stay vigilant looking for signs. After about 4.5 hours (150 km) we finally pulled into the dusty, hot town of San Marcos Sierras.I trekked across the dry empty plaza to the tourist information office to find out where our bungalows were located as their website had stated they were only 1,500 meters from the centre. The young girl working the desk handed me a map and pointed me in the right direction. It seemed a fair distance from the plaza and there were no remises (taxis) in sight. Our only option was to hike it.

With none of the roads in San Marcos Sierras being paved we knew we had a big task ahead of us, especially as we have two very impractical roller suitcases. Sweat already pouring from Claude's head, we began our walk.

The mid-day sun was beating down on us and the swarmy dust filled our noses. Zenchai was whiney with hunger, thirst and generally over-heating. My womb felt achey from the exertion of tugging my heavy bag and my own empty stomach began agitating me.

We were all barking at each other and far from the picture perfect family. The road just kept weaving ahead.

Finally, confirmation that indeed we weren't just wondering aimlessly amongst the beautiful foliage.

But, it still wasn't all roses. Claude's suitcase was protesting this gruelling journey, maybe even more than me!

Salvation at last. I don't know how long the walk from hell took, but we were all relieved when it was over.On a side note, the walk from hell is no longer the task it was when we first journeyed it. Quite possibly because we aren't lugging big suitcases and rucksacks down it when we go in and out of town. It is actually quite a charming saunter with many pretty trees and aromatic smells. But it's still a long way!

08 November 2010

Those are the two most common questions we get from friends, family and even strangers. The quickest way to reference where we are is on the left hand sidebar of our website or by going to either of our Facebook profile pages where it says current location.

Since the announcement of the growing sprout in my womb, the usual curiosity about where we are going and what we are doing has peaked.

As many of you already know we are presently in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Our immediate plan is to stay in our comfy apartment for another three weeks before heading off to another area of Argentina. We would like to visit Iguazu Falls, one of the most impressive waterfalls on the planet, but the 18-hour bus journey with a boisterous 4.5-year-old is slightly off-putting. There is also a lovely coastal area about 300km from Bs.As. that we might like to explore before ferrying to Uruguay.

We have roughly allocated six weeks to Argentina and another six weeks to Uruguay.

Our itinerary has us flying from Bs.As. at the end of January to Salvador, Brazil, in the Bahia province. From there we will make our way five hours south to an eco-village, where we would like to lay foundations until late June, well after the birth of our newest vagabonder.

From there, due to our flight restrictions, we have to fly back to Bs.As. where we will enjoy a few days before taking the mammoth flight back to London.

The question on everyone's mind is what will we do once we return to England. But so far we are just taking it one day at a time. We think we would like to have another Croatian summer and from there go the opposite way around the globe to visit Australasia.

07 June 2010

NOT many children can claim to have spent their fourth birthday inside a volcano and at the centre of the earth. But that’s what Zenchai did.

We stayed at the El Crater Hotel, perched on the edge of a volcano near Pululahua. The views on a clear day are fantastic. The walk into the base of the crater is easy enough going downhill, but arduous coming up, especially because of the high altitude (we didn’t do it, but saw many people huffing and puffing their way up).

Getting to the hotel was relatively easy – a short cab ride – from the Mitad del Mundo (Centre of the Earth), where we’d visited the monument to mark the spot (even though it’s about 100 metres from the precise location) and two museums – one inside the monument and another a short walk down the road.

The outdoor, interactive museum is more interesting and fun, especially to children. We made a day of it.

The best way to get to Mitad Del Mundo by public transport is to take a taxi to the Condado Shopping Mall. From there buses depart frequently for the Centre of the Earth. It takes about half an hour.

While it was sunny most of the day, the clouds moved in later. Weather can change dramatically. By the time we reached our hotel, fog was so dense we couldn’t see the building from about 20 feet!

I reckon we were the only residents. The hotel and restaurant next door was deserted. Even though the hotel is pricey, even by Western standards, this was a special occasion. We splashed out a bit, probably for the first time since we arrived in Ecuador.

The restaurant, while beautiful and elegant, was a letdown. The food didn’t quite hit the mark and was quite expensive. However, it was an experience well worth having.

Although we woke up the next morning with the fog not having shifted and thinking we were never going to get to see the inside of the crater, within hours it disappeared and everywhere was bathed in sunshine.

Interestingly, as we were by ourselves, Zenchai didn’t get many presents. We’d given him a small plastic jeep – admittedly cheep – that he’d had his eyes on in Cuenca. But he was more than happy.

It just goes to show that it’s not the cost or size of a present that matters.