1999 vfr 800 running issues

Hi there. Im back to fixing my vfr800 running issues. Decided to strap a gopro and ride around for a bit last night to capture the problem. Heres an example of it happening:

You can see that the FI light comes on, the revs drop to zero and the power stays on. It only happens when warm and its random. Sometimes im not able to restart the bike at all so I have to call a tow truck. Ive already done the following maintenance:

My next step is to read the FI codes and see what the bike is saying. Ive got two questions:

1. Anyone have a feedback to whats going on
2. Ive got a hold of a 2001 with a blown motor. I see that some parts arent easily swappable (ecu/harness/no manual choke) unless the whole thing is swapped. Anyone know what else isnt easily swappable?

Im also thinking if i cant find the problem I will go ahead with swapping the 2001 harness/ecu to the 1999. I would do this because the 1999 has a clean title and is 2 years older so can get collector status sooner.

Hi - you need to run thru your charging system... Its not unusual for funky instruments to be a hint.
If you dont have a multimeter go buy one....
2 guesses - either the R/R is out right dying or the stator has a leg going out while hot...
Anyhoo, its a good idea to upgrade the charging system anyway... the stocker will eat it on you.

Hi - you need to run thru your charging system... Its not unusual for funky instruments to be a hint.
If you dont have a multimeter go buy one....
2 guesses - either the R/R is out right dying or the stator has a leg going out while hot...
Anyhoo, its a good idea to upgrade the charging system anyway... the stocker will eat it on you.

Already got a voltmeter so good. Also thats what the green light at the top left at the dash is for. Its an active voltmeter so its showing 13.2+ volts when running so gtg. Measured while idle and revving and not too high either. Its got an upgraded reg/rec too.

So I read the codes and there were a ton - 12,14,1,2,9. Decided to clear them and see what pops up after a ride. Rode to where the parts bike is and it died 4 times on me. Read the code and only 1 popped up again - 14. Injector 3 itself or its wiring problem. Hope the parts are interchangeable so its an easy swap to test.

13.2 volt is 0.4 volts over a fullt charged battery in good condition. You green light should be orange I'd say anything below 14 should be inspected and you should be 14.4+ when all is green.

However it seems that you have an unrelated problem as you get the Fi lamp.
Dropping the rpm like that could be a trigger problem not counting correctly and ECU shuts down.
Read the code and post, that is where you should start your search!

Edit: saw your new post.

Ohm it at 13-14.4, if ok
swap injectors around and see if the problem moves with the injector.

I don't think you would experience engine shut down on a mechanical failure of one of the injectors.

One of the first things I checked was the rec/stator. They tested fine and saw no issues and they were upgraded. Had a mechanic double check a while ago too and it was good. Charging system doesnt seem to be the problem. Also it is a healthy 14v when measuring on the bench. I said GREEN = 13.2 + (plus, meaning 13.2 or greater). The light is just a quick way to see if its dipping while riding and if something is seriously wrong.

The real problem is code 14. Its injector wiring, injector or an ecu fault. Currently have the bike torn apart down to the injector in question. The connector on it was snug and no corrosion so that looks good. Compared it to a known good injector and it acts the same. Also used a motion pro injector cleaner to check its function. Still looks good. Currently testing the rest of the wiring.

Went through the service manual tests for PGM~FI MALFUNCTION INDICATOR 14 BLINKS (NO. 3 INJECTOR). All tests passed. The injector's resistance checked out and I compared it to a known good one. Traced the wiring to the ecu and didnt find a fault. Decided to put the bike back together. Swapped out the suspect injector 3 with a parts bike injector. So far the bike has been working. Getting the power im expecting and rode 260kms yesterday without a FI light/stall.

Looking back the #3 injector having problems makes sense. The bike was hard to start and its kms/tank were about half of what was expected. So for the next person who comes across this thread read the service manual and pay attention to the error codes.

So I read the codes and there were a ton - 12,14,1,2,9. Decided to clear them and see what pops up after a ride. Rode to where the parts bike is and it died 4 times on me. Read the code and only 1 popped up again - 14. Injector 3 itself or its wiring problem. Hope the parts are interchangeable so its an easy swap to test.

Hey VFR,
I have a similar problem with my boy and you video for when I pulled over the side of the road and turned off everything then turned it back on and it started right back up.
How do you obtain the codes if my F1 light did come on ( I didn’t really notice if it was on ) ?
Do you use the instrument buttons on the dash panel or is there a hook up for a similar OBD 2 instrument as used on a car?
I just got the bike two weeks ago and haven’t really delved into how the instrument lights and buttons work

Hey VFR,
I have a similar problem with my boy and you video for when I pulled over the side of the road and turned off everything then turned it back on and it started right back up.
How do you obtain the codes if my F1 light did come on ( I didn’t really notice if it was on ) ?
Do you use the instrument buttons on the dash panel or is there a hook up for a similar OBD 2 instrument as used on a car?
I just got the bike two weeks ago and haven’t really delved into how the instrument lights and buttons work

Click to expand...

If it is a fifth gen there is a jumper connection under the seat, inside the sub-frame, left side, above the R/R. Use a small wire to make the connection, and count the blinks of the FI light.

If it is a fifth gen there is a jumper connection under the seat, inside the sub-frame, left side, above the R/R. Use a small wire to make the connection, and count the blinks of the FI light.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your help but to be sure, is that connector wrapped with blue tape? (w/a green and orange wires)? It looks like I can easily jump them from the backside of the terminal because it’s open there!
Sorry to be a pain in the ass but I didn’t want to accidentally short (burn out) some wires.
THANKS AGAIN!
Also, do I need to have the side stand down?

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