I did a search on the measurements. The TDR is apparently 1420 mm long, while as the Logo 700 is 1390 mm long. I guess that Mikado and Henseleit has some different methods for indicating their measurements.

Anyways, the bag is 1500 mm long, which should be sufficient enough to carry the L700. Height and width should be plenty as well.

Yes, it should be 14mm. I have a 14mm swashplate leveler from Fast Lad Performance. I do also have the RDLohr 14mm swash leveler, but I really don't like the wobbly design of it, as you would have to be very precise when installing it. I do have the RC Logger 2 too. It has a 13m swashplate leveler, and I am wondering if it might work on the L700.

Looks like RX packs is not a popular choice. I would try the compartment after the main battery or the one after that.

First few flights on my 700 I used a larger receiver pack. Only place I found was under the frames. To hold it there I made a balsa box that just fit inside the frame and two of the frame joiners. Velcro'd the box to the pack and the assembly would just push up into the frame, then strap in.
Don't use this anymore because I went with a WR BEC and WR battery buffer unit with a small 2s450mah pack as backup. For me I wanted a redundant receiver power system and it weighs less than what I originally had..

I'd upload a picture of the original battery set up but the site times out, must be more ddos attacks...

then slid bearing over the epoxy watching to see if it builds up. when it builds up a bit ( looks like a ring around tube ) i slid the bearing back , then run finger over again to remove ring. Then try bearing again. Once it will go past the epoxy section , i move it back and forth a few times to get the epoxy worked into the inner side of the bearing.

Trick here is to get the expoxy worked in the space between the bearing and tube , not at all about quanity. So a small smear and your good.

About the size of a dime i did all bearings and end drive caps.

But using tape like dave does works to get them in place , once there in place there isn't any reason they would move.

I use the same technique as Martin but I use thin CA instead. To prevent CA goes into the bearing, I put a drop of tri-flow on the gearing. If CA does get to the bearing, it will form into a thin film and can be easily wiped off. Practice makes things perfect. After few times, you will make it perfect every time. Another trick is using toothpick to apply CA on the torque tube.

Of course tape works great too and easy to remove if you need to. The key is to fix the bearing in place. I will try tape next time. Thanks Dave.

Here is what I did. I wrapped 5 cm of cut medium thickness Scotch fiber tape around the tube. Then I sealed the edges and seams with CA. I had to use some CA kicker to make things effective. The last thing I did was to pack the inside of the boom and the o-rings with clear synthetic grease from Triflow.

By doing it this way, I am certain that the bearings didn't get messed up. I do however find that the solution is a bit "cheapish", though. My concern is that I will experience small vibrations due to the small displacements in weight distribution around the tube. The method is not exactly very precise. On a different note - if it's good enough for the Dahls, it should be good enough for me...

I would advise first pulling on the Bearing holder to be sure it doesnt come off bearing, then small drop of ca all you need to keep bearing in place, if the cover comes off ca as well, epoxy is not the answer as its too thick and messy on the small tolerances, off course be careful with the ca. My covers came off so obviously i am not a fan of the system.