If I run vr6 hubs redrilled to 4x100 in g60 spindles I am assuming I would use g60 wheel bearings? From what I can see the wheel bearings themselves are the same but they mount differently- although this would probably be the difference between + suspension and normal suspension.

Located up in Edmonton, if somebody wants to take a closer look at how the parts don't fit togeather.

-Dave

And if you used the mk2 mounts you wouldnt have to do those modifications to the body... although Im sure you know this. For someone with your fabbing skills it doesnt seem like much to use the 4 bolt axle mounts compared the just bolting in the 3 bolt ones.

If I run vr6 hubs redrilled to 4x100 in g60 spindles I am assuming I would use g60 wheel bearings? From what I can see the wheel bearings themselves are the same but they mount differently- although this would probably be the difference between + suspension and normal suspension.

To fit the rear diff and rear subframe, at an absolute minimum, the spare tire well needs to be removed.

To fit the mk2 syncro or the B3 syncro tank, the rear floor needs to come out. By the time you're doing that sort of thing, fitting the B3 4-bolt mount is really nothing.

I wanted to run a factory-type fuel tank, not a fuel cell. As it stands, to insure the car I had to have a safety inspection. I mentioned nothing about modifying the car for AWD, the mechanic mentioned nothing about the car being modified or anything looking out of place. I'd say that's a good sign.

The Passat tank is a hemeroid on the back of the car.
Here's another one:

To fit the rear diff and rear subframe, at an absolute minimum, the spare tire well needs to be removed.

To fit the mk2 syncro or the B3 syncro tank, the rear floor needs to come out. By the time you're doing that sort of thing, fitting the B3 4-bolt mount is really nothing.

I wanted to run a factory-type fuel tank, not a fuel cell. As it stands, to insure the car I had to have a safety inspection. I mentioned nothing about modifying the car for AWD, the mechanic mentioned nothing about the car being modified or anything looking out of place. I'd say that's a good sign.

The Passat tank is a hemeroid on the back of the car.
Here's another one:

Now your thinking like a fabricator. Fuel cells are easy to make so why not make one to fit since your going to all this trouble to make your car syncro anyway. That's my thought on the whole fuel cell topic anyway. I wish my house would stop falling apart so I can get my project underway

I have finally finalized in my mind the plan for the rear end. Looking at PSUCorrado's syncro swap again I realized that grafting floor pans and trying to source european parts just isn't worth it when it is so straightforward to just do a custom setup. The passat setup is a compromise and offers no benefit compared to a fuel cell setup. I have decided that I would much rather have a fuel cell to fill up in my trunk then a tumour on the back of my car.

All I am going to do is remove my spare tire well, mount up the axle using the mk2 3 bolt mounts and then weld in the differential support. Then I will put in a 12 gallon or 15 gallon fuel cell but mount it behind the diff and as low as possible. Doing it like this will make it MUCH easier and straightforward. All I need now is a fuel cell, mk2 axle mounts, haldex axle conversion and differential support.

Doesn't mean much to other people, but I am pretty happy I finally have a definitive plan to work towards.

Thanks for the info. Will add it to the thread. Anyone looking to do a syncro/haldex swap should definitely check out your thread on the CCC- you did a great job of the write up and I appreciate the documentation you did.

Thanks! I love the way that setup was done minus the fuel tank. Makes sense... don't really need the crossmember and there is no need to fab the points to bolt it in when you can just weld it. I am thinking 2"x1" chromoly would do the job perfectly and stiffen the chassis considerably.

First, I am looking at the internal slave cylinder of the 02m and my clutch line from USP. It has one female fitting and one banjo fitting... Im not sure how this is compatible even though it was specified for Corrado to 02m slave. It looks like I need a piece which fits between the 02m male slave and the male line

But, as far as I can see the Corrado master does not use a banjo fitting.

I would look up the part # but my pirated etka has been giving me troubles.

As far as an update I am very happy to get a syncro downpipe! Thanks to Dave for shipping it out to me quickly, really appreciate it.

FV-QR

My usp line had a female end and the clip-in male end. I'd send it back and get the old style, especially if it didint come with the banjo bolt u need. That piece you need is called a breather btw, just buy it new w/ new o rings, clips and bleeder, its cheap. They always leak, new wont give ya trouble.

Hi. first of all Im from Europe, car is 94 vr6 , so I think I don't have too much trouble finding euro parts.
I would like to stay as OEM as possible.

When going the Rallye floorpan way, what cross member and what fueltank can I mount?
If the only OEM fueltank option is the rallye one and I cant find it , I will use the 70 liter ( please say which one ) and after I pass MOT I will fabricate a fuelcell , BUT other parts must be OEM.

Is there a difference between syncro rearaxle assemblys from different models mentioned here?

also, what is the p/n for the 3 bolt brackets that is a straight fit?

My plan is to gather most of the parts for the haldex swap, then do a documented/detailed plan, and ask for a permission from where we register our cars, and then start building it, taking photos of every step so when I go to get it registered as AWD I dont have any troubles, the laws are really strict here.

This is where the mk3 subframe has to be modified to match up to the Corrado:

USP conversion line did work... just worried me initially since it uses a banjo bolt compared to the factory threaded hard line

Lottsa room for the driveshaft....eventually

Also began working on the rear output shaft which was damaged when the transmission was removed. I think whoever took it out took an air hammer to it or something Certainly has caused me some grief.
Luckily I was able to source a new cast piece for 70 bucks as opposed to the $500 my local VW dealer wanted for it But the radial seal is still stupid expensive at $80 for a piece of rubber

Finally, some people might be interested in my powder coating setup. Pretty ghetto but it gets the job done.