Ampara at the foot of the cliff Lunch is in the form of a platter of spaghetti: tomato and onion and the usual tough meat. Afterwards, we lounge on mattresses, picking soft sweet tree-ripened dates from a bowl and sipping beautiful cold clear clean water taken straight from a bucket placed beneath the cliff’s overhang […] Read more

Around three p.m., after the full ferocity of the sun had eased, I stroll to the village for a look around. The Land Rover is there, but there is no other sign of life. Some kids gather around me, especially a little girl who wants many lifts up, and more swing-arounds. The Land Rover is […] Read more

By chance, I spot lying in the sand a pinless hairclip with a pair of red glass jewels and when later a small child is being shoved around by a group requesting cadeaux, she gets the item as a reward for not pestering me and a message to the pests. She is happy, but not […] Read more