Description

This route is a pumpy, steep, pocket-and-jug haul to the penultimate bolt, then some slopers and crimps to the last bolt, followed by another jug or two to the chains.

The climbing is overhung to the first bolt, less-than-vertical to the fourth bolt, overhung again to the sixth, then vertical.

The crux for me is getting to and clipping the last bolt and then climbing past it. It's probably not as hard as I think, but I'm pretty pumped by then.

Location

This is the middle of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. (There is a newer, three bolt variant start in a shallow dihedral to the right of the bolt line described here, this line is the second-from-the-left).

The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

I've heard that the three routes on this wall are .8, .9, and .10 something. However, the middle route (the obstensible .9) seems a bit harder than .9 and is comparable to Platinum Blonde, if not a bit harder.

The middle route is SOLID 5.9 the hardness comes from the pump factor you feel near the top. But nonetheless, this climb is sweet! Way fun warm-up for the main Hard Rock. or Wave Wall. There is a new variation up the really shallow right facing corner between the 5.10 on the right. Pretty simple and kinda a squeeze play.

I am of the opinion that the middle route is 10a. When I think about other 5.9s in the canyon, Physical therapy for example, this route seems a touch harder. I have seen solid 10- leaders fall at the top, then send Platinum Blond. I also think that the route on the right is at least 10d. When I compare, in my mind, this route to a classic 10d like Monkey Meat I come up with 11a (very similar to Deep End). New route in seam between center and right route is quite squeezed. New work done at the base of these routes is really nice. Thanks to the hard worker.

I climbed this again today; I'll stick with my .10a rating. It's definitely easier than some .10a routes in AF (e.g., Punch the Clock) but harder than others (e.g., Black Hole, Domestic Tension). I did, however, bump the stars I gave it from two to three - this is a fun route.

Not knowing the rate before climbing it I was guessing that this was a 5.9. There really isn't a move that was that difficult,but the duration of the route and the pump factor may make it feel tougher. The crux for me was after the last bolt. Good solid route.