Cheap Eats: Todbott's Triangles

On Alberta Street, between carnicerias and cafes, Todd Gillies runs a miniature rice oasis. Quirky hand-scribed signs point you through a bamboo trellis, down a winding gravel path, to his hidden lunch spot specializing in onigiri (oh-nee-geary), a traditional Japanese rice ball that predates the chopstick. The triangular rice envelopes are stuffed with tasty fillings and swaddled in toasted nori seaweed, a fist-sized nugget that makes the ultimate finger food. Pushing their stroller, a Northwest couple makes the crosstown trek weekly to fill up on Todbott's triangles; they're that good!

The chow: Tucked into the corner like a human onigiri, Gillies prepares his triangles in what might be the smallest kitchen in town. The portable snack, originally fed to Zen monks and samurai warriors, comes with your choice of five fillings ($3 each). Fermented plums with kombo seaweed wake up your palette with a salty tang. Tempeh and shiitake are bathed in a piquant mustard miso. And don't skip dried mackerel in a sake sesame sauce, robustly seasoned with chiles and tamari. Nuka-zukke, the house pickles ($1), are a must. Misoshiru soup ($2) made from white miso is pure and soothing, the perfect accompaniment to the rice.

Real deal: Onigiri combo one ($8.50) comes with five half-sized onigiri, along with a beverage; combo two ($8.50) is three half-sized rice balls with miso soup and pickles.

Hangout factor: More backyard cottage meets lemonade stand, this humble spot verges on ramshackle. Think indoor food cart (some of you might remember Gillies from his food-cart days at Portland farmers markets) and enjoy the friendly charm. Inside can feel a bit cramped if there are more than two people, so, sip green tea outside while you wait. All items can be ordered to go.

Liquids: Gillies brews his own kombucha ($2) from white and black tea. A recent version was made with dried bael fruit, a sweet tree fruit from Laos. A solid selection of green teas ($1.50) is always available.

What's half-baked? The wild salmon and umeboshi onigiri threw me off with the addition of mayonnaise.

Inside tip: Avoid the lunch rush. If you live nearby, Gillies will deliver your order on his Peugeot bike, equipped with a cargo rack (this is a car-free business), after closing time.