There is no getting around food, the fun necessity, the allowable indulgence, the forgivable sin, and more than ever a national pastime. What is travel but going really far out to eat? Naturally, it is all over television, the programs, like the food, prepared in different ways, to different ends, and with different degrees of sophistication. Much of it is junk, to be sure — all fat and sugar and filler — but no less easy to consume for being so. This week, National Geographic Channel, a reality TV emporium that has very little to do constitutionally or aesthetically with its printed namesake — significantly, it is a collaboration of the National Geographic Society...

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