A Contemporary Greek Taverna Opens in Rozelle

Tender barbequed prawns and a one-pot chicken dish that’s an old family recipe.

Photography: Leticia Almeida

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Photography: Leticia Almeida

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Photography: Leticia Almeida

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Published on 12 March 2018

by Pilar Mitchell

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Unhurried is the correct way to eat Greek food according to Annette Fyfe. “It’s about sharing, eating well and eating slowly, and for a long time.”

Annette is behind a new Greek eatery in Rozelle: Opa Meze Bar. She has opened it with her husband, head chef David Fyfe.

Opa is a modern tavern designed by Matt Woods (Bloodwood). The 50-seat venue has a diagonal-laid brick floor, copper and timber highlights, marble tables, and mirrors. “There’s no blue or white whatsoever,” says Annette. “We’re not trying to be traditional; we wanted a contemporary look.”

Dinner might begin with warm pita and taramasalata (cod’s roe dip), or Opa’s take on hummus made with chickpeas blended with beetroot and walnut. The saganaki (fried cheese) is served sizzling with pistachio and sweet pomegranate seeds, which help cut through the salty, chewy cheese. Mussels are served in a rich tomato-based broth spiked with chilli and plenty of garlic.

The main event is the chicken kritharaki, a one-pot chicken dish cooked with a thick tomato salsa and orzo pasta. David has based it on Annette’s mother’s recipe. “He’s altered it and made it better,” she says, laughing at the blasphemy of disrespecting her mother’s cooking. She recovers and adds, “My mum loves it. She says he’s done a good job.”

It’s high praise, particularly considering David isn’t Greek. “We’ve been married 18 years, so he’s Greek by association,” she says.

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A cocktail list is in the works, and Annette says to expect drinks featuring the aniseed-flavoured Greek spirit ouzo. There are plenty Australian wines on the list as well as a couple of Greek bottles, most of them dry.

Opa is at the start of Rozelle’s high street, near the busy artery of Victoria Road and the location has proven a smart one. “We’ve only been open a few weeks and we’re regularly fully booked. We already know we need to extend,” she says.