Ramen Spots Bubble Up

Forget the flavor packet: In recent years, ramen made from long-simmered broth, fresh noodles, and a variety of toppings has emerged at restaurants across the West. Some of these new shops serve strictly traditional Japanese ramen, but many incorporate local ingredients ranging from goat pastrami to Meyer lemons. All serve a soup that’s vastly more delicious than anything in a Styrofoam cup.

Order the Shaka Bowl at Hapa PDX in Portland: The cold noodles arrive separately and you dip them into the hot broth, which is packed with chunks of luscious pork belly. “Think of it as deconstructed ramen,” says owner Michael Littman. (503) 560-0393, hapapdx.com.

The selections at the popular Ramen Shop in Oakland, founded by Chez Panisse alumni, change nightly to reflect what’s freshest. In winter, look for Dungeness crab ramen with the coral-colored meat on top and the unctuous butter and shells enriching the broth below. (510) 788-6370, ramenshop.com.

Eager to try one of those trendy ramen burgers? At Nudo Ramen House in Spokane, Wash., Kobe beef patties come sandwiched in griddled nests of ramen noodles instead of buns. “The ramen gets crisp on the outside, but then it’s warm and soft all the way through,” says owner Josh Hissong. (509) 290-5763, nudoramen.com.

Everything at Café Genevieve in Jackson, Wyo., is house made, from the noodles to the pickled daikon to the broth. “It’s a killer broth,” says manager Glenn Smith. “I can’t tell you how many people I’ve seen pick up the bowl and slurp it down when there’s nothing left to chopstick.” (307) 732-1910, genevievejh.com.