In careless or uncaring hands, 1833 could become a tourist trap. The Monterey restaurant, whose name refers to the building's age, has a history that could turn it into a dining circus. Yet it has avoided these pitfalls, thanks to a meticulous remodel and the stylish American menu created by Levi Mezick.

The house, one of the oldest adobes in California, was owned by John Stokes, a deserter from the British navy who masqueraded for years as a pharmacist and physician. His charade allegedly killed many people.

In 1856, Stokes installed a kiln to bake bread and roast meat, which is now a centerpiece of the menu. In 1948, one of the house's inhabitants, Martha Harriet Gragg, known as Hattie, died in the home; her bedroom is now a dining room, and some claim her ghost still inhabits the space - occasionally doors on the bookcases in the room open seemingly by themselves.

The building has been a restaurant since 1950. For 30 years, it was Gallatin's; in 1996, it became Stokes Adobe. It took several years for the new owners, Rob Weakley and David Bernahl, to refurbish and restore the place. And they've done a magnificent job of paying homage to the past while keeping the experience current.

The courtyard of the two-story structure includes four fire pits that are used year round. Off to one side of the patio is a magnificent oak tree that's at least 150 years old; during much of the meticulous remodel, an arborist was on site to make sure the tree wasn't damaged.

Several dining areas

There are seven distinct dining areas, each with a different feel. Patrons enter the restaurant through a small vestibule and the lounge, which resembles a library. The marble-topped bar fronts a wall of liquor; above is a dining mezzanine that feels private and intimate, with tufted leather booths that overlook the action below.

The main dining room features paned windows covered with leafy plantings that recall a solarium, with comfortable white upholstered chairs and wood tables. A similar room upstairs affords a broad view of the neighborhood that contains many original adobe structures.

The owners' experience - they also own the Cannery Row Brewing Co. and Coastal Luxury Management, and put on the Pebble Beach Food and Wine Classic - shows in their attention to detail: Woven mats in front of each place setting ensure the flatware never sits on the bare table; old-fashioned mirrors act as coasters for wine chosen from the impressive list; and an oyster shell is used to hold the cork.

Throughout the night the staff gives tours of the restaurant, reciting facts and figures like trained guides. This would be enough to bring in the tourist crowd, but the owners are conscientiously catering to locals.

They also happen to be offering the best casual food in Monterey, under chef Levi Mezick. Before coming to the area last year, Mezick worked in New York as sous chef at Daniel and executive sous chef at Cafe Boulud. He also worked at Oceana and Per Se. His refined cooking pedigree is spectacularly showcased at 1833.

I first ate at 1833 in August, only a few weeks after the restaurant opened, and returned recently for two more dinners.

Mezick's menu runs the gamut from homey bacon cheddar biscuits ($4) and deviled eggs with lemon and horseradish ($4), to a precisely arranged beet salad ($12) on a mat of Greek yogurt with lacy mache dressed with dots of balsamic and whole hazelnuts. Each meal begins with a complimentary shot glass of soup such as smoked tomato or gingered carrot with kaffir lime.

Fresh surprises

While preparations are straightforward, each dish has a surprise element or two that keep it fresh. For the iceberg salad ($10), the chef cuts the chilled lettuce into a thick, round slice and tops it with blue cheese, candied walnuts and slices of Granny Smith apple processed in an immersion bath with Riesling. They come out translucent, somewhat crunchy, and infused with the flavor of the wine.

The chef's crispy egg ($13) looks like a breaded billiard ball, nesting in spinach and a tartare sauce made with cornichons, surrounded by fleshy strips of sauteed Royal Trumpet mushrooms. When the egg is pierced, the yolk mingles with the other ingredients.

Gnocchi ($22) too are some of the best around; they're like little potato clouds blanketed with a rich Parmesan cream that carries the flavor of the steely Swiss chard and the earthy chanterelle mushrooms. Thin rings of pickled onions scattered on top add a startling, refreshing contrast that makes this dish a standout.

In fact the only item that didn't make the cut for me was the fettuccine ($19), where the noodles were rolled into a log in the center of the plate, surrounded and topped with mushrooms, shards of cured duck and petals of confit tomatoes. There seemed to be little or no sauce, so the pasta was dry and the elements never came together.

I also skipped the pizza. There are three on the menu, but the toppings sounded a little esoteric - one with pineapple and sopressata ($16), another with wild mushrooms, prosciutto and a poached egg ($17); and the other with crab, peppers, leeks, and wholegrain mustard ($17). These are not my idea of great toppings, and I had so many other things to try.

Strong main courses

Main courses are carefully crafted, including a thick fillet of grilled swordfish ($26) with balsamic vinaigrette and shaved fennel, topping broccoli rabe and surrounded by pearl onions and Castelvetrano olives. A grilled pork chop ($25) comes in two presentations on the same heated platter - on one side Mezick arranges the sliced loin with grits, and on the other is a fine mince of collard greens and ham hock topped with pork belly. The sides are brought together by a scattering of huckleberries.

Mezick also makes use of the wood oven with several roasts: an exceptional 32-ounce bone-in rib eye for two ($75), a whole truffle chicken ($38) that rivals Zuni Cafe's, and a roasted lobe of foie gras ($150). Sides (all $5) include rich, gooey macaroni and cheese, and caramelized roasted cauliflower.

Desserts (all $8) are good, but lack the finesse and refinement of what precedes them. There's a clumsy house-made stack of s'mores with a graham cracker pancake, marshmallow fluff and ganache that sounds better than it tastes. The mixed-berry shortcake seems to have missed the season, and apple millefeuille, which I loved on one visit, was sodden on another. The best was the Booker's butter bourbon pudding served with five crisp palmiers.

The only touristy element of the experience is the service. You can tell that the staff is trained, but there are a few rogue aspects. On one visit, for example, we asked for ice water, but the waiter brought bottled water. Then, without asking, he brought a second bottle, which added $12 to the bill. He also removed a drink before we were finished, and then asked if we wanted another. For all his attempts to increase the check, he didn't mention that the chicken came with no sides, so we had only a platter of chicken in front of us.

If we'd encountered this behavior on the first visit, I might have been reluctant to return and branded it as a tourist trap. But, after three visits, I realized that's not the case. Instead, 1833 is a restaurant fueled by passion.

The wine list

The spirits offerings at 1833 are so extensive you might think you're walking into a high-end liquor store. But when you look at the wine list, you might think you're looking at a Christie's auction catalog.

This is a beverage list designed to impress in both wine and cocktail service.

At one end of the bar is a row of wooden barrels where the staff is aging Negronis - a blend of vermouth, Campari and gin - and agave blends. On the counter behind the bar is a contraption that captures smoke to give a toasty edge to certain cocktails. In the dining room, there's tableside service for hot buttered rum ($10) and an absinthe cart that serves traditional preparations of this once-banned spirit.

The cocktails reference the impostor physician who owned the house, listed as Pain Killers, Stress Relievers, Elixirs and Aphrodisiacs (all $10). Nearly 40 scotches are available, and about as many bourbons and Tequilas.

The wine list isn't neglected, either; in fact, the number of Champagnes and sparkling wines alone is larger than the entire wine list of many casual restaurants. There are nearly 50, including some impressive vintage offerings such as 1955 Veuve Cliquot ($6,000 for 1.5 liters) and 1997 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger ($470).

In more affordable offerings, you'll find some exceptional current vintages of still wines on the 20 page-plus list that's well organized and fairly priced. While there are many international finds, local wines are also a focus, including 17 Pinot Noirs from the Santa Lucia Highlands with producers such as Pelerin, Talbot, Roar and Pisoni.

In addition, there are 25 wines by the glass and half-glass. Beers are well chosen, but don't have the depth of the other offerings. Still, you can find Delerium Tremens ($9), Lost Abbey Carnevale from San Diego ($14 for 750 ml) and Anchor Steam ($5).

If you bring your own wine, corkage is $20.

Michael Bauer is The Chronicle's restaurant critic. E-mail him at mbauer@sfchronicle.com, and go to sfgate.com/food to read his previous reviews. Find his blog daily at insidescoopsf.com, and follow him on Twitter at @michaelbauer1.