But for those not familiar with Wiechmann’s cooking, we recommend you try torrijas, a more succulent Spanish version of French toast. At T.W., it’s made from thick slices of brioche, lightly soaked in oloroso sherry — a dark, fragrant fortified wine — and fried just to crisp the crust and leave the interior puddingy. Soft and voluptuous, torrijas are served with wine-poached apricots and warm maple syrup — the warming makes a big difference in flavor and texture — resulting in a rich burst of caramel, fruit and hints of wine.

The magnolia-painted walls, pale-gray seats, exposed brick and white linens are a simple backdrop to Wiechmann’s sophisticated take on Euro- pean rustic cooking. Try golden scrambled eggs are topped with black wild mushrooms. Or the cheese panini and smoked Kobe brisket hash with deep-fried tongue fritters, topped with poached eggs. Still, the torrijas are a hard act to follow.