John Forrest Backman sculpts penguins from eggplants, roses from tomatoes, ribbons out of leeks and watermelon-skin leaves.

As a cook aboard the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Fir, Food Service Specialist 2nd Class Backman enjoys the freedom and creativity of his job, “the ability to put myself into a meal, to make what I want.”

“The possibilities,” he said, “are endless.”

It’s one of the most demanding jobs on board the ships, yet one of the most underrated. Taking a break when seasick isn’t an option for the cooks, and they often cater parties or other events. They also contend with long hours, limited space, a crew’s changing tastes and tumultuous weather.