In Indian Mexico (1908) eBook

The fiesta at Milta should have been a three
days’ affair. This year, however, it began
on Sunday with the result that it filled four days.
Reaching there in the afternoon of Monday, we found
the whole town in great excitement and dissipation.
The plaza had been enclosed with a fencing
of poles, and toros were the amusement of the
afternoon. The country sports with bulls are
different from the regular bull-fights of the cities.
Any one takes part who pleases, and while there is
little of trained skill, there is often much of fun,
frolic, and daring. The bull is led into the
ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed
from behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which
it is firmly tied to prevent its moving. A rope
is then tightly cinched about its middle and a man
mounts upon the back of the beast, fixing his feet
firmly in the rope below, between it and the animal,
and winding his hands into it above. The ropes
which hold the bull are then withdrawn so as to set
it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets
and serapes, then torment the beast, which,
plunging and dashing at them, scatters them in every
direction. Sometimes the angry animal attempts
to break through the fence, causing excitement and
consternation among the crowds who have been hanging
to it and looking over. When, as sometimes happens,
he does break through, there is great scattering before
him, and closing in behind him, until he is again
captured. The man riding on the bull’s
back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging
and other frantic efforts of the animal to unseat
him; comparatively few stay long in their uncomfortable
position, and when they are thrown, much agility is
required to escape from the furious animal.

[Illustration: IN TLACOLULA]

[Illustration: TYPICAL ZAPOTEC HOUSE; TLACOLULA]

As we rode into town these sports were in full blast;
everyone, save the bull-fighters, was drunk.
Now and then a tube of iron filled with powder was
exploded. A band in front of the municipal house
was supplying music. A little group of men with
pitos and tambours strolled from place
to place, playing. Much selling was in progress
in the booths, the chief articles offered being intoxicating
drinks. A cluster of drunken vocalists, sitting
flat upon the ground, but almost unable to hold themselves
upright, were singing horribly to untuned guitars.
In front of the town-house a bench had been dragged
out by the authorities for the benefit of the cura,
who, seated thereon, was watching the sports with
maudlin gravity. The presidente and other
officials were standing by the padre, and all
were drinking at frequent intervals. Thinking
the moment opportune, I approached the party and handed
them my documents; but both presidente and
priest were far too drunk to realize my needs.
Surveying the drunken town, I felt that it was necessary
to act promptly and firmly if we were to accomplish