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Is the 6 speed stronger than the gear set you were running before? Those were some pretty beefy gears, especially with the straight cut 1&2. I did see that the reason you did the swap was the differentials. Just curious how the gearboxes compare in strength.

Is the 6 speed stronger than the gear set you were running before? Those were some pretty beefy gears, especially with the straight cut 1&2. I did see that the reason you did the swap was the differentials. Just curious how the gearboxes compare in strength.

I'm not sure what it runs in the 1/4. They're still playing with I think, they certainly haven't wrung it out to its maximum levels yet tho.

Yeah I know about that car, it's insane! Haha thing is the 2.5L isn't as reliable at those high rpms as the 2.3L will be over time, I think the 2.5L needs more beefing up to be able to handle those high rpms than the 2.3L as well if I'm not mistaken.

You think the 6spd is only as strong as the PAR gearset? That's interesting, I was always under the impression that the 6spd was absolutely bulletproof, and that the 5spds just can't handle the power the 6spd can. Though I guess that could be just due to the shorter ratios/less force on the individual gear itself?

MP/ Doms configuration is awesome, and definitely respectable in everyway. That car will be an absolute blast. My thoughts, and possibly similar to Ben's...

Does it become feasible to completely alter the car with a stroked motor to achieve the desired power(band) goals? The prevelance of quick spooling, high power delivering turbos is reality. Especially with e85, 450-500whp is relatively quick work. If the budget is there, 550+whp is a necessity, the power band of the motor is applicable.... do anything and everything possible that's desired.

I am perfectly content with a short block and ~ 3.5k-7.5k power band. Realistically, other priorities/ obligations come into play with something as in depth as that build. Few years... Different story.

*Knowing Ben, there'd be a stroked motor sitting on his photo table sharing beverages with him and no one would know.

MP/ Doms configuration is awesome, and definitely respectable in everyway. That car will be an absolute blast. My thoughts, and possibly similar to Ben's...

Does it become feasible to completely alter the car with a stroked motor to achieve the desired power(band) goals? The prevelance of quick spooling, high power delivering turbos is reality. Especially with e85, 450-500whp is relatively quick work. If the budget is there, 550+whp is a necessity, the power band of the motor is applicable.... do anything and everything possible that's desired.

I am perfectly content with a short block and ~ 3.5k-7.5k power band. Realistically, other priorities/ obligations come into play with something as in depth as that build. Few years... Different story.

*Knowing Ben, there'd be a stroked motor sitting on his photo table sharing beverages with him and no one would know.

I agree with a lot of this. While that car is an absolutely blast, I think that as a DD it wouldn't be nearly as a feasible nor as fun as bens current setup. I would much rather a lower power output, but have power almost 2K rpms sooner, then have a lot more power but onlu starting to kick in at 5K. Completely unusable in 99% of DD activities, unless your commute involves a lot of highway driving.

Doms car is a more of a track only/drag strip kinda car, as he himself has said many times, but when it comes to that subject area, its a monster

MP/ Doms configuration is awesome, and definitely respectable in everyway. That car will be an absolute blast. My thoughts, and possibly similar to Ben's...

Does it become feasible to completely alter the car with a stroked motor to achieve the desired power(band) goals? The prevelance of quick spooling, high power delivering turbos is reality. Especially with e85, 450-500whp is relatively quick work. If the budget is there, 550+whp is a necessity, the power band of the motor is applicable.... do anything and everything possible that's desired.

I am perfectly content with a short block and ~ 3.5k-7.5k power band. Realistically, other priorities/ obligations come into play with something as in depth as that build. Few years... Different story.

*Knowing Ben, there'd be a stroked motor sitting on his photo table sharing beverages with him and no one would know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by J_Maher_WRX

I agree with a lot of this. While that car is an absolutely blast, I think that as a DD it wouldn't be nearly as a feasible nor as fun as bens current setup. I would much rather a lower power output, but have power almost 2K rpms sooner, then have a lot more power but onlu starting to kick in at 5K. Completely unusable in 99% of DD activities, unless your commute involves a lot of highway driving.

Doms car is a more of a track only/drag strip kinda car, as he himself has said many times, but when it comes to that subject area, its a monster

Haha. I don't have a destroked motor waiting for me. I don't ever plan on doing one. For a high revving track car it could make sense, but I wouldn't want to loose the spool and low end grunt of higher displacement on a street car. If you properly balance and assemble a 2.5L it can handle 9k with some amount of reliability. NF's Speeding Bullet is a street car with a much larger turbo than the MP/Dom car. It has TONS of top end potential, but it still quite usable even off the track.

What you're saying is basically true but there are some other things to consider. It's the distribution of the weight that really matters. If the CF shaft were large enough diameter, and hollow (all the weight at the perimeter) it could actually be harder to turn that a smaller, solid, heavier shaft. This would all depend on the actual weights and measurements though. In general the CF shaft would almost always end up being easier to turn.

The distribution of weight basically is the polar moment of inertia, and the aluminum shafts are hollow, just like the CF. The aluminum ones are often bigger that the CF ones just for the sake of torsional stiffness, since aluminum has only 1/3rd the stiffness of steel.

I have no idea how much the inertia difference really translates into real-world difference, but on paper, in concept, it certainly begs one to look at more than just the weight.

To be honest, I'm really most interested in any one-piece DS just for the sake of ditching the two-piece design that bucks like crazy sometimes. I'd say your car definitely deserves a CF DS.

Yeah, that middle section of the 2 piece has so much play. With all the upgraded mounts it does seem much less though. Is installation more difficult with the 1 piece? Or does the u-joint at the rear end make it pretty easy to get it all lined up?

Yeah, that middle section of the 2 piece has so much play. With all the upgraded mounts it does seem much less though. Is installation more difficult with the 1 piece? Or does the u-joint at the rear end make it pretty easy to get it all lined up?

I don't have one yet, but I hear it's easy as hell to do. The bolted end just drops down flush. No need to move it forward or back at all. I've spent most of my modding budget trying to just tighten up the drivetrain and make DDing a little less wonky, but I think that's still my next big mod. I want better clutch-feel, smoother downshifts and a larger margin of error with rev matching. I hear a one-piece delivers on all accounts.

I've had the OEM driveshaft on and off many times, and it's really easy. The only thing that I'm worried about with the 1 piece is how do you slide it into the tranny if you can't line it up straight, due to it hitting the rear diff. Maybe there is enough wiggle room that it works, I'm not sure. Worst case you could pull the rear diff, install the driveshaft, and then put the rear diff back on, but that's a lot more work.

There is a universal joint at each end. I think you just insert one end into the transmission and then lift the opposite end until it matches up with the bolts on the diff. Once in the transmission there is enough play to move it forward or back to get the rear diff bolts lined up. Been looking at and reading reviews on the carbon fiber ones for a while now. Haven't read any thing bad about them yet

Vibration, more-so with the aluminum ones, seems to be the only concern, and even then, you just undo the bolts, rotate it 90 degrees and try again. One out of the 4 orientations should be perfectly balanced.

I hear lots of people saying it just improves the driveability tremendously.