METHOD FOR PREDICTION OF BAR FORMATION AND MIGRATION

Samuel H. Houston, Robert G. Dean

Abstract

A computational model based on sediment conservation and transport equations is presented. The bottom shear stress associated with breaking waves is the primary forcing function for the model. A breaking wave model is used to calculate distributions of wave height and mean water level setup across the surf zone and the profile elevations are updated at the end of every time step for each grid across the profile. Examples of the model prediction using large wave tank data are presented. The results of the tests are encouraging for the prediction of bar formation and migration.