TommyJames337

TommyJames337

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Membro dal 15/11/2009

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1

Howdy everyone!

It's my hobby to buy broken Apple products and refurbish them for reselling. I started a long time ago in junior high with my 1999 Lombard PowerBook G3 when iFixit.com was pbfixit.com! It's been a blast teaching myself through experience the Jedi ways of troubleshooting Apples. If one thing's for certain, it's that learning is constant.

I have been working as a circuit board technician and junior engineer R2Sonic, LLC since August 2010, and it's been an incredible educational process as well, particularly for repairing Apple circuit boards on the component level.

I believe we should all meet our challenges without trepidation and filled with excitement. That's what drives me, and I love that iFixit is a great place for us engineers and tinkerers to do just that.

Risposte

Okay guys! I finally solved my own problem, thanks to some minor research that keyed me into believing the circuitry on the home button flex cable was the problem. I reopened my iPad (after a considerable amount of time mentally preparing for the agonizing task), installed my original Apple home button from my original broken digitizer, and it completely fixed the problem! Apparently the tiny amount of circuitry on that flex cable is responsible for recognizing when the Smart Cover is closed and open. Thus, if you want your iPad to function correctly with a Smart Cover, and you don't want it to lock your iPad when it's laying flush against the back of the iPad, I recommend always transferring the original Apple home button to the new digitizer. The cheap OEM parts that you can buy on eBay are always fraught with problems. It's possible that 90% of the time an OEM digitizer from eBay will come with a perfectly normal home button. But Simon and I probably both ended up with bad ones. If you can salvage the home...

Usually, the backlight fuse always gets blown. Replacing F9700 ought to do the trick. There should be roughly 10-12.4V on both sides of the fuse if it's working properly. If it was blown, you'll get no voltage on one side of it. Thus, the backlight will not activate. The fuse looks something like this image. In terms of the MagSafe problem, I would just clean everything up with denatured alcohol. Make sure everything's clean and there isn't any gunk between the contacts.

It is unfortunately very common for people to damage either their display cables or the actual display cable connector on the logic board. I can only speculate because I cannot examine it myself, but I would be willing to bet that you accidentally damaged the connector on the logic board, which could possibly require professional soldering skills to repair. Does the connector look damaged at all? If the connector looks fine, try to examine the pins inside it. Are any of them bent or out of place? If you look at the guide to remove the display, iFixit warns that the display data cable and display data connector are very easy to damage, and in the comments below, other people agree.

The part is not the actual proximity sensor itself, it is simply a part for aligning it. You can go to the repair guide step by clicking here. It can easily fall out after you remove the earpiece. I hope this helps!

To avoid the passcode lock, you must hard reset your iPhone by holding down the lock button and the home button down simultaneously until the iPhone turns off. Press and hold the home button while the iPhone is off and plug it into your Mac while still holding the home button down. The iPhone will turn on by itself when it is plugged it, but because you are holding the home button down, it will boot up in Recovery Mode. iTunes will say "iTunes has detected an iPhone in Recovery Mode. You must restore it." It is now okay to release the home button. Procede to restore your iPhone to factory settings, and then you may select a backup to restore it to after it has been erased. Hope this helps! It's been a while since I've done it. Let me know if you need clarification on the steps. :)

Okay you guys! After months and months of trying, I have found the true solution to the overheating graphics card. I was right with my initial hypothesis. It was indeed the heat sink. I was mislead for months because the heat sink I purchased initially to test my theory was also malfunctioning in the exact same way. But after isolating literally EVERY part in the iMac, buying a new logic board, and purchasing 5 new graphics cards (without heat sinks) to no avail, I finally decided it must actually be the heat sink, and it absolutely is. I believe the failure is relatively common or the heat sinks are pretty easy to damage because it is rather surprising that I would purchase one and have it malfunction in the exact same way. So, when you get your heat sink, be sure to handle it gently! It might just break the same way. It's incredibly uncommon for heat sinks to fail in general, so it really surprises me that this did turn out to be the solution. But I suppose there must be a weakness somewhere in the design o...

Howdy! The power supply should have these voltages: All unlabeled pins have 0V. These are the voltages I get without having the display attached. I imagine the pin above the 2.6V one probably has some voltage when the LCD is installed, but with the LCD installed, I'm not sure how someone would measure the voltages. It'd be awfully hard to get your voltmeter probes in there. haha

I am having the exact same issue that Darren has, and I just bought a new GPU, and it didn't solve the problem. It's almost indisputably a logic board problem, but the logic board looks beautiful under a microscope. Can't find anything wrong with it physically. I'll keep looking. If anything comes up, I will post it here.

More than anything else, it sounds to me like the connector where the cable connects to the logic board is probably bad. If you're noticing something this consistent, it's more likely that a pin in the connector was bent, or the cables aren't making a full connection. If the connector on the logic board is damaged, there's nothing much you can do unless you have access to a Microscope and very very fine soldering equipment.

First, completely power down your iPad. You must be extremely careful, but you will have to use a drill bit fine enough and drill out the piece stuck in the port. Go VERY slowly and don't force the drill in. You want to avoid drilling through the bottom of the headphone port. Once the piece in the port is drilled up, it should fall out. Just make sure the drill's diameter is dramatically smaller than the port, avoid hitting the insides of the port, and don't push through the bottom. When you're done drilling, the dust and loose metal bits should fall out. Make sure you blow all the metal particles out from the inside of the port. You ought to wear safety goggles, too. Getting metal particles in your eyes is not a good thing. I've done drill-out repairs like this before. If you're careful and steady with your hands, it should only take a few minutes. :)

Commenti Guida

I'm surprised that the speakers are being criticized in this teardown. Contrarily, it seems that Apple spent a lot of time designing the new iPad 2 speakers because their sound quality far outmatches that of the iPad 1. The wholesome qualities of it just blew me away when my brother and I compared his iPads. And we though the iPad 1 had great speakers! We were wrong compared to this new iPad! :)

i got the same problem. i did notice a small rectangular magnet (with glue on one side) came loose inside the case --not the round one on top of one screw close to the screen. perhaps, this has something to do with it?... please post if you find out the solution(s).

Yes. The rectangular magnet, like in the iBook G3s is supposed to sit underneath the palm rest casing piece. I just bought a broken one only to find that it is missing this piece, and therefore having the same issue. It should be noted to make sure that the piece goes back in when you take it apart as it is with the iBook G3 Fixit Guide. I was surprised to see that this one did not note that problem.