The scene: In recent years, dozens of places have sprung up nationwide claiming to make authentic Neopolitan pizza under the regulations of the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), or Real Neapolitan Pizza Association, a group that essentially licenses pizzerias worldwide and tries to preserve the strict pizza-making traditions of Naples, birthplace of the food. Before this trend, restaurants all over rolled out “New York-style” pizzas, and chains like California Pizza Kitchen took California-style pizza nationwide. But as far as I know, in spreading the pizza gospel, no one has ever attempted anything quite so audacious as Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco’s North Beach neighborhood.