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Normally I have to say No, cause the system is designed to click into theses intervals.

I tried to set it to 5°. When you move slowly preventing the rotator to click into the next step, you can fix it to 5°. The knob is fixing earlier, the rotator does not close in the same way as on the 15° steps. It holds the upper rotator in a similar way the NN5 did. I have to check wether this is changing LRS, plus how long this will stand. But this is at your own risk.

The extra 5/7.5/10° upper rail settings only change the "start" position by opening up the screw of the upper rail and replacing the two knobs of the upper rotator to the 5/7.5/10° intern rotator position ( see extra pics on e-store ). After changing the rail position — 10° — you have to adapt the "degree ring" to 10° to 0° mark with the small hex screw. But then, stops change with 15° intervals: 10, 25, 40 etc. This means: you only change the start position and then go on by 15° intervals.

Thanks guys - you told me what I was expecting to hear but not what I wanted to hear.

Are the upper arms of the NN4 and NN5 interchangeable and does Fanotec/NN sell just the upper parts I'd need to get the detent features of the NN5 on my NN4, or does this even make sense?

It seems odd to me that higher resolution detent rings are offered for the lower rotor and we're stuck at 15 degrees on the upper.

NN4/5 upper rotators are not interchangeable.
the upper rotator has 15 deg, because of 3/2 aspect ratio in SLRs, the lower rotator will need 10 deg interval. But then you can use more overlap with smaller interval. when you are making stereo (3D) panoramas with NPP offset from rotation axis, you need much finer interval to reduce stitching errors.
reference: http://www.nodalninja.com/forum/show...heye-lens-quot
To get smaller interval with positive lock, you need the Ultimate M1 which has 7.5 deg. The M2 under development can support finer interval for lens >400mm in fl.

Hi guys.... well.. I have a little problem... I have been trying so hard to stitch my bracketed fused pano images using Photomatix when I hit a snag... In PTGui they stitch mostly very well but in apg they don't... It appears that one of the Moderators suggested that my shooting pattern is not suitable for the equipment I have.... I am using a D90 with a 10.5 fisheye lens.. He suggests I put my pitch down to 12 degrees X 6 round and one Zenith... Sounds fine but I cannot do 12 down since the NN4 will not let me... So I have to do 15 down + one zenith but then on a DX camera, since its not full frame, it leaves gaps in the image... So I have to do 6 X 15 down and 6 X +15 without a zenith.. Again in PTGui it stitches fine but in apg it will not... Probably due to too much overlap, not sure... apg does not like too much overlap... Any suggestions....

Hi guys.... well.. I have a little problem... I have been trying so hard to stitch my bracketed fused pano images using Photomatix when I hit a snag... In PTGui they stitch mostly very well but in apg they don't... It appears that one of the Moderators suggested that my shooting pattern is not suitable for the equipment I have.... I am using a D90 with a 10.5 fisheye lens.. He suggests I put my pitch down to 12 degrees X 6 round and one Zenith... Sounds fine but I cannot do 12 down since the NN4 will not let me... So I have to do 15 down + one zenith but then on a DX camera, since its not full frame, it leaves gaps in the image... So I have to do 6 X 15 down and 6 X +15 without a zenith.. Again in PTGui it stitches fine but in apg it will not... Probably due to too much overlap, not sure... apg does not like too much overlap... Any suggestions....

Destiny.....

Are you sure 6 X 15 down and a zenith does not work?
You can also try 6 X 10 down and a zenith. Remove the upper rail from the rotator. Install it again with the anti-twist part to sockets labeled 5 deg which will give you +5 deg or -10 deg. loosen the rotator index ring and set it to 5 deg when the upper rail starts to point up at the horizon.

Hi Nick... Yes.. I am sure... I tried it a few times... I get black gaps in the pano in PTGui and it doesn't like it in apg either... I think a full frame camera would work fine... perhaps if the NNP was perfect it might work, so I will try it again after its all perfect...

Andrew on the kolor forum is suggesting I try -15X6 with +60X3... I tried it and its much better but not much time to try again today.... I can now see my NNP and I its out a bit but not sure which way to move the rail.. Its a backward saw tooth as my husband calls it... so I think I have to move it towards centre.... It looks like this set up might work.... I can only hope.... Its all good in PTGui mostly but not apg.. apg doesn't like too much overlap so its a matter of fining the right setup and then I think it will be fine... If it doesn't then I will do as you suggest with the rail... Hate to take it off since I worry I brake it... Its never been off... Bill put it all together for me so I left it all as he put it.... Once I get it all perfect I can then try fused images again from Photomatix.. but it has to be perfect for this to work...

Hi, all!
I´ve just got my NN4 with D16 rotator and about to setting it up. As I have a Nikon D90 with a 10.5 lens I always shoot -10/-15 degrees set at the upper arm. As this can already be fixed (-10) with this unit I´m trying to do so.
Did I understand right that it has to be set at the 5º hole to get a -10º setting at the upper arm? NOT at the 10º position.

you have to set it to 10°. When you set it to the 0° holes, you have 0° tilt. 5° gives a 5° Pre set etc. After having changed the upper arms position on the rotator, you should as well change the position of the detent ring. Use the very small imbus to loosen the very tiny screw in the ring. Turn it to +10° position and re fix. Now you get the right readings on the ring. The interval will be 15° steps to be added to your preset. So this will be 10°, 25°, 40° etc.

Martin, I think he ment installing to +5º on the rotator, so the holes with 5º on it the basic set up is +5º in "Zero position instead of 0º on the upper arm. Now moving the upper arm downwards with 15º detend interval of the rotator you will reach -10º.

Mounting it to 10º holes, you will end up with -15º. You can do both of it, it depends on what you like, either shooting with -10º, or with -15º.