"I like using two cooking techniques with this dish. You get a crisp, smoky flavoured skin from the grilling and soft, moist flesh from poaching. Wild barramundi has quite an earthy flavour as it resides in the muddy, salty waters of the Northern Territory; but the red wine sauce has a sweetness to it and is an awesome contrast to the fish."

Meanwhile, place fish on a tray, scatter with salt, turn to coat, and stand until fish is lightly salted (10 minutes). Rinse fish under cold water, pat dry with absorbent paper, set aside.

Meanwhile, for gratinated leeks, preheat oven to 180°C. Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add breadcrumbs, stir occasionally until golden (4-6 minutes). Season to taste, then stir through parsley and set aside. Meanwhile, blanch leeks in lightly salted boiling water until just tender (5-10 minutes). Drain, cut into 6cm lengths, brush with Dijon mustard and transfer to a baking dish large enough to fit leeks snugly in a single layer. Scatter with breadcrumbs and bake until golden and leeks are warmed through (4-6 minutes).

Increase oven to 220C. Heat a char-grill pan over high heat, brush fish with oil and grill, skin-side down, until charred and golden (1-2 minutes). Transfer to a shallow baking dish large enough to fit fish snugly, pour in enough chicken stock to half-fill the dish and bake until almost cooked through (10-15 minutes).