Thread: Need some plumbing advice

My 50 gallon tank and steel bands from Plasticmart got here this week. It was exactly what I wanted and what was shown on their website. I definitely recommend them if you're looking for a tank or tank straps. My 79cc (2.5hp) engine from Harbor Freight also got here yesterday. I'm going to mount everything today after I buy my 4 roller pump. On the pump specs it shows that it has 3/4" inlet and outlet ports. My tank however, came with a 1" threaded female outlet on one end. This will be where I install my screen and a ball valve leading to my roller pump inlet. Should I use a 1" hose and at the pump use a 3/4 threaded hose barb that accepts 1" hose??
Next question... On the outlet side of the pump I plan on using a brass tee with one hose leading to my reel and another hose leading to the top of my tank. Regulator/relief will be right on the top of the tank with a pressure gauge. Should the outlet side hose be 3/4 or 1/2? My hose reel is 1/2" (300ft)

You should be able to buy a nylon threaded1"X3/4"barb fitting at Lowes or Tractor supply for your tank. On the outlet end after pump will probably have a 3/4" ball threaded valve cut off. After that install a 3/4" thread X 1/2" barb to accommodate your hose. Use pipe dope for your threads on nylon and tape on brass.

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We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us.

You should be able to buy a nylon threaded1"X3/4"barb fitting at Lowes or Tractor supply for your tank. On the outlet end after pump will probably have a 3/4" ball threaded valve cut off. After that install a 3/4" thread X 1/2" barb to accommodate your hose. Use pipe dope for your threads on nylon and tape on brass.

I'm not sure if I understand correctly. On the pump there is one outlet. It's 3/4" threaded (female). I will be installing a Tee made out of brass at this location. The Tee will enable me to run a hose from my pump to my tank and another hose from my pump to the hose reel. To regulate how much of the pressure goes to the reel, I will be installing a bypass/regulator on the top of the tank where the hose that comes from the pump will connect to. I need to know what size hose to use on the inlet side of the pump and also what size hose to use on the outlet side (where the Tee will be installed).

The reason I don't think I'm following you is if I use a hose barb on the outlet side of the pump, that will enable me to run a hose to the reel, but not to the regulator which will be on top of the tank going into a bulkhead.

I may be misunderstanding your situation. Here goes: From your tank (female thread) install a reducer (male Threaded 1" to a barbed 3/4") attach your hose 3/4" to your roller pump with another barbed to 3/4" male thread. From the pump with another 3/4" threaded male to a 3/4" barbed fitting to your manifold. All 3/4" plumbing. I like these rather than a T fitting because you can mount it and then go to your by-pass regulator or any other type. On another stem from you can have your line to your reel. Manifolds let you adapt any number of fitting or another for a clean-out. Rather simple install. With the regulator on one of the manifold stems it will let you regulate the pressure as it goes to your reel. I have my gauge on the manifold and another at the boom end with a regulator to maintain even pressure. Rittenhouse has these. Give it some thought. Your tee will work but does not give you the advantages to adding. You can get brass reducers from 1" to 3/4" with male threads and female on the inside. From there it should be a piece of cake. Make sure that you use nylon take as your pump is cast iron and brass fitting are dis-similar metals and could gauld. Another reason to use nylon fittings instead of brass.

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We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us.

That's it so far. I still have to go buy my 4-roller pump which is about $100 at TSC. Still have to buy the 5/8 to 5/8 engine/pump shaft coupler and whatever I'll need to shim the pump to the correct engine shaft height as well. I'll either mount it on the opposite side of the skid as the reel or directly under the reel. The reason the skid extends beyond the tank is because I planned on adding another 50 gallon tank. I haven't ordered it yet though and after installing this one I'm not sure there's enough room for it.

Sorry to have slightly different ideas, LDH. My suggestions: Use reducer bushing at the tank outlet to install a 3/4" hose barb, then install an inline filter to protect the pump and reel, then use 3/4 tubing to enter the pump.
On the outlet side you need a 3/4 inch pipe cross. Fluid enters one side. Opening 2 connects to the reel (you need a reducer to accomodate the half-inch reel hose.) Opening 3 connects to the pressure relief valve. Opening 4 connects to the bypass (agitation) hose which in turn tees into the tube downstream from the pressure relief valve. The bypass hose allows you to start with the pump not under load and allows you to direct all the output to the tank for agitation, when needed. You were planning on an agitation nozzle in the bottom of the tank, were you not? http://www.gemplers.com/docs/IS/162403CHART.pdf
Notice that the pump has a cast iron body--not recommended for Roundup, which is acidic, I guess, (probably short periods of time are OK. )

Notice that at factory new condition, at 150 lbs pressure you only get 5 gals per minute output, and it takes more power. Keep in mid you lose about 10 percent for each 100 feet due to friction in the hose.

Not all roller pumps use a pressure relief valve--maybe someone else can comment on whether or not one is needed. Perhaps you just need to close the agitation valve part way.
If you mount the motor and pump under the reel--which is fine--be sure to put a roof or cover over the pump. You don't want herbicide and fertilizer dripping off the wet hose onto the pump and your brand new motor--nor rain.
Be sure to accomodate how to add, check and drain oil for changes. How to fill gas. And how to pull the starter rope. And clearance to change worn pump rollers.
With my setup for easier rope pulls, I used a pulley attached to the reel; this allowed me to use a longer starter rope and brought the rubber handle up to just over waist high.

You want an air gap fill tube on top of your tank for back flow prevention. Required by law in some areas.

Sorry to have slightly different ideas, LDH. My suggestions: Use reducer bushing at the tank outlet to install a 3/4" hose barb, then install an inline filter to protect the pump and reel, then use 3/4 tubing to enter the pump.
On the outlet side you need a 3/4 inch pipe cross. Fluid enters one side. Opening 2 connects to the reel (you need a reducer to accomodate the half-inch reel hose.) Opening 3 connects to the pressure relief valve. Opening 4 connects to the bypass (agitation) hose which in turn tees into the tube downstream from the pressure relief valve. The bypass hose allows you to start with the pump not under load and allows you to direct all the output to the tank for agitation, when needed. You were planning on an agitation nozzle in the bottom of the tank, were you not? http://www.gemplers.com/docs/IS/162403CHART.pdf
Notice that the pump has a cast iron body--not recommended for Roundup, which is acidic, I guess, (probably short periods of time are OK. )

Notice that at factory new condition, at 150 lbs pressure you only get 5 gals per minute output, and it takes more power. Keep in mid you lose about 10 percent for each 100 feet due to friction in the hose.

Not all roller pumps use a pressure relief valve--maybe someone else can comment on whether or not one is needed. Perhaps you just need to close the agitation valve part way.
If you mount the motor and pump under the reel--which is fine--be sure to put a roof or cover over the pump. You don't want herbicide and fertilizer dripping off the wet hose onto the pump and your brand new motor--nor rain.
Be sure to accomodate how to add, check and drain oil for changes. How to fill gas. And how to pull the starter rope. And clearance to change worn pump rollers.
With my setup for easier rope pulls, I used a pulley attached to the reel; this allowed me to use a longer starter rope and brought the rubber handle up to just over waist high.

You want an air gap fill tube on top of your tank for back flow prevention. Required by law in some areas.

Thanks for the reply. I agree with you on having an additional agitation line teeing into the bypass line for when starting the engine. I will definitely install one. As for the roller pump, it's just a cheap "throw away" tool for now. If business picks up where I secure a larger clientele base I will upgrade to another diaphram pump. Honda with D30 or D403 if that ends up being the case. As for now, I spent $116 on the engine, $100 on the roller pump, which brings me to just a little over $200 to get myself into a gas engine setup. The roller pump is cast iron and definitely cheap, but it's better than a 12 volt and alot cheaper than a D30. If I have to throw it away and replace it with a new one once a year or even twice a year until I can build my clientele base up I'm ok with that. At $100 I can do 2 applications and literally pay for the pump. That's my outlook on it. If I end up with alot of customers then I'll definitely need to step up on pump quality. But then again, if I end up with alot of customers I'll be generating the income to be able to buy a Honda/diaphram. Let's hope that ends up being the case
I posted above about an air gap device. Any ideas on where I can order one? I thought about making my own out of pvc but would rather order one.