A little-known vegetable with homely looks, is a winter favorite of discerning chefs

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Celeriac, or celery root, is a knobby brown lump with whorled rootlets that can often be found languishing in the darkest corner of the produce section. It is a relative of the celery stalks we all know, not their actual root. In season from September through May, celeriac is much loved in Europe, where it's a star of cold-weather cuisine. Cooks like its unusual, complex flavor (a subtle blend of celery and parsley) and its distinctive herbaceous scent (similar to that of truffles).

Often used in soups (such as the hearty vegetarian potage here) and gratins, celeriac can also be puréed with potatoes for a deliciously different side dish. And it shows up in salads, raw and cooked. Monica Pope, the chef-owner of T'afia restaurant in Houston, treasures celeriac for many reasons, including its texture: "It's not too hard or soft and it takes on a lot of flavors." Her celeriac and carrot salad is at once homey (due to the root vegetables) and luxurious (due to its judicious use of white truffle oil)—and altogether irresistible.

To make the dressing, briefly toast coriander seeds in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat (this will take only about 3 seconds—be careful not to let them burn). Remove and crush seeds. Add seeds to other dressing ingredients, whisk together until emulsified, and set aside.

Peel celeriac and carrots and cut into finger-long, finger-wide sticks. Blanch in salted boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain.

While still warm, toss in a stainless-steel bowl with 1/2 cup of the cilantro-coriander dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

In a large soup pot over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add onion and shallots and cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add carrot and celery and cook for another 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add potato and celeriac and cook for an additional 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add endive and thyme and stir to coat.

Add stock to cover (add more if you prefer a more liquid soup). Stir in salt and bring to a boil. Then cover and simmer until potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes.

Remove a cup of soup, purée, and then stir back into pot along with the cream, to thicken.

Divide chives and parsley between bowls once soup has been served. Serve with croutons. Or, for a hearty meal, serve with country bread and aged Gruyère or Comte cheese. Serves 4.