I gather that things didn't go quite the way you had planned when you stuck the bulkheads in place . a heat lamp and a putty knife may be your best bet to clean up the flood. I've been known to glue a bit of paper over holes to seal them up.
a note about skewers(which one can find at the grocery store), during the summer one can also find marshmellon skewers for toasting them over bonfires, the ones I found are 36" long.
Rex

After a short break I am back on the WI-ROC build.
It's time to apply some fiberglass reinforcement to the fins.
The 3 plywood fins included in the WI-ROC have pre-beveled edges. This is an awesome feature that assures aerodynamic regularity of the shape on all of the fins. The application of FIBERGLASS CLOTH and the ZEE-POXY FINISHING RESIN adds structural strength. The fiberglass is not a requirement but I added it to the build process to be consistent with the body tube finish described above. I cut the light weight fiberglass cloth to the basic shape of the fins. After a light coating of the resin on the plywood, I laid the cloth down and smoothed it out using a sponge brush. Then applied a light coat of resin over the cloth. Fiberglassing fins is a process that I don't normally do. So it is actually in keeping with the"experimental" aspect of this build. It's another part of the learning process. I'm glad that I remembered to use vinyl gloves because this is a messy job. I set the fin /tube section aside to cure. I will address the fillets and sanding of the fins next.

Adding FILLETS to the FIN and BODY TUBE joint strengthens and adds a finished quality to any rocket. First, of course, SANDING the fins and body tube is necessary to prepare the surfaces and promote adhesion. I like to use EPOXY with MICRO-BALLOON FILLER for fillets. The MICRO-BALLOONS raise the viscosity of the epoxy and give it a spreadable quality. The combination of the FIBERGLASS applied to the fin and the EPOXY FILLETS should allow these fins to survive all but the hardest impact upon landing. A thin bead of epoxy is placed where the fin and air frame meet . It is then spread and smoothed with an appropriately curved tool. This can be the back of a disposable plastic spoon. In this case, a Popsicle stick was used because of the WI-ROC's relatively small fins. Ideally, the FILLETS should be symmetrical in shape and size and practically unnoticeable.

I am now at the FINISH Stage of the WI-ROC. What that means is I could theoretically fly this rocket this weekend. I've seen a number of rockets flown "naked".
Some rocketeers fly an unpainted model for test purposes. Some hate the finishing process so much that they would just as soon stop right here, leave the rocket at this stage, and not pay any attention to paint. But, for me the build time and effort is not even close to done. I've decided on a color scheme and livery that is one of my favorites. I've used it before on other rockets. Rather than blurting it out right now- I'm gonna just let it develop and show a few of the steps along the way.

After a good coat of GRAY PRIMER is applied and thoroughly dried (24-36 hours) SANDING and SHAPING are again a major part of this stage of production. I had to re-shape the top end of one of the fins leading edge. A little misplaced epoxy during the FILLET process has cured in the wrong place. In reality, the tiny bit of epoxy will not significantly affect the flight, but it doesn't look right, and now's the time to correct it. I used a couple of RAT TAIL FILES to make the adjustment.
I'm always surprised by how the PRIMER COAT brings out tons of surface flaws. No matter how smooth and cool it looks before priming the TRUTH comes out when everthing is in primer. My normal technique is:
medium sand/fill/prime, fine sand/prime, extra fine sand/final prime.
WI-ROC followed that routine.

I use RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT on almost all of my rockets. There's a LOT of debate about which paints are best for gloss, or smooth finish, or dryability etc. I have found that if surfaces and the paint itself is properly prepared, RUSTOLEUM 2X Brand delivers a high solids/high opacity finish. I have, and will again use other paint brands for Special Effects on a given rocket. But for the basic style of the WrE / WI-ROC / 2018 - Rustoleum 2X will work fine.

The WI-ROC is the WISCONSIN ROCKET. It's currently WInter in WIsconsin. I don't have to tell most WOOSHers that WI Winter can be very uncooperative when it comes to spray painting! Over the years I have experimented with different techniques to deal with some of the issues brought on by cold. One thing I almost always do (except in the HEAT of WI Summer) is WARM THE PAINT. I like to do this by using HOT WATER. Because the can will float, a few inches of hot water in the laundry tub provides a safe way to heat the paint within. Shake the can, put it directly under the HOT water coming right out of the tap, let if "soak" in the HOT water in the sink, shake (the hell outta) the can again. This step brings a lot of improvement to the function of the paints chemical characteristics. More on that some other time. Trust me on this one- if properly done, it works.

I put the FIRST COAT of Black on the left side fin surface and the payload/nose cone section.
This will serve asabase for subsequent masking. . . . TO BE CONTINUED

Ok So BLACK AND YELLOW is said to be the most visually recogmizable HIGH CONTRAST COMBINATION. As mentioned above the B/Y combination is one of my favorites. I've used it many times and because WI-ROC is a straight ahead simple design, I'm going with an established livery with a few variations on the theme.
The fins on the left side of WI-ROC were sprayed black (see above) and are first rough masked and then the tape is trimmed to yield 100% coverage.
I use Scotch Brand Blue Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces #2080- readily available, thin paper stock, flexible, clean edges.
I warmed up the RUSTOLEUM 2X YELLOW with hot water, but this time using a bucket which works even better than a laundry sink. Also I like to use a spray can handle, especially for larger rockets. Rustoleum 2X Yellow incorporates a Cadmium sulfide based pigment. It is very light yellow with very high opacity and good permanence. I had no problem covering the black overspray on the body tube with a VERY LIGHT COAT of Yellow over the entire airframe. Using a handle yields a smooth stroke along the full length of the air frame, without finger fatigue from pressing the button manually for extended periods of time. It may sound wimpy but it's a handy tool that i recommend and I like the end results.
Today is Feb. 26, 2018 and it was 53 degrees F. That's as good as we can expect in WI-ROC World in WI-WINTER. What I never expected was that some how a LIVING FLY flew into the garage and landed on the wet paint! I know- what are the chances? Careful removal of the insect was successful . ...TO BE CONTINUED...

The lower YELLOW BOOSTER Section will need another coat of paint. Before spraying I take the shine off of gloss paint. In this case I'm using #0 STEEL WOOL.
The WI-ROC will need to have a dedicated altimeter. I chose the JOLLY LOGIC ALTIMETER 2.
It's a simple altimeter that provides lots of flight data and stores it for 100 flights. The battery is rechargable using USB plugs.
I also ordered a Jolly Logic mounting bracket. I made a plywood platform which is attached with epoxy and screws to the bottom end of the nosecone. The altimeter mount is attached to the plywood with wood screws. The JL2 snaps into the mount. I will probably secure the altimeter in placed with a zip tie. The payload section tube has 6 X 1/8 inch holes for ventilation. There are two vents on the top end about 4.5 inches down. There are 4 more on the lower end. They are evenly spaced around the tube about 4 inches up. This is probably over kill. If the altimeter's accuracy or flight characteristics are negatively effected by all of these little holes I will have to seal a few up.