Category: hiking

The Mission: See as much of Banff National Park as possible in one week!

The Prep: Accommodations fill up quickly in the area so we booked ahead on Airbnb! The town of Banff was a little out of our price range so we opted to stay in Canmore. Canmore is another cute, little town about 30 minutes outside the town of Banff, but much more affordable.

We flew into Calgary and picked up our rental car at the airport, got right on the road and drove the roughly 90 minutes to Banff. This year was the 150th anniversary of the National Parks in Canada and because of this, entry to all the National Parks is FREE!! Woohoo! I registered online in advance and my park pass was sent to me in the mail so we were all set to go through the quick entrance once we arrived at the park. We stopped in the town of Banff and went directly to the visitors center where we picked up some park and trail maps. As it was a bit later in the day already, we decided to do a less crowded, shorter hike; opting to go to Ink Pots.

This 5.8km hike starts at Johnston Creek. There were two parking lots, but they were both full so we parked on the side of the road and headed to the trail. There were restrooms and a small cafe with coffee and ice cream right at the trailhead. The beginning of the trail up the creek was paved which eventually led to a catwalk that is connected to the side of the mountain. With rock on one side and water on the other, this small walkway got fairly congested with a plethora of hikers and baby strollers. Just a little over a kilometer in, we arrived at Lower Falls. We took a few pictures and quickly hiked another 1.6km to Upper Falls. Again, we found it a little too crowded for our tastes so we decided to continue on to the Ink Pots.

Heading up to the Ink Pots, the crowds thinned and the trail was no longer paved. Under a lush forest of trees, we hiked the rolling hills all the way to a valley where we were met with a panoramic view of the mountains. Just a few steps further and the beautiful blue of the ink pots took our breath away. The springs here are unique as they are cold springs around 4 degrees celsius. We stopped here to take a few photos and have some lunch before we took the trail back down to the parking area.

Overall, the Johnston Canyon falls area is great for those with limited hiking ability or families. While we found the falls and creek beautiful, the Ink Pots were much more impressive and worth the extra 3km to see them.

We woke up on day 2 with fresh legs ready to take on a more difficult hike. Wanting to stay away from the crowds, we opted for Sulphur Mountain Trail. This 5.5km trail definitely had us breaking a sweat. The trail winds up the mountains by a series of switchbacks underneath a gondola. With very little reprieve, there was a steeper incline at every turn, but we often stopped to catch our breath and enjoy the view of the Bow Valley below.

It took us roughly 2 hours to reach the top of the mountain where we were met with sweeping panoramic views of the valley below. Other (maybe smarter) people opted to take the gondola to the top of the mountain rather than hike it, but I believe we really enjoyed the view much more having to work for it!

Since there is a gondola to the top of the mountain, it was fairly crowded. There is a large building at the top that offers restrooms, a restaurant, a viewing deck, educational information and even a gift shop. If you opt to take the gondola, the price as of this post was $31 per person each way.

We stopped to have a bite to eat and then continued along a wooden walkway to an old weather tower. It was incredibly windy as this was the highest point of the mountain so we didn’t stay long. We took a few photos and headed back down the trail to the bottom of the mountain.

At the bottom of the trail is Banff Upper Hot Springs, a natural spring, but outfitted as a regular swimming pool. After a strenuous hike, we figured we deserved a treat so we grabbed our swimsuits and towels from the car and soaked our sore muscles in the hot springs for a few hours. The center also offers coin lockers, swimsuits and towels for rent if you don’t have your own!

Sulphur Mountain trail level of difficulty: Strenuous

Day 3:

On day 3 we were ready to check out the grand attraction- Lake Louise. So we set out early and were lucky enough to find a parking spot at the lake. The turquoise blue was immediately breathtaking. We had never seen a lake this color before. Even this early, there were tons of tourists and even brides taking photos all around the lake. We continued walking until we found a sign for Lake Agnes Tea House trail.

The 3.6km trail to the tea house took us uphill through a few switchbacks, past mirror lake, up to a waterfall and then suddenly we were there. A set of wooden stairs took us directly to the tea house on Lake Agnes. I couldn’t think of a more beautiful location to stop and have a cup of tea…but we didn’t! We were eager to continue our journey so we hiked right past the tea house and around the lake where we would hike an additional 1.6km to Big Beehive.

The trail took us all the way to the far end of the lake where we were rewarded with a beautiful reflection of the mountains on the lake and the tea house in the distance. We continued up a set of switchbacks that offered even more impressive views of the lake through the yellow larch trees.

Once at the top, we headed left out to the top of the beehive. We were so surprised when we realized we had a perfect view of Lake Louise below us on one side and Lake Agnes on the other! At the end of the beehive, we found a perfectly placed gazebo where we stopped to have lunch and take in the view of Lake Louise below. If we thought the lake looked magnificent from below, the view from above left us speechless.

After lunch, we decided to head back down. We could go back down the same way we came, but we decided to go the opposite direction for a change in scenery. Some hikers chose to continue on to the Six Plains Glacier Tea House hike, but we bypassed this for the day and headed back towards the lake. A little rain and a few hours later and we were back at the lake, surrounded by tourists once again.

Big Beehive Trail level of difficulty: Moderate

Day 4:

We woke up to find a cold and rainy day ahead of us so we decided to take this day to drive the Icefields Parkway. The road connects Banff National Park to Jasper National Park and is known as one of the most beautiful drives in the world. We packed some snacks for the day, filled up the tank with gas and hit the road.

The drive itself is incredible as you pass through the continental divide surrounded by the rocky mountains. Even on a cloudy, rainy day, the views were nothing short of impressive. The road is well-marked, pointing out turnouts for all of the major attractions from Bow Lake all the way up to Columbia Icefield. While everywhere we stopped was incredible, my personal favorite would be Peyto Lake; a gorgeous blue lake and on this day surrounded by snow-covered pines.

The drive to Columbia Icefields and back to Banff took us most of the day with all the stops and little hikes we took along the way. Luckily we took some food with us as there is only one place to stop on the entire drive with food and also only one stop with gasoline so it’s a good idea to fill up before you leave Banff. At Columbia Icefield we found a large visitor center that also had a small cafeteria and restrooms. Here, you can also purchase a tour of the glacier. We opted to just walk up to the tongue and take a look ourselves, but you are unable to walk on the glacier unless you are accompanied by a tour guide.

Even with the dreary weather, the drive was magnificent. The drive to Jasper and back to Banff is definitely feasible in one day, but would also be nice with a night or two stop off in Jasper if you have the time.

Day 5:

After a day of rest, we were ready to hit the trails again! Today we would do the hike that I’ve been waiting for the whole trip…Larch Valley. I was super excited to be visiting Banff in September so we could see the much raved about Larch Trees in their prime.

The Larch Valley trail starts near Moraine lake. There is a very small parking lot at this lake and it is typically full so we parked at the overflow lot and took a shuttle from the overflow lot to Moraine Lake. The 4.3km trail starts to the right of the lake and climbs through a thick forest of trees up to the valley. As the elevation increased, we started to see more and more golden-yellow larches sprout through the thick green pines. On this snowy day, the golden-yellow was a little subdued as the thick white coat of fresh snow covered the golden branches, but the view was still stunning and special under the fresh snowfall. It was hard to peel our eyes away from the gorgeous trees below, but the panoramic mountain view was equally spectacular. This hike instantly became my favorite hike of the trip.

We chose not to do the additional 2.5km up to Sentinel Pass as it was already cold and windy enough for us in the valley so we bundled up and headed back down to Moraine Lake and waited for the shuttle to take us back to the overflow lot where we began.

Larch Valley trail level of difficulty: Moderate

Day 6:

The hike to Saddleback Pass began at Lake Louise once again. The 7.4km round trip hike started to the left of the lake this time. A dense forest led us up a series of switchbacks, past huge rock piles from earlier avalanches and looking out on the valley below. We intended to stop at Saddleback Pass, but there were no signs on the trail so we just continued hiking no sure whether we had made it to the pass or not. We continued on until we were met with a sign the pointed to Paradise Valley in one direction and Fairview Mountain in the other. Realizing we had passed Saddleback, we decided to head towards Paradise Valley.

The narrow path led us on a descending path through a forest of dense trees. As the elevation started to decline, we realized just how far below this valley trail was to take us. We decided to stop before we got too far and turn around to continue back down the path we came on. We weren’t quite up for the strenuous trek back up from that valley!

Hike to Paradise Valley Junction level of difficulty: Moderate

Day 7:

Our final day at Banff arrived much too soon. Wanting to squeeze in one last hike before we had to head back to Calgary, we decided to try an easy trail a bit further away from the crowds of Lake Louise.

We opted for the 10.2km round trip hike to Boom Lake. This wide, forest-covered trail was just what we needed after a few days of tougher hikes. Very low intensity and fairly little elevation gain, the hike to the lake was relaxing and serene. We emerged from the forest and were met with a crystal clear lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The lake looked incredibly inviting and if it was MUCH warmer, I would likely have taken a dip in the glassy water.

We took a nice long break enjoying the scenery and a snack before we headed back to the car park and hit the road for the 90 minute drive back to Calgary.

Boom Lake level of difficulty: Easy

The Highlights:

There are plenty of hikes in the park for all ability levels

Lake Louise and Moraine Lake may be the big attractions, but don’t miss out on all of the other great hikes and beauty in the park

Accommodations fill up quickly so book early

We were able to pay for everything the entire trip with credit card and did not need any local currency

The Prep: Any overnight backpacking in Yosemite National Park requires a Wilderness Permit. I called a week in advance and was lucky to get a permit. You can book your permit in advance or there are some permits available on a first come, first serve basis at the Wilderness Center in the park.

The Gear: You’ll need all the Camping Essentials PLUS a bear cache- this is mandatory in Yosemite National Park and can be rented at any Wilderness center for roughly $5/week with a $95 deposit.

The Execution:

We arrived at Yosemite National Park by car the day before we planned to hike 10 Lakes Basin and paid the entrance fee at the gate. We then drove to the Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center to obtain our permit that we had reserved the week prior. While we were at the Wilderness Center, we rented a bear cache for $5 for the week with a $95 deposit. With permit and cache in hand, we headed to the Tuolumne Meadows campground.

The Yosemite Wilderness Permit allows you to camp at the Backpackers Camps in the park 1 night prior to your trip and 1 night after your trip. So we parked in the 15 minute loading zone and walked our gear up to the backpackers section where we chose a site, set up our tent and paid the $6/person fee (cash only) in the envelope provided. We then drove our car down the road to an area the ranger suggested we could park for the evening.

The next morning as we were packing our gear, we were struggling to find a way to carry the bear cache. The container is rather large at 12 in. long and 8in. diameter and weighs roughly 3 lbs empty. After several attempts at trying to put the cache IN our packs, we decided to strap it on the bottom of one of our packs as it was the most comfortable option.

We drove down to the 10 Lakes Basin trailhead and parked across the street at Yosemite Creek. Here we were able to use the restroom and store our extra food in the bear lockers provided. Once we were geared up, we walked across the street and started our trek out to 10 Lakes Basin.

The beginning of the trail is a slight uphill with a rocky base that continues up beautiful slabs of granite, exposed to the sun and elements. I had a bit of trouble adjusting to the elevation and heavy pack as we started the small uphill climb. As we crossed the slabs of granite, we realized that the trail was not marked. If we were to wander off the trail for any reason, it could be difficult to find the trail again and we could easily get lost. We decided to stick to the path to avoid getting lost and continued on until we were in a dense forest full of evergreens. The rocky trail transformed to soft, pine needle covered forest floor as it leveled off and we cooled down under the shade of the giant trees.

The 6+ miles from the trailhead to the basin is a gradual uphill climb for most of the trail. We passed a beautiful open meadow and then began a steeper climb up to the 9,600 feet peak going back and forth up the rocky switchbacks until we reached a beautiful flower filled meadow. We stopped for a snack as we watched some deer grazing through the meadow before we continued our journey. The final haul to the basin was a steep descent down more winding switch backs as we made our way down to the lakes once again finding ourselves covered by a blanket of trees.

We passed a few fellow hikers as we scoped out the best spot to pitch our tent. We found a cozy little area right near the water as the thunder started rolling through the area. We were luckily able to get our tent up and packs inside before the rain started. After a quick rain shower, we explored the area and searched for some fire wood for the evening as we gotten eaten alive by the massive amounts of mosquitos buzzing round. After a swim in the lake, we spent the night warming ourselves by the fire and admiring the epic beauty of the night sky. We found a spot for our bear cache safely away from our tent and had a peaceful nights rest in our secluded lakeside retreat.

We rose with the sun the next morning, ate some breakfast and filtered some water from the stream to fill our camelbaks for the journey back. I was dreading the climb up those switchbacks at to get back to the meadow, but we took our time and it ended up being not as bad as I had been imagining all morning! Once we made it to the meadow at the top of the hill, the rest of the hike back to the car was a breeze. Downhill and mostly shaded, we were able to make the trek back to the trailhead at record pace.

Tired, sweaty and dirty on arrival to our car, we were yearning for rest and a shower! We hopped in the car and took a drive down to Yosemite Valley where we would spend the night at another backpackers camp.

We headed over to North Pines campground where we again parked at the 15 minute loading zone while we hauled our gear over the footbridge to the backpackers camp. We staked out a spot and dropped our $12 into the envelope for the evening. We then took our car over to Half Dome Village where it would stay for the evening. After a bit of food at Half Dome Village, we were feeling refreshed and decided to take a quick hike to Mirror Lake.

From the backpackers camp, it was a quick one mile, leisurely walk to Mirror Lake. The weather was much hotter in the Valley (87 F compared to 70 F near Tuolumne) and we were eager for a swim in the lake. The water was frigid, but it felt amazing after a few days of hiking. After we cooled off in the lake with a beautiful view of Half Dome, we braved the mosquitos and walked the one mile back to camp. Exhausted, we had a short fire and something to eat before going to sleep for the evening.

We woke early to get a head start out to our hike for the day. We packed our things and dropped our packs off at the car at Half Dome Village. We packed a quick day pack with some water and snacks and grabbed the free Yosemite Vally shuttle at Half Dome Village and took it two stops to Mist Trail.

We decided to the 7+ mile round trip trail up to Nevada falls and back down the JMT (John Muir Trail). The hike up to Nevada falls was steep and at points treacherous. The water coming off Vernal Falls made the rocky stairs and trail quite wet and slippery. I guess there’s a reason they call it Mist Trail! Although we started on the early side (roughly 8am) the trail was quite crowded already. Luckily, as we got further up the trail towards Nevada falls, the trail got steeper and the people became fewer.

We stopped several times to admire the beauty of the falls and the massive amounts of water rushing down the granite faces. Once at the top, we took a quick break to have a snack and enjoy the view before heading down John Muir Trail back to the trail head. The JMT on the way down was much easier on the knees as the trail was mostly dirt instead of rock and switchbacks instead of stairs. The views were not as great as they were the way up the steep side of the trail, but if you have knee problems, I would definitely suggest taking the JMT up and down as it is less strenuous.

As we returned to the trailhead, we noticed that there were a ton of folks just beginning the hike and it was way more crowded than it was in the morning. We were thankful we started so early in the day and were able to avoid most of the crowds.

The Highlights:

Level of difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous

Ensure you have a wilderness permit if you plan to camp in the backcountry.

All food and scented items are required to be kept in a bear locker or bear cache overnight.

Weather varies greatly from the valley to other parts of the park. Make sure to pack accordingly.

Some trails are not marked well. It’s a good idea to have a map and compass with you at all times.

The only place with cellular reception in the park is Yosemite Valley. Otherwise you will likely not have cell service.

Be sure to fill your car with gas before entering the park. There is a gas station in the valley, but it is extremely overpriced.

There is a grocery store and restaurant in the valley, but otherwise there are not many food options in other parts of the park.

A water filter is necessary if you plan on camping in the backcountry.

For this particular hike, sturdy waterproof boots were essential. The weather also changed quite a bit so I packed layers including waterproof gear and the waterproof cover for my pack (which I definitely ended up using). And don’t forget the camera!

The Execution:

We arrived at Trolltunga and hit the trail at around 3:00pm. We planned to take about 6 hours to reach the summit and have plenty of time to spare to pitch our tent before nightfall. We carefully arranged our packs and hit the trail.

The first mile of the hike is the most intense, it starts up a steep incline of steps that were built by Sherpas from Nepal. It had rained heavily the day before and the trail was a slick, muddy mess. I made use of the rope to steady my balance and took a few breaks to catch my breath. Once we conquered the most grueling part of the trail, we were hot and sweaty as we strolled through an open valley under the bright sun. We stopped and filled our water at the flowing stream and continued on.

We crossed a few wooden planks that were placed to keep us from sinking into the mud before we were met with another steep, rocky incline. This time there were no steps, but a rocky trail. This portion was also steep, but nothing like the first mile we had encountered. We took our time, took in the view and then climbed up a not quite as steep rock face towards a plateau.

We were relieved to have another “rest” period of mostly flat terrain. The trail continued on, we stopped for lunch, paused for photos, breathed the fresh air and pushed on. There were a few additional climbs, but again, nothing quite that steep or long making the final push of the hike easier as we neared the troll’s tongue.

The hike out to Trolltunga ended up taking us about 6 hours as we had predicted. We arrived at Trolltunga just before sunset and had the area almost all to ourselves. Words cannot describe the beauty, it was more incredible than we could have ever imagined. We took tons of photos and sat out on the Troll’s tongue before we found a spot with a view to pitch our tent.

In the morning, the area was filled with tourists and fellow campers taking in the view. We were happy that we had the time to enjoy the place to ourselves the night before. We spent an hour or so hiking around the area, up to a glacier and checking out the emergency cabin up on the hill before heading back down.

Our hike back to the car was a bit quicker than our hike up and took us about 4 and a half hours. Luckily the sunshine had dried a bit of the mud and the trail was not quite as slick, making our descent a little less stressful.

The Highlights:

Level of difficulty: Strenuous

Water and toilets at the trail head

Pay to park

We filled up our water in the streams along the hike and had no health issues

We arrived at Kjeragbolten around 7am and the parking lot was already beginning to fill with fellow hikers. We paid the parking fee, prepared our packs and began our day of hiking.

The initial ascent was rather steep, but there were chains bolted into the rocks for assistance in climbing. After a bit of tough uphill hiking, we stopped for a breath and a view in a nice flat valley.

After the flat valley, we were met with another climb. Luckily, this one was shorter and not quite as steep as the initial ascent. We continued on through the downs and ups, including a nice fairly level stretch near the summit. We continued to follow the red “T” trail blazes and eventually made our way to “the boulder”.

The walk out onto the boulder was much less terrifying than we had imagined. There is an easy way to walk right out onto the rock, but the scary part is definitely looking down! We took our photos and enjoyed our lunch before exploring more of the area. We spent quite a bit of time enjoying the views from the top with stunning sheer cliffs and deep blue water below.

The hike down was quite intense with wind gusts up to 40mph. At some points I could barely move because of the wind resistance. We were relieved when we finally made it to the bottom and had some reprieve from the weather as we warmed up in our car.

The Highlights:

Level of difficulty: Strenuous

Pay to park

Bathrooms at trailhead but NO POTABLE WATER

Cafe available at trailhead

Area at the top of the mountain is mostly rocky and exposed, not great area for camping

Gloves were essential for warmth and holding onto cold chains while climbing

A wind breaker was necessary this day as it was incredibly windy. It helped keep off the chill and keep us dry in the light rain.

When we arrived at Preikestolen, the parking lot was packed with tour buses and hikers. Since this is the easiest of the “Big 3” hikes, we anticipated this trail being more crowded than the others so we decided to start later in the day, around 4pm when the crowds were starting to thin out. Luckily, since it was summer, the sunset wasn’t until 9:30pm so we had plenty of daylight.

The trail was rocky and had a few tough climbs, but overall a moderate hike. The entire hike to the summit was filled with amazing views and we stopped along the way to take photos and relax. Right before the final ascent, there was a nice, relatively flat stretch where we stopped to look at a waterfall in the distance and enjoy some lunch.

After lunch, we continued our climb to the summit. When we arrived at Preikestolen, we could not believe the sheer drop off of the cliffs below us. We carefully inched our way towards the edge and looked down into the fjord below us. The drop was so steep and so sheer, I immediately backed away to catch my breath.

We walked out onto Pulpit Rock and took some photos before continuing up the small trail behind us. A brief walk led us past some campers setting up for the night and then to an overlook where we could see down onto Pulpit Rock with a bird’s eye view. We spent quite a bit of time exploring the area and hiking around before heading back down the trail to our car. All in all, the hike back down to the car only took us a little over an hour.

We flew into Bergen and immediately picked up our rental car and started our drive to Stavanger. The drive took a little over 4 hours and included two ferry rides. Exhausted, we arrived at our Airbnb in Stavanger and got a good night’s rest before we started our adventures.

Day 2: Hike Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock)

We stopped at the grocery store before heading out on the hour and a half drive to Preikestolen. This drive included one ferry ride. We paid for parking, used the restroom and filled up our camelbaks before starting out on the 2-4 hour hike.

This hike can definitely be done in under 4 hours, but the views are exceptional and we spent a lot of time hanging out and enjoying the scenery.

Tired, we started our four and a half hour drive towards Trolltunga. It had started to rain so we stopped and set up our tent under a small shelter and spent the night.

Day 4: Hike Trolltunga

In the morning, we continued our drive to Trolltunga and stopped in the town of Odda to get a bite to eat before beginning the hike. Once our bellies were full, we drove to the trail head and prepared our packs.

The hike to Trolltunga took us roughly 6 hours. We arrived around dusk, set up our tent for the night and enjoyed the evening with an incredible view.

The next day, we explored more of Trolltunga and hiked the 4 hours back down to the parking lot.

When we arrived back at our car, we were so excited to remove our shoes and packs! We took a few minutes to stretch and relax before we started our hour and a half drive to Voss where we would camp for the evening.

Day 6: Kayak Gudvangen

We woke up early in Voss, grabbed breakfast and drove a quick 40 minutes to Gudvangen. A beautiful, sunny day, we rented a double Kayak at Nordic Ventures. There are also Kayak tours you can take here, but we decided to rent a kayak and explore on our own. They offer full day and half-day rentals and we opted for the full day so we could take our time and enjoy.

Nordic Ventures supplied everything we needed: kayak and paddle, skirt, wet-suit, booties, waterproof jacket, life vest and dry bags. We packed a lunch and began paddling out into the fjord. We passed a few other kayakers and lots of tourist boats. The water was calm and the view was breathtaking. We stopped off to explore a waterfall and dip our toes in the freezing glacial water.

We paddled a bit further and stopped for lunch on a small, lush, green, sun drenched pasture. We ate our lunch while lambs roamed around us with the serene sound of waterfalls in the distance. We even took a swim in the fjord and laid on the shore to dry in the sun. I could have stayed here forever, but we had to get the kayaks back by 5:30pm so we geared up and started our paddle back to shore.

Our arms were quite tired on the way back so we took our time and enjoyed the scenery and the lovely weather. We made it back just in time for closing, returned our gear and began the five and a half hour drive to Hoddevik. We were very tired so we stopped on our way at the town of Lem and camped for the evening.

Day 7: Surf at Hoddevik

Day 7 started out with a stop at Bøyabreen Glacier, Fjærland. Here we found a lot of tour buses so we didn’t stay too long, but it was an amazing spot to view the glacier. The water in the lake below was an incredible shade of blue with small ice chunks casually floating by. We could feel an icy chill coming from the glacier above as we marveled at the large, blue ice sheet. There was also a restaurant and restrooms here where many of the tour buses stopped for lunch.

After our glacier stop, we continued the drive to Hoddevik. It started to rain, but it didn’t stop us from hitting the surf. Hoddevik is a very small town so it wasn’t hard to find the board rental shop right by the beach. We rented boards and suits and hit the waves. While the waves weren’t huge, they were consistent and there were very few surfers competing for waves.

After a few hours of surf, we headed to nearby Ervik. There are also surfable waves in Ervik, but we came here on a suggestion from a local to check out the old Nazi tunnels in the mountain. We hiked across the beach and up a cliff, through a gate and finally reached the entrance to the tunnel. There were two paths in the tunnel. The path to the right led us to an amazing view of the ocean where the path to the left let us to some old broken stairs up to a small house out on the cliff. This was definitely an off the beaten path stop, we were the only people around and were able to enjoy a nice quiet hike with only sheep as our company and the sound of waves crashing as our soundtrack.

After our hike, we began the three and a half hour drive towards Geiranger, but stopped about an hour in and found a spot to camp for the evening.

Day 8: Hike in Brunstad (or go to Geiranger)

The next day we had planned on heading to Geiranger, but the weather was fierce so we decided to take a detour and spend the day in nearby Brunstad. We got an amazing Airbnb with a wood burning stove and incredible view.

We took a VERY rainy hike up to a nearby Norse village. The old farming village was like a time warp, sending us back to the days when farmers would bring their livestock to this tiny village for summering. We decided to continue up the mountain hoping to reach a lake we had heard of, but after about an hour of hiking in the pouring down rain, we decided to call it a day and head back down.

We were soaked and muddy and happy we had a nice warm cabin to go home to and dry off. We got an amazing night of rest and were sad we had to leave our quiet little village the next day.

The touristy thing to do here would definitely be to go to Geirangerfjord, but we really love immersing ourselves in the local culture and enjoyed our time away from the tourist crowds and exploring Norway off the beaten path.

Day 9: Drive towards Bergen

The next day we began the six and a half hour drive towards Bergen. We stopped multiple times to veer off course, take small side roads and explore anything and everything that seemed interesting and beautiful.

After a day of admiring our surroundings, we had a nice dinner at Stryn Hotel and found a campsite near by for the evening.

Day 10: Hike in Bergen

On our final day, we finished our drive and spent the day in Bergen. We checked into our Airbnb not far outside of town and took a local bus to Stoltzekleiven. We hiked the 722 stairs up to Sandviksfjellet and the view was well worth the effort.

After enjoying the bird’s eye view of Bergen, we hiked back towards a small lake. Here we were met with multiple hiking trails. We were surprised there were so many hiking trails right in the heart of the city.

We took a trail from the lake all the way down to the city center. We passed several other trail heads and even some backpackers heading out for a night of camping.

We treated ourselves to a delicious dinner at Bare Vestland and explored the city for the evening before returning to our Airbnb and packing up to fly out the next morning.

Day 11: Fly home

Goodbye, Norway! Leaving Norway was really hard. The entire trip was beautiful and breathtaking with something to wow at after every turn. I’m already starting to plan my trip to return!

Norway Travel Tips:

There is a very cool law in Norway that says you can camp just about anywhere. We took advantage of this to save a lot of money on our trip.

Norway is expensive, plan accordingly. For reference, gas was about $7USD/gallon and a meal at the gas station was about $30USD.

Grocery stores are closed on Sundays, make sure you stock up beforehand.

If driving, you will be taking quite a few ferries. Check schedules beforehand.

Tolls and ferry rides are also expensive, make sure to factor this into your budget.

Most gas stations did not take our US credit cards at the pumps which made getting gas difficult after hours. Make sure you fill up while stations are still open.

We used our US credit cards everywhere and rarely needed local currency.

If you haven’t used Airbnb before, it’s a wonderful, cheaper alternative to hotels. If you’re new to Airbnb, get a free travel credit here!

The Execution: We arrived at Sequoia National Park in the morning and paid our $30USD entrance fee, good for 7 days. Not far from the park entrance, we found our campsite at Potwisha, a small, quiet campsite equipped with flush toilets. We set up our tent and secured all of our food and scented items in the bear locker provided.

After getting our campsite settled, we drove roughly 40 minutes from Potwisha to the General Sherman Tree parking lot. Mileage wise, this is not far, but the roads are very windy and speed limits are slow so it took us awhile to get all the way up the mountain.

Once we found parking, we hiked a quick half mile down to the General Sherman Tree. There is also a shuttle that goes from the parking lot down to the tree area if you are unable to walk that distance.

After checking out General Sherman, we started hiking along Congress Trail (2 mile loop) to explore some more of the Giant Sequoias. We veered off onto Alta trail for a while to get away from the crowds before turning back and finishing Congress Trail.

Back at the General Sherman Tree, we hopped on a shuttle that took us to the Giant Forest Museum. After a few minutes in the museum, we hopped on another shuttle up to Moro Rock. We stopped to check out the Auto Log and then continued on to the rock.

The steps to the top of the rock are rather steep, but there are safety rails that lead the way. At 6,725 ft, the view from the top was magnificent, but I wouldn’t recommend this hike if you’re afraid of heights!

After Moro Rock, we hopped back on the shuttle, grabbed our car and headed back to camp for the night. Unfortunately, we were hit with a major thunderstorm that evening, complete with flashes of lightning and heavy rain. We stuck it out through the night, but were soaked by daylight.

We decided after a long sleepless night to give ourselves a break and do a short hike near the campsite on our last day before driving home exhausted.

The Highlights:

Campsite cost about $22USD.

If you want to camp, book a campsite as early as possible. Backpacking is also an option, but requires registration and a bear canister.

Crowds are heavy around the major sites, but if you hike just a short distance off a main trail, the crowds thin out and you will get to enjoy more of the park.

Take advantage of the shuttle as parking is scarce. Shuttles run every 10 minutes so you never have to wait long.

There is a small restaurant and store at Lodgepole Visitor center for food and firewood.

The Execution: We started off down Pine Ridge Trail toward Ventana, passing a rather loud campsite at Pfeiffer Big Sur. The sign states that there is no camping before Ventana and there really was NO camping before Ventana. The trail is rather narrow and cut into the side of the mountain… so there really is nowhere to camp before you reach Ventana camp.

The trail out was mostly uphill with small stretches of downhill to flat. We were met with sweeping views of the valley and higher mountains surrounding us with giant redwoods stretching low from the valley to high above our heads. The fog from the coast rolled in through the mountain peaks keeping us cool and shaded on our hike and the sound of rushing water from the stream in the valley below provided our soundtrack.

After plenty of steep uphill hiking, we reached a sign for Ventana camp, just one more mile away.

We were now sent all the way down to the valley through a series of switchbacks winding down the mountain. When we finally reached the bottom, we were greeted by groups of campers dotted around the valley on both sides of the stream. Although it was a holiday weekend, there were not as many campers here as we had anticipated. We found a nice little clearing away from the water and set up camp for the night.

We built a small fire, ate some dinner and listened to the sound of the rushing water as we sat under the stars.

The next morning, we got an early start to tackle the switchbacks up the mountain. We were dreading these switchbacks all night, but they weren’t nearly as bad as we had anticipated. We knew if we made it through the switchbacks, the rest of the trail would be mostly downhill and easier than the previous day on our hike out.

We had a gorgeous, cool morning for our 5 mile hike back to the ranger station as we enjoyed the fresh air and beautiful redwoods surrounding us. We’re looking forward to returning to this area and doing a longer hike next time!

From the vibrant city of Marrakech to the serene Sahara Desert, Morocco is a diverse country for exploring. To avoid the crowds and intense heat, we traveled to Morocco in January. The weather was perfect with daily highs around 70F and daily lows around 50F.

Day 1 and 2: Marrakech (2 nights)

The only accommodation for this trip booked in advance was our first night in Marrakech. We booked online and scheduled an airport pickup service. The driver dropped us off in a roundabout where another gentlemen walked us through the winding alleyways of the Medina. The Medina is extremely hard to navigate so we were lucky to have local help in navigating our way to the Riad.

We spent 2 days wandering the maze that is the medina, eating tagine, browsing the souks, relaxing in Jardin Marjorelle and admiring the tile work at Bahia Palace. We were itching to explore more of the country so the wonderful gentleman of Riad Houdou assisted us in renting a car. For about $400USD +gas, we were able to rent a car for the remainder of our stay and discover Morocco on our own schedule.

Highlights:

Getting lost in the medina

Eating slow roasted lamb in Mechoui Alley

Bahia Palace

Jardin Marjorelle

Snake charmers in the Medina

The liveliness of Jamaa el Fna after dark

Day 3: Ouarzazate (1 night)

The drive to Ouarzazate from Marrakech took us over some of the highest peaks in Africa through the High Atlas Mountains. The long, windy road through Tizi N’Tichka pass to Ouarzazate took about 4 hours. The landscape changed vastly as we drove up and over the mountains, making a stop at the fortified city of Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah at dusk.

Early the next morning, we began our 5 hour journey to the Sahara. We arrived in Merzouga just in time to book a camel trek into the Erg Chebbi Dunes. For $120USD, we booked a night in the desert including camel ride both ways, accommodation, dinner, breakfast and shower back at the hotel in the morning. I would recommend booking in advance as we had some trouble finding an opening last minute.

We mounted our camels at dusk and road for about an hour into the depths of the dunes. We arrived at a lovely camp complete with sleeping tents, dining tent, restroom and campfire. After eating a delicious tagine dinner, we roamed the dunes in the darkness with the brightness of the stars and the Milky Way lighting our way. Upon return to the camp, our Berber hosts treated us to some mint tea and played traditional music as we huddled around the fire. We went to bed in our tents made of rugs wearing every layer we had available and still ended up freezing all night!

Early the next morning, we packed up and rode our camels back to Merzouga. There was a traditional breakfast waiting for us and we were allowed to use the hotel facilities for a quick shower. We said our goodbyes to our new friends and camels and set off on our way to Fes.

Day 5 and 6: Fes (2 nights)

After a 7 hour drive, we finally arrived in Fes. Exhausted, we found our Riad and went straight to bed. Early the next morning, we had a delicious Moroccan breakfast and headed to the Medina.

For about $5USD we found a local to give us a private tour of the Tannery, including a climb up the terrace for an incredible view. Despite the pungent smell, the technique and care that goes into creating the leather products from start to finish was fascinating.

After the tannery tour, we spent the rest of the day exploring all the Medina has to offer including the beautiful Attarin Medersa, incredible city views from rooftops and Bab Boujloud- the gorgeous blue gate that welcomes you to the city of Fes.

A “quick” 3.5 hour drive from Fes turned into a stressful drive through the windy roads of the mountains. There is a highway that goes from Fes to Chefchaouen, but on the map it looked farther so we opted for the more “direct” route. Lesson learned…always, ALWAYS take the highway!

After a strenuous drive, we arrived in the enchanted city of Chefchaouen, known for its blue hue. Chefchaouen is a small, quaint town with not much to do other than marvel at the extraordinary color that paints the town. So 1 day here was more than enough. We strolled through the square, wandered the maze of alleys and admired the many shades of blues.

To get a bird’s-eye view of the blue city, we took a short 20 minute hike to the top of a hill nearby. We exited the medina near The Hotel Atlas and walked uphill to the Spanish Mosque perched above the town. Even on a rainy day, the blue of the city brightened the sky.

The next day, we took a short 2 hour drive to Tangier, a port town known as the gateway to Europe. On the way, we stopped at the small town of Tetouan to explore the markets and eat a delicious lunch at Blanco Riad.

Stepping into the city of Tangier was like stepping into another country completely. Right away, you could see the European influences and energy brought from the influx of travelers from across the Strait of Gibraltar. We spent the night and hopped on the first ferry to Spain in the morning.

First thing in the morning, we parked the car at the ferry station (free) and took the ferry from Tangier to Tarifa (1 hr). Once in Tarifa, we hopped on a free shuttle to Algeciras (30 min, show your ferry ticket). From Algeciras, we took a short taxi ride to La Linea ($25USD) where we walked across the border (which happens to be an airport runway) to Gibraltar. Once in Gibraltar, there is a local bus, but we decided to walk so we could explore. For dinner, we hopped back over the border to Spain and enjoyed some tapas before heading back to Gibraltar for a good nights rest.

First thing in the morning, we decided to hike the mediterranean steps to the “top of the rock”. The steps, built by british military start at Jew’s Gate cemetery and run along the eastern side of the rock. The hour-long, grueling hike was well worth the struggle with incredible views beyond imagination.

At the top of the rock, we toured the battery before walking down to the Military Tunnels and St. Michael’s Cave. We ended the day from a secret spot we found inside the rock where we watched the sunset over the water with Morocco in the distance.

For a less strenuous approach to “the top of the rock”, there are several options including the cable car, bus or private tour.

The only food/refreshment on the rock is located near St. Michaels Cave.

Plan to spend an entire day exploring the rock.

If hiking, take plenty of water.

The temperature drops drastically at the top of the rock so plan to bring a warmer jacket.

Day 10: Safi (1 night)

Arriving late in the evening to Tangier, we decided to get right on the road and begin our 7 hour drive to Safi along the African coastline. We made brief stops along the way in Rabat and Casablanca before arriving in the beautiful town of Safi at sunset.

We spent our last day in Morocco walking the coastline and exploring the small Medina in Safi, one of the smallest, most local towns we visited. We stood on the cliffs watching the sunset, wishing we had more time in this beautiful country before we drove back to Marrakech to catch our flights back home.

Money: Most places are cash only and ATMs are hard to find. Plan on bringing enough cash for the entire trip, including accommodations.

Dress: Women should plan to dress modestly, but it is not necessary to cover your head.

PDA: Avoid kissing, hugging, holding hands etc with your significant other in public. This is considered inappropriate and you will likely get some dirty looks.

Access: Non-Muslims are typically not allowed in the Mosques. If you are unsure, it’s best to ask before entering.

Accommodation: Stay in a Riad (traditional Moroccan house). We learned the hard way that it’s best to book accommodation in advance if you can!

Tipping: Carry small change. You will need to tip often for everything from directions to parking and on your restaurant bill.

Tours: Do not pay “guides” that offer you tours on the streets in the Medina. Instead, go to a tour office or ask at your accommodation.

Haggling: Don’t be afraid to negotiate on prices for everything from cabs to souvenirs.

Stay in Touch: Likely, your cell phone will not work here, but you can purchase a local sim card. We used Maroc Telecom which was a bit spotty, but worked for our needs.

Driving: When driving, roads are not marked well (ie: It will not say N1 or N10), so look for the name of the city you are heading towards as these will be the only “directional” markers you will see.

Checkpoints: Driving through Morocco, you will pass through many checkpoints. They may ask for your passport, but typically we were not even stopped.

Women Driving: While you may get a weird look or two, I had no issues as a woman driving in Morocco.

Filling Your Tank: Gas stations are few and far between outside of the main cities so make sure you fill up when you see one. Stations are full service and take only cash. Unlike in the states, where pumps have a sensor and stop filling when the tank is full, the attendant looks down into the tank and takes a guess whether it is full or not. Check for yourself and make sure your tank is full before leaving.

Avoid Getting Lost: When navigating the Medinas, look for permanent landmarks to mark your way such as doors or shop signs. If for example, you say “turn right at the shoe stand to get back to the riad”, the shop may be closed on your way back and you will not be able to tell where the shoes were.

Plan for Closures: Friday is a holy day so be prepared for shops and establishments to be closed.

Health: Drink only bottled water to avoid getting sick.

Communication: A variety of languages are spoken across Morocco including: French, Moroccan Arabic, Berber and English.

Sanitation: Take your own TP! Most public toilets in Morocco do not have TP so it’s best to bring your own, just in case. I’d also recommend hand sanitizer!

Drink: Develop a liking for mint tea as you will be drinking a lot of it!

Eat: If you see a lamb hanging by its feet on the side of the road, STOP! This means the meat is fresh. We had some of the most amazing lamb of our lives on the side of the road in Morocco. Covered in cumin and grilled, you won’t want to miss it!

The Prep: I parked on Mulholland Drive to avoid the parking fee and started from the trail head along the road. You can also park at the main parking area for $12. There are restrooms and water fountains in the parking lot.

The Gear:
Trail shoes
Shades
Sunscreen
Hydration pack
Hat

The Execution:
I grew up watching reruns of the hit show M*A*S*H on television and couldn’t resist the opportunity to hike out to the site where the show was filmed. I arrived early enough to find street parking and avoid paying the fee at the park entrance. I entered the park through a trail head on Mulholland Drive and was quickly met with myriad forks in the road. I didn’t have a trail map so I pulled out my phone and looked for “Crags Road”. The actual site lies on this road so it was a good directional reference point.

A short way down the path, I ran into a lot of families heading towards the swimming hole. It seemed as though the majority of the people I saw were not here to hike, but rather to picnic and swim. I came to a fork in the road where the majority of the crowd veered to the left towards the water and I stayed right towards the M*A*S*H trail. The scenic hike took me up a short hill with expansive views of the canyon and mountains in the distance. As I descended, I was met with more trail heads in a variety of directions, I continued straight on hoping I was still on the correct path.

Eventually I was met with the sign above, and relieve washed over me as I realized I hadn’t strayed from my course. I crossed over a small bridge that was desperately trying to hide the smelly, stagnant water below. As the path grew narrower, I continued through the trees until the trail opened up to reveal the site I had been waiting for.

I strolled around the site admiring relics of a past life that were now overgrown and rusted. Informational plaques dotted the area offering a glimpse into the bustling past of the secluded site. It was hard to imagine this dense, dry habitat as a former home of Hollywood magic. I sat at a picnic table to enjoy my lunch and bask in the history and drama of the scene before leaving my old television memories to the past and heading home.

The Highlights:

Level of difficulty: casual

Trail is mainly exposed so it gets quite hot. Wear sunscreen and bring plenty of water.

Trails are not well-marked, but if you have your phone, use google maps to ensure you are heading towards or on Crags Road.