1: Kenwood TK-730 45watt 32 Channel Race radio. In great condition and has full alpha/numaric display, under dash mount setup with Kenwood Dynamic Microphone and Kenwood External Speaker. Comes with Power cord and a PA cord to hook up your own PA speaker. Willing to ship and accept Paypal. $200 firm + shipping

2: Kenwood tk-730H 110 Watts 32 Channel Race radio. It has the remote mout head kit installed and a full alpha /numaric display. It comes with a Kenwood Dynamic microphone and Kenwwod External speaker. Comes with Power cord and a PA cord to hook up your own PA speaker. Willing to ship and accept Paypal. $450 firm + shipping.

On both radios I will provide free programming of the channels.
Right now the radios have the standard PCI channel setup. I will program in your race channels for free.

David, i have a TK-730H and had a question about it, wondering if you might be able to help...I bought it used, it came without the molex connector, so far i have figured out for the external speaker, wires must be plugged into the number 6 & 12 spot, there must also be a positive wire plugged into the molex as well, do you know which spot the positive wire must be plugged into? thanks

David, i have a TK-730H and had a question about it, wondering if you might be able to help...I bought it used, it came without the Molex connector, so far i have figured out for the external speaker, wires must be plugged into the number 6 & 12 spot, there must also be a positive wire plugged into the Molex as well, do you know which spot the positive wire must be plugged into? thanks

Hey Poss
One of the good and sometimes frustrating things about the TK-730 series radios is that there are so many configurations. The other issue you run into with these radios is that there are a bunch of modifications that are out there even mods strait from Kenwood in the Service manual.

First question is if you are running a remote head?

Second is if you are running a remote head which one, Full display or small channel display version?

Third is if it is a small number display with a speaker in front and it is a non remote display you need a jumper from pins 9 to 12 to get audio out of the front speaker.

With the external speaker it does not matter POS or NEG for audio the signal on these radios. Kenwood does not even differentiate between the two, just that the wires are in the those positions.

Be careful, there is a 12V live power source on one of the other pins. Which pin depends on the modification that has been done. Also there is a Mod that lets you turn the radio on and off with the car key.

With a remote head you need to have a jumper wire going from pin 9 to 12.
Then you connect the external speaker to the back of the remote head. There is a 6pin Molex connector. The speaker wires plug into pin 5 and 6.
Like you said, on the 15 pin Molex pin 6 and 12 are for the external speaker. That output is available when you are not using a jumper on pins 9 and 12.

If you are running a remote head then you use the jumper on 9 and 12 then you can put a PA speaker on pins 13 and 14. The radio if it is not programmed for it can be reprogrammed to make one of the buttons a PA button and also you can make another button a speaker switch so you can listen to the radio traffic outside the vehicle and leave the windows closed. This is nice when you are running a Pit in a desert race and you don't want your truck plastered with dust and sand, trust me I know how that goes.
I help out with pits and as a chase truck for racing in Baja. I kind of became the unofficial go to guy for radio stuff. I started picking up radio whenever I could for friends. I have outfitted around 11 of my friend and others in off-road racing with TK-730, TK-730H, TK-730G and TK-730(G)H radios.

This was probably way too much info, Sorry. These radios are the Sherman tank of race radio, as you know the chassis of this radio is the strongest I have ever seen, it is a solid machined piece not just a sheet metal box like most radios now days. I hope I helped a little.

Thanks David, some of your info helped out a lot. I am running as a single remote head. I did not know to run the jumper on 9 and 12 to have the audio come out of the remote head when external speaker connected to it....but the problem i'm having right now is figuring out which pin on the 15-pin molex to run a positive wire to...i knew at one time and thought i had it written down but evidentally i don't, cuz without a positive ran to that pin the radio won't power on, and i think it might be pin 3, but i'm not 100%, also my head is the full alphanumeric, so i must have external speaker. so if you can help me out on which pin i must have a positive hooked to on the 15 pin molex connector and wether or not it needs it's own fuse or if i can just splice on to the positive wire after the 25 amp fuse i'd sure appreciate it, i'm having a lot of troubles trying to find information on the internet...thanks again

Ya I ran into that with a couple radios. That is a mod some people do to those radios and I hate them.

The way to fix that is to re-solder the W101 or W102 line that has been clipped. The Curcuit board is under the top cover held on by 4 screws.

Which line depends on which type of mod was done.

W101 is next to the multi-colored wire connector.

W102 is next to the white Curcuit board connecter. Close to W101 but not the one right next to it.

As you can see in the picture W102 was the problem on this radio. Not the best solder job, but works. I need to get some small tips for my soldering Iron.

One thing, if you don't feel comfortable working on curcuit boards, you might be able to run a jumper from pin 7 to pin 3. I am not sure if it will work but it will not hurt to try. At worse you might not be able to turn off the radio. if that is the case with the jumper then run the jumper line through a toggle switch to turn on and off. This is if you don't want to mess with the curcuit board.

You can also get the scan function working by jumping
pin 1 to 15. Then you turn to the channel you want to scan,
hold down the scan button and push the D/A button and a arrow will
show up above the channel name. After you have added the channels you want to scan, push the scan button and SCAN will show up on the display. When someone transmits the radio will stop on that channel and depending on the radio programming, you can set it to have a priority channel or have it transmit on the same channel that was just received.

thanks for your help...i got it all working now, i remember the radio guy (which i don't have his info anymore to get a hold of him) that i bought these radios off of telling me to run a positive to one of the pins on the back of the unit, so i ran it to pin 3 the ingnition and it powers on and functions good so far, i also tried the jumper on 9 & 12 and plugging the speaker into 5 & 6 and it works great now, good things to know about these confusing radios lol...again thanks a lot and i think i'm in business now, also i haven't looked at W101 or W102 to see if they've even been clipped or not, you might know wether or not buy my info, but hopefully i won't need to mess with that.

I looked and my W101 is cut on both of my radios, one will be easy to soder back cuz it's disconnected at the board, the other, has been cut in half so i'm assuming a person would have to soder a wire between the cut pieces, but if i am to do this, what will i accomplish by sodering the W101 back together? will it keep me from having to run a positive wire to the ignition pin 3 in order to power on my units? if so that would be nice.

I looked and my W101 is cut on both of my radios, one will be easy to soder back cuz it's disconnected at the board, the other, has been cut in half so i'm assuming a person would have to soder a wire between the cut pieces, but if i am to do this, what will i accomplish by sodering the W101 back together? will it keep me from having to run a positive wire to the ignition pin 3 in order to power on my units? if so that would be nice.

Sorry it took me so long to reply.

Yes it will make it so the radio will turn on and off just from the radio, you will not have to run a ignition sensor wire to the back of the radio.

I agree with HoinnaLip the Kenwood is a great radio plat form in the TK-730 and Tk-790 which are almost the same radio with the 790 having a couple more features. The nice thing too is the 45watt and the 110w versions use the same programming and many of the same parts like the circuit boards for channel programing are interchangable. I scapped a 45watt radio to fix a 110watt and the 110watt turned out good as new.