On 8/04/2009 SummitSlag wrote:>no i will just wait till you pass on and then go and bolt the shit.....

Well lets see - this is a forgotten Ewbank area climbed at in his 20's; rediscovered by me 40 years later
in my 40's; so maybe you'll find it in 60 years, but then you'll be in your 90's and I will have aided off this
mortal coil'; and though I won't care, I will feel sorry for the future generations of climbers . . .
Oh, but try it whilst I'm alive and it will be 'take them bolts out or it's pitons at twenty paces' . . .
Oh, and for those who dis' the carrot - KONG have had a hyper-engineered 21st century carrot available
for quite a number of years and if BD made them you would probably all be lapping them up . . .

On 8/04/2009 madtaffy1 wrote:>Anyone know what the routes are in the middle of the wall up the top?>Some rings have 'biners on them? Any info or is it work in progress?>Ther are also two routes on a little wall on the left as you walk down>the access track. Some rings and some glue in carrots. Any info on these?

They were put up by a kiwi bloke (Pete ??) in 1999 or thereabouts, along with a direct start to Sweet Dreams that clocks in at about 18 or so. From memory there were originally 3 routes up there that were single pitch to lower offs, and were between 18 and 21 or so. Note that that wall has been traversed at varying heights (including right up in the steeper yellow rock) by various people over the years.

It'd be worth pinging the Sydney Rockies to see if they know more - I seem to recall seeing route descriptions and maybe even a topo sent around on the mailing list soon after they were put up. And I know that Hayden Brotchie (amongst others) had explored that upper wall on trad gear at various times.

On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote: >So its ok for someone of my climbing ability to "fiddle" bolt plates>onto the stupid things. My point is that the bolters of this route will>bolt routes at higher grades and closer to their upper level of their ability>with rings because they dont like "fiddling" bolt plates on. But its ok>for people who are climbing slightly above 19 to "fiddle" them on.

Jesus Christ! Could you be any more of a pussy?!! If you can't handle the stress of hanging a few bolt
plates how are you ever going to man up and place gear......and if you don't climb on gear

Three of us got up "Whymper" over the weekend. The weather was exceptionally warm for mid-August
and we figured that it was time to go back to the Blueys.

Overall, excellent climb on the usual, at times friable at time solid, Blue Mountains rock. The route
hasn't yet seen enough traffic and both hand- and footholds did brake off a couple of times along the
way. Nothing serious, though. Alex lead the first two pitches (18, 18) while I lead the third (19). Those
were very enjoyable but the real gem is the fourth pitch (19) which Dominik lead. There's plenty of
exposure after clipping that U, stepping right and committing over the lip. A great moment right there.
The last pitch (16) is what you might expect - a scramble.

For those interested, the whole thing, car-to-car, including the walk-in and -out, took us about four
hours. A party of two could do it substantially faster without sweating too much. But why rush things?
And if you feel you haven't had enough, you can walk back down and do Sweet Dreams.

>Jesus Christ! Could you be any more of a pussy?!! If you can't handle>the stress of hanging a few bolt >>Maybe you should take up netball

I would, except the thought of you playing in a netball skirt was too confronting for me!!
I am still amazed by the missionary like zeal "old school" carrot bolt afficiandos display for old technology.

Wow, that sounds great. Reading your description it fits right in at my trad limit so would be a beaut sport outing. I might have to get to the blueys one day. Mmmm, multipitch 18, tasty. Slightly OT, whats my trad multi-pitch 18 options round araps and gramps? Good Dr?

On 19/08/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:>I am still amazed by the missionary like zeal "old school" carrot bolt>afficiandos display for old technology.

You gotta take it in context of the large number of slightly informed people who will swear black and blue that all carrots are dangerously weak and fail regularly causing injury and death (turns out its not true).......Also, the occasional ballsack will try to tell you how ringbolts are less visually intrusive. If ringbolt zealots were prepared to stick to the facts, I'd be happy to tone down the spray a bit.......although it is kinda fun

I went up this route a couple of month ago, when this thread first appeared. All the debate about bolting has detracted from the point.

Which is this : A fantastic new climb, with the scenery of Sweet Dreams and some cool stances and a couple of thought provoking moves. I led pitches 1, 3 and 5 and will return to lead that 4th pitch - awesome!

Not overly bolted, no problems with carrots (says the european) apart from dropping a few plates, and fixed hangers in the awkward stances make a good compromise. Thanks to Mikel and Julian for putting up another great multipitch at this grade! I loved it and will be taking friends on it soon!

Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Giles route to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route.

Pitch 1: 20m 18 - Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

Pitch 2: 35m 22 - Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch !

Pitch 3: 20m 20 - Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small buldge and continue to final headwall.

On 9/04/2009 pmonks wrote:>On 8/04/2009 madtaffy1 wrote:>>Anyone know what the routes are in the middle of the wall up the top?>>Some rings have 'biners on them? Any info or is it work in progress?>>Ther are also two routes on a little wall on the left as you walk down>>the access track. Some rings and some glue in carrots. Any info on these?>>They were put up by a kiwi bloke (Pete ??) in 1999 or thereabouts, along>with a direct start to Sweet Dreams that clocks in at about 18 or so. >From memory there were originally 3 routes up there that were single pitch>to lower offs, and were between 18 and 21 or so. Note that that wall has>been traversed at varying heights (including right up in the steeper yellow>rock) by various people over the years.>>It'd be worth pinging the Sydney>Rockies to see if they know more - I seem to recall seeing route descriptions>and maybe even a topo sent around on the mailing list soon after they were>put up. And I know that Hayden Brotchie (amongst others) had explored>that upper wall on trad gear at various times.

I'd be interested in any new routes done at Sublime in the last 15 years (since the Sydney Rockies
Guide). I'm trying to make a comprehensive guide on the ACA - and this area is greatly lacking in
worthwhile info. Even many of the old routes have nigh all descriptions.