While Haute Couture Week in Paris may have offered a much-needed break from the European menswear escapades, the fall-winter season of men’s shows had to eventually come to an end—and what better place to do it than in New York City?

This season was certainly not without its debut buzz, as Raf Simons and Represent both revealed their first collections to be shown stateside—each instant hits and easy additions to this list. But scattered across the four days of New York Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2017, there were countless other considerations for our breakdown of the best collections; in the end, it was Billy Reid, Carlos Campos, N. Hoolywood and Todd Snyder that came out on top.

Here are the best collections from New York Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2017.

1. Billy Reid

This season was all about balance for Billy Reid, the Florence, Alabama-based designer who sent out a line filled with washed corduroy, extra-soft cashmere and highly textural boiled wool. If you had the hankering for a wardrobe fit for wintertime cabining, then you wouldn't need to look any further; this was it. (And his softly constructed overcoats, dinner jackets and suits were only the beginning.) Hosted at the Beekman Hotel, with performance by actor Alex Sharp and singers Cedric Burnside and Karen Elson (plus others), this Southern-inspired shindig served up “lived-in luxury” that showed off Billy Reid's more wearable side.

2. Carlos Campos

I first fell in love with Carlos Campos several years ago because, in my opinion, he was the absolute king of colorful coats; and, years later, not much has changed. While merging South American influences and his own Honduras origins may have inspired Campos to show a color palette of baby blues and soft pinks, his fall-winter collection certainly wasn't intended solely for the warmer climates. This was a quintessential summer-into-winter lineup filled with countless variations of Campos' love for outerwear—elongated topcoats, varsity jackets, safari jackets and flowy lab coats. Here is another collection that seemed to dazzle in its ability to maintain balance between trendy options and inspired (yet consistently wearable) wardrobe essentials.

3. N. HOOLYWOOD

Inspired by the homeless youth of America, and their extreme modes of survival during the winter months, Japanese designer Daisuke Obana sent out a rather jarring range of off-kilter options onto his fall-winter runway. Complete with puffer jackets, sweaters (sometimes worn as scarves) and even a blanket or two, this unlikely (and somewhat controversial) inspiration fueled a collection that was hands-down one of this season's best examples of layering—and Obana's oversized coats and cropped trousers only perfected the look. Honestly, I hate to love it, but I really, really do.

4. Todd Snyder

It's official: Todd Snyder knows exactly what we want—and he was certainly not afraid to flaunt it all over his fall-winter runway. Inspired by collegiate life before the Web, his latest collection exhibited the perfect balance between making runway moments and being retail ready—a commitment to his customers that resulted in countless variations of this season's top trends. With corduroy suits, inside-out military shearling, toggle coats, washed plaid shirts, retro sweaters and a Champion-collaborated burgundy varsity tracksuit, this season was vintage, it was varsity, it was military and prep. Seriously, there's never been a collection with this much game, and with only 37 looks.

5. Raf Simons

The collection everyone was waiting for, Raf Simons's first show in New York City revealed an emblazoned celebration of the town he now calls home—a move he recently made to take on the role of creative director at Calvin Klein. For Fall/Winter 2017, he fused sportswear pieces with fine tailoring (lux outerwear and oversize blazers included) for a line filled with cool, clean shapes and new beginnings, which he reveled in by enthusiastically plastering “I Love You” as recurring motifs. However, though there were several upon several of key looks this season, I can't help but think his workwear-inspired extra-long utility shirt and pant combo was the absolute perfect blend of Simons' refined eye for fabrications and his newfound love for American culture. Welcome to the States, Mr. Simons, we're glad to have you!

6. Represent

Another stateside debut to make the list, the London-based label Represent by sibling designers Mike and George Heaton was a surprise addition to the seasonal roundup, with its upbeat athleticism and the perfect amount of grunge. Inspired by northern England in the Eighties and Nineties, this collection was not without its fair share of British blasts from the past: Velour tracksuits, cargo joggers, ripped (or bleached) denim and combat boots may have brought back our favorites from the 1990s, but the extra-cool laidback looks this season were definitely the Heaton brothers’ plaid coats and button-downs that completely captured the mood of an entire era.

In his New York Fashion Week: Men’s debut, Alejandro Gomez Palomo gave a jolt to the conventional fashion system by presenting an absolutely gender-fluid collection, dressing male models in beautifully executed couture-like dresses in fabrics from silk to sheer chiffon. The Big Apple backdrop meant a pleated skirt suit in metallic silk with a polka dot print, sleeveless jumpsuits in graphic patterns and extremely flared pants — and a leopard-print topcoat with matching high-heel boots.With the use of garters, ultracropped skirts and a healthy dose of transparencies, it was clear Palomo was exposing the power of sexuality. source

8. Tim Coppens

Tim Coppens portrayed a contemporary romance set in an apocalyptic, end-of-the-world scenario. A European boy visiting the States for the first time, a wild girl loyal to her white horse — there was nothing quintessentially romantic about this, except for cute birds printed or embroidered on the clothes, which added a sweet note. Staying away from a fairytale attitude, Coppens, the fair’s featured designer, opted for a realistic approach by elevating his ath-leisurewear to the urban stage. There were plenty of sportswear options for both men and women, including quilted bombers, tartan jackets with shearling collars and intarsia knitwear. These were all worked in a color palette that included classic neutrals combined with bright pops of red, yellow and electric blue.

Monday, 27 June 2016

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Saturday, 6 February 2016

And that’s a wrap on another menswear season. The bi-annual rounds, which began in London a month ago, just concluded last night in New York at the Todd Snyder show after a standout sophomore season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s. The four-day onslaught of runways and presentations showcased a mass variety of styles and wares, from oversized outerwear to delightful new takes on tailoring and evening attire.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America launched New York Fashion Week: Men’s, a standalone showcase for American men’s fashion which kicked off with the Spring/Summer 2016 collections at Skylight Clarkson Sq. The sophomore season was held February 1-4 at Skylight Clarkson North.

This season, Concept Korea presented two menswear designers, DBYD by Dong-jun Kang and Ordinary People by Hyeong-cheol Jang. DBYD’s I’m yours and I’m not yours collection focused on changing colors based on mood and emotion from Spike Jonze’s film HER.

Ordinary People’s Hotel People brings the audience into a world of sanguine and uplifted feelings. The collection tells the story of the people in a modern boutique hotel and the lifestyle accompanied with the holiday times.

Suitsupply RTW Fall 2016

The SuitSupply presentation at their Soho store on Broome street. The focus of the presentation was a grey and light brown color palette that consisted of lots of prints. The main print that stood out was herringbone which is perfect for the fall winter season as its tweed cloth is thick yet durbale and comfortable.

In its debut collection, Deveaux, a new brand from the founders of Carson Street Clothiers, presented a lineup full of retail-friendly pieces that hit some of the key trends of the season. An elongated cardigan in cashmere worn with a wool/silk T-shirt and gray wool herringbone pants was a standout, and the monochrome color palette lent a luxe feel to the collection. Numerous statement outerwear items such as bomber jackets in pebble shearling and raglan belted car coats in suede gave the lineup an upscale and romantic feel. This first effort is definitely a move in the right direction. Source

Docker's 30th Anniversary Party

The week kicked off with an opening night party at ArtBeam. Guests included New York Giant's Victor Cruz, New York Mets' Matt Harvey and New York Jets' Eric Decker (official NYFW: Men's ambassadors and a trio we didn't tire of seeing everywhere).

To mark the momentous anniversary, Dockers debuted a new ad campaign ("Yes, They're Dockers") and a special 30th Anniversary Collection, which included reimagined classics like a trench coat and weekender bag, in their timeless khaki color.

Joseph Abboud paid homage to his vision of America with a tailored, clothing-driven show bursting with a multitude of textured fabrics, prints and playful layering techniques. He used his traditional gray and brown palette in a wide range of traditional men’s wear patterns, ranging from pinstripes and tweeds to embellished paisleys. His love for layering scarves added another element of depth. Although at times overwhelming, a shawl-like gray American flag brought home the message of his U.S. roots. Source

Public School RTW Fall 2016

Fashion belongs to the people. And Public School is getting ever closer to its fans. A large group of followers and fashion students lined the street outside the glass-enclosed backstage area and were the first ones to see the looks. The models exited from the rear and marched around the block before entering the official venue.

That spirit of survival was apparent in the use of camouflage in T-shirts, zip-up blazers and bomber jackets.Utility aspects such as Velcro closures on an oversize anorak, and an abundance of quilting reinforced the protectionist spirit.

The heritage streetwear influence and athletic references still resonated in the tailored pieces, which Chow said had a more-sporty silhouette, as well as the elegant layering effects. The balance between the innovation of the collection and the trendsetting show format reinforced Public School’s ability to lead the way in fashion and keep an ongoing connection with the street culture.Source

Nautica RTW Fall 2016

The stage was set before the show started with an opening video of the sea that morphed into a collage of buildings and bridges. This juxtaposition of the water and the city was the inspiration for Nautica’s fall collection, whose new marching order is: “Inspired by the sea, designed in the city.”

Designer Steve McSween said he sought to “make an elegant mark with nautical references fused throughout.” That translated into signature cable-knit sweaters in luxurious twisted cashmere, and pea coats, duffles and utility jackets in wool.

One particular standout was a winter white wool admiral coat paired with a mohair and merino turtleneck and a twill officer pant.

Day Two Was the busiest day of New York Fashion Week Men'n for me. I attend also Carlos Campos, General Idea, Zachary Prell, Ovadia & Sons, Brett Johnson and Woodhouse shows. My following photos are personal favorite looks;

DAY (III) THREE

Cadet Men’s RTW Fall 2016

In a season when military references are all over the men’s runways, Cadet remains true to its signature utilitarian aesthetic. The look worked best on cropped uniform jackets, form-fitting jumpsuits and textured Henleys updated with inset zippers.

Although at times costume-y, the play on proportions in soft wool topcoats, belted safari jackets and cropped pants brought the collection into everyday life.

But the brand missed the mark on its tailored offering, with suits that fit poorly and lacked the military precision of the rest of the collection.

This was the first time Cadet infused silk into trousers for both men and women, which added a refined touch.

For women, some of the highlights included an open-weave long dress, silk and flowy pants and a checkered jacquard jumpsuit with a deep V opening.

Cadet is still a young brand, but it is gaining momentum. And if Raul Arevalo and Bradley Schmidt keep their eye on the ball and their vision intact, that momentum will continue.Source

One can trust the team at Timo Weiland (Donna Kang, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein) to make cool clothes for a creative class of consumers, but this season they raised the bar.

Backstage before the show, Eckstein cited the brand’s usual points of reference — New York City and music from the Sixties — but emphasized a turn to more tailored pieces. Wide leg and narrow trousers were styled with matching blazers, which were worn over zip-up sweaters with chevron. Bomber jackets came in a gingham velvet and wool tweed. A European influence was felt with the playful berets and woven T-shirts. These pieces came in an energizing color palette — mashed-up cherry red with maroon and cobalt with kelly green.

What really elevated the line was the outerwear, which ranged from a plaid peacoat, which closed the show, to a wool car coat.

Similar to the men’s offering, the women’s looks were more refined than usual, with fluid wide-leg pants, tailored coats and a wrap skirt worn as a top.

Rochambeau Men’s RTW Fall 2016

The Rochambeau fall collection took inspiration from the Nineties. Filled with oversize outerwear in epic proportions, designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper offered military ponchos, varsity fleeces and puffer vests with wide-leg shorts paired with socks and Nike Air Force One sneakers.

Fortunately the brand shied away from its previous gloomy goth pieces and rejoiced in rich and vibrant colors of cream, navy, orange and brown. Blends of corduroy, nylon with velour tied into the retro theme.

Highlights included a hooded orange anorak with an embellished elbow patch, and an elongated turtleneck paired with a front patch pullover that exemplified the oversize layered effect.

While its roots in streetwear remain evident, Rochambeau continues to elevate its offering by adding a new dimension and modernizing the trends of the past with modern fabrics.Source

Good bye NYFW Men's till the next season, And getting ready for NYFW Women's!

Sunday, 27 December 2015

Sotheby's Prints auction features more than 390 iconic and rare works from creative legends Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Andy Warhol, to name a few. The Public School have curated a portion of the pre-sale exhibition.

NEW YORK – Known for their streetwise sensibility, Public School co-founders Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have quickly become the go-to label for all the style-conscious cool kids. Their minimal, clean-lined and predominantly monochromatic but never one-note basics have also garnered accolades from the fashion establishment, earning them two Council of Fashion Designers of America awards. Shortly thereafter the duo was tapped to be creative directors of DKNY, the younger line in the Donna Karan empire. All the while Chow and Osborne have expanded the reach of their own label, debuting a women’s wear collection in 2014 to critical praise. Now they can add curator to their growing resumes — the pair will select works from the upcoming Prints and Multiples sale at Sotheby’s New York on 23–24 November for a special exhibition that will occupy the fourth-floor galleries. “We want to treat the space differently than what everyone who goes to Sotheby’s expects,” says Osborne.

“They’re wonderful to work with,” says Mary Bartow, head of the Sotheby’s Prints department. “We thought it would be interesting to have the perspective of someone linked to the art world but not part of the auction world.” Growing up in New York City, Chow and Osborne were constantly surrounded by art, both on the streets and in museums. “Being inspired by art wasn’t something we tried to do,” says Chow. “It was just a natural progression.”

As more than a thousand people traversed the rush hour–choked West Side Highway and flooded onto Pier 26—all dressed to the nines (or maybe the threes or twos, given the skimpiness of a few notable looks)—it’s fair to say that one of the very last things they were expecting was to be immersed in a contemplative experience. With the aid of his coconspirator, the artist Marina Abramovic, and the cooperation of a staggering sunset across the Hudson, Tisci made his show into a meditation on the losses of 9/11, and on slowing things down in our heads, perhaps to mourn, but also to remember how lucky we are to be alive. The audience—the seated professionals and celebrities, and the standing public—were made to wait and watch for a good hour, absorbing the spectacle of blue sky and white and pink-tinted clouds as Abramovic’s slow-moving performers, dressed in white shirts and black pants, acted out simple, strenuous, and repetitive rituals—one with a ladder, another with a tree, a third with a faucet gushing water. Stop! Abramovic seemed to be saying. Slow down and feel something! And meanwhile, in the foreground, the nonstop parade of personalities kept coming, and kept on being photographed and Instagrammed.As far as style is concerned, this was also Tisci’s opportunity to revisit and refine the ideas he’s been working through for his whole career. This year—in which a Givenchy store opens in New York City—is Riccardo Tisci’s tenth at the house, and there was a serene sense of celebration and coming of age amongst the clothes. It was a collection which spelled out and repeated almost-calligraphic black and white variations of the same sentences: Ivory slip dresses and rouleau-strapped camisoles with lace edges, worn over excellently tailored black pants cut to taper gently over pointed shoes. Supple crepe tuxedo jackets with tails, soft kimono coats, and transparent organdy trenches glimmering with jet embroidery. Many, many body-skimming sparkly silver shifts.

Aficionados of Tisci’s track record in Paris would also have re-applauded the most spectacular of hiscouture dresses—one with a degrade feather effect, and another with leather patches applied on tulle in the shape of alligator skin—which had never before been shown on live models (as opposed to showroom dummies). And then there was the face decoration, taken to the nth degree of freakishly beautiful elaboration, in studded golden jewelry, tulle frills, and lace.

That calm exposition of skill and taste, which surely grows out of nineties memories, will stay in the minds of everyone who was on Pier 26 tonight. The tragedy of 9/11 can never be overwritten by any fashion show—and nor should it be—but at the same time, anyone who condemns fashion for concerning itself with current feelings is wrong, too. Source

Idan Cohen RTW Spring 2016

Designer Idan Cohen appeared to draw inspiration from the ocean for his spring collection, with both his color palette and discernible seashell motif. A varied collection of mainly eveningwear looks were rendered in seafoam green, pale blue, coral and nude, with shell appliques and beaded shell shapes appearing on most looks.

Cohen’s strength lies in eveningwear, and he delivered a handful of red-carpet-ready gowns, including a baby blue halter cocktail number with a beaded chevron pattern. Other highlights came when he strayed from traditional eveningwear — including a fluid seafoam green kaftan showing just a hint of skin and a coral blazer-dress that riffed on men’s wear.

The bulk of the collection, however, was questionably risqué with no shortage of sheer and barely there gowns, making it difficult to imagine his designs appealing to the masses. But Cohen must know his attention-seeking customers — perhaps a “Real Housewife” or two — have an active social life. wwd,com

Friday, 11 September 2015

New York Fashion Week SS2016: The Shows. Day 1. was really rainy but I actually enjoyed the weather after all of those hot humid days. I choose simple outfit in grey shades. Asymmetrical blazer from Korea, basic black UNIQLO Chino pants, grey sprinkled henley from Marshals ans Club Monaco wool hat.

Supima Design Contest

Supima is America’s luxury cotton. Founded in 1954, the Supima brand designates an elite variety of Pima cotton grown only in California and the southwestern U.S. is prized the world over by designers and retailers who value its luster, strength, and superior softness.

The annual Supima Design Competition was created to give runway exposure to emerging talent and was modeled after the legendary 1954 Wool Secretariat competition that launched the careers of the then-teenaged Yves St. Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.

Seven of America’s top design schools (AAU, FIDM, FIT, Kent State University, Pratt BF+DA, RISD, SCAD) are asked to select one finalist from among their graduating seniors. Each finalist is asked to create a capsule collection of women’s eveningwear gowns from premium Supima denims, knits, corduroys, twills, and shirting.

A prestigious panel of judges decide the winner at a full-fledged fashion show held during New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. The winner is announced at the completion of the show and receives a $10,000 cash award,

Desigual RTW Spring 2016

Living in the city was the inspiration behind Desigual’s spring collection as the design team looked to the bold and energetic women of Barcelona. The lineup embodied three types of ladies: the carefree eccentric with a sporty twist, the eclectic sensual and the sophisticated intellectual. In the end, however, it all added up to a fun and lively show.

This was Desigual, after all, so vibrant was the operative word on the runway, including a neon floral frock with lace insets, a geometric rainbow halter dress, a tribal-print sweatshirt and an ethnic-patterned biker jacket. There were a few layering tricks, but aside from the wild headpieces, this was a tame show for Desigual. Sure, there were plenty of crazy and hectic prints, but at least they were not all mashed together in one look. Surce