This list was prompted by a comment from last weekend that it was hard to locate routes down the left end of Rosea using only the Select guide. To avoid the hassle of carrying a complete printout from ACA or the complete SE Gramps guide, this is a list of routes as encountered along with brief notes on the track, landmarks and identifying initials. Routes that I consider worthy of attention have their name in bold. Initials referred to are also in bold. Copy and paste from here into whatever format is desired. The source was my work on ACA. Hope it's useful.

The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there.

Take the Mount Rosea walking track from the carpark. After about five minutes walking another sign points the way to the top of Mt Rosea. Ignore the sign and take the left fork at this point. The track meanders its way across the hillside for another 10-15 minutes and then climbs to the cliff. From the third hairpin bend on the track make your way diagonally left across the hillside (rough, some fallen timber) until you hit rock.

Margarita 23m 18
Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.

Go left about 20 metres below an overhang to a large corner with a large tree low down and a tree at the top. Faded initial S.

Big Boys Don't Cry90m 21
Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of Meshach.

The track moves back up to the cliffline (very rough at present (2013)) and there is an initial A.

Meshach 81m 16
Starts at the letter A as for Abednego and takes the right-hand line.

Abednego87m 16
As for Meshach by the Initial A, 15m right of Coronary Country.

Abednego Direct85m 18
Start as for Abednego

Bushwalking With Gordon 90m 18
As for Cream

Cream 90m 20
Small corner 8 metres right of Coronary Country

LANDMARK : A column leans against the cliff next to the glaringly obvious intials CC and below a RURP-scarred seam.

Coronary Country 102m 26 M2
Start by the column leaning against the cliff with the intials CC.

Gillian 84m 18
Corner 10 metres left of Coronary Country

Ma Cherie 138m 16
Start as for Gillian.

If you're going to climbs beyond Twitter and Bisted then here, between Gillian and Nightmare, is a good place to drop down a few metres as the track running next to the cliff stops about 30 metres further on and a scramble would be required.

Big Chimney 100m 11
Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of Dinosaur Gully, 20 metres left of Rameses. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

St Vitus Dance 87m 17
Vegetated line 4 metres left of Big Chimney.

Left of Big Chimney the cliff breaks down considerably and the track fades out completely. In the first 220 metres beyond Big Chimney there only 3 climbs and the worth of some of these is debatable, however they have all been located. Traverse the hillside at about the same level as the base of Big Chimney - don't follow the cliffline up into the gullies. After about 65m there is a buttress with some attractive orange rock. About the same distance further on is a but

Thanks Kieran. We're already inspired by all that rock, the list helps a bit.

Another thing that wasn't totally obvious, don't try and head left from the bottom of Giant's Staircase to access these routes. It's much easier and quicker to go back down the track to the last right-hand hairpin (coming up), where you can find a rough track heading across the slope.

Too weird man. I was looking through the Select guide on Monday night, planning the next trip, and want to get to Rosea before it gets too cold. Reading the first few route desciptions, I looked at the topo and thought 'it was [is] hard to locate routes down the left end of Rosea using only the Select guide'.

Went to check it out yesterday (hoping to rap down the first pitch to see what sort of protection was on offer and then lead it). So, we climbed up Cream for about 25m(delightful btw) then did a traverse in to a stance immediately (2 or 3m?) below the major roof on CC.

No bolts there (one very rusty carrot a metre or so beneath the stance but certainly nothing worth rapping off). Good natural gear for anchors here (but who would want to leave cams behind for a rap anchor?). Assumed the belay was just over the roof (which would have been about the distance indicated for the first pitch) but an awkward (24) roll onto the ledge above the roof showed a manky rusty pin at foot level to be the only fixed gear.

Went up higher to belay (trad gear). Above was a short, friable and dirty corner. The short corner leads to a roof which leads right a couple of metres to a rusty carrot (no doubt the section of CC that was still be be freed). Rather than head up the unappealing short corner (possibly some shitty wires behind friable flakes) we stepped down right from the belay, moved 2m right to the arete and up this (very nice, similar to the style of climbing on Cream) to rejoin the original line of CC. So, all in all, a 6m variation that gives a much more enjoyable and completly free way up CC.

However, moral of the story, if you want to do the first pitch and then rap off, don't be expecting some good rap bolts - you will need to either a) place your own belay bolts, b) leave some gear or c) finish the route to the top.

Thanks Kevin, don't suppose you have any photos?
What we really need for Rosea are some really high-quality photo-topos. Joe's photos that are used in the ACA are good but not sharp enough for fine detail. And then there's the first 20 metres or so obscured by the trees. Need a project to get photos of people on the first pitches of all the good climbs.

On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:>Thanks Kevin, don't suppose you have any photos? >What we really need for Rosea are some really high-quality photo-topos.>Joe's photos that are used in the ACA are good but not sharp enough for>fine detail. And then there's the first 20 metres or so obscured by the>trees. Need a project to get photos of people on the first pitches of all>the good climbs.

Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC trip and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)

On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:>On 6/05/2013 pecheur wrote:>>Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC trip>>and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)>That could be dangerous.

Come on Kieran you either want to do this or you don't...

I'll even consider going if I don't have to do any of that aid malarkey :p

On 7/05/2013 pecheur wrote:>On 6/05/2013 kieranl wrote:>>On 6/05/2013 pecheur wrote:>>>Kieran given how hard it is to find stuff you should organise a VCC>trip>>>and promise to show everyone where the routes are :)>>That could be dangerous.>>Come on Kieran you either want to do this or you don't... >>I'll even consider going if I don't have to do any of that aid malarkey>:p
I disagree that it's hard to find things at Rosea, you just walk along the base and identify the climbs as you walk past. There's no bashing up and down gullies.
But to do that you need a proper guide.
I say it could be dangerous because last time I pointed Noddy at something he almost died ; but what did he expect climbing with only half a rack?
VCC Trip? Probably a bit late to organise one before winter and a lot of lines are wet in early spring.
If people are interested, what about the Saturday of the Queen's Birthday weekend - if the weather is fine? We could take a couple of bow-saws and clear a bit of the fallen timber at the same time.