Most sunscreen products don’t actually work

The sunscreen aisle can be a dizzying consumer experience, with each bottle touting a different claim, sun protection factor and, of course, price tag.

But when it comes to how well the products work and how safe they are to use, nearly three-quarters don’t stack up, according to a sweeping new review conducted by the nonprofit Environmental Working Group. The findings are only the latest evidence that, when it comes to buying sun protection products, consumers have to be discerning.

The Environmental Working Group review — which the group has been doing every year for a decade — evaluated about 900 sunscreens, 500 SPF-labeled moisturizers and more than 100 lip products by factors such as ultraviolet-ray protection, health hazards associated with ingredients and breakdown during exposure to the sun.

People tend to assume that the higher a sunscreen’s SPF, the better it works. But the Environmental Working Group said that the effect of nominally higher-rated protection may actually be “negligible,” and products with SPFs between 30 and 50 work well.

This can sway which sunscreen a person buys but also, and more importantly, how long he or she stays in the sun. Those using high-SPF products “get as many UVB-inflicted sunburns as unprotected sunbathers and are likely to absorb more damaging UVA radiation,” the report said.

It’s worth noting that too-low SPF values can also be a problem. American Academy of Dermatology standards require an SPF of 30 or higher, among other factors, a standard that about 90% of top-rated sunscreens met.

SPF numbers can also be wrong, the Environmental Working Group report said. Lab tests of SPF can vary widely, which is especially true for SPFs greater than 50. (Testing also doesn’t replicate real-world conditions, where most people don’t use a lot of sunscreen or reapply it enough, or the product may be old or it may have been stored in a hot car.)

Edgewell Personal Care Co.
EPC, -2.52%
which makes Hawaiian Tropic sunscreen, said that it stands behind “the quality and performance levels of all our products, which are formulated to be safe and effective.”

“All our sun care products undergo appropriate and rigorous testing to ensure they are properly labeled and meet all relevant FDA regulations,” the company said. “People can feel confident using our products for safe and effective sun protection, when applied as directed by the product labels.”

Another major sunscreen maker, Bayer AG (Coppertone)
BAYRY, -0.03%
which makes Coppertone, said its sunscreens are evaluated by independent experts for safety and efficacy and that testing includes real-world use studies involving outdoor recreation.

“EWG’s Sunscreen Guide is not a scientific document, nor has it undergone peer-review, or been reviewed for accuracy by recognized sunscreen experts,” a spokesperson for Bayer said.

The EWG identified other issues, too. Of the two kinds of ultraviolet rays — ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B rays (UVB) — SPF only represents protection from the latter, which mainly causes sunburn and certain types of skin cancers.

But sunscreens are not as good at protecting from UVA rays, and the level of protection varies by product. That means a person using high-SPF sun products could encounter other kinds of sun damage, including suppression of the immune system and melanoma risk.

Plus, there are more sun-filtering chemicals in high-SPF products, the report said, which could have health risks like allergic reactions, tissue damage and even possibly hormone disruption. “If studies showed that high-SPF products were better at reducing skin damage and skin-cancer risk, that extra chemical exposure might be justified,” the report said. “But they don’t.”

2. Vitamin A (also known as retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid)

Sunscreen with Vitamin A is fairly common, although it’s definitely on the decline, with the additive dropping from 40% of products in 2010 to just 14% this year, according to the Environmental Working Group.

The ingredient is used because it’s believed to be anti-aging, but there’s also evidence that it can be harmful — it may help grow skin tumors and lesions when used on skin exposed to sun. That research isn’t the final word on Vitamin A, but it is “troubling,” the report said, and the working group wants manufacturers not to use it until there’s proof that it’s safe.

But beyond that, the group is also worried about excessive Vitamin A exposure, as it relates to sun products and any products containing it. The Environmental Working Group recommends avoiding those.

Sunscreen includes plenty of active ingredients to protect the skin and to keep the product from breaking down in the sun. But because it’s supposed to be used frequently and all over the body, it’s wise to pay attention to what’s inside.

And there’s reason to be vigilant, according to the Environmental Working Group report, since many of these ingredients haven’t been studied for safety. Top of the list is oxybenzone, present in a majority of non-mineral sunscreens, which can cause allergic reactions and affect testosterone levels. The group recommends avoiding it, along with several other widespread ingredients.

“Given the pervasiveness of oxybenzone exposures, further study is needed to evaluate the association between oxybenzone and hormone disruption in children and adults,” the EWG report said.

Another major player in the sunscreen industry, Johnson & Johnson (Neutrogena)
JNJ, +0.01%
did not respond to MarketWatch’s request for comment.

The industry rings up about $400 million in revenue a year, according to IBISWorld, and has seen rising consumption in recent years thanks to growing awareness of skin-cancer risk.

Intraday Data provided by SIX Financial Information and subject to terms of use. Historical and current end-of-day data provided by SIX Financial Information. All quotes are in local exchange time. Real-time last sale data for U.S. stock quotes reflect trades reported through Nasdaq only. Intraday data delayed at least 15 minutes or per exchange requirements.