For love in the Spice Islands

Jasreen Mayal Khanna picks out the perfect itinerary for 5 romantic days in Zanzibar

Mention Zanzibar and images of spice shops, labyrinthine markets and pristine beaches spring to the mind. In the 15th century, it was a prominent trading hub between the Arabs, Africans and the Indians. Today, the forgotten island of Ujunga (as it is known locally) is returning to limelight as a spectacular travel destination for those looking for cultural beach break.

I always dreamt of travelling to this East African archipelago. So imagine how excited I was when my husband gifted me tickets to Zanzibar as a birthday gift. It would be my first visit to Africa and despite all my extensive research (thanks, Google!), I was not prepared for what happened next: I fell in love with Zanzibar, and by proxy with all of Africa. The people I met on this tiny island amazed me. From the local Masai selling souvenirs on the beach, to a savvy hotelier who has spent 40 years building properties all over the continent, everyone I met was humble, wise and ever-smiling. They didn’t sweat the small stuff. Everywhere I went, I heard Hakuna Matata—“no worries”.

Here’s the itinerary I suggest for a romantic five-day vacation in Zanzibar:

DAY 1: Stone Town

The old Anglican Cathedral in Stone Town. Photo: 123rf

Start your day with breakfast at Stone Town Café which serves home-baked coconut bread and coffee in the traditional Swahili pots. Then, walk to the former slave market located in the heart of the town, passing local markets and ancient traders’ homes, which have now been converted to boutique hotels. On the way back, drop by the innumerable souvenir shops to buy gifts for friends and family back home: African handicrafts, jewellery and clothing from local designers—Doreen Mashika is well known for her refined yet ethic garments and gorgeous hand cuffs. Pop into Lazuli café in the Shangani district (off Kenyatta road), for a quick lunch after which you can avoid the afternoon sun by ducking into Cinnamon Spa owned by star photographer, Javed Jafferji. End with dinner at the rooftop restaurant of 236 Hurumzi hotel (236 Hurumzi Street; +255 777 423 266)—their fish steamed in banana leaves is my favourite meal on the island. After dinner every night, we’d go to the rooftop bar at Maru Maru hotel, which has the dreamiest setting for shisha under the starry sky.

DAY 2: Prison Island & Nakupenda sandbanks

Swimmers at Nakupenda. Photo: Jasreen Mayal Khanna

A day trip from Stone Town, you’ll find local tour operators who offer you take you to these islands. However, instead of crowding on a boat with 30 other people, it’s more romantic (and cheaper) to hire your own boat and pack a picnic basket for lunch (make sure you carry also carry sufficient water and sunscreen). First stop is Prison Island where you can see the giant 200-year-old Aldabra tortoises gifted to Zanzibar by the island of Seychelles. There’s a café on the island and a bar as well in case you want to stop here for a meal. Then you’re taken to the Nakupenda sandbanks which emerge out of the ocean only during low tide and are stunning jewels in the middle of the Indian Ocean. We swam in the turquoise waters for hours and even spotted starfish on the beach. Finally, exhausted we lay on the beach and made a meal of sandwiches, beer and cookies. In the evening, we were dropped back to Stone Town and explored Forodhani Park where the night market comes up every evening. A feast for the senses, you’ll find local delicacies like grilled seafood and Zanzibari pizza (a crepe stuffed with filling of your choice, from meat and onions to bananas and chocolate).

DAY 3: Paje & Kizimkazi

Kitesurfers at Paje Beach. Photo: Jasreen Mayal Khanna

We wandered to the south side of the island initially to visit a restaurant called The Rock, which is literally situated on a rock in the middle of the sea. Sitting on the terrace, surrounded by the 360-degree view of the endless horizon, it was truly a very special experience. After lunch, you must go to nearby Paje beach which is very popular for kite surfing because of its calm, shallow waters. Floating among the waves, we could see the athletic kite surfers zoom past us hanging on to their colourful parachutes. Further down, on the southern tip of the island is Kizimkazi village—a popular spot for sighting bottlenose and humpback dolphins. Here, you can take a boat tour and even jump into the water to get up, close and personal with these beautiful creatures.

DAY 4: Nungwi & Kendwa

The Jetty restaurant at Essque Zalu Zanzibar

Nungwi & Kendwa are the best beaches in Zanzibar and these beaches are also home to the island’s premier luxury resort. Talcum-powder-like soft sand, water that is two shades of turquoise and beach bars dotting the landscape—this is heaven for sea lovers. Z hotel is a quaint boutique property with a gorgeous beachfront and friendly staff. However, for those looking to enjoy blissful spa treatments, fine dining and a subtly luxurious environment, Essque Zalu Zanzibar is a stunning hotel, also located in Nungwi. We had cocktails and dinner in their Middle Eastern restaurant on the jetty for our last meal on the island; and the food, views and setting were excellent. The sun setting behind their makuti thatched roofs was a spectacular sight and an apt end to a blissful vacation.

DAY 5 Mnemba Island

Mnemba Island. Photo: 123rf

This is the one I missed out on thanks to bad weather. Mnemba Island is one of the world’s most beautiful dive sites. It is a private island resort, but you’ll find many dive shops in Nungwi that arrange trips to the Mnemba reefs once a week. Be sure to check weather reports and stick to a reputed diving company (East Africa Divers is the oldest dive shop on the island). Mnemba has unbelievably diverse marine life. Visual treats on offer include colourful coral and fish such as blue spotted rays, black snappers, groupers, red tooth triggers, flounders, octopuses, leaf fish, scorpion fish, turtles, dolphins—and if you’re lucky, even whale sharks. Great company to be in before you return to civilisation.