As our guide and friend Firat packed us into cabs at the end of our journey through Istanbul, he whispered to us very seriously the Secrets of Istanbul. He withheld several upon our promises to return foraminimumoftendays!! in July. These photos make it easy to see why the city is gray and melancholy to its natives, but I've never met such friendly and passionate people. And it's true: they don't have squirrels, only poor cats.