You can also rubberstamp with blue ink pads, or try placing a stencil, leaf
or object on paper or fabric and rub a toothbrush filled with blue ink over a
fine piece of screening. To age the 'faux' cyanotypes I use Adirondack caramel
ink pad. If you’re lucky enough to have some old blueprints, try writing
with a bleach pen on them.
If you want to take it further and make semi
real Cyanotypes you can purchase prepared light sensitive paper or fabric on which
you can place objects and negatives (which you can process in your image
software programme by turning a image into a negative, increase the contrast
and print out on transparent film ) and expose them to the sun, when rinsed under
the tap the images appear.
Just think ‘blue’ and you can come up with
some dreamy ultramarine affects, or save up for that Nikon camera with the built
in cyanotype setting!

If you don’t have a camera with a color option to print in ‘cyanotype’, you can create
your own by simulating the beautiful deep blue tones on paper or fabric.
The cyanotype photographic process actually dates to 1842 when Sir John Herschel
placed a prepared blueprint paper in contact with a negative and then exposed
it to light. The print was then washed with water to fix the image.
Today paper, chemicals and treated fabric to achieve this technique are
available.
At the early part of the 19th century,
amateurs used this same process on postcards, and artists can copy these
images as found or achieve the same affects digitally and by printing in blue
ink. In Photoshop ( I use Adobe Photoshop Elements 2) you can change any
color image by going to Image> Adjustments> Hue Saturation, check the Colorize
box and move the Hue slider to 230 thereabouts. You can play with the Saturation
and Lightness sliders to taste. You may also want to adjust the Brightness/Contrast
of your picture to your likeing
In Paint Shop Pro its a simple
matter of opening up any picture and going to Colors> Colorize sliding the
Hue slider to around 150 and adjusting your Saturation.
There are other
techniques for creating faux cyanotypes, for your artwork, water transfers are
easy to do (see below)

After colorizing your image, you could distress the edges with Photoshop brushes
(find some here) using the rubber. Create another Layer and paintbucket fill it with a tea stain
color and set the blending layer mode to Multiply. This will give that characteristic
yellowness of old Cyanotypes. Flatten the layers when done, > Layer
> Flatten Image

Water transfers
the technique is to print your photos in blue, or whatever
color you wish, on 'Multi-Project Photo Paper". Hammermill makes an excellent product
for inkjet printers (available at Wallmart). Cutout the image you wish to
use, lightly put warm water on some hot press watercolor paper, position the
photo image side down, wait a few seconds, and remove. A transfered picture remains.