If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Stewart,
It snowed here a couple days ago, does that count? No where near as cold as Anchortown right now! No more minus temps for me. Actually been really cold in AZ all last week, into 30's and lower at night in Carefree.
Hangar is also our garage, so have double garage door with clear glass panels on one end, the other end shown is single glass door with obscure glass in that one, faces runway.
Hope to be in Anchorage maybe later this month to fly the lightweight Husky, Starr is closing in on the final stuff now.
John

Maybe not leaky skylights but definitely solar tubes. Don't leak and provide lots of nice free light . Use South side roof for max effect in Winter. I have one in the guest hallway bathroom and people are always looking for the switch to turn the light off. Another over the kitchen counter. My hangar is 50X60 (Main Part) with white metal ceiling and I am putting six solar tubes in the south side before the blown insulation goes in. I believe they are about $250 each.

I sell those! The problem is in a dark winter climate they don't light up in the dark. In the long summer days light from the ceiling isn't important. They make sense in southern climates as energy savers. High efficiency electric lights work better up north.

I sell those! The problem is in a dark winter climate they don't light up in the dark. In the long summer days light from the ceiling isn't important. They make sense in southern climates as energy savers. High efficiency electric lights work better up north.

kinda like solar heat panels up here, when they work well, we don't need them... when we need them, they don't work well....

Architects are requied to provide natural light into interior spaces per building code so Solatubes/Sun Tunnels have a market. Sadly the codes don't account for hours of natural dark. FWIW they work great in Texas.

I live in Virginia on the Chesapeake. They work great here. I have a two foot strip of translucent fiberglass siding above the ten foot steel siding that admits some daylight on the South side wall. (Admits some cold, too). If you are just passing through it gives sufficient illumination to move around but you need more to putz around or do any detail work. We installed a double row of LED lighting into the white metal ceiling and it works pretty well. Only problem is ceiling is 12 feet 4 inches high and bulbs sometimes burn out. Lowes replaces them but it is a pain getting up there to make the change.

I sell those! The problem is in a dark winter climate they don't light up in the dark. In the long summer days light from the ceiling isn't important. They make sense in southern climates as energy savers. High efficiency electric lights work better up north.

Stewart you just you need to bring an extend range light tube to market that would reach sunlight in the winter.

Glenn, can you send one of those hangar ambiance units up here, a blue color would be best with our interior design

Great discussion on skylights/solar tubes. We are putting in some windows, but one item folks always forget about on the roof- making any projections seal up with standing snow loads!

In a rain climate it is easy to keep a skylight or roof projection from leaking, calk it so things run off. With snow and ice, it will stick at some point, and you then have standing water... a pinhole three inches up can seem like a faucet has been turned on when looking at finished sheetrock. For me, the fewer projections in the roof the better! When possible we won't even put our stove pipe through our roof due to snow issues.

For those of you wanting to say "just get a metal roof." Well, yes our metal roofs slide, but it is not always with one inch, we will have a foot of snow standing on our roof at times, you can even see a line of separation between the peak and the side snow where the side slides a few inches at a time. Anything sticking out of the roof is a bad thing- including screw heads.

….For those of you wanting to say "just get a metal roof." Well, yes our metal roofs slide, but it is not always with one inch, we will have a foot of snow standing on our roof at times, you can even see a line of separation between the peak and the side snow where the side slides a few inches at a time......

I've seen flatter pitched metal roofs where there was quite a bit of snow built up before it slid.
Broke or damaged everything sticking up through the roof-- flues, stink pipes, etc.
Also damaged the roofing panels where the aforementioned pipes bent over,
to the point of needing the panels replaced.
It's a PITA replacing lapped panels out in the middle of a roof.

Put epoxy on all of the hangar floors we have done spanning the last two decades, just finished my personal hangar for my FX3
And used a adobe colored concrete and then polished it. Looks great and will our last the epoxy.

George, lots of snow in upstate NY, we have had 4' in one day at times. Scott and Rich who restore Cubs just North of Syarcuse and just East of Lake Ontario which is a record making lake effect snow machine. They have weeks where it snows 3 or 4 feet every day. Roof of choice is a metal roof around here, standing seam is the best but most just use the 3 rib panel. They make an inverted V shaped diverters that gets screwed up stream of you pipes to split the snow like the bow of a ship does

Glenn

"Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

Crickets. Those are the wedge thingies to divide snow around a pipe. Sometimes, anyway.

Given a few years of birch weep on the surface my 12/12 metal roof holds snow as well as shingles. 2-3 feet is common. Until there's a warm spell. When it slides it goes one side at a time in the middle of the night and rocks the cabin enough to scare everyone awake. The other side goes right after you get back to sleep. It's an unwritten rule of nature.

Put epoxy on all of the hangar floors we have done spanning the last two decades, just finished my personal hangar for my FX3
And used a adobe colored concrete and then polished it. Looks great and will our last the epoxy.

I predict you are really going to like the polished surface. It cleans up so easily, far superior to bare concrete or epoxy in my opinion. Most of the time I just give it a quick Caddy Shack (leaf blower) and when I want to dress it up for Saturday night I use a 60" wide micro-fiber dust mop.