Review: Cheeseburger doughnut debuts at South County shop

Bacon donuts? Been there, done that. So how about doughnuts with candy bars and cereal, or a doughnut burger?

In the "what will the think of next" files, Delivicious Donuts in Mission Viejo is getting wackier than anyone else locally with its cake, glazed and old fashioneds. Again, more than a little inspiration comes from places like Voodoo Doughnut in Portland, where topping chocolate cake doughnuts with Cocoa Puffs has been standard practice for years. Devilicious caught our attention, though, when they announced they'd be doing doughnuts featuring sushi, chicken and avocado as well as the ever popular bacon maple bars.

So far, the craziest menu items haven't materialized, but this newly opened South County spot is definitely pushing the limits. Is it a gimmick? Sure, but even the weirdest items are so far weirdly tasty.

So far, the only savory doughnut creation is well-known to Paula Deen fans: A burger sandwiched between halves of a classic glazed instead of a bun ($5.95). Owners say the rest of the wacky menu will be rolled out slowly, as they get an idea of what customers want.

I'm intrigued and a little terrified. The airy doughnut collapses st the lightest tough, and sticky sugar glaze is somehow all over my hands in an instant. Messy as it is, I find I can't stop eating it. The plain patty is cooked through, with a bit of char to it. A melted slice of pepper jack is the only condiment. It works though – Anything larger or juicier would be much too much with this sugary exterior. Eating it satisfies some primal desire for meat, fat and sugar.

Back at the office, the rest of the doughnuts disappear quickly.

Each is a little moister and softer than typical doughnut shop fare, which justifies the higher price ($1.95 to $3.25 per doughnut). Still, I'm wishing for something with more of a made-from-scratch flavor, the substance behind the flashy toppings and ingredients.

The red velvet is gone first, its bright color and fluffy texture proving irresistible. A topping of crushed Twix candy bars also proves to be exceptionally successful, as the soft caramel and chocolate add a gooey quality to the cake doughnut.

Pumpkin, a seasonal flavor, has the taste of one of those addictive spiced lattes coffee shops shill this time of year. Bavarian cream filling in a split yeast-raised doughnut with Nutella and strawberries is a lighter way to get a sweet fix.

Business was slow when I stopped in on a weekday morning, but the gamble of this unusual doughnut shop could pay off. Foodies have lined up late-night doughnut fixes at more humble spots like M & M Donuts in Anaheim and Famous Subs & Donuts in Costa Mesa. Devilicious helpfully is open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays. A stop here after hitting the nearby Albertaco's might become my favorite new way to end a weekend night in South County.

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