Somewhat Expensive Umberto`s Is Worth It

December 11, 1986

If you want great Italian food and don`t mind paying for it, Umberto`s of Long Island Italian restaurant in Plantation may be for you.

Open only for dinner, Umberto`s is an intimate, elegant restaurant with linen tablecloths, fine china and tuxedoed waiters and waitresses. Around 7:30 each night, owner Joe Umberto strolls around the restaurant singing to the accompaniment of an accordionist.

The Budget Diner decided to take advantage of Umberto`s limited early bird special, offered from 4 to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 4 to 5:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

During the early bird special, 12 entrees are offered as complete dinners for $8.95. The Budget Diner chose the stuffed eggplant parmigiana, which was two thin slices of fried eggplant stuffed with ricotta cheese and topped with mozzarella. It was delicious, although the portion was rather small. This entree is $10 on the regular menu.

The guest ordered chicken parmigiana, which was a thin filet of chicken, breaded and fried, smothered with marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese. The portion of fork-tender chicken complemented by the spicy sauce was very generous and the guest pronounced it ``delicious.`` This entree also is $10 on the regular menu.

All early bird dinners come with soup, salad, a choice of a side of spaghetti, ziti or vegetable, and dessert and coffee. There are two soups to choose from, either escarole, a delicious homemade vegetable-type soup, or minestrone, which the guest pronounced ``the best I`ve ever had.`` The minestrone did not have a tomato-based broth as most do and included garbanzo beans among the ingredients.

The salad was also a standout. Fresh greens tossed with a light, piquant vinaigrette. The garlic bread served with the salad, however, was a greasy, burnt disappointment.

The Budget Diner got the impression that Umberto`s does not want to emphasize the early bird specials. When the Budget Diner was seated, the regular menu was offered. It was only after the waitress was asked did she bring the early bird menu.

Service in general was not conscientious. The restaurant employees gathered in groups chattering noisily while we sat with empty water glasses and dirty plates. And the restaurant was not busy -- the Budget Diner`s was one of only two occupied tables. The service personnel were pleasant, however, when they were at the table.