I'm 57 and started playing guitar when I was 10. Back in the 70's I played in many bands and played a Electra White Zephyr(2264) with the "open book" headstock. Not sure whatever happened to it but I've been wanting to get another for years. Well I finally bought one yesterday but they guy is keeping the pickups, not the original anyway, and the bridge has been replaced. He is sending the original bridge. Some screws missing off the original bridge is my understanding.

Anyway, I want to restore it as close to original as I can. I'm also concerned about the pots and wiring. I'm looking for both a bridge & neck pickup of the same vintage. I's also like to see if there might be some pictures that would show how they were wired? Maybe someone has a White Zephyr they could take pictures of the pots and wiring? Also looking to find out what year my new 2264 is?

Welcome. Pups turn up from time to time on e-bay and the for sale section here. Member Shacklton had some a week or so ago. I don't know if they sold. Pups of this vintage have a tendency to become microphonic. You may want to wax pot the new pups before you put them in.

Hmm. I don't know how helpful just the pics will be.All of the wires are shielded and no wire colors are visible.So, it's gonna look like the shielded wire goes to the other shielded wire which then goes into the body.

I have a set of pickups as well. I bought an elvin bishop model with the original pickups that are both covered from the same era (open book headstock). These have already been potted (back to the statement earlier that these pickups need potting). The pickups both read around the 8K mark which is pretty standard I think for these models. If you are interested let me know, as I am putting expensive aftermarket Sheptone replacements in my Elvin Bishop (it has other parts changed on it already). PM me or email me if interested.

As far as the bridge, they come up from time to time. But the best replacement usually is a standard Gotoh metric tuneomatic bridge. You can get them from http://www.stewmac.com and they are not expensive. You can also use most generic metric replacements as well - but the Gotoh may be *slightly* better quality. The only "trick" is you have to use the mounting posts included with your new bridge - and screw those into the bushings that are currently in your guitar. If you try to use the posts included with your guitar they will not work correctly. But the threads of the included bushings and spacing are usually a standard size. Let's say I have never had this NOT work and I have worked on many many Electra LP copies. This still looks right, and actually plays as good or better.

Even cheap thinner (ABR sized, and usually have a retaining wire for the saddle screws) metric bridges will work in a pinch, but they won't quite have the mass or the intonation range of the more modern wider metric tuneomatics. Some people are fine with ABR styles - the tone is slightly brighter sometimes and some people like that. But quality on the really inexpensive stuff is all over the place. They generally do fit if they are metric and you use their posts. The metric ones have the style of posts that are wider and adjust by a flat screw driver from the top.

As far as pots - full size 500K Alpha pots (most use Audio or "A" taper) should be very close to the original quality pots that may or may not be in there. These should fit original holes and knobs. The original pots seldom go bad, they usually work fine after a few squirts of Caig Deoxit DN-5 or D-5 electronics cleaner. Squirt some inside the pot opening near the terminals, and move the pot back and forth for the full travel until it loosens up and is smooth. Generally 5-10 times is fine. Wiring is just like a Les Paul. You can go to a "50s" style LP wiring if you want to retain your highs a little better when the volume pots are decreased (a slight variation of the modern wiring of the tone pot and cap). Either Modern, or Vintage 50s will work fine.

The tailpiece is different slightly from the new ones, so use the original if you have it. If not, you will have to find one from an Electra or similar or you will have to buy a new generic metric one and replace it (bushings and all). Be careful if you pull the bushings out. There are guides on youtube how to do it more safely. But if you go that route, you may have to slightly drill out the bushing hole for the new bushing size. Be careful, and use tape over the paint so as not to chip it as badly. Look how to do that online. You may get lucky and NOT have to drill it out. I have had to do this before, so that is why I say this.

If the input jack is intermittent I generally change it with a stiffer switchcraft model. Sometimes these require a slightly larger hole. I generally keep the tree-way switch, although the full sized replacements are a lot better quality than the "box" type used by all japanese makers during this time. It wouldn't hurt to put in a newer one, especially if it gets intermittent. Another area of change are the tuning keys. These are substandard on this model compared to modern ones to most people. If you feel that way a good set of Gotohs or similar quality aftermarket ones might help your guitar stay in tune better. If you are going for as stock as possible and don't mind the covered keys that are stock, then by all means keep it standard.

That should be a killer guitar - even if you have to replace a few parts.