The 1998 Fazer is powered by a four-stroke, 16-valve,
in-line, four-cylinder engine with displacement measuring 36.55-cubic
inches. This motor generates 95 horsepower at 11,500 rpm and 45.0
foot-pounds of torque at 9,500 rpm. It has a six-speed transmission and a
liquid cooling system. The 1998 Fazer has a top speed of 139.8 mph.

Yamaha Fazer Brakes, Weight and Fuel Capacity

The 1998 Fazer has dual-disc front brakes and single-disc
rear brakes. It has a seat height of 31.1 inches at its lowest setting
and a dry weight totaling 416.7 lbs. The Fazer has and electric starter
and a fuel capacity of 4.75 gallons.

Yamaha Thundercat Engine and Transmission

The 1998 Thundercat is powered by a four-stroke, 16-valve,
in-line, four-cylinder engine with a displacement of 36.55-cubic inches.
It generates 100.00 horsepower at 11,500 rpm and 48.7 foot-pounds of
torque at 9,500 rpm. The Thundercat has a six-speed transmission and a
liquid cooling system.

Yamaha Thundercat Brakes, Weight and Capacity

The Thundercat has dual-disc front brakes and single-disc
rear brakes. It has a dry weight of 412.3 lbs. and a seat height of 31.3
inches at its lowest setting. The 1998 Thundercat has an electric
starter, a 5.0-gallon fuel capacity and a top speed of 158.4 mph.

4 Suggested Answers

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i had same problem turned out to be electrical issue check all your wiring connections under the seat and under your fuel tank and if there all fine try checking that your fuel pump motor is running mine wasnt because of damp on my wiring connectors. when you turn on the ignition the bike should click a few times and your fuel pump should come on look under your tank looks like this with 2 tubes running from your fuel tank http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/yamaha-fzs-600-fazer-00-fuel-pump_W0QQitemZ250559832283QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&rvr_id=&cguid=6d2769071260a0e2048322d3fffcee00this needs to be running or you will be riding the bike on gravity fed fuel and as soon as you open the bike up you will not get enough to the engine and will cut out hope this helps

Check for any splits on the rubber intake sleeve.this is what connects the carb to the bike.If this does not rectify the fault then strip down and clean the carb jets especially the idle jet as it may be slightly blocked causeing such symptoms.good luck

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The 1998 Fazer has dual-disc front brakes and single-disc
rear brakes. It has a seat height of 31.1 inches at its lowest setting
and a dry weight totaling 416.7 lbs. The Fazer has and electric starter
and a fuel capacity of 4.75 gallons.

Sounds like you have an automatic choke problem. The choke mechanism sends more fuel to the carburetors when you just kick it over and then as the engine gets warm the choke (fuel enrichment) goes away as its unneeded. They may have cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, but they may have omitted adjustment of the automatic choke mechanism. As far as your electrical problems, the no. 1 problem with bike electrics is grounding and No. 2 is shorting. I suggest you buy a Haynes manual for your bike, if there is one available. Regardless, remove all the ground screws one at a time and inspect and clean them from corrosion and put them back on. Trim back rotted wiring and cut off bad connectors connectors and replace with new. Try out the system and see if everything works. If something isn't working and your fuses are all good, then you have a short somewhere... usually switches. You can fix them... you have to buy new.

Check your rear brake resevoir. Fill it with Dot 4 brake fluid and proceed to bleed the brakes, If this does not resore your braking and there is no sign of a leak on the rear caliper, you will have to replace the seals in the master cylinder, or the complete cylinder.

If the battery keeps dying, you need to have the battery checked. Take it out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to Load Test the battery for you. If the battery is good, you need to check the charging system. To check the output of the charging system, first, fully charge the battery. Then connect a voltmeter to the battery, red meter lead to the positive post, black meter lead to the negative post. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5-15.0 volts. If not, you need to check the stator. Since you didn't tell me what year or model your bike was, if you'll respond and supply that information, I'll tell you how to check the alternator output.

you may need a new rear brake switch, most bikes it opperates from a spring pulling from the rear brake pedal. some contact cleaner may help.
It may only need some adjustment, there is usually a bracket that you can turn the switch in, to make it opperate sooner

You didnt say what bike, but some switches opperate off the brake fluid pressure, in which case it needs a new switch

Did you put a new battery in it? If not have it load tested and replace if needed. Check the grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. Check the stator by going to the plug on the right front down tube, with a muti meter take a reading with the bike running on the side that goes back toward the engine, I forget the values but you should get a reading at idle and then as you rev the motor the reading should climb. If all of the above check out OK the problem will be your voltage regulator.