A fine toad-in-the-hole demands the very best sausages. For maximum flavour, look for bangers that have been made on a small scale, ideally from traditional breeds of pig, which will have been developed for flavour and succulence. It goes without saying that buying free-range or organic pork supports producers who treat their livestock well.

Sausages can contain all sorts of additives, so when buying them ready-packed read the label carefully - sausages are made with minced meat, which means they have a shorter shelf life than real cuts of meat, so many producers, even if they avoid other artificial additives, will still use preservatives such as sulphur dioxide - it's certainly not essential, though.

Really inferior sausages may also contain colourings, artificial flavourings and binders - for which there is no excuse - but don't be put off by a small amount of rusk or breadcrumb. This holds fat and moisture, and improves the texture and 'bite'. Bear in mind, though, that it also means many sausages aren't suitable for people who can't eat gluten. For organic, gluten-free bangers, try graigfarm.co.uk.

Farmers' markets are a very good source of sausages made from pork and other meats such as boar or venison, but beware of over-creative recipes. Lemongrass and lychee will rarely have the edge over good old pork and herb. Having said that, a little fruit can be very welcome if the sausage is skilfully made - I've enjoyed sausages containing apple or apricot, for instance. Go to farmersmarket.net to find one near you. If you don't have a farmers' market nearby, ask your butcher if they make their own bangers - and grill them about exactly what they put in them. Alternatively, order sausages by mail. You'll have no trouble finding good sources on the internet - for organic, additive-free examples, try wellhungmeat.com or providencefarm.co.uk.