Doo.Ri

Doo-Ri Chung is almost ready to shed her "jersey girl" ID. There wasn't a fluid knit dress in the lineup, although the fabric the designer focused on was, in fact, a bonded jersey, or two pieces of fabric fused together. "It's much more sculptural," she said backstage, explaining that she was also interested in graphic textures, specifically exotic skins. The show opened with a series of chic little black dresses made from that sculptural materialin pod, hourglass, or bell silhouetteswhich were embroidered or spliced with curving shapes that accentuated the models' forms. It closed with a few more short cocktail dresses that mined similar territory. One organza shift was appliquéd with scores of concentric ovals of chiffon, with results that evoked scales. Another was stitched with tiny Swarovski crystals to the same effect.

In between came a diverse group of looks that showed off Doo.Ri's expanding range. A charcoal blouse, a quilted chiffon vest, and a sexy, slim pant demonstrated Chung's tailoring chops. The designer also introduced a lot of knits, the most desirable being a tank top-and-shrug twinset in cashmere. Another sign that Chung is moving on, and up: She designed all of the accessories herselfshoes, hats, gloves, and jewelry.