My new favorite climb at Church Bowl! Love pulling that little roof with great pro! The crux for me were the moves above the roof. Peeled right off that baby onto my #1 - it held - yea! The climb keeps your attention!

I don't recall 12' of 5.8 above the fixed pin. Just a couple of moves past the pin, then it gets easier and less steep. There is also a finger crack about 8' above the pin where you can place pro if you want. For most people the crux is the 5.10a right-leaning crack above the roof, before the fixed pin. It's hard to hang on and place gear in the slightly flaring crack. Most people who can lead through this crux will not have trouble on the face moves at the pin.

This climb is very well protected until the top. A nut or two can be slotted beneath the crux mini-roof. Save a few medium-sized cams for the mini-roof and crack above (I used a #3 Metolius cam in the roof and a #6 Metolius cam high in the crack above). From the fixed pin there is about 12' of 5.8 face to the next pro, but this can be easily bypassed by traversing about 20' left on a narrow (1-2") ledge (about 5.5 but no pro) to the top of Church Bowl Lieback. If taking the traverse option, scramble up to the next tree to belay so the follower can't pendulum into the corner of Church Bowl Lieback.

Just to the right of Church Bowl Lieback. Well worth the time. Easy climbing up to the right leaning crack, or try the direct start with a spicy slab move to gain the crack. Crux is a long move left just below the roof. I think you can TR this from CBL if you scramble up and right, need 2 ropes.

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