The Magic of Cumberland Island

I really enjoy traveling, especially to destinations with beaches. I’ve visited scores of beaches and islands in the Gulf of Mexico and in the Atlantic Ocean, along with a few in the Caribbean. I’ve experienced some amazing shorelines, and each had its own unique appeal. Among my travels, however, I haven’t found anywhere with the fascinating history, the mystique, and the pristine natural beauty of Cumberland Island. Luckily for me, this charming isle is practically in my own back yard.

Cumberland Island is located just off the coast of Georgia. One of the state’s “Golden Isles,” it’s Georgia’s largest barrier island. Cumberland is more than seventeen miles long, covering 36,415 acres of maritime forest, sand dunes, marsh, meandering tidal creeks, and ancient live oaks gnarled and sculpted by the salt breezes from the Atlantic and adorned with lacy Spanish moss.

Cumberland Island is a superb vacation spot, whether you’re lodging at the beautiful Greyfield Inn or camping at one of the island’s campgrounds. Even if you have only a few hours to spare, you can spend an afternoon on the island to experience its wonder. Visitors can swim in the gentle surf, play on the seventeen miles of pristine beaches, hike some of the fifty miles of trails, fish, bird watch, collect shells and fossilized sharks’ teeth, view wildlife in its natural habitat, or walk among the ruins of once-splendid mansions, the old cemetery, or the Ice House Museum.

There are no real roads on the island, but bike rentals are available. You won’t find any fast-food restaurants or stores on Cumberland, either, and the only way to reach this island paradise is by boat or ferry. A trip to Cumberland Island is a real “back to nature” experience – one you’ll never forget!

Cumberland has more than 17 miles of beaches.

Windswept dunes

History

Cumberland Island has a fascinating history. The first people to inhabit the island were native tribes, who settled there around 2,000 BC. Soon after, the Timucuans arrived, creating structured villages. They called the island “Missoe,” meaning “beautiful.” The largest of these villages was Tacatacura, which was located near the southern tip of the isle.

In 1562, French explorers landed on Missoe and became friends with the Timucuans. Four years later, eighty Spanish explorers came ashore and built crude fortresses. They named the island “San Pedro.” When Spanish missionaries followed their countrymen to San Pedro in order to convert the indigenous people to Christianity, the Timucuans viewed this move as an affront to their French allies and promptly murdered the Jesuits. In view of this act, along with the harsh living conditions, all the Spaniards left the island in 1573.

In 1578, another group of Spanish missionaries arrived – the Franciscans. The Timucuans accepted this group, and in 1587, a successful mission named San Pedro de Mocama was established. By 1595, another Spanish mission had been built.

In 1597, there was a revolt by the Guale tribe on the mainland near Cumberland. When the missions were threatened by the Guales, the Timucuans successfully defended them. Both missions, however, were soon abandoned by the Spanish. They returned in 1603 and built the San Pedro de Mocama Church.

In 1683, French pirates landed, burning most of the villages. The missionaries and most of the Timucuans fled the island in fear. The few that remained were subjected to more horrors when the Spanish pirate, Thomas Jingle, arrived in 1684. The Timucuans abandoned the island completely, and the Yemassi took their place.

General James Oglethorpe landed on the Georgia coast in 1733 and found Cumberland on one of his local explorations. One of his companions, a young Creek named Toonahowi, named the island “Cumberland” after William Augustus, the Duke of Cumberland. Toonahowi had befriended the thirteen-year-old duke on his visit to England. In 1736, the English built Fort St. Andrews on the island, and Oglethorpe erected a hunting lodge that he named “Dungeness.” In 1740, the English established another fort on Cumberland – Fort Prince William. These forts were built to protect the English settlements from the Spanish in nearby Florida.

English fortifications were also constructed on a nearby island, St. Simons. In 1742, the Spanish invaded the area in an effort to regain control of the coastal lands, but the Spaniards were defeated in the Battle of Bloody Marsh. Before they were thwarted, however, the invading forces destroyed Fort St. Andrews.

In 1748, Cumberland Island became neutral territory – controlled by neither England nor Spain. This lack of protection opened the door for scores of criminals and social misfits, and the island became a refuge for outlaws.

In 1763, royal land grants divided much of the land on Cumberland, but few people were willing to gamble moving to the island. In fact, when naturalist William Bartram landed on Cumberland in 1774, he found it all but abandoned.

In 1783, Nathaniel Greene scouted Cumberland for live oaks to be used in ship building. He found an abundant supply of suitable trees, so he purchased land on the island. Trees from Cumberland were used in the construction of the USS Constitution, fondly known as “Old Ironsides.”

After Greene’s death, his widow, Catherine, married Phineas Miller, and in 1796, they built a four-story mansion and named it “Dungeness,” in honor of Oglethorpe’s original lodge. The structure was built of tabby – a mixture of crushed oyster shells, lime, and sand. The walls were six-feet thick, and the mansion included sixteen fireplaces and was surrounded by acres of gardens. The Millers became the first planters on the island, growing cotton and harvesting the stately oaks.

When the War of 1812 broke out, the British occupied Cumberland and used Dungeness as their military headquarters. Two years later, Catherine Greene Miller died, leaving her land on Cumberland to her daughter, Louisa Shaw. The Shaws continued to grow cotton, but they also began growing oranges and olives in the fertile soil. Other plantations soon sprang up and were worked by African slaves.

In 1862, during the U.S. Civil War, Union troops occupied Cumberland Island. At the close of the war, Dungeness was burned. Once the war had ended, most of the plantation owners were allowed to return to their former lands, and the fields were now tended by freed blacks.

In 1871, the Miller land fell into the hands of Edmund Molyneux, who sold it to General William George Mackay Davis the next year. In 1881, Davis sold the land to Thomas Carnegie, the brother of Andrew Carnegie. Thomas and his wife rebuilt Dungeness in 1885. When he died a year later, his land was left to his wife, Lucy Coleman Carnegie.

By this time, a good number of blacks lived on Cumberland, descendants of slaves, and in 1893, the First African Baptist Church was constructed. On weekdays, the church doubled as a school. The church was rebuilt in the 1930s and served as the site for the wedding of John F. Kennedy, Jr. and Carolyn Bessette in September of 1996.

In 1898, a mansion was built for Lucy Carnegie’s son, George Lauder Carnegie. The edifice was named “Plum Orchard.” In 1900, another mansion, Greyfield House, was begun for Lucy Carnegie’s daughter, Margaret. By 1928, the Carnegie family owned almost the entirety of Cumberland Island.

By 1955, Cumberland Island had received much attention from historians. The U.S. Government took note and declared the island second only to Cape Cod as the most historically significant location along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.

In 1959, the newest Dungeness mansion was set afire, probably by a poacher who was wounded by an overseer while the hunter was shooting deer. The ruins can still be viewed today.

In 1972, the island was proclaimed a National Seashore, and much of the land was purchased by the federal government.

Ruins of Dungeness.

Plum Orchard

Birds and Wildlife

Cumberland Island is rich in wildlife, and a wide variety of birds can be seen in the trees and wading along the shore. More than 350 avian species have been recorded here. Since the island is on the transatlantic migratory flyway, many birds stop at Cumberland for a rest. Rare and endangered species, including Wilson’s plover, the American Oystercatcher, and the least tern, are often spotted. Other interesting species that might be seen are wood storks, peregrine falcons, osprey, ibises, golden eagles, and bald eagles.

While strolling along one of the oak-canopied sandy trails on Cumberland, there’s no telling what kind of “critter” you might catch a glimpse of. It could be a stealthy bobcat, an opossum, an armadillo, a feral pig, an elusive wild turkey, or a whitetail deer with a pair of wide-eyed fawns.

More than 350 bird species have been recorded on Cumberland Island.

Deer are numerous on the island.

Cumberland birds and wildlife:

Feral Horses

One of the most popular attractions on the island is its herd of feral horses. Historians disagree on how and when the equine group came to the island, but it’s believed that they’re descendants of Spanish mounts brought to Cumberland in the sixteenth century. Other barrier islands scattered along the U.S. Atlantic coast are home to feral horses, including Chincoteague and Assateague Islands, along with North Carolina’s Outer Banks. The horses on Cumberland, however, are different. Instead of pony-like equines with short legs and wooly coats, the Cumberland Island horses are tall and leggy, and in the warmer months, they display slick coats.

Today, there are around 150 feral horses on Cumberland. They can be seen just about anywhere on the island, from galloping along the beach to nibbling on grass around historic ruins. They seem to embody the wild, free spirit that is Cumberland Island.

Feral horses roam the island.

Marine Life

The waters surrounding Cumberland are rich and fertile. Loggerhead sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs beginning in mid-spring and continuing until early fall. Even though each female might lay as many as 100 eggs, few of the hatchlings survive until adulthood. Nests on Cumberland are documented and protected to ensure future generations of loggerheads.

Manatees can occasionally be seen along the coast, but dolphins are a frequent sight. These playful marine mammals can often be seen frolicking in the waves, and some come very close to shore, allowing visitors to the island a close encounter.

Cumberland waters are also home to numerous sharks. In fact, the largest population of sharks on the U.S. Atlantic coast can be found here, including some real giants. Just off the northern tip of the island is a deep depression known as the “Eighty Foot Hole,” where some of the largest sharks in the entire Atlantic frequent. Fortunately, only one human attack has been recorded. The incident occurred in less than two feet of water, when a woman was bitten on the hand.

Sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs.

Dolphins are a common sight.

Large sharks prowl the waters around Cumberland.

Fishing

Angling is one of the favorite pastimes for visitors to the island. Fishing from shore or wading into the surf can produce catches of flounder, redfish, puppy drum, spotted seatrout, whiting, croaker, sheepshead, tripletail, ladyfish, sharks, and the occasional tarpon. One of the best places to fish for saltwater species is along the rock jetty at the southern end of the island. Because of the mild climate, fishing is productive year round on Cumberland.

In addition to saltwater fishing, there are several freshwater ponds in the island’s interior. The largest, 83-acre Lake Whitney, offers great angling for bass and bream. If you choose to fish in one of the freshwater ponds, be careful – they’re home to alligators and cottonmouth moccasins.

Cumberland Island provides great fishing.

Tarpon landed just off Cumberland beach:

Camping

Campers are welcome on the island for up to seven days at the time. Cumberland offers both developed campgrounds and primitive camping.

Sea Camp and Stafford Campground both have restrooms, fire pits, and cold-water showers. Sea Camp also offers picnic tables, a boardwalk to the beach, grills, and an amphitheater where educational programs are presented by park rangers. Camping fees for Sea Camp and Stafford Campground are $4.00 per night, per person.

Primitive camping can be done at three backcountry locations. These sites provide no facilities, and fires are not permitted. The nightly fee for primitive camping is $2.00 per person.

Camping is popular on the island.

Greyfield Inn

If roughing it isn’t your idea of a great vacation, make reservations at Greyfield Inn on Cumberland. Built in 1900, this former Carnegie home was converted to a hotel in 1962 and is still operated by the Carnegie descendants.

Greyfield is the epitome of Southern elegance, filled with antiques and original works of art. The bedrooms are beautifully appointed, and some include clawfoot tubs and sweeping views of the marsh. The wide front porch is equipped with swings and rocking chairs, providing guests with a relaxing place to soak up the sights and the atmosphere.

Meals are included with your stay at Greyfield Inn, and they are legendary, in true Southern fashion. They include hearty breakfasts, picnic lunches, and candlelit dinners. Every afternoon, hors d’oeuvres and cocktails are served in the oceanfront bar, and the inn boasts an impressive wine cellar.

Greyfield Inn

Inside the inn

Getting There

Private boats are allowed to dock at Cumberland Island for a small fee, but most visitors choose to take the ferry. To catch the Cumberland Island Ferry, you’ll need to travel to St. Marys, Georgia – just eight miles east of Interstate 95, via GA exit 1 or 3. The ferry runs daily March-November, and in the winter months, it runs five days a week. The ride over the sound takes just 45 minutes, and it’s almost as enjoyable as visiting the island itself.

Many kayakers make the trip to Cumberland, too, and kayaking is a great way to explore the marshes and estuaries. If you decide to kayak or canoe to Cumberland, check the weather first. The sound is usually calm, but it can get rough in inclement weather.

Learn more about Cumberland Island:

A Day at Cumberland IslandCumberland Island National Seashore - Operating Hours & Seasons (U.S. National Park Service) Operating Hours & Seasons Even though my family has lived in Georgia for many years, we had never been to...

Comments

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Clarice Lott

7 months ago

Husband, son and grandson have visited Cumberland a few times. Grandpa-grandson, dad and son hunts. They loved it.

SO much history, beauty, and pristine.

Thanks

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks for reading!

Abdinasir Aden

8 years agofrom Minneapolis, MN

This is beautiful hub with beautiful pictures and video. I really enjoyed. I am proud to be your followers. Please visit my hub. Thanks for sharing.

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, Sameerk!

Eth, great to see ya, girlfriend!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks a bunch, Susan! I'll do the same.

Ethel Smith

8 years agofrom Kingston-Upon-Hull

looks a beautiful peaceful place

sameerk

8 years agofrom India

awesome hub

Susan Sisk

8 years agofrom Georgia, USA

Great hub. I recently wrote about my trip to Cumberland Island. I didn't include history since you had it covered so well. I added a link to your hub. Hope that is OK.

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Coolmon, glad you enjjoyed the "trip" to Cumberland Island!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Top, thanks for reading!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Pam, thanks for stopping by!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Kaie, Cumberland Island is an awesome place to visit!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

KK - such a sweet thing to say!

Coolmon2009

8 years agofrom Texas, USA

I enjoyed reading your article on Cumberland Island. Thanks for the information on this destination.

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Teresa, glad you enjoyed it!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Ictodd, thanks for reading!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Chris, you should check it out!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Judi, I haven't been to Sapelo in decades! I need to return.

TopUniverse

8 years ago

The island looks solid to enjoy. By the way you got some cool pictures.

Pamela Oglesby

8 years agofrom Sunny Florida

Habee, What a gorgeous place and you did a beautiful job sharing that beauty with all of us. Thanks.

Kaie Arwen

8 years ago

Habee ~ Fabulous history, beautiful scenery, and best of all............ shoreline! Looks like a great place to relax............ thank you ~ Kaie

Susan Hazelton

8 years agofrom Sunny Florida

Habee, you truly have a way with words. And I love your beautiful pictures, they have a way of making you feel as though you are there. Thanks so much for sharing.

eventsyoudesign

8 years agofrom Nashville, Tennessee

Wow! Beautiful pictures. I was enthralled by them. I wish I could visit Cumberland Island today. Great article. Teresa

lctodd1947

8 years agofrom USA

Another great hub and wonderful information about Cumberland Island. It seems to be a perfect place to get away from it all. Thank you for sharing.

carolina muscle

8 years agofrom Charlotte, North Carolina

No.. I haven't been there yet, but I feel like I have after reading this post!! Great job, Habee!!

Judicastro

8 years agofrom birmingham, Alabama

Habee- great hub girl!! While living on st simons Chris and I kept saying that we were going to take that boat trip one of these days and go to Cumberland island. Alas we have moved back to Alabama and with my daughter moving away from Jax, it doesn't look like we'll make it any time soon. I did however take the ferry to sapelo island, right off the coast from Darien, ga. Very interesting island too. Have you been there?

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

scla, thanks so much for reading!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Nifty, GA is fortunate to have this pristine island!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Anglnwu, you should visit!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Deb, Cumberland Island is like another world!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

50, great to see you!!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

mtsi, I like your new word!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, Sheila. How ya been?

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, Simone!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Mquee, you guys will love it!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

De Greek, that would be GA - famous for its peanuts! lol

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Mick, I didn't know you were such a great dancer!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Brian, the wild horses are my fave!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, MPG!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

HH, always great to see you!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, Chris! Have you been to Cumberland Island?

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Images, I enjoy "chair travel," also! lol

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

2be, you'd love Cumberland Island!

AUTHOR

Holle Abee

8 years agofrom Georgia

Thanks, Prasetio!

scla

8 years agofrom Southern California

Wonderful information about an area that is probably not well known by most people. I am always interested in learning about new areas and the history behind it. It is definitely beautiful and the history creates a certain mystique and wonder about it.

nifty@50

8 years ago

Thanks for the awesome hub Habee, here's a great travel destination in my own back yard!

anglnwu

8 years ago

Beautiful pictures and great historical facts. Cumberland island seems quite a place to visit for sure. Awesome!

DeBorrah K Ogans

8 years ago

Habee, Nice Hub! Interesting history on Cumberland Island! This really seems like a wonderful quaint place to retreat and get away from it all... Thank you for sharing, Peace & Blessings!

50 Caliber

8 years agofrom Arizona

Holle what a great place to visit. I like the bands of wild horses that are left out here, I'd like to see them in an island setting as well, 50

mtsi1098

8 years ago

A fascinating adventure and Missoe-ly done (this probably is not a word so don't try spell checking it). Sounds like a great camp outing and I will stay out of the water :) ...thanks

bayoulady

8 years agofrom Northern Louisiana,USA

habee, They should hire you at their tourism bureau to write press, brochures, and etc. for them! Your reports of beaches, attractions, accomodations, the horses, and videos(especially your trip) were invaluable. Anyone that finds this article will have all their questions answered! RATE UP! AWESOME!

sheila b.

8 years ago

It does sound like a magic island.

Simone Haruko Smith

8 years agofrom San Francisco

Great entry! (It definitely came through, by the way). Cumberland sure has a fascinating history, and I would love to see the wildlife you describe. It would be great fun to kayak over to the island and either camp or stay at Greyfield Inn - siiiigh! Thanks for sharing this wonderful place with us!

mquee

8 years agofrom Columbia, SC

Hi Habee, I don't think there are many things in life that are more enjoyable than traveling whether here at home or to a foreign country.

This sounds like a perfect place to camp out and fish, both of which my wife and I enjoy. You gave some great descriptions and photos here. We will put this down as a future vacation spot. Thanks for sharing.

De Greek

8 years agofrom UK

How about a hub on where to retire for peanuts? :-))

Micky Dee

8 years ago

Incredibly thorough habee! I loved the videos. The young lady in the first was delightful! This is super! I danced on your buttons!

Brian Stephens

8 years agofrom Castelnaudary, France

What a fabulous place and very well illustrated. Love the idea of horses running free as well, must be an amazing sight.

Marie Giunta

8 years agofrom Sydney, Australia

What a beautiful place, I love the wildlife photos. Thanks habee.

Hello, hello,

8 years agofrom London, UK

You lucky girl having see such a beautiful place. Thank you for describing it so well and showing us around.

carolina muscle

8 years agofrom Charlotte, North Carolina

Beautiful post!

images99

8 years ago

Hi habee-I love to travel and write about travel so whenever I find a chance I travel else I travel the way I am doing right now, through articles, thanks for sharing.

Pamela Lipscomb

8 years agofrom Charlotte, North Carolina

Thanks for sharing this simply beautiful spot with us. I am always looking for new places to visit.

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