For bushings I usually prefer the rubber ones.....but with the power and tires you are going to be running I'd probably seriously consider urethane. Just make sure you get ones that can greased.

On spring rates it's probably going to be best to talk to the manufacture or you could go air bags.

One of the things to consider for the springs will be fuel tank location and size. A 20 gallon fuel tank hung under the bed behind the rear axle will probably require a bit stiffer spring than a 15 gallon tank mounted in the front of the bed.

Shopping for a 4 link kit, which is better parallel with pan hard bar or triangulated ? Rubber or urathane bushings? How do you figure out which coil over to use?

Good article Mike P. I went with a triangulated 4 link on my 33. Carrera coil overs. It does help with the room issue. Polly bushings for sure. A ton of adjustability is available.

Crizila, what brand did you use?

Actually came as part of the frame / suspension package with the 33 body. Left me a nice big opening behind the axle housing ( inside the frame rails ) for a fuel tank. Lots to choose from with Carrera coil-overs.

Shopping for a 4 link kit, which is better parallel with pan hard bar or triangulated ? Rubber or urathane bushings? How do you figure out which coil over to use?

Good article Mike P. I went with a triangulated 4 link on my 33. Carrera coil overs. It does help with the room issue. Polly bushings for sure. A ton of adjustability is available.

Crizila, what brand did you use?

Actually came as part of the frame / suspension package with the 33 body. Left me a nice big opening behind the axle housing ( inside the frame rails ) for a fuel tank. Lots to choose from with Carrera coil-overs.

I hope you can adjust the Instant Center on those rods. The same geometry was used on the GM A-bodies like Chevelles. Those cars had the instant center too far towards the front. The rears would hop under hard acceleration. The cure was to relocate the upper bar attachment to the axle, higher. This shortened up the instant center and voila! no more hops.

I hope you can adjust the Instant Center on those rods. The same geometry was used on the GM A-bodies like Chevelles. Those cars had the instant center too far towards the front. The rears would hop under hard acceleration. The cure was to relocate the upper bar attachment to the axle, higher. This shortened up the instant center and voila! no more hops.

R.

Yep, I hear you on that. To be honest, I have yet to stomp on it from a dead stop, but it might hop a bunch. As you can see from the pic, room constraints are an issue. Think I would have to go to a conventional 4 link and pan hard rod to fix it.

I hope you can adjust the Instant Center on those rods. The same geometry was used on the GM A-bodies like Chevelles. Those cars had the instant center too far towards the front. The rears would hop under hard acceleration. The cure was to relocate the upper bar attachment to the axle, higher. This shortened up the instant center and voila! no more hops.

R.

Remember, this is a street rod, not a drag car. There is a difference in application between a 4 bar and a 4 link rear suspension. Mine is a triangulated 4 bar - best suited for street rods / "g" machines. 4 links are best suited for drag /race cars ( much more instant center adjust ability for track conditions).

AZ_A12_BEE
I Live Here
Registered: 08/19/03
Posts: 18522
Loc: Dreaming of the 808

Originally Posted By Crizila

Originally Posted By dogdays

I hope you can adjust the Instant Center on those rods. The same geometry was used on the GM A-bodies like Chevelles. Those cars had the instant center too far towards the front. The rears would hop under hard acceleration. The cure was to relocate the upper bar attachment to the axle, higher. This shortened up the instant center and voila! no more hops.

R.

Remember, this is a street rod, not a drag car. There is a difference in application between a 4 bar and a 4 link rear suspension. Mine is a triangulated 4 bar - best suited for street rods / "g" machines. 4 links are best suited for drag /race cars ( much more instant center adjust ability for track conditions).

I hope you can adjust the Instant Center on those rods. The same geometry was used on the GM A-bodies like Chevelles. Those cars had the instant center too far towards the front. The rears would hop under hard acceleration. The cure was to relocate the upper bar attachment to the axle, higher. This shortened up the instant center and voila! no more hops.

R.

Remember, this is a street rod, not a drag car. There is a difference in application between a 4 bar and a 4 link rear suspension. Mine is a triangulated 4 bar - best suited for street rods / "g" machines. 4 links are best suited for drag /race cars ( much more instant center adjust ability for track conditions).

Mine will be street so you suggest a 4 bar over a 4 link?

Yes, especially if you have any kind of room constraint issues, which street rods often have.