Kai Kühne

The much-publicized breakup of As Four has launched a flurry of rumors and speculation about who was the driving force and talent behind the intriguing line. A large downtown crowd gathered for the debut of Myself, by As Four defector Kai Kühne, searching for answers (and scoop) in the 37-piece collection.

Anyone familiar with the theatrical designer's personal style could recognize his own wardrobe favorites throughout, particularly in the equestrian and menswear-inspired pieces. Nostalgic references to Kühne's previous job were fewa pair of bubble shorts, some diaper drapes, jodhpursand mostly fell flat. The strongest pieces in this first outing were the shirtdresses and coats. A silk tuxedo shirtdress worn by Bianca Klamt was elegant enough for a latter-day Holly Golightly. Another version in tucked white cotton was experimental but still wearable. Each trenchcoat in the collection, and there were a few, had distinct details; one with oversize buttoned belt loops merits particular mention. A white coat with cocoon sleeves was a stunner.

For the most part, Kühne's looser garments out-matched his tailoring. Some sporty skirts and a pair of evergreen textured silk shorts were among the more viable takes on jaunty separates, but an off-the-shoulder sea-print silk blouse was a more singular statement. Three Empire-waist gowns, one with a feathered bodice and muslin body, closed the show on a high note. If the collection, overall, was a mix of hits and misses, it was a personal one, in more than name alone. With it, he proved that one doesn't have to be the loneliest number after all.