Popular Miniature Climbing Rose Companion Plants

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Pruning
Red Cascade is an old-fashioned running/climbing rose that never needs pruning when provided sufficient room to grow. It can be useful as groundcover or trained to climb chain link or other types of fences. If the plant grows out of bounds, you can prune it as much as is necessary.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Planting
Plant Red Cascade Rose in a location that provides well-drained soil and full, all-day sun to light shade. Morning sun is a must on roses to dry the morning dew from foliage. This is a hardy, fast growing groundcover/climbing rose that is useful as a groundcover on slopes or embankments, to climb low fences, a climber on a trellis or pole, or as a wide border in landscape beds.

To plant, dig a hole no deeper than the root ball and two to three times the width of the root ball and fill it with water. If the hole drains within a few hours, you have good drainage. If the water is still standing 12 hours later, improve the drainage in your bed, perhaps by establishing a raised bed. Turn and break up the soil removed from the planting hole. If the native soil is dense, compacted or heavy clay mix in a good organic compost or soil amendment at a 50/50 ratio with the soil removed from the hole. Remove your plant from its container and carefully but firmly loosen the root ball. Set the plant into the hole you've prepared, making sure the top of the root ball is slightly above the soil level. Pull your backfill soil mixture around the root ball in the hole, tamping as you go to remove air pockets. Then water thoroughly and cover with a one to two-inch layer of mulch.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Feeding
I fertilize the Red Cascade Rose with a mild, natural plant food in early spring when the new growth begins to emerge and then about every 4 to 6 weeks throughout the season. I stop fertilizing them about two months before the first frost date. Frequent fertilization promotes increased blooming and deeper green foliage.