Interesting. I have been told the $750 private cash offer cannot be combined with $1000 conquest cash. It does state on the brochure that it can be used "in addition to any current public offers." $3750 in rebates would be GREAT!

I think you are quoted too much. I just got mine in January. Below are the details:

2013 XLT 4WD 3.5L V6 TIVCT Has the 202A package with rear view, myford touch, voice activated sync, comfort package + Leather, Heated seats, Power lift gate, Voice activated Navigation and some extras. Total sticker price before rebates and discounts is $39,700. After applying all discounts the price they are using is about 34,000. (Included in the discounts is a $1000 discount for Lease conquest...since I was getting out of a competitor lease).

Deal is $395/Month 15K miles per year, 36 months. Zero down. Total out of pocket is for taxes, DMV, registration and plates = $1950.Also included was free car service (oil changes etc) for the full term of the lease.I got this deal at Levittown, Ford

Just began to shop for a Ford Explorer Sport. Based on Nighthawkn117's number I expected a better price than I received. On a 36 month lease with 15k per year with a MRSP of $48,775 No money down except fees and taxes they originally quoted $575 per month. My salesman was new, so even to get this price took them forever. It was based on a discounted price of a little over 46K. I knew this was not reasonable. After another 45 minutes they came back with $560. Since this lease is on a MSRP 3k lower than Nighhawkn's his price of $579 sounds good compared to my $560 which seems like it stinks. Am I missing something? Any thoughts on his numbers or mine?

Did you read the thread on how to get a good lease deal? What's the residual, what did they do to go from $575 to $560? What's the money factor? What are the fees?

Do you have multiple Ford dealers within a 1-2hours drive? Sit at home on the computer and negotiate with multiple dealers simultaneously over the internet. Don't visit a dealer until they give you every last detail. You have all the negotiation power at home. At the dealer they wear you out with the waiting game.

Hey Paperboy, I have 5 months on my current Audi lease. I went into the dealer to see if they would get me out of my current lease without it costing me anything so I admit I was not prepared. I thought the most important factor on a lease was the purchase price, with residual & MF coming from Ford. After 3 hours and barely any negotiating this time was spent mostly with the saleman and manager by themselves figuring all this out that when I left I didn'teven know what the sales price was that they were using to come up with the $560 let alone residual & MF. I really just wanted to get out of there realizing I needed to do more homework. Good news is I live on Long Island where there's plenty of dealers. I agree with you, I will start with trying to get prices from dealers on the internet. I was checking here to see if anyone recently priced a 36month 15k mile lease on a sport around a 48k MSRP to see what I should expect.

Thank you all for you help. I picked up the vehicle two days ago with the numbers I posted above.

One trick I found is that if you're a Costco member, use their Auto option for recommending dealers. What they do is they have dealers compete against each other and place the lowest bids for how far a dealer is willing to get to invoice or below invoice. Then a dealer is awarded the yearly "contract". The dealer that was recommended was quoting me $200 under invoice. So it does work and takes away the negotiation aspect of it. Especially with the Explorer Sport which is high in demand.

If you don't have a current non ford lease in your household, you can use a tip that I received on this forum. Which is go to Ford.com and request the brochure for the vehicle you're interested in. Many times it will include a discount that cannot be combined with a Lease Conquest, but can be used in its place. I received mine and it had $750 discount in it.

I would recommend you make your own excel sheet or use the Edmunds lease calculator and compare their numbers with what you think is right. Run a few scenarios at home or do it on your mobile phone. I would start with as close to invoice as possible.

P.S. I did NOT end up going with the Costco Recommended Dealer because the service and salesman were terrible. So I paid $300 more for a better experience. But their numbers were great and they didn't mess around with that portion.

If someone is in the southeast Michigan area, and is interested in a great Ford dealer and a fantastic salesman that was upfront and great to work with, please send me a note and I'll send you all their info. This is my 12th car purchase, and by far the best experience.

Question for the forum. I am looking to lease or buy a new Explorer in the next couple of weeks in Northern NJ. I've bought or leased 8-10 cars between my wife and I over the years and have the knowledge that many here do about the process. So I went to the Ford website and put in my contact info for dealers to reach me. I heard from 3 via auto email responses and two salesmen called me. Te third sent an email but never called. I told them I am highly interested in the car and asked for lease numbers. One guy gave me a monthly payment only and aced like he never heard of a money factor, residual and sales price when I asked what they were. He said he had to get those from his sales manager and that he would call me back. He never did, three days ago now.

I spoke to a second dealer today and told him that I was hoping to get the car in the next week, and that I wanted to to do all the negotiations over the phone. He said he would get lease numbers and all me back. He never did either.

I do not understand why these guys are not willing to give me a quote over phone. Is there some policy for Ford where you have to go in to the dealer to get a price? I've leased or bought from Acura, BMW, Infiniti, Audi, and Buick and have never had so much trouble getting simple information. Am I missing something or just dealing with bad salesmen?

I've been having the same problem with Chevy dealers. I've dealt with Honda dealerships for the past 10 to 15 years and never had this much trouble. I think they don't like dealing with people that know what they're doing.

I'm having the same issue with Ford dealers. Internet "sales" repeatedly requesting me to come into dealership and then it'll go more than a few days without any communication.

I may still pursue the Explorer but there is ONE little thing that really bothers me about this SUV. Unless you get the Limited, you will NOT get the universal remote (homelinlk transmitter) at ANY cost. Silly I know, but this is standard equipment on most cars, trucks, SUVs costing thousands less.

I would think your close, but should be able to do a little better. I leased this same car on a 15,000 miles a year, 24 mo. lease at the same price, sales tax included, same amount down.A 36 mo. Should be better than 24 and 12,000 miles less than 15,000. That said, I would think you should be able to get this down to about $425. To $430.Sales tax included. Good luck! Try getting another bid to compare and see if they will beat this one.

What dealers are you looking at? I am in Columbus looking for a deal as well and have yet to find any dealer of value. Most of them treat me like I don't know anything. One dealer told me that invoice of a 45k Limited was 44k. I had to leave after she kept telling me I was wrong and I showed her what true invoice was using my edmunds app. Too much info out there to be shady... You think these guys would have learned that by now.

Good question rp07. This isn't an official policy of any automaker, just old school sales tactics. Conventional wisdom in the industry is (and there may be some truth to this) that if you provide someone with a quote over the phone they'll never buy from you...you'll just shop that quote all over town until you beat it and they'll never see you again. Dealers really try to suck consumers into actually physically going to the dealership where they can use their Jedi Mind Tricks to get you to sign paperwork and actually commit to buying a vehicle on the spot. Physically going from dealer to dealer isn't very efficient, particularly in today's age of technology, but it is often the best way to prove that you are a serious buyer and to get the best possible deal.

Hi Car man, I am trying to lease an explorer sport with an msrp of 43,500. I am returning a mercury mountaineer premier loaded and have a 6 month early termination from ford. There is also 2000 in incentives. I am at 370 on my old car and trying to break under 400 for the sport. iam looking to add 20 to payment and put 2500 down which includes taxes and tags. the lease is for 36 mo;s with 13500 milage Am I in the ball park I understand turbo has better residual. Also can you tell me what type of milage feedback you have heard on turbo. My mountaineer was apig getting 11.5average. Thanks in advance lease would be ny or nj