2005 Johannishof, Rheingau, Riesling Kabinett, Johannisberg (G) ($16 Kappyâ€™s). Alcohol level: 10%. We picked this up in â€™06 on the way back from the Boston Flower Show.

It gives you a blast of citrus and under ripe pears on the nose and upfront. There is more fruit including grapefruit and guavas along with a distinct minerality and crisp acidity in middle, and the finish lingers on and on. We havenâ€™t had a wine like this since we lived in Germany in the sixties.

We matched it with mussels steamed in white wine, fish stock, garlic/shallots, and herbs; crusty bread, and salad with orange vinaigrette. Wonderful!