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jmartpr wrote:At least with my Storck PowerArms (Same as M3) there's never any rub of the chain with the FD.Guess FD positioning coudl also influence this but as noted if it's well setup the FD adjust itself to eliminate any chain rub.

Setup:1. Chainline when measured from centre of the frame to in between chainrings: ~43.5mm (As per Campy Spec)2. Front derailleur position is maxed out to the left under zero reset for the cage to get the Campy specified 0.5mm clearance between Chain and Inner cage surface when chain is on the small front chainring. (possibly due to different Q factor of Clavicula Cranks)3. Front Derailleur has been mounted and aligned using the Campagnolo FD alignment tool.4. Chainring bolts (Original THM) torqued down to 6Nm as specified by THM5. Front Derailleur hanger is bolted onto the frame with 7Nm of torque (as specified in the TIME manual)

My issue lies in that the shifting from 34->50 isn't fantastic. The quality of the upshifts varies depending on which rear cog I'm on. It seems to be 80% alright when I'm on the largest rear cog and gets much better when shift towards the centre of the cassette.

Problems start surfacing when I'm on the smaller cogs. The quality of upshifts would vary and pretty much skips and grinds for a bit before it completes a shift successfully. The chain seems to grind against the inner surface of the large Chainring, waiting to catch onto one of the ramping pins before it makes it's transition over. Easing off the power does help a fair bit but it still isn't smooth generally.

Shifting under pressure is pretty much out of the question as the chain would require at least 2 or 3 complete pedal revolutions before catching on to the big ring

I have tried installing the front derailleur stiffener that Campy sells as a separate item but due to the size of the bolts on my Front Derailleur mount, it just wouldn't fit.

Just a couple hours ago, my chain derailed outwards (towards the right) when I was sprinting on the 50/11 combo. This has never happened before and it seems that the chainring might be the one that's causing the issue.

I've also noticed a bit of metal shavings coming off some of the teeth on my Chainring.

The bike has only about 300km on it and the large chainring already looks pretty worn from all the grinding that's been happening during upshifts.

P.S. During the installation of my Campy Record chain, I overtightened the link pin by accident which resulted in a stiff link that required a huge amount of left right bending to loosen. I'm suspecting if that might have caused damage to the chain that's resulting in this poor upshift.

Also, since Campy specified dimensions are only applicable for Campagnolo components, should I move my Clavicula Cranks outboard (towards the right) by 0.5 of an mm ? As it is now, to get the basic amount of clearance between Chain and FD cage inner plate, I would have to max out the FD adjustment travel.

I have used SR EPS w/Zipp Vumaquads w/both compact as well as standard rings w/no issues. Chain pickup is not quite as seamless as w/Campy rings w/more than 4 pickup pins but still comparable.

audiophilitis wrote:I know that the Campy EPS can be finicky when using non-Campy drive train components, i.e., cranks. Does anyone currently have this setup (SR EPS w/ Clavicula cranks/Praxis rings)? If so, does it shift as well as a full Campy drive train?

Until very recently I was running SR EPS 2 with Claviculas and Praxis CR on a Storck. Just replaced the Claviculas with AX Morpheus, and had exactly the same hard time adjusting the shifts. OK, I am not a Campy guy so most likely (certainly?) don't know what I am doing. But after the initial setup, I have to go to the micro adjustment mode and painstakingly test all combinations, and readjust.

I am sure Campy experts can tell you a better way of setting it up. Once it is working, however, both front and rear real shift fine.

my THM SE says to put the 1.0 spacer on the DS and the .5mm spacer on the NDS. my THM M3 on the SR11 worked great...had a .5mm spacer on the inside DS. you may want to play with moving the different spacers on either side and see if it has the same issues.

kode54 wrote:my THM SE says to put the 1.0 spacer on the DS and the .5mm spacer on the NDS. my THM M3 on the SR11 worked great...had a .5mm spacer on the inside DS. you may want to play with moving the different spacers on either side and see if it has the same issues.