Rulo Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

Juice from two of Washington state’s top vineyards — Kiona (55%) on Red Mountain and The Benches in the Horse Heaven Hills — spent 22 months new Taransaud French oak barrels. That accounts for the aromas of smoky black cherry and blackberry with black pepper, green peppercorns and cedar. There’s more blackberry and cherry on the entry, followed by assertive bittersweet chocolate tannins backed by blueberry and red currant acidity. While there’s plenty of satisfaction now, those tannins should resolve into something really special. The Schlickers’ wines are primarily available from the winery, but the list of retailers for Rulo is available at the winery site.