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Remodelling Afghan identity through fashion

Amsterdam-based fashion designer Nawed Elias wants to reclaim Afghan identity from terrorists. With his innovative designs, he wants to give the global image of Afghanistan a radical makeover. By Waslat Hasrat-Nazimi

'Rise from the Ashes': in the Western world, traditional Afghan clothing is often associated with war – images of Islamist fighters donning turbans, drooping cloaks. But the attire is basically part of the rich Afghan culture. In his latest Amsterdam show, "Rise from the Ashes", Afghan-Dutch designer Nawed Elias attempted to alter the Western perception

Shedding light on history: Elias has showcased his designs in many countries around the world. His label "Zazai" pays tribute to his love for his home nation and his cultural roots

Sounds and images of a war: Elias (front) was born in Afghanistan in 1993. At the time, a deadly civil war had already begun in the country, with different groups of mujahideen vying for control over Kabul following the Soviet withdrawal from the country. Elias vividly remembers the sounds and images of that war and these memories shape his designs

Colours of Afghanistan: inspired by various regions of Afghanistan, Zazai's designs, colours and patterns are a blend of modernity and tradition. They carry a distinct signature style that is influenced by Western culture

Backstage: before his models walk the runway, Elias makes sure that all details are taken care of. Elias works meticulously with every model individually to prepare them for the show – to present his vision to his audience in the best possible manner

Chained to violence: Elias' fashion shows are more than just models doing a catwalk on the ramp. For instance, the choreography for his "Rise from the Ashes" show carefully depicts the history of Afghanistan, a country ravaged by war and bomb attacks. In this picture, he shows an image of Afghanistan that is chained to violence

Ray of hope: the Afghan-Dutch designer believes that youth are the future of Afghanistan. "I want to give youngsters an alternative view. Young Afghans shouldn't blindly follow their leaders," he adds. In this picture, a model is carrying a young child, through whom Elias wants to present a ray of hope

A political statement: Elias has been living abroad for a long period of time but he has strong political views about Afghanistan. He criticises Afghan politics, warlords and corruption through his work. "Of course I am political. And I'm not shy of expressing my political views through my work," he said

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