Oil light comes on and "bings" when the tack shows 1000 rpm.

Plenty of oil (though I did have to put a quart in a couple weeks ago). Now, when the car is warm -- driven more than 3 or 4 miles -- the oil light comes on and the alarm bings when the tack drops through 1000 rpm. When it goes above 1000 rpm, the light will go back out.

Two other connector or not connected issues:
1) When it's cold outside (Florida cold, 50 degrees or so) the car will click several times before starting. It always starts on the second try.

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Re: Oil light comes on and "bings" when the tack shows...

I have no idea how many miles are on the van but 1st lets talk about the oil lite, it is telling u that the engine has less than 10 PSI of oil pressure, this may be the pressure sending unit on the engine is defective, if it does have low oil pressure then severe damage to the engine bearings can result, the click is most likely the contacts in the starter solenoid are burnt, they act up more cold and give the click you hear. I have no idea about the steering issue, without hearing it is almost imposs to diagnose such concerns. In closing I highly recommned that you address the low oil pressure concern ASAP

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Nowdays 1 Qt. in 3000 miles, really isn't that bad, even some new vehicles claim that's normal. I know with my current vehicles, both at approx. 150,000-160,000 miles, they won't use any for first while after an oil change, but then after mileage starts adding up again, they start to use a little, approx.I Qt, every 1000 miles or so, until it's changed again. I've switched to the high mileage oil, just for piece of mind, as they say it revives seals, and has added protection for the higher mileage engines.This time around I'm thinking of adding "Lucas" & see how it works, as I've heard some pretty good reports on it, just to see if it will prolong that oil breakdown, at mid change.

I had Walmart give me an ambassador package oil change years ago on a grand am and the nimrods never tightened the filter and the same thing happened to me. Even though I put oil in the engine seized within 48 hrs. Good luck! Get your documents ready because whether or not your engine fails you will still want to sue the oil replacement service worker for subsequent damages due to negligence.

Ok not to keen on newer vehicles actually prefer the carburated ones, but oil pressure is supposed increase on your gauge when accelerating. If it wasn't going up before and just staying at 40 the needle might have been stuck. But idle should be 40 lbs and when you work the moter (reving or driving down the road) the guage should show an increase for every 1000 rpm above idle. Second if you can get a hand held scanner (bought mine off ebay for $30) check for any codes in your computer you will probably find that you either have a bank running wrong or some other sensor that needs to be changed. I'd go with getting my own scanner it saves alot of money and time, garages make their money here.