About Capitol Reef National Park:

Capitol Reef offers superb desert cracks in some of the coolest scenery of Southern Utah! It is open year-round, although the best seasons are Spring and Fall.
If you are looking for another Indian Creek or Wall Street, where climbs are lined up next to each other, do not come to Capitol Reef. The NPS no longer allows new bolts to be placed. The only exception to this rule is if existing anchors are dangerous. For this reason, there are not too many routes here, and those that do exist are spread very far apart from one another.
Still, if you are in the area for hiking, or just driving through on your way to some of the other better known climbing sights in Southern Utah, the cracks of Capitol Reef are well worth your time. The NPS does require the use of red chalk to preserve the visual integrity of the Wingate sandstone. For more information about restrictions and such, go to http://www.nps.gov/care/climbing.htm.
The areas adjacent to the park, such as Boulder Mountain or Holt Draw, immediately to the west, do offer exciting potential for first ascents. Anyone willing to endure Boulder Mountain's rough roads will find some excellent basalt.

Nearest town or city:

Torrey

Directions:

If you drew a line on a map between Moab and Zion, Capitol Reef would be in the middle. It is very isolated- the nearby towns of Torrey, Bicknell, and Loa have basic groceries, but for anything else (such as climbing gear), a trip to Salt Lake City or Moab is required.
Nearly all of the climbs are located along the park's scenic drive. An entrance fee of a couple $$$ is required.
Approach to the more remote areas such as Capitol Roof, Basketball Wall, and Fracture Zone may take more than a half hour.