The goaltender glove is the most versatile piece of equipment. Not only is it used to make amazing saves, it is also used to cover up loose pucks and handle the stick. Having a good glove is therefore extremely important to ensure good goaltending performance. This buyer's guide will help you assess which glove is best for you!

In the early hockey years, goaltenders wore the same gloves as players used. They offered little protection and did not cover much surface area. The goaltender glove as we know it today has its origins in the 1940s when goaltenders started using baseball gloves to more easily stop the puck. Goaltenders then started experimenting with various glove sizes and designs to improve their ability to stop the puck and increase protection. This led to the style of glove that is used today.

Glove terminology

Basket or Pocket: The portion of the glove used to trap the puck. It consists of a layer of rigid material (usually plastic covered with leather) forming a T and joined to the glove using webbing to form a flexible pocket. The shape of the pocket varies from glove to glove with some manufacturers using multiple rigid sections in the pocket.

Palm: The palm of the glove is the main portion of the glove which covers the palm of the hand. It is composed of a rigid plastic covered with leather as well as padding to cusion shots. The palm also features a break to allow the glove to close.

Cuff: The cuff is a rigid portion of the glove used to protect the wrist. It is composed of a rigid plastic covered in leather with very thick padding.

Back: The back of the glove is the portion that wraps behind the hand. It has very little padding as it is normally not used to stop pucks unless the goaltender is out of position. It does offer some protection from skates or slashes.

Sizing and fit

Unlike goaltender pads, there is no real sizing choice when buying a goalie glove. The size of the glove is determined by the age (size) of the goaltender. Manufacturers usually have sizes based on age -> Youth (5-8), Junior (9-12) , Intermediate (13-16) and Senior (17+) gloves. It is therefore relatively easy to determine which glove is the right one for you. The age ranges for each size of glove are only an indication and will vary depending on the size of each goaltender.

When you put the glove on, it should be large enough so it does not feel too tight. Your fingers should not touch the end of the channels and you should be able to easily tie the wrist strap around your wrist. Ensure this strap is tight enough so the glove will not come off but not as tight as to cut circulation.

You should also ensure the straps for your pinky finger and thumb are in the correct position (not too far so your fingers cannot fit in them) and you are able to tighten them. These straps will help you open and close the glove and ensure it stays in the proper position relative to your hand. Finally, some gloves have an adjustment to tighten the padding around the back of your hand. This should be tight to allow the glove to better follow your hand movements. In the particular glove I use, there are two adjustment straps for the hand.

Pro vs mid-range

Manufacturers of goaltender equipment usually have a pro-spec glove (same model used by NHL goaltenders) and a less expensive Mid-range senior glove. This glove is meant to be adequate for most goaltenders that do not play at a high or professional level and don't require (and generally can't make use of) that extra bit of performance. I have used both types of gloves playing hockey and I would have to say that most probably won't notice any difference between the two gloves. However if you are playing at high caliber divisions or at a professional level, the mid-range glove just does not cut it. Having compared the goal pads previously, I can also say the mid-range glove does not perform as well when the level of hockey is increased. Keep in mind these are my experiences with the gloves I own and have used. Some of the differences could be attributed to glove design rather than the difference between a pro and mid-range glove. However as they are both from the same manufacturer, the design should be similar.

Mid-Range glove

Pro Glove

The main difference between the two gloves is the amount of padding and the quality of the materials. The general construction remains about the same with both gloves having a great fit, similar strapping systems and overall design. I have found that the mid-range glove lacks padding in the break on the palm. In fact, at the break itself and approx 1cm to each side (see picture), there is no padding other than the leather. If shots hit near the break, it can be quite uncomfortable and even painful. The pro glove, has an added strip of plastic and padding that covers the break while keeping flexibility and allows the glove to absorb more of the impact of the puck.

The "T" of the glove pocket is also better on the pro glove. It has a plastic piece integrated to add some rigidity and allow the pocket to stay opened at all times. The mid-range glove "T" is only composed of leather and does not keep its shape as well. Furthermore, the attachment between the base of the "T" and the palm is much more rigid on the pro glove. This ensures the pocket keeps its shape while loose attachment of the mid-range glove can cause the pocket to collapse. This could allow a puck to bounce out of the pocket.

Finally, the quality of the materials is much better in the pro glove versus the mid-range one. The pro glove uses more resistant leather, better padding, plastic inserts that add protection and rigidity and more durable stitching. While the Pro glove has worked flawlessly for years with only some signs of wear, the mid-range glove has had a few issues. The webbing detached in multiple places which required re-threading and re-attachement. The stiching for the padding protecting the back of the hand also ripped through a layer of leather. Although this is mostly cosmetic, there is a possibility that the padding can "flap" around and expose a hole larg enough for a puck to go through and come into contact with the hand.

Preferences and Conclusion

I personally love the TPS bionic glove as it was designed with the help of an orthopedic surgeon to consider ergonomics. When it came out it was quite apart from the others out there and most of the goaltenders I knew thought it was the best glove available. I have stuck with TPS gloves since the bionic as they all have used mostly the same design and feel just as good as the bionic. However with the purchase of TPS by Sher-Wood, I will have to try them all out again and see which glove fits my hand the best!

Gloves are really a personal preference. They are all similar mostly due to the strict regulations for glove sizing. Where it matters is how the glove feels on your hand, where the break is located, how the straps feel, how well you can handle the puck with the glove on. Some prefer deeper pockets, or different angles of the glove palm but fit and feel is what you should look for. To know which one best fits you it is important to try a few gloves, opening and closing your hand to see if the break is in the right spot. Look at the adjustments to see if you can get the glove to have the right feeling. The worst thing is to buy a 500$+ glove that does not break in the proper place, feels awkward and does not protect adequately.

It is time for you to purchase a new set of goaltender leg pads. Perhaps this is even your first set! All the terminology, different sizes, manufacturers and price points available can be quite confusing. For this reason, we have compiled this buyer's guide to help clear things up.

A goaltender's leg pads are one of the most important pieces of equipment. Not only do they cover the most surface area, they are also used for mobility with the hybrid and butterfly slides. If these pads are sized incorrectly or are not adequately constructed, it can result in poor goaltender performance and goals being scored.

In the early years of hockey, goaltenders essentially used cricket pads to protect their legs. These pads did not cover much surface area but were adequate enough to protect the wearer's legs. In the 1920's pads specifically designed for hockey started to emerge. These pads were modeled off the cricket pads but were wider, and constructed of leather stuffed with animal hair. These pads made a big difference in goaltender's performance as they coverd much more surface area however they were heavy and absorbed water, making them extremely heavy at the end of games.

In the 1980's these natural materials began being replaced by other synthetic, lighter materials that do not absorb water. Pads were remodeled in the mid 1980's to adapt to the new buttefly style. This new style required pads to lay flat on the ice instead of just covering surface area, additional padding was also required on the knees to reduce the impact of goaltenders falling down constantly. In the 1990's, goaltender pads started adding sliding surfaces to the interior of the pads to help with the use of hybrid and butterfly slides.

In the early 2000's, pads were again changed to allow the redirection of shots rather than the reduction of rebounds. Previously, it was though to be advantageous to reduce the rebound of the puck so the goaltender could freeze it easily. The philosophy has now changed to have the pads give a bigger rebound, but have the goaltender redirect them to the corners and out of play. Not much has changed since the 2000's other than the adoption of even lighter materials and changes in pad sizing due to NHL regulations.

In the next pages, we will explain the various terminology associated with goaltender leg pads.

Terminology - Exterior

Boot

The section of the pad that covers the foot from the toe to the ankle is referred to as the boot.

Leg section

The leg section is the main section of the pad, located between the boot and the knee rolls.

Knee rolls

The knee rolls are located towards the top of the pad, they give flexibility to allow the pad to bend at the knee. In some newer pad models, the knee rolls have been removed to allow for better redirection of rebounds.

Terminology - Exterior part 2

Thigh rise

The section located above the knee rolls is called the thigh rise. It is mainly used to increase coverage of the 5-hole.

Outer roll

The thicker portion on the outside of the leg pad is called the outer roll. It is included in the pad to prevent shots from being directed into the net should they slide on the pad surface.

Sliding surfaces

The sliding surfaces of the pad are located on the inside of the leg pad. They allow the pads to slide on the ice. The surfaces also include protective padding for the knees and the calves of the goaltender.

Terminology - Interior

Leg channel

The leg channel is the portion of the pad where the goaltender's leg makes contact with the pad.

Knee protector

The knee protector is a protector attached to the pad which is designed to protect the knee from shots. This is usually limited to the top of the knee and part of the thigh.

Newer style knee protectors wrap around the knee as thigh boards were banned in the NHL a few years ago. Some pad manufacturers will however give the option of adding thigh boards to the pads. An image of thigh boards is displayed below.

Knee wrap

The knee wrap ensures the pad remains in good contact with the knee. It usually also has some additional padding to protect the sides of the knee from impacts with pucks or to help cusion the butterfly.

Calf wrap

The calf wrap ensure the leg has good contact with the leg section of the pad. It also has some additional padding to protect from shots.

Terminology - Other

Knee riser

The knee riser offers additional padding to protect the knee from the impact of going down in the butterfly. It also increases the distance between the ice and the knee for better goaltender comfort.

Calf riser

Much like the knee riser, the calf riser increases the distance between the ice and the calf for better goaltender comfort.

Leg straps

The leg straps are used to attach the pad to the goaltender's leg. There are two main straps used, the belt with holes and buckle type and the simple buckle type. The simple buckles are preferred by some since the length only has to be adjusted once.

The belt with holes and buckle type are preferred due to thier simplicity and small size.

Toe attachment

The toe attachment is used to tighten the pad to the goaltender's skates. Some older pads use a leather straps which could be adjusted on either side of the toe. For most pads recently, a lace is used to tie the pads to the skate. In the following picture, a sliding toe attachment is shown. It allows the ankle of the skate to change when the goaltender is in the butterfly to facilitate the hybrid slide. (Instructions on how to tie the laces to the pads are available here)

Breaks

The breaks are locations in the pad where a discontinuity has been introduced to increase the flexibility of the pad. The breaks are located in areas where the pad should bend. The following picture highlights breaks in the outer roll. There are also breaks in the main pad itself (aligned with the ones highlighted in the outer roll) however the knee rolls are not considered breaks.

Sizing

Now that we know pad terminolgy, we can discuss proper pad sizing. Pad sizes are measured in inches representing the total length of the pad. However as manufacturers build their pads differently and have different styles, the sizing is far from standard. Manufacturers have also recently added a "+" to the sizes representing extra inches added to the thigh rise section. For example, a 34" pad would fit the same as a 34"+1" pad however, the latter would have a thigh rise that is 1" longer for total pad length of 35". The idea is that a goaltender that wants a longer thigh rise can get it without having to buy a pad designed for a taller goaltender.

In my opinion, a new standard should be developped so goaltenders can change from manufacturer to manufacturer and keep the same pad size. Only the length of the boot and the thigh rise would change from manufacturer to manufacturer and could also be included in the size number. This would come down to being personal preference rather than actual sizing. (Some measurement such as "Boot length - ATK - Thigh Rise" could greatly help goaltenders in their sizing)

ATK stands for ankle to knee measurement. It is often used in trying to "ballpark" the size of goaltender pads but in my opinion is currently very innacurate due to lack of consideration for the size of the boot or the thigh rise in the goal pads and no mention of the use of knee protectors. Goaltenders usually measure their ATK and then compare with other goaltenders with the same ATK who have listed their pad size/manufacturer/model. If this measurement method were taken into consideration by manufacturers it could increase the accuracy of pad sizing.

Below is a video outlining how to measure your ATK.

In my opinion the best method of sizing for goaltender leg pads is to go to a local store and try them on with your skates and knee pads. This will allow you to see how they actually fit and feel when you do a butterfly or are in your basic stance. To know if they are the correct length, you should ensure your knee is located in the knee wrap and is aligned with the middle knee roll (if the pads have any). If the pads you are trying on have no knee rolls, your knee should be in the area where the pad bends. If you bend the top of the pad, you should feel if your knee is located in the correct area or not. Remember that pads will "shorten" slighty (approx 1") with time, so it is better to take slightly longer pads as they will be shorter when they are broken in.

Pro vs Mid-range pads

Manufacturers of goaltender pads usually have different models at different price points. Their flagship "Pro" pad is the most expensive and usually what is used by goaltenders in the NHL (with some modifications). They will then be followed by one or multiple Mid-Range pads as well as an low-end pad. Manufacturers may also have more than one line of pads meant for different styles of goaltenders.

Personally, I have had both pro and mid-range pads and would steer away from the low-end pad. I have found that the main difference between the mid-range and pro pads were the materials and worksmanship. The pro pads I have were handcrafted in Canada while the mid-range ones were "Engineered" in Canada but build elsewhere.

The mid-range pads seem to have lacked some attention to detail as small defects can be found. There is also a much more liberal use of less-durable synthetic materials in key areas where wear could be an issue (near the skate). There is also a lack of calf wrap on the mid-range pads. Protection for this area is replaced by extra padding held in place by the leg straps which in my opinion does not offer as good a feel or protection. The knee riser on the mid-range pad is also much thicker than required and is not flush when standing in the basic stance.

Pro pad leg channel

Mid-range pad leg channel

Comparing the front of the pad, the pro-spec ones have an extra break in the outer roll and seem to be better designed for flexibility. As for feel, the pro pads can withstand stronger shots without having the impact feel too strong.

It is my impression that the pro pad will be more durable and more suitable for higher levels of play. The Mid-range pad is suitable for most goaltenders as I have used them in leagues with players that had played competitively, some at Junior levels including major junior and the occasional time against an ex-NHL player. Although they were borederline for some shots, most goaltenders would not face shots of that caliber and so they should prove adequate especially considering they can be half the price of the pro pad. The pro pad is really aimed for high-end players that need the best equipment, can feel the difference and can afford the higher price.

Preferences and Conclusion

Each goaltender will have a preference in how the pads fit and are strapped to their legs. Some like the straps extremely loose, others like the pads to be tight at all times. The use of belt and buckle or simple buckles depends on the person. The length of the boot and thigh rise is also quite a personal thing. It is therefore impossible to have one pad model or pad size that will suit everyone. It is only though experimentation with different models, sizes and styles that a goaltender will see what he likes and dislikes.

Finally, the important aspects to remember are to buy a pad that is sized correctly, ensure the materials are of good quality especially on the sliding surfaces and surfaces prone to wear and make sure that your are comfortable moving with the pads on before buying them.

The first time you go buy a goalie stick you will probably stand in front of the rack in total confusion. There are so many different models by different manufacturers and at different price points. Which one is right for you? Hopefully after reading this guide, you will know exactly which one to buy.

Let us first go through a few basics on the goaltender hockey stick. The stick is composed of three parts, the shaft, the paddle and the blade.

The shaft is the longest and thin section, it mostly serves to grip the stick and facilitate handling the puck.

The paddle is the thicker section directly below the shaft. This section is wider in order to cover more surface and to facilitate the stopping of pucks. Some goaltenders place the paddle length along the ice in some positions in order to cover the bottom portion of the net.

Finally, the blade portion of the stick is used to stop pucks along the ice and to handle the puck. The blade section will be in contact with the puck more often than any other section.

The first thing to consider when purchasing a goalie stick is the material from which it is made. If you have read our article on hockey stick materials you will recall some of the materials used and their properties.While having a lighter stick can improve performance for a player who uses his stick often, for a goaltender this is not as much of a factor.

A lighter stick will enable the goaltender to move his blocker hand more rapidly and increase his chance of blocking a shot but in my experience, balance is more important than weight. Balance is dependent on the weight distribution of the stick. The centre of gravity should be located directly at the top of the paddle section where the stick is held. This allows you to move the stick much more easily even if it does weight more than an unbalanced stick. To check for the centre of gravity of the stick hold the stick in a horizontal position with one finger, move your finger along the stick length until it is balanced on both sides. (the position of your finger will indicate the centre of gravity)

You should aim for the centre of gravity to be as close to the junction of teh paddle and the shaft as possible.However, due to the nature of the sticks, the centre of gravity will usually be on the paddle, approx 12-21cm from the junction of the shaft and the paddle. It should be noted that the addition of tape will slightly shift the centre of gravity towards the shaft.

Other than balance, some factors to consider are material durability, flex and vibrations. As was seen in the hockey stick materials article, while carbon is extremely light and stiff, it is also weak during impact loading. A stick which receives numerous impacts should therefore be made of a limited amount of carbon fibre to ensure some durability.

The flex of a player stick is quite important to ensure the strongest shot possible, however for a goaltender, shots are not as important. The goaltender must be able to pass the puck and clear it out of his zone which does not require a high stick stiffness. Furthermore, the stiffer the stick, the more vibrations will be felt when blocking a shot. These vibrations can be uncomfortable and distracting.

If the stick is properly balanced, the weight savings of using carbon and increase of stiffness are not significant when considering the loss of durability. I prefer a stick with a mix of fibreglass and carbon for balance, durability, relatively low stiffness and light weight.

Now that we know the ideal materials of the stick, we have to find out what is the correct sizing. There are three categories of sticks to consider : Junior, Intermediate and Senior. Junior sticks are the smallest in size, designed for goalies up to 12 years of age. Intermediate sticks are slightly longer and bigger than the Junior sticks and are for goalies between 11 and 15 years of age. Senior sticks are the largest and meant for goalies 15+. Keep in mind the age ranges are dependent on individiual height.

Once you have selected the appropriate stick category for you, you must then choose a paddle length. The paddle length is important as it will dictate how high your blocker will be from the ice. If you choose a stick with a paddle length that is too short, the heel of the stick will not be in constant contact with the ice. The goaltender may hold his blocker too low for comfort to compensate for the inadequate length of the paddle.

On the other hand, if the paddle length is too long, the tip of the stick will not be in contact with the ice. The goaltender may hold his blocker too high for comfort to compensate for the length of the paddle.

It is therefore important to choose the correct length of paddle to ensure the stick is in constant contact with the ice and increase the chances of stopping pucks. Don't be afraid to bring your skates in the store and wear them while trying out sticks. Get into position with the stick and look down at your stick to see if the blade makes contact with the floor.

Finally, the curve in the blade should be shaped to the preference of the goaltender. The shape is truly a personal preference but only really comes into play when shooting or passing the puck which does not occur extremely often.

In conclusion, the next time you go buy yourself a goaltender stick. Ensure that the stick is well balanced. Find the stick's centre of gravity, see how the stick feels when you move it around holding it correctly.

Next, ensure the paddle length is adequate by taking your regular stance and looking at the blade of the stick. (this works better if you have your skates on)

Make sure the stick material suits your needs. Favour fibreglass or wood for durability or carbon for extremely light weight. (As mentionned previously, I find balance is more important than weight).

Finally, check the stick's flex and curve as per your personal preference.

You just get home from the shop with your gear in tow, excitedly spread it all out and then wonder, how do I put all this on? The first time you stand in front of all that gear, you may be a tad bit intimidated but no worries, this step-by-step guide will make things much easier! We've also included some tips so you know how to get everything on just the way you like it, every single time you step on that ice!

For quick reference here is the order, in the following pages you will find detailed instructions including some tips:

Compression/Wicking under layer

Athletic Support

Socks (optional)

Pants

Skates

Knee Pads (recommended)

Goal Pads

Neck Guard (optional)

Chest Pad

Jersey

Glove

Blocker

Helmet

Detailed instructions:

The first step in getting dressed is to put on your compression/wicking under layer. I use a one-piece system but there is a variety of combinations out there so you can mix and match with whatever you like. Some players like to wear some compression under layers that can help them cope with old injuries. The most important part is to be comfortable.

Once you have that under layer on, put on your athletic support (Jock strap). Make sure it is positionned correctly, that it will not move out of place and that it appropriately covers your genitals. Tighten the leg straps and double loop them to ensure they will not become loose with movement. The last thing you want is a shot straight to the groin with no protection!

Once your athletic support is properly positionned, put on your pants. The system to hold the pants up varies per model but usally features a lace and some straps. You may also purchase some suspenders especially if the straps will not keep the pants in place. Goaltenders usually try to get the biggest equipment possible in order to cover more room (without affecting agility) and so your pants may be much bigger than your body. In my case, my pants were purchased when I was still growing and now require no extra support system.

After putting the pants on, the next step is to put your skates and knee pads on. Now while knee pads are not required I highly recommend them. As you will see later in this article, the knee protection system on pads is just not adequate. It only takes one good shot to your knee to cause some long-term damage and cut your hockey career short.

Putting on your pads comes next. This part confuses most new goaltenders, how exactly are you supposed to attach those pads to your skates with the lace? Well you're about to be answered! Note that this is the way I attach them, there are variations depending on the preference of the goaltender as well as the design of the pad. I personally like to have my pads tied tight at the ankles, others like it very loose so try different variations out and see what you like.

First, position the pad in front of the appropriate leg (buckles and the wide part on the front of the pad are towards the outside), the following picture depicts the right skate and the right pad.

Then take the laces and cross them through the first hole between your skate boot and your skate blade.

TIP-> If you want to increase the distance between your skate and the pad, you can tie a knot in the laces close to the pad (betwen 2-7 cm away from the pad). When you will pull the laces tight, the knot will keep the distance you want between your skate and your pad.

Take the laces and cross them through the second hole.

Simlarly, cross the laces through the third and last hole.

Now take the laces and tie a simple knot at the top of your skate boot and finish it off with a bow. If you have long laces, you may also want to wrap them around your ankle prior to tying the bow.

Now that the pad is tied to your skate, bring the pad to an upright position on top of your skate and attach straps of the knee protector around your leg.

As I mentionned previously, the knee protectors on pads are usually inadequate. As you can see in the following picture, there is a gap near the attachment of the knee protector to the pad (on either side). This area is certainly large enough for a puck to make direct contact with your knee. This is why I highly recommend knee pads unless you have an extremely good knee protector on your pad. Your knee protector should also go under your pants to ensure you have better flexibility (unless you have thigh boards).

Once your knee is properly secured, begin attaching your straps. The top two are usually simple buckles that require no adjustments. The first few times you wear the pads, adjust the length of these straps so you are comfortable both standing and when in a butterfly. They should not be so tight that they stop your circulation when your knee is bent, but also not so loose so the pad does not follow your leg. For the other buckles, tighten them to your liking but ensure you always have them at the same length from game to game (after your adjustment period). If you change the tightness of your straps, your pads will be positionned differently when you are in a butterfly/half butterfly. Small details like this can mean you let in goals or you are not comfortable while playing.

TIP--> I personally count the number of holes in the strap to know which one is my regular position (I use 4, 6, 8, 8). If you don't want to count, you can also mark the strap with a permanent marker.

TIP--> Don't tighten your straps too tightly, your pads are meant to move to be properly positionned when you are in a butterfly. (I like mine tight as this was the style before pads were built for the butterfly style, but I also have developped the flexibility to use them that way throughout the years) If you are just starting out, try to get them fairly loose, especially towards the top of the pad.

The final step in getting the pads on is to tighten the bottom strap. This strap passes throught the last hole between your skate boot and your blade so it is properly secured to your leg.

Now that the first pad is on, follow the same procedure for the second one ensuring the buckles are tigntened to the same degree for both pads.

Now it is time to put on the chest protector. Simply slip it over your head and fasten the straps around your waist. Then slip the arms into the arm sections. Ensure you tighten the straps near your wrists. The chest protector is designed to stop before your wrist so your blocker/trapper can fit without interference.

TIP--> Adjust the buckles on the arm sections to your liking then use some hockey tape to secure the straps so they will not loosen.

Next up is the glove. Make sure it is properly adjusted by using the wrist strap, and the hand strap (red arrows).

Also, make sure your thumb and your pinky finger are in the straps intended for them. You may have to adjust these so they are reasonably tight on your fingers but not too tight as to have to loosen them to take the glove off or put it back on.

Next up is the blocker. Adjust the wrist strap on your blocker so it holds on your hand nicely. I personally find most manufacturers make these straps too loose and I usually pull it as tight as it can go.

Finally, put your helmet on (using your blocker hand) and you're all set for the game!