Tatler Restaurant Guide 2014 - Where to eat, where to drink

Colbert

The Corbin and King western outpost of empire may not have quite recaptured the ‘sense of place’ of its predecessor, the Oriel. Then again, this Parisian-style all-day café doesn’t have Oriel’s offhand staff or inflated prices. (It has also recently resolved an issue with the council so the pavement no longer has to be cleared of tables at 10pm.) Star dishes include oeufs en gelée, oysters and kidneys, while the eclairs and gateaux – such a great word, and coming back – are historic. It’s sometimes a little frenetic, but we don’t know of anyone who eats here and doesn’t love it.