March 4, 2011

Meadham Kirchhoff's collections from the past year have been so good that I always felt I had to wait until I had something especially insightful to say other than ADIGHAFKDHFDKJ in order to do them justice, but their new show had me boiling over so we shall go over the past year of greatness now, ADIGHAFKDHFDKJ's and all. Plus I would like to rid of the feeling that one must sound Supersmart and Intellectual when talking about something as Serious as Fashion and would instead just like to babble about how much I like ribbons and sequins.

Fall 2010

This was the one that really converted me, with its floor length veils and bangle piles. It was Courtney Love-inspired (maybe I should just rename this blog I Like Courtney Love already? What if CL saw it? How would she feel? How would that girl who came up to me in real life and said she read my blog and that she thought my Love love was poisonous feel?) but did the kinderwhore grungey thing without falling into cliches, focusing more on CL's DIY skills and broken beauty queen fascination, with pipe cleaner tiaras combining the two most perfectly. The collection was really Grey Gardens in a way, more in theory than in relation to Little Edie's style of dressing. Each look felt like the outfit form of a house occupied by women who were once members of high society but now live isolated with raccoons and creaky floors and an old record player and memories and junk accumulated over time. I think that's my life goal, ultimately. I want a lot of wrinkles and a lot of raccoons and a lot of junk. The Hoarders kind of junk, not the Fergie kind of junk.

Spring 2011

Spring 2011 reminded me of an angsty girl in the formative years trying out different identities, with all the sugary/goth combinations, graphics of faces of anonymous young women, and millions of different colors in each head of hair. ("It's not red, it's Crimson Glow.")

I liked the details more than the overall collection, like the Desperately Seeking Susan jacket and velvet ribbon necklaces (hi that scary story that freaked me out when I was little) and nutty crowns and arts n crafts shoes. I used to draw eyelashes like this on with eyeliner -- I don't know why I haven't in a while -- and it once made one of my teachers think I'd gotten stitches under my eye.

Fall 2011

But this collection, THIS collection was inspired by Riot Grrrl and Chanel, which resulted in tiny shouts of rebellion coming from stiff, uniform-like dresses and knee highs and crosses. There's definitely a Nordic-y sweater vibe happening here too, making it more fall-appropriate. I think my favorite thing about Ed Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff's interpretations of angry music like Riot Grrrl and Courtney is that they don't add "punk" elements to their collections with studs and leather (looking at you, Givenchy) (looking at you, Balmain) (looking at you, Y-3) (as adorable as the image of Yohji sitting in candlelight, hand-stitching the ACDC logo is). They turn to the actual concept of DIY instead of the look associated with it so frequently that it's lost any meaning, and create identities that are about being passionate and loud and individual (words that are, again, so overused they've lost any meaning, but at least I'm not charging you thousands of dollars for consuming my cliches!)

ETA: "tee" from the comment section raised a good point: "Isn't there something kind of problematic about trying to mass produce "individual style"/DIY clothing period?" Yes, there is! My point with this was that MK's collection, as art, before we consider the business side, inspires a person (me, at least) to create their own DIY vibez because they make it look so damn fun. Now, when we consider that these pieces are also products that will be made many times and sold places, I don't think the DIY style is problematic because that's just it -- it is a part of their style, but that doesn't mean the clothes are something anyone else could think up or create themselves. It's high in quality and the design doesn't stop at just using DIY elements like pipe cleaners and a million brooches -- they develop those a step further with their own ideas. And yes, it's weird to mass-produce individuality, but Meadham Kirchhoff isn't a brand as inescapably everywhere like the Gap, and, again, I think the styling of their collections encourages one who would buy one of their pieces to mix it up. Like, I don't think you would ever see anyone wearing an MK head-to-toe runway look.(That was really long, but I think it's about more than just MK's collections, since this is something a lot of designers try and I'm trying to explain how I think they got it right.)

The Riot Grrl shrine full of iconography and flowers and what look like zine photocopies? I can't tell.

The little embroideries were supposed to be inspired by the little doodles in Bikini Kill zines, though.

And this is where the ADIGHAFKDHFDKJ gets used. ADIGHAFKDHFDKJ HOW GREAT IS THIS SWEATER. I knew the graphic reminded me of Hole, but it wasn't til I looked at my Live Through This tape that I saw it's the exact one, though I couldn't find a picture from the album art online. Hole wasn't part of Riot Grrrl, but the sweater still feels perfect in the collection, and maybe the Meadham boys need a bit of CL in everything they do. Also, remember how I was talking about my life goals earlier? Yeah, now it's this sweater.

This seems like a good time to post these pages I made for a fashion/music/feminism zine I started last year. I never finished it and probably won't now because all the pages have been sitting in the corner of my room since the summer and I'm sick of them so I may as well post a couple.

In the interest of combining my favorite Spring 2010 collection and some favorite songs:And stuff from Fall 2010 that made me think of the following 90s music ladies:

no worries, ASDFGHJK:AS:LKSJDFSF is a totally accurate way of articulating how amazing these meadham kirchhoff collections are. there are no words, only spazzy keyboard poundings. let's give another A:LKSFJD:SLKFJ:SLDFJSLDFJ for MK!

I am madly in love with Meadham Kirchoff, ADIGHAFKDHFDKJ is totally appropriate to describe them. Every time I'm in London (Im british guv'nor) I make a pilgrimage to 3 main places: The 'Pleats Please' boutique on Bond Street, 'The Oriental Canteen' in South Kensington, The tiniest and greatest chinese restaurant in the world and, of course, The MEADHAM KIRCHOFF boutique. When you go there you end up touching everything and just generally hanging around for hours... The atmosphere is just amazing. BTW tavz (that's your new nickname) I wonder if you'd heard about the Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A museum in London? I've arranged to go there next saturday with a friend and we're determined to be the first. ones. there. all of our conversations lately have started with "I wonder if Yohji himself will be there..." or "If I see Nick Knight I will lick him..."

I love how you differentiated what kind of "junk" you wished to have... hilarious. The crimson glow hue with all the collar ribbons make a really eye candy collection. I would want to covet that sweater too.

really love the collars, hope they're detachable! and yes, totally agree with what you said about feeling the need to sound smart. The amount of times that i've rewritten posts just because i'm too afraid i'll sound like an idiot!

I have read your Blog for quite a while now. I love that your into the 90's, when I was in high school I was into the 80's(even thou it was the 90's.....)Anyway, thanks for the intro to these great designers!

I wish you knew how much I want you to answer me or some kind of make a contact. I have absolutely no idea how come I've never seen this place before, but this two days since I found you I'm totally under impression. Gosh! It's like my whole life is now cracking and changing, and I scream scream scream of shame and other stuff I've been before. You're so complete and so solid...I'm not any stylish, well, I do like making my own way of looking, but in comparison to you it's just a top of boredom, and also I barely know a thing about fashionable designers and stuff. But I believe we have something in common - you don't just see-you taste the flavor, a hundred of related things come to your mind and so you feel inspired- so do I, though in my way, not THAT cool.So, what was my point? My point was to say that I'm just very very happy to see this entire world of yours. It's like Alice in Wonderland, but better, because here's not only one style, but thousands of them. Gosh! I'm so so inspired and ashamed

I love this post.. That sweater is too fantastic for words, and the riot grrrl shrine?!!!?!! ALKFJSLKDFJSLKDJF.

Hey Tavi, I also wanted to let you know that the second issue of Missfits is now online. When I had a tumblr & you followed me, you were one of the grrrls that reblogged it, so I thought I would let you know since I no longer have a tumblr. issuu.com/missfitsmag. Thanks, darling!

you're kind of my idol. i'm 28...anyway, your interest in all things clove and all things riot makes me really happy. i was into all of those bands, but ani difranco's living in clip album turned me into a righteous babe. have you listened to her before?

kathleen hanna in jil sander f2010 makes SO MUCH SENSE. it's like most modern art: "i could do that, but i didn't". you should also light lots of jesus candles in the hopes that you'll get that hole sweater. the candles are like $2 at the bodegas and they really work, or so my grandma says.

Excellent post! I know you said that you didn't want to write intellectually and would just babble, but once again you've written a review far more eloquent and in-depth and ENJOYABLE than any other published piece I've ever read.

Loving the fashion blog just thought I'd stop by to show my interest. I'm actually part of a non-profit organization that sells designer clothes for cheap for a good cause. If you could check out the website I would greatly appreciate it thank you <3

You're so talented and I admire your maturity and ability to create imaginative and clever entries...you're great. I spoke about you today in my graduate art class. Oh, read my blog too, you might find it interesting--I think it's honest and humorous. Tell your followers about it. Thank you and take care. http://www.thefashiondaddy.com

You're so talented and I admire your maturity and ability to create imaginative and clever entries...you're great. I spoke about you today in my graduate art class. Oh, read my blog too, you might find it interesting--I think it's honest and humorous. Tell your followers about it. Thank you and take care. http://www.thefashiondaddy.com

Man I just read their latest show's review on style.com, and does it bother you Tavi (or anyone else) that the reviewer didn't get the riot grrrl reference at all? I usually expect style.com to have more reliable critiques.

Extremely inspiring. MK's last few collections have also left me with very little to say that actually is actually correct english (okay, admittedly I just like to stare at their collections and drool over them, especially those shoes. THOSE SHOES)www.notimeforchitchat.blogspot.com

Fantastic post, Tavi <3 So much food for thought! Was going to put in something about 'digestion', but then thought better of it! :-)

I also like a lot of the details, and bits and pieces here and there, rather than many of the complete looks and styling etc. But the thing that I'm most excited about here is the creativity!

The amazing colours, shapes, textures, sense of play, references to drawing and music and feminism, ideas, and childhood, empowerment... It might not all be spelt out, but you can sense it all through the combinations.

And most importantly for me, the clothes that you have presented here indicate a thoughtfulness about dressing. You spoke about the clothes inspiring... Exactly! For me it's so incredibly and awesomely evident and inspiring when I see someone that has used their brain in relation to what they are wearing. And the more evident this fashionable (or just plain creative) thinking is in terms of what a person is wearing, the more I'm convinced of fashion's power!

What an epicly long post! You know sometimes when you see or hear something and you don't know where it's from then the next day it comes up again in a completely different place? Well yeah, last night I was watching Gilmore Girls (I need to numb my mind sometimes) and it started off with them watching Gray Gardens and I didn't get the reference and was just pretty darn confused, but then today I read your post and BOOM. You mention it, I'm intrigued, and Wikipedia tells me that it's referenced in the exact same GG episode I watched last night. Creepy, huh? Not really, but I had to tell someone and it would take toooooo long to explain.Besides, this is a good excuse for me to inform you that I wore the sequinned waistcoat, and to thank you for your words of encouragement. Hope all is well. Lauren xx

Hi Taveeeeee!My friend is creating a zine about riot grrrl and for the first issue she needs articles about why "girlyness" is looked down upon in today's society.I think you would interested in that type of topic and you love to speak your mind, so if you want to do it the link is here:

http://plasticbarrettes.blogspot.com/2011/03/more-about-zine.htmlthx

oh and i had this totally awesome comment about how I think meadham kirchoff was kinda ironic because they were creating riot grrrl look-alike clothing that has to be created by the actual riot grrrl and that each piece has to have some sort of inspriration behind it or history, or blah Blahhhh.but then my internet crashed and I had actually sounded smart for once!but whatever.

I know this porbably isn't the best place to ask this, (feel so free to ignore me), but I was wondering if you had thoughts on the whole Galliano gets kicked out of dior debacle, or on who should replace him?

I hope you decide to go into some form of consulting or fashion academia. Your thoughts never fail to amaze me. You possess so much more depth than 99% of the adults involved in the fashion industry. Your blog often reads to me like an honors thesis on the relationship between popular culture and the fashion industry. Your thoughts could even be distilled into an academic journal.

Ok, end of the ego stroking (which you honestly deserve) but I really hope that you'll put your mind to good use in whatever you do. I've had recent interactions with the less intelligent types in fashion, and visiting your blog always helps me to recharge my sartorial batteries. So much of what you say resonates with my own feelings about fashion that I rarely have time to verbalize. I'm too busy photographing other people!

There's an element - an almost visceral assault - about Meadham Kirchhoff that causes my brain to riot.

I dunno...

It's like they extend an invitation, a welcome, to somehow decipher a cacophonous stream of consciousness and yet - no matter the hours, days, weeks given to studying every facet of detail - I will miss a million more still beyond my naive comprehension.

Courtney Love and 'Live Through This' as a reference? The companions of my teenage years (I'm an old git now!), I can think of no better inspiration. For anything. Ever.

Let me just say I love your quirky sense of style and humor. If you get excited when you see fun details like sequins and ribbons now, you will likely NEVER grow old of that excitement, i'm 16 and I still do! (I seriously try to incorporate them into as many things I make or wear as much as possible!) I love your blog because its real, its fun, and it provides your readers with a fresh take on fashion. I love how you have managed to still be yourself throughout all of the fame, your interview in Glamour was surprisingly real. Its nice to see that rather than complaining about the ups and downs (gym class) of highschool, you are able to embrace them, and make light of them. Highschool is a tough place for fashion-forward girls, and girls that don't wear the same old cookie-cutter clothes, girls who aren't afraid to wear what they want. Ok, sorry, enough of the excessive compliments, but you totally deserve them! That said, I totally agree with you, fashion should be fun, people should be able to create and wear what they want without being judged. And girl, you are an inspiration, daring and never afraid to wear what you want!

hehe funny thing; i was talking to ed the other day and he said he was over courtney?!?!!! if you look in the back of their goodie bag booklet he says "courtney the the chignon was the last straw"! so funny!

also if you looked close at the shine it had heaps of pic of ben and ed in their youth... so great!

Tavi Hi My name is Dudley I'm 11 and I am Brazilian, I love your posts you think very boa.Aqui in Brazil released a novel called: Tititi and a character from the novel was based on you loved her role was his name Mabi . Tavi you more love your blog you are very stylish love you you are very beautiful. I see your blog outbreak of so many beautiful thingMany kisses Duda(I wrote this on google translator if you do not notice anything wrong, I'm not so good English so Nê haha)