Pho Oi Vietnamese Noodle House

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This latest competitive entry in Vietnamese cuisine adds to the city’s multicultural growth with a studied menu of standards alongside Cajun crawfish preparations. The owners throw down the gauntlet with crisp, meaty egg rolls, devoid of the pale cabbage and standard shrimp you might expect and instead fat with pork and ready to dredge in the formidable house hot sauce. We are predicting the summery bun (vermicelli) salad will be our go-to dish as the heat mounts: it’s cool and crunchy, with cucumber, pickled carrots, onion, and daikon; a topping of plump grilled shrimp, or near translucent beef; and a liberal splash of vinegary fish sauce. The crawfish is prepared as it is in Louisiana, piled high and served with corn on the cob and potatoes.