used this template for the cuts.the file name say 1.5" but it include one for 2" too.http://www.mediafire.com/?61di0xcx3z1i didn't follow the 1/4" between plates, i gave it more like 3/4".made the cuts with one blade on the saw then used sand paper folded with sand on both side, made a nice tight fit took me about 5min with #180 paper,easier to solder like this.

didn't had the right tool so i made a bunch of little holes and finished with a dremel.i don't think its the best way to do it but i don't think i will use this boiler for long but the price was right(free), i want something bigger.

edit:fixed pictures size

Last edited by Pikluk on Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

The more you read the more you learn.The more you learn the more you realize you don't know shit

should do you a nice job. fix it where you can attach the head directly to the boiler and should work as a potstill. i like the fact that you went outside the box on the boiler connector. a little flour and water will seal it up tight. the only prob. i see you have already addressed. need a bigger boiler! that rig would look great on a 7.5gal keg if you can get one! nice job!

thanks for all the good words .actually this was the first time working with copper(did a lot of work with brass no soldering tho,when i was a locksmith), but husker gave us a really nice tutorial for soldering copper here viewtopic.php?t=4052.and yes a 7.5gal keg would be perfect for me, i got 4 carboy... do the math(4 strip run and one spirit run...).

The more you read the more you learn.The more you learn the more you realize you don't know shit

I learned three very cool construction ides in the past few weeks.
Thanks to punkin for his thinking outside the box and building a compact double walled condenser by putting elbows on the inside of the inner pipe.
And thanks to Pikluk for showing me how to build a slant plate head. I've been schooled for sure.
That was an excellent display. Also your solution to the boiler connector is awesome. That's one of those things that makes me smack myself up side the head and say "Of course you idiot"

Pikluk, that is beautiful job. I am not surprised to learn you are a locksmith. And like others have said, it is an excellent photo tutorial on a slanted plate. A good picture is indeed worth a thousand words. (One small suggestion, the photos are a bit too big for my screen, might be worth downsizing them about 20%.)

I like the backdrop for the third photo!

There is nothing wrong with the way you have attached the column mount to the boiler, it is original and looks damn solid.

I agree with Ricky that it would probably be worth it to attach threaded fittings to the column-boiler connection, so you can pull the tall packing section out and screw the head section straight on to make a pot still. Even if you don't want to make flavoured spirits, it is still very useful for stripping runs.

Is the condenser cap soldered on or just sitting on? If it is soldered, you should put a hole in it (1/2" is plenty) as an emergency vent to prevent any pressure build up if the condenser fails for some reason.

This is an excellent demonstration for all newbies (not noobs Punkin ) of how to go about the business of constructing your own still. I have read with interest the threads and posts of Pikluk in his quest to determine what type of still he needed and the materials and skills required for the job.
All I can say is congratulations and a very well done Sir. A piece of equipment to be proud of.
Cheers.

frikzI especially like the condenser, what's the diameter of the centre coil and how did you bend it? Is it 1/4" O.D. tubing?

ask hook is the nice guy who made if for me.

dr_gribbThe boiler connector is just brilliant in ist simplicity

thank you the down side is that it doesn't give strength to the lid, thats why i haded the support thingy.

hooklineI am not surprised to learn you are a locksmith

the name kind of give it away

hooklineI like the backdrop for the third photo!

special at the market got 80kg for 50$, and thought it would look nice behind a still head

hooklines the condenser cap soldered on or just sitting on?

its just sitting there and i made a 1/4" hole after taking the picture(almost forgot to make it).

played with it a little(had 3x5gal carboy of birdwatcher sugar wash at 10%).
i only have a 1100w hotplate and this makes it bad for strip run with 52" of column,1 1/2 hour to boil and 3 more hours to strip half a carboy.
one question here the distilate came out kind of hot, will it be the same or worst with a 8" column?

The more you read the more you learn.The more you learn the more you realize you don't know shit

one question here the distilate came out kind of hot, will it be the same or worst with a 8" column?

Its an inherent part of the design and operation of this type of column. You have to run the condenser hot for ease of stabalization which gives you the hot distillate.

I had the same problem with mine and just constructed a small liebig condenser that fits on the outlet pipe. Just a piece of 1/2" tube over the 1/4" outlet pipe. The cooling water runs through it before getting to the condenser. Cools things down real good.

frikzI especially like the condenser, what's the diameter of the centre coil and how did you bend it? Is it 1/4" O.D. tubing?

Yes, 1/4" tubing from the air-con shop. The centre coil was wound around a 16 mm mandrel. I don't use salt/sand/water in the tubing, just bend it empty. Tape a foot or so parallel onto to the mandrel, then very carefully, and a little bit at a time, wrap the loose end around the mandrel. The first turn is the hardest, once you got that the rest is pretty easy. You have to keep as much (pulling) pressure as possible on the tubing while winding.

Once you wind the inner coil, slip the mandrel out and put a 32 mm mandrel over the inner coil, then wind the outer coil on that. The outer coil is much easier to wind than the inner.

It isn't so easy to explain, so I might find someone with a video camera and make a tutorial of how I do it.

Ahh, yes, of course. My mistake. My pot column just goes straight into the Liebig, which does all the condensing. But you are using your Liebig just for cooling the output, after it has been condensed by the coil condenser.

I too went ahead and built the 1/4 inch heat exchanger onto my column. I use it to bring down the temp of the final product. It is a good thing to just incorporate into any design that emits hot spirits.

just received my packing today.got one pound of copper mesh , only made
32" of packing with it, will need more .
i want to fill it to about 2" below the bottom plate.
playing with that right now steady at 94% about 400ml/h from low wine ~50%.

test cap are about 10$ cheaper then a regular end cap lot thiner too,it fits over a 2" I.D. copper pipe,
but since it was only to hold the coil at the right height.
the 1/4" hole its for safety its a vent hole to prevent pressure built up.

The more you read the more you learn.The more you learn the more you realize you don't know shit

That sucks about the packing, I talked with a man from mile-hi and asked if a pound of copper would do a 48"er he said yea so thats what I ordered should be O.K. I hate to be holding my **** in my hand being held up over $12.00 that sucks.

Noticed you chose to put the thermometer between the 2 plates versus further down the main stack, seems like that would give the most accurate reading but I've noticed others further down. I like the idea did you get any advice on that, is it proven or of your own design ?