Todos Santos Inn

“Ultra-romantic historic inn in the heart of laid-back Todos Santos, known for its art galleries, stylish restaurants and surf beaches”

Todos Santos residents still recall the day the regional governor hired a plane to scatter flowers into what is now the courtyard of the Todos Santos Inn, attempting to woo its resident beauty. It still remains a romantic oasis in this artists' community, a 90-minute drive north of commercialized Los Cabos. Built as the home of a sugar baron in 1872, the brick hacienda has been sensitively converted into a charming small inn, now owned by Los Angeles expat John Stoltzfus.

The 8 suites and rooms, with Spanish colonial-style beamed ceilings, hand-carved furniture, terracotta tiles and indulgent four-poster beds, surround a garden-patio lush with traveller’s palms, hibiscus and birds of paradise. Full of history, it whispers its stories in burbling courtyard fountains - interweaving them with evidence of the town’s evolution, from the faded mural of fisherman pulling their pangas onto the beach (as they still do at Punta Lobos), to its renowned bar and the upscale art gallery next door.

Highs

It's intimate, romantic (but not flowery) and full of old-world elegance

The large rooms have very comfortable beds, and most have air conditioning

Service is friendly, on a first-name-basis

There's a great bar, La Copa, with a picturesque patio fountain and a sophisticated wine list

The small, laid-back town of Todos Santos makes a welcome change from the tourist excesses of Los Cabos

Lows

The heated pool is good for soaking but too small for laps

The tranquil environment isn't appropriate for children

There are no TVs or phones

The nearest good beach is a few miles away

We've heard mixed reports about the breakfasts on offer

Best time to go

“Todos Santos is a few degrees cooler than Los Cabos. The peak season is December to February, when the evenings are cool and daytime temperatures are usually in the 70s F. It's hotter and more humid from May to October. There's a chance of tropical storms in July, August and September, but this area has a very high record of sunshine throughout the year.”

Our top tips

“Many people stay here for a day or 2 during a trip around Baja California, but you could easily spend up to a week exploring the galleries and beaches in and around Todos Santos.”

Rooms

There are just 8 rooms. If you're in the mood for romance, ask for one of the 4 Garden Suites, hidden in the lush tropical foliage of the garden courtyard. All have a spacious sitting room, a kingsize four-poster bed draped with mosquito netting and an intimate garden terrace. Arched windows, tapestry curtains and plush oriental rugs in rich gold, lavender and sage create the feel of old-world elegance. Crisp white bed linens, down comforters and decoratively tiled bathrooms with colourful Mexican ceramic sinks layer on luxury. A private pathway led from the pool area to our door; huge palms obscured the front windows, and French doors opened from our bedroom to a porch supported by Roman columns, overlooking a walled garden. Cocooned by palms under vaulted dark wood-beamed ceilings, we were reluctant to venture out!

The 2 Junior Suites are similar in style but come with a queensize bed, a pullout sofa and a shared terrace. All Garden and Junior suites have ceiling fans and wall-mounted air-conditioning units, but don't expect a TV, phone or minibar.

The 2 standard Terrace Rooms with queensize beds open onto the flagstone terrace of the original 1872 hacienda. Arched windows face the quiet street. The colonial style - plaster walls, high brick ceilings with rounded beams, carved furniture and terracotta tile floors - is charmingly spare. Room 2 opens to a furnished veranda with a delightful view of tiled rooftops and a fountain encircled by a cushioned flagstone bench, with the tropical garden a level below. Although these rooms don't have air conditioning, they're kept naturally cool by ceiling fans and breezes through screened windows, even on hot days.

Features include:

Air conditioning

Extra beds

Fan

Hairdryer

Mosquito net

WiFi

Eating

Downstairs from the La Copa bar is a restaurant, Landi's, which is open everyday except Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It prepares traditional Mexican recipes including pozole, paella, chile relleno and local fish wrapped in banana leaves. Guests dine al fresco by the fire, with live guitar music twice weekly.

Complimentary coffee and gourmet teas are available in the bar from 8am to 11am. In the evenings from Tuesday to Sunday the bar offers a wide range of hand-selected wines from Mexico, Chile, the US, France and Australia. The friendly bartenders also serve Mexican beers, cocktails and after-dinner drinks; champagne is available by the bottle for special occasions.

There are an abundance of places nearby for eating out, ranging from sophisticated Italian restaurants to Mexican taco stands. Café Santa Fe and Los Adobes are undisputed favorites, and Caffe Todos Santos across the street from the Inn offers delicious breakfasts (fluffy pancakes, French toast made from freshly baked bread, and Mexican specialities). On request, the Inn will serve meals from local restaurants in your room or on the veranda.

Features include:

Bar

Breakfast

Restaurant

Restaurants nearby

Activities

Explore Todos Santos' many art galleries - there are at least 14 in the historic district (including one adjacent to the Inn) selling original oils, contemporary sculpture, folk art, pottery and jewellery, mostly by local artists and craftspeople

Visit the Casa de Cultura museum, which blends regional history with charming stories of former residents (including the general’s niece who “died of love” pining for the leading man in a romance novel)

Spend a day on the beach: Todos Santos is located just inland from Baja's Pacific coast, which boasts miles of unspoilt beaches - the best are generally a mile or so off the highway on unmarked dirt roads, so good directions and a little patience are essential! Riptides and undertows are common, so locals recommend swimming only at Las Palmas (secluded with a freshwater lagoon) and Los Cerritos

Go surfing. There are 3 world-class surfing spots - Los Cerritos (which also has a surf camp), La Pastora and San Pedrito - within a 7-mile radius

Enjoy some spiritual exploration: expats lead yoga (each weekday), Qigong classes and Buddhist meditation discussions near the Inn; there's a schedule in the free monthly El Calendario de Todos Santos

Dance the night away: there's live reggae, jazz, rock, pop or blues every Friday from 9pm until late at Santana’s restaurant, and on Saturdays at Hotel California

Relax by the pool and enjoy a massage in your room

Activities on site or nearby include:

Creative writing

Historical sites

Language courses

Shopping / markets

Surfing

Swimming

Traditional cultures

Yoga

Kids

The Inn is best suited to adults, and no under 12s are accepted. Guests prize the quiet here.