If you were going to scope one C&R rifle...

Dorian Grey

Posted 16 August 2012 - 07:37 PM

Dorian Grey

Member

Members

26 posts

LocationNE Phoenix

Thanks Brian,

I bought several blued steel 1960's and 70's Weaver V9 scopes to mount on my milsurps. They have an early 20th century military look, performance it excellent, and they are less expensive than a new painted aluminum scope of similar quality. I have since changed the 03A3 scope to a different style Weaver 3-9X that looks a bit more like an M82 2.5x WWII scope. With HXP Greek surplus ammo it usually puts 4 rounds out of 5 under an inch at 100 yards but I always get that one odd flier. I'm still looking for a place out in the desert that I can test my Allied and Axis sniper rifles out to 880 yards. (half a mile) Haven't found it yet but still looking.

tonga

Posted 19 February 2014 - 09:39 AM

tonga

I Complain A Lot!

Members

20 posts

Real Name:haha

I've always been far more concerned about practical applications of skill, myself. These heavy calibers are a bit much for varminting. Their bullets overpenetrate and richohet too much for such hunting. They are not small game calibers. They are not match winning gear, of any sort of match. Few of us get to fire more than a very few rds at big game each year, and it's fairly easy to get good hits with such, if you will just have the good sense to carry a pair of carbon fiber arrow shafts or a walking stick (monopod) use a scope, know your area, climate and animals, and wear eye protection and Norton "sonic-earvalves" to prevent flinching. So not miuch practice is required for slowfire stuff. If you expect to need fast shots, especially a fast second shot, clunker bolt actions are not the answer.

little kids can "collect", or inherit a collection. Given a sound suppressor on the gun, and a braced firing position, a scope, trigger job and match ammo, a 12 year old girl can be taught,in one day, to hit men torsos at 1/.4 mile, at least as far as these clunker bolts can do, wit

with issue ammo, especially with the iron sights. The AR can be a carbine version for combat, or small game hunting (using the .22 unit). or it can be a 26", 1000 yd capable sniper/match rifle, in 10 seconds, by swapping out upper receivers. The problem with typing here seems to be with any second paragraphs or editing, so I just start a new post. :-) Give me that same 12 year old girl, who's never shot before, and in a second day of training, she'll be hitting men's torsos, quite reliably at 600 yds, way beyond what these clunker bolts can do, even with scopes and the best factory ammo available in the calibers, withoiut extensive smithing that renders them no longer collectible, that is. They just aint got the sort of lock time, trigger pulls, bedding, rifling specs, etc, needed for such shooting.

T=

the AR in 223 is THE winning combo at the 600 yd matches. This has been true since at least 1998, too. The 223 is suitiable for varmints all year long. The .22lr unit for it is suitable for snapshooting practice, teaching novices, small game hunting, shtf, and with 60 gr Nosler Partition softppoints the 223 is every bit as much "deer 0 rifle" as the 30=30 ever was.

5-6 of nice condition bolt clunkers run almost $2000, with an original scope, will run more like 2.5k, too. If you'll spend $200 on a tax stamp, a local shop can make you a very fine sound suppressor for your AR for $100. .

You will not believe the difference that using "can" makes, in all ways, hunting, match shooting, etc. Many states won't let you hunt game with silencers, but many will let you shoot varmints with such an accessory. Texas lets you shoot hogs with a can, at night, with night vision scopes. :-) Given subsonic ammo used in the .22lr conversion unit, the 223 can makes the gun sound like a BB gun. The can makes the full power 223 ammo sound like an unsuppressed .22lr rifle. A basic parts built AR is $600, the .22 unit is $200, a good drop in trigger job is $150. Youu can build it from an 80% lower receiver, nobody will know that you'd got it. Some are alloy, some are polymer. Some can be finished in an hour or so, cost $50, withoiut a drill press or a mill. You tube has videos about this. Ares is the maker, IIRC. why not be fast and accurate, involved in current BE, highpower matchs, deer and hog hunting, combat matches, small game, etc, while being shtf/sniper ready, hmm? A different upper, with match barrel, scope, etc, is just $800. So,fo

for the same money as the 5-6 clunker bolts (one scoped, you can have a rifle setup that is many time more useful

YOu can take apart the AR into a concealable unit, (in backpack, or slung under your arm) or in a gym bag, etc, for use on bicycle, in canoe, etc. Reassembly to fire is just 10 seconds. It's rust-proofed, the muzzle is threaded, the sights see over the silencer just fine. luminous sight inserts are available, as are ambi safeties. chromed bores and chambers are available, as are optical sights. Because the rifle "can" is worth 3x what you paid for it, you can always sell this assembly at a profit, too.

Dorian Grey

Posted 19 February 2014 - 06:21 PM

Dorian Grey

Member

Members

26 posts

LocationNE Phoenix

Tonga,

The original post was "If you were going to scope one C&R rifle... "

I don't understand why you posted such comments.

I have a very accurate AR15. I really like it, but my K31 and 1903A3 will out shoot it at any range. And they have no-drill / no-tap mounts. Two of my Garand's will beat it with irons at any distance. My PU and PEM snipers will too...although they are drilled and tapped...they are restored ex-snipers.