How Dreadlocks Work

Developing dreadlocks requires the same basic step-by-step process, whether you're paying a professional stylist, or working on your own hair at home. The point of variation comes when it's time to twist the locks into shape. Depending on the preferences of your stylist and the texture of your hair, you can twist it up in a number of different ways. Regardless, this simple step-by-step procedure will lay the foundation for permanent dreadlocks:

Step one: Wash your hair and dry it thoroughly before beginning the process.

Step two: Divide the hair into sections. You can do this either to the entire head first and hold the sections with bands or clips, or finish each section one at a time.

Step three: Pay attention to the size of your sections. When you pull them tight, the roots of the hair you're holding should be outlined by a perfect square of exposed scalp. The larger your squares, the thicker the final locks will be.

Step four: Add a small amount of product to each individual strand before you work with it. (Experts differ widely and passionately about what to use. Some use creams, waxes or aloe to prevent the hair from drying out. Wax is especially helpful for straight hair. Purists just use water.)

Step five: Twist each lock of hair tightly in a clockwise direction and clip it at the end. (See sidebar.) If you have straight hair, or curly hair that is very long, you will have to backcomb the hair first. To backcomb, pull each section of hair straight. While holding the tip, use a fine-toothed metal comb and run it through the hair from the tip to the root. Repeat to the same section of hair until the individual strands are drawn toward the root and tangled together. You want to continue this process until the entire length of hair has formed those tangles, and then repeat with each strand.

Step six: Completely dry the locks with an electric hair dryer. If you used wax, this step will also melt the wax into each lock.

But the process isn't over. Maintaining these proto-dreadlocks, and caring for them over the years, also requires several important steps.

Methods for Twisting Hair In to Dreadlocks

If you have curly or kinky hair, you have more options for forming dreadlocks than those with straight hair. That's because kinky hair locks up easier and doesn't need as much coaxing. Here are some of the methods for twisting the hair when you initially form the locks:

Twisting: Twist the entire strand of hair in a clockwise direction. Twisting clockwise will ensure that all of your dreadlocks are going in the same direction, so when you twist them later as part of maintenance, you don't actually untwist them.

Strand twists(double/triple): Divide your hair into either two or three sections, and overlap them in a clockwise, spiraling pattern.

Braids: Braid the bottom three inches of the hair when you form the locks. These braided sections are usually cut off once the locks begin to mature.

Sisterlocks/Brotherlocks: This is a proprietary approach to very thin locks that are easier to wear in ponytails and other styles. They must be styled by a registered Sisterlocks stylist.

Freeform: If you want to go the natural route, you can simply skip the twisting and let the hair go its own way. Works best if you begin with short hair and have a kinky texture.