The INON LE lights/torches do not turn off when the strobes fire. The INON aiming lights (in the strobes) should turn off when the strobe fires if they are anything like my Sea & Sea YS-110a's

I'm also looking at picking up a couple of the LE550-W lights for use as a night dive torch and focus light for wide angle work (will get the single light holder to attach to the shoe mount on the top of my housing, i'll be using the aiming lights in the strobes for macro work.

Something to keep in mind. The requirements for a focus light and for a dive light are completely different. I don't think there is any on the market which fullfill both well. It should be remembered that the primary requirement for a dive light is to be used as a signalling device, which requires a bright narrow beam.

For a focus light the requirement is a bright but soft light with wide beam.

Personally, although I like Inon products, don't think the LE550 W will make a good dive light.

I really wish one of these companies will set out and build a light which can be used as both with the following functions:
Focusable beam - from 75 down to 20 degree beam
Adjustable power settings
A setting which will switch the light off when the strobes fire (but it should be able to disable this function)

retiarius, when would you like to use a focus light for wide angle work? Is the light/vis conditions not good enough for the camera to easily focus when taking wide angle photos?

retiarius, when would you like to use a focus light for wide angle work? Is the light/vis conditions not good enough for the camera to easily focus when taking wide angle photos?

Night diving only. I haven't got the YS-110a's wet yet but doubt that the aiming lights will be sufficent for working at night, also don't want to kill the battery life in the strobes by running the aiming lights all the time, but need a mountable dive light as i'll need both hands on the housing

Interests:Sunlight reefs, warm water, fine wine, beautiful women. And Manchester City Football Club

Posted 18 May 2010 - 10:43 PM

So there are two different answers here... who is right?

Whoops, could be me bad...... Sorry, guys! Was reading this (too) quickly at the airport having been held up for the second time in a month by Icelandic ash. I have now racked up 10 days No Fly Time through volcanic ash.

I was talking about the Inon 220/240 which are, of course, the photo strobes rather than any other Inons...... they most definitely turn off/on when firing the shutter provided, of course, the right switching is chosen inside the housing.

Again, apologies for the confusion. I'm not sure why I replied so quickly - God knows I was going no-where fast....

I've received my Fisheye FIX 500DX, and I'd like to share my feedback: in a word, it's excellent!

The power of this light is more than enough, and the ability to fine tune the amount of light shot is just excellent.
Plus, they offer a handy system to switch colored filters underwater, and the red filter is just awesome for final approach before picutre. I saw no color impact on the picture.

i recently purcaced a LE550w to go with my LE250. now i use the LE550W as my camera mounted light , focus assist , critter spotting some video work ect and keep my LE250 in my BC pocket as a backup torch and something to give my dive model ect

the difference in light output is substantial , i thought the LE250 was brighrt then when i used the 550 WOW . i easy get 2 dives out of the 550 using it most of the time .

I have been using a Nocturnal SLX300 for a few years, and just upgraded it to the SLX800. Quite a good deal, Nocturnal sells a bulb upgrade for about $125 or so. The SLX800 is a big improvement on what was already a great light. As a bonus it comes with 3 sets of reflectors, 12, 60, 90 degrees. I used it for the first time a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed. The 90 setup is very bright (800 lumens), smooth, and did a great job in limited vis Puget Sound conditions. Using Alkaline cells I did 3 60 minutes dives without appreciable loss of illumination. I don't usually get as long a burn time with rechargables, but Eneloops seem to be good for close to 2 hours.

It's a pretty good deal, well made, and excellent service from Nocturnal. Never had a leak or failure, but when the lock tab on the power switch broke they replaced my light no questions.

I have two INON LE-550W lights and INON's dual light holder that mounts under my D2000 strobe. With the diffusers a very wide even beam, and I can adjust the brightness somewhat by using one or two lights. Not as wide as my INON UFL-165AD lens though. I am thinking of mounting them with a slightly divergent beam (the holder allows some adjustment of exact aiming when mounting the lights, but not easily adjusted when underwater) to get a wider beam laterally for use with the WA lens. Not sure if that will give me too much of a hot spot where the beams overlap in the middle. I will try this out on my next rip in November to Little Cayman. Bloody Bay wall should give me lots of opportunity to work on WA techniques. Often just use the lights, instead of the strobe. If you don't leave them on al the time you can easily get two dives on one charge of Eneloop batteries. They are rather long, but incredibly well made. And, NO, they do NOT turn off when strobe fires, nor do any of the other INON LED lights, to the best of my knowledge. But then I can use either my Fisheye Nano or just the built in focus light on the D2000 if I want that. But they do make a rather nice little video light for when I use my Canon S90 as a video rather than still camera.

Stopped by Reef Photo and Video the other day and was shown what was available and recommended. Can't justify spending that much more on a focus/aiming light, but I'm tired of fiddling with lining up the two modeling lights for macro with my DS-125's. Have read this thread.

Why would I not be satisfied with the above listed Fantasea light? Have not seen it mentioned. Is it related to the "360" that *has* been mentioned?

*If* I were to acquire said light, how do I best (most cheaply :-)) mount it into the screw hole on the top of my Ikelite 550D housing? Some sort of "flex arm" looks like it would be nice, but I can't find a picture of how the parts are connected. Don't even know what a "Y-S" mount is. Help! TIA

And get a 1 inch ball that screws into the top mounting hole and twin clamp.

Thank you! And that pic of the YS mount helps. I'm guessing that the ball arm has a screw on the end opposite to the end that the YS mount attaches to, no?

Since I last posted, I took the top off of an old, broken tripod, turned it upside down, and the screw fits the hole in the housing. I'm thinking that some acrylic for making impression trays (and maybe a little duct tape, if necessary :-)) will get me going with the 39.95 mini focus light from B&H or Adorama, with no further purchases. Wonder why he didn't show me that one at Reef. . .

Tested it out while in the darker areas under the Blue Heron Bridge last weekend. That's not a lot of light that it puts out, but it worked exactly as advertised for helping with focusing when there's no sunlight.

On three dives with my 60mm macro, I also tested out +4, +7, and +6 diopter setups - my first attempts with screw-on diopters. It worked out that with the light pointed down as far as it can go, it was just right for the closest focus with +4 diopter, but it doesn't aim close enough to the end of the flat port to get the most out of the +6 nor +7 diopter setups.

While it would be hard to imagine that this light could cause a "hot spot", there's no danger of it, as the light turned itself off for a second with each flash of my strobes.

As an aside, I *love* what I can do with the diopters, but the loss of flexibility can be aggravating at times.

I shoot the 105mm and 60 mostly. In Washington State, USA. This is dark green water. I use the light below. I do not have hot spots. I am able to mount it using the ULCS adapter for the slot in the top of my Sea & Sea housing. I believe somebody mentioned the model number. It is the one with a square flat disk held to a straight ball by a screw and washer. It slides in and you tighten it and attach the strobe with clamp and ULCS adapter for your light. I found the ULCS adapter arm for the sea & sea strobes works with the light below. Also, it has a signal flash mode option. It has come in handy in poor viz to find my buddies. Thankfully, I have not had to use it on the surface.

Has anyone used the Sola 600 for a focus light? A buddy says he likes it for the red light, which doesn't seem to bother the critters as much. Guess the big question is are the red lights effective for focus needs? If so, are there other options out there? Either lights, or red lenses for lights?

Has anyone used the Sola 600 for a focus light? A buddy says he likes it for the red light, which doesn't seem to bother the critters as much. Guess the big question is are the red lights effective for focus needs? If so, are there other options out there? Either lights, or red lenses for lights?

I don't know about the Sola LED red light, but all my AF Nikons used U/W (F4s, N90s, and D80) focus well in dim, red-filtered, incandescent light.Bob

I use a red filter over my Fisheye LED 48DX with Nikkor lens to shoot mandarin fish and have no trouble focusing. But it depends on the lens you are using, a slow focusing lens will still be a slow focusing lens with a red or clear light.

I use a red filter over my Fisheye LED 48DX with Nikkor lens to shoot mandarin fish and have no trouble focusing. But it depends on the lens you are using, a slow focusing lens will still be a slow focusing lens with a red or clear light.

Thanks for the great feedback guys! I'm currently using my 60mm Nikon, but, I just yesterday finally bit the bullet and bought the 105mm. I'll probably go with the sola then. Love the size and the charge aspect of it, plus the red filter!