Well I installed the UTEC, and I am running the base stage 2 map from TXS which says I should hit 16.5 psi at 4k rpm. Well w/ the ABC open 2, 3, and 5 turns, I still get the smae result. WOT in 3rd right around 4000 RPM mark, I only hit 10 PSI. That is THE HIGHEST I logged on the UTEC. That is reading gauge also. My Blitz DTT peak boost has only been .77 hkpa. Anybody?

I did. I tried closed and open. Now I put stock ECU back on, took off ABC and everything is back to way it was except w/ a turboback. Around 2k RPMs i get a whine noise. Its pretty noticeable but I don't know what it is.

Put stock ECU and factory boost lines back. Peaked at .2 bar which is about 3 psi. Then I decided I woudl take off the hose going into the wastegate actuator and boost was supposed to spike like crazy if the wastegate was working properly. Well I peaked at .31 bar which is about 5 psi. I am thinking my wastegate is stuck open because I tried pulling toward the front of the car on it and I couldn't get it to budge. Here is a pic of what the wastegate actuator arm looks like with the car off. I haven't seen it move at idle while revving either. Here is pic, can you tell if its stuck open or closed?

Okay update again ahah. I saw a pic of a actuator and that is how it is supposed to look. But now back to the test run I did w/o the hose on the actuator. I heard that if my boost would go crazy w/o that hose. But at 4 k rpm at WOT in second, I hit the .31 bar. Now my question is, would I still hit crazy boost w/ the wastegate actuator hose off even if the turbo was shot? Because they said if I don't hit really high boost w/ the wastegate actuator hose off then the wastegate is mechanically malfuntioning. BTW they is NASIOC

Does anybody know how to test if the factory boost control solenoid is wokring? The reason I think its the wastegate stuck is because that test above. But I think the results of that test could also mean factory boost control solenoid is broke or the turbo shat the bed. And I am pretty sure I don't have any leak. Does that whining noise indicate one or the other?

The boost solenoid is a simple valve, it works by the ecu pulsing the ground to allow the solenoid to open and release pressure. you can check it by testing the power side of the harness with the car in the run position(not running though) you should have power on one wire. the other is a computer controlled ground. now hook up a vacuum pump like a mighty-vac to one of the nipples on the solenoid. apply vacuum to it and see if it holds, apply battery power and ground to the solenoid and it should release the vacuum pressure. if all these tests are ok, then you likely have a short to ground on the control side or a bad ECU.

[I]"Winners never quit, quitters never win, those that never win or quit are idiots."[/I]

yes, test the power wires going to the solenoid with a voltmeter (a testlight will do in a pinch)just disconnect the solenoid and probe each wire at the connector, one is power and one is a controlled ground. as for the sticking toilet flapper, yes this will limit the boost to a few pounds by bypassing the exhaust past the turbine. with the solenoid line removed and plugged the turbo if working properly should make about 6-10 psi before the boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure and opens up the wastegate flap. if you disconnect the vacuum lines from the actuator and the turbo, you should be able to overboost it no problem. oh, another thought, the solenoid is a normally closed type so if there is a failure of the system it wont go over 6-10 psi due to the nature of the actuator design. the solenoid acts like a vacuum leak by releasing pressure from the actuator signal line and dumping it back into the intake pipe to build boost. with the pressures you said you are getting I really think that the problem is in the solenoid. usually a stuck open flapper will not build more than 2-3 psi, unless it is just stuck open a fuzz.

[I]"Winners never quit, quitters never win, those that never win or quit are idiots."[/I]

I am just going to take it to the dealer w/ the TBE on and tell them what I think the problem is. I don't think my TBE would have caused any of the four problems so I will bring my Magnuson Moss Warranty act w/ me

yeah, because running the shit out of it isnt what kills the bearing in the turbo...

if you could unhook the reference line to the wastegate acutator, leaving it open, and you still could not build over 10psi...then you either have a bad turbo, or a boost leak. which, there is not alot of areas it could happen, but the BOV may be leaking, the clamp or hose from the TMIC to the TB is loose or leaking, the inlet pipe to the TMIC is cracked or leaking, or there is a hole in the TMIC,

and BTW....the wastegate arm wont work going toward the car....that is closing it. the actuator PUSHES the rod.....

and on testing the solenoid.....umm....that is how it works, yes, the ECU pulses ground to it, but DO NOT USE A STANDARD TEST LIGHT ON ANY ENGINE SENSOR CIRCUIT!!!!

that is a sure way to fry an ECM....true on some circuits its fine....but use a volmeter. (a test light can give you a false reading.....)

and besides, the boost solenoid is only going to have a pulsing ground to it under load anyway....

Well took it to the dealer today. There was a chewed up washer on laying on the air filter. The mechanic thinks it got down into teh turbo and ate it up. Monday they are taking off the dp to make sure. Anybody know how much I should expect to pay for a new turbo from the factory? The guy said if the washer isn't from something I did, then it will be warrantied. I don't think I touched a washer and I haven't touched the air filter ever. I did take off intake silencer though.