2 comments so far

Shawn, here’s a couple of things I did differently with my old contractor saw that used a splitter and guard assembly instead of riving knife.

First, the guard and splitter were junk, so they got removed quickly. I didn’t use a splitter for a while and this was when I had the two kickbacks I mentioned in the other vid. I did some research and learned a shop made splitter is quick and easy to make, and does the job well. I had one made of steel (aluminum works well too) that was just below the blade when set up for 3/4” cuts, and the other was a simple piece of maple cut to the thickness of the kerf and glued into the blade kerf in a wood zci. This worked best. So if the stock guard/splitter doesn’t work out for you, those are a couple of options. Also, about the guard, I have mine removed and will keep it off. I’d rather be able to see where the blade is in relation to my fingers than rely on a piece of plastic to keep my fingers away.

Second, I would never use a push stick like the one in the rockler kit. They’re very dangerous IMHO, because they apply no downward pressure, so you have little control.

My guard/splitter has been off the saw for well over a decade. I really tried to be good about using it the first 6 months but after removing/replacing umpteen dozen times it just stayed off. Then I made some splitters but it was the same deal, on/off/on/off, until it just stayed off.

Tablesaw accidents are 100% user error and nothing scares me more than realizing I let my attention wander for a moment while the saw is running.