Awhile back, I was trying to decide which rear end enhancement for my 2102 F-250 I wanted to go with. Well, I decided on the Timbrens. I really didn't want to mess with the air bags and the cost with the on board compressor was a little more than I wanted to spend. $750 vs. $168. The Timbrens took about an hour and a half to install with the biggest chunk of time involved was removing the factory bumpstops. No tires off, and no raising the truck. They bolted right to the original bumpstop holes and I have about a 1in. clearance from the stop. We took a road trip down to Louisville and felt nothing even though I-65 is not a very good road. Of course, the F-250 is a relatively stiff ride anyway. Yesterday, I went over to my camper [in storage] to hook it up with the new Timbrens installed. Here's the measurements.

Truck unhitched front wheel well=21in.,both sides
Truck hitched but without spring bars engaged=22in.
Truck hitched with spring bars engaged=21 1/4in.
Trailer front, frame to ground=20.5in.
Trailer rear=22in.
The WDH adjustment was somewhat minor. I kept my present hitch head angle, but found that where previously I was using 2 chains links, now I'm down to one [last one], and it's easier to snap up the spring bars. I know these measurements are crude, but according to this, I have returned 75% to the front axle vs. Fords 50%. I'm very pleased with this as it is much better than previous. Up to this point, I recommend the Timbrens. I can't wait to tow this to the CAT scale and check this out. Unfortunately another snowstorm looming here in southern Indiana for tomorrow. Will it ever stop. Terry

I wouldn't anguish over 1/4". You didn't say what hitch you are using. I'm thinking Reese. If you have round bars, they should be parallel to the trailer tongue. Trunnion bars should angle down slightly and not be parallel to the frame. The number of links bother me a little and again, I'm talking about the Reese system. Reese recommends a minimum five links. The purpose is to keep the bars low enough as to not interfere with the frame during turns. I would go with five links and use the ball tilt to do the weight transfer. BTW, there is often some confusion on number of links used. Five links means between where the chain attaches to the bars and the link that hooks onto the cam-up bracket, not five links dangling.

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2010 22FB(Ret)
2013 F250 XLT
I now have a Keystone Outback, but I try to help when I can.
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Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel

Hi Bob, you are correct, it is a Reese-15,000lb, 1500lb trunnion arms with friction sway. As it sits now, the trunnion arms are slightly below parallel angling downwards. I guess I should have clearer on the chain links. I have NO links dangling, I'm using the entire chain, the old configuration had 1 link dangling, so there is more room for improvement if needed. Before adding the Timbrens, I had to raise the hitch [and back of the truck] with the electric tongue jack considerably to engage the spring bars. Now it's much less, due to much less sag, I think. I'm pulling a 2102 Eagle 320 RLDS with 1400lbs on the tongue. Everything on the hitch seems to have plenty of clearance. Terry

I installed Timbrens SES units in my previous TV (that uses leaf spring system). I install Timbrens SES units in my current TV (that uses coil spring system). Love Timbrens so much, I will install in my future (replacement) TV as well. IMO, they are a great "install it and leave it" product. No worry about airing up or air leaks. And being rubber, no worry about rebound effect - like steel leafs or HD coil upgrades create. I love my Timbrens SES units as well.

To properly adjust your WDH/WDS head and spring bars with your Timbren SES install, do use a legal scale. Was told its better to raise or tilt (using washers or spacers) the head and always have a minimum 3 links of chain. If down to 1 chain link and you do a tight corner, it might over stress its tongue clamps. Thus, bend or break something. Was told having now less thank 3 chain links is best.