On a journey across upper Kinnaur, Abhinav Kaushal encounters the famous Malling Nallah, a Buddhist monastery from 1025 AD, apples from Chango, Dhar Chara Thang village, ancient caves, and the confluence of Parchu and Spiti rivers.

During The Mountain Walker road-trip to Chamba district in October 2016, we reached Bharmour without much information on what all this “Forgotten Capital” had to offer. We were fortunate, however, to have met Atul Thakur of Bharmour View, whose family has been in Bharmour for many generations. In fact, the yellow flag on top of the huge Deodar tree in the Chaurasi Temple complex is put there by members of his family.

Atul has roamed these mountains extensively and informed us about two beautiful but relatively unknown waterfalls very close to Bharmour. With exact directions and guidance on how to reach these waterfalls, Abhishek and I ventured out to check these places out on our own.

Here’s a video and various images from our visit to the Ghared and Thalla waterfalls.

Ghared and Thalla waterfalls can be reached by taking a detour at this sign board; Photo: Ameen…

As soon as I stepped out of the car at Kwar, I saw a few people in the shade, standing near a fire. There was still some warmth from the sun rays and everyone was enjoying this much-needed sunbath. It is important to soak in all the warmth because the morning sun rays reach here after 9:30 a.m., and by the looks of it, the sun rays would be disappearing soon. We could already feel the chill in the air. People were now preparing for the winters by fixing roofs, collecting grass and completing other important chores before it snowed. I could well imagine how difficult it would be to live here in the winters when there would be snow all around.

View of village Kwar as we approach from the road; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

I have seen many types of dogs in Himachal during my travel all these years. But the dogs here at Dodra are so big and strong that they can even fight with wild animals if needed, including leopards and bears. The thick coat of fur around the chest and the neck makes them look like lions or maybe a Tibetan mastiff puppy. Even though these dogs are very friendly to humans and remain very calm, one should think twice before poking their nose into these dogs’ business.

As we drove towards Chanshal Pass, the cloudy skies kept worrying us. We couldn’t afford to get snowed-in and be stuck in Chanshal valley till the weather cleared up. Luck, however, was in our favour and by the time we reached the top of Chanshal Pass, the sky had cleared up again. This also meant that we got clearer views of the amazing sights all around, with cold winds blowing in constantly from the south-west. Though my hands were getting cold while clicking the pictures, the views were just too irresistible and kept me latched on.

Panoramic view of the valley towards Dodra Kwar as seen from Chanshal Pass; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

More mountains across Chanshal Pass prod us to travel further; Photo: Abhinav Kaushal

I guess Suresh is loving it as much as I am – For these are the Himalayas…!! ;Photo:…

We are now heading off to Chanshal Pass after having breakfast (aloo paranthas with rajma) at the only dhaba a few kms from the Forest Guest House at Larot. We caught our first sight of snow on a distant mountain and the clouds have started gathering. I have a feeling that it might snow sooner than later. There is a considerable change in the vegetation also with the rough road moving through a thick alpine forest. We can feel the chill in the air as we gain altitude. It’s so cold here during daytime that even water is frozen solid. This is how winters are at heights above 2600m.