Pull the bulb closest to the battery, use a voltmeter to check to see if it is getting power to one of the pins in the socket. Make sure the ground you are using is the battery ground for the ground lead on the voltmeter.
If you have power then there is a grounding issue. Test non power pin on bulb socket for resistance to ground (shut of power to parking lights first). It should say infinite. If so chase it until you find the source of the open open. (a tedious process)

If you don't have power then you have a power issue.
Test this circuit similarly from the fuse side out to find the problem.

In re-reading it is a bit odd since you state it is the passenger side that is out rather than all of the parking lights... this is more likely to be an open circuit issue.
The open could be on either side (power/gnd).
If you do the resistance check between the lamp sockets to the battery gnd terminal
(ignition off) then one of the terminals in the bulb socket should show a very low resistance, typically an ohm or less... this means the gnd side of the circuit is ok and the fault is on the power side.
At this point you need the wiring diagram to troubleshoot further.
You would be following the circuit on the diagram looking for where the circuit divides into R & L. This is your starting point for checking for power being supplied to the passenger side (R) of the circuit. You follow the power from that point to the
next confirming that it is getting there... when it doesn't then the fault lies between the last 2 check points. Gaining access to the various checkpoints is the real work and you better be familiar with deconstruction of your vehicle to gain access.
This is where the comprehensive service manual comes in handy so that you don't break things along the way and make more work and expense for yourself.
If you don't have the technical skill level to do this then leave it to a professional. It will save you money in the end.