Surfline explains science of Trestles

All eyes this week are on the waves at Lower Trestles for the Hurley Pro, where the world's best surfers are competing on the seventh stop on the ASP World Tour.

But how do those waves actually form? What is happening beneath the ocean's surface that causes the shape to peak into a perfect skateboard ramp wave, allowing for those big-name surfers to carve the smooth face or propel above the lip into the sky?

“Anytime you have a really good wave, there's something going on under the surface of the water that is helping to shape the wave in terms of the quality of the wave when you're riding it and determining how big it can be,” said Kevin Wallis, forecast manager for Surfline.com.

Wallis will discuss the science of Trestles for surf fans who want an inside look at the dynamics that make this surf spot at San Onofre State Beach one of the best in the world. The event on Tuesday night at the Historic Cottage in San Clemente, put on by the San Onofre Foundation, is a fundraiser to help preserve this part of the California coastline.

The surf break is tucked between San Clemente and San Diego, a place where dedicated surfers must hike down trails to get to the waves. It's a spot where “the rest of the coast can be waist high, and Lowers will be shoulder-to-head high,” Wallis said.

The Hurley Pro always is set this time of year because it's when the combo swells start to hit, though forecasts show that this week will be dismal for waves. The contest is held on the best four days during the waiting period.

For everyday surfers, getting one perfect wave at Trestles can create a memory of a lifetime.

“All it takes is one wave there. One wave at Trestles is worth 20 here,” he said, pointing out of the Surfline office toward Huntington Beach Pier. “If you get lucky and pick off a set, it's pretty good. It's a pretty special wave.”

And it seems that everyone knows it.

“It's crowded,” he said with a laugh. “There's no way around it, unless it's a sneaker swell or it's offseason. There are a lot of guys in the water. There are definitely a handful of guys who surf really, really well, plenty of competent surfers, and then there are maybe a few who aren't so competent. You have to either be really aggressive or you have to get lucky. The peak can shift a bit from left to right, and if you happen to be in the right spot, you can get lucky. But it's crowd management, for sure.”

Those who want to learn more about Trestles and the science behind the surf at San Onofre State Beach can attend the lecture by Wallis starting at 8 p.m. on Tuesday at The Historic Cottage at San Clemente State Beach Campground. Tickets are $10 online or $15 at the door, seating is limited. Starting at 6 p.m., there will be a photography exhibition and reception with refreshments, as well as an auction.