wiring diagram?

Is there anybody here good enough with electronics to draw me up a wiring diagram?

All I want is to have a neck, middle and bridge pups going to it's own volume, thats it. so in other words I want vol/vol/vol then to output jack. the thing is, the middle p-bass pup, and the bridge j pup have a 4 wire conducter for series/parrall wiring, is there a way to avoid that?

Nick,
sure, I'll help you out.
To help me out, I'll need to know the pickup manufacturer. When mfrs ship 4/5 wire pickups, it's to give you the flexibility to wire in series or parallel. Which do you want?
Anyway, pm/email me and we can work on it. I like doing this stuff

Here is my plan, I just bought a EB-O pup, so I'm gonna do the billy sheehan type thing, just without the stereo output.

I'm doing this to a early 60's sunburst fender P-bass...

Just kidding!...it's a early 80's schecter P-bass, with P/J schecter brand pups. The thing is, I just looked at the P pup, and it has THREE wires...coming from each coil!!! ARRRGGGG!...

So I was thinking, since the wiring is all funky, maybe I will take the wires going to the tone pot, and put them to the output jack and bypass the tone pot, then use the tone pot as a volume for the EB pup, and then go from that pot to the output jack...Would this even work???

ok, well I can't see any wiring diagrams around for Schecter pickups. So I'll give some general advice.

I'm assuming you currently have volume/volume/tone in the bass.

If so, then you'll notice that there's a signal chain. Currently, P pup goes into neck volume pot, J pup goes into bridge volume pot. The output of the neck volume pot passes through the output of the bridge volume pot and into the tone pot then onto the jack.
You want to get your new pickup into that signal chain somehow.

As you say, one easy option is to remove the tone pot and have instead a volume pot for your new eb-0 pickup. The output from the bridge volume pot would then pass through the new volume pot on it's way out to the jack.
But that would give you a slighly confusing volume pot layout - P Vol/J Vol/EB vol.
But if that's fine with you, then that's cool.
Alternatively, you could still remove the tone pot but put the EB-0 volume pot before the P volume pot in the chain to get a more logical control layout.

ok, so that's simple enough then. The picture isn't entirely clear, but it appears you have a white wire and a bare wire? In that case the white is your hot, that would go into the volume pot and the bare wire will go to ground - probably to the back of the same volume pot as has probably been done for the other pickup volume pots.

If you look at a volume pot from the back, you'll see three lugs. The leftmost lug is the ground output: this is connected to ground, usually the back of the volume pot. The middle lug is generally where the pickup hot signal enters the volume pot, and the right lug is the output. This should help you wire up your new volume pot, the output of this pot will go to the lug on your jack where the tone pot output previously went to. If the grounding was done by connecting the back of the volume/tone pots with wire and then onto the jack, then make sure to include your new pot in this ground chain.

ok...this is easy
I just looked at it, and by the way it is wired already, all I have to do is un solder the cap. and then solder the hot from the pickup to the middle lug, then solder the ground of the pickup to the back of the pot, then solder the left most lug to the brass plate that is lining the cavity (it is a rear routed P-bass) and then I'm done!

hang on, just reread your post. Using your tone pot will work, but work slightly oddly.
Volume pots are audio taper, tone pots are linear taper. Using linear taper for volume pots will still work, but the operation (i.e. decrease in volume) won't be as smooth as with your regular audio taper volume pots. If you're only ever going to have it on/off, it won't make much difference to you.

Originally posted by 74rickbass oh ok, I think what I'll do, is use the tone pot, but change it after a little while, but is there any taper at all? or does it just go on and off?

Click to expand...

Yes, there is taper.

From the rane.com website:

potentiometer A three-terminal variable resistor. Two terminals connect to the ends of the resistor, while the third terminal is attached to a movable device that makes contact with the resistive element. The movable terminal, or slider, is capable of being positioned from one end of the element to the other. Many physical arrangements exist, with the rotary design being the most common, followed by linear motion (used in graphic equalizers, for example), all the way to tiny SMT devices. Often used as voltage dividers in electronic circuits, the input voltage is applied to the top of the resistive element, while the other end is tied to ground or a common reference and the output is taken from the slider. When the slider is positioned to the top extreme, the output equals the input, or the entire voltage; moving it to the bottom extreme gives an output of zero volts; and every possible level between is available as the slider is moved from one end to the other. The most common application uses this arrangement to control the volume of an audio device. In this manner the voltage, or electrical potential is varied, hence, a potentiometer. The taper of the pot controls the rate at which the voltage changes as the slider is moved. The taper defines the amount of resistive change as a function of travel. Several popular examples follow:
audio taper (aka A-taper): Usually 15%resistance at the 50%rotation point

linear taper (aka B-taper): Always 50%resistance at the 50%travel point

log taper: Often used as an audio taper since its 50%rotation point has 10%resistance

Click to expand...

It boils down to: audio taper pots give you lots more volume adjustment at the lower volume levels.