Got it. I'm in the experimentation stage so as I said I'm open to suggestion. I can see the point with the bars being cranked up so high - comfy for me but with a loss of precision in steering. And lets face it, it's a Reflex. So it may be back to the drawing board and a re-thinking of this bar set-up. Thanks for the feedback!

The Reflex frame is exactly the same as the TLR, and can be improved enormously by a few simple modifications. The set up you have on your bike currently, will make it more comfortable to ride, but will mean that the already poor steering/handling is a good deal worse. If you are not wanting to compete, it doesnt matter, but if you do I would suggest removing those risers and modifying top yoke to take fat bars.

The Reflex frame is exactly the same as the TLR, and can be improved enormously by a few simple modifications. The set up you have on your bike currently, will make it more comfortable to ride, but will mean that the already poor steering/handling is a good deal worse. If you are not wanting to compete, it doesnt matter, but if you do I would suggest removing those risers and modifying top yoke to take fat bars.

The risers do take fat bars, which is why I put them on. The whole setup was pirated off my other bike, a KLX250. I know you can get real analytical about this because I've been down this road before with bicycles and such. Like they say it's a game of inches (they do say that don't they?).

So my ATV bars have about a half inch more sweep and are 1" narrower than a typical trials bar. In my current situation I don't see that as a big stumbling block. I mean, I can't even ride over a stumbling block. And since I work weekends competition is probably out. But I do want to learn to ride tight stuff, etc.

And I'll probably be getting a real trials bar. 4" or 5" rise? Dunno.

The risers - hmm. With the pegs where they are the risers put me in a more natural feeling standing position - still hunched over but not as much. The pegs are slated to be lowered and when that happens I'll look at shorter risers maybe. Probably?

It all comes down to steering geometry and weight balance, doesn't it? I didn't notice the plowing when the bars were low, I do when they are up and forward. I'm going to rotate them back an inch or so and experiment - but now the front tire won't hold air. Fun with outright junk indeed!

The good news is the little sucker fires up on the first (or second) kick even when it's cold. Runs a little rich but I'm at 7000' so that's no surprise. I think it's jetted pretty well for Utah riding.

Rotated the riser back and the handlebars forward a bit. Better. I can see where a few degrees steeper head angle would improve the steering. Tuck that front wheel in a tad.

Edit: Snorkle removal's on the list. Probably help the richness. Gotta get a new front tire too. The current one looks like the OEM, and it's shot. Can a tire last 27 years?

If you take the risers off entirely and refit standard bars, control and handling will be much better. Removing the intake silencer wont do anything much other than increase induction noise. Intake restriction on the TLR is caused primarily by the flame trap, which the foam filter element fits over. TLR with altered head angle, modern forks and good rear suspension handles and steers very well indeed, and is comparable to a modern bike in easier events. The stock set up is pretty poor though, and more suited to play bike or trail riding.

We have a junior at our club thats only been riding for 10 or so months. He's knee high to a Grasshopper and makes a Sherco 125 look huge. None of us old farts can walk the lines he rides.

That is when it is so fun, to be in this sport, isn't it? I thought people were blowing smoke, when I was younger, now I know it is true. Watching the kids get onto this thing we enjoy, and watching them shake the monkeys from the trees, with the fruit even though eventually it will be on us as well...

Quote from Twinshocker. `Removing the intake silencer wont do anything much other than increase induction noise. `
You forget twinshocker, he is at 7000ft. and I know that it is a free improvement that only takes 5 minutes. This comes from the mods I did to my own reflex, riding at the same elevation.

Quote from Twinshocker. `Removing the intake silencer wont do anything much other than increase induction noise. `
You forget twinshocker, he is at 7000ft. and I know that it is a free improvement that only takes 5 minutes. This comes from the mods I did to my own reflex, riding at the same elevation.

It will make a difference at high altitude, but not as much as removing the flame trap, which will help much more.

Easy guys. I haven't gotten to the airbox yet. The last few days have been spent getting my KLR back on the road after way too long. Runs great and feels good.

So, I decided to swap my front sprocket for a 10T. I ordered one from B&J, it showed up, I removed the sprocket cover expecting to find two bolts holding the sprocket on, and I see this:

Huh? What maner of wrench gets this thing off?

The question is sort of moot for now because if you look you'll see that this front sprocket is already a 10T. Oh. Je sui bonehead. Looks like I need a bigger back sprocket, or a 9T, in which case I'll eventually have to deal with this odd nut arrangement.

Easy guys. I haven't gotten to the airbox yet. The last few days have been spent getting my KLR back on the road after way too long. Runs great and feels good.

So, I decided to swap my front sprocket for a 10T. I ordered one from B&J, it showed up, I removed the sprocket cover expecting to find two bolts holding the sprocket on, and I see this:

Huh? What maner of wrench gets this thing off?

The question is sort of moot for now because if you look you'll see that this front sprocket is already a 10T. Oh. Je sui bonehead. Looks like I need a bigger back sprocket, or a 9T, in which case I'll eventually have to deal with this odd nut arrangement.

So what's up with this?

The OE sprocket has been removed at some stage, and a smaller one fitted, which means the OE retainer no longer fits. To fit a smaller sprocket you need a spacer (still supplied by Honda) to take up the space of the OE retainer, and a circlip to take the place of the mangled mess holding your sprocket on currently. I would guess you should be able to get both items from Bob at B&J. For trials use, its worth looking at 9-44 but you may need to go larger on the rear, as you will be losing a fair amount of power if you are at 7000ft. Bob might also be able to help with a KN filter element to replace your stock flame trap/foam arrangement, which will be less restrictive and mean a little more power.

Trying to help the OP with accurate advice...............from the pics of your own TLR it seems clear you cant offer much in the way of assistance.

I am the OP of this thread. It even says so right next to my username. Once again, the whole point of this thread was to assemble a Reflex out of a bunch of scrap parts, and have fun with it. It was never meant to be a build guide. If folks want to copy what I did, great. If not, that's cool too. If others want to share their stories about having Trials fun on an old user/abuser/scrapper refugee, then that is neat also. I am still having fun with my bike, even if its in semi-retirement (abandoned on the back porch). Insulting me or my bike is not making you any friends here, pard.

__________________Work hard. Play hard.
Team Dead End. The drinking team with a Trials problem. 2-Time winner of the coveted "Best Shenanigans" award at Capt. Rick's annual BBQ.

Brewtus screwed with this post 05-08-2013 at 05:35 AM
Reason: Its early and I'm bored.