Roberto Cavalli

Sometimes, the sheer gutsiness of a personal conviction can make a collection inspiring. From the second Gemma Ward stormed onto the runwayin a long, flounced peasant skirt, tiny ethnic vest, and a bush hat bound in a print scarfRoberto Cavalli's spring presentation was a thrill almost equal to the good old days of show time Milan.

Cavalli's theme, according to his program notes, was Fashion Traveler. Translation: an eclectic throwing-together of hippie-ish trailing print skirts, ruffled cavalier shirts (worn belted at the hip as tantalizing dresses), and nineteenth century Sgt. Pepper-ish frogged military jackets.

Inevitablyfor this is MilanCavalli also embraced the mania for Africa that is doing the rounds (is it contagious?). Yet his shifts, beaded with African mask motifs, looked like more than a token gesture. And his ability to go beyond paying lip service to a trend led to some enviable moments of in-your-face decorationlike boleros or evening dresses encrusted with great spiky outcrops of coral. In these times of ladylike fashion, Cavalli is providing a missionary outreach program for rock chicks. And for that alone, he deserves a benediction.