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Quotedtwrv6
over 5 years on my first sheet of Printbite 160C bedtemps haven't hurt it one bit.
I'm pretty hard on it - I've used acetone, mek, alcohol, vinegar and scrape it with a razor blade on occasion to clean it. It just keeps working.
Yeah, I'm probably about the same number of years. On original printbite, (not +). Have printed exclusively ABS meaning constantly heating/cooling the b

I've been working on trying to start using some of the latest features in Marlin. A few weeks ago, I implemented Junction Deviation and thought I had a pretty good value of .03 with an acceleration of 600. Yesterday, I started working on linear advance. I printed several iterations of the test pattern and settled on a K setting of 1.35. This is with LA 1.5 and using TPU filament.
The printer

I ended up replacing mine with the thermocouple and thermocouple board from E3d. But I'm not actually that happy with it. The temperature still fluctuates by about +- 2C even when not heated and the printer is sitting idle. Seems thermocouple cables are very sensitive to magnetic fields and you can't run them tied to other things like your heater or fan wires which is difficult to maintain. B

Ok, that's a pretty good explanation. In my case, I doubt frame flexing is an issue with the rebuild printer. On my old printer which was an i3 variant, I could see that could be an issue. It used a single metal plate for the vertical frame and of course that was held in place using threaded M8 rod and nuts. I always felt like that was not really stable.
The rebuilt printer, though is very s

So, I see Anycubic filament advertised on eBay. From what I can tell Anycubic makes a lot of stuff from printers to print surfaces, and I guess filament. Does anyone have any experience with their ABS or PETG filament?

I've just rebuilt my i3 variant from the ground up using vslot and I'm in the process of doing calibrations. Both with the old and the new printer I'm having some issues with ringing. I've read many articles about adjusting acceleration and jerk settings, but I really want to understand how the ringing happens from a technical point of view.
Let's say I'm talking about a top solid layer where

I made my other print which was 2 1/2 hours with the old thermistor cable and didn't see any issues. I'm not ready to declare total victory yet, as I've seen cases where it could work for a print occasionally, so I'm going to print a few more to be sure.

Well, I was going to hold off on replying until I did another print later today, but last night I did 2 prints for a total of about 3 hours and didn't see a bit of instability in the hotend temperature. I changed two things, the mega board and the thermistor cable. Now I have to see which one was actually the problem. It should be pretty easy because the old thermistor cable is still there, I

Quotedc42
Sudden erratic jumps in temperature readings are usually caused by bad connections to the thermistor, or a thermistor wire touching the hot end metalwork coupled with leakage in the heater cartridge. Just possibly by a faulty thermistor.
Hi dc42,
That was my first thought, but I've got two thermistor cartridges and they show the same behavior. Unless I got two bad ones from E3D, it a

QuoteOhmarinus
Just going out on a limb here and suggest that it might be a faulty MOSFET? Or maybe a break in the solder of the MOSFET?
Check the soldering of the MOSFET and see if it came loose somewhere. I don't know how you can check if a MOSFET has gone bad, but that's where I would check. Maybe just replace the thing since it's a cheap component anyway.
If it was a PSU issue, you would fi

I've been struggling with temperature issues on my hotend for seemingly months now. While the bed temperature has always been rock solid, the hotend can either be very solid, or just wildly all over the place, sometimes triggering a thermal shutdown. I'm running an i3 variant with Ramps 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 R3, and Marlin bugfix-2.0.0.
I'm running an E3Dv6 hotend that uses the thermistor car

Quoteo_lampe
Don't worry about the coil voltage. Most people use 80% of max. current and calculate Vref accordingly.
You've registered 4 years ago, so I won't bother you with links to our Wiki or suggest 'searching' the forum
Thanks o_lampe. That answers my question just fine.

QuoteDiggrr
That is silicone vacuum tubing for automobiles. You can order it in many sizes on eBay.
There is also the printer/kit version that you were seeking : Gulfcoast Robotics
Great! Thanks Diggrr.

About a year ago I ordered a silicon heat pad for my printer and it came with a nice aluminum plate to mount it on and this length of some sort of rubberish hose or tubing that I was to cut up and use for the spacers between the heater plate and the mounting surface of my printer. The material works really well and I want to find some more of it, but the seller is gone from eBay.
I've got some

I'm curious about the max amperage we should use when setting stepper voltages. If I have a stepper motor that according to the specs is rated at 1.2A, at a rated 2V. Do we have to do any conversion on those values? I'm thinking that we run our stepper motors at 5V, or am I incorrect? If we calculate based on 5V, then that seems like the max amperage becomes .48A (using P = I * E). That does

Quoteos3dp
Checkout the excellent writeup that the_digital_dentist made about belt paths.
CoreXY Mechanism Layout and Belt Tensioning
-os3dp
Thanks for that link. That's a good writeup. @o_lampe, thanks for your response also. I think what I can do is make the motor mounts moveable in a forward/backward direction. That would allow me to adjust the tension without affecting parallelism.

I'm building a core xy printer based on the fabotatum design (no crossing belts) as in the image below. It's coming along fine but I was reading some threads here about how to adjust the tightness of the belts. I think digital_dentist showed some images that got me thinking about something.
I've always been of the assumption that for this design all the belt paths must be either perpendicular

Quoteo_lampe
Marlin will never be fixed
Do you use z-lift during retraction and UBL at the same time?
Yes, I'm sure Marlin will always be a work in progress. Kind of like my house...
I was not using z-lift during retraction. One issue I saw at the marlin github said the issue was related to UBL plus no z-lift, but even when I added some z-lift, it still behaved the same.

Thanks Dust.
I have that basic firmware and I think I've already commented the heaters, etc., as I've only ever used it for stepper motor testing in the past.
In reviewing the Marlin open issues, it seems there are some about this very behavior that seem to point to UBL as a cause. Sure enough, if I turn off UBL, then the problem seems to go away.
I'm very confused by the whole thing though b

I'm not trying to cross post, but I'm really being stymied by a problem and I didn't see this particular section before posting to the printing section.
On retract/unretract my z motors are turning which after some time causes my print to fail miserably. This started happening very suddenly a few days ago. Normal extrusion doesn't cause any issues.
Please see my original posts in this topic

Quoteo_lampe
Maybe something went wrong with hardware retraction? What, if you send G1 E-5 F### instead?
As a general advice, it's always useful to erase the EEprom before flashing a new Marlin version.
HTH
Olaf
Hi Olaf,
Doing a manual retraction still turns the z motors. In fact, doing a manual extract with a very slow speed (2 mm/s), just turns the z motors slowly. That's the same speed I

I'm completely baffled now. Tonight I tried replacing the RAMPS board, but that didn't fix the issue. I then replaced the stepper driver for the extruder and tried again, but still no go. Then I replaced the Mega board, but it's still the same. I tried adjusting the stepper voltage both up and down on the extruder, but no change.
It's like the z-axis is wired to the same connector as the ext

Ok, this is pretty weird. First of all, the basics. Prusa I3 variant, Marlin 2.0.x-bugfix (latest and version from about 3 weeks ago)., Ramps 1.4.
I've been printing happily along for quite some time now and then last night, something strange started happening. Mid print, the printer would act like the z axis stopped going up and the nozzle would end up dragging through gouging into whatever

I guess I had one other question. When printing a G26 test print, what should it look like as far as extrusion width? Should the lines look smooshed? If I'm using a .4 nozzle, how wide should the lines be in the test print?
It might be good idea to show an image of a good test print with the docs.

I've been using UBL for a long time now and I'm on the Marlin 1.1 bugfix branch.
In my configuration.h file, I have ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT defined. The default fade height is 10 mm. So once the Z is >= 10, no more bed leveling compensation will be done.
This is easy to see. If you set UBL active, then after homing raise the carriage to Z=10.0, and execute moves around the build area,

Quoteadambrum
I've been using an airtripper for years and never giver me any problems, been on four different printers now.
https://airtripper.com/1764/airtrippers-direct-drive-bowden-extruder-v3-bsp-edition/]
I know this post is from a few months ago, but I wanted to ask @adambrum about the airtripper. I've been building a CoreXY of my own for a couple years now. I've been sidetracked with o

I've determined that my max speed for extrusion of my current roll of ABS is 5.3 mm/s @245C. I determined that by marking the filament and running 50 mm, increasing the speed until the extruder started slipping.
In my configuration.h the default max feedrate for the extruder was set to 25 mm/s and my retraction speed was set to 1800 mm/m which gave me a very quick retract. If I override the de

Ok, one more question. I've determined that my maximum extrusion speed with no slipping is 5.3 mm/s at my ABS print temp of 245C. How do I convert that into mm^3/s for use in the Slic3rPE max volumetric speed in the filament settings?