FV-QR

so far so good...100 miles on break-in
a few notes thus far...
-clutch engagement is considerably lower in pedal travel than stock...
-pedal travel is stiffer than stock: ~30-50% as stated by manufacturer...
-segmented copper feramic is grabby but still offers some modulation (not on/off)...
-this disc chatters at low rpm/low speed...
-16.5lbs clatters mildly, haven't put my foot into it, but one thing i sure noticed is revmatching on downshifts is effortless...
some of these attribute will likely change for the better with time...
more to come...
edit: LSD is amazing...get one NOW...!

ive orderd mine too from james ,, very helpful guy , ill also be runing stock clutch on my turboed engine , any ideas on how mutch boost i can run on stock , tryed it on 8psi and holds fine and that was with a dual mass fitted ,

I recently purchased the stage 1+ w/16.5 lb flywheel. James was very helpful. However I do have a few questions for any of you guys who have this setup...I really just want to make sure it was installed correctly. 1. My pedal seems to engage much higher than my stock before the slave went bad? 2. The clutch noise isn't what I'd call faint, more of a loud chatter. Is this normal? Or should I take it back to the mechanic?

So get this.... I bring it by the transmission shop that put the clutch in. He says "it's probably not clutch related and that the noise is coming from the back of my transmission." it never made this noise before it only just turned 40k. I want to kill someone. When I press the pedal in the noise goes away. And when the fans come on the noise gets twice as loud. I don't know what to do. Any advice appreciated.

The noise is from going from a dual mass to single mass flywheel. A different pedal height is from improper bleeding. This kit uses the OEM pressure plate, OEM release bearing and same step height as the OEM flywheel. Some user's have bumped the idle 150-200 rpm and it seemed to help a little. Noise varies from car to car.
We spoke today and the car does not have a engagement issue.

Re: FV-QR (FourSeasonTuning.com)

Hey I was just curious to know which clutch kit would you recommend for road racing an mk4 r32 with basic mods (cai, software, exhaust) that has future plans for a turbo kit producing between 400- 450 ft lbs?

Re: FV-QR (.:R32_Honda_Slayer)

We had special flywheel made for the Sachs racing pressure plate and 4 puck disc. The flywheel cost will be similar in price to our current 02M offerings.
The unsprung 4 puck is not that forgiving,However Sachs rates it higher than their unsprung full face organic disc.

Re: FV-QR (FourSeasonTuning.com)

newbie questions....
besides chatter noise, what's the downside to a really light flywheel(eg, 9 lbs)?
what's the upside? i want to compare this to the 16lb flywheel.
i understand that stage 2/stage 3 is for high power/high torque applications,
but what are the pros and cons for a daily driver?
if i plan to add a big turbo in the future, should i just go with a stage 2/3?
thanks!

Re: FV-QR (chans)

Upside to alloy is lightweight , downside ( not shared by all) is overall driveability and strength. The heavier weight still spools well and many users prefer it to the 9 pound ones.
As for the clutch ? Something with a full face disc would be better as a daily driver. The 4 and 6 puck designs are more harsh engagement wise, but offer more higher Torque ratings due to the friction material and design.
Here are a few choices, depending on your power.

Re: FV-QR (FourSeasonTuning.com)

Sachs does not release their numbers on stock kits. I would not go with the kit that you asked about unless your budget can not handle another $60 for a kit w/ a sprung hub disc instead of a solid. The solid disc was designed for use with the dual mass flywheel. I quoted some info from page 1 that explains this.
Your profile says 1.8T these kits use the same parts,but the 1.8T has a 6 hole crank flange and the VR6 has a 10 hole, so the flywheels are different.STAGE 1+ KIT

Quote, originally posted by FourSeasonTuning.com &raquo;

The solid hub disc's are used with dual mass flywheel from the factory, the disc material is riveted/bonded to a segmented steel material ( where the sprung hub below has a larger steel backing more surface material for the friction material to bond to). This solid type is the OEM disc from your car.

Sprung Hub steel backed disc's were designed for maximum burst and rotational strength. The sprung hub's six springs lessen shock of engagement, Sprung hub discs (similar design) are also used on the Audi S4/RS4 (2000-2004 era) also 240MM and a 6 spring hub, even with a dual mass flywheel. The RS4 with a factory modified LUK pressure plate and stock S4/RS4 sprung hub disc was rated for 380HP. The sprung hub disc is also used from the factory on almost all single mass clutch setups.The most used street type disc is a sprung hub for daily driving.
Enclosed is the Kit with the Clutchnet sprung hub disc.http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=597