the appetizer:

Clam Stewwith ProseccoZuppa di Vongoleal Prosecco

Makes 4 main-course servings

Prosecco is a dry, mildly sparkling white wine from the Veneto region. I use it here because, in all honesty, it was the only white wine I had on hand one day when I was making this simple, classic southern Italian stew. It turned out to be a perfect match for the clams, enhancing their briny sea flavor without overwhelming it. I have, at various times, tried to soup up this recipe by adding shallots, chopped fresh tomatoes, mixed fresh herbs, or even diced pancetta. But I always come back to this most basic and, in my opinion, most delicious version. Here, less is truly more; the fewer ingredients you use, the more the flavor of the clams will shine through.

In a large skillet or saute pan, warm the garlic and chili peppers in the 1/3 cup olive oil over medium heat until the garlic just starts to sizzle. Do not let it brown or it will become bitter.

Increase the heat to medium-high and add the Prosecco (it will foam briefly) and the clams and toss. Cover the pan and steam the clams for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they open. Taste the broth and add salt if necessary—this will depend on the saltiness of the clam liquor. Turn off the heat and stir in the parsley. Discard any clams that failed to open.

Arrange the bread at the bottom of 4 shallow bowls, dividing it evenly. Divide the clams and broth evenly among the bowls, ladling them over the bread. Drizzle with your best olive oil.