In search of a better quality of life, fulfilling our dreams to see the world and provide ourselves and young children with invaluable experiences, we sold our home and possessions in London to begin our journey of a lifetime.
Here we will share our tips, stories, successes and failures, not only for our families and friends, but also to assist those who may have similar adventures in mind. We hope also to inspire those who relish the idea of travelling to newer and unfamiliar pastures but do not know how and those who require some evidence it can be done.

History

18 November 2010

MY most vivid memory of Argentine football goes back to the 1978 World Cup finals (I’m ignoring those long-haired moustachioed players from the ’74 tournament) and all that paper being thrown by fans like confetti. I’d never seen anything like it.

Never did I believe that 32 years later I’d be sitting in the same ‘Monumental’ stadium as those finals, where Argentina triumphed over Holland 3-1.

Little has changed. The supporters are as passionate as I remember watching them on television. The River Plate-Boca Juniors clash, known as ‘Superclassico’, on November 16 was nothing short of a carnival.

River won 1-0 with a headed goal early in the second half, but what happened on the pitch – for this neutral at least – was almost a side-show to the hysteria and colourful display of support that surrounded it.

Although there are six teams in Argentina’s capital city – and several more from the suburbs – River and Boca is, by a long stretch, the greatest rivalry of all.

River are nicknamed “The Millionaires” and Boca, from the rough part of town known as La Boca and a team founded in 1904 by five Italian immigrants, the “Manure Handlers”. As you probably gathered, River Plate, formed in 1901, is considered upper class and Boca the poor relations.

Both sides are struggling right now, though. But their history is deep. Each side has achieved massive success. Blue and yellow Boca once had Diego Maradona, Carlos Tevez and Gabriel Batistuta. The great Alfredo Di Stefano, Hernan Crespo, Daniel Passarella, Mario Kempes and Batistuta all plied their trade for the red and white of River (football buffs will be familiar with these names).

There’s a lot of pride at stake and, traditionally, the winners cover the city in banners the next day to revel in their victory. Sometimes these games end in riots (though, thankfully, not on this occasion).

As a matter of precaution, however, after the match we were detained in the stadium by police for nearly an hour while the Boca fans went home (this is usual practice, where the away side leave first).

Although the game was far from scintillating, I could see why on The Observer website in a list of the top 50 sporting events you should see before dying, a River-Boca derby came out on top - above a Wimbledon tennis final, World Cup final, world heavyweight boxing championship fight and the men’s Olympic 100m final.

So when the opportunity came my way, I couldn’t possibly resist.

Originally, the match was set for November 7. But when the former Argentine president died shortly before that date, the game was postponed from a Sunday afternoon to a Tuesday evening.

But even though the midweek fixture made it more difficult for fans to attend, the stadium was practically full (65,000 capacity), the only empty seats being in the Boca section which, compared to the allocation for the home fans, was tiny.

I sat with the River supporters. Seats were like wooden park benches (painted white) – no luxury. Getting there, though, required me going through about five security stops.

But it seemed that those being frisked weren’t the ones who posed any threat. The notorious hooligan elements from each side were kept at opposite ends of the stadium, in standing ‘cages’. Barbed wire decorated the fenced areas in front of them.

After River took the lead, Boca fans launched fireworks, flares and hurled smoke bombs (at one point I couldn’t see anything as a mist covered the stadium). When the game ended, they tossed plastic seat covers like frisbees. Riot police with shields and firemen were on hand.

The stadium was rocking, though. River fans sang, banged drums and jumped all night long. The noise levels were close to deafening. The atmosphere was pulsating even if the football wasn’t.

My favourite moment was watching a colossal banner in the River section being lowered and raised before the start, at half time and when the match ended. It was so enormous it filled almost one end of the stadium and, with fans holding and moving it, the shimmering banner seemed to take on a life of its own.

River were deserving winners and celebrated like they’d won the World Cup. I liked their No. 18, Erik Lamela, who had a sweet left foot, and the No. 37, Roberto Pereyra, for his dribbling skills. They also had a well-known old-stager, Ariel Ortega, once a great player, who came off in the second half.

Unfortunately, players fell to the floor too easily, as they do almost everywhere, but the referees took a firm line, often dishing out yellow cards for ‘simulation’.

No-one stood out like a young Maradona. To have seen him, as a teenager, in this match would have been something to cherish.

I wasn’t expecting that much, though. To have been a part of this historical fixture was enough.

Abramsfamilyworld travel tip:I booked my seat through the company Tangol.com. They purchase and supply the tickets, collect you from and return you to your residence and escort you to the stadium. You pay extra – quite a bit extra, actually – for the service. But for a hassle-free night it’s probably worth it. However, if I were to go again – and I’m considering it – I think I’d buy at the stadium on the day.

Is it safe enough to take children? I didn’t take Zenchai because of the hour and I didn’t know what to expect. But if the chance came to see this fixture again, I’d take him along. It was safe with the home fans and there were many other children around. I wouldn’t have to worry about shielding his ears from abusive language, because he doesn’t speak Spanish. I witnessed nothing out of hand in my section, anyhow.

Everyone seemed pleasant and in good spirits. Alcohol is banned in the stadium (as it is in Britain). I didn’t see anyone acting drunk (which I can seldom say back home).

It was well worth the expense, but you can’t really put a price on an experience like this.

31 October 2010

The man at the entrance asked me if I wanted a map. ‘A map?’ I thought. I was there only to see the burial place of Eva Peron (otherwise known as Evita). How hard could it be to find?

So we walked in and I suggested we ask some tourists the way. But then, after taking a few more steps, thinking ‘it has to be around here somewhere’, we realised the enormity of our task. The 54,843 square metre perimeter became more apparent. So I marched back to the entrance to purchase (for about £1) a map.

We found her resting place in the end, but it wasn’t easy. This really is an extraordinary cemetery (the first public one in Buenos Aires – opened 1822) by any standards. It’s practically a maze and was like walking through ancient Rome for all the monuments and pillars. But be prepared to be blown away by the detail and size of some of the tombstones.

Peron’s grave was relatively modest, but, unsurprisingly, there are always crowds of people by it. She was a remarkable woman and only 33 when she died in 1952 from cancer (she was the first Argentine to receive chemotherapy). She received a state funeral. The country came to a virtual standstill.

Before we visited her shrine, though, we’d located another person of interest, former boxer Luis Firpo. He is one of only two prominent sportsmen buried here. His burial spot is marked by a large statue of him.

Firpo, nicknamed “Wild Bull of The Pampas”, fought Jack Dempsey for the world heavyweight championship in New York in 1923. The contest, won by Dempsey in two rounds, went down in history as one of the wildest. Dempsey knocked down Firpo seven times before himself being knocked out of the ring. Dempsey hauled himself back into the ring before knocking out the Argentine. But Firpo received instant fame for his heroics.

There are several former Argentine presidents buried here as well as famous writers, musicians and even Napoleon’s grandchild, who died when only six days old.

If you are ever in Buenos Aires and, more specifically, Recoleta, make a trip here a priority. Take your children also. Zenchai really enjoyed it. Entrance is free. It is open from 7am-6pm every day.

19 October 2010

We were only on the island of Tobago four nights, not long enough to see it for all its beauty and history.

I admit to not knowing a great deal about the island except that it was linked with neighbouring Trinidad and that footballer Dwight Yorke and boxer Claude Noel came from there (the former has a stadium named after him and the latter a major highway).

Here are 10 more facts you may not know about Tobago.

1. Since the 1500s it has changed hands 31 times with Britain, France and Holland all at some stage claiming power.

2. It was the slave trade, from 1763 until 1807, which accounted for the largely West African (in origin) population.

3. The island is 22 miles long and only eight miles wide, but has more than 110 species of birds (we had several hummingbirds on our porch).

4. It has many fantastic beaches. While we didn’t visit them all, we particularly liked Englishman’s Bay – practically deserted, but stunning and with perfect water temperatures. You can understand why Tobago was the setting for Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe.

5. Goat racing is a sport here and has been in the village of Buccoo since 1925. Each goat has a man who runs alongside them, to make them run faster. I am assured the participating goats are particularly well treated, even though this is something of a favourite meal on the island.

6. The capital, known as Scarborough, has a population of around 25,000.

7. A flight to Trinidad (around 21 miles) takes around 20 minutes.

8. A breakfast favourite is known as ‘doubles’ and is a saffron-coloured soft bread which is served with a type of curried chickpeas and often comes with hot sauce (optional). Delicious!

9. Just south of the island is the largest recorded brain corral in the world – hence the reason many visitors come for diving.

10. The speed limit is 30mph throughout the island – but no-one sticks to it.

27 September 2010

Zenchai likes to relate to what he reads. He once had a book where one of the characters lived in a lighthouse. Since then he had asked to visit a lighthouse.

When we got to West Palm Beach we discovered there was one close by and open for visitors.

I took him along to the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum the first chance I had. The tour takes about half an hour. It’s inexpensive ($6 for the two of us). But Zenchai left a little disappointed. The reason? You have to be 4ft to go up the spiral staircase to the top of the lighthouse.

After trying as best I could to break the crushing news, explaining it was a US Coastguard rule and couldn’t be broken, Zenchai had to be content with entering the lighthouse only. But to be honest there isn’t much to see inside at the base of the staircase.

However, the guides (all volunteers) are friendly and knowledgeable and the museum is small but interesting. Zenchai and I waited in the museum for several minutes before the tour started. And I was proud of the way Zenchai, without prompting and in the company of adults, asked the guide his questions as we walked through the lighthouse grounds.

They were sensible questions also. Why does a lighthouse have only two windows (four, in fact)? Why is the road leading to the lighthouse called Captain Armour’s Way? Why is the lighthouse red?

For those interested in the answers, here they are. Lighthouses are all different, but this one had four windows, facing east, south, north and west. The road was named after Captain Armour, who was the longest-serving captain of the lighthouse. The lighthouse is red because that was the original colour of the brick and matching paint was used.

There is much more to learn and see. For instance, just outside the lighthouse is a Banyan tree under which a house was discovered by archaeologists (they were digging when we were there and had found a cistern). These trees are enormous, grow from one big root but, as the branches reach out, air roots head into the ground, giving the appearance there is more than one tree. If not kept under control, a single Banyan can grow to the size of a football stadium!

On the way out, we were shown a number of different fruit trees on the grounds, a Seminole canoe, an old bell and there’s a story to go with practically everything on display.

Zenchai and I were kindly guided to a nearby nature park by the tour guide after we departed and spent the rest of the day doing other things.

Hours later, though, when collecting Jamie from Hippocrates, Zenchai recounted his day to his mum and I was amazed how much he recalled and in what detail. It served to prove to me that children absorb information even when they don’t look especially attentive or interested and that the excursion a success.

16 September 2010

Fascinating, fun, but definitely not cheap at $15 per adult (children under five are free). Beware the added $5 fee for car parking, which we thought was a bit cheeky (there ought to be signs to that effect when you enter the car park).

To visit Greenfield Village (next door) or the Imax Theatre will incur an extra (and chunky) entry fee. There is also a Ford Rouge Factory tour, but this is separate, too.

There are diners and shops in the museum, all carefully placed to help you spend more money (I guess I am spoiled by the free museums of London). Costs can really add up at this place. Their best deal is the museum and village combination – at $32 per adult! Ouch.

However, it’s not all bad. In fact, the museum is highly impressive. The collection of cars and airplanes is vast. In addition there are homes, machinery and exhibits depicting the industrial revolution. The museum is the largest of its kind in the United States.

I found the civil rights exhibition one of the most interesting, while Zenchai had great fun in a play area (he went back three times!) as well as sitting in a vintage car (his favourite moment, but he is a car fanatic) and giant combine harvester. One can easily spend a day here, probably two. In fact, for the cost, you’d be foolish not to.

Some of the outstanding pieces in the exhibition include John F Kennedy’s presidential limousine and the bus in which Rosa Parks, a civil rights activist and known as the “mother of the freedom movement”, famously refused to budge when asked by the driver to give up her seat to a white passenger.

The bus, like almost every other item on display, has been preserved in immaculate condition.

Opening hours for the museum and village 9am-5pm seven days a week.Location: 20900 Oakwood Blvd, Dearborn, Michigan