Sorry to hear you had a "bad week" - last week. Hopefully, this week is going much better for you. When "up for some air", appreciate your future picture. I'm sure maddog appreciates your future diginal picture as well.

I noted where the spring is as well as the only bolt that holds the thing on. I couldn't take it apart for the pic so I'll do my best to explain the picture.

The sliding door is completely open in the pic (open is to the left in this pic), you can see the roller to the left of the photo. The stop only has 1 bolt and is kind of a sandwich of parts. Open and close the door a couple of times and watch where the INSIDE roller contacts the spring on the INSIDE. What should happen is that when the inside roller reaches a certain point, it should roll over the hump in the spring and be caught between the end and the hump in the spring, keeping the door open unless you give it a good pull. Open and close it a few times and watch the spring...even when it doesn't work, you'll see the spring flex a bit as the inside roller goes past the hump.

BTW - Don't go looking for a coil spring in there, you won't find one...its a "wave spring". Basically a piece of spring steel about 4 inches long and maybe 1/2" wide. The outside piece is NOT the spring, its in the middle of the sandwich.

The problem is...the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!

To do this you need to remove the stop. There's only 1 bolt holding it on. Look and the whole thing carefully before you take the bolt out as one you take it out, the whole thing will likely fall apart - if it doesn't, wiggle it a little bit. To remove it, close the door till the roller is out of the stop assembly and then remove the bolt. The assembly will come apart in 2 pieces: the piece in the photo and the spring behind it. Once you get the spring out, put just the spring in a vise and use pliers and increase the bend in the hump. (You may come up with a better way, that's just how I did it) Then you put it back together and you're done. Be patient, it may take you a couple of tries to get it just right and its a pain to get back in. That;s why its important to take a good look at it BEFORE you take it apart.

I hope my explanation as well as the accompanying pic help it make sense. Remember...when you're putting it back together, make sure that you have the door 1/2 way closed, just like when you took it apart. Now that you know where the stop is and what it looks like, I think you'll be able to look at it and figure out how to fix it. Good luck - feel free to post questions. :shades:

Many thanks for providing a picture and in text format, describing the process to appply this mod - to other 2007+ uplander / montana vans with manual sliding doors.

Your statement of "the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!" is RIGHT ON.

Tonight, I removed the protection cover plate and removed the spring (which is a flat small ruler shape piece of steel with a small hump in its middle). As instructed, I used my bench vice and hand held vice grips and created a larger hump (like 1/3 moon shape) in the spring. Re-installed both parts (spring and protection cover) and it works great. The larger hump holds the door open - when van is parked on a slight incline. WOW!!! Such a simple fix. Actually, it's such a simple fix, anyone with a 10mm or 3/8" box socket with 2" extension could implement themselves.

Many, many thanks for advising how I can apply this mod - to our 2009 Montana's manual sliding doors. And my wife thanks you as well. As she loads / unloads our disabled child, she'll no longer get accidentally nailed by our van's manual sliding doors (that have very poor factory door stop settings).

i bought my 05 relay used. it has had a vibration since i bought it almost 3 years ago. it vibrates the most between 45-65mph. it is also worse while accelerating than when coasting. I've had the brakes changed. I've had the tires changed twice. I've had both wheel bearings changed. I read on this forum a lot about rotars, I don't think those have been changed. One strange thing was noticed today while having the brake pads changed. There is a small screw in one of the 3 little holes on the front driver side rotar, but there is not one on the passenger side. Should that screw be there?Could the screw or the rotars be causing the vibration while driving?Has anyone else had this vibration that seems incurable?Please give me feedback.

I am not an expert but I have owned several cars over my lifetime. Rotors usually have to do with braking problems. They cause an uneveness in braking when you try to come to a stop. They can usually be shaved but sometimes they need to be replaced. An honest mechanic will tell you.

In my experience, vibration at higher driving speeds has usually been from tires that are out of balance, especially on front wheel drive vehicles.

Also, sometimes tires become scalloped (uneven tread wear around the circumference) from lack of proper rotation. The only fix for this is to replace the scalloped tires and then rotate as shown in your manual.

The screw that you refer to is not the source of your problem...you actually don't even have to replace it when you do the brake job. The lug nuts hold the rotor in place, the little screw is likely there to hold things together while it goes down the assembly line.

Bad Rotors only typically cause vibration when you are braking. you don't mention mileage, but I'd be suspect that a strut was bad and your wheel is bouncing..

My previous van had a bad vibration when going above 75 kms (45 mph). Its tires were 5 years old and to my surprise, 3 of its tires has shifted belts. Thus, we replaced all 4 tires. Vibration instantly gone.

As as suggestion, do get the tires inspected / re-balanced. If tires are ok, then get its brake rotors detailed inspected as well...

Uplander runs negative camber and no tow-in meaning that the wheels are wider apart on the bottom than on the top. This causes strange tire wear on the inside of the tires. Remove the tires from the rims and put them on the other side of the van so the outside of the tire becomes the inside. I suspect that GM did this to make the van tires wider to help prevent rollover.

Actually.... the tires (famous Firestone brand) tires were replaced because their inner belts shifted. One could feel the tire's surface with one's hand and feel its inner shifted belts. It was like feeling a bold head - after it got a bad goose egg accident. re: Lump, lump. We replaced all 4 tires and our Safari van ran as smooth as silk. Expecially on the smooth higway.

I have had recent problems with the door chimes going off on my van. It started on the passenger sliding door, the mechanic replaced the sensors on each inside door. Happened again the other day, he reset the computer and so far so good. He stated that the diagnostics that he runs does not pinpoint the exact problem so he is unsure how to proceed. Other than disabling the doors so that they will be totally manual, if this is a possibility, are there any other suggestions/solutions to this problem. I like the van and would perfer to have the electric doors but don't know what else to do about the chime issue. Thanks for the input

I have a 2005 Terraza and I have loved it - until the last year or so. The passenger sliding door never really worked that well and would sometimes not recognize the door was closed and locked and I would get the door chime problem. Then finally the cable for the sliding mechanism was hanging out of the door. When you pushed the button, you could hear the motor trying to work, but nothing really happened. So I took it in to the dealer and they replaced the whole motor (for about $700) - ouch.

That was about 6 months ago. Then about 2 weeks ago the cable was hanging out again, but after hitting the door close button a few times it went back into the door. But this time when you push the button to open/close the door you just hear one small click sound and then nothing happens. So I have a manual door and I would actually be fine with that if it weren't for the infernal door chime. For a week or so after we saw the cable, I had the door closed and it was fine, we just used the driver side door. However this week, my daughter accidentally opened the bad door and now it is a constant ding, ding, ding....

The door chime continues even after the engine is off and the key is removed from the ignition. It will stop if you open the bad door though. So at least I figured that out so it didn't drain my battery while I try to find a solution. Also of note, there is no message in the dash regarding the door being open, just the dinging of the chime.

I took it to the dealer again and they charged me $100 just to tell me that it had a bad module that was going to cost another $500 to fix. I can't afford to keep throwing money at the car. I don't mind the manual door if I can just stop the door chime. I don't even mind losing the warning chimes for all the sensors if it will just SHUT UP. HELP!!!

I would like to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance. In order to start the process I will need your complete contact information (including full name, mailing address and phone number), VIN, current mileage and the involved dealership sent to me in an email. Also, could you please provide a brief description of the problems you are experiencing as well as your screen name used on the forum?

I have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 and have had a similar problem. If we close the passenger side power sliding door with the manual option then it doesn't chime, but if we use the power door with the power option then it randomly chimes while I'm driving. We never know when it'll go off and so far with one exception we can park the van and manually open and close the door then the chimes stops. One occasion the chimes didn't stop even when I turned the van off and removed the key from the ignition. I took immediately to the dealer and they fixed for a little while but then it did it again bit turned off when we parked and manually opened and closed the door.

I read somewhere that the pins may not be hitting the sensor in the middle and that could be causing the problem so you need to just move the pins down or the sensor up to fix it i look into that on Monday.

Let me know if you've found any way to fix this issue, please. I have little kids and it's hard for them to shut the manual door so we really need the power door minus the infernal chiming.

The power doors can be repaired if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h,ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wire wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is a switch in the door at the rear door latch, it can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done.

The power doors can be repaired and the CHIME will stop, if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h,ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wire wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection on the back of the plunger box, this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is a switch in the door at the rear door latch, it can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done. I had to remove the door panel to get to this switch.

The power doors can be repaired if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h,ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wire wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is a switch in the door at the rear door latch, it can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done.

The power doors can be repaired and the Chime will go away, if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h-ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection this will bypass the bad connections in the plunger box, this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is also a switch in the door that can get crud in it and not work. it is in the door in the rear latch. It can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done. I had to remove the door panel to get to this switch.

Has anyone had experience with this message, every time I start my 2005 SV6 the digital display shows the AWD drive disabled. I am afraid of the cost to take it to the dealer. Any ideas, experiance. This has been going on for about a month.

neuman5,I would recommend at least speaking with a dealer about your concerns. Let them know you are worried about costs and see what information you can get up front. If you email me your VIN I can look into recall information. I look forward to speaking with you.ChristinaGM Customer Service

We have an 07 Uplander with the power sliding door on the passenger side. I'm going to lose my mind driving this van. The alarm will not stop going off. We've had it in 3x in the past month...to a CHEVY DEALERSHIP! And it's still not working. We have turned the automatic door off and used it manually but still have the alarm problems. Yesterday I had to get out and slam the door 8 times and still ended up driving to work with the alarm going off. Has anyone had success in getting this repaired?? They've installed a new actuator...didn't help. Now they claim it's a door handle issue - it's broke inside because we have to slam the door all the time! I love the space this van offers for kids, hockey gear and dogs, but I will not drive another!

On my old '05 Uplander, whenever the door would bounce back open or the chime would start, I'd shut the car down, wait a couple seconds, and start it back up. Also, something that seems so minor it shouldn't work, but it always did on mine, was that the six or eight brass-looking squares on the body sill would get yucked-up and rubbing some dry Brillo or the like on them, then wiping away the dust, would make the door shut right. Sounds crazy, but the door got a good connection that way. Good luck.

I just replaced the original equipment spark plugs and wires on our '06 Uplander with 105,300 miles. The engine rolls forward quite easily, but holding it forward is the key to this procedure. I did not have a ratcheting strap available to roll the engine forward & hold it in position. I was, however, able to use a long pry-bar to move the engine forward and held it there with some heavy duty bailing wire. In order to have better access to the rear plugs, I removed the coil pack and mounting plate. Once those were out of the way, I could stand on a short step ladder and lean over the engine and get to the rear plugs. After new AC Delco Iridium plugs and Duralast wire set were in place, everything went back without any glitches, for less than $80.00.