Author
Topic: LG Front Load Washer LE Error code (Read 112595 times)

Yes you are correct, except do not remove the connector from the main board. Insert your meter probes into the end that the wires come out of. You are testing for voltage to the board, and the return voltage so it needs to be plugged in.

Yes you are correct, except do not remove the connector from the main board. Insert your meter probes into the end that the wires come out of. You are testing for voltage to the board, and the return voltage so it needs to be plugged in.

after spending the weekend looking for my multimeter, I ran thru the first few tests.

I got between 10 and 11 vdc between the white and gray cables with the power on... so that seems OK.

When I switched the probes to blue and gray, the reading would start at 10vdc and, as the drum (manually) turned, would go down to around 5 and back up to 10 as it slowed down. I hope this is what you mean by pulsing.

For red and gray, it was slightly different. The reading started at 0vdc but went to 5 as the drum turned. Then I moved the PWB slightly (you have to kind of flip the thing forward to get the multimeter probes into the wires) and the reading went up to 10vdc and acted like the blue and gray connectors (10vdc and then down to 5 as the drum turns, then back up to 10)

I did a continuity test on the 4 wires and they all seemed OK... it just seemed odd that I moved the cable slightly and the reading went from 0 to 10vdc. I'm pretty sure I had the probes stuck well in to the connectors. I tried moving the PWB again, but I couldn't get it back to 0.

Do you think this indicates a problem with the sensor assembly? Thats one part I haven't replaced.

One other thing: Initially, I tried to put the first probe in place by pushing on the washer's display for a little leverage. When I did this, the beeper would make two quick beeps like it was detecting something. Does this mean anything to anyone?

You can also verify the wiring to the motor by measuring between any two wires on the red motor connector with blue, red, and yellow wires. You should read between 5 and 15 ohms between any two wires

I did the above test and it returned appropriate readings

I went back and did the first tests again, and I'm not happy with the red/grey vdc test.

Just so it's clear, here's what I did:

i) turned power offii) disconnected the red/blue/gray/white connectoriii) inserted the probes into the red/gray slots and ensured they were touching the metaliv) re-connected the connector to the main PWBv) switched on power

Sometimes when I do this, the multimeter reads between 0 and 1 vdc. Then, when I spin the drum, it goes up to 5 and then back down as the spin stops.

If I repeat the steps i and v, it immediately goes up to 10vdc and then down to 5 when I spin the drum. It's not consistent though. I'm not 100% sure, but I think that if I leave power off for a couple of minutes, it starts at 0vdc but if turn power off and on fairly quickly, all looks good.

Am I correct in thinking that this red/blue/gray/white connector ultimately goes to the stator sensor?

That part has already been replaced, but I do see something else at partstore.com - the "sensor assembly" which unfortunately has no picture

Any idea what this is and whether it's worth replacing? Any way to prove it?

The fact you are getting various voltage readings out of the same plug is confusing as electricity doesn't usually just come and go. Based on your first findings, I would have said that you need to replace the sensor board, but then you said in your second to last post that it was already changed. This is different information than your first post which stated you changed the control board and stator so now I am not sure what has been changed in this circuit. Given the results of your measurements, the sensor board is not reading correctly and if you are seeing it on your meter and assuming the measurements are taken correctly, the control board will see the same anomaly and show an error. One last check to make on the board would be to measure resistance between blue and white, then between red and white at the control board connector while it is unplugged and the machine is off. You should measure 10K Ohm's. If you don't the sensor board is bad. Also, I am not sure what that second part you located goes to. It may be something specific to your model and that is why I do not find it in the manual I am referencing.

I'm wondering whether I should change 6501FA2462C as well. This looks like a set of cables running into a black box. I'm thinking though that this is to do with sensing whether the washer is level. Could that possibly be a cause of LE? Or make the machine not spin on diagnostics?

The LE error is pretty specific to a motor lock condition as monitored by the sensor board, and given the only parts associated with that failure would be the motor itself, the sensor board, the main board, and the harness, I would stick with those items. It is possible for such things as a worn bearing or something stuck between the basket and drum to give the error, but those things generally will only flag the error after some use and not right away. Since you are getting the error very quickly in use, one of those four components is the likely problem. If you have replaced the sensor and the control board, I would look very closely at the wiring harness because the variations you were getting in your measurements over the weekend suggests something is not connected properly giving intermittent readings. Check the harness including under the taped sections and look for anything that seems out of place. As the photo shows in my original post, it only takes a very small bit of damage to cause problems.

The LE error is pretty specific to a motor lock condition as monitored by the sensor board, and given the only parts associated with that failure would be the motor itself, the sensor board, the main board, and the harness, I would stick with those items.

Thanks... I'll see if I can remove all the wiring and visually inspect it

One last check to make on the board would be to measure resistance between blue and white, then between red and white at the control board connector while it is unplugged and the machine is off. You should measure 10K Ohm's. If you don't the sensor board is bad.

Can you clarify this for me? Are you still referring to the 4-wire connector with red/blue/white/gray wires?

I set my multimeter to 20k Ohms and stuck the probes in (with the machine off). The reading was 4.95 for blue/white and 5.00 for red/white.

You said it should be 10K Ohms. Am I just misunderstanding how to read the multimeter or is this another avenue to explore?

The specification is 10K ohms measured between each wire which is the hall effect sensor itself. Are you reading 5K ohms or 5 ohms between each wire? Either way, they sound like low ratings since even 5K would be a 50% variance in what the engineers are expecting.