Great Gatherings: Classic Holiday Dinner

Walking into a richly appointed dining room for a formal but intimate holiday dinner is like reading a well-loved passage from Charles Dickens. There is a resonance that transcends time. As in the myriad film versions of A Christmas Carol, tradition can be interpreted and reinterpreted in infinite ways—as here, in a fresh and beautiful variation. But it never needs to be totally reinvented. That’s why it has become a tradition: It works.

This glowing room was designed by Krissa Rossbund, who as Traditional Home senior style editor is a discerning observer of design trends. Over the Christmas holidays, however, Krissa goes traditional all the way: “We’re all so busy this season that a sit-down dinner with all of its formal niceties is a lovely treat. Here we dialed into an atmosphere of adult elegance rather than glitziness.”

A menu of updated Yankee yuletide favorites has as its pièce de résistance a roast crown of lamb that declares “Behold Christmas!” Although she chose black accents to lend sophistication to the tablescape, Krissa didn’t want it to look heavy. “That’s why the black-and-white salad plates have a toile pattern, and the chargers are patterned in black lace,” she says.

Like a spectacular gift in understated wrapping, the room is enveloped in a lacy gray Scalamandré wall covering. “Gray is masculine,” Krissa observes, “but lace is feminine. I like the interplay.” In another nod to tradition, she chose curvaceous coupe-style champagne glasses rather than the slim flutes popular in recent years. (Think 1940s screen legend as opposed to post-millennial sylph.) Vintage silverware also resounds as tried-and-true. Krissa sought to avoid “overthinking” the look. Beauty and conviviality need no explanation, she points out. “They speak for themselves.”

A tree and wreath by Natural Decorations are decorated in classic colors with ribbon and ornaments from Frontgate. “Shalimar” wallpaper is from Scalamandré. “Wing” chair and “Tic Tac” table are from Baker. Thomas Paul’s reindeer pillow fabric is from Duralee.

Mingling molasses and clove, this deep-dish dessert is an alternative to traditional pumpkin pie. Cutout pastry leaves embellish the pie top. Serve with maple-laced whipped cream subtly sprinkled with just a hint of cinnamon.

Preparation is the key to relaxed entertaining. Baker’s “Moderne” credenza is set and ready for dessert with decorative feather trees and a “Derby Panel” teapot and cups. “Fluted Spire” lamps are from Circa Lighting.

A version of this deviled egg recipe was served at Thomas Jefferson’s home, Monticello. In Jefferson’s day, anchovies were laid across the top of the egg. We’ve incorporated them into the filling for a slight hint of briny sea saltiness.

Spoon or pipe yolk mixture back into cooked egg whites. Tuck parsley leaf into wide end of egg for garnish. If desired, sprinkle with pepper. Cover; chill up to 24 hours before serving. Makes 12 servings.

Chestnut Stuffing was a favorite at Theodore Roosevelt’s holiday feasts at his Sagamore Hill family home. Enjoy this updated version.

Order the crown of lamb from the butcher at least a week beforehand. Ask him to trim, french,* and tie the racks for you, reserving the trimmings. If there are no trimmings available, substitute 4 ounces of ground lamb.

Preheat oven to 400°F. To make stuffing: Place corn bread in large bowl; set aside. In skillet melt butter. Add onion, celery, fennel, and chestnut meat to skillet, toss well to mix. Cook until vegetables are just tender, about 10 minutes. Add vegetable mixture to corn bread; toss well. Stir in 3 tablespoons each of sage and thyme. Add egg; mix well. Add enough chicken broth to moisten. Transfer to 2-quart baking dish. Cover with foil. Set aside.

Place roasting pan in oven while preparing roast. Place roast on cutting board. Rub roast inside and outside with olive oil. In small bowl combine garlic, 1 tablespoon thyme, 2 teaspoons sage, and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Press mixture into both sides of crown. Cover bones with aluminum foil.

Set roasting pan over two burners set on medium heat. Deglaze pan with 2 cups Shiraz, scraping up brown bits from pan. Simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Strain sauce into bowl. Whisk in mustard and vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

*Tip: To “french” a rack of lamb, make a cut on the fat side, perpendicular to ribs, about 2 inches down from rib ends. Cut through fat down to rib bones. Stand rack on end and push small knife through
flesh between each rib, level with first cut. Turn rack fat side down. Score thin membrane covering rib bones. Push against rib bones from fat side of rack until they pop through membrane. Cut away strip of meat from rib ends. Trim excess fat from fat side. Reserve meat and fat trimmings for sauce.

**Tip: Use a favorite cornbread recipe, making enough to equal 8 cups or prepare two 8-ounce packages of corn muffin mix in two greased 8x8x2-inch baking pans according to package directions. (Each package will yield 6 cups cornbread.) Let stand, loosely covered, at room temperature overnight, or spread in shallow baking pan and bake in 300°F oven 10 to 15 minutes, stirring once or twice. Bread will dry and crisp more as it cools.

***Tip: To prepare a crown roast using two 8-rib racks of lamb, make a shallow cut in flesh between each rib bone so that rib racks will curve easily into proper shape. Bend each rack into semicircle (meat side out and fat side in) and tie together at base, center, and top with 100% cotton kitchen string. The rib ends should be pushed outward to create the look of a crown.

****Tip: If you are only able to find lamb racks that have already been frenched (and have no trimmings), cook 4 ounces ground lamb in 1 tablespoon hot oil in hot roasting pan for sauce. Place roast in pan with ground lamb.

Butter-Braised Radishes with Kale and Lemon
Prep the radishes and kale prior to preparing the roast; cover and place in refrigerator. While lamb roasts, braise the radishes and sauté the kale.

Trim roots and leaves from radishes. Soak radishes in cold water 15 minutes to loosen any dirt. Drain and scrub. Halve any large radishes. Finely shred peel from lemon; set peel aside. Juice lemon; set juice aside. Melt butter in large skillet. Add radishes in single layer. Add broth; bring to simmer over medium heat. Sprinkle with lemon peel and sugar.

Reduce heat to low simmer. Cook, covered, 25 to 30 minutes or until radishes are easily pierced with skewer. Uncover; increase heat to medium. Shake pan to coat radishes; simmer until liquid reduces to a glaze and coats radishes, 5 to 10 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer radishes to serving dish.

The potatoes can be peeled and cut ahead of time. Place potatoes pieces in a large bowl of cold water; drain and pat dry before tossing with oil and spices. Place on bottom rack of oven and roast alongside Crown Roast of Lamb and Chestnut Stuffing.

Buckwheat honey has a darker color than standard honey. It has a malty, molasses flavor, which contrasts nicely with the sweet potatoes. Find it at a specialty grocer or order online from Gourmet-Food.com.

Indian Pudding is a lovely old Yankee fall dessert: full of molasses, ginger, and cinnamon. We decided to try this cornmeal-based pudding as a pie filling. It’s a great alternative to standard pumpkin pie.

Deep-Dish Pie Crust:
Preheat oven to 450°F. In large bowl stir together flour and salt. Using pastry blender, cut in shortening and butter until pieces are pea size. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon water over part of flour mixture; toss with fork. Push moistened pastry to side of bowl. Repeat moistening flour mixture, using 1 tablespoon of water at time, until flour mixture is moistened. Gather flour mixture into ball, kneading gently until it holds together.

Line pastry with double thickness of foil. Bake 8 minutes. Remove foil. Bake 5 to 6 minutes more until crust is set and dry. Cool on wire rack. Bake leaves until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool on wire rack.

Filling:
Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. In small bowl, mix together sugar, ginger, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, salt, and baking soda; set aside. In medium saucepan, heat 2 cups milk to simmer. Stir in cornmeal, a little at a time, until combined. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes or until very thick. Remove from heat. Stir sugar mixture into cornmeal mixture. Place eggs in large bowl; beat lightly. Gradually stir hot cornmeal mixture into eggs; set aside.

In another medium saucepan stir together molasses and remaining 1 cup milk. Cook and stir until bubbly. Cook, uncovered, for 2 minutes more. (Mixture will be foamy and may appear curdled.) Whisk molasses mixture into cornmeal mixture; set aside. In small bowl beat egg whites with electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Fold into cornmeal mixture. Pour filling into baked pastry shell. (Pastry will be very full.) Bake for 45 minutes or until slightly puffed and set. Pie will fall slightly on cooling.