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Descend into the depths of Oxley Wild Rivers National
Park for splendid isolation, suggests Briar Jensen.
DISCOVER AUSTRALIA: NEW SOUTH WALES
The New England Highlands,
at about 1000m above sea
level, might be known for their
cultural heritage, but plunge off the
plateau and they are equally blessed
with world-heritage wilderness.
Pause on the precipice of gorge country
and witness the earth cracked open. As
if torn apart, ragged ridges descend
into gaping ravines, whose wounds are
flushed clean by raging rivers sluicing
through the granite beneath patches of
Gondwana Rainforest.
Armidale is a gateway to Oxley Wild
Rivers, a sprawling, irregular-shaped
national park with scattered offshoots
which, like a giant jigsaw, is being
pieced together with land purchased
as farmers retire or relinquish Crown
leases. Named after John Oxley, the
first European to pass through the
area in 1818, the park is one of the
largest in New South Wales.
Autumnal gold poplars line Waterfall
Way on the drive to Gara Gorge,
20 minutes east of Armidale, where
ranger Christine Lehmann leads us
along Threlfall Track, a loop following
the remains of Australia’s first public
hydro-electric scheme built in 1894 to
supply electricity to the mining town of
Hillgrove. The track meanders through
open woodlands and swamp wallabies
stop to stare before bouncing out of
sight. The original dam, known locally
as Blue Hole, is a popular picnic spot
and swimming hole where crimson
rosellas flash red and blue between
shady she oaks.
Further east is Wollomombi Gorge
(pronounced ‘walla mom bee’), home
to Chandler and Wollomombi Falls,
the latter the highest in New South
Wales at approximately 220m. From
the first lookout both falls are visible,
cascading over sheer cliffs.
Secluded riverside
campsites
Deeper into the park is Raspberry
Mountain. Descending almost 900m
from the ridge top, the ‘road’ to West
Kunderang Recreational Retreat turns
into a wickedly steep, narrow, winding
gravel track. This is 4WD territory
and I’m glad to have Jon Galletly of
Fish‘n’trips‘n’tips at the wheel.
West Kunderang is a private
pastoral property cocooned by Oxley
Wild Rivers National Park. Secluded
riverside campsites are kitted-out
with pit toilets, tank water, fire pits
and picnic tables. On the banks of
the Macleay River, the property offers
wildlife watching, bushwalking,
kayaking, and bass fishing.
We’re here for the 4W-driving,
popular with enthusiast clubs. Jon
bumps and slews along the rocky
riverbank, past evidence of wild pigs,
before ploughing into the water for
my first river crossing. Water surges in
front of the bull bar and rushes past
the doors as rocks rumble and grind
under our tyres. It’s thrilling and I
wish I was driving.
After a spot of fishing we return to
Raspberry Ridge and descend the steep
An emerald
oasıs
Wollomombi Falls, New England.
86 GetUp&Go