TASTINGS

Published: December 27, 1995

Chateau Montelena Calistoga Cuvee 1993 (Napa Valley). About $18.

The winery's description of this particular offering says it is "primarily cabernet sauvignon" blended with merlot and cabernet franc. But then there is mention of "small amounts of other black-grape varieties" grown in the area. What could the wine maker have been thinking of? Doesn't he know Americans can't enjoy a wine unless they know exactly what's in it and in what proportion? Just joking, of course. We know that this wine is mostly cabernet sauvignon, and when it comes from Montelena, that's all we need to know. Calistoga is in the sultry end of the Napa Valley, and this wine shows that influence. It is inky dark in color and packed with fruit flavors. Bo Barrett, the wine maker, says it will improve for up to eight years. But anyone who tastes one bottle isn't going to have the patience to wait that long to drink more.