Listen my friends and you shall hear, of the shopping tale of a
"reenacteer".

One pistol would do but two were more fun, now not enough money
left for the carbine, just one.

The coat was too heavy kinda like a blanket, and the dye turned
all purple when the sun it had baked it.

The saddle you know had a fiberglass tree, and the "authentics"
made mirth and laughed at it with glee.

His heart it was golden and desired to do right, but the rush to
buy stuff created a blight.

The next time he shops will be with more wisdom, some friends
with the knowledge will help the decision.

Yes it's happened to more of us than we wish to admit.
We look on those early mistakes and wish we could Hang 'Em High.
It's better to go slow and get it right than waste time and a Fist Full of
Dollars rushing to get all that great stuff you thought you saw the other
guys using, when For a Few Dollars More you can do much better in the
authenticity of your gear and clothing. It's all out there, The Good,
the Bad, and the Ugly, and we're here to help you sort it out. That
way, you won't be branded a FARB, or Josey Wales type.

Now let's not get too tied up in knots either. We are not
a hard-core authentic unit. We strive more for functional excellence
than material perfection. We typically get labeled by hobbyists as a "Mainstream" unit. While this label works for
some,
it leaves much unclear. We intend to work toward a good to better material
impression using well made clothing and equipment. We encourage all
members to start at good mid-quality level and work up from there.

DON'T BUY ANYTHING WITHOUT
TALKING TO US FIRST. Expect to spend from $3,000 to $4,000 to get started,
assuming you already have horse and transport for it.

Impression

The 2nd United States Dragoon / Cavalry, Company
H which, after initial assignment to the Defenses of Washington and
Provost Martial (till September 1862), was part of the Army of the Potomac's Reserve Cavalry Brigade.

Pre-war and early war items are preferred to cover a greater time span.

Please review the following target impression standards for participants.
We expect it to take time.

Participation beyond the first two years will require meeting those guidelines listed below.

All participants are welcomed and encouraged to exceed basic guidelines at
their discretion.

Hats had round crown sides without
front “pinch”, with a round, flat, furrowed, bowl, or “beehive” shaped crown
tops. No modern styles!

“Hat Brass” (optional items)

Designed originally for the Uniform
hat, and not the Fatigue Cap until after General Order #53 of 1863. We see
many Fatigue Caps so adorned in the picture of Company I from spring 1863.
You may want a second, unadorned cap for living history purposes.

Crossed Sabers with the 1” Company
Letter below, and ¾” Regimental number above, all generally centered on the
front of the Uniform Hat crown, or on the top of the Fatigue Cap crown.

US Eagle hatpin, to attach right side
of the uniform hat brim up to the crown.

NONE of these to be worn on civilian
style hats or caps.

Hat Cord, with tassels (optional item)

Color ORANGE through 1863, Yellow
afterward

Worn around the base of the hat crown,
tassels aligned front and rear along the right side.

Worn only on the Uniform Hat, not
civilian hats.

Plume (optional item)

Black ostrich feather, about 12” to 14”
in length

Attached to the left side of the
Uniform Hat crown, aligned front to back

Only worn on the Uniform Hat, not
civilian hats.

Jackets

1858 Fatigue blouse (required item) Also
called the "Saque Coat" or Shell Jacket

Medium to dark blue lightweight wool
flannel with a clearly visible diagonal weave. NOT blackish “navy” blue
which often fades to purple.

Short fold over collar, faced lapels

Cuffs with a small scalloped vent in
the rear.

Four large US eagle buttons.

Hand-sewn buttonholes. You can easily
redo them by hand.

Unlined versions have flat-felled
seams.

Linings are of one-piece wool or
wool/cotton weave in the body and muslin in the sleeve.

1854 Mounted Service Jacket (optional for
first year)

Of dark blue or royal blue wool as with
the Fatigue blouse

ORANGE
dyed worsted wool tape trim (we're Dragoons, remember?). This color lasted
till after Gettysburg. Beyond that and when not portraying the 2nd US, we
can just use the Fatigue Blouse noted above, unless you also want to buy a
yellow trimmed jacket.

12 Small eagle buttons down the front,
3” tall collar with 2 ornamental buttons each side

Hand sewn buttonholes. You can easily
redo them by hand.

Full body/sleeve linings as the Fatigue
blouse, or polished cotton/cotton.

Attachments for shoulder scales
(optional)

Enlisted brass shoulder scales
(optional)

Trousers

Mounted Pattern Trousers (required)

Made of sky-blue kersey wool with a
clearly visible diagonal weave.

Top of the thin, tapering waistband
should reach the wearer's navel.

Reinforced seat and inseam.

Narrow, three to five button fly.

Raised back with yoke.

Side pockets and right-side watch
pocket.

Facings on vented cuffs.

Detail work, like buttonholes, done by
hand. You can redo them yourself.

Dark blue Mounted pattern trousers
(optional for early-war)

As above but dyed dark or royal blue.

Foot Pattern Trousers (optional mid to
late war or if you’ve already got ‘em)