GRAND RAPIDS, MI – Sweet complements salty. That’s why chicken and waffles go so well together, and why the dish is a popular staple of soul-food menus.

Although I’ve only eaten the pairing on a few occasions, it always reminds me of one of my favorite breakfast combos, sausage and pancakes. Although the source of the meat and the texture of starch is different, it’s the same basic idea: if you’re not dunking your sausages in the syrup, you’re doing it wrong.

But I digress. My latest chicken/waffles culinary adventure came with a trip to LINC Up Soul Food Café, the relatively new eatery associated with the nonprofit housing developer LINC Community Revitalization. It opened in Feb., 2014 in the Madison Square Business District, and offers catfish, shrimp and grits, ribs and other traditional soul-food fare.

Fare and fees: Sandwiches are $7.99, starters are $4.99 or $6.99 for a sampler, main dishes are $7.99-$10.99.

Ambience: The café offers sit-down table service inside a brightly lit contemporary dining room. The vibe is lively, if a little loud when the restaurant is full (or close to it).

Wait for food: About 10 minutes for our appetizer, an additional 10 for the main course.

How was it? We started off with an order of deep-fried pickles ($4.99), dill slices battered with a thin layer of corn meal, and served with a southwestern ranch dipping sauce. They were perfectly crisp, not too greasy, and the light, tangy sauce resembled a sweet-sour combination of sriracha and honey. They were my favorite part of the meal.

Garret opted for the brisket sandwich ($7.99), a very bare-bones serving of sliced brisket on a toasted bun. It was a bit fatty for his taste, and he ended up trimming an ample portion of it for a leaner bite. Sandwiches come with a side, and he chose a small, but hearty portion of Louisiana-style gumbo, which comes with white rice on the side. He added a side of baked macaroni and cheese for $2.99.

My chicken and waffles ($8.99) included four full, uncut wings spider-legged atop a waffle the size of a small dinner plate. The chicken recipe lacked some bite – I’m not a fan of basic hot sauce, which was offered to us – but was still crispy and flavorful, combining nicely with the sweet syrup, served on the side. For a side item, our server recommended the greens, which were rich and flavorful.

The final word: LINC Up offers solid soul-food offerings with friendly service and attractive presentation. We watched other patrons in the restaurant order delicious-looking baby-back ribs and chicken-and-waffle sliders (which were on special the day we stopped by), which may persuade us to visit again.

John Serba is film critic and entertainment reporter for MLive and The Grand Rapids Press. Email him at jserba@mlive.com or follow him on Twitter or Facebook.