Record of Changes
It is the responsibility of the owner of this product to register their ownership with Diving Systems International by sending in the warranty card provided. This card is to establish registration for any necessary warranty work and as a means of communication that allows DSI to contact the user regarding this product. The user must notify DSI of any change of address by the user or sale of the product. All changes or revisions to this manual must be recorded in this document to ensure that the manual is up to date.

Definitions of Signal Words Used in this Manual
For your protection, pay particular attention to items identified by signal words in this manual. These terms are identified as, CAUTION, WARNING AND DANGER. It is especially important for you to read and understand these signal words. CAUTION: This word indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury. It may also be used to alert against unsafe practices.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

WARNING: This word indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury. DANGER: This word indicates an imminently hazardous situation, which if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.

If you have any questions regarding the information in this manual, or the operation of your helmet, call Diving Systems International at (805) 965-853, fax (805) 966-5761 or e-mail: Divsysintl@aol.com for technical assistance.

IMPORTANT: A Word about this manual. We have tried to make this manual as comprehensive and factual as possible. We reserve the right however, to make changes at any time, without notice, in prices, colors, materials, equipment, specifications, models and availability. Since some information may have been updated since the time of printing, please contact your local DSI dealer if you have any questions.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
This Kirby Morgan diving helmet is only intended for use by trained divers who have successfully completed a recognized training course in surface supplied diving. WARNING: Follow all the instructions in this manual carefully and heed all safety precautions. Improper use of this diving helmet could result in serious injury or death.

DANGER: Diving Systems International (DSI) warns all divers who use Kirby Morgan helmets to be sure to use only DSI original spare parts from a DSI authorized dealer. Although other parts, O-rings and fittings may appear to fit, they may not be manufactured to the same standards maintained by DSI. The use of any parts other than DSI original parts may lead to equipment failure and accidents.

DANGER: Diving in an environment that is chemically, biologically, or radiologically contaminated is extremely hazardous. Although the Kirby Morgan helmets and masks may be adapted for use in some contaminated environments, special training, equipment, and procedures are necessary. Do not dive in a contaminated environment unless you have been thoroughly trained and equipped for this type of diving.

Read this manual before using or maintaining this equipment, even if you have experience with other similar demand mode masks or helmets. If you have purchased this helmet new from a dealer, be sure to send in the warranty registration card so we may keep you informed regarding any safety notices that affect this product. If you resell or loan this helmet to another diver, be sure this manual accompanies the helmet and that the person reads and understands the manual.

DANGER: Diving is a life threatening occupation. Even if you do everything right there is still the potential for serious injury or death. Diving a Kirby Morgan Helmet or Band Mask can not prevent accidents, injuries, or death.

WARNING: This helmet was completely checked and should be ready to dive as it was shipped from the factory. However, it is always the diver's responsibility to check all the components of the helmet prior to diving.

This manual is supplied to the original purchaser of this helmet. If you have any questions about the use of the helmet or you need another copy of this manual, Part Number 100-027, contact Diving Systems International or your nearest DSI dealer. If you have any questions regarding the use, maintenance, or operation of this helmet, contact Diving Systems International at (805) 965-8538, fax: (805) 966-5761, or e-mail: DivSysInt@aol.com.

DANGER: Kirby Morgan masks and helmets are not cleaned or lubricated for oxygen service. Using this mask with oxygen percentages above 50% by volume may lead to fire or explosions which can result in serious injury or death.

All Kirby Morgan helmets and masks must not be used with oxygen breathing mixtures in excess of 50% by volume without first insuring all gas transporting components have been cleaned and lubricated for oxygen service. Only oxygen compatible lubricants such as Krytox® and Christo lube® should be used. Lubricants must be used sparingly.

The information contained in this manual is intended to aid the user in optimizing the performance of this helmet. Some of the information will depend on the diving situation and the use of associated equipment. Many countries have specific laws and rules regarding commercial diving. The operating and performance specifications listed in this manual on page 3 is separated into two charts. These charts demonstrate different operation requirements, which are required or imposed by countries or regulating bodies. It is important for the user to understand the rules, regulations, and philosophy imposed by the governing regulating bodies whenever using commercial diving equipment. These charts show the basic operating pressures, depths, and umbilical configurations as required by some regulating bodies. Whenever Diving Systems International helmets or masks are used in European Countries, which have adopted the C.E. certification programs they must only be used with C.E. certified components. Diving operations should only be conducted within the limits of the operational specifications, and in accordance with the rules and regulations established by the governing authority in the specific country or geographical location where the diving operations are being conducted. Please call Diving Systems International regarding any operational or performance questions.

Warranty Information
Diving Systems International warrants every new mask, helmet, or DCS (Dive Control System) to be free from defects in workmanship for a period of ninety (90) days from date of purchase. This warranty does not cover rubber parts or communications components. Should any part become defective due to workmanship during the warranty period, contact your nearest authorized DSI dealer. If there is no dealer in your area, contact DSI directly at (805) 965-8538, Fax (805) 966-5761, or E-Mail: DivSysIntl@aol.com. You must have a return authorization number (RAM #) from DSI prior to the return of any item. Upon approval from DSI, return the defective part, freight prepaid to: DSI, 425 Garden Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93101, USA. The part will be repaired or replaced at no charge as deemed necessary by DSI. This warranty becomes null and void if: 1. The product is not registered with DSI within ten (10) days of purchase. 2. The product has not been properly serviced and maintained according to the appropriate DSI manual. 3. Unauthorized modifications have been made to the product. 4. The product has been abused or subjected to conditions which are unusual or exceed the product's intended service.

Handle

Helmet Shell Port retainer

Free flow knob Port

Sideblock Emergency valve knob Equalizing device

One-way valve Regulator adjustment knob

Locking Pin

Regulator

SL-27 MANUAL STOP! BEFORE GOING FURTHERThis manual will refer to location numbers in specific drawings or in the exploded view(s) which are in the back of this manual. These numbers are called “location” numbers. They are used to find the referred to parts in the drawings in this manual only. They are not the part number. Next to the exploded drawing is a list of the “location” numbers that match the Kirby Morgan part numbers along with what the part is called. Always check the part number when ordering to make sure it is correct. When ordering, always specify the helmet model number and serial number as well.

CHAPTER 1.0 GENERAL INFORMATION
1.1 INTRODUCTION Diving Systems International, Inc. (DSI) is the same corporation (with only a name change) that started as the Kirby Morgan Corporation in 1965. Kirby Morgan is a registered trademark for our products. Morgan started designing and making diving equipment shortly after becoming a breathhold diver while working as a beach lifeguard in the late 1940s. There was very little equipment available in those early days so it was necessary to make much of his own gear. During the early 1950s he originated the Los Angeles (California) Underwater Instructor Program for teaching Scuba divers and instructors. A short time later, Bev started Dive ‘N Surf, one of the first diving equipment suppliers that integrated Scuba diving instruction into the same operation as sales and service of equipment. He, along with his partners, Bill and Bob Meistrell, designed and manufactured diving equipment that set the standards for the diving industry today. In 1957 Morgan sold Dive ‘N Surf to his partners and spent the next two years cruising the South Pacific aboard a 60 ft. ketch. After returning from the South Pacific, Morgan started commercial diving as well as designing and making diving equipment for the commercial market.

The Kirby Morgan Corporation was formed and began manufacturing commercial diving helmets. The copper and brass “heavy gear” or “Standard Dress” helmets were the first helmets manufactured by the company. Over the years Kirby Morgan designed, manufactured and sold many different helmets and masks for commercial divers.
1

SL-27 MANUAL good divers, diving equipment engineers, diving medical specialists, diving organization administrators and their supporting personnel has contributed to the current state of the art of diving. Each piece of gear we manufacture has in it some of the thinking of those who have gone before us. To all those people who give something of themselves to the men and women who work underwater, we express a thank you. Our extensive dealer network makes it easy to obtain genuine Kirby Morgan replacement parts as well as technical assistance world wide. We have a strong commitment to providing the best diving equipment and service possible. Diving Systems has always concentrated on designing and manufacturing diving equipment that allows most repairs and routine maintenance to be performed by the user. The SuperLite 27 is no exception. Most routine preventative and corrective maintenance can be accomplished by the user utilizing this manual, the DSI Tool Kit and common hand tools.
Steve Kushner, Diving Systems President

Staying active in commercial diving has contributed to the successful design innovations of DSI products. This may be the primary reason for the acceptance of our designs by professional divers. Morgan has designed more than thirty five diving helmets and thirty four diving masks. Led by Steve Kushner, Diving Systems President, all members of the DSI staff participate as part of the Kirby Morgan design team. It would not be possible for us to supply the commercial, military, scientific, and public service diving industries with our equipment without the team of people that make up Diving Systems International, Inc. (DSI). We feel it is important for the reader to understand that we at D.S.I. consider ourselves as only part of the process along the path in diving equipment design. We welcome all input from our customers. The thinking of many
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The SL-27 side block and regulator are of a U.S. Navy approved design, engineered to provide an optimum flow of breathing gas even under heavy work conditions. The SL-27 has undergone a CE Type Examination and has been certified by a notified body. The helmet has been tested to a depth of 220fsw (67msw) using air as a breathing media in the standard configuration (standard exhaust whisker assembly). The helmet in the standard configuration conforms to the requirements set forth by European CE. When the helmet is fitted with the double exhaust kit, and is used in countries that conform to CE regulations the helmet is limited to a maximum depth on air to 30 msw (100fsw). When the helmet in the standard configuration is used for air diving in countries not regulated CE or by specific depth or performance regulations it may be used on air in the standard configuration to 220fsw (67msw). For further performance information on the double exhaust whisker configuration see section 8.7. Performance of the helmet is dependent on many factors including type of breathing gas used, work rate, delivery pressure, umbilical internal diameter, length and number of connections, diving depth and capa-

bility of the gas delivery system to provide breathing media at the required SCFM or LPM to maintain the optimum static over bottom pressure. Performance of this helmet is measured in volume averaged pressure, resistive effort, formally called work of breathing. Volume averaged pressure is the measurement of average pressures contributed by resistive components within the UBA. This value is normally expressed in Joules/liter. The performance of this helmet can be expected to be less than 3.0 J/L when used within the following guidelines. 1.1.1 Operational Specifications Operational Specifications and Limitations: - Maximum depth on air - 220 fsw (67 msw) with the standard exhaust whisker assembly. - Maximum depth on air - 100 fsw (30 msw) when equipped with the double exhaust whisker assembly*. Work rate - moderately heavy - 62.5 lpm rmv. -Umbilical minimum I.D. 3/8” (9.5 mm) of one continuous length (no splice), total length not to exceed 600 feet (182m). -Required over-bottom supply pressure, 0-l00 fsw (0-30 msw), 115-135 psig (8-9.3 bar). 100-150 fsw (30-50 msw),135-225 psig (9.3-15.5 bar). 100-220 fsw (30-67 msw),175-225 psig (12.0-15.5 bar). -Gas supply system capable of supplying 4.5 acfm (127.4 BL/min) to the side block assembly at depth. -Temperature limitations: Use at water temperatures below 36o F (2oC) requires use of hot water shroud and hot water.

SL-27 MANUAL The umbilical assembly should be composed of good quality diving hose that meets industry standards. Generally, gas hose will be married to the communications wire, pneumofathometer hose, and strength member in a manner that will allow the strength member to receive all the strain. There are also good quality umbilicals available that are assembled at the factory using a twisted method which does not require marrying. Regardless of the system used, the umbilical is the divers life line and should always be of excellent quality and maintained carefully. The diving control station can be at the surface, in a diving bell, or out of a submerged habitat. The diving control station is the center of the air/gas supply, communications with the diver, and diving procedures.

DANGER: Decompression diving always involves the risk of decompression sickness. Omitted decompression due to loss of gas supply or other accidents can cause serious injury or death. Use of a SuperLite 27 cannot prevent this type of injury. WARNING: Gas systems used to supply Kirby Morgan helmets and masks must be capable of supplying gas to the diver at the required pressure and flow rates as stated in the operational specifications. The use of unregulated gas sources is extremely dangerous. The use of standard SCUBA type regulators is unacceptable, as there are no provisions for adjusting the intermediate pressure to the diver. Only proven systems that allow for varying the gas supply pressure to the diver should be used for umbilical diving.

- Only equipment certified and tested according to EN 250/E DIN 58 642 may be used with the SL-27 helmet when conducting diving operations in European EC compliant countries.

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SL-27 MANUAL 1.2 KIRBY MORGAN DIVING HELMETS All Kirby Morgan diving helmets are manufactured by Diving Systems International, Inc. (DSI). Each step of the manufacturing process is carefully controlled to assure the customer a high quality, durable helmet that will function properly. There are four different Kirby Morgan diving helmets in production at this time. They are the SuperLite-17, the SuperLite-17C, and the SuperLite-27, and the U.S. Navy MK-21 mod 1. The SuperLite-17 was first developed in 1975 and quickly set a new standard for diving helmet design. This design has been successfully used around the world by many large and small commercial diving companies, military organizations, scientific divers, and public safety divers. The SuperLite-27 was developed in 1992. It features a unique locking collar design and an extremely low volume. It shares a common breathing system with both the SuperLite-17 and the SuperLite-17C. Other features common to all three helmets include: • the face port and retainer ring • communications components • the oral/nasal mask • the nose block device • the air train • most demand regulator components Many of the breathing system components on these three helmets are also compatible with our Kirby Morgan Band Mask, models 18A/B and 28B. This helps reduce the inventory of spare parts that must be carried by commercial diving companies. 1.3 FEATURES OF THE SUPERLITE-27 1) Both latex and neoprene neck dams (140) are available for this helmet. 2) The locking collar design helps to maintain a very low volume in this helmet. 3) The adjustable neck pad (155) also provides further customization for the fit of the helmet. 4) The bottom end of the helmet is well protected against wear. The base of the helmet (58) is a machined brass ring that provides an excellent seal yet is less susceptible to damage.
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Head Cushion Bag Polartec Foam #4 Ester Communications Earphones Mylar cone speakers, 8 ohm Microphone 8 ohm Adjustment of helmet fit Number of External Weights Recommended lubricants Operating Pressure Flow requirements Adjustable through head cushion and face cushion, external chin strap and neck pad One
Dow Cornin 111 S4 Sili for e, Kry & 055 Ha ocar to metal DowCorning g Msilicone conrubber tox, for lmetalbon

5) The externally adjustable chin strap (146) helps to secure the diver in the helmet, yet can be adjusted at any time during the dive. 6) The head cushion (40) attaches just inside the bottom of the helmet, keeping it in place when the diver dons the hat. The standard head cushion is made from Polartec® material. 7) When the neck dam/neck ring (148) is locked into place on the helmet neck ring, it is located up inside a protective metal receiving shroud (that the neck ring O-ring seals to) which protects the neck ring and neck dam (148) from side impact damage during the dive. 8) The communications system (134) is a modular, quick change design. DANGER: Never use any aerosol propelled sprays near the face port of any Kirby Morgan diving helmet. The Freon propellant used in these aerosols can invisibly damage the face port and cause it to shatter on impact from any strong blow. If the face port fails underwater the helmet will flood and drowning may result.

1.5 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 1.5.1 Helmet Shell The helmet shell (58) is fabricated of noncorrosive, rigid fiberglass which will not carry an electrical charge. This shell is the central structure for mounting all the components that make up the complete helmet. It is designed to allow easy replacement of parts when necessary. Any repair to the helmet shell must be done at an approved DSI repair center. On the SuperLite-27, a machined, chrome plated, brass helmet ring is attached to the base of the helmet shell at the DSI factory. This chromed brass helmet ring must not be removed by anyone other than the factory or a DSI approved repair center. 1.5.2 Gas Flow Systems The main gas supply flow from the umbilical enters the system at the adapter (36) and flows through the one way valve (37) to the interior of the side block (12). The one way valve or “non-return” is a very important component. It prevents the flow of gas out of the helmet to the umbilical in the event of a sudden lowering of pressure in the supply hose. This can happen due to an accidental break in the hose or a fitting near the surface. Not only would the emergency gas be lost if the one way valve failed (con-

SL-27 MANUAL current with a hose or fitting break on deck), but the diver could suffer from a serious “squeeze” that could cause injury or death. Although we have selected the valve for its reliability and quality, inspection and maintenance of this valve must be done regularly. It is very easy to disassemble and inspect. (A rebuild kit for this valve is available, DSI Part #525330). WARNING: The one way valve must be tested daily, prior to the commencement of diving operations. Failure of one way valve could cause serious injury or death. Follow the procedures for testing the valve in chapter 2 (sec. 2.4.6) of this manual. The emergency gas comes from a tank of compressed gas worn by the diver. It enters the system through the emergency valve (27) when the diver turns the control knob (24) on. The flow then enters the side block (12). CAUTION/WARNING: Never connect the main gas supply hose from the diving station/umbilical to the emergency valve. There is no one way valve in the emergency valve. If this mistake is made, any break in the supply hose could possibly result in a “squeeze”.

SL-27 MANUAL Both sources of gas flow through the same passage in the side block body (12) to two exits. One exit is always open to supply gas to the demand regulator assembly (113). The other exit is to the defogger valve (free-flow valve) assembly (1-10). The diver controls the flow of gas through the defogger system with the control knob (3). The gas enters the helmet and flows through the air train (67) which directs the gas onto the face port (77) to help eliminate or clear fogging of the faceplate that forms from the diver’s warm breath. The flow continues out through the water dump (helmet exhaust) valve (71-75), or into the oral nasal (50) by means of the valve (52-53), then into the regulator (113) and out through the regulator exhaust (112). The diver can breathe from this flow of gas if the demand regulator malfunctions. Returning to the side block assembly: the other passage for gas is to the demand regulator (113). It goes to a bent tube assembly (16) that connects to the inlet nipple (109) of the demand regulator. The flow of gas in the demand regulator assembly is controlled by the inlet valve (111) that supplies gas to the diver on inhalation “demand” only, and shuts off during the exhalation cycle. The SuperFlow demand regulator senses the start of the divers inhalation and opens the inlet valve, matching the diver’s need. The regulator continues to match the diver’s inhalation as the rate increases, peaks, then ebbs and stops. When the diver exhales, the supply gas stays off as the exhalation gas flows through the regulator body (113), out the regulator exhaust valve (112), through the whisker (86), and out into the water. The whisker deflects the exhaust bubbles away from the face port (77) to keep the diver’s view clear. All Diving systems Helmets and Bandmasks are equipped with a multi turn demand regulator adjustment knob. This adjustment knob (98) allows the diver to make adjustments to compensate for a wide

range of incoming gas supply pressures. (Normally this would be from 115-225 psig (8-15.5 bar) over ambient. When diving in relatively shallow water (to depths of 100 fsw (30 msw) we recommend a supply pressure of between 115-135 psig (8-9.3 bar) over ambient. When diving deeper than 100 fsw (30 msw), we recommend a supply pressure of between 175-225 psig (12.0-15.5 bar) over ambient.) The adjustment knob operates by simply increasing or decreasing the amount of spring bias tension on the demand regulator inlet valve. The adjustment knob has a range of approximately 13 turns from full in to full out. The intent of this bias adjustment device is strictly to allow the diver to make adjustments for variations in umbilical supply pressure. This adjustment device is not intended as a minimum-maximum device. Minimum and maximum applies to supply pressure only. The adjustment knob should be adjusted by the diver to be at the easiest breathing setting at all times. The exact number of turns required is dependent on the supply pressure. Diving a DSI helmet or bandmask with a bias setting greater than that just necessary to keep the demand valve from free flowing increases the work of breathing and reduces the diver's ability to perform heavy work. CAUTION: The regulator adjustment knob should be adjusted to the easiest breathing setting at all times. Adjusting the regulator further in than necessary to keep from free-flowing increases breathing resistance. The side block (12) is drilled and tapped to accept low pressure inflator hoses. This allows the diver the capability to inflate variable volume dry suits or buoyancy compensators. It is tapped with a 3/8"-24 thread, standard for American first stage Scuba regulator’s low pressure auxiliary fittings. The port is shipped plugged (17) at delivery. It is important to use only a good quality inflator hose that has an integrated flow restrictor built into the fitting at the side block end. This restrictor is used by most dry suit manufactures to help reduce the flow of gas in the event the hose fitting gets sheared off. If a standard bore scuba hose is used the DSI restrictor adapter PN# 555-7210 must be used. This DSI adapter is designed with a restriction built in and will allow a sufficient flow of breathing gas to the diver to make a safe ascent in the event of a inflation hose failure.

Low pressure inflator port

6

SL-27 MANUAL WARNING: When using the side block low pressure inflator port. The Operator should only use high quality hoses with an integrated flow restrictor or a DSI flow restrictor PN# 555-720. All hoses must have an in-line restrictor to reduce the gas flow in the event of hose failure. Do not use fitting adapters, standard adapters do not provide an adequate flow restriction. The use of many off the shelf adapters on the side block assembly could expose the low pressure hose fittings to excessive stress. Any failure of an inflation hose will subject the diver to a decreased supply pressure. The DSI Overpressure relief valve, part number 200017 has been manufactured in two different flow rates. The original valve had a lower flow rate then the current valve. The current valve has been marked in two ways, the first being a groove around the flats of the hex. Currently the valve is marked with a groove around the top of the body. These are the same valve, just different marks. 1.5.4 Helmet Attachment to the Diver On the SuperLite-27, the neck ring on the base of the helmet shell (58) has a machined O-ring sealing surface. The O-ring (138) that seals against this surface sits inside the neck dam ring assembly. The neck dam ring is actually a two part ring, consisting of the upper split ring (139) and the lower stepped ring (141). The neck dam (140) is captured (sandwiched) between these parts.
138

1.5.3 Emergency Gas Supply System All divers using Kirby Morgan surface supplied helmets and masks must always have a diver worn emergency gas cylinder fitted with a first stage regulator and hose that is connected to the inlet of the emergency supply valve. The size of the cylinder should be such that will allow the diver to safely ascend to the surface or to a point where the normal gas supply can be restored. The first stage regulator should always be fitted with the DSI overpressure relief valve. WARNING: Be sure the emergency air/gas first stage regulator is fitted with an overpressure relief valve. A leaky first stage can overpressure the hose, bursting it and causing a loss of the entire bailout supply and possible physical injury to the diver as the hose whips about. Do not use a high pressure hose as the system on the helmet is not designed for high pressure.

139

140

141

142 143 148 144 152 149 150 147 145 146

151 152 153

154 158

155

156 157

Fig 1.7 - Neck Dam & Locking Collar components

Fig. 1.6 Shown are the three versions of the over pressure relief valve, current model on the far right.

The locking collar and neck pad assembly has a smaller opening than a diver’s head so the helmet cannot be accidentally dislodged on most divers. The neck pad pushes against the neck dam and lower portion of the head cushion firmly securing the helmet to the diver’s head. The neck pad also helps prevent neck dam ballooning. Each diver must personally adjust the fit on his helmet by adjusting the neck pad, as well as the head cushion. All of these parts together help provide a good fit.
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SL-27 MANUAL CAUTION: The fit of the SuperLite-27 is partially determined by the adjustment of the neck pad. If the neck pad is not properly adjusted it may be very uncomfortable on the diver’s neck. Take the time to adjust the neck pad properly and check the fit prior to each dive to ensure the adjustment has not changed. CAUTION/WARNING Pulling the neck dam over the diver’s head can be difficult. The latex neck dam should be powdered if dry. If wet, the diver should devise a system to get the seal over his head without excessive force. Stretching (expanding) the seal and placing part way over the head can help reduce the force needed to install the seal. Proper training is necessary to install the neck seal over the diver’s head and onto his neck. Although the possibility is very remote, injury might result if this procedure is not done properly. If a diver does not know how to don the neck seal he should seek proper instruction before proceeding. 1.5.6 Reducing Carbon Dioxide It is important to reduce the volume of air/gas space that the diver is breathing through. Carbon dioxide (CO2) can build up if proper flushing does not occur. A rubber oral nasal mask (50) is located inside the helmet to fit over the diver’s nose and mouth. The oral nasal attaches to the regulator mount nut (49). This separates the breathing gas flow from the larger gas space on the interior of the helmet, and this in turn reduces carbon dioxide buildup. WARNING: Always be sure the oral nasal valve is properly mounted in the oral nasal mask. If the valve is mounted improperly or is absent this can lead to a higher CO2 level inside the helmet. A higher CO2 level can cause dizziness, nausea, headaches, shortness of breath, or blackout. 1.5.7 Communications In the SuperLite-27, both earphones (132,133) and microphone (131) are wired in parallel to the communications module 116). This module allows for rapid replacement of the entire communications system. The module can be equipped with either a waterproof connector, or binding posts for bare wire connection. Electrical signals are sent to, and received from, the surface through the umbilical wires. An amplifier boosts the signals to the desired volume for the surface and the diver.

On the SuperLite-27, both sides of the helmet locking collar have a latch catch block to receive the locking sealed pull pins (130). If the sealed pull pins are turned to the locking position while the locking collar is open, the locking collar will snap into the locked position when it is pushed up into the helmet neck ring. The sealed pull pin on each side must be pulled to release the locking collar to remove the helmet. This system provides an extremely secure method of attaching the helmet to the diver. The head cushion (40) is made from layers of open cell foam inserted in a head shaped Polartec® bag. The fit of the head cushion can be adjusted by adding or subtracting foam layers from the bag. The head cushion must be adjusted correctly for the helmet to fit properly. The relationship between the locking collar assembly, head cushion, face cushion, and helmet shell all affect the fit of the SuperLite-27. 1.5.5 Sealing Arrangement The neck dam (140), available in several sizes, is fabricated in a cone shape. The neck dam on SuperLite-27 is made of foam neoprene. An optional latex neck dam is available. The neck dam seals against the diver’s neck. The fit of the neoprene neck dam may be made larger by stretching the neck dam over a Scuba cylinder overnight. The fit of the latex neck dam may be made larger by trimming the neck dam. The neck dam must fit snugly.

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SL-27 MANUAL 1.5.8 Equalizing the Sinuses and Inner Ear A nose block device (51) allows the diver to block his nose to provide an overpressure in his sinus and inner ear for equalization. The blocking pad on the inside of the oral nasal mask is attached to a shaft which passes through a packing gland to the outside of the helmet. A knob attached to the end of the shaft can be pushed in to slide the pad under the diver’s nose. When not needed, the knob is pulled out so the pad does not rub under the diver’s nose. The pad may also be turned upside down (to provide more clearance under the diver’s nose) by rotating the shaft. 1.5.9 Face Port or Viewing Lens The face port or viewing lens (77) is extremely strong plastic which is easily removable for replacement of the lens. An O-ring (76), located under the lens, seals the lens to the fiberglass helmet shell. 1.5.10 Locking Sealed Pull Pin A special locking sealed pull pin (130) filled with silicone fluid helps to prevent fine sand or mud from entering the mechanism and help to avoid jamming.

WARNING: This pin must only be repaired or overhauled by an authorized DSI dealer or returned directly to DSI. This is not a field serviceable item. Failure to properly service this pin could result in a failure of the locking collar latch system, which could cause the helmet to come off the diver’s head. This could lead to drowning.

DANGER: The port retainer screws must be tightened to proper torque specifications per the instructions in this manual. See Appendix 1 for proper torque specifications. Do not over tighten.

O-ring Seal Face Port Port Retainer Weld Lens screw

Port Retainer screw

Fig 1.8 - Face Port components

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SL-27 MANUAL

NOTES

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SL-27 MANUAL

CHAPTER 2.0 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
WARNING: This manual is our effort to explain the operation, maintenance and use of the Kirby Morgan SuperLite-27™. We do not herein make any effort to teach the principles of diving. It is our assumption the user is a qualified diver. We highly recommend that all divers train in the use of any model of commercial diving helmet, under controlled conditions, that they have not previously used or trained in prior to use on the job. 2.1 INTRODUCTION This section provides the manufacturer’s advice on how to use the Kirby Morgan SuperLite-27. The use of this diving helmet will vary with the type of work and environmental conditions. The basic procedures of donning and removing this helmet will be similar for every job. A proper training program in a calm, clear body of water should be undertaken, if possible. If the diver has not used the SuperLite-27 before, he must not dive with that helmet without proper training. However, divers that are familiar and trained in the use of previous Kirby Morgan masks; i.e., KMB 8, 9, 10, 18, 28, the Navy Mk. 1 mask, Navy MK. 21 helmet, or the Navy Mk. 22 mask or the SuperLite-17 helmet, will find that all Kirby Morgan diving helmets have the breathing system controls located in the same position and the operation of this helmet will be similar. The umbilical is usually composed of at least a gas or air supply hose and communication wire, assembled with waterproof tape (and in some umbilicals wound similar to strands in a rope) to form a single unit. Some umbilicals also have included a hose for hot water, a pneumofathometer hose, and a strength member, such as a cable or strong line. It is strongly recommended that the air/gas umbilical be married to a strength member in a manner that al-

2.2 DESIGN PURPOSE All Kirby Morgan diving helmets are designed for use with an umbilical. WARNING: Only under very controlled conditions, i.e., non-moving water (such as swimming pools or calm lakes), should Kirby Morgan diving helmets be used with a self contained gas supply. There is no provision for surface swimming once the Scuba air supply is depleted. Adequate support personnel for the conditions must be assisting the diver to assure his safety.
Fig. 2.1 The diver must be tended at the surface at all times by a trained, qualified commercial diving tender.

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SL-27 MANUAL lows the strength member to receive the strain. This will help reduce the possibility of umbilical and umbilical fitting fatigue and possible failure. The umbilical is the divers lifeline to the diving control station. The diver must be tended at the surface at all times by a trained, qualified commercial diving tender. Never dive without a qualified tender holding your diving hose. The diving control station can be at the surface, in a diving bell, or in a submerged habitat. The diving control station is the center of the air/gas supply, communications with the diver, and diving procedures. The station can be as simple as a tender with a set of “phones” (communication amplifier), or as complex as a control van in the midst of a saturation system. The helmet demand regulator and side block assembly have been designed to operate with a supply pressure from 115 psig (8 bar) over ambient pressure to 225 psig (16 bar) over ambient pressure. This wide operating range allows flexibility when using various gas supply systems. For maximum breathing performance it is desirable to maintain an over bottom supply pressure of 135 psig (9.3 bar) when diving to depths of 100 fsw (30 msw), and 175-225 psi (12.0-15.5 bar) over bottom when diving to depths in excess of 100 fsw (30 msw). With the many different gas supply console configurations in use, it is important to insure that the gas supply system used, is capable of supplying the helmet with the necessary pressure and flow of gas to allow the diver to work safely and efficiently. In countries that have adopted C.E. standards only C.E. certified supply systems and components may be used in conjunction with the helmet. 2.3 FIRST USE OF YOUR KIRBY MORGAN DIVING HELMET When you first receive your Kirby Morgan diving helmet, carefully unpack it and examine it for any damage that may have occurred during shipment. Use the inspection sheet provided to ensure that no damage has occurred. The purchaser must contact the freight carrier and/or the DSI dealer if the helmet has been damaged in shipment. Be sure to complete the enclosed warranty card and return it to DSI immediately. No warranty claims will be honored without a correctly completed warranty card on file at DSI. CAUTION: DSI must have your current address to assure that you receive all safety notices and other important information concerning the helmet. Please notify DSI of any change of address.

DANGER: Decompression diving always involves the risk of decompression sickness. Omitted decompression due to loss of gas supply or other accidents can cause serious injury or death. The use of the SL-27 cannot prevent this type of injury. Diving Systems International manufactures two complete Dive Control Systems, the DCS-2A™ with integrated communications and pneumofathometer, and DCS-3™, with integrated pneumofathometer. These portable systems can be operated on either a high pressure air supply or on a low pressure compressor. Both Dive Control Systems have specially designed high pressure regulators that reduce high pressure air and provide an adequate flow to support divers to a depth of 130 fsw (40 msw) WARNING: High pressure supply regulators and associated piping systems for surface supplied diving with Kirby Morgan helmets and masks must be capable of delivering a minimum of 3.2 acfm to the diver at depth. Only systems that can deliver the required gas flow should be used.

2.4 INITIAL ADJUSTMENTS TO YOUR SUPERLITE-27 Before using the helmet for the first time, it must be checked and adjusted for proper fit. There are several adjustments that must be made to provide a more comfortable fit when wearing the helmet.

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SL-27 MANUAL 2.4.1 Head Cushion The fit of the helmet is primarily determined by the layers of open cell foam that fill the head cushion bag (40). The center top/rear foam in the SuperLite-27 is very dense to reduce compression and spring-back. This reduces the tendency of the helmet to ride up when underwater. Do not replace this rigid foam with a soft foam. A softer foam is used on the sides and around the bottom of the head cushion. The diver’s head can be moved forward into the oral nasal mask (50) by adding layers of additional foam at the rear of the head cushion. The diver’s head can be moved up or down in the helmet by decreasing or increasing the foam pads at the top of the head cushion. Usually, a diver with a small head will require all the foam that comes with a new hat. A diver with a larger head will need to remove a layer of foam in the center top and back of the head cushion. The foam may be cut with scissors to provide a better fit, or more foam can be added to give a tighter fit. The chin cushion (41) on the SuperLite-27 can also be adjusted if necessary. 2.4.2 Trimming the Neck dam If your helmet is new, or any time you replace the neck dam (140), it must be adjusted to fit you. New neck dams are cone shaped and will probably be too tight if not properly trimmed. WARNING: Never dive with a neck dam that is too tight. A neck dam that is too tight could cause the diver to pass out due to pressure on the carotid artery in the neck. Trim only 1/4 inch off the neck dam at a time. When you are done, the neck dam must be just tight enough so that it does not leak. This may feel a bit snug out of the water, but will be very comfortable underwater. If you have a neoprene neck dam, it may also need to be stretched for it to fit properly. Trim the neck dam until it is still snug, then stretch it by sliding it over a Scuba tank and allowing it to sit overnight. If you still cannot get the proper fit by stretching the neck dam, it must be trimmed further. Do not trim more than 1/4 inch at a time. CAUTION: Avoid trimming neoprene neck dams too much. Neoprene neck dams will loosen over time as they are used and the cells of the foam neoprene break down. If you trim the neck dam too much it will be too loose and will leak. Trim the neck dam until it is snug, then stretch it before use.

138

139

140

141

142 143 148 144 152 149 150 147 145 146

151 152 153

154 158

155

The latex neck dam must be trimmed to fit your neck. To trim the neck dam, have your tender hold the neck dam opening so that the two “edges” of the neck dam are parallel. The neck dam must be under slight tension but must not be stretched beyond its normal length. Trim the neck dam with the largest, sharpest scissors available, in order to make as few cuts as possible. There must be no jagged edges on the neck dam or it may tear.

156 157

Fig 2.2 - Neck Dam & Locking Collar components.

A neoprene neck dam that is too large may be tightened up by cutting a wedge out of the open end. Glue the cut edges back together using wet suit cement. Be sure to allow the modification of the neck dam at least 24 hours to dry.
13

SL-27 MANUAL DANGER: Be sure to use adequate ventilation when using wet suit cement. Wet suit cement fumes are toxic and can lead to unconsciousness or death if the cement is used in an enclosed space. Wet suit cement fumes can also cause long term damage to body tissues if you are exposed to it at low levels on a frequent basis. As the neoprene neck dam ages, it will become looser, due to a natural breakdown of the cells. This is particularly true if the helmet is locked in and out of a bell or saturation system. As the neck dam becomes worn it will need replacement to ensure that it seals properly. 2.4.3 Adjusting the Neck Pad Another component that controls the fit of the SuperLite-27 is the adjustable neck pad (155). The neck pad, which is mounted on the locking collar, slides back and forth along the locking collar body for adjustment to fit different divers. Two screws (157) and mount nuts (154) lock the neck pad plate to the locking collar. Loosening these screws from the mount nuts allows the neck pad to be adjusted. The following procedure requires a diver and tender. You do not need to have the air on to the helmet if you do not use the neck dam ring assembly. If the neck dam assembly is used, the diver must have air to the helmet to breathe. With the helmet face down on a suitable surface, pull and turn each of the sealed pull pins (130) until they are clear of their locking notch and the pins are fully extended. Open the locking collar/neck pad assembly (153-155) fully by lifting it away from the base of the helmet. Slightly loosen the screws until the neck pad and plate can slide back and forth. Be sure the head cushion snaps are attached to the bottom of the helmet. Pick up the helmet and pull the nose block device (51) out fully. Position the helmet on your head so the oral nasal (50) is in the proper position on your face, covering your nose and mouth. Turn the sealed pull pins to the locking position with the ridge on the pins engaging the notch in the sleeve and the pins fully retracted. Tilt your head forward so the locking collar/neck pad assembly may be swung forward and
14

locked up into its closed position. The locking sealed pull pins must snap into place on the locking collar. Lift your head back up and slide the neck pad forward until it is snug but comfortable. Mark the position of the neck pad on the locking collar using an indelible marker. Open the locking sealed pull pins and let the locking collar open. Tilt your head forward and open the locking collar so the screws can be tightened. Position the neck pad plate on the locking collar at the marked position and tighten the screws on each side. After the adjustment screws are tightened, tilt your head forward and lock the locking collar/neck pad assembly. Move your head in various positions making sure the pad is adjusted for comfort. The helmet is now adjusted for your head. It should need no further adjustment unless another diver uses the helmet. 2.5 PRE DRESS-IN PROCEDURE Before dressing in for a dive, inspection of the helmet system must be made to be sure it is in proper working order. This must be done well in advance of the dive so any problems can be fixed without delaying the dive. The following steps are part of the recommended daily maintenance. 2.5.1 Pre-Dive Visual Inspection Visually inspect the exterior and interior of the helmet. 1) The demand regulator cover assembly (101) should not be dented. 2) The neck dam (140) must not be torn or punctured. WARNING: There must be no holes in the neck dam. If there are any holes in the neck dam the helmet could leak or flood. In addition, the demand regulator will not operate properly. Drowning could result. 3) Inspect the O-ring (138) on the neck dam ring assembly (148). The O-ring must be in place and undamaged.

SL-27 MANUAL DANGER: The O-ring on the neck dam ring assembly on the SuperLite-27 must be in place and in good condition. It must be properly lubricated for smooth operation. Without a proper functioning O-ring the helmet will leak and possibly flood. Drowning could result. 4) Inspect the bent tube (14) that supplies breathing gas to the regulator. There must be no dents or kinks in the assembly. 5) Inspect the face port (77). It must be in good condition. 6) Be sure the communications wires are hooked up and there are no loose connections. 7) Inspect the oral/nasal mask (50). Make sure it is on the regulator mount nut properly. 8) Inspect the sealed pull pin (130) on each side of the helmet. They must engage and disengage properly. 9) Make sure the head cushion (40) and chin cushion (41) are properly fastened inside the helmet. DANGER: All parts on Kirby Morgan diving helmets must be adjusted to their proper torque specifications. See Appendix 1 for a complete listing of torque specifications for each part. Failure to adjust parts to the recommended specifications could lead to helmet failure and accidents. This could be fatal. 2.6 PREPARING THE HELMET FOR DIVING 2.6.1 Clean Face Port Thoroughly clean the face port with a soft cloth and a mild liquid detergent solution. DO NOT USE ANY AEROSOL SPRAYS ON THE LEXAN PORT! 2.6.2 Check Moving Parts Check all moving parts, such as the regulator adjustment knob (98), the defogger control knob (3), emergency knob (24), and the nose block device knob (85) to ensure smooth and proper operation. 2.6.3 Check Communications Check the communications system for proper operation. Put the helmet on and talk to an assistant on the amplifier. If you are by yourself, with the helmet off take the helmet near the amplifier and tap on each earphone (132,133) and the microphone (131), listening to the taps on the amplifier/speaker. Talk into the amplifier/speaker feeling the vibration on each earphone and the microphone with your fingertips. 2.6.4 One Way Valve Check There are two ways to check the one way valve (37). Check both ways if possible. 1) Leaving the emergency valve knob open (on) (24) and not hooked up to the supply hose, try to suck air out of the adapter (36). If any air comes out, the one way valve must be rebuilt or replaced.

Fig 2.3 - Installing the head cushion.

10) Check the screws (80) on the port retainer (78). They must be adjusted to the proper torque setting specifications noted in Appendix 1 (page 88) of this manual. Binder head screws are used in this application for their self locking characteristics. Overtightening may strip out the threaded inserts in the helmet shell (58).

WARNING: the one way valve must be tested daily, prior to commencement of diving operations. Failure of the one way valve could cause serious injury or death.
15

SL-27 MANUAL

Fig 2.4 - Checking the one way valve.

2) Prior to attaching (or pressuring up) the umbilical, close the emergency valve knob (24), attach and pressure up the emergency hose. Shut off the defogger control knob (3) and screw in the adjustment knob on the regulator (98) all the way. With the emergency hose pressurized, turn on the emergency valve knob. If any gas escapes out the end of the adapter, the one way valve is faulty and must be rebuilt or replaced. A one way valve repair kit is available for rebuilding these valves (DSI Part # 525-330). WARNING: Never dive if the one way valve is not operating properly. If the hose or breathing gas/air fitting breaks near the surface a serious injury could result to the diver’s lungs and/or eyes. In extreme cases this could be fatal. The one way valve must be tested daily prior to the commencement of diving operations. 2.7 EMERGENCY GAS SYSTEM If the divers, main gas supply fails, the diver must have another source of gas that will enable a safe return to the dive station or to a point where a normal gas supply can be reestablished. For this reason, an emergency gas supply (bail out) cylinder must be used on all dives. The bail out cylinder is normally worn on the back using a combination backpack and lifting harness. In some cases divers wear a lifting harness with a independent backpack for securing the emergency gas cylinder. Regardless which configuration is used, a good quality lifting harness should always be worn by the diver. The harness provides
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Fig 2.5 - Diver donning a complete bail out system.

an attachment point where the umbilical can be secured to the diver and a secure lift point when removing an injured or unconscious diver from the water. An emergency bail out cylinder must be used for all diving operations. In some cases, a very small emergency bail out cylinder is mounted horizontally across the lower rear or front of the torso. Selection of the size of the cylinder is usually determined by the hazards associated with the diving job. When determining the size of the emergency gas cylinder to use, several factors must be considered. The divers depth, the length of time the diver may be without the main gas supply, and the gas consumption rate. Regardless of the cylinder used, it should be of sufficient volume to allow the diver to ascend at a normal rate or transit to a point where a normal gas supply can be reestablished. In European countries that have adopted C.E. certification, only C.E. certified cylinders are allowed to be used and must have a minimum charged capacity available to the diver of 1400 N/l (50 scf). The emer-

gency gas supply must be fitted with a good quality first stage regulator that has an intermediate pressure adjusted to between 135-150 psig (9.3-10.5bar). The regulator must be C.E. approved and have a DSI over pressure relief valve installed (Part # 200-017). The relief must be adjusted to start lifting at approximately 20 psig (1.4bar) above the regulator intermediate setting. The purpose of the relief valve is to allow pressure to vent off in the event the first stage regulator develops a leak or creeps. Without a pressure relief valve, the hose could rupture and the emergency gas supply would be lost. Most commercial divers wear a harness (separate from the weight belt) that is used for several purposes. The harness is fitted with large metal rings (usually brass or stainless steel). The umbilical is hooked into one of these rings to keep any strain off the helmet. In addition, the rings on the harness are used to hang tools and other equipment. Usually the harness is also designed to provide a means of lifting an unconscious diver from the water. This harness is the best method of securing the emergency breathing gas to the diver. A small tank can be mounted horizontally on the lower rear or front, while larger tanks are usually mounted vertically in the center back similar to a Scuba diver’s tank. Some harness designs incorporate a cloth enclosure into which the tank fits. The entire tank, valve, and regulator are enclosed in fabric. This helps to prevent snagging. The compressed air/gas tank must be fitted with a regulator to reduce the pressure to less than 225 psig (16 bar) ambient diver pressure. The helmet cannot properly handle more pressure without modification. The D.S.I. SuperFlow® first stage Scuba regulator (Part #305-161) is the best device for this use. These regulators reduce the tank pressure to approximately 145 psig (9.9 bar). Connect the first stage hose with a set of quick disconnecting locking sleeves to the emergency valve assembly located on the side block. Other good quality high performance Scuba regulators may also be used. The first stage regulator must have at least two low pressure ports. One port is used for the connector hose to the emergency valve and the second is used to install an overpressure relief valve (Part #200-017).

SL-27 MANUAL If the first stage develops a leak, the full pressure of the tank could be placed on the low pressure hose. This could cause the hose to burst. The overpressure relief valve will bleed off any leak. WARNING: A standard Scuba submersible pressure gauge must be connected to the high pressure port on the first stage so that the diver can monitor his emergency supply. WARNING: Never connect the main gas supply hose from the diving control station to the emergency valve assembly. If this is done there is no one way valve protection for the diver in the event of damage to the umbilical or related equipment. The diver could be exposed to a serious “squeeze”. The diver, at a minimum, must have his suit, harness, and tank of emergency gas in place prior to connecting the quick disconnect hose for the emergency supply. Make sure the emergency valve knob is turned off, otherwise the emergency gas supply will be used up without the diver’s knowledge. Once the emergency supply hose is connected, the tank valve is turned on to pressurize the hose. In the event of an emergency due to a loss of the main gas supply, the emergency valve knob located on the side block is turned on supplying gas to the side block assembly and the demand regulator assembly. 2.8 SETTING UP TO DIVE 2.8.1 Flushing Out the Umbilical Before connecting the umbilical to the helmet, the umbilical must be flushed out to remove any dirt, moisture, or other debris. Connect the topside umbilical end to the topside diver control console. Insure there is no pressure in the divers umbilical. Carefully uncap the helmet end of the umbilical and hold securely while pointing in a safe direction, then slowly bring up gas pressure to approximately 25-40 psig (1.7-2.7 bar). Allow the gas to flow for at least l5 seconds, then secure. If the helmet is not going to be used immediately, it should be recapped.
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SL-27 MANUAL 2.8.2 Connecting the Umbilical to the Helmet When you connect the hose to the helmet be sure to use a wrench to hold the adapter, or inlet fitting, and a second wrench to turn the swivel fitting on the hose. If this is not done, the adapter will turn inside the one way valve. If this happens repeatedly the threads will wear and the valve will need to be replaced. The connection between the hose and the helmet must only be made up “snug”. Excessive force will deform and ruin the adapter. A second wrench must be used when the helmet is disconnected as well, otherwise the adapter and/or the one way valve assembly may become loose and fail to make a seal. If you are using waterproof connectors for your communications, take extra care in handling these pieces. To connect the male and female parts, align the large pin on the male connector with the yellow mark on the female connector. Press the two connectors together until you hear a distinct “pop”. Do not twist the connectors. Tape the two connectors with a bit of electrical tape to prevent them from pulling apart.

Fig 2.7 - Connecting the waterproof connectors.

To separate the connectors remove the tape, grasp them at the thickest part, place your thumbs against each other, and push apart until the connectors are disconnected. Do not twist the connectors. Do not pull them apart while holding onto the thinner part of the wire that is away from the connectors. 2.8.3 Opening the Breathing Gas Supply to the Helmet Prior to turning on the air supply for the helmet, check to see that the free flow valve is closed and the regulator adjustment knob is all the way in. Slowly bring up the gas pressure to the helmet to between 115-135 (8-9.3 bar). Slowly back out on the regulator adjustment knob (98) until a slight free flow develops, then turn the adjustment knob in (clockwise) until the free flow just stops.

Fig 2.6 - Connecting the umbilical to the helmet.

DANGER: If the one way valve or the adapter is loosened this will allow breathing gas to leak out of the breathing system. This could also result in a loss of all pressure to the helmet, leaving the diver with nothing to breathe.

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SL-27 MANUAL To properly check the breathing system on all of the Kirby Morgan diving helmets you must completely don the helmet. 2.8.4 Fogging Prevention A thin film of anti-fogging solution may be applied to the interior of the Lexan® face port prior to the dive to help prevent fogging during the dive. A mild liquid dish washing detergent, or other commercially available anti-fogging solutions, may be applied with a soft rag or paper towel to the interior of the port. The diver should use a solution which has been found satisfactory in the past. However, do not use an aerosol spray on the Lexan™ lens. The propellants in some aerosol dispensers cause damage to the Lexan™. DANGER: Never use any aerosol propelled sprays near the face port of the SuperLite-27. The Freon propellant used in these aerosols can invisibly damage the Lexan™ face port and cause it to shatter upon impact from any strong blow. If the face port fails underwater the helmet will flood and drowning may result.

Fig 2.8 - Donning the neck dam.

2.8.5 Donning The Super Lite - 27 All donning procedures must be done by the diver until he is thoroughly at home with the helmet. This will train for familiarity. To dress in, the neck dam ring assembly must first be pulled down over the diver’s head. Prior to donning the neck dam ring assembly it must first be properly lubricated if you are using a latex neck dam. Use only pure talcum powder to lubricate the neck dam. Never use scented powders, such as baby powder. These contain oils that will damage the latex. Be sure to loosen the chin strap (146) prior to donning the neck dam. To loosen the strap, hold the neck dam/ring assembly with your right hand, place your thumb under the rounded end of the plastic buckle and lift away from the neck dam.

To don the neck dam, hold the neck dam/ring assembly (148) vertically, in front of your chest, so that the large end of the assembly where the pull strap (142) is mounted is on top. The pull strap and chin strap (146) should both be facing your chest. Spread the neck dam opening by pulling against the palms of both hands while supporting the weight of the assembly by grasping the sides of the rings with your thumbs. Do not press the tips of your fingers into the latex neck dam material or you may tear it. Lift the neck dam over your head. Both the pull strap and the chin strap should be on the underside of the neck dam ring assembly, closest to your head. Carefully pull the neck dam ring assembly down over your head and adjust the neck dam. The neck dam (140) is always turned up. This is very important! With the neck dam turned down, the helmet will vent air from the neck dam causing the regulator to free flow. This will make the helmet very uncomfortable. Always keep the neck dam turned up!

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SL-27 MANUAL

Fig 2.10 - Donning the helmet. Fig 2.9 - Adjusting the neck dam.

The neck dam ring assembly must be oriented so the brass “tongue” on the front of the neck dam ring assembly is pointed to the front of your body, in front of and below your chin. You should be able to look down and see the brass tongue sticking out from underneath the neck dam ring assembly when you are wearing the assembly and it is oriented properly. With the diver holding the helmet, the tender should now connect the quick disconnect fittings for the bailout supply. Open the regulator adjustment knob and the defogger control knob for a steady flow from both just prior to the diver dressing into the helmet. With the helmet face down, pull the sealed pull pins and open the locking collar/neck pad assembly fully. Be sure the head cushion is attached to the bottom of the helmet. Pull the nose block device knob out all the way. With the locking collar/neck pad assembly fully open, lift the helmet and place it over your head. Lower the helmet onto the back of your head first, then pivot it forward until your face is in position against the oral nasal mask. The locking collar/neck pad assembly must be open and hanging down behind your shoulders.

Now, the neck dam/ring assembly (148) is resting directly under the hat on the diver’s shoulders. The diver inserts the tongue on the neck dam/ring assembly into the swing tongue catch on the bottom front of the helmet. Grasp the base of the helmet on either side with your fingers and push the neck dam/ring up into the neck ring on the base of the helmet . The neck dam ring fits very snugly in the neck ring. The diver then tilts his head and the helmet forward and swings the locking collar up over his shoulders.

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Fig. 2.11 - The diver inserts the tongue on the neck dam/ring assembly into the swing tongue catch.

SL-27 MANUAL

Fig. 2.12 - Push the neck dam/ring up into the neck ring on the base of the helmet .

Fig. 2.13 - Both sealed pull pins must properly click into position on the base of the helmet.

The sealed pull pins must be in the locking position. If they are in the open position, rotate until they snap into the locking position. Grab the neck ring on the helmet with your fingers on the outside of the ring and using your thumbs, push the locking collar/neck pad assembly up into position until it locks with the sealed pull pins. If you have not positioned the sealed pull pins into the locking position you may do it now with the locking collar/neck pad assembly in place.

Adjust the chin strap by pulling on the free end of the strap until it is comfortably snug.

DANGER: Both sealed pull pins must properly click into position on the base of the helmet. If the pins are not engaged correctly the neck dam/ring assembly may not seal and the helmet could flood. The diver could drown as a result. Do not dive the helmet unless the pins are operating correctly.

Fig. 2.14 - Adjust the chin strap

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SL-27 MANUAL 2.8.6 Testing the Breathing System Test the defogger system by turning on and off the defogger control knob (3). The regulator (113) should be adjusted by turning the adjustment knob (98) out until a slight steady flow starts, then back in until the flow just stops. Next, the demand regulator system is checked for proper function: breathe in and out. Inhalation and exhalation effort should be nearly unnoticeable. Press in on the purge button in the regulator cover (101). This should produce a strong burst of breathing gas. 2.8.7 Sealing Integrity Check If there is any doubt that the helmet is sealing properly, perform the following test prior to diving. Turn the supply gas off at the dive control system and bleed the umbilical. To perform this test, the diver must have an assistant standing by. The assistant should be in control of the gas supply console so that the air may be turned on instantly, or the diver must be ready to run a hand between his neck and the sealing neck dam inorder to pull the neck dam away from the neck to allow breathing. With the neck dam ring on the diver’s head, the helmet is installed and the locking collar closed. When the diver attempts to inhale, a suction on the neck dam is formed, indicating he is achieving a good seal. The diver must then turn the air on immediately so that he can breathe. If the diver does not turn the air on he will not be able to breathe, unless the neck dam is pulled away from his neck. DANGER: Do not perform this test without an assistant stationed at the gas supply console. Do not perform this test unless the diver is stationed immediately adjacent to the diver’s air manifold and you are certain the air is on to the manifold. If the diver is unable to flow air to the helmet, either through the umbilical or the bailout, he may not be able to remove it easily. To break the seal in this situation, the diver must put his hand between the neck dam and the neck, and pull the neck dam away from the neck. A tender must be standing by to assist the diver in removing the helmet if needed. To remove the SuperLite-27, start by pulling out (forward) on each sealed pull pin and turning so each remains in the open position. Tilt your head, and the helmet, forward and swing the locking collar assembly back behind your shoulders. Tilt your head upright again and push the swinging tongue catch (126) forward with one hand and hold it in this position. Insert the four fingers of your hand between the chin strap (146) and the neck dam (140). Grasp the chin strap and pull down on it, towards your chest. This will break the seal between the neck dam/neck ring and the helmet neck ring on the base of the helmet. Once the seal is broken the neck ring assembly will come loose from the helmet.

Fig. 2.15 - Push the swinging tongue catch forward.

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SL-27 MANUAL 2.9.2 Attaching the Umbilical to the Harness The umbilical must now be hooked to the diver’s harness by means of a suitable clip that is bound to the umbilical. Some divers and companies prefer a quick release clip and others prefer a clip that is screwed together so the diver cannot easily remove it from his harness. The securing of the umbilical keeps the pull of the hose at the diver’s harness and not on the helmet. WARNING: Never dive without attaching the umbilical to some type of harness or clip on the diver’s body. Never allow the umbilical to pull on the helmet directly or the diver could suffer a neck injury. 2.9.3 Diver Dons Helmet The diver dons the helmet as per Section 2.8.5 for the SuperLite-27. 2.9.4 Diver Check Gas Flow Systems The diver must check out the breathing system himself as the tender finishes dressing him. Operate the defogger valve, the demand regulator, and the purge button to assure yourself of proper operation before entering the water. 2.9.5 Communications Check The communications system, sending and receiving, should be checked at this point. 2.9.6 Diver Ready The diver is now ready to enter the water. He should be assisted to the water if needed. If a welding lens is being used, make sure it is hinged up all the way if the diver is making a jump entry. We do not recommend jump entries. A quick overall inspection by the tender is done and the diver is given the OK. 2.9.7 Water Entry and Descent The tender must make sure there is a sufficient length of umbilical clear if the diver is using a jump entry. There must be no chance of the umbilical hanging up when the diver jumps. Also, the defogger valve should be turned on to overpressure the helmet to prevent the possibility of water pressure from inverting the helmet exhaust valve when hitting the water.
23

Fig. 2.16 - Grasp the chin strap and pull down on it.

Pull the nose block device knob (85) away from your face and lift the helmet off of your head. A good tender will be prepared to help the diver with the removal of the helmet as required. Reach in and spread the neck dam, pulling against the sides of the neck dam (140) with the palms of both hands. Slide the neck dam/neck ring assembly (148) forward so your chin will clear the chin strap. Lift the neck dam over your head. 2.9 DIVING PROCEDURES 2.9.1 Standing By to Dive The diver may wear the neck dam ring assembly without discomfort if he is standing by to make a dive. However, the helmet itself must always be the last thing put on before the diver enters the water. Everything else must be ready to go before the diver puts the helmet on so he won’t have to support the weight of the helmet while out of the water.

SL-27 MANUAL The diver must report to the surface immediately after the entry. It is a good policy to descend 10 or 20 FSW (3-6 MSW), pause and check the regulator adjustment knob to ensure adjustment for the least breathing resistance. (The purpose of this adjustment knob is to allow the diver the ability to compensate for variations in umbilical supply pressure. This adjustment device operates by simply increasing or decreasing the amount of spring bias tension on the demand regulator inlet valve. The intent of this bias adjustment device is strictly to allow the diver to make adjustments for variations in umbilical supply pressure. This adjustment device is not intended as a minimum-maximum device. Minimum and maximum applies to supply pressure only. The adjustment knob should be adjusted by the diver to be at the easiest breathing setting at all times. Diving a DSI helmet or band mask with a bias setting greater than that just necessary to keep the demand valve from free flowing increases the work of breathing and reduces the diver's ability to perform heavy work.) Then the diver checks in with the surface before descending to the job. If a closed bell is being used, the diver enters the water from the bell and pauses for a short time outside the trunk until he is sure all systems are operating properly. During the decent the communications must be checked again and the diver supply pressure should be adjusted as necessary to maintain the required over-bottom pressure. It may be necessary for the diver to readjust the demand regulator by means of the adjustment knob (47) once at the work site to compensate for the variation in umbilical supply pressure. 2.10 EMERGENCY PROCEDURES 2.10.1 Flooding In the event of partial or complete flooding, the diver may clear the helmet quickly by tilting the helmet to the left and activating the defogger control knob (3) or by pressing in on the manual purge button in the center of the regulator cover (101). The water dump valve (71-75) is located on the lower left side of the helmet. The opening in this valve is much larger than the opening in the regulator exhaust valve. By placing this valve in the lowest position water will exit the helmet more easily.
24

After clearing, cautiously check for additional flooding. If the helmet continues to take on water, return to the diving station, swimming with the water dump valve positioned at the lowest part of the hat: that is with the diver’s face forward and slightly tilted to the left. Keep the free flow knob on. This increases the air/gas pressure slightly inside the hat and keeps the water out. Any incoming water is automatically purged. 2.10.2 Inhalation Resistance If breathing becomes difficult, adjust the demand regulator adjustment knob (47), for easier breathing by rotating the adjustment knob counter clockwise. If the breathing does not get noticeably better, press the purge button in the regulator cover (101). If a surge of gas does not flow with this action, open the emergency valve (27). If the flow is noticeably better, immediately notify topside that you are on emergency gas. Insure your umbilical is clear and return to the stage or decent line. The diver should stay in communication with topside personnel and make preparations to abort the dive. The console operator should check to ensure the supply pressure to the diver is at the proper pressure. 2.10.3 Gas Flow Stops A stop of flow in the demand regulator system (113) usually indicates the main gas supply has stopped. The diver should first open the emergency valve (27) by turning the knob (24). If there is still no flow from the demand regulator, the defogger valve (1-10) should be opened. Keep in mind that if the defogger valve is left open, the bail out bottle will drain very quickly, particularly if the diver is deep. Immediately notify topside, check to insure your umbilical is clear and return to the diving station using the emergency breathing supply. Avoid making a rapid ascent if at all possible.

DANGER: Rapid ascent is dangerous. It can lead to air embolism or decompression sickness. Air/gas embolism can cause immediate loss of consciousness and/or death. Even on a no decompression dive, a rapid ascent may cause decompression sickness. A diver must only make a rapid ascent when he is in immediate danger of death by drowning or asphyxiation. Once at the surface, or inside the bell, the diver may remove the helmet if needed. 2.10.4 Demand Regulator Free Flow If the demand regulator free flows, adjust the knob (98) in (clockwise) until it stops. If the free flow cannot be stopped, the dive should be aborted. Even if there is no serious problem to the diver, the dive should be aborted and the problem with the regulator corrected. 2.11 POST DIVE PROCEDURES 2.11.1 Removing the Equipment After the diver is well clear of the water he may remove the helmet. If the diver is working out of a stage he must not remove the helmet until the stage is on deck. WARNING: Never remove the diving helmet while you are in the stage. If you fall out of the stage with the helmet off but still attached to your harness it may be very difficult to swim. Drowning may result.

SL-27 MANUAL behind your shoulders. You will need to pull down on the chin strap and the swing tongue catch to break the seal between the neck dam ring and the helmet ring and to disengage the neck ring from the swing tongue catch. A good tender will be prepared to help the diver with the removal of the helmet as required. The emergency gas supply hose may be disconnected while the diver leaves the helmet on or while he holds the hat after removal. The quick disconnect makes this procedure very easy. The tender should then unfasten the umbilical from the harness and take the helmet from the diver and set it aside. (Closing the locking collar/neck pad assembly onto the helmet before setting the hat down on a rough deck will help protect the helmet neck ring from damage). The harness and bailout bottle is then removed. 2.11.3 Storage of the Helmet Between Dives If the helmet is not going to be used for a period of time, the head cushion (40), should be removed. The head cushion should be dried and replaced in the hat before storage. The regulator adjustment knob (98) should be unscrewed all the way out (counterclockwise) until the next dive. When the helmet is completely dry, or the diver is ready to leave the job, the helmet should be stored in the carrying bag to protect it. If the head cushion becomes wet it may be dried out by removing it from the helmet, squeezing excess water out, and letting the head cushion hang dry or putting it in a clothes drier.

2.11.2 Removing the SuperLite-27 Remove the helmet by pulling the sealed pull pins out (forward) and turning them until they are locked open in the extended position. Tilt your head and the helmet forward and swing the locking collar back

WARNING: Use only the air dry setting when drying head cushion foam in a drier. Use of a higher setting could cause the foam to melt or start a fire.

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SL-27 MANUAL

NOTES

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SL-27 MANUAL

CHAPTER 3.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
3.1 GENERAL The SuperLite-27 is a highly reliable diving helmet which should not malfunction if proper preventative maintenance procedures are followed. Most problems encountered in using the helmet can be easily remedied. The following information covers most potential operating difficulties.

3.2 COMMUNICATIONS MALFUNCTION Symptoms Probable Cause Remedy

No sound at either com box or Communication box not on. helmet. Communications incorrectly hooked up. Communications not hooked up. Communicator not functional. Communications weak or broken up. Communications only work when wire is wiggled back and forth. Communications only work when connector (137) is wiggled back and forth. Diver speech weak or not working. No sound at either communicator or helmet. Terminals in helmet covered with corrosion. Break in diver's communication wire.

Activate switch and adjust volume. Switch terminal wires. Plug into terminals. Replace communicator. Clean terminal (136) with wire brush to bright, shiny metal. Splice wire if damage is minor. Replace wire if damage is major. If connector is suspect, remove from line and test line for integrity prior to replacing connector. Replace microphone as per manual. (Section 7.15.5)

Defogger valve can't be shut off. Helmet free flows through Seat assembly (10) damaged. defogger. Defogger valve will not flow g as . Defogger valve will not flow gas. No air in umbilical. Foreign matter in side block (12), or one way valve (37).

CHAPTER 4.0 INSPECTION/MAINTENANCE TIMETABLE FOR SUPERLITE-27
Routine and preventative maintenance is critical and must be done on a routine basis. All parts and components of the helmet have a useful service life and eventually will require replacement. Some items when properly maintained can go many years before replacement is necessary. It is mandatory that a routine and periodic schedule of maintenance, inspection, and testing be carried out. Section 4.0 delineates the recommended minimum maintenance intervals. Helmets used in contaminated waters or in welding, burning and jetting operations must be serviced and inspected more frequently. If a situation arises that casts any doubt as to the serviceability of a part or component it should be replaced. If the user is in doubt about the servicability or just has questions in general contact your local DSI authorized repair facility or DSI at Tel805-965-8538.

CHAPTER 5.0 GENERAL PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
5.1 INTRODUCTION This section covers the preventative maintenance necessary on the SuperLite-27 diver’s helmet. A helmet that is kept clean and in good repair will offer far better service to the user. This helmet is designed for easy access to all areas for proper inspection and servicing. Numbers appearing in parenthesis below are “location” numbers that are used in the blow apart illustration at the rear of this manual. 5.2 REQUIRED TOOLS, CLEANING AGENTS, LUBRICATION All Diving Systems Internal Helmets and Masks are designed with the professional diver in mind. Most maintenance can be performed by the diver using common tools and this manual. There are some repairs however, that must be accomplished only by DSI authorized repair facilities. This includes fiberglass and helmet neck ring repairs, face port inserts and sealed pin overhauls. For technical assistance please telephone your nearest authorized dealer or call Diving Systems International at (805) 965 8538. Every diver should carry sufficient tools and spare parts to maintain his/her helmet in top working condition. It is very important to use wrenches of the correct size rather than adjustable wrenches when possible. Adjustable wrenches tend to slip and can round the edges of soft brass parts. The following wrenches and tools are required to maintain the SuperLite-27: Torque wrench with the following attachments: 1 3/8 inch crows foot 7/16 inch open end wrench 9/16 inch open end wrench 5/8 inch open end wrench 11/16 inch open end wrench 3/4 inch open end wrench 13/16 inch open end wrench 7/8 inch open end wrench 1 inch open end wrench
Fig. 5.1 - Tools required to do proper maintenance on the SuperLite-27.

SL-27 MANUAL tie wraps: DSI Part # 520-042 Silicone grease Loctite™ 222 Thread locker #320, 400, 600 wet/dry sandpaper rubbing compound automotive wax clean rags 5.2.1 Component and Parts Cleaning The helmet and components should only be cleaned using a mild solution of dishwashing detergent such as JOY ™ or Dawn ™ hand dishwashing detergent. Parts that have corrosion should be washed and scrubbed with a nylon bristle brush and then soaked in a solution of 50% white vinegar and water for 3060 minutes followed by a light brushing and a good fresh water rinse. Helmet liners and rubber components should be cleaned using a mild soapy solution followed by a good rinsing and air-dried. DO NOT use hair dryers or high heat to dry the rubber or fabric components, high temperatures will severely reduce the serviceability of these components. To clean parts heavily encrusted with salt we recommend a dilute solution of white vinegar and a toothbrush. 5.2.2 Component and Parts Lubrication All parts on the helmet that require lubrication must be lubricated sparingly with food grade silicone grease. DSI recommends Dow corning 111 or equivalent. If the helmet is intended to be used with breathing mixtures greater than 50% oxygen, it should be cleaned for oxygen service, and components requiring lubrication should be lubricated with a suitable oxygen compatible lubricant such as Krytox ™ or Christo lube ™. DO NOT USE AEROSOL SPRAY LUBRICANTS. Many aerosol propellants will damage plastic. Avoid lubricant contact with plastic parts.

DANGER: Never use any aerosol propelled sprays near the face port of the SuperLite-27. The Freon propellent used in these aerosols can invisibly damage the polycarbonate face port and cause it to shatter upon impact from any strong blow. If the face port fails underwater the helmet will flood and drowning may result. DANGER: The standard SuperLite-27 is not intended for oxygen service as it comes from the factory. If the user intends to use this helmet for such service, all parts must be cleaned for oxygen safety, oxygen compatible O-rings must be installed, and lubrication with an oxygen safe lubricant must be maintained. Only lubricants such as Krytox or Christo lube™ are acceptable for oxygen service. DANGER: In-water decompression with oxygen is a specialized procedure. All parts of the diving system must be oxygen compatible and cleaned for oxygen service. Any part of the system (i.e., manifolds, hoses, fittings, etc.) which are exposed to compressed air must be considered contaminated and must not be used again until cleaned for oxygen service. 5.2.3 Teflon Tape All pipe thread fittings used on the DSI helmets, masks and components require sealing with Teflon tape. DO NOT USE LIQUID SEALANT. When installing Teflon tape on pipe threads, apply the tape starting two threads back from the end of the fitting. Apply the tape in a clockwise Direction under tension, 11/2 wraps is all that is needed. Applying more than 11/2 wraps of tape is not recommended. The use of more than 11/2 wraps could cause excess Teflon tape to travel into the breathing system. DANGER: Do not allow any excess Teflon tape to cover the end of the pipe thread fittings. Loose pieces of Teflon tape can interfere with the performance of helmet components and may block the diver's air supply. This could lead to death through suffocation.

DANGER: All parts on the SuperLite27 must be adjusted to their proper torque specifications. See Appendix 1 for a complete listing of torque specifications for each part. Failure to adjust parts to the recommended specifications could lead to helmet failure and accidents. This could be fatal.

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SL-27 MANUAL 5.2.4 RTV Sealant Certain Components used in almost all DSI helmets and masks use RTV adhesive / sealant to provide bonding and sealing. DSI recommends Dow Corning ™ RTV 732 multi purpose sealant. When sealant is applied the user must use care to insure excess sealant is wiped clean so as not to interfere with other components. Sealant should be allowed to cure for 24 hours before equipment is used. 5.2.5 Thread Locker DSI recommends Loctite ™ 222 as the thread locking compound that should be used on components that call for a thread locker. Threads should be clean and dry prior to applying thread locker. Ensure that all excess thread locker has been removed. Allow thread locker to cure for at least 3 hours prior to using the component. 5.3 GENERAL Each diver must establish his own minimum standards for the care of his helmet. We offer recommendations here with the suggestion that the diver establish for himself what is necessary to provide a good working unit. Use of the helmet in fresh water will require a timetable for maintenance procedures different from that when the helmet is used in salt water. Using the helmet in sea water while jetting in sand will necessitate increased maintenance. Use of the helmet in a heavy oil and/or chemical environment may make it necessary to replace rubber parts to assure proper function. 5.4 DAILY MAINTENANCE The following steps must be performed daily at the completion of diving operations. 1) Disconnect the helmet from the diving hose and bail-out bottle. Make sure the air is off and the breathing system of the helmet is unpressurized. To vent the system, open the free flow valve knob (3) and emergency valve knob (24) until all gas flow stops.
Fig. 5.2 - Cover the air inlet and emergency valve openings with dust caps when not in use.

WARNING: Never disconnect any hose from the helmet unless all gas has been vented from the hose first. If the hose is disconnected with pressure in the line the fittings may be damaged. In addition, the hose can whip about causing injury to anyone standing nearby.

2) Place a protective cap over both the air inlet (36) and the emergency valve inlet (19) to prevent foreign matter from entering the valves. 3) If the head cushion is wet, remove it from the helmet and rinse it with fresh water. The head cushion is fastened into the helmet with snap tabs and pulls out easily. To ensure that the head cushion is dry for future use you may want to remove the head cushion foam. However, do not remove the foam unless it is absolutely necessary. It will dry properly without removing the foam.
33

SL-27 MANUAL 4) If the head cushion is wet, the chin cushion (41) is probably wet, too. Like the head cushion, the chin cushion is fastened into the helmet with snap tabs. Remove it from the helmet, rinse it with fresh water, and allow it to dry. 5) Remove the communications assembly (135) from the helmet so it can dry completely. Avoid getting water on the oral nasal microphone and earphones. Remove the earphone covers from the earphones so they can dry completely. 6) Rinse the helmet thoroughly with fresh water. Turn the free flow valve knob (3), emergency valve knob (24), and regulator adjustment knob (98) while rinsing to prevent salt from accumulating under these valves. Run water under the regulator cover (101), and in the regulator body (90) through the air delivery tube located in the oral nasal (50). Operate the sealed pull pins (130) as you run water over them. Wipe the inside of the helmet out with a clean, damp rag. Do not depress the purge button while rinsing the regulator as this action will permit foreign matter back into the inlet valve and seat. 7) Screw the demand regulator adjustment knob (98) all the way out. This will prolong the life of the inlet valve seat (111) and keep the internal adjustment correct. 8) Lubricate the shaft of the nose block device (51) with silicone grease. 9) Rinse the neck dam assembly (148) and allow to dry. Remove the O-ring (138) from the neck dam ring, clean and lubricate. 10) If the neck dam is damaged (140) it must be replaced. 5.5 MONTHLY MAINTENANCE (OR BETWEEN JOBS) 5.5.1 Locking Collar Assembly and Helmet Ring Check the two sealed pull pins (130) to make sure they operate smoothly and engage the pins on the locking collar properly. If the sealed pull pins (130)stick or do not provide adequate tension it is essential to return your helmet to your
34

dealer or Diving Systems International for service. Do not attempt to service these mechanisms by yourself. DANGER: The sealed pull pins must operate smoothly with a positive action. If the pins do not release properly the diver may not be able to remove the helmet quickly if necessary. If the pins do not lock with a positive action the locking collar assembly will not lock properly and the helmet may come off the diver’s head. If this happens underwater, drowning could result.

5.5.2 Neck Dam Ring Assembly Inspect the neck dam (140) carefully. There must be no holes in the neck dam. If you are using a latex neck dam, the latex must be firm, not sticky. If there is any damage to the latex the neck dam must be replaced. Do not patch a latex neck dam. Apply talcum powder to the neck dam prior to storage and to prepare it for the next dive.

Fig. 5.3 - Check the neck dam for holes.

SL-27 MANUAL DANGER: Never patch a torn or punctured neck dam. If the patch comes off underwater the helmet could flood and/or the demand regulator assembly may not function properly. A damaged neck dam must be replaced. Inspect the O-ring (138) on the neck dam ring assembly. It must be in good condition with no nicks, tears, or cracking. Replace the O-ring if it shows signs of wear. 5.5.4 Communications Inspection Visually inspect the earphones (132, 133), microphone (131), wires, lugs, and communications posts (136). Test each component for proper operation. Connect to the deck amplifier and talk back and forth. Replace any weak earphone or microphone. Open the earphone rubber covers and remove the protectors. Allow to dry thoroughly. Replace defective earphones.

Fig. 5.5 Uncover the earphones so they may dry.

Fig. 5.4 - Removing the head cushion.

5.5.3 Head Cushion and Chin Cushion Remove the foam from the head cushion (40) and inspect it for wear. If the foam is worn or crumbling it must be replaced (order DSI Part #510-623). Inspect the chin cushion (41). It, too, must be in good condition. Replace it if the foam is worn or has started to crumble. Fig. 5.6 The nose block O-rings must be regularly lubricated.

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SL-27 MANUAL 5.5.5 Lubricate Nose Block O-Rings Tools Required: 7/16 inch Open End wrench 1) Unscrew the nose block device packing nut (84) and lubricate the two O-rings (82) and main shaft (51). Retighten the nut just to the point where the nose block device will still slide, but requires a firm push or pull. 2) Test the shaft to ensure that it will still slide freely at this time. If it does not, loosen or tighten the nut (84) just enough to permit the shaft to slide properly. 5.5.6 Lubricate Water Dump Valve 1) Remove the tie wrap (75) from the water dump shroud (74) by cutting it off. Take care not to damage the shroud. 2) Inspect the water dump valve and lubricate with a small amount of silicone grease. Rub the grease into the valve thoroughly leaving no excess lubricant to collect sand or other debris. Replace the shroud and install a new tie wrap. Cut the tail off the end of the tie wrap.

Fig. 5.7 - Removing the water dump shroud will expose the water dump valve. Lightly lubricate it with silicone grease or replace as needed.

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SL-27 MANUAL

CHAPTER 6.0 BREATHING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS
6.1 INTRODUCTION This chapter covers the maintenance and repair of all components of the breathing system. The breathing system includes the one way valve, the emergency valve, the side block, the bent tube assembly, the demand regulator, and the oral/nasal mask. All parts disassembled should be thoroughly cleaned using the methods described in chapter 5 section 5.2. Components that require the use of lubricants, sealing and thread locking compounds should also be done see chapter 5 section 5.2. Most fasteners have a torque value, it is imperative that all fasteners which have a torque value be tightened to the torque specifications as outlined by the procedure, or as listed in appendix 1. If in doubt as to what the proper torque setting is, contact your local authorized repair facility or DSI. 6.2 ONE WAY VALVE 6.2.1 Disassembly Of The One Way Valve Tools Required: Soft Jaw Vice 1 inch Open End Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench (If no vise is available use a backup 1 inch open end wrench) CAUTION: Do not use pliers on the main body of the one way valve. You may damage the valve if pliers are used. To disassemble and inspect the one way valve assembly (38): 1) The one way valve assembly must be removed from the side block (12). Use the open end wrench to remove it. 2) After the one way valve has been removed, use two wrenches or hold the hex part of the body (29) in a soft jaw vise while removing the seat (35) with a wrench. As the seat is removed, the wiper (34) and the Oring (33) slide out in place in a groove on the seat. The poppet (31) and the poppet O-ring (32) usually come out in the seat being followed by the spring (30). The only functional part remaining in the valve body is a non-moving, pressed-in cage. The function of the cage is to prevent the poppet O-ring from blowing out of place during high flows. 3) Inspect the body interior for foreign matter of any type and clean, if necessary. 4) Inspect the seat, wiper, O-ring, poppet O-ring and poppet for wear, replace if necessary. Be sure each part is clean. A repair kit is available for replacement parts. (DSI Part #525-330) 5) Place silicone lubricant on the components, then wipe clean with a non-lint producing cloth. Be careful to wipe the poppet and poppet O-ring thoroughly, removing nearly all silicone to prevent foreign materials from sticking to these components. 6) Inspect the spring and clean or replace if necessary. 6.2.2 Reassembly of the One Way Valve 1) Slide the new O-ring (32) over the poppet (31).
Fig 6.1

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SL-27 MANUAL 6.3 SIDE BLOCK ASSEMBLY 6.3.1 General
Fig 6.2 - Correct assembly order of the one way valve.

2) Insert the new spring (30) into the valve body (29), followed by the poppet (31). 3) Next, install the new O-ring (33) and new wiper (34) on the seat (35). Thread the seat (35) into the valve body (29) . 4) Tighten the seat to 240 inch lbs. (270 kg. cm). with a torque wrench while holding the body in a soft jaw vice or wrench. CAUTION: Use two wrenches or hold the hex part of the body in a vise while removing or turning the seat with a wrench. Do not use pliers on the main body of the one-way valve. You may damage the valve if pliers are used. 5) If the adapter (36) has been removed, it must be cleaned and wrapped with Teflon tape. DANGER: Do not allow any Teflon tape to cover the end of the adapter, or to enter the one-way valve. Loose pieces of Teflon tape can interfere with the performance of the one-way valve or the regulator and may block the diver’s air supply. This could lead to death through suffocation. 6) Test the operation of the valve. 7) Place the new O-ring (28) on the end of the one way valve assembly and reinstall the valve assembly in the side block (12). Tighten to 240 inch lbs. (270 kg.cm.) with a torque wrench.

The side block assembly is held in place on the helmet shell by a stud, flat washer, lock washer, nut, and a machine screw. The screw does some securing but its main function is to prevent rotation of the side block. The stud also extends into the interior of the helmet shell far enough to secure the air train by means of the washer and nut. The air train cup that fits over the stud is made of soft brass and cannot be used for a bearing surface to mount the side block. RTV silicone rubber compound is used to form a gas tight seal between the side block and the exterior of the helmet shell. 6.3.2 Side Block Assembly Removal Tools Required: 7/16,11/16, and 7/8 inch Open End Wrenches 11/16 and 7/8 inch Open End Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Stubby Screwdriver The bent tube assembly must be entirely removed before removal of the side block assembly is started. 1) Completely unscrew the bent tube assembly nut (14) from the side block. (Fig. 6.4)

Fig. 6.4 - Loosening the Bent Tube from the Side Block.

Fig. 6.3 - Tighten to 240 inch lbs. (270kg.cm) with a torque wrench.

2) Using two wrenches, hold the nut at the regulator end of the bent tube assembly with the first wrench. With the other wrench, loosen the jam nut (108) by turning the wrench DOWN.

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SL-27 MANUAL 3) Unscrew the nut until it comes free, then pull the bent tube assembly straight out of the regulator inlet nipple (109). 4) The side block assembly (39) is ready to start removal. 6.3.3 Separating the Side Block Assembly from the Helmet Shell Tools Required: Putty Knife 7/16 inch Open End Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Stubby Screwdriver 1) Removal of the side block assembly requires removing the air train (67). 2) Remove the nut (69) and washer (68), then the air train.
Fig. 6.6 - A thin putty knife can be pushed between the side block and the helmet shell

faces before reassembling. Acetone helps remove this, but must be used sparingly since it will also remove the flat black finish inside the helmet. 6) If you plan to rebuild the side block assembly, it should be done at this time, while the side block is off the helmet. 6.3.4 Side Block Assembly Replacement If a new side block is being installed, make sure it aligns correctly in the holes of the helmet shell before applying RTV silicone sealant.
Fig. 6.5 - Loosening the Air Train.

3) The stud nut (66) is removed next, with the lock washer (65) and flat washer (64). 4) Next, the screw (70) is removed. 5) The side block assembly is now unfastened, but held in place by the rubber sealing compound (silicone sealant) that acts as a glue. It may be necessary to rock just slightly, or pry the side block from the helmet shell. A thin putty knife can be pushed between the side block and the helmet shell to help free it. Do not use a screwdriver or chisel as damage to the shell could result. Be sure to peel or scrape the old silicone sealant away from both sealing sur-

1) A generous application of silicone sealant must be applied to the side block (12) prior to installation on the helmet shell. Use only Dow Corning™ RTV 732 Multi Purpose sealant. Care must be taken to avoid sealant entering the air opening in the side block. Be sure to remove all excess silicone sealant before it sets up. Lacquer thinner can be used to dissolve unset sealant. WARNING: Do not dive the helmet until the sealant has had time to cure. Check the directions on the tube of sealant for curing time. If the helmet goes into the water before the sealant has cured it could leak through the side block mounting stud hole, screw hole, or air flow hole.
39

SL-27 MANUAL 2) Thread the screw (70) through the helmet shell (58) and lightly tighten into the side block body. 3) Slide the flat washer (64) and the lock washer (65) onto the stud (11). Run the stud nut (66) down the stud and tighten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. See Appendix 1 for torque specs. 4) Tighten the screw (70) to the correct torque. See Appendix 1 for torque specs. 5) Slip the air train (67) over the stud. Align the air train with the upper edge of the view port opening in the helmet shell. 6) Place the washer (68) on the stud and tighten the nut (69) until the washer lays flush on the air train. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. 7) Test the side block prior to diving to ensure that no silicone sealant is blocking the air flow to the helmet. If it is, it must be cleaned out prior to diving.
Fig. 6.7 - A generous application of silicone sealant must be applied to the side block prior to installation on the helmet shell. Use only Dow Corning™ RTV 732 Multi Purpose sealant.

DANGER: If silicone sealant is blocking the air flow into the helmet it must be cleaned out. If it is not, the diver may not be able to properly defog the helmet or clear a flooded helmet quickly. In addition, if the demand regulator is not delivering air properly, the diver cannot use the free flow system as a source of breathing air.

6.4.2 Cleaning and Lubricating 1) Clean all the metal parts in a 50/50 dilute solution of white vinegar/water. Rinse in fresh water.

Fig. 6.9 - Remove the defogger control knob.

2) Next, unscrew the bonnet (5). Its O-ring (6) will come off with it. The valve stem (9), O-ring (8), and washer (7) usually come out with the bonnet and can be pushed out of the bonnet once removed from the side block body.

Fig. 6.11 - The seat should be removed for inspection.

2) Check the Teflon™ seat (10) for wear, and replace if necessary. 3) The Teflon™ washer and O-ring (8) must be replaced if worn. 4) Be sure to place a light coating of silicone grease on all internal moving parts, O-rings, and washers. 6.4.3 Reassembly of the Defogger Valve

Fig. 6.10 - The valve stem usually comes out with the bonnet.

Tools Required: 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver 13/16" Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 1) Screw in the new seat assembly (10) until it is even with the front of the side block body (12). 2) Next, install the new Teflon washer (7) and new O-ring (8) onto the stem (9).
41

3) If the stem remains in the side block body it can be lifted out after the bonnet is removed. 4) The seat assembly (10) can be unscrewed from the side block body with the stem or a screwdriver.

SL-27 MANUAL 3) Insert the proper end of the stem (9) into the seat assembly (10) and turn clockwise until the seat (10) lightly bottoms out. Leave the stem in place. 4) Lubricate the new O-ring (6) and install on the bonnet (5). 5) Slide the bonnet (5) over the stem (9) and thread the bonnet (5) into the side block (12). 6) Tighten the bonnet (5) with a torque wrench to 100 inch lbs. 7) Place the new Teflon™ washer (4) and the control knob (3) on the stem (9) and rotate the stem counterclockwise until the seat assembly (10) tops out fully open. The control knob (3) must turn smoothly without any binding. Binding (or “hard spots”) in the rotation could be an indication of a bent stem (9) that must be replaced. 8) Install the new Teflon™ washer (4), new knob (3), and the spring (2), and locknut (1). Screw on the locknut (1) until it is flush with the knob (3). 6.5 EMERGENCY VALVE ASSEMBLY The emergency valve assembly is not built into the side block. It is a separate component that can be removed and replaced, or disassembled in place on the side block assembly. The Emergency valve control knob is not interchangeable with the defogger valve control knob. 6.5.1 Disassembly of the Emergency Valve Assembly Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 1 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver 8 inch Adjustable Wrench 1) Remove the lock nut (26), spring (25), and knob (24). 2) Undo the packing nut (23). When the packing nut is free of the threads of the emergency valve body (19), back out the stem (20) until it is free of the emergency valve body.
Fig. 6.15 - Remove the valve stem. Fig. 6.13 - Remove the lock nut, spring and knob.

Fig. 6.14 - Undo the packing nut.

3) Remove the packing nut, packing (22), and washer (21) from the stem (20). 6.5.2 Cleaning and Lubricating 1) Clean all the metal parts in a 50/50 dilute solution of white vinegar/water. Rinse with fresh water. Clean all parts. See the cleaning instructions in 5.2.1 2) Inspect the packing (22) and washer (21) for wear and replace if necessary. 3) Inspect the stem seat (20) for unevenness or wear and replace if necessary. It must also be replaced if the stem is bent.

4) Check the seat in the emergency valve body (19) for wear or unevenness. Replace the body if necessary. 5) To remove the emergency valve body from the side block (12) the one way valve assembly (38) must first be removed. 6.5.3 Reassembly of Emergency Valve Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open End &1 inch Open End Attachments on Torque Wrench 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver Soft jaw vice NOTE: The emergency valve does not have to be removed from the side block to be rebuilt. If the valve is to be removed, the one way valve must be removed first, allowing the emergency valve to be rotated. 1) With the exception of the tapered pipe thread end of the emergency valve body (19), lubricate all components with a light coating of silicone grease. 2) Place the new Teflon washer (21) and new packing (22) on the stem (20). NOTE: There are two different packings and washers supplied in the kit, for rebuilding both the older style and the newer high flow emergency valve. Match the removed packing and washer to the new ones supplied and discard the others. 3) Holding these components in place on the stem, screw the stem into the emergency valve body. 4) Rotate the stem until it is seated all the way in.

5) Thread the packing nut (23) onto the body (19). Run the nut in and tighten slightly with a wrench. 6) Place the knob (24) onto the stem and rotate the stem all the way out, then back again. The rotation must be smooth. If “hard spots” or unevenness are felt during the rotation, the stem may be bent and could need replacement. 7) Tighten the packing nut (23) with a wrench until moderate resistance is felt when turning the knob. 8) Place the spring (25), and locknut (26) onto the stem (20) securing the knob (24). 9) Tighten the locknut until it is flush with the knob. The assembly is now complete and ready for testing. 10) Test the valve by attaching it to an emergency air supply source. There must be no leakage of gas past the stem or through the packing nut. Turn on the bailout bottle and leave the supply on for several hours. There must be no drop in pressure in the system if the valve is operating properly. 11) If the emergency valve had been removed from the side block, ensure the pipe threads are clean and retape with teflon tape. Wrap the pipe threads starting two threads back, under tension, clockwise with 11/2 wraps. Reinstall the emergency valve in the side block then reinstall the one way valve and torque to 240 inch lbs.

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SL-27 MANUAL WARNING: A leaking emergency valve assembly can cause the diver to exhaust his entire emergency air supply (bailout) without his knowledge. This may lead the diver to mistakenly assume his bailout supply is available when it is not. This could lead to panic or drowning in an emergency. Any worn component that causes an emergency valve to leak must be replaced. 6.6 BENT TUBE ASSEMBLY 6.6.1 General The bent tube assembly (16) provides for breathing gas flow to the side block assembly. Breathing gas flows through the inlet nipple of the demand regulator assembly. Both ends of the bent tube assembly disconnect for complete removal.
Fig. 6.19 - Loosening the jam nut.

2) The regulator end has a jam nut (108) that locks the mount nut in place. With one wrench, hold the bent tube mount nut. With another wrench, turn DOWN the jam nut, backing it away from the mount nut. The mount nut can then be rotated until free of the regulator inlet nipple (109) threads. It can be pushed up the bent tube. 3) With the two mount nuts free, the bent tube assembly can be pulled straight out of the regulator inlet nipple. The bent tube assembly can be rotated back and forth to aid removal. Be careful to only rotate and pull straight out on the inlet nipple. DO NOT BEND THE TUBE. 6.6.3 Inspection of Bent Tube Assembly The O-ring at the regulator end (15) is inspected and replaced if necessary. The Teflon™ O-ring (13) at the side block end is inspected and replaced if necessary.

Fig. 6.18 - Always start removal at the side block end.

6.6.2 Removal of the Bent Tube Assembly Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open End Wrench 1) Always start removal at the side block end. The free swiveling mount nut on this end of the bent tube can be unthreaded completely and can slide down the tube.
Fig. 6.20 - Replace the O-ring on the bent tube if it is worn or damaged.

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6.6.4 Replacement of Bent Tube Assembly The bent tube must be free of dents. If the helmet has been used for burning (underwater cutting) jobs, carefully check for erosion of the metal. Replace if necessary. If a new bent tube is being installed of the side block has been removed, refer to the manual for installation. Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open End Wrench 1) Replace the O-ring (15) at the regulator end and the Teflon washer (13) at the side block end with the new ones supplied. 2) Push the O-ring end of the bent tube assembly into the regulator inlet nipple (109). Slide it in until the side block end is aligned with the threads for the mount nut. 3) Be sure the Teflon O-ring is in place. 4) Tighten the bent tube assembly onto the side block (12). See Appendix I for torque specifications. 5) Start the regulator to bent tube mount nut onto the inlet nipple. Run it in HAND TIGHT ONLY. 6) Hold the nut on the end of the bent tube with a wrench and tighten the jam nut (108) against it with another wrench. The bent tube nut must not be bottomed out against the nipple.

SL-27 MANUAL If the regulator does not breathe easily, the diver cannot work hard and will tire rapidly. Simply put: If the demand regulator does not work properly the diver cannot work properly. This makes the maintenance of the demand regulator assembly essential. For the gas inlet valve and adjustment system to operate properly, the components in the demand regulator MUST be in good condition and MUST be periodically adjusted internally. Four special tools, the inlet valve holder (DSI Part #525-616), the regulator adjustment wrench (DSI Part #525-611), the socket wrench (DSI Part #525-612), and the castle wrench (DSI Part #525-618) should be used to work on the regulator.

Fig. 6.21 - Tool Kit with pouch - DSI Part #525-620.

6.7 DEMAND REGULATOR The regulator system on all Kirby Morgan helmets is simple and highly reliable. Even if the components are not in good condition, the regulator will probably continue to function. However, inhalation resistance could be extremely high if the demand regulator is not maintained properly. There is always the backup supply of steady flow gas from the defogger valve in the event the demand regulator functions too badly. The point here is that the demand regulator must receive regular maintenance to assure the best possible performance.

Disassembly, assembly, and adjustment can be done without these tools, but the work is much easier and the adjustment is better if these tools are used. The above 4 tools are available together along with a tool pouch. The “Tool Kit with pouch” is DSI Part #525620. 6.7.1 Demand Regulator Test for Correct Adjustment, Fully Assembled Check the regulator for adjustment and proper function with the assembly complete and the breathing gas supply on.

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SL-27 MANUAL 1) Press the purge button in the cover (101) to check flow. There should be between 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) and 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) free travel in the button, then the gas must start flowing. When the button is fully depressed, a strong surge of gas must result. 2) Run the adjustment knob (98) out until a steady flow of gas is present. 3) Run the adjustment knob (98) in until the free flow just stops. Depress the purge button several times to ensure that the regulator has stabilized. If the flow does not stop, check the supply pressure. If it is correct, the regulator will require internal adjustment. See sec. 6.7.10 or 6.7.11. 4) With an assistant ready to assist, and both persons stationed adjacent to the air manifold, don the mask and test breathe the mask to check for resistance. If the adjustment knob (98) has been set in accordance with Step #2 above and the regulator breathes hard, internal adjustment is necessary. 5) Check the exhaust valves by turning the defogger control knob (3) and the emergency control knob (24) off. Stand next to the manifold and turn the air supply off to the helmet. Drain the supply hose but be sure the air is on to the manifold. Don the neck dam ring and helmet, close the locking collar assembly, and try to inhale. If any leakage is present it could be from the regulator exhaust, neck dam, or other component leakage.
Fig. 6.22 - Remove the demand regulator clamp.

for leaks. A finger must be held over the inlet nipple (109) during this check. 7) When no supply pressure is going to be on the helmet for several hours or more, the regulator control knob (98) must be backed all the way out. This will prolong the life of the inlet valve. 6.7.2 Inspection of Regulator Body Interior Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver 1) Remove the demand regulator clamp (103) by removing the clamp screw (102).

DANGER: Do not perform this test unless the diver is stationed immediately adjacent to the diver’s air manifold and you are certain the air is on to the manifold. If the diver is unable to flow air to the helmet, either through the umbilical or the bailout, he may not be able to remove it easily. To break the seal, the diver must reach up and pull the neck dam away from his neck. This will allow air to enter the helmet. A tender must be standing by during this test to assist the diver if required. 6) Start by visually checking the regulator exhaust valve (112) and the main exhaust (water dump) valve (73) for correct seating. If the leak cannot be located in the other components, and the regulator is still suspect, it can be removed, (see Section 6.7). With no gas supply connected, attempt to inhale directly from the mount tube to check the regulator
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2) Lift off the demand regulator cover (101) and diaphragm (100). 3) Clean the diaphragm and check it for holes. 4) Inspect the interior of the demand regulator body (90) for foreign objects and cleanliness. 5) Clean the interior of the regulator body if necessary. Make sure the diaphragm has no signs of wear or aging. Do not reassemble yet. Use only replacement diaphragms supplied from Diving Systems International, Inc. as others may not stay securely in place. 6) Reinstall the diaphragm, cover, and clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to the recommended torque. See Appendix I for the proper torque value.

SL-27 MANUAL 6.7.3 Adjustment System Lubrication Tools Required: 3/4 inch Open End Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench 3/32 inch Punch Small Block of Wood Ball Peen Hammer Go to the adjustment knob end of the regulator: 1 ) Unscrew the knob (98) until it stops and a wrench can be placed on the nut (97). 2) Remove the nut. The adjustment shaft (94) and the knob are unscrewed along with the nut. 4) Remove the washer (95) and O-ring (96). 5) Inspect the O-ring (96) for cuts. Replace if necessary. 6) Inspect the washer (95) for wear. Replace if necessary. 7) Turn the helmet on its side, side block at the top, and shake out the spacer (93), spring set (92), and piston (91).

Fig. 6.23 - Screw the regulator adjustment knob out for removal.

3) Punch out the retaining pin (99) with a 3/32" punch. While driving the pin through, support the adjustment end with a block of wood to avoid bending the shaft. Be careful or damage may result to the adjustment shaft.

Fig. 6.24 - Shake out the spacer, spring set, and piston.

8) Clean and lubricate generously with silicone grease. 9) Inspect the inside of the adjustment tube to be sure there is no corrosion and the adjustment assembly can travel freely. 6.7.4 Reassembly of Adjustment System 1) Place the piston (91) back in the regulator adjustment tube, followed by the spring set (92), and spacer (93). 2) Place the washer (95) and O-ring (96) on the shaft (94).
47

Fig. 6.25 - Inspect the O-ring & washer.

SL-27 MANUAL 3) Slip the packing nut (97) over the shaft followed by the adjustment knob (98). 4) Drive the pin (99) back into place until it is flush with the surface of the adjustment knob. 5) Screw the shaft back into the regulator body (90). 6) Thread the packing nut onto the regulator body. Rotate the adjustment knob all the way in using the torque wrench and a 3/4 inch open end attachment torqued to 40 inch lbs after it is seated (46 kg.cm). 6.7.5 Demand Regulator Assembly Removal Tools Required: 1 3/8 inch Socket on Torque Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver 11/16 Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 13/16 Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 2 ea. 7/8 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 1) To remove the regulator (113) from the helmet, the bent tube (16) must be removed first. The bent tube assembly must be removed entirely before regulator removal. 2) Remove the whisker (86) from the port retainer (78) by removing the screws (89). 3) The regulator mount nut (49) is removed with the sealing O-ring (48). 4) Now the regulator assembly can be pulled out of the helmet. 5) The whisker (86) is held in place at the regulator body (90) by being stretched over the regulator exhaust flange. To remove the whisker from the regulator body stretch it off. 6.7.6 Disassembly of the Demand Regulator Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Screwdriver Attachment on Torque Wrench DSI Regulator Tool Kit, DSI Part #525-620 7/8 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench
48
Fig. 6.26 - The regulator mount nut is removed with the proper wrench.

3/4 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 3/32 inch Punch 7/8 inch Open End Wrench Small Ball Peen Hammer 1) Remove the cover clamp screw (102) and cover clamp (103). 2) Lift the cover (101) off and take out the diaphragm (100). 3) Adjustment knob (98) removal is started by unscrewing the adjustment knob until it stops. 4) The packing nut (97) is now exposed enough to use a wrench on it for removal. As the nut is backed off, unscrew the knob, also. 5) The O-ring (96) and washer (95) remain on the shaft. 6) Tilt the helmet so that the spacer (93), spring set (92), and piston (91) fall out of the adjustment shaft tube.

SL-27 MANUAL 7) Place the adjustment knob (98) on a block of wood and drive the retaining pin (99) out with the punch. 8) If not already done, remove the bent tube assembly (16). 9) Remove the inlet nipple (109) from the regulator body. 10) Inside the regulator body, remove the nut (104) from the inlet valve (111). The castle wrench may be used to hold the inlet valve while the nut is being unscrewed. Insert the castle wrench into the inlet nipple tube of the regulator and press it onto the inlet valve. Also, the inlet valve holding tool may be used to hold the inlet valve by inserting it into the hole in the balance tube until it wedges the inlet valve, preventing rotation. These tools are included in the DSI Tool Kit, DSI Part #525-620. 11) Remove the nut completely. The DSI socket wrench can be inserted into the adjustment tube for removal of the nut. 12) Tilt the regulator and drop out the inlet valve (111). 13) The spacer (105), lever (106), and washer (107) will now fall out of the regulator body. 6.7.7 Inspection of Demand Regulator Parts After the regulator has been disassembled, inspect the parts. If the parts show signs of wear or deterioration they must be replaced, even if it is prior to the recommended replacement interval. 1) Inlet valve: Check condition of rubber for wear and/or deep grooves. 2) Diaphragm: Check to determine if rubber has separated from the metal part. Inspect for cracks, pin holes, and pinching of outer edges. 3) O-rings: Check for irregularities in the rubber. 4) Exhaust valve: Be sure there is no curling or deformation and that the rubber is in good shape. 5) Whisker: Inspect the whisker. Replace the whisker if it shows wear or aging. Replace the whisker if it allows bubbles to interfere with visibility. 6.7.8 Cleaning and Inspection of Demand Regulator Parts Clean all metal parts in a sonic cleaner or in white vinegar and blow off with air. Inspect all parts carefully. Replace any that are worn or damaged as well as all that are supplied in the repair kit.

113a

98 97

95 94 93 92 91

96

99

90
Fig. 6.27 - The complete regulator assembly.

100 112 101 102 111
350 R
D

103

-N SI A

VY

110 109 108 107 106

104 105

e g ula

to

r

49

SL-27 MANUAL All regulator parts must be free of damage, dirt, and corrosion. All rubber components must be in excellent condition. 6.7.9 Reassembly of the Demand Regulator 1) Install the new exhaust valve (112) into the regulator and trim off any excess stem that may interfere with the movement of the lever or inlet valve. 6) Holding the inlet valve (111) with the castle wrench, tighten the nut (104) until two threads are visible past the nut and then remove the castle wrench. 7) While holding the lever down, install the inlet nipple (109) with it’s O-ring (110) into the regulator body (90). Tighten inlet nipple to 40 inch lbs. (46 kg. cm.) 8) Lightly lubricate the piston (91) and spacer (93). Install the piston, spring set (92) and spacer into the adjustment tube of the regulator body in the order shown in Fig 6.27. 9) If you have disassembled the adjustment knob assembly (113a), next slide the washer (95) and Oring (95) onto the adjustment shaft (94). 10) Slide the packing nut (97) onto the adjustment shaft, then slip the knob (98) onto the end of the shaft. Hold the shaft and rotate the knob until the pin holes line up. Use the inlet valve holder from the regulator tool kit to accurately align these holes. 11) Install the retaining pin (99) by tapping it in with a light hammer until it is flush. 12) Lubricate the threads lightly, then thread the adjustment shaft (94) into the tube until the packing nut (97) can be started. Tighten the packing nut to 40 inch pounds. Make sure that the adjustment knob (98) is run in simultaneously. 13) Check the adjustment knob for free rotation. 14) Stretch the exhaust whisker (86) onto the exhaust flange of the regulator. 15) Mount the regulator to the mask or helmet. Lubricate and install the sealing O-ring (48) and thread on the regulator mount nut (49). 16) Install the bent tube assembly (16) before tightening the regulator mount nut. Lubricate the O-ring (15) on the bent tube assembly. Slide the O-ring end of the bent tube assembly into the regulator inlet nipple (109) until the side block end is aligned with straight edge and align them if necessary by carefully bending them with pliers. Now, with the inlet valve depressed insert the lever legs between the washer (107) and spacer (105).

Fig. 6.28 - The Castle Wrench and Inlet Valve.

2) Press the head of the inlet valve (111) into the castle wrench (DSI Part #525-618). With the inlet valve securely held insert it into the inlet tube in the regulator body (90). 3) Reach a finger into the inlet mount tube and depress the inlet valve so the stem extends into the interior of the regulator body. Place the washer (107) and the spacer (105) over the end of the inlet valve stem. The washer and spacer may be placed in the recess in the regulator body before inserting the inlet valve. 4) Place a new nut (104) into the socket wrench from the DSI tool kit and insert it through the adjustment shaft tube. NOTE: A new nut (104) must be used. Once this locking nut has been used, it cannot be reused. The nylon friction that keeps the adjustment will lose its holding capability and the regulator might not stay in proper adjustment. With the inlet valve depressed, run the nut onto the inlet valve stem about 2 turns, leaving enough slack to allow installation of the lever (106). With the inlet valve depressed the washer and spacer must be loose on the inlet valve stem. 5) The lever (106) is installed next. The lever legs MUST be parallel to each other. Check them with a
50

SL-27 MANUAL the threads for the bent tube mount nut. Insure that the Teflon O-ring is in place and tighten the mount nut to 100 inch lbs. (112 kg.cm.). 17) Now tighten the regulator mount nut (49) to 100 inch pounds. Thread the large nut on the bent tube assembly onto the inlet nipple. Run this nut on until it just bottoms on the shoulder on the bent tube. Do not tighten further. Using two wrenches, hold the large nut on the regulator end of the bent tube and tighten the jam nut (108) to 100 inch lbs. (112kg.cm.), 18) Attach the whisker (86) to each side of the face port retainer (78) using the screws (89), plates (88) and spacers (87). Carefully torque these screws to 12 inch lbs (13kg.cm.). 19) Adjust the regulator following instructions in Section 6.7.10. Adjustment instructions are also included in the regulator tool kit. 20) Install the diaphragm (100), cover (101), clamp (103) and screw (102). Torque the screw to 8 inch lbs. (9 kg.cm.). 21) Check the regulator for proper operation and fine tune the adjustment if necessary. 6.7.10 Tuning the Regulator 1) Remove clamp (103), cover (101) and diaphragm (100). 2) Screw (clockwise) the adjustment knob (98) all the way in, towards the regulator body (90). 3) Pressurize the regulator to between 120 - 150 psig (8 -10 bar) of supply pressure. 4) Screw the adjustment knob out until the regulator starts to free flow. Screw the adjustment knob in until the free-flow just stops and then in one more turn. 5) Insert the inlet valve holding tool into the balance hole on the inlet tube (Fig. 6.29). Push forward and left on the tool to stop the inlet valve (111) stem from turning. Adjust the nut (104) until there is 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) to l/8 inch (3.0 mm) of free play at the end of the lever (106). 6) Remove the inlet valve holder tool.
Fig. 6.30 Fig. 6.29 - Insert the inlet valve holding tool into the balance hole on the inlet tube.

7) Place the diaphragm and cover in place, depressing the cover tightly to simulate a properly tightened clamp. 8) Depress the purge button in the center of the cover (101). 9) There must be l/8 of an inch (3.0 mm) of free travel before the button comes in contact with the diaphragm (100). The lever (106) must now be adjusted to this proper height if it is not already correct. The nut (104) can be loosened no more than l/8 of a turn to lower the lever height. The lever must be bent if more adjustment is necessary.

10) To bend the lever (106) up, grip the lever from the side with a pair of long nosed pliers and bend the roller end up with your thumb. NOTE: Be very careful to not place undo stress on the lower arms of the lever as this will disfigure the lower blades and cause spongy operation. 11) To bend the lever down, place the disk end of the DSI 1/4 inch wrench onto the flat area of the adjustment tube within the regulator. (see fig. 6.31) Next
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SL-27 MANUAL d) Normally, if the regulator leaks breathing gas, the nut (104) is too tight, and must be loosened until the lever (106) has 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch (1.5-3.0 mm) of play at the end. e) If the regulator continues to leak either the inlet valve (111) must be changed or the inlet nipple (109) must be inspected for a damaged sealing surface. If the leak continues, the regulator must be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, inspected, lubricated, and reassembled.
Fig. 6.31

6.7.11 Regulator Steady Flows When Pressured Up: Special Tools Used Tools Required: Small flat blade screw driver. Small jewelers screw driver or metal scribe. Needle nose pliers. DSI regulator tool kit if available. A few words about the demand regulator. The demand regulator is very rugged and reliable. However, to maintain optimum performance it should be checked prior to each diving day in accordance with the brief procedure 6.7.1 Demand Regulator Test for Correct Adjustment, Fully Assembled. If after completing the demand regulator test as outlined in 6.7.1 adjustment is necessary and the special DSI tool kit is not available proceed as follows. 1) Remove the regulator clamp (103), cover (101) and diaphragm (100). 2) Adjust the regulator adjustment knob (98) all the way in. Finger tight only. 3) Pressurize the regulator to between 120-150 psig (8.5-10 bar). 4) Slowly back out on the adjustment knob until a slight free flow is heard and then rotate the adjustment knob in (clockwise) 1/4 turn and depress the purge button momentarily. Repeat this procedure until the gas flow stops. Usually at this point the regulator adjustment knob will be between 5 and 7 turns out. Note: If when backing the adjustment knob out from the full “in” position, the regulator starts free flowing at less than five turns, then this usually indicates insufficient free play at the lever.

slide the disk, as far as possible, under the lever (106). With your finger, bend the lever down over the disk to the desired height. Be careful not to bend the lever too far! 12) Replace the diaphragm (100) and the cover (101). Test the purge button. Continue until proper tolerances are reached. IMPORTANT NOTES ON REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT: a) It is permissible to loosen the nut (104) no more than l/8 of a turn to adjust the lever height. If the nut is loosened beyond this amount, the regulator will not flow to its maximum rate due to insufficient leverage between the lever (106) and the inlet valve stem. If the nut is adjusted too tight, the regulator will leak. b) If a new inlet valve is installed, allow the regulator to sit for 24 hours with the adjustment knob (98) turned in all the way, before adjusting. This will allow the rubber in the inlet valve stem (111) to take a set against the inlet nipple (109). If the regulator is to be used immediately, be aware that the rubber seat will take a set, changing the adjustment and the regulators performance. This requires the readjustment of the regulator after the first day of use following the proper setting time and procedure c) The two opposing blades on the bottom of the lever (106) must be in perfect alignment with each other and be free of nicks or burrs.

52

5) Upon completion of step 4. Check the free play at the lever (55). The lever should have between 1/161/8 inch (1.5-3.0 mm) play. If adjustment is necessary, adjust using the DSI tools as explained in step 5, or the alternative method described below.

SL-27 MANUAL play and “Out” (counterclockwise) to increase lever play. Only turn the adjustment nut 1/8 turn at a time. Depress the lever momentarily after each adjustment and observe the lever play. It may be necessary to complete this procedure several times, as the procedure requires estimating the proper position of the nut. If the regulator free flow did not stop after this procedure, refer to regulator disassembly and cleaning 6.7.6, 6.7.7, and 6.7.8. 8) When adjustment is complete, place the diaphragm (100) and cover (101) in place, and press tightly down on the cover to simulate the action of the clamp.

6) DSI tools: Using the inlet valve holding rod, (L shaped rod), insert the end of the rod into the balance hole as shown in FIG. 6.29. Lightly apply force by pushing on the rod making it act as a lever to put friction against the inlet valve shaft. At this point, the DSI wrench can be used to rotate the lever nut (104). Rotate the nut “In” (clockwise) to reduce lever play or “Out” (counter clockwise) to increase lever play. Only rotate the nut 1/8 turn at a time. Remove the tools and depress the lever several times after adjusting to ensure the correct play is achieved. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times, as the method requires estimating the correct position of the nut. Note: if there is little (less than 1/16 inch /1.5 mm) or no lever play, the regulator will free flow. If there is too much free play, (more than 1/8 inch / 3.0 mm) the regulator will not be capable of full demand flow potential. 7) If the free flow did not stop after this procedure, refer to regulator disassembly and cleaning 6.7.6, 6.7.7, and 6.7.8. Alternative method: If a DSI tool kit is not available, a small jewelers screwdriver or metal scribe can be inserted in the slot on the end of the inlet valve (111) to keep it from rotating, and needle nose pliers may be used to rotate the lever nut (104). Holding the slot of the inlet valve from rotating, carefully rotate the nut (104) “In” (clockwise to remove lever

Fig. 6.33 Press the cover over the diaphragm.

9) With the cover pressed tight against the diaphragm, if the regulator starts to free flow, the lever may need to be bent down slightly. If the regulator does not free flow, slowly depress the purge button (101c) until a slight free flow develops. The purge button should depress no further than 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) before the regulator develops a flow. If the regulator does not develop a slight free flow when the purge button is depressed in 1/8 inch (3.0 mm), then the lever will require slight upward bending. Note: Before bending the lever, double check the adjustments. It is rare that the lever requires bending in a regulator that has been in service. Usually levers only require bending in new installations or because of damage during disassembly. 10) Install the clamp (103) and clamp screw (102). Tighten the screw to the correct torque (see appendix 1 for torque specifications).
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SL-27 MANUAL 6.7.12 Regulator has Low or No Flow When Pressurized Tools Required: DSI Regulator Adjustment Tools, DSI Part #525-620 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver If there is no flow when the regulator is pressurized, and the lever (106) is very loose (travels more than 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) at the roller end), the nut (104) must be tightened. 1) Turn off the breathing gas (or air) supply. 11) Again, press on the purge button in the cover. It must have 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) minimum and 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) maximum free travel before it contacts the diaphragm. If there is more than 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) travel, the lever must be bent upward (see Section 6.7.10). If the button has only slight or no free travel, the lever must be bent down. 12) If the purge button travel is correct, the adjustment is complete. CAUTION: The nut must not be loosened more than 1/8 turn to lower the height of the lever. If more adjustment is necessary the lever should be bent downward. If the nut is loosened more than 1/8 turn the lever will not have enough travel for proper flow rates. 2) Bleed the regulator so no pressure is present. If the lever is so loose that it cannot be used to bleed the system, the next step will do so. 3) Back the adjustment knob (98) all the way out. 4) Install the inlet valve holder into the lower equalizing hole of the regulator and press up or down to prevent rotation. 5) Run the adjustment knob all the way in. 6) Pressurize the system to between 120 and 150 psig (8-10 bar). There must be no steady flow. 7) Back out the adjustment knob counter clockwise until a slight free flow starts, this should be between 5 and 8 turns. Then slowly rotate the knob in clockwise, while intermittently depressing the lever until the flow just stops and the regulator is stable. 8) Tighten the nut (104) until the loose lever has about 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) of play at the roller end. The adjustment wrench is the best tool for this. 9) Replace the diaphragm (100). 10) Press the cover (101) over the diaphragm. Hold the cover tightly against the diaphragm.

Fig. 6.34

WARNING: The lock nut must always be replaced if removed from the inlet valve. The plastic material that locks the nut is not designed for multiple reuse. If the nut comes loose during a dive the regulator would free flow heavily. In the situation where the diver is using bottled breathing gas this would result in a rapid consumption of breathing gas.

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SL-27 MANUAL

11) Press the purge button in the cover. There must be 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) travel before the purge button pushes against the diaphragm against the lever. A flow of gas will start when the lever is depressed. If there is no travel, or more than 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) travel in the purge button, it may be necessary to bend the lever to its proper height by the method explained in Section 6.7.10. If the purge button travel seems to be correct, proceed with assembly. 12) Install the clamp (103) and clamp screw (102). Tighten the screw to correct torque (see appendix). 13) Again, press on the purge button in the cover. It must have 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) minimum and 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) maximum free travel before pushing the diaphragm in contact with the lever causing the start of gas flow. If there is more than 1/8 inch (3.0 mm) travel, the lever must be bent upward (see Section 6.7.10). If the button has only slight or no free travel, the lever must be bent down. 14) If the purge button travel is correct, the adjustment is complete. 6.7.13 Unexplained Demand Regulator Steady Flow When Underwater Any leak in the neck dam when the diver is face down will cause gas to vent out into the water from the inside of the helmet. This causes the demand regulator to steady flow, making up for the vented gas. Even if the adjustment knob is turned in, the leak may continue. One method to check this is for the diver to place the demand regulator above the neck dam by looking up. The steady flow will stop and water may leak in through the neck dam leak. (see Sections 6.7.10 for detailed instructions on demand regulator adjustment.)

51 52

53

50
Fig. 6.35

6.8 ORAL NASAL 6.8.1 Oral Nasal Removal Tools Required: 7/16 inch Open End Wrench The oral nasal mask is easily replaced. 1) The nose block device (51) MUST be removed first. See Section 7.3.2. 2) Remove the microphone (131). 3) The oral nasal mask can then be pulled off the regulator mount nut (49). It is held on by a snap fit. 6.8.2 Inspection of Oral Nasal 1) Inspect the oral nasal mask. If it is torn or aged badly it must be replaced. CAUTION: The nose block device MUST be removed and replaced when installing a new oral nasal. Simply stretching the oral nasal over the nose block device can cause the oral nasal to tear. 2) Inspect the oral nasal valve (52). If it is torn or damaged it must be replaced.

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SL-27 MANUAL 6.8.3 Oral Nasal Replacement 1) Snap the oral nasal over the regulator mount nut (49). 2) Reinstall the microphone (131). 3) Reinstall the nose block device (51). 6.8.4 Oral Nasal Valve Replacement 1) Remove the valve body (53) by pushing it out of the oral nasal. 2) Remove the old valve (52) by pulling it out. 3) Install the new valve body by feeding the thin tail through the valve body and pulling on it until the valve is seated. 4) Install the valve body in the Oral Nasal. The valve MUST be on the inside of the Oral Nasal. (see fig. 6.31) 6.9 WHISKER EXHAUST 6.9.1 Whisker Removal Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver NOTE: It is necessary to remove the regulator from the helmet to replace the whisker and exhaust valve. See Section 6.7.5. 1) The rubber whisker (86) is removed by stretching and pulling the rubber away from the back of the regulator (90). A metal cup called the exhaust flange surrounds the regulator rubber exhaust valve. The whisker is held in place at the regulator body by being stretched over the exhaust flange. 2) The whisker is also held on each side of the helmet at the port retainer (78). Two screws (89), stand off spacers (87) and one plate (88) hold each side. Complete removal of the whisker is done by removing these screws, spacers and plate. Take care not to lose the four spacers. (Fig 6.36)

Fig. 6.36 3) Before removing the regulator exhaust valve, carefully inspect the area around the edges to assure the rubber exhaust valve is in contact with the regulator body. The metal cross area of the body under the valve could be slightly bent out resulting in the rubber valve (112) not sealing. If the exhaust valve is high and not sealing, lightly press in on the metal cross. The exhaust valve can remain in place during this. Bend the metal in slightly until the rubber valve seats. 4) The rubber exhaust valve (112) is removed by pulling it out. 6.9.2 Whisker Replacement 1) Replace the regulator exhaust valve. 2) Stretch the whisker onto the exhaust flange of the regulator (90). 3) Replace the regulator onto the helmet. (See Section 6.7.5). 4) Attach the screws (89), spacers (87) and plate (88), on each side of the port retainer and torque (see Appendix). DANGER: Always be sure to use a torque screwdriver to check the tension of the port retainer screws. Overtightening can cause damage to the threaded inserts in the fiberglass shell and cause them to loosen. Without the correct tension the port retainer may come loose and the helmet could flood. This could lead to drowning.

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SL-27 MANUAL 6.10 WATER DUMP ASSEMBLY The main exhaust assembly (71-75) is held in place by the three screws (71) that are installed from the inside the helmet shell. RTV silicone sealant is used to seal the main exhaust body (72) to the helmet shell. 6.10.1 Water Dump Valve Removal Tools Required: Diagonal Cutting Pliers Slip Joint Pliers Tie Wraps 1) The main exhaust shroud (74) can be removed by cutting off the tie wrap (75). 2) The main exhaust valve (73) must be replaced at the slightest sign of deterioration or aging of the rubber. Simply grasp the valve and pull to remove. 3) The main exhaust body (72) must be clean with no sand or other debris. 6.10.2 Water Dump Valve Replacement 1) The rubber main exhaust valve (73) installs by inserting the center stem through the main exhaust body (72), and then pulling from inside the helmet shell (58) until it snaps into place. 2) Replace the main exhaust shroud (74) and secure it with a new tie wrap (75). Remove the excess tail from the tie wrap. 6.10.3 Water Dump Body Removal Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver Diagonal Cutters Slip Joint Pliers Tie Wraps 1) Unscrew the 3 screws (71) inside the helmet shell (58).
Fig. 6.37 Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the base of the exhaust body

2) Carefully pry the water dump body (72) away from the helmet shell (58). A thin putty knife can be used to slide between the body and the helmet to ease seperation.DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR CHISEL TO REMOVE THE BODY! DAMAGE TO THE HELMET SHELL COULD RESULT. 3) Clean off any silicone sealant on the main exhaust body or helmet shell. 4) Remove the shroud and valve if they need replacement as per Section 5.5.6. 6.10.4 Main Exhaust Body Replacement 1) Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the base of the exhaust body (72). Take care not to block the opening for the main exhaust valve (73).

2) Position the water dump body (72) on the helmet shell (58) and install the screws (71). Tighten the screws to 18 inch pounds of torque. Wipe off any excess sealant taking care not to block the opening for the water dump valve. 3) When the RTV has cured for 24 hours, install the new valve (73) and shroud (74).

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SL-27 MANUAL

NOTES

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SL-27 MANUAL

CHAPTER 7.0 CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE

7.1 GENERAL This section covers the maintenance and repair of all non-breathing system components of the SuperLite-27 Diver’s Helmet. Correct repairs will result in better communications and improved overall diver comfort and performance in getting the job done. Numbers appearing in parentheses below are “location” numbers that are used in the blowapart drawing at the rear of this manual. WARNING: Use only Diving Systems International original replacement spares when repairing your helmet. The use of other manufacturer’s parts will interfere with the performance characteristics of your life support equipment and may jeopardize your safety. Additionally, any substitutions will void all warranties offered by DSI. All the spare parts in our catalog were specifically manufactured for Kirby Morgan designed helmets and masks. When ordering spares, insist on DSI original parts. DANGER: All parts on the SuperLite27 must be adjusted to their proper torque specifications. See Appendix 1 for a complete listing of torque specifications for each part. Failure to adjust parts to the recommended specifications could lead to helmet failure and accidents. This could be fatal.

7.3 FACE PORT 7.3.1 General The face port (77), or viewing lens, is made of polycarbonate. Small scratches on the exterior are not important as they tend to disappear underwater. However, the faceport is easily replaced by removing the port retainer (78) and dropping in a new faceport. 7.3.2 Face Port and Nose Block Device Removal Tools Required: 7/16 inch Open End Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver Slip Joint Pliers 1) First remove the nose block device knob (85) then the packing nut (84). 2) Slip the O-rings (82) off the nose block shaft (51) and pull the nose block device out through the interior of the oral nasal mask (50).

7.2 PORT RETAINER The port retainer (78) is made of chrome plated brass. The nose block guide (83) is threaded into the port retainer, and is easily replaced if damaged. Under normal use, the port retainer should never need replacement.

5) Be sure not to lose the O-ring (81) that is located on the back side of the port retainer at the nose block device packing. 6) The four whisker spacers (87) must not be misplaced. They will usually be found lodged in the whisker (86).

whisker spacer

Fig. 7.2 - Removing the port retainer screws.

Fig. 7.5 - Don't misplace the whisker spacers.

7) Remove the old port (77) and sealing O-ring (76). 7.3.3 Face Port and Nose Block Replacement 1) Clean the O-ring groove that is in the helmet shell (58). 2) Coat the O-ring (76) with DC111 lubricant and replace in the helmet shell (58).

Fig. 7.3 - Removing the port retainer.

Fig. 7.4 - Be sure to install the O-ring on the back of the port retainer.

Fig. 7.6- Clean the O-ring groove

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SL-27 MANUAL Place the entire port retainer onto the helmet shell (58), holding it in place against the port (77) and face port O-ring (76) while the twelve screws ( 80, 89) are all run in loose. Replace the handle (59) as per Section 7.13.2. 6) Slightly tighten each screw, one after another, until they are all snug (12 inch pounds of torque) and the O-ring (76) has completely sealed the face port (77). DANGER: Always be sure to use a torque screwdriver to check the tension of the port retainer screws. Overtightening can cause damage to the threaded inserts in the fiberglass shell and cause them to loosen. Without the correct tension the port retainer may come loose and the helmet could flood. This could lead to drowning.

Fig. 7.7 - Lubricate the port O-ring and install in the O-ring groove.

WARNING: The O-ring on the face port of the SuperLite-27 is made from a special compound and has unique dimensions. It is a softer durometer O-ring than is commonly available. There are no equivalent O-rings manufactured by other vendors. This O-ring must be replaced with a D.S.I. O-ring. Failure to do so could lead to seal failure. 3) Place the new face port (77) into the helmet shell (58) making sure the O-ring (76) is in its proper groove. 4) Clean and lubricate the small O-ring (81). 5) Slip the O-ring (81) on the small tube that protrudes from the rear of the port retainer (78).

Fig. 7.9 - Always use a torque screwdriver to check the tension of the port retainer screws.

7) Install the nose block device (51) from the interior of the oral nasal mask (50) and out through the lower packing fitting on the port retainer (78). 8) Slide the two lubricated O-rings (82) onto the shaft of the nose block device (51). 9) The packing nut (84) is threaded into place followed by the nose block device knob (85). 10) Tighten the packing nut (84) until some resistance is felt when the nose block device knob is pushed in and out. Tighten the nut until
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Fig. 7.8 - Place the new face port into the helmet shell

SL-27 MANUAL 7.4 NECK DAM There are two neck dams that may be used with the SuperLite-27; a neoprene neck dam, which is standard, and an optional latex neck dam. Instructions for both types will be found here. 7.4.1 Removal of the Neck Dam Tools required: 7/64 inch Allen wrench attachment on torque screwdriver #2 Phillips head attachment on torque screwdriver X-acto® knife or razor blade Needle nose pliers Small punch 1) Remove the O-ring (138) from the groove on the outside of the neck ring assembly (148). 2) Use the hex key and unscrew all the screws (145) from the stepped neck dam ring (141), along with the 2 flat head (Phillips) screws (144) that secure the strap plate (143) and the 4 flat head screws (147) that secure the chin strap. 3) Separate the split neck dam rings (139) and neck dam (140) from the stepped neck dam ring (141). 4) Discard the old neck dam. 5) Clean all parts as needed. 11) The nose block device knob (85) should be tightened with a padded pair of pliers, while holding the nose block pad on the inside of the helmet. WARNING: The polycarbonate material used In the face port (113) Is very strong. However, certain chemicals will attack the port and weaken It. Some solvents used for grease removal will attack the polycarbonate . Use only mild detergents or organic soaps to clean the face port. Never allow overspray of silicone lubricant to get on the face port. Although the silicone's lubricant is non-injurious, the propellent is usually Freon (chlorinated hydrocarbon) that will damage the port.. This could cause the face port to fail after a minor impact.
62

Fig. 7.10 - Install the nose block device through the interior of the oral nasal mask.

the shaft (51) will no longer slide, then back the nut off until the shaft begins to slide again. If this nut is too tight the nose block device cannot slide in and out.

7.4.2 Neoprene Neck Dam Replacement Tools Required: 7/64 inch Allen wrench attachment on torque screwdriver #2 Phillips attachment on torque screwdriver Small, sharp punch CAUTION: DSI neoprene neck dams come in a variety of sizes. Be sure to obtain the right size neck dam for your neck. A neck dam that is too tight will be very uncomfortable and can cause you to pass out. New neck dams (140) are supplied with no holes punched in them for the mounting screws. As the screws are inserted and tightened they cut their own holes in the neck dam.

SL-27 MANUAL Before starting installation, note the index marks, "notches" on the neck dam. These will line up with the ends of the two split rings (139). You may find it useful to use a small piece of tape to hold the split rings in alignment. 1) Lay the split neck dam ring on a flat level work table with the two mating edges lined up to face each other. Tape the two rings together with a small bit of duct tape. Then flip the rings over so the tape is on the bottom.
Fig. 7.12 - The base of the neck dam will be marked and notched for alignment with the joints on the split rings.

Fig. 7.13 - Place the neck dam on top of the split rings.

Fig. 7.11 - Tape the two rings together with a small bit of duct tape.

2) Position the neck dam on top of the split rings so the small opening is "up" or on top and the large opening is "down" or on the bottom. The neck dam will be inside out, with the seam tape that covers the diagonal seam on the outside of the neck dam. The base of the neck dam will be marked and notched for alignment with the joints on the split rings. 3) Place the stepped ring (141) over the neck dam. The countersunk holes must be on top while the step must be on the bottom. The tongue on the front of the stepped ring will stick up above the ring, too. 4) The alignment marks on the neck dam must be positioned directly over the joints in the split rings. The neck dam must also be properly aligned from side to side with the curvature of both the split rings and the stepped ring. 5) Using a small, sharp punch, push through the neoprene and align the holes on either side of the groove for the pull strap.

Fig. 7.14 - Place the stepped neck dam ring on top of the neck dam.

Fig. 7.15 - Use a small, sharp punch to locate the bottom hole.

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SL-27 MANUAL 6) Apply a small amount of DC111 lubricant to the tip of the screws (145) that will secure the neck dam. This keeps them from binding in the neoprene on installation. 7) Insert the Allen head screws into the aligned holes on either side of the pull strap groove and start the screws. You must apply enough pressure to penetrate the neoprene. Once the threads engage continue tightening the screws three turns. 8) Use the punch to align the two screw holes at the base of the tongue on the stepped ring and start the screws in these holes. Tighten the screws three turns. 9) Press down on the stepped ring midway between the two ends of the ring. Pull the edge of the neck dam through the gap between the two sets of rings. The neck dam should protrude an equal distance all along the length of the ring between the two ends. 10) Install a screw at the widest diameter of the stepped ring on one side and tighten three turns once you have penetrated the neoprene. 11) Install another screw directly across from the one installed in Step #10, at the widest diameter of the stepped ring. Be sure that the neck dam protrudes from between the rings the same distance all the way around. 12) Install the remaining screws (145) as previously explained. 13) Install the pull strap assembly as per Section 7.5.2. 14) Install the chin strap assembly as per Section 7.6.2. 15) Tighten all the screws to 14 inch pounds (16 kg cm) of torque. 16) Allow the neck ring assembly to sit for 24 hours. This will give the neoprene time to compress and take a set.
64
Fig. 7.17 - Trim the excess neoprene using a sharp razor

17) Re-torque all screws after 24 hours to 14 inch lbs (16 kg cm). 18) Trim the excess neoprene that sticks out beyond the stepped ring. Use a sharp razor to start the cut. Once the cut is started, pull on the neoprene and maintain tension on it as you continue cutting. The cutting edge of the blade should follow the outside rim of the split rings. The point of the blade should be directed inside against the corner where the top of the stepped ring meets the step. You must have a clean cut with no loose strips of neoprene hanging from the neck dam that could interfere with the seal of the O-ring.

19) Check the torque adjustment on the neck ring assembly on a regular basis to help prevent failure of the neck seal.

SL-27 MANUAL 20) New neoprene neck dams may need to be stretched to fit the diver's neck properly. The best method is to stretch the neck dam over a scuba cylinder and allow it to sit overnight. 7.4.3 Latex Neck Dam Replacement Tools Required: 7/64" Allen Wrench. #2 Phillips Screwdriver Torque Screwdriver with a 7/64" Allen wrench attachment and #2 Phillips head screwdriver attachment. Silicone Grease. Felt Tip pen. Sharp Razor Blade New neck dams are supplied without mounting screw holes punched in them. As the mounting screws are inserted and tightened they cut their own holes in the neck dam. 1) Install the split rings inside the trimmed outer lip of the neck dam (140). Turn the neck dam over and lay it flat on the work surface. The split rings will now be hidden by the neck dam.

Fig. 7.19 - Center the split rings by pressing on the dam and feeling the inside edge of the stepped ring and the split rings.

4) Lubricate the tips of the neck dam mounting screws (145) with silicone grease. This will prevent them from grabbing and twisting the rubber. 5) Use the punch to align the holes, if necessary, and start mount screws into each one of the split rings, one on either side of the groove where the pull strap is mounted. This will help hold and align everything while the other screws are being put in. Use a torque screwdriver with a 7/64" Allen wrench attachment. Press down and turn the screw at the same time. This will punch the hole in the neck dam and start the mount screw into the split ring.

2) Place the stepped neck dam ring (141) on top of the neck dam. 3) Align and center the stepped ring to the split rings by looking at both ends. Feel the inside edge of the stepped ring and the split rings by pressing on the dam. This will help you center the split rings.

Fig. 7.20 - Use the screw to punch through the neck dam.

NOTE: The neck dam, stepped ring and split rings MUST be properly aligned in order to get the screws to thread correctly.
65

SL-27 MANUAL 7) Tighten the screws to 10 inch lbs (12 kg cm) of torque. tension a little bit at a time, until 14 inch pounds (16 kg cm) is reached on each individual screw. NOTE: The center screws cannot be torqued with a torque screwdriver, "hand torquing" these with a 7/64" Allen wrench is sufficient. 10) Use a sharp razor blade to trim the excess latex off the outside flap on the neck dam. 7.4.4 Trimming a Latex Neck Seal Tools Required: Large, sharp scissors Anytime you replace the neck dam, it may need to be adjusted (trimmed) to fit properly. New neck dams are cone shaped and may be too tight if not properly fitted to the diver's neck.
Fig. 7.21 - Tighten the screws to 10 inch pounds (12kg.cm.) of torque.

8) Install a second set of screws in the two holes immediately adjacent to the tongue on stepped ring. 9) Once the 4 "holding" screws are in place, screw the rest of the neck dam mount screws in until snug. Then torque the neck dam mount screws in a staggered pattern, taking up the

WARNING: Never dive with a neck dam that is too tight. A neck dam that is too tight could cause the diver to pass out due to pressure on the carotid artery in the neck. 1) To trim the neck dam, have your tender hold the neck dam open so that the two "edges" of the neck dam are parallel. The neck dam should be under slight tension but should not be stretched beyond its normal length.

2) Trim the neck dam with the largest, sharpest scissors available in order to make as few cuts as possible. There should be no jagged edges on the neck dam or it may tear. Trim only 1/4 inch (6.0 mm) off the neck dam at a time, trying it on after each trim.
Fig. 7.22 - Use a sharp razor blade to trim the excess latex.

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SL-27 MANUAL 3) When you are done, the neck dam should be just snug enough that it does not leak. This may feel a bit snug above water, but will be very comfortable under water. 7.5 NECK DAM PULL STRAP 7.5.1 Neck Dam Pull Strap Removal Tools Required: #2 Phillips attachment on torque Screwdriver The neck dam pull strap (142) may become worn through use. If it is only slightly frayed it is possible to singe the nylon with a match to help prevent further deterioration. 1) Unscrew the two screws (144) that secure the strap plate (143) to the stepped neck dam ring 7.5.2 Neck Dam Pull Strap Replacement 1) Position the strap plate (143) over the pull strap (142). 2) Screw the two screws (144) through the strap plate and pull strap and into the stepped neck dam ring (141) until the heads of the screws bottom out against the strap plate. Do not overtighten. 7.6 CHIN STRAP 7.6.1 Chin Strap Removal Tools Required: 7/64 inch Allen wrench attachment on torque screwdriver The chin strap must be replaced as a complete unit with its mounting plates. 1) Remove the four screws (147) that secure the chin strap (146) to the stepped ring (141). 2) Remove the worn chip strap and discard. 7.6.2 Chin Strap Replacement 1) Position the new chin strap (146) on the stepped neck dam ring. The buckle must be oriented so that the smallest side of the triangular shaped metal rings face the large end of the stepped ring.
Fig. 7. 24 - Lubricate the O-ring with a light coating of silicone grease before each diving day.

2) Install the four screws (147) that hold the chin strap in position. 3) Tighten the screws until they are flush with the mounting plates. 7.7 O-RING SEAL REPLACEMENT The O-ring (138) on the neck dam ring assembly (148) must be replaced annually, or whenever it shows signs of wear. The O-ring makes the seal between the helmet ring on the base of the helmet (58) and the neck dam ring assembly (148). To replace the O-ring (138), simply stretch it over the bottom of the sides of the neck dam ring assembly (148). The O-ring must be lubricated with a light coating of silicone grease before each diving day.

WARNING: The O-ring on the neck dam ring of the SuperLite-27 is made from a special compound and has unique dimensions. It is a softer durometer O-ring than is commonly available. There are no equivalent O-rings manufactured by other vendors. This O-ring must be replaced with a D.S.I. O-ring. Failure to do so could lead to seal failure.

67

SL-27 MANUAL 7.8 HELMET RING 7.8.1 Helmet Ring Repairs The metal ring on the base of the helmet (58) is permanently installed at the DSI factory. The helmet ring is not designed to be removed by the diver. If the ring is damaged, such as damage to the sealing surface, or the ring is bent, the helmet must be returned to DSI through your authorized dealer for repair or replacement. WARNING: The sealed pull pins must operate properly. If they do not lock properly the helmet could come off the diver underwater and drowning could result. If they do not release when needed, they could make it impossible to remove the helmet in an emergency situation. Do not use the helmet unless the pins are operating correctly. 7.9.1 Removal of Sealed Pull Pins Tools Required: 7/64 Hex Key on Torque Screwdriver 1) Unscrew the hex head screws (54) from the helmet ring on the base of the helmet (58).
54

2) Remove the sealed pull pins (130) by pulling them out of the helmet ring. 3) Return the pins to your authorized dealer replacement. 7.9.2 Replacement of Sealed Pull Pins

7.9 SEALED PULL PINS The sealed pull pins (130) that lock the helmet on the diver cannot be serviced in the field. If these pins do not work properly the pins must be returned to an authorized dealer for replacement. DSI recommends that these pins be serviced annually. Your DSI dealer can provide you with either new pins (DSI part # 505-110) or factory refurbished ones (DSI part # 505-115). Refurbished pins are hand engraved with a " S/R" on the body.

1) Insert the pin(s) (130) into the helmet ring on the base of the helmet. The cam angle must be correct for the pins to work. 2) Apply a small amount of Loctite® 222 small screw thread locker on the ends of the screws (54). 3) Insert the screws into the helmet ring and tighten to 34 inch lbs (39kg.cm.) of torque.

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SL-27 MANUAL

Fig. 7.27 - The cam angle must be correct for the pins to work.

7.10 SWING TONGUE CATCH The swing tongue catch (126) assembly helps to provide alignment for the front of the neck ring assembly (148), as well as making it easier to remove the helmet. The swing tongue catch should rarely need attention or service, unless damaged accidentally. 7.10.1 Disassembly of the Swing Tongue Catch Tools Required: Screw driver 1) Remove the screw (129) on the right side of the swing tongue catch. 2) Remove the spring spacer (128). Take care not to lose the Teflon™ washer that is attached to the inside of the swing tongue catch. If it comes loose it must be glued back in place. (A quick dry rubber cement works well). 3) Remove the screw (124) from the left side of the swing tongue catch. 4) Remove the washer (124a) and the spacer (125). The swing tongue catch should disengage from the spring now. 5) If the spring needs to be replaced this requires the removal of the regulator and whisker in order to remove the screw (127a). See Section 6.7.5 for instructions on how to remove the regulator and whisker.

Fig. 7.28 - Tighten the screw (127a) to 24 inch pounds (27kg.cm.).

Fig. 7.29 - Make sure you have not dislodged the Teflon® washer.

7.10.2 Reassembly of the Swing Tongue Catch Note: A drop of Loctite should be used on all screws.

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SL-27 MANUAL 1) Insert the hooked end of the spring (127) into the small hole in the swing tongue catch (126). Slip the swing tongue catch over the tongue of the helmet ring on the base of the helmet. The spring end goes on the right side. Make sure you have not dislodged the Teflon™ washer (126a). 2) Insert screw (129) and spring spacer (128) into the spring and thread the screw into the tongue on the helmet ring. Run the screw in until it is just snug. 3) Place the washer (124a) and spacer (125) on screw (124) and insert the screw through the hole on the left end of the swing catch. 4) Tighten screw (124) while insuring that the spacer (125) fits through the hole in the swing catch and no binding occurs. 5) Place the looped end of the spring on the top side of the helmet ring and insert the screw (127a) through it. 6) Tighten all three screws to 12 inch lbs (13kg cm) of torque. 7) Test the function of the swing catch. Also, test prior to diving with the system to ensure proper operation.
Fig. 7.30 - The Locking Collar components

7.11 LOCKING COLLAR Proper function of the locking collar is essential since this device helps hold the helmet on the diver's head. 7.11.1 Locking Collar Removal

Fig. 7.31 - Remove the two bolts from the hinge pin

152 149 150

151 152 153

154 158

155

156 157

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SL-27 MANUAL Tools Required: 9/16 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench 9/16 inch Open End Wrench If the locking collar is damaged through careless handling it may need to be replaced. 1) Use the open end wrench and torque wrench to remove the two bolts (152) from the hinge pin (151) and the two washers (149).
Fig. 7.34 - Prior to disassembly of the locking collar, mark the position of the washers.

Fig. 7. 32- Slide the hinge pin out from the hinge.

Fig. 7.35 - Unscrew the two screws that hold the neck pad.

Fig. 7.33 - Take care not to lose the two Teflon washers

2) Slide the hinge pin out of the hinge. Take care not to lose the two Teflon washers (150) that sit between the locking collar and the rear hinge on the helmet. 3) Turn the sealed pull pins (130) until they are disengaged and lift the locking collar away. 4) Clean all parts that will be reused.
Fig. 7.36 - Slide the neck pad off the locking collar.

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SL-27 MANUAL 7.11.2 Locking Collar Disassembly Tools Required: 3/8" Slot blade attachment on torque screwdriver 7/8" Open end wrench 1) Prior to disassembly of the locking collar, mark the position of the washers (158) so that it will be easy to reinstall the neck pad. 2) Unscrew the two screws (157) that hold the neck pad. Take care not to lose the T-washers (156) or washers (158). 3) Slide the neck pad (155) off the locking collar (153). 4) If the neck pad needs replacement, remove and save the screws (157) and washers (156, 158) for reuse. 7.11.3 Locking Collar Reassembly 1) Inspect the Teflon® washers (150) for wear. Replace if necessary. 2) Inspect the neck pad (155). Replace if damaged. 3) Install the washers (158) and T-washers (156) in the recesses in the neck pad. 4) Slide the neck pad onto the locking collar (155). The neck pad must be oriented so that the groove for the pull strap (142) will be on the inside of the helmet. The large flange on the neck pad must be on the outside of the locking collar. 5) Align the neck pad using the previous position of the mount nuts. Insert the screws (157) and tighten them with the mount nuts (154). 6) With the helmet resting face down, place the locking collar in position on the hinge on the bottom of the helmet ring, but do not close the catch mechanism.
Fig. 7.37 - Apply Loctite™ 222 just prior to final tightening.

7) Thread one of the bolts (152) onto the hinge pin (151) finger tight. 8) Insert this assembly through one of the washers (149) and through the locking collar hinge just far enough so that the tip of the hinge pin shows at the first bolt hole on the locking collar hinge. 9) Slide one of the Teflon ® washers (150) between the locking collar and hinge block on the rear of the helmet ring. 10) Push the hinge pin (151) through the opening in the washer and all the way through both hinge blocks until the tip of the bolt just protrudes from the opening in the second hinge block. 11) Slide the second Teflon® washer (150) between the hinge block and the locking collar. 12) Push the hinge pin (151) through the opening in the second Teflon® washer (150) and the locking collar until it protrudes from the locking collar. 13) Install the second washer (149) onto the protruding hinge pin. 14) Apply Loctite® 222 to the second bolt (152) and screw into the hinge pin finger tight.

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SL-27 MANUAL 15) Unscrew the first bolt and apply Loctite™ 222 and screw into the hinge pin finger tight. 16) Use the two open end wrenches to tighten the bolts (152) to 100 inch lbs, (112 kg cm) of torque. 7.12 HEAD CUSHION & CHIN CUSHION 7.12.1 Head Cushion Foam

Fig. 7.39 - The chin cushion.

7.12.2 Chin Cushion Foam Like the head cushion, the foam in the chin cushion (41) must be replaced when the foam begins to crumble. The foam for the chin cushion is included when the kit for the head cushion is ordered. 7.13 HANDLE AND WEIGHTS 7.13.1 Handle Removal Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver The handle (59) is a convenient location to mount television cameras, lights, and other instruments. If the handle is to be drilled to accept any of these items, it should be removed to prevent damage to the helmet shell (58). 1) The front of the handle is removed by unscrewing the top three port retainer screws (60). 2) Remove the rear handle mount screw (55). 2) Pull the old foam out and remove any small pieces. 3) Install the new foam, taking care to prevent it from bunching up. 3) Pull up on the handle (59) to break loose the RTV (silicone sealant) seal.

Fig. 7.38 - The head cushion foam is easily replaceable.

The head cushion (40) foam must be replaced when the foam begins to crumble. Order Replacement Foam Kit (DSI Part #510-672). A loose head cushion will create a sloppy fit to the helmet and cause discomfort to the diver. 1) To replace the foam in the head cushion, open the Velcro™ seams along the vertical top center line of the head cushion, at the center of the collar, and the diagonal seams along each side.

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SL-27 MANUAL 2) Place a liberal amount of RTV on the rear mount surface of the handle and in the mount screw hole of the helmet shell.

Fig. 7.40 - Unscrew the top three port retainer screws.

Fig. 7.41 - Pull up on the handle to break it loose.

Fig. 7.43 - RTV the rear mount surface of the handle and in the mount screw hole of the helmet shell.

3) Position the handle (59) and screw in the front mount screws (60) until snug, not tight. 4) Hold the handle in place and thread the rear mount screw (55) with its washer (56). Adjust this screw until it is snug, not tight. 5) Tighten the front mount screws (60) to 12 lbs. (13kg cm) of torque. 6) Tighten the rear mount screw (55). 7) Wipe off any excess RTV (silicone sealant).
Fig. 7.42 - Clean off all the old RTV silicone sealant.

7.13.2 Handle Replacement 1) Clean off all the old RTV (silicone sealant) remaining on the handle (59) and helmet shell (58).
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WARNING: Avoid skin contact with lacquer thinner and silicone sealant. Wear rubber gloves. Avoid breathing fumes and use in a well ventilated area.

SL-27 MANUAL 7.13.3 Side Weight Removal Tools Required: Flat Blade Screw Driver Wooden wedge Rubber mallet 1) To remove the side weight (61), first unscrew the two screws (62) on the inside of the helmet. It is not necessary to remove the four screws (61a) on the outside of the weight. Their only purpose is to serve as an additional mounting point for lights, TV cameras, etc.

Fig. 7. 45 - Use a wooden wedge and the mallet to break the seal between the weight and the helmet shell. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR CHISEL TO REMOVE THE WEIGHT. This could damage the helmet shell, requiring expensive repair.

7.13.4 Side Weight Replacement
Fig. 7.44 - Unscrew the two screws on the inside of the helmet.

1) Apply silicone RTV sealant to the area where the side weight (61) sits. Be sure to apply sealant to the holes where the screws (62) attach to the weight. 2) Thread the screws (62) into the weight. Tighten securely. 3) Wipe off any excess silicone sealant.

2) Use a wooden wedge and a mallet to break the seal between the weight and the helmet shell (58). 3) Remove the weight and clean off all the old RTV (silicone sealant). WARNING: Avoid skin contact with lacquer thinner and silicone sealant. Wear rubber gloves. Avoid breathing fumes and use in a well ventilated area.

SL-27 MANUAL 1) To remove the rear weight, loosen the screws (57b). Remove the screws completely. 2) Use the wooden wedge and mallet to loosen the weight. 3) Clean off all traces of silicone sealant (RTV). WARNING: Avoid skin contact with lacquer thinner and silicone sealant. Wear rubber gloves. Avoid breathing fumes and use in a well ventilated area.
Fig. 7.46 - Removing the rubber cover from the earphone.

7.14.2 Rear Weight Replacement 1) Apply silicone sealant to the area where the rear weight (57) fits. Be sure to apply sealant to the holes where the screws (57b) attach to the weight. 2) Place the washers (57a) on the screws (57b) and thread the screws into the weight (57). 3) Tighten the screws securely. 4) Wipe off any excess silicone sealant. 7.15 COMMUNICATIONS SYSTEM 7.15.1 General The communications system in the SuperLite-27 requires regular attention and maintenance for proper function. Clear two way speech communications between the diver and the surface crew is one of the most important capabilities of surface supplied diving operations. 7.15.2 Earphone Inspection To service the earphones, first remove the head cushion (40) from the helmet. The earphones (132,133) can be carefully pulled out of the retainers (42) in the helmet shell (58) for inspection and disassembly. 1) The rubber front cover is removed first, the rear cover is next removed. The protector is now free. 2) Check the wire connections. They should be solid. 3) Check the mylar diaphragm. If the mylar is torn or loose, replace the entire unit, preferably with a corrosion resistant, chrome plated mylar speaker (DSI Part # 515-008) Although cardboard speakers are available at a lower cost than mylar speakers, they
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Fig. 7.47 - Inspect the mylar earphone.

are a poor investment. Cardboard speakers must be replaced almost five times as often as mylar speakers. Cardboard speakers should only be used in emergency situations. 4) If the rubber covers are worn or damaged, replace them also. 7.15.3 Removal of Communications Assembly Tools Required: None The entire communications assembly (135) can be replaced as follows: 1) Slide the earphones (132,133) out of the retainers (42). 2) Pull the microphone (131) out of the oral/nasal mask (50). 3) Unscrew the nut (114) on the outside of the helmet shell (58).

SL-27 MANUAL 4) Push the communications module (116) into the helmet shell interior. Remove the O-ring (115). 5) The entire communications assembly (135) can be replaced with a spare assembly for the most rapid turnaround.

7.15.4 Replacement of Communications Assembly 1) Install the O-ring (115) on the communications module. 2) Carefully push the communications module (116) through the opening in the helmet shell (58). The communications posts (136), or waterproof connector (137) if present, should be pointed toward the rear of the helmet. 3) Screw the nut (114) onto the communications module (116). Tighten until snug against the helmet. 4) Place the earphones in the earphone retainers. 5) Route the earphone wires so they do not obscure the diver’s vision. The wire for the left speaker (132) is tucked into the space between the bottom of the oral nasal mask (50) and the helmet shell. 7.15.5 Microphone Replacement Tools Required: 1/8 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver The entire microphone (131) is replaced the same as the earphones by removing the wire lugs from the communications module (116) and replacing the entire unit.
Fig. 7.49 - Install the microphone in the oral nasal mask. Fig. 7.48 - Remove the rubber cover from the communications module.

5) Install the terminals for the replacement microphone (131). Note that the wires must go on separate terminals as before. 6) Install the microphone in the oral nasal mask.

1) Remove the entire communications assembly (135) as per Section 7.15.4. 2) Remove the rubber cover (120). 3) Remove the screws (121) and washers (122) from the communications module (116). 4) Lift the terminal lugs out of the communications module. Note the position of the terminal wires.

7.15.6 Earphone Replacement Tools Required: 1/8 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver The earphones may be replaced individually if needed, however, if one is “bad”, the other earphone will probably need to be replaced soon, too.
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SL-27 MANUAL 7.15.7 Waterproof Connector 1) Remove the entire communications assembly (135) as per Section 7.15.4. 2) Remove the rubber cover of the communications module. 3) Remove the screws (121) and washers (122) from the communications module (116). 4) Lift the terminal lugs out of the communications module. Note the position of the terminal wires. 5) Install the terminals for the earphones (132,133). Note that the wires must go on separate terminals as before. SuperLite-27 helmets are supplied either with an optional waterproof connector (137) or a set of terminal posts. The optional waterproof connector is subject to failure if the helmet receives rough handling. To replace the connector use the following procedure. 7.15.7.1 Connector Removal Tools Required: 3/4 inch Open End Wrench 1/8 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver 1) Remove the communications assembly (135) from the helmet as per Section 7.15.4. 2) Remove the rubber cover (120).

Fig. 7.50 - The communications components..

133 137
Diving System s

a ti o n a l Sa tern In nt

a

B
ba ar
C ra
SA A U

132

136

114 115

120 119 117 116 123 121 131 122

118

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3) Remove the screws (121) and washers (122) from the communications module (116). 4) Remove the earphone and microphone wire lugs from the interior of the communications module. 5) The nut (117) in the packing gland interior of the communications module (116) will not turn, as it will jam against the interior of the communications module. Use the 3/4 inch wrench to unscrew the waterproof connector. 6) Pull the connector through the module.

SL-27 MANUAL 7.15.7.2 Connector Replacement 1) Insert the new waterproof connector (137) into the communications module. 2) Screw the waterproof connector into the nut. Tighten until snug. 3) Slip the earphone and microphone wires back into the module (116). 4) Place the screws (121) and washers (122) through the opening on the terminal lugs in the connector (137) and earphone and microphone. 5) Thread the screws (121) into the communications module. 6) Tighten the screws (121) until snug. Do not overtighten. 7) Install the rubber cover (120). 7.15.8 Communications Posts 7.15.8.1 Communications Post Removal Tools Required; 3/8 inch Open End Wrench Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver

Fig. 7.51 - Usea 3/4 inch wrench to unscrew the waterproof connector.

1) Remove the communications assembly (135) from the helmet as per Section 7.15.4. 2) Remove the rubber cover (120). 3) Remove the screws (121) and washers (122) from the communications module (116). 4) Remove the earphone and microphone wire lugs from the interior of the communications module. 5) Remove the nuts (118), the wiring harness (123) and washers (119) from the communications posts (136). 6) Remove the communications posts (136) from the module. 7) Remove all traces of silicone sealant from the communications module.
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Fig. 7.52- Pull the connector out of the module.

SL-27 MANUAL 7.15.8.2 Communications Post Replacement 1) Apply fresh RTV (silicone sealant) to the base of the communications posts (136). 2) Insert the communications posts (136) into the module (116). 3) Install the washers (119) on the communications posts (136), then the wiring harnesses (123). 4) Screw the nuts (118) on the communications posts and tighten until snug. Do not overtighten.
Fig. 7.53 - Use a wrench to tighten the binding post nuts.

5) Wipe off any excess silicone sealant from the module. 6) Slip the earphone and microphone wires back into the module through the slot in the side of the module. 7) Place the screws (121) and washers (122) through the opening on the terminal lugs in the earphones, microphone, and wiring harnesses (123). 8) Thread the screws (121) into the communications module (116). 9) Tighten the screws until snug; do not overtighten. 10) Install the rubber cover (120). 11) Reinstall the communications assembly into the helmet shell per Section 7.15.4.

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SL-27 MANUAL

CHAPTER 8.0 ACCESSORIES

8.1 INTRODUCTION This section provides the manufacturer’s advice on how to install DSI accessories including the hot water shroud, low pressure inflator hoses, the optional locking pin, and the weld lens assembly. 8.2 HOT WATER SHROUD INSTALLATION PROCEDURES The Hot Water Shroud (DSI Part #525-100) should be used whenever diving in water colder than 35.6 0 (2 0 C). The DSI hot water kit is designed to be integrated with a hot water supply to help maintain breathing gas temperature at an acceptable level for the diver. In addition the hot water reduces the possibility of ice forming in the demand regulator or gas train components. Even with water temperatures of 40F (4 0 C) the diver can experience discomfort and severe heat loss through the respiration process. For this reason, DSI recommends installing the hot water shroud when diving in waters colder than 40 F (4 0 C). Water supply to shroud assembly should be at least 1 gallon (3.7 liters) per minute at a minimum temperature of 105 F (42 0 C). When diving operations are conducted during severe cold surface temperatures a hot water shroud should be used to prevent ice from developing in and on gas train components while the diver is on the surface. Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Screwdriver 7/8 inch open end wrench Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open End Attachment for Torque Wrench 11/16 inch Open End Attachment for Torque Wrench 1) Disconnect the bent tube assembly (16) at the side block end only. Loosen the jam nut (108) at the regulator. If the bent tube will not swivel freely, you must loosen the large nut at the regulator.

Fig. 8.1 - Loosen the bent tube.

2) Remove the free flow knob (3), locknut (1), and spring (2).

Fig. 8.2 - Remove the free flow knob.

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SL-27 MANUAL 3) Remove the emergency valve knob (24), nut (26), and spring (25). 4) Screw the regulator adjustment knob (98) in all the way. 5) To install the rubber regulator cover, slide it over the bent tube assembly (16) and stretch it over the regulator adjustment knob (98).

Fig. 8.3 - Position the shroud over the side block.

Fig. 8.5 - Install the corrugated tube.

6) Install the rubber side block cover. Start by inserting the non-return valve (37) through the square hole on the back side of the cover. All the other holes will then line up correctly. 7) Slide one of the PVC Flanges (DSI Part #520046) over the bent tube (16).

8) Install the second PVC flange in one end of the corrugated tube, (1/4 of the flange should still show). 9) Compress the corrugated tube and slide it over the bent tube (16). The PVC flange previously installed in the corrugated tube mates with the side block cover.

Fig. 8.4 - Slide one of the PVC pieces over the bent tube and insert it into the regulator shroud.

Fig. 8.6 - Install the PVC piece at the other end of the corrugated tube.

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SL-27 MANUAL 10) Attach the side block end of the bent tube to the side block assembly (39). Using the torque wrench and 11/16 attachment, tighten to 100 inch lbs (112 kgcm). if the regulator end of the bent tube was loosened, torque the jam nut (108) to 100 inch lbs (112 kg cm). 11) Retighten jam nut (108). You will need to slide the PVC flange towards the side block. 12) Stretch the corrugated tube over the side block and regulator covers. 13) Attach the tie wraps over the corrugated tube at the PVC stiffeners and tighten.
Fig. 8. 8 - The complete installation.

8.3 LOW PRESSURE INFLATOR HOSE INSTALLATION ON THE SIDE BLOCK The low pressure inflator system may be used with either conventional buoyancy compensators or dry suit systems. For certain pieces of equipment it may be necessary to use a longer inflator hose than is originally supplied by the manufacturer of the low pressure system. Tools Required: 5/32 inch Allen Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench
Fig. 8.7 - Install the tie wraps.

14) Trim the excess ends from the tie wraps. 15) Reinstall the free flow knob (3), spring (2), and lock nut (1). Tighten with a flat blade screwdriver until the valve stem is flush with the lock nut face. 16) Reinstall the emergency valve knob (24), spring (25), and nut (26). Tighten the locknut with a flat blade screwdriver until the valve stem is flush with the lock nut face. 17) The completed installation should appear as pictured in Figure 8.8.

1) Remove the plug (17) from the side block. Save this plug .

Fig. 8.9 - Removing the plug from the side block.

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SL-27 MANUAL 2) Check the O-ring on the low pressure whip to be sure it is present and in good condition. Carefully screw the low pressure whip into the side block. 3) Tighten fitting to the specifications provided by the dry suit manufacturer. Do not overtighten.

Fig. 8.11 - Remove the two plug screws from the port retainer

2) Insert the bolts through the spacer washers and then through the mount ears.
Fig. 8.10 - Installing a low pressure inflator hose for a dry suit.

4) Pressurize helmet and test connection for leaks. CAUTION! When using the low pressure port on the side block for attachment of a low pressure hose, a hose with built in flow restriction or the DSI Flow Restrictor Adapter, DSI P/N 555-210 must be used.
Fig. 8.12 - Insert the screws through the mount ears.

8.4 WELD LENS/WELD SHIELD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Tools Required: 3/8 inch Open End Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver 1) Remove the two plug screws (79) from the port retainer (78). Refer to the drawing included with the weld lens or weld shield assembly kit for the remainder of the location numbers.
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SL-27 MANUAL 3) With the rubber bumpers facing the inside of the helmet(weld lens assembly), install and tighten the two mount bolts into the port retainer. Caution - Warning These assemblies are designed to provide visual protection only. We highly recommend that extreme caution be exercised by all divers, regardless of helmet or mask used, to avoid the possibility of underwater explosions when cutting or welding. It cannot be over stressed that any underwater explosion can result in the injury or death of the diver!

Fig. 8.13 - Tighten the weld lens assembly.

DANGER: Use only the bolts provided with the kits for installation of these assemblies. Longer bolts will damage the helmet shell and/or the threaded inserts. This could cause flooding through the port. 4) Tighten the two lock nuts on the ends of the hinge studs so that the welding lens assembly can be flipped up, but will not fall down from its own weight. The Weld Shield assembly comes pretightened from the factory and should not need any adjustment.

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SL-27 MANUAL 8.6 USE OF QUICK DISCONNECT A Quick Disconnect can be used with all bailout systems. It provides greater convenience on deck while dressing the diver. It also makes it possible to separate the attachment of the bailout from the helmet should the diver become entangled underwater. All quick disconnects used must be of good quality and be capable of supplying gas without any additional flow restriction. All quick disconnects used in countries that adhere to CE standards must be CE approved. A quick disconnect is designed to be installed in any low pressure port of the diver’s bail-out regulator. The connector splits the hose into two halves, with a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other. The female connector should be equipped with a sleeve lock that must be properly aligned before the hose can be disengaged. One end of the connector is designed to be attached to the emergency valve assembly (27), while the other end of the connector is designed to attach to any of the standard low pressure ports on the DSI SuperFlow first stage regulator (or any high performance regulator) used for the bail-out supply.
Fig. 8.14 - Using the quick disconnect.

8.7 DOUBLE EXHAUST INSTALLATION The double exhaust system is used in situations where the diver needs added protection to help prevent a back flow of biological and certain chemical contaminants into the helmet. On the SuperLite 27 this is accomplished through a specially designed whisker assembly which incorporates two mushroom style flapper valves. This system has been used successfully for diving in biologically contaminated environments. However, there are certain chemicals (i.e. Toluene, Acetic acid etc.) that will attack the rubber in the valves in the exhaust assembly . BE AWARE OF WHAT YOU ARE DIVING IN! All divers must be aware of the types of pollutants and concentrations that they are working in. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT DIVERS BE SPECIFICALLY TRAINED AND UNDERSTAND THE HAZARD'S ASSOCIATED WITH CONTAMINATED WATER DIVING. More information on contaminated diving and high-risk chemicals may be found in the publication "Diving in HighRisk Environments" by Steven Barsky. It is important that divers are aware that the double exhaust valve assembly increases the exhalation effort of the regulator and therefore the overall work of breathing. This increase is not normally noticed at depths of less than 100 fsw (30 msw) but becomes more apparent as depth increases. This is due in part to the increased density of the breathing gas which causes and increase in exhalation effort and raises the overall work effort required by the diver to breath. The diver should take this into consideration and either restrict dives using the double exhaust to depths of less than 100 fsw (30 msw) or adjust his work load/rate so as not to become exhausted.

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SL-27 MANUAL CAUTION! When diving the helmet with the double exhaust whisker assembly the diver should adjust his work load/rate so as not to become exhausted. Tools Required: 1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver 1) Remove the two whisker kidney plates and spacers and screws. One set of these will be used in the installation/reassembly. 2) Following the instructions in section 6.7.5, remove the regulator, exhaust whisker, and water dump shroud. This will require removal of the nose block device, oral nasal, and bent tube. 3) Following the instructions in the Section 6.7.2 remove the regulator cover & diaphragm. Replace the regulator exhaust valve with a new one, 510-552 (white valve). Reassemble the regulator. 4) Attach the double exhaust whisker to the regulator exhaust flange. Secure with a tie wrap, 520-039. 5) Replace the water dump valve with the new valve. 510-557 (blue valve). 6) Install the regulator in the helmet shell, install the regulator mount O-ring and mount nut. Hand tighten only. 7) Attach the double exhaust whisker to the water dump body. Make sure the internal rubber ridge is in the groove in the water dump body. Secure it with a tie wrap, 520-042. 8) Attach the bent tube. 9) Secure the outlet side of the whisker with the two screws, spacers, and kidney plate removed earlier.
Fig. 8.18 - Attach the Double Exhaust Whisker to the Water Dump Body with a Tie Wrap. Fig. 8.15 - Attach the Double Exhaust Whisker to the Regulator Exhaust Flange

Fig. 8.16 - Secure the Double Exhaust Whisker to the regulator .

Fig 8.17 - Replace the Water Dump Valve with the new valve.

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SL-27 MANUAL 10) Use the two new short screws in place of the previously removed screws and kidney plate on the left side of the port retainer. Torque to 12 inch lbs (13kgcm). CAUTION! Do not use the screws removed earlier! Using these will damage the helmet! 11) Torque the regulator mount nut (49) to 100 inch lbs (112kgcm). 12) On the bent tube assembly carefully inspect the static O-ring (15) and teflon O-ring (13), replace if necessary. Reinstall the bent tube assembly and torque the side block tube fitting to 100 inch lbs (112kgcm). 13) Reinstall the oral nasal & nose block device. DANGER! Any Helmet/Dry Suit System must be leak tested according to manufacture's instructions before EVERY dive in contaminated water!

concentrations of these pollutants in the water they are working in. It is extremely important that divers diving in polluted waters be specifically trained and understand the hazard's associated with the type of pollutants in the water they are to be diving in. When using the double exhaust system it is important to understand that the overall resistive effort of breathing will increase as depth increases. This increase in breathing resistance is due in part, to the addition of a second exhaust valve in the modified whisker assembly. Normally, when diving to depths of 100 FSW (30msw) or less, this increase in breathing resistance is not apparent to the diver. As depth beyond this increases so to does the density of the breathing gas which causes an increase in exhalation effort and raises the overall work effort required by the diver to breath. For this reason the diver should restrict the use of the double exhaust system for dives requiring heavy work rates to depths less than 100 FSW (30 msw), or tailor the work rate so as not to become overworked or exhausted. More information on contaminated diving and high risk chemicals may be found in the publication "diving in high risk environments " by Steven Barsky"

The DSI double exhaust system is normally used on the SL-27 for situations where the diver needs the added protection of the double exhaust configuration. Typically, where dives are being conducted in polluted harbors or rivers where the situation may require the need for the added environmental protection. The double exhaust system was designed to help minimize or reduce the risk of water born biological and certain chemical contaminants from entering the helmet through the exhaust whisker assembly. This is accomplished with a specially designed whisker assembly that incorporates two mushroom style flapper valves. The system has been used successfully for diving in biologically contaminated environments. However, certain chemicals [i.e. Toluene, Acetic acid, etc.] will attack the rubber valves of the assembly as well as the whisker itself. BE AWARE OF WHAT YOU ARE DIVING IN! All divers must be aware of the types of pollutants, and

CAUTION! When diving the helmet with the double exhaust whisker assembly, the diver must adjust his or her work rate so as not to become exhausted.