Self-described "fat kid" Doug Katz loved chowing down on such populist delicacies after coming home after school as a kid growing up in Shaker Heights.

Well, memories are made of this at The Katz Club Diner (1975 Lee Road, Cleveland Heights, 216-932-3333).

The newly opened diner-bar features versions of Katz's childhood treats – to go with all kinds of reminders of the past, his and America's.

Located in two diner cars – from 1949 and '50 -- the place recalls another time. Yes, the long, shiny, silver cars go a long way in achieving that. Ditto for the retro red aprons worn by servers. The bottlecap stools, that old counter, the photos of the wall.

But it's the menu and set up of the place that turns back the clock.

"Twinkies are part of the American style," says Katz, as he surveys the "Coffee Counter," an old-fashioned collection of classic pastries displayed in glass-covered cake plates. "We wanted to make our homemade version of them to show that it's possible, and as part of a menu that has a timeless quality about it."

The Twinkie, named the Cream Canoe here, made for tasty companion to a bottomless cup of coffee. So did the Pocket Pie, which is a bit crustier than the Pop Tart it is based on.

Recasting childhood snack time is but one of the ideas at Katz's.

The matzo ball and chicken noodle soups are both stellar. Foodies that follow chefs such as Katz might be surprised at the simplicity of the menu.

"My attitude has always been that food should be made with simple things and taste good – and I've always wanted to do a Jewish delicatessen that did both," says Katz.

I don't think the "Adults Only" menu fits in with that, but the "Gene Wilder" drink hit the spot.

(Though I think the guy sitting across from me thought it was weird having it alongside the matzo ball soup.)

The chocolate shake comes with a shot of rum and is one of five alcohol-laced ice cream/shake/malt concoctions.

The other half of Katz' serves a broader list of booze and has a different kind of retro look.

The diner part might look like a place where film noir heroine Mildred Pierce baked her pies. The other half looks like a place Rita Hayworth would be sipping drinks.

Dimly lit, with cushy, snazzy bar chairs, it looks like some swanky joint you might find inside the Empire State Building.

Katz split the diner up into two parts to change the formula on what amounted to a tough bet for the location – which has housed a number of eateries since 2002, including the charming retro pad, Clyde's Bistro.

"I think of diners as a place where you meet people before or after going to a bar," he says. "So why not have a bar here, where people can go to before or after the diner?"

The bar car is open Wednesdays through Saturdays; the diner 7 days a week.

"I think they both fit perfectly, even though they're different," says Katz. "The idea here is to have fun and take you away from they're everyday life."

No doubt. It's a fun place and I felt the urge to go back soon after leaving.

Hmm, not sure if it's because everyday life is a such a drag or those Twinkie-like treats are so good . .

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