Is this Delhi’s best new restaurant?

No matter how much of that Fuji sushi platter you've inhaled, save room for the Ramen

While the country has woken up to the joys of sushi, the other courses of a Kaiseki meal remain uncharted. Which is something Fuji – possibly Delhi’s best new restaurant – is trying to change. Word seems to have spread quickly – barely a week old when we visited, the restaurant was already streaming with Japanese expats.

Fuji is part of a chain which, having operated successfully in Calcutta for a little over a year, has now expanded to Connaught Place in the capital (and Chennai too). The décor is minimalist. Seating is divided into sections though the plush couches and low tables seem slightly out of place. Instead, pick one of the high-backed booths or sunken floor seating that’s more suitable for the meal to ensue.

Chef Ravinder Rawat has done a splendid job executing a menu that is both exhaustive and enticing. We began our meal with an assortment (moriawase) of sashimi. The striking platter holds the usual suspects – tuna, salmon, octopus, squid – but also includes ingredients that are more difficult to come by – surf clam, ark shell and vinegared mackerel. There are over a dozen nigiri sushi options including eel, salmon roe and the famous tamago (Japanese omelette). The Fuji-nigiri moriawase platter came with an assortment of 12 and one California roll. Though, we’d pick the sashimi over the nigiri.

Next came the yakitori (skewered) selection – the salmon was particularly impressive. The gyoza, which followed, came replete with a juicy mince stuffing and was accompanied by a chilli oil-vinegar-soya dip. So far, we had been treated to a fairly rudimentary Japanese menu, but what came next was a pleasant twist. A dish native to Osaka, okonomiyaki is a Japanese take on pizza with a mix of vegetables and seafood, topped with more fish parts (flakes et al) and drizzled generously with mayonnaise and a dark sauce.

Though the sheer volume of food we were being plied with began to get overwhelming, we rolled up our sleeves and braced ourselves for the ramen. And we’ll tell you this: Whatever you do, save space for the ramen. Pick from four soups – shoyu (soy sauce base), shio (salt base), miso and tonkotsu (pork bone base) – with noodles and meat or veggies. We had the Chasyu tonkotsu ramen – winter soul food at its best.

If soup isn’t quite your thing, the donburi rice bowl is a great one-pot meal. And if you’ve still got room, there’s also the teppanyaki (griddled) section. See what we meant when we said expansive?

While most Japanese restaurants in the city have become places to see and be seen at, Fuji is for serious devotees to the cuisine. It’s comfortable and amiable, with few frills about it. You’ll be guaranteed a satisfying meal at a great price and that’s a winning combination.

GQ Recommends: Chasyu tonkotsu ramen noodles, okonomiyaki, salmon and oo-toro (fatty tuna) sashimi.Service: Warm and efficient Snooty factor: LowVibe: Until the bar is in operation, it’s great for an lazy weekend mid-day meal. Followed by a nap, of course.Price: Rs. 2,500 for two (without alcohol)

1/5

Among the usual suspects in the sashimi platter, you'll chance upon rare offerings like surf clam and vinegared mackerel.

When it comes to the yakitori section, the salmon is the clear winner.

With seafood and mayonnaise as toppings, okonomiyaki is the Japanese take on pizza.

There are several nigiri sushi options including eel, salmon roe and tamago, or Japanese omelette.