I've noted that I'm getting some weight variations since I began loading Promo powder. Didn't have this issue with Red Dot and Green Dot. About 25% of my powder drops can be 3 or 4 tenths off, mostly higher. As an example, I weighed 25 rounds this afternoon and found 20 shells weighed 17.3 to 17.4, but then found 5 which weighed 17.7 to 17.9.

I've noted that I'm getting some weight variations since I began loading Promo powder. Didn't have this issue with Red Dot and Green Dot. About 25% of my powder drops can be 3 or 4 tenths off, mostly higher. As an example, I weighed 25 rounds this afternoon and found 20 shells weighed 17.3 to 17.4, but then found 5 which weighed 17.7 to 17.9.

Right HM. I assumed a lot in my original post that I didn't add. The powder bottle was half full when I weighed the 25 rounds. I had just added the powder after shaking the 8# keg and loaded a box prior to weighing the 25 rounds. I tried my best to engage the arm, both up and down the same each time. I absolutely use a baffle, always have....it's a must.

The variable seems to be the Promo because I always weigh about 4 shells per box (I always load deliberately rather than for speed) and I haven't had this issue with other powders, including Titegroup.

Have you had this problem with Promo? Plan to also call Alliant tomorrow but was wondering if others have had this problem prior to my call.

Comments on other websites are that PROMO actually is more consistent without the baffle. The red plastic baffle for MEC being the worst culprit. Retry without the baffle and see if it is better. PROMO in my Spolar which has no baffle has not varied anywhere near that much. Normally .2 grains total spread with every lot of PROMO that I have used

sometimes .6-8, but try a static towel and after filling i drop about 5-6 drops then start the reloading. seems ok.I may this spring drop one size bushing and see how the shells shoot good luck. Mec 600jrmk5
Railroad

I usually get drops within 2 or 3 tenths. I DON'T use a baffle. I've had some problems with powder bridging in them, especially medium to larger grained stuff like Promo and Red Dot. Tried both types and won't use one. The only advantage was using the red baffle with fine grained powders like Titegroup, since they seal better and keep the leakage in check. Usually a new brass washer and a good rubber grommet helps almost as much. If it isn't broken, don't fix it. Also, if a few tenths of a grain will put your load over the top, pressure wise, you need to select a different load.

Consitency of press operation can help quite a bit, in keeping your powder drops consistent. I drop a half dozen or more and then start to check them. I'll also check them periodically throughout the loading process, just to be sure.

The speed at which the handle is pulled down can affect powder drops. Pulling the handle very fast can result in light charges. I use a baffle that is as wide as my powder hopper. Baffles restricted to the neck area of the hopper don't seem to work as well. Shaking the powder container before filling the hopper is not necessary. When the powder is poured into the hopper it separates on the way down and then becomes compacted as the machine operates. I do tap on the sides of the powder hopper after filling and operate my machine several times with the shot/powder turned off to compact the powder a bit more.

I have gotten light charges when I have not noticed my powder hopper is empty and I keep loading. I am probably th only one dumb enough to make that mistake.

It seems the biggest variable in reloading in general is the speed and force in which the handle is operated. I visited a friend who just got a new Dillon machine and I thought he was splitting wood, with the speed and force that he operated the machine. His theory was that he bought the machine for "speed" and the machine should be able to handle whatever he wanted to do with it.

Whenever anyone asks me about a reloading problem, my first advice is to slow down and think. A lot of problems get solved this way.