Masterful Manhattan Thai (2008)

I now have to retract my cruel condemnation of Manhattan Thai restaurants, ever since a couple of good ones have opened in Hell's Kitchen. PAM REAL THAI FOOD is true to its name, even featuring a handful of working-class dishes from northern Thailand (the cook is from Chiang Mai). Ask to have the food made spicy, and don't miss the duck with chile sauce or the papaya salad, crunchy with peanuts and dried baby shrimp.