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hey im new here and i just got my car Galant to day they oil light keeps lighting and flickering at idle and then when i push the gas just a little bit so it goes just like a little bit above idle the light goes if the car has enough oil in it and maybe bit to much cause i added like 2-3 liters of oil because of the light..

please just tell me if u need more information. and if u dont understand what u just wrote.. im from iceland so my english is a bit sheykee

I have tried searching online for the location of the TCC solenoid but have had no luck. Can someone help? Also I know i have downloaded the Reapir manual online before but got a new computer and cant find it anywhere. If anyone knows where i can get it, it would be much appreciated

Alright, so i changed the first 3 spark plugs in my car and now i got to get the other 3 which im pretty sure are under the intake manifold. How would I take off the manifold to change those spark plugs or should i just take it to a dealer.

I'm sitting in my car, freezing, broke down again. Somebody please help. If I start it and warm it up, my electronics will start to fade and it will usually die before I leave. If I don't warm it up, but just get in it and go, my lights will start fading, if I have turned my stereo on, it will flicker. I will have an ES light come on on the dash. My gauges will start bouncing to zeros and back. Eventually they just stay on zero. And then my car either dies, Or at lurches back to life. It will literally jerk sometimes and all of the sudden my lights are bright and all of my electronics work fine. Otherwise my acceleration stops working and I start slowing down. I can kind of use the gas, but it will not shift and it doesn't really accelerate. And then it Will just die. If I jump start it after this, it will run for a few miles before doing the same thing. If I plug it in and let the battery charge for 12 hours or so, I won't have any issues for a few days. I am at a loss. Somebody please help

My car stalls when accelerating at full gas ( engine temp normal ) and the CEL appears , i then park it somewhere and switch it off .

After 5/10 seconds i restart and it will go on like nothing happened .

I tried to look for the exact moment when this happens and it usually is around 3/4 th gear and 4000 rpm , first engine light on, and then engine stall... If i try to accelerate from start only at half throtle , it will go without any problem .

I felt also something like a "burst" of acceleration , i could go on the motorway at cruise speed with the rev counter at 3000 rpm and the car gives more speed then goes to normal ...( like a hiccup )

Could you all please have a look and tell me if this happened to someone else and how to fix it.

I have noticed that on oil stick my oil isn't showing up, I've added roughly a liter a day and still seems like it's burning the oil

About 3 months ago noticed oil light come on, I checked oil level and it was ok. About one month ago the oil light was almost always on even when I reved the engine, after started hearing a knocking sound. Checked oil level looked ok, the knocking sound continued for 2-3weeks when I rechecked oil level to see almost empty.

Hi guys . . . I just bought a 99 galant and I need help. The wire loom for the downstream O2 sensor has another wire coming out of it which leads to a white plastic connector and trails off in a wire that just hangs there. Does anyone out there have any idea where this is supposed to go so I can hook it back up again? I can't post a picture right now due to way too much snow here on the east coast. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

HeyI've been searching all of the internet and i simply can't find an Catback exhaust for my european Galant/Legnum. Does anyone on here know what other exhaust might fit. I've heard some say that the Eclipse 3,0 will fit it.Here's a picture to those who don't know what model it is.

Ok have a new problem in my 1999 galant 2.4 4g64. I have new pump in the fuel tank I installed another high pressure pump on the side of the engine block but the car is still fuel starved do I need to bleed the system from air as when I undo the top injector line it seams to be under a lot of air pressure no fuel coming out just air. When I try to start the car it just stumbles it wants to go but it won't. Is there something else I'm missing that could be the problem. Please help before I just set light to it I'm at my wits end. I

Hello all how are we all better then me I hope.I have looked on these forums and cant find the problem I am having.The car I have is a Mitsubishi gallant 2.4 dohc 4g64.I will go through the list of items I have done so far. I have replaced the head gasket , timing belt, cam sensor, maf meter, o2 sensors, in tank fuel pump, high pressure pump on the side of cylinder head/ fuel filter, spark plugs/ throttle body/ air filter.Think that's it all. I have checked and cleaned the egr valve and solenoid. Have done compression test all was good. Have checked for air leaks have none.Ok now on to the problem im having with this car. after doing the head job car started first click idled fine but when I went to put the throttle down the engine would bog out and nearly die I have tried and thought of everything and it still kept on doing it and after a while it was running and just cut out. now it wont start at all it just cranks over and tries to start but its only firing on I think 3 cylinders maybe 2. so ive pulled the plugs out heaps of times and always they are black with soot which tells me its running to rich but before all this it seemed fuel starved. IM at a total loss as to why it wont start and sooty plugs timing ive checked and double check has full compression over all cylinders no vac leaks.If anyone out there has any ideas or can help I would much greatfully appreciate it

I am having an issue with the heat in a 2002 Galant. It seems that the blend door sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. I don't drive the car very often and those that do aren't very good at paying close enough attention to describe the issue in great detail, so I'll give this my best shot.

Let me start by saying that the heat in this car, when working, is extremely warm. I can't imagine using it at its maximum setting even in the coldest weather. It was in the low 50's this morning and the heat dial was set at about midway (the white area of the dial). As the car warmed up, it was getting too warm, so I turned the dial towards the cool area (blue) and heard the blender door groan as it repositioned itself. I guess I went too far and it started to get cold in the car so I turned the dial back towards warm, but didn't hear any groans or feel any increase in temperature. For the next 15 minutes, I kept turning the dial back and forth between hot and cold but never heard the groan nor felt any increase in temperature.

I can say that from my limited past experience, I have sometimes heard the door groan and sometimes not, but even when I didn't hear it groan, the temperature was almost always adjustable. There are just these rare occurrences when the door doesn’t seem to move from the cold position. It seems as if it only gets stuck in the cold position because in my experience, the only time I seem to have a problem is when I turn the dial from very cold towards hot to heat the car, but never when trying to cool the car down. In the past I have heard the groan as I adjusted the dial from cold to hot, so that is what tells me it only gets stuck in the cold position, and right now it appears to be stuck. In other words, I can always turn the heat down, groan or no groan, but there are times (like now) when I can't adjust the temperature from very cold to warm. No groan, no temp increase = stuck door, right?

I am assuming that at some point it will free itself and allow heat into the vehicle, since this seems to be the pattern with this problem.

OK, so how do I troubleshoot this? Is the blend door buried deep within the dash or it is fairly accessible such that I can try to move it manually to free it up or lubricate it? Could it be an intermittent vacuum issue, and if so I would I determine that?

Hello from Estonia, hope you understand my bad english.Im having some problems with my 1999 Galant´s engine (2.5V6, 24V, 120KW, 6A13).Feels like some cylinder stops working at random times, any rpm, power drops. Engine light wont come on.I tryed to spray water on spark plug wires to see maybe it sparks over somewhere, but nothing was seen.Engine oil smells a bit like gasoline (~5000km driven with this oil).

Maybe here is someone who can see problem by looking at evoscan log files:[url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/liddosk0yfjkh9h/AACVqc6xMF_eg0gVDtdMkoLta?dl=0[/url]

Looks like "MAT" (manifold air temp) sensor is -40degree all the time, is that normal? Does this sensor even exist on this engine?Outside air temp was between -1 to +3 degree celsius when logs were taken.

I have a 99 Galant es 2.4 that about 3 weeks ago started spitting and spuddering. I had the engine code ran and it came back as a misfire. I've also noticed that at an idle it seems to not have much power. The headlights and dashlights dim and the heat blows alot less strong. Upon giving it gas the lights brighten and the heat comes back. If I drive like a granny it doesn't misfire too bad, it still does but its hardly noticable. If I speed up even moderately it misfires horribly. All four sparks plugs have been changed within the past few days and the coils were changed yesterday. I've checked for vaccum leaks and didn't see any. The battery is newer, not brand new but its less then 6 months old. Same with the spark plug wires. It also seems to be using more gas then usual. I'm not an expert but I have trouble believing it is fuel related because the car starts fine and runs fine for about ten miles and then starts acting up. I have a feeling that if it wasn't getting enough gas it would start having the problem instantly. Any help would be great. Thanks

My daughters check engine light came on the other day. So she had a local mechanic check it out. He told her that the code P0340 came up and said that its the Camshaft Position Sensor. So I told her I can take care of that for her. My question to all is that do you see a problem with ordering it on ebay for $20 when Autozone wants $60 and Advance wants about $65. Rockauto $37 I've seen them even as low as $13 on ebay. Whats funny is that the check engine light has gone away now.

Well it started last month. I had my check engine came one, so I thought to myself Okay. Got it looked at it was a random miss-fire So I replaced the spark plugs wires to the cylinders and both coils. Problem had not resolved itself. Though now my OBD2 scanner had said the camshaft position sensor had gone bad so we replaced that and voila no more check engine light but now the car still isn't running right. The car is loosing power underload and while I'm going up hills. The tachometer is jumping around instead of smoothly going and the car just doesn't accelerate right at all.

I'm almost thinking its either the mass airflow sensor or the throttle position sensor but I'm not too sure which it could be does anyone have any idea what could be the culprit besides these two sensors or do you believe that I am on the right track.

My issue does not seem to be going away. And its really starting to perplex me. I have an 2001 galant 4 cylinder. Has always run great minus the past 9 months. Ive been trying to diagnose things as they come and fix them but Im just not getting anywhere with it. Im getting a clunking while accelerating. It happens more often when it is warmer about 65-70 degrees and higher. It went away for the most part during the past winter So I thought I had fixed the issue.

It will be pretty quiet for days and then other days it will sound like a machine gun fire. It about 175-200 bpm approximate. Definitely sounds from the front or under front seat (but who knows). Occurs when turning or driving straight. Sound lets up when slightly taking foot off gas pedal to ease acceleration.

4 cylinder es model.

Recently done maintenance in past 8 months :

New struts, new pads and rotors front and back, replaced all 4 engine mounts, new starter, new alternator, new plugs and wires, Trans drain and fill about 4 quarts, new tires, new oil pan, new exhaust from first converter up to and including second catalytic converter, rear sway bar links and passenger front inner (i think) tie rod. I just changed the driver side front cv axle as well just to check it out and no difference. The old part looked really good still and boots on both axles are still in great shape. So its either going to be something I overlook and think still looks good but may not be or its something out of my league.

I'm new to the forum and fairly new to major "under-the-hood" transformations. I know HOW to do the work, if I only know WHAT needs to be done.Weird, I know...but there you have it.

I'm looking to replace my 2.4L with a 3.0L. I know, obviously, that I'll be swapping engines. I'm looking for coaching on everything else that will need replaced with it.I'm hoping to begin my purchases pretty soon and would like to have a list of what all I'll need before starting.

I have the main specs attached to my signature. If there's more that needs to be known before answering, let me know.

Anyone that can pass on some knowledge, tips, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Hi i have 2000 Jdm Galant with 2.0L m/ti have a problem where the headlights dont work the drl (Daytime Running Lights) work but nothing else

ive taken alot of things apart and i unplugged the headlight switch to see if it was getting power ( i dont even know if its suppose to) but i found no 12V power in either of the plugs with the car on or off it doesnt matter.

ive tried putting 12v on some vires but the only thing i can get to work is the turn signals..

i have checked the fuses and realys i can also say that if i put a 12v+ wire into one plug where the fuse goes and the ground wire in the other fuse hole i can turn the light one so i guess its safe to say that everything from the headlights to the fuse box in the hood is ok but i don't know for sure.

I got a 2000 gallant with the 2.4L engine in it and its having major issues. for one I need to replace the head gasket but it is also clogged up internally for the coolant. does anyone have detailed instructions to go by when I go to take apart this engine. any help is appreciated. pictures would be wonderful. also timingis another thing im worried about. what is the best way to time this engine? I have never really done this to a car. done plenty of dirtbikes/fourwheelers lol but never a car.

I bought a 1999 Galant ES V6 back in april for $1000. It has a salvaged title (crashed in the rear) and 156,000 miles. The car was pretty beat up but the a/c is really cold and it seemed to run pretty good. I changed the oil the week after i got the car then the next week it wouldn't start. I put a new battery in and everything was fine. Then yesterday it started but not on the first try. the car now has 163,000 miles and i have changed the oil since the first time and added z-max in the transmission because it started to hesitate but that seemed to stop the hesitation. I also put some lucas oil engine treatment in the oil and a lucas oil fuel treatment. I had the alternator tested at auto zone they said it was bad, I got a brand new one from autozone and replaced it last night. this morning the car started but i had a brake light and a batt light on the dash that i have never had before. Had the battery tested today and it was bad, i put a brand new battery in and the brake and batt lights on the dash are still on and now the transmission is slipping all of a sudden a lot worse than it was. Now my wife was driving home from the store and it just died again. I have never dealt with a manual belt tensioner before but i think i have the right amount of tension. If the belt was to tight or too loose would it even cause these types of problems? I am about to go down stairs and check all the fuses but any advice would help. thanks

Hi All, i'm new to the community with a recently acquired 1998 Galant VR A/T. Some observations off-the-bat:

1. Engine seems to be running rich. Smoke is basically transparent but i can readily smell strong fumes. What seems to be wrong? The car doesn't seem to have lost any power. Will cleaning the MAF and throttle body help? Fuel consumption seems to be very bad now.

2. I also noticed a slight steady vibration of the engine. idling seems to be smooth though. What can this be?

3. Being a first-time Galant owner, what parts or conditions must i closely watch out for?

My friend is selling a 6G74 GDI 3.5L V6 engine that came from his 2002 Pajero. The engine comes with the automatic transmission (INVECS II), sensors, ECU, harness and engine mounts. Will it be an easy and smooth engine swap into a 1998 Galant VR?

Will the mounts align readily and will there be any issues with the fuel system and other systems?

Very happy to have you , and I'm the senior member (knowledge lol) in the Galant section. Hope for find it pleasant here and helpful

I have made my research but still could not find if my two issues are related . Anyway, four or six months ago I had a repeated P0400 issues. I clean the EGR valve and yes it was black inside. It took me two days of soaking/cleaning with Seafoam to make it look like new. I also replaced the vacuum solenoid and everything worked well. For a few months that is. My daughter borrowed it for a month and when I got it back the MIL is on and again it's a P0400 code. I can clear it and it comes back in a day or two of normal use. Also, it hesitates on acceleration but runs very smooth after the initial stutter/hesitation. Are these two issues related ?? BTW, I have ordered a new EGR valve. I just have a feeling it is sticking. A few months ago when I first had this issue it had a hard time idling but now it idles very well just the annoying hesitation upon acceleration.

Thanks in advance for any reply or info. This is my new retirement hobby. Even got the car repainted last week. Wife thinks me crazy.

Hey Everyone, new to the forum as well as owning a Mitsubishi. I just came into a 2003 Galant that was basically given to me because the folks that owned it didn't know what was causing the issues that it is having. It's getting fuel, but no spark at the spark plugs. They said that they replaced the ecu, but the ECU is the unit behind the dash if I am correct, and what they showed me they replaced is a small plug in box located inside the fuse box under the hood. Is that the front ECU, and if so were they supposed to flash or program it? So basically my question is where do I start looking on this vehicle? I am not new to wrenching on vehicles, but it has always been older vehicles or GM. Thanks in advance for any info or advice as to where I can find some information on this car so I can do some digging is also appreciated. Take it Easy Guys.

Hello I have a 2001 Galant GTZ it has a little over 200,000 miles on it. I flushed my radiator a while back and i didnt have time to drain the water and put in antifreeze. and that evening temperatures go down to freezing. The following morning i went to start my car and it was sluggish it ran for about 5 mins then shut off. It warmed up that evening and when i tried to start the car it would turn over but it wouldn't start. I noticed that one of the freeze plugs had popped out. I installed a new plug and filled the radiator with antifreeze. I tried starting car again and I got the same result it would turn over but wouldn't start. I removed each spark plug one at a time (each one soaked with oil) to see if i was getting any spark and none of them were working. Is this a simple fix or will have have to replace the distributor?

I bought rotors at 2 different parts stores and they both exhibit the same problem: Once the wheel is mounted and the lug nuts are tightened, the rotors press up against the backer plate for the emergency brake and jam the wheels up tight. You cannot turn the wheels by hand.

When I compare the backs of the old rotor to the new rotors I see that the 1/4” ridge that surrounds the back of the "top hat" area is much higher on the new rotors. I suspect that the ridge on the old rotors had worn away, allowing corrosion to build up on the emergency brake backer plate. Once the new rotor, with the full size ridge is installed, the corrosion causes the rotor to jam up. Without the lug nuts pushing the rotor as far back as it will go, it spins fine.

So here's my thought. I have some washers which measure just over 1/32” in thickness. They are the perfect size to fit over the studs. When I put a washer on each stud, then install the rotor, I can tighten the wheels up as tight as I want and everything spins just fine. The pads don't rub and the wheel spins freely.

I've test driven the car with the washers installed and it seems fine. No vibration, no heat buildup, etc.

Does anyone see an issue with using these washers as a "permanent" fix? Thanks!

1st time, made ticking sound then started2nd time, would not start at all, lights where dime and again made ticking soundI got a boast and it started, I've replaced the battery and seems ok. Yet my after market car start doesn't start the car anymore but locks/unlocks the doors.

Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I think is a valuable source of information, and in this case I would like to ask about something I could not find anywhere else.

I own a 1997 Galant VR, which here in Uruguay is the 2.5 V6 SOHC non-turbo version sold in Europe and Latin America (UK, also Brazil, etc), with engine code 6A13.

I am having the lifters ticking issue which is very annoying, and the revving methods I read about seem to quiet it a bit but it returns right away. I may try one of the engine cleaning methods, but in case I want to replace some, or all 24 lifters, I need to get them overseas and for this I am facing this problem:

This engine code, 6A13, was not sold in the US. I have seen lifters in "short" version and in "long" version, but none for my engine code. I guess one of them should be good for my engine but not sure which one.

Just yesterday noticed that my driver side door isn't always being locked. I noticed that when I press the inside door lock the driver's door check isn't always showing as locked. I have a after market keyless car starter, hence never use the key lock on the driver side. The door is still locking 50% of the time I need to press the keyless lock twice, any ideas?

I have a Mitsubishi Galant -03 in which the clutch have started "squeaking". When pressing the clutch a squeaking/grinding sound can be heard all the way from the top to the bottom. However, there is no noise when releasing the clutch. The noise seem to be mostly "cosmetic", because I have not noticed any change in the clutch operation. I have localized the squeaking sound and it seem to originate from the engine compartment.

Looking at the attached picture, Figure A seem to be involved because it "vibrates" when the clutch is pressed. I have tried spraying some wb40 on figure B, but without any result. My question is, would it be safe to spray wb40 on figure C as well? I'm assuming it's connected to the gearbox and the gearbox doesn't like to get this kind of oil on the lamella, correct? Is there something else I can do? I should also add that my "car repair skills" are very limited so I'm not going to disassemble the gearbox.

2000 galant my windows wont go up or down all 4 of them my locks work radio all lights but no power windows ........check all my fuses on the driver side of the dash and under hood all are good...ANY IDEAS

Hey Folks,I have an ES v4 with error code P0421, referring to bank 1. I have searched plenty of post across the web where everyone refers to where bank 1 and 2 are on v6 galants but not v4. Can anyone help me idenity the location of this bank so I can attempt to change the o2 Sensor. Any pointers would good as well. Also I changed my plugs a few days ago, and noticed I had some oil on one. Could this have caused my P0421 error? ( the error has come back after changing the plug as well)

Recently My 2002 2.4 litter galant @ 230k miles decided to not start... Their is cranking, new spark plugs, gas, checked for spark, both fuel pump relays are clicking when I add 12 volts to them ( novice at work)

All seems ok but it's not getting fuel. So I got a new fuel pump @ $160 I can only hear the fuel pump start if I crank the engine

But When I turn the key to the on setting... Nothing seems to happen...

Is it suppose to prime once u turn your key to the on position(Any help would be appreciated)

I wanted more up-to-date car reliability information that included actual repair rates. So in late 2005 I started getting people together to make this possible. TrueDelta now updates actual repair frequencies, not just dots, four times a year, to track cars closely as they age.

We've been reporting reliability stats for most of the Galant's competitors for some time. I'd like to do the same for the Galant--just a matter of getting enough owners involved. Currently the 2002 is about 2/3 of the way to the minimum, and the 2001 and 2003 are about half way.

Participants simply report repairs the month after they occur on a one-page survey. When there are no repairs, they simply report an approximate odometer reading four times a year, at the end of each quarter.

To encourage participation, participants receive full access to all results, not just those for the Galant, for free. I'll share results for the Galant in this thread after each update.

This week I replaced the timing belt, power steering belt, alternator belt and the water pump, garage charged roughly 3.5 hrs labour and $280 parts. I've only been driving the car over the weekend and noticed that when about to change gear the engine seems noiser now then before the belt change. Is that normal due to new belt? I haven't noticed anything else so far...