For the past few days, we’ve been driving through Northern Italy, where the scenery looks something like Under the Tuscan Sun meets The Sound of Music. Which is to say, it’s incredible. Apparently, farmers in the area have a tradition of taking cat-naps in the piles of fragrant hay, which often contain the wild herbs and lavender that grow alongside the tall grasses. We’ve crossed over a number of high mountain passes that have landed us in valleys full of fields of hay, where the smell of warm sunshine on freshly cut grass is almost intoxicating.

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The ridiculously turquoise Soca River courses down the Alps and into the verdant valley below. Watched over by a towering castle, the blue-green lake wraps itself around a tiny, perfect island, on top of which sits a tinier, more perfect church. (In fact, in one mountain town we visited, we were just a five-minute walk away from both countries. The experience was exhilarating, only a little scary and–like so much of what we’ve seen in Eastern Europe–highly recommended. ) We spent most of our time in the Alps in a small town called Bovec, which is in the valley (the Soca) that witnessed the World War I battles that became the setting for Ernest Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms. We were in the Skocjan Caves, a series of underground chambers covered in stalactites and stalagmites whose bright coloring reflect the myriad minerals they contain. It is joined by another river, the Susec, which has carved out the canyon that served as a veritable waterslide for us during our first-ever attempt at an adventure sport called, accurately, “canyoning. Slovenia’s Julian Alps were our final destination in Eastern Europe, and they turned out to be one of the our favorite places in the world. Some 99 stairs connect the lakeside dock with the church, and it’s said that grooms often try to prove their “fitness” for marriage by carrying their brides up the entire flight. Unsurprisingly, the church is a popular setting for weddings. Named after Julius Caesar, the Alps occupy Slovenia’s northwest frontier with Italy and its northern border with Austria. (Hemingway drove an ambulance for Italy during the war. A river ran through the last cave in the series, and we had to cross it via a dizzying bridge that I really wish we could’ve captured on film. From Slovakia, it was on to Slovenia, where our first foray into the natural world took us into what felt like the bowels of the earth. ” Donning neoprene bodysuits, aquasocks, helmets and plastic diaper-looking things that allegedly make it easier to slide over the rocks but are potentially there only for the amusement of our guides, we climbed up part of a mountain (not a tough hike overall, but made much more difficult by the fact that were were wearing not shoes but aquasocks) and then slid and jumped our way back down to the bottom. When I suggested to Derek that he attempt the feat, he became very interested in photographing the family of swans that make their home on the water’s edge. )

After the caves came Lake Bled, Slovenia’s most popular tourist destination, and for good reason. (Sadly, taking pictures in the caves is not allowed. )

Looking around at the incredible scenery, it was kind of hard to to believe that anyone could retain the will to fight in the midst of beauty like this.

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