Published 4:00 am, Friday, April 24, 1998

It's heartening to see restaurants that continue to spruce up and improve beyond what is needed to turn a profit.

Take Rivoli, for example. This Mediterranean-inspired restaurant on Solano Avenue in Berkeley has been packed from the day it opened.

The cinder-block building didn't look great, but Wendy Brucker's cooking and Roscoe Skipper's front- of-the-house talent made it a success.

Still, although nothing was broken, they went through a major remodel -- resurfacing the front, adding a peaked facade and giving the restaurant a jewel-like presence.

The cinder block disappeared inside, too. The entrance and bar were reconfigured, and a new color scheme washed in green and burnt umber replaced the red and yellow of yesteryear. The garden in back is in full bloom, giving diners a relaxing view of nature even though the area can't be used for outdoor seating. (Tucked into the corner is a small house built for the four stray cats that now call Rivoli home. With an attitude like that, you know you'll be well treated.)

Brucker's food is consistently excellent. I'd put the appetizers we had on our last visit up against any in the city: a delicate but robustly flavored combination of chopped artichokes in a puff pastry sandwich ($7.75) surrounded by thin slices of prosciutto, beets and lacy greens. The signature slices of portobello -- battered, deep-fried and served with a topping of shaved Parmesan, capers and a crock of lemon aioli ($6.95) -- are always outstanding. And Rivoli offers a perfect rendition of Caesar salad ($6.50). Main courses were a little less inspiring, if only by comparison. The pot roast ($14.95) and buttery mashed potatoes were wonderful, for example, but the baby greens served as garnish were tough and got caught in the throat like fish bones. I loved the halibut ($14.95) surrounded by fava beans and a garden of spring vegetables and roasted new potatoes. And leg of lamb ($15.25) had a straightforward flavor with nuances of garlic and rosemary, served with a potato gratin that wasn't improved by the addition of wild rice. We also loved the puffy, light gnocchi ($13.75) with asparagus, the flavors brought together with cream, prosciutto and Parmesan.

Desserts lacked the fine-tuned crafting of the savory courses. The rhubarb and almond-brown butter cake ($5.50) needed a bit more sweetness and more intense nuttiness; the surrounding fruit was almost puckery tart. The warm chocolate cake ($5.50) had a pleasing creamy texture, but the bitter edge made the palate grow weary. It was nothing that a little sugar to smooth the edges wouldn't have cured.

This Extravagant Zebra Tent Is An Ole Miss Tailgating LandmarkSLivingTime

Teresa Giudice Vs. Emeril Lagasse: Whose Marinara Is Better?Delish

Fireball Marshmallows Are The Best Thing For Boozy Hot CocoaDelish

Best. App. Ever.Delish

Chicken Enchilada Soup Is Our New Dinner ObsessionDelish

Skipper runs a tight operation and the service is efficient without ever crossing over to pretension. On the night we visited, he had donned his waiter's uniform and was working alongside the staff. Just another example of knowing you're in caring hands.

Latest from the SFGATE homepage:

Click below for the top news from around the Bay Area and beyond. Sign up for our newsletters to be the first to learn about breaking news and more. Go to 'Sign In' and 'Manage Profile' at the top of the page.