With his previous Windy City restaurants, Paul Kahan paid tribute to European beer halls (The Publican) and the Mediterranean coast (Avec). Now, with Nico Osteria, his seventh establishment (and his first in a hotel, the glossy Thompson Chicago), Kahan turns his attention to Italy: specifically, the country’s tradition of superlative seafood. But while the inspiration may be Italian, the innovations—and liberties— are many. “We like big flavors and aggressive seasoning,” says Kahan, who runs the restaurant with chef de cuisine Erling Wu-Bower (the two also worked together at both The Publican and Avec). This means a menu stocked with surprising dishes like madai snapper crudo with kohlrabi salsa verde, and house-made squid ink bucatini with sardines and chilies. Next door, Salone Nico, the restaurant’s bar, keeps la dolce vita flowing with cocktails made with Aperol and Vecchia Romagna brandy (1015 N. Rush St.; 312-994-7100; nicoosteria.com; entrées from $15).