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Reviewed by EuroCheapo.com Editors

Perched high above Lisbon next to the castle's walls, the Pensao Residencial Ninho das Aguias is an enchanted and old-fashioned guesthouse. Don't expect luxury or modern amenities—but do expect views that money can't buy.

The Ninho das Aguias was built in 1885 as a private house (with a tower) and converted to a hotel in 1958. Friendly Filomena, the Ninho das Aguias' proprietor, has been running it with gusto since the late 1970s and has decided to keep things simple. You'll appreciate her decision when climbing the spiral staircase, lounging in the garden—and paying your bill.

The 16 guestrooms are stark and simple, with white walls and yellow curtains. They are furnished with the simplest of wooden pieces. Rooms have telephones, although they don't have TVs, air conditioners or fans. (“Just open your window,” she explained. It does get quite a bit of wind up there.) Some rooms have a private bath with either a shower or tub, while eight cheaper rooms share two toilets and two showers.

Half of the Ninho's rooms open to the jaw-dropping “big view” over Lisbon. The other rooms, for the most part, still have views of something—maybe a side city view or a view of the castle wall (ask ahead). The one room without a view opens to the gardens.

You can relax downstairs in the pension's reading room, which is hung with abstract art. You could also take in the breeze from the patio and garden. Or, better yet, climb the staircase all the way up to the lookout tower. Take a cup of tea up there and drink in the 360-degree views.

Note: Staying at the pension requires a lot of climbing. First you have to get there (take tram #12 from Praca Figueira to “Sao Tome” or just take a cab). Then you climb steep stairs to the garden level. Once inside the house, you'll wind your way up to your floor. Needless to say, the pension doesn't have an elevator. In the words of Filomena, “leave half your luggage at home.”

No breakfast is served, but there are several cafés nearby. Cash only. Call the pension to reserve—no reservations are taken by Internet or Web.

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About the Pensao Ninho das Aguias neighborhood

To the East of Baixa, Alfama, Lisbon's castle district, sits perched above the Baixa. The Castelo de São Jorge is its crowning glory. Having survived the earthquake of 1755, the district is charmingly chaotic, with pockets of restaurants and shops, alleyways, little parks and broad views over the river.