Had a bit of an experiment today, to see if I can minimise the service panel in the Dino King cabs even further. I settled on a location on the left of the cab, above the coin box.

With some chopping down of the service panel metal and drilling a few holes so fixing bolts can be attached, I can sneak it into place under the upper shelf support, attached to the side cab metalwork.I should be able to keep both shelves free for larger game boards up top, an MVS mobo in the middle, and space at the bottom for something else like smaller PCBs or a Pi-JAMMA kit.

I have a couple of issues though... to fit the service panel here means I have to cut off the right hand side beyond the sticker & service button. This means I lop off the current support 'foot' for the panel - once done, it can never be used horizontally ever again

Also does the service panel have to be electrically isolated from the cabinet metal? It was originally on an MDF shelf and has 100V+ going through it for the monitor deguass + power switches. But the panel itself is fully earthed, and was originally bolted to all manner of internal metal plating that separated the ticket dispenser area from the game boards and transformer, and was connected to the cabinet metal anyway.

Well the hot-swappable panels are now done. Seems to have taken an age
to get the cab looms spliced, connectored and then do the same for the
CPs. They can now be unplugged and re-connected at will for whatever
game setup is required. The button colours are all a bit random for now,
while I play with various theming ideas.

I now turn my attention
to the 4th cab (currently with Mushi King bezel on it), which is
blowing the plug fuse.. much experimentation needed to find out what it
is exactly..

Sadly not had a chance to mess with the fuse issue much. I've swapped over the mains filter box itself with another cab for now and I'm seeing if the issue moves to the other cab or not.

If not I have some 7amp fuses to see if it's just down to a startup surge when powering up.

Beyond that I'll have to swap out the transformer to see if that's the issue. Finally I have the option to bypass the mains filter completely. I had a quick look for replacements but there's nothing with the same values as the ones Sega used unfortunately.

I've had 2 problems like that with the Dino's I've converted, 1 was the mains filter had gone bad and kept tripping the RCD, and the other one was from one of the longer wired power connections inside that wasn't being used anymore once I'd converted it also tripping the RCD, once I removed all the superfluous power wiring it stopped.

I've got both Sanwa's and Seimitsu's on these. The Sanwa is a JLF like yours and the Seimitsu's are a mix of LS32's and LS55's. Pretty much all the joysticks are refurbs from 2nd hand sticks bought on the forums.

If you are having control issues, maybe worth setting the joystick gates to 8-way before buying replacements? Depends what game you are running on emulation though I suppose.

Just a teeny update. The side holes always bugged me a little on my Dino Kings. The three on each side where the original security bar was in place.

So
I finally ordered a few bolts to cap these off. I spent a good while looking for white plastic ones, but no joy.These work quite well,
but I guess I should spray the heads gloss white to match the paintwork:

Not updated here in a while so I thought I'd stick up some recent bits I've been working on for the recent Revival X event that went off last weekend!

It was decided that my 3rd cab would become a 'Bubble Bobble' dedicated for the event, so I set to work sorting out the artwork.A few people have asked what my process is for doing the custom art - basically I gather as many scans of flyers, marquees and manuals as possible and quickly lay out the elements in sketch / outline form to get a feel for where I want them to be.Then I go round cleaning up and redrawing each element until I'm happy with them - ultimately trying to get the art to look like it was originally designed to be that way. A homage to the originals - but a modern take on them.

Bubble Bobble was mainly a case of cleaning up outlines and adding decent colours after working from a high resolution but badly coloured scan, but I also had to scour Japanese Famicom manuals for the instruction strips, given the aim was to make this a Japanese version of the cab.

Once complete the artwork was printed onto card, and the original Dino King artwork carefully removed using a hairdryer.With the plastic cleaned and polished up, it's simply taped into place with masking tape.A few buttons changed to match the colours of Bub & Bob and voila!

I'm really happy the result - here's how it looked at Revival in the mini-cab lineup:

Not updated here in a while so I thought I'd stick up some recent bits I've been working on for the recent Revival X event that went off last weekend!

It was decided that my 3rd cab would become a 'Bubble Bobble' dedicated for the event, so I set to work sorting out the artwork.A few people have asked what my process is for doing the custom art - basically I gather as many scans of flyers, marquees and manuals as possible and quickly lay out the elements in sketch / outline form to get a feel for where I want them to be.Then I go round cleaning up and redrawing each element until I'm happy with them - ultimately trying to get the art to look like it was originally designed to be that way. A homage to the originals - but a modern take on them.

Bubble Bobble was mainly a case of cleaning up outlines and adding decent colours after working from a high resolution but badly coloured scan, but I also had to scour Japanese Famicom manuals for the instruction strips, given the aim was to make this a Japanese version of the cab.

Would it be possible to get a copy of the artwork (or just a size template) you used for the new artwork?

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