My ultimate classics: Pumpkin soup

From fish cakes to treacle sponge and beef hotpot - perfect recipes for traditional favourites from the new expert judge on MasterChef: The Professionals

Pumpkin soup has easily got to be the best autumnal comfort food

Well-made pumpkin soup is one of life’s simple pleasures. To achieve the best results, use the ripest pumpkins. When pumpkin isn’t in season, this recipe works just as well with butternut squash.

Serves 6

For the chicken stock

Makes about 1.3ltr (2¼pt)

1 organic chicken weighing about 1.5kg (3lb 5oz)

2 onions, cut into 2cm (¾in) pieces

1 leek (both green and white parts), cut into 2cm (¾in) pieces

3 celery sticks, cut into 2cm (¾in) pieces

½ a bulb of garlic (cut crossways)

1 sprig of fresh or dried thyme

2 bay leaves

Sea salt

For the soup

1.4kg (3lb 3oz) ripe pumpkin

100g (3½oz) unsalted butter

1.3ltr (2¼pt) hot chicken stock

100g (3½oz) fresh Parmesan, grated

3-4tbsp double cream

Sea salt and freshly milled black pepper

To serve

Extra-virgin olive oil

Shavings of fresh Parmesan

MARCUS'S KEY TO PERFECTION

For a velvety texture, the pumpkin must be thoroughly cooked at each stage or it won't purée smoothly. Put the lid on the pan while the pumpkin cooks in the butter at the start to make it sweat so moisture drips from inside the lid into the pan.

First make the chicken stock. Remove the breasts from the chicken and use for another dish. Chop the rest of the chicken in half and wash in cold water, then put in a large, heavy saucepan and cover with cold water.

Bring to the boil over a high heat and skim off the scum with a ladle. When the stock is clear of scum, add the vegetables, garlic, thyme and bay leaves, and bring back to the boil. Skim again, turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer, and cook uncovered for 2½ hours, skimming regularly.

Towards the end of cooking, taste and add salt a little at a time until you get the correct seasoning. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pan or bowl, pressing down on the bones and vegetables with a ladle to release all the liquid. Use the chicken stock immediately, or cool quickly and refrigerate in a covered container, then remove any surface fat before using.

Cut the pumpkin into chunks and scrape out the seeds. Peel off the tough skin and slice the flesh thinly. Heat the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over a medium-high heat until it foams and turns nut brown. Add the pumpkin, sprinkle with salt and stir well, then turn the heat down to low. Cover and cook gently for 15 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time.

Pour in the hot stock, increase the heat and bring to the boil. Add the Parmesan cheese and stir in, then turn the heat down to a simmer. Cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally so the Parmesan doesn’t stick on the bottom of the pan. Purée the soup in a blender, working in batches, then pass through a fine sieve into a clean pan.

Whisk in the cream and reheat the soup gently, then taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls, drizzle over some olive oil and top with Parmesan shavings. Serve immediately.