“I want to create the most comprehensive pasta program in the United States, presented in the most authentic manner, with full recognition and respect of the history and origin of each shape and its corresponding condimento,” says Funke.

Naturally, the beating heart of his restaurant kitchen is the dough room, a mad scientist’s laboratory of filled with flour, water, salt and nimble-fingered cooks. A dozen pasta shapes are on the menu now, from thick pappardelle to shell-like strascinati, but Funke hopes to crank out up to 20 as the staff becomes more experienced.

However, don’t think of Felix as just pasta—“I’m not focused on any singular item,” he says. “I’m more focused on everything being in harmony.” Rather, the restaurant is an ode to everything Funke loves about Italy—the deep-rooted traditions, the people of in northern, central, southern and the islands of the country.