The Monroe Street restaurant hits its stride after slow start

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John Gadau and Phillip Hurley's latest endeavor combines many of the attributes that made Marigold Kitchen and Sardine winners. Food is bright and appealing; service competent and welcoming. The limited menu clearly targets parochial predilections, with cheese curds, burgers, wedge salads and Friday fish fry. But there’s a dinner-on-the-shore déjà vu, too, with clam chowder, oysters on the half shell, beer-steamed shrimp and whole Maine lobster. Utilitarian but comfy, Gates & Brovi appropriately conveys a clam shack feel. The aim is to be a neighborhood rendezvous, but it’s sure to draw those from the hinterlands to the near west side.