The first time I met Anastasia Radevich was for lunch at Fred’s (Barney’s top floor)- this was almost like 8 months ago… I was excited to meet her- from her designs I could only assume that she was very smart and talented. We ended up having a four hour lunch, and out of that lunch came an opportunity for a collaboration. We talked about how much we loved leather jackets, motorcycles, night time, and it seemed like we could agree on a lot of things when it came to craftsmanship and design. When I met Anastasia, she had a beautifully quilted leather jacket on. I was wearing my plain black snakeskin jacket.

I am assuming that many of you thought this was going to be a shoe, but we both wanted to do a leather jacket…Some of Anastasia’s shoes are not only beautiful but also technology driven, and I have a lot of experience with leather jackets, so we decided to bring these strengths together to create something that was not only aesthetically pleasing but also functional. We discussed how at night, there are many motorbike related accidents because there’s not much light-there are many motorbike accidents in general just because there is absolutely no protection for your body, but at night time there is less visibility. From far away it’s very hard to see these bikers, and the way they ride is very aggressive sometimes, they just come out of nowhere. Our idea was to bring more light to the rider, so that you could see them coming from afar. The main reason why I wanted to collaborate was because I thought it would be cool to have Anastasia design something that’s not a shoe, and on my part I was just filled with curiosity. I never worked with integrating light into a leather jacket, so I knew it would be a huge challenge. And now that we’re done, I can’t believe it, because this project was really difficult for both of us.

In this post we’ll take you through the whole creative process and our final prototype. It’s a lot but we kind of want you guys to see how we came up with design details and the choices we made a long the way, just so you understand why it looks the way it does at the end.

We also wanted to design a custom box that was completely hand made from scratch to house the jacket.

The box opens from the center almost like a jewelry box.

We had a sketch finalized, but even still, design details changed a long the way.

See this detail on the upper right corner..the close up of the shoulder. It was important to create a distinction between these kind of padded shoulders that have a seam set in the shoulder, and the shoulder that we drew. See with that burberry jacket I just linked to, you see the padded detail stops abruptly to compensate for the shoulder seam that’s set in. One of the MOST challenging aspects of this design was not only integrating the technology but also creating a sleeve without that shoulder seam set in, we had to literally shape the padding or even sculpt it around the shoulder, and each padding increment was a seam that was cut individually and sewn..and then it was padded. We didn’t want to compensate and abruptly cut off the shoulder and include a seam there because it would lack fluidity. The shoulder is almost globular.

Another patience testing element of this jacket…. We wanted to die with this collar. It was so hard to get this collar to literally sit perfectly around the neck so that it looks like it’s banded almost like a piece of jewelry… We cut 3 and by the fourth one we got the collar perfect. To us the waste of leather is no matter, but everything had to be just right. Also, you’ll notice in the sketch there are exposed snaps, but we decided that the collar looked so much better without them, it has a much more futuristic vibe. It is amazing what you can create visually just by eliminating.

Instead, snaps are brought inside with secure magnets.

Another detail, we used a separating invisible zipper for this. We bought an exposed metal zipper, but once we tried it with the leather, it did not look right. The silent, minimal collar was being too overshadowed by the metal exposed zipper. The invisible zipper is probably my favorite part of this jacket. Anastasia was pretty specific about the leather color too, we wanted a ‘Ghostly Grey’ kind of tone, like kind of off white but darker..with a nice pearl-y sheen. Never feel like you have to follow conventions of course a metal exposed zipper is standard for a leather jacket, but it’s just that slight twist, you don’t see leather jackets with an invisible zipper but that’s exactly why we wanted to do it. Does it work? Yes. You’d think you could only use invisible zippers for thin fabrics, but it’s not true.

Another one of our challenges, or maybe just mine. Anastasia had experience with technology so this was easier for us, but it was still hard because all of the technological components of this jacket had to be integrated with stealth. We thought logistically about how to include the switches. Above all though, Anastasia and I, we don’t care for going crazy and creating art for arts sake. At the end of the day, it’s got to be wearable for the customer. They have to see the garment and feel confident that this is something they can use, doesn’t matter how beautiful a design is. We did our best to integrate the technology as seamlessly as possible, so it doesn’t feel like the person is wearing some kind of wacky computer.

The two side switches are included in the lining with small pockets in the same fabric so it kind of camouflages.

Here you see the light peeking through. once you’re done with the switch, you tuck it back in so it doesn’t show.

The bigger panel at the back (the wings) has much more light, and requires a stronger battery. The material we used is beautiful, it’s this light organza with galaxy-esque lights. This was included in the back of the jacket. The battery here requires a charger, whereas the other two just require small coin sized ones that are replaceable.

This is the transparent organza material we’re talking about.

Another difficulty, this organza (though delicate) integrates fiber optic lights that are all connected to wires. It was crazy to get this wing into the shoulder seams..Sewing shoulders and perfecting sleeves is hard enough as it is…

It’s amazing what’s possible for us with technology. Even though Anastasia lives in Montreal and Italy, this collaboration was possible because of technology. We were able to communicate everything we wanted for the final prototype to each other and each of us were able to work on the jacket successfully- Had we lived in a world where one would have to write letters which are sent via horse carriages…we’d never be able to collaborate. And, because of this blogging platform (which is also a product of technology) we are both able to share this work in a lean manner (without too much cost) in a very quick and efficient way.. I just sent her an e-mail hours ago to let her know that the collaboration is done and to thank her for working with me. More soon, thanks for reading.

Stunning, beautiful, innovative. I can’t think of more words to describe this functional piece of art. The invisible zipper with this type of material? Amazing! What a wonderful collaboration! Congratulations!

always love to read about your inspiration! and yes they are less visible! my daddy has a fluo orange helmet and yellow jacket to be visible. what an innovative piece this is! sometimes it can look too futuristic, but the design and the texture of the jacket is simple insane! if i ever buy a bike again, i will buy a jacket like that! i was thinking ‘such a jacket needs a ducati, and what do i see: a ducati

Terrific. One thing I might like to see changed is the shape of the cape- with the arms down it looks a little costume-y and untailored, too much fabric. Maybe a semicircle instead, or somewhat clipped corners? Otherwise amazing.

One of the most epic collaborations in fashion lately. I like the tinkerbell of the future badass look. Never thought something could be hard, soft, delicate, rough, fantasy and sci-fi rolled into one. Epic

You totally had me at the look of the jacket form the front, but I have to admit I was skeptical about the floaty wings and the lights. But from the first photo of it all lit up onwards, I was reading with my mouth hanging open. Absolutely stunning. I want one for my motorcycle-riding sister!

I agree with Enid, I think that the organza would look even more fantastic if it was fitted to the leather. That being said, this is one of the most stunning yet practical designs I’ve ever seen. You constantly amaze me with your creative vision.

Thank you for explaining to us every part of the process, really it is inspirational!! (even if we do not all have the same sensitivity to design, really it inspires me, as I am amazed by the possibilities of technology!)

It’s quite a feat of design and an interesting jacket—almost like a bioluminescent deep-sea creature, and ordinarily, nothing is quite effective as mixing monochrome textures, but there’s something weird, perverse even, about the mixing of supple, structured leather and translucent, wispy organza. Perhaps, as other commenters have noted, the jacket would benefit from a fitted back.

I am spechless! The jacket is everything designer ever wanted. I’m amazed how electronics was incorporated in a clothing, it’s another step is fashion industry. I never expected that such light organza could be that strong to hold a electronic wires and that a jacket can ce that sleek looking with batteries inside. The whole desing is very impressive, sleek, clean, minimalistic yet edge cutting! You deserve a standing ovation for the jacket, I wish more designers would consider such idea into their fashion.

Stupid question perhaps, but if you are riding a motocycle in the dark while illuminated, doesn’t that make it very difficult to see your surroundings? Flashlights, headlamps, and car lights work because the light is projected away from the body and in front of you. If one illuminates their sides or rear, their eyes adjust to that ambient light, and can no longer see well into the darkness in front of them. Or, have you two accounted for that phenomena somehow?

Apart from the fact that there might be some drag due to the extended bit/cape in the back, I have to say that this is a pretty impressive prototype! Honestly, I’d never wear it; I’d house it as art in my home. But nonetheless – this is impressive!!!

PS – the packaging idea was pretty neat – I like the fold-out box effect…

Totally sweet. I imagine it would be so fun to ride with this on because the back would essentially turn into a giant superhero cape…thank you for taking us through the step-by-step process; it’s my absolute favorite type of post from you. I have to concur though, I would only actually wear it if the back looked normal.

It’s definitely unconventional, and it takes guts to wear it out (I think). But more than the final product, I’m happy you shared the process with us. The process is indeed the most important thing. Stay true to your vision and keep it up!

This jacket is really interesting! I focused my studies on the wearable technology during my last period at University, because also my thesis project was about a new concept of fabric.
Your project blends perfectly usability and beauty, that many of other projects about wearable technology unfortunatly don’t have. I know well Luminex because I went to the factory to see the product, is near my house in Italy (Prato).
If you are interested in this field, take a look at V2 Lab in Rotterdam; is an institute that helps the artists and the designers to develop their projects. Look at the Intamacy project of Daan Roosegaarde and the Pseudomorphs of Anouk Wipprecht.

Love the collaboration. The mix of fashion & technology is always intruging to read about. I really like the unexpected use of the invisible zipper on the leather jacket and the shoulder padding detail. Although I must say, I might be alittle scared out of my wits if I saw a floating cape ‘glowing’ in the dark at night..haha..

The packaging design is absolutely fantastic and the Luminex photographs beautifully but allow me to offer some constructive criticism on the real-life functionality this jacket is sorely lacking in (and I know what I’m talking about, because I’ve spent half my life in fashion and I’ve grown up around bikers).

I can’t see ANY biker wearing this for a few reasons:
-If you lose control of your bike you need a full range of motion to get it stabilized and I just see that cape-like flap in the back as a total safety hazard. If you crashed your bike, I could see the Luminex going through the handlebars and the little wires in it getting tangled.

-The tailoring is off; the jacket is far too tight in the bust area which would be an issue with restriction of movement.

-The leather is nowhere near thick enough to provide any actual protection against road rash in a fall. Also, it gets really cold on a bike the faster you go because of the wind. If you were riding even in Spring or Fall at night, you’d be absolutely freezing going over 40 mph.

Let me provide you with some additional information on motorcycle hazards, because you seemed to have focused on sport bikes:

There’s a saying in the motorcycle world – loud pipes save lives. That’s an age-old saying that comes from the people with REAL motorcycles (the steel kind, call them choppers, cruisers…), not those little sport bikes. Sport bikes (like that Ducati) are QUIET compared to a Harley or a Husqvarna. You can hear cruisers coming from a mile away.

Sport bikes are dangerous because they are fast and light which is a hazardous combination because you have less control on a sport bike than you would on a heavier, sturdier steel-constructed bike like a cruiser.

All bikes are dangerous (even bicycles); mainly because (as you mentioned) the lack of body protection but also the general physics involved that lead to injuries if one gets thrown from their bike going at any speed over 15mph and the fact that you can’t hear them. However, people in cars seem to forget that just because a motorcycle doesn’t take up the whole width of the lane like a car would, doesn’t mean that you can just go around the motorcycle – that is actually how most accidents happen. Drivers need to be more aware of the two-wheeled vehicles they’re supposed to share the road with and bikers need to be hyper-vigilant about their own personal safety as well as be aware of the ignorance of people in cars.

The people who ride sport bikes that come out of nowhere are careless. That, and as previously mentioned, those things are light, fast, and quiet… which makes them stealthy. I don’t think having lights on a jacket will solve that issue. If anything, I think if someone on a sport bike came out of nowhere and a driver then saw a dimly-lit ethereal glow he/or she would get distracted and cause an accident.

In conclusion, I don’t feel like this would resolve any safety issues bikers face; if this really was a tangible solution to road accidents, it would have been thought of already and popularized by the millions of people that live to ride and probably be a safety requirement from the DMV.

The reason I’ve avoided speaking about anyone on a cruiser wearing this jacket- because that’s a different bike scene and you’d be the laughing stock if you rolled up to your MC, went out on a run, or even showed up to a charity ride in that getup. Those kind of bikers are not a flamboyant crowd, unlike the kind that ride sport bikes.

It’s an admirable attempt and I can appreciate the time and work involved in making it and incorporating Luminex into a jacket but this is not something that has any practical use to real bikers, and in fact would be more of a danger from the actual design. However, I think you should contact Nicola Formichetti; I’m sure Lady Gaga would love to get her hands on this.

You miss the entire point of this post. This isn’t about creating something that already exists, this is a prototype which means that there is still room for editing the design. I agree that maybe the wings could be minimized a bit but I think the jacket would lose it’s design power.

Who the fuck cares if she would be the laughing stock if she cruised up? They’ve created something that hasn’t existed before, and even if it isn’t 100% perfected yet this entire post BLOWS my mind away. If I saw someone riding this at night I would not stop staring, not because I’m laughing but because I’ve never seen ANYTHING like it before. I don’t really find your criticism all that constructive because it just sounds kind of snide. Sorry!

I don’t understand how honestly informing someone about the real-life practicality of this would be considered snide.

If you’ve ever had to visit your boyfriend in the hospital that broke 3 ribs, had road rash on 15% of his body, and a collapsed lung from having to swerve, losing control, and getting his bike caught under an SUV you would understand why I posted on the safety-related design flaws and problems that bikers face.

And, if you’ve ever been around a crowd of stereotypical “bikers”, you’d know that they’re a really no-frills crowd and someone would get a lot of flack from that sometimes very rough group. Not all bikers are like that, but I’ve seen the HA forcefully make people take off their jackets and get the crap kicked out of them for looking too “fancy”. That’s something you deal with when you ride is sometimes you will run into the 1%ers (especially in cities) and they’re not always happy to see other bikers.

When designing, you have to think of who your target market is. Luxirare’s piece is avant-garde bordering on couture and is something that should be on display in an art gallery at an exhibition on clothing and technology and should worn in an environment more suitable to couture.

I’d also be concerned on just how bloody dirty I’d get such a pretty leather jacket. Have you ever been on the road on a bike for a few hours and washed your face afterwards? It’s disgusting! I would not want all the dust and pollution roads are saturated with marring that jacket. I doubt Luminex is washable… would you really want organza covered in brown and grey smears from all the dirt from the road? Think about how dirty cars get on the road, our clothes don’t get dirty from riding in cars since we’re “inside”, but if you’re on a motorcycle your clothes are going to get as dirty as the outside of your car would.

I’m sorry for sounding harsh. I do truly think it’s a gorgeous article of clothing, but it doesn’t work for bikers for the same reasons McQueen’s armadillo boots don’t belong on people when they’re hiking in the mountains and Elie Saab evening gowns aren’t worn to Slayer concerts.

You are visiting this post often and you replied back so soon. You are obsessed with her jacket. If you’re not stop checking back to to this post.

If you are checking this page twice in half an hour, Luxirare has done her job. She has made you look at her work again and again, it’s what great art is supposed to do. As for the functionality of the jacket, you haven’t even tried it as I doubt Luxirare sent you one. I am sure that deep deep inside, you are dying to have it. Your comment is very transparent and telling of your real desires.

shut up. You are visiting this post often and you replied back so soon. You are obsessed with her jacket. If you’re not stop checking back to to this post.

If you are checking this page twice in half an hour, Luxirare has done her job. She has made you look at her work again and again, it’s what great art is supposed to do. As for the functionality of the jacket, you haven’t even tried it as I doubt Luxirare sent you one. I am sure that deep deep inside, you are dying to have it. Your comment is very transparent and telling of your real desires.

J – Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m not sure if Luxirare intends to make this as a proper biker jacket. I do understand where your concern is coming from though, as someone who’s had a biker boyfriend and owns a gazillion biker jackets myself.

Anti-Js – I don’t think you get J’s points. He/she has expressed admiration for the garment. Why the defensive attitude?

Luxirare/Anastasia: Guys, I am extremely awed by this creation. My sentiments echo the praises that have been piled by the others. However, I’m not so sure of the cut of the body itself. It seems rather loose and crumples into an awkward heap when you sit. Perhaps it could be cut shorter? or made to be really tight like Rick Owen’s A/W 11 jackets? Just my two cents’ worth as someone who might like to buy your creation.

so, are you not going to update or post on this blog anymore? is the microblog where you update now? i miss the content and explanations from this blog (don’t really appreciate single pictures posts with little description) and was just wondering if i should keep checking luxirare.com for updates or not.

This is by far the most impressive work i have seen you post. Extraordinary use of material. I guess i keep coming to this blog because you keep reminding me that creativity can be pushed into any extremes, and the capability of a Lady and some mean ass sewing machines.