Best dishes countdown #32: Pizza rolls at Red Wagon Pizza

Bearing no resemblance to those processed chunks that get poured out of a frozen bag, Red Wagon pizza rolls give regular old pizza a run for its money. Think of a pie that's been turned in on itself before being wood-fired, sliced, then flash cooked in a deep fryer.

The people of Red Wagon came into the pizza business honestly. It's been a family affair since World War II; the Campbells have been trying to recreate authentic Italian-style pizza since grandpa Wilbur came back from a tour of duty in Europe.

And so ever since he was two years old, chef/owner Pete Campbell has been playing around with dough. When a toddler gets his hands on a hunk of pizza dough, it rarely results in a perfectly round pie, as you might imagine. The fix: pizza rolls.

Now that he's all grown up, the chef shares them with you in his restaurant. Served with a pot of marinara, this is one of those happy accidents you always hear about. More proof that beauty lies in the aberrations.