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Maybe it's the swirling hems of pleated kilts and the...

January 22, 1999|By Margaret Sheridan and Judy Hevrdejs.

Maybe it's the swirling hems of pleated kilts and the mournful sound of bagpipes. Or the thick, creamy knee socks on legs better suited for rugby than dancing. But poet Robert Burns' birthday celebrations coax a soft spot in us for all things Scottish.

The birthday, on Monday, is celebrated locally by private clubs and Scottish societies. But pub owner John Crombie, a native of Scotland, goes the extra mile for clansmen and pseudo-Scots. His party at Earl of Loch Ness (2350 N. Clark St.) includes pipers in tartans and the ceremonial reading of Burns' "Ode to the Haggis" to honor the poet, born in 1759.

Focal point is haggis (at left), a crumbly meatloaf mixture enriched with minced organs, suet and oatmeal and baked for hours in a pouch (either a sheep's stomach or sausage casing). After the poem is recited, a decorative knife is plunged into the haggis and dinner commences.

Must-haves include Scotland's cock-a-leekie soup redolent of chicken and leeks, and sides of mashed turnip and potato. Countless toasts compete with wee drams (of scotch) and the evening slips into reverie with merriment induced by pints of oatmeal stout, lager and ales.

Crombie offers a package deal (five-course meal with haggis plus wine and wee dram, and music) for $30 per person. Reservations for the 6:30-7 p.m. seating are a must.

At other times of the year, Crombie offers haggis on occasion as a special ($6.50). Call ahead.