142008-518ProductHigh-Density Fishtail Parka

historyFishtail parka M-1951

The ‘fishtail’ parka was developed in the late 1940s as an ensemble
of separate and detachable parts to provide flexible protection
against extreme, changing weather conditions. The most common version
of the 1951 parka consisted of a light, water-repellent shell layer
made of a cotton-and-nylon blend, a button-in mohair liner and a
fur-lined hood.

The outer shell could be worn without the liner in milder
temperatures. It featured a thin, permanently attached hood, two
diagonal pockets and a covered zip.

The parka was designed oversized to fit on top of a full uniform,
and was made to withstand temperatures below -10°C. The fishtail shape
is due to the split in the back, where drawstrings on the bottom hems
were intended to be tied around the legs for added insulation.

w.34-WED-2017Feature articles | Layout | Fishtail parka M-1951

functionWind-proof

Cold is the absence of heat. When something is chilled, it means that
its heat disappears. Heat loss happens when warm air from one surface
circulates into the cooler areas surrounding it, a movement known as
convection. As the heat is released, an insulating layer of warm air
forms at the surface. Rapidly moving air (wind) disrupts the boundary
and allows for cool air to replace the warm. The ‘wind-chill factor’ is
the feeling of decreased temperature as a result of this flow of air.
The purpose of a wind-proof garment is to help insulation by stopping
moving air from breaking the body’s own heat layer, and thus preventing
the warm air from disappearing. Wind-proofing is achieved either by a
densely-woven fabric structure or, as in water-resistant outerwear, by
sealing the inside of the fabric with an impenetrable membrane.

w.34-WED-2017Filter | Layout | Wind-proof

functionWater repellent

Water-repellency is always added to fabrics that need to be water-proof
or water-resistant. It is achieved by treating the textile with a finish
that forces moisture to form small pearls of water on top of the fabric
surface instead of being absorbed by the fibres. The purpose is to
protect the material from getting wet-through and thereby prevent loss
of body heat, as well as to allow for breathability.

All ARKET water-repellent products are treated with finishes free of
perfluorinated compounds, PFCs, a group of chemicals that have shown to
be harmful for the environment and for aquatic organisms.

Note: Detergents and water-repelling agents are each other’s opposites.
While the purpose of the water-repellent finish is to push water away
from the fabric, detergents reduce the water’s surface tension to allow
the fabric to absorb as much water as possible. It is thus important to
get rid of all detergent residues from the garment to retain the full
potential of the finish – wash at full rinse cycle, use only a small
amount of mild detergent (or a specialty detergent) and avoid softeners.
After wash, the water-repellent finish can be re-activated through heat,
by tumble drying or ironing. Please follow the specific care instruction
for each garment.

w.34-WED-2017Filter | Layout | Water repellent

SupplierMarconi

Marconi
is a Chinese garment manufacturer, specialising in high-quality pieces
for men and women. Based in Suzhou and Jiangsu, outside of Shanghai, the
prosperous area – and the company – has long attracted employees with
the technical skills to do laser cutting, embroidery, pleating and more.
With just over 500 staff, Marconi takes complex design concepts and
turns them into reality.