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Mostly just a photo outing. I tried a little climbing and I wasn't as impressed as I wanted to be. The front tires would climb just about anything, but the rear tires wouldn't bite and pull it up so it got stuck.

This is what you do when you get an inch of ice on the ground and the city comes to a standstill. Telly doesn't seem to have a problem with the ice. I need to get a decent fluid dampened mount for the Gopro. It moves around way too much.

what gear reduction box are you using in this beast? im working on a telli crawler and new to this stuff so far made some good cheep mods but want to gear down solid spools and gear reduction for diffs once i get those to work then updating the servo and motor keeping it brushed

Well, I finally got the Rubicon body mounted. I think I will need to trim more of the wheel wells, but I like the fit. I had to extend the front bumper out about an inch more than the Telluride body. I'm going to dye the chassis black and add some rock sliders to the side. I will probably put another roof rack on this one with lights and I want to add some powerful 5w headlamps on a relay. I like the Summit rear bumper, but I'm thinking about the wide Proline crawler bumper for the front. Maybe a winch? Overall, I think it looks pretty awesome.

Mostly just a photo outing. I tried a little climbing and I wasn't as impressed as I wanted to be. The front tires would climb just about anything, but the rear tires wouldn't bite and pull it up so it got stuck.

These were more work because evidently the rear suspension compresses the drive shafts more than the front. I cut off the same amount as last time, but the suspension would not travel all the way up. I had to take the half shafts out and cut off another millimeter. For this reason I cannot really recommend the rear conversion. I had to remove more of the spline drive than I felt comfortable. There is still enough to catch and drive the half shafts, but I think they may fail if given enough time. Before I put them all back together, I cleaned and repacked all the joints with Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

I also added the rear shock guards as well as a fan to keep the ESC cool. The fan actually does a very good job of keeping the ESC cooler. It won't save me from cooking the ESC if I give it full throttle with the motor locked up, but it will keep my normal running temps down noticeably.

I also have all metal drive line steel axles aluminum shaft steel clutch plate with aluminum pads xo-1 diffs were gonna be next

It was pretty awesome, although I only had a few minutes to play with it in the mountains. I wish I had been able to play longer. Everything performed perfectly. Unfortunately I let my girlfriend drive my Teton and she managed to break both my driveshafts in under 5 minutes. I was going to shoot a video of the Teton following the Telluride like a little puppy, but it was not to be.

In addition to the stock LEDs, I am using two Cree X5 LEDS for the headlights. I had no trouble at all driving it at night. In fact, they are pretty blinding.

So my SLW hubs finally arrived and I went to work. While you can use just a flat hex, it's not the most stable mounting point for bulky wheels. I wanted a more secure connection. As you can see, the hub has a ring indentation and a wide opening for the axle. With just a bare hex, it has the potential to wobble.

A better mounting point would be a crawling hex like those used on some other vehicles. Unfortunately, even though these hexes are 5mm just like the Telluride axle, they have a step in them that is smaller. They catch on the step in the Telluride axle and won't reach the pin. DOH!

The solution was to find a 5mm drill bit and bore out the crawler hex to fit over the Telluride axle. This is no easy task. Just try finding a 5mm drill bit at your local store. I finally got the bit in and went to work. Voila! The hexes fit perfectly now and take up all the slop on the SLW hubs. If you ever plan to use SLW hubs, you will definitely want this mod. Unfortunately I didn't need nearly the offset that I thought I did. The wheels almost clear the caster blocks as they are. Back go the 600 hubs and now I'm waiting for the 350s.

Hi,

i have 2.2" g-made airsystem that i want to fit.
In the front i have a serious problem.
But with these 350 hubs the problem would be solved?
No other adjustments or partsswap needed?