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The most important and relevant questions and helpful information pertaining to the maintenance, restoration, or modification of the beloved E30 BMW 3 Series gets posted here.

Please chime in.

Thanks Jon I've noticed we have added a few new members and we seem to be answering ALOT of the same questions over and over again so I asked Jon to give us a sticky for our MOST commonly asked questions (Timing belt DIY,SI batteries). This is long overdue and hopefully will help tone down the amount of threads being posted that are cluttering our board. In the next few days I will be digging up some of the DIY's I have written and posting links here. If you know of a DIY or tip feel free to post them here.

Timing belts are found on all variations of the M20 engine. It is Very important to change these around every 50k miles or 2 years. It is also recomended that the waterpump be changed at the same time for 2 reasons.#1.) The life of one is about the same as the service interval for the belt(oddly enough). #2.) It's alot easier to do it when you're already changing the belt and have the covers removed.
Here is a link to a DIY with tons of pictures and good advice on changing a T\belt on an M20. http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/Mainte.../M20Timing.asp

These are prices and part numbers from a complete rebuild I did to my one of my previous e30 318is. I'm pretty sure we replaced/upgraded all the bushings and almost all of the supension. This was almost two years ago, so prices may have changed.

I think that about does it. Quick notes: this set up appears to have given me about 2.5 degrees of negative camber. Use stock motor and tranny mounts unless you're willing to accept some vibration. And find someone who has a lift.....

Im going to try to address a question we get about once a week. Vibration under the Console. Theres one of many cluprits but this is the most common. The Guibo or Flex Disk can lose parts of the rubber between The bolt holes. Im restoring a Cabrio and when i first crawled under the car i noticed that mine needed to be replaced. Heres some pictures that will maybe help. It also smooths out the power transmission to the wheels. Its pretty straight foward. You need a 17mm wrench and socket. Please watch your knuckles. There is alot of unforgiving sheetmetal under these cars.The Lack of rubber explains why you get an unbalanced vibration.

Delphini asked about a 5 speed swap. Ive done countless hours of research on this swap over the past few months . I just always had my little 318 with the 5spd. But my 325is wasnt. Now that i have my cabrio theres no choice im going 5 speed. So heres a list of what you will need.

If you have owned your car long enough you will know what all of this is. If you have no idea how to even start. I recommend owning your car a little longer and researching This list will help you get up a price list if nothing else. I located a local junkyard over the phone and got this list. My recommendation is to find a complete 5 speed e30 in a junkyard and remove all of the components. Make sure it doesnt have like 240K
The automatic transmission has a switch on the shifter. If its not in Park it wont start. So you have to remove that switch and hardwire it. I have heard rumor of the cruise control acting up when a swap is done. I guess ill have to find out and let you guys know

You probably have an AIR BUBBLE in the system.
I have my patented method to remedy this:
Make sure that the coolant level is topped up just a bit overfilled.
Get a set of 6 to 8 inch ramps. Drive up onto them. With a cool engine, start the engine in neutral. Make sure the hood is open. Crack the air-bleeder screw and let the engine come up to temp. You will all of a sudden see coolant and air start to bubble out once the thermostat opens. Let it keep bubbling until you see no more air bubbles mixed in with the coolant. Now close air-bleeder screw tightly.
This nose- in- the- air attitude make the air bubble slide up and out the front of the head and engine allowing the coolant to completely maintain contact with the hot metal instead of air.
Thats a good thing.
If you do this proceedure on a flat surface..... you'll keep your air bubbles trapped.
Not a good thing.

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325ic a beer

"Swimming with the sharks" All over this World...I'll see you in the next one.,,yeahhhh.... AND DON"T BE LATE,,,, DON"T BE LAAATTEE! ...(Jimi Hendrix)

What indication did you guys experience that prompted you to check for leak. Better yet: if the valve cover seal is leaking what indication one can experience. Here's my situation. I replace the TPS and clean the ICV. the engine light still comes on off and on and a steady light. The idles when I come to stop light or sign then it will flactuate. I can tell the ICV is working and is clean because when you first start the car the rpm will be high for a second or two then it drops to proper rpm. Also, when the car is idling and flactuates then pull the tube from the valve cover. the front tube idle will be smooth but high. Can someone tell me what that indicates aside from idling high.

i found mine by mistake, sort of. i had a leaking valve cover gasket, and when i pulled the cover there was a small gap to where the crankcase pressure was released. and after i replaced that, it ran decent until the head gasket went. after i replaced that i have the same syptoms. but as SWISS stated "the oil drain back tube" might be leaking on mine. i kinda found the o-ring on the ground after i put everything back on. and i didnt want to takle that one for a bit.

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I know a lot about cars. I can look at a car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming

Another spot is the oil cap. Pretty much you need to rev your engine and listen for the hiss. My indication that I had a leak came in the form of poor idle and the infamous 1222 CEL code. Idle I discovered was part vacuum leak but more Bosch plat +4 plugs, M20's don't like them. the other was a O ring I forgot on the oil drain back tube when I did the head. And boy is that fun to do without removing the intake....

The last time the valve cover was off the engine was when I painted it but that was a year ago. It was idling normal my idle problem did not start until just recently. I plan on taking the intake off in the near future to combat those vacuum line. I am going to replace them with steal line with as little rubber tube coupling them together to eliminate the worry of any vacuum leak coming from there and of course the hassel of removing the intake just to get the line.

well here is one i found today...got me a can of carb cleaner and sprayed around like everyone else has done before...i was getting the same symtoms idle fluctuates when in neutral...like i said started spraying around the engine looking for that vacuum leak and just could not find anything at all the vacuum lines that i could see....then just for the sake of it...i sprayed at the bottom of the fuel injectors and lo and behold i had a reaction...found out that the o rings on my fuel injectors were deterioted and was leaking there...changed the o rings and finally got to adjust and time the engine so that it did on rev up and down...hope this help some one out too...