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Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into
Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From
Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few
kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are
excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate)
the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one
of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors
make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off
(right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into
Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then
turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed
Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past
the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8
kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone
through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal
car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the
Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the
Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap
(but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the
climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the
time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378
3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its
only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

APPROACH
As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left
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and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent).
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Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.