3048 metres. On the top of this peak, local villagers come here
to offer their PUJA (prayer) to Nag Devta (Snake God) for the
protection of their castles. The trek starts from Dhanaulti on a
forest track up-to Morina Dhar. This place is situated on a
saddle and the sunrise from. this spot is a beautiful
sight to watch, the sun peeping from behind the mountains. From
Morina Dhar the trek is on a ridge, most of the time parallel to
the Garhwal Himalayan ranges from Swaragrohini to Nandadevi
ranges. This part of trek is very rich in flora and fauna. Only a
few villages come enroute and even those are abandoned during
winter months. From Nagtibba to Nainbagh is a downhill trek to
the picturesque village of Panwari, gay with life and presenting
the culture of Jaunpur. (For further details see page
no. 16. [PMc's Note: Actually HERE])

Places

Altitude
in meters

Altitudein feet

Distancein km

Distancein miles

Mussoorie

2004

6575

--

--

Dhanaulti

2250

7382

22

14

by motor

Morina Dhar

2350

7710

18

11

trek

Ghodiappa

2800

9186

16

10

trek

Nagtibba

3048

10000

15

9

trek

Panwar

1524

5000

8

5

trek

Nainbagh

1115

3658

11

7

trek

++Page 8

MUSSOORIEQueen of the Hill Stations

Rising as a horse shoe shaped foot-hill that overlooks on the
one side, the great plains sweltering in their pestilential heat
with the Holy Ganga, oiling its way through slowly, sluggishly
across them, on the other, the vibrant magnetic, silhouette
of the Himalaya, is Mussoorie where the mountains go gay
and the nobility mingles with the elite, when they sojourn
there for the summer, as they did in the past and as they
shall continue to do so in the future.

Post independence Mussoorie, unlike some other resorts
still maintains the old world charm and way of life, the gay
camaraderie of kindered souls mixing in a mental freemasonry,
the maharaja, sportman or businessman, making the town
gay, friendly, and cosmopolitan. Such was the town in its
glittering past and such it still remains.

In 1827, Captain Young, accompanied by a hunting party,
stayed into the mountainous regions of the Doon Valley,
he spotted the area now known as Landour, 274.5 metres
(9(10 ft) higher than Mussoorie, which was first developed
as a military station but gradually became an integral part
of the hill resort. In India, they say, the British discovered
their hill stations for them; it was not a ritual but had
become a second nature for them to escape from the
pestilential heat that surrounded the sweltering victims,
and spend a mere week-end or weeks of leave and
leisure away from the perspiration ridden turmoil of the
plains. They invaded the sanctuaries of snow and
silence - the haunts of hermits and hill-men, bringing
to the solemn solitudes a spirit of cultured ease and
gaiety mixed with a dash of Anglo Saxon frivolity.

Captain Young, responsible for founding Mussoorie,
fell in love with the spot he had strayed into, besides
the scenic stance and splendour, the weather was
bracing, the climate salubrious - the situation of the
locality offered
[++Page 9]
immense possibilities. Military efficiency combined
with an analytical mind produced immediate results
in implementing the idea that had formed in his head.
The very same year, 1827 saw the first building that
came up in the area to be used for the summer sojourn.
In splendid condition,it is now the premises of Mullingar
Hotel. Almost instantly the stream of visitors began to
pour in, buildings appeared in sporadic outbursts all
over the hill - the architecture, Elezabethan English.
All most overnight a bit of Europe had been transplanted
in indict - another hill-station had been born, Among
the first of the elite to join the caravan were the Indian
Maharajas who contributed immense palaces on the
hills, built to look like the country seats of British
aristocracy.

In the early founding days, the only access was 11
km trek from Rajpur either on horse back or
on a 'dandi' carried by porters. The rigours of the
journey were quickly forgotten on reaching the
idyllic spot. However, in 1920, the first car arrived
from Dehra Dun, the connecting motor road had
been completed almost as soon as the motor car made
the scene in India. Coiling like a snake the road rises
from 640 metres (2,100 ft) to an altitude of 2,005 metres
(6,600 ft) within an hour and a half.

Gay, friendly and cosmopolitan, Mussoorie, with its
spirit of mental free-masonry welds in a 'hail fellow' well
met camaraderie' the Maharaja and the magnate, the
prince and pauper or any kindred soul. The spirit of
gaiety pervades everywhere in the twenty-five
square miles area, making the town a good mixer. The infectious,
holiday spirit has resulted in establishments
that cater to the every whim of pleasure seeking society,
be it dancing, riding, theatre and cinema going, skating
and sporting events, etc. For the nature lover seeking
sylvan bliss there are easy to reach beauty spots.

Mussoorie caters, also to the sporting set, the Polo
grounds holds annual tournaments, the rink stages a
boxing tourney while at the Savoy there is a dog Show
every September. In summer, the Happy Valley Club,
with 13 courts, holds tennis matches. The best Ball Rooms
are at the Savoy and Hackman's hotels. Billiards rooms are
in the rink, Happy Valley Club and Picture Palace while two
[++Page 10]
Skating rinks, in Kufri and Library Bazar cater to the skating
set. The season lasts from March, 15 to October 31st. A beauty
contest elects 'The Queen' who reigns Mussoorie all through the
season.

Surrounded by hills, and overlooking the Doon Valley, the gay
summer resort is mantled in snow for winter bursts inviting all
year round. The Delhi Road to Mussoorie runs between golden
sugar cane and wheat fields interepersed with deep lichee and
mango groves, giving way to the densely forested Siwalik Hills
leading to the rail-road junction of Dehra Dun in Doon Valley.
Winding past Rajpur, dotted with monastic ashrams, the road
imbs along the terraced fields of Bhatta into the mountains
with red roofed houses clinging to the wooded kills, in the
distance in the tinkle of Himalayan cow bells.

The hill-folk of Mussoorie are simple and hardy, living in
tiny villages scattered over the surrounding hills. Cheery
and honest, their main occupation is agriculture. There houses
are built of cut rocks roofed with heavy beams strong to
stand the winter snows. The journey from Dehra Dun
terminates at Kincraig, the roadways station atop a rock
jutting out of the two hills of Mussoorie. On hand are coolies,
dandies and rickshaws. Soon almost overnight Mussoorie
becomes one of the most popular hill stations in Northern
India famous for its inherent scenic beauty and gay
social life.

The heart of Mussoorie

Stretching from the Landour Clock Tower to Library,the
bazar leads to the Post Office, Himalaya Club, Picture
Palace and the Jubilee cinemas. The fashionable avenue,
the Mall, runs through the Kulri Bazar terminating at the
Library.

Happy Valley - Tibetan Township

Meandering Charlville road leads to pine-scented Happy
Valley and the Tibetan Township, and enchanted world
where prayer flag flutter in the breeze against a chortan
(Tibetan stupa ) and a temple cringe to a precarious perch
on a cliff while inside priests turn the bronze prayer
wheel amids scripture-reciting acolytes. Inside
a saffron draped room reposes a large tome, turned
to the page last read by
[++Page 11]
the Dalai Lama on his visit. Shops are filled with exotic
Tibetan ware, the unpretentious restaurants serve
the inimitable Chang (rice and barley Beer) along
with steamed dumplings called Mo Mo and noodles
mixed with fried carrot, cabbage or mutton liberally
seasoned mixed with vinegar and 'soy saucea'. In the long
Himalayan twilight monks blow the long trumpets just
before prayer - way down below twinkle the lights of Dehra
Dun.

Gun Hill - Erstwhile time-keeper of a town

In the earlier days, gun used to be fired from this hill at
precisely 12 O' clock noon to denote the time. Though
the practice was discontinued and the gun removed, the
ghost of the name clings to the hill. The hill is 2,143 metres
(7,029 ft) above sea level and 400 metres away from the town.
Two ropeway trolley buses ply from the Jhulaghar on the
Mall to Gun Hill, covering the distance (1,312 ft or 400 metres)
in four and half minutes. Swinging high above the hills in the
aerial ropeway one gets a wide angle view of the snow
Himalayan mountain peaks and down below the winding
serpentine valley. Easily accessible, an uphill road start on
the fashionable Mall,opposite the chic restaurant, Hackman's
one of the oldest established rendezvous of the elite. On top
of Gun Hill,now, are water reservoir that feed the town. On a
clear day a magnificent view of Kedarnath, Badrinath,
Nanda Devi and Bandar Poonch present itself to viewer
atop this hill 609 metres (2,000 ft) tall. Atop too, is a picture
of a glamourous queen, symbolising Mussoorie, that replaced
the gun, when beauty scored a victory over brawn. There
is a cafeteria for the thirsty visitors.

Municipal Gardens and Park

Near the library on the Mall, when one tries of brooks is a
footpath leading to the blooming Municipal Gardens four
kilometres away a glow with gay flowers, velvety lawns,
deodar and pine trees, set of by an artificial lake. Besides
a children's park there is a cafeteria to cater to the needs of
thirsty visitors. The park, a plateau, slightly over three
kilometres
away from the gardens is noted for its excellent simultaneous
view
of both the Himalayas and the Doon Valley.

[++Page 12]

Camel's Back Road

An ideal place for horse riding, the road starts from Kulri
behind the Skating Hall ending at the Library Bazar. On the
Mall 2.4 kilometres in length on this road, a foot path goes
to Bhilaru pumping station, an interesting place to visit.The
Hawa Ghar is one of the several resting places on this road,
curving round a mountain looking like the back of a camel. The
European style shops are situated on the MallKuiri and Library
Bazar alongwith the elegant hotels, where even now, the call
after midnight is "On with the dance". The Indian
Bazar is in the area of the Landour.

Landour Bazar

Starting from, Mullingar, the first hotel and building upto
Landour Clock Tower, the bazar is about a mile (1.6 kilometres)
long in Mussoorie. Near the Clock Tower there is the Gurdwara.
Exclusively an Indian bazar, from the Mullinagar Hotel the
road goes up towards Landour Depot the other end lead
down to Jabarkhet and Tehri. This is exclusively the Indian
marketing centre; the rents of the houses are cheaper.

Dapot Hill and Lal Tibba

The first site to present itself to the gladdened heart of Capt.
Young was Landour, and was the first place of sojourn for the
heat embattled troops stationed in the Doon Valley. As time
went on and the hill-station grew fast into a ritizy resort at a
lower level, the invigorating air of Landour resulted in the
construction of a depot for invalid and convalesent soldiers.
The highest point in Mussoorie and five kilometres away from
the town, Lal Tibba, the peak of Landour, or Depot Hill is
at an altitude of 2,438.4 metres (8,000 ft). Here, with the
aid of an electric, coin operated binocular, one can get
a bird's eye view of the Gangotri, Kedarnath, Chaukhamba,
Nanda Devi and Sri-Kanta peaks. Gangotri, the authentic
source of the Ganga, is within trekking distance, the scenery,
at every point, is magnificent as canyons, cascades and rushing
rivulets leap to the eye at every turn. Ten thousand feet
(3,043 metres) up in the sky, Gangotri rears its famous temple
on the right bank of the river, dedicated to the Goddess Ganga.
On the other side are asectics, dwelling in small huts, their
life,
[++Page 13]
an escape from the turmoil of the world, devoted
to unravelling its mysteries.

Mossy Falls

Six kilometres [3.73 miles] from town, reached by road
crossing a private estate, are the Mossy Falls, one of the
most picturesque picnic spots near the city.

Benong Hill and Observatory

10 kilometres away from the library by motorable road or pony
bridle path, is Benong Hill, one time home of an observatory.
It is still an excellent look-out place, commanding as it does
a good view of the Himalayas above and the Yamuna 5,000 ft
down below.

Bhatta Falls

Situated on the Mussoorie - Dehradun road near the Bhatta
Checking post, two kilometres away are the Bhatta Falls,
where two huge water tanks store water for supply to the
Galogi Power Station. Excellent for picnics, the falls are
twelve kilometres from Mussoorie [6.4 km] by bridle path]
the first ten kilometres are by motorable road to the check
post, the two are either by foot or on the back of a pony. The
Falls are small in comparison to the Kempty Falls.

Kempty Falls - prettiest spot in Mussoorie

Fifteen kilometres away on the Mussoorie - Chakrata road
is the most beautiful spot in the Mussoorie, attracting
scores of people every day. Gushing out of the mountains
the majestic waterfall splits into five distinct falls one on top
of the other, the highest one over forty feet [12.19 metres].
During the summer the water falls only on Wednesday,
Saturday, and Sunday on the other days of the week it
is diverted and used for irrigation. The Falls are accessible
by ponies and rickshaws. There is charming restaurant and
a Forest Rest House about 15 kilometres away. [reservations
are obtained from the D.F.O., Yamuna Division, Mussoorie]

Hardy Falls

Situated to the north-west of Vincent Hill are the
hard to reach Hardy Falls.

[++Page 14]

Tehri

Mussoorie is connected by motorable road with
Tehri, about 80 kilometres away.
A picturesque spot high up in the neighbouring
hills Tehri leads to a number of trekking routes. On the
Mussoorie - Tehri road itself there are a number of attractive
picnic spots, among them are:-

Dhanaulti

Twenty-four kilometres on the Mussoorie - Tehri road with
glossy glens as picnic spots, it also commands a good view
of the Himalayas.

Surkanda Devi Temple

Reaching for the gods at 3,048 metres [10,000 feet] the temple
Surkanda is the highest point around Mussoorie. Besides
peace of mind, it offers a glorious view. To get to this temple
one drives 45 km (1.25 hrs) from Mussoorie and then walks up
3 km to the hill top which offers a spectacular view of 200 miles
of the snow capped Himalayas. The temple itself is the
mythological site where the head of Shiva's consort fell
when it was cut off to stop his tantric cosmic dance
which was rocking the universe

Yamuna Bridge

For the complete angler, trout fishing is a must at the
Yamuna Bridge - 28 kilometres from Mussoorie.

Sir George Everest's House

7 km - 20 minutes drive from the Library, Mussoorie Known
as Park Estate, this is the site of the Residence Office
and meteorological buildings of the first Surveyor General
of India, Sir George Evereat after whom the highest mountain
in the world is named. It is also an excellent example of East
India Co. architecture with a "Bibi Khana" out
houses for the Indian consorts of Englishmen. The earliest
land revenue records, dating back to 1839 show Col. Everest
as the owner of this property. The property commands a good
view of the Doon Valley and the Himalayas. Unfortunately, it
is now in ruins.

174 km via the same route as Gangotri up to Dharasoo,
and then Dandalgaon-Gangnani-Hanuman Chatti.

Nagtibba Trek

1st day: After an early breakfast, drive 71 km via Kempty falls
to Kuwa, the road head from where one crosses the Yamuna
river by trolley to the camp site on the banks of the river near
Lakhamandal Temple.

In the afternoon there is an excursion to Lakhamandal Temple.
There is an one kilometre climb from the campsite to the
temple.

2nd day: After an early breakfast drive back 15 km from
Kuwa to Nainbag from where the trek starts. Night halt
is at the picturesque Pantwari village, 9 km from Nainbag
and on the banks of a stream.

3rd day: Trek steadily up hill 6 km from Pantwari to Nag
Tibba Rest House - now in ruins (2,656 metros), for the night
halt in a mixed forest of oak and fir.

4th day: Trek (14.5 km) from Nag Tibba Rest House,via
Nag Tibba (3,022 metres) for a panoramic view of over
200 miles of the Himalayas to Goriaph Dhar (2,435 metres)
on the ridge for the night halt.

5th day: A trek of 13 km down hill from Goriaph Dhar to
Thethyur in the valley for the night halt on the banks of
the Aglad tributary of the Yamuna river.

6th day: After a leisurely breakfast with time off for bird
watching, drive 30 km from Thethyur to Mussoorie in time
for lunch.

A trek to the virgin and untouched coniferous, green
valley. Located in the western range of the Garhwal Himalayas, it
is a view-point of the glittering snow-capped peaks of Bundar
Punch to Swarga Rohini. This area has the best
Pine and Deodar forests in all over Asia, full of rich wildlife
which serves as a paradise for birds watchers and nature
lovers.

Drive from Mussoorie to Naitwar, travelling past the Kempty
Falls and the Yamuna river. You will be visiting remote,
historical and cultural places of Jounsar Bawar, Rawai,
Jounpur and through some villages where polyandry is
practiced. To the legendary and mythological temples
of Lakhamandal (the exile of Pandavas) with ancient
sculptures of the 8th century A.D. to Mahasudevta
temple of Naitwar,with its rarewood carving.

The trek will start from Naitwar travelling along the
upper bank of Supin river in the shade of the thick
pine forest upto Taluka village, the people of a diverged
culture and worshippers of Duryodhana.

From there to Osla and then to Har-ki-Doon the trek is through
terraced mountain fields, lush green grassy land and coniferous
forest and ultimately reaching the beautiful multicoloured
flower-ridden meadows of Har-ki-Doon.

3. MUSSOORIE - YAMUNOTRI - DODITAL TREK
(A 10 days' programme)

Starting from Mussoorie by motorable road and passing the
scenic and historical places like Kempty Falls, Lakhamandal,
Naugaon, Barkot, Gangani upto Hanuman chatti all along the
right bank of the beautiful Yamuna river. The trek commences
from Hanuman chatti along the pilgrim route upto Yamunotri
through the green and lush forests.Yamunotri is at a height
of 3,185 metres and offers you an enchanting flavour of the
religious shrine with its breathtaking hot sulphur water springs.
Then you go down up to hanuman chatti and then to Dodital
via the beautiful Anicha pass. The glitter of the morning sun
on the snowy peaks and wide panoramic view of the Himalayan
giants.

[++Page 17]

Now you will reach Dodital which is at an altitude of 3,024
metres. Its crystal clear water is full of the
rare species of the Himalayan trout
fish (angling can be arranged). Dodital to Uttarkashi will be
an easy trek down through the woods, fields and villages of
Agoda, Kalyani and Gangnani. Uttarkashi is a well known
religious and upcoming Himalayan township, famous for its
old temples, shrines and meditating Yogis and Sanyasis.
Leaving Uttar-kashi by motorable road will bring
you back to Mussoorie via Tehri, Chamba, Dhanoulti
and Surkanda Devi.

Nagtibba is situated on the foothills of the Garhwal Himalayas.
This place is on a saddle and the sun rise from this spot is an
enrapturing sight of the great Himalayan range. It gives you a
touch of natures' sanctuary, with the singing and chirping
of birds, the thick forests and grassy patches. On the
way you will pass by the rocky river
Aglar. Now move towards
Devalsari, through the thick Deodar
forest with its pleasing
natural odour. From Devalsari to Nagtibba the colour views
of the terraces is enchanting.