For so
many Americans this has been the decade of our discontent. Terrorism,
war, economic hardship, political strife, nature’s fury and our own
man-made disasters have combined to deliver seemingly endless blows
against the normally resilient national spirit. The onslaught of bad
news has eroded our confidence in our institutions, our government, and
in ourselves—causing a great number of our citizens to be swept up in
the current atmosphere of anger, distrust and cynicism. But despite
these hard times, the vast majority of Americans begin their day with a
bit of hope, a dash of optimism and a good cup of coffee. And for those
daily commuters from Woodbridge, New Jersey that are lucky enough to
travel to work by train, the coffee is provided free of charge by the
gracious and accommodating staff at the
J. J. BITTING
BREWING COMPANY.

I began my own quest for that gratis daily grind with some degree of
hesitation. There was the enticement of getting to meet Republican
Congressman Leonard Lance, New Jersey’s only member of the elite
bipartisan House
Small
Brewers Caucus. But after two decades of a
relatively peaceful lifestyle in a small river community on the
Delaware River, I no longer relished the thought of a rush hour jaunt
into the hectic, more heavily populated environs of the eastern central
portion of the state. And after many years of quaffing quality craft
beer in outstanding brewpubs from the coast of Maine to the mountains
of California, what could be possibly waiting in Woodbridge that would
make this trip worth my while?

THE J.J. BITTING
BREWING COMPANY INHABITS THE
BUILDING WHICH HOUSED THE J.J. BITTING
COAL COMPANY IN THE EARLY 1900'S. AT THE TIME, THE STURDY BRICK EDIFICE
BUILT RIGHT ALONG THE TRACKS AS A RAIL ROAD DEPOT WAS THE TALLEST
BUILDING IN WOODBRIDGE, NEW JERSEY.
THE
STRUCTURE SAT VACANT FOR 35
YEARS UNTIL 1997 WHEN ENTREPRENEUR MIKE CERAMI IN AN INSPIRED ENDEAVOR
BROUGHT IT BACK TO LIFE AS ONE OF THE PREMIER BREW PUBS IN THE ENTIRE
UNITED STATES.

BREWER JAMES
MOSS ORIGINALLY FROM OREGON NEAR EUGENE IS RESPONSIBLE FOR EVERY DROP
OF THE DELECTABLE AMBER ELIXIRS SERVED AT J.J. BITTING BREWING
COMPANY.

THE
MAIN
BREWHOUSE IS UP IN THE TOWER. A CRANE WAS ESSENTIAL IN GETTING THE TANK
AND KETTLES THROUGH THE HIGH WINDOWS TO THEIR PERCH DURING THE
RENOVATION.

JAMES MOSS HEAD
BREWER (right) AND TOM PAFFRATH, BREWING CONSULTANT AND MEMBER OF THE WHALES BREW
CLUB

ATTENTION TO
DETAIL, A CASUAL AMBIANCE, AND A REVERENCE FOR FINE ART ENHANCE YOUR BITTING
EXPERIENCE.

Any
misgivings about the excursion were instantly dispelled upon
entering the impressive 100 year old brick structure that originally
housed the J.J. Bitting Coal and Feed Depot. The operation thrived
into the mid-twentieth century, but eventually yielded to those market
forces that moved the majority of people and goods from the railways to
the roadways. A number of different businesses occupied the space after
the depot closed; but eventually the site was abandoned until the
inspired redevelopment that led to the establishment of the brewery and
restaurant in 1997.

Having been brought up in a devout Catholic family with ties scattered
about the city of New York, I learned firsthand at a very young age the
difference between a church and a cathedral. And if J.
J. BITTINGwas
under the administration of the Holy See it would be the basilica of
brewpubs!

After a second dose of caffeine and some self-guided exploration of the
facility, Ed Petersen, the magazine’s creative director, and I made
ready for the main event. The pols and the press were quickly put into
position, and shortly thereafter Congressman Lance presented Mike
Ceramic, the owner of J.
J. BITTING with a signed copy of House
Resolution 1297, which officially acknowledges the goals and ideals of
American Craft Beer Week.

A
SCULPTURE BY GLENN
MURGACZ
COMMEMORATES THE BUILDING'S TRACK SIDE PAST. IT ALSO
CELBRATES LOCAL ORGANIZATIONS SUPPORTED BY OWNER MIKE CERAMIWHICH ARE
ENGRAVED UPON IT.

"DECISION 2010"
AND THE WINNER IS. . . THE CONGRESSMAN MAKES HIS CHOICE AS JOHN
McCORMAC; THE WELL RESPECTED MAYOR OF WOODBRIDGE
EARGERLY AWAITS THE OUTCOME.

With
the formalities now attended to, the tour and tasting commenced.
Finally there was the chance to trade in the contents of the coffee pot
in favor of the contents of the copper pot. While it is not the policy
of American
Public
House
Review to endorse political candidates or
their parties, we will certainly recognize and hold in high regard any
individual that reflects our taste in beer. Both the Honorable
Representative from New Jersey’s 7th district and I picked the Garden
State India Pale Ale as our personal favorite.

As the morning progressed into afternoon, I had the chance to embrace
small pieces of several American stories: the entrepreneur, the brewer,
the mentor, the mayor and the United States Congressman. All of these
tales had a common thread, they were the accounts of human beings that
had brought to their work passion, dedication, integrity and caring for
their fellowman. These were the narratives of optimism that are so
badly needed in these
troubling times—and the reasons why we as a people will ultimately
rebuild, and renew America’s promise.

As I hoisted a final pint of cask conditioned IPA, I remembered the
Latin phrase, In
vino veritas, “in wine there is
truth,” and to that I
might add, In cervisia
speramus — In beer there is
hope!