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A competent company would have hedge against the Currency movement. The movement was offset by the slide in Oil pricing which from memory went down to $34. So, the B.o.D should be fired by the shareholders. Perhaps, that will start to wake up the UK B.o.D’s to being a tad more on the ball. BritExit is a figleaf to hide behind. You are in a business where FX & Oil price changes on a daily basis. You have been in the business for 20 years. Time to use that experience. Not come up with feeble excuses that know one believes. Oh and by the way. PAY your UK Taxes like everybody else does!

Hedging against “normal” currency fluctuations is relatively straightforward and costs relatively little. Could you inform us how you would have cost-effectively hedged against the “step change” plunge in the Brexit Pound. The Brexit Pound lost 15-20% of it value overnight and hasn’t recovered, nor does it look like it will recover for some years, if at all. Come on, clever clogs, give us the benefit of your infinite wisdom. P.S. How poor are you?

Well, Ted, Irrespective and regardless of the funds and assets of my name, I have a functioning brain. Knowledge is power and Power is Money. With this in mind, I have been destined to be wealthier than you since birth. When the Asset and finance are added to this, I’m clear living such a lavish lifestyle that I can afford to waste time replying to you without fear of being made Bankrupt. Enjoy your Evening Ted. :o)

After a short break from Blogging, we can report that this printer is still performing well.

It took a little while for the Firmware to become stable. But, the current version seems to complete most builds now.

We have switched from using Cura to Slic3r V1.2.9 as we found that this package seems to work without issue when slicing the models.

I settled on using Autodesk’s 123D Design program which can be used freely and exports the STL files that the Slic3r can convert to G-code files. You can use the MOD-t printer utility to upload the G-Code to the printer via the MOD-t Printer Tools/Settings/Advance button using a connected USB cable.

You should have this utility loaded on the PC as part of the original setup of the printer. This way gives you more control over what settings are used. Rather than rely on the Manufacture New Matter Cloud site.

The only negative is that you have to connect the Laptop to the MOD-t whilst the G-code is uploaded. Against, the New Matter servers talking to the printer via the wireless adapter built-in.

The printer seems to have quite a sizeable memory. As we have been able to upload what seems quite complex G-code files and still be able then to remove the USB. Before pressing the flashing button to start the process off.

We amended the Slic3r with the Platform size of 150 x 100 and gave it the origin offsets x-75 & y-50 to start from the middle point of the platform. As previously we hadn’t and this made a bit of a noise as the printer tried to print off the platform. Once, we grasped this issue. The 3D build processed without issue.

We made a couple of tweaks to the file. Which we have uploaded for anyone else to use. You can open the page by clicking on here.

Then select the text and copy and paste to a file with .INI at the end of it.

Tweak One:

We stop it drawing around the actual model. This was ok at the start a learning process. However, once we started using the full platform size the printer was again trying to print in fresh air again. So, we turned that off in this config.

Tweak Two:

We have raised the first lay temperature to 215’C for the first layer. We left the next at 200’C which again seems to work well.

Tweak Three:

Under the speed section, we reduced the speed overall to 20%. Whilst this sounds very slow. We don’t now have issues of the 3D model detaching itself from the platform since this was adopted.

We have received the long awaited MOD-t 3D printer yesterday from the USA care of DHL.

Well, I have to first congratulate the box designers in their overall design. The whole package has the Apple look and feels to it.

Everything is packed well and survived its long trip without any breakages or movement of elements inside the box.

New Matter MOD-t 3D Printer.

As you can see the overall size is not huge. But, in reality, would you want an industrial-size 3D printer in your living room? Perhaps, not.

As we have come from the AutoDesk™ camp from many years ago. We should be able to produce some designs to test out this 3D printer.

Setup is reasonably easy once you have carefully removed the packaging from the printer. Then, the next instruction is to go to an HTTP address and download the software element. This in effect is a step by step installation program.

Once the software has been downloaded the next stage is to install it onto your system. Once, you have completed this. It asks you to plug in the USB lead into the device and Windows then recognises it. This then allows the software to download the current firmware for the MOD-t. Once, that is completed they then progress on to the loading the filament and then finally connecting to the WiFi in the home by asking you for the Password key.

MOD-t 3D Printing Models.

All went smoothly until we got to connecting to the wireless. Despite me checking the key-code twice. It wasn’t going to connect. I referred to the MOD-t support site. Which suggested turning off the MOD-t and disconnecting the USB after? Anyway, once I waited the 5 minutes. As instructed and then turn it on again the printer connected to the WiFi with no problem. I do remember some email from them. When they were still rolling out in the USA there were issues reported. However, the system once connected hasn’t caused any issues since. It has been turned off and moved on several occasions. Well, the next thing is trying a 3D print. As you can see I went for the old 3D puzzle. I’m still scratching my head on how to put it together. But, the end result is very impressive based on the cost of the device.

We throw an AutoDesk™ Fan at it and well. Either, the model isn’t up to scratch or it was a failed attempted? It looked OK in the preview picture. Anyway, we will have to play around with it more to find out itn’s strengths and weaknesses.

A 1Kg filament roll comes in at £21.50 excluding shipping from the local EU supplier. So, the running costs shouldn’t be too harsh to the Tagware 3D fund.

We have been looking into how to make 30%+60% savings on your Gas bill. By automating some more of the mundane things that go unnoticed month after month.

One of which was the TADO 2 review. But, since then. I have found another bit of kit that will allow you to control the whole house environment without costing the earth to make it happen.

Whilst, we are all for Renewables in this house. You can’t keep spending thousands without having some payback.

However, these devices are in the £9-19 each. Which, I think should be within everybody’s pocket who has either a flat or house.

Well most houses/flats in the UK have water based heating systems with the thermostat house in the hall and TRV’s on the radiator. However, just like in the TADO V2 review. Things have moved on.

These little chaps are able to adapt more to the way that the room is used by day and time.

For example. Most people have TRV are set to a static position. Bedrooms are in 17-18ºC and the front room is set at 22-24º depending on how old you are.

What these devices allow you to do is set up the room for different heat requirements depending on what time the day or week it is.

For example, in the morning when you are in the Dining room/Kitchen. The front room is set to 17º and when it gets to say 5 pm they then adjust to the 22ºC temperature. So, when the heating turns on they increase the heat in that room.

Thus saving gas by not heating rooms that are not being used. Zone heating without all the fuss of re-doing all of the pipes.

What’s more, these can be fitted by anyone. As you don’t need to drain the system. All that is required is that the old TRV is opened up. Then, to untwist the chrome ring under to remove the static TRV.

Pull out the battery tag from the new device and enter the Year, by moving the disc on the front left or right then pressing once to store. Then, move on to the Month and Date. Progress on the hour and minutes using the same method. It then prompts you to place it in position. So, carefully screw in the device and once firm then press the disc button again to complete.

The device will then close the valve and then open it fully a couple of times. So, it can work out how much valve movement there is.

Then, you can progress to programming, which type of scheme you wish to use. Again, using the disc to choose from either each per 7 days being different, 5 Working and 2 days Weekends or all the same for all 7 days.

It defaults to 00:00 at 17.0C, from 0600 to 0900 at 21’C and then drops from 0900 to 17:00 to 17’C again. Then, at 17:00 to 23:00 backup to 21’C and then finally from 23:00 to 00:00 goes to 17’C.

All of these timings and temperatures can be change to your household routine.

For those who like to sit in another room and change the thermostats remotely.

It’s the same in installation as the above. But, this model is Bluetooth enabled. Using an App on your phone. You can pair each of the devices via Bluetooth throughout the house to your phone and change
the schedules remotely. Even, in a different part of the house. Time to get your own back on the TV remote!

You can obtain the App from hereIf, you, have more radiators in a room. You can even have two or three valves control by room. Or, you can change them individually.

Hours of fun over Xmas and you even save money. What more do you need? For those that can’t remember to put the clock forward and back. You can set this to do it automatically.

The non-Bluetooth devices come in at £9.95 each and the Bluetooth version is £19.95 each.

But, it does stop you having to move into the room to adjust them.

We’ve been pleasantly surprised in the way we have been able to manage the heating system room by room. Rather than allowing the TRV just to adjust the overall house temperature.

Yes, there are other systems out there that stitch the whole system together. But, they are expensive compared to these devices that do the same task. Well, that’s my point of view. What’s yours?

Well, it eventually had to happen. It was only a matter of time before they got to me.

Yes, you guess right.

A phone call on our private line say that “This is Microsoft here, you seem to have an issue with you PC. Your PC seems to have a Jar file that is causing an issue”

Well, the thought did cross my mind to string along this India sounding Lady. However, I had better things to do with my time. Like writing this Blog!

It seems that the oversea call centres have branched out into technical support. As you would expect, she asked me to turn on my PC. So, that she could fix the problem from me. To which I replied “SCAM”.

None too impressed she swore down the phone. Then, disconnected me.

It does question if our phone provider should be doing more than shrug their shoulders in this case. As with Big Data now in full swing. It should be reasonably easy to pick up this number of calls going into this system from a specific area.

However, to answer the question. Rather than say “SCAM” and get an earful. I would suggest saying we don’t have a PC. Well, that isn’t too far off from being the truth.

However, whilst the boiler is now hopefully a very efficient one? The basic heating control system that we use to control it hasn’t really changed since the 1970’s. If you had TVR’s on your radiator. It was a major talking point when you had the Jones around for Dinner Party. Yes, can hear you saying when did you last have one of those? To some “What is a dinner party?” It’s, about as far back as saying that Records (Black plastic discs with music on) use to spin around at 45 or 33 1/3 RPM. I can hear quite a lot of you saying what’s one of those as well.

Well, the point I’m trying to make is things have moved on. Where the heating control systems of most households are still in the 1970’s. Looking back at my Electric and Gas bills, we were extremely wasteful of our energy resources then.

Well in 2015, we all know the Gas and Electric bills have never been so high in the UK. So, whilst we have a rest bite in the charges increasing year on year. This is only because the current oil price is being at $45 a barrel compared to the $100+ it was last year.

This can only go on for a period of time. Yes, I know they said that when interest rates went down. But, they had assumed then, that inflation would take off again to come to the Banks and Government’s rescue. i.e. 10 years of inflation at 3% would eat into the debt. Everyone would be happy soon. Well relatively soon to the span of Government.

Well, inflation hasn’t taken off and China has decided that it can’t manufacture the figures any longer. As sensible people have reduced our expenditure. Surprisingly, we have also sat on our money, as we are not convinced that there is anything sensible to put the money into without risk. Bar the buy to Let crew in Property. That is now looking decidedly doggy.

Anyway, that another story for later. Back to the point. Most heating systems nowadays are controlled by a timer of such. So, Monday to Fridays the heating kick’s in at 6:30 am and continues to around 8:30 am and then cuts off until say 4:30 pm and then finishes the day at 10:30 pm or 11 pm for the night owls of our readership.

Saturday and Sunday these will probably slip by 1/2 hour. But, you don’t generally remember to change the settings on a daily basis and heaven’s if you can remember to change the clock forward and back for daylight saving!

Well, you say we have a thermostat which will keep it in check. Yes, you probably have. But, it probably still working with a bit of tin, that when at roughly the right temperature will flick off. The trouble is, these devices themselves have had their day. They are in the same generation as the first Colour TV’s.

OK. Some of you have been keeping up with the current kit. But, this tends to be the technical crew that is a very small proportion of the public. Now, if you talking about the just released mobile phone such as the new Samsung or Apple that’s different.

However, not using the best systems for controlling your heating is probably costing you £100’s a year!

I choose the TADO system for a couple of reasons. Whilst, the others had the ability at the time to change the temperature and turn on and off the system remotely using the App on your mobile phone. They, at the time, didn’t monitor if you were at home or work.

So, if you did change your schedule. You still had to remember to modify the settings remotely at home. Yep, you’re like me. No chance.

So, the TADO system has the normal settings of turning on and off at certain times of the day. Each can be modified to attain a predetermined temperature. So, you can ask for it to get to the 20’C by 6:30 am. It does that. It also know’s over time how long it will need to achieve this goal. The nice feature is that it takes account of the outside temperature and the weather. So, for example, if it turns out to be a nice sunny day (OK I know I’m in the UK) and can take advantage of the natural heat provided by that Sun it does so. It also uses the outside temperature to work out the best way to get that temperature.

The other thing it has is over the top of this. Are you can set the system to monitor if your mobile device(s) is at home or away. So, when the last person leaves the house it stops warming it to the current target temperature. So, if you like me and wander off for 1-2 hours in the morning. It allows for the temperature to drop to 17’C while you are out. If you are working late or the trains are up to the spout again and the heating is set to warm up the house to 20’C and you don’t make it home till later. It will heat the house when you start to get near home. Rather, than heat up an empty house. Again, it works out how long it will take.

The other item of intelligence is the “over chute” issues. Yep, can hear you say “What the hell is that?” Well, most boilers have systems not to turn on and off too frequently. As this wastes energy. Similar to some cars stopping the engine when you are stationary for a length of time. After a period of time, the system knows that it can shut off the heating and the temperature will still rise to the target temperature. As the heat already in the water will pass through the radiators to get to the temperature without any further heating. Most boilers pumps continue to circulate the water for a certain time. When you sign up for the online account TADO asks what heating boiler you have? So, it can take these things into account and adjust its settings to get the best out of the Gas you use. Now because the system is connected to the internet for the system to react to if you are at work or on the way home. TADO can improve the efficiencies over time. How?

Well, one way is that the temperature controller is very sensitive to heat. It works at 0.1’C rather than the normal 20’C ish with most controllers. So, if you have a day that you have set the heating system off while you are out. It monitors how quickly the temperature falls on a given day. For example, it may be 13’C outside and the inner temperature is at 20’C. It monitors the losses that occur over time. So, if the temperature drops by a 1.5’C over an hour on a Windy/Rainy day. It adds this to its knowledge on the heat loss that occurs for your specific home. Clever!

So, the “Big Question?” as Dr Who would say. Has it reduced our heating costs? Well despite us having an electronic thermostat. Which, most of my neighbours don’t. Yes, it has.

Originally, I was more interested in the feature of being able to monitor the house temperature remotely and I didn’t expect a large amount of savings over what is a reasonably old 1930 house. True it does have it’s thermal blanket in the roof (Loft Insulation). However, based on it current savings it will probably save its costs in less than 2 years and this can only grow as the gas bill increases over time.

Any issues? Well unless you know what you are doing. I would recommend getting the installer to install it for you. However, I did manage to complete the task without any help. However, I have already rewired the thermostat before and have the time to read up on these things.

A couple of points, though.

TADO support and I did complete a quite lengthy email support call in the Geo-function. That’s the service to work out if you are in the house or not. It seems that if you are not in a strong area for mobile masts. It can have difficulty knowing that you are home.

However, I think it was probably more to do with the fact that my Samsung S3 LTE was running Android 4.3. As, when I upgraded the S3 to the Stock German issued Android 4.4.4. It seems to have made the services a lot more reliable. Seeing as the guys haven’t moved the Mobile Masts. It seems reasonable to me that the firmware upgrade did the trick. Now, for most people, you are likely to have a later version of Android on your phone than that. I’m just a Luddite when it comes to mobile phones. No need to upgrade the S3 LTE phone unless I have to. It’s got 4G! what more do you need? :o)

The other thing that the installer will know anyway. Is to make sure that the TADO Bridge device in the system is not too near the actual TADO thermostat. It is supposed to have at least 3+ meters distance from the bridge that connects to the router to the TADO thermostat. This is due to the system NOT using the normal 2.4Ghz wireless frequency (WiFi), which will normally now be very busy in most households. TADO system uses a lower frequency in the MHz range. Hence, the recommendation to have at least 3 meters plus the distance between the actual TADO Thermostat and the TADO bridge that plugs into the router of the internet provider ADSL/Cable network you have.

Also, make sure that you take the time to make a note of the Gas Boiler manufacturer and its correct model number. There are lots to choose from when you sign up for an account that the TADO Bridge and Thermostat use. Make sure you get the right one!

All in all. Once settled, the system has worked well for over a year. Like all new items. People do complain first without checking or reading the instructions. If, it was that easy. Then, why would you offer an installation service? Most people don’t have issues, that use the install service from what I can see. Self-install is a learning experience!

– Harm to Green Belt/countryside– Hazard to highway safety– Increase in traffic and congestion– No need for the development– Out of character with surrounding area– Overdevelopment– Poor design

Comments:

As stated in the planning portal. This is HM Gov policy. http://planningguidance.planningportal.gov.uk/blog/policy/achieving-sustainable-development/delivering-sustainable-development/9-protecting-green-belt-land/ There is absolutely no reason whatsoever to grant this application. It is questionable whether it should even be considered by the Reigate and Banstead BC. As it seems very similar to the previous application 14/00440/CU. This is not a major new development and in not in a Local plan. The applicant is purely trying to purchase the land cheap and then establish planning permission on it. This is practice should recognise for what it is. A commercial firm trying to save money by not utilising a Brownfield site. Which, there are many available. One example is that Fire station on the A217. Which, is being suggested is surplus to requirements? This set-aside. The additional traffic that would be created on an over utilised part of the A2022 would not allow for the normal Village High Street to function. The road currently backs up when the school drops occur. This would just exasperate the situation. I highly doubt that the mourners would relish sitting in a traffic jam in a Hearse. A commercial firm is required to utilise assets fully. This is shown by the size of the area given to the Car Park. This would easily create additional 300-400 car journey a day to and from the site. You have now established a Fire Station at the Banstead Police station. How do you propose that this engine attends incidents with the blocked traffic flow? The location of the proposed Crematorium just opposite Sunrise Residential Care home is unbelievably crass. I believe the application should be rejected by the Borough council. With the advice, that this site it not appropriate for the business that the applicant wishes to use it for. The Borough Council should also consider 3 rejections and then no further Planning Applications should be allowed to be considered for the Land in 10 years to stop this speculative behave occurring.

Step 2. Plug-in the Camera into the USB power supply and let it do its thing. Be careful not to touch the top of the camera whilst it’s moving. iSensor design to move the camera. But, not you holding it while it’s moving. Once Blue Light is static

Step 3. Make sure the Phone you are using is connected locally to the WiFi spot. Start App and answer which WiFi you wish to use along with the security passphrase. It then presents you a QR Code on your Phones screen.

Step 4, You place the phone display in front of the iSensor 1.0 Megapixel lens Camera about 10-14 cm away from its front lens with the QR pointing at the iSensor Camera lens. It will beep twice and then you can play!

Yep, it is that simple to setup.

What’s more. You can later set it up for 3 more WiFi spots should you need to move it to your friends to show off.

So, what’s going on here? Well, when you show the QR code to the camera. It is reading its setting directly via this method. Clever thinking. Better than asking your Users what IP range/DNS/Proxy setting. Which, we know what happens here. So, a Gold star for the person who thought through this install.

So, you hear all of the horror stories of people not securing the IP Cameras from the folks on the internet. Well that not going to happen here.

These guys and girls have used the strength of 256-bit encryption to encode the video stream from your iSensor to your phone. So, even our little friends at GCHQ and the other lot at NSA would have a little bit of computing to do to crack this feed. However, the main point is that each and every camera has its own id and password. So, it is as secure as it’s ever going to be. Which, is a big improvement from ‘admin’ and ‘1234’ which are normal settings of IP Cam’s.

So, what does that app provide? Well, I’d be into 10’s of pages if I went through all of the features. However, the main one are as follows;

Alert Section

Privacy Mode: that allow you to turn off the iSensor with a swipe of a finger.

Motion sensor: this can be set to send you either a photo of the thing that’s moved or just a txt notification.

Microphone: you can set this to listen to the room via the app or set it so it alerts you when something where the iSensor is, makes a noise. Intruder for example or a child.

The iSensor also has a vibration sensor: So, it will pick up any vibration that could be the first signs of a break in. Or, Johnny hitting a ball against the window.

When an Alert event occurs. The device has a quite strong LED that can turn on to record the scene as the iSensor sees it at the time.

Sharing video

Ability to Share the Video stream to other people. So, Dad or Mum can check that their little darlings are behaving with the Babysitter. Or, Grandparents can be allowed to check in on the newborn.

Snapshot timing: Allows a date stamp to be imprinted on the Picture sent

Video timing: Allows a running time video to record what is happenings in front of the iSensor.

You now have the ability to Share the iSensor securely. Once or Multiple times by setting up a Browser viewer which again provides a unique code and id to connect to the camera. Just in case you leave your phone at Home when you go to work or decide to leave it at Home when you go on holiday. You can allow the family to check out the house while you are away. Then, remove this privilege on your return.

Google Drive

For those that wish to. You are provided with an option to upload either Snapshots or Video up to the Cloud using a Google account. Which, if you don’t have at the time. You can set up via the App.

You can set this to a Continuous mode which uploads until you filled up the 15Gb space and then overwrites again when you have reached the 15Gb limit. Or, set it up to upload only on an event. Noise, Movement etc.

Resolution can be sent from 360, 480p or the 720p highest setting.

App provides a Storage Graphic to show how much is left to use on the App screen itself.

iSensor Video Control

In the App, you can have up to 4 iSensors to control remotely.

They are able to swing about physically 80′ to both left and right. This gives 240′ sweep including Camera Lens optical coverage.

The camera Lens has been designed to provide the best non-distorted view that I have seen on this level of IP CAM.

You select the camera and then press the ‘Play’ button and the image buffers 0-80% in a couple of seconds. Yes, it does work over 3G!

By swiping your finger to the left or right the camera will move.

You can modify all settings without actually being in the same place at the iSensor.

So, there you have it. What haven’t they got covered on this device?

So, I can hear you say. What the price?

Well, you can have one of these delivered for £114.95 including VAT. (£95.97 + VAT @ 20% for Business Customers)

Been some time, I know. I thought I would share iSolar Boost a new device for you guys to save more money on your fuel bill.

So, if you have a Gas System, rather than a Gas combi heating system, this is for you. If you use electricity or Gas to heat your water then read on…….

Why does the boiler system matter?

Well generally the Gas Combi system, heats your water to the point of requiring it. This has its benefits, in that it doesn’t waste energy, heating a water tank that doesn’t get used.

However, for those that don’t. Here is another way of bringing down your water heating bill.

If you have PV in the UK you will know that we get some money back on the energy that we export to the UK grid. This is normally provided at 50% of the actual amount that your generation meter states, for systems that are under 4kW in size. Which, is most UK domestic installations.

Initially, this seems a fair amount. However, as the export rate is currently in at £0.045per unit. You don’t get a great amount. As the electric Co get to charge your neighbour 14-15 pence for each unit they use, which you created. That also includes you in the evenings! Besides the additional 20% that they would have to generate to get that amount to the end user. I think they are doing well out of this deal!

However, if you could transfer some of that exported energy into something useful? You still get the exported amount. So, you lose nothing, but you could also heat up the hot water tank. Now that would be worthwhile as it would save on the Gas or even better Electricity bill!

Well, there are several devices, that are available to do such a job.

The one I choose after some research was the Solar iBoost – Free Hot water from your PV / Solar Array – Immersion controller.

It costs £199.00 + VAT & Postage and comprises of a wireless monitor that taps to the incoming power supply in a similar way to the Electronic Monitoring devices, that tell you how much electricity you are using do.

The device itself is fed directly from the electric supply going to the Hot water tank. This device just sits in between. The power is increased and decreases automatically. So, you never import electric!

Or, in my case. I utilised another MCB from the consumer unit. As we didn’t use the electrical heating element in our Valiant tank in the first place. We just allowed the Gas boiler to complete the job. As that was cheaper than using the electric option.

The tap on the incoming power supply measures how much electricity is being exported. If, there are more than 200 watts. Then, the small box diverts the additional amount of power into the Hot water tank. It takes around 7 units to heat the water of a 150-litre tank to 60’C.

But, this device utilises the smallest amount of energy, but always keeps that 200-watt buffer. So, as soon as you turn on the kettle to make tea for example. It shuts down and allows internal energy to be used before any electricity import occurs. It may not heat the complete tank to the 60’C during the day. But, it will certainly build the heat of the water up. So, when the Gas boiler does fire it doesn’t have to use so much gas to heat the water to 60’C. If you use electricity to heat your water it will save you even more!

So, on my small PV system of 2.4kW, it generally heats the water enough for the Gas boiler not to fire up in the evenings.

It’s been installed since the beginning of August and has generated 62 kWhrs of heat in 17 days! Currently, there is 1.6kW worth going into the tank as I write. On one day it said ‘HOT Tank‘ which means that it made it to the 60’C!

So, if you have a PV system that is greater than 2kW+ in size. I think this device is a no-brainer not to install – ASAP!

Well, that’s me done for now. As usual. Leave a comment and I’ll bounce a reply if you have a question.

ps. There are others devices that are cheaper. But, they have more of a trust element to them. As the device I have recommended, has a display for you to check the amount being put into the tank at that moment. Along, with the Weekly, Monthly and All time generation. This allowed for the device to be mounted by the Hot Water Tank and allows for the monitor tap to be in the meter cupboard downstairs. Just seems a cleaner install.

Update: Well it’s been a year now and a total of 670kW has been pushed into heating the water. Rather than going back to the grid. Although, I still get paid the feed rate back into the grid. At £0.15 per (2014) unit. That starting to add up (£100.50) and I have a small 2.4kW PV install. So, the unit will pay for itself in 3 years.