Did North Ridge yesterday. Trail is in good shape, but it was really wet from a week of rain. The route was wet in spots from rain the previous day, and the moss was holding more moisture than I've ever seen. It's the slippery kind. When it rained on us for the last pitch the moss (everywhere) was about as useful as verglas. A dude doing the GG traverse reported to us similarly slimy conditions.

Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks

Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks

If you're gong in to bivy the night before, you can go up the snowfield before bed and kick super deep steps before the snow hardens overnight

Doing Pervertical Sanctuary tomorrow...anyone know if its work wearing crampons to get to the N. Chimney? Anyone know if Pervertical is seeping?

We were up there on Saturday and I'd take something like yak tracks at minimum for the last little bit between the boulders and the start of N. Chimney especially if you get there before the sun is up. We thought a light ice axe wouldn't be a bad idea either. Definitely felt sketchy in my approach shoes trying to kick steps and grabbing the snow with my belay gloves on!

Any recent updates on Kieners route? Just wondering if it has dried out anymore since the last report (6/27).

Did Kieners solo on Saturday. Crampons up the Lambslide in great condition, traversed Broadway with no snow, and kept my approach shoes on all the way from B-way past the Notch to Upper Kieners and the finish.

Just did North Ridge on Spearhead today. Snowfield is shrinking in front of Sykes, saw a party go up this morning on it without a problem. Descents are dry. Also--mosquitos are out and swarming in upper glacier gorge! I'm covered with about 30-40 mosquito bites right now. They're going up pretty high too--I got bitten on the summit. Bring bugspray and synthetics, and if you value your face and arms, use a bivy sack with netting.

Just did Syke's Sickle on Spearhead yesterday. Route was dry and the descent we took via climbers left thru the notch was dry. The snow at the base was do-able for us in trail running shoes; we started after the sun had hit it (ca 8:00-8:30 am). As Anfarwal suggested, bug spray and netting would be needed if bivying. Tons of marmots, and they are also at the summit so watch your packs and helmets if you set them down while enjoying the amazing view!

Did pervertical yesterday (8/22) Spectacular Day!!!! Micro Spikes were very useful to get to the N. Chimney. The route was totally dry, no seepage (not that you would have to worry about that on that route). Tons of people doing D7 and the Casual Route, so I'm assuming they were dry as well.

Will anybody be interested in Beaver route (5.5) on East Longs this Saturday? Would love to have another pair of eyes for route finding. Descent via Cables or hike down Loft. Please let me know, Natalie mountainproject.com/v/the-beav...

Keyhole conditions are very alpine in flavor right now. Lots of verglas around 13,500' with patches of snow in the upper Trough, Narrows and Homestretch. Be prepared if you're heading up that way.

The Spearhead looked wet in the usual spots. The ledges below Syke's looked very wet. The south/east lower ramps (Below Age Axe and East Prow) looked wet. I saw and heard a party on North Ridge but can't comment on conditions. It should likely be dry today if it doesn't rain up there...

Chief's Head looked totally soaked.

But more importantly, has anyone been on/around The Diamond in the last few days? I got eyes on it yesterday and I didn't want to believe that it was very wet but, sadly, that may be the case. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks

UPDATE: Spearhead is mostly dry. Below the Eye of Mordor is wet so accessing routes over there may be problematic. Chiefs Head is still streaking but should be dry sooner than later. 8/3/14

Anyone been up (or down) the Cables route on Longs recently? Was thinking of taking my daughter up it this week if conditions were reasonable.

I was there the weekend before and it was pretty wet (aka waterfall type of wetness). I also was rappeling in the rain, so I am sure that wasn't helping. But even looking at it before the rain started showed a fair amount of water.