Is it worth going for 10 speed?

My current 9speed drive chain is beginning to look worn out and will need replacing soon. So do I replace with another 9sp or go for 10sp? I realize 10sp is where things are heading but I am not convinced 10sp is of a particular benefit to me as I run a 2 x 9 set up and use the granny ring a bit for those super steep climbs.

I cannot see that 1 x 10 set up will give the the lowest gears I need (currently run 22-32 and 11-32 cassette). However I may be wrong! Has anyone switched and found that the 1 x 10 (say 32 + 11-36) enough to get them up those steep climbs?

WOuld I be better off saving my pennies and going for the new 11 sp stuff when it eventually becomes affordable. With that I can see that a 1 x 11 set up could work for me!

just gone 2 x 10, as I needed a new cassette and having the clutch rear mech means I have ditched the stinger. Not sure about the change in gearing being needed that much but the drive train is virtually silent now and for me that is worth it.

I went to 10 speed but found only needed a 1 x 10 for 99% of my riding 36 upfront and a 36-11 out back simple system but you do need a chain device and the new plus systems dont work without one, chain still drops.

Dunno. On my hardtail I've just gone 1x10, first ride on it tonight, so I'll report back tomorrow.
Was previously using 2x9 with 24/36 rings and 11-34 cassette. 10 speed is 32t ring and 12-36 csssette.
Doing it as an experiment as I want to see what all the fuss is about. Parts were mainly second hand so no great disaster if doesn't work for me.

WOuld I be better off saving my pennies and going for the new 11 sp stuff when it eventually becomes affordable. With that I can see that a 1 x 11 set up could work for me!

Except for XX1 it doesn't exist so I'd not hold your breath, XX was arround a few years before everything else went 10s and that was a faily simple step. With the added problem that SRAM have probably patented all the good ideas like the mech that allows it to work without ghost shifting.

Your current lowest gear is about(22/32) 17.8"
The lowest on 10s (32t to 11-36) is 23.1"
The equivelant is about 22/29 on your current setup, or 1.5 less gears (assuimng the next down is 30t and the next is 28t), so you only really lose 1 gear and a a bit. I find 32-36 to be about as slow as I can be bothered pedaling, it's still quicker than walking, but only just.

Depends on your mech and shifter through, I upgraded when my mech got bent as the mechs were the same price and I needed chain/cassette anyway so the only cost was a £25 shifter.

As br said above unless you find out that you need rings and a cassette as well then it could be worth it especially now the sales are coming up on components. I did that last year and got some really good deals on a rear mech and a shifter etc. I now 1 x 10 on one of my 29er's.

I´ll put 10sp (1x10 - 36t ahead and 11-36 on my Piglet tonight), If it really steep uphill i can walk no worries :D, It is a trailbike but i have no problem walking the worst parts. I ride 1x9 now so for me it will be better for the trainbike,
I tell you later the difference.

I switched to 2 x 10 last winter on a 29er hard tail, TBH I am very doubtful it is any better than 9 gears. The gears to me seem far less tolerant to mud than when it was 2 x 9. It skips more and suffers really badly with leaves and mud particularly in the low gears. Spread of gears it is very hard to notice any difference from a 9 speed.
If I hadn't had to build a new drive train / and hadn't been curious I wouldn't have bothered. Knowing what I know now I would have stuck with a 9 speed.
What is good though is a clutched rear mech that does work well and is a very worthwhile investment.

32 11x36 is what I use for guiding. Gets me up 1,000m - 1,500m days in the mountains no problems. Not looking back to a 2 x 9 any day of the week as I'm now of the opinion that a slightly lower cadence climbing style is better; and using a chain device means no more dropped chains..

Have a KMC chain and power link, come off and on no probs. I believe the SRAM ones don't come off tho'. No problems with snapped chains (jinxed myself there no doubt)

Using a superstar plasma device. Dropped the chain once in 9 months of riding (in a crash). So cheap compared to the others on the market and you can get spare parts easily. Comes with a BB adapter.

1x10 is definitely worth it IMO, 2x10 a bit less so, the clutch mechs are still worth it for a hardworking bike though. (but with 2 rings, you're more likely to have a bottom chainguide already anyway)

So I'm going 9x10x2 speed my old SRAM 9-speed setup with a 10-speed Shimano mech on the end. I'd not be putting a 11-36 on the dual ring bikes anyway so the only advantage of 10 speed is the clutch, this way I get that at a fraction of the price, with a little faffing.

So I'm going 9x10x2 speed my old SRAM 9-speed setup with a 10-speed Shimano mech on the end. I'd not be putting a 11-36 on the dual ring bikes anyway so the only advantage of 10 speed is the clutch, this way I get that at a fraction of the price, with a little faffing.

Except for XX1 it doesn't exist so I'd not hold your breath, XX was arround a few years before everything else went 10s and that was a faily simple step. With the added problem that SRAM have probably patented all the good ideas like the mech that allows it to work without ghost shifting.

XX only preceded 10 speed X.0/X.9 by one year. The issue with a cheap XX1 will be making a 10-42 cassette that doesn't either cost £300 or weigh more than the wheel. Reckon there'll be some trickle down though.

IMO if you're happy with 2x9, and don't think 1x10 is for you then stick with 9.

I run a 2x9 SLX and a 2x10 XT. I wouldn't have bothered going for the 10sp except its what the new bike came with. In fact I was that close to 'downgrading' it to 2x9 as I had enough spare bits lying around and wanted to standardise across the two bikes.

But... contrary to others experiences above, I was really quite impressed with the 10sp stuff! Difficult to explain, but it just seems to work better compared to my 9sp.

Think the fact that Shimano have added all their latest tech to the 10sp has something to do with it. Stuff like the I-spec shifters, different pull ratio, directional chain, clutch mechs, multi-release shifter etc. Each on their own is just a small change, but when added together the whole drivetrain just works so perfectly its a pleasure to use.

I'm also noticing the 9sp stuff is starting to disappear already, and can be more expensive than the equivalent 10sp - at least at my favourite online discount stores it is.

Funny, if you look back in my posting history I was a die hard 9sp fan, and advising people not to bother upgrading to 10sp. But now I've tried it I'm looking for an excuse to upgrade my remaining 9sp bike

Since your currently running a 9spd 11-32 cassette there are a few things to consider. If you went 1x9 with what you have you would lose the bottom three granny gears, which could feel like a lot. But if you went 1x9 with an 11-34 (or 1x10 with an 11-36) you would lose only the bottom two granny gears which would feel like a lot less.

If your seriously thinking of giving 1x9/10 a go then try a ride without using the bottom two gears before your drivetrain dies... you might be surprised at what you can do.

It's always worth upgrading... how else are bike shops going to remain and the workers feed their families... think of the children

I recently replace my entire 2x9 drivetrain...with another 2x9 drivetrain, including a rear mech. I'm too weak and Scotland to hilly to go 1x10 and other than that I think the greater tolerances in 9 speed makes more sense for me. It would also mean I'd have to have bought new shifters, but given the cost of the other stuff that wasn't the deciding factor.

It will depend largely on your ability, but I was in your position and stuck with 2x9 as I had the same concerns as you about 1x10.

i wouldnt upgrade just for the sake of it, but my experience has been the same as perthmtb above, the 10 speed stuff just seems to work a bit better, and (warning, may be my imagination) it seems to wear better too.
2011 10 speed slx/xt here, non clutch mechs, running on 2 bikes.

I'm about to go 10 on the rear as I need to change cassette and chain so throwing in a mech and shifter isnt much more, be still running a triple 22-32-44 up front and to be different a road cassette on the back.

I ride 1x9 with a 34 front and a 12-36 cassette. The cassette is exactly the same as a 11-36 10spd one but obviously without the smallest cog. If I'm spinning out downhill then I'm on a fire road and if I'm descending on a fireroad then I should have a word with myself and just go home. If I could coordinate shifter,mech and cassette all wearing out at the same time then I would go to 1x10 but until that happens I reckon it's all working fine for me

In the old days and I am sure it applies now that it was better to use the middle front ring with the middle rear cogs, the little front with the big cogs at the back and the big ring at the front with the small cogs at the back. The main reason was to avoid undue stress and wear on the drive train. Now somehow 1*10 avoids all that, you loose the front mech, to replace it with a chain guide that very much looks like a front mech.

Anyway I have a 9 speed and a 10 speed setup. I went 10 speed as I liked the idea of the clutch rear much. It does what it is designed to do very well BUT at a cost! Shifting is loads stiffer and much more crunchy, the type of crunch you get when your chain is going to snap. On the 9 speed setup I have just used the tensioning screw on the derailure to much the same effect.

I much prefer the 9 speed setup. Shifting is so much smoother and power links that are easy to join/rejoin are a big big plus. Pity marketing wins out over what people need. Funny thing is that before 10 speed I am sure most people were getting rid of gears from there mountain bikes.

I've not read any of the other posts or past the second sentence of the OP's post.

Stick with 9 speed. Everything component is cheaper and you won't notice the difference. I went with 10 speed and every time I have to replace bits I wish I hadn't when I see the prices of the 9 speed stuff.

Stick with 9 speed. Everything component is cheaper and you won't notice the difference. I went with 10 speed and every time I have to replace bits I wish I hadn't when I see the prices of the 9 speed stuff.

Not strictly true, if you compare SLX and above quality 9 and 10 speed are the same price and in some cases the 9 speed is more expensive.