My Tern and Katana both go around 400' the Tern staying more dead center, with the Katana finishing more left. The vision and the SL have almost identical flight paths, with the SL giving me around 350 and the vision around 300. my Valk is VERY understable, but not to the point where I can really roll it yet, but it does a very nice left to right with a very small S-turn at the end. Good for low hyzer flips and turn shots @ and around 300-325. My Leopard is very flippy, basically a short Valk. 200 or so is all I use it for. Buzz gives me 150 or so of dead straight, while the Axis gives me about 200 max, but still pretty straight, with a small bit more fade over the buzz. My Roc is my go-to disc for most 100-150 approach shots, and the Gator I just got, but I'm figuring out it to be 200 max on big driving shots, or anything I need a short meat hook on. (I'm really liking the Gator). My shark, I hate lol. I bought it to replace an old DX shark from around 2002 I had and loved, but lost. It was soft gummy plastic, and did things that my roc couldn't do, and on more consistent lines. So F that shark. The Blue FL is my most stable disc, and it's not very stable lol. Gives me around 325 of headwind. The blizzard I don't know if I like or not, I bought it about 6 months ago, but it's so flippy, it turns over on me a lot of the time, to a point where I'm hesitant to use it more often than not. I get really good distance (400+) but it's kind of hit or miss if i'm going to have it doing what I want it to. My teebird is... well.. a teebird. Long straight drives, especially into headwinds. 200-300 feet and almost dead straight on anything 250-300, more fade under 250. My putters : P3 long putts, headwind putts, short approaches. White R-pro is my go-to putter most all of the time otherwise. The wizard I find pulling out in headwinds, but now with my p3 I dont know if i want to keep it in the bag. I do use it for short drives though, it's very firm. Hope this helps

There are plenty of mids of fairly straight flight path in there. Three long distance drivers of fairly similar behavior in the Tern, Katana ja Teedevil might be too much. DX Leo gets very flippy and a Champ flips only a little and at least some Stars don't flip at all.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

kadenspop wrote:should I even worry about finding an older leo over a brand new one?

A new champ leo will hold a stable straight line and fade at the end of a low 300' throw. An older, more loved leo, will turn easier with a later fade or hyzer flip to flat with little to no fade at all. I prefer the QJLS for that distance and keep a newer one for stable lines with fade, a seasoned one for stable lines without fade, and a beat one for hyzer flips, turnovers, shorter rollers, and uphill shots.

Until you figure out what discs you like, buy used. Better than that, borrow your buddy's discs and see how they feel and fly before getting a used one. Used for a few rounds or lightly used discs give you a truer indication of how they'll preform at half the cost as new. For example, hit a couple more trees and I'm betting that Tern goes long range roller and might not be what you're looking for.

I'd also suggest the Search feature on the upper right of this forum to find more in depth reviews for the discs you're curious about.

Shark is a good candidate for elimination and i'd do a shoot out on the field and the courses you play with all the drivers. Our preferences and needs may vary so could the dropped driver too. I have not needed to buy new Champ Leos for years because the old ones don't change. If the new ones won't flip i'd get a Star for more tackiness and a faster breaking in. Pro Leos flip more than old Champs. Leos are standard discs so why pay extra for them?

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

What discs you chose is going to be your preference. I'll 2nd what others have said so far - buy used discs, try friend's discs, and don't buy expensive/rare plastic.

Overall, try to fit five categories of drivers

1 - Very Overstable - utility shots2 - Moderately Overstable - headwinds and big hyzers3 - Stable Control - Workhorse driver, not a fast one, able to work any line4 - Understable - Turns right from a flat throw and has very little/no fade5 - Max D - Anything that gets you the most D when accuracy isn't a concern

You could get away with anything from 3-5 different driver molds to fill those roles.

For mids, get one that fades, one that flies straight, and one that turns right. For putters, get a driving putter that is stable, and one that will work turnover lines, and then find one mold you like for putting and buy 3-5 that you can practice with. For putting putters, don't buy premium plastic.

Yea, the shark is going. I'm comfortable with the midranges I have left, even with a little overlap with the axis and the buzz, they're just not the same disc. I've decided to let the Teedevil go, and I'll end up replacing it with something very overstable, because that's the one thing I'm missing in my bag for sure. I'm considering picking up a roadrunner or a TD, but i'm not in a rush. my final driver list should be : S-SL, S-Sidewinder (for rollers only) Champ flat Valk, FL, S-Katana, Champ Tern, and whatever overstable disc i get, and something to fill that confident 9-10 speed turn/hyzerflip disc. Mids Buzz,Gator,SM Roc,Axis. Fairway. DX leopard, (getting a) champ leo, S-Teebird, Vision. Putters will be the Prototype P3 and some Aviars. Right now I only have the r-pro P&A, but I want a McAviar and some more just basic Aviars. I don't really understand the difference between JK and the other types of Aviar, so I figure I'll just stay with what I know. Either way I'm getting a new bag though, just accidently found an email from a discgolf online store about the fade tourney bag i ordered lol... she didn't realize that the Credit card would email me to let me know about purchases over 50 bucks haha. Oh well, suprise ruined, happyness successful.

In the mail I have a Champ Glo TB, a pre numbers DX roc, and a KC Pro Roc on their way.

I have room for 1 more putter, and 4 more mid/fairway/combo of both. I think my drivers are pretty much right where they need to be. I might get a Nuke, non ss or os, but other than that, I am either just gonna keep collecting TB's and Rocs, unless you guys have any suggestions.

as a number, my drivers are around 400, TB's around 300, Rocs 200-250 (full power)

You have a ton of different discs and in different variations of the same mold so it might be difficult to beat in a base plastic one into preferable state and get a back up for it when you carry a primo version of the same disc. Normally people can make do with fewer drivers and mids. Aren't the Tern and the Katana pretty overlapping for example? Are you going to carry each Roc variation? You bag plenty already with more on the way.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.