Type: Wavy / Subtype 2abcdIf the natural hair pattern has a soft to deep ‘s’ or sideways ‘m’ pattern, to it, this falls within the typing category of wavy. Wavy hair tends to grow flatter or closer to the head and is usually less frizzy than curly or coily hair.Typically, truly ‘s’ wavy hair also hangs in a downward [southernly] direction when dry as opposed to outward and will usually stretch when wet. While being neither entirely straight nor truly curly, wavy hair still can more easily adopt the looks of either category, by: 1) Use of the right ‘curl enhancing’ products and scrunching techniques, etc. if a curled look is desired, or 2) A blow out or run through with a flat iron if straight styling is desired. [Wavy Hair Examples: Gwyneth Paltrow (actress), Cab Calloway (jazz musician), Irene Michaels (model/actress), Thurgood Marshall (Supreme CT Justice), Yasmine Ghauri (VS model), Irene Cara (singer/actress), etc]

Type: Coily / Subtype 4abcIf the natural hair’s primary pattern characteristic is more wiry [mesh, watch springs, crinkles or squiggles] in character it is coily. In contrast to the more uniform curled nature of ‘curly’ hair, coily hair is distinctly more non-uniform in nature, popping away from the head in a manner most similar to a [broken] watch spring that suddenly pops or springs out. And because of the wiry nature of coily hair, water tends to bead off of coily hair more easily. When dry, coily hair typically has a triangle formation or circular formation varying with texture. Coily hair that is very fine or squiggly or stretches in the manner of a curlier hair type when wet despite thickness or texture is 4a. Also, depending on texture- 4a and 4b hair can more easily be manipulated [without chemicals—texturizers, perms or silkeners] to take on a wide range of looks, from 3cd-ish type curled appearance to a full 4b type appearance as desired. Coily hair that has a pyramid-like, triangular hang formation with length, little to no stretch, but experiences noticeable shrinkage when wet is 4b. Coily hair that grows in decidedly circular, outwardly direction, and/or sometimes forms a distinctive ‘z’-type crooked wire pattern to crinkled look with variable shrinkage is 4c. As coily 4b-4c hair expands, it may sometimes take on a slightly wedge-like spongy appearance. [Coily Hair Examples: Bob Ross (muralist), Tanika Ray (actress) Erika ‘Nik’ Pace (model), Carlito ‘Caribbean Cool’ Colon, Jr. (pro wrestler), Ami Brabson (actress), Nadia Turner (singer), Measha Brueggergosman (opera singer), Alex Desert (actor), India Arie (singer), Gary Dourdan (actor), Harold Perrineau (actor), Lenny Kravitz (singer) ]

Type: Cottony / Subtype 5abcSignature cottony hair is, as its name implies very soft, cloud-like, cottony in both appearance and texture. 5a cottony hair displays, either a typical ball of cotton appearance that is the norm or fluffy, sometimes fuzzy cloud-like texture that is reminiscent of soft fluffy down [sometimes called ‘Angel’ hair] and will usually triangulate downward with great length. Although cottony 5b hair is equally ‘fluffy’, it tends to be of a denser cotton candy-like texture. And at its thickest, 5c cottony hair can be quite thick and may have a more yarn-like somewhat lamb’s wooly-to-cauliflower look and feel. In general, cottony hair has fluff and a lightness of form or ‘shape’ at any length, and is typically very billowy in nature. Unlike other hair types,when dry, cottony hair appears to float, rise or lean naturally away from the head, hence, it’s fluffy appearance. Very thick, dense cottony hair can sometimes take on a slightly more wooly-to-sponge-like appearance. Depending on texture and/or thickness, cottony hair types have greatly variable stretch or shrinkage when wet. [Cottony Hair Examples: Leela James (singer), Solomon Eversol (actor-X-files), Arthur Ashe (tennis ace), Malik Cooper (actor-MTV/RW), Althea Gibson (tennis ace), Sophia Pasquis (actress-MTV/RR) ].

Type: Spongy / Subtype 6abThe densest of all hair types, spongy hair also does not ‘lie’ flat, nor does it spring or bounce in the manner of a curl, but neither does it usually ‘triangulate’ downwards or display coilishness in the manner of 4a or 4b coily hair. And, distinguishes itself from all hair types in that it is neither billowy nor fluffy. Spongy hair is comprised of very densely compacted strands resulting in a wedge-like spongy appearance. In true to form, dry spongy hairs either lend themselves to a, 6a, eraser-like compact appearance, or, as in cases of exceptional thickness, a, 6b, jump out at you like ‘Heat Miser’ [as in Dr. Seuss] look. Characteristically spongy hair does not typically stretch when wet, has greatly variable shrinkage and is capable of standing stiffly erect in any direction regardless of length, (Walker).[Spongy Hair Examples: Antonia ‘Bahamadia’ Reed (musician), Steve Harvey (actor), Eddie Griffin (actor), Christopher ‘Kid’ Reid (musician), Kelly Perine (actor), Macy Gray (singer), Don King (sports promoter), Ester Rolle (actress)]. --------------------

Common Hair Sub-characteristics Occurring Across and/or Between TypesN: Normal, O: Oily, D: Dry, Silky, Satiny, Cottony, Fine, Medium, Coarse Following the establishment of hair’s type and/or subtype, further evaluation of hair’s texture relates to assessing whether the hair is best described as Normal, Dry or Oily, and/or has Silky, Satiny or Cottony underlying characteristics as well. Either of which will significantly impact hair care maintenance and product selection. As whether your hair is Normal, Oily or Dry, fine, Medium or Coarse, etc. will determine what kind of core ingredients to look for in your cleansers, conditioners, stylers and daily grooming products..

N: Normal-Neither dry, nor oily, normal hair falls into the great divide between hair that is oily and hair that is dry. Most people with normal hair find that products formulated specifically for normal hair types, or that are appropriate for their daily hair needs will suffice.O: Oily- Oily hair is hair that looks and/or feels oilier than other sub-textures as a result of having greater oils production and/or distribution throughout the hair and scalp. Oily hair requires clarifying more often than other hair types to alleviate oils or product buildup. Most with oily hair find use of a gentle, clarifying treatments such as baking soda or aloe vera to be sufficient.D: Dry- Dry Hair is hair that is naturally dry to the touch and in appearance. Dry hair may range from somewhat dry to extra dry and may or may not display brittleness, also. Dry hair requires use of moisturizing products and regular use of a daily leave-in as well as weekly deep conditioning treatments formulated specifically for dry to extra-dry (or dry, brittle) hair types. Silky- Silky soft to the touch, and is usually Normal to Oily.Satiny- Soft hair, somewhere between silky and cottony that is usually Normal to Dry.Cottony- Typically displays one or more ‘fluff’ hair characteristics,can be very soft to the touch, and is usually, Normal to (very) Dry. Fine- Hair that is baby soft to the touch in texture and typically will range from very thin to medium thickness.Medium- Hair that is not coarse to the touch, but is not quite as soft as fine hair, and is usually medium-thick to thick.Coarse- Hair that is somewhat stiff or straw-like to the touch in texture.