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A drawstring flange and ribbed storm cuffs keep out the drafts. wool interlining ward off chills, and a built-in wind block keeps you toasty warm. A detachable hood and hen the wind blows right through your coat, or drafts enter at the hem and cuffs and carry your body heat right out through the neck, it's time to think about how to add warmth. Don't add so much batting or insulation that your coat gets too heavy or uncomfortable. What you need are lightweight solutions. There are different ways to build warmth into a coat. You can add an interlining between the coat and the lining to hold in body heat, use design elements that block the wind from running up your sleeves or down your back, and add a hood to keep you dry and protected. Here's how I go about selecting a coat pattern for adaptability, fitting a muslin for comfort and insulation, and using design and construction techniques to build in lightweight warmth. Make a muslin to check your fit It's a good idea to buy a pattern one size larger to allow enough room for the interlining. To illustrate my adaptation, I've chosen Vogue 2472, a straight coat pattern with raglan sleeves. When choosing a coat style, consider the amount of front overlap. For the most warmth, choose a double-breasted coat, one with a deep overlap, or an off-center closing. On a coat with a narrower overlap, use a two-way zipper or hidden buttons to lock in warmth. The two-way zipper opens from both the top and bottom to enable comfortable sitting-especially important on longer coats. Hidden buttons require several extra layers of fabric for the concealed placket-these layers also retain heat. Make a muslin of your new pattern and try it on over a sweater or jacket to make sure the coat fits loosely enough to maintain a layer of air for insulation. A coat that fits too tightly won't keep you warm. This is the best time to make fitting adjustments. Be sure to test the fit in the arms, shoulders, and across the back for comfortable driving and reaching. Correct the hem length to enable you to walk up and down stairs and escalators, and step safely into buses and cars. Plan for wearing the coat with dresses and skirts, when the hem should cover your boot tops. Once you have adjusted the muslin and pattern, you're ready to consider fabric and other design details. Choose a fabric for wear as well as warmth I use alpaca for coats because it's lightweight and wears well. Wool or wool/mohair blends are other good fabrics to consider. I have also used continued � � � OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005 47