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The new year is just getting underway, but Milan is already well-prepared to welcome the world’s cosmetic industry in March, as In-Cosmetics takes place March 29-31 at the Fiera Rho exhibition center. According to show organizers, the Italian cosmetics and toiletries industry is booming. Worth a reported €9.1 billion, it is the third biggest in Europe, behind only France (€12.8 billion) and Germany (€10.5 billion).

With several weeks to go, the Milan edition of In-Cosmetics is already the largest ever show in terms of floor space. The exhibition will include more than 500 world-class suppliers of new and innovative cosmetic ingredients and services, as well as leading testing laboratories, software providers, industry associations and publishing houses.

Among the returning exhibitors are multinationals such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia. Their stands will be alongside smaller first-time exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the exhibition taking place on home soil.

“Last year’s show was the biggest event ever, so we certainly set the bar very high, but we’re extremely confident that we will match if not exceed expectations for the Milan show," said Lucy Gillam, exhibition director. "Our exhibitors are, as always, of the highest quality and the educational programme is certainly shaping up well. We have a really compelling lineup of speakers already confirmed to present on some of the hottest topics, which will no doubt provoke some lively debate among visitors.”

Buyers flocked to last year's In-Cosmetics exhibition.

The show’s educational program will offer a wide range of presentations, workshops and features to enhance visitors’ commercial, scientific and technical knowledge. Regulatory, scientific and innovation seminars will take place alongside formulation workshops and marketing trends presentations while the ever-popular In-Focus and the Innovation Zone will once again be key features on the exhibition floor.

More than an Exhibition

A program of regulatory seminars will provide delegates with thoughtful, educational insights into the movement of legislation including the current impact of future regulatory amendments in Europe and China. Dr. Annelie Struessman, technical director of CONUSBAT and experts from Beiersdorf and Henkel will lead the first session—Safety Assessment for Cosmetics in Europe—taking place on March 29, from 9:30am to 1:30pm. The seminar will outline the challenges and legal requirements for safety assessment and provide practical guidelines for the design, preparation and maintenance of Product Information Files (PIF) and Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSRs).

China is also a key issue on the regulatory agenda of cosmetics companies today. Last summer, the SFDA published several guidelines and measures in a move to reorganise the supervision of cosmetic products in the country. Dr. Alain Khaiat, president, Seers Consulting and vice president of the ASEAN Cosmetic Association, and a panel of key industry experts, will aim to shed some light on this new legislative framework during the Chinese Cosmetic Regulations seminar on March 29 from 2:30 to 6pm.

Fashion takes a back seat to fragrance (and cosmetics) in Milan in March.

There will be a series of scientific seminars at this year’s show delving into two key issues: skin aging and biotechnologies. The seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in the above areas.

More specifically, on March 30, from 9:30am to 1:30pm,Skin aging – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin aging. The most recent methods to measure and quantify aging skin and the effects of anti-aging treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes. Other areas set to be covered include optimal dermal delivery for anti-aging actives and the latest innovation in actives and formulation.

Among those presenting will be Luigi Rigano from Studio Rigano, Anthony Rawlings from AVR Consulting, Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the San Gallicano Dermatological Institute in Italy, Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions and Stefano Manfredini from the Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche at the University of Ferrara, Italy.

Also on March 30, from 2-6pm, nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics will delve into the practical applications and opportunities as well as the safety of cosmetic nano-formulations. Consumer perception and industry response to the techniques will be examined along with the regulatory framework in Europe. Finally, the seminar will take a look at whether biotechnology represents an alternative to animal model testing.

The Formulation Workshops promise to provide lively, interactive and controversial insights into the challenges and issues high up on the formulators’ radar. Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions will present on From Active Ingredient to Active Formulation in 5 Simple Steps [March 29, 2-6pm].Delegates attending the workshop will be given guidance on how to select the best actives for optimum skin delivery, identify the size of the delivery gap from the required minimum effective concentration and select the most appropriate skin delivery system. Attendees will also learn how to design the right formulation to deliver the actives and perform a clinical trial to assess the product’s efficacy.

Judi Beerling from Organic Monitor will present Emulsifiers & Surfactants: The Natural Options [March 31, 9:30am-1pm]. The new workshop will act as a practical guide for companies looking to formulate natural and organic personal care products with alternatives to synthetic emulsifiers and surfactants. With a growing number of companies trying to avoid SLS/SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural & organic alternatives. However, what options are available? What are the associated technical and formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective, and what are the related safety issues?

The In-Focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier Beraca, attracts more than two-thirds of In-Cosmetics visitors each year.With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging.Showcasing a range of innovative eco-designed product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry.

As ever, this year’s Innovation Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be full of innovation and inspiration, with the key theme in the end-product section being anti-ageing. At In-Cosmetics 2011, visitors will be able to discover the latest finished products on the market from Europe, Asia, U.S. and Latin America, sourced by Mintel’s team of beauty trend spotters.

In addition, the feature will also house some of the latest ingredient launches from exhibitors, enabling visitors to quickly identify the very latest launches and provide ideas for their next NPD or marketing campaign.

A wealth of facts and figures, case studies and advice will be presented at the highly popular Marketing Trends Presentations at the show this year. Conducted by renowned international market research companies, brands and consultancies, the sessions are aimed at sparking off new marketing ideas for companies keen to set themselves apart from the competition.

Sustainability, green chemistry and ethical sourcing will feature prominently in the programme, with two roundtables and a presentation from Organic Monitor already confirmed. Kline and Euromonitor International will reveal the latest ingredients and beauty trends while the founders of niche brands Bulldog and Davina Peace will share their secrets for success in live interviews. How cosmetics companies can draw inspiration from other industries such as professional hair care and cosmetic surgery as well as changes in online and offline shopping behavior will also be among the subjects discussed.

Il Duomo in Milan.

Innovation seminars provide an opportunity for suppliers to highlight the very latest ingredients and formulation techniques they are currently pioneering.Traditionally extremely popular with visitors, the seminars last 30 minutes and provide a platform for companies to share their information and knowledge with a highly captive audience. Visitors can choose from 44 sessions covering a wide variety of topics including the latest developments in anti-ageing treatments, nature based emulsifiers and ethically sourced ingredients.

A new online community tool—CONNECT—will also be introduced for the Milan show. It provides exhibitors and pre-registered visitors with a diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated email system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest, to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show.

"There’s certainly a real buzz surrounding the 2011 event," concluded Gillam. "All the ingredients are there for another record-breaking event, so we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure this is once again, a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.”