12 replies so far

I usually use SW CAB Acrylic or NC lacquers with a conventional sprayer. Occassionally, I will brush the first coat or two for rapid build and reduced overspray. Fast work and slight thinning keeps things pretty uniform and without brush marks. Follow-on thined sprayed coats, ending with a final heavy misting of almost straight reducer makes for a uniform finish and even overall sheen. No experience with precat, but works well with the mentioned plain solvent lacquers.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

It’s a mixed bag really. Wood that moves a lot is a problem for most automotive clearcoats. Automotive clearcoats move very little (unless they’re designed with flex agents for things like plastic bumpers) and are fairly hard and brittle.

Now, that’s not to say you can’t use them. You just have to think more about the correct application for it… just like any other finish.

Also, automotive clearcoats are generally more expensive than those designed for wood (though some are very similar in composition).

Not a problem lunn. Like I said, auto clearcoat will work in some applications. Just like any other finish, they require some thought into the material you’re applying them to, purpose, wear, overall look, etc.

They are usually more expensive since they are formulated to work in a more harsh environment than most wood finishes.

I have used the old solvent acrylic auto clear coat on furniture with complete success. see the dest and dining table in My Projects for examples. No experience with the current auto clears, but I doubt the any wood moves more than the steel of the hood on a dark painted car under a summer sun, so I wouldn’t hesitate to use the current auto clears on furniture.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

I spray 4 coats switching patterns each time of application vertcal horizontal etc.sand in between and last coat real heavy.If that dont work thin it a little might help. gotta make sure your passes overlap each other no misses it willl show up when dry at a angle. hope any of that helps

Try a slower thinner. Slower is for higher temperature. These are old standbys in the automotive paint industry. I say old because lacquer has been nearly legislated out of existence in California. You can get it in quantity in certain places, and small quantities most places, because it is nonsense to force water-based repair on one fender of a car painted with lacquer. I have also wet-sanded large areas of wood in order to get the sheen and smoothness I wanted, if I had it too dry or overspray. Also, I do as has been mentioned- I run thinner through the gun to clean it and flow out dry spots at the same time.