Just got this 92 RS roller from SKULL. Car used to have a small block and a th350 with nitrous and run 8.60s. Car is complete minus the engine and trans. Has a 10 point cage, 31 spline 9" with 4.10s and a spool with drum brakes, BMR rear suspension and torque arm with relocation bracket, MT ET street radial 275s on 15 inch rims, Kirkey seats with pads, 2 4 point harnesses, Autometer gages, and a driveshaft. Here are some pics.

Chute mount

Shifter for sale

HOW I GOT IT HOME

Car was in Mt Airy MD, 74 miles away from my house in Waldorf MD. I have no truck or trailer, but I do have AAA plus with free 100 miles of towing, on my familys policy in CT.

AAA will not tow cars that are A. Not registered B. Race cars C. Not street legal (I fit all of the above).

I call AAA and say that I drove my 92 camaro from CT to MD and it just broke down at my friends house and I needed a tow to my relatives house in Waldorf, MD. She asks me whats wrong with it, I say I think there is an electrical problem because when I turn the key, nothing happens . She asks if I need a mechanic and I say no, Im pretty sure the pcm is gone. She says that I will need my registration and AAA card when the driver gets there. Flatbed shows up, guy starts backing into the driveway, but slows down and I can see him make a call on his phone. He gets out and says he just called AAA and he cant tow race cars, and asks if the car is legal. I had taken the front license plate off of my work truck and zip tied it to the rear of the Camaro. I say yes it is legal, I dove it here and now it wont start. By this point Jesse (SKULL) is trying not to bust out laughing. He takes a quick walk around it and goes "are you sure its legal? Its got a cage, let me see the registration". I say "it doesnt have a glove box so I dont have the registration, but those tags are up to date". He asks whats wrong with it, I say I think there is an electrical problem, nothing happens when I turn the key. He asks to take a look and I said "nah, the hood is a pain in the *** to open, I just want it towed." He grabs the chains, lays on the ground and crawls under to hook up the chains, and must have noticed there is no engine or trans. By this point Jesse has the biggest smile on his face and neither of us can believe this is working, but I keep a stone cold face and keep up the "yea it ran great, but its old and the motor is probably gone". After a little more BS we take off, and he delivers it to my house.

QUESTIONS:

1. It has a 9" with stock 3rd gen width 2 inches narrower per side than 4th gen, how large of spacers are safe to run at the track or on the street, with my HP and weight, (~300 wheel hp, 3000 lb race weight) I wanna run my salad shooters because it looks stock and unsuspecting, but IF I HAVE TO, I will run the 275s that are on it. OR if someone wants to trade their stock width 9" Ill do that.

*edit* I see on thirdgen.org that ALOT of people are running 2 inch spacers, anybody have any horror stories about this?

2. Will the 3rd gen cage fit a 4th gen? I know the floorpans are the same from the rear bumper to the firewall, my friend wants the cage for his 00 trans am

3. How hard is it to convert 3rd gen drums to 4th gen disks?

4. Can its manual brakes or manual rack be used on a 4th gen?

I plan on putting the 9" and BMR rear suspension stuff in my car, with the chromoly 9" driveshaft I have sitting in the garage, and parting out the rest of the car. I will post up a FOR SALE thread with parts and prices as soon as I start ripping it apart, but PM me with anything you guys want.

take a real good look at that 9", it looks like a home-brew job. If it did run 8.60's in the quarter, i'd bet it's bent. I would put money on those being stock ford drums on the back. double check the bolt pattern as well. unless it's been re-drilled it will probably be 5x4.5

the floorpans are different between 4th gens and 3rd gens, some guys have used 4th gen cages in a 3rd gen. you would have to take some measurements to get a better idea.

overall it looks like a pretty solid car, I'd probably put it back together and run it as is with for-sale signs in it and spend that money on the parts that you want for your car.

Thanks for the replys. I'll take a closer look at the 9" as soon as I drop it out, but it looks to be done properly with the torque arm, lcas, phb and springs in the stock locations. Billet Wheel Adapters makes billet aluminum spacers and from reading on thirdgen.org it seems that there are tons of people running 2 inch spacers with no issues. Billet Wheel Adapters also makes spacers to convert the ford 5x4.5 to the chevy 5x4.75 if it turns out to be ford axles like Brando says.

Im still torn on whether or not to sell the black wheels with the MT ET street radials or my salad shooters with ET streets. Ive never used the radials before, anybody every try both? Which do you prefer? Im planning on 6000 rpm clutch dumps at the line and am thinking with only 300hp and a stock clutch the radials should be enough.

Got my 10 bolt put under the parts car, and got the 9" out and ready to go in my car. Just need to sell the torque arm relocation bracket for the 3rd gen and buy one for a 4th gen. Now that the rear is out I dont think it is a homebrew job, looks pretty well put together.

Did manage to have my 10 bolt slip off of the jack and crush my fingers between the sway bar and the teeth of the jack when I was trying to yank on the rear to pull the torque arm out of its bushing on the transmission. Was lucky my friend was there to help lift the rear off of my fingers. Broke my finger and lots blood.

Sold the roller last night, kept the 275s on the rims, both Kirkeys with 1 5 point harness and 1 seat bracket, the whole 9", the rear suspension which included the adjustable BMR torque arm, double adjustable with spherical rod ends LCAs, and a double adjustable PHB, the driveshaft made for a TH350 and a 9", and the torque arm relocation bracket made for a 3rd gen with a TH400.

I need to sell the relocation bracket and get one for a 4th gen with a M6 in order to finally finish putting the rear in my car, because I didnt realize that the front mount for the torque arm was so much different on a 3rd gen to a 4th gen.

Im also looking to sell the Kirkeys, driveshaft, and my salad shooters with 26x10.5 ET streets on them. If anyone is interested let me know.

I already sold the whole car, didnt part it out. Just put my stock 3.42 10 bolt under it with some junk stock LCAs and PHB and TA just so the guy could roll it on a trailer. I also already sold the Kirkeys.

Only pieces I still have left for sale are the MT ET street radials on those black rims, 275/60/15s, a driveshaft for a 3rd gen with a small block th350 and a 9", and a BMR torque arm relocation mount for a 3rd gen with a TH400 in hammertone powdercoat.

The 9" is under my car, I am using 2" wheel adapters to change the ford 5x4.5 bolt pattern and a 2 inch narrowed per side rear to fit my stock 5x4.75 salad shooters. I am using ARP studs. Last thing needed is to hook up and bleed the brakes, put in the driveshaft, and refill the tranny with fluid, then I get to test it out!

Finally got the car driving again. Picked up a 1310 to 1350 conversion U joint from Speed Unlimited. Here is a pic of the driveshaft that came with the 92 which has a 1310 U joint and what the yolk on the 9" has, the stock LT1 driveshaft, and the 1350 U joint on my chromoly 3.5 inch driveshaft from right to left.

Dont have a picture of the new U joint.

I went to put my street tires on salad shooters back on with the 2 inch 5x4.5 to 5x4.75 wheel adapter and the rear is STILL too narrow and the passenger side was rubbing, so I had to pick up 5/16" wheel spacers too. Was able to finally drive it out of the garage

Took it around the block, and you can really feel the spool when trying to make that tight turn backing out of the driveway. I took the exhaust off in the name of weight reduction so it is open Y pipe now so I couldnt hammer down on it in my neighborhood and test the 4.10s and spool. When I take a hard turn I can hear the passenger side still hit even with the spacer, and the driver side has about 1/2 inch of clearance without a spacer, so I need to adjust my PHB or get a new one because the single adjustable lakewood that is on there looks to have seen better days.

I hate the idea of using spacers, especially on top of the billet aluminum wheel adapter.

I still have the black STEEL heavy as **** ford lug pattern 15" wheels that came with the 92 with the correct backspacing for my car that I could go back to and pick up some 15" 26" ET streets and sell my salad shooters with 26x10.5s, but after all the weight reduction Ive done, putting that much rotating mass on the rear seems like a huge step backwards. Anybody know how much this would cost me in mph and ET over aluminum?

I think Ive decided to sell my nitrous kit and get a new clutch disk and roller rockers and springs. With just 300-320rwhp and 3000lb race weight I should be OK with the adapters and 5/16" wheel spacers and salad shooters, and bias ply tires. Any objections?

Long term I know I should get strange axles with GM lug pattern, and when I do that I will do a disk brake conversion so I can use my E brake again, and get new wheels with the proper backspacing, but this summer Im low on cash with our wedding coming up, so I just want to enjoy it until the funds are back.

Before I can take it to MIR and see results, I still need my new pin on fiberglass hood to get here, mount my race battery on the passenger side frame rail where the heater box used to be, and remove the rear crash support. SO CLOSE!

Looked at it tonight, took a BFH to the inner fender on the passenger side and fixed the rubbing problem. Went and measured the backspacing on the rims that came with the rear and they are 16x8 with 4 inch backspacing, my salad shooters are 16x8 with 6.875" backspacing. This means I need to make up 2.875" to get the wheels to sit stock. The stock rear backspacing on 3rd gen Camaros was 5.25" according to this site:

Which means that my rear is narrowed more than I thought, 1.25" more. I already have the 2 inch wheel adapters on it so my wheels sit 0.875" to far in, which explains why it looks so ******* goofy from the rear. The wheels sit 2.5 inches inside the farthest part of the outer fender, if you hang a string down from the top of the fender and measure from the string to the rim.

My Lakewood single adjustable poly ended PHB is compressed as far as it goes, yet Im still about 1/4 of an inch to far to the passenger side. My PHB is 42.75 inches long right now from bolt to bolt. Anyone know of any that can go shorter? I am looking at the Founders rod ended double adjustable one.

Still debating using the steel 15x8s that came with it and selling my salad shooters with Et streets and picking up another set of 15 inch 26x10.5 et streets. Just dont like the idea of taking that weight penalty.

Guess Ill just have to wait until I find some 4.75" backspaced 3rd gen 16x8 inch wheels, anyone have any they wanna get rid of?

With AAA grab the driver right of the bat and tell him he has a nice tip coming. I had my chevelle with no front clip towed home 275, I payed I think 300 for the 75 miles past 200 and tipped him 100 to keep his mouth shut. Just had my TA towed 75 miles home for free and tipped him 50 for doing it. Lots of the guys are gears heads and dont car but 50 tip makes it nice deal for them
Jay

__________________ 1972 Chevelle 408/T56 monster, tick, 4.11 12 bolt and on and on

AAA guys are normaly cool, this is the second time Ive used them for something they normally wouldnt do, but a $20 tip goes a long way.

I am selling my nitrous kit and decided upgrading the valvetrain is much smarter than spraying. Im pretty sure my valvesprings are shot and Im losing some power by not controlling my valves well enough. Here is a link, support my build! Buy my ****!

Hoping with these parts, the 9" with 4.10s, and the extra weight reduction I did to be about 3000lb race weight, and hit very very very low 12s. When I was 3225lb race weight, before my EWP and CHRIS1313 ram air I did 12.53 at 110.33 with a 1.84 60' babying the 10 bolt. With a hard launch on the 9", I dont think 12.0x is unattainable.