Diminutive in name but not in flavor, this hole-in-the-shopping-mall eatery is difficult to find. Masala and korma dishes are well-balanced, the shellfish in the tangy shrimp vindaloo is fresh, and tandoori chicken is actually juicy, but you'll take your chances with the goat. Choose from ten types of bread -- the keema naan (stuffed with lamb) is robust -- and more than 15 vegetarian dishes. And don't assume the spices will be dumbed-down for American palates: If you ask for it hot, these folks will take you at your word. The superb gulab jamun for dessert makes a trip to Krispy Kreme "hole-y" unnecessary.

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By now it's a fact of culinary life that South Florida restaurants open in strip malls. None of us really minds anymore. Although locating an eatery in a recessed shopping plaza can be somewhat frustrating when your stomach is growl...