ELLE DECOR Goes to Palm Beach

This beloved resort town offers a fresh take on seaside chic

Like many a well-heeled doyenne of a certain age in need of a little touch-up, Worth Avenue, Palm Beach's main commercial thoroughfare and an international shopping destination, has received a striking face-lift. The $15.8 million streetscape-improvement project includes new Tabby seashell-embedded concrete sidewalks, a new plaza with fountains, a coquina-clad clock tower that's modeled after a domed spire on the landmark Addison Mizner–designed Everglades Club three blocks west, a wall garden, and the return of tall coconut palms, originally the street's tree of choice. "We wanted everything to look as if it had always been there," notes Jorge Sanchez, a principal of the local landscape-architecture firm Sanchez & Maddux, who worked on the overhaul. But the suave Sanchez points out that a certain restraint was required so as not to produce an antiseptic, Disneyesque environment. "That wouldn't be right here."

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"It is just wonderful to see Worth Avenue in such a glorious state," says Jane Holzer, the former Warhol superstar, art collector, and real-estate tycoon. Holzer, one of the group of Worth Avenue property owners that lobbied for the redo and funded the renovation, is an unabashed cheerleader for the island, and Worth Avenue in particular. "Palm Beach is such a great place, and its star street now looks the part—as it should."

The revitalization of Worth Avenue, emblematic of a new energy in Palm Beach, was completed on a rapid-fire schedule over the summer and early fall, when many residents are off in Long Island, Aspen, Nantucket, or the South of France—just in time not only for the start of high season, which begins in November and extends until April, but also to usher in the resort town's centennial in 2011.

The once-rustic little barrier-island town was originally conceived by railroad baron and ­real-estate titan Henry Flagler in the late 19th century. But it was given its distinctive architectural character largely through the efforts of sewing-machine scion Paris Singer and the larger-than-life, monkey-toting architect Mizner, whose Spanish-inflected glamour culminated in the grandeur of Joseph Urban's 1923 design for the legendary Mar-a-Lago.

The town was incorporated in 1911, a move said to be motivated by fears among the small and elite population that annexation by the neighboring burg across Lake Worth, West Palm Beach, the county seat, could prove disastrous to their pocketbooks. Over the past century, Palm Beach has transformed itself into more than a watering hole for the rich and infamous and has moved on from its mid-to-late-20th-century image as a posh retirement home. A younger, albeit conservative, crowd has forgone the usual move to northeastern cities, deciding to raise families in what they see as a most pleasant, almost supercharged small-town environment that offers plenty of cultural, educational, and entertainment opportunities. With a nearby airport that remains relatively uncrowded even on major holidays, spontaneous getaways to New York, Washington, D.C., or Boston for a quick urban fix aren't difficult.

Decorator Celerie Kemble, who grew up in Palm Beach and lives in Manhattan, takes frequent breaks—for work and pleasure—to the island throughout the year. "My happiest times have been here," Kemble says, "taking sunset walks on the Lake Trail, spending the day reading in bed during tremendous summer rainstorms, reveling in the smell of salt on my children's skin after a dip in the ocean." She also enjoys a stroll down Worth Avenue, noting that one of her favorite places is Richters, an estate-jewelry shop: "It has great pieces that I never see anywhere else." Other Kemble haunts include C'est Si Bon, the gourmet grocer, for the best cheeses; Trousseau, a vintage-linen shop off Royal Poinciana Way; the Champs-Élysées Bakery for fresh-baked croissants; Michael R. McCarty's for a plate of chicken hash; and Green's Pharmacy's luncheonette for cinnamon toast in the morning with her children. She adds, "I can't think of a place in the world where I would rather spend time with my family—riding bikes, playing tennis, or feeding the fish at the north end inlet dock."

For Manhattan decorator Joanne de Guardiola, "It's the quiet elegance, gorgeous houses, hedge-lined streets, and the international mix of people that make Palm Beach the place to be." She enjoys boating on the Intracoastal Waterway and then heading out for dinner on the romantic terrace at Renato's or amid the bustling see-and-be-seen atmosphere at the Palm Beach Grill. She often stops in at F. S. Henemader to check out the antique shell creations. What makes her trips there even more frequent is the fact that the shop is next door to Hamburger Heaven, the closest thing to a diner in Palm Beach: "The homemade coconut cake is to die for."

Decorator and philanthropist Pauline Pitt hails from one of the island's founding families—her grandfather commissioned his Mizner-designed oceanfront mansion, Casa Amado, back in 1919—and has been based here for the past 20 years. Pitt likes the small-town feel and the colorful array of local characters, though she sees the "old Palm Beach" gradually disappearing. "Change is inevitable," she acknowledges.

Interior designer and decorative-arts adviser Michael Formica finds nearly all those changes to be for the better. "Palm Beach isn't getting older, it's getting better—and younger," he says. "What I adore about it, besides the lovely winter weather, is the Dover sole at Chez Jean Pierre, the surfing beaches on the north end, Major Alley—a unique taste of Bermuda in Florida—and the modernist '400' building designed by Edward Durell Stone." And Formica never tires of taking in the regal tree-lined vista of Royal Palm Way, especially during the holiday season, when the trunks are wrapped in glittering lights.

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Designer Jonathan Adler appreciates the compactness of Palm Beach (the town is just 16 miles from north to south and about a half mile across at its widest point) and the fact that "every view here is more archetypal than one could have ever imagined." He is also a huge fan of the many dealers along West Palm Beach's South Dixie Highway: "The finds there are incredible. It's where all the socialites' castoffs end up." It's not all work for Adler, however. "There's this great beach. People forget that Palm Beach has beaches, which are gorgeous and empty. It's heaven."

Scott Snyder, an interior decorator who has been living and working in Palm Beach for the past 30 years, likens it to "being a member of a very exclusive club. I spend a great deal of time in New York, but when I reach the crest of the bridge that takes me to my home and office in historic Phipps Plaza, I breathe a bit easier." He has seen the shops along Dixie Highway, once a motley group of vintage dealers, become "a mecca for interior designers worldwide. I saw a fabulous French desk in Galerie Chanel on the Quai Voltaire in Paris a few months ago. It had been acquired on Dixie Highway, was sent home to France, and then was sold a week later to a client who was shipping it to Miami. Go figure!"

For more than half a century, cosmetics executive, photographer, and breast cancer research advocate Evelyn Lauder has had a fondness for the island. "It's where Leonard and I got engaged," she says, referring to her husband. She's especially drawn to the natural, though highly manicured, subtropical surroundings. "There is a healing quality to the air and the light, to spending time amid the greenery and taking walks on a beautiful beach," Lauder says, which she feels makes Palm Beach conducive to a healthier lifestyle. "That wasn't always the case," she adds, recalling the days when residents were truly the idle rich. "People seem to be much deeper and more active now," Lauder observes. "It's not such a limited place anymore."

Delve into the glamorous past. From November to May, James Ponce, official historian for the Chamber of Commerce, conducts free walking tours of historic Worth Avenue and its charming and architecturally significant "vias" (659-6909; worth-avenue.com).

Come to the cabaret. Catch an act at the Colony hotel's Royal Room. Scheduled performers include Ann Hampton Callaway and Christine Ebersole (655-5430; thecolonypalmbeach.com).

Go green. You may never get behind the ficus hedges surrounding the private estates, but don't miss several public gardens and parks. Check out the revamped Philip Hulitar Sculpture Garden (655-7227; fourarts.org), the historic Cluett Memorial Garden (655-4554; bbts.org), and the Preservation Foundation's Pan's Garden of native Florida species (832-0731; palmbeachpreservation.org).

Head to the shore. The five-mile Lake Trail hugs the eastern shore of Lake Worth. Stroll, run, or bike it to catch a peek of lakefront homes, including the former digs of Bernie Madoff; the landmarked Duck's Nest; and a few modernist gems, including one by Richard Meier.

Hang ten. The break at Reef Road on the island's north end is a prime destination for surfers. Rick Wentley offers short- or longboard lessons (832-9335).

Unearth a treasure. Vintage aficionados head to the Consignment District, the area around the intersection of Sunset Avenue and N. County Road, which contains a plethora of shops carrying designer duds and handbags, fine linens, antiques, midcentury finds, and bibelots.

WHAT TO SEE

The Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, 1 Whitehall Way, 655-2833; flaglermuseum.us: This grand Gilded Age mansion with more than 75 rooms, a Carrère & Hastings design, was built by Palm Beach's founding father in 1902.

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The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach, 311 Peruvian Ave., 832-0731; palmbeachpreservation.org: At its handsome quarters, this private club sponsors lectures, screenings, concerts, and exhibitions that are open to the public.

The Society of the Four Arts, 2 Four Arts Plaza, 655-7227; fourarts.org: Founded in 1936, this is the cultural hub of the island, with a garden and library open year-round.

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WHERE TO STAY

The Brazilian Court, 301 Australian Ave., 655-7740; thebraziliancourt.com: An intimate in-town hotel with a tropical vibe. In addition to the 70 rooms and suites, it has a Frédéric Fekkai Salon & Spa and a Café Boulud.

The Breakers, 1 S. County Rd., 655-6611; thebreakers.com: The island's grande dame oceanfront resort, located on 140 acres in the center of town, with golf, tennis, beach club, shopping arcade, and full-service spa.

The Chesterfield, 363 Cocoanut Row, 659-5800; chesterfieldpb.com: There's a veddy British ambience, with a cigar room and high-tea service, at this mainstay with 52 rooms and suites.

The Colony, 155 Hammon Ave., 655-5430; thecolonypalmbeach.com: Just a block from Worth Avenue, it has a lively bar, poolside dining, and a top-floor suite that was the seasonal home of the late Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Four Seasons Resort, 2800 S. Ocean Blvd., 582-2800; fourseasons.com/palmbeach: Located on the southern end of town, this standout has a delightfully low-key, discreet, and yet sumptuous atmosphere, a spacious new spa, and an excellent alfresco café.

Barzina, 66 Via Mizner, 833-5834: An international array of furniture, home goods, and fashions at a favored source for many of the island's decorators.

Gypsy, 450 S. County Rd., 832-1333; gypsyusa.com: This boutique is the place where island fashion plates head for edgier and of-the-moment pieces by Isabel Marant, Rick Owens, Givenchy, Balmain, Thakoon, and others.