1 Answer

Check your fuses and see if they are blown. Check your in line fuse to your battery also. If this is not it try putting the amplifier in someone's existing and working system to see if it is your wiring. If this is the case redo try redoing your wire. If this does not work then you will need to send it in to the company that manufactures it for help. Please let me know if these work.

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You replace parts as part of your preventativemaintenance program,not to solve a problemWhen working on a problem only component testingwill find the issuesYou need to check for fuel pressure at the motor with a gaugeYou check spark with a test plug you buy,not ground a plugor wire on the vehicleYou can check for compression or cylinder leak downto test some mechanical issuesI would assume ALL Fuse & links have been checked,aswell as battery voltage 12.6 v or more & cables etcThe ignition switch could be bad,turns starter but not allthe internal contacts are good

A miss or mist? If it is mist, possibly radiator hose, heater hose, oil sending unit. What kind of fluid is it? If it is a miss then first thing would be change the spark plugs if they haven't been changed in a while. If it keeps missing after that try pulling the spark plug wires one at a time with some spark plug wire pliers. If you pull one and it doesn't make a difference then that is the cylinder that isn't working. Put a spark plug in that wire and see if it is firing by grounding the base of spark plug and watching it. If it doesn't fire first try putting on a spark plug wire, if that doesn't fix it, you must have a bad coil pack. If you have spark when doing the test above then maybe an injector that isn't working. Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

The 3E133 (or similar) Infra-Red Heater with correct voltage to the circuit board should produce a spark at the spark ignitor rod within a few seconds of having power applied. If it doesn't, one of the following could be the problem:1. circuit board (ignition controller) is bad2. The gap between the spark ignitor rod and the middle rod (ground) is incorrect. It should be between 1/8" & 3/16"3. There is not a good ground. This could be due to rust or a loose connection at any point between the equipment ground and the spark ignitor rod, including the ignitor mounting screws.4. The spark ignitor rod or its orange wire is grounded, such as touching metal and thus "short circuiting" rather than allowing the spark ignitor rod to be 1/8" from "ground".That's all I can think of that would cause NOTHING to happen.

The 3E133 (or similar) Infra-Red Heater with correct voltage to the circuit board should produce a spark at the spark ignitor rod within a few seconds of having power applied. If it doesn't, one of the following could be the problem: (1. circuit board (ignition controller) is bad. (2. The gap between the spark ignitor rod and the middle rod (ground) is incorrect. It should be between 1/8" & 3/16". (3. There is not a good ground. This could be due to rust or a loose connection at any point between the equipment ground and the spark ignitor rod, including the ignitor mounting screws. (4. The spark ignitor rod or its orange wire is grounded, such as touching metal and thus "short circuiting" rather than allowing the spark ignitor rod to be 1/8" from "ground". That's all I can think of that would cause NOTHING to happen.

Under the battery tray is a common ground point. It'll have several black wires going to a connector that is bolted to the frame. Remove this bolt, clean the area up, and bolt it back in place. If the speedometer doesn't work after this, then you probably need a vehicle speed sensor VSS.

This is a rather common problem. The red light indicates it is not correctly getting power.

So trace your power wire from the battery--> check the fuse on the wire if there is one---> to your amp. If that is all in working order next move onto the ground wire.

Make sure it is sparking on the surface that you have it grounded at. If it does not spark when you touch the ground wire against that surface then you are not correctly grounded. It should be bare metal, something connected to the cars frame.

Try this and post back if you still need additional help. Thank you for choosing Fixya!

You must have inline fuses at the point where the wire taps off of the power source. If you're tapping off a wire that has no fuse (like the starter solenoid), you must insert a fuse.

When making the connection to the amp, there will be a spark initially. If you hold it on for a second, pull it off and then touch it again, there should be little to no spark because the capacitors in the amplifier would have charged when you made the initial contact. If there is an intense spark each time you touch it and the amp is not on (no remote voltage applied), the amp may be defective.