Friday, November 28, 2014

Once
a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights
on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed
that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly
different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting
world.You can find Yvette hereon Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere
I look, I always seem to be searching for knitting inspiration. When I
take walks or when I run, I look at what others are wearing. Once I
found inspiration in the fabric of a restaurant chair, so I drew the motif
on a napkin.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Fair
Isle Knitting is definitely my absolute favorite technique. It’s fast
since it’s only stockinette but I just love to see the pattern emerge. Slipped stitch techniques comes in a close second. I just learned Brioche
and I love it.

You currently specialize in patterns for accessories. Do you have any plans to change your design focus?

Not
in the near future. Like a lot of knitters, I still work a 40 hours a week
job to support myself, so designing small accessories is what works
best in the limited time that I have. Later when I have more free time,
I’d love to try my hand at designing bigger pieces.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I love looking at other designers' work.I’m amazed at all the talent and creativity I see out there.Sometimes I buy a pattern just to read it and to understand how the piece is constructed.Before
releasing a pattern I try to make sure something identical is not
already out there and looking at other designers' work is how I achieve
that.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

I
am a dumb knitter. If there is any way to misinterpret or miscount, I
do it. This probably explains why I love charted patterns. I love a
detailed pattern. I don’t expect a pattern to spell out every technique,
just to tell me where I can find that technique all spelled out. When I
buy a detailed dumbed down pattern with info that I don’t need, I just
skip it. I’d rather buy an over detailed pattern than an under
detailed one. I don’t have a lot of time for knitting and there is
nothing I hate more than having to frog twelve hours of knitting because
of some missing pattern info. That said, I try to make my patterns
clear and just detailed enough so that an average knitter can
reproduce the pattern. I love seeing my designs made by others and the
only way others can make them is if they understand my patterns.

I
just put out my patterns on Ravelry. The majority of my patterns are
free. I only designed those because I did not find an already published
pattern. Once I have a few more paying patterns out there, I’ll start
looking for some way to publicize them.

Do you use a tech editor?

Not yet but I plan to in the future.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

Knitting is what keeps me sane. It also helps that my boys are all grown up and that gives me a few more hours a week to knit.

I
take it and then move on. Criticism hurts - we all want approval but we
all make mistakes. When I make one, I apologize and try not to repeat
it. Criticism can also be very useful - I love everyone’s input. I’ve
had some great suggestions from others, especially testers.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I’m nowhere near being able to support myself. Designing is still a part-time process.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Go ahead, keep knitting and designing. Don’t be afraid to ask for help - knitters are generous by nature.

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

In August I wrote this post about how many designers appear in Ravelry. In it I mentioned a shift in the responses when I send out a invitation to do an interview. After a conversation with one of my peers about specific designers moving into other careers I looked back at my interview series. While many of those interviewees are either still active or in some cases retired due to age or the retirement of spouses, some have definitely left the industry.

I sent out six emails to designer interviewees (mainly from 2010). I purposely chose ones that I could find no recent pattern releases for. My note read: I did a interview with you in 2010. Are you still
actively designing? The reason I ask is I'm becoming aware of many
designers who are dropping out of the knitting world. I'm working on a
post on the topic. If you have changed your career focus and feel
comfortable sharing a few of the details I'd love to hear about it.

I got two responses. Only one of the six is still actively designing. She had a name change that I was unaware of which is why I couldn't find recent patterns.

The other one did give me a full answer, which I'm sharing with her permission in an anonymous way by changing the identifying details. She said, "I would say that for me, it was a couple of factors: My husband and I are both self-employed. His company suffered during the 2009 economic downturn and basically all the income that my company was
making went to keep us afloat. That left me no capital to invest back
into my business. I don't say that with any kind of resentment; it was just
what we had to do, and looking back, it gave me a good reason to get
myself out of designing, because I was getting terribly burnt out.

I probably could have kept designing and made enough money to get us
through the lean times, but I was getting tired of what I was seeing in
the industry. I was tired of all the flame wars about intellectual
property and knitters thinking they were entitled to do whatever they
wanted to with patterns, as if designers were somehow part of the lofty
1% and were making a financial killing off knitters. I was tired of rude
knitters expecting to get instant customer service at all hours of the
day and night. I was tired of traveling, and it has gotten terribly expensive over the
past decade. My kids were teenagers and getting ready to go off to
college. I felt like it was really a struggle to keep up a continuous
flow of creativity. In retrospect, it just seemed like a good time to
make a change.

Being burnt out, I was ready to do something else, so I went back to
school for a year and trained for an alternate career. I have a
wonderful, flexible job that I love. I started doing other crafts, and now I really just have no
desire to knit. My youngest child is a senior in high school this
year. We expect to have an empty nest next year and I am looking forward
to the free time to devote to things I WANT to do as opposed to things I
HAVE to do.

I think there is a tremendous amount of competition out there from women
who design knitwear with no intention of it being a business, and that
does make it harder for everyone else. I have to say that Ravelry is a
two-edged sword; it has done some wonderful things on the one hand and
on the other hand, it has really affected certain parts of the industry
rather negatively."

I was able to find one other designer's public posting about her career change in her Ravelry group. It is from Kristeen Griffin-Grimes. "Thank you all so much for doing this revitalization!!! As many of you know, my full time business (and then some) is French Girl Organics and; leading our Cuvée:Wine and Cuisine Tours in France.
I so appreciate everyone’s desire to keep French Girl alive and well
on Ravelry and I will direct inquiries that I receive to this
wonderful group! You all are the best…xoxo"

Monday, November 24, 2014

I was recently asked for my best recommendations for books on how to alter patterns for fit. It helps to get a good understanding of pattern drafting first. You don't need to draft from scratch but the knowledge of how to, makes the concepts of fit alterations fall into place much more quickly. My design-a-long series starts here for a simple overview.

I don't have a single book I can recommend because they all have such different approaches but these three are really good.

Shirley Paden Knitwear Design Workshop: A Comprehensive Guide to Handknits. This one has the most silhouettes and may be the most comprehensive.

Amy Herzog Knit to Flatter: The Only Instructions You'll Ever Need to Knit Sweaters that make You Look Good and Feel Great! Amy focuses more on curvy figures and flattering shapes for a variety of figures. It is more an alteration book while the first two focus on design and drafting.

If you enjoy reading my blog, I'd really appreciate it if you would tell your knitting friends or share links to your favourite posts online with Twitter, Ravelry or Facebook. Word of mouth is really helping to grow my business as knitters respect the views of other members of our community. Thanks!

Friday, November 21, 2014

Once
a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights
on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed
that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly
different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting
world.You can find yellowcosmo here and hereon Ravelry.

Where do you find inspiration?

Everywhere,
during my walks, movies, etc. But quite often my best ideas happen
when I just wake up in the morning with a half-asleep brain.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Cables and lace. I think, for now. I can be quite fickle.

How did you determine your size range?

Often
it's dictated by the design and pattern repeat. But if there is no
restriction based on pattern repeat, I usually start the smallest size
around a 30" chest measurement and go in increments of 3" and do about 8-10
sizes.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

Sometimes
I try. But to be honest, I'm rather lazy to really search them out. I get a
bit impatient looking at pattern after pattern. But there are
definitely a few designers that I always love to look at and get
excited with their new patterns.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

Even
though it makes writing patterns a lot more tedious, I can see the pros
and cons. It certainly is a nice way to include knitters who otherwise
would not feel comfortable. On the other hand, if a knitter
heavily relies on detailed instructions all the time, it does hamper the
knitter's development, I think.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I'm
pretty lucky that I have about 8-10 testers who knit for me more
regularly, and few others that do so every now and then when they have
the time.

Wow, hmmm... that's a completely foreign concept to me. I can barely plan my day/week as it is.

Do you have a mentor?

Well,
not in knitting. But I had a mentor in college when I was studying
painting. Patrick was the biggest influence in my creative life and it
extended beyond fine art. Studies with him had shaped my creative
process, my aesthetics, and my way to form and re-form any idea. All
these are deeply connected to what and how I design.

I'm
a dinosaur. I have a blog, but I don't really think of it as a huge part
of my business considering I don't have many followers. It's just a
way for me to talk about my knitting. I recently joined Instagram, but
so far there is barely any knitting in it though. I don't have a
facebook account. By nature, I'm a private person, so I'm still
adjusting to the concept of social media.

Do you use a tech editor?

Yes,
I have been working with an amazing tech editor, Judy, for quite some
time. She really taught me a lot about pattern writing. I've begun
working with a couple of other wonderful editors too, Ashley and Sashka.

Haha,
after my MFA graduate program where a good critique day meant no one
cried, most criticisms now seem mild in comparison. I generally try to
process the constructive part when I'm ready to deal with it, and shrug
off the few nonsensical ones. I try to remind myself, "What's my goal,
write better patterns? make designs that work better?" etc. If the
criticism helps me to work towards that goal, it's all good.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I
wish I had an answer for that :) I'd be eating top ramen everyday and
living in a tent if I only lived off my design earnings.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Go
for it. It's a great time to do it. The amount of creativity in the
knitting world is very exciting for someone just starting out. There is
so much to inspire a new designer. But know in your heart what your
priorities are. Each person is different. You can find advice, but you
know what balance works for you the best.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

I'm often asked how one goes about getting professional accreditation as a hand knit designer. Unfortunately there is no direct route to attain a degree or certification. Some designers do go the fashion school route, they learn about garment construction but often if knits are included in the program they are machine not hand knits. The focus is generally on manufacturing jobs and the main stream fashion retail world. Sizing targets industry standards and ignores specialized fit requirements. What we do in the hand knitting world is really very narrowly focused. Hand knitters have their own distinct subculture and aesthetic. I've also done a fair bit of machine knitting and depending on the complexity of the machine it can be a very different pursuit and skill set.

My educational background was founded in my personal interest in garment construction and fit. My focus was the wider range of custom garment construction in both fabric and knitting. I've always been intensely interested in fashion and I studied it through magazines, TV, movies and theatre.

I've taken many classes in sewing, couture techniques, tailoring, millinery, pattern drafting and knitting. Some were at the continuing education programs offered by the Board of Education in my city but they offered no accreditation. Most teachers had either run their own garment related business or had worked in the manufacturing end of the business. Some were completely self taught, others had graduated from a fashion program or they had completed an apprentice program. Since I was taking the classes for my own interest and enjoyment and never intended to make this my career it was of no concern to me that I didn't end up with a piece of paper proving my accomplishments. I asked a few industry insiders, how did you end up doing following this path?

Kate Atherley says purely by accident. She was an avid recreational knitter, and a co-worker introduced her to the owner of the Naked Sheep (a local yarn shop), she started teaching at the shop, and developing designs for them, and it went from there. Another introduction to the owners of Needful Yarns got her started on pattern writing and tech editing.

Fiona Ellis told me she left University and set up a free-lance fashion business. An agent who sold her design concepts to fashion houses introduced her to Trisha Malcolm,of Vogue, who encouraged her to submit to the magazine.

Glenna C. says personal interest is what drove her. She wrote patterns for the kinds of things she wanted to knit but couldn't find patterns to match. Publishing her own designs was a logical extension of her interests. She has no formal training in the garment or craft-related world. She started with the help of the Vogue Knitting book chapter on designing patterns, and learned as she worked. She has explored different kinds of garment and accessory designs by practicing and building her skill set slowly. She tells me "I have definitely learned a lot in the last few years!"

Monday, November 17, 2014

At a recent event I was asked for some inspirational
fashion blogs. I’ve included a list below of the ones I read. You can
either add them to your favourites list on your device or use a blog
reader. I like Feedly. The advantage to
using a reader is it identifies the blogs that have posted new content
since you last visited them. It also suggests other blogs in the same
category, which is a way of finding new sources.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Once
a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights
on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed
that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly
different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting
world.

Quite literally, everywhere. I annoy my friends and family because I’m unable to walk three feet without noticing an inspiring bit of packaging, or a sweet expression on a child, or something in a shop window or a fascinating tree.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Anything that reduces fiddly finishing work. I'm not anti-finishing, it's actually one of my favorite things to learn about, but I don't like how bulky seams can ruin the clean lines of a garment, so I prefer to engineer items that minimize this. That means a lot of picking up stitches and working sleeves or lower halves of garments. I also love a three-needle bind-off worked to the outside for a prominent visible ridge.

How did you determine your size range?

I feel pretty strongly that knitwear shouldn't be "one size fits all." There is a lot that goes into what looks good on different bodies. It's not just bust size, it's ease and silhouette too. I'm not an expert on dressing all kinds of bodies but I try to be inclusive as well. The garments dictate the size ranges in most cases, slouchy pieces will have a smaller range than fitted ones.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?

I do keep an eye on it, because part of my job is to be aware of what is going on in the knitwear world. I feel admiration more often than jealousy but there are times when I wish I had thought of something first--usually a marketing idea, not a knitting one, not a design. I am loving Rosa Pomar’s yarn labels at the moment, and nearly everything Karen Templer of Fringe Association does is genius. For silhouettes, I look to fashion more than anything else and by the time I’ve translated a woven piece into a knit, it’s not a knock-off.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?

I am actually completely in favor of recruiting new knitters, and I encourage students to attempt projects that are slightly outside their skill level so that it will force improvement. That often means they will need a bit of hand-holding, and that’s okay. That said, I’m a bit old guard in that I had to run to the library to find techniques explained, and it’s all online now, if not in the pattern itself. Jared Flood and I like to joke that we’d love to publish a beautiful pattern photo with a pattern that just says: “Make it look like the photo” because after all that work, writing up the pattern can be a bit of a drag. I guess I’m of two minds on this: designers should aim for clarity, but knitters should do their homework as well.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I use sample knitters on occasion but to be honest, I’m much happier to see a design all the way through. My designs change a lot while I’m working on them and usually for the better. Some of my best design details are really just my response to a disaster. All design is problem solving, right? Well, I encounter plenty of problems and it’s fun! It’s less fun to discuss those over email with a confused sample knitter. They’re also incredibly hard to find. Someone who is equal parts talented and inquisitive, who will spot issues but also not get knocked too far off course. he few that I use are total treasures to me and I wish I could pay them triple what I do.

Did you do a formal business plan?

I don’t, but I do frequently check in with myself to make sure I am happy. I can’t do good work if I’m not. My job is to get other knitters excited about yarn and knitting and if I’m miserable, it shows. I’m working from home now which is great for the way I work (in a sprawling, messy way) but I’m actively working on scheduling my time in a reasonable way. When you love what you do, it can dominate everything before you even realize it.

Do you have a mentor?

Norah Gaughan was highly influential. She’s analytical and curious and logical and her knitting reveals all of that. It’s so imaginative and so sensible at the same time. Her designs are a delight to make and wear and in my mind I’ve made them all. Andra Asars and Kathy Elkins have been invaluable inspirations on the business side of things. Yes, our industry is sparkly and fluffy and pretty but that’s no reason to not treat it like an actual business. When I speak up for myself and stand my ground I know I’m channeling these two.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

Not really, but I adore Garance Doré who is an illustrator, filmmaker, blogger, photographer, etc. etc. She does whatever moves her and is really good at it, I think because she’s moving from the same place I am, a persistent fascination with beauty.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?

I only have a career because I’ve had a presence online pretty much since the start. Blogging was what got me noticed and social media continues to be an important part of the equation. Before that I wrote a zine, I’ve always had the urge to broadcast and create. I try to keep it organic even when working for companies because I loathe rote, dry posts begging for likes, and I think most people do.

Do you use a tech editor?

Oh yes! I love tech editors.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?

There is very little separation for me. Now that I’m working at home, I am much happier. My creativity doesn’t fit well into an office setting and I’m much happier working a super long day with random breaks for walks, cooking, reading, creative refueling. Most of the work is so joyous it doesn’t bother me that it can take eons.

How do you deal with criticism?

That new Taylor Swift song “Shake it Off” sums it up nicely! The hardest part is to keep my inner critic in check, to be honest. I only truly like about 25% of what I make, but in a way that keeps me moving forward.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

My working model is very different from the usual. I partner with companies and am paid enough to support myself without relying on pattern sales. I don’t think I could handle the volatile marketplace and stay creative, to be honest, so I am happy to work this way. That said, when a yarn doesn’t do as well as I’d hoped I take it pretty hard, but again, that keeps me moving forward.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Be realistic but don’t wait for opportunities to fall into your lap--create your own! The worst you’ll hear is no.

If you enjoy reading my blog, I'd really appreciate it if you would tell your knitting friends or share links to your favourite posts online with Twitter, Ravelry or Facebook. Word of mouth is really helping to grow my business as knitters respect the views of other members of our community. Thanks!

Monday, November 10, 2014

For all those women with model type figures of over 5' 10'' and very low body weights, being photographed in oversize clothing can read as cute. As for the rest of us not so much, which is why I didn't find any images of more average women in these outfits.I've collected some images from Pinterest to show the difference between too big and items designed to be oversized.

Note the sleeves that are too long and the sloppy necklines in the first 4 photos. The last photos have areas that fit correctly but are cut very loosely elsewhere.

Friday, November 7, 2014

Once
a week I post interviews with interesting people about their insights
on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed
that every one of these individuals makes their living in a slightly
different manner bringing their own unique presence to the knitting
world.

Where do you find inspiration?It
could be anything... a reflection in a puddle, a flower, a tile on a
building. Mostly though, I find it inspiring to look at beautiful
things, whether from nature or from something that has been created. I
try to keep a detailed design journal for those blessed times when the
ideas are coming fast and furious.

What is your favourite knitting technique?

Oh
that's a hard one!! Hmm, maybe Moebius knitting. I find it calming,
fun, endlessly fascinating and yet, there always seems to be more to
learn. Never boring!

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?That
is a really, really good question. I don't think I am necessarily
phobic about others' ideas implanting into my subconscious and turning
up in something of mine because I have a pretty unique style, but I do
tend to stay away from browsing new patterns on Ravelry. It's too
anxiety producing to see the hundreds of new lovely designs coming down
the pike every day and it makes me feel slow and inadequate.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters? I
honestly didn't know there is a controversy. I think patterns have
changed hugely over the last ten years, because knitters have increased
their skill set over the internet, on Ravelry forums and YouTube. I have
noticed a certain skill discrepancy between older knitters who aren't
as internet savvy and less likely to look up things they are not
familiar with, and newer knitters who have seen and done a wider variety
of techniques. The newer knitters tend to be much more fearless. As a
result, I find myself not needing to explain things to quite the degree
that I used to in patterns. From your question, though, it would seem
that you are noticing the opposite. Very interesting.

It
is a challenge to write patterns that everyone is happy with. It's a
hard job to reach knitters at a common level and not be overly
simplistic. That's why I love to teach. I think it is much easier to get
things across in an engaging way in person.

Also,
I find that I write differently for different audiences. I don't think
this is necessarily dumbing down, however. For instance, I will condense
as much as possible if I am writing for a magazine. In my own patterns
and collections, I unapologetically use as much space as I need. I don't
know if this answers your question or not. Probably, if I was getting
complaints from knitters about my pattern writing, I might be more aware
of the issue.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?That
number varies with my work flow. I try not to do it all myself,
although I do knit everything I design once, either before or alongside
whoever I have working with me. I like to have a group of testers all
doing it together because they will notice different things between
them. I admit that I have a terrible time keeping track of testers I
have used, and I forget about them unless we work together consistently.
I may be guilty of using certain ones over and over for that reason. It
just takes less effort. A good test knitter is hard to find! And they
are so essential to the process.

Did you do a formal business plan?

No. I never have had a formal business plan.

Do you have a mentor?
I have had mentors, although now I probably have more peer support than mentor support.

Do you have a business model that you have emulated?

I
am probably way too right-brained for that. There are certainly
business methods and business people that I know and admire (and feel
extremely lucky in that), but I know myself too well to try to emulate
someone who does not process information the same way I do.

It's
very hard in this business! There is not enough time to do everything. I
try to take days off, and it's easier to do that when I am away from
home. I am learning to stay an extra day when I am traveling if it is
possible, and just have fun. At home, I tend to work.How do you deal with criticism?

Not
very well, I am afraid. Years ago in art school, I came up with the
strategy of being unique and having my own style, and just working
really hard in order to be more or less above criticism. I am critical
of myself and that's hard enough! And yet, it seems to be getting a
little easier over time to pick up and go on after an incident. How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?

I
didn't have to support myself until I had been designing for a few
years, which helped take the stress off. Now, I think we all have to be
more creative about marketing and special events like retreats and
knitalongs to be visible above the sea of designers. There are so many.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Take the time to explore your own style, and don't expect knitters to come and find you.

About Me

email contact robinknits(AT)gmail(dot)com
I've been knitting my whole life. I don't even remember learning. I started making garments for myself in my teens and then explored sewing, tailoring and millinery. I want to teach knitters about fit and flattery and turn them into fashion stars!
On my blog you will find lots of interviews with knitting industry professionals, how to tutorials and a variety of posts about what's going on in the knitting world.
I love to come out and speak at shops and guilds. Here's what the Downtown Knit collective said after one of my talks:
“Robin Hunter’s inspiring talk, “The Barbie Factor,” left everyone in a feel-good mood at the conclusion of the May meeting. Heads were nodding in agreement all around ... as she tackled a multi-faced problem faced by many knitters—why don’t we knit for ourselves? She touched on many topics including fashion, body image, media and how it all relates back to our knitting.”
You can see my patterns on http://www.patternfish.com/des/robin_hunter and you can find me on Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/people/knittingrobin
My YouTube channel is here:http://www.youtube.com/user/robinknits?feature=mhee