mercedes benz class g clutch disc

Answers and questions: mercedes benz class g clutch disc

Hi I have a 300GD with a sliding clutch. I am from the Philippines and G-wagon parts are hard to come by. Can the pressure plate and clutchdisc from a W123 300D be used as replacement I think they have exact dimensions (128mm) as the G-wagon. Thanks

I think that the flywheels and pressure plates are different than the G. Why not just contact Steve at Eurotruck and have him send you the parts Eurotruck Importers Your source for mercedes-benz off-road vehicles and spare parts

I believe it would reduce the free play. The free play is the distance between the throwout bearing and the actuating arms on the pressure plate. As the clutchdisc wears (becomes thinner) the arms on the pressure plate move closer to the throwout bearing (as the opposite end of the arms moves closer to the flywheel). __________________ Vincent Canepa Member since 1973 1999 E430 Smoke Silver wParchment full leather &nbsp2014 ML350 4Matic&nbspDiamond Silver wAuburn&nbspBrown-Black leather

There are two wear issues here. The clutch itself and the linkage (since the original post involves a mechanicaly actuated clutch). Wear on the clutchdisc would reduce the free play. Wear in the linkage as Joe points out could increase the free play. M-B recommends checking the free play at the throwout arm. I think that clearance is around 4-5 mm (check your manual to be sure - the old Owners Manuals

I have a 1999 A160 5 spd with ACS & it intermittently has very aggressive clutch engagement generally in 1st & 2nd. Doesnt happen all the time & nothing specific induces it (although if you put the car in 1st foot on the brake & give some throttle it will usually do it). Another forum member is experiencing similar issues in this tread. httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsgene...to-clutch.html The car has done

your gearbox is basically a manual box and as far as I know no differences accept that the ACS actuator does the job of the clutch on a fully manual version I thiunk if you had actuator problems you would get an F display so I would discount that one you could check the sump breather tube that connecting the the ECU induction line and MAY have some bearing on the tick-over which could be causing the problem but Ive not hjeard of thios problem before. There is information on my page 59b that will explain the system every little helps. I cant think why you would want to pree the accelorator and keep your foot on the foot brake normally the car is help on the hand brake see also the instructions for driving ACS which I have taken direct from the owners manual which makes mention of holding the car with the revs. Bert Rowes-mercedes-benz A-class info. mercedes- benz A class (ACS) Auto clutch-less transmission

hi mate I got your pm but better to discuss here to help you and others. The ACS has 2 engagement stages when the brake is pressed and a gear selected the clutch is disengaged. When you select a gear with either hand or foot brake on the clutch stays disengaged when the brake is released the clutch is moved to the biting point then on throttle application the clutch engages fully depending on how much

i need to replace the fan clutch. does anyone have any recommendations as to where i would find a good clutch online also been toying with the idea of putting an electric fan instead of the clutch. what does everyone think about that idea. i think it would pull enough air as well cost less than replacing the clutch.

these are 4 mm allen head from memory). Budget 4 hours if you havent done this before or 2.5 hours if you have (the last half hour is dedicated to burping the air out of the system with engine running and slowly adding coolant through the overflow bowl to the correct fluid level). I replaced mine today see this link R&R of Viscous Coupled Fan Serpentine Belt Replacement W210 E300D - PeachParts mercedes

br I drive a 5-speed 300GD Wagen. It has both a reconditioned engine and gearbox. After just 25000 miles I had to change the clutch. Not because of the clutch plate (that was almost in perfect condition) but because the bearing in the center was giving way and it was rattling more than a Russian truck at idle. br br I have owned two other G-Wagens before (both 300GDs) and they also did the same though

Quote Originally Posted by Lars It seems like mercedes is aware of the problem with a weak noisy clutch disk and they now can supply a clutch-disk with four strong springs that gives a longer travel for the disk (how much it can move around the center spline-coupling). Inside two of the four springs are two smaller springs to further strengthen the springing action. In the old design there was six

my car (99 230 5spd) is at the dealer getting the clutch throw-out bearing replaced (under warranty - more on that below).br br while they are doing that work they will install a new clutchdisc for me for the cost of the part plus 1 hour of labor... that is 276 for the disc plus 82 for labor. while they have it apart they will also examine the pressure plate and let me know its condition.br br i think

well after 2 trips to the junkyard and 3 fan clutches later I finally learned the C28036 uses a slightly different fan clutch although the standard 103-200-04-22 that I now have 3 of will fit and function and a few online parts vendors list it for the C36... the downside is it appears to engage too early around or just before 80C and thats just no good for me I even swapped in a lower temp (75C) thermostat

have something to do with it anyone else like to share some knowledge would be good so your saying that you have a 1996 c36 and the 2 electric fans come on at 85 degrees at the same time it was my understanding that the viscous coupling (fan clutch) spins a lot faster at 85 degrees to the cool the engine. and then if it becomes too hot the electric fans kick in at 105 then 115 degrees. may be benz

Hi Everyone I have a vibration when driving over 90kmh on my Merc W202 C180 after replacing the cluch and flywheel. It makes this drowning noise if I go over 90-110kmh and if I drive faster it really starts to vibrate the whole car. I also had my wheel balancing checked as it fine.Front suspension is also good had the bushes replaced and lower ball joints a week before this job. Allignment is a bit

Hi All I have a 1998 C200 manual. I know my car has a seized AC compressor. Every time I push the clutch in I hear a grating sound. I assumed it was due to the compressor but why do I only hear it when the clutch is in Could it be due to something else Oh and I always leave the AC switched off until I get the compressor replaced next month. Thanks Jase

Quote Originally Posted by Jase Ouch Is that a common known problem Does it just require changing the clutch or is there more to it In addition to whatever clutch kit you buy be sure to check your flywheel for any discolor etc. If it has grooves or color issues have your flywheel resurfaced. I have not done a clutch job on one of these but on my Porsche 944 it is also recommended that you change the

Thats funny. My old Porsche 944 I loved that car. Completely loved it. I had one only one ever reported problem. The clutch blew up on me one day while cruising in Daytona Beach BOOM SMOKE DANG Hello Mr. Tow Truck 1650 later it was all fixed and never ever had another problem with it. Quote Originally Posted by Metafly In addition to whatever clutch kit you buy be sure to check your flywheel for any

Hello All I hope everyone is happy and well. I thought Id share my experiences of repairing the Fan clutch on both my ML320 trucks one 1998 build and the other 2000. In traffic I had started to notice temperatures creeping up and around the 95C mark and thought this was a little too high. On inspection I discovered a couple of issues The Fan clutch The coolant expansion tank (for another thread) The

HibrI have -82 GD300. The clutch makes some weird hummingbuzzing noice when the pedal is fully floored. The clutch disengages well even at 23 of the full pedal travel. Only when I lean on the clutch fully the noise comes to play.brWhat might be causing this and does it need to be fixedbrTomibrp

Hello Tomibr brThe problem sounds familiar to me. I looked up in some old service information on the G and discovered an update for the 300 GD with a four speed transmission. They say to replace the Driven Plate with part number 007 250 9503. I dont know how much that will help but its information.pPete has some good ideas too. pI must make you aware of the normal noises you will hear from the G diesels.

HI first post on this forum and i have a probelem or two pulling out of a turning clutch peddle went streight to the floor no clutch peddle stayed on the floor when I lifted the peddle by hand it was solid and would not move. I thaught that if the slave cylender seals had gone the peddle would still go gown but do nothing so could this mean the actual clutch has broken also the speedo has stoped working

Hi Steve I would start by checking the clutch brake fluid level as air in the clutch system will cause the clutch pedal almost pull itself down to the floor boards ( when the pedal is pressed half way down it will continue goingdown even when you take the pressure off - looks wierd ). From my previous post on checking fluid levels Checking the level of the clutch fluid is easy its the same reservoir

Quote Toronto230GE - 652005 811 PM Can anyone tell me the parts numbers for the clutch pressure plate a slave cylinder pilot bearing. 1987 230GE. thanks in advance Peter Hi Peter Here are some part numbers from my records of my G before I got it so the part numbers may have changed but they are for my 85 230GE with the same 5-speed you have. These are from 1996 from a Europa bill. clutchdisc 009

I have just bought a clutch for a 230 1988 disc 006 250 88 03 Pressure plate 003 250 47 04 I cross refered theses numbers to FGS who supplied a complete kit for Â147-00 I certainly wouldnt use a 300 GD part

My clutch or gearbox rattle. The sound goes away when I press the clutch pedal to the bottom or when i press the gear selector against one of the gearpositions without pressing the clutchpedal. It also feels like it does not fully disconnect the engine as it is a little hard to get into 1st or reverse. Bad throw-out bearing perhaps The sound is similar to the engine sound diesel knockering. It is a 240GD with a 4 speed gearbox. Torfinn

I have some new questions I know here is a lot of knowledgeble people Is this electromagnetic clutch is part of ac compressor could it be fixed separate or I have to replace the whole compressor and other codes are B1459B1231B234B1235 I dont think those are very important but what you think

The electromagnet clutch is built into the pulley at the front of the compressor. It contains a thermal fuse which blows if the belt slips enough to generate the heat. That fuse is not replaceable as a separate part. Turn the compressor clockwise (from the front) by hand to determine if it turns easily and smoothly. Also disconnect the connector and measure the clutch coil resistance to ground. These

Hi I wounder if anyone could help me yesterday I replaced the hydrolic pump that operates the ACS gear box on my A-class now Ive put in the replacement pump the dread F sign in the dash board seemed to have disappeared but my gears are locked down (i.e. I cannot select a gear when the engine is running). I did spend some time yesterday trying to bleed the system out any air at one point I got the gears

Hi bleeding is easy I couldnt seem to bleed it normally by opening and closing the valve but it bled up easily by reverse bleeding to do this I reccomend a 60ml syringe 3 from a pet shop and a length of clear hose. make sure the clutch master cylinder is empty then fill the syringe with brake fluid attach the clear hose and purge the air from the hose. Then loosen the bleeder 1 turn and attach the

hello got a few questions realy. to start with when i drive my van it drives fine but as soon as i turn it off it wont go out or into gear (dependng if its in or out of gear). Once i leave it for a bit it works fine again. So i had to put it in 3rd and drive home like that I just wondered does this sound like the clutch has gone If it is does anyone know what parts i need and where to buy them from

I finaly got the work done by a garage (family) in order to get a discount i had to help which ment i seen the parts that come out and what had to be done. All garages should offer this service or to watch or something. know what your paying for then. Basicalt the clutch had bent a couple of the teeth bits and one had snapped off. Also fluid from the release bearing (think its called that) the bit that compresses the clutch had been leaking too. I got it all replaced and it works fine now.

I am reworking my cooling system and have been stymied on the part number for this fan and clutch. I am new to this and probably need help on finding sources for parts. I called a place that advertizes on this forum but was curtly told to get a part number before they would help me. My 280Ge is new to me and I love it Thanks in advance - Ian

Quote frianm - 8192005 751 AM I am reworking my cooling system and have been stymied on the part number for this fan and clutch. I am new to this and probably need help on finding sources for parts. I called a place that advertizes on this forum but was curtly told to get a part number before they would help me. My 280Ge is new to me and I love it Thanks in advance - Ian Ian 1.) If a seller (and I

i have a semi automatic A class avantgarde(1999 version) and i think the gear clutch sysem is going - i was wondering where i could get a cheap semi automatic gearbox and how much it will cost me to replace Once i tried to change the gear nob but i could not take it off it was like it was wealded on.... is it possible

where two screws holding the motor casing on undo these and pull the casing off to reveal the rotor and actuator. Look closely at the rotor end which is towards the tube end of the larger cylinder you should see a sort of structure holding two blocks of copper either side of the rotor. Theses are the bushes and in my case these where the problem as they had worn out (after 60K miles come on mercedes).

have been looking around and im still not sure what to do this only started a few days ago..and has come and gone i cant get onto gear once ive startedany gear.. have to kill engine and put in gear and then start (once or twice the van has shifted a bit while doing thiswhile clutch still down)..once moving im fine-apart from once when i could not get into 5th and the other gears needed an extra shove

up date i disconnected both ends of the 2 gear linkage cables and gave them a good greese on the ends under the ashtray..i could not get to the cable in the engine -it seems sealed.. i also pumped the clutch and it seemed to work fine afterwards so air in the system it could very well be..and as futfuther proof i just read while looking for bleeding instructions that the clutch and brakes share the

Ok so from my previous thread I have discovered what the massive air rushingjet sound is my fan clutch is done. I cannot move it freely while the engine is off and it spins with the speed of the engine. So Im looking around for replacements and Im finding the Sachs one for 215-250 Beck Arnley for 166 and APAURO for 153. With money being tight Im wondering what is the difference and is it worth paying

You also sound like a guy who knows [vulgarity omitted] i e your quote never work on electrical circuits until you have confirmed the circuit is dead will never fix a car because if you can not read what output the components are generating you will never be able to fix them. This sounds like the u k clubs - hand out the names and adresses of all the dealerships who you can trust to fix your mercedes.

Could anyone please tell me specifically what tells the supercharger clutch when to engage I have recently had some problems with the supercharger oil leaking out and being sucked into the intake. I had to get a new supercharger and a new MAF sensor. Now with the new supercharger installed the clutch isnt engaging. The wires seem to be putting out 12V at any engine speed but will not magnetize the

Try disconnecting the wire at the SC...........using a length of heavy wire with an alligator clip each end......apply 12V from the battery to the SC.....should snap closed Try it first on your old clutch.........dont forget to complete the circuit back to the battery or car ground The ground connection of the SC also needs checking......shouldnt be a problem but a quick check would be to use your

Hi Last week the clutch on my 280GE started to make some weird whinning noise. Happens when the pedal is fully floored. The clutch disengages well and the transmission still shifts ok but Im afraid the car will just stop in the middle of the street so I wont drive it until this is solved My mechanic tells me its most probably the clutch bearing. He explained to me that this will involve pulling out

I took the (financial) plunge and replaced everything -clutch plate -clutchdisc -throwout bearing -pilot bearing Noise is completely gone and the trans shifts oohhh so smoothly. Thanks to all for your input. Greg

I recently replaced my engine fan clutch because when doing routine maintenance I noticed that my fan free wheeled on a cold engine and had oil residue all over it. So I bought an oem fan clutch. when it arrived it also free wheeled cold. I then searched some threads and came across one that said the clutched were electromagnetically controlled. That would explain the free wheeling. Is there any truth

I dont see point in this discussion. Whatever fan clutch does with engine cold is irrelevant. It is what it does with engine hot that counts. Checking fan clutch out of the box that laid flat on the shelf is silly as well. Thats not how it is installed on the engine.

The purpose of this thread is to detail my experiences with changing a fan clutch on my car. Symptoms of failure included higher than normal operating temperatures strange idling vibrations one overheating episode and air conditioning not blowing cold when at idle. There are a few different brands of clutch available but in the end I went with the mercedes rebuilt. It is part number 111200042281. Lists

Same Sachs unit Now made by Horton (look them up very impressive company) Also shows a 210 part number though the W210s were not sold in the USA with M111 engines. I got started on the job only to discover the Kommen pulley I had ordered from Amazon would not fit over the bolts of the fan pulley and the allen bolts that hold the fan to the clutch are really 5mm (not 8mm as they are on a different car

Friday...My 1987 230GE 5 speed decided to refuse to go into gear while traveling at about 50 km. The clutch pedal seemed suddenly softer and uncharacteristic due to the general stiffness it has seemed to have ever since I have had it (during the last six months). When i returned to my garage after coaxing it into gear the only factor visibly was a smallish pool of fluid centered at the nose of the

Well 910 it was hydraulic but lucky you got the 110 that was blown clutchdisc... [(] I too am always truely amazed 1 how great these trucks drive when in good nick and 2 just how totally screwed up they can be and drive really pretty darned good in spite of it. I was tooling around happy as a clam thinking I had a wheel bearing getting a little loose when in fact the friggin hub was broke in 6 pieces Im not proud of it but the fact is the G soldiered on. -Dave G.

Hi Leon Checking the level of the clutch fluid is easy its the same reservoir as the brake fluid. Bleading is more difficult as fluid has to be pushed up from the slave cylinder. I adapted a easy bleed brake bleeder to deliver fluid to the blead nipple. I then discovered that the nipple is very hard to turn with a conventional spanner took out two notches from the sides of a deep socket to allow the

On a couple of occasions recently I have noticed a roughness in the clutch pedal (1986 300GD SWB). I can only describe it as hitting a hardgrinding spot for an inch or so then back to normal. No problems changing gears and it only happens infrequently. Any suggestions on what to look forexpect A post some time ago mentioned Slave cylinders. Does it go suddenly or do I have some time thanks for any help

Quote ...a hardgrinding spot for an inch or so then back to normal.... This really could be any point in the system where metal slides on metal. Anywhere from the pistons in the bores of the master or slave cylinder (though youd be less likely to feel roughness from the slave) to any of the pivot points in the pedal mechanism to the throwou bering sliding on the input shaft sleeve. If your clutch fluid

My fan clutch (99 E430) decided to give up the ghost at 116K - its wobbly and locked up at all speeds. Im not a fan of spending 280 bucks for such a basic part - has anyone used the less expensive knock-offs

The clutch for my Ford Superduty retails at 370. Using my construction business as referral the dealer gave me 100 discount. Try that with MB or call Duval.

Hi all - my fan clutch needs to be replaced and I went on Pelican to get some prices. Theres a mercedes OEM part for about 600 and a Behr part for 120. Being that its such a major difference in price I was wondering if anyone has any experience with that particular part. I know that Behr is generally high quality but the listing on Pelican has a caveat that this particular unit is slightly different from OEM. Any ideas here I do not want to spend 600 if I dont have to.

Callemail Dr. Fatty at BuyEuroParts.com - Wholesale European Parts - mercedes BMW Volvo Saab Porsche and more and speak to him about what your options are. Hell know what brand is OEM should you decide to go that route or he can get you an OE one for less than 600 Ill bet. Ask for the Poosy discount for the best deal. This guy really knows his stuff and wont sell junk (like URO stuff.) Dan

I need help fast..... Baby on the way and need my E430 fixed before next thursday the 30th.... My 2001 E430 will go into drive but not back into park. without turning off the car first.... I did see i had the wicking syndrome... ATF in the TCU but cleaned it out with CRC and still no help... The only code ODBII pulled was p0704 (clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction ) Where is that and or is it the

Thanks to everyone for the help and ohlord.... Anybody have a link to the DIY of the link to a great place to get the connector cheap I know it seems like im lazy but im really busy and just really appreciate any help to speed this task alone.... Does anyone know if when i change the connector if only mercedes can reset the code or can i just disconnect the battery as usual thanks again

I ordered a new fan clutch because my fan spins freely no matter what temperature my car is and the car runs warmer than usual in traffic but fine on the highway. Does anyone have any advice for changing the clutch I can borrow the tools I need from autozone right What tools do I ask for In the image I attached do I only need to undo the nut right between the fan and pulley Which way does the wrench

I cut my old one off with a sawzall. I didnt have the tools to disconnect it. It was actually not broken but I was doing the waterpump. A new fan clutch was cheaper than ordering the tool to remove it.

Now that I ordered both the master and slave clutch cylinders Im wondering it I may be able to replace them properly and drainbleed the fluid like a shop would. Europa advised to gravity bleed the lines the current master doesnt even let any fluid through. Im hoping the new master would let the fluid flow just by letting it sit there and let gravity do its job. I was also wondering how hard it would

Hello everyone i have a bad water pump and need those special wrenches i read aboutbut cant find anyone who sells them please point me in the right direction thank you all.

Just wanted to follow up for anyone looking for these specialized tools. I received my order and the wrenches are well made and worked perfectly. They are plenty long enough to clear the engine and shroud and give good leverage. Obviously these are probably made in China but at 35 plus S&H they are far cheaper than MB dealer at 180 or 150 if you have a discount. The seller was ZDMAK and I found them by searching for mercedes Fan tools on eBay.

Routine inspection has revealed that the belt has started to crack and glaze at 156000 miles. This is a 98 pre-facelift model with the viscous fan clutch. Can the old belt be removed and the new belt installed without removing the fan and its housing I have searched and not found this issue discussed. A related question is whether the idler pulley can similarly be replaced I have read some conflicting

This is for my SLK but I assume to E-class uses the same connections. Maybe a simple question but Ive struggled now for some time and I dont want to break anything. Im trying to remove my center console and the storage cabinet in the center armrest is vacuum locked via the PSE. I need to remove the pipe going to the lock but is having no joy and and dont want to cut the pipe. It has various places

The console lock is only for the SLK but I think the connectors is the same as is used on the pipes going to the locks on the E-class. Ive did some further investigation and I think I can make a tool to release the clutches. Ill try it tomorrow and report back.

I have searched and read quite a few threads on the subject of the Valve Body and or Conductor Plate failing. What I am interested in is if anyone knows if a Valve Body or Conductor Plate malfunction will cause clutch pack wear IOW....and in my case.....I have a minor cold weather oddsoft shift from 2 to 3 but only for a short period of time. If this is the Valve BodyConductor Plate....is it causing

Quote Originally Posted by Noodles It really seems like it is the valve bodyconductor plate which are one unit on these 7G transmissions. Noodles I am really trying to understand the valve body malfuntion (and not piss anyone off) ....do you know if this causes excess clutchdisc wear I am reading whatever I can find on the subject but have not found an answer..........................yet. Dealer did

My AC was not cooling at all. My mechanic diagnosed some probs and as the bill was going to run high I did not do anything for the moment. He did say that he also disconnected the blower while looking at it. Because of this the blower obviously does not work at this point. I did check the blower under the dash on right side and checked the connections of the blower regulator. They were fine. I thought

i have a leak from water pump - behind the clucth fan . below is a picture of where leak is.the leak is the green antifreeze. do i need to replace water pump or just the gasket.

Your water pump needs to be replaced. Ii is the whole assembly and individual parts cannot be replaced within the pump itself. By looking at the photo the leak is coming from the discharge valve indicating the bearings gasket is shot. If you are planning on DIY it is not hard but time consuming. Make sure you get a good brand name pump as I once bought the unknown brand name it started to leak within 2 weeks from the same discharge valve like yours.