Miami River Inn 118 SW S. River Dr., 305/325-0045 or 800/468-3589, miamiriverinn.comAn offbeat charmer with 40 guest rooms in a cluster of cottages around a courtyard and small pool. Rooms have hardwood floors and antique beds and dressers. "Well-behaved" pets welcome. Doubles from $69 in summer, $89 in winter.

Hotel Astor956 Washington Ave., 305/531-8081 or 800/270-4981, hotelastor.comThe beige rooms are huge for an old deco hotel, with nice touches like TVs on swivel poles and rain-head showers. The staff is reliably friendly. It's a two-block walk to the beach. Doubles from $125 in summer, $190 in winter.

SOUTH BEACH

Royal South Beach Condo Hotel758 Washington Ave., 305/673-9009 or 888/394-6835, royalsouthbeach.comA funky bargain with a candy-colored lobby and futuristic accents. White rooms have injection-molded plastic bed frames, curvy chaise lounges, and other Jetsons-style furniture. Every room has a microwave, coffeemaker, and free toothpaste. The beach is two blocks away. Doubles from $89.

SOUTH BEACH

South Beach Plaza Villas1411 Collins Ave., 305/531-1331, southbeachplazavillas.comA shady group of buildings crowded together and outfitted with dark-wood furniture and handsome, tone-on-tone fabrics. One of the best low-cost options near the water, with a lush tropical courtyard just a half-block off the beach. Doubles from $129.

Townhouse150 20th St., 305/534-3800 or 877/534-3800, townhousehotel.comThe best boutique hotel near the beach, with an attentive, laid-back staff; small, beautifully minimalist rooms; and an inviting roof deck with crimson water beds for sunbathing. A two-minute walk to the water. Doubles from $135.

Appreciating Art Deco

Miami is famous for its art deco architecture, especially the hotels that dominate South Beach's skyline. Deco comes in different styles that are easy to spot.

Art deco boasts bas-relief murals, neon lights, "eyebrows" (3-D concrete shades) above the windows, and details designed to look like ships, right down to their porthole-shaped windows.

Depression moderne is less ornamental, and most of its decorations are on the interior. A prime example is the Miami Beach Post Office building at 1300 Washington Ave.

Streamline moderne is marked by rounded-off corners and curves that make buildings seem to move.

To learn more, take one of the walking tours run by the MDPL (see the Essentials page).

Recent Features

As seen on TV! We've followed Don Draper for seven seasons as he's crisscrossed the globe, be it via Cadillac or TWA flight. As the final episodes air, we're taking you back to the Golden Age of travel with a 'Mad Men'-inspired vacation guide for retro-style trips to cities Don visited.