If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

New feeder question

My husband and I recently added interior feeders to our two hives in hopes of eliminate robbing. We had been using exterior feeders and noticed some very aggressive black bees not letting our bees even close to the syrup. (as well as yellow jackets)

We opted to use the jar feeders (easy fast build, thank you AKDan). We had planned on adding multiple jars to the one hive so used a large square of screen. We decided the solid wood base would hinder ventilation so left one side off. We have noticed the bees congregating under the screen. I'm assuming they are cooling off (or trying to go up?), however I've never seen screen used in place of canvas. Are there any concerns we should have?

Also, how long before they catch on and start using the new feeders. We are concerned because there is limited access over the bars and the syrup hasn't gone down in over 12 hours.

Edited to add: We noticed in the picture that the bees are starting to pull the threads on the canvas. This could be a disastrous. We will try to flip the canvas and screen over so they can't get to the raw edge. They are sewn together.

Re: New feeder question

I mostly use sandwich bags for feeding but occasionally use inverted mason jars when I have to feed more. I set them up on the inner cover and bees enter the space through center hole on inner cover.. I lift the lids about quarter inch off the wood with scrap pieces of wood. I can put any number of jars there as the space permits. Then I put a deep box and the outer cover so no bee can enter from outside. Ventilation is not an issue as there is a notch on the inner cover. It appears the you are overly concerned about ventilation.

Re: New feeder question

Originally Posted by WillH

I mostly use sandwich bags for feeding but occasionally use inverted mason jars when I have to feed more. I set them up on the inner cover and bees enter the space through center hole on inner cover.. I lift the lids about quarter inch off the wood with scrap pieces of wood. I can put any number of jars there as the space permits. Then I put a deep box and the outer cover so no bee can enter from outside. Ventilation is not an issue as there is a notch on the inner cover. It appears the you are overly concerned about ventilation.

lol, I'm sure you're right. This is our first year at beekeeping (after a year of studying and taking classes) and we are realizing we know NOTHING, lol. But the learning process has been fun so far. Thanks for your input, we appreciate it greatly.

Re: New feeder question

You're welcome! I fed a bunch of different hives today. It took me a while to get comfortable with feeding bees and figuring out which feeders seemed to work the best for me etc. I can relate to where you're at. I have various feeders. Right now I am digging the frame feeders from Mann Lake. They hold a bunch of syrup and the bees can get to it very easily. They don't spill. I like using quail feeders also but if the hive isn't level they can drain completely out so you have to be careful with that. I have mason jar feeders like you are using as well. They work well for smaller hives but bigger hives can take a gallon a day so that is where you may get into using the bigger feeders.

These are the ones I'm using for some of the bigger hives.
The bees crawl down the mesh into the syrup and I just keep it in an empty box over the top of the frames, not actually in a spot beside the frames like in the picture.

Re: New feeder question

having the access windows is nice, I really should have put them in mine but didn't.

I think Doc mentioned the boxes with the jars inside, I had the FBM feeder. Try lifting the jar up and see if there's any coming bottom (top) of the lid? if there is they'll find it. I initially built a jar style feeder for a top bar hive, it sat behind the false wall and had a really small entrance. I didn't care for it mainly because it took up a ton of room in the hive (not associated with langs or warre's), and I couldn't feed more than a few at a time, the entrance was plugged with bees.

They will get through the metal screen. The warre plans I built from had his quilt with a wire mesh for a quilt. My quilt was built off of this but I opted to go cloth. You'll see the two rails inside (in my pics), the jars fit down the middle, sawdust on either side. . My ramps in the FBM style feeder is regular hardware screen. I tried to find the biggest mesh I could get my hands on and they suck the pan dry.

you can add a wire top like mine has also, just a frame with some mesh on it, so when you pull the lid you don't get a face full of bees. I can take the cover and quilt off and they are still in the hive. Its not warre principle to inspect from the top, but I cant resist on taking a peek now and than lol, again no windows . The screen will allow you to to smoke a little and it sits on the top. I stapled the screen in a rabbit, again nothing fancy.

I saw these mods online and so far I really like them, easy to make to boot.

Re: New feeder question

If you use an ordinary inner cover, with both sides having the 3/8" inch lift,(reversible) you can place an inverted mason jar with a few tiny holes in it over the hole directly. Tape over any gaps , allowing only the jar lid over the hole. Any critters must pass thru the entire cluster to rob them. Very unlikely! Set a spare box over the feeder, just for shade then place the roof right on. An inner cover is a poor roof. Allowing a gap lets the bees make a mess of the feeder box, and lets ants find the feeder. When not feeding place a piece of thin wood or ply over the feeder hole, and you will keep the benefits of having an inner cover. Such as, not glue-ing the frames to the roof.