[The
following is only a sample online manual for educational purposes]

This rudder
assembly manual has been organized to help the first-time builder assemble the rudder tail
kit. The rudder kit requires an estimated 12 hours to assemble, and provides the
builder with an excellent introduction to building the complete kit, covering most of the
skills and techniques needed to assemble the rest of the aircraft kit (the rudder is
basically a diminutive version of the wing).

INTRODUCTION

Building your own aircraft is probably going to be one
of the most challenging and rewarding things you will do in your lifetime: imagine, you'll
be flying in an aircraft that you have built yourself! Few people get the sensation and
freedom of flying. Even fewer also get the reward of flying a plane that they've built
themselves!

The most difficult part of the project will be getting
started: Don't become overwhelmed. While it's true that an aircraft is a piece of complex
machinery, it is also very simple, especially when building from a kit. It's normal that
you may initially become overwhelmed and confused, but your initial fears and concerns
will disappear as soon as the project starts coming together, and as you get a better
understanding of the construction. The ZODIAC CH 601 is a well designed light aircraft -
engineered specifically as a first-time kit project, using proven materials and simple
processes and systems.

This RUDDER ASSEMBLY MANUAL has been prepared as a
supplement to the complete and detailed Drawings and Manuals for the ZODIAC CH 601 series
aircraft.

The ZODIAC CH 601 rudder assembly is the same for all ZODIAC
CH 601 models. The assembly process is very similar for the STOL CH 701 rudder.

READING THE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: The detailed
Assembly Instructions have been prepared so that the complete airframe may be built from
the parts supplied in the kit. The drawings are not to scale, and provided measurements
are metric (millimeters). All the required references are provided in the Assembly
Instructions, but often only once (this may require some cross-referencing). For rivet
holes, do not count the "X"s shown on the drawing: Either the pitch (distance
between holes) is specified, or the number of holes (rivets) is specified. Updates to the
Assembly Instructions are published on the Zenith website (builder
resources area).

WORKING TOLERANCES: When assembling the kit, the
pre-formed parts fit together properly, but certain tolerances must be observed. Always
follow the specified dimensions as closely as possible, but remember to be practical and
use common sense (you're building a well-designed light aircraft, not a jet fighter).
Follow these tolerances:

TYPE

INCHES

METRIC

Rivet Spacing

+/- 1/8"

+/- 3 mm.

Assemblies

+/- 1/8"

+/- 3 mm.

Parts

+/- 1/16"

+/- 1.5 mm.

Contact Zenith Aircraft Company if
tolerances exceed those specified above.

Edge Distance (e)
=
3 X Rivet Diameter (d)

EDGE DISTANCE: When positioning
rivets, you must provide proper "Edge Distance" (the distance from the rivet or
rivet hole to the edge of the material) for structural strength: The edge distance should
be about three times the rivet hole diameter, usually approx. 10 mm. (with two times the
diameter the minimum acceptable edge distance):

Working with sheet metal: Handle sheet
metal parts with care. Sheet metal skins can easily be damaged (bent or kinked) when
handled. With larger skins, it is recommended that two people handle them (one on each
end).

Be careful with sharp corners and sheet-metal edges. Be
especially careful with children around sheet-metal corners at eye level (workbench
height).

Always wear proper protection when working with power
tools and around sharp sheet-metal parts.

Avoid scratching the material, but do not worry about
light surface scratches. On spars and longerons, transverse scratches and nicks must be
removed by filing and sanding lengthwise to remove scratches.

Don't throw away cut-offs - you may find a use for such
parts at a later date, or you can use them as "practice" pieces.

DRAWING AND MARKING: Before drilling
or positioning parts together, draw the position on the part(s) and hole marks. Use a
felt-tip marker to draw or soft pencil. Use a straight edge to mark straight lines. To
draw lines along a rib flange, it's often easier to simply use your hand (finger) as a
reference, or you can use a simple "marking" tool.

CORROSION PROTECTION: The aircraft has
been designed to minimize exposure to corrosion problems. In the usual environment, no
additional corrosion protection is required. However, you may want to add corrosion
protection, especially if you will operate or store the aircraft near salt water and/or in
a polluted industrial area. To add corrosion protection, the internal structure must be
primed with Zinc-Chromate (Zn-Cr) primer. This must be applied before parts are riveted
together. In the kit, pre-riveted parts, such as the wing spars, have been primed at the
factory. NOTICE: If using Zinc-Chromate primer, follow the primer manufacturer's
directions.

Questions or problems as you're building? Think your
question or problem through. Often the answer and solution is very obvious and logical. If
you can't solve it yourself, feel free to contact Zenith Aircraft Company with your
questions. Remember, it's best that you submit technical questions on paper: draw us a
sketch of your problem, and FAX or mail it to us for a prompt response, or call or email
us.

You will need all the kit parts that
make up the rudder tail section: You will notice that the parts are conveniently labeled
for easy identification. The first three numbers indicate the page number on which the
part appears in the Drawings and the last number is the specific part number as it appears
on the Drawing:

For example, the part labeled 6-T-4-1 is the first part
detailed on Page 6-T-4 of the Drawings.

Drawings: Only two pages of the actual Drawings are
needed to assemble the rudder: (6-T-0), 6-T-4 and 6-T-5, and the rudder assembly is
briefly outlined on Page 22 of the Construction Manual. The relevant pages have been
reproduced from the Drawings for this manual:

Inspect all the parts that make up the rudder section. Notice
that you can verify all part dimensions and specifications against those shown in the
Drawings (the drawings are actual blueprints and not just assembly drawings). Make
sure the parts are in good shape, dry and clean (remove tape, labels, etc.).

The Doublers are reinforcements for the SPAR section, positioned inside
the SPAR as shown on Drawing 6-T-4. To start, mark center lines along the inside of the SPAR doublers (in the middle of the Doubler flange),
and mark position hole for the first hole at the top of the Doublers (about 10 mm. from
the top on center line)

Place the SPAR flat on your table with the flanges facing up. Position one
doubler in the SPAR (firmly against SPAR flange - use clamps if required), extending it
approx. 30 mm. beyond the bottom of the SPAR, as shown on drawing 6-T-4 (1).

Once positioned properly, drill the marked hole (at top of doubler)
through into the SPAR (#30 drill). Repeat with other doubler. After drilling, place a
Cleco in the hole to clamp the assembly together. Using small clamp or vise, clamp the
Doublers firmly to the SPAR about 50mm up from the bottom of the SPAR so that the Doublers
are firmly positioned in place.

HINT ON DRILLING: When
drilling through an existing hole, avoid enlarging that hole. If you find this to be a
problem, consider under-sizing your first hole, and then re-drilling it to proper size
later. Also, don't press too hard with the drill (this will minimize drill
travel) and prevent the part underneath from bending under the drill's
pressure.

Next, the bottom of the
doublers must be trimmed to clear RR#1, as you'll notice RR#1 is angled up 27-degrees (SEE
DRAWING 6-T-4 (1)): Mark about 10 mm. up from the bottom of the doublers, and trim off the
angle on one side with sheet-metal snips. Repeat this for the other Doubler (remember that
there is a left & right Doubler).

As shown on Drawing 6-T-5, part 6-T-4-4 (Rear
Rib #1) and 6-T-4-6 (Rudder Spar) must be joined together.

6-T-4-6 (RR#1): Draw a straight line along the edge of the short
long flange of RR#1 (approx. 40 mm. from the flange radius angle or 10 mm. from the end
edge), and mark five (5) evenly spaced drill holes along the line (remember Edge
Distance). Pitch = approx. 20 mm. Pre-drill the 5 holes in the flange (#30 drill).

NOTICE

:
When drawing a rivet position line across a rib flange, draw the line straight so that it
is parallel to the flange radius (and not necessarily the flange edge).

6-T-4-4 (SPAR): Draw a straight and
perpendicular line along the bottom of the SPAR where RR#1 will be positioned (about 10 mm
from the bottom of the SPAR).

Center RR#1 to the SPAR and position RR#1 so that you can see the
drawn line on the SPAR through the drilled holes in RR#1. When positioning RR#1 to
the SPAR, the SPAR Doublers should extend only to (and not into) the bottom radius of
RR#1.

When positioned correctly (centered along
spar, and perpendicular to spar, extending about 30 mm beyond bottom of Spar) drill
through the pre-drilled rib flange holes into the SPAR.

Put a Cleco fastener in the drilled hole before proceeding to the next
hole. Drill all 5 holes, and fasten RR#1 to the SPAR with Clecos.

HINT: Never worry about using too many Clecos. The more Clecos you
use, the better your parts are being held together. However, you'll rarely need a Cleco in
every hole. For #30 holes, use the copper-colored Clecos (1/8")

HINT: Keep drill bits SHARP. The drill bit is probably dull if you
find you have to press too hard with your drill: sharpen or replace the bit.

RR#3: As
shown on Drawing 6-T-5, measure up 590 mm. (shown on Drawing as 610 mm. less
20 mm.) from the bottom of the SPAR assembly, and mark a straight line (perpendicular
to center of SPAR) across the SPAR where RR#3 will be positioned.

Mark 4 rivet holes, with the two end holes positioned in the center of the
SPAR Doubler (or approx. 10 mm. from edge, evenly spaced), and drill the 4 holes.

RR#4: Then measure up 970 mm. (from bottom of SPAR assembly) and
draw a straight line (perpendicular to center of SPAR) where RR#4 will be positioned, mark
the 3 rivet holes, and then drill through.

Positioning RR#2 (6-T-4-7) to
the SPAR

Place RR#2 inside spar as shown on Drawing
6-T-5

NOTICE: The Rib may require a little trimming to clear the radius
inside the SPAR assembly (and Doubler). If required, trim lightly with hand snips, evenly
on both sides. Don't trim too much.

RR#2 is
positioned approx. 340 mm. from the bottom of the SPAR assembly. Draw four hole
marks along line, evenly spaced (that will provide the required Edge Distance on the RR#2
rib flange). Drill the marked holes through the SPAR assembly.

Draw a center
line along the short Nose Rib flange, and center the Nose Rib across the drilled holes on
the SPAR. Notice that the Nose Rib flanges face DOWN when positioned on SPAR.

Line the Nose Rib
(NR) on the SPAR so that you can see the drawn center line on the NR flange through
the drilled SPAR holes. Drill through SPAR HOLES into the Nose Rib, and Cleco in position.
Drill all 4 holes.

Drilling the
Doublers (6-T-4-5)

Remove the Doublers from the SPAR, and draw
center lines along the Doubler edge that faces inside the SPAR (both Doublers). As shown
on Drawing 6-T-4, draw hole marks along Doubler.

HINT ON MARKING HOLES: When measuring the pitch (hole distance)
along a straight line, start by marking the first and last holes (with the proper edge
distance at both ends). Then proceed to mark the additional holes (in between the two end
marks) at the required pitch. Always try to keep the pitch consistent (unless otherwise
instructed): This may require adding or subtracting a millimeter or two to the pitch. As a
rule of thumb, it's better to add an extra rivet than to spare one when making these
slight adjustments to the pitch. Remember, the "x"s on the Drawings do not
always accurately illustrate the number of rivets: Read the requested Pitch (or specified
number of rivets), and remember the required Edge Distance.

Pitch = 40,
except top three holes where Pitch = 20. Notice that there are already some drilled holes
along the Doublers (from positioning the ribs). Space the new holes evenly (approx. pitch
40), and remember to provide proper edge distance at both the top and bottom of the
Doublers.

NOTE: DO NOT DRILL HOLES BETWEEN RR#2 and RR#3: The Upper
Bearings will be positioned here later.

HINT: Draw the hole marks on one Doubler first, then lay the second
Doubler alongside the first and simply transcribe the hole marks over to the first
Doubler. This way, you don't have to measure twice.

Cleco the Doublers back into the
SPAR, and drill the marked holes through both the Doubler and SPAR. Remember
to use additional Clecos as you drill (every 3 or 4 holes).

Cleco RR#1 back onto the SPAR assembly. Notice
that the Doublers extend beyond the bottom of the SPAR.

Mark and drill a hole in the bottom of the
RR#1 flange into the Doubler (approx. 20 mm. from the next hole above). Repeat on other
side.

Installing
RR#2 (6-T-4-7)

Draw a straight center line along RR#2
rib flange (remember to use the radius of the flange as the reference).

Position RR#2 in the
SPAR assembly, properly centered (as shown on Drawing 6-T-5). Remember to line the rib in
the SPAR so that you can see the drawn center line on the rib flange through
the drilled SPAR holes. Notice rib flanges must face up.

Drill through the
4 SPAR holes into RR#2 (use Clecos).

HINT: Extend a length of 2X2 beam over the edge of your table,
placing the SPAR on the 2X2, sandwiching RR#2 between the SPAR and 2X2.

Installing RR#3 (6-T-4-8) - SAME AS RR#2 instructions

Draw a straight center line along RR#3
rib flange (remember to use the radius of the flange as the reference).

Position RR#3 in the
SPAR assembly, properly centered (as shown on Drawing 6-T-5). Remember to line the rib in
the SPAR so that you can see the drawn center line on the rib flange through
the drilled SPAR holes. Position rib according to Drawing 6-T-5.

Draw a straight center line along RR#4 rib
flange (remember to use the radius of the flange as the reference).

Position RR#4 in the
SPAR assembly, properly centered (as shown on Drawing 6-T-5). Remember to line the rib in
the SPAR so that you can see the drawn center line on the rib flange through
the drilled SPAR holes.

Drill through the
3 SPAR holes into RR#4 (use Clecos).

HINT ON DRILLING: Do not press TOO HARD on the material when
drilling, so that you don't dent or stretch the material when drilling. You may find that
when drilling into a flange, you can bend the flange if you press down too hard with your
drill. If you find that you have to press hard, your drill bit
probably needs to be sharpened (or replaced).

The small Angle Strip Support (.025 x 35 mm x
75 mm - no part number provided in the Drawings) attaches the Tip Rib (TR) to the SPAR
section, as shown on the Drawing.

Mark and drill 4 holes
on the short side of the angle strip support (2 rows x 2, edge distance approx. 10 mm.).

Draw a straight
perpendicular line across the inside of the Tip Rib 50 mm. from the rib leading edge, and
position the short drilled end of the Angle Strip Support in the Tip Rib, lining the
radius of the Angle Strip Support to the drawn 50 mm. line.

Drill through the
4 holes into the Tip Rib, and Cleco in place.

Position the Tip
Rib and Angle Strip Support assembly to the SPAR, by placing the Angle Strip Support
inside the SPAR top, as shown on Drawing 6-T-5. Notice that the Tip Rib is positioned on
top of the SPAR (leaving a slight clearance).

Draw center lines across all
the rib flanges. These lines will be used later when positioning the skins over the ribs.

You have now completed the rudder
skeleton (internal structure). You must now take the assembly apart
(remove Clecos) and de-burr all the parts (drilled holes, and material edges). If applying
corrosion protection, apply after de-burring.

Cleco the parts back
together again, and rivet together. Remember to read Section 4 of this manual on riveting.
You may find that the holes don't match up together exactly (the rivet may not want to fit
in the hole) -- if this happens, simply re-drill the holes lightly.

Hint: Before taking an assembly apart (after having Clecoed it
together), it's a good idea to mark where the parts are located, so that you can easily
put the parts together again. To do this, run a line or two (with a marker) across two
joined parts. When you want to put the parts together again, simply realign the drawn
lines.

HINT: To de-burr hard-to-reach place (where it's difficult to
access both sides with a large drill bit, use a flat file to file away any burrs.

Since the rudder tail section tapers in width
(the rudder is wider at the bottom and narrows at the top), it is important that when it
lies flat on your workbench, the bottom trailing edge section of the rudder be raised to
compensate.

When laying the rudder skeleton assembly on your workbench, make sure you
add a small 3/4-inch wedge by the bottom trailing edge section of the rudder, to
elevate this part of the rudder off your flat workbench, so that the rudder assembly is
symmetrical when lying flat on the workbench. Failure to do so may force a
"twist" in the rudder. For best results, place the rudder on two 2x4
straight beams on the table: one along the rudder spar, and one along the trailing edge,
as illustrated below:

A small wood piece makes a good wedge. A standard 1"X2" piece of
lumber is actually 3/4" thick, and therefore is suitable.

Remember to use the 3/4" wedge each time you place the rudder flat on
your workbench, especially when drilling the rudder skins to the skeleton assembly, as
this determines how symmetrical your rudder will be.

HANDLE THE PRE-FORMED
SKINS WITH CARE. When working along the trailing edge of the pre-formed rear rudder
skin, do not squeeze trailing edge, as this may force a permanent kink in the
material. If applying pressure, apply over large area so not to damage skin.

Place the rudder
skeleton assembly inside the pre-formed rear rudder skin (lay flat on workbench), as shown
on Drawing 6-T-5, working on one side only.

NOTICE: Handle skins with care - they are fragile and may dent with
improper handling. Handle formed skins by the radius (placing hands inside radius at both
ends, and lifting).

NOTICE: The pre-formed skins are purposely supplied over-sized
(when applicable), and may require trimming of edges with hand snips.

The open skin edges are positioned just inside the radius of the SPAR, and
the top are positioned just inside the radius of the Tip Rip (top of the rudder assembly).
Mark the rib flange locations (center) along the outside edge of the skin, and then extend
the lines to the rear (trailing edge) of the skin. Also mark the trailing edge end of the
ribs on the skin.

RR#2 is positioned to meet RR#1 at the end (with slight clearance of
1 or 2 mm.).

Draw a line along the bottom of the skin (along RR#1): This section of the
skin will have to cut out.

Remove the skin from the SPAR assembly and cut out bottom angle (with hand
snips).

HINT: To cut out, first make a
rough cut about 1/2" from the final cut (marked line). Then make the final cut. This
is much easier, and allows for a clean final cut. To cut the other half of the skin,
simply lay the skin down flat on the table (folded at trailing edge), and transcribe the
cut angle to the other side (draw and then cut). After cutting, file edges so that they
are smooth.

Now that the
rib position (rivet) lines have been marked on the skin, and that the bottom of the skin
has been trimmed for size, mark the rib rivet holes on the skin, as shown on Drawing
6-T-5:

Tip Rib: Pitch =
40

RR#3 & 4: Pitch = 70

RR#1 & 2: Pitch = 40

For the two end ribs
(RR#1 and the Tip Rib), mark the position (rivet) lines about 8 mm. from the skin edge.

For the first
hole by the spar, keep an edge distance of about 35 mm. from the skin edge (for proper
edge distance on rib flanges)

For the first
hole by the trailing edge, measure in about 10 mm. from the marked rib ends (for proper
edge distance from rib ends).

Drill the marked
rib holes on the skin.

HINT: By laying the skin firmly down on the table (folded at
trailing edge), you can drill through both sides of the skin at once. This saves
the time of measuring and drilling the other side. Make sure both skin sides meet properly
at the edges, and remember to use Clecos.

Position the
rudder skeleton assembly inside the drilled skin again, making sure it is properly
positioned, and held firmly in place.

Drill holes
through the pre-drilled skin into the rudder ribs (again, align the center line of the rib
flange so that you can see it through the drilled skin holes).

HINT: To obtain a tight fit, drill the first hole in RR#3 by the
trailing edge holding skin firmly down, and then proceed to drill the trailing edge holes
on the other ribs. Then start drill the holes in toward the SPAR. This will
"push" the material outward, leaving a tight fit for the skins. It may be easier
with two persons to secure the skin in the proper and tight position. Remember to use
Clecos.

When drilling
near the trailing edge, be careful not to press too hard (do not drill right into the
other side of the rudder).

For the TIP RIB
and RR#1, don't use a center line on the rib flange: Position the skin edge just inside
(below) the rib radius for a nice finish.

Turn rudder over
on other side, and drill skin holes through to the ribs (just like the first side). Keep
the CLECOS in the first side (raise the rudder on several straight 2X4 beams to provide
clearance for the CLECOS).

Keeping the rear
skin Clecoed in position, place the nose skin in position on the rudder skeleton assembly
(with the Nose Rib and Tip Rib in position), as shown on Drawing 6-T-5.

For positioning purposes, slid the Nose Skin in between the Rear Skin and
the Spar, this is a helpful construction method to hold the Skin in place. After the skin
is drilled, it is riveted to overlap on top of the Rear Skin.

Notice that the pre-formed Nose Skin is supplied slightly oversized, and
may require some trimming to provide a nice finish.

NOTE: When positioning the Nose Skin make sure that the radius (leading
edge) of the skin is positioned directly across the leading edge (most forward) part of
the ribs.

HINT: To protect the nose skin, you may want to put a strip of
tape (flexible black "electric" tape) along the rounded leading edge of the Nose
Rib and Tip Ribs. This may avoid denting the delicate skin radius.

As for the
rear skin, draw the position of the two ribs (NR & TR) on the Nose Skin. Notice that
the Nose Rib is set at 90-degrees to the SPAR, and that the Tip Rib angle is already set
(by the rear skin).

Notice that the Nose Rib and Tip Rib have been crimped (a crimp is placed
on the flange to form the round edge of a rib - the crimp takes up the excess material in
the forming process). When positioning the rivet holes it is important to avoid an
area that has been crimped.

Mark a single
hole for the Tip Rib on the skin, just beyond the crimped area on the Tip Rib, and
mark 5 holes on the skin for the Nose Rib (pitch 40, avoiding crimped areas).

Mark both sides
of the Nose Skin, and drill the marked holes in the Nose Skin (both sides).

Once the Nose Skin has been drilled, reposition the Nose Skin to the SPAR
assembly firmly in place, making sure the leading edge of the skin is properly located.

SUGGESTION: You may find it easier to TAPE the skin in position,
using a sturdy "shipping" or "duct" tape, taping the both ends of the
Nose Skin tightly to the Rear Skin, on both sides.

Drill through
Nose Skin holes into the Nose Rib and Cleco. Repeat on the opposite side of the rudder.

Drilling the
Rudder Skins to the SPAR

Draw a straight line on the skins along
the center of the SPAR flange. Locate END HOLES (top and bottom of nose skin and rear
skin) and then mark holes every 40 mm. (pitch = 40) between end holes, as shown on Drawing
6-T-5. At the bottom of the rudder, add a hole into RR#1 (beyond the end of the SPAR). By
the Nose Rib, where the Nose Skin overlaps the Rear Skin, mark a hole on each side of the
Nose Skin edge.

IMPORTANT

:
When drilling the skins to the SPAR, it is critical that the assembly is straight and flat
(using 3/4-inch wedge at the rudder bottom trailing edge), as these holes will determine
that the rudder assembly is straight (and without a "twist"). Closing the rudder
assembly "boxes" the assembly together, giving it its strength and rigidity.

As the skins are Clecoed to the SPAR assembly, place the assembly on
straight 2X4 beams lengthwise to provide clearance for the Clecos, as pictured. Verify
with a level that your references are straight and level. Make sure that the rudder
assembly is firmly positioned and flat.

Once all the holes are marked, and when the rudder assembly is straight,
flat and level, drill the first hole in the center, Cleco the hole, and proceed to drill
outwards on both sides. (You must drill through both the skins and SPAR).

HINT: Once one side of the rudder is drilled, you may decide to
rivet the skins (after de-burring holes) in place on that side, before drilling the other
side. This often makes the rudder assembly easier to manage, with the Clecos being
replaced by rivets.

Turn the rudder over and proceed with the other side.

The Nose Skin overlaps the Rear Skin:
The edges of the oversized Nose Skin may need to be trimmed to provide an edge distance of
about 10 mm. beyond the rivet line (trim before riveting).

When you've completed drilling all the holes,
the top of the Nose Skin must be trimmed.

Draw a line
inside the Nose Skin along the top of the Tip Rib.

Remove the Nose
Skin, and trim off the excess material (with hand snips) and file the trimmed edge.

Riveting
the Skins to the Rudder Assembly

You've now completed all the hard work! Now,
all you need to do to complete the rudder is to de-burr the holes and to rivet the skins
in place.

Take the skins off the "skeleton" assembly (remove Clecos) and
de-burr all the parts (drilled holes, and material edges). If applying corrosion
protection, apply after de-burring.

Then, Cleco the parts back together again, and rivet together. If you find
that the holes don't match up together exactly (the rivet may not want to fit in the hole)
-- if this happens, simply re-drill the holes lightly.

NOTE: Do not rivet the bottom section of the Rear Skin to the Spar
Section at this time (the area below the Nose Skin to the bottom of the Spar). Later, when
you position the rudder to the aircraft's fuselage, you can add a rounded sheet-metal
fairing along the exposed spar section for a final finish.

Congratulations! You've now completed the rudder tail section,
which is a significant section of your own aircraft!

Attaching
the Rudder to the Fuselage

To attach the rudder section to the aircraft
fuselage, the Upper Bearings (6-T-4-2) and
bottom Rudder Tail Horn (6-T-5-3) must be
finished, positioned, and drilled into position. It's best to install these parts later
when you're ready to attach the rudder to the fuselage, as this will guarantee a perfect
match to the rear fuselage.