Cauliflower, long relegated to crudité platters and steamed vegetable medleys, is finally getting its due. Roasty-toasty browned florets and deep-golden, thick-cut cauliflower steaks are starring at vegetable-forward restaurants. David Myers, whose Silk Road–accented Hinoki & the Bird has been a culinary sensation since its opening last December, is a fan of the big crucifer.

In his simplest approach, Myers likes to cook cauliflower in a covered pan with a little olive oil so that it steams in its own liquid. Or he grills it to enhance the natural meatiness, starting the vegetable in foil on the grill, then finishing it for a minute or two unfoiled on the rack, directly over the coals, for some charring.

For this dish, Myers simmers the cauliflower in a bold broth of coconut milk, stock, and a homemade curry paste redolent with classic Thai aromatics: lime leaves, lemongrass, cilantro, cumin. Despite the relatively quick cooking time, “the cauliflower absorbs a lot of flavor,” Myers says. The original version of this dish, inspired by a trip through Thailand, has some raw cauliflower shaved on top at the end. This creates textural interest and “gives the dish a crisp, clean veggie flavor,” he says. That step is not in our simplified recipe, but it’s easy to try if you set a bit of stem aside and make shavings with a vegetable peeler.

Look for kaffir lime leaves at Asian markets, or substitute a teaspoon of grated lime rind. Shrimp paste is also available at Asian markets and freezes well. The homemade curry paste is worth making: It offers the best flavor and is much lower in sodium than commercial pastes.