For motors and rotors not found on this Web page, I would need you to send
a digital picture of the item using both top and bottom views. Please
remember that each motor or rotor in the body of this Web page have clickable
links to their individual picture.

Any rebuilt Telechron "B" rotor can have any shaft you'd need. Once I
open up a "B" rotor I can install any configuration of shaft or pinion.

Virtually every motor and rotor is no longer in production and
because of the rarity of these items, all prices are firm and there is no
trade discount of any kind.

I don't list or sell any 50 cycle rotors.

All motors, rotors, and coils carry a 2-year warranty. If failure
occurs during the warranty period the item will be replaced for free
but you would be responsible for the shipping costs to Mike's Clock Clinic.

If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor/rotor or I cannot salvage an
exact substitute, then I'll return your motor/rotor at no charge what-so-ever, unless
it was expedited service.

My turnaround is 4 to 6 weeks for motor/rotor service, 3 to 4 months if the clock is
sent with the motor/rotor, and 6 to 8 months for a movement overhaul and expedited service
adds $100.00 and if you choose expedite and I cannot return a working motor then the
$100.00 is still due. If after the normal waiting period the motor still is not
satisfactory then it is returned at no charge. Expedited service take about 2
weeks for motor/rotor service, one month if the clock is sent with motor/rotor, or
the movement needs to be overhauled.

Most rebuilt (overhauled) original motors and rotors sell for between
$115.00 and $165.00. The same holds true for a N.O.S. (New Old Stock) which
means an old but unused rotor/motor and for used but working.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be
advised that shipping will jump from $15.00 to $100.00 with everything else staying
the same. The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my
labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement. Labor adds $50.00 and return
shipping adds $50.00, and I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long.

I cannot guarantee that the motor/rotor replacement will fix you clock's problem
100% of the time, simply because the clock movement (mechanism) may need work as well.

Motors are complete units with wires to be connected to an electrical power
source. Rotors are units that require another part, usually a coil, in
order to generate the electro magnetic field which all electric
"drives" need. Another way to look at it is that motors can be
separately run outside the movement and rotors cannot.

All rebuilt's from whatever source, will have some noise. Rebuilt's will be
significantly quieter but all will carry some noise.

Drilling holes was often done by the amateur in order to extend the life of
the rotor. These holes were used in order to add oil to the rotor and at
one time oil may have helped but that does nothing for accumulated dirt and old
coagulated oil and nothing for plate and wheel wear.

I use synthetic grease and synthetic oil so in theory there should never be
a need for more oil.

Original coils run $115.00 and this includes shipping. I no longer have
a source for newly manufactured coils, so when my stock is gone it is gone.

Many past repair people just grabbed any coil that they could get there hands
on and for longer life of the clock and rotor, you should seriously consider
replacing the coil if yours is not the proper wattage.

You MUST add $15.00 to each order (Canada is $35.00) to include
return shipping by U.S. Priority Mail.

Some have indicated to me a fear of the clock shorting out or becoming a fire hazard.
3 If that's the case then purchase a power strip and only plug the clock into it.
This way you have a fuse to stop an overload before it feeds back into your household
or office wiring. Honestly, I have never heard of an electric clock causing a fire
but putting in a power strip may ease some fears.

Telechron Rotors

All my Telechron rotors are either nickel or copper and NOT aluminum.
The exception is the "S" rotor which has always been aluminum.
The aluminum rotors were cheapened versions of the nickel or copper rotors.
GE, who always had a stake in Telechron, finally purchased it outright in the
70's and that's when the aluminum rotors appeared.

The aluminum "B-13" rotor can be rebuilt. The process takes about 4 to 5
days and the cost on either is $150.00 plus $15.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00),
which brings your total cost to $165.00. Typically aluminum rotors have a M #
of 3300 or higher. If you do not have a rotor to send, then add $75.00 for
a total of $240.00. I have some in stock and that is why the turn around is
faster for the "B-13's".

The "H" rotor is far too fragile for rebuilding and I substitute a copper
and nickel "H" rotor and that is why the cost is $150.00 total if you send
an aluminum "H" rotor.

The aluminum "H" rotor is the standard 4 to 6 week turn around.

The one disadvantage of an aluminum cased rotor is that Telechron used fiber
board plates and then coated them (dipped) in phenolic resin whereas the pre-aluminum
rotors used copper plates. Three of the seven wheels, in the "B" rotor, are
also phenolic resin and that material was used to reduce noise of the wheels meshing
but actually the plates used increased the overall noise of the rotor. Phenolic
plates will never last as long as copper and the material was used to reduce overall
production costs but should last for years. It is because of these plates that the
noise level of any rebuilt aluminum rotor will be greater than the copper plates of
original rotors. So I strongly suggest you do NOT use an aluminum rotor for clocks
located in your sleeping area.

All aluminum "B" and "H" rotors are replacement rotors. Meaning that they
were manufactured after your clock was made in order to save production costs on replacements.

Most of the parts were identical to the rotor they replaced (the "B-3") but the
case was aluminum instead of nickel and the plates were pressed wood dipped
in phenolic resin, instead of copper.

If the movement still has the rotor plate, a small plate covering then end of the
rotor and held on with the 2 mounting machine screws that pass through the plate,
you will see "Mod" for model. This # almost always starts with 59 then followed
by the # of the original rotor. I.E. 59M2377.

For an extra $75.00, I can replace your aluminum cased "B-13" rotor with
an older nickel cased "B-3" rotor. The "B-3" has copper plates and will
generally last 2 to 4 times longer then their aluminum counter parts ($325.00 total).

I'll not ship any rotor or motor until I am paid. Once the old rotor is received,
I then rebuild the rotor and test and it generally takes about 4 to 6 weeks, then
it is shipped and will carry a 2-year warranty, once payment is received.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will
jump from $15.00 to $100.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase covers return shipping
and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement ($250.00 total).

Installing the Telechron "B" rotor is a fairly straight forward job. There are two large, usually brass,
screws which hold the entire "motor". The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil. The only "catch" is
that there is a pinion gear screwed onto the flat portion on the shaft of the rotor. This must be removed
before you can remove the "motor". Most times the entire movement must be completely removed from the
case in order to access this pinion. Sometimes it is a little tough in locating and loosing this screw
because the clock may have stopped with the flat portion of the rotor's shaft facing away from your
access point. You need to loosen this screw and then the pinion will slide off and this can happen
when you remove the "motor".

A VERY important note is that the pinion MUST be placed back in the same position and the same
orientation on the rebuilt rotor as it was on the dead rotor. This installation can usually only be
done once the rebuilt rotor and the rest of the "motor" is installed in the clock's movement.

There is a brass collar at the point where the shaft protrudes from the rotor. This collar must be
seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor shaft enters the clock movement. This
collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

The word "TOP" is located on the rotor and that word should be facing straight up so that the rotor
can self lubricate. In other words, the word "TOP" should be facing your ceiling. If you do
not install the rotor correctly, it will shorten its life significantly.

Another area of caution is the coil. The coil has two very fine wires connecting to the larger wires,
which eventually connect to the power source. These break very easily and please DON'T try to pull
the motor away from the movement because this may break the wires on the coil. And any extra or rough
handling of the coil can and will result in wire breakage. So please handle the "motor" with great care.

To determine whether or not you need a coil, you can take a Multimeter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $10.00
at any hardware store, and with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end of the
wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading. Just about any reading is a good one and if you
can see the coil #, that represents the Ohm reading so if your coil is a # 60 coil then you should get about 60 or 600 ohms
depending on the setting of the meter.

Installing the Telechron "S" rotor is a fairly straight forward job. There are two large, usually brass,
screws which hold the entire "motor". The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil. The only
catch is that the rotor MUST be placed back in the same position and the same orientation on the NOS rotor as
it was on the dead rotor. So please be sure to mark the position of the old rotor so that you have a
reference point because both the running of the clock or timer and position of the rotor depends on
the NOS rotor being placed in exactly as the old rotor.

There is a brass collar at the point where the gear protrudes from the rotor. This collar must
be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor gear enters the clock movement. This
collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

Another problem is that the "S" rotor is usually held by the field very tightly. Sometimes I have
to use a flat screwdriver in order to remove the old rotor. Since the casing of the rotor is made of
aluminum, installing can be difficult because your cannot use any type of pliers to force the rotor into the
field because this might damage the NOS rotor.

I generally install the "S" by hand using only finger pressure. I have not tried this but I suppose
you can use a press or large flat surface vise and force the rotor into the field. Just be sure that
you use the minimum force to install the rotor because of potential damage to the rotor.

I no longer work on "F" Telechron rotors

The type "F" rotor looks like a viewer you look through at the top of a building or
scenic area. There are two screw holders built right into the steel cast, and this rotor generally
turns at the rate of 3.6 R.P.M.

All "F" rotors cost $200.00 plus $10.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00) and have a 2-year warranty,
which brings your total cost to $210.00 assuming you send the old rotor at time of payment.

I must have the old rotor or add $100.00. Aluminum rotors will NOT
qualify as an exchange. Typically aluminum rotors have a M # of 3300 or
higher. My turn around time is about 4 to 6 weeks.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will
jump from $10.00 to $80.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase covers return shipping
and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement ($280.00 total).

I'll not ship the rotor/motor until I received payment. I ONLY accept money
orders, certified checks, or company checks for payment but repeat customers may use
personal checks. Normally shipping takes place one week or so after I receive
payment and thanks !

SORRY No Sangamo's are available as of 01/04/06

A special note on the Seth Thomas clocks that used Sangamo motors.
I have these motors in stock but please be aware that my experience
indicates that these clocks ran way pass the "normal" amount of time
as compared to other electrics. Therefore, it is very likely that this
clock has bearing plate wear and gear pivot wear because of the
unusually long running time.

I mention this because the motor I'll be sending to you will be
in great working order but, it may not solve your problem and most
likely the movement needs a complete overhaul because of these
specific wear problems.

All Sangamo motors cost $150.00 plus $10.00 priority mail (Canada is $35.00) and have a 2-year
warranty, which brings your total cost to $160.00 assuming you send the old motor at
time of payment.

I must have the old motor or add $50.00 to each option. Having your
specific motor rebuilt my turn time becomes around 4 to 6 weeks.

If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that shipping will
jump from $10.00 to $80.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase covers return shipping
and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00 for the replacement.

If a Sangamo motor is purchased and it does not solve your clock's
problems there will be $30.00 "restocking" fee, and unless I get the
exact motor I sent to you initially, there will be no refund at all. The
motor will be marked for identification purposes.

Sorry for all that but unless the movement is sound on any electric
clock, you are wasting both my time and your time.

I would like payment by money order, certified check, personal check,
business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take
credit cards. I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and
Square take 3%. I only take credit cards if you are in the USA or Canada.

The 3% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.

With Pay Pal you can pay me directly using "friends and family" where
you absorb all fees and I'm paid the full amount. There would be nothing
added amount to the final fill if you absorb all fees. Here you log on
to Pay Pal and send me the full amount of my bill, so there is no E-voice
coming from me with this method and you will be charged all Pay Pal fees
on top of my final bill.

With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail
address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.

You do have to be a member of Pay Pal in order to issue a payment but
you may use Square without any membership or additional Square fees but
the 3% will be added to your total bill as with Pay Pal.

With Square, I can also take the credit card information which includes
the number, expiration date and the last 3 or 4 #'s of the security code
from the back of the card BUT that adds 3.5% to the final bill. I'd prefer
to avoid this method but it is an option.

All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me
for taking your credit card.

If you already have a Pay Pal account and want to see my verification at Pay Pal, then see:

It should be known that ALL work is done in house
and by me personally. The exception is fabricating a
new replacement part, which is very rare.

What if the clock needs more service?

Sometimes the electric clock needs to be overhauled even thought all the electrical parts are replaced.

Electric clocks and especially chiming electrics, will wear out and rebuilt rotor or not they will not run or run
accurately. One quick check it to grab the center of the minute hand with your fingers and see if it wobbles. Meaning
that there should be a very slight amount of "up, down, or side to side" play. If the "play" is greater than a mm or so then
there is a good chance the movement will have to be rebuilt in order for the clock to run properly.