GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

Comments

McNamara- Picked up my black Base2500 4wd this past weekend. love it! Ordered it Feb24 after reading truckworld.com article. Put 220 miles on it Sunday- Front a/c is fine for the passengers. Got the climate pkge, but not the appearance pkge, so there's no roofrack. Paid 1k over invoice, but didnt haggle..With this economy, dealer will want your biz...good luck

You probably need to buy an aftermarket rack system, like a Yakima or Thule. Both will have straight crossbars that clamp onto the lateral rails. Then buy the accessories that they offer to keep canoes from sliding off. You may not need them now, though, since the crossbars are now straight and not curved.

Which bulbs did you install and where? I have 9006 Platinum bulbs in my 2001 YXL low beam headlamps with no problems. If the lamps melted, there was probably a short. I know people who have added PIAA's and other bulbs with higher wattage into their headlamps, without any problems. Did both lamps melt, or only one? You may be able to get PIAA to reimburse you if you can prove that it was an internal short in the bulbs that caused the issue.

Is one of the items that really helps if you have kids - particularly if any of them tend to car sickness. Our 95 LS has it and it's been fantastic - really makes the 'way' back seat comfortable. I wouldn't get one of these without it.

There is a TSB out about a seam that wasn't sealed properly at the factory in the rear wheel well and how water can get into the interior. At my web site, http://suv.s5.com I have a section devoted to problems and defects. On that web page, I have pictures of my Yukon, showing the defective seam (prior to getting it sealed).

Currently Nifty/CatchAlls are in the mold to be built May/June time frame. If you are looking as Mitch43 is - Highland/Grobroski offers a cargo liner - Black only - It will velcrow to the back side of your second row seat & stays attached when it is laid down & covers the complete cargo area when seat is up or down. Have several customers with this product in GM/FORD/Jeeps... Works Great and will protect your carpet. Good Luck. Another option - I think a Suburban seat will bolt up if you can locate one.

Would HIGHLY recommend rear A/C. It doesn't cost all that much more. Remember someday it will surely help for RESALE!!!. Not to mention the comfort of others in the HOT SUMMER time if riding in the back seats, especially if you order a dark color that will absorb heat even more. It just makes good since to me to have rear a/c. I have seen numerous units set for a Long time before someone finally takes it I/I rear a/c.

The antenna on my 2001 Suburban "folds" front to back. Not sure if you have the same antenna, flip it down (toward you) and check the back for a hollow set screw that controls side to side movement, you may have one that is very tight. You will love the autoride. Good luck.

Sorry to hear about your foglights. I tried that same upgrade to 50 watt bulbs, but yanked them out when the insides started to blister. I ended up going with the 38 watt Sylvanias. The minor damage was done already, though. I don't think there has been any more damage with the 38 watts. I intend to swap out the foglights in the future with a set of PIAA's or CATZ, as I think the stock OEMs are dismal in their function (light dispersion / beam pattern), even with the 38 watt bulbs.

PIAA does not make upgrade bulbs for the type that fits into the OEM housing. Your only options would be to buy a new aftermarket foglight, replace with new OEMs (go to GMPARTSDIRECT.COM), or EBAY for a used set.

Oh, and don't feel bad - after I blistered mine, I found out on another forum that other guys have melted theirs like you did.

I have been trying to decide whether to buy a Yukon XL or a Denali XL. The Denali XL interested me due to more horsepower mostly. However, my father in law, who is a mechanical engineer, told me that the AWD system requires fluid transfers which bleed a lot of power and he thought that the Denali with the 6.0 would be more sluggish than the Yukon XL with the 5.3. That caught my attention because why pay extra for the 6.0 in the Denali if your not getting the extra horsepower of the 6.0 to the tires. It looks like my father in law was right: the 0-60 on the Yukon XL is 8.7 seconds and the Denali XL is 9.2 seconds. This is consistent with my test drive of both vehicles. The YXL had better acceleration than the DXL. I got the Denali XL figures from http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/previews/2000/November/200011_preview_gmc_yukon.xml

The Yukon XL figures are from the specifications in the Yukon XL 1500 section of Edmunds.com.

What is the best way to put yakima racks on a 2001 Suburban with no current roof rack? It looks like I will put four of those adapters that let you use the rain gutter towers on the roof. I worry about leaks and rusting and would like advice.

I have a 2001 1500 YXL with about 2500 miles on it. For those lurking, me and the family love the SUV. Plenty of space, power, ......you name it. The Autoride is a worthwhile option. We briefly considered the Sequoia & Expedition and are very happy with our choice.

I read in the manual that the computer will sense the driving pattern and manner that the vehicle is being driven and indicate when it is time to change the oil. My question is: is this also true for the 1st oil change, or is there "break-in" oil that needs to be changed at a different time interval ? I didn't read anything in the manual, but would hate to rely solely on the computer to tell me, when I should have done something else.

i would suggest changing at 3K miles whether computer tells you to or not.

Especially for the first one. There may be tiny metal shavings lurking around.

My last oil change was done with only 2600 miles. I did it because the light came on. Seemed early but i dont wanna take a chance. So far i have 13500 miles on my silverado. Light has only come on once.

first oil change was done at 2750 milessecond at 5998 milesthird at 9100 milesfourth at 11700 miles

In order to properly compare acceleration numbers, the vehicles should be run on the same course by the same driver. I have seen many cases where acceleration numbers vary based on the test.

The feel of acceleration is definitely better with the Denali XL than it was with the Yukon XL with the 3.73 axle. The feel of the Yukon XL with the 4.10 axle was very close to the Denali XL, but I thought the Denali XL acceleration was slightly better. The full time all wheel drive definitely helped make the Denali feel more sure footed.

I would not buy a DXL over a standard YXL with a 4.10 axle because of acceleration differences. I would buy one if I desired the following equipment (price difference $4000-$4500):

Hi,been a long time since I posted last. My 2000 Yukon XL slt just hit 25,000 miles.This truck is awesome!I have added the BUSHWACKER OE style flares, they look real nice, but are a drop off from the color of my factory running boards. I swapped out my deathstones at 5K, my Michelins are riding fine.The only problem I had was a transmission leak at 13K,took the dealer 7 days, first he thought it was a gasket , so he ordered 2 of them, after it was still leaking, he put in the second one, and it still leaked ! he had to wait for another gasket 4 days, only to realize it was the pump itself and not the gasket.I also had 2 window motors/regulators changed (hasn't everyone?).Although I love this truck, I always told myself not to get a first year production of a new model, and with all the ultra sensitive parts and electronics in this truck ,I am definetly getting an extended warranty , just to be on the safe side.Does anyone know the procedure to remove the driver side door panel?Thanks

Checked the Burlington Northern - Santa Fe website (www.bnsf.com) today to track location of my 2001 Z71 by entering VIN. It's heading west, in Sweetwater Texas this evening. Due in San Bernardino, California on April 24. Order date was March 1st. Looks like I will be able to take delivery by the April 30 deadline for GMAC's 1.9% financing in Southern California on 2001 Burbs.

The 0-60 acceleration figures showing the DXL is a half second slower than the YXL are both GM supplied figures. I think that is as fair a comparison as one is going to get.

The Denali does have the other things that you mentioned which are worth something, you are right, although the 17" wheels create a problem because the undercarriage space for the spare only accomodates a 16" wheel.

From what I can tell, Yakima does not have a fitment YET for a burb without the factory rack. When and if they do, they will clip up by the front and rear doors, and your load will be right over the doors. I don't know if a "short roof line" kit will be available. I had a 1995 Honda Passport without the factory roof rack which I used a Yakima rack with towers and clips by the doors to haul bikes around with. When I decided to purchase a RocketBox, I also decided to purchase the factory rack (as an accessory through Honda), and purchase the Railrider towers to use. My thinking was that I wanted the RocketBox further back, rather than overhanging the windshield.

This is what I would do in your situation: Purchase the factory roof rack through gmpartsdirect.com, and if you want to stay with Yakima, get the doublecross towers and bars. The look would be cleaner than with the gutter mount adapters, and less of a chance of rust. If you have your dealer install the factory roof rack, the bonus would be a warranty with it, so rust would not be a worry. You just won't get a discounted price like you would through gmpartsdirect.

You can do a "customized" appraisal by going to the main page (www.edmunds.com) and clicking on Used, Chevy, find your Suburban model and then click on the customized TMV appraisal. Without any options, I came up with $1,500 tops as a dealer used car (I wonder if a dealer would certify one this old with this many miles?).

My son, grandson and I just spent several hours today at the GM auto motion show at Stone Mt Park in Georgia. The setup is similar to the EdmundsLive wherein one can drive all types of GM vehicles as well compare to the competition on the spot (Fords, Mercedes, BMW, etc). The favorite with all was the 3 new Corvette convertibles (Vets were not available at Edmunds).

When we were exiting the facility, we were given a rebate worth $500 toward the purchase of a new GM vehicle if purchased between 4/19/01 and 7/31/01. As luck would have it, I picked up the new suburban yesterday (4/19) and did not have the rebate form. I went to the dealer this evening (4/20)with the rebate. As my saleman had not turned in the paperwork to the office, he re-did the deal to give me the $500 in addition to the $1000 loyalty form for previous Tahoe or Suburban owners. These rebates were applied to the GM supplier price (GMS+4%) that I paid for the '01 2500 4WD LT Suburban. The beauty of this deal (in addition to the rebates) was that I did not pay the destination charge ($765) nor the regional advertisment price ($455), nor documentation fee (normally $85-$150). Before rebates, the price was $150 over Edmunds invoice.

I had the base blackwall Firestone tires (LT245-70Rx16) replaced with OWL Michelins (P265-70Rx16) LTX M/S and the stupid narrow GM running boards replaced with the lighted Cord running boards (the same type as on the Ford Expedition)

[1] click on the "tracing tools" link[2] click on "custom tracing"[3] on the tracing sreen, enter the last 8 digits of your vin (no "bn" needed) in the equipment box and make sure you check the vin box below

if your burb is not on a train at the time, you wont get the info.

As of yesterday, my Z71 was in Clovis, NM. Today, I am unable to locate it when I enter info. Maybe it's being switched from one train to another?