Aguada

Travelling west on PR-115 towards Rincón you’ll pass the Ann Wigmore Natural Health Institute (787/868-6307, http://www.annwigmore.org) at km 20 on the edge of AGUADA. The centre is dedicated to teaching the late Dr Ann Wigmore’s “Living Foods Lifestyle” through its two-week programme – see the website for details. Wiggie’s Shop on site sells all sorts of health foods, books and related products. Near the Ann Wigmore Institute, don’t miss the celebrated roadside stall on PR-115 at km 20 known as A El Original Kioskito de la 115 (787/868-3124), a popular vendor of sweets, cakes and snacks for over 25 years. Try the limber de coco, frozen coconut milk cake, (or the piña, uva, maiz or “cheez-cake” versions) for less than $1.

Central Aguada has little to offer, but the town’s quirky eating options are worth a try, with A El Plátano Loco (787/868-0241, http://www.platanoloco.com) top of the list. You’ll find it south of town off PR-411 at km 5 – look out for the signs to “Universidad del Plátano” and turn right beyond “Parada 5”. As befits the name, everything on the menu features plantains, the savoury green banana: a bizarre but satisfying array of lasagne, pizza, sandwiches and the isla de plátano, the signature mofongo shaped like Puerto Rico and stuffed with meat. Try the sweet flan de plátano for dessert.