A frisky crowd. An open kitchen with cooks so attractive they could be waiters. And camera phones aimed at executive chef Brian Malarkey, who was cheerily hemmed in by diners in cocktail dresses the other night.

A field trip over to the Fifth and Market restaurant can be exhilarating. Using logic to decipher its Sudoku-like menu turns smart people on. (Under “Farm” dinner offerings — “butt, brandied apples + bacon emulsion 24.”) And Malarkey admirers – he’s been on Bravo and TLC – enjoy stalking the celebrity chef with their eyes. Bold ones get his picture.

Searsucker has many small plate offerings, like this spicy shrimp and bacon grits dish.
— John R. McCutchen

Then there’s Searsucker’s “You’ve arrived, San Diego” design — red brick walls, lassoed light fixtures, masculine Americana you’d expect in a bachelor’s loft. The soundscape is like a 7,000 sq. ft. gallery of gossip, with a DJ four nights a week. On a recently packed Friday night, the urgent beat and good-looking diners made Searsucker feel more like an after-hours warehouse party than a 7-month-old Gaslamp restaurant.

Yeah, Searsucker is sexy. Comparatively speaking, the food is just cute.

Malarkey’s American classics — with a twist! — are not roll-your-eyes-back gourmet greatness. They’re approachable. There are universal hip-restaurant dishes, like duck fat fries, and basic preparations of meat, poultry, pork, and fish. The sides (everything’s a la carte) are satisfying. Try the uncomplicated, Southwestern-inspired fresh corn kernels with chorizo and jalapeño. The bowl of fried Brussels sprouts is balsamic vinegar heavy.

For small plates, the former “Top Chef” finalist does smooth, buttery comfort Southern bites, like “shrimp ‘spicy’ + bacon grits.” There’s also the ubiquitous short rib. Here it’s a 4-ounce starter braised in local Lost Abbey beer until the meat practically dissolves under fork pressure. Served with a tasty tangle of fried onions, it’s still the most covered song in the world.

The chipotle-crusted mahi mahi entrée felt out of tune over two visits. The meaty white fish itself was juicy, but too much of that Moab desert-colored chili dries the palate.

I remain a fan of Searsucker’s sweet and nutty duck breast/duck leg confit with pomegranate and pistachio. I could be convinced to eat more of the Sucker Bar, a giant sticky take on the Twix candy bar. And I wouldn’t kick the fried sweetbread croutons out of that tangy bed of bacon, egg and spinach salad.