Sam Sifton Really Doesn’t Want You to Eat at Imperial No. Nine

If the first sixteen paragraphs of Sam Sifton’s no-star drubbing of Sam Talbot’s new seafood restaurant, Imperial No. Nine, don’t drive home the point clearly enough (“It can be awful there”), the Times critic ends his review by suggesting that guests of the Mondrian Soho, where Imperial is housed, are better served by taking a trip uptown to eat at Asia de Cuba — and then actually provides the restaurant’s address and phone number. Talk about adding insult to, well … a bunch of other insults. [NYT]