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Friday, March 27, 2009

As promised this is my fully lined Front Zippered Pouch Tutorial. It is easy enough even for a first-timer. I have designed the tutorial in such a way that if you like, you can opt for two contrasting fabric for the front.

As for me, I wanted to use the fabric that I used for my Chinese New Year bag because it is so fabulous. I'm not using any contrasting fabric but for you, the option is there.
Front view

Zipper - anything from 8 1/2". No metal teeth! We gonna sew over it.
I used a 14" zipper. The excess will be cut off.

Note: Just to be clear. When sewing the zipper to the OUTER or LINING, sew from end to end.

2. Assemble the following sandwich:
Lining front top facing up
Zipper facing up
Match long side

Sew zipper to lining(1/4" seam). Avoid sewing too close to the zipper.

This is what you should get.

3. Assemble the following sandwich:
Lining front bottom facing up
zipper facing up
Match long side

Sew zipper to the lining (1/4" seam). Avoid sewing too close to the zipper.

This is what you should get.

4. Assemble the following:
Zipper facing up
Outer front top facing down

Sew outer front top to the zipper from the LINING side. This is so you have the sewn seam to guide you. Sew just a little to the left of the sewn seam to hide it when you look at the zipper right side up.

This is what you should get. See how you can't see any seams made by the lining?

Sew outer front bottom to the zipper. Similar to step 4, sew from the lining side and sew a little to the left of the sewn seam.

This is what you should get.

6. Press fabric.
Top stitch the edges next to the zipper.

7. Assemble the following:
Lining Back facing up
Zipper facing up (zipper pull on the left)
Outer Back facing down

Sew across the TOP of the pouch through ALL THE LAYERS. Be careful your layers do not shift. I used a 3/8" seam.

This is what you should get.

8. Flip the sandwich around until you have the outer on one side and the linng on the other side. A little explanation here. I have determined that the escape route to turn the pouch right side out is through the BOTTOM of the lining. As such, you can't sew the bottoms of the outer and lining together. That would seal our escape route.

What we will do here is to sew the bottom of the lining and outer SEPARATELY.

With right sides together, sew across the bottom of the OUTER.

9.
With right sides together, sew across the bottom of the LINING. Be sure to leave a GAP large enough to turn right side out.

This is what you should get. Separate seams for bottom and lining and gap in lining.
Now is also a good time to make sure your pouch is even (outer and lining should match in size). Trim if necesary.

10. Fold the strap in half along the long side.
Fold 1/4" seam along the 2 long sides. Press.

Topstitch across both long edges.

11. Fun part. Turn pouch right side out. Cut off excess zipper so it aligns with the sides.

12.
Fold strap in half. With pouch right side out, align raw edge of strap with left side of pouch.

Sew strap to front layers only. See picture for better understanding.

13.
Flip around until you have the above position. See picture.
IMPORTANT: Be sure the zipper is OPEN.

Sew across the side seam through ALL THE LAYERS. I used a 3/8" seam. Start with the side which has the zipper ends open. Be sure to hold the zipper ends closed so you will have a nice finish. Reinforce the areas over the strap and zipper.

Do the same for the other side seam.

This is what you should get.

14. Trim edges. Turn right side out through the gap in lining. Hand sew the gap and you're all set!

Front
Back
Lining front
Lining back
No gaps!

As always, please let me know if you spot any errors! Thanks. I hope you have fun making fabulous front zippered pouches.

New! (added on 15 July 2009)
I've created a group pool on FLICKR where you can post pics of your creations from using this tutorial. Click projectsbyjane group. I hope everyone will join. Thanks.

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Below are my bag patterns which are available for sale at Etsy (instant download) and Craftsy (instant download). Clicking on the images will take you to my Etsy shop.

21
comments:

Hi! I have been wracking my brain for days trying to figure out how a pouch like this could be lined with no exposed raw edges on the inside. Thank you soooo much for figuring it out and for posting your tutorial - can't tell you how much I appreciate it. I'm going to go make one now!

You are a brilliant lady, oh Jane of Singapore - I made my first zipper bag tonight using your technique :) I forgot to sew the tab on mine but I did post a picture on my blog today and linked back to you - I'll be making many more of these little beauties! Thank you for figuring this out for the rest of us!

Is picture 13 the right one? Can you also do it with one piece of fabric for lining and one for outside? Like this http://www.nicolemdesign.com.au/tips/index.html#pyramidI ask because I tried a variation on her instructions, and got kind of lost and after some unpicking and neat slipstitching of both lining and outer my purse ended up like yours, but I have never worked out if it can be done on purpose.I love how you say "I dedicate my sewing life to make bags which hide these raw seams."By doing these tutorials, you multiply the effect - more bags, fewer exposed seams, Hooray!

What are the finished dimensions? I want to make one to hold clean cloth wipes in so they aren't just floating around my bag anymore. Just wanted to know the final size so I will know if I should make any "adjustments". Thank Cindy

Awesome tutorial! I found you through various links on other blogs and I just wanted to let you know that I have now also linked to you in a post as an alternative (meaning better!) way to finish some front-zip shoulder bags.

Hello! I just came across this blog a few days ago. I even put a little pocket inside to hold an id. Thanks for putting up such great directions. Now I have a little gift to bring to my mom when I see her! ~Carrie

I've been meaning to try out this tutorial for a long time and now that I did I have to say it's pure genius.I paid about $10 for a similar pattern that uses binding on the lining and is nowhere near as good.Your way is perfection.Thank you!Margaret

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My name is Jane. I live in Singapore with my 2 kids, hubs, a few hundred bags and a growing bag pattern empire. Thanks for visiting my blog. This is where I share my journey thru' bag making. Okay, it's not always about bags but one thing I can promise you - every bag has a story.