Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!Details

In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.

Description

This wall has good rock for The Superstitions, which isn't saying much. Fun, mostly moderate climbs from 3-4 pitches with awesome scenery. Seems remote despite it's close proximity to the Peralta trailhead.

Getting There

Park at the Peralta trailhead. Take the Bluff Springs Trail for about 1.5 miles over a ridge and into Bark Canyon. Turn left and scramble up the climbers trail to the base of the cliff.

Comment Type:

Barks Canyon left side of wall has several climbs on it. There is a 5.11b "Bandito Route" 3 pitches partially bolted line (starts on slab with rivet missing bolt to overhang protected by at least one old bolt) that looks tough and to the left of it is the 5.6 start to "Stroke it Gently" 10b, "The Long Road" 5.9 and "Glory Road" 5.7 all these climbs are four pitches, all start on the 5.6 crack protected with gear and two pitons. Further left I think there are two more climbs. The first one is called "Big Bruno"5.9 4 pitches (5.9,5.8,5.7,?). The second I think is "The Long Lead" 5.8 4 pitches.
Feb 10, 2010

Oh and by the way when you start on the trail make sure its the trail breaking off immediately to the right less then ten steps form the parking lot. I took the wrong trail initially. I'm not the only one to make that mistake. It winds up to the right over a ridge providing spectacular views of a catus filled valley. It winds up and down until it drops down to a creek. Its a pretty relaxed hike. Before you reach the creek there is an obvious climbers trail to the left marked with cairns. You can see the cliff on the far left side. You'll recognize it from the pictures on this site. The whole approach should not take more than 45 min.
Feb 10, 2010

Gorgeous rock and great routes. Single rope rap possible to descend, but it takes 3: 1 from the anchors that are slightly off summit (and out of sight from summit down the east side) to the big ledge on top of p. 2 of The Long Lead, then another single line to the anchors on top of p. 1 of Glory Road, then the last to the ground. Great anchors in great shape.
Apr 5, 2016

Was up there this weekend and found two stuck ropes to the left of the Long Lead. Initially thought they were knotted together, but on the decent realized they were separate, one appearing to be hopelessly stuck in a crack, and one with a knot about 20 feet off the ground. Looking like someone had bailed quickly, on our way back to the base we climbed up and freed the one rope with the knot, with the plan to get it back to the owner. In hindsight, we realized that someone may have been using the ropes to work that line, as it doesn't appear to be on MP. Either way, send me or "Danhandle" a message with the rope's description and a good story (if you did indeed bail) and we'll get your rope back to you. The fixed rope is still up there. Cheers!
Jan 15, 2018