Friday, April 26, 2013

Visiting Japan's Most Scenic View Of Matsushima

Matsushima ah!

A-ah, Matsushima, ah!

Matsushima, ah!

Matsuo Basho

Haiku poet (1689)

In
1689, Haiku poet Matsuo Basho visited Matsushima on the trip recorded
in Narrow Road to the Deep North. A well-known poem often attributed to
Basho claims to record his reaction, signifying that nothing more could
be said.

Matsushima,
located in the central part of Miyagi prefecture and about half an hour
outside of Sendai, is famous for its bay, which is dotted by over 200
small pine (matsu, 松) clad islets (shima, 島), hence its
name. The view of Matsushima changes from place-to-place and
from-season-to-season, and is so beautiful that it has been ranked as
one of Japan's three most scenic views for centuries, alongside Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima and the pine-clad sandbar of Amanohashidate in Kyoto, Matsushima

Matsushima that has been written in waka
(和歌), or Japanese poetry since ancient times is well known as the place
to dazzle sophisticated individuals every years to come. Matsuo Basho, a
poet, once wrote in his famous work "The Narrow Road to the Deep North"
extolled Matsushima Bay formed by more than 260 motley kinds of islands
having different shapes and sizes. Matsushima as it has been called one
of the most representative places in Japan that can offer the view with
many beautiful islands truly brings the splendid and exhilarating time
with each seasons come.

Matsushimakaigan Station, the nearest station to the famous bay.

The signboard that reads, "Welcome to Matsushima".

A monument that mentioned Matsushima as one of Japan's three most celebrated scenic sights, attributed to 1643 and scholar Hayashi Gahō.

An open space with the legendary Godaido temple in the background.

Matsushima
was hit by the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011, but escaped
major damage thanks to its protected location inside the island dotted
bay.

This is some part of the town where damaged could be spotted.

Enough
of a short introduction of Matsushima. My second day in Sendai was a
short visit to Matsushima. The train journey from Sendai station on the
Senseki line (仙石線) took about 40 minutes. It was a Sunday, the weather
was clear and what I saw upon arriving was throngs of visitors were
already there to visit one of Miyagi's most well-known gem.

The
first stop was the picturesque Matsushima Bay which is dotted with
small islands covered by black and red pines and grayish white rocks.
The views of Matsushima Bay from the four view spots of Ogi-tani,
Tomi-yama, Otaka-mori, and Tamon-zan are truly spectacular, which is
called "Matsushima Shidaikan," the four grandest views in Matsushima.
With its stunning island scenery, the place is frequented by visitors
all year round.

On
the curved wooden supports of the four walls, carvings of the 12 signs
of the Chinese zodiac are arranged facing their corresponding direction.

The breathtaking view of Matsushima Bay from Godaidojima.

Godaido
is a small temple hall on an islet just next to the pier. Due to its
prominent location, it has become a symbol of Matsushima. Godaido was
built in 807 and contains five statues which where enshrined by the same
priest who founded nearby Zuiganji. The statues are displayed to the
public only once every 33 years, and were last displayed in 2006.

The
present building is a 1604 reconstruction by the local feudal lord Date
Masamune. The hall's exterior is decorated by small carvings of the
twelve animals of the lunar calendar, three on each side. Despite its
exposed location, the Godaido did not suffer any major damage in the
earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011.

To go across this bridge, you have to pay the toll.

Zunda (mashed young green soybeans) flavour soft cream.

The magnificent Fukuura Bridge that connects Fukuurajima to the mainland.

Just another few steps until reaching the island.

Fukuura
Island (福浦島, Fukuurajima) is one of the few pine covered islands in
Matsushima Bay that is accessible to the public. The island is reached
via a 252 meter long, red painted bridge that costs 200 yen (round trip)
to cross. The bridge was damaged by the tsunami of March 11, 2011 and
had to undergo repair works.

The
island is a natural botanical garden with a network of pleasant walking
trails. It takes about one hour to walk all the trails at a leisurely
pace. Some nice views of the bay can be enjoyed along the way. A circuit
of the island won't take more than an hour and there are some very
sparsely beautiful spots to be seen. An interesting anecdote, there is a
local superstition that crossing the bridge with a girlfriend/boyfriend
will cause a breakup.

The island, unsurprisingly, is covered with pine trees.

Bentendo (弁天堂), a tiny
Buddhist structure on Fukuurajima, Matsushima.

One of the walking trails found on the island.

There are some trails where you just walk on the ground.

A observatory deck at the end of the trail.

The magnificent view of Matsushima Bay.

Another angle of the bay from the deck.

The beach is mostly muddy,
and sometimes you will spot locals collecting oyster from the
water.

Daruma dolls (after
Bodhidharma, founder of the Zen school of Buddhism) foundin between a
crack in a stone.

It
was time for lunch after going around the island. Matsushima is well
known for its fresh oyster and most of the restaurants here offer a huge
variety of menu based on oyster. You have fried oyster, oyster soba,
oyster udon, and even oyster favoured soft cream!

Our stop was at Nanbuya (南部屋).
This restaurant has existed since the Edo period and is famous in this
area for its oyster menu. During the tsunami on March 11, 2011, this
restaurant was not spared as it is located just a stone's throw from the
seaside. The water level which went into the restaurant was almost 1.2
meter and the water line could be seen from the photos on the wall in
the restaurant.

The main street in Matsushima.

The menu on the table. Love
the hand-written style with colourful pictures.

Kaki-don set, which comes
with fresh oyster and also fried oyster.

Matsushima soba, which comes with oyster and sasakamaboko (笹かまぼこ), similar to fishcake.

Another famous food from Sendai - fried kamaboko (揚げかまぼこ)

What makes it special here is that the kamaboko here is made of tofu.

More fresh seafood found at the stalls along the roadside.

Some statues near the Zuigan-ji Temple.

Sakura was in full bloom around Matsushima.

One random temple at the area.

Time to take the train back to Sendai.

When
I was leaving Matsushima, I felt that I loved the place more than ever.
From the pier, the seaside attractions are within walking distance.
Theold zen temple can be reached through towering huge pines trees, a
traditional Japanese garden that you can walk around, shops selling good
seafood, a park where you can lie down, have picnic and delight in the
quietness of the small town. ​

If you are visiting Miyagi in the near future, remember to include Matsushima in your itinerary!