What locks and retainers would I have to get? I was told without machine work I would need to run offset locks but I can't find what I need because I don't know about this valvetrain stuff. Stock I've heard that the 906's will do about .475 lift, I know I need beffier springs and I have them picked out, and I know running more lift on them would more than likely be a clearance issue, but offset locks should fix the problem right? I'd appreciate the help, thanks guys.

I had interference issues with my vortec heads too, I bought a valve guide cutter and valve seat cutter from summit and did it myself. Took a couple of hours with my drill, but I got it done no problem. Just make sure to check and doublecheck your clearances before you put it all back together. Once I got the first one set, I used a straight edge to get them all lined up. If I can find the thread from when I did it, I'll link it here for you, but it wasn't tough at all, and the tools only cost about a hundred bucks.

there is the link for the thread. I have all of the parts numbers for the tools i used to do mine. fbird88 also had some good tips that helped me immensely (post right after i give the parts numbers). it was a really easy operation and saved me a ton of money over more expensive springs, retainers, locks, etc... didn't mess with my installed spring height, and cost considerably less than if i had brought it to a machine shop to have them do the same thing.

That CC article has the retainers to use the bee hive springs on the Vortec heads as p/n 774. This is wrong- the 774 retainer is for the LS-type Gen III engine w/8mm valve stems. The correct retainer for Vortec heads is p/n 787.

This is another old wive's tale. Stock setups may bang the seal at 0.430" or even less. You have to leave some play in your calculations for a safety margin.

All you guys are brain riddled with the idea that you have to have a ton of valve lift to make power. Not true. For a street motor, choose the intake closing point to match up with the SCR and use a valve lift of 0.400"-0.425", using all the stock L31 pieces including springs, retainers, keepers, seals and rail rockers. Use a socket and small hammer to tap the valve seals down onto the guide. Some of them were not installed correctly and will sit up on the guide, diminishing retainer to seal clearance. For the money you save, you'll never miss the 15-20 hp you might pick up with more lift.

Well not to be rude, but that 15-20hp or so is exactly what I want. My truck has a 4.8L Gen III Vortec V8 in it and it makes 280hp stock, and I plan on doing a full exhaust on it and everything because the original is starting to rot and needs replaced, so I estimate its going to make around 300hp in the end. I want my Camaro to blow the doors off of the truck in terms of performance. And this truck is the fastest thing I've ever owned so I want there to be a power difference big enough for me to notice and make all this V6 to V8 engine swap stuff worth it.

How much power do you plan on making with your engine? Vortec heads may be the wrong route to be taking.

I'm not going any other route with heads, I got my set of brand new Vortecs off a crate engine for $200. Can't beat it. I've seen people push 360-370HP from 906 Vortecs and TPI and thats what I'm doing. If I get 325hp then I'll be happy, but the more the merrier!

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