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Replace a Cambelt and front engine Seals on your 240 series Volvo(This was done on a
1988, 240GLT B230E)

Preparations are important.
A good working area !

Cam-belts
or Timing-belts need to be replaced after a certain mileage, depending on model.
For the 240 series that is every 36,000 miles or 60,000 kms. If
you find that your engine is leaking oil, it may be prudent to
replace the front seals (camshaft, intermediate and crankshaft) when you are at it, this may save work
and cost at a later stage. You may also consider to replace the
belt tensioner after 200,000kms and/or the waterpump.

Before you start this job, make sure that you check the
Flametrap. If it's blocked, it was the cause of the oil leaks.
Replace the flametrap at a cost of only US$0.50 from FCP Groton.

My B230E engine has been leaking oil lately after towing a heavy
furniture trailer (next time I hire a truck) and I noticed
to come from the crankshaft seal. (The end seal of the
Transmission is leaking too, but that is a next project) All
parts required; belt, seals and tensioner were ordered from FCP
Groton, USA. Parts were delivered within 5 days, so that was
excellent.

I always take my time to prepare this type of jobs and won't
rush into it without doing some homework first. The internet is
an excellent source of information and at the bottom of this
page you can find a link to the Brickboard for additional information.
When you have a spare car like me (1968 Volvo Amazon - actually,
that is my main car) there is no need to rush this job. In some
publications people boast "this job took me 3 hours to
do" but it all depends on your technical knowledge,
experience, tools available, work area and urgency to finish
the job. My advice is take time and when not sure about part of
the job, ask others, there are plenty of good Volvo
Forums around.

Here is the description on how I did the job:

Put the front of the car on ramps or axle stands and handbrake on.

Disconnect the Battery.

Remove the cooling fan, pulley, 4 nuts and remove the fan shroud, two small screws

Remove the alternator belts and A/C compressor or P/S belt
and airfilter box.

Remove top section of cambelt cover.

Using a 24mm spanner on the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine to
TDC, the white dot on the cam sprocket will point to the mark on the cambelt cover at 12:00.

On automatics,
you cannot lock the crankshaft while undoing the
bolt on the crankshaft pulley and although there is a
special Volvo crank holding tool available for around $40 at
ipd and Swedish Engineering, there is an
other way. Get under the car and remove the reinforcement
bracket between engine and transmission, 6 bolts. This will
expose the flywheel, now place a screwdriver between teeth
of the flywheel and the bellhousing on one side of the
bellhousing to lock the flywheel and the crankshaft. This
allows you to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Note: when it comes to tighten the bolt again, move the
screwdriver to the other side of the bellhousing.

Remove the crank pulley, you may need a puller, I did !!!!

If you are going to replace all three front engine seals, as I
did, loosen the camshaft and intermediate sprocket bolts at
this stage. This can be done with a strap wrench to hold the
sprocket in place. However I have done this with the old cambelt in place and the
"screwdriver in the flywheel trick" to lock the
sprockets. Note: use the old cambelt also to tighten these
bolts later.
If you are not replacing any seals go to 22

Loosen
the nut on the belt tensioner and pull on the old belt to
compress the spring so you can insert a nail in the hole of
the shaft to
take the pressure off the belt. See photo on the right

Tensioner

Remove cambelt and all three sprockets.

Use
a "Seal Pick" to pull out the old seals, you may
have to drill two small holes in the seals to pull them out with
the seal pick. Another way is to put a self tapping screw in
the hole and pull the seal out with the screw. Be careful
not to damage anything when drilling !

Install the new seals.
Clean up the areas first. You may like to use a special tool to
insert or press the seals properly. Take all care not to damage the seal.
Use plenty of oil or grease to lubricate the seal,
especially where it goes over the shaft. The factory fitted
seal is usually flush with the outer surface. It is
recommended to fit the new seal 3mm deeper so that it
contacts on a smooth, fresh surface.

Install back of belt cover

Install
the cam sprocket and tighten the bolt by hand.

Install
the intermediate sprocket and tighten bolt by hand.

Install
the crankshaft back guideplate facing away from belt, then
install the sprocket.

Ensure
that all sprockets are set to their marks, cam sprocket to
12:00,
intermediate to 3:00 and
crank sprocket to 12:00.
See image on the right, click to enlarge

Timing
Marks

Install
old cambelt in any position and release tensioner spring by
removing the nail. Tighten the tensioner nut.

Tighten
the cam sprocket bolt to the required torque setting as per
manual. 37 lbf-ft or 50 Nm.
Ensure belt doesn't slip. See photo on
the right.

Loosen the tensioner nut.
Pull on the old belt to compress the tensioner spring so you can insert the
nail in the shaft hole again to take the pressure off the belt.

Remove
the old belt and install the new belt, ensure all sprockets
are on their marks and belt marks line up with sprocket
marks. Double line on belt should line up with crank mark.
Start installing belt from crank sprocket and work upwards.

Remove nail from tensioner
to put the tension on the belt. Tighten the tensioner nut.

Install front guideplate on crank sprocket
facing away from belt.

Install belt lower cover.

Install crank pulley. Tighten
the bolt to the required torque setting as per manual.
44 lbf-ft or 60 Nm. and turn an extra 60 degrees.