Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

This is a writeup about replacing the lock actuator on the passenger-side sliding door. When the powered lock started failing, it would require a couple presses of the remote to unlock the door. After a while, the actuator could only move the lock lever halfway. I could not lock or unlock the door remotely.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break something or hurt yourself while performing this procedure.

Parts:
C23572350 - Passenger Side Actuator
C23573350 - Driver Side Actuator
Each actuator retails for about $56, but you can find it online for $40 or less.

If you have experience working with interior body panels, the whole process takes about 30 minutes and is fairly easy. The lock components have a lot of grease so have something handy to keep yourself clean.

Step 1P1010915.JPG
Open the sliding door halfway. Pull out the cover by the window.

Step 2P1010918.JPG
Next, remove the cover surrounding the handle. Make sure the lock lever is in the locked position. Otherwise, the lever will be in the way. Start pulling out the cover on the lower right side. The cover should pop off fairly easily. Do not pull too hard, the window regulator wire is connected.

Step 3P1010919.JPG
Here is the cover off. You can see the window regulator wiring. Pull out the window regulator wiring connector. Press on the connector tab and pull. Also remove the cable guide attached to the inside of the door panel.

Step 5P1010923.JPG
Now you're ready to remove the main door panel. There are two holes on the bottom where you can get your hand inside the panel and pull outward. Start on the bottom and work your way counterclockwise. The top of the panel drops into the window sill. Once the panel is free, lift the entire panel up to free it from the door frame.

Step 6cablenconn.jpg
Unplug the 2 connectors on the actuator. Free the two cables from the cable guides.

Step 7lockleverrod.jpg
Disconnect the lever connecting the lock lever to the actuator. Pop out the lever from the holder in the green square.

Step 10actuator.jpg
Now pull off the metal frame. You will not be able to completely take it out because there are cables attached to frame, but you will be able to get access to the screw holding the actuator in place. Uncrew the philips-head in red circle. You can now remove the actuator.

Step 112acts.jpg
Transfer the plastic lever holder from the old actuator to the new one. Apply grease to the new actuator's exposed moving parts.

Step 12actloc.jpg
Install the new actuator onto the lock frame. Make sure the actuator arm goes inside the U-shaped bracket. This is the connection that locks the door to the car's frame.

Step 13
Refer to the picture in Step 8. Place lock frame back in its original location and do the blue-circles (2 philips-heads, 1 bolt).

Step 14
Place the door handle back in its original location and do the red circles in Step 8 (2 philips-heads, 2 bolts).

Step 15
Reverse of Step 7, place the lever back in the plastic holder on the actuator.

Step 16
Reverse of Step 6, reconnect the 2 connectors for the actuator. Place the 2 cables back in the cable guides. At this point, you may want to test out the installation. Try locking and unlocking the door with your remote.

Step 17
Put back the main door panel. Start by dropping the top of the panel into the window sill. Then push on the panel until it is securely attached to the door frame.

Step 18
Reverse of Step 4. Screw on the 2 philips-heads.

Step 19
Reverse of Step 3. Take the door handle cover, put back the cable guide for the window regulator wire. Reconnect the window regulator wire on the back of the door handle cover. Place the cover back on the door

I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I'm thinking like
ewww! I'm not going to have a sliding door without the lock assist feature. It's just too
violent for the door to be slamming the pillar all the time. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.

I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I'm thinking like
ewww! I'm not going to have a sliding door without the lock assist feature. It's just too
violent for the door to be slamming the pillar all the time. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.

the slider on the 5 doesn't take much effort to close (even without the power assist!!!) You just saw the typical "minivan effect" people used to having to really push the door hard to get the caravan doors closed, not the case on the 5

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I'm almost to the point of putting "passenger advisory" labels in the back, what with folks thinking they need to slam the doors.

Indeed, they are actually light/well-balanced doors and can be closed using fingertips. My in-laws, former Astro-van owners, ride with us frequently and are repeat offenders, "wham!". Hey, easy on the doors!

I'm almost to the point of putting "passenger advisory" labels in the back, what with folks thinking they need to slam the doors.

Indeed, they are actually light/well-balanced doors and can be closed using fingertips. My in-laws, former Astro-van owners, ride with us frequently and are repeat offenders, "wham!". Hey, easy on the doors!

lolz.. I can probably blame Mazda for causing some kind of social effects. I heard friends who think we are picky and over protective with our new MAZDA5. 'It's just a door!!' they would say. So we have come up with a solution. We open and close the sliding door for our 'uninitiated passengers'. If they ask, we say, 'sometimes it does not close well'. but eventually they get the message.

I wonder if they can include similar 'lock assist' feature on the swing doors. That will really require behavioural change. Imagine closing the doors like you do the refrigerator doors (of today).

I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.

In Canada, Mazda 5 GS models do not have the auto close feature on the rear sliding doors. Just one more reason to buy the GT.

BTW, saw an 06/7 GT auto on the Chrysler lot tonight. No cleanup yet, so it was likely traded today. What could have taken it's place that they sell at Chrysler?

My mom has a bad tendency to slam them open, if that makes any sense. Makes me cringe every time. The first time she did it she had this scowl look on her face, which was hilarious actually, but it pissed me off. I'm not sure why she finds it to be difficult, but she is very small and 67 years old.

My mom has a bad tendency to slam them open, if that makes any sense. Makes me cringe every time. The first time she did it she had this scowl look on her face, which was hilarious actually, but it pissed me off. I'm not sure why she finds it to be difficult, but she is very small and 67 years old.

Slamming it open may be worse. I don't hear any 'rubber damper' sound when the sliding door opens fully. Its almost like metal to metal sound.

I think this door was originally designed to be motorized. Which requires that they be perfectlty balanced and have minimal amount of friction. Allows for a smaller motor to open/close the sliding door.

Slamming it open may be worse. I don't hear any 'rubber damper' sound when the sliding door opens fully. Its almost like metal to metal sound.

I think this door was originally designed to be motorized. Which requires that they be perfectlty balanced and have minimal amount of friction. Allows for a smaller motor to open/close the sliding door.

There is definitely a rubber bump stop, it's at the top of the door in the channel. when it dries out, it has a tendency to sqweak when the door is opened all the way! of coure it may be missing on your car if you're hearing a metal to metal sound!

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