04 Extreme X2. The cranks, rear shock, front derailer (that is being replaced soon), seatpost, rims, stem, handlebars and grips are still stock. Everything else has been broken and replaced. The swingarm is off an 04 x1. I cracked the original swingarm.

For as much as I have had to replace, this bike is still cheaper and just as capable as any of the boutique brands. It has survived a hell of alot of abuse. Mostly light freeride and very aggressive trail riding.

I kept it the 'standard' color. I liked the gold color on your proto that was used in the first MBA test report and was hoping that the production version would that color. Turned out impossible, but the painted color on the serial version now is very, very cool too. Not too flashy and not too raw.

here pics of mine, probably the only one in Europe I guess??

No, I am not retro.... I am way ahead of my time...

"...though a lot of marijuana was smoked in the early days of mountain bike development, not all of the riders were potsmoking hippies... " Frank J. Berto

when i got the coil upgraded to a heavier spring rate, the guy at the shop (who also assembled the bike) just thought it looked like it fit the frame better backwards.. i thought it looked funny too, that's why i asked him, but there's no difference in performance, so i never cared enough to switch it back... by now i'm used to it, and don't even notice until someone asks about it.. LOL

My Raleigh is a Haro?

P1000465.JPGAlready put this up on the Raleigh thread. Have a look at the rear swingarm - pivot point and drop outs. It has to come out the same factory. I second all the rave reviews of the Haro on MTBR. Great performing single pivot suspension.

P1000465.JPGAlready put this up on the Raleigh thread. Have a look at the rear swingarm - pivot point and drop outs. It has to come out the same factory. I second all the rave reviews of the Haro on MTBR. Great performing single pivot suspension.

that looks like the pivot yoke and a couple other pieces that we used on our 2002 model year frames. We designed that back then. But we don't use the same frame factory anymore so who knows what they are doing with the forging parts that we created.

2003 Haro Escape 8.3

Bought the bike new. Couldn't stand the Psylo XC on it so replaced it with the Manitou Black Elite. The stem and bar are from a project that I was building up and realized they worked better on this bike.

Raleigh !!

Originally Posted by headshot

P1000465.JPGAlready put this up on the Raleigh thread. Have a look at the rear swingarm - pivot point and drop outs. It has to come out the same factory. I second all the rave reviews of the Haro on MTBR. Great performing single pivot suspension.

Your bike looks great.I love the single pivot style frames like that.
I have a Fox Talas RLC & need to put it on a frame like that instead of my Trek 6700 hardtail..

Here is my 2005 X1, not many upgrades other than a new seat, fork (not really new just took it off my old bike, 2002 Psylo), and pedals. Soon will be getting a DHX 5.0 (props to fox for coming out with one in a 7.875" eye to eye and 2" stroke), 2006 Rock Shox Pike 426, and a new wheelset which will either be Azonic Outlaws or TBC Revolutions. Sorry for no action pics.

Sorry for the lame basement pics...just put the new rear shock on & was excited, so I snapped a few pics. Love the bike so far. I plan to change the wheelset & fork soon...might repaint the frame too. Cant wait to get out & try the new rear shock! Also have some X.9 gear to go on whenever I stop riding it long enough to do it!

(PS...I know I need to lose the FOX sticker...used to have a FOX shock on there. That sticker is a bugger to get off!)

nice

Here's a pic of my medium '04 X2. I did all the upgrades within a month of buying the bike, and ran it as pictured for about a year. I'm 6'1" and I found it a little cramped, so I bought a large Bullit frame with the intentions of swapping everything over.
Of course, this didn't happen, and both are now sold. I've gone back to Super V's now

The travel seemed endless, and it soaked up anything that I threw at it - and I didn't have one slam on it! The back end always seemed a little loose sideways, even though everything was good and tight.......sold it on after I built back to standard for £200.00 less than I paid for it - that was lucky!

Here's some pics of a Haro V5 1x9 that I just built up. I think the V5 is an overlooked frame by a lot of riders because the V series is on the lower end of the price spectrum. But the V5 has great geomerty and feels very stable across the board. I pieced this bike together with some decent ebay buys and some end of the year specials at the various online bike shops. The frame was actually a new bike stripped for parts and I got it for 45 bucks which is a good place to start

Haro X3 and Group1 RS1

My 06 Haro X7...
Its all stock but with decent components......I guess. I only weigh 135 and at age 29 years old I don't think I'm ever going to change that. I've been told to change the fork but I've taken some serious nose dives and come right out of them with what I've already got. It will take a 7-10 ft drop and keep going. I like the stiffness in the rear suspension for going balls to the wall through rock gardens. I'd like to loose a little weight I suppose on the bike. All in all I'd say this bike is a perfect fit for what I love to do.....

I'd love to hear some suggestions on what I may consider upgrading this summer though.

My 06 Haro X7...
Its all stock but with decent components......I guess. I only weigh 135 and at age 29 years old I don't think I'm ever going to change that. I've been told to change the fork but I've taken some serious nose dives and come right out of them with what I've already got. It will take a 7-10 ft drop and keep going. I like the stiffness in the rear suspension for going balls to the wall through rock gardens. I'd like to loose a little weight I suppose on the bike. All in all I'd say this bike is a perfect fit for what I love to do.....

I'd love to hear some suggestions on what I may consider upgrading this summer though.

I have the same X7. It is a great bike for the price. I wouldn't worry about the fork right off. It has served me fine so far and I have no complaints.

The first thing I upgraded were the brakes. The Hayes Soles are not as consistent as I would have liked, so I replaced them with Hayes Mags.

I also didn't like the odd 24/36 gearing on the crankset, so I replaced that with a Race Face Diabolous 22/32 and an MRP chainguide.

I also am putting on a Fox DHX 5.0 coil shock to replace the barely adequate Manitou Metel. I ordered it today actually. Fox is back ordered on the 9.5x3.0's until next week, but I should have it a few days after that.

I put on a 70mm Race Face Diabolous stem as well, but only because I wanted something a bit longer than the 50mm.

You asked for opinions and those are mine. Good luck and let us know what you decide on--with pics

Except for the steel-steerer tube, which adds about 1/2lb the DOII's are pretty neat
and I'll bet at 135lbs their a bit stiff..

Suggest you remove the left spring... (13/16" spark plug wrench fits the caps".. and run 4-8 psi (the oil level, with both springs removed and the forks compressed is 60mm from the top to the 7.5wt oil)

I weigh 170 and found them a bit stiff, never any air pre-load, they "top-out" and they would only "drop" about 1/2" when I sat on the bike.. Stiff and harsh over hi-speed stutter-bumps.

get about 1-2" sag when you stand on he pedals...

You will need a decent shock-pump to set the air in the forks..

You will then find out the the "damping-adjustments" actually work and aren't just pretty little knobs..

Also, spray silicon-lubricant on the stations before you ride.. reduces "stiction", the forks take a while to break-in

Only complaint is the damper-adjustments don't have any "detent" so you have to count the turns.. start about 1-2 turns in at first..

A "cable-tie" on one of the legs will let you know how much travel you use, but use a thin one, the forks go the the crown when fully compressed..

You will now have some REAL Marzocchi "plush" forks that don't bottom..

I run 888rc2x's on the font now... but the forks are on my Escape 8.3 Hardtail

Trick is to play with the oil-level and air-pressure.. more-oil = less air less-oil=more air.. We are talking about 5mm in oil level, and 2-3psi changes..

The higher the oil--level, the more it will resist bottoming

Quick simple "oil-changes" can be done by taking off the front wheel,, bleed all the air, loosening the fork caps, take the spring(s) out, put the caps back in, turnin the bike upside down, finish unscrewing the caps..and pump the forks.. (into a pan) ..Refill with 7.5w GoldenSpectro (Motorcycle Shop)..poor some oil in, pump the forks a bit, add more oil... keeping the forks nearly completely compressed... when you get near the 60mm level, gently extend the fork legs and compress them a couple times to clear the air.. compress and verify 60mm... extend the forks, put the spring(s) in put the caps on, and add some air (20psi will make the forks rigid), only use 2-5psi... you might actually use Zero air...

RockShox Boxxer Race 2004 model, set at 170mm Travel *Notice the nice HT angle
Stock X-Fusion Shock, dialed in PURRRRFectly. I don't think I even need to upgrade it
Stock basically everything else, cept the new ORAGE e.13 bashguard... I think I'm going to hook myself up with a chainguide soon.
Getting complete fork rebuild soon too...
Yeah, lovin' this bike. It rocks, and is almost as good as my friends custom '03 Wildcat Trail...

Right, I also have those nice doorstoppers super glued to the bike, because the fork came with a tall race crown, so I needed stoppers :[

Suggestion, move the crown on top of the spacers... under the stem... it will move the clamp to the top of the fork tubes and make them stiffer.. it should also move the clamp over the top-tube...
You probably won't need the stopper on the frame, and you can move the rubber on on the forks down to hit the downtube..

At some point I will post my X7 with 888's set up that way.. Look at 357's that the way they are set up...

If you want 7" of rear travel, find an X7 swing arm.. I think you use a 9.5" x3" shock, if not you will need one..

My new WERX 7...

I just picked it up, but I'm stoked about slapping her together. I've got an '02 Marz Monster T going up front, and a set of Double Tracks for shoes, but I'm still working on piecing the rest of it together. So far, this is how she looks: