Q: I have been planting a small vegetable garden (approximately six feet by 12 feet) for more than 25 years. This year I won't be planting so I can focus on other projects. What can I do to help keep the weeds to a minimum?

Q: I have been planting a small vegetable garden (approximately six feet by 12 feet) for more than 25 years. This year I won’t be planting so I can focus on other projects. What can I do to help keep the weeds to a minimum? The neighbouring house has a tree (the type escapes me) that usually covers the garden with its seeds — strong western winds are not in my favour — and there are other weeds to contend with.

A: Giving your garden a rest might be a bonus. I recommend adding a good layer (two or three inches) of well-rotted manure or compost over the entire top of the garden, and just let that sit during the year. It will add precious nutrients to the garden as it breaks down further and gets incorporated into the existing soil.

As for the weed control, you might try putting down a layer of inexpensive landscape fabric over the entire garden. The fabric will still allow the water to drain through and out but will keep the weeds at bay.

Q: I am hoping that you might have a suggestion for treatment of a 10-year-old dwarf mugo pine that has white scales on its needles on several branches. Parts of the pine are turning yellow. The pine is in a south-facing garden, and also receives some heat reflected off the wall of the house.

The problem started several years ago and has been spreading slowly. I have been researching the cause and possible remedies, but the solutions and timing appear to be applicable to other climate zones. Do you have a recommendation for treatment and timing?

A: While it may not look like it, there are actually insects hiding underneath the white protective scales on your pine needles. The insects begin life as eggs that overwinter under the protective scale coverings. According to Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, “Nymphs emerge in early June and search for suitable feeding sites on old needles. In three to four weeks the male nymphs form a narrow, white, waxy protective scale about 1.5 millimetres (mm) in length. Meanwhile, the females remain as free-feeding insects without a scale covering. During the next three weeks the males develop into winged adults and emerge from the scales to mate with the wingless females. By mid-August the females produce a smooth, white, oblong-shaped scale about 3 mm in length. Each female produces about 40 overwintering eggs under the protective scale. There is one generation per year.”

You are correct that timing is important when it comes to treatment. Insecticides are useful only when the nymphs or crawlers are active, which is around the first two weeks of June. Insecticidal soaps and pyrethrins are registered for controlling pine needle scale, but natural controls such as ladybugs can be effective as well. The problem with using insecticides is that you can actually be killing off natural predators of the scales. If you choose to spray, do so at the beginning of June or just after the new needles emerge.

Q: I have a problem with potato scab each and every year. I have tried moving the planting location, but nothing has worked. Are there any varieties out there that are resistant to scab?

A: Chieftain, Norland, Kennebec, Superior, and Russet Burbank are a few examples of potatoes that are moderately resistant to scab, but they are not totally resistant. This is true for all varieties. I recommend that you rotate your crops regularly, and if you have an area that has had scab do not plant potatoes in the spot for at least three years. Keeping the soil moist (but never wet) has been shown to help as well.

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