﻿the travel journal

Cape Town is a town of dichotomies: beautiful yet run-down, chill but tense, modern yet steeped in history, rich but poor. It's a town that can challenge visitors but also enthrall them. I struggle to fully explain the sense of passion- for good and for bad- that pulses through this coastal city with stunning views and political undercurrents. It's a city you simply must visit.

(Note: I visited Cape Town in March 2015.)

Art

This is a city of art with a message. Everywhere you turn, there are murals, museums, crafts, and graffiti telling the tense and oppressive struggles of Capetonians. One of the first murals I encountered depicted a blindfolded woman's face painted on a crumbling wall behind a chained link fence. All of this surrounded by the white washed beauty of wealthy building, and inscribed with the message, "All shall be equal before the law."

In the floor above the thoroughly sobering Iziko Slave Lodge Museum, one is shocked into modern life with a curving wall made entirely of brightly colored CDs. There is a sense of escape in the form of music and the passing of time. Another super cool discovery were the many upcycled crafts; I was delighted by sculptures of safari animals made of old soda cans, plastic bottle caps, or old flip flops glued together (pictured). And finally, the National Gallery housed a host of collections and temporary exhibits that confronted fear, racism, classism, and sexism (I found it emotionally wrenching and compelling... but was ready for a drink afterward! I ended up taking a walk in the Company Gardens to take a breather).

Description

Cape Town in three words:

colorful breathtaking striving

​Views & sites

Entertainment

The Labia Theater​One of my favorite places in Cape Town is the unique and vintage movie theater, the Labia. Named after founder Princess Labia, the theater was converted from the former Italian embassy ballroom in 1949. The theater not only shows art, historical and recent films, but also has a coffee shop, snack bar, and full bar! And it's located across the street from the Company Gardens, so it's a perfect stop after a day touring around.

Handspring Puppet CompanyI couldn't get tickets when I visited, but this puppet theater for adults gets rave reviews! The photos from their FB page are intriguing, as well. The theater features massive puppets (and works of art in their own right!) and story lines to appeal to adults rather than children. I would definitely try to get tickets, if they are still up and running.

Noshing

There were some great restaurants in Cape Town, but they may have changed in the past two years. Here's a list of foods and drinks to try:​

springbok sausages

buttermilk rusks

Boerewors "boerie" rolls

koeksisters (a kind of braided donut)

melt in your mouth calamari at the waterfront

the local wines

a beer or two from the top of Table Mountain!

Transportation

Top three recommended modes of transportation:3. Go on foot. If you don't need a lot of sleep, I recommend staying near Bree and Long Streets. They have an active nightlife that go into the wee hours. Many of the tourist sites are within walking distance, and the path through the Company Gardens might be one of the most beautiful urban walk ways in the world. Be safe and don't walk alone at night, even in these areas; take a taxi or Uber instead.2. Uber. If you decide to stay further out (an excellent way to cut costs), then Uber is a quick and easy way to get to destinations efficiently. I've traveled to many cities, and this is one of the best (besides San Francisco) because there are so many drivers available. Tip: if this is your first time using the service, download the phone app before you go.1. City Sightseeing bus. I have used hop on/ hop off buses in various cities, and the City Sightseeing buses in Cape Town have been- by far- the most efficient. They stop at all the neighborhoods and tourist sites you'll want to check out, and they run regularly and on time. I got a 48 hour ticket and used it to travel all over the city for one price- a great deal in my opinion! They have three routes from which you can choose, one taking you around the city, another exploring the peninsula (including penguins and Kirstenbosch Nature Reserve), and another focusing on the historical downtown area. I took the red line and was pleased at how much I was able to explore!

Ultimate (experiences)

HeartworksThere were a lot of places to shop around Cape Town, but Heartworks was simply charming. The owner travels all around South Africa, collecting arts and crafts to sell to tourists. You'll find colorful wire baskets, hand-stitched dolls and elaborately embroidered pillows, gorgeous necklaces and earrings dripping with beads, and so much more! I purchased items for my own home, but many more items for friends back home- and everyone loved what I gave them! There are three locations. Be sure to visit at least one!

Table Mountain CafeWe happened to visit the infamous Table Mountain in the afternoon. We headed up in a cable car, though those with more time and lung capacity could certainly hike, and decided to sit at the cafe with a few adult beverages to enjoy the amazing view! It was a highlight of my trip to sit back, relax, chat with locals, and drink in the sunset. But be warned that the last cable car down is at 6pm! Highly recommended experience... and one I will certainly never forget.

Real world details

Poverty and racial inequality are real and in-your-face even for tourists in Cape Town (I hear that it is worse in Johannesburg, though I have not been... yet). Be prepared to have children and adults approach you, and even follow you, asking for food, money, physical assistance, etc. I was approached for money for taxis and shelter by several adults, and at one point had a sandwich snatched out of my hand by a rough looking little guy (I figured he needed it more than I did). When I went to a book shop that has great reviews, I discovered a locked metal door and was only allowed entry once a bookshop worker had come to look me over. While I browsed, I saw him refuse entry to several visitors- all of them black (maybe that was a coincidence, but...). Another time, I stopped for a coffee at a crowded outdoor cafe near the crowded Greenmarket stalls. Several young children approached me to ask for food, and an older couple reprimanded me when I went to order something for them, saying I was encouraging street kids to be lazy and annoying (I gave them food anyway). Be prepared for uncomfortable encounters and decide beforehand how you'll respond if such things happen to you.

For solo travelers, you may experience the dichotomy of good and bad encounters. For the most part, I found that traveling on my own meant that people were extremely friendly! Many waiters and customers would sit and chat with me for long stretches, and several invited me along with them to other bars and public places. I found it easy to chat with people and felt comfortable dining on my own in restaurants or visiting tourist spots. I did, however, feel the need to be wary when traveling on foot in the evening, and I was careful to keep valuables locked away when walking through Company Gardens and on Long Street. Take the usual precautions and be aware of your surroundings, and you'll have a great time.

Experts

I was only in town for a few days, so I didn't get a chance to explore Boulders Beach (famous for penguins), the vineyard tours, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, or Robbin Island. Check out these websites for more info on Cape Town: