question about hdmi switch+fire tv+chromecast

I just bought thePortta PET0301S 3x1 HDMI Switcher with 3D Support from amazon. I am attempting to use the switch with my fire tv and chromecast. Unfortunately, they will not work TOGETHER. If I use the switch with just the chromecast or just the fire tv, the both work. However, when I plug both in, the fire tv will work but not the chromecast. Chromecast will only display the starting flash screen but will not show any videos that are being cast. I attempted to use a 5V adapter with the switch. That did not help. And I don't know why using an adapter with the HDMI switch would help anyway since both chromecast and fire tv have their own power sources.

It sounds like there is an HDMI handshake issue with the switch and your HDTV, somehow having the Amazon Fire TV connected adds interference to the Chromecast signal. I don't own a Fire TV but if there is an on/off switch or a menu setting that can kill any signal from the box, turn off quickstart possibly, try that. Otherwise, my advice is get a new switch.

I'm not sure how to interpret this. As I am sure you are aware with the Chromecast (the same is true for fire tv) both are always on. there is no off to either device. Both will go to standby (or whatever after a certain amount of time).

Yes, I know how Chromecast works, I own one, used with an HDMI switch then into a Yamaha AVR then to an LG plasma, no issues with it. I don't know the settings with the Amazon Fire TV, whether it has on/off or a quick start mode or energy save mode but would try changing those settings. If it is always 100% on, no energy save mode, only a standby mode or screen saver mode after idle time, there may be no options to play with available in settings.

I was curious if starting a Chromecast video before turning on the TV if that worked. Any other combination, start Chromecast video before selecting HDMI input on the TV, etc. try any order and see what happens. Chromecast just stays in a screen saver mode before casting. Not sure how the knowledge would help but if there is a combination that works, that is something to start with.

I was curious if starting a Chromecast video before turning on the TV if that worked. Any other combination, start Chromecast video before selecting HDMI input on the TV, etc. try any order and see what happens. Chromecast just stays in a screen saver mode before casting. Not sure how the knowledge would help but if there is a combination that works, that is something to start with. I suspect the fix is a different HDMI switch.

Click to expand...

so. that doesn't work. Chromecast senses when the TV is not on (I guess through HDMI). It doesn't work when the TV is not on. No amount of rotation of turning stuff on (input first, then chromecast or vice versa) worked. This is the 2nd HDMI switch I've tried. And to its credit, the switch works. Just not with both chromecast and Fire TV at the same time. And I'm trying to figure out how to use both with the one switch. So, I'll wait and see if anyone else has come up with anything.

Auto/intelligent switching doesn’t work well with 2 (or more) ‘always on’ devices. (by the time you press the remote keys, its too late…)
Also, a proper AC adaptor should always be used w/ those switches.

I have a very similar issue, but mine is when I have my PC and Chromecast (CC) attached and switched on, the Chromecast won't work (I have a cheap 3 port switch). Initially though, they both worked well on this switch, and I decided to replace it with a 5x1, as I needed more inputs. I got the new switch and after plugging it in, I saw exactly the same symptoms as you, in that I see the CC boot up screen, but after that, it remains black, and I cannot see it on the TV when I select it, but I can see it on the network, and I can cast to it.. it just won't show on the TV. Funny thing is, if I have the HDMI switch showing the blank CC screen, and I turn off the PC, once the PC shuts down - *ping*, the CC screen will show on the TV. Boot the PC up, and the CC screen goes black again. So.. I arranged for a replacement 5x1 switch, fully expecting it to fix the problem, by changing the switch out. This *half* fixed it - it showed both inputs on the TV, and allowed me to switch between them.. but after about 5 mins of using the CC, it would start with some interference on screen, clicks and pops in audio, bars of fuzz coming and going on screen.. and black screen for a few seconds, cutting in and out. Totally weird. When I plug the CC into TV input directly, no problems - so I know it looks like it's possibly an issue with my switch setup. *sigh*

So I ditched the 5x1 switch, and went back to my old 3x1 port, as at least it worked ok.. only to find my old switch is now displaying the same interference problem when using the CC! So now I have a new problem.. and I suspect it's got to do with the HDMI cables I am using. I plan to switch the cables around, and reroute them away from power sources, etc and see if it makes any difference.

Long rambling answer, I know... but I reckon, if you try another switch, I think you may resolve your issue.. it's just that my remaining problem now is cable related, as it's effecting my old trusty 3x1 switch now as well....

Mainly, TVs color space mode switches designed for one device per input. But with a switch box (or an AVR) in the mix, all devices share the same input (that may cause signal failure). A good AVR/repeater should do a better job or some TVs (w/ advance settings) may handle this better.

In your case, (since it worked before), try to:
- Unplug power cord from the TV for 10 min (or overnight)
- Switch TV hdmi-input back & forth or turn TV Off/On
- list you TV make/model.
- Or just use an AC Power Switch Outlet” to turn CC On/Off.

Also keep in mind; devices FW (future) updates may not work properly with both switch boxes & any old HDMI cables.

I ended up putting my thickest HDMI cable running from the output of the switch to the TV. Big assumption that the thickets cable is the higher quality one.. anyways, it seemed to work. Now I have no clicks, pops or interference.. and my little 3 port switch is working again. I'll just keep my eye out for another 5 port switch to test at some stage - but one I can return if need be!