Thought it would be nice to do an offroad biased maintenance guides. As offroad bikes generally need alot more looking after than road bikes. I have a lot of time on my hands at the moment. I can't exactly do a guide at workplace as people might get angry, ha. It took me so much longer to document what I was doing, maybe 2/3x the time.

These forks are off my 2006 ktm200exc. Should be a good guide for other cartridge forks too.

You now want to remove the front wheel, brake caliper, stanchion protectors and anything that is connected to the forks.
You should now have just your forks left on the bike. Undo the top fork pinch bolts equally! Before you undo the bottom yoke pinch bolts, loosen off (NOT UNDO) the fork caps, this will help you later.

Put the cap, spring, damper rod and any spacers on a clean surface. Poor old fork oil into container, pump damper and outer fork a little to get access oil out. You won't get it all out, it's annoying.
Now put all your parts on clean work area...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/5.jpgRight, if you just want to renew the oil or change the preload spacers or change the spring this is as far as you need to go.

Do the same with the oil seal but be more careful, once it seats you don't want to keep drifting it as it wont take that too kindly. You should be able to see the retaining ring groove once it's seated. Insert the retaining ring and push the dust seal in place. You might require some gentle blows from a rubber mallet to get the dust seal fully seated.

Now compress the outer tube all the way down so the dust seal bottoms out. This is how you need to measure your oil level,no spring etc. You can cut or mark some coat hanger wire or plastic rod etc to your required air gap level and use as a dipstick.
Start filling the stanchion with oil till you reach your air gap distance. Pump the damper assembly in a small smooth motion to get air out. Also pump the outer tube in a small smooth motion. Measure again, top up as required. If you over fill use a syringe to extract small amounts out.

You Just need to assemble it the way you took it apart. So remember the spring, damper rod and spacers.____________________Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.

Silky, I never like to put a metal hammer near the chrome work. Only a last resort. But the old seal as a driver is safe/cheap way of doing it. I have a few methods as the proper seal driver tool doesn't always fit .
I will probably do a setup too. As someone had the limit of 20mm preload spacers in mine.
Or you can take your forks to my new work place in Dorking ____________________Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.

I had a clearout the other day. Still got complete triumph engine in parts, triumph spares, TTR spares, cr250 forks, lots of offroad spares tubes,bearings,seals etc and 4 tool boxes brimmed with tools but most of that is going to my new work place.____________________Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.

How much labour only for full top end rebuild on KTM EXCF ? (new piston and rings + valve check and setup and new seals + new cam chain tenshioner)____________________There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffa tape.

Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.

The shop is only just opening. Was given the task of kitting out the workshop, which is mostly done. The website is very much in progress but getting there. http://www.azcari.com/ When it's open pop in for a chat, which should only be next week or so, I'll be bored as im sure it wont pick up for a while.____________________Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.

Hello dears,
I'm an Africa Twin owner and I decided to go for a WP48 USD conversion.
Unfortunately the ones I got are slightly different. The one with designation "WP 4860 MXMA 1418X728", I guess came from a KTM 640 LC4 adv
with 275mm wheel travel

And the second one with specification "WP4860MXMA 1418W710" after checking on Internet should come From a KTM 400/520 SX Racing
with 295mm wheel travel

So my question are:
1.It is safe to use this forks on my AT After only swapping the spring ?
2.What mods I need to do to get this two parts and front wheel balanced after mounting?
3.Can I manage to increase the "WP 4860 MXMA 1418X728" fork travel up to 280mm with spacer and only adjust the "WP4860MXMA 1418W710" with spacer to,then ok?
4.Knowing that I don't have easy access to ktm used parts here where I leave , please guide me to get this done.

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