I have 13 RTV 5000 series between two homes so I've gotten pretty resourceful at keeping them all alive. I bought some of them on ebay just to keep for parts but keep them all plugged in and working. Today one of them stopped though. The blue light was on but there was no video.
Rebooted - not even the blue light.

As had happened on another unit, I suspected a power supply problem. Popped the hood and sure enough, the 2200uf 10volt cap had blown - exactly the same one as in the other machine. Replacing the cap brought it back to life.

For those who don't know the difference between an electrolytic cap and a baseball cap allow me explain. The power supply board is in the front left corner of the unit and has the power cord plugged into it. The cap in question is one of the round black cylinders on the right side of the board. This specific cap is next to a coil and is located 1" in from the right side and 1.25" in from the front side of the board.

So how did I immediately know the cap had blown? You'll notice that all the caps have a flat top with an X scored on the top. The purpose of the scoring is to provide a weak point for the cap when it pops. You may notice some dirt and/or a small hole and/or a bulge in the top of the cap.

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can remove and replace the cap in about 5 minutes once you've unplugged the unit and removed the board from the chassis. When installing an electrolytic cap you MUST OBSERVE POLARITY! One side of the cap will be marked with a stripe with a "-" sign. That side goes into the shaded, rearward hole on the board.

If you're not comfortable soldering, any electronics repair shop can do it for you. The cap itself is less than $2. If you don't have an electronics supply store nearby you can order from Radio Shack or Jameco (the better choice).

I want to recommend the work offered by JHagen. I've sent several CM-7000 and Replay power supplies to him for his magic. The units are returned promptly, and work flawlessly with I suspect a better life expectancy than the original equipment.
Cliff

I have 13 RTV 5000 series between two homes so I've gotten pretty resourceful at keeping them all alive. I bought some of them on ebay just to keep for parts but keep them all plugged in and working. Today one of them stopped though. The blue light was on but there was no video.
Rebooted - not even the blue light.

As had happened on another unit, I suspected a power supply problem. Popped the hood and sure enough, the 2200uf 10volt cap had blown - exactly the same one as in the other machine. Replacing the cap brought it back to life.

For those who don't know the difference between an electrolytic cap and a baseball cap allow me explain. The power supply board is in the front left corner of the unit and has the power cord plugged into it. The cap in question is one of the round black cylinders on the right side of the board. This specific cap is next to a coil and is located 1" in from the right side and 1.25" in from the front side of the board.

So how did I immediately know the cap had blown? You'll notice that all the caps have a flat top with an X scored on the top. The purpose of the scoring is to provide a weak point for the cap when it pops. You may notice some dirt and/or a small hole and/or a bulge in the top of the cap.

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can remove and replace the cap in about 5 minutes once you've unplugged the unit and removed the board from the chassis. When installing an electrolytic cap you MUST OBSERVE POLARITY! One side of the cap will be marked with a stripe with a "-" sign. That side goes into the shaded, rearward hole on the board.

If you're not comfortable soldering, any electronics repair shop can do it for you. The cap itself is less than $2. If you don't have an electronics supply store nearby you can order from Radio Shack or Jameco (the better choice).

Hope this helps someone out there in ReplayTV Land!

Thank you so much for this post. As far as mine goes, the 2200 was toast. In addition, there was a 47uf 50V cap nearby which had a very high ESR. I replaced that one as well. The others checked out OK.