Exactly one week later, at 2pm, we are boarding the ferry to the island of Savaii. With
the Giant African Snail spread on the island of Upolu but not yet on Savaii, our LandCruiser is sprayed by the
quarantine before embarking. The crossing is short and bumpy: After 1½ hours, we already
approach the port of Salelolaga in the Southeast of the island.

151
Two of the traditional, mostly very

simple Beach Fale that can be rented all

around the island for approximately 60 Tala

per person (= US$ 23), including breakfast

and dinner. Here on the East coast in Lano

152
Peaceful tropical scenery

along the East coast near Lano

153
Beach Fales  here near

Faga on the East coast 

guarantee an authentic Samoan

accommodation experience

It is mid afternoon, when we slowly drive along the palm fringed East coast to the
North. It looks more rural than in Upolu,
less populated and wilder. Now and then, a small community pops up with an impressive
church  like everywhere  towering at its center and some breezy beach fales
lining the shore. Arriving at the Northern tip, we drive past a vast field of old lava
flow, reminder of the eruptions of Mt. Matavanu between 1905 and 1911, where fresh green
plants started to grow again.

154
Coconut palm trees fringe a

stretch of the East coast near Faga

155
The shrine in Puapua at the

East coast with Maria and child Jesus

is protected by a fale-shaped roof

156
On the Northeastern corner

lies a lava field between Mauga and

Saleaula, scattered with green plants.

It is witness of the Mt. Matavanu

eruptions between 1905 and 1911

We check in at the Boutique-style Beach Resort Le Lagoto, situated at one of
the Northerly sandy beaches, once more at a reduced rate, arranged by the Ministry of
Tourism. Our traditionally built bungalow is spacious, but facing the street, which shows
to be not entirely lifeless during the night. Additionally, each morning at 4am we are
woken up by the honking local bus that lets passengers know that it is arriving.

157
Another of the impressive

churches is in the village of Salelologa

on the East coast, where the ferry

landing is close by. Mostly there

are several churches in each village

158
At the evening prayers, the

empty propane tank has the function

of a church bell. The tank is hit with

a stick. At the first strucks of the bell,

all activities cease. At the second ones

each family gathers for evening prayer

and at the third time the vesper is over

159
Fale-style villages are the

most characteristic feature in Samoa

(North coast near Safai - Fagamalo)

At our tropical fruit breakfast at the open air beach restaurant, we meet Andrea and
Frank with their two children Sarah and Roger  Germans, who migrated to New Zealands South Island three years ago. We connect
immediately and it feels good to be able to talk animatedly about things of mutual
interest. Emil is absorbed in such an extent in the conversation, that at 9am I have to
remind him that actually we want to surround the only 659 sq.mi. small island today as the
day looks promising with blue skies and sun.

160
A rainbow appears over the

restaurant of Le Lagoto Beach Resort

in Fagamalo on the North coast,

where we spend three nights .....

161
..... and enjoy every morning

a tropical breakfast consisting of fruits .....

162
..... and the sunset in the

evening at the swimming pool

We head west along a lovely coast with beautiful outlooks to the sea. Grazing horses
 still a mean of transport in Savaii  undermine the peaceful rural scene.
Then, we approach Cape Mulinuu, the most westerly point of Savaii. Samoan like to promote
the idea that this is the most westerly location of the globe where today ends 
everything after that being already tomorrow. Its not exactly like that: The
American Midway Islands as well as also the Howland & Baker Islands lay a bit more to
the West, apart from the most westerly Aleutian Islands in Alaska that are actually
situated already west of the 180° meridian, but have the same time zone as Hawaii 
everything sounds pretty complicated!

163
A grave of a departed is

lovingly built in the shape of a

house at the North coast. Graves 

sometimes monumental structures 

are often to be found near the homes

164
The weathered church

in Safotu at the North coast

has still an original character

165
We are driving through a taro

plantation with huge leaves towards

Cape Mulinuu, the most westerly

point of Savaii. Taro is the main

diet of the Samoan people

Emils eyes are now fixed more and more to the odometer. Exactly at 655'127.6 km he stops. Why? This
funny number is marking our 400000th driven mile on our around-the-world-journey
since October 16th, 1984 (1 mile = 1.609344 km minus 11390km driven before leaving
on October 16th, 1984). Of course, we want to capture this special milestone with a
picture and give it a toast. It is wonderful that it happened coincidentally just at this
beautiful and famous spot.

166
The North coast direction West

is lush green and very beautiful

167
Natural swimming pools along the

shore are the special feature of Savaii

 partly fresh water, partly sea water

168
Forgotten palm covered

islands along the North coast

As soon as we head south, the weather changes abruptly and heavy rain starts to fall,
hiding every view for many miles. Why do we not stop for a lunch break? The weather might
approve in the meantime. But only at the Nuu Black Sand Beach in the South we
find a place to pull out and eat our picnic: bread, cheese, boiled eggs, ham und fruits,
and  as always  accompanied by a big bottle of the local Samoan Vailima beer.

Our speculation works out even: Soon the skies clear and the sun returns. But time is
too short now to backtrack to Cape Suisui to see the famous Alofaaga blowhole at the
Southwest corner. It is also too short to visit the Afu Aau waterfall in Palauli in front
of us, if we want to be back at our Beach Resort before dusk.

172
The Southwest coast is rough.

Huge waves crash against the

shore at Samata-i-Tai

173
On their way back home,

three curious school

girls stop at our car

174
A traditional thatched house

is nestled between black lava and

tropical green at the Southwest coast

However, two days later, we enjoy these two impressive tourist attractions. When we
approach the blowhole, the ocean is raging from a close storm; the waves are crashing
against the black lava shoreline with a ferocious force, showering our LandCruiser
constantly with saltwater. Water fountains skyrocket in the air, falling then like
fireworks in cascades back to the sea.

175
The Afu Aau Waterfalls at

Palauli in Southern Savaii are surrounded

by jungle foliage. The biggest fall plunges

into a three meter deep refreshing pool .....

176
..... that is also fed

by delicate falls

177
Two small cascades of the

Afu Aau Falls, which tumble

into the Falealila stream

The most exciting performance, however, presents the Alofaaga blowhole itself: With an
incredible power, it tosses a jet of water about 200ft into the blue sky  a
beautiful spectacle! From this incredible force of nature we head to the peaceful Afu Aau
waterfall, nestled in lush tropical foliage.

178
Some remnants of a distant

storm are raging at the rough lava

coast in the South of the island

179
With an incredible power, the

Alofaaga blowhole at Cape Asuisui

near Taga in the South tosses a jet

of water about 200ft. into the air

180
The huge waves crashing

onto the lava coast in the South

produce beautiful water fountains

It is a perfect place to say good bye to laid-back Savaii. Two hours later, we are
already sailing back to Upolu. The sea is
pretty rough; we are sailing also against the waves and are glad when we reach land
safely.

181
Two girls doing laundry

where the river drops straight

into the stormy ocean

182
Wind and waves have cut

an arch into the black lava

rocks on the South coast

183
Some remnants of a distant

storm has whipped up the ocean on the

South coast  where are the surfers?

The remaining days until our departure spin away: We are sorting out pictures, updating
our website and dissolve our temporary household. The closer the 1st of July moves, the
sadder we become. Samoa has been three months home away from home. It was a peaceful and
happy time on this very beautiful and relaxed island, where on May 8th, we were also able
to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary and
on June 7th our 9000th day on the road
around the world.

184
A young boy carries his

heavy coconut load on a

pole over his shoulder

185
Children are always ready

to pose for a picture

186
There is nothing to hide. The

whole household is visible for

everybody at the traditional Fale

This small dot in the Pacific Ocean with its welcoming people has enriched our lives.
When at midnight MV Lady Naomi leaves for Pago Pago in American Samoa, we both know that Samoa has captured a very
special place in our hearts.