how do you guys think this compares to the parkzone corsair, i have been flying the corsair for a while and i really like the look of the Focke Wulf FW190, you think its as easy to fly as the corsair? also does it have the same gearbox as the parkzone p51 and the spit? i would also be looking for the air frame, whats the largest lipo you can get in the battery tray?

how do you guys think this compares to the parkzone corsair, i have been flying the corsair for a while and i really like the look of the Focke Wulf FW190, you think its as easy to fly as the corsair? also does it have the same gearbox as the parkzone p51 and the spit? i would also be looking for the air frame, whats the largest lipo you can get in the battery tray?

Hey drigg,
This Focke wolf will be much easier than the corsiar. The gearbox is weaker then the one on your corsair. The one in your corsair is brushless, and will go much faster. you can use the battery from your corsair on the FW
good luck
--PvT

how do you guys think this compares to the parkzone corsair, i have been flying the corsair for a while and i really like the look of the Focke Wulf FW190, you think its as easy to fly as the corsair? also does it have the same gearbox as the parkzone p51 and the spit? i would also be looking for the air frame, whats the largest lipo you can get in the battery tray?

Just my experience. I fly the PZ Corsair, Spitfire, P-51 and FW-190. All with AXI outrunners and DX-7 transmitter. I rate them in that order from easiest to hardest to fly. Never tried to hand launch the Corsair. FW-190 is the easiest for me to hand launch then P-51 and Spitfire.

The Spitfire, P-51 and FW-190 all have the same stock motor and gearbox. FW-190 has a huge battery compartment.

I just acquired a new (in the box) PZ FW190 from a flying buddy and the conversion to brushless is almost complete. I removed all of the original electrics and have installed a brushless Turnigy 2213/20 1050 KV and will use a 3S 2200 20C LIPO and two 9g micro servos. The receiver is a Spektrum 6110e. The battery tray is a perfect fit for the Zippy. My software tells me that I should get excellent performance using a 10X7E prop and I'm anxious to see if that is true.I think this is the best looking warbird they've produced but, it appears to be a bit flimsy compared to the newer PZ warbirds like the Corsair, T28, etc. I'd love to put landing gear on it if I can figure out a sturdy and durable way to do it.Any tips or ideas will be appreciated.

Well, the LHS didn't have the "small" mount I wanted so I ended up fabricating a stand-off mount. I found 4"X5/32" round plywood discs at Hobby Lobby (the craft store not the RC store) and used one to attach to the front of the plastic cage/support. I removed the cage and all remnants of the 27 mhz system and then began building the motor mount. Once the motor mount was finished, the rest of the conversion was a breeze. I installed new servos, my receiver, and ESC and stuffed the cage back in the fuselage and hooked everything up. Installation of the wing and horizontal was easy and fast. I used clear packing tape in some areas to assist the old glue that was starting to turn loose. I prefer the tape to glue because it usually holds the joint just as well and looks better.I used 6-32 bolts and nuts and small diameter aluminum tubing (cut with a small tubing cutter) to build a stand-off mount to just the right distance. I spent most of yesterday working on the mount but, I could have done it in half the time if I hadn't had a false start with 4-40 hardware (too small). Anyway, I'm proud of the way it turned out and it will be easy to adjust the motor angle providing I didn't get it right the first time around. My builds always need adjustment after the first flight. I plan to make the first flight tomorrow providing the weatherman hasn't lied to us again. Winds are supposed to be 10 to 15 mph which is a bit breezy for this bird (2 lbs ready to fly) but, I'll give it a try anyway. It should be fine. I also need to find a spinner for the bird because the stock spinner no longer fits. I wish I could figure out how to make it work but, the prop shaft on the new motor is about 3/8" too short.The CG came out just right using a 3S 2200 mah LIPO and it fits the battery tray perfectly. I think this bird is going to be a great flyer.I also used a small magnet glued to the battery hatch to hold it shut thus eliminating the need for the tiny screw. After trying serveral APC "E" props, I've settled on a 10X5E which pulls about 17amps and 189 watts at WOT. I tried an 11X5.5E and a 10X7E and they both drew 21amps which is about 2amps more than the max. for the motor. I may try a 10X6 later on to see if there's any significant difference.I'll post first flight results here in case anyone is interested.

First flight report: It didn't. I launched and it immediately pitched up about 70 degrees and rolled left. The controls were very sensitive and too much down and right resulted in an over-correction with up elevator and right aileron and the wind (blowing about 15 mph) took it like a leaf, turned it inverted, and it went nose first into the ground. I added 1 1/4 oz of weight to the nose to correct what I perceived as a tail heavy condition. Really, just a guess at this point because it wasn't in the air long enough to tell what it was or wasn't doing.

All was repaired in a couple of days and I attempted another flight today. Almost the same thing happened ....the only difference was the nose did not pitch up. It rolled left, I over corrected to the right and then back to the left, it stalled and crashed. The fuselage is pretty beaten up and I need to replace the plastic cage (broken in serval places). The foam covering on the wing broke in a couple of places and was easily hot-glued back into position. The skid-pan also came loose along one side so, I hot-glued both sides to make sure it was sturdy. I will attempt another flight as soon as I replace the interior cage and the cowling.

I don't know what's causing this thing to roll left because there's plenty of down-right angle on the motor. I can't see any warp in the wing or fuselage so, it's a mystery to me. I hope I figure it out before I completely destroy it.

Hey Rowdyjoe; sorry to hear about the false starts and damage I remember upgrading from a brushed to a brushless motor with a bigger prop on a cheap arf trainer last year. I could not get it to fly at all. It continually pulled hard to the left, with the resulting over correction and crash damage. All i could put it down to was torque reaction from the performance "improvements". Does it glide with the power off? Could you try it with the stock set up? Just my 2 cents worth

Hey Rowdyjoe; sorry to hear about the false starts and damage I remember upgrading from a brushed to a brushless motor with a bigger prop on a cheap arf trainer last year. I could not get it to fly at all. It continually pulled hard to the left, with the resulting over correction and crash damage. All i could put it down to was torque reaction from the performance "improvements". Does it glide with the power off? Could you try it with the stock set up? Just my 2 cents worth

I haven't tried the glide test.(Duh!) I'll do that before the next attempt at powered flight. Sounds like I'm having the same issue and I thought it could be torque. I have a 10X5E prop mounted on it with a pretty hot little motor although, it shouldn't be overpowered with this set-up. I've read all of the posts I could find about converting this bird to brushless and most folks used a larger motor but, did not report this problem. Before the next attempt, I'll give the ailerons some right trim and reduce travel to about 60% on the ailerons and elevator. That should help with the tendency to over-control when I panick. I considered replacing the stock set-up but, didn't want give-in to it. I can be pretty stubborn. If I knew then what I know now, I would probably have left it stock and just used a LIPO instead of the NIMH. That alone would have been a good performance improvement. Thanks for the reply and the tip on the glide test.

Guys, take a look at the GWS-190. It is available in standard beer cooler foam or EPO foam which is a little heavier but much tougher. I bought the EPO unpainted no electrics kit for around 60 bucks. It is the same size as the PZ. The only thing "wrong" with the kit is the cowl is cheezy, but useable. Plus is it has landing gear, rudder control with steerable tailwheel. The engineering on the kit is great, and building was no problem.

I Built a GWS Zero this winter and was pleased with how it turned out. I put a cheap Tower pro outrunner on it and put a 1300mah 3s battery in it. It will fly around for half an hour at 1/4 throttle. My PKZ FW 190 has served me well. I have hundreds of flights on it and the fuse is starting to split down the middle and it is looking a little rough. I have looked and looked but cant seem to locate one on line or in any local hobby shops. I don't feel like paying $70 for a fuse with electronics. I could get the GWS 190 for that. I may just have to do a "restoration" on my existing fuse.

Last night I removed all of the 2.4ghz/brushless conversion stuff from my FW 190 and re-installed the stock motor and servos. I plan to fly (hopefully) with a 3s 20C LIPO which should give it a bit of a boost in performance. We'll see how it goes.This was a brand new plane when I started the conversion and I've wrecked it twice trying to get it to fly with the brushless conversion. So, we'll see how she does with the stock gear and a good battery ...and the stock prop. I was about to install a larger BL motor but, decided to go back to stock. If it flys well then I'll reconsider the BL motor and re-think my conversion engineering.

Hey Rowdyjoe, hope it works. Some planes benefit from an instant upgrade, others are best left stock. Most fall somewhere in between. Nothing worse than making improvements and it doesn't fly. At least you have some good quality spares now. As they say, third time lucky; all the best for the next attempt.

Hey Rowdyjoe, hope it works. Some planes benefit from an instant upgrade, others are best left stock. Most fall somewhere in between. Nothing worse than making improvements and it doesn't fly. At least you have some good quality spares now. As they say, third time lucky; all the best for the next attempt.

Sorry guys. I forgot to report back. It flys great with a 3S 2200mah 20C battery (perfect fit in the battery tray) and I'm getting about 9 to 10 min. flight time. I fly it on "high" rates and it does very well ....nice and smooth. Now, I'm happy.