Overview

These hard-to-find fasteners make building a bed a snap. One pack of four fasteners will complete a bed. Features quick assembly and disassembly. Requires mortising for recessed mounting. Can be Installed with mallet, chisel, drill bits and drill. Made of heavy steel.

Used these rails to make a solid walnut bed for my daughter. The tight fit of the rail to the foot and headboards makes a very strong connection. Now, setting out to make two solid oak beds. The fasteners have worked well for heavy wood.

Used these rails to make a solid walnut bed for my daughter. The tight fit of the rail to the foot and headboards makes a very strong connection. Now, setting out to make two solid oak beds. The fasteners have worked well for heavy wood.

I'm a carpenter not a furniture maker but am going to build a bed frame for my daughter. I've looked at dozens of fasteners and different ways to fasten the rails. These seemed like they would be the strongest and most solid. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I want a more secure method of fastening the side rails of the bed I'm making as opposed to mortise and tenon method suggested on the plans I'm using. Also an easier way to assemble and disassemble the bed.

I'm a carpenter not a furniture maker but am going to build a bed frame for my daughter. I've looked at dozens of fasteners and different ways to fasten the rails. These seemed like they would be the strongest and most solid. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I want a more secure method of fastening the side rails of the bed I'm making as opposed to mortise and tenon method suggested on the plans I'm using. Also an easier way to assemble and disassemble the bed.

BEST ANSWER:The most accurate dimensions are in metric units. Each plate is 14.9 cm long, 1.5 cm (15 mm) wide, and 4 mm thick. Each hook is also 4 mm thick, and extends just 7 mm deep (NOT 1/2") into the post, IN ADDITION to the 4 mm plate thickness. Plates are slightly tapered on the sides only, with the inside width being about 14 mm wide. Both plates are the same size. The back side of the "hooks" are riveted and extend 2.5 mm behind the rail plate. Each riveted "head" on the back of each hook is small, 6 mm wide and 8 mm tall. Each plate has three tapered screw holes to take flat head screws. The whole thing seems to be very sturdy and well-made.

BEST ANSWER:The most accurate dimensions are in metric units. Each plate is 14.9 cm long, 1.5 cm (15 mm) wide, and 4 mm thick. Each hook is also 4 mm thick, and extends just 7 mm deep (NOT 1/2") into the post, IN ADDITION to the 4 mm plate thickness. Plates are slightly tapered on the sides only, with the inside width being about 14 mm wide. Both plates are the same size. The back side of the "hooks" are riveted and extend 2.5 mm behind the rail plate. Each riveted "head" on the back of each hook is small, 6 mm wide and 8 mm tall. Each plate has three tapered screw holes to take flat head screws. The whole thing seems to be very sturdy and well-made.

Both plates are 5/8 x 6" x 1/8" thick. The male fingers are 3/16 thick and stand 7/16 above the outer surface of the mounting plate with a small projection of approx 1/16 below the bottom surface. Hope this helps.

Sorry I did not notice this question sooner. The depth is 1/8 inch for the slotted bracket, but the hook part of the bracket requires chiseling (or drilling) out an additional 3/16th or so dimples on the back sides of where the hooks attach. It is best if the hook side mortise is made slightly deeper than 1/8 inch so that the hook pulls the bed rail up tight against the leg when inserted into the slots.

The brackets fit into a mortise 9/16" wide x 5-7/8" long x 5/32" deep. The mortise in the post will require additional mortising of 2 slots 1/4" wide x 1-1/4 long x 1/2" deep INSIDE the mortise for the plate, to allow hooks from the bracket in the rail to engage.

Hi Glenda. I'm a professional furniture maker in Dallas, and I've used these hangers for several beds. The quality is very good for the price, and I will definitely be using them again. That said, I'm not quite sure they're going to help you achieve what you want to do, if I understand your question correctly. I don't think that you'll be able to essentially 'daisy chain' on extra length using these hangers. There just won't be enough support, and the rail will sag. Unless you use them to fasten to another post midway through the rail, thus dividing the needed length in two. Hopefully that makes sense. I think I'd just recommend using these hangers with a new rail that's the appropriate length. Hope that helps!

BEST ANSWER:My use for this product has been for a bed inside and not outside.We have had no problems with this hardware and it has held up very well.I would expect it to work well for an outside bed.

One suggestion - be very careful to install this product correctly.I did a trial run on 2 boards that were similar to what I would be using for the actual bed.This proved to be a very good idea because I did not get it done correctly the first time.

BEST ANSWER:My use for this product has been for a bed inside and not outside.We have had no problems with this hardware and it has held up very well.I would expect it to work well for an outside bed.

One suggestion - be very careful to install this product correctly.I did a trial run on 2 boards that were similar to what I would be using for the actual bed.This proved to be a very good idea because I did not get it done correctly the first time.

I suppose if the bed is not used like a rocking chair they will be fine. These are made in China and I used them to replace a set that were made in Germany. The screw holes were slightly off, necessitating a lot of extra work. You'll need some good tools to auger out the recessed area for the brackets, drill bits to make the holes, and you might want to invest in longer and much stronger screws...actually, you should definitely invest in longer steel wood screws.

Hi guys, I need help...Can these be used in triple tier bunk bed making? I've searched for weeks & whilst I have nut and 120mm m6 bolts my initial intention was to keep the bunks as streamline as possible without compromising safety. I'm using 4 2meter 2x4 posts with 2x6 side rails. Would the weight distribute evenly? Pls recommend a more HD type if known . Thanks

BEST ANSWER:Since each tier would be separately attached to your posts, there ought not be a problem of weight distribution. I'm assuming that the bunk bed is not intended for three overweight adults, but rather three kids, so the total weight should not be a problem with the 2X4 posts, as the rails assure that the bulk of the weight is transmitted straight down the posts. If you want to be super fail safe, you could structure a ledge on the posts just below the bottom of the side rails, but I really don't think it's necessary and it would make the design appear heavier. Good luck!

BEST ANSWER:Since each tier would be separately attached to your posts, there ought not be a problem of weight distribution. I'm assuming that the bunk bed is not intended for three overweight adults, but rather three kids, so the total weight should not be a problem with the 2X4 posts, as the rails assure that the bulk of the weight is transmitted straight down the posts. If you want to be super fail safe, you could structure a ledge on the posts just below the bottom of the side rails, but I really don't think it's necessary and it would make the design appear heavier. Good luck!

BEST ANSWER:The fasteners are 5/8. I didn't need to make the mortises, but I believe they should be very close to 5/8. I replaced some fasteners that had already been made and the fit had no noticeable margin. The fasteners dropped in flush on both sides. But the instructions say to bevel the sides of the mortise, so perhaps 9/16 beveled to 5/8 is what is wanted.

BEST ANSWER:The fasteners are 5/8. I didn't need to make the mortises, but I believe they should be very close to 5/8. I replaced some fasteners that had already been made and the fit had no noticeable margin. The fasteners dropped in flush on both sides. But the instructions say to bevel the sides of the mortise, so perhaps 9/16 beveled to 5/8 is what is wanted.

End-grain fasteners in wood are not very strong and it is difficult to find pull-out value for end-grain connections. If you are trying to create a stiff and ridged connection between the post and rail, how reliable is this fastener connection or should another type of hardware be considered? Boys on bunk beds tend to be a bit rambunctious.

BEST ANSWER:I was paranoid about safety when I built a loft bed for my 4 year old grandson. This product seemed to be the strongest I could find on the market. I drilled the pilot holes carefully in the end grain and put a fastener at the top of the side fence as well as at the bottom on each end. It is rock solid in spite of my grandson and his rambunctious friends.

BEST ANSWER:I was paranoid about safety when I built a loft bed for my 4 year old grandson. This product seemed to be the strongest I could find on the market. I drilled the pilot holes carefully in the end grain and put a fastener at the top of the side fence as well as at the bottom on each end. It is rock solid in spite of my grandson and his rambunctious friends.

I actually used these for the main crossbar connections on a mission style cradle for my grand kids. I used 4" long screws in the end grain, pre-drilled so there was no chance of splitting. They ere hidden and work great. Hold well and make it a take down cradle. Which is a good thing at it's weight.

BEST ANSWER:Frankly don't remember and as the bed I used them on is assembled, can't really check; they're either #6 or #8. Suggest you take one of the fittings to the hardware store when you get the screws. The important thing is to get them as large as possible for strength, but small enough that the head does not protrude above the surface at all. Even a slight protrusion will prevent the fasteners from fitting together.

BEST ANSWER:Frankly don't remember and as the bed I used them on is assembled, can't really check; they're either #6 or #8. Suggest you take one of the fittings to the hardware store when you get the screws. The important thing is to get them as large as possible for strength, but small enough that the head does not protrude above the surface at all. Even a slight protrusion will prevent the fasteners from fitting together.

I used # 10 screws. One inch for the slotted half (depends, obviously, on the thickness of your head/footboard legs); and 1 1/4 for part that attaches to the ends of the rails (but it doesn't hurt to go 1/4 inch longer).

BEST ANSWER:My impression would be "no," but as long as you kept the two mating surfaces clear and separate, then I see no reason why you couldn't make it work. ...But not outside the upholstery; they have to be inletted into the post and the rail. Good luck.

BEST ANSWER:My impression would be "no," but as long as you kept the two mating surfaces clear and separate, then I see no reason why you couldn't make it work. ...But not outside the upholstery; they have to be inletted into the post and the rail. Good luck.

BEST ANSWER:I didn't have existing hooks to check them on since I was making a new bed. You could probably replace the existing hook plate with the one in the set. This set worked great for me and I would recommend them.

BEST ANSWER:I didn't have existing hooks to check them on since I was making a new bed. You could probably replace the existing hook plate with the one in the set. This set worked great for me and I would recommend them.

These fasteners where used to contruct beds we purchased for our boys years ago. Now I am considering lengthening the beds to accomodate extra-long mattresses which would entail removing and reinstalling the brackets on new, longer side rails. So, question, how easy and what is the best way to install these?

A shopper
on May 26, 2015

BEST ANSWER:Should be fairly easy. See my reply (Dean G) above. Basically, all you'll need to do is inlet the rail sections into the ends of the new rails, which mainly involves some careful chiseling. Good luck!

BEST ANSWER:Should be fairly easy. See my reply (Dean G) above. Basically, all you'll need to do is inlet the rail sections into the ends of the new rails, which mainly involves some careful chiseling. Good luck!

I have a homeowner that would like to use the heavy duty wrought steel bedrail fasteners on their bunkbed ladders so the can be moved when needed. I was wondering if you have it in on one hook system instead of the double hook?

BEST ANSWER:I wouldn't use these for bunkbed ladders. They work great for bed rails that are fit very tight. If they are the least bit loose, they will not stay fastened, even with the downward force naturally occurring under use. In fact, I would not personally use them for a top bunk in bunkbed applications because of the natural behavior of children [Kicking the top rails while in the bottom bunk seems much too likely for me.

I made a very tight fit in the beds I have used them on, and have provided a dead blow mallet with each bed so that they can be easily assembled and disassembled.

I use the double hook fasteners. I wouldn't trust single hook units in bed applications.

BEST ANSWER:I wouldn't use these for bunkbed ladders. They work great for bed rails that are fit very tight. If they are the least bit loose, they will not stay fastened, even with the downward force naturally occurring under use. In fact, I would not personally use them for a top bunk in bunkbed applications because of the natural behavior of children [Kicking the top rails while in the bottom bunk seems much too likely for me.

I made a very tight fit in the beds I have used them on, and have provided a dead blow mallet with each bed so that they can be easily assembled and disassembled.

I use the double hook fasteners. I wouldn't trust single hook units in bed applications.

BEST ANSWER:If the plates are inletted even just a tiny bit too much, or if the screw heads protrude even slightly above the surface, it will prevent them from fully engaging. Also, if the wood behind and below the slots isn't sufficiently removed, that will keep the hooks from fully engaging, as well. As you've undoubtedly noted, these fasteners are very solid and tight-fitting.

BEST ANSWER:If the plates are inletted even just a tiny bit too much, or if the screw heads protrude even slightly above the surface, it will prevent them from fully engaging. Also, if the wood behind and below the slots isn't sufficiently removed, that will keep the hooks from fully engaging, as well. As you've undoubtedly noted, these fasteners are very solid and tight-fitting.

I am looking to disassemble a sleigh bed headboard and footboard into 3 pieces (sides and center) to take them up a narrow flight of stairs. I would like to use this hardware on the sideposts of the pieces to make the headboard and footboard able to be reassembled without looking like they're separate pieces. They are solid wood - Queen size. What is the weight limit for these brackets? Would they work for this?

Reviews

Excellent product. When installed properly, makes for a very solid bed frame. Some of the reviews mention two problems: 1 the middle screw for the female piece interferes with the hook on the male piece. 2 The height of the male and female pieces don't match up. These problems are both caused by installing the female piece upside down. Another potential problem is that the screws for the male piece screw into end grain on the bed rail and might work loose over time. This can be resolved by drilling a 1/2&quot; diameter hole from the underside of each bed frame end and inserting a 1/2&quot; diameter wood dowel. The hole and dowel should be positioned about 1&quot; from the end of the bed frame so that the screws will screw into the dowel which will solve the end grain problem.

Let me say one thing first......these bed rail fasteners are absolutely awesome and here is why:Late last October (2016) I decided to build a heavy duty Mission style bed frame. After sleeping in many a bed (I'm 63) with a headboard that was "shaky" or "wobbly"..... my first concern was how I was going to attach the bedrails to the headboard and footboard so I wouldn't wind up with that problem. It was critical that I had an absolutely solid bed platform/frame that didn't budge at all. I read all the reviews on these fasteners and realized that they could possibly be my answer but I wasn't 100% positive. After stressing over it for a while I said what the heck, I will give them a try. If they don't work out then I will find some other fastening hardware and learn my lesson. I kept in mind one particular reviewer that made a point of mentioning the fact that the part with the "hooks" were not welded and really should have been. So when I got mine I had my next door neighbor do a spot weld on the back side of the fastener where the hook is attached and crimped. At least I think it was crimped or maybe pressed in there....idk. Point being......this is an absolute must. Especially if you are working with a heavy duty frame like I was. I mean hey, it only took him 10 minutes. Well worth it. Next important step is to try and get your mortise depth as accurate as possible. It really does make a difference. If you are too deep then the rail won't seat. If your are not deep enough, the wood rail will not touch the mating surface of the head board of footboard. After I mortised all the parts I found that I had mortised a touch too deep. That made the rail too tight and even trying to carefully hammer it down into place with a rubber mallet wasn't going to work. The answer was to shim the fastener back out a touch using card stock. I found that each of the 4 joints needed a shim or maybe 2 shims. It was that precise. This worked well as I was able to "dial-in" each joint to perfection. For me......having to hammer down on each joint a bit, not very hard though (just enough to seat the joint properly) made the connection super strong. (My rails were about 6" in height) I then made sure to dry fit each joint before applying the finish which was 4 coats of hand rubbed Teak oil. Another important thing I should mention: make sure you bore a hole and glue in a dowel near the end of the rails due to the fact that you want the screws for the fasteners to bite into side grain wood of the dowel instead of just the end grain of the rail. In my case I had 1" thick rails so I used a 1/2" dowel. So after dry fitting each joint and then applying the finish the day finally came to set up the bed. I was anxious. What if the bed was unsturdy and wobbled?.......I certainly didn't want to have to dissasemble the whole bed and take it back into the shop to figure out some other way to fasten the bed together, not after all that work mortising in these fasteners. But.....to my amazement, the bed came together perfectly, and I have to say, I was amazed at how strong the rails attached and made the bed absolutely solid and rigid!....My headboard is about 45" tall. If I stand and try to push on the footboard the bed will not budge a fraction of an inch. If I try to push at the top of the headboard it might budge 1/32"......maybe! I was totally blown away.So, if your are on the fence about buying these fasteners, do not hesitate. They will be strong and rigid if mortised in properly, and you will have a solid frame that can easily be knocked down and taken apart.Just as a side note: I am a cabinet/furniture maker and have been in the business almost 40 years. My bed frame is made from solid white oak. The finish is Seafin Teak oil, 4 coats hand rubbed.

Once I figured out how to mortise the ends of the rails the hardware was easily enough installed. I installed them in a bed I use in my tent for camping. For a bed that will be assembled and left in place they are fine, but a bed that is assembled and disassembled often they are not so good. The tenons tend to come out of the mortises when moving the bed. I drilled the posts just above the rails and inserted short dowels to lock in the rails. Now I can assemble the bed where there is plenty of room, then move it into the corner without the whole thing coming apart.

I used these fasteners on a classic cherry bed I built in 2005. They failed this month (12/09), probably due to my (now) 7 year old jumping off the footboard onto the mattress. The tabs on the male fastener pulled through the plate, dropping the bed rails to the floor. Two of the four tabs in the foot end of the bed pulled through outright, the others were bent and ready to fail in the same manner.I can't stop a kid from jumping on the bed, and I'll replace these fasteners with same so I don't have to rework the bed - but fingers are crossed. I cannot recommend these for a bunk bed!

You may be interested to know that the 4&quot; fasteners will not fully seat together in their current configuration if all three screws are installed. The center screw interferes with the upper hook on the hook portion and prohibits the hook side from fully seating. Filing a little bit more than 1/8&quot; from the point on the upper hook will allow proper seating. Of course, one can simply eliminate the center screw on the slotted side, but I don't recommend that.

The middle screw must be left out on the female fitting, as it will interfere with the male hook. Additional tenons must also be cut for back side of hook that is stamped in - not welded. [] Rockler has always been my first choice in hardware. This was the exception.

I've made several (like almost 30) cradles over the years, and this was my first go at one that could be taken apart for storage. This hardware is by far more than I need, but rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Mortising for the rail fasteners was a breeze, a little hand chisel for the &quot;hook&quot; end and it all went together perfectly.

We recently purchased a antique oak bed. It had a beautiful headboard and foot board but was missing its side rails. My husband used the bed rail fasteners on an pine boards to make new side rails. With the help of the 6 inch bed rail fasteners we have a lovely antique double bed, that is also very sturdy. He found the fasteners easy to work with. The other good part is that the fasteners arrived in only two days from placing the order. You folks at Rockler rock.

Used the H.D. steel fasteners to refurbish/replace the bed rail head and foot board connections on a oak bed. I substituted rails I had on hand from another bed to make a sturdier bed for my 16 year old grandson. The fasteners worked great!! Slept on the bed this past weekend and there was no movement of the frame at all. I will use these on future projects

I have used these bed fasteners for building three bunk beds. The first was for my two boys and the last two beds were for grown men. These fasteners are strong and very easy to install. They have been able to withstand heavy abuse and under heavy lodes. I will be buying these for each bed I build.

The quality of the rail fasteners is great. The books have a slight wedge on the inside which draws the rails and posts even tighter when assembled. My only complaint was the shipping time. It took over a week to receive them.

I made a wood headboard,footboard, and side rails for my Granddaughter. I looked at your website and saw these bed rail fasteners. I really like the way your website gives a color picture of products. The rail brackets work great. Thanks for making my bed building much easier. The bed rails lock in and make bed sturdy and easy to take apart.

I have been making our kids log beds and I have found Rockler's hardware perfect for what I needed. I could not find this hardware at any other store in our town or others in our area. The bed has a great tight fit and has no movment at all. I will use this hardware for all of my beds. Thank you Rockler. The product is wonderful and I plan on telling other people about your website

I first used this item on bunk-beds I built for two of my daughters. They were children and like most kids were rambunctious kids. they liked to play on the beds, especially on the top. When they got to be too big for the beds, they were as solid and sturdy as the day they were built. I had built them from oak, but I feel the sturdiness was due also to the fact these rail bed fasteners were so stable and kept the beds ridgid.

Measurements are inconsistent to the minute, but in general, they hold. I would give 4.5 stars, but 4 is too low.You might have to maybe, customize the mortises, but it's expected.The product is rock solid, very sturdy. Totally recommended.

This is the second set of these bed rail fasteners I have purchased. Easy to install, quick assemble and breakdown. Excellent product. Hopefully this is the last bed I build, but if doing another, I would most likely use this same hardware.

This project spanned cutting the walnut and locust in the woodlot to many future good nights of sleep. Lots of fitting and joinery to match the honey locust crotches and the curved walnut posts to the 8 inch platform of walnut. The bed rail fasteners are exactly what I was looking for to mate the heavy pieces safely and easily.

These bed rail fasteners are remarkably solid. Just what we needed to complete our project. There is no fear they might not be strong enough to support even the heaviest of sleepers. Highly recommend them to anyone who wants to make their own bed frame.

This was the first time I used this product on a bed that I built. I had built a bed in the past and used a different method to attach the side rails. The bed rail fasteners made the assembly way faster and easier than ever and still had a solid fit. The set I got required some slight filing to achieve an exact fit, but it was very simple and done with a regular hand file.

My last project was a three mattress student loft bunk bed, these bed rail fasteners held perfectly. I used 5/4 oak for the side rails, which made it very strong. They showed up at my shop very fast. I will use these bed rail fasteners for all of the beds I build in the future.

I received the brackets earlier than expected after being on back order, which was great! I ordered the 4" size and they measured true to the data sheet from the website at 4 1/8" x 5/8". We used a 5/8" router bit for cutting our maple wood and the bracket fit perfectly.