I drive it like I stole it. bought it new in March 2007. 2.0L zx3
I live in vegas, it gets hot.

This summer was a tough one on the little car. the heavy rains we had 2 weeks ago may have been the silver bullet that killed it,

FSWerks CAI sucked up water and vapor locked it.. I got it running. sounded good. Swapped out fluids but yesterday I tossed a connecting rod through the bottom of the motor when takin off from a light.

Called my buddy. towed it, he called me telling me a junk dealer has a motor $550 6m/6000m warrenty. with 35k miles on it

not great but.. not bad...

Plans to flush new engine and put in my normal engine oils.. Mobile 1 Syn, and Royal Purple.

Engine mounts are 1 year old. so not changing them.I own FSwerks CAI, I have the fswerks stealth exaust.

was thinking about installing a underpully. but my main question is without spendin much since this is going to cost a bundle what should I consider..

is a 2.3L an option that is cost effective if so, other then the Block what should I consider replacing.. never explored the 2.3L can it take abuse.

should I just do a race headers since I do not need smog. and get a sct?

Hydriliced it huh? That's why I run a Steeda SRI. I'd do the FSwerk's header, & CFM's UDP's. I not sure what it take's as far as ECU's= 20 to 23. I do a Poly dogbone for sure= lower engine mount. Good luck on your motor, you'll get it going again.

I would recommend the 2.3L (D23) to anyone who's looking to replace their engine. It's a little less efficient as far as fuel economy is concerned, but the benefits from the power are worth it. If you buy one as is, it will give you an extra 20 horses over the 2.0L (D20).

If you have the money or the time, you could also look into re-building it with some forged pistons and rods. As well as deciding to build it for F/I (low comp piston) or NA (high comp piston).

Since you have a 2007, it will pretty much be a direct swap for you, however you will have to purchase the accessory belt for the D23 as well as the correct passenger motor mount (or use washers to raise your current one by 1/2 an inch), as the D23 is 1/2 an inch taller and the intermediate bracket for the passenger cv axel will not line up properly if you don’t. I would also recommend that you use the IM from your D20, so that you will not have to swap out your ECU and harness for the D23 equivalents. You will also have to drill a hole in the dip stick that is 1/2 an inch higher than the original hole to equate for the difference in height. Other than that, just swap all your accessories and sensors over to the new engine.

I am not doing the work, just over seeing it. I am having surgery on tuesday so I cannot work on cars for 2 months. I got a master tech doing it for me. When i found this guy I found gold... but do not want to make to much trouble for him... if a 2.3 isnt just a little bit of extra work I dont wanna bother.. but I am strongly considering the headers and UnderDrivePully kit. these seem easy.

I was referring to rebuilding a 2.3L. Also you can't get the oil dipstick for the 2.3 as it is made for the 2.3 IM and will not bolt up correctly to your 2.0 IM. You have to drill a hole in the 2.0 dipstick tube if you are using the 2.0 IM.

I really wouldn't consider drilling a hole to be a lot of work, especially when you're talking about installing an engine.

If you read what I wrote above you will realize that unless you are going to use the IM from the 2.3 engine, you will not need anything from the 2.3 other than the engine itself.

The 2.3 IM has a set of tumble flaps that the 2.0 IM does not have. Thus if you plan to use it you will need the harness and the ECU from the 2.3 in order to utilize it. That is why I recommended that you stick with your 2.0 IM and keep it simple.

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