News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

I know that there has almost always been a nest on hotter than hell but I was told that there was a large nest halfway up inferno from the tree covered ledge, I love thoes two climbs but I am very allergic to getting stung, anyone have any info??? thanks. DP

Can't speak to Inferno, but this is clearly an active time/weather cycle for the little varmints. I was stung last year this time hiking over the S. Buttress (we did HTH and P2+3 of Inferno, didn't see any on the climb or ledges). I also saw several jigging around while on either SOH or Pathfinder last Thursday, probably Pathfinder as it was mid-afternoon. They were not very aggressive, plus I've got a yellow rope and orange helmet - seems to attract them?Dale

Just curious. Which bolt was added to HTH after the FA? I seem to skip a bolt at the far right of the initial traverse (maybe not even on the climb but a sucker bolt from a neighbor?), but there is some reasonable gear that I could see allowing a hardman or -woman to skip one or two of the bolts. Dale

Logged

If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DLottmann

The bolt at the crux, the one that protects the awkward mantle move into the little pod high on the route. Webster's guide gives the history I believe. I think Matt Peer, the FAist, was drilling all on lead (free on lead) and was too gripped to place the crux bolt on his FA, so he returned and added it later "much to the chagrin of local hardmen" or something like that.

Glad Matt had the insight to retro-bolt it as I doubt it would see much traffic sans the crux bolt. Neighbor "Cold Day in Hell" is a harder climb, 5.10, but more protected and sees more traffic.

Logged

DLottmann

Oh, and speaking of that bolt, I have caught two partners on their first leader falls on that bolt! This past Sunday was the second one. With rope stretch it is about a 10 footer. Without that bolt it would be a forty footer.

The only problem with Cold Day is that it impacts several routes that "never get done" BS. Matt pussed out to local opinion on HTH. Should another bolt been placed on Children's P1 'cause the mantle is "scairey"

Logged

DLottmann

The only problem with Cold Day is that it impacts several routes that "never get done" BS. Matt pussed out to local opinion on HTH. Should another bolt been placed on Children's P1 'cause the mantle is "scairey"

I've only led Children's twice but isn't there a bolt right below the mantle? I don't remember it being run out, just thin/slippery...

So... Webster's account verbatim:

"Matt Peer & Craig Stemley made the first ascent on May 29, 1980, placing all the bolts on the lead. Thinking he'd probably fall off the crux move if he stopped to place another bolt, Matt went for it, successfully. The local consensus was that the unprotected crux runout should stay, as that was how the route was first led, but eventually Peer decided to add the bolt on rappel- "much to the dismay of the resident hardmen"- but to the greater benefit of most climbers!"

So here a first ascentionist who with a modest ego felt the climb would be better with a bolt at the crux. I am guessing he could have easily hung on a hook there during the FA as it seems to many of you that is so much more acceptable than bolting on rappel, but that was not his style. I believe the rest of the bolts were driven from stances, which is the only true "on lead" method IMO.

Regardless, saying he "pussed out", when he actually fired the crux sans bolt is a bit of an unwarranted insult to someone who contributed a really nice moderate to that area of Whitehorse, especially since it seems like "local opinion" was against him if Webster's history is correct.