Step 5: Adding storage benches

Step 6: Finishing touches, enclosures, hindsight remarks, etc.

I'd love to say that the project is over, but it unfortunately isn't. I still need to close of the space underneath the deck, but the weather is begin...

So we've had this very sturdy but extremely plain looking concrete porch in the back of the house, and we've always wanted to make it warmer and more inviting. The obvious solution, to us, was to replace it with a wooden one. Wood is by far warmer and better looking than concrete, and if you maintain it properly it can easily last a couple of decades before you need to start replacing a piece here or there. On the downside, obviously, is the commitment to maintain it regularly. And by regularly, I mean a thorough cleaning and restaining (or repainting) once every two or three years.

Replacing the concrete deck with wood could have been done in one of two ways: completely demolish the concrete porch and build a 100% wooden one in its place, or use the concrete as a base and just add wood on top of it. Since our concrete was in good condition and would offer a solid base we decided to keep it and just cover it all with wood.

Building a wooden deck this way does offer the advantage of not needing to worry about digging foundations, putting in joists, etc, but you do have to worry about the proper slope of the concrete porch, allowing for good water drainage, ensuring any parts that would be subjected to possible water pooling are treated against it, and such. I've done my best to protect against those things and take notes/photos of them, but I'm sure there's always room for improvement. If you're going to build something like this, remember this really important rule: an extra ten minutes spent putting in better water protection at this point will save you from headaches, hours of hours and $$$ in replacement materials down the road.

Not only do I prefer the aesthetic of a wooden deck more than a concrete deck, but I also prefer the maintenance. I know that concrete seems like it is easier to maintain, but damage is a nightmare to repair. Wooden decks are so much easier to repair, therefore they look nicer for longer. <a href='http://www.sweetmanstimber.com/decking-timber' >http://www.sweetmanstimber.com/decking-timber</a>

Great instructions and photos. I will be using part of them this summer. My existing patio is about 10 inches thick so it would be hard to remove so I plan to put a wood or composite deck on top. The new deck will extend past the cement by a few feet on both sides and the end so I plan to use standard deck piers for those sections. The cement I have is aggregate so it has exposed rocks, do you think silicone will still work? I read another post were they used a felt material, have you heard of that? I live just north of Seattle Washington so rain and moisture is a big concern.

Maybe you have heard this since posting your project but thought I'd throw it out there in case you have not. You mentioned in your posting the odd sizing of boards and figured it had some history to it. I remember learning about this in wood shop in high school. When the lumber mill starts with a board say a 2x4 in is "roughly 2" x 4" but when they run it through the saw the kerf (thickness) of the blades are 1/4 inch so each side is cut buy 1/4 inch. A 2x4 measures 1.5" x 3.5" for that reason and it isn't likely to change.

Hi; glad you enjoyed the article and will be able to put some of it to good use. That's the whole point of this thing, after all :)

Re silicone - my deck has no aggregate, so I don't have much experience with silicone on it. That being said, though, I doubt it would be a problem. The silicone should adhere to the stones without a problem (especially rough, porous one like cement and stone).

As for the measurement explanation - guess it makes sense. Thx for sharing that tidbit!

I can unambiguously (and happily) say that there have been zero issues after two years. Some of the boards on the more highly trafficked areas are losing the stain a bit more than others, but structurally everything is peachy. I can't really see underneath the boards very well because the gaps are small, but from what I see the silicone is still there and holding on well.

I have a concrete patio, and other places I'm reading say that wood in contact with concrete is a recipe for rot. Without airflow below the wood - 10 inches, preferably a foot - the lifespan is degraded, so they say.

There's about 4" of good airflow underneath the floor, and only the runners are sitting right on top of the concrete. There's zero clearance between the runners and the concrete, and the points where they come in contact with it are all sealed with silicone, so that should provide good protection.

I suppose the only way to know for sure would be to check in a few years. I'll check it again in the summer of 2017 (for a five year span) and get back to you :)

As for reducing maintenance - I would just go with the two main recommendations in the article: put silicone everywhere there is a chance water can get in (e.g. between the concrete and the runners), and use plenty of wood sealer on all the cut ends.

Would be glad to help, but kind of hard to do without knowing what your troubles are. Are you having issues putting them on? Do they not close properly? If you add some images it would be easier to lend a hand.

I've got a large flat slab outside my house, but it has cracks and doesn't drain water away very efficiently, so I'm currently considering my options - one is to cover in decking, the other is to lay a concrete patio over it.

I was interested to see how you deal with the wood sitting on concrete - and I see what you've done - just laid it on top - as the concrete is porous, surely the water will seep under the silcone and work its way into the wood? I've been recommended when I put a shed on concrete pavers to put off cuts of pond liner or similar to stop the water soaking up into the wood.

Similarly depending on the variation in temps, won't the sealant eventually split off?

Several considerations here. First off - yeah, concrete is a bit porous, but the kind used for exeterior construction is usually a bit better at repelling water since it's exposed to it all the time. No telling if any additives were added to the mixture when it was made, but I have to trust that it was done properly.

That being said, it's always possible that some water will get through to the wood, but sealing the edges between the wood and the concrete should minimize that.

And as for climate changes affecting the sealant - also, a possiblity, which is why I used high grade exterior use sealant. Should buy me a few more years. We've got a lot of heat, water, snow and ice over here, so it will definitely be subjected to the elements.

Finally, you have the fact that the wood is treated lumber, and has been attached at several points to the concrete. Even if some part of it starts weakening, I have faith that the wood (as a whole) will stay solid and well attached for years to come.

Nice looking deck, and an improvement, but....ACQ is protected against insects and fungi, not moisture, proper drainage does that. Just do a search for ACQ and read the facts.Standard building code calls for 16" centers not 18"Proper drainage starts with the side of the house, proper flashing to redirect the water away from it and the deck. Proper flashing and rubber seals make a deck outlast the home."skirting" should be applied to cover the ends of the decking for esthetic reasons and with proper drainage with flashing to protect the wood joists. A spot of glue on each runner where the decking touches extends life of the wood and 'firms' up the deck tremendously. also eliminates screws from backing out from vibration.I use the 20yr siding stain on the decks I build, since most 'deck stains' say right on the can, to reapply yearly, clearly a rip off.Always check with local authorities on building codes and accepted practices to avoid fines and rebuilding.Again nice deck, and enjoy a bbq and beer on a warm evening for me.

Since your concrete was in good shape, I would have just covered the concrete with slate or some other stone instead of wood. With a concrete deck, you had something that was basically maintenance free -- basically you just pressure wash it when it gets too green for your tastes. With wood, you're going to be pressure washing, resealing, replacing rotten boards, fixing loose boards, etc from now on. I've owned houses with wooden and concrete decks / patios before and in my opinion, the concrete is a better choice.

A wood deck will defintiely take more work in maintenance that concrete, and I think I mentioned that somewhere in the article. It all comes down to what your tastes are, and in my opinion nothing beats the warmth and aesthetic value that wood has. It's well worth the maintenance costs.

AHH . . . Norm Abrams. I was already getting all sentimental thinking about my dad today (he's been deceased 12 1/2 years) and then I see this AND the Norm comment. My dad LOVED Norm Abrams, the New Yankee Workshop, This Old House, etc. He always joked that "Normby" was on . . . "Time to watch Norm-by!" I actually got to meet him in 2001. The man has a router for every bit he owns so he never has to change a bit. THAT is woodworking luxury!

That being said, my dad (an accomplished woodworker) would be impressed by your work. Wanna swing over to Wisconsin and build one for me? ;) Great stuff.

Wow, I didn't know he had a router for every bit! Mind you, the size of his workshop and the stuff he used to turn out :P Not really surprising! Also the safety glasses. very important that. "There is no more important safety rule than to wear these safety glasses" Wise words indeed.

I heard an interview with Norm,, I also remember the very first "This Old House" show, Norm actually was just a hired carpenter for the job along with several others. The Construction lead never showed up and the camera's were rolling. Bob Villa saw Norm walking by with a ladder and stopped him and started asking him questions about the job..

That's got to be one of the most flattering comments I've received to date. But in spite of that, I've got to turn Wisconsin down. Trust me - the paperwork my wife would have you do in order to borrow me for this project just wouldn't be worth it!