Kitchen Call: Dream a lentil dream

Thursday

Mar 26, 2009 at 12:01 AMMar 26, 2009 at 7:03 AM

Traditionally at this time of year, in the doldrums when spring has not yet taken over for winter, lentils are traditional at the table. Often in soups, lentils make a sprightly main course salad or side dish for lunch or dinner.

Linda Bassett

Traditionally at this time of year, in the doldrums when spring has not yet taken over for winter, lentils are traditional at the table. Often in soups, lentils make a sprightly main course salad or side dish for lunch or dinner. The tiny beans themselves — brown, green or red — provide the protein component for a meatless main or side dish or a hearty soup.

As lentils have origins around the Mediterranean, they partner perfectly with rice, strong cheese like feta, olives, garlic and tomatoes. They have an affinity for strongly flavored herbs as well, such as basil, Italian parsley, dill, thyme and rosemary. Equally, they take to sturdy, flavorful meats like pork, especially sausage and bacon, or lamb, in soups and stews.

Some cooks like to keep the meal entirely meatless and so seek hearty flavors to substitute for the meat products. In this case, vegetables such as tomatoes and mushrooms, especially dried mushrooms, provide the flavor boost.

A real bonus is that lentils cook up quickly, unlike other dried beans. In about 20 minutes of simmering, you can make dinner in a hurry. I always check the pot after they have cooked for 15 minutes, as some lentils cook faster than others and you don’t want a pot of mush.

The dried beans keep well on the pantry shelf so they can always be available to match up with a few vegetables and seasonings, providing a nutritious dinner that makes it to the table nearly as quickly as the drive-up window.

MEDITERRANEAN LENTIL SALAD
Makes 4 servings

Served on lettuce leaves or tossed torn fresh spinach leaves, this is the perfect salad for lunch. Cook up some extra lentils ahead for another day.

This recipe, which includes Italian bacon, pancetta, can be made meatless. To do this, I increase the level of seasonings and soak 1/2 to 1 ounce of dried porcini mushrooms for 20 minutes. Then I chop the mushrooms and add them plus the soaking juices, drained through a fine-mesh sieve, to the lentil soup.

1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add pancetta, onion, carrot and celery. Sauté until vegetables begin to soften and turn golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, rosemary, lentils, and tomatoes. Cook, uncovered, for 3 to 4 minutes.

2. Add boiling water. Cover; cook until lentils are tender, about 20 to 40 minutes, testing for doneness over the course of cooking starting at about 15 minutes.

3. Add stock, increase heat to high; bring to a boil. Stir in the rice. Reduce heat to a slow, steady simmer. Cover; cook until rice is tender but still firm to the bite, about 15 minutes. Add salt and ground black pepper, to taste. Ladle into warmed bowls; sprinkle generously with grated cheese.

Linda Bassett, author of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” teaches American regional cooking and international cuisine at North Shore Community College in Massachusetts. Reach her by e-mail at KitchenCall@aol.com.