Huascarán Sur: The Shield

It looks steeper than it is, but I heard that the ice was rock hard. Normally, the easiest route up here is on the left, but it looks almost impossible to get access there. On the right there is some dangerous looking stuff hanging over the route, so that leaves only the middle.

However, we had no plans for this route. We were planning to climb the normal routes to Huascarán Norte and Sur and would be quite happy if that would work out.

From what I know about it, regular helicopters can't even operate that high, and at the time there certainly wasn't one in the area that could. If you would get in trouble, you would be completely dependent on yourself and your climbing partners. Occasionally, when news about a climber missing or in trouble would trickle down to the valley, a search and rescue effort might be staged, but usually too little, too late. I don't blame anybody at all for that, it's very expensive to have a professional rescue service in place like we have in the European Alps.

Yea, looks almost as if you are level with the wall!
After I summited Mt Denali we saw 3 rescues from our camp. The helicopter picked people up all the way from the football field! Which is just about 6000m. They do have a special helicopter there though. I think it is good to never rely on anyone else but yourself as a climber. :)

The lowest point of the shield is on the far right. From there it is a long, steep and hard line, and personally I don't like that stuff hanging above it. I estimate the base of the ice at the right at just over 5700m, or some 400m above Campo Uno.

The left hand side starts just over 5900m or some 600m above Campo Uni. The route on the left is not quite as steep, but still difficult. From the photos it's hard to tell, but the left is further away. The Shield faces west, while this view is from the southwest.