I need to replace this switch that is clipped to the evap coils and controls the defrost element, what would I ask for and what range? It does not have any numbers on this device and Sears only sells it with a new element.

Yep, I'm aware its sold as a kit, but i was told if I took it took a parts house they could match one up for me (genaric part). I just dont see any numbers on this device as to what range I need?

Does anyone know why a t-stat would be needed in a situation like this, the timer goes into defrost every 8 hours or so, so why would you put a temp based cut out in a circuit like this? Seems like a silly waste of a part, if it was not cold and it goes into defrost, what would if hurt? At that point you have a major problem anyway (if the core is warm I mean)

The purpose of the thermostat is to terminate the defrost cycle once the coils reach a predetermined temperature, usually the temperatures are printed on the thermostat, not sure why this one is not available seperately as most are. There may be an underlying reason for this (other than $$$$) - I would go with the Mfr suggested replacement

Thank you K-Dog.....I will pick one up at Sears in the morning. After your explanation, I can see why they feel there is a need for a temp sensor.....but I would say they could just build an average cut out (meaning average time it takes for the temp to drop into a specified range, once the compressor and fan cut out) into the timer fuction.....that would eliminate another part in the circuit that could fail. I just like to make things simple.

Thank you Reg- I had no idea that was such a critical factor in keeping things cool and the evaporator defrosted. After I have defrosted everything and cleaned the drain, it is cooling like crazy tonight. I replaced the timer a few month ago, and it lasted a while till this week end. I have have had the fridge 8 years with no issues until the timer went, and now it froze up again.......it was frost on the cover (back wall) and mostly clear ice block surrounding the defroster, do you think the plugged drain cause my issues or that t-stat, working intermittently?

P.S. My owners manual says that my condensor is factory sealed, and does not require cleaning? I tried to remove the kick plate and acess it to no avail......have you ever heard that on these Jenn air- Maytag units?

Squeaky Clean wrote: ... it was frost on the cover (back wall) and mostly clear ice block surrounding the defroster, do you think the plugged drain cause my issues or that t-stat, working intermittently? ...

A clean condenser means more efficient refrigerator operation.
Thanks to the unique design of the No Clean™ condenser,
there is no longer a need for routine condenser cleaning in normal home usage surroundings.

Some operating environments may be particularly dusty or greasy.
In these situations, the condenser can be periodically cleaned to insure maximum efficiency.

How do you get to the to that condenser? It has a fixed toe kick panel, and I can not see it from the back?

Should the defrost element kick on every time I hear the compressor and evap fan shut off or only on a eight hour cycle with the timer? It has shut off twice since I cleaned it up at 6pm (now its 10PM) and during that time I have never seen the coil light up?

I guess I thought the condenser was located on the bottom of the fridge horizontally, and would look like an AC condenser on a car or home system. I have totally cleaned & vacuumed that area behind that cover every 6 months.

After I have defrosted everything and cleaned the drain, it is cooling like crazy tonight.

*********************

If the EVAPORATOR COILS in the freezer compartment becomes blocked with heavy frost & ice (not defrosting), this prevents *airflow* from the freezer-to-the-refrigerator-back-to-the-freezer. Manually defrosting this snow/ice build-up will allow normal refrigeration for up to 2 weeks (depending upon heat & humidity) until it reoccurrs again because the automatic defrost has malfunctioned.

The evaporator FAN MOTOR pushes cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator fresh food compartment near the top shelf (coldest area of the refrigerator). This colder air filters down through the shelves to the crisper bins at the bottom (warmest area of the refrigerator).

Next, the air is pushed back into the freezer compartment at the bottom vent (warmest area of the freezer) and then filters through the evaporator coils where heat is removed from the air flowing thru it (cold always absorbs heat).

This cold air repeats the trip over to the refrigerator side by entering a vent near the top of the freezer--which is the coldest section of the freezer and is where the ICEMAKER ASSY is located. This top section is also the most ideal location for storing ice cream as the temperature required to keep it solid must be below 32F.

Thank you both for your helpful information, it is very much appreciated!

Reg- Have a cream puff for me! I sure miss all those great Wisconsin treats! We just got our first Culver's Frozen Custard down here in TN, it opened this week end......people from the midwest were lined up around the block, and the locals just scratched their heads wondering whats the big deal about another "icecream shop".......well learn em!