Food fight? Not if you plan your Thanksgiving the right way

CHIARA ASSI

9:07 PM, Nov 17, 2009

Thanksgiving turkey preparation. Jeremy Lyverse/Staff

My relationship with Thanksgiving didn't start off with the right foot. One day in early November of 2006 I announced that I would host the turkey dinner, invited my parents and friends over and flipped through the holiday issues of Bon Appetit and Cooking Light magazines.

But the night before Thanksgiving I had to work — I was covering an event at a downtown bar — and after I was done working I thought it'd be a good idea to meet up with friends for a (few) celebratory drinks. The next morning I woke up at 9, my alarm going off on the night stand and a throbbing headache threatening to split my head in half. As I slowly made my way to the kitchen and put a kettle on, I was only vaguely aware of the fact that cooking Thanksgiving dinner isn't for sissies. I would soon find out I was about to tackle one of the hardest days of my cooking life.

I didn't know it then, but I had already made two big mistakes:

* First of all, I had planned on making way too much food.

* Even worse, I had declined my mother's offer to help because I wanted to do it all by myself.

Eight hours later I had pie crust in my hair and cranberry sauce had somehow made its way to my kitchen's ceiling, but my food was on the table, looking, smelling and tasting delicious. Needless to say, I was so worn out from cooking I barely had the energy to enjoy it.

That year I might have almost lost the battle, but I had no intention of losing the war. Keeping my mistakes in mind, I made sure that my next Thanksgiving days wouldn't turn into a tour de force of baking, chopping, boiling and cleaning. Both in 2007 and 2008 I did it in a different way, later described by my mother as "the smart way."

If you have never hosted Thanksgiving before, don't be afraid. It's a lot of work, but it's one of the most rewarding experiences to be had in the kitchen. Just keep a few things in mind and you won't end up with overcooked turkey, gravy on your shirt and on the verge of a mental breakdown.

Plan carefully

Write down all the different dishes you want to make: appetizers, soup, main course, side dishes, desserts, breads and cocktails, then cross out half of them. Trust me. Two hours into the cooking and you'll be running out of pots and pans. You'll wish you hadn't decided to make that extra vegan stuffing for your picky neighbor and you won't have to panic about whether everything is going to be ready in time or not. Planning also means realizing that you cannot expect to prepare three side dishes that need to be baked at the same time as the turkey is.

Let others help

If someone offers to make bread or bring a side dish, accept with enthusiasm and cross off more of your menu items. Last year I let my mom bring homemade bread, sweet potato casserole and a pie — all things that need to be baked. Thanks to her help I could give my undivided attention, and all my oven space, to the big bird, which made my life much easier. Also, we all have an aunt who swears her mashed potatoes are simply the best or a sister who insists she won't eat any other cranberry sauce than hers.

So go on, give in. You'll have less work to do and you'll keep everyone happy.

Do ahead

Certain things can be made one or two days before Thanksgiving and then reheated five minutes before you sit down to dinner. Last year I made my two cranberry sauces, classic and spicy, on Tuesday, while on Wednesday I whipped up the salmon mousse I served as an appetizer and the stuffing. On Thursday all I had to do was prepare the turkey and make mashed potatoes and gravy.

Do ahead as much as possible — pie is another perfect candidate for doing ahead — and you'll have time to relax, shower and, if the weather is nice, go to the pool while the bird is roasting.

Know your turkey

Since the bird will be the center of attention, you definitely don't want to mess it up. A common mistake first timers make is to leave the bag containing the gizzards inside the turkey, which can lead to a disaster of melted plastic mingled with stuffing and poultry. So remember to remove the bag. Some turkeys have two bags: one for the neck, nestled inside a fold of skin in that area and one for the gizzards inside the bird cavity. It's worth double-checking.

Also, remember that turkey meat tends to dry easily. Do not overcook it. Keep in mind that the bird keeps cooking while you let it rest for a half hour before carving.

Keep the kitchen clean

It sounds hard, but keeping the kitchen halfway clean while you cook isn't impossible, and makes it easier to tidy up before your guests arrive. If you spill or drop something, wipe it immediately. If you wait you'll have to scrub twice as hard. Keep the dishwasher running. This isn't the time to be thrifty about water and electricity. Don't worry about the floor until the last minute: your kitchen tiles — especially if they are white like mine — will get dirty again if you mop them too far in advance of your company's arrival.

And last but not least: relax and have fun. Remember that people are coming over to have dinner at your home, not a Wolfgang Puck five-star dinner in a Martha Stewart-approved house.

Eating, drinking and giving thanks is what this day is all about. Nobody will notice the dust over the shelves except your mother, but for once she won't say anything.