One grape, but vastly different wine styles

This week I want to talk about the difference and the different bargain values of Pinot Grigio, or as they might say Pinot Gris. Many of you will know of the Pinot Grigio that is from Italy or California that is sometimes considered conspicuously tart. The common variety usually comes from an early harvest and is dry to semi-sweet with a lean characteristic that requires a very sensitive palate to fully respect the differences.

The mass production of Pinot Grigio in Italy has very few standouts. Typically, you'll find light and refreshing wines at good prices.

In the US, I recommend searching for the Oregon Pinot Gris. That part of the country has a bit more experience with the grape and the growing areas seem to be well-suited for the grape.

One area that will have a different approach with the Pinot Gris grape is the Alsace region of France. Tasting Pinot Gris from Alsace up against the Italian Pinot Grigio is something every wine-lover can do and it won't cost a lot for the comparison.

The Alsatian wine was once called Tokay d'Alsace. But the EU put rules against that name of wine because of the legendary Hungarian Tokaji, the wine known as "the wine of kings and the king of wines".

Pinot Gris has been grown in the Alsace region since the 1600s, and is the third most-planted variety after Riesling and GewŸrztraminer. The Alsatians value Pinot Gris as a full-bodied wine that can stand up to food without introducing competing flavors of its own.

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It has a striking contrast to the light and tartish wines from Italy and America. The Alsatian Pinot Gris will be much grander in bouquet, mouth-feel and balance. The aromas alone will be enough of a difference.

The French like to make Pinot Gris in a carefully controlled process to accentuate the difference of the variety in other countries. They allow the grapes to ripen just a bit longer, that brings up the fruit flavor that the early harvest doesn't have. The next step is a slow and gentle pressing that works to limit the effect of the fruit's skin. Then they perform a slow, cooler temperature-controlled fermentation (a method that Dom Perignon used in making his white wine with the Pinot Noir grape-except Perignon got a secondary fermentation that popped his corks). The Alsatian Pinot Gris makers make a point to refrain from manipulating the process, and they put full purpose to get the fully-ripened grape juice is slowly and carefully fermented into a different version from what you are used to in Pinot Grigio.

Instead of the whisper-like qualities of Italian and West Coast Pinot Grigio, the Alsatian Pinot Gris is wine that accentuates the body and richness of this grape variety. There's vibrancy in the flavor without the tartness that a big Chardonnay has and there's a more rounded fruit balance than a fine Sauvignon Blanc, or FumŽ Blanc.

The Pinot Gris wines from Alsace might sell for a few dollars more that the typical Italian Pinot Grigio. But, if you are willing to put a Willm Reserve, a Trimbach or a Pierre Sparr in a side-by-side taste with say, a Clos du Bois, then you'll taste the difference in production style. Then if you added the Italian style in the taste test, your wine would go even lighter in character.

The Pinot Gris grape growing in Alsace is roughly 21% of the total grape production today, so it is still a very popular and viable wine fruit. The individual wine variety from Alsace is about 15% trailing the Riesling and GewŸrztraminer wines as well.

Prices for Alsatian Pinot Gris, for the major reputable brands, will run between $11 and $18 a bottle. The most expensive wine I found sold for $31, an Alsatian Pinot Gris wine that is being considered for Grand Cru designation. At that quality, it is still a bargain in my opinion.

These white wines will age well. Unlike the Pinot Grigio of Italy, the French versions will keep and improve with time.

If you are thinking about collecting and trading an Alsatian Pinot Gris, be sure you get one with a high rating from one of the rating publications like Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast. Anything under a 91 rating won't increase in value unless you can keep a wine for over 20 years.

So, if you want a different full-flavored wine without the oaky tang of Chardonnay, try a Pinot Gris from Alsace. Remember not to chill the white wines too much and you'll get more of what the winemaker wanted you to taste.