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Description

This route is on the left side of the front of the Menses Prow, just around the corner to the right of "Period Piece". It is listed in William Prehm's photo topo as "Napoleonic Code (5.12b)". The original documented name is "Scratch and Claw", and the original grade was 5.12c. Start on the left edge of a cave, scratch up right onto the face, then claw across the roofs on the left to the anchors.

this route is pretty good, but a couple of tips might make your ascent more fun. The topo on the web site shows the line veering over right to easier ground at a bulge just before the big roof. This would have to decrease the quality of the line, and make it quite a bit easier -- if you care about that. I went straight up to the roof on some crimps, this was the "redpoint crux" for me. Also, I guess this route has been given an S or R rating. It must be for the scarey flake at the top. I think its fine, but youre definitely haning it out there when you yard up this bongo flake. I'm a fairly big guy, as sport climbers go, and at 175-180 lbs I didn't pull anything off. Also, I would recommend clipping a draw on the anchors and then moving slightly left and up to the next route left's anchors. This routes anchors have a mass of crappy slings. The bolts are fine though.
Jan 10, 2005