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Topic: How to make a CA18ET close to 200BHP Have i missed anything? (Read 9076 times)

I have done some searching on the forum and have found out as much information as i could find.

Correct me if im wrong, My Gf has the CA18et EU spec engine so when it was new it had around 135BHP.

the injector size is 270cc which should be safe at 1bar/14psi? I have a spare stock s15 fuel pump and im wondering if i could fit that to the s12? Would stock s13 370cc injectors fit the fuel rail?

The T2's operate safe at 1bar?

AFM's what is the s12 rated to? Im looking for an induction kit and there is not much about in the uk. I have a spare s14 afm i wonder if i can fit that?

the car has a full exhaust system on it (no cat) but stock manifold and i think stock down pipe. Mechanical boost controller. still no intercooler but ive found some FMIC kits on US ebay that i plan on purchasing soon as we all know bringing the charge temperature down will unleash a fair amount of horses.

Time to retire the T2, it was barely adequate for OEM install. I followed online advice and installed a T25 with little change in mount. Only needed a new downpipe. I added an fmic and with OEM injectors I can produce 14 psi easily without running out of fuel. Problem I have is too much fuel under boost, AFM goes to 10 when normally it bounces between 14-15. Before boosting way more, get a stud kit for the head or you will blow the gasket. If you really intend to do this, go ahead and get a Cometic metal gasket. I haven't dynoed mine yet, still have a few issues to work out. But it is a daily driver and has been lots of fun now to drive.

T25 is good (you can find them on CA18DET) but a T25G is better and will allow you more growth potential (can be found on SR20DET).

You can use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to try to tune down some of that fuel problem, Cajun.

Stock headgasket can take it for awhile, if it's FRESH, and chances are, yours is not. If you're going to go to the trouble of changing out the old one, then you should take his advice and go with a cometic gasket. While you are at it, ditch out the CA18ET head bolt setup for ARP head studs and nuts. ARP will need an example head BOLT (factory part) to make your set of studs but that's easy.

With the block studded with ARP, and a cometic head gasket, you should hold things pretty tightly then, and could realistically tune for a little more than 200bhp.

Logged

-Jason Arro

'85 Nissan 200SX (KA24DE)formerly, '85 Nissan Silvia RS-X - FJ20 w/ dual Weber carbs'84 Nissan 200SX Turbo'85 Nissan 200SX TurboDrive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it - self quote

Quote from: ka-t.org

Hella flush and all associates should be gunned down for brainwashing people into thinking a 225 and lots of camber is proper wheel fitment. THAT IS EASY, anyone can camber a skinny as tire till it dosnt rub. Now fitting an 11 with a 315 on stock fender with reasonable camber, that is fitment. And looks, and performs better than both.

I did go for an after market adjustable fpr, but I get the same result the OEM gave me: under boost, it goes way rich. I have been dropping the pressure down and it gets tolerable, it used to blow a cloud out when I nailed it. Now it's not so bad. I suppose I could fine tune with an Apexi or whatever, but I just need a break from throwing $$ at this for a bit. It runs beautifully with all the upgrades. BTW, ARP was able to make me a kit using a faxed sheet they send so you can fill out all the bolt dimensions. It's just that one long bolt the CA18ET has that seems to throw it all off. Also, if you're gonna do like me and hang the T25 turbo off the OEM exhaust mani, do install some helicoils into the rear mount positions so the additional weight doesn't pull out the threads in the aluminum head. I went with one step up in diameter on the studs in the back. Best of luck on the upgrades, I am very happy with my results.

'85 Nissan 200SX (KA24DE)formerly, '85 Nissan Silvia RS-X - FJ20 w/ dual Weber carbs'84 Nissan 200SX Turbo'85 Nissan 200SX TurboDrive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it - self quote

Quote from: ka-t.org

Hella flush and all associates should be gunned down for brainwashing people into thinking a 225 and lots of camber is proper wheel fitment. THAT IS EASY, anyone can camber a skinny as tire till it dosnt rub. Now fitting an 11 with a 315 on stock fender with reasonable camber, that is fitment. And looks, and performs better than both.

It can take enough... just needs a little prep work. Some of the Brits have squeezed 300+ out of them.

Logged

-Jason Arro

'85 Nissan 200SX (KA24DE)formerly, '85 Nissan Silvia RS-X - FJ20 w/ dual Weber carbs'84 Nissan 200SX Turbo'85 Nissan 200SX TurboDrive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it - self quote

Quote from: ka-t.org

Hella flush and all associates should be gunned down for brainwashing people into thinking a 225 and lots of camber is proper wheel fitment. THAT IS EASY, anyone can camber a skinny as tire till it dosnt rub. Now fitting an 11 with a 315 on stock fender with reasonable camber, that is fitment. And looks, and performs better than both.

Here is the result of my re-manufactured ca18et which only had 12,000 miles when it popped.

Number 2 rod is toast as you can see. The rods in these motors are very weak. A few weeks before, it dynoed just under 160 whp @15psi on a t25g.....and that was with a Walbro 255, 3" turbo back exhaust, front mount IC, etc.Honestly, I wouldn't waste the money on trying to mod a ca18et.....I learned my lesson. Spend the money on a motor swap. If you do decide to proceed with the ca18et, be sure to tune it along the way, otherwise you'll be in the same boat as I was sooner or later.

The standard ca18et rods are not made to handle anything over 12psi on the t20 or lack of tuning.The best solution as mentioned in the past is to use ca18det rods and arp rod bolts.

Arp head studs and good tuning will solve all the other issues as the pro-swirl 8v head is superiorfor economy and torque over the 16v all the way to 5000rpm which is where most of the time isspent on the street or driving in general.

If you want more? then bigger exhaust valve with 5 angle finish for in/ex valves, careful porting of short turn radius, clean up the casting imperfections & good port matching is all thats required. The twin spark head has recorded 46mpg in NA setups due to its pro swirl highlow end torque design so with boost you have a win/win situation.

Going over 200 atw t28bb, better ex. manifold, bigger injectors and extrude honed ca20e manifold along with better tuning, top quality spark plugs and ignition fix so they fire all the way to redline which should be done anyway.