#82 Dayali

The best Peking duck in Toronto is (of course) in Markham. Dayali, the first Canadian outpost of a Beijing chain, doesn’t take reservations (except for groups). The 30 minute lineup starts weekdays at 6 p.m. and weekends at 6:30. Why? Perchance ’cause they expand the trad crisp course into two courses: Accompanied by a steamer for pancakes with scallions, cuke, hoisin, sugar and five-spice chili salt, first comes crazy-crisp duck skin, to be dipped in sugar or salt. Then duck skin (also crisp) with meat, for the pancake treatment. And finally duck bone soup with tofu and bok choy: Very simple, very pure, very fab. Add country-style veg — cloud ear fungus, carrot and Chinese green shreds — and that’s a great dinner for four. P.S. No credit cards, only debit.