Need some feedback on what kind of frame you would like to see me manufacture.

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I drew these up today, thought I would post them up just for fun. The trigger is just a spacer filler for my current drawings.

I have the basic frame geometry done, I believe I am settling in on an 86* frame. I drew several 90* frames that were so-so, but I really like the final 86* drawing. We'll see how it pans out as I progress in the project.

I drew these up today, thought I would post them up just for fun. The trigger is just a spacer filler for my current drawings.

I have the basic frame geometry done, I believe I am settling in on an 86* frame. I drew several 90* frames that were so-so, but I really like the final 86* drawing. We'll see how it pans out as I progress in the project.

i know that for me if i have a custom trigger on a mag, most of the marker is aftermarket parts, i only have one twist lock body that i use with an intelliframe and that is on my warp fed mag, all other twist locks i own are loaners and have a stock style frame on it...so id say im like 85-90% looks and 10-15% twist lock capable(100% function though)...

I see why you ask... That's a good question, actually. I'd say being able to use it with a twist lock. But I'm like 52% / 48% on that LOL

Theres is always Docs Cocker conversion part. EDIT: Rethinking this, does it use the twist-lock pin to hole it in place? I've never seen one.
or
A butt ugly frame.
or
None removable trigger guard frame. (Which eliminates a super cool trigger design I have in mind for Pneumag or EPmag setups)

Another thing I can add without affecting the foregrip mount or pump attachments (On the AM/MM frame) is enlarging the space inside the trigger guard. However you would have to shorten the sear clevis pin if you want to run a mechanical setup.

It would be as simple as grinding off the tip a specified amount and readjusting to fine tune back to factory spec.

In that case, go for the looks and forget about the twist lock assembly. I'm really curious to see what you come up with in the end. Besides, as I put more thought to it, having a single trigger e-pneu setup will take me to an ULE body anyways.

Small update, I have enlarged the guard for more finger space without sacrificing foregrip and pump add-ons for the AM/MM rails. As of now it looks like it will be an easy adjustment of the clevis pin if you are running a mechanical frame.

I believe I will go to a top bearing trigger design for the Pneu and EP triggers specifically designed for this frame (Wont work in the Intelli frame) I just need to find a place to get them. Also the trigger will have a magnetic return like the Emag, including stops in both directions.

I believe the 45 grip usage on this frame will need to be dropped just so we can have a nice platform for DYI guys to build the frame. 45 grips have mount holes that are less than optimum for this. I'll just do some cool grips in aluminum that will be unique to this frame fitting similar to the CCM frame. With them inlayed a little I can get away with a single screw mount per side putting the screw where ever I see fit.

Does anyone have a 90* fitting from palmers that you can measure and give me the specs on? It will save me some time of having to order them so I can keep moving forward with the cads.

I am a flinger and I HATE magnetic return triggers. A spring and a tension release magnet in the top where the return stop screw goes is the best for a snappy feel. Trust me a snappy trigger is the way to go, not a mushy mess. The mini and Emag have the worst triggers EVER!

I have put extensive thought into this and it will be necessary for fast Pneu-mag operation to minimize short-stroking. You need to build up enough pressure on the trigger so that when it releases there is enough force to trip a 3-way. Properly set up tension release triggers can allow pneu-mags to rip as fast as EP setups without the short-stroking. Again it needs to be snappy, not mushy.

See the screws on the top of the trigger? The front screw is the one that get closer or further away from the magnet in the frame adjusting the release tension, the screw in the rear sets the forward play.

Theres is always Docs Cocker conversion part. EDIT: Rethinking this, does it use the twist-lock pin to hole it in place? I've never seen one.
or
A butt ugly frame.
or
None removable trigger guard frame. (Which eliminates a super cool trigger design I have in mind for Pneumag or EPmag setups)

Since I didn't see the answer above; yes, Doc's adapter uses the twistlock. It has three holes (not slots) for the twistlock pin that hold the adapter to right, left, or center feed body alignment. That means you have to lift the body off the rail to get the adapter out.

The adapter is really useful when you need to put on a sized barrel, but I've never built a mag with the intent of using one. You also need to consider the "upgrade" people vs the "builder" people. The upgraders take advantage of the modularity of mags and upgrade one thing at a time. You will have to make it clear that your frame won't work on a twistlock body, or suffer the returns.

***

You could make a leaf spring type twistlock that sits in a slot in the top of the frame. If they don't want the "twistlock assembly", then you call the slot "ULE milling".

I'm still plugin away, had to order some parts yesterday to measure so it will probably be a week till I get them. If I were just doing a single design with a single purpose I would probably have the prototype machined already but thereís quite a bit going on here so it's going to take me some time to figure it all out.