Comments: P1 is 5.5. P2 is 5.4. The Horn Pipes variation is 5.7 and the best pitch. Nice exposure. Would use long slings on the first 2-3 bolts as well. Why no animal name for this pitch? There is also an old piton on P1.

Comments: 10c. The new guidebook gives this a 10a, but 2/3 of us felt that this was the hardest of the 5 climbs here. Tricky stem with thin finger holds in the crack. You have to get your left foot up pretty high.

Comments: 10c/d. The new guidebook rates this, and the climb to the left, as 10a and the easiest of the 4 bolted routes. I thought this climb was the hardest, at least the pumpiest of the 5 routes currently here.

Comments: The vision and the lead on this was all Leo. Thanks for the birthday greetings. On the descent, one can unrope for all of it until just below the rap anchors. Then it is 10 feet of 5.1 slab, but with some exposure.

Comments: It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table.

Comments: Did this again yesterday for the first time in 11 years. Maybe I am getting older, but first pitch seemed more like 5.7 and P2 more like 5.9. Belay spot is at a good stance at a crack that angles up and right. The route continues left however. Once on the summit ridge, there are obvious belay slings to the right. However, if one goes left about 15 feet (4th class, exposed), the anchors for Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit are seen, which is a cool toprope. Would agree with Leo, 2 stars, as t... more >>

Comments: Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy. Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.

Comments: From the cave, it is pretty obvious to head straight up the gully to a stance 20 feet below the notch for a belay. Then head up and right onto the SE face of the middle tower for a short but fun 5.5 pitch to the summit. Also one can get good pro below the bolt, which I did not see until it was 1 foot from my nose!

Comments: The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!

Comments: We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it. We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder. There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR th... more >>

Comments: Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.

That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as i... more >>

Comments: Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.