Comments: This route is fun for sure. Some will disagree, but I don't think I would recommend this for someone just breaking to the 5.8 grade. The first section of the route does not protect great. Most of the cracks are too shallow/flared to get a good downward facing cam into.

It is also extremely important to consider rope drag. I ran into some problems when the rope was feeding through a crack below me. This made the final 30' quite difficult. It's an awesome climb, but one that you should definitel... more >>

Comments: The torso-sized block is still there and still ready to go. It's especially dangerous because the rope runs right on top of it when you clip the bolts before and after. I ended up bailing on the route at the thought of not wanting to kill my belayer. I would have been more than happy to try to clean it, but there were several parties climbing on the area directly underneath the route and it was far too risky. As it stands, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying anyone up or climbing this route mys... more >>

Comments: By Michael Walker From: Loveland, CO Oct 20, 2002 If we could assess the needs of bolts on each route specifically, start with this one. It's a very fun route. Problem is, as the name would imply, it's a crack. And it's bolted. And the excuse for this is?

Comments: It can be kinda hard to find the start of this route because there are a lot of really fun looking lines along the pipe. Look on the left for a long chain bolted from the rock at eye level and slightly left and then another large bolt directly on the route.

Did this yestarday and it was definitely a lot of fun although I'll admit the crux was somewhat intimidating.

** Protection Beta *** For Beginner Leaders: When the top of the crack gets very run out, look for a second vertical crack an arms reach to the right that will take a #4 Metolius or similar sized cam. This protects the route well.

Comments: Cody, I really thought I was clear, but you seem to be misunderstanding. We climbed New Era. The entire route. On route. When we got to the top, the objective was to rap down to where we started. On the face of the wall facing the same direction as the New Era route (away from Montezuma's kinda), there are two rappel anchors. If you rappel off of these, you arrive down and two the left slightly at the slung three piton anchor. From this anchor, you have to try to make it back to the first belay... more >>

It is very straightforward to get to the two (or three pitons) connected by webbing, no arguments. Without two ropes though, which direction are you supposed to go? I'm not sure where the other routes you are speaking of are as I'm not that familiar with the area. If you head to the right (while looking at the cliff), you have to make that very tough traverse I mentioned. That traverse aligns you back on the New Era route at the location of the first pitch. Are there rappel rings somewher... more >>

Comments: Did New Era for the first time today. One of my favorite climbs ever with tons of exposure. Speaking for the rappel, we rapped off the first bolts directly under and left of the summit. This rap went nearly straight down and was fairly straightfoward. Here you have to sling through two pins and probaly leave some webbing. We rappelled down and had to go very far right (looking at the wall) to get to the anchors at the first pitch of New Era. If you plan to do the rappel in this way, make sure yo... more >>