Friday, January 30, 2015

Washington, DC, January 28, 2015 – Today, Congressmen Earl Blumenauer (OR-03) and Chris Collins (NY-27) introduced the bipartisan Cider Industry Deserves Equal Regulation (CIDER) Act. The Act, HR 600, would amend the section of the tax code that deals with wine and related beverages, 26 USC § 5041, to support the growing number of craft and entrepreneurial cider makers, and tailor IRS rules to reflect variations in craft ciders across the country.

During the fermentation process, a variety of factors can lead to small changes in the composition of a cider’s alcohol content and carbonation. Because of the narrow way that hard cider is currently defined in the tax code, these small variations can lead to cider being taxed at a rate fifteen times higher than what the statute clearly intended. The Blumenauer-Collins bill would update the tax definitions to greatly reduce the chance that improper taxation could occur. The bill would also broaden the definition to include both pear and apple ciders.

“Cider making is sometimes closer to an art than a science,” said Blumenauer. “As the American apple and pear hard cider industry becomes more prominent on the world stage, and cider becomes a beverage choice for more Americans’ developing palettes, we need to ensure that cideries have every opportunity to expand and meet the needs of this growing market without an unfair tax burden.”

“I am proud to introduce legislation that will support our nation’s apple growers and cider makers,” said Collins. “The CIDER Act will help spur growth in these industries by restructuring taxes to fairer rates that take into account the natural variations in the cider making process. I thank Representative Blumenauer for joining me in this goal to reduce burdens on small businesses and simplify our tax code” said Congressman Chris Collins.

"Confusing regulations and contradictory enforcement of rules is the name of the game for startup and experienced cidermakers alike,” said Nat West, owner of Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider in Portland. “The cider industry is growing astoundingly fast, with Oregon and the Northwest being a hotbed. With clear regulations and a tax structure that mirrors the real world of this agricultural product, we will expand quickly and make ciders that people want to drink."

The changes proposed by Congressman Blumenauer and Collins will update the existing federal definition of cider to better reflect the industry and keep American cider competitive in the international marketplace. Production nationally has been robust, more than tripling from 9.4 million gallons in 2011 to 32 million gallons in 2013. Cider revenues in the U.S. have been just as impressive, tripling from $178 million in 2007 to $601 million in 2012.

"We are very pleased that Congressmen Blumenauer and Collins are working to assist cideries--not only in our part of the country, but nationally as well,” said Sherrye Wyatt, Executive Director of the Northwest Cider Association, which represents cideries in Washington, Oregon, Montana, Idaho, and British Columbia. “These Main Street small businesses are ready to expand their capacity to keep up with strong demand, create jobs, and become a key component of the country’s economic recovery. With tremendous growth, it's an unprecedented time in the Northwest cider industry. We need to remove any barriers which may prevent cider from realizing its greatest potential and write a new chapter in history."

“Today, Congressmen Blumenauer and Collins took a critical first step towards making the United States hard cider industry more competitive internationally and treated more fairly under the tax code,” said Mike Beck, President of the United States Association of Cider Makers (USACM). “Our industry has tripled in size since 2007 and the existing tax structure is insufficient to deal with this growth. As a result, the potential to stunt this surge exists, and HR 600 will remedy this problem. On behalf of the United States Association of Cider Makers, I am pleased to fully endorse this legislation and pledge our grassroots efforts to this legislation’s success.”

Rep. Blumenauer will be addressing the 2015 Cider Convention on February 6th in Chicago.

Thursday, January 29, 2015

There are 4 Wine Guides in Germany: Gault Millau, Feinschmecker, Eichelmann and Falstaff. These are all annual guides, which are released around November/December.

The Eichelmann guide uses stars to rate winemakers. The best producers get 5 stars in the Eichelmann WeinGuide.

Eichelmann WeinGuide: 5 out of 5 Stars

27 producers received the maximum of 5 out of 5 stars in the Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. The number is up by 1 from last year, on account of 2 promotions and 1 demotion. Weingut Gerhard Aldinger (Württemberg) and Weingut Schloss Lieser (Mosel) were promoted to the 5 stars category and Weingut Willi Schaefer (Mosel) was demoted

Interestingly, the list of winemakers from Baden is relatively long in the Eichelmann ranking and the list of winemakers from the Pfalz extremely short. The following wine regions do not appear in the list below, i.e. there is no winemaker with 5 stars: Mittelrhein, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Hessische Bergstrasse.

Interestingly, elsewhere regarded as superstars, Weingut JJ Prüm and Weingut Egon Müller from the Mosel region, both known for their ultra-premium sweet style wines, are not in Eichelmann's 5 stars group of winemakers.

Picture: Friedrich Becker from Weingut Becker in the Pfalz, Werner Naekel from Weingut Meyer-Naekel in the Ahr and Ludwig Kreuzberg from Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in the Ahr (from right to left, in Berlin)

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Picture: With Bettina Keller at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

During the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), we had two long luncheons at 1 star Michelin restaurants: At Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier and at the legendary Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen.

Before the lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, we joined Fritz Keller at his winery, where he showed us around and treated us to a wine tasting that included 10 wines, compared with the 4 wines that had been planned. I have already reported about the tour and tasting with Fritz Keller here:
Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

With the Keller family, which can trace its roots as winemakers and hoteliers back to the Thirty Year War in the early 17-hundreds, everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma, parents of the current owner, were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than forty years ago. Well beyond the immediate post WWII era, the urge to simply have enough food on the table – quantity over quality- lingered on. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star, which the restaurant defends until today. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

The Fritz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Picture: Fritz Keller at our Table

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Pictures: Bettina Keller at our Table

Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Schwarzer Adler is a truly iconic restaurant that has been founded by Franz Keller. In the 1 star Michelin category, this traditional restaurant offers a harmonious mix of Baden country charm and elegance. The menu is a successful marriage of French and German cuisine reflecting the frontier on the nearby Rhine River, which is the border between Germany and France. The impressive wine list boasts 2 600 different wines, including a good selection of bottles from both Baden and France.

Pictures: Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

Fritz Keller: Elegance, style and hospitality with a perceptible French influence create an unmistakable ambiance at our Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. In the kitchens of master chef Anibal Strubinger and Hubert Pfingstag nearby France is as present as the much-lauded local Baden cuisine. The combination of both these influences at the very highest level forms the culinary character of the house.

When I got interested in “fine dining” in the 1970s, Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen was certainly a place one had to go and eat there. Indeed, we did this many times over the years.

Pictures: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen with Head Sommeliere Melanie Wagner during an earlier Visit

Other Restaurants and Hotel Schwarzer Adler

Rebstock is a more basic restaurant, just across the street of the Schwarzer Adler, which has of course different food, but the same wine list as the Schwarzer Adler. The KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery, half a mile down the road from the Schwarzer Adler.

Hotel Schwarzer Adler belongs to the group “Small Luxory Hotels in the World”. It is in the main building, where the restaurant Schwarzer Adler is and also has some rooms in a separate building.

Luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

The wines were selected by Melanie Wagner. She has been Head Sommeliere at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler since 2005. In 2010, she was Germany's Sommelier of the Year (Gault Millau)

Nicolas Thienpont makes a number of Bordeaux wines, ranging from petite chateau wines to classified growth wines, as Owner, Managing Director or Consultant of the estate. David Suire is his right-hand man. David came to Washington DC, USA, to present to us some of the wines he and Nicolas are involved with.

Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and I enjoyed the informal wine tasting with David very much. At times, there was quite a crowd but there were also moments were Annette and I could talk with Mark Wessels, Managing Director of MacArthur Beverages, and David about what is going on in Bordeaux, in terms of the vintage, new restaurants, the upcoming primeur tastings and other right bank wine issues, etc. ahead of Annette annual Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy coming up later this year during September 15 to 24, 2015.

Anyone who know the Thienponts, probably know more than one of the family. There are a dozen or so wine makers and wine traders in the family. I have shortly referred to the 3 most prominent ones (in addition to Nicolas) below.

The Thienpont family is from Belgium. It all started in 1842, when Camille Thienpont began running a successful wine merchant based in Belgium. After the First World War George Thienpont came to Bordeaux and bought Château Troplong Mondot in Saint-Émilion and Vieux Château Certan in Pomerol. In 1934, the family was forced to sell Château Troplong Mondot after a string of bad vintages. But they managed to keep Vieux Château Certan, which today is run by Alexandre Thienpont. In 1946, George Thienport bought Chateau Puygueraud. In 1979, Jacques Thienpont purchased Château Le Pin. Château Vieux Château Certan, Château Puygueraud and Château Le Pin are the crown-jewels of the current Thienpont portfolio, as far as ownership is concerned

Initially, Nicolas Thienpont, did not seem destined for a career in viticulture. He studied law and philosophy, but turned to winemaking in the 1980s. In 1983, he undertook his first vinification at Chateau Puygueraud and from 1985 he assisted his cousin Alexandre at Vieux Chateau Certan. At the end of 1994, the Corre-Macquin family asked him to take over the management of Chateau Pavie Macquin, a Grand Cru Classé. In 2002, Nicolas became Managing Director of Larcis Ducasse.

Alexandre Thienpont studied oenology and became director of Vieux Château Certan in 1985 as natural heir to his father Léon, but also as natural heir to the Thienpont ‘s common heritage.

Jacques Thienpont took over the wine trading business, a company founded by Kamille Thienpont in Hof te Cattebeke, in Etikhove in 1842, in his uncle’s stride. He purchased Le Pin in 1979.

Francois Thienpont worked a few years in the US, in wine distribution in Texas. In 1985, he came back to Bordeaux to oversee the marketing and sales of Château Puygueraud’s wines. François created Wings in 1995. The company distributes the Thienpont family property wines and also represents lesser known châteaux.

David Suire is from the Cognac region. He studied winemaking in Bordeaux and graduated with a Diplôme National d'Oenologue in 2002. Nicolas Thienport picked him from university and David has been working with Nicolas ever since.

Pictures: Wine Tasting with David Suire at MacArthur Beverages

What David Poured

2013 Chateau Charmes Godard Blanc - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

The estate, which was bought by Nicolas Thienpont and his brothers in 1988, produces both red and white wines.

In the Charmes Godard white, it is both the predominance of Semillon and the winemaking techniques (barrel fermentation and lies contact) that give the wine its richness and good supporting acidity. Its aromatic complexity is due to judicious blending with Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris. 70% Semillon, 15% Muscadelle, 15% Sauvignon Gris.

2010 La Prade - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

Château La Prade was bought by Nicolas Thienpont in 2000. Situated in the commune of Saint Cibard, the vines are planted partly on a limestone plateau and partly on clay/limestone slopes and it is the complexity of these terroirs that gives the wine its subtlety and elegance. 4.3 hectares. 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc.

2009 Puygueraud - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

The property was acquired by George Thienpont in 1946. Since 1983, Nicolas has been managing the estate. Chateau Puygueraud has since become the benchmark wine for the Cotes de Francs and a reference for the renewal of this still little-known appellation. 35 hectares. 55% Merlot (no more Cabernet Sauvignon with effect from 2005) 25% Cabernet Franc 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Malbec.

2010 Trimoulet - St Emilion Sale $21.99

Chateau Trimoulet has been owned and managed by the Jean family since 1802. 7 hectares. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in 75%, new French oak for 12 months. Nicolas Thienport has been consulting starting with the 2011 vintage, both in the vineyard and the cellar.

2009 Croix de Beauséjour St Emilion Sale $39.99

Château Beauséjour, formerly fully titled Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, is ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B in the Classification of Saint-Émilion wine. The Croix de Beauséjour is their second wine.

When the historic estate in its entirety came to Pierre-Paulin Ducarpe, it was divided in 1869 between his two children. The son inherited the half which was sold in 1924 to Dr. Fagouet, altering the name to Château Beauséjour Dr-Fagouet (present day Château Beau-Séjour Bécot) and his daughter who wed Doctor Duffau-Lagarrosse, received what became Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. The vineyard area extends 7 hectares with the grape varieties of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2007 Larcis Ducasse - St Emilion Sale $49.99

The Gratiot family has owned Château Larcis Ducasse, a Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé, for over a century. 2002 was the first vintage produced by Managing Director Nicolas Thienpont.

Stephen Tanzer, www.wineaccess.com (May 08) 89-92/100: Moderately saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black fruits, coffee and mocha, with a whiff of cherry liqueur. Then sweet, round and soft, with noteworthy depth to the black fruit, mineral and licorice flavors. Finishes sweet and long, with ripe, suave tannins and very good breadth. Serious, complex, stylish wine with plenty of shape and energy.

Thanks David for swinging by. This little corner in the back of MacArthur Beverages has seen quite a number of prominent winemakers before your tasting, including, for instance, Henri Lurton from Brane Cantenac and Ernst Loosen from Dr. Loosen.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and David Suire at MacArthur Beverages

Wine Tours

About Me

I live in the greater Washington DC (US) and Frankfurt am Main (Germany) areas and write about wine. I am a member of the FIJEV (International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers). Before starting to write about wine in 2009, I was for almost 30 years an economist at the International Monetary Fund (IMF). I am currently in Washington DC.