So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

Suspension setup is a bit of an art and I'd do some more reading.

- Mark

Well put. If you have more money than time, a reputable suspension shop could do the mechanical work for you, then get it set up pretty close for your planned riding conditions. Otherwise, find another rider in your weight/ ability class that has a good setup, and attempt to copy it. Those are the only real shortcuts that will get you close.
Psycho

The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

Suspension setup is a bit of an art and I'd do some more reading.

- Mark

Thanks for the advice Mark. I don't have the owners manual as I bought it new but I think your explanation will help me experiment.

I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??

Look at Race Tech or other suspension expert's web sites. They should have a method for you to enter a weight and riding style and calculate the spring rate. Removing the shock is kind of tricky but doable with a sturdy two rail jack-harbor freight has them as well as Sears. You can remove the spring in a sturdy vice and install the new one. Then mess with the clickers. However if the shock is a high mileage unit sent it in to the suspension experts for a rebuilt with fresh oil and seals and they will install the spring. It's only money.

Tomorrow we'll be in Singapore and Chennai the day after. Our bikes are waiting for us at the other end for a couple of months in India.

Way cool! Are you going to write a R/R about this ride?

__________________Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!"

The Racetech site will recommend fork springs that are too stiff... it is a well known problem. 6.0 rear and not more than 0.50 front springs for a 100kg rider.

No vice or compressors are required. Back the pre-load rings and the whole lot will fall apart.

I weigh in at 235 lbs currently and run a 6.0 Racetech spring, I would say most guys would find it a tad stiff. It barely falls within loaded/unloaded sag numbers for me without gear. I weighed 255lbs when I installed it.

I weigh in at 235 lbs currently and run a 6.0 Racetech spring, I would say most guys would find it a tad stiff. It barely falls within loaded/unloaded sag numbers for me without gear. I weighed 255lbs when I installed it.

I am slowly converting my "S" into an SM, I have the SM forks that I am planing on leaving stock (as I cant find heaver rate springs) and I too was looking at putting a 6.0 in the rear, I am also around 230#.....what do you think, too stiff?

__________________
2003 Aprilia RST1000 Futura
2006 Harley Davidson FLHTPI
2004 Suzuki DR-Z400s (Motard)
"Drinking Rum before 10 am does not make you an Alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate"

So, anyone had any luck in converting a DRZ-E into a street legal version ? Is it as easy as Im thinking , minus the DMV headaches ? I really like my E and I think if I could ride it legally on he road ,Id like it even more -

I am slowly converting my "S" into an SM, I have the SM forks that I am planing on leaving stock (as I cant find heaver rate springs) and I too was looking at putting a 6.0 in the rear, I am also around 230#.....what do you think, too stiff?

No, it would be perfect for that setup. I use the 6.0 kg rear with stock 2002 RM 250 front springs and the setup is very well balanced. SM bikes are supposed to be a tad stiffer than normal. Post Pics!!

I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??

You can search each thread from the tool bar. This is from pg1340 of this thread. I realize you were looking for Gas Settings, but as mentioned the issue is likely too light of a spring.

Hey fellas I am wondering if you might be able to enlighten me about the new noises coming from the old 400E. Seems that maybe the chain is stretching or the guides are wearing cause I can readjust the manual cam chain tensioner and the noise will go away for a while but then it comes back after a 100 miles or so. At least until today anyway, now maybe every 50 miles. I am adjusting it correctly and the slapping noise will go away but then it comes back.

I guess I am wondering if this is a normal wearing of these items? If so, should I expect to replace the chain and guides only? Will the sprockets have wear too?

Thanks for any advice!

__________________
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

So, anyone had any luck in converting a DRZ-E into a street legal version ? Is it as easy as Im thinking , minus the DMV headaches ? I really like my E and I think if I could ride it legally on he road ,Id like it even more -

I converted my son's DRZ this spring. The one big surprise is that there were two versions of the E built in 2002, and mine happened to be the one that did not have the dual-filament bulb - so I had to buy a headlight, which was an unplanned expense.

A lot of the information posted on the Internet is for models other than the E, so it is sometimes hard to sort out the facts.

Guys I have kind of a goofy sounding question, but I cant find the aswer anywhere. I had the petcodk keak and I filled the cylinder with gas. Got that sorted out, and got her running again, but she really wants to stall, wont hold an idle well without some choke and just in general is ragged off the bottom. From reading it seemed to be the consensus that the floats were stuck in the bowl, which would have been a factor in all of the above nonsense. I took the carb off, and the bowl, but the floats seem to bee moving without any stick, is there something else I should be looking for? I havent taken a carb apart since my 02 CR250, and I am a little worried about messing up my reliable as a brick DRZ. . Thanks in advance for the advice.

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NMOHVA Member NMTA Member07 CRF450x, 04 Beta Rev3 270, I like red bikes
A good friend will take you trail riding, an ADV friend will double back and say, "how did you get down there?"