: Most of us are chocoholics at heart, and Coco was created to remind us of that fact --- and, as the owners freely admitted, to appeal to women. But the food-of-the-gods menu seems to be turning more scatter-shot secular of late; even the initial French accents have become broader with the appearance of such dishes as chicken wings, “grown-up” mac ‘n’ cheese, and an American Kobe beef burger with duck fat fries. Chocolate remains in a chicken mole, in a barbecue dipping sauce for the surf ‘n’ turf, and in shaved (white) form over a salad, but only the desserts are now the culinary counterparts of the unabashedly over-the-top décor (chandeliers abound and there are shell-shaped red velvet booths). Sampling a dark chocolate Kiss with raspberry coulis and a lilting rosé sparkler might help evoke past glory.