Archive for the Moscow Category

We are so sad and thrown into confusion when we see right now the dramatic situation in Russia, especially around and in Moscow with all the people suffocating, suffering, and the land devastated…We think about all the people who received us so warmly and hope they are well.

first, a great place : a former garage built in late 20’s transformed recently into a private center for contemporary art, with great temporary exhibitions, high international level ! and a very cool restaurant too inside.

The owner is Dasha Zhukova, the fiancé of famous billionnaire Abramovitch.

We could a see an exhibition of Rothko paintings, for the first time in Russia, very moving.

+ a very interesting exhibition about performance art, showing many documents and videos.

But my favorite work was an amazing video (actually photos giving the illusion of video)/ installation by russian collective AEF+ S, called the Feast of Trimalchio, you’re immerged in the center of a room surrounded by 3 giant screens into an exotic paradise, a kind of Thaï Abu-Dhabi ! The roles between masters and servant are going to be reverted little by little…fashion models and perfect bodies played the parts.

please visit their web site : http://www.aes-group.org

Another very good place like a laboratory for russian artists : Winzavod, a former wine storage place converted into a center for cutting edge art with private art dealers, a center for temporary exhibitions, fashion and design shops, lectures and meetings are organized there too. And of course a delicious restaurant inside.

We were very well received by Sofia Trotsenko, the head of project and Julia, developper.

I think my favorite museum is Pouchkine museum for Degas and his mesmerizing blue dancers , Matisses (the goldfishes-the big pink workshop…), Picassos, Gauguins, a beautiful japonizing Redon…many of these modern masterpieces are coming from Morozov and Chtoukine private collections.

But don’t forget Tretiakov gallerry for Roublev’s icones, and its excellent 19th russian painters like Serov (their Manet) and the symbolist Vroubel (picture below, the Swan Princess). There is another Tretiakov gallery for 20th century in vintage communist times style building (we could say an architectural statement today, nevertheless pefect for modern art exhibition !), with abstract artist like my favorite : Malevitch and his famous black square.

We were lucky also to se a temporary exhibition in the Moscow Museum of Modern Art devoted to Alexandra Exter, cubo-futurist artist who worked ballet decors and costumes, as for theatre and even movie.

1) the Kremlin, the actual seat of power and residence of the president.Formerly the citadel of Czars, originnally built in wood in 1156.

Don’ t miss the square with marvellous cathedrals, like the Assumption (picture) and the Annunciation. Impressive icones adorning the walls, some made by famous painter Andrei Rublev.I loved the floor made of jasper and agate (very rare) in the one of the Annunciation.

there is a also a very pleasant garden inside the Kremlin, that looks like a city into a city.

to see absolutly : the diamod fund in the Kremlin museum !! I’ve never seen so much big gold nuggets ! and so many diamonds, like the mythical one the Orlov adorning Catherine sceptre.

The Kremlin museum is really worth visiting it : the treasures offered by foreign courts to Russia , the dresses of the Great Catherine for coronation, the biggest collections of oldest coaches, splendid Fabergé works…many amazing testimonies of the wealth of Russian court.

2) The red square :

For me , I totally identify Moscow to that fabulous cathedral : Saint Bazil closing Red Square perspective. I feel like beeig in a Kandinsky painting, like a day dream. Oh my god, the sens of colours and decors, the proliferation of motifs, everything turns clear ! you can even understand Malevith suprematism when you look at the clothes of saints painted on icons, adorned with black crosses and circles…

The most fashionable hotels and very well located are The Ritz-Carlton and The Park Hyatt, a stone throw from the Red Square.

Have a drink on the top floor of the Park Hyatt, impressive view on Moscow.

My favorite places for a diner :

– Baccarat restaurant :

located in a former casino (they are now forbiden all around Russia), impressive decor by Stark and Baccarat of course. I’m already a fan of baccarat show room in paris and cristal room restaurant…The chef is french,from alsace excellent tasting menu for 100 euros. Delicious mix between russian and french cuisine. Very Deluxe atmosphere and refined as well…

The House of Writers ‘ restaurant where we met the russian ambassadors in Madrid and Amsterdam…

For connoisseurs only, the best herrings with potatoes I’ve ever had !! excellent bortsch too, delicious zakouski, the perfect russian dinner in a cosy atmosphere. Go there with theatre peole or writers.