This corner of Belgravia now contains three Sardinian restaurants owned by the irrepressible Mauro Sanna, which seems rather a lot considering that the local Mafiosi are exclusively Russian rather than Sicilian. However, the mixture of eye-wateringly chic 1960s-style white decor and an impressively authentic menu, filled with relatively unusual seafood like cuttlefish and urchins, has ensured that it's even trickier to get a table at Olivomare than it is at Olivo or Oliveto. Though not cheap, prices are very reasonable considering that every dish contains dazzlingly fresh seafood - seafood that is good enough to stand on its own, without the weight of tomato and olive oil that often makes up for bad ingredients at less scrupulous Italian restaurants. Simple, unusual and faultlessly cool.

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