Hi to everybody!This time I introduce a particular job.A customer of mine bought this beautiful statue from “Sideshow” American firm. When he was cleaning it, the head fell and broke in different zones. He asked me to repair it and to paint it again…Here as it presented.

I used modeling plaster for the chin and the nose of the mask. For the ear of the bat mask I inserted inside of it a small metal pipe as armour and support. Then I reconstructed the piece using Magic-Sculpt (a resin pasta used for creating sculptures)

First I painted all the madel with “White Surface Primer” 73600 of the Vallejo using the airbrush. Than I used “Muskol” Humbrol and “Masking Putty” (firm Mig) to cover the zones not to color.From below I applied a light hand of “Black Surface Primer” 73602 of Vallejo to create a “First Shade.”

From above I applied a light veil of Basic Skintone 70815 Vallejo using the airbrush. I mixed in equal parts the BS 70815 with the Desert Yellow 70977 Vallejo and than, always from above, I applied a light touch.

From below I applied the color Medium Fleshtone 70860 Vallejo using the airbrush. In this way I created various tonalities of chiaroscuro of the skin.

I slightly darkened the MF with some Flath Earth 70983 Vallejo and I focused the color among the folds of the lips, cheeks, under the chin…

To create the effect “Beard” I used the wash ” Nuln Oil” of the Games Workshop.

For the Lips I used the color Hull Red 70985 of the Vallejo as base, then I mixed, in various phases, the color Scarlet Red 71003 Vallejo Model Air, Bright Orange 70851 Vallejo, Gold Jellow 71078 Vallejo Model air and White 70951 Vallejo to get to the desired effect.

I covered the face skin with the product Humbrol’s “Maskol” and I painted the mask with Black 70950 Vallejo using the airbrush. For the lights effect I mixed in equal parts the LightTurquoise 70840 Vallejo and Turquoise 70966 Vallejos and I applied it in the strategic points.

I apologize me to have been absent for a lot of time….meanwhile I completed some works and I am ready to show them to you.

Directly from Forgeworld here “Sayl the Faithless and Nightmaw” …

Sayl The Faithless and nightmaw

A couple of very beautiful miniatures and easily inseribili in any game….

The material in which they have been printed is an enough elastic resin of grey color. The models had several smudges and, unfortunately, air bubblesthat ruined other details. After a few hours of trimming burrs and fills the holes left by air bubbles, I gave a praimer color white.

Base color: “Military Green” 70975 Val diluted in proportions 50% “MG” and 50% water. For the areas in shade I added to the basic color a small amount of color Black. For the light areas I added to the basic color small amount of color 70970 “Deep Green” Val and I crossed again until I got the desired result. Then I used the 70827 “Lime Green” for the hits of light. Remember to dilute the color at least of 25% with water: it is better to make several passes of brush instead of leaving a rough stroke.

INNER COAT

After having made the first chiaroscuris, I used a mixture of “MG” with addition of Black color (in proportions of “MG” 1/2 Black / Water 2) to create some symbols similar to the “Rune”, Geometric Forms and Points. Within these I used the color 70970 “Deep Green” diluted 50% with water and then I rehearsed the edges “recreated” with the 70827 “Lime Green” well diluted. In the lighter areas I used the “LG” with addition of a small amount of color Yellow. I used the same process in other areas instead using the color “Deep Purple” GW diluted 50% with water for areas in shadow, then I added the “Pink Tentacle” GW in proportions 75% “DP” / 25% “TP” and I created the lighter areas. I further mixed color base “DP” with “TP” in proportions of 50% “DP” / 50% “TP” and water and I stood out areas chiare.Ho used color for White light shots.

Base color: “Ultramarine Blue” GW diluted with water in proportion 1 “UB” / 1 Water. For the clear zones I gradually added to the basic color some small amount of ” Space Wolf Grey” GW. Then I used “SWG” pure to bring out the zones of light.

For the “Armor” I used the ‘”UB” GW mixed with 925 “Intense Blue” Val in proportions of 1 “UB” / 1 “IB” / 2 Water. I directly painted the clear zones with the “IB” diluted in proportions of 1 “IB” / 3 Water, while for the clear zones I used the ” UB” pure diluted with the same procedure described for the suit.

DECORATIONS

Base color: “Bubonic Brown” GW diluted. From the center of the frieze toward the dark zones I have used the 70860 “Mediun Flashtone” Val diluted in proportion of 1 “MF” / 3 Water. I have painted the zones completely in shade with 71040 “Burnt Umber” Val (being a color for airbrushes there was no need to dilute it). For clear zones I used the 70953 “Flat Yellow” Val diluted 50% with Water. As last passage to accent the edges and to simulate the hits of light I used the White.

Base color: 70860 “Mediun Flashtone” Val. I added to the basic color a small amount of Brown color and, diluting it with water until it became like a “washing”, I darkened the zones in shade.While for the clear zones I added to the basic color a quantity of 70815 “Basic Skintone” Val in proportions 50/50, always well diluted with water. I used the “Basic Skintone” pure for the hits of light.

HORNS, BAG, BELTSAND LEATHER TRIM

Base color: 71040 “Burnt Umber”. I marked the zones in relief with a mix of basic color and a small amount of “GraveYard Earth” GW. Then I added the “GE” in small amount to point out the clear zones. For the hits of light I have used of the “Bleached Bone” GW. For the horns the same procedure.

For these elements I followed the same procedure described in the “Commander Of Nurgle” ‘s article

MAGIC POLE:

-POLE

Basic color: “Scorched Brown” GW very diluted. For the dark zones I added to the basic color some 71040 “Burnt Umber” Val in proportions of 1 “BU” / 5 “SB” / 3 Water. I began to paint the pole from around the half of itself, then, increasing with small percentages of “BU”, I moved toward the zone in shade (close to the magician’s suit) arriving to use the color “UB” pure to accent the darkest zones. For the clear zones I mixed some “Snakebite Leather” GW to the basic color () and, moving towards the brightest zones, I added some small of quantities of “SL” until I used it “pure”. For the hits of light on the edges I used some Desert Yellow” GW. Always remember to dilute the colors so that they leave a light layer.

-Upper Frieze (head of the baton)

Basic color: 70908 “Carmine Red” Val. For the dark zones I used some “Scab Red” very diluted and I colored them different times until I got the desired effect. For the clear zones I gradually added to the basic color some small quantities of 70851 ” Bright Orange” Val until to use this last “pure” to underline better the illuminated parts. To amalgamate the different passages of color I “washed” the piece with the “Bahal Red” GW. I used 70953 “Flat Yellow” Val for the hits of light.

Basic color: 70830 “German Fieldgrey” VAl and 70924 “Russian Uniform” Val in proportion 50/50. The passages that I’m going to explain have to be developed in succession. After the layer of basic color I performed a “washing” with “Raw Umber” W&N in proportions 1 “RU” / 5 thinner. Then I used the “GF” for a “Drybrushing” stopping myself on the clear zones. To this I made an other passage of washing with the color to oil (RU). I created a mix of equal parts (50/50) of “Catachan Green” GW and “Graveyard Earth” GW and performed a “Drybrushing” on the whole model, detaining me on the clear zones. Other “washing” of oil color. Then I used the “GE” pure still for a “Dry” followed by a oil “washing”. Only for the clear zones I used some “Command Khaki” pure for a “dry”, followed by the oil “washing”. However, for the zones in shade I performed a “washing” of color Black W&N, diluted in proportions 1 color / 5 thinner, detaining myself on the folds of the skin and the limbs. To show the parts in relief of the whole model I performed a very light “Drybrushing” of color Yellow. A light “washing” of “RU” in proportion 1 color / 8 thinner harmonized the color’s layers.

EXPOSED BONES: light hits of brush with the color “Bleaced Bone” GW

EXPOSED FLASH

Basic color: “Scab red” GW with a small amount of color Purple. Departing from the zones in shade, I have performed different passages of thin color to arrive to the clearest zones. In order they are: “Scab Red “GW; “Red Gore” GW; 70908 “Carmine Red” Val; “Blood Red” GW, all diluted in proportions 1 Color / 3 Water.

“BLOOD” EFFECT

For this effect I mixed the color X-27 “Clear Red” Tamiya with the Black color and the tube glue “UHU” in proportions 3 “CR “/1 Black / 3 Glue (the proportions can vary if the “blood” is wanted darker or clearer, more liquid or less liquid, or of another color replacing, for example, the Black color with the Brown one). Remember to use an old brush to stretch the everything.

I carved a wood cylinder (purchased in a shop of Hobbystica) to create some steps. I covered the surface with abundant of plaster for modelling and I leveled it with a small spatula. Just dry I engraved with various metallic points the stucco for creating the flooring and the Chaos’ symbol. Before the base was ready to be painted,I had glued somerubble on it.

Basic color: 70860 “medium Flashtone” Val. Following the conformation of the floor, the cracks and the breakings I painted the stone with “Bleeched Bone” GW and 70951 ” White” Val, VERY DILUTED, creating some “stains” typical of the marble.

I diluted the oil color “Raw Umber” W&N with some thinner in proportions 1 color / 5 thinner and, with the point of a brush, I colored the lines of escape, the cracks and the breakings. I repeated different times this operation until to get the effect of my taste. With some Red and Blue color, very diluted, I created some veins in the marble. I used of the “RU” diluted in proportions 1 color / 8 thinner to give three-dimentional form to the cracks and the gradients of the floor. I exalted the details using the oil color “Ivory Black” W&N (1 color / 5 thinner).

For the symbol of the Chaos I used the same procedure previously explained, but I used as basic color 70985 “Hull Red” Val, some Red color for the stains and some Green and Orange for the veins.

• Bust • Head • Right arm wielding the mythical Sword • Cloak • Left Arm • The Grip of the Sword.

Even for this miniature, the quality of Nocturna is not denied.

The surface of the skin is very smooth and there is not one hole ofairbubble. The bodice is well made, so that you can see clearly the folds of the fabric. The holes, hooks and strings are printed perfectly and detailed.

The thickness of the socks is almost imperceptible and the effect of the texture of the stockings , that tighten gently the legs of the heroine , is very well realized .

There are very few errors of casting resin, it appearing only at the center of the legs. However, the Nocturna has had the courtesy to delete, previously, the coarser parts, facilitating the work of the hobbyist.

The upper torso has no imperfections and it is very rich in details such as buckles, belts and rings nicely finished. The junction area between the hair and the bust is well designed and detailed. The hair has been finely sculpted and there is a good continuity between the zones. The only flaw: there are holes created by air bubbles and acoarse finish where, perhaps, there was a channel to vent … (on the head) but with a little patience you can fix that. The assembly between the upper and lower part of the torso has some little difficulty, but easily overcome.

The oval face is well sculpted, without imperfections and the details such as the eyes, nostrils and mouth half open have no burrs … you just have to make the surface smoother, if one wants to … But be careful not to sand the hair strands ….

The coat is made ​​from a single piece of mold … nothing to observe and argue … very nice is the fabric effect obtained withslight horizontal lines worked with accurate incisions.

The legendary sword …

The piece was obtained from a single injection and I have to say …they did a great work. The sword is well finished but has same small smudges where there are in the areas of the tips and the heads of snakes … at least, ( so there is a bit of work for us modellers) . Very well detailed the crucified man with a skull instead of the head , in the center of the sword hilt … you may also notice the nails on the palms of the hands…

If the blade of the sword looks is crooked or bent slightly … do not worry , just use a normal hair dryer to heatslightly the area and bring it back to the right shape and angle …

The arm that wieldthe sword is an explosion of details.

Between the fabric, the armor’s plates of protecting the forearm, thewrist, the back of hand , the fingers …The KNUCKLES … There is to lose yourself in all the details well sculpted… not to mention the small cords which bind all these plates … my hands tremble with happiness at the thought of painting them …