Shop by Manufacturer

Please Note

MarineEngine.com does not offer troubleshooting assistance or repair advice by email or by telephone. You are invited to join our public Boat Repair Forum to seek assistance from other members. You may also visit the Boat Motor Manuals section of our site to obtain a service manual.

Could any one tell me if a 199

Could any one tell me if a 1998 Evinrude model no.E115TSIEMis suppose to be able to charge the starting battery or not.I have benn told that it does and another said it did not.It has never charged since it was brand new.

The model number does not make

The model number does not make sense to me. A &#39;98 model should include the year letters EC .

Should it be E115TSLECM ?

As far as I can see 1998 115 models will either be fitted with a &#40;water cooled&#41;regulator/rectifier or one of the round non regulating rectifiers &#40;three wire&#41;. &#40;The latter in the case of TSL models&#41; Depending upon the exact model.

Which ever it should provide a battery charging capability.

The rectifier may have been blown as a result of connecting the battery the wrong way round. .... Instant death.

The round 3 wire &#40;and 4 wire&#41; rectifiers can easily be checked using a multimeter with a diode check range.

The water cooled rectifier regulator &#40;which it seems is fitted to the TSX &#40;25&#34;&#41; models&#41; is shown as part #82 in the diagram in my link and the non regulated rectifier &#40;fitted to TSL &#40;20&#34;&#41; models&#41; is shown as part #79.

I can&#39;t help with testing the regulated type but the non regulated one can be tested as follows.

Disconnect the leads from the nearby terminal strip &#40;remove the rectifier completely if you prefer&#41;
Connect one lead of a multimeter set to the diode test range to the red lead and the other to one of the yellow leads. Note the reading if any.
Reverse the meter leads. If you had a reading above you should now not have a reading or vice versa.

Now repeat the above between the red and the other yellow.

Then repeat the whole procedure between the case and the two yellows.

Each time you should get a reading with the meter connected one way but not if connected the other.

Each test is on one of the four diodes that make up the rectifier.

If you have any blown diodes in there you&#39;ll get no reading in either direction on them. If it has been blown by connecting the battery the wrong way you&#39;ll find two blown diodes at least.

BTW some motors have a 4 wire rectifier, with 3 yellow leads. Extend the above to the third yellow in that case as they have 6 diodes&#41;

Sometimes it is possible to use one of the ohms ranges of a meter that does not have a diode test range, but not all meters work on all the ohms ranges and some work on none of them. One of the higher resistance ranges is most likely to work if any do I think.

IF JWB is right, and he probably is, then it has the watercooled rectifier/regulator regardless of the shaft length."

"IF IT IS CHARGING, CAN YOU TA

"IF IT IS CHARGING, CAN YOU TAKE A REGULAR DC VOLT METER, OR AMP METER AND HOOK TO THE GROUND AND HOT OF THE BATTERY CABLES AND TELL. IF SO HOW MANY VOLTS OR AMPS SHOULD IT BE PUTTING OUT ON THE TESTER. THANKS, RANDY"

I thought you said it wasn'

I thought you said it wasn&#39;t charging!

But you can check with a voltmeter. Read the battery volts before you start. If the battery is good and charged it should be abt 12.7 volts. Start up and watch the volts. It&#39;ll fall during starting but then should rise to a figure well above the 12.7 but you will have to rev the engine a bit. To be charging effectively you need 14volts &#43;/- 0.2 volts. An unregulated rectifier will give a much higher figure as the battery recharges and you increase the revs.

You could check the current if you know what you are up to. Remember an ammeter goes in series and must not be subjected to the starter motor current.

Good luck its gone 2 o&#39;clock in the morning here. I&#39;m off to bed!

"THANKS VIC, . I RECHECKED THE

"THANKS VIC, . I RECHECKED THE MODEL NUMBER AND IT IS CORRECT. IT IS A TSLEM, MANUFACTURED DATE 09/1997.I CAN NOT TELL IF IT IS CHARGING OR NOT WITH A BATTERY/ VOLT TESTER. I JUST BOUGHT THE BOAT FROM THE ORINGAL OWNER AND HE SAID THAT IT HAD NOT CHARGED SINCE HE BOUGHT THE BOAT BRAND NEW. HE HAS ALWAYS USE A 2 BANK CHARGER ON THE STARTING BATTERY AND THE TROLLING BATTERY.HE SAID THAT WAS THE ONLY WAY HE COULD KEEP THE BATTERY UP.SO HE TOLD ME THAT IT NEVER HAD CHARGED.SO FROM WHAT I AM FINDING OUT FROM YOU GUYS , THER IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT IF IT IS NOT CHARGING.I DON&#39;T KNOW MUCH ABOUT OUTBOARD MOTORS.WHEN I PUT A VOLT METER ON THE BATTERY IT SHOWS AROUND 12 VOLTS WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND WITH IT RUNNING ALSO.IT DOE NOT INCREASE LIKE THE VOLT METER DOES ON A CAR.THAT IS WHY I AM TRYING TO FIND THE BEST WAY TO TEST FOR CHARGING. THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO. IF ANY THING ELSE YOU KNOW TO HELP PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANKS, RANDY"

"if you the water cooled type

"if you the water cooled type behind the flywheel , instead of the round rectifier with three wires, it should have a voltage regulator which will not show drastic differences like the unregulated rectifiers......... a car alternator puts out a lot amperage than a boat..........and if your car voltage gauge works like a tach when you rev it up you are more than likely on the verge of buying a new voltage regulaotr, complete alternator, or a new battery which ever is the culprit.

as stated above DO NOT hook up your batt cables backwards------IT WILL kill your regulator instantly......already been there."

"[i]do you have a tachomet

&#34;do you have a tachometer?
if you do and it is working you should be charging&#34;

A tachometer needs a power supply and an input signal. Yes ? It gets the input signal from the ac output from the stator? In the absence of a battery &#40;on a hand started engine for example&#41; the power supply comes from the rectifier.
Am I correct?
Now if the rectifier is blown but there is a battery connected the tacho will get its power supply directly from the battery and therefore still work. Or have I missed something.

The voltage tests Randy has done do indicate that the rectifier is blown BUT there could be a connection off somewhere. There is a fuse in there too. I dont know what circuit that&#39;s in but it would be sensible to check it.

Even a regulated rectifier will show a rise in volts if it is charging. Just like a car voltmeter ... that&#39;s regulated!

Check the volts at the red wire from the rectifier. If there&#39;s a bad connection or a fuse blown then there will be no volts when the engine is not running but if the rectifier is OK there will be when it is running.

"THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION.WH

"THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION.WHERE IS A GOOD PLACE ON THE INTERNET TO GET A SERVICE MANUEL FOR THIS ENGINE THAT HAS A DETAIL, AND PICTURES OF REPLACEING THE RECT, AND SHOWING EXACTLY WHERE IT IS LOCATED ON THE ENGINE. THANKS FOR EVERYTHING, RANDY. PS IS THIS A JOB FOR A BOAT SHOP OF IS IT PRETTY EASY TO CHANGE"

"ur model number,does not appe

"ur model number,does not appear correct......
however,..this is the one,for 97 115--
0507267--what i am recommending,is a full factory service manual---this,appears to maybe,be a copy,i dont know...ask andrew menkart on here...."

"You tach works off an AC puls

"You tach works off an AC pulse from the stator. You can take the rectifier/regulator out and throw it away and as long as the tach is connected to one of the yellow wires coming from the stator, it will work &#40;if the stator is good&#41;. The connection for the tach is made at the rectifier/regulator simply because it is a convenient place to make it. The 2 yellow wires coming from the stator feed a full wave bridge rectifier consisting of 4 &#40;sometimes 6&#41; diodes. It depends on which diode gets damaged whether it will affect the tach or not. Bottom line is the charging system can be damaged but the tach still work."

"Check AC voltage from the sta

"Check AC voltage from the stator... if you have voltage there, then check and recheck the rectifier, red wire coming out from the rectifier &#40;to battery&#41; should have at least 13 V right after you start the motor due to the voltage lost due to cranking the motor, but voltage should be never higher than 14.6 Vů a bad battery could cause blown diodes in the rectifierů"

"Why can't you check with

"Why can&#39;t you check with a dc voltmeter? Check the voltage first at the battery, then start and let run and check again. It should read around 12.5 VDC, and then go up to around 14VDC &#43;/- while running. If it&#39;s not charging the voltage will drop after it&#39;s running. Any volt/ohm meter will read 12vdc."

exactly

"I was refuring to Randy's

"I was refuring to Randy&#39;s eairlyer comment. He said, &#34;I can not tell if it is charging or not with a Battery/volt tester&#34;. Sorry for the confussion.
Someone else suggested it, so i thought i would ask about is comment.I use that test as a basic indicator of the charging system. Keep up the great work guys."

"With the tach you cant always

"With the tach you cant always say it is charging or not, I had 93&#39; 70 hp that charged at an idel , but when I went above 1800 rpm, the tach droped like a rock and so did the charging. even though it passes all tests it still could be a bad regulator. Try to get a used one and try it out then."

lets try to trap this problem

lets try to trap this problem to find out exactly whats going on..take a reading from the negative to the positive post on the battery...on a fully charged battery this should be 12.7 volts or close to it...write this reading down...start engine and run at approx 2000 rpm....let it run for 5 minutes before taking any additional reading...let motor continue to run...leave your meter leads across the battery...take a reading and write this down...leave the negative meter lead on the batery...move the positive lead to the red wire output of the regulator..take a reading....write it down...move the negative lead of the meter to a good ground on the motor...write this reading down....get back to us with the readings...respectfully...Carl