I think many modern hooks may be a work hardening alloy. I think this is why certain hooks have press flats on the sides after they were formed.
To my knowledge, heating and then rapid cooling in oil is known as heat treating and the specific act of dunking in oil is called quenching. Tempering is when you then reheat to a known temperature so it is less hard and less brittle. Much of hook making is steeped in mystery in the tackle business, but in metal working making metals to different degrees of hardness or toughness (not the same thing) is pretty well documented. We have been doing it for a couple thousand years.
I expect if I dedicated a month or two (maybe less) just to working on to it I could learn to make decent quality hooks a couple different ways. Its just not worth it unless I was bankrolled to go into hook making in a big way. I expect any custom spring maker could make hooks if they wanted to with little research.
Getting back to the OP. Yes Anglinarcher is correct in that heating the hook will likely soften it. Maybe even to its fully annealed state. I wouldn't even consider welding one. You might (maybe) be able to make your "eye" or loop by wrapping some wire around the hook leaving a loop and then carefully soldering it with a suitable flux. The key is going to be how quickly you can perform the soldering process and how low of a temperature you can solder at. I don't think I would even consider silver solder temperatures, and I've had mixed luck wetting out lead solder to hooks. Perhaps if you abrade the hook surface first it might wet out better. I'd probably start out with a search engine result for "low temperature soldering."
An alternative to solder with no heat might be to use the wrapped wire method described above and then glue it with something like JB-Weld or PC7. Again, I think you would need to abrade the hook in order to get a decent bond.
Just my opinions of course.

Does anyone know where to get Boy Howdy lure blanks? I love the bait, but the factory finish doesn’t hold up on some colors. In my first efforts at lure painting, I sanded some down and repainted them. They came out great and worked catching three nice bass on a tough day. The sanding down is a pain.

I would have to say...Smelly Jelly, the most powerful scent they have is Bass Feast
all of their scents are strong as heck but the bass feast is the head honcho. I got to meet the owner once at a show, told him I'm huge fan of his product and which one which one I liked which was bass feast. He told me that the last batch they do, everything get opened up even in summer cause how strong the scent is.
hope I helped

Hi all, new member from Illinois. I still tie my own crappie jigs and used to build spinners and rigs as well as making a few rods when I was younger. Now that I'm retired I've got more time to fish and looking to start making my own equipment again. Looking forward to chatting with you all and getting some help and new ideas.

A couple of weeks ago I received an order of a few pints of scent from a well known manufacturer, so I could sample them before placing a larger order. All of the scents, beside the garlic had very little to no actual smell, if they weren't labelled then I wouldn't be able to tell them apart from each other. On the other side of the coin, I have several nearly empty bottles of 10 year old scent, (Brand Unknown, no labels) Shrimp, Earthworm, Crawfish and Shad and I can stand 5 metres from each of these bottles and tell exactly what they are.
I thought the latest order was from the same company as the old ones, but it is obviously not. I'm not located in the states, so getting samples from every manufacturer is an expensive exercise.
Looking for advice on what company sells the smelliest most concentrated scent.

I won't say welding is not possible, but the higher heat of welding normally removes the temper from the hook. This will leave the hook so soft that it is not hardly a hook anymore.
On the other hand, I once, as a youngster, heated hooks to bend them into a jig hook, then dunked them in oil, to retemper them.
Soooooo, in theory, you could weld the hook and then retemper them.
Again, lots and lots of theory.

Once you have the blades powder coated, you can add details with an airbrush paint like Createx. Dip a toothpick or fine paint brush into a drop of the paint, and add your dots/detailing. Once it's been thoroughly dried, top coat with clear nail polish, two coats.

To all I've offended recently regarding the cool lure contest; especially the judges and the contestants I want to sincerely offer my apologies. It was way out of character of me to act the way I did and I just wanted to log in to truly say I'm sorry.

So got a Tjs Tackle airbrush this weekend and having a lot of fun with it. Trying to add trout dots to my lures. Used an oil based paint pen. First try it smudged on me and my crafty wife recommended that I head it up to cure it and that appears to work but will have to see how durable it is. Anyone else do anything like this and know if it will hold up? Hope to get out and try a few in a couple weeks.

The green pumpkin powder paint I use to use was a dull finish. The same brand I use today is a shiny finish. Anyone have any pointers to dull it down, or a brand that is a dull color as apposed to the gloss? Thanks

I figured you were going to have the most problems with the smallest head. Also yes the smallest head has the least lead to hold the hooks in place. Like you mentioned if you want the lead to hold it better, you will have to carve out the mold to get more lead to hold the head, however this will increase the weight of your head. Powder paint will tighten up the heads when the jig is painted and baked. Other than that not many options.

It looks like smoke with small green flake and pepper. Look at FG-1 from Living Rubber:
Of course it may be one of those Internet how you perceive it things as well.
Fishingskirts has clear tabs tabs under the “no flake” section, but they are frequently out...
clemmy

Sup Mike,
Like Bob mentioned epoxy, sharp edges, thickens.....all dont go well together ona bait you cannot modify or adjust. Thus I cannot be much help with expoxy as I do not use it for that application. If you can disassemble that would help and that is how I prefer to TC my baits is by sections.
If it helps here is my method using a dipping or spraying medium as a TC. When I cannot disassemble or its a friends bait I am doing and dont want to take it apart because it usually involves another small hole I use rubber bands. just wrap the rubber bands around the joint using a half hitch to make it nice and tight. It will lock up the joint so it stays straight and protect it from any TC, then I just use an exacto once died and cut them out. works like a charm and pretty easy. I got that tip here probably 10 years ago. Dont go crazy and wrap a ton around.....wrap just enough less is more.