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While the East Coast is shoveling out from snow, we on the West Coast are skiing and snowboarding down the slopes of Lake Tahoe. Thanks for letting us get out of the studio for a few weeks of recreation!

As San Franciscans prepare for Chinese New Year festivities next month, we’re pleased to present you a preview of Spring 2016 and style trends:

Monochromatic white is the dark horse candidate.
Shake off the dark colors associated with winter. March in to the Spring season with confidence. White on white is high-maintenance but looks dapper. Dial it down by pairing a gray custom fit jacket with white tailored trousers.

Find it hard to rock that edgy look in your office or line of work? No problem. Under your discreet coat during your commute, maintain a polished and professional image with this tailor-made striped suit, pictured to the left. The black color remains a safe bet; the higher stripe count adds texture suggesting a depth and complexity to your character.

Bespoke tailoring for men and women is stylish year-round, especially with coat season. We’ve got 5 stylish coats people are excitedly talking about this autumn.

Peacoat
A made to measure classic wool peacoat is as reliable as your best friend. With long lines, it quickly adds sophistication to any wardrobe. Black is always fashionable. This fall don’t leave home without a beige/camel or winter white peacoat. Enjoy those double takes as you make heads turn with the combination of a refreshing color and classic style. Keep warm during your commute — and do it in style! Great over your bespoke pant suits.

Double­ Breasted
The double­-breasted coat with its iconic two-columns of buttons remains trendy with the addition of bright colors as well as traditional cut or style. This season — if attention is what you’re after — stop traffic in red, pumpkin or gold like the color of the falling leaves. Prefer dark basic colors but still want to WOW the public? We like the black and white Alabama houndstooth print. Women enjoy this coat with tailored suits and tall boots. Average and shorter-than-average individuals usually have four buttons; taller people can accommodate six buttons.

Military StyleMilitary style coats are not exclusively for men any longer. Women have adopted the military coat much like the biker jacket. No surprise this outerwear trend is here to stay. It’s coveted for both its form and function. Again darker colors are more common, but The SF Tailor would love the opportunity to fulfill your order for a personalized military coat in a lighter color.

Trench
Pictured left, a classic trench coat NEVER goes out of style. It’s light weight lets you easily transition from fall to winter… and again as winter thaws into spring. Instead of the predictable all ­black ensemble, liven things up. Choose colors that pop such as emerald green. This dandelion gold trench lifts our spirits when the weather is overcast or gloomy. Petite ladies like long black sweaters, leggings and ballet flats.

Duffle Coat
A street-­style staple, the duffle coat can be worn with almost anything during the fall/winter seasons. Women conveniently pair this outerwear item with cream colored custom suits or a casual look with jeans.

The SF Tailor has these hot styles for the cold season, so you look as good at the dance as these suits on the red carpets. Our clients feel confident wearing made to measure suits and customized tuxedos to fit their own swagger — not something generic off carousels from the mall.

Whether your special event is semi-formal (suit OK) or black tie (tux required) you’ll want well-made, affordable clothes you can keep after the occasion. Do you really want to rent? Resent the idea of another person showing up in the exact same outfit?

Men of How to Get Away with Murder in eye-catching electric blue suits.

Black-and-white are so textbook. Blue tuxedos are haute. Prom is your moment. There’s no competition with cobalt blue suits like the men of How to Get Away with Murder can testify in this photo, right. Dapper details include standard notched lapels, black skinny ties — definitely not to be confused with dads’ — and pocket squares to infuse color or print. Tip: don’t button the last button on your jacket!

The SF Tailor doesn’t technically make adaptive clothing for teens with disabilities or different abilities, but we understand some of the challenges and all the desire to look as dashing as everyone else. Before ordering, these style hacks can maximize your assets.

The bottom line is to feel confident from a smart-fitting suit and its first impression, to your interview responses and your performance on the job.

A well-cut suit should flatter your frame by broadening your shoulders and minding your midsection. This signals great job-seeking traits like attention to detail and self-confidence. For any job interview, be sure you are prepared and look polished.

Color consistent with industry? A tailor made medium or dark grey suit looks more youthful than a stark black suit. In fact it’s much more versatile and a great candidate for all of those important appointments — from job interviews to daily office wear to networking events after work. Most of all, it’s still industry appropriate.

We make elegance affordable & job promotion accessible as you pay off loans or mortgages.

Made to measure suits can be pricey. Don’t worry! Without the overhead of a brick and mortar shop or webcam body measurements, we offer the lowest prices in fully personalized suits online.You’ll even have money left to splurge. Book yourself an appointment with the hairdresser, or purchase a tie clip — a small but noticeable accessory to set you apart.

A single-button jacket is more versatile especially with matching grosgrain- or satin-striped tuxedo trousers. (Matching jacket and trousers mean tuxedos are technically two-piece bespoke suits.) Grosgrain has a ribbed texture and dull appearance whereas satin has a rich, smooth and lustrous / shiny look. A shawl lapel is the most stereotypical. Shorter men however like peaked lapels. Lengthened lapels heighten their wearers by drawing more attention to their faces. Notched lapels are the least formal.

A white evening shirt with a wing collar keeps your ensemble classic. Stiffly starched shirts and high standing wing collars were once conventional. Imagine the Victorian collar, or an air filter for your car. Today a wing collar is required for the strictest of White Tie affairs.

We prefer the contemporary turndown collar pleated shirt. The front features a pleated bib in addition to an open or hidden placket of buttons. Understated and more comfortable, it complies with the semi-formal dress code yet appears approachable. That’s a fantastic advantage when you want to network and/or make new acquaintances at such special occasions.

The (butterfly) bow tie is the most traditional, but we recommend a (semi-butterfly) thistle bow tie for a refreshing change. Never buy a pre-tied bow tie! If you didn’t adequately practice those YouTube bow tying videos, a necktie could save you … but choose a width proportional to your lapel and collar.

L to R: black patent slippers, laced oxfords, opera pumps

Finish off the bespoke formal wear with patent leather formal pumps — flat or heeled for women. Don’t happen to own those? Difficult to find them?

Well-polished Oxford dress shoes will get by. But if you prefer to get noticed, velvet will bring more luxury to your custom made suit regardless of grosgrain or satin lapels and trouser stripes.

Most typical accessories are a cummberbund to cover your waist (and any bunching or pooling of the shirt) and suspenders that button inside your trouser waist. Want others to notice your attention to detail? Pick out high contrast colors for a pocket square or a carefully chosen lapel pin to spark conversation.

An odd year means no torture from McCovey Cove, and brides breathing sighs of relief. These women are happily focusing fiances’ attention on winter wedding plans. No World Series widows here!

The SF Tailor has prepped this cheat sheet to understand formal wear if you’re getting married or renewing vows:

When is the main event? The season will suggest ideal fabrics and colors (the lighter, the better in summer or tropical destinations) whereas gray or dark blue wool suits are a winter standard. The time of day also influences your color scheme.

Second left, Prince Henry & mates in colorful morning dress on the day of Kate & Wills’ festive wedding.

Where’s the party? The venue is a significant factor in the formality or casualness of your suit.

Royalty recommends morning dress: a tailcoat, dress shirt with a wing or (modern) turndown collar, a waistcoast or vest, and striped trousers. Pair with polished black Oxford shoes. Play up the color with matching ties and pocket squares. Such formal events are few and far between, so blend separates like shirt, vest or trousers into semi-formal contexts. Evening dress employs a striking black and white contrast: Black tailcoat, uncuffed trousers and patent leather footwear with white dress shirt, waistcoat & bow.

Commonly believed to be the most formal wear, the black tie tuxedo is evening appropriate and the best investment for the range of social events in the U.S. Earlier this month we ran this post on made to measure tuxedos.

Midnight blue or black are equally advisable, and both go well with black Oxfords / Balmorals. Court shoes are slightly more formal. Don’t limit yourself if you want to indulge in color: match your bow tie and cummerbund… even suspenders.

To take the formality down a notch or two, review black tie optional and cocktail attire. These semi-formal dress codes let guests feel slightly more relaxed. Bow tie optional but neckties with dark suits of black, dark grey, or navy still required.

…

Grooms and rules relaxed in less formal lounge suits.

The lounge suit is the least formal and most misleading. Don’t think pink! It is not the tracksuit with matching zip-up jacket and elastic waist pants. You’re preparing for a wedding ceremony, not a wrestling competition.

This laid-back alternative still consists of smart-fitting trousers, a long-sleeved button-down shirt, and a blazer. The casual style lets you contrast classic colors like navy, black and grey with neutral beige or stone. Cotton twill trousers and no need for a matching jacket let you daydream about a beach, winery or farmhouse wedding. Instead of exactly matching the color of your neckwear (bow tie or necktie) and pocket square, choose complementary shades. You might pair with Derby / Blucher shoes instead of Oxfords.

Still have questions or concerns about what to wear for your winter wedding? Our Facebook page features inspiring photos. Or contact us with details about your celebration and we’ll get back to you with suggestions.

Know a diamond in the rough? Perhaps you overcame personal obstacles and want to give a somebody a second chance at life and a career. Rather than donate money this holiday season, sponsor a job applicant with a suit scholarship. The SF Tailor offers the lowest prices in fully custom suits online and delivers within a month.

Smart people with troubled pasts need opportunity. They’re overlooked, so they forget their own value. They lose hope unless they’ve participated in workforce development programs and enterprises like Delancey Street Foundation and Swords to Plowshares, where graduates leave with marketable skills and a future. Charities like St. Anthony’s also try to provide interview and employment apparel — but choices can be limited, especially for clients of larger proportions.

Dani Johnson’s past didn’t anchor her.

Tailor made professional wear continue to build confidence for these men and women who want to thrive at work and in their personal lives. Individuals like Dani Johnson have already overcome a significant amount of adversity, and have potential to earn money, truly thrive at their jobs and become self-sufficient.

Cold hard money is what it is.
On the other hand made to measure suits are worn
as we celebrate new beginnings and milestones
like jobs, promotions, and weddings.

Email us if you’re going to present a custom tailored suit to a well-deserving beneficiary. We’d love to read a brief summary of this individual’s triumph over difficulty and what s/he plans to tackle next.

Try strong, bold stripes not fat stripes f you have a small frame in particular.

Winning if you’ve reached this level in our Basics for Newly Bespokeseries! In this sixth and final section, pattern-mixing will be the most ambitious to master. More risky than matching colors, the rewards add a rich new dimension to your personal style — further elevating your elegance, confidence and influence.

The first rule of pattern and print mixing is express yourself.Vary the size of the pattern but unify with color.

Keep the Same PatternWear checks with checks, or stripes on stripes BUT vary the size or width of the pattern. Mind your stature when choosing a stripe. Beginners test waters with a navy pinstripe suit and a fine striped shirt. A solid or diagonal striped tie pulls such a powerful look together. Birdseye & nailhead offer equally conservative aesthetics as stripes, yet introduce texture. Pair them with flat textures like solid shirts and ties.

Herringbone‘s distinctive V-shaped weave makes for a far more eye-catching suit as the zigzag pattern picks up light. Made to measure suits in this fabric appear to be a solid color from a distance. Upon closer look, the pattern is readily recognizable and reveals sophistication.

The gray color unifies this checkered jacket and striped shirt.

Choose a Recurring ColorThe same rules regarding color still apply. Go ahead and check your notes since this isn’t a closed-book quiz!

Remember any monochromatic combination is a safe bet. Pair two colorful prints or patterns with a common color. We’ve chosen a gray checkered jacket and striped shirt to illustrate our point. It’s moderate… yet pushes the envelope for those who work in legal as well as banking and finance.

If you’ve mastered this and your style slightly stagnates, dare to pair stripes and checks in complementary colors. We strongly recommend this ensemble for summer wedding guests: glen check or plaid suit, blue gingham shirt, even the woven orange tie has a checkered texture.

Try Mixing Three Patterns: All patterns or prints should be relatively close in size. Proportions matter. Attempt the above look but pair with a silk striped necktie instead of a solid textured one. Alternatively select two elements like a violet & white polka dot tie and a lilac gingham shirt, and wed them with a brown pinstripe suit. The patterns achieve fashion zen based on a split-complementary color code.

In business, there’s a lot to be said for understated elegance. Clothes ought to make you look smart and increase your professional credibility. In part 5 of 6 in the Basics for Newly Bespoke, we’ll show you how matching colors can maximize the ROI on custom made suits.

Stick to the same color family BUT change the shades for a more subtle look. A monochromatic look lengthens people with shorter dimensions; just don’t choose black because you’ll seem shorter.

Slightly more daring are analogous colors, giving you room to experiment. You may be surprised to learn how classic bordeaux and blue is. A subconscious visual effect blends these colors so people almost sense a decadent purple and they feel at ease. This versatile combination is great with brown or black shoes. The vibrancy of burgundy is a nice lift for cold winter months when we feel blue and gray.

Choose complements. A bold orange tie against this blue suit creates a focal point , so you cannot be ignored.

When you choose opposites or complementary colors, people actually feel at harmony and experience a wealth of choice and creative opportunity. Employ this strategy to call attention to layers and complexity to your wardrobe. Remain classy without boredom.

Split-complementary is a minor variation. Instead of choosing two colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel, select three colors — one color and two more colors that neighbor the direct opposite. The resulting ensemble is more visual interesting without disturbing the peace.

On the other hand a triadic selection stimulates a strong visual contrast. Choosing three colors equally distant on the wheel still retains a balance eyes and minds crave.

Tetradic is the most challenging color strategy. Rarely executed well, it can look noisy because two sets of complementary colors are employed — not just one! Pick a dominant color. This alpha – color subdues the rest and speaks volumes about your leadership, not confusion.

A word of warning: black is too stark for day wear. Further it can make people of smaller stature seem shorter. Brown is more casual, and not appropriate for mainstream business environments. Apart from these boundaries, you have a wide array of colors to shape your personal style from.

Following Part 1 (intro) 2 (measurements) and 3 (styles) we pair shirts and ties in Part 4 of what you need to know if you’re new to bespoke suits online: Every professional wardrobe ought to have a classic white dress shirt and a blue oxford shirt. Beyond that, take calculated risks and let your confidence shine through your unique pairing of shirts and ties. For instance CHUNKY ties, not skinny ties, now suggest a more youthful look. Meanwhile knit ties, slightly retro and becoming popular again, are casual.

When you walk into a room, your shirt and tie are a powerful focal point.
So how do you ante up? Got a license to kill in your shirt & tie?

We chose single-breasted jackets because they’re versatile, so you can focus on color combos. Use a color wheel if you’re a maverick at matching solid colors. The tie should be richer in color than the shirt. When it effectively creates a nice contrast, it draws positive attention to your face. Good eye contact leads to better communication.

Next, experiment with a polka dot tie against a standard blue shirt — or vice versa as Joseph Gordon-Levitt sports this marine blue satin tie against a sea of white and burgundy. Blue and red make a classic (complementary) color combo especially in winter, when everybody else wears gray and black.

Accent your fashion with striped and checkered shirts. These patterns aren’t classics per se, but most have one or two of these shirts in their closet. Blue stripes are the most common.

Right photo: We’ve chosen a lilac stripped shirt to highlight the same light purple color in the necktie. Keep patterns minimal till you’ve mastered patterns. We’ll talk more about prints in part 5. Note how the brushed steel tie clip brings the tie and light gray suit together. The length of the clip should be 3/4 the width of the tie.