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Thursday, 19 April 2012

It's Your Band Size, And Your Choice

You might have noticed me mentioning in recent posts that
I’ve started including 30 bands in my possible sizes. That’s not because my
measurements have changed but because I had a realization, one that felt a bit
mischievous at first: I don’t have to
wear a 28 band if I don’t want to.

I’ve been wearing one for the past few seasons because it
matches my measurement (28 inches around the underbust) and I didn’t want to
risk having back pain or other problems from wearing a too-loose band. But I
hadn’t had many problems with 30 bands before that, unless they ran unusually
loose, and I had a host of new problems with 28 bands—painful underwires, sharp
edges cutting in, and that weird constricted feeling that comes from wearing something
very tight for hours. So I recently decided to do a small trial of wearing 30
bands again. I figured if it didn’t work, I would go straight back to 28s, but
ultimately, the 30 bands were a success for me based on the criteria I had
chosen. The way I see it, there are
three important tests for whether the band size you are wearing is too big:

First of all, and I’m sure you’ve all heard this before, but
your bra band should not ride up. It
should sit horizontally around your body. However, it’s important to note
that a few bras have bands that just sit that way, angled a bit up, so they
look like they are riding up when they are actually the right size or even too
small. This is one of the most annoying things ever in my opinion, because it
makes it difficult to distinguish between a correct or too-big band, hence why
I’m mentioning two other tests.

Second, if you have
back pain at the end of the day from your boobs, definitely try a smaller band.
It might not solve the problem, in which case you need not bother to size down,
but if it does help, you owe it to yourself to wear the smaller size.

Third, if you have to
readjust your boobs a lot throughout the day, that’s a sign that something may
be amiss with your size. Ideally, a well-fitting bra should stay more or
less in place—you shouldn’t feel like you are constantly tucking and pulling.
If you are, you may need to reevaluate what size you should wear. It could be
that you need to change your cup size, or it could be that you need to wear a
tighter band.

If you don’t have these problems with a slightly larger band
size, though, I personally feel that you should choose the band that feels most
comfortable, which may not necessarily be the tighter one. For me, I had a lot
of comfort issues with 28 bands, so I’m moving away from them. Of course, I was
never a small 28, and this is just my experience—I’m not suggesting that people
abandon their sizes willy-nilly on my advice. I just don’t want people to feel trapped in a band size that is only
best for them in theory. I have met some people with larger underbust
measurements who prefer to subtract inches from their measurement to get the
most comfortable band size, and I think that it’s also okay to add a couple of
inches if that is the most comfortable option and if it is still equally
supportive.

I’m pretty convinced
that it’s not a good idea to add more than 2 inches to your measurement to get
your band size, nor would most people have success subtracting more than
that, but again, I’m sure there are some exceptions and outliers to this rule
of thumb. Only you can decide what feels
most comfortable for you. Just be informed about the right and wrong
reasons to wear a band size slightly bigger than your measurements. For
instance, no bra fitter in a store should
encourage you to add inches—especially not the standard, pathetic American
system of adding up to SIX inches. It is your right to decide to add inches,
but MOST people will fare best in a band size that is close to their
measurements.

I also don’t think
it’s a good idea to make the choice to upsize just because of increased options
in larger band sizes, although I understand why some people might find this
a massive relief. Wearing a 30 band, I have many, many more options than
wearing a 28 band, but that isn’t reason enough to size up in the band. If I
was uncomfortable in the 30 band, all the options in the world wouldn’t mean
anything--because all of them would cause me pain. Upsizing just so you can
find something in shops, when you wouldn’t do so otherwise, means you are being
bullied by the companies and inadvertently voting for the wrong sizes with your
wallet.

However, you also shouldn’t feel that you need to wear the
smallest possible band size if you are actually more comfortable in one size
up. The best method is to take some time to experiment and try out a few
different sizes. Most people will still find they are most comfortable in a
band size that nearly matches their measurements, but trust your own
instincts—if you’ve tried all the sizes you can (and that means more than just
the ones available on the high street), you’ll know which one is best.

40 comments:

This is interesting timing when it comes to my bra band choices, because I've started experimenting with 32 bands. I measure 29 so I should easily fit a 30 band, but I find that a lot are too tight and that the eyes on the closure start getting pulled out of the band. Realising that, I started looking at 32 bands. Unfortunately, unless it's a firm 32 it's too loose for me. Because of those two points, I have to swing between 30 and 32 depending on the brand and style of bra.

I find your three points interesting because the first two are invalid (I think) for me. I've never noticed a band riding up my back in my life and I used to wear 34s. I think that's possibly because I loathe shoulder pain so much that I'd have the straps loose to the point of falling off, so I really have no idea what kept my bra on my body. It certainly didn't hold my boobs up.

The second point doesn't affect me because I only experience boob-related pain if I run. Walking or other moving about doesn't bother me and my boobs certainly aren't heavy enough to give me back pain.

The third point is the pinnacle of my struggles with bras before discovering a 30 band. My underwires used to slide left and right whenever I moved, making me super conscious that I was wearing a bra and very uncomfortable.

All my rambling aside, I am glad to see this post. It's good to see advice to not swing too far in the opposite direction to +4 and then struggle in bras that are too tight for your ribcage.

Have you tried extenders? These are small bits of band fabric with hooks and eyes in the same locations as the bras and they can extend the band by a few centimetres. You can get them from most haberdashery locations and they only cost a few dollars. I swear by them as they make my bra just that bit more comfortable without having to go up a size into a nonexistant or extremely expensive size. [I need a larger band but smaller cup size]

I just wanted to thank you for this reply. I am a 43 year old mom. size 12 (40-32-42). I measure at a 33DD and wear a 34DD. but, the bands are usually tight. if I go up a size the bras don't fit well. when i came accross the note about thying the bra extender... well, first I though, duh, then i wanted to let you know what a life saver you are... and, I actually had one that i had never used.... thank you, thank you, thank you... i am sitting here in comfort now

Personally, I *wish* I could fit into 30 bands, but all the times I've tried them at all recently have proven to me that I just can't wear them. Back and shoulder pain galore! I'm generally much more comfortable in 28's, but then again, I'm a "small" 28.

So I guess I'm a bit opposite... sometimes I try to wear 30's when I really need to stick with 28's in almost all cases. It goes either way - wear what's most comfortable for you!

Thank you so much for posting this! Since I changed size after having children – I went from a 32E to a 32GG (for a while to 32H which I sometimes still need) - I have been trying to read up on blogs like this one to get information on sizing and products. There are no good stores in my area, I order my bras online from the UK (so I have to pay international postage+returns) and have mostly had to fit myself. You and a lot of your fellow bloggers have been a great help in this, you are doing a brilliant job informing about bra fitting and product reviews!

Recently however some things that I have read - not so much in your blog as on others - have made me start questioning my band size. I measured myself (and converted from centimeters ;) and my under-bust measure is 29 inches, so according to some of what I had read lately I was starting to wonder whether I should be wearing a 30 band instead.

To add to my confusion I had only just started to figure british/international bra sizing for bigger cups out. Before having children I wore a size 32E (UK and US sizing), 70E (european) or 85E (french). That is, this is the size I wore if I could find it. Otherwise I wore a 75D/34D/90D, because that size was a lot easier (and cheaper) to find and since my boobs were smaller than now I could get away with less support. In centimeters the band size always made sense – my measurement in centimeters was always between 70 and 75 centimeters so it was always a question of rounding up (75D) or down (70E), never ever of adding anything or using some such method.

I have never even tried a 30 band bra on and was starting to wonder if I should, but after reading your post I feel more comfortable trusting my own judgement and to keep wearing my size 32 bands. I rarely have problems with pain or discomfort from my bras, and it saddens me to hear so many women having to put up with such things.

To me it is, and always has been a matter of fit. I believe that the bras should be changed, made good enough, not the women! Unlike many of you out there I was actually fortunate enough never to have to wear a really badly fitting bra. My mother – despite having worn an AA cup herself throughout her teens – was wise enough to get me to a really good bra store really early, who had the expertise to put me in good bras in the right sizes from the start. Which means that I have been wearing good bras for more than two decades by now (I am 37), and thought I would know what I should be looking for. I am a tough bra customer, just like many of you bra bloggers seem to be, I want it all; I want support, but not to feel constricted, and I want my bras both to give a good shape under clothes and to look pretty without them.

I buy as many bras as I can afford and I always have, I see it as an investment in my self esteem and health. Right now it is a vital part of learning to live with, even love, the body I have after having two children. Oh, and for those of you not having had children yet, don't worry. I think pregnancy and nursing can even be kinder on the bodies of us curvy ones. My main issue has been having so much bigger boobs (bigger, fuller, but still quite firm - despite all the scary stories you hear about boobs after breastfeeding) which has taken a while to get used to. In a way kind of like a second puberty, which I am sure that many busty women out there can relate to…

I definitely think going by the most comfortable, supportive & flattering fit is better than getting stuck on a number/measurements.

However, I'll echo Contrary Kiwi about the "signs" of too-big-a-band not always being there for all women. This is especially true of small-to-medium busted women wearing the wrong size. The breasts are not heavy enough to cause back pain or to pull the cups down so that the band rides up. Instead, bras just sort of "float" around the body, with the cups amounting to nipple covers. This is also also why small-busted women will wear too small cups - the bra already feels very loose & you can't imagine anything large making sense.

Personally, I am somewhat broad-shouldered & would wear my straps comfortable loose, so that's likely why my old 32 band bras did not ride up a lot. They DID ride up, but not enough to be a telling sign (I didn't see they rode up until I tried a 28 band bra & noted the difference).

I knew I was wearing too big a band because1) My boobs would fall out the bottom of my bras - the underwire would not stay under my bust because the band was too loose (and the cups were too small). Padded push-ups can obscure this issue as they create a sort of shelf inside the cup, despite the underwire just barely grazing the skin & not coming near to encasing the breast tissue. These bras are heavily marketed to smaller busted women as the most flattering, convincing them the issue is being too small chested, when really a well-fitted bra without padding can do a lot more for them.2) Lots of MOVEMENT. Small boobs bounce & jiggle too, but it's not painful, so many smaller-busted women probably just think that's "normal". I'm amazed now when I put on an old bra how loose & non-functional it is compared to how firm & stable my bust feels in the right size (I can walk swiftly without bounce now!).3) The center gores never lay flat, which is more about the cups, but a good sign of a bad fit, period. I knew the cups were too small by that sign, but the whole bra felt loose, so I put the two together & realized it was the band that was too big.4) Pulling/pinching the band. If you can pinch more than an inch of the band in the back & it's on the smallest hook, then it's probably too big.

Thank you for this post. I have a 29 underbust measurement and am wearing 28 and 30 bands. I only started wearing bras recently because I realized I had some breast migration. I used to think perky breasts didn't need bras. I'm really glad to get your perspective on this!

What a great post! My underbust measurement is 26.5" with the air expelled from my lungs, but I'm happiest in a 30 band in nearly every brand I've tried (I wear an F cup). The glaring exception is Freya, in which I always, always need a 28FF. Has anyone else found this with Freya? I find it ironic Freya's celebrated 28 is actually (to me) a 30 in disguise.

I think that a lot of the difference in band preferences lies in the amount of "give" in the band measurement, and I'm surprised not to have seen the subject discussed on fitting blogs. Is it just taboo to mention the "squidge effect"? I have a bony ribcage with no 'squidge' to speak of (my weight resides in the thighs, sigh). But my friend, who also wears a 30 band, has a little bit of 'squidge' that her bra band must displace to get a snug fit. Despite wearing the same band, of course our underbust measurements aren't the same!

I think this explains my bra fitting preferences too!! My underbust measurement is usually between 29 and 30 inches, but I can't even get a 30 fastened. I, too, have a very bony ribcage with hardly any give, though. With the exception of Freya and a few other brands that either run big or are extra stretchy, I usually prefer a 34 and don't have any problems with them riding up or not being supportive enough. My Freya strapless is even a 34 because it runs tight enough compared to their other bras that I feel like I can't breathe in a 32.

Agree with your points, I'd just like to mention that if a style of bra doesn't suit you (too wide or narrow underwires for example) it's possible to be in the correct size and still feel as though your breasts are moving around too much and you have to readjust.

You raise some good points. I measure 26" in my underbust. I've been wearing a 28FF that fits well, although the band could perhaps be a little tighter. I really want to try a 26 band bra to see how it fits, but they're really hard to come by. I could special-order, but then there's no guarantee a 26 band would fit better and a custom order might be non-returnable.

I totally agree! Really there are a lot of factors that go into band size, but I think that the old "two fingers" saw is useless today when bra bands are so stretchy. My criteria for band size are that it should stay put and be comfortable. The underbust measurement is a place to start, but not the end of bra fitting.

Unfortunately I have found that a band can be the right SIZE, but if it is too narrow, it still will move around too much. My boobs are too heavy to be really well-supported by a two-hook band: they will start sliding down in the front and I will have to drag the bra back up.

I have seen some people saying that you should wear the tightest band you can possibly fit into. I tried that for awhile but it just doesn't work for me.

Been having a nightmare since discovering my usual 32C no longer fits. Took myself off to Debenhams to be told I'm 30DD, fair enough I thought, off I went and got a couple nice Marks and Spencers bras.

Oh my god, soooooooooooooo uncomfortable and tight. I thought they might give a bit, but I don't think I can put up with them. I'm also sick of shop assistants saying well thats your size sort of thing. The thing is as well, I suffer from acid sometimes and am not supposed to wear things to tight.

So, what do I do? Anybody know any 32 bands that are on the tighter side? Thes ones I've tried are way too loose, so neither the band or the cups fit. Argh! lol

That sounds brilliant. I've also been asking if bravissimo on twitter if they would be able to help via email. It certainly helps knowing which bands are looser/tighter.

The 32D's I've tried in M&S and debenhams aren't a good fit at all, way too loose on the bands so the D cup doesn't fit right either. Argh! Yet my M&S 32C's from a couple of years ago fit nicely on the band, just that the cups too small now. I'm sure the bra sizing has been properly tweaked in there.

This post is so timely for me! As a fitter, I always struggle with telling people what to do with their bra size. I try to always give them a starting point (for size) and my first question after putting a new bra on them is "how does this feel to you?" - its important for me to remember that its not me wearing the bra, so my feelings on how tight/loose something is only count for so much. I can try to show them options that I feel will be supportive, comfortable, and flattering - but I never want to put someone in something so tight that it is uncomfortable. I personally like a more snug fit on my own bras, but like I said, I'm not the one wearing their bra - and I hate sending people away with bras that they will not love and wear.

Confession: I sometimes buy too-large bands because of increased options. However, I have a sewing machine and can take the bands in (when I'm not too lazy).

But I get a lot of crap from people about wearing a 32 (I measure 31 and some fitters have even suggested I try a 30) because it's "too tight" (having back fat does not mean a band is too tight), but if I wear a 34, the bra slides up my back and I have terrible back pain. In some bras, a 30 fits better... and in some exceptionally tight bands (Masquerade Rhea), a 34 is better. What matters isn't the number, it's how the bra fits. So long as the bra is supporting you, the size on the tag doesn't matter.

That being said, a lot of people prefer unsupportive bras because the band is "comfortable"... but by "comfortable", they mean they can't feel the band because it's barely touching them. A band shouldn't be so tight as to cause pain, but it is the part of the bra that is doing the supporting, so it can't be too loose. I thought my 34 bands were "comfortable", until I tried a 32FF that actually gave me support.

This is such a great post and really made me think about those too tight they are so uncomfy 30DD bras I was put into in Debenhams.

Since then, I have had some sort of success with a Freya Lauren, the first 30 band that actually fit quite nicely and was comfortable instead of OMG I can't actually breathe! However the cups on this weren't quite right, not sure why, maybe not quite the right style on me. Hmm.

Also have contacted Bravissimo via email for advice and I now have a lovely long detailed set of questions to fill in to email back to them. I'm really looking forward to what they have to advise :)

These were some great tips for real-life band-size testing. I've made some lists for myself that involve more precision, but you've made generalizations that I can use when helping friends in the real world. I love it!

I tried going back up to a 32 band when I realized that nothing was available for my cup in a 30. Just as you might have thought, it didn't work out well for my back. I was in pain for days after trying to make a go of a 32.

I need to remember my own rules and take your advise too. Go with what's comfortable and don't get bogged down my numbers.

I have the opposite Problem since I found out my band is too loose. I got fitted from 34E /36DD to 32GG/H. But with those new bras my back pain wont go away. I also had some weird issues with my new bras and I couldn't find out what was wrong. They wont really fit. But since I got fitted in a store and paid a awful lot of money for my new bras I thought they should fit! But now after reading various blogs I came to the conclusion that I probably should wear a smaller band. (your post at the Venusian Glow Blog was very helpful) My underbust measurement is 30inch / 76cm (unsnug) 28inch / 71cm (snug) so that means I should wear a 28 / 30 band? Now I have no Idea what Cup Size I should wear in these bands. HH, J, JJ, K ??? How do I find out? I have a Princess that fits somehow in 30HH.

Interesting post, I've just found your blog and have been going through old posts as well as new. I especially enjoy that you always make your choices or ideas clear with practical, relatable and measurable details so that it's easy to compare and use the information/review/etc.

I've been wearing 28 band bras for the last decade now as the choice is getting better, but I still remember the first time I found a 30 band bra, and the relief of trying on something that, althought it didn't fit, actually touched my ribcage, not the top of my shoulderblades as with the 32s. I'm thrilled that the choice in 28 band still gets better by the year (even though the bands are getting very stretchy).

I've not as of yet been in your situation with the 28 vs. 30, though, so I can't really imagine that kind of discomfort. My ribcage measures 24", and I've never seen or tried a 26 band bra, let alone a 24, but I'm looking at Ewa M at the moment. In my experience, it's quite possible to live with the looser option, but I would switch to something tighter in a blink (anyone got a UK 26J or 24JJ around?), I can feel and see every day that what I'm wearing is wrong. I'm thinking that wearing a bra that actually fits, might be a bit like wearing pantyhose. Has to fit properly to look decent, is perfectly comfortable and nice to wear, but even though it has felt lovely on all day, it's still always a relief to take it off at the end of the day. I want that kind of feeling when I take off my bra. :)

Hi, could you help me out as I've been struggling to fit my bra size after putting on weight then losing weight...

I can fit well into a Bali Underwire Minimzer in 34E, however the band is too loose (even when i use the inner most clasp when the bra is new). If I were to take a bra band 32, do I have to increase my cup size to F?

Likewise, a Wacol strapless 34E is too loose for me for the bra band (i.e. it rides up even when I use the inner most clasp when the bra is new) and my breasts spill out at the sides (i.e. side boobs) as the band is too loose. And when I manage to arrange that my breasts can fit nicely in the cup, there is spillage over the cup (i.e. a slight four boobs effect).

Lastly, I can fit into a Panache CLEO Lucy Balconnet (34E) which feels very tight for the chest and too chest binding for my breast (i.e. the fabric for the cups cut into my skin). The centre portions cuts into my skin and so did the underwire.

My measurements are:Underbust - 28"Overbust - 34"

I live in Asia and it's hard to get E cups and above, and likely have to shop online. Does the bra sizes across different international brands vary greatly? Many thanks :)

If your underbust measurement is 28, you will probably want to try a 28 or 30 band--32 at the most. You will get used to the tightness of the band quickly and it will really improve the fit overall. The most important part is finding cups that properly fit you. It will be hard to tell from the 34-band bras what will fit you in a 30-band, just because the band can also change the fit of the cups if it is too big. Based on your measurements I would normally suggest trying a 30DD or 30E, but since you say that the 34E Cleo Lucy felt tight, I wonder if you might want to start with a higher cup size--a 30F or 30FF. If at all possible, order a bunch of different sizes in the same bra (maybe 30E, 30F, 30FF, 30G) and find your best fit in that one bra--then you can base your best fit in other bras off how they compare to that bra in reviews online.

As to your question about cup sizes changing with band sizes, yes! If you go down a band size, you will need to go up a cup size to get the same cup volume. So a 34E has the same cup volume as a 32F and a 30FF.

Good luck with your bra quest! Remember that in this early stage, every piece of information you get on what fits you will be useful. So even if you try a lot of bras that don't fit, they will still help lead you toward the bras that will fit--and it will always keep getting easier.

I have been reading this blog with a fine tooth comb as well as some others very closely as I am determined to find the correct size. I recently was in NYC and went to get fitted at a shop that specializes in difficult sizes. I had to order an Elomi Caitlyn 34J as they did not have one in the shop to buy. I have been wearing it for about a month and it maybe one of my best fitting bras. The issue is the underwire is way past my underarm. I measure under bust 32.25 and over bust 44 or 45. My other decent fitting bra is an empriente thalia 34H which does not give me quad boob but I think may be too small in the cup. I have a short torso and close set high boobs. All advice welcome.

Thank you so much for this post! I have a sub-26" ribcage, and prefer a 30 band. I have experienced some downright rudeness from people who believe that your band size should be no larger than your underbust measurement. Although it was wonderful to discover the world of under-32 bands, it's also important to remember that the entire point of a bra is to feel comfortable -- not to conform to any one method of bra fitting.

Thanks for this! I've been reading about small band sizes lately, and it's been making me doubt my band size. My underbust measures 71cm/28"... I can reduce that measurement by 1" or even 1.5", but only by forcing that residual air out of my lungs, and I can't sustain that, so as far as I'm concerned the measurement is 28. I store my spares on my belly, so when I measure 28" it's skin over ribs.

I wear an Aus10D (US32D if the conversion charts are accurate) and it doesn't ride up at all (I start on the middle hook, and move to the tighter one when the bra gets old). Just as well, because I don't think I've ever seen a band size 8.

Then some websites advise to measure over the bust, under the armpits, to get band size. If I do that, I get 81cm/32", so it works for me but I don't see how that can be reliable, because there's already boob there (I'm 149cm/4'10.5" and my boobs are full up top as well).

So, surely it's simplest for everyone to try sizes and find out what fits in practice, instead of endlessly messing around with tape measures and numbers and conversion charts! :)

Update: I've since bought two 30E's from Brastop and they fit reasonably well. Yeah, the bands are better... most days. They're tight enough to bother my xiphisternum (mine's weird and clicks around) on my water retention-y days, so I wouldn't even try a 28.

Note: The 10D's I have are all "Berlei Barely There"s (I love them) and their bands run small-ish.

Update: I've since bought two 30E's from Brastop and they fit reasonably well. Yeah, the bands are better... most days. They're tight enough to bother my xiphisternum (mine's weird and clicks around) on my water retention-y days, so I wouldn't even try a 28.

Note: The 10D's I have are all "Berlei Barely There"s (I love them) and their bands run small-ish.

This is a very informative post! I just found out at a bra fitting that I should be wearing a 30 band size. I don't even know where to begin to shop for a band size that small. Does any one have any tips or suggestions??

Online shopping is definitely the easiest way to find small bands if you're in the US. Try Figleaves, Bravissimo, and Brastop for starters. All those sites will allow you to search by bra size and see what's available!

Hey, I know this is an old post, but: I've bought some 30's from Brastop. Full return or exchange available (only return shipping at your expense) as long as the tags are still on, so you can wear them for a few hours to see how they fit.

Can't get 30's (AUS 8's) in Australia either, unless you're after an 8A (not that there's anything wrong with that size, but a lot of women fit a 30, and few of them are an A-cup).

I normally measure 42, so naturally I went for 42 bands. People say plus sized can size down because larger bands are stretchy. Yes, they are stretchy, and should be, because when a fat person sits down, their belly "ride up" making the underbust much larger. I measure 45+ sitting down! I'm always confronted to try a 40 band, and I ordered one...but I also ordered a 44. I don't need the bands to be so tight. I often go braless for crying out loud...(shallow DD/E cup)

I sort of have the opposite problem,but am figuring it out by measuring not only ribcage when I stand,sit,breathe,wear a bra,etc,but by measuring the stretched band measurement.For me it needs to be tight enough to compress my squish (lol),so that the bra can anchor firmly enough so I don't get back pain from too loose of a band,but it needs enough give in the fabric in order to stretch to a certain measurement.I think how the band fabric is really plays into what size you will need.I measure 37" underbust in a bra that I have to wear on the tightest hooks and that after a few wears,even on the tightest hooks,I will have about an inch or two too loose.So I think I need a band that's around 36.5" stretched somewhat,but that goes up to 40" stretched.But not like...stretched where it's going to break.lol.That is my measurement sitting wearing this bra and inhaling.Sitting up straight exhaled it's 38".This bra measures 32" unstretched and stretches up to 41-42",so it looks my analysis is right.This will be helpful for figuring out what band size to order from the measurements on Bratabase,since bras can vary so much in how they stretch.

My underbust is something like.. 26" so I definitely should be wearing a 28, but it's just so rare to find them offline and honestly, 30s fit pretty snug and comfy. I felt a bit like I was doing something wrong until I read your post.