At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists California Suppliers’ Day, Botaneco (booth 305) is displaying prototype formulas that contain ingredients most consumers will readily understand. The company offers solutions to produce sunscreen-containing formulation chassis with a cleaner label than conventional methods using CapSol sunscreen oleosomes, a natural, multifunctional sun care encapsulation and delivery system that facilitates UV filters and moisturization benefits in a skin-friendly profile.

“More consumers than ever before want a sunscreen-containing formula they can use every day with confidence,” said Kathy Mish, marketing manager, Botaneco. “And for most consumers, that means a formula with ingredients on the label that support a skin-friendly product.”

CapSol sunscreen oleosomes are 100% natural, complex organelles of safflower seeds approximately 1 to 3 microns in size and contain oleosin proteins, a phospholipid membrane, and triacylglycerol, components that nourish the skin, and at the same time, significantly reduce the amount of actives necessary to obtain stable SPF formulas.

Leveraging nature’s technology, Botanco embeds a minimum of UVA and UVB filter inside the triglyceride core, and on the outer shell. Microscopic examinations of the sunscreen-containing oleosomes indicate that the organelle holds the UV filters securely on the surface, and in small oil droplets stabilized within the emulsion.

“This provides the basis for skin-friendly, high SPF formulas with approximately 80% less organic UV filter than conventional commercial products,” said Mish.

All four sun care chassis on display contain a minimum of UV filters necessary to achieve SPF targets, including an SPF 30 formula with mineral UV filters, and three formulas (SPF 15, 30 and 50) containing organic UV filters. The chassis' are both straightforward and elegant, containing low levels of actives and thickeners to fulfill a clean label product profile with consumer-desirable skin feel.

CapSol oleosomes emulsify up to three times its weight in oils and may load up to 30% of its weight in oil-soluble actives.

Recently, it was reported that for certain kinds of sun care systems that employ oil body (oleosome) based formulations, a UV absorbance testing technique was shown to have an extremely accurate correlation to clinical SPF measurements.

“The sun care formulations with as much as 80% less sun care actives worked as well as standard commercial products,” said Mish.

A technical poster recently published by Botaneco, entitled, “Examination of UVB-Induced Inflammation and UVB Protection in an In Vitro Tissue Model Assay” expands upon these results. Specifically, the testing results employ human reconstructed tissue models [Mattek Epiderm] to examine the effects of two formulations previously tested clinically at SPF 30.

“The influence of UVB radiation to upregulate various well-established inflammatory markers was investigated,” said Vince Gruber, Botaneco’s chief innovation officer, and lead author of the study. “The experimental SPF 30 product contains 80% less sun care actives than the commercial sun care product, but worked just as effectively to block UVB,” he said.

For more information about the study, and to request formulas containing CapSol sunscreen oleosomes, visit Botaneco at the California Suplliers’ Day, booth 305, or on the web at botaneco.com