Introducing: Escorial Tweed

*Stock update: oatmeal and green are now sold out, brown is still available. Oatmeal is being rewoven and will be ready at the end of September. Please email [email protected] to get first access to the oatmeal.*

Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket?

Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying range of materials and colours.

Indeed, I’ve been told by a couple of mills that ‘oatmeal’ has become a popular category in recent years, which I like to think is partly driven by my recommendation.

The cloths I recommend to readers - in answer to that question - usually have a few things in common:

1. They’re muted and subtle, making them suitable for professional wear as well as casual;

2. They’re dark or light enough to wear with grey trousers (by far the most popular trouser colour);

3. They have some surface detail in either colour or weave, to separate them clearly from the trousers (and add some interest);

4. They don’t have big checks or other patterns, which makes them versatile enough to work with a plain shirt, and support a brightly patterned one;

5. And they’re practical. Not necessarily a hairy tweed but not delicate cashmere either - something that will last well

There are some options like this every season from the mills. But I rarely find a set together, and after a few months they're gone, never to return (like that oatmeal).

So I thought it would be useful - and certainly fun - to develop a small selection myself.

I decided to work with Joshua Ellis, who are probably the premier mill for luxury jacketings in the UK. I spent a good long time in the archive, with my criteria above. And I came up with a cloth and weave I absolutely loved, in three versatile colours: oatmeal, brown and green.

This is the result. I’m extremely proud of it, and love the little I’ve been able to wear it over the summer months. It will be a staple come Autumn.

Escorial is a very rare wool restrictedto a few flocks of sheep in Australia and New Zealand. Its name comes from the original flock that was owned by Spanish royalty, and exported to Australia before dying out at home.

More importantly, though, are Escorial’s properties. First, it feels like cashmere but wears like wool: it’s wonderfully soft to the touch, but stronger and more robust than cashmere, and so better suited to a long-lasting jacket.

And it has two unique characteristics, which are its breathability and natural stretch, both created by the fibre’s natural curls. The stretch is akin to elastane or a similar synthetic: the jacket I’m wearing feels almost more like a chunky sweater than a piece of tailoring.

The weave

Next choice - the yarn and the weave. How would we introduce enough texture or colour variation without being over the top?

My favourite tweeds are usually from Harris, with their distinctive colour variation in the yarn. The colours are subtle, but distinctive: somehow both sophisticated and playful.

So when I found an archive piece at Joshua Ellis with a similar variation in cashmere, I jumped at it. This was a dark, soft brown, but with shades of orange and yellow in it that reminded me of Harris tweed.

So we used the same colours and finish, just in Escorial wool. The finish was particularly important, as the washing is what causes the fibres to burst and come to the surface, mixing the colours and giving the cloth a lofty, airy feel.

The only other change we made was to add texture more by using a thicker yarn (three ply) and a weave called a Russian twill - basically a tiny herringbone.

One lovely result of this is that the resulting weight (400g, 14oz) exaggerates the properties of the Escorial. It feels even softer and stretchier.

The colours (three)

Last, but perhaps most important question: what colours would we do?

Well, I always say that the two dominant colours in casual jacket cloths are brown and green. The problem is that these are usually quite strong and bright. So we would do more muted, urban versions.

And I had to add oatmeal, because it’s proved so popular with readers and I’ve found it so personally useful. It remains, for me, the best colour after navy for a business jacket.

The brown was the one we found in the archive; the green is the same as that Drake’s collab (as there was such good feedback on it too); and the oatmeal was a close replication of my Caliendo jacket.

So that made a capsule collection of three.

All of which work in a modern office; all of which go with grey trousers, whether flannel or high-twist; and all of which are strong enough to work with other trouser colours they don’t match - so beige, green and brown.

Frankly, I know a lot of readers that could do with all three, if they don’t have something similar already.

How to buy

The only downside of using so much Escorial is that cloth is expensive. It costs £165 a metre (with local currency prices set in euros, pounds and dollars by Joshua Ellis) - and that’s with me taking a lower margin than normal retail, as I do with most things we sell.

There’s also not a lot of it. Neither I nor Joshua Ellis could afford to put too much into stock. But then, if it sells out we’ll make some more next year. This is not just for Christmas.

We had to do it that way because the cloth has to be cut to order. I can sell set lengths of shirting on the Permanent Style shop, but if I did that with Escorial there'd be a lot of expensive wastage.

So you can order through the Joshua Ellis website, and request how much you need in units of 10cm. I need 2.1m for a single-breasted jacket, but it will vary with your size. Always safest to check with the tailor.

We also have a limited number of sample cards, with swatches of the three colours. If you would like one you can also do so through the Joshua Ellis site. There is a small charge that is refundable if you ever place an order.

If you want to send the cloth straight to a tailor, by the way, that is also possible (and saves on shipping twice).

Just put them down as the delivery address - but with your name - and please let them know it’s coming, to avoid any confusion.

Any questions, please let me know. As ever, it’s with a little swell of pride that this special cloth goes out into the world. Treat it well.

Jacket pictured on me, made by Sartoria Zizolfi. Oatmeal pictured in basted fitting, being made for Chris by Prologue Hong Kong. Images of the green being made up will follow.

Samples of the cloth will also be available to see (and touch) at the Permanent Style Presents pop-up from September 10.

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That’s quite a nice offer. Unfortunately I already have a brown and a green Sportcoat. But as you say these are not sharp enough for formal occasions like a nice dinner. Oatmeal might be my next choice, but I’m not sure yet, if it will go with my skin tone. Why did you choose not to offer a navy one?

Simon this is excellent! I have never had an escorial jacket so I am primarily interested in its performance qualities. I am someone who travels wearing a jacket (I can never manage to fold them properly and the bins in airplanes aren’t always clean, plus it’s nice to have a layer) so how does the material deal with creases? If you were setting out to buy all three in which colour order would you do it? How are you fining the brown zizolfi jacket, would you use the same tailor again for this cloth? Sorry to bombard you with questions like this, but I think this may be the most exciting thing on the PS shop yet.

PS I really like the brown jacket, pink shirt, green tie combination in the photo above. All the colours are muted (as you like) yet it somehow feels brighter than what you usually wear, which is quite nice.

It’s good with creases I find, Nick. Because it’s quite spongey there are no hard creases, and being wool helps too.
If I had no similar jackets, I’d buy brown first. In general I think it’s marginally the most versatile.
I might use Zizolfi again, yes, but that wouldn’t relate to the cloth at all – I would say just use the tailor you like the style of most.

No worries on all the questions, do send any more you have. And so pleased you like the idea so much.

I was about to place an order but got confused by Joshua Ellis´s pricing. I am based in the US and their website shows $221 a metre, which is around 10% more than the £165 you quote as including VAT (which naturally it shouldn´t for non EU purchases). Note that their website natively displays prices in dollars (at least to me it does) and even when adding my US shipping address, the price remain the same.

Is there a deliberate price difference or is this a glitch in the website? Thanks.

I’m just checking this – I believe you’re seeing the price with VAT, when you shouldn’t be.
If you’re anxious to not miss out, do feel free to go ahead and purchase and we can refund the VAT later. No danger of running out today though probably.

Hi. I’ve checked and because Joshua Ellis operate internationally, they quote with VAT included but cover all taxes and duties on import – which of course other sites that subtract VAT would not do. So you shouldn’t pay any tax or duty when receiving the cloth. Do let me know if that doesn’t happen.

Hi. I’ve checked and because Joshua Ellis operate internationally, they quote with VAT included but cover all taxes and duties on import – which of course other sites that subtract VAT would not do. So you shouldn’t pay any tax or duty when receiving the cloth. Do let me know if that doesn’t happen.

Yes, that’s true.
It works that way because Joshua Ellis sets international prices for all their products, like scarves and cloth, at a single level in different currencies, so all retailers have the same price. That does mean that perhaps the dollar price could be lower, given the lack of duties, but do bear in mind that I’m also charging less than normal margin, as I do on all things I sell. So you’re saving at least as much there.

I don’t mean to be obnoxious, but Joshua Ellis is certainly charging shipping. Not a big issue and not a large amount ($20 to the US), but thought you should know.

While I appreciate that it has nothing to do with you and that it in no way diminishes how lovely this cloth is or how successful it is set to be, I do find Joshua Ellis’ practice a bit jarring. For instance, for US readers, there is no local VAT and sales taxes is not charged for overseas purchases. Moreover, for purchases under $800 there is generally no customs. I have ordered online from other British cloth merchants and can attest to that. So, effectively, Joshua Ellis is pocketing the UK VAT. Other companies, such as Private White, have a platform that allows them to calculate sales taxes and customs in the destination country and thus avoid this unsavoury result.

Still, this cloth is beautiful and versatile and you are to be congratulated!

Wonderful project! Would you say the brown is similar to the Harris Tweed you had made into a jacket by Caliendo? I have a similar Holland and Sherry cloth and I’m wondering if it would be too much like your Escorial. I will most definitely get the green and oatmeal, though.

Congrats. I have a question about tone of the oatmeal cloth. In the escorial version there seems to be a pink hue to it whereas in the cashmere version it has light brown tone to it. Probably just the photographs but if can elaborate more that would be much appreciated.

Simon would you be able to advise on using these cloths for a tailor to make up trousers.
Would they be appropriate.
They will be used primarily with casual knitwear in the winter.
Thank you for your time

Exciting. All three are colours I’m interested in getting in jackets. However, I would like to pace myself and have each made individually and wear it a while before deciding to move onto the next, rather than buying all of them at once.

I appreciate these will be rewoven if they run out; this won’t just be once and it’s over. That’s really important for us who want to be careful and patient with wardrobe building!

Very nice selection and good to see the range on sale.
I always felt the best ‘brownish’ jacket you had made was the NEAPOLITAN TWEED JACKET – ELIA CALIENDO.

The oat colour is good but could you work it into a weekly rotation being as it’s so noticeable being light coloured ? Probably yes .

The green is the most interesting . Very different but very subtle and unique .

But the ‘elephant’ in the article is navy / blue . It’s many a man’s default but can result in blue on blue considering most men have ‘go to navy trousers’ as well.
However , blue/ navy is the colour that’s allows you to blend in .
Also I think brown and green compared to blue/ navy tend to be jacket colours for ‘older’ men (by older I mean those headings into their forties and certainly not ‘older’ in a negative conatation)
Personally I’d like a blue / navy recommendation as since reading PS most of my trousers are now beige, olive, cream, tan etc

Anyway good stuff and I’m sure it will be a sell out .

P. S. Might be worth mentioning what length average person needs and then some guide as to what various tailors may charge for making it .
Just helps with costing .

I bought a length of Escorial to have made up into a classic Crombie Style overcoat. Cost was £228/metre. The weight was 470 gms/sq. m and at the fitting I had last month on the hottest day of the year, it felt not so much like wearing a duvet but the mattress as well. This is not light weight cloth. I’m not going to be cold this winter!

Would you make these up in a Neapolitan (unstructured) or Florentine (lightly padded) style? Or something more structured?

I can wear pretty much anything to the office. Separates I tend to wear a little more casual (perhaps even with jeans), but might throw on a tie and charcoal or grey gabardine trousers for dinner at the club.

Hi Simon,
Interesting collaboration. I have a brown Harris Tweed jacket that I like very much but find too casual to wear in the office. Given that you seem to have tried to replicate the look of Harris Tweed will these fabrics be similarly casual or does the texture of Escorial makes the end result more like cashmere?
Thanks,

Hi Simon, re. the green – is is close to keepers tweed?
Separately re. the index. Good to have one but in developing the site is it possible to construct one based on types; tailors, shirt makers, coat makers, cloth merchants, knitwear, accessories etc. Within the tailors (given the range) a grouping based on region; SR, Naples, Florence, Rome etc.

Tweed, there’s nothing like it! Many congratulations on some very nice cloth, I particularly like the green. I also particularly like Harris (as you do) but always have the problem that it doesn’t particularly suit an office environment. I can see how this would although I am not sure whether or not a Donegal would give that little bit more interest without being too casual.

Simon, forgive me this is a little off what you are discussing but the closest thread. I really like the look of the cloth, both colour and texture of the jersey cloth, sailing jacket you picture in you piece regarding your recent G&H linen suit. Could you please share the detail on the cloth. With grateful thanks, James

If you were to be the devil’s advocate, what occasions, what situations, temperatures would make you advise against this fabric?

A fine olive loden (Leichtfried), a good mottled beige twill or a hardwearing brown cheviot would be honest fabrics too , wouldn’t they?
I mean when would one really”need” this fabric? Just trying to find good reasons 😉 Thank you Simon.

Nice question. It won’t be great in the warmest countries or seasons – so not summer here in the UK, perhaps not six months of the year somewhere tropical like hong kong. But then, if you’re into cloth and tailoring enough to appreciate this cloth, you’re probably not at the stage where you expect something to be wearable 12 months of the year and still retain all its inherent qualities (eg light tweed, worsted flannel).

I think the biggest ‘need’ would be for a cloth that has colour and character, but isn’t the harder, coarser, rural fabrics mostly associated with them, like cheviot for example.

Simon, I was wondering why you chose a more muted green and brown rather than something darker and more saturated? The brown looks a bit lackluster compared to the rich, vintage tweed jacket fabric made by Elia. I don’t think it was too strong of a color. Just want to know your thinking behind that.

Another question: For sport coats combinations should the jacket be lighter than the trouser, or vice versa? Should there always be contrast? Can you achieve a subtle look with minimal contrast, along the lines of your dark shirt look, but in a combination?

The colour of the brown isn’t that much less rich than the Elia tweed really, just a little lighter. It’s also not possible to have quite the same amount of colour in there without it being a tweed, which is what I wanted to avoid and make it more urban. Hope that makes sense.

There should always be a decent contrast between jacket and trouser, yes, and it’s usually easier to have a dark jacket, light trousers. Of the light jackets though, I’ve found oatmeal to be the easiest to combine with a range of trousers, which is why I went for it

However, usually I ship these kinds of purchases to Hong Kong to save on the tax (VAT and Duties) and I have a friend bring them over here to Manila or I go to Hong Kong to pick them up at my friend’s place when I have a trip there every so often.

Does Joshua Ellis remove the VAT on purchases delivering to Hong Kong? If not, I will have it shipped directly to Manila since you have mentioned in a previous comment that Duties and Taxes will already be covered.

What a great launch! Curious to hear how the oatmeal in the new Loro Piana Fall/Winter 2019 Cashmere Jackets compares to your infamous LP Oatmeal Caliendo jacket and also the Escorial wool version you just launched, thank you

Thanks.
I think all three would be good on all skin tones, yes. Even though I’m fairly pale, the oatmeal works well if a white shirt gives it enough contrast. And I’ve see that Drake’s green jacket we did on people with darker skins, and I think the brown would be similar. The fact they’re also all quite warm tones but not strong makes them versatile in that respect as well.

I can certainly do a follow up on potential trouser combinations. They were picked to be as versatile as possible though, so as mentioned they will all go with greys mid and dark, cream, and then the others of these colours that they are not – so brown goes with green or beige, green goes with brown or beige, and oatmeal goes with brown or green.

I don’t plan any summer cloths, just because I don’t see a particular gap for them. The aim is always trying to create something I want but can’t find, rather than creating a complete collection, if that makes sense.

All three cloths look good on my screen, but these are not strong colors and they are impossible to photograph with absolute accuracy even if viewed on a perfectly calibrated screen, due to a phenomenom called photomerism. Then there are all the other characteristics like feel and texture wich are even harder to show in pictures. Would you order an unusual jacket cloth like these solely on the basis of a few photos you saw on the internet?

Re. the index…no, not a filter connected to the brands.
A separate column on craft types (tailors, coat makers, shoe makers etc.) that can replace the ‘bags, coats’ etc. There is an element of repitition within the menu – you have ‘Categories’ then a repitition of same content following on from wardrobe building – ‘bags, coats, jackets’ etc.
The eight categories at the top (‘About’ etc.) should be at the bottom (normal web layout to put ‘about’, ‘contact us’ at bottom – at present the menu is set up for advertisers first, readers second i.e. ‘Advertising’, ‘Media Pack).
Suggest menu order could be, in order of reader usefulness, as follows;
Calendar
Brands
Categories A-Z
Guides
Lookbook
Style
The Rules
Wardrobe Building
Then….separately or indexed under a title..
Accessory Makers (Belts, Socks, Ties etc.)
Coatmakers
Luggage Manufacturers
Shirtmakers
Shoemakers
Tailors etc.
Then…’About’ etc.

Why? As PS grows (1,000 + articles) the ability to search from the menu grows. It’s now a massive resource for readers. However, especially for new readers unfamiliar to brands, the ability to search be type (‘Neopolitan Tailors’ for example), would add an easier layer of access, particularly if considering a commission and in need of advice.

Thanks, very helpful.
I think it’s because you’re looking just on a mobile, which is a minority of traffic, but it certainly could be clearer there.
On that menu – which is repeated in the ‘hamburger’ menu on a desktop – there are three sections, with the third section a breakdown of some of the categories, as they are the ones most used by readers.
Perhaps I’ll look to make that clearer, and to change the order. The reason it’s in that order at the moment is that most readers do this kind of research on a desktop, and then the major areas are listed across the top of the page already, with the hamburger being an extra – for things like About, Media Pack etc.

I think it might make sense to break the Brands section down into the makers you mention, and then perhaps also include some of those in the hamburger menu. There will be a lot of overlap with the Categories sections of course.

If I hope to use these fabrics with a tailor I haven’t commissioned before, what would be the best protocol? To have my based fitting with another fabric? Do bespoke tailors usually use the identical cloth for the first fitting?

The 2m doesn’t include patch pockets, no. But more importantly, it will vary more with your height and weight. So do check with a tailor how much you need first.

No, you will likely have the basted fitting in this fabric, and that should be fine. It doesn’t make much difference unless you think you’re likely to change your mind after the basted fitting and want to use another tailor.

Pretty much any colour of shoe could work with these, apart perhaps from black, and of course depending on the trousers. My top four would be something like dark-brown calf oxford, mid-brown suede loafer, mid-brown calf derby, mid-brown suede derby.

To be honest I think you’re trying to be too specific. Almost any style would work within these categories I’ve mentioned – adelaide or not, two three or four eyelets. They’d all work, it’s much more a case of personal style

I normally can’t tell if that’s the fabric I want until touching it. Just tried to order the swatches (I assume it’s 3.5pounds for all 3 colours instead of 1), but it charges 20pounds for shipping to Asia…Simon I hope you’re aware of that which would discourage people from making purchase decision.

Dear Simon, thanks for your discussion of cloths and colours for sports jackets. The brown suits you very well.
One of the aspects of your PS site that I appreciate a lot is the attention you give to the craft of different elements of men’s clothing. I wonder if you could reflect a little more on the craft and the making in future posts? I’m thinking particularly of the more backroom elements of the craft – of the men and women who put the stitches in, shape the leather and cut the fabric. The skills these artisans possess are impressive and subtle, and contribute hugely to the success of a finished piece. There is a certain classism in the way backroom skills, if not overlooked, are often not foregrounded to the same degree as front of house skills.
But there is patience, a fine aesthetic sense, and a discipline in the basic skills of tailoring, shoemaking, bag making and the like. I am a fan of Richard Sennett’s excellent book The Craftsman (Penguin 2009), and wonder if the way Sennett has discussed craft might add another dimension to your interviews and reporting on the makers you work with.
I enjoy your work, admire the way you have developed your niche, and send best regards.

Dear Simon,
I am absolutely frustrated with Joshua Ellis who don’t find it necessary to reply to customer service emails. That has happened twice already. First issue was that the discount codes of the green and oat colour samples weren’t applied and second was in my attempt to return the cloth. I haven’t had such an issue with any other company.
P.S. After having had the cloth for some amount of time I decided that I don’t see myself using it for my next 5 commissions, so I decided that if at a future point in time I need it and is available I would use it then. Anyways, if somebody is interested I am more than happy to pass on the cloth (brown and green) to somebody who will enjoy it dearly.

I wanted to try Zizolfi again because I had liked the previous jacket. But the slightly larger style felt unsuited to a small patch breast pocket
I had a welt breast pocket instead, and patch hip pockets, which is say is pretty standard for a casual Neapolitan jacket

A bit of a silly question: I’ve ordered the oatmeal fabric and have now received it. It’s going to be a while before it gets made into a jacket. I was wondering if I should kept it stored in the plastic wrapping it came in or if it would be better to take it out so it gets aired?

What if it’s going to take a year or more before you use it? How would you store it then?

Simon, when you re-run these fabrics will the people on the waiting list get them first? How will that process go? Should I waitlist now if I would like a roll?

I want to meet a tailor to make one of these jackets, but see that it would be a while before the fabric is available. I’m a bit worried that by that time, the cutter will have forgotten my measurements and how my posture looks by then. Should that be something I should consider? Should I get the cloth before going in for the first consultation/measurement?

Putting it in any kind of fabric, cotton etc, though it’s not that important really.
The important thing is plastic to make sure it doesn’t get caught on anything, or have any moth damage.
The disadvantages to wrapping in plastic are the fabric not breathing and getting a bit musty. But that’s all.

I purchased all three fabrics and recently got back a jacket made up in the brown. It came out beautifully.

One detail I noticed not only on your brown jacket pictured in the article, but also on the Drake’s and Caliendo jackets, is swelled edges. I didn’t think to specify this when I commissioned my brown jacket, and mine came back without it.

I have to say, I like the look of the swelled edge. What’s your take on having this fabric made up with or without it? Would it be risky to ask a tailor to add it to my completed jacket? Would the tailor have to remove the current stitching (about 1/16 inch from the edge), or just add another line of stitching a quarter inch from the edge? And would I want to specify anything about the stitch? I’m afraid the stitching could come out too tight, resulting in an unrefined look like a cheap pea coat.

A swelled edge tends to be used on more casual suits and jackets, and more often on southern Italian ones. I wouldn’t necessarily include it if the make is English, though you certainly could.
I think it would be a big tailoring job though, yes. I wouldn’t do it at this stage.
The refined look would come from doing it by hand. A cheap pea coat would have it done my machine, so it would be tighter and have no ups and downs.

Thanks for the advice. The brown one is from b&tailor, and looks nice as-is. I think I’m going to have Anthology do the oatmeal one, and that’ll be a somewhat more casual cut, so maybe I’ll ask them to incorporate swelled edges. Thanks again!

Sure. It means stitching a little way in from the edge of the jacket, such that the gap between it and the edge looks a little raised up, or swelled.
Look at the bottom photo in this post. You can see the effect around the notch of the lapel

I’ve had issues contacting Ciardi and hearing a response via email or Instagram (and I haven’t even started the process yet). Yet they still show new IG posts. Have you had those issues with the house Simon? When a tailor doesn’t respond it makes me hesitant because it gives off the impression of unreliability.

What is the status of the oatmeal and brown — is the waiting list really long for both? If we just sent an email to be placed on the list what are the chances of being called for the next run? I read somewhere that oatmeal will rerun in September. Is that the case?

The oatmeal looks very nice. Having looked at the swatches I do agree that brown and green would look even more wonderful if both were a few shades darker. I’d happily wait for the darker color change.

The oatmeal I think. And no, we’re going to stick with the same shade of the brown, because there are so many people that have asked for the same shade again.
I’m hoping the oatmeal will be available in around a month. We’re just looking at the finish, which we might make a little harder, slightly less fluffy

Simon,
I like the versatility of this tweed–at least based on the images. I find that office-wear requires a lot of versatility these days, with coat-and-chino or coat-and-flannel-trousers becoming a day-to-day norm that requires an occasional shift to something a bit more polished, like the images of you wearing the tweed coat with a tie and spread-collar shirt. I know you’ve written a bit about this kind of versatility in the past, but I’d like to focus on shirts for a moment. Are you able to wear a poplin shirt with this type of tweed (muted color, minimal nap), or does it do better with a twill, oxford, or brushed cotton?

You certainly could wear a poplin with this kind of jacket, I think, but I would keep most other things smart – eg a dark tie, with a simple pattern, grey trousers and so on. An oxford would be more flexible though

Would you ever wear a poplin without a tie, either to dress something up, or if the poplin was on the casual side (e.g., patterns, a color other than white)? I could imagine it being worn with a relatively smart tweed/Donegal coat, flannels, etc. for a dressier office casual look.

I was looking at the logbook (helps with escaping a bit from the current quarantine reality) and I get the impression that your newer jackets have slightly wider sleeves than earlier ones.
The jacket shown here being an example of the ‘wider sleeve’ style compared with those of Caliendo, Solito or Langa. Is this a fair assessment? What is the effect of narrower or wider sleeves?

Interesting point. I wouldn’t say it’s a trend over time, more that I have used a couple of slightly more traditional Neapolitan tailors recently (Ciardi and Zizolfi), who would tend to a slightly wider sleeve than the others in Naples (Caliendo, Solito).

I actually prefer wider sleeves generally, because they are more comfortable and if anything make the arm look a little bigger. The only time I would not have them would be if the whole style of the jacket was to be slimmer, smaller and neater, and the sleeve size would be out of place.

I hope that makes sense?

We are all well, thank you. And actually it’s been lovely the messages of support from readers and customers on the shop, all wanting to make sure PS is ok.