French Find

Gemenos Proves A Delicious Weekend In Provence

June 19, 1994|By Rich Warren. Special to the Tribune.

GEMENOS, France — Provence beckoned like a box of Fauchon assorted chocolate truffles. However, like those famed treats, choosing one or two or even three samples challenges the most decisive traveler. Author Peter Mayle spent years sampling all that Provence offers, and required two books to tell all of it.

We had but a weekend.

Our many friends who previously enjoyed this oasis of sunshine in southeastern France suggested their favorite destinations. Arles, Nimes, Les Baux, Pont du Gard and Aix-en-Provence all came highly recommended. Each requires nearly a day or more to fully appreciate. Friend Harry solved the dilemma. He advised mingling with the local citizenry rather than the tourists by staying in Gemenos.

Gemenos, a small village less than half-an-hour drive from either Aix or Marseille, discretely nestles in the foothills five minutes from the A52 autoroute. You know you've arrived when you see the large fountain at the center of the traffic rotary. Drive three-quarters of the way around the fountain and into the promenade lane of Le Relais de Magdeliene (phone, direct dial: 011-33-42-32-20-16; fax 011-33-42-32-02-26).

(If you miss the tastefully calligraphed name on the outside wall, you'll know you've arrived there when you see-or hear-Carole, the tame celebrity donkey in the pasture next to the drive. She starred in the 1986 movie "Jean de Florette"-filmed in the vicinity of Gemenos-when the original donkey in the cast was taken ill.)

Relais de Magdeliene stands at the end of an arbored lane as an imposing statement to the wealth and solid construction of the 18th Century. There's also a concession or two to the present times, such as a swimming pool-piscene, in French. Having a piscene seems to be the biggest drawing card in sun-drenched Provence, where the climate resembles the south-central coast of California.

Still inhabited by the Marignane family, which has owned it for more than a century, Magdeliene offers two dozen guest rooms. Each room retains some of its original furnishings, including 200-year-old antiques, along with modern plumbing, CNN on the TV, original artwork on the wall and a most comfortable bed. Some rooms even include a whirlpool.

The tariff for a double room ranges from about $100 to $140 a night depending on the exchange rate and room size. A similar inn, assuming you could find one, in one of the popular tourist areas might cost double this amount.

Be sure to partake of the petit dejeuner, better known as continental breakfast. Admittedly, the $8 is what you'd pay at a major urban hostelery, but the fresh-baked croissants and breads with homemade jams, jellies and lavender honey are worth every centime. The cafe au lait tasted better than any we sipped in Paris.

For the economy minded, a 10-minute walk into town offers a choice of four bakeries, a pizza parlor and a creperie. The last, Chez Moi, is also a franc-stretching choice for lunch or dinner. Be sure to save room for the "Gemenosienne" dessert crepe. A meal for two, with main course crepes, dessert crepes and the local wine costs less than $30.

Celebrate at least one evening by dining in the Magdeliene dining room beneath the 15th-Century tapestry depicting the biblical story of Esther. The French drive many kilometers for dinner here, prepared by the Marignanes' son, Philipp.

Staying at Magdeliene may interfere with sightseeing plans. It encourages a certain degree of laziness with its beautiful setting and creature comforts.

We felt obligated to explore the area around Gemenos. While the Michelin Green Guide gives short shrift to the town, buried in the back of the guide are multi-starred attractions a few minutes into the hills.

If you visit on a weekday you'll have the entire area to yourself. But venture out on a weekend and you'll experience a crash course in French recreation. If you want to avoid looking like a tourist, carry a baguette under one arm. The signs in the park forbid picnics and dogs, but on a Sunday everyone will have a baguette, picnic hamper and le chien.

If hiking is your passion, Mr. Marignane, who speaks English, will loan you Christoper and Malika Kern's book, "52 Balades en famille autour de Marseille," published by Didier Richard in 1993, which details a wealth of hikes within an hour's drive of Gemenos.