Lilmike and others. I was writing up directions last night and I was curious about something. Instead of using PL adhesive on everything, I thought about using wood glue to glue everything but the final side used to cap it up. I figured I'd use the PL adhesive on that last side panel to make sure I get a good seal.

Any thoughts on that? I figured wood glue for the inner panels just because it sets up so quickly. My overkill method also considered adding a bead of caulking along each panel just for fun, but that's probably not necessary with the grooves cut into the side panels.

By the way, writing up the directions stink. I think I was trying to give more detail than is actually needed. Plus it's kinda hard to describe every little thing you're doing. But it's almost done. Just checking on the wood glue thoughts.

I think it's suppose to rain tomorrow and this weekend. If that's the case, I should get a LOT of these boxed up and sent out. As in for all of the guys that have sent me their addresses.

The ripped tendons in my arms felt a lot better yesterday and today, so I'll really be able to move on these if they stay feeling good.

Lilmike and others. I was writing up directions last night and I was curious about something. Instead of using PL adhesive on everything, I thought about using wood glue to glue everything but the final side used to cap it up. I figured I'd use the PL adhesive on that last side panel to make sure I get a good seal.

Any thoughts on that? I figured wood glue for the inner panels just because it sets up so quickly. My overkill method also considered adding a bead of caulking along each panel just for fun, but that's probably not necessary with the grooves cut into the side panels.

By the way, writing up the directions stink. I think I was trying to give more detail than is actually needed. Plus it's kinda hard to describe every little thing you're doing. But it's almost done. Just checking on the wood glue thoughts.

I think it's suppose to rain tomorrow and this weekend. If that's the case, I should get a LOT of these boxed up and sent out. As in for all of the guys that have sent me their addresses.

The ripped tendons in my arms felt a lot better yesterday and today, so I'll really be able to move on these if they stay feeling good.

I vote for all PL. I've still managed to make leaky cabinets with PL (but mine were not CNC cut or baltic birch, so those variables are gone), but it is a lot easier to apply as it is in a tube and I can use a gun. It also stays put nicely on vertical surfaces.

In my opinion, using one glue and no caulking is easier, and building with brad nails is super fast (screws are fast too). PL tacks quickly, and is plenty strong. The last three cabinets I "took apart" for reuse as firewood required some effort, and the plywood gave up before the PL did. I'm not looking forward to the disassembly of the Shiva cabinet...braced 3/4" Arauco will put up quite the fight.

I would think that PL alone would be sufficient for strength. 18 gauge brads do help to keep everything in place during assembly. Perhaps you could set the brad gun to maximum pressure thereby sinking the brads a ways into the plywood so that they wouldn't interfere with finish sanding. The tiny 18g brads don't leave much of a hole to fill.

The main thing when putting the inner panels in is to make sure they are all level on the top while you go. That way the capping panel will fit nicely in place and keep things sealed up real good. I'm writing up directions, but probably not fast enough. Obviously drill the correct holes around the woofer first. I believe you should use a 1/8" bit with #8 pan heads. Make sure you glue all pieces to each other. You don't just want the inner panels glued to the sides, they must be glued to each other as well. The screws help on the inner panels, but you still need to glue them to each other as you go.

Don't drill through the pilot holes until they are dry fitted in place. You should start with panel L and J. Get both of those in first, that will give you a nice 90 degree shape to lay a board on to make sure all other inner panels are level with those first 2.

These aren't the directions I was working on, but I'll type the following up quickly just in case:

In order, I did L & J. Then M, then K. After that, install G, H, and I. Dry fit first, then drill through pilot holes. Make sure it's all level on the top and no wood splinters down in the grooves that might keep panels from nesting in good. No excess dried glue from previous panels down in the grooves.

Then C, then F.

By that time, part M should be set up fairly strong. Install driver and figure how your going to run the speaker wire. I picked up enough of these binding posts (30) to get a discount of around $7 after I paid tax (I'll have to get an exact price): http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1245

That's what I'm using because all you have to do is drill 2 small holes. But I also bought some regular terminal cups like this if anyone needs them:

They look like that, but not push button, they the normal screw on type. I think those were $2 or $2.50 when I bought 30 of them.

Get all that wiring run on the correct panel first. Personally, I'm putting the terminals on panel D.

As for screws, you can use the normal #8 pan heads for mounting the driver. You can get by with 1" screws. You can use the same screws for putting the cabinet together as well. But the head is a little big on those. Granted you won't see them anyway, so who cares.

#6 pan head screws will work fine as well for putting the cabinet together, but I'd probably use #8 for the woofer. I use a 1/8" bit for #8 and around a 3/32" or 7/64" bit for #6. Doesn't really matter.

After part D and E are in place, I'd let it dry. But that may not be needed. Dry fit the last side panel. I'd do that a couple times to make sure you have it planned out right. Put a decent amount of PL adhesive on all the panel tops, then lay the capping panel in place. You don't need to go nuts with the adhesive , just make sure you put enough on. I'd then lay a flat board on top, and put some weight on it.

Things you might want to do: Test driver before sealing it up. If your nuts like me, maybe use caulking around all inner panel prior to capping it up? That really isn't necessary though. Just make sure it's sealed up good. This is wood, so there's always going to be a chance for a very slight bow on the longer narrow outside pieces. If there is a bow, it won't cause any issues. A clamp could help out. Or you could drill another pilot hole where ever you thought would help. But again, as I'm packing these up, they are pretty darn flat. Maybe a clamp here or there? Might not be needed though. If clamping, give even pressure across what ever you're clamping.

A quick note. On the site I listed a parts kit that is sold for cost. Actually, it's less than you can get it anywhere else because I bought enough to get a discount. Basically it's just your choice of terminal plates or cups and #6 screws for the cabinet and #8 screws for the woofer. (you can use #8 on all of it though).

It was also going to put in some gasket tape, but I'm now packing a piece of that with each flat pack for free. It was cheap and that's something that not everyone has at home. A few guys on the JBL group buy rounded up on paying (even though I asked not to), so I took some of that and bought the gasket material. It just made sense.

I'll try to get better directions up later. It's drizzling outside, so that means I can work in the shop.......boxing up a LOT of these flat packs.

I got mine the other day but just had a chance to play with it a bit ago.

The plywood on this is beautiful. Ive definitely not seen this type of wood at my local HD/Lowes.

Everybody has different levels of mechanical sympathy, but for me I dont find instructions necessary. With the labeled panels I had it together with painters tape in 20 minutes. I tell ya, If I had acces to this guy Id sell my table saw, the work is outstanding.

Anyway, I gotta order a driver from Kevin and figure out an amp.

I'm going to run this at my shop. I run the speakers here with an HK 3480 stereo receiver. It has a sub out but its full range. I was thinking of getting one of the PE sub amps because I need the low pass knob to blend it in.

Should I get the 100 watt or the 70 ? Figure those watt numbers are halved at 8 ohms. The re on the Anarchy is 6.5. Are we calling this a 4 or 8 ohm driver?

Ill build a little box for the amp and hang it on the back with a french cleat.

Bottom line, this little kit far exceeded my expectations and was packed perfectly. Smaller package than I was expecting for sure. BIG MASSIVE thanks to lilmike an Erich for bringing this to reality. You guys worked your asses off for this, with no expectation of gain. Restores my faith in humanity a bit.

Okay guys, some extra kits went out on Saturday. Not sure if they will actually ship on that day or not. But they have been delivered to my local FedEx drop off. I'll contact you to let you know if yours was one of the kits shipped......it likely was.

There WAS a reason I was waiting. I wanted to make sure my packaging was okay. I didn't want to send out 50 kits and have 1/2 get damaged due to poor packaging. Plus I had a phone meeting with FedEx last Tuesday and she was going to try and lower the shipping rates. So I hoped to save you some money. I think they did go down a little, but they publish new base rates each month based on fuel surcharges. That went up a little. So it was almost a wash. It did go down a bit though.

By the end of the day today I'll have about 30 more boxed up. No, I can't do 30 per day, but Friday and Saturday I was working pretty fast to get a jump on these. I just needed to get ahead of the ordering. And now the the JBL group buy has slowed down, it gave more time.

Plus, I found a much quicker way to box them up by sitting the flat pack on my skid steer's pallet forks. It lets me shrink wrap the kits MUCH faster, like twice as fast.

Long story short, I think I've caught up on the orders.....finally. It wasn't easy having that many to package up all at once.

Pictures of the "Assembly Kit" I was able to price out for cheap. Thanks to Parts Express to cutting some slack on pricing for this extra stuff.

It will ship FREE if it goes out in your flat pack box. Or I can stuff quite a few in a small US Postal box for super cheap shipping.

The binding posts in the first one sell for almost as much as the entire kit I was able to put together through PE. The included speaker wire is enough to run it to the front or side of the box. I happened to have some of that available. I think it's 12 gauge Monster cable. Hopefully have enough for all these kits. Also included are the 4 gold plated wire disconnects, gasket material, and screws.

The other kit is cheaper. I found some gold plated terminal cups versus the binding posts for less.

If you guys want this with your flat pack, please let me know. I thought PE did a good job on pricing for us DIY guys. Oh, and no charge for me counting out the screws and putting them in tiny bags........my little niece did that!

With the price of Neodymium going through the roof, this is a great deal.

WOW! I'm all over that. In fact, I think I'll pick up 4 of them to keep a few on hand in case I decide to build a couple more subs. Heck, at this price you can buy 4 of these for less than what you'd pay for 2 of the Anarchy drivers (w/shipping). HUUUGE thanks for posting this!

Ahh, haha. I was looking at the flat pack on the site and followed the link for the Tang Bang. I was wondering why anyone would use the Anarchy if this guy was so cheap. I guess that's not regular pricing then!

From what I've read, the Anarchy woofers have closer matching specs from one to the other. Not sure how much that matters, but that's what I've heard.

I did package up about 8 with the nicer binding posts if anyone wants those, please let me know. The other 20 are just the regular flat packs.

For what it's worth, the binding posts will be very easy to install. The reason I picked those was because all you need to do is drill 2 small holes and tap them in place. I figured that was easier than cutting out a 2" hole for the terminal cups.

C'mon guys, give Kevin Haskins at diycable.com a break here. He has already stepped up with a $20 discount for AVS Forurm group buyers for the originally recommended Exodus Anarchy 6.5" driver. His driver has the same Xmax as the Tang Bang, but is much linear at the extremes due to its XBL motor, has more power handling, and has an optimized pole vent construction that dramatically reduces noise at full excursion. These orders don't mean anything to Tang Bang or Parts-express, meanwhile Kevin is struggling to make a living providing us with the highest quality products at the best value possible.

I am still looking for an amp for 3 of these that is not a receiver and has all of the necessary crossover, phase and gain without having to be modded. Anyone know of a amp like this? Thanks for the help.

C'mon guys, give Kevin Haskins at diycable.com a break here. He has already stepped up with a $20 discount for AVS Forurm group buyers for the originally recommended Exodus Anarchy 6.5" driver. His driver has the same Xmax as the Tang Bang, but is much linear at the extremes due to its XBL motor, has more power handling, and has an optimized pole vent construction that dramatically reduces noise at full excursion. These orders don't mean anything to Tang Bang or Parts-express, meanwhile Kevin is struggling to make a living providing us with the highest quality products at the best value possible.

Thanks,
Darrell

I mentioned this project when I bought 3 of these drivers but did not see any discount in my billing. I assume that I did something wrong but I will have investigate this further. Kinda disappointed at the moment.

I mentioned this project when I bought 3 of these drivers but did not see any discount in my billing. I assume that I did something wrong but I will have investigate this further. Kinda disappointed at the moment.

I'm sure Kevin will make it right. You may have to help him connect the dots if you used a different userid for the flat pack group buy.

I mentioned this project when I bought 3 of these drivers but did not see any discount in my billing. I assume that I did something wrong but I will have investigate this further. Kinda disappointed at the moment.

You have to mention that you're using the woofers for the Anarchy flat pack.

I'll be giving a code with each package that gets shipped out (28 tomorrow).

When you order on Kevin's website, there's a small box for 'notes' as you check out. You type it in there and he will deduct it from your total. As mentioned earlier, the discount may not show up during the order, but he will take off the amount prior to charging your credit card.

C'mon guys, give Kevin Haskins at diycable.com a break here. He has already stepped up with a $20 discount for AVS Forurm group buyers for the originally recommended Exodus Anarchy 6.5" driver. His driver has the same Xmax as the Tang Bang, but is much linear at the extremes due to its XBL motor, has more power handling, and has an optimized pole vent construction that dramatically reduces noise at full excursion. These orders don't mean anything to Tang Bang or Parts-express, meanwhile Kevin is struggling to make a living providing us with the highest quality products at the best value possible.

Thanks,
Darrell

I consider Kevin a friend. Kevin knows that he does not compete with Tang Band.

The Anarchy is an exceptional driver for a tapped horn, and as a result, it is the driver I chose for the final version of this design.

The Tang Band W6-1139SI is also an exceptional driver for a tapped horn, and works well in this cabinet.

I bought my Tang Bands a while back, and paid $29 each. At that price point, they are hard to beat. When priced the same as the Anarchy, as their typical retail price is? There is simply no point in buying the Tang Band, the Anarchy is considerably better and costs the same. It's also sold by a stand-up guy who also happens to be a really great person.

Anarchy has:
Cast Frame
XBL^2 motor
Lower Qes
Better BL^2/Re/Sd

Tang Band does not.

That is why the Anarchy is the driver I recommend.

The Tang Band is on sale today. It will be back to regular price tomorrow. If you're dealing with a limited budget, the sale may make a difference, and the Tang Band driver will work.

I did package up about 8 with the nicer binding posts if anyone wants those, please let me know. The other 20 are just the regular flat packs.

For what it's worth, the binding posts will be very easy to install. The reason I picked those was because all you need to do is drill 2 small holes and tap them in place. I figured that was easier than cutting out a 2" hole for the terminal cups.

I din't see where you've shipped mine yet, I'll take the nicer binding posts if possible. If it's shipped with the cup already, it's not a problem.