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ACB6280AS Amana Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for ACB6280AS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

1998 oven unit flashing F3

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

Oven Door wouldn't fully close and light stayed on.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

Double convection oven cooling fan was failing, making a loud noise.

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inchesRemoved the control panel.Unbolted the cooling fan assemblyUnplugged the assembly from the wiring harnessRemoved the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fanBolted the new fan in placeReplaced the control panelSlid the unit back into positionBolted the unit in placeTurned the circuit breaker back onTested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

Broiler would not heat

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

Oven Door hinge is broken

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

temperature probe insulation broken down so short circuit

As the probe is a plug-in item that would normally be out of the oven, there was nothing more to the repair than checking that the new probe plug fitted the socket and that it was detected by the oven. Then the old probe was consigned to the trash.

Everything checked out, and the probe was used satisfactorily within a couple of days.

oven display became gradually almost totally dim in a couple of weeks

Pulled the breaker supplying power to the oven to OFF.Removed four screws at the bottom of the control panel assembly above the top oven door (open the top oven door to access these screws). Lifted this control panel upwards to unhook it from a metal bracket. In my case, cabinet doors just above the control panel made this operation difficult. Tilted the panel down. At this point, cables prevent complete removal of the control panel: The electronic clock assembly is attached with four screws inside this panel and connects to electrical equipment above the oven with two cables.Unplugged these two cables. Their connectors must be unlatched by prying with a screw driver in the right place. Once these cables were disconnected, the control panel could be removed from the oven area.Disconnected the ribbon cable connecting the switches on the control panel to the clock assembly. That was the tricky part. Contrary to what I thought, this ribbon cable was not terminated by a connector but just snapped in the connector mounted on the clock assembly. After some fumbling, found that I had to depress both edges of the connector which allowed lifting up one part. Then the ribbon cable could be bent slightly to disengage two holes in the ribbon from nubs in the connector assembly and pull out the ribbon.Removed old clock assembly by removing the four screws. Installed the new assembly with the four screws. Connected the two cables to the new clock assembly.Reinstalled the control panel with the new clock assembly reconnecting the two cable connectors and by sliding the control panel down over the metal plate attached to the top of the oven.Fastened the panel with the four screws.Turned the circuit breaker back on.

Oven kept shutting off, getting F-3, F-5 messages on LED readout

I was out pricing new stoves. Why are slide in stoves twice the price of regular stoves?? I tried one last go at ordering part, overnight mail. Needed to get it fixed for the holiday meal. Part came within one day, early, and it worked. Stove fixed easily, spent the money on a big screen TV.

Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor. Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

F1 code and oven wouldn't operate

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.