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Description

"The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please."

Climb up some good plates and edges past the first bolt and into the huge hueco. An awesome 2-finger pocket gets you established at the overhanging bulge. Pull over the bulge on good holds and make a desperate escape left onto the thin slab after the last bolt.

Location

Located amongst some formations to the northwest of the main LLUA Crag. See map on main page for directions.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Walkoff/downclimb an easy V0 boulder problem on the far northeast corner of the formation.

the climbing leading to the dustbowl is fun and harder than it looks, then the best part begins. Some strong cranking leads to a spicey topout. The last clip is difficult, however immaculately clean fall potential exists. Walkoff is far climbers right, downclimb an arete.
Sep 10, 2011

I was pretty impressed by this climb. The bottom moves provide some elevation, and the last ten feet are slightly mysterious and fun. I thought the last clip was quite mellow, however: you pull up rope while hanging off a solid open-hand edge.

I'm curious about the face to the right. There appears to be a fun line there.
Sep 26, 2011

I'm not sure if a few holds have broken off near the crux in recent years as today was my first time on the chinaman, but it felt much harder than the nihlist. Also, there was a small lip on a rail above the third bolt which I heavily relied on to get over/onto the bulge and that snapped on me. Not sure if that was part of the original beta but it was helping me a ton. Tried the sequence again after that happened and i got stumped.
Jul 6, 2016