2004 Domaine aux Moines [Laroche] Savennières “Roche aux Moines”Opens with nice plump weight in the middle but a clear streak of acids screaming around the edges. With a few hours of air that integrates and it tastes progressively less sour. Eventually it is quite an enjoyable, creamy and waxy yet still crisp and almost flinty Savennières. Not grand, and does not show much length, depth or transcendent vibrato, but it is hardly a full-on bumpkin, and is quite nice and respectable if not regal. I would prefer the 11euro France price to the $21 Oakland price. But hey, what else is new.

2004 Tamellini SoaveThis is impressive. Bursting with juicy ripe green yellow fruits (yes, green and yellow can be ripe) yet the finish is so clean lively and fresh. $14 is cheap.

2005 Domaine de la Pépière VdPdJdlFMdB “Cuvée Granit”You heard it here first, this is fun stuff! Same as it ever was over this past month, and goes extraordinarily well with tomato, red pepper, rosemary and garlic pizza.

2004 JP Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien”Tart bright fruit that gets firmer and more tannic with air. This is definitely a high-toned bright number that is stark clear and crisp, but it has depth in terms of flavor and the joyousness factor. Forgive the digression but these cherries are baked, coiled, focused, and fine. Mmmm.

2004 Gunderloch “Jean Baptiste” Riesling KabinettA couple of months ago I did not like this at all, and I found it too dry and sour. But, things taste different now, which is either a function of the wine changing or my palate being out of whack. Whatever the answer, I prefer what is happening now, as this is showing a juicy core of sweet lemon drops surrounded by a crisp tingling somewhat-mineral flat grey carbon frame. Not ponderous, but perfectly acceptable to pour and have fun with people.

1999 Ferdinando Zanusso i Clivi Collio Goriziano “Brazan”Mmm, curious but tasty pungent spicy apple cider with sour ginger lemons, a nutty oxidized twist and a salty mineral finish. The texture is crunchy, slightly spritzy, but with enough weight to keep it tactile and to keep me putting it in my mouth. Until eventually I decide that the curiosity factor is just not giving enough pleasure to continue. I understand some people paid serious money for this, which may change the calculation, but I found it for $11.50 on closeout, which was a fine purchase, if not necessary to repeat.

Rahsaan wrote:2004 JP Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien”Tart bright fruit that gets firmer and more tannic with air. This is definitely a high-toned bright number that is stark clear and crisp, but it has depth in terms of flavor and the joyousness factor. Forgive the digression but these cherries are baked, coiled, focused, and fine. Mmmm.

After patiently waiting a whole month for travel shock to subside, I finally opened another of these last night. YESSSS!!! Similar response, although it also evokes tart wild strawberries for me. And rainwater. Now can I be as patient before opening the 2005 that just came last week? Or the Cote de Brouilly? Or the rosé?

Looking forward to the Granits, too ... both the VdPdJdlFMdB and the Cot.

OK Rahsaan, Pepiere with pizza was meant to gain my attention right?!! Well, you suceeded. BTW a great match for me this week was the white Esporao (Portugal) with crab cakes.
That Savennieres is a bit young, no?

Pepiere with pizza was meant to gain my attention right?!! Well, you suceeded

It is one of the red Pepieres, and while the ingredients may have been more Mediterranean, the juicy freshness and tactile grip of the wine worked really well. Crisp sweet red peppers added a great dimension bringing it all together.

That Savennieres is a bit young, no?

I don't think so. I don't have extensive experience aging their wines, some from the early 90s and one 89, but I think it is telling that they now seem to be selling all their older stock to US merchants at low prices (there is stuff from the early and mid 90s available at many shops for less than $30). It's not because they've been holding back their wines to achieve perfection but rather because nobody else wanted to buy.

This was probably the best wine I've ever tasted from them, as the others were rustic and underripe to a fault, even if they had cute middlin charms. That said, this one still didn't seem particularly worthy of bothering to age, it certainly wasn't too tight, and there are many more interesting Savennieres out there worth dealing with.

Of course, it was fun, and I was pleased to drink it, so take that mishmosh of comments as you will.