I will go for Scothcx brite fine polishing then. Main issue are the gunk / marks on thge cyl#3 parent bore.. you can really feel the grooves by putting your finger on them..

I am not planning to replace the camshaft, or in your option should I go for a new one? The lift pump is correctly operated by this despite the pit caused by years of operation (7000hs)

I do think I ll be going for original PERKINS spares (finished liners), I shown the damaged piston #1 to a local MF / Perkins dealer and in his opinion that damage (cavity on the piston side and footprint on sleeve) has been generated by a faulty injector operations which does not spray correctly so to get an atomised flow

Back to head gasket I am asking if an non setting compote , as Hylomar Universal blue is, is suggested to be smeared over the new head gaskets. Also here your suggestion would be appreciated a lot!

You really can't do anything about the grooves, I would just clean it up a bit with scotch brite. Scotch brite is only going to remove anything that is already loose which is all you need to really do.

If you replace the camshaft then you have to replace the lifters also, the cam lobes, and lifters have to bed into each other. Old lifters on a new can either wear the cam lobe (or the lifter) out quick.

As I am planning next step I am now really into the re-installation guidelines contained in the workshop manual.

- I would then put in the chiller the new service liners and use the flat bar as suggested. What about using the same puller pad I used for sleeving the old liners out?
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- Conrod locking nuts. I see in the torques spec attached there are different settings according to nuts type (cadmium coated, phospateted).. which ones does my engin run according to this picture?
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- Conrodss report the code 31337540 and a wording NAW with a code I cannot clearly read.. I do guess they are OEM ones.
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- I am also replacing the conrods small end bushes as well as gudgeon pins I ll just press them out? Any suggestion on alternative methods or tips?

- Once I ll have fitted new service liners it I am check the relation of them to top face of bock which is specified to be + / - 0,004" (0,1mm) should it be better to have them up / down in relation to block surface?

I wouldn't use the puller, you need the flat bar that covers all the top of the sleeve. If the sleeves are chilled enough they might (but rarely) go all the way in on their own but I'd have the flat bar ready.

On the liners my MF shop manual says Flush to 0.004 in below the deck for the ad3.152.

As for as the rod nuts I would see about getting new ones since they are self locking nuts.

After pressing in the new bushings in the rods they will probably need to be reamed to size for proper clearance to the wrist pin.

You can let the sleeves chill as much as you want, they are only going to get so cold. You may want to keep a eye on the sleeves while they are chilling just to make sure they don't start to possibly rust. If you can get a ice chest with some dry ice to chill the sleeves the dry ice will get them colder than a freezer will unless you have a really good freezer (which can help them go in easier).

When you press the bushings in they get a little smaller on the inside. On the combustion chambers in the head I would wire wheel all the carbon off, then I would take the all the valves, and lap them to make sure that they still set good in the valve seats so they seal good.

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