Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling water, separating the strands, until al dente. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well and put into a large bowl. Make the dressing by whisking together the soy sauce, vinegar, chile lemon oil, sugar and salt.

Toss the dressing, lemon zest and sesame seeds with the noodles, using your fingers to coat and separate the strands. Let the noodles sit 10 minutes or refrigerate until ready to use. Just before serving, toss the noodles with the cucumber, pepper, carrot, most of the green onion and bean sprouts. Arrange in bowls and garnish with the remaining green onions and basil or cilantro or both. Serves 6 as a main course.

(For picnicking, reserve the bean sprouts and basil or cilantro garnish and transport them in a Ziploc bag. Pack the noodles into a plastic container or Ziploc bags and toss with the bean sprouts and garnish just before serving.)