Regular crochet hook required for bead work. Hook should be small enough to fit inside the bead. Size 13 thread hook used in sample.

Yarn needle

Pattern Notes

For this project, the beads are not pre-strung. They are added individually at the time of making the stitch. The stitch used in this project for the bead is Tunisian Simple Stitch.

To maintain a neat edge at the end of a row, insert hook under both the regular vertical bar and the one directly to the side simultaneously before pulling the loop through. See video for more information, as necessary.

Scarf is made flat, then seamed. There may be some curling at the foundation edge which is resolved with blocking.

While there is one loop on your hook, insert hook as you would for mod-tss, yarn over and pull loop through, but pull it through the loop on the hook as well. You are creating a slip stitch with a mod-tss insertion. Keep in mind that it’s just a slip stitch and it will be easy to do. You can use a comparable size regular crochet hook for this portion if it makes it easier. Slip stitch in mod-tss insertion across. Fasten off.

Finishing

Without twisting scarf, using yarn needle and yarn, seam short edges of scarf together. Block as desired. Weave in all loose ends securely.

When I first designed my Jersey Mitts, it was before Christmas last year. My son, Christian, then 10 years old, requested a pair for himself. We went on the website for Cascade 220 Fingering yarn and he chose two colors of his very own.

While I waited for the yarn to arrive, I became really busy working on the larger size of Jersey Mitts and then I worked on making full fingered Jersey Gloves. The thought of making another pair so soon afterward was too much. After three pair, I really needed to do something else, much to Christian’s dismay.

Christian finally got what he wanted, though. It turned out that it wasn’t that difficult. I just used hooks two sizes smaller than what is shown in the pattern. That’s it! No other alterations were necessary and they are a perfect fit for him. He. Loves. Them. And. Won’t. Take. Them. Off.

UPDATE: It’s been two years and Christian is still wearing these mitts! He loves them so much. For a kid who tends to lose just about everything in his room at some point, he has been able to keep these “hand-y” all these time.

He just asked me last week for a new pair since these are getting a little small. We’ll have to pick new colors and I’ll need to stitch up some more. How fun! I love it when little crochet gifts are so appreciated.

If you have never tried double-ended Tunisian crochet, I recommend that you try out the Dueling Colors Cowl HERE to practice. This project uses the same stitch pattern, but is more challenging with two balls of yarn in the same color while including shaping for the top of the beanie.

Special Stitch

Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks):: Insert hook from front of work to back of work between front and back vertical bars of the same stitch, yarn over, pull lp through.

Notes

This beanie is super stretchy, more like a knit beanie, unlike what is normally seen with any other type of crochet ribbing.

I’ve used superwash wool so this project can be machine washed and dried. Be aware that, if you allow superwash wool to air dry, it will lose its shape. If this happens, wash and dry again in a machine.

Project is made flat then seamed.

When turning back and forth to change balls of yarn, watch which direction you are turning the hook so your yarn doesn’t become tangled.

Instructions

Row 1:

A: With first ball of yarn, ch 30, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through (leave lp on hook), rep from * across–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees so back of work is facing you, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull though one lp on hook, still with second ball of yarn, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp hook hook.

Note: Decreasing will occur on only one side of the hat. If there is confusion, you may place a stitch marker or small piece of yarn on that side to ensure that decreasing doesn’t accidentally occur on both sides. If you begin having any problems with keeping your place, practice this project in two separate colors first.

Row 2:

A: Still with second ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks to last st (do not work last st)–29 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with first ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] until 2 lps remain on hook (one st remaining).

Row 3:

A: Still with first ball of yarn, skipping two vertical bars (these two stitches are already on hook), tks across–29 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Rows 4-17: Rep rows 2-3 consecutively. On final row, 22 lps on hook.

Row 18:

A: Still with second ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks completely across, picking up all skipped sts at the ends of previous rows–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with first ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Row 19:

A: Still with first ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, tks across–30 lps on hook.

B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, with second ball of yarn, pull through one lp on hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.

Rows 20-73: [Rep rows 2-19] 3 times.

Rows 74-90: Rep rows 2-18.

Row 91: Still with first ball of yarn, sk first vertical bar, [insert hook as for tks in next st, yo, pull lp through st and lp on hook (sl st made)] across. Fasten off, leaving about 12-15″ strand for seaming.

Finishing

With yarn needle, seam Row 1 to Row 91, weave strand into all stitches at top of hat, cinch to close. Weave in all loose ends carefully.