Re: Update on jd350c knock

Those lower bolts are a reason why so many 350s get their reverser and transmission cases ruined. The factory puts them in super tight. Near impossible to get them that tight yourself again. So they loosen, the two locating dowels wobble, shafts and cases get ruined. Most 350s I look over these days are coming loose where the two cases join.

When we took apart 350s when near brand new - we'd heat the heads of the bolts cherry red so they'd stretch. Then later, we'd use new grade 8 or 9 bolts to put back together and tighten with chain-wrenches. We had to take apart a lot of nearly brand new 350C with blown reversers.

In regard to your knock. I suggested earlier you pull off your reverser filter and stick your hand inside to inspect the counter-shaft. You can reach in and put your hand right on it.

You are gong to have your hands full. Usually pulling a reverser is no easy job. Usually entails a few or more broken or stripped bolts. Have your side-frames been cracking where they bolt to the final drive clutch housings?

I was going to pull the filter out and check inside but when I found the noise I knew I had to pull the reverser. I figure I"ll look at it when I get inside. The frames and bolts all look tight with no sign of being loose. I am sure it has never been apart before as I have owned it most of it"s life. It looks like it will be a fun job. To bad I can"t pull the guts out the front of the reverser. Thanks, Ken

You CAN pull the guts out the front. Be a tough job trying to fix a reverser that way - but as I recall you CAN get the stuff out the front. Worst part is getting the reverser-control valve assembly off the side of the reverser case while the reverser is still bolted in. I've done it - so I know it can be done. Some studs have to be removed. Once that control valve is out - and two little oil-delivery tubes out, much will be free. Then you remove the front cover, and then yank all the guts out. One reason why it usually NOT done this way is bearing-shim adjustments. If the end-play on the shafts if wrong - the bearing quill where you remove shims to tighten is in the back of the reverser. If the end-play is OK now -then I guess it is possible to fix without taking the reverser case out.

Thanks for the reply. I was in upper Michigan last week and didn"t get back with you. I see it would be real tough to get at the control valve to remove so I am just going to pull the reverser out.I want to be sure the end play is alright before reinstall. Too big of a job to put back together without checking everything. Thanks, Ken

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