Stopping in Oceanside along the Three Capes Scenic Loop

The road between Cape Meares and Netarts heads into the beach house community of Oceanside (pop. about 340). Many of the homes are built into the cliff overlooking the ocean, Sausalito style. This maze of very steep, very narrow streets reaches its apex atop Maxwell Point. You can peer several hundred feet down at Three Arch Rocks Wildlife Refuge, part-time home to one of the continent’s largest and most varied collections of shorebirds. A herd of sea lions also populates this trio of sea stacks from time to time.

There aren’t many lodging options in Oceanside. While low prices and a window on the water can be found at Ocean Front Cabins (1610 Pacific Ave., 503/842-6081 or 888/845-8470, $70-125), the older, smallish guest rooms here might give upscale travelers pause. Nonetheless, for as little as $70 for a sleeping unit without a kitchenette—or $125 for a two-bed room with a full kitchen—you’ll find yourself literally a stone’s throw from Oceanside’s beachcombing and dining highlights. Pets are accepted in some cabins.

For a more stylish lodging, consider Thyme and Tide B&B (5015 Grand Ave., 503/842-5527, $150-160), with two handsome rooms with ocean views and a location between Netarts and Oceanside.

Another good lodging option is Bender Vacation Rental Properties (503/233-4363), boasting six units with cliff-side ocean views, large private decks, and full kitchens (except for one unit). Other amenities include fireplaces, TVs, VCRs, and microwaves. Pets are welcome at most locations. For $80-125 per night with a two-night minimum, this is a great deal.

A popular draw for hungry Three Capes travelers, Roseanna’s Oceanside Cafe (1490 Pacific Ave. NW, 503/842-7351, 9am-9pm daily, call to confirm winter hours, $11-19) garners high marks from just about everyone. At first, the weatherbeaten cedar-shake exterior might lead you to expect an old general store, as indeed it was decades ago. Once you’re inside, however, the ornate decor leaves little doubt that this place takes its new identity seriously. From an elevated perch above the breakers, you’ll be treated to expertly prepared local oysters, fresh salmon, a bevy of chicken dishes, and interesting pastas, such as gorgonzola and pear with penne noodles. Be sure to save room for blackberry cobbler; order it warm so the Tillamook Vanilla Bean ice cream on top melts down the sides, and watch the waves over a long cup of coffee.