Great British escapes ... South Hams

Why go now?

This southernmost tip of Devon boasts some stunning unspoilt stretches of coastline, the pretty towns of Totnes and Salcombe, and the tranquil banks of the River Dart. Sleepy South Hams comes alive in summer: Salcombe regatta takes place from 9-15 August, while the more serious Royal Regatta brings crowds of yachting types to Dartmouth from 27-29 August and the town's medieval castle celebrates the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII's ascension to the throne with themed events for children every Monday and Tuesday in August (english-heritage.org.uk). Also worth a visit is Greenway House (01803 842382; nationaltrust.org); once owned by Agatha Christie, and open to the public for the first time this year.

Where to stay

An old coaching inn, the Royal Seven Stars (01803 862125; royalsevenstars.co.uk) has been at the heart of Totnes since the 17th century and has doubles from £98. Up at the top of the town, in Cistern Street, Number 12 (01803 840359; bedandbreakfasttotnes.com), boasts indulgent organic and vegetarian breakfasts, with doubles from £80 a night. For self-catering, Wigford Farm (01548 550444; wigfordfarm.co.uk) near Kingsbridge lets out a three-bedroom boho-chic wing from £500 a week. The White House (01548 580505; whitehousedevon.com) in Chillington, near Dartmouth, will service your boutique hotel needs, with doubles from £180.

Don't miss

Until the 20th century, people used the rivers and creeks that cut through the South Hams to get around and this is still the best way to get a feel for the area; there are numerous ferry and water taxi companies, especially in summer. A cruise along the Dart from Totnes to Dartmouth takes 75 minutes and costs £8 for adults, £5.50 for children; more information from 01803 834488; pdsr.co.uk. The Sharpham Estate (01803 732178; sharpham.com), down the river from Totnes, has a vineyard alongside an organic dairy farm and serves its wines and cheeses at its cafe, open until the end of September.

Where to eat

The White Hart at Dartington (01803 847100; dartingtonhall.org) has fully embraced the locally sourced mantra of the South Hams with local mussels, Devon-reared lamb and ice cream from Salcombe, plus views of the gardens. To really eat locally, however, book into a tour of Riverford Farm (01803 762074; riverford.co.uk); its acclaimed Field Kitchen serves organically grown food from the surrounding land. Heading to the beach, there are superior burgers and crab salads at the Venus Beach Cafe (venuscompany.co.uk) on Blackpool Sands, plus bargain cream teas (just £3.99) using locally produced clotted cream. Mitch Tonks's Seahorse Restaurant (01803 835147; seahorserestaurant.co.uk) in Dartmouth serves fresh-from-the-boat crab, lobster and cuttlefish. A set lunch costs £15 for two courses.

The perfect pub

In an idyllic village, the enticing Maltsters Arms (01803 732350; tuckenhay.com) in Tuckenhay on the River Dart has its own jetty and is big on open fires in winter and guest beers all year round. The white-washed Pigs Nose Inn (01548 511209; pigsnose.co.uk) in East Prawle, near Kingsbridge, is an all-weekend hangout, with regular bands, local cider, fish and chips and squashy sofas on the menu.

Retail therapy

Totnes is part market town, part hippie fest and Britain's first "transition town", dedicated to sustainable living. Shops range from the sensible (WH Smiths) to the new agey esoteric (Say It With Angels), plus a market which runs the gamut from plants to Glastonbury-wear on Fridays and Saturdays. At its centre, steep, winding Fore Street runs into the High Street; together they house handmade footwear at Green Shoes (01364 644036; greenshoes.co.uk), numerous boutiques with varying amounts of tie-dye clothing, and serious ceramics at White Space (01803 864088; whitespaceart.com). Greenlife (01803 866738; greenlife.co.uk) fulfils all your organic needs, including locally-produced Vital Touch essential oils.

Take a hike

Easy to do in stages and punctuated by welcoming pubs and beach cafes, the South West Coastal Path attracts thousands of walkers during the summer and takes in the former smugglers' villages of Outer and Inner Hope, the stunning arch at Thurlestone Rock and Burgh Island.

Alternatively, the circular 12-mile Avon Estuary walk starts and ends at the village of Bantham, with foot ferries across the Avon, wading birds and a pit stop en route at the Fishermen's Rest pub (01548 550284) or the Oyster Shack (01548 810876; oystershack.co.uk) in the picturesque village of Aveton Gifford.

Take the family

Dartington Summer School (dartington.org) is a posh take on Butlins. Running until 29 August, it offers courses in music from choral and chamber to rock and pop. Prices with full-board accommodation start from £495 for a week. Canoe Adventures (canoeadventures.co.uk) arranges trips along the Dart.

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