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Thursday, August 2, 2012

Detour Into Panty Land

Carving out time to work on the evening dress isn't especially easy. It's not one of those projects that I can throw into a tote bag and work on between teaching classes at the studio. I've discovered that lingerie is the perfect side project: quick, portable, easy, and satisfying. The only problem is that it's so fun to sew that it kind of takes over! (Side note: what's not easy about sewing undies is photographing them. Unless they're the tiniest of knickers, they look weird and huge in pictures. And then you go into this shame spiral of wondering why you're showing your underwear on the internet anyway.)

Yesterday I delved into the Betty High Waist Panties pattern from Ohhh Lulu. I know high-waisted undies aren't for everyone, but they give an amazing pin-up look for the vintage lover, don't you think?

Are you all aware of this brand? Sarah of Ohhh Lulu makes lovely retro lingerie that she sells on Etsy, and now she's released a line of sewing patterns. They're PDF patterns that get emailed to you. They're quick to print out and assemble since lingerie pattern pieces are so small.

I started out by making a muslin in stretch fabrics, just as the pattern suggests. (As a side note, there's also a short series of posts on making this pattern on the Ohhh Lulu blog. Check out her sew-along posts for lots of great info on sewing lingerie.) I made the large, which fit well in the hips and thighs but was too big in the waist. I also noticed that the silhouette wasn't as curvy as I wanted. After studying the pattern pieces a bit, I found my solution.

See how the side pieces here (in beige) are curved out? (Pic borrowed from the excellent Ohhh Lulu blog.)

This curve outward seems to counteract the curving in on the front and back panels, which resulted in a tube-like shape rather than an hourglass. (This is not a criticism of the pattern, by the way--just a personal preference!)

Here is my test version. I like the curves on the inner panel, but the side panels were creating lots of bagginess on my figure.

To get the shape I wanted, I needed to create some negative space between the panels, much like a dart. So I chopped off the outer curves on the side panels, and exaggerated the inner curve on the front panel. I also tapered from a large in the hips to somewhere closer to a medium in the waist.

My next two attempts were much better. I made a pair in white and pink mesh. I didn't have any cotton jersey to use for the crotch, so I begged an old white t-shirt from Jeff. Are there any sexier words than "Baby, can I have one of your old shirts to use as a crotch liner?" I think not.

Then I went to black mesh for the side panels and cotton jersey for the center, accented with a gingham bow.

I decided I still wanted more curviness on the front panel, so I adjusted the pattern some more and started this pink and black version.

Sewing panties is incredibly easy--it's just regular seams (which I serged), and then applying the picot elastic at the waist and legs (like I wrote about for my age-old slip tutorial). Once you get into it, a pair can be made in well less than an hour--and that includes cutting!

I've also been teaching myself how to make bras in all my spare time. Here's my latest "muslin," made from the Pin-Up Girls Classic Bra pattern. More to come on that once I make a wearable version!

I know pictures of panties aren't easy to take and may cause brain trauma, but thank you for doing it. I love lingerie posts and I've recently bought a high waisted pair of panties that are shape wear with a retro feel. I feel sexy in them although they aren't my husbands preference. 99% of of the time I'm the one feeling sexy knowing what's under there so he can just deal with it. Yours are lovely and I think the panel effect would be quite slimming.I can't wait to hear your bra post. I have made a few Elan bras and one Kwik Sew that just is not my shape at all (nothing wrong with the pattern, they just were not designing for my breasts). I'd like to hear more about your experiences.

I have both the classic and partial band Pinup Girls bra patterns. I love them! I also have a pattern I made from a Cosabella bra. Merckwaerdigh also has some interesting styles. There's a new company called make Bra but I haven't tried any of their patterns yet.

I agree with you about photographing panties, if they have any sort of coverage they look HUGE. I still post them anyway because other people find it very useful to see a real-life version.

I am sewing this as I write this! I also had problems with the curved seams and had to make adjustments (thank god I made a muslin!). Because I'm not hippy at all, I reduced the curvature on the front/back panels as well as the side panel (more on the side panel).

Nope! You can definitely do it on a regular sewing machine. For the seams, you can use a mock overlock stitch or a narrow zigzag. Some people also suggest using a straight stitch, but stretch the fabric slightly as you sew, so that the seams retain some elasticity. Try a few samples on your fabric and see what works best for you!

I've made OhhhLulu's ruffle panties (which are a dream to wear), but haven't done the high-waisted ones yet - give me about 10 years and a hubby who won't care what's on me! And I also used one of his old t-shirts for the crotch! Haha! I've also made bras with Anna Depew's Pauline Bra pattern and am looking for another pattern just to switch up the style a bit. But nothing is more comfortable than lingerie that really fits you!

I love this pattern. I have made it up a few times already. I think it is sized very well. I even made one pair that is a regular/bikini-ish waistline by simply shortening the pattern pieces by about 4 inches. I love them! And my homemade underwear are much better quality than any I have bought in a long, long time, even though I am totally new to lingerie sewing. I posted a bunch of questions on Sarah's sew along posts, and she was very helpful and had lots of good tips. I'd love to see her get enough support that she could quit her day job and make lovely lingerie all day long! :)

I've never worked with knit before. Would this be a good intro? I don't have a serger either but love hand sewing so serger may be optional with knits. I'm hoping so anyway.I think your changes make for a sexy looking panty because the emphasis on that hourglass shape is emphasised more. I like it.

These are adorable! It's nice to have some quick makes to when you've got a long one on the table eh (gosh that sounded a bit saucy hehehe) I love the little bows and the contrast panels, very, very sweet.

OhhhLulu is just starting a sew-a-long for swimsuits if you go check out her blog. You can pretty much make any style of undergarment into swimwear if you use the correct type of fabric & notions - anything that dries quickly, is stretchy & chlorine resilient.

its really great to hear what you've done to change the pattern. I think that they still look super pretty in pictures! No one wants to post pics of them wearing panties, so we make do and admire the flat piccies and imagine how theyd look teehehe

Those knickers look great, I love high-waisted ones, so comfortable. I'm very tempted to try making a pair now, glad to know that this is a good pattern. I think I would probably have to take them in at the waist too, but I feel much more confident about that now, after seeing you adapting the pattern so fearlessly! Another inspirational post, thank you xx

Well, I am glad to see this post from you, Gertie, as I've been eyeing that pattern for a couple of weeks now. Yours are very pretty indeed (plus it is interesting to see your changes, as I'd probably have to adjust them too). Thanks for posting this!

I love big pants, and I like them to fit snugly under the buttocks at the bottom, rather than cutting up over them. It's more comfortable and gives a better line under clothing. How does this pattern do in this respect? One of my upcoming projects is a wiggle dress (for which I shall be referring to your blog often!) and I will defo need some well fitting, beautiful, big pants for underneath. I think some adjustments will be required though. I have 41" hips and a 28" waist. :-D Who knows, I might be tempted to make a bra or two as well! :-)

These are beautiful - I love high waisted knickers! I wa just wondering where you get your lingerie fabrics. I live in the UK and have no idea where to go, but would happily buy from the US. Love the pix you released from your book...can't wait for the UK release!

Oh, my! Gertie, you are a caution and a genius! I love that you had me, for a split second, thinking, "Hey! I'm gonna stitch me up some pin-up panties!" Reality check: if you make some mediums & put 'em on your etsy site, I'm in! ;) They are DARLING!!!!!

Oh Gertie.... I should NOT have read this! I've been trying to stay away from making my own undies, but these are just too freaking adorable. I'm torn between being happy my sewing machines are packed for my move and wanting to unpack them so I can whip out a few pairs.

I am exactly the same - my main machine SHOULD have been packed away a few weeks ago but I keep pulling it out "just to make one more skirt". I think it's lucky I would have to borrow my partners credit card to buy the patterns, and I don't have any of the supplies, or there would be half made knickers all over my sister-in-laws house (where we're staying while waiting to move)

US folk are just super, but there is something about the word 'panties' that makes those of us from other English speaking nations cringe.Would you all consider stopping calling them that?Here in Australia, they are underpants (both men and women call their nether garments that). British women just call them pants and don't use that word for trousers, jeans etc.Not sure, but I think kiwis call them undies.So would you consider changing?And what words do we use that that you hate?

Are there any sexier words than "Baby, can I have one of your old shirts to use as a crotch liner?" I think not.

LOLOLOL! Oh, that is awesome. Really, though, worn-out old t-shirts are incredibly soft. Now I know what to do with my old t-shirts: make crotch liners for panties!

Okay, so my sewing skills have a ways to go before I can sew knits and curved seams. But it's fun to think about. And I love your next post, too; the "one way ticket" to Panty Land just makes me giggle. :-)

Great post! It's wonderful to see that a person really can sew her own drawers (as we say here in the Deep South).

Love those large panties that fit where they're supposed to, at the waist. I can't stand thongs, boy shorts (awkward), g-strings. It's far better to leave more to the imagination and which convey a sense of innocence. Retro undies, or the real thing, are far sexier. I have particular fondness for the styles of the 1930 and 40s, including tap panties, side button panties, cuff (or band) leg rayon or nylon briefs, flare legs, shorty bloomers, with romantic touches of ribbon and lace. For comfort, I also like my cotton or nylon cuff leg Lollipop briefs, either for daywear or to sleep in.