Book Review: Street Food by Susan Feniger

Reviewed by Karen Miles

I love exuberant food. And that's why Susan Feniger's Los Angeles restaurant, Street, is on my bucket list. In the meantime, here in the middle of the country, I'm mesmerized by her cookbook of street food from all over the world. Subtitled "irresistibly crispy, creamy, crunchy, spicy, sticky, sweet recipes," the book delivers recipes from street stands and home kitchens in Vietnam, India, Korea, Scandinavia, Burma, Tunisia, Ukraine, and many other countries. Susan also includes fascinating travelogue pages, in which she reports on her food excursions to Ho Chi Minh City, Kochi, Bezirgan, and Mongolian Steppes.

"I believe that in any country, what you see and taste on the street is the best food you'll find, because it's usually one family's recipe handed down and perfected over generations. There aren't any frills; there's no service; all the focus is on the food," Susan tells us. Here's a tiny sampling of the recipes you'll find while perusing the book:

Irresistibly bursting with flavor, right? Yes, many of the ingredient lists and directions are relatively long, but I'm enticed—and a firm believer that food doesn't have to be "quick and easy" to earn a spot on the home menu. Besides, we're not talking fussy food prep. "There's no daintiness in street cooking; there's rolling up your sleeves and getting involved in a new culture with brand-new flavors and lots of joy," Susan explains. I can do that. I want to do that!

Speaking of exuberant, I hope Susan is at Street if I ever get there. Judging by the pictures of her in the book, she'll be laughing out loud and thoroughly enjoying herself.

Here are three recipes from Susan Feniger's Street Food for you to try: