Featured video

Description: A synthetic narcotic, fentanyl has been detected in an increasing number of illicit drug overdose deaths in Metro Vancouver. Many of the people who died were recreational and/or occasional users and don’t appear to have known they were ingesting fentanyl, as it is easily hidden in other drugs.

Spectacular Antarctica demands respect

The southern continent is where Mother Nature rules

Can you imagine not being able to land if you want to get up close and personal with penguins? The 100 signatories of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators helps preserve Antarctica's environmental integrity through conservation controls. To reduce impact on delicate ecosystems, IAATO-member vessels carrying more than 500 passengers do not make landings.

ON BOARD THE MV FRAM IN THE WEDDELL SEA - Good morning, ladies and gentlemen. Today we hope to reach the South Orkney Islands, but sea ice may prevent us from our goal. We'll need to be flexible. I'll give more information soon."

This was one of expedition leader Anja Erdmann's daily announcements to passengers aboard the MV Fram. She and Capt. Arild Hårvik apprised us of weather conditions, wildlife sightings and photo opportunities during Norwegian cruise company Hurtigruten's Antarctic expedition last December.

Ice covering the Weddell Sea proved impassable, so Hårvik did reroute the Fram. We explored the western Antarctic Peninsula, sailing through the narrow, iceberg-jammed Lemaire Channel to our southernmost destination of Vernadsky, a Ukrainian research station.

This aptly demonstrated that even 100 years after Ernest Shackleton left Britain bound for Antarctica on his doomed ship Endurance, Mother Nature still rules the frozen continent.

Erdmann was right: embracing flexibility was wise - which is precisely why Hurtigruten identifies its voyages to Earth's southernmost continent as "expeditions," not cruises. Cruises follow published itineraries, but expeditions offer no guarantees. And in Antarctica, a vessel's ability to approach destinations is dependent upon shifting ice and unruly seas.

This isn't theoretical. Remember Christmas Eve? The Russian ship Akademik Shokalskiy was trapped by sea ice, as well as its supposed rescuer, the Chinese icebreaker Xue Long. Happily, this did not happened during Fram's expedition - but it could have.

We chose Hurtigruten's 19-day expedition to learn about the still largely unknown continent. The longer voyage also let us experience the sub-Antarctic islands of the Falklands, South Georgia and South Orkneys.

Eight on-board scientists delivered informative, illustrated talks during five at-sea days, deepening everyone's understanding of Antarctica's environment, animals, geology, and work being conducted at international research stations on topics such as climate change.

Nonetheless, Antarctica's remoteness presents challenges. Assessing and preparing for them is what makes expeditions memorable - in a good way. It's wise to research options and weigh risks.

Size matters

Can you imagine not being able to land if you want to get up close and personal with penguins? The 100 signatories of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators helps preserve Antarctica's environmental integrity through conservation controls. To reduce impact on delicate ecosystems, IAATO-member vessels carrying more than 500 passengers do not make landings.

Tip: Research the companies to understand landing constraints.

Unruly seas

The larger the vessel, the smoother the voyage. Fram is classified as a mid-size ship, so although it's very safe and comfortable, stormy seas affect it. Everyone was worried about the Drake Passage, where, according to Friederike Bronny, swells can reach 20 metres. "I'd not want to experience that again," our on-board bird specialist confided. "Mind you, that was a hurricane."

Right. And because Mother Nature rules, hurricanes could occur. Our voyage was relatively calm, but we did experience 12 hours or so of seven-metre swells.

Research what clothing and equipment tour operators provide. For Antarctic excursions such as kayaking and camping, most have specialized gear for extreme weather. We never used our winter parka and hiking boots. Instead, Hurtigruten's "souvenir" hooded waterproof jackets allowed us to manage layers of clothing, and the neoprene boots we rented on board were superb for wet landings and hikes.

On their recommended clothing checklist, waterproof pants became indispensable because they kept us dry and cosy.

Even in fine weather, all this waterproofing was important. Staff occasionally had to hose passengers down while boarding Fram to rid us of penguin poop after onshore excursions to see these birds.

Be realistic about your physical abilities. Landings involve stepping from a stable ship into small tender boats that sometimes can be tossed up, down and sideways by waves. The firm hulls and sturdy handrails of Fram's tenders were much easier to manage than other inflatable tenders we've experienced. Once ashore, activities ranged from gentle strolls through villages such as Falkland's Port Stanley, to hiking thrilling (read: steep) inclines with sometimes icy footing or deep (kneehigh) snow, kayaking alongside icebergs, camping overnight - or swimming in the Antarctic Ocean.

A cautionary tale - particularly while taking down our tents at Neko Harbour.

That morning we witnessed another glacier calve, then saw an avalanche plunge down a cliff opposite our campsite.

Tip: Emergency airlifts to hospitals from Antarctica are exorbitantly expensive. Comprehensive travel health insurance is prudent - and may be mandatory.

Antarctic expeditions? Risk the adventure of your lifetime While on South Georgia, a Norwegian couple revealed this was their third trip to Antarctica with Fram. Why, I asked? "You'll see for yourself. Perhaps you'll be enchanted, too."

Can you imagine not being able to land if you want to get up close and personal with penguins? The 100 signatories of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators helps preserve Antarctica's environmental integrity through conservation controls. To reduce impact on delicate ecosystems, IAATO-member vessels carrying more than 500 passengers do not make landings.

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.