Sneaker wave warning issued

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A sign warns North Jetty area visitors about sneaker waves and other ocean hazards. - Shaun Walker — The Times-Standard

The waves were already big and rough on Thursday afternoon. - Shaun Walker — The Times-Standard

Three people get up close on the harbor entrance wall to watch the waves on Thursday. The waves should be even bigger on Friday, with the possibility of dangerous, even bigger sneaker waves. - Shaun Walker — The Times-Standard

A large storm off the Aleutian Islands is creating a swell that may cause breakers as high as 20 feet on the North Coast throughout the weekend and has the potential to cause sneaker waves on local beaches.

“It’s going to first arrive Friday, build rapidly Friday into Saturday, and as it’s building, we could see sneaker waves,” Eureka National Weather Service meteorologist Kathleen Lewis said. “Friday night to Saturday evening we’re going to see large breakers.”

Lewis said waves could reach as high as 20 feet at the peak of the swell this evening through Saturday. Further into the weekend the swell will start to diminish, but 10-foot breakers could continue into early next week.

During the swell, beach visitors should avoid northwest-facing beaches, such as Big Lagoon. Lewis said people should also be aware of where they are on the beach and should never turn their back to the ocean to avoid potentially getting pulled in.

“Stay off of rocks, stay off the jetty and stay off of any outcroppings into the ocean because waves can be unpredictable,” Lewis said.

In addition to the dangerous swells, rain and wind are expected over the Pacific Northwest through Sunday. Some mountain locations could see more than 10 inches of rain and wind speeds up to 50 miles per hour.

“We’re going to get some rain this weekend,” Lewis said.

Saturday will likely stay dry throughout the day, with only a slight chance of showers, but rain is expected in the evening and into Sunday. Lewis said another bout of rain is possible on Monday and likely Monday night.

Winds on the coast are expected to be between 5 and 7 miles per hour Saturday with temperatures between the low 60s during the day and high 40s at night. The NWS currently forecasts a chance of showers through Thursday.