If you want the parts list call Todd at Heyward Allen Pontiac GMC in Athens Ga. Please give the guy a chance to sell you the parts, he gave me a lot of help on this and was the only one that would! I lost my receipt that had the whole list and when I called him for a new one it occurred to me he should help others and hopefully make a buck or two.
As for the reverse lockout problem, I will ask Rob what he did tomorrow and post it cause mine works.
Poseidon is Steve right? I tried to call you back, hit me again tomorrow sometime

One and the same. I have been preparing for and in a conference all this week and I haven't had time to even think about the car. I am taking pictures of all of the parts as they arrive. Once I am done and know everything fits, I will post my writeup on both boards.

I was attempting to use as many parts from a 2010 SS Camaro as I could. It looks like most of the ancillary parts will work. The major assumption for my build is that I didn't want any custom parts. Everything should fit if you buy it from the GXP. Here is my current run down of stuff that swaps and stuff that doesn't:

Transmission: Use the GXP one. I could possibly have used the Camaro trans, but I didn't want to fab up the trans mounts, shifter linkages, and driveshaft to make it all custom.

Shifter: Camaro works, just get one with an aftermarket shaft (Hurst, MGW, etc), something with the press on connection, not the threaded one

Pedals: Direct swap from the Camaro. Save yourself some time and make sure to get the clutch wiring harness from the donor. These are $55 to replace!

Driveshaft: I am using the GXP one. It is about 1.25-1.5" shorter (when fully compressed) than the stock G8 shaft. However, it may be possible to use the stock driveshaft. I will attempt this combination when I get everything in place, but I am concerned about it 'bottoming out' if I hit some railroad tracks or something

Clutch Master / Slave: The stock Camaro ones should work, though I have one of the upgraded Master cylinders and a slave cylinder from the ZL1 clutch kit

Clutch: ZL1 clutch. This is a dual disk setup that is supposed to have great street manners. Also comes with the 6 bolt pattern for the flywheel which we need for our cars.

Clutch reservoir: get one of the GTO ones the Camaro guys are using. Cheap and readily available.

Transmission support member: These were $40 when I bought mine but my parts supplier said the GM price is over $300 now. This should be a temporary thing. Again, this is because I wanted to be sure the driveline was in the proper position/angle and that everything would bolt up.

Wiring: 1) Key removal - simple jumper needed on the connector that goes to the automatic shifter. 2) Reverse lights - probably going to have to fab up a mount for a micro switch for this. This connector is also on the same connector for the automatic. It just needs a signal. 3) T-56 connectors - buy the set of vehicle speed sensors, reverse lockout solenoid, and skip shift solenoid connectors off eBay. They are $30 with shipping. I will post the wiring diagram in my final writeup. 4) Clutch connector - you got the connector from the donor car right? If not, go on eBay and get one, or you can get one from several other donor cars (corvette, volt, malibu, etc. Basically anything within the last few years old). Wiring diagram will also be posted later. 5) TCM - need to jumper two sets of pins on the TCM connector. This, combined with a proper tune, should make it so you don't need to have parts of the automatic transmission grafted into the car.

Tune - I am getting my tune from a Holden VE using the EFI live Autocal. Supposedly, this should make it so that the computer stops looking for the TCM and as long as you jumpered the wires above, you should be golden. This is also required so that the logic for the reverse lockout and skip shift (if you want it) are enabled in the tune.

I think that is enough for now. It will be about another two weeks before I will know anything else. After giving it my all, I decided that the Camaro trans just wasn't going to work for me. So I am going to get the GXP transmission so I can make sure everything works. I would say wish me luck, but we all already know this can be done.

I don't want to step on any toes, but my parts guy is putting together a conversion package with all new parts for ~$4500 without the clutch/flywheel. You can probably save quite a bit if you source the things that you can off other vehicles. The trans by itself is about $3k though.

Thanks for the info.. already save it on wish list...........Please keep us updated... I saw a camaro tremec 6060 but I'm not so sure that the bellhousing is going to fit, besides that, is there other diferences in the transmition ( camaro vs GXP )?

Camaro trans turned out to be too much work for me. The entire bell housing is about an inch too long which also caused fitment issues with the input shaft. And it threw off all of the mounting points for the shifter, trans support, and would have needed a custom driveshaft. So I sold it and bought the gxp trans. Still waiting to finish it but I am working in finishing the basement first. It will probably be snowing when I drive it for the first time.

I wanna keep this thread open, becuase I am going to tackle this project myself.....I wanna road race the car and the Auto just isnt gonna cut it with big power...I will PM the op and hopefully get some help, im wondering if hes still on the roads today with this setup/

Hi all, I'm a forum mod from a VE (G8) forum in Australia. Another mod on our forum found this link to a workshop manual for the VE.
This may be of assistance or not I'm not sure whether our cars are exactly the same as yours in the US. That being said I'm pretty sure it's for a V6 as well.
Anyway here is the link from our forum: http://www.clubve.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=589
It's a 186MB in size.
Hope it helps.
Cheers.

Yea, i am still on the road, when i am not breaking parts...dont go with too much big power lol. There are two other guys on here working on this setup right now so, i wont be the only one for long.

The VE is the same but, the V6 model is as different to ours as our V6 model is so if Steveo and get a V8 manual you would really have something! I didnt have anything like that when i did mine. The wiring is actually the hardest part so, wiring diagrams are important and getting the manual VE tune is a good thing (i still dont have it though...)

Thanks for the update, Dave, good to see that you're still following your legendary thread and helping others in the process.

What parts have you been breaking, and what level of power are you at currently? I see TVS1900 so I would think you're around 500, but has it been on the dyno or to the track recently? Inquiring minds want to know!

Before I put the Meth kit on it (much improved by the way!) it was making 650 at the tires, I think with the meth its a little more but, I am at the ragged edge of what you are going to get out of a 1900.. best i ran at the track was a 11.2 as an auto with issues and I havent been back with it as a manual with the right clutch yet. I dont know if i mentioned it on here or not but, the ZR1 clutch can not handle this power level in this heavy of a car. I now have a McCleod clutch that does very well though.
My last parts breakage was (drum roll please lol) as the first race of the day at a half mile event in north Georgia, I broke the CV in my G FORCE axle... shifting to second no less... its back now the guys at G force fixed it and just as my luck always goes, said they hadnt seen one break that way. (i could break an anvil...)

Yes, it has been a LONG time coming, but this is a hobby and it is my play car, so I can get away with it After trying to mess around with wiring the car, I decided that it is far easier (and relatively cheaper) to just buy a new wiring harness from a GXP manual. It comes with all of the trans wiring connectors already connected and all I should have to do is pull the old harness off and lay the new harness in. The bonus is if I ever decide to go back to the auto, I haven't mess with the integrity of the harness and should be able to switch it back easily.

So far the only non-reversible thing I had to do to the car was cut the hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal assembly.

So I should have that in this week and if my basement remodeling goes well this weekend, I should have time to work on the car next weekend. I thought about getting a new ECM too, but PatG in TX sent me a tune from a Holden which should work on my car and not require me to jumper any of the GM LAN pins for the automatic trans.

From the tuner, if I wire everything up correctly, the reverse light should work based on the signal from the trans gear selector. That's the theory anyway, we'll see how it all works out. I want to make it so you can't tell the car didn't come with this already done.

You need to be more clear. Which entire assembly? The trans shifter like shown above or another part?
The T56 uses an internal rail shifter that won't work with the G8 so you need to convert it to remote shift transmission. It can be done but I'm not 100% sure what needs to be changed. You may also need a new tail shaft for the new shifter mounting location.tr6060parts.jpg

Any dealer can get the parts.
The T56 mag is not the TR6060. It is close but not the same. The TR6060 has a fluid pump for an oil cooler yours does not. The T56 is internal rail shifted the TR6060 is remote shifted like I already said.

GM will be selling the complete ZL1 shifter under part number 19299460, but it won't fit the G8 console.

I think you would be better off buying a GXP TR6060 and selling your T56 magnum if you are wanting to put it into a G8.

The donor Camaro trans I bought came with a Katech ZR1 conversion kit but since it was built for the Camaro, the clutch housing (not sure if there is a better term) is too thick to use with the GXP trans. Even tried using the ZR1 slave since it is about an inch shorter than the GXP slave and it wouldn't fit. So I just ordered a Monster lvl 3 single disk which is 1) designed for the GXP and 2) still makes it so the wife can drive it.

Should be in next week, then I can see if I got all of the electrics working correctly.

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