With Kathy and Norma - took the chockstone chute and stayed on rock as much as possible. I found the chute very pleasant that way. Climb from notch was the best! Class 4 sections too short :( but most enjoyable. We rapped from each rap station for sake of time and safety. Of the 24 mtns I've climbed this year, THIS is my fave!

Great climb! A 60m rope for rappeling would have been better than the 30m we carried even though there was an intermediate rappel station already set up (the second rap station ran the rope over a semi-sharp rock). No rope necessary for the climb up.

With Sierra Mountaineering Group, climbed E. Arete from Longley Reservoir, taking the alternate start up the snow couloir to the notch just below the peaklet. Ascended the standard route from there to summit and descended the North Couloir. Excellent rock, not too hard, summit pitch was the most fun.

Climbed Peaklet from the east (unpleasant scree), then attempted to traverse the entire ridge to Humphreys. Stopped at two prominent towers, which would've required a 5th class downclimb harder than I cared to try. Had to retrace my steps a bit, downclimb, then make a long scree traverse to the saddle. Climbed the East Arete mostly on the crest, then took the gully between Humphreys and the prominent tower down. A little over 5 hrs to the summit from the car, maybe a bit under 3 hrs from the saddle to the summit. Ok route, not that classic though.

An excellent solo trip up the southwest chutes and NW face. Near the chockstone I cut left and went up the next chute/ridge over. Fairly solid footing and even some good class 3 climbing up to the notch, then the highlights from there to the summit. Somewhat sunny on top but started hailing on the way down.

Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.

Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.

Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.

Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.