Peated Tobermory has started to gain quite a following. There have been some outstanding young sherried Ledaigs doing the rounds so lets try a couple.

Ledaig 9yo Retro Label (56.5%, The Whisky Exchange, c.2015)Colour: ChestnutNose: Vegetal peat. Wet, muddy gravel. With time some gentle licorice and salty seaweed coming through, followed by the sweet menthol notes that I’ve come to love in Laphroaig. Also something savory and bready – Yorkshire puddings?Mouth: Huge. Sweet arrival quickly gives way to a wave of peat. Then cured ham, cloves, cranberry jam, and salty chicken stock. This one drowns easily, but this perfectly enjoyable neat so no hardship.Finish: Rather long. Mince pies, cream and cigarette smoke.Conclusion: Commentators are starting to compare Ledaig to Ardbeg and I have to say this made me think of Uigeadail. This is reminding me of a full Christmas dinner, despite the fact it’s August! 89 points. SAVOR

Ledaig 10 Year Old 2004 (cask 900178) Artist #5 (60.7%, La Maison du Whisky, c.2016)This one has come from a single first fill sherry butt.Colour: MahoganyNose: This is quite a contrast to the TWE bottling. As the colour suggests the sherry notes are much more prominant here. It’s quite nipping on the nose. Blackcurrants, figs, dates A dominant cask. I don’t think the spirit stand up to it.Mouth: Rich, sweet sherry, cherries drowned in alcohol. The peat plays second to the sherry. Still a bit hot after 10 years but sadly drowns easily.Finish: Quite short.Conclusion: It lacks the complexity of the TWE bottling. The sherry has won here. 84 points. SAMPLE

A three course meal of a whisky, it rewards your patience and attention. Ledaig 9yo Retro Label goes well with BadBadNotGood.