After being a regular lurker for the past 3 years, I have finally commited to begining my project.

The goal of my project is to retain the look and feel of an old Galaxian cab, yet be able to play as many games and consoles as possible given the size of the cabinet and control panel. I was really drawn to the shape and artwork of this cab, and plan to keep with the feel and look as much as possible.

This weekend at the Mesquite, TX Super Auctions I picked up the base cabinet for $150. I was originally going to build this unit from scratch, but I feel a bit better having a good starting base for this project as opposed to figuring it all out as I go along.

The cabinet contains a full set of "innards", but will not boot playable. The game has a disturbing speaker hum, but does make game sounds as if the board has booted but the CRT does not come to life.

As for appearance, the sides have minimal chipping around the edges, and are more or less good to go. The front kickplate has waterdamage at the bottom, and some extraneous bolts for coindoor security that need addressed. The coindoor has some slight rust, and some extra holes to be patched, but overall will be a good candidate for reconditioning. The back is actually the most chipped up. Again, it's the back, and me being "particular" will surely fix that as well. The side art is not bad, but not pristine, so I plan to get reproduction art printed and mounted after I sand down the unit. The glasses are in pretty good shape. There are no cracks that I have found yet, and the glass art, while not "spanking new" looks well kept.

One of the main customizations I will be performing to the cabinet is to replace the old CRT with a bright new LCD monitor. Inspired by Edge's rotation LCD system, I plan to use a similar setup to allow me to play vertical and horizontal games with as much screen realestate as possible. I am not concerned about keeping "Old school feel" of the blury screens, but I do want to conceal the new technology inside the design of the old cabinet so it does not stick out like a soar thumb. I will be keeping the original monitor slant of the cab, and am aware of LCD viewing angle warning as well. This paragraph is loaded because I'm pretty sure to get some hatemail from this choice.

Now for some pictures. This is how It rolled back from the auction, and I leave you with my original 3d mockup. I will likely change the 3d mockup as I go along, including the number of buttons and controls now that I have something "real" to guage comfortable playing area.

Today I decided to begin by removing the innards. The cab is as dirty as one would expect a cabinet made 20+ years ago to be. Honestly, I've seen worse photos on this forum. This being said, there was obvious some mold smells coming out, and the wife was sure to let me know that it's not coming inside until I rectify the issue. I need to search these forums and see what others are doing about that other then painting with a thick latex base.

Removing the insides was not as scary as I had imagined, and I was able to do it all myself. I read the warnings about monitor discharging. I used latex rubber gloves, and removed it by touching only the metal frame. The CRT now sits on a tarp with the remainder of the elements from the disection. I don't plan on using any of this stuff except for the glasses and coin door, maybe some of the wires, switches and fasteners.

After removing some excess staples, scraping off some sloppy glue drippings, and sanding a layer of dust, mold and gunk I am left with a cabinet begging for some bondo and an electric sander. I'm pretty sure I'm going to leave the front kickplate and the bottom back pieces in tact, and see how some clamping and bondo work out. I think i saw some threads on the board about fixing this type of damage without cutting new wood. Just the bottoms are chewed, the wood seems relatively strong.

The coolest part of today was removing the power block to discover some handwriting on the cabinet floor. Looks like this cab has always been a Galaxian and I am not yet sure of what Bolloms is. Could be the manufacturing plant and the production number from that lot, I don't know. Fun history I would like to keep with the finished cab.

From the looks of that mockup you have waaay too much time on your hands.

Yeah, I really want to keep this thing looking largly stock. Hiding the keyboard tray seems like a good start. The reason for the complex CAD is because I do it all day, seemed only right to plan it out completely before buying materials and what not. Like I said before, originally I was going to do this all from scratch. Guess we'll see how this turns out.

1. The CRT would not turn on when I powered up the cab. My lack of skill found nothing obvious as to why not. Fuses and connections seemed good.2. Galaxian has a vertical monitor orientation, and I want to play a lot of horizontal games as well as vertical ones.3. So therefore, I plan to rotate the LCD to play vertical games, and LCDs are lighter and set up to do this by default.

The 3D mockup above is animated when you enlarge it. I've animated it to show my intensions.

This weekend isn't probably going to allow me much time to work on the cabinet due to some work related events. That being said, I am thinking forward about the parts and controls I plan to buy. I am probably going to begin purchasing so I feel as though I'm moving foward for next weekend.

bondo to repair chewed up base, coindoor bolts, and ventilation holes on back.

parts nessary for motorized LCD rotation

t-modling, which I haven't even began to think about at this point

Now that I have a tenative shopping list comes the questions which I know everyone here can answer:

1. Is there anything in the interface list I should be concerned with in regards to confliction or items you've had major issues with? Seems like this combination of items has been proven to work together.

2. Is the KeyWiz Max overkill for my 2 player control panel (image below)? If so, what should I get instead to have it still work with the above outlined parts?

3. I'd like to light my 2.25" trackball, what do I need to do this assuming I plan use GGG lighting and a Happs TB. Is there a better "higher resolution" 2.25" trackball I should be using?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. Now for my proposed CP layout. Note that I've left .75" along the bottom clear because I believe that's how the wooden front connects to the top panel. Feel free to suggest alternative setups as well.

23" is a tight squeeze for two grown men to gather around. My nintendo cabinet was 22.5" and it just wasn't big enough to play 2 player games comfortably. I ended up making it a single player 4 way vertical mame machine.

Now for my proposed CP layout. Note that I've left .75" along the bottom clear because I believe that's how the wooden front connects to the top panel. Feel free to suggest alternative setups as well.

That CP layout is way too tight. You're not allowing for the bolts and hardware on the side that fasten the CP to the sides of the cab (the latches that allow the CP to be removed). Aside from it being super cramped in general unless you have a new way to attach the panel to the cab than stock it's just plain won't fit. I think you'd better get used to the idea of losing the trackball, 23" just isn't wide enough.

You're not allowing for the bolts and hardware on the side that fasten the CP to the sides of the cab (the latches that allow the CP to be removed). Aside from it being super cramped in general unless you have a new way to attach the panel to the cab than stock it's just plain won't fit.

I was planning on using Lid Hinges, having them attach at the back of the control panel insead of on the sides like stock comes with. Any thoughts about this idea? I'll need to order these, can't find them at the HomeDepot.

Not sure how stable that would be, have to see your whole layout and the hinges.

It's your cab, do your thing, but IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

I agree entirely with this sentiment.

There isn't a lot of room for anybody other than me in front of my Galaga, let alone another set of controls AND a trackball. Swappable panels may be a better solution.

IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

I agree entirely with this sentiment.

There isn't a lot of room for anybody other than me in front of my Galaga, let alone another set of controls AND a trackball. Swappable panels may be a better solution.

Cheers.

CSA3d,

I confirm with CheffoJeffo and the others (I said the same thing higher up). Swappable panels is a good solution, but if your convinced you can make it work - do a mock up and see how it actually feels. How it looks is 1 thing, but how it feels is really what matters.

No big updates today. I'm awaiting a check in the mail which is holding up some purchases.

In the meantime, I've taken into account the comments that there just isn't room for a full set of two player controls given 23" of space. Therefore, I've decided to make it Robotron, Arcanoid, and Centipede friendly. I've included Player 2 admin buttons for any other games that fall into the "multiple players take turns" category.

I still plan to use the above hinges and have measured them to fit in the above layout. Below is a mockup of the art I'm planning to put on the top of the control panel. It's 80% vectorized and to scale with spacing of my control components. I'd love to get feedback before I finalize the vector work.

All comments to date have been helpful minus the ones who think I'm being sacreligious I expected to be flamed more then what I have to date to be honest. Hopefully with the addition of this image, it will be more apparent that I'm really just looking swap out the internals more then destroy a good cabinet. I very much want to keep it largely original.

I ask because if you could squeeze a button in on the player 2 side - you could play Joust and Mario Bros. Not sure what other games, but I imagine there might be a couple. If you squeezed 3 buttons you could do Track n Field, Hyper Sports, BC Story, and Boot camp.

if you could squeeze a button in on the player 2 side - you could play Joust and Mario Bros. Not sure what other games, but I imagine there might be a couple. If you squeezed 3 buttons you could do Track n Field, Hyper Sports, BC Story, and Boot camp.

Intersting.. I think I'll try shoving two buttons vertically in the green area to the right of player 2's stick. That way I can play all two player NES games, puzzle bobble, klax.. and other puzzle games my wife might enjoy. Good idea.

Do you need the 6 buttons for Player 1? Couldn't you do like a staggered 3 to squeeze a little more room for Player 2?Or you could put the pinball buttons on the side of the CP, and on the Player 2 side, you can have one button stacked on top of the other for the second player to use as their two buttons.

I've not really got into the whole pinmame idea yet. I'm fairly certain I won't be putting buttons on the side of the control panel, as that would mean placing random buttons on the exterior walls of the cab. My goal is to keep the Galaxian cab as "stock" looking as possible minus the new control panel and the LCD technology.

Do you need the 6 buttons for Player 1? Couldn't you do like a staggered 3 to squeeze a little more room for Player 2?Or you could put the pinball buttons on the side of the CP, and on the Player 2 side, you can have one button stacked on top of the other for the second player to use as their two buttons.

I'm keeping six buttons for Player 1 as I am a fighter fan. I also would like to be able to play as many console systems as possible, so I think I'm fairly happy with Player 1's controls.

I have began to mock up 2 buttons on P2's side, I'll post them shortly.

- Added 2 buttons to Player 2 side- Added Pause button for player 2- Moved "Mame" logo- Repositioned Player# labels (still not extremely sold on either location)- Cleaned up from vector work- Swapped positions of spinner and trackball

Things I'm keeping in mind:

- Joysticks are about 3.75" away from either side "wall", which seems about as close as one would want for comfort- Joysticks are positioned about 15.5" apart, which I think is a good Robotron distance. Any closer wouuld feel confined in my opinion.

Your black buttons seem to be lost in the black of the CP art. What if you used black plungers with lime green rings? I think it would make the admin buttons really stand out. You can also use green buttons with black rings as your primary buttons. I don't know how it would look, but I'm curious.

I am pretending I did not see this thread....I am pretending I did not see this thread....I am pretending I did not see this thread....I am pretending I did not see this thread....I am pretending I did not see this thread....I am pretending I did not see this thread....

I'm sorry but: This is WRONG !

Gutting a COMPLETE Galaxian to turn it into a Mame thing with.....in heaven's name....a LCD

Like a steamtrain-engine powered with en electrical motor.....I'm sorry

As you can see from the control panel mockup, I'm going for a mame design that attempts to fit into the original artwork style and use the original control panel dimensions and measurements. I have not cut the cab shell in a funky way, added any extended panels, nor chopped up the inside in any way that is not irreversable. There are no nean strobe holes cut, etc.

The LCD is what it is. It will allow me to do what I'm after, which is screen rotation. Doing that with an original monitor would involve far more stress in the main frame then a light LCD. I'm even using a good and expensive lcd so view angle is not an issue. I currently have mame on a 65" HD TV using HDMI. I like this look, and don't forsee the LCD being any different.

Entering the gameroom, no will will know it's custom except for the obvious give away of extra controls, a front end, and a flush mounted LCD behind smoked glass. What's not to love about that?

I could have put fur on this cab, made some obnoxius stickers that go with no theme randomly stuck all over the place, and chopped this up an unrestorable mess. I will not continue to defend this project. I am trying to give back to the community with whatever turns out with this. Hopefully someone finds this inspirational in some form or another. Ultimately, it's what I want, and why some people live in houses shaped like dogs or giant boots.

I am not an arcade technition. I have no clue why it originally wouldn't turn on, what the scary humming was, and how to tell if the monitor even worked. Ultimately, I don't care. It wasn't in the cards for this guy.

I will sell off the boards and the monitor to anyone who wants this. The cab is beautiful, and I will continue to give it my special touch staying as true to original form as I can.

If you want to flame me, then let's create another thread for that. Let's keep this topic on constructive criticisms of the events to come. Thanks in advance.

You're wrong. He's not destroying the cab, he's saving it. Sure it's not going to be a dedicated original Galaxian, but he's taking the time and effort to stay true to the original design. It was messed up and he didn't know how to fix it, but he could modify it to suit his needs and still maintain the look and feel of an original. The original boards and monitor can go to a good home, with someone who can figure out the problems and restore those things back to their original glory.

Give the guy some slack. And I think these sorts of projects are great. I look at it as saving a Galaxian from the dump, or some other fate worse than that:

I could have put fur on this cab, made some obnoxius stickers that go with no theme randomly stuck all over the place

Not everyone has room for dedicated machines in their house, but they do love the look of some of the older machines. This is a perfect way to get the best of both worlds.

Back on topic, I like it. Never been a huge fan of these cabs (mainly because of the extreme angle of the monitor), but your artwork looks really good so far. My only advice would be to put those player 2 buttons in a horizontal configuration if at all possible. I just don't know how comfortable it would be to have them vertically like that. I'm sure you'll play-test and decide, but that's my only real criticism. Other than that, keep up the good work.

Yeah, those controls haven't been tested yet. I'm in a standstill on this project due to some crazy work related things. And also, now that Randy has made a spinner fit into a standard button hole, I can potentially rearrange that spinner, shifting the ball back towards center, and gaining some additonal room. I'm really trying to be careful to give robotron a good fit as well, so we'll have to see.

I've ran across a few cabs around here that are inspiring me again to push this forward even though right now is not the right time to do so! I'm liking Level42's project, Bella's Cab, and JFunks project, all which I'll be watching closely to see how everyone else is tacking things.

Thanks for the comments, Hopefully this weekend I can find a few minutes to pull 'em out of the corner and start up the power saws (just kidding level42!)

I might have come over a bit too harsh on my first reply. Maybe triggered because I'm trying to do the full restore on my Galaxian....however don't consider this "flaming", just a matter of difference in opinion.

I still stand by my opinion though, but that's what a forum like this is about. You put up a project and you get responses. I hope to get good feedback but remarks on how to do things better or that people think different are all very welcome and valued.

I actualy really like your CPO design. It's nice in the Galaxian style. But if I would have wanted a Galaxian-styled Mame cab, I would have get the dimensions from the net and saw the boards myself.....because essentialy, that's the only thing you'll still be using from the original cab.....

I got a PM from a member here about my Galaxian No.815.I had mentioned that I thought it was so weird that there is no repro artwork available for the Galaxian. He said that every scratch and spot on the artwork is also part of the history of the cab and that he wouldn't replace it at all. I value his opinion and in a sense he is right about that. But if I would go this way, I should have only cleaned the cab,leave the blurry WG in it, use the dirty worn-out buttons, keep the totaly worn-out T-molding on and keep the rust going on the metal parts. IMHO it's fine to restore/replace these parts IF you keep it as original as possible. I know that the CPO I ordered is 100% the same as the original (up to the structure of the vinyl !). So why not replace it ? I also know that I COULD have the side and kickplate art printed (the files are available) but it would need the EXACT same vinyl. Hard to find, and then how to print it ? Anyway....I leave my side-art as it is, because it's already very nice for the age. But if I could get some (NOS) or 100% exact repro, Id' go for it....

What I want to say with this all: opinions differ. I may have thought otherwise about your project a while ago, because I didn't really own a classic up to then....It's also because of this that I think that your Galaxian could have pretty easily been restored.That hummm you're hearing is perfectly normal. Those fat-ass transformers on the bottom are producing that sound and it's simply the mains-humm that these produce, and always have.Probably you only needed to replace the monitor (with a CRT ! ) maybe get the board fixed/"new" board....but again, it's your cab I trust you do it as stylish as possible, and take care with those power saws, the arcade Gods, may take a revenge

Cool. I can definately see how someone might do exactly as you say and fix the monitor, clean the insides, and replaced the generic CPO that came on it with a reproduction original. The artwork is a lot better then some I've seen I suppose you could say. And it's in far better shape then that one found in the rain.

I'm the type of person who gets pissed when if my car gets a tiny scratch on it. I've considered leaving everything alone, but mentally any imperfection makes me question why I don't 'fix it' knowing full well i can print reproductions that 95% of everyone won't know I didn't buy this cab new. I will be priting new art using the files you mentioned, which are all ready downloaded in case that source leaves the internet for good suddenly. I'm not sure if I'll be painting the cab white or getting vinyal printed upon. Neither will be 100% authentic, but it will look less 'antique' and more original to me. I need to research the cost of getting vinyal printed on. If after removing the vinyl, the wood looks in as good of shape as the inside of the cab does after I cleaned it out, I feel it would be a crime to prime and paint over the wood. The X-Factor here is that the front has water damage to the bottom front kick plate and the sides have some chips. There are also some large holes in this unit from some opperator adding the gigantic metal theft bar across the coin door. Those wholes need filled, and so far, the only solution I see is that I either replace the panel completely, or use the 'fill it with bondo' technique. The latter solution means the wood would be ugly anyways, so I mind as well paint it at that point.

This weekend I'm likely taking a hairdryer to the entire cab and stripping off that vinyal after taking a ton of reference shots. Bondo is likely to come shortly after to fix any chips, holes, etc to remove the years of abuse. I can't believe someone used the side art of this cab as a 'tree trunk' where they've written their name on the side of it. I never as a kid, carved or wrote on public property that wasn't mine. Now trees, maybe once... but we chop them down to become furnature anways

I'm super interested to see how you fix the coindoor rust. Do keep me posted. I have holes in mine as well which need filled. I visited the site with the midway coindoor logo replacement and noticed I can buy a whole new door front which has no holes, for relatively cheap, which is another option.

Started working on the coin door this weekend after making a trip to the Home Depot. Came home with the following inventory:

Dremmel attachment - Wire Wheel #428

Dremmel attachment - Wire Brush #442

Black and Decker 2" Wire Wheel (fine)

Naval Jelly Rust Remover

Citristrip Paint Stripping Gel

Brasso metal polish

Rust-oleum Autobody Primer - #2089 Dark Gray

Rust-oleum Fine Textured Finish - #7220 Black

1 Can of Bondo

This coin door isn't in too bad of shape. It's got some holes under coin #2 insert which need filled, some slight bends which need straitened, and everything could use a good scrub and a paint job.

Step 1: Dismanteling the DoorI began by taking apart the door. Because this is my first venture at this, I took about 100 pictures of each step, and also made individually labeled bags for each screw set so I'd know which one came from where when it's time to put it back together. The hardest part of this process was probably removing the Midway Logo from the front. It was attached with rivets, and sure, I could have pried this right off since it's scratched all to anyways, but I felt some respect was needed for this task. I took a finishing nail, and pounded out each rivot from the back which in turn, poped the nail out the front, leaving the logo in tact. Below is a picture of the door before and after dismantling. Note the holes under coin 2 which will be filled with bondo soon.

Step 2: Coin Acceptor Rust RemovalIn the paint isle, I accidentally spotted Naval Jelly rust remover, which I've been told to look for to aide with the rust task by others. I picked up the bottle when home, and started to read the applicationn directions. Right on the bottle, it states clearly that, "This product contains chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California". Good thing I'm in Texas! I immediately put the jar right back down after reading this, figuring that restoration of an arcade machine wasn't worth uncurable disease. It will be going back to the Depot next weekend.

I next grabbed all my newly purchased wire wheels and headed into the garadge with all the metal pieces. I loaded my cordless drill the small dremmel wire wheel and turned it on at full blast to get the feel for this process. Seems the cordless wasn't going to cut the mustard in reguads to RPM. I then remembered that last year I purchased the "worst drill ever" for 15$. It is a no name brand, but plugs into a wall. It has forward and reverse options, no variable speed option, and strips screws like it's no ones business. You hit the trigger, you get full tilt RPM. Known only previously as a waist of money, it now serves as a makeshift dremmel motor GREAT for paint and rust removal.

I loaded up the blue drill with the small wheel (seen below) and began by testing the rust removal process on the BACK of the worst coin acceptor. I was fearful that this wheel would heavily mar and scratch the finish, and felt that testing here was the best option. To my surprise, this little wheel took the rust right off, and didn't seem to scratch the finish anything like I had expected it to. Upon completing the back, I was confident that the this process would work for the front as well. Thirtly minutes later I had 2 rust free coin acceptors.

Next I've been told by others to use steel wool to remove the bigger scratches the wheel would cause. After all, this is sanding, a process of adding scratching to beautify. So I did this on both sides of the coin acceptors. I'm not convinced this did anything at all. I think this little dremmel wheel did a fantastic job of not scratching the surface much at all.

Lastly, I hit both coin acceptors with a soft rag and some Brasso metal polish. This made them a tad shinier, but do not expect to get new bumper feel from a 28 year old part. I think they turned out pretty good (see before and after pictures below)

Now about the acceptor bolts (which were rusted and REALLY horrible looking). I read that the preferred process is to take your bolt, and stick it in your drill chuck so the screw end goes inside. This allows the head to be spun into some steel wool, followed by spinning it into a rag of Brasso. Point take, I tried that and I highly suggest you do not. Spinning the bolt into the steel wool caused the bolt to snag the wool from my hand and twist it into a giant ball around the drill head and the bolt itself. I even made sure it was taunt in my hand before attempting this. I laughed and was like, "um.. duh of course it would do that." I untangled it and decided to skip this step and try going strait to the "spin into rag of Brasso" technique. This was even more scary. The drill snagged the rag from my hand and almost whipped me in the face, not to mention twerked my wrist. Don't do this unless you enjoy pain.

Pissed now, I got the wheel back out. Holding the bolt shaft with a pair of needle nose plyers, I ran the brush over the head, and within 10 seconds it looked new and shiney again. I see no scratches on the nail head, so I don't think it's vital to spin the bolt into a flat surface for consistant scratching sake.

Step 3: Cleaning the coin mechsI considered repainting the interior coin mechs as Peale describes in his coindoor refinishing tutorial. I really only think the coin shoots look crummy, and after I figured that no one will see the insides much, plus they work fine right now. They have age defying crud, and a quick blast from the small wire wheel took off most of that! They now don't look new, but they also don't look disgustingly old. One of them was likely replaced, as there is still a sticker on it dating to January of 1982. Cool! I will probably hit the coin shoots with a shot from the 2" wire wheel next weekend. The bigger wheel does add noticable scratches, but will take of a tiny layer which I think will make the overall appearance look nider to those two particular pieces.

Step 4: Paint Removal from the Door and FrameSo I couldn't find Strippease at the Home Depot. I did manage to find something called Citristrip Gel. It said it was a safe stripper (which sounded like a plus to me, no one likes a dirty stripper!) and didn't give off fumes. Since it's freezing out, I thought I could use this indoors and not have my wife pass out. Upon reading the directions, on the label again a scary statement, "This product contains a chemical known to cause reproductive harm in the state of California". What's with California and why do they want us all to die? I was told by my wife to immediately put that down and not to use it. So I headed out to the garadge to use it. Hey, one can always adopt, right?

I got out a paint brush and lathered a thick coat over both the frame and the door fronts. It smelled delicious like oranges as the label said it would, and I resisted the temptation to taste it. It sat overnight, and I anticipated wiping off years of yuck with a wet rag. Well, this was true on the frame. The coindoor resisted, so I shot it by hand with a wire brush. Wearing rubber gloves, I scrubbed away wiping new layers off with a clean paper towel. I used 2/3rds of a roll before I decided it was as good as it was going to get without reapplying another coat. YUCK! I'm not sure I'd do the chemical peel again. Curious and anxious to see my door revealed, I rembered this blog where he mentions doing the entire thing with a wire wheel. Hey, I have one of those! And damn.. it works WAY better then this chemical crap.

I will mention that the 2" B&D Wire Wheel does add noticable scratches to the door as it strips paint like butter. These are minor in my opinion. The door is going to be primed and repainted so this is not a problem. Doing it over, I'd skip any sort of paint stripper and proceed strait to grinding.

Next WeekendAs the door stands tonight, it's 80% finished before I grew too cold to stay outside and my wrist hurst from not having a proper dremmel tool to use. Once I finish sanding the paint away, I plan to layer the coin door in with a thin coat of bondo in a few places where it looks like children beat the hell out of the doing returns. There are also those 4 security holes which need patched. Prime and paint come next, and I'm hoping 1 weekend will be enough to do this all in. I suppose I may run into "don't rush it" paint issues, so we'll have to see how it goes. I'll keep you posted. For now, enjoy the pictures below which accompany this restoration story.