Bargain Bite: Hard Knox Cafe

Published 4:00 am, Thursday, July 31, 2008

Waiter Rance Hodge serves dinners at the Hard Knox Cafe on Clement St., in San Francisco.

Waiter Rance Hodge serves dinners at the Hard Knox Cafe on Clement St., in San Francisco.

Photo: Katy Raddatz, The Chronicle

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Fried chicken with sides of blackeyed peas and collard greens at the Hard Knox Cafe on Clement St., in San Francisco, CA.

Fried chicken with sides of blackeyed peas and collard greens at the Hard Knox Cafe on Clement St., in San Francisco, CA.

Photo: Katy Raddatz, The Chronicle

Bargain Bite: Hard Knox Cafe

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The second location of Hard Knox Cafe (the first is on Third Street) hasn't been hard up for business since opening its doors just a few months ago. And why should it be? On the ever-burgeoning Clement Street, it's the only place where diners can curb a hankering for rib-sticking food.

Customers pile into booths inside the funky space, which boasts a casual, Southern motorcycle-stop vibe. Corrugated metal sheeting covers the walls, studded with license plates, tools and neon signs. There's no shortage of kitsch, but it only adds to the appeal.

Hard Knox is best known for its platters of fried chicken ($9.50), enrobed in a crisp, salty coating with juicy meat underneath. Barbecue-glazed spareribs ($11) are also a hit.

Plenty for one very hungry diner, each entree comes with a warm, fresh corn muffin and a choice of two sides, which might include hearty macaroni and cheese, spiced yams, collard greens or black-eyed peas and rice. Those opting for the veggie plate ($6) can fashion a full meal from three sides.

Most sandwiches come piled on soft rolls. Try the cornmeal-coated catfish po-boy ($8) or the fried chicken breast ($7.50) served with ranch dressing.

A small selection of salads is available ($5.95-$10), but at a place like Hard Knox, you'd be hard-pressed to find one on any table. Here, it seems, the virtuous attitudes are happily checked at the door.