THE UNOFFICIAL OPERATOR MANUAL
for the
RUGER MK II
by
Richard M. Bash
Combat Arms
2869 Grove Way
Castro Valley, California 94546
Telephone (415) 538-6544
September, 1988
- MANDATORY USE OF FACTORY MANUAL WARNING -
We live in an age when lawyers are suing everyone for almost
anything under the sun. Therefore, it is necessary to advise you,
the reader, that this manual in no way replaces or supersedes
information or instructions from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. In the
event of a conflict between the information contained herein and
the information in official Ruger publications, it is the Ruger
publication which takes precedence. Combat Arms will be happy to
answer any questions you may have but the final authority is always
the information from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc.
Assembly and Disassembly
of
The Ruger Mark II Pistol
APPLICABILITY
The following applies to all models of the Ruger Mark II .22
caliber pistol, including the Government Model, as manufactured by
Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. (hereinafter referred to as "Ruger").
INITIAL INSPECTION
Upon initial receipt of the pistol, it should be inspected and
cleaned to assure complete, undamaged delivery and reliable, safe
functioning.
DESCRIPTION
The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is a .22 caliber rimfire,
10 shot magazine fed, semiautomatic, recoil (also called
"blowback") operated weapon, chambered for the .22 caliber Long
Rifle (LR) cartridge. This model includes the following features
with which the user should be thoroughly familiar.
BOLT
The bolt can be manually retracted to chamber a cartridge from
a loaded magazine or to clear the pistol by pulling the bolt ears
to their rearmost position. Releasing the bolt ears will cause the
bolt to fly forward under spring pressure.
BOLT STOP ASSEMBLY
The bolt stop assembly holds the bolt in a rearward position.
It may be actuated either manually or automatically. Whenever there
is an empty magazine assembly in the pistol, and the bolt moves to
its rearmost position, the magazine follower button automatically
actuates the bolt stop to hold the bolt rearward. This will occur
regardless of whether the bolt is moved rearward when the last
round is fired or by manual retraction. If there is a loaded
magazine in the pistol or if there is no magazine in the pistol,
the user may actuate the bolt stop by manually retracting the bolt
and pushing up on the bolt stop thumbpiece. To release the bolt
from the bolt stop when there is a loaded magazine or no magazine
in the pistol, merely pull the bolt ears to the rearmost position
and release. If there is an empty magazine in the pistol, the bolt
can be released by pulling the bolt ears rearward and manually
depressing the bolt stop thumbpiece to allow the bolt to return to
its forward position.
- LOADED MAGAZINE WARNING -
The bolt stop is spring loaded to move downward. Therefore, when
there is a loaded magazine in the pistol and the pistol is jarred
to the extent that the bolt moves rearward, the bolt will fly
forward and chamber a cartridge. For this reason the safety of the
pistol should always be in the on ("S") safe position except when
the user is positioned to fire the pistol at a selected target.
SAFETY
When the safety assembly is in its uppermost ("S") safe
position, the sear is locked and the pistol will not fire. When the
safety is in its lower ("F") fire position, the pistol will fire!
The safety can only be moved to its safe ("S") position when the
hammer is cocked. Therefore, the safety serves as a cocking
indicator. The bolt can be manually retracted and released when the
safety is on ("S"). This feature allows the pistol to be loaded or
unloaded and allows a cartridge to be chambered when the safety is
on ("S"). The safety should be on ("S") at all times except when
the user is deliberately positioned to fire at a selected target.
TARGET MODEL TRIGGER SCREW
The trigger assembly contains an overtravel screw on the
target models. This screw is adjusted at the Ruger factory for
proper functioning and should not need adjustment. The purpose of
the overtravel screw is to limit the distance the trigger moves
after the hammer falls. Improper adjustment of this screw results
in either (a) the screw being screwed out so far that the hammer
will not fall or (b) the screw will not be screwed in far enough
and thereby allowing excess overtravel to the detriment of
accuracy. Adjustment of this trigger overtravel screw, if required,
should only be performed by a qualified armorer.
MAGAZINE
The 10 shot magazine assembly is readily identified by the
removable plastic base decorated with a silver "eagle" and is
designated by Ruger as the M10 magazine. This is the only Ruger
factory magazine that should be used with the Mark II pistol
because it is the only Ruger magazine which will correctly function
the bolt stop. Use of non-factory magazines is not recommended by
Ruger. However, the experience at Combat Arms has been that the 12
round magazine from Ram-Line, Inc. (part number MAK 1210) has shown
that this magazine is the ONLY non-factory magazine that
consistently works in the Ruger MK II pistol. The Ram-Line, Inc.
MAK 1210 magazine also has a life time warranty! It costs $12.95
(as of this writing) and is a stock item at Combat Arms. However,
use of a magazine made by other than Ruger may void Ruger's
warranty.
- MAGAZINE USE WARNING -
Do not use the Ruger 9 shot magazines (identified by their
non-removable bases) designed for earlier model Ruger pistols (Mark
I, etc.) in Mark II pistols. Do not use Ruger 10 round M10
magazines in Ruger pistols other than the Mark II.
- MAGAZINE FOLLOWER USE CAUTION -
Never lower the magazine follower button on the magazine and then
permit it to snap upward. Always "ride" the button up and down with
your thumb to avoid damage to the magazine and possible discharge
of .22 caliber rimfire cartridges in the magazine.
- WARNING -
The Mark II pistol will fire when a live round is chambered,
regardless of whether or not a magazine is installed in the pistol.
Removing the magazine does not unload the pistol. To unload the
pistol, FIRST REMOVE THE MAGAZINE, THEN PULL THE BOLT FULLY TO THE
REAR AND EJECT THE CARTRIDGE. DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CHAMBER IS
EMPTY; ALWAYS VISUALLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER EVERY TIME YOU HANDLE
THE PISTOL. THE SAFETY SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON ("S") WHEN UNLOADING THE
PISTOL.
Ammunition
The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is chambered for the
caliber .22 Long Rifle cartridge, standard or high velocity. Use
only ammunition manufactured to U.S. industry standards or to U.S.
military specifications. Do not attempt to load .22 Long, .22 Short
or any other type of .22 caliber ammunition into the magazine or
the chamber of the Ruger Mark II pistol.
- AMMUNITION WARNING -
The Ruger Mark II pistol may be damaged and death or serious injury
may occur to the user or other persons from any condition which
contributes to the generation of excessive pressure or the
uncontrolled release of gas within the Mark II pistol. These
conditions can be caused by barrel or chamber obstructions,
propellant powder overloads or by defective, incorrect or
improperly loaded and assembled cartridge components. The
relatively thin, soft metal used in .22 caliber rimfire cartridges
makes burst cartridge case heads a common occurrence in firearms
of this caliber. Therefore shooting glasses should ALWAYS be worn
when firing the Mark II pistol.
- BARREL OBSTRUCTION WARNING -
Before loading or firing the pistol, examine the barrel to be
certain that it is clear and unobstructed. Firing the Mark II
pistol with any obstruction in the barrel - even a heavy coating
of oil or even drops of water - may result in damage to the pistol
and injury to the user or persons nearby. A misfire or unusual
report on firing is always a signal to cease firing immediately
and examine the chamber and bore. If there is any type of
obstruction - even a partial obstruction - the user must clear the
obstruction with a cleaning rod and bore brush before firing the
Mark II pistol.
SPECIFICATIONS
Weight
Without magazine 2.7 pounds
With empty magazine 2.8 pounds
With full M10 magazine 2.9 pounds
Length
Overall 11.125 inches
Barrel 6.875 inches
Sights
Sight radius (on 6.875 inch barrel) 9.281 inches
Adjustment « inch per click
at 25 yards
Mechanical features
Rifling 6 grooves
Twist 1 turn in 15 inches
(right hand twist)
Trigger pull Approximately 50
ounces
Magazine capacity
Ruger M10 magazine 10 cartridges
Caliber .22 Long Rifle only
Disassembling the Ruger Mark II
- LOADED WEAPON WARNING -
Never clean, lubricate, disassemble, assemble or work on the Mark
II pistol while it is loaded. Keep all loaded ammunition away from
the cleaning area.
- MUZZLE SAFETY WARNING -
Keep the muzzle of the Ruger Mark II pistol pointed in a safe
direction at all times during the disassembly and assembly of this
pistol.
REMOVAL OF THE MAGAZINE
Place the safety on ("S"). With the thumb of either hand, push
the knurled magazine catch rearward and pull the magazine assembly
down out of the lower receiver by its grooved base. Remove all
cartridges from the magazine by pushing them forward and allowing
them to pop out.
CHECK CHAMBER FOR NO CARTRIDGES
With the pistol pointed in a safe direction and YOUR FINGER
OFF THE TRIGGER, grasp the bolt ears with the thumb and index
finger and pull the bolt fully rearward. Make certain the Ruger
Mark II is empty! Visually verify that no ammunition is in the
chamber. Release the bolt ears and allow the bolt to fly forward.
UNCOCK THE HAMMER
The safety must be off ("F") and the pistol uncocked to
disassemble the Mark II. Point the weapon in a safe direction and,
with the pistol unloaded, pull the trigger. The hammer must be
uncocked to relieve the pressure on the mainspring before the
weapon can be disassembled.
UNLATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The perfect "tool" to use for raising the mainspring housing
latch is a lady's bobby pin. Combat Arms has found nothing better
for disassembling the Ruger Mark II than this. Using your
fingernails will just result in broken nails. If you use a
screwdriver, you risk scratching the pistol. Some users have
reported that they use a piece of string looped over the latch.
Using the bobby pin, lift the mainspring housing latch UP out of
the handgrip as far as it will go, much like opening the blade of
a pocket knife. This will bring the latch to an approximate 90ø
angle to the handgrip.
INITIALLY POSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the empty pistol straight up and pull the trigger in
order to make the hammer fall to its rearmost position.
REMOVE THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Pull straight DOWN on the mainspring housing until the
mainspring housing pin clears its hole in the top of the receiver.
With new pistols it may be necessary to lightly tap (with a
plastic, rubber or wooden hammer) on the end of the mainspring
housing pin which protrudes through the top of the upper receiver
assembly while pulling downward on the mainspring housing. The
mainspring housing is now able to be removed from the pistol.
POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD
Point the Mark II muzzle DOWN and pull the trigger.
REPOSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Now raise the empty pistol vertically and point it straight
up until you hear a click. This click tells you that the hammer
strut has fallen back. If you do not hear the click, go back to the
previous step, entitled POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY
You can now pull the bolt out of the receiver by pulling on
the bolt ears while continuing to point the pistol at the ceiling.
If the bolt will not come out, then the hammer is not positioned
aft; go back two steps to POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver and hold the bolt stop thumbpiece UP.
Hold the pistol over a padded work surface which will receive the
upper receiver when it is removed. Tap the rear of the upper
receiver with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer to disengage the
upper receiver from the lower receiver.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
Lift the recoil spring assembly UP out of its slot in the bolt
assembly. NOTE: no further disassembly of the bolt should be needed
for routine cleaning. For further disassembly, push out the firing
pin stop. This will allow the firing pin, firing pin spring and the
firing pin spring support to drop free. With a pointed object, such
as a punch of the proper size, push the extractor plunger rearward
until the extractor can be lifted out of the side of the bolt.
Slowly release the extractor plunger, allowing the plunger and
extractor spring to fall free of the bolt.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Hold the Ruger M10 magazine assembly upside down, keeping the
base of the magazine pointed away from people or objects. Insert
a 1/16" drift punch through the hole in the base and depress the
magazine base plunger approximately ¬". Slide the base forward
very slowly, being very careful to keep the plunger and mainspring
under control at all times. If not contained, these parts will fly
out with considerable force. With the base fully removed, slowly
relax the pressure on the plunger and spring and remove them. Hold
the magazine flat with the magazine follower button up. Align the
magazine follower button with the circular opening near the lower
end of the magazine tube. Lift out the button. The magazine
follower can now be removed.
CLEAN THE PISTOL
Gather together the proper sized cleaning rod with a .22
caliber brass or bronze bristle bore brush and a slotted tip into
which a cleaning patch can be inserted. Also needed are clean cloth
patches and clean soft cloths. Do not use stainless steel brushes
on the weapon unless the Mark II is constructed of stainless steel.
Stainless steel brushes will remove the bluing on blued pistols.
A bronze or brass "toothbrush" is especially helpful for scrubbing
parts. Do not use the bore brush for scrubbing anything except the
barrel and magazine housing.
Combat Arms and the United States military recommend that you
use Break-Free (CLP)(tm). Under no circumstances should you ever
use WD-40(tm) on any weapon! If you need a solvent, Combat Arms
recommends that you use Shooter's Choice(tm) followed by CLP. The
Ruger Mark II should be cleaned at least every 400 rounds and after
each firing period.
Using a cleaning rod with a slotted tip, run a CLP wetted
patch through the full length of the barrel from the chamber end
several times to remove loose material. Then attach a bronze or
brass bristle bore brush to the cleaning rod and wet it in CLP.
Run the bore brush back and forth through the full length of the
barrel at least a dozen times. Make sure that the rod is pushed all
the way through the barrel until the entire bore brush clears the
muzzle end. Do not reverse the direction of the brush until it has
completely exited from the muzzle end of the barrel or the bore
brush may bind up inside the barrel.
Using the toothbrush soaked in CLP, scrub the area around the
chamber until it is clean. Remove the bore brush from the cleaning
rod and attach the slotted tip again. Run several dry patches
through the barrel until they come out clean. If necessary, attach
the bore brush to the cleaning rod again and scrub the barrel with
a CLP soaked bore brush. Continue the process until the barrel is
clean.
Failing to do this consistently and properly will cause
fouling of the barrel with a natural loss of accuracy. Grease
accumulation in the chamber area can interfere with the proper
feeding of cartridges from the magazine.
Using a loose clean patch soaked with CLP, remove all powder
residue from all components of the mechanism. If grease or dirt
cannot be removed by merely wiping with the patch, then use your
brass toothbrush soaked with CLP. After using the brass toothbrush,
wipe all of the scrubbed areas with a clean CLP wetted patch. After
cleaning the bore, run a clean dry patch through the barrel and
then follow it with a patch that has a light coat of CLP on it.
This will put a light coat of CLP on the inside of the barrel and
protect it from corrosion.
Wipe all surfaces with a clean cloth that has a light coat of
CLP on it. If the lower receiver and its mechanism is especially
dirty, flood it with CLP, leave it sit soaking for 2 hours and then
flush it out with more CLP. Remove the grip panels before soaking
or flushing the pistol and make certain that all foreign matter is
removed after cleaning. Lightly lubricate the lower receiver with
CLP after cleaning.
When cleaning the bolt face, breech areas, etc. with the
toothbrush, work carefully so as not to damage components.
Reassemble the pistol as detailed later in this manual. If the
Ruger Mark II pistol is to be stored for an extended period, the
final wiping should be done with a heavier coat of CLP.
Clean the internal and external parts of the disassembled
magazine with CLP. The inside of the magazine can be scrubbed with
a bore brush soaked in CLP. After scrubbing, remove all loose
material with several clean patches, just like you did with the
cleaning of the barrel. Leave a very light coat of CLP on the
inside of the magazine and on the magazine spring.
- MAGAZINE CLEANING CAUTION -
Be careful not to scratch the interior and exterior of the Ruger
M10 magazine, particularly along the front section where the bullet
tips ride. Be very careful not to bend the magazine lips.
Only a very small amount of CLP is needed to provide adequate
lubrication of all moving parts in the Ruger Mark II and to prevent
rust. Accumulation of CLP can attract particles of dust and dirt
which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the
pistol. Do not, therefore, apply excess CLP unless storing the
weapon for an extended period of time. If storing the weapon and
using a heavy coating of CLP, the weapon should be disassembled and
re-cleaned and lubricated with a light coating of CLP before
firing.
- STORAGE WARNING -
If the pistol has been stored, before firing it again, completely
disassemble it as detailed elsewhere in this manual, remove all
grease and lubricant, apply a light coating of CLP to all parts as
described in the section on cleaning and be sure to run a dry patch
through the barrel after cleaning with a bore brush soaked in CLP.
Do not keep the pistol stored in a leather holster or leather case.
Leather attracts moisture, even though the holster or case may
appear to be perfectly dry. Never store the Mark II pistol in such
a manner as it may be dislodged. Always store the Mark II securely
and unloaded.
- LUBRICATION WARNING -
Firing the pistol with oil, grease or any other material even
partially obstructing the barrel may result in damage to the pistol
and death or injury to the user and those persons nearby. Never
spray or apply any lubricants directly to the ammunition. If the
powder charge of a cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it is
possible that the charge will not ignite but the energy from the
primer in the cartridge case may be sufficient to push the bullet
into the barrel where it may be lodged. Firing a subsequent bullet
into the obstructed barrel may damage the pistol and cause death
or injury to the user and persons nearby. Use all lubricants
properly and according to the lubricant manufacturer's suggestions
and recommendations.
Reassembling the Ruger Mark II
ASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Assemble the magazine in the reverse order of its disassembly,
being especially careful to contain the spring and plunger as the
base is being locked into place. After assembly of the magazine,
test the follower to ensure that it has free movement.
ASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
The bolt is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly.
When installing the firing pin spring, make certain that the front
of the support curves DOWN into the bolt. After assembly, test the
extractor and firing pin for free movement. Put the recoil spring
assembly back into the bolt.
INSTALLATION OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver in a natural shooting position. Point
the pistol upward vertically and pull the trigger to pivot the
hammer backward to a cocked position. Lower the pistol to a
horizontal position. Place the upper receiver about ¬" ahead of
its final position and press it backward and downward so that the
trigger guard lug engages the front recess on the bottom of the
upper receiver. The upper receiver is properly aligned when the
rear end of the upper receiver is approximately even with the rear
end of the lower receiver. If proper alignment is not achieved by
mere hand pressure then it is necessary to strike the muzzle with
a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer. Inspect the inside of the
receiver to see if the hammer is up. If the hammer is up, the bolt
will not go into the receiver. If the hammer is up, point the
pistol up vertically and pull the trigger to make the hammer go to
the cocked position and ensure that the hammer strut is free.
INSTALLATION OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY INTO THE RECEIVER
With the muzzle still pointing slightly upward, insert the
bolt into the receiver SPRING SIDE UP. If you put it straight in,
the bolt will easily slide right into the receiver.
- FIRING PIN STOP WARNING -
When sliding the bolt assembly into the receiver, be certain that
the firing pin stop is in the bolt. If the bolt is assembled
without the firing pin stop in place, the first time the Mark II
pistol is dry fired (no live cartridge in the chamber), the firing
pin will be free to move forward to the extent that it will dent
the rear face of the chamber, thus rendering the upper receiver
useless and beyond repair.
INSTALLATION OF THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Point the empty pistol downward and pull the trigger until the
hammer falls forward to its vertical (fired) position. Grasp the
mainspring housing and insert the mainspring housing into the
receiver by positioning the mainspring housing pin into the bottom
of the hole in the lower receiver and push it straight up through
the hole in the upper receiver. As the mainspring housing pin is
pushed upward through the receivers, it passes through the slot in
the bolt and also passes by the rear end of the recoil spring
guide, camming the recoil spring guide forward to put initial
tension into the recoil spring. Continue pressing the mainspring
housing pin upward through the receivers until the mainspring
housing pin protrudes about 1/8 inch above the top of the upper
receiver. During this step, be certain that the rear of the bolt
is flush with the rear of the receiver and that the hammer is in
its fired (forward) position. When the hammer is in the forward
position, it is then possible to observe the hammer strut. The
mainspring housing pin will snap into place when it has traveled
to its correct position.
VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD
Point the empty pistol down towards the floor and pull the
trigger. This will cause the hammer to fall forward. Release the
trigger and do not touch it again!
REPOSITION THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the MARK II straight up until you hear the hammer strut
fall back with a slight click. You will have to raise the pistol
rapidly to cause the hammer strut to fall back. Do not pull the
trigger. Keep the Mark II pointing upward.
LATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The mainspring housing is now ready to be swung shut but it
is essential that the hammer strut comes to rest on the mainspring
plunger as the housing is closed. The mainspring plunger lies
inside the mainspring housing and may be seen through the slot in
the upper end of the housing. If the hammer strut does not contact
the mainspring plunger as the housing is swung shut, it will either
be impossible to complete the closure of the housing or the housing
may be closed but it will be impossible to draw the bolt all the
way back. It is also essential that the hammer itself be in its
uncocked forward position (resting against the firing pin) as the
mainspring housing is swung shut. With the MARK II still pointing
up vertically and tilted at a slight angle to cause the hammer
strut to drop into the correct position to meet the mainspring
plunger in the mainspring housing, close and latch the mainspring
housing by pushing the latch into its original position with the
heel of your hand.
TESTING FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT
When proper engagement is achieved, closure is complete
against the tension of the mainspring, which can be felt as the
mainspring housing is pushed into the recess in the back strap. To
find out if you did everything correctly, grasp the bolt ears and
pull the bolt back. If the bolt comes all the way back, you
reassembled the Ruger Mark II correctly. If the bolt fails to come
back, it is because the hammer strut is improperly positioned. If
the hammer strut is improperly positioned, then open the mainspring
housing again and go back to the step entitled VERIFY THAT THE
HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD.
- USE OF FORCE CAUTION -
It isn't the amount of force that does the job but how that force
is applied. If all else fails, bring the pistol into Combat Arms
and we'll show you how to do it at no charge if you purchased the
Mark II here. Otherwise there is a $5.00 fee. Everyone agrees that
the Ruger factory manual for the Mark II pistol leaves a lot to be
desired. Sorry, but the only thing that will change that is if you,
the consumer, write to Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. and complain.
Combat Arms has spare factory manuals if you need one ($1.00).
- RECALL NOTICE -
If your serial number is 210-92816 to 210-94772 or 211-28500 to
211-40000, Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. advises that two (2) pistols in
the aforementioned serial number range have been discovered to fire
if the trigger is pulled when the safety is on S and then the
safety is moved to the F position. If, with an empty pistol, you
cock the pistol, put the safety to S and pull the trigger and then
put the safety to F and pull the trigger, you should hear a click
as the hammer falls in a properly functioning pistol. If you do NOT
hear the click, the pistol can fire simply by moving the safety to
the F position. Do not use the pistol if it does this! Ship it at
once via UPS to Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc., Dept. MKII, Lacey Place,
Southport, CT 06490. If you prefer, Combat Arms can insure and ship
the weapon for you for $10.00. Ruger will repair the pistol without
charge to you.
- About the Author -
Born in Indianapolis, Indiana on March 6, 1945, Richard M.
Bash (known to his friends as Dick) graduated from Purdue
University and did graduate work at the University of Southern
California. For approximately 10 years Dick flew as a flight
engineer aboard Boeing 707, Boeing 727 and Lockheed C-130 aircraft.
After having traveled to 108 different countries, Dick settled in
the San Francisco Bay area where he opened Combat Arms in 1983. He
lives with his wife, Flora, in Hayward, California and enjoys
shooting, computers, ham radio (KL7IHP) and reading. He is a
Heckler & Koch factory trained armorer and a graduate of the Law
Enforcement Armorer School at Lassen College in Susanville,
California. A perennial student, he presently taking courses at
Chabot College in Hayward. Dick wrote this manual because so many
users had questions about the proper way to disassemble, clean and
assemble the Ruger Mark II and there was a severe lack of
information available. Written suggestions for improvement of this
manual are also welcomed.
- Acknowledgment of Trademarks -
Combat Arms wishes to acknowledge the trademarks of the
following products along with their respective companies.
Mark I, Mark II, Ruger Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc.
Break-Free, CLP San-Bar Corp.
WD-40 WD-40 Company
Shooter's Choice Venco Industries Inc.