Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

This is a discussion on Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group within Technical Stuff, part of the Under the Hood category; Any idea where the drain nut is on the fuel tank of E220? Need to pull out the fuel pump ...

The pipe that goes out of the tank and is attached to the tank from the floor just above the differential is the drain and is also the fuel strainer or the in tank filter for the 124. It is easily accessible from under the car.

I would suggest using a ramp and disconnecting the main pipe and drain all the fuel using a pipe into a drum. Once done you can also get fuel strainer out and clean it before reinstalling.

Do let us know the experience if you plan on cleaning the in tank fuel strainer / filter.

The pipe that goes out of the tank and is attached to the tank from the floor just above the differential is the drain and is also the fuel strainer or the in tank filter for the 124. It is easily accessible from under the car.

I would suggest using a ramp and disconnecting the main pipe and drain all the fuel using a pipe into a drum. Once done you can also get fuel strainer out and clean it before reinstalling.

Do let us know the experience if you plan on cleaning the in tank fuel strainer / filter.

All the Best

I did replace my fuel pump. The pump draws fuel from a thick pipe coming from the tank going onto suction side of the pump. . then the in line fuel filter is on the high pressure side, which futher connects to the piping towards the engine.

Hmm from what I could infer from your post, the drain pipe and the strainer are one unit! ?

I do not recollect seeing any other pipe apart from the main fuel feed from the tank towards fuel pump..will check again as I need to replace the inline fuel filter.

I reckon the pump died due to a clogged filter on the high side. I observed that the pressure pulsations on the inlet pipe connecting the high side of the pump to the inlet of the filter were much higher as compared to the fuel filter outlet side pipe...meaning pressure drop. The difference was almost 50%. So guess my filter is badly clogged thus eating away pressure and overloading the pump. And yes..mine doesn't have a pressure regulator next to filter like seen in some models. Its a two unit assembly with just the fuel pump and filter.

Can u please elaborate more if possible about the strainer? Would u have any pics of the same?

Ohhh NO!!! What a sight!!! Guess my pump died of cavitation then.. (it buzzed for 2 years! !! )..am pretty sure...ciz when I pulled the pipe..the fuel didn't come gushing out considering the dia..it kind of pee ed off took a good 15 mins to drain about 10 to 12 litres of fuel.

Great , was trying to get the same here in Mumbai, will let you know if i cant get it here.

Did you manage to get the same changed ?

I am planning to get the entire fuel system cleaned / checked and consumables replaced. Hence both filters, fuel rubber hoses or pipes along with flushing the fuel tank as preventive maintenance.

Well I am doing it myself. Thr car stalled as the fuel pump overheated and also was buzzing badly. Possibly because of the clogged strainer. This happened even after replacing the fuel pump and inline filter.

I have drained the fuel and removed the fuel hose from the strainer assy. However I am unable to turn the strainer loose with the wrench I have as I am unable to get sufficient traction from underneath the car as the tank is recessed in the chassis. I am looking for a 1-13/16 socket or else ill remove the tank (its bolted being the rear backrest)

I drained the fuel tank into a drum using the fuel pump itself . I got "black" petrol! ! It was too dirty to be reused.

My Mercedes Benz E220 petrol old model for sale for Rs1.75.
Good condition.
Recently changed CLUTCH ASSEMBLY (Rs 50,000), Wiring harness (Rs 45,000). Front and Back Suspension overhaul (Rs 45,000).
All these should be changed before the old model Benz car covers around1 lakh kms.
7 KMPL city mileage (Buy this PETROL car only and only if you have a deep pocket and if you have a spare car)
All documents including Insurance and Fitness certificate clear.
Good condition.
Selling because moving out of state.
Genuine only call.
Things to check mechanically. (Must read)
0. Check for idling and as in all Mercs the Oil level needle rises and comes down when revved. Check for any oil leaks under the car.
1.Get the wiring harness checked from a qualified electrician. This can get expensive to replace and was known to be a problem area with all Indian spec W124s. If the wiring is damaged, the ECU may get damaged later. It is very very expensive to repair a damaged ECU. The car will become useless.
2. Check for any warning lights conterminously on and don't believe the talk that its only a minor wiring issue. more often than not its not so easy.
3. Check that when the ignition is on before cranking, the oil, srs airbag, ABS, engine check lights etc all come on and go off when the car is fired. Many fly by night dealers will just cut supply to any check light...no light so the problem is fixed....right???...Well WRONG!!
4. Drive the Merc. The steering is a bit hard, so don’t expect electric type soft steering. This is not a EPS, it’s a Hydraulic power steering. Check for noises when turned clock to clock and held there.
5. Most 124s also had a recurring problem of the fan belt tensioner going bad and making strange sound. Check for that noise.
6. Check the brakes for sponginess or pad/disc wear. Drive and Jam hard, feel if the ABS kicks in,there should be a pulsating feeling on the pedal when jammed, this means the ABS is working. Stay away from the deal if the ABS is not working.
7. Check all the buttons in the car are there and working. These can be hard to find.
8. Check the central locking which should be working bcoz replacing this is very expensive again.
9. If there is a vibration the car, check the engine mounts.
10. Check for anything other than smooth gear shifts and the kick down.
11.Suspension was almost invulnerable but that’s a minor point and is easily detected. Suspension replacing/overhauling is expensive.
12.The quality of the interior will tell you lots about its usage. Any changed interiors should be questioned. Many models had leather interiors. Some came with fabric interior.
14. Check whether the AIRBAGs are still in place. Some accident vehicles do not have the AIRBAGs replaced. It is heard that the cost to replace a single AIRBAG is around a 1 Lakh INR.
15. Check whether all the FOUR power windows are working. Many imported models do NOT have AIRBAGs and POWER WINDOWS. Some models do not have ALLOY WHEELS.Make sure that the car you are buying have these items. Owners often hide this fact. It is said that ALLOYS cost around Rs 20,000/-. If these items are not there, bargain hard.
16.Basically get some Benz technician who knows Benz very well to come and have a look. That will be worth a lot.
17. Buy an used old model Benz only and only if you know that there is NO PROBLEM with the car mechanically and electrically.
18. Check whether the WIPER is working. It is said that the cost of the WIPER assembly is Rs 18,000/-
19. Check whether the ORVMs (side mirrors) are in good condition. it is said that a single unit costs Rs 20,000/-
20. Check the headlights and rearlights for any cracks or damages. It is said that a single unit costs around Rs 20,000/-
21. Check whether all the 4 tyres are in good condition. It is said that a single unit costs Rs 7000/- onwards.
22. Keep at least Rs 2 lacs extra for the immediate works that may come after buying a used W124 old model. Always remember that you are going to buy a 20 year old car. So it will not be maintenance free.
23. Try to buy the old model Benz car from somebody whom you know very closely, somebody whom you can trust.
24. Double check the documents. Most of them do not have insurance and fitness certificate. You may need the signature of the REGISTERED owner which may not be available after you purchase the car. You will then land in trouble. Before payment is done, make sure that all the documents are clear. (Valid Sale letter, valid insurance, valid fitness certificate, valid road tax, Valid pollution check) Once you give the money the dealer/seller may never take your phone call after the payment is over.
25. Check the odometer. Most of them are tampered with. A petrol car will be used for around 10,000 km/year. so a 20 year old car will have traveled more than 1.2 lac kms. So beware when the seller says that his car has covered less than 1 lac kms. (There are exceptions also)
26. I have seen many people go and buy the old model car for less than 2 lacs and later end up spending 3-4 lacs to bring it into good condition.Do not ever let this happen to you.
27. It is said that Spare parts are not easily available for old model PETROL cars. It is freely available for Diesel models.
28. All these information are provided to educate the buyer. I do not intend to offend any car manufacturer or dealer or seller or buyer. I have seen many people getting cheated by the sellers. After providing the above information, I can save at least one buyer from being cheated.
Best of luck with your purchase"

I am currently using a 1996 E250d manual that has done about 119000km. i have questions about some issues i have been facing,

1) the engine noise inside the cabin is too high. even at 30-40 kmph its too loud, i know the 250d engine is louder than its petrol counterpart but the noise is too high and can hear it over the sound of the stereo as well. i am asking because we haven't been using the car much for the last 6-7 years and when i last used it i remember it being much quieter.

2) what happens when the blower speed is set at 1,0 or "." positions ? my car has a button for a/c fitted ( not by mercedes themselves) will post a picture soon, it only lights up when blower is set at position 2 or above. there is no cooling occurring when blower is at position 1, just air.

3) most of the time i have to crank 2-3 times to start the car. what should i be looking at to solve this ? can this be due to using a non-original key, the original keys are lost so the drivers got another one made. can i order the blanks from mercedes india or i saw some blanks for the w124 being sold on ebay, can i buy them and get them cut ?

4) the accelerator pedal feels loose, i can move it side to side by hand, would it be just some bolt coming loose or some clip behind the accelerator being broken ?

I am currently using a 1996 E250d manual that has done about 119000km. i have questions about some issues i have been facing,

1) the engine noise inside the cabin is too high. even at 30-40 kmph its too loud, i know the 250d engine is louder than its petrol counterpart but the noise is too high and can hear it over the sound of the stereo as well. i am asking because we haven't been using the car much for the last 6-7 years and when i last used it i remember it being much quieter.

2) what happens when the blower speed is set at 1,0 or "." positions ? my car has a button for a/c fitted ( not by mercedes themselves) will post a picture soon, it only lights up when blower is set at position 2 or above. there is no cooling occurring when blower is at position 1, just air.

3) most of the time i have to crank 2-3 times to start the car. what should i be looking at to solve this ? can this be due to using a non-original key, the original keys are lost so the drivers got another one made. can i order the blanks from mercedes india or i saw some blanks for the w124 being sold on ebay, can i buy them and get them cut ?

4) the accelerator pedal feels loose, i can move it side to side by hand, would it be just some bolt coming loose or some clip behind the accelerator being broken ?

thanks in advance.

1. Service your engine for any faults; like belt etc; which might be contributing to the noise; If all is in good health and the outside noise of the engine is normal; however in cabin noise is higher, then start looking at the door seals, whether they are sealing well [bad seals let a lot of wind and noise in], what is the status of the under hood insulation? was the dashboard ever removed; if yes was the insulation put back properly? are the under mat insulation there? are the windows sealing well?? lot of things to check

2. Not sure if not OEM MB; however "." on blower switch is just air; no cooling

3. When you mean crank; does the engine not make the cranking noise at-all?? if that is the case, I guess it can be the key unit electrical / vaccum, or battery voltage? fuses etc

1. Service your engine for any faults; like belt etc; which might be contributing to the noise; If all is in good health and the outside noise of the engine is normal; however in cabin noise is higher, then start looking at the door seals, whether they are sealing well [bad seals let a lot of wind and noise in], what is the status of the under hood insulation? was the dashboard ever removed; if yes was the insulation put back properly? are the under mat insulation there? are the windows sealing well?? lot of things to check

will be getting the engine serviced next week. The front drivers side door rubber is deteriorating letting in wind noise, so already planning to replace it. will report back once it gets done.

2. Not sure if not OEM MB; however "." on blower switch is just air; no cooling

Sorry what i wrote may have confused you. The blower speed switch is OEM, I am talking about another switch added on to the panel as seen in the attached picture (sorry for the bad picture). the button was added on (very poorly). the A/C only comes on when the blower speed is set to speed 2 or above. when set at speed 1 only air comes through no A/C. the A/C is really effective even in 40C weather and some times speed 2 is bit too much for me.
so was wondering if something is wrong when blower is set at speed 1 as A/C is not coming on ?

3. When you mean crank; does the engine not make the cranking noise at-all?? if that is the case, I guess it can be the key unit electrical / vaccum, or battery voltage? fuses etc

Else; it can be fuel filter, accumulator etc

no, the engine is making noise but won't start

4. There is a bolt; tighten itwill take a look

Thanks a lot for the help. Will report back once i get the work done. any advice regarding headlamp bulbs? I travel mostly in rural roads with lot of unlit vehicles, people and animals crossing the roads. I am looking at Osram nightbreakers unlimited but they are a bit hard to find where i am as i want to test them before buying them.