Mera Peak

Days from

The climb from Mera La to the Summit is gradual with an outstanding mountain panorama of the Eastern Nepal Himalayas always in sight. The peaks visible include Mt. Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), Nuptse (7855m) and Chamlang (7319m) amongst many others and getting there is considered not much more than a mountain walk across crevassed glacier thus making it one of the most popular trekking peaks of Nepal.

At 6654 meters Mera Peak is probably the highest point in the Nepal Himalaya which is accessible without technical climbing. The ascent of Mera Peak presents no technical difficulty and the view from the summit is acknowledged to be one of the finest in the entire Nepal Himalaya, encompassing five of the world’s 8000 metre peaks: Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest and Cho Oyu. In addition the Mera Peak trek is superb. The Hinku and Hongu valleys in the Baruntse National park are spectacular Himalayan wilderness.

But even without technical difficulties we still have to contend with the high altitude of the mountain and allow sufficient time for acclimatization. The trek leading to the mountain base has several days set aside for acclimatization walks above various camps at higher and higher altitude. This ensures that a reasonably fit person will be comfortable enough to make the final ascent to the summit.

Aside from good altitude acclimatization good weather conditions will be an important factor in succeeding with the ascent of Mera Peak.

J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route. There are many other routes to the peak, but none of them are easy. Some of them require crossing very high and difficult passes. This leads to a true mountaineering experience. In the end, all efforts and hard work is paid off with spectacular scenery as Mera provides one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal.

There are many options for perfecting acclimatization during this trip. If flying to Lukla, perhaps first trek to Everest Base Camp, then cross the Amphu Labtsa (5,780 m), or make a visit to bustling Namche Bazaar first. There are many itinerary alternatives that provide better acclimatization preparation. If time is at a premium then consider visiting Namche first or flying in to Phaplu and taking the alternative Pangkongma route. While superior to the shortest itineraries these still bring us to altitude at a rate that is slightly too quick for some people. With more time why not walk in from Jiri (the bulk of the crew need only join us at Lukla) or for more adventure, try the Arun route via the Surkie La and Panch Pokhari.In any case do let us know your preference and we will craft the itinerary accordingly.

Comming Soon

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu International Airport- T I A (1300m) and transfer to hotel.

Day 02: After breakfast we set out for an extensive guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu valleys cultural, historical, religious (world heritage) sites. During the course, we visit the famous Pashupatinath temple of Lord Shiva situated at the holy bank of River Bagmati where we will also observe the Hindu cremation ritual. We then proceed to the Boudhanath stupa, a major pilgrimage centre for the Buddhist faith which also is the largest of its kind in the world. We then have a short break for lunch followed by a visit to Swoyambhunath stupa also known as the Monkey Temple from where we can have a bird’s eye view of whole of Kathmandu valley. Following this we then proceed for a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the oldest royal palace of Kathmandu and a UNESCO world heritage site. The whole area of Kathmandu Durbar Square is dotted with numerous fascinating Nepalese architect dating back many centuries. The site is also the home to Nepal’s living Goddess – Kumari, where we will also have the opportunity to experience firsthand this unique Nepali tradition. In the evening we will attend the welcome dinner hosted by Makalu Adventure with live Nepalese culture shows.

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2827m) and, trek to Poyan (2,800m):We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Poyan (2,800m).

Day 4: Poyan - Pangkongma (2,846m)After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m). Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.

Day 5: Nashing Dingma (2,600m):With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma (2,600m). We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park.

Day 6: Chalem Kharka (3,600m):Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka (3,600m), set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.

Day 7: Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka (4,200m).

Day 8: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka

Day 9: Descent into the Hinku Valley. We set off from Chunbu Kharka and contour around the main Hinku valley before making a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron. We eventually arrive on the valley floor and witness the incredible devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley floor has been torn to pieces leaving boulders, dead trees and silts where once there was an ancient forest. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed. This is a short day and we can spend the afternoon exploring the rather extreme terrain!

Day 10: Tangnag (4,360m):Today, we follow the dry riverbed up the valley to Tangnag (4,360m). We have a tricky river crossing, using a fallen log to balance our way over the fast flowing water. Having crossed to the north side of the river, we continue until we can climb onto the grassy bank and easier walking! A magnificent, towering mountain, rather unimaginatively known by its survey name of Peak 39, dominates the head of the valley. The trail now leads steadily up the side of the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley. Finally, we reach Tangnag, which has grown into a small hamlet of tea-shops and a lodge since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal.

Day 11: Dig Kharka (4,650m):We now walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka (4,650m), close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier. This is a pleasant, grassy camp in an impressive situation.

Day 12: Acclimatisation day at Dig Kharka:This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile trip onto the glacier (5,100m). An "ecole de glace" will provide members with the opportunity to brush up on their cramponing and ice axe technique. We will have our first day on snow tomorrow as we cross the Mera La.

Day 13: Mera Peak base camp (5,300m):Today we climb up to the Mera La (5,400m). This is an exciting day as we climb onto the Mera Glacier and follow it to the pass. This is in a superb high mountain setting and is a worthwhile objective in itself. We establish our base camp on the far side of the pass, so as to avoid sleeping on ice. The descent from the pass to the campsite is very short and can be done easily using the margin between the moraine and the glacier on its northern side as it descends from the col.

Day 14: Acclimatization at Mera Peak BC:This is another acclimatisation day (at 5,300m), in final preparation for the climb tomorrow. Not only do we acclimatise further, we use the day to best advantage with a snow and ice training session on the snout of the glacier that descends from the Mera La. This "ecole de glace" provides essential skills training in the use of ice axe and crampons in readiness for the climb.

Day 15: Move to high camp (5,800m)Today, we make the climb to the high camp. This is located at about 5,800 metres on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. There is no need to make an early start but we must get our equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help with carrying this and the camp stores to the high camp. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is reached. Under normal conditions these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. This camp is in an excellent setting with wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains.

Day 16: Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m/21,246ft) The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually and much will depend on snow and general weather conditions. The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the highest is our objective. We reach this by following a classic snow-ridge to just below the final wall that guards the top. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb this last 50 metres. Your reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey the magnificent panorama from the top. After taking pictures and enjoying the view, we descend by the same route back to our campsite below the Mera La.

Day 17-20: Return to LuklaThe direct route back to Lukla can be comfortably achieved in 4 days. It crosses the exciting Zatrwa La pass (4,600m) before descending steeply into the Dudh Koshi valley and to Lukla. The pass gives plenty of opportunities for photographing the dramatic peaks around Mera. On arrival in Lukla we can relax, visit tea shops and bars, and prepare for tomorrow's flight to Kathmandu.

Day 21: Fly to KathmanduThe hair-raising take-off is followed by a 45 minute flight back to Kathmandu, where we arrive in the morning. Here we will be taken to the Hotel and the afternoon is free to get cleaned up and take a trip into Kathmandu, before the rather cheering farewell dinner in the evening hosted by Makalu Adventure in honor of the conquering crew.

Day 22: At leisure in Kathmandu.

Day 23: Final departure.

Amazing Fact! Thousands of climbers have climbed "Mera Peak" in Nepal believing they have conquered the highest "Trekking Peak" of the Nepal Himalayas. Indisputable evidence shows they have missed their target by 8 km (5 miles) and climbed an easy nameless mountain almost 200m low too.

The exact location for Mera is given in the list by Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation (MTCA), where the location for Mera Peak is North 27°46'27" and East 86°54'40". The location of False Mera where all the climbers have gone so far is North 27°42'24" and East 86°52'9". This can be checked from any map showing the latitude and longitude and the latest GPS (Global Positioning System) technology.

Should you prefer a different route or itinerary for this program, just let us know your interests and we will be more than happy to craft a tailor made trip for you in line with your specific preference.