Hi All, just starting a build thread, well lets call this a clean the car and issue fixing/problem solving thread to start with.

Just purchased the car and already have reconditioned the steering rack, replaced the rear gear box seal, tappet cover gasket and done some minor adjustments, the car runs real well, starts first go, good clutch brakes and is in fair condition, my plan is to clean it right up and do some small modification, happy to leave the engine kinda stock maybe the usual extractors, weber maybe but all in good time, will be asking for help and may be able to offer some, I previously owned a series 1 910 in the Metallic green and a 4 speed for around 9 years so the car is not to foreign to me,

Car is now on Historic plates and they are so small that i have to make adaptor plates up to mount them

Neato! Take care of that interior, brown is very very uncommon. Probably only seen 1 or 2 other domestic brown interiors in my few years of Bluebirds.

Looks fairly tidy! As always keep it out of the weather and UV and it should last you well! B-pillar trims and some other plastics just don't hold together and are virtually impossible to replace unless you get another mould made.

Neato! Take care of that interior, brown is very very uncommon. Probably only seen 1 or 2 other domestic brown interiors in my few years of Bluebirds.

Looks fairly tidy! As always keep it out of the weather and UV and it should last you well! B-pillar trims and some other plastics just don't hold together and are virtually impossible to replace unless you get another mould made.

Happy Birding.

Hi Imago, you are correct with the interior colour very uncommon and yup the plastic do go brittle after a while and there are a few small parts on this car that will need to be changed already

Todays plan, take out the console and go over it, have a new gear stick boot and hand brake boot to fit at the same time, so looks like it has been out before and repaired with a hole lot of araldite, what do you expect for its age i suppose, broken on one side as well, 10 minutes to remove, 30 mins to pull apart, 2 hours to get all the glue off.

so don't think i can just go and buy a new one so a repair job will have to be done, has anyone tried plastic welding and will also have to repaint after patching the holes that were made to screw it all together, because of the colour i am just thinking of going all black, what do you think

well after some thought , I cleaned the console got all the old glue off it and put it back together, still has a few cracks in it but after it was cleaned up and some small painting done it came up ok, well it is never going to win any show and shine trophy's and it keeps original, didn't make it go any faster

also fitted the historic plates, had to drill some holes in the front plate to fit and with the back I got an old number plate painted the back of it and riveted the new plate to it, came up real nice

I great weekend was spent doing small things to the car and am looking forward to a good day out on the road with it

You could always re-glue the cracks on the back. Or use a plastic bumper repair glue on the front. Then sand them flat. Primer it then paint it again. Colour of your choice or use a textured bumper paint?

You could always re-glue the cracks on the back. Or use a plastic bumper repair glue on the front. Then sand them flat. Primer it then paint it again. Colour of your choice or use a textured bumper paint?

didn't think of bumper repair glue, will have a look what I can get, the process sounds correct just don't have the place to paint any more, miss my old shed

yesterday my mechanic was kind enough to let me use his wash bay, he has a great set up, was able to degrease the whole engine bay and all the drive train and all under the car, it was real dry and no sign of oil leaks from when we fixed the rear gear box seal, noticed that the car has monroe GT gas rear shock on it ( bonus ), no signs of rust at all but need to tap out and straighten the jack points.

i gurney the whole lot and drenched the engine bay, was a bit hesitant but with my mechanic there well how can you go wrong, let it sit for 10 mins and she started first pop, drove it out in the sun and let it dry, took the dizzy cap of and there was a little bit of moister but just wiped it out and let it dry,

also got a quote to fix the rust that is in the boot and 2 little spot in each from door, was quoted $600 for the lot up to under coat, i think that is cheap

there are small rust patches around the boot water channel, the have been patched but not to good, looks like they have used that steel putty, i would say 8 match box size patches, there is a little bubbling on the drivers side rear boot just under the back window were the quarter panel meets the middle panel, dosent look real bad but you can see it, the other side need some repairs in the same join but can't see any rust and two small bits of rust showing 5 cent piece size one in each from door jam just were there is a rubber grommet

the price did not include removing and replacing the back window, also the new window seal and boot seal and i also will take out the rear lights and parcel shelf & rear seats

at this stage there is no sign of water leaking in to the boot and the panel beater said i have a bit of time up my sleeve before it gets to serious

Hmm. Is it a glue in seal on a bluebird or just a regular rubber seal with silicone? I know one my car, i removed and installed the windscreen seals myself. They're quite easy to do. The price is provably right but depending on how difficult the parts are to replace. Ie. Location and complexity I shape. You could justify buying a welder and doing it yourself for that price and getting it to undercoat. Then you've basically come out in front...?

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