Paul and Lucy Spadoni periodically live in Tuscany to explore Paul’s Italian roots, practice their Italian and enjoy “la dolce vita.”
All work is copyrighted and may not be reprinted without written permission from the author, who can be contacted at www.paulspadoni.com

Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Tiramisù has its own day now, but don't let that hold you back!

Although invented less than 100 years ago, tiramisù is now
indisputably the most famous Italian dessert in the world. In fact, a study
conducted by the Società La Dante in 2008-09 concluded that tiramisù is
the fourth most important Italian term from “a historical and cultural” point
of view (the top three were pizza, spaghetti and espresso). It now has its own
day in food culture: March 21 has been designated “Tiramisù Day” by an Italian
food organization.

Tiramisù from the local EsseLunga, which actually rivelsthe restaurant variety and includes six servings.

A study carried out by the Associazione Italiana
Lattiero-Casearia (Italian Dairy Association) in 2012 found more than 14
million occurrences of the word “tiramisù” in the search engine on the Chinese
web, and the name of the dessert appeared 7.8 million times on Japanese
language websites, 3.4 million on German, 3.1 million on French and 2.2 on
Spanish websites. In addition, English language websites told the story of and
how to prepare “the original Tiramisù” 18.6 million times. Culinary authors
Fernando and Tina Raris also point out that in Japan Tiramisù has become a
“status symbol” among young and adult people, and customers rush shops and pubs
that display the Italian flag and “Tiramisù for sale” signs in their show
windows.

Friends, Tiramisù and a good game of Scrabble--la dolce vita!

Though there are many recipes, tiramisù is generally a mixture
of espresso, creamy mascarpone, marsala (and sometimes rum as well) and usually
a type of ladyfingers called savoiardi. It is all topped with cocoa powder and
chilled, then served semi-freddo. The Italian name tirmisù translates literally
to “pull me up,” although “pick me up” may better correspond to English usage.
While food aficionados worldwide agree on its merits, tiramisù does generate
plenty of controversy regarding its birth.

An entire book on the popular dessert was published in 2017,
titled Tiramisu: Storia, curiosità, interpretazioni del dolce italiano più
amato. Authors Clara and Gigi Padovani researched its much disputed origins and
are convinced they discovered the truth. They maintain the recipe was
originally created between 1940 and 1950 in Italy’s region of Friuli-Venezia
Giulia. Chef Mario Cosolo invented the recipe at his restaurant Al Vetturino di
Pieris and originally named it tirimesù, with is a dialectical variation on the
mainstream Italian spelling.

However, the region of Veneto is largely responsible for
popularizing the dessert across the world. Chef Paolo “Loli” Linguanotto of
Alle Beccherie restaurant in the historical center of Treviso, who also claims
to have invented tiramisu, has done much to popularize the treat. Another
Treviso restaurant, Al Fogher, makes something called coppa imperiale, which it
claims predates tiramisù but contains the same basic items.

Gigi and Clara Padovani

It was the Padovanis who proposed Tiramisù Day, collaborating
with the Italian food chain Eataly and choosing March 21st because, as they put
it, “There’s nothing better than tiramisù to celebrate the arrival of spring
and to leave the grayness of winter behind.” On the initial Tiramisù Day in
2017, the Padovanis were joined by Flavia Cosolo, daughter of Mario Cosolo, as
she prepared the original tiramisù recipe that her father created.

It’s perhaps fitting that the Veneto should receive much of
the credit, since coffee was first introduced to Europe from Egypt through
Venice, where a flourishing trade between the local businessmen and Arabs
enabled a brisk trade of commodities. Because of its eastern roots, coffee was
at first considered sinful and regarded as an Islamic threat to Christianity.
However, its popularity grew, and Pope Clement VIII, upon sampling the heathen
drink was instantly enamored by the unique taste and aroma. Apparently, he
decided it would be a greater sin to deny people such a delightful beverage,
and thus it was deemed acceptable and spread rapidly through Italy.

As for recipes, they vary widely, and I’ve not tested any of
them. I am more of a gourmand* than a chef, happy to try out the creations of
others who have more experience in the kitchen than I. Mascarpone and the
savoiardi that many people use in their recipes can be hard to find, unless one
lives in Italy or near a store that stocks authentic Italian food. The
authentic recipe used by the Cosolo family can be found online (though the
directions are only written in Italian, I believe), as can English versions of
Loli Linguanotte’s recipe. My advice, which I follow religiously, is to
celebrate Tiramisù Day at least once a month at the most convenient restaurant
or bakery. Amen.

---------------------------------------------------------------

“The gourmand is no fussbudget, because he spends
his day not in finding ways to say no but in finding ways to say yes.”
(Robert Appelbaum, Dishing It Out. Reaktion Books, 2011)

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About Me

First off, before you hassle me about our title, Lucy thought of it. Yes, I know some people may think broad is derogatory, but the etymology is uncertain and she doesn’t find it offensive, and it made me laugh. We have been married since 1974 and are empty-nesters now, which allows me to bring my submerged Italophilia into the open. We first came to live in Italy from February-April in 2011 and have returned during the same months every year. From 2011-2015, we lived in San Salvatore, at the foot of the hilltop city Montecarlo, where my paternal grandparents were born, raised and, in 1908, married. In late 2015, we bought a home in Montecarlo. We come for a variety of purposes: We want to re-establish contact with distant cousins in both Nonno’s and Nonna’s families, we want to learn the language and see what it is like to live as Italians in modern Italy, we like to travel and experience different cultures. Even if we aren’t successful at achieving these purposes, we love Italy and enjoy every moment here, so there is no chance we will be disappointed. I am grateful to God for giving me a wife who is beautiful, clever, adaptable and willing to jump into my dreams wholeheartedly.