Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

08-24-2011 09:54 AM

Clark18

I agree with getting help from more experienced racers. Attend an SCCA (or NASA) event and talk to the drivers, they are always willing to help and you will have a lot of fun watching the action.

08-23-2011 03:17 PM

Jack FFR1846

More seat time. Try to ride with instructors during their sessions if you're not working a corner or in the classroom. The difference between a n00b's time and his instructor on a 1.5 mile course in the same car is typically 14 seconds a lap. (Lime Rock, NHMS as example tracks). Also carefully look at the track for where you might take a chicane where you can literally go straight through. NHMS turn 12 entry comes to mind. Your car is a momentum car. Watch what experienced guys in Miatas do. Or watch the ITA front wheel drive cars in an SCCA race when they're out of traffic. Don't focus on what you can do to the car. When I took my instructor test with SCDA, Bill Prout (look him up) got in his spec neon and told me to get in the passenger seat and instruct him. After checking me out, he took 2 or 3 laps. I'll tell you what.....he put a few BMW 3 series cars to shame with a spec Neon. Seat time over all else.

07-19-2011 04:01 PM

chriskobi

Quick question about throttle bodies since it has been mentioned. I assume the opening diameter is the important part of an aftermarket TB? The bigger the better (up to a point of course) Is there any particular crappy brand? its basic function is to let air in right, is there a preferred brand?
This probably could go in engine performance section but we were just talking about it.

07-19-2011 03:50 PM

chriskobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1turbofocus

A good way to add 20-30HP is a SVT header , 2.5 exh , drop in filter , TB and a tune would net you a good 20+ HP to the wheels and you will be surprised what it will do on the track , a lot of this you can find used here on FF

I have a 2.5 exhaust in it (came with it) I'm going to get a new muffler because this one sounds horrible at high RPMs not natural sounding at all.
I do plan on getting new TB and tune but also want to get new camshafts and valves, but not sure what order to do it in. I imagine the tune will be last, at least it makes sense. I also want new wheels but that comes in the "looks" category.

07-19-2011 03:11 PM

1turbofocus

A good way to add 20-30HP is a SVT header , 2.5 exh , drop in filter , TB and a tune would net you a good 20+ HP to the wheels and you will be surprised what it will do on the track , a lot of this you can find used here on FF

Tom

07-18-2011 01:16 PM

chriskobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by GodLovesUgly

Correct, it's a PowerWorksSuperCharger

i would just pick up a beater hatch for rally, then build it for rally only. less of a headache. plus Rally beats up the car pretty bad, i'm not sure if i'd want to rally a car then take it on the track where speeds can reach the triple digits..

You have a good point there. I have been looking at the costs of building a rally car and comparing that to a used older rally car. I have seen used ones (group 2) from 4000. on up. cost of a cage is starting around 3500. then I would need seats, belts, electronics, suspension. I'm sure there are more but that's just a few. So yeah It would make way more sense for me to buy a used one probably save half the dollars and headache.

07-15-2011 04:53 PM

GodLovesUgly

Correct, it's a PowerWorksSuperCharger

i would just pick up a beater hatch for rally, then build it for rally only. less of a headache. plus Rally beats up the car pretty bad, i'm not sure if i'd want to rally a car then take it on the track where speeds can reach the triple digits..

07-15-2011 01:51 PM

chriskobi

What is a PWSC? I tried googling it but got no definitive answer. My best guess is a supercharger of some sort?

Yeah a lot of those guys wouldn't hold back and I don't blame them, I actually like the turns more than the straights I like the technical aspects of them. I've actually heard that Pacific raceways is probably one of the most technical courses around hear, with all the elevation changes and turns. I really hope to get to go out there and play more and learn as much as possible. I have started the process in getting my novice license now I just need to get a car prepped for racing or rent one. The original goal was to have the car built for Group 2 rally and just rally but I need to do something in between rally so I figure circuit racing would be a good choice since the operate year round. It may be a pain in the ass but I figure I could use the car as a dual purpose car. I figure id have to change out the suspension and wheels and I could get by. The cage is my biggest hurtle at the moment. I'm not sure if its the wisest plan. I have been looking at the Pro3's they seem fun and very cost effective to race on a budget.

07-14-2011 03:15 PM

blueovaldave

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriskobi

Bluovaldave, As far as cornering you are totally right, it handles really well and when I do it right I can gain lots of distance from the Porsche, Mustangs and Sti's. If I could beat them to the first turn after the long straight I seemed to be ok, If I didn't they would easily pass me. I wish I had someone there to time me. we were all there for classes so in no means was it really competitive.

It is really hard to make it work in the corners if the guys won't "breath" the throttle a little bit to let you go on the straights.
If you are better in the corners and are on a guys ass coming to the straights the proper way to run is the guy let's you go and then the next lap you will stretch out on them.
Most guys ego won't let them do this though and unless you have good corner workers that will help you with passing flags, ect or instructors that pay attention it is hard to do.

07-14-2011 12:57 PM

shlbygt

From the track map and satellite photo of the track you would need to get as much speed as possible exiting turn 8. A couple of mph there would give a higher top speed towards turn 2 if you could carry the speed through the jogs in the track. Similarly you will need to get out of turn 3B cleanly to make speed towards 5A.

From the videos you were using all of the track at the exit of 8 which is good. If you notice a number of the other cars were not. They were leaving a lot on the table by not finishing off the turn properly.

I tell my students to get on the power as soon and as hard as they can to the point where you wonít need to get out of it.
Most people apply too much throttle too early and too hard, then back out and back on again. It is a real momentum killer, especially in a low horsepower car.
I ask my students if they have taken calculus (see, book learnín ainít all bad after all). Think about the area under a curve. A nice throttle application would be a smooth arc upwards that maximizes both the time the throttle is applied and the amount of throttle. Someone who gets on the throttle a tick later or applies it too soon and has to back off would have a jagged line with spikes and valleys. Less area under the curve.

I run a SVT Focus with Cobalt pads, they are phenomenal. I do much of my ďacceleratingĒ while under braking because the car stops so well.
Most folks starting out do not use their brakes as efficiently as they could. Many back off the throttle, coast down a ways then apply a little brake, then a little more before turn in. Exactly as you would while driving to work approaching a signal light. On track the rules are different.
Keep on the throttle to the braking zone and then get on the brakes hard until turn in. If the car has ABS, find out where the threshold is and get as close to that point as you can before the turn. On a non ABS car it will take a bit more practice.

As for more power, it is nice but wonít necessarily make you faster. I have a friend that I run with at Mosport. He has a SVT with Hoosiers and a Torsen. I have a PWSC SVT with NT01ís and a Torsen. So I have more power but his tires are a little stickier.
When we go out to play I can run him down and pull away at will with my power advantage all day long.
However, he has larger testicles than I.
In turns 1 through 4 he carries way more speed than I am comfortable with. He brakes later and less and gets back on the power a little earlier. He also keeps the car up in the rev band while I tend to short shift.
If we were in identical cars, he would simply pull away from me and it would appear to anyone watching that he had tons more power because of the distance he gains exiting the turns. In a 20-25 minute session he would probably be 3 or 4 turns ahead by the end of the session.

This thread has more than 10 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.