Anyways, I've seen some of you guys mention racing TCS in Maryland and was wondering if anyone was familiar with the Glen Burnie race. I'm planning on going out there this summer and was wondering what their tracks are like (indoor, outdoor, carpet, asphalt, sticky, loose, tight, open, etc). Any input or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

The track at Glen Burnie is outdoor, course asphalt, pretty good traction (they prep the racing line with something sticky, and usually open. It is not a permenant track, the local racing club sets up the track before each race. the straight is almost always 100ft. Their are no outlets for electricity but enough people bring generators and share. A couple of $$$ for gas will cover you for the day. The locals are a great bunch of racers and provide a friendly/helpful atmosphere.

P.S. Installing LED headlights would probably be nice, since there is a chance of the late mains running just past dusk. *Wink*

Need a bit of help. My buddy bought my TB03 off me and has learned to drive with it. Its been bumped and broken but we have replaced all the broken steering knuckles and C hubs as its been damaged. He is better at driving it now but it pulls HARD left under acceleration. When I used to race it I noticed some torque steer because it being shaft drive but this is crazy.

The car is a 17.5 with a 4.29 final drive set up for RCGT. The ride height is 5 front 5.5 rear and the droop is about 9 total. The car is spooled on the front with CVD's and run on carpet. The rear diff seems smooth also running CVD's. I can't feel anything is in the drive train binding and the shocks all are bled, smooth and working nicely.

Any ideas? I need to look at the car tonight at the track and try to get it to not pull to the left so hard. He is getting really frustrated with it.

Need a bit of help. My buddy bought my TB03 off me and has learned to drive with it. Its been bumped and broken but we have replaced all the broken steering knuckles and C hubs as its been damaged. He is better at driving it now but it pulls HARD left under acceleration. When I used to race it I noticed some torque steer because it being shaft drive but this is crazy.

The car is a 17.5 with a 4.29 final drive set up for RCGT. The ride height is 5 front 5.5 rear and the droop is about 9 total. The car is spooled on the front with CVD's and run on carpet. The rear diff seems smooth also running CVD's. I can't feel anything is in the drive train binding and the shocks all are bled, smooth and working nicely.

Any ideas? I need to look at the car tonight at the track and try to get it to not pull to the left so hard. He is getting really frustrated with it.

check your tweak (shock length, droop screws, tweaked chassis). as well as left to right balance.

i'm planning to run my TB03 with CC Mamba Max 5700kv motor for the upcoming event here..
basically the chassis has been 90% hopped up with tamiya optional parts..
kindly suggest me the recommended set up for the chassis..
currently running 96T spur with 34T pinion..
track surface is tarmac.
pls advice.TQ

i'm planning to run my TB03 with CC Mamba Max 5700kv motor for the upcoming event here..
basically the chassis has been 90% hopped up with tamiya optional parts..
kindly suggest me the recommended set up for the chassis..
currently running 96T spur with 34T pinion..
track surface is tarmac.
pls advice.TQ

i'm planning to run my TB03 with CC Mamba Max 5700kv motor for the upcoming event here..
basically the chassis has been 90% hopped up with tamiya optional parts..
kindly suggest me the recommended set up for the chassis..
currently running 96T spur with 34T pinion..
track surface is tarmac.
pls advice.TQ

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Neither. Your more in the territory of a 7.5T. Novak's Ballistic 7.5T is listed at 5800rpm/volt. Their 8.5T is 5000...

Of course adjustable sensor timing and dyanmic timing ESCs make it much more difficult to compare...

wow... cant help that poor guy then. ive never run anything faster than a 10.5 and that was before the v203 craze. i say grab a set up from the tamiya site for mod...and just use that a starting point.

So, I decided to make the switch, ditched my TA-05, and will be running a TB-03 this summer. I used to love my TC3, and can't wait to be giving the shaft again.

Anyways, I've seen some of you guys mention racing TCS in Maryland and was wondering if anyone was familiar with the Glen Burnie race. I'm planning on going out there this summer and was wondering what their tracks are like (indoor, outdoor, carpet, asphalt, sticky, loose, tight, open, etc). Any input or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Markus pretty much summed up what to expect at the Glen Burnie TCS race. I think they spray sugar water down. I would say the traction is medium as far as asphalt goes. Last year they used a high speed flowing layout. The guys up there are really nice and friendly. Oh yeah and don't wear flip flops I did a face plant there last year while turn marshalling on no sleep....got pegged in the ribs by GT3 cars as I laid in the track, it wasn't pretty lol.

As far as set up goes, start with something on the softer side and work your way up. I would suggest higher roll centers, and medium to soft spring.

Need a bit of help. My buddy bought my TB03 off me and has learned to drive with it. Its been bumped and broken but we have replaced all the broken steering knuckles and C hubs as its been damaged. He is better at driving it now but it pulls HARD left under acceleration. When I used to race it I noticed some torque steer because it being shaft drive but this is crazy.

The car is a 17.5 with a 4.29 final drive set up for RCGT. The ride height is 5 front 5.5 rear and the droop is about 9 total. The car is spooled on the front with CVD's and run on carpet. The rear diff seems smooth also running CVD's. I can't feel anything is in the drive train binding and the shocks all are bled, smooth and working nicely.

Any ideas? I need to look at the car tonight at the track and try to get it to not pull to the left so hard. He is getting really frustrated with it.

Along with what Hebiki said to check, I noticed you said you the front end had to be replaced as well. Make sure your c hubs are installed the right way. We had someone local to me get in a hurry to fix their car in between rounds and installed 2 lefts. Also in your inspection of the drivetrain, inspect the spool cups for notching. If they are notched bad, the axle will bind into the notch and cause weird things to happen.

Droop settings on tub cars can be a little tricky. Most tubs are tweaked a little because of the fact they are molded. To make more accurate measurement of droop on the TB or TA series cars, I recommend you measuring axle height using a caliper. Consistent droop settings will correct 95% of torque steer problems on shaft drives.

i'm planning to run my TB03 with CC Mamba Max 5700kv motor for the upcoming event here..
basically the chassis has been 90% hopped up with tamiya optional parts..
kindly suggest me the recommended set up for the chassis..
currently running 96T spur with 34T pinion..
track surface is tarmac.
pls advice.TQ

As Hebiki said, the setups for 416 transfer over well as starting points for the car. I would use c blocks up front or maybe even d's for the stability at those speeds. Make sure you have all upgraded drivetrain and the aluminum diff is a must. White front, blue rear springs would be a good starting point. Make sure you watch the bottom of the chassis for scraping. Going that fast its easy to do and will make the car slide all over the place in sweepers. If you need more detail let me know.

Your going to have to get the car balanced weight wise very well. Suspension settings need to be accurate left to right. Your going to have torque steer, but its not all that bad as long as the car is set up right.

You can run 64 pitch if you prefer, but I recommend that you just use 48 pitch for the strength for mod. Belt drive's absorb a lot of the backlash from braking, and accelerating and fair better with 64 pitch. Shaft drives have no give....your pinion and spur teeth being the smallest contact points in the drivetrain will give first. I've run 4 turn brushless with no issues in reliability with my TB03.

As Hebiki said, the setups for 416 transfer over well as starting points for the car. I would use c blocks up front or maybe even d's for the stability at those speeds. Make sure you have all upgraded drivetrain and the aluminum diff is a must. White front, blue rear springs would be a good starting point. Make sure you watch the bottom of the chassis for scraping. Going that fast its easy to do and will make the car slide all over the place in sweepers. If you need more detail let me know.

Your going to have to get the car balanced weight wise very well. Suspension settings need to be accurate left to right. Your going to have torque steer, but its not all that bad as long as the car is set up right.

You can run 64 pitch if you prefer, but I recommend that you just use 48 pitch for the strength for mod. Belt drive's absorb a lot of the backlash from braking, and accelerating and fair better with 64 pitch. Shaft drives have no give....your pinion and spur teeth being the smallest contact points in the drivetrain will give first. I've run 4 turn brushless with no issues in reliability with my TB03.