When I was introduced to these burgers, a creation of the chef Suvir Saran, I was struck by the brilliant idea of using sweet potatoes as a binder. I’ve struggled to find ways to hold my burgers together, and this solution was perfect. Try to find light-fleshed sweet potatoes; they are drier, and a little less sweet than orange yams. I also love all the textures in these hearty patties. I have made some changes to Suvir’s recipe, roasting the potatoes rather than boiling them, and I use less oil.

Preparation

Bake potatoes in a 425-degree oven as directed. When tender, remove from the oven, allow to cool until you can handle them, peel and place in a bowl. Mash with a fork.

While potatoes are baking, cook the farro. Combine with 3 cups water in a
medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, add salt to taste and cover. Reduce heat and simmer 50 to 60 minutes, until grains are tender and beginning to splay. Drain well and set aside.

Remove needles and leaves from rosemary and thyme sprigs and place in a large frying pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add pepper and heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the herbs begin to crackle. Add chopped peanuts and cook for 2 minutes, or until golden and fragrant, and stir in chopped mushrooms and about 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt (or to taste). Cook, stirring often, until mushrooms have released all of their liquid and there is no more liquid in the pan, about 8 minutes. Stir in wine and continue to cook, stirring, until there is again no liquid left in the pan. Remove from heat and transfer to the bowl with the potatoes.

Heat another tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in the pan and add shallots. Cook until tender and beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and scrape shallots into bowl with mushrooms and potatoes. Add farro and Parmesan and mash everything together. Add salt and pepper, taste and adjust seasonings.

Take up a heaped 1/3 cup of the mixture and form into a ball (you can wet your hands to reduce sticking). Roll ball in panko or chickpea flour, then gently flatten into a patty. Set on a plate and continue with remaining burger mixture. Refrigerate uncovered for 1 hour or longer (the longer the better).

When you’re ready to cook, place a rack over a sheet pan. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a 12-inch, heavy nonstick frying pan over high heat. Swirl the pan to coat with the hot oil. Lower heat to medium. Place 4 to 5 patties in the pan (do not crowd), and cook until well browned on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn and brown for about 4 more minutes. Remove to rack. Heat remaining oil in the pan and cook remaining patties. Keep patties warm in a low oven until ready to serve. Serve with a salad and your choice of toppings, such as the usual (ketchup, mustard, relish), or yogurt raita, garlic yogurt, or chutney.

Tips

Advance preparation: You can form the patties and keep them refrigerated for up to 2 days, or cook them all the way through and keep them refrigerated for 2 or 3 days. Reheat on a baking sheet in a low oven for 10 to 15 minutes. The patties freeze well. Thaw completely before reheating.

Note: The farro will cook a little faster if you soak it for an hour in boiling water to cover. Place it in a bowl, pour on boiling water and leave for 1 hour, then drain.

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