Good friends of mine have a Kenmore Belt drive portable washer (70's or so) and about 6 months ago it burned up the belt. I replaced it and it has been working fine until recently. They had told me it was clunking and I did hear it, but being where it is located, I really wasn't into doing anything to it until it quit again. Well, it hasn't quit yet, but the clunking has turned into banging, and it isn't spinning or draining properly. It starts to drain, tries to kick into spin and stops draining, then kicks out of spin with a huge bang. Repeatedly. If I leave the lid open until the tub is empty, it will eventually spin out, but obviously something is wrong. Replacing it is not an option because a full size washer just won't fit. I know almost nothing about the workings of a belt drive whirlpool, and need to fix it on the first try. It is located in their bathroom, between the toilet and corner shower, and has to be lifted from the front, up and over the toilet to get to the back access panel. Impossible to do with 2 strong people, very difficult with 3. We may actually just take the toilet bowl off the floor to get it out this time. The matching 110v dryer has been working beautifully since I replaced the rollers about the same time as the washer's belt. Just de linted it yesterday. Any help is appreciated!

These machines won't spin when the water level pressure switch is still satisfied. It sounds like water is partially draining enough to un-trip the switch, then the machine completes the spin circuit and starts to spin.

Spinning the tub with water in it is probably causing an out of balance situation which would explain the banging. The sloshing water of a partially filled tub will then temporarily re-satisfy the pressure switch and the spin will stop until the switch allows spin again.

What is causing the slow drain is the clincher here. Is the drain hose kinked? Is there a blockage like Malcolm wondered? Is the pump failing? Is the drain hose too narrow?

You mention "if I leave the lid open until the tub is empty, it will eventually spin out"... do you mean that once the water has drained completely that spinning works consistently without any banging?

If not, with the tub empty of water and clothes, does spinning work properly?

I guess I didn't explain very well about the banging or slow/no draining, it starts draining just fine, then tries to kick into spin (as it always has) but maybe 2-3 seconds later, kicks back out of spin with a loud clunk/bang, then repeats the performance multiple times. When it tries to spin, the flow from the drain hose slows to a trickle or nothing, then as soon as it kicks out with a bang, starts draining again properly for a few seconds until it tries to spin again, then slows/stops draining again. If the lid is left up until it is empty, the drain will flow normally, and it may only start/stop/clang/bang a couple times, then ramps up to normal spin speed. If the tub is empty (no water or clothes) it will clunk once and ramp up to speed. It has always gone in/out of spin a few times before ramping to full speed (usually starts trying to spin with about 1/3 a tub of water) but has only started the clunk/bang within the last couple months, and the draining issue only started recently, along with the noise getting louder. Again I know I will have to move it to repair it, but total replacement is not an option at this point, the funds just aren't there. A front loader would be nice, but absolutely will not fit, the current washer sits about 4 inches from the toilet on the left, against the wall on the right, and about 6 inches from the shower in front. There isn't room for a front door to open at all. It's a tiny one bedroom house, so there is no other place for a washer. The dryer is actually in the kitchen, right next to the table, and a full size dryer would make it impossible to sit on one side of the table. Tiny house lol.

2) Pressure switch tube/connection at tub. especially as you're having to tilt this washer a lot. Maybe water or suds or something partially blocking that tube? Same electrical stuff as (1).

3) Blockage in drain hose, pump, sump? Hose kinked?

4) The lid open is interesting. Is the lid-safety switch also involved (more than one problem?)

5) Timer. Ick. Double-Ick. Unlikely, but worth checking.

Oh course, I'm assuming the usual stuff like the drainpipe is clear, the floor is level, etc. Nobody suddenly switched to a high-sudsing detergent?

I'd absolutely not replace this washer unless you have no choice. We have a DD version which is a super fast spinner and washes unbelievably well. The later models with their jury-rigged half-hearted electronics have all been worthless junk. I'd avoid them like the pest. Whirlpool took what had been a really solid performer and turned it into a piece of trash when they went down that route.

1. Wig wag- no clue but may have something to do with it, won't know until it is hoisted out of its corner.

2. Pressure switch and hose- nope, it fills properly and all.

3. Blockage in drain hose/pump/sump- possible but unlikely, as it drains properly until in tries to engage the spin, then slows/stops until it clunks out of spin, then drains properly again. It will pump water out once it reaches full spin speed.

4. Lid switch- nope. Opening the lid allows it to continue draining but it won't spin with the lid open.

5. Timer- nope. The timer is working properly, it runs through the cycle fine, wash, drain/spin/spray/spin, rinse, drain/spin/spray/spin.

I'm at a loss as to what might be wrong with this thing, it was very low mileage when I got it for them but has been used quite a bit in the last 9-10 months. As far as I've seen they don't overload it or anything, but did have their daughter staying with them for a short time and she would overload it sometimes. It was working fine at that point though, and has been for the last 6 or so months (after I replaced the original belt). They don't use high sudsing detergent, and have moderately hard water so really no detergent is high sudsing in their water. I'm almost thinking maybe the new belt has loosened or stretched causing it to slip as it's trying to ramp up to spin, causing the pump to slow or stop. That really wouldn't explain the clunking though. It's a heavy metal to metal clang.

It is drained into the bathroom sink, which isn't backing up, so no issues there, and the floor isn't terribly level or sturdy, but the problems aren't balance related. Yes it will shake and vibrate during spin, but the problems are before it gets to that point- when it tries to spin with water still in the tub, it only gets up to maybe 30 rpm before it kicks out within 10 seconds. Then repeats itself until either the lid is lifted to continue draining or until it eventually gets enough water out to spin or the cycle times out.

As far as I know there is no drain restriction, as long as it's not trying to spin, there is a forceful stream coming out of the hose. The hose is a bit different from a typical washer drain hose, but no doubt original. The hose exits the washer in a typical? 1"? 1 1/2"? Size, then immediately narrows to maybe 1/2" or maybe 3/4"? The hose is smooth gray rubber with a loop at the end to hang on a sink.

Whether it should or not, I don't know, the lint filter continues to flow until the water level has dropped below the pump inlet (I'm guessing here). If it tries to spin, the lint filter is flowing, then as it drains and ramps up, the water eventually stops flowing from the filter.

I may go over this afternoon and watch it through a whole cycle, taking details and pictures, and see how many times it actually attempts to spin, when it clunks, etc. I don't want to actually move it until we have a general consensus on what is causing the problems, because it is HEAVY and requires 3 people to lift it out, and put it back. I want to move it out once and back. Actually I don't want to do that even, but it will have to be done!

As others have explained, a Whirlpool (or Kenmore) old-style belt-drive washer won't spin until the water level pressure switch resets ... the pressure switch is in the circuit with the wig-wag spin solenoid when the timer is on a spin position.

If drain is slow and the timer advances from neutral drain to spin with enough water remaining in the tub such that the pressure switch is not reset, neutral drain will continue until the water level drops sufficiently.

The spin solenoid on the wig-wag triggers at that point and spin begins ... but the remaining water in the tub swirls/kicks-up from the spin, which typically triggers the pressure switch to engage again and spin stops, reverts back to neutral drain. Spin starts again when the basket brakes to a stop, the swirling water settles, and the pressure switch resets again. This spin / neutral drain / spin / neutral drain sequence will repeat until enough water is drained that it doesn't swirl/kick-up high enough to trigger the pressure switch.

IMO (unless there's something specific about compact models of which I'm unaware), if the machine ever goes into spin during normal cycle progression without the water being fully drained (1/3 of of a tubful is a lot to be remaining), then there's a problem of some ilk, ostensibly the drain route is restricted somewhere. Maybe a sock or other piece of clothing is in the outer tub partially blocking the drain port.

The drain may be restricted because of the narrow hose, *but* that doesn't solve the problem of why it stops draining immediately when it tries to engage the spin, not after the tub spins up to speed, but as soon as it engages. It either slows to a trickle or stops completely. Then, as soon as it disengages the spin with a loud clunk, water starts gushing from the hose. I really don't think there is anything in the outer tub blocking the drain.

The compact belt drive washers have a 4 minute drain before they try to spin. All water should be out before spin starts, if not you have a drainage problem. The reason the water flow slows down when it goes into spin, is the water in the tub is keeping the tub from coming up to speed properly and slowing the pump down.

It may partially be a timer issue then. It does drain before it tries to spin, but I highly doubt it is 4 minutes. More like 45 seconds to a minute. That is how it's worked since I picked it up for them. Partially drains, then multiple attempts to spin. Any ideas what may be causing the clanging and banging?

One thing to check for is once draining starts, does the washer try to start spinning before the timer moves an additional increment? Time how long each timer increment is... I believe they should be 2 minutes. In between the wash and spin portions of the cycle, there should be at least one if not two increments of the timer (ie: 2 or 4 minutes) where the neutral drain occurs, and the timer does not send power to either wig-wag. If the washer tries to start spinning in the increment immediately after the agitation stops and draining starts, then that is not normal.

One other thing you can try is a different cycle on the timer to see if the same thing happens in that cycle.

You may need to time the neutral drain as well as monitor the timer advancement.
I suspect there should be 2 increments of neutral drain before spin is engaged. Additionally, the water level may have been adjusted too high which invites small items to hope the edge of the tub and get down to the drain port. Perhaps a long shot, but we are all throwing stones in the dark...

I would get over there and examine operation yourself as soon as possible.

The water level is definitely not too high, I've thought about raising it a bit but never actually have. I'm pretty sure it's one of the first portables, I'll snap a couple pictures of it when I go over there, probably this evening. It definitely doesn't start spinning immediately after agitation stops, it drains for maybe 45 seconds to a minute, then starts attempting to spin.

from what I have seen, all portables had a 4 minute drain, already built in for purpose of using a sink connector, hence the smaller hose restriction...still way more than enough time to drain out the tub...

timer increments, at least for a electromechanical timer is 2 minutes.....only machine I ever see to alter was an electronic/digital machine, which would measure and account for when the tub was empty, to jump into spin.....so as a small load would not take as much time to drain as a full tub...my own experience has been with a direct drive machine....

but even my full size, super capacity, 1984 belt drive had a 4 minute drain....
and all water was gone before the first two minute part was finished....the rest seemed a waste....

but actually, is this a true 24" portable?......or the one with retractable wheels?

It is a portable with retractable wheels, one fill valve and push to start timer. No temp control, load size is set by turning the knob past the fill portion of the cycle, otherwise it is a full load. Two speed motor with normal, delicate and permanent press cycles. Gold straight vane agitator, waterfall manual clean lint filter.

I'll be going over to check it out today, I was planning on going yesterday, but by the time I got other things done, it was getting a little late, and roads were getting a little slippery, and it's a 15 mile drive.

That this machine is designed to have a standard drain hose and not the thinner hose for a 24" portable.
They may need to switch out the hose, then pay extra attention to the basin the machine empties into...

I went over and observed it's operation, started a load- filled, started agitating (with a slight clunk, nothing too unusual), drained for 50 seconds, then made a large, loud clunk into spin (not out of spin as I'd previously thought), with about 1/4 tub of water. Kicked out of spin and almost immediately back in with another loud clunk. Immediately upon kicking into spin, all draining stopped, and as soon as it kicked back out, a strong stream of water was gushing from the drain hose. Would have continued on until either the spin cycle had finished or all the water drained so I just lifted the lid to stop it from spinning. In about a minute, the tub was empty and there was nothing flowing from the drain hose, so I closed the lid and let it get on with spinning. Again, large heavy clunk and all draining stopped, but slowly recovered as the tub gained speed. This time it did it's spray rinses and continued on into the rinse. Same story at the final spin- it kicked in with loud clunks and stopped draining, then back out and began draining. I left the lid up until the tub had emptied and it worked fine, same clunk but eventually came up to speed and drained the spun out water. The machine is agitating perfectly fine, draining well as long as the lid is left up, and coming to full spin speed after a large clunk. I then started a second load with the lid up, and as it was filling I closed the lid to hear a loud buzzing (possibly a solenoid?) Which stopped as soon as the lid was lifted (but continued to fill), then started back as soon as the lid was closed. Filled to its proper level and washed, and as soon as I heard it draining, I lifted the lid until the tub was empty, then closed the lid to begin spinning (single loud clunk), same for rinse minus the buzz while filling. I'm thinking the belt is slipping for one, but that isn't causing the clunking noise. I will attach a couple pictures, the first should be the water level and lint filter flow while washing, the second a picture of the washer and it's current location.

On top of the transmission there is a bar that goes across the top of the both cam bars.It's called a cam bar spring. It is held down by a screw that I believe has a 7/16 or 3/8 head. These sometimes loosen And the spring loses it's hold down tension. When the cam bar shifts during the spin cycle and it will make a very loud clunking noise. You can tip the machine on its face and access the nut with a combination wrench and tighten it down again. This will eliminate the noise when the agitate solenoid or the spin solenoid are activated.It will shift silently. This will fix it.

I'm really starting to think that there is something either wrong with the timer, or a short somewhere in that power is being sent to the spin solenoid on the wig-wag all the time. Maybe a contact that is stuck closed in the timer? This would explain the buzzing sound you hear during filling and why it stops when you lift the lid, and also why the machine is going into spin too quickly. The only thing that is preventing it from spinning while it is agitating is the pressure switch being satisfied, but once it starts draining, as soon as the pressure switch is no longer satisfied, power gets sent to the solenoid and the washer tries to start spinning, and kicks out once the water rises and re-satisfies the pressure switch (as others have explained). Another thing that would confirm my theory that the solenoid is on all the time is if the washer takes longer to stop spinning at the end of the spin period with the lid left closed than when the lid is opened mid way though the spin cycle. If the spin solenoid stays energized after spin, even though the timer cuts power to the motor, the washer does not shift out of spin and thus the brake is not applied, so the spin coasts to a stop rather than brakes. Lifting the lid interrupts the power to the solenoid, causing the washer to shift out of spin and apply the brake.

Actually if the lid is opened during spin it takes a bit to slow down, but there is obviously some braking going on, the brake may be weak but it's doing something. The buzzing solenoid is only heard during the wash fill, and not always. it stops as soon as agitation starts. (It is loud enough to be heard over the machine) I'll venture out today and see what roads are like (got quite a bit of snow last night) wnd if not too bad I may go over and see if we can get it moved out. There may be a timer problem or something similar, but I'm just trying to get it spinning and draining properly, and eliminate the clunking noise. The short drain and buzzing on wash fill have been present since I picked the machines up for them nearly a year ago.

A single 50 second increment of neutral drain doesn't seem quite right.
The timer schematic might be on the service panel on the back of the cabinet.
Perhaps the timer was replaced at some point with a 50hz model causing it to cycle fast?
There may also be a hose between the pump outlet and the cabinet joint the is partially kinked.
After the clunk into spin, does the machine fall silent until it gradually picks up spin speed?
Clutch might be grabbing and need adjustment.

Your clunking noise is a mechanical problem. Typically on these belt drive units the belt goes bad because something made it go bad.

The pump is the most popular failure. Likely it's binding up, and only pumping when the motor is at full speed. Once the basket engages, there is no longer enough torque to make it all happen. The drive system should turn by hand easily, if not, there is something wrong.

Your problem is definately the cam bar spring based on it being louder than the noise on the video. As far as the general noiseness you can't compare a Lady K with a belt drive portable. Both great machines but different sound levels while running.

If I put it into a spin cycle empty, it gives a single loud clunk and then spins normally. The thing is, I had a 24" direct drive machine at the time they got these, but given the location, at the time it needed to connect to the faucet for water supply, and needed a long drain hose and power cord. They have since installed an outlet next to the washer and ran a permanent water line (although only cold, ick!) So a 24" direct drive would be doable now, they would just need to install a hot water line and a longer drain hose.

You have several problems going on here, first the clunking going into spin [ which is not causing any performance problem by the way ] is probably a loose cam bar hold down spring as already mentioned, tightening the bolt that holds it down will probably eliminate the noise but the washer will not work any better.

The reason the washer stops pumping out remaining water once it tries to spin is because the belt is loose and the clutch is not slipping properly so the belt starts slipping on the motor pulley and since the belt has slowed down so much the pump can not pump water at all. *

You might have a bad timer, these washers had a 2 or 4 minute pump out period, also the buzzing sound that goes away when the lid is lifted during fill raises questions, The only electrical part that goes through the lid switch is the spin solenoid on this washer. The machine could also have some shorted wiring.

* foot note The ONLY reason a belt ever fails of a BD WP washer like this is that it is loose, A tight pump etc Can Not cause the belt to burn and fail. The great majority of WP BD washers ever in use have loose belts after a good number of years of use, the washers often run fine like this for years as long as everything goes well, but finally the belt looses traction as the wig-wag tries to shift into or out of spin or agitate and the belt stops moving and the motor keeps running and burns through the belt, we have seen this somewhere around 3000 times over the years.

Is there anything within reason that can be done to make the clutch slip properly? The washer does seem to bog down a bit when it is going into spin, but does work fine once the tub is empty. Should I check the tension of the belt and tighten it?

You should tighten the belt, it's not hard to do, just take the back panel off and hit/tap motor with a hammer to tighten belt to 1/2 inch indention.
You may have a timer issue also, pump out time for this washer is 4 minuets.

My parent brought this true no frill 24 inch standard capacity washer and boy did we do a lot of laundry for a family of 6!

lift up the top and see that if the drain hose is kinked inside where it hooks up to the gooseneck going out. You should make sure the belt is tight. I doubt you have any clutch slippage problems. I wouldn't go there until you address the drainage issue and the cam bar tightening. This machine that s doing everything it should with these problems.These were amazingly durable machines. Even better than the later versions they came out with. Good Luck! Do the easy things first!

Remove back panel and loosen the 9/16" nut above the base plate 1 turn, also loosen the other 9/16" nut on the front motor mounting bracket 1 turn, then take a pry bar at least 14-20 inches long and place between the two motor mounting brackets from the rear of the washer and pull the pry bar to the left until the belt is tight, and while holding it tight tighten the rear 9/16" nut above the base plate. At this point release tension on the pry bar and tighten the front 9/16" nut.

There is no other correct way to tighten the belt on a WP BD washer and what ever you do DO NOT hit the motor with a hammer as you may destroy it.

If this washer has the three pad clutch lining the clutch will now slip correctly as the washer accelerates into spin, if it has the older full friction lining like a car clutch you may have to spray the lining with a silicone lubricant to get the clutch to slip properly as the basket accelerates to full spin speed.

I plan on going over Tuesday to hoist it out of its corner and dig in, it will take 3 strong guys to lift it out, so it may be sitting out for a bit if I'm not able to get it working properly. Will see what I find and update when I get home :)

I think I can explain the single clunk, there is a screw that holds down the cam bars if it gets loose the spin cam bar will ram into the motor making the loud clunk. Tighten it and that noise will go away.

Update.... It isn't fixed.... We moved it to find the cam bar spring and bolt laying on the floor under the washer. It took me all of 2 hours to get the bolt and spring back in place, which required me to lower the transmission. After reassembling everything, it now doesn't drain at all (I think I have that one figured out, I think I have the belt on wrong) and.... Agitates and spins at the same time! The cam bar solenoids are both working, as it appears to be shifting (cam bars are moving), but it spins as soon as the lid switch is pressed during the wash cycle, while it is agitating.

And I have to go back tomorrow and figure something out, it's sitting in the middle of their kitchen. I did measure the space and a standard 27" washer will fit, tight, but it should be able to be done. If I can't figure this thing out, that will be the next step.

It is now operating properly, agitating and spinning, not at the same time! It's now draining, and has done a few loads, but now LEAKS. I ran one load before even putting it back in its corner, and it didn't lose a drop. A 6 foot trip into the bathroom and over the toilet (staying upright the entire time), and now it leaks like a sieve when going into the spin cycle. Not a drop on any other portion of the cycle, but once it drains and starts to spin, water is leaking from somewhere. I'm over this washer, every repair has been a nightmare.

Is it possible there is a drain backup issue? What is it draining into? If it didn't leak before you reinstalled it why would it pour water now? Just wondering. I hate to see you give up after all this.

It drains into the bathroom sink, which isn't backing up. I almost wonder if maybe the tub ring (cover?) Is loose or maybe has a bad seal? I couldn't exactly see where the water is coming from, but it appears to be on the right side near the front, it doesn't seem to be coming from the lint filter. It isn't the pump, or it seems like it would be leaking whenever the washer is running, right? It's only leaking when it is spinning.

You should be able to watch it in spin with the top lifted up. At least it may help you locate the leak? I bet it's something simple at this point. Don't give up. Look how much you have already learned. Don't get frustrated.

We have success! It's working properly and NOT leaking! Found out the drain hose was loose and causing the water to leak inside the cabinet, running across and under to the front right side. Ran a load and all seems fine, no more clunking and banging, washing, draining and spinning. I'm going to go over probably tomorrow and put a larger diameter drain hose on to help it drain a little better.