New routes by club members

This is a list of some of the routes first climbed by CUMC members. Some of the routes are rather impressive. If you know of any new (or missed/forgotten) CUMC first ascents then please let a member of the committee know.

1912, Jun

Route 1

Moderate

Sheepbone Buttress

C.A. Elliott and party

1912, Jun

Route 2

Difficult

Sheepbone Buttress

C.A. Elliott and party

1912

Mitre Buttress Ordinary

Moderate

Grey Crag, Buttermere

C.A. Elliott and party

1913, Dec

The Barn Door

Moderate

Eagle Crag

A.C. Pigou and party

1915, 4 Jul

Mitre Buttress Direct

Very Difficult

Grey Crag, Buttermere

A.C. Pigou and party

1927, Mar

Arete and Slab Climb

Difficult

Bochlwyd Buttress

C.H.S.R. Palmer

1927, Apr

Alpha-Beta Route

Glyder Fach

H.G. Wager, P. Lloyd, B.K. Harris

1927, 14 May

Long Chimney Pitch 1

HS 4b

East Face of Tryfan

Ivan M. Waller

Technically the crux pitch

1927, 7 Jun

Belle Vue Bastion

VS

Tryfan

Ivan Waller, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1927, 11 Sep

Fallen Block Crack

VS

Clogwyn-y-Ddisgl

Ivan Waller

1928, 28 May

West Buttress

VS

Clogwyn d'ur Arddhu

J.L. Longland, A.S. Pigott, F.S. Smythe, W. Eversden, Morley Wood

1928, Jun

Birch Tree Wall

VS 5a

Black Rocks

Jack Longland, Ivan Waller

The tree was originally indentified as a beech - by a future Director of Education. The tree subsequently disappeared in 1950.

1928, Jul

Lone Tree Groove

VS 4c

Black Rocks

Ivan Waller

An ice axe was used to remove huge quantities of turf prior to the first ascent. Ivan was disappointed to reveal 'just an ordinary boot climb, quite long and interesting, but not at all difficult except at the start.' The route was originally called The Scoop and the Sine Nomine Exit (Ivan Waller July 1929) left it on the right.

1928

Purgatory Route

Lliwedd

Jack Longland, L.R. Wager

1929

Birch Tree Sidle

East Peak, Lliwedd

Jack Longland, G.L. Trevelyan

1929

Geography Climb

Idwal Slabs

F.R.G. Chew, Miss Maud Gordon, R.C. Wakefield

The name is only readily intelligible to gentlemen of Trinity, where Sir Christopher's Wren's Library is adorned with four large female figures on the parapet, by some supposed to be Faith, Hope, Charity, and - she with the globe - Geography!

1930, Easter

Javelin Blade

E1 5b

Holly Tree Wall, Idwal

Jack L. Longland

An outstanding lead that stood as the most difficult piece of Welsh climbing for many years, though few were aware of it. 'Quite frankly I'd lost my way. I'd come to the famous thread belay at the end of the first pitch of the normal route (Javelin Buttress VS), and I didn't know that the route ought to go right. I was a pole vaulter, which I think gives you pretty strong fingers, and I remember the pull-out onto the actual blade of the javelin was very strenuous; though not dangerous I had a belay about 40 feet below me'.

1930

Lean Man's Superdirect

VS 4c

Black Rocks

Alf Bridge, Ivan Waller, Jack Longland

Waller considered a lead of the route to be unjustifiable and consequently the route was left un-recorded and un-named for 15 years. It was repeated (in 1945), by Peter Harding who, thinking it to be a new route, gave the route its name.

1930

Bengal Buttress

HVS 4c

The Roaches

Ivan Waller

'Some characteristic holes near the left-hand corner mark the start and are followed to a small but good ledge. This is passed in favour of a higher ledge which is followed to the right with increasing respect. The improving angle deludes one into anticipating some relief, but in actual fact the sharp corner above provides an awkward and exposed finish' - 1951 guidebook.

1931, 9 Jul

Youth Crack

Diff

Nant yr Ogof, Ogwen

J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1931, 10 Jul

Square Chimney Buttress

Severe

East Buttress, Glyder Fach

C.H.S.R. Palmer, S.B. Darbishire

1931, 13 Jul

Llyn

HS 4a

Clogwyn y Tarw, Ogwen

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Edwards

1931, 13 Jul

East Wall Girdle

VS

Idwal

J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer

First climbed in boots.

1933, 23 Jul

Hothouse Crack

VDiff

Clogwyn y Geifr, Ogwen

J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1933, 24 Jul

Devil's Pipes

HS

Clogwyn y Geifr

J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer

Palmer climbed the lower tower later that year.

1935, 16 Jun

Flat Chimney

J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1935, 25 Jun

Steep Wall

VDiff

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

C.H.S.R. Palmer

1936

Javelin Gully Direct Finish

HS

Idwal

Jack Longland

1937, 9 Aug

Bivouac Buttress

Diff

Craig Lloer, Carneddau

C.H.S.R. Palmer

1937, 11 Aug

Gnat's Gnose

Severe

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.A.B. Gray

1937, 13 Aug

First Trinity Groove

VDiff

Craig Lloer, Carneddau

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.A. Ingham

1937, 13 Aug

Chimney Buttress

Diff

Craig Lloer

J.A. Ingham, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1937, 20 Aug

Second Trinity Groove

Severe

Craig Lloer

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.H. Buzzard

1937, 23 Aug

Fence Climb

VDiff

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

J.H. Buzzard, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1944, 26 Aug

Skyline Chimney

Diff

Craig yr Ysfa, Carneddau

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise

1944, 30 Aug

The Overhangs

VS

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

J.M. Bechervaise, C.H.S.R. Palmer

The variation was added much later, 18th September 1977, by Palmer. 'Climbed alone, and as an elderly gent of my advanced age (72), I found some of the moves very difficult and the exposure considerable. But it amused me and might amuse a few others of my vintage'.

1944, 30 Aug

Crack and Wall

VDiff

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

J.M. Bechervaise, C.H.S.R. Palmer

1944, 30 Aug

Airy Corner

Diff

Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise

1944, 6 Sep

Giant's Steps Buttress

VDiff

Bristly Ridge, Ogwen

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise

1944, 6 Sep

Two Tower Buttress

VDiff

Bristly Ridge

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise

1944, 6 Sep

Great Tower Buttress

Severe

Bristly Ridge

C.H.S.R. Palmer

1944, 10 Sep

The Chateau

Severe

Bristly Ridge

C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise, J.P. Walker and J.B. Williamson

1950, Sum

Uncle's Chimney

Very Difficult

Ben Alder

CUMC Party

1950, Sum

Left-Hand Chimney

Severe

Ben Alder

CUMC Party

1952, 10 Jun

Bloody Slab

E3 5b

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

J. Streetly (1 P.A.)

Also previously known as Red Slab. The rest of the party were unable to follow. The hardest slab in Wales at the time and only Streetly's second climb on the cliff. One peg runner was inserted after 70 feet of climbing!

1954, 13 Jun

Sickle

VS

Trilleachan slabs, Glen Etive

Eric D.G. Langmuir, M. J. O'Hara, J. A. Mallinson

1954 14 Jun

Spartan Slab

VS

Trilleachan slabs, Glen Etive

Eric D.G. Langmuir, M. J. O'Hara, J. A. Mallinson (3 P.A.)

Rather better than their first route, a genuine classic.

1955, June

North-Eastern Grooves

VS

The Minus Face, Ben Nevis

R.O. Downes, M.J. O'Hara, Eric. D.G. Langmuir.

Climbed over 2 days with one PA, climbed free on 11 Jun 1960 by Downes O'Hara and Prestige

1956, 11 June

Minus One Direct

HVS

The Minus Face, Ben Nevis

R.O.Downes, M.J. O'[Hara, M. Prestige (1 P.A.)

1956, 30 Aug

Centurion

HVS

Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis

Don D. Whillans, R.O. Downes.

1956, 1 Sep

The Shield

Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis

Don D. Whillans, R.O. Downes

1957, 21 Jun

The Ruritanian Climb

Severe

Garadh Na Ciste, Ben Nevis

CUMC Party

1967, May

The Mushroom

VS

Craig-y-Rhaedr, Wales

M.R. Sinker, R.J. Isherwood (AL)

1967, May

The Lobster

VS

Hen Cloud, Peak District

M.J. Guilliard, R. Whittacker

1967, Jun

The Sewer

HVS

Craig-y-Rhaedr, Wales

M. Boysen, R.J. Isherwood (AL)

1967, Jun

Kaleidoscope

VS

Carnmore Crag

G. Macnair, R. Jones (AL)

1967, Jun

Connie-onnie

VS

Carnmore Crag

R. Jones, G. Macnair (AL)

1967, Jun

The Sword

VS

Carnmore Crag

R.J. Isherwood, E. Birch

1967, Jun

Penny Lane

VS

Carnmore Crag

E. Birch, R.J. Isherwood (AL)

1967, Jun

Strawberry Fields

VS

Carnmore Crag

G. Macnair, R. Jones (AL)

1967, Jun

Trampoline

VS

Carnmore Crag

R. Jones, G. Macnair (AL)

1967, Jun

The Cracks

VS

Carnmore Crag

E. Birch, R.J. Isherwood (AL)

1967, Jun

Compensation

Severe

A'Mhaighdean

R.J. Isherwood, E. Birch (AL)

1967, Jul

The Curate's Egg

VS

Clogwyn-y-Ddysgl

R.J. Isherwood, C.H. Taylor (AL)

1967, Jul

Hydra

VS

Esk Buttress, Lakes

R.J. Isherwood, C.H. Taylor (AL)

1967, Aug

Aquila

Severe

Craig Na H'Iolaire, Torridon

J.L. Cardy, G. Halkyard

1967, 22 Oct

The Cracks

HVS 5a

Gogarth, Anglesey

J.M. Kosterlitz, R.J. Isherwood (AL)

1968, May

Mousetrap Zawn Girdle

E2 5b

Gogarth, Anglesey

M. Howells, J.M. Kosterlitz

1969

Long John's Slab

E3 5c

Froggatt

Al Rouse (solo)

First free ascent.

1970, Jun

Gemini

E4 5c

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

A. Rouse, L. Dickinson

Only the leader's second visit to the cliff!

1970, 19 Sep

Vagrant

VS

Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms

M.G. Geddes, H.M. Gillespie

1970, 27 Dec

Fairy Godmother

III

Creag Megaidh

M.G. Geddes, N.C. Raynor

1970, 28 Dec

Ugly Sister

III

Creag Megaidh

M.G. Geddes, N. C. Raynor

1971, 15 Mar

Aphrodite

IV, 4

Three Gully Butress, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, J.C. Higham

1971, Mar

Positron

E5 6a

Gogarth, Anglesey

A.P. Rouse, P. Minks (5 P.A.)

Rouse flew off the route whilst Minks was rather more interested in the songs on the accompanying transistor radio.

1971, Apr

Hadrian's Wall Direct

V, 5

Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, G. E. Little (1 P.A.)

1971, 21 Dec

Phoenix Buttress

III

Garbh Coire Mor, Braeriach

M.G. Geddes, J. S. Robinson

1972, Mar

Right-Hand Route

VI, 6

Minus Face, Ben Nevis

R. Carrington, Al Rouse.

1972, 11 Mar

South Pillar

IV, 4

Creagh Megaidh

R. Carrington, Al Rouse.

1972, 1 Jul

The Sand Piper dir. Finish

HVS

The Stag Rocks, Cairngorms

M.G. Geddes, J.C. Higham

1973, Jan

Nick the Neck

VDiff

Craig Cwrwgl, Ogwen

Nick J. Estcourt, C.T. Jones

'Much better than poncing back down those odious gullys'.

1975, Wint

The Citadel, Winter Var

VI, 8

Shelter Stone crag, Cairngorms

Al Rouse, B. Hall

1975, May

Aura

E2 5b

Craig yr Isfa, Carneddau

R. Carrington, Al Rouse, B.Hall

An utterly brilliant main pitch.

1975, Jun 29

Head for Heights

E5 6b

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

C.J. Phillips, N.J. Estcourt (4 P.A.)

1976, Mar

Left Edge Route

VI, 5

Gardyloo Buttress, Ben Nevis

R. Carrington, Al Rouse. (1 P.A.)

1976

Neutrino

E1 5b

Gogarth, Anglesey

A.P. Rouse, B. Hall

1977, 29 Dec

Sickle

V, 5

Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, B.P. Hall

1978, 21 Jan

Albatross

VII, 6

Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins

1978, 4 Feb

Five Finger Discount

IV, 4

Two Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins

1978, 11 Feb

Shot in the Dark

V, 5

Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, Al Rouse

1978, 12 Feb

Route II Direct

VI, 6

Carn Dearg Buttress, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, Al Rouse

*'Then the headlamp came off. The wire tangled with slings, the slings tangled with the axe, and panic threatened.' Despite an early start the climb was finished in the dark. Three pegs for tension were used, but an important ascent and probably Geddes finest contribution to Nevis.

1978, 25 Mar

The Six-track Mono Blues

II

Meall Gorm, Applecross

M.G. Geddes, B.P. Hall, A. McIntyre, J. Porter

1978, 8 Apr

Burrito's Groove

IV, 5

Two Gulley Buttress, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins

1978, 14 Apr

Galactic Hitchhiker

VI, 5

Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis

M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins

A tied-off knifeblade was used to enter the corner at the start of pitch 4. 'Up and down I went on that awful peg, searching for adequate holds until my strength and warmth were almost gone. Finally I found enough...'

1978, 22 Apr

Lepton

E2 6b

Curbar Edge

Al Rouse, Nick Colton, Rab Carrington

All soloed: later claimed by Ron Fawcett as Kaffleout.

1982-83

Groat (n\ufffde Al's Ar\ufffdte)

E1 6b

Burbage North

Al Rouse, Richard Haszko

1983, 7 Oct

Nicotine Stain

E1 6b

Burbage North

Al Rouse (solo)

1983, 4 Dec

Dark Water

E3 6b

Stanage

Al Rouse, 'others'

1983, 6 Dec

Findus

HVS 5b

Millstone Edge

Al Rouse, Phil Burke

1983, 7 Dec

Quality Street

E5 6b,6a

Millstone Edge

Al Rouse, Phil Burke (AL)

1984, 15 Feb

Reagent

E5 6a

Stanage

Al Rouse (solo)

1984, 3 Apr

Andy Pollitt's Jacket

E3 5c

Curbar Edge

Al Rouse (solo)

Top-roped first. Named in honour of Andy's new 'freebie' jacket.

1984, Apr

Make it Snappy

E6 6c

Gardom's Edge

Neil Foster, Al Rouse

1984, May

Green Line

HVS 5b

Stanage

Al Rouse (solo)

1984, Sep

Regret

E2 5c

Stanage

Al Rouse, Neil Foster

1984, 13 Oct

Blind Date

E5 7a

Burbage North

Al Rouse

Al's finest hour. Eventually climbed in sections after many attempts. Soon after the first ascent, the boulder which just allowed a desperate 'splits' bridge to begin the route strangely migrated towards the crag making the start easier. This boulder has now gone altogether, thereby making the start appallingly difficult.

1984, 13 Oct

Led A Dance

HVS 5b

Stanage

Chris Plant, Brian Davison, Alan Dance

Note the name of the third man.

1984, 14 Oct

Rockhopper

E1 5c

Lawrencefield

B. Davison, S. Biskill

1984, 24 Nov

Error of Judgement

E1 5a

Cilan Head, Lleyn Peninsula

R. Jones, B. Davison

1984, 16 Dec

Fast and Bulbous

E2 5b

Park Banks Crag, Lower Churnet

Brian Davison, Richard Jones, Neil Horn

1984, 26 Dec

Tough Guy

V

Tough-Brown Face, Lochnagar

A. Nisbet, B. Davison

First Winter Ascent

1984

The Wild and the Innocent

E2 5b

Kinder North Edge

Steve Payne, Robin Pakeman

1984

Uncertain Smile

E1 5b

Crag Caerfai, N. Pembroke

Richard Jones

1984

Sea Creature

E4 6a

Millstone Edge

Al Rouse, Andy Bailey

1985, 27 Apr

Friendless

HVS 5a,4b

Cilan Head, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, Ray Delaney

1985, 28 Apr

Livingston I Presume

VS 4c,4b

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, R. Delaney

1985, 28 Apr

Horus

VS 4c

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, R. Delaney

1985, 28 Apr

Jivin Jaki

VS 4c

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

R. Delaney, B. Davison

1985, 7 May

Wash and Brush Up

E1 6b

Millstone Edge

Al Rouse (solo)

1985, 12 May

African Herbs

E2 5c

Stanage

Al Rouse, Richard Hazsko

1985, Jun

Tower Block

E3 6b

Stanage

Al Rouse (unseconded)

1985, Aug

Rockers

E1 5c

Burbage North

Al Rouse, Steve Sustad

1985

Al

E4 5c

Stanage

Al Rouse, Steve Bancroft

1986, 6 Jul

Seal Clubbing

E2 5c

Dyers Lookout, Culm Coast

B. Davison, R. Jones, A. Smith

1986, 20 Jul

Sunday Stroll

Severe

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, A. Smith, Alan Dick

1986, 26 Jul

All Your Seasick Boaties, They Are Rowing Home

Hard Difficult

Crystal Slabs, Pembroke

Harry Adshead, Lewis Grundy, Pete Walker

1986, 27 Jul

Time Flies By

E4 5c

Park Banks Crag, Lower Churnet

Brian Davison, Richard Jones

1986, 9 Aug

Twrch Trwyth

HVS 5a

Penbwchdy

R. Jones, I. Hamilton

1986, 16 Aug

The Necromancer

E3 5c

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, A. Smith

1986, 16 Aug

White Magic Dust

HVS 5b

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

A. Smith, B. Davison

1986, 20 Sep

Friends Essential

E1 5b

Chasm East, Isle of Man

B. Davison, A. Smith

1986, 20 Sep

Scooper

VS 4b

Chasm East, Isle of Man

B.Davison, A. Smith

1986, 20 Sep

In the Beginning

E2 5b

Chasm East, Isle of Man

B. Davison, A. Smith

1986, 20 Sep

Moonburn

HVS 4c

Chasm East, Isle of Man

B. Davison, A. Smith

1986, 21 Sep

Antartic Caterpillar

E1 5c

Bulgham Bay, Isle of Man

B. Davison, A. Smith

1986, 27 Sep

Headless Donkey

E2 5b

Pembroke

Brian Davison, Andy Smith

1986, 27 Sep

Gin and Woodbines

HVS 5b

Pembroke

Richard Jones, Ian Hamilton

1986, 12 Oct

Anorexic Weirdo

E6 6c

Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula

B. Davison, R. Jones, A. Smith

1986, Sum

Agrajat

E5 6a

Glen Cova

Chris Cracknell

1986, Sum

Headspread

E4 6a

Glen Cova

Chris Cracknell

1986, Sum

Catwalk

E1 5a

Glen Cova

Chris Cracknell

1987, 17 Jan

Manx Wall

V

Clogwyn Du, Penbwchdy

Brian Davison, Gordon Scott

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