So I did a valve adjustment last weekend on my 95 R100RT and noticed that one of my rocker arms had some vertical play. If I remember right this is probably what is causing that head to be noisy and could potentially trash the rocker arms or worse if the needle bearings come apart...anyone have any experience with this? How long can I ignore it? There were 2 shims already in place (part 11 below). Do you add shims or try to keep the number of shims low?

They're available in different thicknesses, so instead of adding to the total number, you could just get thicker ones. That said, I cant see why it would really matter how you make up the thickness, but I would personally go for the least number of shims necessary to get end float where you want it.

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I wouldn't bring her home to Mama, but Mama ain't home tonight.

The needle bearing cages still break with no play there. I think it helps to have zero play but I know for sure that it doesn't stop needle bearing cages from breaking. You can adjust the play out exactly like you do on the earlier setups. You don't need any shims. I have adjusted them by squeezing in the blocks hundreds of times as have a number of other mechanics I know with no problems whatsoever. Besides, the shims don't come in enough sizes to get the end play as perfect as I like to get them. I use a modified Vise Grip C clamp. IMO it is THE best way to get the adjustment down to a gnat's ass.

I tried that approach using a C clamp. However it loosened back up and added a shim instead.

A "C" clamp does not work with the late style rocker arms as the end blocks are located into the head and there is no movement. Stick a feeler gauge between the rocker block and rocker arm to figure out how much play you have. Take that number plus the thickness of the shims that are already there to figure out what combination of shims you need. I agree- the fewer the better/easier

You can always fit one piece rocker gear where their is no play http://www.motoren-israel.com/produc...s--5--90S.html less any taxes they would work out well under euro 200 to those in the states. They still need shimmed once on initial set up ( you can do this off the bike on the workbench but nothing can move so are set for a very very long time - also very neat.

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'A tourist sees what he went to see,
a traveller sees what he sees'

Well, I guess all these years I have been dreaming. No, not really. A C clamp DOES work with the late model setup. It works better than shimming them. I have worked with quite a few that adjust them the old school way. It's easier, faster, cheaper, and better. The 'better' part sells me. Go ahead and shim them if you want, I am just trying to help some do a better job.

That MI setup looks like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. One thing I have noticed in life: Problems are easy to fix when you make them up to start with.