How can I spice up cabbage?

I have always liked cabbage but seem to eat it more than ever now that everyone tells us how good for us it is.

The two main types, the hard white one and the softer-leaved crinkly green Savoy are both great boiled the old fashioned way in big chunks then squeezed dry (my mum used to do it between two plates).

Put back into the empty pan with lots of butter, black pepper and a squeeze of lemon. The point is to be generous with the butter and pepper.

To brighten cabbage up I often use some sort of cured pork, either smoked bacon or milder, more aromatic pancetta. Try cooking the bacon in little strips till soft and lightly browned, then adding cooked, shredded cabbage to the pan, and tossing it in the hot bacon fat.

Garlic is another really good friend here. Fry chopped garlic in very hot oil in a wok or a large shallow pan till it sizzles and just starts to colour then zap in the very finely shredded cabbage.

The smell that wafts up will make even the most ardant cabbage-hater come running. Stir it round quickly till the cabbage wilts then serve it whilst it is still really hot.

The one spice that seems to have an affinity with cabbage more than any other is juniper - the little purple-black balls that smell of gin and tonic. Crush them and add them to a cabbage soup or to the butter that you toss your steamed or boiled cabbage in.

Another simple but stunning way with cabbage is to use it in little potato patties. Boil or steam the cabbage and mix it with an equal amount of mashed potato.

Season well with pepper, a very little grated nutmeg and a little fried bacon if you wish. Shape into patties - you'll need a bit of flour on your hands - then fry them till golden in a shallow pan with a little butter and oil.