Bowled Over?

Unclogging A Toilet Is A Simple, If Unpleasant, Task

As unpleasant as the prospect of repairing a toilet may seem, it`s even worse to live with one that needs repair. Fortunately, most toilet problems are relatively easy to fix.

If a toilet becomes blocked, causing it to overflow or empty sluggishly, first try using a flange-type plumber`s plunger to clear it.

This type of plunger has a cup with a funnel-shaped projection that fits snugly into the drain opening at the bottom of the toilet bowl. Never use chemical drain cleaner, which can cause injury if splashed onto skin.

Begin by putting on rubber gloves and mopping up any overflowed water. Clear the bowl of solid material. Place the plunger over the drain opening- the larger opening if two are visible. Pump about a dozen times, then remove the plunger.

If plunging pumps out the water in the bowl, or if remaining water drains normally when the plunger is removed, the blockage has probably been dislodged.

Flush the toilet. As soon as the bowl is half full, insert the plunger again and pump rapidly and vigorously while the water rises.

When it nears the rim, remove the plunger. The bowl should empty normally, and the extra water should clear the drain. Repeat the process if the toilet empties sluggishly.

Bail it out

If initial plunging does not significantly empty the bowl, bail out the contents with an unbreakable container. Inspect the inside of the drain passage, which slants upward, by placing a hand mirror in the bottom of the bowl at an angle while shining a flashlight against it.

If you spot a blockage, use a bent coat hanger to pull it out. If the passage appears clear, suggesting that the blockage is further inside the toilet, you will need a closet auger, available at most hardware stores.

The auger is a metal cable with a crank at one end and a corkscrew-shaped tip at the other. The cable is enclosed in a metal or plastic tube with a curved lower end.

Draw the cable out of the tube until the tip is against the tube`s lower opening. Place the auger into the toilet so the curved part of the tube rests on the bottom of the bowl and the tip enters the drain opening.

Holding the tube upright, twist and push the cable into the tube to feed the cable into the drain. When you encounter the obstruction, snare it with the tip by turning the crank handle clockwise, then pull on the handle to withdraw the cable from the drain.

Repeat the process until the blockage is removed or no resistance to the auger is felt. Remove the material drawn by the auger, then plunge the toilet while flushing it, as described.

If the toilet is still blocked, you may need to call a plumber because removing it from the floor may be the only way to reach the obstruction.

Checking for leaks

Moisture on the floor or on the outside of the toilet may be the result of condensation or loose connections. If you are not sure, open the tank and add a teaspoon or so of food coloring, enough to color it substantially.

Wipe the moist area dry, then wait without using the toilet until moisture reappears. If the moisture is colored, the tank is leaking. If not, the moisture is probably condensation.

To cure a leaking tank attached directly to a toilet bowl, tighten the bolts at the bottom. First drain the tank by shutting the valve in the supply pipe leading to it (turn the valve clockwise) and flushing the toilet.

Then, with a wrench, tighten the nuts underneath the rear of the toilet, holding the bolts stationary by inserting a screwdriver into their slots inside the tank.

Easy does it

Do not tighten the nuts more than a quarter-turn beyond hand-tight. Otherwise, you may crack the tank or bowl.

Also try tightening the nut beneath the tank that secures the flushing mechanism inside. Hold the mechanism with one hand to keep it from rotating and use a wrench to tighten the nut up to a quarter-turn.

If tightening the tank bolts doesn`t work, remove them and replace the rubber washers beneath their heads. If leaking persists beneath the flushing mechanism, try replacing the washer at its base.

Another source of tank leaks is the flush valve, the large opening at the base of the tank. To tighten the nut securing the valve or to replace the gasket sealing it, the tank must be removed from the bowl. Again, this may be a job for a plumber.

To repair a leaking wall-mounted tank, use a spud wrench to tighten the connections at both ends of the pipe that joins it to the bowl. If this doesn`t work, drain the tank and loosen the leaking nut or nuts.

Slide the nuts onto the pipe, remove any packing material (usually twine or putty), install new packing, then retighten the nut or nuts.

If the problem is condensation, you need to keep the tank from dropping below room temperature. Buy a toilet-tank lining kit of half-inch-thick plastic foam sheets and adhesive. The sheets insulate the tank from the cold water inside.

To install toilet-tank lining, first drain the tank and dry it completely with paper towels or a hair dryer. Then follow the instructions supplied with the kit.

If undyed water that does not seem caused by condensation accumulates around the base of the toilet, suspect a leaking bowl. This is best repaired by a plumber.