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Should be two screws on each side of the bottom of the front panel. Takes those out and push the panel up and out. (There are two "tabs?" in the middle of the front panel that lock into the side panels, so you have to push up and then pull out.)

if its less than 15 years old its a direct drive whirlpool, no belt, remove the cabinet, not the back panel. look up direct drive whirlpool washer cabinet removal on internet, and replace the coupler, most likely, if it drains.

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off. Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires. Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

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Related Questions:

If this is a top loading machine; remove the trim strips on the left and right ends of the dash. Then you'll see a screw at the bottom of each corner(left and right). remove (AND KEEP) the screws. Now the dash will lift and fold back.

Here are the steps.Hope this helps.
Insert a putty knife between the top of the
kick plate and bottom of the front panel near
the center of the washer, if you have an older
model top load washer. Move the putty knife blade
in and out in that area until you feel an
obstruction. The obstruction is the kick plate
retaining clip
Press the putty knife blade over the spring clip
until you feel the clip disengage. Let go of the
putty knife and grab both ends of the kick plate
with your hands. Pull the kick plate away from
the washer

ift the front of the washer with help from a friend,
if you have a front load model Whirlpool. Slide a
block of wood under the front of each side and gently
lower the washer
Remove the three hex head screws on the bottom edge
of the washer kick plate with a Phillips-head
screwdriver or nut driver. Pull the kick plate
away from the washer.

Removing the boot will require that the front panel, door switch and console be removed.
To remove the front panel first remove the three screws securing the toe
panel to the front of the washer and lift the toe panel up slightly
pulling it forward.
Next remove the two screws securing the top front panel to the washer. The front panel can now be removed.

Some Kenmore washers don't have removable end caps with screws underneath. These models usually have a spring clip mounted under where the end caps would be. In that case, use a thin putty knife to slip under the ends of the console to release the clips.

Also see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers. It details the two types of timers and how to access them.

The F35
indicates that the main control board detects a problem with the analog
pressure sensor (water level pressure switch) in the washer. This
component senses and controls water level in the washer. This failure could
be caused by a pinched or broken air hose between the air trap at the
bottom of the washer tub and the analog pressure sensor. It can also be
caused by a clogged air trap or a failed analog pressure sensor. If you
are able to unplug the washer and pull off the top panel, you can
check for the probable cause of this failure.

To remove the top panel,
remove the screws on the very back of the panel that secure it to the washer
cabinet. Pull the top panel back slightly and then and off of the washer. It is on the side wall just behind the expansion control board. You
can check the air pressure hose connection and the wire harness
connection on this component.

This component costs around $99.This information was based on the general description of the washer
model that you provided (Kenmore Elite front load washer). There are
several different models of this washer. I am not aware of
other uses of the F35 code on the various models. If you intend to diagnose
and repair this problem yourself, I recommend resubmitting your question
with the full model number of your Kenmore washer so that we can
verify this technical information using your model number.

When the pads on the front wear, it will make noise when running. They can be replaced. There is one on the top and one on the bottom rim where the drum turns. You remove the front to access them by removing the screws on the top. Post your model number for diagrams. It's usually stamped on a small tag in a visible location on your appliance.

Washer-Dryer- behind or on top of the control panel. Behind the door. On the lower front or side of the cabinet.

if u got rooom just tip the unit back and get acesss underneath it will be a lil bit tighter space to work but will save you the time and hassle of removin the concole......... u will need a part # 285753A- whirlpool motor couplling.... most those consoles remove though by screws on backside corners or front corners, remove those tilit concole back remove brass brackets, wiring lid switch, pull cabinet off hope this helps

if its less than 15 years old its a direct drive whirlpool, no belt, remove the cabinet, not the back panel. look up direct drive whirlpool washer cabinet removal on internet, and replace the coupler, most likely, if it drains.