I have driven a 3 Series since RFTs were introduced in 2005. I have had a couple flats, but never any problems with the rims.

As for the "ill handling", I have yet to read of any serious negative comments about handling by professional drivers who have tested the E9X or F30, other than the expected criticism of all season tires when a car was so equipped.

+ 1 I totally agree. 335BBS where did you ever get the BS that RFT destroy the rims when fully inflated? If they ever did BMW would be in sad shape.
cheers
vern

run flats rob you of performance and they cost twice as much... Do yourself a favor, buy normal tires, and then get a can of fix a flat... If you wonder what you should do with the other 500 buck I just saved you, I am always free for dinner as a thank you for the info

Driving without run flats its like driving without airbags. I think $500 bucks is worth it when you pop a tire on the highway. Plus you save the rims.

run flats rob you of performance and they cost twice as much... Do yourself a favor, buy normal tires, and then get a can of fix a flat... If you wonder what you should do with the other 500 buck I just saved you, I am always free for dinner as a thank you for the info

Driving without run flats its like driving without airbags. I think $500 bucks is worth it when you pop a tire on the highway. Plus you save the rims.

This is one of those things where it's tough to prove. BMW quotes the x drive at 4.8s to 60 with the run flats. 4.8 is more than adequate for most folks. If you can find a 335 x drive doing the deed in say 4.2s, which is impossible I guess so I will lower it to 4.6 then you have a point that rfts are robbing performance. Most publications have reported braking and lateral g numbers in line with the best in the segment, the ATS for example. The burden of proof is upon you sir

This is one of those things where it's tough to prove. BMW quotes the x drive at 4.8s to 60 with the run flats. 4.8 is more than adequate for most folks. If you can find a 335 x drive doing the deed in say 4.2s, which is impossible I guess so I will lower it to 4.6 then you have a point that rfts are robbing performance. Most publications have reported braking and lateral g numbers in line with the best in the segment, the ATS for example. The burden of proof is upon you sir

RFT will not impact straight line performance. Who gives a f3/-: about that? Try turning at speed on a track.

RFT have a different turn-in feel and address road undulations less well than conventional tires. This is easy to feel at any speed. However, most people do not notice/do not care.

An RFT is a hazard to rims only when inflated to a higher pressure and the very stiff. They are less forgiving on potholes as a result.

An RFT is no more dangerous to a rim once deflated than a normal tire, less so in fact as the stiff sidewall will help protect the rim.

I intensely dislike RFT and run conventional tires. I assume the little risk that I may have a flat and will be accordingly inconvenienced. Others see the equation differently and use RFT. Neither side is "right;" it is merely a preference.

I have driven a 3 Series since RFTs were introduced in 2005. I have had a couple flats, but never any problems with the rims.

As for the "ill handling", I have yet to read of any serious negative comments about handling by professional drivers who have tested the E9X or F30, other than the expected criticism of all season tires when a car was so equipped.

If you are on 17 you're probably ok and you're handling expectations are related. On a 19 there is about 1 inch of flexible sidewall. Any potholes and you'll bend a wheel. Firmness of sidewall is a detriment to handling . There are many threads about that.

If you are on 17 you're probably ok and you're handling expectations are related. On a 19 there is about 1 inch of flexible sidewall. Any potholes and you'll bend a wheel. Firmness of sidewall is a detriment to handling . There are many threads about that.

I agree that 19" wheels (or larger) make no sense; they are too vulnerable and too heavy !

I did some digging, apparently if you run an OEM BMW suspension you should run RFTs because the suspension was built with that in mind. After you make adjustments to the suspension though all bets are off and its preference.

The cons to RFTS: mostly the life of the tire is reduced (up to half of regular tire life) and they are more costly than conventional tires. They are also inherently heavier than a conventional tire. extra weight will lead to reduced performance through turns (don't track my car but I drive a ton of back roads and lay into her pretty hard) and the thicker sidewall will damage larger wheels easier than regular tires.

The cons to conventional tires: they leave you in a bind if you didn't bring a spare and don't have AAA. Not BMW endorsed w/oem non-sport suspension.

Google and do some reading if you disagree but thats what I've gathered...

Whatever you do, you should be aware that a special machine is needed to install run flat tires. Not all places, for example the BJ's closest to me, several service stations, and others, have that machine. My local BMW store is, in fact quite competitive on tires. I bought a run flat for $250 from them and they installed it for no additional charge. Several years ago, they were nowhere near as reasonably priced, charging around $400 dollars for the tire.

Drove home about a mile from the Depot on smooth roads and went immediately into a hard flat with bells and warnings on the dashboard. Got home to really FLAT, dead tire. 2013 335 M Sport.

BMW phone assist wanted to tow me to the dealer at 9 PM (currently closed) but said they might charge me for service after the fact so I declined (1100 miles and 6-7 weeks on the car).

I would prefer to avoid dealing with BMW directly because I basically don't trust the brand or their dealerships for anything other than initial core performance.

Any thoughts on how get better tires without spending stupid money?

Thx.

Don't want to deal with BMW? Have you bothered to read the tire warranty? Chances are, you'll get a free replacement by going to the dealer. Goodyear and, I am fairly sure, Perrellis come with a one-year road hazard warranty. Under a year with at least 5/32 of tread, it's a completely free replacement.

When this happened to me at 5K miles, I even got a free loaner while the tire was being ordered.

I don't think allot of people realize is that RF tech as improved considerable over the years. Looking up the specs for the stock run flats on the F30 are quite good and give nearly the same Milage life as normal tires. Your only concern with run flats should be ride quality and track performance on rims larger than 18. 19s Are a hard ride + RF = even harder. Ideally the average driver will be perfectly fine with RF flats. Theres a 5th gear video on youtube that shows a 5 series on a track racing with deflated run flats. Tiff was genuinely impressed.

Don't want to deal with BMW? Have you bothered to read the tire warranty? Chances are, you'll get a free replacement by going to the dealer. Goodyear and, I am fairly sure, Perrellis come with a one-year road hazard warranty. Under a year with at least 5/32 of tread, it's a completely free replacement.

When this happened to me at 5K miles, I even got a free loaner while the tire was being ordered.

I just broke in my 2013 335xi M sport with 19" 403M wheels. havent pushed it much at all (1220 miles on it now). I think i may have hit a pot hole some where and the side wall has a bulge.

Took it to the dealer, told me i have to replace the tire and quoted me 530$ with labor... Some one please provide some insight into what bridge stone covers. 1200 miles seems like nothing and I have driven it properly. I am frustrated right now and don't know if I should shell out 500$ for a tire or replace all 4 tires with regular tires and buy an after market spare

I just broke in my 2013 335xi M sport with 19" 403M wheels. havent pushed it much at all (1220 miles on it now). I think i may have hit a pot hole some where and the side wall has a bulge.

Took it to the dealer, told me i have to replace the tire and quoted me 530$ with labor... Some one please provide some insight into what bridge stone covers. 1200 miles seems like nothing and I have driven it properly. I am frustrated right now and don't know if I should shell out 500$ for a tire or replace all 4 tires with regular tires and buy an after market spare

Break the shrink wrap on the CD you were given with the tire warranties on it and read the manual.