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Pneumag Debacle

Hey all

So Ive had my Mag forever, I like the way it shoots. Had a Hyperframe on it long ago till I fried it changing the battery. Since then Its been sitting with the Benchmark single trigger frame on it. Its starting to show wear in the chrome on the rear of the grip and was looking to buy an Intelliframe, but almost all of them that I find are dust black or gloss black... 90% of my Mag is chrome or poished aluminum.

So I have a few options that Ive been debating on:
1) Purchase a new single trigger frame off flea bay, 32 degrees, chrome with grip, minus trigger, $18 shipped. Then try to pneumag this frame? It looks as though this particular frame would need a ton of work

2) Purchase it anyways, try to pnuemag my Benchmark and have the 32 degrees frame if anything goes horribly wrong, from pictures online and looking at my own frame it seems the Benchmark would require less "trimming", milling etc. (most likely do this with a drill press and hand tools)

3) Buy an Intelliframe that seems "somewhat" hard to find, spend hours polishing the anno off to match my mag, then try to pneumag that frame, if I screw it up Im out a "rare" frame and hours of polishing...

It may seem like a clear cut answer to some. But I honestly dont care about walking a trigger, I have a DP G4 that I play with a single finger all day anyway. Id just like to have a crisp, short trigger pull

Also, just to humor me, Ive read a bunch of threads that recommend sending a frame off to get this done... how much is this service typically?

This is what I want to put it on, and have it look exactly how it is now when finished (just no reg outside the grip)

An RT on/off will help with pull weight if you don't have one already.

The other thing you can look at is some trigger alterations. Depending on your setup, you might benefit from a rear trigger stop. If your trigger keeps going back after the bolt is released, you're shoving the on/off pin further up into the o-ring. AGD single frames often don't have much over-travel if the trigger rod has a good gap behind the trigger. There's certainly enough meat on the benchmark trigger to put a set screw through it.

You may need a stop if you alter the top of the trigger. Benchmark triggers have that circular cutout at the top that cams the trigger rod, instead of just pushing it straight back. It makes the pull longer and lighter. You can fill in that notch with epoxy or solder and get a more direct pull. This will also shorten your pull. You have to shape it at the right angle so that the rod doesn't pop-up in the middle of the pull, which is just annoying.

Pneus are short and light, but I wouldn't call them "crisp", since they don't have any kind of break.

If you do want pneus, Loguzzzzz[z] is certainly a good place to start.

Thanks for the advice guys! I looked into some pricing for chroming and that's some crazy talk... $300- $400 to redo the 4 pieces I have on my gun. I looked into it a little while ago because its always bugged me that my CP on/off asa is a different tint of chrome.

So ill pretty much stay away from the 32 degrees frame.

But I was wondering, maybe what I'm looking for in a trigger would just be solved by getting the intelliframe? How does it compare to say... a wgp factory hinge frame? The one that's technically only a 1 1/2 trigger (shorter than a double trigger for some reason)

Only reason I ask is my little brother had a trilogy and that trigger was horribly long

If I decide to stick with what I have ill look into trigger stopping

Thanks again! I've got some deciding to do.. also, nobody has said a ballpark price to send my stuff out for pneumag?

Thanks again! I've got some deciding to do.. also, nobody has said a ballpark price to send my stuff out for pneumag?

Each frame is different and it's hard for anyone here to quote you a price unless we are doing the work. I can say that just the pneu components, MSV, Ram, Magnet mods etc. run $45-50 or so. An LPR is going to run anywhere from $15+ for a Twister to $25+ for a Palmers Micro Rock. So you are looking at $60-$100 just in the components necessary for the pneu conversion.

Yeah I've already been looking at the kit in the f/s section and then I've been checking eBay for lprs, I was thinking about doing a 90* off my asa on the second port, then just running a karnivor (twisty) chrome reg.

I figure I'm going to have to run a line to the grip anyways with my drop forward, so the clean factor gets taken away. May as well be a small clear hose instead of micro line, plus I don't think it will look bad just mounted forward off the asa? I looked at my gun after I posted that last night and was trying to figure out how to keep the drop, so that's my solution

Another mounting option, is to have the vertical ASA tapped for an outlet on the front and mounting your LPR there. You can then get your rail milled for the airline to sit inside the rail and run from the LPR into the grip. I have also seen ones where people mounted a T fitting on the air inlet to the valve and mounted the LPR parallel to the valve with an airline tucking into the frame from the passenger side throgh the panels.

Something like this^^. You would have to get a straight macro fitting for the front input and screw the LPR in the rear facing one. I would actually run a 90* fitting on the LPR line into the grip, but a straight one would work too.

So is microline just out of the game now days? I ordered some replacement line the other day but on Ans and I think it was paintballgear they only had macro and like some banjo macro fittings.... I've been out of the game a while now. Picked up a g4 from my brother, went a couple times but its been like 6-7 years up until like a month ago. Couldn't walk for a week after the first time. Can't play front like I did when I was 15 lol

I just prefer it, I only have a 1 1/2" piece between my drop and grip... probably impossible with macro. Plus I ran it with a hyperframe long ago with micro and a crappy pmi steelie, id like to continue running it if I can

I just prefer it, I only have a 1 1/2" piece between my drop and grip... probably impossible with macro. Plus I ran it with a hyperframe long ago with micro and a crappy pmi steelie, id like to continue running it if I can

Yeah, stick with the airsoldier stuff. Micro took a hit in the "bps wars". High pressure or low pressure, the fast markers needed macro to move enough air. With pumps or a slow enough marker, micro can be safer and smaller for the same performance.

Yeah I understand the macro/micro thing since everything now is electronic. I like those fittings but it sucks they sell em in 5 packs only... I need 5 total but not all of the same style. Ill probably find somewhere that has individuals and replace all of mine when I get my package from Ans. Haven't been on there in years and all their mag stuff is on blowout so I bought a bunch of spare parts for ten more years down the road haha... and a new barrel for $4

I had a stainless body and B2 covered with the realtree (iirc) 3M sheet. It was hard to spot in the brush. I still have the loader with the same covering for about five years now. It's faded a bit and starting to lift in places, but the loader is pristine underneath. That film does not like isopropyl alcohol.

Well, I ended up buying justus' intelliframe in the FS section. I'm going to Polish it up and put it on as is for now.

Also, just to throw a little wrench in the plans... I found one of my older elec. Markers in a bin in storage. Still works, i pulled the eyes from the board and it also still functioned. So now my questioning is about the switch that is used for intellifeed. Is it like a 1/4"x3/8" rectangle with a small metal flap that hits a switch? If so, I'm thinking I can go full electro with this frame, everything works and its just a simple board with 4 wires...

The only thing that I don't know is, on the current gun there is a set screw built in to the frame to stop the solenoid from just flying out the back, I dunno how id stop this in the frame...

Ill just take pics and be back, then get ideas... or just get everything and throw it in a box and send it to someone... be back with pics