Lasers work great for long-distance leveling

One type of laser level

Thread a screw into the bottom of the level as a pivot to make leveling easier (see next photo).

Shim the level

Adjust the torpedo with shims to level it. Mark the
wall at the point of light. Swivel the level on the pivot
and adjust it with shims again. Mark the wall at the
new location.

There are many types of laser levels that simplify long distance
leveling. The inexpensive version we're showing is a small
“torpedo” level with a built-in laser light. Turn on the
laser light and adjust the level until the bubble is centered
between the lines. The point of visible laser light will be
level with a reference mark on the body of the level. More
expensive laser levels have self-leveling mechanisms that
eliminate the need to adjust the bubble.

You can mount laser levels on a tripod, but if you don't
own a tripod, thread a 1/4-in. No. 20 machine screw into the
hole on the bottom of the level, letting it protrude about
1/4 in. to serve as a pivot point. Set the level onto the
pivot and use shims to center the bubble (photo
below). Mark the wall at the dot of light
and measure up or down to the
desired height. Then swivel
the laser on the pivot,
level it, mark the
wall again, and
measure up or
down the same
distance. Snap a
line between the points.

Build walls plumb with a plumb bob

Match ceiling and floor points

Drop the plumb bob from the ceiling and suspend it about
1/2 in. above your floor.

Align the plumb bob

Ask a helper to
steady the plumb
bob and tell you
which way to
move the string to
center it over the
point on the floor.

One of the quickest and easiest ways to plumb up or down
from any given point is with a plumb bob (sold at hardware stores and home centers). We're using the plumb bob to transfer
layout marks from the floor to the ceiling. Suspend the
plumb bob about 1/2 in. above the floor and center the
point exactly over the intersecting lines. Then mark the
location on the ceiling. The key to accuracy is to wait for
the bob to stop swinging. To speed things up, ask a helper
to steady the plumb bob while you adjust the position of
the string. Plumb
bobs have one
major drawback:
They don't work in
windy conditions.

Smartphone level

Quick readings

This is probably old news to you smartphone
veterans out there, but for you
newbies, here's the tip. Your phone can
work like a small level or plumb bob. You can download
a level app, or your phone may already
have a leveling app built into the operating
system. You wouldn't want to build an
addition with a phone level, but it can
come in handy for little leveling tasks
around the house.

Slope pipes with a shim

Pipe leveling trick

Tape a shim to one end of your level and use it to set the slope of
plumbing pipes.

The next time you need to put a consistent
slope on pipes, concrete formwork or landscaping
projects, try this hint. Tape a shim
to one end of your level to establish the
desired slope—say, 1/4 in. per foot for a
drain. Center the bubble and your project
will be perfectly sloped. Calculate the
thickness of the shim by multiplying the
length of your level in feet by the desired
slope (inches per foot). We wanted 1/4-in.
per foot slope on this drainpipe, so for our
2-ft. level we needed a 1/2-in.-thick shim.
If it's more convenient to set the level on
top of your project, tape the shim to the
bottom instead.

Check the accuracy of your level

Level one side

Shim the end of your level with playing cards
until the bubble is centered. (If the bubble is
already centered, you won't need any cards.)
We've marked one end of the level with blue
tape to distinguish it from the opposite end.

Flip the level around

Rotate the level 180 degrees (end for end)
and rest it on the same stack of cards. If
the bubble is in the center, your level is
accurate. If not, have it repaired or get a
new level.

Rest the level against a corner

The bubble on this level is lined up with the
right-hand line.

Put the opposite edge against the corner

Now the bubble on this
level is lined up with the
left-hand line, indicating a
bad plumb vial. Adjust the
level or mark this vial as
bad with a permanent
marker.

Who knows how it happens, but it seems like every level
eventually gets a little “off.” In some cases, this small inaccuracy won't
matter. But if you're doing finicky work like setting kitchen cabinets or
installing doors and windows, you'll want an accurate level. The photos
show how to check your level. Expensive levels may be worth repairing.
Call the manufacturer to find out if yours is repairable. When you're
buying a new level, use
the same technique to
check it for accuracy
before leaving the store
with it.

To check for accurate
plumb vials, rest your level
against a wall and note the
location of the bubble
between the lines.
Then rotate the level 180
degrees, edge to edge, keeping
the same end facing up. The bubble should
be in the same spot. If not,
your plumb vial is off. Levels
like the one shown can be
adjusted, but many levels
can't. In some cases, one set
of vials will be good, and you
can simply cross out the bad
set with a permanent marker
to avoid using it. Or toss a
bad level and buy a new one.

Block a straightedge for crooked walls

Spacer block tip

Plumb walls using a
straight board with
spacer blocks of
equal thickness
nailed to each end.

Close-up of spacer block

The two spacer blocks are set at the points that need leveling, spanning the curvy stud.

You could plumb a wall by simply
setting your level against the stud,
but it wouldn't give you an accurate
reading unless the stud was
perfectly straight and smooth. The
method shown spans irregularities
in the stud and allows you to align
the top and bottom plates exactly
plumb with each other. Make sure
the spacer blocks are the same
thickness and that the board they're
attached to is perfectly straight.
Check to make sure your setup is
accurate by flipping it end for end.
You should get the same reading on
the level. If not, the straightedge
may be crooked.

Level a row of pictures

Photo 1: Measure from the wire

Measure the distance from the
stretched wire to the top of the
picture frame.

Photo 2: Mark for the picture hanger

Measure down from the level line and mark
for the location of the picture-hanging hook.

Getting a row of pictures to line up
at the top can be tricky, especially if
the hanging wires are different
lengths. Here's a tip from a professional
picture hanger. Hook a tape
measure to the wire and pull it tight
(Photo 1). Measure to the top of the
picture frame. On the wall, measure
down from a level line and mark this
distance at the centerline of your
new picture location. Align the hook
of the picture hanger with the mark
and nail it to the wall (Photo 2).
Repeat this process for all of the
pictures, and their tops will be perfectly
aligned.

Poor man's laser level

Photo 1: Make a level mark

Align the top of the level with your
mark and center the bubble. Mark the
opposite end.

Photo 2: Snap a line

Line up a
chalk line with
the two marks
and snap a
line.

If you need to make a long, level line (or a plumb line) and don't own a laser,
try this method. Mark the desired height of your line on the
wall. Hold your level at the mark and adjust it until the bubble is
centered. Then make a mark at the opposite end of the level
(Photo 1). Extend the line by stretching a chalk line and aligning it
with both marks (Photo 2). If you're working indoors, use dust-off
marking chalk, which is easy to erase. Stretch the chalk line and
snap it to create a perfectly level line across the wall.

Pre-level door jambs

Photo 1: Check the opening

Lay a level across the opening and shim under one end until the bubble is
centered. Measure the thickness of the shims.

Photo 2: Trim the bottom of the jamb

Transfer the measurement to the appropriate jamb and draw a cutting line
with a square. Saw along the line to trim the jamb. Now when you set the door
in the opening, the top of the jamb will be level.

If your floors are going to be carpeted, you don't have to worry about a gap
under one of the doorjamb sides. In fact, most trim installers raise the doors so
they don't drag on the carpet. This is done by resting the jambs on 3/8-in.-thick shims,
or temporary scraps of trim. That raises the whole door so it completely clears the
carpet. But if the jambs have to fit tight to tile, wood or vinyl floors, you'll have to cut
them to fit an out-of-level floor. The two photos show how.

Get your first row of tile perfectly level

Attach a level board

Tubs and shower bases aren't always
level, so starting your first row of tile
against them could throw off your
whole job. Instead, make level marks
on the wall, line up the ends of a
straight board with the marks and
screw the board to the wall. Rest the
first row of tile on the board for a perfectly
level tile job. The distance from
the top of the shower or tub to the top
of the board should be less than the
width of a tile. That way you can
custom-cut the tiles to accommodate
an out-of-level tub or shower and keep
consistent grout lines.

Fix crooked switches and outlets

Plumb with a screwdriver

Here's a handy tip from one of our electrical consultants. The
screws that attach an outlet or a switch to the box go in a slot that
allows the device to be adjusted. But you don't always have to
remove the cover plate to fix crooked switches or outlets. Instead,
try pushing a flat-blade screwdriver against the cover plate. Use a
screwdriver with a sharp blade. A rounded-over blade will just slip
off. You may have to push from more than one corner to fix really
crooked devices.

Easy appliance leveling

Plumb with a magnetic level

Here's a two-part tip for leveling appliances.
First, use a magnetic level to free up both
hands. Most torpedo levels have a built-in magnet and
work great for appliance leveling. The second part of
the tip is to lift the front of the appliance with a pry bar
to take pressure off the leveling feet. It's much easier to
turn the feet when they're off the ground.

Extend your level

Plumb bob alternative

You could use a plumb bob
to transfer layout marks
from the floor to the ceiling,
but extending your level with
a straight board works sometimes works
faster, especially when it's windy. Just remember to
mark on the correct side of
the level.

Human transit

Trick for quick estimates

The elevation you're trying to measure won't usually be the exact
distance from your feet to the level, so you'll have to do some math. You might
be squatting, sitting down or standing. Whichever, figure out the distance from
your eye to the ground and that's the height to the point you're sighting. In this
case, we're checking the elevation to the top of the fountain to help us size the
pump.

This tip won't work for leveling house footings, but it's great for
approximating exterior grade changes as well as other long-distance
leveling that doesn't need to be exact, just close. Hold a level at eye
height and center the bubble. Sight along the top of the level to the point you
want to check. The distance from your feet to the level is the height of the point
you're looking at.