The Rentmeesters' Bali With Style: Where to Eat, Stay, and Shop

Two sisters—Coliena, a fashion photographer, and Marlien, founder of the style blog Le Catch—share their finds (and memories) from a few stolen days in Bali.

There was a time when my identical twin, Coliena, and I did everything together, and vacations were no exception. But over the years, marriage, children, and careers made our twin-bonding getaways less frequent. So when an invitation to a family wedding in Bali sprang up last summer and our calendars actually aligned, we were off and running.

Bali was in many ways our genesis: It’s where our Indonesian mother and Dutch photographer father met in the late ’60s. And though we were born and bred in New York City and currently reside in L.A., we returned to the island throughout our childhood, and as backpacking students and young adults as well. It’s a deeply mystical place, where legend—and our mother!—dictate no green swimsuits in the ocean, lest you stoke the ire of the sea goddess Ratu Kidul, and no standing in the shadow of a banyan tree, where spirits are said to lurk. Coliena had recently returned to Bali for work, but I hadn’t been in a decade. Things had changed, but all that we’ve long loved remains: awe-inducing temples, secluded beaches, magnificent sunsets, friendly locals. We had only a few precious days, so we limited our exploring to the area between Ubud, in the center of the island, and Uluwatu, on the southern coast, all while avoiding the shadows of banyan trees.

The bright and airy Villa Pantai at the Ketapang Estate in Tabanan, on Bali’s southwestern coast.

Where we stayed

￼We rented a modern villa at the waterfront Fairmont Sanur Beach, on the southeast side of the island, where we had our own pool, gorgeous bedrooms, and a cook’s kitchen. The hotel, which is off the town’s bustling main road, is peacefully away from the fray but within walking distance of shops and restaurants (8 Jalan Kusuma Sari; from $260). After I left, Coliena extended her trip and checked into the Ketapang Estate in Tabanan. Locals call it “Bali’s best-kept secret,” and for good reason: It’s not easy to find. Accessible by tiny roads that cut through rice paddies and cross rickety wooden bridges, the remote hotel, made up of eight villas, is surrounded by lush jungle and a private black sand beach (Banjar Klecung Kelod; from $570).

Where we ate

We had lunch almost daily at the busy Café Batu Jimbar in Sanur. This insider’s favorite serves Indonesian and Western food: You can have the most authentic and delicious mie goreng (stir-fried egg noodles with chicken and vegetables), a killer Caesar salad, and fresh juice (75 Jalan Danau Tamblingan). Finding Café Marzano had us driving around Ubud for 20 minutes, but the thin-crust pizza and serene rice field views were worth the search (Jalan Hanoman).La Lucciola, on the beach in Seminyak, was our favorite see-and-be-seen spot: The sunsets are electric, and the Italian food spectacular—particularly the linguine with sun-dried tomatoes, basil, and garlic and the fresh-baked bread, a treat in the land of rice (Jalan Petitenget).

I love how international Bali feels. It’s a mecca for surfers, yogis, eco-adventurists, and straight-up tourists from all over the world. Where else can you find a single menu with at least five different cuisines (all of them delicious), or a taxi driver who speaks Japanese with an Australian accent?

Where we swam

While Bali is famous for its radical surf breaks (especially in Uluwatu), we swam and snorkeled in the calmer, reef-filled waters at Finn’s Beach Club, in the town of Ungasan, which has all the trappings of a beachside spot on Mykonos—bar service, chaise longues, music—without the over-the-top vibe and insane crowds. The open-air funicular you take to get down to the beach is particularly cool (Jalan Pantai Selatan Gau).

What we wore

It’s essential that you be able to go from the beach to a restaurant or shop with minimal effort. Our go-to Bali look was a sun hat, sandals, and an easy dress or tunic that you could throw on over a swimsuit.