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Topic: GE washer, transmission fluid (Read 7160 times)

What weght or type of fluid is required. We don't have a leak but the poor thing is always being used (7 people's clothes), and we have destroyed 1 new one and 2 used ones, now we are on the third used transmission. Seems to be holding for now but I would like to maintain it for as long as possible. My wife likes to fill it right to the top and I've said this is a strain on the transmission with all that extra weight. Is that statement correct?

To answer your question, the transmission is filled with a 60-wt non-detergent oil.

To address the theory that servicing the transmission to avoid problem later is ludicrous. It is not the oil which fails, but the internal gears and bearings.

(No one burns out that many transmissions without some sort of abuse factor figured in. )Besides, damage to the clutch & drive block is more likely that outright transmission failure. Regardless of the number of persons using the machine, if it is not overloaded, this kind of damage would take years to occur.

I looked up the model number and had no luck.I do know those new GE washers did have a recall on them lawn mower transmissions.

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Howdy Repair-man, Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just wanted to check which transmission the 60w non-detergent oil is for. I could not find the OP's MLC275CW0 machine in a search to see what kind of transmission it has. I have a GE WPSE4200A0WW top loader washer with I believe, a WH38X10002 transmission. Do you know what oil this transmission takes? It all spilled out of mine through a bad top oil seal, while I took it out to replace the water logged bearing at the bottom of the transmission. Do you happen to know when I can find a replacement oil seal for the one where the shaft to agitate comes out of the transmission? Do you know if there is an oil seal at the bottom of the transmission? Thanks so much to you, or anyone else who can help me out!

I have seen lower viscosity oils used, but it runs fine on a synthetic (Mobil 1, etc) Go with at least a 40-wt variety. As longe as the tub seal is replaced (bearing, too), then this is the only entry point for water. Once water penetrates the seal, it displaces the oil inside the gearcase. Be sure to remove all contaminated oil even if you have to open the gearcase. Form-a-gasket in blue works when you reassemble the halves.

Howdy again Repair-man,Is the non-detergent you specified in your earlier post important? There doesn't seem to be any ND in the autoparts stores around me, and it is slimmer picking online as well.Also should it be motor oil or gear oil? I did a little reading up that the viscosity numbers of motor and gear oils don't line up. I can find some SAE 50 synthetic motor oils, SAE 60 motorcycle oil. The lowest viscosity gear oils I can find are 75w-90.Thanks for the advice on the blue RTV. I have some one hand, but will still try to avoid having to open the case! I hate to open up a box of gear when I don't have a diagram to fall back on, but I understand that water in there is no good. Thanks again!