Sunday, November 10, 2013

When I was growing up, the vegetables from the brassica family were typically served in cold-clime months with an "R" in them, not unlike the rules of oyster consumption. But instead of the shimmery and quivery delicate shellfish, we dined on sulfurous bruisers like cabbage, broccoli, and turnips. Cauliflower was also frequently on the menu, and always boiled before a heavy slathering of cheese sauce. Kids will eat anything drowning in cheese, and I was no exception.

These days, I like cheese no less, but enjoy enhancing, rather than hiding, star ingredients. While I can't admit that I prepare anything more robust a vegetable than cabbage as cole slaw during the warm weather, I do fire up the oven September through April, as one would throw another log in the hearth.

With its own sharp flavor, mustard is a great complement to the robust vegetables that are among the most healthy. Although ground mustards with vinegar and salt are a given, don't overlook the coin-gold oil nor tiny, dark-brown seeds found in Indian grocers. As chance would have it, mustard is also a member of the same plant family. It seems the brassica doesn't fall far from the branch.

Cut tough stem end and core from cauliflower, and discard. Break or cut the curds into smaller pieces (florets). Pour mustard oil into very large bowl. Add florets, mixing them thoroughly in the oil to cover them evenly.

Spread florets on a large baking sheet, letting excess oil drip back into bowl. Reserve the oil.

Place baking sheet in middle of oven. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn florets with tongs, and roast for another 20 minutes. Pierce fork through stems. They should yield easily to pressure without being mushy. If not, roast for another 5 minutes. Turn off oven and remove backing sheet.

In a large wok or frying pan, preferably with non-stick finish, heat the reserved oil with the mustard seeds over medium heat. Place splatter guard over wok or pan. Watch and listen careful until seeds start to burst and sputter. Add roasted florets and pan fry until browned and crusty, turning frequently with tongs. Avert your face from tempering seeds; their trajectory is as fast as wide as buckshot.

I cook and bake in that cute little galley kitchen up there. It's not as tidy as it used to be, and the walls are a deep tagine red now, but it's a cozy, homey space where you are always welcome to drop in. You can reach me at thewellseasonedcook AT yahoo DOT com. I'd be delighted to hear from you.