The closest bearing I could find was 20mm ID 42mm OD. But the problem is there isn’t enough meat in the BMW hub to machine out 2mm of material.

As I now have two Dakar’s and a spare wheel set I am trying to make swapping wheels painless and quick.

The solution after lots of head scratching – retain the OEM axle and adapt the DRZ forks.

The Dakar setup is basically a long shouldered bolt. The raised section near the head is 20mm (same size as the DRZ calliper fork) and reduces to 17mm on the shaft where the wheel sits and the threaded section is 16mm x x1.5.

I machined a “NUT” to fit the non calliper fork leg.

I made the nut size 24mm, same as the back axle so as to reduce the trail tools.

I have never liked the way the calliper side wheel bearing is exposed to the elements. The wheel spacer for that side was made so that it acts like a shield.

Another ADV member was asking a few questions and thought that I would post my reply in the off chance that anyone else was wondering the same

Hi DamianA question for you....How much effot did it take to get the stem out of the lowwer clamp of the BMW setup? Is it strictly an interference fit pulled up to a shoulder?I see in the picture of your DRZ stem it has a dimple - obviously for a locking grubscrew.I'm going to be designing and making set of clamps and a stem to fit the YZ forks to the Dakar. I want to make it a straight plug and play. The stem will be the correct length and the top clamp will hold the ignition. I also want to make it accept different handle bar sizes.Any advice/tips?Cheers

Interference fit for lower clamp - 0.3mm, pushed up to a shoulder. I only have a small 6t press and it pushed it out.

The OD of the steam as it passes through the lower clamp was 30.3mm and the clamp was 30.00mm

The interference fit for the DRZ lower bearing was 0.03 but as I used 6061 rather than steel I didn't want to have to hammer the bearing on and off marking the shaft every time, so I made it to size and the inner race can be just pushed on by hand. As this is a VERY slow speed bearing I don't have any fears of the race spinning on the shaft as you would with something like a wheel bearing.

The middle section is machined about 0.5mm under size so the bearing can be easily pushed to the lower position.

The upper bearing section was machined to 29.97 - it allows for easy fitting of the upper bearing.

The dimple you can see on the DRZ shaft (the other shaft is the alloy one but it ended up about 20mm shorter in the end) was for a grub screw. With the amount of pressure needed to push it out of the clamp - it isn't needed - and I see it as a stress riser in a critical point.

I see that some have only used one nut on the upper bearing - That doesn't should right to me - Firstly I want a lock nut, and since it is all out of 6061 rather than steel I wanted a thicker nut (even if it is in the form of two nuts).

When I am happy with the fit etc I am going to pull it all apart and measure it up - there were a few changes along the way so it doesn't match my original drawings (and lots of extra setup work as I had to run the threads down further in the lathe, twice!!!!)

So if you can wait, I will but the drawings up on ADV - can't promise when - might have to go away for work in the New Year.

Machined an ignition lock housing from a billet of 6061 – there are a few more edges to chamfer and a few more grams to trim but basically finished.

The BRP/ Scotts upper clamp is a work of art, my machining isn’t up to the same standard but it is all done with a manual lathe and mill so those smooth blended radiuses are a little harder to match.

I used the front “Tank” mounts for the damper post. I drilled and taped the bolts to 6mm for a little bit more strength, again used a 6061 billet and machined a post.The tank panel and the relay box where drilled to 12.5mm and 12mm S/S inserts pressed into the base of the new post. Again I need to do a little more trimming but overall I am very happy.

For anyone else that may be doing this, the post is inclined back at 10 deg.

Very nice drawings, love your work! - would love a copy of those if you are willing to share, and perhaps those of the chassis as well?

The ally swingarm is going to happen - comes down to time. Still looking for a supply of material, the size and grade that I want is hard to get. Do you have a better supplier? I am using Action Aluminium here in Brisbane, but as it isn’t a grade/ size usually stock, I would have to buy a 8m length.Damian

Very nice drawings, love your work! - would love a copy of those if you are willing to share, and perhaps those of the chassis as well?

The ally swingarm is going to happen - comes down to time. Still looking for a supply of material, the size and grade that I want is hard to get. Do you have a better supplier? I am using Action Aluminium here in Brisbane, but as it isn’t a grade/ size usually stock, I would have to buy a 8m length.Damian

pm your email address

Action Ally is probably your best bet.
Your could try Bohler as well. They only keep special grades of ally. So you might get lucky.
The closest supplier to me is Alsum up here on the Sunny Coast.
What size and grade are you looking for?