Description

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on newenglandbouldering.com.

Getting There

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering.

A very fun dyno using some uncharacteristic rock for lincoln woods. Start low on underclings in the quartzite on the right side of the cave. Move up mostly using crimps in the vertical crack and join the Pond Cave Traverse crack at its midway point. Grab a jug up and left and then launch yourself up and right to a decent hold over the lip that is both far away and hard to see (scope out ahead). Top out from there. This is a fun problem to try even if V7 is outside of your range....[more]Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that...

hey guys, i was wondering as i'm new to the lincoln woods area what this boulder problem is, thanks! there was chalk marks so i decided to give it a try. it's on the back side of the other boulder next to the Peace Dove