Description

So named because of the bear that bore witness the first ascent. Climb a rounded arete (bolt) past a bulge and onto a slopey ledge. Use a long sling to clip the second bolt, and step right along the ledge. Climb up to the huge ledge below the roof. Pull the roof on the right, at the left facing corner. Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging rock to the top. Bolted anchor. A variation continues straight up the arete to the big ledge.

Location

About 30' right of Azucar, past a mossy short cliff. Start below a grey bolt on the large rounded arete at the left edge of the main wall. There is wide broken crack about 4' left of the arete.

Protection

Getting to the first slopey ledge was the crux for me. Felt solid 5.10 if you use the arete only. Though it felt reasonable to me, to use the other side of the wide crack and chimney up to the ledge. This lowers the difficulty to somewhere around 5.8, but also involves high ground fall potential. The upper roof section felt more like 5.9 to me. My favourite climb of the day since I wasn't able to make it past the thin face moves on Azucar and Crotalid was soaking

The first bolt was placed with the intention of climbing the arÍte. At one point you do go slightly left, but stay out of the chimney to the left. It's dirty, and not much fun, but the arÍte is really fun and takes some figuring. The second bolt is really camouflaged; I even have to look hard to see it, but it's there. You can clip it very comfortably from standing on the ledge, then you're meant to step right along the ledge and continue up directly above the direct start.

Challenging, bouldery move up and over the arete followed by nice slab to main ledge. The roof section has great exposure and some positive holds right where you really start to want them. Good stance at the anchors and well placed bolts.