Well for a update on searching for diff. tv i went to look at the Elite and it def is awesome but when i got home i started unplugging all my h.t. gear(oppo,pioneer elite avr) and i heard a small buzz coming from my subwoofer. I disconnected it and now all i hear is a faint buzz from the 60e7000 so i am thinking i may stick with it after all. I am gonna order another sub and i can deal with the small buzz from the tv now. I put the tv sound volume at 8 and can not hear the tv buzz inless i mute the tv,does this sound ok or should it not be heard at all?

Well for a update on searching for diff. tv i went to look at the Elite and it def is awesome but when i got home i started unplugging all my h.t. gear(oppo,pioneer elite avr) and i heard a small buzz coming from my subwoofer. I disconnected it and now all i hear is a faint buzz from the 60e7000 so i am thinking i may stick with it after all. I am gonna order another sub and i can deal with the small buzz from the tv now. I put the tv sound volume at 8 and can not hear the tv buzz inless i mute the tv,does this sound ok or should it not be heard at all?

Many audio receivers have an electrical outlet on the back which is a switching power supply. If you plug your subwoofer into it, the sub will power on/off when you power your avr.

Maybe but I've never heard of one. This should be a good place to find out.

You might contact Samsung to find out if any of their other models use a stand that will also fit yours. If so you could buy one as a replacement part.

Actually, if you read the thread you will see that I use my old D series stand on my E series. My E was a replacement set, so I kept the D stand because the chicken foot did not fit my setup. The trick is that the plastic bracket (called a guide) that screws into the back of the TV and into the top of the stand of the E series also fits perfectly into the top of the D series stand. The holes line up flawlessly and the screws are identical. DO NOT ASK SAMSUNG BECAUSE THEY WILL DENY THAT THE STANDS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE, CITING IT TO BE LIABILITY, lol. BS, I beg to differ. Here is a link where you can order a brand new D series stand directly from Samsung (the D series guide is not included nor will you need it):

However, it seems that most D stand models are out of stock and I do not see them restocking them anytime soon. What model & size do you have, Dino520?

*I would also assume that the E550 stand would work too. It looks the same as the D series stand, however I have no way to check. Just be sure to get the proper size as one works only for the 51 inch, and the other is for the two larger sizes (59 & 64 for 2011/ 60 & 64 for 2012).

Maybe but I've never heard of one. This should be a good place to find out.

You might contact Samsung to find out if any of their other models use a stand that will also fit yours. If so you could buy one as a replacement part.

Actually, if you read the thread you will see that I use my old D series stand on my E series.

Thanks for the solid information. That's what AVS is all about.

Maybe someone in the owner's thread for the D models has a stand that they will sell.

It seems like some try to read every post in any thread that they are active in, but I'm just here looking for owner's who have reported having their displays professionally calibrated. That's what the link in the signature area of my posts is about.

I stand corrected, you can still get out of stock items afterall. Samsungsparts.com will order the part once you place your order. The part will be shipped to them directly from Samsung within 3 to 5 business days, and then they will send it out to you. They do it this way because they no longer stock that item in the Samsungparts.com warehouse. You can also try calling 1-800-SAMSUNG to see if you can order the part direct for cheaper. YOU ARE WELCOME

I would never use that type of feature. It will kill most of the extra detail that Blu-ray brings you.

O wow i didnt know that,thanks for the help and i will turn it off.

Sitting too far away from your screen will also cause a loss of detail. The difference is that motion control will also make faces look like everyone is using heavy makeup much like what you might see if you watched afternoon Soaps.

Sitting too far away from your screen will also cause a loss of detail. The difference is that motion control will also make faces look like everyone is using heavy makeup much like what you might see if you watched afternoon Soaps.

Actually, I disagree. This is not a motion smoother and there are no interpolated frames. CS should be on. It just repeats each frame 4 times (96hz /4:4 pulldown) to remove flicker caused by 24 fps and motion jerking caused by 3:2 pulldown conversion @ 60hz. It is the only way to watch movies in their native form (because 96hz is a multiple of 24). When CS is off your 24p movies will be coverted to 60hz by adding 3:2 pulldown (even though the screen says 24hz with CS off; that is what the incoming signal is and not what you see on the screen). Coverting to 3:2 pulldown @ 60hz because you have CS off is not native and is altering the original blu-ray source. Samsung could have easily designed CS to operate @ 24hz (1:1 pulldown) instead, but at that slow of a refresh rate the picture would flicker.

People often get CS confused with motion smoother/dejudder of LCD due to "smooth" being in the title.

Is dynamic mode the best Picture setting for Gaming? I have a PN51E8000??

"Gaming mode" found under the System Settings submenu will work on every input, even component. It will disable most of the advanced processing features to reduce the inherent Display Lag in a plasma TV (or any other modern HDTV for that matter).

In addition Samsung provides a "PC mode" that further decreases the display lag on their plasma TV's. However the general consensus is that this mode only works on the PC/DVI HDMI input, which on your TV should be HDMI 1. If you wish to use this mode make sure you are connected to HDMI 1, press the Device Input button on the remote, highlight HDMI 1 and then press the Tools button. From there select Rename (or Edit) and then select PC from the available list.

Do note that using HDMI 1 means you lose the Audio Return Channel functionality that is included with HDMI 2. Personally I get around this by using a $20 HDMI splitter from Monoprice so I can game on HDMI 1 and do everything else on HDMI 2.

Regardless, as a recent E7000 series owner, I would highly recommend you turn down the Cell light and Contrast settings when gaming until the TV has a good 300 hours on it to minimize the potential of Image Retention. Even with limiting my gaming sessions to 2 or 3 hours at a time with the TV set to Game Mode and Standard Picture settings I experienced very noticeable IR on the lower right hand corner of the display where Black Ops 2 shows a constant white on black graphic during gameplay. I was able to effectively remove this IR prior to returning the TV, but it took days of alternate programming. If you can game happily with the Cell light at 18 (or 1 or 2 less) and Contrast down around 60 until the plasma cells age I think that is a prudent preventative measure to take.

I use the Plex app all the time. I am surprised nobody mentioned it. By far the best app out there! It is far superior to the built in media player. It can fix aspect ratios, including in 3d. Not only does it stream your media wirelessly from cpu to tv, but it downloads the cover art and movie/show info into its media library. Slick, indeed.

Did you ever find out if there was a work around to get cinema smooth enabled for Plex?