Nearby Naples Offers List Of Delights

April 13, 1986|By Robert Tolf, Staff writer

Among the most delightful close-in Good Life getaways is Naples, that Gulf Coast spread of comfortable affluence named for another beautiful city on a bay. Easily reached via Alligator Alley, it`s a perfect day-trip or a weekend escape, one that can be filled with shopping, snacking, strolling and some serious eating as well.

En route, detour to Marco Island for a quick survey of the incredible development in that once sleepy settlement, and then take a look at a slice of old-timey Florida in the Isles of Capri, site of two very-easy-to-recommend restaurants for dinner only.

One is starkly simple in setting, the other rather more elaborate: Jim and Eydie`s at 321 Capri Blvd., specialists in fresh frog legs, stone crab, Florida lobster, freshly breaded and fried fish; and the Blue Heron Inn at 387 Capri Blvd. where reservations are necessary and the food close to platonic.

In town, there`s a pair of seafood feeders, one vintage Florida the way it used to be -- Kelley`s Fish House at the Gordon River Bridge (they have their own fishing fleet) -- and the other is Merriman`s Wharf at Tin City in the Old Marine Market Place, 1200 Fifth Ave. South, a good place for the family.

Further up Fifth is one of my favorite hideaways in the South, the Piccadilly Pub with its splendid bar, its dark, woodsy atmosphere, its outstanding wine room.

There`s more nostalgia at one of my favorite restaurants in the South, St. George and the Dragon at 936 Fifth Ave. Their track record of consistency is remarkable, their soups are superior, especially the conch chowder, and no one in South Florida does better coconut-battered shrimp. But the prime rib is also reliable and their up-front bar, with all its authentic nautical memorabilia, is a wonderful retreat from reality.

For more prime rib, and steaks, there`s the Pewter Mug on the North Trail outside of town and en route, Farino`s at 4000 North Tamiami Trail, where the accents are strictly Italian.

About halfway between the Pewter Mug and Farino`s, at 8920 North Tamiami Trail, is Villa Pescatore with chef Greg Fatigati in command, and that means Northern Italian concentration, and a fine wine list.

In town, there`s another outstanding chef who is making his reputation at the Fifth Avenue Auberge. That`s where Felix Roux holds forth, in a small storefront operation across from the Piccadilly Pub and the best boulangerie/ charcuterie in the Southwest. It`s an overstocked deli, efficiently run by a German clan that bakes beautiful breads and serves sensational cheeses, sausages and smoked fish.

Hild`s Tea Room at 336 13th Avenue South is an 11-to-3 lunchtime spot of simple setting, and not far distant is the Swan Court Cage with its shaded courtyard so ideal for resting with an iced tea, a sandwich or some ice cream after doing all that shopping.

Shopping resides in the Third Street South section officially known as Olde Naples. Among my favorite olde shoppes is one known as The Good Life. It`s a happily run gourmet cookware place with an ebullient owner who loves to take her boat to Fort Lauderdale and see the sights. She and her husband find it essential to escape precisely what I go to Naples to find, a lot of quiet, a much slower pace.

Also in Olde Naples is a pair of restaurants that continue to improve, exceeding even their own high standards: The Chef`s Garden and its upstairs bistro of a cafe known as Truffles, expanded and refurbished this past year.

There`s a tempting array of cakes and pastries on display along with house- made pates and terrines and a general cozy air of informality. On the ground floor with a wine room in the back and a splendid porch alongside, there`s a spacious bar and lounge, and super comfortable seating in the main dining room.

Chef-owner Tony Ridgway and partner Bierne Brown are a dynamite team, and their ever-changing menu has some real zingers: poached salmon with bay scallops in a watercress sauce, grilled snapper on braised fennel with sauce choron, and Dover sole with almonds, bananas and rum beurre blanc.