If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

My incarnation of this suspension has an equilateral triangle, which measures 5" on each side. That connects to my suspension with a Dutch whoopie hook. I want to keep the ability to pack my suspension separately and also switch it among my hammocks.

I could run a ridgeline from whoopie hook to whoopie hook, but it would have to be another separate piece to keep up with and I would have to attach it each time I set up.

An alternative would be to have a fork in the ridgeline, located a few inches from each end, and permanently tie each end of the fork to the ends of the mini spreader bar.

I'm leaning toward the latter alternative. What are some other ridgeline ideas?

I'm leaning toward the latter alternative. What are some other ridgeline ideas?

At one point in my testing IIRC I had a loop larks headed onto the spreader bar, or maybe just a piece of zing-it with an eye in one end that I'd larks head onto the mini-bar. Anyway, with my RL ( a big whoopie) I'd larks head that to one end and do the MSH/toggle dance on the other to that loop/string. Fairly easy to R&R, but the toggle is another thing to loose?

Deep peace of the running wave to you.
Deep peace of the flowing air to you.
Deep peace of the quiet earth to you.
Deep peace of the shining stars to you.
Deep peace without end to you.
adapted from - ancient gaelic runes

Like Knotty, I've been away for a while too... and have fought through this whole thread this evening... and I find myself wondering "Can this really make a Switchback better?" Really? Guess there is something else to try.
.

I had the same thought on the Switchback. But I found out to my surprise that the mini-spreader ends up giving me a little more shoulder room on the right side. The bar pushes the fabric out just enough to open the hammock for a tad more space.
However, the negative in this is how to attach the spreader bar to make it easy for setup and take down. I would prefer to take it off for storage of the hammock in my skins, but I found out that the bar has to be "anchored" to keep it from sliding up and down the attachment lines. Sort of defeats the "ease" of setup to some extent. Might have to change the size of the skins to accomodate the extra space needed for leaving it permanently attached.

However, the negative in this is how to attach the spreader bar to make it easy for setup and take down. I would prefer to take it off for storage of the hammock in my skins, but I found out that the bar has to be "anchored" to keep it from sliding up and down the attachment lines. Sort of defeats the "ease" of setup to some extent. Might have to change the size of the skins to accomodate the extra space needed for leaving it permanently attached.

I have taken to rolling up my hammock from one end when taking it down. I leave the bar on it. I attached it per Newhanger's method. I have found that the hammock packs away small and re-deploys nicely. But the main advantage, like skins, is that I can take the hammock down in strong winds (I learned this in a tropical storm).

Another problem is stabilizing the Dynaglide:whoopie interface. The DG is so slick, the larksheads shift under load, allowing the hammock to bunch up on one end. I didn't experience this with Amsteel.

I used dynaglide for the spreader bar triangle and attached it to my dynaglide UCR's with a Dutch whoopie hook that is part of my UCR. At first I simply looped it over the hook but it immediately slid to one side. So, I did a larkhead onto the whoopie hook and it held perfectly fine, even with my wife and I jumping in and out of the hammock. The whoopie hook was just large enough to allow this with the thinner dynaglide.