The left hand rubber boot on the steering rack is cactus and needs replacement for a roadworthy.

Anyone done this job - and what is an estimate of time and difficulty? I am hoping to do this at home without access to any specialised tooling so any advice on 'pitfalls' or things to look out for would be appreciated.

The workshop manual shows an inner tie-rod socket as well as the outside tie rod end - can the boot be replaced by only disconnecting the inner socket or is it best to take off the outer tie-rod end as well? Also anyone know of a suitable place to source the boot? I was just going to try Supa-Cheap, Auto-Barn or Repco unless someone has an opinion on this!

when you get the steering boot make sure its for a power steering rack as from memory (just check the existing one to confirm) the boot has a little breather nipple that runs a hose between the two boots.

as for the job, its easier to only remove the tie rod end to replace the boot. I just count the number of turns it take to get it off to keep alignment right when it goes back on.

(the ball joint need drill of pin and special tools to come apart, as it has to hold together under cornering forces)(you would only remove the ball joint with a full steering rack overhaul)

once the tie rod end and locking nut are off its just a matter of sliding the old boot off and sliding the new boot on.

a ball joint removal tool is a good idea to get the tie rod end out of the front knuckle like this oneother than that a full nut on the end of the thread with a hammer will do the job. (not the special slotted nut that holds the split pin.)

righty-o. thanks for the info. When I was looking at the workshop manual (haven't bothered getting under the car today... (Sunday arvo and all....) so I thought that maybe the inside rod end came off.

I have no intention of removing the rack so will avoid needing to drill out any pins! I have a ball-joint splitter (a wedged fork thing-ma-jig that has a hammer strike on the back of it) so popping the tie rod end out wont be an issue. I will have a look later and will try and get a new boot this week. Sounds like a Monday evening job maybe....

As for the alignment, I was going to use a vernier caliper to measure the distance from a known point, so with that and counting the number of turns to remove the rod end should do the job. Once the car gets its roadworthy (probably Jan or Feb next year) I will get a full alignment done anyway, so I am not too fussed if the alignment is a little bit off at this stage.

I am getting all the mechanical stuff sorted, still have a small rust infestation to sort out. I am not so good at body-work, but nothing like necessity to push it along!