If you're going for the ability of 282A, I hope you have seriously considered how you're going to wire the outputs. I have no idea of the gauge wire you're showing for the individual outputs, but for 47A, you probably want 10 gauge wire or thereabouts.

For the "ganged" outputs, >250A, that wiring needs to be huge, if you plan to actually draw current like that. My welder "only" puts out 140A, and that will melt steel (used differently, of course ).

But don't underestimate what you're trying to do. Something will melt, burn, etc, if you draw current like that continuously with anything other than tremendously thick wires, and proper planning. This kind of current has the serious potential to be a fire hazard.

Could you use multiple, separate supplies, each closer to the smaller loads that they're powering? 47A is a lot easier (and safer) to transmit than 282A. And, like jocanon said, 6 of these at full-bore is 3500W, >30A at 110V; you won't be able to max them out on a single conventional (15-20A) 110V wiring circuit.

This may be a useful reference. For short-distance wiring ("chassis wiring"), 0 gauge wire will carry 245A. That is huge wire

hi , thanks everybody for what i've learnt here ,
here is my set up
i have 8 ps (8xhp dps600pb), i have 24voltized 2 of them , everything seems ok .

i want the six others to create a very strong 282A 12V current ,
i'm not a RC guy , in fact i'm building some 12V mixer , for lightshows (many LEDS and 12V stuff) , and i need a strong and heavy 12V generator .
dps600pb seems to be , by far , the best choice , for me .

# 4 , 6 , 8 and and 10 are shortpined , on each separate psu .
# 11 , on every psu , are pined together , for current share .
# 3 and 9 have also been taken , but there's no 1k pot .

but i've never read that it was possible , for 6 psu ,
maybe it's not .
i have read about 2 of them sharing the current 50/50 .

anybody knows if it is possible for 6 ps ?
even 3 or 4 ?

I have tested it 6 psu in parallel with pin 11 connected ,
it was working , as it always does (when not paralleled and 11 connected ).
i mean the fans are are OK , and i get 12,5 V from the outputs .
general behavior is the same .
but i didn' t test with a heavy load .
i can't , for the moment .

waw
thanks very much for reponsiveness ,
i totally understand your reactions .
and i know that yellow/green cables are not nice to see as "- pinout" ...
first of all , you all are right , and i don't want to draw 282A constantly ,
not at all , i should have precised .
i want the ps to be VERY confortable , i don't want to exceed 200A , at extremely
rare , and short peaks .
of course , all the cabling has to be properly sized .
95% of time i won't draw more than 50A .
sometimes not more than 150A.
i just want to be able to do it (it's really necessary)
i even have an internal silent "ATX PS" alternative , for less than 50A needs ,that will let me use only the mixer and its internal ps ,
not the separate heavy case with dpsS600pb inside .

i'm only using professional cables like Titanex (used in theatres for light)
i know i have to care a lot for the diameter of these cables .
but as i am in "small load" tests , i 'm using my usual cables kit (strong enough).

here is the mixer i'm building , nearly finished .
the case is an old heavy duty japanese audio amplificator , "Sansui" , emptied and modified a little .
i'm using the 24 RCA connectors at the back , as outputs .
they are not cheap connectors at all , and are very well isolated , all of them.

it features 24 channels of dimmable outputs (48V max , 14A max per channel) .
i don't trust this capability continuously for all channels at a time , in this building .

i have to feed the channels by pairs , so 12V DC inputs 28A max .
i have given each output a 5A fuse(see on the photo) , on the "+ outputs" .
it will be possible to grow this value a little ( 10A max i think) ,
ensuring that the PCB's on the photo won't heat too much .

i want to use Harting connectors to bring the current from the DPS600PB to the mixer ,
i have some 12 or 16 pins ones (used in 220V theatre lightings)
i'm thinking of using a strong Titanex(or like) multipair , using one cable for each DPS600PB , then make the paralleling inside my mixer .
instead of paralleling near the dps600pb , and need a very big cable ,
and then be able to choose wether i'll be using internal or external voltage supplies , with some kind of heavy jumpers .
i'm still collecting switches, amperemetres , relays ... , for thisnext step .

this is not supposed to be used in houses when loading more than 150A .
but in theatres , they have the current i need.
i could also use multiple plugs to feed the PS in pairs ,
and so being able to dispatch current needs on different providers (one on the oven , one in the garage , ....)

does this still sound difficult and dangerous ?
i really appreciate a lot your answers , particularly because it is not RC related ,
thanks again .

if i understand well ,
nearly nobody here has tempted to link more than 2 ps like these ,
because it's too dangerous .
don't you , for examples in RC clubs , have Huuuuge chargers , for everybody ,
so that you don't need to bring your personal chargers ?
maybe my project looks like , more or less , something like that ....

any remark , suggestion , is highly appreciated ,
and don't hesitate , if you think it's all stupid .
i could use these supplies , separated , feeding pairs by pairs , with no paralleling .
it's just that i would'nt be able to switch internal/external supplies , as easily ....
and maybe some supplies would have to work more than others ,
i like the "current share" concept a lot , for my project .
but i stiil don't know if more than 2 ps on the "current share" pin is possible .

how would you measure the different loads on different ps ,
with a total load of , let's say , 300 watts ?

I just my 2 supplies today. However I realized I only need one to pull 40A from my PL6 when charging 2s (which is all I'm using for now). Maybe it would be better for run two in series so the PS runs cooler though.

Soldering the pins is annoying though. I ready people use servo plugs instead. Are these the right plugs?

Edit- I should clarify that I used several JST connectors. I didn't try to bridge diagonal pins with the JSTs. I used a pair of JST connectors to do that. If you can get a bunch of servo plugs cheap, you could use 4 of them, and have wires coming off all of the pins, to allow use of any pin.

yhchoong; yes, 1-2-3-4-5 of the ribbon cable tied to DC ground will power it up with minimum fan speed.

I got two power supplies the other day. I set both of them up before any modifications were done and tested them. I ran them for half hour each, and actually charged some batteries.

Today I modified one, the floating ground supply. I powered it up to test, and it came on, the fan was much quieter, sounded like it was laboring some, and I had 12.5 v out, no load... for about 30 seconds. Then it shut down and will not start up again. The input fuse is good, but there is no green LED, no nothing.

Perhaps you dropped something like a ball of solder or a frayed wire strand or... inside and it is shorting out on the PCB?
I had that happen to me on one. Take apart and blow high pressurd air throughout and try again.
Rick

hi , thanks everybody for what i've learnt here ,
here is my set up
i have 8 ps (8xhp dps600pb), i have 24voltized 2 of them , everything seems ok .

i want the six others to create a very strong 282A 12V current ,
i'm not a RC guy , in fact i'm building some 12V mixer , for lightshows (many LEDS and 12V stuff) , and i need a strong and heavy 12V generator .
dps600pb seems to be , by far , the best choice , for me .

# 4 , 6 , 8 and and 10 are shortpined , on each separate psu .
# 11 , on every psu , are pined together , for current share .
# 3 and 9 have also been taken , but there's no 1k pot .

but i've never read that it was possible , for 6 psu ,
maybe it's not .
i have read about 2 of them sharing the current 50/50 .

anybody knows if it is possible for 6 ps ?
even 3 or 4 ?

I have tested it 6 psu in parallel with pin 11 connected ,
it was working , as it always does (when not paralleled and 11 connected ).
i mean the fans are are OK , and i get 12,5 V from the outputs .
general behavior is the same .
but i didn' t test with a heavy load .
i can't , for the moment .

somebody could tell me if i'm not running any risk ?

thanks everybody
matthieu

I don't 'think' there'll be any issues. I'm assuming the 6-unit set is grounded for all 6 units, and CSP shorted together. You should find that load balancing among the 6 would be very good. Let me know how it goes when you load it up

hi rchelijc,
thanks for your answer ,
the big power supply is nearly finished , i have built strong connectors ,
with huge cables , only professional stuff ,
in a solid case , with "full options" on switches , for each of the 6 psu (fan speed and 13,5V) .
the only thing i haven't implemented , finally , is the "share current" .
i thought this would be useful to keep them silent ,in some cases ,
but i then said to myself that another option could be switches on the AC for each psu , that would enable me to stop the ones i don't need .
so i did this (with 10amps switches) , on each .
but if i need all my 24 channels running 1 lamp each ... (and i want to control everything on knobs , not being forced to open the boxes ...)

i had abandonned the idea of share current because i had already spent soooo much time on this ...
but what is 3 more hours compared to the dozens already spent ?
thanks for your answer , next week i'll do it , definitely , using relays and switches again
it's not yet finished , i'm now working on something else (video on flip-dot signs) ,
i'll post pictures when it's done , i promess !!!!
matthieu

hi rchelijc,
thanks for your answer ,
the big power supply is nearly finished , i have built strong connectors ,
with huge cables , only professional stuff ,
in a solid case , with "full options" on switches , for each of the 6 psu (fan speed and 13,5V) .
the only thing i haven't implemented , finally , is the "share current" .
i thought this would be useful to keep them silent ,in some cases ,
but i then said to myself that another option could be switches on the AC for each psu , that would enable me to stop the ones i don't need .
so i did this (with 10amps switches) , on each .
but if i need all my 24 channels running 1 lamp each ... (and i want to control everything on knobs , not being forced to open the boxes ...)

i had abandonned the idea of share current because i had already spent soooo much time on this ...
but what is 3 more hours compared to the dozens already spent ?
thanks for your answer , next week i'll do it , definitely , using relays and switches again
it's not yet finished , i'm now working on something else (video on flip-dot signs) ,
i'll post pictures when it's done , i promess !!!!
matthieu

Matt it is VERY important to complete current share if you are paralleling these supplies. They work very differently to what you might imagine, and WILL blow one or more PSU's for your use.