Monday is the day

The installers put in the chimney...I will be building the hearth this weekend. It will consist of 3/16 plywood, 1/2 " durock nexgen and 1/4 ceramic tile on the floor and 1/2" durock nexgen and 1" rock tiles with a 1" air gap on the walls now according to the NAFP 211 that should reduce the clearance in back of the stove to 12" my stove came with a heat shield that allows 17 inches to a COMBUSTIBLE wall so with the wall protection and the heat shield I should be fine with that clearance and per my manual the stove requires a 3/8" protection on the floor so I should be be good to go .(..I am using stacked durock for the spacers on the wall)

I'm no expert on this but I did a little homework when I was considering an F3 and I'm not sure your hearth plan meets the specs required. The Jotul manual (page 10) says you need an R value of 1.1. A half inch of Durock is .39 and a quarter inch tile only .020. These numbers are from http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/horvalue.htm

Maybe the newer F3's are different but my manual says "during laboratory testing it was that the floor protector should be one layer of 3/8 non combustible millboard or equivalent. You may decorate the millboard with a variety of ceramic tiles or bricks. All joints should be filled using only non combustible materials" page 5 in my 3tdic manual.

Remember to leave a gap at the bottom and top of the wall shield to allow convective ventilation behind it. And yes, the clearance measurement is to the nearest combustible. In this case it would be the wall behind the wall shield. Like I said before, I would prefer 3/4" plywood and I would probably go 2 layers of durock just in case this stove doesn't work out well. That might save a possible rebuild.

PE Alderlea T6 - the gentle giant, Jotul 602“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it.” - Mark Twain -
"A poor worker always blames his tools." - Dad

Remember to leave a gap at the bottom and top of the wall shield to allow convective ventilation behind it. And yes, the clearance measurement is to the nearest combustible. In this case it would be the wall behind the wall shield. Like I said before, I would prefer 3/4" plywood and I would probably go 2 layers of durock just in case this stove doesn't work out well. That might save a possible rebuild.

Click to expand...

From the wall behind the wall shield? I was calculating 12 inches from the shield....that could save some space

PE Alderlea T6 - the gentle giant, Jotul 602“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it.” - Mark Twain -
"A poor worker always blames his tools." - Dad

Maybe the newer F3's are different but my manual says "during laboratory testing it was that the floor protector should be one layer of 3/8 non combustible millboard or equivalent. You may decorate the millboard with a variety of ceramic tiles or bricks. All joints should be filled using only non combustible materials" page 5 in my 3tdic manual.

I wish it was, but not enough money for the new F3 ...and they don't make it in ivory anymore and the wife likes ivory.....says out goes with the "decor"..... So next stove has to be ivory too if we ever change this one out