Was working on the jeep all afternoon today then left doors open for additional couple hours to air out paint smell.

Go to start her up and won't crank over only clicking. Jump start and leave it running for 10 min then pull away and stalls. Started up again few minutes later without a jump but stalls when u I let off gas.

From what I've read seems likely it's alternator. Going to get battery and alternator tested tomorrow. I'd be happier if it was just battery obviously, not sure if it was ever replaced (3rd owner). Since I've bought it, surface rust and corrosion on terminals has bothered me so if it is those will be replaced too.

For 1996+ Jeeps, the OBD-II engine computer (ECU/PCM) re-boots, and the idle settings are deleted, when you: (1) let the battery run down by leaving the lights or radio on, (2) disconnect the battery for an extended period of time, (3) when the battery goes bad and needs replacing, (4) when the alternator in not properly charging the battery, (5) or when poor battery connections result in a voltage drop at the PCM, or poor battery charging.

Your symptoms are: (1) having difficulties starting the engine without depressing the gas pedal, and (2) the engine will have a low idle and probably stall unless you keep your foot on the gas pedal. The ECU will relearn the idle settings after a short period of driving and the engine will start and idle normally.

Loose, corroded, or damaged battery cables or ground wires may also cause or contribute to the problem. Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace them as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body.

If the symptoms reoccur, you need to have your battery and/or the alternator load tested at a repair shop or auto parts store. This is usually a free service they offer to bring in potential customers. Even with low battery voltage, the engine will start, but the ECU can re-boot multiple times and a new battery may be required.

Cleaning the Idle Air Controller (IAC), regular tune-ups, and using fuel injector cleaner should be part of your routine preventative maintenance.

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Either the battery is failing or the charging system isn't charging the battery properly.

Both of the above can easily be tested. Start with a simple LOAD TEST of your battery. Voltage test in and by itself is absolutely inconclusive. Any parts store will test your battery for you for free.

I'd say let the car parts place put your battery on their charger over night and then put it back in, and I bet you'll be fine.

Have it on the battery tender now since last night at my parents place. Will be there this afternoon to see what the deal is. Pep boys is a few miles away so planning on bringing it there to test and at minimum replace connectors/check all grounding.

What makes me lean toward alternator is I saw no warnings the battery was on its way and stalling after jump.

FYI I have been putting a lot of miles on the beast for work, appox 800 last week alone (mostly highway).

New battery from pep boys (nearest to my parents house) and she's back on the road. Chose the Bosch for the 3 year warranty and had them swap out new connectors too. $175 total and going to send in for a $20 rebate, little high cause of the labor for the terminals. Starter and alternator test after came back fine so relieved about that.

Only thing I'm not happy about is this b.s. "shop fee" they charge of $12...whatever.