2001 Chateau Souverain, Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley, California, $12. This is delicious California Sauvignon Blanc that would be stunning with a tad more acidity. The nose and palate display a host of cut grass, grapefruit, and melon notes, with just a suggestion of oak spice. Good value. 89/91.

2000 Robert Mondavi, Fume Blanc, Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley, California, $35. Reserve usually means oak, oak and more oak, but not with this wine. Oak is an accent here rather than taking over command. Fruit forward, with excellent acidity, the aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus and jasmine linger for an extended period of time. 90/88.