I've searched the forum and can't find anything on this. Is the 2007 Classic Limited 31 a good one to buy? Is there anything I should look for when I go to look at it? Any help would be appreciated as this is our first AS.

I went through this process in 2013 when I purchased a preowned 2008 Classic 25fb.

The forums on the main portal page on the right side has a feature that allows you to find volunteer inspectors in your area. I would contact someone near you that can help with the inspection.

Consider buying a trailer like a house. You want to inspect and test all the systems so the trailer is set up just like its ready to camp. If the trailer is winterized then you can't test the plumbing, water pump and water heater for correct operation. When testing the water faucets run the shower faucet and direct the water spray on the inside shower door flashing to see if water comes out onto the hallway floor. This happened to mine. I had to remove the shower door and reseal the flashing.

When checking the electrical measure the output of the converter at the converter 12v connections. Verify you are seeing the same voltage at the battery terminals. My converter wasn't working correctly and I replaced it with a better converter from Bestconverter.com; PD4655.

Make sure you understand the weight of this trailer. The published hitch weights are too low. Add 250lbs to get a realistic figure. Make sure you have an adequate tow vehicle.

You will need to inspect the sealing of all the windows, vents skylights etc. See if you see any water stains in the fabric that lines the interior walls and on the vinyl ceiling. Take off the AC air distribution cover and see if there are water stains. The drain pipe where it connects to the AC drip pan is visible. Mine was leaking at the drain pipe connection. I resealed it. Verify the drain pipe from the wheel well exit to the AC is clear. You should be able to blow air through it. A small shop vac is what I used.

Check the exterior for damage, dents etc

Your need to check the black water flush. My one way valve was broken and the first time I used it water came streaming out the bottom of my AS. I replaced the valve with an elbow fitting. The plastic check valve is not really need and its very cheap and a little left over water in it that freezes cracks it easily.

Make sure the sewer valves can be pulled in and out easily. Check the freshwater drain valve. Its plastic. Verify the handle isn't broken. To replace it a hole will have to be cut in the water tank shell surround.

The Micropulse monitor panel is a flaky system so don't expect it to work correctly.

You will need a moisture meter to probe the subfloor to find any water damage. Sonin is a meter a lot of us use.

The Classics of this vintage have hydraulic brakes. There are two recalls that Airstream has issued. One is for the flexible brake lines to be replaced and the other is to test for internal leaks in the Actibrake actuator. I had both performed as a condition of my sale. The dealer replaced the brake lines and I insisted they replace the controller with a Dexter unit even though the Actibrake wasn't leaking internally. I didn't want to have to worry about spending close to $1000 in parts and labor to get this part replaced down the line. There is a sticky thread in the Brake forums about the Classic brakes. Of course you need to have the brake pads inspected for wear and check the tires for age. If they are Goodyear Marathons many replace them with Michelin 235/75x15 LT tires. I did when I got mine since as it had the original GYM.

As Kelvin says, the '07 31 is a heavy trailer -- 10,000 lbs with all the tanks, closets and cabinets full and ready for a two-month caravan. The tongue weight is about 1,100 lbs. So that says 3/4 ton truck for a tow vehicle for the long haul. It's been a great camper for us and its held its value for six years, so I'd predict the same for yours. I bought my '07 and 3/4-ton truck with the hope that the truck, trailer and owner would all hold up for 10 years of camping adventures. Six years into the 10-year plan, we're all doing fine. I'd jump on that '07 31 Classic if I were you. Once you identify things that need fixing, you just might want to visit beautiful Jackson Center, OH, to have the work done.

My tongue weight on my Classic 25fb is about 1100lbs too but I tow with a 2010 Tundra 2wd Double Cab. It handles my AS fine but I'm considering a 3/4T 4x4 replacement or a F150 4x4 with HD Payload package for our long term tow requirements when we start extended travels to the west in a few years.

I forgot to add is to check the audio/TV operation. The Sony system is a goofy system and has a learning curve. Take a DVD to see if it plays back to the TV and the audio plays on the Sony.

Forgot to add Actibrake is no longer in business so if it fails you have to get it replaced with a Dexter or other brand.

Thanks for the great reply guys. Based on that and other info we've gleaned here we went ahead and bought it from David at Colonial in NJ. Sight unseen... A butt clenching decision as we're in Florida for several weeks before we head home to Virginia and it will be April before we will see it for the first time when we pick it up! I've heard of people doing this so we won't be the first but it sure feels strange to do it. Thanks again to Airforums and the great people here or we would never have done this.

I've searched the forum and can't find anything on this. Is the 2007 Classic Limited 31 a good one to buy? Is there anything I should look for when I go to look at it? Any help would be appreciated as this is our first AS.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Is THE 2007 Classic Limited 31 a good one to buy?

First, Welcome aboard. Second - I think you're actually asking the wrong question. The right question is ALWAYS --- Is THIS ONE a good one?

In an 8 year old trailer the key is "How has it been maintained?" - you can ruin a trailer in 1 to 3 years if you neglect it, or preserve it better than a time capsule if it's well cared for.

I see people who put me to shame when it comes to taking wonderful care of their Airstreams. I want to pay one friend to do mine the way he does his - It's washed down and hand dried after every trip, sealed twice a year - including EVERY rivet being gently baptized with Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure, (One little , two little, three little rivets, four little five little six little rivets.... 3222 little rivets all on a Saturday morning! And then the hyperactive twerp polishes the wheels!)

It's waxed quarterly and kept in a heated barn building. A speck of rust on the Hitch? Wire brush and POR 15 the whole thing! There's an owner you want to buy from.

I use the moisture meter ABOUT 3 times a year to check the floor, and I did get to the half way mark on the roof rivets before the weather turned to crap, and boy the minute it warms up I've got to lube those stabilizer jacks. On the other hand I know other owners who totally neglect theirs - have burst water heaters that they didn't immediately and thoroughly clean up after (like dropping the belly pan to get the insulation under there dry).

First I'd recommend Looking at the owner's service records. (Having service records is a good sign.) Secondly I'd want to get an inspection done ... and I'm not really impressed by Virginia's lone Airstream dealer.

Look and SNIFF. Bring a friend with lots of experience owning a trailer (doesn't HAVE to be an Airstream but it helps!)

Paula

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I checked out the photos on Colonial. The only visible issues is some corrosion on the tail lights and a panel with a small crease and a couple of dimples

One thing to know that AS has only 1 AC. According to their listing its only a 13.5k AC. It will not cool down the interior as well as 2 ACs. 2 ACs running together requires 50amp service which this one doesn't have so not an easy upgrade.

My 13.5k is able to keep my Classic 25fb inside in the low to mid 80s in direct sunlight at 100f when I lived in Texas but it runs constantly. All my awnings deployed.

I have the EB 25 with a 13.5 Air conditioner - 2012. Worried as I had the 15 A/C on the Safari and it seemed to work pretty hard to keep the unit cool. In fact, the new 13.5 is a bit noisier, but it works just fine - it tends to run more or less continuously, but if you're sleeping you're more likely to be awakened by the A/C cycling on and off than by it just running and running!

This is an opinion, and it's worth what you're paying for it, but I kinda think that two A/C's are overrated on several levels.

you NEED 50 amp service

extra cost of buying vs a 1 a/c unit

heavier cord, etc.

two A/C's to malfunction, not just one - double the expense to replace

how OFTEN do you really NEED that second one.

Yet another couple of hundred pounds of dead weight to carry on the frame, tires, etc.

There are so many clever people who've taken small window units and used them in vintage Airstreams that never had A/C... Why not consider using a small window unit to augment the main one. A really small unit can be run on a heavy duty extension cord plugged directly into the power stanchion - that means Zero extra draw on the rest of the trailer's usage. There are lots of little window units that cost $150 or less - which makes them almost disposable. And they weigh 20 lbs. They are less noisy than the roof mounted factory A/C's.

If you're headed up north or into higher altitudes where you won't need a second A/C you don't have to take it along.

One less potential leak site on the roof.

Lastly, do you really need to have the inside of the A/C cool enough to age beef? Seriously, one of our cardiologists says it's actually a serious strain on the heart to step from a 70 degree living room into 100 degree weather.

Just saying....

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The Classic 31 is a very nice floor plan. It is very similar to the Classic 30 with a few exceptions. They are actually the same length. The model numbers are different to distinguish the floor plan. The Classic 31 has a side bath and 3 wardrobe doors across the hall from the bathroom. The dinette is moved a little more toward the front of the coach. Sometimes the Classic 31 had a free standing dinette with the table mounted on a rail so that the table could be moved forward or back depending on your preference. The Classic 30 has a walk-through bath with 1 wardrobe door more toward the front of the coach and a little more room in the living room with a "credenza" by the dinette booth. The 31 floor plan 1-ups the 30 floor plan with the larger wardrobe.

However, many of us do not thinks so. The large private dressing area in the closed bath AND all the extra elbow room on the lounge is much preferred by me.

I agree , When my wife sat on the couch she (short person that she is) was unable to see over the settee and carry on a conversation with the person in the settee. The additional lounge room is geat for entertaining. Several people on the forum have mentioned that they had problems with the large wardrobe doors opening up under tow with the 31.

You do NOT need 50 amp service for a 2d A/C. I had a second unit installed in my 2012 28' Intl CCD at JC. The easy technique --- and it works very satisfactorily -- is to add a second external 30 amp connector. They added a box and breaker inside a rear wardrobe with a 2d 30 amp connector outside. I found this a great set-up. Last summer there were a number of times I needed the cooling power, so I'd get a 50 amp site. Plug in my 50 amp pigtail (with two 30 amp legs)...two 30 amp cords and I was in business. When I was on the two Honda 3000i Handi, just used the 15,000 BTU a/c in the front. I now have a '15 Classic with 50 amp service....and just LOOKING at that huge cable makes me long for the simpler days with the much easier to deal with 30 amp cable.

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