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yep I'm using the original pcm, original wiring harness all the original sensors, and injectors all of which worked on the old engine, the old engine had a rod and wrist pin that were slapping and would not maintain oir pressure which is the reason for the swap. I didn't expect to have this other problem. I've done many many engine swaps in the past and never had this kind of problem except on a 2002 toyota camry which I didn't have to make run just swap engine and tranny.

thanks... not good... if I understand you right... when you turn your key to on... the theft light goes from just ... slow pulsing to really fast and never goes out or solid (then out). Sounds like you could have a module issue... however, perhaps your pickup on the ignition is a problem... it could be just coinincidence that it happen during the motor effort. Just a thought.

Basically, if you don't get the light out, forget trying to start (just do your key in on for testing is all you need)... you are just wasting your battery, your starter and even your engine. There are threads on the pickup stuff that you might check before "fighting" the ford parts department on the module... I too have trouble getting the dealer to find parts for their own vehicles (GM seems to have a easier time with their makes... maybe more practice).

I took it to the dealer two days ago and thats what they said was it was a module problem and according to them they can't get it. So now what I am doing is finding a way to by pass it there has to be a way without spending anymore money. Its just a manner of finding the right wires and running then to ground so that the injector drives are grounded which is what the problem is. Everything else works it cranks I have spark and there is fuel in the fuel rail at the right pressure. just have to get the injector drivers to do their thing.

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The PCM controls the energizing of the injectors. Each injector has a dedicated pin on the PCM that grounds the injector at the appropriate time for the appropriate duration. If you wire the injectors to ground they will be permanently energized and your engine will not run due to an excessively rich mixture.

I searched quite a bit for the thread I remembered reading about deactivating PATS but couldn't find it. There's a wire or jumper that's used on the assembly line. If it was easy a thief could do it and defeat it's purpose. All I could find was by flashing the PCM with a custom tune.

Yeah I have searched all of those too and then some. From what I understand from the ford mechanic I have to find the starter interupt relay and ground the light green and purple wire, but I'm starting to wonder if hes fibbing or if the relay exsist cause I havn't been able to find it. I'll keep trying sooner or later I will get it and the lady that the truck is a gift for will finally get it.

I doubt that it a "starter associated wire" if there is a "wire around" method. Me thinks there is a "plug terminator" that might do something for you... but that is just a guess as the theft module "talks" to the system with more than just "grounds".

ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...

ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...

I have a 2000 ranger with a rapid flashing theft light, starter won't work, jumped starter relay to make starter operate, but still won't start because fuel system is also deactivated. Is there any place to find a wiring diagram of the PATS system. I have looked all over the net and have had no success. would like to bypass the whole system if possible but from what I have found that can't be done due to the ECM control of the starter, fuel pump and the injectors. guess the only option I have is to take it to the dealer which will require it to be towed about 15 miles. tried a number of ways to reset it but to no avail. anyone have a sure fire way that I can use to get the vehicle cranked so that I could drive the 15 miles rather than have the truck towed. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I have a 2000 ranger with a rapid flashing theft light, starter won't work, jumped starter relay to make starter operate, but still won't start because fuel system is also deactivated. Is there any place to find a wiring diagram of the PATS system. I have looked all over the net and have had no success. would like to bypass the whole system if possible but from what I have found that can't be done due to the ECM control of the starter, fuel pump and the injectors. guess the only option I have is to take it to the dealer which will require it to be towed about 15 miles. tried a number of ways to reset it but to no avail. anyone have a sure fire way that I can use to get the vehicle cranked so that I could drive the 15 miles rather than have the truck towed. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

From everything I ever read there is no way to bypass the PATS system. Do you have an extra key? When my gf's explore had this problem it ended up being the Key. Of course she only had one. If she would try repeatedly (sometimes it would take up to 30 min) she could get it to start. Once it finally failed that was it she had to have it towed to the dealer and have new keys made.

I have maybe a dumb question but I want to know.
If I have a good key and put that up under the dash could I then use just a regular cut key to start it?
Will the transponder in the good key work without actually being in the ign?

I have a 97 explorer and i dont have a pats at all and all of a sudden the system wont arm. when i lock the truck usually the theft light for the 95-97 explorers would illuminate and then flashing showing the alarm is armed. now that light doesnt turn on let alone flash. when i lock the truck it doesnt engage the alarm.also i had replaced the RAP module from a 2000 explorer and the keyless entry part works great and it used to engage the alarm till yesterday i locked the truck and the light wasnt on anymore. think you could help me? side note(i cleaned the battery off that morning and charged it at my tire shop and soaked my cables in baking soda and water. for a couple hours)

Sorry if this was already answered.
But my theft light flashes only when i shut the door after leaving the vehicle. I hit the lock button on my remote and theft light is still flashing. And stays flashing until I return later and turn the car on (with no problem).

This morning my Ford Explorer Sport ran fine. I went to auto parts store and purchased some MAF spray and sprayed it into the Mass Air Flow sensor.

I also purchased some Sea Foam to clean any carbon deposits up on the inside of the engine as I have been having idle issues the truck shutting off or dropping to a low RPM when the accelerator is released.

After getting home I added the Sea Foam to the engine via the hose that connects to the canister looking device that is directly behind the brake fluid resevoir.

The Sea Foam performed just like it should and smoke appeared. Shortly thereafter the truck simply shut off and would not restart.

I am assuming that the issue is the Theft Module as the battery is less than two weeks old and the battery charge indicator indicates the battery is low even though I placed a portable charger on the battery for around an hour.

When I try to start the vehicle the engine does not turn over and the truck acts like the battery is completely dead where a loud click comes from the left side of truck.

Also when I try to start the truck several times the power locks will lock and then unlock automatically.

I have already tried the negative battery terminal trick but that has not seemed to fix the problem.

Also when I turn the key to the ON position I can hear the Fuel Pump turn on.