Well it's been a year and I'm still using this very system. It still works perfectly fine, I've got no complain about it. The only time it did leak was due to me making a mistake and smashing the print head into a print, otherwise no issue at all.

1) it cost almost nothing. I think I've spent less than 10 bucks for mine. Took me something like 4-5 hours to build so it really isn't that much time either.2)takes about 5 second to switch from one side to the other, I used to have to lift my tools and secure them to my workbench, which took way more time and was way more exhausting3)I agree with this if you place a super heavy, giant drill press on top of it. It is better suited for lightweight tools, unless you have some kind of counterweight system.I don't know how big your workshop is, but In my tiny garage it actually makes a huge difference in terms of saved space and conveniency :)

I haven't thought of that, seems like a good idea. But I think it may cause more troubles than actual benefits, since you'll need to print two half disks (otherwise you cannot install them, and get their sizes pretty accurate otherwise it may not be watertight. I would also be worried that the bottom one may melt, I guess it shouldn't, but I'm not sure :)

Actually there is very little heat to evacuate, the reservoir barely gets warm at all. Even a plastic or wooden reservoir wouldn't make any difference :D Most of the heat goes away during the travel in the tubes. But this is absolutely true when it comes to evacuate a lot of heat.

You can do it with wood if you want, or basically any material. Just take the general idea and shape and do something approaching, be creative!

It would need a bit too much changes, I haven't the time to do that, sorry. But you can use tinkercad and modify the parts, basically you would just have to make the big square support a bit smaller, shouldn't be too very complicated :) Also, you will need to use smaller and less powerful cylinders, because the tablet is probably much lighter than a laptop.

Absolutely awesome project.I tried myself, using an Arduino Mega + Ramps to control the torch. However, I have a problem: The Arduino keeps on blowing up whenever the torch gets fired. It is activated through a standard relay board. Any thoughts on how to protect it effectively?

Nice little table saw but I think you may want to use an other system than the clips to hold it in place, first because they can become loose due to vibration at some point, and second because it might break in case of kickback or exceptional event. You probably better bolt it directly to the table and use butterfly nuts to quicky remove the saw whenever you need.Other than this, great build !

Well, it would have been useful to me a few months ago. My electric scooter stopped running in the middle of nowhere because of a wire harness issue, if I had known this technique at that time I wouldn't have had to push my machine 5 kilometers back to my garage. And this is just one example among dozens of others I had in my life.Really don't understand what point you're trying to make here. But if you have a better way, feel free to share it.

Who cares about efficiency here? The point is that it can be really useful in some situations where you're outside and don't have any tool with you.I think it's brilliant, thanks a lot for sharing this great trick!

I made one of those last year. Instead of using wood to do the rails, I recommend you to use some cheap aluminum extrusions (the kind that are used as guide rails for closets doors). They cost almost nothing, they are perfectly flat and it is easier to slide the router cariage on them.

Ok, I understand now, Thanks a lot for this very clear explanation.I might have to learn about whatever is the "tool radius compensation" though :DAgain, great work, I love this software, super convenient to use.

Nice instructable and great software. I just fail to see in this context how "engraving" is different from "part". In the "part" function it is also possible to create your own paths using the manual option too, so why using engraving instead of this?Also, if I understand correclty, we need to save 2 different projects. Could'nt it be possible to just add a pause after the first path are done, then the user just press the resume button after he moved the clamps? For now I'm just a beginner using the free version of Estlcam, but I'll buy it for sure soon, this software is awesome.Keep up the great work!

Well, I ended up redisigning everything, since I use a CNC instead of a laser cutting machine (This way I can use much thicker material).So far, here is the result, I hope to finish it this week. Thanks for the inspirations!

Great lamp, I'll build one. Thanks a lot for the instructable!Only "complaint" though: the svg file doesn't work correctly in Estlcam. I think it would be better if you could provide separate SVG files for each part :)

The idea is good but the instructable is not detailed enough, please explain us how you did the software part, it seems very very interesting!! :)I also don't understand why do you need to use a 10 turn potentiometer: Wouldn't it be the same to just use one limit switch at the bottom of the door? When the swicth is closed then you know that the door is opened end vice versa.Would be much cheaper I think. Sure, you wouldn't be able to know its exact position, but how actually this information would be important anyways?

Thanks!Yeah, the table top still hasn't moved at all, it's very surdy. Just a few scratches because I use it every day and didn't protect it yet. I didn't had much hope about making this tabletop since it was my first attempt, but it turned out nice. For this step, having a real planner and a jointer would really make things much, much easier. I think the table top could be done in less than two days (minimum because of the gluing time) with such tools... It took several weeks without those tools (had to prep each slat one by one...).Bottom line is, anyone can do it, and this is a really nice skill to have, since you can use it to do many things, like a big countertop for a kitchen, a bathroom or anything, you can even mix wood colors for some crazy finishes. Those things are pretty exp...

Thanks!Yeah, the table top still hasn't moved at all, it's very surdy. Just a few scratches because I use it every day and didn't protect it yet. I didn't had much hope about making this tabletop since it was my first attempt, but it turned out nice. For this step, having a real planner and a jointer would really make things much, much easier. I think the table top could be done in less than two days (minimum because of the gluing time) with such tools... It took several weeks without those tools (had to prep each slat one by one...).Bottom line is, anyone can do it, and this is a really nice skill to have, since you can use it to do many things, like a big countertop for a kitchen, a bathroom or anything, you can even mix wood colors for some crazy finishes. Those things are pretty expensive if you want to purchase them straight from the store...

Haha, I'm sorry... On my next instructable I'll put all the tools as MANDATORY, just tell me in advance which one you need so I can put them in the list XDI'm not sure about what you are asking for the part numbers of the electricals?If it is for the automatic router, then I think all the parts numbres are mentioned.If it is about the main power items, I don't think there is any special component. These are just common plugs, switches and lights that you can find in any hardware store. Could you tell me more specifically what information is missing?

Thanks!

The finishing on your workbench is great... But I'm getting more and more confused about finishing now... Poly, epoxy, now Tung oil... No idea which one is the best in my case.The only issue I see with your finishing is that it is too beautiful, I would be worried to ruin it everytime I do any job :D

Hi, The workbench can be fully disassembled, In my case I just glued it in 3 parts. It didn't need bolts or nuts, since my tenons were a tight fit (hasn't moved at all ever since). I didn't mentioned it since I assumed most people would either glue the wole thing, or get the idea of not gluing it entirely by themselves. Maybe I will edit this section to make it clearer, thanks :)Joining the bench at an angle is impossible unless you design it this way from the very beginning. I didn't have an use for an angled workbench so I didn't even try, but you can edit very easily the 3D files and maybe come with a versatile design on this matterFor the wings, I thought about using legs, but I chose not to. There were 2 reasons for that:-It would imply a foldable leg system increasing the width of...

Hi, The workbench can be fully disassembled, In my case I just glued it in 3 parts. It didn't need bolts or nuts, since my tenons were a tight fit (hasn't moved at all ever since). I didn't mentioned it since I assumed most people would either glue the wole thing, or get the idea of not gluing it entirely by themselves. Maybe I will edit this section to make it clearer, thanks :)Joining the bench at an angle is impossible unless you design it this way from the very beginning. I didn't have an use for an angled workbench so I didn't even try, but you can edit very easily the 3D files and maybe come with a versatile design on this matterFor the wings, I thought about using legs, but I chose not to. There were 2 reasons for that:-It would imply a foldable leg system increasing the width of the workbench-It wasn't really necessary, I was quite surprised by the strenght of those foldable brackets. I didn't put too much thought in these wings so far, since I didn't have the opportunity to use them much. It surely could be improved for heavy duty use with a bit of tinkering. I'll see that once I'll have my wheels :)

Hi Rene,I agree with what you say, my current power installation could be improved. And actually I plan to improve it very soon. About the main connector I use, there is actually a piece of transparent plastic on it, the connectors are behind it so you cannot touch them. I think it was removed when I took the pictures on step 14, but you can see it on the last picture of step 1. Actually, unless you really try, you cannot directly touch any part connected to main voltage. Unfortunately that was the only connector I had at that time, which is the reason why I used this in the first place. It will be replaced by a circuit breaker soon.About the use of solid wires, I havent even thought of it. I think I'll use solid wires when I'll rework my electrics, It will make the internal organizatio...

Hi Rene,I agree with what you say, my current power installation could be improved. And actually I plan to improve it very soon. About the main connector I use, there is actually a piece of transparent plastic on it, the connectors are behind it so you cannot touch them. I think it was removed when I took the pictures on step 14, but you can see it on the last picture of step 1. Actually, unless you really try, you cannot directly touch any part connected to main voltage. Unfortunately that was the only connector I had at that time, which is the reason why I used this in the first place. It will be replaced by a circuit breaker soon.About the use of solid wires, I havent even thought of it. I think I'll use solid wires when I'll rework my electrics, It will make the internal organization of the wires cleaner, so good suggestion :)About the fire hazard, I'm not convinced. If there is some water spills (very unlikely inside the enclosure), or if two wires touch, then the main breaker of my house cuts the power instantly. This happened to me before because of a defective power tool I was using. Actually, in my experience, fire hazard are mainly due to two factors: not enough section of wire or terminals while using high current, or bad contact between terminals, which creates tiny sparks, building heat progressively until starting the fire. The wires and terminals I use are generously dimensioned (maybe overkill), and all connexions are tighten very hard, so I'm quite confident about that.Anyway, we both agree that it could be better, yes :)

Nice build, this is a neat idea, I will build one if I find some time. Just a question: how do you lock the legs of the table open, so they don't fold back or wobble when there is weight on it? My main concern would be the table legs to fold easily whenever too much load is applied and someone pushes it a bit sideways.

Thanks you very much! I think I paid about 800-1000 rmb for the wood, 300 for the polycarbonate, about 200 rmb of screws and fixings, 300 rmb for the power supplies, about 400 for the router motor and driver, and maybe 500 in total for various other things, like lights, plugs, wires and stuffs. I think in total it was less than 3000 rmb.

Sure, just tell me what information is missing, I can add it in the instructable :)

Oh, yes, I apparently forgot to put the code... I'll have to find it in my other computer, I'll try to do that this week, thanks !For the schematics, I was working on it, just need to check a few things on the actual workbench to remember how everything was wired. Should be done also by the end of the week.