Black Orchid Cafe/fort Lauderdale

Step into the elegantly comfortable Black Orchid Cafe, give chef/owner George Telles permission to do his thing, and he'll be happy to start you out with a walk on the wild side.

It might be whisper-thin slices of buffalo carpaccio, loin of Canadian elk or grilled ostrich offset by brandied mango chutney au jus. Or, there's the ounce of Beluga for those wanting to throw caution to the wind, along with $225, or brie en croute with fresh fruit, oysters Rockefeller laced with Pernod ($9.95 each), and good old shrimp cocktail at $2.95 per.

You see, Telles does what few other chefs in town do. In today's world of seared tuna and wasabi this and that (though you'll find it on his menu as well), he brings back retro tastes with a sense of style and a touch of exotica. While continental cuisine seldom dazzles, it's still satisfying, especially when coupled with dramatic flambM-iing and tableside carvings of novel things like wild African game pheasant.

Telles spends his time in the kitchen, so it's general manager Nuri Hijjage who performs his well-practiced art of dining-room grandeur. He parks his cart tableside, then deftly prepares treats such as beefsteak tartar ($17.95), beginning with fresh pepper grindings, salt, garlic and a little anchovy fillet to make a paste. Dijon mustard goes in next, then Tabasco, fresh lemon juice, olive oil, capers and the piece de resistance, ground tenderloin. It's finished with mix-ins -- chopped raw onion and an egg yolk before presentation with sliced fresh crisp toast.

If you'd like to sample exotic game, but not sure you want to make a meal on it, most are available as appetizers as well as entrees. The appetizer delivers one half the entree portion at one half the price and the kitchen is happy to mix and match. It's a great way to try that elk ($38.95 entree), a delicious filet mignon-like meat with no gamey taste, cooked medium rare, served on fresh lingonberry sauce for a delightful fruity counterpoint.

Another first course to set a positive tone is blackened seafood trio ($12.95), perfectly cooked shrimp, scallops and fish (ours was salmon), with heady blackening spices that deliver good heat to play against the coolness of roasted red pepper beurre blanc and tomato salsa. A bowl of tasso ham and black bean soup ($5.50), with sherry, sour cream and onions was good, not great, and we liked the fresh hearts of palm salad ($7.95), on Boston lettuce and Belgian endive with Roma tomatoes in vibrant balsamic vinaigrette, though wished it had been heavier on the palm.

Splurge for the wild African game pheasant ($38.95) and enjoy an ideally roasted large bird (it tastes like chicken) with wonderfully crisp skin. It makes an initial appearance as a whole bird on the tableside cart where it's expertly carved, flambM-ied and combined with wild mushroom sauce bumpy with assorted mushrooms. Veal Shalimar ($34.95), a pleaser totally prepared in the kitchen, brings thickly sliced, tender as can be veal with large shrimp and crabmeat set on Bordelaise sauce with a final layer of bM-iarnaise. It's rich, but cut by a flanking of sauteed banana halves.

An evening special, lamb Wellington ($32.95), was a pretty sight within the confines of golden brown puff pastry. A cut of the knife opened the tasty package to reveal tender lean lamb topped with soft greens and pine nuts. In the fish category, we opted for swordfish "Kennebunkport" ($24.95), since our first choice, Dover sole, wasn't available.

The thick fillet was nicely cooked and first quality, but toppings of artichoke hearts, Chinese Rice Field lobster tails and hollandaise overpowered the delicacy of the fish.

If you forgot to order your personal Grand Marnier or chocolate souffle ($10.50) at the beginning of the evening, take solace in old favorites -- bananas foster or cherries jubilee at $10.50 per person, prepared for two or more. Personally, I prefer the hot peppered strawberry flambe ($21 for two servings), a compelling blend of berries, peppered vodka, crme de cassis and strawberry liqueur with vanilla ice cream for a creamy finish.

It's been eight years since Telles began his unique concept that includes an excellent wine list -- and on any given night you're likely to dine with plenty of regulars who attest to its never-ending popularity.

Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks, e-mail her at judithstocksreviews@yahoo .com or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel.