New York is a joy to eat in, as long as you’re prepared to do it on their
terms... They’re snobbishly hung up on the right way to serve everything,
from sandwiches to wedding cake . . .

And now, if you want a table at Le Caprice, you can also get it in New York.
The great London restaurant that was my father’s favourite, and the abiding
lunch spot for journalists, has transferred to the city that in many ways