Kenmore dryer #110.96590140 will not spin

I set the timer to Timed Dry and anywhere in the minutes range and I can hear the timer ticking. I then push the Start button and it does nothing. I open the door and the light goes on and I push the door switch with my finger and the light goes off. I then hold the door switch in and press the Start button again. I hear and feel the click of the Start switch, but the barrel still does not start spinning. The belt is fine and I can turn the barrel manually and when I do the blower fan spins but the motor isn't running. This started up a few days ago. Today I changed out the roller drum supports and the belt, because a couple of weeks ago one of the rollers was squealing pretty loud. I'm ok with the mechanical, but the electrical has me baffled.
Bob

Double check the thermal fuse just to be sure. It will be located on the air blower housing and should be a white plastic component with two wires connected to it. It should read a short if good. I could be mistaken, but I believe the drum light will still come on with the thermal fuse blown. If I led you astray in my write up, I do apologize. All dryers are not configured the same.

If the thermal fuse is good, pull the connector from the drive motor and inspect it. I have found where these connectors look like they are tight, but actually aren't, causing the connector and wires to burn. If the connector checks good, you have a couple of options. You could have a defective motor. Take a resistance check across the blue wire and violet wire on the motor. This should be your start winding. Resistance should be between 2.4 to 3.8 ohms. If it reads anything higher than 4 ohms, it's recommended that you replace it. If the motor is okay you may have a defective belt switch and/or centrifugal switch. I'm not sure how your dryer is configured. I will need the COMPLETE model number (located around the door opening) to be sure.

Before I can give you further advice about troubleshooting or replacing parts, I need to be sure of what you find. Please post back and let me know.

Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.

My dryer of the same model number had the same issue. The teflon/plastic wear points are worn out or have fallen off. They are about $22.00 plus shipping at the site below. Disconnect the power, lift (with force) the top off at the front of the dryer and you will have access to remove and replace.

Felt glide assembly - Upper felt seal with three glides attached. Comes with adhesive. Part Number: AP2150497 made by FRIGIDAIRE

Good day. Ugly problem.
My first choice would have been the motor, but.......
Here is the process, it might help you.
The power to the motor goes first to and thru the door switch. It then returns to the timer.
When the timer is turned to any running position, power leaves the timer where it is split into 2 leads.

One of the power leads goes directly to the centrifugal switch Which is the switch on the motor with all the wires. If you spin the drum, you also spin the motor, and if spun fast enough will close the contacts on the cetrifugal switch, thus sending power to the motor, allowing it to run. I guess you have done that.

The second lead out of the timer goes to the push to start switch, it then leaves and goes to the centrifugal switch but on the power side, so it is directly connected to the main winding in the motor.
That is why when you press the press to start switch, the motor runs, and if held in it will continue to run.
In fact, at this point, the motor had 2 sources of power, either of which can run the motor.
Thus releasing the push to start switch doesn't matter, since it runs off the other source.

Possibilities.
The centrifugal switch is not wired right. Please recheck. (or the motor was bad out of the box. Happens).
The push to start switch is bad, and needs replaced.
Or, the wiring going to or leaving the push to start switch has broken or making a bad connection.
Lastley, I said the power comes out of the timer and splits into 2 circuits. Not always true, in some models the timer sends 2 seperate wires out carrying the power, with the possibility the timer could be bad.

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Related Questions:

the ticking sound you hear is the timer motor.this is normal on timed dry.on auto dry you should only hear it when the heater is turned off.if the dryer shuts off and will not start after 20 to30 min. the motor has over heated and stopped to prevent over heating.venting is the no.1 cause of this.the vent system needs to be checked first.if it is a magic chef,admiral,or maytag under a few years the part below the lint screen needs to have all that lint removed every 6mo.

This is very rare on a gas dryer but I have seen it. If you have already replaced all that other stuff I would say it has to be inside the timer. On one I worked on once I could remove that orange wire and the dryer would function ok so I ordered a new timer, they sent me a bad timer. Same problem. I finally got a working timer after going through a bunch of mess. That fixed it. So if all the other components are working it very well could be the timer.

Electric or gas dryer?Depending on where the ticking sound is coming from, without more specific information, many dryers use a timer within their dial for timed drying. If the switches are malfunctioning, the ticking of the "timer" can still continue.If you can hear a whirring sound, which would be the motor, then it may be the drive belt. If this is the case, then the ticking of the timer may be more noticeable due to it being quieter without the spinning drum.

If you have a gas dryer and the ticking is from below, then it may be the ignitor that's faulty. However, that shouldn't cause your dryer not to turn on. It that case the dryer would spin, but not get warm.With more information, I may be of better assistance.

This is typical. If the heating element is no longer working, the unit doesnt know to turn off due to the clothes still being wet. However, the timer has absolutely nothing to do with the heating of the unit. If the timer doesnt turn off the unit even when the time is short (example: 10 minute timed dry), the timer has a different issue. If you have merely set the dryer to dry the clothes (not a "timed cycle" to dry) then the dryer will continue to run as I have stated before. The dryer will run until the clothes are dry. Now, its time to address the heating part. Your dryer heating element has gone bad. It can be replaced if you are somewhat handy. You can pick one up from your local appliance store and it has simple instructions. Please make sure that you disconnect the unit from its power source prior to attempting any repairs. Safety First. You can also call someone to replace it for you and it shouldnt be too costly. Good luck on either option.

if you are using the sensor drying cyle this could cause the unit to stop. it will detect the most dry clothing first usually light clothes that dry faster.if not and you are useing timed dry the most likely cause is a faluty timer,or a thermostat sesnor is going bad and turnoing off the dryer before the clothes are dry

Call the mfr and ask them about it. This problem may be pretty complicated. There may be a problem with your board that tells it to go to cool down. Can you set the timer for 45-60 minutes and it stay on heat for that long?