Handheld turnovers are perfect for picnics

Amanda Berne

Published 4:00 am, Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Recently, I went on the best date of my life. It was a third date, and we went to my favorite beach in Point Reyes. Taking charge, my date prepared a picnic lunch, complete with thick wool blanket to sit on and camping stove for tea afterward.

Opening one of the foil-wrapped packages, I found a beautiful Cornish pasty, a handheld savory pie that originated in Cornwall, England. My date is English, and often craves these simple, portable meals, so he figured out how to make them. They were delicious even when cold.

I devoured mine, and for the rest of the date was distracted by ideas of what to fill the short pastry crust with when I made my version at home.

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Handheld pies are popular in many cultures, and as I write this column from an Internet cafe in Buenos Aires, I have already munched happily on three empanadas.

While the pastry dough for a Cornish pasty is short, similar to an unsweetened pie dough, the empanadas range from chewy, like a good pizza crust, to flaky and almost croissant-like. The dough is filled with everything but the kitchen sink. A creamy corn filling is my favorite so far, but carrot is popular at one of the street stands.

These pastries are slightly time consuming to prepare, but you can make extra and freeze them so they're ready to be pulled out and popped into the oven for a quick and hearty vegetarian meal, especially when served with a big salad.

While I played with different dough recipes, I found that for variety's sake, and tospeed up the process, store-bought pastry works best. There are three kinds that work for these sturdy fillings: pizza dough, frozen puff pastry, and prepared pie dough.

I've included recipes for a smoky potato pie, which gets its characteristic flavor from smoked paprika and a broccoli pie with seasonal green garlic and ricotta, but any cooked vegetables will work. Just remember to season the filling well so it's not overwhelmed by the dough.

Pizza dough stands up best to hearty fillings; fold it into a half-moon shape, like a calzone. Pie dough is delicate and slightly more difficult to work with, but the short crust is more traditional with root vegetable fillings. It goes particularly well with the smoky potato filling.

To make any empanadas, simply roll out your choice of dough fairly thin on a well-floured surface. For cocktail sizes, cut into 3-inch circles, but for a more substantial meal, go for 6-inch rounds.

Fill the circles, then either fold the dough into a half moon, sealing the edges with egg yolk or water, or top one piece with another for a beautiful round pie. Crimp the edges, pop them in a 375-degree oven and pull them out when they are nicely browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. For a glossier finish, brush them with an egg wash (egg yolk or white beaten with a small amount of water) before baking.

If you want to freeze the pies, do that before cooking, and then count on them taking a little longer in the oven.

For a party, do as the Argentines do, and crimp each pie with its own design around the edges to signify different fillings to the guests.

For me, they were the perfect snack, when I was famished during a layover. And, I will be making them for my next picnic. Only with a different date.

This is great with flaky, buttery puff pastry dough, and the store-bought kind is very nice. Even cold, these are delicious. Any leftover filling makes a wonderful side dish.

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups peeled, cubed potatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced

1 red pepper, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 bay leaf

1/3 cup raisins

1/3 cup green olives with pimentos, sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup vegetable broth or water

2 sheets frozen puff pastry dough

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Instructions: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add potatoes and cook until tender almost all the way through when pierced with a fork. Drain and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a medium pan over medium heat. Add the onion and pepper and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until they turn golden. Add garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add paprika, bay leaf, raisins and olives. Season with salt and pepper, and cook for 30 seconds more.

Add potatoes to the pan along with the vegetable broth. Simmer, stirring often and mashing some of the potato mixture as you go. Season to taste (potatoes need plenty of salt). Cook for about 5-10 minutes until flavors are well combined, adding water as needed to keep filling moist, but not soupy.

Allow to cool.

While the filling is cooling, thaw the puff pastry dough according to package directions. Preheat oven to 375°. Grease two baking sheets or line with parchment paper.

Roll out pastry to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 6-inch plastic lid as a template, cut the dough into circles. Place the circles onto the baking sheets. Mound about 1/4 cup of the filling on the lower third of each circle, leaving a 1-inch border. Lightly brush the edge of the dough with water, then fold the dough over the filling to make a half-moon shape. Crimp the edges with a fork. Brush the pie tops with egg wash, if desired. Cut a small slit into the top of each pie. Bake the pies for 15 to 20 minutes or until the tops and edges are lightly browned.

This pie is also nice with pizza dough. Leftover filling can be used in an omelet.

INGREDIENTS:

2 sheets frozen puff pastry dough

2 cups broccoli, chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, sliced

3 stalks green garlic, sliced

1 cup ricotta

Salt and pepper to taste

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Instructions: Thaw puff pastry according to package instructions. Preheat oven to 375°. Grease two baking sheets or line with parchment paper.

Bring a medium-size pot of water to a boil. Add broccoli and cook until fork tender. Drain.

Heat oil in a skillet. Add onion and saute slowly until translucent. Add green garlic; saute for 1 minute. Add broccoli and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add a little water if pan is too dry. Remove from heat, let cool 5 minutes, then add ricotta. Season with salt and pepper.

Roll out pastry to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 6-inch plastic lid as a template, cut dough into circles. Place circles on baking sheets. Mound about 1/4 cup of the filling on lower third of each circle, leaving a 1-inch border. Lightly brush edge of dough with water, then fold the dough over the filling to make a half-moon shape. Crimp the edges with a fork. Brush the pie tops with egg wash, if desired. Cut a small slit into the top of each pie. Bake the pies for 15 to 20 minutes or until the tops and edges are lightly browned.

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