Lady Curzon Soup

Introduced to England at the beginning of the 20th century by the wife of the British viceroy of India, this soup, enhanced with cream and a touch of curry, was soon turning up in dining rooms across Europe.

Special equipment: an instant-read thermometer; 8 to 10 (1-oz) shot glasses or demitasse or espresso cups

Preparation

Make broth:
Cook all broth ingredients, covered, in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until mussels just open wide, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer mussels with a slotted spoon to a bowl and reserve for another use. (Discard any unopened mussels.) Pour broth through a coffee-filter-lined sieve into a bowl, discarding solids. Strain broth again through same lined sieve into a 2-cup glass measure and reserve 1 cup for soup. (Freeze remainder if desired.)

Make soup:
Heat butter in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat until foam subsides. Add curry powder and cook, stirring constantly, until just a shade darker, about 1 minute. Add Madeira and bring to a boil. Add mussel broth and bring to a boil. Whisk together cream and yolk in a bowl, then add broth mixture in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Return soup to saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until just slightly thickened and registers 170°F on thermometer, about 2 minutes. (Do not simmer.) Divide among glasses.

Cooks' note:
Soup can be made 1 day ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Carefully reheat (do not let simmer) before serving.

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