It’s hard to imagine that the now flourishing downtown Alpharetta was once a no man’s land for sophisticated food. The evolution of this pocket of town is thanks in big part to Maven Restaurant Group, which led the way with its openings of South Main Kitchen and Butcher & Brew in years past, and Lapeer Seafood Market this spring. “We’re at the center of the revitalization of this area. This street was pretty barren a couple of years ago. Now it’s going gangbusters!” says Andy Long, Maven Restaurant Group’s culinary director. “Alpharetta just didn’t have any refined seafood restaurants, and we wanted to bring something special to this area.”

Open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, Lapeer’s hyperseasonal menus change frequently, as does its petite oyster list. Artfully presented dishes reel in fresh-daily seafood primarily from the Gulf Coast, as well as produce from local Georgia farms. Distinctive, thoughtful combinations include cubed Louisiana tuna with fennel, chile oil, puffed quinoa and Peruvian pink salt; and Gulf Coast crawfish tartine with asparagus, sweet peas, pickled onion, radish and local ricotta. Even the basics are elevated, such as warm bread rolls served with fresh dill, parsley and mint butter; and flavorful wild-caught peel-’n’-eat shrimp that are cooked sous vide to keep them plump and juicy.

“We serve whatever is freshest and in season,” says Long, whose diverse résumé includes Aria, The Fry Guy food truck, Inc. Street Food and the former Cafe 640. Truly, everything tastes bright and fresh, just like the restaurant feels. The modern and airy 3,000-square-foot space designed by New York-based Curious Yellow Design is inspired by the coastal cool of Montauk. From wooden tables and chairs with leather cross-stitched seats to black basket light fixtures, custom tiles and brass fixtures, all of the decor for the expansive bar, indoor restaurant and enclosed outdoor patio was handmade in Bali and handpicked by Maven co-owner Louis Soon, the visionary behind the concept.

As any good leader would, Long is quick to point out that the launch success of Lapeer has been a meeting of the epicurean minds. His team includes executive chef Blake Hartley, previously of acclaimed chef Frank Stitt’s Bottega Restaurant in Birmingham; pastry chef Elise Vitale, whose Fish Stix (coconut ice cream rolled in white chocolate and toasted coconut, made to mirror a real fried fish stick) is a menu must-try; and Beverage Director Cody Brown, who has curated an extensive mezcal menu.

Culinary Director Andy Long

If you don’t live in Alpharetta, know that Lapeer is worth the drive. If you do, lucky you. Just be sure to make a reservation, as this new hot spot is already a big catch. 12 N. Broad St., 678.691.9400