Surfing Swami’s

After yesterday’s session at Big Rock I thought the waves might still be pumping so I decided to visit Swami’s this a.m. rather than wait until Friday (this takes the place of Friday’s Spot Check). The swell wasn’t quite as big as yesterday but it looked like fun, at least most of the time–even at 7am there were around 50 people out and some of the waves were quite crowded. It always is at Swami’s. There were a few close calls and in one case someone’s loose board got run over and it looks like it probably suffered a slicing gash from the rider’s fin. All in all, though, it was a nice morning.