Today, the day after our return to Rome from Sicily, was a big day for big art. It began in the Vatican Museums. They were remarkably without crowds. We stayed for a long time in the Sistine Chapel. We sat and looked, stood and looked, read and looked, and listened and looked. Michelangelo was quite a guy. That he could conceive of the images and stories in this room is outstanding, but then he went on to realize it all in paint. The ceiling and the large Judgement fresco behind the altar are glorious. No pictures were allowed so I can't share them here. If I could, I would want most to show the amazing movement he creates in the large Last Judgement. All is in a massive and compelling swirl.

Our next major stops(oh, there is so much to see here) were the rooms by Raphael. It's wonderful to think that while Michelangelo was in one room working, Raphael was in another. It would be splendid to know what they might have said to each other about their work. Photos were allowed here, but it was impossible to get more than a hint.