Cafe Is Good For Growing Area

Taste of Tidewater

Cafes often inhabit small, intimate storefronts. Harbourview Cafe, on the other hand, seems to embody the wide-open space of its location, the sprawling Harbour View development in northern Suffolk.

High-ceilinged dining rooms fan off from the open kitchen area of this contemporary space, anchored at one end of the subdivision's shops and cinema complex. Artwork seems almost lost on an expanse of walls, though the patterned carpeting, wood-stained wainscoting and warm colors of brick and sage help bring the action to eye level. Still, plants might soften the interior.

An inviting lounge in the rear, dominated by a large-screen TV, can be reached through the restaurant or by an outside door.

Opened late last year by Carrie and Robbie Delaney, the restaurant manages to relax things with simple, well-prepared bistro food. There's also a wide range of choices -- from tempting appetizers to a few high-end entrees -- and care has gone into livening up dishes with interesting sauces and accompaniments. Tempura-battered tuna bites served with a Wasabi aioli, for example, put a taste-hot spin on this standard appetizer.

Portions are generous, and a selection of potato and vegetable sides gives diners more choices. Low-carb items are plainly marked as well.

Fried chicken livers, calamari, wings and several seafood items vary the appetizer lineup. The platter full of cornmeal-battered fried oysters ($8.95) that we ordered needed a crisper coating but were full of flavor. Our waitress brought us a sampling of dipping sauces. The spicy remoulade sauce needed more zip, but a zesty homemade cocktail sauce was a winner.

Two soft shell crabs ($8.95), our second appetizer, were lightly fried and delicious. They're also available as an entree.

The range of prices, from $14.25 for the humble catfish to $29 for a veal chop, clearly offers something for most pocketbooks. Steak, duck, chicken, pork and a variety of seafood items extend variety to entrees choices as well. A children's menu takes a family-friendly approach with rock-bottom prices. The crab cakes special ($23.95) caught our eye and didn't disappoint. Two large cakes served on a bed of rice and vegetables were nicely prepared and light on filler.

Meat-lovers will enjoy the New Zealand lamb loin ($17.25) done in a demi-glace and served with a mint pesto. Several pieces of medium-rare tender lamb fanned over a serving of mashed potatoes made for a hearty, flavorful dish.

Low-carb fanatics might go for the low-carb cheesecake, but other sweets were calling. Two desserts ($6.50) made on the premises, pecan pie and creme brulee, proved great choices. The creme brulee's crunchy burned-sugar top and smooth vanilla texture struck the right chord. The pie, topped with pecans and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, was not overly sweet.

Harbourview Cafe will serve the neighborhood growing up around it in fine fashion and should attract outsiders with its range of prices and enjoyable food. *