Discussion Topic

This article was in Mountain 66 (March/April 1979) and 67 (May/June 1979).

Sorry for the relatively large size - no other way to do it. I downsized everything, so there's some loss of photo quality, but it's still readable.

The related article, "The Art of the States" was in Mountain 66 - an article by Bob Godfrey about filming the first free ascent of the northwest face of Half Dome.

The cover photo, "The States of the Art", is a painting by David Hague. Hopefully it's ok to post it also. Also, some of the photos aren't by Mark or Max, e.g. Ed Webster - hopefully ok to put them up.

Wow, thanks for saving and sharing that! It is great to see the original photos and the full text. It brings me right back to being blown away by their slideshow in the late 70s. "Saying goodbye to their hands", etc. Leading the Phoenix on hexes!! The lads were way ahead of their time, that was for sure! (It was obvious then as it is now).

I was way up there on the Phoenix, on our third day working on it, I was going for the top but I had to stop to place a largish hex, I was maybe ten or fifteen above my last nut but as I moved past that one, I hit it with my foot and it totally tipped out! I was now way, way pumped and looking at a forty footer (onto a swami). My brother was hanging next to me, taking photos so I leaned over and grabbed his rope and batmaned to the top.

Man did that article define my generation of climbers-totally captivating-what was cool was it was about just doing it. Not shooting,writing, pissing, moaning but going out climbing- and trying to climb at your best as far high and hard as you could.

hey mark, max vaguely referred to the "team" that you guys made in terms of freeing stuff.

Max's sister, Lynne, made us shirts that had our name over one shirt pocket and "Dynamic Duo" over the other. We used to laugh and say we had super powers.

Max and I just fit from day one. Our first route ever was the Nose in the spring of 1976. We did the route, free climbing up to 5.11 in 2.5 days. It was Max's first El Cap route and my second.
He was as dedicated as I was. We would sit around looking at topos trying to figure out if a route would go free or not. If something had a pin list of, i.e.,, 35 knifeblades and was rated A3 then we figured it wouldn't go. If if had only five or six, we figured it would. Even if it had aid, if there looked to be a lot of good free climbing, we'd go up on in. We didn't care if it was all free or not.
We used to flip a coin at the start of the season and the person who won the toss got to call which pitch he wanted to lead on the first route. After that we would alternate every day for the rest of the season. Max was the technical pro and I was the run out master.
We would show up in the Valley with a calendar of routes and rest days all planned out. We'd leave in some slush days for bad weather or new routes we might hear about.
In the four years we climbed together we never had an argument or anything. We pretty much always wanted to the same route and were always really psyched to get out and climb. I remember once, we were speed climbing the NW Face of Half Dome and I was leading a pitch, it was pretty easy so I just yelled down to Max to start climbing, he started and I continued on. About 300 feet later I stopped on Big Sandy and put him on belay (around the waist!). He came up to the ledge and said "jeez, that was a long pitch"!

Nice post. In addition to being super motivated climbers, the few times I met Mark and Max, they were always friendly and encouraging.

One Valley memory is of Mark showing me his tube tent filled to the brim with "cans." He was nice enough to clue my friend DE and I about were such bounty lay waiting. After our own midnight foray, and rapid fire "redemption" scheme, we had enough folding money to spend another three weeks in the Valley.

I met Mark and Max, at Donner Summit when I was 14 in 1976. I was leading Black September and they, along with Jim Orey and Gary Allen, were doing Lightning Bolt roof, later that afternoon I got to join their session at Goldilocks wall. Over the next 4 years they inspired me and gave me a lot of mentoring on training and technique, I often camped in their site at C4 and spent many rainy days and evenings in their company. For four years I tried hard to crank in their footsteps and with a couple of the first new Friends on my rack, did some of the next or early ascents of the some of the “State of the Art” routes: Tales of Power, Astroman, West Face El Cap, the Prow, White Eye, Supercrack; but not the hardest - Babylon and the Phoenix. Mark and Max were the dynamic duo and they pulled down, inspired us all, and made an impression at any crag they visited.

One time I took over their camp site when my high school summer vacation started, and they had finished their Valley season, I said goodbye at breakfast and they left camp while I was out climbing. When I returned to the site I saw that they had left me a few mattresses that they had “borrowed” from K dorm. No sooner had I set down my pack then the rangers arrived, and I was detained in the parking lot for questioning about “stolen property”. I negotiated for non-responsibility and offered to get them back to the dorms where they came from, the rangers let me slide, but had to call my dad to be assured that I could be a c4 resident for the month of June as a fifteen year old. I never held it against the boys, just another camp 4 moment.

Years later I got to help Max start up Spooner Lake Cross Country, and spent a few years competing with him in Nordic races, including three years of national championships. The dude is the consummate athlete and kicks ass at whatever he does, he almost made the Sarajevo Olympics in biathlon, then had some podium finishes at Mountain Biking Nationals. I would love to hook up with Mark for some good middle age sport climbing!

I remember those mattresses, that was hilarious!
My brother worked for Curry Co. that season and was living across the road at the O-zone. Max and I were walking out of his room and this mattress was laying against the wall. I grabbed one end and Max grabbed the other and we ran straight out the door, across the road and tossed it into a tent. That wasn't the last one we got either!

Fig and I needed a ride to Fresno at season's end. It just so happened that Bob Godfrey had a BMW, if I recall correctly, and was driving Art and Jim to the airport and offered to pile us in as well. One thing lead to another and Jim came to the realization that they were running late. Art and Jim couldn't be more different so while Art just smiled knowingly, Jim began to goad on Godfrey to greater speed and passing exploits. He finally backed off when we went three in two and kept the mirrors! Even Jim didn't enjoy that sort of thrill!

Team Freeclimb made their plane and Fig and I had an epic trip back to Tucson........

Classic post Mark! Many fond memories of you and Max BITD. That large canvas tent that was lined with mattresses was the one that Augie inherited I believe...the infamous "Augwanee Hotel". I still remember when you arrived in the valley with your "tick list" of routes you planned on climbing. I don't think the valley had ever seen such a systematically, well planned siege list, at least not in the 70’s.

Had some great coffee of yours sent to us by mutual friends/family...good stuff! Glad to hear you've still got the stoke!

DD

PS… somewhere I read or were told that you Mt. Bike? Come visit in So. Utah!

Great post:
No BS, for the past two days I have been thinking of these two articles and was considering a request.

TY TY TY

Q?:
My first time in the valley was fall 78.
There was a monster 'fixed' tent that fall,
but I recall it was an olive drab, military style.
Anyone remember that one ?

Of all the books and publications I grew up memorizing there were certain standouts. Most actually were (at the time) current magazine articles. 'Art of the states' and 'State of the art' were right up there.

In 1976 there was a National Geographic cover article, "Half dome, clean in three days" Galen et. al. At that time I was 15 and top roping sea boulders and rappelling out of tress. I thought "Holy cow I would be proud to just get up half dome in a week with a hammer"

Three years later, as my first wall I did the route clean, in three days (just like the Gods on the magazine cover). A year or two later a partner (jaybro it was Rutt) got me to go up there and do it in a day. When were planning our 'attack' I recall the beta at the time. So we "just like Hudon and Jones man" simul'd from the top of the 5th up to Big Sandy, stopping for the bolt ladder after the Robbins.

Where would we be without the demigods to inspire us?
Mark Hudon, Max jones = demigods always were, always will be
(forget everything else look at how they cruised 'the prow' on cathedral ;)

Mark I met you once, in the valley when there was a site full of New Hampshire climbers.
I was introduced to you by 'Base' (Paul Boissenault - sp?)
Do you remember/ hear from him ?

DD, yes, I mt bike a lot. I'll look you up next time I'm down there. I'll just ask Dean for your address. That's a funny connection (a customer of mine at Hood River Coffee Co. is somehow related to someone in Dave's family) isn't it?

I haven't seen Base (Paul Boissonneault) in more than 25 years. I talked to him on the phone a few years ago. He's a big guy now, hard to believe, but I guess he still gets up 5.11 when he puts his mind to it.

Werner, I can't imagine that the Phoenix was an old, not reported aid route before Jardine did it. I never talked to him about it but I'm sure he pinned out the corner.

Whew! just dug in to my apartment through a head high wind vortex cornice on the top step of my stair. Mucho cold powder here in Truckee.

Hey Mark, Diegs, Werner and Steve, greetings!

Yeah, bottom of the Phoenix seemed like blatant selective and planned pin scarring, after that it sure is glorious. Fun to remember those classic climbs back east, the Prow, White-eye, Supercrack, and I vaguely remember Base - nice guy. I just moved and had my hands on the slides of the next ascents of those routes,

Love that artist rendered cover pic! Fashions of the 70's!, some of my slides make it look like Mark and I were pirates on the same ship or the same pirate high school play in my case- kind of embarrassing, though I am not embarrassed that I wanted to emulate the Bridwell or Hudon inspired stone-wear style of the day.

Had dinner with Jim Orey last week! He happened to be at a mutual friends, doing great, retired and super psyched on the fact that he got back into climbing last summer!

Paul is married and lives in Colorado. He hasn't climbed in years. He was more into it only because I was. Peggy and Ellen and I are planning a vacation to Tuolomne this summer but we'll probably stop into Truckee for a day or two, I'll look you up.
I have a photo of you hanging around somewhere that I'll have to dig up. It's a good blackmail shot. You look to be about twelve years old and are standing there holding a beer.

Yeah Mark & Max we my heros also, growing up climbing in CC, NV in 78' they were doing such unbelievable stuff. Even that silly little route at goldilocks, the corner Papa Bear still confuses.11b( Spanks) the Hell out of me. They were an important, but often neglected part of the history leading to modern free climbing( which I still can't do). Anybody want to go do Fantasia or Fear of Flying?( Mortal routes but Fun for us lesser beings)

Maysho just about said it clean it up fool........It's a small planet.....

Great thread! I remember so well the first time I read that article. I couldn't wait to be like those guys......never quite got there.
I also remember thinking of those Half Dome pictures the first time I was up there. I was able to free a lot in the zig zags, but not the whole thing...heh..heh..
$2.00 for Mtn mag! That's the part I miss!
Bruce

Max and Mark were quite the team and anyone who was climbing back then could not help but to be psyched by the standards being set. The Salathe article was the icing on the cake!

Max and Mark put me on my first 5.12 @ Donner in the summer of 82 and without that day of top roping on snowshed wall, i may never have seen what is possible... I was thrashing up 5.10 and wishing i could climb 5.10+ let alone a route like Manic Depression and Monkey Paws...
thanks to the both of you for inspiring so many climbers back in the day....
ks

Mark: That's a funny connection (a customer of mine at Hood River Coffee Co. is somehow related to someone in Dave's family) isn't it? … It’s a small world, huh? I was so stoked when Rosie and Dean mentioned your name and even more so when I saw your photo’s!!! Edward Hudon indeed! (www.markhudonphotography.com) I’d start ordering coffee from you as well but I’m like a crack addict trying to stop the habit.

I’ve so many fond memories of you and Max. Stories too, but here’s a photo of you on an early ascent of Fish crack in full Pirate garb:

Peter: where and what in Southern Utah? Near Zion NP, tons of great riding places. It’s not quite as developed as Moab, but it surely rivals it!

My son Jonnie, who is not a big fan of anything athletic except skateboarding, came up last weekend to visit. He reluctantly agreed to go riding with me and we settled on one of my favorites, Gooseberry Mesa. It’s very technical riding in short sections without a lot of leg burning climbs and spectacular scenery. He was beat from a combo of no sleep and the change in altitude, but really wanted to have some father / son time. About two miles into the ride, he was feeling sort of queasy but insisted that he wanted to press on. With the temps being around 43 degrees, it wasn’t a very hospitable environment for long rests so he settled for very brief ones. I could tell that he was “dog tired” and offered to turn around at several points, but he insisted in pressing onward.

Although Jonnie grew up riding, it was never a favorite activity of his (“all star torture”) and that fact the he was even out with me put me on cloud nine. About 3 miles into the ride, he started “getting it”, making the climbs, drops and just being stoked. As beat as he was, the allure of adventure kept him going way past his point of “hitting the wall” physically. We finished the ride and had a great time driving home and listening to our favorite “road trip” music, Stevie Ray Vaughn “Couldn’t Stand The Weather.”

Later that night, he had a twinkle in his eye when he enthusiastically told mom about the ride. After completely whip’n me at several games of serious Scrabble, we finally ended this dad’s almost dream weekend... The “almost” part was the Scrabble…I’m not like’n being spanked by my boy, but there’s always the next grudge match in store.

I have no idea why or how but I never got to climb with either Max or Mark, despite us being in the Valley, on many of the same routes, at roughly the same time. My loss. I always respected how these guys always went for the hard stuff, even obscure stuff like Mother Earth. More heros . . .

Largo, Wow, thanks. I consider it to my advantage that I was taught to think for myself and not really care what other people thought about what I was doing. Max and I weren't out to make a name for ourselves, we were always amazed that we were doing what we were when we thought that there were other climbers who were much more talented than us around. We always thought "Why aren't these guys doing this stuff"?

I would love to hear about it Mark. You guys got the first repeat I imagine with as little traffic as that one received. The little bits of aid up high was enough to deter most folks.
Which one of you got the infamous "leap or 5.12" pitch?

Yeah well, I'm not really sure who started the can scam and recall
(Randy) that I turned you onto ti it on one of our first mutual trips from Sonora/Turlock to the Valley. I loved to ideas of re-recycling cans (being the good enviros we were) and getting paid for it.

Mark, you and I did some great routes together before you and Max got "hitched" such as Nabisco Wall, Orangutan Arch, 1096, Blotto, and lots of others. You and Base visited us at the folks house in southern Cal and we showed you all a good time at Josh and Tahquitz. I/we also made it to your wedding in Hood River (remember?).

Last time I saw Max, he and I were in a Mountain Bike race together in the early 90's. At the start of the race I looked over at him and said, "Max, we used to climb together, it's Spencer" his response was "are you Mark Hudon"? I just dropped back, Max won the race and I never got to chat with him afterwards. He was certainly quite focused!

We did do the 2nd ascent. I led the leap, but didn't leap and really didn't think it was too hard. We followed the free climbing and jugged only the aid. Max did the leap also.
Max and I had done the Mescalito, Zodiac and had been up on the PO (I dropped a rock on my finger and tore out the nail so we retreated) so aid wasn't foreign to us. We did it in two days with a few pitches fixed.
At one point, Max had some wide ranging, semi sketchy belay set up and I was climbing some pillar, maybe 5.10+, right above him when I thought I saw it move. If it had gone it would have killed us both. I freaked out, I yelled that this sucked and that we were going down and I don't give a F2#%K and we're out of there and all that. Anyway, I calmed down, continued on and we didn't die.
I have some photos but they're out in the garage.

I remember all that, Spencer! Max didn't say that did he? He didn't forget me? We've climbed together since. I've been down to Donner a few times, climbed at Cave Rock with him and he came up to Smith once. I tried to get him interested in a 30 year reunion one day ascent of the Nose but he didn't seem too interested. It's still on my list though.

Very few pictures of Mother Earth ever made it out to press. I bet your slide box is a treasure chest, Mark. How about kicking down a few doubloons for some hungry old pirates! You guys may be amazed to know that the entire route hasn't likely seen another ascent since yours! I never heard of another party doing it while I was keeping track especially once the Little Mother Earth exit traverse became popular as an all free outing.

Here is the complete topo from the Yellow Meyers' guide.

Any other recollections about the climbing up there? Did you guys think that the aid sections would go free in passing through?

I have a memory that Kauk climbed the "leap or 5.12" crux statically, with great difficulty, calling it the "hardest moves that he had done on rock," at the time. Nice job on the send. Did you guys warm up on any of the other Middle Rock testpieces beforehand?

The complete Mother Earth is probably the rarest jewel in the crown of MCR gems as far as repeats. Again, outstanding adventure to bite off back then!