Ok. I have an '00 XJ with a low pinion Dana30 with a lunchbox locker and a ChryCo 8.25 with limited slip. I have already bought a high pinion D30 with 4.10 gears, and am hopefully gonna nab an open Dana44 with 3.88's. (EDIT: just secured the axle, now gotta check calipers and stuff like the ebrake) Not including the regearing of the 3.88's, I'm putting together a list of needs and wants for these axles prior to and after install. So far, I'm looking at:

I'd like to avoid buying lockers with the Super kits (already have a Powertrax for the front and the rear can wait til later on), so I'll have to check with Superior to see if I can order just axles and bearings/seals from them. I'll be gleaning off of Steve's excellent writeup for this type of axle swap, but not sure if there's anything else I need up front. Any ideas? And here's a pic of what I'm getting...

1: New hubs for the D44 (depending on the condition, D30's was replaced yesterday)
The D44 doesn't have unit bearings like the D30. It has bearings and seals which need to be pressed onto each axle shaft.

2: New brake pads for the D44 (D30's replaced yesterday)
If your going disc, you'll need a lot more than pads...

4: Super44 axle shafts, bearings, and seals
See badgers comment...you'll need to replace the 27 spline carrier with a 30 spline carrier to run the Super30 and change the 30 spline carrier out for a (I think) 33 spline carrier to run the Super 44. I would just go with Superior alloy shafts. Alloy USA makes them in stock spline counts as well. Tip - The XJ D44 uses the same shafts as TJ D44's

5: New U-bolts for the 44 (gotta check size)
I'd go 9/16"x 2.75"x 8"

6: Super30 axle shafts. bearings, and seals
See #4

7: Diff cover for D30 (D44 has a chrome blingbling one, may get another)
What happened to your D30 cover? I have both my old diff covers and Warn diff guards. I'll sell you the guards...the covers you can have.

8: A couple bottles of Superior Axle Gear Oil
I made the switch to Amsoil and highly recommend their severe duty fully synthetic gear oil. I can get you a lower price than what's advertised....we'll talk.

BTW, did you ever fix your transfer case? That was a nasty sound it was making._________________97 XJ Sport with a bunch of stuff

Quote:

Never argue with idiots, they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience

1: New hubs for the D44 (depending on the condition, D30's was replaced yesterday)
The D44 doesn't have unit bearings like the D30. It has bearings and seals which need to be pressed onto each axle shaft.

2: New brake pads for the D44 (D30's replaced yesterday)
If your going disc, you'll need a lot more than pads...

i know what your thinking and i was thinking the same thing for a bit there .but going from the picture he posted as well as what he is talking about he jumbled his thoughts together.he is talking about a high pinion 30 and a rear 44_________________One Built XJ

1: Yup, the HP D30 will replace the LP D30 in the front, and the 44 is for the rear. I'll get a shop to press the bearings and seals in as well. (Caught the note about the axle shafts.

Quote:

"...new axle shafts were 0.625" wider than the hubs on the stock shafts, 6.75" vs. 6.125."

I'll check that with the axle shafts I pick up as well.

2: I will be going disc in the back, so what is involved in that build? From your doc it looks like caliper brackets, calipers with ebrakes, pads, and rotors.

3: I'll stick with the Superior alloy axle shafts for now.

4: Got it. 9/16" x 2.75" x 8" u-bolts.

5: Will get only the Superior alloy shafts that match my current D30 shafts for now.

6: It has a normal cover in the front, I meant the guard (although it does look like the D30 is scuffed, probably from a direct hit from a rock). I'll definitely pick up your guards.

7: Awesome on the Amsoil idea. Thanks!!!

As far as the t-case goes... no I haven't jacked it up yet, and I'll be out of town this weekend. I need to make the time to get to that BEFORE Camp Jeep, and I'm pretty sure the new axles won't be ready by then either. BTW, is there a link out there (didn't find anything on Google) for transfer case rebuild (I have the FSM, but I want something that has it from a person's POV)? I may be searching too generally._________________

Last edited by Drake69 on Tue May 22, 2007 10:52 pm; edited 1 time in total

CORRECTION, and I'm gonna really have to review this: The gears in the 44 are 3.54, NOT 3.88. It is 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, but now I don't know what the spline count is (SHOULD be 30, came out of an older XJ). I'll also be looking into a new carrier as well.

if it came out of an xj its 30 spline shafts, i have the 44 rear, and for the bearings for the 44 they do have to be pressed on, had to do that repair myself_________________96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs

im sportin the 3.54s, i need to regear, bad, but i may have found a rubi tcase, 4 to 1 low, mmmm, and I have my other I6 at the machine shop getting built,

I should regear but as of right now first gear in 4 low is pretty much where i want it. Its not super slow but not overly tall, im afraid if i put a 4-1 case in then my first will be too low, and being an auto aw4 thats gonna suck because it will bounce between gears

so I not sure what to do, I will prolly just end up goin 4.10s and leaving it at that, the rubi tcase will need some modifying to make work in my beater

so if you dont mind, a tally on how much you have invested with goin to 4.10s would be awsome so I get an idea on what to expect_________________96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs

The only issue with the AW4 switch is on OBDII computers (97+). When you engage the bypass switch, the check engine light will come on. It won't go out again until you jump through the normal hoops to reset it._________________97 XJ Sport with a bunch of stuff

Quote:

Never argue with idiots, they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience

The only issue with the AW4 switch is on OBDII computers (97+). When you engage the bypass switch, the check engine light will come on. It won't go out again until you jump through the normal hoops to reset it.

if you turn the ignition to the on position(not run) and back to off 16~20 times it will get rid of the check engine light.most car computer can only remember 16~20 key turns_________________One Built XJ

Fox, if you wanted to lock out first and lock in 2nd the wiring diagram is different then in the link. I tried for an hour using the diagram they supplied and it didn't work. I came up with this.

To lock out 2nd and lock in 1st is so simple it takes longer to take off the dash panel then it does to wire the switch! I didn't use lights for either switch, you'll know when they're switched on._________________Underground Jeeps