After spending the better part of the decade working for various fashion labels including Elie Tahari, Tommy Hilfiger, and Kenneth Cole, German designer Ingo Wilts is back for a third stint at Hugo Boss, taking the reins as chief brand director late last year. First up on his agenda, freshening up the company’s classic styles for the modern consumer.

IMAGE COURTESY OF STORES SPECIALISTS INC.

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

BOSS, Hugo Boss’ premium line for men, reflects this direction in its Fall-Winter 2017 collection. As with many fashion houses today, travel plays a big role in the design inspiration, with the show designed for a man “prepared for everything and ready to take on the world.” As expected, the respect for tailoring is a key element in the collection, but a big surprise was the prevalence of silhouettes that brought to mind the fashion from the late ’80s and ’90s. For those too young to remember, that meant clothing that was loose, voluminous, and with generous proportions.

IMAGE COURTESY OF STORES SPECIALISTS INC.

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

It’s a brave step for the label, considering that the slim-cut suit has long been in vogue and shows no signs of going away. To further highlight Wilt’s confidence in designs past, the runway collection was liberally peppered with wide double-breasted suits (the gray pinstripe version would look great in any man’s wardrobe) and high-waisted pleated pants. Balancing the look were a few slimmer designs with shorter cuts.

IMAGE COURTESY OF STORES SPECIALISTS INC.

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

Other highlights included a structured ivory trench coat with military-style epaulets (and a curiously large pocket sewn unconventionally across the chest), loose maritime-inspired turtlenecks, and boxy jackets. The label has also embraced the “athleisure” trend, and showed handsome parkas, zip-up sweaters, and leather jackets. Throughout the collection, there was a nod to seafaring pursuits, with the look of the chunky fastenings, buckles, and other hardware directly inspired by nautical equipment.

“We want to be the most desirable brand in the upper premium segment–nothing more and nothing less.”

It’s an important collection for the brand as it seeks to re-establish itself in an ultra-competitive, highly turbulent global market. In a statement released by the fashion house, Hugo Boss chairman Mark Langer reveals the goal for the coming years: “We want to be the most desirable brand in the upper premium segment–nothing more and nothing less.” City of Dreams Manila, Greenbelt 5, Newport Mall, Rustan’s Shangri-La and Shangri-La Plaza East Wing.