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Good and deviled

Traditional “Deviled” eggs were not part of our diet growing up. As a kid, I first had them at friends’ houses and was fascinated with the spicy filling and association with the “Dark Prince.” To a kid in Catholic school any Satan reference was exotic and dangerous. Now, of course, I realize the “deviling” refers to the flavor profile, not “the glamour of evil.”

Staten Island Advance/ Irving SilversteinDeviled eggs are a go-to comfort food appetizer, but they don't have to be boring.

Still, another childhood favorite was Underwood deviled ham — the can with the friendly devil on the paper label — which was a great spread on toasted white bread. I recently had a can for old times’ sake and found it less delicious than I remember.

For years as a chef and caterer, especially working on projects in the South, “stuffed” or deviled eggs became a go-to comfort food appetizer. We did endless variations with toppings and fillings — caviar, bacon, herbs, you name it. The variety and versatility are endless.

And while they may seem a bit fussy to prepare, the ingredients are inexpensive and guests love them, so they are well worth the effort.

Start with perfectly cooked eggs. Dressing them up takes a little imagination and just bits of things that you may already have, like some herbs to mix in or sprinkle on top, maybe pimento cheese, capers, anchovies, shrimp, a bit of pickle — all are just fine. You might even want to combine some of that deviled ham with the egg mixture. Heck, the Prince of Darkness might take a fancy to that!

I’ve included a reliable way to hard cook and peel the eggs, and a recipe with variations to get you going. I often cut my eggs crosswise, so they stand up nicely, but lengthwise is OK too, especially if you have a Tupperware egg carrier you want to make use of.

HOW TO BOIL EGGS

Ideally, eggs should be at least a week old: The air pocket in the wide part of the egg becomes larger and makes the eggs easier to peel. A very fresh egg has little air and the protective membrane on the inside clings to the shell.

Here’s how to properly boil an egg: Take your nicely aged eggs. Place them gently in the bottom of a pot of cold water. (Some people place a cloth on the inside of the pot to keep the eggs from banging around.) Add a pinch of salt to the water. Bring the water to a boil only for a minute or two. Turn off the heat, cover the pot and let rest. Large eggs cook in about 13 to 14 minutes. Jumbos take 16 to 18 minutes.

Immediately remove from hot water and fill the pot with cold or ice water. Place the eggs back in the pot and let them stand for five minutes.

Remove them from the water and then, one egg at a time, gently crack the shells, starting at the large end. Roll gently between your palms or on a counter to crack a bit all over. Put the eggs back in water for another five minutes or so and the shells should peel away easily.

Store peeled, boiled eggs in the refrigerator under water or in a Ziploc bag to seal out the sulfur smell.

Frank Lombardi is a chef who lives in Silver Lake. He can be reached through the Advance at silvestri@siadvance.com.

Halve the eggs carefully — Lengthwise if you have a fancy devilled egg platter. Or, more simply: Take a thin slice off the wide end of the egg so it will standup. Then cut the egg crosswise about a third from the top. This will give you 6 more generous and stable portions.

Carefully remove the yolks from the whites and drop into a mixing bowl. If you have a ricer or food mill, you will get the lightest texture. Otherwise use a fork to crumble the yolks.

Add 2 tablespoons mayonnaise if using prepared Dijon mustard. Add 4 tablespoons mayonnaise if using the dry mustard. Gently combine with the yolks. Add salt and pepper to taste. The mixture should be creamy, but not too loose. It should be moistened but still hold its shape. Add a bit more mayonnaise if needed.

Spoon or pipe the mixture into the whites. Sprinkle with paprika chopped parsley or herbs before serving. — Judy Lieberman of Mariners Harbor

Variations on an egg theme

If your egg filling is on the thick side, use a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip; for a smoother egg yolk mixture, use a rosette tube to fill the eggs. Filling also can be spooned or quenelled back into the white. Garnish with an ingredient that is informative as to what’s in the filling.Avocado and bacon

Mash ¼ cup ripe avocado and a few drops of lemon juice into 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise. Fold in minced crisp bacon and top with a shard of bacon.

Spiced

Season the basic mixture with chili powder, smoked paprika, and a dash of hot sauce. Garnish with minced cilantro.

Smoked Salmon

Add minced smoked salmon plus a tablespoon of sour cream or cream cheese into the basic mixture. Add a bit of minced onion for extra zip. Top with a tiny curl of smoked salmon. Sprinkle with minced chives.

Top eggs with sour cream or crème fraiche. Tobiko, or fish roe, is cheap and crunchy. But there are lots of great American caviars out there, including good values at Russian markets such as Net Cost in Oakwood. — Judy Lieberman of Mariners Harbor