Breaking news: Envy loses chef

Jim Demers, the talented chef whose creative, supremely tasty cuisine made Envy Lounge a necessary — if surprising — destination for fine dining since the downtown Albany spot opened a year ago, has left the restaurant.

He quit/was fired on Tuesday. “I guess you could say it was a little bit of both,” Demers, right, told me this morning. Otherwise, Demers declined to comment.

Other sources tell me Demers and some if not all staffers sometimes went weeks between being paid, and that some vendors have delivered on a cash-only basis for months. One supplier vented to me about being paid 10 weeks late.

Envy’s principal owner, Tim Rankins, who also owns Pearl Restaurant across the street, denied any delays with payments to staff or purveyors.

Rankins told me this morning that Demers was fired for being difficult to work with, and he cast other aspersions. Demers, when asked for a response to Rankins’ comments, denied causing problems and said, “I’m classy enough and gentlemanly enough not to say anything about Tim. He knows what happened.”

Demers succeeded in creating terrific fare that — on good nights and purely from a food perspective– made dinner at Envy one of the five best meals in Albany. But the place never was the right fit for him. From past conversations with him and Rankins I know Demers came aboard with the belief he had a mandate to make Envy competitive with and a viable alternative to downtown’s biggest dining names. It quickly became clear to me, however, that Rankins was less interested in quality food than in another nightclub.

The menu shrank, to keep down food costs, even as the number of attract-the-partiers theme nights increased. Today, according to Envy’s MySpace page, four out of five nights a week it turns into a club at 10 p.m. Which means the staff starts the transition earlier, dragging tables away, setting up a stage and speakers, and boosting the stereo. As a reader complained in our restaurant database in March:

The worst part about the dinner was that at 10pm sharp they cleared the tables and started blasting music. There was not a soul in the place yet. … We spent more money than any two drinkers would in one night and they had no regard for us.

I’d peg the beginning of the end for Demers as sometime over the summer, when Envy started hosting a series of six bikini contests on Thursday nights. I bemoaned it at the time as “one of the tackiest decisions I’ve ever seen from a place with superb food,” and I know Demers was upset about the decision, too, but he didn’t want to walk out: He felt an allegiance to the loyal customers he’d built — author William Kennedy and his wife, Dana, are big Demers fans — as well as to his young sous chef, Marla Ortega, who is now in charge of the kitchen.

Today, Envy throbs with music Wednesday through Saturday latenights, when it’s competing with Pearl, the Skyline, Pure and the Bayou for throngs of drinking young people.

An establishment can be either a fine restaurant or a sleek, teeming club. It cannot be both. And yet that’s what Envy management has tried to do. The juxtaposition is painful to see. Consider:

From the section of Envy’s MySpace page about what it calls Wild ‘n’ Out Wednesdays (never mind for the moment how lame it is to rip off the title of an MTV show):

And from the menu:

The two personalities never could sucessfully co-exist. My colleague Ruth Fantasia ended her 3½-star February review of Envy with an antiprediction — in other words, a hope-it-doesn’t-happen. Alas, it seems to be coming true:

We just hope this place can remain a fine-dining destination and not devolve into a nightclub where the food is an afterthought — if it’s thought of at all.

39 Responses

This has been painful to watch. I ate at Pearl once, had what I thought were potentially delicious but poorly delivered and prepared appetizers that gave me no reason to go back. Once Envy opened, the food was amazing and inspirational, Jim was fantastic, and it looked like downtown was getting yet another jewel after Prime, Yono’s and now Marche. This slow slide into lowest common denominator of business (Pearl) on Pearl Street hinders the diversification and reputation of downtown. Good luck to Jim, I’ll eat whatever he makes wherever he is. Hopefully it isn’t too far from here. And good luck to Ortega!

A true tragedy! Chef James is one of the very best around – I will follow him wherever he goes – the man is a true artist – a big loss for the Capital Region if he leaves the area. Anyone who is looking for a Great Chef…well, this is your golden opportunity! Grab him before anyone else does. It makes me want to open a classy and unique restaurant – James is creative and a wonderful person.

The comments referred to above were deleted because they should not have been OK’d in the first place due to the nature of their allegations.

I will not allow commenters who use screen names and unverified email addresses to make anonymous, uncorroborated charges about someone else’s behavior. I have invited the commenters to resubmit their comments with their full, real names attached, and I will consider reposting them.

Update: As it turns out, both of the comments used email addresses that, when I tried to verify them, ended up belonging to someone else who knew nothing about the comment attributed to their email address.

I’m a frequent customer of Envy Lounge and many other downtown restaurants. I am disappointed because I feel the original article written by Steve contains uncorrobated, and quite frankly, defamatory accusations. It sounds like personal opinions, not professional. Why would Envy be a “suprising” downtown destination?

Nothing I wrote is “uncorroborated.” I spoke with multiple people who have direct, firsthand knowledge of late payments; that’s corroboration. Because of ongoing relationships with Envy and Pearl, which are under common ownership, these people would not be quoted by name. But I accurately reported what they told me, just as I accurately reported owner Tim Rankins’ denial. Absent polygraphs of all involved or an inspection of their audited books, which isn’t going to happen, readers are left to weigh the evidence presented and decide for themselves which side they believe.

As for opinions, yes, there are plenty in the piece, and they’re obvious to spot. It’s a blog, and my opinions make regular appearances. But I also report news; the second through fifth paragraphs of the post are straight news reporting.

This is no surprise. The beginning of the end was the “bikini contest” after fine dining hours. Jim is a great chef that happened to work with the wrong owners. I’m sure he’ll land on his feet. As earlier predicted, look for Envy to close at years end.

STEVE: I’ve always respected your blog and its support of the restaurant and food industry in the Capital District. It now seems to have lost its intended focus. It’s obvious you hold a grug against Envy Lounge and its owner(this isn’t the first attack article on the restaurant i’ve seen on this blog). Your article seemed catty and spiteful and it hurts your journalistic integrity.

Don’t worry Steve, “Dee Dee” is obviously a personal friend of the restaurant and doesn’t like the objective views given concerning its lack of legitimacy in the dining circle. Hey DeeDee, let me know when Prime 677 has their next bikini contest. Or when Yono’s hosts their next “hip-hop” night.

Truth be told, ownership at Envy, and Pearl, are notorious for bouncing payroll checks. From their chefs down to their waitstaff. It was nice to see Jim take the high road, but when the checks don’t clear, it’s time to move on.

james is an amazing chef. i will give him that. envy lounge was not the right place for him, nor was it the right place for me. i find it humorous and ultimately ironic that jim was fired for looking around for new employment, as i was fired by jim the very same day i gave him 2 weeks notice. i was the sous chef or lead line cook at envy for over a year. now i wish nothing bad for jim. im sure he will find something that will not limit his creativity and passion for food. hopefully it will also be a bigger place with a staff that can handle his tyrannical ego.

In response to the comment where Jim Demers is referred to as having a “tyrannical ego” the person who wrote that is seriously disillusioned. First of all anyone who knows Elliot or Envy knows that his was not the sous chef or lead line cook. He was more like a glorified prep cook. He should have nothing bad to say about Jim. Jim taught him 90% of what he knows. Jim he has a big heart and would do anything for his staff or his friends. At times he is very intense but that is only because of his passion for food.

its sad that jim’s gone, because he made some amazing food. the restaurant is really going to be nothing without him. the head chef now can’t even make a decent dessert, so i dont see much hope for envy

It was never meant to be a restaurant. It was an end around by the owners so he could fool the city into thinking that he wanted to open a “fine dining” restaurant. City officials should feel duped for allowing this to happen. Get a REAL dining person in there, not a group that lives off underage girls frequenting their places.

wow… marla. harsh words. glorified prep cook? ouch. you are obviously still very loyal. to the comment about him teaching me 90% of what i know: is that really true? like i said the man is an awesome chef and of course he taught me things. but attending culinary school and my previous 10 years in the restaurant industry are only 10% of my accumulated knowledge? in reards to jim being “intense”: how many times did you run out of that kitchen crying hysterically? anything for his staff? fire them for giving notice… for the third time?

steve sorry to make your blog into a 4th grade playground but i had to stand up for myself here.

My husband and I ate there for a special evening out over the summer. We got all dressed up and even booked a cab. We spent the entire evening eating in an almost completely empty restaurant while watching guys in the bar wearing shorts and sneakers watch a baseball game and drink buds. This wasn’t really the ambiance we were looking for on a special evening out and at those prices.

We ordered a half bottle of champagne only to be told that they were out of it. They were also out of the next bottle we tried. Finally, they were gracious enough to bring us a full bottle and only charge us for a half. At the end of the meal, I ordered a muscat specially listed on the main menu, and guess what, they were out of it!

Towards the end of our meal a rather imposing looking man, who turned out to be the bouncer started prowling around and the place generally began to look more and more like the nightclub it was about to turn into; as it turns out, they had a salsa night going that evening. As a previous poster said, I didn’t pay all that money for a menu just to feel shuffled out at the end to make room for a load of 21 year olds ready to salsa the night away.

The shame of it is that the food was unbelievable. Definitely one of the best meals I’ve ever had in the Capital District. Chef Jim came out to talk to us at one point, and as we raved about his food my husband swears that Chef Jim had tears in his eyes. Our take on it was that he really was touched that his food was appreciated as opposed to being ordered as bar snacks by drunk, partying kids which is what seemed to be happening as we were leaving.

I’m not at all surprised at the recent turn of events, in fact I predicted something like this. I only hope that Chef Jim turns up soon at a restaurant that puts his superb cooking front and center rather than merely an also-ran.

After reading all the dribble, whats the real story? Its probably a mix of the two. Its unfortunate that both sides made the wrong decision joining forces. Sometimes business decisions have to be made whether right or wrong. The capital region still isn’t ready for top notch cuisine. None of the innovative restaurants or chefs can stay put any amount of time. Things are hot for a year or 2. The support group(customer) is shrinking, and for many reasons I’m sure.I think its to bad this story got out of hand. Maybe it will help Chef,one hell of an advertisement for help wanted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey number 3 step up to the Plate, its playoff time.

Just want to say that I’ve dined at Envy numerous times & Jim’s meals are great, but if he can’t fill the place up with him menu, I don’t blame the owner for doing what he has to so he can pay the bills. In the end it’s a business & it’s there to make money. So if a bikini contest or salsa night brings in more money than Jim’s food what does that say???

The food at evvy is quite over-rated. Nothing special…In fact I’ve had to send things back there all the time. Its not the place to eat with all the loud annoying music. There are far better places around…Choose wisely

If they wanted to make a dance club, they could have opened a dance club. fine dining/hip hop dancing do NOT go together. If you have 400 drunken long island frat boys throwing beer bottles and peeing in the sinks at 3 in the morning, how is it going to be fine dining for lunch the next day?

Regardless of what Steve or the posters say, I think it’s very possible to be a top quality restaurant and a trendy nightspot at the same time…unless this establishment is in Albany, New York.

No promoter in their right mind would bring the idea of a bikini contest to Envy, it’s a slap in the face and downright embarassing. If you want to be a restaurant first and nightclubs second, the nightclub has to cater to the exact same crowd as your restaurant does…or it will fail, and fail miserably.

The food at Envy was amazing when I ate there, the bar is one of the best in the area and the staff was wonderful…but just like every other “club” downtown, they try to be everything to everyone and it has never and WILL NEVER work…not in this town.

I love the food and atmosphere at Envy Lounge. I was fairly familiar with all the staff until recently, and I must say that, at times, Jim could be very overwhelming. The statement about late paychecks is true, but that is not Jim’s fault. He is an outstanding chef, and I wish him well in any business endeavors he may come across.
Also, Elliot has made some of the best food I have ever eaten in my life. I have known Elliot for many years, and wish to argue his point on the topic of the “90%” knowledge he gained from Jim. His first real experience was working at Carmine’s, and then moving on to culinary school. I wish the best for Elliot in any other restaurant he pursues, and I hope Envy can grow and mold to a business that fits to Albany’s downtown district.

To number 22: My comment may be a little late but someone has to set the record straight. I have eaten many a dessert at envy lounge…whether under the new chef or under jim;and the desserts were always unbelieveably decadent and beautifully presented. Heres a word to the wise…the desserts are made now, and have always been made,by the current chef; Marla Ortega. And chances are Missy, if you ate there enough and liked the food, marla’s probably cooked for you more than once.

to follow up with my comment – i have eaten at Envy numerous times- one experience included my chocolate something tasting like cheap chocolate- which sat in the window too long- so the espresso whipped cream arrived at the table watery- or the fact that they think its ok include something like a rice crispy treat as a suitable dessert in a so-called fine dining establishment- i would think in a so-called fine dining restaurant these things would not be happening- and also beyond just the dessert- most recently when i ate at Envy- i sat at the bar with a local downtown chef- and we ordered multiple courses as well as some nice wine- the every so nice bartender served our wine with water in plastic cups- so a word to the wise to you my dear- there is no way you can call yourself fine dining because the food and the service are far from it

You are right I am not fine dining…I am not the restaraunt.But I’ve been there enough to know the food;and the chef. If you wanted better service you might have started with sitting at a table and not the bar; then you at least have a waitor and an actual dining experience. I find it hard to believe you had your water served in a plastic cup…I dined there with my entire family and the waitstaff went out of their way to accomodate us. Nothing was served in a plastic cup until I requested one for my son. That’s not their style. Clearly Envy is not for you…move on to somewhere else…