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The invitation was an empty envelope with the word ILLUSION embossed in gold on the back, and NUMERO 20 on the front. It was indeed an anniversary for Kris Van Assche, as it marked his twentieth show and, in turn, ten years in the business.

He chose to celebrate by continuing his signature explorations of the hybrid garment. Nothing was quite what it seemed, and new forms arose from his illusory gameplay. First, jeans collided with suiting, with cotton printed to resemble snow washed denim, and suit trousers slit to the knee, mimicking classic jean distressing.

Then he tackled the MA1 classic bomber, lengthening it through the back like a parka, creating a whole new hybrid form. It was the classic MA1 too that lent itself to the color palette, with the khaki and orange becoming the focus colors of the collection. Knitwear, too, played with expectations, and the Fair Isle was exploded and knitted in sheer yarn through bold striped sweaters, and monochrome forms.

The music was, as always, banging, with a great remix of Depeche Mode’s Master and Servant. Kris was in good humor after the show, reveling in familiar territory. The collection was a fine distillation of the codes he’s set out.

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