With a range colder plug on a 75 shot you should be fine. The main thing is to make sure the fuel system is up to par with a good aftermarket pump and regulator. Going lean is your biggest concern and make sure you are running the right jets and pressure. Also insure your tune pulls some timing out on top. That will help make it safer as well.

As long as the engine is in good condition and you take care in how you handle it, it should run well and not be a problem. Beat on it continuously and it will break. I have had much success with mine over the past 10 years.

easiest thing to remember about running nitrous as I have done it on various vehicles from a V6 tbird (89 model) to a 2000 crown vic police interceptor to an 02 windstar and a 90 lincoln town car.... if it starts to do unusual stuff, shut it off IMMEDIATELY.... if you are on a run down the track and you hear or feel a slight stumble, its not everything saying "get off the gas and jump right back into it again!!" something caused that stumble so finish out your run on a coast out. Better to lose a race and still have an engine than to keep in it and have a collection of scrap metal. The 2000 crown vic had a 100 shot on it with everything bone stock and untouched except newer coil on plug units from an 02 gt mustang. It ran a 9.90 1/8th mile black tracking the tires all the way to the 400 ft area.

Pull your plugs and check them out under a magnifying glass. if you see mild pitting then you are going a bit lean and need to change the pump strainer in the tank and the fuel filter, but since you are already in there, go ahead and get you a 255lph pump and install it. they are less than 100 on ebay motors. now, dont think cause you got a new pump you have a new engine... proceed very cautiously and what I always recommend you do is get a collection of different jets for nitrous.

Bad part is that to get every sice they make and have 2 of them on hand would cost you almost 1900 bucks. Granted you may never run the same sized pills on both nitrous and fuel, but hey, you never know what can or will happen in the world of racing...

One last thing, GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE INSTALLED on your fuel rail SCHRADER valve location, as soon as possible. The reason I say this is simple... you can RUN TEST your fuel system by taking your nitrous fogger and removing it from your intake tract, and (leaving the bottle off of course) run your engine at about 3000 rpms and hit the nitrous button and see where your fuel pressure sits at... have the fogger held by a buddy pointing into a milk jug or a gas can. it should stay above 34 psi. also, the reason for having the nitrous fogger pointing in the jug is that the jet in the fogger provides resistance that the line itself does not, so you will get a more accurate pressure gauge reading while doing it.

Something else, I ran a 220 shot on a 90 lincoln town car with 160K miles on it and only went one stage colder plugs, but I also bought double platinum autolites... never had a tune and never ran anything but the stock fuel pump. it was still in the car when it went to the crusher. I may have been blessed by the racing gods, but that 4400 pound car went into the 8 second zone (1/8th mile) with my 330 pound big butt driving it.

Point is this, be careful and check everything over. if it is all within parameters, check it all again to make sure... then go race and beat on some ricers..

last thing is this, nitrous is addicting, VERY ADDICTING... so be very careful and never have the bottle hooked up when driving around, plus dont ever bypass the safety valve in the bottle. have fun and enjoy the laughing gas

last thing is this, nitrous is addicting, VERY ADDICTING... so be very careful and never have the bottle hooked up when driving around, plus dont ever bypass the safety valve in the bottle. have fun and enjoy the laughing gas

I never got to run my nitrous, I bought a Trunk monkey from the ghetto and he tried to huff all my nitrous, it took me a few days to find and he smelled terrible. Next time I will just buy an automatic bottle opener.
Alan

I never got to run my nitrous, I bought a Trunk monkey from the ghetto and he tried to huff all my nitrous, it took me a few days to find and he smelled terrible. Next time I will just buy an automatic bottle opener.
Alan

Don't listen to 1MTNCAT either Nitrous is why his car is "Under Construction 2009-2010" in his signature.

Actually, he's right. Don't beat on it continuously, set it up right and don't go crazy with it and you should be fine.

Ron,

You had just better hope it doesn't happen to get back together before August or you might eat those words LOL!! Of course its not going to so you are in luck!

Look how long it had run on the bottle! That wasn't the only problem either. Twice I had a JBA header crack and no doubt that didn't help the valves in the car. I was having issues with it when Jerry tuned it in Richmond 2007?. Guess it had started then and we know what it was now. Whatever the case, it'll be down at least till next year sometime.

Rob, You had yours up here in August one year if I remember correctly. It ain't Rockingham, and ain't spring or fall. I think you know that LOL!!

Bring yours up. We'll see what she has up here in the heat & humidity at Mason Dixon!

I know you've been working on them & ya know ya want to!! Besides, I'd like to see you here.

The only cars to have run 12.0's or quicker here in August at SB is my Cougar 12.0, Chris Vining's built SC, with meth injection/nitrous @ 11.98, and of course Mike Siska's. His has run low 11's - high 10's in the August heat.

I'm going to be real curious to see what Trunk Monkeys car can pull up here in similiar conditions to what mine ran in.

well the only thing stopping me from 10s is traction its done 10s here babying it on the start, so it would do easy low 11s i can assure but its to far a drive and the car has changed quite alot since then, it only ran .2-.3 slower up there not much difference