Welcome to HVAC-Talk.com, a non-DIY site and the ultimate Source for HVAC Information & Knowledge Sharing for the industry professional! Here you can join over 150,000 HVAC Professionals & enthusiasts from around the world discussing all things related to HVAC/R. You are currently viewing as a NON-REGISTERED guest which gives you limited access to view discussions

To gain full access to our forums you must register; for a free account. As a registered Guest you will be able to:

Participate in over 40 different forums and search/browse from nearly 3 million posts.

On water cooled machines, the first thing I look at when they don't harvest is the water regulating valve. Often especially in hard water areas, the valve seat will clog with minerals and not seat all the way. It is essential that water flow stop during harvest to allow heating of gas. A sure fire way of testing is to valve off water flow to condenser during harvest. If it drops valved off but doesn't when valve is open, you need a new water regulating valve.

Another question on this issue. If the valve is bad, is there a way I can isolate the refrigerant in the system so I can change it without evacuating the whole system?

You can change the water discharge valve without recovering the refrigerant. I feel as I should mention, however, that if you suspect that the system is overcharged, you need to ensure that you have a correct charge. Then you adjust the water discharge valve. If you ensure that you have proper charge and correct water out pressure and continue to have the unit tripping on high discharge pressure, your next step is to clean the scale off the water side of the condensor.

I know that I can shut the water off and replace the water
Pressure valve but what about the pressure side of it, the cap tube, that is brazed into the high side of the system? Are you saying unscrew the pressure spring(cap tube) then install the new valve without the pressure spring(cap tube) and screw the existing one to the water pressure valve?

I know that I can shut the water off and replace the water
Pressure valve but what about the pressure side of it, the cap tube, that is brazed into the high side of the system? Are you saying unscrew the pressure spring(cap tube) then install the new valve without the pressure spring(cap tube) and screw the existing one to the water pressure valve?

Perhaps I missed where you mentioned why you need to open up the freon side.

Have you worked on water cooled before. Does the amount of water passing through seem low normal high? Could be just dirty if the flow is high or low
Weighed in charge is highly recommended or simply weigh it out to see

Yes I have. The discharge pressure is too high. There's too much water flow and no matter what I do to the valve it won't adjust. There is a ball valve on the inlet that I have valved almost off to decrease the pressure. I mean I can leave it that way but I'm not into cobbing things. Want to fix it properly.