Meatless Monday: Black-eyed peas and greens for luck and money

Black-eyed peas can be prepared in a way that's good for you. (Courtesy photo)

My mom used to dose us with black-eyed peas on New Year's Day, much as earlier generations forced a spoonful of cod liver oil down their children's gullets.

Although she wouldn't have acknowledged it, she did seem to believe that the peas, should be taken prophylactically amid football and baked ham -- just in case any legume-given luck was needed during the year.

I found out later that other southern families also included greens for money. We never did this, which is perhaps why we remained so solidly middle class. Now, I find myself making black-eyed peas, well, just in case. However, by the time New Year's rolls around I've had about enough of rich, fatty food. So I prepare the peas in a better-for-us way.

A few years ago, I found a recipe in a Greek cookbook for a black-eyed pea salad made with lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and chopped tomatoes, which is delicious and fresh-tasting after weeks of luxuriant eating. I also make the black-eyed pea dip with vinaigrette and hot peppers, known variously as Texas or Missisippi caviar, into a salad and serves it over baby kale and arugula. Add brown rice and you have Hoppin' John salad.

The leftovers I take for lunch all week, giving me a healthy start in January. If you want something hot, take a look around. Black-eyed peas, which are believed to have been domesticated in West Africa, also show up in Indian cooking as fritters and curries. They play nice with Tex-Mex flavors, too, just about any recipe in which something beany is desired. Here is an Associated Press recipe from Sara Moulton for falafel made with black-eyed peas. Unlike the preparation method common in chick pea falafel, they are not deep-fried.

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Whatever preparation you choose, black-eyed peas are high in fiber and protein. And, these qualities -- especially if you ditch the Southern-style addition of ham -- may be the true good fortune in eating them. A diet with plenty of peas and their like is a good example of making your own luck. Add kale or other greens, and eat them frequently -- and your money may come in the form of lower health care costs. And being low on the food chain, they are also a blessing to the planet.

Have a happy and healthy New Year.

Black-Eyed Pea Falafel with Spicy Aioli Sauce

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion (1 small onion)

11/2 teaspoons minced garlic, divided

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

151/2-ounce can black-eyed peas

1 large egg

2 tablespoons well-stirred tahini

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup low-fat mayonnaise

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste

3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs

Chopped scallions, to garnish

Directions: In a medium skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onion, reduce the heat to moderately low, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until it has softened. Add 1 teaspoon of the garlic, the cumin, coriander and the cayenne. Cook for 1 minute, then transfer to a medium bowl.

Drain and rinse the black eyed peas. Pulse them in the food processor fitted with the chopping blade just until they are coarsely chopped. Remove 1/2 cup of the chopped black-eyes peas and add to the onion mixture.

To the remaining black-eyed peas in the processor, add the egg, tahini and salt. Process until very finely ground, then stir them into the onion mixture. Cover and chill for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the spicy aioli.

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, remaining 1/2 teaspoon of garlic and the hot sauce. Set aside.

Once the black-eyed pea mixture has chilled, shape it into 18 patties (the mixture will be loose). Spread out the panko in a pie plate lined with waxed paper or parchment paper, then one at a time dip the patties into it to coat on all sides, lifting the paper on both sides to move them around. Shake off any excess.

In a large non-resistant skillet over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil until hot. Working in batches, add the falafel patties and cook until crisp and golden on one side. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and turn the patties; cook for 3 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

To serve, arrange the falafel patties on a platter and top each with aioli and a sprinkle of scallion.

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