Just recently ordered this and LOVE! Green Tea EGCG truly is one of the most fantastic skincare actives out there. Very difficult to find good quality product (90%) and even harder to actually solubilize it! Love that it comes in pre-dissolved solution. I enjoy adding it at 1% (so 11% sol) to my serum formulations containing Niacinamide 5% + NAG 3%. Excellent for oily acne prone skin.
*Only gripe... because the Pre-Dissolved Solution is SO heavy in propanediol (10 parts Propanediol for 1 part E.. ...»

Im 45 years old; average looking skin for my age. Applied a small pea sized amount of Sea Kelp Bioferment to my face full strength in the am after washing my face of previous night makeup.; let face "dry". Then aplied my foundation as always. Noticed my thick, heavy foundation applied more easily and smooth. Keep in mind this is DAY TWO of me using this. TWO women at work ( separate departments) commented how wonderful my face looked! One specifically came up to me and asked what I was.. ...»

Carla, Many medications can be and are applied topically by prescription. With that in mind, realize that this particular ingredient is wonderful but understand that this is indeed one of those that may create sensitivity with those already using topical hormones or just use sparingly and see how you respond. Sorry for the very late response..... ...»

Many thanks for the Silicone DM. This product is lovely quality; it is light, silky, and leaves no residue at all.
I use it in the base recipe for a mouldable polymer that I then use to make a simulated 'Amber' for bead making.
At the end of this process I have a silky, translucent polymer plus the most gorgeous hands in the studio !
My thanks again, Helen.. ...»

All customers PLEASE read:

Canadian Customers:

Any long delivery delays are caused by The Canada Border Services Agency.
I now ONLY offer EMS as a shipping option to Canada.
This appears to have resolved most of the delays caused by The Canada Border Services Agency.

Please write your correct address:

We take NO responsibility for delivery issues caused by customers entering the wrong address in the checkout page

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What we sell

We sell COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS, which are meant to be used at an appropriate percentage in a cosmetic formulation of your devising. Please do not order our products unless you know how to formulate creams and lotions with it!

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exfoliating

Exfoliating in skin care

Skin is an omnipotent barrier between the human body and the outer world. The largest organ of the human body, skin covers the entire body surface and is responsible for several vital functions: protection (chemical & physical), sensation, thermoregulation, excretion and storage. Skin structures protect not only the outer body but also the internal organs through a specific tissue called epithelia. The skin major layers are epidermis – the external layer mainly composed out of keratinocytes that produce keratin and melanocytes that produce melanin – the skin pigment, dermis – mainly composed of fibroblasts, collagen and elastin acting as connective tissue and the skin supporting tissue called hypodermis – a fat cells and blood vessel base. Epidermis, the outermost skin layer, plays the most important role in the barrier function, acting against physical and chemical aggressions, and keratinocytes (90% out of the epidermis composition) are the main actors [1][2][3].

Keratinocytes are vital players in maintaining the barrier function against various environmental factors such as UVR, pathogens, chemicals, parasites and other environmental aggressors. To successfully exercise all their function keratinocytes develop – via keratin production – a hard cellular wall that creates a physical protection shield against any invasion (stratum corneum, SC). Furthermore, once the shield is penetrated keratinocytes trigger a pre-inflammatory response and alerts the immune function. In order to successfully perform all their function and meet their responsibilities keratinocytes are constantly renewed by migration and differentiation of stem cells located in the basal (deep) epidermis. When a skin cell dies (apoptotic phase) it sheds from the skin surface in a process called desquamation and a new cell is already taking its spot. In humans, the complete keratinocytes turnover cycle takes about 40-50 days so in translation, every 40 days or so our skin’s outer layer is completely renewed [4][5].

Usually keratinocytes shedding, exfoliation or desquamation is a natural process that should take place without intervention. However, due to various environmental and intrinsic factors the fine balance of this process gets lost and the renewal rate and implicitly the barrier function are affected. Usually the phenomenon takes place in the most exposed body parts – face, neck, shoulders and back. Dead skin cell accumulation modifies the appearance of the natural, healthy skin into a dry, flaky, scale-like surface. To prevent this, from the oldest times, man turned to cosmetic procedures called exfoliations meant to remove apoptotic keratinocytes and make room for the new, freshly differentiated ones that migrate from the basal layer.

Exfoliation can be done mechanically – by topically scrubbing the area with an abrasive substance or chemically – and by using active ingredients that promotes and support the natural desquamation. Mechanical exfoliation is not suitable for sensitive or problematic skin, where its effects can be harmful and inflammatory. Commercial Chemical exfoliation products are usually aggressive and although they perform their task – removing the dead skin cells – they also leave behind an excessively dry surface that in time can lead to sebum imbalance and acne. However, through the means of DIY cosmetic a perfectly tailored exfoliating solution can be attained, one that will take care of all the skin particularities. Due to its active properties, the chemical exfoliate or peel performs beyond restoring the skin barrier. It also maintains healthy pores, eliminates blackheads, alleviates hyperpigmentation and acne scarring and last but not least it rejuvenates by reducing fine lines and wrinkles [6].

The chemically active ingredients are gentle, natural acids that work on removing the dry, inactive skin superficial layer without harming the epidermis.

Allantoin, a naturally occurring molecule both in animals and plants, is the final product of the nitrogen metabolism. Its acidity combined with the keratolytic activity (fight against abnormal keratinocytes proliferation) makes it a perfect exfoliating agent. When topically applied, allantoin exerts a mild aggression that will only involved the dead skin cells, aiding the desquamation process and helping the new cells migration and conserve the skin barrier. Even more, due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties mixtures containing allantoin also prevent against bacterial aggression and implicitly acne development [7].

Carnitine (L-carnitine, CA) is an active substance involved in cellular metabolism of glucose, fat and related compounds primarily used in cosmetic for its glycation inhibitor properties. L-carnitine is not only a mild yet potent chemical peel but also an effective sebum regulator and a cell proliferation promoter, helping the skin renewal process. This makes CA an excellent ingredient in topical chemical exfoliating mixtures, with multiple great benefits for the treated skin, especially in the diabetics, immuno-suppressed or other immune impaired conditions [8].

Creatine is an important substance synthesized in the human body, end vital in the energy metabolism, more precisely in energy regulation and flow. It is also an extensively used active for cosmetic treatments due to its high compatibility and excellent skin penetration, being associated with cell proliferation and migration, sebaceous gland regulation and wound healing support. Creatine’s more stable form, creatine pyruvate is an effective exfoliating agent, boosting natural kerationcytes shedding without being aggressive to the newly formed layer. Due to its multiple active actions it’s beneficial especially for sensitive, acne-prone and photodamaged skin [9].

Lactic Acid, the most potent of the alpha hydroxyl acids is another natural active extensively used in dermatology. Its acid ph as well as its other skin beneficial properties makes it a great candidate for DIY chemical peels. Topically use of lactic acid efficiently exfoliates the epidermal cells in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratus corneum (SC). Rough, scaled, tern and dull skin of the epidermis is peeled off and renewal of the SC is stimulated to refresh with a new layer of new keratin producing cells. Clinical studies have shown that lactic acid treatment can stimulate synthesis of lipids and ceramides in the skin which reinforce the skin resulting in more hydrated, supple, and bright skin [10].

Pumpkin bioferment is a potent enzyme exfoliating agent which aids the natural skin desquamation while nourishing the epidermis. Enzyme peels are superior to acid peels because they don’t modify the skin Ph, hence are even less aggressive than the acidic peels. The pumpkin peel has multiple positive effects on the treated skin: it stimulate cell dissemination and migration and implicitly boosts the skin renewal process, it cleans pores and eliminates blackheads and moisturizes the skin layers [11].

Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) - a botanical active extracted from the seeds white willow bark - and the white willow bark extract (salicin) are famous for its benefits for the whole human body, from the omnipotent aspirin to topical salicin mixtures - efficient anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and also great in regulating sebum production and maintaining clean, healthy pores. Both compounds are suitable for topical treatments for exfoliating, with positive impact on skin. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and it mixes well with oily, greasy substances being excellent in exfoliating and moisturizing mixtures. This characteristic allows it to penetrate deep into pores and eliminate sebum blockages. This prevents the formation of blackheads, blemishes caused by dirt and oil becoming trapped under the skin. Because of its lipid solubility, salicylic acid is particularly useful for oily skin. As a natural source of salicylic acid, salicin extracted from the white willow bark is a natural and gentle exfoliation option for acne treatments that will cause no irritation [12][13].

Mild and gentle chemical exfoliation, especially for the face and acne-prone areas should be a part of a regular routine. Using the appropriate delivery vehicle – preferably moisturizing base creams and the best available active ingredients should improve the overall aspect of the skin. However, since most of the peels are acid it is important to start refining the best DIY exfoliating cream or gel from recommended recipes and then gradually modify quantities and add actives, in order to avoid any overdosing (improbable, with very mild second effects such as temporary irritations, redness). Concluding, the best chemical peels are the ones that use top quality actives, delivered by top quality base products in a custom solution, perfect for each skin.

Allantoin is a natural product of nitrogen metabolism in several plants and most mammals. It has been used in numerous cosmetics products for a significant period of time and is proven safe for various human applications. Its greatest benefits are promotion of wound healing, including reduced scar formation after various procedures (ranging from surgical scars to tattoo removal). To this purpose, allantoin can be used preventively as well as on already formed scars. Furthermore, it is an effective antimicrobial substance, used in alcohol-free hand sanitizers. Allantoin-containing solutions have been used in treating various infections, primarily onychomycosis (nail fungus) and trichomoniasis. Its anti-inflammatory properties made it useful in dermatitis treatment. Generally, allantoin is combined with extracts of onion or other plants, but its effectiveness was also demonstrated while applying without supplements.

Key benefits of Allantoin in skin care:

Carnitine is a naturally occurring substance, necessary for fat and glucose metabolism in human body cells. Primary function of carnitine in pharmacy is the reduction of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs are proteins, damaged by reactions with sugars, therefore glycation is most prominent in diabetes patients. It also occurs in many other diseases, as well as natural ageing processes. Dermal carnitine applications reduce the level of glycated collagen and promote synthesis of new protein. Since it is involved in lipid metabolism, carnitine is used for acne treatment. It effectively reduces sebum secretion and skin oiliness. Carnitine preparations also improve other aspects of the skin, such as tonicity, and reduce cellulite. Finally, it aids skin regeneration after damage, such as burns, and promotes blood vessel formation. Regretably, due to Candian law and PayPal regulations, this product may NOT be shipped to Canada.

Creatine is a molecule synthesized naturally in the human body. It is most important in tissues where energy-requiring activities occur, as it is involved in maintaining constant energy flow inside the cell. It was show to protect skin from degeneration during ageing: creatine activates collagen synthesis, in this way decreasing the amount of wrinkles, and restoring skin firmness, smoothness and elasticity. Cheek sagging can also be reduced by applying creatine-containing cream. Another important benefit of creatine is UV damage protection, as it helps to protect cellular structures (especially mitochondria) from oxidative stress and mutations. Furthermore, creatine-treated skin was shown to regenerate faster. However, to protect creatine itself, pairing with coenzyme Q10 or other antioxidants is advised.

Alpha hydroxyl acids [AHAs] such as lactic acid have been used traditionally to improve the feel and complexion of the skin. While glycolic acid has been the conventional AHA used in skin care products, lactic acid has ranked even with or outperformed lactic acid in every category and is the only AHA to maintain such success over the course of twenty-two weeks. Lactic acid is a known exfoliant which can slough off dull skin to leave a brighter complexion. It can also increase the synthesis of lipids and ceramides, thereby fortifying the skin barrier function and reducing water loss. Further, lactic acid is correlated to increased hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis, resulting in skin that is more hydrated, softer and firmer, and with fewer fine lines and wrinkles. Topical application of lactic acid also can reduce the synthesis of melanin and decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentation or age spots. Incorporation of lactic acid in skin care products can lighten and brighten skin while improving dermal health and reducing the appearance of photoaging.

Our Pumpkin Bioferment is a natural, gentle enzyme "peel" that you can use straight from the bottle or add to any lotion or cream. Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) proteases hydrolyze the proteins, exfoliating dead skin cells and impurities while delivering vitamins and nutrients to the skin. The Pumpkin Enzyme Peel leaves the skin cleansed and silky smooth. Pumpkin proteases and nutrients are released from fresh pumpkin cells by the action of the same organism that transforms milk into yoghurt.

Salicylic acid is a hydroxyl acid compound originally derived from willow tree bark. It has many useful effects on skin, the most prominent being its use as an anti-acne treatment. It penetrates deep into pores, removing trapped oil that can cause blemishes. Salicylic acid is a keratolytic compound, meaning it exfoliates the skin and sloughs off dead skin cells, leaving smooth skin. This makes it useful for treating scaly skin, as well as calluses and warts. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Salicylic acid has been shown to influence photodamage by reducing hyperpigmentation and providing protection against UV exposure.

NEW: We are excited to announce that we now also sell a WATER-SOLUBLE salicylic acid powder (assay 50%)!
Build effective Salicylic Acid formulations free from alcohol, discoloration, and recrystallization. WATER SOLUBLE salicylic acid increases water solubility of Salicylic Acid from 0.2% to 5%, and results in a pH of about 4. No need for organic solvents.

For higher strength formulations we also have Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) as a pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.

White willow bark extract has been used by many cultures to reduce pain and inflammation. It contains salicin, a natural form of salicylic acid known to have anti-inflammatory effects. Salicin can reduce signs of aging by reducing the appearance of pores, wrinkles, and pigmentation. It also softens and moisturizes the skin. Salicin contributes to white willow bark extract’s exfoliating and acne-reducing power. White willow bark extract also contains polyphenols that contribute anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. These can help protect against sun damage and premature aging when used with sunscreen. White willow bark extract is a natural alternative to salicylic acid that has additional properties to enhance skin health.

NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell White Willow bark extract as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.

DISCLAIMER

All our products are powders, liquids, flakes or gels, used for making your own skin care products.

All our products are cosmetic / technical grade only.

We do NOT sell pharmaceuticals, prescription drugs or nutritional supplements.

Any statements about our products have not been evaluated by the FDA.

Our active skin care ingredients are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease

SHIPPING

Canadian Customers:

Any long delivery delays are caused by The Canada Border Services Agency.
I now ONLY offer EMS as a shipping option to Canada.
This appears to have resolved most of the delays caused by The Canada Border Services Agency.

Please write your correct address:

We take NO responsibility for delivery issues caused by customers entering the wrong address in the checkout page