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ETNA — Tiny towns are dotted across the volcanic ranges of Siskiyou County, at the northernmost end of California. They’re tucked into valleys, nestled next to forests and farms, and populated by a mixture of wilderness lovers, ranchers, artists and people hoping to recapture the California that once was — the one without traffic jams, potholes and sky-high rent.

Siskiyou offers wide-open spaces, glorious views and a slower pace of life, crowned by a mystical mountain and dotted with Alpine lakes. And its winding backroads are so perfectly paved, the half-dozen Bay Area guests at our Etna B&B could not stop talking tarmac, being the pothole-plagued people that we are.

The day before, we’d ignored Waze — the navigation app has a penchant for Highway 5 — and gone backcountry through the beautiful Scott Valley on a two-lane road, which turned out to be a staggeringly lovely drive. The sinuous and smooth — oh so smooth — road curved past forests, rose over peaks and descended into valleys where lush pastures and meadows beckoned.

A final curve brought us to Etna. With a population of just over 700, Etna may not be a bustling metropolis, but it has restaurants, inns and its own distillery. Originally known as Rough and Ready — California has at least three of those — this Gold Rush town was renamed in 1874 with a nod to Sicily’s famous volcano.

Locals describe Scott Valley as a land of cowboys and hikers. They’re right. Ranch land abounds. And Pacific Crest Trail hikers hitch rides down to town from the trail on whatever lumber trucks or delivery vans happen to rumble by the rendezvous point. Many of those hikers are headed for Alderbrook Manor, where innkeepers Dave and Vicki Harrison run a charming bed-and-breakfast in the main house and a bright red hikers hut in the garden, with bunk beds, hot showers, laundry and mail delivery service for Pacific Crest hikers.

There’s a nanobrewery two blocks away, too, where brewmaster Bill Behm and his wife, Debbie, opened their Paystreak Brewing taproom two years ago.

On this particular evening, the Paystreak taps are tapped out, but the Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale is still flowing, a nice match for the menu of burgers and crispy onion rings at this casual, bare-bones hangout that draws locals and hikers. As for the brewery’s name, pay streak is a gold mining term — and it’s for real. The Behms funded their venture from the region’s rivers via sluice box, sweat and glimmers of gold.

Just across the street, the Denny Bar Co. is housed in a 19th-century brick building that once served as a mercantile for Gold Rush-era miners and settlers. These days, it’s a distillery with its own line of vodka and gin — the bourbon will be ready for sipping in 2021. Meanwhile, the Denny Bar Co. bistro, which opened in late 2017, offers gourmet pizzas topped with asparagus, bacon and goat cheese, for example, or Moroccan chicken, spinach and apricots, along with salads, burgers and steaks.

At the other end of town stands Dotty’s, a colorful little diner that serves up delicious burgers, made with locally-sourced beef and topped with Dot’s sauce. Jon Klous bought this adorable spot in January and has refashioned it into a family-friendly, retro hamburger and ice cream stand.

And while you’re in town, don’t miss the breads and buns made by local baker Erik Ryberg, who moonlights as Etna’s mayor. You can buy his baguettes, sprouted-grain loaves, challah and croissants at the Etna farmers market on Saturdays — and at his new Grain Street Bakery.

Just follow that perfectly paved road.

If You Go

Alderbrook Manor: This B&B offers rooms in the 19th-century main house, and a bright-red European style hikers cabin as shared lodging for Pacific Crest Trail hikers. Rooms start at $120 and include breakfast. The hikers cabin is $35 per bunk. Find the B&B at 836 Sawyers Bar Road in Etna, www.alderbrookmanor.com.

Jackie Burrell is the editor and senior writer for the Mercury News and East Bay Times' Eat Drink Play section, which explores the West Coast's food, wine, cocktail and travel scene each week. An award-winning writer, Burrell joined the Bay Area News Group staff in 2000.

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