Dyno tuned my '06 650L

R1-xr650-400

Ok, well, I bought an '06 XR-650L so I could ride it to Costa Rica solo. Well, I did that, and I got back, and decided it was time for some go-fast parts.

I have a friend with a DRZ-400, and we go up into the mountains around here locally, and do trail riding, and whatnot. Every once in a while, when we pull up at a stoplight at the same time, we'll get a little 0-80mph race going. I mean I know my bike is a fat assed porky pig and all, but he hangs onto me WAY too well. Maybe it doesn't help that I weigh about 190lbs, and he weighs 150, but I would think that my extra 250cc's would do me some good.

So, I got it dyno tuned the other day, so the A/F ratio was perfect all the way to 9,000rpm (the apparent redline)...and it only made 38 horse power or something at the wheel. I know it has a bit more torque, and I didn't get a torque curve displayed, because that cost extra, but even with my mods, my buddy on his (edit: STOCK) DRZ still holds onto me. Is it because of all the extra weight? My bike only has like 7000miles on it, and it runs like a champ, so, what the f00k?

It's not poor riding either, because while I admit I lack a lot of skill offroad, I can wring out every last bit of power on the street. Even with my filter, rejet, exhaust, tune, and 1tooth down in the front, I only pull on my buddy's DRZ by about 2 bike lengths to 80mph. This is not acceptable!

R1-xr650-400

well, since the theoretical "top speed" on the dyno (without drag from actually moving) was 125mph, and the bike topped out with me on it, at around 102-105mph, I figured I'd go a tooth down in front, and try and get more bottom end, since I wasn't using that extra top speed anyway.

I know that going up in the rear, and down in the front gives more bottom end grunt, but what I'm saying is, I have enough crap on my bike, that it should beat a DRZ with nothing but a white brother E2 exhaust, right?

I also wanted to know if anyone has dyno'd their 650L's, and can tell me how much power they netted...because I was expecting at least 40whp with mods, but that didn't happen.

R1-xr650-400

I already have a 2005 R1 and I've seen 190mph (indicated) time and time again, but thanks for the suggestion

I know it's not a dragster, (I never claimed it was) but why the hell is a DRZ-400 holding onto me? Just because I race a little on the street, on the way to the trail riding, doesn't mean that I think the bike is a friggin dragster. You could just read my speculation, and at least give me an answer on that part. Is it weight? Is it normal to get 38hp out of a modified, tuned 650L? Is there something WRONG with my bike? Is the DRZ-400 just on a more level playing field, acceleration wise, than I thought?

No offense to the people who are taking time to reply to my thread, because I appreciate it, but can you like...try answering my questions, instead of informing me that my dual sport bike that I purchased to ride to Costa Rica, apparently isn't a dragster If I thought my XR-650L was a dragster, I don't think I would be intelligent enough to know how to sign up for this board, let alone, actually ride the motorcycle

LandSharkGT

Well maybe if there was some info on the DZR-400, I assume it to is not stock and has plenty of mods done to it. All I know in the 90's my ZX600 would keep right up with the 750's and 900's but not the liter bikes.JMHO!
Bill

Bear on a bicycle

R1-xr650-400

I'm not "hating on" the DRZ, so don't get defensive, but I really thought even with the extra weight, that the 650 would be on a more level playing field, acceleration wise, even if it ISN'T an R model.

And no, the DRZ has nothing done to it but exhaust...even when we were both stock, it was the same thing. I'd pull, maybe 2 bikes on him. Since I got my go fast parts, he went out and bought the same exhaust as me, just to piss me off (not really), so we're still even.

I just didn't think that it would keep up so well. And yes, I am using every last OUNCE of power that my 650L has to offer (on the street, I still need some trail practice)

rlbranson

You got to realize that there is more than just inches involved. The 400 is a lot newer design, dool over head cams, higher compression and water cooling so as to not lose power from getting so hot.
I had a xr400 that got a lot more power from cleaning up the excess welds inside the header pipe. Maybe the 650 would benefit from this. I had a xr650L with a high comp piston and that is not the way to go. Runs so hot that it is overheating on a cool day. I would look into the exhaust welds and then go with a K&N filter and if that is not enough then look into a hotter cam. Good luck and keep us posted.

InternalCombustion

You could just read my speculation, and at least give me an answer on that part. Is it weight? Is it normal to get 38hp out of a modified, tuned 650L?

Amen, Bro. On the other hand, Heck-fire, its Friday night and here we are reading and posting about motor-sickles, for the love of Pete. That's gotta say someting about our mental state...

Anyway, on-post: Seems to me that 38 rear-wheel horsepower out of 650 cc's is wrong. My wife's got a crf230 (which is also a 2-valve engine, like the 650L) and uncorked I think its worth about 19-20 RWHP. Ex-trap-o-la-tin, that would suggest a 2-valve, properly-tuned 650cc should give you in the vicinity of at least 40-43 RWHP, allowing for a lower redline.

Soooo, seems like a well-tuned, fully uncorked 650L should give a bit higher RWHP number than 38. In any case, you are right: getting a can of whup-ass opened up on you by a DRZ-400 just don't seem natural.

But then again, I can't speak intelligently about the L, except for knowing it is a competent, respectable bike.

wheelnut46

Um... Hate to state the obvious but your "L" isnt all that trick. While I'm sure that your handlebars, headlight, rear rack and skid plate are real nice and all they sure aren't doing anything for performance. Your riding a stock bike with a pipe. Rejetting, smog removed, "race" filter, pipe - all standard stuff. These things are considered essentials around here.
You're riding a big, heavy air cooled bike. A DRZ is a lighter, liquid cooled bike. It's more high performance than ours. The L is a tractor. That said, it really is a heck of "do it all" bike.
Don't get me wrong - I'm not ragging on you or your bike. I have one too and I love it. I just bought a smog block off kit here on TT, and some Moose CR high bends, Ken Seanmirrors and I plan on the 14 tooth countersprocket and 4.7 Clarke tank for Christmas.

R1-xr650-400

Amen, Bro. On the other hand, Heck-fire, its Friday night and here we are reading and posting about motor-sickles, for the love of Pete. That's gotta say someting about our mental state...

Anyway, on-post: Seems to me that 38 rear-wheel horsepower out of 650 cc's is wrong. My wife's got a crf230 (which is also a 2-valve engine, like the 650L) and uncorked I think its worth about 19-20 RWHP. Ex-trap-o-la-tin, that would suggest a 2-valve, properly-tuned 650cc should give you in the vicinity of at least 40-43 RWHP, allowing for a lower redline.

Soooo, seems like a well-tuned, fully uncorked 650L should give a bit higher RWHP number than 38. In any case, you are right: getting a can of whup-ass opened up on you by a DRZ-400 just don't seem natural.

But then again, I can't speak intelligently about the L, except for knowing it is a competent, respectable bike.

See, that's what I don't understand. This bike is "new", fully serviced by friends of mine at the dealer, professionally dyno tuned by my friend (head service manager at the dealership), while I was standing right there. According to the A/F ratios, and ALL the sensor crap they hookup to a bike when they're tuning, everything was spot on. My A/F ratio was spot on, in the green from idle, all the way to redline, compression was perfect, NO signs of leaks, or anything of that nature. So...due to the serious lack of dyno tuning proof (which I aided in, by not requesting a printout after we tuned it) for dual sport bikes, I have to assume this is normal...unless I got some kind of lemon, but it doesn't ride like a lemon.

And yes, I am aware of the liquid cooled design, and the fact that it's engine is a lot more recent, but still, I guess the old muscle car guy slogan "There's no replacement for displacement." doesn't hold true to thumpers .

There weird thing (and yes, I know it's likely due to the torque difference), is that his 400 feels fairly slower than my 650L...like, more so than the 1-3 bikes I pull on him to about 70-80. Guess my "butt dyno" is just off again.

R1-xr650-400

Um... Hate to state the obvious but your "L" isnt all that trick. While I'm sure that your handlebars, headlight, rear rack and skid plate are real nice and all they sure aren't doing anything for performance. Your riding a stock bike with a pipe. Rejetting, smog removed, "race" filter, pipe - all standard stuff. These things are considered essentials around here. You're riding a big, heavy air cooled bike. A DRZ is a lighter, liquid cooled bike. It's more high performance than ours. The L is a tractor. That said, it really is a heck of "do it all" bike.Don't get me wrong - I'm not ragging on you or your bike. I have one too and I love it. I just bought a smog block off kit here on TT, and some Moose CR high bends, Ken Seanmirrors and I plan on the 14 tooth countersprocket and 4.7 Clarke tank for Christmas.

Don't read any further into my statements than just the words. I wasn't listing off all those parts to brag about how "uber" my bike is, or how I have it all tricked out. The REASON I listed all the parts, was because my secondary contention, and MAIN question was; is it weight related? I listed everything to give you an idea of what weight has been taken off, and what has been put on. So please don't make it seem like I'm trying to act high and mighty about my bike, I'm well aware that it ain't the fastest thing on 2 wheels, and that's not what I had in mind while buying it. I'm simply trying to extract all the performance that I can out of it, for the least dollar, while still keeping all my functional, non go-fast parts (ie: rear rack, clarke 4.7, etc).

I am also (in a non egotistical manner) just trying to figure out why it is that my friend's DRZ is faster. If I have any illusions about what a 650L's performance should be, then I want those cleared up. I ask only questions, and provide background info to help the accuracy of my answers. I'm getting the general feeling that people are reacting to my specific power figures as relatively low...so, that's why I'm here, not to get into a debate about how "tricked out" my bike is.

R1-xr650-400

Ferdinand

Don't read any further into my statements than just the words. So please don't make it seem like I'm trying to act high and mighty about my bike, I'm well aware that it ain't the fastest thing on 2 wheels, and that's not what I had in mind while buying it. I am also (in a non egotistical manner) just trying to figure out why it is that my friend's DRZ is faster.

Good, in that case try switching bikes with your buddy and race and see if it really is the bike (no offense) just a thought:excuseme:

rebelventurer

The XR650L is actually a four valve engine a rfvc head design, single overhead camshaft. Have you replaced the exhaust header? A pumper carb in lieu of the stock cv carb shows gains of 5-6 hp across the rpm range.
I also have 04 xr650l a friend has the 06 drz400sm totally stock and we have done similar runs and l pull him by 10-14 bikes every time. my bike still has the stock carb with a dynojet kit, K&N filter, smog removed and blocked off, FMF header and powercore4 can, my gearing is 14-48 I run dunlop 606's 130/100/18 & 90/90/21 I am going to add either the edelbrock pumper or keihin 41 fcr carb soon. currently has 9900 miles on odo.
In another 5k miles will add 2mm overbore 10:1 piston, ss valves, kibblewhite springs, and a hotcams stage 1. will clean up the ports that will be it for mods on the bike. I have not dynoed my bike but would like to have a before and after the top end replacement number to see my gains.
If the DRZ400 makes 38 horses it must have a higher compressin ratio, and that is where his big gain on you is, your L has an 8.3 to 1 ratio, if his is 9.5 to 1, it makes things even If the drz has a pumper carb, where you are cv once again makes the playing field more even, water cooling same thing. try doing the same test on just warmed up motors, you may have a little more edge because you havent started dropping power yet. I have raced a crf 450 on a dirt road and the crf pulls me for the first 50 feet or so then my L catches and pulls away from the crf (stock).