Designers Salute Independent Spirit Of Women For Fall

RAYNER

For several seasons designers have worked to simplify fashion, emphasizing the beauty of fabric and silhouette.

For fall `94, American designers offer clothes that salute the independent spirit of women.

During designers' recent weeklong showings, the nation's fashion press got the word that the pendulum of fashion has reversed the excesses of the '80s to swing toward the diminution and deconstruction of the '90s, and that this autumn's trends are somewhere in between.

They're calling it "the return of the woman." She's confident, expressive, vital. She colors her lips again. Her waist is defined again. She wears high heels once more.

Throughout the week, we saw long legs, stiletto heels, short skirts (there's nothing left to the imagination), a mixture of textures, sweeping shawls, short jackets, lots of mohair and angora (the yarn of the season); also, thigh-high stockings with just about an inch of flesh between the top of the stocking and hemline of the skirt, shrunken sweaters and vests, return of plaids, faux furs like cheetah (sometimes used as a trim), black with touches of color and long coats.

All this came to life in Bryant Park, where two huge tents were set up for the 7th on Sixth presentation. All collections were shown in either of two huge tents -- The Josephine or The Gertrude -- as well as several rooms in the adjoining New York Public Library.

Creation of 7th on Sixth, grouping many major shows in one area, charged a dose of adrenaline into the fashion industry. Started in November, more and more designers are showing their collections in the tent, rather than in hotels or showrooms as in previous years.

Although shows were running late (many were overbooked with not even standing room), most went off without snags. A pressroom was set up where fashion reporters could fax, phone, write, watch video shows of collections they might have missed, and exchange fashion views.

If there's one area of consistency among the designers and their fall collections, it's that they all showed short hemlines -- if they can be called that. The question of the week among the fashion press was: "Who's going to wear it?"

In an interview with Geoffrey Beene, he said, "You don't have to accept what they're showing on the runway, or even write about it unless it has validity."

Admittedly, designers will ship garments with lower hemlines. But how can one ignore the short, short hemline trend?

Pants continue to be a force in fall fashion. If there's one color that stands out, it's brown, although the palette also features cheerful colors like mint green, ice blue, orange and red.

The collections were fresh and innovative. Some were just sheer fun. Among outstanding designs were those by Bill Blass, who has a way with classics, but also with swingy coats in a bright mix of colors like fuchsia over blue with accompanying dresses or skirts, and a blue and raspberry asymmetric coat with blue and raspberry jersey and wool dress.

Oscar de la Renta's wool coats are tailored and feminine in long and short lengths. His evening clothes are a mix of tones and textures. The quilted paisley jackets are accented with a surprise of faux leopard or cheetah spots.

Stephen Stolman took his inspiration from Mary Tyler Moore whom, he said, he considers the all-American woman: "She struck the perfect balance between homecoming queen and fledgling feminist, and she did it with great style."

His dresses are perfectly accessorized with crocodile handbags and faux fur or cashmere flannel berets. He favors a monochromatic leg and shoe, set off by a square vamped pump with sculptured heel.

Adrienne Vittadina, noted for her knit creations, outdid herself for fall as she led off with great mohairs, tartans, leathers, fake furs, skinny pants and pea coats. Randy Kemper showed greatcoats, jackets and separates, giving his clothes fancy Hollywood names like Theda Bara and Gloria Swanson.

A real fun show started off the week with a dash of Africa. Bryon Lars' models pranced down the runway to the beat of drums. They wore crocodile boots with bamboo heels, African bead necklaces and corn-rowed hair, while carrying giant mask handbags.

His tribal-influenced collection certainly can be described as very colorful, and is like that of no other designer. He put a strapless flannel dress under a brocade vest with looped fringes, long jackets with flared backs and a coat dress with side-draped skirt. There to applaud him was his mother, Gloria Lars, who came in from Richmond, Calif., for the occasion. "He's been designing clothes since he was a young boy," she stated proudly.