Freddy wrote:WooooHooooo! Congrats on a great job! You're sure going to enjoy that. It'll take a year or two to learn to ignore it. To answer rberg's question, yes, it has an auger the whole length of that tube. Speaking of which, I trust you have an extra shear pin? Every 15 or 20 years one shears & you have no heat until a new one is put in. I've read factory ones work best!

First one should never need to replace a shear pin as long as you are not burning stone in it or any coal bigger then buckwheat size and if one should break you can use soft brass or copper pin or wire Aluminum nail But Not steel nails until one can get a correct shear pin they are design to break at 2.5 to 3 foot lbs of toque.

I did raise the high limit this morning, but it didn't matter since the boiler usually doesn't hit 180 on a call for heat. Keep in mind that I am heating 3500 sq. ft of old house that gets blasted with wind. It was -22 this morning, and 5 teeth seems to be pretty close to what the radiation needs to hold 70 degrees inside during that kind of weather.

So let me get this straight your running 5 teeth 4.5 air and your heating 3500 sq ft. Does the boiler run continously? How much coal are you estimating you will burn in a winter and what do you have your maintenance cycle set at?

I am running pex tubing, and right now my high and low are at 160 180. Could i run the high low at at 170-200?

Can you raise the air to 6 without going positive on the overfire draft? I'm running 4 teeth feed, 6 on the air, aquastat at 170° low/200° high, 10° diff., baro breaking at -.05" WC, burning buck. I found out the temperature gauge is 10° off, I measured a sample of the boiler water with a mercury lab thermometer. It runs around 175° all the time, never below 170° or above 180°.

The boiler ran continuously yesterday and last night, but now that the temperature is "up to" 0 degrees it is running much less. I don't really know how much coal I will burn since I just started the boiler. 7-8 tons is my best guess.

I have run the boiler at ten teeth and 9 air, it still pulled a draft at the firedoor. It has a nicely pitched 8" pipe hooked to a 30' chimney with a 9x13" flue.

I've found that i will get a back draft through the air intake of the oil gun when i push the air up to high. I am planning on extending the chimney another 2 ft come spring, but till then it's a no go.

Right, i'm hoping to adjust the hi low tomorrow sometime.

I'm going to insulate the boiler in the upcoming week or so, any suggestions of what to use for insulation?

CoalBurner5 wrote:I've found that i will get a back draft through the air intake of the oil gun when i push the air up to high. I am planning on extending the chimney another 2 ft come spring, but till then it's a no go.

Right, i'm hoping to adjust the hi low tomorrow sometime.

I'm going to insulate the boiler in the upcoming week or so, any suggestions of what to use for insulation?

Do you have the cap on the oil gun. It's supposed to be there when not using the oil gun to protect the oil gun and to stop the,,,,,,,,, backdrafts.

I'm assuming when you say cap you mean the guard that slides down with the pull of the black lever. A metal plate the slides down in the firebox to protect it during coal usage. Yes i have that down when the coal is fired. I just for some reason get a little bit of a back draft when it has been idle for awhile. I'm not worried about that, i imagine that is due to the pipe cooling off and needing to reheat.

My main question is what works best for insulating the boiler under the jacket?