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Piotr Schab 8c first ascent onsight at Cuenca and Biographie at Céüse

One of Poland’s strongest young climbers Piotr Schab has redpointed the 9a+ Biographie at Ceuse in France and made the onsight first ascent of Baby Boy, an 8c sports climb at Cuenca in Spain.

Piotr Schab, the climber at the forefront of Poland’s impressively strong next generation, is currently enjoying an unprecedented run for his money in France and Spain. In April the 21-year-old from Kraków redpointed the 9a+ Catxasa at Santa Linya, and backed this up in mid-June with Chris Sharma’s classic testpiece Biographie at Céüse. Schab had got painfully close last summer, having fallen a mere two moves below the top jug and although to many the redpoint seemed a mere formality, clipping the chains of this historic king line can never be taken for granted.

While this brings Schab’s tally of 9a+ to 4 after his 2017 ascent of Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, Norway and Papichulo at Oliana in 2016, his latest feat is arguably even more impressive: the first ascent, onsight, of Baby Boy at one of Spain’s oldest and most fearsome climbing areas, Cuenca.

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19.07.2001Chris Sharma climbs Biographie at Ceuse!American Chris Sharma links the first and second section of Biographie at Ceuse in France, widely considered one of the hardest projects in the world, calling it Realization.

20.09.2001Chris Sharma, the energy of Biographie at CeuseThree years of trying, walking up to the crag, putting on climbing shoes, lighting incense, chalking up and setting off for the next attempt. Chris Sharma has now realised his dream called Biographie - Realization.