Fascinating food in New York and occasionally farther afield

Devin's Fish & Chips

Closed by fire in April 2014, Devin's finally reopened in the summer of 2017. The decorative tiles, which greet you at the doorway, were undamaged; inside, a few steps down from street level, the long, narrow dining area looks much as you might remember it. (If a counter furnished with stools, beside a mirrored wall, isn't your scene, the benches in nearby Donnellan Square offer a fair-weather alternative, but you'll have to provide your own tunes.)

And the namesake menu item — presumably whiting, since catfish, flounder, porgy, and even tilapia incur a surcharge — is as filling as ever. Fish and chips ($7.50).