Hi Everyone,
Just a quick note to say that I've just purchased a zero mile DB9S from Amore Moto! It's been sat in the showroom for a year or more,and is showing signs of a few niggles for having been sat for so long!
I've joined the forum to hopefully join in the fun/frustration of Bimota ownership,and look forward to swapping a few top tips!
First off.....my speedo.....even though it says it's reading in mph,it's clearly not! I've contacted Zoso who manufacture the odometer and have been told how to switch between kph and mph,which I've done a few times,but the mileage seems to be double what I'm doing when I'm out riding! Not being too mechanically minded,I presume the speed of the gearbox is where the odometer gets its readings from,but is there any way that it maybe picking up double the signal on each rotation,so that the mileage/speed is twice what it should be?
Any help would be massively appreciated!
Cheers for now!

Hi there Richtea, welcome to the brotherhood.
Sorry I can shed no light on your speedo problem, I'm happily living in the pre-electronic age with my DB2
But you will find on the forum plenty of insanely loyal Bimota owners who are more than happy to help. That's been my experience. I hope you have many good times with your bike.
Kit

Hi...and welcome to the Forum....and Bimota ownership........Koso speedo....Hhmmm.........You should find that the pick-up is on the RHS of the bike on the rear brake caliper hanging plate....a small tubular insert with a grey cable end and black plastic cable leading from it.....it picks up on the number of bolts fixed to the rear brake disc....such bolts should be High tensile steel and NOT stainless steel...as the pick-up is a set of 3 magnets attracted to the steel bolts...and wouldnt attract to SS bolts.

The Koso clocks should have in (put your reading glasses on) an indicator for mph of kms in small lcd writing that pops up to tell you what its in....if you have problems and its in Kms then I can help also........Is the speedo erratic though in reading when riding? as in flicking up and down in speeds even if riding at a constant speed?.....the speedo sensor is often set incorrectly...in that it has a small grub screw holding it in place in the caliper hanging plate...this loosens and tightens it...and it should be around 4mm away from the face of the disc bolts....use an allen key to gap the distance.....I've had 3 where the reading was erratic due to the sensor being set at the wrong distance....test your disc bolts with a magnet to see if they are SS or plain steel...if a magnet wont stick to them then you have wrong bolts inserted.......

Firstly,
Thank you,both 2bims and Kit,for the welcome!
I'm away from home at the mo,but later this week I should get a chance to do a proper 'test ride' and try to work out all that you've suggested.
Will let you know how I get on.....
Thanks again

Hi 2bims,
A massive thank you comes your way,with regards to the speedo!
Having spent today out on it,it has given me a chance to do a proper test ride and alter a few things!
I repositioned the speed sensor to 4mm,but to no avail....the speed readout at a constant throttle and road speed was up and down like the proverbial!
Having reset it again to 3mm (my measuring may not have been that accurate!) it works a treat!...so a huge thanks for nailing that frustration on the head!
Am fine tuning the suspension,and am now getting pretty close...just need a correct fitting c-spanner for the rear spring pre-load adjustment to soften it up a bit.Next job....tidy up the back end to get rid of the 'Harley' plate hanger,and find/manufacture a decent exhaust bracket in replacement for the rear footpeg.Any suggestions?
Cheers

Glad you sorted the speedo....it seems that nowadays whoever builds the bike no longer test rides them like they used to....quite common for the gap to be set incorrectly on bikes with the koso clocks...had it a few times....just keep an eye on the tiny grub screw that it doesnt come loose...first sign would be if the speedo becomes irratic again........Another on her, Gavin944999 or somesuch has modded the rear end on his DB9, zorst etc...search for his name and you'll see his posts and then his bike...nice bloke....most northern character...but now resides Darn South as they say

Last edited by 2bims on Wed Sep 21, 2016 8:59 pm; edited 1 time in total

Oh....after 1,000kms....approx 650 miles the koso clocks should have a "red spanner" light that will illiuminate...and remain on.....no worries...its a service interval pre-set into the clocks meaning Oil and filter change is due after running in....not pre-determined by the ECU...its just thats what the koso clocks do......pop back on here when it does and we'll tell you how to reset it...easy job though......Try not to get the clocks wet...no direct hoses or wet sponges on them...they are prone to letting water inside the casing and that can blow the backlight on the LCD readout, steaming inside etc.....easy enough to pop the clocks off....4 screws and one small connecter block...and you can run a line of seal around the gap in the 2 halves of the casing....thought it best to warn you...

Thanks for the top tips.
Rear shock is an extreme..red Spring type. I realise these bikes are set up on the rather hard side,which doesn't bother me,it's just a case of getting it finely tuned to my delicate old posterior!!
Will get to grips on sealing the Koso dashboard then!
Thanks again....will contact you on the arrival of the spanner symbol!
Cheers for now

I am assuming that the red springed Extreme Tech rear shock also has a gold anodised locking ring at the top with a sequence of holes around its circumference????

If so...one of them has a locking grub screw in it....this needs to be untightened...(cant recall if its allen head or cross head...perhaps a torch will help) and then using preferable a suitable sized screwdriver...or two...one either side...you can then unwind the locking ring to adjust the preload...then evidently retighten the locking grub screw thats inside one of holes.....just pushing an allen key inside to test depth on each hole will show you which one has the locking grub screw in it as it will be shallower than the other holes....I find the screwdrivers with reverse ends on each end fit perfectly in the other holes to aid turning...hence no "wrench" needed....did you not get an owners manual with the bike?

If ever a company logo should include a box of frogs it should be Bimota's.

There is a lock screw as mentioned by 2Bims on the Extreme shock preload and depending on your weight you may want to set both rebound and
compression adjustments from 3.5 turns out from fully in....thereafter things tend to get better and easier to adjust.
The standard DB9 spring is weighted for a total ride of 19 stone in english and really needs to be a bit softer
if your not there or there abouts beaing in mind 40lbs of clothing and luggage and any pillion if any.

I changed the spring on mine then changed the shock...warrenty issues but all is good now...a spring in my step so to speak.

One of the craziest rides ever.....enjoy.......cant stop laughing ever time I am out

Any help needed just ask...they have a few little issues..ho hum

regards
Gavin_________________On an Island in the River Thames (sounds wonderfull...doesn't it)

Thanks again 2bims,and also Gavin for the help.
I did get an owners manual with the bike.....but it's a little sparce on the information front shall I say!!!
Will have a go at the rear shock over the next few days,and see if I can finely tune it!
Have just purchased,and installed rizoma mirrors,which I have to say,do look the dogs' ...and actually work...but am still pondering about tidying up the rear end.
Gavin,I think you might have had a solution for yours....would you mind letting me know how and what you've done please?
Many thanks
Rich

Richtea. .........I came up with 2 options, both of which, moved the rear number plate and tail lights up to the rear of the seat. It will require breaking into the Bimota wiring loom and all that comes from that

The first option involved a CNC machined bracket coming off the rear alloy subframe holding the light number palte and indicators and kept the OEM DB9 complete seat assembly.

It was extremely well machined and anodised BLACK
...there is a picture online somewhere at the Italian border loaded up with luggage and a hairdrier.

The final version was way too difficult and really should onlly be attempted of you are tired of life. It involved grafting on the complete rear end of a DB11.
...brackets, undertray, lights, expensive Carbon hangers and then machining/modifying the DB9 subframe to suit

I made it even more difficult for myself, by only using OEM Bimota supplied parts....shortly after this, I took up self harming....it was cheaper!

I visit friends in Chesterfied 2 or 3 times a year and you could inspect the changes on one of my visits north...or whatever.

The alluminim bracket thing would be you best option....it is in a post somewhere on this site...and the changes are miniscle and not noticed when removed

Anyway I hope that this helps scratch an itch....it did to a point for me.

Gavin_________________On an Island in the River Thames (sounds wonderfull...doesn't it)

Thanks again Gavin.
Just played with the rear Spring on the suspension,and will hopefully get out today to see if it's improved the ride!
Rear Spring compression set for 19 stone total riding weight???? Didn't know the Italians were that heavy....too much pasta methinks! Seems a bit rediculous as a base setting on a naked streetfighter type bike..but hey!
Will peruse your photos with regard to the tail tidy!
I've visited a composite firm near me,in order to get an idea of manufacturing an exhaust hanger bracket and possible seat cowl out of carbon fibre. They said they'd be willing to do it....however,the cost would come in at £ 1300 for the pair! (Including moulds,maunufacturing and lacquering!)...... Got slightly put off that idea then! Have you changed the exhaust bracket on yours? If so,how did you go about it?
Cheers. Rich

Methinks Gavin is just expressing his experiences with his ExtremeTech shock unit...Bimota fitted various models/versions to certain DB5/DB6 and DB7 bikes as well as Tesi and DB9.......but if you bought an "R" model they changed to Ohlins units which are certainly easier to work with in that each click seems to make a difference...and the Ohlins springs have an in-built "sag" the moment you sit on the bike and are much more compliant when riding.....Certainly the ExtremeTech rear springs seem to be more track orientated and not made for bumps in the road...giving you a bucking bronco feel on the rear end........I rode a DB7 with the same extreme tech rear unit as the DB9....and along the M61 it bucked so much on bumps that it would throw your arse off the seat...and feet off the pegs...Slowed to 50-60...and it was still the same ...quite disturbing...Although I didnt really play with the settings too much I did think it was indeed extreme on its factory standard setting.....give it a play but best first to back everything fully back and start from there...as if at that setting you still think it hard...then maybe think of alternatives...

It does seem that generally its the shock thats at fault....in not giving rebound as its oversprung...hence Gav's 19st assertion.....few other threads on the net of folk having similar issues on other bikes after fitting extreme tec stuff