Overview

Tibrogargan is one of a group of trachyte plugs known collectively as the Glasshouse Mountains. It’s confronting east face is a scowling visage which features in the aboriginal dreamtime legend concerning the formation of the mountains. According to the legend, Tibrogargan is the angry father of the mountain family facing away from the rest of the group after after striking his son (Mt Coonowrin) for failing to assist the pregnant mother Mt Beerwah during an ancient flood.

Tibrogargan (“Tibro” to the locals) has around 40 named routes and countless variations on most of these. The easiest route is a tourist scramble up the less confronting west side, whilst the most difficult posted route known as “DV8” rates on the Australian (Ewbank) system as a Grade 27 (US 5.12c).

On weekends the tourist route can get quite busy with probably a couple of dozen people summiting per day. In addition, almost any fine weekend sees several climbers on the various technical routes.

Getting There

The Glasshouse Mountain group is located in south east Queensland, just 66km north of Brisbane. From Brisbane, frequent electric train services, shuttle and bus services operate from the city and airport . The nearest railway station to Tibrogargan is Beerburrum (about 4km). To drive, take the Gateway Motorway north from the airport or the Gympie Arterial Road from the city. These roads converge to form the Bruce Highway (Hwy 1). Take the Beerburrum/Glasshouse Mtns Tourist Route exit. Stay on this road for about 7km and Tibrogargan comes unmistakably into view just north of the turnoff into the village of Beerburrum. There is a tourist information office (handy for free maps) just after which is a turnoff signposted “Forestry nursery.” For the East face, take this exit and continue under the railway bridge and then take a left turn signposted “Tibrogargan” follow the short sandy track past two more signs to the carpark.The new circuit track enables you to circumnavigate the entire mountain (about a 4km walk). With access to most climbs easily accessible from this track. Quicker access by car to the west face tourist route is available by continuing past the “Forestry Nursery” turnoff for another Kilometre or so and then simply following the “Mt Tibrogargan” signs.

Red Tape

Camping is not permitted in the immediate vicinity of the mountain.

Retrobolting is very heavily frowned upon and will bring you into conflict with local climbers who are otherwise very friendly.

Take heed of fire danger warnings.

When To Climb

Climbing is available all year round. The area is sub tropical and receives most of it’s rainfall in summer. The trachyte rock becomes very slippery in most places when wet. On hot summer days, it is most advisable to stay off the northern flanks as the dark coloured rock becomes intolerably hot and heatstroke is a virtual certainty. There is pleasant shady climbing on the south side on these days. Winter days are mild and daytime temperature rarely drops below 17degC.

Miscellaneous Info

On 17th May 1770 Captain James Cook RN , sailed up the east coast of what is now Australia. He named the volcanic domes which are quite visible from out at sea the Glass Houses because the shapes reminded him of the glass manufacturing houses back in his home town.