To get there, From Constantia Nek head down Main Road into Hout Bay for four and a half kilometres, passing the Oakhurst Farm Park and Greenacres Close.

To get there, From Constantia Nek head down Main Road into Hout Bay for four and a half kilometres, passing the Oakhurst Farm Park and Greenacres Close.

Line 119:

Line 119:

"Access is only allowed during daylight hours, as there are security beams in the area and people crossing could d cause problems for the adjacent land owners who are trying to keep their properties safe. "He also urges the public to leave all gates locked once they have passed through them, and to be safety conscious while in the area.

"Access is only allowed during daylight hours, as there are security beams in the area and people crossing could d cause problems for the adjacent land owners who are trying to keep their properties safe. "He also urges the public to leave all gates locked once they have passed through them, and to be safety conscious while in the area.

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There are two locks and you can get the code from Watchcon (021 7909333) Please keep the gates locked and don't use after dark.

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There are two locks. Please keep the gates locked and don't use after dark.

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The access code for the gate can be obtained from the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA), Watchcon or Gerfried Nebe. Call MCSA on 021 465 3412 between 10 am and 2 pm from Monday to Friday, Watchcon on 021 790 9333 or Gerfried Nebe on 021 790 3877.

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You must use email to get the new access code.

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[Suffix: don't call the MCSA. just call watchcon. - Robert].

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Send an email skoorsteenskop@cityrock.co.za and get an automatic reply with the code.

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The reason you can only get access to the code via email is so that we know who you are. Crime in the area is a problem, and this way we have at least some record and accountability who got the code, and when.

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Alternatively, email Rose from the MCSA. mcsacapetown@iafrica.com, she will also have the code.

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See this article for more info: http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/03/skoorsteenskop-hout-bay-access-details/

== Route Info ==

== Route Info ==

Latest revision as of 13:11, 24 June 2015

Variable climbing from nice sport climbing at Skoorsteenkop to multi-pitch tradding, some on big walls.
The climbing is located in quite a number of areas.

Gear

Usual sport climbing or tradding racks. On trad routes wear a helmet and use double ropes.

The climbing

The sport climbing is single pitch. The trad climbing is mostly old sandstone with some loose rock in certain areas. Chapman's Peak is quite serious and while some parts of The Sentinel are really good, other parts are grim.

Getting there

Notes

Access

Routes

Many of the old routes are described in journals of the Mountain Club of South Africa.

Bokkemanskloof, Hout Bay, Cape

Access:

Park at the top of the exceedingly steep Blue Valley Avenue which leads up through the Bokkemanskloof housing estate. Find the path to the left of the end of the road. Head up to the prominent buttress up on the left.

Chapman’s Left Edge

Chapman’s Peak, Hout Bay, Cape

Access:

The crag is the spectacular one above the road that leads from Hout Bay to Noordhoek. Park at the appropriate siding on Chapman’s Peak Pass. Walk and scramble up a steep gorge which leads to the base of the lefthand edge of the crag. This route heads up the good white rock on the left of the face and then to the centre of the headwall in a dramatic situation.

Season

Great on hot summer days (best in the afternoon), but this crag should be avoided when the wind blows as it is very exposed.

Gear

50m / 60m rope and sport rack

The climbing

Mostly vertical faces with a couple of small overhangs to get around.

Getting there / Access

To get there, From Constantia Nek head down Main Road into Hout Bay for four and a half kilometres, passing the Oakhurst Farm Park and Greenacres Close.
Turn left into Hughenden Road - up the road for 50m
Then left into Whittlers Way.
Follow Whittlers way for about 700 metres until just beyond Peterhof Close, where a locked gale can be found on the right, between number 30 and 32 Whittlers Way (opposite the entrance to No. 37 Whittlers Way). This gate gives access to a strip of land which is a servitude belonging the waterworks department, which leads to another locked gate, and then the pipe track, which is also a waterworks servitude.
Once crossed, you are on the mountain.

Walk up for 100 metres to the contour track. Head left a little way and then straight up to the obvious fortress-like buttress above.

You will need an access code for for the locked gates (see below).

If you wish to continue further there are some cairns that lead to the top of Skoorsteenberg, but there is no path beyond Skoorsteenkop.
The museum offers this route as' part of its walking programme.

"Access is only allowed during daylight hours, as there are security beams in the area and people crossing could d cause problems for the adjacent land owners who are trying to keep their properties safe. "He also urges the public to leave all gates locked once they have passed through them, and to be safety conscious while in the area.
There are two locks. Please keep the gates locked and don't use after dark.

You must use email to get the new access code.
Send an email skoorsteenskop@cityrock.co.za and get an automatic reply with the code.
The reason you can only get access to the code via email is so that we know who you are. Crime in the area is a problem, and this way we have at least some record and accountability who got the code, and when.
Alternatively, email Rose from the MCSA. mcsacapetown@iafrica.com, she will also have the code.

Short, fun route on isolated face just right of Lichen it or Not, in a nice position above the gully.

Fight through crack in the roof above ledge, then follow rails in the centre of the face to top.

The Sentinel

Twilight of an Idol - Originally opened by Guy Holwill and John Orrock as a 10 pitch aid route in 1989. Freed (except pitch 4) by Guy and Dave Pothier in 1992. Most pitches listed here are quite short. It awaits a completely free ascent...

Route Info

The feature to look for is the rail going leftwards thru the big roof on pitch 4.

P1 – easy 40m: Climb/scramble to the big ledge

P2 – 26: Climb the short sandy wall to the hand-crack thru the roof (might be soft for the grade)

P3 – 20: Climb the crack dihedral to the ledge below the big roofs.

P4 – A1: Climb the big dihedral to below the roof, then rail out leftwards to a stance just around the lip. This should go free 24-26 ish – but it's quite intimidating.

P5 to P9 18: Climb the face straight up tending slightly rightwards – you'll eventually end up on a great ledge at the base of a clean dihedral (this can be done in 2 rope-lengths rather than 4 pitches)

P10 – 22: Climb the dihedral.

Walk off right along the big ledge (one section where you need to take care).