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rear outside door latch is broken on Chevrolet Astro?

Do not drill these out. They are not rivets. They are bolts that are built onto the handle assembly, with the nuts on the inside of the door. They will not drill out easily, if at all. If they had it would have been a bigger problem fixing it. I quit on this route as soon as I noticed they were not rivets but not before chewing them up a bit with the drill.

The alternative is to get the interior panel off to get at the door handle release mechanism. This is not easy, with all of the plastic, and fancy padded vinyl on it. If your interior is in great shape like ours, you really don’t want to trash the back door. Removing the screws and prying at the plastic (fiberglass?) frame did not give me enough access room. Breaking the plastic frame 18-20 inches each direction from the interior right hand corner allowed the vinyl covered panel to be slipped down and bent over. This gave easy access to the rod to release the door latch.

Once the door was open there was an access panel to remove on the inside edge of the door, and the handle assembly was in full view. The lever off of the handle had broken off and was easily attached with a bolt, locking nuts and washers. Oiling the mechanism after reassembling made things function smoother.

The panel frame went together fine and only looks like a couple of cracks. I could fix it up nice with some epoxy, sanding and paint, but right now I have easy access to the door mechanism if it breaks again. It’s too bad Chevy didn’t spend a few cents to put an access panel here at least. Why would you make a door on a vehicle that couldn’t be opened from the inside anyway? These days even the trunks have exit latches.

This door fix could cost over a 100 dollars in a body shop. Even if the handle mechanism is broken differently, gaining access from the inside allows you to use the rear doors with a pair of pliers on the release rod. This way you can either live with a door that, now only opens from the inside, or go to the junkyard for mechanism parts.

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From the inside I removed the door panel and opened the door by pulling the rod. After it was open and I was outside I removed the side panel as well. The little 2 1/2X7 or so panel for access to the handle assembly. With both panels off it was clear that the problem was the swing arm on the handle assembly came off. These are pushed on at the manufacture and just have a little lip of the metal that actually holds them in place, it wears down easily and then falls of the latch arm. I pushed it back onto the latch and then drilled a hole through the center of the push pin. I then put a larger washer on a self tapinng screw and screwed it into the hole I drilled. Now the assembly that holds the door latch rod stays attached to the handle and everything works just fine. I believe it will outlast any replacement handle.The entire job took less than ten minutes .Just a note here after doing any work there always lube up the latch assembly and the pivot points. The door will work easier and last longer.

Solution is to find the spot welds, drill holes next to the welds, and put in a short rivet or two. Much easier before the weld breaks, because they hold the track in alignment. I did both doors after the track broke loose in the driver’s side door.

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rear door handle busted, cheap pot metal. I took off the interior plastic trim also, pulled the connecting rod to pop the doors open. 4 screws to remove latch covering the access area. Removed 2 nuts that hold the handle 10mm(DONT DRILL FROM THE OUTSIDE!). Remove rod from mechanism, pull out old handle. I got a replacement handle from 1A Auto.com for $21.00. 20 minutes it was done!

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Nice fix for the rear handle! I have some input that can keep from damaging the interior panel. With rear window opened, 1: Remove the decorative weather seal (it lifts away) that binds the lip of the interior panel and the metal lip on the door structure. 2: At the top left corner (Facing the door from the exterior), between the interior panel and the metal of the door, gently pry the top plastic fastener away using something flat and sturdy ( 1″ chisel?). Now the panel can be pulled away approx. (one inch) 1″. Use something (chisel handle?) that will hold the panel open. 3: Pull away the plastic dust barrier. A small flashlight will allow you to see the door latch mechanism . 4: Using a long barbecue fork you can now push down on the mechanism enough to release the latch. In place of the fork, any long (min. 18″) thin, yet sturdy, tool will work.

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If you look at the old handle you will see two things that look like bolts. Center punch them and drill out with a ¼" drill to knock the heads off. Then you can remove the handle and trip the linkage to open the door. On the inside door jamb just below the latch, there is a small "trap" door with four screws. Remove them and the door to access the inside of the door to retrieve the nuts/studs to install the new handle.

There is an improved door handle. Part numbers 15173051 and 15173052 (L and R).

Press on the panel at the retainer locations until the retainers are fully seated.

Install the right molding to the door:

2.1.

Place the retainers into the holes.

2.2.

Press on the panel at the retainer locations until the retainers are fully seated.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the screws that retain the panel to the door.

TightenTighten the screws that retain the panel to the door to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

Install the swing-out window latch.

Ensure that the weatherstrip fits into the corner and matches the corner of the radius of the body flange.

Ensure that the weatherstrip is seated completely onto the flange in all areas, resulting in a smooth, vinyl trim around the entire door opening.

Important: When using the rubber mallet, the weatherstrip must be hit square to the flange. Otherwise, an undesirable spreading of the carrier will occur, resulting in reduced retention.

Ensure that there is no distortion or excessive spreading of the carrier as a result of hitting the carrier improperly with the rubber mallet.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the screws (3) that retain the lock to the door.

TightenTighten the screws that retain the lock to the door to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

Install the control rods (1, 2) through the clips to the lock assembly.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the lower latch screws.

TightenTighten the lower latch screws to 7.5 N·m (66 lb in).

Install the upper latch and the rod to the door.

Install the cover, if equipped.

Install the upper latch screws.

TightenTighten the upper latch screws to 9.5 N·m (84 lb in).

Install the control rods through the clips to the remote lock.

Install the water deflector.

Install the trim panel.

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Rear Door Outside Handle and Lock Cylinder Replacement

New lock cylinders are available as replacement parts. If the door lock cylinders require replacement for any reason, apply a coating of lubricant GM P/N 12346241 or the equivalent inside the lock case and the cylinder keyway prior to assembling and installing the cylinder.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the license plate housing bolts.

TightenTighten the license plate housing bolts to 4 N·m (35 lb in).

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the license lamp bolts.

TightenTighten the license lamp bolts to 4 N·m (35 lb in).

Install the clip to the outside handle (2).

Install the outside handle (2) to the door.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.