The AHA moment: 13 exfoliant for baby smooth skin

Last updated on January 30th, 2018

Bad pun aside, acids like AHAs and BHAs are my go-to when my skin starts looking dull and feeling rough. But not all acids or exfoliants are made equal, so similar to my wash-off mask roundup, today’s post breaks down 13 different exfoliants by skincare needs. Ready? Let’s go!

→ DISCLAIMER: Before you start exfoliating willy nilly, you might want to read my updated post on why I decided to stop exfoliating. The below information about acids/actives are still true, but I’ve cut most of these from my routine indefinitely.

A crash course on the acids

Acids in general help increase skin turnover and shed the surface layer of our skin, resulting in smoother textures, fading of hyperpigmentation, and diminished appearances of fine lines. Sounds wonderful, but due to the low pH level required for them to be effective, they can also irritate the skin if used in excess. Acids can be further broken down into 3 types:

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are the most common type of acids found in chemical exfoliants, and include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and fruit acids. Mandelic acid is also an AHA, but gentler and oil-soluble, meaning it can go deep into your pores to unclog them, similar to…

Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) differ from AHAs in that they’re oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate into the pores and exfoliate the dead skin cells that build up inside there. BHAs are also anti-inflammatory, making them suitable for oily and congestion-prone skin. Common BHAs include salicylic acid, betaine salicylate, and willow bark extract.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHA) are the most gentle of the 3 types and the least likely to irritate the skin, but they’re still as effective as AHAs (source). Two common PHAs are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

Keep in mind that using acids can make the skin photosensitive, so make sure you apply ample sunscreen in the morning (which you really should do anyways)!

Lastly, there are other exfoliants like retinol and vitamin c which don’t really fall in the above 3 categories, but still provide similar functions and results.

For first-timers and sensitive skin

Look for low % and the use of gentler ingredients like PHAs, mandelic acid, betaine salicylate, and willow bark extract. The key is to start slow and low to minimize any irritations and damages to your skin’s moisture barrier. Products that include soothing and hydrating ingredients can also help.

Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid(100ml) uses 4% betaine salicylate (salicylic acid combined with betaine) and willow bark water for gentle pore cleansing action. It has a nice water-like texture and also contains niacinamide for brightening and panthenol + hyaluronic acid for hydrating. I use this when my skin is feeling hormonal or congested.
→ Full ingredients analysis on Skincarisma
→ Buy from Wishtrend for $21, Amazon for $14.98, or Ulta for $22, YesStyle for $17

Pixi Glow Tonic(250ml) uses 5% glycolic acid and while it’s a bit stronger, it’s still gentle enough for daily use. It also contains aloe vera juice to soothe the skin and ginseng extract to improve circulation. On this list because it’s less expensive than the Mandelic Acid Skin Prep Water, and still works well.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Dermstore & ASOS for $29, Cult Beauty for $23, Target for $15 (100m)

For the acid veterans who need something tough

Once your skin is used to the occasional acids, you can slowly(keyword is slowly) introduce products that are stronger – either with a higher % or stronger acids like glycolic and salicylic acid. Prescription retinol would also fall in this category. Start by using these every other night and see how your skin reacts before committing to these daily.

Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid 18% (15ml)is effective but still gentle, and I was almost inclined to put this in the first-timers group, but as with everything, baby steps is key to preventing over-exfoliation. This is what I used to use before Curology, and I still use it occasionally when I want a break from retinol. If you want smooth skin with minimal irritation, you need to try this.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Amazon for $24.75, eBay for $23.90, or YesStyle for $48.36

Curology with 0.05% tretinoin + 4% azaleic acid is my main chemical exfoliant that I use daily. It’s actually a cream formula and best applied right before your evening moisturizer to minimize any irritation, because boy it’s strong. You can read about my Curology experiences here and here, and it’s the one product I’ve used religiously since I started. I think I’m on my…5th bottle now?
→ Order from Curology for $39.90 every 2 months, and get your first 1-month supply free!

Verso Super Facial Serum (30ml) contains a gentle retinol alternative and vitamin c to provide the same resurfacing benefits as AHAs but without the irritations. It’s also stupid expensive, but after using a sample for 2 weeks while traveling, I can see why. My skin was smoother, brighter, and I actually went foundation free my last few days because my skin looked that good. Plus a little goes a long way.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Dermstore and Net-a-Porter for $120, Cult Beauty for $107

Sunday Riley Good Genes(30ml) is here because everyone raves about it, but honestly I don’t care for it. It’s expensive, stings like a b*tch, and it didn’t do anything for my skin other than to make it red and angry. It’s main exfoliant is lactic acid, and it also contains a bunch of great plant extracts, so maybe you’ll have better luck with it?
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Sephora, Dermstore, or Nordstrom for $105, Cult Beauty for $91

For the travelers or those lazy days

These are like the wipe equivalent of makeup removers. I don’t reach for them often as I prefer either my gentle acid toners or strong chemical exfoliants, but when I’m feeling lazy or traveling, exfoliating pads (especially individually packaged ones) are my top picks.

Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Daily Cleansing Pads*(60 pads) aren’t glamorous or even fun to use by any means, but they’re surprisingly gentle, convenient, and affordable. I thought the pads would dry out because they’re not individually packaged, but I’ve had this for a couple months now and they’re still moist.
→ Buy from Ulta or Amazon for $12.99

COMMON LABS Mild Peeling Finger Pad*(7 pads) contains both AHA (glycolic acid) and BHA (salicylic acid) to gently exfoliate the skin. I first fell in love with these they were part of the Common Labs Ggultamin Real Jel Masks, and I’m so glad to see these now sold individually. In addition to the acids these also contain honey, vitamin c, hyaluronic acid, and soothing plant extracts. Unfortunately it also contains alcohol, but personally I haven’t experienced any irritations. Since these are individually packaged they’re great for travel!
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Amazon for $9.99

Wish Formula C200 Bubble Peeling Pad*(4 pads) is a unique foaming pad that uses a combo of lactic acid, glycolic acid, and ascorbic acid (vitamin c) to exfoliate the skin. It’s definitely the strongest of the 3, but it also contains hyaluronic acid and soothing plant extracts to hydrate the skin. Despite the high price point, this does an excellent job of smoothing and brightening the skin, and the irritation is temporary, leaving no redness or tightness behind. You also get a lot of product in 1 pad, so you can use it on your neck, elbows, and even knees!
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Amazon for $19.99

Left to right: before and after the bubble peel

For those who prefer physical exfoliation

Even though I’ve pretty much stopped using face scrubs since my St. Ive’s days, I still like to keep a few in my rotation, mainly due to its ability to give immediate results. Try to look for ones with very fine particles and always massage gently to avoid micro injuries on your skin. For this reason I typically to avoid drugstore scrubs because they tend to use rough particles like walnut shells (I’m looking at you St. Ive’s) or microbeads, which can harm the environment.

Instytutum Triple Effect Peel*(120ml) combines micro exfoliating particles with salicylic acid and papaya enzymes give you baby soft skin instantly. Thanks to skin soothing ingredients like chamomile extract and allantoin, this doesn’t feel harsh on the skin, and can even be used as a mask without the scrubbing motion! I like using this once a week by massaging this on wet clean skin, and then leaving on for a few minutes to let the chemical exfoliants do their work before washing it off.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Instytutum for $79

Josie Maran Argan Exfoliating Cleansing Powder(60g) can be used as a daily cleanser, but I prefer to use it as a weekly exfoliating treatment, which it does a good job at. It uses very fine argan shell and rice powder as its physical exfoliants, papaya enzyme to gently dissolve dead surface skin cells, and green tea + licorice root extracts to soothe and brighten. Since it’s a dry powder, it can be mixed with water or any non-foaming cleanser of choice – my pick is the Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from Sephora for $40

Klairs Gentle Black Sugar Face Polish(110g) was an old favorite thanks to its amazing smell and its gentle ingredients. It uses black sugar as its main exfoliant and contains shea butter and cranberry seed oil to nourish the skin simultaneously. The sugar actually dissolves in contact with water, leaving your skin smooth, soft, and moisturized.
→ Full ingredients on CosDNA
→ Buy from YesStyle for $16.35, Amazon for $18.30, Wishtrend for $23 (check my Twitter for monthly coupon codes!)

So obviously I don’t use these in my routines everyday (with the exception of Curology), otherwise my face would be in an extremely tragic state. As the categorization suggests, I vary the products I use depending on my skin’s needs at the moment. In fact, I probably use at most 1 of these products a day, but it’s all about understanding what your skin needs and what it can tolerate.

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Hopefully you found this list helpful, and let me know if there are any exfoliating products (on this list or not) that you love and recommend! Have a great rest of the week! As for me, I’ll be in curling up in a blanket nursing my feelings after that Game of Thrones episode last night, because icanteventhatwasjustomgimdead.

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* indicate PR samples I received for review purposes, however all opinions are 100% honest and my own.This post contains affiliate links, and each purchase helps cover the cost of running this blog, so I appreciate each click! For more information please read my disclosure policy.

Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment! Even though I may not reply, I do read and appreciate each one. If you have a question, feel free to message me privately and I'll definitely get back to you! xoxo.

This is such a good post! I use a few too, but my maximum is once a day too or my skin dries out too much. I’ve never heard of the by wishtrend acid but now I’m intrigued since you said it’s better than the Pixi Glow (which is the main one I use) x

Thanks so much for the sweet comment! Pixi Glow used to be my main acid toner as well, but it’s pretty much been left in the dust since I started using the Mandelic Acid Prep Water – I notice better results and it’s gentler on my skin too!

I love how you break everything down, Jenny. Your posting schedule may be more rare these days but your writing is amazing and I actually get really excited whenever I see a new post from you because I know I will learn something new.

I am not familiar with PHAs so thank you for the introduction and I’ll need to learn more about it.

Thanks so much for the sweet comment Shireen, really appreciate your support here on the blog and on IG <3 PHAs are pretty new for me as well, and I'm hoping to try more products with them in the future too!

Awesome post! Great to see some products I’m familiar with as well as introduction to new products! I totally agree, the Wishtrend Mandelic Acid water is better than Pixi Glow Tonic in pretty much every way…I love it! I’ll have to check out that Dr. Wu serum sometime, it sounds amazing.

Thank you Camilla! If you like the Wishtrend Mandelic Acid I think you’ll really like the Dr. Wu serum as well! They also have a 6% serum, though that’s not as exciting anymore since we already have the 5% skin prep water :P

What a great post featuring products that I haven’t heard before. I absolutely love acids they have made my skin looking less dull and have helped a lot with the texture of my skin. Thanks for sharing your collection and thoughts on these different acid.

Ooh nice list, I’m a proud supporter of AHAs and BHAs haha. I currently use The Ordinary’s 30% AHA + 2% BHA (I think that’s what it’s called) once a week and I think it works well. Never tried any of the ones you mentioned but would love to try Pixi’s Glow Tonic as everyone raves about it. xxCoco Bella Blog

Thank you Demilade! Oh wow that’s a strong combo but glad to hear it’s working well for you! The Ordinary’s products are on my list to try, especially since they’re so affordable too. Glow Tonic is a classic and was a favorite of mine for several years!

Great post! Would love to try COSRX products. As for Sunday Riley’s Good genes, I don’t really have the guts to gamble because of the reviews of people saying that it was not worth the price or them having breakouts!
xx, Kathyhttp://www.kathywang.co.uk/

Thanks so much Kathy! Cosrx is one of my favorite brands for affordable but effective skincare products, they also have a great AHA essence that I’ve sampled in the past and enjoyed. With Sunday Riley’s Good Genes definitely see if you can get a sample to test out first, I know so many people that swear by it, but there seems to be just as many (including myself) who don’t think it’s worth the price.

Yes Jenny – yet another amazing post here! You never fail to produce informative content that I love to read (and, admittedly, reread a lot) My skin can sometimes be quite dull, however, it is sensitive, so I’ve noted down some of the less aggressive products for purchase. You’re absolutely right about the Sunday Riley – my skin flared up MAJORLY after use! Never buying it again! However, I’m absolutely blown away by the effects of the Wish formula product – there is genuinely a visible difference! I’ll have to get it, too tempted! xx
Lots of love,
Marina Rosie xxhttp://marinawriteslife.blogspot.fr/

Aww you’re always so sweet Marina, thank you so much!! It’s crazy how divided people’s opinions are of Good Genes, they either love it or hate it! I’m secretly glad I’m on the side that hates it because it means one less expensive product I need to purchase, hehe. Definitely check out the Wish Formula pads, they’re amazing for brightening!

Ahh I loved this post! I think acid toning has made one of the biggest improvements to my skin I’ve seen. I can’t get enough! Lots to try from your post, especially from the veterans section. I love Pixi glow tonic for every day and also Sunday Riley Good Genes. I have been using Alpha H liquid gold too and loving that.

Thanks so much Amy! I agree with you, adding acids in my routine has made a huge difference, but I’ve definitely had my share of times where I got a little too enthusiastic and overexfoliated. The Alpha H liquid gold has been on my radar for a while now, do you find it stronger than Good Genes?

This is fantastic post – so many great product suggestions! I love Pixi Glow Tonic and my favourite ever exfoliator is MAC Volcanic Ash, not ideal for sensitive skin but great if yours is tough like mine! xxxxx

I love how informative your posts are!! I know Shireen talked about the mandelic acid recently, so that’s definitely on my list, even more so that you said it’s good for beginners (as that’s exactly what I am!) I’ve always leaned toward physical exfoliation, mostly because chemical ones can get very confusing, but I’m slowly sorting my way through them, haha. Have you tried the Neogen Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling pads? I’ve heard they’re great so I wanted to try them out, but if you’ve tried them, I’d be curious to hear your thoughts!

Thank you so much Sam! I was overwhelmed at first when I started using chemical exfoliants, and unfortunately one of the first products I tried was the Sunday Riley Good Genes, which was definitely too strong. Luckily I switched to mandelic acid soon after (the Dr. Wu serum specifically) and my skin adjusted much better!

I haven’t tried the Neogen peeling pads yet, but they’ve been on my wishlist for a while now! When I finish one of my current products I’ll probably add that to my rotation :D

This is a fantastic roundup! I generally prefer chemical exfoliation to physical exfoliation when it comes to my face. I see some products here that I’ve tried like the Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Daily Cleansing Pads and Sunday Riley Good Genes. Good Genes is pricey but it actually works well for me. I just can’t stand the smell of it. And those glycolic pads are just so reliable. I actually have my husband on the Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid and it does a really job of keeping his skin smooth and clear. I feel like I’m the only one who hasn’t tried the Pixi Glow Tonic. I swear I will get to it one of these days. A product that I currently swear by is the Drunk Elephant Babyfacial. It’s a little $ but it gives me such baby soft skin.

Thanks so much Rowena! I really should give my husband the Cosrx Blackhead Power Liquid to try as well, goodness knows his nose could use this, lol! The Pixi Glow Tonic is such a classic product, but I feel like with all these other exfoliating products I own I rarely reach for it now (it’s still a good product though!). I’ve heard good things about the Drunk Elephant Babyfacial, it’s on my list of products to try after I finish one of these!

I love how you detailed all the available choices out there! I’m personally using the COSRX Blackhead Power Liquid and it has saved me from so many awkward breakouts on my chin! And you got the By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water! I’m gonna give it a try once I’m done with my COSRX :D

Aw thank you hun! The COSRX blackhead power liquid was a staple in my routine back when I kept breaking out, it’s really amazing at keeping my pores clean! Excited to hear your thoughts on the By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid, hope you’ll love it too!

I like to consider myself an acid veteran because I actually have a bi-annual chemical peel treatment from my go-to dermatologist :) and oh boy! The down time is really a drag that’s why sometimes I just prefer acid toners. I both used Pixi and Wishtrend, and honestly, I prefer Wishtrend because it’s more hydrating and cheaper for me :D But I think I may try your recommendations for those who travel and for those who are lazy, it sounds like they will suit my lifestyle haha!

Oh wow you really are an acid veteran! :D One of these days I’d like to try out a chemical peel from a professional as well, but I am a little worried about the downtime, so I can see why you might prefer acid toners. Peeling pads are great too, and I like that they come in different strengths and acid types! Hope you’ll find one that works well for you!

Thank you for this post! I’ve heard about AHAs everywhere but I was so confused about what they did, but you explained this perfectly! Now, I’ve always struggled with a red nose, and some redness in general. But I’ve noticed that I have a little dark spots on my nose and really flaky dry skin. What would your recommendations be for me?

So glad to hear that Hannah!! Hmm, your skin actually sounds a bit like mine (minus the really dry part), so I think the mandelic acid water might work well for you, just because it’s the most gentle one and it has some soothing ingredients which should help with the redness. For my nose I also like to use the Cosrx Blackhead Power Liquid as that seems to work the best at clearing out the little dark spots (sebaceous filaments). If you do try them I hope they’ll work as well for you as they did for me!

What a great article! It’s so informative. I love especially BHA and started using a PHA cream not so long ago and I also like it a lot. My holy grail BHA is by cosrx (the pad version).
and I’m so excited because I have the Wish Formula and Common labs in the mail!!

Thank you so much lovely! Which PHA cream are you using? I’ve been trying to look for more products with PHA but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of them on the market yet. That’s so exciting that you’ll be trying the Wish Formula & Common Labs products soon, hopefully you’ll love them as much as I do!

Cosrx PHA moisture renewal cream came out in May, Swanicoco has PHA 10% coco peeling cream and Make P:rem has PHA line with toner, serum and sleeping pack. You can get it at Glow recipe but I found the whole line from eBay seller from Korea for less than half (under 60 USD while GR sells it for about 120). Hope this helps. I haven’t tried the Swanicoco yet but love the others.

I use the Pixi Glow Tonic pretty religiously. I need to bookmark this post, as I’ve been wanting to get more out of my comfort zone with AHAs. Btw, the title of this post is genius! I see what you did there ;)… Some of these brands have definitely been on my radar, so it’s nice to hear good things about them! Hope you have a lovely weekend lady.

Haha, thank you, glad you enjoyed the pun :P Pixi Glow was one of my first exfoliating products, but honestly there are so many great options out there it’s hard to just commit to one! Hopefully you’ll find something that works really well for your skin. Hope you have a great weekend too!

This post was so informative and helpful! I do love a good exfoliating acid but have to be careful as I struggle with super sensitive skin. I have used some of the products you mention (Pixi Glow Tonic, Good Genes, Verso Retinol Serum) in the past and really liked how they left my skin. I do want to try the Mandelic though. Collen Rothchild has one that I’ve had my eyes on for quite some time now, but the one you suggest also sounds interesting.
I’ve tremendously enjoyed reading this post, well done Jenny!

Thank you so much Cat, always appreciate your support here on the blog and on IG! <3 I've definitely gotten carried away with exfoliating in the past and left my skin red and angry, and it's something I'm very mindful of as well now. I wasn't aware of any Western brands that had mandelic acid based products (other than Makeup Artist Choice), so thank you for mentioning Collen Rothchild! Will have to check out their product! :D

What a fab post Jenny! I love exfoliating my skin and this guide is a godsent. No joke. Have you tried some of the Ordinary products? Many say that their AHA serum is a better alternative to Good Genes; same goes for Drunk Elephant.

I think you might really like Institut Esthederm AHA Peel Gentle Serum; it is a mix of Glycolic, Salicylic and Lactic Acids. Whenever I use it, I feel like I don’t even have to exfoliate. It’s very gentle too, I have sensitive skin and thank goodness – no irritation.

Aww thank you for the sweet comment Naya! I actually haven’t tried The Ordinary products but now I feel like I really should give their AHA serum a try, especially since it’s so cheap! I did hear good things about Drunk Elephant’s Babyfacial and a part of me wants it purely for the pink packaging, haha

The Institut Esthederm AHA Peel Gentle Serum sounds lovely and really potent! Will definitely need to check it out once I finish some of these products!

This is such a great post!!! …. girl you nailed it :) you went so in depth to explain the product. I don’t know much about skincare… but your post have taught me a lot :) xx
Ambihttp://www.ambiinwonderland.com

I had way better luck than you did with Good Genes, it did not sting at all and left my skin baby soft and bright! It is among my most repurchased exfoliants, mainly because it is so gentle on my skin. It always amazes me how different people can react.
The pixi Glow Tonic is one that I like as well and just like you I use the Instytutum Triple Peel about once a week for some extra oomph. And I just remembered that I have a Verso sample in my stash, I need to dig it out once I return home from my trip!

That’s great that you got such great results! It really goes to show how unique our skins are, and that there’s really no objectively perfect product out there. Hope the Verso serum works well for you, would love to hear your thoughts on it when you try it out!

I love AHA as I find that glycolic acid and sometimes lactic acid works great for my skin though I always try to be careful because of my sensitive skin. I’m a big fan of Pixi Glow Tonic and have tried a sample of Good Genes and like it a lot too. Such a great informative post! Thanks for sharing this info! xx

This post has been so useful, I really had no idea where to start with AHAs and BHAs. Thank you for all the recommendations, I have texture on my skin so I’m keeping my fingers crossed this will help it improve!