Authentic, charming are two words to describe this north-side gem. It's like a trip to Mexico, no airfare required

Jan. 8, 2014
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True to its name, Tamale's Industry specializes in all sorts of tamales, including the blueberry and pineapple versions pictured at far left. A plate of chicken fajitas is shown at right. / Michael Morain/The Register

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Scene: A trip to Tamale’s Industry isn’t the same as a sunny getaway south of the border, but it’s about as close as you can get without buying a plane ticket. Everything about this mama-y-papa joint is welcoming, from the cheery yellow paint outside to the cool green walls within, decked out with maps and posters straight from Mexico’s department of tourism. From the 30-seat dining room, you can peek into the tiny kitchen where owners Angelica and Francisco Tejeda have been working their magic since 2010. They’ve been in the business at other locations since 1995 — and started making tamales long before they packed up from Michoacan.

Food: In the mood for a Three Tongue Taco Meal? You’re in luck (for $9). Or how about four enchil­adas? Just say the word (and pay $7).

A couple who come here every few weeks were just leaving when we arrived, and they recommended the blueberry tamales. They were right. The Tejedas mash real fruit into the (corn) masa with a tech­nique that can take up to a full day. But the results are delicious: The blueberry tamale is purple through­out and tastes like a cross between cake-y cornbread and a blueberry muffin. The pineapple version is studded with fruity nuggets, which give it a hint of sweetness.

Since the tamales are just $3 apiece ($10 for six, $18 for a dozen; call ahead for big orders), we also tried one stuffed with a poblano pepper, which melts in the masa like roasted garlic.

Tamale’s Industry is a popular vendor at the Wednesday farmers market that pops up on 13th Street in late summer, but it’s much easier to assemble a full sampler at the rest­aurant, where you can get burritos, fajitas, quesadillas or all of the above (for $7-$9 per plate). We sam­pled a tongue taco ($1.80) — so tender — and split a perfectly spiced order of chicken fajitas, which comes with fragrant rice and lightly refried beans. The salsa has two alter egos: sweet red and smoldering green.

Service: Charming. The Tejedas will take care of you from the moment you step inside.