So we finally decided to use these snow days to start our "over the top project". A highly modified corvette drift car. Up to this point, a $20 corvette lowered over 1" all the way around, mustang wheels, custom carbon fiber spoiler, handmade front air splitter, custom side skirts, custom corvette style cowl hood, and a 24 volt conversion. This will be a flagship test vehicle for our shop plastic innovations. Up next; rear air diffusier, more carbon fiber inserts, aluminum body panels, compete race inspired racing paint theme, and racing sponsored graphics. We are seeking suggestions for sponsor and or paint themes.

The wheels are stock corvette wheels with modified mustang hubcaps. Drilled the holes in the hubcaps larger and counter sunk holes on the front to fit the stock spindles. The mustang hubcaps are slightly wider than stock even after modification. In the rear we used a jeep axle to gain the width. Finished the rear air diffuser yesterday. I think it was worth the all the time it took.

So, I decided that the mustang wheels didn't exactly fit the theme of our build. I liked how easy it was, but this build isn't about easy. This is the mock up of the new wheels version 2.0. These new wheels actually have a subtle staggered fitment and the reverse offset is more on the line of a race car. The rim will be silver and the face will be a gun metal color. Stainless button head allen bolts will fill the smaller outer holes to mimic 3 piece wheels. I am still toying with the idea of center caps that mimic a 5 lug bolt pattern with studs and lugs or possibly even using PVC hex end caps to simulate a "knock off" style F1 wheel.

The original flip on the front end only gained 1 1/4" lower from the stock position. We decided it would be worth the effort to weld up some drop spindles that gained another 1/2" drop in the front. Now we have the option of shimming to adjust ride height from its current lowest setting, to 1/2" higher. Then we mocked up the spoiler brackets with cardboard, until the final brackets are cut out of 3/8 aluminum. The side skirts are "left overs" from an old honda racing spoiler. Rear ride height still has to be set before the skirts can be properly fitted. Next will be a hand bent rear subframe, more front end bracing, a 49cc 2 stroke racing engine, aluminum go kart hubs, #35 sprocket/chain, hydraulic disc brake with an e-brake handle, and handmade full length exhaust with quad ports. (aka, corvette exhaust). So much for 24volts!

Got some more done on the project 2 Stroke vette. The Axle is finally done minus the brake. The wheel drivers were really easy once we came up with junk old 1/4 drive 12mm sockets! Keyways will be milled into the axle once the sub frame is laid out and positioning of hubs and sprockets is determined. Center mount exhaust mocked up. Scratched the "quad exhaust". Making progress on the disc brake and handbrake. Swapping from metric chain to #35 kart chain will also require more machining, Stay tuned, more to come...

Thanks! I am very happy with the wheel drivers and hopefully, it can be an easy solution for other members on the forum to use stock safety first wheels on kart hubs. Today I started work on the sub frame. Looking like it's going to need to tie the front to the rear and have cross bracing to support the pedal assemblies. So, I guess it will technically be a full frame. I am toying with the idea of having modified scooter brake discs on the front wheels with hydraulic calipers operated by the pedal, and have a mechanical caliper/disc in the rear that will be operated by hand brake to assist in drifting. Can't decide if it will be functional enough to merit the design and fab work.

stock setup at 24V is enough to break loose and drift with those plastic wheelsmy son does it at 18V with his (killed 2 sets of traction bands then gave up on them)a 2cycle engine depending on displacement and gearing should be able too with no problemsBEWARE .. depending on your choice of clutch on that engine a hand brake might be more destructive then its worth ... locking up the rearend and stopping the clutch and potentialy the engine is an easy way to snap a flywheel key or worse a connecting rod

Made some progress on engine mounts and wheels. Still waiting on the metal for the subframe. Figured out the front disc brakes finally, and they won't be easy but will def be worth the extra work. Really excited to show everyone the front brakes once all the parts come in!

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Hand polished stainless M8 cap head bolts cut down to fit the wheels. All 32 only took about 4hrs.

Mock up of the wheels (unpainted) with new hardware.

Angle iron and an alternator bracket from a small block chevy.

Motor mounts done. They will be welded to 1/4 plate that will be slotted to adjust chain tension.

Progress was pretty good today. Axle milled out for 4 different 1/4 keyway locations. After over 3 hours per wheel, the wheels are finally done! Got a custom moroso air cleaner mocked up on the motor and work on the frame is finally underway (not pictured). Brakes are waiting on parts and machining. Starting to think remote control would be really pretty sweet, and safer! If anyone has any experience in RC power wheels, how hard is it?

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4 separate keyways milled into the axle and ends of tube welded.

Wheels are FINALLY done. The masking for paint was a pain, but def worth it.

Not the most exciting post, but I found the missing puzzle piece to the front end while at work today. Some new 1 1/8"od X 1/2"id bearings, still in the box, sitting right there in the trash! Freebie! Once the stock wheel centers were removed, I found some hose clamps that I cut down to make rings that ended up being the perfect "press fit" into the stock wheels. The wheels spin straighter than I ever would have expceted, but still have some run-out that will definitely affect the front brakes. I might try pressing the bearings some more, or using a lathe and a torch, straighten the wheels as much as possible. Never thought retaining the plastic wheels could ever have been so involved!

Progress was great today! I got most of the frame measured, cut, bent, and tacked in place. The warmer weather is definitely speeding up progress! Kind of funny, but during the last tack weld tonight,my welder ran out of wire! Perfect timing! Only thing left is the smaller stuff, like a roll bar hoop behind the seat, fuel tank mounts, couple body mount tabs, rear bumper mount, welding the gussets, motor mount, and final welding. Should have everything completely welded and the frame in primer by next weekend. Next will be body mods and prep.

Tub cut out and axle rough fitted for mock up. As its looking right now, the engine will fit mostly inside the rear bumper as I intended, but the passenger seat will have to be completely cut out. Ride height will still need to be set before final welding and roll bar/ seat hoop still needs to be fabricated.

After a ton of measuring, the axle was finally welded in place. Modified spindles with grade 8, 1/2" socket cap bolts welded in place. Camber, a touch of caster and ride height were all set. While making clearance for the engine and exhaust, due to a lack of space, a handmade tubular intake manifold will need to be fabricated before the engine can be mounted. Stay tuned...

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Axle welded in place.

Aligned the axle to the body and frame while lowering the car even more.

So, hopefully all the machining needed for this build is done. The original engine sprocket was made for a TF8F metric chain. I set everything else up for #35 go kart chain. Apparently, the ribe/spline pattern used on imported 49cc engine sprockets doesn't exist in terms of standard #35 kart sprockets. So after machining, drilling and welding, it now exists. The engine is in limbo until I decide on the best mounting while allowing for chain adjustment, exhaust placement, and body clearance. Engine and exhaust should be done by this weekend. Still need to find some kind of chain tensioner so the engine won't need to be moved for chain adjustment.

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left: #35 kart sprocket. right: engine sprocket.

engine sprocket with teeth ground off and new kart sprocket bored out, milled in half and holes drilled.

Great work, the chassis looks awesome! Your giving me juice to keep going on m rzr project! I have one of those little 50cc's too from a pocket bike. I had the same idea as you, but decided to do something off road. Those pocket bike motors are stronger then you think. It hauled my 200lb butt around pretty well. Those plastic tires arent going to last long! Again great work!

Thanks. I also figured the rear wheels won't hold up very long so I already have a plan. Search youtube for "drift trikes". They are using large diameter PVC and inflating pneumatic tires inside. I don't have tires to inflate, but I do have the small indentions where the traction bands used to be. Thinking I might cut a 2" slice off large PVC pipe and put a slit in it so I can pull it over the wheels. Maybe some glue or counter sunk screws to hold the "drift bands" in place. The hunt for the perfect PVC pipe has now begun.

Neat idea, looking forward to what you find. BTW where did you find the machinable sprocket? I have the same issue with my project. The swingarm I am using has a 520 sprocket with a odd bolt pattern. With the 212cc HF motor I can only find hilliard clutches with 420 engine sprockets. I am looking for a machinable 420 sprocket to adapt to the axle. Out of curiosity also what axle are you using? Is it a standard cart axle setup?

Yeah, drift trikes are awesome! I only hope this corvette will give them a run for their money! Jornum1, the sprocket I machined was a run of the mill, 3/4" keywayed engine or "jack shaft" sprocket for #35 chain. I had it laying around in the garage but ebay or northern sells pretty much the same thing.The 420 sprockets are actually more common and offer a wider variety of bolt patterns and hub styles that could be closer to what you need. Ebay has tons. The axle I'm using is a seamless, 1" hollow pipe, 1/8" thick. Steel suppliers or fab shops. Other hollow "racing kart" axles I found online were expensive and had very limited sizes. I then used 3/4 OD X 1/2 ID bar stock that is used in race cars for making spacers, collars, and bushings for heim joints or shock mounts. Jegs or Ebay should carry it in all different lengths. The final piece is just a standard 1/2" threaded rod to index the wheels. Everything else is "off the shelf" racing go kart parts via Ebay. Hope that helps.

Thanks Cheap, I pulled the axle apart to take a better look at the sprocket hub and found inspiration thinking about how your adapted your crank sprocket. The OD the 520 sprocket is smaller then the OD of the standard 420 sprocket. So I turned a adapter and will just locate, drill, and press new studs into the hub for the 420 sprockets. Actually ended up being really easy. I posted pics in my thread. Just wanted to give you some props for giving me the idea!

I think the hardest part is finally done. More of the body had to be cut out and engine had to be repositioned due to alignment and space constraints. Engine mount was finished and tacked in place. The exhaust roughly mocked up. I decided an automatic chain tensioner will work perfectly. Once the tensioner is mounted above the chain, it will save space, ease in quick gear changes, and keep the engine stationary. No more constantly sliding the engine back to tension the chain. I'm starting to consider adding some rear fender flares just for looks.(not pictured) Next will be seat mounting, rear bumper mounting, fuel cell mounting, and pedals.

Pretty good progress today. Rear trunk vent and custom intake manifold wrapped up. Next will be the auto tensioner for the chain and exhaust system. The fuel tank is being tig welded this week that will fit inside the passenger quarter panel. Hopefully we will be ready for a test run in about 2 weeks. Still up in the air about going fully radio controlled...

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3/8 square box steel bent into compound curves to fit the trunk.

Framework for the rear vent welded up.

Hard to see in the pics, but the complexity of the bends were a test of my patience and very time consuming.

Framework mocked underneath the cut out trunk.

Perforated stainless steel cut to size.

Still need to figure out the spoiler mounts working with the quick release rear bumper.

Rough version of the intake manifold.

Longer intake runner length should yield a higher top end and less bottom end torque, which should help with wheel spin off the line.

So we got the spoiler mounted finally. Perforated stainless steel rear panel riveted to steel frame. Rear bumper quick release pins mounted but still need to be welded to the frame. Inner doors cut out for weight and space. Fuel tank rough mock up. Considering moving the brake rotor to the passenger side and lowering the driver seat for a better center of gravity. Started shaving the quarter panel maker lights. Hopefully in the next few weeks we will be ready for a test drive and post a video of it actually moving!

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Stainless steel panel riveted.

Spoiler mounts modified, cut down, and complete.

Rear bumper assembly,

Entire assembly easily removed for starting, service, and repairs.

Quick release hood/bumper pins done.

Looks kinda mean without the doors!

Possible rib protectors and safety shields mocked up on the current seat. Still undecided.