Contributed Comments

Comments: Great climb, especially the 3rd pitch. 2nd pitch is a short traversing 2 move 10c rather painful crimp. the 3rd pitch is glorious, really doesn't seem like a move over 5.9, but continuous and steep in space. Well worth doing. Last pitch has a scary block you have to step on, but its still there so probably will be for a while longer.

Comments: This route actually does not share the first two bolts with the adjacent route, but instead starts on the thin crack on gear just south of the oak tree. Much nicer start and more in line. One of the best routes at the crag in my opinion. Don't cheat left at the finish, their are great crimps if you look. Also, don't use the detached block in the crack at the overhanging finish for hand or foot holds, it will go some day.

Comments: Blownout Direct is currently the best approach for Blownout. There is poison oak to either side, but not on the route. The 2nd pitch of Blownout is only 95 feet long, not 120, you can lower off from the top anchors back to the belay with a 60 meter. One of the bolts at the midpoint anchor(the one on the right) appears to be compromised, as it moves when weighted.

Comments: This is one of the classic pitches at Beacon Rock. Solid but well spaced gear, interesting and varied movement, and it allows a shortcut to the SE corner if someone else has gotten to the start before you. Well worth taking a whirl on. Don't forget the stoppers for the first half!

Comments: Leading the 2nd pitch of Dods Jam it says here you don't need any big pieces, but that is inaccurate. You can feather in some small stuff in the back of the crack but its questionable. Much better to just bring a #4 and #5 for bomber placements in the offwidth section and run it out IMO, then a bunch of crappy small gear.

Comments: Area 51 Rocks! There are some sweet climbs here as well as some mungy ones. But because there are so many, you can be picky. The Mothership Wall is great hard sport climbing. There are many other hard clean lines. Well worth a few visits. Enjoy the solitude!