This Is How Donatella Versace Upgrades Her Signature Black Eye

“Hello! You have any colors for me?” Donatella Versace said with a coy grin. The larger-than-life designer was backstage at the Milano Congressi complex, where the house’s Fall 2017 show unfolded today, bantering playfully with hairstylist Guido Palau.

She was referring to the electric extensions placed beautifully in some models’ hair, then paired with a graphic black eye, artistically rendered by Pat McGrath with three types of black pigment—grease, pencil, and powder. It was, McGrath explained, an “aerodynamic version” of Donatella’s own heavy black liner. “It’s graphic, strong, very Donatella,” she said. “She’s the inspiration, always,” Palau added, of the designer’s iconic hair and makeup. “How could she not be—this is what it’s all about!”

Yet look closer, and there was something different about Versace—had she suddenly deviated from her signature look? In response, she batted her eyes, revealing a flash of bronze sparkle on the center of each lid. It was a dab of microfine Flesh glitter from Pat McGrath’s Lust 004 Lip Kit, cleverly repurposed for the eye with Black 002 eye gloss around it. “All Pat McGrath!” she said, beaming. Could that offhand sparkle inspire next season? Here’s hoping.