Description

This is the easiest route at the Sex Cave. It goes at 12d if you use the "scary block" beta for the moves between bolts 2 and 3, keeping this section at 5.11. Or you can bypass this hold which requires a 5.12 move that adds to the overall difficulty of the route (5.13a). The "scary block" is not all that scary and couldn't come out unless you go up there with a crowbar, but since there is a reference to it in the guide I thought it should be mentioned.

Head Like a Hole is quite a sustained route, with a very tricky clipping crux near the end of the cave section, followed by a slightly runout 12a/b finish on the face. Falling here will only result in a great swing due to the overhang, but the runout does make you think a little bit. Overall a worthy route that will keep you on your toes.

GEAR ALERT: I started work on Head Like a Hole last week. The long sling at the end of the cave has a wire gate biner that was continuously opening as I moved above the crux section. I replaced it with my own draw. If this is your draw I will re-replace it upon my completion of the route. As of right now it hangs on the second bolt of Stone Cold Modern. Furthermore, the biner on the chain draw was very difficult to clip and stuck open a few times. I have replaced this with my own biner. The biner I replaced is on the bolt that the chain draw hangs from. I will also re-replace this biner upon completion of the route. Furthermore I have x-ed a block that was used for clipping the second bolt. I was using it to clip from and it did not move for some time. On one burn I used it as a foot and noticed that it jiggled significantly. As result the X. This makes clipping in this section rather difficult as it cannot be reached from below and if climbed above risks a nasty ground fall. I plan on stick clipping myself.

BETA: This is the beta I've worked out on Head Like a Hole. It still needs work and I would appreciate any insights or technique. This might be tall-man beta as I'm six foot and plus two. I believe the beta for the traverse through the roof to be relatively self-evident. Keep your feet low and find the best slopers to clip from, they are there. CRUX. Upon moving through a rail of the worst slopers on HLAH there will be a vertical slot. Right foot down and right from this hold. Slightly mantle to rest on this right foot and clip. Bring left hand down to sloper next to slot-jug. Left foot out left (tick-marked), drop-knee and gaston a sloper on the arete. Heel hook by right hand on a sloper. Slap/squeeze a crimp that opposes the gaston a foot and a half left and slightly down. Match feet. Right foot walks through to a knee scum on the arete (wear pants or a pad). Bump to a decent clipping jug. Drop left foot entirely and clip. Left foot match. Right foot on previously used gaston and rock over on the right foot. Right hand to a shallow finger lock (pinky catch if you can). Bump left hand to a decent jug. Stand up. Left hand on the arete and bump as high as you can. Flip the finger lock to a good undercling pinch. Right foot on the clipping jug below. Stand up and set left foot on a pebble on the corner of the arete. Right hand toss to the right side of the now double arete. Left heel hook and left hand releases to a decent crimp by the anchors. Either clip here or more your feet up again to achieve a slopey jug.

Finished the route. The questionable draw with orange sling and pink gate biner now hangs above the first crux on stone cold modern. The other biner still hangs on the chain. Another group has placed a draw and a biner where mine used to be.

Great route. It's not any harder if you don't use the "loose block" at the bottom. Packs a punch as all the business is towards the end, and it's steeper than it looks! Very solid at the grade, more difficult than several other 13s in the canyon in my opinion.