WATER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMThe water distribution system consists of an upper andlower spray arm, upper (spray) arm delivery tube, filter,soil director, pump, sump, and check ball. The systemis designed to operate only one spray arm at a time.During the first wash and first and second rinses, onlythe lower spray arm operates. In the second wash, thirdand fourth rinses the spray arms alternate about every90 seconds.This alternating of the spray arms is achieved with acheck ball located on a ramp between two outlets of thepump. There is an outlet to the bottom spray arm and anoutlet to the upper arm delivery tube. In the normalposition the ball is at the bottom of the ramp, in front ofthe opening to the upper arm deliveryWhen the pump starts, the force of the water pushes theball to block the opening to the upper arm delivery tube.Not all of the water is blocked however. The opening isconstructed to allow a small amount of water to bypassthe ball and enter the tube, and fills the tube at a rate ofapproximately four inches a second. At the same time,the outlet to the lower spray arm is open, so the lowerspray arm operates. When the pump stops, the pressureis removed from the ball and the water flows down thetube, forcing the ball up the ramp and against the outletto the lower spray arm. If the pump remains off for morethan 3 seconds, all the water in the tube escapes andthe ball returns to the bottom of the ramp. But, if thepump is started in less than .6 seconds, the water fromthe upper arm delivery tube is still forcing the ball up theramp against the outlet to the lower spray arm. Theforce of the water from the pump continues to hold theball against the outlet to the lower spray arm whichleaves the outlet to the upper arm delivery tube open.When the ball is in this position only the upper spray armoperates. This momentary stopping of the pump iscontrolled by the control board.Another unique feature of the water distribution systemis the two cavities of the sump. One cavity providesfiltered water to the pump for recirculation through thespray arms. The other, called a quiet water cavity,allows soil to collect in the area of the macerator blade,where it is held until the drain pump removes it.

Now that is an answer I can understand, Domain. Not sure it is the best principle to have this type of system, but it least I feel better that it could be the reason I have not seen the top two arms move during the service test mode. I will give it a quick look during a real complete run.

Getting ready to give the jet dry dishwasher cleaner bottle a second chance so I will have a time during the second 21 minute wash cycle. I will also check the water temp during that same cycle. I do know that the heater element test okay and does get a little hot during the service mode which is very short. The door vent was an issue, but is working correctly with the "new" parts from a junked unit from my friend. I forgot to mention that we have very hard water here in my neck of the woods "city" due to limestone mainly. I have heard that running some CLR in the dishwasher would be helpful, is this true? I installed a water softener last year mostly for the dishwasher. So the hard water should not be an issue anymore other than build up(I no longer use fabric softener and towels are just as soft) and I have the setting on the softener very low so getting soap off should be okay.

Side note, is there a better way to test for correct water softness? I have been using the free test strips from the salt pellet companies but really do not like the so, so readings. Check valve flap was deformed and replaced from that junked parts unit. Any reason it could have gotten damaged in which I should be looking for the cause? I think the valve letting back in dirty water in the drain tube could have been my biggest issue, so thanks Bailey. BTW, just in case I did not make it clear the bottom sprayer arm spins and makes a lot of water noise, so the pump and impeller looks to be okay. I will give an update on the water temp and if the wax plug melts and releases the dishwasher cleaner. Let me know what you all think about the other detail please. Thanks

Details of last run:*Took 135 minutes to reach Dry cycle (91.5 minutes is what the chart shows) [Had hi-temp option on, seen long HO (water heating delays)]*1 1/2 minutes shy of 2 hours told time.*Temperature was near 110 at the end of last cycle (using infrared tester which reads incoming temp at 130) [I had tried to read the stream of water in the faucet, but got a better reading in a glass]*Non-visible steam from vent which measured 94 (Inside temp 67, outside temp 55, dew point 49, humidity outside 82%, inside humidity 30% according to a low cost reader) [Was able to see steam in the past]*I was able to hear different water patterns which makes me believe that all sprayer arms were working, but this is just a guess.*The dishes look clean (a couple of plates had a grain of grit here and there), but the glasses on the top rack (upside down so no standing water) have that gritty dirt of many colors as you can hopefully see in the attached photo.

Still in need of help guys. Did everyone fall of the face of the earth. I am trying to get this crappy dishwasher fixed before the wife comes back from business trip. I hope I have not overloaded anyone with information, but I am someone who likes as much info as possible when fixing anything. Going to make sure the drain pump works when it should in the cycle but that is a pain to babysit the dishwasher for a 2 hour period. BTW, what should be the max distance between dishwasher and sink drain? Do not have the complete distance at this moment but the drain hose comes the far right of the dishwasher, through one set of wide drawers to the left side of a good size double sink (countertop mounted air gap) and then back to right bowl through a disposal which drains to the left bowl which is the sink drain. Just more info to muddy the waters, no pun intended. Thanks again for any help is getting this issue solve before I have to buy another dishwasher.

Water pressure has always been a concern of mine. Newer neighborhood with 5/8 water mains, 62 psi at hose spigot, drops to 42 when the second hose spigot is turned on. Increased the water line (1/2") to dishwasher included a good size hose to dishwasher. Bottom sprayer sprays easily to the top of the dishwasher. Water temp as stated in my earlier post is 130 coming in, but not so much after it comes into the dishwasher. Getting ready to run a load with nothing but a couple of clean glasses to see if even then they come out dirty (with no dirty dishes) and I can time the drain cycles. I will give adding a gallon of water a try as well. I have always wondered what the correct water level should. It never trips the overflow sensor, which is likely normal. Thanks for the input grkeener.