Moroccan Culture Part Of Meal In `Marrakech`

May 21, 1986

When the waiter set the tass on the Arabic-patterned brass table, the Budget Diner knew this would be a lesson in Moroccan culture, not just a meal. A waiter instructed the diners to wash their hands in the water poured from the tass, an ornate water vessel. Only then, he explained, would his guests be prepared to eat.

The music wails continuously and the embroidered velvet banquette, or bench, complements a tented ceiling inside the Marrakech Restaurant. Scantily dressed belly dancers bump-and-roll on Friday and Saturday nights, but the only bellybutton exposed on weeknights is on a statue of a buxom female in a three- tiered fountain by the door.

All this takes place in the tiny storefront restaurant a few steps from Federal Highway traffic in Fort Lauderdale.

At the suggestion of the ever-helpful waiter, the Budget Diner ordered the African country`s national dish called couscous, served with slices of juicy chicken and vegetables and raisins. Couscous is steamed wheat semolina that the Budget Diner found a bit bland. The chicken was so tender it fell off the bone. Cost of the meal was $10.50.

Tajine lamb with almonds and Oriental rice, $10.95, was the guest`s choice. The almonds enhanced the flavor of the tender meat for a not-too-spicy dish. Both diners shared a bowl of soup haira, a thick soup of lamb stock, tomatoes, chick peas, lentils and spices. One bowl costs $1.95.

Total cost of the meal, including a $1.75 cup of black turkish coffee with cinnamon, was $25.90, including tax. The dishes were medium-sized portions; the cost of the ambiance and entertainment is obviously included in the menu prices.

Other menu offerings include fatima`s fingers -- rolls of spiced, lean beef wrapped in crisp pastry with a wedge of lemon -- as a $2.95 appetizer. Merguez -- spicy beef sausages -- are $3.95. Entrees are brochettes of lamb, beef, chicken and fish broiled on skewers and served with Oriental rice. These dishes range from $8.95 to $9.95.

With 24 hours advance notice, the chef can prepare three, two-person specialty dinners such as lamb roasted on a spit, pastry pie stuffed with chicken and almonds, or marinated fish. Prices range from $24 to $29.

Guaranteed to satisfy any sweets-lover is Moroccan pastry, a crisp pastry filled with almonds and dipped in honey, for $1.75. Lastshin, fresh sliced oranges sprinkled with cinnamon and orange water, is $1.75.