Graft copolymerization of MMN4-VP onto cotton fiber using Ce(IV) salt as an initiator and triton X-100 as an emulsifier was performed under various polymerization conditions. In cograft polymerization, the polymeization behavior according to variation of 4-VP feed composition and the characteristics of MMA/4-VP graft polymer such as affinity for acid dye owing to cationization of cotton, antibacterial activity and thermal behavior were investigated. The results of this study were as follows : 1. While in copolymerization of MMA and 4-VP, 4-VP content in copolymer was more than that of monomer feed composition. 2. Increasing 4-VP content, graft yield was decreased, but graft efficiency was increased. In case of MMA/4-VP graft polymerization, the highest graft yield was obtained at higher CAN concentration than in MMA graft polymerization, the reason is that the behavior of 4-VP was disturbed by Ce(IV) sail 3. Elevation of temperature resulted in increase of graft yield and the apparent activation energy of MMA/4-VP graft polymerization was higher than that of MMA graft polymerization. 4. MMA/4-VP grafted cotton fiber showed affinity for acid dye, antibacterial activity and higher moisture regain than MMA grafted cotton fiber. MMA/4-VP grafted cotton fabric showed improvement of wrinkle recovery up to 40~50% graft yield and decreased thereafter. MMA/4-VP and MMA grafted cotton fabric did not showed significant difference in wrinkle recovery and stiffness.

The purpose of this study was to classify college women according to the general life style, to examine the differences in the characteristics of time consumption, and clothing purchasing behavior, and ultimately to verify the importance of the time variable in life style analysis. 449 subjects were gathered through convenience sampling method and, frequency, precentage, average, -test, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis were conducted for data analysis. Results of the study were as follows : 1. College women were classified into five subgroups by cluster analysis : fashion-pursuit group, home-intended group, outer-intended group, conservative-economy group, and passive-inactive group. 2. In case of time consumption patterns, significant differences were found according to the different groups in patronage of library and extra off-campus educational programs, participation in household duties, consumption patterns of leisure time and participation in clubs. 3. In case of clothing purchasing behavior, significant differences were found according to the different groups in clothing purchasing motives, information sources, purchasing plan, the number of visited stores, and the confirmation of labels.

The objectives of this study were to classify the contents of clothing image preferences of Korean and American students, and to examine how clothing image preferences vary according to sex role identity, sex, and culture. A woman's clothing image preference inventory and the Bem Sex Role Inventory were administered to 127 Korean students and 116 American students. Sex role idendity was classified into androgynous, masculine, feminine, and undifferentiated type. 1. Four segments of woman's clothing image preference derived by factor analysis : F. 1 'splendid-plain' ; F. 2 'feminine-masculine' ; F. 3 'casual-formal' ; F. 4 'classic-contemporary'. 2. Americans prefered splendid image more than did Koreans. Androgynous-typed males liked splendid image most among American male subjects. 3. There was interaction effect between sex and culture on feminine-masculine image preference. In Korean students, males liked feminine image much more than did females. Masculine-typed females liked masculine image most among American female subjects. 4. Koreans prefered casual image more than did Americans. 5. There was interaction effect between sex role identity, sex, and culture() on classic-contemporary image preference. Feminine-typed females liked classic image most among Korean female subjects. 6. Korean males especially prefered luxurious image least. Korean females contemporary most, American males sexy most, American females fashionable most among four subject groups. That is, differences on clothing image preferences were found according to sex role identity, sex, and culture.

Effect of interfacial electrical conditions on adhesion of particles to PET fabric and the removal of particles from PET fabric, were investigated as functions of pH, electrolyte and ionic strength. The potential of PET fiber and particles in the electrolyte solution were measured by streaming potential and microelectrophoresis methods respectively. The potential energy of interaction between particles and PET fabric were calculated by using the heterocoagulation theory for a sphere-plate model. The negative potential of particle and PET fiber increased with pH, and then decreased certain pH and isoelectric points of particles and PET fiber were pH 6.5 and pH 3.5, respectively. The negative potential of particle and PET fiber affected by electrolytes, were relatively high with polyanion electrolytes in solutions and were low with neutral salts. However, at surfactant solution, potential was levelled off. The influence of the ionic strength on the potential of particle was small but the negative potential of PET fiber increased with the ionic strength. In the presence of anionic surfactant, the potential of particle and PET fiber increased regardless of solution conditions. The interaction energy between particle and PET fabric increased with pH. The interaction energy was relatively high with polyanion electrolytes in solution, and the influence of ionic strength on the interaction energy was small, and the effective thickness of electrical double layer increased with decreasing the ionic strength.

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference()between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the thermoregulatory responses to postures under different environmental conditions and to obtain the basal information for standard clothing weight, indoor climates, and working condition. Two adult female (22.5yrs, 46kg) were participated in this study. The experimental conditions were divided into three groups ; 1) comfort(, ), 2) hot(, ), and 3) cold(, ) condition. The postures performed were as follows; standing, sitting on the chair, sitting on the floor, and supine on the floor. At each condition, subjective sensations, 12 points skin temperature, rectal temperature, total and local sweat rate, pulse rates, blood pressure, skin blood flow rate were measured. The results were as follows : 1. Rectal temperature was high significant among groups in order of supine, sitting on the floor, sitting on the chair, standing posture(p<0.01). 2. Skin temperature was high in part of contact with the surface of the floor or wall and the effect of posture was greater in peripheral temperature than torso temperature. Sitting on the chair and sitting on the floor posture showed higher peripheral temperature than standing and supine posture. And peripheral temperature was lower in supine posture than any other postures. 3. Total and local sweat rate were decreased in order of standing, sitting on the chair, sitting on the floor, supine posture. 4. Pulse rate and disastolic blood pressure were higher in standing posture than supine posture, and there was significant difference between two postures(p<0.001). 5. Blood flow rate of thigh was high in sitting on the chair and sitting on the floor posture and low in standing posture. Blood flow rate of leg was low in standing posture significantly(p<0.01). 6. In comfort and hot condition, temperature sensation and comfort sensation were higher in standing posture and lower in supine posture than any other postures. In cold condition, temperature sensation was lower and comfort sensation was higher in standing and supine posture than any other postures. And supine posture was appeared positive in hot condition and negative in cold condition. From this study, we confirmed the effects of posture on human thermoregulatory responses. Results indicate that even under same conditions and clothing weight, the insulation of clothing will be different to postures.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about clothing texture, the state of wearing and the method of presentation. The data from observation were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, Scheffe test and MCA. The results of this study were as follows ; 1. 17 pairs of discriptors used for the visual evaluation of clothing stimuli were found to include four factor dimensions(total variance 65.6%) ; Attention, Appearance, Texture, Maturity. 2. For the image of clothing texture, there were significant differences in the attention and texture. 3. For the image of the state of wearing, there were significant differences in the attention and appearance. 4. For the image of the method of presentation, there were significant differences in the clothing texture and the state of wearing. 5. According to clothing texture, the state of wearing and the method of presentation, the interaction effect was significant in the attention and appearance.

This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespearean tragedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term "role" has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the Costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The sitution role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one's status, thereby makes possible acting others position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of status, age, sex, occupation, and atmosphere. The costume could be used as a voucher of love. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the custom of a society through its wearing condition and wearing configuration. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.

The purpose of this study was to study real body size and ideal body shape by consoidering the degree of satisfaction at body part and understanding body size by the degree of leanness/obesity. The subjects in this study were 201 female college students aged from 18 to 26. Boby measurements and survey were taken from May to June, 1991 and 1992. Data were analyzed by correlation analysis, regression analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, discriminant analysis and crosstabulation analysis. The results were as follows ; 1. The subjects tended to be satisfied with long and slim limbs, slim trunk, and prefered to be tall in height and light in weight. Also the consciousness about thickness was keener than that about length of the body. 2. The subjects were conscious that lower body was more obese than and upper body. Also, the consciousness of whole body had higher correlation with that of upper body than lower body. 3. The subjects were classified into 4 clusters each consisting 23, 87. 68, 23 by cluster analysis of 21 variables after a transformation of measurements to eliminate body size factor. This classification was considered to express how lean or how obese a human body appears. 4. According to the degree of leanness/obesity from lean tendency group I to obese tendency group IV, characteristics of the body shape were changed as follows ; height lower, limbs shorter, trunk and limbs thicker and weight heavier. 5. The subjects of lean tendency group I were more satisfied with their body than those of obese tendency group IV. 6. The subjects, although they were not judged to be obese by somatometric measurements, felt themselves obese. Also, they hoped to be slimmer at lower body than upper body.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

This study carried out to get some fundamental data for designing lightweight bedding. In This study, the wool blanket, polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt were manufactured with a varied materials, structural factors such as yam count, fabric density respectivelyarn. And also, the thermal insulation value of the bedding were measured by warmth retaining tester. In addition, this paper examines the influence of varying materials, structural factors and blanket layers on the thermal insulation effect of the bedding. The main results obtained from this study are as follow : 1. The design of lightweight blankets make an attempting with a varying materials and structural factors such as yam count, fabric densityarn. 2. Almost, the design of lightweight blankets for polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt make an attempting without reduction in thermal insulation values. 3. The 6 layers of blanket have less thermal insulation value than the 6 times of blanket for under a layer have. About 27~32% decrease is observed in thermal insulation value of blanket for under 6 layer. 4. The thermal insulation value and areal weight of blankets have a positive relation between the thermal insulation value(Y) and areal weight(X) is based on the following equation. wool blanket : Y = 1.0850X + 0.4188 (r = 0.9992) PIC blended blanket : Y = 0.8845X + 0.3034 (r = 0.9999)

Even though modem ideal body type is rather tall and slim one, most of women don't coincide with it exactly. The objective of this research was to study the optical illusion effect of clothing design line so that average Korean women can approach the modern ideal body type. This research also tried to show the more scientific method to make stimulus by computer simulation and to present quantitative data. For the experiment, 9 design variables were selected from design principal book as follows : waistline level, skirt length, horizontal line emphasis, vertical line emphasis. princess line, vertical stripe, horizontal stripe, diagonal stripe. Each variable was divided into 4 levels so that 36 experimental designs were made. Visual stimuli which same model was wearing each design were recreated by the CAD system. These were given to evaluating panels through slide projecter. Then panels compared experimental design with basic design by 'tall effect' and 'slim effect', All the data from the experiment were analyszed by ANOVA and DUNCAN test for multiple comparison to study significance, direction(positive or negative), degree, proper extent of optical illusion effect. The result showed that some designs have optical illusion effect to make better look. In addition, it proved that the stronger design variable does not mean the more optical illusion effect and there was proper extent which produce the best illusion effect in each design variable.

The influences of protease on the removal of various protein soils from cotton fabrics were studied. The human epidermal stratum corneum, hemoglobin and casein were used as protein soils. The soiled fabrics were denatured by steaming for 30 min. before washing and laundered using Terg-O-Tometer under washing conditions. The removal efficiency was evaluated by analysis of protein on the fabrics before and after washing by means of copper-Folin method. The relations between the removal and the characteristics of protease were discussed. Also the degradation of protein were examined by microscopy. The seperation of human epidermal stratum corneum after hydrolysis was examined by SDS-PAGE. The results obtained were as follow : 1. The protein from the soiled cotton fabric was removed effectively by adding protease. The removal of protein was increased in proportion to increasing of the enzyme concentration up to a certain point, but it began to decrease above the point. The removal effect was high in the order of casein>human epidermal stratum corneum>hemoglobin. Especially the protein was more effectively removed in ADS solution(pH 9.5) containing enzyme. 2. When protease was used with ADS. the removal of protein was efficiently showed in relatively short time(5~15min.) compared to using ADS only. It is due to the properties of this enzyme that reacts with very short time. 3. Even at low temperature the removal efficiency of enzyme was relatively higher compared with the activity of enzyme. The removal of protein soil was increased up to a maximum near , and then decreased. 4. The removal of protein by protease was improved with the increase of alkalinity in the pH range from 9.5 to 11.0 but it began to decrease above pH 11.0. 5. According to the increase of mechanical agitation, the removal effect was increased. But the removal efficiency of protease was more effective compared with the agitation in detergency. 6. According to the SDS-PAGE separation and micrograph it was confirmed that the human epidermal corneum was effectively hydrolysed by the enzyme added. So the fragments of protein were removed more efficiently by means of the interfacial reaction of AOS.