If you will be purchasing ANY AT&T services online or in store could you mention that you were referred by me? My Employee Referral ID is eo4489. This would be a great help and it costs you nothing, thank you!

Yep, thanks for the heads up - well aware of it. Studs break too. Centerlocks are no more/less safe than conventional studs if you use them correctly. A giant PITA - yes, I think I have the morning torque/inspection procedure down to 25min. The biggest issue I have found is bleeding brakes without the car completely in the air (you have to compress the brakes to remove a nut...) but with SRF, this process is a once a year deal.

Progression of learning the car, and the difference between <10 heat cycles on hoosiers and more than 10. Best lap time was on BFG R1s...right before I realized a rear tire has going flat...new wheel was leaking.

I made the same decision a few months ago. Have been to one skills day and two winter track days. Car is so much fun but need more practice. Car almost all sorted out now with suspension, diff., steel brakes, bar and harnesses.

Make sure you get a good alignment and corner balance on those. From what other GT3 drivers have told me (not GT3 RS, but still); Porsche assumes the car will be set up by a race shop with the owner in the driver's seat, so they don't do anything but a rudimentary alignment and no corner balance.

Make sure you get a good alignment and corner balance on those. From what other GT3 drivers have told me (not GT3 RS, but still); Porsche assumes the car will be set up by a race shop with the owner in the driver's seat, so they don't do anything but a rudimentary alignment and no corner balance.

BTW: I want

Yes, when you get one of these cars you are not done. I have done bar and harnesses, suspension (removed the rubber), differential, replaced ceramic brakes with Brembo rotors and Pagid pads, and 18" wheel with familiar track rubber. Will take me a while before I feel as comfortable as I was with the M3 which I had for 5 seasons. But went to the track today and this car is so much fun!

Make sure you get a good alignment and corner balance on those. From what other GT3 drivers have told me (not GT3 RS, but still); Porsche assumes the car will be set up by a race shop with the owner in the driver's seat, so they don't do anything but a rudimentary alignment and no corner balance.

BTW: I want

haha - I learned that the hard way. The first setup on the car was scary - I really thought I made a big mistake going this route.

Nice! I seen your video and when you stated that you don't realize how fast you are going, it appears to be true just by watching your video until I looked at the speedometer and was like wow. Congrats!

Really sweet cars. 1.2-1.3g in the turns. Sick. I was surprised to see max of about 1g under braking. Maybe the track doesn't require a lot of braking, but I would routinely see 1.2g in my '95M3. Lots of weight transfer helped with the engine over the braking wheels. P-cars are different, but they could usually always out-brake me on open track days. Had to be careful not to get too close to their backside coming up to a turn.

What's the deal with removing the ceramic brakes? Are they crap on the track?

Really sweet cars. 1.2-1.3g in the turns. Sick. I was surprised to see max of about 1g under braking. Maybe the track doesn't require a lot of braking, but I would routinely see 1.2g in my '95M3. Lots of weight transfer helped with the engine over the braking wheels. P-cars are different, but they could usually always out-brake me on open track days. Had to be careful not to get too close to their backside coming up to a turn.

What's the deal with removing the ceramic brakes? Are they crap on the track?

Yeah, TWS is not that hard on brakes - but to be honest I'm probably not braking as hard as I could.

Four issues with ceramic

1) They cost $5000 for each rotor
2) They chip very easily, and once chipped, can lead to a failure - so need to be replaced.
3) They transfer more heat into the pads and fluid (the yellow calipers have a bunch of features, like ceramic pucks between the pads and pistons, to keep the heat out)
4) They chew through pads faster and rotors last about 2-3 times as long as OEM steel.

And as far as I can tell, as long as you don't overheat the steel rotors with race pads, which I have yet to do, the PCCBs offer no improvement in performance. NOW, I have not driven it on a brake heavy course. COTA at the BMW event in June will ultimately tell me the answer to this. Even if I did have a problem...I still don't think I would run PCCBs - they are just too baller for me. I put the PCCB rotors in the attic for the next owner.

Yeah, TWS is not that hard on brakes - but to be honest I'm probably not braking as hard as I could.

Four issues with ceramic

1) They cost $5000 for each rotor
2) They chip very easily, and once chipped, can lead to a failure - so need to be replaced.
3) They transfer more heat into the pads and fluid (the yellow calipers have a bunch of features, like ceramic pucks between the pads and pistons, to keep the heat out)
4) They chew through pads faster and rotors last about 2-3 times as long as OEM steel.

And as far as I can tell, as long as you don't overheat the steel rotors with race pads, which I have yet to do, the PCCBs offer no improvement in performance. NOW, I have not driven it on a brake heavy course. COTA at the BMW event in June will ultimately tell me the answer to this. Even if I did have a problem...I still don't think I would run PCCBs - they are just too baller for me. I put the PCCB rotors in the attic for the next owner.