Basic Crossover & Capacitor Questions?

Got it, well that is a huge help having a second pair of crossovers setup for the rebuild no doubt. Yeah I would just suggest build them the right way off the bat, and simply wait to get all the funding together then.

Due to at least AR used point to point back in the day not on a tiny PC board with computer parts you should be able to move things around on there it looks like to get away with this pretty easily even if you have to stack a couple caps or something.

By the way I was not advocating you need Bi-wire at all, that won't really help you in this case, I was just illustrating the issues you could run into if deciding to try and do this internally of the speaker was all. But due to the type of boards you have I think now you might be okay. Only other thing is the capacitance values on some of those caps will cost a fortune no matter what you do

That is if you plan to try and use any more advanced film caps. Again you did not really give an absolute budget so your going to have difficulty getting much more help on that end.

Even with reasonable priced parts, beyond something very bottom end like Solen which you mentioned earlier, I think your looking at anywhere from 100 to 150 per speaker, for the pair $200 to $300 total. If you really like what these speakers already do than it should be worth it as they really are probably not much different from much more expensive speakers made today accept the advances in crossover parts. You would likely be happy with them. However, if your tryin to do this on a $50 dollar budget using as many 2 dollar caps, and 50 cent resistors as possible, I am not so sure you will be able to really justify the sound vs. cost in this case.

Once I set a task for myself, I usually push myself to see it through. So, I'll have to step back, and buy a little at a time. It's not like I don't have other speakers. The 90s aren't even my primary speakers. I just want to get them up and running again; it's been too long since I last played them.

Well, it's only been close to a year, but I finally got my capacitors ordered (and shipped)!!! (I selected the L1 Matching too). I had to wait a bit longer than expected, for a back injury to heal, so I can lug the speakers around, for the rebuild!

I followed Jeff's suggestions as closely as I could, since some of those recommendations are now unavailable. I just did my best guesses with those! Should be better than what I have now!

Basically, I ordered Mundorf EVO Oil caps for all the series values; 3.9 (4uF), 3.9+2.2 (6uF), 22+2.2 (24uF), and 33+47 (80uF). Where I varied, from the EVO Oil's, were with the 2.2uF capacitors. For the tweeter, I ordered a 2.2 Supreme, to parallel along with the 3.9 EVO Oil. For the 24, used on my upper midrange dome, I bought the 22 EVO Oil, and I'm paralleling that with a Supreme Silver/Oil 2.2, that I found through a friend. I would have ordered the 22 Supreme, but after seeing the 2.2 Supreme Silver/Oil, I don't think a 22 Supreme would have fit! Those things are huge!

I have Axon True Caps, for all of the parallel shunt values. Left overs from other projects. But, they let me order the better Mundorf's. Oh yea, I picked up matched pairs of Mills resistors too, through Sonic Craft, for the in circuit values (woofer and mid). I'll leave the level switch resistors in place for now. I'll wait until after burn-in, to see how those might need to be tweaked.

So, a big Thank You to Jeff and Sonic Craft! I appreciate all the guidance and suggestions. Plus, the great prices and easy ordering. I can't wait to get started on the refurb and rebuild, hopefully within a week or two. Nice weather expected. I'll be able to haul the cabinets outside for a light sanding, and some fresh oil.

Hurray...!!! The Mundorf capacitors have arrived! I'm psyched! I can't wait to get started.

*** Now, a question? How do the caps install? They're not polarized, but some have a short lead / long lead profile. Is the short side positive and long side negative? Help!

I've already stripped one speaker down, in order to start the refinish, and also to add Dynamat to the driver frames. I had already damped the lower midrange chambers, in both speakers, with a mixture of glue and sand. All the lower mids and woofers cones were doped too. I may add an additional brace front to rear, as the cabinets only had side to side braces. So, other than the refinish, not much else needed for the cabinets. The recap is the major and most important upgrade.

Well, I'm not sure what happened here, but I never received a notice of your post on the 24th?!@# Seems like that happens with this site from time to time.

In any event, thank you for your business, and your kind words I look forward to your results.

The supremes have no directional preference. The EVO shield is the short lead. I would wire the short lead toward the input in all series connections. Which I believe is the only way you are using them. If you were using any in the shunt or parallel position, I would wire the short lead to - .

The supremes have no directional preference. The EVO shield is the short lead. I would wire the short lead toward the input in all series connections. Which I believe is the only way you are using them. If you were using any in the shunt or parallel position, I would wire the short lead to - .