This dish, adapted from "Serious Pig" by John and Matt Lewis Thorne, uses potatoes cut "thick-thin": Cut lengthwise into triangular, steak-fry shapes, then crosswise into thin wedges whose pointy ends disintegrate just enough during cooking to help thicken the chowder.

Cook bacon in skillet over medium heat until crisp. Remove to paper towel to drain. Discard all but 1 tablespoon or so of bacon fat from pan; return to heat; stir in diced onion. Cook, until golden, 5 minutes. Set aside.

Break fish into flakes; add to potato mixture. Stir in milk and reserved bacon and onions. Remove from heat; let stand for up to 30 minutes. Return to low heat until warm; season with salt and pepper, pat of butter if desired.