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*Kicker* Factory Stereo info

Curious as to what the specs are on the gear that I have in my boat. From what I can tell is that it has Audio Package C with 2 bow Speakers, a sub, and a 5 channel amp. the Amp is the Kicker ZXM700.5. I had this amp in my last boat and it did really well. I haven't gotten a chance to really listen to this system yet but am hoping to shortly, as in this weekend.

The previous owner installed Wet Sounds Pro60s on the tower. I magine they were running the towers and the sub off the Amp and the cabin speakers off of the radio as there is only one amp in the boat that I have found.

I want to do a minor upgrade to the stereo until I can go all Wet Sounds maybe next year or probably the year after. I thought about adding a ZXM450.2 or 350.4 for the towers and then running everything else off the 700 like my previous boat. I had the Polk DB 650 cabin speakers, KMT6's, and a Kicker Comp VT 12 under the helm. It sounded pretty good.

Is the factory sub the KM10? Is it any good? What model are the cabins? Are they any good? What is the general opinion of the factory sub? I've seen a few of you have taken the factory box out so I guess it's safe to assume that the box isn't very good. I wasn't too impressed when they turned it on at the dealer. I thought to myself well, this boat is much nicer than my old one but my old system sure is better...

I have the MB quart stereo in right now but I have ordered the Kenwood KMR-550U head unit and 2 KCA-107MR remotes. They should be here Friday. As soon as I can brave it enough to start cutting I will put those in.

Other then the 2 in-boats in the bow, how many more in-boats do you have?

I think the OEM in-boats are either the KM6130 or the KM6200. I thnk they are basically the same speakers, just one is used for OEM. If there is a difference, I think its minor. Spec wise, they will sound fine on just head-unit power and I would not hesitate to feed them amplified power up to 75W.

The ZXM700.5 will easily power 4-6 in-boats with 210W available to a 4 ohm sub and 420W to a 2 ohm sub.

The KM10 is a very musical sub. Its a perfect match for the 210W from the ZXM700.5. Its a good sub to compliment 4-6 moderately powered in-boats. For those wanting more bass output would want to either add a 2nd KM10 or swap it for a 4 ohm DVC and take advantage of the available 420W.

Running the Pro60 bridged on the zxm700.5's full-range chnls = 165W to each. Decent power, but I think this amp is better suited to be used for the in-boats and sub. I think you are on the right track to consider the reconfigure.

I do not know what the specs are for the OEM sub enclosure. If any one know what the external dimensions are and the wall thickness, could you share? The enclosure and current amp settings will play a role in the overall sound and output. The in-boats will also be a huge improvement if they where amplified.

Other then the 2 in-boats in the bow, how many more in-boats do you have?

I think the OEM in-boats are either the KM6130 or the KM6200. I thnk they are basically the same speakers, just one is used for OEM. If there is a difference, I think its minor. Spec wise, they will sound fine on just head-unit power and I would not hesitate to feed them amplified power up to 75W.

The ZXM700.5 will easily power 4-6 in-boats with 210W available to a 4 ohm sub and 420W to a 2 ohm sub.

The KM10 is a very musical sub. Its a perfect match for the 210W from the ZXM700.5. Its a good sub to compliment 4-6 moderately powered in-boats. For those wanting more bass output would want to either add a 2nd KM10 or swap it for a 4 ohm DVC and take advantage of the available 420W.

Running the Pro60 bridged on the zxm700.5's full-range chnls = 165W to each. Decent power, but I think this amp is better suited to be used for the in-boats and sub. I think you are on the right track to consider the reconfigure.

I do not know what the specs are for the OEM sub enclosure. If any one know what the external dimensions are and the wall thickness, could you share? The enclosure and current amp settings will play a role in the overall sound and output. The in-boats will also be a huge improvement if they where amplified.

Thanks for the info...I have a total of 6 in boats. The Sub I had in my previous boat was a SVC 2 ohm (Comp VT12).
I'm pretty sure I know what I am going to do. Move the towers to a separate amp and then put the inboats on the 700. I just need to know about the factory sub enclosure to determine how to proceed with the sub options.

What would be the better option for the towers, the 350.2 or the 450.4? Or would a another amp be better.

I went to my local stereo guy today in search of a sub. He had in stock the marine rated 10inch sub enclosed in a black box. I don't know dimensions or much else at this point except the box and sub is going to run me 110 and about 40 for install. I am taking the boat to him tomo and will take pics of this set up and try to get more info. It's marine rated an the box was a black plastic like material

Yes, I have 2 kicker amps now. Factory one runs cabins and had second kicker installed when I did tower speakers. My guy said the amp I had installed with towers will be enough power to run the sub. Hoping he's right, trying to stay below pimp status on this. Wasn't going to do sub at all but well you know how things change and saved money goes into boat

Thanks for the info...I have a total of 6 in boats. The Sub I had in my previous boat was a SVC 2 ohm (Comp VT12).
I'm pretty sure I know what I am going to do. Move the towers to a separate amp and then put the inboats on the 700. I just need to know about the factory sub enclosure to determine how to proceed with the sub options.

What would be the better option for the towers, the 350.2 or the 450.4? Or would a another amp be better.

Yeah, you definitely need to rework the setup. That head-unit will not like running 6 in-boats if 2 of the pairs are wired in parallel on 2 of the head-unit chnls. If they are wired in series, then each is only receiving about 5W each.

Both the zx350.4 wired bridged into 2 chnl mode and the zx450.2 with one pro60 p/chnl will keep you at the same level of performance you are getting now with the Pro60 wired bridged on the zxm700.5.