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I've vacuumed out the Low AC port, then put more refrigerant in, but compressor doesn't seem to turn on anymore. There is a small black dryer/canister with the sight glass on the right side of the car, and a switch with purple wires on top of it. Connectors look good, pulling them off, I measured a short between the two contacts of the switch. There is another switch directly underneath the High AC port with green wires, this measures open, but the brown wires that plug into that connector measures shorted. Is this correct for the Rossion (at rest, not running). I took pictures but don't know how to post on here. Thanks everybody!

What do you mean by turn on; engaging? How do you know your compressor isnt turning on? Is the air just not getting cold, or was there a distinct noise in the past that you no longer hear? More info would be good.

You could have a bad compressor or a leak anywhere in the A/C system. I dont know if its the same in the Rossion, but in the Noble there are a couple of connections that can start to leak. Most are only moderately difficult to get to. If these start leaking, no amount of recharging will make your A/C stay cold. Have you pulled your belly pans and taken a look around up there? An auto shop can pump out your refrigerant and tell you how much was in there. I think the system on the Noble (Again, YMMV in the Rossion) holds something like 15 lbs. If you are below probably half that, its unlikely youll get good cooling...

Thanks. The compressor isn't engaging because I can see the compressor clutch not spinning after I hit the AC button on the control panel. Also, while driving, there usually is an audible "click" and a small reduction in engine power when the compressor engages. This doesn't happen, there is no change. So, I'm thinking some switch is faulty somewhere that disables the AC compressor from running, or a wire came loose somewhere. The fuses are good. I also swapped the AC compressor relay with the High-Beam relay, since they both were the same, and my High-Beams were still working, so it's not the relay. My switch measurements are with the car parked in the garage, not running / no keys in the ignition. The car did run with AC last month after a recharge, but not this time, so I think something else must have happened?

Barring an electrical issue, simplest answer seems to me that maybe your compressor is just faulty. That would suck because its not easy to pull the entire unit...It would have to be pulled from the bottom; with the alternator and all the hoses in the way below it, thats not a fun job.

The compressor holds its own volume of oil, so again, a shop with one of those fancy A/C machines can drain the oil and replace it; that *might* give an indication of something going on. I dont know if that would do anything though, sounds like your compressor might just be fried... =\

Thanks. The compressor isn't engaging because I can see the compressor clutch not spinning after I hit the AC button on the control panel. Also, while driving, there usually is an audible "click" and a small reduction in engine power when the compressor engages. This doesn't happen, there is no change. So, I'm thinking some switch is faulty somewhere that disables the AC compressor from running, or a wire came loose somewhere. The fuses are good. I also swapped the AC compressor relay with the High-Beam relay, since they both were the same, and my High-Beams were still working, so it's not the relay. My switch measurements are with the car parked in the garage, not running / no keys in the ignition. The car did run with AC last month after a recharge, but not this time, so I think something else must have happened?

You could try to jump the AC clutch, forcing it to turn on, to see if it's actually working. If you hear the AC clutch engage when you jump it, least you know the compressor itself is working.
Could even go a step further and see if it's spinning with the engine running -- or see if it's actually spitting out cold air.

HOWEVER, if there's another issue within the system that is preventing the clutch from engaging (ie. overcharge), you could do more damage by forcing the clutch on with the engine running. So, do it at your own risk.

OK, I will try jumping the AC compressor, but I am not sure which wire/connector it is. There is a square-ish plug above the AC compressor that has white, orange, red, and (I think) yellow wires on it, are one of these the wire to jump? And, what voltage to use? Is it safe to tap off any of the + positive wires around the engine bay, or clip on a small guage wire from the positive jumper terminal to the AC compressor wire? Thanks much.

The compressor didn't engage when I attempted to charge it with refrigerant through a set of manifold gauges, so I jumped the AC Compressor relay (in the fuse box between the seats), forcing the compressor to engage. The system was vacuumed out beforehand, so no refrigerant. After adding nearly one can (24oz refrigerant), the pressure on low side was +70 but the high side pressure didn't climb higher, I don't know why. The AC was blowing cold inside the car. I looked through the sight glass on the black dryer next to the high port, and saw moving refrigerant in there. I had planned to add another half can, but it seems the car wasn't accepting more, so I disconnected the gauges from the car, removed the jumper, and pushed the relay back in. The AC button, now pushed, engaged the compressor. But after driving for about 15 mins, the compressor failed to engage again. Is there something wrong with the pressure sensor? Or might the cause be something else, like not enough refrigerant? Not sure I should jumper the relay again and try to feed another 1/2 can of refrigerant to the system, since the high pressure didn't go high. Thanks in advance.