#21:

Wintering in the Middle East

A nice little tour to regain confidence in cycle-touring. Also a nice way to
start a year - 1000 km bagged by middle of January.

General information

ROUTE: I started from Amman airport going south on Desert Highway to Karak,
then procedded on King's Highway to Petra and Aqaba, with a side trip to Wadi
Rum. From Aqaba I cycled north to the Dead Sea, with a side climb to
Karak and back. From The Dead Sea I climbed to Mt Nebo and Madaba and then the
same way back, then into Israel and to Jerusalem. The same way back to Jordan
with a final climb to Amman and the Airport.

ROADS: Roads are paved and very good, I think the best of all my tours. There
is a lot of glass and other debris (like pieces of steel wires) on the
emergency lane of bigger Highways.

MAPS: I planned the trip by the Freitag & Berndt map
of Jordan, (1:700,000) but I don't reccommend it. Instead, better download
the road maps provided by pathebikeguy - another cyclist:
here.
They are much better.
My digital map approach didn't work well this time.

TRAFFIC: The traffic is dense in Amman and Jerusalem. Drivers are behaving
very well, giving you lot of respect and space, and a honk as a warning or
support.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT: It seems to be quite easy to
pick up a ride in a van. I did that on the climb from Dana village.
I had a flight with Turkish and they didn't charge me anything, despite their
policy is to collect 60 EUR for a bike one-way. On the way back I didn't need
the bike box, I just wrapped the bike with a roll of food-wrapping plastic.

ACCOMMODATION: I stayed in hotels most of the time. I slept outside in a bivy
bag twice and wasn't very satisfied. It was too cold (from 5 to 8 deg C). The
bivy bags should be good above 15 degrees C, or above 10 C with ground sheet.

FOOD AND WATER: No problems with it in winter. Even on Dead Sea HWY there are
places to buy food at 50 km intervals, on other roads much more frequently.
Water might be a slightly bigger problem in summer.

COSTS: I paid from 12 to 30 JD (Jordanian dinar) for a room in a hotel.
Jordanian dinar was about the same as Euro.
A meal was 2 to 5 JD, a can of coke 0.25 to 0.5 JD.
I spend a bit more then 30 EUR/day.

VISAS: I got Jordanian visa at the Airport (costs 10 JD) and I entered Israel
without one - but there is 35 EUR exit tax from Israel. I used the border at
King Hussain bridge - you can re-enter Jordan there on your old visa. The
Jordanians don't make a question about the Israeli stamp in your passport.

WEATHER: It was cold. Tempertures were from 0 C in the morning to 13 C at
midday, but the wind made it feel much colder. Around Dead Sea it is warm
enough for T-shirt and to have a bath.
I had great weater - clear skies, just a few hours of rain on one day.
Daylight from 6:30 to 17:00.

SITES: Petra is wort a visit. As well as few day's trek around Wadi Rum. Nice
desert landscape, wich becomes more dramatic around Wadi's, great views along
the Dead Sea and on the climbs up from it.

ANNOYANCES: The kids (and teenagers) could be annoying - teasing, throwing
stones under your wheels etc. Beduin dogs will go mad when they see you, but
they are benign - just stop and reach for the stone and they'll run away.

Stuff

Aluminium road bike with carbon fork, triple chainring
(52/42/30), 8 speed cassette (12-26) and 700x25c tyres.
I experimented a little bit further into the realm of ultralight cycling.
Instead of tent and sleeping bag I had only a bivy bag this time. This reduced
the volume so much that I didn't need the rear rack.
It ment 4 kg less than my usual touring weight. I could pack everything -
including the bike and 1 liter of water in 15 kg.
See further details.
It seems I optimized thing totaly this time - I used everything I had.