Read the subjects that interest you, but don't stop there: Come on out and
shoot! Words and pictures can't convey the fun of the real experience!

Introduction

A silhouette is a steel profile of an animal (chicken, pig, turkey,
or ram) standing on a pedestal. The object of the game is to knock as many silhouettes
as possible off their pedestals, shooting one round at each silhouette. It is
a very simple competition, with very simple scoring: You get a 1 for knocking
an animal off its stand, a 0 for anything else. Although silhouette is an easy
game to learn, it is not an easy game to master. The animals are rather small
and the distances are rather large; you must shoot offhand (standing); a moderate
breeze can move a bullet or a pellet the width of an animal; your concentration
becomes more difficult to hold as you knock down five in a row, six, .... These
factors make silhouette an endless challenge.

This photograph shows smallbore animals (top two rungs) and air rifle animals below.

Silhouette shooting originated in Mexico in the late 1940s. It is now shot all
over the world with everything from air pistols to black powder rifles. Silhouette
sizes and distances vary according to the kind of rifle or pistol, but everything
else is the same. For example, high-power rifle silhouettes are life-size, but
they are shot at much longer distances than the scaled-down smallbore or air
rifle silhouettes. Commands to load, fire, and cease fire are often given in
Spanish, in part to honor the sport's heritage, and in part to distinguish the
silhouette shooters' commands from those directed at other shooters sharing
the range. (Non-Spanish speakers, don't worry; there are only three commands!)

A match consists of 40, 60, or 80 shots at the same number of animals. In a
60-shot match, you shoot 15 rounds at 15 chickens, 15 rounds at 15 pigs, and
the same for turkeys and rams. For smallbore at SRGC, the animals are 40, 60,
77, and 100 meters distant; for air rifle, they are 20, 30, 36, and 45 yards
away. (At some clubs, yards may be meters and vice versa.) You shoot at the
silhouettes in sets (banks) of five; you get 2-1/2 minutes per bank,
which is usually plenty of time even for single-shot rifles. In a 60-shot match,
there are three banks per animal (3x5=15, 15x4=60); 40- and 80-shot matches
have two and four banks per animal, respectively. In a 60-shot match, a few
shooters will score in the 20s, most will shoot in the 30s and 40s, and a few
will break 50. Perfect scores are very rare. Shooters are classified into handicap
groups based on past performance so they can compete with others of similar
ability. But it's not just the score that counts. Shooters who never break 40
come to match after match because toppling a silhouette is a satisfying experience
that you want to do again, and because silhouette shooters are a great bunch
of people to shoot and talk and laugh with.

Equipment

One of the appeals of silhouette shooting is the gear: There isn't much of
it, and you can choose how much money to spend on it. A good-quality off-the-shelf
hunting rifle will get you into the game, enabling you to acquire the fundamental
skills of offhand shooting; it will shoot good scores if you do your part. If,
later, you want to compete at the top level of the game, you can buy a fine-quality
rifle.

Rifles

For smallbore silhouette, you can use most any .22 rifle and
standard velocity ammunition. (High velocity ammunition is prohibited because
it can damage the targets.) In practice, most people shoot bolt-action rifles
with scopes of 16-24 power. However, there is no reason you should not come
out with your semi-automatic and 8-power scope, or even iron sights if you can
holdover at four different ranges. You'll see how much fun the game is, what
the people are like, and what rifles and scopes the veteran shooters are using.
If you ask politely, you'll probably be able to shoot any rifle that's there.

To get a little more technical, there are two smallbore rifle classes (for
details, buy a copy of the NRA Rifle Silhouette Rules from the NRA):

Smallbore rifles: three Silhouette-class rifles on the left; three Hunter-class rifles on the right.

For air rifle, you can shoot anything up through .22 caliber, though most people
shoot .177 because a wider variety of accurate rifles and pellets are available
for this caliber than for .20 or .22. But feel free to shoot what you've got.
There are three air rifle classes:

Target class: 10-meter competition rifle, such as FWB P70, 300s, or Anschutz
2002; virtually all shooters use scopes rather than match sights

Sporter class: Any factory unmodified sporter rifle, 11 lbs. maximum including
scope. Among spring guns, the Air Arms TX200 and Weirauch/Beeman HW 97 are
popular. Precharged rifles, such as the FX Tarantula and Air Arms S410, are
allowed starting in 2005.

Open class: Any air rifle up to 16 lbs. including scope; generally these
are powerful precharged pneumatics such as the Anschutz 2025 or Walther Dominator
or 10-meter rifles modified to shoot a heavy pellet at 800-900 feet per second.

Note: From time to time you will be asked to make your rifle safe. This means
laying it down on the bench with the muzzle pointing downrange, the breech open,
the chamber empty, and the magazine removed or empty. If your air rifle has
a magazine, think about how you will demonstrate to the range officer that it
is empty or removed.

Scopes

Most people need a scope to shoot silhouette well because the
animals are small and there are four distances to shoot at. 16 to 24 power is
adequate. Beginners will want to start with a lower power because it makes your
wobble (motion of the cross hairs across the target) less apparent and therefore
less unnerving. Look for these features in a scope:

Adjustable objective: You are shooting at four distances, so you want to
be able to focus the scope at each distance. For air rifle, the scope must
focus down to 20 yards.

Repeatability: When you change the scope elevation from rams to chickens,
you want to be confident that when you do your job right, the bullet or pellet
hits the center of a chicken, rather than flying over or under it. You can
check repeatability by shooting a "box" on a calm day (or indoors
if you an air rifle and space--you need at least 20 yards).

Resting the rifle for maximum accuracy, shoot five shots at a bull.

Raise the elevation one revolution; shoot five more rounds at the same
bull.

Move the windage one revolution right; shoot five more rounds at the
same bull.

Lower the elevation one revolution (to your original elevation); shoot
five rounds at the same bull.

Finally, move the windage one revolution left, and shoot a final five
rounds at the same bull.

If the last five rounds hit the same spot as the first five, your scope's
repeatability is good.

Target turrets: You need turrets that are easy to turn with your fingers
and are clearly marked. Scopes that have micrometer-style rotation marks (1st
revolution, 2nd revolution, etc.) help you see at a glance where the scope
is set. 1/4 minute of windage or elevation change per click is good; 1/8 minute
clicks will have you turning the turrets more between animals but still works
OK.

Dot or fine duplex or reticle: Light conditions are almost always good,
so you won't have trouble seeing the reticle. In fact, a bold reticle can
be distracting. More good shooters probably use the target dot (or the Leupold
dot, which has tapered crosshairs) than the duplex; but they could all shoot
good scores with a duplex. If you start with a duplex, you can sometimes have
the reticle changed to a target dot for $50-$100.

Air rifle rated: If you are shooting a piston (spring or gas strut) rifle,
be sure to get a scope that is rated for air rifle shooting; the two-way recoil
can break scopes not built for it. Pneumatic and CO2 air rifles can use any
scope.

Variable power (zoom): With a variable power scope, you can increase the
magnification as your hold improves -- and decrease it when it's windy or you
are having a bad day.

Reasonable weight: In some classes, especially smallbore Hunter, the weight
limit may force you to use a light weight scope if your rifle is on the heavy
side.

Ammunition

Both .22s and air rifles are highly individualistic about ammunition. Even
two rifles with consecutive serial numbers may not shoot the same ammo well.
However, some .22 brands seem to work well in many rifles:

Note: If you are shooting a .22 semi-automatic, you may need to install a weaker
recoil spring to get the action to cycle reliably with standard-velocity rounds.
Many stock semi-automatics have recoil springs that need the extra power of
high-velocity ammo (illegal for silhouette) to operate without jamming.

Testing Ammunition

To test ammo and determine your scope settings,
you need the calmest possible weather. Even slight breezes will
displace a bullet, and especially a pellet, an inch at 50 yards, making it impossible
to know whether your rifle doesn't like the ammo or the wind is pushing it around.
Early morning and evening are the best times to test, at least in summer. 8PM
on Tuesday (SRGC is open until 9 on Tuesday) is often dead calm. (Alternatively,
you can do as one air rifle shooter in Southern California has done, and build
your own wind-proof 50-yard range from 2' steel pipe!)

At SRGC, the .22 and air rifle positions are on the right side of the range
office (positions 21 and higher). To test ammo, set up a multiple-bull target
at 50 yards. Choose bulls that are easy to center in your scope; most people
can see white rings easier than black ones; some people prefer to align the
crosshairs on grid intersections. (If you have Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can
download this sample target.)
Rest your rifle on blocks and sandbags (or on a rifle rest if you have one)
to maximize your steadiness. Shoot one five-shot group per bull, holding the
rifle as consistently as possible across the shots. Five groups should give
you a good idea of an ammunition's performance in your rifle. After changing
to a different brand, the first group you shoot with the new ammo may be comparatively
poor; if it is, ignore it. If your rifle will consistently shoot 1/2" groups
(measured center-to-center, or edge-to-edge and subtracting one caliber diameter)
you've found an ammo your rifle likes. But 1" groups are OK if they are
consistent. When you've got the right ammo, you can be confident that the animals
you miss are your fault, not your equipment's. That's important for observing
and correcting your mistakes and also for concentrating on the fundamentals
when you shoot. If you want to test .22 ammo more meticulously, test the ammo
that groups best at 50 at 100 yards to find out which is really best. Note that
100 yard testing requires dead calm conditions and good benchrest shooting skills.

Getting Scope Settings

Once you've selected an ammunition, you need
to get your scope settings for that ammo. With known settings, you'll be able
to quickly adjust the scope as you change from chickens to pigs, pigs to turkeys,
and so on. To determine scope settings at Sunnyvale Rod and Gun Club, staple
a multi-bull target to a cardboard box, and position the box on the range at
the distance of one animal. You will probably need to put the cardboard box
on a plastic ammo-recycling bucket for the .22 pigs, which are located in dips
that can hide a small box. Do not shoot the bucket. Ballast the box with rocks
or gravel so the wind doesn't blow it away (though for best results there shouldn't be any wind).

Smallbore ranges: Look for 2" square caps set into the ground.The chickens
are just in front of the wood beam at the 50 yard line. The ram line (which
has permanently installed pedestals) is low on the bank behind the 100-yard
target line.

Air rifle ranges: Each animal line is marked with a 2" white disk set
flush in the ground about two-thirds of the way between the rangemaster's
office and the highest-numbered shooting position. The chicken line is just
behind the first strip of gravel; the ram line is just in front of the wood
beam at 50 yards.

Apply a piece of tape to your stock or scope tube and mark your four elevation
and windage settings on it. Use tape or adhesive dots to mark the four focus
points on the scope bell so you can easily change distances. NOTE: Don't assume
your scope settings are exactly right. Every time you shoot, you hold
the rifle a little differently and therefore change the point of impact. Some
scopes are affected by temperature variations. Always arrive early at a match
so you can check your settings and adjust them to the current conditions.

Shooting Offhand

You shoot silhouette from the offhand position.This means that you shoot standing
and you support the rifle entirely with your body. No part of your body except
your feet can touch anything. You cannot wear stiffening shoes or clothing.
Silhouette's roots are in hunting, and becoming a better silhouette shooter
can make you shoot better in the field as well.

Note: at the SRGC smallbore matches, there's a special "varmint"
class that shoots sitting, with the rifle rested on sandbags. This is a great
way for beginners to get acquainted with the game; if your rifle is set up properly,
you will definitely knock over a bunch of animals from this position.

You can shoot offhand hunter-style, with your support hand forward and cupping
the forend However, you will notice that most good shooters use a target shooting
position:

The support elbow is held against the side of the chest, ideally resting
on the top of the pelvis (even with the navel).

The forearm is nearly vertical.

The forend is supported only from the bottom, with knuckles or splayed fingers
(depending on how high you need to raise the rifle to see through the scope
with your head erect).

Offhand position: rear view

Offhand position: side view

The above photos show Tim Kurreck, an SRGC member and national champion. The
idea of this stance, which will probably seem very odd and uncomfortable at
first, is to make the support side of your body like a post on which the rifle
rests. The post is composed of bones, not muscle, because bones are much steadier.
To make the support side of your body like a post, thrust your hip toward the
target and try to plant your support elbow on the pelvis (above your hip joint
and even with your navel). If you're doing it right, the support side of your
body will be relaxed and you will feel the weight of the rifle on your pelvis.
To aim, use the large muscles of your midsection, not the small muscles of your
arm or shoulder. Note: not everyone's body proportions permit resting the elbow
on the pelvis; if your elbow doesn't reach that low, hold it and your upper
arm firmly against the side of your chest.

The Match

Here's what to expect in your first silhouette match at SRGC. When you arrive
between 8 and 8:30AM, you'll help set up the targets, sign in for the match
and at the range office, choose the animal you want to start with (pigs are
easiest, turkeys are hardest), pay an entry fee, and then practice for half
an hour or so. Cost is $5 per rifle plus a yearly fee of $12 for your NRA score
book. If you are not an SRGC member, you must also pay the standard range fee
of $12, which entitles you to shoot all day. Use the practice time to verify
or adjust your sight settings, then shoot some animals to warm up and get accustomed
to the conditions. If you have a count-down timer, set it to 2 minutes and 45
seconds. The small bore match usually starts around 9 and ends between 12-1.
The air rifle match starts around 6:30PM and ends before 9. Both proceed as
follows.

Shooters divide themselves into relays that shoot together. At SRGC,
a relay is up to eight shooters; two for chickens, two for pigs, and so on.
Depending on the number of shooters, there may be one, two, or three relays,
and they are called relay 1, relay 2, and relay 3. At some point, the match
director (technically the Chief Range Officer) will call your relay to the
line. Carry your rifle (unloaded, breech open, muzzle up) to the shooting
station for your animal; signs above the stations denote "pig 1",
"pig 2", and so on. Lay your empty rifle on the bench with the open
breech visible and the muzzle pointing down range. If you have magazines,
load two with five rounds each. Arrange your magazines, ammo, scoresheet,
pen, and timer on the bench so they are easy to see and reach. Then stand
a few inches from the shooting bench.

The match director will soon announce "Listo", which is Spanish
for "Ready". Start your timer. Load a magazine or a round. Check
that your scope focus and elevation are correct for the animal you are shooting.
Begin aiming at the leftmost animal in your first bank of targets.The first
bank is is always the lower-left one. (In a 60-shot match you will have three
banks of five animals; shoot them in this order: lower left, upper left, lower
right.) Be sure you are aiming at your chickens, not at those of the
shooter next to you--hitting the wrong animal is a miss! Each set of banks
is marked with a number, "1" or "2", that corresponds
to your shooting station.

Four banks of chickens for shooter 1 (left) and shooter 2 (right) in an 80-shot match. Shoot banks in this order: bottom left, top left, bottom right, top right. Pigs, turkeys and rams are in the distance.

After 15 seconds, the match director will announce "Fuego", which
is Spanish for "Fire". Shoot the leftmost animal in your bank. Whether
you hit or miss, the next round goes to the next animal to the right--you
get five rounds for five animals, period. When you finish, lay your rifle
on the bench, unloaded, breech open, and muzzle pointing downrange.

After two minutes and 45 seconds, the match director will announce "Alto
Fuego", which is Spanish for "Cease Fire". Do not fire again.
Even if you have not taken five shots, make your rifle safe and lay it on
the table. Record your score, marking an X for a hit, a 0 for a miss.

After a short break, the match director will repeat the Listo-Fuego-Alto
Fuego sequence for the next bank. When your relay has completed its banks,
the match director will arrange for the entire range to cease fire, and you
will go downrange to reset the animals you have shot in preparation for the
next relay. Take a can of white paint with you and spray over your hits so
the next shooter has clean targets.

When all relays have shot, you will be called to your next animal. Although
you may start with any animal, the progression is always chickens->pigs->turkeys->rams->chickens. Before
leaving one animal, set your scope up for the next one, so you don't forget.

Occasionally, for various reasons, you may not have five animals to shoot at.
In such a case, you make your final shot at an animal left standing in a prior
bank. It should be one of your animals unless there are none, in which case
it can be one of your relay partner's animals. Before shooting an animal in
another bank, let your partner know which you intend to hit, and ask for permission
if you must shoot at one of your partner's animals.

When the match is over, total your score and transfer it to the sheet maintained
by the match director. After scores are announced, the range may remain open
for practice or a shootoff if there's a tie. When the match is finished, help
gather the targets, put away the target stands, and begin thinking about how
you're going to shoot better next time.

Downloadable Targets

Click the links below to download PDF outlines of the smallbore silhouette
targets. These targets include a one-inch ruler. Measure it after printing to
verify that your printer is set up right.