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Space Hopper?

The orange one. OK I had to look that one up. No, not a space hopper. I will give you this, it stays outside all the time. Keep trying.

On the pattern one, screen covered in ice is correct, as for the pattern behind the pattern, I call close enough. It is not pine trees but regular trees covered with ice also. Very perceptive! 100 extra bonus points, but you have to split them!

Interesting John F

Why have the center pull left to block the end and leave the halfback on the middle linebacker. Are you setting something else up, or is that a standard play you use to run the ball a lot and you are trying to "influence block" the middle linbacker?

The orange one. OK I had to look that one up. No, not a space hopper. I will give you this, it stays outside all the time. Keep trying.

On the pattern one, screen covered in ice is correct, as for the pattern behind the pattern, I call close enough. It is not pine trees but regular trees covered with ice also. Very perceptive! 100 extra bonus points, but you have to split them!

thanks for the response.

Thank God for that, my second guess was going to be a kangaroo with a vacuum cleaner, leading a jazzband in a hoola contest and juggling silver foil wrapped cheese, but then I wiped my computer screen...and they all went away.

I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

Why have the center pull left to block the end and leave the halfback on the middle linebacker. Are you setting something else up, or is that a standard play you use to run the ball a lot and you are trying to "influence block" the middle linbacker?

I think you are leaving yourself susceptible to a strong safety blitz, but I'm British and have no idea what I'm talking about. Which one is the wicket keeper?

I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

I think John's comments here are right on. It's definitely your white balance. Color is rated in temperature. . . . Daylight is 5000 degrees, tungsten lamps are 3200 degrees, etc. In the old days, if you shot indoors without a flash (daylight film) your pics were yellow, much like your first one is. In the old days we attached a blue filter. Today, you either set your white balance to "tungsten" or take a white balance with a white card. Frankly, I rarely if ever mess with my white balance.

Insofar as the depth of field is concerned, two things:

To have a greater depth of focus, you need to have a greater depth of field. If adjustable on your camera, you need to stop down. That is, from f/8 to f/16 for example. If you don't understand these numbers, I'll give it a try. They are fractions. It's actually 1:8.0 or 1/8. Here 1 is the length of your lens and 8 (1/8) is the diameter of your aperture. It would take 8 aperture diameters to equal the length of your lens. Therefore, the larger the number (8, 11, 16, 22) the smaller the aperture and the greater the depth of field. 1/8, 1/11, 1/16, 1/22, etc.

Anytime you start messing with shutter speeds and apertures, especially indoors, you almost necessarily have to be on a tripod. Because stopping the aperture down decreases the light entering the lens, the corresponding shutter speed must be slower.

So one thing to fix the depth of field is to stop down the lens. The other is to focus on whatever is in the foreground. You would want to focus on the yellow paint receptacle. You can lock the focus on your camera by pointing the focus indicator at the intended subject, depress the shutter release part way, then recompose and shoot. In other words, the intended point of focus (the subject) does not have to be in the center of the finished picture, but it needs to be in the center when you focus. Your camera has a small oval, circle, or set of brackets to indicate where focus is determined.

Clear as mud? When school's out I'll actually have time to take some pictures to make all of this less abstract. If you have any questions, don't hesitate. This all seems complicated at first, but is actually easy to master and it fits together like a simple puzzle.

Okay, so hold down the shutter release part way, press the AWB button, adjust the focus and depth of field, hold the magi lite in my teeth, adjust the tripod, set the 123 thingy, jiggle the MSAP, switch the AF/MF, re-configure the ISO and MSET while holding the shakey hand thing in the on position...I'm guessing I should put my cup of tea down first.

I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

CRAP!!!

I was just working on this one:

Last edited by grossjohann; 01-20-2008 at 02:37 AM.
Reason: Image lost when thread moved to Photography Forum