The black fishnet tights attached to the invitation said it all: Jean Paul Gaultier was in raunchy mode.

And, so it ensued, as his autumn/winter collection, shown at Paris Fashion Week, last night, opened on a stage set resembling a Parisian bordello.

The theme of the collection was all about exposure: Glimpses of flesh seen through fishnet-filled apertures in trench-coats and dresses; disclosed in hosiery with "windows" of transparency running up the legs; or represented in helmets with criss-cross visors shielding the models' eyes. Even the black, patent boots had the fishnet pattern cut-out down the calves, while fox and mink jackets were worn with black netting vests.

Brown leather and metallic gold poncho-capes, tightly-belted, featured fishnet backs, through which the matching brief leotards could be seen, and were worn with matching fishnet, leather leggings.

One model, in a sheer, chiffon dress printed with "sex" banknotes, her modesty protected by swags of black fringing, tossed similar notes at the audience's feet as a cover version of The Beatles' "Money" pumped through the sound system.

Two others engaged in a catfight, which ended up in a mudbath wrestle, with the girls' wigs askew and mascara streaming down their faces.

The cheers from the audience drowned out the chanting of the anti-fur protesters outside.