Design & Mystique of the Japanese School Uniform

The U.K., Malaysia and Ireland have nice school uniforms, but how come Japanese school attire seemingly takes it to another level, leaving the students looking like little sailors and marching band leaders? Having worked as a public school English teacher in rural Fukushima and downtown Tokyo, I’ve been amazed by the variety of uniforms as well as the ways students customise them as far as they are C2090-610 allowed. PingMag shows you interesting details in fashion and the social performance that accompany this apparel to a point where the traditional Japanese school uniform has developed beyond the schoolyard and into pop culture.

Written by Michael Mahoney

Schools use different bows and ties, giving
each school a different look, here designs by Kuri-ori. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

C2090-611
**History**
The school uniform, *seifuku*, in Japan started over a hundred years ago, in the [Meiji period](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meiji_period). According to the [Tombow Uniform Museum](http://www.tombow.gr.jp/uniform_museum/index.html), first a more formal kimono, shirt and [hakama](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakama) combination was selected by the Ministry of Education, to “escalate” the profile of students. Later in this era, however, as Japan began to embrace things Western, the *hakama* set was replaced with a black or navy *gakuran* jacket and slacks.

Totally old school! A hakama, shirt and kimono set, which the Ministry of Education recommended as the student school uniform in 1872. Courtesy of the Tombow Corporation Uniform Museum.

The gakuran, school uniform jacket, was modeled specifically after state military uniforms, which themselves emulated the uniforms of Prussian military cadets, because the Prussian Army was so strong at the time. The uniforms had a high, stiff collar and brass buttons up to the neck, kind of like “marching band leader” meets “Men in Black”… Dark slacks, belt, dark shoes and sometimes a flat, round black cap with a flat top completed the ensemble.

Sailors and Cadets

The all so familiar sailor uniform… Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

In 1920, a women’s school in Fukuoka began to use a sailor suit uniform. It had a triangular scarf and low-cut skirt, and was modeled after the British navy uniform used at the time since the headmistress, Elizabeth Lee, apparently had lived in Britain. This also became popular because of Britain’s strength as a naval power at the time.

Despite some modifications to the seifuku over the years (as well as a move towards blazers at some schools), the basic design remains the same at many middle schools and high schools throughout Japan. However, after World War II many elementary schools stopped using uniforms altogether.

… emulated after British naval uniforms. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

Roles of the Uniform

For students, of course, the uniform serves to link them to their schools, and reasserts their collective identity in Japanese society as students.

Accessorise! For the personal note, a shiny pin is brushing up the standard outfit. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

As Pierre Bourdieu has mentioned, fashion is important in giving everyone a ‘sense of one’s place. As well, since school uniforms differ between schools – in the use of scarves or black slacks, for example – the students can instantly recognise students from other schools.

Yet within the school itself, uniforms remove the messages of social and economic status carried in apparel according to a study at Southeastern Louisiana University.

One could argue that uniforms prevent students from expressing themselves through clothes. Interestingly enough, they have found ways to make their attitude or habits known through their uniforms: For example, in my schools, rebellious ‘cool’ boys often left the top buttons of their high-neck collar unbuttoned, or wore colourful belts with their otherwise all-black uniforms. Some also grow out their hair to match the latest J-Pop star (although many were forced to chop their hair short again before taking the brutal high school and university entrance examinations.)

A recent PBS report similarly explained that girls often use colourful shoelaces, bright hair accessories or attach character keychains or sutorappu, charms, to their zippers. Others wear rebelliously-puffy knee-high socks, or hike their skirts up (to shocking heights) in order to identify with a particular group of people.

On a different note, the uniforms play a symbolic role for students in professing first love. Upon graduating high- or middle-school, girls will go up to their crush and ask for his dai-ni button – the second-button down on his uniform jacket. If the boy has similar romantic feelings for the girl, he will remove this button – the button closest to his heart – and give it to her…

A tie selection by the Beverly Hills Polo Club brand. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

Uniform Fashionistas

Golden embroidery – chic elegance by the Japanese Kuri-ori brand. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

Furthermore, as one Japanese student told me, for fashion-conscious parents and children, the school uniform can often be used as a fashion statement, if not a symbol of a family’s wealth or good taste. Local fashion designers such as Hanae Mori have launched their own versions of the school uniform in the past, while international labels such as Benetton have announced plans to create uniforms especially for the Japanese market.

Takeshi Tsukada of Hanae Mori Associates told me that their uniforms have been popular with parents and schools due to their traditional, classic design. “They trust her designs to be noble, not too trendy. This is a relief to the parents,” he said. He also noted that, for the school, using high-quality school uniforms were one to attract new students.

Beyond the Schoolyard

Yet, when you visit Japan, you notice the uniform – notably the girls’ sailor-suit uniform – everywhere: in comics, on billboards, on TV shows… There are even shops selling cheap knock-offs of the school uniform! Why are they so popular?

One possible reason is that, over time, these uniforms have become a nostalgic symbol of a more carefree youth. A sleepy salaryman can see a student wearing the exact same uniform he once wore, and is reminded of a happier, simpler time, when days were spent on homework and sports practice rather than at the office…

Since the uniform is THE symbol of school, comics such as the prominent Sailor Moon, games such as PaperMan or TV series such as WaterBoys or the school girl drama Life use it as a prominent theme.

As a result of comic book characters being dressed in uniforms, we showed you before how many teenage cosplayers use imitation uniforms to remake themselves into their favourite manga characters. Catering to this market, there are the shops offering anime-style uniform costumes and chat rooms, for example one discussing how to make your own uniform.

Symbol of Beauty

As a teacher, a thing that you notice is that students – especially high school girls – wear their uniforms all the time, even on weekends, when school is out and wearing uniforms isn’t necessary. Why?

Youth as ‘brand’ in a brand-conscious society – advertisement at Yokohama station.

A New York Times article claimed that Japanese teenagers are acutely aware that, because of their youth, they are a sought-after ‘brand’ in a brand-conscious society – implying that students wear their uniforms often in order to flaunt their youth.

To test this theory, I asked around a bit. Molly Elgin, an English teacher in Fukushima, noticed high school girls in Fuku city wearing uniforms, even though their local high school did not require students to wear uniforms.

When asked why they wore them anyway, the students explained that it was considered “cute” to wear them. “The analysis on our part was that the images of school girls in uniform are so prevalent, [it] is emphasised as… the pinnacle of beauty, so the girls want to wear their uniform to fit that idealised beauty standard,” Elgin assumed.

On the other hand, Elgin also noticed that her junior high school students often wore their uniforms outside of school as well. “But for them, it was a laziness factor – it was easier” to wear a uniform, than to pick out an outfit of their own to wear, she stated.

I went around the corner of PingMag headquarters in Harajuku to a nice uniform shop. There, Shihori Hata, a clerk at Conomi School Goods Shop, said that students wear their uniforms on the weekends because they often have to go to extracurricular activities where they have to be in proper attire.

The Future…

As schools merge and student population numbers drop, the market for uniform sales companies does not look so great. Back to Takeshi Tsukada of Hanae Mori Associates. He stated that since parents are having fewer children, they are willing to spend more money on their kids’ uniforms than before – making some interesting sales opportunities for uniform manufacturers.

Student numbers drop. But since parents are having fewer children, these are willing to spend more money on their kids’ uniforms than before. Pupils at Nagatcho station.

To attract parents, companies have been adding some interesting new gimmicks to their uniforms. Tsukada recalls going to a uniform trade exhibition and seeing many new devices: a uniform skirt with an elastic snap device, which would automatically snap a heightened skirt back to a lower, more modest length; uniform slacks with a metal clip that would prevent boys from wearing their pants too low; shirttails and button openings embroidered with the school’s name so that, if untucked or unbuttoned, the uniform would reveal the school’s name – and thus embarrass the student.

Another selection of bows for each school to choose, by Beverly Hills Polo Club brand. Courtesy of Conomi School Goods Shop.

As symbols of youth and tokens of school-age identity, uniforms will undoubtedly remain an evergreen of the academic and pop culture of Japan and surely outlive society’s changes.Special thanks to Conomi School Goods Shop!

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I really like this website!! things that for japanese people could be normal, for me are so interesting! culturally, artistic, and so fresh make this website so cool!!!

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Interesting article! At the school where I taught, students had to wear their uniforms on weekends if they were doing any school activities (and because they were all required to be in a club, they often were). They actually loved being able to wear their own clothes on days when they could.

And I think you are neglecting (perhaps intentionally?) the fetish aspect of the Japanese girls’ school uniform. The business man staring at the girl in uniform on the train isn’t reminiscing about HIS bygone youthful purity….

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I love how Japanese put details in everything. It makes it so culturally unique and artistic. It’s no wonder everyone fantasizes about Japanese school girls.

Badger

As a student in the UK I have to disagree with Pingmag thinking that our uniforms are interesting. we have a simple blazer usually in one colour, a jumper with the schools logo embroidered on and normal black trousers.
I suppose if you look at private schools its a different matter but other than that it is boring!

Sally

This article is so interesting! When I was in Japan last year I did notice that many students were able to individualize their uniforms with trinkets, bows,etc.Also, the uniforms are probably quite economical when compared to the name-brand jeans, sneakers, etc. that students wear in the U.S. Excellent article!

Anonymous

Wow this is really interesting! I’ve read books about the dai-ni button but didn’t understand what was happening.. it all makes sense now!

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Like Badger, I too don’t think that the Malaysian school uniform is exciting at all. They are drab, duotone things and the only thing that differs from school to school is the iron-on school badge.

Lunedi

Uniforms are also required in many public and private schools here in the Philippines, but rarely do the designs become as interesting, diverse and detailed like those in Japan. My old high school has several uniforms but they’re not as great as these.

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I think uniforms don’t belong into schools. The only thing I can associate with uniforms is military, and why would we want to associate schools with that? Also I think a school is the wrong place to promote uniformism, especially with teenagers at a time during their life when they want to be looked at as individuals not as one little cogwheel in the big machine…

As a German it disturbs me seeing children wearing uniforms – the last time that happened in Germany those children belonged to the Hitler-youth.

Oh wow, this now throws me back to my days at saiki (Oita ken) and a certain kokose called chihiro…

Japan Japan.. how much I miss you.

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Nice! I wish I could watch Life.

jju

So, could the whole uniform fetish thing in Japan vanish if the adults dont get stuck in their offices 24/7? Since they won’t be reminescing their long gone days but instead enjoy their current state.

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Great article, again. It seems in Japan, you only think you know what you see. “Youth as a brand”, thats very sophisticated stuff to chew on. Thanks!

Omphaloskeptic

Uniforms did not originate from fascism, surely. Everyone wears some sort of uniform but there are degrees of formalisation.

Teens don’t want to be different, they want to fit in with a particular clique. They may do things to set them apart from other cliques, but nevertheless…

Yes that is a huge generalisation, but so were Bunglemeister’s comments

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Wearing the seifuku these days is a walking fashion statement.

On a sidenote, Japanese high school girls wear the shortest skirts in the world, period.

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ouija

I went to a British public school with a fairly complicated uniform, and I liked it too. Especially the hat. So I can understand some girls wanting to wear them out of school, especially when they are so very much cuter than ours were. We used to customise ours too, within the strict limits set by the school; in a weird way it was somehow more fun than putting together your own outfit from scratch. Design constraints can be good things!

Anonymous

One thing you left out is that most students can only afford one of the expensive blazer, skirt, pants, etc. Put that together with the fact that they wear them every day including weekends… Yeah, they often have a very non-cute smell. Wondering how I know? I smell 900 of them every day at work.

Anonymous

Lovely way of getting kids to learn to conform to the “authoritative” standard from an early age, as well as embedding them with the need to fit in the group and seek validation from it.

Danny K

Brilliant article, Time Magazine quality, top notch ^_^ The author should consider branching out into international print magazines like Time or NG.

lol. All you hippies moaning about suppressing kids’ free will with uniforms need to visit the real world now and again.

I work in a school. When we have non-uniform days, the kids all spend the week beforehand asking each other “what are you wearing…?” and they all go and buy identical outfits. Believe me, they don’t want to express individuality: they are terrified that they will look different from everyone else. The clothes that they wear on non-uniform days are ridiculously expensive, and, with kids being what they are, they bully each other mercilessly if someone is wearing a cheap brand or last week’s expensive fashion – and the kids from low-income backgrounds are often the most likely to act like this. Many of the kids won’t come into school on a non-uniform day. The same kids have a sudden illness EVERY time there is an opportunity to wear their own clothes to school.

What with the time wasted planning wardrobes, expense for parents, and lessons missed by kids that don’t feel able to attend school in normal clothes, non-uniform has a negative effect on education and bullying.

Is that less important than your right-on hippy ideals?

woody

ps I forgot to say – very interesting article.

pps to the idiotic viewpoint that “the last time people wore uniforms was under the nazis” just remember that the people that made the huge sacrifices necessary to liberate Europe also wore uniforms. Uniforms are not inherently bad. When my country’s soccer team takes to the field they wear a uniform. Is that bad? What about the guy who delivers my milk, the police that maintain order in my town, the postman, the nurses in my local hospital, the people that prepare and serve my burger at lunch – are all these people Nazis just for wearing an appropriate uniform?

You should take a look at the uniforms that they make boys wear, especially gradeschoolers..it had to have been designed by a pedophile.

Cesar Kohl

I think Pingmag is the best design source for Japanese contemporary culture: keep up the good work!

Eloy

this was a very informative article

Shari

I’ve asked Japanese people for years now about uniforms being worn outside of school and they agree about the laziness reason, but also that it allows for the easiest conformity and no one wants to be appreciably different looking from one’s peers for fear of being bullied.

I think the whole “cute” and “flaunting their youth” speculation is the projection of Westerners. In Japan, all you have to do to get a Japanese person to endorse your viewpoint is express it and they will agree because they are so reluctant to disagree. Not one person I’ve talked about with this in Japan in the 19 years I’ve lived here has said anything about “branding” themselves or showing off their youth. Such conclusions are surely the result of those who mainly know the culture through anime and cosplay.

Nowhere did I say that uniforms have their origin in fascim. I doubt you properly read my posting, I coudln’t possibly misinterpreted that wrongly. I said that one usually associates uniforms with military, because that’s what the prevalent place uniforms are used and come from. If you think military=fascim, that’s your totally wrong interpretation.

I don’t want schools to be associated with militarism, but that’s the association uniforms bring with them. What is the reasoning behind having children wear uniforms in school anyway? What’s the point?

And then I stated that having children wearing uniforms looks totally wrong to ME AS A GERMAN, because the last time that happened in MY COUNTRY in a large scale was with the Hitler Youth.

Geez, I wasn’t aware that it’s possible for illiterate people to post here…

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about the students in uniform in when they are not in school:
what i remember about my students was that they were very very busy, and those who went to private or specialized schools of had a long distance to travel, and did not have time to go home before going to special classes, music lessons, etc. also, i knew a lot of kids who had school, or some sort of school obligation on saturday mornings as well.
basically, the academically inclined (or pressured) teenagaer has no time to change clothes; its train school train, juku, english lesson train dinner sleep)
as far as the shocking heights and pedophilia, as a women i recall feeling uncomfortable seeing young girls in -5 winter weather ascending the escalator in nagoya winters not only for the titillation/objectification factor, but for the reddened freezing legs… and 10 centimeters between modest and lolita doesn´t make the girls any warmer if they are proscribed a certain type of socks and jumpers; but lolita does at least annoy their mothers and teachers and reaffirm what little power the girls have in their own life to explore and manipulate their sexuality as a public construct: even if it backfires by objectifying them in the end.

omphaloskeptic

Re: Bunglemeister

Nazism if a form of fascism. Pull out a dictionary before you call someone illiterate.

Your post clearly implies that uniforms are a symbol of Nazism/fascism (“the last time that happened in Germany those children belonged to the Hitler-youth”).

My point was that fascists or the military aren’t the only ones that use uniforms, and that likening school uniforms to such is a bit of a stretch.

And I guess one idea behind uniforms is to ensure certain standards of hygiene and modesty (whatever they may be) are maintained. Also there is school pride and recognition. I’m not saying these are valid reasons, but they are the ‘point’ of uniforms.

I’ve lived in Quito, Ecuador for six months now and i have noticed some similarities that this article talks about. it’s very interesting to know the history and trend of the Japan uniform culture.

joe

I think the current uniform is used in many countries and has nothing special. The manga and anime contributed to show this as a cliché of the japanesse culture.

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Isn’t it interesting how many people have left comments?

I bet y’all were looking for girls in these things. ^^

Rich D

Bunglemeister… I understand what you meant even if certain other people want to twist your words. But let me put it this way:

In the school I attended we were told that the purpose of a uniform was not to make everyone conform in a militaristic way, but to reduce the obvious ‘class’ differences. People came to the school whose families were fairly wealthy, and also people who were poor. But in one uniform it would be harder for any kids to discriminate based on money, status etc. Everyone was on a more or less equal footing.

Also there was the recognition aspect, and the other reasons given, but in the schools I have attended I never saw anything even approximating ‘school pride’.

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American schools are starting to look more like these believe it or not with the cuffs

We have uniforms in Australia, and I personally really like having them. I can identify with all the things said about this article, especially how the uniform is an mask to hide behind. And they’re so cute too!

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This is a awesome website! i think everything the about theose uniforms is right. i totally am going to buy on ^^ yay but u should put boys can wear tooi can”t wait to buy one!

mona sisa

wow… japanese school uniforms actually have an interesting history! i wish my school uniforms were as cute as those!

hello

Most American students tend to wear voluntary uniforms to school. They consist of t-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and skater shoes. Despite this very common and dull uniform, however, they still manage to show self-expression and independence by varying the appearance of the t-shirts with corporate and band logos.

cocona

ouah! really interesting history of the school uniform and of the usage/tradition ! I’ve always wanted to wear a uniform when I was still at school! I think this makes more polite and customizing the uniform is a cute way to show self-expression!

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I love Japannese’s school uniform as it
design special and so nice than others country ‘s school uniform !

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Great article very informative
Wearing the seifuku these days is a walking fashion statement.
keep up the great blogging!

Anonymous

hello im japanese girl

Interesting

This was like reading an article on British school uniforms. Although the British don’t have a fetish reputation with regards to the uniform, and thus that aspect is very different, school uniforms change from school to school (and are thus identifiers – and, between rival schools, “tribal” markings too) and children become very adept at using their uniform to rebel against the establishment or accesorise it to express a little individuality within a common setting.

You’d only have to change a small amount of this article to make it relevant to the UK as well.

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I was a student in a secondary school in Malaysia. Wearing a uniform was second nature and the only thing that was different was the uniforms of those of rank in school.

It didn’t matter that one was so rich, another was not made of money. We were dressed the same and it made things easier. Although we berated having to wear uniform to school everyday (though that might be caused by the white uniform that’s sometimes a pain to wash), and prefects moan of having to put on their ties, it wasn’t all that bad.

I don’t know of those who complain about students wearing uniforms but having worn them before, there’s nothing oppressive about it.

It’s a way to maintain modesty, regulation and intergrate the students with each other.

Be positive about it, will ya?

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Anonymous

Ah well, I pretty much guess uniforms in Singapore are just for an ‘identification that you are in a school’ kind of thing. Correct me if im wrong, but it darn strange to wear a uniform on other days than days you have school. Ill have to admit uniforms in singapore are not that appealing… only a handful are

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Interesting ! btw japanese summer boy’s school uniform looks like boy’s uniform in my country….prefer the winter version gakuran though….Those kind of school uniforms are so cool. To be honest – anime, manga, cosplay etc help boost their popularity worldwide…

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It is a widely-accepted phenomenon, and it stands to reason that the girls in question be aware of that, however I personally would(and do) do everything in my power to avoid being sexualised for my youth. I come from a country that has school uniforms, and they are not viewed as sexual, except perhaps by teenage boys.
But perhaps the girls gain social standing and recognition by working with what they’ve got.

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Thats actually pretty cool.