Alexis Mabille

For his first-ever Resort collection, Alexis Mabille decided to do things en español. Flamenco flounces. Floral and lace appliqués in the style of ceramic azulejo. Long-legged gaucho pants with a slit up the side. Mabille's mix of references seemed more instinctive than rigorous, which had the effect of making this showing feel a touch cluttered, especially inasmuch as he was also integrating sport and menswear elements, not to mention various iterations of his signature bow tie. But a few garments stood out, like those gaucho pants, and a tile-print button-down with full, slashed-open sleeves, and a simple khaki shirtdress with blue-toned piping. There were other good pieces, too, though it sometimes felt like hard work to extract them. Mabille's bow-handled clutches, on the other hand, were easy winners to spot.