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first off, HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!!
so, i started to do the timing belt on my 02 impreza outback today. 2.5 sohc. i aligned all the timing marks as per the manual. i removed the 1st idler pulley as the manual stated. removed the second pulley per the manual, and both cam sprockets flung out of time WTF. so, the manual says nothing about how to re-align everything if this happens. i dont know how far they went, which way, etc. i wasnt expecting that to happen. ive done several in the past and the cams never sprung off like that on me before. HELP PLEASE!!

Not to fear, on the sohc, provided you lined up the crank sprocket per the marks (which would also align the cam sprockets), then just rotate the cam sprockets back up to where the marks are. Usually I prefer to rotate them clockwise when standing in front of the engine (normal direction of rotation). The valves won't hit the pistons with the crank set at the timing alignment mark because no pistons are at tdc.

PHEW!! thanks, thats good to hear. yes i lined everything up before i started the removal. so i will just line the cams up again and get it back together. i got the wrong waterpump too, my car is automatic, i ordered the kit for automatic, but theres 2 bypass hose nipples, and my car only has one. so im stuck till friday when i can get the right pump and get it back together.

guess ill just eat lots of turkey tomorrow and worry about it on friday morning
thanks again!

You're on the wrong marks. The passenger side cam should not be under any tension when aligned to the proper timing mark. I think you used the arrows instead of the dashes.
Fear not, as when the cams spin it's because the valves are CLOSING. Review the proper marks for timing, then turn the crank to proper alignment first ( should only be 90 degrees clockwise) then set the cams.

When set properly:
The passenger side should rotate about 20 degrees in either direction of the timing mark with little/no resistance because the cam lobes will be between the rocker arms and there will be no spring pressure applied to the cam.
The drivers side cam should sit still and will have spring pressure applied directly on the nose of the lobes. This will make the cam difficult to turn by hand, and moving it more than a few teeth in either direction will cause it to snap over.

Arrows on the cam sprockets will point 45 degrees to the right.
Arrow on the crank will be at 90 degrees to the right. (as viewed directly)

Dashes for timing! Not arrows

Only differences I know of for water pumps are turbo vs non-turbo. Turbo pump will have multiple outlet pipes and a front facing thermostat opening. Non-turbo will have one outlet and down facing thermostat opening.

having them jump is typical, happens all the time. the cam moved, simply move it back. about as simple as you can get.

i guess you get it now, but don't overthink it - it is about as simple as you can imagine - line up the cam mark and timing mark on each side and you're done.

weird, i can't think of 2 different EJ water pumps...wonder what yours is, for a turbo EJ25 or something? strange.

i dunno... i ordered a gates timing belt component kit w/water pump from rock auto. it listed 2, one for automatic, one for standard trans. mines automatic, and thats the one i ordered, and it had an extra bypass nipple?? it came straight out towards the front of the car. mine has only the one that comes out towards the drivers side above the lower hose.

Nope, thats not it. It looked identical to the one I took off (t stat on the bottom not the front) only an extra nipple pointing towards the front of the car. that shows both nipples coming out the side.

Hm ok actually now that I look at that image again it might not represent the Forester actually, since I see they show that same image for all soobs, and Legacies of the mid 90's definitely didn't have the extra nipple. But Foresters do for the oil cooler/warmer.