Manzo: Simply excellent Italian

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Apr 09, 2019113

Entering Eataly, the perfume of freshly baked bread, cured meat and aged cheese hits hard. It draws you into the busy warmth of the Italian marketplace, where you could spend a few blissful months grazing. But inhale deeper and a heady blend of smoke and sizzling fat will lead you to Eataly’s jewel of a butcher’s restaurant: Manzo. That’s Italian for “beef,” the star on a menu that’s refreshingly unfussy.

“Being simple is just what Italian cooking is. … Simple, but paying a lot of attention,” executive chef Arnold Corpuz says. Paying attention starts with ingredients, and Manzo’s menu calls on partner farms that share an ethical, artisan approach. When the raw materials are this good, honoring them is a lot about proper cooking, and Corpuz’s team does most of it with a rustic, wood-burning grill.