I mounted my '56 Burb on a '00 GMC rolling chassis with Vortec engine and transmission.
I fabricated body mounts and moved the rear end springs mounts 3" forward. Fits like a glove. I used the GMC's brake pedel, master cylinder, gas pedal, steering column and wiring harness. The only thing I'm using on the Burb is the body, the rest if from the GMC. BTW I plan to tow my 22ft Airstream with it.

Thanks seon, now this is the kind of information I can use. My 58 truck is the same color as your burb. I can't tell by the photo angle but do the tires stick out past the fenders? If so, how do you plan to remedy this? Will you keep it at stock height or lower it?

Once I get it all together and iron the bugs out I plan on installing air bags to get it down low. The track is real tight and the tires may rub against the rear fender wells, but I plan to change rims with more of an offset. Worst case is that I'll narrow the rear end or have the fenders "expanded". But it'll be down lower. Not the best pic but it'll give you an idea of how it looks from the rear. By the time I get her on the road, I'll have the best of both world, late model technology with a classic look.

[quote]Originally posted by Trader:
<strong>tomslik, I am new at this forum stuff so bear with me. This conversion may not be major but I have limited knowledge and experience so I am looking for some help. Thanks for all the help.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I HAVE LIMITED KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

This is a major job, not for the faint of heart and the inexperienced.

Wake up, smell the roses and come up with another plan before you have two piles in your shop. One ...the 58 and two ..whatever you were trying to put under it.

This can be done. By your asking....tells me you do not know how and most likely will spend money and time to end up with a unfinished project you will hate.

This is NOT mean spirited or hateful. Just the truth. Many of the more hands on experienced members will tell you that they would have trouble remembering all the aborted "projects" they have seen and or looked at......and then bought it for parts. I worked in a salvage yard for years and have seen this played many times over.

IF you must proceed.......but do so with a more open look......

GOOD LUCK ! !

__________________

"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. "

Trader, keep asking your questions and we here will answer the best we can. Changing frames on your '58 truck is certainly do-able. As a matter of fact, I mounted a '57 GMC on a '77 dually one ton chassis and bed, using it for my "Home Depot" runs. I've also "clipped" a panel frame that was my daily driver for some 12 years. But as Deuce Roadster mentioned, there are guys out there that starts projects but never finished because lack of knowledge, tools, time, garage space and/or money. But that's what makes this hobby interesting...one could start from a "vision" or buy someone elses unfinished project. All comes out in the wash.

seon andwoodz428-I have the time, I'm retired and I have some friends that will help as soon as I decide what to do with this truck. If we start it, it WILL be finished. I knew there were several cars and trucks out there that would work, but rather than chase them down and measure them all I just thought someone had tried a similar swith and would save me some time.
trader

I was not trying to discourage you nor hinder you from your dream. Your dream can be done but it will take money, time, a place , tools and a lot of determination.

I took this 55 Chevrolet off it's frame and put it on another 55 Chevrolet frame (nonrusted) over 25 years ago. Just putting it back on the stock frame is not for a novice IF you want everything to fit. Fenders, doors and all of that have to be fitted back (keep in mind it was a stock but different frame).

I started with a stock original 1932 Ford frame and no body pieces and found every piece (original 32 Ford sheet metal) for this car. It was all made it all fit.

I am a hands on Rodder. Not a drugstore magazine reading mechanic. I made my living at a GM dealership years ago. I was a line service tech.

I suggest going to a few shows.....preferably truck shows.... and looking at some finished trucks (55-59) like yours. See what others have done and HOW IT TURNED OUT. See what they used and why. Narrowing a rear axle to keep the tires from rubbing is not a problem but narrowing the front IS.

IF you can cut, weld good enough to trust your life on it and fabricate..... and one of your friends is a body man to align all the pieces.........you might make it.

I truly HOPE SO.

Deuce Roadster.

.

__________________

"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. "

Trader - some very good advice above. Measurements are important, as you already know but don't get too stuck on them. A couple of inches too long in a wheelbase is easy to fix. A couple of inches too narrow or wide in track width may be fixable with offset rims.

I did a '52 with an S-10 4x4 chassis. Still working on it actually, but real life is getting in the way. I changed wheelbase and track width on my project enough to make it work.

I was really concerned about my project becoming "two piles of junk." This is a common problem, especially with people new to this kind of work who tend to bite off more then we can chew. I'm not much of a quitter, in fact I'm belligerent enough to finish something when I should have dropped it long ago.

The best advice I can give you is to keep your vehicle mobile as much as possible. This isn't the way a lot of people do things and creates a little more work in the long run. On the other hand, you don't have an immovable heap in the garage that discourages you every time you look at it. Just get it driveable as quick as you can. From the day I started stripping the donor to the day I was driving it (street legal!) was 2 months, 8 days. You don't need it street legal if you're just moving it around your garage.

OK now I see that there was a page 2 to this post and everything I wrote down has been discussed...
so.....nevermind. Below is some scribble.....

Hey Trader, I'm looking to do exactly the same thing. This is what I've found and I would appreciate any feed back. The late model frame's I've researched have been focused after '96 to take into account the "better" Vortec engines and OBDII, then more specifically after '97 to benefit from the reprogrammed automatic transmission for better efficiency. The model pickup I have found to be the closest match is a Reg Cab, Short Bed, 4x4. It measures: WB 117.5", Width 76.4", O/A Length 199.1"
A shortbed frame like ours measures: WB 114", Width 67", O/A Length 193"
It has to be a pickup, even though the Tahoe has the same wheelbase, because the pickup frame bends differently.
To remedy the difference in WB, I have researched having custom leaf springs in the rear made with the positioning dowel moved forward aprox. 3". The cost for this service I have found to be no more than $500 for all springs involved.
As for the width, Tomslik is right the s-10 has a 65" width (too narrow) and the late model width seem wider. I have found conflicting numbers in some truck books however that state the overall width of our trucks as 77" and the wheel width as 67". So can any one verify the actual body width of our trucks in the front? Was there a 5" gap on either side of our stock skinny wheels from the factory?
I don't have a frame anymore and all other body parts other than my Suburban shell are in storage.
Again, keep us up to date on what you find out.
Daren.....

S10 frames will work good, buld new mounts and use deeper ofset wheels. all the stuff you want is there. if you need parts they are easy to get.it just takes a little work and imagination.
thats what we call hot rodding. good luck and keep us posted. i`ve done several of these and they work good.

hey trader. I think the way to go is with a mustang 2 or plymouth volaire front end. the plymouth is quite easy to install. you need simply notch the frame rails (rather than cut them off!!) and box in the rest of the frame (to the back of the cab is as far as i have ever gone). then you can still bolt on your stock bumper and the core support bolts back in the stock location with no fabbing. the plymouth is a torsion bar front end, so doing air ride or just simply lowering is a breeze. as far as an s-dime frame................it can work, and will actually be pretty good as long as you pay attention and dont rush the fabrication involved.
no one wants an unsafe vehicle on the road!!
if you decide on the s-dime frame, chassis tech's dropped spindles for that application have a slightly wider stance than stock. my front end was widened by approx. 3 inches. so the correct tire size and wheel offset can look and function really good for your application.
also ............you may want to check into the s-dime blazer four door chassis. (pre 94 or 95)
they are completely boxed from front to rear, the only downfall is that they have a step up in the rear around the gas tank, so you would have to cut the frame to level it or step the floor of your bed to accomidate (not recommended). <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" />

Trader... I hope all of these posts haven't discouraged you too much. I still think that your idea is a good one. There are alot of negative comments going around. I really don't understand why. With some of the stuff I have seen and heard about being done, this one is no real big deal. You may even feel like takeing on a big project after that one.
I keep hearing everyone talk about S10 frames. I am getting the urge to use one for my Model A Tudor. NOT!

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