Oops, sorry for my misinterpretation.Wwest makes a good point - are your u-joints really going bad? Do you notice any noise or vibration? When you grab the shaft and rotate it can you see any sloppiness in the joints?If you're sure they're worn, I like your newer used idea. Can't help with how hard it is to replace.

The easiest thing to do would be to take the vehicle to your local Auto Zone or Advanced Discount Auto shop and have them run the codes. They'll do it for free and tell you the likely cause of each code.

After the initial visit I thought that they were talking about the rear of the three drive shafts and I crawled under tried twisting it and didn't feel any play. When I went back to get an inspection sticker I asked them to show me the problem when it was on the lift. Twisting the front shaft did show some play, which I assume was in the u-joints, although it wasn't terrible.

What makes me more suspicious that this is a more common problem is that the initial visit was to replace the PCV valve (which I had read here might help with the oil consumption problem) and to get an error code cleared. I wouldn't expect that checking the drive shafts would be part of the "free 20 point inspection" unless it was becoming a more common problem.Thanks.

There is ALWAYS a bit of play, to the level that one can easily feel/detect, but mostly due to the slop/slack in the front, PTO, ring and pinion matchup, or/and the rear diff'l ring and pinion.

Apply the e-brake, put the car in drive on a lift to "take up" the slack in the gears, and now try to detect any play.

I have seen no indication anywhere on the internet that any part of the rear driveline is subject to premature failure plus those components are almost never under any stress, simply along for the ride, marketing "AWD" "ride"

Marketing might refer to your HL as "AWD" but to me it remains a simple ONE-WHEEL drive vehicle, three fully open diff'l, front, center, and rear.

I don't understand how your experience with driving 11 years old RX300 or any other of the vehicles you've been driven through your lifetime has anything to do with your constant bashing of current HL AWD. Your vehicle doesn't have neither traction control nor stability control like HL does, and if you're are not satisfied with it get something modern. We have actual HL owners feedback here biosmonkey, "Advice about 2011 Highlander and AWD" #1, 27 Nov 2010 10:51 am and it is nothing but positive.

The real problem, actually, is that my '01 F/awd RX300 DOES have TC and VSC.

'01 was the first year of that implementation, along with HID, on the RX.

That's why Lexus and Toyota was able to drop the formulation of the viscous fluid in the VC to the point of non-functionality. With TC there is NEVER any opportunity of VC activity anyway so why make it functional.

Which is why the RX330 series, and maybe the RX350, along with likely your HL, doesn't have VC at all. Why have it in the drive line if it never gets to function.

The '99 & 00 F/awd RX300's had a more functional VC and an optional LSD. But the "Camry" transaxle proved to be not robust enough for those features so something had to "give".

Good, because that's one of the functions of TC, "simulation" of a mechanical LSD using differential braking.

You exactly right here, and it would be completely useless in 2gen HL AWD implementation. Can you put this non issue to rest? You've been spreading baseless rumors for years and even were banned from other Toyota forums for misleading info. Just stop.

Why do you think most of these F/awd implementations have a "TC off" mode...??

Can you imagine having to unlock the "center diff'l" of a fully functional F/awd system such as the SH-AWD in order to go up and going initially or even worse to get unstuck from a mudhole or snowdrift.

NOT..!!

Why not put just a little more trust in the owner/driver..??

Have a TC mode wherein the braking still provides re-apportionment of torque but with no engine dethrottling. There could even be a "time-out" function, if the driver continues to abuse the engine, revving too high with the brakes "hammering", the system could quickly convert back into the engine dethrottling mode, or even full TC off mode.

Oh, sorry, sometimes I forget that these are patently UNSAFE base FWD systems and front wheelspin MUST be abated with the utmost urgency to preven loss of directional control.

You misunderstand, it is the "2gen" that uses to TC to implement a "virtual" LSD.

Besides which there are several mechanical LSD versions that are much more desireable, less intrusive, and with more functionality, than one using the braking approach. But it's rather difficult to put those on the front of a base FWD vehicle without creating a serious level of knuckle-busting torque stear.

How can you compare SH-AWD here when it is used on vehicles that cost almost twice as much as a HL? I'm trying to tell you that you are wrong with your homegrown theories that trying to prove that HL AWD somehow deficient or even dangerous to drive. HL AWD is perfectly suitable for what it is designed. Would I pay extra $5K for SH-AWD in a HL - the answer is NO. You can improve many things in any vehicle but in this case if improvement comes with major price increase or with FUE sacrifice then it is completely unnecessary. HL already has very efficient AWD system and no one cares if your theories and your technical mambo jumbo agree with it or not. Read about actual owner's experience here http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f21ebcd/0 I know it is out of the question but you might want actually try driving a HL. So far all you have just theories.

Let's get back to maintenance and repair please so the owners can solve real problems instead of getting sidetracked with uncommon theories that aren't yet recognized by any automotive safety organization in the real world. There are other sites on the net for dissecting the minutia of how best to deliver traction to a car's wheels that are beyond the scope of the AWD v 4WD discussions we host here.

Anybody got any good news on this problem. My 2004 Limited Edition roof failed open. I can hear the plastic grind, tried the disconnect battery. Also am trying body shops as they do repair interiors/etc. and probably can put the cable/track in easily. Cost is still rising though. One place quoted me $600. Maybe I should take it. Part they say is $350.Thanks - new to the forum.

I have 2008 Toyota Highlander Ltd. The roof failed after about 2 years of ownership. I have hardly ever used the roof - up to that point maybe less than 10 times. I purchased the car used and so maybe the previous owner used the sunroof more often, but I could not believe that it failed so quickly. I had a similar problem. The roof did not want to close. When I pressed slide to close it popped up and vice versa. I took it to the dealership and they confirmed that the cable is no good and needs replacement. The price they quoted was $700. I refuse to spend so much money on the roof, especially since it must have defective since the beginning. I begged them if there was anything they could do for me. Eventually, they fixed it free of charge, but I have not used the roof since fearing that I will run into problems again. Also, ever since the repair I have noticed raindrops alongside the rubber seal every time it rains.

I have owned 5 toyotas and currently have 3. All with moon roofs and never had a problem. The Highlander "Limited" is supposed to be the grand daddy of them. Guess not. I didn't drive it much in the winter (other cars) and the brakes rusted (that was truly my fault.) With a all wheel drive, you really have to drive it regularly. I've asked a question on justask.com site and we'll see. They gave somebody directions on how to pull the headliner down and replace the cable/track for $100 in parts. That I can do.

I have a 2002 hl and both rear windows will not go down. When I push the button on the driver's door, or on the rear door (either one) I hear a click, but nothing. It sounds just like when a window is up all the way and you click it to go up. It is the main control, or is the window stuck, as there are message boards which discuss that the window channel on these cars are also a problem. thanks, rr70

I own a 2003 Highlander Limited AWD with approximately 93,000 miles. Last September I started getting a chattering sound which appeared to come from the middle or rear portion of the car when accelerating from a stop. It was almost as if the ABS was engaging when pulling away from a dead stop. It didn't happen all the time and only lasted a few seconds. I took it into the Toyota dealer and was told it was the ABS sensors which had rusted and had to be replaced. Fast forward to last week when the chattering reappeared. I took it back into the dealer and they replaced the ABS sensors but the sound continued. Now they are saying it is the anti-skid computer which I assume is the ECU that is faulty and must be totally replaced at a cost of over $2000. When asked if this is common, the Toyota shop said no and had replaced very few if any. Should I get a second opinion? Is there anyway to test this part to determine if it is indeed faulty? Could it be anything else? Anyone know if this is a part subject to any recalls? Appreciate any advice you can provide.

Disable the VSC/trac system by disconnecting the MAF/IAT module while the engine is idling. The engine will probably die, reconnect the module, restart the engine and now you will have a CEL & VSC/Trac diagnostic indication for a few drive cycles.

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try and see what happens. One thing I forgot to mention and was wondering if it would make a difference. None of the dash warning lights for the ABS appear to come on when this occurs.

We have a 2002 V-6 AWD Highlander with 67,000 miles. Problem: from closed throttle (especially, it seems, when stopped), the throttle does not open smoothly and in a linear manner. Instead, more and more pressure on the acc. pedal needs to be applied in an effort to get going, then it feels that something gives way and the car lurches forward. It's difficult to get precise bits of acceleration, as when pulling into the garage. I suspect that the throttle plate has worn a groove into its housing. Has anyone encountered a similar problem? Thanks for your help.