At the risk of you inferring cash for comment, I’m going to let slip that John Laws and his third wife, Caroline, dined at the table next to mine. They dine here every Monday night; and order steak and chips each time.

So it might not be surprising that despite the double-barrelled name, my Angus Eye Fillet ($45.90/300g) comes up trumps?

Chef David Kim (ex-Wildfire) cooked it slowly as I cracked into a kilo of Queensland Mud Crab ($69.50), Singapore Chilli style.

The crab was well handled, with a compelling (if not totally authentic) sauce.

(It made me wish I'd saved some of the yummy Sonoma bread to scoop it up with!)

My steak, medium-rare all the way through, arrived with a wicked veal jus. Deciding between that and the cracking Béarnaise ($2.50) was torture; worsened because I had to try the Habanero Relish ($2.50) too. The latter being more horseradish than heat.

Everything went swimmingly with the 2008 Lowburn Ferry Pinot Noir ($78). James Keighley recommended it, and led the floor team with aplomb. Kipflers, Spinach and Chorizo ($9.90) wrap up all your side needs in one bowl of perfectly cooked potatoes.

Despite that, we had the Chilli Roast Beetroot, Spring Onion and Sour Cream ($7.90) too. It was a little bland, so I wouldn't hit it.

I loved the White Adriatic Fig and Jamon Iberico ($19.90) I had as an entree, too.

I got a bit excited by the idea of seasonally appropriate and simple Lemon Pudding ($13.90) with marscapone ice cream on the dessert menu too, but wasn't sold on the surrounding lake of strawberry sauce. Despite this being the last restaurant along an expensive row, it’s actually the least pretentious and stuffy. So bring your kids if they like good steak, too!