So i have 2 aluminum lug nuts that are completely stripped out and stuck on. i need to get the wheel off due to my axel nut being loose. i had the car at Flatt tire and they broke the key and than had to try and get them off with sockets and that stripped them. they tried using the sockets that have gripping teeth in them and they still couldnt't manage to get them off.. does anyone know any other way to possibly get them out besides drilling out the studs? i just changed them to arp extended and not really looking to ruin them. flatt said the only way was to ruin the wheel which id rather not do either.. anyone have any suggestions?

I GOT IT! so pumped lol i took the tool meant for the wheels that flatt tire broke and welded it the best i could back together and grinded it down and it worked! talked to a guy at another wheel shop and he said that you should never use aluminum lug nuts on steel studs.. does anyone know why they would make these lugs if when put together they seize?

I GOT IT! so pumped lol does anyone know why they would make these lugs if when put together they seize?

Good deal man....sorry we couldn't help, we need pics next time to have a better idea of issue. Now as far as to why they make them it is simple to answer.

It is somewhat of a trend......extended studs were primarily meant for racing (just like any racing only stamped part). Problem is the aftermarket world intends them for that but consumers want it for every day use. So the other sneeky half of the aftermarket world (the cheap knock off companies and some legit ones) like to cash in and try to sell them for everyone to use because it is "stylish" or gives the consumer that "race like" feel. So people go and buy their stuff, put it together and later realize that parts don't work with each other as they were "intended". The best bet is to arm yourself with some information before purchasing these parts. Research as much as you can so you don't end up in the same boat many people end up in. Another key essential bit that most neglect at times deals with torque specs.....most people I have met think that the tighter you make those lug nuts the less likely the wheel will come off....then just as they torque them harde enough.. "SNAP"......There goes the stud breaking off. People don't want to spend money on the tools needed to torque things to spec.....heck, a $20 torque wrench at harbor freight may not be the "best of the best" but if it helps not break studs....why not spend the money?

Now make sure you don't think any of this means you didn't do or take the proper steps, I'm just answering the question above so that everyone can understand the "why do they do this!" Lol

I GOT IT! so pumped lol i took the tool meant for the wheels that flatt tire broke and welded it the best i could back together and grinded it down and it worked! talked to a guy at another wheel shop and he said that you should never use aluminum lug nuts on steel studs.. does anyone know why they would make these lugs if when put together they seize?

Well, aluminium and steel combos are common. Using them does not make it immediately seize. Lots of heads have steel studs that go into them for intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds. They seize due to high temps, improper torquing, lack of cleaning off the threads etc.

Whenever dealing with this - a small amount of anti-seize or high-temp anti-seize will greatly reduce chances of having issues. Anti-seize will not cause it to immediately back-off as long as torqued to the right specs.

Well, aluminium and steel combos are common. Using them does not make it immediately seize. Lots of heads have steel studs that go into them for intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds. They seize due to high temps, improper torquing, lack of cleaning off the threads etc.

Whenever dealing with this - a small amount of anti-seize or high-temp anti-seize will greatly reduce chances of having issues. Anti-seize will not cause it to immediately back-off as long as torqued to the right specs.

Anti-seize is ok for some things. Manufacturers say not to apply it to wheel studs though because it changes the actual clamping force applied. I just had an S in that the owner did this WITH aluminum lug nuts. You just have to be careful and use good judgement. Consulting the manufacturer and upgrading to a stronger stud are never a bad idea though.

(Nothing but respect for you KC. I'm just referring to the OEM applications I see every day.)

For my car, I have extended studs, and I rock the stock steel wheels with hubcaps with the factory Honda lugs that I have modified. I then need different lugs for my slicks at the track, so I use aluminum 45* taper nuts. Lots of tire changes throughout the year. I just put a small amount of copper anti-seize in there and I have never had a problem. Proper torque is a must. 76-80 ft-lbs is the Honda factory spec. When you are running the nuts on and off quite a bit, I always recommend doing a little Saturday boredom maintenance once a month. Clean up the studs, make sure the threads are not stretched, put it back together. Should not have any problems.