Description

Very nice handjamming the entire way. One of the best cracks I have ever climbed. Pro is good, bring a 60m rope.

Location

The obvious crack to the right of 'local boys do good.' The approach is from Shannon Falls parking lot. Hike up the trail towards the falls until you see a large log that spans the width of the creek to your right. Cross the log and rock hop across to gain access to the steep trail that leads directly to the routes.

Protection

Rack: set of nuts, many cams from Camalot .5 to 2. Two bolt anchor at top.

Approach (update): cross south on the new bridge (the one you took to get into the parking lot). Several paces beyond, there is a trail that leads up into the trees, next to a sign. Follow this. The trail will go up and up, and then descend to cross a minor drainage (footbridge), and then climb again.

Shannon Falls, Klahanie crack area. There is a nice concentration of climbs close together. I ,TRd a slab between Klahanie using K anchors and a bolt from Split Decision, A new climb ?, or an old TR problem? I hope no one bolts it as it would be a bit cramped.

Hilariously secure climbing, you can just cruise on this thing. Thinner than it looks from the ground. You could place some #2 or #3 Camalots if you wanted in those pods, but I found if there's a pod at your face you might as well climb a bit higher so your foot's in it, and place from there. I've found a rack of 2 .5s, 2 .75s and 1 #1 Camalot is sufficient.

Also, if your rack is slim and your fear is high you should know that the back of the crack often accepts smaller cams, and you can definitely place big bomber nuts too if that's your thing.