RANGDUM MONASTERY

THE VILLAGE of Rangdum serves as a night halt between Kargil and Zanskar. Though geographically part of the Suru Valley, its largely Buddhist population and its monastery orient it culturally towards Zanskar. Situated on a wide flat plateau at 3,800 m (12,467 ft), crisscrossed by water courses, and framed by snow peaks and hills of curiously striated rock, Rangdum has a wild, desolate beauty. The fortress-like 18thcentury Gelugpa Monastery is built on a hillock, and a small temple in the complex has a fine wall painting of a battle-scene, with warriors sporting Mongolian-looking armour and battledress.