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Monday, October 15, 2012

What could be better than an early February trip to Cali to help out at one of Heather Ross's famed sewing weekends? That's right, I will be guest teaching at the weekend retreat located at the renowned Asilomar Conference Center in Pacific Grove, CA. I can just hear the waves lapping and the sewing machines humming! A few spots are still left and you can register and get more details here.

As part of my duties at the retreat, I have been recruited to do a presentation on vintage bathing suits. Luckily, this is a topic I am obsessed with. I will certainly be bringing my small collection of Rose Marie Reid suits to show off. These "sculptured sheaths" and "hourglass maillots" were built like evening dresses!

Which brings me to a question for you, readers. I sense that there is a lot of demand for a vintage-style swimsuit pattern. Am I correct? If so, what kind of pattern would this be, ideally? 50s swimsuits did not have spandex; they were made from cotton or nylon and elasticized with shirring. But as modern ladies, do we prefer a vintage style in a modern fabric like spandex? Or do you want the fully authentic thing: a "playsuit" silhouette in cotton and elastic shirring?
Thank you for any feedback you can provide!

P.S. Also, I am lucky enough to own the swimsuit pictured in the ad below, it will definitely be coming to California with me!

99 comments:

Personally - I'd rather have a cotton swimsuit pattern with elastic shirring - more authentic (and I hate sewing with stretchy fabrics!) Like the glorious 1950s swimsuit patterns that I can't afford and can't fit into anyway.

For practicality, a spandex suit would be my preference. I own several repro styles that are constructed in modern fabric and they are so much more versatile around water (and kids) and they clean more easily than cotton. I rarely wear my vintage suits because the cotton and boning is uncomfortable in the heat and the fabric takes too long to dry once damp. Also, I love the slimming effect that two layers of spandex (i.e. on modern repro suits) has on a figure, whether one has had children or not. Thanks for considering this new design!

I vote for modern fabrics too. Although I've never tried to sew lycra or spandex fabrics... Maybe there are swimsuit fabrics that aren't too stretchy? Even when sewing knits I tend to choose more stable knits or doubleknit instead of the thinner knit fabrics which curl up too much at the sides. In absence of a serger I would love to have instructions on how to sew with a regular sewing machine.

I was always personally crazy about the white one-piece that Marylin Monroe wore for her famous beach photo-shoot. I had tons of vintage bathing suit patterns but none were quite right so I went ahead and designed my own!http://mrsdepew.com/beach-patterns/one-piece-bathing-suit.html

Most of the vintage patterns in my collection called for jersey, especially the dozen or so French ones that I have from the 1950's. They all featured jersey with zippers.

I guess I'm one of the odd ones out, but I'd prefer a cotton playsuit pattern. I already own a (store bought) vintage-inspired suit in modern materials, so I'd love to round out my beach wardrobe with a more "authentic" piece. Either way, I'd definitely be interested in a Gertie bathing suit pattern!

I think that I would be incredibly interested in a cotton playsuit pattern--but I live in the Pacific Northwest where it was only warm enough this past summer to sport my swimsuit a grand three times. But, if there for convenience reasons modern materials would work best for the majority, then I would agree that information about sewing a knit would be helpful. Also, links to online retailers of swim-appropriate fabrics would be lovely:)

Hi there....fantastic idea! I would definitely make myself a perfectly fitting vintage-style suit. Spandex is great because of its quick drying abilities, but I would make the cotton one if that was the only option....

I'd really prefer a spandex suit with the glamourous stylings of a vintage suit. I did water aerobics this past summer, and had lots of trouble finding a modest suit that didn't look like I was on the swim team - I believe that the vintage suit styles would be most appropriate for allowing me to feel "covered up".

Neat-o! Wish I lived in Cali right now...I vote for cotton, as there's more versatility in print and I hate the way spandex wears out. I have a shirred red velvet swimsuit from the 50's, and it's still vibrant red and looks great after all these years and trips to springs, lake, etc!

Ya know, I'm surprised by my own answer, but I'd prefer vintage-like materials. I'd love such a pattern for the sewing experience alone, and I'd wear such a suit when I'm following baby at the splash pad or other occasions I don't expect to become immersed in water.

However, if I were going swimming to actually swim, I'd want modern materials with their ability to move with my body.

So when it comes down to it, I'd prefer vintage-like materials because it's pretty rare I actually swim.

I would like to see a vintage style updated using modern materials, more so for practical reasons. I think modern spandex fabrics move better with the body. It would be nice if the pattern had a few options for cover ups too, kind of a beach and beyond look. There are few repro patterns for separates, but they offer pretty much only dressier options. I would like to see more repro patterns with summer casual separates.

I'd love a vintage swimsuit pattern, but I'm in the camp that would like to use modern fabrics. I'd want to be able to swim in my swimsuit. However, I've never tried to swim in a vintage suit, so maybe it's not as problematic as I think it would be.

I have a vintage-style halter one-piece suit with a shirred front and low cut legs that I love. It's the best looking, fitting and functioning swim suit I've ever had. All spandex, though.

I'd like both options. On the one hand - how fun to make a real vintage suit, with vintage materials. On the other... uh, I swim. I don't burn to battle the surf while wearing 5lb of wet fabric - or finding out how fast those strapless suits fall off when a wave hits them.

I've always preferred cotton, and recently discovered how easy it is to use elastic shirring techniques! I feel like a cotton bathing suit has more fidelity to real vintage style, but spandex is probably more practical. I still vote cotton though! Congrats on your team up with Heather Ross :)

I never realised it was made from different material. wow huge factor in the making of them . i have seen lots of them around lately and love them .i love the fact my but will fit in it and wont fall out when walking. I think the new material would be better for usage. Drying etc. But will it have the same amazing look .. ? eech i want one now. kaz xx

I prefer cotton for the swimsuit; I have tons of spandex since I'm a fitness freak! It would be easier for me to sew cotton as well. I adore the light pink suit with the white buttons at the very top of this post, as an example. Oh and I live in Cali so anytime you're here is great!

I would love to see a pattern in a woven fabric with all the structure and boning. I think spandex is too shiny and clingy to give the same look. I was looking into modern woven fabrics that would be water-resistant and found that board short material might be the perfect middle ground for sewing one of these vintage sun suits. It won't absorb a lot of water (and sag like cotton) and it drys quickly. There weren't a lot of options even available, but there were some nice tropical prints.

i love the playsuit style and actually had one made out of cotton pique which was darling and i'd wear it right now if it was still around.

however, no one will care what bathing suit you're wearing for a surf lesson in february in pacific grove, because you'll be wearing a full length wetsuit, actually, you'd be better off with a dry suit like they wear in the arctic, because that water is going to be C-0-L-D...not to mention the frigid air temp...and i'm a lifelong SoCal woman...

I would love a vintage style in a modern fabric — something that looks fabulous & has some practicality when it comes to going to the beach or pool. Also, I definitely like the idea (mentioned above) of a matching wrap that could go with the suit.

Also, I would like Gertie Designs all made up that I can buy! I am in the category of loving your stuff but not being able to make it myself. I would like to support a Gertie label, please!

I love vintage bathing suits! I actually made myself one earlier this year out of lycra/spandex and picked a fabric that had a vintage look to it. Here is the link to my post and tut about it http://stitchafterstitch88.blogspot.com/2012/01/swimmin-in-teal.html This was my first time ever making a bathing suit, so it's not perfect...especially since I made it up as I was going.

I think it would be great if you came out with a vintage bathing suit pattern using spandex!

There are plenty of retro swimsuit companies around doing cute suits in spandex/stretch, but authentic cotton with boning is the real deal and real vintage ones are hard to find and getting too fragile to wear (if they're still in good condition). I do believe the comfort of spandex is an illusion, because it stretches and doesn't actually support your figure the way a properly fitted cotton suit will. Please Gertie do a 'real' 50s swimsuit!

Lots of companies are doing spandex vintage repros and it's not hard to find 'vintage appropriate'in mainstream brands too. Pearl is right and older suits should be preserved rather than worn, so we really need more access to quality patterns. I think the point about boning being uncomfortable may be the result of wearing something that is not tailored to your own shape, so making something would probably remedy this too. Of course if you want to please everyone you can offer both versions, they are very different beasts after all.

Oh my, YES for a swimsuit. I am about to attempt my own because there are NO good ones out there (except vintage, but I have yet to find a good one for an ok price). I've found one modern one, but it's the same old Esther Williams style. We need something different! Esther Williams style are now EVERYWHERE.

It would be fabulous to have an option for vintage style fabrics to be used, but also tips to be able to use newer materials. I swim a lot in the ocean, and need something to stay on in the waves! (I once had a one piece come off!).

For the practicality, I would like it in spandex. I have a few vintage-y suits that I bought on etsy that are made with spandex, but I'd love to be able to make one of my own. I know that burdastyle has a free swimsuit pattern that's a little vintage inspired as well.

I vote modern fabrics. While I'm not fond of sewing stretchy materials, the idea of getting a cotton swimsuit wet is NOT appealing, and having that much fabric on in the sun means I definitely want to go swimming - not just lay on the beach.

I'm so envious you own that gorgeous swimsuit!!!! You lucky gal!I think I'd have to agree with some of the other readers and say that I'd like a swimsuit that I could actually swim in. I really love the old styles, but I'd like the practicality too :)

A swimsuit pattern would be uber grand! I'm in the process of making one up out of a retro 70's book on making underwear, and it's great fun but a little bit challenging! The patterns are all drawn on grip paper that you have to upscale, and then alter to fit your shape properly... It's quite the challenge. But fun nonetheless. Either way, an old school pattern drawn up in a modern way would be grand :)

I know you will get a million comments, but I'd like to add my two cents worth in :) I would LOVE a vintage style swimsuit pattern, complete with all the boning etc that make them so different from today's swimsuits. I would also like the recommended fabric to be cotton with shirring for elasticity. I have a couple of cotton swimsuits (reproduction ones) and contrary to what people think you can swim in them, because I do :)

I vote for modern fabrics. I honestly think the market for people who want to make an authentic swimsuit with boning is extremely small, and if you are releasing a Butterick pattern you should probably try to appeal to a greater population. I just don't see it selling enough for it to stay in-print. However I think if you independently released a boning swimsuit that would be great!

I agree with some others, a pattern that can be done in both cotton and spandex or whatever stretchy fabric is available. I have never sewn with spandex, but my swimming suit, after maybe 1 year's worth of wear, went from a nice top and swimming shorts, to a knee-length dress and floor-length skirt. So I need a new swimsuit.

And can you get it in a size higher than 16, say 22 (or 26 or 28)? I'm doing Gertie's Bombshell course from Crafty and it's a whole new experience upping a pattern to my very large size. Having a pattern as close to my size as possible would be excellent.

I would love a vintage style suit! I like the idea of a non-stretch one, but in practicality with boning etc I am not sure how comfortable it would be here in our climate. Summer days here are 85F+ and super humid. So therefore my vote is for wearability which means spandex. Although, if I am being greedy the option for cotton would be good too!

One more vote for a pattern for lycra! Sometimes I'll have a daydream & search through the swimsuit section on vintage patterns wiki, but as much as I love the idea of an authentic vintage pattern, I know I'll never buy one. I have a pair of maillot bathers that I bought a while ago but would love to be able to make my own :)

I would love an authentic non-stretch pattern . I had my mother's 1960 red-cotton zip-up-the-front cossie and wore it for about 20 years till it fell to pieces. It was way more comfortable than a modern one - made from a sort of lightweight denimy cotton. So you don't have to choose between stretch and comfort - non-stretch is comfortable and looks great. (Here in the land of Oz, staying cool while not actually in the water, but still at the beach, makes cotton way better than stretchy syntetic).

A 50's swimsuit pattern? Yes please! I have been mocking them up from evening dress bodices myself and I've used slightly stretchy cotton sateen. I think it gives a nice vintage look with the added comfort of a bit of stretch. Haven't actually worn it in the water though!

A 50s or 60s pattern (I love the shape of the 50s but the 60s also has some cool cut out styles), but yes yes yes to modern fabrics. They stand up to practical wear and there's a reason that swimsuits are made from these fabrics nowadays - wearability! In terms of actual use in the water, and re-wear. Plus, as someone said above, better for holding you in as well!

Gertie, I would be happy with whatever design/fabric you come up with, but for the love of God puhLEASE put in an underwire for the bust? That is my only requirement, because I have major Boobage to contend with, and making my own vintage-style suit would be perfection!

What I love about vintage swimsuits is that they thought about cut & design to flatter the figure, precisely because they didn't have stretch/spandex to work with.Love this knitted version from zilderoh's blog:http://zilredloh.com/2012/06/22/stitchcraft-freebie-lovely-40s-bathing-suit/Chevron design is awesomely minimising (visual illusions!) And its not the same ol' halter/bombshell design you see everywhere (which I love, and have already).

in the late 50's i had a bathing suit with inflatable bra cups. yes indeed.it was very cute. blue and white gingham with a front panel edged with white ruffles and the typical 'skirt' bottom feature. it was some kind of stretch fabric.

the cups were made of vinyl or something and had little tubes that you blew up. then you had to hurry up and fold the tubes really tight before the air escaped. when the tubes were folded up, you tucked them into a tiny flapped 'pocket'. when you swam, you had to hope that one bra cup wouldn't lose air and the other remain blown up. if you were satisfied with your own size, you just left everything alone. of course, at 14, no one is satisfied with their own size. what a surprise!!

If I sew a swimsuit it would be for my 18 year old daughter who has preferred vintage style swimsuits since she was 14. But she wants her suit with lycra/spandex. The best of both worlds. She likes the shaped cups of most vintage suits because she has to add a silicone bra insert to one cup. For sunbathing, the lycra/spandex wouldn't be necessary, but for swimming I would definitely want it.

I have a fabulous vintage "playsuit-style" swimsuit that a friend of mine gave me. I've kept it over 20 years now, and it was vintage 50s when I received it. Unfortunately, I can no longer fit into it, but it's fabulous--cotton, boned bodice and extremely comfortable. Yes, I'd much rather have a cotton swim suit. This one is too adorable to part with, even though I probably will never be able to wear it again! It's a Catalina!

I say fabric! There are plenty of spandex reproduction suits on the market already. It would be fun to make a more authentic vintage style suit. Regular fabric probably lends itself to more design details than spandex would, plus you could wear it with shorts or a cute skirt too.

Oh, please, modern fabric - I'll want to wear it all the time, and one has to think of drying times - especially with gathers and lining. If you are interested, I can find some photos we took of my Aunt's 'Hollywood' style black and white chevron swimming costume - utter divinity. It's in a museum now - one where people can access costumes for purposes of sewing inspiration - some things are so good, they HAVE to be repeated. There was a toweling beach cover up as well. I took lots of photos for the purpose of making up a new one. (jmfisher@tpg.com.au)

I took a class once from a woman who makes custom swimsuits for competition. Sewing swimsuits of spandex is a completely different skill than any other kind of sewing I have seen. I don't think just having a pattern would equip the average intermediate level sewer to be able to make a successful swimsuit -- or even most advanced sewers who did not have the special skills.

I love the vintage shirred bathing suits and have a couple in my collection. I'd love to be able to sew my own but cannot find suitable shirring elastic. The elastic used in the bathing suits it have is quite thick and rubbery and nothing like the thin shirring elastic that you find in stores today. Do you ave any ideas about where to find the proper elastic for these types on suits?

Dear Gertie, lots of bathing suits back in the day were made of Lastex fabric (fabric with latex rubber) which was a precursor to Spandex.I think having a vintage style pattern fit for todays modern fabrics is a great idea!