In a city with no shortage of little jewels of restaurants, it’s hard to compile the definitive list. So why bother trying. Along with its better known, teeny-tiny Columbus Street jewel, Osteria del Forno, Cinqueterre represents the heart of North Beach – the true ethnic spirit of a swiftly-changing neighborhood.

But forget all that meta-symbolic blah blah blah – the food is spectacular.

Last night was my fifth or sixth visit. My partner-in-food-hunting had the lasagna. I tried my first non-pasta dish – the stuffed chicken which came with a divine roasted tomato and a polenta pillow topped with mushrooms. Warmed up and cooled off by their new Lambrusco (a light, fizzy red, served chilled) which is sweeter and less dry than the previous, we tucked into our dinners expecting the best and getting it in each heavenly bite.

If you can, and it’s tough, save room for any of their fantastic desserts.

And the service is always attentive and warm.

Having run out of glowing adverbs and having posted on this place numerous times, I’ll close with yet another stern warning: if you miss the chance to eat here, your life will be emptier for its absence. Make it your first-date destination. Your date will be impressed and so will your taste buds.