Zapallares Riesling Reserva Chile 2017 £7.50, Davy’s I’ve been seriously interested in wine for at least 25 years now, enough time to come to a sad, weary conclusion: riesling will never have its much-promised revival in the UK. Sure, the great white grape variety has its initiates, those for whom the great riesling names of Germany, Alsace and Austria (and, increasingly, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the USA), are a match for anything chardonnay can offer. But for most people, it seems, riesling is both too strong in character and too unpredictable. That searing steel core of acidity that all riesling has divides opinion, as does the petrolly whiff it takes on as it ages; plus you’re never quite sure if it’s going to be austerely dry or surprisingly sweet. I’ll have to concede that Zapallares’ dry effort is not for everyone, then; but for me, its graceful citrus raciness is quite the summer bargain.

Tesco Finest Tingleup Riesling Western Australia, 2017 (£8.50) There are bargains to be had, too, for lovers of the distinctive, pristine, limey style of riesling made in Australia. From the South Australian region that has become all-but-synonymous with the variety, Aldi’s Exquisite Clare Valley Riesling 2017 (£6.99) is a consistent standout in the retailer’s range, totally invigorating in its lime-and-lemon punchiness. And from Western Australia, Tesco’s longstanding, outstanding contribution to the genre is the aptonymous Tingleup, which actually takes its name from the vineyard used by producer Howard Park, but which perfectly suits its mouthwatering, just off-dry qualities. Both of these are fine hot-day matches for big piles of leafy green salad or stir fries, with or without garlicky seafood and Vietnamese or Thai herbs and spices. The apogee of this genre, the laser-guided minerals and lime skin of Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley 2017 (£28.25, Hennings Wine), meanwhile, is a treat to share with oysters.

Künstler Riesling Trocken Germany 2016 (from £12.95, The Wine Society; Tannico) My favourite rieslings are still made in the variety’s traditional European homes. Germany has the greatest range of styles. There’s the filigree floral delicacy of low-alcohol Mosel Kabinett, such as JJ Prüm’s masterful 2015 (£16.95, Private Cellar), which smells like a springtime meadow and tastes of perfectly ripe nectarines, all balanced with a crystalline spine of acidity. Or the richer, fuller, subtly spicy, tangily, twangily vibrant dry style made by Künstler in the Rheingau. Alsace, too, is good for dry or off-dry fullness of flavour: Cave de Turkheim Reserve Riesling, Alsace 2015 (from £10.59, Rannoch Scott; Cheers Wine Merchants) is good value for its honeyed has citrus briskness; while Trimbach Riesling Sélection Vieilles Vignes, Alsace 2015 (£21.95, The Wine Society), is a multilayered but gorgeously harmonious wine that I’d hope would convert even die-hard riesling sceptics.

This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative. The links are powered by Skimlinks. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that Skimlinks cookies will be set. More information.