Paddling Nazaré Ain’t for the Faint of Heart – From the grit-your-teeth-and-go department

Sure, there are sneaker sets that would love to devour you whole at Jaws, and Mavericks has a nasty habit of jacking up at the last second leaving little choice but to airdrop (or faceplant trying), but at least some of the time they seem to follow some kind of governing principles regarding where and how they break.

In the edit above, you’ll find no shortage of heroism from surfers like Kai Lenny, Lucas Chumbo, Nic Von Rupp, Tome Lowe, JoJo Roper, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Will Skudin and more, but in the shifty, unruly, mountainous peaks, it seems less calculated and more kamikaze.