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Just like the title says. Plus, it is recessed brake 'drilled' and also has a slot running down the threads for spacers. Condition is ok. I certainly don't think this fork is going to go on anything super drool worthy anyway, but if you have a frame that needs a fork then this one will get you down the road. I'll try to get some pictures of it up soon, but I wanted to make sure I got any interested peoples attention sooner rather than later. I believe it is carbon wrapped aluminum? But I'm not sure, and I also don't know the brand (I could post the serial number on the steerer if anyone is interested), but I would be tempted to say it is a generic Nashbar carbon fork: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...9 4_-1___202347 Anyway, if anyone can use it, I was thinking $30+shipping. Let me kno

Hello everyone ! It's been 15 years I haven't hop on a bike, but I just got one a month ago and decided to get my groove on again :) I came here to expand my mountain bike knowledge and share with other fans too ! See ya ! :thumb:

I just bought a Fuji traverse 1.3 hybrid bike at my lbs that i work at for 445$ check it out. - See more at: http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/al.... FJEtVBg6.dpuf - See more at: http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/al.... FJEtVBg6.dpuf

Potential Portland to San Fran bike ride I have coming up might be a bust due to a friend not being able to do it. Not that I can't do it on my own, but I figure with the extra cost of flying to Portland, and not meeting a friend there at all, maybe I will save the Pacific NW for another time. Right now my current summer plans have me heading to Vegas for a week to do Grand Canyon and then spending the weekend there. I've got a one way ticket to Vegas from Denver. I was planning on flying to Portland from Vegas after that trip is over, but I figured if this thing doesn't happen I need to come up with something else. So I'm thinking about Vegas back to D-town. I've got roughly 2 1/2 weeks, (Last week of July, 1st week and a half of August) I could stretch it out to three if I have to. Is th

I have a 1985ish Road bike with a braze-on for the front derailleur. I'm building a 3x8 drivetrain and can't find a period correct front derailleur for triple with a braze-on mount. My choice among modern front derailleurs includes the Sora FD-3403 and the Tiagra FD-4503. The Sora is designed for an 8-speed chain, the Tiagra for a 9-speed chain. I'll be using friction mode downtube shifters, so indexing accuracy is not an issue. Will the Sora perform well, or will I regret buying a low cost component?

This is not very important, but I'm curious: I just noticed that there's a list of my bikes below my avatar. It's mostly correct, although not up to date. I have several bikes that aren't mentioned, and I no longer have several of those that are listed. But as I say, it's pretty close. But here's the thing-I didn't add that information myself. That's not like me, so I'd remember if I had. Has some forum robot been loosed on archived posts to sniff out bikes that have been mentioned and tie them to individual usernames? I don't much care if it has, though that does strike me as a little creepy. Am I the only one this has happened to?

I got a BB30 tarmac frame but want to install ultegra 6700 crankset and BB on it. Which bb30 adapters have you used that works well? Some choices I found online (New to BB30, some of these may not even work, please let me know): FSA BB30 Adapter Wheel Manuf. BB30 Shim Praxis conversion BB Thanks for the help.

I have a pair of leather Sidi shoes that I've been wearing for a few years. They have stretched to the point that they no longer stay in place well enough even when cinched up as tight as they will go. Are they done? Or can the leather be shrunk back for another few years of life? Other than now being too large, there's no reason that I couldn't get years more service from them, so I'm wondering if anyone else has successfully shrunk their shoes back to original size. Thicker socks are not a viable option in the Chicago summer.

I have been using 12g cartridges & they work fine - specifically the bottom canister holder screws into the top trigger section completely - recently I tried 16g innovations cartridges , both threaded & non-threaded & couldn't screw the bottom section of the pump completely onto the top . the problem is that the 16g is slightly longer than the 12g - since both cartridges are much thinner than the canister holder , I don't understand why the 16g wasn't simply made the same length but fatter than the 12g to accommodate the added volume. I can continue to use 12g cartridges or simply buy threaded 16gramers & leave the bottom of the pump off. But my question is , has anyone else experienced this ?

I'm building up a salsa casseroll frame that takes long reach brakes. The frame is set up for recessed brakes. I have a pair of NOS superbe long reach brakes that have the proper reach but they are nutted brakes. I'm looking for ideas on how to make these brakes work on the frameset. The easiest solution is to use a washer to cover up the recessed hole. Has anyone tried this? Are there any pitfalls in doing this? This is not the most elegant solution. Are there alternatives?

Anyone have any information, experience, or know anything about the Oval Concepts 930 carbon handlebars? All I can find is that they were offered on the high end Fuji bikes form 2010-2012. They look nice, and I was offered a new bar at a good price, but can't find any info on these. Any of you guys have any info???

When I try to do a search in all forums I am getting the message "Oops! An error occurred: unknown local index 'ForumDelta' in search request." If it makes a difference, I get the message when I search using the tool on the header of the page. Thanks, Chuck

What would be the best tires to get to fit with this wheelset? http://www.ebay.com/itm/400491768974...8 4.m1423.l2649 And just a noob question but will only 700c by 30mm tires work on these wheels? I have a 700c 1W wheelset right now and 700c by 23mm tires and I want them to be the same size. Thanks!

Hi All New to the forms and this is my first post so go easy please! After 3 years riding my Fuji Team Pro, I’ve decided it’s finally time for a change…..bit of background; I initially purchased the Fuji straight off the peg having at the time very little knowledge of road bikes. As such I’ve ended up suffering with aches and pains when doing 30+ miles due to the frame being a bit on the small side…I don’t intend to make the same mistake this time and am planning to test ride as well as have a fitting session this time round. I’ve pretty much narrowed my search down to the Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert and the Cervelo R3 2013, however I’ve just found a LBS who still has the Specialized Roubaix SL3 pro in stock @ £2,700 v’s the £3k for both the aforementioned.. I’m really keen to understan

I bought this frame four years ago and built it up with a Campy 8-speed Racing Triple Group I had laying around. It's a gorgeous bike with a beautiful gold metal-flake paint job. The ride is butter smooth and it rides like a dream. The problem is that it has never really fit me. I'd like to trade it for a more comfortable steel frame. Any input on what you would sell this Lyon for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike Lyon drive train.jpg Lyon front view.jpg Lyon sport.jpg Lyon top tube paint.jpg Attached Images Lyon drive train.jpg (103.8 KB) Lyon front view.jpg (100.6 KB) Lyon sport.jpg (99.9 KB) Lyon top tube paint.jpg (95.3 KB)

A few weeks ago I bought said tape and when I ride 30+ miles my hole hand tingles. I'm not sure if it's a median or ulnar nerve issue or just the tape. The reason I say that is because the two previous tape's I had where polar opposites, Velo Gel Tape which was thick and padded the other was Performance Carbon tape which thin and like riding on bare bar. Neither of those made my hands tingle the way the Lizard Skin does no matter what distance I would ride. Has any one who uses Lizard skin Tape had any issues with something like this?

I'm considering this bike; Virtue 7 http://www.virtuebike.com/bicycles/2013- virtue-seven but i'm not a fan of the bars. The bike is relatively inexpensive at 350$. I will be using it for school and work and some weekend travel. I wanted to ask if it'd be possible to convert this bike to drop bars. And considering the shifters, i was wondering if i could use downtube shifters rather than brifters for a more classic look. Would this be possible? Am i Looking at a big investment? Everything will be done by myself as i have some good bike knowledge. Im just not sure about the conversion. Will i need to replace the brakes as well?

How important is chain speed designation with its compatibility to chain sizes. I have an 8 speed drivetrain and may want/need to get a new crankset, move to a compact possibly, and everything i look at lists 9 or 10 speed it seems. I want to know if I need to get an 8 speed, and what the difference is exactly (in regards to chainrings) I want to keep it at 8 speed because I can still friction shift with my DT shifters (they are only indexed to 7) and because 8 speed to cheap to maintain and replace.

Last Friday I went to the LBS and test drove/fell in love with the Specialized Allez Compact. However, before I buy it, I was wondering if I should wait until Specialized releases their 2014 line, to see if I like the looks better, if there are any upgrades, or can get a better deal on the 2013. Only one problem: I have no clue when they release NOR when the new models actually arrive at the shops.* Thanks for the help! *I have found info from last years, they released in early July, but I don't know if that's the norm nor when they arrive

Hey everyone, is there a bike made for commuting that has geometry more like a road bike, but that you are still able to use a rack on the back. I currently use my mountain bike, but would like something that is a little faster.