I suspect it's the "complete" part that's causing the grief. Trigger groups are usually sold by the individual part. Pricey way to do it too. Especially as everybody seems to think it should match the manufacturer of the receiver.

Right on. My gunsmith is evaluating an unusual problem and recommends a replacement trigger group. Outpost armory has them listed around $200 and Fulton armory, as would be expected, has the complete groups. Trigger groups for AK and AR types run twice as much.

__________________
Ouch, the dreaded "M-1 thumb", you just know it will happen eventually, so why not do it now and get it over with??

What is the problem you are having? Instead of replacing the entire trigger group maybe you can swap out a piece or two.

__________________
We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks to the Internet, we know this is not true.

What is the problem you are having? Instead of replacing the entire trigger group maybe you can swap out a piece or two.

Exactly! Just because your gunsmith cannot figure it out, he wants to just swap-out the trigger group. FYI, years ago my Garand began to double when I was shooting it in meets. Having a machining background and a compulsive "fixer", I determined that the likely cause was the "hooks" on the hammer had become worn. Bought a new hammer, installed it...problem fixed, did not need an entire new trigger group.

Most M1 problems are not very difficult to fix, and seldom require replacing more than a few parts. However, buying parts individually are rather expensive. You could get better value to buy the whole assembly, if say you will need 3 parts out of that.

The problem is this. Pressing the trigger does not fire the rifle, no trigger movement whatsoever. Then release trigger pressure and the round fires. Possibly trigger sear problem but not sure. Accordingly, replacing the trigger group might be preferable. Was happening about 20% of the time making it harder to diagnose.

__________________
Ouch, the dreaded "M-1 thumb", you just know it will happen eventually, so why not do it now and get it over with??

__________________
We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks to the Internet, we know this is not true.

Yes you understand it correctly. Doesn't make much sense at all. Sort of like a release trigger on a shotgun. No objection to paying for a complete trigger group if that will cure the situation.

I only fired two clips when it was doing that but not on every shot, some 6 or 7 times out of the 16.

So absolutely no trigger movement when it is pulled. Not even trigger take-up? If so quite likely someone has monkeyed with the trigger, possibly trying to make a single-stage trigger out of it. But I still can imagine how it is possible.

Perhaps the hammer and the trigger will need to be replaced. But since the smith has no clue, replacing the whole assembly may be the way.

No a trigger job had not been done on it. I have three M-1s and this one had been sitting around for a couple months waiting for its turn to be used. Then the next time out the malfunction started on the first shot. The Smith does gun work for the P.D. which takes priority and also manufacturers guns for various departments so I haven't been pressing him much on this. He apparently was having some difficulty finding a proper trigger group so I reminded him we had previously used Fulton Armory on another M-1 with good results, and at the same time time asked around for possible other sources (see above posts).

No take up on the trigger whatsoever when it would go into the trigger release mode. I'm all for replacing the entire trigger group.

__________________
Ouch, the dreaded "M-1 thumb", you just know it will happen eventually, so why not do it now and get it over with??

Ok, I think I know what you have. The problem never happens for the first round of a fresh clip, correct? One round fired. You let go the trigger. The trigger is stuck in the pulled position, never resets. You pull the trigger again. There is no trigger movement as it is already in the far most backward position. When you let go the trigger again, the hammer drops. Sounds right?

The secondary sear engagement is not negative enough to reset the trigger consistently. The primary sear engagement may be marginal too. A smith who is familiar to M1 fire control should be able to correct that. A new trigger group will correct that too, if it doesn't have problems of its own.

It may be due to wear. But it is more likely someone was trying his hands on do a trigger job perhaps.

This email link is to reach site administrators for assistance, if you cannot access TFL via other means. If you are a TFL member and can access TFL, please do not use this link; instead, use the forums (like Questions, Suggestions, and Tech Support) or PM an appropriate mod or admin.

If you are experiencing difficulties posting in the Buy/Sell/Trade subforums of TFL, please read the "sticky" announcement threads at the top of the applicable subforum. If you still feel you are qualified to post in those subforums, please contact "Shane Tuttle" (the mod for that portion of TFL) via Private Message for assistance.

This email contact address is not an "Ask the Firearms Expert" service. Such emails will be ignored. If you have a firearm related question, please register and post it on the forums.