Map

Summary

Description

The 'Fun Parlour' is not a big cliff, being only 8 to 10 meters high. But the lines, cracks and walls are a lot of fun. The cliff is situated just out of 'Glenreagh', which is approximately half way (half an hour's drive) from Grafton and Coffs Harbour on the Orara Way.

Being a NW facing cliff summers are generally too hot for climbing at this crag, however winters days can be surprisingly warm and pleasant. After a hot day of climbing it is worth stopping at Middle Creek (500m towards Glenreagh) where a short hike leads to beautiful swimming holes.

Approach

About the middle of 'Glenreagh' Sherwood Creek Rd heads off across a bridge spanning the Orara river. Set your odometer to zero here. Follow this across the railway line, then hard left to Middle Creek (bridge at 5km). The parking for 'Fun Parlour' is a small, cleared, roadside area 500m past the bridge over Middle Creek on the Southern (right) side of the road (5.5km from turn off at Glenreagh). The crag is not visible from the road. The trail leaves the road about 50m up the hill from the parking lot. Follow a vague trail diagonally up and generally left for about 150m. When you reach the crag you are near the left hand side with the most obvious feature being the prominent, bolted roof Room With A View. Climbs are listed from left to right as you face the cliff.

Where to stay

The nearest bush camping is at a nearby climbing area called Wonderland. For all other levels of accomodation, it is about a 45 minute drive back into Coffs Harbour or Woolgoolga which offers everything from caravan parks and backpackers hostels to five star resorts.

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History

The Fun Parlour was founded by a Nymboida River Whitewater Rafting Guide, Larry Dixon some time in the early eighties. In the summer of 1984, during a moment of weakness, his brother Neil 'Dicko' Dixon agreed to see what climbing was all about and tied onto the end of the rope. They put up three routes that year, the best being Cold Tap (14), nearly melted in the process and then rushed back to the Golden Dog for some life-saving beers.

The following year, Dicko found that rock climbing interfered too much with his social life. As a result, another River Guide, Ian Allen, was talked into visiting the cliff. The result was two more new routes by Dixon, the best being Whip It (15).

The first wall route, Chicken Heroes (18) by Al Stephens from Armidale went up in 1986 along with 7 other crack routes.

The true potential of the Fun Parlour began to dawn on Dixon and Stephens in 1987 when they bolted the classic Funnel Web (16) by Dixon and Long Tall Texan (21) by Stephens. A total of eight new routes went up that year. Other visiting climbers that year were Richard Thomas (the long, tall Texan) and Mark Spence from Coffs Harbour.

The year of the Bosch, 1988, resulted in five beautiful routes, the best being the Ramones inspired Planet Earth (19) by Dixon and Quasimodo (18) by Stephens. Other visiting climbers involved int the first ascents were Graham Stewart from Armidale, Wade (Image Man) Fairly and Richard Falls from Tamworth.

1989 saw many visitors come and go and 16 superb routes being put up. Gavin (Coke) Dean, a climbing and abseiling instructor from Coffs got very serious about new routes and, with a variety of seconders, put up 12 new ones (nothing compared to what he did at Wonderland later), the best being The Raw (21) and the infamous, almost impossible for some, Rum and Coke (22). Other visitors during the winter were Niel Crabb and Mark Colyvan from Armidale, Karl Shultz from downtown Glenreagh and Davey and Tim Wood from Ulong.

In 1990 Larry Dixon became more involved in developing his Whitewater Rafting Business and temporarily retired from climbing. Dean, with Stephens and Wayne Anderson, at various times, were involved in 14 of the 15 new routes put up during the year. The best was Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries (23) by Dean (one of the hardest at Fun Parlour). Other climbers involved in the first ascents were Tim (Tadpole) Balla, Patrick Thompson, Toldy Thompson and Tim Loughlin.

In 1991, Gavin Dean discovered Wonderland which became the focus of attention for development. Since then, only a few routes have been added to the crag although it always seems to attract a few climbers every year, especially those who are looking for moderate routes.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

The first bolted route in the Coffs area! Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish. Bolts can be supplemented with gear if required. Belay from a tree about 10m back from the cliff.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.