I'm attaching a new log from today. I've updated ignition and VE tables to use something similar to my M$ config. ( https://github.com/AiToR51/freeems-vani ... /OMG.GZ.MS )I've also to update the engine decoder offset. I've to add 10º and now runs smoother. With the same air coming into the engine now idles at around 1200-1400 rpm instead of the 600 of the another day. is similar as my MS do if I disconnect the idle valve and let the same pipe I've to disconect to use the FreeEMS

I also reduced my RPM cut to 5000 rpm to avoid problems with decoder.

I'm upoladed a new video to youtube of this run... But is not complete, as my mobile phone decided to stop recording video at around the half of the run.

File comment: log of the firs run on road with my FreeEMSlog1.tgz [709.42 KiB]
Downloaded 130 times

Author:

sim [ Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:57 pm ]

Post subject:

Re: AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th)

AiToR51 wrote:

I've also to update the engine decoder offset. I've to add 10º and now runs smoother. this is testing injection cut at 5.000 rpm

You probably don't want to use the decoder offset to tune how theengine runs. Unlike an old distributor set-up, where you rotatethe distributor to adjust base timing, spark advance iscontrolled by the table in the ECUs memory.

The decoder offset is a fixed number for any given engine setup.It is simply the angle between the synchronization signal and afixed crank angle (TDC, IIRC).

A good way to determine the decoder offset is as follows: 1) Load a flat timing table into the EMS, that is a table with only one timing value in all of the cells. Use a value the engine will be happy to idle on, ie, 10 degrees or thereabouts. If your engine has a timing cover with timing marks, choose a value that appears on the scale.

2) With the fuel shut off (pull fuel pump/injector fuse/relay), and a timing light connected, crank the engine. Try to determine where the pulley is when the strobe goes off. Some additional marks on the pulley can help here. A dab of white paint on the timing mark helps quite a bit too.

3) Adjust the offset in the direction that will make the strobe flash closer to the point where the marks line up.

4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get a consistent strobe with the timing marks lined up.

5) Make a note of the offset, and enter it into your permanent config. Change the timing table back to one appropriate to run your engine. Reinstall the fuel fuse or relay.

It is a good idea to start the engine and let it rev, while watching the timing light to ensure the spark is happening at the right time.

Once the decoder offset is set, it should not be changed unlesssomething has caused the trigger wheel timing to change.

If you are unlucky enough to have a newer engine without timingmarks, you may have to determine TDC with an indicator down aplug hole (or the factory procedure, if different), and mark thecrank pulley yourself. In this case, it might be easiest to use aflat zero degree timing table.

To get the engine to idle nice, adjust the timing table in thelow RPM cells, rather than fiddle with the offset.

EDIT:

Quote:

< AiToR51> ok, thanks for your post. The reason of my change isbecause I checked in an engine I've in house without head andmeasure the angle between when there is the missing teeth to theposition where is TDC, and it's 90º

AiToR51 pointed out in IRC that he made the change to offsetbased on measuring another motor, and not for the purpose oftuning his idle. This is a reasonable and correct thing to do.

Author:

Fred [ Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:03 pm ]

Post subject:

Re: AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th)

Didn't read sim's post, too busy, but:

[19:19] == AiToR51 [4d1b48e7@gateway/web/freenode/ip.77.27.72.231] has quit [Quit: Page closed][19:32] <@simis> I don't think AiToR51 should be using the decoder offset to set his base timing...[20:03] <LonelyFred> No, he shouldn't, shame you just missed him. Please tell him to SET it ONCE according to his timing light and pulley(s) and then TUNE the timing to his tastes.[20:04] <LonelyFred> IE quote me to him when he's next here.

There is exactly ONE correct offset value!!! Find it, stick with it.

Fred.

Author:

AiToR51 [ Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:17 pm ]

Post subject:

Re: AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th)

I copy here what we talked in IRC to not loose it

[19:15] <AiToR51> ok, thanks for your post. The reason of my change is because I checked in an engine I've in house without head and measure the angle between when there is the missing teeth to the position where is TDC, and it's 90º[19:16] <AiToR51> the problem of using a timing light is that my engine doesn't have timing marks near the crank pulley[19:16] <@simis> That is a fair and reasonable thing to do.[19:16] <@simis> Yes...[19:16] <@simis> But there is nail polish, and dial indicators.[19:16] <masterkorp> lol @ nail polish[19:17] <masterkorp> but it might work[19:17] <@simis> Tried it, works great.[19:17] <AiToR51> is a good idea[19:17] <AiToR51> I will buy a timing light first [19:17] <@simis> The decoder offset is fairly important, so it's worth double checking.[19:18] <@simis> On the other hand, if you are using a factory missing tooth wheel, that will always be in the same position, from car to car, then you are probably fine doing what you have done.[19:19] <@simis> You just made it sound like you were using the offset to tune your idle, and that is really not the right thing to do.[19:19] <AiToR51> yes, in my MS the values I was using I didn't prove to be sure that are 100% correct. But there were another users that checked it. And now with 90º runs nearly the same way with the MS[19:20] <@simis> No problem. I can be a little pedantic.[19:20] <AiToR51> is better at this way[19:20] <AiToR51> is an important thing[19:20] <AiToR51> but yes, I want to check it with a timing light

Author:

Fred [ Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:42 am ]

Post subject:

Re: AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th)

Other than just adding paint to ID TDC, you can also cut one or more small shallow slots in the pulley edge with a hacksaw and fill them with white/silver paint. To use these you need a backing plate with degree markings, zero and 10 are enough, 0, 10, 20 is better. Find a flat part of the engine and scribe these in with something hard/sharp. Or, if no flat bits exist, mount something flat somewhere convenient and mark it accordingly. You must mark the TDC on the pulley relative to the TDC on the plate while the engine is at TDC. IE, TDC markings can be at any angle.

Author:

AiToR51 [ Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:29 am ]

Post subject:

Re: AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th)

ok thanks. I will try it when having the timing light

on the other hand, I've been driving my car with FreeEMS for more than 15km in total. Is good, I like how it goes, is smooth and it was not hard to tune the VE table to get EGO values near the lambda ones I've on the Lamba table.Today, after do another test, I will put here my current ecu definition, tables and log.

but still don't have a lot of power. I'm waiting to arrive a timing light I've ordered on ebay. Then I will check ignition timing right.the log when this video happens is this the first one.

Is normal to see the rpm signal "unclean"? like with spikes? (ie: record n 36860)

when arrived house did some tuning on VE tables and gone again two times (following 2 logs).

Next day I recalibrated my LC1 WB with fresh air.. I think It was a bit out (reading richer than it was??) as you can see in the last log. Probably one of the reaons to get that higher EGTs you can see in the video