The object is to remove all the crap (cat baffel and second wall)shorten the pipe , fit a stainless perforated inner tube wrapped in appropriate wool and make it servicable useing rivets.

I hope to lose half the weight , plus help the big twin breath easier in mid and top revs, the sound will be good the cost should be meagreand i'll have some fun doing the work and bringing the results to fellow 990 owners.

The bike, you've maybe seen one.

The weight and height of 1 original pipe.
Tools for first stage- dissection.

I am myself in the process of converting to a 2-into-1 setup using an HT-Racing Y pipe with FMF can. I initially had this idea of doing a de-catting & 2-into-1 conversion using the stock cans.

The stock exhaust & H-pipe setup weighs 10Kgs and the HT-R 2-into-1 setup weighs 3Kgs !!! So it was much better than my earlier idea and bcos i am keeping the rear luggage carrier frame on the bike, i don't need the additional crash protection of the stock cans (very strongly built - but i don't know how much it will be compromised by removing the innards).

cheers

__________________'07 KTM Adv990S - Gone, to a good home , '12 KTM 990Adv, '10 KTM 530Exc-RallyNo myriad hues of laser lights, no bottles that are oozing with nectars from heaven, No beautiful body soft and warm to the touch but, i have a very small desire, Give me a dark....long....winding road, three gears to go and my Hellas on fire !!

It's friday tomoz, so maybe have something then ,but only if i'm lucky.

Sorry mate. Let me get this right, you're scrapping the inner sleave and baffels seen in pic 5 and keeping the centre tube resting on your left hand in pic 5 and then your going to put a another perforated tube inside the centre pipe with wodding on it?

Sorry mate. Let me get this right, you're scrapping the inner sleave and baffels seen in pic 5 and keeping the centre tube resting on your left hand in pic 5 and then your going to put a another perforated tube inside the centre pipe with wodding on it?

I'll spell it out ...........

I've kept , the end cap and thats the skin only of the end cap. No tubes perforated steel or glass wool.

Right... ive also kept the flange end , SKIN ONLY.

And the tube lying down in pic # 8 which is the external skin only that is visible to the eye.

NOW, the skin of the original can (minus the end cap and the bolt on flange) has been shortened, by about 50 mm.

This piece (the 50 mm piece )is going to be used as a insert, which is being welded to both the flange and end cap.

Ive had to cut a piece out of the radius of this 50 mm piece in order for it to fit inside the original can skin.

On top of this above foundation i am adding.............a 1 and half inch in dia perforated ss tube.

This tube will connect the bolt on flange to the end cap creating a straight thru pipe...yes!!

The perf pipe will be wrapped in exhaust glass wool wadding or apropriate material.