When I first saw suki’s adorable Hobbes, I showed it to my husband, who promptly exclaimed that
he wanted one! But, there was a problem...I can’t crochet. So, I converted suki’s
pattern to make a knitted Hobbes, instead. Below is the supply list,
abbreviations, and pattern for all the Hobbes parts.

Please note: If you
have questions about knitting the pattern, feel free to contact me on Ravelry @
seesarahknit. If you have questions about assembling Hobbes, or any
non-knitting Hobbes related questions, please contact suki on Ravelry @
sukigirl74.

Disclaimer: Please do
not sell this pattern or sell items produced by it. See suki’s note on her
pattern post.

Disclaimer 2: This has
not been test knitted or reviewed by anyone but me. If something doesn’t make
sense, give me a holler! If you want to see my knitted Hobbes, go here: http://ravel.me/seesarahknit/mfhp.

Many thanks to suki
for her kind permission to write up this pattern, and even more thanks for
sharing it on her blog.

Enjoy!

Sarah C.

Hobbes
knitting pattern

Supplies needed:

Size 6 dpns or
circular needles long enough to do magic loop.

Gauge is not super important...you just want to make sure your stuffing
doesn’t show through.

1 skein orange yarn (I
used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Terracotta)

1 skein black yarn (I
used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Black)

1 skein white yarn (I
used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in White)

(A note
on yarn choice: Any Worsted/Aran weight will do...I used acrylics because they’re durable and
wash easily. I used less than 170 yds of each color).

Yarn needle

Stitch marker to mark
beginning of rounds

1 piece black felt

Black
thread/embroidery floss

Sewing needle

Polyfill stuffing

Abbreviations:

K= knit

P: purl

St/sts: Stitch(es)

Kfb: Knit through the
front and the back of the st

Ssk: slip slip knit

K2tog: Knit 2 sts
together

M1l: Make 1 st Left

M1r: make 1 st Right

CO: Cast on

BO: Bind off

St st: stockinette
stitch

You should also know
how to knit jogless stripes in the round.

Head

In orange, using sz 6
dpns, CO in the round,

being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist
sts.

Row 1: CO 8 sts, join
in the round

Row 2: k all

Row 3: kfb 1x on each
needle. 12 sts

Row 4:k all

Row 5: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 18 sts

Row 6: k all

Row 7: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.

Row 8: k all

Row 9: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 30 sts.

Row 10: K all

Row 11: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 36 sts.

Row 12: k all

Row 13: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 42 sts.

Row 14: K all

Row 15: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd .48 sts.

Rows 16-17: k all.

Now start the stripes
on back of head.

Row 18, 19, 20, 21:
k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)

Rows 22-24:work even in orange

Rows 25, 26, 27, 28:
k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)

Rows 29-31: work even
in orange

Rows 32, 33, 34, 35:
k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)

There will be some
small holes where you changed colors

(and this is the only part that will have
them.)

Stitch them together before you stuff the head.

The rest of the head
is worked in orange only.

Rows 36, 37, 38, 39,
40, 41, 42, 43: work even in orange.

Row 44: [k1, ssk, k to
3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 42 sts.

Row 45-46: k all

Row 47: [k1, ssk, k to
3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 36 sts.

Row 48-50: k all

Row 51: [k1, ssk, k to
3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 30 sts

Row 52-54: k all

Row 55: [k1, ssk, k to
3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 24 sts.

Work in stst for
approx. 28 rows. End on p row. (Note: it is a good idea to check how long the
muzzle is getting about 18-20 rows in. Once the muzzle is about ½-1” shorter
than desired length, start decreasing as indicated below)

BO, and leave a very
long tail to sew muzzle to head. Stuff muzzle lightly as you sew it to head. I
would recommend sewing on the nose and mouth before you sew on the muzzle, or
at least making sure you haven’t sewn on the entire muzzle/stuffed it fully
before adding on the nose and mouth.

Legs (make 2)

In white, using sz 6
dpns, CO in the round,

being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist
sts.

CO 8 sts, join in
round.

Row 1: K all

Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to
end of needle one time on each of 4 needles.12 sts.

Row 3: K all

Row 4: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rndK 1 row. 18 sts.

Row 5: k all

Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.

Rows 7-16: Kall even

Rows 17-20: Switch to
black. K all even

Row 21-24: Switch to
orange. K all even

Repeat rows 17-24 until
you have 4 stripes of each color.

BO, leaving enough orange yarn to sew to
body.

Arms (make 2)

In white, using sz 6
dpns, CO in the round,

being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist
sts.

CO 8 sts, join in
round.

Row 1: K all

Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to
end of needle one time on each of 4 needles. 12 sts.

Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to
1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.

Rows 7-16: K all even

Rows 17-20: Switch to
black. K all even

Row 21-24: Switch to
orange. K all even

Rows 25-26: Switch to
black. K all even.BO, leaving a long enough tail to sew arms to body.

Tummy patch:

Knit flat.

Using size 6 needles, CO
6 sts.

Row 1: k all

Row 2: p all

Row 3: K1 m1L, k to 1
st before end, m1r, k1. 8 sts.

Row 4: P all

Row 5: K1 m1L, k to 1
st before end, m1r, k1. 10 sts.

Row 6: P all

Row 7: K1 m1L, k to 1
st before end, m1r, k1. 12 sts.

Row 8: P all

Row 9: K1 m1L, k to 1
st before end, m1r, k1. 14 sts.

Row 10: P all

Row 11: K1 m1L, k to 1
st before end, m1r, k1. 16 sts.

Row 12: P all

Measure work at this
point¾you’ll want to stop knitting evenly when you
get that distancefrom your desired height.

Work evenly in st.st
until work measures about 1 ½” (or however high your increase section was) from
desired height.

Start decreasing:

Row 1: K1, ssk, k to
three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.

Row 2: P all

Row 3: K1, ssk, k to
three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.

Row 4: P all

Row 5: K1, ssk, k to
three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.

Row 6: P 1 row

Row 7: K1, ssk, k to
three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.

Row 8: P all

Row 9: K1, ssk, k to
three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.

Row 10: P all

BO and leave long
enough tail to sew patch onto body. Do not
stuff!

After you’re done
knitting, sew on the muzzle and tummy patch. Attach ears and limbs and tail.
Using the felt, cut out two eyes and two stripes for the top of Hobbes’ head.
Pin everything in place before you sew it on to ensure you’re happy with the
placement.

3 comments:

Hi RV,Are you on Ravelry?If so you should go to http://www.ravelry.com/people/seesarahknit and ask Sarah that question and any other ones. She converted my original crochet pattern of Hobbes into knitting so I can't answer any knit questions. If you're not I'll relay the question to her.cheers suki

Hi, RV! M1R means to increase by one right-leaning stitch. Here's some great videos on how to do these stitches (scroll down a bit and you'll see the links for M1R and M1L, which you'll also need to do this.): http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases

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Please note that my patterns, projects and text are copyrighted and may not be used in part or whole by anyone without my written permission.Also, anything made from my patterns are for personal use only.I have no problem with anyone linking to my work as long as I am also credited as creator of said work.Thanks for understanding.