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Hopefully the chassis arrives this week. I have to wait a little bit longer because I´m located in Germany. Everything is ready for conversion.

Something i forgot to do as I was getting everything installed was rotating the servo horn 90 degrees before attaching the servo to the chassis. Doing it after is not a huge issue, just not much room for the tools.

Thanx... it´s nice to see a small community is growing here. I´m a little bit dissapointed, that not many builds are posted here...

Guys are having too much fun. The other thing is actually you would be surprised how many buy stuff like this chassis and never really go to different forums. Some just read the info and then buy one but never post anything.

yes greatly is an understatement my chassis sits 1 inch in the rear and 3/4 of an inch in the front in my testing i have rolled it once running 2's geared 13/54 for now just testing. i am so happy i waited cant wait to build the blue one lol

Yeah it does kinda look like the old slash flipping and rolling but it could have somethig to do with you servo steering rate, ride height and suspension. I want to see some STRC 4x4 offroad track footage to see how it handles in the dirt and jumps.

Does anyone have a STRC 4x4 in the Orlando, FL area?? PM me if you do..

Just a short question... I want to be ready when the chassis arrives. I´ve got the blue Dynamite 4 hole servo horn. Its a little bit longer than the stock servo horn. Do I have to cut the last hole to make it fit? The third hole has the same position like the hole from the stock one...

yes greatly is an understatement my chassis sits 1 inch in the rear and 3/4 of an inch in the front in my testing i have rolled it once running 2's geared 13/54 for now just testing. i am so happy i waited cant wait to build the blue one lol

I think the flipping has to do something with the ride height. I just can do this statement based on driving the stock chassis. For me it was always important to have the complete chassis parallel to the ground. I also look after the driveshafts to be parallel to the ground (best power transmission) which defines my ride height. Last but not least... the springs should be hard as possible when driving on concrete. But thats just my oppinion...

Just a short question... I want to be ready when the chassis arrives. I´ve got the blue Dynamite 4 hole servo horn. Its a little bit longer than the stock servo horn. Do I have to cut the last hole to make it fit? The third hole has the same position like the hole from the stock one...

If you look at the pictures I posted, one shows the servo mounted. Although it's not the stock servo, it's the stock servo arm. More then likely your servo arm will hit the bottom plate.

Beholder_74 from my build experience there will be no way to mount a receiver box in that area.

DriveItLikeYaStoleIt sorry no video of mine on the track this past weekend. I can tell you it handles a lot better then the stock chassis did offroad. A section of track that I always had unpredictable handling even if I enter the section the same every time was the whoops section and this chassis handled the same every time I hit that section. The guys that drive losi's at our track are rethinking their switch from traxxas to losi after they saw this chassis run.
I would also like to mention that I had no setup time on this chassis before I raced so it was a carry over setup from my stock plastic chassis. I am using most of slayden's setup as my base setup.

Beholder_74 from my build experience there will be no way to mount a receiver box in that area.

DriveItLikeYaStoleIt sorry no video of mine on the track this past weekend. I can tell you it handles a lot better then the stock chassis did offroad. A section of track that I always had unpredictable handling even if I enter the section the same every time was the whoops section and this chassis handled the same every time I hit that section. The guys that drive losi's at our track are rethinking their switch from traxxas to losi after they saw this chassis run.
I would also like to mention that I had no setup time on this chassis before I raced so it was a carry over setup from my stock plastic chassis. I am using most of slayden's setup as my base setup.

That setup should have you started in the right area. I started with that setup and then changed to 5k rear, 60k center, and 10k front worked good for me. I need to change my oils some on my Proline shocks for the next time out but overall it was good starting setup. I like a good amount of off power steering and that worked for me.

Beholder_74 from my build experience there will be no way to mount a receiver box in that area.

Maybe I have to think about a custom chassis guard from outerwears to avoid the use of a receiver box. But one thing is for sure...I will mount the receiver to the lower deck... Anyway... the idea I had in mind was to adhere a stripe of velcro to the upper deck to mount a custom made outerwears guard that I can wrap around the edges of each side of the chassis. I like the idea to flap the sides of the outerwears guard to get seperate access to each side of the chassis without the need to remove the whole guard.

Today I promise to get working on my Slash lcg setup. I been slacking and just got too busy at the shop the last two days but today I don't have to work and the shop won't be really busy that I would have to help out so its all about my STRC LCG Slash tonight. I will get some pics as well that I have slacked on to. Hope to get all my wiring done as well tonight so it looks nice and tidy.

Its made of aluminum, the motor mount is also aluminum and looks a lot better. The cost of this chassis is a few dollars more then a full conversion to the traxxas lcg chassis, also the aftermarket has not produced an aluminum motor mount for the new chassis yet.

heres mine all built up. took me 6 days, lol...in reality, it took me about 4hrs (keep in mind teardown only took about 20-30min) i was going to use a stainless screw kit and got about 1/4 way through and changed my mind when i started rounding off screw heads (the stainless kit i got is pretty soft) then i had some troubles finding out how to mount the front sway bar...also im using a different esc im not allowed to mention apparently its a 120a next to a 4800kv 4pole. i got a little creative with mounting but requred me to remove the top brace after having it installed...and i had a few other install/removal hiccups like mounting my 7cell nimh.
honestly, the biggest time consumer was finding the correct length screws, and loc-titing them.

ok, heres the pics...dont mind the cat/dog hair, ive only got to play with it inside the house so far.

heres a closeup of how i mounted my batteries, it seems to be holding well enough id leave it permanently but i planned on lipos anyways. note the rear "L" bracket is only held in with one screw and its been flipped/rotated to give just a hair more length in the battery tray.

and heres a center brace that i dont understand the purpose for other than to do this...simply wrap velcro through it and the nerf bar and viola!

and while we're on topic of chassis protectors, ive been dreading taking this thing to the track scratching it all up...well i found something awesome today. it comes with 2 sheets, its pretty thick as you can see in the close-ups...its about .25mm thick and it goes on just like a cell phone protector. i bought it cause it was clear, didnt know how thick it was until i went to put it on. im very happy with it, plus i have another once this ones all bashed up. its so nice you can barely tell its there in the pics. also realized another bonus to the protector, keeps all the screw heads nice and clean!