Blowfish Tails at Uncle Boons

Not deadly; just misunderstood

Seeing the word “blowfish” on a menu gives even the adventurous foodie among us pause and might even conjure images of that Simpsons episode where Homer thinks he’s consumed poisonous fugu and goes about, in his own bumbling way, trying to complete a 24-hour bucket list.

Blowfish tails on the grill at Uncle Boons

Of course, there is no need to fear Homer’s experience at this Thai rotisserie and grill. These tails ($14) are from the “safe” part of blowfish, as your server will cheekily remind you. Slathered in a slightly sweet black soy marinade, then tossed on a charcoal grill for a smoky finish, a spritz of lime and the accompanying garlic and chile sauce infuse the tail with explosive flavor. Use your fingers to eat them: the soft, tender meat slides right off the bone.

Husband-and-wife team Ann Redding and Matt Danzer opened the spot in April. Set in the area where fashiony NoLita bleeds into Chinatown, the subterranean space gives off a back-alley feel at entry. In the small front room, a glass wall by the bar reveals a rotisserie with spits spinning chickens and cabbages. In the two larger dining rooms, patrons slurp slushy, frozen Chang beer out of straws — a nod to the favorite refresher in the hot and humid open marketplaces of Thailand. The resulting jocularity feels just as authentic, and life-affirming, as those non-toxic tails.