Restaurant review: Galluccio's
meatballs: A force to be reckoned with

When I first noticed the sign for Galluccio's on Federal Highway and
saw that Starbucks was just a few doors down, I assumed that another
chain with deep pockets was invading the county. I was wrong.

Galluccio's is owned and run by a man who worked for the sheriff's
department for many years. Reminiscent of a typical neighborhood New
York restaurant, the decor is simple, the staff is friendly and
welcoming (as if you had eaten there last night) and the aromas coming
from the kitchen indicate you have found a great place to eat. The menu
is direct with many home-style offerings of traditional New York
Italian favorites like subs, eggplant parmigiana and baked ziti.

We began with the antipasto salad ($6.75) that arrived brimming with
provolone, salami, olives, peppers and plenty of greens with the
perfect amount of dressing. Made from the same dough as the pizzas that
are served on high platters, the soft, warm bread combined with the
garlic is intoxicating. Two glasses of Sterling merlot ($7.50 each)
yielded a generous pour that took the chill out of the unseasonably
cold evening as we devoured bread and the salad. We saw people enjoying
mussels at almost every table and made a mental note to have those on
our next visit.

Our entrees were linguini with clams ($12.95) with white sauce, (red
is available) and an evening special of gnocchi alla vodka ($14.95).
Served piping hot in large, but not monster-truck size, portions
(gratefully), plenty of clams in the shell atop perfectly al dente
cooked pasta satisfied the desire for protein and carbs. The gnocchi
were tender and the sauce was divine. The standout, however, was the
side order of meatballs (two for $3.95) that were perhaps the lightest,
most flavorful and tender meatballs we have had anywhere on the
planet.

A shared glass of Montini ($6.75) topped off dinner along with an
Italian cheesecake ($4.25) that is not only difficult to make properly,
but almost impossible to master. It was pure bliss.

Many people have romantic notions about opening up an eatery, but
few have the (pick any): talent, understanding, determination or
wherewithal to survive. My gut instinct tells me that Galluccio's is
going to do just fine. The food, value, quality and service make them a
force to contend with. Dinner for two, including gratuity, came to
$79.