....Water Meth Injection.....good or bad idea?

So so far one of the best kits or at least I think is the best kit in my opinion is the Snow Performance http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=8 ....does anyone currently have one? How often do you have to add meth to the tank? is it worth it? ....Also Alot of people keep telling me if I choose to do this I should get my car Dynotuned......do we even benefit from this? Ive heard that they normally cant do the things apr and other companies can? im tired and lost someone help

heet will only get you the cooling advantages of the meth system. Running actual water/methanol also bumps the octane more.

Heet is 99% methanol and 1% Proprietary Additive. That's the reason why, some choose to run it as a substitute for pure methanol. The result, at least Octane wise, should be the same- altough I wouldn't personally run it or recommend it because of the unknown additive.

Water injection is great way to boost your engine's performance safely. There are many companies nowadays selling kits but anyone who has been using water injection long enough will tell you that the 3 big names in the game are #1 Aquamist, #2 Labonte and #3 Snow.
I choose to run a Labonte Kit because of the incredible support that Dan@ Labonte provides, right here in the US. Richard L @ Aquamist is also a good help but they are based in Europe. I'd rather support the US business but I have to admit that Aquamist product is the nicest of the 3. Snow is also popular but does not provide the kind of support the other 2 main players do.

Water injection works two ways. One it removes heat by vaporization allowing to run higher boost levels without injesting lava. The second attribute to water injection is the octane boost that effectively raise the knock/detonation threshold. So basically water injection will allow you to push the agressiveness of the car's tune without blowing it up since water/meth does not in itself increase the power.

There are different philosophy, when it comes to running water injection. Some (like me and the rally crowd) run straight water, the masses run a mix of methanol or alcohol with distilled water, while another minority swears by running 100% meth. IMO, the reason for the different mix is tuning.

Most tuners/DIYers or should I say tooners go the easy way(tuning wise) and do a 50/50 mix. Their reasoning is that a mix provides (in theory) the best of both worlds. The reality is that it's cheaper than straight meth or alky and easier to tune than straight water(raise the boost, add some timing and keep the AFR on the rich side).

Water has the best cooling capacity, it removes more heat than both alcohol and methanol.
Most don't know but water does not have and octane rating since it's not a fuel/combustible(its resitance to detonation or auto ignition is infinite). If the evaporation process is happening in the combustion chamber, water has the capacity to raise the detonation threshold to seriously high levels. The key is to get the water to vaporize in-cylinder(direct port injection or post TB injection).
The key to such a set up is really small nozzles to fully vaporize the water, a strong ignition(in-cylinder vaporization makes ignition blow out and misfires a lot more likely) and leaning out the AFR past the conventional comfort zone.

Straight meth is the juice of choice for a small group(mostly big turbo guys). My take on it is that it's an easy way to substitute for a lack of big enough injectors. Since the meth is at such high level, it becomes and alternate fuel and impact the AFRs greatly. A BT car that was maxed out by it's fuel supply, rather than its boost level can easily take advantage of this approach.

My advice to having a safe, reliable water injection setup:

-Get a good kit with failsafe(s)

-If you're going to run meth, make sure the pump is rated for it and at what percentage.

-Please do yourself a favor and stay away from winshield washer fluid, heet or anything that has additives or dye that will eventually clog your nozzles and as a result potentially blow your motor. Stop being cheap and buy straight methanol or denatured alcohol(I personally like acohol better because it's less corosive) and mix it by weight, not by volume.

-Do your research on what size nozzle is good for your turbo/boost and mix of fluid(100% meth calls for different nozzle sizes than 50/50 mix or 100% water)

- Nozzle placement is key to a good setup. Pre TB injection is good at lowering IAT, while post TB nozzle placement does a better job at raising octane levels and preventing detonation(I run a combination of both pre and post TB nozzles of different sizes).

- Make sure you do a pro install. Pump vs solenoid vs nozzle placement is important(solenoid too far away from nozzles will cause dripping). Make sure the whole system is leak free, especially with meth.

Water injection, when done right, can be a good way to make extra power. I was able to safely run 30 psi of boost and 6* of extra timing on the stock K04 before I added E85 to the mix(I'm not saying you should but it's possible). My IAT and EGT were so low that I deleted one of the SMIC to reduce pressure loss. My setup consist of a Labonte MAF controlled kit(the maf kits are much better at controlling the spray at rapid on/off throttle situations that are seen, when racing). I run a staggered nozzle set up with (2)M1 nozzle pre TB and a M.5 nozzzle post TB). I choose to run the windshield tank to keep things simple and compact. With a trunk mounted tank, there is a lot more lines to leak and the pump has to work harder to prime things up at first spray. I should also mention that I run twin solenoids, one controls the post TB nozzle alone while the second one run the split line going to the other two pre TB nozzles.

This what IAT looked liked on a hot summer day pull, at 30 psi heat soaked:

Again, heet or washer fluid leave residue from their additives that could clog nozzles overtime. Mixing should also be done by weight, not volume. A bottle of heet with the same bottle filled with water is not a 50/50 mix.