Medan, the colonial city with a storied past

We embark on our Sumatra Adventure Trip via Medan, the capital of North Sumatra Province. A teeming metropolis, Indonesia’s third largest city. We were pleasantly surprised to see a relatively compact city, with a big urban feel, greeted by an antiquated airport that is literally smack dab in the city center. Our hotel, Aryaduta, was a mere 10 minute drive from the airport. A stone throw away from the old colonial downtown, a treasure trove of art deco and classical architecture, witnesses to Medan’s bygone era as an important trading city, built on the riches of rubber, palm oil and tobacco plantations.

Art Deco curves that have withstood the test of time.

Remnants of the past in Medan’s old colonial heart.

Medan is the gateway to the Northern part of Sumatra, and her major tourist attractions such as Lake Toba, Gunung Leuser National Park (one of only two natural habitats of the Orang Utan), the Highlands and Palm Oil Plantations, as well as Aceh Province(Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam), further afield. Aceh’s claim to fame was the unfortunate site of 2004 Boxing Day Earthquake and Tsunami, which was the worst Tsunami disaster in the 21st century.

Anytime a discussion ensures over Indonesia, it’s always relevant to mention her staggering stats and figs, for many around the world still fail to realize Indonesia’s size. Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago, with over 15,000 islands (the exact count really depends on who’s counting, but a few hit and misses are irrelevant). With a population of about 238 million, Indonesia is the world’s fourth most populous country, and is situated on the “ring of fire”, the proud owner of the world’s greatest number of active volcanoes.

The ornate interior of the Tjong A Fie Mansion and Museum.

Tjong A Fie Mansion, built in 1899, an excellent reference on Medan’s rich history.

Indonesia has had her share of image problem and misconception. In recent memory it drew global attention for all the wrong reasons; natural disasters, bombings, terrorist attacks, political unrest, and economic turmoil. Her brightest spark has always been Bali, but one little island in her collection of many, renowned for her natural beauty, world-class surf, unique culture and gracious and artistic people. Her other islands are probably still deeply embedded in people’s minds – most notably in the West – as exotic remote isles, home to a plethora of strange fauna and flora, head hunting tribes, and impenetrable jungles, where the wild roam free, and the birds of paradise decorate the skies. Sumatra and Java are probably better known as coffee variety, but they’re also two of the better known islands. The others, such as Borneo (Kalimantan in Indonesian); Celebes (Sulawesi in Indonesian); and Moluccas, are known as resource rich islands that gain Wall Street mention for all the oil, gas, timber and coal that oozes out of her soil. The latter, Moluccas, is known in history books as the original Spice Islands, a collection of small islands that have single-handedly changed the course of world history more than any since the Ancient Greek and Roman times.

Tjong A Fie’s personal barber. Commissioned all the way from India.

An old padlock spotted in Medan’s old city.

Some intriguing trivia that makes one ponder upon hearing it includes: The Dutch swapping Manhattan (yes, THAT Manhattan, the long swath that is now the defacto capital of the world) for the tiny island of Run in Banda Sea. This island measures a measly 3 km long and 1 km wide, and in the 17th century was so valued for her nutmeg and mace, a treasured commodity during the Discovery Age that was pioneered by the Portuguese.

We feel it’s important to provide a rather thorough backstory on Indonesia’s history, as this large country deserves to be mentioned in such light. Especially today, amid her economic growth, and growing importance as an emerging nation that is poised to take its place among the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, and China) darlings of Wall Street. Today, Indonesia is a very different place, holding a bagful of hope from a land blessed with such beauty and richness. Tourism is one such hope, if managed properly could propel Indonesia into the world’s formidable travel destination, where sustainability and eco-tourism could potentially be the mainstay, and not an afterthought.

Which leads us back to the story, day one of our Sumatra Adventure. Bukit Lawang, 3 hours north of Medan, became our first choice of experiencing Sumatra, her wild side, to be exact. Home to the furry orange man of the forest – which is a direct translation of both Bahasa Indonesia and Malay,Orang Utan(Pongo Pygmaeus). Indonesia is one of only two countries on the planet (the other one is Malaysia) that has the Orang Utan. There are two species – Sumatran Orang Utan (Pongo Abelii) and Borneo Orang Utan (Pongo Pygmaeus).

Proud Mama Jackie and her offspring, gazing in contentment after finishing the “Nasi Goreng” (fried rice) she snatched from our group during lunch break. Coming in close proximity with Orang Utans in the wilds of a tropical rainforest is an unforgettable experience. [Photo: Max Hasan]

From our research we found that there were two main options of viewing Orang Utans. At the Bohorok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centrein Bukit Lawang, or in the wild. The Centre was established by Swiss Zoologists in 1973 as a place to rehabilitate orphaned orang utans and release them back to the wild, but since 1986 it has been declared closed to receiving new orang utans. We opted for the second – more exciting option – to see them in the wild, accessible only through a choice of 3- or 6-hour trek into the jungle with a professional guide.

Google rescue in the nick of time

Instant buddies! Trekking into the thick jungle with total strangers means you become close friends in the first few hours of your trip. Our comical guide Thomas is on the right. [Photo: Dian Hasan]

My generation relied on information from books and libraries (if we were lucky to get our hands on them), while my son’s generation lives and breathes Google. Don’t get me wrong, I may be an old fart, but I Google too. The morning of our flight to Medan, we hadn’t found any reliable source for Bukit Lawang trek guides yet. But thanks to the wifi, iPad and Google, we searched for a guide and Thomas’ Jungle Tourspopped up on the first page of our google search. Clean, modern website, visually rich, with clear and updated information and plenty pictures of Orang Utans. Thomas knows Branding 101, no doubt! The email couldn’t be more appropriate – jungleman_thomas@yahoo.com. We were sold. We sent Thomas a brief email and SMS text message. It turned out to be the best decision, helping make this leg of our Sumatra Trip the most unforgettable.

We team up with Dana, Tomer, and Laura, three adventure travelers from Montreal, and into the jungle we go. In the able hands of our jungle guide, Thomas. Photo: Dian Hasan]

Bohorok River that flows through Bukit Lawang. The bridge in the background was donated by the Central Government following the 2003 big flood. [Photo: Dian Hasan]

Kesawan area, Medan’s old colonial heart.

Kesawan area, Medan’s old colonial heart.

The minaret at Medan’s Grand Mosque

Medan’s Grand Mosque

Art Deco in Kesawan area, Medan’s old colonial heart.

Art Deco splendor. Kesawan Area, Medan.

Medan’s unique motorbike-type pedicab

Scenes of Old Medan.

Hindu Temple, Medan

Tjong A Fie Mansion & Museum, Kesawan, Medan

Sultan Maimoon’s Palace, Medan

Entrance to Sultan Maimoon’s Palace, Medan.

Tjong A Fie Mansion & Museum, Kesawan, Medan

Gate at Tjong A Fie Mansion & Museum, Kesawan, Medan

Aryaduta Hotel, arguably Medan’s best 5-star hotel.

Remnants of the past. Tip Top Restaurant (est. 1934), in operation since the Dutch Colonial era.

As the world’s largest archipelago, Indonesia is home to over 17,508 islands (the actual count varies between low and high tides!), that stretches an eighth of world’s mid-section, the diversity of her landscape is simply staggering.

Lush tropical rainforest teeming with wildlife, many of which are among the world’s most critically endangered species, volcanic peaks that are never quite dormant, and a choice of tropical isles surrounded by sandy beaches and waters of all imaginable hues. Sailing is therefore a natural attraction, and most activities take those with a zest for adventure eastward towards Lesser Sunda Islands, to the Land of the Komodo Dragons! Komodo Island forms part of Indonesia’s protected Komodo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and only known habitat of the Komodo giant monitor lizards.

Here’s a brief look at look at the beauty of this far corner of the world from aboard the indomitable traditional double-masted Phinisi Schooner, which to this day is still handcrafted by the Bugis people of South Sulawesi (Celebes) . Another day in Paradise, no doubt!

Indonesia forms part of the Ring of Fire – a chain-linked range of volcanic mountains that encircles the Pacific Rim. And Indonesia is home to the largest number of volcanoes in the world. At any given time, there’s at least one volcano that is active. No surprises there.

Not only are volcanoes an integral part of the landscape, giving Indonesia its fertile soil, but they are deeply entrenched into the fabric of the society, touching everything from belief, customs, traditions, architecture and folkore. While Indonesians revere volcanoes for their might, foreigners will find them as a nature-lover’s paradise.

Here’s a look at some of her most famous “Fire Mountains” (as Indonesians refer to them in Indonesian “Gunung Api”) as reported by trails.com.

Bali has firmly placed itself not only as a formidable world class travel destination that garners accolades from respectable travel & lifestyle authorities each year, but also for its unique Bali Design has been adapted by the world of Architecture & Design for its truly distinctive style. Making its mark across fine hotels & resorts across the world, from Turks & Caicos in the Caribbean to South Beach Miami, Milan and The Maldives.