When I had 900 miles on my new CTS Coupe 3.6, I removed my PCV line and in tapping the intake fitting on my hand, I dispensed more than a drop of oil. That was reason enough for me to decide that this motor could benefit from an air / oil separator, or “catch can” as they are commonly called. After pulling my throttle body off, and carefully dredging a rag around up inside the intake in many different directions, I did not manage to find any puddles of oil, but there is an oily residue on the passages as you can sort of see in the picture below.

This post covers installing a separator on the LFX engine. The 3.6 PCV line is the same size used on the CTS V (3/8”), so I decided to go with the Moroso #85603 kit because it was in stock and shipped the same day. The separator is anodized black, but you can get natural finish if you go with #85602.

For your install, you want to remove the engine cover, and the passenger side trim cover. Next, remove the factory PCV line, which has a quarter turn fitting on the intake manifold, and a ridiculous plastic latch on the valve cover. This piece would like to break, and I don’t suppose engine heat makes the plastic anymore cooperative. I’ve shown a close-up of the fitting below, you can see the plastic latch that locks it onto the valve cover. If it breaks, or if you break it while removing the line, don’t worry about it because you are not going to reuse it. Once you have the valve cover fitting off, you can gently bring the line forward, turning the intake fitting of the PCV line ¼ turn counterclockwise in the intake, then lift it up and remove it.

The CTS V separator kit was designed to mount to the filler neck of the 6.2 engine. The stainless steel bracket that is included, handily mounts to the passenger side strut tower brace. You’ll need to drill two 1/4" holes here, don't get excited about the prospect of drilling this cast bracket, you may note there’s already a hole drilled in the driver side unused. Below I’ve shown some measurements of how far down and how far to the side I mounted my bracket for your reference. For clarity I did not start the measurements on zero. To mount my bracket I used stainless ¼” x 1” socket head screws.

Below I’ve shown where I cut off my PCV line, and the offset piece and fitting that attaches to the valve cover is not reused. We’ll attach our hose directly to the fitting on the valve cover, and use one of the small hose clamps to secure it. Use the other hose clamp in the kit to secure the longer hose on the cutoff PCV line.

Spend little time to route the hoses cleanly, and then reassemble everything and you’re done. I’ve driven about 800 miles since my install, and I’ve got less than a teaspoon in my separator. But the real proof is when I pulled the line from the intake, I no longer had any oil dripping out of the PCV line. That is after all, the point isn’t it?

This is a great spot to install the separator, it is rock solid, and extremely easy to unscrew and check or empty as needed. You barely even see it from the front of the engine.

Great pics and tutorial! You do know though that the oil can you have lets app 30% plus of the oil to pass right through though due to the internal design.

Try this to see for yourself. For app $10 get a clear glass inline fuel filter and install it between the outlet and the IM and in 100 miles or less it will be full of the oil passing through that style can.

Still much better than no can.

:thumbsup:

06-13-13, 01:23 PM

X E Ryder

Re: Installing an Air / Oil Separator on the LFX Engine

Quote:

Originally Posted by SC2150

Great pics and tutorial! You do know though that the oil can you have lets app 30% plus of the oil to pass right through though due to the internal design.

Try this to see for yourself. For app $10 get a clear glass inline fuel filter and install it between the outlet and the IM and in 100 miles or less it will be full of the oil passing through that style can.

Still much better than no can.

:thumbsup:

We put the cheap clear filter after your can and it dirtied up just like any other, and neither can "filled" it with oil in approximately 100 miles.

I don't care for the plastic fittings on your can which get loose and fail after a year of high underhood temperatures, and you cannot open up, service or clean the substrate in your can. Finally, we both know you have to say the can you are pushing is "30% plus" better; you could never endorse another can over the one you are selling! That won't fill your wallet.

The Moroso always works like it is brand new because it is so easy to service and all the metal is unaffected by high underhood temps. I don't have any idea what is going on inside your can but I can tell you it becomes restrictive over time in service.

06-13-13, 04:41 PM

SC2150

Re: Installing an Air / Oil Separator on the LFX Engine

Quote:

Originally Posted by X E Ryder

We put the cheap clear filter after your can and it dirtied up just like any other, and neither can "filled" it with oil in approximately 100 miles.

I don't care for the plastic fittings on your can which get loose and fail after a year of high underhood temperatures, and you cannot open up, service or clean the substrate in your can. Finally, we both know you have to say the can you are pushing is "30% plus" better; you could never endorse another can over the one you are selling! That won't fill your wallet.

The Moroso always works like it is brand new because it is so easy to service and all the metal is unaffected by high underhood temps. I don't have any idea what is going on inside your can but I can tell you it becomes restrictive over time in service.

A complete lie as usual.....read this thread. I endorse the AMW, the ELite engineering, the Saiku Micchi, etc. All that have tested to work well.

Look at the pictures and read the descriptions and test results......The truth seems to come hard for some.....and you are a perfect example. You can see the internal workings of the RX can as well but don't change, keep that can and let the oil in.

This is the usual response on those that have gone to the RX can, he is a member here:

Hey Tracy, Just wanted to thank you, and everyone at RevXtreme. I bought a catch can from you, for my 2005 CTS. Well since installing it i'm not consuming any oil anymore. I've had a close eye on the oil level since i have installed it and it hasn't used a drop. I don't know how or what that catch can has done to prevent the oil consumption. (I've read your tech tips article and understand the concept of how a catch can work.) I guess i am just baffeled that it something so simple like that could work.

Anyway just wanted to thank you. I was at my last wits end with this car and was about to put it back on the market, after the dealer replaced two motors under warrenty.

I'll be purchasing another catch can from you in the future. I have a 2000 Camaro SS that is getting a turbo as we speak, as a fun project street car.

But thanks again. It was definetly worth the wait.

Gabe Moulden

06-14-13, 11:45 AM

X E Ryder

Terry! Still Proving You Are An Amateur.

Your response was predictable, and unprofessional. That was the main reason I went looking for another product. When owners (on several different forums) post a product they have bought, you oftentimes jump up and down with a childish response. The first being "mines better", and the follow up to any criticism (constructive or otherwise) you insult your potential customer base. You just called me a liar, not cool; certainly not someone I would consider doing business with. The link You provided above chronicles another unprofessional exchange between you and the automotive community.

It is a fact that No catch can, will stop 100% of the vapors, your can does not disassemble, it does have plastic top fittings, and the folks at Moroso are more professional.

You have quoted the letter which indicates that after installing your can: "I've had a close eye on the oil level since i have installed it and it hasn't used a drop." While another customer stated: "I did an oil change today and drained my catch can at the same time. And WOW it had like 100ml of foamy disgusting oil."

So you want the reader to think they can catch All the oil vapors in your can, yet the oil level never moves on the dipstick? If so, the only thing filling your can is BS. Uh-Oh, look who painted themselves into a corner... Again.

If you had any professional courtesy at all, your reply to my post would've been something like "So you are saying if we had an all metal servicable design you would buy it?" That would've done the trick and made a sale as well as engaging conversation. Not a pissing contest. Your product is six or a half dozen in my opinion, but I'd pay thrice as much for a can, half as effective, just to avoid supporting someone who repeatedly patronizes people on forums who disagree with you.

So, you did not look at the cutaways of the cans and the explanations (including the RX)? You can be as ignorant as you like, but the reason for installing a can is to stop all or nearly all the oil ingestion.....and you ignore the simple test to see. The Moroso is app 1/3th the internal volumne it needs to be for the flow through to slow enough for the droplets to not be sucked into the side you use as an outlet (there is no designated outlet or inlet) so you have less than 1/4" separating the two sides....and there is media against each side so the outlet side is no different than putting a wet washcloth up to your mouth and sucking...what happens? You suck water out. Same thing happens with your can:

The RX can has 14" between the inlet and outlet and is app 1 qt capacity so the speed of the flow through can slow enough for the droplets to not be pulled along with the flow (take a straw, spill some water in a saucer, and suck...all is pulled up. Do the same now with a 1/2 hose and no water is pulled up...same principal for those that don't understand the physic's of flow dynamics. Or a simple dentist suction does the same).

The RX can also never mixes the separated/cleaned crankcase vapors with the incoming dirty ones as your can does (simple, look at the can you have apart...or the pictures I show here to follow the logic). Yours has a central chamber that the vapors travel into and out of.

Now you're offering me all the ignorance I'd like? Nice. Yes a Moroso is smaller, but that is not a picture of the can I have or it's internals; Moroso cans do not have integrated brackets. and with the substrate inside, and the two 90o turns in and out, and a 180o gas path inside (you removed the plate and the can is pictured upside down) I have had little difference in the accumulation rate of "catched" oil than one of your customers - this is arguably hard for anyone to prove. We did pull the intake side hoses and both have a slight sheen to them. I might have bought yours if you were a professional.

I did want to say that I have found Tracy to be nothing but professional. He took the time to answer all my questions personally & explained a lot. He doesn't try to oversell or push you into buying anything. Originally I asked him about a dual valve catchcan & an ice-o-lator for my '12 CTS. He told me the cheaper single valve was what I needed & the ice-o-lator was unnecessary due to my plastic manifold cover. He could've just as easily sold me the more expensive stuff & kept his mouth shut but he didn't. I appreciate guys like Tracy on this forum helping out. & no I'm not a paid spokesperson, just a satisfied customer.
Keep up the great work Tracy!

SC2150,First, I am totally sold on the catch can and am contemplating buying one. On your Camaro link you state: (We test all we can, and then cut them apart. Go back a few pages and see the results in detail with pictures.

The ones (and again, test for yourself)
that are tops are in this order:

Any of these are great cans we endorse (even though compete directly against us, they are great) Can you let us know the method you use to get the numbers you are quoting, RX - All, Saiku Michi - 90-95%, AMW & Elite 90-95%. What is the test method ? How are the percentages calculated ?

06-18-13, 05:09 PM

X E Ryder

Tale of Three Cans

Quote:

Originally Posted by monogram124

I'm glad you guys have seemed to work this out...

I did want to say that I have found Tracy to be nothing but professional. He took the time to answer all my questions personally & explained a lot. He doesn't try to oversell or push you into buying anything. Originally I asked him about a dual valve catchcan & an ice-o-lator for my '12 CTS. He told me the cheaper single valve was what I needed & the ice-o-lator was unnecessary due to my plastic manifold cover. He could've just as easily sold me the more expensive stuff & kept his mouth shut but he didn't. I appreciate guys like Tracy on this forum helping out. & no I'm not a paid spokesperson, just a satisfied customer.
Keep up the great work Tracy!

Not exactly - still no effort to post like a professional vendor. Bear in mind the intake spacer doesn't fit an LFX engine, so that point is moot. Based on the complaints posted on this forum for part delivery times, that can may have been all that was on hand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cawengr

SC2150,...
(paraphrased)
......Can you let us know the method you use to get the numbers you are quoting, RX - All, Saiku Michi - 90-95%, AMW & Elite 90-95%. What is the test method ? How are the percentages calculated ?

Without testing performed by an independent body, with no vested sales interest, the results are meaningless. "RX - All"? The best part is that the supposed results indicate a +/- 5% variance in all cases Except for the RX product, which somehow scores 100% with a 0% variance. The vendor tests everyone's product and claims their own product scores perfectly with zero variance? Hello!

12-07-13, 11:23 AM

X E Ryder

1 Attachment(s)

IPF Tuning - PowerTune - Up to 25HP from original engineers!

IPF Tuning - PowerTune - Up to 25HP from original engineers!

Just a heads up that LFX and most others actually, can get a fantastic tune for your motor which will unleash up to another 25HP and only requires running 91 octane fuel. The short version is, in order for your motor to run 87 octane safely, certain fuel and ignition parameters cannot be set as aggressively. If you only run 91 octane fuel, these curves can be set to take advantage of this. IPF Tuning was founded as an offshoot of a German company which wrote the original DI programs. Unlike a Trifecta tune (which software in capable hands can yield good results), the IPF Tuning PowerTuneg accesses the original fuel and ignition tables, instead of piggybacking on top them. It is completely reversible, and yields instant noticeable, Measurable results.

The price is around $499 for the complete setup, including a tune from the database best matching your car.

I see good results from both companies tunes as reported by the customers and the dyno graphs........they fight non-stop, and neither are perfect, but for what is available the gains are worth it IMHO (from either).

@XERyder I see you say in one of your post that someone could mod the Corsa CTS V Coupe exhaust to fight on a non-cts v coupe? Do you know what they do? It seems like you could use the whole setup and just cut the tips off?

01-19-14, 01:02 PM

X E Ryder

CTS-V Exhaust on CTS 3.6

Quote:

Originally Posted by viper3881

@XERyder I see you say in one of your post that someone could mod the Corsa CTS V Coupe exhaust to fight on a non-cts v coupe? Do you know what they do? It seems like you could use the whole setup and just cut the tips off?

Yes it will fit on a coupe, but bear in mind it would be more about the sound than performance, as it is not tuned and dyno tested for a 3.6. This also applies to the sedan, even with single exhaust which can be cut at the resonator (there is a picture series online of how it's done). Several people have put CTS-V stock exhausts on their CTS' but the sound and performance increase were subtle. With the larger head pipes on a stock engine you could lose some performance. In either case, you would require the services of a muffler shop - it's not a bolt-on mod.

I'm still very pleased with my Borla axle-back system - it's quiet going down the road, and sounds off when you stand on it.

01-24-14, 05:48 AM

EVH5150

Re: CTS-V Exhaust on CTS 3.6

I love the sound of your coupe with the Borla axle back, in fact I will say its by far the best sounding CTS 3.6 I've ever heard! A while ago I had a listen to your video and that is the exact sound I want from my coupe. My coupe has the manual trans so it should sound amazing as I row the gears, lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by X E Ryder

Yes it will fit on a coupe, but bear in mind it would be more about the sound than performance, as it is not tuned and dyno tested for a 3.6. This also applies to the sedan, even with single exhaust which can be cut at the resonator (there is a picture series online of how it's done). Several people have put CTS-V stock exhausts on their CTS' but the sound and performance increase were subtle. With the larger head pipes on a stock engine you could lose some performance. In either case, you would require the services of a muffler shop - it's not a bolt-on mod.

I'm still very pleased with my Borla axle-back system - it's quiet going down the road, and sounds off when you stand on it.