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Topic: 2013 B5 thread (Read 3221 times)

Rather than starting a new thread for everything, I thought I would put everything here. Most of it should apply to all the UCE bikes.

I have 127 miles on it so far, taking my time about breaking it in. So far I have noticed the following. The front brake squeals loudly. I'm wondering if the pads got contaminated somehow. The header pipe is badly discolored near the 02 sensor. I'm assuming it is a single wall pipe. If this is normal, it's not a problem. My old '66 Bonneville did the same thing. I just wondered if this could be a sign of overheating. The engine does not seem to get really hot, I can put my hand on the valve cover while riding and not get burned. The shifting is very vague and a bit notchy (compared to a modern Japanese bike) I've hit several false neutrals. It is not clunky however. Maybe I just need more practice with it.

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"I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker" "Some of the worst things imaginable have been done with the best of intentions'

The shifting you can overcome by leaving pressure on the shifter as you release the clutch. Once the clutch is released let the shifter move back to reset for the next shift. Even on my old 4-Speed sloppy left side shift this works and I haven't had a false neutral in months.

I'll let everyone else close in on the blueing, but sounds normal to me if it is isolated to right near the head.

If you mean that shifting must be a well thought action executed with painful accuresse you're right. That is one of the characteristics.The coloration is another one. If you retain the oem muffler with catalisator then there will be another one directly behind it. It will get very hot there with spirited riding after leaving break-in period.I use a chrome polisch to minimise the blueing but I'm not dedicated to remove them, I quite like the grading. Apparantly the best product is Restom ABC4020, produced by Mathys Quality Equipment.

You get used to the shifting. People say "It gets better as the bike breaks in," but to be honest I'm not sure it really has for me, I've just gotten more deliberate and precise. It's not like a Japanese bike, where you always know exactly what will happen when you move your foot up or down.

The RE is a bike where you have to learn its quirks and then live with them. It was my first motorcycle so I think of that as normal, and then when I ride a more precise bike (such as, even, my 101cc SYM Symba, which is practically a scooter) I'm amazed at how different the experience is. But not better, just different.

........I have 127 miles on it so far, .........The front brake squeals loudly.......The header pipe is badly discolored near the 02 sensor. ......The engine does not seem to get really hot,......The shifting is very vague and a bit notchy ......

teething pains.clean your brake with some spray.the pipe will continue to blue well past the first bend.the engine was designed to haul a family of nine around the Indian continent on sub-standard petrol. It runs cool in North America.shifting gets better with miles of burnishing the gears.

All true Gremlin. My pipe is getting a nice gold tinge (EFI, no baffles) and shifting is great. Not as good as my old RT1 Yamaha but few are. What i really like is the ratio spread coming from a 4spd grease box . The worse thing so far is having it down for 5 months whilst this stinking winter rolls on.Robert & the GREen B.

I think the RE UCE's shifting does get better as the engine/transmission break in but it never lets you forget it's a RE. That is, shifting has to be done with a firm full stroke of the shift lever. It's not at all like the short click, click, click of going thru the gears on a Japanese motorcycle.

Likewise, the kick starter needs a full, all the way thru, stout stroke to get the engine started. A little half assed partial stroke of the lever won't get the job done.

It's all part of owning a piece of history with close ties to its roots.

Regarding the Royal Enfield's shifting quirks, I decided to remove the stock shift lever and replace it with a heel/toe shift lever to improve the "in" and "out" of gear feel. It may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I personally prefer it on my C5 Military.

If you mean that shifting must be a well thought action executed with painful accuresse you're right. That is one of the characteristics.The coloration is another one. If you retain the oem muffler with catalisator then there will be another one directly behind it. It will get very hot there with spirited riding after leaving break-in period.I use a chrome polisch to minimise the blueing but I'm not dedicated to remove them, I quite like the grading. Apparantly the best product is Restom ABC4020, produced by Mathys Quality Equipment.

I have been pleasantly surprised to find much less blueing than I'm traditionally accustomed to, with my Non-standard, Non-cat, tulip end Cocktail Shaker silencer.

Regarding the Royal Enfield's shifting quirks, I decided to remove the stock shift lever and replace it with a heel/toe shift lever to improve the "in" and "out" of gear feel. It may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I personally prefer it on my C5 Military.

+1The heel shifter works great for me on my C5 ....loved it since I've put it on....