tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35065605254499410062018-03-05T18:44:56.847-08:00.world of WIZ....Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-17439291494955068892015-04-23T18:27:00.000-07:002015-04-23T18:27:21.835-07:00The Pros and Cons of a short tripThe meaning of a 'short trip' is obviously all relative. For some people it can be a weekend, a couple of weeks, or even a couple of months, but regardless of the length we as climbers have all felt that pressure of 'time' to achieve our goals for the trip. Whether it's to send our projects or just to see new crags. A feeling of panic, self doubt and question marks appear around whether the 'goal' will be possible or not and it's all about how you deal with it. Do you give in to the time pressure and forget about the end result or do you fight it and stay optimistic until the last possible chance?<br /><br />Recently I had this experience during my two week trip to Oliana, Spain in late February. Again, two weeks may seem like a long time but for me, having spent the last year and a half with the freedom of going anywhere at anytime, two weeks felt like nothing. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ne7j6KnoHtw/VTkFJfvqwUI/AAAAAAAAAvo/p3WMx1KYgcU/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ne7j6KnoHtw/VTkFJfvqwUI/AAAAAAAAAvo/p3WMx1KYgcU/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oliana, Spain. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>Oliana, a completely new crag to me full of 50 meter pumpy classics such as Mind Control and home to the worlds hardest route La Dura Dura. I had so much to go at and immediately I wanted more time. From experience it normally takes me about a week to get used to new areas but with only two weeks in total this was not an option. Do I spend my time climbing all the easier classics or do I hone in on a project with the chance of leaving with nothing? I pondered these questions for the first couple of days as I got stuck in to some of the 'warm ups' of the crag. But it didnt take long for the pure beauty of one line in particular to suck me in and I couldn't resist.<br /><br />This line was Mind Control and after waiting in line I finally had my chance to check it out and see what it was all about. I thought I should at least try the moves before making any kind of decision. It took some time to check it all out but come on, its 50 of the metres! That's a lot. After my first go on it, I thought it was going to be easy. There's no hard moves and a few good rest jugs between sections so what can possibly make it hard right?... The worry of whether I was going to get it done or not in time wasnt there as I was certain that it would only take a matter of tries. Its just jug hauling.... How hard can it be? :P This optimistic thinking soon wore off as I discovered the true meaning of pump. After about 40 metres of pure resistance climbing I quickly lost control of my elbows and the term 'chicken winging' was strongly in practice.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QtUlOrsrU0M/VTkF4H5_3xI/AAAAAAAAAvw/8T1qUZ200Iw/s1600/IMG_1292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QtUlOrsrU0M/VTkF4H5_3xI/AAAAAAAAAvw/8T1qUZ200Iw/s1600/IMG_1292.JPG" height="640" width="488" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiz Fineron falling from 49.5 of 50m on Mind Control. Photo: Rob Greenwood</td></tr></tbody></table>This resulted in multiple falls from high up on the route until I really couldnt get much closer. I mean falling at 49.5 of 50 metres with only one move left really sucks knowing that I have to climb all that way again if I wanted to get this thing done. I managed to sum up enough energy and psyche to have one more go that day and somehow raced the rising elbows to the top sticking that last move and clipping the chains of the mega classic Mind Control. Nice one Neil Mawson for the good send the day before, just the motivation I needed.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiqUuvwD4eM/VTkGz1jjl_I/AAAAAAAAAv8/lJKXG1QuSuE/s1600/IMG_1293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiqUuvwD4eM/VTkGz1jjl_I/AAAAAAAAAv8/lJKXG1QuSuE/s1600/IMG_1293.JPG" height="640" width="384" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad line!!! Wiz Fineron staring down the top section of Mind Control. Photo: Rob Greenwood</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;After a well needed rest day it was time to get back to the crag. Do I try something hard again or do I spend the last few days stress free and do more easy climbing? For me its the physical and mental battle of hard climbing that I enjoy the most. Although the easy days out are great fun, I dont think I would have felt like I would have made the most of my trip this way. I had to try something hard again so next up was Fish Eye, another Oliana classic. <br /><br />I had only two days left and with my first three attempts on Fish Eye the previous days not going so well I was struggling with psyche. The route itself didnt feel so bad (definitely easier than Mind Control) but the past few days had just been extremely still and warm and I was finding it really hard to relax on the rest jugs. When the skin is so soft and sweaty you have to hold on so much tighter which on short routes sometimes you can get away with, but on these pure endurance routes being able to rest and relax on holds is very important. On my second to last day the conditions weren't any better so I decided not to get on it at all and instead just have fun and climb some of the slightly easier routes.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HlM5ccVcWbo/VTkHrVkD6zI/AAAAAAAAAwE/RO2mu4iEquA/s1600/IMG_1315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HlM5ccVcWbo/VTkHrVkD6zI/AAAAAAAAAwE/RO2mu4iEquA/s1600/IMG_1315.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiz Fineron high up on Fish Eye. Photo: Alex Haslehurst</td></tr></tbody></table>Although it was great spending my second to last day with no pressure and just having fun, a large part of me still wanted to finish off what I had started with Fish Eye. Knowing that I only had one day left and having only been on the route a few times by this stage, I had already excepted the fact that I may not do it and having done more than expected on this trip already I really didn't mind weather I did it or not. <br />The last day was great, we rocked up at the crag with cooler temperatures and a strong breeze. The psyche came rushing back and I just couldn't resist one last go. I knew exactly what to do, I just had to put it all together. With no expectations I went for one last try. I felt great the entire way up, resting was easy and what I thought was going to be really hard at the top felt so good I even forgot to clip the last couple of draws. I clipped the chains and that was it, a great end to a great trip!<br /><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6ZCX92Yhuc/VTkIQOwNYoI/AAAAAAAAAwM/pbrzk7ls454/s1600/IMG_1317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6ZCX92Yhuc/VTkIQOwNYoI/AAAAAAAAAwM/pbrzk7ls454/s1600/IMG_1317.JPG" height="640" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last day send!!! Well psyched! Photo: Alex Haslehurst</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div>For me, this trip was about spending time with some great people, having a good time and learning to not let pressure and self doubt get into my head. With only two weeks, it was a new experience for me and I wasnt sure what was going to happen. I came away from this trip having sent two significant climbs (for me), experienced a new area, with amazing people, and had a lot of fun and laughs. So whether its two days, two weeks or even two months, its all in the head and anything is possible. You just have to approach it in the right way and that always includes a big smile. Why do it if your not having fun right...? <br /><br />Get out there and have fun!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CAiO7YKsnM/VTkJDhY-s_I/AAAAAAAAAwU/dWpfsPvBCDk/s1600/IMG_1297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CAiO7YKsnM/VTkJDhY-s_I/AAAAAAAAAwU/dWpfsPvBCDk/s1600/IMG_1297.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another great whipper shot! Photo: Ally Smith</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYLVIAVj3yg/VTkJ31W07aI/AAAAAAAAAwg/_tUzQrt2Kro/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYLVIAVj3yg/VTkJ31W07aI/AAAAAAAAAwg/_tUzQrt2Kro/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The team... well most of it!! </td></tr></tbody></table>A huge shout out to my main man Alex Hasleherst as well as 'Team Sheffield' for making it such a great holiday and we should definitely do it again!! You all know who you are so thank you very much.<br />:P<br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-8209374257667788562014-11-24T03:55:00.000-08:002014-11-24T03:55:11.105-08:00More pictures!!! Part two.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Moving on from the big stuff, my next stop was South Africa. Six weeks of hardcore bouldering at the world famous destination known as Rocklands. Psyched!!!!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2A482GqF6w/VHC8wzMF_XI/AAAAAAAAAno/Pyrfclf5vL0/s1600/IMG_0498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2A482GqF6w/VHC8wzMF_XI/AAAAAAAAAno/Pyrfclf5vL0/s1600/IMG_0498.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.... South Africa baby!!! Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RiAXwwA10FY/VHC-rBz9CCI/AAAAAAAAAn0/cjGLeuCKRCA/s1600/IMG_0425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RiAXwwA10FY/VHC-rBz9CCI/AAAAAAAAAn0/cjGLeuCKRCA/s1600/IMG_0425.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much rock! So much climbing! Can you spot the famous boulder? Photo: Wiz Fineron</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9xdIMyfP-g/VHDA3ykCqEI/AAAAAAAAAoA/S4Fkm-EDULw/s1600/IMG_9363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9xdIMyfP-g/VHDA3ykCqEI/AAAAAAAAAoA/S4Fkm-EDULw/s1600/IMG_9363.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campusing around at night on what was meant to be a rest day. Rest days are so hard to have when amongst so much quality rock. Photo: Bjørn Helge Rønning</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TkW1wxXGgmk/VHDD7rFBYLI/AAAAAAAAAoM/CuCo6lrzb2k/s1600/IMG_0996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TkW1wxXGgmk/VHDD7rFBYLI/AAAAAAAAAoM/CuCo6lrzb2k/s1600/IMG_0996.JPG" height="430" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favorite problems of all time. Shosholoza 8a/+ (ish) When I managed to climb this bloc I was so psyched, so I re-climbed it about five minutes later for the camera! Two perfect moves. Photo: Caroline Wagner </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQzbXdkB-BA/VHDIENMK81I/AAAAAAAAAoY/KSfgmTAopIU/s1600/shosholoza.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQzbXdkB-BA/VHDIENMK81I/AAAAAAAAAoY/KSfgmTAopIU/s1600/shosholoza.JPG" height="436" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the next move. Perfect. Another great photo by Caroline Wagner</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rgRStlm4czQ/VHDKAHF-98I/AAAAAAAAAog/bDaDTyBd4eg/s1600/IMG_3133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rgRStlm4czQ/VHDKAHF-98I/AAAAAAAAAog/bDaDTyBd4eg/s1600/IMG_3133.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steve Bradshaw attempting the 18m long highline above the camping. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-smKWMll_FuU/VHDKvQ8jUaI/AAAAAAAAAoo/y3JqJlEgWQo/s1600/Screen%2Bshot%2B2014-11-22%2Bat%2B5.15.53%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-smKWMll_FuU/VHDKvQ8jUaI/AAAAAAAAAoo/y3JqJlEgWQo/s1600/Screen%2Bshot%2B2014-11-22%2Bat%2B5.15.53%2BPM.png" height="374" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiz sending the highline. Managed to walk back and forth on this rig 3 times. I first tried a highline back in 2012 at Mt Arapiles, Australia and have wanted to try again ever since. Psyched to have sent it! Photo: Steve Bradshaw</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wgDQzfgIdDk/VHDQ826u7OI/AAAAAAAAAo4/6a1Nu-ehj8Y/s1600/IMG_1519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wgDQzfgIdDk/VHDQ826u7OI/AAAAAAAAAo4/6a1Nu-ehj8Y/s1600/IMG_1519.JPG" height="418" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working on the project of the trip. The Vice (8b) proved to be right at my limit for the trip spitting me off the last move to the jug too many times to count. Photo: Caroline Wagner </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-83PpfKAkRmE/VHDUGtHPYgI/AAAAAAAAApE/M1Fy-EzyVQE/s1600/IMG_3093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-83PpfKAkRmE/VHDUGtHPYgI/AAAAAAAAApE/M1Fy-EzyVQE/s1600/IMG_3093.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sneaky... Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NROQPejNwN4/VHDU0nFf-wI/AAAAAAAAApM/mL6hQ6rt2-Y/s1600/IMG_3120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NROQPejNwN4/VHDU0nFf-wI/AAAAAAAAApM/mL6hQ6rt2-Y/s1600/IMG_3120.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hold on Simon!!! Oh wait, too late.... Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sOhUV1T2XAY/VHDVnhpiukI/AAAAAAAAApU/h6cxNzSw1uA/s1600/IMG_3158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sOhUV1T2XAY/VHDVnhpiukI/AAAAAAAAApU/h6cxNzSw1uA/s1600/IMG_3158.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eat your greens! Power food. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EQz-q27ki4/VHDXqSk8q2I/AAAAAAAAApg/5hQtFBYAST0/s1600/IMG_1828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EQz-q27ki4/VHDXqSk8q2I/AAAAAAAAApg/5hQtFBYAST0/s1600/IMG_1828.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another big move to a small crimp. Catching the crux move on Green Mamba 8a+ Photo: Caroline Wagner</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Es64g5QCjG4/VHH8zYSWnRI/AAAAAAAAAp8/vGVFIzxkfNk/s1600/IMG_0551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Es64g5QCjG4/VHH8zYSWnRI/AAAAAAAAAp8/vGVFIzxkfNk/s1600/IMG_0551.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some very impressive rock art. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><br />After six weeks of thrashing our selves on one amazing problem after the next the power had gone and so had the skin.&nbsp; Having managed to climb more than twenty 8a or harder problems I was happy with how the trip went and with my body feeling completely beaten, when the time came to leave I felt satisfied and ready to move on. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DSf1vnar90/VHH-K_Wzg0I/AAAAAAAAAqE/krZ6z_GZoY8/s1600/IMG_0558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DSf1vnar90/VHH-K_Wzg0I/AAAAAAAAAqE/krZ6z_GZoY8/s1600/IMG_0558.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lesson learnt... Dynos are not good for the skin! This happened on the second to last day luckily. Only one solution really... Tape up and keep climbing. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>Check out the video I made with some of the problems I caught on film: <br />&nbsp;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnilDAw4bLw<br /><br />From South Africa, I continued my travels returning to North Wales for about a week of organizing (mostly climbing) and also had the chance to compete in the Deep Water Solo comp held in Exeter.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Hu9ts9Zz2I/VHIDYigZD_I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/9QuSBO-Qi04/s1600/IMG_0281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Hu9ts9Zz2I/VHIDYigZD_I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/9QuSBO-Qi04/s1600/IMG_0281.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyXw7_4u4tg/VHIFF7nt54I/AAAAAAAAAqY/_jyH2czD1wE/s1600/2014-08-30%2B14.47.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyXw7_4u4tg/VHIFF7nt54I/AAAAAAAAAqY/_jyH2czD1wE/s1600/2014-08-30%2B14.47.22.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep water soloing in Exeter... Who would have thought. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>I never seem to hang around in the UK for too long, so by this time it was time to get moving again. I heard the weather was pretty good in Ceuse so the tickets were booked and off I went! <br />Hard life really...<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yyor35XR5TE/VHIRERsIPQI/AAAAAAAAAq0/LV7Eg2HhKj8/s1600/IMG_0711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yyor35XR5TE/VHIRERsIPQI/AAAAAAAAAq0/LV7Eg2HhKj8/s1600/IMG_0711.JPG" height="122" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The perfect place. This was my second time in Ceuse and it has become one of (if not) my favorite places in the world to climb. Photo: Wiz Fineron </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2oVk8QhtihM/VHINNyc6xXI/AAAAAAAAAqo/sWzkP2qeZxI/s1600/P9070839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2oVk8QhtihM/VHINNyc6xXI/AAAAAAAAAqo/sWzkP2qeZxI/s1600/P9070839.JPG" height="640" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First day back in Ceuse on Dolce Vita 8a+. Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-6R4a04D48/VHITUbyWQ4I/AAAAAAAAArA/Gi95awLATI8/s1600/P9180906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-6R4a04D48/VHITUbyWQ4I/AAAAAAAAArA/Gi95awLATI8/s1600/P9180906.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Living like kings this year in Ceuse! Oh yes. Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gm4xgbhqGII/VHIVj0KLDzI/AAAAAAAAArM/-T3QAyuYLy0/s1600/IMGP0945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gm4xgbhqGII/VHIVj0KLDzI/AAAAAAAAArM/-T3QAyuYLy0/s1600/IMGP0945.JPG" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main project of the trip. Mr Hyde 8c+ on the Biography wall. Photo: Alice Thompson</td></tr></tbody></table>In the past I havnt been very good at projecting, especially in areas where there is so much climbing to be done, so that was the plan for this trip. Having already climbed a lot of the classics up to about 8b last year I told my self that this time I was going to try something hard. No excuses. <br />Being there in September and October was perfect as the season was coming to an end and the school holidays had finished. This meant for majority of the time we had the luxury of having the whole of Ceuse shared between about ten of us. Amazing.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BMDYQZG9FQ/VHIatxFnAmI/AAAAAAAAArg/v70VA4GNbvo/s1600/P9070856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BMDYQZG9FQ/VHIatxFnAmI/AAAAAAAAArg/v70VA4GNbvo/s1600/P9070856.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing climbing and amazing skies. Perfect. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9eAzafpxh0/VHIdYqBXfWI/AAAAAAAAAr0/P6c5KIF3au4/s1600/P9100888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9eAzafpxh0/VHIdYqBXfWI/AAAAAAAAAr0/P6c5KIF3au4/s1600/P9100888.JPG" height="356" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another classic shot from Ceuse! Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The project state of mind was going well so after sending Mr Hyde, the psyche was high and I moved on to the next one. Next up was La Part Du Diable 8c. Another great line on the Biography wall.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SfeU98TV0Qg/VHIgTEitt8I/AAAAAAAAAsA/yFWTf3GgmJk/s1600/PA080978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SfeU98TV0Qg/VHIgTEitt8I/AAAAAAAAAsA/yFWTf3GgmJk/s1600/PA080978.JPG" height="640" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Psyched to have climbed another great line on the Biography wall after a few days of work! Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0b17WiHoOo/VHIhvoZndhI/AAAAAAAAAsM/a7gr5vNWMLA/s1600/DSC_0920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0b17WiHoOo/VHIhvoZndhI/AAAAAAAAAsM/a7gr5vNWMLA/s1600/DSC_0920.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too much fun! Photo: Angus Kille</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDGJm7q-naI/VHJRAB95PYI/AAAAAAAAAso/xVwOJ_TVk4g/s1600/hangout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDGJm7q-naI/VHJRAB95PYI/AAAAAAAAAso/xVwOJ_TVk4g/s1600/hangout.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew. Good scenes in Ceuse!</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bsMUDSzHgPI/VHJSYNFxOKI/AAAAAAAAAsw/6Q8Enc2iuSY/s1600/P9160899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bsMUDSzHgPI/VHJSYNFxOKI/AAAAAAAAAsw/6Q8Enc2iuSY/s1600/P9160899.JPG" height="640" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favorite wall!! So many great climbs. Photo: Luke Clarke</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JnYJXP-NEMc/VHJVkTmRDDI/AAAAAAAAAs8/f0Ofo1ClxTc/s1600/PA020926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JnYJXP-NEMc/VHJVkTmRDDI/AAAAAAAAAs8/f0Ofo1ClxTc/s1600/PA020926.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of Ceuse! Beautiful. Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CWNCOF1Xpuc/VHJWjHnAvXI/AAAAAAAAAtE/oauZtM7ca1o/s1600/10710960_10203089920188558_4478688567387902855_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CWNCOF1Xpuc/VHJWjHnAvXI/AAAAAAAAAtE/oauZtM7ca1o/s1600/10710960_10203089920188558_4478688567387902855_n.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last project of the trip Chronique De La Haine Ordinaire 8c. The days were getting pretty short by this time resulting in the odd try at night. Hard bouldery sequences can be pretty tricky in the dark... </td></tr></tbody></table><br />&nbsp;After finally getting through the bouldery sequence at the start I held it together and climbed to the top. Clipping the chains I felt exhausted both physically and mentally. Its amazing how much mental strength it takes to project a climb over and over so with this one out of the way I was finished. My time in Ceuse this year had come to an end and it was time to move on again.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HO6n3BaZIrI/VHJZdvckBtI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/AaMMZXZtDdc/s1600/PA080952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HO6n3BaZIrI/VHJZdvckBtI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/AaMMZXZtDdc/s1600/PA080952.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">:P .... Photo: Melanie Jackson</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;Now for round two in Spain!!! So psyched.Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-30149674743513753032014-10-25T06:58:00.000-07:002014-10-25T06:58:27.352-07:00Big, bigger, and biggest! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The last few months have been pretty full on, bouncing from one continent to the next. Since my last blog post in May it's been a non-stop climbing schedule for me starting off with multi-pitch/alpine climbing in France and Switzerland to hardcore bouldering in South Africa, Deep Water Soloing in Exeter and finally Sport climbing in France.<br /><br />Its been one amazing adventure to the next so instead of me writing about it all, here are a bunch of pictures that will hopefully tell the story much better than I will. Enjoy!<br /><br />First stop, Samoens, France. (Multi-pitching)<br /><br />The plan was to try a route called Bin Fizz as a warm up route to the main objective of the trip. Unfortunately we only managed to get up the first three pitches of this route before having to bail off and run back down to the car before the storm hit. Not a short approach!<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0YnKyWf6u3o/VDlMjzx6FsI/AAAAAAAAAhQ/MCOIpgyuBzU/s1600/P1110097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0YnKyWf6u3o/VDlMjzx6FsI/AAAAAAAAAhQ/MCOIpgyuBzU/s1600/P1110097.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Face of the Fizz. Photo Calum Muskett.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vaMSZjHRGPU/VDlPXQ23RZI/AAAAAAAAAhc/yd2AVWaGjHk/s1600/IMG_2881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vaMSZjHRGPU/VDlPXQ23RZI/AAAAAAAAAhc/yd2AVWaGjHk/s1600/IMG_2881.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad view. Photo Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bxumfpMeijI/VDlQ2UPQmBI/AAAAAAAAAhk/veNacOB1-yc/s1600/IMG_2884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bxumfpMeijI/VDlQ2UPQmBI/AAAAAAAAAhk/veNacOB1-yc/s1600/IMG_2884.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The death gully as I called it. This is where Calum came in to his element. Choss. I was sh##ing myself, and we hadn't even started climbing yet. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rMTEJU3SfCk/VDlUeInix7I/AAAAAAAAAhw/s5qc0yMDzZQ/s1600/P1110169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rMTEJU3SfCk/VDlUeInix7I/AAAAAAAAAhw/s5qc0yMDzZQ/s1600/P1110169.JPG" height="358" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3rd pitch of the route. Amazing water warn slab. Photo Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--3-c7n0haqU/VDlVCeKcltI/AAAAAAAAAh4/LaZYcJK70f4/s1600/P1110179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--3-c7n0haqU/VDlVCeKcltI/AAAAAAAAAh4/LaZYcJK70f4/s1600/P1110179.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smearing to the max! Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Next up, Ratikon, Switzerland.<br /><br />This was the main event of the trip, to climb the famous Multi-pitch, Silbergier. An impressive looking route with it all. Hard climbing, big run-outs and amazing views.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UYHOhUxwdzM/VDlYaZnPrKI/AAAAAAAAAiE/BNCs2_Ygm-0/s1600/P1110323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UYHOhUxwdzM/VDlYaZnPrKI/AAAAAAAAAiE/BNCs2_Ygm-0/s1600/P1110323.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good old 'Monique'. Citroen C1 doing us proud on the crazy drive up to the Ratikon. Nobody told us about this? Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E1EgzCnec-0/VDlZ21vnitI/AAAAAAAAAiQ/VoNN0hGFZrk/s1600/P1110201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E1EgzCnec-0/VDlZ21vnitI/AAAAAAAAAiQ/VoNN0hGFZrk/s1600/P1110201.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad place to go rock climbing at all. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ymuGgg1ivuQ/VDlap1n8UsI/AAAAAAAAAiY/pzToNJdEa9Q/s1600/P1110306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ymuGgg1ivuQ/VDlap1n8UsI/AAAAAAAAAiY/pzToNJdEa9Q/s1600/P1110306.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Psyched!!! Ready to give the Crux (8b/+) pitch a good go. Managed to send this thing on my second attempt. It doesnt count until I climb from the ground though... :P Photo: Calum Muskett.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r9TWizjgIE8/VDlgngQhmVI/AAAAAAAAAio/DSiJdxo6bcM/s1600/IMG_2913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r9TWizjgIE8/VDlgngQhmVI/AAAAAAAAAio/DSiJdxo6bcM/s1600/IMG_2913.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh yes..... The weather. Not the best that's for sure. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMJKBS9XCpo/VDliKnpKLhI/AAAAAAAAAi0/QKGtNO02T2Y/s1600/P1110313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMJKBS9XCpo/VDliKnpKLhI/AAAAAAAAAi0/QKGtNO02T2Y/s1600/P1110313.JPG" height="640" width="427" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting caught in a storm at the top of Pitch 4 again. Yes... that is hail. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKhM8vbyMI0/VDljsqTPpwI/AAAAAAAAAjA/ML4tahfyFZQ/s1600/P1110222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YKhM8vbyMI0/VDljsqTPpwI/AAAAAAAAAjA/ML4tahfyFZQ/s1600/P1110222.JPG" height="640" width="452" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at the terrifying second pitch. A very thin and run out 7c+ traverse. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pY8JhyuYJhE/VDllCBuCQEI/AAAAAAAAAjI/rZ0WEvnnkaY/s1600/P1110239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pY8JhyuYJhE/VDllCBuCQEI/AAAAAAAAAjI/rZ0WEvnnkaY/s1600/P1110239.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the second pitch. Definitely more scary on second. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ApxdGTn0zyc/VDlnfvWE-8I/AAAAAAAAAjU/0HZ3Cd2oFXs/s1600/IMG_0349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ApxdGTn0zyc/VDlnfvWE-8I/AAAAAAAAAjU/0HZ3Cd2oFXs/s1600/IMG_0349.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calum in training. Cake, cake then more cake!!! Photo: Wiz Fineron<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atxd4rGoHFA/VEj9bU0yWvI/AAAAAAAAAjs/4mayjbZE0GM/s1600/IMG_2927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atxd4rGoHFA/VEj9bU0yWvI/AAAAAAAAAjs/4mayjbZE0GM/s1600/IMG_2927.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calum trying to stay warm at the top of the third pitch. Amazing water warn rock and a good view of the approach in the background. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmH6S3kqjr0/VEj-2KbqUiI/AAAAAAAAAj4/rohQEOvndos/s1600/IMG_2947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmH6S3kqjr0/VEj-2KbqUiI/AAAAAAAAAj4/rohQEOvndos/s1600/IMG_2947.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clouds are coming in again. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hQZ1D1pIsdo/VEkCsrfxanI/AAAAAAAAAkM/f97lj1NVFwQ/s1600/P1110361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hQZ1D1pIsdo/VEkCsrfxanI/AAAAAAAAAkM/f97lj1NVFwQ/s1600/P1110361.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a view. Switzerland on one side and Austria on the other. It didn't quite look like this on the day of the send :P Photo: Calum Muskett </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6032J-VMB0/VEkADgAI0MI/AAAAAAAAAkA/DRIyERUC41E/s1600/IMG_2960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6032J-VMB0/VEkADgAI0MI/AAAAAAAAAkA/DRIyERUC41E/s1600/IMG_2960.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clouds have arrived. This is our view from the ledge at the top of pitch 4. Still two more to go! Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IFFikh_t64A/VEkF7kMe4BI/AAAAAAAAAkY/zN6_CSzkTTw/s1600/Cold%2Band%2Bdamp%2Bon%2Bthe%2B7a%2B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IFFikh_t64A/VEkF7kMe4BI/AAAAAAAAAkY/zN6_CSzkTTw/s1600/Cold%2Band%2Bdamp%2Bon%2Bthe%2B7a%2B.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day of the send. Back on the rock after a forced one and a half hour break due to rain. Thank god for the sheltered ledge. Scary and cold climbing in a white out with some decent size run outs. Photo: Calum Muskett</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BfyP1jC0efo/VEkIErmMV0I/AAAAAAAAAkk/S8MbUhRqgwE/s1600/Keeping%2Bwarm%2Bon%2Bthe%2Bred-point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BfyP1jC0efo/VEkIErmMV0I/AAAAAAAAAkk/S8MbUhRqgwE/s1600/Keeping%2Bwarm%2Bon%2Bthe%2Bred-point.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to stay warm for the upcoming crux pitch!! Legs in the haul bag is the trick. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wc6146NHOvQ/VEkJfwn7R5I/AAAAAAAAAkw/rX4mRHUKNr4/s1600/Atmospheric%2Bconditions%2Bon%2Bthe%2B7a%2B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wc6146NHOvQ/VEkJfwn7R5I/AAAAAAAAAkw/rX4mRHUKNr4/s1600/Atmospheric%2Bconditions%2Bon%2Bthe%2B7a%2B.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just keep on climbing. Believe that its dry and it will be... (I think) That's what I told myself anyway. Here I am on the 4th pitch looking up at the crux pitches to come in the fog. Uh Oh! Photo: Calum Muskett</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oe6kH1U0rwE/VEkMQLF-NcI/AAAAAAAAAk8/uY_pMgZgVXE/s1600/P1110560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oe6kH1U0rwE/VEkMQLF-NcI/AAAAAAAAAk8/uY_pMgZgVXE/s1600/P1110560.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back on the ground. So psyched to have achieved the goal of the trip. Silbergier (8b,7c+,8a+,7a+,8b/+,8a) done and dusted! Thanks so much to my partner of the trip Calum Muskett for keeping me alive on these big walls the past few weeks. </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-jh4F5rmyA/VEkPLBNS_CI/AAAAAAAAAlQ/b_mSl9Zvrbk/s1600/P1110438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-jh4F5rmyA/VEkPLBNS_CI/AAAAAAAAAlQ/b_mSl9Zvrbk/s1600/P1110438.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch three 8a+. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Next up some proper alpine climbing in Chamonix. I had to use those axe things and even those spiky things that go on ya feet. Team extreme that's for sure. No better place for it but on the peak of Aguille Du Midi.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h6qFLnzdQhY/VEn3D_vaOBI/AAAAAAAAAlg/HSsiSFVJzPg/s1600/P1110561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h6qFLnzdQhY/VEn3D_vaOBI/AAAAAAAAAlg/HSsiSFVJzPg/s1600/P1110561.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thats right... I'm alpine climbing. Atop of Aguille Du Midi about to take my first steps in Crampons. Psyched. Ok fine, I did fall over once but that's it. What a beautiful place. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rOIKFb9cLvk/VEn6SHGw5oI/AAAAAAAAAls/4J3mkXMmprA/s1600/P1110571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rOIKFb9cLvk/VEn6SHGw5oI/AAAAAAAAAls/4J3mkXMmprA/s1600/P1110571.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eRNKHdw7Qdo/VEn8AtYCThI/AAAAAAAAAl0/hz2XUwxQ5hw/s1600/P1110585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eRNKHdw7Qdo/VEn8AtYCThI/AAAAAAAAAl0/hz2XUwxQ5hw/s1600/P1110585.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up high on Ma Doltan of the South Face. Granite crack climbing...&nbsp; Uh Oh. Great fun. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P75MPg2FSsU/VEn_JZKB1KI/AAAAAAAAAmA/OPixAXWBZEw/s1600/IMG_2980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P75MPg2FSsU/VEn_JZKB1KI/AAAAAAAAAmA/OPixAXWBZEw/s1600/IMG_2980.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calum in the awkward transition between crampons and climbing boots. About 8 or 9 pitches later we should be at the top. Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LWH3_0YsD-s/VEoDWz9k-RI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/mLrzBapk6Gs/s1600/IMG_2984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LWH3_0YsD-s/VEoDWz9k-RI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/mLrzBapk6Gs/s1600/IMG_2984.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh no, what you doing Calum? Taped hands mean...... Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfK1L-xnHFE/VEoGKfqiJHI/AAAAAAAAAmY/Nr1xlGIbsi4/s1600/IMG_3001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfK1L-xnHFE/VEoGKfqiJHI/AAAAAAAAAmY/Nr1xlGIbsi4/s1600/IMG_3001.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, crack climbing. Horizontal roof crack climbing as well. So hard! Good effort Calum. Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q16hfJXEIMQ/VEoJQcstEEI/AAAAAAAAAmk/F7Ynmv8sREc/s1600/P1110627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q16hfJXEIMQ/VEoJQcstEEI/AAAAAAAAAmk/F7Ynmv8sREc/s1600/P1110627.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing with Mont Blanc in the background. Nice! Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QaTO4NzZRbM/VEugSvdtuCI/AAAAAAAAAm0/yzTchnGSP6Y/s1600/P1110638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QaTO4NzZRbM/VEugSvdtuCI/AAAAAAAAAm0/yzTchnGSP6Y/s1600/P1110638.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lot of rock fall going on nearby.&nbsp; A little too close for my liking. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wBLV7AjMjt0/VEuhdd2sSPI/AAAAAAAAAm8/lNaSuIN9C_4/s1600/IMG_3050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wBLV7AjMjt0/VEuhdd2sSPI/AAAAAAAAAm8/lNaSuIN9C_4/s1600/IMG_3050.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our hut for the night. Cold but beautiful! Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pgm7qDHSPx0/VEujbhJQNAI/AAAAAAAAAnI/MgUlK5aqeDQ/s1600/P1110663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pgm7qDHSPx0/VEujbhJQNAI/AAAAAAAAAnI/MgUlK5aqeDQ/s1600/P1110663.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next morning it was time to get back on the ice and snow. The usual route was busy so this was Calums idea of a short cut. Pretty dam fun. </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uuDlJd54IwI/VEukqepWL5I/AAAAAAAAAnQ/VHI8lEsQ9Hs/s1600/P1110669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uuDlJd54IwI/VEukqepWL5I/AAAAAAAAAnQ/VHI8lEsQ9Hs/s1600/P1110669.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Psyched to have successfully squeezed my way up that chimney. Not long to go now. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ISnlKFKBC8/VEul3jo3BUI/AAAAAAAAAnY/q1sDjjKYJMc/s1600/P1110678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ISnlKFKBC8/VEul3jo3BUI/AAAAAAAAAnY/q1sDjjKYJMc/s1600/P1110678.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a poser. The summit is in site! What a great adventure. Photo: Calum Muskett</td></tr></tbody></table>Well that's the end of the big stuff for this year anyway. Just want to say a huge thanks to Calum Muskett for giving me this opportunity and for keeping me safe when I had absolutely no clue what I was doing (which was most of the time). Lets do it again!!<br /><br />Stay tuned for part two including Rocklands, UK, and Ceuse!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-64131277465763860102014-06-10T14:23:00.001-07:002014-06-10T14:24:32.033-07:00Climb Now Work LaterSo.... As usual&nbsp;I have been pretty slack with keeping this blog updated but trust me,&nbsp;I,m trying. I will get better at it.<br /><br />What's been happening in the world of Wiz you ask? Well all the days are merging together and&nbsp;I have been climbing a lot of rocks. Traveling, climbing, eating.... Sounds pretty good to me. One thing is for sure though. I am living my dream and having a lot of fun doing so. A few things have changed with me recently, and I am very excited to have joined both Rab and DMM as part of their teams. I am really looking forward to working with them.<br /><br />The last six weeks or so has been pretty exciting actually. Climbing in the UK, to bouldering in Ticino, to climbing in the Frankenjura, then Bouldering in Magic Wood, then back to the sunny Frankenjura. Now&nbsp;I am back in North Wales with the aim of hopefully climbing lots outside and when it rains, training time!!!<br /><br />So where do&nbsp;I start....<br /><br /><b>Ten days in Ticino.</b> <br />Again&nbsp;I teamed up with the German power house Alexander Megos and together we decided to head down to the famous bouldering area of Ticino (Cresiano and Chironico) to have a go at this thing called bouldering that everyone is talking about. I hear its meant to be pretty good there...<br />We quickly realised that bouldering wasnt easy... I spent a lot of my days falling and sitting on the pads staring at the wall. What the hell am&nbsp;I meant to do? Bouldering is all about finding the 'trick' but unfortunately for me a lot of the time I didnt, leaving me puzzled and empty handed. I found this quite hard to deal with because for me&nbsp;I like to move on the rock pulling through one nice move after the next but with hard bouldering this doesn't happen very often. I found this very frustrating to begin with as&nbsp;I would look back at how my day went and&nbsp;I may have only pulled a few moves in the entire day and the rest of the time spent was trying and falling. Something had to change. There has to be a secret to this.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4U4yMAh5WA/U5BcX5zOvZI/AAAAAAAAAdo/ZMwCvASvirw/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4U4yMAh5WA/U5BcX5zOvZI/AAAAAAAAAdo/ZMwCvASvirw/s1600/photo.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bouldering in the woods. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tk-4fF_St1U/U5BeB1vigRI/AAAAAAAAAd0/MGjPTzovcRQ/s1600/photo-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tk-4fF_St1U/U5BeB1vigRI/AAAAAAAAAd0/MGjPTzovcRQ/s1600/photo-1.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad view from the balcony in Ticino. Photo: Wiz Fineron </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>None the less&nbsp;I was having a lot of fun climbing everyday (we were there for ten days and we only had one rest day) so it had to be good for my climbing. Not so much for the skin though. Toward the end of my time in Ticino&nbsp;I began to notice some improvements in my bouldering and the secret was slowly being revealed. Both myself and Alex had been approaching these problems way to calmly... Trying to fined the easiest and smoothest way through each move. Typical route climbers. But we soon found out that this was not the way. The trick to getting up these darn problems is being angry. With bouldering you have to be willing to let emotion out and really find the drive to want the problem bad enough to actually do it. One day this clicked and from then on a chilled out climbing day turned in to an exciting, tantrum packed bouldering session. Pads were flung through the forest, shoes were thrown at the wall, and in the end we just ended up having full on brawls with each other. (that is a joke) Who ever said that violence wasnt the answer?... It worked. Problems began to go down one after the next. (more so for some of course).<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGxRZnLcvcA/U5DzfBrWdZI/AAAAAAAAAeE/kajUJrfcIEU/s1600/Ticino01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGxRZnLcvcA/U5DzfBrWdZI/AAAAAAAAAeE/kajUJrfcIEU/s1600/Ticino01.JPG" height="640" width="422" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victory over Alex. He may be good at climbing but definitely needs to practice his fighting :) Photo: Alex Megos</td></tr></tbody></table>Unfortunately&nbsp;I only found out this trick about three days before we had to leave. This was a bit gutting but&nbsp;I made sure&nbsp;I was to get things done in the time&nbsp;I had left. 'An 8a a day, keeps the doctors away' some people say. So that was it!<br />On the second to last day&nbsp;I found the courage to finally try a really cool looking problem called Delusions Of Grandeur. A problem that&nbsp;I had wanted to try since early on in the trip but due to how&nbsp;I was climbing, the number '8b' seemed way out of reach. Anyway&nbsp;I thought&nbsp;I should get on it just to see how it was with the thought 'There is always next time...' in mind. But surprisingly it went really well. After a few tries of working out the right beta&nbsp;etc, I&nbsp;began having tries from the start and surprised my self by climbing to the end of the slopey rail on the first go. I knew it was possible now so it was just a patience game from there. I fell off towards the end a few more times before&nbsp;I realised that&nbsp;I that was too tired to do it this session. We still had time in the morning to come back before we drove off so that was the plan. Rest up and get it done quickly the next day. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BEel8q1m1Z0/U5HbOTnA0pI/AAAAAAAAAeU/SSJNqNDA1nE/s1600/Ticino11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BEel8q1m1Z0/U5HbOTnA0pI/AAAAAAAAAeU/SSJNqNDA1nE/s1600/Ticino11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having fun on ????? 8a. Photo: Alex Megos.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>So after chilling in the heat all morning waiting for the cooler conditions we wondered on down the hill to give it a last go before heading off.&nbsp; At first it felt hard again and it made me worried it wasnt going to happen... But after a few warm up goes and revising the beta&nbsp;I had it in the bag. As usual when you finally send something it didnt feel to bad at all. Definitely a lot left in the tank.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3O9vRCV8FqM/U5I-EnAAIlI/AAAAAAAAAek/PPtc4srSDgU/s1600/Ticino13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3O9vRCV8FqM/U5I-EnAAIlI/AAAAAAAAAek/PPtc4srSDgU/s1600/Ticino13.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiz Fineron on Delusions Of Grandeur 8a+/V12 Photo: Alex Megos</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>So now that we had left Ticino having a great trip but it was definitely in the back of both of our minds that we hadnt climbed has hard as we would have like to. We were heading back to Germany for a few days to come up with the next plan but in the mean time the weather was looking good in the Frankenjura so the psyche was on for some short hard bouldery routes!<br /><br /><b>1 week in the Frankenjura:</b><br />It was the first time that&nbsp;I had been in the Frankenjura and it hadnt been raining. I have been there twice before and and it seemed like the rainiest place on earth. So to finally to be there when the weather&nbsp;was good&nbsp;I was so excited to get out and try some of the classics. I just wanted to climb everything and anything. Alex is a bit of a local&nbsp;I hear so a guide book was definitely not needed.<br /><br />Having only about a week we decided that only one rest day would be more than enough. Climb climb climb!! The psyche was high.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TSepL6xxJ3c/U5QyjvrhA5I/AAAAAAAAAe0/kR-tmjxaStU/s1600/photo-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TSepL6xxJ3c/U5QyjvrhA5I/AAAAAAAAAe0/kR-tmjxaStU/s1600/photo-2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too strong. Training at the crag. Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>As usual it took me a few days to get the swing of things and by that time we only had a couple more days left. Not to worry though as&nbsp;I was determined to make the most of it. On our last day in the forest before we took the long drive to Switzerland (Alex drive, me sleep), iIwas feeling strong and very psyched. I just couldnt stopped. The day started off with a climb called Straight Edge. A short hard bouldery 8b+ face climb on small crimps. I had tried it a few times a couple of days&nbsp;before and came close so&nbsp;I was eager to get it done before we left. Having falling off the last hard move every time&nbsp;I just had to get the body position right and it would be done. Pump isnt really too much of an issue on this one. So&nbsp;I warmed up, put the quickdraws in and tried the move a few times. Came down, rested and then bam, Execution. It is a great feeling to climb something hard, and&nbsp;feeling solid on every move. Later in the day we returned to the same area and&nbsp;I decided to try a climb called Boiling Point. Another short one (of course) but this time steep and powerful on pockets with limited feet options graded at 8b. Considering the size of my Biceps (or at least where they are supposed to be)&nbsp;I am not normally very good at these kind of climbs. I went up, checked it out, put the clips in and was feeling strong. Still high on Psyche&nbsp;I came down, pulled the rope through and tied straight back in. About two minutes later I powered my way through it cutting loose and jumping my way to the top. It felt like&nbsp;I was swinging around on monkey bars. Great fun. Next up was a one move wonder 8a+ called Bad Brain. I fell of the crux on the first go but then found myself a cheating heal hook making the move really easy. Came down and then climbed to the top straight away. More like 7a+ this way. :P<br />That was the end to a great days climbing in the Frankenjura all with the excitement of spending the next 12 days bouldering in a Magical Woodland.<br /><br /><b>12 days in Magic Wood:</b><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qA5_Y4MRZbo/U5Q95JX_-ZI/AAAAAAAAAfE/iX3A2oUv2WA/s1600/MagicWood___028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qA5_Y4MRZbo/U5Q95JX_-ZI/AAAAAAAAAfE/iX3A2oUv2WA/s1600/MagicWood___028.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Psyched!!! Photo:Alex Megos</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Magic Wood is a place that&nbsp;I have heard a lot about, seen many pictures and a lot of videos. It looked amazing. I could not wait. After having figured out the secret to this bouldering thing toward the end of our time in Ticino&nbsp;I was keen to give it another shot. I was feeling very psyched, strong and angry for some bouldeing. This was going to be a good trip.<br />I came up with a goal of wanting to do the same amount of boulders 8a or harder than the amount of days that we were there. So the attack plan was to climb hard all day everyday no matter what. Climbing with Alex really helped with this. Seeing him just walk up problems that&nbsp;I would normally perceive as being hard made me realise that actually there is no reason why&nbsp;I cant do that. Giving me a really good head space for hard bouldering meaning no matter what the number was,&nbsp;I got on it and gave it a go. Day after day, some cold, some hot and some wet we were out there climbing and having a lot of fun and that is what its about.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jq04kJbTLkE/U5RJ3Z8U_GI/AAAAAAAAAfU/YxLhHYHbDUY/s1600/MagicWood___044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jq04kJbTLkE/U5RJ3Z8U_GI/AAAAAAAAAfU/YxLhHYHbDUY/s1600/MagicWood___044.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad place to climb. Photo:Alex Megos</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Another goal of mine was to climb my first 8b/v13 boulder problem. A goal that&nbsp;I have had in my mind for a while now so after having done a fair bit of bouldering recently and liking the style here in Magic Wood,&nbsp;I was feeling strong. Time to try hard. First&nbsp;I tried a problem called Steppen Wolf. A short but hard problem with each move being just as hard as the last leading to a tricky mantle. It was definitely tricky. To cut a long story short,&nbsp;I was pretty much to weak to do it so&nbsp;I had to start looking for another one otherwise it would drive me mad trying the same move over and over. I like to at least pull a few moves in a row before falling off. Next up was a climb called One Summer In Paradise. A really cool looking bloc with small in cut edges leading to the top. I first tried the Pura Vida section as it is meant to be a grade easier but still climbs through all the hard bit of OSIP. It didnt feel to bad, and after a bit of working out&nbsp;I just had to stick the first move. This was definitely the hardest move so once&nbsp;I got it&nbsp;I climbed to the top. OSIP is pretty much just an extended start from the left so after a bit of a rest&nbsp;I decided to give it a go. Coming in from the left meant that you skip the first move of Pura Vida (for me the hardest) so my theory was as long as you have a little bit of endurance it shouldn't be to much harder. After a few tries all falling off on the last few hard moves&nbsp;I realised that it wasnt going to be that easy... The extra few moves at the beginning meant that&nbsp;I was that little bit more pumped on the final moves making them seem much harder. After a rest day&nbsp;I returned super psyched to get it done. I knew it was possible now so&nbsp;I just had to wait for the right moment.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4Iuy3c8QGw/U5W9qzswxkI/AAAAAAAAAfk/52BQEFuisig/s1600/MagicWood___033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4Iuy3c8QGw/U5W9qzswxkI/AAAAAAAAAfk/52BQEFuisig/s1600/MagicWood___033.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect weather... Photo: Alex Megos</td></tr></tbody></table>The plan was to warm up, climb the end a few times and then hopefully climb it first go from the start and that is exactly what happened. It was a great feeling but something inside me just didnt agree to 8b/v13... I just didnt feel like I worked hard enough on it for that grade so&nbsp;I decided 8a+/b sounded fare. This meant&nbsp;I still hadnt achieved my goal so the next one on the list to try was the famous Riverbed problem. This on the other hand&nbsp;I found really hard. My first session on it&nbsp;I got totally shut down on the end moves (the crux) but it was a problem that I had heard a lot of great things about before going there so&nbsp;I was willing to put in the time and effort to see how&nbsp;I got on. All the holds on it are all quite skin friendly meaning&nbsp;I could really squeeze tight and give it all&nbsp;I had. Each session progress was visible keeping me in a good head space to keep trying. By my third session on it&nbsp;I was falling off right at the very end so&nbsp;I knew that on the next go&nbsp;I just had to try that little bit harder for that little bit longer and that would be it.<br /><br />Here is our video that myself and Alex made of a few problems we did in Magic Wood including:<br />Sofasurfer, Jacks Broken Heart, One Summer In Paradise, Steppenwolf, Riverbed and The Never Ending Sorry.<br /><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/95501608">http://vimeo.com/95501608</a><br /><br />Towards the end of our time in Magic Wood the weather gods had decided that it was time for us to leave. The weather was looking really bad for the following week so unfortunatly we had to leave a few days earlier than expected. Being the only ones left in the campground we figured it was most likely not going to be sunny tomorrow. This was a little disappointing but after being there for twelve days and having done twelve 8a's or harder (including my first 8b)&nbsp;I was pretty happy with how it went and was ready for the next stage.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XOP9uPwbC0/U5XJFQYyacI/AAAAAAAAAgI/dsmv3JJbzic/s1600/photo-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3XOP9uPwbC0/U5XJFQYyacI/AAAAAAAAAgI/dsmv3JJbzic/s1600/photo-3.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad view here in Magic Wood Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;Grades a are a funny thing. Some people may think its easy, some may think its hard but climbing is such a specific sport and is different for everyone. I believe the numbers are there as a guideline and a great way to follow your progression so dont be held back by a high number (we all do it) If you think it looks cool just get on it. You might surprise your self.&nbsp; <br /><br />Next we headed back to the sunny Frankenjura for a few more days before&nbsp;I went back to the UK. We had a few really great days in the Frankenjura but one stands out among the rest. It was my second to last day and it was a chilly one at that. A few days earlier the idea of going to try Action Directe came in to Alex's mind and he could not get rid of it so he just had to go give it a go. After a chilled out morning trying to warm up we found our selves standing beneath it. It was a cold windy day making it very hard to keep the fingers warm especially on pockets. There were a few others hanging around and you could tell Alex was nervous. After a bit of umming and arring he finally decided to get on it and&nbsp;I was lucky enough to be the one belaying him. I didnt really have much to do of course because&nbsp;after only a few tries he climbed and screamed his way to the top.&nbsp;It was&nbsp;one of the most inspirational pieces of climbing&nbsp;I have ever seen. Hopefully one day soon I will be back there ready to climb it myself.<br /><br />Here is a video of the ascent here:<br /><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/96647951">http://vimeo.com/96647951</a><br /><br />For the past few weeks&nbsp;I have been back in North Wales doing a bit of everything really. Trad climbing, Sport climbing, Bouldering and just having fun. It is a great place for me to use as a base over here in Europe as it still has a bit of a homey feel to it. Lots of nice people to hang out with and when the weather is good there is some great climbing to be done right on the door step.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DWLAF0xJ8GQ/U5XVMi-JbZI/AAAAAAAAAgY/gqfRGXJYjXY/s1600/photo-4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DWLAF0xJ8GQ/U5XVMi-JbZI/AAAAAAAAAgY/gqfRGXJYjXY/s1600/photo-4.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Llanberis pass. Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BRh4VwUDIWM/U5XVmYtwcrI/AAAAAAAAAgg/oUnxHS5un1g/s1600/photo-5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BRh4VwUDIWM/U5XVmYtwcrI/AAAAAAAAAgg/oUnxHS5un1g/s1600/photo-5.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The end of a great days climbing. Photo:Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Whats next you ask?<br />I am going to be spending the following three weeks out in the Alps doing some big multi pitch routes. A completely new form of climbing to me so&nbsp;I am very excited to learn a lot and hopefully climb some impressive looking walls. Psyched.<br /><br />Living the life!!<br /><br />Thanks to my sponsors FiveTen, DMM, and Rab for the ongoing support. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-31216144129129162742014-02-13T08:22:00.001-08:002014-02-13T08:22:32.753-08:00La escalada en Espana!!!<div style="text-align: left;">So where do i start?... Since finishing my epic training cycle, back in early December it was finally time to leave Germany and head south to Spain for the winter climbing season. Since arriving in Europe many months ago, the main goal has always been Spain so to finally arrive and actually see this place for real feels amazing! I started off in Margalef. I am a huge fan of pockets so this was a perfect place to start. I spent the next three weeks or so here camping in the car park and climbing everyday I could. The skin tends to get trashed here pretty quickly so I had to get used to climbing in pain or with a lot of tape!&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCo0VjMwt_s/UvzQMO-9xeI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/qIZTg87qJhs/s1600/IMG_2730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCo0VjMwt_s/UvzQMO-9xeI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/qIZTg87qJhs/s1600/IMG_2730.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption">Everyday in Margalef.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">After a week or so of climbing and getting used to the style I was feeling strong. It was time to try something hard! Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies, a great looking line graded at 8c/33/5.14b involving a couple of hard boulder problems and a lot of mono's! I was Psyched! After some surprisingly fast progress on the route success was near and after only a few days of effort BAM it was done! After this I wasn't to sure when I was going to be leaving so I decided to not project anything and instead just try and climb a lot of things slightly easier than my limit but with only a handful of tries. This was great fun and a great way of training to get fit for the next step. Siurana!</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TK0Mh4wNfQw/UvzRHPGO3RI/AAAAAAAAAaY/9QV6lHyNhX0/s1600/IMG_2734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TK0Mh4wNfQw/UvzRHPGO3RI/AAAAAAAAAaY/9QV6lHyNhX0/s1600/IMG_2734.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the day at Margalef, Spain.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">&nbsp;It is every climbers goal to push themselves to the limit and reach the next step in their climbing and for me, I have been wanting to reach that next step for a while! I climbed my first 8c back in late 2012 and since then I have been pushing myself hard to get to that 'next level' in my climbing. I arrived in Siurana early January feeling strong and very psyched. This was going to be the place where I finally break through that barrier. Again the style here in Siurana is completely different so as always I spent the first week or so climbing in lots of different sectors and really getting used to the crimpy and technical style of Siurana. In doing so I managed to claim my hardest flash to date with the popular classic Migranya, 8b. Not exactly Siurana style but a great steep and powerful route none the less. I really had to fight for this one so it was definitely good training for what was to come.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--AgoLOECB-M/UvzU9eSUoSI/AAAAAAAAAak/g2Zv8EGzI_Y/s1600/75932_10201859555144993_948452341_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--AgoLOECB-M/UvzU9eSUoSI/AAAAAAAAAak/g2Zv8EGzI_Y/s1600/75932_10201859555144993_948452341_n.jpg" height="359" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not me! on Migranya 8b.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7bm5SWK7rI/Uvzcwn_7igI/AAAAAAAAAbA/Vmohj4Y-96Q/s1600/P1110364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7bm5SWK7rI/Uvzcwn_7igI/AAAAAAAAAbA/Vmohj4Y-96Q/s1600/P1110364.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Siurana, Spain.</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1c3b9MZkSIk/UvzVjPmdc8I/AAAAAAAAAas/wPOs6KNp4Pk/s1600/995843_10201859567425300_1383221845_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1c3b9MZkSIk/UvzVjPmdc8I/AAAAAAAAAas/wPOs6KNp4Pk/s1600/995843_10201859567425300_1383221845_n.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whoooops!!! I broke it! A large flake from the start of Pati Nosa.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">Siurana is home to the famous El Pati sector where there are some amazing and very famous climbs such as La Rambla and Estado Critico as well as many other hard test pieces. A steep 40 meter high orange and blue wall caught my attention immediately and man was I excited to find a project on there to start working on! I was recommended a climb called Pati Nosa, originally graded at 8c (a hard one at that) but recently a couple of holds have broken off pushing it in to the 8c+ range. It wasn't to hard to find the motivation and will power to really try hard on it as just to the left Daniel Jung was throwing himself at La Rambla over and over coming very close every time! This was very inspiring and it really made me throw everything I had in to my project. I wanted this one badly. For days and days, try after try I came closer and closer but sticking the first dyno move from the ground became a huge problem for me. Time and time again I would get to the same move, set up, go for it and fall. Very frustrating. Sticking this move definitely did not mean it was over but by this stage I had done it from this point to the top a couple of times now so I knew it was possible!&nbsp;</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6i6d-rvrlL8/UvzeZCU8vqI/AAAAAAAAAbI/h9bzqeLcBsw/s1600/1797976_10151931118903342_1348928919_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6i6d-rvrlL8/UvzeZCU8vqI/AAAAAAAAAbI/h9bzqeLcBsw/s1600/1797976_10151931118903342_1348928919_o.jpg" height="335" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption">Wiz Fineron on Pati Nosa. Photo: Harry larkins</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">Patience was the key. Each try I tried to stay positive and treat each attempt as training. If I fell off that next attempt would hopefully be that little bit easier. <br />After around 8 days of effort, battling with freezing finger tips, bad weather and whatever else, I was there. I had stuck the move. Luckily for me this was that perfect moment. Approaching the top crux I was feeling pretty damn pumped but I still felt like I could do it...I just had to try hard for a few more moves before easier climbing to the top. I really did have to try hard on the last hard dyno move... It even forced a bit of a grunt (a manly one of course) out of me and that never happens. NICE!<br /><br />So, I climbed Pati Nosa!! My hardest yet. This was the most that I have had to work on a single climb so far but I really enjoyed the whole process. No matter what the grade, I tried harder than ever, got stronger both physically and mentally and have learnt a great deal from my time on the route. In terms of reaching that next step in my climbing I think I can now say that I am finally there! YEY!&nbsp;</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jsL-3YkKuDc/UvzlVYoWbxI/AAAAAAAAAbY/S7pHPKXK29E/s1600/P1050316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jsL-3YkKuDc/UvzlVYoWbxI/AAAAAAAAAbY/S7pHPKXK29E/s1600/P1050316.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>&nbsp;Time to start chasing the next!!<br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-21474533086713882052013-12-26T12:19:00.001-08:002013-12-26T12:19:38.327-08:00The Learning Curve - Europe Part 2&nbsp;I had seen many photos of the climbing in Kalymnos and one thing stood out more than anything.... So many tufas! I had only done one Tufa climb before this (Les Colonnettes in Ceuse) so i had some learning to do. I have always enjoyed going to new areas and learning new climbing styles so i was pretty excited to try and master climbing on crazy polished tufas.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ao6jpYOyrj8/UptfJFXR7xI/AAAAAAAAAYs/SYKVoIkq44s/s1600/IMG_2569.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ao6jpYOyrj8/UptfJFXR7xI/AAAAAAAAAYs/SYKVoIkq44s/s640/IMG_2569.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">Kalymnos. Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>Kalymnos was great! Everything was so easy and relaxed. There were a few of us staying together so it made it nice and cheap to rent a little apartment.<br />For the following 6 weeks we had a lot of fun here in kalymnos. Climbing most days, chilling on the beach, slack-lining, swimming, and buzzing around town on scooters! This was the highlight...Racing around the narrow busy streets with some dodgy rented scooter, pushing it to its limit trying to drive up the steep hills with three people squeezed on the back. Helmets..... what are they?<br /><br />The climbing was great fun, but i have to say it did take me a while to get used to the familiar hollow sounding 'dong' as you climbed on to the thin tufas hanging from the roof. I think they were solid but it definetly crossed my mind a few times "what would happen if this thing ripped off" as i was straddling it... Luckily i never found out the answer, which i am pretty happy about actually. <br />The technique i found most useful was the 'straddle', at the time when all else begins to fail, wrap your whole legs around them and sit... Wala, you have a no-hands rest!<br />The constant pinching was endless, each move was another dose of pump often resulting some good air time and bulging forearms. "Can somebody untie my not please....?"<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7AssLoUzfA8/UqcO1OoyyMI/AAAAAAAAAZk/xpnlHXoUHDY/s1600/IMG_2622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7AssLoUzfA8/UqcO1OoyyMI/AAAAAAAAAZk/xpnlHXoUHDY/s640/IMG_2622.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Irmak Thompson feeling the pump after On-sighting her first 7c+ Photo: Wiz Fineron</td></tr></tbody></table>On the harder climbs the tufas would get much smaller, more like little blobs creating some really cool three dimensional sequences on steep angles. This was great fun to climb.<br />Again i found my self avoiding the crowds, scouting out areas that seemed to be less busy. This was nice, i like having the crag to your self but it did mean i was very limited... I realized this and it had come to the stage where it was pretty hard to avoid the crowds so i just had to toughen the hell up and get on with it. This was a good mentality and i think it worked...&nbsp; <br /><br />We were also lucky enough to be apart of the 'The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival' which was great fun. The Cheap Ass that i am, i was pretty skeptical about paying the 20 euro entry fee, but in the end i definitely feel like it was worth it! A few good days full of climbing, music, slideshows, videos and coming 2nd in the Big Marathon Competition was a bonus! Managed to win a new North Face backpack! That 20 Euros was definitely worth it! Seeing the prize for first place made me wish we tried a little harder.... A Sleeping bag!!!&nbsp; Maybe we shouldn't have done so much sitting around melting in the heat! Oh well.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oCKJQNYIaSU/UqcMi4k-GvI/AAAAAAAAAZM/_uOOSrb3jzM/s1600/PA220003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oCKJQNYIaSU/UqcMi4k-GvI/AAAAAAAAAZM/_uOOSrb3jzM/s640/PA220003.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p5LaZepwOR0/UqcNurcXLSI/AAAAAAAAAZU/dlvGLBOjIoo/s1600/PA280004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p5LaZepwOR0/UqcNurcXLSI/AAAAAAAAAZU/dlvGLBOjIoo/s640/PA280004.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiz Fineron climbing Dont Call Me Greasy 8b, Kalymnos. Photo: Irmak Thompson.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5gWoHP0mVLI/UqcOUqeYAYI/AAAAAAAAAZg/Tuf85KL0lVM/s1600/PA280003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Towards the end of October the season here was coming to an end. The herds of people were getting smaller and the local restaurants and shops began to close down. It was time for yet another important decision to be made and for me this is always going to be hard. I hate making decisions. Where to go next? hmmmm....&nbsp; The plan from the very start was to be in Spain for the winter but i felt like it was to early to go there now. So where do i go for the next month?...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Toward the end of my time here i was getting used to having so many people around and began to climb better and more confident and i manage to do many great climbs. Here are some of the harder ones...<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Fun De Chichunne&nbsp; 8a (flash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Daniboy 8a (flash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Sardonique 8a (2nd go)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Angelica 8a (2nd go)</div>&gt;Gaia 8b<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;O Draconian Devil 8b</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt; Dont call Me Greasy 8b</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Lucky Luca Extension 8b+</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;In the back of my mind i still wanted to be stronger (always stronger) so this is where my master idea came from... "Lets go train hard for the next month and get strong for Spain" So this was the plan. I got in contact with the master of training him self, Alex Megos and before long i arrived back in Germany psyched out of my mind and ready for a long and brutal training cycle.</div>Together with myself, Alex, and Melissa, Team Motivation was ready to attack the Gym hard!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5s8k8xWQ2Vk/UryHTf_El0I/AAAAAAAAAaA/iXFmJXhYR50/s1600/PA280003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5s8k8xWQ2Vk/UryHTf_El0I/AAAAAAAAAaA/iXFmJXhYR50/s640/PA280003.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Dont Call Me Greasy 8b. Photo Irmak Thompson</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Ive been here in Germany now for about five weeks and its been great! Waking up every morning in a lot of pain (good pain) but with a smile on my face and ready to train again! This was the pattern&nbsp; of everyday. Wake up, big breakfast, chill, then train our butts off in the evening! Psyched! I am stronger than Hulk now so watch out.<br />Just want to say a huge Thank You to Alex and his family for having me for the past five or so weeks! Its been great and i have had a really great time. Hope to return soon. Thanks guys!<br /><br />Feeling beaten and ready for a few days off, its time to get the brain thinking again and organize the trip to Spain. Pretty damn psyched for some hard Rock Climbing now!<br /><br />Next stop Margalef, Spain!!!! Psyched!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-52515489839050244072013-12-22T10:06:00.004-08:002013-12-22T10:06:45.597-08:00The learning curve - Europe Part 1I have been in Europe now for over three months and wow, have I seen a lot, done a lot, and learned a lot! I am going to try and focus this blog post more on the places I have been, the journey, and the many important thing that I have learned along the way, instead of purely on hard out climbing. But we shall see how it goes. Hopefully you guys will learn something too.<br /><br />I started my open ended European tour in no-wear else but within the magical southern Alps of France. What an amazing countryside. After a day of confusing train rides and multiple hitchhikes the huge cliff band of Ceuse was in site. Driving to the campground gave me an amazing feeling, making me realize how amazing this place is! I remember saying to my self "wow, I could see myself living here..." Clean blue skies, awesome French food, amazing climbing, and the odd sky diver plunging towards the ground. What more do you need!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E_ie_dllMCw/UoKkS2qnb9I/AAAAAAAAAXM/YpCSTUMaFUw/s1600/GOPR0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E_ie_dllMCw/UoKkS2qnb9I/AAAAAAAAAXM/YpCSTUMaFUw/s640/GOPR0002.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ceuse, the crown of the mountain! Photo: Wiz Fineron</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was my local crag for the next four weeks (almost) and man was i excited to get started! Ceuse, home to some of the best sport climbing in France. How could i not be excited! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My first challenge was to mentally prepare my self for the one hour slog up the steep hill from the camp to the base of the cliff. I had heard mixed comments about this from many people, so the only way for me to find out my self what it was like, was to get on with it and do it. Over the course of the the next three and a half weeks I walked up and down this thing like a mad man. The first week was maybe the hardest as it was really warm and i was pretty unfit, but after a while i found my rhythm, plugged my iPod in and i was off! You end up getting so used to it that you are at the cliff before you know it. I cant say it was easy tho! Music really helps.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The climbing here is amazing! Long sustained pocketed, slightly overhanging limestone was something so different for me as i had just come straight from the Blue Mountains, Australia were i was so used to climbing on short, steep and powerful routes. It didn't take me to long to get my endurance up to scratch and quickly started working through some of the more classic routes of the area. This was my first stop of many to come here in Europe so i didn't rush in to jumping on to anything super hard to quickly...I new that there was plenty of time for that in the following months. I took my time and tried to work on my flashing and on-sighting more than anything. This was a good way for me to get some good mileage and try and gain some fitness. It meant that i climbed in a lot of different sectors, really getting the full experience of Ceuse.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;I quickly learned that the so called "easy warm up routes"were not the best to warm up on as they tend to be on the more vertical to slabby angled walls , meaning they were very technical and thin. Not so good for the fingers. Luckily Ceuse has a bit of everything so its never hard to find a steeper, jug pulling route to warm up on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd_9M432zwM/Uod7BpKyi7I/AAAAAAAAAXc/eozlL1Shwxg/s1600/2013-09-09+15.01.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd_9M432zwM/Uod7BpKyi7I/AAAAAAAAAXc/eozlL1Shwxg/s640/2013-09-09+15.01.13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You could call it a warm up..... swinging around waiting for the shade at Sector Biographie PHOTO: Irmak Thompson.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I quickly noticed that here in Europe, your never climbing alone at the crag. I had heard it gets busy here but wow, i wasnt expecting this many. I didnt evan know this many people climbed! :) For the first week or so the camp was absolutely full, but this was good. The place had a good vibe to it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Personally i found it quite hard to get used to climbing with so many people around, coming from NZ (and even in Australia) its very rare to turn up to an area and it being chockablock. Evan now after more than three months in Europe i still feel like i am learning how to adjust to this madness. Its different.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Having the mind set of not worrying about rushing in to trying anything too hard had it pros and cons. It ment that i did a lot of climbing and got pretty fit, which i really enjoyed but i also began to notice that i was falling in to a trap. A trap where i became so comfortable with just climbing things that i new i should be able to do with in a few tries. Maybe this had something to do with there being so many people around, i didnt have the confidence to try something at my limit and go through the first stages of projecting.? I also felt like every day that i walked all that way i really wanted to be able to walk back down knowing that i have achieved something. Projecting something super hard for me was an intimidating thought because the possibility was there that i would leave disappointed and with nothing done...? At the time i was fine with it, just climbing lots and having fun but now looking back..... I mean come on..... gees... If this ever happens to you just slap your self in the face and just get on with it. Confidence is a major part of climbing, so you cant let these thought get in the way.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d0am6j3Wngw/UotcCPSaR5I/AAAAAAAAAXs/EYdCHI7_erI/s1600/2013-09-05+12.12.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d0am6j3Wngw/UotcCPSaR5I/AAAAAAAAAXs/EYdCHI7_erI/s640/2013-09-05+12.12.10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The camp... shared with the untidy Aussies, kiwis and the German! Photo: Irmak Thompson</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I don't feel to fussed about it all as i have a suspicious feeling that i am going to be staying here in Europe for a fairly long time (luxuries of a European passport) so after a lot more rock climbing and some more hard out training i am 100% psyched to return to Ceuse much stronger, and now with the classics out of the way i will be able to focus all my energy on the harder stuff! ATTACK! After all i am here traveling around Europe climbing (living the dream) so you cant feel too down about things like this. Im only 18 so there is plenty of time to get strong... except actually, no i really want to be strong NOW!&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After almost a month of being in Ceuse we all found our psyche levels slowly decreasing. Due to the sun being on the cliff for most of the day there was a lot of sitting around until about three pm. This was the crux of everyday, trying to build up everyone's psyche to get of our butts and face the walk for another time. Going climbing wasn't the problem, everyone was psyched for that but just thinking about the walk made us all fall asleep in our chairs! Most of the time we were all pretty good but towards the last few days we were having far to many rest days so something had to change! Our good friend Jonas was always talking about the Frankenjura... The sentence "short walk ins" was enough and with in 24 hours we had made our decision and were saying good by to Ceuse.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Ceuse is an amazing place to climb but it is important that you approach it correctly! Having a deadline of when you are leaving is important otherwise you will fall in to a trap of " ah...its ok ill just chill for today and climb tomorrow" with this mind set you never get anything done. This is one of the main things i learnt during my time there and will make sure i apply next time i return.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;Here are some of the great climbs i did:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Bourinator 8a (2nd go)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;La Couleur Du Vent 8a (2nd go)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Petit Tom 8a (2nd go)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Carte Blanche 8a (onsight)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Sueures Froides 8a+ (Flash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;L'ami De Tout Le Monde 8b&nbsp; (2nd go, so close to the flash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Slow Food (right) 8b</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-94foE5-g9wc/UotxjJ61egI/AAAAAAAAAX8/RnIAsbcZ4YE/s1600/2013-09-09+20.02.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-94foE5-g9wc/UotxjJ61egI/AAAAAAAAAX8/RnIAsbcZ4YE/s640/2013-09-09+20.02.56.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sunset at Ceuse. Photo: Irmak Thompson&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Goodbye Ceuse! Hello the Frankenjura!&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next up was Frankenjura. After a long drive we arrived in the forest covered land. Strangely there was no rock in sight..... Hmmmmm are we in the right place...? But yes, hidden within the beautiful, green forest, are some of the hardest sport climbs in the world. Some may say they are not the most inspiring looking lines but they definitely climb well for sure!</div><br />Unfortunately from day one we were very unlucky with the weather, having it rain almost every day for the next two weeks! Luckily the weather had been really good for a while before this so the rock was still dry thanks to the steepness of these crags! (if you call this lucky) <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the first few days were good and i managed to get some good climbing in. It felt like i was at home again.... short pocketed climbs and with mostly no one else at the crag! it was great, It felt like the confidence that i may have lost climbing in Ceuse was back and i was buzzing with psyche! Lets go climbing!!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oa0pFC1Wz94/UpiSm5darBI/AAAAAAAAAYM/yQrRwUtDPnI/s1600/IMG_2383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oa0pFC1Wz94/UpiSm5darBI/AAAAAAAAAYM/yQrRwUtDPnI/s640/IMG_2383.JPG" width="640" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Most blue sky we saw the whole trip....Nice day climbing at Elderado.</div><br />The first few days were great! Confidence and psyche were high, and having a vehicle made it easy to find the dry crags.&nbsp; <br />Unfortunately this had to come to an end after a few days as our good friend "the german" had to return to 'the normal life', having to start uni soon, so we made our selves at home at the awesome Oma eichler camp ground! <br />From this point on the weather became worse and worse, so we were very lucky to have such a nice place to stay. Our days were spent watching movies, internet, eating (lots), and walking in circles going crazy... I want to go rock climbing!!! I was lucky enough to have some contacts in the area, so i let my good friend Alex know that im around and he quickly invited me over to his house for a couple of days to do some training. You dont know what training is until you train with this guy. Amazing strength and the will to try hard! Inspiring. I NEED TO GET STRONGER! I continued to go back and forth from camp and his place a couple of times as i had a new found psyche to train hard and man did i want to get strong! Awesome boulder sessions at Cafe Kraft to crazy strength training to ring sessions at home and a mid night beast-maker session was how we were doing it. The Psyche was high! Every time, I would retern back to camp a broken man, waking up the next morning in agony but with a smile on my face. The feeling of pushing your body to the limit is amazing and for me... addictive! Pain means your getting stronger! (hopefully)<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5pOrqmjZFk/UptRPC_hPBI/AAAAAAAAAYc/M6HqTRv8-nE/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-12-01+at+4.03.25+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5pOrqmjZFk/UptRPC_hPBI/AAAAAAAAAYc/M6HqTRv8-nE/s640/Screen+shot+2013-12-01+at+4.03.25+PM.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">Eldorado</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Hanging around at camp getting miserable and complaining about the weather was obviously not gonna get me strong so something had to be changed. Pretty much everyone else at the camp felt the same and were all heading to Kalymnos, Greece together in a few days so after a bit of umming and arring i decided to join. F@#$ it... lets go climbing. I really enjoyed the little bit of climbing i experienced here in the Frankenjura and definitely knew that i would return, making the decision much easier to leave. On the other hand, the camp mum baked some very amazing cakes.... this was hard to leave behind.<br /><br />Here are some climbs i managed to get up in between the rain:<br />&gt;Vogeln Verboten 7c+ (flash)<br />&gt;Ekel 7c+ (2nd go)<br />&gt;Heise Finger 7c+ (2nd go)<br />&gt;Out Of Berlin 8a (flash)<br />&gt;Simon 8a+ (2nd go)<br />&gt;Witchcraft 8a+ (3rd)<br /><br />So yet another decision had been made and before i knew it i was flying in to the beautiful islands of Greece.&nbsp; This is what i love about Europe.... Its so easy and cheap (most of the time) to travel from country to country, all with amazing climbing to be done.<br /><br />Still more to come, so stay tuned for part two...<br />Enjoy<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-23127596711871844352013-08-23T09:18:00.001-07:002013-09-27T03:30:07.134-07:00Australia and beyond!I have been in Australia now for almost four months and a lot has been happening. Everything from moving out of the tent in the bush, to beautiful crisp days in the mountains, to bouldering in the Grampians, and to finally booking tickets for the next step of my trip.<br /><br />First up is the story of how i have changed from a total dirt bag climber/bum to lets say just a climber/bum (for now). It all started about three weeks after i set camp in the middle of the bush here in the Blue Mountains. Just another normal day out at the crag was followed by a nice hot shower and awesome dinner, at a very comfortable and welcoming home. Now that doesnt sound like the life a homeless dirt bag climber does it...? NO!! Well this is all thanks to a very nice family that we met at the crag after watching there daughter cruse up some very impressive climbs on Wave Wall. We got chatting and later found out that she was only 8 years old and had just ticked her first 27/7c!!!! WHAT!!! Her name is Angelina Scarth-Johnson, check her out on the classic www.8a.nu .<br /><br />After sharing stories they soon began to feel bad for us and probably couldn't stand the smell of us for much longer so soon invited us over for a warm shower and some dinner. This then led to us house sitting for them over a weekend, and then not to long after that, we were living there. In there barn was a huge upstairs room with a pool table, power and eventually a makeshift bed topping off what has felt like a five star accommodation to me.&nbsp; <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N3-CbPu3elg/Ufd7rByIdBI/AAAAAAAAAUI/OSTddNjvdDE/s1600/P5040001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N3-CbPu3elg/Ufd7rByIdBI/AAAAAAAAAUI/OSTddNjvdDE/s640/P5040001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp; Our home for the past four months!! Thanks a lot to the Scarth-Johnson Family!!<br /><br />Other than living in a nice warm house and having amazing meals cooked for every night i have also been doing a bit of Rock Climbing surprisingly. Nice clear but cool sunny days have allowed for many amazing days out climbing here in the bluies. I have spent most of my time just climbing locally here in the Glen ticking off many awesome climbs. One of my favorite climbs was a route called 'Inertia', a steep roof climb with awesome 360 degrees campusing moves on good pockets! Its one of those climbs that the first attempt on it feels desperate but once you figure it out it goes smoothly on the second! It made me feel strong at least :) (not much of a campusing kind of a guy)<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aQgQ9cXIYCE/UfeHvEx-6iI/AAAAAAAAAUY/ZhGd5cipX5M/s1600/P6040004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aQgQ9cXIYCE/UfeHvEx-6iI/AAAAAAAAAUY/ZhGd5cipX5M/s640/P6040004.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Tripe (30/8a+)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo:M Jackson<br /><br />Nothing to different has happened on this trip to the mountains compared to my previous visits so i wont bother boring you with the same old stories etc so ill cut to the chase…<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oY90HBJVcs8/UgdBqSJkLVI/AAAAAAAAAUo/M1Vws_tb21c/s1600/P5020065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oY90HBJVcs8/UgdBqSJkLVI/AAAAAAAAAUo/M1Vws_tb21c/s640/P5020065.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Search And Destroy 32/8b+&nbsp; Photo: Melanie Jackson<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p98wSltDA_I/UgdLGHk5DxI/AAAAAAAAAU4/5zY0jqzBeX4/s1600/IMG_5315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p98wSltDA_I/UgdLGHk5DxI/AAAAAAAAAU4/5zY0jqzBeX4/s640/IMG_5315.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Double Adapter 31/8b&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo:Roman Hofmann<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rcpzrVVSE9w/UggXI28CExI/AAAAAAAAAVI/pPFZ_SDSNdU/s1600/IMG_5338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rcpzrVVSE9w/UggXI28CExI/AAAAAAAAAVI/pPFZ_SDSNdU/s640/IMG_5338.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Better Than Life 32/8b+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Roman Hofmann<br /><br />Other than climbing many awesome routes here in the mountains i have had the chance to explore some of the nearby bouldering spots also. All thanks to a good friend and fellow kiwi crusher Roman Hofmann. Winter is the best time for bouldering here so i took the opportunity of having a car and a guide to check them out and see if i could pull my self up some boulders. First up were the hidden sand stone blocks of sydney. Hidden in unlikely areas of suburban sydney behind peoples houses were some really nice and hard problems. One of my favorite areas was called 'The Frontline', an area with many rounded sandstone blocks with splatters of chalk everywhere you look. A problem that stands out as one of the best here would be "L' Homme Obu" (V11) A Fred Nicole line i believe with some big moves on perfect rounded sloppy edges through the cave. Unfortunately after having a really good first day, by the time we got to this problem i was already pretty tired so we decided to climb the first have of the problem which is given V8 and then the second half which is V9. Having done these pretty quickly i decided to put my last bit of energy into the link. After a few attempts and a lot of skin i had to walk away empty handed after giving it all i had and falling off with my hand in the finishing jug…<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVnzJEctXYQ/UggafTeJRBI/AAAAAAAAAVY/LKePLGlXjZg/s1600/_dsc8958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVnzJEctXYQ/UggafTeJRBI/AAAAAAAAAVY/LKePLGlXjZg/s640/_dsc8958.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp; &nbsp; Wiz Fineron on L'homme Obu V11/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Eddie Fawk<br /><br />It was disappointing at the time but not for too long as we returned a few days later and it went pretty easily first go!<br /><br />Another bouldering spot i checked out was a more local area called XXXX (4 X). A good little bouldering area with good rock and a fare amount of hard problems! After a few warm up problems, i was drawn to this very steep arete with what looked like some very nice moves on awesome blue mountains rock. I was given the rundown of the beta and quickly became super psyched. It looked pretty hard but i had a good feeling about it so i decided i would give it a good flash attempt. After chalking it all up i quickly put my shoes on (except it wasn't so quick as there lace ups…) and got on it! It all went pretty smoothly up an till the last move where i found my self blowing chunks with my fingers wrapped over a very small and sharp crimp, trying to find the power to go for the last move. After a couple of failed slaps for the hold i managed to stay holding on and improvised, cutting loose and throwing a heel hook high above my hand giving me that little extra strength to reach the hold before easy climbing to the top. Desperate! <br /><br />Standing on top of the boulder in the dark, i felt exhausted. I have never really tried that hard i think... I was soon told that i had just become the first New Zealander to have flashed a V11/8a boulder!!It was pretty exciting but i was so tired it took a while to sink in. Super stoked but smashed.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3QF2fLxaaoQ/UgggKpTZKSI/AAAAAAAAAVo/yGrH_BGzRSM/s1600/635074963201785874_photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3QF2fLxaaoQ/UgggKpTZKSI/AAAAAAAAAVo/yGrH_BGzRSM/s640/635074963201785874_photo.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron Flashes Garths Arete V11/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Roman Hofmann<br /><br />I hadn't done to much night climbing before, so maybe that made it seem more exciting. :)<br /><br />That all pretty much raps up whats been happening here in the Blue Mountains so hope you enjoyed it!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_4A8VJ2l4aM/UggnljmFDVI/AAAAAAAAAV4/XwwPP26mKPk/s1600/Wiz+Moonshadow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="406" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_4A8VJ2l4aM/UggnljmFDVI/AAAAAAAAAV4/XwwPP26mKPk/s640/Wiz+Moonshadow.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Moonshadow 33/8c&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Roman Hofmann<br /><br />Here is the tick list :<br />&gt;TuTu Sullied Flesh 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &gt;Cheesemonster 30/8a+ (2nd go) Nowra<br />&gt;Tsunami 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &gt;Tripe 30/8a+<br />&gt;August 1914 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &gt;Point break 31/8b<br />&gt;Middle Earth 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &gt; Pooferator 31/8b<br />&gt;Fabricator 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &gt;Double Adaptor 31/8b<br />&gt;Cagney n Lacey 29/8a&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &gt;Search And Destroy 32/8B+<br />&gt;Microwave 30/8a+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &gt;Better Than Life 32/8b+<br />&gt;Temptation 30/8a+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &gt;Moonshadow 33/8c<br />&gt;Inertia 30/8a+ (2nd go)<br /><br />Next up was a fun but wet three week bouldering trip to the Grampians. It all started off great with two weeks of awesome accommodation (Thanks again to the Scarth-Johnson Family), great weather, and lots of good climbing. I had been to the Grampians before but only for sport climbing so i was excited to change it up a little and check out the bouldering. I had heard its meant to be pretty good there... ;)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IMA-t1X094Q/UgpEeN_J-tI/AAAAAAAAAWI/u5A-Mh2-Am4/s1600/P7160021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IMA-t1X094Q/UgpEeN_J-tI/AAAAAAAAAWI/u5A-Mh2-Am4/s640/P7160021.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp; &nbsp; Hiding from the rain at the 'mostly dry' Kindergarten &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Photo: Melanie Jackson&nbsp; <br /><br />We spent most of our time climbing in areas such as The Cave, Andersons, and the Kindergarten, as these are the areas with most worth while lines to do. I have to say tho, i did find it a little hard bouldering when there was world class route climbing just around the corner! Especially at Kindergarten as you can practicly see Taipan Wall. Beautiful!<br />Some good bouldering was done for the first ten days or so, ticking off many amazing problems and also seeing some pretty hard stuff go down, as the presence from Team America and more, shook the Grampians with their pure strength combined with the odd tantrum over the bad winter weather. :)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WUP6DvVfaZY/Uhd9IoOpcxI/AAAAAAAAAWY/hRfSvx7xFOM/s1600/projectwall2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">&nbsp; <img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WUP6DvVfaZY/Uhd9IoOpcxI/AAAAAAAAAWY/hRfSvx7xFOM/s640/projectwall2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on Last Action Hiro V12.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Aureliano Ramella<br /><br />Unfortunately our luxury accommodation soon came to an end as the rest of our new 'family' left for home, so we unpacked the tent and got back in to dirt bag mode!&nbsp; An extra ten days of climbing was the plan but after the first night in the tent there had already been a lot of rain and word was out that there was more to come! There sure was!!! Every day until our very last i don't think it stopped raining once so many morning were spent sulking in the warm nearby cafe. The delicious brownies definitely cheers us up tho! We did notice a pattern in the weather tho as at about 8pm or so the weather would clear and we could see the stars again. This gave us enough time to have a couple of quick night session at the Kindergarten making us feel a little happier about our selves as we had managed to pull down on some semi dry rock.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pslNgzviIdQ/UheBg_krfXI/AAAAAAAAAWk/z3TqWPKWIr4/s1600/P7160023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pslNgzviIdQ/UheBg_krfXI/AAAAAAAAAWk/z3TqWPKWIr4/s640/P7160023.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on So You Think You Can Dance V11. Photo: Melanie Jackson<br /><br />Luckily the weather gods chose to be nice to us for once as on our very last day climbing it cleared up and a fare bit of wind was around which meant most things dried up pretty quick. We took advantage of this dry rock and started off back at the Kindergarten. Of course this was one of the only dry areas, meaning almost every climber around was there. This made the atmosphere pretty cool.<br />I had been trying a climb called So You Think You Can Dance for a few days now and had got pretty close but was running out of power up high. My knees were getting trashed from all the knee bars so i had to walk away from it for a while. Luckily a friend had brought his knee pad so i got psyched for it again and began trying. After a few tries i managed to do it, feeling pretty happy as it was our last day.<br />I then continued the psyche by quickly working out all the moves on the long and powerful problem 'Point And Shoot'. After a quick brake and refuel, i jumped back on it managing to climb it pretty smoothly, giving me my second V11/8a boulder of the day. I was feeling strong! Petty it was the last day.<br /><br />Grampians Ticklist:<br />Etch-a-Scetch V11/8a<br />Dead Cant Dance V11/8a<br />So You Think You Can Dance V11/8a<br />Point And Shoot V11/8a<br />Last Action Hiro V12/8a+<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hgvwgpPz9u0/UheJoDXNuqI/AAAAAAAAAW0/3w7u4FGQayg/s1600/DSC_0458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hgvwgpPz9u0/UheJoDXNuqI/AAAAAAAAAW0/3w7u4FGQayg/s640/DSC_0458.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />I am now on the other side of the world adapting to the very long and pumpy sport routes of Ceuse, France. It is the start of my travels here in Europe so i am very excited to check out the amazing climbing areas it has to offer. Thinking Spain next!<br />Living the dream!<br /><br />If you have made it this far i congratulate you! Hope you enjoyed it and didnt get to bored. :)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-9318487669291503332013-04-13T22:15:00.001-07:002013-04-13T22:15:58.842-07:00The US of A! PART 2 - Bishop.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iK2i9lqg28s/UV0qL0LVIEI/AAAAAAAAASk/OFqanbTO4-Y/s1600/IMG_5136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>During our time in Hueco we had met and made friends with many people and i noticed that they all had at least one thing in common apart from climbing. They all said that during our time in the US we had to make it out to Bishop. Another world class bouldering spot known for its high balls and many say it is better than Hueco... (this may be judged on the fact it has no rules etc). I always had it the back of my head that during our trip we might be lucky enough to go check out other areas and it was coming close to the end of our time in the states and the thought of being able to get to anywhere else had not even crossed our minds. We felt like tiny little ants being in the land of America with no form of transport so the thought of traveling across states was madness!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DA_3VA7bIDk/UVzlEyQsWwI/AAAAAAAAARg/UvOkROIw82w/s1600/IMG_1943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DA_3VA7bIDk/UVzlEyQsWwI/AAAAAAAAARg/UvOkROIw82w/s640/IMG_1943.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp; The Buttermilks, Bishop.<br /><br />This all changed after receiving a very unexpected but exciting message via 'The Facebook'. It was from a very good friend of ours who we had met earlier on in our trip in Hueco, his name was Jeremy. He said that he had come up with an idea on how to get our poor asses to bishop by simply paying for mine and Isaac's flight to Oakland then he would drive us up to Bishop and climb with us every weekend. How rad is that!!! We both were very excited about this offer and after a bit of thinking (thinking is bad for you) we could not think of a reason not to so jumped at the opportunity and began organizing. It was hard leaving Hueco as it had been our home for the past two months and we had made many great friends but we had heard a lot about Bishop and felt like a change in scenery would really do good for our climbing.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1qvONbw3T2E/UVzrqHWNdlI/AAAAAAAAARw/BXTS68F4W6Q/s1600/IMG_2151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1qvONbw3T2E/UVzrqHWNdlI/AAAAAAAAARw/BXTS68F4W6Q/s640/IMG_2151.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron enjoying the classics of the Buttermilk's. Awesome V5 arete.<br /><br />By the time we arrived in Bishop we had about just over two weeks an till our flight left for home so we immediately began ticking off some of the classics. On our first day Jeremy showed us around some great problems and we ended up sending three V9s including my first flash of the grade which was Soul Slinger. The other two were called Twin Cracks and The Fall Guy. I really enjoyed the climbing style here as it was a lot about technique and not so much power which matched my style well. It was crazy seeing all this chalk on what looked like nothing of a hold but as we learned during our time there if you get your body in to the right position and pull/push on the hold in the right direction you would be able to hold on to what looks like nothing. This is due to the amazing friction here in Bishop. Most of the time it is your friend but don't get me wrong, it will attack!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua-IRQtC_28/UVzzm9tOUEI/AAAAAAAAASA/TJ1sIugSr5U/s1600/IMG_1948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua-IRQtC_28/UVzzm9tOUEI/AAAAAAAAASA/TJ1sIugSr5U/s640/IMG_1948.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Rosses finger after sliding out of the top jug of the classic Seven Spanish Angels (V6)<br /><br />After spending a few days running around doing some of the classics we decided to have a crack at some of the problems on our tick-list. First up was Evilution V11. An awesome high ball classic on one of the largest boulders iv ever seen. Unfortunately i was shut down quicker than expected and after many attempts i still couldn't do the first move. I found this a little frustrating but later found out that the same move stumps many people which made feel a little better but i was still determined to return and&nbsp; make some progress on it. Isaac on the other hand was doing real well. Sticking the first move consistently and getting high enough to get scared. We returned a few times and he was doing good but a combination of hard moves and fear stumped him a few moves higher. Me, i was still stuck on the bloody first move.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbiVGBJKSio/UV0fK8jzNnI/AAAAAAAAASQ/gbCGaOXyNug/s1600/IMG_2111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbiVGBJKSio/UV0fK8jzNnI/AAAAAAAAASQ/gbCGaOXyNug/s640/IMG_2111.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron working the moves on the classic 'The Mandala V12'<br /><br />Next up was 'The Mandala' one of the most beautiful lines i have ever seen and i would do anything to return and do this problem. Again the first move was really hard but i managed to get through it eventually and began working on the moves higher up. After a few working sessions we had made some good progress with only the last long move towards the top to go and i felt like it could definitely go but needed some work. This is when we began to notice how tired we were mentally after going three months straight projecting problem after problem. Standing beneath one of the most iconic boulder problems ever and were struggling to find that extra psyche that we needed. What was going on? After three months of solid hard bouldering we found our selves hit rock bottom with no mental or physical strength needed to project hard boulder problems. After a long and well thought decision we decided to take a step back and set our selves a goal. To try and do 30 or more boulder problems above grade V6 in the ten days or so climbing in Bishop. This was also good as i needed one more V10 to achieve my goal of 10 V10s.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iK2i9lqg28s/UV0qL0LVIEI/AAAAAAAAASk/OFqanbTO4-Y/s1600/IMG_5136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iK2i9lqg28s/UV0qL0LVIEI/AAAAAAAAASk/OFqanbTO4-Y/s640/IMG_5136.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on Sharma Traverse V10, Bishop.<br /><br />We spent our last five or so days climbing all day and almost everyday, jumping on anything that looked fun and with not a worry in the world about weather we sent it or not. Doing this we felt much happier and felt like we climbed much better with out any pressure. During my last three days climbing i ended doing five more V10s starting with Redrum sit (Happys) then Acid Wash (also in the happys). The following day we returned back to the freezing cold Buttermilks and i managed to push through the pain and send Bubba Gump which i was happy about but couldn't even think about climbing something else as my fingers were so sore.<br />Our trip was just about over so after packing up we drove down to the Sad boulders for our last few ours of climbing in the states. I enjoyed the Happy and Sad boulders but i have to say they are nothing compared to the Buttermilks.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v3NuB3QyNKw/UWNbbq8rtBI/AAAAAAAAASw/erpl8IFpf-I/s1600/IMG_5267_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v3NuB3QyNKw/UWNbbq8rtBI/AAAAAAAAASw/erpl8IFpf-I/s640/IMG_5267_2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron enjoying the classic V5 at the Sad boulders on the last day.<br /><br />We spent most of our day in the Ice Caves trying fun problem called Beefcake V10 which started off feeling really hard but after a while working it out it i finally got it. The hardest bit was trying not to dab on the ground and on the wall behind me. This secured my 30 boulders above V6 but i carried on climbing for the rest of the day aiming to have no skin left by the time we left. I have always liked the feeling of leaving an area knowing that you gave it all you had.<br />I then jumped on this problem called Aquatic Hitchhiker, another V10 on the other side of the Ice Cave. It was a very short problem with a really high heel hook at the start, it looked fun so i went for it. A few seconds later i was at the top... "What the....?" "flash?" really...? This was my first V10 flash but i still couldn't understand how... I ended up jumping back on it to show the beta and managed to do it again straight away... Just one of those problems i guess.<br /><br />We spent the final few days of our time in the states sprawled across Jeremy's couch/pads, oh and we also did a little of the tourist stuff too. :) <br /><br />Full ticklist of our short time here in Bishop.<br />&gt;The Fall Guy V9<br />&gt;Soul Slinger V9 (Flash)<br />&gt;Twin Cracks V9<br />&gt;Bubba Gump V10<br />&gt;Beefcake v10<br />&gt;Aquatic Hitchhiker V10 (Flash)<br />&gt;Acid Wash V10<br />&gt;Redrum Sit V10<br />&gt;Sharma Traverse V10<br /><br />Just like to say another huge thanks to Jeremy for all his help during our time here, it really made our trip. :) I am sure we will run in to each other somewhere down the line.<br /><br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-52079094941127225912013-03-22T17:31:00.003-07:002013-03-26T20:01:25.497-07:00The US OF A Part 1! Hueco Tanks Again i find my self sitting at home trying to come to grips with 'the normal' life again. What is normal? Having showers everyday, going to work.... That just sounds boring. This time after spending three months living in a tent and only having the odd shower, i decided that i am not 'normal'. I like going weeks without showering, living in the dirt, eating pasta and rice every night. At least i get to travel the world doing what i love, climbing in the most amazing areas in the world.<br />I mean check this place out!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LEA_o0i_nSk/UUzZiIHaFvI/AAAAAAAAAPg/oc1yttb5mng/s1600/IMG_2064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LEA_o0i_nSk/UUzZiIHaFvI/AAAAAAAAAPg/oc1yttb5mng/s640/IMG_2064.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;The Buttermilks main area, Bishop.<br /><br />After a weekend out climbing and talking to some people, after a spur of the moment decision i found myself booking my flights to the US. I was off on a bouldering trip. 3 months in the States with Isaac Buckley,&nbsp; Chase Gatland and later Elena! We were heading to one of Americas and the worlds best bouldering spots, Hueco Tanks.This was going to be only my second bouldering trip in the past few&nbsp; years so i was super excited to see how it went.<br /><br />Driving from El Paso out in to the desert to Hueco, i felt like we were driving in to the middle of nowhere. Endless flat deserted land with a fair bit of trash scattered around. Driving along this road you would never expect to be going climbing anywhere until you turn this one corner and a huge pile of red boulders appear on the horizon. Surrounded by sandy hills with a never-ending cliff band stretching for as far as the eye can see, my finger tips began to sweat and i was ready for a hard few months of bouldering. "Hueco Tanks here we come" came rushing through my mind.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IxAbt4ge_8E/UUzb_fg_CHI/AAAAAAAAAPo/zQWbSUHwFDM/s1600/IMG_1840+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IxAbt4ge_8E/UUzb_fg_CHI/AAAAAAAAAPo/zQWbSUHwFDM/s640/IMG_1840+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>The view from West Mountain looking back at North Mountain and beyond. <br /><br />The climbing got off to a good start, with all three of us running around ticking off many Hueco classics, topping it off with a good send of Loaded With Power V10 on my first day. This gave me good confidence as i had never really bouldered this hard before so i was very excited to see what the future could hold. <br /><br />I really enjoyed the style of climbing in Hueco as i have always been a big fan of crimps and there was definitely no shortage of them. Throughout the trip i would find myself wrapping that sneaky thumb on top of the index finger and really locking down hard on those sharp little crimpers. Unfortunately i did not win the battle as i would find out after a few days climbing in a row that the rock would leave a line of brused skin on every tip, which made crimping down on anything fairly painful. This was pretty easy to overcome as we found that resting was very important, not only because of skin issues but also due to the powerful style of Hueco making our bodies feel fairly tired all over. This made us quickly realize that three days on, one day off was too much so we ended up cutting it down to mostly two days on, one day off. I think some of us felt it more than others and one morning Isaac decided to prove this. After a good stretch he suddenly blacked out for a few seconds and fell face first on to the concrete floor.&nbsp; The scratched face didnt faze him too much as it just blended in to his filthy climber look. :) <br /><br /><span id="goog_810597296"></span><span id="goog_810597297"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5p9lsE-M8No/UUzkVmQ1uEI/AAAAAAAAAPw/rBas4LnoWOQ/s1600/photo-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5p9lsE-M8No/UUzkVmQ1uEI/AAAAAAAAAPw/rBas4LnoWOQ/s640/photo-1.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>Isaac strapped down tight for the long ride to El Paso's Hospital.<br /><br />Dont worry he was okay! After a long day-trip to the Hospital he came back to camp later that day with the diagnostis of 'Dehydration'. :) This secured a good rest day or two!<br />This was the first of our Hueco Tanks Dilemmas... <br /><br />Close to about two weeks in to the trip we came across an awesome cave problem with big moves between beautiful edges called Diaphanous Sea graded around V12. We all im,mediately became very excited and got to work. After about an hours work puzzling the moves together we all seemed pretty thrashed and began to pack up. Chase decided to go for one last burn and managed to crush his way to the top. Making it the first of the grade for him. Watching this got me super psyched and i had to give it one last burn. I quickly put my shoes back on and crawled to the back of the cave. Chase had just started the send train, so i had to take the opportunity to jump on it. Before long, i was at the top.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I was super excited to have done the problem and also secured my spot on the 'send train'... :) This was my first V12.(?)&nbsp; Check out the video a good friend of ours made.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="https://vimeo.com/57653635" rel="nofollow" target="">https://vimeo.com/57653635</a><br /><br />For the rest of our trip in Hueco we would have many up and down spells. We would sometimes go weeks without sending any of our projects and would begin to wonder if we were getting weaker trying the same hard move over and over. When this did happen we would take a few days off 'hard projecting' and spend our days running around the mountain climbing many problems between the V5 to V8 range. These kind of days would sometimes turn out to be some of our best days climbing. We really enjoyed the feeling of climbing whatever you want and having no pressure to send it or not and because of this we felt like we climbed much better on these days.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JXUiIOnrJtI/UU6RUPMBmhI/AAAAAAAAAQA/z9NzsATbfb8/s1600/IMG_4226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JXUiIOnrJtI/UU6RUPMBmhI/AAAAAAAAAQA/z9NzsATbfb8/s640/IMG_4226.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>&nbsp;Isaac enjoying the classic high ball of Hueco Tanks. The Maiden V0 (skull and cross bones!!!)<br /><br />We found that having days like this was a useful strategy as it was getting us stronger! A rest day later we would return to our projects and if not send have good links. The goal was to send 10 V10s during our time away so i spent a lot of my time scouting out the good ones including Free Willy, Mojo, Full service and many more! check out full tick list at http://www.8a.nu/ <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y__3Itt_Ym8/UU6X9jIqC8I/AAAAAAAAAQQ/RppznDTvesU/s1600/IMG_3904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y__3Itt_Ym8/UU6X9jIqC8I/AAAAAAAAAQQ/RppznDTvesU/s640/IMG_3904.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on Full Service V10, East Mountain, Hueco Tanks.<br /><br />Hueco Tanks dilemma number two:<br />Since moving camp to the Rock Ranch, when walking to the park we had been taking an awesome short cut which involved jumping a fence... But one day it became a not so awesome choice. Up&nbsp; until New Years Day it had worked perfectly making the every day walk to the office 30 minutes instead of an hour or more....But on New Years day there were many people lining up at the gate (we didnt think about this of course..) Me and Isaac rolled on in to the office and asked to sign in to North. But what we didnt know was that they had not started letting people in yet so the lady replied "How did you guys get in here...? there is a huge line back at the gate...? The next thing we know, the State Park Police women was on our case and told us to get in to the back of her truck. As she was driving us out of the park back to our camp we noticed a large machine gun standing proudly between the two front seats...???<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-HuvSZbxfM/UU6goqFbH2I/AAAAAAAAAQY/PoNY8rqggws/s1600/IMG_1794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-HuvSZbxfM/UU6goqFbH2I/AAAAAAAAAQY/PoNY8rqggws/s640/IMG_1794.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>My citation ticket. lucky we were from NZ.<br /><br />After a long wait, while the officer wrote our tickets we finally heard our consequence. The officer said that luckily for us, since we were young and from NZ she was not going to arrest us and take us to court but instead she banned us from the park for three days. Apparently they take trespassing very serious in America. I guess this was better than going to court etc but three whole days of sitting around camp in the middle of the desert and no climbing was going to turn us insane! Lucky we had the foosball table. Unfortunately three days rest turned in to 5 as the following two days after the ban was over it snowed.&nbsp; By this time we were fairly good at foosball.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KkkPVb9ZxwU/UU-TarZcj9I/AAAAAAAAAQo/0vKf0ONPbSg/s1600/IMG_1804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KkkPVb9ZxwU/UU-TarZcj9I/AAAAAAAAAQo/0vKf0ONPbSg/s640/IMG_1804.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />Mine and Isaacs home... :)<br /><br />I hate to say it but the long rest was pretty damn good for us as we returned with way more psyche and feeling much stronger than before.&nbsp; I had been trying an awesome problem called Barefoot On Sacred Ground. An awesome arete problem topping out fairly high up the classic Sea Spot Run. I had been having trouble with the last hard move to the hueco, not being able to hold the swing so i managed to find another high sneaky heel hook locking me in making the move completely static. I fond that this was pretty damn hard to do from the bottom as i was almost completely out of power by that stage but after a good rest day i came back fresh and climbed to the top. Completing this problem felt great as it felt like my hardest yet. This was my second problem graded V12.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-whs-3aiFoJo/UU-Z3iQPWMI/AAAAAAAAAQw/4jMiQXHq81w/s1600/IMG_1875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-whs-3aiFoJo/UU-Z3iQPWMI/AAAAAAAAAQw/4jMiQXHq81w/s640/IMG_1875.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on Crimping Christ On The Cross (V10)&nbsp; East mountain, Hueco Tanks.<br /><br />Whilst staying at the rock ranch we had met many awesome people and made lots of friends and they helped us out a lot so we are hugely grateful for that. Especially our good friend Kwang. The man with the brains and also a car. He became our taxi driver and also a good climbing partner which was awesome but of course, who ever hangs out with us normally got in trouble.<br />This leads us to our third and final Hueco Tanks dilemma before we decided to scarper off to Bishop.<br /><br />From the office to the main parking lot is not far and is about a 30 second drive. After signing in to North Mountain me and Isaac decided to jump on to the back of Kwangs truck as the back was packed full of our pads. We drove to the parking lot and parked up ready for a good days climbing and BOOOM she was there "Who is the driver of this car!!??" We all looked at each other... "where the hell did she come from?" After a long discussion Kwang was given a fine of $560 for reckless driving and almost arrested for 'child endangerment' ! WOW! A few weeks later he went to court and managed to reduce the fine to $100 with no reckless driving&nbsp; offence. All this effort all because of two rat bag kiwis...&nbsp; Soon after we received an amazing offer to go to Bishop in about a weeks time so we thought we better get away from all the rules before we end up in jail... :)<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKC-A48WiIo/UVJRiPX0nAI/AAAAAAAAARA/nIHWnHaUlVc/s1600/DSC_0068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKC-A48WiIo/UVJRiPX0nAI/AAAAAAAAARA/nIHWnHaUlVc/s640/DSC_0068.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>My dream problem!!! Wiz fineron working on Slashface V13 (the crux move) East Mountain, Hueco Tanks.<br /><br />Knowing that we were leaving soon meant that we did not have long to try and achieve our goals and for me it came down to my final three days. We had decided to splash out a bit and pay for more guided tours as we had unfinished business on the other mountains. Three days to go and three problems to do.&nbsp; First up was Full Service V10. It was my second day working and went fairly quickly after making some minor adjustments to my betta. Later that day i had the chance to finally have a play on my dream problem Slashface. A beautiful line through some really small crimpers following a thin horizontal crack. I had the opportunity to play on it with really nice guy called Alex Megos (He has now just done the worlds first 9a onsight...) This got me really psyched as i was trying one of the coolest looking problems in Hueco and to be climbing it with some one so strong. After about 45 minitues of work i had managed to pull all the moves and even linking a few. I was super happy and really thought that it could be possible. I had to leave it for that day as it was getting dark but was super excited to return ASAP.<br />The next day we were back on north mountain and there was one problem i really wanted to return to. One called Tequila Sunrise (V12). I had done the problem earlier on in the trip but from a higher start (There is multiple starts to this problem) but it just didnt feel right to claim as i knew that there was a lower and more logical start. I returned and managed to pull it off first time that day and was super excited. The extra move at the start definitely made it feel harder. This was my third and final V12 of the trip. :)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_MofhLy8u_g/UVJY00LSDiI/AAAAAAAAARM/1zNJumTAddo/s1600/DSC_0083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_MofhLy8u_g/UVJY00LSDiI/AAAAAAAAARM/1zNJumTAddo/s640/DSC_0083.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Chase sending Sunshine (v11) on mine and Isaacs last day in Hueco.<br /><br />One Day left and one to go. It was our last day and i really wanted to go back to Slashface for one more chance. Unfortunately it was not the happy ending i wanted as three days on in Hueco is not the best and i was thrashed. I still gave it a few really good goes but had to make the decision to leave it till next time. It was hard to accept that i had run out of time on it but it was good in a way as it meant that i definitely had something to look forward to when i return.<br /><br />My Overall ticklist of my time in Hueco Tanks!: (V10 and above) <br /><br />&gt;Loaded With Power V10 (first day)<br />&gt;Free Willy V10<br />&gt;Theater Of The Absurd V10<br />&gt;Flower Power V10 (first go after sending Purple Flowers) <br />&gt;Mojo V10<br />&gt;The Hand V10<br />&gt;Fuzzy Turkey V10<br />&gt;Crimping Christ On The Cross V10<br />&gt;Full Service V10<br />&gt; Diaphanous Sea V12<br />&gt;Barefoot On Sacred Ground V12<br />&gt;Tequila Sunrise V12<br /><br />Just like to say another huge thanks to all those who helped us during our time in Hueco! It really made our trip. :)<br /><br />We are currently working on putting together a little film of our sends so stay tuned for that and part 2 <br />(Bishop) will be up soon.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-26217815058493745992012-11-27T00:32:00.000-08:002012-11-27T14:11:17.353-08:00Mount Arapiles round 2The trip got off to a good start as I arrived at the airport, handed in my itinerary and the lady says, "Im sorry sir but this ticket is for yesterdays flight"..... Yes thats right, I arrived at the airport a day later than I should have. Great.<br />After a good hard training cycle on the home woody my body felt ready to return to Mount Arapiles and face its unique funkiness that had beaten me, the last time. Feeling stronger than ever and super psyched I arrived back at the campground of 'The Gums', where I was to live for at least the next three weeks. I had given myself just over three weeks to achieve only one major goal. It was to climb 'Punks In The Gym' (32/8b+). A major classic put up by legendary <span class="st">Wolfgang Güllich</span> in 1985. The worlds first 32/8b+. I had tried this climb a few times on my previous trip in the winter but was forced to leave with it unfinished. It was hard to handle at the time but I guess it was a good thing in a way as it got me super psyched to train extra hard and return as soon as possible. I must have done something right because this time, on my second day climbing and second or third (can't remember) shot of the day it was over. I had done Punks In the Gym. Becoming the youngest person and third kiwi or first Welsh to do so :) This was me first 32/8B+!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FBo07B_Xqh0/UKxEFTp20iI/AAAAAAAAALQ/byhPJ9EAA1I/s1600/Screen+shot+2012-11-21+at+3.58.38+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">Rock and Ice news feed!<img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FBo07B_Xqh0/UKxEFTp20iI/AAAAAAAAALQ/byhPJ9EAA1I/s640/Screen+shot+2012-11-21+at+3.58.38+PM.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPolxExWGXY/ULRl8naaeDI/AAAAAAAAANk/8hm5BOUf8g0/s1600/_MG_0417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPolxExWGXY/ULRl8naaeDI/AAAAAAAAANk/8hm5BOUf8g0/s640/_MG_0417.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Punks In The Gym 32/8b+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Mick Wells<br /><br />After this I didn't quite know what to do with myself. I had done it and still had 3 weeks left. Luckily enough I was among some of the best climbing in Australia so I was definitely not limited with climbs. Thousands of classic routes just out of my tent in Arapiles and just a 45 miniute drive away was the Grampians. Taipan wall!! A huge 70m tall bright orange wall in the Northern Grampians. The first time that I saw it, I just knew that this was the place for me and it was. Throughout the whole trip i spent a lot of time climbing here and absolutely loved it. One of my major highlights there was the day after climbing Punks. Everyone had talked about a climb called Serpentine. A major classic route taking a beautiful line straight up the tallest section of the cliff, I couldn't wait to get on it. The day after sending Punks I arrived at the bottom of the cliff feeling strong and super psyched and jumped straight on it. Starting with the first pitch (not many people climb this one apparently) winding its way up to the first belay point. A desparate funky introduction to Taipan Wall, so I was stoked with the Flash. An interesting pitch but fun never the less. The next pitch was the business end of the climb and probably one of the coolest looking lines I've seen. Half an hour later and all my gas drained I found myself sitting on top of Taipan wall after flashing my first 29/8a. The exciting bit was yet to come. The famous victory jump. I looked over the edge of the cliff and saw whopping loop of slack coming from my belayer. Without thinking about it too much I launched myself off the cliff and fell for way longer than I expected. I think I took an estimated fall of around 35m long and still barely touched the wall. Bloody awesome!!! :)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8jGnxRShf0s/ULAp1gDBTJI/AAAAAAAAALg/QwZ5NDoTmnY/s1600/IMG_1614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8jGnxRShf0s/ULAp1gDBTJI/AAAAAAAAALg/QwZ5NDoTmnY/s640/IMG_1614.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Taipan Wall, Northern Grampians.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mGN6gWF8Pr8/ULA1_IX6PlI/AAAAAAAAALw/qlMg76ocOmE/s1600/_DSC3492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">&nbsp;<img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mGN6gWF8Pr8/ULA1_IX6PlI/AAAAAAAAALw/qlMg76ocOmE/s640/_DSC3492.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron Flashing serpentine 29/8a Taipan Wall, Grampians. Photo: Chris Flowers<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLPMVmLwgOE/ULRm13i9P2I/AAAAAAAAANs/KNUhQsPMvCQ/s1600/VICTORY+JUMP+OFF+SERPENTINE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLPMVmLwgOE/ULRm13i9P2I/AAAAAAAAANs/KNUhQsPMvCQ/s640/VICTORY+JUMP+OFF+SERPENTINE.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron Taking the victory jump off Serpentine Photo: Chris Flowers<br /><br />Another awesome place I really enjoyed was Muline. A steep overhanging cliff in the southern Grampians, home to many amazing climbs. One climb in particular stood out called Eye Of The Tiger (29/8a). I heard that it was really good by many people and a few had mentioned that it would be a good one for me to on-sight. I only climbed hear the one time but really enjoyed it.&nbsp; After arriving at the base of the crag tired and sweaty as hell (after crawling up the access track) I glanced up and was excited to see some holds that I could actually pull down on. It was a good change from the featureless slabs of Arapiles. The main goal of the day was Eye Of The Tiger and after a few laps on the warm up climb I was all geared up and ready to go. I had decided to go for the on-sight, so I was up first. The hardest thing about doing this was planning on where to place the long quickdraws. This was important as it goes through a steep roof and then out on to a head wall and who likes rope drag! I reached the halfway point of the climb and my arms were feeling good but god dam my right leg was tired. The climb follows a slopey left curving rail forcing many right heel hooks in a row. After a few leg shakes I was ready to attack what I had thought was the crux, a long reach to a slopey gaston with some crazy toe hooks but I did not know about this method and swung my feet across using a really wide left pinch (defintely not the right way). From here I hoped the hardest bit was over and I just kept my head together tick-tacking my way up the head wall (almost falling off the last move) fighting the pump. Before long i found my self clipping the chains of my first on-sight of a 29/8a 'Eye Of The Tiger'.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fA4Nblal4tE/ULRuyd7DitI/AAAAAAAAAOA/ZTsKdnGFCDI/s1600/IMG_1680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fA4Nblal4tE/ULRuyd7DitI/AAAAAAAAAOA/ZTsKdnGFCDI/s640/IMG_1680.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on-sighting Eye Of The Tiger (29/8a)<br /><br />After this my three weeks were coming to an end and I was having far too much fun living in the dirt, bin diving, and meeting many awesome people to go back so I contacted home. " Hey dad can i stay for longer..... ?" After lots of emailing i exended my flights for two weeks longer and it was definitely a good idea. This extra two weeks allowed me to finish off some projects and get lots of really good climbing done. I had been working on a climb called Snakes On A Train (32/8b+) on Taipan Wall. A new addition to the wall and was still awaiting a second ascent. After falling off at the last clip on my second go I really had to get it done (expecting to get it next shot). A few weekends later and many massive whippers (typical taipan style) it was done. I had done the second ascent and also my second 32/8b+.<br /><br />For the rest of the trip i decided to stay at Arapiles (no more trips to the Grampians) and set my targets on an unclimbed project called Somalia.<span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"> The climb is situated on the front face of the Uncle Charlies pinnacle at Mount Arapiles (Just around the corner from 'Punks In The Gym') and takes an unlikely looking line through a steep bulge before finishing up another amazing line called Ethiopia (30). </span><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">The hardest thing about doing this climb was keeping my skin at a bearable level to hold the crystally crimps (the usual story I guess) not to mention pulling down on the one pad one finger pocket! It was the first time that I had been on a climb that included a mono and was very careful on all of my attempts making sure that my fingers were still all in one piece. </span><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"> A good friend of mine, Zac Vertrees, who had been working it at the time told me to give it a go just to see how I went. So I did. Surprising my self and Zac, thanks to all the Beta from him, I managed to do all the individual moves fairly quickly (linking them was a total different story) and that was it, I was hooked. </span><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">It became a bit nerve-racking towards the final few days of the trip as it still had not been done. After a few crucial rest days it was down to the final day and good god was I nervous. I managed to keep my calm and on the third and probably final shot of the day (due to fingers reaching the point of no repair) it was done. Somalia (33/5.14b/8c) One of, if not the, hardest route in the park.</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o6AyG_wGgSk/ULR0v5t23bI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/A0Q-mLDm_Gs/s1600/wiznespaperaus1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o6AyG_wGgSk/ULR0v5t23bI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/A0Q-mLDm_Gs/s640/wiznespaperaus1.jpg" width="440" /></a></div><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">Overall tick list:</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Groovy 28/7c+</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Tyranny 29/8a (2nd go)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Wagalak 29/8a (flash)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Serpentine 29/8a (flash)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Eye Of The Tiger 29/8a (on-sight)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Snakes on A train 32/8b+ (second ascent)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Punks In The gym 32/8b+ (first 8b+)</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">&gt;Somalia 33/8c (First Ascent)</span><br /><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION">After a few weeks back home, exams done and school is finally over, I'm off to Hueco Tanks! Peace out!&nbsp;</span><br /><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G9Y_EgIFW8U/ULR1tFIcGcI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CrO9nYfJlu8/s1600/IMG_1665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G9Y_EgIFW8U/ULR1tFIcGcI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CrO9nYfJlu8/s640/IMG_1665.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><span id="ecxOLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPolxExWGXY/ULRl8naaeDI/AAAAAAAAANk/8hm5BOUf8g0/s1600/_MG_0417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-81936503354776303142012-08-19T02:16:00.002-07:002012-08-19T02:16:29.215-07:00Mount Arapiles - AustraliaAfter another boring ten week term of school i found myself on the road again psyched to go climbing. This time it was different, i wasn't heading to the Blueys or the Hill, this time&nbsp; i was flying to Melbourne! The trad climbing mecca , Mount Arapiles was meant to be just a train ride away but after almost a day of travel full of&nbsp; trains, buses and shuttles, i found myself stroaming around the campground surrounded by the beautiful long featured orange walls of the Arapiles. 'The Pines', this was going to be our home for the next two and a half weeks! I shared this with my fellow kiwi friends Mel and Irmak, and kangaroos!<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-recXlGna2CU/UC73bbUpDmI/AAAAAAAAAJs/cRMBy2k3gfM/s1600/295464_10150966920378757_1371915188_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="427" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-recXlGna2CU/UC73bbUpDmI/AAAAAAAAAJs/cRMBy2k3gfM/s640/295464_10150966920378757_1371915188_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; photo: Irmak Thompson<br /><br />The climbing here was yet a completely different and new style for us and it definitely took us a couple of days to get the hang of. The most challenging part was trusting the feet, and learning how to crack climb! I was totally not expecting to have to learn how to fist jam but almost every climb had some sort of crack involved and it had to be used. This was a very frustrating process for me but it was a good feeling when it did work. It was important for me to learn this as later in the trip i came across a climb called Ethiopia 30/8a+. After a couple of goes and getting thrown off on the last moves in the final roof trying to climb it without the crack, i had to knuckle down and learn how to jam my hands in and climb it properly. After resting my scratched and bruised hands i returned and managed to jam my way to the top!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Maf4aB3qmE/UC8CW3AXJ3I/AAAAAAAAAKI/BGaz3njVNt8/s1600/DSC07960.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Maf4aB3qmE/UC8CW3AXJ3I/AAAAAAAAAKI/BGaz3njVNt8/s640/DSC07960.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Ethiopia 30/8a+ &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Irmak Thompson<br /><br /><br />Unfortunately we did not have the best luck with the weather but we still got some good climbing in. One of the areas called 'The Flight Deck' stayed dry most of the time so we spent a lot of time up there. We enjoyed this area as we didn't have to worry about all the trad placements etc and could get some good climbing in. The climbing in this area was completely different as it actually had holds which was a good change from all the smeering. I managed to tick off a climb called Jet Lag 29/8a pretty quickly on my fourth go which i was pretty stoked with. I liked climbing at this crag as it was really my style with lots of crimps on a flat facy wall.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U4VvGsEWW5w/UC8MAgZsqtI/AAAAAAAAAKg/IVvTWndwmsM/s1600/560966_10150966932593757_919518584_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U4VvGsEWW5w/UC8MAgZsqtI/AAAAAAAAAKg/IVvTWndwmsM/s640/560966_10150966932593757_919518584_n.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sendage food: Nutella<br /><br />Every time the weather cleared and we were able to climb, i was addicted to climbing at the Pharos. The main reason for this was a climb called Punks In The Gym 32/8b+. This famous climb was a goal from the start and to finally jump on it at the start of the final week i was buzzing! I tried this every day i could from then on and was loving it. Each day went by, i was getting closer and time left was getting shorter! On the final day of the trip i found myself sitting at the bottom of the climb sulking after falling off after sticking the crux moves. I had one more awkward move to go then i just had to hold it together to the top! but no, it didnt happen and i was thrashed. My fingers were about to bleed and i had to walk away and leave it for next time. I learnt a very important lesson from this tho, not to have a sulk and throw your harness at the wall as you will end up leaving it there. Yes! i left my Harness in Australia! lucky i have connections ae.... thanks Zac. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMnNchKeC9k/UC8S1o3VfUI/AAAAAAAAAK0/QCLFA8gVSHc/s1600/545324_10150966963978757_915108410_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMnNchKeC9k/UC8S1o3VfUI/AAAAAAAAAK0/QCLFA8gVSHc/s640/545324_10150966963978757_915108410_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Punks In The Gym 32/8b+ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; photo: Melanie Jackson<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSQDpYPhnfg/UC8T4zug4HI/AAAAAAAAAK8/QfysEN72gsc/s1600/DSC07773.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSQDpYPhnfg/UC8T4zug4HI/AAAAAAAAAK8/QfysEN72gsc/s640/DSC07773.JPG" width="640" /></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Grampians!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; photo: Irmak Thompson<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>&nbsp;All in all it was a super fun trip and i will definitely be returning in the near future as i have some unfinished business. Hopefully the weather will be better next time! The faint view of the Grampians in the horizon has got me super- psyched so i will definitely spend a lot of time there!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-53005404721020460982012-05-13T03:12:00.000-07:002012-05-13T03:33:22.084-07:00Castle Hill 2012After ten weeks of good old school, i found my self back on the road again! But this time it was different. I left my rope, harness, quick-draws etc back at home and me, Pnut and Isaac were on the road heading to one of the most spectacular bouldering spots in the world, Castle Hill. <br />The trip started with a quick flight down to Christchurch then a shuttle to our home for the next two weeks, good old Cragiburn Camp site. As we heard later on in the trip, the drive through&nbsp; Arthurs Pass was meant to be one of the best drives in the country, this was not the case for us as we all ended sprawled out across the back seat sleeping for most of the way. I guess the old age is getting to us….<br />anyway we arrived at the camp site expecting to walk in to a whole bunch of climbers that we were hoping could give us a lift to the Hill later…This was also not the case for pretty much the whole trip. Lucky for Hitchhiking ae.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HCBJlBEV75g/T69qhoMmTCI/AAAAAAAAAII/fhHPxPmhqBI/s1600/IMG_1211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HCBJlBEV75g/T69qhoMmTCI/AAAAAAAAAII/fhHPxPmhqBI/s640/IMG_1211.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />We decided to live with the food that we got from a Christchurch dairy, thanks to Easter making all the super markets being closed for the next few days because we just wanted to go climbing. The first few days were super fun as we just climbed everything and anything.The style of climbing here is totally different again so it was very fun to learn as some times you find your self falling of everything due to the insanely polished foot holds. Another super interesting factor was the grassy hills. You think climbing here was fun…. sliding down the hills on your pads was a whole other story. You would even get a bit of sliding action when you fall off the problems. You think the action is over as soon as you hit the pads but no, brace your self for a fun slide down the hill. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnAWU1-JUCY/T69sJpE9NRI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/M9Ft9ZQTpIQ/s1600/IMG_1163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">&nbsp; <img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnAWU1-JUCY/T69sJpE9NRI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/M9Ft9ZQTpIQ/s640/IMG_1163.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Wiz Fineron on Snake Eyes V8<br /><br />We woke up every morning, ate our breakfast and were out on the road as quickly as possible with our thumbs out. We relied on hitchhiking everyday to get to the Hill and back&nbsp; and to be fair we had a lot of luck with that. The longest we probably had to wait was almost three hours on a quiet saturday. The only down side of this was probably the fact that we would have to stop climbing by four or five to get back on the road to get back home. This meant we would miss out on the prime climbing conditions but to be fair we were pretty thrashed by that time of the day. So it wasn't that bad.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dosqCvYS-EA/T69tfT6WHjI/AAAAAAAAAIY/Yaol3gH8k8s/s1600/IMG_1200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dosqCvYS-EA/T69tfT6WHjI/AAAAAAAAAIY/Yaol3gH8k8s/s640/IMG_1200.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Isaac and Pnut sad about Hitching in the nice cold conditions....<br /><br /><br />The climbing was amazing! Endless days of getting lost in the maze of boulders searching for that problem supposedly just just around the corner, but sometimes that corner never came. The good thing about this place was if you couldn't find the problem you're looking for you could just jump on anything around you and it is just as fun! we did a lot of out climbing mostly in Spittle Hill and Quantum field.This was mainly because we had no idea where any problems were at Flock Hill apart from the ones we remembered from the film 'Big Game'. (Sun Set Arete and Limestone Orgasm) This meant we only managed to make it up up there twice during the trip because we were too hooked on getting our projects at Spittle and Quantum. We really regretted this as on our last day we were taken up there by Jason Whitaker, who used to climb here all the time and knew a lot of the problems meaning we had our own personal guide showing us all the awesome problems. Our last day was super fun running around trying to send all these problems before having to go home, ripping our fingers to shreds in meantime.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5YvFx2NrgJw/T69wUD17sWI/AAAAAAAAAIk/hwv3S2jenQo/s1600/IMG_1273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">&nbsp;<img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5YvFx2NrgJw/T69wUD17sWI/AAAAAAAAAIk/hwv3S2jenQo/s640/IMG_1273.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Isaac on Pandemonium V7<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>My overall tick list:<br /><br />&nbsp;FLOCK HILL&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Sunset arete V8<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; psychic tea lady V8<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Captain Contact V7<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Limestone Orgasm V7<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Grand Master Flash V7<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; <br />&nbsp;&nbsp; SPITTLE HILL<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Fierce Crimpy V9<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Pandemonium V7<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Quake sit start V7<br /><br />&nbsp;&nbsp; QUANTUM FIELD <br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Snake Eyes V8<br />&nbsp;&nbsp; Pythagorus V8<br /><br />That last day at Flock Hill showed me how amazing this place was, i will definitely be spending more time there in the future. <br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-By0MJlSFAd0/T69y3BHpQ1I/AAAAAAAAAIw/tAs_-6gIf3E/s1600/IMG_1271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-By0MJlSFAd0/T69y3BHpQ1I/AAAAAAAAAIw/tAs_-6gIf3E/s640/IMG_1271.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Pendemonium V7<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Csr3QR93fI/T69zk_uKOqI/AAAAAAAAAI4/4bE_28FXaw0/s1600/IMG_1292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Csr3QR93fI/T69zk_uKOqI/AAAAAAAAAI4/4bE_28FXaw0/s640/IMG_1292.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Pythagoras V8<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09GCxKLUGK0/T6904zBt7kI/AAAAAAAAAJA/TLJeme54iVs/s1600/IMG_1425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09GCxKLUGK0/T6904zBt7kI/AAAAAAAAAJA/TLJeme54iVs/s640/IMG_1425.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Pnut on Che Guevara v8 (flash)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wP6T9PqDg_s/T69_bSnVMqI/AAAAAAAAAJM/nslkDgEj1y8/s1600/IMG_1439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wP6T9PqDg_s/T69_bSnVMqI/AAAAAAAAAJM/nslkDgEj1y8/s640/IMG_1439.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Fierce Crimpy V9<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OljGWfmeuc8/T6-DKi0VW2I/AAAAAAAAAJY/vJc1KX2vhoc/s1600/IMG_1212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OljGWfmeuc8/T6-DKi0VW2I/AAAAAAAAAJY/vJc1KX2vhoc/s640/IMG_1212.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-86_UxXT9ouI/T6-EtVElSVI/AAAAAAAAAJg/jTPffiWiXO4/s1600/IMG_1493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-86_UxXT9ouI/T6-EtVElSVI/AAAAAAAAAJg/jTPffiWiXO4/s640/IMG_1493.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Pnut on Psychic Tea Lady V8 Flock Hill<br /><br /><br />Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-5257511487403165442012-02-12T00:51:00.000-08:002012-02-12T00:51:04.511-08:00My six week Blue Mountain Climbing Trip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MC6CTGenfv8/Typcgkyq3eI/AAAAAAAAAGo/xDlcDQz8784/s1600/IMG_0507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>Six weeks in the Blue Mountains..... what a prospect! Where do i camp? what do i eat? what climbs do i try? What about the weather? I know..... Who cares, lets just get out there and do it! Everyone else's parents wanted them to stay home for christmas back here in NZ so i booked my flight and began my journey alone 2 days later! I arrived and was handed some camping gear and got pointed in the direction of the aussie bush! I set up camp and got straight in to it the next day.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MC6CTGenfv8/Typcgkyq3eI/AAAAAAAAAGo/xDlcDQz8784/s1600/IMG_0507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MC6CTGenfv8/Typcgkyq3eI/AAAAAAAAAGo/xDlcDQz8784/s400/IMG_0507.JPG" width="400" /> &nbsp;</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;For the first couple of weeks i was climbing with my good old friend and a local Blue Mountain climber Matt Norgrove! This was really good for me because he took me around to all the best spots and chucked me straight on to the best and hardest climbs there! The first things that i realised that were different from the year before when i was here was that i could reach all the moves. There was no more getting shut down on some ridiculous reachy move half way up the wall. This gave me a huge confidence boost and i was buzzing from then on!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Since i had been here before i had been to many of the spots and i had a faint idea of the climbs and craggs that i would like to spend most of my time at this time. It didnt take me to long to get used to the powerfull goey style of climbing and then i was straight in to scouting out my projects and shredding my fingers on the sharp cristaly crimps of the beautiful red blue mountain sand stone.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KABd7zAIUAE/Ty-n3ykb8nI/AAAAAAAAAGw/TAOWDAcDSGU/s1600/IMG_0759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KABd7zAIUAE/Ty-n3ykb8nI/AAAAAAAAAGw/TAOWDAcDSGU/s640/IMG_0759.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span style="font-family: Times,&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;"> Wiz Fineron on Equaliser 28/7c+/5.13a</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times,&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;">During this trip i ticked off:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times,&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;"> &gt;Equaliser 28/7c+/5.13a</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times,&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;">&gt;Hairline 2000 28/7c+/5.13a (2nd go)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times,&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;">&gt;Green Eggs And Ham 28/7c+/5.13a (2nd go)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Onion Extended 28/7c+/5.13a (flash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Dont Believe The Tripe 29/8a/5.13b</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Levitation 29/8a/5.13b</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&gt;Big Wednesday 31/8b/5.13d (second 8b)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Some time after christmas my good friend Jesse Offner came over and joined me in the bush to do this supposedly fun thing called "rock climbing", a bit unknown of in jesses world in the last year since he has been hard at work at university but of course it didnt take him long to gain the strength and power necessary and he&nbsp; began ticking some impressive climbs up to 28/7c+/5.13a.</div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-inA3RGs8izg/TzDk2tfzD2I/AAAAAAAAAG4/zWqv3DAD_Y8/s1600/IMG_0722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-inA3RGs8izg/TzDk2tfzD2I/AAAAAAAAAG4/zWqv3DAD_Y8/s640/IMG_0722.JPG" width="640" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp; Jesse Offner on Equaliser 28/7c+/5.13a</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Not to long later another good friend Adam steens known as Pnut came over and joined us. As expected it didnt take him long to adapt to the style and he also began getting an impressive ticklist with climbs up to 27/7c/5.12d. this was impressive because he only ended up having about a week of climbing due to consistant poor weather for the last week!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eEZZJMcmuOQ/TzDrblX5TkI/AAAAAAAAAHA/NeKmgM2VbnY/s1600/IMG_0675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eEZZJMcmuOQ/TzDrblX5TkI/AAAAAAAAAHA/NeKmgM2VbnY/s640/IMG_0675.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">During the trip we had many exciting adventures but the one that stands out would definitely be Dumpster Diving! With about 2 weeks to go in the trip we were shown this verry handy and awesome way of living/eating cheap. Its called help-your-self shopping. You start off helping yourself to a supermarket trolley then dive in to their main food bins and get what eva you can! Dont worry its not illegal (i think) just embarrassing, but who cares - we never going to see them again!... This made every shopping really cheap because after this we would go in to the super market and get what we didnt get out of the bin. Some of the best things that we got out of the bins were unlimited bread and some awesome chocolates called Gu.... soo good! On the way back to our bush camp we'd stop by the local backpackers and, using the security code given to us by a mate, we'd grab a quick shower. All made for a pretty cheap trip!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CIsCUXe4yns/Tzd7SkzxBrI/AAAAAAAAAHI/kW-ega18WJ8/s1600/wiz_25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CIsCUXe4yns/Tzd7SkzxBrI/AAAAAAAAAHI/kW-ega18WJ8/s640/wiz_25.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on Dont believe the tripe 29/8a/5.13b&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Photo: Harry Larkins</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XAdE_DHIEJI/Tzd7cTbwHWI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/pEpjYf73su8/s1600/IMG_0592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XAdE_DHIEJI/Tzd7cTbwHWI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/pEpjYf73su8/s640/IMG_0592.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks heaps to Five Ten and Spelean for getting these awesome new blackwings sent to me. Thanks Matt Norgrove for delivering them to the cragg.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XoSDUWnlhxQ/Tzd7e7VMG8I/AAAAAAAAAHY/pxlDxn9eWN4/s1600/wiz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XoSDUWnlhxQ/Tzd7e7VMG8I/AAAAAAAAAHY/pxlDxn9eWN4/s640/wiz.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiz Fineron on the crux move of Dont Believe The Tripe 29/8a/5.13b&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; PHOTO:Harry Larkins</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-84750173821906716562012-01-07T22:31:00.000-08:002012-01-07T22:31:48.899-08:00since last time..... Blue Mountains, Australiahello everyone!!!! still having an awesome time at the bluies, dont want to come home! (sorry dad).<br />&nbsp;Over the last week or so the weather has been pretty good apart from the odd thunder storm at night!<br />I have taken advantage of the good conditions and sent a few of my projects and found a few more of my own. One of the projects that i have sent was a really cool climb at Shipley called Equaliser, a super classic grade 28/7c+/5.13a. I remember trying this last year and finding it pretty damn hard so i was super stoked about getting it 3rd pop this time! I found another awesome project about 20 minutes walk away called Self Portrait. A really cool crimpy line that goes straight up a dark steep face!<br />this picture is from the walk out after trying self portrait until we ran out of light (after untangling Jesses new rope)<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nsUvRnplRDI/TwgLQFiC3SI/AAAAAAAAAGI/jLssCFmOGPo/s1600/IMG_0528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nsUvRnplRDI/TwgLQFiC3SI/AAAAAAAAAGI/jLssCFmOGPo/s640/IMG_0528.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />Since Jesse arrived from NZ we have been climbing loads at the Glen and Boronia point. He has been ticking off a lot of 25s really quickly! and a few 26s. We also both jumped on this climb called Wrong movements in the Glen getting it pretty quickly giving jesse his first blue mountains 27/7c/5.12d. I returned to Boronia point and quickly sent Green Eggs And Ham on my second go and immediately found my next project called Dont Believe The Tripe 29/8a/5.13b. After a few working sessions we returned to the crag on a really freezing cold day with really low clouds. Surprisingly the rock was dry so conditions were perfect and i jumped straight on it, climbing away in to the clouds and sent it first pop that day! Jesse jumped back on Green Eggs And Ham feeling more rested than last time but didnt quite have the gas for the last move, coming off the jugs at the anchors. I know how he feels.....<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CEdgejBDPc/TwgUx0JlMaI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/kcYjNfW1faQ/s1600/IMG_0514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CEdgejBDPc/TwgUx0JlMaI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/kcYjNfW1faQ/s640/IMG_0514.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Here's a picture of Jesse trying Equaliser just after I mashed my knuckles ripping a hold off Decodifier a 29/8a/5.13b just to the right.<br /><br />We have also been climbing at a crag called Logan Brae, a short steep wall with lots of 23s-25s, so perfect for training. Jesse ticking off another 25 called Doctor Stein, the crag classic. I jumped on a 28/7c+/5.13a called E.I.E.I.O but got shut down on a single move. <br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q8qpOuxHbl4/Twk1kwg7F8I/AAAAAAAAAGY/VVvUwYBIudU/s1600/IMG_0516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q8qpOuxHbl4/Twk1kwg7F8I/AAAAAAAAAGY/VVvUwYBIudU/s640/IMG_0516.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Here's a picture of me getting some training in on the short but pumpy routes at Logan Brae.<br /><br />Since Jesses arrival we have moved up in the world with our camping setup, but even combined, our cooking skills are minimal (basically living off nutella). Our campsite now boasts two tents and a tarp for a roof but still doesn't protect us from the bastard magpies!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H75h7K_nykE/Twk369yn8YI/AAAAAAAAAGg/O0l5zzhFRAw/s1600/IMG_0507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H75h7K_nykE/Twk369yn8YI/AAAAAAAAAGg/O0l5zzhFRAw/s640/IMG_0507.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />Peace out peeps! Off to a par-tay with glenda!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-47808288206658164842011-12-25T17:50:00.000-08:002011-12-29T01:01:20.660-08:00blue mountains, australia so far.........So here i am on another rest day after shredding my fingers to bits climbing on the rough but awesome blue mountain sandstone!&nbsp; This is my second long climbing trip here in the bluies and i am loving every second of it! During this first week that i have been here the weather hasn't really been the best may i say, but hey…. who cares! it hasn't stopped us from climbing. Its great over here because no matter what the weather is doing there is always crags to go to and some on to climb with, which is handy because i try to take the least amount of rest days as possible because just as any rest day, you get shit bored! But here i think it is defiantly very worth the odd rest day because it really sucks trying to bare down on those little crimps with taped up fingers….. it just dose not go well!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oZbBPmIxw2c/TvfSGVxPBgI/AAAAAAAAAF0/3va8aqRCD7Q/s1600/IMG_0484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oZbBPmIxw2c/TvfSGVxPBgI/AAAAAAAAAF0/3va8aqRCD7Q/s640/IMG_0484.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />At the moment i am camping in an awesome location&nbsp; in the middle of the Aussie bush right on top of the cliffs. I just take a 2 second walk down a little track and there is an awesome lookout point overlooking the valley, with bright orange cliffs on the side and the faint hills in the harison with the Aussie bush in the middle! looks really nice when the sun is in the right spot!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7gPebti6ZZg/TvfSmqFaqoI/AAAAAAAAAGA/AKCOiKhMhc0/s1600/IMG_0477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7gPebti6ZZg/TvfSmqFaqoI/AAAAAAAAAGA/AKCOiKhMhc0/s640/IMG_0477.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />During this week i have been climbing mostly with my good friend Matt Norgrove who lives here and is very strong! It has been really good climbing with him because he knows this place off by hart and he can show me all the really cool lines that i should jump on! We have been climbing lots at the Glen mainly because that is the place to go to when it has been raining but i have also been to Boronia crag which i think is super cool and&nbsp; have begone to line up a couple of really cool climbs there which i am super psyched to try! I jumped on this really cool climb called Green Eggs And Ham (28/ 7c+/ 5.13a) and i fell of the last move going to a big jug trying to stop my hands from opening up from pump! I was super stocked with this because last year i couldn't reach the first holds and was to week to do the first boulder problem! I was really happy to be able to do the start confidently because there are a lot of climbs that start on this same boulder problem! Cant wait to go back there when the weather isn't so wet!&nbsp; At the glen there are many super cool climbs! Mat showed me this climb called Levitation (29/8a/5.13b) which i was first really intimidated by because there are some really big moves in the first boulder problem through the roof which looked awesome but hard. Anyway after surprisingly being able to do all the moves pretty quick, i went for the send on my second shot!, and of course i ended up falling off a move at the top that&nbsp; was totally expected! It turned out to be a pretty&nbsp; hard move when on the red point, so the next day i came back and spent a little bit of time making sure it wouldn't happen again…… I ended up ticking it a couple of tries later after falling of the hard moves on the first boulder problem on the try before hand!!!&nbsp; super psyched!!!!!!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-17299822359698076322011-12-04T01:26:00.000-08:002011-12-19T16:06:58.509-08:00Petzl RocTrip China!This two week climbing trip to the Getu Valley in china was a great experience and a huge eye opener for me. The trip started with a crazy bus ride down a small windy road through a very poor but beautiful part of china. Driving in to the village i was in awe of how much rock i could see on ether side of the road, i just couldn't wait to wake up the next morning and go climbing.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZXpZeV1hts/Tts6-vRVZ4I/AAAAAAAAAEg/ETmjak4zazA/s1600/PA281026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZXpZeV1hts/Tts6-vRVZ4I/AAAAAAAAAEg/ETmjak4zazA/s320/PA281026.JPG" width="240" /></a><br /><br />Petzl Rock trip….<br /><br />The event itself had a really cool atmosphere to it! every one was so friendly and fun to be around. It was really fun at dinner and breakfast time because every one would get around the tables and talk and talk and talk. it was so cool! everyone would just listen to everyones stories.<br /><br />And the climbing was amazing…… During the first week Petzl had set up a flash contest in order to get everyone to visit as many crags as possible! During these few days i spent my time climbing at The Great Arch, The Buddha Cave and Banyangs Cave. These crags all seemed huge compared to what i am used to here in NZ. All of them consisted of many 30+ meter routes of amazing quality. Every crag during the event was packed full of climbers and photographers from all around the world and with lots of local chinese people with their cameras pointing in every direction. During the event there were also many really cool climbing movies playing on the big screen at night and often many parties which collected a decent crowd every time.<br /><br />The following week with Five Ten was just as fun. The crowds slowly disappeared but the atmosphere stayed. This next week was really great and it was fantastic fun being apart of the Five Ten team, climbing lots, taking photos and just having a wicked time! During this week i spent most of my time climbing at my favorite crag Banyangs Cave. This is because after a week of climbing at the great arch and the buddha cave, i got a bit tired of slipping and sliding off the dusty slopers and when i found the awesome long crimpy routes at banyangs cave, i just loved it and couldn't stop going there. It was really good climbing with people like Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle and all those guys and i learnt so much from them.<br /><br />During this trip i climbed some of the nicest and hardest routes that ive done! <br /><br />&gt;Calf 7c (Flash)<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br />&gt;Free Max 7c (Flash)<br /><br />&gt;Loco de noodles 7c+ (Flash)<br /><br />&gt;Going With Buddha 7c+<br /><br />&gt;Ki Di Buzz 8a<br /><br />&gt;Treblinka Pour Diego 8b<br /><br />every route that i did here were top quality and i really enjoyed them!<br /><br />I had never really done photo shoots before so it was all new for me and a huge learning experience working with the photographer Beau. He's a great guy and did an awesome job. At first I found it a bit weird having a camera always there but after taking manny photos with the locals and the photographers i began to get used to it and i began to enjoy it. it was amazing to see so many photographers super keen to hang on the end of a rope for hours on end waiting for the perfect photo.<br /><br /><br />Over this two weeks i had a ball of a time meeting all the best climbers in the world and just being a part of such a great team and such a great&nbsp; event. So thanks to Five Ten and Spelean, can't wait for the next one!<br /><br />I would also like to say a huge thank you to all my friends and family who helped me get there! i really appreciate it! :)Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-47907434756946122242011-01-22T02:53:00.000-08:002011-01-22T02:53:38.569-08:00bluies photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqkUGbvzeI/AAAAAAAAACs/VvYtImnzJ5U/s1600/P1160007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqkUGbvzeI/AAAAAAAAACs/VvYtImnzJ5U/s320/P1160007.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTql-thmMZI/AAAAAAAAACw/rx0A9_SwgNE/s1600/P1180008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTql-thmMZI/AAAAAAAAACw/rx0A9_SwgNE/s320/P1180008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqnHeJAjFI/AAAAAAAAAC0/qGJ1bLOwtRA/s1600/P1180088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqnHeJAjFI/AAAAAAAAAC0/qGJ1bLOwtRA/s320/P1180088.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqot_VPS_I/AAAAAAAAAC4/0XJj8ZSWz5k/s1600/P1210030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TTqot_VPS_I/AAAAAAAAAC4/0XJj8ZSWz5k/s320/P1210030.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-59669543425867988562011-01-22T01:24:00.000-08:002011-01-22T01:24:38.380-08:00bluies 18th,19th,21st,22ndJanuary 18th:<br />To day we went down to Porters Pass!!!<br />We warmed up on:<br />Chasing amy*** 21<br />Pussy Wallow*22<br /><br />then we did:<br />LaLa Land**** 24<br />Ken and Cory also did:<br />Escape velocity** 24<br /><br />Then the sun&nbsp; got the better pf us and we decided to give up trying to climb in the sun!<br /><br />January 19th:<br />We wake up early and it feels like my fingers are on fire due to the lack of skin on them so the best place for us to head is back to Porters Pass where the holds seem to feel more polished then the other sharp crystle crimps of the blue mountains!!<br />We warmed up on some real cool climbs:<br />First we did Spread em Baby* 22 (a real tricky corner!!)<br />then we did Cutopia*23(needs to have more stars ) such a good climb that involved hard slabby crimps mixed with sand stone foot smears and burly " turn around and run your bum off" run outs.<br />Then we moved around the corner to do some recommended climbs!<br />First up was a climb called Dragons Egg*** 23<br />We also jumped on a cool but very tricky 27 on a slab!!! We managed to dog our way up most of it but then our feet got to sore after slipping off the crazy smear patches so we pulled out....<br />We decided that was enough for the day and we went back to the house!!<br /><br />January 21st:<br />Today we woke up early and did the big long walk out to a crag called the Egg!!<br />We Warmed up on a climb called Funky Monkey *** 24( 2nd go)<br />Then we jumped on Glow***26 which ken got 2nd go and i flashed!!<br />Then i jumped on a climb called Headshot****27 which&nbsp; managed to dog my way up but the heat was creaping in fast so i couldnt give it another go!!<br /><br /><br />January 22nd:<br />ITS KENS BIRTHDAY!!!!<br />To day we&nbsp; went down to Centennial Glenn:<br />We warmed up on a few climbs that we have done befor then i jumped back on to a climb called Wrong movements ****27 but the holds are very friction dependent and the friction was not very good to day! <br />Then we moved around the corner to the main cliff and we did Earnest in Africa**25 and Nev Herrod **23<br />Then we went evan ferther around the corner for ken to give his nemesis climb one last go before the end of the trip!!He got so close&nbsp; so many times but just didnt get it in the end which was dissapointing for ken!!<br />On the way home i bot ken a cream egg for his birthday present haha!!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-51620946711151560532011-01-16T22:39:00.000-08:002011-01-16T22:39:45.781-08:00bluies 14th,5th,16th&17th of JanuaryJanuary 14th:<br />today we went to Zap cragg so ken can give pulse a go!!!!<br />He&nbsp; pulled on to try and link the whole crux and snapped a crushal hold off!!!!<br />He was gutted!!!!<br />After that he was a bit sad so we left and went to Bardons lookout.<br />i finally got a climb called:<br />The way of all flesh*****28!<br />Then we went to Boronia point for ken to try:<br />Green Eggs And Ham****28<br />But Ken wasnt in the in the mood to try hard after breaking the hold on the other climb!!!haha<br /><br />January 15th:<br />Today we went to Diamond Falls for the first time!!!!<br />It was realy cool but most of it was wet from the showers the day before!<br />we tried lots of cool stuff but got spanked on most of the harder stuff there but it was a realy cool place!!!<br /><br />January 16th:<br />Today we went back to a place called Gateway!!<br />After a long warm up i jumped on my project a few times and finally managed to get it!!!<br />the climb is called:<br />Gateway* 28!!<br />it should definatly have more stars haha!!!<br /><br />January 17th:<br />Today we went to to Shippley Upper for ken to warm up on:<br />These peaple are sandwiches***28<br />Hold on to your hats 18<br />Pallets of pies** 24<br />Then went to main cliff for ken to try:<br />Trix Roughly****26<br />He got it after a few tries!!!<br />Then we went down to Porters pass<br />Ken did:<br />Blackheathen****24(2nd go)<br /><br />We got back home and went for a swim in the local pool.....Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-53206469349766366592011-01-12T20:43:00.000-08:002011-01-12T20:43:36.682-08:00bluies 7th,8th,10th and 12th of January!!!!7th of January:<br />To day the weather is not verry good but we are still able to climb!!!!<br />We decided to walk down to Porters Pass because we had heard that it stays dry in the rain and it is a place we havnt been to yet....<br />we warmed up on:<br />So Said The king**21<br />Nylon Happy ****22<br />Then i tried this real hard 25 but got spanked on it!!!!!<br />Then we went around the corner to try a climb called:<br />Self Portrait******29 it was real hard!!!!!!<br />then i tried this 26 called Sail Away wich ii didnt realy like!<br /><br />8th January:<br />We went back t Bardons Lookout!!!<br />it was raining again but this cragg doesnt get wet!!!<br />After a few working sessions Ken managed to pull his way through the start and cruise his way to the top of a climb called:<br />The Way Of All Flesh*****28!!!!<br />I managed to pull through the start a couple of time but couldnt link it from the ground!!!<br />Hopefully next time i will do it!!!!!<br /><br />10th of January:<br />The weather is still crap!!!!<br />decided to go to wave wall because we new it would be dry there !!!!<br />We did:<br />Jaqueline Hyde** 24<br />The Tube**24<br />Ken also did:<br />Shore Break **24<br /><br />12th of January:<br />We went bacck to Wave Wall to repeat some climbs just to get some climbing in!!! instead of sitting at home hiding from the rain!!!!<br />PLEASE GO AWAY BAD WEATHER!!!!!!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-20931723159005505682011-01-09T02:36:00.000-08:002011-01-09T02:36:41.658-08:00bluies photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl5wRZEfvI/AAAAAAAAACM/Jnbw7zCflUI/s1600/DSCF3550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl5wRZEfvI/AAAAAAAAACM/Jnbw7zCflUI/s320/DSCF3550.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl7H4H784I/AAAAAAAAACQ/y02emg64PVI/s1600/DSCF3561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl7H4H784I/AAAAAAAAACQ/y02emg64PVI/s320/DSCF3561.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl8zQ4Pi5I/AAAAAAAAACU/F_3yaflZ7mI/s1600/P1040199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl8zQ4Pi5I/AAAAAAAAACU/F_3yaflZ7mI/s320/P1040199.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl-a_WuL4I/AAAAAAAAACY/ngqWMFDlrGc/s1600/P1050002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl-a_WuL4I/AAAAAAAAACY/ngqWMFDlrGc/s320/P1050002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl_8Ar6wDI/AAAAAAAAACc/9PzuXmnOHME/s1600/P1060052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl_8Ar6wDI/AAAAAAAAACc/9PzuXmnOHME/s320/P1060052.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmBkhuCsbI/AAAAAAAAACg/NaWJVUemH8c/s1600/P1060064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmBkhuCsbI/AAAAAAAAACg/NaWJVUemH8c/s320/P1060064.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmDRnMCpMI/AAAAAAAAACk/ghedqSfLoI4/s1600/P1060092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmDRnMCpMI/AAAAAAAAACk/ghedqSfLoI4/s320/P1060092.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmE-KmDFyI/AAAAAAAAACo/p6noUFmIUJs/s1600/P1060097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSmE-KmDFyI/AAAAAAAAACo/p6noUFmIUJs/s320/P1060097.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl1_lm3RsI/AAAAAAAAACI/WlDZXTtNXZ0/s1600/P1040211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TSl1_lm3RsI/AAAAAAAAACI/WlDZXTtNXZ0/s320/P1040211.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-6188143509000783242011-01-06T03:22:00.000-08:002011-01-07T00:53:40.378-08:00bluies 30th,1st,3rd,4thand 6th!!!!30th of december:<br />Today we went to a cragg called Logan Brae!!!!!!<br />Its a cool place with many awesome routes:<br />I did:<br />&nbsp;&gt;Elastic Analysis** 23<br />&gt;Rain Maker** 24<br />&gt;Dr Stein*****25 (flash)<br /><br />Ken did:<br />&gt;Room With A View**22<br />&gt;The Never Believers***23<br />&gt;Dr Stein***** 25 (onsight)<br />&gt;Surprise Package***24<br /><br />1st of january:<br />Today we went to shipley upper again!!!<br />I did:<br />&gt;These peaple are sandwiches****22<br />&gt;Pallets of Pies**24 (onsight)<br />&gt;Then i tried a cool climb called Equaliser****28. It might go???<br /><br />3rd of january:<br />Today we went back to Bardens Lookout!!!!!!<br />We both did the 26 version of a climb called The Way Of All Flesh which is the Batman start to it!!!<br />We both were getting close to doing the 28 start!!<br /><br />4th of january:<br />Today we went to a cragg called Gate way!!!!<br />It was the first time we had been there and it was awesome!!!<br />I did:<br />&gt;Smooth And Crunchy*18 ( i did it twice to warm up)<br />&gt;Then i tried this climb called Gateway***28 which is so cool and i got real close a few times so i am real keen to go back there and send it!!!!! (i tried it about 4 times haha)<br /><br />Ken did:<br />&gt;Smooth and crunchy* 18 <br />&gt;tried a real hard looking 24 called The Amateur ** but didnt get it<br />&gt; he tried Gateway once but it wasnt really his style<br />&gt;He then tried this other climb which was a bit more his style called Super Sprimkle Cake **28<br /><br />6th of january:<br />We went to a crag called Mitchells ridge!!!<br />It is a small but real cool place!!!<br />We jumped on the clssic climb called:<br />Grace****26<br />We both got it 2nd go. it is a real cool climb!!!!Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-31787282637770984152010-12-28T22:55:00.000-08:002010-12-28T22:55:55.824-08:00bluies 26, 27, and 28th of december!!!December 26th:<br />Me and Ken went down to Wave Wall in the real humid conditions and tried a climb called Smoked muscles 26 which was fun and ken tried Microwave but the humid conditions stopped him from catching the dyno!!!!<br />We both lost a lot of skin because it was so slippery so we decided to pull the pin.....<br />A storm came through just as we were leaving so we walked out in the heavy rain and lightning which got us soaked.......<br /><br />December 27th:<br />Me and Ken decided to walk about 4 kilometers&nbsp; to a crag called Zap Crag where we did some real cool climbs:<br />Jug Buzz *** 22 (me onsight,ken flash)<br />Hot Pump Action Baby * 21 (me onsight, ken flash)<br />We tried:<br />Pulse ****28 which was awsome!!!<br />Then we walked back to the road and then hitched back to the train station!!!<br /><br />December 28h:<br />We met up with Mitch again and he took us out to a cragg called The Egg, we climbed:<br />Red Demon ***24 (flash)<br />I also flashed:<br />The Deal With Space***24<br />Kens Fingers were to painfull so he didnt do any more climbing after trying The Deal With Space a few times so he pulled the pin for the rest of the day.<br />I gave this real cool looking climb a go called:<br />The Floating Line **** 28<br />This was awesome because i could actually reach all of the moves haha...<br />Hopefully i will be able to get this one in the next couple of shots!!!!<br />&nbsp;Wiz Fineronhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05710216323569742339noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3506560525449941006.post-70886803294111225072010-12-21T18:35:00.000-08:002010-12-21T18:35:57.489-08:00bluies photos!!!!!!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFPmn7EA-I/AAAAAAAAABU/uMEsjdwq7SM/s1600/DSCF3387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFPmn7EA-I/AAAAAAAAABU/uMEsjdwq7SM/s320/DSCF3387.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFRh7YLZAI/AAAAAAAAABY/dMGlEd4Iyjg/s1600/DSCF3390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFRh7YLZAI/AAAAAAAAABY/dMGlEd4Iyjg/s320/DSCF3390.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFTfmR-RJI/AAAAAAAAABc/ZieVHcnnA9k/s1600/DSCF3405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pyurXTuY7fY/TRFTfmR-RJI/AAAAAAAAABc/ZieVHcnnA9k/s320/DSCF3405.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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