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Sunday, 21 October 2012

One of the most common questions
men ask me is how they can develop their own style. My answer is always to
start from the basics and then invest in pieces that show your unique personal
flare. I find the biggest problem men have when beginning to build their
wardrobe is that they are missing the key basics or they’re not sure what makes
a good basic. To help out with this common dilemma, I’ve created The Essentials
List: Mr. Cavaliere’s Guide to Menswear! It’s designed to ensure every man has
what they need in their wardrobe to make sure they’re always looking dapper, no
matter the occasion. Today, we start with Part 1: Shirts!

When looking for any of the essentials on this
list, keep in mind two key rules: buyquality and
invest in basic colors. Well-made clothing not only looks better on,
but it also lasts longer and ultimately will save you
money. Also, when buying wardrobe essentials try to stick to colors like navy,
grey, brown and black because they are the easiest to mix together and will
compliment any of the bolder or trendier pieces you might buy in the future!
If bought correctly, these basics will offer years of wearability and
will be well worth your time and money. Think of these pieces as investments
that will change your overall appearance, and ultimately, your quality of life.

So without further ado, here is The Essentials List: Mr. Cavaliere’s
Guide to Menswear!

Part 1: Shirts

The White Tapered Formal Shirt

There’s nothing more versatile that a white dress shirt. Its classic and acts
as a blank canvas, just waiting for you to make your personal mark on it. I
recommend one with a 98% cotton 2% spandex blend for a little bit of
extra stretch. Also, look for a semi spread collar for versatility, and a
tapered fit no matter your frame.

The Denim Shirt

Denim shirts, or chambray shirts
as they are sometimes called, are my go to piece when I want to look casual and rugged without putting too much thought into my outfit. The denim shirt began
as the uniform for those men who worked in the trades and, because of its
utilitarian history, it’s one of the most masculine pieces you can have in your
wardrobe. I recommend you look for one with at least one breast pocket. This
adds visual interest to your look and also adds functionality.

Another perk of this piece is its versatility. It can be dressed casually with
a pair of chinos or dark denim as well as formally with a cotton or tweed suit.
I personally like a lighter wash for my denim shirts because it looks better
with my skin complexion but don't let this stop you from
trying out some of the great dark wash western style shirts out there!

The Neutral V-Neck

T-shirts are probably one of the easiest items for guys to wear, but before I get
into talking about them, let’s remember that these aren't your
traditional boxy crew necks. Most guys probably already have a v-neck or a
scoop neck t-shirt but there's one common mistake I see daily: the fit of these
pieces. Your t-shirts should never be so loose that you look like you’re
wearing a window curtain, or so tight that people can see your rib cage! A
healthy medium between these two is the ideal t-shirt fit. Something that is
not too tight but tapered enough that your shirt provides you with a
slim silhouette.

The other great thing about a v-neck or a scoop neck is that it gives the
illusion that your body is much more Adonis-like. The low neck line shows off
your collarbone which makes you look more chiseled and covers any imperfections
throughout the torso. This is something that your old crew neck just can’t do!

The Vintage Picture Tee

I love vintage picture t-shirts!
I have always been a big fan of vintage black and white photos so putting them
on t-shirts just makes sense. When buying any sort of graphic tee I
recommend a white base because of its versatility in your wardrobe as well as
the fact that any image will sit nicely on it. There are so many ways to wear
this type of t-shirt and depending on your personality and style the look will
vary. I personally love wearing this piece with a cardigan, driving cap, and
jeans for a casual day look but would also wear it with a blazer, a colored
chino, a pocket square, and black wingtips for a great night look.

The Neutral Henley

Some guys have no idea what a henley is, so here is my definition: a crew neck
shirt that can either have long or short sleeves and often has buttons coming
down the front. Now that we all understand what this word means lets
learn how to wear it!

Although a henley can be worn in a variety of different ways and comes in a ton
of different colors and styles, the one everyman needs to have in his wardrobe
is a neutral grey one. Also, look for a longed sleeved one that’s slim enough
to wear on its own but has enough room to throw a collared shirt under. A henley
in a finer fabric is great for pairing with a suit or, for something less
formal, a pair of jeans.

The Polo Shirt

Having a great polo shirt is essential for every man! Whether it’s for golf or
for leisure, it’s the perfect piece to look preppy and put together without having
to wear a dress shirt. We North Americans hold sportswear quite dear to our
hearts and the polo really embodies that idea. With this in mind though, it’s
important to differentiate between fashion polos and polos you actually wear
for playing sports. Fashion polos are usually made out of cotton and have quite
the tapered fit to the body with higher arm holes and a shorter length. Polos
for sports are usually made of Spandex or elastane, are cut bigger for comfort and
are longer in length so they can be tucked in.

I’m also a big fan of tipped polos. A tipped polo has two stripes of color on
the collar and arm holes of the garment.

The Contrast Collared Shirt

The contrast collar shirt, or a
pinstripe shirt, should be thought of as your "ready to do business
shirts". They’re as formal as you can get and they’ve been crafted for
your 9-5 office job. If you want to look like the type of guy that deals with
big transactions on a daily basis, then this is the shirt for you! If you’re working
in a corporate setting, I highly recommend having both of these shirts in
multiple colors.

Most of the white collared professionals here in North America don’t invest enough
time and effort into the fit of their attire and end up looking over sized and
sloppy. A wise man once told me this: "If you want to make a million,
you have to look like you’re worth the money.” The easiest way to fix this
issue is to buy clothing that is tapered to the body. Look for shirts with: higher
arm holes to eliminate excess fabric on the arms, darts in the back that taper to
the torso, a smaller collar as this usually means the shirt will have a slimmer
body, and make sure your shoulder seams are on your shoulder NOT on your arm.

So the question now is, are you ready to look like a million bucks?

The Check Shirt

Plaid shirts in my opinion get a
bad rap, but if chosen properly, they can be one of your best essentials. When
people think of a plaid shirt they’re usually thinking of a thick, flannel,
lumber jack type shirt. The plaid shirting I’m talking about has a small check,
is slim, fine in fabric, interfaced, and transitional. This type of shirts has
the same fitting rules as formal dress shirts but is more adaptable in your
closet. Plaid and check shirting can be worn with a suit and a tie for a casual
office look as well as with a pair of chinos and casual shoes for when you’re
out of the office. The key here is to keep these shirts tucked in no matter the
occasion since untucking them looks sloppy. Another key point for both formal
shirting and casual shirting is collar interfacing. No matter what the look,
make sure your collar has a canvas lining which will keep it stiff and overall
make you look put together.

Another collar style that I love is button downs. They add a visual interest to
your look as well as keep your collar close to your neck. For more information
on what you should get rid of, check out my "What Not To Wear" posthere.