Material used: (All links below will take you to eBay)

12V 30A PSU (Note that a better choice is a server PSU. Linked PSU have some reports of being of bad quality)

What to consider building

When doing this build you have some things to consider. First of all the chargers will produce some heat when discharging so make sure you have enough space between them. Opus have the fans on the backside and some hot air will come there. Mine is a bit to close and was also changed afterwards.

The PSU need to be of decent quality. The chargers need up to 3A each so 30A is minimum for 10 chargers. I picked a psu with a fan inside it to make sure it has enough cooling if needed.

Make sure this whole shabang is fused. I have a fuse in the psu.

Fans on the Opus charges can fail and they do fail! So make the system modular in sense that you can switch out the chargers and replace the fans.

Lets start build it!

Made a quick drawing of how i roughly wanted it all laid out.

I started with finding a thick nice board that i had around. Cut it into a dimension that would work

The brackets was the big issue. I tried several things and even tried to screw the chargers directly but was not happy of it. I wanted some type that i quite easily could remove. Therefore i came up with this typ. Easily just holding the chargers in place. And the middle one holds both the left and right charger. By cutting the top and bending it both ways.

Here i started to mount the chargers to the board. Its also visible how the mounts look.

I did 2 different wiring’s for the chargers. On the front row i utilized the original cables. This works but its not as tidy as the back row is where i used 2.5mm copper wire instead wrapped with insulation and soldered to 2.5mm DC contacts. I wrap all my cables as can bee seen. Its alot nicer!

The top row have a different design and if I redo this is how i would do next one. 2.5mm2 wire is used here.

Cutting out the plexi glass that I used was easier than i thought. I mostly do this on my CNC machine but i did not have time to set this up since it needs sharp tools and water cooling. Instead i took my jig saw and just put in a new blade.. They do recommend fine teeth but i only had coarse wood ones. But since they were sharp and i did it slowly it worked very well.

Next task was to bend the glass. A new thing to me but it was pretty simple. It was just a matter of actually getting it hot enough. Heating on booth sides pretty slowly with the gun made the trick and when it started to bend it self down it was just a matter of applying pressure.

As mentioned above the space between the rows is essential and don’t have this to tight. I have roughly 25mm and that can be to close if you run them in a room that is warm. I have 13c in the space where this is used…Worth nothing is that you need to do it against clean surface or else you will dilute the glass with debris when it becomes soft.

The PSU was mounted on the side. I used one with fan because i don’t want any problem. This PSU i used is load tested since before and have no issues delivering the current needed! But screwing in screws on the bottom and having some tape and then just using a soft hammer you will mark out exactly where the holes need to be. This is a neat little trick and it helps out alot! An up coming video will come about this!

What I did not add is an on/off switch… I did not have anyone that fit nicely so its pending and will be added later on!

I hope this helps someone doing a project like this!

Lessons learned: Beware of the space between the charges as I had pointed out. My setup have been running like this for a while but the distance is a bit to short.

It takes me alot of time writing and composing all this info for you guys. I would highly appreciate if you could support me on Patreon!