A glance at the finished look or face chart for the Derek Lam Fall 2014 runway show has the onlooker squinting and doing a bit of a double-take — does she have a black eye? Well, yes and no.

There's no denying that the deep circles of Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow in Camo Chrome blended to perfection around each model's eye make it look like she came off worst at a sample sale showdown. But when you hear the inspiration behind Estée Lauder Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux's dramatic look, it takes on a bit more romance.

"Derek's collection is strong, urban, ethnic-inspired with an emphasis on texture," Pecheux said. "The makeup look is strong, yet fluid, with pools of gray and green surrounding the eye. I was inspired by water, a lagoon, deep and cool."

There's no denying that some of the intense, beyond smoky eye looks we've been seeing backstage this week harken back to a bit of 90s heroin chic. I'd say the major difference is an increased interest in keeping it pretty and making sure the rest of the look ensures the models still look healthy and vibrant. Here, this is achieved with lots of careful skincare, including a new Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm launching next October, and a really pretty lip created with Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Insatiable Ivory and Intense Nude.

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Hair took a back seat, styled into simple, straight ponytails with a severe center part.

Andrea Kiliany Thatcher is a freelance writer, editor and social media coordinator based out of the Philadelphia area. She writes mostly on fashion and beauty topics and has been covering New York Fashion Week and industry events for various online media since 2007.