Juan Carlos Obando

A towering wall of fragrant roses and delicate orchids served as the backdrop for Juan Carlos Obando's Spring collection. "I wanted it to be a moment," the designer said, gesturing toward the live wall. Moment achieved. A few days before the show, Obando brought up another moment. Namely, Freida Pinto in a tucked and draped lawn-green dress from his Resort collection at a Rise of the Planet of the Apes premiere this July. "It really flipped the business," he said of the exposure. "You don't understand the force until it happens to you." So, sticking with a good thing, Obando picked up where he'd left off with Resort, aiming for eveningwear that's "supermodern and with an ease."

With Josephine Baker back as muse, there was a languid sexuality to the clothes—a sense of glamour with a little grit. Expertly draped and knotted-silk dresses were lightbulb-bright in fuchsia, purple, and what we'll call Pinto green. Several looks were accessorized with long, color-blocked scarves; a strappy sack dress in bands of blue, black, white, and brown was an arresting, full-size version.

There are several ravishing frocks here for stylists to squabble over, but the full secrets of the gowns won't be revealed until they're tried on. A seemingly simple black and white number contained what Obando called a hip corset, in neoprene and silk, for lifting, tucking, and shaping the derriere. Seen on the model, the fabric looked like it just fell there—you had no idea what kind of assistance was being given. "I am here to make your butt look amazing," Obando said with a laugh, but he's serious.