The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting.
An effort has been made to document the new "unknown" climbs which in many cases also effectively retro-bolt existing climbs - these have been given arbitrary names ending in "bble" as "unknown 1,2, 3" etc just seems boring. The retro bolter appears to be Herb Brandmeier from Brisbane. It is likely many bolts and the painted grades will disappear in the next 12 months if climbers opposed to this ugly development can get time to fix it

Route quality

Lead Styles

Comments keywords

Check out what is happening on The Hippy Hippy Shake (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.