Shortcake Makes A Comeback

April 17, 1986|By Phyllis Magida.

``Nothing is more American than strawberries, freshly picked and drenched in thick cream skimmed from the morning`s milk, unless it is strawberry shortcake,`` writes Evan Jones in his book ``American Food: The Gastronomic Story`` (Random House, $9.95).

It`s true. You can`t get any more American than strawberry shortcake.

Shortcakes are found throughout the country. In some areas they are made with biscuits; in others, cake. Any controversy over cake or biscuit has resolved itself, however, in a standoff: Each school is adamant that its version is the original shortcake.

But it is incontestable that the original shortcake was borrowed from the English, who definitely used biscuits to make it.

Today, with the growing interest in American cooking, shortcake is returning in a big way.

``Shortcakes are really coming back,`` says John Lindsey, chef at Michael Stuart`s restaurant. ``We ate them as children when mother made them, but we didn`t consider them fancy enough to serve in fine restaurants. Lately we`ve re-evaluated American food and accepted our cuisine as being as good as, say, French cuisine. Different, maybe, but just as good. Shortcakes are fresh and light and unique to America.``

And they`re coming back better.

Not only are finer restaurants serving shortcakes but also they are updating them. At Michael Stuart`s the chocolate craze has been taken into account: A chocolate shortcake dessert is presented in a stemmed silver bowl. The shortcake is filled with fresh strawberries and fresh strawberry sauce, topped with real whipped cream, drizzled with melted chocolate and garnished with a chocolate-dipped strawberry.

``We will soon be serving shortcake dishes at all three restaurants,``

says restaurateur and chef Michael Foley.

Throughout the spring Foley is serving at his Printer`s Row restaurant a chocolate shortcake filled with fresh strawberries and topped with whipped cream and more strawberries. At Foley`s Grand Ohio he plans to offer a more exotic shortcake filled with kiwi, papaya, ugli or mango. And at Foley`s First Street he plans to do the traditional shortcake--white shortcake with fresh strawberries.

David DiGregorio, chef at the 95th restaurant, offers on the luncheon menu a biscuit dish that he describes as tender in texture and very similar to a shortcake.

``We split the hot biscuit in half, butter both sides and ladle a mixture of chicken strips, mushrooms and Smithfield ham in a cream sauce over the biscuit halves,`` he says. ``Then we top it with the remaining biscuit half and serve it as a main entree for lunch.``

Because of the shortcake`s popularity in the South, it is eaten in many ways there, not just as a biscuit holder for strawberries, says Bill Neal, author of ``Bill Neal`s Southern Cooking`` (University of North Carolina Press, $15.95).

Shortcakes are called that because of their abundant shortening, or fat content, Neal says.

``Almost any kind of fruit--except for citrus varieties--can be used in shortcakes,`` he says. ``Peaches are really popular.

``But we also fill them with savory fillings, too. We make shortcakes large--as large as regular-size layer cakes--then fill and slice them (cut into wedges) at the table. Fillings can include cooked mixtures such as shrimp and crab, scallops in a sauce, or even a sweetbread, country ham and mushroom filling.``

This chocolate shortcake recipe was developed for Michael Stuart`s restaurant by local food consultant Sherry Lieberman.

MICHAEL STUART`S CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

12 servings

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Baking time: 10 to 15 minutes

Strawberry syrup:

24 ounces frozen strawberries in syrup, defrosted

3 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur, optional

Chocolate-dipped strawberries:

6 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips

4 pints fresh strawberries

Shortcakes:

5 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder

2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 8 pieces

1/2 cup each: milk and buttermilk

Assembly:

2 cups whipping cream

1/4 cup confectioners` sugar

Melted chocolate

1. For strawberry syrup, put thawed frozen berries into food processor or blender. Add liqueur if desired. Pulse 3 times to lightly puree. Transfer to storage container, cover and refrigerate. (This can be made one day in advance.)

2. For chocolate-dipped strawberries, choose 12 of the most perfect berries with stems attached. Reserve others. Wipe the 12 carefully with damp cloth and pat dry. Melt chocolate chips in top of double boiler. When chocolate is melted, pick up one strawberry, hold it carefully by the stem and immerse it two-thirds deep into the melted chocolate. Remove from chocolate, shake off excess. Place on wax paper to set. Leave at room temperature and do not refrigerate. (Dip only on day to be used.) Save remaining melted chocolate.

3. Cut remaining strawberries into quarters if large, halves if small. Transfer to storage container, cover and refrigerate until needed.