David Weiss on the fine — and finer — things in life

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Monthly Archives: September 2012

Had the good fortune to see a lousy movie followed by a superior meal at the Woodland Hills outpost of Ruth’s Chris Steak House, a bastion of old-school service and unfussy fare. Located just below the AMC Theater at the Westfield Promenade Shopping Mall, RCSH is a welcome respite from the hustle-bustle of commerce, and a sure bet when it comes to a superior cut of meat.

We came on a Sunday night and found the place comfortably busy, though the service was on the money — courses followed each other with alacrity, and water-glasses remained at a level that would have supported aquatic life. Went with the Harvest Salad to start things off, a nice change of pace with its notes of sweetness and tartness taken care of by the dried cherries and goat cheese. Very refreshing.

But let’s be honest, this is no place for rabbits and greenery. Gullet-space is to be conserved for the steaks, which are served on the eatery’s signature, 500-degree iron platter. If you’re a purist, you might ask them to hold the butter which they lavish on every piece of meat, the better to taste the heifer itself. I went with the Cowboy Ribeye (bone-in) — USDA Prime, natch — and was hard-pressed to finish the badboy. Juicy, firm and tender — just how the (cardiac) doctor ordered.

Sides are uniformly well-prepared, especially the creamed spinach and pecan-crusted sweet potato casserole. My only quibble would be with the onion rings, billed as “Tempura” style, but which instead of being lightly breaded and flaky, turned out to be just six massive, too-heavily breaded rings. But, other than that, I left a very happy camper, even taking up a bus-boy’s beer recommendation — a surprisingly casual, friendly touch in an establishment better known for hidebound tradition and formality.

Call for reservations – they do get busy. (818) 227-9505. Or walk in for Prime Hour from 5-7 pm, Tuesdays through Friday. Cheap eats and drinks and no waiting. I’m getting hungry writing this, and it’s not even 7 am yet!

Who is David Weiss?

A Detroit native, David Weiss fled Motown for Los Angeles in 1978 and began to write for Daily Variety and the Los Angeles Herald Examiner, primarily as a music critic with a focus on jazz.

His own music career started soon thereafter, with the surrealistic funk band Was (Not Was), then various gigs as a composer and producer, working with Bob Dylan and Rickie Lee Jones among others.

In a parallel universe, Weiss has been filing golf and travel stories for T&L Golf, Golfweek and The New York Times and is a regular contributor to NPR's "All Things Considered" program, doing stories on music and all things cultural.