andy townend captures the life and soul of belgrade, serbia

ten reasons to visit belgradestreets

The recent and rapid change in temperature from 28C or so to around 14C has inevitably laid me low with a cold.

So, whilst I sniffle and sneeze away, and generally feel sorry for myself (any readers who know me will recognize the dreaded signs of “manflu…”) I thought I would set myself the task of listing ten reasons for visiting belgradestreets, the real streets that is, not the website…

So, here goes.

And, in no particular order.

1. There may not be the flash department stores that take pride of place in London, New York, Paris or Sydney. But where else can you find a shop dedicated to the sale of brushes – of all kinds, artists brushes, brushes to sweep the floor, toilet brushes…you name it…

2. Where else can a single espresso and glass of water last an hour or more amidst sparkling conversation?

3. Add to the list of shops, old sewing machines, black and white TV sets and remote controls…

4. Bookshops that are not part of a chain. Bookshops with a soul, with a heart. Bookshops with chandeliers. Bookshops that turn into pavement cafes at the first hint of sunshine.

5. Grafitti that would not look out of place in many galleries.

6. Rooflines to amaze and delight. Walk along any street in Belgrade and be ready to be amazed by the sculptures that adorn so many buildings.

7. I love doorways, window frames and arches.

8. How can every street support so many coffee shops and bars? Does anyone ever work?

9. The hustle and bustle of street vendors, CDs, flags, lace, popcorn, caps, the kiosks that sell newspapers, bus tickets, top up your mobile and more

10. And the people, why are Serbian people, men and women, so so beautiful?

The purpose of this post?

Tell me what you think are the ten best reasons for visiting belgradestreets…..

I love reading – and viewing – your posts. When I am in Belgrade, they encourage me to look closer at the everyday views we easily pass by. When I am home in London, they remind me of good times in Belgrade and encourage me to return soon. Keep ’em peeled!

Your photographs illuminate your reasoning. But Reason No. 10 is intriguing. Not the first time that the beauty of the native Serbs has been extolled. And yet there are so few faces of the inhabitants of your wonderful belgradestreets. Perhaps we will see some examples at some stage?
– Paul

1. Architectural heritage. Some schooled architects will call it a mess, but people seem to like this. From Serbian-Balkan architecture recalling our Ottoman history, from all kinds of Secession to Serbo-Byzantine styled buildings and the ones resembling the Czech castles, then Yugoslavian moderna and Brašovan’s genius, continuing to Brutalist architectural heritage of communist-era, there must be something here for just about anyone to like.

2. Three cities in one. The major difference in urban planning and architecture between the Old Belgrade, New Belgrade and Zemun.

3. The photogenic. Everything you picture will probably look awesome from any angle. Even during nights, as it’s a very well lit city.

4. The sense of development. A new Sava bridge, the biggest single-pylon cable-stayed bridge in the World versus the temporary Old Sava bridge built by Germans in WWII that’s still in use today. The old Czechoslovakian trams versus the brand new Spanish ones. Splurge cafés and modern and alternative cafés and restaurants versus the state-funded kafanas, a remnants of socialist times. Et cetera.

5. A city that never sleeps. Literally. Maybe a little less during winter, but during warmer months, the amount of people in the central streets of Belgrade almost resembles the amount of people during the day, only there’s much less traffic which makes it feel really tranquil. And I don’t think only weekends!

6. Alternative cultural movements. Places that started with no or with very small amount of money, independent from the state or any for-profit organization. The best examples are the top floors of BIGZ building with few clubs, Inex Film squatting project, Mixer Festival of all arts…

7. Night-outs. For already mentioned alternative places of importance for contemporary culture, there are many more for-profit clubs and ships where you can have fun, where the amount of sparkle is analogue to the money you will spend. But no matter the exact place, the amount of fun is equivalent.

8. The views. Go for a sunrise on Kalemegdan or Gardoš Tower. Climb the top floors of BIGZ building, grab a beer and wait for the sunset. Quite a few, but so impressive to make it just enough.

9. The parks and the people. Grab a local beer and meet some people, usually very eager for communication with strangers.

10. The unexpected. You never now what you may run into while walking the streets of Belgrade. Sudden funny flash-mobs for some cause, street music players, street dancers or artists making their art in public, you never know, but some might be lucky to run into the unexpected.

my book belgradestreets

published by komshe.com

"my images tell the story of life on belgradestreets, record the essence of life in a city not yet overrun by global culture and repetitive brands, however rundown, every street overflows with life, colour, history and character, streets on which the people are full of determination, memories and hopes for the future, a friendly city which throws its arms open, with enthusiasm, welcoming visitors into its embrace

welcome to belgradestreets through my eye..."

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