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JGBP90MEB6BC General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JGBP90MEB6BC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.

First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....

first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,

1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release.4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.12. Replaced the door.13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.

Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR: As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall: - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position. - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off) - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed, - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws) - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit) - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board). - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY... - 1.02K ohms in ice water - 1.09K ohms at room temperature - 1.36K ohms in boiling water.If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board. - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant. - Carefully remove the wires one at a time - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board. -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector. - Remove the controller board (4 screws) - Install new controller board (4 screws) - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side. -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then, -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then -- Press down on the connector locking tabs. - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board. -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter. - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires. - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.) - Re-install top cover. - Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet, - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place. - Flip power breaker to "On". - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

On Thankgiving Day with company coming and the turkey in the oven, my kenmore stove decided to act up. The oven burner started to smell awful and start carboning up due to improper burning at the burner tube. We then abandoned our attempts to roast the turkey in the oven for that day.

After removing the bake tube and ignitor assembly the following day for a close inspection which involved removal of the bottom pan, racks etc. and disconnecting the ignitor / tube assembly by unscrewing the sheet-metal screws holding them in place, I discovered that the ignitor had burned a hole in the bake tube which could not be seen without unscrewing the ignitor from the tube first. This caused the air / propane ratio to dramaticly change causing the oven to have a strong odor, start to carbon up the bake tube and effect the temperatures and cook time and the possibility of monoxide fumes effecting the chef. The parts that partselect.com supplied, which were in stock ,worked perfectly and saved my Christmas goose. Happy Holidays!

Top four burners on oven would not light without using match

Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. There are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.

1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.

oven wouldn't heat

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I was able to get the exact replacemen part.

I loosened the three gas line fittings on the valve, removed the two screws holding it to the frame, and removed the four wires (spade connectors). Then I reversed the process to install the new valve. It was that easy. This was my last resort after replacing the temperature probe and the control unit. It fixed the problem.

Oven would not cycle on/off/on maintain heat

1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.

My Hotpoint gas stove was not operating at normal temperature. This was operating in a basic range of 125 - 100 degrees below normal. After going through numerous troubleshooting posts, I came to the conclusion the sensor was my first place to check. I did not want to drop $100 for a sensor if I did not need to, therefore, I decided that I needed to know how many ohms the sensor registered in my stove. The sensor need to be 1100 ohms and after using my digital multi-meter,( Analog meter would do for this job as well) sure enough the sensor did register 1100 ohms. I then started troubleshooting other components such as igniter, gas values, etc... All resulting in everything testing out good. That is what really puzzled me. Other posts of people having similar symptoms as my oven always came back to the sensor as the problem. Then I noticed that the cleaning temperature of the sensor needed to be 2600 ohms or somewhere in that range. Therefore, I heated up the oven and tested the temperature of the heated sensor and my sensor registered 1650 ohms. I concluded that the sensor tested good at room temperature, however when heated up, it was not registering correctly. I took a chance and purchased the senor, installed the sensor, which was quite easy and only reqired removing a few screws inside the stove, removal of back panel, and unconnecting the wire attachments, and the oven now operates as new, and just in time for Thanksgiving. The really great thing was that I was a hero in the eyes of my wife this Thanksgiving.

F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

oven would not light

This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.