Comments: The first beta I received on this problem was that it started with a left hand crimp and right hand fat pinch. We ferreted out a line of that description which essentially starts sitting in the cradle of the two larger landing blocks on the left side of the wall. The move to the sloping jug is powerful, but fairly short. The rock quality is incredible, but this is a very dumpy line.... Very fun if you can do it in five minutes, but not worthy of projecting.

Comments: Dope shot! I was actually coming here to enter this line on mtn project today and saw your photo.... A few of us cleaned it up and sent ~ March of '08... called it "Kerosine Milkshake" due to an advertisement at a local convenience shop. For what it's worth, I think we gave it ~6, though a few strong kids never sent it that day after a lot of effort.... So, maybe V5/7 to cover all the bases.

Comments: It's been a long while, but Hickey's V7 + Cannibal Dance: start standing w/ left-facing sidepull, power out to crimpy gaston? w/ RH, highstep left, LH to poor pocket, then again to lip.

Sit start on oppositional holds using a wild perched right foot adds a V grade or so.

Also, do the sit or stand start and climb the wall diagonally join and exit as for Purity Control /aka/ pocket problem. If I remember, I called this "Thunderhead"... a contrivance to be sure, but it gives you a really cool se... more >>

Comments: For what it's worth, my understanding of the original "sit" start: start matched on a low shelf at the lip of the low roof. Do some crazy bunchy moves to join Punani. V9 for sure. One can probably start beneath this lip, but every time I have tried to pull on, I have broken chunks off. In any event, I am of the understanding that matched on the mini-shelf is the original.

Betterton and others have also started down in the cave, using left hand sidepull holds/underclings, as someone mentioned... more >>

Comments: Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The... more >>