Travel log: Dharamsala in winter

The first thing I noticed stepping down from the bus on a foggy Friday morning was the smell. A refreshing mix of burning pinewood, mountain air, rain and something else indefinable, it made me gulp it into my lungs like a drowned man. The second thing I noticed was the lack of noise. The sound-absorbing fog, combined with the natural stillness of the place left my ears blissfully silent after Delhi’s unrelenting buzz. The third thing I noticed was the numbing cold, seeping into my fingers and toes due to my unprepared attire.

2,082 metres above sea level, McLeodGanj is a backpacker’s paradise, retaining a sense of rustic authenticity despite being a tourist hub. Only about a kilometer walk in any direction, McLeodGanj – with a population of about 10,000, including his Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama – is a jumbled mix of shops, restaurants, hotels and cafes strewn along steep winding alleyways. During winter there is a distinct lull in tourist traffic. If you can brave the cold – which can go down to 4 degrees Celcius in February, it is well worth traveling there during winter. The whole town is subdued, the inhabitants quietly going about their business in the (frequent) rain and snow.

The real jewel of McLeodGanj is just outside the small town. Walk north of the village along Dharamkot road and you will soon find yourself along a 4km hiking trail towards Dharamkot village, and past that to Naddi village, which boasts a stunning view of Dhauladhar range. What I enjoyed most was getting lost, meandering through the small farms that clung to the mountainside and taking any path that caught my fancy. The locals were wonderfully helpful and friendly, so finding my way back was easy.

Do not miss going to Bhagsu waterfall, by foot if you have the time. A pleasant 3km walk from McLeodGanj, the final strenuous uphill hike is well worth it. In winter the waterfall – Tibetan prayer flags hanging overhead – pours into freezing crystalline waters that flow down the steep valley. Covered with snow, the sight is breathtaking. By the time I reached the top, wet and cold, friendly locals at the top had chai and a hot fire to sit next to. The few Indian tourists who braved the slippery hike up threw snow at each other like children and made snowmen. “February can have snow, but it’s a bit late in the year”, assured one of the locals. I was glad that I was able to see it. During summer adventurous tourists and locals swim in the freezing pools. I assure you it is a refreshing, yet numbing, experience.

In order to get to Norbulingka Institute, which is somewhere you should not miss, you must first brave a 10-kilometer trip down in the snow and ice to Lower Dharamsala. From McLeodGanj I took a small taxi, and because I caught it halfway when there were already passengers I only had to pay 20 rupees instead of the normal 180. The trip down was frankly terrifying, with the snow and the sheer precipice just a meter away. I survived the trip, thankfully, and caught a local bus from Lower Dharamsala heading towards Palanpur. To Norbulingka it cost 7 rupees. From there it was a 20-minute walk through farms and small shops.

The Institute is an unassuming place along the street, but it was immediately identifiable by the beautiful façade at the front gate. If you ask you can get a free tour. A friendly Tibetan exile walked me through rooms where artists worked on Tangka paintings, sculptures, wood and metal work. The workrooms, temple, and garden all gave a sense of tranquility. There were barely any tourists, and I could linger in the workshops without feeling like I caused a disturbance.

Dharamsala in winter is an experience quite distinct from summer months. The lack of heavy tourism and the chill, snowy environment gives it a romantic sense of quiet seclusion. If you walk a little outside McLeodGanj you are quickly surrounded by a sense of being the only person there, which for someone who comes from New Delhi’s hustle and bustle is a welcome change.

DISCLAIMER : Views expressed above are the author's own.

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Author

Currently working for the Metro section of the Times of India, Alisa Schubert Yuasa is an International Relations student at Brown University in the United States. Based in Japan, she spent the first half of her life traveling to over 30 countries, India included, in what her family dubbed a ‘nomadic lifestyle’. Her blog discusses life, culture and society in India according to an outsider’s perspective.

Currently working for the Metro section of the Times of India, Alisa Schubert Yuasa is an International Relations student at Brown University in the United . . .