David Lawrason’s Weekly Wine Pick: a serious California Zinfandel

Seghesio 2010 Sonoma Zinfandel

$29.95 | Sonoma County, California | 91 pointsCalifornians like to think of fruity, rich zinfandel as their signature wine, but few pay it real respect. Many zins nowadays are too sweet, too chocolatey and too soupy. The Seghesio family specializes in serious and structured zinfandel, and sells a range of bottles from single vineyards, anchored by this larger-production Sonoma County wine.

The taste: Wow—this has a great zin nose, piled deep with mulberry and blueberry fruit, violets and milk chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied, supple, a bit sweet and completely delicious. The fruit stays pure and focused with a hint of raisin on the finish. The tannins are quite soft, and the length is excellent.

How to enjoy it: This is a youngster, so it will keep for five years. However, it’s balanced enough to enjoy now, when you will best catch the exuberance of the fruit (old zin rarely impresses). Decant in a broad-based decanter for an hour or two, and keep it in a cool place (not the fridge). Use a large bowled glass and serve with a nice roast.