I recently got my ham license, and now am acquiring equipment. I just purchased an Icom 706mkIIg transceiver. I suspect that the Icom AT-180 tuner might be the best, but I understand there are other cheaper auto tuners that would also perform well. Not sure whether to go with an auto tuner or manual tuner. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I will probably operate on HF, VHF and UHF, 100W max.

Depending on your antenna, either may work really well. I have one of each. I have an LDG autotuner that works pretty well if it is attached to a descent antenna. It is pretty quick to match once it learns the antenna. It is really nice to just touch a button and have it matched instantly. However, we have found a few antennas that the autotuner really struggles to match. We had a G5RV JR in a flattop configuration that it just wouldn't match on. And then when we we put a rather low end manual tuner on them, they matched 1:1 pretty quickly. So there are some things going on inside the autotuners that I think make them a little less versatile than a manual tuner. The manual tuner I have is the MFJ deluxe versa tuner II and I like it quite well. The first time I attached it, it took a while for me to work through the bands and make a table of starting settings. But now that I have the table, I can change bands, retune, tweak, and be on the air in no time at all. So I would say, if you are looking at a permanent and fairly static installation with a pretty good antenna system, the auto units should serve you very well. And if you are looking at a dynamic install or a portable antenna system, then the manual tuner is the way I would go.

Right now I have been encouraged to build (buy?) an optimized G5RV (ZS6BKW?), which will be pretty stationary at my house. I don't foresee going portable, but I want to always keep that as an option, should the need arise.

I would just like to get on HF for now, and then will need to get another antenna for 2m and 440. Haven't thought that far ahead.

About 25 years ago I operated on 80m, 40m, 15m, 20m from the Bolivian jungle (CP5QA). Had a Kenwood 430, a dipole, a beam antenna at the top of a tree, and an MFJ manual tuner.

I have the AT 200 Pro and it seems to work pretty well. Be prepared for some loud and shocking noise as the relays chatter to seek out the best SWR. If you are not used to the noise, it can be quite discerning the first few times you activate it. The thing sounds like it is going to blow apart any minute.

An 'auto' or manual tuner depends on if you mind twiddling knobs a little bit. The biggest difference between the two types of tuners is cost. I don't think twiddling a couple of knobs is that much of a problem, it's almost fun. The other two characteristics that need attention are the impedance changing 'range', and it's power handling ability. It's a very good idea to select a tuner that has at least twice the power handling ability that you will need. The impedance handling 'range' depends on the electrical 'sizes' of the components used to build that tuner. If the coil and capacitors aren't fairly 'large', it just won't have much range (that also holds true about the 'power' handling part, size determines how much voltage components can handle). Very basically, the larger the size of the tuner the more it can do (terrible way to 'rate' tuners).A 'G5RW' is a nice 20 meters antenna and it does 'work' on harmonically related bands with a tuner. It doesn't do a 'good' job on those harmonically related bands, but it will certainly 'work'. It also means that you have to erect the thing correctly. The typical 'hardest' part about that is keeping the parallel feed line part away from things and sort of 'straight'. The G5RW's characteristics start changing when it isn't erected correctly and it get's harder to tune on all bands. It does work, but it's not a very good 'all-band' antenna really.Have fun. - 'Doc

I really appreciate being able to benefit from your perspectives and insights. Even though I've had some experience with an MFJ manual tuner. it's been a long time, and much as changed in what is now available. I realize I have some gaps in my understanding of my options. As I recall from Bolivia, there was very little choice, if someone had a setup for sale, you simply bought it and learned to use whatever you now owned. Here in the U.S. as I scan websites, I find my head spinning with all the choices, which makes me aware of my need to become familiar with the advantages and disadvantages of the different types / models.

Thanks for taking the time to reply, it's very helpful - Art (KG7AIW - Reno, NV)

You'll feel at home with a new manual MFJ tuner -- two capacitors and a coil (or set of coils and a switch).The "T-tuner" design has been very stable.

Besides speed, an advantage of an auto tuner (some of them!) is that you can mount it close to the antenna, and reduce power losses in the coax between the rig and the tuner. That's only significant if the antenna is far from resonant, or has an impedance far from 50 ohms.

I think the size of your budget may make the choice for you. I've been happy with a manual MFJ-901B, and now with an automatic LDG Z-11 Pro (lives in my attic, batteries last for a year). The MFJ has a wider matching range -- but you shouldn't be using a 40m antenna to work 80m CW !

One thing I might suggest is to consider whether or not you will ever add higher power. If so, you might want to consider a tuner that will handle the additional capacity. It will save a lot later when you figure out that adding a linear also means upgrading more than half the station.

I have a manual tuner and I am constantly switching between 10-20-40-15-12-17 meters. Although an auto tuner would be quicker, I don't find it a problem to snap to the numbers I know will be close and save the fine tuning for when I actually transmit.

Please don't buy an ATU if you intend to try and match anything more than 3 or 4:1. Buy an antenna coupler which is at the antenna end and will reduce coax losses due to high SWR.

That assumes, of course, that the antenna is being fed through a lossyenough length of coax to be significant. There certainly are situations wherethe SWR may be much higher but an ATU is still a good choice, such as adoublet fed with ladder line.

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