In between the mounting board and the handle on the PA? I feel this is a good position for rod holders but it seems to be a really tight fit. Another thing is will it be strong enough in this location to support a striper run on a rod as I am trolling? I have seen this approach taken on the outbacks and revos but I want this on my PA. To be honest, I have already installed them but just don't feel comfortable about their strength. I will take some pics in the morning as I do have a GTG planned on Ray Hubbard in about 7hrs... Please share any feedback and tell me I am crazy if this fails... Thanks, Adrian

In between the mounting board and the handle on the PA? I feel this is a good position for rod holders but it seems to be a really tight fit. Another thing is will it be strong enough in this location to support a striper run on a rod as I am trolling? I have seen this approach taken on the outbacks and revos but I want this on my PA. To be honest, I have already installed them but just don't feel comfortable about their strength. I will take some pics in the morning as I do have a GTG planned on Ray Hubbard in about 7hrs... Please share any feedback and tell me I am crazy if this fails... Thanks, Adrian

If you used the matching YakAttackFullBack backing plates, it should be more than enough.

Here are pics of the install. It seems fine for now and if feels so natural. No need to lean forward out of the seat to get the rod. I did some trolling yesterday and caught a half dozen fish on the right side holder without issue but then again these were just sand bass

Don't know what all that stuff is. I have a mount for the Bass Pro rod holders at that spot. Four #14 stainless sheet metal type screws. Holds fine with spanish mackeral runs. Should be no problem for a striper. You can see the holder here aft of the Humminbird Fish Finder

If you are mounting it on the port side for a rod holder, it will come unthreaded if it takes a hard strike from a big bass....I use aluminum ram tubes and put a regular ram ball on the mounting board because of this, since I troll from the port side. Just something to think about.

How are they attached - must be thru-bolts? How do you reach the underside to thread the nuts?

Thanks,Larry

This is exactly what I was thinking. How on earth do you get to that to thread a bolt with a nut on the bottom side? I think that would be a great place for a track, but I'd be very worried about using it without threading a nut on the bottom side. You never know what kind of monster is going to hit your rig... especially if you go in saltwater or BTB.

How are they attached - must be thru-bolts? How do you reach the underside to thread the nuts?

Thanks,Larry

This is exactly what I was thinking. How on earth do you get to that to thread a bolt with a nut on the bottom side? I think that would be a great place for a track, but I'd be very worried about using it without threading a nut on the bottom side. You never know what kind of monster is going to hit your rig... especially if you go in saltwater or BTB.

Maybe someone else has threaded a nut there and can tell us how.

If you take the route LT mentioned using the YakAttack GearTrac 175 series, check first to see if you have the necessary width for the Full Back Mounting Plate. If you have the necessary width, then the Full Back actually has integrated S/S nylon locking nuts already. All you need to do is get the threads started on two of the bolts securing the GT175 on top and the rest will seat perfectly. I used this approach on my son's old Tarpon 100 in an area that was tight fit, and that mount is so strong now, you could lift and tote the kayak from that mounting point alone.

If the GT175 is too wide, you can opt for the GT90 series which is the narrower version. The smallest one offered is the one with the 3 mounting holes. There is also a backing plate for this trac as well but it is a standard backing plate where you would need to use a nut driver or a ratchet with an extension and socket to thread a locking nut on the bolt most likely due to the tight fit and the hull design.

Be mindful of any cable routing or other items like FF or electrical power wiring you migth have in the same area on your respective PAs.

Actually, I'm just referring to how you get the nut threaded since the placement on a PA 14 would be really hard to reach (if it is even possible), because of the small space, and its awkward position.

Actually, I'm just referring to how you get the nut threaded since the placement on a PA 14 would be really hard to reach (if it is even possible), because of the small space, and its awkward position.

This video should answer your question (actually two videos). A backing plate with integral nuts is used so you don't have to worry about holding a nut to thread and a tool called a "rigging bullet" is used to position the backing plate into positions in the hull far away from hatch access. Luther Ciphers explains and demos this installation process well in these videos. It's a very slick solution. Enjoy.

My trax are screwed directly into the mounting board with a drop of Lock-Tight. No backing plate. They aren't going anywhere. Oh yeah, and I screwed every screw in there. I probably could gotten away with only 4. Also, I have a 4" trax on the stern deck with a backing plate.

I talked to a couple guys at the Hobie shop about the flex I'm getting up front, but they assure me, if may flex but it won't give way.