Grass Cup Cafe and Coffeehouse has artsy vibe

Press photos/Mark CopierComfort zone:: The Grass Cup Cafe and Coffeehouse is unremarkable on the outside but has an artsy feel on the inside.

Here's to dashed expectations.

Anticipating yet another semi-boring experience in sandwich munching, my visit to The Grass Cup Cafe and Coffeehouse ended up being revelatory. Maybe it was the wazowza caffeine rush of the near-miraculous Sumatra blend I sipped on, but the cool artsy-but-not-pretentious vibe of the place and the food's gourmet flavors combined for the culinary equivalent of a home run.

On the menu: An appetizer philo feta roll with marinara and taziki sauces is featured at The Grass Cup Cafe and Coffeehouse.

And it came in the unlikely little burg of Graafschap, a place I never knew existed, not too far from the mainstream bustle of Holland's stretch of U.S. 31. A couple of my recent eating outings have uncovered ambitious little places offering upscale-ish, chef-rendered plates at reasonable prices -- if this is a trend, consider this column a resounding note of encouragement.

Ambience: Honestly, the external facade of the place isn't much -- humble and unassuming. Inside, unique paintings hang on the walls over a handful of booths, a cluster of tables (with tablecloths, even!) and a coffee bar. Sit down, and a server will wait on you, but it's totally cazh (that's slang for "casual," kids).

Chow down: I opted for the Angeli wrap ($6.99), adding a cup of chicken dumpling soup ($1.95) and a bottomless cup of coffee ($1.50). My wife ordered the chicken Caesar wrap ($6.99) and a cream soda ($1.75), and eventually caved in for dessert, a squooshy-sweet pear with ice cream ($3.50).

Well, how was it? We were given a complimentary sampling of a daily appetizer special -- a tomato-cream sauce with goat cheese and bread to spread it on, and it was so delicious, I A) actually ate something made from tomatoes, a food from my most-loathed list, and B) thought my wife was going to lick the bowl.

Anyway: The Angeli wrap is vegetarian-friendly, consisting of hummus, feta spread, mozzarella and spring mix tossed with Dijon in a soft, thick pita. It came with a scoop of real mashed potatoes, skins included (no spud flakes here), topped with a dollop of my creamy chicken soup. To put it eloquently, yum.

My wife had similar feelings for the chicken Caesar -- grilled chicken with parmesan cheese, romaine lettuce and homemade dressing -- and her chosen side, a creamy pasta salad. She quickly devoured the pear-thingy dessert, too.

Other stuff I wanted to try: Anything, after that superb meal. I hear the herb-crusted chicken is popular, if a bit more expensive at $10.99; the chuck roast sandwich with havarti cheese sounds good ($7.99).