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clean but walled on the early morning low tide. somehow still surfed 3 hours. no reasonable explanation for that.
had more fun prior two days with the wind on it as the shape was better and crowd lighter.

i bruised two ribs and ganked my shoulder on a crappy (my fauilt) seoi nagi during randori on a guy with 50 pounds on me; thankfully that healed 100% but it took 4-5 months.
who knows; maybe i'll get there some day. i really enjoy the whole deal.

you guys will like this one.
while i'm surfing this morning this guy tells me about how he's out eating at a popular oceanside restaurant which now has a lot of outside seating.
everyone is sitting outside, enjoying their food and beers, and watching some protestors come down PCH. it's all...

swell up with south wind early and some current. kinda funky but improved a bit into the session; not as rippable as yesterday but had some fun turn sections with a only a few out.
i'm super stoked on surfing at the moment so i shrug off crap surf and just paddle out and have fun.
yew