When the equator is off
kilter - and it does happen - it's tough to work balanced polar
designs much less an obi design or embellishment. If the equator is
consistently out of balance, or not equidistant from the north and south
poles, it's a prime signal that the ball is out of round, rather than
there being a problem with working the division (although this can be a
problem too).

Those starting out in making
temari tend to not quite grasp the importance of as nearly-round a ball
as can be made. Additionally, they are so eager to begin the "fun" part
- stitching - that they shortcut making the mari. There is no getting
around that the first, and most important step in making temari is
making a round mari, or as nearly round as one can get. This requires
paying attention to the process (as described on the Dodai
Mari page - it's not like winding a ball of yarn). Mari making
tends to get taken for granted, when it is a skill to be mastered. As in
so many things Japanese (and others), the base or foundation tasks are
the most important. To sum it up - we have to learn to walk before we
can learn to run.

So, if you have an out of round-ish mari, there are a few tricks that
can be tried to tweak things. The first if you are trying to use
Styrofoam or other preformed ball, make
your own. The second is practice. Yes, practice. It's not just
about winding a ball - it has to be done with care and attention. Don't
try to shortcut or hurry it. Try rolling the ball between your hands,
like making a snowball, frequently while you are wrapping; likewise it
may help to roll it on a firm surface. Be sure to work down in size
through yarn and thread. The last yarn layer needs to be thin -
otherwise no matter how carefully you wrap there will still be lumps and
bumps that are extremely difficult to overcome with the thread wrap(s).
The mari must be kept moving in all, random directions as you wrap, all
layers (not just the last one) to help avoid skewed shape and lumps. If,
as you are making the mari, you notice things are not round, apply
pressure as needed while wrapping to try to compensate and return to
round. Be sure to be using enough thread in the thread layer. The
working rule is: If you have to ask if there is enough thread, there
probably isn't. It's the thread layer that does the final smoothing and
shaping, and it takes a good deal more than you might think as you are
gaining experience (while quantities are not critical, it does take
about 300 yards to adequately cover a 23cm circumference (2 3/4"
diameter) mari. Don't wrap mari if you are tensed - it will be
transferred to your wrapping and make it more difficult. While one does
have to pay attention to what is being done, don't "overthink" it. It
can't be said enough: practice. Try different materials for cores, with
or without batting, different types of yarn (as long as you are working
from thicker to thin). See what works best for you. Bottom line is no
one is going to know what is in that mari, but they WILL know if it is
round or not.

Be sure that as you lay down
division lines, that the major intersections are tacked in place,
meaning that the north and south poles as well as where the equator
intersects each vertical marking line. The jiwari will naturally shift a
little bit as the ball is handled, so be sure that as you complete the
marking you tack things in place before they shift. Likewise, even with
tacking stitches in place, always be sure to look at the marking lines
to be sure they are in place before absently taking a stitch around
them. A mari that is slightly out of round may still be used in some
designs - a few are more forgiving than others. Another trick for mari
that are a tad "oblong" - that is, a little bit longer in one direction
than another, may be usable IF you align the longer axis on either the
NP-SP axis (up and down), or the equator (side to side). Many times the
pattern will "absorb" the differential so that it is not noticeable if
the longer axis is either vertical or horizontal. It is important to
note that while it might be possible to sneak a slightly out of round
ball through a Simple Division design, this does not work for elevating
to Combination Divisions - the more intricate the division, the more it
requires symmetry, thus a round ball.

Regardless of the ball being round
or not quite, when working polar designs (that is, patterns stitched in
each hemisphere, each around the north or south pole) it is an
invaluable help to remember to mark up from the equator rather than down
from the pole when placing pins for stitch markers. If the equator is
slightly off, measuring up from it (for, say, the bottom point of a kiku
design) will absorb the error, whereas measuring down from the poles
will only accentuate it.

If the equator seems to be ok when
you start stitching but looks "off" after you complete the work on the
poles, it may well be your stitching rather than your division marking.
We all tend to vary in intensity and tension as we work - on anything.
It helps greatly to keep a view of the whole project, not just where you
are working. When stitching polar designs, be sure to place the starting
pins on BOTH hemispheres at the same time - not just on one and then do
the other after finishing the first pole, to be sure that you are
orienting them both the same. When stitching, work a few rows on one
pole and then a few rows on the other, and keep a watch on the overall
temari as you progress. Work on both poles should progress at the same
rate, so that the symmetry of the pattern remains intact. If things
begin to skew, it's usually possible to either make corrections in
stitch placement from then on, or at least a lot easier to work back
(yes, pick out) and fix things then, rather than having a whole half
done and it's crooked.

If all else fails - the equator
line can be adjusted. Snip the tack stitches and realign it between the
two polar designs. This does not always work, but it's worth a try if
you have no other options.