San Polino was Montalcino’s first certified organic estate and is now run on biodynamic lines.

‘We tend to make the wines first and think about how to sell them later,’ says Nussbaum, an approach exemplified by the decision to bottle three different versions of the 2012 Brunello, each fermented with a different strain of indigenous yeasts.

The wines are joyful. They have depth and power and a wonderfully expressive complexity.

I had the privilege in 2016 to taste the 2001 Brunello and it went immediately into my mental catalogue of all-time greats.