Rear brakes not working on 1990 ford bronco 4x4

I do not get any action at the rear drum brake wheel cylinders when I pump the brake pedal. I suspect the antilock system. Is there a way to test the proper function of the antilock unit near the firewall?

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start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

alot of air in the lines,probably the rears,fill up the master cylinder and loosen the bleeder screws on the rear and let them drip for 10-15 minutes,may not drip at all so thats air in it,tighten them up and pump the brakes about 20 times and hold them,have someone release the bleeders 1 side at a time with the pedal still down,then pump again about 15 times,do the same process,what you want to do is compact the air as far down to the wheel cylinders as possible so when you loosen them more air comes out with the fluid.

bleed it from wheel to wheel the one fartest from the cylinder andworking away around till yo are at the closest, you need a quart of dot 3 brake flid to do it and two people to do it, pump the pedal three times ad release the cylider valve and do so til yo get clear brake fluid do this which each wheel and keep filling the master cylinder, do this twice if it's working the pedal will keep rasing. if the pedal becomes sollid and still not all the way up then adjust the rear brake start wheels where te wheels barely touch the drums, aslo there is a compensating valve on the rear axle remove the nutthat holds it to the bed and open it wide open and continue to bleed, that should fix you up.

They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes