Liz Biro: New chef shaking pans at Plow & Anchor

Minor menu changes are happening, mainly larger portions and using less ingredients in simple but creative ways that project full flavor

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A current flounder entrée at Plow & Anchor highlights new chef Toby Moreno’s tastes. Pan-fried flounder set upon creamy tomato soup with smoked oysters and a homemade soda cracker on top speaks to his comfort food leanings. Chow-chow painted around the bowl is a tribute to Moreno’s Mexican heritage and culinary mentor chef David Tallent of Restaurant Tallent in Blommington.(Photo: Liz Biro/The Star)Buy Photo

Adams and Plow & Anchor co-owner chef Craig Baker both said differences in opinion about Plow & Anchor's direction led to Adams' departure.

"I'm kind of ready to move on to something else," Adams said, citing an interest in healthy cooking and alternative diets.

I'm going to take a break from restaurants for a while," he continued. "I'm looking toward doing some catering, supper clubs, private cooking lessons."

At Plow & Anchor, minor menu changes are happening, mainly larger portions and using less ingredients in simple but creative ways that project full flavor, Baker said. A hefty pork chop laid over sweet potato spaetzle, fried cabbage and apple mustard, a fried egg on top was one piece of evidence this week.

"We're looking to have more of a perception of value on our entrees," Baker said.

"We want to focus a little more on the raw bar and the environment it creates," Baker added. The boxed-shaped area is a show. Diners watch chefs shuck oysters and craft appetizers and desserts behind the bar. Baker said he wants to serve more regional seafood at the bar.

Moreno, a Marion native, said he was ready advance from a four-year-stint at Restaurant Tallent, 208 N. Walnut St., Bloomington, when he accepted a sous chef position at Plow & Anchor in mid-December. Finding himself suddenly in charge, Moreno, 26, said he plans to show his culinary personality slowly after the New Year holiday.

His penchant for Indiana-grown ingredients aligns with Plow & Anchor's style. Vegetables from his own garden already pepper the restaurant's list. Expect dabs of Moreno's Mexican heritage and his interest in Spanish cooking and Indiana food culture.

A current flounder entrée highlights Moreno's tastes. Pan-fried flounder set upon creamy tomato soup with smoked oysters speaks to Moreno's comfort food leanings. Chow-chow painted around the bowl is a tribute to Moreno's likes.

Chow-chow is a southern Indiana favorite related to Spanish, Mexican and French salsa verde sauces, Moreno said. French versions blend herbs, capers and cornichons, Moreno noted. Mexicans use tomatillios. Moreno replaced the capers and cornichons with Indiana pickles. He added green tomatoes from his garden.

"It's also kind of an ode to (chef) David Tallent," Moreno said of the sauce inspired by his former boss at highly regarded Restaurant Tallent.

"He's the one that ultimately opened up my mind to everything that I think now. Our ideas are similar but different," Moreno said.

"One thing that he's always loved is chow-chow, and one thing I've always wanted to do is something like that."