Yukon Steak Co. Serves Alaska-sized Portions

Yukon Steak Co. in Newport News is the latest in the herd of steakhouses to stampede the Peninsula.

The hunting-lodge motif creates a sense of adventure where diners sit surrounded by stuffed moose, bears and other wild game. There's plenty to look at and just as many well-prepared dishes to choose from on the menu.

Beef dominates, but an assortment of seafood, pasta and combo dishes are adequately represented. A few burgers and sandwiches are also offered for smaller appetites. "Cubs grub" features a decent selection for kids 12 and under. Specialty drinks from the full bar and beer and wine are available.

Most meals come with a salad and an "extra provision" and are compatibly priced to this market. But add sizzlin' skillet mushrooms ($3.95) or a cluster of steamed crab legs or skewer of grilled shrimp ($4.95) to an entree and your bill can climb quickly.

Our threesome visited on a Wednesday night and we had no problem getting a table. On weekends it's probably a different story. The same may go for all-you-can-eat baby back ribs ($14.95) on Thursdays. But call-ahead seating is available if you're concerned about a wait.

There's also a "Beat the Rush" special Monday-Thursday 4:30-6 p.m. and Sunday noon-4 p.m., which features four entrees to choose from with a salad and a side for $10.95 (not available on holidays).

We started with the pub-style shrimp ($6.95) and Alaskan crab dip ($7.45) from the handful of "Alaska Tizers." Five medium-sized shrimp were served sitting on a bed of sourdough crisps in a crock and topped with a creamy garlic "pub" sauce. The rich sauce had red peppers, scallions, garlic and a hint of wine. The shrimp were tender and the peppery sauce added a delicious kick. I only wish the shrimp came sans tails because it makes for a mess popping the tails off with your fingers.

The crab dip also came in a crock and it was served steaming hot with lots of bubbling Cheddar and Jack cheese on top. Loaded with shredded Pacific crab, cream cheese and spices, the dip paired well with the accompanying sourdough crisps. We sopped up the rest of the dip and remaining shrimp sauce with the complimentary crusty dinner rolls and apricot raisin bread. I'm a sucker for bread and these renderings could easily ruin an appetite in a hurry.

My husband Dave ordered the Alaskan salmon bake ($13.95 with a side) under "Frontier Favorites" for his entree. You can add a salad for $2.25. My sister Sherrie and I split the filet imperial ($21.95 with a salad and a side) from North Country combos. And we couldn't resist the sizzlin' skillet mushrooms.

We all shared the salad and agreed it was good, but had way too much Parmesan peppercorn dressing. Mixed greens, tomato, shredded cheese, shredded carrots, cucumbers and onion came topped with croutons. Normally delivered with bacon, we declined for the non-meat eater in the group. Though the dressing was flavorful, I'll know to ask for it on the side.

Three big hunks of salmon were served on a bed of rice accompanied by black bean salsa and a huge portion of steamed broccoli with cheese sauce on the side. The fish was moist and flaked with a fork and the cold salsa added an interesting flavor. Doctored up with carrots, scallions, red peppers and slivered almonds, the fluffy rice was delicious. Dipped in the tangy cheese sauce, the crisp bunch of broccoli was good and never seemed to reduce in size.

Two 4-ounce filets came topped with lump crabmeat and a tasty imperial cream sauce. The beef was tender and juicy and sliced like butter. A hearty serving of mashed potatoes -- with the skins left on -- came with rich mushroom gravy. Marinated in garlic, wine and au jus, the button mushrooms stayed very hot in the skillet. They were great added to the gravy or by themselves.

Almost as encouragement, diners are offered $1 off desserts that are ordered to go. We were stuffed, so we took Greg's Revenge (that day's "dessert adventure" was pina colada cheesecake, $4.95) home for later consumption. The custard-like filling was too coconutty and sweet for my taste. I wish I'd ordered the mile high mudslide pie ($5.95), I've heard only good things about it.

Not to worry, there's always next time. The friendly, able wait staff kept us satisfied and I know I'll be back for the shrimp. *