Poured Resin Wall Art

Resin has become one of my favorite mediums to work with because it’s absolutely beautiful when it’s finished. It can make many surfaces look like glass, it can cover and protect, and it really gives off a great shine! When I learned about poured resin wall art, I just knew I had to try it out! I absolutely love it.

This is a sponsored post, I was paid to create this project and was sent the products to use for free. I always give me completely honest opinion and experience when writing sponsored posts. If you have any other questions, see my Disclosurespage. There will also be affiliate links in this post, which means that if you click on those links and purchase through them, I get a small commission which helps me to keep my site running. Thank you so much for your support!

Prepping work space:

Working with resin is very MESSY! You’ll definitely want to use gloves because it’s extremely hard to clean resin off of your hands, or anything else for that matter. You’ll also want to be sure you have a good box, layers and layers of newspaper, or something plastic that is bigger than your board in order to catch the drips that fall off the sides of the board. There will always be dripping! Be sure to have some paper towels too just in case you spill a little.

Canvas options:

The very first time I tried this technique I used a stretched canvas from the local craft store. It worked, but the weight of the poured resin caused the canvas to slightly fall in the center which caused all of the resin to pool in the middle and that is definitely not what you want. If you choose to use a stretched canvas then be sure to support the center so you don’t have this happen.

On the second try making this art, I used large section plywood and it worked much better. I’d highly recommend using a wooden board as your canvas.

Be sure that whichever type of canvas you use is free from all dust and debris. From here on out I will be referring to “the board”, since that’s what I used for this project.

Sealing the board:

To seal the board you will want to mix a few ounces of Envirotex Literesin and spread it thinly across the entire board to cover the surface. Use your micro-butane torch to pop any existing bubbles. This seal coat will help the resin spread across the board evenly and will reduce the number of bubbles that arise later on while the resin is curing. Wood tends to give off a lot of air bubbles if it is not properly sealed, so be sure not to skip this step.

Estimating Resin:

Envirotex Litecomes in bottles containing two parts which you’ll mix: Part A is the resin, and Part B is the hardener. For this art piece you’ll be mixing a lot of resin, so you’ll need quite a few cups. I think I used seven total. The amount you need depends on the size of your board, and the packaging will tell you approximately how much you’ll need. I used three 8oz. boxes. You can mix all of the resin at once in a large disposable container, then pour a smaller amount into each of the cups (for as many colors as you need) OR you can mix a couple smaller cups and still separate them into different cups for different colors. I used white, blue, green, purple (mixed red and blue), white with glitter, and copper acrylic paint.

Mixing Resin:

When you mix the resin, you’ll need to add exactly the same amount of Part A and Part B.

Mix thoroughly with a stir stick, making sure to scrape the sides as you go.

Now pour into smaller amounts in different cups and add color pigment or acrylic paint to the resin to change each color. I used 6 colors, but you can use as many or as few as you’d like.

Pour the Resin:

Decide on one cup to be your first pour cup, it doesn’t matter if it is a color or white or even clear. Pour a small amount of each of the other colors into this resin. White was my main cup, then I added blue, green, purple, glitter white, copper then did it over again one more time until the cup was pretty full.

Pour that cup into the center of your board. Actually, you can start pouring it anywhere. Since you’re making art, it really can be done any way that you want.

My first pour wasn’t enough to cover the entire board, so I did a second pour using more of each color of resin.

Check out all those amazing colors and patterns! After that pour I still needed a little on the edges, so I took each color cup and just poured it into the bare spots. I even poured some of the colors over the top to add a little more character. You can do whatever you want!

The resin may need a little help getting to the edges, so slightly tip the board whichever way is needed. Then use a craft brush to wipe off the drips on the underside of the board. This will need to be done a few times as the resin all starts to settle and drip off the board.

Pop the bubbles:

Every resin project I have ever done has had tons of bubbles that surface just a few minutes after pouring. This may worry you, but with the right tools it is no big deal. You will definitely want a mini torch of some sort for this project because it’s just too big to try to exhale to pop all the bubbles. All you need is a micro-butane torch to quickly run a flame across the top of the resin and it will pop all the bubbles. Sometimes it helps to wait a short time after the pour, like maybe 10 minutes, then come back and pop the bubbles. This ensures that most of the air pockets will have risen to the top.

Here is a video showing the pouring process! If you like it, please click over to YouTube and leave me a comment!

Let the resin cure:

Alright, so the final thing is to make sure your artwork is in a clean place where no dust or debris will land on it. Let it cure for 24 hours.

Check out all the amazing patterns. These will continue to change slightly as the resin settles and mixes together.

All done!

Now stand back and enjoy that amazing artwork that you made! Check out the patterns, the sparkle in the metallic paints, find hidden images or your favorite design and just appreciate how easy it was to make something so awesome. Frame it if you’d like, or just leave as is! (I added a white frame.)