In the OP it says “current status: anodization is dark gray”… now, I can’t speak for others of course, but to me dark gray would be something like graphite (or maybe a bit lighter than that) – in the pics it looks like it’s closer to silver, kinda like a middle gray actually lol.

Did you swap in clear optics btw? Or did yours not come with a frosted medium spot?

We asked for dark grey, though what I received is more of what I’d call a medium grey. I think it still looks good though, even though it’s a bit lighter than expected.

I don’t have any 10511 optics right now, but I ordered some. So I’ve been using the two closest until then — 10508 and 10507. Those are what I have in the pictures.

cabfrank wrote:

What really has me excited is seeing it next to the SK-68, and realizing it uses an 18650. It almost seems like magic.

I know, right? I’m not sure if the SK-68 is as widely-known these days as it used to be, but it was a lot of people’s first modern LED light… and the FW3A is almost exactly the same size. But the FW3A puts out about 50 times as much light, has 5X as much battery capacity, has a much nicer general-purpose beam, and has feature-rich firmware instead of just 1-mode or high-low-strobe.

mortuus wrote:

but which color will we get, the darker or the lighter one ?

Darker.

Eraursls1984 wrote:

ToyKeeper wrote:

On mine, it was ~4000K, like a 5A or 5D tint.

4000K is my preference, and the 219B is still one of the top two nicest tints in that temp. The 219B is extremely consistent in my experience, and all the XPL-HI 4000K I’ve used have been slightly better or just slightly worse.

In this case, it actually makes my 219B-4000K light look slightly green. It’s quite rosy. That’s just about right for me though.

Maybe after the initial batches are done, they could make a 5A-tint XP-L HI model. Or SST-20. Or whatever else people want. For now though, I just want to get the original project done.

Boaz wrote:

Does the FW3A have flashes in the ramping to tell you when you hit full output or at the top of the 7135’s.

There was a poll about this a while back, basically yes/no for each optional “blip” in the ramp, and I went with whichever ones had more yays than nays. IIRC, that worked out to 1×7135, 8×7135, and ramp ceiling. But in the default config, those last two are the same.

I’ve been tempted to turn off the blips entirely, and have turned them off in the builds for some other lights, but the FW3A is still configured according to the poll results.

I’m just curious about the “blips”…

For now, which flashlights with Anduril have that blip? and which don’t?

I think the BLF Q8 and Sofirn Q8, Emisar D4S has that blip to signify crossing-over from the fully-regulated to partly-FET-driven mode.
But I don’t think I noticed a ‘blip’ on the Fireflies PL47 or E07.
Is that right?

TK, that button effect is simply from the circular machining marks, it’s present on virtually every flat surface machined true on a lathe. Depends a lot on the feed rate but yeah, see it all the time cutting ends of bar stock on the lathe.

TK, that button effect is simply from the circular machining marks, it’s present on virtually every flat surface machined true on a lathe. Depends a lot on the feed rate but yeah, see it all the time cutting ends of bar stock on the lathe.

TK, that button effect is simply from the circular machining marks, it’s present on virtually every flat surface machined true on a lathe. Depends a lot on the feed rate but yeah, see it all the time cutting ends of bar stock on the lathe.

A flower is simply the effect of rearranging some of the chemicals in dirt into a different form, and people see them all the time… but I still like to stop and smell them.

Just want to make sure I’m still on the list. I originally signed up for 3 then later canceled 2 but I’m only able to find the two cancelations listed.
I do still want one light, am I still down for one?

Edit: 1406 is still there. Thanks!

—

RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.