The first pitch is my least favorite, a little contrived and then runnout. The best line seems to weave back and forth between the bolts which is kind of a theme on this route. This pitch can be skipped by scrambling up a gulley to the right as mentioned above.

Don't overlook the airy third pitch. This pitch has hollow rock, spacey bolts and difficult in-obvious climbing that feels like the mental crux of the route and isn't really muc... more >>

Comments: No worries George! Nothing wrong with the occasional sandbag. I noticed this is rated .11d in the Falcon New Mexico guidebook which feels about right. This is a great crag if you realize what you are in for. I would say .11d for this, .12c for Completely Clueless, and .12b/c for Bojin after my visit today.

Comments: I doubt this thing gets climbed much. This feels like the hardest line of the three by far. At least Bojin to the left has usable holds through the difficult climbing and feels reasonable for its given grade. There was some suspect glue at one point where it looked like a hold might have been.

Fun 5.11 climbing leads to a stance on a sloping angled foot ledge. From here it is 20 feet of desperate, sequential slab climbing that is probably .12d in reality. It took me multiple tries to wor... more >>

Comments: I pity the hapless bastard who heads to Techweeny Buttress for a relaxing day of sport climbing. Crankenstein is a true sandbag of epic proportions probably more in line with standard .12a in the Sandias. I assume the nature of these routes has changed over the years, I even managed to break a hold on it today.

Mellow climbing leads to the second bolt. From here the route weaves right to the arete for then back to the face on solid mid 5.11 climbing for about 30 feet. Without resting bust... more >>

Comments: This route linked with Great Escape makes for what would be an excellent 5 star outing at any crag. Also, the 30 feet of crux climbing is one of the few stretches of pure crack climbing I have encountered in the Sandias. Highly recommended.