Astier

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Now I’m glad I waited. This dreary, rainy afternoon feels like the perfect time to write about the homey, comforting, and delicious meal I enjoyed at Astier.

On a cold night (although not as cold as last night, when we walked home in the snow after the Super Bowl) last weekend, Nick and I had the pleasure of eating our first meal at Astier. It won’t be our last. Entering the crowded restaurant through the velvet curtains, we were greeted promptly and enthusiastically by the host, who directed us to a tiny table in a corner near the kitchen. Nick noted that all the two-tops seemed to be in the least romantic spots, although the chances of a quiet, intimate meal à deux looked to be slim. No matter. As we were soon to find out, the food makes up for it and the place has a comfortable feeling that you don’t get in a quieter, less bustling restaurant.

We both ordered the menu, a deal at 33 euros for 4 courses, including the much-lauded cheese tray. Everything on the carte looked great, but I was quite hungry, so I let my stomach guide me to some quick decisions. I started with the poached egg in cream of celeriac soup, while Nick chose the salad with Lyonnaise sausage.

My chicken was tender and flavorful, but I was most impressed by the broth in which it was served: it was as clear and full-bodied as a good comsommé! The accompanying vegetables (broccoli and two colors of carrot – could explain this) were brightly colored and non-mushy, a treat when many restaurants tend to overcook their vegetables. Nick’s beef was equally skillfully cooked, and the marrow, well, you know how I feel about that.

The highlight of an already significantly above-average meal came in the form of the well-stocked cheese tray we had seen flitting around the dining room as we ate. We couldn’t wait for the lengthy descriptions and dove right in, sampling just about every cheese available.

From the sublimely creamy to the exquisitely stinky, every single one was a hit. Cheese à volonté is a pretty dangerous concept, though, especially when you’ve still got dessert on the way.

There was some awkwardness when I tried to order dessert – I’m allergic to walnuts, not in the way that will cause me to die, but I’d still rather not eat them if I can avoid it. Normally, it suffices to ask if something is made with walnuts (noix, which can also mean “nut,” though it is rarely used that way by French people). The trouble is that Astier gets a lot of English-speaking guests, and the nomenclature gets confusing when you’re trying to translate. I can imagine that someone (Anglophone, that is) who is allergic to all nuts would use the same phrase as I did. The waitress clearly assumed that I knew a) less French and b) less about food than I do, because when I tried to explain that it was only walnuts that caused me problems, she went into a lengthy description about how many things can contain traces of other nuts blah blah blah and I ended up ordering the nougat glacé instead of the pralinémousse and she still asked me if the chestnuts in the dessert would be ok (although strangely, no mention of the almonds). At any rate, I thoroughly enjoyed it, and Nick’s much more simply ordered tarte tatin was one of the best I’ve tasted, with a thick layer of deeply caramelized apples and a bowl of crème fraîche on the side to offset the sweetness.

We left the restaurant with full bellies and smiles on our faces, knowing we were going to sleep very well that night.

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9 responses

Mmm. Sounds like a yummy meal. And definitely a good deal at 33 euros if the food was good!

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Colleen(20:47:52) :

Oh man, I’m SO freaking jealous of that cheese tray. I’d pay 33 euros just to have the chance to try all those cheeses at once. Awesome. And marrons glaces was probably my fave discovery in France; I’ll have to beg you to bring me back a small can…or maybe we’ll just hoof it over there and I can sample all these delicious meals…

This looks like perfect winter food. Maybe my cooking problem right now is that I haven’t embraced the season enough. I’ve been feeling lazy about cooking, and winter is a time where cooking takes a little more effort. I’ll just have to make a stew this weekend.

Okay…so I want you to know that I’m the worst blogger “friend” evah…every time I read your posts (at work) – on Google reader, I try to respond, but can’t. DAMN work web blocker software…
This meal looks AMAZING.
Love ALL your posts as per…hoping you’re still living/loving the life.
Vive la france, girl!
xxx
jodycakes

An old line, it sure applies; so many restaurants, so little time. I will be visiting Paris soon and Astier was already on my maybe list; but You moved it up to probable. Thanks so much!

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charidot(17:50:30) :

I ate at Astier 2 days ago and, amazingly, chose exactly the same items as Nick. It was tres agreable! I hadn’t reservered but they fitted me in (I started before the place filled up. Wonderful atmosphere, friendly, attentive and helpful staff. I love the cusiine traditionelle.

I hadn’t heard of Astier before but came across it by chance as it was only 2 minutes from my hotel. I passed it by on the first evening but after a disappointing meal elswhere I decided to give it a try on the second night as it looked authentic. It was a good find!