Description

This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish. One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!

Location

As you stand looking at west face of the quarry, the Taboo area is located on the right side of the steep granite walls. Taboo is the striking left-facing dihedral that begins about 80 feet off of the ground. To the lower right of the corner there is a light-colored large rock scar. There are a few different approach pitches that lead to the base of Taboo, I used Original Sin (11b). Original Sin is obvious because it begins off a ledge you and your belayer must scramble up on and it climbs obvious chipped pockets and jugs-and its fun. With a 70m rope you can link any of the approach routes with the Taboo dihedral and lower back down to the ground.

Protection

4 bolts protect off the midway belay ledge/anchors, and then nuts and doubles of cams from tips to off-fingers. (purple#0's to red#4's in metolius) Use draws/slings to elimiate drag in this steep corner.Ring anchors at the top of the crack- no finishing traverse to the left needed. You'll also need extra draws to lead the bolted approach pitches.