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Perfecting I BY CAROLE WALTER Learn to make a classic apple pie with a wonderfully flaky crust 64 FINE COOKING t's not Thanksgiving without apple pie, and this classic version is my absolute favorite. The filling is lovely: a blend of sweet Cortlands and tangy Granny Smiths, laced with just enough sugar and spice to make the apples' flavors sing. But as you'll discover when you try the recipe, it's the crust that makes this pie so special. Delicate, light, and exceptionally flaky, it's everything a pie crust should be. I truly believe that the most delicious pies are the ones you make yourself, so it's unfortunate that making pie from scratch tends to inspire so much fear. Throughout my years of teaching baking classes, I've watched countless studentsmany of them excellent, self-assured cooks-grip their rolling pins so tightly that their knuckles turn white when it's time to roll out the dough. So my first word of advice is simply this: Relax. With a bit of practice and the step-by-step recipe on the facing page, you'll soon be mixing and rolling out dough with confidence. The pie recipe may look time-consuming, but it really isn't. It's long because I've covered all the little details, so you won't be left guessing what to do. Photos: Scott Phillips