PEORIA — Tucked into a small shopping center near the Knoxville Avenue end of Pioneer Parkway is a new Chinese restaurant, filling a vacancy left by a long-running one in its place.

But Ying's Garden is a more-than-welcome replacement, boasting a quiet atmosphere, speedy service and a few delightful food choices, a friend and I found on a recent visit. The decor is understated, but not all that different from a typical Chinese restaurant, with the swinging door to the kitchen visible throughout the dining area, coming open fast and frequently for the delivery of orders.

It took little time for the first bit of the order to arrive, a bowl of the egg drop soup ($1.65). I've been fighting the cough that's going around, and the thick and aromatic broth here certainly did a credible job of helping out, as did the complimentary pot of hot tea.

We also sampled the fried dumplings ($4.95 for an order of eight) which managed not just an excellent and uniform exterior, but also to be the perfect size. In my experience, some places skimp and go small, others are quite large and are a meal unto themselves. These were just right at about two bites apiece, with the bonus of including well-seasoned meat and managing a wrapping that isn't too doughy without being insubstantial.

Yes, I can be a bit picky about my dumplings.

For the main course, I tried one of the items listed as a chef's special, the pan-fried noodles ($10.95). Thick and crispy noodles form the base of this dish, also served with some rice on the side. The noodles are covered with an assortment of chicken, beef, pork and shrimp along with some of the freshest vegetables I've had since people stopped bringing overflow crops in from their gardens to share at work. The savory brown sauce it's served in had a mouth-watering tang and picked up all the diverse flavors in the dish.

My friend tried the cashew chicken ($8.35 for a large order), and was well pleased with the tender chicken and corresponding crunch of the celery, water chestnuts and other vegetable accompaniments. Unlike some spots, the cashews here were mere second-fiddle, not overloading the dish in full chunks to compete with the meat but rather thinner slices sprinkled lightly throughout.

The restaurant also offers an array of lunch specials with fried rice and egg roll, all for $5.15, and the other menu options are Chinese standards, though with a few slightly atypical additions like lobster fried rice or lo mein ($5.15 or $7.45, small or large).

With the brisk service and excellent flavors, it's well worth a stop in or a carry-out.

Chris Kaergard can be reached at 686-3135 or ckaergard@pjstar.com. Follow him on Twitter @ChrisKaergard