I haven't posted for awhile, because (for awhile) my Jeep has been sitting in front of a friend's house with the engine 75% disassembled due to a coolant leak. While removing the water pump, we were told that 99% of the time a coolant leak would pop up behind the timing cover once the water pump gasket was replaced, so it would be good to change them both.

When wrenching the crap out of the bolts, one snapped inside the timing cover. Finally got that taken care of today by drilling the crap out of it.

So, now I'm down a bolt. I thought I would grab a whole set, but wanted to ask the mighty members of the forum first about what size (and where) I should purchase as replacements.

I haven't posted for awhile, because (for awhile) my Jeep has been sitting in front of a friend's house with the engine 75% disassembled due to a coolant leak. While removing the water pump, we were told that 99% of the time a coolant leak would pop up behind the timing cover once the water pump gasket was replaced, so it would be good to change them both.

When wrenching the crap out of the bolts, one snapped inside the timing cover. Finally got that taken care of today by drilling the crap out of it.

So, now I'm down a bolt. I thought I would grab a whole set, but wanted to ask the mighty members of the forum first about what size (and where) I should purchase as replacements.

Jeep is a 1998 ZJ 5.2L.

U snapped my belt tension bolt and it was ten bucks a piece as well I stripped the top not on the PS pump and one on the trans pan another 6 bucks there so I played 4 bucks to get into the jy and not like 8 of each for free and got a new fender lol

Often, studs can be cut-to-order from suitable threaded rod, but I prefer to use CRES, brass, or bronze - using zinc-plated carbon steel requires that you then dress the cut ends, since that's exposed steel and the stud would "hollow out" if it starts rusting (since I prefer to replace water-involved fasteners with brass or bronze anyhow, that works out. CRES threaded rod is harder to find.)

Using those fractional callouts, you should be able to pick up replacement screws at the hardware store or Fastenal - if you have a hardware store you can trust to not stock Chinese crap. However, note that hardware stores usually have screws over 1" long in increments of 1/4", so you may need to buy flat washers to keep the screws from bottoming out in blind holes. The typical flat washer runs 0.030"-0.040" thick; 1/16"=0.0625", 1/8"=0.125". The typical flat washer is about 1/32" thick - 1/32" = 0.03125"

(Yeah, it gets helpful to know these conversions offhand - but you can also usually find a small rule in the Tools section of the hardware store that has these listed on the back - along with common tap drill sizes and the like. If you see one, buy it!)

If you want stainless studs and are fine with having them fully threaded you can grab some set screws at a nut and bolt store. My local place stocks stainless set screws up to at least a couple inches. They also have a nice allen socket on the end for easy removal. I've used them for exhaust studs (3/8 x 1.5") and valve cover studs (1/4 x 1") on other engines. I think they ran about 20 to 50 cents each.