2002 mpv when <20 degrees runs & shifts rough code P0113, more

Had many problems resulting in the replacement of MAF, ECT, throttle valve, cam position sensors, idle solonoid, PVC hose and valve and just for hahas all the ignition coils and intke/plenum gaskets.

Finally got it to run nice and then on the first cold day it idled and ran rough, shifted very hard, the CEL, battery, and TC off lights on the dash came on, the OVD off light started blinking, and code P0113 was thrown. Once the sun came out and it warmed up above 20 degrees, it started to run fine and all the lights on the dash went out. Replaced the MAF with another on the next cold day in case we had a bad one - but same problem. The engine warms up fine and maintains steady temp so not thinking its the ECT.

I am a bit concerned as the aftermarket MAFs did not fit int he original intake housing. Finaly had to buy a $180 unit from carquest that was supposedly OEM - it still ahd the bigger MAF - but came with a complete new intake housing that fit between the air filter and the throttle body. Could this new MAF be the wrong one for this year? Any other thoughts? Running out of options and nearesdt Mazda dealer is 60 miles away.

I'm having a similiar problem. I have had the engine light on for some time. My codes have come up showing the PO113 and the MAF, coil, etc. I've changed the coil, pcv hose. Just recently when I engage the car in reverse the battery light and the O/D off light blink on and off.it occasionally has some rough shifting. It's gotten chilly around here but San Antonio doesn't really get super cold. Let me know if you find the fix - all solution.

Good Luck.

Lisa L.

I'm having a similiar problem. I have had the engine light on for some time. My codes have come up showing the PO113 and the MAF, coil, etc. I've changed the coil, pcv hose. Just recently when I engage the car in reverse the battery light and the O/D off light blink on and off.it occasionally has some rough shifting. It's gotten chilly around here but San Antonio doesn't really get super cold. Let me know if you find the fix - all solution.

I am having the exact same problem. We were told by a Mazda dealer that it was the alternator - $700 dollars later - lights still are coming on. Now our mechanic told us to go back to the dealer and see if the computer needs to be 'flashed'. Or, we would need a new PCM (I think this is the name) and it will be $500 used or about $1100 new just for the part.

I am having the exact same problem. We were told by a Mazda dealer that it was the alternator - $700 dollars later - lights still are coming on. Now our mechanic told us to go back to the dealer and see if the computer needs to be 'flashed'. Or, we would need a new PCM (I think this is the name) and it will be $500 used or about $1100 new just for the part.

6 Suggested Answers

I have a corolla and had #4 cylinder misfire also diagnosed at
autozone. After changing the spark plugs, problem persisted, along with the same error code, so they
recommended changing the spark plug wires, and that is what fixed
it. I would have changed the rotor cap too, but was low on dough. Glad that was not the problem.

I had the same cold start/ rough idle problem. The dealer spent 6 different sessions on this, costing me about $1800 total, before I saw the online discussion of lower intake manifold gasket. The shop was skeptical, but I authorized the gasket replacement alone (they wanted to replace the PCM!) That was it! Unfortunately they refused to adjust the unneeded repairs, parts and diagnosis even partly, but the cold start problem is solved, and my Mazda has a lot of new parts, sigh!

You might access the Engine Control Module (ECM) using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car, in order to pull out all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) memored. Also through "parameters measurements" menu check the upstream & downstream oxygen sensors voltage values - for bank1 & bank2 of V6 engine. For upstream oxygen sensors you should have a permanent fluctuation of voltage between 0,1 Volts and 0,9 Volts. For downstream oxygen sensors you should have a constant voltage value around 0,4 Volts. I suspect bad upstream oxygen sensor(s), but obligatory scan first the ECM memory and check oxygen sensors voltage!

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Related Questions:

codes p 300 is a random/ multiple misfire===causes spark plugs---HT leads ---injectors/s--ignition coil/s--low compression---wiring
codes p 301,303,305 are misfires detected for no 1,3 5 cylinders === causes listed are engine mechanical fault---wiring---ignition/fuel systems ---injectors---ECT/MAF sensors---ECM
You do not mention if this is a v6 engine in which case no 1,3 5 will be all in the one bank head
With the loud ticking noise that amounts to a mechanical fault associated with that bank
could be loose valve seat inserts , cam lobes failure or cam follower failure or hydraulic lifters problem even loose cam shaft bearings / caps
I would be inclined to remove the rocker cover and check for metal , loose bolts , excessive valve clearance before I went plugs etc
the main indicator for the answer is the loud ticking noise which indicates a valve train problem which will cause the rough running

Intake air senor, did you plug it back in. On the plenum between the air filter and throttle body. They rarely go bad. If plugged in , check for a broken wire right behind the plug. they break inside the coating.

Low temperature results in a high signal voltage. When the PCM sees a signal voltage higher than 5 volts, it sets this P0113 check engine light code.

P0118 - Theengine coolant temperature (ECT) sensoris a thermistor screwed into a coolant passage in the cylinder head. Sensor resistance is high when coolant temperature is low and resistance drops when coolant temperature increases. The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor. The PCM monitors voltage drop to determine coolant temperature. If the ECT reads less than freezing temp. when engine has been running for more than a few minutes, the PCM determines a circuit fault and sets this code. Or if the PCM determines the sensor resistance is out of specs, this code is set.Potential Symptoms

yea id definately try cleaning ur throttle body 1st. My 03 1500hd had the exact same bad idle after my battery went bad it would die at lights unless i kept foot on gas i cleaned throttle body runs perfect now took 30min cost 8$ for cleaner at autozone and theres how to videos on you tube

The common faults on this engine are EGR valve and IAC valve. The
EGR causes rough running and cutting out, The IAC causes just
cutting out without the rough running, stalling at junctions etc is the
usual complaint.If you pm me the cars reg, chassis no etc i could
see if i could email you the manual its a pdf so should be quite
straight forward.

P0113 is air temp circuit high. The maf sensor (mass air flow) sensor just measures the amount of air entering the engine. The iat (intake air temp) sensor is the one that detects the temperature of the air.
Change that sensor, and the code should disappear. It is located in the intake manifold or air plenum.