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I have an annoying problem. My commuting wheels are OP/DA 7900 hubs but my race wheels are carbon tubular/SL211 SuperLight rear hub. The annoying problem is the inability to simply change wheels and go; I have am forced to adjust my RD, which usually ends up with me mucking it. I have studied, much to no good, the specs for both hubs in a hope of deducing a method off installing the cassette on the BHS hub such this the cassette is in line with the DA7900 free hub.

Question 1: am I on the right track in that I could insert a spacer behind the cassette on the BHS hub in order to push it out and in line with the DA7900 hub?Question 2: referencing "freespoke" (and/or other sources) and the BHS site, what spacer width would I use?Question 3: any other alternatives beyond electric trimming and me becoming more proficient (mainly b/c my pit wheels are my OP/DA7900 wheels)

A quick follow up before I try adding an additional 1mm spacer, do I run the risk of snapping the cassette off the hub? I rarely use the 11t cog. Also when experimenting with both spacers, the end of the cassette looks almost identical to the DA setup and feels secure without the lock ring. I feel that a Mavic spacer would be a perfect match, 1.85mm spacer

Eric, I too run a 1mm spacer behind a Red cassette on the SL211 hub. However, I can tell you that an 11 Shimano cassette will not fit on the SL211 freehub. I thought it might, so I gave it a try last night, but the 11t cog will not catch the splines of the freehub at all. BHS now has an 11 speed Shimano hub, but no 11 speed conversion freehubs.

@headwind:I would leave your cassette spacers alone if things have been working properly. The reason for discrepancy in rear shifting is different distances between the high cassette cog (small) and your drive side outer locknut or end cap. I've solved this problem by adding drive side spacers or filing down a locknut to a narrower width. Try measuring with a caliper the distance from dropout to 11t on both hubs with the wheel on the bike. Correct spacing as necessary until these distances are equal.

@captainclarko - for clarification, the shifting is fine specific to each hub. The issue is switching between wheels/hubs. With two 1mm spacers behind the cassette on the SL211 hub, the chain line matches up 95% and requires zero RD adjustment. The 11t feels secure on the hub groove too. I am able to secure the lock ring.

I understand what you are suggesting. Alternatively I would like to place an additional hub washer behind the free body, but I cannot seem to be able to remove it. I am two 5mm metric wrenches, but I can only remove the NDS side. I must be overlooking something. I wish Brandon had a tech section on his site.