Will you give a discount to those who have already purchased the twin cylinder model?
Any more news on when the 4 cylinder one will be available?

Thanks,

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The end of this year is still my target for the 4-cylinder version. There is always some variability in development schedules. Especially in this case because a manufacturer is building a custom 4-channel sensor for me.

The first batch of 4-cylinder units will be sold at a discounted introductory price.

Howdy,
Honestly I'm not sure if it will work on the R60. The Harmonizer measures the difference in intake vacuum. Some early airheads didn't have vacuum nipples anywhere between the head and the throttle slide or butterfly. If the bike doesn't have vacuum nipples, it won't work without adding them.

The tach works by measuring the frequency of the vacuum pulses to calculate RPM.

Well, just found this via UKGSer and have ordered after reading Steptoe's glowing testimonial.

I've only just started doing this job myself and built a basic manometer which I was very pleased with, given the results I got. However, it's not a particularly convenient thing to keep/store and I think the harmoniser will be a good step up as I learn to do this properly.

I am using my homemade 6' manometer w automatic tranny fluid. Very sensitive, but takes a little while to do well and with the heat buildup the vacuum tubes can try to collapse. They can succeed.

I would be interested to hear from people who formerly used a homemade manometer. Is the Harmonizer as sensitive to get right on? Does it make life easier?

This device does not eliminate the need for cable high speed adjustment, does it?

How does one adjust on the road, or do you only get a reading on the road?

Sorry for the noob questions, but with the fluid manometer, obviously you cannot ride with it, and the routine was idle adjustment with BBAS and then high speed adj with the cable adj.

Thanks for any insight.

John

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The Harmonizer resolves to 1 millibar. That is roughly equal to 0.4 inch difference on a homemade manometer. I think you will agree that it's very difficult to get the balance closer than that with a liquid manometer. Even if it were possible, you would not be able to tell any difference in the way the motor performed.

The Harmonizer does not eliminate the need for higher-rpm cable adjustments. For your oilhead the routine would remain the same. Adjust the air screws for idle balance and idle speed, then perform a higher RPM balance by cable adjustment.

Although it is possible to obtain readings while under power, I can't recommend using the Harmonizer while underway due to potential safety/liability reasons. But nobody listens to me

I would be interested to hear from people who formerly used a homemade manometer. Is the Harmonizer as sensitive to get right on? Does it make life easier?

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I have gone from using a water-filled manometer setup to the Harmonizer. I like the new tool better. It resolves pretty damn well, and shows similar small reactions when I nudge a BBS or throttle stop as do the water tubes. A BIG benefit is that I don't have to deal with water sucked into the engine through the tubes when I start up and get a lopsided intake stroke. I made up my water tubes after junking the execrable TwinMax, but think I'll be pretty happy with the Harmonizer.

Kidding of course. fired up the bike and couldn't believe how easy it was to use to adjust. Much much more accurate and easy compared to my manometer.

One question. While off idle I got it to center easily (was only off 15 milibar to begin with so the manometer wasn't terrible) I notice at idle the centering line is way off to the right. Is that normal? If not, have any ideas on whats up?