Union Square takes a bow

All the world's a stage at San Francisco's favorite shopping stop

This year, shopping is especially sweet at the heart of San
Francisco's retail district, with the remodeled Union Square
starring as a prettier, sleeker holiday queen.

The goddess Victory, modeled after Alma Spreckels and perched on
the towering 1903 Dewey Monument in the middle of the square,
remains in her original glory. But the $25 million update, unveiled
in July, has a wider expanse of patterned granite hardscape, with
greenery relegated to the perimeter. The dark, overgrown hedges
have been removed, allowing freer access.

In effect, the new Union Square is like a stage in the middle of
the city, with shoppers as the actors.

So with all eyes watching, get into the spirit: Walk the
square's perimeter for unrivalled window-shopping. Check out the
giant toys at
FAO Schwarz (48 Stockton St.; 415/394-8700). Ogle the
square's 80-foot-tall fir, lit November 29. (Candle lightings take
place every night November 29-December 6.)

For true fête-ing, get out your hat and gloves for
afternoon tea at
Rotunda, Neiman Marcus's atrium overlooking the store's own
bedecked pine (150 Stockton; 415/362-4777). Or splurge on an
elaborate three-tiered high tea, with or without a glass of
sparkling wine, at the
Compass Rose in the opulent Westin St. Francis (335 Powell
St.; 415/774-0167).

For excellent lunch or dinner fare that's a bit more casual,
Kuleto's (221 Powell; 415/397-7720) is a good choice, with
classic Italian and California dishes. Sit at the long Italian
marble bar (it survived the 1906 San Francisco earthquake before
being moved to this location), and soak up the convivial
atmosphere.

Local workers duck into
Mocca for delicious lunches (175 Maiden Lane; 415/956-1188).
Nearby, you can view Frank Lloyd Wright's sole San Francisco
building, now an art gallery,
Xanadu Gallery: Folk Art International (140 Maiden Lane;
415/392-9999). The swirling interior has been likened to Wright's
later design of New York's Guggenheim Museum.

For nightlife, try
Biscuits & Blues (401 Mason St.; 415/292-2583). Or visit
the square's new half-price ticket booth for discounts at the many
good theaters nearby (TIX Bay Area; 415/433-7827). After spending
your day on a kind of stage, it might be refreshing to take a
backseat in the audience.