Stunning frescoes are only part of the treasure; the backstories are the real delight

The birth of the haveli can be traced to the rise of the Marwaris. In the 15th century, Rao Shekhaji (1433-88), baron of the Shekhawat sub-clan of the Kachhwaha dynasty, conquered a vast region north of Amer, which was called Shekhawati. Over time, his descendants set up smaller thikanas (fiefdoms). Around this time, the Silk Route was in decline and this community from the deserts of Marwar started moving in quest of trade. By the early 19th century, they settled at the ports of Bombay and Calcutta and started amassing their fortunes.

Yet, there were three major forces that kept pulling them back to Marwar—weddings, religious ceremonies and their palatial ancestral homes. The haveli was to the baniya (merchant) what the gadh (fort) was to the Rajput. Strewn across 13,784sqkm, hundreds of painted havelis sought to outdo the other, making Shekhawati the largest open-air gallery in Rajasthan.

The stories

The havelis earned their splendour through backbreaking effort. Mural painting was an elaborate process, involving different materials, layers and techniques. Scenes depicted cover 10 broad themes—decorative designs, daily life, religion, raga mala, folk mythology, historical events or personalities, flora and fauna, erotica, maps or places, and the British and their contraptions. Most chhatris or domes include a rasamandala in the ceiling—a dancing circle in which Krishna miraculously replicates himself so each Gopi finds him dancing next to her.

Besides popular love stories such as Laila–Majnu and Heer–Ranjha, Shekhawati’s murals have a recurrent theme of a couple astride a camel portraying Rajasthan’s most popular romantic tale—Dhola–Maru. Married off as kids, Dhola returns as an adolescent to fetch his wife. En route, they encounter bandits Umra–Sumra, and like a true Rajput wife, Maru repels the attackers while Dhola urges his camel onwards. Paintings also represent lesser-known folk tales of Binjo–Sorath. Binjo mesmerises his young aunt Sorath with his veena as she dances to his tunes. Sassi–Punu recounts the legend of Punu, a prince who weds Sassi, an abandoned princess raised among washermen. Tragically, Punu is kidnapped and Sassi dies in search of him in the desert.

The colours

Before the 19th century, artists used natural colours such as lampblack, and red, green and yellow ochres. Lime was a substitute for white and was used for lightening other hues, while indigo, ultramarine, vermilion, verdigris, gold and silver were reserved for prayer rooms and bedrooms. The Indian Yellow, made from gomutra or urine collected from cows fed on mango leaves, was used, albeit rarely. In 1860, German chemical pigments such as ultramarine, chrome red and emerald green reached India and remained popular till World War I, until supplies were hit. (Inspired by ‘Made in Germany’ paint tins, many painters randomly emblazoned the word ‘Germany’ to depict anything English!) Maroon was popular from 1820 to 1865, red and blue held sway between 1860 and 1910, and multi-coloured paintings using cheap European paints dominated the years from 1900 to 1950.

No two havelis in Shekhawati are similar. Each has a story:

Piramal Haveli

The Piramal Haveli, now converted into a hotel, has two pillared courtyards with colourful wall tiles. Photo: Anurag Mallick

If you believe folklore, Shekhawati at one point had 22 ‘crorepatis’. Some of India’s most prosperous business families have their roots here: the Oswals, Mittals, Ruias, Lohias, Birlas, Goenkas, Singhanias and Agarwals, to name a few. The Piramal Haveli in Bagar belonged to one such family. It was built in 1928 by Seth Piramal Chaturbhuj Makhania, who made a fortune in Bombay, trading cotton, silver and opium. The haveli has a large garden and two pillared courtyards with colourful wall tiles and kitsch frescoes of flying angels and gods in motorcars! The presence of the British in Jaipur since 1803 finds ample reflection in the murals. Today, restored by the Neemrana group, it is the most accessible Shekhawati palace hotel from Delhi. (+91-01592-221220-21, +91-9310630386. Website)

Dundlod Fort

The Dundlod Fort is a popular location for film shoots, including JP Dutta’s Ghulami. Photo: Anurag Mallick

In 1750, Thakur Kesri Singhji chose the site for Shivgarh Fort at the behest of local saint Dundlu Maharaj and named the village Dundlod. The beautiful diwankhana (assembly hall) has paintings of maharajas astride famous horses. Current owner Kanwar Raghavendra Singh (Bonnie Bana), who sourced 25 Marwari horses for the 1978 TV series The Far Pavilions, ended up buying them after the shoot! With partner Francesca Kelly, he runs Royal Equestrian & Polo Centre, organising riding holidays across Rajasthan. The Dundlod Fort is a popular location for film shoots. The old well (Sethon ka Kua) and town square doubled as a Partition-era market in Pinjar. JP Dutta’s film Ghulami too was shot here. (+91-9829212176, +91-9414208518. Website)

Seth Arjundas Goenka Haveli (museum)

This now-restored haveli showcases old artefacts and merchant life in the 19th century. Photo: Anurag Mallick

This one, also in Dundlod, is a beautifully restored 1875 haveli. Its 20 rooms showcase old artefacts and merchant life in the 19th century. The richly carved fortified gate leads to the mardana (men’s quarter), an outer courtyard for visitors. Life-size clay figures depict the merchant, customers and punkha-walla, who manned the ceiling fans. He was usually deaf and mute to ensure that business dealings remained secret. The inner courtyard or zenana recreates household scenes with large vessels, ladies at the chakki (stone wheel), cooks rolling out chapatis in the rasoi (kitchen) and earthen pitchers in a paniyada (narrow water storage room). (Contact Mohan Goenka, the caretaker: +91-9884053841)

Roop Niwas Kothi

Founded by Thakur Nawal Singhji in 1737, Nawalgarh stands on an erstwhile grazing ground for horses but is among the most modern towns in Shekhawati. Wrapped by a parkota (high wall), the town is marked by four pols (gates): Bawadi, Mandi, Agoona and Nansa Darwajas. When the town outgrew these confines, Roop Niwas Kothi or Rawal Sahab Ki Kothi, an old country house on a 100-acre patch, became the family’s favoured retreat. The heritage resort has an impressive stable of Marwari horses and is owned by Bhanwar Devendra Singh, who runs Royal Riding Holidays. (+91-1594-222008. Website)

Morarka Haveli & Uttara Haveli

Nawalgarh’s Morarka Haveli was built by Jairam Dasji Morarka in the latter half of the 18th century. After years of disuse, its renovation began in 2004 under conservation expert Dr Hotchand. Over 700 frescoes and 160 sculpted doors and window—charred by smoke, dust and dirt—were restored using traditional methods. Another renovated mansion nearby, Uttara Haveli, was built in 1890 by Kesardev Morarka. As the family did not dwell here long, it was opened for transiting relatives during functions. It was dubbed Uttaron ki Haveli (house of those who come and go), which later morphed into Uttara Haveli. (+91-9649578317. Website)

Dr Ramnath A Podar Haveli Museum

The museum has several interesting galleries on Rajasthani lifestyle, art, architecture and more. Photo: Anurag Mallick

Philanthropist Anandilal Podar built the haveli in 1902, which was converted into a museum and a centre for art, culture and heritage by his grandson Kantikumar R Podar. Restoring 750 frescoes spread over 11,200sqm, he named the museum in memory of his father, Ramnath A Podar. It has several interesting galleries on Rajasthani lifestyle, musical instruments, festivals, jewellery, miniature paintings, handicrafts, forts, palaces, bridal costumes and artworks in stone, wood and marble, besides turbans! (+91-1594-225446. Website)

Ramgarh Fresco Hotel

In the 18th century, when the state of Bikaner started levying ‘excessive’ taxes, the Agrawal community of Podars left the territory and founded a new town 16km south, with help from the Rao Raja of Sikar. In order to differentiate it from other Ramgarhs, they called it Ramgarh Sethan or Sethon ka Ramgarh (Ramgarh of wealthy merchants), vowing to outshine their former home. True to their word, Ramgarh reflects the wealth they amassed and spent to beautify their havelis. Today, this town has the largest number of frescoes in Shekhawati. The Khandelwal family converted the century-old Khemka Haveli into the Ramgarh Fresco Hotel and organises walking tours around the painted town. (+91-9971133230. Website)

Sawalka Haveli

Ramgarh’s biggest mansion was built in defiance of the Podars. Being old settlers, the Podars didn’t allow the Sawalkas into their territory, so Motilal Sawalika built a magnificent abode smack outside the city gates! A short walk away is the Shani temple built by Gurudayal Khemka in 1840. The porch ceiling depicts mythological themes, while mirror work on the interior walls was done using glass brought from Belgium and Persia around 1850.

The earliest depictions of Europeans in frescoes are as army officers and troops. In mid-19th century, they started getting machines for company—paddle steamers and cargo boats that plied along the Ganga. In 1872, nearly 20 years after locomotives started running in India, they made their first mural debut. It was the perfect frieze to divide a wall horizontally, and the train fad caught on, sometimes even showing erotica in the carriages! By the end of the 19th century, modern-age contraptions shared wall space with camels and elephants. Western women were depicted listening to gramophones or playing netball.

Narain Niwas Castle, Mahansar

The lofty Narain Niwas Castle was built in 1768 by Nawalgarh’s founder, Thakur Nawal Singh, for his second son, Thakur Nahar Singh. Today, Thakur Maheshwar Singh, the eighth-generation descendant, runs it as a simple heritage hotel. Nearby is one of the best painted havelis of Shekhawati. The Sone Chandi ki Dukan or Golden Room was built in 1846 inside a Podar haveli. The haveli gets its name from the gold and silver leaf used for decorating its walls. The vibrant frescoes show intricately rendered scenes from the Ramayana, the life of Krishna and the incarnations of Vishnu. (+91-15952-64761, +91-992827699. Website)

The havelis of Mandawa

Being an old trading outpost on the Delhi–Bikaner route, Mandawa prospered greatly, and its 175 havelis are ample proof. Perhaps the best specimens are Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli and the Murmuria Haveli with its bizarre East-meets-West theme. Thakur Nawal Singh built Castle Mandawa in 1755, and the rooms in its zenana display antique murals, objects in marble with antique armour, and family portraits showcased in the diwankhana (drawing room). (+91-141374112; Website)

Nandlal Devra Haveli

Originally built in 1802 by the Devras, the richest family of silk traders at the court of the local ruler, the Nandlal Devra Haveli was purchased in 1998 by artist Nadine le Prince, a descendant of French painter Jean-Baptiste le Prince. Nadine restored its frescoes with the help of local artists and opened a cultural centre that exhibits her artworks alongside those by French and Indian modern artists. Next door, the 200-year-old Saraf Haveli has original paintings with Belgian glass inlay, though it is marred by a provision store run by the caretaker inside! (+91-1571233024. Website)

Alsisar Mahal

The opulent Alsisar Mahal doubles as the venue for the Magnetic Fields festival. Photo: Anurag Mallick

This recounts the legend of two sisters, Alsi and Malsi. Unable to bear a taunt aimed at his sisters, who went to draw water from the village well, Nawal Singh abandoned his field and vowed not to eat or drink till he dug his own well. The Bhan siblings dug through the night until they struck water. Alsi settled down at this sar (water source) which was called Alsisar, while Malsi moved to a nearby place, thus named Malsisar. Besides Alsisar Mahal, the site of the Magnetic Fields festival, the town has numerous temples, wells, cenotaphs, dharamsalas and mansions such as Indra Vilas, a 100-room haveli set in a 10-acre compound, built by Indrachand Kejriwal in 1595. Jhunjhunuwala Ki Haveli, built by Seth Kasturimal 170 years ago, has two rooms with inimitable mural paintings. (+91-1595245271, +91-1412368290. Website)

Next: 25 Rajasthan hotels no one’s told you about:

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Nahargarh, Ranthambhore

Located just next to the national park, this Rajput-inspired hunting palace is surrounded by a 16th-century style fortress. Everything about it feels special, from the stepwell-like pool with stone carvings of elephants to the horse-saddle stools at Lancer’s Bar. With 100 palatial rooms, some with courtyards and some with terraces, this is a great setting for a wedding, while two spacious conference halls also make it a good place to conduct business. Owned by the Alsisar family, which runs a number of heritage projects in the state, the property has added a spa, which offers a variety of ayurvedic treatments. Getting there: Nahargarh is about 150km from Jaipur; contact Ranthambhore Safari & Tours (Website) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs12,000)

Fateh Safari Lodge, Kumbhalgarh

Visit this family-owned boutique hotel for the stunning scenery around it. The 35-room property, built 1,100m above sea level, provides uninterrupted views of the Aravalli range, which give way to the charming village of Narlai. The constant weather changes here—it turns sunny to cloudy in a matter of minutes—only make the place that much more enchanting. While you’re there, make sure you check out the area’s famous fort and Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, which is home to some fascinating creatures—hyenas, sloth bears, leopards, the rare chinkara and numerous birds. Night drives here are truly magical. Getting there: The lodge is about 200km from Jodhpur; contact Dilip Singh (096601 44830) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs15,000 for a two-night stay)

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SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace, Jaipur

Belonging to the royal family of Jaipur, this 18th-century palace is one of Rajasthan’s best-loved luxury accommodation options, having hosted the likes of Queen Elizabeth and Jackie Kennedy over the years. In its modern avatar, it features pastel hues and printed wallpapers that are blended lovingly with old family heirlooms. To say that every corner here is Instagram-worthy is not an overstatement. What’s more, each room, from the Champa Room to the Kennedy Suite, has its own personality and colour palette. Enjoy a drink at the Polo Bar, eat fine European cuisine at The Oriental Occident, swim in the Art Deco style pool or get a massage at the lovely SUJÁN spa. (Website; doubles from Rs49,000)

Bal Samand Lake Palace and Garden Retreat, Jodhpur

Just 5km outside the main city, this 17th-century palace has long been a favourite spot with Jodhpur’s royal family, especially during the rainy season. And it’s really not hard to see why: sprawled across 60 acres, the red sandstone structure sits pretty above the pristine lake with which it shares its name. Pomegranate orchards and gardens make up the rest of the private estate. The rooms feature bright, colourful interiors in the warm tones that Rajasthan is known for, but with facilities like a nine-hole mini golf course, horse carriage rides and trips to sand dunes on offer, you won’t spend too much time indoors. (Website; doubles from Rs22,000)

Fort Seengh Sagar, Deogarh

While the main mahal, near Udaipur, is the grand dame that travellers have been seeking out since the 1990s, do yourself a favour and pick this mini-fortress instead. Surrounded by a lake, this four-suite property is an idyllic spot for a family holiday. Built around a courtyard with a small pond, it has a pretty garden that’s great for a siesta. Nothing about it says hotel, and it’s all the better for it. There’s also a third outpost, Deogarh Khayyams, which consists of luxe tents spread across a remote hill; guests can go on birding and village tours. Ideally, spend two nights at Seengh Sagar and one at the campsite, and visit the palace for a meal. Getting there: Fort Seengh Sagar is about 135km from Udaipur; contact the hotel (099291 72000) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs8,500)

Udai Kothi, Udaipur

The sexy rooftop pool, from which you can stare out at Lake Pichola and the City Palace complex, is just one reason to check into this waterfront hotel. There’s also the fact that the 64 opulent rooms and suites have every modern amenity but are beautifully done in traditional style, complete with gorgeous jharokhas from which to look out at the beautiful property. The food at its multicuisine terrace restaurant is consistently good (unlike many places in the old city) and it is the only independent hotel whose boats are allowed into the lake. It’s also a great wedding venue—your guests can enjoy in-house folk music and dance performances, go on leisurely boat rides on Lake Pichola or relax at the spa. Plus, it is arguably the most sought-after venue for late-night wedding parties. (Website; doubles from Rs7,000)

The Green House Resort, Pushkar

Gorgeous Dutch roses growing all year round—it doesn’t sound possible in the desert state, right? But thanks to the greenhouses located on the premises of this boutique hotel, this is a reality. The hotel has a clear focus on eco-friendly practices, including a solar water-heating system and energy-efficient lamps. But don’t think this is a no-frills kind of place: the 20 tents are equipped with LCD TVs, most bathrooms have soaking tubs and the suites have private patios that look out on to the pool. Getting there: The resort is 20km from Ajmer railway station and 150km from Jaipur; contact the hotel (093510 18303) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs6,000)

The Mountbatten Lodge, Ranakpur

Just four enormous villas that come with pools make up this opulent Marwar hideaway. True to its name, the lodge is a vigorous nod to colonial times; guests can expect massive English breakfasts of eggs, bacon and hash browns under the shade of a 300-year-old banyan tree (even the chefs are from old Kolkata clubs). Sip Champagne as the sun goes down, while looking out at the majestic Aravallis and ride an elephant or horse through the Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, which is next door. Picnic lunches to Udaipur can also be organised. Getting there: It’s about 100km from Udaipur; contact Bob (099280 09602) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs30,000)

Bundi Vilas, Bundi

A steep, narrow alley leads you to the 40ft stone archway that is the dramatic entrance of Bundi Vilas. Managed by the Sharma family, the magnificent structure is built on a hill against the ramparts of the town palace. Miniature paintings and Rajasthani upholstery give the interiors a traditional feel, while the delightful rooftop restaurant serves Rajasthani and European fare. Getting there: It is 200km from Jaipur and 45km from Kota railway junction; contact the hotel (0747 2446 145) for road transfers (Website; doubles from Rs6,600)

Shikarbadi Hotel, Udaipur

Owned by Maharana Arvind Singh ji Mewar, the former hunting lodge, located in a quaint part of town, has a stud farm where Marwari horses are bred. All rooms face a park where nilgai, wild boars and peacocks roam free. Smart wooden interiors and old photographs of hunts give this place a true gentleman’s club vibe. (Website; doubles from Rs7,200)

Mihir Garh, near Rohet

Owner Sidharth Rohet and his wife Rashmi had a dream. They wanted to create a sand castle that paid tribute to its heritage and location, while not compromising on comfort. The resulting Mihir Garh houses nine suites that are 1,700sq ft each, with plunge pools and fireplaces. Its interiors blend the royal with the rustic to delightful effect, such as luxurious bathtubs surrounded by mud walls and a beautiful pool that overlooks the rugged landscape. Go horseback-riding or birdwatching, explore the village and attend in-house culinary workshops, lakeside picnics and bonfire-side barbecues, which recreate some of the magic of bygone hunts. Getting there: It’s about 60km from Jodhpur; contact Shyam Singh (093516 88068) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs32,000)

Connaught House, Mount Abu

This English cottage is tucked away on a quiet hill in the erstwhile summer capital of the state. The look combines tiled roofs with large glass doors that look out onto a pretty, perfectly manicured garden. The house was the residence of Jodhpur’s British chief minister during the 1930s and ’40s, and in its present incarnation, with 10 large and well-equipped rooms, provides a peaceful getaway for the entire family. Sit out in the veranda for leisurely cups of morning tea and enjoy lunch in the garden and campfire dinners. Explore the famous Delwara temples and Nakki Lake, which are both a short drive away. Getting there: Connaught House is 200km from Udaipur; contact Sher Singh Rathore (094130 59990) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs7,000)

Naila Bagh Palace, Jaipur

The massive 19th-century palace was once the home of the Rajput family of Naila. Today, the centrally located property offers a great Jaipur experience, combining heritage with modernity, great food with serene beauty. Enjoy tender mutton bhoona and melt-in-your-mouth maas ka boota, lounge by the pool, watch peacocks preen in the many courtyards and party with Jaipur’s brat pack at Club Naila. Back in the day, too, this house was known for its lively parties, with the likes of Maharani Gayatri Devi showing up for poolside festivities. Today, the club has a glass roof, an indoor swimming pool as well as a vintage chariot that serves as a bar. (Website; doubles from Rs4,200)

The Bissau Palace, Jaipur

Built in 1919, this is a great repository of Rajasthan’s history, with a huge library that houses royal portraits and armour, and beautifully done rooms that exude old-world charm. But it is also a favourite party haunt of the city’s young and restless, where Mayo College alumni rub shoulders with its current students. It started with Eklavya Singh, the son of the house, throwing parties at the palace for his friends and family. Over time, ‘Bissau Nights’ have turned into an important event in Jaipur’s social calendar. After a night of debauchery, recharge at the poolside coffee shop and, later in the day, head to the family’s farmhouse for some much-needed peace and quiet. (Website; doubles from Rs3,000)

Shahpura Bagh, Bhilwara

A working farm with a heated pool says all you need to know about that’s almost equidistant from Jaipur and Udaipur, and is easily acccessible from Jodhpur and Ranthambhore. Nine suites are spread across two residences, and they all feature beautiful interiors, with Kashmiri carpets, antiques and old family photographs. The birding haven is lush with neem and peepal trees. Go fishing or boating in the surrounding lake—and thank Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh, one of the ancestors who, back in the early 20th century, mortgaged his family’s property and jewellery to create lakes and bring water to the people. Getting there: Shahpura Bagh is about 230km from Jaipur; contact Bharat Singh (094140 74546) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs18,500)

Ramathra Fort, Karauli

Perched atop a hill overlooking a lake, this 350-year-old fort includes suites with fireplaces and high-ceilinged tents. Located in a lush belt along the Kalisil River Valley, the fort is near Ranthambhore, and its surroundings are teeming with jackals, hyenas and wild boars. Safaris are an obvious bet here, but also visit Ramathra village, home to a small community of farmers and herders, and ride a Jeep through the Daang plateau. You’ll also be able to taste the best of Rajput cuisine, including the property’s signature dish of smoked mutton or chicken cooked the way game meat used to be. Getting there: It is 180km from Jaipur; contact Ravi (ravibana@ramathrafort.com) or Gitanjali (gitanjali@ramathrafort.com) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs15,000)

Khem Villas, Ranthambhore

The team behind this chic campsite consists of Govardhan Rathore, a major name in tiger conservation and sustainable energy, and Pritam and Rachel Singh of Anokhi, Jaipur’s iconic textile brand that employs underprivileged women while making Rajasthani hand block prints a global phenomenon. Expect Anokhi’s soft fabrics and bright colours in the rooms, tents and cottages, along with bold teak furniture. The cottages have private courtyards and open-air baths. Don’t miss a river safari along the Chambal to spot turtles and crocodiles. Getting there: Khem Villas is about 200km from Jaipur; contact the hotel (094140 30262) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs12,500)

Gajner Palace, Bikaner

From nature walks and boat rides to memorable dinners out in the forest and desert safaris, the lakeside palace just 30 minutes outside Bikaner is a great base to explore the region. The former hunting lodge, which was converted into a heritage hotel back in 1976, has hosted dignitaries like the Prince of Wales and Lord Mountbatten, who’ve taken part in hunts here. From gorgeous vintage wallpapers to four-poster beds, its 13 suites continue to reflect the grandeur of a bygone era. You can even see the remnants of a railway station on the premises. Getting there: Gajner Palace is about 250km from Jodhpur; contact the hotel (0153 4275 0619) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs7,200)

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JAWAI, Bisalpur

The SUJÁN group’s foray into the rocky landscape near Jawai Dam—where Rabari tribesmen in bright turbans are quick to mind their sheep as leopards traverse its ancient temples—is hitting all the right notes. The campsite, owned by Anjali and Jaisal Singh is representative of a new ethos in Indian hospitality where subtlety has come to replace opulence. The design scheme features an unlikely combination of stainless steel furniture and locally sourced stone tiles that, surprisingly, works beautifully. And the military trunks in place of tables and cupboards in all tents are a fantastic touch. Getting there: It’s about 150km from both Jodhpur and Udaipur; contact the campsite (011 4617 2700) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs51,000)

Chhatra Sagar, Pali-Marwar district

At this property, a row of tents stand at the edge of a reservoir that’s home to a wide variety of waterfowl and migratory birds. What look like nondescript canvas structures from the outside tell a different story once you enter: colourful Rajasthani prints embellish the beds and cushions while elegant rugs dress up the floors. The food is made from fresh ingredients procured from a neighbouring farm. It’s all about casual luxury here, so sit back and relax with a sundowner and watch in wonder as the sky bursts into countless shades of pink and orange. Getting there: Chhatra Sagar is about 120km from Jodhpur; contact KD Singh (mangalgarh@gmail.com or 097828 48586) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs33,000)

Rohet Garh, Jodhpur

In 1622, this stunning house was given to Thakur Dalpat Singh I as a reward for his courage in battle. The younger generations of the family, who still own it, have engaged in a painstaking restoration process to make it a luxury retreat without forsaking its heritage appeal. The 30 rooms and six suites feature frescoes and bay windows, and peacocks dance in manicured gardens. Guests can relish dinners by the pool while watching stunning performances by folk musicians, and can take part in workshops to master traditional local cuisine. A highlight is the equestrian programme, which allows guests to ride thoroughbred Marwari horses into the wilderness, for a chance to sight the area’s famous black bucks. (Website; doubles from Rs9,500)

Hotel Udai Bilas Palace, Dungarpur

The clear waters of Gaibsagar Lake and a private forest reserve frame the grey façade that features pillars, marble carvings and grand balconies. Dotted with intricate murals, carvings and miniature paintings, this 23-room property is a great setting for an intimate wedding or a destination birthday bash with character. The Zenana Chowk, a partially open-air dining space, is lit up at night, and the poolside is great for lunch. Go boating, explore the hilly terrain or picnic amid the ruins—Dungarpur has loads to offer. Getting there: The hotel is 100km from Udaipur; contact Ashoka Tours (arundevpura@hotmail.com; 094141 57308; 099283 67308) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs9,020)

Fort Barli, Ajmer

At this heritage property, guests can enjoy traditional rituals like mehndi, get ayurvedic massages, visit an astrologer or witness the puppet shows and folk music performances that Rajasthan is known for. But there’s no skimping on modern luxuries, including massive, beautifully appointed rooms, a Royal Suite, and a gorgeous open-air pool. You can go cycling or biking around the countryside and take day trips to Pushkar and Chittorgarh. And when you want a day of doing nothing, pick up some of the board games available on-site and just chill. Getting there: Fort Barli is 180km from Jaipur; contact Kaustabh Holidays (kaustabhholidays@gmail.com; 098290 16388) for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs13,000)

Anopura, Jaipur

With only two rooms and a luxury tent available to check in to, this tiny property just outside the main city takes secluded to the next level. Which is good, because you might not want to share the secret of this country home with too many people. The beautiful space includes a garden that’s redolent with the smell of frangipani, a stepwell-like plunge pool and charming courtyard that make for great reading spots. Bicycle around the grounds or explore by camel cart or Jeep. Or do nothing but chill by the pool with a tall glass of freshly squeezed juice; we won’t judge. (Website; doubles from Rs23,000)

Savista, NH 8

That someone with really good taste opened up their home to visitors is the impression you get here. There are only 14 rooms on the 12-acre estate—a deliberate effort to retain the private, exclusive character of the property. Rooms are housed in a two-storeyed haveli that overlooks the pool. The names of the rooms (Indigo and Gulmohar, for instance) are reflected in their colour palette. Apart from yoga lessons and camel cart rides, take day trips to Pushkar and the Keoladeo National Park in Bharatpur. Getting there: Savista is 22km from Jaipur; contact the hotel for road transfers. (Website; doubles from Rs10,000)