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I have a little problem. I'm addicted to cookbooks, food writing, recipe collecting, and cooking. I have a lot of recipes waiting for me to try them, and ideas from articles, tv, and restaurants often lead to new dishes. I started losing track of what I've done. So now I'm taking photos and writing about what I've prepared—unless it's terrible in which case I forget it ever happened.

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Sunday, June 9, 2013

There was a time when I would have completely botched this dish, and it’s not a difficult thing to make. I had a track record for ruining Indian food. I’m not sure why but every time I set out to cook an Indian dish, I ended up being rushed and not paying close enough attention to measuring spices or simmering times. The results were always terrible. Even now, if I mention I’m making something Indian, Kurt’s instinct is to start looking at take-out menus. Now, I know that the problems I ran into in the past were all related to the “three p’s.” I’ve been reading Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation, and in Part II Water, Michael Pollan mentions patience, presence, and practice in cooking. You have to give each step of cooking the time it needs. Onions need to saute until softened and translucent, for instance, and not be rushed. You need to be aware of how ingredients are changing as they cook by listening to the sounds coming from the stove, smelling the ingredients as they cook, and tasting as you go. And, then, there’s practice. Practice makes perfect, or at least, practice makes you more comfortable cooking a dish when you know what to expect along the way. Slowly, but surely, I seem to be getting better at the three p’s and hopefully improving my track record. This recipe is from Saveurand couldn’t be easier so long as you give each step the time it needs.

First, you make a paste in a food processor with minced fresh ginger, garam masala, turmeric, fresh garlic, and water. Then, in large saucepan or Dutch oven, oil is heated, and coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cardamom pods, dried chiles de arbol, and a cinnamon stick are added. When fragrant, chopped onions are added. There’s a lot of onion in this dish, the recipe calls for two large yellow onions, but they cook slowly, brown nicely, and become the base layer of flavor. After the onions have started to brown, the garlic paste is added and cooked for a few minutes. Next, canned, whole tomatoes that have been roughly crushed are added and the cooking continues until the liquid from the tomatoes had reduced a bit. Tamarind paste and canned chickpeas are then added, and the stew is brought to a boil, reduced, and left to simmer for about 45 minutes. I couldn’t resist adding some chopped greens, and Kurt might be right that I add greens to everything. Last, additional garam masala, amchoor, and salt are added. I upped the spiciness with some cayenne and garnished each serving with cilantro and sliced serrano chiles.

The amount of amchoor, or green mango powder, that’s added at the end is tiny at one quarter teaspoon, but it really makes a difference. It adds a sour edge that brightens the mix of flavors. Back when I used to rush through a recipe or not plan ahead well enough, I might have skipped it. But, I get it now. Sometimes little details make a big difference, and remembering the three p’s brings about good food.

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comments:

Pollan's book is a fun read! And I agree that mindful cooking really is kind of necessary for something like Indian food if you don't make it all the time (and I certainly don't, although I love it). Anyway, nice dish - thanks.

Lisa, that is a post full of wisdom! Indeed, patience, presence and practice are everything when it comes to cooking. And I think bread baking is a very good example of that, it really rewards the baker who has the three P's under control... :-)

Indian cooking is pretty intimidating, and easy to mess up - I've been down the same route you've been... Phil also inviting me to go out for dinner when I told him I was considering some exotic daal ;-)

I cooked Indian tonight! I know what you mean - you do have to pay attention to those spice quantities or you can end up with something horrid. I once cooked a curry that had too much of something in it and it ended up being really bitter. No one could eat it. I have no idea what it was but I suspect it was the curry leaves. It said to add 5 or 6 but I added a whole handful xx

Hmmm, those three p's are applicable to much more than just cooking. I haven't tackled many Indian dishes, either- patience isn't one of my virtues so it sounds like I'd better stick with takeout. Congrats on breaking your streak of bad luch- the dish looks delicious!

I'm a huge fan of Indian food but prepare it not very often at home, suppose it is because I'm missing the three P's .The recipe looks delicious and easy to prepare. Wish me luck with the three......you know:)

Your pantry must be so well-stocked! You even have green mango powder. Sometimes I hv to skip one or two pantry ingredients in my dishes (making it less authentic in some way) just because I don't have it.

I make okay indian food but it never turns out quite as good as I'd like. I need to try this patience, presence and practice business. perhaps with this recipe because chana masala is a favorite of mine!

I really need to read this book. I have little patience in the kitchen and need to be inspired. I love Indian food and love making it but just don't make it often enough. Yet another book for me to check out!

Lisa, this sounds incredible. I cook Indian food about once a year and have had good luck. And every time I do I swear to myself I'll be cooking more of it. Then I don't. I have an Indian Market close, I must head over to see if they have green mango powder. Your photos are beautiful.