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The first people to settle on the island were Māori of the Kawerauiwi.[1] Later, members of the Ngati Paoa moved to the island, like the Kawerau partly for shark fishing[1] until about 1700, when the Kawerau regained control and remained until forced to retreat to Waikato in 1821 when Hongi Hika attacked from the north. There were two pā, Tiritiri Matangi Pā and Papakura Pā.[2]

European (Pākehā) settlers arrived in the early 19th century. When the Kawerau returned, friction ensued as both peoples had a claim to the island. In 1867 the Māori Land Court granted title to the world

A lighthouse was constructed near the southern end in 1864, and remains in operation. The island was farmed from 1894 to 1971, when the lease expired. Management was then vested in the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park Board, which ceased farming in 1972.[1]

It was hoped that native forest would regenerate naturally, making the island a suitable habitat for native bird life, as it lacked introduced predators such as mustelids present on the mainland. However, afforestation seemed to be happening very slowly and a large number of volunteers was recruited to plant saplings and sow tree seeds. Over 250,000 native trees and shrubs of over 30 different species were planted in the revegetation project from 1984 to 1994.[2]

Forest scene on Tiritiri Matangi

The next intervention was eradication in 1993 of the Polynesian rat, known to Māori as kiore, which was destroying seedlings and competing with birds for food. The kiore were killed by an aerial drop of poisoned bait, which was controversial due to its lack of planning and the effect on other wildlife. For instance, 90% of pukeko on the island were killed.[3]

Tiritiri Matangi wharf and ferry, day-trip passengers have just disembarked

A ferry service runs from Auckland Ferry Terminal[2] and Gulf Harbour, and guided tours are available. It is a popular destination for daytrippers, with trips often fully booked,[2] attracting some 30,000 visitors annually, who enjoy an intensity of birdsong rarely heard on the mainland. The island has hosted several tens of thousands of conservation volunteers.[2]