Whether it is the banking hordes fighting for space during rush hour or bargain-hunting shoppers jostling at every turn, there’s a hard-to-resist raw energy that pulses through the streets of Hong Kong. The city’s stunning skyline is a glittering reminder of Hong Kong’s towering ambitions, but it retains plenty of links to its recent colonial past, represented by British names and double-decker trams. For a city so hopelessly devoted to consumerism, it is surprisingly easy to escape urban life. Remote islands with secluded beaches are a short boat ride away and the green peaks of the New Territories boast some superb hiking trails.

Seeing as Hong Kong has one of the world’s most impressive cityscapes, it makes sense to view it from both angles: from the top of Victoria Peak, accessible by the gravity-mocking Peak Tram, and from sea level, aboard the Star Ferry that plies its trade across Victoria Harbour. Some of the city’s snazziest restaurants can be found in the district of Soho, but this area also manages to retain a Chinese-neighborhood feel, where doddery Cantonese market traders flog dried fish and herbal remedies. Those looking to lap up more of the local atmosphere should head to the horse racing at Happy Valley on a Wednesday evening, where chain-smoking gamblers put millions of dollars on each race. Nights out are rounded off by diving into the rowdy expat crowd in the bar area of Lan Kwai Fong, a steep hill rammed with bars where drinkers spill out into the street.

Hong Kong has a long history of being inhabited by foreigners, so naturally there is a thriving expat scene. It is best appreciated at the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens every March, where thousands don fancy dress and indulge in a few days of unadulterated partying. Sports opportunities abound: Dragon boat teams race all year round and there is even a boxing competition for white-collar workers to slug it out fight-club style.

Hong Kong is also an expensive place to live. Rent prices are extortionate for apartments that are often cramped at best. And think twice before forking out for a pricey pad halfway up Victoria Peak as Hong Kong is commonly shrouded in a mist that blocks the very view you pay for. At least good quality clothes are cheap thanks to an army of Indian tailors in Kowloon. Weekend escapes are easy: A quick ferry ride takes you to car-free Lamma Island, with its hiking trails and fantastic seafood restaurants.