Well, in the morning i'm starting the instal and testing of the holset i built which i've renamed the turbo and here's to what and why

H1-3558x - the name is based on having 1.) H1c CHRA - H1, then sine the turbine is hx35 sized i used that for the 35, the second digits, the "58" comes from the new hx40 style 8 blade compressor inducer diameter of 58mm, then i'm adding the "x" because it's as custom as a holset can come IMO and because I'm using so many X parts.

This is an oil cooled only turbo so i'll be eliminating water lines, but what i really want to document and put up here for others to see is the oiling system install and progress. I want everyone to see what i start with for oil pressure and what i end up with along with how my drain works to show others what the results are of everything i've been asking but have no solid answers on. I've never done a holset and can't find definitive answers as to how i should set mine up based around my system (some say restrictor, some say no, some say HUGe drain, some say the 2g and garrett combo will be ok, we will see) so i'll go along and share how i test and adjust for those who may be scared of holsets for this reason

the i'll be posting logs of spool times with the new home machined T3 .63 a/r turbine housing with the hx35 turbine spooling a 58mm ind. and 83mm exd. hx40 style wheel and housing

expect lots of pics, all camera phone of course but it's what i have in better than 2mp .

Here's the beauty as she sits now, and a list of what needs ot be done tomorrow

1.) weld on 90* outlet to comp housing
2.)finish paintand clear coat to dry while removing other turbo
3.)removing manifold and other turbo
4.) bypassing water lines and blocking off old turbo oil feed from head
5.) installing new oil feed from OFH and setting it up based on pressure
6.) thread my last fitting for the oiling setup
7.) mount holset turbo to manifold and safety wire bolts
8.) install new turbo and manifold to the block
9.) check oil feed/return and pressure and turbo inlet
10.)test drive

I'd say 8 hours for resting, dry times on paints/clears, double checking of all hoses and welding up the other BOV since i traded off the one on my car which is what prompted me to go ahead with the install

hope ya can wait till morning for me to start (i barely can but need the garage and light)

After welding the elbow on in the morning I'll repaint and clear the turbo to this color combo

EDIT: there's one thing i'd like to get to document the differences in spool and sound with and without it, so if ANYONE has a Silencer ring for the hx35/40 comp housings i'd love to take it off your hands for a few bucks if you are willing to sell it

WEll, so far, no good.. the warm weather + me driving the car last night let the snow melt onto it a little and temps dropped to below 20* F and the car is frozen shut hopefully after the Sopranos marathon this morning on A&E i can get into her and start

I am really exceited to start this, only looking for about 550whp tops, a little more or little less wont bobther me either way

in the mean time this AM i'm going to start machining the last fitting andmaybe chop the compressor cover on the holset and get it ready to weld the elbow on. I'll also get the pipe the HKS SSQV is on cut and ready to weld into place since the BOV swaop is what prompted the turbo swap today anyway (have traded the BOV on the car in parts with my old FMIC for the new supra/skyline FMIC core i'm now running. I might open the front bumper/fascia up today to expose more of the core if possible too. Time and temperature will tell i guess. It's not so easy for me to climb through the trunk when the doors are frozen like i could 10 years ago

Can't wait Glenn. Be cool if you had a video of you doing a pull or something after. I'm curious on how the oiling goes. Seems like everyone is different.

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oiling line is in my other thread in this section title somethign like "holset gurus (justin) give feedback on oil feed" or something like that

but after searching and re-reading over all the results threads last night and especially the ones with the gus who also had the same turine housins machined to fit their holsets, i was too stoked to not want to change her out today

Got in the car, drove it for cigarettes and medical supliess to warm it up. I find it's usually easier to work on the turbo/exhaust side bolts and other fasteners once the cars been up to temp then allowed to cool to just above room temperature

the only thing i'm the slightest it leary of is the compressor cover fitting at this point, at least without denting the water pipe, but hell, i aint scurred to dent that bi*** up a little I've got one of the last 2 fittings i needed to modify for oil feed done (changed from a banjo to a 90* NPT fitting at the turbo side of the feed - still keeping the banjo at the OFH)

I'm about to go cut the comp. housing outlet off and then machine the final oil fitting so everything's ready once the engine is cool enough to work on.

I'm not sure wether it's because of how much aftermarket the car has gone and how much OEM stuff has been stripped off the car but changing a turbo on my DSM isn't that hard really. the manifold and tubro come off together rather easily, only needing me to pull the WG, fans, and intake and DP off in order to free it for room (then i disconnect the oil and water lines once the unit is lifted out of the bay)

But i would say that with everything at a cool enough temp it's an hour or less of straight work to pull the manifold and turbo together. The real time in the swap will be oil feed setup, welding on the compressor elbow and setting up the intake/IC pipes which since i've had 4" intake on the previous turbo have already been built and are just sitting waiting to be installed.. only questionable part on that is where the elbow lands the outlet of the turbo in relation to where the IC pipes are already located (and the denting of the water pipe if need be)

I'm off to mess with the small things while she cools, be back with updates later

Yet another update

cut the housing to put me at the point of no return on the holset

cut and tapped the -6 inlet to take 1/8 NPT and blocked off one side of a T fitting i had to make the 90* inlet at the turbo

the flash makes the oil fittins look really beat up , and the placement of them puts me at about the limit of the 10* +/- from verticle on the oil feed and return but i think this will be fine, I've ran them more extreme than this on my car but i'm trying to go by spec as close as i can

There's a set screw plugging the top of the fitting at the turbo incase anyone missed that fact

and another update.wish some one would reply so i could start a fresh post instead of updating this one 50 times cause it's not going to make sense with the pics all at bottom and multiple timelines right above them

anyway, i'm at about the halfway mark, the only things left that aren't easy as far as a normal install are weldingthe elbow on and installing the new oil line. or i would say i'm at the halfway point with those done

here's some more pics below the first 3

Err..... update number 5 or 6 on this post

Tell me again why i was worried about the water pipe??

things are gonna work out pretty nice as long as the oil feed line works properly and is within spec!

also, since the housings are so easily clocked i machined the turbine housing just loose enough that you can rotate it easily by hand at least until corrosion and surface rust set back into the housing after some use) I love the v-band once again as well, it makes aligning the IC piping a breeze and will also help with intsalling and removing the turbo in the future since i can just loosed one bolt and then rotate the housing, probably not as easy once i bead it with some light silicone though

EDIT # 4356 for another update that can't be a post due to bump[ing in a 24 hour peroid ___________________

well son of a bi***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is the little sh** that eats me up... Out of everything in my garage i have my welding mask end up stolen!!!!!! It's always in one spot, I know where it was after the intercooler install the other day, it's not been moved since but it was near the garage door, now GONE!!!!!!! can't finish this and will have to go back to the damn garrett turbo all because of my mask being stolen! I don't have a ride to get a new one or borrow one or id' do that, instead i'm screwed! was gonna be a fun intall anyway

AND I SERIOUSELY ONLY HAVE 2 - 2.5 HOURS LEFT TOPS TO FINISH, INCLUDING THE WELDING!!!!!

Guess one thing i can say is i'm rather pleased with how clean the holset housing cast material is, I can tell from driling and tapping it for a pressure fitting for the WG that it's gonna be nice to weld when i finally can weld it

bbwhat do ya know, ANOTHER EDIT...__________________________________________________________________

arghh this is aggrivating at times, there should be an option for proven members to not bump but make a new post to seperate info....Anyway, thanks to the old auto tint mask i didn't throw away and the fact i paid my storage up to date last month i was able to go get the auto tint POS, now i cna weld again GAME ON!!!!!!!!!!

update # 2,345___________________________________

HELLO??? anyone alive on here today can't believe how slow the forum is today, well i have till 6:45 to get my car out of the stall its' in as far as garage time, I have the elbow welded on, tapped the housing for a wastegate pressure source, cut and built the oil feed to length, have the turbo bolted to the manifold but not safety wired yet. getting close in both cut off times and to being finished (three new pics at the bottom.

And i still haven't gotten to check oil pressure since the turbo isn't mounted yet, wish me luck if there's a living soul reading this

Sorry to hear about the welding helmet. Sucks that someone took something they more than likely have no use for. Good to know you had a handy POS hanging around.

I like the look of the compressor cover while it is cut. Reminds me of a sawed off shotgun, small package with a big punch. As far as the elbow, it did come out real nice even with a POS helmet. Your T fitting looks interesting all by itself.

Hope the feed and all worked out and I hope that the rest of the install went smooth. Now that you know there is a living sole reading this thread maybe you can do a finishing thread with some more eye candy and results.

Thanks robert, if time hadn't ran short because of the helmet ordeal i would have painted the comp cover and stripped the black off the v-band but at this poiint i'm WAY behind schedule, all that's left is to finish putting the DP on, get the AC fan in and the wastegate on, and the big one check oil pressure!! (hope it's in range cause i'm too far to back out now)

the weld turned out ok, but nothing i'd be claiming as mine on purpose , the cast elbow is actually a dirty casting compared to the comp housing and the weld shows it, but it's air tight and on there so i'm fine with that for now.. later on i plan to remove and polish this cover since the aluminum is so nice on the cover, but for now i'm just trying to get it on and running before it's too late at night

The worst part and what i absolutely hate is laying under the car in this winter muck falling off the car mixing with oil dry, just to hook up the oil and DP that are both being a PITA to work with requiring both hands to thread and hold in place while working on them(sometimes i have to take the DP loose fromthe rest of the piping to get all 5 bolts lined up, i wish i would have had a v-band to convert to but what i was thinking was a 3" in the toolbox was only 2.5 so it wasn't gonna cut it )

I also have to find one little ferule (edit just found ONE in the bottom of my pneumatic box WHEW!!) for the pressure gauge that i thought was in the little fitting and was missing too but i will march onand it will be done tonight either to sit for more work tomorrow if the pressure is high or for me to pull logs in the morning, i'm too beat tonight to do anything else once i'm done

one more thing: I did have to lightly dent the water pipe, but only because of the way i've clocked the compressor, had i setup my IC pipes as down firing the smaller part of the volute would have cleared easily, i couldn't even tell this was hitting until i placed the manifold on and pun the bolts up tight by hand to realize the passenger side was being lightly obstructed by maybe 3-4mm at the most, but it was enough to warrant clearancing and not just trying to tighten against it.

Nice progress Glenn. I hope the rest of the install goes well. I hope that your pressure checks out too.

What weight oil are you running? If I remember correctly it is some thin stuff. Anyway I ask because 10w-30 seems to be on the low side of 12-14 at idle for me, the break in 30 was too low and I have not tried anything thicker. This is with balance shafts deleted, no OFH porting, and no restrictor. I did do the oil port mod to the passage in the head during my rebuild so that has some influence. My pressure reaches 70-72psi between 4500-5000 and holds to red line.

Keep us posted on this voyage and can not wait to see some logs.

Wish you would have had the right size V-band for the exhaust but maybe next time.

Where are you pulling your oil feed from? I have a rare JDM head presure regulator (not rare as in wanted but just rarely seen) but it's got a spring and piston like the OFH housing does and is like the kiggly one where it keeps my head pressure below 30psi no matter what i rev to, but i'm pulling from the clean side of the OFH

My only plan (and not going to be an easy swap if i have to ) is to go to -3 line instead of -4 is p[ressure is too high on thefeed line (i'm using the fitting in one of my pics, to measure at the turbo it's self)

The DP is being a real bi*** or i would be done already so a v-band is getting ordered tonight!!! so next time i pull this f*cker i can swap it out to something easy to install

As soon as i pull a pressure reading i'll post it up, but i'm so close at this point i can smell either sucess or defeat, i hope once i taste it i got the better of the two

EDIT: oops i forgot to answer you. I'm running synthetic 5w30, my machinist said that he would garauntee the engine if i ran his oil recomendations only and he would be able to tell if i didn't so i've been running it for like 5+ years now beaten hard daily on 5 and 10w30 oils, always synthetic and always changed via color and not milage. (i'm currently due as well )

the reason i say he "garauntees" the engine is because i told him i wanted something that would hold OEM reliability levels while being revved like a motorcycle engine and putting out between 500 and 600 HP daily driven. the block has no b-shafts, OFH is untouched, wiseco 9:1's, eagle H beams,, ACL bearings, stock head, BC valve train (my pick), 264/272 cams, lightly did the head mod for oiling when i had the valve crash recently.. but before that crash the compression test (i mean literally days before) yielded 165psi across the board with a variance of no more than 7psi from highest to lowest.. but he said he would back this engine against failure as long as i ran his oil and was smart with it (he is familiar with my tuning and such so he wasn't worried on that), but he insisted that i run nothing thicker than 10w30 oil at all times, and strictly said not to follow the V8 guys and run 20-50 weight oils as there would be failures because of pumping issues before it ever helped with a properly built engine that was designed to run thinner oils like ours are from the factory - that being said i want to go pick his brian about it and see what's up because i knoew some smart members on here running 20w50 or just 50 oils because they use the logic of film strength which i've heard from the "v8 guys" my machinist talked about, so i'd like to know some "whys"

damn robert, just noticed you lived in PG county, last time i was in the DC metro area PG county was a damn scary place at times, you keep that DSM locked up at night? (maybe i'm thinking PG Co, MD though)

Where are you pulling your oil feed from? I have a rare JDM head presure regulator (not rare as in wanted but just rarely seen) but it's got a spring and piston like the OFH housing does and is like the kiggly one where it keeps my head pressure below 30psi no matter what i rev to, but i'm pulling from the clean side of the OFH

My only plan (and not going to be an easy swap if i have to ) is to go to -3 line instead of -4 is p[ressure is too high on thefeed line (i'm using the fitting in one of my pics, to measure at the turbo it's self)

The DP is being a real bi*** or i would be done already so a v-band is getting ordered tonight!!! so next time i pull this f*cker i can swap it out to something easy to install

As soon as i pull a pressure reading i'll post it up, but i'm so close at this point i can smell either sucess or defeat, i hope once i taste it i got the better of the two

EDIT: oops i forgot to answer you. I'm running synthetic 5w30, my machinist said that he would garauntee the engine if i ran his oil recomendations only and he would be able to tell if i didn't so i've been running it for like 5+ years now beaten hard daily on 5 and 10w30 oils, always synthetic and always changed via color and not milage. (i'm currently due as well )

the reason i say he "garauntees" the engine is because i told him i wanted something that would hold OEM reliability levels while being revved like a motorcycle engine and putting out between 500 and 600 HP daily driven. the block has no b-shafts, OFH is untouched, wiseco 9:1's, eagle H beams,, ACL bearings, stock head, BC valve train (my pick), 264/272 cams, lightly did the head mod for oiling when i had the valve crash recently.. but before that crash the compression test (i mean literally days before) yielded 165psi across the board with a variance of no more than 7psi from highest to lowest.. but he said he would back this engine against failure as long as i ran his oil and was smart with it (he is familiar with my tuning and such so he wasn't worried on that), but he insisted that i run nothing thicker than 10w30 oil at all times, and strictly said not to follow the V8 guys and run 20-50 weight oils as there would be failures because of pumping issues before it ever helped with a properly built engine that was designed to run thinner oils like ours are from the factory - that being said i want to go pick his brian about it and see what's up because i knoew some smart members on here running 20w50 or just 50 oils because they use the logic of film strength which i've heard from the "v8 guys" my machinist talked about, so i'd like to know some "whys"

damn robert, just noticed you lived in PG county, last time i was in the DC metro area PG county was a damn scary place at times, you keep that DSM locked up at night? (maybe i'm thinking PG Co, MD though)

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Woops, forgot to mention this is from the clean side of the OFH. I did so much research to find out what side was suppose to be clean on a 90 OFH and yet I can not remember.

Anyway, swapping to a smaller line will only reduce the flow to the turbo not the pressure... right This was always my understanding but I am no expert. Attached is a pic of my setup and where I read my pressure.

It is great that you have the option to just switch to Vband. I am in no way a welder and have never run a bead. I do not have any welding tools, so any welding becomes a hassle dealing with local shops.

I thought you told me 5w-30 before. I think the reasoning is how well the oil flows. It may be easier to flow a thinner oil and that may be the argument in this oil thickness debate.

I lived in Prince George VA last year. It was not too bad out there. I have since moved to Colonial Heights VA after a recent deployment. I do keep my "work of art" in a garage and locked up for safe keeping. As you have noticed people will take anything that is shinny and easily accessible. She may look like a 21 year old bucket but I treat her like a brand new car.

Wow glenn you're goin crazy on the fabbing, I could never get all that done in a sunday. Hope it all worked out for ya, looking forward to seeing the end results!

I know you're concerned about OP in the top end, what about a valve off the oil feed that bypasses oil to your drain line? That could help drop pressure. Just a thought. You're right about the Nebraska roads they were slick up until today, I stayed an extra day in Lincoln yesterday after tearing my front clip off my 2GB bumper doing some AWD work in the talon.

I'm sure you figured out the locks okay but a couple things I've done in the past to thaw out frozen Nebraska locks is a heat gun and a soldering iron tip to the lock cylinder.

I'm living in the Midtown area (seems like thats where they've been dumping all the snow), and I have a good condition H1C at my shop in Lincoln if you ever need another or need a hand.

Edit: I believe pressure should drop too, as oil viscosity comes into play with flow. However I have no real world experience with this.

I have idle oil pressure of 29psi and anytime i get near 5000RPM the pressure shoots up to 80psi (i'm measuring it off the banjo fitting AT the OFH, i doubt that it would be any different at the turbo. but my gauge is in the middle of two fittings on my line so it must be saying pressure is backed up to that point in the line

I don't know, just seems high to me and i've always read these pressures at the OFH (and yes these are hot pressures, cold i'm sitting at 60psi at idle), my next step it to put the restricted banjo fitting in the line,

MY thughts are to either cut a coil off the oil pressure spring, or swap to the ported OFH I have but i don't have money for a complete gasket kit or to wait to order the OFH gasket alone from mitsu

I knew i should have ported the OFH on the car when i built the engine but i didn't think i wanted to until i saw thepressure myself the new engine put out

APhix, we'll have to hook up sometime and talk, BS, do DSM sh**, or "AWD work"

Should i just go back to fdeeding this from my head port unrestricted where i know i have 10psi at hot idle and 30psi hot and any revs over 1500 RPM?? I'll be limited to 30psi max but that's probably better than 100psi max at redline and a constant bordering 70psi at cruise above 3k RPM

My garrett lived over 110k miles and for 10 years with a 360* thrust bearing fed from the head so there's ample volume i imagine for the holset, just wondering about the pressure, since 72 psi is a "max" i guess 30psi with good volume would be sufficient but what about at loads in the 30-35psi range (highest i'l probably go with it)

Attached Files:

Oh ya I'm always making farmers heads turn when they see my little Talon whizzing through the snow haha. Yeah me and Beans are always BS'in DSM stuff, and I'm finally getting my Talon into a presentable condition so hopefully I'll see ya running around more.

As far as modifying the OP at the OFH goes I'll leave that to someone with some experience.

However, I would imagine either a more restricted fitting or a valve that reroutes oil to your drain would work to dial in pressures. That's how I've always plumbed saltwater fish tanks to drop pressure while not producing a harder load on the pump.

Oh ya I'm always making farmers heads turn when they see my little Talon whizzing through the snow haha. Yeah me and Beans are always BS'in DSM stuff, and I'm finally getting my Talon into a presentable condition so hopefully I'll see ya running around more.

As far as modifying the OP at the OFH goes I'll leave that to someone with some experience.

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yea, i'm amazed how well these go in snow, most i know don't take them out or don't make power like i do, so to have this thing hook up like it does in snow is awesome

as far as OFH's i've modded them,(but never tried lowering pressure to just one item like a turbo) just didn't do the one ON my engine, have a ported one right here i used for mockup and a spare in case i needed a ported one, but being i've never had the neeed to lower my engine pressures below what they are for any reason i've left them alone

I've always used the head to feed my turbos too, and i think that's what i'm headed back to, i'll keep it -4 for the volume, but feed from the head for solid lower pressures that are consistant if nthing else

PM me your number and i'll text you so if you need you cna hit me up to chillor if ya need any fab work on emergency or just in general, i should have been done with this thing by 4pm watching TV but the welding helmet missing killed me

Once you attach the photo, click the little arrow to the right of the paperclip. It will open a dropdown box where you can select the file. It will then insert the code in the text box where your cursor is at. Then the photo will appear at that point in the text instead of at the bottom.

I have idle oil pressure of 29psi and anytime i get near 5000RPM the pressure shoots up to 80psi (i'm measuring it off the banjo fitting AT the OFH, i doubt that it would be any different at the turbo it's self or am i wrong there? but my gauge is in the middle of two fittings on my line so it must be saying pressure is backed up to that point in the line??

I don't know, just seems high to me and i've always read these pressures at the OFH (and yes these are hot pressures, cold i'm sitting at 60psi at idle), my next step it to put the restricted banjo fitting in the line, but putting it in just ahead of the oil pressure sensor tap, will it make the difference?

MY thughts are to either cut a coil off the oil pressure spring, or swap to the ported OFH I have but i don't have money for a complete gasket kit or to wait to order the OFH gasket alone from mitsu

I knew i should have ported the OFH on the car when i built the engine but i didn't think i wanted to until i saw thepressure myself the new engine put out

APhix, we'll have to hook up sometime and talk, BS, do DSM sh**, or "AWD work"

Should i just go back to fdeeding this from my head port unrestricted where i know i have 10psi at hot idle and 30psi hot and any revs over 1500 RPM?? I'll be limited to 30psi max but that's probably better than 100psi max at redline and a constant bordering 70psi at cruise above 3k RPM

My garrett lived over 110k miles and for 10 years with a 360* thrust bearing fed from the head so there's ample volume i imagine for the holset, just wondering about the pressure, since 72 psi is a "max" i guess 30psi with good volume would be sufficient but what about at loads in the 30-35psi range (highest i'l probably go with it)

here's a pic of my oil feed

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Did you go past 5k? If so did it continue to climb? This is about where mine maxes out. I am guessing at this point the system is bypassing enough oil to sustain a steady pressure, at least in my motor as it does not rise after this point.

As far as the sensor tap location, I do not believe it will make a difference as your line size does not change and you have no restrictor after the tap.

As far as porting the oil filter housing that would help flow a little more oil and sustain a lower peak psi, at least this is my understanding. I have never cut a coil off of the spring, so I can not comment on that modification. This would reduce the amount of pressure it takes to open the bypass, but it would only help bypass more oil if it opened further. Don't know if I am making much sense, just trying to help you find a solution.

The head source would be great for idle and spool up, because the manual ask for 10 at idle and 30 on spool up. I am not to sure what the desired "high boost" PSI is.

You do however have enough idle pressure to add a restritor and be on the safe side still. You could just add one to get the oil pressure just below 72 at red line. This is a viable solution if the oil pressure is not terribly high. If it is really high the filter housing needs to be ported just for the motors sake. I am just thinking out loud and will quit typing now. Hopefully something in here helped.

Once you attach the photo, click the little arrow to the right of the paperclip. It will open a dropdown box where you can select the file. It will then insert the code in the text box where your cursor is at. Then the photo will appear at that point in the text instead of at the bottom.

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Thanks, that's very usefull info, when i want to setup a thread that way i've always resorted to hosting off site and then adding the IMG tags where needed..thanks again!

I'm about to do this when I get home deployment. I just hope I don't run into the same issues running from the OFH

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well, if you have no BS's you proabbly will have high pressure, my pump is the straight cut gear 90 model (what i got stock in my engine)and i've not modded anything else as far as the oiling system is concerned aside from a better regulator for the head it's self to keep presures lower (it's like the kiggly or english piece that goes in the head but mine is from a JD market engine and is different than the US spec pieces and supposedly better because of how it's built) and I still have my oils squirters

keep reading, I will find a solution so you'll then know what happens to need done on yours if you are the same as me on OP

Did you go past 5k? If so did it continue to climb? This is about where mine maxes out. I am guessing at this point the system is bypassing enough oil to sustain a steady pressure, at least in my motor as it does not rise after this point.

As far as the sensor tap location, I do not believe it will make a difference as your line size does not change and you have no restrictor after the tap.

As far as porting the oil filter housing that would help flow a little more oil and sustain a lower peak psi, at least this is my understanding. I have never cut a coil off of the spring, so I can not comment on that modification. This would reduce the amount of pressure it takes to open the bypass, but it would only help bypass more oil if it opened further. Don't know if I am making much sense, just trying to help you find a solution.

The head source would be great for idle and spool up, because the manual ask for 10 at idle and 30 on spool up. I am not to sure what the desired "high boost" PSI is.

You do however have enough idle pressure to add a restritor and be on the safe side still. You could just add one to get the oil pressure just below 72 at red line. This is a viable solution if the oil pressure is not terribly high. If it is really high the filter housing needs to be ported just for the motors sake. I am just thinking out loud and will quit typing now. Hopefully something in here helped.

Robert

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I don't want to make the oiling too complex, I may just go to the head with it. my 360* thrust bearing garrett lived 10 years and 110K miles with virtually NO BEARING WEAR at all, the impeller blades erroded away is the only reason it came off the car to start with

restictors restrict volume,and volume loss kills garrett thrust bearings and that's what i'm affraid of with this setup and restrictors, the head has nice large volume low pressure

Also, i'm thinking since 72psi is "max" 30 should be ok for boost levels in the 30-35psi range (well i shuld say i hope and am waiting on opinions on this) but being that they see boost levels of 45-50psi on diesels, which might need some more oil pressure than the head will supply, but for a daily driven that hits 25-30 for only moments here and there daily i should be good on theheads pressure (again i'm hoping i'm right about this)

But really i doubt the things are meant to be ran right at their max their entire boosting life so the more i sit here the more i think 30psi from the head will be fine

as for my pressure.. by 6k RPM it is about 100psi, but since i run "thin oil" compared to most, i've left it there,my machinist said that would't hurt as long as it's not 130 and up range and not sustaining those PSI's.. I just want to be done damnit!!!!!!!!!!

I'm alsmost positive from moving the car to a different parking spot that there's way too much oil going to the turbo, i can usually hear spool and fluttering on parking maneuvers but not on this one unless i really try and load it, i'm gonna oil from the head tomorrow and see what happens

Now, onto my last ditch effort before feeding from the head
since we've discussed that in theory pressure is a result of volume that's backed up. Meaning that if i unhooked the feed to the turbo, at the turbo, the gauge should read almost nothing with oil swuirting everywhere.

So, since i didn't like the look of the banjo bolt i had welded and drilled open, i came up with this. And its almost like the nitrous jet restrictor in a way.

Motorcycle jets are somethign i have no shortage of, and they are mostly threaded m5 x .080. So, I took a banjo bolt that will fit at the OFH where the current one is and tapped it to accept M5 x .080 thread.

Then i drilled out a motorcycle main jet with a bit that measured .0835 (but drills slightly larger at a measured .087"

I combined them to make this, which will restrict flow before my gauge at the start of the feed line and give me a real accurate idea of if i am lowering pressure or not and by how much, so if it works i've swapped one bolt to fix the problem.. if it doesn't work i'll feed from the head or drill it out larger if the pressure is too low after the install (my current opening at the current banjo is .123" So i've restricted down by 30% or to 70% of the size i started with tonight. lets see what happens tomorrow