New member here with a bone stock 05. I love my truck and it's a huge improvement over my poor ole 88 f-150 and it's tired 302 with 275,000. But the more I'm hearing about the 6.0 the more concerned I'm getting. I've got 45,000 trouble free miles of light towing and hauling but obviously I'm out of warranty. Can any one tell me what the best preventitive upgrades are to be done to the 6.0? I have a lot of Ford big and small block performance experience and plenty of tools but no diesel experience. But I have no fear of the mighty Ford, for it is my friend.

Basically I'll make the same recommendations I'll be doing to my own rig here once I get the funding. I just had studs put in when the oil cooler clogged and caused the EGR to rupture and blow the head gaskets.

- At a minimum, flush the Ford Gold Coolant, with Restore and VC-9 (separately), and fill with a CAT rated EC-1 ELC.
- If you have the funding head in there and put either a Bullet Proof Diesel EGR cooler (or if you choose the EGR delete), and replace the OEM Oil Cooler (Flush before you replace the coolers, and clean the EGR valve).
- After that, for piece of mind, get yourself an Edge Insight or a quality set of gauges for EGT, ECT, EOT and trans temp.

That will solve the majority of the 6.0L issues, if you want to solve everything at once:
- Tear down and do ARP headstuds, and gaskets.

There are numerous write-ups on how to do this, and a whole of of advice on parts and reasoning. I hope this helps, and let us know how it progresses.

I too have an '05 with 90k miles. Definetly find a way to monitor your EOT/ECT readings at highway speed, while towing if possible. That will give you a good idea of your oil cooler efficiency. If the oil cooler has never been replaced and you had some money to throw at the truch to ensure reliability, I would say go ahead and replace your oil cooler with another stock cooler and either replace your EGR cooler with a Bulletproof EGR cooler or delete it. I like the Bulletproof option, I've installed a couple and they are tip top quality. At the same time install a coolant filter, no if's, and's, or but's about it. While you have the top of the engine apart replace your STC fitting with the upgraded fitting from Ford on your HPOP. Newer style turbo feed/drain tubes, upgraded fuel pressure regulator kit, and a good turbo cleaning would also be great upgrades.

thanks for the responses!
Check on the flush, and also on the oil cooler upgrade. And the coolant filter as well. Ive been told by my neighbor who has an 05 King Ranch that casting sediment from the block is what clogs the coolers up, is he correct?

But what would be better, to upgrade or delete the egr altogether? I will do whatever the members here recommend. And I've been searching the site here and I'll be doing that modification/replacement of the downpipe (is it the egr pipe?) that has the obstruction in it.

I want to avoid pulling the heads if at all possible, we bought this truck to give us some peace of mind while towing our pop-up and to give me a break from constantly repairing the old 88 half ton, so I sure don't want to have to open the engine up. Besides, I've been told that the cab has to be lifted to get at the heads and from the looks of the engine bay I believe it.

It will only be fair to patronize the vendors on this site if at all possible for the parts I''ll be needing, and I'll be sure to give an update and post pics (but I'm sure you fellas have seen it all before.)

Since you have an 05, you also need to replace the stc fitting on the hpop, dummy plugs and standpipes in the oil rail, updated turbo drain pipe. You should also buy coolant filter even if you use cat coolant

Since you have an 05, you also need to replace the stc fitting on the hpop, dummy plugs and standpipes in the oil rail, updated turbo drain pipe. You should also buy coolant filter even if you use cat coolant

thanks for the responses!
Check on the flush, and also on the oil cooler upgrade. And the coolant filter as well. Ive been told by my neighbor who has an 05 King Ranch that casting sediment from the block is what clogs the coolers up, is he correct?

But what would be better, to upgrade or delete the egr altogether? I will do whatever the members here recommend. And I've been searching the site here and I'll be doing that modification/replacement of the downpipe (is it the egr pipe?) that has the obstruction in it.

I want to avoid pulling the heads if at all possible, we bought this truck to give us some peace of mind while towing our pop-up and to give me a break from constantly repairing the old 88 half ton, so I sure don't want to have to open the engine up. Besides, I've been told that the cab has to be lifted to get at the heads and from the looks of the engine bay I believe it.

It will only be fair to patronize the vendors on this site if at all possible for the parts I''ll be needing, and I'll be sure to give an update and post pics (but I'm sure you fellas have seen it all before.)

Your neighbor is not quite right. There may be some casting sand in the system but the big problem is the silicate fallout from the G-05 coolant. A flush and change to ELC will fix that. If you can delete the EGR where you are I suggest doing that. If not do the Bulletproof egr cooler.

Get an Edge Insight and monitor your temps especially before you do anything. Monitor your EOT and ECT. You may not have any need to change the oil cooler out at all. With a egr delete and ELC coolant you shouldn't have to worry about head gaskets either. If at some point they do happen to go that's the time to go to head studs.

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