I have a Samsung LN-T4061F television with the clicking problem lasting anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes before turning on. I went to my local electronics store to no avail. No luck. So I checked online and finally found enough information. At hobbymod.com I was able to find a kit that supports many Samsung lcd and plasma televisions. The list of supported tvs are available there. This is a complete kit of 19 capacitors, with instructions, solder, solder wicking material, and cleaning swabs. It's the most complete kit I have found for a wapping $12.95 plus shipping. Good luck to all of you. Sincerely, victrola

I have a LNT4665F that got progressively worse from 10 to 50 to 10 minutes to 8 hours. GOT me pretty hacked so I checked the web and found the great info on this site that prompted me to pull the back remove the power board and find 2 bulging capacitors. I have a fellow Captain on our FD that has been soldering and tweaking for 30 yrs so I decided to get the parts and let him sodler for me. Made the trip to Tanners in Dallas, he desoldered and resoldered the new CAPS in. I reinstall the board, plug all back in, put the back on it. Attach teh power plug and got nothing , rechecked the cord. Nothing no standby light or anything. So now I am thinking really big paper weight or having to pay for a board. Decided to call teh Samsung number and have been given the news that my set qualifies for the one time repair of capacitors. It is almost 2 yrs out of normal warranty and I appreciate that they are working to resolve it, dilema is do I tell the repair guy that I tore into it to repair it ? I know he is going to know that it was done due to the fact that they are diff caps. If it is something other than caps issue I am required to pay for the repair. Any suggestions or should I plead ignorance? Sometimes I do not have to act on the last part, it comes naturally, LOL. I made every attempt to folow the huge amount of pics and vids on the site.

We have a 3d 55" Samsung 7000 seires that we purchased at best buy just over a year ago. I think we paid $3500 for the thing! On off clicking problem. I pulled the back off to look at the capacitor problem that other models have experienced. The board seems to be configured different than the pictures I found on this website, but cannot find the signs of a bad capacitor or capacitors. Do I bite the bullet and take it in? Or do I try and replace a circuit board? Which circuit board would cause the problem.

went back in aftertinking about the reinstall, I knew my buddy had done the soldering like the pro he is, so I knew it had to be on my end. Sure enough I found the main double ribbon connect loose , plugged it in, added power plug and on at first touch. less than 2 dollars for parts. They have set a time and were going to honor the out of warranty for the capaictors, so not sure they do all of them but mine was almost 4 yrs old and they were on tehir way for monday. save them a trip so maybe they can help someone who does nto have the resources.

I have a lnt5265f Samsung LCD which I bought approximately 3years ago. Recently the tv went through the same clicking on/off cycling before it would power on. The duration before powering on was increasing just as described by others. At first once it did power on it would work normally but after a few days of this, once it would finally power on it then turn off and then right back on every minute or so.

I went ahead and looked at the power supply board, thanks to the info in this thread, sure enough I had two bulging caps. I went ahead and replaced the 2 bad ones and the other three that were the same specks.

After this the tv would start right up but would still turn off then back on on its own every minute or so. Is this indicative of a separate problem or still related to the capacitors? I'm wondering if I should try desoldering then resoldering the caps I put in, replacing the other caps with different specs, or ordering a whole new power board. Anybody else have this same scenario,or have any suggestions?

My 46" LCD keeps shutting itself off and on. I called a TV repair business who told me that Samsung is paying for capacitor problems. Sure enough, Samsung is sending a repairman to my house. If it is capacitors, no charge. Anything else I have to pay. Anyone else having the same problem, if so was it capacitors?

My Samsung LNS4041D(very little use) broke 5 days ago with the screen failed to power up, I experience the infamous clicking sound that so many people here encountered.

First it toke 2 min to power on, then 15 min, and now 2-3 h to get anything on screen. I did a search on Google and instantly found a dozen site with people all having problem with their Samsung TV's.

After reading around some 120 pages of posts, looking at pictures form different sites, everything points to the power supply board that have those unsuitable and insufficient voltage capacitor that's at fault. Samsung have use 4x 10volt capacitor in lieu of 12volt as indicated on the power supply board.

Here's a picture of those bad caps.

I plan on replace them today with 4x 1000mf 16v or 25v capacitors. And will give an update of how it go. In the meantime, I'll boycott any and all Samsung products for such a cruel and greedy move to get more of my money. And make sure everyone I know are aware what Samsung represent: Bad quality, dishonest merchant!

Hi,Newbie to this forum and have been busy using all the info on the dreaded clicking problem, BUT still have the following fault, I hope one of you can help with.Samsung LE40R88BD, new in 2007, so far i have replaced these parts1. All the caps on the psu as recommended .Now relay clicks on but nothing else.2. Eeprom chip 24C256,(IC803) first of all tried shorting out pins 5 & 6 as described on other forums, now have backlight and sound but no picture, tried shining a bright light into screen but nothing there.3. Replaced chip 24C256, No difference.4. Linked P1 fuse on T-Con board as this has also been found to blow. No difference.

Please if anyone has any ideas i would be grateful, xmas coming up, have the grandkids staying and if they cant play their ps3 games, HELP.

I own a Samsung LE32A558 TV for a bit more than 2 years (warranty expired after 2 years) and since them I've been getting these strange vertical lines on the left side of the TV, their size is around the difference of a 16:9 and 4:3 image on the left side.

Is there anyone in the San Fernandon Valley, Ca that can help me with this repair on my Samsung 22" LCD? I'm done with Samsung, bought a new LG LED TV today, but hate to get rid/throw out, a 2.5 year old TV. Best Buy wanted $85 just to look at before diagnosis and repair.

I too am having a problem with my Samsung LCD tv. I turned it off one day last week, and turned it back on less than an hour later and nothing happened. There were no issues before this, and, upon calling samsung, found that repair would cost me $400-600!!I am wondering if the "cap replacement" is the fix on my SAMSUNG as well!Mine is a mdl LN40B530P7N After removing the rear panel, and inspecting the board(it's a bit different than the pix listed here) I found 2 swelled caps that have the same value as the "bad ones" listed. The others don't seem to be bad, but while I'm in a position to get what I need I might as well!

@Alberto yup we see the image, I am unable to assist you though, a quick search on the net suggest it might be the TIMING AND CONTROL BOARD but it could be other reasons affecting it. It will be necessary to open the back panel and check. But if you do, make sure you follow electrical safety procedures.

As for me I replace those bad caps with 4x 1000uf 25v 85C capacitors . The TV worked perfectly afterwords. Power on the instant I press the on button.

But the next day when we watch the TV for an hour or so and when I came back after 5 min to get dishes done, TV started emitting a burning chemical smell from the back panels.

Got a feeling it's those caps again(low quality caps ?), I will open it up again and see what is going on. In the meantime, we gone to get a 32"LCD Toshiba to watch TV for now as I am simply too busy to do any fix/repairs during the holidays.

I found this interesting report from Reuters: LCD makers settle price-fixing case for $553 million.

I just had my "on off tv problem" solved today at no charge.I called samsung and explained the problem, they asked me some questions and told me my tv was out of guaranteed, which I new, and that I had to pay to fix it.I told them I saw on internet that there's a lot of people with this problem and that you are fixing it for free.He told me if it's the capacitators we won't charge you.but if it's not you have to pay for the tech visit, about $60 + tax.I was almost ,certain it was the capacitators,because of all the complains on internet....and it was.My tv is perfect now!!!

hey guys i have a Samsung LCD TV model LNS4051 that just wouldn't turn on i all got was a red light were the power button is

after removing the back i see no obvious blown caps which kinda bums me out because i really liked the darn tv an don't wanna go buy anymore onelocal radioshacks are out of stock till tomorrow so im stuck waiting will update if this works

Many thanks too all on this forum have now replaced all 5 capacitors on my board only costing £2.50 but visibly allot better looking than the ones samsung decided to use on my 40"LCD retailing at £1200!! Just from the look of the original capacitors the specified parts were never built to make it past 3 years, shall have to invest in a spare board if plan on keeping this tv. For the most part i'm glade there was a fix thanks to you guyz on here so cheers again.I hope 3D TV is out this summer.

Thank you all so much. My Samsung 2032MW had the clicking sound and no picture. I found this forum and checked the capacitors which were indeed faulty. Bought myself four more capacitors, a soldering iron and solder, total cost of 12 Euros. TV now works perfectly.

robert 25 wrote:bottom line is that Samsung does not accept any responsability for the poor design and product defects for there products. So I suggest people stop buying there products

Couldn't agree more! I was told my LE40A656A does not experience the on/off problem and it would be £85 for an engineer to visit + parts. I replaced two capacitors for £2 with 35V 1000uf (old ones were 25V) and the TV is working well again. Last samsung product I'll be buying.

Hi Kevester, hope you're still on this forum or someone else may be able to help?

I too have a LE40A656, and looks like I might have the same power issue. The standby light blinks with the mains plugged in, but cannot get it to turn on. It's probably just over two years old, and don't want to pay a huge amount to get it fixed, is it easy to swap out these capacitors? Anyone have a guide?

I also experienced the failure of my Samsung LNT4061f to power up last December (2010). My wife called samsung and they sent a tech who replaced several capacitors. The unit would not turn on after the change out though. He told her it would cost a couple hundred dollars to continue troubleshooting. She borrowed another tv we have used since then but recently returned it. I am now trying to see if I can resolve the problem in the samsung. I checked the polarity of the new capacitors and they are fine. Wondering if anyone has had any similiar experience or advice.

for you tl;dr people, i did turboroe's steps 1-4, pressed the channel down button and the tv came on, then thanked him in this post

hi all, i came across this place looking to resolve the clicky-on/off power cycling that affects samsung lcd tvs with bad sanwha caps. mine was a LA46M81 model. i bought it around mid 2008 and it was only now (jan 2011) that i had any issues.

at first i noticed that when i would turn it off, i'd hear a significant popping noise through the speakers. i wondered what this was but before long the problem escalated after i left the house with the tv on (it regularly does long hours of on-ness, partly due to me falling asleep in front of it, partly because i can be immensely lazy and forgetful. now what was i talking about? ah i cant be bothered trying to remember)

a bit of google searching led me to the bad caps issue. after umming and ahing over the idae of buying another tv - which would be smaller as i didnt have the spare cash to replace with a 46" size, i figured i may as well take the back cover off and have a look. sure enough the two 10V 2200uF caps were bulged. i set off to Jaycar (an electronics shop in perth australia) and bought a bunch of caps and replaced them. the ones i replaced were - 2x 10V 2200uF, 2x 25V 1000uF and 1 10V 1000uF. as i was unable to locate a 10V 1000uF in the shop i used a 16V instead. in hindsight i probably should have used 16V 2200s inplace of the bulged ones.

also while i had the power board out there was a rattle under one of the transformers(the Y, or Yellow one) which feed the inverters on each side of the panel, so i managed to pull this off, remove the ball of solder underneath it which was stuck/rattling and then solder it back on. glad i did this, as it could have been a potential short

after all this i powered on the tv to once again come across the familiar power on/power off cycle and if i had a hdmi input plugged in (as that was the last thing to be in use) i also had speaker pops whenever it powered off. (this co-incided with the red light from the IR audio port turning off)

more googling led me to here, and after seeing the post quoted below (there was more umming and ahing, as an option would be to take the tv to the local samsung service centre, however it is sunday today so that may mean i have to wait. did i say im impatient? thats stronger than the laziness. ok ill hurry up n get to the point). i followed the steps of finding the eeprom chip, soldering two thin wires (i ripped apart an unused SATA hdd cable and used 2 of the 4 wires inside) to the points just a few mm away from pins 5 and 6.

after doing this i then powered up the tv with the wires shorted, after a few seconds pulled them apart (they were lightly twisted together) and had the tv in stand by! yays! i then punched in the info-menu-mute-power cycle and while the tv made the relay clicks associated with powering on, nothing happened!

i tried this a few more times, used the other button sequence mentioned in turboroe's post but still nothing. after turning off and powering up again, leaving it for a few minutes etc, (i cant remember exactly, i guess i was just playing) i also tried pulling off the main board again, checking my soldering was ok, powering up the tv without the wires shorted - which put it back in its original 'power cycling' state. my thoughts at this time were 'ok, i havent made it worse'.

after trying turboroe's steps 2-5 again and once again playing with various combinations on the remote while quietly pondering my next move (i havent got a service manual handy, so i couldnt use that for reference at the time).. i hit the Channel-Down button. lo and behold, the tv powered up with the very last DTV channel(in australia, its 200, an audio only channel) displayed! sure enough, pressing the channel-up button let me cycle through all the channels the tv knew about, albeit with no reception since i only had power plugged in.

i was then able to plug in a HDMI cable into the port i was using up to now (everything else is fed via a HDMI amp), hit 'source' and the picture from the playstation came up!

after that, i turned off via remote, unplugged all cables, put the rear cover back on (after taping down the wires that lead to the epprom - though as i write this, perhaps i should have used something mroe secure than electrical tape - cable ties?) and after plugging in the same hdmi and power cables as before, the red led was on/stable. i pressed power on the remote, and after the typical relay click from behind and some blinking from the led, a picture!

looks like im out of the woods on this one, so after i post this the tv is going back on the wall - if i have any issues ill post back.

I'd just like to say thanks to turboroe for the post as this was a huge help in getting this working again!

turboroe wrote:Samsung LCD TV Clicking or Not turning on walkthrough:

Main Problem: Popped low quality power board capacitors

Solder in new capacitors (the medium 1000uF next to the power board<->main board connectors. preferably 35V).I strongly recommend swapping ALL the 1000uF ones for new - better quality - ones.

If TV still doesn´t turn on: EEPROM memory values are bugged.Q. Why does this happen? A. When Tv is plugged in it attempts to read EEPROM and reads some bad data, then resets (probably due to the Watchdog).Note: Data gets corrupted because of the power board capacitors problem.

1. Short out the eeprom pins 5 & 6 ( the two pins that connect to resistors ). The easiest way is to carefully solder a thin wire (about 6" length) to each of the 2 little round pre-soldered pads that lie in front of pins 5 and 6 and use the wires as a contact breaker to easily shorten the pins.2. Turn on the power - Instead of the usual noticeable relay click, you get a faint click, the backlight stays off, nothing else happens.3. Wait around 1-2 secs ( anything longer than this NEVER seemed to work ).4. Remove the short. Note: by now the TV is already in normal standby operation, but EEPROM values are still bugged.5. Press the service mode key combination on the remote control. Note: check service manual for the correct combination or try the following: * info, menu, mute, power on) - In that order individually, one at a time. * mute, 1, 8, 2, power on) - In that order individually, one at a time.6. TV should come on with noise picture and then the service menu (press Source if it is difficult to read)7. Immediately go to option Adjust and turn OFF the watchdogs (especially in case your TV keeps turning off by itself at this point)8. Now, for EVERY OPTION in ALL THE SUBMENUS, change EVERY VALUE and then change it back (toggle right-left) to assure the EEPROM data is re-written correctly. Note: To enter some submenus you have to press the right arrow instead of OK button. To return, press exit.

Some values will still be currupt, though, and you will have to guess the right one or consult the service manual for factory defaults, such as Panel vendor, Memory vendor, panel type, etc. But the TV will still work anyway, maybe not with the best image.

9. Go back to Adjust and turn back on the watchdogs.10. Finally, Set TUNER to AUTO and then go back to root menu, goto RESET and select it by pressing the right arrow.

Note: I recommend keeping the wires soldered to the EEPROM chip. You may need them in the future. Just remember to tape the ends to prevent a short-circuit with the chassis.

Other thoughts: If your TV is clicking but still turns on after a while, I STRONGLY suggest you immediately stop using it and swap the power board capacitors at once before your EEPROM data gets bugged.

Hi I have an LA32S71BX Samsung LCD TV. I have a problem with the sound as it has static on it whenever we turn it on and if we turn it off and back again the sound will be better. Ok, that problem is tolerable. But almost a week now, we encountered this problem. It shuts off by itself. red light blinks then stays blank. I unplug the main power cable then the red led indicator blinks then TV turns on then shuts again... I have checked all of the capacitors on the POWER BOARD and everything looks fine. I suspect its the system board...or the lcd itself. I called HONG KONG Samsung and they are charging me 500 HK$ just for the technician to see the problem. They wont even let me bring it to their service center. any help will be appreciated... thanks

FYI all, There is a LOT more to specifying electrolytic capacitors than capacitance, voltage, and temperature. One important specification that is being overlooked is ESR, or internal resistance. In a power supply this rating is quite important as it directly relates to how much the device heats up when current is surging in and out of the part (as in switching power supplies). Just looking at the single-sided low-cost single-sided PCB tells me all possible corners have been cut, so the capacitors have likely been specified too close to margin and now they are paying the price of pushing the envelope. Margins do suck for manufacturers, so this is understandable. Profit must be made someplace.

When is the last time you popped the back panel to check internal quality or when is the last time you purchased on price and specification list only? Since we all shop according to the second method, we really get what we pay for.

So when you are finding devices with a higher voltage rating, you are not addressing all of the potential problems. Say for example the ESR doubles, so will the energy dissipated in the device (higher temperature). This shortens the life span of the part dramatically. What is obvious is they kept higher-temperature parts in there to overcome the loss in the cheap parts. Put in a part with a lower ESR and they should run cooler and for longer. Put a lower ESR part in there with a high temperature rating, and they will outlast the technology.

What happens when you see the bulge is the device has been running too hot, and the electrolytic material (usually a think "juice" impregnated into a materiel that holds it) has been forced out of the device. The capacitance lowers, the regulation falls apart, and the problem escalates and gets the device even hotter to a point the supply can no longer function to the degree of powering the TV properly.

Some good options are Panasonic capacitors. They make some high-reliability low ESR high temperature parts. Sure they cost a bit more, but other stuff will die before these do.

Digikey and Mouser are your friends:Search for the EEUFC1E series. You should get a list of values and sizes to choose from, and there will be an impedance specification as well (be cautious of ohms vs, mOhms which is 0.001 ohms)

If I select 1000uF I can see they are all rated at 25V, but come in different dimensions. Typically the tall skinny ones have the best ESR ratings due to having more aluminum on contact with the leads inside of the device. Note they are all rated at 105C, so this means at "normal" running temperatures around 80C will have exceptionally long life.

Now you will also see a ripple-current rating which doesn't quite correlate with the ESR. This is related to many physical properties of the device, and without knowing the design itself, all you can do is over-select the part. These parts should be quite a bit better than what is installed on your boards now.

It's been almost 4 years, and about a month ago my 40" Samsung started taking a few seconds to turn on, and now after a month I'm up to about 5 minutes with the clicking and white screens and then the pixilated color screen. After about 5 minutes it finally turn on, but it appears to be getting worse...

Is Samsung sending free capacitors? From all the posts here, is seems like a major flaw...

Guess I'll be opening up the back and looking for popped capacitors.

This is my 2nd Samsung. My 1st Samsung dlp was fixed 6 times under warrantee, and finally frys gave up and let me have a new dlp. I'm love samsungs tv, but this quality issue needs to fixed.

Hello all, first off i'd like to thank everyone for the great input, unfortunately my DIY zeal overstepped my cautiousness. I have a LN32a330 samsung that refused to power on. I scoured all the forums I could and replaced my cap with a 1000uf/ 35v 106c. Unfortunately, the old cap was a 2200uf/10v!! The TV turns on but the red light blinks 4x and then goes off. TV's on and sounds good, but I've become worried that I may have screwed up everything else. I've ordered a 2200uf/16v 105c and am now waiting for the part...my question is: Did I just blow out my TV and risk my house burning down? Hopefully this is just an "oops, I'll fix it" and not a "honey, I didn't mean to melt the TV."

Hello All, I would like to thank all of you for your information regarding this stupid clicking and not turning on issue. After reading a lot of responses, I cam across one that said SAMSUNG WOULD FIX IT! And they DID! My TV is almost 4 years old and OUT OF WARRANTY, however SAMSUNG is offering a free capacitor repair/replacement for TV's that meet the criteria. One day after calling Samsung, my TV is FIXED for FREE! You need to call up the main 800 Samsung number and give them your serial number (hopefully you registered it on their site when you purchased it). Samsun put in a service request which must include a "Capacitor Consent" from Samsung to the service location. After making an appointment, the tech came out and fixed my 46" LCD for Free! Working Great!!! Please try this if you are not good at soldering!

the only problem i have is that when i told the tv repair shop (the one samsung told me to go to) they didn't care really about the authorization number, but rather in my original bill of sale which they said was ABSOLUTELY needed if I wanted the work done. They also were very adamant about telling me i was responsible for any other problems which may be inside the tv that they MIGHT find. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but that sounds kinda like "we want to know how much extra to charge you." Although i admit to making the cap mistake, I'd rather it be an $8 learning experience instead of a $100 plus labor rip-off. Just my opinion. Hopefully you have a better feeling towards the repair people in your area.

I guess if you're good with fixing stuff like that. After reading the previous post, I feel like I would have messed up my TV too. I was worried about the repair shop pulling some scam too. But after reading the details of the problem, I was sure it was capacitors. I would not allow them to fix any other problem. But it sounds like your local store is being difficult. Maybe your product was never registered?

The #1,2,3 HDMI ports have quit working (Samsung 32LD5400 120Hz LED TV). Port #4 is working,(?Separate Circuit?)... I have tried ALL types of plug, unplugged, repositioning, etc.. and nothing works in port#1,2,3. But I can watch TV normally via port #4. What do I need to do, how easy is replacing the #1,2,3 board? etc,etc,... HHeeelllppppp.. Thanks!!!