Ask any facialist which beauty bugbear they are asked about most frequently and chances are that dark circles under eyes will feature at the top of the list. Whether the result of a sleepless night, long-haul flight or simply a stressful week, it seems visibly tired eyes have long been a universal beauty woe.

It's probably something to do with the connotations of dark shadows under the eye. It suggests tiredness, rising stress levels and a general aura of exhaustion. You never see a wellness influencer or designer's millennial muse with dark shadows under their eyes (whether the secret is, in fact, inner peace, or Insta-filter trickery).

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So what really causes these shadows? “Dark circles can be caused by two different factors, which may be affected by both genetics and lifestyle choices,” explains Dr Dennis Gross, dermatologist and founder of his eponymous skincare range. “The first cause is pigmentation, which basically means there is darkening of colour in the skin. This can be hereditary, but may also be caused by sun damage.” The other cause of dark circles is dilated veins. “When veins under the eye dilate, they become bigger and darker. This happens as a result of exhaustion, seasonal allergies and dietary factors,” he explains.

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The best way to ascertain the cause of your dark circles is with a pinch test, according to Dr Gross. “If you pinch the skin and lift it off the surface and it stays brown, this means you have a pigment concern. On the other hand, if the colour looks better when you do this, you likely have an issue with dilated veins.” So, with how to reduce dark circles the question on everyone's minds, we spoke to the experts to reveal exactly what will – and what won't – get rid of dark circles for good.

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Address your diet

Any quest to get rid of dark circles should begin with a thorough assessment of your diet, according to Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare. “While there aren’t any fast dietary fixes for dark circles, maintaining a nutritious anti-inflammatory diet full of fresh fruits, vegetables, whole grains, lean protein and healthy fats can bring about visible skin improvements all over the body – including the eye area,” she says. Unfortunately, Dr Gross adds, that nightly glass of merlot and after-dinner espresso may need to go, too. “Small changes in your diet like consuming less red wine and caffeine can reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes,” he says.

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Sleep better

“Not getting enough sleep doesn’t cause dark circles; rather, it exaggerates their appearance,” explains Begoun. “Take whatever steps you can to ensure a better night’s sleep, with the number-one priority being to enable the night mode setting on your phone and tablet all day long. This minimises blue light, which is proven to disrupt our natural sleep cycle.”

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Wear sunscreen

“As we know, getting enough quality sleep is important for keeping dark circles from becoming more visible. However, it’s even more important to wear sun protection,” warns Begoun. “Committing to daily sunscreen use and not getting a tan (whether from the sun or, worse, a tanning bed) is vital for reducing the appearance of dark circles,” she says. If you want to protect and cover simultaneously, look for an under-eye concealer that contains a broad-spectrum SPF, such as Perricone MD No Concealer Concealer, £29.

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Look at your health

If you’re a smoker, Begoun’s advice is clear: “Do whatever you can to quit,” she says. “Research has shown that smoking cigarettes and inhaling second-hand smoke worsens dark circles, as does being overweight and having high cholesterol or triglycerides – both of which can be reduced via dietary changes, medication and exercise. Essentially, anything you do to make yourself healthier will make some amount of difference in the appearance of dark circles.”

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Fake it with make-up

To remove dark circles in an instant, consider a little make-up trickery. The key? “It’s all about colour correction,” says Claire Mulleady, global senior make-up artist for MAC Cosmetics. “Firstly, take a look at the colours that you are trying to conceal. It’s common to see dark, blue/grey colours, which means you need the warmth of a peachy concealer to counteract the undertones. If you see more pinky/red tones you need to neutralise them with a concealer that has more of a yellow base,” she advises. And when it comes to application, it pays to go lightly. “Using just a thin veil of the right tone has much more of an impact than trying to eradicate dark circles completely with lots of coverage,” says Mulleady.

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Conceal, don’t reveal

If a neutralising concealer isn’t quite doing the job, you can try this clever trick of the light. “Subtle light-reflective products, such as MAC Prep + Prime Highlighter Pen, £21, can help to bounce the light out from under the eye and are especially good on the inner corner of the eye,” says Mulleady. “Just be sure to use a lightweight powder on top, so as not overemphasise the under-eye area.”