steepest inclines, making it sometimes impossible to introduce mechanisation.

In fact, as far back as winegrowers can remember, some sites have never seen a

tractor. The only justification for enduring such adverse growing conditions is the

quality of the wines (coaxed out of the outstanding ‘terroir’ and remarkable

microclimate). Their reputation stems not only from the ‘terroir’, though, but also

from quality grape varieties and the expertise of the wine growers. The wines are

well-structured, robust, aromatic and complex. Both the reds and the whites

(probably with the exception of the Viogniers) are suitable for laying down. Low

yields and boutique vineyards, where harvesting can often be completed in a

day, enable wine growers in the northern Côtes du Rhône to provide an

extremely comprehensive range of wines in each appellation.

SOUTHERN CÔTES DU RHÔNE: this region stretches from the southern part of the Drôme department, over half of Vaucluse, the southern tip of Ardèche and along the right bank of Gard. The name ‘Côte du Rhône’ dates back to the 15th century when it referred to one of two areas around Uzès under the control of a

magistrate which was branded onto barrels dispatched from the port of

Roquemaure. Unlike its more northerly neighbour, single-crop farming is

characteristic of the southern wine region. Many villages are entirely devoted to

wine growing. ‘Côtes du Rhône’ wine is by far the most prevalent and the

‘villages’ (16 villages are allowed to append their name to the appellation) stand

at the pinnacle of the local growths.

Producing vast quantities of wine does not preclude quality, neither at regional

AC or Côtes du Rhône Villages level, and of course, even less so for the five local

(or growth) appellations - Lirac, Tavel, Vacqueyras, Gigondas and

Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Blending (see under varietals) is the norm for these

appellations. The rosés (interestingly, Tavel only produces this colour of wine) are

made by the ‘bleeding’ process or the direct-to-press method. Yield restrictions

(35 hl/ha in Vaucluse and 42 to 48 hl/ha in Gard for the growths, 42 hl/ha for

Côtes du Rhône Villages and 52 hl/ha for regional Côtes du Rhône) are one of the