is this true?? and is it worth it?

i was reading around the interweb for possable suggestions to my STILL ever looming boost gremlin. i came across this. makes sense what there saying but what do you lot recon?

CRANKED WASTEGATE:
The nice thing about this mod is that its free power. However, there are atleast two things you SHOULD have done to not worry about anything bad happening this write-up IS to get you lots of power efficiently right? Anywho, the wastegate is a small flapper valve inside the exhaust side of the turbo that opens to allow exhaust gases to go around the turbine, and thus keeps the turbo from spooling up anymore. The way it works is you have an actuator with a vac nipple and an actuator rod. As you build boost, the charged air goes through the line into the actuator, and pushes on a piston inside, that then pushes the rod. The rod is attached to the flapper, so when the rod moves, the flapper opens. To crank the wg, you move the 2 nuts downward to pull the rod away from the actuator. This way, the flapper stays closed longer, thus giving you quicker spool, a higher boost spike, and more boost at redline. Youll need a 10mm open end wrench for this. Get around to the passenger side of the engine bay, and look down behind the head. Youll see the rod. First, turn the bottom nut down (clockwise) say 5 full turns. Next, tighten the top nut the same way. Once both are tight, youre ready to go. Go drive the car and watch your boost levels, and if you feel safe, dont tighten anymore. If you feel like doing as much as possible, turn the bottom nut until you have about 1.5-2 full turns LEFT and stop there. If you go too far, youll completely shut the flapper and not have any boost control.

sounds like they're suggesting increasing the preload on the actuator, and that can produce boost spiking and ecu faults if not done carefully. I certainly wouldnt be doing that to an engine thats already got problems

my boost problem being... inconsistency. (hope thats the spelling)
i have owned many turboed cars and this 1 is the most female of them all!! (no offence ladys) 1 day it will run at 5psi all day long. next day it will run at 7psi (as it should) most days its running 10ish (which is a bonus) the past few days its been there when it want to be at about5-6 psi.

i have checked the following...

hoses :- all good
turbo:- its been taken off and had a visual check, all seems well and not oily
n75f valve. has been binned and replaced with a J valve. (this did sort the problem for a week or two)
wireing, all been checked, all is well.
car has been serviced, new oil, new filters, even new water!! lol (coil packs are quite new)
dump valve has been taken off... cleaned.. re-lubed and put back on.

yep im all standerd appart from the forge re-circ, air filter, n75j, and a few slicone hoses.

i have had it plugged into vag-com for a dianostics and it told me it had a intermitent fault on the n75. appart from that (as far as i know) its standerd. it does beat my mates 05 audi a3 1.8t and sits on scoobis bumpers. (on a private road of corse) im thinking my DV is **** tbh. i would love a re-map too! just a little expensive for our budget tho.

my boost problem being... inconsistency. (hope thats the spelling)
i have owned many turboed cars and this 1 is the most female of them all!! (no offence ladys) 1 day it will run at 5psi all day long. next day it will run at 7psi (as it should) most days its running 10ish (which is a bonus) the past few days its been there when it want to be at about5-6 psi.

i have checked the following...

hoses :- all good
turbo:- its been taken off and had a visual check, all seems well and not oily
n75f valve. has been binned and replaced with a J valve. (this did sort the problem for a week or two)
wireing, all been checked, all is well.
car has been serviced, new oil, new filters, even new water!! lol (coil packs are quite new)
dump valve has been taken off... cleaned.. re-lubed and put back on.

cranking your wastegate is not a good idea, any more than buying a manual boost controller and upping the boost is.
you will spike and run lean if you are lucky, if you are not you will burn or drop a valve and smoke the engine.

your car will think it is running at 9psi and you will be running at whatever you decide to crank it up to, no extra fuel, no map to deal with the extra boost.

you need to get your car on VAGCom and check requested vs actual boost and any other associated pressures.
if your n75 has faults change it
are you running a dump or a recirc valve?

completely agree with jcb. you cant just adjust one type of the engine boost in this case without the air and fuel to make it work. i learnt that with my mbc when i made my entire turbo and exhaust manifold glow orange!!!!!!!!!! lack of oil, fuel, air!!!!!!!

im running a re-circ, and i have changed my n75 valve due to the fault showing up. i went for the n75J insted of a F. just come back in from mates house and the car is boosting to 10psi spiking to 12. yesterday it was running 5 psi!!! i have not touched a thing!! lol

as for the cranked waistegate thing, i didnt think it was good as i have heard none of you talk about it.

when servicing my DV i could compress the spring with my fingers. should it have more tention than that? and could that be my prob??

i been playing today.... i have orderd a vag-com lead... i have also tryed my m8s F valve and it makes no difference so it aint the n75. orderd a new spring from FORGE so we will see what happens there.

Have you checked the wiring to the N75, and the hoses going to and from it - could be issues with these, especially given the intermittent nature of the fault, and the fact you have been moving stuff around in this area...

its sole purpose is to stop the compressor stalling by allowing boosted charge somewhere to go when the throttle closes

as long as its working and not leaking then i cant see what the issue is.

the only possible reason i can see for changing the stock one for something else is a) you want a chavvy atmospheric valve that munts the engines fuel mix and afm readings or b) your running a lot of boost and the stock valve cant cope, but the 710N replacements are perfect here

there are a lot of companies out there that will happily take your money for products with little or no benefit to you other than lightening your wallet, and unless you've a seriously mental engine with a lot of power the dump valve is a perfect example of this

Just saying that i didnt like it but i was running a remapped ecu. all i can say is satndard dump valve for whatever reason car felt sluggish. got a forge 007 and woohoo more boost and picks up alot better. and belive it or not had a quiter woosh noise!!!!!!!!

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