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Arrange a third of the berries on top of the mousse, and repeat the layers twice. The first two layers are a good place for any lessthan-perfect berries. medium bowl. Discard the contents of the strainer and stir the puree (you should have about '12 cup) into the sugar syrup. Add the lemon juice and set aside until it's time to assemble the trifle. Assemble the trifle: With a serrated knife, slice the cake into three equal round layers. (If you're using wineglasses, cut the layers into squares the approximate size of the glasses.) Set a 9-inch-wide springform ring or cake ring that's about 3 inches tall onto a flat serving plate. Put one cake layer on the bottom. With a pastry brush, moisten the cake well with the soaking liquid (it should be well moistened but not sodden). Spread on one-third of the mousse and then arrange one-third of the remaining 4'12 cups berries over the mousse. Place the second cake layer on top, moisten it with more soaking liquid, and repeat with another third of the mousse and another third of the berries. Do a third layering, ending with the remaining berries arranged on top. Refrigerate the trifle until the mousse has firmed, at least 3 hours and no longer than a day. Remove the cake form or ring just before serving and cut the trifle into slices like a cake. Raspberry-Lemon Granite Yields 4 cups; serves eight. I like this granite because it's not too sweet but if you want it sweeter, increase the sug by a couple of tablespoons. 2 cups water % 1 A spritz of sparkling water makes this granite bubble refreshingly. Scraping with a spoon is the easiest way to serve it. Chilled sparkling water for spritzing % (Y2 cup In a small saucepan, combine '12 cup of the water and all the sugar. Cook over high heat, stirring, until the sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside. Pass the berries through a food mill fitted with a fine disk or force them through a fine sieve, mashing with a wooden spoon, into a medium bowl. You should have about '12 cup puree; set it aside and discard the contents of the strainer. Whisk in the sugar syrup, the lemon juice, and the remaining 1'12 cups water. Pour into a baking pan and freeze until solid. To serve, scrape the granite with a spoon and portion it into martini glasses. Pour a dash of sparkling water on each portion and serve. Michelle Polzine is a pastry chef who lives in San Francisco . • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2002 69 cup granulated sugar pint) fresh raspberries cup fresh lemon juice �r