AMC Engine Specifications:
Here are some specs that are common to almost all AMC V8 motors.
Torque Sequence:

I usually find it easiest to just dip the end of the bolt into a fresh container of motor oil.
And while ARP and other companies manufacture a grease/lube that they require you to use if you are going
to install their product. But if you are going to be installing stock pieces, then this will throw off the
torque settings.
Another thing that I learned is that a 50/50 combo of cam lube(looks like motor honey) and motor oil, work great
for the assembly of most engine parts. It is not too thick, barely affects torque settings, and stays where you put it.

Critical clearances & fit:
Make sure you have you browser set to full screen, otherwise the information will not line up.
These are not the original specs, but used for blueprinting.
Normal use is Stage 1. Street/strip is Stage 2. Full race is Stage 3.

401 and 390 cranks are not recommended to swap into 290 or 304 blocks.
There will need to be some clearancing done to the block for the rods, and pistons skirts.
401 cranks will drop into a 360, or 390 block. And the 390 bore is the same as
a 401, but the 390 block is not all that common.
360 and 304 cranks are the same stroke, so there is no reason to swap. And if
you have a 290, then it would be easier to get a bigger block.
A 401 crank in a 360 block is a good combo. It ressembles the Chevy 383 set-up.
But a little bigger, 385, without boring, and 390 at .030 over.
But needs special made pistons or bushed pin holes in the rods.