Diary October - November 2017

​Tuesday 17th October 2017

England

We are devestated to hear the news of the forest fires in Portugal. It's is hard to get information about the second wave of fire that has hit the valleys leading up from Coja to Enxudro, and difficult in the confusion to pinpoint the sequence of events. What is clear so far is that there was a first wave of fire originating in Pampillosa da Serra which spread over the top of Picota into Enxudo at the end of last week. Sr Sergio and Sr Mario worked with the bombeiros, and the fire spread to just a few metres above the water tank in Cassaca, but we understand the quinta buildings were saved. That fire over, we breathed a sigh of relief that the village and the quintas were intact, even though much of the surrounding valleys we understand were devastated, with little vegetation remaining. The second wave of fire we learnt about yesterday, and is much more worrying. Sr Sergio is not in the village, it is empty, and the bombeiros are stretched to the limits, with little likelihood that they can attend if a fire has spread that far. What is known is a fire has devestated the Mata da Margaraça, and spread to Pardieros, down to Benfeita, Dreia, Casal de São João, Pisão and towards Coja. There has also been a spread upwards from Fraga da Pena to Sardal, and that means there is the potential for further spread up the valley from Sardal to Enxudro. Electricity lines and phone lines have been cut, due to the fire, and water pipes have been burnt, so some areas are without water. What we do know is Sr Sergio is travelling back to the village today, and this afternoon we may be able to contact him, and hear more about what the impact of the second wave a fire has been on the village and the quintas. Phone connectivity is not certain however, as there may be mobile phone masts damaged, or without power. With so many other fires in Portugal repairs might take some time. If the quinta is saved, we can go ahead with our visit planned in less that 10 days time, as the quinta can run just about independently. If it has not been spared, the future is less certain. What is clear is that so far the forestry combined with the fire zone clearance and strimming we asked Sr Sergio to do in the summer have helped so far to save the quintas and defend of the village. The wind yesterday was from the south to the north, so (although a light wind) blowing the fire in Sardal away from Enxudro. The biggest blessing, if the forecast is borne out in reality, is there are at least four or five days of heavy rain, which should now have started, and which should help control or put out the fires.We wait in anxious anticipation of further news.

​Friday 27th October 2017

Proof that all was well with the Cassaca building at least came with the arrival in a taxi from Arganil, loaded up with us, supplies and shopping, and bags from England. The debris from the fires became evident on the coach from Coimbra, stretching far to the horizon, mountain upon mountain covered with dusky brown pines and eucalyptus, what has remained from the fire that has devestated much of this area. Picota is charred. Though much is black, the overwhelming colour is pale dusky brown, from the natural death of the deciduous tree leaves at this time of year, and the singed pine needles and eucalyptus leaves, from trees which although still standing, are probably not going to survive. It does look like a war zone. People are stunned, and shocked.How Cassaca survived is luck, though Sr Mario and Sr Sergio must be to praise, and the bombeiros who for some reason decided to help save the quinta, when pushed beyond limits. Also too the preparations we made helped, the fire zone, and the clearance of vegetation. The rest of the quinta has burnt, from the top slopes of Cassaca, to the bottom terraces of Cortelha. But, as with all in the area, not all has burnt, much survives, in islands and pockets of good fortune. All of the UBC tanks have survived, the water connection from the mina has not. We met Sr Mario on the way here in Sardal, whose inhabitants are still without water, with a big roll of thick water pipe, on his way to fix the water for the village. He has taken down the salamander chimney, as it was too blocked to clean, and ordered a new one from Cercol. We can keep it for Cortelha in the future, and burn off the tar deposits one day when a suitable opportunity arises in a big bonfire. But certainly not now, no bonfires now at all.The vegetables did not survive, after being abandoned at the end of March. Disappointingly the potatoes did not grow, they obviously need more water, but the onions did, and we can harvest them. The fire has burnt much of what was left, but the pig fence is saved, even though many vines have been burnt, with what look like abundant grapes, the remains of which are very sweet. Most of the citrus on Cortelha look remarkably good, the beautiful orange on Cassaca has succombed to the flames.This evening in this most blessed, but very cobwebbed and mouse poohed and uninviting quinta, we have cleared space to sleep and prepare food, and will eat and breathe a sigh of relief that this all is now over. Water rations must start tomorrow, as Cortelha spring is dry, as well as the mina, and the connection is down. Much to do, much more to think about, and even more to evaluate and consider. But now, food and rest.

Saturday 28th October 2017

I am having a well earned cup of tea, after a day of getting rid of mouse and lizard pooh, dust, and gothic cobwebs. The quinta has begun to feel a bit more like home again, after a dispiriting arrival yesterday. Like the growing beds, whose promise of bounty and pleasure long since passed in late May, with at least six months since we were last here, the interior of the quinta building has reverted back to nature of a different sort, rodent, reptile and arachnid. Quite where all the dust has come from I am not sure, as the windows and doors have been kept shut. It has been a hard day as I have had disturbed sleep for far too many nights now, what with arrangements, and travel, and last night a mouse (or lizard) rusting about again. I think with the sweeping and cleaning, and moving of the gargantuan sofa, the weight of which defies understanding (and lifting, especially as the joints have become worn and loose), we have exposed what looks like their buried entry hole, which presumably links up to a complex of tunnels underneath the mountain, as this entrance hole is buried way deep in the rock in a part of the house far away from the exterior. This evening we will set a mouse trap, as I plan to open some cheese for supper.The large solar panel frame has broken, so I am not sure what will be the outcome, as I don't really want to waste time rebuilding it, as a new site for the panels is very close on the list of the next things to do. We can put up one frame for now at least. The sun has been intense and full, and it is warm here, much warmer than I expected. Little progress yet has been made on photographing and documenting the fire damage, but at least we can cook comfortably (and safely) now.

Sunday 29th October

Today was an early start, and a full day, all with the background of a perfect blue sky. I rose before dawn, prepared lunch and started washing a big pile of laundry. It didn't take too long to get back into using the lavanderia. I have also found my headtorch, which works wonders for ease of movement at minimal energy usage, when it's dark. After breakfast, and rinsing and hanging out the laundry, I spent a little while on Cortelha harvesting the onions that have survived, and collected acorns and chestnuts for broadcasting over the burnt bits of the quinta. We walked across what once we thought could become a forest garden, and down over the xisto wall, to the land sold to me by sr Virgilio, which is now clear to walk across. We have at last found that boundary, and there are a good supply of damaged pines to harvest for the future. About half way up the 10 metre boundary from the wall, there is what appears to be either a quarry, or where someone has begun digging a mina. It is also clear to walk the upper slopes below the first forest road, by the mina. Up beyond and above, all is just black, where the trees were previously felled. All the chestnuts and oaks seem to have survived however, so even though they don't really stop fire, they do look like they will be able to regenerate, whereas many pines look as if they probably wont. Walking along the upper slopes it is clear to see many very high terraces, previously obscured by vegetation, and agriculture once stretched high up close to the peak of Picota. There is a set of three or four terraces, and what looks like an area for drying corn, very close to the summit, perched high. The view must be fantastic, and there must be water somewhere there.I racked off 5 litres of what we decided would be called 'Wild Mateus', and this rosé wine from the quinta is acually drinkable. Consequently a glass at lunchtime sapped my resolve to press ahead with getting things organised, and we had a nice sesta, after pasta and salad. After the afternoon cafezinho I checked the water tank, and it looks absolutely fine, very full, and working perfectly. I cleaned a little ash debris from the gutters, and things look good inside. We should probably clear out the tank next year if possible, once the supply pipe to the mina is re-established. This evening I have spent some time on Cortelha flat beds, beginning the task of tidying up all the mess from the weeds, the overgrown vines and the charred remains from the fire, which spread even there. Somehow the corner of the roof of Cortelha animal house has collapsed, possibly it was used as a vantage point during the fire. It will be a relatively simple job hopefully to repair, as we need to ensure the wood is kept dry when the winter rains come. So now, a hot shower, soup, and likely an early rest, with a little bit of Greek Mythology before sleeping. ​

​onday 30th October 2016

The wildness from without came in last night, but the mouse trap did it's job, or partially did its job. I had to finish off by putting everything in a bucket of water to dispatch the creature as swiftly as possible. It's not pleasant, but job done. There is another in the trap now. Much of today has been spent taming the wilderness on Cortelha flat beds, and what speedy progress has been made. I am very impressed with the growing beds, despite what they did produce long seeming to have disappeared, leaving just traces of past bounty. The odd decent sized potato unearthed, the fairly large garlic bulbs, things did grow but became dessicated, and overwhelmed with weeds, abandoned by that most important figure in a garden, the gardener. However, the system has kind of worked, as there is evidence that the beds are becoming more fertile, and evidence that some things did work and grew, even though pittifully few remain in the negelcted wilderness. I have decided too that the paths between the beds are best left as they are, with weeds growing, as the weeds provide valuable mulch which is absent in the aftermath of the fire, and also a refuge for flowers, bees and insects, as there are few if any wild flowers growing around now, apart from my growing beds, and the paths between. This morning I tidied the compost beds to make room for the dry remains from the bottom half of the beds, and I am surprised to find that they have all burnt, and produced what looks like a fabulous compost. Of all the things that have burnt on the flat beds, it seems to be the compost that has burt the most. I am wondering if the compost proves to be really good, whether burning it would be a good idea in the future, and would provide weed free rich compost for the onion seed beds. Half of the six beds I plan to carry on with for now have been cleared, and forked over, or dug (in the case of the potato bed, with hardly any potatoes). Contrary to expectations, Mario was true to his word, and came today to fix the chimney, so the salamander is now functional, and an important thing done from the list of emergency repairs. It was good to hear news of the fire, and apparently Sr Mario and Sr Sergio caught the bombeiros on the way out as they were about to leave, and told them to go and save the little house up here. They were persuaded by reports that we had gas bottles inside, as they were off to fight more fire, so came here and saved Eira dos Vales.We had a perfect picnic lunch, probably the best pizza ever cooked here, a real Picota pizza, with centeio (or rye bread) base, all on the lovely Cortelha flat beds steps with the wonderful mountain view and a flask of coffee, and what are some of the the few remaining grapes which weren't burnt plucked from the vine, super sweet, and super luscious. If things had been different, this year would have been a great wine producing year, with the first harvest of good quality grapes from the pruned vines there. We have one other bounty from the quinta, as there is always something, a pear that has never fruited has lots of pears on this year. Things are a suprise here, nothing predicatable, but with faith and a wish and a promise, something good always turns up. I am having a great time at the quinta, I am so glad to be back.​

​Tueasday 31st October 2017

With the solar charger indicator on an optimistic 14 volts, and another hot sunny blue sky day ahead, it is time to sit down calmly, recharge the computer and take stock of what is going on, and where we are going. Time to do the 'to do' list, and the accounts. This morning has been a bit of a whirl of activity, as Fernando said yesterday that he can take the car in now to be repaired, so the guincho (tow truck) is coming up from the village, where Fábio has gone to meet the driver and give him directions to the quinta. This has meant there will be a valuable opportunity to get transport to buy some supplies, and place an order with ArgoCôja for a delivery of things we need, principally to repair damage done by the fire, but also to make progress with things that routinely need to be done at the quinta. Without a huge amount of time to prepare, we have hastily compiled a list this morning, and we should be able to press ahead with repairing the animal house roof, and organising the wood, reconnecting the water supply to the mina, and finishing off the irrigation to Cortelha flat beds. There are many other jobs that could be added list, but as ever it's about focus and priorities, and without that it's easy to get lost and distracted. All that weeding and digging has made my body a little weary today, but I plan this afternoon to make more progress clearing the weedy top halves of the the beds. This morning will be an opportunity rest a little doing household chores, and catching up with the accounts. Tomorrow we plan to both work together to sort out the situation regarding wood and storage for the winter. I think there is enough wood to last, it just needs to be stored safely away from the rain, which is forecast on Thursday. However none of that can take place without first striming the path to Cortelha, which is covered with trailing brambles, and in need of the strimmer. To strim we need the cord, hence the trip today for supplies. I have been thinking a lot about an electric mulching machine, which could serve a number of purposes, but principally allow us to manage clearance of vegetation to prevent fire. The problem with clearing the fire zone, is what do you do with the stuff you have cleared? The only viable option is to stack it all in piles at least 50 metres along the road to rot, but that would take many years, and the pile could get big. We could think of this as a resource, more than a nuisance. Two machines would help very much with managing the fire zones. One a circular saw, to more easily chop up branches for the salamander, and a mulching machine for the leaves and twigs. This mulch could have a number of important uses, as mulch for growing vegetables (suppressing weeds, enriching the soil and retaining moisture), as a base material to compost, dried as an additional fuel for the fire, and also as a much better addition to the composting toilet (being lighter than soil) to mix in and suppress the smell, and provided vegetable matter to decompose and make very good humanure. These two additions, although expensive could help us get to where we want to be. So weighing up the cost and the bother and nuisance of having machines, with the sinplicity but time involved in trying to do things by hand, we will need to reach a conclusion about whether this is a good path to go down or not. Apparently, Mario said that the real thing that saved the quinta was that the wind changed direction just before the fire got here, and the threat from the flames subsided. How much in life can depend on the consequences of a change in direction of the wind.​

Wednesday 1st November 2017

Rain is on it's way, and nobody will be sad here! Today was the last opportunity therefore, to do a temporary reapir on the animal house roof to protect all the dry kindling and pine cones inside, and to move a big pile of sticks put along the forest road by Sr Francisco and Fábio last year down inside the top floor of Cortelha. With all that upheaval a tidy up was needed to make space for the new arrivals, and with the tidying exasperation at how we have managed to cope without proper organised storage space for so long, and how we seem to have accumulated so may pairs of wellies with holes in, broken solar lights awaiting repair, miscelaneous bits of building materials, alongside machine tools, rolls of fencing, old chestnut chairs with woodworm, suitcases full of clothes with holes in and far to many items with potential future use to mention, which at present are taking up valuable and limited space. They all had to budge up and make room, and the dry wood ready to saw at a later date is now taking up most of the space there, the most valuable thing to have on a cold wet day in winter on the top of a mountain. With that done we spent the rest of the day breaking up dry twigs and branches, and collecting pine cones from the land cleared next to Cortelha, the next area that needs to become a 'fire zone', or rather a 'fire free zone' in the future, as we have all had quite enough of fires around here, and need to do all that can be done to protect the quinta buldings and the land in the future. Mario thinks the idea of planting chestunts and oaks is a very good one, and what people used to do around here, and gave us some tips on planting, as we were going to just throw the chestnuts on the floor, broadcast. Apparently they like to be put the right way up, and in about two thirds depth of soil, no doubt with a wish and a prayer for a happy future. We will probably try both methods, as the area is large, and all that knee bending might be a bit much after a while. I have already collected half a bucket, but we have decided to go on a mission for the right chestnuts (not the French ones) and acorns, and we want to try and catch everything at the right time, in the window of opportunity created by the fire burning all the vegetation and ferns, and giving the nuts an opportuity. However with many of the trees damaged by the fire, locating the right ones might be less easy, just found in the remaining island of undamaged forest that ajoins our quinta down along the road to the village. We can no longer go to the Mata da Margaraça for inspiration, as ninety five percent of it has gone up in smoke, vanished forever now. The area to be planted is all of the big terrace above the English corner, by the mina up to the first forest road, and the section below the English corner, to the wall with Sr Virgilio's extra land, which is now mine. In the future the trees can be coppiced, to give a sustainable source of ideally sized timber for fuel and construction. The only other addition I think we need is the acacia trees that grow wild here, which I understand fix nitrogen, we must do a bit more investigating. I am so excited about this part of the project. Delivery day tomorrow, scaffolding (which we don't actually need right now but will do in the future as Mario has fixed the salamander chimney), black pipe (which I don't actually need for the irrigation as I found some other old pipe, but which we really do need to reconnect the mina to the tank, which is currently dry) and corrugated iron for the hole in the roof I temporarily repaired today (but which will need a more robust repair in these mountain winds).I have come up with the idea of ideally slate roofing tiles (or if not ceramic roofing tiles) to be put on the exterior of the verandah as a much better protection against fire. It might be difficult to get them in Portugal, but definitely will be possible in the UK, and would be within budget. We need to chat with Mario and see what he thinks about the idea. The remaining wood around the window frames etc. could be covered with zinc, or something like the guttering used here cut to shape. This would really help protect against the flying embers in a fire, which could settle on the wood, and which can be found all around on the ground here at the moment. Slate tiles would be best, as this is a slate/xisto environment, but ceramic roof tiles would be a good second best. A plan at the embryonic stage, but in the forefront of our minds at present.All the exertion has left little energy or opportunity to finish the weeding on Cortelha flat terrace today before the rain comes, but we can weed after the rain, it will just be slightly more difficult, and we really need the rain before planting can start, which has all been thought out before hand. I am going off the idea of using black plastic to cover the last four beds that have been abandoned for a while now, and coming round to the idea that a mulching machine would help create piles of forest mulch that could just sit on those beds instead, and create wonderful compost for the future making it much easier to manage the beds.

Thursday 2nd November 2017

The rain has come, and the mountain is looking slate grey. I enjoy this kind of subdued weather, and the accompanying slightly melancholic but forward looking mood. We have spent the morning having tea and biscuits at the verandah table doing the accounts, and looking forward to a long term achievable plan for the next five years or so, accounting for both money and time to get where we want to be, and what the priorities are. A plan and a way forward, just what is now needed amongst the aftermath of the devastation. I have been speculating that the people who build all of these elaborate mountain constructions must also have known about the fire, and the consequences. I think they use fire and water direct fertile soil to the terraces. It would otherwise have been a enormously big taks to move all that soil by hand.The rain has eased off, and the temperature dropped. We are going to cook chinese style food, bread and pizza, and replenish and rejuvinate yesterday's beans to make a soup for the coming days, with artichokes from the quinta which have grown well, and some bits and bobs, potatoes, garlic, and anything else we can find. Happy quinta days. ​

Friday 3rd November 2017

The food yesterday was good, and even better was a long rest which has been overdue for quite a while now, and has helped restore body and mind. Today it's cloudy again with intermittent rain, and breakfast was late. The plan is to find a long straight pine to mend the solar panel frame, and get the final two panels up and running, at this time of year when solar electrical power generation is at it's most difficult, because of the could and the angle of the sun. We also have the delivery due, so we won't probably stray too far from the road, so we can see the van if (or when) they arrive. Food has been prepared and bread was cooked last night, but drying washing is difficult in this weather as it is not yet really cold, and we haven't lit the salamander. I would like to use the opportunity to see if we can collect more acorns or chestnuts for reforestation, and I think I will take a machete as well, to clear brambles.

Later

Things followed the general direction today, but we got usefully sidetracked, doing one of the quinta walks where things get discussed, and decisions made, and plans finalised. We collected first the rest of the chestnuts from under the tree by Sergio's tank, the majority of which were damaged by the fire, but some of which were not. Walking up to the olive terrace, we found that some of the trees really have begun to fruit properly now. It's going to be difficult to harvest this year more than a few jars, because there has been fire damage. The trees do need pruning now, and soon they should start producing something substantial. From the tank terrace we discussed plans for the land below the English corner. This we will strim, get the pines chopped and stacked for the coming few years, and we will plant chestnut and oak. We figure that the brambles don't grow that fast, and the trees should be able to grow in the gaps, and we stand a chance of strimming what needs to be, and using a machete to stop things getting too overgrown. On the higher terraces above there, things are less certain, as the ferns were growing very thickly before the fire, and we shall just have to see what succeeds and what doesn't. The best chestnuts and acorns therefore will be saved for below the English corner, planted as Mario suggested, up above we will broadcast as many as we can and hope for the best. From the middle terraces of Cassaca, we walked down to Tapadinha, and got a good view of the fire damage in the village, which got as far as all the old xisto barns at the end of the village and the terraces below them, including Donna Hilda's old cabbage patch. The extensive terraces up the valley are much more visible, and when the valley was populated and producing grain and crops, it must have been a very impressive. We found a big cluster of parasol mushrooms on one of the overgrown growing beds on Cassaca, so we had fried wild mushrooms, and corn bread made by Fábio yesterday evening, at lunchtime. We also found the missing bit of the animal house roof, which had blow down by the big chestnut trees below Cortelha. A sesta was postponed and afternoon work started with a little coffee, and biscuits. We then went for a very long walk and collected what has turned out to be a very bigh pile of assorted acorns from many of the trees along the forest road. Included are little acorns from cork oaks (which I didn't realise produced acorns). So we really do hope they will grow. This evening I have graded and sorted everything into top quality, possible fire damaged, and bottom quality. The top quality will be planted below the English corner, and the other spread on the upper slopes. It has been great to be in the forest, collecting acorns to spread and help the forest revive. It's something we might try and do every year, as there is a very large area of our own land up above that could do with help, as well as much of the valley, and beyond. With the colder and wetter weather, we have marked the transition from summer to autumn, and lit the salamander, which is working very well, with Mario's shiny new pipe, this time complete with and handle and flue mechanism. We will have to keep the salamander just for completely dry wood, which is possible now we are much better organised and prepared in advance with wood. If we reach a point of difficulty in the future, anything other that completely dry wood can be burnt on the old log burner upstairs, which functions as a cooking stove as well. New house rules in what is becoming a much more organised quinta. ​

Sunday 5th November 2017

As my time here is short, and there are always a pressing amount of things that need to be done here, out have come the planning lists again. Yesterday's list was mostly achieved, and I spent the morning cutting a small pine tree to make a replacement for the broken part of the solar panel frame, and I repaired it for now at least. I think the frame got patially burnt, but the wood has degraded in the strong sun, which is the reason for the frame breaking. It would take a good amount of time to build new frames, and as they were only ever meant to be a temporary measure, and are inefficient, time to consider putting the panels on a more permanent frame next time I am here. This would mean we can finally re-site the cables, and organise the lighting and electrics within the house. The options are for fixed panels attached to the house wall, or a permanent aluminium and cement joist frame sited on the ground. All of this will be possible when the pear tree has been chopped south of the house, as part of the improved fire safety measures. The disadvantage of fixed panels outdoors is that they might be stolen whilst we are away, but they are low maintenance. We will have to think and make a decision. We both worked on Cortelha growing beds in the afternoon, cutting the training vines and preparing the ground for strimming. I have also recomissioned the compost toilet, for a bit of compost toilet fertility action. This time we are experimenting with covering the offending matter with bracken and cut heather, as the receiving bucket will be easier to carry and compost better, and it is a good excuse to spend time in the fire zones cutting things back and clearing them. I hope it works.With a foggy morning, but sunshine promised, I am sitting at the marble table in the verandah, ready to contemplate and compile today's list. Breakfast this morning was fried parasol mushrooms on toast, very nice Portuguese coffee and fruit, what a nice way to start the day.​

Monday 6th November 2017

The scorched and blackened pines have formed tiger stripes on the lower hills in the valley below stretching across to the Serra do Carmulho, and were pronounced this morning in the early rays of sun, as I made my way down to use of the compost toilet for the first time this season, fresh with mountain greenery for comfort and odour control. All seems fine and I think it should work, though we need to be aware that the little mountain crabs live on the heather fronds, so we need to be careful they dont leap out and bite where we would not wish them. Yesterday we made great progress on preparing Cortelha growing beds for the autumn planting. Fabio strimmed the top terrace, and strawberry fields and under the peach tree, and I made good progress with nearly all the beds weeded now. I decided on our walk to Tapadinha that there is still quite a bit of vegetation for the toads and other creatures down the line of water and the barroco, so to carry on with the clearance of the beds in readiness for a completed irrigation system and planting. Another idea I have had is to complete planting on the rest of the beds with beans, and this gives us much more flexibilty to expand or contract planting with other crops as and when we need. There are never enough beans, and we can grow beans on any bed, at any point on the cycle. Weeding has unearthed a new problem, or not so new. The beds with fresh mulch from last year have decomposed into a fantastic crumbly soil texture, but I think the mulch was too fresh, and along again have come the weedy roots. I have long given up worrying about weeds here, and they have produced a fantastic big pile of vegetation for future mulch, but fresh mulch will not really work on the majority of beds, so I need for now to cut a lot of mulch in adavnce, and compost it for at least 6 months and ideally for longer. Actually vast quatities of mulch would be ideal, probably at least two terraces worth of composted mulch per planting season. There aren't really enough composting bins, and we could do with making some big piles to decompose ideally on the growing terrace itself. All might be much easier with the mulching machine, as there are endless twiggy bits that could be mulched, and they would be ideal particularly for the summer, as they would be weed free. The machine might have to come in the future, up until then we could get by strimming much more, and raking and collecting it.Today there is another blue sky, we haven't needed to light the fire. I am looking forward to the day outside.

Tuesday 7th November 2017

I think that sound was the German's shouting at Kevin, Sr Sergio's dog, who's manic bark echos and reverberates around the valley. Much to say, but today has been tiring. In brief, we have made huge strides over the last couple of days on the growing beds, yesterday clearing all the weeds, today setting all the stones in place, and digging and forking through the beds. We have dug, because the beds were abandoned, and it is the only way to get back on top of things. We need much more mature mulch, but as ever we will make do with what is available, and try and make more for the future. The next step will a completed irrigation system, and we have the equipment to finish it. Fabio has phoned Sr Fernando about the car. Initailly it seemed there would be difficulty getting a replacement engine, but now one seems to have been found. Sr Sergio came yesterday, and there was discussion about clearing the trees around the house, felling the pines below the English corner for fuel and to make way for the chestnust and oaks, and clearing the undergrowth next to Cortelha. He also has a car for sale, so one way or another something should be sorted soon. Everything has taken place amongst perfect autumn sunshine, and little birds finding food.

Wednesday 8th November 2017

We've done it, the growing beds have all been dug! I have a planting scheme in my mind which I now need to get down on paper. Then we will know what preparations need to be made to which beds, before laying out the irrigation. We have come in a bit early, as Fábio has had a call from Sr Fernando, and he has definitely found an engine for Tina Turner. Tomorrow early, he will leave to catch the bus, as Sr Fernando needs the money for the engine now, and there is opportunity therefore to get some provisions from Côja, so we need to prepare in advance. The meal this evening will be some very good smelling black beans, with fried potato, fried egg and salad, and after all the work, it is greatly anticipated.

Thursday 9th November 2017

It's now 11.35am, and after a pancake with goibada (guava jelly) and cheese, it is time to start the day outdoors having compled the morning chores indoors. Fábio is in Côja making arrangements about the car and getting provisions, and for me now all thoughts must turn to water. It's another super sunny day, which is great for being outdoors (it does mean frosty starts), but no rain means no more water for now. With no Cortelha spring running this time, there is even more urgency to get things right. I think, however I have hit on a plan to link up everything we have got, and provide a medium term solution to water usage, with the solar water heater linked up to the two big UBC tanks above the house, the verandah roof water going down a pipe to the pumping tank on the steps, and the redundant water storage UBC tank being moved below the fig tree and collecting all the waste water from the shower and lavanderia to be piped to the irrigation that is due to be installed on Cortelha flat beds. The kitchen water is the only issue, and this can be filtered to remove the bits, and could be poured down the lavanderia sink from the blue washing up bowls, which will complete the system for now. All I need to do from then onwards, is ensure there is a filter from the collecting UBC tank to collect any remaining bits that might block the irrigation, and we should have a fully functional water system with all flexibilities and possibilities covered for now. If all else ultimately fails, with the car working we would have to collect water in the 30 litre white plastic containers we use when on emergency water rations (which we have not yet reached so far) from the village. All of this would solve the issue we have at present with planting, which is that Cortelha growing beds are for the most part mountain dust, with some soggy bits. To plant, we need water....and so to work. I hope there is time to complete things before I leave in just over a week's time.

Friday 10th November 2017

Early in the morning

The rustling is back, amongst the cook books. I also noticed it yesterday, when I returned to the house from working outdoors. It is another mouse I am sure. I have removed the books, and found what I think is mouse pooh, and traces of nibbling in the plastic, which not likely to be caused by a lizard. I think I can see the hole as well, way up in the edge of the ceiling rafters. The plastic bag with rat glue on has gone in the bin, becaue that didn't work, and I have moved one of the mouse traps to the shelf. The best way to resolve the problem is to cement up the hole. Yesterday was an unsatisfying day. I felt a bit gloomy sorting out the burnt irrigation pipes by the mina, seeing work that had been done partially destroyed. Nothing important went up in the flames. Those that have lost relatives, houses and other significant assets must be feeling devastated. I spent the afternoon making preparations for laying the new pipes, organising and removing taps and redundant connections, connecting new valves and digging trenches for the new pipes to go in. Tomorrow we will both be working around the mina, and as well as relaying and reconnecting the main water pipe, we want to prune the olives, which is a desperately overdue job. Maybe we can pick enough olives to soak and prepare, and fill a jar at least. ​

​Saturday 11th September 2017

Yesterday the day was spent on the terrace by the mina, pruning the olives and clearing the undergrowth, and digging a trench ready for the pipe to be laid connecting water to Mario's tank. I really like olives, their soft new wood, their silvery leaves, their smell. They are just about indestructable, and can be productive for many years, a generous tree. I have taken cuttings from what was pruned, and they are currently in a bucket of water, waiting to go into the ends of the beds on Cortelha. I would like to establish an olive grove on the lower slopes (together with a vinyard, fruit orchard and citrus grove, and two areas set aside for future larger scale planting). Their are enough cuttings to do this, if the majority of them take root. Later in the afternoon I walked the perimiter of Cassaca, on the slopes with the most extensive fare damage. It is a bit of a Martian landscape up there, with a lot of loose ash and cinders. I am not sure what is going to happen when it rains hard. The area of land by the mina, which is quite large, was planted yesterday with chestnuts, acorns, and strawberry tree fruit (by the mina). It wasn't as difficult as imagined, and planted in the manner suggested by Mario. Today Sr Sergio has come to start clearing the land of undergrowth directly to the side of Cortelha, which will give better fire protection to that building. My plan is to use the pick axe to complete a trench down to the house and the tank for the water pipe, which once buried can be forgotten hopefully for a good while into the future. Burying the pipe will also help protect against fire. Being out and about in the slopes of the quinta gives plenty of opportunity to discover how the land was laid out in the past, and I have worked out that the puzzling slopes between terraces close to Cassaca were probably to get the animals up to graze, and back to bed. They could be cleared of undergrowth, and be developed as the wheelbarrow paths I have long thought needed to move things from slope to slope. This evening, I plan again to go to the the top slopes of Cassaca, and plant a new section of forest. ​

Sunday 12th November 2017

Progress was made on the pipe from the mina yesterday, but slower than hoped. I have yet to find the right balanced technique to use a pick axe, and it is quite a strain to use. What's been done is good, and I am hoping finally to connect with Mario's tank this morning, as the trench has been dug, and most of the fiddly connection with valves have been completed. I will need to try and make a better seal between the connectors and the UBC tanks, but what's been done works so far. Sergio's undregrowth clearance by the side of Cortelha is an excellent job done. As I had hoped, he has left all the trees I wanted, and trimmed and pruned them to give a better and easier to manage shape. It will greatly improve the control of fire around the building. The job now will be to clear the branches and undergrowth on the floor. With only a week to go before I leave, I am not sure what the direction will need to be for the rest of today, or the coming week. There is still the irrigation and planting on Cortelha to complete, I would have liked to have made progress of grey water collection and re-cycling, and now we have completed laying the mina pipe it would be a great opportunity to improve the connection and collection of water around the mina, as the existing collector was only ever meant to be a temporary solution, and the big grey storm drain pipe, although still intact was damaged by the flames.

Later

I will not forget the smell of my blue rancid rubber gardening gloves from this time in Portugal. They started off new, and have protected me well, but they stink, and the rancid rubber smell will probably still be on my hands when I retun to England. There is one thing further off the list of jobs today, as, armed with my blue gloves, I have pruned the vines, with Fábio in assistance chopping and collecting in the afternoon. I can see how the vines should function now, as the best vines pruned from last year at the citrus tree end of the terrace had about 15 well sized grapes (now shrivelled) hanging in the right way, and probably they were very sweet. That should produce about two to three litres of wine per mature vine. The other vines are a better shape than they were, and some have achieved almost as good a shape as they should become, but others have a long way to go, and the pruning was in some places even bolder than last year. It's a big job, but not much else really needs to be done now, until next year when hopefully we should have a grape harvest (a vindima).I am tired of black pipes, vine pruners, weeds and mountain dust, and much as I will miss the quinta, today we have come in early and after washing I will cook some chinese food. We need to have a bit of a party as pleasure and leisure haven't responded to their invitation to the quinta party so far. We have been far too preoccupied with sorting out the aftermath of the fire. Hopefully they will turn up this evening, unannounced and welcome guests at Eira dos Vales. ​

Monday 13th November 2017

Sunrise was for me on the upper slopes of Cassaca, making paths with a shovel amongst the ash, and planting vertical lines of oaks, and horizontal lines of chestnuts to mark the boundaries of the quinta. The uppermost point is marked with a 'lava tudo' bottle secured to steel rod, as people do around here. The vast slope, on which only a few battered oaks and chestnuts remain, amongst gnarled and blackened bitouros branches, has had acorns and chestnuts cast all over, sent ratting down the slope to find a home. I love the upper slopes, and we are as high at that level, as the insanely precarious terraces uncovered by the fire, just below the peak of Picota. Before a large lunch, we walked to the golden mina, which is still inaccessible, and discovered at the end of the valley about twelve terraces with walls, and a small animal house in the middle, which must have been sheep pens (or perhaps for cows, or goats). Fábio has gone to Sr Fernando's garage to pick up the car this afternoon. I spent the time laying grey cement bricks to secure the new lower irrigation pipe, and have begun to create a 'cold frame' with grey cement bricks at the end of the lower irrigation pipe. This can be planted in March with tomatoes, peppers, and piri piri plants, hopefully to plant out next May, when I return.​

Tuesday 15th November 2017

It's going to be 22 degrees today! After a bit of organisation, priorities have been identified, and yesterday we cleared the front to of Cassaca, including trying out the new scaffolding, which is much higher than we thought. I pumped across 1000 litres of water into the tank by the verandah, and that was also a good opportunity to ensure everything electrical was charged. We also have a new pipe now connecting the verandah roof downpipe to the pumping tank half way up the steps between Cassaca and Cortelha. If I can finally today connect the mina pipe to Mario's tank, we should have made great progress on solving any water issues, especially if the dry weather continues way into next year. ​

Thursday 16th November 2017

This morning the start was fairly early, as we drove to Arganil market, first calling in to the insurance office in Côja, as we realised the insurance was overdue, and needed paying. Much is as it always seems to have been at the market, we bough some tomatoes from Dona Amelia, a bay tree from the people that sold us the olives. We decided to return via the mountain road through Torrezelos, and saw all the devestation of the fire, with entire mountain sides turned to desert, and huge trees blackened into charcoal. This afternoon we have pressed ahead with planting, as I want to get that finished before I leave. All this was made possible, because yesterday we decided to leave the temporary repair made on the animal house roof, and protect the dry wood inside from any possible roof failure, with the original corrugated iron sheet we found that had blown off the roof. That left us chance in the afternoon to press ahead, and finish enough of the irrigation on the growing beds, to allow planting to take place today. ​

Friday 17th November 2017

That's it! My stay here at the quinta has almost come to an end, tomorrow we travel to Lisbon. Today I got up early, and we have finished the majority of the planting on Cortelha growing terraces, with the more complicated planting completed, and just broad beans left to plant on some of the beds, which Fabio will do whilst I am away. Time now to cast off these dirty quinta clothes, to shower, pack our bags, put on city clothes, and head down the mountain. Time to leave the wilderness behind, and all the pleasure and happiness we have had creating a home here in these wild mountains. Time to enjoy the city. I have had the most fun here during this visit, perhaps because we have somehow managed to overcome so many obstacles, manged to put things in order after the devastation of the forest fire. We have got better plans for how to develop things in the future, and things seem to be progressing quickly, with not many parts of the quintas this time having had some work done on them.Tchauzinho! ​

Sunday 19th November 2017

The final two days we have spent here in Lisboa has been a wonderful time. The weather here has been sunny and warm, like summer. We had lunch at the miradouro (viewpoint) opposite the Pensao Londres, the hotel we stayed at when we arrived in Portugal. After dropping off our bags we walked from the hotel through comercio to Alfama and the castle, which was closed due to strike action. Lisboa is a wondeful city for just walking, and we found our way through Martim Moniz to the Sao Domingos church, but decided not to go in, as we have had enough of fire for the moment. Fabio had the idea that we would find a better place to eat out of the touristic centre, so we took the metro to Saldanha, which is a long broad avenue, and found the 'Pastelaria e Restaurante Versailles', which was as the name suggests, highly decorated in a very Portuguese way. The food was good, and we took the metro to Rato, and found our way back to the hotel.Today has been a glorious day. After the hotel breakfast, we had a leisurely morning preparing accounts and things before travel, then walked again to the castle. This time it was open, but the queue was way too long, and the area far too full of tourists, so we headed on to Graca, and then to the Sao Vincente monastery. This is a fabulous place to visit in Lisboa. The church itself was closed, but is open for music concerts. The monastery has a museum, lots of azulejos, cloistered courtyards, the mausoleum of the Braganza family, and is on an ancient site founded by the first king of Portugal after the expulsion of the Moors. There is a fine view from the roof, which has two highly decorated towers which are visible from many parts of the city. For a late lunch we found the Tunel de Alfama restaurante, which was very much a restaurant for the Portuguese, and the best place we have eaten here. Generous portions of good food and wine, at a good price. The overwhelming feeling I have here in Lisboa, and I have had this feeling from the first time I visited the city over 10 years ago, is that I very much feel at home here, much more at home than anywhere else really. I think it is the environment I need, to spend time on my own here immersed in the language and the culture, to learn more Portuguese, and the Portuguese way of life. It is not just the good weather, which has been just like an English summer, but all the things a capital city has to offer (like today's visit to the Sao Vicente monastery), There is also the beach with Costa da Caparica a short boat and bus ride away. But most of all it is some strange sense of destiny that I feel, that in life I was meant to find my way here, to spend a lot of time in Lisboa. I am not sure what I am going to do with that feeling.​