Peppers are a tender, warm-season crop. They resist most pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet or hot, and a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. For this page, we will focus on sweet bell peppers.

Planting

Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.

The temperature must be at least 70 degrees F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.

Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald, and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.

Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.

A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost in your garden soil.

After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)

Soil should be at least 65 degrees F, peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic.

Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. They give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.

Care

Soil should be well-drained, but maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering.

Water one to two inches per week, but remember peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.

Fertilize after the first fruit set.

Weed carefully around plants.

If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers.

For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.

Pests

Blossom End Rot appears as a soft, sunken area which turns darker in color.

Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60F and above 90F.

Too much nitrogen will reduce fruit from setting.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size.

The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their Vitamin C content.

Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant for the least damage.

Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.

Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task. Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140 degrees F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.

Recommended Varieties

Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!

Green to Red: ‘Lady Bell’, 'Gypsy,' ‘Bell Boy,’ 'Lipstick'

Yellow: 'Golden California Wonder'

Recipes

Wit & Wisdom

The popular green and red bell peppers that we see in supermarkets are actually the same thing; the red peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, changing color and also gaining a higher content of Vitamin C.

By Mary Martinsen on July 31

Pepper blossoms are sensitive to temperature fluctuations. It is difficult for them to set fruit if the night temps are below 58 degrees or the daytime temps rise above 85 degrees. The blossoms will fall off before they can be pollinated. If that is not the case in your area, it may be due to a lack of bees or other pollinators.

By Leslynn on July 13

Sweet Peppers grown indoors...I used a egg carton style starter kit that you generally buy for kids to start my plants...grown directly from fresh seeds....can I plant them in pots and grow them indoors if they have sufficient sunlight...they are about an inch or so high at present...

Hi, Leslynn: You can, but this is one of those things that is often more easily said than done. Even what might appear to be sufficient sunlight to us might not be enough for the peppers, which really do require a lot. They shouldn't be transplanted until at least two sets of leaves have fully developed. They need adequate space. They need never to go drier than slightly damp. And they may need help with hand pollination. Other than these requirements, not a prob! Good luck! And do let us know how you make out!

By MichelleLavelle on July 4

Jerri, still early in the season here, so I would safely assume yes. My peppers produce the most mid-summer through the end of summer. If you like red (sweeter) peppers, try leaving them on the plant a little longer until they turn red.

By MassDave

Does pruning the flowers on young pepper plants encourage them to grow faster or taller? I have some bell pepper plants that started producing fruits when the plants were only 10 inches tall. I was concerned the plants would be stunted and not sturdy enough to bear full-sized peppers, so I pruned the young fruits and a number of the flower buds until the plant grew larger. Does this make any difference?

Some gardeners do prune certain stems and flowers/fruit at this stage (about 10 to 12 inches tall). Overall, it may help with the sturdiness of the plant, creating a thicker main stem, and may produce more side shoots. It is best to prune before the flowers actually form fruit. Sometimes pruning at this early stage might encourage more fruiting, or result in fewer but larger fruit.

By Wilson Ekhomogiazin

By Nicole Pritchard

This is my first time planting muskmelons and bell peppers. I planted them all from seeds. The melons already have flowers on them but my peppers were late to start blooming. Once they did, I planted them. That was about 2 months ago. Right now they are only a few inches tall. I haven't seen any flowers either. Is this normal? I'm not sure how long its typically supposed to take.

By Lindsay

I planted 3 green bell pepper plants. One is planted where my tomatoes were, and two where my peanuts were. The one where the tomatoes were is starting to produce peppers now. The ones where the peanuts were are slightly yellow, the growth seems stunted, and they just don't look very good. Is there something that the peanut plant gives off that's not good for the pepper plant? And is it ok to plant pepper plants in the same spot every year? I've heard rotating is better. Thank you.

Hi Lindsay,
We don't have any information or experience about growing peppers and peanuts in the same spot. We suggest that you move your peppers to a different spot in the garden to see if they will do better. It is a good practice to rotate your crops every year.

By anon name

Botanically speaking, pepper flowers are "perfect," meaning that both male and female parts are in the same flower. Therefore, each flower can self-pollinate (however, pepper flowers may also cross-pollinate).

There is misinformation going around the internet that male bell peppers have 3 lobes and female bell peppers have 4 lobes--this is not true. The fruit comes from perfect ("all in one") flowers.

By Hether

I planted my sweet bell peppers and hot peppers in the beds i used for potatoes last year. I now have about 5 potato plants coming up in between my pepper plants. Some very close to the pepper plants. I'm going to have to move them?

By Loveline Ike

I want to establish a vegetable garden/farm, please I need good seeds of tomato, pepper, bell pepper, garden egg,carrot, onions,cucumber,peas, garbage, lettuces, green pepper,green beans, grape, berries,cauliflower, etc, so how do i get them to buy in Nigerian?

By A. Gail

By Josh Teague

I have 4 bell pepper plants that I planted in a hanging basket. One of the plants is already flowering but once the flower is done blooming the small stem piece turns yellow and falls off. I maintain healthy water levels and have given proper fertilizer. The leaves on the plants are starting to turn yellowish and curl inwards. My ? Is what do I need to do to insure the peppers grow? And how much light should the plants be getting? My plants get sunlight most of the day and I live in Kansas City MO.

Flower drop, leaf curling, and yellowing may be caused by several things. Since water levels and fertilizer are good, and it doesn't seem that your area is getting high heat (over 90F) or really cold nights, then best guess would be the tarnished plant bug, which sucks juices from plant buds and can lead to blossom drop. Thrips or aphids might also be culprits. As to diseases, check for wilts and viruses, especially verticillium wilt.

By Tomika

First time growing.

I planted my tomato, jalepeno and then bells a week later both other plants are sprouting well but not one sign of the bells growing. I used same soil and large pot in sun. There has been a few cold nights about 50 degrees today a high of 65. Should I bring them in or put in my out side green house it gets warm and is warm in the morning.

Depending on where you live, it is a little too cold now to grow peppers outdoors (they like warmth). Putting them in the greenhouse is a good idea. Bring them back outside when overnight and morning temperatures are not quite so chilly.

By Joan R.

PLANTING BELL PEPPERS FROM SEEDS

I've read all of the questions and comments on this page and see that the bell peppers like warm climates. In Greensboro,NC the weather fluctuates from 60 deg. to 40, Is it possible to use warm water on the seeds and then cover them in black plastic during the warmest part of the day and then again when the temperatures drop?

By johnnyrb25det

Hi Joan,

I live right below you in Mebane NC. I started my bell pepper seeds inside about a month ago. I have moved them outside completely now and they are growing just fine. Out of one pack of seeds started this way I have about 20 seedlings. Most if not all have 5+ leaves already and are 3-5 inches tall. Starting the seeds inside would be your best route. Then once they have 3-4 leaves transplant them as per the description noted here.

Hi, Joan, The temperature of the water should not be extreme at any time; warm water is not going to keep the seeds warm. The black plastic mentioned above is laid on bare ground to warm it; it is not placed on seeds. You'll have better results keeping the seed containers inside until the plants sprout. In fact, see this page for more advice on starting seeds: http://www.almanac.com/content/starting-seeds-indoors
We hope this helps.

By Cadey Stuart

Bell pepper plants are annuals: They produce through one growing season and then die. However, they may produce many peppers through that growing season, and not all at once, so it may seem like they keep producing. And they do—but only in one growing season. They will not survive or come back for next growing season. You need to start with new plants or seeds every year. Got it?

By Jenn 6

This is going to be the second year(which is miraculous considering how cold our home gets through the winter) I'll be able to bring the same bell pepper plants back outside.
How many years can I continue to expect production out of them?
Thank you, and have a great night!

You also might be interested in this page that discusses the wild ancestor of the modern bell pepper. There, it says that it (Capsicum annuum) in its native habitat starts out as herbaceous but does become woody and shrub-like. A short-lived perennial, it usually lasts about 3 to 4 years.

If you are concerned about soil contaminants, you might want to have a soil test done beforehand. Your county's Cooperative Extension may be able to give you some names of soil testing labs that test for contaminants. If your home has been built before 1978, and was painted, it may be that it was with lead paint. In this case, we'd suggest having your soil tested, not planting edibles near the foundation, and using a raised bed further out in the yard.
For more information, you might see:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/soil-contamination-testing-22559.html
Gardening guidelines for soil with lead:
http://www.douglascountyhealth.com/healthy-children/lead-poisoning-prevention/soil-lead-facts

By Darlene LeBouef

Depending on where you live, it is a little too cold now to grow peppers outdoors (they like warmth). In general, mini sweet bell peppers can grow in a 5-gallon pot, about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. One plant per pot. You can certainly grow them in a greenhouse. If you do not have a greenhouse, but have a location that will be about 70F to 80F or so in temperature consistently, then you can grow them indoors over winter. They will need about 14 to 16 hours of daylight or fluorescent grow lights (1 cool bulb type, 1 warm) per day. Set the plant lights about 4 to 6 inches above the plants. You will need to hand pollinate the flowers to encourage fruiting. Keep up with the watering. Good luck!

By Jeus-Mar Roble

By Petra Prgomelja

I would like to overwinter my yellow bell peppers, but don't have enough space or light in the house. So I bought a portable Greenhouse (56 x 56 x 77 inches). The peppers are in air pruning pots and I live in zone 8b.
Will they make it alright through the winter in there as is, or do I need to provide a heat source? How low can the temperature get, before it hurts them?
If I need to heat the greenhouse, what would you suggest as heat source that is not too expensive?

It depends on how cold it gets in the winter. You may be OK with a couple of seedling heat mats under the pots or you can get a couple of heating lamps and turn them on before a cold front approaches. A small space heater with a fan will also work.

By charlie Howerter

For 2 years I have planted green peppers in the spring with my other plants and I don't harvest any peppers until mid-September.The plants are healthy and leafy but flowers don't appear until august , what can i change to harvest them in the summer.

By keith pellegrin

Use miracle grow potting soil if u havnt already. It will make your flowers blume earlier and faster. While at the same time u will have a healthier plant that will produce flowers sumtimes within a week or two uwill have small peppers come out wen the accuall flower falls off. Just like the regular process but a lil faster. Ive harvested a numbrr of really greally great peppers starting in august an im still pulling off more and more

By Haley

Peppers like warm soil, above 65F. Cold soil may slow the flowering process. You might try choosing an early-maturing variety, and placing black plastic over the soil a week or two before planting (see above for recommended planting times) and leaving it there after sowing seeds or transplanting. The black plastic will help to keep the soil warm. In colder climates, start the seeds indoors. Hope this helps!

By Emily A Boothby

I've been planting green and red peppers. I am wondering how late they can stay outside and cover up at night. I live in Maine. Just need some guideline. I have a tons of green peppers, but need to grow a little bit more and new buds coming.

Peppers love warm soil and sun. They are not going to be growing much more when the temps. drop. If you cover the plants at night you can keep them in the garden for another few weeks. If you have room you can dig a few plants to bring indoors. Plant them in containers and place them in a sunny window.

By Aaaronj

I have tried to find info on peppers in colorado that are almost ready for harvest- but no quite. We have an early frost/freeze(32) and snow headed in. Do I need to harvest or can I leave them on the plant. Most websites talk about early spring damage.
I also have cucumbers, corn, squash, and all the usual backyard vegetables.

By Karen Wingo

I've asked partially about this before. I have one sweet pepper plant where the peppers started out green, then turned black...now they're turning green again. I've left them on the plant hoping they would turn yellow, orange or red. Is this normal for them to go black and then back to green?

By Nancy Hillmer

Are there any sweet pepper varieties that might do better with climate change? I have grown Califirnia Goldens and a red easily up until the last two seasons in Piedmont NC where the temperatures are no longer favorable.

By antoinetterys

My dog got into the garden and the stem broke. It did not break all the way but it is severely cracked near the base of the plant. The plant already had a lot of vegetables and flowers growing on it. I added a pot to the side to help it stand and covered the crack with dirt. Is there a chance that the plant will survive or is it pretty much done for.

Only time will tell. If the injury left some of the vascular system intact, so that the plant juices and nutrients can still flow between the roots, stem, leaves, and fruit, then there might be a chance it will muddle through to the end of the season. But, the plant is now more susceptible to disease and insects, and may possibly go into shock. Providing support is good--do anything else that you can to coddle the plant so that it is under the least stress possible. Good luck!

By Karen Wingo

I have four or five organic red, yellow and orange sweet pepper plants. On only one plant, all the small peppers have black around the part of the plant closest to the place where the pepper began...and as they grow, they are turning black. Is this a disease and, if so, do I need to pull it up so my other pepper plants won't get it?

Do you mean the stem end or the bottom of the pepper? Black areas starting at the bottom of the pepper might be due to blossom end rot. This is caused by a calcium deficiency which can show up in dry weather or uneven watering. It might also happen if there is root damage, a lot of salts in the soil, or lots of nitrogen. In this case, you don't need to worry about other plants getting the disease, since it is a cultural problem. Mulch to maintain moisture, and water consistently. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

If the black area is at the stem end, it might be bacterial soft rot. This is caused by bacteria that causes watersoaked areas on the fruit, which rots. Leaves will wilt. Discard any affected fruit, and give your plants plenty of spacing so that they have good air circulation; keep up with pests; and mulch to keep the bacteria in the soil from splashing onto plants.

Or, perhaps the variety was mislabelled and it is actually a black sweet pepper? In which case it is just part of the ripening process.

By Karen Wingo

It's right around the stem area of each pepper on this plant. It's brownish black, looks like some kind of accumulation of material and as soon as the peppers start growing about 3/4 of an inch, they start having these dark stripes in them. I pulled one off and cut it open but didn't see anything inside except seeds.

Hmm. Stripes can sometimes mean a virus (unless it is a natural feature of the fruit), especially if there are other signs, such as curling, mottled, or yellowing leaves; or misshapen fruit.

We'd suggest that you take a sample of the fruit and any other affected plant part to your local Cooperative Extension agent, or to a horticulturist at a local garden nursery. They might be able to identify the problem. For your Cooperative Extension contact information, see:

By Phil and M

Hi, we're in Montreal, first time gardeners, and we planted three kinds of tomatoes, cucumbers, Anaheim peppers, Cubanelle peppers, leek, and red bell pepper; all were purchased as young plants and transplanted into the same garden on the same day (late May). Everything has worked great, notably due to advice on this site, with the exception of the leek plant (which appears to have just suddenly withered and died) and all five red bell pepper plants, which appear to be thriving but have yet to bear a single fruit, now early August. I understand from the comments here that the culprit here is usually non-optimal temperature, but I find it strange that all the other plants are producing extremely plentiful fruit. Any theories? Thank you!

Hot peppers can tolerate heat better than bells. Perhaps at the time of flowering, it was too hot for sufficient pollination for the bells, but the hot peppers came through? (That wouldn't explain the Cubanelles, though.) Too much nitrogen can also cause lack of flowering/fruiting, but the other plants seem to be OK. Are all plants getting the same amount of soil nutrients, sunlight, water, etc? If not, perhaps the area where the bells are is different enough to cause a problem.

By Ebeth78

This is the 2nd year I have purchased red bell pepper plants from the nursery, planted them in my garden, and they grow several green peppers that never turn red. The green peppers have been on the plant at least a month and never turn. What am I doing wrong?

Hi, Elizabeth: Well, it's not really a "wrong," but what you're not doing enough of is being patient. They will turn color eventually. Sometimes, once you start to see a little color, you can speed up the final ripening by putting them in a paper bag with a ripe tomato. The ethylene gas it emits will help things along.

On one pepper plant, you may get 1 or 2 peppers to form or you may 6 to 8. It depends on the pepper variety and your garden/weather conditions. If you pick the pepper before it's fully mature, you will spark your plant into producing more peppers because the plant wants its "babies" to succeed, though many gardeners say the pepper tastes better if it's fully mature. One idea is to harvest early on some plants and let others mature. Try this experiment and see what works for you!

By Matt Dion

Most likely, the peppers are suffering from blossom end rot, which can spread to any area of the fruit and is not always on the "ends". Provide a good mulch to prevent moisture evaporation, and shade your plants during the hottest hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.

By bobi43

Hi i planted my peppers almost 2 month ago from a farmer they were abit grown not too high not too low height, but since i planted them it barely changed at all! just got abit higher and nothing other then that, just nothing, meanwhile the watermelon plants are taking over all the area.

also there is some wierd black spots around leaf branch area if it means anything.

my garden is in very sunny area long very hot sunny days i used to water them 3 times a day when i started now i do 1 time a day also because its alittle bit less time with sun.

By Ken Hendricks

I am new to gardening, so I started small with some green peppers. How many peppers does a plant usually yield? I have a plant that only has 1 and the other has 2. Is this all I will get this season or should I expect more? Thank you for your time?

Hi Ken, We have answered your question a few times below so you're not alone. The number of fruits per plant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 5 to 8 fruit per plant. However, do not be surprised if you get one or two. Peppers are sensitive to temperature and need consistent moisture, especially during dry periods. Read more below; there are a lot of common Q&As and good learning as a beginner gardener. Good luck!

By Lois Arkwright

Hi!

I live in Montreal, Quebec. My green peppers are growing great but something is eating the baby fruit. There's a hole, then hole has black around it. Would basil plants or marigolds stop bugs? Should I do some kinds of garlic, pepper, onion spray, liquid dishsoap and water mix?

Holes in peppers could be anything from worms to flee beetles to weevils. However, pest holes are not usually surrounded by black. Bacterial spot is a disease that causes small black spots; the spots are lesions, not holes. Most outbreaks are tied to the original seed or transplant which was infected. If this is the case, there is little you can do except buy sterile seed and avoid replanting in this area next year. Also, overhead irrigation and splashing of water on the plant can spread infection. (Watering should happen at base of plant and never overhead.) This is a difficult disease to control. There are sprays that can be used at an early stage. We would suggest you bring a sample to your local cooperative extension office or garden nursery to get a confirmed diagnosis.

By Clobsmom

My peppers are about fist sized on plants about 12-18" tall. I cut one pepper off to put in a salad, but when I tasted the pepper it was very bitter and just over-all yucky. Is this normal? Are they just not ready to be picked?

By AshPoke

I live in Michigan and I started my first garden this May. I bought a California Wonder bell pepper plant and transplanted it into the garden. It had a little pepper bud with a bit of the flower around it when I purchased it. In that same place (the lower third of the pepper) there is a black patch. The pepper itself is growing just fine. However, the plant has not developed any more flowers or little peppers. Can you please tell me what is wrong and if it is fixable? THANKS!!

By Holden

It will depend on the variety. Check the name on the plant tag or seed packet. Depending on the type, and growing conditions, the fruits can range from between 1.5 and 7 inches long. Plant heights can range from 6 inches to 5 feet tall, again depending on the type and your local growing conditions. 'Big Bertha', for example, can grow up to 5 feet tall and bear fruit that is up to 7 inches long and 4 inches wide. 'Red Mini Bell', on the other hand, grows about 16 inches tall and bears fruit just 1.5 inches long and wide. A standard type, such as 'Sweet California Wonder', grows up to 2 feet tall and bears fruit about 4 inches long by 3.5 inches wide.

By alexalvarez

I love planting plants that give you food instead of just looking at flowers. But I am just 16 years old and I all ready have grown and bought almost the whole store full of fruits and vegetables in my gardens. Like bell peppers, Cherry trees, Fig trees, Apple trees, Peach trees, avocados, pineapples, watermelons, canolops, plus iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, Zucchini, beets, and pinto beans, carrots, potatoes, Sweet potatos. But most have trouble growing because of temperature changes of hot and cold weather. 95high and 20 degrees low. With weather of thunderstorms high winds mostly in the summer time. Winter snow storms possible sometimes not somestimes with slow lightning with freezing high winds.

By Mini

Hi, I sowed some pepper seeds in may. It is almost one month. The seeds sprouted but theya re not growing... The true leaves did not emerged till now. Can anyone help me what to do? May be the seeds are not good? If I sow some seeds now, can I get harvest in september or october?
And also my spinach and cilantro also growing very slow. I think these leafy veggies are fast growing, but They are also not growing fast.
Thanks.

Depending on what weather you have had, it could be that cold temperatures are delaying sprouting, since pepper seeds like a warm soil temperature to germinate. Keep the soil moist (not soggy) to help penetrate the hard seed coat and help the seed germinate. The variety of pepper also affects how fast it will germinate: some hot peppers can take almost a month.

Cold temperatures can also slow plant growth (Look through the questions/answers below for similar problems.) If temperatures are still cool, you might place row covers over the plants to help keep them warm at night. Black plastic mulch helps to keep the soil warm.

As to whether sowing seeds now will give the plants enough time to produce, check this page and put in your zip code to determine best times for your area:
http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/
In some areas, sowing now through end of June should be fine for a Setember/October harvest.

By Cheryl Burq

I live in Eastern WA. My Red Pepper plants look great, very dark green leaves, but are only about 10 inches tall. They've started producing lots of fruit. I planted them in early May and kept them under cover to keep them warm. My question is...should I pick the fruit and allow the plants to get taller since it's still early in the season?

It seems that several gardeners are having the same problem (see questions/answer below), probably because of cooler temperatures (or the temperature fluctuations). You might want to pick the fruit and allow the plants to get taller; side dress the area with a bit of balanced fertilizer to encourage more plant growth.

By redheadarn

I have a several red bell plants and a yellow bell plant. Each of the red bells are sharing a container with a tomato plant the container they're in is 24" in diameter). 3 of the 4 bell plants (2 of the red and the 1 yellow) have fruit, 1 each on the red and 3 on the yellow. However, the 2 red bells aren't very big (no where near the size of the yellow bell plant) The yellow bell plant only has the 3 fruit but has lots of buds that haven't opened for several weeks. The fruit on the yellow bell plant hasn't grown for several weeks either, they are about 3" around and only about 1.5" tall. It seems like the yellow ones are growing bigger around then tall. The 2 red bell plants have like miniature bells growing pretty well. My m-i-l has suggested that I cut the top off the 2 red bell plants, fruit and all. I'm not sure what to do about any of it at this point. Should I transplant the bells to their own container? Should I cut the top off? I'm lost...

When a pepper plant starts producing fruit before it has reached full growth, it sometimes helps to remove the tiny peppers and side dress the area with a bit of balanced fertilizer to encourage more plant growth. Cool temperatures during flowering may also affect pollination (the pollinators aren't out as much), resulting in tiny, misshapen fruit.

By jon jone

I planted my peppers in early may and I live in central Michigan. They seem to be stunted maybe due to cold weather. They are about two inches tall but don't want to grow bigger. Will they be okay now that it is hot out or should I give up on them?

By AnneS

I planted my peppers in late April, probably before the ground temp was ready. They've been in the ground just around a month. They have not grown much in that time frame. They have, however started producing flowers and mini peppers. Will the plants ever recover from the cold air cold ground temp and begin to grow, or should I replant?
Thank you

They might perk up when temperatures get warmer, although there is a possibility that they will remain stunted. In the meantime, if your area is still cool, you might place row covers over the plants to help keep them warm at night. Black plastic mulch helps to keep the soil warm. When a pepper plant starts producing fruit before it has reached full growth, it sometimes helps to remove the tiny peppers and side dress the area with a bit of balanced fertilizer to encourage more plant growth. Cool temperatures during flowering may also affect pollination (the pollinators aren't out as much), resulting in tiny, misshapen fruit.

By heppyedda

This could be any number of things -- it's good that you're on top of it! Make sure that it is getting enough sun. Make sure that it is getting enough water, but not too much! Water regularly, but only when the top surface starts to dry out to a depth of an inch or two. It could be a nutrient deficiency; try a little bit of some well-balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer. It could be pests: Do an inspection and use some eco-friendly pesticide if necessary. So, your order of action here should be Pests, Water, Sun, Nutrients -- in successive but quick order!

By Michelle Styles

I planted California wonder bell peppers. I have never grown any bells but I thought I would give it a try. Can they be planted in a pot? Will this work or should I just plant them outside. Short on space .

By Amyern

We had unexpectedly low temperatures last night, down in the low 40s. I'm new to gardening and hadn't thought ahead regarding the peppers, because we've had such warm weather for the past couple of weeks––I planted them outside three days ago. Is there any hope for them yet?! Or do such low temps mean they're already a lost cause?

By Doug justdoug

Okay this has sorta been addressed, but sorta not. I am curious about this particular part of the instructions: "Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant." So I put the 3 seeds together in one small hole. They sprouted and I pulled out the weakest one, now I have 2 seedlings RIGHT next to eachother, like, 1/3" apart. So is this the correct way to do it per the quoted part of the directions or am I gonna have a problem having these 2 plants this close together?

Our advice would be to thin just to one seedling (pinch one off, rather than pull it out) because these are so close together and might be competing too intensely. When you plant the peppers in the garden, you could place another plant about 3 inches away; this might help with the sunscald and the plants may support each other as they grow further. If you don't have a problem with sunscald, then regular spacing might be best.

By William Swan

Hi William,
If you already have white flies on your peppers try predator insects, such as parasitic wasps and ladybugs. Some folks recommend putting yellow sticky tape around the garden and others have used insecticidal soap and oil sprays with some luck.

By Susan M Jones

Hi. I am not a gardener but a person who enjoys the beauty of watching things grow and if I am blessed with veggies then I am quite pleased. In April I tossed all of the seeds from a red pepper in to a pot of potting soil/dirt mixed. The seeds had been soaked in water for about two months. I placed the pot outside on a table and I water it every morning. I now have numerous little plants growing happily in this pot. Some are almost an inch tall. What is the best thing to do with them at this point and will they grow peppers before winter?

Most store bought peppers come from hybrid plants and seeds collected from them don't grow as well as seeds planted from a seed package. But, you already have seedlings growing so you can transplant them into bigger pots when they are about 2 to 3 inches tall and see what happens. The seedlings will not grow well if they are crowded.
Good luck!

By Mr Cater

By LizaKTchr

Hi! I really don't know what I'm doing, but I love bell peppers! I put some bell pepper seeds from a store-bought bell pepper in a moist paper towel in a baggie. And they've actually sprouted (small, less than an inch of thin white string sprouted out of the seed). Do I bury the whole thing in soil? Should some of it be sticking up? Thank you! (Columbus, OH)

I'm new to growing bell peppers. I just transplanted them into a container outside but after reading some of the comments I'm wondering if I should repot them with new soil. I used dolomite (garden lime) like I did with my other plants. The comments say light soil...should I change? Thank you

By jose eduardo franco

I've been gardening a long time n I've learned that ﻿the dirt you use is very important. If transplanting into pots make sure to use a potting mix and when planting sweet peppers I always put a few wooden matches in ﻿the hole before ﻿the plant ﻿the peppers love ﻿the sulfur. Good luck

I hand dug around the roots and put some potting soil in as well as just beneath the surface. Hopefully this will be enough. My toddler is not gentle with my veggies. I'm almost afraid to completely re-pot. Thank you!

Always check your soil's pH (acidity/alkalinity) before introducing additives. Acidic, or sour, soil has a pH lower than 7.0 and is amended with finely ground limestone. Ideally, lime is added to soil several months before planting.
Aklaline, or sweet soil, has a pH above 7.0 and is amended by adding ground sulphur—again, several months before planting.
Bell peppers prefer well draining, composted soil that is slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
Too much lime can be harmful to peppers. Perhaps you want to check the soil's pH. Kits for doing so are available at almost any garden or home store for a couple dollars.

By Mr Cater

By Sam delapena

I planted bell peppers in small pots early in march, they got about an inch tall and seem to have stopped growing does any one know why this could be happening? I live in the central valley of California so the weather is plenty warm at this time of year.

By jose eduardo franco

Pepper seeds germinate best at temps between 85°F and 90°F, and seedlings develop well at 75°F during the day and no less than 65°F (some say 60°F) at night. They slow down during cool periods. Did anything change in your temp conditions?
If they come back to life, beware of transplant shock: reduce the air temp and amount of water and increase the air circulation around them before bringing them outside.

By Anonymous

Hello,
I’m new at this so help would be much appreciated. I live in Florida and I have green peppers growing on my porch. I have 4-5 big peppers growing and a lot of smaller ones coming in; it’s toward the end of April at this point. I had to throw 3 of my smaller pepper out because they had holes in them… it looked like a bug had eaten through but I don’t see any when I check the plants! I don’t want to throw all of them out if they are getting eaten! Please help! And thank you.

Peppers have many fans that are not humans.
Corn earworm (shows up where corn is grown, probably not your area), fall armyworm (strikes in autumn, as the name suggests), pepper maggot (is about the size of a housefly; here's a candidate) and pepper weevil larva (these are tiny and found in sub-tropical areas, also a contender) are among the insects that bore into the fruit. There are others.
Management on a few pots (vs a field or bed) usually involve using crop rotation methods (or changing pot soil from year to year) and using trays or saucers under the pots to deny some pests entry from the bottom. Use a slow-release fertilizer and if using composted material, be sure that it reached a temperture high enough to kill pest organisms.
See the next entry for more advice.

By Bama Girl 68

I live in Alabama and I built a raised bed this year for just my pepper plants. I have a wide range of different varieties. When I built my bed, I laid a weed barrier down, added several inches of sand, than filled my bed with potting soil, top soil, compost, than tilled together. Planted my plants, and added crushed egg shells around each plant, and finished with a layer of mulch. In the south, during the month of April, we get alot of rain, and this year we have had temperatures to dip down into the 30's and 40's. I have had to cover my bed a couple of times. I've noticed on some of my plants, they are starting to turn a little yellowish. Is this due to too much rain, and cooler temperatures? Should I just give them time, or is there something that I need to do?

Peppers do like warmth and the temperatures you've been experiencing are quite cold for these plants, so this combined with a lot of rain could potentially be the cause of the yellowing. I would expect to see wilting too though. It might be a good idea to cover the bed at night to provide a little extra warmth. It does sound more like a nutrient deficiency to me though - without seeing the plants it's difficult to say what, but if you think this could be a possibility I would recommend watering in a balanced organic liquid feed (make it fairly weak) and do this once a week until you see signs of improvement.
If, despite your best efforts, the cool to cold temps have done in your peppers, then you should get new seedlings, harden them off before planting (see above answer for ideas on that), and try again.

By Marc33

I have a container garden on my porch and I grew a bunch of different peppers (hot and sweet), eggplants, and some squash in about a 25 foot by 7 foot space. Nothing seemed to have any cross pollination issues, but I kept seeds from most of the peppers, and I recently heard that if I grow these seeds, I might have cross pollination issues. What kinds of issues might arise if I use these seeds? Thanks!

Correct. You won't have issues with the crops this season, but if you save these seeds and replant, you will get attributes of both parents. For example, you may find a sweet pepper has spicy notes. Or, a fruit won't taste very good. The plants lose their unique characteristics.

By Richard babcock

See our indoor planting tips on this page. Are your seedling too crowded? Peppers need warmth. Make sure the temp. doesn't drop below 65 degrees. Sometimes a small fan that circulates the air will help.

Hi Val, No worries. Pepper flowers self pollinate for the most part. Once pepper will not change the fruit characteristics of the other pepper.
Now, if you're saving the seeds from the fruit to plant next year, there could be cross-pollination issues. However, it won't affect this year's crops.

By ray crannell

HI
I STARTED BURPEE BELL PEPPERS AND THEY HAVE JUST CAME UP. HOW DO I KEEP THEM FROM GETTING SPINDLEY? OR WILL THEY GROW SLOW I HAVE THEM NEXT TO A SOUTHWEST WINDOW FOR LIGHT.NOT A LOT OF SUN ON THE PLANTS

By WV Cycling

As you see the pepper seeds come up, immediately get them in bright light: a south-facing window or, if this is not bright enough, under grow lights. Rigging up a couple of Cool White bulbs might do it.
Also, spindly growth can come from poor air circulation so don't crowd your plants and make sure that they can get light from all possible angles.
Finally, do not start seeds too early. See our planting dates chart for your zip code: www.almanac.com/plantingtable

By MallySunshine

Hi there!
I love your site and the information you provide.

I recently started some orange bell pepper seeds in a 'greenhouse'. A week after, the seeds are strong so I transplanted them to bigger pots for their roots to grow longer. Many of the seedlings are still small but are strong.
I live in southern Texas, and I'm wondering, how long could I keep the baby plants in direct sunlight? I tried bell peppers last year, I lost them (wilted and whithered) because I kept them in the greenhouse pot too long. I realize they had too much moisture after that very last day. I want to keep this year's plants strong and healthy! Thank you very, very much.

Usually you can transplant your seedlings into the garden after about 8 weeks indoors. Peppers love sunlight, just be careful that it doesn't get too hot on the windowsill. Before you transplant the seedlings you may want to harden them off by putting them outside during the day and bringing them inside during the night.

We're not clear. Are they still in pots or are peppers now in the ground? Peppers will suffer slow growth and not thrive if it's too cool. Our best guess is that the temps are too cool.
You can start them indoors 6 to 8 weeks ahead, and transplant them outdoors when soil has been thoroughly warmed in the spring.

By Stephanie Cook

I planted various pepper seeds in a Burpee self-watering container with peat pellets. They have been in there for a week and we are noticing mildew growing in almost every cup. There are 72 cups with 2 seeds to each cup. Can you tell me how to get rid of the mildew or is this typical of this kind of seed starting container?

By Terra Vista

Just put a fan on them or turn up ceiling fan. I had this same problem on my hydro clay pellets. Plants like oxygen so you can spray treat areas if mold with hydrogen peroxide. Put the fan km them and they'll be fine.

By Shane Stinespring

I also had this problem once, don't recall what it is called, but try placing a fan near your trays to circulate the air. I was informed the mold is caused by the soil being too wet and no/not enough air circulation. I didn't want to waste the time to try and save the plants so I just started over. Good luck.

Our research indicates no good or easy answer to this one. Mold is usually caused by too much moisture or water. Some sources suggest that you should start over again, but before you do that, scrape the mold off if you can and try to dry out the containers. Some sources suggest trying to replant the seeds/seedlings in new material and nurture them the old-fashioned way (not in this type of container). You have quite a potential crop and we wish you the best with it.

By Verane

A friend gave a hot pepper plant, about 5" in height. It had a what looked like one or two peppers beginning to form. I put the pepper in my box garden (1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite). The plant looks great, but the two the beginning peppers are gone. What did I do wrong I live in the Caribbean, so it gets lots of sun, and I water it everyday. thanks for your help.

By amy27

Pepper root are very sensitive you may have disturb the roots it self or may still be in shock which is typically 7 to 14 days i believe good luck oh and i envy that your in Caribbean. as i am in canada and expecting a foot of snow tonight

By Suzanne Lingold

I plan to grow bell peppers commercially through an outdoor hydroponic drip irrigation system. i live in North San Diego County and our night time temperatures average in the 40's through April. Because peppers can be damaged in below 65, do i need to wait to move my plants outdoors until April/May?

By Elaine Horsley

I live in the San Francisco bay area and I have two pepper plants that are still looking beautiful with lots of peppers on them (red bell) that haven't turned yet. It is nearly mid November and things still look great. How late can I leave them and what is the lowest temp they can withstand?

By plane1286

Dumb question, but each season do you start from seeds again or if I keep my plant indoors during the winter months and bring it back outside during the spring/summer months will it produce more fruit?

No dumb questions in gardening! Peppers grow anew each season; they generally take 35 to 45 days to mature from flowering to full color. People do try to keep growing peppers over the winter but in most climates they would need a lot of grow lamps and heat to keep going; usually, the declining amount of sunlight slows them down.

By Ken Sheahan

I have pepper plants growing on my Tower Garden (www.nashville.towergarden.com). They seem to be doing good even though it's late in the season. I live in an apartment with a lot of shade on my balcony. I'm using a grow light to make up for the low sunlight that I get. There are about 5 growing now in differing sizes. None look like they are at full size yet. I'm still getting some that are budding and flowering every day. All in all I'd say that there are close to 30. I'm just curious how long they might go since it's already November 1st.

You should expect to be harvesting your delicious peppers about 65–85 days after transplanting.
You can harvest those peppers before they reach full maturity if you wish; sometimes the flavor is even better.

By Sharn

I have been growing peppers this year and they have been rather small and deformed. I live in Maryland and we had a very wet summer, but is there a nutrient that is missing or what could be causing this deformation?

There are a variety of possible reasons why the peppers are small and deformed. The most common reason is temperature. Peppers are very sensitive to temperatures that are too cold or hot. If the temperatures dip below 60 degrees during fruit set, they can be small and misshapen.

By Bonnie Carlin

Hi!

I had to pick the last of my red peppers just yesterday but many of them have not turned red or are partially red. Is there a way that I can hasten the process? Do I put them in a sunny window or in the dark?
Thank you for your answer in advance!!!

By koechmark

By Jenna Amundson

We just tried planting a variety of bell pepper plants this year. All our plants produced a fair amount of peppers, but before they were mature, they all turned black around the stem. When we cut into them they appeared rotten. What is causing this and how can we prevent this next season?

Hi, Jenna, It sounds as if your peppers had blossom end rot. You probably don't have enough calcium in the soil and when it rains a lot or is too dry (moisture fluctuation), this becomes apparent. And/or you had too much nitrogen in the soil during early fruiting. There's not much you can do now. For next year: Test your soil. Your cooperative extension should have free or low-fee soil tests. Get it to a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. If too low, you may need to amend the soil with lime. Or, if your pH is OK, you may need to add gypsum. Crumbled egg shells are good, too. Also: Avoiding adding fertilizer with nitrogen made from ammonia which ties up calcium. Finally: Water VERY consistently. Veggies need 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water a week while fruiting. Water at the soil level and don't use a sprinkler to avoid water on the fruit or leaves. Consider a timer or drip irrigation to keep the moisture levels even.

By Russell-OKC

I've read where pepper plants can produce for several years. In Oklahoma the winters are very cold so am I out of luck or can I mulch around the base and/cover with plastic? Should I cut it way down above the ground or leave alone? Thanks for such an informative website.

If your winters are cold the best bet is to dig up the pepper plant and plant it in a container that you can keep indoors. Peppers need as much light as possible so keep it close to a window or sometimes articicial light may be needed.

By annie m

I planted my peppers too late so none have changed color which is not a big problem -- I've just enjoyed them green. One or two of my plants had smaller fruit that are covered with small brownish-red bumps. Any idea what they are? Can I still eat these peppers? Thanks for your help!

Cut one open. See any problems or pests inside the bumps? Some peppers just have bumps. Are the bumps soft? If so, it's a form of rot and you could just cut it out. Take a sample to a local nursery for a diagnosis!

By Frank Petro

Have you had any flowers on the plants? It sounds like you have an insect pests or a critter that has nibbled on the stems. Look for signs of insect pests. Depending on where you live it is getting late to grow peppers successfully. They love hot weather and lots of sun.

By Federico

Hello, I want to plant bell peppers and tomatoes, but I live in a verify hot island in the Caribbean, with average temperatures in the 80s... Can I be successful, or Is it useless? What kind of vegetable can I plant? Thanks!

By verena

I think you definitely could be successful. I live on the NC coast and the temps here are in the 80's and UP. I have 2 containers of red bell peppers and have been getting lots of peppers from both. Even now, in September, though the temps here are still in the 80's.

By Caroline Joan Constable

I have just moved to central france and for the 1st time planted 3 bell pepper plants in grow bags and took a gamble. They are great, huge fruit and sweet to taste, will the green ones go red as its now early sept and I
dont want to leave them on and they die off

The green peppers will turn red if you leave them on the plants long enough. You may need to harvest them green as your growing seasons is ending. You can move the grow bags to a more protected area with direct sun to extend the season.

Small or aborted fruit usually happens at this stage because of periods of extreme heat or hot, dry winds, and/or warm nights (above 70°F). Try to cool the peppers down with moist soil, mulch, and shade covers.

First time pepper grower 'red' in Southern Ontario, Canada. My green peppers are starting to turn red now but the red area is soft and not firm like the green portion. Should I harvest and eat them green rather than risk losing my peppers? Whey is the red portion going soft.

By Plumman

I have a very healthy green pepper potted plant that has mega green peppers (25 to 30) that are turning red. They are about the size of a mandarin Xmas orange. How do I tell if they are ripe enough to pick? Or how do I tell if they have seeds inside? Very much appreciate any suggestions you may have. I live near Calgary, Alberta. Thanks much

They're ready! Green peppers can be harvested when they are 3 to 4 inches long, very firm, but still green. OR, let them ripen and they will turn red or another color depending on the cultivar. The less green you see, the sweeter they get. So it depends on your taste. When you harvest, don't pull on the pepper. Cut it off. Congrats on such a wonderful pepper harvest!

By Kristine Maldonado

I have a question. I am new at growing plants I bought hot pepper not sure exactly what kind, but I have peppers growing. They are maybe half an inch at the moment and there is a lot but I also have white flowers coming out and they do not look like they are growing any bigger. Should I cut off the flowers? Thanks

Sometimes blackish streaks are just normal. Fruit may develop a black pigment when immature in response to cool or cold temperature. However, if you see rotting or any bigger issues, you may have a disease or other problem.

By glenda fortune

Has it been too hot to fruit set (above 90 degrees)? Do not remove the leaves; this is how the pepper pulls in the sunlight for growth. Are they getting pollinated with bees? You might try hand pollinating the blooms.

By Kris Whisenhunt

Hello,
I have three bell pepper plants that are all growing pretty well. I have a few good looking peppers growing but I also have a couple of peppers that seem to be dying from the inside out. They get brown mushy areas that get bigger. I'm a pretty novice gardener still and am still learning. Does anyone know why is this happening?

Mushy peppers often means blossom end rot which is due to calcium deficiency and shows up when there are moisture variations due to drought/heavy rain or inconsistent irrigation.At this point, the mushy peppers need to be removed. In the future, avoid blossom end rot by adding eggshells, small amounts of lime, gypsum or bone meal to the soil. See more: http://www.almanac.com/content/blossom-end-rot

Great! Check your packet for the "days to maturity" as a guide to know when they'll be ready to harvest. Harvest when the fruit walls are firm, and the peppers are still in the green or yellow state. If you keep those green peppers on the vine, they'll turn red! It's your preference.

By Anna Schoeneman

I have a single pepper that is bigger then you would find in the store. But it does not appear to be changing colors at all. I mean it is still a deep green pepper though it is at least a softball size pepper. Should I leave this on the plant? This plant has only produced this one pepper and it is amazing but I was hoping for red. The plant next to it has 4 peppers that are all in early growth stages.

If your peppers are not bearing fruit, the most common reason is due to temperature. Daytime temps can't get above 90 degrees F. and nighttime temps can't get above 75 degrees F. They prefer temps between 70 degrees and 80 degrees F.

By ed mcwhorter

this is my first time at trying to grow bell peppers. my plant is big and healthy looking, but i understand that normal is 5or 6 peppers per plant. my plant has 15 or 20 little round peppers on it about the size of the last joint of your thumb,and aren't. t growing any larger . they look like little lanterns,and the plant is still putting on moor blooms.HELP!!

The number of fruit really depends on the variety of plant, your location, and your conditions.
For example, a 'Vidi' variety might produce 4 to 8 peppers.
A 'Gourmet" may produce 6 to 12 fruit.
There are also varieties that produce smaller-size fruit--and 20 fruit would be normal.
Of course, hot pepper plants produce even more!

By Just Little Ole Me

I am confused. One answer said that pepper plants produce twice in 1 season. Yet another answer stated that if you harvest regularly encourages more blooming? As I am growing several plants to dehydrate them for cooking, should I be conservetive about giving them away? As my first round of peppers are coming in nicely, but I do not have any more blooms. You also said they can live 3-5 years, so I should not till that area, correct?
Thanks for helping.

Let's just back up: Peppers generally grow slowly. On one pepper plant, you may get 1 or 2 peppers to form or you may 6 to 8. It depends on the pepper variety and your garden/weather conditions. If you pick the pepper before it's fully mature, you will spark your plant into producing more peppers because the plant wants its "babies" to succeed, though many gardeners say the pepper tastes better if it's fully mature. One idea is to harvest early on some plants and let others mature. Try this experiment and see what works for you!

By faty

hi,
i live in hambiurg a colder climate.i planted my peppers in last november2012.because here is very cold my peppers are growing very slowly.
first they were indoor and they looked nice but when i moved them to garden the leaves are going to be yellow and they fall down what shall i do?

By Koala

I have a green bell pepper plant that is growing nicely but is being overshadowed by the leaves of zucchini.......is it ok to transplant this to a container this late in the season - it is almost the middle of July.

By maggi

I live in Montana in a colder climate. My pepper plants are not growing. They are about 8 inches tall and won't get bigger. It isn't super warm out. Is there something I can put around them to help retain heat? Thanks

Hi, Maggi, Peppers like a daytime temperature of 73 to 79 degrees and nighttime temps of at least 70 degrees. Otherwise, they'll grow slowly. Note that peppers do grow quite slowly as a rule so be patient. Make sure they're protected from any wind.
Other tips: pick varieties meant for cold climates, seed REALLY early or use transplants outside, and warm the soil with red or silver plastic mulch. As the peppers develop, add a fertilizer higher in Phosphorous and Potassium (not too much Nitrogen which inhibits fruit).

This sounds like blossom-end rot--which is due to a lack of calcium in the soil or cold and wet weather. To help: Maintain the soil pH around 6.5. Adding lime will increase the calcium in soil. Water consistently; only water if they don't get the required one inch of rain per week. Use "nitrate nitrogen" as the fertilizer nitrogen source. Avoid over-fertilization as side dressings during early fruiting.

By sharon woodruff

According to Aggie Horticulture, "Temperature may be the reason for blossom drop. The temperature range for fruit set is quite narrow. When nighttime temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. or above 75 degrees F., blossoms are likely to drop and fruit will not set. Daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F. will also inhibit fruit set, but fruits will again begin to form when cooler daytime temperatures appear."

By michael waldrop

this is first time planting bell pepper and i thought it was going great, the plant shot up big ang and tall. the first pepper has started nicely it is now about 3 inches around. my problem is now when the other buds, i had 5 more that flowered well and the little peppers started growing, but today 2 of them fell off the plant. is that normal? it seems like a healthy plant and like i said the first pepper is growing really well

Pepper plants are very sensitive to temperature and will drop buds if there is a sudden change in temperature. Poor pollination is another cause for flower drop. Plant some colorful flowers in the garden to attract more pollinators. Also make sure to water regularly.

By FredEric

The new, developing leaves on my pepper plants are misshapen, brittle, and crinkly--for lack of a better term. They are remaining green all the while, however, the margins of the older leaves are beginning to brown. Any thoughts? I am in the U.S. Midwest.

Peppers grow well in containers. Mix some compost into the potting soil and make sure the soil is not too heavy. Peppers grow best in light well-drained soil. Sprinkle sulfur or Epsom salts into the hole before planting the seedlings. Good luck!

By Anonymous

By Anonymous

I just read earlier on another gardening site that unlike the tomato plant, the pepper plant will not grow an extended root if transplanted too deeply. I am interspersing pepper plants amongst my tomatoes this year, my first time cultivating peppers. Hopefully they will get along with each other.

By Anonymous

I live in Canada. We have had phenomenal success with a sweet cherry pepper variety. They make little spherical peppers, good for salads and cooking. This will be the 5th year for planting them. But .... they produce 2 crops per plant: once in July (about 6 peppers per plant) and then again in September (about 30-40 peppers per plant! much bigger plants by then). The problem is: the 2nd crop is the BIG crop, but they dont have time to ripen in September and I usually must pick them green to save them from frost. What can I do to get the 2nd crop to come earlier? Should I pinch off the July blooms to speed it along? Is it driven by rhythm of climate or by the rest pperiod between crops? I buy the plants as seedlings, so I cant really control how early they get sprouted. I'd like to see the big crop come in August, when there's time for them to ripen.

By Anonymous

In instructions on ur page it says to put 3 seeds in pot then thin out to 2 ok then when u plant them in garden do u separate them or plant as is in pot because in ( ) it says keep paired plants close to touching , it sounds like u have to separate? Please explain further. Thank u

Ideally you should plant peppers at least 18" apart. If you have 2 seedlings in a starter pot separate them carefully before planting. Some readers have suggested that you can plant 2 peppers close together (the way they are in the pot) and you'll get a bigger "plant" that will do better in gardens with high winds that will bend small stems.

By Kim DLR

Yes, you can plant two peppers close together. This happened to me accidentally, actually, but as you said, they kind of support each other, and they have nice, woody, established bases. They're in their second season now, and I'm getting decent peppers. Some are larger and green, with a normal shape, while others are quite round, small, red, and have no seeds. I'll take whatever it gives me! =)

By Anonymous

Bell pepper plants can live 3 to 5 years and produce fruits given right conditions, i.e., mild climates. Harvesting regularly will encourage the plant to keep blossoming and setting fruit, especially early in the growing season.

By Anonymous

The number of fruits per plant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce five to eight fruit per plant. However, do not be surprised if you get one or two. Peppers are sensitive to temperature and need consistent moisture, especially during dry periods.

By Anonymous

By Anonymous

If its to hot (over 110 Degrees) yes, more shade the better. I get my best production here in the Mojave desert in the fall and Spring. Summer I just have to get my plants through it or sprout new plants so they are read to fruit in fall.

I agree with keeping 2 plants either in a container togother or close by. This ensures Bio diversity

Most people get to grow through summer, I have to plan for the hot months and grow mellons and Okra.

By Anonymous

Even indoors, peppers require not only warm but bright conditions. Thought there is sunlight, they need the intensity of light. I'm not sure where you live, but if it's in the north, you may need to investigate a grow light or two.

By Anonymous

My four peppers (some basic variety of large red peppers) gave good yield in pots in a SW-facing balcony. Now they're finished, and I'm wondering about going to the trouble to overwinter them indoors, vs. starting fresh in a few months with seed. What's the benefit of overwintering? I assume we'd get peppers faster from these plants than we would waiting for seed to become mature plants, but what about the quality of the peppers? Thanks!

By anonymous

I have a sweet pepper plant and it seems healthy. You know how the flowers are supposed to fall off but the pepper stays on the plant? Well, when my flowers fall off, so does the pepper. What should I do? I need help bad. Do you know what may be the reason?

By Anonymous

I have 1 pepper plant that i planted late and since it's getting cold i brought it inside, because someone told me they don't do well in the cold. About a day after i brought it in, it started wilting. The soil is pretty moist, and i put some compost in it. Why is it wilting?

A couple thoughts: Did you rinse the plants off really really well and inspect for pests? Peppers are magnets for mites. Is it too cold? Peppers are very sensitive to cold and do best between 60 and degrees and never colder than 55. They also like very bright light so you might need to supplement. Just water to keep soil from drying out.

Saving pepper plants over the winter months is tricky. Harvest the peppers and bring the containers indoors. Make sure that you don't bring in any outside insects. You may want to repot the plants in new soil. Place the plants in a cool shady spot (about 55 degrees). Water about once a week and let the plants go dormant. The leaves will fall off. Prune the plants by about 1/3. One month before your last frost date in the spring place the plants in a warm sunny spot indoors. Give the plants more water and you should see some new growth in about a week. Move outside when the temperatures have warmed up.

By Anonymous

Cut the pepper in half and see if you have an insect or bug inside. If not discard some of the pepper around the hole, wash and use. We suspect that you had a slug chewing on the pepper from the outside.

By Anonymous

Off late, all the full bloomed flowers on my pepper plant have been dropping, only the flowers and not the stems. After the flower drops, there are small little tiny peppers that can be seen on the stems but these don't seem to be growing.
What should I do?

By Anonymous

I've been growing Red Bell Peppers for several years without problems; however, my peppers have thinner, less meaty 'walls' than those sold grocery store. They taste great - just wondering what might be missing.

It could be the cultivar(s) that you are growing; some have thicker walls than others. At market, varieties with thick, smooth walls are favored. Thin-walled varieties may have a less attractive shape. For the home garden, look for cultivars that are described as being thick-walled, such as ‘Big Bertha’, ‘Red Knight’, and ‘California Wonder’.

Bell peppers change color as they mature; this happens best and most rapidly on the plant. But if you pick them just as they begin to change colors, they will continue to ripen indoors if stored in a warm place.

By Anonymous

This was our first year for a garden and we planted 12 tomato plants, 4 bell pepper plants. Tomatoes did great and are still producing but the bell peppers are small and not producing very much. What did we do wrong? We have had very dry summer but we watered every day.

Pepper plants need constant and even moisture. Add mulch around the plants to keep the soil from drying out. Peppers are also heavy feeders. Soon after the plants set fruit feed with a timed-release fertilizer.
Peppers will grow bigger in late summer when nights are cooler. If you have many small peppers on one plant it may help to thin them leaving just a couple to grow big.

By Anonymous

I have noticed my bell peppers plants are getting burn spots on them. I water every day. Any suggestions what to do to keep them from getting burn spots? They are in full sun from about 10am to 8pm in the spring and summer.

To avoid burn spots from an intense sun: 1. Plant peppers in blocks to provide foliage to the ground and each other, 2. Set up a frame with shade cloth. 3. Plant in an area that gets some afternoon shade for relief. 4. Plan sunflowers or other plants nearby to provide some shade.

By Anonymous

By Anonymous

When I repotted my green bell pepper, I accidently broke off the top of the plant which had some small peppers developing. I've removed this broken stem part and wonder if there is any hope for any other peppers developing/growing since there doesn't seem to be any blossom on the remaining stem?

By Anonymous

Hi,

I bought a pepper plant a month or two ago with three peppers already on the plant. Since replanting it in my garden I have gotten no new flowers and the fruit that was already there has not gotten visibly bigger in any way. The biggest one is still pretty small (3-4 in) and the other two are like one to two in... Any thoughts? I think I'm watering it enough. I'm giving it a good dousing two to three times a week...

Some thoughts--Do you have enough sun? Peppers need eight hours of direct sunlight. Ensure good drainage. Peppers easily succumb to wet feet. Have you tested the soil? Peppers require a sweet soil -- pH between 6 and 8, phosphorous-rich -- bonemeal works well, and a soil high in organic matter. Hope this helps.

By Anonymous

Thx for the reply. First bet is that it's not quite getting enought sun where it is. It probably gets closer to 5 hrs of sun per day where it is... Not sure about the soil. i think i'll plant my garden in a different spot next year...

By Anonymous

Hi, My pepper plant's got quite a few peppers growing on it but then about 2 weeks back I fertilized the soil and I think I put in a little too much. Now all the new blossoms have fallen off and the little ones that were developing too. Will the peppers growing on it get affected as well and how long will it take for the excess fertilizer effect to wear off?

Has it been extra hot outside? Often, blossom drop is because daytime temperatures got about 90 degrees (F) and nighttime above 75. Bell peppers prefer to grow in temps 70 to 80 degrees. Also, avoid overfertilizing and do not disturb the soil around the plant. At this point, it's hard to say when the fertilizer will wear off; it depends on the amount of rain and how much you added, but you'll need to leave the peppers alone.

By Anonymous

Hi, the temperature has been around 28 degrees(C).I have kept the plant away from direct rain as it has been pouring quite a bit.Since my plant is in a container, I'll have to be extra careful next time I fertilise it, which I don't think I'm going to do in a while now.
Thanks alot for your help.

By Anonymous

Can I safely move in door bell pepper plants into a larger container when it is already blooming and fruiting?

I purchased them too early (its taken forever to warm up in the pacific northwest) so I put them in a hot window. They bloomed and fruited to my surprise, but they are in their original pots. Can I repot them now or will that shock them too badly?

Yes, you can repot your bell peppers--and should do so. They need to be in fairly large pots for good production--often 5 gallon. Wet them down and let them recover in the shade to minimize shock. Reintroduce to full sun in 1 to 3 days.

By Anonymous

I have one particular bell pepper plant that blooms and as soon as it starts to set the stem of the bloom turns yellow and it drops off the plant. This has happened to three blooms all on the lower part of the plant. It is still blooming but has not set an actual fruit yet. Is there something I can do to prevent this? So far it has not happened to my other 6 plants but none of them have set yet either they are all just in bloom.

If you have blossom drop, it's probably too cool to set fruit. Peppers like hot, humid weather. Be patient if your weather will be warming soon. Other causes: Poor pollination, temperatures under 55F or over 95F degrees. Be sure to fertilize the right amount. Also, peppers don't like the soil around them disturbed so be gentle.

By Anonymous

I have grown tomato plants before but not peppers......this is my first time......I transplanted a bell pepper plant 3 weeks ago, and while it is growing, the leaves have small holes in them and the tips of some of the leaves look almost burned(like old curled up paper)....interestingly, the cucumber plant next to it has the same problem, though all of the tomato plants around these two look great.....any thoughts on what the problem might be?

We advise that you check for insects. The brown edges don’t do any harm if the rest of the plant is healthy. For a natural bug spray, try this:
Stir together 1 quart of water, 1 tsp of liquid dish soap and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Do not dilute before spraying on plants. Useful against aphids and scale insects.

By Anonymous

I planted a green bell pepper plant i bought that already had to peppers growing. It looked great at first but then the leaves drooped but werent dry and crispy. now the leaves have completely fallen off. I dont know what happened or if it can be saved.

It's hard to say without pictures or more description. If the leaves don't have holes, then the problem may be 1) they aren't getting enough light, 2) they aren't getting enough heat, or 3) they are very sensitive to temperature change and perhaps there was dramatic change from the store to your home. Make sure they get lots of very consistent heat.

This is idicative of a calcium deficiency. Green Light puts out a product for just that problem on tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and melons. You mix one tablespoon of it in a quart of water (I mix mine right in the spray bottle as it is liquid). Spraying this on those particular plants makes the adjustment/correction in their chemistry and - no more of that problem. It is in a concentrated form in a 16 ounce, white plastic bottle which will probably last you into next season if your garden is not huge. Our neighbors now use it because they saw the difference in their yield and ours. Happy harvesting.

I have gotten peppers on my plants but one now developed a soft mushy brown spot on the side. It is not on either end but in the middle. What is causing this? It has been 95 and scorching hot sun. Can someone help me? thanks in advance. I don't wnt to lose all these peppers if they all start to get like that.

Most likely, the peppers are suffering from blossom end rot, which can spread to any area of the fruit and is not always on the "ends". Provide a good mulch to prevent moisture evaporation, and shade your plants during the hottest hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.