Hindscarth, Dale Head, and
Robinson

Date: 29-Jan-2010

Map: Landranger 89, 90, OL4

Weather: Cool, early sunshine giving way
later to a blizzard, then clear again.

A
circular walk from just past Little Town, up Hindscarth,
over to Dale Head. Back to Robinson, and then down to
Newlands Hause. Up to Knott Rigg and on to Ard Crags
returning down to the car park:
11.6 miles – as measured on SatMap

This
walk was arranged a few weeks ago at the time of Ice Age
Britain. I finalised the route after I’d bought an ice axe
and crampons, thus ensuring a rapid thaw ensued. A week ago
I had walked the adjacent crags and looking across I fancied
walking up here next to bag a few more wainwrights, and get
a good look back to the adjacent fells – there’s always an
adjacent crag in the Lake District
– well almost everywhere. The Derwent Fells are a distinct
group of ridges all with a strong west-east trend, shaped by
periods of glaciations in the last ice ages. The weather
forecast was good, cold but good so we were all hopeful of a
good day out in the hills. Paul lured me up to
Grasmere
the night before the walk to an offer of a cheap B&B at the
Red Lion and much refreshment. Six pints of Dent Aviator Ale
and a chicken pizza later I was really ready for a walk –
not an ideal preparation for a stomp up the hills. I thought
staying up in the lakes the night before would be an added
advantage & reduce my driving times. It is certainly more
relaxing, but I have to remember that there are no motorways
around here and breakfast starts at 8am. Despite this I had
a steady drive over from Grasmere,
taking the long way around to the meet point, I made it in
time just, and so did everyone else.

The
small chapel past Little Town, with the contractors

early
morning looking up to Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson

Sharing breakfast

looking over to Ard Crags and beyond to Eel Crags and
Grasmoor

We
agreed to start at 8:30am and that took some dedication from
the guys today as they had to travel from afar –
Nottinghamshire and Hull in
East Yorkshire - they were up and away at 4:30
and 5:15 to get here on time. Today’s walk was well attended
by Catherine, Dave, Tony, Micky, Mark and Ian. It was a
delight to meet new and old faces and we all had a good chat
at some stage during the day. Thankfully they got the
weather they deserved and between us all we have some
cracking pictures. It was a good parking spot beyond Little
Town and the day started out with a guffaw. Some of you may
remember when coal was delivered to your door – well Dave
got out his daysack and it was much the same weight as a
sack of coal, only not so grubby. We all attempted to lift
it and didn’t envy him the task of humping that uphill and
down dale. Next up was Mark who stood there a little puzzled
at how his boots could have jumped out of the car and ran
back inside his house, because that’s where they were. He
must have had cold feet sometime in the day because he ended
up walking in trainers – but he never complained and they
sped him to the top of Hindscarth. Off we set into a really
pleasant morning, turning into a field full of contractor’s
machinery, Lorries and cars. They were there for repairing
some snow and ice damage I think, and I’m glad we got parked
before they got going – there seemed to be a communal
reluctance to leave the warmth of their cabs, reading the
papers, drinking some tea and having a tab. I preferred what
we were doing though – the early signs were good – blue sky,
fluffy clouds, a bit breezy, but all conditions conducive to
a cracking walk.

Looking back down the valley to Skiddaw in the distance

lovely early morning sunshine

Hindscarth and Robinson

So there we were, 7 of the magnificent variety with a
range of walking fitness from the sublime to the knackered –
some mountain goats, some not so much (I include myself in
the latter category), but we all managed the walk ok.
Today’s route was a good one as it had a couple of ‘get out
of jail’ cards thrown in where we could cut the walk short
if required. I got reminded in the bar last night that we
wouldn’t need crampons, but I didn’t remember if that was
before or after the six pints. I quaffed a tin of Red Bull
and a few oat cakes and we were off crossing the fields to
the base of the fell. The Derwent Fells are
characteristically steep on the way up and down and the path
up to Hindscarth isn’t any different – so if you only walk
on the flat it can be a bit of a shock to the system,
especially the legs and lungs. We passed by a small farm and
cut up the side of the fell to the ridge line, passing a
Highland
cow and a horse – the horse wasn’t too keen on sharing his
hay either and he let the cow know it.

the
ridge up to Hindscarth with Dale Head to the left

A
grand vista the higher we got – Catbells and Keswick in view

looking over to the ridge we will be walking later – I am
the shadow

We had
plenty of stops along the way as we turned to admire a
sunlit Skiddaw behind us and the dusted peaks ahead of us.
Mark is in training for the national 3-peaks challenge, so
he decided that the early pace was a bit sluggish, and with
a quick ‘meep meep’ off he set like the roadrunner. It was
the last we saw of him for a little while as he attained the
heights of Hindscarth in a mighty impressive 1hr 6mins –
mind you he had to hunker down in the summit shelter for a
little while to wait for the less fleet of foot. This was
the biggest walk for some of us for a while and as we walked
steeply up the ridge the group splintered somewhat, but we
all made our own way, stopping and admiring the adjacent
fells, the summit ahead and a cloud free Skiddaw and
Blencathra – a rare event if ever I saw one. The wind was
chill, but on the sunny side of the hill it was really
pleasant.

The
Derwent Fells running west to east

Nearly at the top of Hindscarth – the view back down the
ridge

The
Helvellyn range from the summit of Hindscarth

About ¾
of the way up to Hindscarth a few of us pressed on to walk
over to Dale Head, whilst the others recuperated on the
summit of Hindscarth. Once we were up above the snowline the
Helvellyn range hove into view over to the south east
complete with a fresh dusting of snow to walk on. The
conditions were ok with the occasional patches of ice/snow
to negotiate. Tony had driven over from
Hull
this morning and as an ex-marine showed his pedigree by
steaming up the last pull to Hindscarth without a bead of
sweat appearing. We had a good chat about his upcoming
adventure with some cadets, the only downside I could see is
the responsibility for a bunch of lads – boys will be boys.
I’m looking forward to his stories when he gets back. He was
first up the slope and zoomed past the summit shelter and
Mark, who was well camouflaged against the dark stones –
good job it wasn’t snowing – we’d never have spotted him. He
had all his gear on and he must have been a bit chill
waiting for us.

The
Scafells in the distance, Ennerdale in the shade

Micky
on his way up to Dale Head, Buttermere below, High Stile and
High Crag beyond

On
our way to Dale Head – Tony, Pearsy and Radder stand and
stare

here
comes the weather

Once we
were up on the top of Hindscarth we had a fantastic 360deg
panorama, with great clarity of light we could see for
miles, as well as a couple of fighter jets flying past us.
We did a gentle pirouette and could see much of the Lake
District and all the big boys, over to the Isle of Man, and
up to
Scotland
– magnificent and worth the toil. The snow here was only 1
or 2 inches and it was a nice carpet to walk along, but
there was the odd patch of Neve here and there which
concentrates the mind a bit. It was a pleasant stroll over
to Dale Head, stopping to take in the vista now and again
and we bagged the second wainwright of the day, albeit at
different times. It has a tremendously neat cairn, just
right for leaning on to admire the views – from here we
could pick out the Langdales and the back of Pike of
Stickles head. The Scafells, Bow Fell and the Crinkles were
recognisable as was Pillar across Ennerdale. The pointy
outline of Catstye Cam could also be seen close to Helvellyn
itself – it’s no wonder wainwright spent so much time on his
drawings as the hills look so different from this aspect –
what a great pastime he had.

looking back to Hindscarth and Robinson

Dale
Head summit cairn – Helvellyn in the background

on our way across to Robinson before the blizzard came

We
didn’t hang about too long on the summit of Dale Head as the
others would be waiting around at Hindscarth and would be
getting a bit chill – but Dave being the consummate
gentlemen leant Dibs his jumper. Looking back over
Hindscarth the sky was ominously grey, but on the plus side
it made for a great picture of Micky coming down the snowy
slope. We all met up again at the col below Hindscarth and
Lexi looked a bit peckish, and waited patiently for some
tasty morsels coming her way – what a lovely dog, my Cornish
pasty didn’t last too long. I must remember some doggie
biscuits next time so she can pull me uphill when needed. I
was a bit surprised today as I thought that after last
night’s juice I would struggle up the slopes, but I was
generally not too bad. A short stop for some refreshments
and a look over to the dark lump of Pillar rock, we were
ready to move off again. The drop down off Hindscarth was
straightforward but all the while the storm clouds were
moving in from the north – that’s why the wind was a bit
chill, and the cloud base got lower and lower. So we knew we
were in for some sort of rain/sleet/snow and snow it did. We
were a little on the way up Robinson, self and Dave were
busy having a natter at the back of the field when the
blizzard came down. It wasn’t too stingy but it pretty well
obliterated everything and didn’t look like it was going to
go away fast anywhere soon. It was followed by the quiet -
with big gobs of snow falling, but still we plodded on and
up. Dave wearing his big woolly jumper and with his hat he
looked like a Russian storm trooper - snow clad but happy to
be out.

Looking back to Dale Head, Grey Knotts in the distance

Amnesiac Dave – wool is warm

the
summit of Robinson after the storm

Radder descends from Robinson, Dibble and Lexi further on

In all
the meet ups I’ve had over the last year or so I’ve never
met anyone yet whose been an arse – maybe they’ll all turn
up one day at the same time? Everyone I’ve met has been
great and we’re all united by a love of walking and the
surrounds – it’s just the occasional steep climb that is the
bar steward. The main group went straight up the side of
Robinson close to the wall in increasingly white out
conditions, while self and Dave chatted away at the back.
The others disappeared into the murk and we started to cut
across the slope towards the summit – handy these Satmap GPS
sets. The others thought that we’d got lost but eventually
we all merged together at the summit in conditions that were
best described as a little wintery. Up on the summit poor
Lexi was wearing a windblown veil of snow and looked none
too impressed with the way it was. Here we had a quick talk
about continuing the route or cutting it short by walking
down off Robinson back to the valley. We all thought that it
was best to call it a day in those conditions and started
off down the slope, but we didn’t get far before Mark
decided he’d like to go and carry on, so we about turned and
what a good decision that was. Within a few minutes a patch
of blue sky appeared above and with the prospect of 2 more
wainwrights we set off to the North West to descend to Buttermere Moss and
High Snockrigg.

plenty of spindrift blowing around

on our way across Buttermere Moss

the
view across Rannerdale Knotts, Crummock Water to the Solway
Firth

Steeply down to Newlands Hause

The
ground down from Robinson was the dodgiest we walked on all
day and one or two patches of shiny Neve awaited the unwary.
Ian and Micky both had a tumble having step in softer snow –
and both laughed equally hard at each other. I had a moment
of sitting down as well, but Radder with his no grip
trainers was fine. There was a very inviting patch to set
off and slide down and Ian and Micky were thinking about it,
but it would have been a bit too quick down there and it was
a bit full of boulders lower down, and nothing to put the
brakes on. Out came a touch of sunlight and all was well
with the world once more. We had a chat about bagging the
last 2 wainwrights, but that involved a long drop down to
Newlands Hause and an equally steep climb up to Knott Rigg,
and decided that those who could would and those that didn’t
wouldn’t. Across the moss the path was a little squelchy,
which is why it’s called a moss, but it was ok for a spot of
bog hopping. We didn’t go up to High Snockrigg, turning
right to the edge of the world. The slope down from the moss
is really steep, so we all stopped and had a good feed and
drink before continuing. The views down the valley towards
Skiddaw were superb, brilliant U-shaped sides carved by
glaciations.

Keskadale, our next ridge up to the left

the
view back down from Knott Rigg, High Stile in the background

Causey Pike beyond Ard Crags

the
view to the valley where we started, Maiden Moor beyond

We
carefully zigzagged down the slopes to Newlands Hause and
thankfully everyone made it without mishap, and here we
parted company with Dibs, Lexi and Dave, agreeing to meet up
at the end of the ridge. I gave them our planned route and
they tooded off to meet us later –only we didn’t follow our
route when we got down as we thought that they would be
already back at the car – oops sorry guys and gals. Knott
Rigg and Ard Crags rise steeply up from the hause and form a
sharp ridge between two big valleys – a great big fin shape
- and although it
looked impossibly steep last week from Eel Crags and Sail it
is wide enough on the top to ease any vertigo sufferer’s
worries and the gradient eases once up top. We spotted the
double D’s down in the valley ambling along the road with
Lexi, and the other way was a huge impressive view of Sail,
Eel Crag, Scar Crags and Causey Pike. Further behind us
Grasmoor peeked out now and again, I’ll have to do that one
day soon. The walk from Knott Rigg to Ard Crags was a
delight – gently undulating and it was great to stretch the
legs, with no ice and the nice crunch of fresh snow to walk
on. The cairn on top of Ard Crags wasn’t – just a small pile
of rubble really, but from here we could see down into the
valley below and the small church and car park at the start
of the walk, no contractors at this end of the day.

looking back over to Eel Crag and Sail

and
over to our route earlier

the
view back up to Ard Crags

The
chapel in the valley below – hidden by the trees

At the
end of the ridge it dropped sharply down on a narrow path,
which was about the width of two boots. It went down in a
pretty straight line as well, and it was hard not to build
up too much momentum – and Mark still stayed on his feet. At
the base of the slope the descent eased through some sheep
pasture and we nipped down through a field to get to the
road and our route to the car park. We’d been keeping an eye
out for Dave, Dibbs and Lexi but we couldn’t spot them on
the road. So we made the only mistake of the day really –
the road beckoned and we took it, as it looked a bit of a
trot through unknown fields. We passed by a couple of newly
renovated B&B’s and a new build – not something you see very
often. A gentle trot down the lanes saw us back at the car
park expecting to see the others – but they weren’t there.
They waited for us and we waited for them – so I nipped up
the road in the car to have a quick look, while they decided
to walk back – so we missed each other by minutes. But not
to worry because Ian had promised us a fantastic pint in the
Farmers Arms in Portinscale – oh yes I thought brilliant –
it was shut….so was the next one…and the next one…so we
ended up in Keswick for a well deserved pint. What great
company, what a great pint and what a great walk. January’s
turning out to be brilliant – it’s good this walking
malarkey.