Tuesday, May 14, 2013

The India festival calendar: April–May 2013

APRIL

Gangaur – For those who want to pitch in some
prayers in return for marital bliss, Rajasthan’s Gangaur festival
provides just the occasion! Celebrated largely by women, Lord Shiva’s
consort, Gauri is the focus of devotion on this day. Marital fidelity
and welcoming of Spring converge during an 18 day period of fasting,
followed by a feast on the last day. You can see small groups of young
women going about with clay pots on their heads, with a lit lamp inside.
The last three days are the peak of the festival when women bid
farewell to the Goddess Gauri. The capital city of Jaipur is an apt
location to witness this as a procession starting from the City Palace,
goes past important markets and ends at Talkatora.

Baisakhi – If dancing to the rhythmic beats of a ‘dhol’
comes to you naturally, spare no time and head out to the Punjab on 14
April. The contagious vigour of Punjabis is bound to grip you as they
celebrate the harvest festival of Baisakhi. Amritsar, home to the Golden
Temple, is a safe bet to see the action at the Gurudwara, where the day
also commemorates the formation of the Sikh brotherhood, Khalsa. You
can also see the village celebrations at close quarters by staying at
Prakriti Farms (www.prakritifarms.com),
45 km from Chandigarh. Join in the festivities of Rail Majra village as
street processions pass you. Get spoilt by the ghee dripping Punjabi
food and the comforts of a typical rural mud house with thatched roof;
perfect ambiance to feel the pulse of Baisakhi.

Pulikkali – Small troupes of boys dressed in Tiger
masks and bodies painted with stripes, scrounge the streets of Thrissur
in the month of April. Pulikkali or ‘tiger dance’ dates back 200 years
ago when the Maharaja of Cochin introduced this folk art as an annual
performance during Onam celebrations to denote the vigour and the spirit
of his army. Now performances are held in the centre of the town at
Swaraj grounds in Thrissur. Stealthy movements and wild actions are
induced in the dance to add interest. This year Pulikkali will be held
on 12th April.

Karni Mata- Deshnok village (30km from Bikaner) is
abuzz with impassioned devotees of Karni Mata (an incarnation of Goddess
Durga) during the Navratras. As the gates open at 4am, jostle into the
temple much like its furry inhabitants, over 20000 rats! The Karni Mata
festival usually falls in April, but was celebrated in March this year.
The sight is still worth your time, if you can spot a white rat amidst
the bustle of brown ones, who are also known as ‘kabbas’. Said to be the
reincarnation of the Mata herself, if you happen to trample a rat, you
have to replace it with one made in silver or gold. Don’t be alarmed if
the scampering company has taken a bite of your ‘parasad’; their saliva
smothered food brings plenty of god fortune.

Thrissur Pooram – One of the grandest festivals of
Kerala, Thrissur Pooram, brings about a complete metamorphosis in the
otherwise sleepy town of Thrissur. The day is replete with enticing
photo opportunities as parades of caparisoned elephants start from Paramekkavu Bhagavathy and Thiruvambadi
Bhagavathy temples and converge at the Vadakkunnathan Temple at Swaraj
Grounds. This temple lies in the middle of the city on a small hill.
Religious ceremonies accompanied by musical instruments go on for the
day till the much-awaited fireworks’ display starts in the evening. Make
sure that you stay the entire night as the festival reaches a crescendo
in the wee hours of the morning.

Bum Festival – The full moon, some alcohol and many
whims construe the dates of ‘Kunde Habba’ or the Bum Festival! You will
not be giving your camera a rest with tribals dressed in bright colours
and hurling playful abuses at the local deities! This is one of those
many festivals in India, which has gotten lost in the elusive jungles of
Coorg. It is help in April on a full moon night, and the dates can only
be locally sourced closer to the festival.

MAY

Urs, Ajmer Sharif –Quwwallis, massive preparations of
sweets and brightly lit markets enliven the mosque area in Ajmer, as
thousands descend on the town to commemorate the death anniversary of
Sufi saint, Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti in May each year. Though the
occasion is a solemn one, the atmosphere is upbeat as lakhs of devotees
from all walks of life congregate here.

Akshaya Tritiya – For the ladies, Akshaya Tritiya
brings about yet another reason to splurge on gold. While the modern day
inference has been deduced to buying new jewelry for good luck,
originally this festival has many somber conjectures: the birthday of
Lord Parasurama and the day that Ved Vyasa started writing the
Mahabharata. The predominantly Hindu and Jain festival is largely
celebrated in South Indian cities and towns with large Jain communities.
Akshaya Tritiya is slated for 13th May this year.

Moatsu Festival, Nagaland – Come May, and the quiet
town of Mokokchung erupts into merriment to celebrate the Moatsu
Festival. Members of the Ao tribe celebrate this to laud the harvest
bounty as they complete the next batch of sowing. The annual cleaning of
fields and houses takes about a week. The community immerses in
gatherings by the fire, wearing their best attire and serving sumptuous
meals of meat and wine. The festival is celebrated in the first week of
May.