It is our pleasure to publish today the Parisian Gentleman Selection of Ready-to-Wear Suits for 2014 !

This selection covers 39 houses and brands that have been carefully selected over a period of several months, with the valuable input of a few collaborators from the international sartorial scene, a method which is a first in the history of our selections.

This edition will be the beginning of many future collaborative pieces. It is indeed our hope to continue reuniting under vast projects such as this one, many different and respected names in the field–from established authors and fine journalists to dedicated bloggers, to create truly independent and in-depth selections curated with care and passion and up to date with the latest developments in the ever-changing world of men’s style.

For the 2014 edition of our RTW suits selection, Sonya, Greg and myself have had the honor of working with five very fine contributors ; three French, one Finish and one American.

First, let us give honor where honor is due : G. Bruce Boyer is one of the most respected and erudite writers in the field of men’s style and has done us the great pleasure of delivering reviews on two American houses. Ville Raivio, from the excellent Finish blog KEIKARI, was also kind enough to send us a review on another American house.

At the heart of this project, we have two passionate French bloggers: Dirnelli & Paul F, who sent us reviews on no less than 20 houses !

Dirnelli is an established name in the small world of I-Gents. His tumblr DIRNELLI has gradually become a very reliable resource for any and all gentlemen seeking sartorial inspiration. Having myself a first-hand knowledge of the long-winded investment in time required to maintain such a consistent activity, I can only salute Dirnelli’s diligence that has earned him a sizeable and passionate readership.

Paul F. is a more relaxed proponent of the new sartorial “selfie” wave. Though his approach is less hard-lined than Dirnelli’s, it is no less serious and knowledgeable. His Tumblr PAUL-LUX is a haven of good taste and elegance, animated by a truly passionate man at the head of a lovingly acquired collection of all things sartorial. The ensembles he presents are often splendid, denoting a very keen sartorial eye.

Lastly, to give voice to the youngest generation on the very important subject of RTW suits, we have once more opened our columns to our young friends of BONNE GUEULE, who kindly reviewed a young and up-and-coming French house for us.

The prices indicated in this selection are an estimated average, as such prices may vary (sometimes impressively so) between the different lines, collections and fabrics chosen. That being said, the estimations should be a reliable indicator that will help you find your way through this list which we have intended to make representative of today’s market.

Without further ado, presented in ascending price order, is the Parisian Gentleman Selection of Ready-to-Wear suits for 2014 !

TM LEWIN

Still a relevant entry-level offer

From 200 to 400 €

http://www.tmlewinshirts.eu

By Hugo Jacomet :

The suiting offered by English shirt makers, with TM Lewin being well in the lead, has always been a fantastic entry-level option in the world of classic men’s style, especially for the younger generations and for those on a tight budget.

The suit lines are indeed very affordable with prices frequently reduced to ~200€ during sales, which are almost permanent with new discount offers every week. TM Lewin’s suits are all made far from Jermyn Street (TM Lewin is owned by the Prominent Group, which operates major factories in Asia and India), and are almost all fused — though some models with floating chest pieces are available.

Nevertheless, with an average price of ~250€ for a full suit, TM Lewin remains–together with its main competitor Charles Tyrwhitt–an excellent first serious step in the world of classic men’s style.

The cuts are classic, the fabric selection and quality is decent at best, as are the few finishing touches. But at this price, you undeniably get what you have paid for.

++ : Decent suits for a low price, lots of variety in terms of cuts and fabrics, good customer service.

- – : You might want to visit one of the shops (in the UK) to try on a suit first hand and check your size, even though the online shop and return policies are very reliable.

SUITSUPPLY

Sartorial revolution

From 300 to 800 €

suitsupply.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

Though some may not want to admit it, Suitsupply is a smashing entrepreneurial success and one of the main driving forces behind today’s small sartorial revolution.

By making men’s style accessible to almost everyone with fair price offerings complete with the undeniable flair in their collections and their talent in creating striking ad campaigns, Suitsupply has become the benchmark brand in the crowded sector of affordable men’s style (with Milano’s Boggi not too far behind).

Suitsupply was created in 2001 in Amsterdam, by a young Fokke de Jong, who built his strategy on the simple and audacious gamble of installing his first stores in unusual places, including being situated on a highway and later being located a significant distance away from the main commercial arteries. The idea was to make Suitsupply a destination, instead of just another shop situated in a line-up of stores. This is a very atypical way of doing business that proved very successful as stores located on offbeat locations entail a much lower rent and cost of maintenance which allows the saved money to be channeled into creating a vertical approach to the production line (which allows for Suitsupply to be in full control of its products, from the purchase of raw materials all the way up to sales). This approach has allowed the young company to pressure the men’s style market to a breaking point by offering a vast choice of aggressively priced suits at a quality / price ratio unheard of at the time.

By following up with a few hard-hitting ad campaigns on the internet (accompanied with a series of photography which I personally like, such as the “Trust the Suit” or the “Start Smoking” campaigns), the Dutch brand would enjoy a dazzling momentum with the opening of no less than 50 stores, including 10 in the USA and a flagship store on Madison Avenue.

With a wide choice of suits sold at a very fair price including a good deal of attention put into the styling of collections that are cut from good quality fabrics, Suitsupply is an excellent first step (perhaps the best in its price range) into the world of personal elegance, no matter your age or your financial means.

++ : Lots of style to chose from, good quality of construction for the price tag.

- – : The slightly (too) short trousers… a house “trademark” it would seem.

By Paul F :

My first impression after spending 10 minutes in a Suitsupply store in Brussels was not very good. Disappointing even. I was simply unable to find a suit that would fit me.

The truth is, I rarely accept help from salesmen, probably because I have seen too many incompetent ones, obsessed with sales figures and without any sense of style. After looking in more detail, I finally found something: a model called HAVANA. No, I don’t smoke cigars, but this model seemed to be the only cut that fit me well.

It is characterized by natural shoulders, a two-button jacket and flat front trousers. I had at first spotted the SOHO cut, but since I skipped swimming classes when I was younger, it’s a deal-breaker with such a close cut. You need to learn how to navigate a Suitsupply store if only for the sheer quantity of cuts on display. Take your time and try on several models.

The company, founded in Amsterdam, has now expanded far and wide, and its business model is working very well. Suitsupply sources its fabrics in Italy and then sends the fabric stock to China, where the suits are constructed. They are then sold either in one of the 50+ physical stores of the brand or via the excellent online shop (which has the best return policy I’ve ever seen, since one can return the items for free with UPS picking the products up right at your door !). The fabrics offered range from basic to more fashionable. As such, it’s very likely that many a gent will find something that satisfies them.

Suitsupply is an ideal way to start a quality wardrobe. Don’t blame the brand for its daring advertisements but instead focus on the products. There is true potential here with an honorable quality of construct.

BOGGI

Perfect budget buy

From 300 to 850 €

http://www.boggi.it

By Dirnelli :

This RTW brand is very impressive due to the wide range and elegant styling of its collection, all positioned at very reasonable prices. If I were to recommend just one entry-level brand to penurious sartorialists around the globe, Boggi would be it. In this price range, its major competitor is Suitsupply, but Boggi has the advantage of being ‘Made in Italy.’ Almost everything in Boggi’s plethoric product range is something you would want to wear if you are a fan of current Italian style.

Part of Boggi’s secret is using many different suppliers — e.g. Lardini, Lubiam, Flannnel Bay, Isaia, Tagliatore and even Caruso — so there is always something for everyone’s taste in every collection. Some suits are inexpensive and fused, but others are more expensive and fully canvassed, using luxury fabrics like Loro Piana Tasmanian Super 150′s.

- – : Construction quality is not to the highest standard and alterations are not included in the price.

By Paul F :

Boggi created a segment where there used to be little to none – in the quality mid-range offering (think neither Zara nor Brioni).

They are a good answer to the ever-recurring question that young graduates keep asking on forums around the web…where to find a decent suit below 400 euros for a first job, or even a job interview ?

Boggi, thanks to tight cost control, huge orders and a willingly lower margin, is able to offer a good selection of fabrics from well-known providers such as Vitale Barberis Canonico, or Loro Piana in a variety of cuts which fits most men from size EU 44 to 58. The cuts are not what you would consider “fashionable”, albeit they tend to be slimmer than most of what is done today, but you will not find ridiculously slim lapels straight from the Slimane Era (designer of Dior Homme in the 2000s).

Those in the know might recognize some references to leading Italian houses such as larger lapels, as well as finer points like the use of Solaro fabric with red/green reflections on a beige cotton. The top line is manufactured at some very reputable workshops. Boggi offers a perfect opportunity to buy a fully canvassed suit for approximately 800 euros. Here is how you start a quality wardrobe without breaking your piggy bank !

Salesmen are usually much better than the standard ones you would run into at most of the other stores within the same price range; most clerks are even actually Italian. At Boggi, navy flannel jackets with a detachable light grey flannel zip collars hang next to navy, grey and beige suits in a variety of plain fabrics as well as striped, windowpane or even Prince of Wales fabrics–all at a reasonable price.

BEAMS

A pleasant surprise from Japan

From 300 to 600 €

http://www.beams.co.jp

By Paul F :

Beams turned out to be a really pleasant surprise that I came across during my last visit to Tokyo.

This brand has stores all over the country, including no less than 30 stores in Tokyo alone. Given the number of locations, I did not expect much more than an enhanced version of Zara, but was surprised to find an extraordinary source of inspiration with a smart selection of products on display, which usually seems to suit the atmosphere of the district where the store is located (from formal to casual wear.)

Most suits branded Beams are fused, consequently they are truly cheap: 300 euros at full retail price. I bought a windowpane check grey flannel suit on sale and I don’t regret it one bit. Beams offers the best alternative to department store entry level suits. However, that means you would have to actually fly to Japan or dare to order online without trying the suit on first. And as one might expect, their suit sizes tend to be on the smaller side.

Beams stores are far from being run-of-the-mill entry level stores. They actually have a vast selection and a highly stylish sales force, even if the work staff’s style is not always my cup of tea.

Beams also offers partially or fully canvassed suits and coats manufactured by Ring Jacket or by Italian brands like Lardini or Boglioli. If you visit Japan, make sure to pop into several Beams stores. I can guarantee that you will be pleasantly surprised by what you’ll see.

LANDER URQUIJO

The Basque sensation

from 400 to 750€

http://www.landerurquijo.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

This young Spanish house is the love child of Instagram / Tumblr / forums / blogs the world over, and is one of the most pleasant surprises ever to emerge from a country not necessarily famed for its contribution to suiting (even though Spain has nothing to prove when it comes to shoes.)

Its success among men’s style aficionados has allowed the brand to expand past its native borders all the way over to Paris, where it has opened a quaint little shop.

Lander Urquijo offers a limited but well conceived line of sports jackets and suits at intriguing prices. Their clever use of unusual colors is a breath of fresh air and the style of the house is very convincing, as is the quality of construct.

A very good option for those seeking colorful suits with a very smart silhouette.

The new wave is on the way and it is a refreshing one…Viva Espana !

By Dirnelli :

This Spanish brand cleverly picked up where Hackett left off…after Hackett lost its fire.

Lander Urquijo offers Brit-with-a-twist, blue-blooded menswear classics done with Mediterranean panache and eccentricity. The references to Savile Row and to Naples are explicit in the styling of the collections.

It’s fun to watch (or patron) a brand that’s in the early days of expansion — Lander Urquijo, the man, is a 40-year old that you can still go to and shake hands with upon meeting. Lander’s family has owned a tailoring business in Spain for at least a generation, but young heir Lander has decided to breathe new life into the family business by expanding the RTW operations.

- – : Hard to find, as the brand is still quite confidential, with only 3 shops (Madrid, Bilbao and now Paris.)

O’CONNELL’S

Good suits for the stout figure

From 400 to 800 €

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com

By Sonya Glyn Nicholson :

For the record, O’Connell’s was started by three Buffalo Bills players in the late 1950s. Soon after, Bernie Huber purchased O’Connells and the Huber’s have retained the store to this day.

O’Connell’s swears by the style of the 1950s and in addition to their current offerings, still has a sizable stock of period suits for lovers of vintage, that are becoming more numerous. The somewhat shielded brand enjoys a loyal and passionate customer base and has a following that confirms the value of their products…all still fashioned in 1950s style with no apologies (and if you have a thing for patchwork gingham trousers, congratulations, this is your place). Some suits have more, albeit slight, waist suppression than others so pay attention to the overall silhouette created by the fit.

Tailored in Canada—O’Connell suits have center vents, undarted jackets, saddled shoulders, and raglan sleeves that give strong indicators of pure American style. Yet the selection has more nostalgic class and flair than the average RTW sack suit or soft tailored ensemble you’ll find in the States. We like the high gorge and the 3-roll-2 jacket front on many of the coats, with the lapel rolled over the top button and the fact that none of O’Connells suits are fused.

There are some complaints of long shipping times in specific areas, and so if you are having an item shipped, ask up front about how long it will take for your suit to arrive.

Wool suits start at $495.00.

++ : Well adapted for the tall or larger gentlemen. Good value for money.

- – : Cuts can be wide, and all in all, fairly conventional

MACO

Caruso by Caruso

From 500 to 800€

No website

By Dirnelli :

Maco is a brand made by Caruso (like its other brand called Raffaele Caruso.)

It’s very nicely made, comfortable to wear, and very current it its styling. Fabric choices are beautiful.

It’s just a shame that this brand is still confidential and not widely distributed. Perhaps Caruso doesn’t want to be too aggressive in competing directly with the brands that it makes for…

By Hugo Jacomet :

On a related note, the name “Maco” comes from MA.CO, which stands for Manifattura Confezioni–the name of the company before it changed its name to Raffaele Caruso Spa.

This little detail would make Maco the original Caruso brand. Unfortunately, unless you plan a trip close to Parma or other nearby outlets, chances are that you won’t come across a Maco suit.

Also note that Pierre Degand in Brussels has developed with Maco a beautiful small line of suits called “Degand by Caruso”, priced around 1000€…

++ : Great value for money, great styling, quality of construct, and fabric choices.

- – : Difficult to find outside Soragna (Parma).

MELINDA GLOSS

The new generation of the “Made In France”

From 600 to 1000€

http://www.melindagloss.com/fr/

By Benoit Wojtenka (Bonnegueule.fr)

Founded in 2008, Melinda Gloss has always had some interesting suit collections, even though you wouldn’t notice right away by glancing at various lookbooks.

The two founders of the brand have a practically obsessive tendency to look for that little thing that will make the difference. The materials and fabrics are varied, of good taste, and always offer an interesting little twist.

Rémi is the creative mind behind the brand. A passionate man always toiling away to improve his jacket collection. Year after year, his style evolves – the cuts change, the shoulder becomes more comfortable, the lapels drape more gracefully … each passing seasons brings its lot of improvement.

In addition to the classic selection of colors (the eternal shades of blue and grey), Melinda Gloss offers more daring colors as well. Colors could include a burgundy smoking jacket or a turquoise cotton suit. One of the trademarks of this house is the button selection, which offers such oddities as corozo buttons, alongside such classics as the ever popular horn buttons. Plastic buttons are not an option here.

The products are all made in France (in Limoges). The jackets are all half-canvassed, and all the inner materials such as the padding or the canvas are also made in France.

The cuts are modern, and as such, all jackets and trousers can be worn mismatched. A Melinda Gloss jacket always goes very well with a pair of denims or chinos.

A fine and modern alternative that is fully “Made In France”…of good taste with nice fabrics and sold at a reasonable price.

RING JACKET

Fantastic value (and style) for money

from 600 to 1000€

http://www.ringjacket.co.jp

By Paul F :

Ring Jacket is a brand I discovered when I first stepped into the Armoury Shop in Hong Kong, a well-known place among our community.

The cut is definitely modern without ever feeling “fashionable”. The fabrics are very nice with interesting patterns. The suits and jackets are fully canvassed and the finishing touches are more than decent, all for a relatively low price.

So I bought one, and I fell in love with the generous lapels! Not all models feature wide lapels though, so proponents of conservative style need not worry. I then bought a few more suits in Japan where RJ is actually from, at prices significantly lower, between about 700 and 800€, which is very reasonable given the manufacturing quality and the fabulous fabrics.

This is undeniably one of my favorite brands as far as value for money goes. Sizes run from EU 42 to 56, so most men should find something that fits them. I like the salesmen, composed of truly passionate people, despite the staff sporting super-short trousers, which I confess that I don’t like…

At RJ, you’d typically find navy suits, double breasted camel hair coats and the now famous “Creamy Waffle jacket” ; do check the latter yourself is you can, as I’d be absolutely unable to describe the unique feel of this fabric.

The main issue that remains is the European distribution of the brand: that is, there is none. Khakis of Carmel, a US based retailer started a partnership with Ring Jacket, but at a fairly higher price that what you’d pay in Asia–but hey, they’ve got to pay those import taxes right … ?

BROOKS BROTHERS

Brooks still provides decent suits at decent prices

From 600 to 1200€

http://www.brooksbrothers.com

By G. Bruce Boyer :

Brooks Brothers, founded in 1818, is the oldest retail store in the USA. and the first to specialize in readywear clothing for men.

It became the bastion of traditional clothing for the Eastern Establishment style of business dress in the 19th century, and into the 20th Century it became known as the WASP Ivy Style store of choice. In the 1950s it gained popularity as the center of the “Madison Avenue – Gray Flannel – Campus” style of dress in the USA, and favorably copied abroad. Ironically it was just after WW II that the Brooks family finally sold the firm (1946).

The following years were difficult, as Brooks went from one owner to another, each one seemingly worse than the former. Finally the store was bought by the Italians in 2001, and has been making a great effort to re-define itself with an “International Preppy” design approach, particularly catering to the young professional man.

There seems to be an attempt to both return to the 1950s roots with an emphasis on good quality, reasonably priced oxford button down shirts and classic neckwear and other accessories, but also to provide a number of newer, streamlined silhouettes which drift very far afiled from the Ivy styling in the tailored clothing.

It can be said, however, that Brooks remains true to its roots by providing decent clothing at a decent price for a large number of men.

Par Hugo Jacomet :

I would advise favoring the “Made in Italy” line, by far the most interesting in terms of quality of construct.

HACKETT

Spearheading accessible British style

From 600 to 1400€

http://www.hackett.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

Founded in 1979 by Sir Jeremy Hackett from what was originally a simple thrift shop, Hackett became in the 90′s one of the major advocates for affordable British styled suits.

Hackett’s collections were, until the middle of the 2000s, known for playing with the greatest symbols of “Britishness” with flair, gusto, and even some humor (like their logo, a bowl hat and two umbrellas. Can you get much more British than that ?)

Sold by Richemont to the Torreal group (a Spanish investment fund) in 2005, Hackett seems to have lost a bit of its fire since a few years, with products that lack the personality of what the brand used to make – even though the number of shops around the world has dramatically increased.

But despite having lost some of the flamboyance that made its charm (and success), Hackett remains a very safe choice in its price range.

++ : Good value for money, lots of choices, some particularly nice pieces to handpick each season for the sharp eye.

- – : Not as charming as it once was, quality of construct could be better.

PORTS 1961

Clean & clear cut

From 800 to 2000€

http://ports1961.com

By Sonya Glyn Nicholson :

With 95 percent of all garments made in Italy by whom Ports describes as “artisanal craftsmen”, the Ports 1961 menswear collection is emerging as an interesting choice for a RTW suit for the man who likes a traditional look with modern flair. Expect clean, if not pristine line cuts which form a classic silhouette

Ports seems to get it right with a correct collar fit, and medium-width lapels with an attractive lapel notch. But there’s more…natural shoulders that appear tailored, a high button-stance, and a jacket length that is only slightly short in front–however the back of the jacket is cut noticeably short on some models, in the manner of the Pop Suit, which could cause a first-time suit owner to newly discover his buttocks.

Trousers are streamlined, but not obnoxiously slim and the trouser waist cut is set close the natural waistline. The silhouette is slimming with gradual waist suppression done in good taste. Overall, a serious work. It would be a prudent to say that the designers and manufacturers at Ports have some exposure to proper tailoring.

Originating in Toronto, but now with a flagship store on the famed rue du Faubourg-Saint Honoré where the men’s collection was added in 2012, this young Canadian house seems to succeed where others have failed–creating a suit that is both futuristic and timeless. Fabrics meanwhile, include Loro Piana. It’s not difficult to find something nice to say about this collection. Suits are superb and clean cut with a fit configured for the athletic, with a particularly nice chest drape on the double-breasted ensemble. A great discovery to follow.

++ : Extremely clean silhouettes, gorgeous double-breasted suits.

- – : The back-cut of the jacket may be too short for the Non-Pop Suit lover. What a pity…

BOGLIOLI

Life without structures

From 850 to 1500€

http://www.boglioli.it

By Hugo Jacomet :

The ultra-light sports jacket specialist.

The Boglioli brothers rose to fame in the past few years with their line of jackets, which feel almost closer to a cardigan than they do to a suit jacket. The comfort is unparalleled, as such you really have to try it to believe it.

The fabrics are as light as it gets, the jackets have absolutely no structure, and the cloth has a superb Italian feel to it. A must-have for anyone who travels a lot, or has a party to attend by the seaside in summer.

Note that the Boglioli brothers left the company last year, and recently launched a new brand – GIGI – whose first products look extremely promising (soon available at Degand in Brussels). To be continued …

++ : As comfortable as comfortable gets, truly stylish casual chic.

- – : Can be expensive.

LARDINI

Quality Italian suits at an affordable price

From 850 to 1600€

http://www.lardini.it

By Hugo Jacomet :

Less well-known than most of its competitors, Lardini is nonetheless one of the greatest manufacturers of quality Italian suits, with an average output of 1600 suits a day.

This family-owned factory makes suits for such famous names as Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo and Versace, no less. They also sell their own range of suits of very fair quality with nice Italian flair and a good quality of construct, complete with a coherent price tag.

A good, serious, Italian brand.

++ : Serious products, well assembled, with a plain (but still Italian) style.

- – : Almost too plain sometimes.

TIMOTHY EVEREST

Quality RTW with a twist

From 900 to 1500€

http://timothyeverest.co.uk/

By Hugo Jacomet :

Timothy Everest has offered since a few years several small RTW collections drawn up by the man himself and made in Portugal, England, and even Japan (where Timothy Everest products sell quite well).

The lines are sometimes daring (without going over the top), the fabrics are of good quality, and the half-canvassed construct is well-made.

A fine line of “British with a twist”, which we love at PG.

++ : The suits are well made, with the very British flair that made the house famous.

- – : Very small collections with limited choices.

RICHARD JAMES

Creativity and quality

From 900 to 1500€

https://www.richardjames.co.uk/

By Hugo Jacomet :

Richard James is undeniably one of the leaders of the new establishment on the Row, and one of those who blurred the lines between bespoke tailoring and quality ready-to-wear, while brimming with quality.

Now distributed internationally (in such places as Barneys in New York and Harrods in London), the products of RJ are made in Italy with very contemporary cuts and a creative choice of colors that you rarely see anywhere – from old pink to pale blue and purple, as illustrated above.

A house we like a lot here at PG, for the quality of its products, the cohesive communication strategy it employs (always very creative without being vulgar), and the undeniable style of its last Spring / Summer collections, which has some of the most refreshing pieces we’ve seen in a while.

++ : A very personal style that gets better and better with each passing collections. Lots of flair.

- – : Short collections. Sometimes a lack of choice.

RICHARD ANDERSON

Savile Row’s rising star

From 900 to 1800€

http://www.richardandersonltd.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

It’s been two years since “Young Richard” himself draws and offers his very own collection of classic suits, made in Italy.

All the basics of men’s style are respected in his collections, which are available in a selection of discreet fabrics that always fit the product very well. The half-canvassing is also of good quality.

Richard Anderson’s RTW is quite simply a true quality product, only available (to this day) at N°13 Savile Row, or via the house’s website.

Never has a RTW brand been so poorly served by its marketing material and ads. Don’t be fooled by their sleek & trendy pictures in fashion magazines, or their faux-hip boutiques in bad locations such as airport terminals: Pal Zileri actually makes an amazing suit, but you have to try it first to understand why, as the tailoring skills are not visible through the brand’s storytelling.

For example, PZ is one of the few RTW brands to make trousers that are barely canvassed at the waistline, which is much more comfortable to wear than the stiff waistlines of most RTW trousers. The construction of their jackets is so light you barely feel it on you, and yet their jackets have structure and hold up well to wear.

PZ’s choice of fabrics is always differentiating in subtle ways, and so remains original yet wearable. The way a RTW brand chooses its fabrics is often telling: some brands just choose expensive fabrics that don’t actually look good, whereas Pal Zileri’s fabric choices are not the from most luxurious bunches, but are always very carefully curated and are interesting both visually and to the hand. Obviously, this brand has some people who know what they are doing in terms of hardcore tailoring choices.

Too bad that part of the brand’s storytelling gets no airtime, the real value proposition lay there.

++ : Great tailoring, styling, fabrics and prices.

- – : The marketing is completely wrong-headed compared to the underlying value proposition of the brand .

PAUL STUART

Mid Atlantic East-Coast flair

From 1100 to 1800€

http://www.paulstuart.com

By G. Bruce Boyer :

Paul Stuart is both more upscale in design and price than Brooks. The firm’s design philosophy is based on a fashion approach to traditional business and sports wear.

More mid-Atlantic than Eastern Establishment, more color, and with a slightly “sharper” look in silhouette to the tailored clothes, Paul Stuart has always moved slightly toward the fashionable end of the traditional spectrum. The firm’s recent addition a few years ago of a new department — called the Phineas Cole Collection — has been a very upscale version of their offerings in both price and design. The Phineas Cole line is definitely for the younger man who is something of a dandy, and unafraid of a bolder, more individualistic approach.

Over the past several years both the classic Paul Stuart and the newer Phineas Cole offerings have taken on a pronounced Italian – British amalgam in which many of the top quality fabrics are British, the colors Italian, and the styling a hybrid of both.

The store continues to appeal to the Wall Street financier, well-dressed and a bit brash lawyers, and the slightly more high wattage corporate heads.

++ : Excellent Italian/British flair, Phineas Cole line is full of personality. A serious product.

- – : Still hard to come by – only three stores (New York & Chicago) and a few selected points of sale in Japan.

CARUSO

The Volkswagen group of menswear

From 1100 to 3000€

http://www.carusomenswear.com

By Dirnelli :

Volkswagen is Audi and Porsche too — but only car nuts know or care about this.

Likewise, Caruso is THE mass-producer of high quality suits around the world. It is known to manufacture for the all the best menswear brands globally , but the Caruso name flies under the radar as far as most consumers are aware. You may think that you are buying different suits made in different places, just because the outside brand label is different, but 7 times out of 10, you’re just buying a Caruso suit styled differently, to match each brand’s house style (you can verify this by looking for the trademark Caruso technical label, always the same, inside the jacket pocket).

It’s impressive that they have succeeded in maintaining such quality standards, even as demand and output have grown. No other garment maker has been able to meet that challenge so far in the history of ready-to-wear — it’s worth tipping our hat to Caruso on that score alone.

++ : Excellent value. The suits are so well made that even a size up or down your regular size might seem to fit you perfectly.

- – : A Caruso suit retails for 1 to 4 times its price depending on the brand who sells it.

By Paul F :

Finally a chance to talk about this wonderful brand that all elegant men should know about. But truth is very few people have heard of it.

For the anecdote, I recall talking about Caruso during a golf tournament and here is what my competitor told me (think 40 something, snobbish voice and attitude, yellow corduroy pants with a green sweater to mimic the club’s colors):

“But my dear Paul, what is Caruso? I never heard of it and I know a great deal about suits. I only wear Smalto. Ready-to-wear though because the time they take for a made-to-measure order is annoying”.

Funny thing to say (still makes me smile to this day)…because Caruso is actually making the ready to wear collection of Smalto. They also do Cifonelli’s and Hartwood’s. This is clearly one of the best makers out there.

However, not all Caruso suits are made equal – there are different lines. But that being said, I never came across a Caruso suit that disappointed me. The fully canvassed line is great and quite light too, with very decent finishing touches and usually outstanding fit. RTW prices range from 1000€ to 3000€. Some retailers can get a bit greedy with the margin, but do remember that different lines also mean more options.

I still recall vividly a Smalto double-breasted cashmere coat that was simply outstanding. It was made by Caruso, and fortunately not in my size, as its asking price was not what I would have called reasonable for me at the time…

HARTWOOD

A great French brand that deserves more attention

From 1200 to 1800€

http://www.hartwoodparis.com

By Dirnelli :

Hartwood is another wonderful Caruso-made suit, but presents even greater value for money, as the Hartwood brand is not global enough to warrant a hefty price premium.

In fact, Hartwood may be one of the least expensive Caruso suits available on the market. That alone is worth some attention. Furthermore, Hartwood uses only Loro Piana for all its fabric choices, for better or for worse , as Loro Piana fabrics tend to be delicate (But a RTW brand could do a lot worse than have its entire collections made solely from Loro Piana fabrics, so we will not fault them there).

Hartwood is already well-appreciated by suit connoisseurs in France, but the brand probably now deserves more international visibility as the collections are always very appealing season after season.

++ : The least expensive Caruso suit on the market; handmade Milanese buttonhole on all suits.

- – : Loro Piana fabrics exclusively, which can be delicate at times.

RALPH LAUREN

Storybook Stuff

From 1200 to 1600€ (Black Label), 4000€ + (Purple Label)

http://www.ralphlauren.com

By Sonya Glyn Nicholson :

With a signature Gatsby style that is easy to recognize, the past few years have seen Ralph Lauren Purple Label morph into suiting eye-candy, with a toned down but still sharply spiced 2014 collection.

While the less costly Black Label (BL) gets its fair share of attention, a portion of the BL line is an unfortunate monochromatic, with a lighter grade fabric and a trim fit. The bright spot for BL includes their Italian cut with wider shoulders and roped sleeves that yields a traditional silhouette. Both the Black and Purple labels earn credit for a crafting a more defined shoulder than most American brands.

The Purple Label, often made of robust cashmere and silk and made by Caruso in Italy, steps up the elegance factor with finer fabrics and a more refined silhouette. A lot of hand-stitching is worked into the RTW line, making it one of the more impressive RTW choices out there. And, while you may not know many men who own a Ralph Lauren Purple Label Suit, few can deny that these suits are aesthetically lovely and that the Purple Label line itself amps up the overall image of Ralph Lauren.

The “look” of the Purple Label suit has been so well publicized both online and in magazine spreads, that few other brands are so readily recognized by a simple glance of a suiting ensemble. Buying a PL suit requires a certain eye to avoid appearing as if you’ve undressed the window mannequin to clothe yourself or snatched the whole stockroom showcase.

Regarding the 3rd-tier Polo Ralph Lauren blue label–Dirnelli likes the half-canvassed Garrison made by Corneliani, and identifies the suit as being one of his better finds.

It seems RL has recognized that their garments may be too recognizable, and the latest Purple Label 2014 offering has been varied to include a modern deco style and the fine looking Drake Suit—which has a circa-1800 flair, complete with waistcoat. The cost for an odd jacket (with the exception of the more affordable linen jacket) will run around $4,000 U.S. dollars, with a suit costing $5,000+. Steep pricing for those who care about cost…but the price alone doesn’t stop anyone from looking and admiring the work of Ralph Lauren.

We like the Italian-cut BL Twill Wool Suit (Item #326136) retailing around $2,000 with a close silhouette, high notch, double vents, pick-stitching and flat-front trousers with adjustable straps. Another option is the Black Label tuxedo at $1,700, but double-check the tuxedo jacket shoulder line from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder to ensure it is rumple-free and constructed to your standards.

++ : A safe bet. Nice silhouette including lots of hand finishing with a quality look and feel.

- – : Outrageous prices, product is at times too recognizable.

CANALI

The unsung hero of menswear

From 1200 to 1800€

http://www.canali.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

For those of you who read French, a PG reader sent us a contribution on Canali a few years back : CANALI PG.

By Dirnelli :

Why doesn’t this brand get the internet buzz it deserves?

The Canali suit meets every requirement of the tailoring enthusiast: full canvassing, great cuts and superb fabric choices (although often quite delicate.) Granted, it’s a mass-produced garment. But for something mass-produced to feel this nice when you wear it, it just proves that ’Made in Italy’ still stands for something today: quality RTW. Canali is one of the few brands to A) own its factory, and B) to use the factory exclusively for its own collections.

Canali could certainly earn additional income if they wanted to use their factory to make suits for other luxury brands — as could most other Italian suit brands that own factories — but instead Canali is exclusive in everything they do, even down to some fabrics that are woven solely for Canali . As a result, the wearing sensation of a Canali suit is unique, ranking up there with the best of the handmade Italian suit brands.

+ + : A very elegant, contemporary, well-made and comfortable suit.

- – : Mostly delicate fabrics.

CORNELIANI

Good quality suits, widely distributed

From 1200 to 1800€

http://www.corneliani.com

By Dirnelli :

In the same price range, Corneliani and Canali have many points in common: ownership of their own factory, current Italian styling, many handmade steps and great comfort. The main difference between Canali and Corneliani is that Corneliani gets more internet hype , and that they make suits for others, e.g., Ralph Lauren.

Also, Corneliani has some fabric choices that are a bit more “nouveau riche”, unfortunately.

Still a good option in this price range however.

++ : Great suits with many steps made by hand.

- – : Some unfortunate fabric choices at times.

HUSBANDS

A Parisian nugget

From 1350 to 1700€

http://www.husbands-paris.com

By Greg Jacomet :

For those of you who read French, here is a review we posted about a year back : HUSBANDS PAR PG.

By Paul F :

A young French house producing beautiful suits made in Italy, in top-shelf fabrics with a modern cut: Finally!

That was my first thought when I read a Parisian Gentleman article praising this (small, for now at least…) brand. I’m like a bee, I like to wander and discover new things, especially when for once, they don’t end with an “i” (Brioni, Canali, Corneliani, Pal Zileri, etc.). I couldn’t help it, so I payed them a visit.

Nicolas, the owner and founder, is not the son of a tailor or a cutter; he’s a man who dropped his former job to pursue his dream and passion for all things sartorial – someone with the very honest desire to see more well-dressed men out there. But I think I lost my train of thought, where was I…?

Ah, Yes! Exceptional fabrics (Fox Brothers that usually cost a fortune), handmade milanese buttonholes done by Jessica de Hody, and cuts that fit me like a glove immediately. I can honestly say I spent a lot of time at the little Parisian shop, seeing as I wear a EU 44-46, which makes it a hassle to find a decent RTW option that fits me. But Husbands has me covered.

The house doesn’t do seasonal collections, as Nicolas firmly believes in the notion of timeless elegance. His selection is spot-on though : a double-breasted wool and cashmere overcoat, a blue fresco suit, a navy flannel suit with chalk stripes, a gun club tweed sport coat, a three-piece linen suit for summer etc. I could spend a fortune here, especially considering that the prices, averaging at 1350€, are very reasonable in regard to the overall quality Husbands has to offer.

Eternal knights of British elegance, beware! You might step on slimmer fits and narrower hems, but nothing that should prevent you from considering this house.

RAVAZZOLO

An unsung hero of Italian tailoring

from 1550 to 2350€

http://www.ravazzolo.com

By Dirnelli :

Nobody on the internet buzzes about this great RTW brand, another unsung hero of Italian suit making.

The price is steep but the product is very nice, and is recognized for its quality by true connoisseurs.

No frills, very classic, almost to the point of being sterile. Always original fabric choices, which can be hit or miss.

Surprising to see such disparity, sometimes it almost seems as if they picked their fabrics at random.

++ : Classic, well-made, no mistakes in styling or tailoring.

- – : Fabrics choices can be completely wrong sometimes.

CIFONELLI

Beautiful, but little to do with the legendary bespoke house cut

From 1850 to 2500€

http://www.cifonelli.com

By Dirnelli :

Cifonelli offers a superb RTW line made by Caruso, using great fabrics, made to the highest standards of Caruso production, labelled ‘Gold Finish’. Perhaps Cifonelli’s RTW line is the ideal compromise for penurious sartorialists who are not ready to make the jump to Cifonelli bespoke.

The RTW line offers great cuts, great construction, and great value-for-money (especially during sales.) However, be aware that the style and cut of the RTW line is different from Cifonelli bespoke.

+ + : A great way to dip your toes in the Cifonelli waters without breaking your piggy bank.

- – : The RTW style is different from the bespoke cut.

FRANCESCO SMALTO

A great name of Parisian bespoke and ready-to-wear

From 1850 to 2800 €

http://www.smalto.com

By Hugo Jacomet :

Unarguably one of the greatest names in luxury RTW – whose founder and former owner was one of the few master tailors to successfully make the transition between traditional bespoke and quality RTW as soon as the 60′s ended.

With a RTW line made at Caruso, a Smalto suit is always a safe bet. The fit and drape are almost always spot on, and the suits can be made to have a very close fit. A fine work that manages to stay relevant year after year (even if some fabric choices are questionable).

The famous Smalto notch, available on Smalto’s RTW suits is a direct heir to the legendary Camps notch (Francesco Smalto was Camps’ disciple), and one of the French tailoring house’s most famous trademark. Every aficionado should own a suit with one such notch.

By Dirnelli :

The fishmouth lapel is a trademark of Parisian bespoke tailoring, but it is extremely uncommon to find it in RTW suits.

Thankfully , Smalto offers a RTW model that has this classic styling (it’s even its most famous signature feature). This fact alone makes their RTW line a go to destination for anyone interested in traditional French tailoring.

The RTW suits are Caruso-made, so no-nonsense, although curiously they are more padded and structured than what Caruso does for most other brands.

Some of Smalto’s RTW fabric choices are questionable however ( e.g. too many shiny fabrics) . The trademark 5-button cuff takes some time getting used to (Tom Ford does it too), but Smalto’s unique square buttons on blazers are a stroke of genius — you have to see it to believe it, because no one would ever expect square buttons to actually look nice.

Hats off to the superb handmade Milanese by default on all suits, as many luxury RTW brands don’t offer this detail, mysteriously.