Brand new magneto flywheel, flywheel puller, and gasket

All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part

Magneto Flywheel Rotor

RMSTATOR is offering a new replacement flywheel with stronger magnets for your Suzuki and Kawasaki, this flywheel can be used as a direct replacement to the OEM.

We suggest combining it to our 100 or 200 watt stator as it will run the lights better in the lower rpm's.

Flywheel Puller

Indispensable tool to remove magneto flywheels without causing damage

M50 x 1.5 right hand internal thread

The quality exceeds the OEM equipment

PLEASE CHECK IF YOUR MAKE/MODEL IS COMPATIBLE IN THE "ALSO FITS" TAB BEFORE BUYING

What is improved about the RM11502 flywheel?

2002-2007 Suzuki Eiger 400 and 2003-2008 Arctic Cat 400 ATVs are plagued with problems on the original flywheels. The additives in the motor oil were dissolving the epoxy that holds the magnets in the flywheel, causing them to detach and scatter throughout the engine.

EXPOSED EPOXY DETACHED MAGNET

The bad news is that by the time the problem occurred, no manufacturer would provide warranty repairs.

The good news is that RMSTATOR has manufactured a redesigned flywheel where the magnets are sealed in the flywheel, which reinforces the epoxy and prevents them from detaching. This new flywheel configuration corrects the problem permanently.

Dealership estimates to repair this failure are over $500 in parts alone. RMSTATOR offers you a high quality replacement part that corrects the problem for half the price. The RM11502 flywheel is not only a cost effective way to replace your failed Suzuki or Arctic Cat flywheel, but a great investment when replaced before the failure occurs.

Before attempting to start your vehicle adjusting the air gap is necessary.
Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.

Flywheel Puller

Tips on removing a power sport vehicle flywheel / rotor:

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

We can give you two simple tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. But how do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier. Remember: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;

Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;

Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.

Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!

Brand new magneto flywheel, flywheel puller, and gasket

All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part

Magneto Flywheel Rotor

RMSTATOR is offering a new replacement flywheel with stronger magnets for your Suzuki and Kawasaki, this flywheel can be used as a direct replacement to the OEM.

We suggest combining it to our 100 or 200 watt stator as it will run the lights better in the lower rpm's.

Flywheel Puller

Indispensable tool to remove magneto flywheels without causing damage

M50 x 1.5 right hand internal thread

The quality exceeds the OEM equipment

PLEASE CHECK IF YOUR MAKE/MODEL IS COMPATIBLE IN THE "ALSO FITS" TAB BEFORE BUYING

What is improved about the RM11502 flywheel?

2002-2007 Suzuki Eiger 400 and 2003-2008 Arctic Cat 400 ATVs are plagued with problems on the original flywheels. The additives in the motor oil were dissolving the epoxy that holds the magnets in the flywheel, causing them to detach and scatter throughout the engine.

EXPOSED EPOXY DETACHED MAGNET

The bad news is that by the time the problem occurred, no manufacturer would provide warranty repairs.

The good news is that RMSTATOR has manufactured a redesigned flywheel where the magnets are sealed in the flywheel, which reinforces the epoxy and prevents them from detaching. This new flywheel configuration corrects the problem permanently.

Dealership estimates to repair this failure are over $500 in parts alone. RMSTATOR offers you a high quality replacement part that corrects the problem for half the price. The RM11502 flywheel is not only a cost effective way to replace your failed Suzuki or Arctic Cat flywheel, but a great investment when replaced before the failure occurs.

Installation instructions

Flywheel

Before attempting to start your vehicle adjusting the air gap is necessary.
Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.

Flywheel Puller

Tips on removing a power sport vehicle flywheel / rotor:

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

We can give you two simple tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. But how do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier. Remember: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;

Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;

Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.

Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!