Weed control window still open

Weed control can still be achieved after a frost if no more than 40% of the original leaf tissue is damaged, although herbicide should be applied at the higher end of recommended rates. Source: Clark Brenzil

The onset of lower temperatures and shortened days in the fall trigger perennials such as Canada thistle, dandelion and quack grass to start moving sugars to below-ground tissues. Winter annuals and biennial are also doing this, but they don’t need a temperature trigger. Spraying these weeds in fall takes advantage of this downward flow into the below ground buds on the crown or creeping roots of perennials, providing better control for next year.

Does herbicide work better after a frost? No. While cooler temperatures with daytime highs in the mid to high teens does increase movement of sugar, and with it glyphosate, to the roots of perennial weeds like Canada thistle, frost does not enhance that movement further. In fact, research reports that a light frost following a week or more of “hardening” at alternating 15 C and 5 C temperatures had no effect on movement of glyphosate or control of Canada thistle. However, while frost doesn’t improve control it also may not necessarily reduce control if enough healthy tissue remains to allow sufficient uptake of the herbicide.

Spraying after a frost. Killing frost for weeds is hard to define since it is influenced by so many factors. Different plants have different inherent tolerance to frost. For example a stinkweed plant can germinate in fall and survive the winter to grow the following year whereas a wild mustard plant will not. Weather preceding the frost may also affect frost tolerance. A Canada thistle plant that has little exposure to cooler temperatures may be susceptible to a frost of as little as 3 or 4 C, whereas a plant that has gradually acclimatized to cooler conditions and progressively deeper frosts may survive a frost of 10 C or more. This is why it is critical to continually check the condition of leaf tissues before filling the sprayer.

If weeds are green and the leaf tissue is still relatively pliable, growers may still have an opportunity to control the perennial weeds with glyphosate. To determine whether it is worth spraying after a frost, scout the field and check the amount of damage on the leaves. Control can still be obtained if no more than 40% of the original leaf tissue is damaged. Because the amount of leaf area after harvest, even with several weeks of regrowth, is only one third of what was there before harvest at best, using the same amount of glyphosate as in a pre-harvest application will not be effective. In reverse proportion to the leaf area, at least three times the rate used at the pre-harvest timing will be needed to get the same level of glyphosate into the plant.

When scouting to determine the value of post harvest weed control:
—Assess if there is a significant population of weeds to warrant a spray, and whether they are annuals, winter annuals or perennials? Fall is a good time to hit perennials, biennials and winter annuals, and it can be worthwhile spraying annuals if it looks like they’ll produce mature seeds before freeze up. If annuals have already set seed, it may be better to save the burnoff for next spring when those seeds emerge.
—Are weeds actively growing?
—Is frost damage less than 40% of the leaf tissue?

If these conditions exist, then a fall herbicide treatment may be of benefit.

Tip: Even though cool weather may trigger perennials to start moving sugars downward, you still want to apply herbicides on sunny and warm days for best results. Click here for more fall weed control tips.

Sign Up

Let us help you get the most relevant info by telling us where you're from and what you do.

Email Address

Postal Codeor Zip Code For Residents of North America.

Profession

Grower

Agronomist

Media

Agri-retailer

Other

We have three optional questions to help give you the most valuable information.

How many total crop acres have you farmed this year?

Percentage of total annual crop acres planted to canola each year?

How many years have you been growing canola?

In your dealings with farmers approximately how many acres of canola would you influence in a year?