During a major project there is nothing like landmark moments. Here is one of those moments. I have unmounted the pencil sharpener from the kitchen counter.

You are looking at the only dark wood in the house. I was wanting the aged bar counter look. I have no idea what species an old bar would have been constructed from. I have decided to use Maple. I will be putting a few layers of wood wax that should assist in longevity.

If used on a residential home the warranty would be 50 years. (As a kitchen counter? I’m guessing none.) . I think waxed maple should distress and age nice.

Contact cement was used to secure the boards in place. I spread a moderate layer on both the boards and the base. After the cement layers became ‘sticky’ the maple was pressed and locked together. After setting for a few hot days (it has been hovering around 100 here in Southern Idaho) the fumes have finally cleared and the planks are secure. I should be able to resume working inside the house again.

I still have to trim around the edges and sing, but this is my moment. I have decided on Poplar to match the fireplace mantle.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/08/04/goodby-pencil-sharpener/feed/0IMG_20170801_081924837idahomyronIMG_20170801_081924837IMG_20170801_131732342IMG_20170801_133718185Vents for the air handlerhttps://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/30/vents-for-the-air-handler/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/30/vents-for-the-air-handler/#respondSun, 30 Jul 2017 00:04:37 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=924Continue reading →]]>After installing a traditional vent in the bathroom ceiling for venting I decided I did not like the look. All this custom wood work did not need to be distracted by a rectangle in the ceiling.

Now the bathroom is vented by pulling air through holes in the shower curtain rod. This allowed be to avoid making more holes in the walls/ceiling.

Fresh air can be pulled into the house by opening a gate valve located in the upper storage area. (Like the one under the sink but smaller.). When open air can be drawn from under the house through 2″ tubing and through a filter. There is an outlet vent as well in case windows have not been opened. (In the cabinet near the outside door with the battery.)

intake vent

The main intake vent (the owl) is located near the floor and door where the air should be the coldest in heating weather. The copper pipes on the ceiling and in the loft are also intakes but move a smaller volume of air.

The outlets are near the ceiling behind the roosters.

The Roosters (and owl) were cast-iron trivets designed for hot pans to sit upon. It took a while by I was able to grind the feet off then drill screw holes (see the eye?) so they could be fastened flush to the walls.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/30/vents-for-the-air-handler/feed/0idahomyronIMG_20170727_175604546IMG_20170727_175230216Cleaning up the cabinetryhttps://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/cleaning-up-the-cabinetry/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/cleaning-up-the-cabinetry/#respondSat, 29 Jul 2017 23:43:02 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=900Continue reading →]]>Yesterday was about cabinets and a few details.

Turning these:

into this.

Pine door.

Then I tidied up under the kitchen cabinet. I wanted to hide the 4inch venting hose and the OSB that was on the wall before the cabinet was installed. There is still a little to go, but you get the idea.

I also managed to get the toe-kick installed on the front. Now dropped items cannot roll into the abyss.

Toe kick under kitchen sink.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/cleaning-up-the-cabinetry/feed/0idahomyronIMG_20170728_142551398IMG_20170728_142801280Ouchhttps://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/28/ouch/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/28/ouch/#respondFri, 28 Jul 2017 02:13:32 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/28/ouch/Continue reading →]]>Just a short note on how painful it is getting spray foam out of your hair. It has been since childhood so I don’t remember all that well, but I think this was worse than gum. (And I have less hair for it to stick to.)

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/28/ouch/feed/0idahomyronCopper Shower Curtain Rodhttps://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/25/copper-shower-curtain-rod/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/25/copper-shower-curtain-rod/#commentsTue, 25 Jul 2017 00:39:33 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=879Continue reading →]]>I’ll just get it out there: Lead-Free Solder is horrible to work with! I miss my old friend lead.

After taking numerous measurements and drawing three designs, I built number four. The first layout was done on top of the bathtub. Now I had to do is figure out where I could ingress into the ceiling in order to mount it. I had to ensure I was not hitting any of the rafters. I don’t believe 5/8″ holes add to the strength so I wanted to miss them.

Once I soldered the fittings together (out in the carport) I cleaned up and re-sanded the copper best I could. Here are before the cleanup and now mounted onto the ceiling.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/25/copper-shower-curtain-rod/feed/1IMG_20170724_170923644idahomyronTiny goes on a diethttps://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/08/tiny-goes-on-a-diet/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/08/tiny-goes-on-a-diet/#respondSat, 08 Jul 2017 21:38:59 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=813Continue reading →]]>Chief Pinkstaff used to drill into us: “Prior proper planning prevents poor performance.” I have not seen the man since 1992, but today those words popped into my head again. I was laying on my side under Tiny sawing off 84 pounds of steel. A task that would have been much easier when I purchased the trailer. (You know, before the floor and walls were attached.)

This is when the rack should have come off.

I can only say good things about the Sawzall and battery I used to do the work. The blades are another story. After four blades (the 5th one is still usable) the battery still has nearly a full charge. Finally a battery worth attaching to a reciprocating saw.

Don’t forget your safety glasses. Steel goes everywhere.

The steel in question is (was?) the rail assembly designed to hold the loading ramps under the trailer. The ramps have been consumed by the Lemon Basil in the garden (Out of sight…). I only see them in the winter when the leaves have fallen off the plants.

Here is the removed rail assembly along with some cut shots:

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/08/tiny-goes-on-a-diet/feed/0IMG_20170708_143808633idahomyronBack at the beginning...IMG_20170708_143639112IMG_20170708_143729363IMG_20170708_143808633Now for a beverage…https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/07/789/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/07/789/#respondFri, 07 Jul 2017 02:16:23 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=789Continue reading →]]>After finishing up the tail and brake lights I was able to pull the wire for the refrigerator inverter. Because I’m designing to be off-grid/dry camp, I need the refrigerator to run on the 12 volt system and not 120 volt grid power. A dedicated 750 watt inverter is now mounted under the ridge in the storage area. This allows lots of cooling air as well as keeps the large wires out of sight.

The inverter positive voltage comes from a 6 gauge stranded conductor tied directly to the deep-cell battery. While running the fridge only consumes about 140 watt, but the startup surge (from the inductive nature of the compressor) can be over 400 watts. The non-sinewave AC also contributes to a little efficiency loss. But, I cannot justify a true sine-wave inverter for a $150 fridge.

The inverter ground (negative) is bolted to the frame using the correct connector. It took quite a bit of sanding to get to the steel of the frame. A 1/4 bolt with nylon lock nut was then used to tie the connector to the frame. The battery negative has also been tied to the frame in the same manner. (Matching the brake battery configuration although the brake battery is not tied to the interior system at this time.)

Outside temperature was a little over 100 when I finished up. The inside of the house was hovering between 91 and 94 depending which thermometer you looked at. Within an hour the fridge was down into the 40’s.

‘Out’ is actually inside of the fridge.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/07/789/feed/0idahomyronIMG_20170706_162818592IMG_20170706_163310441IMG_20170706_164515416Lost notes and a little luck.https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/05/lost-notes-and-a-little-luck/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/05/lost-notes-and-a-little-luck/#respondWed, 05 Jul 2017 03:02:56 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=723Continue reading →]]>I did the physical install of the tail lights a long time ago. The wiring was all routed to a central location so I could tie into the existing trailer lights. But I lost the notes. And the wires have been dangling from the trailer so long the sharpie had faded. Now I have five wires and no idea what they do.

I spent what seemed like hours with my multimeter ensuring I know what wire did what. And…that it did nothing else unexpected. This last but was due to the fact I have an extra wire hanging labeled “Red” that seems to go nowhere and does nothing.

After some research on wiring colors and plug pin-outs I had my diagrams and was ready to splice. But there is not enough slack in any of the factory wires to splice neatly. Then here comes the luck…

Factory provided block.

Near the trailer tongue is a covered box with terminal connectors for each of the six used wires on the 7-pin plug. (It seems reverse was not important enough to wire or provide lights. Considering this was a ‘car’ hauler and the towing vehicle would be visible it makes sense.). Thanks Mirage for keeping things neat and serviceable. I wish other trailers in my life were so organized. (If you are looking, they make quality 10,000# rated trailers right here in Nampa, Idaho USA.)

I measured out four (Brake, running, Drivers Ground, Passenger Ground) lengths of wire and purchased a junction block. this will allow me to avoid wire nuts, tape and loose connections later.

25+ feet of wire x4.

I hope to get the wires connected in the morning while it is still cool. (You know the 60’s.) Today we broke 100 so any time outside needs to be before my work is in the sun.

As a side note: It seems the 500ft spools of wire I purchased were an investment. I have used nearly half of the white and a 1/3rd of the black. I have also used a lot of colored tape to identify wire. Why buy numerous colors when ID’n both ends works.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/05/lost-notes-and-a-little-luck/feed/0IMG_20170704_154558569idahomyronIMG_20170704_154558569IMG_20170704_161057200IMG_20170704_161106035Home Depot (Meridian) is Awesome.https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/home-depot-meridian-is-awsome/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/home-depot-meridian-is-awsome/#respondSun, 02 Jul 2017 23:19:43 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=693Continue reading →]]>So here is a shameless plug for the Home Depot store where nearly all of my supplies come from. The customer support I have received in the lumber department in the last two weeks. I would like to think they treat me good because I have purchased too much from them for my project, but I have seen them treat every customer just like they treat me.

My table saw is only about two feet wide and deep. It is a task to get straight cuts when pushing whole sheets of material through. Twice now the guys have cut my material for me exactly as I requested. Not one or two little cuts. Reducing whole sheets of plywood down to strips for me. And then refusing to charge me for the extra cuts. (Clearly posted as $.50 each after the first two.)

The work in the previous post required 48 feet of 5 inch plywood for the horizontals and then 48 feet of 6.5 inch plywood for the vertical boards. They saved me so much time, made things safer for me. Not to mention the accuracy gained by using a good saw.

five inch plywood backing cedar.

Thank you Home Depot Meridian.

Myron

Disclaimer: As usual nothing was received by be for mentioning Anyone Ever for Anything. While I would love free or discounted stuff I don’t want my opinions swayed so I continue to pay in full.

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]]>https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/home-depot-meridian-is-awsome/feed/0IMG_20170701_161854785idahomyronimg_20170701_161415640.jpgHello? Are you still following me?https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/hello-are-you-still-following-me/
https://idahomyron.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/hello-are-you-still-following-me/#respondSun, 02 Jul 2017 22:57:51 +0000http://idahomyron.wordpress.com/?p=640Continue reading →]]>Sorry about the long gap between posts. No excuse, just doing other things. I spent most of yesterday and today working around the roof.? I forget the technical names for these parts.

First I knocked the wasp nests down from the eve’s. It seems the hotter the location the more they like it. I used an 8′ stick then got organized while they settled down some. No reason to get stung when I have other things to do anyway.

All todays exposed boards are cedar. It was chosen for it’s weather resistance. (Here in southern Idaho cedar can withstand the elements for decades without any treatment. I have fence sections still standing from the 80’s.). All cedar in my house is backed, usually with plywood, for added strength. I the case of the horizontal boards here the plywood is 15/32″ and the cedar is 5/8″. At five locations on each side and three on the front I added some decorative brackets. These are steel and my unofficial testing show they support at least 175# each. I can hang off of them once they were attached. (I don’t suggest this.) A dowel with material could hang there and be used as a shade canopy. They are the same brackets holding the lanterns at the door.

Once the horizontal boards were installed and seemed OK I ‘spray foamed’ the joint between them and the wall to ensure insects and driving rain can not get up in there. I took the time to also close up any ingress gaps that were remaining under the roof. (No-one will ever see in there but why not do it the best I can?)

Spray foam was used to seal any gap that remained between the boards.

Then I began the process of the sides. The cedar is again backed with plywood. This time an additional layer of Liquid Nails Heavy Duty. For fasteners, I used exterior pocket screws. They were choses because of their strength and the ‘pan head’ that can compress against the wood. With the screws are in place these puppies are not going anywhere.

I only have a little over 28 feet of the 48 completed but here is what it looks like so far.