Located in the old Mechanics Bank, a structure erected in the late 1800s and former site of Thommy G's, Birches, which is named after the poem by Robert Frost, takes full advantage of the majestic and commodious high-ceilinged interior. Tables are large and well-spaced, affording diners and servers sufficient room to go about their respective business.

The attractive dark wood bar, which occupies nearly the entire length of the interior wall, is subdued and sophisticated and adorned with deep-fried spaghetti strands dusted with garlic salt. An ingenious munchie. And if reservations are made well in advance, couples, or parties of four seeking a bit more privacy (and who are not prone to claustrophobia), may elect to dine in the former bank's German-engineered steel vault.

But thepiece de resistance, decoratively speaking, is the profusion of magnificent birch trees towering 25 feet above the dining area. Not only do they mitigate the noise level, but they also add a serene, intimate note to what could be a dauntingly sterile and cavernous space.

Despite all the pleasing ornamental amenities, all would be for naught if the cuisine failed to measure up. Fortunately, this is decidedly not the case. Birches' executive chef Charles Galvano dazzles diners with his seasonally-changing "Cosmopolitan American Cuisine."

In actuality, "Global" might be a more adequate designation, as items travel between such diverse ports of call as French onion soup, Irish nachos, Greek salad, New Zealand grilled lamb, seared salmon "osso buco," shellfish paella, and roasted chicken potpie. Regardless of the culinary label, however, you may rest assured that the food is carefully prepared and exquisitely presented.

Photo by Arthur R. NamendorfEggplant Spring Roll

The eggplant spring roll ($9.00), for example, is cut on the bias and arranged vertically and horizontally on a diminutive antipasto salad of imported provolone, ricotta salata, and jullienned Sicilian salami & capicolla ham. Artistic splashes of lemon-basil oil and aged balsamic reduction add excitement for both the eye and the palate. The roll itself exhibits just the proper amount of crispness and is filled with tender strips of breaded eggplant, roasted tomato ragout, and house-made mozzarella. I've sampled numerous variations on the spring roll theme, and Mr. Galvano's version is certainly one of the most innovative... and also one of the best.

And speaking of innovation... the tye-dyed smoked Scottish salmon ($9.00) is yet another intriguing presentation. The fish is stained with roasted beets to give it a tye-dyed demeanor and is then companioned by a melted Brie "grilled cheese" mini-sandwich and a salad of French pears, shaved fennel, and baby arugula. The consummating touch is a provocative red onion-port balsamic jam.

The kitchen's signature appetizer, however, remains the crab cakes à la Barnett ($13.00), which was awarded 1st place by New Jersey's Make-a-Wish-Foundation. Their delightfully crispy countenance is enlivened with roasted corn & black bean salsa, guacamole, tiara of spicy crab relish, and a honey-chipotle ranch dressing & hints of cilantro-lime.

Photo by Arthur R. NamendorfNew Zealand Sirloin of Lamb

When it comes to entree selection, red meat lovers should bear in mind that the grilled lamb ($27.00) is a superlative effort. The New Zealand sirloin of lamb is marinated in fresh mint, rosemary & garlic, and then grilled to a perfect shade of pink. The flavor is incomparable, the texture exquisitely tender. The accompaniments include a luscious ratatouille & creamy goat cheese polenta, roasted red pepper demi-glace, and candied garlic cloves.

Confirmed carnivores will also find it impossible to resist the more basic -- but no less delicious -- Rastelli's 16-ounce certified Black Angus center-cut sirloin steak ($29.00). Embellished with Montreal Seasonings and kissed by the grill, it is teamed with addictive roasted garlic-sour cream mashed potatoes and finished with a heady pinot noir demi-glace.

Arthur R. NamendorfCrab Cakes

And if you missed the crab cakes the first time 'round, they make another appearance as a main course ($27.00). In this incarnation, the two cakes are panko-encrusted and crowned with two perfectly grilled jumbo shrimp. Accoutrements include a pillow of saffron rice embellished with black beans, grilled pencil-point asparagus, and honey chipotle drizzle & roasted red pepper jam.

There are a number of other seafood possibilities: pan-seared sashimi grade tuna ($28.00) and seared salmon "osso buco" ($26.00) -- Atlantic salmon wrapped around a jumbo diver scallop -- for example. But the star of the seafood show is undoubtedly the fabulous shellfish paella ($31.00): jumbo shrimp, diver scallops, and New Zealand green shell mussels served with a saffron rice pilaf, fire-roasted salsa fresco, crisp yucca chips, and a chunky avocado salad. The consummating touch is a roasted yellow pepper & cumin seed jus.

Desserts ($7.95) are something of a weak link. The made-in-house peach and blueberry creme brûlee are excellent; both the caramelized crust and delightfully creamy consistency are just right. Other items, however, supplied by My Sticky Buns across the street, lack the same polish. The Key lime pie, for instance, is the right color but not the right texture. It also lacks appropriate tanginess and has all the earmarks of a prolonged exile in the fridge.

On the other hand, there are certain compensations... Birches has an excellent list of Scotches (both blends and single malts), so you might consider a very pleasant libationary conclusion to your evening at table.