An E1505 went dead after water spilt on it

Have disassembled it and dried it out throughly. When attempting to turn it on, three green lights under the display come on for about 5-10 seconds, then go off. How can a person troublshoot to determine what assy. needs to be replaced? Any schematics available?

Haven't tried the suggestions yet, but the best info I have received so far after three days of asking questions online. Will give feedback after I try the suggestions. Thanks!Haven't tried the suggestions yet, but the best info I have received so far after three days of asking questions online. Will give feedback after I try the suggestions. Thanks!

Ron... I did the bare bones thing and it acts the same. I had the adapter, motherboard, 1 stick of memory and the display hooked up. Doesn't it need the HD also? The fan doesn't run and the display doesn't show any indication of florescence backlighting.

Previously I had checked for the 5v at the video connector and there wasn't any. Wish I could get hold of enough of a diagram to check the MB power supplies. I'm experienced at troubleshooting PCBs if I have some data, but, I'm not going to do it by the seat-of-my-pants, ha. Thank you for listening. donbart.Ron... I did the bare bones thing and it acts the same. I had the adapter, motherboard, 1 stick of memory and the display hooked up. Doesn't it need the HD also? The fan doesn't run and the display doesn't show any indication of florescence backlighting.
Previously I had checked for the 5v at the video connector and there wasn't any. Wish I could get hold of enough of a diagram to check the MB power supplies. I'm experienced at troubleshooting PCBs if I have some data, but, I'm not going to do it by the seat-of-my-pants, ha. Thank you for listening. donbart.

Ron, after reading your first solution it gave me the courage to 'get into' it. First I went through the "bare bones" approach and it acted the same way (three green LEDs on, then off in about ten seconds). So I let it lay for a couple of days before putting it all bac together to give it back to my grand-daughter with the bad news. After reassembly I thought it would be a good idea to try it again. IT'S WORKING! I think RESEATING must have done it. Some contact(s) must have been wiped clean. ITS A FIXYA!!Where did my last Post go?

OK, I'll re-post it,
Ron, after reading your first solution it gave me the courage to 'get into' it. First I went through the "bare bones" approach and it acted the same way (three green LEDs on, then off in about ten seconds). So I let it lay for a couple of days before putting it all bac together to give it back to my grand-daughter with the bad news. After reassembly I thought it would be a good idea to try it again. IT'S WORKING! I think RESEATING must have done it. Some contact(s) must have been wiped clean. ITS A FIXYA!!

Good morning donbart,Sounds like you probably did in the motherboard. They have a number of surface mounted fuses that are not easily replaced without specialized tools and training.

However, before we jump to that conclusion, there are two things that we can try. (Remove the battery and don't replace it until you are done with these processes) Reseat everything, or take it down to "bare bones" and see what happens.

Reseating everything means to tear it down to the point that you can access every connector and removable component. Disconnect each cable, and component, one at a time and plug it back in. While you're doing this, check for water stains (mineral deposits) and gently clean them with alcohol if any are found. If it doesn't come up after doing this, try the bare bones approach.

By bare bones, I mean to disassemble to the point that you only have the a/c adapter, motherboard, 1 stick of memory and the display hooked up. At this point, if it doesn't come up farther than it does at present, you more than likely have a bad motherboard.

If it does show signs of life, start reconnecting one item at a time, and try to power up after replacing each item or connector. If you replace/reconnect something and it no longer does anything, you have just located the part that is bringing your system down.

Using this approach, I have seen memory cards, hard disk drives, keyboards, mice, touchpads, floppies, cd readers all cause this type of problem.

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Ron-

donbart,Well, nuts! For bare bones, you don't need the HDD. It should come up with something on the display in bare bones. If not, your motherboard has shot craps. ;o(It does sound like a power problem but like you noted, they insist on building the ps on the motherboard. Diagrams and/or schematics are non-existant as far as I can see. It's hard to even get your hands on a motherboard parts location layout anymore.One idea that you may want to try is to look at the board real closely. They have been using surface mount fuses on them. I say to look real close because there are several different styles and a lot of them look the same as the caps and resistors. No marking on most of them. You have to get your clues by reading the markings on the board, itself. If you can find them, you might apply power and check for voltage on each end of any that you can find. If you find one blown you might be able to solder a new one on top of it? Trying to find a replacement may be an interesting project in itself.Don't know if that'll do it for you but it might be worth a shot.Ron-

donbart,Well, nuts! For bare bones, you don't need the HDD. It should come up with something on the display in bare bones. If not, your motherboard has shot craps. ;o(It does sound like a power problem but like you noted, they insist on building the ps on the motherboard. Diagrams and/or schematics are non-existant as far as I can see. It's hard to even get your hands on a motherboard parts location layout anymore.One idea that you may want to try is to look at the board real closely. They have been using surface mount fuses on them. I say to look real close because there are several different styles and a lot of them look the same as the caps and resistors. No marking on most of them. You have to get your clues by reading the markings on the board, itself. If you can find them, you might apply power and check for voltage on each end of any that you can find. If you find one blown you might be able to solder a new one on top of it? Trying to find a replacement may be an interesting project in itself.Don't know if that'll do it for you but it might be worth a shot.Ron-

Good 'nuff! Am always happy to help someone. Am glad to see that you got it fixed, and thanks for the "FixYa"!Thanks again!Ron-Good 'nuff! Am always happy to help someone. Am glad to see that you got it fixed, and thanks for the "FixYa"!Thanks again!Ron-

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Trey taking it apart and drying it. Use cans of compressed air , if necessary. Put it out in the sun, all day, to dry. If this does not work,
something got fried. These procedures need to be done BEFORE turning it back on.

Before you declare the keyboard dead and unusable please do the following. Use the hairdryer without heat to blow cold air into the keyboard. This will remove all traces of water that may be shorting the keys. Do it for quite sometime as you have to ensure that there is no water left under the keys.

The main board has been damaged, the water gets into the parts and causes corrosion and oxidizes turning any ic a green color. To attempt a repair the player will need to be unplugged and the battery removed before you dis-assemble the player. When you can see the boards, get some rubbing alcohol and a stiff toothbrush, dip toothbrush in the alcohol and scrub each part carefully removing any green on the boards and parts. After you finish let it dry overnight, and inspect the boards to see if any traces remain. If everything checks, assemble it back together and try the player.

Remove the batteries and then you can attempt to clean the key button by spraying it with electronic contact cleaner. However, be very careful to only use a small amount to get around and under the key, as the contact cleaner could damage the key material.

If possible, you should try to disassemble the shell and clean off the keypad with a damp towel (water only) so as not to remove the conductive pads on the underside of the keypad button.

You can also try to use a slightly dampened cloth to get the contamination under the keypad, without disasembling the calculator, but you'll have to wait for a good 24 hours before putting the batteries back in to see if it worked. You really don't want any water residue in there to cause more problems, hence the reason I usually disassemble things and use a contact cleaner to tackle the problem.

Allow the pad to dry before reassembling and you should be back in working order.

the coffee is somehow conducting a short circuit across solder pads, where it should not. The solution lies in removing the coffee. Disassemble completely to the point where you can take the main board and hard drive connector (if exist) out and actually wash in a tub of soapy water and rinse in a tub of alcohol and towel dry and then lightly blow dry. During disassembly, video your work to play back at a later time.