A Kolkata resident puts final touches on a statue in Kumartulli pottery village. The city’s core is full of fascinating scenes.

Garlands of marigolds await deliveries from Kolkata’s wholesale flower market. Starting in the 17th century, merchants arrived in the city seeking a huge variety of goods to resell in Europe. Photos: Barbara Selwitz

Related

It’s easy to assume Kolkata’s best centuries are behind it. Though its name was changed form the original Calcutta in 2001, its raucous, chaotic centre is still a study in overcrowding and dilapidation. Indeed it appears that development and upkeep ceased in 1911 when Britain moved the capital of its India colony to much-more-central Delhi.

Yet, while vibrant trade was the reason for Kolkata’s 17th-century founding, business today roars on, seemingly on every sidewalk, market stall and street.

Though many cite corruption that diverts critical repair funds as a key reason behind the city centre’s appearance, highrises in nearby suburbs offer a very different view. There, information technology and other contemporary industries offer a more optimistic view of Kolkata’s future.

For travellers — particularly those who’ve enjoyed other parts of India — Kolkata is a bracing counterpoint. And despite the intense heat, humidity, noise and pace, many are fascinated by Kolkata’s core.

Starting in the 17th century, merchants from countries including Britain, France, Denmark and Portugal came here seeking a huge variety of goods to resell in Europe.

Cotton, silk, indigo, dye, salt, saltpetre, tea and opium spurred flotillas that sailed up the Hooghly River, roughly 160 kilometres north of where it empties into the Bay of Bengal.

Though not officially part of government, entities such as Britain’s East India Company often ended up acting as government surrogates. Receiving a Royal Charter from Queen Elizabeth in 1600, the East India Company — which proved to be the most successful — was owned and powered by shareholding merchants and aristocrats.

As its influence grew, so did conflicts with local rulers. This peaked in 1756 when the Black Hole of Calcutta changed everything.

The Company had built Fort William on the site now occupied by the General Post Office. However, this worried the Nawab (or leader) of Bengal who feared the British were taking over his territory. On June 20, 1756 he attacked and conquered the fort and imprisoned more than a hundred captured civilians and soldiers. They were stuffed into a far-too-small dungeon and after just one night, most died from suffocation or dehydration

When the news reached London, the public cried for revenge. That came on June 23, 1757, when British troops conquered a French-based coalition, allied with the Nawab, at the Battle of Plassey, 150 kilometres from present-day Kolkata. This victory essentially ensured Britain’s dominance over the Indian subcontinent.

The company’s leading role continued until the British Crown took over territorial control in 1858. Kolkata then became be the new colony’s capital.

From then until 1911 when the capital was moved to more central Delhi, a bevy of stately Victorian structures arose, creating the heart of what was then considered to be one of the world’s most stylish cities. Today, a stroll around Dalhousie Square past many elegant exteriors (most cannot be entered due to extended renovation) is a highlight of any Kolkata visit.

Highlights include the Governor’s House, St. John Church (outside of which is a memorial obelisk commemorating “Black Hole” victims), the General Post Office, and the massive Writers Building that was the former East India Company headquarters, and the Victoria memorial built in 1921.

Do note that while the Victorian buildings can easily be seen, most of Kolkata’s other draws are harder to reach. Therefore, even the most determined independent travellers are probably best served by touring Kolkata in the company of a savvy guide.

Such assistance can be essential when, for example, navigating Chitpur Bazaar. Jam-packed with merchants, shoppers, porters moving amazing loads on their heads or piled onto bicycles, the crowding is daunting. No space lacks commerce, and whether its tea purveyors brewing, key makers crouching by roadsides, or money exchangers dealing on staircases, business pulsates as crowds roar past.

Nearby there are several synagogues, which welcome visitors. Though almost all of Kolkata’s once-thriving Jewish community has left, the well-preserved Maghen David and Beth El synagogues do welcome visitors. Guides can be invaluable in securing necessary permissions to visit, as well as finding actual points of entry. And not far away is College Street featuring many blocks packed with stalls selling everything from novels to textbooks.

Also unforgettable is the wholesale flower market. Quite near Kolkata’s iconic, cantilever Howrah Bridge and adjacent to the Hooghly River, you’ll see devout Hindus praying and immersing themselves in waters they deem holy. One prime appeal for them is that the Hooghly is an extension of the revered Ganges River.

The market itself features screaming yellow and orange marigolds being delivered, strung into garlands, and shipped out to Kolkata retail outlets. Many travellers, particularly photographers, feel the flower market was a highlight of their Kolkata stay.

On a calmer note you can also visit several of the 13 sites operated by Mother Teresa’s Kolkata-based charities where destitute and homeless are housed and cared for. You can also visit the administrative headquarters where a fascinating museum details the organization’s and Mother Teresa’s histories and operations, and the room where she lived and worked until her death in 1997.

Also fascinating is a stroll through Kumartulli pottery village. Here, workers produce oversized straw and clay images that are at the heart of a never-ending series of festivals honouring favourite Hindu gods and goddesses. Operating year-round, it’s most active in the weeks preceding the fall Durga Puja celebration.

Anther intriguing stop is the home of Rahindra Nath Tagore (1861-1941), winner of the 1913 Nobel Prize for literature, and one of India’s most revered writers. Highlights include an incredible trove of photographs detailing Tagore’s travels and encounters with worldwide leaders and thinkers.

WHEN YOU GO ...

Oberoi Hotel: Central Kolkata’s best hotel features elegant service, superb food, savvy concierge staff and a setting that’s a veritable oasis in the midst of the city’s tumult. www.oberoihotels.com

Peter Cat Restaurant: Wildly popular eatery that’s the best of the Park Street area choices. 18, Jawaharlal Nehru Road.

Indian Coffee House: A favourite meeting place near College St. for Kolkata’s many peoples and cultures. 15 Bankin Chatterjee St.

Jet Airways: India’s second largest airline offers comfortable and well-serviced flights between North America, Brussels and many India destinations. www.jetairways.com

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.

Almost Done!

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.