ORIGIN

Upgraded Black-Plate 1967 Volvo 1800S

10/31/2009 Update: This Volvo has been sold.

From 9/27/2009:

This 1967 Volvo 1800S coupe was cosmetically restored about 10 years ago and has had extensive mechanical upgrades in the last three years. The seller is the third owner and a Volvo Sports America chapter coordinator. Find it here on SoCal Vintage Motoring in Valencia, California for $12,500.

These cars look great in red and the stance on this one looks great. Ipd swaybars help in the corners and the brake system is all new. The B20 engine is a recent professional rebuild with a D-cam and SU carbs, and the slender twin exhaust tips are right for the model. The photos don’t show the Miata seats, so we’d want to make sure they worked with the vintage Swedish style.

The Cibie headlights look great but we’d consider losing the chin spoiler even though it might sacrifice aerodynamics at higher speeds. 16″ wheels are large for this car but might be less street rod if the centers were painted black. Overall this is a very clean and driver-oriented Volvo, and if the engine compartment and underside are just as clean it might just pull this price.

I just had to jump in here. Yes, John Truer’s set had the Chevy bolt pattern. Doug VanHardesveldt and I each had a set with the Ford pattern. What was my set is now on a very nicely re-done ’62 P1800 in Lansing, and another set somehow made it’s way to OK via SoCal.

Arguing about the wheels is silly, ya’ don’t like them,(and I don’t) change them, they’re not permanant. Early Volvo’s are solid cars, they can be made to handle very well, but don’t feel good doing it. likewise they can be made fast and rev high, but don’t sound good doing it either. They are however strong, reliable,sturdy, and have good brakes. They can be upgraded to perform well, but they still aren’t sporty feeling like say an Alfa. No sweet reving, no glorious mecahnical music, no light flingable dirrection changes….sigh.

Regarding the Motorwheel Spyders that were “floating around West Michigan”:

I acquired (‘borrowed’ might be the actual term) the best four of the eight Chevy-bolt patterened wheels for my ex-stottler 1985 S10 2wd Blazer I purchased in the mid 90s. These wheels were the ones Truer had on his S10 Blazer when he rolled it and were a bit rusty and sans their rare centercaps.

They were not the Ford-patterened wheels, as they wouldn’t fit the Volvo.

Not knowing how to restore them, I cleaned them up as best I could, but as you are aware, I’m too fussy to run something “shabby” on my cars and opted for a set of Firebird basketweaves (powdercoated red) and some Goodyear “gatorbacks”. Anyway, I returned them to where ever it was I got them.

They were not the Ford lug-patterened wheels, as you seem to suggest — they wouldn’t fit the Volvo. But, as I recall, the late Mr. Truer said there were indeed a couple of sets made for Volvos back around 1970. I saw one of them during the short-lived C.A.R. Service Center where you could, on any given day, find West Michigan’s “usual (auto enthusiast) suspects” in 1972.

I always liked American Racing 200s wheels on 1800s/122s. The Ford pattern in this car does give one lots of choices. 1800s changed to the 140/240/740 pattern in 1968 with the introduction of 4 wheels disc brakes. Alas ,Delia,the Spyders you’re likely thinking of were returned to the rightfull owner but were Chevy pattern.

Somebody buy this quick, sell those rims to a street rodder, give the seats to the local Miata club and throw the spoiler off a cliff. One set of stock wheels or minilites and you’re all set for next year’s CA Melee.

Taking my daughter to school this morning, saw an 1800 doing commute duty. Straight body, faded paint, no smoke. Don’t see one of these every day but they look good. Of course, the one this morning had steelies.

I don’t like those particular wheels on any car, in any size, at any time, ever. They are one of the ugliest wheels ever built. As an updated 70’s wheel, they fail. As a modern wheel, they suck dog. No car ever built is improved by them. I am starting a campaign to have them all recalled, and melted down into fresh beer cans, where they will bring some small joy to all of us. Anyone who thinks they improve the look of their car should probably just stop working on automobiles and buy a horse, because they are quite obviously bereft of any sense of style.

I’ve always liked these cars,but the handful I have seen near me always needed a lot of work,and not knowing much about them,never took the plunge. This would be perfect to me,even the wheels. Great job!

Slightly wider steel wheels with tires that have more grip would be good. Nothing FLASHY about a P1800 so the wheels should not be. Chin spoiler is just that, a spoiler. I love 1800s. Twin 45DCOE carburetors would be a nice upgrade. My 1800 could rev to 8500rpm and drive cross country reliably. This could be a sweet car with small changes. Good luck, price seems fair.

I’ve seen this car and it goes well. You can argue about wheels all you want but at the end of the day what you want is a straight, reliable and well-performing car. The rest is easy. This is a great car and looks fantastic. All of the expensive stuff seems to be fresh. If you want a very durable classic that can tackle a canyon road as well as the highway then I would seriously check this one out.

Also, I would never choose a Weber over an SU unless raw power was your goal. The Weber may do better at WOT but the SU will be far better for daily use imho.

Despite the controversy regarding the design (Was it Frura or boat designer and yachtsman Pelle Pettersson, son of Hellmer Pettersson, designer of the Volvo PV444?), the uplifted nose was mid-century classic design in the manner of Karmann or BMWs in-house designed 1600-2 (better known as the 2002).

I’m not a big fan of a color change during resparay, but that’s just because I’m seen so many that have been done badly (I’m working on a Polaris Silver BMW E9 coupe that was once Taiga, so please forgive my bias).

As for wheels, Californians have a tendency to stuff the biggest wheels/tires they can under the wheel wells at the expense of low speed steering effort. When you surpass 7″ of width and and achieve R-compound rubber, a gym membership should be required. It seems there is no limitations to taste during this exercise, and vintage wheels are so rare, they look “quaint” and most definitely out-of-place.

I’m the seller of this car and as a BaT reader, I was nicely surprised to see it here! Anyway, I totally understand that the wheels aren’t for everyone–luckily they are easy enough to change. Since the bolt pattern is common among Fords, you could even recover some $ by selling them to the Mustang crowd (also, this is why 80’s turbo Volvo wheels won’t work–bolt pattern changed in ’68). I will say, though, that the general public loves these wheels and the wider rubber.

As for the spoiler, it’s not as prominent in person. Looks bigger in the second photo b/c of how low we put the camera (usually the bumper obscures it). We took that photo, btw, on the way along Highway 1 from L.A. to Monterey weekend in ’08.

Also, I disagree with the SU vs. Webers comment that was made. For a car setup for street reliability and efficiency, you can’t beat the dual SU’s!

Anyway, you can reference the info that JBP posted. I’m happy to answer questions via email. This car isn’t perfect, but it’s fun and ready to drive ANYWHERE–no need for a trailer!!!

RDH, Yes I once owned a 68 1800S once thats why we know.:) They are beautiful cars, but driving it was always somewhat of a disappointment…they don’t drive like a sports car, they just look like one. I am actually a big fan of classic volvos, but admit their appeal is quality, durability, safety, not performance. I like the 120’s, 140’s and 164’s as well, which are really the “bread and butter” of 1960’s Volvo’s. You wouldn’t take a 122s down a twisty road too fast and that’s perfectly ok…

Some buying tips for anyone interested in 1800’s: Rust is not as big an issue with these (or any other 1960’s Volvo) as it is with other European cars from this vintage because the steel is thicker/heavier, designed for Swedish winters. Your focus should instead be on if it was ever in an accident (the fenders cannot be unbolted, they must be cut off, it’s a difficult body to repair) and the interior (Volvo interiors tend to fall apart after 30+ years) because new interiors are $$. The back seat is EXTEREMELY cramped, forget ever using it for real people…it’s a 2 seater. The engine is bullet proof, but the carbs need constant tuning or replace with a single weber.

I have always wanted one of these for as long as I can remember but this one does nothing for me. The wheels are horrid, too big, and it screws up the ride height completely. The chin spoiler has to go too. I think a set of 15″ 4 spoke revolutions in dark gray would set it off nicely. What I don’t understand is why would you go to the trouble to put a built B20 in the car but run an SU carb? Go the final step and put a side draft Weber on it. The owner is like those guys who put $5000 into the paint job and put a $40 Grant steering wheel in the car.

Toning down the wheels and painting the chin spoiler matte black could make this one great car. I am not sure what aftermarket wheels are right for the 1800, but I am sure there are some that would greatly improve the appearance. Maybe Minilites in gray?

@ Richard: +1 on those rims. Seller says “The wheel/tire combo really completes the look of this car”? Frankly, I think they really compete with the look of the car. For me, it’s a case of spemding more money to create less value.

I unquestionably owe by life to my old ’62 P1800 which absorbed a 50mph T-Bone impact from a massive ’70’s Olds 88…..The’lobster-claw’ 3 point seat belt (years before required simple lap belts)allowed me to walk away with a knocked down shoulder instead of a permanent Elephantman impression….

As I’ve posted before, I once had a pristine 1800ES and it was a sweety, but the truck-like qualities and lack of power steering can get old. Guys S, you must’ve lived with one before. We all are drawn to the styling because it’s an odd mix of restrained ’50s American fins and Euro elegance. Sweden’s Studebaker, if you like. They are pretty and nicely proportioned.

Volvo ’80s Turbo wheels look good on these, but original steel wheels w/trim & caps work best. Nice car otherwise and looks like a solid buy for the asking.

@jpb: we appreciate your enthusiasm but perhaps giving the seller a heads-up, and let him post here would’ve been more appropriate. Just sayin’.

Agree with the comments re the wheels – too Foosey. Not every ’60s-70s car needs updating with oversized Torq-thrusts. Plus-one Panasports/Minilites are the easy and appropriate solution. If you want to get creative, go for some Cromodoras.

It needed an engine rebuild? Irv Gordon says he had his P1800 engine rebuilt at 650k and has since decided it was not needed. He has put another 1400k miles on it since. Yep two million total, but you all knew that. If you want to take a very long trip this might be your car, it sure has worked for Irv. Makes my butt sore just thinking about it, but there is a lot to see out on the open road. And it is only 333 round trips coast to coast.

Ideal situation—favorable climate car owned by a club member of the marque. We exchanged emails a couple of days ago…and here was his response. I made an offer –but it was declined. I am not done yet !!

JPB,

(EDIT). I’ll be busy all day today and tomorrow, but give me a call on Sunday afternoon and we can talk about the 1800. I’m asking $12,500, but am flexible on the price. I did write up more details about the car, so I’ll just paste them for you here. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.

This â€™67 Volvo 1800S (aka â€œP1800â€) is for someone who wants a great vintage sports coupe to use and enjoy, not the purist who just wants to park it and look at it. Iâ€™ve owned this car since 2007, adding about 25k miles. Itâ€™s been a blast, and car has never let me down or left me stranded. Over $13k spent in the last 3 years alone! Selling to start a family this year.

I bought this 1800S from a fellow Volvo Sports America / 1800 Register member (I am the current SoCal Chapter Coordinator), who had (reportedly) purchased the car several years prior from the widow of the original ownerâ€”a Volvo mechanic from Santa Monica. An original California black plate car, it shows just over 90k miles. I actually think thereâ€™s a good chance thatâ€™s original, but youâ€™re better off assuming itâ€™s 190k (itâ€™s a 5-digit odo). Now for the details:

DRIVETRAIN Â· Original B18 scrapped in October 2006 and replaced with a professionally built B20 (2.0 liter) from Ian and Eric at Torrance Hi-Performance (formerly â€œOld Volvos Onlyâ€), the best vintage Volvo shop in SoCal. Please feel free to call them about this carâ€”they know it well. The motor was ordered as a street engine with an emphasis on durability, not racing or super high horsepower. In more than 30k miles since the installation, I have never had to add a single drop of oil between changes (I use Valvoline with ZDDP, and OEM/Mann filters). More specs on the engine: Â· Volvo D-grind (fuel injection) camshaft Â· Steel timing gears Â· Hardened valve seats (for unleaded fuel) Â· Ipd oil pump reinforcement ring Â· Mallory Unilite electronic distributor and Promaster ignition coil Â· Kingsborne spark plug wires Â· Ipd finned alloy valve cover (original cover included) Â· New radiator, belt, hoses, etcâ€¦ Â· Delco alternator installed using the Sw-Em kit in early 2009 Â· Duralast Gold battery installed in 2008 Â· Dual SU HS6 carbs with KD needlesâ€”bodies rebuilt with new throttle shafts and bushings by Rhys Kent (Island Automotion) earlier this month Â· K&N air filters in chrome housings Â· Original dual-down exhaust manifold into a 2.25â€ exhaust with one Magnaflow muffler and dual chrome tips (system installed in 2009â€”the original stainless tips are also included). The exhaust is nicely muted at idle and cruise, but lets out a great European sound when you get on the throttle, with a sweet burble on overrun. Â· Bosch O2 sensor with a hideable air/fuel ratio gauge placed on the dash (nice for carb tuning) Â· When the engine was out, the entire engine bay was stripped and painted flat black. A fresh battery box was installed, and virtually every fastener replaced. The wiring harness was cleaned up, repaired, and recovered. Â· The transmission is the original M41 4-speed manual + overdrive. I use Redline MTL. A new speedometer drive gear and seal were installed in 2008. New nylon shifter bushing for crisp and direct shifts. Synchros work flawlessly, though 3rd gear has a whine. The overdrive works instantly every time. Rearend is good but also a bit whiny. New pinion seal and u-joints.

BODY Â· All metal and glass on this car are original. Repainted red about 10 years ago (originally green). The paint shows wellâ€”it was an average 3-day paint job. Easy enough to return the car to green in the futureâ€”that was my plan. 2-3 small bubbles in each original rocker (factory seams present), and some at the bottom of the rear valence. There is zero rust anywhere else. The floors, wheel arches, battery box, doors, trunk floor, and jack points are all 100% solid and original. Â· The chrome and stainless on this car are also original, showing average wear. NOS Volvo mirrors were installed in 2006, and an Ipd fiberglass front spoiler. New correct windshield wipers. Â· Almost all the rubber was replaced last year. New door seals, door windlace, quarter window seals, headlight seals, parking light seals, hood seal, bumper bracket grommets (all 4), and taillight seals. Â· Headlamps upgraded to real Cibie H4 e-code lamps (not cheapâ€”but these are awesome!). To accommodate higher-wattage H4 bulbs, a plug-in harness was added with Hella relays. None of the original wiring was cut or removed. Youâ€™ll wish all your cars had headlamps this good!

INTERIOR Â· Entire interior seems to have been redone (in black) around the time the car was painted red. The headliner, panels, carpet, and upholstery show almost no wear. New Ipd plush floormats. Upper dash pad has only a small crack, and a new cap has been fitted over the lower dash. New pedal pads. Lokar shift boot; Epco knob (original knob included). Â· Miata seats in matching black leather. Original seats are included. Â· The original â€œlobster clawâ€ safety belts are still in place, with new webbing installed when the interior was redone (no reason to trust your life to 40-year-old nylon). Â· Grant mahogany steering wheel with a reproduction Volvo R-sport horn button. Original steering wheel (with normal cracking) and horn button included. Â· All original gauges present except clock. Capillary water and oil temp gauges donâ€™t work (do they ever on these cars?), so an accurate Sunpro water temp gauge is fitted in the original clock bezel. Speedo was recently rebuilt and calibrated by North Hollywood Speedometerâ€”still about 6 months left on the warranty. Â· Stereo is a JVC KD-PDR80. Controls/charges your Ipod via front USB port. Power antenna is retractable via hidden switch. Â· 1967 owners manual included.

SUSPENSION/BRAKES Â· Entire braking system has been renewed: new master cylinder, new pressure switch, new Sw-Em brake light switch kit, new Ipd braided stainless hoses, rebuilt front calipers installed with new pads, new rear wheel cylinders and shoes, new right-side parking brake cable (the side routed near the exhaust), and new Lockheed brake booster. Â· New gas shocks installed in early 2008. New poly trailing arm bushings and poly lower A-arm bushings added recentlyâ€”the suspension is nice and tight. Ipd anti-sway bars front and rear give awesome flat cornering. Alignment was done last summer. Â· The wheel/tire combo really completes the look of this car. Wheels are Torq Thrust IIâ€™s, 16×7. Front tires are brand new; the rears have about 60-70% remaining. The original spare, hold-down, cover, and jack are present in the trunk.

Congratulations for reading this far! I know you will not be disappointed with this Volvo. The car gets thumbs-up, double takes, and compliments every single day, from people of all ages genders. It took â€œBest P1800/1800Sâ€”Modifiedâ€ at the 2008 VCOA Bozzani Volvo Show. Hop in this car today and drive it anywhere in North America.

Seems reasonable for the content; I’ve always liked the look of these cars, but can’t explain why. With the lines the way they are, it should look ghastly, but it somehow works. Lose the front spoiler. Needs to also lose some ride height, to my eye. But I’m at a loss for wheels. These definitely aren’t it, but minilites would be too seen-it-already.

Nice car and seems like a reasonable price. The knock against these cars is they drive like 1950’s cars (like a truck) because they are so heavy and the technology was outdated. Nice looking, but won’t handle like a German or Italian car.