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When Antonio Galloni requested my palate and penmanship, he was
blissfully unaware of my cunning plan to festoon Vinous with tasting notes on innumerable
bottles born in the same year as myself: part of my crusade to convince the
world that 1971 is the greatest global postwar vintage ever. In bygone times,
the barometer of a vintage was the performance of the Left Bank, since it
dominated trade and narrow conceptions of fine wine. In 1971 the Left Bank was
average at best. Meanwhile, nearly every other wine region, including the Right
Bank and Sauternes, for that matter, performed exceptionally well, and that
includes Germany. I have not drunk many 1971 Rieslings, but whenever the
occasion does arise, I tend to be blown away, which is what happened when Egon
Müller IV poured a birth-year gem in Beaune last November.

Egon Müller’s father, Egon Müller III, made the 1971. Of course,
it is an anomaly insofar as it is referred to by vineyard only, without
appendage of village name. The 1971
Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese is burnished gold in color. The
bouquet wafts generously from the glass, carrying intense acacia honey,
chamomile, marmalade and Japanese yuzu
aromas, all extremely harmonious and never overpowering. It is utterly
intoxicating. The palate is unctuous on the entry, as you would expect,
although age has mellowed this Beerenauslese so that it comes across as effortless.
Crème brûlée, vanilla, quince, chamomile and orange pith seduce the senses, the
concentration offset by a killer line of acidity. It gently crescendos, but
never demands attention on the finish – it is far too sophisticated to
entertain ostentation. And the length is just ridiculous. After 47 years, this is
perfect to drink now, although on this showing I can see no reason why it will
not give pleasure over the next 47 years or more. 97/Drink: 2019-2070