You Haven`t Truly `Done` Britain Until You`ve Hoisted A Few In

A Local Pub

July 28, 1985|By Stephen Birnbaum, Tribune Media Services.

Public drinking places are certainly not unique to Britain, but travelers who have spent an evening--or a series of evenings--in a British country pub come away feeling as though they have discovered the heart of the country.

The social life of England, Scotland, Wales--urban or rural--more often than not centers on these neighborhood drinking places--usually called

``locals``--and it`s here in the neighborhood pub that events of the day and the social commerce of the community usually are transacted.

In recent years, pubs also have developed food menus that are better than merely bearable, and folks now have one more reason to congregate around a nearby pub`s hearth. The character of individual pubs varies widely--nearly as broadly as the range of draft brews available for sampling: beer, ale, bitter, mild, stout and lager, among others. So it`s not much of an exaggeration to suggest that any trip to the British Isles is incomplete without at least one extended visit with a local publican.

Herewith, several more selections from among the very best, most unusual and most evocative British pubs we know.

-- Plough and Sail, Paglesham, Essex, England: This clapboard-walled pub is better known by yachtsmen than by passing motorists. The location--not far from the town of Rochford, near the Essex marshes within sniffing distance of the North Sea--is wonderfully remote, and cars just do not pass. Yet the pub itself is remarkably lively, thanks to the vivacious family of broad-speaking former East Enders who run the place. It also is quite comfortable and quite charming. Summer weekends bring crowds; at other times, things are quieter, and in chilly weather, there`s always a log fire crackling on the hearth. Phone: Canewdon 242.

-- Black Swan, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire, England: Sir John Gielgud, Albert Finney, Peter O`Toole and Glenda Jackson have all frequented this place at one time or another. The ``Dirty Duck,`` as it`s informally known, is very much the actors` hangout. That is due in part to a location conveniently down the street from Stratford`s Shakespeare Memorial Theatre, but in equal part, perhaps to a certain attitude on the part of the management that rates the comforts of its thespian patrons as a high priority. No matter that less illustrious visitors may have to try a little harder to order some of that wonderful steak-and-kidney pie--there`s always someone interesting to look at while waiting. The pub also boasts a first-class restaurant that stays open for after-theater suppers. Phone: Stratford-upon-Avon 297312.

-- Rose and Crown, Tewin, Hertfordshire, England: Overlooking the village green, in a part of the Home Counties whose peaceful aspect belies its relative nearness to London (about 25 miles) and its even greater proximity to the new town of Welwyn Garden City, the Rose and Crown is a typical country local, with a mixed clientele--deadly serious dart players who monopolize the boards in the public bar for matches with representatives from neighboring towns` watering spots; village elders, playing cribbage or dominoes; children, who frolic in the garden in summer; and stylish young people, who favor the comfortable pile-carpeted lounge. The bar snacks are good, and the warm, candlelit restaurant serves up such traditional English food as roast beef, steak-and-kidney pie and jugged hare. Phone: Tewin 7257.

-- Hole in the Wall, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, England: From the mid-17th Century until the early 1970s, this red-brick structure, known in Victorian times as the Central Smoking Divan and believed to date to the Restoration, housed a tobacconist`s shop. The snug in the rear was virtually unknown. The establishment that now occupies the premises at 9 High St. is another kind of place altogether, and has been almost totally transformed. The interior space has been divided into two tiers, one overlooking the other; and both areas are full of red-flocked wallpaper and comfortable furniture with upholstery to match. There`s a separate restaurant, but the homemade pies and ``pastries``

and assorted bar snacks served in the single bar are quite tasty. The Hole in the Wall is known for its live jazz, and the variety of beer also available is good because this is a so-called free house--not owned by a brewery like most in England. Phone: 0892-26550.