John Schreiner on wine

Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Tyler Harlton and friends

Photo: Tyler Harlton of TH Wines

Before he became a winemaker, Summerland-based Tyler Harlton
played eight seasons of professional hockey and seldom had more than 60 penalty
minutes a season.

Everyone who meets this laid-back artisan is surprised his
penalty minutes were even that high. He is as gentle a personality as you will
find in the Okanagan wine industry.

And he hangs out with other artisanal winemakers. In June,
TH Wines, as he calls his winery, joined five other small wineries for an informal
tasting in Vancouver. They should consider keeping this league
together. Their personalities and winemaking styles are quite complimentary.

TH Wines is one of the smaller of these producers, making
just 1,100 cases in 2013. The winery was established three years ago in
quarters that Tyler
rented in an industrial park in Summerland. His business model calls for
spending money on buying grapes and getting the brand established before tying up
capital in a vineyard or in a fancy building. He opened a modest tasting room
this year for the first time.

He may be operating on a shoestring but that is not
reflected in to quality of the wines. These are notes on the wines.

TH Wines By Hand
White 2013 ($19.99 for 468 cases). The name of this wine is inspired by the
new labels – the image of two hands on a wine barrel. They are Tyler’s hands and the image underlines the
artisanal approach here. This wine is 84% Chardonnay, 16% Sauvignon Blanc. It
is a richly textured wine with flavours of pear and apple mingled with herbs.
The finish lingers. 90.

Th Wines Viognier
2013 ($N/A). This is a classic Viognier, with a creamy texture and with
apricot and peach aromas and flavours. The finish lasts and lasts. 90.

TH Wines Rosé 2013 ($21.99
for 119 cases). This is made with Merlot with a splash of Malbec and
Chardonnay. It has aromas and flavours of apples and strawberries. The texture
is generous and the finish is dry. 89.

TH Wines Pinot Noir
2012 ($29.99 for 270 cases). This is an utterly seductive Pinot Noir. The
silky texture and the pretty aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry make
this a charming wine with a finish that lingers. 91.

TH Wines Cabernet
Merlot 2012 ($34.99 for 306 cases.) The
blend here is two-thirds Cabernet Franc, a varietal that Tyler favours. The other third is Merlot and
Malbec. The wine has brambly flavours of blackberry and cherry on a foundation
of earthy notes and long ripe tannins. 90.

Tyler’s
friends include Little Farm Winery,
the Cawston boutique operated by wine educator Rhys Pender MW and his winemaker
wife, Alishan Driediger (left). They moved to this property in 2008, planting a
four-acre vineyard of Chardonnay and Riesling.

Little Farm may well be the smallest licensed winery (or
close to it) in the Similkameen and Okanagan. Production in 2013 totalled 353
cases, with the target at full production being 800 cases.

Little Farm
Chardonnay 2013 ($29.90 for 68 cases). Crisp and refreshing and reminiscent
of Chablis, this wine has delicate citrus aromas and flavours of grapefruit and
green apple. 88.

Little Farm Riesling
2013 ($29.90 for 115 cases). In the style of German Riesling, this wine
spent some time in neutral oak barrels, gaining texture and softening the
bracing acidity. The wine has citrus aromas and tangy citrus flavours wrapped
around a nice spine of minerals. The finish is dry. 90.

Little Farm Rosé 2013
($24.90 for 170 cases). This is made with Cabernet Franc and it displays
the vivacity of the varietal. There are aromas and flavours of strawberry and
raspberry, with notes of herbs and pepper on the dry finish. 90.

Also in Tyler’s
circle is Orofino Vineyards, also of Cawston. John and
Virginia Weber (right) moved from Saskatchewan
in 2001 to take over a six-acre vineyard and, within a few years, become
accomplished wine growers. Earlier in July, they hosted vertical tastings of
their wines, reaching as far back as a 2003 Pinot Noir and a 2003
Cabernet-Merlot.

They have not chosen to stay small even if there is great
artisanal style in the winemaking. Orofino
now is making about 4,500 cases a year.

Orofino Hendsbee
Vineyard Riesling 2013 ($22 for 600 cases). Here is a polished and refined
Riesling, with aromas and flavours of lime around a spine of minerals. The wine
is crisply tangy and dry with good potential to age. 91.

Orofino Home
Vineyard Old Vines Riesling 2013 ($29 for 100 cases). Most of this was
fermented in old barrels; two barrels were fermented with wild yeast for
additional complexity. The racy acidity is nicely balanced with residual sugar.
There are aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit around a mineral core. The
finish is tangy. 90.

Orofino Scout Vineyard Riesling 2013 ($22 for
350 cases). A touch more residual sugar brings out aromas and flavours of lime,
apple and peach. The texture is juicy. 90.

Orofino Celentano Vineyard Gamay 2013 ($23 for
120 cases). This could be a light Beaujolais Cru wine. The aromas and flavours
of spicy cherry and raspberry dance on the palate. A note of pepper on the
finish wraps up this lively wine very nicely. 90

Orofino Home
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 ($32). The wine begins with aromas of cherries
mingling with the toasty notes from the barrels. On the palate, there are
flavours of cherry and strawberry with a touch of mocha on the finish. 90.

OrofinoRedBridge Merlot 2011 ($25). This is the only
wine in Orofino’s portfolio not made
with Similkameen fruit. The Merlot grapes come from the Oak Knoll Vineyard in
Kaleden. This is a very quaffable Merlot (a gold medal winner at the All
Canadian Wine Awards) with aromas and flavours of black currant and blueberry.
88.

Orofino
Beleza 2011 ($34). This is the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend, comprising 50% Merlot, 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Dark in colour,
the wine has a ripe, concentrated texture. There are aromas and flavours of
black currant, black cherry and mulberry nicely framed with oak from the 20
months aging in French and American oak barrels. It is a sophisticated wine
with the potential to age easily for another five to seven years. 93.

Terravista Vineyards is
a 1,700-case boutique making just white wine. There is a delicious irony in
that. The owners are Paul and Senka Tennant, one of the couples that founded
the Black Hills winery where the star was a
red wine called Nota Bene. When the Tennants established a new winery in 2008
on the Naramata Bench, Senka (left) decided she did not want to go on making red wine.

They really differentiated Terravista by planting Albariño
and Verdejo, two Spanish whites new to Okanagan vineyards. The blend from these
is called Fandango. A blend of Rhone
varieties, made with purchased grapes, is called Figaro.

The winery’s tasting room high on the Naramata Bench offers
one of the best views over the entire region.

Terravista Fandango
2013 ($24.90). The wine is 70% Albariño and 30% Verdejo. Crisp and fresh,
the wine has aromas and flavours of melons and green apples. This is a wine
worth aging for a year or two. The 2012 Fandango has developed hints of
hazelnut to enhance the complexity. 90.

Terravista Figaro
2012 ($23.90). This is a blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Marsanne.
Glorious tropical fruit aromas charge from the glass. The wine is full on the
palate, with flavours of apricot and peach. 90.

Terravista Viognier
2013 ($17.90). This is new to the portfolio, probably because the winery
ended up with more Viognier than it needed for blending. The wine is crisp and
fresh, with aromas and flavours of citrus and peach. 89.

Bill Eggert (right), the
owner of Fairview Cellars, has been
a fixture in Okanagan winegrowing longer than most of the other six. He opened
the winery, based on a six-acre vineyard, in 2000. His focus has been Bordeaux varietals
although he planted a small Pinot Noir vineyard a few years ago.

I sometimes wonder whether Bill is best described as salt of
the earth, or just plain salty. However, the wines are as forthright as the
winemaker.

Fairview Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($19.90).
This vibrant and tangy white has aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit,
with herbal notes on the dry finish. 90.

Fairview Cellars Pinot Noir 2012 ($24.90). This
is another charmer, with aromas and flavours of strawberries and red cherries,
supported subtly by hints of oak. The texture is silky. 90.

Fairview Cellars Madcap Red 2011 ($24.90 for
300 cases). This blend is based on Merlot, with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10%
Cabernet Franc. It begins with aromas of mint and cassis. On the palate, there
are flavours of black currant. The tannins are ripe. 90.

Fairview Cellars Cabernet Franc 2012 ($29.95).
The winery has made a name for itself with Cabernet Franc and this is an
exuberant example. It brims with aromas and flavours of blackberry, black
currant and blueberry. 90-91.

Fairview Cellars The Bear 2011 ($34.90 for 300
cases). This is a Meritage with all five of the major Bordeaux reds. The Cabernet Sauvignon in the
blend seems to have contributed slight notes of mint to the aroma and the
flavour, turbo charging the spicy cherry and black currant flavours. 91.

Fairview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Premier Series
2011 ($39). Fourteen months barrel-aging has given this wine a not of
vanilla in the aroma, complementing the black cherry. The wine has a rich
palate weight, with flavours of black currant, black cherry and dark chocolate.
91.

Fairview Cellars Iconoclast 2009 ($119.90). This
wine is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon but it spent 27 months in barrel (new and
used). The wine is rich on the palate, with depth and complexity. There is
vanilla and cassis on the nose, leading to flavours of black currant, prune,
cola and coffee. 93.

Robert Van Westen (left), who runs Van Westen Vineyards
near Naramata, comes by his salt of the earth personality naturally. His family
has been growing fruit, mostly cherries, on the Naramata Bench since his
parents immigrated from Holland
in 1951.

The winery has taken over a former fruit packing house.
Robert runs the tasting room, when it is open, with a warm informality. He also
delivers his wine personally to many of his customers. When he can’t do it, he
has a sister in Vancouver who will also deliver.

Van Westen Viognier
2012 ($N/A). This is voluptuous in texture, with aromas and flavours of
citrus and apricot, with subtle spice on the finish. 90.

Van Westen Vino
Grigio 2012 ($19.90 for 530 cases). This is a refreshing, crisp Pinot Gris
with aromas of citrus and flavours of citrus, pear and apple. 90.

Van Westen Vivacious
2013 ($19.90). This is a crisp Pinot Blanc, with aromas and flavours of
apples, with a hint of citrus. 90.

Van Westen/DiBello
Pinot Noir 2012 ($34.90 for 125 cases). The VD on the label reflects that
this is a joint venture wine made by Rob and by Tom DiBello. It begins with
aromas of toasty red fruit, leading to flavours of cherry. The firm texture
suggests this is a Pinot Noir that should be aged a few more years. 89.

Van Westen Vivre La Vie 2010 ($29.90). This is a Merlot
with a concentrated texture. It has aromas and flavours of blueberry, mulberry
and blackberry with a peppery note on the finish. 90.

Van Westen Voluptuous
2010 ($29.90 for 218 cases). This is 66% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc.The texture has grip, as it should
have in a wine designed to develop in bottle for at least six more years. At
this tasting, Rob also allowed guests to sample three previous vintages,
including a 2006 which is drinking very well. The 2010 has aromas of cassis and
sage, with a medley of flavour including black currant, black cherry, herbs and
chocolate. 91

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Blue Grouse is getting a new winery

Now under new ownership, the CowichanValley’s
21-year-old Blue Grouse Estate Winery is expanding with the construction of a
new winery.

The added capacity will enable this winery to increase its
production above the boutique volumes made by founder Hans Kiltz.

On retiring in 2012, Hans sold the winery to Paul Brunner (right), a
Canadian mining executive who still splits his time between the winery and an
office in Lima, Peru
(his wife has family in Peru).
He was drawn to buy a winery on Vancouver Island in part because he has a
brother in Nanaimo.

“We had been looking for a vineyard or a “lifestyle” type of
thing for a long time, six or seven years any way,” Paul told me in 2012. “My
wife actually found this winery.”

This is a property with a colourful history. The first vines
were planted here in 1983 by John Harper (left), a legend in British Columbia viticulture who died in
2001. He had selected arguably one of the best sites in the CowichanValley.
His work was derailed by a group of promoters whose proposal for a winery and
an associated research program flopped.

The property was acquired in 1990 by Hans Kiltz (right), a
German-born veterinarian. He had spent many years working in Africa.
He moved to Vancouver Island to give his
children access to good schools. He intended to transfer his skills to fishing
farming but, when that industry went into recession, he switched to winemaking.

He extended the Harper vineyard ultimately to eight and a
half acres. “I knew about the vineyard,” says Bailey who once worked in Victoria restaurants. “I
always thought that the varieties that Hans was growing were inspired. He
wasn’t trying to push the rock up hill.”

Hans produced only estate-grown wines. The first vintage was
1989 and the winery opened in 1993. Blue Grouse is well-regarded for its wines,
especially Pinot Gris, Ortega and Pinot Gris. The wines were sold almost
entirely on Vancouver Island.

Paul Brunner and Bailey Williamson, his winemaker, are
setting out to expand production and raise the profile of Blue Grouse.

In June, the winery announced: “Construction is now underway on a new modernized winery and tasting room,
with architectural design inspired by the winery’s namesake bird. The roofline echoes the curve of a grouse’s
head and neck, and finishing touches reflect the palette of the bird’s
feathers.” The architect is Joe Chauncey of Boxwood Architects in Seattle.

Meanwhile, the winery
has begun assessing the potential for expanding its vineyard. “Once it
is all down, we should have roughly 20 acres under vine here,” Bailey says. “We
will maintain that for the estate label.”

Bailey also has developed a second label, Quill, for wines
that will use purchased grapes. “We need to have a saleable production of
around 5,000 cases before it becomes a real business,” Bailey says. “It is a
whole different model.”

The winery’s 2013 production was 2,700 cases. The rate at
which that expands to the target will be governed by sales. That’s why a new
label has been created and why Blue Grouses’ modest winery is being transformed
into a destination winery. There will be a large new tasting room as well as an
industrial kitchen for catering special events.

“The phone rings off the hook about having weddings here,”
Bailey says.

The son of an accountant, Bailey grew up in a family that
often had wine on the table. His interest in wine was confirmed in his previous
food industry career. “I worked as a chef for 20 years before I got into this
line,” he says.

“I landed on the island in 1993 and worked around the
kitchens in Victoria.
In 2000, I was looking for a change.” He went to the Okanagan, working several
vintages at Sumac Ridge and taking winemaking course at OkanaganCollege.

“Then I went down to McLaren Vale and did a six-month stint
there with Hardy’s,” he says. “I had a great time in Australia and was profoundly
changed by the experience. “I came back to the Okanagan and worked around at a
number of places. Then I was back here on the island for two years and got a
job at Merridale making cider, which I found very fascinating and interesting.
I left Merridale and was toying with the idea of going to learn to make
cheese.”

Then he met Michael Bartier, who has just become the
winemaker at Road 13 Vineyards. Bailey confided he would like to keep making
wine, but in a stable job, not just working vintages. He was offered a job at
Road 13, returned to the Okanagan, and settled down under Michael’s
tutelage. “That was a seminal
opportunity for me, to spend enough time in the cellar to learn and understand
what was going on,” Bailey says.

That wealth of experience stands him in good stead at Blue
Grouse, which he joined in 2012. As well, his Okanagan contacts have been
useful in contracting the premium Okanagan grapes he needs to expand the Quill
brand.

Here are notes on the current wines at Blue Grouse.

Blue Grouse
Siegerrebe 2012 ($18 for 120 cases). This is a refreshing, juicy white with
aromas and flavours of grapefruit and lime. An herbal note and spice on the
nose and on the finish add to the wine’s easy appeal. 88.

Blue Grouse Pinot
Gris 2013 ($18.50). Bailey fermented a small portion in barrel while giving
lees contact to the tank-fermented portion. The object was to give the wine a
fleshier texture and he succeeded. The wine has citrus aromas and flavours of
citrus, pear and herbs. 90.

Blue Grouse Pinot
Noir 2009 ($23 for 253 cases). Five years maturity has given this softened
the wine’s robust tannins. Bottle aging has developed a good Burgundian
complexity, with an earthy note to the cherry aromas. It has flavours of black
cherry, with a spicy finish. This was a gold medal winner at the All Canadian
Wine Awards this spring. 90.

Quill White Wine 2012
(17.00 for 650 cases). This is 52% Pinot Blanc, 34% Ortega, 14% Riesling.
There are aromas and flavours of apple, pear and lime. The wine has a dry
finish, with flavours that linger. 88.

Quill Red Wine 2012 ($19
for 205 cases). This is 47% Cabernet Foch, 21% Maréchal Foch, 21% Merlot and
11% Cabernet Libre. This wine won gold at the All Canadians this spring in the
red hybrids class. The two Cabernet varieties are Blattner hybrids and they
contribute smoky notes to the aroma. On the palate, there are flavours of
cherry, currant and blackberry. There are cedar notes on the dry finish. 88.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Blue Mountain releases two fine 2013 whites

If one needs a reminder of the contribution of mature vines
to good wine, pick up a bottle of Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars’s 2013 Pinot Blanc,
a bargain at $17.90.

The Pinot Blanc vines in this vineyard – two French clones –
were planted in 1985. The variety was the star of the Becker Project, an
industry trial of varietals that ran from 1977 to 1985.

I can’t say that was the sole reason why Ian Mavety planted
the variety on his OkanaganFalls property. Ian
always marches to his own drummer. However, this was the time when he had begun
to transition the vineyard from hybrid varieties to vinifera.

Subsequently, he added Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay
and (in 2006) Sauvignon Blanc. These largely Burgundian choices emerged from
his conclusion that the OkanaganFalls terroir had more in common with Burgundy than with either Bordeaux
or Germany.

The BlueMountain
winery opened in 1992 and has consistently been one of the best in the
Okanagan.

It is interesting that Ian, who can be something of a
contrarian, would stick with Pinot Blanc. As well as the variety grows in the
valley, it has struggled for profile compared with more popular Pinot Gris and
Chardonnay. With some producers, the wines were so bland that I once said that
Pinot Blanc was “the Holiday Inn of wines.”

By comparison, BlueMountain’s
2013 Pinot Blanc is a suite at the Fairmont.
The grapes were whole cluster pressed for greater purity of fruit flavours.
Sixty per cent of the wine was fermented in stainless steel; the other 40% was
fermented and aged six months in four-year-old French oak barrels. The latter
also was aged on the lees, with minimal stirring, for a few months to enhance
the texture. The two lots were blended in May.

This complex wine has aromas and flavours of apples and
peaches, with a slight herbal note on the dry finish. The wine is full on the
palate and the flavours linger a long time. 91.

BlueMountain Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($18.90). Some of
the earlier vintages of this wine had struck me as too austere. Winemaker Matt
Mavety nailed it with this vintage. Again, the grapes were whole cluster
pressed, with 65% fermented in stainless steel while 35% was fermented and aged
four months in French oak (two to four years old). The wine spent a few months
on the lees for texture. The lots were blended in April. This is an elegant wine with aromas and
flavours of grapefruit and with an herbal note that recalls Sancerre. The
texture gives the wine a long rich finish. 91.

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Upper Bench releases blockbuster reds.

Judging from three new red wines, Penticton’s Upper Bench Estate Winery is
being turned around brilliantly by winemaker Gavin Miller and his wife Shana,
an accomplished cheesemaker.

The three reds, all from 2012, can fairly be described as
blockbusters. A Zweigelt, a Pinot Noir and a Merlot, each wine is bold and
packed with fruit.

The estate-grown Zweigelt has been described by another
winemaker as the “best in Canada.”
While I know of only two or three good Canadian Zweigelts, this really is a
superior bottle.

The variety, a red which makes Austria’s best reds, was planted in
this vineyard by Klaus Stadler, the German brewmaster who opened the first
winery on this property in 2001 under the name, Benchland. He released one or
two vintages of Zweigelt. His wine was a lean and simple red. Part of the
problem was that Klaus would not hear of using oak barrels. A stainless steel
brewer through and through, he feared that porous barrels simply were too susceptible
to hosting harmful bacteria.

The Benchland wines had such a lukewarm reception that Klaus
sold the winery in 2004 and returned to Germany. The new owner, Keith
Holman, renamed the place Stonehill Winery. The wines did not improve. In 2010,
Stonehill and Holman’s six other wineries slid into receivership.

Gavin Miller came along the following year. Backed by pulp
and paper tycoon Wayne Nygren, he took over the winery, renaming it Upper Bench
for the street it is on. Previously, Gavin had been a winemaker first at Poplar
Grove and then at Painted Rock. Shana, who had learned her craft at Poplar
Grove, converted part of the winery to cheesemaking.

The back label on each of the newly released reds provides
the clue about why these wines are so satisfying. Gavin has provided the
tonnage of grapes per acre for each wine. The tonnages range between 3 ¼ and 3
¾ an acre. Those are yields that, especially in a fine vintage like 2012,
result in wines that are generous in concentration and ripe in flavour.

And Klaus would be horrified to learn that each wine has
been aged in barrel between 14 and 18 months. The fact is that serious red
wines need barrel aging.

Here are notes on the wines. Consult the winery website for
cheese pairings.

Upper Bench Zweigelt
2012 ($25 for 180 cases). The vines were cropped 3.27 tons an acre. The
wine begins with aromas of plum, blackberry and vanilla. On the palate, there
are flavours of black cherry, black currant, vanilla and liquorice. (The
winery’s notes also speak of Turkish Delight, pomegranate and orange peel.) A
hint of black chocolate emerges on the finish of this richly-flavoured wine.
90.

Upper Bench Pinot
Noir 2012 ($28 for 331 cases). The vines were cropped 3.4 tons an acre.
This is a robust, earthy Pinot Noir with aromas of black cherry and spice. On
the palate, there are notes of raspberry with chocolate and cherry on the
finish. The tannins are smooth, if muscular, leading me to think this will benefit
from three or four years of further age. 89-90.

Upper Bench Merlot
2012 ($30 for 440 cases). The vines were cropped at 3.63 tons an acre. The
wine is a tour de force of aroma and flavour, with a fine concentrated texture.
Dark in colour, it begins with aromas of black cherry, mulberry, and black
currant. On the palate, there are bold flavours of black cherry, spice, vanilla
and chocolate. The alcohol of 14.3% indicates that very ripe grapes were used
(the grapes were picked in early November 2012.) 92.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

The Comox Valley’s 40 Knots Winery changes hands

The largest vineyard and winery in the ComoxValley, 40 Knots Vineyard and Estate
Winery, has just been acquired by a business couple who have moved from Fort
St. John.

This is the second Comox winery that has changed hands this
year. Earlier, film maker James Cameron bought Beaufort Vineyard & Estate
Winery. The two transactions represent a show of confidence in the region’s
small, but growing, wine industry.

The new
owners of 40 Knots, which opened its tasting room just two years ago, are Brenda
Hetman-Craig and Layne Craig.

The news
release from the winery says this about the new owners:

“Hailing from FortSt John, the couple were
seeking to start the next chapter of their lives in Comox. Layne, who grew up
on a Saskatchewan farm, wanted to put his love of the land into play, while
Brenda wanted to put her business management skills toward building a
successful family business, one that would ultimately involve their grown
children. It was an added bonus for Layne, a pilot, that the Comox air force
base is nearby. Planes can often be seen overhead adding to the force of energy
that surrounds the site. The pair met founder Bill Montgomery who was pursuing
retirement and quickly came to an agreement.”

Bill and Michal, his wife, had grown accustomed to planes
overhead since buying this property in 1990 but it clearly is still a thrill
for visitors and for those tending the nearly 40,000 vines here.

Bill (right) also was new to the wine business. Born in Prince Rupert in 1949, he had operated a towboat company
in Vancouver
until he sold it and moved to Comox. He operated a hobby farm for a number of
years before making the plunge and planting vines.

He prepared the 18-acre vineyard on a gravel-rich plateau
above the Powell River Ferry dock, burying drain tiles so that the vines would
not have wet feet. The vines were planted in 2007 and 2008. About a quarter of
the vineyard was Pinot Noir. The other varieties include Chardonnay, Pinot
Gris, Gamay and Merlot. The latter, the result of poor advice from a
consultant, was a startling choice for this cool growing region. When Bill
discovered that Merlot would not ripen, he replaced the vines – about 3,200 –
with Pinot Noir and early-ripening Siegerrebe.

A grandly renovated former barn was turned into a 10,000
square foot winery, However, when the elegant tasting room opened in the summer
of 2012, the Montgomerys
listed the winery and its executive home for $4,900,000. Bill had perhaps
bitten off more than he could chew.

“I am 63 and I wanted to know if there was a market out
there,” he told me in 2012. “I have been living and breathing this place since
I started it. As you are well aware, it is seven days a week. I thought we
would kind of shut it down at the end of November, come back in February, early
March. That’s not the way it works at all. It is 12 months of the year.”

The Craigs appear to be younger and they have lined up some
help. To quote the news release:

“Brenda and Layne will maintain the name 40
Knots Vineyard and Estate Winery. A line-up of Okanagan-grown wines is added
under the name Stall Speed. The pair will be working with Summerland-based
Okanagan Crush Pad winemaker Matt Dumayne, who will assist with viticulture and
work with Vineyard Manager, Lucas Renshaw, on the wine portfolio.

“The new Stall
Speed label, depicting an illustration of the air speed indicator from Layne's
plane, offer a Meritage and a Merlot Icewine.

" ‘The wines that we can craft from Comox-grown grapes
are delicate, aromatic and fresh. Our reason for adding a lineup of wines from
the Okanagan is to allow for some bolder reds and Icewine that we cannot
achieve locally so that we can present something for everyone's taste’, noted
Layne.”

The current 40 Knots portfolio
includes a Chardonnay, a Pinot Gris, a Pinot Noir, a rosé and an aromatic blend
of Pinot Gris and Schönburger called Whitecaps. As well, the winery has a 2010
sparkling wine, Spindrift Brut, made with a classic cuvée of Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir. This wine won a gold medal in a 2013 competition.

Saturday, July 19, 2014

Charlie Baessler’s rosé does his mother-in-law proud

Charlie Baessler, the winemaker for family-owned Corcelettes
Estate Winery in the SimilkameenValley, earned a fine
store of Brownie points last year from his mother-in-law, Joann Laserich.

She owns Ladyhawke Vineyard near Keremeos. The 8.9 acres of
vines, most of them planted in 2007, includes 1,900 Zweigelt vines, along with
Maréchal Foch, Riesling and a little Gewürztraminer.

Last fall, Joann travelled around the Okanagan, trying to
sell her Zweigelt to one or other of the handful of wineries that make wine
from that Austrian red varietal. When she could find no buyer, she appealed to
Charlie. He turned the grapes into an excellent rosé called Oråcle.

Now, who wouldn’t want a son-in-law like that?

Located near Cawston, Corcelettes is a recent addition to
the wineries of the SimilkameenValley. It released its
first wines last year and now offers four wines in its recently opened tasting
room. Visiting hours are 11 am to 5 pm Thursday through Monday (and by
appointment at 250.408.8825).

Here is the profile from my new edition of John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide,
which will be released by the end of July.

Chasselas vines dominate the one-hectare
(2.5-acre) vineyard at the winery, reflecting the Swiss heritage of Urs and
Barbara Baessler and son Charlie, the winemaker. However, this family came to
launch a winery in the SimilkameenValley by a circuitous
route.

“It
all started because my mom and dad on our place in Switzerland had the best blood line
in Simmental cattle,” Urs says. A friendly big-boned man with a booming voice,
Urs explains that his given name means bear; it fits him. Born in 1954, he was
17 when four Manitoba farmers bought six
Simmental heifers from Domaine de Corcelettes, the Baessler family farm on LakeNeuchatel.
Urs accompanied the heifers to Canada, stayed the summer and decided he wanted
to farm here. He spent several years travelling back and forth, learning how to
farm in Canada while
finishing compulsory military service in Switzerland. Staked by his
grandfather with a down payment, Urs and Barbara bought a grain farm near Brandon and grew their
first crop in 1978.

When
wheat prices collapsed in the early 1990s, they diversified with a buffalo farm
in Wyoming.
Urs figures he was 10 years too early. There was little market for farmed
buffalo among consumers who thought he was selling an endangered species. “I
said let’s quit this,” he declared in frustration. “We did not like the winters
either.” He and Barbara moved to British Columbia
in 2007, attracted by mountains reminding them of Switzerland, bought an organic
garlic farm near Cawston and converted it to vines in 2010. “The goal always
was to have some grapes,” Urs says.

The
goal became feasible after son Charlie, born in 1985, completed a degree in
environmental engineering at the University
of Lethbridge and came to
visit his parents, taking a job as a vineyard worker. “Farming chose me,” he
says. In 2008, he joined Burrowing Owl Vineyards, eventually becoming one of
the vineyard managers. The Baessler family decided that Charlie would be their
winemaker, with Charlie learning under the tutelage of Bertus Albertyn, then
Burrowing Owl’s winemaker.

The
winery, with a modest target of 1,500 cases by the fourth year, debuted with
112 cases of Trivium 2012 , a white blend anchored by Chasselas, and 85 cases
of Menhir 2011, a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Menhir is the name for
stone obelisks erected throughout Europe for
ceremonial purposes by prehistoric peoples. A menhir stands on the Baessler
family farm in Switzerland
and Urs intends to erect a similar boulder at the winery.

Since that was written, Charlie has become the vineyard
manager for nearby Clos du Soleil Winery. His wife, Jesce, has become the
tasting room manager for Clos. They juggle these day jobs with helping Barbara
and Urs Baessler run Corcelettes.

Corcelettes bottled 785 cases of wine for the 2013 selling
season. The growth plans are measured and cautious.

“Next year, with our red production and our whites coming
on, we will do closer to 1,000 cases,” Charlie says. “We don’t want to get to a
place too soon where we have to do a lot of additional renovations and add-ons.
We’ll probably do 1,000 to 1,200 cases for the next couple of years and then
look at 1,500 cases; and evaluate the sales and see how interested people are
in the wines.”

Consumers should be interested in these wines, which are
well-made and reasonably priced.

Photo: Sign in Corcelettes vineyard

Here are notes on the wines.

Corcelettes Trivium
2013 ($19.90 for 365 cases). This wine is 50% Chasselas, 36% Gewürztraminer
and 14% Pinot Gris. It begins with aromas of spice and rose petals, leading to
favours of citrus, apple and peach. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.

Corcelettes
Gewürztraminer 2013 ($17.90 for 165 cases). This begins with classic spicy
aromas. A richly textured wine, it has flavours of grapefruit and lychee with a
long finish. 90.

Corcelettes Oråcle 2013 ($17.90 for 125
cases). The red flesh of the Zweigelt grape has given this wine the pink hue of
a Provence
rosé. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and pomegranate, with a spicy,
dry finish. 90.

Corcelettes Menhir
2012 ($24.90 for 93 cases). The wine is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah.
It begins with smoky red berry aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of
black currant, mulberry and plum. The Syrah adds a gamey, earthy not. The long
ripe tannins give this a generous texture. 91.

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Class of 2014: Deep Roots Winery

The Naramata Bench’s bumper crop of new wineries in 2014
(fine and counting) includes Deep Roots Winery, operated by one of the region’s
pioneering farming families.

The Deep Roots tasting room, which opened last month, has
some advantages. It is close to two other wineries, Van Western Vineyards and
Elephant Island Orchard Wines. That sort of critical mass appeals to wine
tourists. Secondly, the compact tasting room, with a second-floor deck,
provides great views over vineyards and OkanaganLake.

More important, there is a warm welcome provided by the
Hardman family, who are the owners, and the other tasting room personnel. Most
important, the wines are well-made and moderately priced.

Here is the profile from the new edition of John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide,
which will be in stores by the beginning of August.

The winery’s name was prompted by the Hardman family’s four
generations on the Naramata Bench. Bryan Hardman’s grandfather came here in
1919 after four years of military service, working initially with pioneer fruit
grower Carl Aikins who once owned about 250 hectares (600 acres).

The Hardmans became
major fruit growers as well. Bryan, who was born in 1950, once owned 20
hectares (50 acres) of apple trees. He was also an industry activist, serving
as president of B.C. Tree Fruits Ltd., the Okanagan’s apple marketing
organization. It is famously tough to make a living with apples, even for a
grower as progressive as Bryan who regularly
embraced trendy new varieties like Gala and Fuji. “Behind any successful farmer around
here, you will find his wife has a good job,” Bryan quips. His wife, Debra, who has a
master’s in clinical psychology, manages the Ministry for Children and Families
in the South Okanagan.

Bryan planted two hectares (five acres) of grapes
in 1996 “just to see if I liked it.” When he did, he gradually replaced his
apple trees with vines and left the apple business entirely in 2010. Now he
owns eight hectares (20 acres) of vineyard and manages another four hectares
(10 acres).

He began thinking
about a winery after his son, Will, who was born in 1983, began working in the
vineyards in 2006. That propelled Will toward winemaking. In addition to taking
course at OkanaganCollege, Will has done crushes with wineries in New Zealand and South Africa. He also worked with
Rob Van Westen where Deep Roots made its 2012 vintage, a total of 13 barrels of
Merlot, Malbec and Syrah. The new Tillar
Road winery was completed for the 2013 harvest when
the winery added Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Gamay Noir to its portfolio.

The winery launched
with just over 1,000 cases of wine, most of which likely will be sold from the
wine shop. The winery has the capacity to produce between 3,000 and 5,000
cases, with Bryan
still selling some of his crop to CedarCreek, among other wineries. Almost all
of the Deep Roots wines are estate grown. “We’re not going to release
anything that we are not proud of,” Bryan
promises.

Deep Roots Chardonnay
2013 ($22). Although 40% of this wine spent time in new French oak, the 60%
that was matured in stainless steel ensures bright, fruit-forward flavours of
peach, pear and papaya. 89.

Deep Roots Rosé 2013 ($19).
Made with Merlot, this wine charms with aromas and flavours of cherry and
strawberry. A touch of residual sugar gives it a juicy texture. 88.

Deep Roots Gamay 2013
($24). This is a lively red, with aromas and flavours of cherries. The
distinctive peppery notes on the finish add complexity to this very quaffable
wine. 88.

Deep Roots Merlot
2012 ($24). This wine begins with aromas of black cherry and black berry.
On the palate, the vibrant flavours include black cherry, black currant and
spice. 89.

Deep Roots Malbec
2012 ($28). One of the wine shop’s personnel calls this a “cowboy wine.”
The characterization is not as offbeat as it seems. The wine is both robust and
rustic, with boisterous aromas and flavours of black cherry, vanilla, plum and
leather. 90.

Deep Roots Syrah 2012
($34). The winery describes this as a “ripe and brooding” cool climate
Syrah. It begins with aromas of blueberries, blackberries and black cherry.
Those carry through to the flavour, along with notes of raspberry. The wine
also shows the classic gamey flavours and the hints of pepper. 90.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Class of 2014: Mocojo Winery

The Naramata Bench now
accounts for almost a quarter of the wineries in the Okanagan.

While such a concentration
of wineries must bring some problems (traffic jams, shortage of hotel rooms), a
wine tourist can set himself or herself up here for a week of exceptional
tasting.

Mocojo Winery, which
opened this spring, can’t do anything about the traffic but it has addressed
the accommodation issue: there is also a bed and breakfast here. Tasting room
hours are limited; call ahead.

Here is the profile of
Mocojo which appears in the soon-to-be released fifth edition of John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.

Kon Oh came to Canada
from South Korea at 16 when
his family moved to Alberta.
It was his father’s background in agriculture that brought Kon to wine
(eventually). In Korea, his
father was a leader in the 4-H movement, an international agricultural youth
movement. That brought him into contact with 4-H members in Alberta. “He got a taste of western culture
and lifestyle and he decided to immigrate to Canada,” Kon says.

The family settled in Lacombe. “When we were going
to school, my father started a little vegetable garden and we were supplying
mostly Korean stores in the city,” Kon says. “We were growing radishes and
cabbages, and stuff like that, for Korean people. We started with a little
greenhouse in the early 1980s.”

After a stint at retail employment, Kon picked up
the family’s bent for agriculture. “The farming life started with vegetables,”
he recalls. “I was not really thrilled to grow vegetables. It is a lot of work.
I spent a year of research to develop the fresh-cut flower business in the
greenhouse. We did that for 10 years, growing fresh-cut roses, competing with
the South American cut flower industry.”

He and his wife Dianne built a successful business,
even with the disadvantage of heating a greenhouse in Alberta’s winters. “We were
working pretty much 24/7 cutting roses,” Kon remembers. Ready for a change in
lifestyle, they closed the flower business in 2008 and bought an established
vineyard near Naramata.

The number of visitors they hosted that summer led
them to develop a bed and breakfast; and the enthusiasm of wine touring guests
prompted the opening of a winery. “The amount of wine that was purchased by our
guests, it was crazy!” Dianne says. There also was the need to add value to the
vineyard’s production. “You know what the vineyard can bring in financially
after five harvests,” she says. “We would like to be a little more
self-sufficient.”

For winemaking, Kon has been mentored by winemaker
Richard Kanazawa, a neighbour and a friend. The debut production in 2013 was
700 cases, including Maréchal Foch, Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Malbec. The
wines are marketed under the Mojoco label, created from the first syllables of
the names of their three children. And Kon is not planning to get much bigger
than 1,000 cases, leaving time for a new interest – a lieutenant in the
Naramata fire department.

Here are notes on the
wines.

Mocojo Gewürztraminer 2013 ($18 for 227 cases). The touch of residual
sweetness will make this popular in the wine shop. The wine has aromas and
flavours of grapefruit and lychee. 88.

Mocojo Viognier 2013 ($20 for 143 cases). For those who don’t care for
the fat and oily style with this variety, this is the ideal wine. It is light
and fresh with aromas and flavours of citrus, apple and mango. The finish is
crisp. 89.

Mocojo Maréchal Foch 2013 ($18 for 300 cases). This was a tank sample but the
wine has since been bottled for release later in summer. It is a soft, juicy
red with black cherry flavours that mingle with a fruitcake spiciness. 89.

Mocojo Malbec 2013 ($24 for 62 cases; October release). This wine
begins with aromas of pepper and cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of
raspberry and cherry, with a light dash of pepper on the finish. 90.

Burrowing Owl and Calliope releases in 2014

Among the new releases from Burrowing Owl Winery, the 2013
wines draw a little extra attention.

That was the first Burrowing Owl vintage for Tom DiBello,
the University of California-trained vintner who spent 10 years at CedarCreek
before leaving in 2010 to consult and to develop his own label.

Consulting went on the backburner in 2013 when he was
offered the cellar at Burrowing Owl, one of the south Okanagan’s most iconic
wineries.

It must have been a comfortable fit. A solid California winemaking
style has been stamped on Burrowing Owl from its first vintage in 1997.
Consulting winemaker Bill Dyer, who had been the winemaker at Sterling
Vineyards, was hired and the first seven vintages were made under his
direction.

He was followed by a succession of winemakers including
Steve Wyse, Scott Stefishen, Jeff Del Nin and, most recently, Bertus Albertyn.
While Steve was mentored by Bill Dyer, Scott and Jeff both trained in Australia.
Bertus is a graduate of South
Africa’s top wine school.

Throughout all those changes, the Burrowing Owl house style
remained remarkably consistent. In part, that is because the vineyard sources
have been consistent and have been farmed very well by Burrowing Owl. However,
the Dyer style still seems clear, especially in the winery’s ripe and
full-bodied reds.

The winery has yet to release any of the reds made by Tom in
2013. Judging from the whites, however, there are no major departures in style
that was not dictated by the vintage.
And the 2013 vintage generally was a good one. Undoubtedly, the wines were
tweaked by Tom. Good winemakers never rest on the laurels of their predecessors.

While that was Tom’s first year working with Burrowing Owl
fruit, he is quite familiar with the south Okanagan terroir. He made some of
CedarCreek’s big reds from that winery’s vineyard just north of Osoyoos. If
memory serves, CedarCreek also had a vineyard southeast of Osoyoos, as does
Burrowing Owl.

The new terroir for Tom probably is the Similkameen. Chris
Wyse, Burrowing Owl’s president, has a vineyard near Keremeos. The fruit for
those vines support production for Calliope Wines, a winery that the Wyse
family launched several years ago. The new Calliope releases include three
delicious whites from the 2013 vintage.

Here are notes on current releases.

Calliope Sauvignon
Blanc 2013 ($13.90). This is made with Similkameen fruit. Refreshing crisp
and tangy, the wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and lime, with herbal
notes on the finish. 90.

Calliope Viognier
2013 ($15.99). This is also made
with Similkameen fruit. The wine begins with aromas of apricot, peach and
pineapple; it delivers flavours of apricot, cantaloupe and citrus. There is a
touch of spice on the dry finish. 90.

Calliope Figure 8
White 2013 ($15.99). This is quite a complex wine at a budget price. It is
a blend of 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 22% Pinot Gris, 21% Viognier, 15% Chardonnay
and 12% Riesling. The Chardonnay was fermented in oak barrels while the
Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in oak puncheons. The other varietals were
fermented cool in stainless steel. The individual wines were blended four
months after vintage and bottle-aged another two months before release. The
wine is vibrantly fresh with aromas of grapefruit, melon and grass. It delivers
flavours of lime, peach and apples, with a backbone of minerals and a dry
finish. 90.

Calliope Rosé 2012 ($13.90).
This is 70% Syrah, 30% Viognier. It has aromas of raspberry and spice, with
flavours recalling raspberry jam. 89.

Calliope Figure 8 Red
2012 ($15.99). This is 54% Merlot, 34% Syrah and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon.
All the fruit in this exceptional vintage came from Burrowing Owl’s Oliver and
Osoyoos vineyards. The wine is generous in texture, with aromas of plums, cherries
and spice herbs. It delivers flavours of black currant, blueberry, cherry and
vanilla with notes of pepper on the finish. 90.

Burrowing Owl Pinot
Gris 2013 ($20). This wine begins with aromas of Asian pears, apples and
nectarines, leading to flavours of pear and grapefruit with notes of herbs and
spice on the dry but refreshing finish. Most of this wine was cool-fermented in
stainless steel but a small portion was barrel-fermented, adding texture and
spice. 90.

Burrowing Owl
Chardonnay 2011 ($25). This wine was barrel-fermented (mostly French oak)
and was left on the lees in barrel for nine months. The lees were stirred every
two weeks to promote the wine’s texture. The oak provides a subtle and elegant
frame around the citrus aromas and flavours of papaya, nectarine and
grapefruit. 91.

Burrowing Owl
Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22). A new wine in the Burrowing Owl portfolio, this
is 88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sémillon. Sixty percent of the wine was
barrel-fermented and a portion was aged in a remarkably complicated selection
of new (7%) and older French oak, along with some American and Hungarian oak.
Here, the winemaker was giving himself a rich palate for blending the final
wine. The wine is luscious with tropical fruit aromas and flavours – lemon,
guava and gooseberry. The creamy texture is balanced against bright acidity.
The finish just doesn’t stop. 92.

Burrowing Owl Merlot
2010 ($30). A wine has the juicy and generous style that is the hallmark of
Burrowing Owl. Savoury on the nose, it has aromas of black cherry, plum and
blackberry. The wine delivers flavours of those fruits and berries, along with
notes of dark chocolate and vanilla. 91.

Burrowing Owl Malbec
2011 ($30 and available only at the winery). This wine also is new in the
Burrowing Owl portfolio, made with fruit from the winery’s Osoyoos vineyard.
The wine begins with aromas of violets, spice and red berries. On the palate,
there are flavours of black cherry and mulberry mingled with notes of spice and
black pepper. Even though the wine has been aged in oak for 20 months (only a
third new), the texture is still firm. It will age well. 90-91.

Burrowing Owl Athene
2011 ($38). This wine was born several years ago when Burrowing Owl had to
top up a half-filled tank of Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah. The wine was a big
hit. Now the grapes – 55% Syrah and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon – are co-fermented
and aged 18 months in barrel. This is a ripe and juicy wine; while 2011 was a
cool year, the grapes were not picked until November 7. To steal another winery’s
quote, this is the steel fist (Cabernet) in the velvet glove (Syrah). There are
aromas of pepper and black cherry, leading to flavours of blackberry, blueberry and cassis. There is a
touch white pepper on the finish. 91.

Burrowing Owl Syrah
2011 ($33). These grapes were also picked late in the season, resulting in
a big ripe wine with 14% alcohol. It has black cherry and vanilla aromas with
black pepper. On the palate, it shows the variety’s classic gamey, leathery
flavours that recall the meat counter of a deli. The texture is rich and
generous. The touch of pepper on the finish wraps up a delicious wine. 91.

Burrowing Owl
Cabernet Franc 2011 ($33). The winery was an early proponent of this
variety, which is now being embraced by many other producers. The appeal lies
in the brambly aromas and flavours – raspberry, blackberry – with touches of
pepper and tobacco on the finish. 91.

Burrowing Owl
Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 ($35). Aged entirely in French oak (30% new), this
elegant wine begins with aromas of black currants. On the palate, there are
flavours of black currant, plum, coffee and cola. The texture is firm; this is
clearly a wine for cellaring at least five more years. 91.

Burrowing Owl
Meritage 2009 ($30 for 500 ml). This wine, almost sold out, is now
available only at the winery. The winery bottled some in half-litre bottles,
thinking that size would be more appealing to restaurants and other consumers than
the usual 750 ml size. The winery skipped bottling that size for 2010 and 2011
but have bottled some 2012 in the smaller bottle. The 2009 Meritage is a
terrific red from a great vintage. This is 38% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon,
23% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. Dark in colour, it begins
with a dramatic aroma of black cherry and cassis. Fruit flavours fill the mouth
with grace notes of coffee and cocoa on the finish. 95.

About Me

John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific writer of books on wine. Since his first book in 1984, The World of Canadian Wine, he has written 15, including multiple editions of The Wineries of British Columba, British Columbia Wine Country and John Schreiner's Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.