From the old guard to emerging talent: fall's most forward-thinking runway looks

From the avant outings at Balenciaga and Chanel to glimpses of fashion's future served up by some heavy-hitting new designers, the fall shows gave us plenty to look forward to.

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Sharper Image: Peter Pilotto

Sharper Image: Peter Pilotto

The London-based label has risen to the top of the fashion pack, thanks to a mix of vision and technical precision. Pilotto is a whiz at digital prints; codesigner Christopher De Vos’ draping skills provide a canvas for his inventions. Together, they’re a force to be reckoned with.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); John Sciull/WireImage (Pilotto)

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Tait Modern: Thomas Tait

Tait Modern: Thomas Tait

After only three short seasons, the UK-based Canadian upstart has quickly become an insider favorite, with a modernist’s eye for proportion and razor-sharp tailoring, not to mention a work-friendly aesthetic, seen this season in the form of elegant trousers and shirting.

Sharper Image: Peter Pilotto

The London-based label has risen to the top of the fashion pack, thanks to a mix of vision and technical precision. Pilotto is a whiz at digital prints; codesigner Christopher De Vos’ draping skills provide a canvas for his inventions. Together, they’re a force to be reckoned with.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); John Sciull/WireImage (Pilotto)

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Tait Modern: Thomas Tait

After only three short seasons, the UK-based Canadian upstart has quickly become an insider favorite, with a modernist’s eye for proportion and razor-sharp tailoring, not to mention a work-friendly aesthetic, seen this season in the form of elegant trousers and shirting.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Jorge Herrera/WireImage (Tait)

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Twin Peaks: The Row

Newly minted CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year winners Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen continue to earn critics’ praise with simple, never showy offerings like this season’s monastic white gown and luxurious trompe l’oeil furs, perfect for fashion’s most discerning shoppers.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Kevin Mazur/WireImage (Olsens)

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The Isolationist: J.W. Anderson

“Chamber of Isolation” was the theme for the Irish-born, London-based wunderkind’s latest outing, an at times lurid, yet quirky, take on preppy basics such as tartan skirts. Anderson’s buzz will hit even higher levels when his capsule collection for Topshop arrives this month.

Imaxtree.com

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Hey, Slick: Pedro Lourenço

The Brazilian newcomer has a way with curves, but he knows when to put on the brakes, too, with an aesthetic that’s both classic and sexy. Known for his graphic use of leather, Lourenço is also a print maven: Russian video artist Kon Trubkovich inspired the moody, static-y graphics he debuted this season.

Imaxtree.com

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The Cool Customer: Hakaan

Turkish-born Hakaan Yildirim juxtaposes futuristic appeal and age-old craft—witness the hip panniers on his dresses. His lineup evoked the ’80s without falling into the dreaded retro trap; he even worked the season’s status item, the sweatshirt, in shiny Me-decade lamé.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images (Yildirim)

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Drape Nut: Haider Ackermann

Fashion followers of the lanky, androgynous persuasion—like number-one red-carpet fan, Tilda Swinton—rely on Ackermann for smart, unfussy appeal. This season, the industry stalwart continued to push his aesthetic forward with expertly draped knits and rich leathers in a Van Gogh–esque autumnal palette.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Victor Boyko/WireImage (Ackermann)

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Perfect Ten: Lanvin

Alber Elbaz may have serenaded the crowd with “Que Sera, Sera” at his tenth-anniversary show, but what he had to offer was hardly more of the same. With chic as his mantra, he sent out a sweet Parisian lineup of punchy colors and feminine shapes. Simply put, Elbaz knows what women want.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Dominique Charriau/WireImage (Elbaz)

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Fresh Coat: Céline

Sure, Philo-philes may have bristled at her fall show’s downsized guest list. (Working around her third pregnancy, the designer opted for a presentation for just the in crowd.) But Céline remains the go-to for those who want to look sharp and take risks without going too far out on a limb. This season, with its strong coats and sharp trousers, was a game changer.

Imaxtree.com (Runway); Charles Eshelman/FilmMagic (Philo)

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Karate Kids: Proenza Schouler

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez always try to answer the question What does the modern New York woman want to wear? They’re at their best when mixing luxury with sporty basics. Case in point: oversize martial-arts–style suits that felt just right for the sophisticated downtown girl. The dojo never looked so chic.