In my 2011 Dmax there is only two spare blanks on LHS of column. It now has 4 switches in it to control aux charging, either manual via latching relay or auto link of batteries using a dpdt centre off switch, linked to another, which is centre off, ON one side and momentary ON the other ie, IT can then be auto link or manual ON each time the momentary is pressed which becomes auto off to protect main battery as ign is turned off.

The other side two switches are: top one, UP is reverse camera vehicle on all the time, centre off, and down is camera ON , only when reverse is selected.Bottom switch selects vehicle rear camera if UP, Centre off and down is caravan camera feed from two sources. By centre off and then DOWN on, alternatively the two cameras on the rear of van can be selected by the on/off action toggling the two camera feeds.8 functions in total. All Jaycar small switches with thin wiring to relays to operate the gear. No heavy wires under dash.EDIT, Got picture small enough.

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Last edited by mydmax on Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

In my 2011 Dmax there is only two spare blanks on LHS of column. It now has 4 switches in it to control aux charging, either manual via latching relay or auto link of batteries using a dpdt centre off switch, linked to another, which is centre off, ON one side and momentary ON the other ie, IT can then be auto link or manual ON each time the momentary is pressed which becomes auto off to protect main battery as ign is turned off.

The other side two switches are: top one, UP is reverse camera vehicle on all the time, centre off, and down is camera ON , only when reverse is selected.Bottom switch selects vehicle rear camera if UP, Centre off and down is caravan camera feed from two sources. By centre off and then DOWN on, alternatively the two cameras on the rear of van can be selected by the on/off action toggling the two camera feeds.8 functions in total. All Jaycar small switches with thin wiring to relays to operate the gear. No heavy wires under dash.

Ok.So how do you get access to the back of the dash and how do you get the damn blanks out.Im reluctant to start pulling things apart until I know I can get them back togeter again.

ValkieAll the vehicles I have ever worked on have the blanks simply clip into the panel. By either levering them out or pushing from the back and in some circumstances, squeezing the lugs together slightly allows the blank to be removed.Not sure how good you are at lying on your back, contorted up under the dash and perhaps using a mirror and LED torch to see the area either directly or mirrored reverse. It can be done. If yours is an auto it is easier because your head will fit up behind the dash with no clutch pedal there. Removing the front seat makes it easier if your are not a petite sized person. A suitable bench at sill level allows you to have your body hanging out the door with less discomfort.I tried to load pics but doesn't want to work. Maybe now it will.

In my 2011 Dmax there is only two spare blanks on LHS of column. It now has 4 switches in it to control aux charging, either manual via latching relay or auto link of batteries using a dpdt centre off switch, linked to another, which is centre off, ON one side and momentary ON the other ie, IT can then be auto link or manual ON each time the momentary is pressed which becomes auto off to protect main battery as ign is turned off.

The other side two switches are: top one, UP is reverse camera vehicle on all the time, centre off, and down is camera ON , only when reverse is selected.Bottom switch selects vehicle rear camera if UP, Centre off and down is caravan camera feed from two sources. By centre off and then DOWN on, alternatively the two cameras on the rear of van can be selected by the on/off action toggling the two camera feeds.8 functions in total. All Jaycar small switches with thin wiring to relays to operate the gear. No heavy wires under dash.

Ok.So how do you get access to the back of the dash and how do you get the damn blanks out.Im reluctant to start pulling things apart until I know I can get them back togeter again.

Pictures please.

The setup looks good, but I have blanks that fit flush to the dash.

Contortionist? I cant even spell the word, even google correct had issues with what i wrote.I are a engibineer, we cant spell and use gramma goodly.

I'm 61 years old, with a broken back.But I do have a boroscope I can use to have a geezer behind the dash.Ill have a go fiddling out the blanks, I get my nice new nudge bar on Wednesday (to mount the spot lights)A bull bar is outside my current allowable spend range.Once I have the lights on, Ill need to wire them up, hence the need to get the blank out.

I got my boroscope out nd behind the dashThere are two locking lugs on the blanks, quite substantial lugs at that.I can get my fingers between the steering column and the dash enough to feel the blank.But not enough to actually touch the locking lugs.The dash appears to be screwed in from behind, so it don't just pull off like most of the cars I have owned.

Can anyone please help and tell me how to get these damn things out.I'm seriously considering attacking them from the front and destroying them to get them out in pieces.Surely there is a better way.

Are you referring to the one which is in the dash surround or the lower one? If it's the dash surround one ...remove the dash surround, it will simply unclip with some force from memory, if it's the lower one use force with a screwdriver wrapped in cloth or tape or as above unclip the surround and reach down. Nobody will have photo's of this. Perhaps take photos yourself and post them here when you figure it out.

Are you referring to the one which is in the dash surround or the lower one? If it's the dash surround one ...remove the dash surround, it will simply unclip with some force from memory, if it's the lower one use force with a screwdriver wrapped in cloth or tape or as above unclip the surround and reach down. Nobody will have photo's of this. Perhaps take photos yourself and post them here when you figure it out.

I had a go at the top one, but (call me chicken) I was reluctant to put any more force into removing the surround.Copious amounts of profanity later, I managed to get the lower one out using the plastic tool kit I purchased for the purpose, it was still rather difficult.

So, now it's outThe lights are fittedThe wiring to the lights from the relay is inThe wiring from the dash to the relay is doneThe wiring from the battery to the relay is done.

But I'm having some difficulty finding a high beam feed.My car had LED headlightsThe plug goes to a 6 pin plug and from there the wires feed into the sealed headlight.I'm reluctant to cut into any of these wires, because they are seriously thin wires.

I have tried to get a piggy back from various loom providers, they all say no.I went to Isuzu spares today, they will sell me a $130.00 loom for the purpose, but can't guarantee that it will fit my LED headlight wiring.

Anyone who has had their 2018 or later MUX (with LED headlights) fitted with driving lights, please let me know where the feed from high beam came from.

Valkie.Good work so far. I am not familiar with exact layout of the vehicle but imagine, if similar to previous Isuzu's, there should be a high beam relay which powers the LED drivers for high beam. It surely has a neg connection, ànd a power IN to switch on it's coil. That positive feed may be able to found and used, to run the Led bar relay switching circuit. That way each time high beam is selected a small amount of current will go through the Led bar selector switch and operate the Led bar relay.

If colours are the same at the LED driver input, you may be able to tap into the powered/switched +ve wire which leaves the high beam relay.

Not sure what investigation is possible but worth looking.

I hate cutting into wires. Therefore, I have sometimes found the correct relay pin which becomes powered when HB is selected and simply wound the bare ends of thin wire around that terminal on the relay, making sure it cannot touch anything else.. Plug it back in and use the wire to drive the Led bar relay. Is the Led bar relay a diode protected relay? It may be wise to use such a relay so no switch OFF spikes of voltage are presented to any circuits. Many relays today have that feature for safety of other circuits. Probably not a feature of a the supplied light bar relay though.

Valkie.Good work so far. I am not familiar with exact layout of the vehicle but imagine, if similar to previous Isuzu's, there should be a high beam relay which powers the LED drivers for high beam. It surely has a neg connection, ànd a power IN to switch on it's coil. That positive feed may be able to found and used, to run the Led bar relay switching circuit. That way each time high beam is selected a small amount of current will go through the Led bar selector switch and operate the Led bar relay.

If colours are the same at the LED driver input, you may be able to tap into the powered/switched +ve wire which leaves the high beam relay.

Not sure what investigation is possible but worth looking.

I hate cutting into wires. Therefore, I have sometimes found the correct relay pin which becomes powered when HB is selected and simply wound the bare ends of thin wire around that terminal on the relay, making sure it cannot touch anything else.. Plug it back in and use the wire to drive the Led bar relay. Is the Led bar relay a diode protected relay? It may be wise to use such a relay so no switch OFF spikes of voltage are presented to any circuits. Many relays today have that feature for safety of other circuits. Probably not a feature of a the supplied light bar relay though.

Very detailed explanation Sadly , wasted on this dummy.But what I do have is two fuses 1 for L/H high beam and one for R/H high beam.I purchased a piggy back fuse to try and tap into this fuse ( idea from someone else not me)Unfortunately, my fuses are micro mini fuses, not mini fuses, so my local electronics store has none.I purchased a couple on eBay tonight, but it will be a week before I get them.I'm also concerned that they may not fit.It's pretty tightly packed in the fuse box, and the piggy back fuse has a wire that comes out the side.Out the top would be ideal, but I can't get one, I may have to modify it to suit.

But ideally, I'd love to get a piggyback for the headlight plug.I'm talking to Isuzu on Monday, hopefully they have something, preferably cheaper than $130.00.

Valkie.Just hang on a minute, you are not a dummy, you have found most items and just require some other info.

If there is a high beam relay, ie, labelled as such in the lid of fuse box, then it will have (most likely 4 pins), two small and two larger. One of the small ones will be directly connected to negative. The one of those in the base, which is connected to negative is the earthing for the relay coil, the other will become +ve when the stalk switch is set for high and also when HB flash is performed. If you can test those two base socket holes with a multi meter set on 12v and it turn on and off the meter reading with low to high selection then all good. That +ve wire or pin on relay may then be used for the activation of the Led bar relay, either by splicing into the wire or as I mentioned a few strands of wire wrapped only around that pin on the relay would suffice. If when you select high beam from low beam and the relay clicks, then it is probable you can use it in this way so as to not alter anything but still obtain a Led bar relay coil feed.

Hope this makes sense.

If you think the wires going to the LED headlights controller can be used, one of them must originate from the main loom and high beam signal. Obviously the wires going from there to the headlights are not the ones, only those which come from the loom, if identified, one of them has to be positive only when high is ON. With a very sharp multimeter probe, ie, pin window sharp, it can be probed while switching between Low/High beam to check if it is the positive high beam signal.All a bit of fiddling though.

Asking Isuzu or motor houses for bits to do it is often beyond them and they have no idea. it would be god if someone has a circuit diagram, that always helps.

With the two fuses you have identified, do they become on and off when high and low are alternately selected or are both ON all the time the headlights are turned on. If alternating, the High can be used with piggy back. Lacking piggy back fuse, You can use a normal blade fuse and file one side near top so a thin wire can be soldered to it, that becomes your signal wire

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