Description

This area is not well-known for its ice or rock climbs. There are rumors that circulate about fickle ice here which may include four or more ice routes on the N side of the canyon. Going downstream, the routes may be WI5, 50ish m; Defecation Gully aka Poop Coop, WI5 M5 A1; Huey, WI4?; Luey, WI4? It may be possible to check on the ice from the S rim of the canyon. There are probably access issues, so keeping a low profile is wisest. Defecation Gully can be quite long at up to 6 pitches. The others are shorter, 1 pitch in length.

Getting There

Approach by driving to Canon City, US 50 W of Pueblo or E of Salida. Go towards where US 50 crosses over the Arkansas River close to Parkdale, which is W of Canon City. Go S on 61 Rd (p. 71 of Colorado Atlas & Gazetteer) to its end, which appear to be the start of BLM land. This road is W of the Royal Gorge bridge. Park legally. Hike 1 1/2 mi? Alternatively, you can risk the access issues by going to Parkdale, find legal parking, walk downstream near the tracks about 2 1/2 miles to the climbs.

This may be one of the longest ice routes in the Front Range. It lies just upstream from the cog railway. The line has an ominous name and its water source may be questionable. Birds may reside or habitate this area and may affect the experience. Dont lick your picks. If this bothers you, dont climb it. The climbing ascends 6 pitches in a deep chimney/gully with chockstones up to the North Rim and near its source. It is somewhat reminiscent of Skylight. Descent anchors may or may not ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO