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if you have an electric cold start valve make sure to unplug it and if keeps apling fuel with electrical conector unpluged that means the valve is not good, but if not then you have an electronic problem, possible a bad cold start sensor or cold start module or cicuit problem, and might be a time to take it to an electrical shop

These International engines can be difficult to diagnose without the proper tools; namely Ford's I.D.S., or Navistar's DLC.

As for the o-ring the dealer was hinting at, they may have meant the o-ring on the fuel injection pressure regulator. I have witnessed these leak and cause difficult or no starting. This component is located at the rear of the engine below the turbo exhaust supply tubes. A specialty socket is needed to replace it (35mm 12 point socket which resembles an O2 sensor socket), although replacement is most likely unnecessary considering that your vehicle does eventually start. If this were indeed the culprit, your engine would not start. There is a test port next to this regulator to test oil pressure (bolt with allen head relief). A high pressure gauge which reads greater than 5,000 psi is necessary to test at this port. When your engine doesn't start, try checking what the oil pressure is at this port. A minimum of 3,000 psi is needed for the engine to start and 5,000 psi is prefered

Other sources of this problem could be the intake air temperature sensor, oil temperature sensor, or wiring compromises. It's a shame the dealer didn't want to spend the time necessary to pinpoint your problem. So glad I'm out of that crooked industry.

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You could have a faulty engine coolant sensor or intake air temperature sensor. Fuel injectors clogged or dirty flooding engine. Clean fuel injectors, replace fuel filter and air filter, and see if the problem persists.If it does ECT sensor is bad. If CMP sensor was bad, the vehicle won\'t start whether cold or hot. CKP senso and CMP sensor work together if either one fails, the vehicle won\'t start. Have the vehicle code scanned.

Could be a relay or other electrical issue.You say it has fuel pressure and spark, if that were true it should run.So it either does not have enough spark to fire the plugs under compression, or not enough fuel pressure going thru the injectors, or not at the right time.You might want to check for trouble codes in the computer. There has to be something missing from the equation when it won't start. You may have to check all of the plugs for fire and try some carb cleaner sprayed into the intake to boost fuel supply to find the issue.

.When the injectors leak they flood the engine and holding pedal to the floor or waiting hours for fuel to dissipate. See if you have spark and fuel when it wont run. If there is no spark check the electronic control module under the cap

This can be fuel pump related or just fuel filter related, spark plugs and injectors. When engine is cold vaporization of gasoline is minimum. When fuel vapor is less than required and the fuel mixture is not ideal, ignition happens harder than it does under ideal running conditions of engine. When fuel pups is sweak, or filter is limiting, or fuel injectors are not injecting gasoline with improper pattern inside engine, or just becasue of corroded spark plugs, cold engine faces difficulties during first ignition.

PS: sometimes car starts and stalls.it fails to start once more. this can be a sign of broken crank position sensor. FYI.

If it won't start while cold, it could be the cold start fuel injector is not working or clogged. Check also for a large vacuum leak which could be diluting the fuel mixture. Check for a bad MAP or MAF sensor.

If it won't start hot, look for leaking fuel injectors or an engine coolant temperature sensor disconnected, the wires to it broken, or a faulty sensor. If the engine coolant temp sensor is stuck at full cold (which it would be if disconnected), it will tell the computer the wrong engine temp and the computer will schedule too much fuel for a hot start leading to flooding.