Officially Ca' d'Oro, this place is known by locals as Alla Vedova - the Widow's Place. The widow has joined her marito, but her family still runs the show. And the traditional brass-pan and wooden-table decor and the warm, intimate atmosphere remain. Tourists head for the tables (it's best to book), where tasty pasta dishes (like spaghetti in cuttlefish ink) and secondi are served, while locals stay at the bar snacking on classic cicheti, including the best polpette (meatballs) in Venice.

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We had dinner there a few nights ago. We arrived before the doors opened at 18:30 and managed to get a table for 19:00. Whilst we waited we had there famous polpette. Which were o.k., a little salty, and lacking in depth of flavour. Than our pastas arrived, and I have to say, I was not blown away. My pasta a la vongole, was beautifully al dente, but swimming in oil, and ho hum, whilst my partners typical Venitian pasta with anchovies, was very strong in the onion, and 'gluggy'. Stick to a little glass of wine and polpette, and than move on!