Beyond the Buffet

A steakhouse standby, long taken for granted, is back on form

Dec. 28, 2012 2:25 p.m. ET

SHRIMP, ACID, SPICE—it's a time-honored combination. Ancient Romans spruced up their shrimp with vinegar, celery salt and fish sauce; by the early 20th century, a zesty ketchup-based dip had become the de rigueur accompaniment, but it wasn't until the 1920s that the name shrimp cocktail was dreamed up (to appeal to those thirsty for the other kind). When done right, this iconic appetizer is delicious, yet it has acquired an image problem in recent decades through its association with bad buffets and middling steakhouses. "It's one of those simple dishes that can be really good, but can also be...