The biggest problems for internal combustion engines are initial lack of lubrication on initial startup along with the fact that gasoline is a solvent.

this is an important point. when i had a larger 911 capable standby power generator installed, the tech set the exercise cycle for every 7 days. their experience was that 'leak down' took 10 days before the surfaces were free of lubricant.

OK, this thread has now become a BMW thread, and, OMG, yet another oil thread!
.

Reminds me, what tires are you guys running on your BMWs?

Just kidding!!

Have any of you Tundra guys done anything to your rear suspension to smooth out the ride? There's a post on a Tundra website about replacing the rear bushings in the shackle. It's supposed to improve the "bounce" quite a bit. I'm coming from a 2011 4 Runner, and I've put a lot of miles on a Tacoma (so I've experienced a semi rough ride) it just seems when I'm running empty, on a crappy road (concrete sections that are uneven) I get some serious bounce.

I've read installing air bags and setting to about 10lbs helps but I haven't installed them. For the most part I haven't felt the ride was that bad. I have to admit on Highway 69 going south through Oklahoma from Missouri to DFW the ride was not comfortable in sections on that terrible road. Mine is 2wd 2010 Tundra Double Cab.

I installed air bags on my '08 Tundra 2wd right after I bought it 2 years ago. The tongue weight on my coach is just over 700#'s. I run 25#'s of air in the bags when hitched. There should always be at least 10#'s in the bags when the truck is empty or not towing.

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Have any of you Tundra guys done anything to your rear suspension to smooth out the ride? There's a post on a Tundra website about replacing the rear bushings in the shackle. It's supposed to improve the "bounce" quite a bit. I'm coming from a 2011 4 Runner, and I've put a lot of miles on a Tacoma (so I've experienced a semi rough ride) it just seems when I'm running empty, on a crappy road (concrete sections that are uneven) I get some serious bounce.

In a TD it's easy enough to add significant weight to the bed ahead of the rear axle and not much affect fuel mileage in order to "help" the ride. On a gasser, not so. New and/or higher quality shock absorbers in concert with weighing wheel positions to nail best tire air pressure will do the most.

Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks are favorites of some.

The same discussion comes up about the CTD Dodge. I found that adding a rear and upsizing front antiroll bars made the RR crossing motions more controlled. Short of major suspension changes which lower the ability to do work, the following are sometimes recommended. Even if not available for Tundra, they are the type of inexpensive aids which retain OEM capacities:

Sulastic rear shackles (the BFGoodrich Velva-Ride for you old hands)

Mor/Ryde RS rear shackles

From here, discussions go to air ride rear springs, air spring rear shackle enhancements, or auto level kits with specially valved shocks such as Firestone R4Tech or Keldermann or Tow Pride. Expensive.

Same for air ride seats. National Seat has kits for some of our light duty trucks. Also expensive.

2010 and later CTD Dodge trucks have hydraulic body mounts. Retrofit is with some fabrication. So, another avenue of investigation for Tundra.

We're it mine I'd chase after tire choice and shocks. Stock size, but highest quality, such as Michelin LTX A/T2.

I installed air bags on my '08 Tundra 2wd right after I bought it 2 years ago. The tongue weight on my coach is just over 700#'s. I run 25#'s of air in the bags when hitched. There should always be at least 10#'s in the bags when the truck is empty or not towing.

Weigh truck at four corners with full fuel, driver and permanent gear aboard. That is solo empty weight.

Work the tire pressures carefully; calibrated gauge. A 10% rise after two hours steady state means bring it up 5-psi. Maintain FF/RR bias on pressure. Per axle tire pressure is from heaviest position. Low as possible with testing.

Check again with WDH applied.

If "bed bounce" means bad ride, but not crow hop, then a drivers seat cushion will help. Oregon Aero, or WonderGel SuperCushion.

Erect posture, too.

There will be a correlation between fat boys and complaints re bad ride as most do not sit upright or avoid leaning to one side.

With feet flat on floor behind pedals and knees relaxed adjust seat for no thigh pressure at edge. Hands at two and four with elbows relaxed. Mirrors adjusted for peripheral vision, not head turning. Nearly everyone sits too far back.

Best tires at best pressure with best posture minimizes truck actions when best shock absorbers are used.

SteveH: the 10# in the air bags has no effect on the ride of the Tundra. A minimum pressure is recommended by Firestone. I believe it is to prevent "scrubbing" of the bladders. Which could cause a hole.
But that is just my guess.
I check the air bag pressure each time I check tire pressure.

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I've read installing air bags and setting to about 10lbs helps but I haven't installed them. For the most part I haven't felt the ride was that bad. I have to admit on Highway 69 going south through Oklahoma from Missouri to DFW the ride was not comfortable in sections on that terrible road. Mine is 2wd 2010 Tundra Double Cab.

Do you have 4x4 and the TRD package?

Kelvin

Mine is a 4x4, but not the TRD package. I've got a set of air bags I bought foe the Tacoma, but never used them. Maybe they will work on the Tundra..