Roper electric dryer

I have the 7 cycle super capacity. Check breaker,plug, door switch, all thermal fuses have continuity. I have power to the drive motor plug and the black block on the motor has a thermal fuse as well with good continuity. Could that block be bad? or Is this probably the motor? Can I jump the block to test the motor?

Go back to timer ck continuity with timer in any run postion from black to blue wire (i think..better ck wiring diagram under console..you're looking for the contacts in timer to make that control motor)

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Related Questions:

see this causes and fix it. God bless youCheck to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not,
check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long.
It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic
housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your
dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and
the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

see this causes , fix it. God bless you, use the common senseCheck to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not,
check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long.
It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic
housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your
dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and
the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

remove back cover then locate the blower housing in the back,its round on this is a thermal fuse appx. 1" X 1/4" with 2 wires from it,this is the thermal fuse test it,if its open on continuity its bad and the dryer wont operate the pat number is FSR# 3392519

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixyaIf your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:Power from the houseCheck
to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If
you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check
for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.Door switchIf
the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. To
determine if the door switch has failed, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
Thermal fuseOn
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in
black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the
fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer
either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the
dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) To
determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
WiringOften
the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the
connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to
replace the power cord and the terminal block that it is attached too

If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it's blown, then it needs to be replaced.

Now, check the igniter, there is a plastic connector attaching the igniter to the burner. Disconnect this and place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. If the reading is above 100 ohms then igniter is bad. If the igniter passes the test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible. Hope this helps...

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.

2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the
door switch if found defective.

Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a
dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door
switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and
the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch
assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there
is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and
just the lever. Check your model for more details.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a
hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the houseCheck to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

WiringA common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.