Perhaps even both bearing and shock absorbers need to be replaced. It's easy to tell for any experienced DIY without disassembling the machine.Perhaps even both bearing and shock absorbers need to be replaced. It's easy to tell for any experienced DIY without disassembling the machine.

Don't you worry at all about how long the machine will run after those parts are replaced. When it matters solely those replaced parts it will take years before they need to be replaced again. It is normal that those parts quack. Those parts can be replaced not just once but several times in a lifetime of the machine. If the rest of machine is in good condition there is no question about if replacement of shock absorbers and bearing will pay up or not.

Don't you worry at all about how long the machine will run after those parts are replaced. When it matters solely those replaced parts it will take years before they need to be replaced again. It is normal that those parts quack. Those parts can be replaced not just once but several times in a lifetime of the machine. If the rest of machine is in good condition there is no question about if replacement of shock absorbers and bearing will pay up or not.

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Related Questions:

Did you set the back feet before leveling? On most units to set and lock the back feet you need to pull the top towards you so that the back is raised off the floor, then set it down again, this will release the feet and lock then down. The you level the two front feet. After this is done you must make sure your load is balanced. Distribute the items as evenly as you can in the tub. Once it gets to the spin cycle if its walking or shaking a lot, stop it and redistribute the items more evenly in the tub. Also try not to overload the unit or combining many heavy items with few light ones. If this is a new machine, did you remove the shipping locks from the back before using it? They have plastic strips attached to them, make sure they have all been removed, as well as any shipping bolts.

Your machine is probably not standing perfectly level. To level the machine, partly fill it with water. Make sure that the drum is standing in the middle of the machine and then adjust the machine until the water is at the same level all around at the nearest set of holes to the water. Check that the drum is still in the center of the outer drum. Make sure that the adjusting feet are all firmly on the floor and that you cannot rock the machine at all by hand. A top loader must be 100% level or it will shake.

To level the machine, partly fill it with water. Make sure that the drum is standing in the middle of the machine and then adjust the machine until the water is at the same level all around at the nearest set of holes to the water. Check that the drum is still in the center of the outer drum. Make sure that the adjusting feet are all firmly on the floor and that you cannot rock the machine at all by hand. A top loader must be 100% level or it will shake.

The list to the right should be resolved. Use a level and level the case left and right, and front to back. The final step is to tilt the machine fully on to the front legs, releasing the self leveling rear legs, and set the machine back down. It should be stable on the 4 feet.

usually this will center the drum and it is more forgiving on balance issues, most of which are common. Be sure to use MORE than enough water for more even loads.

Hi, Well it sounds like either one of the tension springs that hold the outer clear tub to the frame down below came off or broke, or that the basket or gearbox shaft is warped. One other thing to try is the back feet on those washers are spring loaded to take out some of the vibration, if those feet arent level it will make the washer shake. it is easy to reset those so they are level. Stand infront of the washer and grab the back of the unit and pull it towards you so that you raise the rear legs, then simply set it back down. To check the spring you will have to take the outer shell off and look at the springs that are at the bottom of the tub assembly holding the tub down on the frame. Good luck and I hope I was some help.

1 option is to wind the back feet out so the washer drum will sit more to the front so as it less likly to hit the OOB switch, other thing is that the OOB switch might have corrosion on the inside of it and in this case if it gets moisture inside it during a wash it is more likely to go OOB, so try replacing it this should fix issue, if not replace Motor Control Unit. :)

This solution applys to many Maytag washing machines. Perhaps not all.
Maytags have three damper pads in the bottom of the machine that must be lubricated from time to time. If they are not, they can be ripped off. They are glued to the bottom of the machine, the drum rests on top of them. When they become dry or lost, the machine shakes violently and no amount
of leveling or load balancing will fix it. Replace and/or lubricate the pads and magically it works again.

This is not a difficult repair for those that have modest mechanical skills and a few basic tools.
replacement pads and lube come in an inexpensive kit.n