MacB, you know I love you man but lack of usable adjustment is a symptom of a long soft top out spring because you use up most of your pre-load adjustment range just compressing the top out spring and very little of it's range actually adding pre-load to the main spring.

Sorry I didn't mean to say it was one way or another. I was really trying to make it clear that the answer is not to add more preload to set your sag. Also I can assure you my 09 does not have a long top out spring as my preload adjustment responds almost directly to my sag numbers. So I'm betting there is either a lot of changes over time or that the spring rates they use for top out and main spring aren't very good and aren't always to the rated spec. I actually predict the latter is the most likely since this occurs on most brands.

I wonder if they changed the fork spring over the years. When I set my sag I weighed 180lbs and I got 30mm with 3 lines showing. You're getting 36mm with the same weight with only 1 line?

As for soft top out that may be the case but I'm still within a quarter inch of bottoming at the track with only 30mm of sag. With the stock springs 180lbs really is near the upper weight limit for aggressive track riding.

I forget the source but I recall reading that the spring rates on the Daytonas were stiffer compared to the StR and my feeling is the springs are softer and more suited to my weight.
Does that sound right?

Suspension setup is all dependant to the rider. Its not a universal thing. As you get faster your suspension setting will change as well. What you have one weekend may feel way different the next weekend. I know when i started riding on the track after about my third track day i was changing settings on my street bike. It is also dependant upon weather. As it gets colder or warmer your suspension will soften or stiffen because of the change of density of the oil. (Becomes more fluid when warm) i am personally running a set of gold valves in my front forks with olhins oil and springs for my weight and a 602 olhins rear shock. Works pretty well.

Suspension setup is all dependant to the rider. Its not a universal thing. As you get faster your suspension setting will change as well. What you have one weekend may feel way different the next weekend. I know when i started riding on the track after about my third track day i was changing settings on my street bike. It is also dependant upon weather. As it gets colder or warmer your suspension will soften or stiffen because of the change of density of the oil. (Becomes more fluid when warm) i am personally running a set of gold valves in my front forks with olhins oil and springs for my weight and a 602 olhins rear shock. Works pretty well.

Valid point, so true. Rider skill, weight, road/track conditions, etc, etc, all these variables affect handling for sure.
What works for one rider may not work for another. There's no single, magic set-up.

However, the common element of control would be a bike with stock suspension which probably describes a fair number of bikes on this forum.
The point of sharing info here allows us to establish a baseline set-up from which to start. From there, we can fine tune our set-up and/or modify our suspension to best suit us individually.

It's safe to say, we're able to benefit from each others knowledge, trials and errors.

...
The point of sharing info here allows us to establish a baseline set-up from which to start. From there, we can fine tune our set-up and/or modify our suspension to best suit us individually.

It's safe to say, we're able to benefit from each others knowledge, trials and errors.

I thought this way too - and started such a thread for those of us that performed the D675 fork swap. My idea was pretty much shot to hell. At least the R owners have a factory baseline in the manual to start with. Try throwing a set of D675 forks on without a decent reference point.