Our goal: For the dozen dishes under $15, we avoided small
plates, which have become increasingly common on local menus, and sought
out substantial servings, some big enough to split. We included classics
on the list, jambalaya and smoked chicken, for instance, but also
entrees that illustrate how sophisticated food doesn’t have to be
prohibitively priced.

Crescent Pie & Sausage Co. chef Bart Bell grew up eating jambalaya that varied with the seasons. Duck, venison, turkey, whatever was on hand, or whatever came back from the hunt, often made it into the pot. The dish was a thrifty way to use leftover meats. His dad often threw in some black-eyed peas. The jambalaya at Crescent Pie & Sausage Co. is akin to that type of cooking. It’s mahogany brown, richly spiced and loaded with braised pork, chicken, andouille, chaurice, smoked sausage and, yes, black-eyed peas. Each pot can have slight variations, depending on what Bell has been cooking that day. Sometimes the chicken is smoked; sometimes, roasted. The rice is loose, rather than sticky, and permeated with broth and seasoning. There’s no trace of tomato, a nod to Bell’s Cajun Country upbringing. The jambalaya comes in a cup or bowl. Get the bowl. Everyone at the table is going to want a bite.