El Takanakuy

Takanakuy is a traditional festival in the province of Chumbivilcas, Cusco, Peru. The festival is thought to have originated in colonial times, due to the social unrest that was prevalent in those times and the type of costumes used during the festival.

Takanakuy is a combination of two Quechua words: “taka,” which means to hit, and “nakuy,” to do something mutually. In simple terms, Takanakuy is about settling disagreements through controlled fights.

The event occurs once each year on Christmas day. This day is special for many villagers as a chance to resolve problems and disputes over love, territory, or even robbery and other crimes. While the festival sounds mostly violent, I was able to appreciate its significance as a child while living in a highland community, Santo Tomas, the capital of the province of Chumbivilcas. Here, the men are divided into two groups based on their neighbourhood, one that fights for the prodigal son and the other for the Virgin Mary. Like many festivals in Peru, there is a mesh of Andean and Catholic traditions. Dressed in knit masks, “k’araguatanas” (chaps) over their pants, and flannel shirts, the men emerge dancing and singing the melody of the llama (“Waylia”), a song of love and disagreements that is repeated throughout the party. The procession ends in the bullring and there the fights begin, supervised by a referee and the “Wiqch’upa” (allies). Only kicks and punches are allowed, and the fight ends when someone falls to the ground. The end of the fight marks the end of the disagreement. In more recent times, women and children participate in the tradition also.

Chumbivilcas is a remote province of Cusco, full of traditions and festivities of proud Qorilazos, as the local men are called, and fierce women.