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1. Angle for your bike

On a full-suspension bike, it can be good to tip the nose down slightly, to compensate for the fact that the rear suspension sags considerably further than the fork when you’re sat in the saddle.

2. Twin-bolt clamp

2. Twin-bolt seatpost systems are the most common

If your seatpost has a twin-bolt clamp (skip to step 6 if you have a single-bolt post) and you want to tilt the saddle nose down, use the correct size Allen key (usually 5mm) to loosen the rearmost bolt a few turns (anticlockwise).

A twin-bolt seatpost

*There are various ways of securing a saddle to a seatpost, but this system – where bolts at the front and rear of the seatpost head are tightened to clamp the saddle rails in place – is the most common, due to its versatility and robustness.

To tilt the nose up, loosen the front bolt.

3. Set the fore/aft position

3. Set the fore/aft position

While the bolts are loose, think about adjusting the fore-aft position of the saddle.

Sliding it forwards will give your bike a steeper effective seat tube angle, making it feel more eager on the climbs.

Moving it back will make the cockpit feel roomier on flat terrain.

4. Adjust and tighten

4. Adjust and tighten

If you loosened the rear bolt in step 2, tighten the front one (clockwise), and vice versa.

To drop the nose down further, loosen the rear bolt some more (anticlockwise) and then re-tighten the front one (clockwise).

Do the opposite to lift the nose higher.

5. Check the torque

5. Check the torque based on the maufacturer's recommendations

Once you’re happy with the saddle angle and fore-aft position, tighten each bolt alternately until both are done up tight.

If possible, look up the seatpost manufacturer’s recommended torque settings for these bolts, and tighten to their specifications.

6. Single-bolt post

6. Single-bolt post

On a single-bolt post, use the correct size Allen key to loosen the clamp bolt (anticlockwise) until the mechanism moves freely.

Adjust the angle of the saddle, and the fore-aft position too if necessary, and then re-tighten the bolt (clockwise) to the correct torque.

7. Check the position

7. Go for a ride to check the position

Go for a ride. If the saddle is too high at the front, you may find it a strain to hold yourself forwards on climbs.

Too high at the back, and it may dig into your behind or put strain on your wrists (because you’re having to push back on the bar to maintain your position on the saddle).

Seb is a geeky technical writer for BikeRadar, as well as MBUK and What Mountain Bike magazines. Seb's background in experimental physics allows him to pick apart what's really going on with mountain bike components. Years of racing downhill, cross-country and enduro have honed a fast and aggressive riding style, so he can really put gear to the test on the trails, too.