Tag Archives: BOM

This is our last month together working on Bakers Dozen. I have really enjoyed the journey, and I loved working with all of you.

If you are interested, we are offering Jen’s latest Template of the Month, Golden Days. We still have openings in our May group, so I hope you decide to join us. Click here to sign up.

By this time, you are getting down to the bare bones of your fabric for this project. The pattern called for 8 yards of a variety of fabrics, and 7/8 yd for the inner border and binding. If you have run out of fabric, please let me know. You can always add some of your own stash for the Corner Block Strips.

Having said that, this is where I used some of my smaller scraps for the triangles:

Harlequin Blocks found on pages 23 -25. Make (8)

***Please Note:

Each block has (2) T13 and (2) T13 rev. Make sure you have these in the right place before you sew, or your block will not fit.

The drawing in the pattern make T16 and T17 look identical – They are not!

Once again, I suggest you cut all your pieces out and place them on your work table. Sew section by section to avoid confusion.

Finished Harlequin Blocks:

Corner Blocks found on page 26. Make (4)

I don’t have much insight on this block as it is pretty straight-forward. The photo in the pattern shows each corner block with the same strips in the same order. I did not have enough fabric to accomplish this. I used what I had left, and I’m very happy with the result.

Finished Corner Blocks:

Quilt Assembly:

This quilt is at its essence a center medallion with pieced borders. The biggest problem with assembling this type of quilt is that each border has to fit exactly. You may have to ease (sometimes quite a bit) in order to make this happen.

When I started to add the 2nd pieced border (the one with the Checkerboard Blocks) I actually ended up removing a row from two of my Checkerboard blocks to make this row fit. I would challenge anyone to look at my finished quilt and see that I did that.

12” Star Block with Cross is found on page 16. This block is pretty straightforward so I don’t have any special knowledge or instructions.

For each block, you need four foundation pieced corner squares for a total of 32! As I mentioned before, I did not make sure each corner piece was identical, I felt it would be too much to ask of myself to keep track of which strip went where. If you want to make sure each corner is the same, you will need to make them four at a time.

For me, I decided to make all 32 at the same time. Actually, we will need another 16 for the 12” Eight Pointed Star blocks, so we’ll need 48 in total.

I don’t know if it is easier, but I decided to draw my diagonal lines across the whole sheet, and then cut the squares 4” x 4”

Any extra pieces I used to add to blocks that needed a corner filled in

Here’s my pile of 4” x 4” striped pieces

Eight Pointed Star Block 12” is found on page 27. This is the same block we made in Month 1. The only difference is this block is 12”. If you need a refresher on ‘Y’ seams, and set in seams, please refer to this information found in Month 1. Also, remember that we posted videos with some helpful tips on this on the HeartSong Facebook page and on the Bakers Dozen Quiltalong with HeartSong Facebook page.

As I mentioned before, you will need four foundation pieced 4” x 4” corner blocks for each block, for a total of 16.

Unfortunately, I neglected to take a picture of any of these blocks before I put them all together. No reason, I just forgot.

We are almost there! What a fun and challenging journey this has been. Thanks for going with me.

This is our final month, and we are making (9) Black Cockatoo Blocks. The instructions for the pinwheel and filler blocks are also included as well as finishing instructions in this month’s information.

Black Cockatoo Block: *The pattern for this block is a mirror image of the colored photos in the quilt. I’m a visual person (as most quilters are) and this threw me.

I made a copy of the block at the bottom of page two and wrote the template numbers on each piece.

The other thing that bugged me was the T50/T47 diagram. With all my reference photos reversed, I had a really hard time until I rotated the unit to the position that it appears in the block. I don’t know if any of that makes sense, but hopefully the photo will help.

Once I laid out the pieces correctly, it was just a matter of sewing them together.

I have no good advice on pressing the seams, so I’ll leave that up to you.

Finished blocks:

Filler Blocks – Pinwheels – make 31 blocks.

The pattern instructions are pretty straight forward, and after all the blocks we’ve made, pinwheels are easy.

I only have one tip I’d like to add and you can take it or leave it. If you cut (2) contrasting fabrics at 3 ¼” x 3 ¼”, sew a 1/4” seam all around the outside edges, then cut 2 times diagonally, you will have four half square triangles for your pinwheel.

Finally, Quilt Construction:

I love the way Jen puts the quilt together in sections. This way, you can move blocks around depending on your own color preferences.

I used color pencils to outline each section, which helped identify them as I put the blocks together on my design wall.

I have really enjoyed making Delilah with all of you. Please, post a photo of your finished quilt when you are done. We would all like to see your hard work come to fruition!

Also, be sure to sign up for Golden Days, Jen’s newest Template of the Month. We’ll have a lot of fun making it. Once again, we’ll have a blog, videos, and a facebook page. Click here to see the details.

Hello, everyone! We will now begin the blocks consisting of the second border. You can sew the center blocks, inner border and the first border with the blocks from the first three months. I like the fact that we can build the quilt as we go.

This month, we will be making (4) Jewel Box blocks found on pages 14 & 15; and (8) Checkerboard blocks found on pages 15 & 16.

Jewel Box Block: The drawing in the pattern makes this look like a square, it is not. The templates are diamonds or triangles.

Once again, I suggest you lay out the pieces, and sew each section.

Watch those sneaky T6 corner pieces…I kept sewing them the wrong way around.

Here are my Jewel Box Blocks:

Checkerboard Block: The pattern tells us to cut 42 – 1 ½” squares for each block! That’s 336 – 1 ½” squares! Not for this girly I can tell you that. I cut 1 ½” strips and sewed six of them side by side, then sub cut and sewed these together to make my blocks. I made several strip sets, so it was plenty scrappy for me.

This month we are making the rest of the 6” blocks that will be used in the two borders that surround the center medallion blocks.

Aircastle Block, pages 9 & 10: Confession time…I got really confused in reading the pattern, and trying to decide which fabrics to use and my color placement. I drew a little cheat sheet with the pieces numbered to correspond with my fabrics and the sizes to cut each. This really helped me.

I also cut each piece for each block and arranged them in the appropriate place, before I began to sew.

Here are my finished Aircastle Blocks:

The next set of blocks will be the Combination Star Blocks, pages 11 & 12. As in all the other blocks, lay out your cut pieces before you begin sewing.

This blocks has triangle points that meet in the center of the block.

If you have trouble with triangle points, I’ll show you how I keep my points “pointy”. Insert a straight pin at the point of the first triangle, and then through the point of the second triangle. Do this on each point to be joined.

Pull the pin so it is straight and the two pieces are lined up together. Put a pin on either side of the seam to hold that exact place tight. When you sew this piece, do not remove the pins, but GO SLOWLY over the pins so the seam doesn’t shift.

Finished Combination Star Blocks:

The last eight blocks we will make for this month will be Willow Block, page 13, which is a rectangle. Finished blocks size will be 7 ¼” x 6”, but again, your finished block size may vary. All of my blocks are measuring ¼” smaller. The point is they are ALL measuring ¼” smaller, so they will fit together beautifully in the finished quilt.

You will need to cut templates for this block. Sadly, none of the triangles are 60 degrees or 45 degrees. I did discover that by cutting a 3 ¾” x 4 ¾” rectangle and cutting it diagonally we can make two T8 triangles. Make another 3 ¾”x 4 ¾” rectangle and cut it diagonally the opposite way to get two T8 reversed triangles. Of course, if you want four fabrics for each corner, you’ll have to cut them one at a time.

The Willow Block has two options so I’m going to make four of each.

The first version of this block has the two diamond points meeting at the center. For this reason, I have pressed one set of seams toward the center, and the opposite set of seams toward the outside. This will allow you to “snuggle” your seams together for a perfect fit.

Use the same technique with a straight pin at the points on both diamonds. You’ll be able to feel the seams and just make sure they line up properly.

First four Willow Blocks:

Luckily the alternate version of this block is much simpler, no points to align. Yippee!

Here they are:

Thanks to all of you who are sharing your blocks on our Facebook page. Have fun and see you all next month!

This month, we are piecing twelve of the ‘Another Star Block’ found in the pattern booklet just after ‘8 Pointed Star’. The pattern has an alternate layout that I also like, so I decided to make six of each. We will also be making eight ‘Hand of Friendship’ blocks. These will become part of the first ‘border’ around the center four blocks. This way, you can build the quilt as we finish the blocks that go into each of the borders.

Another Star Block – make a total of 12. I made six of the original pattern (page 5), and six of the alternate (page 7).

This block is not difficult, but the way it is pieced can be confusing. Just take your time and make sure your pieces are where they should be before you stitch. Check twice, sew once.

In constructing the block. I pressed all my pieces away from the center. The only section that I pressed toward the center was the middle section as I finished piecing the block. I pressed toward the center so my seams would sandwich nicely when I added the two outside pieces.

Here are the first six blocks:

Another Star Block – alternate pattern

Once I started working on the alternate layout, I realized it would be a little more work as I had to line up the seam in the center piece with the point on the outside corner piece where the triangles meet. I marked the seam allowance on the back of the center piece. Then I inserted a pin at that mark from the back through the intersection of the triangles on the corner piece. Now I am certain the seams will line up perfectly.

Here are the second set of six blocks:

Hand of Friendship Star Block – make 8

Some of the blocks in Jen’s original quilt used only three fabrics, sort of refreshing for a change. I think I’ll do a few scrappier blocks because I only have small pieces of background fabric left.

Again, to avoid confusion and un-sewing, I highly suggest cutting the pieces for each block one at a time, and lay them on your work surface in the order you want them in in the final block. If you have a cell phone, you might want to take a picture of each block as you work on it. You can always delete these pictures when you no longer need them for reference.

Just a quick look at the first two blocks I’ve finished. I do like the scrappier block, so I’m going to try to use up my little pieces of background fabric.