Running a fully adjustable coilover along with just(to what i read when i first joined) Toe and Camber arm while trying to retain a 0 to ~ -2 degree rear camber adjustment on the rear does not work properly !!! invest the extra money in getting the Traction Rod along with both Toe & Camber arms.

I know many people currently run this setup but if you have an aggressive drop paired with a welded differential or some type of LSD/VLSD you will experience thumping/binding issues with your rear Toe arm tapping or bedding into the bottom hat of your coilover if you run this setup for a prolonged period of time and cause for crap snappy transitions during a manji or chokdori or even just taking aggressive turns. Eventually the OEM bushings inside your knuckle/housing and on the stock traction rod will or already are withered away and cause a fair amount of play in the rear. Picture for reference below(my car)

(uploading picture later tonight/morning)**

TL;DR - If I knew then what I know now I would have purchased the Traction rod ALONG with the TOE and CAMBER arms to run a somewhat proper cost efficient low car friendly / drift setup.

I have replaced all my arms and bushings with PBM arms/knuckles along with some SPL solid bushings/lockout kit/diffbushings at this point so I no longer have these issues besides the bedding marks on my lower coilover hat(just cosmetic at this point) and the difference is crazy. Also would like to add that daily driving a vehicle with a welded differential sucks ass, It is cost efficient way of easy drift car setup but you will constantly fight your car around corners with the retarded understeer issues or potential chance of oversteer in the rain, so just opt for a VLSD or even a proper 1.5/2-Way.