I own a Samsung TV model LE32A558 and I've been having problems with it for some months. Sometimes I get some kind of weird vertical bars/lines on the left side of the screen. Sometimes they seem to change color depending of the images being shown. I've tried to unplug the TV for a night, reset it to defaults with no success. So all indicates it's a hardware issue.Any ideas?

I will try to post some pictures later since it doesn't seem to show up often

Fortunately for me, I owned my LN 4041d for almost 4 years without any problems. Now however, I have joined the club of 'disgruntled Samsung booers'! I have just finished swapping out the 4 capacitors but my problems persist. Is there anyone on this forum that has experienced the same problems as I and, if so, can u tell me the next step. I don't mind swapping out the other 3 capacitors but they don't look bad! The clicking sound floored me when I turned my set back on after all the work I put in! Helllppppp!!

I REALLY DID IT!!!! This really works!!! I followed the steps and, sure enough, my LNS 4041d forty eight inch tele is up and working just in time for the night game!!! I cant thank CAPTAIN NED and JSMANSON enough for their patience and consideration. I wish there was something I could do for you guys! Mr. JSMANSON told me that I didn't have to solder the wires to the 5 and 6 legs of the Atmel chip. A friend of his just used a screwdriver to short the two by touching them both at the same time. That was so much easier than the alternative! Thanks again guys and I will tout this site to everyone in the diaspora!

Hi guys.Spent what seems like days reading through this thread, took the advice but have hit a dead end.

My tv is a Samsung plasma PS-42e7HDIt's been fine since purchased in 2006 (although after reading this, the occasional clicking may not have been as innocent as thought!)On Saturday night, I shut down my xbox360 via the controller and as the console went off, my TV also turned off.Power buttons and remote now unsuasble.When I remove and reinsert power, i get a click followed a second later by another click and then the LED in the front circle power button just intermittantly flashes.Following advice on here I thought "quick fix... nice!" but not so.I've removed the back and took out the power board (pspf441a01a) no sign of any damage to the capacitors.Can capacitors be bad without leaking/ballooning?Should they be changed anyway?

I've looked for the eeprom to try and follow the reset using pins 5+6 and I cannot find the chip... but in all honesty, I've not a scooby doo what i'm looking for. The posts outlinning this chip seem for LCD and not Plasma like mine.

any advice from anyone who's seen this before and can point me in the right direction would be amazing.just had a little one so the £500-800 likely spend on a new TV to replace this could really do with being saved for nappies, cots and buggys!!!

When I plug the television in the STAND BY/TEMP light is on, then when I turn the television on the LAMP light comes on (as usual) with the little noise notifying you it is on. After about 15-20 seconds there’s a click noise in the back and the STAND BY/TEMP light comes on for a second and then it switches back to the LAMP light and makes the noise again. This process is repeated 3 times total and then all 3 lights (TIMER, LAMP, STAND BY/TEMP) come on and continue to blink. I read the manual and found that when all 3 lights are blinking it means, “Lamp may be defective. Please contact a certified technician.” which I am praying will be you. Every TV repair place I have tried wants me to bring it in to them to look at. The only problem is that I do not have the resources to move such a large television. This is my only TV and I love it but don't have the money to fix it so I am hoping someone out there will be willing and able to help me. All I have done is remove the light in the back and took it down to Radio Shack to see if they had a new one I could buy, but they didn’t and they said that the lamp looks non-defective.

Latebuthere wrote:Can anyone upload a pic of the Atmel 24c256 chip? I cannot find it to save my life! Thanx!

Here it is on my LNS4051D, with wires soldered on pins 5 and 6.

In case the photo goes away one day, it is an 8-pin chip labeled IC203, slightly to the left and below the center of the Main board. An arrow (triangle) on the board points to pin #1, which is in the lower right corner of the chip. Pin #5 is in the upper left corner, with #6 right below that. (all of this while looking at the board when installed in the TV in the correct orientation.) Following the advice of another member, and (correctly!) figuring it would not work on the first try and I'd be doing it multiple times, I carefully soldered wires to each of these pins so I could do the shorting more precisely.

I believe this same board (but with different EEPROM parameters) exists on the LNS2651D, LNS2652D, LNS3251D, LNS3252D, LNS4051D, and LNS4052D. I looked at photos, and other than an extra connector for external connection, the Main board on these TVs appears to be the same as for the LNS2641D (and probably others in the ...41D series).

BUT - this did not yet work for me, so it could be wrong. When I plug in the TV with pins 5+6 shorted, it clicks only once and does not cycle. That suggests that I've found the right IC and shorted the right pins.

But pressing the buttons on the remote (Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power) that are supposed to turn it on in Service mode do nothing at all.

If anyone who has done this successfully knows what I might be doing wrong, please let me know. Otherwise I'll be ordering a new Main board soon.

UPDATE - I have the service manual for this exact TV, tried every permutation on remote-button sequence I could think of, etc. and nothing worked. I ended up replacing the main board, which successfully stopped the power cycling, but it just turned the screen white. I then replaced the T-con board as well, which has it all fixed now. I then put the original (bad) main board back in to see if it might work with the good T-con board. It did not - was the same as before. I tried shorting the EEPROM, etc. and it still did not work. From having traced the voltages through the main board, I am convinced that it is just a firmware issue and can probably be reset somehow, but I cannot do it.

Thanks.

Last edited by oldskewel on Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:17 am, edited 3 times in total.

Can anyone Tell me what this black thing is ? And should there be voltage on CNI 801 & CNI 802 when TV is on?

Can anyone HELP??

This is the inverter. Do NOT touch the HOT part of the board. This inverter itself works with up to 2000V and will fry oscilloscopes and multimeters, and will kill you, so be carefull.Don´t try to mesure the output (where the blue and white cables are connected).

The inverter input is an oscillating high voltage PWM controlled by 2 mosfets. Something between 150V and 380V.There is a very dangerous 380V line in the HOT part, so be very carefull.

The inverter is turned on by a pin on the top-left connector of your picture (right above the blown capacitors). I´m not quite sure but i think it is the leftmost pin. This connector also has a 5V pin (i think it is the rightmost). You can unplug the connector and then hot wire the 5V to the inverter pin to test if your inverter is working, the backlight should go on.

Thanks turboroe for that debugging tip. I still have a problem with my Main board, but this hot-wiring lets me know the backlights can work. Some correction and clarification in case it helps someone else...The photo shows how I hooked it up. The 5-pin connector from the upper right corner of the IP board to the upper left corner of the Main board is disconnected from the Main board. Then a jumper wire connects the black, right-most wire in that cable to a +5V source, which I found most easily on the left side of resistor DS805, as shown. This causes the backlighting to turn on (and for me, nothing else). I made all connections with the power unplugged, and then plugged it in for the test.

Hi from Australia!I have a LA46S81B and I have the power on problem. I have found and replaced 2 dead capacitors on the power board, but the problem remained. I then replaced the power board, and the problem remained. I assumed I could find the EEPROM and reset it, but the boards are not 100% consistent with the LNS4051. Can some one please help with either pointing out what I should do next, or at least which is the EEPROM I should reset. Pictures included below.

UPDATE - fixed. I replaced the Y-Main (Y-Sustain) board and the upper and lower Y-buffer (Y-drive) boards, and it is all perfectly fixed now. I'll leave the original post + photos below in case it helps anyone else. In figuring out what to do, I was told that it is common for all 3 boards to go together, and that replacing just the buffers (which obviously needed it since the ICs were visibly burned) and not the YSUS would likely cause the buffers to burn out before too long. Not confirmed, but I was told that the failed components on the YSUS are the ICs under the two big heat sinks.====================================================================I have a Samsung HP S5053 50” plasma TV that powers on but has no picture and would like to see if anyone has ideas before I start replacing parts.

Specifically, when plugged in, the power button turns blue, as it should, in standby. When turned on (power button or remote), the TV chimes, the Power-button LED flashes a few times and stays out. No continued cycling. But absolutely no picture, even when pressing “Menu” on the remote control.

I checked the fuses – all good. Before doing any electrical checks, I looked around for visual signs and found the following clues, also shown in the photos below. All photos of boards are oriented with the TV in normal position.

One of the IC’s on the upper buffer looks burned / melted. Same thing on the lower buffer. I did not touch the chips at all before the photos. These boards need to be replaced, right? Might it make sense to just replace the ICs? Do I also need to replace the Y-Main board, even though it visually looks fine, and even if it tests electrically fine (if possible)?================Burned IC on the upper buffer (y drive, y scan drive, LJ41-03882A)

Hi,I'm also from Australia and had the same issue finding the eeprom chip.I ended up giving it a try with a screwdriver on pins 5 and 6 of the only small 8 leg chip that had a clearly marked pin with an arrow on the board.

Didn't seem to make much difference, but when I tried the info-menu-mute-power sequence on the remote about the third time it powered up.Didn't get me into the service menu, but it seems to be working again. Not sure if it had anything to do with shorting the chip maybe it just needed to be turned on with the remote instead of the physical button. Happy it is working again though.

For some history, mine was slow to start, then the tuner failed, then lost audio on the av input, then hdmi input went a funny colour, then failed to turn on at all (over a couple of weeks).I replaced the 2 bulging 2200uf 10V caps, and it didn't seem to help, still responded to powering on with 5 flashes of the led then nothing, not even led or a click.

After the fiddle with the possibly eeprom chip above, it first did the same, but the clicked and the led came back on after a minute or so. I think it did that once or twice more fiddling with the remote, then came on.

I have not got the tuner back, but works with audio on av 1 now. Yet to test the hdmi.(edited because I mentioned the wrong pins first time)

Last edited by mikedufty on Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Thanks for that I'll give it a go. Got nothing to loose.It appears you are suffering the same situation, as I lost the tuner a while ago, I just ran it through a set top box I had. It appears that Samsung want us to buy a new TV on a routine basis I will never buy a Samsung again, and recommend the same to everyone I meet.

Update - I checked the HDMI and it is still dodgy, screen very bright on no input, bright off colour on standard, and completely messed up on dynamic.I'm actually not too bothered if my next TV is a samsung or not, hopefully they'v learned from this and not used dodgy capacitors in the new stuff.Mind you I notice they have changed from 3 year warranty to 1 year warranty, so maybe they haven't learned from it in the way I'd like. I think I will get something with at least 3 year warranty next time.

Got into the service menu eventually and after changing the tuner to auto and doing a reset got analogue tuning back. YayThen changed tuner back to semco and got digital tuning back too!Still the HDMI is messed up though. Very bright washed out picture, the blank screen that would normally be black is a kind of pale grey.Also hdmi black level is not accessible in the menus and locked at low. warm1 and warm2 colour settings are not accessible.Anyone got an idea what would cause this? Could it be fixed through the service menu?Also considering a firmware update, does that reset the service menu to defaults?

Hopefully last update.I seem to have resolved the HDMI issue in the service menu.In 3. White Balance, Sub Brightness was set to maximum (255). I tried adjusting this, and putting it right down to zero seems to give a decent result.Now looks like a TV picture at least, I'm not entirely sure the colour balance is right. Can probably tune that out with time either in the normal picture settings or in the servic menu. Has one of the red settings to 007 verses 208 green and 255 blue which is a bit suspicious and I think the reds are a bit purplish. Not a big enough problem to be sure if its really the tv or the sources though. Looks comparable to my computer monitor when I have them cloned.

Hello.My Samsung LE40R86BDX won't turn on with "common" clicky sound. I replaced bulgy capacitors, plus three others, but TV still won't turn on. I found [url="http://techreport.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&p=1014190#p1016796"]Turboroe's post[/url] with instuctions how to reset EEPROM. I followed instructions and now TV is running.Thanks.

When our TV would not turn on, even if plugged in just by itself, I went online.

In my search to see what was the matter, I found this Forum.

I was stunned of so many customers with the exact same problem without proper Samsung response. It was reported by many that the issue was ‘the blown Capacitors’.

I called Samsung and they read me their generic statement which basically said that the Company was not responsible and that my tv problem was attributed to the ‘normal wear and tear’. The best I was offered was a $120 repair, I would also have to pay for the one way shipment cost. I said I would consider their offer.

Before closing, I requested to leave a complaint and specifically asked if I may do so. I was reassured that I could and that my complaint would be taken down by the same person.

In the complaint I enumerated several points: I do not recall the order exactly, but in it I tried to address these specific points. I mentioned that I considered it disrespectful on the part of the company to ‘insult my intelligence’ with their broad-sweeping statement that it was not their fault, in light of so many internet complaint about the exact same ON/OFF problems with the same new tv’s. I mentioned that there were clearly many customers (I estimate in the 100’s). I mentioned that charging anything to repair this problem is unjust and irresponsible. Or, sweeping everyone with the same generic statement, in light of the fact that my 3y.o. tv just sat in the tv room and was not often watched. And that I’m displeased with the overall company performance in the field. That if they believed that these breakdowns in the relatively new tv’s were all attributed to the ‘normal wear and tear’ they must have a really low level of confidence in their product.

Afterwards, I asked if my complaint was recorded and if it will be transferred to the appropriate chain of command, and was reassured that it was in fact so. Leaving the phone, I realized that the ‘prepared’ generic ‘no-fault’ company statement, meant that Samsung was in fact keenly aware of the ON/OFF issue with their tv’s, but refused to take the responsibility for their faulty wiring.

Minutes later, I decided to call back the same customer relations number. I wanted to update the complaint letter by adding that if I did not hear of Samsung taking their responsibility within several days I would strongly consider sending a memo to the US Dep. of Consumer Affairs. Additionally, I wanted to have my former complaint read to me, to see how it sounded and to ask for an update on its status.

In response I was read something to the effect: ‘The customer refuses to pay $120’.

I asked if that was all that was noted in my complaint and was told, Yes. Upon which time I said that that was not my complaint, in response, I was ‘escalated’ to the higher authority. Upon which time I was apologized to and was able to ‘rerecord’ my complaint. I was then asked if I wished to call back to hear back my complaint, but I had no stomach to play their game any further. I asked that Samsung simply do what was responsible and either replace my TV or not charge for repairs, the only two options I would consider Just on their part. I was told that I would be reached within 24 hours.

I was reached by Samsung's Executive Customer Relations division. I was politely informed that Samsung will neither replace the tv or repair it without charge.

To date I’ve received no written apology from Samsung Corporation for lying to me in the first place.