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From Madonna to Michael Jackson, Grace Jones to Sade: Jean-Paul Gaultier feted the pop and style icons of the 1980s last month (Sept. 29) with a rebelliously joyful collection for Spring 2013.

"Just because there's an economic crisis, doesn't mean we all have to act all miserable, and show depressing clothes," the designer joked with reporters after the show, midway through Paris Fashion Week.

"Why should it all be about minimalism? There's room for joy as well."

Stiletto-heeled dancers shimmied around on a decor of scaffolding, mirrored balls hanging from the ceiling, to one 1980s hit after another, as the models stepped out -- all cast as lookalikes of one or other pop icon.

First "Grace Jones" in a tuxedo -- reworked Gaultier style as a sleeveless pantsuit.

A whole series of "Madonnas" walked out, first in a dominatrix cage-dress, then evolving towards the lingerie-inspired look of the pop diva's "Like a Virgin" era.

"Boy George" was an excuse for a series of Japanese-inspired print dresses and pants.