Description

Castle in the Sky is a two pitch route that traverses the Sex Cave headwall. The traversing nature of the route gives it a unique feel; like free climbing a beautiful via ferrata course. The route offers the classic low roof of Liposuction, delicate pocket traversing, some 3D movement entering/exiting the massive white stalactite (belay), a rewarding traverse on tufas across the wave-shaped headwall, ending with a final well-disguised crux right when you're looking for the chains. Big thanks to Matt Twyman for putting this up - now those striking tufas can be enjoyed! Go climb it.

Pitch 1: 5.11+, 11 bolts. Start on Liposuction. Put a long sling on Lipo's 4th bolt (or skip) and then traverse left across Donkey Lady's 5th and Elephant Man's 6th bolt. The first set of anchors are under the small oak tree, on the large white stalactite. Stay low after traversing over Elephant Man; it's possible to stay high on larger/dirty holds but you miss the movement! You'll know if you're too high as you'll find yourself clipping at your knees rather than at head heighth.

Pitch 2: 5.12b, 9 bolts. Continue climbing left over the lip of Sex Cave, traversing across the wave-shaped headwall, crossing over 38 Special. Keep traversing left to end at a second set of anchors near the Sex Canyon routes.