Popeye at Co. It's not just the famous no-knead pizza dough topped with a tangy-spicy blend of pecorino, Gruyre, buffalo mozzarella, black pepper and garlic that we love; it's the raw spinach heaped on top halfway through baking, left to brown and curl into a smoky crispness in a 900-degree oven. 230 Ninth Ave at 24th St (212-243-1105, co-pane.com). $17.