NYFW: JASON WU S/S 2015

When a designer’s name gets as big as Jason Wu’s has become, it is sometimes very easy to become caught up in the hype and produce clothing of very little substance. Jason Wu has been in the press quite a bit of late, and even this morning we were somewhat (okay, only a little) startled by the news that he had sold a majority stake in his eponymous label to fuel additional growth. With all the media attention, one could understand if the young man decided to take a, “Hey, look at me,” moment and present a collection that was all glitz and glamour.

Didn’t happen.

If anything, Wu’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection is his most practical yet, full of attractive suits, dresses, and ensembles that are feminine and attractive but at the same time practical and wearable. There’s just enough daring to appeal to those who can’t stand convention, but at the same time he offers plenty that could be worn by, oh, a First Lady or someone of such dignified status.

Not that the collection is ordinary. The opening print is a mottled mix of olive and white that, at first glance, almost appears to be camouflage. It isn’t, of course, but the look almost gives the opening suit a military feel. He uses a similar pattern later in blue and the camo feel is much more subdued there. When he pairs the print on a wrap skirt with a sleeveless white blouse, though, the effect is nothing short of stunning.

The collection gets a little flirty when Jason goes sheer with a few white pieces and one black number. While not nearly as provocative as some of the all-lace numbers we’ve seen elsewhere, they are just the tiniest bit daring, especially if worn among a more conservative or politically-minded audience. He doesn’t stay there long, though, and immediately follows with another set of suits and ensembles appropriate for professional wear, this time in blue.

As the collection transitions toward the evening, fabrics start to shimmer a bit, though still in an understated manner. The silhouettes are loose, fitted just enough to be feminine but not so much as to be restrictive. There are only two gowns in the collection, both have deep-plunging necklines beautifully billowing skirt that guarantee the person wearing them will not go unnoticed. Yet, even here, there are no unnecessary frills.

For someone who has so much being written and said about him at the current time, Jason Wu shows a remarkably constrained collection that is beautiful and well refined. It’s no wonder he is the favorite designer of thousand of women around the world. Who wouldn’t love this collection?