In the classic movie "This Is Spinal Tap," the lead guitarist makes a point of telling the interviewer about the amplifier that "goes to 11." I think of that every time I sip this ale from Belgian brewer Van Steenberge. (It's the same brewer that makes Piraat, which I reviewed in September.)

A Belgian dubbel is relatively strong in alcohol, malty, sweet and medium-bodied. A tripel is lighter in color, strong in alcohol. And now we have a quadruple -- big and malty and high in alcohol.

This one has a woodsy, earthy taste to it, with a hint of cider and caramel, but it's not overly sweet. The traditional heavy carbonation is there. A bit of hops graces the finish. It's orange in color and smooths out as you sip. It's definitely worth savoring and sharing. But go slow; it's 10.7 percent alcohol.

Note: After a carb-heavy meal and a Belgian ale, allow time for a nap.

Why hoist one: This beer would go well with Thanksgiving meal. An ale of this kind with heavier carbonation can cut through a rich gravy, especially if it is made with wine.

Label: A crazed-looking dragon that looks as though it has had a bit too much to drink. ("Gulden draak" means "golden dragon" in Dutch.)

What you'll pay: Comes in two sizes. It's about $11-$15 for the big one, a 25.4-ounce bottle dressed in cork and cage. It's $16-$18 for a four-pack of 11.2-ounce bottles.

Each week, Bona cracks one (or two) open and offers his comments on the brew. He posts occasional thoughts on beer via Twitter @mbona30. Check out The Plain Dealer’s beer page, facebook.com/Pdbeer

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