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W30400W Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for W30400W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

temperature probe insulation broken down so short circuit

As the probe is a plug-in item that would normally be out of the oven, there was nothing more to the repair than checking that the new probe plug fitted the socket and that it was detected by the oven. Then the old probe was consigned to the trash.

Everything checked out, and the probe was used satisfactorily within a couple of days.

Very easy to locate parts on your web site. I also ordered new burners and a new control pad for the front. I think I will get 10 more years out of this stove. It's like new. I will keep this web site in my favorites list. Thanks Moe

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

Oven light stays on when door is shut.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

Broiler would not heat

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

Piece of cake. First, turn off the power to the stove. Then, I removed four hex head screws on the bottom (above the oven door) and four phillips screws underneath the burner knobs (knobs pull right off). The entire assembly then came loose and I laid it facedown on the stove top. The clock control was easily accessible. I unplugged two electrical connections and a ribbon which "unplugs" easily by squeezing the ends and pulling up on the ends. Only two hex head screws hold the clock assembly and I removed them.

Then, it was only a matter of reversing everything I had done. The new clock light is brilliant.

The Old Hinges broke off and the door would not stay closed

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

lcould not see the lights on the clock or temperature on the control panel

The parts came with no instructions, we started to take off , the front panel , finally took off the 4 screws under the panel, then the two small ends caps on either side. the only problem we had after being carefull to study the part as we took it off , was the ribbon strip, that stayed connected to the stove. after we tried to put all back together, the exhaust fan kept coming on. There are two small holes that need to be aligned in the replacement part. also to get the strip out and back in you need to press and pull up on the small black notches on either of the strip.

Oven would not heat

At first I called a repairman. He said I needed a relay board replaced but that it was no longer being made. I found this needed relay board on PartSelect.com. Once I received this board within a few days, the repairman returned to install this for me. However, as it turned out he simply removed the old board only to put the same board back in by being careless. When the oven still wouldn't heat he said we should try another part. I said no to this. After he left I determined that the new relay board hadn't been installed but simply looking at it. I then installed this new board myself and the oven now works properly. Who needs these so called "professional repairman" who overcharge, are irresponsible and make you wait hours for their "service".

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

Broiler blement failed

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE STOVE at the breaker box!I had to pull all the burner knobs off (4ea) and remove the screw under each one. Then open the oven door and remove the screws holding a trim piece on and the hex head screws holding the "touch pad panel" on (was also held on by the screws I had already removed from behind the knobs) 1 smaller screw at each end (total of 2) under there hold the plastic trim on that needs to be moved slightly to let the panel come out. (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE) You hang the panel in the 2 slots provided and remove the old display unit. Gently unplug the 2 wire harnesses and ribbon that actually connect the touch panel to the display PC board. Look for the 2 small holes in the ribbon that will line up with the female part on the board. A piece on the board where the ribbon plugs in will slide up a little and allow you to plug the ribbon in and then push it gently back down. Finish putting it back together and turn power back on at the breaker box. Works perfectly.