Daaaark-ness! Tome II

Ok, so the other thread was getting a bit heavy on the downloads, so because I want to add a few more picture-based posts, and some scans, I thought I'd branch out (and colonise, mwahaaahahahaaa!)

You're getting my personal style favourite this time:

<p align="center"> <font size="+1">PINSTRIPE</font size>

<u>Pinstriped 'Corporate Goth'... still going strong...</u></p>

While writing this series of posts, I've been browsing around in the goth category, trying to see what non-brand stuff is still selling. As far as I can see (and fervently hope) this trend is still going strong!

I've always liked the traditional suit patterns like pinstripe & dogtooth, in slinky cuts of course... So when I found a Vollers corset (on sale!) in a subtle pinstripe, I was pretty chuffed. Now I'm sure you can find early shots of various members of the Clash or the Banshees wearing dapper pinstripe blazers customized with metal accoutrements. But in more recent times, I'm not entirely sure from what trend Lip Service picked up the Jessica-Rabbit-meets-Cagney impetus to create their first Gangsta Pranksta line in 2002:

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/rustlemeup.jpg">
</p>

Stretch fabric, snaffle adornments, slight nods to vintage outlines and a <i>very</i> figure hugging cut. During 2003, the proportion of pinstripe on offer around Camden (my main barometer, I'm afraid) zoomed up precipitately, particularly in 80s punked up styles, or menswear - especially bondage trousers (basically, straight pants or jeans with lots of D-rings, and an assortment of straps attached to the D-rings with clips, strung around or between the legs - these pants usually have apron-like 'bum-flaps' too. Personally, I don't like the 'bum-flaps'!).

<p align="center"> <img src="/goth/bondagetrousers.jpg">
(Bondage trousers from Redhaze.co.uk - more of a stripe, but both wide and narrow get grouped under 'pinstripe' in style terminology here)

</p>
Pinstripe got fully integrated into this year's retro 50s scarlet-lipsticked 'Gothabilly' trend (by the way, I doubt anyone searches under that; I think the goths search 'rockabilly' and select what they like). Now I don't have any shots of the petticoated flouncy pinstripe skirts I've seen, but my personal favourite result of this crossfertilization was this:

<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/bettiepage2.jpg">
An enterprising supplier somewhere in the world, or maybe a north London alternative ragtrader, got a whole load of basic pinstripe tops - mens, women's shirts & tanks - and cut holes in them. In the holes they put plasticised fabric inserts of pin ups - Bettie Page, mostly, but some featured one particular shot of Emma Peel in the Hellfire Club, complete with python and corset. They left the edges raw-ish. These shirts actually look pretty cool, but they have no label or manufacturer name...(wish I'd bought one - this is my BF's)

The pinstripe-retro interface colours most of its uses in goth, from Lip Service's fetish 'Lady is a Tramp' line, which came in thin and wide pinstripes, as well as polka dot:<p align="center">

<img src="/goth/ladyisatramp.jpg">
(the Betty Bacall skirt from the discontinued Lady is a Tramp line - I'm <i>still</i> looking for this in medium, ::sigh::. )
</p>

... to the '40s style' (they say) suits marketed by Dracinabox, for the Corporate Goth:

And I suppose you could say this Morbid Threads lacy cami top is a little bit 'Pin Up':<p align="center">

<img src="/goth/morbidthreadscami.jpg">

</p> But there is one firm who decided to go their own way on the pinstripe trend... Futurist fanatics Cyberdog (of whom more later) formulated their own UV-reactive, electric-circuit pinstripe, initially for use on one of their comprehensive range of T-shirt styles.

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/cyberdogpinstripe.jpg"></p>

This must have sold as well for them as the Lip Service version did, since they've now expanded the number of garments using the fabric.

Now, the application of all this to clothing re-sale - unless you're a DIY reconstructionist who can attach tutus and lace to everything - is a bit tricky. Marketing a pinstripe item as 'goth' will probably only succeed if it's particularly sharp-looking, or quite unusual in some way (usually decorative details). Those Dracinthebox suits, above, have little spiders embroidered into them (no, really!).

One successful avenue last year was the high-street rip-off trend which ploughed the same pinstripe furrow. Ironically, some of the stuff produced was almost indistinguishable from the guerilla-adapted remainders on the market stalls. I found Charlotte Russe could be particularly good at this - this pinstripe bustier had a working zip and silver cross attachment:<p align="center">

<img src="/goth/pinstripechainfront.jpg">
</p>

A particular style that became really popular last year (mostly supplied by amateur DIY-ers) and is still going great guns this year (going into wider production I think) is the faux-corset latticed ribbon jacket. Here shown in a pinstripe jacket sold for a decent sum by UK goth seller Biomech-K:
<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/biomechkjacket.jpg"></P>

Now, you're not necessarily going to find these down the thrift... but you get the idea that unusual, glittery, metallic, lace or ribbon features can put a pinstripe item in the Gangsta goth ballpark. I wore a relatively normal grey pinstripe Morgan de Toi skirt, with a black lace trip, to a club last year and was surprised at how many compliments I got about it. Create the context, and something might just work...

Lin,
<p>WOW!! I am more than impressed!!
Your style of writing just makes me want to read more...YOU have a GIFT!!
<p>This style of clothing has always been a source of major interest and has great appeal for me. Since my humble beginnings at 9 with the Dark Shadows series. Just really dated myself!! Have always loved wearing black. Lush fabrics and lace and corsets, to me they have a romance and mystique that surrounds them.
<p>I think this search for unique clothing has lead many of us to vintage!! We can be anything we want to be on any given day...our unique self expressed in the clothing that we wear!!
<p>Thank-you for sharing your wealth knowledge on this subject with us!! Eagerly looking forward to your next posting.
Dianna Beardnlady

<i>I think this search for unique clothing has lead many of us to vintage</i>

You have a point there - and to turn it the other way around, I think goth discovery of one's auctions can lead to an interesting new customer for 'general' vintage, rather than requiring precise goth definitions of our stock. But back to the <b>ins-truction</b>.

Now this is definitely not my strong point. I can tell you that William Gibson popularised the term Cyberpunk, and that first time around, I was dimly aware of the genesis of a style among the less Metal Nine Inch Nails fans... and that they probably had Gary Numan somewhere in their genetic make up. There is Cyber (which doesn't want to touch Goth with a barge-pole) and there is Cybergoth. It's entirely likely that both can be found in the same club... if on separate floors...

</P> The hair, the goggles, and the occasional 'wired up' Borg accessory are fairly standard - it's the concentrated use of them here that's fairly striking! (That and the cobweb top - Trad Goth in Borg Assimilation Shock!)

Here, in a DIY top by the US seamstress behind 'Anti-Label' (on sale now from sgrcane77, who's a great source for unusual items and rare Lip Service stuff) you can see some of the features of the cyber genre: canvas straps, clips & buckles, stretchy mesh and metallic and luminous shades:

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/antipunkcybertop.jpg">
</p>
But, instead of rhapsodizing about the virtues of painting egg-cups silver and creating a fabulous avant garde cyber outfit, I'm going to be boring and talk about a couple of labels instead. Rest easy with the thought that 70% of the market are going to navigate that way (at least for part of their wardrobe) as well.<p align="center">

<u><B>
Cyberdog</u></B>

<img src="/goth/cyberdog.jpg">

The dark, bass-thumped and wierdly futuristic Victorian arches of the Cyberdog shop in Camden Market are actually a tourist destination. They've had to forbid cameras and photos inside to prevent people taking photos of the assistants.

<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/cyberdogshopview.jpg">

<br>This is a shot of a shop on the continent, but you get the idea...</p>

Up and running since the late 90s ('96-7 or so), they're big on spandex, fleece, stretch jersey and metallic weaves. They do a range of slightly Babylon-5-ish tops and trousers where the necks and hems are stiffened and flared out with sculpted wire. They do a great range of T-shirt designs inspired by Manga images, the design of the Matrix, Star Trek etc. Especially neato are their range of LED display T-shirts - washable, with removable battery pack and wiring.

</p> These flash away in a dark corner of the store, and designs include that green Matrix digit/symbol stream, pacman and programmable 'message' screens (that's the one, above).

Unfortunately, the Cyberdog site is a bit technologically advanced for me, and I can't give you any screen captures of the clothes. But I can guarantee if you go to the website, you're in for a beep-tastic time.
<p align="center">
Here's a fashion show shot, and, um, an excerpt from the Cyberdog philosophy:
<img src="/goth/cyberdogDavidBetteridg.jpg"><br>(hmm, I forgot about the Glam Rock Spiders from Mars angle...)<br>

"<i>Cyberdog was once an ordinary chihauhua on earth. He was chosen to lead the mission to bring forth progression in clothing unlike any seen before on earth.

The Coolest Alternative Fashion Label in the Galaxy. The Future is Here Now - Enjoy!"
</i>
-----------</p>
I'll just give you the briefest run down of the labels, since a Cyberdog separate in good condition is likely to be a good find. However, clubbing being what it is, I usually find rather over-worn-and-washed T-shirts that I prefer to leave where they are...
<p align="center">
Old label c.late 90s or 2000:

(Back in a few hours after battery regeneration, to give you another label/brand...)
<p align="center">------------------
Ok... second label:
<b>DANE</b>

<img src="/goth/daneback.jpg" height=350>
</p>
Here you see the characteristic jungle-alien-camouflage-as-designed-by-Giger print to be found on Dane clothing. Dane is a British based label sustained (I think) by a single designer. It got into gear a little later than Cyberdog; perhaps around '98-99. Whitby Goth weekend photos show people wearing a lot of Dane's stretch spandex outfits from c.2000 onwards. I believe there used to be an outlet in Camden, but now Dane appears to be only available through other retailers, possibly exclusively online.

Dane is sparser on the ground than either Lip Service or Cyberdog items, they were expensive originally and I think a striking item can go for a lot.

Here's the most typical top worn by a gent (the picture above is the back of one of these in purple):

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/danetopworn.jpg">
</p>
Most of Dane clothing is theoretically unisex (in the sense that cross-dressing is fairly standard in this scene), but I think the intention of the cutaway top might have originally been do adorn the female form:

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/danetops2.jpg">

This same design comes on full-length tight dresses and corsets too:

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/danecorset.jpg">

</p>Now, I may be wrong here, but it's my impression that the Dane/Cyberdog axis of stretch, futuristic, graphic-influenced club designs is one of the few genres that Lip Service haven't whole-heartedly embraced lately.

However, over the other side of the Atlantic, I <i>am</i> aware of a few models by exclusive fetish designer Catherine Coatney which reflect the same trend. I don't have any of her clothes, so no label I'm afraid, but her garments are sought after and should always do well (especially the more 'fetish' models, of which more later). Here are a selection:

<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/cathcoatneycyberdot.jpg"><br>This top is really rather similar to the kind of thing I'd expect to see in Cyberdog

<img src="/goth/catherinecoatneyrevere.jpg"><br>whereas something about this one almost seems retro to me (perhaps 70s) <br>Both of these shots are from Incubus.com, who carry a variety of Coatney & Lip Service clothes.

</p> While you find cyber at the fetish end of the market, it's equally true that cyber clothes have infiltrated the popularized and diluted youthwear in the same way that Inde-Eco-Warrior-wear and Skater stuff did in the 90s.
Some <i>youths</i>: (I'm taking the liberty of posting this, 'cos I know one of them):

<p align="center"><img src="/goth/wgw20011.jpg">
<br>That's an old Japanese Cyberdog shirt, second from right, and a custom 'Eraserhead' pvc outfit on the far left (ok, not so indie-kid, but you get the idea...)
Moving onto fetish soon...

I'm SO glad you're extending your info. and that you're addressing "cyber" stuff. I fell in love with the clothing from Plastik Wrap, after viewing some of their auctions on eBay. On their site, they refer to their clothing as "Cyber Tek." Would you consider this a different genre from Cyberpunk (e.g., more "pop" than "punk")?

Ooh Steph, I had no idea about them! I've just taken a look, and it's *VERY* Cyberdog-ish, and great!, except somehow more delicate. I don't know how to express that difference actually - perhaps 'pop' as you say, or maybe just an unusual injection of elegance and more retro. Post pics of you favourite pieces if you can find them, I want to know more!
L

You're right. They do look more retro. I hope they don't mind (It is free advertising.)...

<img src="/goth/plasti1.jpg"><br><br><img src="/goth/plasti2.jpg"><br><br><img src="/goth/plasti4.jpg"><br><br><img src="/goth/plasti6.jpg"><br><br>I'd like this one without the bottom claw, but otherwise love it...<img src="/goth/plasti7.jpg"><br><br>

Yeah, that thought was nibbling at my brain too, Deb. Mod-Cyber interface! A bit more open to wear by the general indie crowd too, I think. I love that last dress! (even the assymetrical bit, actually).
Couple more posts to come, but I'm sleep-deprived at the mo, so it'll take a bit longer!

that thought occurred to me too. maybe it is why that some people market some 80s, etc stuff as "mod". some out of miseducation...really thinking its 60s mod...and some that do know that its 80s, but sortof overlapping the earlier parts of new wave with Mod....think simple zippered (sometimes assmetrically zipped) dresses with space age looks vs the huge shoulder pad looks...

I realize that this is a bit off the main "Darkness" track... but here's an aside about the 80's/Mod image...

in the 80's I knew a lot of people in the Ska scene. Rude Boys & Girls. At that point in time, there was a definate punk influence in the scene. The guys generally wore things like single breasted, thin lapeled suits.. & the girl's attire did have a distinctly MOD feel to it. Think Quadrophenia & many-mirrored Vespa scooters. So.. I guess what I'm saying is that there is some basis for an overlap on these styles and influences
Music included things like The Specials, Modern English, Madness, Selector, English Beat (and more recently) Mighty Mighty Bosstones, & early No Doubt.

Here's a great synopsis of the Ska movement:
<i>
Ska evolved in the early '60s, when Jamaicans tried to replicate the sound of the New Orleans R&B they heard over their radios. Instead of mimicking the sound of the R&B, the first ska artists developed a distinctive rhythmic and melodic sensibility, which eventually turned into reggae music. In the late '70s, a number of young British bands began reviving the sound of original ska, adding a nervous punk edge to the skittish rhythms. Furthermore, the ska revivalists were among the only bands of the era to feature racially integrated lineups, which was a bold political statement for the time. Indeed, ska revival was more implicitly political than any of their British punk and new wave contemporaries
<p>Although the ska revival bands never became stars outside of the U.K., they did become major cult figures in the U.S. and inspired several generations of musicians to form similar bands. This wave of ska revivalists was equally inspired by hardcore punk and heavy metal, thereby stripping out much of the R&B groove that informed the original ska and 2-Tone artists. Nevertheless, these bands -- including Rancid, Mighty Mighty Bosstones, and No Doubt -- became quite popular in America during the mid-'90s. In the U.K., ska revivalists influenced both Britpop bands like Blur and trip-hop artists like Tricky.
</i>

I realize that this is a bit off the main "Darkness" track... but here's an aside about the 80's/Mod image...

Not really, because it fits in with alternative fashion...

But here we are again at culture/music = spawns or supports fashion....and then the fashion becomes something on its own, detaches from the orignal movement ...and somehow gets adapted into another....or is a springboard for it...

Thanks for all the Ska info, Kristine - thinking about it, although it was a different-but-related scene at the time, I think it's been hugely influential, not just in the kind of styles shown above, but also the late teens' version of goth that's heavily influenced by the mainstream 80s revival.

In fact, what you're saying there about merging influences is not only relevant to everything we've talked about, but <i>particularly</i> to the topic I'm going to attempt to tackle next (and I've left it 'til last, 'cos it's the most difficult). (I also may have to do this in two chunks, 'cos sleep will intervene! And I will post my outfit at the bottom)

<img src="/goth/peacock.jpg">
<br><i>Peacock, from a recent London fetish club night</i></p>

So... for the purposes of your precise definition, fetishwear can include (for a start) <b>all of the above</b> (ie. the rest of these two threads) <i>plus</i> pretty much anything else glam, gender-bending, archaic, sexy, play-acting or just down-right peculiar enough to float your particular boat.

Essentially, this is <i>much bigger than goth</i> and indeed, although there is a cross-over market for both kinds of clubs, they are still, by and large, <i>different</i> markets.

Nevertheless, in clothing styles, they influence each other intensely.

Browsing a club flyer from the summer I see:<p align="center">
<b>Enforced Dresscode</b>

Now, I can give visual summaries for some of these, but I'm still a bit baffled by others (I've got an idea what Porno punk is, but it's a bit scarily unaesthetic, so I'll let you discover it for yourself).

Medical and uniform are pretty self-explanatory, and anyone who's experienced a bidding flurry over a NOS nurse's outfit (xsmall or xlarge) will have some idea of the fetish market. Oriental, I guess I've hinted at with the 'Hollywood Geisha' pic, but extends to full-blown painted geisha-hood in the fetish world.

Cyber you know... lounge lizard pretty covers everything slick and sharp from exaggerated 40s (like the Lady is a Tramp & Gangsta) to Viva Las Vegas be-suited snappiness, all the way to early 70s pimp-ery.
Drag can go from the fullest glam type to (actually proportionally dominant) subtler forms of cross-dressing (and on some people, you can't tell if it's drag. In fact, on some people, it's probably difficult to come to a definitive conclusion re: drag or non-drag)

I realise I've neglected the burlesque side of things in the threads, so I'll make an inadequate attempt to right it by exhibiting, a) Lip Service's latest take on fetish burlesque, the Bound and Gagged group:<p align="center">

And the late-80s glam-goth-fetish diva dress by Sarah Whitworth (still steeling myself to part with this)<br>
<img src="/goth/whitworthbelow.jpg" height=450>

</p>
But one of the central themes that's always useful to remember about fetish (and one of it's big themes to be shared with gothic) is that <i><font size="+1">everything can always be done in latex rubber</i></font size>!<p align="center">(<font size="-1">the following by Torture Garden & House of Harlot</font size>)

50s Burlesque/Vintage:
<img src="/goth/latex50s.jpg">

40s(ish) 'Paris Couture'
<img src="/goth/pariscouture.jpg">
<br>

School uniform:
<img src="/goth/torturegarden.jpg"><br>(that motif on the armband is the 'Torture Garden' logo)

Oh, and that's without forgetting yer standard catsuits, masks and dominatrix outfits:
<img src="/goth/dominatrix.jpg">
</p>
Now, I've never gone very near any of these, on the grounds that I'll always feel too-hot-too-cold-too-fat to even consider trying them on. But believe me, if you're stuck for something to wear at a fetish club, rubber is the good ol' standby, for men and women.

I'm breaking for the intermission here, but I'll come back with some 'designers-use-rubber' shots and further club variations. If anyone has a) further slightly dark burlesque garment examples or b) other designers-go-fetish pics, do post them!

Ooh, nice Coatney corset! I've yet to get my mits on one of her pieces, alas. I've seen frenzied bidding wars on Ebay over her PVC/vinyl items especially.

Mind, the garment I really fancy is playing off another trend. I'm still hesitating over buying it from incubus.com, even though it's been reduced:
<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/cc_venitian_highneck.jpg" alt="coatney high neck lace top"></p>

A Venetian lace-adorned high neck top - I like the long trumpet skirt that goes with this too. Do you have any info about her as a designer, because I have <i>nothing</i> here, I'm afraid!

Anyway, I'm going to revise the <b>fetish</b> post to add some more pictures - and if anyone has a particular interest in one of the fetish genres being explained further, just ask, and I'll do my best. I may add another post tomorrow with some survey pics of brands I forgot to cover above...

But you wanted to see an outfit? Alas, it looks particularly unspectacular compared to everything that's been on show, above.

</p>and the Vollers corset, in <b><i>pinstripe</i></b>
<p align="center">
<img src="/goth/v1844u.jpg"><br>(I really want it in this brocade too, but it's going to be a little pricey...)

</p>Add two petticoats - one a 50s black satin tiered half slip courtesy of jumblelaya, the second (underneath) a layered white lacy number of uncertain vintage, purchased from Oxfam two days previously...

Oh, and plus a pair of coordinating leather-lined pinstripe cuffs that I got second-hand, but were originally made by fetish corset designer, Velda Lauder (although, to be honest, I've not heard flattering things about the fit of her corsets).

Now, I felt a bit of a prat posing in the kitchen (serious lack of light elsewhere), so there's a certain lack of atmosphere here!

<p align="center">
<TABLE BACKGROUND="http://users.ox.ac.uk/~wolf1360/auction/clothes/logo/goth/slimelight2.jpg" BORDER="0" CELLSPACING="0" CELLPADDING="0">
<TR><TD><IMG SRC="/goth/image1.gif" HEIGHT="420" WIDTH="125"></TD></TR>
</TABLE>
</P>
In the first shot I grinned like a loon at the camera and The Photographer (BF) suggested that it was more in keeping to affect '<i>melancholia</i>', so that's why I'm looking like I just got told off by a schoolteacher.

No particular 'look' gone for here. Just, I love the corset, so I usually wear it; also, those are pretty much my most gothic shoes (I'm a bit of a lightweight in the shoe dept.) and since I'd just found a second petticoat, I was in a bit of a flouncy mood.

If I'd worn some kind of white & black lacey top, with an underbust cinching corset, instead of the long pinstripe one, the effect might have been a little EGL. As it was, a friend commented that it was a mite 50s (very 'ish', I think).

Oh, and the white petticoat doesn't show up well here, but it flashes out a great deal when subjected to the club's UV light!