When I began cooking professionally in the early 1990s, no one talked about sustainable fishing. We were serving up swordfish like crazy, which is considered crazy today.

It was insanely popular at the time and a regular on menus all over town. In those days, the big deal was convincing our clientele to eat the fish medium-rare or, better still, rare, because it took so little to overcook and dry out the fish, and once that happened, no one was happy. Looking back, it’s staggering to see how far we’ve come when it comes to eating raw fish. … Read more…

Since early April, when the Wall Street Journal published this photo, I kept it in my sights to make sure I wrote about this woman and her beautifully sorted fish. Now that she’s in my queue to write about, I decided to get some context about her life and learned some bad news…. Read more…