So...I recently optioned my old friend #PeterMaguires book, 'ThaiStick' for film and tv rights. We have begun work on a documentary film and several parties are interested in making an episodic tv series about it. This is a history they certainly don't teach you in school but an important and significant cultural phenomenon that occurred mostly undocumented. It took the professional historian and former smuggler 15 years to complete and it is based on thousands of hours of interviews. They document everything you didn't know about pot smuggling from the late 60's thru early 80's, diving into every aspect of the game from personal to political. Even #TimothyLeary and #RichardNixon make cameos. As an innocent kid growing up in Florida, I knew nothing about this stuff but heard lots of stories about the surfing/smuggling connections related to people I knew. I was always intrigued hearing about the guys I considered to be #RealLifePirates. A lot of what I know now

It will never not be strange to see my mug on the side of a car but if it plants a (chia) seed in a few kids minds to take better care of their health because they connect with what I do, the rewards far outweigh any shyness I'm worried about dealing with. I'll just say I'm blown away by how many people bring up mention of the health topics I post. It's gratifying that social media allows a platform to thank and acknowledge people publicly. I'm no doctor but I'm a health geek and we all have the opportunity however big or small to use these mediums for sharing ideas and info to improve each other's lives. So this is a post to thank @thechiaco for choosing me to work with a couple years ago and for supplying a product I know is beneficial to everyone's health that uses it. Google recipes for yourself and keep a nice supply prepared in the fridge. It's one of the easiest things you can do to have healthy meals ready in a rush for you or your family. #H

Did you know...yesterday, March 20th, 2015, was the #Equinox, a #NewMoon and #SuperMoon, a total #SolarEclipse, the first day or Spring in the States, the #PersianNewYear, #InternationalHappinessDay and #NationalRavioliDay all on the same day? And some places, such as the Faroe Islands, experienced their biggest tides of the century! That has nothing to do with this photo but it's interesting when things align like that. Check the texture on the wall from the spit settling. @gopro @cisurfboards @toddglaser

Thanks to @darrenaustralia for the wall hanger of my friend, Russell, and I at #SnapperRocks. Russ has been the single-most dedicated fan at the #QuikProGoldCoast, unrelentingly hailing the surf gods for waves with his #Didgeridoo at the jump off in support of all the surfers. He's been an integral part of the event for as long as anyone can remember and played onstage at the awards ceremony for @joelparko and I the last time I made the finals here. Have you met him there? Got a story about him?

A couple years ago in an #AfternoonDelight at a somehow uncrowded Kirra. Aaaaahhh...#TheGoodOldDays. Actually, this is the same session I was lucky enough to score the cover of the new @gopro photography book from. And the next day Burleigh was mental...but crazy crowded.

Congratulations to @makuarothman for winning the inaugural #BWWT and becoming our first big wave #WorldChampion on the @wsl! Pretty rad considering he wasn't actually on the invite list and instead got wild cards into both the events that ran, winning one (in Peru a couple days after his baby was born) and getting a close second in the other one in Spain. Safe to say he'll have a spot secured next year and be #TheGuyToBeat! How's this @zaknoyle shot from a monster at #Jaws a year and a half ago?! Makua also had the biggest wave of the year from a Jaws tow day back in 2002 when he was only 18 years old. #DudeCharges. Nice one. Stoked for you!

CrowdSelfie on the 18th hole of the #PebbleBeachProAm today. Thanks to the tournament for having me back again and to everyone who came out to enjoy it. Also good job to my pro playing partner, #MarcelSiem, who shot a 63 at Pebble Beach yesterday, one shot shy of the course record. I would've tagged everyone in this photo but I didn't want to miss any of you so I hope you find your heads in the crowd.

Thanks to all my family and friends around this planet for the Birthday wishes. I had a wonderful day. Emojis for all the things I ate and drank and saw and did today. #HappyToBeBreathingStill #MakeYourBedEveryDayNoMatterWhat #ThanksForHavingMeMom

Painting by #EddieVedder for my birthday or Christmas a few years ago...his version of an #EddieWouldGo poster, I believe. Eddie's love of surf culture and lifestyle is infectious and inspiring...and his painting skills ain't too bad either.

Fun few days at Pipe with only a couple friends in the lineup (during heats, that is). Congrats to this guy @john_john_florence for winning his 4th #VolcomPipePro win. Glad I could break his streak for a minute last year but maybe it's the start of a new one? We'll find out in 12 months. I'm sure @whoisjob ain't happy about it! And good job to so many guys this week. @cocom4debarrelkilla nice one. @seabassz...nice battle we had going for 3rd place, eh?! #FloridaBoys. Haha. Thank you to @jeanniechesser for honoring me with the #ToddChesser award today. I'm so grateful. And thank you to @electric_california for $1000 for that good wave in my quarter final this morning. #DoubleShakas #NorthShoreDiary #GladIWasARegularFooterToday

For the past year, I've been working with @PBTeen on a line of eco-friendly furniture and bedroom basics for kids (and adults!?). The line is crafted from sustainable materials, recycled fabrics and 100 percent organic cotton. I'm actually blown away at the depth of work that went into this project by #PBTeen. Their level of commitment to creating products the right way has been nothing short of amazing. I know people these days like to be skeptical of large brands and poke holes in their processes but these guys have done such an incredible job. It's good to be proud of what you do and awesome to be able to trust those you work with to make great decisions and products. Thank you to #PBTeen for choosing me to collaborate with. I'm extremely happy with the end result and honored to be part of the family. We recently shot an ad campaign at my place in Hawaii with a few of my friend's and neighbor's kids which will be released in the coming weeks and months. The l

Beautiful morning but I was horrified to realize everyone was paddling out to Pipe to form a circle in remembrance of my friend, #RicardoDosSantos, who passed away in hospital after being shot three times yesterday in #Brasil. @ricardosantos90 was truly one of the great barrel riders of his short time (myself and a few others learned that the hard way against him at Teahupo'o a couple years back when he won the #AndyIronsAward in the event). He also won the #WaveOfTheWinter in 2012-2013 for a crazy barrel at #Pipeline and was a regular standout in any barreling or heavy conditions around the world. This was truly a senseless loss of life. It unfortunately brings to light the number of murders yearly in Brasil, officially documented at over 50,000 with many thousands more going unreported. Lack of education, poverty, and drugs don't make for a good mix and make life challenging in this country, one of the most beautiful and scariest places I've been. Condolences to Ricardo&#

Just ran into our @purps truck in Haleiwa for a few coldies. I helped formulate and launch this brand with @drpurps and @pmtenore to combat the influx of overly sugared and highly caffeinated drinks in the market. #Purps is formulated from water, coconut water and our organic #PurpleLifeFormula (Mangosteen, Maqui Berry, Aai, Blueberry, Grape, and Blackberry) and sweetened with organic evaporated cane sugar. It comes in 3 formulas, #Hydro and #Fuel and #Vita. The Hydro has only 2g of sugar whereas comparable drinks generally have somewhere between 28-32g of sugar. Ask for it at your local organic shop or favorite spot to eat. #PurpsLife #Organic #NonGMO

@dusty_payne just posted his angle of this photo so here's mine. This guy put on the #PerformanceOfTheYear to come from something like 89th or 96th on the QS rankings with 2 remaining events in the year to winning Haleiwa and backing it up with a near miss and 2nd place at Sunset to re-qualify for another year on the CT. And he's finally injury free! Can't wait to see you match your potential in the coming year and quit fooling around! #OnMyFantasySurferTeam #BigCarvesAndHugeAirs @volcom #TeamLogieHat

Great to run into, surf, and talk board design with #KeoneDowning yesterday. Most people think of him as a big wave guy but he's every bit as passionate about designing equipment for small waves and still pushing his own levels. Keoni won the #EddieAikau event in 1990 in what everyone considers the best #Waimea conditions of all time. Most people probably remember #BrockLittle putting on the performance of a lifetime that day...pushing big wave levels (with @tonymoniz), pulling into a huge barrel and falling out the end and then eating it on one of the biggest waves ever caught at the bay...but it was Keoni who owned the day and made every wave he caught. His father, #GeorgeDowning, has been the event's director since inception and the buck stops with him and his direct relationship with the offshore buoys that forecast the swell for the Hawaiian Islands. Needless to say, Keoni has #SaltwaterInHisVeins. He also sent me to a #WitchDoctor once when I was injured but that's fo

Visited #GQ offices in the new WTC Tower yesterday. Amazing to marvel at this $3.9B architectural wonder piercing the sky #1776 feet above sea level (with foundations driven over 100 feet below the #HudsonRiver) and bizarre and haunting to look down and see the footings of the former North and South Towers from above. It's hard to believe it's been over 13 years since the attacks of 9/11. Where were you at that very moment? I was living in LA and woke up to a voice mail from my brother saying a plane had struck the first building. I stayed glued to the TV for a few hours then went to a @surfershealing event at Topanga where we all stood around in shock and horror. There will be few days during anyone's lifetime that will change the course of history for all of mankind and polarize so many people. #Remembering911 #FreedomFries #WTC7

Didn't quite score the conditions we were looking for but did get a nice wave or two the last day to finish our trip to #BocasDelToro. I've already been to California and New York and back in the past two days! Special thanks to Scott and crew at @redfrogbungalows for taking care of @sunnygarcia, @gerglong, @alejandro_berger and I down there. And that #Silverbacks is a freaking tricky beast of a slab. I'll have to get back down there and figure that thing out. #NeedAJetskiOrBiggerCojones #CaribbeanSeaSlabs : #ScottBalogh

Let me try that again. I think this one is better. Happy Birthday to my brother, @sslatersurftackle and Happy New Year to everyone else! #NothingToSeeHere. #YouWontGo. #ShitsCray @toddglaser #LieUpShots

An oldie but a goodie...with #SteveIrwin's #Tortoise, Harriet, a few months before she, and then Steve, passed away. Steve said Harriet was his most favorite creature he ever knew and he was more heartbroken than he'd ever been when she died as the #OldestKnownLivingCreature, around 176 years old, in 2006! Harriet was one of three tortoises taken from the #GalapagosIslands by #CharlesDarwin in 1835 and ultimately ended up at the @australiazoo after being shuffled around the world. Steve told me this was the last time he saw her interacting with people as she crawled out of her puddle to grab a few hibiscus flowers from our hands. The photo was taken in March and she passed away in June. How cool to have met her.

With Alfred #RabbitKekai yesterday at Leahi Hospital near Diamond Head. He's been the #BeachMarshall handing out our jerseys at the #VansTripleCrownOfSurfing for as long as I can remember and is a permanent fixture in Hawaiian surf culture. Rabbit was born in 1920 and started surfing at the age of 3, eventually under the tutelage of #DukeKahanamoku. He was one of the early #BeachBoys in #Waikiki and helped establish the #WaikikiSurfClub. For some reason he kept asking us questions in Japanese which he said he became fluent in to talk to the Japanese girls he taught to surf at Queens. Any of his long-time friends should drop in and see him for a laugh as he sure hasn't lost his sense of humor. He hasn't had too many familiar faces around and I'm sure he'd be glad to see a few more. It's been an honor and a pleasure to be friends with Rabbit for 25+ years. #Akamai #KamaAina #Kokua

GoldenHour at #TheBanzai. @jeanniechesser

Please spread the word and pass on any info you may have about #KelaniJadeEale. I don't know this young girl but I can't imagine how it would be to have a missing child. Her father, @hawaii5joe66, sent me this message. This is a small community and island and it's bizarre to think that nobody knows anything about her disappearance. Please help and share.

There's no denying it...this guy lit it up all year. A very deserving #WorldChampion in @gabrielmedina. Congratulations. He #SetTheStandard of straight up shredding and competitive savvy and in doing so switched his position from challenger to leader. With the weight of a country on his shoulders, he made all the right choices to keep his head on straight and achieve his dream. I think it's awesome how he has matched every challenge thrown at him both personally and professionally. If I was honest, I was pulling for @mfanno today to pull a magic trick but I'm very happy the win went to Gabriel in the end. To see the atmosphere around him is to see a rare situation playing out in sports and however intimidating it can be for his competitors, it's great for the sport and a big challenge for everyone he comes up against. He's definitely a more than worthy champion. Great job today also to #AlejoMuniz for a great event and good luck to the remaining competitors at the #

Thanks #CarveMagazine @carvemag for the cover and @gotfilm for making the swim out to #Cave that day. As long as you didn't fall this wave was super fun but check where the lip's landing... #SmallKineRocks sticking up. @tiagosacapires knows. This one actually clamped me on the end in the channel. #LowTideOnly #SuperSafeWave @cisurfboards

@themichellewie dropped by yesterday to chip a few balls at the fake chicken in my yard, steal a few @mikoh bikinis and make me throw a #MiniShaka for the @iration boys! #PipeMasters #GangSigns @patchy_o @peterkinglajolla @bhurley99

@travislogie is surfing in the last event and potentially the last heat of his pro surfing career right now at the #PipeMasters (tune in at aspworldtour.com). Travis is one of the funniest, coolest guys I've ever traveled with. It's been an absolute honor and privilege to hang and surf around the world with this guy. Now on to the serious stuff...wish him well in his future endeavors living in #WestHollywood and playing #WorldOfWarcraft online all night and sending his friends weird direct messages on @instagram. You can follow his golf endeavors on @golfgeek with the rest of us golf dorks. #WouldYouLookAtThat!!! #PoachingLefts #CandyCrush

Throwing you a #GnarlyShaka from the desk at the #PipeMasters with @mfanno and @gabrielmedina. Quick interview on aspworldtour.com coming up in 2mins then we go to work as early as tomorrow. #GoodLuck to my competitors and hope everyone can tune in.

I took a chopper ride yesterday for a @gopro break breakdown of the wave and reef at #Pipeline with #GerryLopez. What a pleasure to #TalkStory and see a different side of #Oahu. Look for the edit on aspworldtour.com during the event over the next few days. New swell in the water tonight. Should be an interesting week! Oh, and thanks to our pilot, Josh, for getting Gerry and I inverted over some insane peaks in the mountain ridges on the east side. #Sketchy

My brother @sslatersurftackle with three SUPs he made as a present for @vitorbelfort and family prior to Vitor's February @ufc title fight against #ChrisWeidman. A little cross-training might be fun. We should've added some extra weight though cause these things are super light for their sizes. Styrofoam epoxies. If you're in #CocoaBeach go check out my brother's shop and have him make you a board or rig some fishing gear for you! #WhenItsFlatWeFish #ItsAlwaysFlat

Months ago I posted about the rampant ivory poaching in Africa that @mrpottz, @jordysmith88 and I witnessed firsthand. Here's one easy option where we can all easily get involved and help out...Please support this grassroots, anti-poaching documentary on #Kickstarter. Link in my bio... #TROPHYGAMES: A Documentary About Wildlife Conservationby Knapsack Films.Wildlife game are going extinct at an alarming rate all throughout Africa. At our current rate, wild #Lions will be extinct within 15 years, #Elephants will be gone by 2025, and Rhinos will be gone by 2020. "Trophy Games" will follow the wildlife rangers that protect the last three wild Northern White Rhinos.An up-close, feature documentary about a wildlife ranger unit fighting on the frontlines of Kenya's poaching crisis.Funds for this film will provide free screenings of the film in rural Kenyan communities to raise social awareness and community advocacy and will also be used to fund partnering organizations that

Issue XII #FlowMagazine 2003. #AI and myself in a 007 themed #BattleRoyale going into Pipe. Andy made it very clear that he hated my white wetsuits at the time, thus the B&W suits In the illustration. He won the #PipeMasters and also the #WorldTitle over me by a single heat. So close yet so far. #Winning contests reaffirms the work you put in but #Losing teaches you more about yourself and your life than winning ever could. That was a tough one for me personally and professionally but looking back I'd have it no other way. Andy went on to win his third world title the following year before I could narrowly catch him in 2005, also by a single heat win on my side. #ThoseWereTheDays #BlackAndWhite

Starting shortly...I know the #NorthShore is raining so girls like to shop. Details below... #MIKOHXOAHU TRUNK SHOW SALETODAYNORTH SHORE, OAHU9AM-12NOON 59-005 Hoalua StreetHaleiwa, HI 96712SHOP ALL YOUR FAVORITE PAST AND PRESENT MIKOH COLLECTIONS UP TO 60% OFFCASH AND CREDIT ACCEPTEDAll sales final | No returnsSEE YOU THERE AND ALOHAX#MIKOH@oleemamiller @kalanimiller

FamilyPortrait from #OlanMills. I'm guessing this is about 84-85. Me, @sslatersurftackle and @skippyslater from L-R. Back when Stephen used to dress like #OrvilleRedenbacher for Halloween and before Sean rocked a #Mullet for a few years, #CenterPartsRuled! And we had the #SickestShirts.

Let me try this again. Huge congratulations to @stephaniegilmore for winning her 6th #WorldTitle and also to @rissmoore10 for smashing it at the #TargetMauiPro and narrowly taking out @tylerwright in the final to hand the World Title to Stephanie. Great finish, girls. #TheseGirlsShred @asp #ItsOn

Home

MyHappyPlace

MorningSelection at my house. @thechiaco, #Shilajit, #Kelp, #Ginseng, #Ashwaganda and the rest. I spend most of my days planning what I'm on a eat and where I'm gonna surf. @patchy_o calls me #SnackBoy cause I always have a bag of food with me at all times. I'm a good person to sit next to on a plane if you're hungry.

NameThesePeople. Good luck.

Have you seen the film #Blackfish yet? I assumed a lot about #Orcas' intelligence but had no real knowledge on the subject. Adults spend their entire lives in pods alongside their parents and swim up to 100 miles/day. They're one of the most intelligent and self-aware species in the world (making them highly inquisitive and unsuited for captivity). Although it's not totally understood at this time, most adult males and some females in captivity encounter dorsal fin collapse which is rather rare in the wild unless the whale is sick or injured. Captive whales have cute #Chinook names like #Tilikum, #Shamu, #Kyuquot or #Kasatka. I'm assuming that's so they can sound authentically Eskimo-like or something? I've always found that odd. For these animals, freedom=happiness. I know there's an argument that people wouldn't be exposed to them otherwise and that it potentially helps species conservation yet there are no studies correlating whales or dolphins benefi

I've had lots of questions in recent months about sponsorships, who's supporting me, that sort of thing, so I figured I could most easily explain it here. I've been fortunate to go in a completely different direction and start a new brand called @outerknown. Early on in the process, I met with #TheKeringGroup to talk about partnering on brand creation and they immediately understood the ideas I/we had. We quickly came to an agreement of mutual support. They're helping Outerknown in any way necessary and I've become a #BrandAmbassador for any and all of their brands that make sense for both of us. In return, @volcom, @electric_california , @cobrapumagolf, and even #Brioni, @balenciaga, #Tretorn, #StellaMcCartney and others have all gotten behind me to lend their support in some way or another. I'll be working on surf specific product with Volcom and Electric Visuals and using Cobra/Puma golf gear while establishing Outerknown. I was recently in Paris to meet the

Checking in with Dr. Warren Kramer today. The good news... I'm gonna live. Bad news... A couple more weeks recovery. Warren has been the go-to surgeon for most every Surfer, Skater, BMX, and Moto guy I know. He's worked on me and a few dozen of my friends over the years and has been an invaluable source of knowledge on all topics medical. He's also not shy about telling us when we don't need any sort of procedure at all. Thanks for the last minute checkup! Here's to hoping I don't need to talk to you about any more injuries any time soon. #InGettingAntsy #MyBodyIsBeatUp #HopeHawaiiGoesFlatForAWhile

Repost from @joeljitsu. Amazing what people will pull when they have a little authority and a bad attitude. I hope you guys just ignored him and pretended you all just happened to be there going for a surf! #HumansSuck but I hope the #WoundedWarriors still got a few waves. Please repost!

Blessings to you, Dorian #DocPaskowitz. You've been a beacon of truth, light, knowledge, and determination for all of your surfing brothers. Despite numerous reports of Doc's passing over the last week, he quietly said his #LastGoodbye this evening. I was lucky enough to spend time with him a few days ago and get a couple of big hugs and this final photo. He was passionate about diet and exercise but his biggest wish was to see peace in Gaza between Israel and Palestine and always believed that those who could surf together, could live together peacefully. He told me that if they would 'pave the streets of Palestine in gold' there would be peace between the people. He personally walked donated surfboards over the Israeli border to give to his Palestinian surfing brethren as a sign of respect and acknowledgment. Maybe one day his true dream will be realized. I'll miss this crazy, old man who helped raise my little brother and teach me about the ways of the world. Con

FootPrognosis...I broke my second and third toes and also sprained three or four toes on left foot surfing Cloudbreak a couple days ago. Three weeks or so of healing in a walking boot and a couple more weeks of some rehab but should be ready to go by the #PipeMasters waiting period. The foamball from the lip landing inside the barrel bounced back up and flipped the board into my foot, hyper-extending the toes backwards. My second toe was sitting kind of across my third one so I knew something was a little off. The worst thing about it was how good the surf was and having to watch from the sidelines afterwards. At least the boys scored a few before the wind went bad and swell backed off. The day before that I went over the falls and broke my fin off with my knee so I'm actually probably lucky to not have gotten hurt worse. Good time to reflect and cleanse the body after two weeks of bacon and barrels on @tavaruaislandresort! Thanks for all the messages from friends and strangers t

AI and I in France a few years back. We had our first ever real back and forth battle in a quarter final heat in small surf at the Quik Pro in Hossegor, France in 2002. I thought I won the heat and yelled at the judges afterwards. Haha. Andy went on to make the final with #NecoPadaratz then proceeded to go on a tear thru France and was literally unbeatable there for 3 years, which was unbelievable given it's such an unpredictable wave. Just showed the guy's depth and adaptability in different conditions along with a huge drive not only to win but to dominate. In '05 Andy was way behind in an early heat and nearly lost before coming back to win that heat and ultimately the event. I remember him yelling, "Keep that champagne on ice!", to all the Quiksilver guys when they were getting ready to celebrate my potential world title at that event. Just silenced everyone! They #BrokeTheMold after this guy was born. I'm thankful we got to share some personal times togeth

Dreaming of that session again from last week @toddglaser, @gotfilm, @aritz_aranburu, and @seabassz. It's not often these days you get to surf by yourself or with just a couple friends in perfect waves. Luckily this spot is dangerous enough to ward off the crowds. Just in front of the wave you can see a line of rock trying to poke its head out of the water and the bigger waves would move just outside of it to give you some breathing room. Glad I didn't get hurt 'til I stepped on an urchin back on dry land! Ha. Thanks for the shot, @cidoubleyou.

Cut an orange around the center and save the top half of the rind. Take all the fruit out and leave the center stem. Add olive oil and you have a homemade candle. Saw it in a magazine the other day. Works great. Got car stuck in the sand all day and had to retrieve it tonight, had perfect barrels to myself all morning but then lost a crucial heat in the contest. Overall it was a very thorough day. #SuchIsLife. Good night.

Thank you to the City of #Peniche for honoring me with the #KeyToTheCity a few days ago at the contest. The Mayor is a huge surf fan and makes sure everyone feels at home in Portugal. The city even named rooms after myself and a few others in the local surf lodge and offered free lodging in my room any time I need, stocked with as many cans of #Sardines as I can eat (Peniche is also a fishing town famous for their sardines, btw).

@gopro #hero4 media day here in Portugal today. Great to talk cameras and learn about a couple features I wasn't unlocking myself. Probably a few lay days this week from the contest so there's potential for barrel shots in between gale force winds and squalls of rain. #HugeSwellComing so I wouldn't be surprised to see some 50' Nazar in the coming days. Stay tuned.

ModernDayPostcards. Seagulls over sunsets in #Hossegor, France.

@kalanimiller and I with @jimmybuffett at dinner in France the other night. Who'd've thunk a kid from Biloxi, Mississippi, born on Christmas Day, would grow up to write a bunch of hit songs, have a bunch of successful businesses, pilot his own planes around the world, love to surf and fish wherever he goes, and be one of the nicest guys you'd ever get to meet? Oh, and he speaks (and even sings in) perfect French so we made him order for us. It's nice when you grow up with a person's influence and then get to know them and they're exactly what you'd imagined. Reminds me a lot of times with my Dad. It's a pleasure and an honor to call this man a friend after humming his tunes my whole childhood. #GreatFillingStationHoldup #GodsOwnDrunk

Thanks, @gopro. Received my new #Hero4 and I'm ready to geek out! I've worked with #GoPro for a few years now and I'm more and more excited each time a new model comes out. Most people probably assume I know about these ahead of time but when a new camera model arrives that's my notice. This time they've upped the low light capabilities, doubled the Hi-fi sound, increased processing speed, included 4K30 frame rate and #Protune settings that allow you to manually control a bunch of features for true #GoProGeeks. Anyway, back to shooting and looking for beachbreak barrels in France this week, just in time to get some good POV's for #XmasPresents this year?! Could make my shopping a lot easier.

Thanks for the @gopro , @anthony_walsh_, this one from West Oz earlier this year on a rare NW swell. If you're near your computer, don't miss the @asp matchups starting shortly. Small, clean surf here in France today. I'm surfing against @sealtooth, a rematch of our finals here just two years ago. Strange how that happens. #GPAthlete #ItsOn #Baguettes

HBD to my #Godson, #ActionJackson... #LittleMonster destined for big things in life. The day he was born, @gotfilm snapped a water shot of me in a perfect #Mundaka barrel with a rainbow in the offshore spray. 'Twas a good omen. Miss you, little buddy! I need a new barrel shot of you from the next swell, JackJack. #BeyBladeOctagonBattle next time we meet! #LetErRip!!!

Anything better than a #StokeORama #Selfie? Check out the Gusauskas Brothers' annual contest at T Street in San Clemente today. These guys throw a great event for the kids and are truly the ultimate #SurfAmbassadors. #PositiveVibeWarriors. #Stoked I got a little time at the event this year. #TheGromsAreFrothing @sunnygarcia @patrickgud @tannergud @danedamus @foulkeyy @electricvisual

ItsTheMorningOfTheFinals. Tune in and let's see what happens at #TheHurleyPro. @cisurfboards @thechiaco @gopro. : @badboyryry_

Great to see a bunch of the kids from @mendesbros's school, #AOJ, down here for the start of #TheHurleyPro at Trestles this morning. Tune in to aspworldtour.com to watch live event starting now! Waves are pumping. #TheseKidsWillTapYouOut

Sometimes we don't get to say #goodbye properly. In that sense, I was blessed today. #RestInPeace @kalanifoster and say 'Go!' to #Marvin if you run into him. Gonna miss you guys. Thank you, Ednette! #ImNoGoodAtGoodbyes

Never pass up an opportunity to spend time with friends and family. My friend, #KalaniFoster (with wife Ednette) is doing it tough in his battle with cancer and I wish I could be there with you guys now. If you've ever surfed a good day at #Haleiwa in the past 40 years, you've likely seen Kalani on the beach or on the bombs from out the back at Haleiwa Beach Park. His brother, Marvin, always looked out for me and Kalani has always been a good friend and I'm reminiscing on so many good sessions we've shared over the years. Sending you good thoughts and well wishes to feel better, my friend.

@mikoh_ is having a #TrunkShow right now until midday at #HapaJs in San Clemente. I know the girls love sales but it's also not a bad occasion for guys to use as an excuse for getting your girl a gift. @kalanimiller @oleemamiller @charlene_miller

Locker rooms at #TheHurleyPro. My new @cisurfboards rounded-squash, epoxy #Rookie feels really good. Can't wait to get going. Maybe Tuesday for three straight days on the new swell and we'll #GitErDun. Thanks for the , @badboyryry_. @purps @gopro

It's been a long time coming and I'm proud to let you know that the clothing brand I've been working on has launched our 'Handshake Website' at Outerknown.com this morning. Our team, lead by designer John Moore and supported by our strategic partner, The Kering Group, are tirelessly working on a brand that blends the relationship between style, sustainability, and travel. I believe we have an obligation to build better products and understand the way our consumption impacts the world around us. In saying that, the focus of our brand is to make a product that has a positive effect on every possible level. I look forward to telling you more as the brand develops and beginning today you can follow our daily feed at @Outerknown to learn more. #Outerknown #BeLikeWater #LaunchingFall2015

As surfers, we are lucky to spend so much of our time immersed in the ocean. This being so, we are directly effected by changes in the quality of the water that surrounds us. Protecting the ocean's ecosystem is our duty. We are its stewards. Wild salmon not only feed humans but they play a vital role in the ecosystem as they drive ocean-borne proteins up rivers and thousands of miles inland to become integrated into the ecosystem - feedings birds, bears, trees, and bugs. The culture and history of our coastal communities is based on having healthy fisheries. While wild salmon struggle throughout the Pacific, Bristol Bay thrives as the greatest source of wild sockeye on the planet. We cannot let it be threatened by a massive open pit gold mine at it's headwaters. Please take Action to #SaveBristolBay by clicking the link in my bio. #LeaveTheGoldInTheGround #MyDadWasAFisherman