Nogne-O Porter

In
the early days of the American beer revolution, when microbrews were as
scarce as hens’ teeth and only a handful of craft brewers dotted the
landscape, asking a pioneering brewer about his inspiration would usually
get you a fairly universal response. Usually, it was travel to Europe, most
likely Germany, or England, or maybe Belgium, and exposure to the great beer
over there that instilled a desire to make the same over here in the states.

Now, it seems, the circle is complete. The other day, I picked up a bottle
of Nøgne Porter, a dark ale brewed by an upstart Norwegian
microbrewer. The brewers at Nøgne claim they were inspired by the hearty
beers being made nowadays in America-hence completing a circle that began
some thirty years or so ago.

That makes Nøgne Porter a prime candidate for our little flight of fancy
Around the World in Eighty Brews, a visit by bottle to almost every
corner of the globe. And while some might argue beers like Ringnes a better
known candidate, I would submit in reply that Nøgne Porter is a great
ambassador for Norway all the same, and of the budding beer renaissance the
brewers at Nøgne hope to spark.

Norway is very near to the Baltic States, and therefore the home of those
wonderful bottom fermented porters. But Nøgne Porter, true to its American
inspirations, is an ale, though brewed with English yeast. It’s
exceptionally robust character is similar to a Baltic porter, though, and
well suited to take the chill off of a cold Norwegian evening. It’s made
with a number of malts: Munich, black, chocolate, caramel, and Maris Otter.

Nøgne Porter pours to a jet black color with a thick creamy tan head
and a distinctly coffeeish nose. The palate is medium in body and extremely
robust. As soon as you sip, the intensely roasty and to be quite frank
somewhat harsh espresso flavors grab hold of your tongue and never let go.
Bittersweet chocolate, licorice, fig, and prune emerge in short order.

The finish is extremely bitter, with two kinds of bitteress really, both
from the roasted malt and the hops. The latter provide a grassy, slightly
herbal aroma and flavor as well as bitterness. This is, therefore, not a
beer for the timid, and even some beer geeks may be put off a bit by its
magnitude. For my part, I love it, and think it a real treat.

I enjoyed the last quarter of my half liter bottle with a slice of
cheesecake, and immediately decided this was a wonderful dessert brew. The
slightly oily, intensely coffeeish roasty notes accented the smooth and
creamy dessert perfectly. Overall, Nøgne Porter is simply a unique and
heavenly beer-and a great example of Norway in a bottle.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.