Singapore is on the "milk run"
from Aus if you are en route to Malaysia and Thailand. It was
going to be our first significant stop-over since Darwin, and
we were not going to miss it for quids. But the Singapore we
visited this time was very different from the Singapore we remembered
when Lloyd and I last visited in the early 70's. Back then we
wore Levi jeans and long hair, and we were always broke. Singapore
might have changed but I couldn't help noticing we hadn't - we
were still wearing jeans, both needed a hair-cut and now we own
a boat, which keeps us practically broke.

We had just spent four wonderful days in
the calm waters of the Kumai River, and with that adventure behind
us now, we couldn't wait to turn west under Kalimantan and then
north towards Singapore - our favourite stop so far.

From Kalimantan you can hi-tail it straight
to Singapore or you can dilly-dally as long as you like doing
a few overnighters, stopping off at the island groups on the
way and allowing time for the traditional "Over the Equator
Party". From the bottom of Batam Island it's a long day
sail up the Riau Strait, but get the tide on your side and it's
a sling-shot ride out of the Strait and around the top of the
island to Nongsa Point Marina. It's from here that you can sit
back in comfort for a few days and plan your attack on Singapore
and its notorious strait.

Once you are squared away at Nongsa Point
you have a few choices on how to plan your visit to Singapore.
Most cruisers leave their yachts at Nongsa Point marina and take
the "very fast" ferry ride over to Singapore to get
a first hand look at the strait and check out the marina facilities
available, before returning to Nongsa to take their yachts over
for a more extended stay on the island. As new kids on the block
we choose this option, but for some of our more seasoned cruising
friends, this was just another day at the office, and they simply
threw their ropes and made a B-line for Singapore.

From the bridge deck of the ferry you get
a pretty good look at the traffic separation scheme in one of
the busiest ports in the world. The ferry lands at the Tanah
Merah Ferry Terminal and from here it's a taxi ride to the train
station and a train ride into the city. With over 15,000 taxis
on the island nobody waits long for a ride. Public transport
is just a breeze in Singapore. The train system or "MRT"
(Mass Rapid Transport) as it is affectionately known is cheap,
clean, fast and air-conditioned and certainly one of the things
that Singapore can brag about. The pushing and shoving at peak
hour will get right up your snout and you can forget about getting
a seat - it won't happen, but the trains travel so fast it doesn't
really matter anyway.

During our few days in Singapore before
returning to Nongsa Point marina to collect our boat we discovered
that the island now boasts several very nice marinas, some with
haul-out facilities, chandleries, bars, restaurants, and let's
not forget the complimentary poolside robe and towel service,
a little over the top compared to our marina back home, but nevertheless
a lifestyle we could certainly accommodate for a week or two.

Getting Chappie over the Strait to Singapore
wasn't as easy as jumping the fast ferry. Make no mistake Singapore
Strait is busy. We had 32 blips on the radar, and a quick glance
around the horizon told us they were all bigger than us. We took
the advice of those that had gone before us, that is, cross at
right angles to the traffic and pass behind everything!! A walk
in the park you might think and it could have been if we hadn't
hit a submerged object just as we were about to make our crossing.
First came the thud, and then the motor stalled. Next came that
look I've seen on Lloyd's face before. The one that says "I
think we're in a bit of strife!" And I know exactly what
to do when I see that look - go below and pretend I'm doing something
useful...... and its just as well I did, we were taking water.
The deep-sea seal had momentarily opened up and allowed water
into the boat. As if we weren't nervous enough about the prospect
of crossing one of the world's busiest shipping lanes, we now
looked like we might sink. Fortunately the seal took up again
as quickly as it had let go, and we were soon under way again.

New legislation passed in May 2002 requires that all foreign
yachts and pleasure craft carry out their immigration clearance
on board and at sea. So once safely over the shipping lanes the
first stop is at one of the two Immigration Anchorages for your
clearance into the country. On arrival we called Immigration
on Ch 74 and were immediately approached by the officials in
their barge-like vessel. It was pitching up and down with huge
black tyres suspended from its port and starboard sides. I clearly
remember Lloyd's words as they came alongside. "It might
have been simplier to sink on the southern side of the channel
than be hit by this thing". But they are obviously very
good at what they do, coming alongside to within an arms reach
to collect our papers. The whole procedure takes about 5 minutes
and pretty soon we were underway again with our fourteen-day
pass stamped in our passports. We'd decided to stay around at
Raffles Marina on the western shore, some 25nm away, and with
ships moving in and out of their designated anchorages all around
us we felt like we'd been pretty well boxed around the ears by
the time we tied off at the marina.

At right... Loyde
and Lynelle Parker of

SY "Chappie"

Where to stay.....
If you decide to leave your yacht at Nongsa Point and visit the
island via the fast ferry, accommodation is easy to find, you
can pay as much as you like, and you'll pretty much get what
you pay for. The equivalent of $50-70 Aus dollars will get you
a comfortable room with air-conditioning, attached bathroom and
TV. Of course if you have a wad in your wallet you just can't
wait to part with, Raffles Hotel will let you stay on as long
as you like in one of their little cheapies for about AUS$650
a night. If you are intending to stay on your boat, check out
the facilities that best suit your needs. Even though Raffles
Marina is about an hour out of Singapore city proper by bus and
MRT, we choose to stay there. The facilities were very good,
movies, restaurants, chandlery, and a pool (complete with the
complimentary fluffy white towels).Food for thought.....
So what does one do in Singapore for fourteen days you might
ask? Well, eating is going to take up a considerable amount of
your time because in Singapore fun is literally "dished
up". We soon discovered their national pastime, and by the
time we had left Singapore we were carrying our fair share of
excess baggage!! It's at the hawker centres where you will find
a veritable feast of Chinese, Malay, Thai and Indian treats.
The amenities are basic, the atmosphere is bustling, the prices
are unbeatable and the food is authentic and tasty. We had no
idea what we were ordering sometimes, but if it looked good on
someone else's plate, we used the international gesture that
is universally understood - look and point.
If you want to have a smiling waitress sashay around your table
and talk you into ordering a peel-off-the-bone Caroline Honey
Baby Back (whatever that is??) you will pay a little more than
we did for our meals.

Shop Talk....
If eating is the national pastime for Singaporeans, then shopping
must come in a close second. The shopping centres are open from
about 10am to 9pm daily and if you have never "shopped till
you dropped" you can do
it right here. If you are feeling pretty cocky that you
haven't spent too much do ra me since leaving Aus, be careful,
you can really drop a bundle in this town. You name it - Singapore
has it for sale. The character building stuff is trying to find
it. But because this is the obvious place to buy new boat electronics,
computers, digital cameras and all those "toys" we
don't seem to be able to live without, it's worth putting in
the time here.

Orchard Road is the main shopping strip
and while your man is out buying electronics any girl worth her
salt can do some serious spending in this neck of the woods.
If you like bookshops you will love Borders, at Wheelock Place.
Back home you'd be in serious strife for standing in the newspaper
store reading the latest copy of your favourite magazine, but
here they actually encourage browsing and to prove it they provide
you with seating to do just that. It's quite a "novel"
idea really. And when you run out of shops to browse, look for
the arrow in some of the shopping complexes that amused us most
- the sign under the arrow simply says "MORE SHOPS".

So much to see and do.....
Our favourite visit was Jurong Bird Park. Home to over 8,000
birds from 600 species, this is the largest bird park in all
of Southeast Asia and home to
one of the largest hornbill collections in the world. We took
the "Night Safari" and wandered through the world's
first night zoo. Clever lighting makes it possible to view the
animals from Asia, Africa and South America in their natural
habitat at night. And if you have trudged around the shops all
day and you don't feel like walking, jump on the tram that runs
continuously through the park. We spent long afternoons in the
Singapore Zoological Gardens, and quiet mornings wandering through
the Singapore Botanic Gardens. Take in breakfast and stroll through
the National Orchid Garden housing some
60,000 plants and orchids. For a great view of Singapore, head
up to Mount Faber, or take the cable car to Sentosa Island, an
immaculately kept giant playground

Just south of Singapore. Raffles Hotel,built
in 1887 was restored to its original old world charm during the
1980's, and still qualifies today as one of the world's greatest
19th century hotels. They do a Sunday brunch that is to die for,
but you need to book in early.

Ethnic Singapore......
We visited Arab Street, Chinatown, and Little India and found
some of the most exquisite batik, fine lace, and silks. These
are great places for dining and ideal places to pick up souvenirs
as well as some fine antiques.
If its history you want - Singapore has plenty of it, and you
can spend at least a morning or afternoon in any one of their
excellent museums.

We had fourteen wonderful days in Singapore
and when it came time to check out we visited the Harbourmasters
office once more for our port clearance. Clearing with Immigration
and Customs is a little more complicated. You see its quite a
"backtrack" around to the Western Quarantine area from
Raffles Marina, to check out with immigration, if you are heading
north up the Malacca Straits, but it is possible to have Immigration
come out to the marina. The only catch is that a fee is levied
to cover the taxi fare for the officer to come to your boat.
Luckily for us, four yachts were clearing the same morning and
we were able to share the AUS$50 fee between us.

A friend of ours told us that Singapore
is "Asia for beginners" - Since leaving Singapore we
have cruised Malaysia and we are currently in Thailand. Reflecting
back on his comment, he wasn't far off the mark. We loved it,
and we will return, if only to line up at the Long Bar at Raffles
Hotel and order the legendary "Singapore Sling".