When "Made in India" came into fashion

Ethically sound label behno launches today, February 7

Shivam Punjya's endeavour to create an ethically sound fashion label led to the inception of behno. Channeling the flavour of the moment, 'Make in India', the designs are etched out in their NY atelier but the birth of the garment takes place in India.

Citing the Rana Plaza tragedy in Bangladesh as a catalyst, the domino effect of the incident compelled him to work towards curbing the garment industry's vices. By parterning with MSA ethos, behno aims at setting a benchmark that will bring about a change in the conditions of the workers.

Under the creative direction of Jasonpaul McCarthy, the label offers a line of structurally sound and aesthetically minimal design pieces. Vogue's fashion features director, Bandana Tewari is also championing behno's cause for ethical fashion and effort to improve the the condition of garment workers. The label launches today, February 7, with a special preview of their fall/winter 2015 collection in Mumbai.

Q: What gave you the idea of starting a company that bases its production in India but functions out of New York?

A: If you had asked me a couple years ago if I ever saw myself working in fashion, I would have chuckled. I wanted to work in the consulting space for developing economies. Everything for behno has fallen into place so serendipitously and organically!

I would attribute what I do today to my education at U.C. Berkeley, because it exposed me to a way of thinking that is fundamental to addressing issues and global progress. I had a professor, Ananya Roy, who really pushed me to question the status quo of the production and sustenance of poverty. Ananya had this air about her that really made her students question their own passions and plans for the future. I decided to study global health after studying political economics at California.

When I matriculated at Duke University to study global health, I was particularly focused on maternal and child health along with social entrepreneurship.

While I was conducting my thesis research in India, I came across khadi for the first time and fell in love with its beautiful texture and luxurious feel. I started to learn more about it and the weavers behind the textile by visiting rural villages in Gujarat; I came across the weavers, their families, and their homes. I soon noticed a very visible disparity between what they were producing and what they were earning. I soon learned that younger generations were stepping away from the art form due to lack of economic opportunities.

I was also exposed to external perceptions of "Made in India", which were either virtually nonexistent or quickly dismissed. Fashion and goods produced in India seemed to be dismissed as inferior quality, too embellished and embroidered ("crafty"), and often made under poor working conditions. I did not agree with this. I always felt that India had so much more to offer and show to the global community. I wanted to challenge these predisposed presumptions.

Simultaneously, on April 24, 2013, the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed and that really hit the mark for me – how could we prevent another fiasco like this from occurring in fashion but also be strategic in how we positively channel an industry that is predominantly powered by women and make it a change-maker in global health and international development?

That is how behno was born; it was about recreating a fashion label that refreshed an existing perception of "Made in India" and was designed in NYC with strong design sensibilities but also manufactured under ethical working conditions in India.

Q: Most garment houses overlook basic worker ethics. Tell us a little about how your production team functions.

A: I think that if we just take a step back and look at atrocities in fashion in recent history, we quickly see the Rana Plaza factory collapse as the largest. Over 1,100 workers were killed. Clearly, garment houses are overlooking basic worker ethics.

behno's partners, namely the non-profit (MSA) and factory partner (MSA Ethos), have been instrumental in understanding behno's mission, which is to redefine and bring sharp awareness to the craft and character of "made in India", and to set a new standard for Indian factory manufacturing that demonstrably improves the quality of life and safety of women in the garment trade. MSA Ethos will also implement "The behno Standard", which is broken into six categories: health, garment worker mobility, family planning, women's rights, worker satisfaction and benefits, and eco-consciousness. These categories will be rolled out as the factory continues to develop and the brand continues to expand.

Q: How does the label manage to adhere to strict international standards and finishes?

A: Luckily, for us, we have found an amazing industry veteran, Mr Mukesh Kothari, who has moved to the nonprofit (MSA or Muni Seva Ashram) that we are partnering with and is managing all of the factory efforts at MSA Ethos. Mr. Kothari, who used to serve as the President of Adidas in Germany, has also worked in Europe extensively before he started several garment factories in India that manufactured for various international brands. That said, you can only imagine how familiar he would be with the strict international standards when it comes to quality control and finishes. behno really is lucky and blessed to be able to work with such an amazing person.

Q: What part of the actual making happens in India and how much of it is done overseas?

A: All of our pieces are sewn and constructed in India. When it comes to ethical fashion and also showcasing great design, it becomes a collaborative effort between the various players within the landscape.

We currently source our fabrics and knits globally, but plan to work deeper within India to source non-traditional fabrics and artisan textiles to localise our products as much as possible.

Q: What was the story behind the Autumn Winter 2015 collection?

A: behno draws inspiration from Le Corbusier's interpretation of Chandigarh, India's first city to embrace the modernist movement. Le Corbusier's designs symbolize a new era where society was invited to reflect upon and optimize its resources by rediscovering traditional values and creation processes.

Fall/Winter 2015 stays true to tradition in its use of luxurious fabrics, ranging from wool with cashmere to silk organza and cotton to classic suiting and techy synthetic knit pieces. Abstract interpretations of Le Corbusier's paintings are sprinkled throughout, interpreted as boxy wool coats with sculptural tailoring and evolving into segmented knit jacquards, which uphold behno's youthful sensibilities.

Geometric patterns inspired by Le Corbusier's buildings are seen embedded in a top with an intarsia body, classic men's shirting sleeves, and a minimal cuff-link detail. The sheer yarn mimics the modular windows of Le Corbusier's buildings, while the blocks of merino wool and innovative synthetic yarn create a muted texture inspired by light and shadows. Silk crepe flows effortlessly in oversized dresses and, when bonded to spongy scuba fabrics, transforms into a unique, luxurious textile. Sophisticated solid hues of lilac and poppy red are introduced in knit jacquards with lambskin sleeves and backs, demonstrating behno's calculated use of bold colors in a very subtle manner. behno Fall/Winter 2015 pays homage to Le Corbusier's ability to create a space where art and architecture transcend into one.

Q: Where do you see behno is the next five years?

A: Of course, we would love to grow rapidly and become a global brand that is "made in India" and established for its design and social missions. Currently, we're focusing on ethical garmenting, but in the future, we would love to work more closely with nonprofits and artisan communities in India to include their craft in new and fresh ways. We want to really create a unique Indian product- that is as locally made as possible- that transcends what the globe's perception of "made in India" really is. I think there is great potential to display that "made in India" pieces can compete in the global contemporary space for womenswear.

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Shivam Punjya, founder of behno

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"All of our pieces are sewn and constructed in India"

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The A/W '15 line is inspired by Le Corbusier's interpretation of Chandigarh