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Posts by Susie Lau

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I thought it was a weird combo, Margiela's MM6 collaborating with Opening Ceremony, but in person it works. A lot of the pieces were based on 3-in-1 concepts illustrated by this pelmet/cargo/skirt combo...

Thakoon's A/W 2011 felt like a seismic shift as he turned to Rococo and Masai tribes as starting points, meshed with streetwear to make a potent combination that is a step up from his previous 'pretty-but-safe' outings.

For clothes that we can wear underneath all the big coats and parkas that we've seen at New York, I'm looking to printologists such as Suno and Duro Olowu, both presented at Milk Studios. All the better to get up close and personal with the print mish-mash that both labels do so well!

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It doesn't really matter what theme Thom Browne is gunning for, as his signature (be it through the precise way of matching pieces together or the tricolore stripe that runs through his work) always shines through. We started off with a troop of wimpled models that paraded out to "How Do You Solve a Problem Like Maria?" who one by one shed their cloaks to reveal a mix of chintzy checks and 60s' Balenciaga shapes and other traits that have pervaded his menswear.

Rachel Comey has a core cult following (mostly fellow Brooklynites) but I’d like to see her transcend that especially with her latest S/S 2012 collection that is full of covetable subtleties such as this forest green cable knit print.

The resort collections already clued us in but Richard Chai Love started the proceedings at S/S 2012 with a jubiliant floral print that is much lighter in tone than his usual grunge-inspired layered fare. I commend the subtle use of Swarovski too, as they run as dotted lines down this particular cut-out dress. Gotta earn that sponsorship y’all…

Any one of UK’s Z list celebrities might be well up for getting onboard with this number from Cushnie et Ochs. That might be an insult to the duo’s cutting skills. I’m not sure if I’m quite ready for tit-tape dresses and boobs-a-flailing but it’s brave of them to propose the notion...

I haven’t attended a single wedding this year but I feel like I’ve seen enough of them to last me a lifetime. Tara Subkoff’s return to Imitation of Christ was a cause for celebration that manifested itself into an ACTUAL wedding between Lydia Hearst and American Chad (I don’t know his actual name…. to me, he’s just a guy who looks like he might be called Chad….)

I’m not sure how Jason Wu managed to run the gamut from sporty parkas to floorlength gown all in one show, but he did it with aplomb and has convinced me that a skirt with a train is not an old-fashioned antiquity but something to luxuriate in, when the right moment comes.

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Sport is rampant at NYFW and surf is a familiar theme that comes back time and time again for spring summer but Rag & Bone articulated it in a way that felt incredibly relevant for the young gals who layer and mix it up and they have well and truly transcended their hip-preppy genre to be considered seriously amongst the heavyweights.

Suno goes from strength to strength with their debut show that really articulated why there is a new generation of New York designers that dare to have FUN with their designs. Their print mixing once again is spot on ranging from subtle mixes such as these Prarie-inspired looks to a more daring red metallic and lame combinations.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista kickstarted his tenure at Lacoste with a strong collection that shifted away from being strictly sportswear to pitching the French brand as something that can be worn day in, day out, beyond a tennis or a country club. These sexed up rugby shirt dresses are just one example of Baptista steering the brand beyond Dad-type poloshirts and clichéd tennis skirts.

Helmut Lang is now of course a different beast to the namesake the brand stemmed from. As a contemporary label with a grungey aesthetic that has a keen customer base, Helmut Lang fulfills that niche perfectly. Just wondering if it really needed such a big cavernous warehouse space to make that point…