Restoring Retro in Home and Dress

July 2016

07/28/2016

Supposedly a quick project, this skirt took me 3 weeks to complete. Not because it was difficult, but because it was hard to find time to sew. But at last it is finished, and in a pretty shade of solid blue is a great addition to my wardrobe, which badly needs basics.

I was going for a very accurate look this time, so my blouse is a modern thrift-store find, and my shoes are 1940s. You can call it vintage-inspired if you like.

The skirt is from a 1950s pattern but I think has classic elements that make it suitable for other eras as well. It looks kind of 1930s to me, actually. Maybe that's because so many skirts in the 1930s had those low pleats at the hem. This one has 2 in the front and 1 in the back, and I like the way they flow when I'm walking.

This was a new territory for me. Fitted skirts are something to be cautious with, but I figured I could always not topstitch the pleats if needed. The pleats are inserted all the way down, and top stitched. I stopped the top stitching right above the knee, and love how the pleats give it extra fullness so that it is still modest when I sit down.

It is too fitted around the hips, I think, so I'll wear it with tops that come down over the waist - and next time take a pleat in the pattern pieces at the hips to adjust the flare a little.

Otherwise it's fairly basic...I did French seams everywhere except the zipper seam. The fabric - now that is a different story! I got this length of twill and it was soft, and a great shade of blue. I washed it - and it came out as stiff as cardboard. I folded it up and put it away, trying to figure out what to do with it. Some time later I pulled it out again, thinking it would be a great fabric for a skirt (one of the fabric suggestions on this pattern is actually twill) - and it was soft again! So I happily made this skirt, only to have it dry on a hanger after wearing and laundering it for the first time...and it was stiff as cardboard again. Ironing softened it up, but it's quite weird, and the iron leaves marks, so I'm sure it will be only for everyday wear. But a good trial version of this pattern just the same. :-)

Once again I was reminded of how easy skirts are, compared to dresses or even blouses. No sleeves, facings, collars, etc. Even ones like this, with a little more involved, are quick and comparatively simple. A nice way to feel like you got a lot accomplished in a little time!

07/23/2016

Today I want to show you one of my newer sewing projects, which again demonstrates how simple and classy can go hand in hand.

After purchasing this pattern, I was intrigued by the plaid version with the front panels cut on the bias. I knew I had to try it, so out came a length of green and black plaid fabric which I hoped would make a suitable dress for summer. (I like to wear dark colors in the summer so I don't have to wear so many layers.)

I wasn't so thrilled with the fabric. It has a really clingy nap that attracts dust and lint like magnets, and it is ever so slightly scratchy. But the pattern and dress overall I was very pleased with! It's simple and smart.

That skirt yoke is flattering and adds interest, and while I didn't do a good job with plaid matching unfortunately, I love the subtle detail the bias panels contribute and would love to do it again on another version - and pay attention to doing a better matching job!

The fabric hides the top stitching pretty well, but the yoke is top stitched on the front. I also top stitched on either side of the seam on the back skirt seams. Just for fun. And ease in pressing since that holds the seams open.

The skirt has that 1950s flare that doesn't require a crinoline, and the stiffish fabric (the upside to not being a soft fabric) helps keep the silhouette. Except when you're trying to take pictures, and it's breezy! Ahem!

While I intended to wear it as a house dress, the vintage black and gold buttons dress it up and I decided it should be accessorized for these photos as if it were an afternoon dress, so I went with all black or black and gold accessories. I love the small roll-back collar and it always stays in place, which is a definite plus. I like the plaid play of a self collar, but a contrasting one would look great too - maybe for my next version.

The vintage purse is I think 1940s, but it matched so well I had to carry it anyway. The pumps are 1950s black suede heels; the belt is probably from the 1980s or later, but again has the right feel for the era.

The cocktail hat, in black velvet and gold patterned brocade, is another dressy touch that takes the dress to a smart town-to-dinner level.

Other than the yoke and bias panels, it's super easy and rather basic. Darted front and back, set in sleeves (which I added bias trim to instead of just facing them), and simple gored skirt. Buttons down the front and side zipper - all classic vintage dress elements.

I like to call this kind of sewing project Basic-But-Not-Boring. Sometimes you want to fuss over lots of fiddly details and spend hours doing hand sewing or something similar, but sometimes something easy yet a little out of the ordinary is called for. Something simple but with a special fashion touch that catches your interest. Especially when you want a quickly finished project. This one took parts of two or three afternoons to complete in a leisurely fashion.

This is the first time I've tried using different button sizes like this, but I think it works! Nothing like taking on small adventures. :-)

And even when I'm just wearing it accessory-less, with a black belt, for everyday wear, it feels ultra-1950s!

07/14/2016

I know I'm posting this project disgracefully late, and I apologize. I kept waiting for the right opportunity when I could get photos of this dress before it became wrinkled after a day's wear, and finally realized it wasn't likely to happen, so I took photos anyway despite the wrinkled state.

It's the dress I made for Easter Sunday this year, and another one in the lineup of green garments I made this spring when I was on a green fabric binge for some reason. (The others were my 1940s 2 piece suit, and flowered house dress).

I had already made a trial version before I cut into the sage green linen I'd been saving for this project, and besides being faster to make since I knew what I was doing, this version turned out much better in both fit and finish - which is how it should be!

This time I made the tie collar option - which I absolutely love! - and added the half belt in the back so it's worn without a coordinating separate belt yet has the trim look a belt provides. The linen pleats press so nicely.

It's my favorite pattern so far for the slender 1950s style of dress. Easy to make and yet with special details that makes a project a favorite.

Back kick pleat detail:

For my transition from winter wear to spring, I went with a delicate color scheme and paired it with all ivory accessories in the same creamy shade - my favorite summer vintage heels, vintage hat and gloves, and matching jewelry set. The flower clip and bag are modern.

I know...an Easter dress should have a lush green background and blooming flowers, not sun-dried Idaho summer hills! That's what I get for procrastinating. :-)

So...at long last there is my 1950s Easter dress for 2016! I suppose better shared late than never. :-)

07/09/2016

I've had a white dress in mind to make for a long time. A classic white summer dress, no matter in which decade, is such a staple in a vintage wardrobe and I had none. So when I bought this Spadea pattern, it went to the top of my sewing queue.

And I envisioned it in white, or off white, with a contrasting front panel. So I pulled out some loose-weave linen from the stash, and spent some time in a leisurely way putting the dress together.

It was one of those projects that goes together quickly then takes a while to finish. It was really interesting to put together, with princess seams in the back, and a darted panel inserted in the side front.

The facings were so easy, with a button-up dress like this. But there were so - many - buttonholes to make! And it was a covered button lover's dream project. The fabric was way too easily frayed to cover the buttons, so I went with a white satin and really like the white-on-white look. (Yes, I know tithe dress looks a little baggy on the mannequin - but it's several sizes smaller than I am! :-)

So much detail too, in such a simple, classic style. Besides the inserted panel, I love the little half belts that button on the sides. (Only I sewed them on to save making 4 more buttonholes!)

I like the way the weave looks on the fabric I used, but it is fairly heavy fabric and was a pain to work with because it frayed so easily. I don't know how I would have managed without the serger! So it probably is more of a spring dress than a summer dress, because of its weight.

Of course I had to go a step farther and make panels that switch out, by just pinning on the buttons. I made a handful of them, one of them reversible, so I have a total of 5 different panels to button in the front of the dress.

Just re-pin the buttons, and you've got a whole new look!

I enjoyed this dress, not hurrying over it, and working on it a bit at a time, especially once it reached the handwork stage. It was my first Spadea pattern, so I didn't rush it. The only trouble I had with it was a little bit of fitting issues - the princess seams are easy to adjust, but the panels ended up a little too wide after I'd made the dress a little smaller, so the facing doesn't hide the panel edges completely.

It's another example of how simplicity is often the most elegant option, and how understated can still be ultra-feminine and classy.