The Tibetan word Bardo means literally "intermediate state" - also translated as "transitional state" or "in-between state" or "liminal state".
Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person (the surfer) rides a board (the surfboard) on the crest of a wave as it carries the surfer towards the shore.

Friday, December 09, 2005

Race against time

Today's Hawaiian adventure promised to have three parts to it. Beginning soon after I awoke, with tennis. The second segment involved, hopefully, the aquisition of a 9ft Realm surfboard - not an easy task considering the latest development in the world of surfboard shaping. The third part was dependent on the success of the second - actually surfing and catching a wave.

Doubles is the name of the game and involves a variety of skills and strategy. Tennis is not an easy sport. It rewards precision, quick reflexes, focus, unpredictability and consistency. I teamed up with my mother and my father teamed up with Lynn. The first set went to Lynn and my dad 6-4. The second set saw a big momentum shift. Mom and I made very few unforced errors and dominated with winners. We won 6-1. The third set saw the momentum stay with us until I blew an easy match point that would have given us the victory 6-2. We had another match point that disappeared. I struggled to keep my resolve. We had another match point at 5-4 but again could not convert. Thus, we lost a close one today.

Back in the condo, Dad hands me the phone, he's already dialed Costco. "Hello, my name's Michael, I'm wondering if you have any surf boards in stock."

"Hold on one sec, let me check... we have 14 short boards and 2 longboards."

"Can you one on hold for me, I'm an hour away."

"No, sorryyy."

"That's OK, good bye."

We take off within 10 minutes in the green Ford Explorer. I'm driving. The time is 12 PM. This is a good window. It's Friday and we need to get there quick. Remember, it's X-mas time and there's the whole possible surf board shortage. We cruise along with the radio on AM playing songs frozen in time from the 70's. We listen to many of the songs that we heard driving around years ago: Kenny Rogers, The Bee Gees, Sting, The Carpenters as the traffic slows down and speeds up.

Arriving at Costco, we find a spot in the front row. I hustle along, thinking that every second is precious. It kind of feels like we're on the "Amazing Race" or something. Dad flashes his Costco card at the door person and we slip inside. Past the jewlery, past the video cameras, past the food samplers, heading for the sports department in this giant warehouse.

Aisle 315, there's the surfboards and - Uhh no long boards. Bummer. Someone beat us to them in that 1 hour it took to get here. Ug. Hmm, go ask someone who words here. We head back, looking for some one who might know, some one with those little ID thingeroonies on theire breast pocket. I spot two employees. They answer my queries: "No, sorry, no more long boards. Some guy just bought the last two," That's when the other dude says: "Hawaii Kai, I was just there, they have a bunch."

"Really?"

"Yeah, let me go check."

My dad does not hesitate even though it is another hour further away. There are supposed to be nine long boards, so our odds are very good. The guy said that they'd definitely be there. It is 1:30 PM, and hopefully we have a window thru all the traffic and congestion that happens on H1 and H2. We arrive just under an hour later, hustle thru the store, find the surf boards and -

There they are, all nine boards are still available. Whoo! I take my time and look thru them all and end up settling on the one with red racing stripes on it. I make sure that there are 3 fins tucked within the bubble wrap. While I am there, 3 other surfers come by and grab a board, now there are only 5 left. If you want one, I suggest you hurry.

The ride back was delayed by a couple stops here and there and so we did not get back to Turtle Bay until 5 PM. 15 minutes later, fins are on and board is waxed and I am running along the side of the golf course with my brand new 9 foot long board.

The paddle out is fast and easy as I power thru the breaking waves. The swell direction has not changed, only a handful of folks out there and some of the waves are as big as a house. I fun wave greets me right as I get outside and BAM! I catch it, pop to my feet and get a sweet little ride on an overhead. Cool. I stay out for another 45-60 minutes while the sun gets swallowed by the sea and the stars come out to play. I catch a few more waves, get pummeled, scratch my foot on the reef and paddle in the twilight under a purple sky.