The iron’s are new 5/8” plow plane irons ordered from Stanley. The wood is walnut finished with a couple of thin seal coats of shellac, followed by steel wool and dark wax.

The plane went to LukieB, the pictures above with the white background are courtesy of him since he is much better at taking pictures than I am.

Read below for more information than you ever wanted to know about Side Rabbet Planes!——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————These are some notes I took for Lucas to help him use these tricky planes:• Depth of cut is pretty much set at ~.005” and not adjustable. It can be set to cut shallower but then the tip of the iron won’t get to the bottom of the groove, likewise if it is set for a heavier cut the tip will dig in to the bottom of the groove.• The tip of the iron should be “docked” see the instructions for the Veritas version for details on this: http://www.leevalley.com/US/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=60226• Grinding the iron down and removing some of the “docking” could get you a shallower cut but I set it as shallow as I could for now. Also to little docking makes the tip weak. • The original design called for the wooden clamp being further forward. This got in the way when working inside most narrow grooves so I moved it further back and knocked off the bottom corner. As is, it will work inside a 3/8” groove up to ¼” deep. You could shave a little of the wooden clamp if you needed to get a little deeper but I figured ¼” should cover most needs. • One important subtlety I’ve figured out is that the position of the wedge slightly forward or backwards can affect the depth of cut across the blade. This can cause the clamp to put more pressure on one side of the wedge causing one side to cut deeper or shallower. Play with that before changing the angle on the blade. • The plane body can be flexed with hand pressure so keep that in mind when using it. • The plane can be used to clean up sliding DT’s if you cut a 1:6 (or whatever) angle on the non-cutting side of the sole. o This will only work on the tongue part of the T&G because the wooden clamp will get in the way when doing the groove. Just a limitation of this design. However, in a pinch you could remove the wooden clamp and use a C-clamp over the top of the plane. Would be ghetto but it would work.o Because of the above and because these planes don’t do the best job on end grain I left the sole square which helps keep the plane vertical. o Just in case you do want to modify the sole I left the brass wear plate unglued so it can be removed, that way you don’t cut into the screws. Also I found out (the hard way) that polyurethane glue breaks down from the heat of flattening the sole which is another reason I didn’t glue it, no point.

Here are a few more pics of the plane and the build process.

The Red Oak prototype:

Rabbets:

Carving the blade bed.

This is where my first plane blew up and why I sent it late. I tried to go for a full length brass sole. The problem is with so much grinding the glue failed due to the heat. I didnt realize this until I went to drill out the philips screws (should have used slotted because the Philips socket goes to deep and will show when you file off the screw heads). Anyway, the screws blew out the other side when I tried to drill them out so it was a mess. I’ll fix this one and make it a user.

So, don’t do that! Leave the back part wood and the front works better if its brass with a tight mouth.

These are seriously neat little planes… I really wish I had a set myself. I’ll have to read through your build more carefully later, as it seems really extensive and useful. The brass insert near the mouth is a nice touch, too.