Description

This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensens Jaunt.

Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn."

A classic second pitch. We linked this with Traitor Horn for full value. With a 70m rope I belayed for the 2nd pitch after the first traverse past the "traitor" horn. With long runners rope drag can be avoided easily.

For clarification: Pitch One: Easy 5.3 to an alcove with a tree. Pitch Two: 5.8 crack with a nice to hands rest on the left before committing to a nice layback to a good roof pull. Complete the first traverse under the "Traitor Horn" to a belay if linking to the "Traitor Horn" route. 70m rope might be required for this. Pitch Three: Up the corner a bit from the belay, then traverse right to clip a pin then figure out how to mount the horn. Don't blow the moves onto the horn or you will find your self with a ugly fall. Once standing on the horn. Move over the lip and belay 30ft higher in a wide crack. Pitch Four: Up and right for a nice friction pitch. Standard friction descent from there.

Some may find Sam's comment above to be true, although Coffin Nail was my *second* 5.8 gear lead, after Traitor Horn (my partner and I did the first two pitches of Jensen's to TH the day before, then CN to TH that day). It definitely felt stout to me at the time, but the pro is so, SO good that I still think it's a solid, if challenging example of what sustained 5.8 feels like, and therefore a good lead for the emerging, ambitious 5.8 leader. I'm looking forward to going back and doing it again, and expect that it'll feel much more casual, now that we've climbed some of the hill's classic 5.9s.

I *definitely* second (third? fourth?) the notion that Coffin to Traitor makes for a truly incredible 5.8 when linked.

Led this years ago and I can confirm that this is pretty stout for the grade. A great route to be sure, just be aware that the climbing is somewhat sustained. I can still remember all these years later how much fun the little roof section was. Have fun.

Great climb w/link to TH. Belay high after the five-nuthin P1 and you can reach the alcove after the false horn with a 60m rope. We did, and drag was not bad w/thoughtful rope management.

W/good crack tech the lower "strenuous" crack section of P2 was a cruise, I thought. The "5.3" section (Vogel Guide) below the lieback was not bad, but stiffer than advertized IMO.

Knowing what I know now--how good the hands and pro are--I'd rest up at the amazing stance at the start of the lieback, then fire up it only placing one piece until the roof, then plug a small cam there and make the move up.

A very good climb, but it just gets greasier at the first moves above the chimney every time I do it. The crux for me is the jamming before getting to the coffin section. The face is super slick and the corner makes it awkward to properly jam (I'm sure back in the day it was a solid 5.7), so I'd upgrade this first section to a 5.8+. Everything beyond that is fun 5.7. The pull over the roof at the top of the coffin is way easier than implied. Good protection, and a solid finger or hand jam above will help you easily pull that move. Link this route up with Traitor Horn for even more fun!

We started to climb this route on Oct 3rd 2015 and were attacked by bees (wasps?) at the first tree belay. We bailed off as quick as we could but my partner and I still received about 20-30 stings each. It sucked. Be careful.

Great climb. Be careful of a very loose, long, thin block on the left about 10 ft before you exit the chimney. An unaware person would easily pull as it would be a great jug or step. No wasps when we did it 6/2016.