Bona Fides: Most recently creative director of Cacharel; stints at Céline and Lanvin; graduate of Belgium's prestigious National School of Visual Arts, La Cambre.

Backstory: After a successful two-year run as Cacharel creative director (during which he revived the sleepy French brand with playful designs that attracted orders from Opening Ceremony and Barneys New York) ended abruptly last year, Charlier debuted his second act at Paris fashion week in February: an eponymous line, which made its debut at, of all places, a high school gymnasium. "I decided to have the show there because I wanted to focus on the clothes," Charlier says.

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Look For: High-gloss, minimalist, monochromatic pencil skirts and pantsuits; military-inspired peacoats; clean sheathdresses; and the occasional—unexpected—multicolored brushstroke print. "I try to satisfy a lot of different but essential needs of my customers with a collection," says Charlier, who was inspired by a '70s photograph of French style icon Charlotte Rampling taken by Helmut Newton. "Therefore, I would never do a collection that is one-note. Neutrals are wonderful but a woman also needs pops of color in her wardrobe."

Getting Started: "When I was very young, without even being able to explain it, I understood that I would be in fashion," Charlier says. After learning embroidery as a young child from his patternmaker grandmother, he officially began his career in fashion working for a men's tailor at age 17.

Brussels Sprout: Though design may be in his blood, Charlier also notes that his native Belgium might also have been an influence on his future profession. "Maybe something is in the water," he says.

Hero Worship: He cites Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Bal­enciaga (whom he describes as "the master of cutting") as two of his favorite designers. As for the inventor of the le smoking, he says, "YSL saw women differently and gave them a new wardrobe which empowered them—genius!" As for whether he will be able to attain his idols' level of success with his current collection, Charlier is still humble. "This brand is just starting its life," he says. "I do not know what the future holds."