tazz wrote:I have always wanted to do this route. It is the "5.10 boulder move" in Mvs's page that sketches me. Can you get around it? Mvs? dan? anyone? I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.

Although MVS and I took different routes on our ascents, I think we joined the same route at some point because his description of the 5.10 boulder move and the pitches following sound very much like the terrain we climbed to exit the 4th class ledge and gain the ridge crest. From the route we took, it looked like the only viable option. It was kind of sketchy because the belay anchors were two small pieces placed far apart and there were a few unprotected, insecure moves before able to reach high to place a cam in a horizontal crack. After that a crack (I remember a diehedral at some point) offers good protection and more secure climbing. That said, there is route latitude on the buttress and one can gain the ridge crest before the start of the 4th class ledge, although it might not be any easier to continue along the buttress crest.

After carefully looking at MVS's photo of his line of ascent, I believe we followed a very similar line, although we started down hill a little ways from his start. I superimposed my line of ascent in pink on MVS's photo here. The rest of the route looks to be the same.

ExcitableBoy wrote:...From the route we took, it looked like the only viable option. It was kind of sketchy because the belay anchors were two small pieces placed far apart and there were a few unprotected, insecure moves before able to reach high to place a cam in a horizontal crack. After that a crack (I remember a diehedral at some point) offers good protection and more secure climbing....

Yes! You nailed it! That is exactly where we were. After a slabby pitch without much pro, we found a sketchy belay. Then insecure moves, and then after that a (very nice) hand crack/dihedral. I'm actually really psyched that you were in the same place because no one else I know of who did the route ever seemed to be there. They were always like, "naw, I found the Beckey chimney earlier on the ridge" or something like that.

I'm grinning ear to ear because in my mind this was (perhaps unjustifiably, but still) a really private place for years.

Very cool! Basically what we did was simu climb the fourth class ledge until forced to climb a delicate slab up and slighty right, finishing with a mantle onto a ledge. We belayed from here and the next moves were the crux which were kind of stemming the start of the open book then a big reach to a hortizontal crack then easier climbing. The moves felt harder than 5.8 but at the time I attributed it to being fatigued from the hard run the day before and keeping up with Aaron Zabriske. I would concur with your rating of 5.10b.

I was afraid to write that 5.10b thing, but I did feel like the first move off the belay was that hard. Once you "stand up" (I think with your feet at about eye level with the belayer) it's fine, but until then (shudder).

You know, I'd have to say that this 2-pitch region we are focused on was similar to the feeling on the off-width part of the Gendarme on the N Ridge of Stuart: short, but committing thus guaranteeing the memory of a lifetime. But I didn't enjoy the whole route as much as the others you mentioned (haven't done Direct Exum). The beginning was loose and crappy, the middle was a relief ("whew, we know where we are"), the crux was golden/scary, but I felt like the end of the route was deflected. I wanted to end by going straight up the ridge, and it seemed possible to do so (but ~5.10-5.11?). But fear of the unknown plus some clouds got us to trend right for the exit. I felt mildly disappointed about that.

This picture would be a lot better if the climber continued on the crest to the top. But only a short way above the route veers to the right. I'd venture that your feelings about the route would have to be confirmed by all and sundry if a direct finish is found!!

I loved climbing the NE buttress of Colchuck. However, I took the Kearney variation which starts with a stellar pitch (clean, exposed, awesome). The whole route was amaingly clean with the exception of 1 pitch (its possible I got off route). Anyway, that route doesn't get the attention it deserves.