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Do you have a IR temperature gun? If so heat a mug of water to boiling and put some "regular" PLA into it and verbatim PLA. Please them both in for 10 seconds, remove and bend. They should be soft. Let the water cool 10C at a time - try to find the magic spot (the glass temperature) where they stay solid. For regular PLA it's around 52C. If verbatim PLA is a "high temp" PLA this temp may be for example 70C.

For regular PLA you want the bed at 60C - 8C hotter than this glass temp. Set the bed temp for verbatim 8C higher than it's glass temp.

However I suspect you just have the leveling off a bit - you can just turn the 3 screws an equal amount to get the nozzle closer to the bed a bit - maybe 1/4 turn each. Here's how to get parts to stick like hell (pasted from my notes):

lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass

1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics.

2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed.

3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).

4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim.

5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome.

6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.

If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

One tip for keeping your bed level is to be PATIENT. Don't wrench parts off the build plate or use a "chisel". Just wait. Aim a desk fan at it. Go do something else. When it is ready to come off, it will pop off with the slightest touch.

Edited December 15, 2015 by Guest

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The leveling procedure only gets you *close*. You should adjust leveling more accurately on every print. If the lines aren't touching you need to move the bed closer to the nozzle. Turn all 3 knobs while it's printing the same amount - usually 1/4 turn at a time.

The leveling procedure gets you within about .1mm or .2mm of the right height. The first layer is .3mm thick so this is a pretty big error. If you are .1mm too high you are putting .3mm thick trace in an area .4mm tall and so you get gaps. Also your parts won't stick as well.

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I didn't use the black Verbatim PLA for some time now (stored cool/dry and with silica gel packages), adjusted the bed "perfectly" to get rid of the elephant foot problem on my prints. Printed Ultimaker and RS-Components PLA without any problems. Changed to the Verbatim (with cleaning in between) and it was almost impossible to get it to stick, also tried to apply gluestick, fan off for the first layer,.....

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I didn't use the black Verbatim PLA for some time now (stored cool/dry and with silica gel packages), adjusted the bed "perfectly" to get rid of the elephant foot problem on my prints. Printed Ultimaker and RS-Components PLA without any problems. Changed to the Verbatim (with cleaning in between) and it was almost impossible to get it to stick, also tried to apply gluestick, fan off for the first layer,.....