The lights come back on in downtown Detroit

OK, the town isn't one solid mass of fun and frolic. This is still a place wed to the American auto industry, and you know what that means right now.

But you get a sense, if you spend any serious time in Detroit, that despite everything there's a residual love for this city, even among those who long ago fled to greener lawns and better schools.

"There's just so much history here," said Rob Stone, a shuttle driver and third-generation Motowner.

And so much misimpression.

"Oh, yeah, I know our image," said Reggie Love, who manages Lola's, a downtown restaurant that serves quality jazz on the side. "And it's funny, because I've lived here all my life -- I'll be 38 on my next birthday -- and I've never been shot, I've never been stabbed, never been arrested, never been hospitalized . . .

"My wife and I, we've never had to deal with anything like that. So when I hear about [what a nasty place this is], I'm like, 'That must be another Detroit they're talking about.' "

Lola's has been here less than three years. Same for the Rhino, a couple of doors down, with food and live R&B. Greektown, nearby, is alive and opaa-ing. Baseball fans who used to come to games at old Tiger Stadium (still standing a mile or so west) and scram home to Bloomfield Hills now come to sparkling Comerica Park (first season, 2000), enjoy the game, then stay around in their Ordonez jerseys to grab a bite or a drink or take in some music alongside the autoworkers who never left, youthful revelers drawn to city excitement -- and out-of-towners amazed and delighted at what they see here.

"Ten, 12 years ago, downtown pretty much closed at 5 o'clock," Love said. "It's just a better city to visit now."

Don't forget the Motor City . . .

Iconic restaurants

Roma Cafe, 3401 Riopelle; 313-831-5940; www.romacafe .com. This Eastern Market Italian has been here forever. So have some of the waiters. The Whitney, 4221 Woodward Ave.; 313-832-5700; www.thewhitney .com. The restaurant is only 21 years old, but the mansion is early 1890s (remember Chez Paul?), and the combination is glorious.

Great eats

The Rattlesnake Club, 300 River Place Dr.; 313-567-4400; www.rattlesnakeclub.com. Expensive (most entrees in the mid-$30s, including a $34 lake perch tower), but what a pretty room -- or sit outside for a glimpse of the Detroit River. Atlas Global Bistro, 3111 Woodward Ave.; 313-831-2241; www.at lasglobalbistro.com. Global flavors, comfortable prices in a classy, loft-like setting. Greektown. Basically a block (Monroe Street, an easy walk from Comerica Park) full of restaurants, mostly Greek. Locals have their faves: I like Cyprus Taverna, while people I trust lean toward Papagus and New Hellas Cafe. Or go Cajun-southern at Fishbone's.

Fun bars

At least while glorious old Tiger Stadium still stands, Nemo's Bar and Grill, nearby at 1386 Michigan Ave. (313-965-3180; www.nemosdetroit.com), is still a hoot, especially on Tigers and Red Wings game days/nights (shuttles provided). Within a Gates Brown fungo of Comerica Park are Cheli's Chili Bar, 47 E. Adams St. (313-961-1700; www.chelischilibar. com), and corporate-feeling (think Hard Rock) Hockeytown Cafe, 2301 Woodward Ave. (313-965-9500; www.hockeytown cafe.com). Detroit sounds great with R&B and jazz at these three places (which also serve good food): Flood's Bar and Grill, 731 St. Antoine St. (313-963-1090); Lola's, 1427 Randolph St. (313-962-0483); and The Rhino@Harmonie Park, a couple of doors away at 1407 Randolph St. (313-965-9137). It's a dance-club feel without the dancing mob at compact Pulse, 156 Monroe St., 313-420-0313; www.pulsedetroit.com. Actual dance clubs? Plenty. Ask around -- or just troll.

Two elegant bars

Impossible (here, anyway) to improve on the view of Detroit and Windsor from the 72nd-floor Coach Insignia bar that floats above the tony restaurant (100 Renaissance Center; 313-567-2622; www.mattprenticerg .com). If heights make you nervous, dress up, stay down and try the bar at Andiamo Riverfront (400 Renaissance Center; 313-567-6700; www.andiamoitalia .com). Just right.

Especially hot districts

Greektown restaurants share attention with Greektown bars of various persuasions (nothing Hellenic about the Old Shillelagh), making it lively well past midnight. Baseball eventually yields to other pastimes scattered around Woodward Avenue/Foxtown (the Bleu, Proof just down the street, other clubs that clearly are not sports bars). The Majestic Theatre/Magic Stick/Garden Bowl block farther up Woodward is a magnet for rock fans. And there are patches here and there . . .