I finally figured out a neat clean way to make a kit available to convert your wiper door from vacuum to electric. The best part is the kit uses the same technology as my Killer Light vacuum to electric headlight conversion.

First remove the vacuum actuator and bracket. Next, locate the Killer Wiper door bracket on the firewall and mark the two mounting holes. Drill and tap these holes (this will go into the wiper door support on the other side of the firewall.

Next, you will cut the stock firebird arm down and spot weld the new 5/16x18 stud on the end.

Mount the actuator on the bracket and adjust the arm as needed by rotating the stock C3 wiper door adjustment sleeve.

Find a good spot for the module. I suggest in the back of the passenger fender well. You will run a battery and ground to the module. You will tap off the power wire that goes down into the wiper motor to get the up signal. You will ground the down signal on the module.

Plug it all on and watch it work!

When you turn the wiper on the wiper sends power to the lower part of the wiper motor. However, it won't run until the limit switch on the firewall makes a ground contact. The signal going to the wiper motor excites the module and causes the wiper door to lift. Once lifted the wiper motor will start running. When the wipers are turned off the power doesn't drop off the lower part of the motor until it goes to full park. Once that power signal drops off the module it will close.

How simple is that? Pretty cool...huh?

Week after next I will start packaging and offering the bracket and hardware shipped for $50. You will need to supply the actuator, module, wire connectors, and bulk wiring.

When you turn the wiper on the wiper sends power to the lower part of the wiper motor. However, it won't run until the limit switch on the firewall makes a ground contact. The signal going to the wiper motor excites the module and causes the wiper door to lift. Once lifted the wiper motor will start running. When the wipers are turned off the power doesn't drop off the lower part of the motor until it goes to full park. Once that power signal drops off the module it will close.

How simple is that? Pretty cool...huh?

wait, so you mean it completely elimnates the pain in the ass issue of having the door close on the wipers before they're fully down? Man, I kind of like the vaccuum system, but at such a reasonable price it might be worth it to keep the door off my wipers

Optimists think the glass is half full.
Pessimists think the glass is half empty.
Engineers realize it's twice as big as it needs to be.

wait, so you mean it completely elimnates the pain in the ass issue of having the door close on the wipers before they're fully down? Man, I kind of like the vaccuum system, but at such a reasonable price it might be worth it to keep the door off my wipers

Yes...just don't forget you would still need to buy the actuator, module, and wire pig tails. You might score a sweet deal on some used ones, or go for the big time and get new OEM parts. GMpartsdirect.com sells the actuator for $160 and module for $116. The wire pig tails are about $20 each and a new pig tail to connect to the actuator is $14. Or, you can get a universal GM module connector repair pack from you local auto parts store for about $20 total and hardwire it all together.

I have tackled and defeated this animal on several cars for other people and find that in order to really do it right - in other words not only get the door functional, but to get the new actuator sleek...small, and concealed enough to make it worth the effort...that it isn't something worth marketing.

A 2" linear actuator motor will do the trick with some simple wiring - but the bracketry get's tricky because GM didn't leave much room to play inside the cowl where the thing actually bolts in place.

I realize it has been a while since this was posted, but I have been trying to get this door situation fixed, but for some reason, I cannot find the vacuun leak or problem causing my door not to open.
If I were to go to a parts yard, could you tell me how much wire I will need and how to connect the wires to the different parts. Do you still have the killer parts?
Do you have any close up ictures of the spot welded bolt and where the module attaches?

alright, so spill the beans! What did you use for the actuator? Did you just fabricate your own brackets? Any special wiring to include a switch to ensure the door won't close unless the wipers are parked?

Looks like a slick setup

Optimists think the glass is half full.
Pessimists think the glass is half empty.
Engineers realize it's twice as big as it needs to be.

I gutted the complex mechanism in the well and only left the single lever that lifts the door. Bought a 2" mini actuator from these guys, $60:http://www.firgelliauto.com/default....0bde4aeeaf49c7
I made a couple L shaped brackets to attach to the firewall and clearanced the original hole for the actuator to fit.
The actuator has internal limit switches, but I wanted to use the original wiper door that would allow it to be adjusted.
I replaced the original microswitch with a dpdt that almost matched the original $10.
That switch functioned like the original to turn on the wiper once the door opened. It also functioned as the limit turn off (with a diode) for the actuator.
2 Relays ($10) wired to the original dash wiper switch are used to reverse the polarity to the actuator. So when you turn on the wiper switch the door goes up, stops where it should, wipers start. Wiper switch off....wipers go down, door closes.
It would have been possible to set it up so the door would not close until the wipers parked, but I took a simpler approach. I bought the slow speed actuator and adjusted the door so that there's no way the door can close before the wipers park.

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