I thought Freycinet in Tassie was a great place for easy trad as well - Lassies Wall & Whitewater Wall had super fun easier routes. Obviously the Grampians has excellent easy trad routes - including multipitch adventures. Summerday Valley and Grey & Green Walls are the pick, but there are many others.

>Really, still no climbing? Didn't you have your's done before mine? I've>been doing easy climbs since October and mine's going great. If I hadn't>been stupidly ill for the last 6 weeks, i'd be climbing moderately hard>again, but even so, no dramas with 15s. But I do live in one of the best>places in the world for gentle climbing rehab.

Yeah, was done in May. Doctor predicted I'd be climbing early Feb, but looks like maybe a bit more than that. I'm only going a little insane... Are you totally pain free now?

Theres quite a bit of easy trad out there if you look. Learning to climb was all about learning to lead trad for me so I cant answer your question, but was fortunate to inherit some gear from self professed sports climber who wasnt interested in his rack any more which helped me get started. Though I had means to buy a rack I didnt have much of an idea (hence my assortment of HB quadcams that you love Neilo:)

Piddo, Narrowneck, Mt York, Zig zag, Cosmic spring to mind. I also recall visiting Barrenjoy and Jolls bridge in my first year of climbing and doing trad. Point Perp has great easy trad. Despite its reputation Monkey Face in the Watagans is also good for easy trad. Port Stephens also has heaps of easy trad, though usually not in a guide, and not that long. Its there if you want it in NSW - definitely not the organ pipes, Araps or Frog though.

On 27/01/2013 ratherbeclimbinv9 wrote:>It's all to do with the work (mental and physical) involved, let's be honest.> And so what?>>Trad climbing is like a home cooked Christmas lunch. Sport climbing is>like eating McDonalds. Bouldering's like having a chip sandwich.>>Trying to equate one or the other with being a better person is a pretty>big stretch in my view Macciza ;)

I have an acquaintance who's been climbing a few months now and loves it. He only climbs in a gym and has so far resisted all my wiles in trying to get him outside. His first excuse was he wanted to get his lead pass (indoors) and then be good enough to climb the classics outdoors...

On 27/01/2013 tor.lattimore wrote:>>Really, still no climbing? Didn't you have your's done before mine? I've>>been doing easy climbs since October and mine's going great. If I hadn't>>been stupidly ill for the last 6 weeks, i'd be climbing moderately hard>>again, but even so, no dramas with 15s. But I do live in one of the best>>places in the world for gentle climbing rehab.>>Yeah, was done in May. Doctor predicted I'd be climbing early Feb, but>looks like maybe a bit more than that. I'm only going a little insane...>Are you totally pain free now?

Yep. I still have a tiny lack of range left, and it does hurt a bit to stretch it still, but it doesn't bother me on daily stuff or climbing. I was going completely insane and being able to climb even though it was piss easy stuff mad a massive difference. Your's still hurts? That's crap. My physio's instructions are to keep stretching, go climbing and work up to full push ups. Now I'm going insane from being sick, but that looks like it's going to be over soon too, still it's put even those very simple remaining rehab instructions behind schedule. Heading to Tassie next week only climbing 15s. I'll be hunting out all the easy trad around for the first week or so.>>I haven't been to Mt Boyce, looks pretty good.

I tried to stir up controversy whilst sick and bored the other week with a post about this stuff .... I reckon it's because people learn in more and more sanitary conditions and their standards, expectations, beliefs etc etc reflect that.

>As you said I think convenience and limited time is the main reason I sport>climb when at home.

That's funny Neil, when I asked you about this a while back your response was "None of the wusses I climb with (apart from Mikl) are the least bit interested in placing gear. I try to sell them a trad day every now and then, but it's like offering garlic to a bunch of vampires" :)

I think in the Blueys, they come out of gyms already climbing 22+ and there's not a lot of 'gym style" (non-crack) climbs at that grade that are trad. (and i don't think that something with 6 carrots and 2 cams is a trad climb)

In Victoria there is lot of good climbing that isn't cracks AND you can protect it.

That said, I wouldn't know:- I can't climb trad without dropping 6 grades and perhaps more kilos.

Climbing sport tends to overinflate your ego so returning to trad after years of sport generally means you need to significantly drop your grades or do the odd crack climb, which tends to crap on your ego a little and bring you back down to earth. At least thats been my experience.