You will not push anything into the engine. Run the engine and let it warm up good and see what the pressure does. It should drop some after the oil heats up. If it doesn't, look at replacing the gauge.

My gauge does drop down after i shut it off,what worries me is that i dont remember it being that high when i bought the tractor. I since changed the filter and oil (30w) and its still high should i be concerned?

This time of year at zip code 18058 I would be using 10W30 than switch to 30W in the summer ( heavy duty use) or stay with 10W30 year around. After the engine is running at normal operating temperature and the oil pressure gauge reading is more than 3/4 range at half throttle check what everyone is telling you.

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Thanks. Two things to add to the discussion from my own investigation. One, I could not get a wrench on the plug for the pressure regulator easily. I will end up having to remove one of the bolts that hold the engine to bolster to get to the plug. The engine/bolster bolt was on real tight on my tractor and I did not want to break it without having a spare on hand. Two, there does not seem to be a good place to measure oil pressure other than at the gauge. There is a plug near the bell housing, but it is underneath the hydraulic lines. My plan is to take off the IH gauge, measure the pressure with a mechanics gauge, and go from there. My tractor is not close to me, so it will have to wait.

OK I'm back i made the wooden dowel which worked great....great tip!! the oil pressure came down a bit, reading about 3/4 full in the white range i will go to the oil you are suggesting and I believe my gauge is working properly when I shut the motor down the gauge drops as well. I guess more is better than less in this instance!!! Thanks for everyone input will post pics hopefully in the future...

When the passages get sludged up, it can give the appearance of high oil pressure too. Changing the oil and pushing the sludge out the bottom of the oil filter can does wonders to correct that issue. Remember, the regulator is at the FAR end of the block, so when it holds 35 psi at that end, the gage end of the block could be 20-30 psi higher, but the flow can be next to nothing.

For this cold weather, you should really consider 15W40 or even 10W30. You'll still have 3/4 gage oil pressure in the summer with them as well.

ntrenn wrote:When the passages get sludged up, it can give the appearance of high oil pressure too.

Oil pressure gauge is installed and readings taken on the oil filter housing. A plugged or sludged up gallery will not increase or decrease the reading taken at the oil filter housing.

Remember, the regulator is at the FAR end of the block, so when it holds 35 psi at that end, the gauge end of the block could be 20-30 psi higher, but the flow can be next to nothing.

The oil pressure regulator valve is simply a pop off valve, limiting the highest pressure in the entire lubrication system to it's set value. Oil pressure in the entire or at any point in the lubrication system may vary slightly from the reading on an accurate gauge. Basically, if an accurate gauge reads 20 psi, then the oil pressure in the entire lubrication system is right at 20 psi.

Winfield Dave wrote:We are typically colder than 18058 zip and run 30W year round with no issues...have for decades.

Nice to know I am not the only one. Still haven't changed over to 10w30, not sure I am going to. Ellie has been running real well with good pressure. Doesn't seem to require the change and the detergents kind of worry me.

Winfield Dave wrote:We are typically colder than 18058 zip and run 30W year round with no issues...have for decades

.You will be ok with 30 weight oil if you get past the cold-start up on a cold morning.When it gets really cold the 30 weight oil gets really thick and It will not flow through the (bearings and ect.) clearances of the engine. Obviously that hasn't been a problem.....

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