Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

12-11-2006 03:34 PM

ChevyJim

FINALLY!!! Got 'er running again. Actually suprised me, fired right up, had to play with the dist. to get it to run smooth, got a friend with a timing light coming over tommorrow. Gotta tighten the power steering belt, squeelin a little bit. I definitley need a new starter, I'm sure that day when I was trying to crank it over when the #7 cylinder was full of coolant and all it wanted to do was grind. I ruined the gear. Other than that, no white smoke out the rear, everything else seems good. It warmed up normally, I made sure that the coolant was topped off and the heater was on high. I'm still getting some spots in the upper radiator hose, and its throwing cold air, I know theres a lot of air in the system. Any tricks for me to get rid of the air? Just keep letting it idle and burping it?

also, how easy should I take it on this thing for a break-in period?

12-11-2006 01:05 PM

ChevyJim

I think I found it, its on the firewall, almost behind the power brake booster.

it it "bolted" to a plastic housing, and has another separate wire bolted with it. it comes down a few inches, then into a small cylinder shaped plastic thingy, the 2 wires come out of the other side. how much of this thing should I cut out, or do I need to replace the whole thing, all the way to the alternator?

12-10-2006 09:15 PM

HalfOunce

you can get fuse link in a roll or by the ft from part stores........If you get some for 10ga wire it will look like 10ga on the outside but when you strip it back it looks more like 14ga......Just cut off the burnt one/ones and replace with same length.....butt connector on one end and ring terminal on other.....DO NOT solder fuse link wire!!!!!!!!

12-10-2006 08:28 PM

docvette

Doc here,

Fuse links are designed to protect the Electrical wire harness system from meltdown and FIRE..

If you bypass it the next time you "Short" something out..it won't be a small deal..it will be a major problem..

All the wires within the harness with that wire will melt together, and heat up and burn, possibly setting flammable surroundings on fire..such as interior parts, or oil, or grease..

Once that starts, you CAN"T Put the ignition source out..at least until the battery cable is cut or the battery explodes..you can pour all the water, or chemical on it you want, the minute you stop..it flares right back up..The resultant is a burned out hulk..that used to be your Rod.

Always use fuse links..AND if yours didn't have one..INSTALL one...

Auto Zombie has Fuse Links for like $5 .. a cheap insurance policy!

Fuse Link bypassed for a 2000 Watt
Amp.."I Don"t need 'em.." FD waiting
For Battery to Blow so they can put
it out...(Note Crime tape..)

Doc

12-10-2006 07:00 PM

Bryan59EC

Not recommended Jim.

That link is there to keep from burning up the entire harness.

All decent and most not so decent parts stores will have them.
But you will probably have to go to the electrical section and find 'em
yourself.

Keep in mind----you dead shorted a hot wire----only damage---$3.00 link.
as opposed to a toasted harness.

Had an ol Chrysler that the Alt shorted on my way home----melted everything in that harness to the firewall-----then attacked the dash harness.

Had to replace all the wiring in that car.

Had a 88 Bonneville that had an Alt Spike----took out all lamps, ignition, stereo fuse, and links. NO BURNED WIRES ANYWHERE

12-10-2006 06:45 PM

ChevyJim

what would it hurt if I just eliminated it altogether. I called the parts store, and they told me "we don't have any listings for fusable links" are there going to be any markings on it when I tear it out of there? Or could I just replace the entire wire with a new one without the link in it?

12-10-2006 03:53 PM

docvette

Doc here,

You'll have to ask for your car specific, But I'd guess between 70 and 90 amps.

Doc

12-10-2006 03:46 PM

ChevyJim

can anybody tell me what its rating is, or will the parts store be able to tell me?

lol, around here, the parts store personel are something else

12-10-2006 03:40 PM

BRUCE#14

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChevyJim

fusable link? where am I gonna find that at? any ideas or do you mean in the fuse box?

it is in with the wire coming from the starter

12-10-2006 03:36 PM

docvette

Doc here,

Depends on the car..

Pre 70's did not have them Factory Installed, but many were upgraded..

The usual places are at the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid at the 10 gauge wire, Or at the horn relay, or at a single terminal binding post close to the battery, Or even sometimes at the battery itself.

Doc

12-10-2006 03:28 PM

ChevyJim

fusable link? where am I gonna find that at? any ideas or do you mean in the fuse box?

Anyways, its all done, changed oil, refilled antifreeze. Went to fire it up, got nothing, no gauges. I DO have headlights. I threw the jumper cables on it, and could still get nothing on gauges or anywhere inside, only headlights.

Well, I didn't think anything of it at the time, but during the "process" at one point the red lead from the back of the alternator shorted out as it was just hanging there. Do you guys think I cooked something in there somewhere? where would a likely place to start be? I tried to check all the connections at the distributer, they are all plugged in, battery cables are hooked up and tight, and I'm about 99.9 percent sure that its all hooked up, and tight.

thanks fellas

12-10-2006 12:52 PM

ChevyJim

one more quick question, fellas. I got the whole thing back together, double checked everything, it all looks good to go. So, I refilled the radiator, and then I drained the oil for a fresh change. And, low and behold, I got the standard half gallon or so of antifreeze that drained out before the oil did. My question is that I was wondering if, after I change the oil and get 'er running again, should I change the oil and filter again soon, like within 40 or 50 miles? Would there still possibly be some leftover antifreeze in there hiding? Or should it be fine without the extra oil and filter change? thanks again

also, doc vette said earlier that I should re-torque the head bolts after a "break in" The fel-pro gasket set I used said that there was no re-torque necessary. I figure it wouldn't hurt to re-torque them anyways to be sure. what kind of breakin time should I give it before re-torquing?

12-09-2006 03:26 PM

ChevyJim

thanks, fellas. Well, so far so good, today I got it most of the way back together, got the valve covers cleaned and re-installed, carb back on, headers on, and new spark plugs in. this morning I used the screwdriver in the dist. hole, small turn, fell right in on first try.
also got the water pump re-installed. then I ran out of daylight.
Tommorrow I'm hoping to get it finished and fired up. I'll post a final update to let you guys know if I got it.
thanks again

This thread has more than 15 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.