Oh dear. Despite the proximity to Golden Square, this is far from a golden Pizza Express. In fact, it was by far the worst I’ve visited so far.

What to say? Slow, slow service – despite the number of staff frequently being greater than the number of customers. Dirt on the cutlery. Bits of food on the menu. Smears on the walls. Badly obstructed corridor to the toilets. Entrance to the toilets blocked by a high chair. Peeling paint on the walls in the toilets.

Yet it’s been done over in the now not-so-new style for Pizza Express restaurants (complete with, gasp, standard toilet signage).

My advice? Grab some take away food from the Greggs next door and head down to Golden Square where you can enjoy the historic architecture and the famous statue (the story goes someone won it at an auction by waving to a friend at the wrong moment and then donated it to the square).