If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will be required to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Comment

Update. I went ahead and rented a drum auger for $30 then went in at the top of the T that was no hubbed to the vent. I sent that sucker 25' down the line all the way to the main 4" line then spun it as I pulled it back and forth about a foot then recoiled a foot and did the same thing again all the way back to my starting point. Took me about a half hour. I live in S.F. bay area so I dont think a plumber would have only charged $100 especially on a saturday and we really needed to do laundry. So far so good. After the fix I put a garden hose in the line and ran it full blast for about 5-10 minutes and got no back up. Ran a few loads of laundry too and got no backup so I think I got it fixed (knock on wood) if it happens again I will take out the galv and replace with 2" ABS. Thanks all I appreciate advices.

Perfect solution for you. Buy a k60 from north state for around 1400. Then watch the training video about using a k60 on the video demonstrations. I'll even help you out more-use the 5/8 cable and bend the end of a cable about 35 degrees-not 30, not 40, must be 35 degrees. Then use a 4 bladed cutter T-214. Your entry point will be either your vent or you washer standpipe.

Your vent's are most likely fine. You just need to snake your lines out. This isn't rocket science. If this was me, this is what I would do. Hire a plumber to do this and watch what he does. Next time this happens you'll properly know how to fix the problem and most importantly-safely fix the problem.

Remember-35 degrees-I cannot stress this enough.

As Ben posted earlier a 5/8" sectional cable will clean though an 1 1/2" trap without a problem.

the english mastiff is a 180# guard dog that is guarding the k-60 from theft. as this little 35# machine will do what takes a 210# drum machine to do.

shan, it's very common out here to have a laundry and kitchen share the same 2'' line.

of course cleaning from an outside cleanout is easier and cleaner than an indoor standpipe. it still can be done. laundry has a build up of soap and lint. kitchen have grease and muck. gal pipe also rust from the inside restricting the line like cholesterol in the arteries.

snaking from the standpipe can be tricky with a drum machine as the cable is stiffer and the drum doesn't stop turning the cable once you stop off the foot pedal.

a 1/4'' hand held snake will only punch a hole in the immediate obstruction and never actually clean the pipe.

the 5/8'' sectional as ben and mark mentioned is the best cable for the job. it can be used with either the k-50 or k-60 machine. getting through the trap is actually pretty easy on this cable and machine. choosing the proper cutter will depend on your situation. the 4 blade cutter will be the most aggressive for cutting, the straight auger will be easier to negotiate and so will the bulb auger.

figure the first 4-5' is all it takes to get past the trap and into the riser. at this point your past the standpipe and trap. if you want to, you can go onto the roof and have a straight shot if the vent is not offset. running water while snaking will help flush the line clean.
continue to the 3'' or 4'' common main and while you have the snake available, do the remainder of the kitchen sink line.

unfortunately, the gal line is never going to be as clean as it was when new. if the cable did a good job, great. abs plastic is a long term solution. if your able to eventually change out the gal to abs, you'll be fixed for the long run. plastic doesn't build up a layer of hard un-snakeable debris.

glad you got it and join in on the forum. we can use carpenters on the forum.