Road Trips

Our escape to Bend, Oregon for a couple of days “away from it all” found us on a (rather long) day trip to John Day Fossil Beds National Monument in the high desert region northeast of the city. Although the drive was beautiful, it seemed endless as we wound our way along the two-lane highway. I was beginning to fear my brilliant suggestion was a terrible mistake when Reg finally pulled in and parked the truck at the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center.

Across the road, 3,360 foot Sheep Rock (above) provided a glimpse of the fascinating landscapes yet to come.

At the suggestion of the park ranger, we walked the 1.3 mile Island in Time Trail (pictured above) which took us along the floor of the Blue Basin Canyon.

Our next stop was the Painted Hills, a region so colorful and unique, we could hardly believe our eyes. A gravel road led to several parking areas where short walks allowed us closer views of the topography.

All in all, it was a good day at John Day. If you go, be sure to fill up your gas tank, pack a few snacks and get an early start. You’ll be glad you did!

Just a short detour from U.S. Highway 101 in Coos Bay lies a beautiful stretch of the Oregon Coast where three state parks await your discovery. The parks are easily reached by car, but the best way to see the sights is by foot along the cliff top path, an 8.5 mile walk out and back.

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Cape Arago State Park, located at the south end of the loop, provides picnic tables, views and hiking trails down to tide pools. A highlight is the viewpoint overlooking a noisy colony of seals and sea lions. We were lucky enough to see the occasional spout from a whale swimming about. Be sure to bring your binoculars!

Simpson Beach, a secluded cove with a sandy shore, is breathtakingly beautiful and a perfect spot to wiggle your toes in the sand or dip them in the surf.

Directly above the cove is Shore Acres State Park. Originally home to timber baron Louis Simpson and his family, the estate home is long gone. The remaining Gardener’s Cottage is surrounded by 5 acres of formal gardens, open to the public and well worth a stroll. Be sure to stop and smell the roses!

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Because we were lucky enough to have secured a campsite, our walk ended where it began…with our return to Sunset Bay State Park. Make your reservations here early…this is a popular spot to escape the summer heat and, of course, to watch the sunset.

Sunshine speckled the trail to Hunters Cove as we set out from the Cape Sebastian State Park Viewpoint. Our guidebook warned of strong winds that have kept the Sitka spruce that grow on the point at shoulder height, but this morning all was calm. As we hiked around a bend, the view north opened up to reveal an impressive sea of fog hugging the coast below us. Our downhill path would, no doubt, lead into the thick of it.As the fog lifted, we were able to see the steep cliffs and the surf below. The trail continued downhill through the forest and would eventually lead to Hunters Cove and a view of a collection of rocky island outcroppings. We didn’t make it quite that far since we had left our lunch in the car, but we walked long enough that the return trip offered clear views of the coastline we had missed earlier.Once back at the car, we drove a few miles down the highway and found our own spot (with a pretty good view) for our picnic.

The Coquille River Lighthouse was first lit in 1896 and continued to guide ships to safety off the coast of Bandon, Oregon until it was decommissioned in 1939.Bullard Beach State Park provides the starting point for a brisk 5+ mile round trip walk to the lighthouse. You’ll find plenty of opportunity for beach access along the way. Several parking lots are available those less adventurous.These days the lighthouse opens to provide a glimpse into the past…a brief history lesson for visitors, campers and history buffs. It also serves as inspiration (for photographers) from either shore of the Coquille River.

After pocketing my winnings from the casino we continued north on Highway 101 to the Coos Bay waterfront. A pair tall ships were dockside, drawing eager crowds who held tickets, ready to set sail for adventure. Everyone and everything was enjoying the sun, including this seagull perched atop a cluster of old wharf posts.We took a chance on a little seafood shack located down on the docks, figuring their fish and chips were worth a try. We were not disappointed! Not only was it “the best fish and chips on the Oregon Coast,” (according to the owner…and he was right!) but my casino winnings covered the cost! Who says there’s no such thing as a free lunch!?

Reg pulled in to check out the The Mill Casino RV Park in Coos Bay, and since we were there, I couldn’t resist trying my luck. I waved goodbye to my five dollar bill as I fed it into a giant slot machine…then pushed the button. Much to my surprise, I walked away with a $20.00 profit. I was thrilled! Maybe we’ll go back and see Elvis this weekend!

The camp host encouraged us to make the short walk to see the Umpqua Lighthouse not just during daylight, but also after dark. Intrigued, we bundled up last night and headed out to the coast, curious to discover what mysterious sights we might behold.Once the sun went down and dark settled over us, the signature beams (two white-one red) lit up the sky, continuously sweeping a circle overhead. As we turned and looked over the ocean we could see the light stretching out toward the horizon…visible more than 20 miles out to sea.

While the first heatwave of summer bakes the Rogue Valley back home, we awoke to day four of our cool 2 1/2 week coastal escape. A note in our hiking book suggested the “not to be missed” Umpqua Discovery Center located on “Reedsport’s scenic riverfront boardwalk.” Somewhat skeptical, but wanting to stick close to our home base at Umpqua Lighthouse State Park today, we made the short drive north.Built entirely with grants and donations, the center is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. Impressive displays, some interactive, explain the Natural and Cultural History of the Oregon Coast. Massive murals, painted by artist Peggy O’Neal, are beautifully done and anchor each of the many displays. We were told each mural took about a year to complete. Take in the views up and down the river from the boardwalk or grab a bite to eat at one of the neighboring restaurants. The Umpqua Discovery Center is located just off Highway 101 and Highway 38 in Reedsport, Oregon. Open daily with a reasonable admission charge.