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EWMGD70JSS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for EWMGD70JSS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Dryer would heat initially then cool down

The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils were easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.

Dryer would heat only on the initial start. Burner would not light again until completely cooled down. The ignitor would energize, but no gas would flow for ignition.

1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer)2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.

Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.

Drying times continued to increase over several months until finally dryer wouldn't dry any more.

I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)

Gas flame turns off after a while. No more heat.

Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.

The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.

This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.

This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.

Dryer would not ignite

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)5) Set front panel to side6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.9) Finish taking screw out by hand10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

no heat in the dryer

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

the burner wouldn't ignite

UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.

No heat/intermittent heat. Ignitor glowed but no gas flame.

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

Ice Maker Repair

The ice maker wouldn't fill with water. The maker itself appeared to operate but the tray would not fill. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com. The website allowed me to conveniently match a picture of the part with my part on the refrig. I ordered the part and it arrived in two days. I was impressed!

I turned the water to the ice maker off, unplugged the refrig. and pulled it out from the wall. I loosened and removed two screws with a nut-driver and unplug the wiring connection from the old part by simply pulling on it with my fingers. I then unscrewed the water connection from the old part using a set of pliers. The old part was then discarded. I connected the water and electrical and remounted the new part using the two screws. It was too easy!

My dryer would light but when it called for more heat it would not light.

lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.

Dryer runs but produces no heat

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.

heat would initially come on then go off or sometimes not come on at all.

1. unpluged the dryer and turned off the gas.2. pulled dryer out so i'd have ample room to work on it. 3. used large flat blade screwdriver in the front between the top lid and dryer face to gently pop-up the lid.4. removed 4 screws from inside, that hold the face to the main box leaving the wires all intact. Found the coils on the lower left, held in place by two screws and plate. 5. took a good look at thier orientation before unpluging old and installing new, I recommend one at a time.6. Vacuumm any exceess lint and check foam seal between lint trap and exhuast duc, the glue came undone on mine causing extra lint dust that is potentially flamable. 6. screw dryer front back on to main box, make sure to check wiring harness and that all electrical blade connectors are still pluged in to their componants. 7. At this point plug in, turn on gas and do a test run. 8.if everything checks out good then lower top make sure flexable exhuast hose is still connected on hte back of the dryer. 9. Tell your wife or girlfriend or husband or boy friend they can now finish your laundry :)

Dryer wasn't heating

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.