Since you have a table in & shelf out...make sure to test some transfers (with food) using testers @ different heights....to be sure you don't have to lean a very long long extended distance @ service every time.

It might come down to using one hand as well...with both table & shelf in-between where you stand and the customer stands.

Mitch here is the link BUT........ Most any site that promises big bucks for anything is usually a scam. Not saying this site is just saying if it starts like this be careful. WE WILL SHOW YOU EVERY STEP THAT YOU REQUIRE TO BUILD A HOT DOG TRUCK OF YOUR DREAMS,

WITH LESS MONEY THEN YOU EVER DREAMED POSSIBLE !

"I make a killing with my Lunch Truck"

"There Is Not A Man In America That Has Not At One Time Thought About Selling Food From A Hot Dog, Or Food Truck"

I am Living Proof Of the Money That can Be Made In The Food Truck Industry, Ask Me any Questions You May Have And I will Answer them With your Free 30 Minute Consultation when ordering Your E- Book.

Good afternoon, sorry for my English but I would like to ask if you have already purchased this manual "build a food truck." You have any opinion about this? Can it be true? or is it just another product of scammers. Thanks for your attention and everyone else for making this thread so interesting. Goodbye !

King, Your English is fine but I doubt anyone here has bought that book. I think if they had they would have posted something about it.

But if you'll take the time to study the past post here in this section and be patient enough to even possibly read some several times I think you'll learn as much as you would from most books.

Then if you don't understand something jump on here and ask. There are a lot of good and helpful people here and the only thing that riles some up is a new person that doesn't invest the time to read and do their own research. There is a search engine at the top of the page that will also help you.

Thanks for your quick reply. I always try to read as much as possible before asking, but don't understand some things due my English, it's sad because in this forum there is much useful information. Many Thanks to BTM676 and others for the photos that have been shared in this thread, have been very useful, I hope you continue to publish many more, including simple details, they help me a lot with my project.

Here is a few pictures of the propane lines and regulators. The red regulators are high pressure able to do 250,000 btu/hr each. The lines are 3/4 inch black pipe (which i have to paint to stop the rust). There is a second stage regulator which drops the pressure to around 10 lbs of pressure. Each tank has a shut valve as well as a main shut off, and each piece of equipment has a shut off. Everything works great and there is no leaks!!!!" _mce_src="http://www.roadfood.com/Forums/null" />" _mce_src="http://www.roadfood.com/Forums/null" />" _mce_src="http://www.roadfood.com/Forums/null" />" _mce_src="http://www.roadfood.com/Forums/null" /> OOOOh and my friend helped me out who works for a propane company. (got lucky there)

Yea I know. My whole system with hood and ansul is about 4000.00 . I pass inspection with just my abc and class k extenguisher but can't do events or anything without an ansul system.

Since i live in the middle of no where and no one up here even knows what a food truck is... there is no event or anything like that yet. lol so i'm good of a short while but i have room for the system when i need it. I just hope i dont need it right away. I just want to start selling stuff to pay for the cost of things like a ansul system.

BTM, sorry to bring up the past but i wanted to see if you could clarify on the strip process you did- you said it was a month or so of striping and sanding - but then you showed the most excellent process pics of stripper working then washing off- are you saying that you tried lots of other products and sanding which took forever ....and then the POR-strip worked like BUTTA? - I am about to subject myself to this on a much bigger 1991 Grumman....i could use the knowledge you have on this! thanks

BTW- BTM676- i forgot the compliments!!! your truck is looking sweet- very nice and detailed- keep it up!

Hey! thank you very much for the comments. I'm going to have alot more stuff posted soon. As for stripping and sanding the truck, POR-STRIP worked amazing! very easy to use. Brush it on cause spraying will kill your lungs/skin. lol Trust me, you'll know when you get it on you. Get really good rubber gloves. Just brush it on wait till it bubbles up and scrape it way. You will/might have to do multiple coats. You can hose or power wash it off. Power washer worked the best, as it should. It took me about 4 gallons of POR-Strip for the hole truck. O remove all running lights/ anything plastic. It will stain the plastic. As for the sanding part, The sanding took the longest. I used 220 grit paper on a 5 inch palm sander. I did have friends come over with their sanders to help out. lol I sanded the truck cause after you strip it, the truck will have run marks/stains on the aluminum. So i sanded them out to look smooth like bare metal. I also wire brushed around the rivets, that is a must! I found Sand paper worked better to get the paint off then the wire brush. The wire brushed polished the aluminum. But its your build use whatever you want! P.S. Use a mask to both the strip and sanding!!!!

Nice breakdown on the process. Do you have a plan on maintaining that? Clear coat maybe?

Thanks. Very helpful. Love the build.

Yes i want to clear coat it or something along those lines. I dont know anything about clear coat or how it will work on aluminum. I haven't really researched anything about it.

So before i had read your reply, i had found a qt of POR Strip and bought a can of aircraft stripper to do a comparison- WOW - the aircraft stripper (which EVERYONE said would win) didn't even touch the paint (I'm pretty sure its enamel) and the Por strip got 90% off in the first coat- I also did this in the morning in 40 deg conditions for the test. I ordered 4 gallons that will be here monday and will start it then- I'm not looking for a mirror finish but i definitely want it shiny I've been perusing forums on Airstreams and truck tractor trailers on coatings- i really don't want to spray a hard coat due to not having correct facilities and the temp outside wont be conducive for an outside coating.

I've been talking to some truckers about "moonshine" polishes - this is pretty interesting and they swear by it- but seems a bit crazy as it involves heating up mineral spirits and whisking in other ingredients such as lighter fluid, rouge, wax, etc- so many variations

I'm in aviation and there are promising products that last a long time on the polished leading edges at 500 +miles per hour @40,000 ft but they are kind of cost prohibitive.

This is not a thread jack and the post is too long but i wanted to give you some insight to what i'm doing- ill post my findings on the coating/protectant- eventually ill get a thread going when i can post pics (I'm new ) but I'm on a tight timeline on this build- A lot of people think I'm crazy for polishing- but in this biz you got to be different/cool looking!

Man....I am in the exact same"boat" as you. EVERYONE thinks I'm off my rocker for wanting the aluminum look but I AM going to pull it off. I know it can be done. I've been told that a clear coat will start to "yellow" in time..a couple to three years? I'll definatly share my findings with you. I am about to be very aggressive with the build. Thanks for sharing! -kevin

Nice breakdown on the process. Do you have a plan on maintaining that? Clear coat maybe?

Thanks. Very helpful. Love the build.

Yes i want to clear coat it or something along those lines. I dont know anything about clear coat or how it will work on aluminum. I haven't really researched anything about it.

So before i had read your reply, i had found a qt of POR Strip and bought a can of aircraft stripper to do a comparison- WOW - the aircraft stripper (which EVERYONE said would win) didn't even touch the paint (I'm pretty sure its enamel) and the Por strip got 90% off in the first coat- I also did this in the morning in 40 deg conditions for the test. I ordered 4 gallons that will be here monday and will start it then- I'm not looking for a mirror finish but i definitely want it shiny I've been perusing forums on Airstreams and truck tractor trailers on coatings- i really don't want to spray a hard coat due to not having correct facilities and the temp outside wont be conducive for an outside coating.

I've been talking to some truckers about "moonshine" polishes - this is pretty interesting and they swear by it- but seems a bit crazy as it involves heating up mineral spirits and whisking in other ingredients such as lighter fluid, rouge, wax, etc- so many variations

I'm in aviation and there are promising products that last a long time on the polished leading edges at 500 +miles per hour @40,000 ft but they are kind of cost prohibitive.

This is not a thread jack and the post is too long but i wanted to give you some insight to what i'm doing- ill post my findings on the coating/protectant- eventually ill get a thread going when i can post pics (I'm new ) but I'm on a tight timeline on this build- A lot of people think I'm crazy for polishing- but in this biz you got to be different/cool looking!

COOL! I'm glad it worked out for ya. That stuff is real good. As for posting thing start a thread and i'll post your pictures on it for ya until you get enough posts.

Man....I am in the exact same"boat" as you. EVERYONE thinks I'm off my rocker for wanting the aluminum look but I AM going to pull it off. I know it can be done. I've been told that a clear coat will start to "yellow" in time..a couple to three years? I'll definatly share my findings with you. I am about to be very aggressive with the build. Thanks for sharing! -kevin

That would be great. I just not to sure of clear coat thing. I just dont wanna have to strip the whole truck again if it turns yellow or any other color. lol Glad your getting aggressive these build love to take there time. hahaha Do you have a thread going?

HAHA well i cheaped out and i went old school!!! lol I just used a push out pole and a hook. I had a piece of 3/4 inch hollow square aluminum, to act like the push poll. It was left over from making my awning (i used it to make the awning frame). I made a coat hook looking thing out of 1/8 inch aluminum flat stock and 3/8 inch solid aluminum round. I welded it together and screwed it to the truck. For some reason my computer wont let me post pictures so i cant show you want i done BUT... a few pages back you can see my awning brace in the pictures that show my service shelf. Let me know if this kinda helps I'll try to get pictures for ya.

Hi guys - totally new here - been reading through several of these forums for the past few days. Learning a lot, esp. from BTM676 and reese77 - thank you for all of the valuable info! Just bought a 1991 Chevy P30 and am looking into stripping it down to the aluminum and giving it some kind of clear coat/polish. I tried doing a "search" to see if the clear coat question had been answered yet (don't want Dr of BBQ to reprimand me for posting a ? without checking through the forums and first I think it's funny and totally justified of him for doing so) I also read somewhere on one of these forums that it's not a good idea to leave the roof unpainted as the truck will get very hot and am wondering if that is the case for the entire truck. Has anyone had any luck with getting info on clear coating after stripping off the paint? I really love the look of the bare aluminum and think that BTM676's truck looks fantastic!

Gracee, I first want to say thank you for understanding and 2nd have to say with all the time I have been on this forum I have never read a post from anyone having finished a truck in all aluminum and then clear coating it. One other thought I have a friend that has owned a body shop for 35 years and when some of the above threads were posted I asked him about aluminum and then clear coating it and he laughed and said "oh you don't want to go there". I didn't press the issue with him. I assume he was talking a major $$$ investment was involved. And recently talking to a really good sign guy I know about polishing some aluminum blanks the size of a speed limit sign I asked how bright meaning how much polishing should I do? And he asked how much time did I want to waste. Then he went on to explain that once you put letters or numbers on any shiny surface the shine becomes background and most people never notice it. One last thought: I don't know of anyone that is a bigger freak about stainless steel or aluminum than me, so if you find anything good about your quest here or otherwise please post your information. And by the way welcome to the forum. jack

Hello gracee. Thanks for the compliment. As for stripping and clear coating. Member DRVP asked a few months ago and I said I didnt know much about clear coating. Well... it turns out that DRVP found some stuff out. Lol side note: he works on aircrafts for a living. He found POR-15 product makes a lot of different products from stripper to rust prevention and CLEAR COATS which is said to work on aluminum! Go to there website and click in clear coats. It is expensive! But DRVP said one gallon will do ur whole truck. He had a pint left over.this product can be rolled on and thats what he did. I'll post pictures of his truck he sent me. It looks sweet! Hope this helps.

New to this forum so I don't know if the following has been posted, so I will just post it anyways. I have built over 2 dozen food carts/trucks over the past few years so my method for making things look like a 50s toaster is well tested on various applications. I have mirror finished a 57 Silver Streak trailer, a couple canned ham trailers, and a few trucks, same process every time.

Most Home Depots carry a stripper by Jasco, multi purpose. The stuff is fairly evil (I got burn marks to prove that), and removes most anything, including the hair on your arms.

Jasco and a straight razor blade, let it sit a minute or two until it is bubbly, scrape it off. While this method has a higher chance of burnt flesh it is far less messy then power washing it off (tried it the first time, stripper soaked paint chips all over). First go over will remove 80% or more. Go over it a second time, you can use a green brillo scrub pad to loosen the tough spots. Rinse and repeat.

Once you have bare metal soak a rag or three in mineral spirits or lacquer thinner and wax on wax off. This will remove the residue.

Final and slowest and most annoying part. 3M makes a line of rubbing compounds. Heavy duty rubbing compound is the one you want. It isn't usually sold on shelves but Napa carries it at the warehouse, costs like 60 dollars for a gallon. Go to harbor freight and buy a variable speed buffer, get some wool pads while your there. Apply a gob to said wool pad, start at very low RPM and work it into a area about 4'x4', slowly increase the RPM. Compound will turn black, that means your on the right track. Keep buffing and before long you will see your ugly mug smiling back.

Tedious yea, but you can turn near anything mirror gloss this way. Aluminum works best, but I have done it to steel as well.

About to do it on my own truck, if I make it to 30 posts and 30 days I will post pictures.