Help with Tadao Yakuza board...

Hey guys, long time/no post. Anyway, I think I already have the answer to this question but before I send my Yak board in I wanted to check.

So I haven't played at all yet this year (everybody quit playing = nowhere to play paintball). Anyway, there is this game coming up where people might actually show up to play paintball (what a novel idea), so I dusted off my E-cocker to make sure it's ready to go. Well, the first thing I noticed was that my break-beam eyes weren't working. Pulled them out and discovered a broken bulb in one side. Easy enough -- I'll just order a new eye kit.

But also, my Tadao OLED display is barely bright enough to see. I've tried 3 different batteries, one of them directly out of the package, and they're all the same result. I can see the display indoors, with the dimness turned up all the way to "5," but you just can't see it outside. Has this happened to anyone? Any way to fix it, or should I just contact Tadao?

Additionally, the Yak board has never really proven to be all it's cracked up to be. Mine just seems to be insanely finicky/glitchy. I am running an MQ2 but that shouldn't matter -- I know what I'm doing as far as setup goes. A lot of times it doesn't register my trigger pulls, then shoots a burst after the fact; crap like that. I re-installed my E2 and it shoots like butter. Even the original reflective eye still works. Has anybody else been disappointed with their Yakuza?

the fact you are almost paying 200 for a cocker board and it does not have cocker mode, aka classic mode. i have also read that they will not warranty the screen, you have to purchase a new screen from them and the replacement screen also likes to die on you.

^^Indeed, classic mode was very handy indeed. Additionally, I don't really like how the board was configured in cases where you have to turn the eye off. Unless your "eyes off" max rof is turned way down (like 10bps), it seems that the bolt-open time is always too short, leading to chops. With my E2, I can turn the CON up to about 55ms and it absolutely won't chop if the eyes are off.

I don't know, I looked up the price of a new screen and it's $30. Methinks I might replace the screen and then sell the damn thing. I don't play tournaments anymore so having the easy Rof adjustments of the Yakuza are not critical. I'd honestly be happy capped at 13bps running the thing blind with my E2. I'm actually more thrilled to have a gun that shoots ultra smooth and quiet rather than one that does 20+ bps.

from the reading i read, they say they will not warrant the older oled. was yours the usb version or the non usb version?

Non-USB. If you talk to Will, he stands behind his limited lifetime warranty. He will replace the screen with the new OLED (and flash the board to support the new screen, if it is Non-USB). The warranty is only valid for the original owner.

I will say with 2 MQ2'd cockers...the non-USB Tadao board is very very nice. H is right, they don't have a classic mode - but the multiple tuning parameters have really helped make my MQ2s shoot very nicely. Both of my non-USB work better than yours sounds to. I also have a USB Tadao...and to be honest, that's the answer to a question nobody asked. It's fine...but no better than my E2 or ZeroB.

I had this exact problem randomly! I just purchased the led and sent it in. I have not found the board to be worth $180 because of all the issues I have had with it. I will let you know what Will says from tadao about the screen when I get it back.

The thing I've noticed is that it's extremely sensitive to light. I have flat panel grips and I had to black them out with electrical tape, otherwise the trigger optical switch wouldn't activate and I'd be standing there twiddling my fingers while people bunkered my team and I. That one took a long time to figure out. Depending on which hand I was using to fire and the orientation of the sun, the gun would work absolutely fine or not fire at all. Thought it was possessed for awhile... That never happened with my E2 board.

And now with the screen failing...yeah, I'm not sure it was worth all that money.

hey Lone, what feedneck exactly are you using? Does it happen to be an ego style feedneck of some sort?

I know where you're going with that inquiry, lol. It's a stock feedneck that I milled down, cut slits, and used a bike seatpost clamp. The light is 100% blocked by the clamp. I know because the eye used to be possessed until I fixed that.

Ok man I contacted Will with all of the issues I was having with the board the light is only a problem with light grips not with dark ones. My board also reads trigger pulls very finicky acting like it sees the trigger pull much later and if the eyes are on will fire twice at times. It also sometimes will just shut off on me when firing during a game. Knowing all this I contacted Will and he basically told me since I do not have the receipt from my purchase I would have to just pay and send the board in and would be charged for whatever he found was needed to fix the issue. After paying $175 for a board I was a little upset that he refused to back his product in any way. So I said hell with it and asked if he could take a look at it if I paid him the $30 for the screen replacement. He said sure so I paid $39 dollars and shipped him the board. A week later I received the board back and installed it into my karnivor and within an hour the screen brightness started to dim. I took it out to play that weekend and could not see the screen what so ever. I tried playing with it and the board shut off on me in the middle of the game.....Disaster. Upset I contacted Will again asking if there was anything he could do for me. He told me that I received the board working so it must have been user error. That only upset me more and I told him I wanted it fixed and I should not have to pay again for something when I just did and it lasted a day. He has agreed to have me send it back in and warranty only the screen. Which I will be doing but odds are I will have the same issue in a week. I just installed my e2 board which functions flawlessly and am about to say to he** with Tadao.

I've had the board turn off on me too. I think it had to do with my settings though. I was trying to get the gun to shoot at a crazy ROF. My board would just turn off. After I adjusted the settings to a more reasonable parameter it worked flawlessly.

With the board turning off problems. It could be a short in solenoid wires. Check your clapper/mq and cocking noid wires to see if you have any frays. I had some frays in my cocking noid wires and thats what was causing my yakuza to short out and turn off when I shot at high ROF. All I did was wrap the wires in electrical tape and bam problem solved.