Monday, May 12, 2014

Day 16: Marcilhac sur Célé to Cabrarets (19 kms)

Robin at Marcilhac

We had a refreshing stay at Le Mas del Cap, just outside Marcilhac. The owner, Patricia Capelle was more than accommodating. I am not sure how this all gets coordinated, but we have had duck confit three nights in a row. Not complaining, just saying. Patricia explained that the hut behind Robin, and other similar structures (some smaller) are called Caselles, and were built to provide shelter for shepherds as they tended their flocks. So it is not not just about the wine and duck confit.

This morning the streets were damp, and Patricia offered us a bit of local weather forecasting wisdom. She said that if smoke (from whatever source) rises up from Marcilhac it will not rain. So our obvious follow up was, tell us about the smoke. Patricia offered a big, comforting smile and said it was rising. BTW, it didn't rain today. Who needs the Weather Channel anyway? So, making our goodbyes we set off in search of our old friend the GR651. We soon found ourselves trodding the familiar rocky trails, towards Sauliac, another dot on the chart. The hills and valleys rose up and fell away as the day progressed. One pleasant change was we found ourselves walking (off the rocks) on twin rutted rural roads. This was nicer on our feet and we were able to make better time, not that we had a schedule to keep.

Rocky path

Rural road

We had some nice views looking down to Marcilhac, but the stunner of the day was Sauliac. This was another cliff town like Saint Sulpice. Originally settled in the 10th century, it had its heyday and then fell into ruin. Restoration is now ongoing. The route we are walking has some of these incredible surprises, it also has paths that border cliffs the plummet straight down for hundreds of feet. There are some old rock walls bordering the path, but they have crumbled in spots. Regardless, you seem to adjust your concerns about your poncho becoming an impromptu bat glider, and just note the edge and walk on.

There really wasn't much else in the today's walk as the path veered off into the countryside and away from the valley wall. The walking wasn't particularly difficult. We followed the GR651 through a variety of wooded and open paths and were pleaseantly surprised when we saw a sign urging us off the path to our hotel for the night. It saved us .8 kms. Heady stuff at end of day. We arrived about 2:00 and that was that. We are now in the dining room sorting out the menu and enjoying a glass of wine. Off to St. Cirq Lapopie tomorrow, and then to Cahors. Bon soir.

Asolutely stunning photos. Oh those views! How lucky you are to be able to walk Le Chemin St. Jacques. I am enjoying your blog and photos tremendously! Thank you for taking the time to share your journey.Bon Chemin! Arlène