You've Got Snail

SOMETHING SPECIAL

January 11, 2004|By PRUDENCE SLOANE & BOB CHAPLIN You can write to Bob Chaplin and Prudence Sloane at something.special @earthlink.net.

While visiting Provence a few years ago, we met a man with several claims to fame. Yves Rousset-Rouard, owner of an excellent winery Domaine de la Citadelle, was also at the time the mayor of Menerbes, a picturesque hill town in the Luberon region of Provence. He owns perhaps the largest corkscrew collection in the world, and he produced two famous X-rated films of the '70s, ``Emmanuelle'' and ``The Story of O.'' Like most Frenchman, he's passionate about his local wine and food, and began talking about escargot, a favorite national dish. While we were tasting his wines, he expounded on the local snail farms. We thought he must be joking. But then, we had never thought about how snails are harvested. We assumed that snails were quite natural creatures picked wild from the land. In a farm, are the snails allowed to run free, then corralled before being processed? And if one escaped, just how far could that snail go? Such concerns piqued our interest.

An enthusiastic Yves offered to show us, and through the twisting dusty roads of the Luberon valley we raced at a bolting rabbit's pace in search of a snail farm. Eventually, in the middle of nowhere, we pulled off the road into a large field. Yves proudly turned toward this seemingly empty space and said, ``This is an escargot farm!''

Upon closer inspection, we saw that about a quarter of an acre was indeed fenced off. As snails are not known for their jumping skills, there was just a low wire fence. Inside this space were open crate-like structures. We could see a few snails, but hidden on the dark underside of the slats, thousands upon thousands of escargot quietly wandered while munching on specially planted herbs and bran.

If you ever wondered how these snails finally end up in the escargot dish, it's not just about collecting a few random snails and putting them in the pot. The farmer explained that there's an elaborate preparation involving fattening, and enforced fasting and purging before the humble gastropod is ready for the table.

But enough said, because snails are one of our favorite starters. While Bob's mother protected him from such foreign cuisines -- he was in his 20s before being exposed to such delights -- Pru's transformation from finicky eater to culinary adventurer occurred at the tender age of 4 . It was a pivotal moment. While traveling Europe with her parents and sister they stopped at a small French bistro. Her parents each ordered a plate of escargot. And as it was their responsibility to at least expose them to the native cuisine, they offered them each a snail, thinking they wouldn't like it. But oh boy, were they wrong! They loved them and from then on demanded plates of their own.

The right wine

In a pinch, a rich Sauvignon Blanc might suffice, but overall we suggest that a Chardonnay would fit the bill even better. And there are plenty of candidates around. But this doesn't mean any Chardonnay would do. Light-colored versions, such as French Chablis from northern Burgundy, with vibrant acidity, won't have the guts to work. Though to cut through some of the richness of the dish, a little tartness is desirable. But what we are looking for here is a full-bodied Chardonnay with enough stamina to accommodate the earthiness of the escargot and the herbal butteryness of the sauce.

If you're a purist and want to carry on the French connection, go to southern Burgundy, the birthplace of Chardonnay. Classic white Burgundy from south of Beaune has ripe pear and apple fruit balanced with soft acidity and minerality. If you can afford a Puligny Montrachet so much the better, but there are many affordable wines simply labeled ``Bourgogne'' that would go well with this rustic dish. And look to the lesser-known Burgundy villages such as Saint Veran or Auxey Duresses or the Maconnais region farther south.

Antonin Rodet 2001 Bourgogne ``Vielle Vignes'' -- $12

Prosper Maufoux 2001 Vire-Clesse -- $14

Georges Duboeuf 2001 Pouilly Fuisse -- $18

Ten to 15 years back we could never have recommended many California Chardonnays for this dish. Many were so heavily oaked that they overpowered even the smokiest of foods. But times have changed. While still retaining inherently deep fruit elements that are a result of the warm climate, they're now better balanced, elegant and more food-friendly. Look for Napa's lush Chardonnays with tropical and baked apple tart flavors. And to the west, Sonoma offers equally luxuriant wines often with a restrained earthy structure.