Got to work on the MC first. Ordered a dual res from Rock auto and installed it. The fit is perfect on the fire wall, other than the bleed screws being a little too long its no prob.

back view from under dash

here what i did to extend the push rod. Got a ubolt "part that mounts to the pedal" off of a 720 pu at the wrecking yard, added 2nuts on each side of the rod "not shown in pic" loctited and used Mikes turn down bolt/rod that he gave me whith the kit. Perfect fit!!

Thats all I got for now, Ill post some more pics tomorow of what I did with the lines. Also i just ordered the loaded G20 calipers and HB brakelines from Rock auto. Hopefully theyll get here this weekend and ill get crackin on that.

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"

Okay so I rebuilt the rear cylinders and while iam taking them off, the hardlines decided they"d snap. Being that Iam not a pro at flaring brake lines nor do I have the tools, I opted to buy some prefabbed ones at autozone. While I was down underneath the car I noticed the rear rubber line was shot as well. So a local shop offered this braided line with the correct fittings to replace to orig one. Then Once I took the rubber line off I noticed the tee is marred up inside, so back to autozone bought a tee that will work, heres some pics.

heres what itll look like installed on the axle, "prebent ofcourse" the other hardline is already on the axle didnt want to take it off for a pic

okay heres what I did for the MC lines. Also autozone (side note if you are doing to do this swap and are going to use AZ prefabbed hardlines get the lines that have the partnumber that starts with PA) they have a few different ones aparently Datsun used USA standard fittings on thier brakelines) I went in looking for metric and I was wrong.heres what it looks like underdash with rod hooked up.after i bent the line by hand and other tools i found this tool at harbor frieght and used it on the old line to see how well it would work and im impressed it did well without kinking the line.

Thanks mike the drivers sd mirror is in the back seat thats how I got it. Itll be on soon "NICE OBSERVATION!"

I guess I should subscribe to this seeing as it has my name in the title! LOL!!! Sweet! Thanks!

Sorry Mike, I guess I shouldve asked you if that was okay first, anyhow thanks for the kit. I actually rebuilt the whole front and rear cylinders and couldnt get it to bleed no matter what, so I quit decided Ill do the conversion and stop messing around with the old stuff, I want to drive this thing!!

Do you have part number for stainless hose or is it custom made?? Did you have your hubs done by MKlotz or did you do them yourself ??

Aaaaand , I really like both your cars i am pretty impressed by how nice they are..

Thanks Banana, the Part numbers are PA320 and PA3something I already ripped the tag off the other one. The way it works is PA stands for USA SAE fittings 3 stands for 3/16 line and the last 2 numbers are the length 20 for 20inches 30 for 30inches etc etc. The Hoses are actually pre flared complete with fittings on both sides all you do is bend them to shape, you can get them right off the shelf, Autozone stocks them in the back you will have to ask to let you go in the back and pick the ones you want. Also I bought rotors from Mklotz that were turned by him when I got the kit. I didnt want to send my hubs to Mike nor did I want to have someone local do them. Just thought itll be easier to get turned rotors.

From the looks of it you will soon need to replace that brake light switch on the brake manifold. Be careful! The "usual" replacement you get from Kragen or whatever they call themselves today has a threaded segment brazed into a pressed metal body. Not too bad, but! The braze joint lately is sloppy and leaves a pronounced fillet large enough that the switch will not bottom out and so your switch will leak brake fluid copiously! Order from RockAuto, their unit is Japanese and machined out of solid brass and seals properly when torqued down. The only problem is that the standard 1 by 1 and 1/8 inch brake switch socket won't work. The standard socket has rounded corners to accomodate the OEM "dimpled" corners on the OEM switch. The solid brass unit has sharply machined corners to the hex top and won't seat into the "standard" socket. Also you probably won't have the clearance to use a 1 and 1/8 socket, which also probably is too tall and has just enough rounding to hang up on the brass body. Open ended crescent 1 inch wrench is your friend and saviour! Personal experience!

It's pretty easy to mount a switch at the brake pedal instead of the pressure line. Just use bullet connectors and some wire to "extend" the wire from the current pressure switch to a new switch at the pedal. Lot's of other datsuns have the switch and they can still be bought new. I changed to a pedal switch on my wife's 521 and the NL320.

From the looks of it you will soon need to replace that brake light switch on the brake manifold. Be careful! The "usual" replacement you get from Kragen or whatever they call themselves today has a threaded segment brazed into a pressed metal body. Not too bad, but! The braze joint lately is sloppy and leaves a pronounced fillet large enough that the switch will not bottom out and so your switch will leak brake fluid copiously! Order from RockAuto, their unit is Japanese and machined out of solid brass and seals properly when torqued down. The only problem is that the standard 1 by 1 and 1/8 inch brake switch socket won't work. The standard socket has rounded corners to accomodate the OEM "dimpled" corners on the OEM switch. The solid brass unit has sharply machined corners to the hex top and won't seat into the "standard" socket. Also you probably won't have the clearance to use a 1 and 1/8 socket, which also probably is too tall and has just enough rounding to hang up on the brass body. Open ended crescent 1 inch wrench is your friend and saviour! Personal experience!

Actually good call RL my stoplight dont work right now, I may just do what Mklotz did with his NL and move it over to the brake pedal it seems so much easier and more reliable with zero leaks.Thanks guys

Thanks for the info on the hose... I haven`t decided whether im going to turn the hubs or the rotors yet,, but my project is a few years from starting....Making a thread about this does make the parts gathering WAY easier for all that go after..

Will be shutting up now and waiting for pictures,,,lots and lots of pictures.. I like lotsa text too

q-tip, on 06 Jul 2013 - 09:27 AM, said:

I think they're the same casting for the housing its just whether it has a fan clutch on it or not, but don`t qoute me on that.

How similar is the 411 brake MC compared to the 510 brake MC in terms out firewall mounting and such? I see from the above pictures that the bleeder nipples are on the outside of the 411 unit compared to the inside on the US 510 unit. You cant fit a lot of side draft air cleaners due to the nipples being in the way. Would be nice to swap over to a MC (thats available at the local parts store) that has the nipples on the opposite side.

How similar is the 411 brake MC compared to the 510 brake MC in terms out firewall mounting and such? I see from the above pictures that the bleeder nipples are on the outside of the 411 unit compared to the inside on the US 510 unit. You cant fit a lot of side draft air cleaners due to the nipples being in the way. Would be nice to swap over to a MC (thats available at the local parts store) that has the nipples on the opposite side.

The MC you see above is for a 1975 620 as far as the difference from 411 to 510 mounting I really couldnt help you Sorry bro, but Iam sure someone else here will be able to answer that.