Country diary

Tucked away on the banks of a broad bend on the river Findhorn, south of Inverness, is Dalarossie church and churchyard. The river has already flowed a few miles from its source (the exact rivulet is still not known) in the remote Monadhliath hills. In the mid-19th century naturalist Charles St John described it thus: "I do not know a river that more completely realises one's ideas of the beauty of Highland scenery than the Findhorn." It is easy to see why, as the broad river sweeps around the stone-walled churchyard as if caressing the outline.

A dipper called as it flew past, landed on a water-smoothed boulder and then sang. The song at this time of the year is a sweet rippling warble that will delight the ear until next July.

The reason why this particular site was chosen for such a holy place is lost in the mists of time. It was first recorded in the 8th century when it was dedicated to the Celtic St Fergus. Dalarossie is derived from the Gaelic "Dail Fhearguis", which means field, or dale, of Fergus.

The present church was built in 1790 and is now a place of great tranquillity, a far cry from the days when the strath would have been well-populated and cattle and horse fairs were held weekly in the nearby fields at certain times of the year.

A reflection of former, less peaceful, times is the watchhouse built around 1820 to guard against bodysnatchers. Unusually it is attached to the church and has no windows. Inside the church is a "priest's stone", sometimes called a "bargaining stone". In the past a couple would thrust their right hands through the hole in the stone and clinch a bargain. They would live together for a year and a day before deciding if it was "for real". It seemed fitting that, as we left the churchyard, a raven flew over.