Days of wine and cider in the Traverse Bay area

Growing up in Traverse City no one has to be told to "go outside to play." It's what they do in this area of Michigan.

Anchoring the shores of East Traverse Bay and West Traverse Bay, you expect Traverse City to draw outdoor enthusiasts. Up on the little pinky of Michigan, the same water that washes around the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas to produce memorable harbors and beaches also moderates the air temperature just enough to allow memorable vineyards and fruit orchards to thrive. Under a cloudless sky one glorious morning we decided to skip our scheduled beach time and to head out to Black Star Farms (10844 E. Revold Rd.; 231-944-1270; www.blackstarfarms.com), one of 15 wineries on the Leelanau (www.lpwines.com). Old Mission Peninsula has seven wineries (www.wineriesofoldmission.com).

We didn't plan to taste wine at this celebrated winery, although you could do so and keep your glass as a souvenir. We wanted to try Black Star's apple cider, which is 7 percent alcohol -- more than most beer, less than most wines.

Apple cider, the potable choice of the 18th Century, may well be making a comeback. At least that's what we had read. Multi-packs line shelves in grocery stores; cider bars are popping up in New York City, and there are thousands of cider sites on the Web. We also heard that Black Star Farms makes really good cider, maybe even the best.

Turning into the complex, the view is unexpected. With rolling hills and a compound of barns and farm buildings, it looks more like a horse farm than a winery. The main house, an exclusive bed-and-breakfast, is a looming, red-brick colonial with white pillars. On the drive toward the tasting room, we passed horse stables and fruit cellars before the vineyards and orchards came into view.

With accolades for its varietal wines and brandies dressing the walls -- even a letter from the White House in appreciation of Black Star's A Capella Riesling Ice -- why make cider?

Don Coe says it really isn't such a stretch from winemaking. Coe is managing partner of Black Star, which he owns with Kerm Campbell. You'll find Coe and his wife, Mary Lou, in the tasting room every day, mingling with visitors, swapping stories and pitching in where needed.

Black Star started making cider in 2002, and they approach it the same way they do wine. Winemaker and cider maker Lee Lutes sees to that. The result? A hard cider without a yeasty finish.

"This cider is made in a winemaker style," Lutes said. Nothing is added that would affect the vibrancy of the fruit components or mask the fruit's flavor, and that includes sugar. This hard cider still tastes like apples -- not sugary like a juice box, but sparkling like club soda. It tastes like apples ... with a buzz.

We picked up some cheese before heading back to town; the tasting room doubles as a viewing room of the Leelanau Creamery. Don't miss the raclette.

Another don't-miss is downtown Traverse City, a shopper's paradise with 150 specialty stores from sporting goods to foodstuffs and coffee shops.

And it is walkable. The tallest building is the 10-story Park Place Hotel (300 E. State St.; 231-946-5000; park-place-hotel.com). Spectacular views of the West Bay and the area's best sunset can be enjoyed at the Beacon Lounge, the hotel's rooftop bar.

Best buy: Hands down, it's breakfast at Mabel's Diner (472 Munson Ave.; 231-947-0252). Portions are served as you like them -- big enough to satisfy a fullback or single servings. As we sipped the great coffee, the waitress told us why the pancakes taste sweet (the cook adds vanilla to the batter).

Big splurge: Trattoria Stella (1200 W. 11th St.; 231-929-8989; www.stellatc.com). Stella's occupies the lower level of Building 50 on the renovated campus of a former state mental institution now known as Grand Traverse Commons. The stark ambience is a perfect foil for the dramatic food presentations from the Italian kitchen.

We shared a plate of three cheeses, figs and nuts served on a wooden board and a plate of heirloom tomatoes with goat cheese before indulging in our entrees. The menu lists the local purveyors who provide ingredients, like herbs and baby carrots from Werp Farms.

More, more, more: Pull on your best walkers and head out on a segment of the 18-mile Traverse Area Recreation Trail. The paved trail wends its way through the heart of downtown, along the river and lakefront. Maps are available at any of the three visitors and information centers.