Later, she learns that pie with cheese is known in other enclaves. Vermont, for instance. Wisconsin. Cheddar itself. But then, those venues suffer a surplus of cheese. She wonders: Did riders really pack pie? Was the tradition less cowgirl, more fantasy?

Humming, she browns a skillet of apples and wraps them in cheese-salted pastry. The pie is sweet, tart and savory. It tastes of summer mornings, sad songs and open sky.

Cowgirl Apple Pie

Prep: 1 hour, plus 1 hour to chill

Bake: 40 minutes

Makes: One 9-inch pie

1 disk cheddar pastry, see recipe

3 pounds (about 7) apples (a mix of tart, such as Granny Smith, and crisp, such as Gala)