Cookbook critic: 'Pies: Sweet and Savory' could lead to a pie addiction

From apple and cherry pies to trendy mini-meat creations, "Pies: Sweet and Savory" provides everything needed to produce tasty creations. There is an overview describing types of pies with a wonderful visual index. The index is broken down by top-crust pies, double-crust pies, cobblers and crumbles, individual pies and tarts, quiches and savory tarts, sweet tarts, layered pies and potato-topped pies. The photographs of the finished items seem to jump out of the page screaming, "eat me, eat me!"

Each recipe starts with an introduction, following with portion size, preparation and cooking time. I wanted to test one recipe from each of the categories. I did find some inconsistencies; for example, chicken and sweet corn pie had too much broth. The crust of the asparagus cream cheese quiche called for lard, which I wanted to avoid, so I used my own whole wheat crust. The recipe did not state that the pie shell needed to be baked before to adding the filling.

Just before St. Patrick's Day, we invited friends for a testing dinner. They prepared the blueberry cream cheese tart; the dough was difficult to work with and the filling was too much for the tart pan. I served the French beef and herb potato pie; the green mashed potato crust was perfect for St. Patrick's Day.

Overall, this is a good, comprehensive book. It may well lead to a pie addiction!

RECIPES

Broccoli, tomato and mozzarella galettes

Serves 4

Prep time: 20 minutes; cook: 35 minutes

For the filling:

6 ounces broccoli, cut in florets

3½ ounces mozzarella, grated

6 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and finely chopped

6 tablespoons crème fraiche plus extra for brushing

Salt and pepper to taste

For the pastry:

13 ounces sheet store-bought puff pastry

Cook the broccoli in a saucepan of boiling water, lightly salted water for 2 minutes, until almost tender. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain again. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Sprinkle a little water over the baking sheet to dampen.

Place the broccoli florets in a large bowl, add the mozzarella, tomatoes and crème fraiche. Season with salt and pepper and stir well to combine.

Cut the pastry into quarters. Pile one quarter of the filling at one end of each oblong, leaving a border. Then brush the pastry edges with water. Fold over the uncovered halves of pastry, press the edges together to seal, and transfer to the dampened baking sheet. Make a few slashes in the tops and brush some crème fraiche over the top for glaze. Bake for 30 minutes, until puffy, crisp and golden.

Note: I rolled the pastry dough out just a little so it would not be thick. I would try this again substituting whole milk for the crème fraiche.

French beef and herb potato pie

Serves 6

For the filling:

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1/3 cup olive oil, plus extra for greasing

1 large onion, diced

2¼ pound ground beef

14-ounce can chopped tomatoes

1 cup beef stock

½ cup dry white wine

For the topping:

2¼ pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 to 3 pieces

1 bunch of basil, leaves only

1 bunch parsley, leaves only

1 cup milk plus extra if needed

Finely chop 2 garlic cloves. Heat one-third of the olive oil in a sauté pan or frying pan. Add the onion and cook for to 5 minutes, stirring until soft but not brown. Add the chopped garlic, ground beef, salt and pepper and tomatoes. Reduce the heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally for 10 to 12 minutes, until the meat is brown. Stir in the stock and wine. Simmer over very low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, until most of the liquid has been evaporated. Do not cook the meat too fast or it will be tough. To make the topping: place the potatoes in a saucepan with plenty of cold water and add salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until tender when pierced with a knife. Pulse the basil, parsley leaves and the rest of the garlic with the remaining oil in a food processor to form a puree.

Drain the potatoes and return them to the pan and mash. Add the herb puree. Warm the milk in a small saucepan or microwave slightly. Gradually beat the milk into the potatoes over medium heat, and stir for 2 to 3 minutes, until the potatoes just hold a shape.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease the baking dish with oil. Taste the meat for seasoning and, then spoon it, with any of its liquid, into the dish. Spoon an even layer of potatoes over the filling and smooth the top with the back of a spoon. Bake until the top is golden brown and the edges are bubbling. It should take about 35 to 40 minutes. Cut the pie in 6 portions and serve.

Note: I drained some of the grease from the meat before adding the stock and wine. I warmed the milk for the potatoes in the microwave for 20 to 30 seconds. Prep time is about 60 minutes if you prepare both the potatoes and the meat at the same time

Cookbook Critic runs Wednesdays in the Plus section. This week's Cookbook Critic is Carol Neel of San Rafael who considers herself a "cookbookaholic" because she has about 50 cookbooks that she reads as novels. As soon as a recipe is discovered, the cooking begins for family and friends.

If you're interested in being a Cookbook Critic for the IJ, please email vlarson@marinij.com and include a little about yourself, your town, your cooking expertise, any dietary restrictions and types of foods you like to cook/bake. Please put "Cookbook Critic" in the subject line.