Details

The menu offers very few surprises and definitely next-to-none of the Isaan region specialties that make fans of Thai cooking drive everywhere from North Hollywood to Las Vegas' legendary Lotus of Siam just for a nibble. But you can sense the owners aren't content with merely slopping food onto plates for their loyal customers, that they're aching to flex their culinary muscle and show their true talents. Little touches hint at what truly drives Sutha Thai: a bit more spice on the pad Thai, for instance, or a heartier flavor in the masuman curry, a murky lava filled with potatoes and peanuts. All of the offerings are great, even if expected. Sutha Thai lets its true talents shine, however, in the Thai-style salads, in which all pretenses of politeness are dropped.

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