Assam beyond Kaziranga

From a quiet monastery to a riotously colourful food market, the state boasts plenty of fascinating secrets

An array of masks on display in Majuli, a river island in Assam. Photo: Michel Figuet

Standing ankle-deep in sand on a steep ghat above the vast Brahmaputra, I realised I’d taken the wrong route to Majuli.

The previous evening, an invitation to spend the first day of Bihu, Assam’s month-long harvest festival, at the famous Uttar Kamalabari Satra had been shouted over a dodgy phone line by the monastery’s living deity himself. I had less than a day to get from North Lakhimpur (Assam’s entry point to Arunachal Pradesh) to Sri Sri Janardhan Dev Goswami’s 450-year-old premises. So, ignoring everyone’s advice to motor eight hours to the ferry, I threw my fate (and, unwisely, a large sum of money) into the hands of an eager taxi driver who promised a “short-cut”.

But when miles of tea estate yielded to vast floodplains and we finally slanted right down to the river, all I saw was a narrow boat. I stepped out to examine the few planks laid over two canoes, already crammed with betel-chewing men, bicycles, chickens and sacks of vegetables and fruit. And when I turned around, I found my suitcase dumped onto the sand, the taxi reversing away at full speed. “Last boat to Majuli!” the scoundrel of a driver shouted. Then he was gone.

Majuli

I’ve always had a soft spot for river islands; my roots are in beautiful Divar in Goa’s Mandovi River. But Majuli is on a different scale altogether, acclaimed by UNESCO as one of the wonders of the world, a “unique geographical occurrence” with “abodes of rich flora and fauna unique to this region”.

Once the world’s largest river island (erosion has caused it to yield to an Amazonian rival), Majuli is home to 22 neo-Vaishnavite monasteries founded in the 15th and 16th centuries by scholar-reformer-saint Sankaradeva, who also initiated deeply beloved forms of music, dance and theatrical performance.

Bihu dancers in Majuli, Assam. Photo: Michel Figuet

Its unbroken tradition of preserving these neo-Vaishnavite cultural forms has made Uttar Kamalabari world-famous, the subject of countless studies and documentaries. It was the satra’s name that drew nods of recognition for me, stranded on that riverbank in a crowd of Mishing tribals who spoke neither English nor Hindi. That evening’s adventure continued with two sardine-packed Sumo rides and the first hand-drawn ferry I’ve ever seen—but I was in safe, friendly hands all the way. Finally, just after dusk, I had Majuli’s endless greenery enticingly lush on all sides and could see millions of fireflies sparkling right up to the stars. It felt like we were entering the garden of Eden.

Kaziranga & Manas

Kaziranga reportedly has the highest density of tigers in the world. Photo: Michel Figuet

When most people think of travel in Assam, Kaziranga is what comes to mind. On a previous trip with my wife and sons, that is precisely where we headed. The acclaimed wildlife destination and UNESCO World Heritage Site was even better than we’d imagined—rhinos, elephants, buffaloes, spectacular birds and deer everywhere, and reportedly the highest density of tigers in the world. My kids loved being able to pile onto an elephant’s back and amble right up to an astonishing array of animals.

Tee off at the Kaziranga Golf Resort. Photo: Michel Figuet

But what really hooked me on Assam was another UNESCO-listed reserve, Manas, which spills across the border into Bhutan. At Mathanguri Forest Lodge, our bedrooms had stunning views of Bhutan’s mountains looming above, while river rapids roared below. We rafted across the border and went to the King’s summer palace, gaped at honking giant hornbills and some of the last golden langurs on Earth, then stayed awake all night, transfixed by dramatic electrical storms that illuminated the valley in flashes of silver and blue. I knew, then, that I would return.

Assam through the years

The Brahmaputra’s long, verdant valley had never previously been a possession of any outside entity, until the 19th-century collapse of the Ahoms. That calamity led to the Burmese invasion, followed by a swift transfer to British hands in 1826, after their victory in the first Anglo-Burmese War. Almost immediately, the territory became central to the economic prosperity of the Raj, as the first oil wells in Asia were discovered at Digboi, and Assam became the world’s largest and most profitable tea-growing territory.

Even long after 1947, ‘undivided’ Assam retained its colonial-era form, encompassing what is now Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Nagaland and Mizoram, with its capital in the highland city of Shillong (now in Meghalaya). That changed in 1972, with the hill regions cut away. Soon, protests began across the newly defined state, led by increasingly popular movements for government action against illegal migration, especially from Bangladesh. Decades of trouble ensued, which are only now heading to resolution. If peace holds, the state can expect a sustained tourism boom. It is already, quietly, a traveller’s bonanza, just waiting to go global.

Uttar Kamalabari

This is a ‘bachelor satra’, where little boys (no more than babies), dedicated to the monastery by their families, grow to spend their lives in a routine of the rigorous practice of satriya arts. These bhakats live in family-type units arrayed around an ancient courtyard, senior and junior members responsible for the children. The atmosphere is light-hearted and joyous, yet elegant and refined. It is also one of the most welcoming religious institutions I’ve encountered: after three days of sharing vegetarian food with me, Sri Sri Janardhan Dev Goswami became concerned about my Goan taste buds and cooked a fish curry for me!

The gentle spiritual ambience of the satras has a distinct impact on the rest of Majuli, whose joie de vivre reminded me of my Goan island idyll. Everyone seemed trustworthy, there were no locked doors to be seen, nobody tried to fleece me. Even though the tourism infrastructure was bare-bones (spare guest-houses, bamboo huts), it was hard to peel myself away to the ferry for Jorhat.

Thengal Manor

Thengal Manor makes for an opulent, comfortable stay in Jorhat.

After Uttar Kamalabari’s austerity, the opulent Thengal Manor provides a fantastic contrast. The Edwardian manor, built in 1929 by pioneering tea planter Raibahadur Siba Prasad Barooah, comes fully staffed, with a justifiable reputation for serving some of the best food in Assam. Meal after meal, I was blown away by Chef Bipul Baruah’s creations: delicate fish tenga, papaya curd, sautéed banana flower and bamboo-shoot chutney, with impossibly aromatic local Joha rice.

Head to Thengal Manor for some of the best food in Assam. Photo: Michel Figuet

By now, Bihu was at its height, gorgeously red-bedecked dancers and musicians prancing down every lane. One evening, after several cups of delicious, locally produced tea, I followed one group around. The skill and grace of the teenage performers was almost unbelievable—every gesture choreographed to perfection—and so was the warm hospitality at each house I visited, where I was presented with handwoven gamosas (Assamese scarves).

Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary

Only an hour’s drive away from Thengal is Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary. This 20sqkm of evergreen forest has the highest primate density in Asia, including India’s only ape species (the Hoolock gibbon) and the Northeast’s sole nocturnal primate species (the slow loris), as well as five other varieties of macaques and langurs. Deep into the jungle, I heard sonorous hooting before catching sight of the gibbons. This species never leaves its tree canopy—so high above, I almost lost my balance from craning back. Through binoculars, I could see sleek, black-coated adults moving at a leisurely pace, with a cream-coloured ball of baby gibbon stuck on like candyfloss. One male watched me take pictures, then suddenly plummeted through the branches, squirting in my direction. I raced away with urine and rock-hard faeces thumping down in my footsteps like tracer bullets. The guard said he’d never seen a gibbon object to a voyeur like that before.

Jorhat

This is a pleasant little city still dominated by the tea industry, with a strong colonial stamp. Its Gymkhana Club was founded in 1876, the world’s third-oldest golf course (the oldest in Asia) manicured right up to the verandah. Down the road is Tocklai Experimental Station, the world’s oldest and largest tea research centre. And in the centre of town is Doss & Co, the first department store in the Northeast (founded in 1865), which sells everything from soap to tinned sardines. The Doss family greets customers by name, sitting them down for conversation around a marble-topped table set at the front of the store. Time stands still in old “Jorehaut”.

But that feeling dissipates as we tear down the spanking new Asian Highway #1, heading towards the bridge that will take me across to Balipara, near Tezpur. Furious construction activity continues on this corridor that will connect Guwahati to Bangkok via Mandalay and Yangon. The governments of India and Myanmar remain publicly committed to a 2016 deadline, when Assam, Nagaland and Manipur will be directly connected via Myanmar to fast-developing Vietnam and Thailand, a historic opening of an entirely new economic zone that can be expected to transform the region permanently.

Balipara

At Balipara, the Addabarie Tea Estate is itself something new in Assam: its heritage bungalows have been converted into Wild Mahseer, a first-rate boutique hotel. Visitors can have the full planter’s experience, including Anglo-Indian food and a visit to one of the world’s legendary angling destinations.

Wild Mahseer’s owner, Ranjit Barthakur, is a prominent spokesman for Assam’s natural heritage, especially Kaziranga, where he advocates development that is “carbon-negative, energy-positive, water-positive and free from land, air and water pollution”. All around Addabarie, the importance of Barthakur’s goals is undeniable. The Brahmaputra Valley has extraordinary biodiversity and fertile farmlands. “Everything grows here without much effort,” says Neelam Dutta, whose organic farm is a short drive from Wild Mahseer. “It’s not too different from bottomless oil reserves that could pay unlimited dividends forever.” Walking through his fields to point out the crops that flourish without any chemical fertiliser, he declared “there is no place in the world more fertile than this river valley. Assam can feed the entire country.”

Enjoy a tea-tasting session at Wild Mahseer. Photo: Michel Figuet

The next morning, on my way back to the Brahmaputra waters, I stopped at the weekly market at Balipara and saw proof of Dutta’s conviction: outsized vegetables, herbs and fruit arrayed in immense piles, gleaming fish so fresh they were still gasping for air, everything on sale for a fraction of the price you might expect to pay in an Indian city. I’ve never seen eggplant so perfect, so many different kinds of greens or fresh chillies, including little mounds of jewel-like bhut jholokia.

Half of one of those bhut jholokias was added to my breakfast a little later: a masala omelette made over a kerosene stove on a country boat piloted out from Tezpur by the enthusiastic river-dwelling Johur Ali. Even before I could finish it, he shouted for my attention and pointed to where river dolphins arched out of the water. Here, the fast-flowing waters ran pure and unmuddied—the boatman drank it to show me it was safe—and the dolphins gathered in pods of up to a dozen, trailing languidly in our wake all the way to Silghat, where we’d come to see the Ashokastami Mela.

Silghat

Nothing anyone had told me was adequate preparation for the scale of the mela. We could hear the crowd’s rumble way upriver before we finally turned a bend to see at least 1,00,000 pilgrims pressing towards the Brahmaputra for their ritual bath. It took half an hour to get to the mela, where another 5,00,000 or more people were crammed into grounds that sprawled out like the world’s biggest mall, selling everything from machetes to boiled gram.

I wandered, dazed, in this exhilarated, raucous crowd until Johur Ali indicated it was time to return. Back at the shore, he beamed in approval when I stripped to my shorts and paid respect to the river by immersing myself alongside the innumerable locals. The water was startlingly cold, and I coasted back to Tezpur in the late afternoon, refreshed.

Tezpur

Only the fifth largest city in Assam, Tezpur has an outsized importance to India because the Chinese Army rampaged right up this bank of the Brahmaputra in 1962, before retreating. So while there are some ancient ruins of varying interest, and the usual tea estates ringing the city, there is a different energy here because it is the headquarters of the Indian Army’s IV Corps, and houses a major Air Force base as well as a Defence Research Laboratory.

Kamakhya temple

En route to my final stop at Guwahati, I spent several hours at this hilltop temple. Central to Assamese identity, it’s one of the most important points of pilgrimage in India for tantric worshippers. The temple is consecrated to Shakti, with an area for animal sacrifice. I watched petitioners from across the state queue down the temple steps, with doves, goats and calves. There were buffaloes already tied to a pillar.

Outside the temple offices, I happened to meet 36-year-old Jitendra Nath Sharma, whose family is one of those entrusted with taking care of the temple, but who now lives and works in Canada. According to him, “modern Guwahati is built on lands that used to be owned entirely by Kamakhya Brahmins; until 50 years ago, everything you see up to the horizon was theirs”. But times have changed for his community—the Urban Land Ceiling Act forced sales, younger members migrated in large numbers and “Guwahati is no longer a collection of villages”.

Guwahati

The end of insurgent violence has benefitted Guwahati more than any other place in Assam—it is arguably India’s fastest-growing city. Even if elephants still regularly stray across its borders, the city centre is now choked with traffic all day long, with malls and commercial complexes mushrooming everywhere, and stylish cafés and restaurants opening up in sleepy old neighbourhoods near the waterfront. Six five-star hotels are under construction in Guwahati.

“Assam—the Brahmaputra Valley—has always had so much to offer that is world-class, but we’ve never had the vision or leadership to get there,” Mriganka Madhukaillya told me, as we sat down for an outstanding Italian meal at Terra Mayaa, a glittering new terrace restaurant with panoramic views of Guwahati. Madhukaillya is one half of Desire Machine Collective (along with his wife, Sonal Jain), an avant-garde art practice that has achieved a sterling global reputation without leaving Guwahati. Its work has been showcased at the Guggenheim Museum in New York and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, and represented India in its first-ever pavilion at the Venice Biennale. This young couple shares an enthusiasm for what Assam has to offer, and together, introduced me to other hidden gems near Guwahati: in Sualkachi, the handwoven silk capital of Assam, we shopped for exquisite muga and eri shawls. In Sarthebari, where bell metal has been forged for centuries, I bought a heavy antique tumbler that looks like it’s several centuries old.

On my last evening in Assam, Mriganka and Sonal took me back to see their floating culture centre, Periferry. Commuter ferryboats crisscrossed to the opposite bank, and we got onto one for a final trip together. Trailing our feet in the water, we gasped as dolphins surfaced unexpectedly all around us. Then, sitting in silence, I watched the sun set over the Brahmaputra for the last time.

SUGGESTED ITINERARY

1) KAZIRANGA Drive three hours to the national park; stay for two nights.

Where to stay:Diphlu River Lodge: This is a collection of luxurious wooden lodges set in rice fields (doubles from Rs16,000).Wild Grass Lodge: The area’s top safari lodge (+91-9954416945; doubles from Rs2,450).

2) JORHAT Drive two hours and spend a night here.

Where to stay:Thengal Manor: A luxe hotel with great food (doubles from Rs6,500).

Where to stay:Dynasty Hotel: A professional hotel in Assam’s capital (doubles from Rs6,000).Radisson Blu Hotel: The state’s first five-star hotel, near the airport (doubles from Rs8,500).Hacienda: The art-filled villa offers three rooms and a suite (doubles from Rs9,000).

Where to eat:Delicacy: Assamese, Naga, Mizo specialities.Brown Bean Café: The best coffee in Guwahati, and some fantastic baked goods (HC Road, Uzanbazar).Terra Mayaa: Good continental and Indian food.

What to do:Kamakhya temple: Landmark of tantric practice in India.River cruises: Take a sunset ferry ride.

Also check out: India’s top safari stays

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Shergarh, Madhya Pradesh

This tented camp lies at the edge of Kanha Tiger Reserve (3km from Mukki gate), amid young woodlands. The six rustic, homely tents are spaced out in a way that you get ample privacy. Between your jeep safaris, sign up for village walks, cycling or bird-watching. Upcoming season: 16 October 2015 to 31 May 2016. Tariff: Doubles from Rs9,500. Website

Taj Banjaar Tola, Madhya Pradesh

This safari lodge sits just outside Kanha National Park, on the banks of River Banjaar. There are only nine suites between the two campsites, perfect for when you’d like to spot more animals than people. Knead away that weariness brought on by a 4x4- or elephant-ride in the forest with a lavish spa therapy in the privacy of your tent, on the private deck or by the pool. Current season: Till 16 June 2016. Tariff: From Rs47,500 per person, per night, on sharing basis, inclusive of all meals, soft and select alcoholic beverages, and two safari activities per day. Website

The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore, Rajasthan

Perfect for a safari holiday with hotel-style comforts. Each of the 25 air-conditioned tents has a four-poster king bed, walk-in closet, Internet access, satellite television, CD/DVD player, refrigerated personal bar and bedside telephone. Outside, there’s a heated swimming pool, business centreand the Library Bar, which offers a selection of spirits, cigars and books on wildlife. Not counting the daily drives to the tiger reserve, 10minutes away, there’s still a roster of things to do—from elephant and camel rides to art walks and market visits. Tariff: Doubles from Rs65,000. Website

Sher Bagh, Ranthambore, Rajasthan

Not far from the Oberoi camp, Sher Bagh, with 12 tented suites, is a relatively intimate affair. With hand-stitched tents and vintage furniture, the camp makes an effort to recreate the era of British safari campaigns. Suites are also equipped with a private jacuzzi. Game drives are a given, but do carve time for camel safaris and bird-watching sessions. The site also has an organic garden, from where you can pick fresh ingredients for your meals. Current season: Till 15 May 2016. Website

JAWAI Leopard Camp, Rajasthan

Jawai is where the leopards roam free, prowl around the villages and nap inside its temples. It is this setting that makes your stay at the JAWAI Leopard Camp raw and real. The 10 contemporary-style canvas tents all come with private decks, which allow unhindered views of the wilderness. Apart from game drives, you can go hiking, cycling, or just take a stroll around the village with local Rabari herdsmen. Return to your tent for an indulgent full-body massage. Current season: Till 15 May 2016. Website

Mahua Kothi, Madhya Pradesh

Spread over 40 acres, this lodge puts you 20 minutes away from Bandhavgarh National Park. The 12 guest suites—or ‘kutiyas’—have been inspired by the traditional style of central India, with wooden shutters, tapered mud-coloured walls and handmade pottery roof tiles. In case you’re keen on more than just game drives, the area is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and for those interested, there are bicycles for the taking. Current season: Till 16 June 2016. Tariff: From Rs47,500 per person, per night, on sharing basis, inclusive of all meals, soft and select alcoholic beverages, and two safari activities per day .Website

Baghvan, Madhya Pradesh

A 10-minute drive from the entrance of Pench National Park, this jungle lodge is perfect for couples. Each of the 12 standalone suites sits alongside a dry riverbed, with a canopy of beautiful trees surrounding you. Plus, there’s a rooftop machan, with a mosquito net and hookah pipes, just right for when all you need is a night under the stars. Also make time for a visit to the Alikatta elephant camp nearby, named after the village that also finds a mention in The Jungle Book. Current season: Till 16 June 2016. Tariff: From Rs47,500 per person, per night, on sharing basis, inclusive of all meals, soft and select alcoholic beverages, and two safari activities per day. Website

Samode Safari Lodge, Madhya Pradesh

You’ll be staying right in the heart of tiger country, adjacent to Bandhavgarh. There are 12 private villas to book from; each has a four-poster bed, an open-air bath court with a shower and a large tub, and a verandah with forest views. Don’t just settle for meals at the restaurant—ask for a table out in the bushes to up your romance. Or just head out for a daytime picnic after you’ve ticked off the safari. Current season: Till 15 June 2016. Tariff: Doubles from Rs46,000, inclusive of all meals, soft drinks and select alcoholic beverages, and two safari activities per day. Website

Ken River Lodge, Madhya Pradesh

Out there to spot the big cat in Panna? Try setting camp in any of the six village-style huts or the six cottage rooms at this luxe lodge, just a kilometre from the park gate. Fresh home-cooked meals are dished out at in a 3,000sqft machaan, where you also get to feast on splendid views of River Ken. Give your wildlife encounter a twist by going out on a night safari too—a great way to sight jackals, civets, foxes, sloth bears, cheetal, leopards, wolves and even nocturnal creatures. Current season: Till 30 June 2016. Tariff: Doubles from Rs8,000, including all three meals, tea-coffee and taxes. Website

Orange County, Kabini, Karnataka

Bordered on two sides by River Kabini, this jungle resort has been designed like a tribal village. Choose between a Pool Hut, which gets you your own personal swimming pool to yourself, and a Jacuzzi Hut (need we say more here?). There are different safari experiences on offer: boat safaris on River Kabini, vehicle safaris to Nagarhole, and night trails around the premises. To take your romance to another level, book the Candle Light Cruise dinner. And don’t miss the coracle ride too. Tariff: Doubles from Rs29,701 for a Jacuzzi Hut. Website

The Serai, Bandipur, Karnataka

After a five-hour drive from Bengaluru, you would want to arrive at a place that’s nothing short of indulgent. And The Serai is just that. The 24 rooms, huts and suites all come with great views. The pool, in the heart of the wild, is perfect for a therapeutic swim. Once Mission: Safari has been accomplished, you can either unwind in your room or head out to Ooty just an hour away. Tariff: From Rs16,620, inclusive of taxes. Website

Diphlu River Lodge, Assam

Located on the banks of River Diphlu, this one overlooks Kaziranga. You know you’re in for an exclusive experience, because the lodge takes in only 24 guests at a time. The 12 cottages look out either to the river or to paddy fields. Take the rhino trail either on elephant back or in a jeep—the lodge can arrange for both. Other must-dos: lunch by the riverside, elephant bathing and the Dolphin Boat Safari. Tariff: From Rs9,000 per person, per night, on twin-sharing basis. Website

The Gateway Hotel Gir Forest, Gujarat

Right on the edge of lion land, this hotel enjoys a serene setting, apt if you’re seeking an escape from the urban noise. The 28 rooms, facing the forest and the river, feature standard amenities, including free Wi-Fi. If you want to host an event in this tranquil environment, the hotel also offers a banquet hall that can seat 40 at a time.Website