Extreme contrast of old and new ~ Tsukishima(月島)/Tsukuda(佃) in Tokyo ~

The other day I went on a small trip to Tsukishima(月島)/Tsukuda(佃) district, located in Chuo-ward of Tokyo, which is one of the few places in Tokyo that did not suffer air raid during the world war II.
While Tsukishima suffered from fire after Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and most buildings burned down, Tsukuda did not suffer from it and many century-old buildings in Tsukuda survived intact till today. That is a very rare case in entire Tokyo because majority of buildings in Tokyo were burned down either by air raid during the WWII or Great Kanto Earthquake. Although this water-front area has been rapidly re-developed these days, you can still see some historical buildings in this area.

■Where is it?
It is near Tsukiji fish market, in the eastern part of Tokyo.

(A large map)

(A zoom map)

I went to Tsukishima first then walked to Tsukuda. They are next to each other and you can walk from one place to another easily.

■Tsukishima
At the intersection near Tsukishima subway station

Old and new buildings co-exist in Tsukishima

Tsukishima street views

Tsukishima Monja Street. A food called Monja-yaki(もんじゃ焼き), similar to Okonomiyaki, is quite popular here. There are arrays of restaurants specializing in Monja-yaki.

A Monja-yaki restaurant

Just outside the Monja Street, there remains some old buildings. Although Tsukishima district survived Great Tokyo Air Raid of March 10, 1945, it suffered the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. Therefore, all of the buildings in Tsukishima are basicaly built after 1923.

Some 1950's old-fashioned shops still exist.

A traditional fruit and vegetable shop

Just off the main street, there still remains old buildings built after 1923.

There still remains century-old buildings in Tsukuda. It used to be a fishery port.

A local traditional grocery store. Kids are buying sweets after school.

One of the traditional Tsukudani(佃煮, shellfish boiled in sweetened soy sauce) shops in this district.
The name Tsukudani(佃煮) originated from this area.
This building remains intact since its opening in 1859.

Just a few steps away from the shop, you will see many super-modern buildings.

Tsukuda Park

Old and new buildings mix in Tsukuda

This is a relatively new apartment that appeared in the Hollywood movie "Babel". Chieko, the female protagonist of "Tokyo" chapter lived in this apartment. The shooting was done at the 32th floor of this apartment.

Apartment scene in the movie "Babel"

View from the 28th floor of the same apartment

Entrance

You might think that this district is super-modern from the movie. But it is not. Just on the opposite side of the street from the apartment, there still remain many old buildings including this traditional public bath.

You are welcome!
By the way, did you know that There is another Tsukuda(佃) in Osaka?

Actually, Tsukuda(佃) of Tokyo was first inhabited and founded by 33 immigrants and one Shinto priest from Tsukuda(佃) in Nishi-Yodogawa ward of Osaka.

Sumiyoshi Shrine (founded in 1646) was built by those Osakan immigrants and still the god of this area. Until recently, majority of local people in this area used to be descendants of Osakan immigrants.

Monja-yaki is a very old food, originating in Meiji Period(around year 1870).
It is said that Okonomiyaki and Takoyaki evolved from Monja-yaki and became available after 1945. So, it is natural Okonomiyaki is a more advanced and delicious form of Monja-yaki http://www.citydo.com/tako/columnx.html

Redevelopments for these areas were already in the pipeline before the games were in sight. Safety issues with the wooden houses after the Tohoku earthquake was the previous reason why the Chuo ward has been accelerating the redevelopments of this area.

The Olympics will only accelerate these plans, especially since there's already a clear upswing in sales for new apartments on islands in the bay this shortly after the announcement.