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Making flour torti llas is easier than you think I'd always heard that making flour tortillas by hand is pretty simple, but I'd never tried it until recently, when Fine Cooking decided to do a feature on quesadillas (see pp. 60-63). Here was the excuse I had been waiting for to give it a shot. Using various ingredient combinations, I tested several batches of tortillas before arriving at a recipe that made just what I was looking for: light and tender tortillas with soft, flaky layers. And you know what? They really are easy to make. Now, I'm not suggesting that you have to make your own tortillas to try our quesadillas, but if you do, be forewarned: Once you taste these and see for yourself how uncomplicated it is to make them, store-bought tortillas may not taste the same ever again. Handmade Flour Tortillas Yields eight 9- to 1 Q-inch tortillas. 9 ounces (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for kneading and rolling 1 teaspoon table salt V4 teaspoon baking powder V4 cup cold vegetable shortening or lard, cut into small pieces In a medium bowl, stir the flour, salt, and baking powder. Add the shortening or lard and cut it into the flour with a pastry blender or two table knives until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Stir in 2f3 cup warm water with a fork until a shaggy dough forms. onto [J Turn the dough out a floured surface and knead until smooth and soft, 3 to 4 minutes, reflouring the surface as necessary. After kneading, the dough shouldn't be very sticky. Portion the dough into eight equal pieces (about 2 ounces each) and shape each piece into a ball. balls � Cover the dough rest on the counter for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. When ready to cook the tortillas, heat a large (1 1- to 1 2-inch) dry cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until hot. Working with one ball of dough at a time (keep the remaining dough covered) and using just enough flour to prevent sticking, roll the dough into a 9- to 1 O-inch round. The dough should be so thin that you can vaguely see the pattern of your countertop through it, and it should be more or less circular, though an amoeba shape is fine, too. Peel the dough off the � loosely with plastic and let counter and lay it in the skillet or on the griddle. Cook until the tortilla bubbles and puffs and the bottom browns in spots, 45 to 60 seconds. gigantic bubbles form, pierce them so the tortilla cooks evenly. Flip with a spatula and cook until the second side gets brown in spots and any translucent, raw-looking areas become opaque, another 45 to 60 seconds. (If the tortillas � If any Make-ahead tips: Because they're not loaded with preservatives, these tortillas taste best when freshly made. They'll stay pliable as long as they're kept warm. Leftover tortillas may be frozen (let cool thoroughly first). Rewarm individual cooled or thawed tortillas on a griddle or skillet, or wrap several tortillas in foil and heat in a 350°F oven until warm and pliable, about 10 minutes. brown too quickly or start burning in spots, reduce the heat to medium low.) Transfer to a clean dishtowel and cover to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking and covering each tortilla as it's cooked. 74 FINE COOKING