DIAGNOSIS

REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

Removal Procedure

(It is recommended that you disconnect the negative battery terminal prior to
doing any work on the elecrical system of any car.)

Now, in some cases, the left instrument panel insulator might be in the way. If it
is, remove it before starting.

Locate the blower motor - you have to stick your head under the passenger
side dash to see it.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.

Remove the blower motor retaining screws.

Remove the blower motor and fan assembly.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower resistor.

Remove the blower resistor screws. Take note of the FAQ below. It is not uncommon for
this to be a ridiculously difficult task. Note that it's a 5.5 mm bolt, just to make things even
more difficult.

Remove the blower motor resistor.

Installation Procedure

Install the blower resistor. Tighten the screws to 1 N-m (9 lb in). Note that the torque spec comes from the
manual but you'll never get a torque wrench in there, nor is one needed. Make them snug and ensure you don't
over-tighten as they're just grabbing onto plastic. Same goes for the blower motor screws in step 3. Also note
that after going through hell trying to get the back screw out, I didn't bother putting it back in. I did this
on July 23rd, 2006. If the missing screw ever gives me any issues, I will post it up here.

Connect the electrical connector at the blower resistor

Install the blower motor and fan assembly. Tighten the blower motor screws to 5 N-m (44 lb in). If anyone is nearby,
it helps to have them hold up the motor as you put in the screws.

Connect the blower motor electrical connector.

Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

FAQ

What is the Blower Motor Resistor and how does it work?

The blower motor resistor is used to control the speed of the HVAC blower fan.
It reduces the current in order to slow down the fan motor. (I'm not an electrical
engineer - but I think that's about as simple an explanation as you can get).

One of the screws in the back is hard to get to. How do I get it out?

Persistance is key. I found that using a combination of a small ratchet and a
small wrench got the job done. It takes a while, but it works. Some have used
flexible ratchet/screwdriver extensions that can bend around to get it. Remove
that screw first before the easy one. That way the resistor won't drop with the
screw and be a further annoyance.

Can I just repair the damaged resistor?

Some have tried. Some have been successful. But this is not recommended. The
resistor is designed to be cooled by the airflow in the duct. Modification to
the resistor could result in unwanted heat - and possibly fire.

The replacement resistor is expensive! Can I get it anywhere else?

Some parts stores sell them. I know that Part Source in Canada has them, though
they wanted to charge me more than the GM dealer I go to. I paid around $30 CAD
for the part. If you're paying much more than that, I suggest you go elsewhere.
Note that I was told by one of the service advisors at the dealership that GM redesigned
the part with a coating on it to prevent corrosion. This may be reason enough to buy
the part from a dealer so you can hopefully prevent the need to do this again in a few
years.

Can I make my own resistor?

Not recommended - although many have tried. It is far easier (and safer) just to
fork out the cash and get the right part.

Special thanks to KenZ24 for the original write-up.

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