Yosemite a winter recreation wonderland after El Niño snowfall

The Ostrander Hut provides a destination for a 10-mile cross-country ski trek from Badger Pass in Yosemite National Park.

The Ostrander Hut provides a destination for a 10-mile cross-country ski trek from Badger Pass in Yosemite National Park.

Photo: Yosemite Conservancy

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When morning light illuminated Yosemite Valley this week, the upper tier of Yosemite Falls was a thin stream of silver, its edges cast in ice, and the first drop fell 1,400 feet to a jumble of boulders glazed in Arctic white. less

When morning light illuminated Yosemite Valley this week, the upper tier of Yosemite Falls was a thin stream of silver, its edges cast in ice, and the first drop fell 1,400 feet to a jumble of boulders glazed ... more

Photo: Yosemite Conservancy, Special To "The Chronicle

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A kid goes kerplunk as youngsters and adults alike ice skate at the outdoor rink in Yosemite Valley, the Curry Village Ice Rink.

A kid goes kerplunk as youngsters and adults alike ice skate at the outdoor rink in Yosemite Valley, the Curry Village Ice Rink.

Photo: Tom Stienstra, Tom Stienstra / The Chronicle

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The 9,449-foot Lembert Dome, with Tuolumne Meadows in the background, where 24 inches of snow last week has compressed and brought the snowpack here up to 4 feet across the high country for miles, with higher amounts on wind-driven slabs. less

The 9,449-foot Lembert Dome, with Tuolumne Meadows in the background, where 24 inches of snow last week has compressed and brought the snowpack here up to 4 feet across the high country for miles, with higher ... more

Photo: Laura Pilewski, National Park Service

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The view of Yosemite Valley this week with El Capitan in the foreground and Half Dome in background.

The view of Yosemite Valley this week with El Capitan in the foreground and Half Dome in background.

Photo: Yosemite Conservancy, Special To "The Chronicle

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Out of Badger Pass, Denese Welch Stienstra walks through Summit Valley with Yaxtrax on her hiking shoes for traction and ski poles for balance through Summit Valley after a few inches of snowfall. For a day trip, make the round trip from here to Dewey Point and the Yosemite Rim for world-class views. less

Out of Badger Pass, Denese Welch Stienstra walks through Summit Valley with Yaxtrax on her hiking shoes for traction and ski poles for balance through Summit Valley after a few inches of snowfall. For a day ... more

Photo: Tom Stienstra, The Chronicle

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You have to walk 1.4 miles up Glacier Point Road to begin the snowshoe trek to Dewey Point Trail, but the views are spectacular and make the trek well worth the effort.

You have to walk 1.4 miles up Glacier Point Road to begin the snowshoe trek to Dewey Point Trail, but the views are spectacular and make the trek well worth the effort.

Photo: Courtesy Photo, Delaware North/Badger Pass Mount

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Snowy peaks in Yosemite National Park.

Snowy peaks in Yosemite National Park.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Yosemite has a vibrant nature scene even during the winter season.

Yosemite has a vibrant nature scene even during the winter season.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Photos show Yosemite's beautiful snowy days:

A photo taken around mid November during the first snow of the season, according to Yosemite National Park's Instagram account.

Photos show Yosemite's beautiful snowy days:

A photo taken around mid November during the first snow of the season, according to Yosemite National Park's Instagram account.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Evergreen and auburn colors are a stark contrast to the snow covered ground and mountains.

Evergreen and auburn colors are a stark contrast to the snow covered ground and mountains.

Photo: NPS Photo

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The bright colors are punctuated by blue skies.

The bright colors are punctuated by blue skies.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Yosemite has multiple waterfalls throughout the park, and while it's best to see the waterfalls during spring once the snow melts, Yosemite Falls, shown here, typically flows throughout the year, the National Park Service writes. less

Yosemite has multiple waterfalls throughout the park, and while it's best to see the waterfalls during spring once the snow melts, Yosemite Falls, shown here, typically flows throughout the year, the National ... more

Photo: NPS Photo

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A snow hiker is shown making their way up a snow covered hill.

A snow hiker is shown making their way up a snow covered hill.

Photo: NPS Photo

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A chilly day in Yosemite.

A chilly day in Yosemite.

Photo: NPS Photo

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The south side Yosemite Valley is much colder during the winter due to the sun's position. As a result, intricate ice crystals form around the area.

The south side Yosemite Valley is much colder during the winter due to the sun's position. As a result, intricate ice crystals form around the area.

Photo: NPS Photo

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More snow covered peaks in Yosemite Valley.

More snow covered peaks in Yosemite Valley.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Yosemite seems peaceful in this chilly but serene photo of the park.

Yosemite seems peaceful in this chilly but serene photo of the park.

Photo: NPS Photo

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It's a winter wonderland in Yosemite after a blanket of fresh snow fell on the park.

It's a winter wonderland in Yosemite after a blanket of fresh snow fell on the park.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Hoarfrost at Yosemite National Park. Hoarfrost, like the one shown here, occurs when moisture in the air crosses with a subfreezing object. The reaction causes crystal formations like the one shown on this tree branch. less

Hoarfrost at Yosemite National Park. Hoarfrost, like the one shown here, occurs when moisture in the air crosses with a subfreezing object. The reaction causes crystal formations like the one shown on this tree ... more

Photo: NPS Photo

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The moon rises over Half Dome in Yosemite National Park.

The moon rises over Half Dome in Yosemite National Park.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Yosemite National Park during this year's Winter Solstice on December 22.

Yosemite National Park during this year's Winter Solstice on December 22.

Photo: NPS Photo

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Temperatures in Yosemite Valley are chilly from November through April but start warming up in May, and warmer temperatures last through October.

When morning light illuminated Yosemite Valley this week, the upper tier of Yosemite Falls was a thin stream of silver, its edges cast in ice, and the first drop fell 1,400 feet to a jumble of boulders glazed in Arctic white.

Meanwhile, in the snowbound backcountry, wilderness ranger Laura Pilewski provided a photo from 9,449-foot Lembert Dome, with Tuolumne Meadows in the background, where 24 inches of snow last week has compressed and brought the snow pack up to 4 feet across the high country for miles, with higher amounts on wind-driven slabs.

The return of winter has turned Yosemite National Park into a spectacle. It’s not only world-class beautiful, but there also is an array of recreation: photography, short walks, ice skating, snowshoe treks, downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, tubing, a terrain park for boarders and several options for wilderness travel. Lodging availability is the best of the year, both in the park and in the nearby towns of Mariposa, El Portal, Groveland and Fish Camp. Access is free to the park on Monday, Martin Luther King Jr. Day.

More by Tom Stienstra

Yosemite Falls: At dawn, Yosemite Falls is frozen, as if suspended in time. By mid-morning, you’ll see a wispy trickle framed in ice. From Yosemite Lodge at the falls, you only have to walk across the street for a spectacular view. My favorite view is from the meadow along South Side Drive near Yosemite Chapel.

Vernal Fall: From Happy Isles, it’s a short walk on the Mist Trail to a view of ice-bound 317-foot Vernal Fall, and the ambitious few can take the John Muir Trail up to a view of 594-foot Nevada Fall. Expect snow and ice. Note: The Mist Trail is closed from just above the footbridge at the junction with the John Muir Trail, to the brink of Vernal Fall. The John Muir Trail is closed higher up, from Clark Point to the top of Nevada Fall.

Yosemite “firefall”: This isn’t the old firefall in which a crew pushed a bonfire off Glacier Point. This “firefall” is when the sunset hits the ice at Horsetail Fall just right and then refracts in reds for about 15 minutes to make it look like it’s on fire. The phenomenon is best seen from the picnic area near the base of El Capitan (Northside Drive), with the best chance this year Feb. 25-28.

Ice skating: This is really fun with a friend or family, skating at the Curry Village Ice Rink, with cheap skate rentals, great views (I don’t care that I look like Frankenstein staggering around amid all the youngsters). The rink is at the Curry Village Recreation Center, near Shuttle Bus Stop No. 13A. $11 adults, $10 children, $4.50 skate rentals, helmets available free upon request, (209) 372-8319, www.yosemitepark.com/ice-skating.aspx.

Badger Pass downhill: It’s a small hill — four lifts, nine runs, with a vertical drop of only 800 feet. That’s why most fast, experienced skiers or boarders bypass the place. That’s also why it can be the best place to learn how to ski or board, or to get your legs back if you’ve been away for a few years. With 2 feet of fresh snow last week, snowpack is at 30 to 48 inches. All-day lift ticket, $48.50; beginner package with two lessons, gear, lift ticket, $82. Info: (209) 372-8430, ext. 5, www.yosemitepark.com/badgerpass.aspx.

Badger Pass Terrain Park: For the first time in years, there’s enough snow for two terrain parks with hills and mounds for jumps, rails and boxes. The upper park is for newcomers, and the lower park has bigger jumps. $25. Part of the Badger Pass Ski Area.

Badger Pass tubing hill: Most ski areas have surface lifts for groomed tubing hills with lanes. Safe and fun. This hill is open from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., and then again, after being groomed, from 2 to 4 p.m. $17. Part of the Badger Pass Ski Area.

Dewey Point snowshoeing: Your destination is 7,385-foot Dewey Point, perched on the south rim above Yosemite Valley. Directly across, 7,573-foot El Capitan rises up in a single monolith. To your right is Cathedral Spire, Taft Point and beyond to Half Dome and miles of wilderness. From Badger Pass, rent snowshoes (or bring your own) and walk up Glacier Point Road 1.4 miles (stay out of the tracks for cross-country skiers). At Summit Meadow, look for the signed winter trailheads for the Dewey Point Meadow Trail. Turn left there. The route is marked on trees as an 18 inside a gold triangle. From Glacier Point Road, the route is 2.5 miles to the junction with the Dewey Point Trail, and then it’s one more mile to the rim. 9.8-mile round trip. Badger Pass Nordic Center, snowshoe rentals, $24 full day, guided trips available, (209) 372-8444, www.yosemitemountaineering.com.

Ostrander Hut: 10-mile trip one way, Badger Pass to the rock cabin called the Ostrander Hut near Ostrander Lake. $35 per night Mondays through Thursdays, and $55 Fridays through Sundays. Discounts for members of the Yosemite Conservancy. Info and required reservations, (209) 379-5161 or at yosemiteconservancy.org — click on “Experience Yosemite” and on the left column “Ostrander Ski Hut.”

Tuolumne Meadows: In winter, Tuolumne Meadows is remote, quiet and world-renowned for the handful who trek there. Access is by cross-country skiing, heading in from the east side of Highway 120 and Tioga Pass out of Lee Vining. Tuolumne Ski Hut has 10 bunks, first come, first served, plenty of firewood, no electricity. Surface conditions are ideal this week, reports wilderness rangers Robert and Laura Pilewski. Wilderness Ranger Station (winter), (209) 372-0450 (leave message); Yosemite Wilderness Office, (209) 372-0740.

Highway 140/Arch Rock: Highway 140 goes through Mariposa, along the Merced River and through El Portal to the Arch Rock entrance (2,850 feet). A one-lane detour provides a bypass around a common rockslide area. To reach Yosemite Valley, you never climb above 4,000 feet.

Highway 120/Big Oak Flat: Highway 120 goes through Groveland to the Big Oak Flat entrance (with a turnoff available to Hetch Hetchy). To reach Yosemite Valley, you climb to 6,192 feet, and chains are often required in winter on this route.

Highway 41/southern entrance: Highway 41 splits off Highway 99 at Fresno and goes through Oakhurst and Fish Camp to the southern entrance of Yosemite near Wawona. To reach Yosemite Valley, you climb to 6,000 feet near the turnoff for Glacier Point Road/Badger Pass.