"Be showbiz divas! Girls who are sexy, flirtatious, dangerous, but most of all vampy and dramatic." Such were the instructions posted backstage at the Maria Grachvogel show for the girls about to step out on to the catwalk.

A tall order to a room full of exhausted models on the last day of London fashion week, perhaps. But it is amazing how quickly one becomes a convincing showbiz diva in a tightly corseted, crystal beaded strapless fishtail dress in feather-appliqued violet devore velvet.

The show opened not with a showbiz diva, however, but with a ballerina. In a white crystal-studded tutu and feather headpiece, Sarah McIlroy of the English National Ballet traversed the catwalk en pointe, scattering the catwalk with feathers as she went.

Feathers were to be a theme of the show. Grachvogel's forte is her show-stopping eveningwear, adored by the likes of Victoria Beckham, who modelled for the designer last February. True to form, on to the white featherbed catwalk stepped a succession of gowns destined for red carpet occasions.

The collection was inspired by the screen glamour of Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo. "They could be very androgynous and sleek, and then the next minute they'd be wearing the most fabulous dresses," the designer said. Simple, backless mini dresses of jet black sequins and a black satin plunge-necked "Marlene" dress had overtones of tuxedo dressing. Then the collection burst into colour, with a series of hand-painted, hand-appliqued dresses. These will be made individually in the designer's studio, but sold (for a handsome sum) in selected upscale stores.

In devore velvet and satin chiffon, featuring corset boning and wispy chiffon skirts, dresses came in pale green overlaid with gold lace, or chartreuse velvet with scarlet feathers at the shoulder. Feather corsages dangled from the models' wrists, while long feathery wisps trailed at the hems. Sipping champagne and striking their sexiest poses for the cameras, the models seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their diva role.

 Alexander McQueen, British fashion designer of the year, has announced that he will not be showing in London next season.

McQueen, who has shown in New York in the past, is to expand his business internationally now that he has signed a deal selling 51% of his company to Gucci. London's Conduit Street is currently the only McQueen shop, but there are plans to open stores in all the major fashion capitals. The departure of McQueen, whose show is a highlight of London fashion week, will make a serious dent in the city's fashion profile.

In an interview in Women's Wear Daily, McQueen also said that he planned to produce haute couture under his own name once his contract with Givenchy had run its course.