it's pretty much done, just need to buff and polish the clear coat. I did lots of plastic repair so I can help people with ?'s on this topic.

I'm a painter by trade, but I mostly restore homes. bikes is a side thing. anyways I am using the new PPG waterborne stuff for the base coat and using a 2 part urethane clear (Omni 2.1 mc262/mc267). love the waterbase paint, it's the best auto paint I've ever used.

for the plastic repairs I used this stuff: 3M 05895, Automix EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair Kit. it is amazing stuff. I learned a lot about plastic repair. and some evercoat polyflex plastic filler, for gouges and whatnot. that stuff is great, too. very strong, but you can bend it in half without it cracking once dry.

I even made my own peg/mounting boss thing(not sure what the proper term is) out of random materials and jb weld and attached it using the automix stuff. it's super strong!

here's what the bike looked like before:

here's the photoshopped plan:

between clear coats

here's one of the newest pics from the last clearcoat still in the spraybooth:

an example of the damage:

both sides are split at these corners

an example of a small crack, it ends where the drill hole is

the stuff:

both sides of the fairing had cracks in the top corners of the fairing where it curves around. to fix I drill holes and grind in grooves like stitches for the filler to sink into. so on top when it is sanded flush you are left with a good amount of product holding it together. on the back side it can be built up so this is unnecessary. on the crack on the flat section in the middle I grind in a v-shaped channel over the crack for the filler to sink in. drilling a small hole in the end of the crack stops the crack from spreading further.

fixin:

primed:

I also used the 'ding king' to pull a dent in the gas tank. I love this tool! it works great.

I fixed a tab first using the automix by digging channels, filling, etc. it held up great and even took a fall without snapping. after the fall I had to reattach another tab, which I did using another technique I learned about. I plastic welded it together w/ a soldering iron and then melted a piece of squiggly mechanic's wire into it for strength. this seems to have created a pretty strong bond. we'll see down the road if either fails...

the wire method:

here's both tabs, bottom one attached w/ automix.

I also attached that peg I made out of random stuff and jb weld w/ the automix. I stuck it on there with a bit of wire, then ground in grooves in the peg for the filler to sink in and hold it on better. I used a dremel sanding drum, filled it with the automix then wrapped it around the peg to make a base. it ended up being very strong, I can't pull it off.

hope this can be helpful to people doing plastic repairs. any ?'s just ask.

I actually dig this bike, it's fast and light. what else could you want?

my bike is a 71 cb750, but I'm redoin a bunch of stuff, will be a bit 'fore it's done. I have a cbr, too but I'll prob sell it to buy parts for the cb. so we'll both be riding this lil toughie for a bit.

yeah, I'm using a compressor 5hp. 26 gal. it does just fine for painting or even using a da sander. I'm using a harbor freight HVLP gun. it works fine as long as I keep it clean. obviously at some point I wanna get a better spray gun, but it works great for the price. (about $40 on sale) I used to have a good quality HVLP setup and it wasn't that much better. had to sell

Bre's workin late. I'm hand polishing the clear while watchin movies. I know that sounds crazy, but I'm waiting to get a lambswool attachment in the mail for the random orbital, and I just want to do some of it now so I can show her what it'll look like when done.

the duplicolor primer is great. I was gonna buy a quart can of primer to spray, but I decided to just use that stuff cuz I like it so much. I went through about 4 cans. they make a normal version at the auto parts store, it's nice but doesn't fill and sand as well, still good though. this is the pro version they sell at the car paint store. it's really easy to work with and hides imperfections very well.

as far as buffing clear- one tip is I've noticed- air power is not as constant as electric. I didn't want to actually buy a polisher cuz I have so many different sanders and crap that I figured I could make something work. I have a really nice dewalt random orbital sander with variable speed, I am going to use a lambswool attachment with that for most of it on the low setting. little stuff by hand. but I have used my air die grinder or a drill in the past, chucked up to a foam pad or foam buffing ball(mother's makes them, at the auto parts store, looks like a pom-pom or loofa) I have an awesome Mac tools die grinder, but I like the drill better, it gives you constant speed. the air tools get faster as you move away from the surface and can cause probs if they go too fast. never use a 'polisher' w/out variable speed. you want to go relatively slow. use a polish that says it's for clear coats. for the average person w/ average tools the drill/mother's ball combo works pretty well.

to start with though, you have to wet sand a bit, some people call it color sanding or color blocking. depending on how bad your finish is you can start with 600 grit or 1000 grit. I would only use 600 if it's really snotty or you have a run. it takes that much longer to polish out. use water w/ a drop of dish soap. try to use some type of backing pad for your paper. a sanding sponge if you have one, a sanding block(the rubber kind) maybe for flat areas or just a scrap of flat rubber. avoid edges/corners/pointy parts! you can go through em pretty fast and have to recoat. get the area wet that you're going to sand with a clean sponge/rag, whatev. go slow, make lil swirls. you'll see the surface dull and the low areas/craters will stay shiny, keep wet-wiping it down to get the muck off and avoid scratches from stuff gettin in there. your paper will last a lot longer if it stays a bit wet. it helps with the clogging. you can figure out ways to keep it cleaner and make it last longer. sometimes I use a putty knife or compressed air. when you see most of the shiny spots go away you can start workin your way down the sandpaper chain. use 1000, then 1500, finish with 2000. again be REALLY careful of edges/ridges/corners.

good for tight spots or when you don't want to use something else as a backing pad for some reason. take a sheet of sandpaper, or 1/2 , 1/4 sheet. fold it in half. use a putty knife or screwdriver handle or something to crease 1/2 of your fold, so just to the middle. tear the crease, just to the 1/2 way point. fold each side over the other so that every sanding side is facing a paper side, this way it stays in one piece and doesn't move around or fall apart as you're sanding. you end up with 2 surfaces and can refold to use the other 2.

here's some pics to show you what I mean. this sounds silly but it makes a huge dif compared to just folding a sheet of paper in 1/4s the normal way. and it gives you a nice little pad.

so , she's finally done. kinda. I still have to do the 'ninja' kanji on the sides and put on the bar-end mirrors. we got some really cool block offs from JDA custom. they are polished aluminum and say ex. cool! I just got leds for the asian cycle flush mounts in the front. cool because you can't see the bulbs. the signals have clear lenses so it looks nice and clean this way. I'll post a couple more pics after I put on the leds and the bar ends. and when I do the kanji bit.

You seemed like the one to ask. If someone wanted to, say, paint the headlight cover with the same color as the surrounding fairing to reshape it, how would they go about doing it? What if they wanted to extend the fairing color onto their windscreen a little too?

Like this...

Also, I see that you have fitted plates where the mirrors go. Are they custom?

That's what the previous-gen needs to look really nice... a paint job like yours, a non-square headlight, turn signals like yours, and something other than those stalky two-piece staggered mirror arms. Oh, and the fender eliminator like yours with a false cowl-line seat cover from CustomSeatCreations.

Is there a kind of "reflective undercoat" to reflect back in the light that hits the paint-covered portion of the headlight lens so it can be projected back out by the reflector?

You seemed like the one to ask. If someone wanted to, say, paint the headlight cover with the same color as the surrounding fairing to reshape it, how would they go about doing it? What if they wanted to extend the fairing color onto their windscreen a little too?

Like this...

Also, I see that you have fitted plates where the mirrors go. Are they custom?

That's what the previous-gen needs to look really nice... a paint job like yours, a non-square headlight, turn signals like yours, and something other than those stalky two-piece staggered mirror arms. Oh, and the fender eliminator like yours with a false cowl-line seat cover from CustomSeatCreations.

Is there a kind of "reflective undercoat" to reflect back in the light that hits the paint-covered portion of the headlight lens so it can be projected back out by the reflector?

we got bar end mirrors. I just put them on. I'll post some pics in a bit, I'm busy with other stuff for the next couple days. the mirror block off plates are from a place called JDA custom. they are on ebay under billetsportbikeparts. they look really nice and they can make custom stuff, too. polished aluminum!

you can paint anything if you prep it right. glass is definitely tricky, though. a rule of thumb is to think about the smoothness of the surface and if you put a sticker on it would it just peel right off or stick good. make sense? the surface needs to have 'teeth' for paint to grab onto and bond with. if it is too smooth it will just peel off. you can give a surface toothiness by sanding or using some kind of etching solution.

for your idea I would think about getting colored latex decal/sticker paper stuff. I think if you could stretch it a bit you could cover the headlight, then cut out the shape you like. if you really want to paint it you can but ask the guy at the paint store what kind of primer he suggests for glass. I'm not sure about that. or check online, someone has done it before. and if you want to do it short term, to see what it looks like- don't prep at all, just spray on paint and let it dry. you will see how easy it is to scrape it off afterwards.

as far as the windshield, just prep it like normal. it should paint just like the rest of the plastic. anything you paint you should scuff sand first. the prep work is 90% of painting. and it's what will make it last and look good.

use green or blue tape to make your lines (green is cleaner, blue stickier) and if you have curves like in your example then get 1/4" green tape to make the line. it's a lot easier. then use the wider stuff and masking paper to fill in the rest. push down your tape well along the edges.

there are a million other little tips, but it's stuff you learn from trial and error.