Brisa Cocina Mexicana

Houston White tablecloths and solicitous service are your first clues. And one look at the menu confirms it: Brisa is a step above the usual Mexican spot—and there’s no Tex-Mex. Sure, an enchilada or two makes an appearance, but how about queso cilantro, a block of Chihuahua cheese crusted with crushed chicharrones and fried, then topped with a roasted poblano-tomatillo sauce, cilantro, and sesame seeds? Or an inventive Queso Fajita, a wrapper of cheese stuffed with fajita meat, then topped with poblano-tomatillo sauce and a garnish of avocado pico de gallo? Even the sides are handled with loving care: The rice, beans, and guacamole are first-rate, as are the chips and the house-made salsas. And did we mention the margaritas? The owner is Diana Ramos, who used to own Habanero Blue, downtown. Welcome back. Bar. 5161 San Felipe (713-993-9899). Open Mon—Fri 11—10, Sat 1—10. Brunch Sun 10—3. $$—$$$ W+

Get the Magazine

We report on vital issues from politics to education, as well as being the indispensable authority on the Texas scene, covering everything from music to cultural events with insightful recommendations.