I would very surprised if the MY14's only charge to 13volts, I believe the MY14 still use an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery, the AGM battery needs to be charged @ 14.3v to get them fully charged, if your GC is only putting out 13v then your battery is going slowly flat.
Most modern vehicles use alternators that slowly ramp the volts up to full charge rate @14.5v, this can take up to 10 minutes.
Have you been able to have other MY14's checked?, our MY11 starts out at about 12.5v then ramps it up to 14.3v after about 5 to 7 minutes.
I would be having your dealer check with the jeep tech line what the charge rate should be, 13v is tool low to recharge an AGM battery after short driving (city) and your probably going to have electrical problems as the battery volts drop, modern vehicles do weird things with low voltage. I would guess you have a faulty charge regulator.
Paul

My MY2014 Laredo runs in the 14 volts range initially and then drops to 13.0 volts. So I suspect that's the way they work.

My MY2014 Laredo runs in the 14 volts range initially and then drops to 13.0 volts. So I suspect that's the way they work.

nrb1748

Thanks. Same as mine. I measured the voltage at the battery too.
Will see how we go but I suspect it just charges the battery as a variable charger would - changing the voltage depending on the requirement.

Thanks. Same as mine. I measured the voltage at the battery too.
Will see how we go but I suspect it just charges the battery as a variable charger would - changing the voltage depending on the requirement.

Sorry Andrew, it seems i misunderstood your posts, I took from them that your system wouldn't go above 13v and that's why your initially fitted isolator wouldn't cut in. Your present description reflects the way the system does work.
It may be interesting to see what the charge rate would ramp to if you placed a fair load on your system with the engine running....
You could try headlights on, radio, A/C on manual with fan on high, and turn the seat heating on.
That will surely cause your voltage regulator to compensate after a few minutes, and at least ease the mind as to whether it is doing the right thing by your battery.
John

Thanks. Same as mine. I measured the voltage at the battery too.
Will see how we go but I suspect it just charges the battery as a variable charger would - changing the voltage depending on the requirement.

This is the same way modern charge systems work, your other posts made it sound like the charge rate didn't go above 13v, if your charge system starts out @14v? Your original isolator should of cut in to charge the second bat, your problem was the cut out point was to high, but they are usually set at around 12-12.5v, do should not of been a problem with your @13v your GC was supplying

This is the same way modern charge systems work, your other posts made it sound like the charge rate didn't go above 13v, if your charge system starts out @14v? Your original isolator should of cut in to charge the second bat, your problem was the cut out point was to high, but they are usually set at around 12-12.5v, do should not of been a problem with your @13v your GC was supplying

Ok.
To be clear, my issue was the car generally does not go over 13 volts. Thus the isolator would go for hours and not cut in. I have seen it rise to 14 volts briefly on only one occasion (obviously I can't watch it all the time). I suspect it does this as and when it determines the battery needs it (unless I have a faulty regulator which has been suggested).
All good now following the installation of an isolator that cuts in at 13 v.
Will watch what happens to my battery and listen to the starting regime to seeing if it slowly goes flat.
Cheers
Andrew.

I've cross posted my reply from the other forum, just for information....
Pomdave, if you go here Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 - Interior trim removal you will see that on this page is a link to a .pdf file that shows trim removal information for a 2014 model. Also if you check the home page for the same site there's lots more other handy information to be browsed through.
I installed my P3 in our 2012 myself because I couldn't find anyone locally I was confident could do the job.
It wasn't difficult (you have to be reasonably handy and understand what you are doing though), but once the trim was removed it was a bit scary seeing the innards exposed. I made well sure to keep the missus away while it was opened up. I took the power supply (via a circuit breaker) and earth from the battery terminals under the drivers seat, and the brake switch supply from the stop light trailer wiring. That way there were no issues with conflict with the vehicle wiring.
Maybe if you printed out the trim removal info and took that to your installer of preference it may reduce any fears he may have about issues he may encounter. I've seen photos of a P3 in a 2014 cubby so it can certainly be done.
In the US this model gets a plug under the dash that a brake controller will connect to, but this doesn't exist on the export version we get.
Good luck
John

I had mine fitted by my local auto elec in the centre cubby.
They've done a good job but I had to take in the instructions for the removal of the cubby from wk2jeeps.com as they'd never done one before.
Depending on how far in Melb you want to travel can be a sticking point though.
I have used Lilydale Auto ElectricsAddress: 54 John St, Lilydale VIC 3140 Phone:(03) 9735 1461

I had provided the trim removal instructions and SNUKEs photos of the P2 in place, however they questioned the legality of the controller being inside the cubby, "because the display and the buttons can't be seen from the driving position" (due to the cubby lid in the open position)

I know, I know! I argued that you only need to get to the manual lever underneath it ... personally when braking, especially in an emergency situation I am not looking down to check the voltage that is being applied to the trailer brakes, but hey that was his position what can you do?

I don't think I'm game enough to attempt fitting myself, and hopefully I won't need to go all the way to Lillydale either (wrong side of town for me), I'm sure a solution will present itself, that's what I like about this forum you don't feel like you're on your own.

I was pretty sure I could see it in the cubby from the standard seating position when I took the pics, but I wasn’t trying to so it’s not a firm memory.
I am 195cm so the seat is all the way back giving a better viewing angle.

Do you actually need to see the controller anyway? Hell, do you even need to access the booster lever?
Once it is set up correctly it is basically forget it and concentrate on driving.
This may be different for off-road when are going slow and judging each section and maybe require to nearly lock up the trailer.
But in regular road driving, in an emergency situation I am not taking my eyes of the road or hands of the wheel.

Is there really a legal requirement to see it? I can barely see the non digital one we have on the Pajero in the usual place below the steering column near the transmission tunnel.