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Not sure if you were looking for used or new, but I bought a new 2017 Cub Cadet X1 GT50 mid-summer and love it. Saved a few bucks off MSRP since it was a showroom model and got a cover for it.
Plenty of power with the VTwin 25hp, handles the steep hills on .5 ac pretty well, automatic trans, mulching blades, comfy seat and tons of attachments are available. Also has an app for maintenance info, oil life, etc.
The reason I picked this one is that the trans is built to tow with, and I moved LOTS of gravel, QP and retaining wall stones with the fold up cart that Cub makes in the fall.
Off the top of my head, I think it was $2500.00 out the door, 3 bin bagger was $500.00 additional. The 2018 models are a few hundred more:
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/enduro-series-50-in-25hp-kohler-engine
I saw a youtube vid of the 3 stage snow thrower and snow cab in action, THAT looks like something I may do next year, especially if we have another winter like the one we are still going through LOL.

I think you'll like the Trex Rainescape drain system. Based on my experience with it, don't be stingy with the caulk or the tape along the seal points. Also, they make it look so much easier and prettier on the youtube vids than it actually is. It most likely will have dents and twists and a few high spots as you go. But, as long as it looks like a half pipe getting deeper as you move out to the funnels, then it should work as intended, I tested each bay as I went with a quart of water poured onto the trough at the house. It's easier to make modifications at that point.
BTW, that butyl tape is the stickiest shit on the planet, so watch where you lay it down as you are working. If the edge of the tape roll comes into contact with the trough material when you place it down, it will stick really good and require a good pull to get it off. I used a 18" piece of 2x6 PT over the joists as a lil' tape bench.
Good luck!

Agreed, closer can't hurt, and cost isn't that much different in the scheme of things to go 12" vs 16".
The current trex is a different design that the 1st gen trex. IIRC it's PVC wrapped composite today. Not sure if it is any stronger structurally though.
Malsua, you say it held up just fine, that's good to hear. When I was researching, I saw plenty of bad press and trex lawsuits for mold and wear, fade, etc. Scary stuff, and lots of squeaky wheels looking for grease I suppose. I did notice most of that was the original trex, however some people still bitched about the new stuff too.
So far, I like the way this line (transcend) is looking and holding up, although to be honest it has only been less than a year LOL.

Just curious, how many footings do you have Now? Was it the program that suggested 8 and you need more/less?
What do you mean about no overhangs, past the beam or on the short sides?
Joist size and span? like going up to a 2×10 vs 2×8 and make them longer?
As an aside, someone mentioned the spacing o.c. for composites. Just speaking for trex, 16" o.c. is acceptable for right angle layouts. I believe the o.c. was 12" if the pattern is diagonal or Herringbone. Not sure about other brands. I don't notice any sagging or bouncing at 16 o.c. horizontal pattern.

OUCH! Well, the silver lining is you get a new kitchen, right? That is next on my (wife's) list. LOL
My other neighbor's deck was pitched toward the house, and somebody got the bright idea to caulk all the spaces between the deck boards many moons ago. That ledger, and subsequent header inside the walls was completely rotted, and was a HUGE job to replace (empty foreclosure for 5+ years)
The old ledger on our deck wasn't terrible, but there was runoff under the slider and it rotted pretty much everything under it. The way I did the flashing this time was 6" under the siding, bent 90 degrees to run along the top of the joists about 3" from the house. Then you slide that trex membrane under the flashing, tape, caulk, etc. That way, nothing gets beneath it, runoff goes into the membrane. You need to go up that high behind the siding so there is no chance of blowback under the flashing in a noreaster or something. Worked on my deck, no drips on the ledger board.
During a downpour, it is kind of cool to look up and see the water flowing down to the funnels and going bye bye.

No kidding! I did the same thing LOL. Got mine from the stone/patio place on 23. Big blue stone pieces on pallets, then cut into manageable pieces and laid in QP/Stone dust vs cement. We used that polymeric stone dust for the seams, and it looks great! Beats the snot out of the hand poured asphalt that was there originally.
I am enclosing mine as storage, complete with garage door on the short side facing the yard. In order to do that, I needed an additional permit from Sussex County Health Dept to make sure I wasn't covering septic tanks, cleanouts, field, etc (I wasn't).
The trex drainage system is a tedious job, but kinda cool. It required sliding around on a sheet or two of plywood while looking down between the joists, I was 8' above grade, 30' cliff behind that. Then unrolling, tucking, cutting, stapling, caulking and taping then rinse/repeat for each bay. Probably a days work once everything was purchased and set up. It self pitches, and only needs to go out past the beam to be effective, then drains into a funnel in each bay that fits between the joists.
Here's a quick video link, these guys are in a shop, on the ground, makes it look SO easy LOL.
I am adding gutter/downspouts to redirect it out past the deck. It makes the deck work a little tougher, since you can't see the joists too well for clip placement, and one slip of the foot into a bay with the membrane installed means a repair or a redo. I was fortunate, and careful. After a few rows of deck boards go up, it gets way easier.
What's great about this system, versus the dry deck system is that the trex material unrolls OVER each joist, forms a half pipe as you go, and when all done the trex boards go OVER that. basically, after the taping and caulking and stapling is done correctly, no water gets past that, keeping the joists dry as a bone. The other systems allow water to drain past the deck boards, soak the joists, and drain out via a gutter system while making a nice ceiling.
I did notice a bit of a flaw in this system but not a huge deal. Condensation forms under the membrane (patio side) when it's cold on top and warmer below. I don't think that can be helped. Not that you'll be hanging out on the patio in 30 degree weather too often, but it is something I noticed this winter. During a rain storm, I can stand under the deck and be completely dry. Yesterday, some of the condensation was dripping on to the floor. No flood, but a few damp spots here and there. I'll probably put in a ceiling of PVC bead board or something, and that, with the airflow from the rim joist inward, should keep any moisture at bay. For the walls that I framed in, most likely cement board or mold resistant sheet rock.

Yep, agreed. It is one of those things that you don't want to get half way through and find out you something is not up to code and start over. I asked a lot of questions, one being what the most common reason was for failing inspection. The answer I got was commonly stairs and railings not up to code, but you name it, they've seen it LOL. The town had a short and sweet 2 pager of deck code in the permit application rack. Off the top of my head, it had requirements for joists, stairs, railings, etc.
The trex railing kits come out right on the money with their jigs, I'm sure the other plug and play railing kits do as well. Speaking of railings, the Trex and Azek brands both have a top mount bracketed metal "4x4" railing post that are super-duty level. They are about 120 per, plus hardware. I went with PT 4x4's since the lighting and drainage already were causing mission creep, and it was done with the framing job.
The contractors handled the footings and framework, since that was a step or three above my pay grade. I hung out with them and learned quite a bit (how they square up the deck, flashing, beams, posts, etc.) If I had to build another, and I do!, I would still hire someone who could do the framing, and do the decking/rails myself, in trex LOL.
Jack, what do you plan on doing underneath the deck, and have you looked into drainage systems yet?

The deck we ripped off was about 25 years old, 100% PT. My guess is that it wasn't taken care of too diligently and time took its toll. Nail pops were bad, barefoot was a no go.
Judging from how it looked after that long, and what would be required to maintain, and ultimately replace in 20 or so years factored in to my decision to use trex. Maintenance free except for a power wash once a year.
Funny you bring that up w2mc, i had the same chat with my neighbor who is replacing his this year. I said I would rather bite the bullet now if it means no maintenance and shoes once in a while. He said he'd rather save the money and bonus was he could be barefoot. The sealing and maintenance was no big deal he said.
So, I told him I'll sit on my deck in shoes and watch him waterseal his deck barefoot lol!
It's all good, I love having a deck, no matter what it's made of!

Just did mine last summer in trex transcend. Your price in the 7-9k range for materials is pretty close. My 12×20 was about 11k in materials including lights stairs and drainage system. Includes the wood and brackets as well.
You can draw out a complete deck plan on the trex.com site for free. I used that for the permit in Vernon. Pretty cool system, you design it all online, add stairs, railings, add lights, swap colors, etc. When done, get 10 page pdf with material list, 3d image, etc via email.
Had a contractor frame it out and lay the footings, I did everything from the joists North including railings and cap and stair lights (12v plug, no electric permit needed since we had an outdoor outlet already).
The trex transcend is about 90 bucks a 20' board at the place on 23 you mention. The max length is 20', so consider a 2 row picture frame layout. It looks nice, allows you to use the 20' lengths but cut a foot or so off each edge so its square. You do need to build a ladder type PT frame under the end joists for support, but then the layout is easy.
I did the grooved boards with the trex clips. The clips alone will be a few hundred bucks.
I did the trex drain system as well. Pretty slick system, adds about 1000 in materials with trough material, funnels, tape caulk, staples, etc.
The railings are simple, the trex layout designer tells you how many sections are needed and what to buy. And plenty of you tube videos were helpful.
I disagree about the trex getting to hot to walk on. It gets warm sure, but a pair of boat shoes or flip flops on those blazing hot days is an option. On an average summer day it's not bad. 100 degrees in direct sun, yeah it, as most composites and even PT wood, will roast your tootsies!
Worth every penny not to have to stain, seal, etc every few years.
Good luck

+1 on the Ryobi line. It's 40V, and does everything I need it to do (1/2 acre). I also have the leaf blower, cultivator and pole saw. All work off the same power head (except the blower). They also make 40V lawn mowers, snow blowers, edgers and hedge trimmers, plus a few other things that work off the same power head and/or battery.
Just used the cultivator to turn over the soil in the garden a few weeks ago, that was sweet!
Nice part about the Expand-it line is that you could use their gas OR electric powerhead, it just clamps right up to the accessories. I am really liking the electric though...
Get the weed wacker that has the battery, charger and powerhead, then just add the "tools" only on the other stuff. I bought a spare battery and charger for about $140.00, so when one dies, I just swap it out and continue workin' :)
Home depot and Amazon is where I purchased.
https://www.ryobitools.com/outdoor/products/list/family/40v?page=1
GL!
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This is what I did for out 8500 watt portable genny when we had the service upgraded to 200amps a few years ago. The 30 amp wire goes directly to the fuse box, and is wired to a circuit breaker just under and to the right of the main breaker. In order not to fry the poor bastard working on a pole a mile down the road, we installed an interlock kit. This makes it so the genny absolutely cannot be connected to the panel with the main breaker on, either one or the other is working.
LOVE this setup. Basically I can power the whole house, and not have to worry about flipping breakers for certain living areas at certain times of the day or night when the power goes out. When the power comes back on, I just shut off the genny, unplug the 30 amp plug, flip the genny breaker off and the main back on. Easy and simple.
I also believe, and any electricians can correct me, that this is code (to have an interlock switch). The inspector told me that he would not have signed off on the panel if the interlock wasn't installed. The interlock parts cost about $150.00 plus another $75 for home wire (10g orange), plug and reepticle on the side of the house. Took about 30-60 min to wire it all up and install everything. I don't have any gauges or load balancers yet, but I do have one I may install this spring in a box, right under my to do list LOL.
Good luck!

Wow, cool thread!
For me, mustard and kraut and onions, or "all the way" fried dog (mustard, onions and chili sauce, think Johnny and Hanges or Hot Grill), or mustard relish on a ripper at Ruts Hut.
Wife likes katsup and relish...opposites DO attract! LOL
I agree with HBecwithFn7's point, some people have a physical aversion to some flavors, spices or ingredients/condiments, myself included. I just can't tolerate really crazy hot stuff, like chili's/jalapenos, gobs of tabasco, many of the spicy aioli's, layers of hot pepper flakes, etc.
A little is OK, but I have noticed many chefs use them abundantly in their cooking these days. I travel frequently and eat out a lot when I do, and have been to many restaurants from 5 star places to 1 star local dives.
I don't have a problem anymore asking for a dish on the menu to be made without the "fire-branded imported chili aioli sauce" or "slathered in a crafty mix of chipotle, Thai spices, angry onion and jalapeno mayo" if possible. Most places are happy to oblige and if asked I simply say that spicy stuff just bothers my mouth something awful, which is true. I am a spice wus! Many wait staff will tell me if a dish is overly spiced or very hot.
However I have come across some places that employ the chef-Nazi, and are insulted that I request an alteration to their culinary creations. I have left one or two restaurants because the chef has come out and questioned my order. One dude, who was highly insulted that I asked for his garnishings to be put on the side (just in case) wanted to chastise me in front of a room full of people. Whatadick!
Yeah, some would say high maintenance. At this point in my life I look at it this way. If I am going to pay $30 - $50 for a meal, then I would like something that I will enjoy. One bite of something too overpoweringly spicy for me can actually ruin the whole night by the time I recover.
I usually go with a grilled steak, veal chop or chicken dish, salt and pepper, or broiled seafood with butter and lemon. Simple pleasures. I do enjoy a mild buffalo wing now and again though.
PS - LOVE a good cheeseburger, and for that I use Katsup!

I went out on Sun with my boy. Didn't catch squat in the waywayonda river (brook) but had some quality time in the sun.
Where the hell is paulinskill river by the way? The shitty directions on the njdfgw site put me in some industrial zone in Sparta...it looked like they stocked about 8k fish preseason in the river