Maybe people are wondering what you're trying to achieve by altering the dimensions before they pipe up with their thoughts?

If it's a case of increasing the gain of the enclosure, trying to accommodate larger drivers or maybe restrictions on space available for the enclosure then fair enough.

In my case I posted a request for thoughts on extending the horn by folding it back over the top surface of the enclosure to increase the lower reach and possibly extra output.....at the end of the day just build it and see.....I've got half an inch of mdf dust on my garage floor so it's happening here.....wife says she'll bury me in the thing though as I've already built umpteen speaker boxes and what was wrong with those?

My current box, a 32x36 WO made from 2x12's is LOUD. Not metered, because I wasn't able to afford it at the time. Now I'm doing VERY well for myself, and want something more. I compete in the local shows (when I have the $$) and intend on winning.

Those 2 10's in a 32x36 (which is probably more like 26x30 after thickness of wood is subtracted) make the cd player skip and do your breathing for you.

Just looking for opinions/facts before I go dedicating that much wood/time, especially in 30º weather.

My 02 after building a few WO's is that while they are different than your average box you'll still see some of the same effects of size in relation to tuning etc.

For a car SPL comp I don't know if you'd want to tune them very low at all, so a larger box might not be necessary. Other than building several and trying them out I don't know what to tell you.

I've made em for 10's 8's and 12's and did it the same way each time. I took steves design as a reference and then scaled them up based on a percentage of cone area. Many people just look at is as a 12" sub is 2" bigger than a ten. But it's a bit more complicated than that. So far in life I've found that ratios and percentages are far more accurate when replicating something with predictability than half-baked math.

So for my 12's box it was something like 45" wide (can't really remember now). You want to scale in all directions not just one. As a generality I think a sub with a higher fs would suit you better and would lend it self to being louder in a smaller box. If you were making a home theater sub I'd pick something with a lower fs.

If you find a good frequency in your car you could really make the thing loud by tuning a few PR's to the sealed section of the WO. Checkout TC sounds new products, they're called AudioPulse. tcsounds.com I wound't port it bc a PR overs so many advantages, heck even if you find it doesn't work you can still seal it up and make it look okay, but if you've made a panel port you don't have this option.

Good luck man.

I've been thinking about doing a WO with a pair of 15" high eff pro audio type speaks for a HT I think that would rock.