All Points Lead to North 44

For years, Toronto’s North 44 has been a go-to restaurant for special-occasion dinners and a magnet for the city’s Big Money set.

It had been about seven years since I’d eaten there, so it was high time I visited, to see what they were up to.

Under chef Sash Simpson and his kitchen brigade, all is well.

Addictive house-made breadsticks were followed by some top-notch apps: intensely flavoured lobster bisque – with a perfect consistency and not cloyingly creamy, as some can be – was studded with huge chunks of tender lobster.