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So currently, I don't own a race wheel set. I have a set of Fulcrum Zero's, and have been borrowing a friends old Powertap rear wheel, built up as a training wheel, with an Open Pro (boat anchor). I've really got into training with power, and would like to continue to do so.

I've been racing probably once every 2-3 weeks lately, and that is set to continue for another 6 months, or so.

So here's what I've come up with. If I want power when I train and race, so ideally I need power cranks, but a) I use 180mm cranks, and b) I'm using Campy. Those combined complicate things.

Because of that, the best solution I've come up with is the following:

Enve 3.4 SES clincher, with a Powertap G3, and Alchemy ELF front hub (or similar). It looks like it could get those build up to be a touch under 1500g. Clearly not 'race light' but not too bad considering 35mm/45mm and a powertap thrown in.

So this wheelset will essentially be used between 12-16 hours a week, almost all year long (no real winter in Australia!)

What do we think, does this make sense? Should i forget power and get a proper set of race wheels? Should spend my life savings on a Campy SRM + Bora Ultras?!

While I think I would prefer SRM or Quarq over Powertap, I'm not sure the former two are definitely more reliable and lighter. All the powermeters have had reliability issues. The new G3C Powertap is exceptionally light and has better dimensions for wheelbuilding than the old ones, but still can't be calibrated at home.

I'm sure you'll be happy with any of the choices discussed but FFS don't get Boras.... yesterday's aerodynamics at a vast price.

I bought a set of Reynolds DV46 Tubulars, then pulled the rear hub and replaced it with a powertap. The wheelset comes in around 1300 grams and has been my every day wheelset for the last year and a half ... maybe 10,000 kms. No issues, it has been bombproof with the exception of one broken spoke so far (i weigh about 185).

Re: getting power based cranks. I want to stick with 180mm, the options aren't great. There is no Quarq option, Power2max isn't an attractive option to me, and SRM, there is DA7900 in 180, but im not putting them on a campy bike, and I havent seen any evidence of a 180mm Campy SRM, which really is almost besides the point. The Campy SRM is just too expensive for me.

Which as you can see, is why im looking at the power tap option. I realise its not the 'best' or the more 'pro' option, but i figured with the new lighter G3 generation powetaps, i could build a pretty light round wheelset.

Thanks for the input Colnago68, but with conditions of the roads around the place (glass etc), I can't bring myself to train on tubulars.

I'd also consider 303s. The aerodynamic differences between them and the 3.4s are negligible. I just noticed that there's a 115g penalty when comparing the clinchers though. Zipp has a slight weight advantage on tubulars. http://www.enve.com/cache/DOC126_Web_Ae ... 0606083437

Tokyo Drifter wrote:Crank based power meters are more reliable, lighter and can be used with any wheelset.....

Reliability is debatable. Weight is not. PowerTap G3 is a lighter addition to your bike. Its 325 grams for the hub. G3 ceramic is even lighter if you have extra cash laying around and you're struggling to find a way to spend it. G3 compared to a dura-ace hub, you're maybe adding 50 grams for a power meter. G3 compared to a ZIPP hub, you're adding maybe 140 grams. With a Red Quark vs. Red Standard crank you're adding around 170 grams. With a Red SRM you're adding around 230g compared to Red Standard.

Last edited by JBrown on Thu May 10, 2012 2:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.