Landscape: Restaurant review

Sep 19, 2017 6:29am

Address

23 Hunter StHobart, TAS

Hours

Dinner daily 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $20-$26M $32-$60D $14-$20

REVIEW

When the wine list comes with a table of contents and the waitress acts out the backstory of your dinner's cooking fuel, it's fair to expect a lot of words with your food. Luckily, the meal speaks for itself. The marquee dishes are meat plus smoke. A bell jar adds theatre to an elegant smoked beef tartare, while steak seared over the coals of old port, sherry and bourbon casks is rich and fumy enough to evoke a smoky bar from a smokier time. But it's not just about the meat. Oysters come with a luminous cucumber and gin sorbet pearl that leaves a lusciously cool tang on the tongue, and wood-fired flathead served with lemon and Café de Paris butter is perfectly simple. Well-judged sides (duck fat chips!) work well across the menu, and if the wine list has you wishing for a digest version, trust the calm and professional sommelier. Landscape may be the in-house restaurant of the Henry Jones Hotel, but it deserves to be visited from much further afield.

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide2018 Top 100 Rank - #97Food: ★Wine: ★ ★ ★Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.