Description

P1 (10c, 18 bolts)Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.

P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.

P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner. P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.

P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.

Location

The route starts just uphill from the pillar that sits on the right half of Big Horn Wall and climbs a reddish wall continuing through a break in the prominent roof system. The route stays shady even in summer.

DESCENT Rap the route with 6 35m raps.

Protection

70m rope

Gear to #4 Camalot, extra #1-3s (nuts not necessary). Note: If you use the alternate belay for P3 you'll use up a #2. The next pitch is fairly sustained #2s and #3s so if you're not solid at that size consider triples.

Nice route that gets some killer air under your feet! The first pitch is still a bit gritty with some loose holds which made it feel a little serious; it's well protected and should clean up with some more traffic. A single rack to .75 camalot, with doubles to #3, would be a great rack, the #4 got placed on P4 but wasn't necessary. Anyone know about the older-style 1/4" bolts on the route?

Climbed this today. Pitch 1 is definitely cleaning up. It's long. On pitch 3, the bushy ledge is a much better place to finish than the bolted anchor, but there's still some loose rock on the ledge and in the start of the corner above, take care if there are parties below. I second Neil's comments on the rack.