July 25, 2017

Lace on My Clothes & Bows on My Caps

"'I wonder if I shall ever be happy enough to have real lace on my clothes, and bows on my caps?' said Meg impatiently." - Little Women by Louisa May Alcott

A mid-century fancy dress cap.

Getting back into the swing of sewing, today's blog post details the construction of a mid-19th century fancy dress cap. For as long as I can remember, I have been intrigued by these frilly, lace and beribboned confections, so I set to make my own for the May challenge of the Historical Sew Monthly. I am just getting around to writing about it now...better late than never?

Historical Inspiration

When it comes to informal and formal caps during the mid-19th century, there seems to be an abundance of terms used in periodicals, plates and extant identifications. From "morning" to "breakfast," "day" and "evening," "fancy," "dress" and even "fancy dress" caps, there was a style and term for every occasion. Other specific references include "widow's caps," "Marie Stuart" and general "house caps." In fact, Heather Sheen of the blog Southern Creations wrote a nice article on Ladies' Caps of the Civil War. I was drawn to the extravagant dress caps, much like those offered by Originals by Kay.

Full and evening dress caps appear in many period sources including this fashion plate from the September 15, 1860 edition of La Mode Illustree:

"'Annie Moffat has blue and pink bows on her nightcaps. Would you put some on mine?' [Meg] asked, as Beth brought up a pile of snowy muslin's, fresh from Hannah's hands.

'No, I wouldn't, for the smart caps won't match the plain gowns without any trimming on them. Poor folks shouldn't rig,' said Jo decidedly.

'I wonder if I shall ever be happy enough to have real lace on my clothes, and bows on my caps?' said Meg impatiently.

'You said the other day that you'd be perfectly happy if you could only go to Annie Moffat's,' observed Beth in her quiet way.

'So I did! Well, I am happy, and I won't fret, but it does seem as if the more one gets the more one wants, doesn't it?'"

- Little Women by Louisa May Alcott

Side.

Another of view from the side.

The other side.

Back.

Historical Sew Monthly Entry Details

May and July HSM entry - an 1860s fancy dress cap.

The Challenge: The dress cap was originally intended for the May: Literature Challenge – The written word has commemorated and immortalised fashions for centuries, from the ‘gleaming’ clothes that Trojans wore before the war, to Desdemona’s handkerchief, ‘spotted with strawberries’, to Meg in Belle Moffat’s borrowed ballgown, and Anne’s longed for puffed sleeves. In this challenge make something inspired by literature: whether you recreate a garment or accessory mentioned in a book, poem or play, or dress your favourite historical literary character as you imagine them.
My entry pays homage to Louisa May Alcott's Little Women. Inspired by both Meg's desire "to have real lace on [her] clothes, and bows on [her] caps," as well as Annie Moffat's "blue and pink bows on her nightcaps," from Chapter Nine: "Meg Goes to Vanity Fair," my dress cap could have been sported by a refined woman like Mrs. Moffat or other elegant, wealthy company.

My entry also fits in the July: Fashion Plate Challenge – Make an outfit inspired by a fashion plate, whether it is a direct replica, or a more toned down version that fits the resources and lifestyle of the character you are portraying. If you want to stick to a period prior to the 17th century advent of fashion plates, either re-interpret a Victorian ‘historical’ fashion illustration as period accurate, or use an image from your period that depicts and idealised and aspirational fashion.

It resembles fancy dress caps like this one from an 1854 Le Moniteur de la Mode fashion plate:

Dress cap with side frills and back lappets.Le Moniteur de la Mode, 1854.
(Image via: Pinterest)

Material: Buckram, net, point d'esprit, lace and navy, satin ribbon.Pattern: My own, based on period inspiration.Year: 1850s-1860sNotions: Millinery wire, black and white thread of various weights.How historically accurate is it? The shape and decorations were based on period examples, though the materials contain some polyester. It is also completely hand stitched. I believe it would be recognizable in its time period, so, 75%?Hours to complete: Too many! It was quite a fiddly project, though I look forward to further experimentation with net caps!First worn: For pictures.Total cost: If I had to guess, maybe $25 for all of the materials?

Photograph courtesy of Maria M.

Recommended Resources:

Ladies' Caps of the Civil War - an excellent article written by Heather Sheen of the blog, Southern Creations, which offers detailed descriptions of "breakfast," "day" and "evening" caps.

Originals by Kay - a one stop shop for any and all kinds of hairnets, informal and formal caps, and evening coiffures!

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About the Sewphisticate

Needle and thread never far from hand, Anneliese is a seamstress, blogger and 19th-century living history interpreter at the Genesee Country Village & Museum. She pursues her passions for history and its clothing through costume construction and documents this journey, here, at the Young Sewphisticate.

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Why Sew by Hand?

Mission Statement

Perhaps it was the lavish gowns of period dramas, or the treasure trove of costumes at my local community theaters, or even the well-used dress up box of Grandma’s vintage, 1960s housedresses that inspired my love for historical costumes. Whatever the source, I have been captivated ever since by history and its clothing. I only hope that by sharing my passions, I will inspire others to the same appreciation for and interest in exploring clothing as a way of self-expression, social communication and a bridge to interactions of the past.

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"Anneliese sews beautiful costumes, and often blogs the whole process from concept sketch through completed ensemble." - Chelsea of a Sartorial Statement

"I get excited every time a new post from Anneliese appears in my inbox. She makes fun theatrical costumes and beautiful clothing from the mid-19th c. (and she has a knack for pattern mixing that can always make me smile!)" - Hannah of Fabric & Fiction

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2015 Take Back Halloween! Costume Contest - Winner of Best Queen

"This exquisite costume began life as a discarded 80s prom dress, which Anneliese transformed into queenly attire in a matter of hours the weekend before Halloween...her talent, skill, and eye for balance and detail are superb." - Suzanne Scoggins of Take Back Halloween!

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The pictures and text displayed here are the original creations of The Young Sewphisticate unless directly stated. If there is an image appearing on this blog that belongs to you and do not wish for it to be shared here, please let me know and said image will be removed immediately. Copying without leaving credit or obtaining permission is not appreciated. Thank you!