“Is that a condition or a dog?”, asked the husband of one of my seminar participants when she told him I had a ‘Japanese chin.’ I never met the man, but I his response still make me laugh.

Ch and OTCh Makami Kiwi was retired in 1991 at the age of 4. Here’s the backstory: In 1987, I searched for a toy breed and chose the Japanese Chin because there had never been a UD Chin, and achieving a “first” held great appeal. Far as I know, Kiwi is the first and only dog of any breed UD to go on to earn an OTCh.

Mary Bransford of Wichita is noteworthy for being the only breeder to give me the time of day. Hopefully that’s changed, but in the 1980’s Chin breeders were inexplicably arrogant. Mary sold me a top-notch bitch for a rock bottom price and was our biggest fan.

Kiwi wasn’t a natural obedience performer but she was sweet and I LOVED working her. Because I miss her so, I hesitate to own another Chin; it wouldn’t be fair to compare a predicessor to Kiwi despite my affection for the Japanese Chin. That would be the breed, not the mythical condition.

All were High in Trial winners and competed when jumps were set at one and half times the dog’s height at the shoulder.

Since they are long dead, I’m eager to canonize these three flawless OTCHs. In the interest of full disclosure though, in future blogs I will share facts about Digger’s, Shaker’s and Kiwi’s strengths, and what I did to reduce and modify their weaknesses. You can also look forward to seeing never before published, mediocre at best, photos.

The toughest dog I ever trained though was my briard CH Prix Weaselle D’occasian UD. This too deserves a separate entry. While I’m at it, I think I need to talk a little about Tess (Siberian husky) and Huzzi Bear (Australian Cattle Dog), my first American and Canadian UDs.

Amy’s American Staffordshire Terrier, CH and OTCh Fraja Earth Shaker

A lot of people decide on a breed thanks to the passion of people they respect. That’s exactly why I got Shaker. One of my mentors, Bill Koehler, spoke so highly of their character and tractability, I couldn’t ignore the endorsement and bought one from my friend (and future co-author of Dual Ring Dog), Jacqueline Fraser.

Jackie said she had a plain bitch puppy. At the time, I thought that was an unkind description but later discovered “plain” refers to a lack of white markings, whereas “flashy” dogs have plenty of white (think of the classic boxer markings and you get the idea).

Shaker was a little skiddish, a lot lazy, and a very average competitor in obedience and conformation. Because I worked hard and proofed her in every condition, Shaker finished her OTCH by age 4 or 5 with multiple High in Trials. She was a dependable performer, under the most unfavorable conditions without a warm-up (this was important since I had three dogs competing in 6-7 rings).

Even though I readily admitted Shaker was not a remarkable American Staffordshire Terrier, I was very fond of her and appreciative of her work given her limited potential. I believe those feelings were amplified thanks to the politics of the time: It was the 1980s and the first wave of municipalities were attempting to ban ownership of the bully breeds. Along with other members of the Wisconsin Dog Federation, I was very active in fighting bad legislation in Milwaukee. I shed a lot of tears as a feared losing the right to own, train, and show this stellar breed. I’m disheartened these battles are still being waged, but that is the subject for another post.

I learned the value of using lines early and often as a goof-proof communication tool. My dogs earned titles quickly, rarely failed, and earned admirable scores regardless of their breed or background I insist my students use them, too. I know they can be a “pain” — but not NEARLY as painful as NOT using them. Lines communicate and built trust and confidence.

City Dogs

City dwellers face a number of unique challenges in raising hyper dogs.

Perhaps the most obvious is the sheer volume of everything – people, dogs, cats, traffic, noises, smells, stairs, elevators, bikes, wheelchairs, towering structures, metal-girded holes in the pavement, flag-festooned festivals and over-imbibing partiers, and not a whole lot of room to burn off their energy.

On the one hand, you want your hyper dog to take kindly to all these people, places and things, so she can enjoy the mental stimulation and emotional highs of interacting with lots of different people and dogs. On the other hand, you want her to have a fear of some of them – especially the exteriors of cars, vans and trucks on the move. And above all you need her to have a healthy respect for you and whatever commands you might choose to give her.

In all cases, the solution is solid obedience training (pages 33 – 74).

For me and my hyper dogs, every step of every outing is a chance to practice obedience. When I am unlocking my bike or taking out garbage, carrying in groceries or lugging around laundry, we are

City Dogs pit bulls

always practicing tasks like sit-stays and heeling on a loose leash. And in fact one of the best things about city living is the wealth of distractions that are readily available – distractions that can be used to teach our hyper dogs to obey us no matter what temptations may arise. Training amidst distractions is absolutely crucial to achieving one-command control; and if you live in the city, you won’t have to go far to find them.

There are drawbacks to owning a dog of any temperament in the city, of course. To deal with them, you’ll need to be vigilant. For instance:

You have to be on the alert at all times, keeping an eye out for everything from traffic to creatures, human and otherwise, who would do your dog harm.

You have to make sure your dog is properly socialized, so she’s never a threat to others.

For your own safety when you’re carrying loads up and down stairs, you need her to walk politely on a slack lead.

Because of the volume of sensory data bombarding us in urban areas, phobias may be slightly more prevalent in city dogs.

Still, a hyper dog — one who’s eager to share your urban experiences — is the perfect companion for a city dweller.

###

Solutions in a “New York Minute”

Dog owners have a wide variety of behavior concerns, so you may be wondering if Amy Ammen can help. The answer is YES! I offer customized private consultations, workshops, and group classes. I specialize in solving an extensive array of behavior problems including:

Don’t Let Fido’s Phobias Sour Celebrations

City Dogs

If your dog is traumatized by fireworks or any of the other noises – from sirens to motorcycles, screaming children to chain saws – take heart: There is a solution, according to Amy Ammen, nationally known dog-behavior expert and author of Hip Ideas for Hyper Dogs (Wiley).
“The solution is counterintuitive,” said Ammen, “and it stems from people trying to do the right thing – and failing. The fact is, an owner’s best instinct may actually be killing his canine’s confidence.”
The primary problem Ammen encounters in working with fearful dogs is clients coddling and reassuring the animals in stressful situations.
“The result of such coddling is just the opposite. Instead of calming the dog, it actually rewards him for fearful behavior and entrenches the fear.”
Fortunately, giving such a dog the courage he needs to face such traumas is usually easier than one might think, she said. Here’s the scoop.
“First, remain calm, relaxed, and unemotional even in the face of this incredible danger that he’s detected. Second, use basic obedience commands to get him focused on you instead of on the source of his fear. And third, distract him with happy talk and treats.”
Ammen provided these tips for overcoming canine phobias:

When you know that you’ll be facing a potentially frightening situation, you can prepare for it ahead of time, Ammen said. “Take him to class, establish basic skills, intentionally induce anxiety-provoking situations, and apply the skills you’ve learned together.”
For additional strategies for squelching phobias, Ammen suggests consulting Hip Ideas for Hyper Dogs.

###

Urban Dogs – Uber Awesome!

My first dozen-plus dogs, and myself, were born and raised in the rural midwest. That all changed in 1990 when I moved to downtown Milwaukee. I am a dog trainer by profession* and one day made an abrupt, and frighting, decision to kiss the country goodbye. I packed up the dogs and moved to Warren Avenue. Although I was attracted by the city, I was apprehensive about how my dogs, despite being trained and socialized, would acclimate. Would stray dogs endanger them on walks? Would they be unsettled by booming fireworks throughout the festival season? Would the stress of having less opportunity to stretch their legs for a good run induce neurosis?

Almost two decades later, it appears my dogs have never been happier. Of course I own less dogs than I did in the country (two at a time, to be precise), but the city provides so much amusement — the parks, the people, the pets, the parades, the outdoor pubs — that in 1992 I moved closer to Wisconsin Avenue.

As a dog trainer, I am happy I’ve experienced the changes and pleasure of both rural and urban environments and know the keys to idyllic dog ownership in diverse communities. Here’s my advice for city folk:

1. Keep you dog on a short leash and walk at a brisk pace until you get to a play or potty area.

2. Don’t let your dog sniff or invade another dog’s space (unless he’s familiar and you have permission). Even when approaching a familiar playmate, teach your dog to wait for an invitation rather than rocketing impulsively to his friend.

3. Be cautious when your dog enters or exits your vehicle or the elevator. Keep him on a short leash, get him comfortably out of the traffic pattern, and teach him to sit and to remain in position until released.

4. Think barking is your dog’s god-given right? Think again. Barking increases anxiety in your dog and promotes bad neighbor relations. Curb ALL barking on walks and barking indoors when he looks out a window or hears ordinary noise or workman. Not only will your dog be calmer, he’ll become a superior watchdog for those rare occasions you really do need him to take your side.

5. Pick-up after your dog. Clean-up after your dog. Scoop the poop. Tote the turds. Dispose of the dumps. It’s P.C. to be responsible for your dog’s feces. If you ignore this, you tarnish every model dog owner’s reputation — and we will seek you out and shame you. Pick-up and be proud!

Although the opportunities to socialize abound, be respectful. Keep city dogs on short leash when on walks, dining at a sidewalk cafe, passing dogs, people and children, and entering or exiting doorways. Even though this is your beloved dog, it is unrealistic to expect others to share your fondness. To be sure, dog lovers abound in the city. Still, the best way to ensure your pet is accepted, or at least tolerated, in your new community is to showcase good manners — yours and his.

Are your city dogs having trouble adjusting? Call me to arrange a private in-home session, get puppy, basic, and small dog class information, or DITY with my books and DVDs. Phone/text 414-289-7785 or email ammen@dogclass.com for details.

*Amy Ammen, dog expert, director of Amiable Dog Training, author of six books including the Everything Puppy Book and the Everything Dog Book, and agent for Able the Dancing Chihuahua.

If you answered “no” to some of these “Puppy Training Behavior Quiz” questions or if you just want to learn the easiest, most positive methods for raising the BEST DOG you’ve ever owned, enrolling in House-puppy and Obedience Puppy classes is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

GREATEST HOUSE BREAKING MYTHS

1. The longer your dog is outside, the LESS LIKELY he is to mess in the house

Dogs enjoy playing, observing, and investigating when left alone outdoors but often forget about going potty. Therefore:
•  Always watch and chant the “potty command” and teach your dog to GO POTTY fast
•  Have your dog earn play time by pottying first and playing afterwards

2. If your dog goes potty outside it must be safe to give him freedom

Sometimes puppies and mature dogs will, for no apparent reason, relieve themselves several times in a short period. Even if your dog doesn’t soil the house, supervision may be crucial. TIE-OUT STATIONS prevent an untrained dog from discovering how to raid the garbage; steal laundry; jump on counters; or chew furnishings AND teach him to be relaxed.

(SCROLL DOWN PAGE TO SEE MORE EXAMPLES OF TIE-OUT SUCCESS*)

3. Once housebroken, ALWAYS housebroken

Certain conditions can cause very reliable dogs to backslide.
• Changes in diet disrupt normal elimination patterns.
• Weather variations (heat, cold, wet grass, rain and/or thunder) may make outings undesirable.
• New environments such as a new home, a friend’s house, or vacation home may not automatically be accepted as living quarters. No matter how beautiful, your dog’s natural reaction will likely be to treat these places like the great outdoors.
• Steroids and other medications, as well as pregnancy and the beginning of a heat cycle, will trigger unusually frequent elimination.

4. Dogs who can hold it in their cage, all night, or for extended periods are well on their way to being housebroken

Metabolism slows down with inactivity, therefore, even a totally untrained dog may not soil for six to twelve hours when caged. Dogs aren’t trained until they understand, “When I’m outdoors it’s okay to move about, explore and go potty but INSIDE I must ‘hold it’ when sniffing and playing.”

5. ALWAYS SCOLD when you see him going indoors

Some dogs leak (urinate submissively due to an emotional reflex) when they get excited or frightened. Some dogs get frantic when they are left alone and soil. To stop the inappropriate elimination:
• Teach the submissive wetter to concentrate on something other than his emotions by giving commands in an unemotional way or teaching PLATFORM TRAINING.
• Address the separation anxiety by teaching the dog to go in an out of enclosures on command, obeying a sit stay when you are out of sight and treating all arrivals and departures as non-events.

6. DOGS SHOULD INDICATE when they need to go out

Dogs often indicate when they want to go outdoors and play, instead of when they need to potty.

Also, many dogs will indicate frequently and always eliminate. If your dog is conditioned to going out every time he asks and either you’re not available or quick enough to respond, he may have to go because he hasn’t developed the capacity and control to hold it. Don’t encourage indication.

Instead, train puppies to control their elimination with supervision, proper diet and by following “potty break” schedule. After he’s trained, you can easily encourage him to let you know. But why would you need to?

Hawaii can be really distracting! I love this island and since I’ve ALWAYS had a problem sticking with an organizing system I can’t blame my scattered tendancies on the tropical living.

I continually make notes of tasks and ideas, which is great. The problem is that I start writing on my computer, switch to a notebook, than post-it pads, envelopes, scratch paper, napkins, my chalkboard, the bathroom mirror, wall calendar, index cards and phone to compile to-do lists. More is not better — this is a mess!

The other day, I saw my book keeper pull out a POCKET planner. I love pocket calendars and if you do too, let me know. I’d be happy to send a free pocket planner to you*.

But I do have a small request; would you kindly leave a review for Amiable products or services on Amazon (my books and DVDs cover all the techniques you’ve used in class), Google +,Yelp, or Facebook/amiabledogtraining.

*Just email, phone or text to give me your address and where you left your review. Have a dog-gone easily organized 2016! EMAIL: ammen@dogclass.com or PHONE/TEXT 414-289-7785 to get your FREE pocket calendar

Calendar lists START DATES

Puppy classes (House & Obedience) and Small Dog classes EACH meet for 3 consecutive weeks/same time & location/45 minutes each week — and most students take these classes back to back on the same day. Click here to watch the video

Puppy classes (House & Obedience) and Small Dog classes EACH meet for 3 consecutive weeks/same time & location/45 minutes each week — and most students take these classes back to back on the same day. Click here to watch the video

Handling, Polishing, and Proofing for the Ring

Caution: Living With Your Dog Shouldn’t Be Hazardous To Your Training Program!

Say What You Mean and Mean What You Say
Talk vs Action
Loose Leads Make Great Teams
Stay Aware, Now You Can Stare
Please Release Me
Precision and Attitude – the Delicate Balance
If You Think Your So Good – Proof It! Rain, Wind, and Heat
Ring Wise or Wives Tales

Amy Ammen started instructing in 1980, is the author of six books (including Dual Ring Dog) and three DVDs and TV and radio host. Ammen is the director of Amiable Dog Training in Milwaukee and Honolulu offering personal, expert customized training, behavior counseling, and diverse services for dogs of all ages, breeds, backgrounds and levels. Her dogs have won over 50 titles and are High in Trial winners. For more information contact Amy at www.dogclass.com or call/text 414 289-7785

Training in No Time workshop is designed for instructors, pet owners and obedience trial enthusiasts. Open to dogs who are under good, general control and are considerate in public. If in doubt, give me a call (414-289-7795) and/or consider an initial private lesson

Amy Ammen started instructing in 1980, is the author of six books and three DVDs and TV and radio host. Ammen is the director of Amiable Dog Training in Milwaukee and Honolulu offering personal, expert customized training, behavior counseling, and diverse services for dogs of all ages, breeds, backgrounds and levels. Her dogs have won over 50 titles and are High in Trial winners. For more information contact Amy at www.dogclass.com or call/text 414 289-7785.
— Amy Ammen, author Training In No Time

Off-leash and Boundary Training:

AKA Come Here and Stay Home

Respect Builds Control “He’s So Excited!”
Every Command Helps or Hurts All In The Family
Freedom and Safety
Leave Positive Impressions, Take the Load Off His Shoulders
Basics — Quiet, Down, Wait, Come
Open Boundaries — Teaching Your Dog to Stay in Unfenced Areas
Cross the line, then go solo
Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Amy Ammen started instructing in 1980, is the author of six books and three DVDs and TV and radio host. Ammen is the director of Amiable Dog Training in Milwaukee and Honolulu offering personal, expert customized training, behavior counseling, and diverse services for dogs of all ages, breeds, backgrounds and levels. Her dogs have won over 50 titles and are High in Trial winners. For more information contact Amy at www.dogclass.com or call/text 414 289-7785

Do you wish your dog was more mannerly on walks and would come when called, especially around distractions? Learn and practice the fundamentals of good social skills and manners. Get quick results and master techniques you’ll continue using daily at home and in public.

AKC Gazette April 1989

This is Part I of a two-part column by Amy Ammen(torp), the proud owner and trainer of our breed’s very first OTCH (and UD). Kiwi is also a conformation champion. Amy writes that she has been training dogs for fourteen years. She is a full-time, private, in-home dog trainer, and the only trainer in Wisconsin to have three OTCh. dogs! An enviable record, to be sure.

FIRST OTCH CHIN

I had been an obedience fanatic for over eleven years when I bought my Japanese Chin in December of ’86. Common obedience breeds never interested me. Instead, I gravitated toward breeds with bad reputations among the obedience set. I loved the attention my briard, Siberian husky, Australian cattle dog and American Staffordshire terrier attracted when they competed in advanced classes. No one should have been shocked when I appeared with a chin, but some of my friends skeptically commented, “So, are you going to get High in Trials and a U.D. on this one, too?”

Actually, I always hope my dogs will achieve those things but, since predicting obedience potential is largely guesswork, I just try to do the best with what I’ve got. Instead of getting rid of a dog when the going gets tough or the dog can’t seem to learn anything, I recall the seemingly impossible problems my past dogs have overcome and reassure myself that my present problems are no more difficult.

Keeping my perspective about training is easier if I reflect on the many reasons I love the dog that have nothing to do with obedience. I’m always amused by the Kiwi howls, almost inaudibly, when she feels particularly happy (Columnist’s note: A delightful trait of our breed, we call it “speaking Japanese”!); how she torpedoes into my kneecaps I call her away from playing with her buddies; and how she entertains herself by pouncing, growling and throwing her toys. Looking at her bouncy, fluffy body and her scrunched face never fails to make me smile. Little does Kiwi know, if it hadn’t been for her charm, I would have quit on numerous occasions.

The Novice exercises (and particularly heeling and finishes) were unusually difficult for Kiwi to master. Thankfully, Open and Utility training progressed at an average rate, with one exception: the glove retrieve. Being a toy breed, Kiwi is too short to see the glove, so she learned to faithfully take direction and that eventually she would discover the glove. Ironically, Kiwi’s strong points became her accuracy on fronts, finishes and heeling and, once mastered, the glove exercise never caused concern.

Instead, Kiwi developed troublesome problems in other areas. She spooked easily at crowded shows or when children were near and regularly failed the drop of recall, signal exercise and directed jumping in a variety of ways. To improve concentration around distractions, Kiwi and I trained several times a week at stores, schools and parks.

Even with constant work, Kiwi is still easily stressed around distractions. So to take the pressure off, we frequently stop and play after she completes a tough exercise. When Kiwi is confused, freaked out or just belligerent, I never coax her into working. Instead I confidently show her she must keep working. My dog training philosophy is founded on three basic rules: the dog can never quit; allow the dog time to think and work; and accept that the dog isn’t perfect.

–A.A.

In the next column, Amy tells of the showing of Kiwi and the exciting day that she finished her title. My sincere thanks to Amy for sharing this with us. Until next time, Chins up! ###

AKC Gazette June 1989

This month’s guest columnist is Amy Ammen(torp). I can’t imagine anything much more cheerful than what she has to say, so read and enjoy.

OBEDIENCE SUCCESS

On January 14th at the St Petersburgh show, my chin, Ch. Makami Kiwi, finished her Utility Dog title, earned High in Trial with 198 out of Utility B and High Combined (Utility plus Open score) with 392 points. Kiwi was 27 months old when she finished, and it took only four tries.

This is the first time a chin has earned a U.D. or an American HIT. In addition, because Kiwi got all of her legs in less than one year (C.D – U.D.), she also earned a Dog World Award.

Although Kiwi is doing well, she was a slow starter. After getting the premium lists for the Kansas Specialty (April ’88), I decided to show Kiwi. Unfortunately, what little training she’d had didn’t seem to be making an impression. My goal was to get a respectable score of 194. I worked on a lot of motivation to offset the stress of training, especially since I had the deadline of the specialty to meet. We worked out some of the lagging problems and confusion about finishes. the result? Two scores of 194!

After a couple more months of practice and only a little improvement, I entered a show to finish her C.D. and get it over with — Kiwi obviously had no more potential and I had no more patience. Practice sessions became more frustrating, and the lagging and weaving on heeling worsened, so I stopped training and wasn’t going to show. Then, at the last minute, I picked up my armband. Kiwi worked her hardest and best, and earned a 195.5 and third place. I was so excited, we entered several more Novice shows and earned a couple 197.5 and placements.

Around that time, a friend asked about my dog training goals. Laughingly, I said I wanted to finsh Kiwi’s U.D. before the end of the year. With the year more than half over, and Kiwi very green in Open and barely started in Utility, my friend laughed too. So, while Kiwi didn’t finish on schedule, she came very close, and I was thrilled. I’ve never ever owned a dog with more determination and stick-to-itiveness.

I’m delighted that Amy shared this with us. Perhaps only chin people will appreciate what an accomplishment this really is. Congratulations to Amy and Kiwi, and thanks to Amy for choosing a chin.

–Jari Bobillot, 7875 S.E. 13th, Portland, OR 97202

###

“Is that a condition or a dog?”. This question was asked by the husband of one of my seminar participants when she told him I had a ‘Japanese chin.’ I never met the man, but his response still makes me laugh.

Ch and OTCh Makami Kiwi was retired in 1991 at the age of 4. Here’s the backstory: In 1987, I searched for a toy breed and chose the Japanese Chin because there had never been a UD Chin, and achieving a “first” held great appeal. Far as I know, Kiwi is the first and only dog of any breed UD to go on to earn an OTCh.

Mary Bransford of Wichita is noteworthy for being the only breeder to give me the time of day. Hopefully that’s changed, but in the 1980’s Chin breeders were inexplicably arrogant. Mary sold me a top-notch bitch for a rock bottom price and was our biggest fan.

Kiwi wasn’t a natural obedience performer but she was sweet and I LOVED working her. Because I miss her so, I hesitate to own another Chin; it wouldn’t be fair to compare a predicessor to Kiwi despite my affection for the Japanese Chin. That would be the breed, not the mythical condition.

ON THIS PAGE:

GREATEST HOUSE BREAKING MYTHS

1. The longer your dog is outside, the LESS LIKELY he is to mess in the house

Dogs enjoy playing, observing, and investigating when left alone outdoors but often forget about going potty. Therefore:
•  Always watch and chant the “potty command” and teach your dog to GO POTTY fast
•  Have your dog earn play time by pottying first and playing afterwards

2. If your dog goes potty outside it must be safe to give him freedom

Sometimes puppies and mature dogs will, for no apparent reason, relieve themselves several times in a short period. Even if your dog doesn’t soil the house, supervision may be crucial. TIE-OUT STATIONS prevent an untrained dog from discovering how to raid the garbage; steal laundry; jump on counters; or chew furnishings AND teach him to be relaxed.

(SCROLL DOWN PAGE TO SEE MORE EXAMPLES OF TIE-OUT SUCCESS*)

3. Once housebroken, ALWAYS housebroken

Certain conditions can cause very reliable dogs to backslide.
• Changes in diet disrupt normal elimination patterns.
• Weather variations (heat, cold, wet grass, rain and/or thunder) may make outings undesirable.
• New environments such as a new home, a friend’s house, or vacation home may not automatically be accepted as living quarters. No matter how beautiful, your dog’s natural reaction will likely be to treat these places like the great outdoors.
• Steroids and other medications, as well as pregnancy and the beginning of a heat cycle, will trigger unusually frequent elimination.

4. Dogs who can hold it in their cage, all night, or for extended periods are well on their way to being housebroken

Metabolism slows down with inactivity, therefore, even a totally untrained dog may not soil for six to twelve hours when caged. Dogs aren’t trained until they understand, “When I’m outdoors it’s okay to move about, explore and go potty but INSIDE I must ‘hold it’ when sniffing and playing.”

5. ALWAYS SCOLD when you see him going indoors

Some dogs leak (urinate submissively due to an emotional reflex) when they get excited or frightened. Some dogs get frantic when they are left alone and soil. To stop the inappropriate elimination:
• Teach the submissive wetter to concentrate on something other than his emotions by giving commands in an unemotional way or teaching PLATFORM TRAINING.
• Address the separation anxiety by teaching the dog to go in an out of enclosures on command, obeying a sit stay when you are out of sight and treating all arrivals and departures as non-events.

6. DOGS SHOULD INDICATE when they need to go out

Dogs often indicate when they want to go outdoors and play, instead of when they need to potty.

Also, many dogs will indicate frequently and always eliminate. If your dog is conditioned to going out every time he asks and either you’re not available or quick enough to respond, he may have to go because he hasn’t developed the capacity and control to hold it. Don’t encourage indication.

Instead, train puppies to control their elimination with supervision, proper diet and by following “potty break” schedule. After he’s trained, you can easily encourage him to let you know. But why would you need to?

Don’t do Private Lessons if your dog is timid and needs confidence in social situations

Private Lessons are great if your schedule is variable (and not conducive to group classes), your dog is displaying aggressive tendencies requiring better control is attained before entering a group class, and/or you want customize techniques and strategies

Want to experience more pleasure and confidence and connection to your canine? “7 Risky Habits to Avoid” shows you how to get instant results! For over-achievers, watch the video to learn how to take your training to the next level. Have a ‘dog-gone’ great day!

Tip #1 — Teach your dog to walk nicely on one side by walking briskly and giving him sniffing, play, and potty stops at YOUR discretion. ###

Tip #2 —don’t give your dog so much slack he can hog tie people. Unless you might be able to get a date out of it. No, actually, even then, be conscientious and control your slack. ###

Tip #3 — when walking two dogs, keep both on the same side. You’ll be able to give your full attention to both dogs, correct behavior, and change direction much more easily than if one dog is on your left and the other is on your right. ###

Tip #4 — if your dog entangles you, don’t flip the leash overhead. You risk being seriously injured if your dog darts toward a distraction at the moment. Prevent entanglement in the first place by controlling the slack in the leash and your dog’s movement.###

Tip #5 — When crossing a street or driveway, shorten the leash. If a vehicle appears suddenly, your dog will be safe.###

Tip #6 — don’t assume it is okay for your dog to approach another. Be a good owner and keep your dog under control, preferably at your side, as you ask permission for your dog to say “hello.”

“Call your dog!” I pleaded, even though it was apparent the owner was a long way from having that type of control and I was powerless to stop the ambush on my own leashed dogs.

I know they are just dogs, but how would you feel if a complete stranger ran up and sniffed YOUR butt? “Oh, don’t worry, he’s friendly,” provides no comfort when your dog is about to be molested, attacked, or eaten!

Simple, Safe Rules For Dog Walkers (owners or otherwise):

Never take your dog off leash unless he listens instantly, especially around distractions

When you see another dog, ASK permission before allowing your dog to greet him

If your dog has developed social issues around other dogs due to an attack, ambush, or even just due to a lack of familiarity with dogs, give us a call at (414) 289-7785 so we can arrange a private lesson and establish an effective strategy.

“Dual Ring Dog is the first book to address the training needs and distinctions of dogs shown in conformation competition and Obedience Trials together, Dual Ring Dog also introduces Obedience training for retired show dogs.” Howell Book House, 1992

Professionally and personally, my first title, Dual Ring Dog, was a break-though.

As you can see from the overview above, the topic hadn’t been addressed before. My co-author, Jackie Fraser, and I approached it with equal passion from entirely divergent directions. Thanks to Jackie, the content is focused, surprizingly enjoyable to read considering it’s a ‘how-to’ manual and really easy to apply.

By the time I met Jackie (back when many exhibitors smoked cigarettes INDOORS right up until they stepped into the ring), Jackie was an established freelance dog writer and eventually authored so many books about pets that I lost count long ago. We became great friends and one day, for no particular reason, I asked how she started writing. I don’t recall the answer but I do remember getting a call back a few hours later with Jackie asking, “Want to write a book together?”

Ch Weas UD

About 6 months later, long after either of us remembered submitting a proposal, we received a contract for Dual Ring Dog. The initial excitement mutated into panick. Separated by 300 miles, we used the technology of the day (a telephone, typewriter, and US mail delivery) to keep the project on track. The best perk for me was being able to talk to Jackie for hours, several times a week. Our other relationships didn’t fare as well — we both divorced before the book was released. On a brighter note, my susequent co-authors have remained married.

Ch and Otch Kiwi and Ch Oxford CD

Though authors USED to get better treatment from publishers than they do today, fatal errors were committed when this title was published in 1991. The cover is hideous, my name is incorrect in the Library of Congress listing, and the book was miscategorized — and we were powerless to change any of it. Perhaps the publisher was arrogant, apathetic or both and the book was only in print for a few years. Used copies are still available so grab one if you can.

HIT and HC rosettes

Photos include working sessions with American Staffordshire terriers, Japanese chin, Aussie, dobermans and more.

REVIEWS from Amazon

Dual Ring Dog/Successful Training for Both Conformation and Obedience Competition July 2, 2005

By Dog Breeder

Format:Hardcover

This is an older book, “pre clicker”, and so has a more traditional approach. But the methods are not harsh. There are two authors, one a breeder of Am Staffs, who prefers the conformation ring but also does obedience, the other primarily a performance person who also does conformation. They explain early on, that they will each offer their own perspective.

Each AKC obedience exercise, novice through utility is explained, and a method of training it is offered. Then, for each exercise, they provide a couple of lists. One is a list of what is the responsibility of the handler, another is what is the resonsibility of the dog, and then a list of common errors is offered, with suggestions on how to deal with this.

They also explain the minimun you have to do to pass the exercise, if you are just doing something with your conformation dog, and basic titles are your goal, rather than a perfect 200.

It has some good ideas, and is a good addition to your toolbox.

5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent instructional book! January 3, 2000

By Bobby Ellis

Format:Hardcover

We found this book (although now out of print) to be informative, and containing excellent tips on training your dog for competition. The illustrations are excellent, and a real source of entertainment for the reader.

5.0 out of 5 stars Great, practical book with methods that WORK! October 23, 2006

By furkidz

Format:Hardcover

I’ve trained many, many dogs using the methods described in this book with great results. The methods are not ‘purely positive’ or ‘clicker training’ but they really work, dogs enjoy learning with these methods, they learn quickly, and the occasional correction is done so the dog thinks he’s correcting himself for an error, and does not see the handler as the source of correction. There are no ‘harsh’ or ‘cruel’ corrections, so don’t get the wrong impression. Best of all, the methods work great even if you don’t have a ‘typical obedience breed’ like a Sheltie or Golden.

Even if you never plan on competing in obedience or conformation, this book is well worth reading. It outlines training methods to use to gain attention, animate the dog, improve the dog’s attitude, and make working with your dog fun and enjoyable. There are sections on conformation handling and training, and obedience handling from the very basics up through utility exercises. The obedience sections are divided into what is needed to earn a qualifying score and what is needed to earn class or trial placements, so you can work according to your wants and expectations. Instructions are clearly illustrated and easy to follow. This is one of my favorite training books and one I refer to often. ###

There are still people who’ll tell you your dog can’t excel in both the conformation and obedience rings. It’s hogwash and these authors prove it. Both have dual ring champions and Amy Ammen is especially known for her dual ring successes in breeds as diverse as the American Staffordshire Terrier and the Japanese Chin.

Do you have ridiculous photos of yourself in the 90s? So do I. Regretfully, quite a few of them are in this book. Despite misguided clothing and coifing choices, the training advice and content isn’t showing its age. Click here to order.

“I love the Training In No Time stories; they’re entertaining, concise, relevant, relatable (painfully so in some cases), and memorable – and SO fun write. Personally, I often implement valuable changes in my life after hearing anecdotes or listening to someone else’s experience. You too? Then pick up Training in No Time, apply what resonates, and make it part of your routine. Your dog will improve, the results will stick, AND you’ll both enjoy the journey.”

Summary from Thriftbooks

“Training In No Time supplies the training regimen today’s busy lifestyles demand for both owners and their dogs. It makes good use of how dogs learn and explains how to use that knowledge to establish and maintain the responses every dog owner wants.The Sneakaway is the foundation of this training method. Quite literally, you turn your back and sneak away whenever your dog stops paying attention to you. This method allows for easy teaching and effective problem solving by first focusing your dog’s undivided attention on you, even around the strongest distractions.Then, using daily, subtle clues you give your dog in everyday interactions, you can instill good habits. The surest way to get permanent, positive results is to recognize and change the few big ambiguities that allowed problems to surface and to use daily, natural clues to instill, not destroy, good habits. Behavior is being molded 24 hours a day. This results in consistent, socially acceptable behavior under all circumstances and a well-trained companion dog.”

Last Sunday, we began a new Essential Basics class. After practicing an exercise to control excessive barking in class and at home, an astute student asked, “How much barking is too much? Is it okay for the dogs to bark at a passersby?”

When it comes to barking, the line of tolerance varies. Establish rules based on that line. Here are mine: until I ask them to be quiet, barking is acceptable when my dogs hear a knock at the door or if they see someone entering their property, but not at things that are within view but off the property. In the car, if someone is peering into my windows it is okay to bark, but not when someone enters or exits the car parked next to us nor upon seeing or hearing another dog.

Noisy dogs are ineffective watchdogs, and ironically, will be oblivious to the one or two incidences in life that are truly a call for alarm. A discriminating dog is your extra set of eyes, silently investigating and never failing to alert when the situation warrants it.

SUMMARY: My expectation is that my dogs observe and evaluate attention-getting situations before alerting with a bark. If you want your dog to do the same, come to Essential Basics so you can quickly and easily teach discriminative barking.

Please call/text for details: 414-289-7785

Puppy classes (House & Obedience) and Small Dog classes EACH meet for 3 consecutive weeks/same time & location/45 minutes each week — and most students take these classes back to back on the same day. Click here to watch the video

Amy’s Expecting!

No, it’s not me. Rather, one of my recent students (who, coincidentally, is named Amy) called me with her good news and wondered what she could do to prepare her 5 month old Lab. If you find yourself in a similar situation, check out these suggestions for pregnant pet parents.

Bringing Home Baby Without Displacing Your Dog:

By Amy Ammen and Kitty Foth-Regner

One of the most traumatic events in the life of a hyper dog is the arrival of a new baby. That’s because, inevitably, when the baby arrives, things change for the dog.

Some hyper dogs want nothing more than to be a part of the action by being close to and befriending the mini human being. Some become immediately protective of the infant, making visiting well-wishers at best uncomfortable with their hovering. Some feel neglected and forgotten, often legitimately so as the baby’s needs overwhelm the household. And some feel abused, as nervous new parents become increasingly paranoid and snappish every time the dog walks into the room.

Fortunately, there are steps you can take to avoid such situations. Here are some suggestion:.

* Plan ahead. My obedience-training school frequently gets calls from expectant couples a few days before their babies are due — couples who seem surprised that their dog didn’t somehow outgrow his hyperness over the course of the pregnancy. Late training is better than no training, of course — but it’s much better to greet an infant with a hyper dog who is already well under control.

* Take field trips to busy playgrounds to practice your obedience training, and treat the children as distractions to be ignored.

* Get your dog used to your new activities by practicing with a doll — seriously! Have him practice holding the sit-stay while you’re diapering, singing to, and feeding the doll, and strapping it into a car seat. Add all the baby accessories you’ll soon be toting, from diaper bags to bottles. Teach him to heel alongside you as you push the doll in a stroller. (Your neighbors will think you’re crazy, but your dog will display far better manners once you’ve brought your baby home.)

* Think about buying your baby products well in advance of the happy event. Most of these items have distinctive scents, Open the packages and leave them in the baby’s room, allowing your dog to sniff the contents. You can even dab baby powder and oil onto yourself each day. The result? A dog who is desensitized to the smells associated with an infant.

* Designate a comfortable spot to send your dog to when he’s in the way. As long as he’s not becoming territorial toward your baby, that spot should keep him near you so he will still feel like a valued part of the family. You can set up several such spots in the rooms where you spend the most time — even one in the nursery, if you like.

* Teach him to get off and stay off the furniture.

* Use the “Shopping Technique” to teach him to discriminate between his toys and the baby’s things.

* Don’t forget how much exercise your dog needs each day. If you run out of time, hire a dog walker or send him to a dog day care facility.

* Look for every possible opportunity to exercise him. Play fetch while you’re rocking or feeding the baby, for instance, or grab a few minutes here and there for Play During Training or Rapid-Fire Commands.

Excerpt is from Hip Ideas for Hyper Dogs, Written by Amy Ammen and Kitty Foth-Regner. Copyright 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

If you answered “no” to some of these Puppy Behavior Quiz questions or just want to learn the easiest, most positive methods for raising the BEST DOG you’ve ever owned, enrolling in House-puppy and Obedience Puppy classes is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

PUPPY

Amiable offers classes specially designed for puppies who are UNDER 15 weeks of age.

“House Puppy” and “Obedience Puppy” courses are three consecutive weeks each, and are held at the same time and same location for 45 minutes each week (90 minutes if you enroll in both “House Puppy” and “Obedience Puppy”). The “House Puppy” and “Obedience Puppy” classes can be taken simultaneously (highly recommended) or individually. Click here for upcoming class start dates.

$129 for 1st “module” (“House Puppy” OR “Obedience Puppy”)

$70 for 2nd “module,” or

$199 for both (HIGHLY recommended)

Enrollment is limited to ten dogs (must be 15 weeks old or under on the starting date of class).

“House Puppy” Module ($129)

Class meets for three consecutive weeks, and is held at the same time and same location for 45 minutes each week. If you also enroll in “Obedience Puppy” (highly recommended), you will attend for 90 minutes each week for three consecutive weeks. Click here for the current schedule of starting dates.

Covers manners, etiquette, and social skills

Learn the best ways to house break, crate train, control nipping, chewing and excessive barking

We also cover grooming, car riding, the off command, and the settle position, and socialization

“Obedience Puppy” Module ($129)

Class meets for three consecutive weeks, and is held at the same time and same location for 45 minutes each week. If you also enroll in “House Puppy” (highly recommended), you will attend for 90 minutes each week for three consecutive weeks. Click here for the current schedule of starting dates.

Puppy Combo: “House Puppy” and “Obedience Puppy” Modules ($199)

Class meets for three consecutive weeks and is held at the same time and same location for those three weeks. If you are enrolled in both the “House Puppy” and “Obedience Puppy” modules (highly recommended), you will attend for 90 minutes each week for three consecutive weeks. Click here for the current schedule of starting dates (highly recommended).

HOUSE PUPPY COVERS:

Manners, etiquette, and social skills

Learn the best ways to housebreak, crate train, control nipping, chewing and excessive barking

We also cover grooming, car riding, the off command, and settle down

OBEDIENCE PUPPY COVERS:

Commands, leash walking, and introduction to boundary training

Teach your puppy to walk nicely on a leash and come at a distance

We also cover sit, down and come commands, plus the introduction to boundary training

Dogs and their humans love fresh snow fall. But high wind, dangerous ice, falling temps or long stretches of shortened and sunless days make radiators more inviting than sidewalks. The good news is that you can stay in or go out and still keep your dog content and happy.

If your dog is suffering from cabin fever in the winter (and what dog isn’t?), here are some fun and easy exercise options for just about anyone – including those who are eager to embrace the elements head-on, as well as those who prefer to go into hibernation mode at this time of year.

Snow Sports:

Want to take advantage of the snow? Grab your dog and the right equipment and you’ll be all set. Just be sure to bring along some water for your dog if you’ll be out for an hour or more; dehydration can be a problem in winter, too, and running through the snow can be very taxing.

Snowshoeing:

Anyone who can walk can snowshoe, and the shoes themselves can be had fairly inexpensively online or via classified ads. All your dog needs is some basic obedience training. And it’s great exercise for both of you.

Cross-country skiing:

There’s no better way to give yourself, and your dog, a good cardiovascular workout. If you’re skilled, and you have good off-leash control over your dog, take him or her along next time you hit the trails – a good time will be had by all.

Skijoring:

For a little more excitement with a hyper dog weighing 30 pounds or more, you might want to give skijoring a try. It’s an adaptation of cross-country skiing that allows your dog to do the heavy pulling – and it sometimes means exhilarating speeds. All you’ll need beyond your cross-country gear is a skijoring belt, sled-dog racing harness and tow line (all available online or at local sports-supply stores). Assuming that you’re a good skier and your dog has decent obedience skills, you’ll be all set.

Indoor Fun:

You can give your dog a good workout and a good time indoors, too. Here are some idea-starters.

Retrieving:

Does your dog love to play ball? Satisfy her retrieving instinct by launching a ball or another toy up or down the stairs and letting her do what comes naturally. You don’t even have to worry about overexerting her; she’ll quit when she gets tired. A word of caution: if the steps are slippery, install a runner or non-skid pads before the first toss. And don’t do this if your dog is arthritic – but you knew that already.
Tug-of-War:

This is a game dogs naturally delight in, so if yours can play it responsibly, go for it. Just be sure to inject a little discipline into the game every now and then, giving him a sit, down, or heel command in the midst of a good tug, and enforcing it. If you find that it’s teaching him some bad habits – like unwillingness to relinquish items on command – skip this game entirely.

Rapid-Fire Commands:

Here’s a great way to calm your dog down while increasing his responsiveness and exercising his mind. It’s also a perfect technique precluding over-exuberance when someone comes to the door. Here’s what to do: Snap a leash on his collar. Then deliver, and enforce, a series of commands as quickly as he can carry them out. Use any combination of commands such as sit, down, stay, come, heel, and sit up, mixing them up and imparting a sense of great urgency with each one. Expect that you’ll have to use a few corrections to ensure a lively cadence. Once you’ve captured his full attention, praise him and release him. If he loses emotional control, repeat the exercise.

Stalking, chasing, pouncing and playing:

Ever feel like acting as goofy as your dogs does? Go right ahead! Attach a leash so you can regain decorum if necessary, and join her on the floor to get silly: Pretend you’re a cat and stalk her. Pounce on her. Play tag or tug-of-war. Tease her with a toy and then toss it out and race her for it. Or challenge her to a race over an improvised indoor race course. Throw in some obedience commands to maintain control over the situation; when she returns to obedience mode, let the games begin again. It’s like developing an on/off switch for hyper-excitability and obedience.

Play During Training:

To further refine that on/off switch, and have a lot of fun in the process, turn your indoor obedience sessions into “controlled play.” Practice old commands and teach new ones, frequently inserting bursts of whatever he likes to do best – chasing, hiding, pouncing, and light scratching, for instance. The moment she begins to lose control, go back to your commands.

Hide and Seek:

If this was one of your favorite childhood games, why not play it again? Simply tell your dog to stay, leave the room, hide, and issue the “come” command. Or if you have an accomplice handy, such as a young daughter, let her do the hiding while you ask your dog, “Where’s Susie?” Or try hiding a favorite toy or treats – even a non-sporting dog will enjoy that sort of hunt! This gives you the added pleasure of watching his excitement as he searches out the hider.

Wacky Recalls:

Whenever the spirit moves you, grab your dog’s attention with a sharp clap or by calling “Hey!” or “Come!” Then take off down the hall, up the stairs, and duck into a dark corner to hide. You’ll fail and she’ll be delirious with joy. Do this about every fourth time you call her, and you’ll be fine-tuning her recall skills so well that she should soon be racing to your side every time she hears you call “come!”

Training Tips for the Indoors

Are you using frigid weather as an excuse to postpone training your dog? DON’T! It is the best opportunity to improve your dog’s behavior if you know how to do it in the comfort of your home. I offer private In-home lessons but you can do the following exercises on your own, starting today:

Though I’m currently in Waikiki, I monopolize indoor training opportunities while wintering in Milwaukee. Here are some key exercises designed for the indoors:

Heeling practice — Weave through rooms and around furniture. Move quickly. Demand prompt responses and your dog will be SO proud dog for his improved listening skills (I may be projecting but, once you do this, you’ll see what I mean!)

Sit stays – heel over to the fridge or dishwasher, open it and shuffle through the contents as you keep one eye on your critter ready to enforce. Also, leash your dog when you expect visitors — that’s a perfect opportunity for practice the ‘sit stay,’ too

Recall (come command) — keep your dog leashed indoors and, when he’s completely engrossed in his own endeavors, call “come” as you back up, praise, and pull him in

And that’s only the beginning! Want to learn more? I offer group classes, private consultations, and workshops. CLICK here to see the current Amiable schedule and to enroll.

Want timely tips on better behavior? Check out Overcoming Canine Cabin Fever. Have a dog-gone great New Year and call/text (414-289-7785) or email (ammen@dogclass.com) anytime!

Want more great ideas for entertaining, exercising and training your dog? Consult Hip Ideas for Hyper Dogs (Wiley) — and get ready to enjoy new levels of communication and closeness with even the most hyperactive canine!

Millions of healthy dogs are needlessly killed each year. People flood into humane societies to discard pets they chose haphazardly. Occasionally, allergies, moving or sudden illness do necessitate getting rid of the dog. But, typically, these are only excuses given by frustrated owners who dump dogs because they are unwilling to provide for the dog physically (exercise, training), financially (supplies, veterinary care, food) and emotionally (companionship).

Click a link below to find additional information that can to help you make a more informed decision on choosing a dog.

If bath-time strikes horror in your dog’s heart – and your own – take heart: Any dog can learn to cooperate and even love a good bath.

Here’s what you’ll need:

Shampoo, ideally purchased from a pet-supply store or pet catalog, since some of the grocery store brands cause severe dandruff on certain dogs

Cream rinse if your dog has long hair

A hose and sprayer that will fit securely on the faucet you’ll be using

Lots of towels

The dog’s collar and leash

If you need to buy any of these things, check out some good, economical sources such as petedge.com and leatherbrothers.com. An excellent alternative, becoming more widely available with every passing year, is a self-serve dog wash. The equipment, towels, and mess stay where they belong, permanently out of your home.

But bathing at home is, for most of us, the most convenient alternative. If you have access to a stationary tub (the sort of utilitarian raised tub that’s often found in basements), I strongly recommend that you use it rather than a bathtub. The lighting will be better, the elevation will be easier on your back, and you’ll be able to tie the leash to a nearby pipe. Best of all, you’ll be able to attach the sprayer hose securely to the faucet with a standard hose fitting, so it won’t go flying off in the middle of that all-important rinse.

Lift or help your dog into the tub and tie his leash to something solid nearby, such as a pipe. Don’t leave any slack in the leash; once he figures out that there’s nowhere to go, he will settle down for the duration. Keeping the water pressure quite low and the sprayer head close to his body, get him wet.

To wash the head, muzzle, and ears, reduce the water pressure, keep the nozzle against the dog’s skin and be ultraconservative with your application of shampoo. If the dog’s head isn’t stinky or dirty, skip it and wash him from the neck back. Lather up every inch of his body to the top of his neck. Then rinse rinse rinse; professional groomers say to rinse until you’re sure your dog is squeaky clean, and then rinse him again.

Finally, use your hands to gently squeeze out the excess water. Then wrap him in towels and rub him down to dry him off. Then it’s back to work. Position him on your grooming table or platform, using a collar-and-leash combo to keep him still, and follow the steps appropriate to his breed or coat type to blow dry, brush, clean his ears, and possibly trim his coat.

You’ll find a number of good books on breed-specific or general grooming at your local bookstore. If your dog is a mixed breed, he’ll probably look his handsome best if you follow the recommendations for the breed he most closely resembles.

*Want more grooming help or to drop-by my free grooming clinics, click here

Through research at the library and conversations with veterinarians and breeders, you will probably feel knowledgeable enough to evaluate and select a lifetime companion. But, sometimes, the more you know the more questions you have.

Feel free to call Amiable Dog Training with questions about breeds, breeders and dogs in general at (414) 289-7785.

The dog must feel welcome by every member of your household. The dog will sense resentment and suffer unfairly if he is unwanted by a family member.

Don’t be cheap when it comes to purchase price. Over the dog’s lifetime, vet bills, food, supplies and training will likely be a substantial amount and far exceed the purchase price. Investing hundreds of dollars or more initially will be money well spent to get the dog you want from a breeder you trust. Never get a dog simply because he’s cute or because if you don’t take him the dog will be put to sleep. Buy him because he is absolutely the right dog for you.

Finally, obedience training is essential for the perfect puppy because a submissive, responsive dog will become headstrong, dominant and possibly dangerous if rules are not set and consistently enforced. Environment plays as big a part in shaping temperament as genetics.

Whether you buy from a breeder or an animal shelter, the pup should be quietly friendly. To test people orientation, kneel down, clap your hands and enthusiastically call, “Hey, puppy, come on!” He should return your enthusiasm by coming merrily to lick your hands, regardless of what he was doing when you called. Test the pup individually and among its littermates. The two situations should have similar results.

If most of the time the puppy doesn’t come, do not buy him! There are a lot of dogs in the world and you are going to have yours a long time. So for ease of training, choose a sociable, responsive puppy. If under 14 weeks, test submissiveness by rolling the pup on his back and placing your palm on his chest between his front legs. Don’t look at him or laugh or talk. If he struggles, just continue to restrain until he relaxes. If you have perspiration dripping from your brow, and he’s still resisting furiously, find a more subdued puppy.

Avoid:

Overly-possessive pups. You should be able to approach and remove anything the puppy is eating, chewing or playing with no matter how delicious or intriguing. Silent and confident, walk over and remove his prize, opening his mouth if necessary.

The bully who struts stiff-legged, attacking his litter-mates at every opportunity. This dog will need ongoing, careful training.

Timid or very inactive pups. Your puppy should be alert, curious and happy. Always schedule a veterinarian exam immediately after purchase to confirm that your puppy is as healthy as he seems.

If you prefer to adopt a mixed breed from the humane society, use the answers to the previous nine questions in Breed Selection to determine which category of dog suits you best: retriever, herder, spitz type, etc.

Evaluating which breed or breeds a mixed puppy will resemble as an adult is, at best, a guessing game for even the most experienced dog professional. The puppy may have the body of one breed and the mind of another. But, even when buying a purebred dog, there is no guarantee the individual you pick will be temperamentally typical of its breed since environment plays a crucial role in shaping personality.

So, don’t necessarily rule out a mix. You take your chances, to different degrees, either way.

Saving money. Even when the initial purchase price is more (buying a trained dog), adult food costs less, vaccinations and veterinary visits are less frequent and you can avoid expensive damage from chewing.

Evaluating adult dogs differs greatly from puppies. Once mature, many breeds need to bond before freely giving affection. German shepherds and poodles are usually this way but, once bonded, are very loyal. When considering an adult,do not roll it over or take an object away. Even if the dog is of sound temperament, he may act defensively if your movements are awkward. If you are buying from a source other than the humane society, demand a trial basis of two weeks to a month. A reputable party will automatically offer this because they want the dog in a home where he is completely welcome.

A trial basis will prove that:

The dog’s temperament is compatible with yours.

He doesn’t have a defective character trait like shyness or aggression.

He wasn’t sold because he was impossible to live with.

Humane societies generally have a “no refund” policy. Be prepared to return the dog and forfeit your money if you really can’t work with him. Some problems such as excessive barking, running away and house soiling are all very correctable. If you like everything but his bad habit, consult a professional trainer to assist you in correcting the problem.

Guarantees pups against hereditary defects and will take the pup back for any reason.

Explains bad and good characteristics of the breed (preferably in that order).

Encourages buyers to see and touch the sire and dam. If the sire is not on the premises, the breeder should offer to show photos.

Only breeds dogs which have sound, family-oriented temperament.

Supplies information on feeding, house training and grooming.

American Kennel Club registration papers are no indication of a quality or a concerned breeder. AKC registration simply means the dog is a product of a registered purebred sire and dam of the same breed. Unfortunately, many breeders of AKC stock have no concern for health, appearance or temperament of dogs. Determine the credibility of a breeder by the attention he pays to the six important points mentioned earlier rather than the boast of AKC registration.

Short coated breeds like Chihuahuas or dalmatians require only occasional toenail trimming, ear cleaning and rubdown with a towel. On the other hand, Afghan hounds and Old English sheepdogs need hours of patient brushing each week to keep their flowing coats beautiful. Outdoorsy folks who enjoy hiking through the woods and muddy fields or who enjoy taking their dog for frequent swims should consider shorthaired breeds that clean up and dry off quickly and don’t attract burrs, twigs and leaves.

Choose a breed that likes the seasons you do. A husky is generally sluggish in summer; in the winter, a husky is eager to frolic outside whereas a Mexican hairless prefers semi-hibernation in winter and is prone to sunburn in the summer.

Do I like a vocal dog?

A good reason to own a dog is so you’ll be alerted to intruders. Some dogs are natural watchdogs while others tend to bark excessively unless trained to be discriminating. If barking annoys you, choose a quiet, laid back breed.

Do I visitors frequently?

If the answer is yes, look for a non-territorial breed that is accepting of strangers on its property.

How much affection do I want to give?

Some dogs are aloof and undemonstrative and others are demanding and want to play all day. The latter is a good choice for considerate children.

Am I overly concerned about the cleanliness of my house?

Immaculate housekeepers should choose a very low shedding, beardless breed which doesn’t drool. Even some short coated breeds like Labradors and Shar Peis shed a lot.

What size dog is compatible with my house?

Don’t buy a Newfoundland if you live in cramped quarters. Although they’re docile, 200 pounds of dog will get in the way. Even an active, medium sized dog may be too much in the average sized house. When in doubt, a good rule of thumb is to buy a smaller rather than larger dog. You won’t be sorry because small dogs are easier to live with, pick up after and less physically demanding to groom, train and exercise.

How much can I afford for veterinary care?

Although any dog can be plagued with bad health, some breeds are more prone to disease than others. Read Medical and Genetic Aspects of Purebred Dogs by Ross D. Clark, DVM and Joan R. Stainer (Veterinary Publishing Company) and consult a veterinarian to discuss whether the breed you’re considering is generally hardy.

Can I afford to feed this dog?

Professional foods recommended by many veterinarians are expensive. Before considering a large breed, make sure the food bill fits your budget.

After answering these questions, get personality profiles of your breeds of interest from the Internet and books. Don’t be impressed by the use of terms such as loyal, trust worthy, devoted, good family dog; and don’t base your selection on glowing, biased descriptions.

Personality profiles should expose favorable and unfavorable traits. To locate a dog, buy a copy of Dog World magazine at a bookstore, check the classified ads, search the Internet, and get references. Write to them for information and ask if they have sold puppies in your area that you may meet. Dog shows are another excellent resource for investigating both common and exotic breeds.

Provide hard things to chew on, fun stuff to play with, adequate exercise and a vocabulary.

Make certain his toys agree with his system (does not cause vomiting, gas or diarrhea) and are not dangerous (ask your veterinarian) or confusing (personal items like shoes, towels, socks and rag-like toys can encourage indiscriminate chewing).

Establish a vigorous exercise program for high energy and large dogs.

Train your dog in basic obedience. You will be able to speak the same language, develop a stronger bond and substitute bad behavior with desirable action.

Practice “set-ups” so your dog never tries to jump, steal or shred, no matter how tempting the situation. Occasionally open cabinets, leave laundry and a purse on the floor, leave the dishwasher open, place liver sausage on a counter and chips on the coffee table. Then, prepare to correct thievery.

Never use your dog

Reward him each time you ask him to go in, out, up, down, on or off. Otherwise, you may find your dog is entertained by leading you in a chase around the house when you invite him into the house, car or washtub. Although you probably called him for a reason, treat his response to the “come” as a separate event and praise him accordingly. Also, frequently practice telling him to go in and out of the car, crate or house when you are not going to ride, confine or leave.

Treat arrivals/departures as non-events

The easiest way to encourage good behavior around guests is to ignore your dog as you come and go. If play and attention occur the instant someone makes an entrance, your dog will return all that love and affection in the form of jumping up and barking.

Feed nothing but dog food, only in his dish (or a kong or puzzle toy) and place it in a quiet spot

Dogs who are never given food from the table, counter, or hand or fed table scraps have little incentive to search for food outside of their bowl.

Let him eat in peace at a prescribed time and food will never be reason to get defensive.

Take extra precautions when routines are upset

If your dog is under-exercised, your work schedule changes or you are going on vacation, fighting with household members or expecting guests, your dog’s behavior is likely to change. Expect the worst and treat him like an untrained dog by taking every precaution to ensure you aren’t giving him opportunities to be naughty until things get back to normal.

So you’ve taken your dog to task for a behavior problem that’s gotten out of hand. You’ve tried several different approaches, but they only seem to help temporarily and Buster is back to his old mischievous ways. Before you do something irrational about the problem, perhaps it is time to examine what your demeanor is really saying to the dog.

A dog’s behavior (both acceptable and unacceptable) is often shaped by the subconscious messages you send, rather than the training procedures you follow. Successful problem solving occurs when subconscious messages and training messages are compatible. Conversely, frustration and confusion result on the part of both dog and trainer if your aura says one thing, but your reaction to problem behavior says the opposite.

Why is my dog stubborn?

Before a trainer can live harmoniously with a disruptive canine, the trainer has to establish himself as an authority figure. Otherwise it is like telling two tough-minded, bickering children, that one is going to give orders and the other will quietly obey. Do you think the child told to obey would accept that arrangement? After all, how would you feel if a citizen, rather than a police officer, attempted to issue you a parking ticket? Would you pay it? Certainly not. Likewise, before your dog will take you seriously, you have to earn your badge.Why does my dog try to fight?Let’s say my dog, King, likes to fight with other dogs. I take King for a walk once a day and I allow him to pull on the leash and stop to sniff when he wants to. When King sees another dog, he starts growling and lunging and then I correct him. Sometimes that stops his aggressive behavior for the moment, but when he sees the next dog, the pattern is always repeated. King thinks he is the boss from the onset of every walk because he leads the way by pulling me out the door and dictating when to stop for sniffing and when to resume walking again. Therefore, to curb King’s confrontations, I must first assume a leadership position by never allowing King to pull on lead during walks. Now if King still tries to pick fights, as an authority figure, I can tell King to stop and he’ll have a reason to listen to me.

Why isn’t my dog housebroken?Suppose Pebbles suddenly starts to use your house as a toilet (and you’ve confirmed with your veterinarian that there is no medical excuse for the behavior). To reestablish good housebreaking habits, you follow a good program like the one outlined in this post, and Pebbles’ house soiling ceases…temporarily. No matter how carefully you follow housebreaking guidelines, Pebbles won’t shape up permanently until you demonstrate that the house is yours – not hers.

Tips for solving and preventive problemsTo establish an authoritative persona, rethink past situations which have given the dog the impression he is keeping you in line, and turn the tables. Consider the following examples:

Walks should be taken on a slack lead with the dog walking at your side. If the dog pulls on the leash, you are following and he is leading. Thus, you reaffirm his superior position every time you take him out. If you teach him never to pull on the lead (not because you told him to heel, but just because that’s the way it is), you can reaffirm your authority and exercise him simultaneously.

Make the dog move out of the way instead of walking over him or around him when he’s in your path. He knows where a quiet place to lay is, but by lying in your path and watching you tip-toe around him, he is confirming that it really is his house, just like he thought.

Stop giving “free” affection. Instead of becoming an “automatic petting machine” for your dog’s convenience, make him earn your attention. When he nudges your arm, command him to sit before petting.

Enforce every command. When you say, “Stay” repeatedly as your dog is bopping around the vet’s office, your dog actually is being taught that “stay” means he is free to do anything he chooses. If you doubt your ability to enforce a command, it is better left unspoken than disobeyed.

Why won’t my dog listen?
Although dogs can easily be taught commands, they don’t understand a verbal language. Instead, they pay keen attention to body language, facial expression and tone of voice. So, let’s forget about what you say with your mouth and let’s concentrate on your paralanguage. Trainers commonly get their signals mixed when teaching “Come”.

Tips for teaching the “Come” commandThe following tips will convey what “Come” really means:

Make your voice inviting and friendly. Formalize your command (“Buster, Come!” – instead of “Come on Buster, let’s go!”) so the dog learns a specific word for a specific action.

If the dog hesitates, don’t move toward him. That will tell him you want to chase him like his littermates did and thus you would teach him that “come” means run away. Instead, back up and clap or actually run around a corner out of sight. If the dog is quite independent, you may have to wait a minute or two for the dog to find you.

Give lots of verbal praise when the dog comes, but never reach out for him. He is supposed to come to you. Keep your hands next to your body and continue giving verbal praise as you inch away or turn away from the dog if he is reluctant to come within reach.

Recently, I had a Dachshund in training who always danced several feet out of hand’s reach when called to come. From the time Candy was a pup, the owner reached out to pet her and grabbed her to bring her in close. This procedure inadvertently taught Candy to stay further away and run fast when the owner did try to grab. Within two days of following the suggestions I just outlined, Candy learned that come really means to happily run to the owner to snuggle.

Too often, dogs are labeled spiteful, stubborn or stupid because of behavior problems. Actually, dog behavior is quite predictable and dogs are incredibly willing learners when their teachers’ actions and attitudes complement one another.