Tradition of quality continues at Juliette Kitchen

Juliette Kitchen came into the space that used to house Tradition by Pascal with a modern vision of dining, trading plush chairs and white tablecloths for elegantly rustic décor.

The transformation includes a new wood floor and faux bronze coffered ceiling. In between, a menu of creative small plates and gourmet versions of American standards reigns. The result manages to be upscale without feeling stodgy, and so far, that balance has found success among the Newport Beach restaurant's clientele.

During lunch, the dining room is busy enough that reservations would be a good idea for anyone on a tight schedule. Sandwiches and salads dominate the menu, each listing quality ingredients that make this basic fare far from boring.

On the roasted turkey sandwich, pancetta, arugula, tomato and avocado aioli join slices that taste like they've been carved from some Norman Rockwell fantasy. This is better than what's on the table at Thanksgiving; the turkey remains moist with just a touch of smokiness from slow roasting. Soft, fresh bread stands up to the ample stack of meat. It would feel too heavy without the peppery freshness of arugula and the creamy avocado spread.

Cured salmon ($14) turns a basic salad into a lunchtime treat. The buttery fish is paired with crunchy sprigs of frisée as well as heirloom tomatoes, red onions, pancetta and aged cheddar in a cilantro vinaigrette. It's the kind of salad where lettuce is not the dominant ingredient, so each bite is bright with a variety of flavors and textures. You won't be left picking out the "good stuff." With so many good ingredients, the dressing is wisely applied sparingly to add just a touch of creaminess and spice.

To drink, house-made sodas ($4 each) carry on the theme of quality ingredients. Grapefruit thyme proves to be sweet and refreshing, with the herb adding a slight bitterness. The drink has clear layers of soda water and grapefruit puree that emphasize the difference between this and a soft drink from a can.

For dinner, the menu expands to include charcuterie and a wider selection of small plates. A few main courses such as steak or roasted chicken are available for a more traditional meal, but trying several of the smaller dishes lets diners appreciate the range of the kitchen.

Roasted beets ($10) come in an interesting deconstructed salad with wedges of grapefruit and frisée. A generous sprinkle of goat cheese adds a saltiness that contrasts with the more mellow veggies. Their appeal is the perfect texture – soft, but not mushy. Acidic grapefruit and more of the crisp frisée remind you that this is a salad, barely. Flavors are rounded out with pistachio, dill and aged sherry, and by the last bite, I'm still appreciating the dish's complexities.

Similarly complex is the Tuna Crudo ($16), an architectural stack of ahi, daikon radish and micro greens. The dish is set off with a jalapeno mango sorbet and served in a cool tomato seafood broth. Each bite is refreshing, and the play of different textures makes it stand out from the pack of raw tuna dishes that have swept restaurants.

I expect the gnocchi ($13) to stick to my ribs and am pleasantly surprised to find lightness. The often gluey potato dumplings are instead delicately puffed, with an interior that melts on your tongue. The lightly browned exterior offers savory flavor. Wax beans, radicchio and a dollop of arugula basil pesto give the dish a fresh-from-the-garden feel. Unexpectedly, the plate's protein, duck confit, is not the star of the show. The usually tender confit is on the chewy side. Again, nuts – this time toasted pecans – serve as a crunchy garnish.

It's difficult to save room for dessert, but the sweets are not to be missed. Salted caramel pot de crème ($8) manages to be artistic and satisfying. Layers of rich vanilla and caramel cream are enhanced with a savory pepita brittle topping. On the side, chocolate cookies are perfectly chewy.

With such quality and precision to the food, small missteps stand out more. I found service to be a little uneven – an incorrect side served with my sandwich, a dish whisked away instead of wrapped up to go. Overall, however, the excellence of fine dining is there, if in different trappings than Tradition.