Did you find that you had to add more spacers to your tie-rod setup? If you do, and you’re out of adjustment on the shank, would it be reasonable to take the same approach there (drill out the taper and use a bolt)? From what I remember, there isn't a lot of material out on the tie-rod pickup.

Did you find that you had to add more spacers to your tie-rod setup? If you do, and you’re out of adjustment on the shank, would it be reasonable to take the same approach there (drill out the taper and use a bolt)? From what I remember, there isn't a lot of material out on the tie-rod pickup.

I ended up going with SPL tie rod ends. I almost made my own and used a bolt, but at the end of the day I felt like making at least a little part of this project easier on myself.

I'm using all their adjustment shims, and things look pretty good angle wise for even a bit more spacing between the spindle and bearing. I'm sure if you really needed just a hair more you could probably get a hair more adjustment out of them.

I just went back and re-read it, and it looks like he used that part underneath to space the bolt's head down.

For the top, might have to stack like $20 worth of washers lol

I actually cut a piece of 1" OD DOM tubing and faced each side in my lathe. The washers I linked to are about 0.060" thick, so to get the same spacing as I used you'd need about 7 above the bearing and about 4 below the bearing. So figure you'd want 3 packs of 10 just to have plenty of adjustment in addition to the Godspeed spacer.

I also took off my front sway bar at the same time and haven't put it back on since I'm still messing around with the S14 front bar(probably won't work since it hits my GReddy oil pan with just slight travel up).

Overall the roll without a front sway feels about the same as it did before, and it seems like the car transitions even quicker up front. From the seat of the pants feel, I'd say it feels worth it.