Sunday, 30 December 2012

Looking Back: Part One

My overriding memory of this collection is unfortunately that of Marc Jacobs in his lacy leprechaun get-up, but there was actually a lot here worth remembering. The tailoring was as ever quite spectacular in person, and the vivid pink pieces were a nice surprise - a more mature version of her Spring/Summer 2005 Pink Panther collection as it were.

I do not really tend to pay much attention to Van Assche's work at Dior Homme, for I find his eponymous own line far more interesting, but I did rather like this collection. The collection was named Less And More, with his meditation on the idea of less being rather alluring to say the least.

Not the strongest, not the weakest - this was a solid Julius collection (although the women did admittedly steal the show). Sheer knits and rayons rubbed up against leathers and denims. Tough and delicate, ready for anything.

Entitled Wish You Were Here, a message to his family stranded by the Tohoku earthquake and tsunami that devastated Japan, this collection was somewhat darker than Yasuhiro's usual fair. The main draw of the collection was undoubtedly his artful layering and piecing together of t-shirts, but I was very much drawn to the more casual tailoring.

Rick Owens has always played with gender stereotypes and sexuality in his clothing, and with this collection he went full out and sent his men down the runway in skirts, dresses and robes. But this was not the camp side of Rick's gender play, with its high heels and glunge (glam and grunge) influences, rather it looked to the priestly garb of old. This had Michèle's touch all over it, and it was great.

One of those collections (and indeed labels) you really have to see in person to understand - the fabrics and detailing were insane. Generally speaking, I really like how personal this feels as a label. It really is a fitting step forward from the final Number (N)ine collection, A Closed Feeling.

3 comments:

M
said...

I love Missoni's knit. Yoji's hakama.

I got know many designer by your blog . I am not fashion person still but your blog let me enjoy very much!

I like the feeling to find new post of your blog. That is always in the morning when I brought breakfast in front of my PC .Breakfast with take look new post of your blog is happy time for me.And photo of yourself make me smile.

Sometimes your essay is very long, and if I can't finish to read in breakfast.Then I read lunch time or I read in subway by iPad(I love iPad ) if I go out .Anyway all I want to say is I love your blog,Syed!