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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010) The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

This http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=536317
It's an older BMW 7 series thread but BMW is still operating CCV with the same principle.So if you remove crankcase vacuum its one more thing to eliminate .As long as those hoses are connected the whole crankcase is under vacuum.As a result any leak (valve covers,oil pan etc)will allow unmetered air into cycle

This is Ernest Graham and I had the same thing happen to my 2005 645ci. It turned out to be one of the ignition coil #6 or #4, I'm not sure I will have to check the work order. It was causing one of the spark plugs to missfire.

Small update on mine. Yesterday I started the car after it sat for about 30 mins and it started idling extremely rough and sounded like a muscle car with a huge cam. It struggled for a few seconds then died, which is the first time its ever done that. I started it again and it again was rough and then smoothed out to its "normal" only slightly rough idle.
I still got no check engine light, but figured there could be at least some pending errors in the system from that so I pulled them and got misfire codes for 2,3 and 7 and a general "multiple misfires" code. So...that tells me at least my problem isn't something that is bank-specific..(cam sensor/vanos/valvetronic sensors...etc). So I'm thinking MAF or maybe crankshaft sensor?

This is Ernest Graham and I had the same thing happen to my 2005 645ci. It turned out to be one of the ignition coil #6 or #4, I'm not sure I will have to check the work order. It was causing one of the spark plugs to missfire.

Again yesterday I got in the car with my wife and on startup it did the same extremely rough idle and the check engine light came on for the first time with the "increased emissions" message in the screen. Running the codes it came up with P0300 "multiple random misfires" and 6 other codes for the individual cylinders that misfired.
Reading up on intermediate lever/shaft issues it seems that is only an issue at cold startup? My car is a build date of 05/05 so I think it's a later build than the effected cars? This has only happened when the car is still warm and has been sitting for about 30 mins. It seems to go away as soon as you give the car some throttle. The idle still isn't perfect, it just got back to the way its always been.

I'm tempted to try a maf....or maybe a crankshaft sensor. Since the misfires are happening on both banks I really am thinking its not something that is bank specific like a cam sensor or something like that.

Haven't really paid attention with the cooler temps..but this morning it was high 40's here and it did seem pretty smooth on startup. Its only after a while that it started getting rougher from time to time.

So I decided to test my MAF theory last night. We have a Range Rover with the older (M62?) 4.4 BMW engine in it. So...I swapped the maf's in them minus the airbox's (that is where the two are different) and fired them each up to see if the 6er got better and if the Rover got worse.
Basically....not any difference with either that I could tell. At least not enough to make me want to spend $200 on a MAF. So...i guess I'll just keep driving and maybe someday it will give me a better SES code that just multiple misfires.

There are 2 things that can cause misfires, fuel & spark. If you have changed the sparkplugs & coils, fuel is most likely your problem. If your fuel is not being delivered properly to the cylinders, you will get multiple random misfires.

Has the intake or fuel rails been removed for any reason? Have the valve cover gaskets been replaced recently? Does the engine have any oil leaks around the valve covers? You can plug the 2 intake hoses on each end at the intake & valve covers. When these ports are sealed off, the engine will have positive internal pressure. If you have a vacuum leak anywhere, the internal pressure will push oil vapors out of the engine. You would be very surprised how much oil vapors will be pushed out around a leaking seal. Do not run the engine very long with the vacuum ports plugged, due to the pressure that will build up inside the engine. You can use some small expandable boat type plugs to seal the ports off. There are a lot of things that can cause your problems, but I do not think these test have been performed. The dealer will not do these easy test, because they would like to repair a big ticket item. Having someone with the proper software, will help point out your problems. Without the proper test equipment, you will be chasing your tail.

1 other item would be to review the operation of the O2 sensors, & your short & long term fuel trims.

Everything I read points to eccentric shaft wear.Ive changed the normal suspects and done a lot of checking.Need to do the GT1 test run on VVT.I can't get my cable working with new laptop.Oh well as someone once said BMW ownership is not for the faint of heart.....or lite in wallet.

Everything I read points to eccentric shaft wear.Ive changed the normal suspects and done a lot of checking.Need to do the GT1 test run on VVT.I can't get my cable working with new laptop.Oh well as someone once said BMW ownership is not for the faint of heart.....or lite in wallet.

DIS would help a lot in narrowing down your problem. Have your valve covers ever been removed, possibly causing damage to the Eccentric shaft sensor? It would be very easy to damage this sensor, ask me how I know! Even when my sensor was damaged, it did not really affect the running of the motor. With the sensor damaged, it went into a default run mode. I did get a code when mine was damaged. The sensor is very expensive to buy new.

I have no codes and many gaskets have been changed.Valve covers ,timing covers,alternator bracket,upper and lower oil pan.Ran great for a year and a half.Guess I will do a compression check next.I read some BMW lit. describing uneven cylinder filling from worn eccentric shaft and or intermediate levers.At HOT or cold idle.

I have no codes and many gaskets have been changed.Valve covers ,timing covers,alternator bracket,upper and lower oil pan.Ran great for a year and a half.Guess I will do a compression check next.I read some BMW lit. describing uneven cylinder filling from worn eccentric shaft and or intermediate levers.At HOT or cold idle.

I remember some post in the past with the #3 cylinder keeper coming loose after changing valve seals that had similar problems. It might be worth a look. INPA would be a very good tool in this case, to measure cylinder performance.

Hi guys. My car is also rough and shaky at itdle...but ONLY when the AC is on. When the AC is off she purrs like a kitten. I cleaned the MAF today as well as reprogrammed the climate module. Seems a bit better after taking her for a quick drive.

Hi guys. My car is also rough and shaky at itdle...but ONLY when the AC is on. When the AC is off she purrs like a kitten. I cleaned the MAF today as well as reprogrammed the climate module. Seems a bit better after taking her for a quick drive.

After allowing the car to sleep and taking her for a drive again the roughness is gone! Ultimately you can throw money at these cars trying to troubleshoot problems and replacing components, but your first investment should be an OBD cable and INPA software.

Okay, my sixer has been in the shop for a couple weeks after the dealership found some pretty severe oil leaks at the timing cover, alternator bracket, and valve cover. This is what they think is leading to the misfires and rough idle, not to mention making a real mess of my engine bay. The dealership recommended a complete reseal of the engine at a substantial cost.

I found an independent BMW master mechanic that is doing the job for half. He is concerned about the eccentric shaft, but so far it looks good. I will know more soon. Here are some pics from the job... very labor intensive. Fingers crossed it's just all the oil leaks causing the problem. I am very surprised that the leaks are this bad on an engine with less than 60k miles on her.

Got the car back and the re-seal was a success no more rough idle. Apparently the oil leaks were so bad it was allowing unmetered air at the gaskets. Purring like a kitten now.

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I have a 2005 645ci with 64,000 miles. I had an oil leaks too on both sides of the car in the driveway. It is getting repaired by an independent repair shop. It had a little rough idle but went away after it warmed up. Seeing the oil in the drive way is really what made me bring it in. How much did you pay your mechanic? I am a woman & all I know is that they are fixing the oil leaks. They warned me it would be pretty labor intensive, @ least 7 hours. They are getting the parts from our local BMW dealer. If they don't find anything else, it will cost me $1600. Does this sound about right? I also had to have one of the coils repaired @ the dealer a while back. The code said increased emissions. That only cost about $300. I also recently had to replace the starter & the battery. That was about $1400. Also had problems with having to keep add coolant. Had to replace hoses etc. That was about $1000. Does this car sound like a lemon. When I bought it it had a year left on the warranty, of course now that it is no longer under the warranty, I have all of these problems.

I have a 2005 645ci with 64,000 miles. I had an oil leaks too on both sides of the car in the driveway. It is getting repaired by an independent repair shop. It had a little rough idle but went away after it warmed up. Seeing the oil in the drive way is really what made me bring it in. How much did you pay your mechanic? I am a woman & all I know is that they are fixing the oil leaks. They warned me it would be pretty labor intensive, @ least 7 hours. They are getting the parts from our local BMW dealer. If they don't find anything else, it will cost me $1600. Does this sound about right? I also had to have one of the coils repaired @ the dealer a while back. The code said increased emissions. That only cost about $300. I also recently had to replace the starter & the battery. That was about $1400. Also had problems with having to keep add coolant. Had to replace hoses etc. That was about $1000. Does this car sound like a lemon. When I bought it it had a year left on the warranty, of course now that it is no longer under the warranty, I have all of these problems.

You might want to check with AutoPom for a quote on a Extended Warranty. They seem to get good reviews. Repairs can be quite expensive a BMW, they like attention!

Getting mine back Monday for same problems + eccentric shaft replacements and inspection. It'll be at the Indy about a month (-1 week for the holidays) so pretty expensive and lengthy repairs. I'll just be happy to have her back. Sa called and they fired her up and she's purring like a kitten now.