Can the masters here give me a tutorial how to use it? Thanks very much.

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I've strung plenty of racquets but never on a crank, you would benefit greatly from spending some time on youtube browsing stringing videos. There are pleeeenty out there, also the manual you get when your machine arrives should be helpful as well.

The only thing different about using a crank is how you pull tension. Place the string in the gripper and turn the crank. You don't know it yet but your real questions are not going to be how to use a crank.

The only thing different about using a crank is how you pull tension. Place the string in the gripper and turn the crank. You don't know it yet but your real questions are not going to be how to use a crank.

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Normally how slow (speed) do you slide the tension head? I heard the actual tension from a LO is lower than a CP, how do you address this?

Sounds like you are picking up that used Neos you mentioned in a different thread. You may also find that the Neos manual is helpful. If you are not getting one with the machine, I suspect several of us on this board can provide you with a pdf of one. Congrats and good luck.

Normally how slow (speed) do you slide the tension head? I heard the actual tension from a LO is lower than a CP, how do you address this? ...

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How slow you turn the crank determines how much stretch you take out of the string befor it locks out. Just do it the same each time. If a LO locks at 60 pounds it will do it over and over and over again. 60 pounds is 60 pounds no matter what it is pulled with. If a CP pulls at a higher tension it is overshoot or out of adjustment.

Here is why a LO normally produces a softer stringbed than a CP. when the tensioner locks out the string is help in the position it was in when the lock out occurred and no FUTHER stretching is done. Just clamp off and you are on to the next string. Nothing wrong with that as it produces a consistent string job.

When a CP pulls tension the stringer must then remove the last clamped string and move the clamps to the string being tensioned and clamp it. All the while while this is being done the CP continues to stretch the string as it relaxes so the string continues to be stretched. If you want to try to duplicate that process with a LO pull more than one time.

If you want you can just pull once. If the string bed is too soft for you increase your tension. First things first though just start stringing and see how you like it when you are more familiar with the machine you can start refining your process to get more consistent. Don't think too much this is fun not work. LOL For some of us.

When a CP pulls tension the stringer must then remove the last clamped string and move the clamps to the string being tensioned and clamp it. All the while while this is being done the CP continues to stretch the string as it relaxes so the string continues to be stretched. If you want to try to duplicate that process with a LO pull more than one time.

Crosses also. When you pull tension with a CP you are still doing some operation to clamp it. All the while while up to the point when the string is clamped the CP is pulling stretch out of the string. In the crosses it is even more as the CP help to overcome friction of the mains.

Crosses also. When you pull tension with a CP you are still doing some operation to clamp it. All the while while up to the point when the string is clamped the CP is pulling stretch out of the string. In the crosses it is even more as the CP help to overcome friction of the mains.

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yes but I, for some reason, was interpreting that you were removing last clamp before clamping next tensioned string on crosses.

Sounds like you are picking up that used Neos you mentioned in a different thread. You may also find that the Neos manual is helpful. If you are not getting one with the machine, I suspect several of us on this board can provide you with a pdf of one. Congrats and good luck.

When I pull the string again, should I clamp it before the 2nd pass, or do the 2nd pass right after the first one?

I am getting a brand new NEOS 1000, act on the advise from one of you. It will be here today and I will share the pictures here. Really excited about this, I can't wait!

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Just pull till lockout, then release the lockout and re-tension without letting the tension off the string (you'll have to barely "back up" to release the L/O). Keep your hand on the crank handle!!!!!!
Clamping each time wouldn't make much sense to me and also would become less consistent perhaps, pending the time you left it clamped.

If you're gonna double pull, develop a repeatable consistent method, just like the other movements made.

When I pull the string again, should I clamp it before the 2nd pass, or do the 2nd pass right after the first one?

I am getting a brand new NEOS 1000, act on the advise from one of you. It will be here today and I will share the pictures here. Really excited about this, I can't wait!

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I watched that video and now I understand why you asked the question. I put the clamp on the string primarily so you could see how much a string relaxes in about 5 seconds. Wth the close up of the clamp and the upper support you can see although the string is relaxing the distance between the support and the clamp never changes. It also enabled me to show you how the string was stretched more. You don't need to clamp your string until after the final pull.

It took me more than 10 minutes to push the tension head handle. Now I am looking to put the clamp in. Stupid? I question myself a few times already. When I pull the clamp bottom wide open, I still can't put it into the glide bar. Is it me or the precision issue? The side screw holding the glide bar are too tight that I don't want to use too much force...

Right now I am having a machine but not able to put them together. Laught, laught, laught hard ... I don't know what is going on.

It took me more than 10 minutes to push the tension head handle. Now I am looking to put the clamp in. Stupid? I question myself a few times already. When I pull the clamp bottom wide open, I still can't put it into the glide bar. Is it me or the precision issue? The side screw holding the glide bar are too tight that I don't want to use too much force...

Right now I am having a machine but not able to put them together. Laught, laught, laught hard ... I don't know what is going on.

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Not sure I understand the tension head issue. Are you sure the locking lever was disenaged? As far as the clamps are concerned, it doesn't sound like you've opened them up completely. See p.5 of the manual--you should be able to flip the clamp latch all the way over and that will open the bottom. Take your time and consult the manual.

There is a spring-base stopper on the rod (attached to the tension head) where the handle attaches. It was so tight that I had a hard time to push the handle in so it can engage (lock).
At the end, I figure out there is a little "gap" so I push the handle downward and let the stopper fit into that gap, then push it in.

As far as installing the clamp is concerned, I have to remove the spring and everything, take the handle off the lock position, then the bottom can be open big enough, now it can be put on to the glide bar without any struggle.

At one point I felt so hopeless, I looked at the packaging box: was it made in china? no, it was made in taiwan. Anyway, it has nothing to do with that, it is such a mechanical marvel that my average IQ felt a little challenge.

Everything looks good. I wish the manual could be more detail.

I plan to give it a test run tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help. I sure will post a few pictures to show off, at one point ...

Not sure I understand the tension head issue. Are you sure the locking lever was disenaged? As far as the clamps are concerned, it doesn't sound like you've opened them up completely. See p.5 of the manual--you should be able to flip the clamp latch all the way over and that will open the bottom. Take your time and consult the manual.

I didn't read many of the replies, so I'm not sure if this was mentioned. The pro at my tennis shop told me he recommends I set the tension about 2-4 lbs higher on a crank to get my desired tension. So I've set the crank to 62lbs if I want ~60lbs tension on my stringbed. Tension has felt great so far.

One thing to be wary of: if you tighten your knot using your crank (some people do this) be careful not to overtighten! I've popped 2 strings on the very last knot because I got too anxious. The reason you'd even consider it is to avoid losing the tension right after your clamp. I'm not sure if it's even worth it.

Now it is fine, so fine that I can take it out easily, don't even need to pull.

Another update: The initial callbration showed that actual tension was 5-7 lbs higher. I strung first time yesterday, tension not adjusted. The feel was kind of werid. I did the calibration a few minutes ago, it takes about 5-8 seconds to settle and is near the reference tension. I am going to string another one later to see if it works.

How much time do people like you take to clamp the string after the tensioner kicks in? I think this time gap will decide the final tension. Right now it takes me about 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp. So it is like 2 seconds or less to slide the tensioner to lock-out position, 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp, is this the right way to approach it?

How much time do people like you take to clamp the string after the tensioner kicks in? I think this time gap will decide the final tension. Right now it takes me about 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp. So it is like 2 seconds or less to slide the tensioner to lock-out position, 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp, is this the right way to approach it?

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It does not matter if it takes you 5 seconds, 5 minutes or five hours. Think about it when the tensioner locks out it is locked and the string is not stretched any more. If you don't clamp it it will lose tension through the relaxation process if you do clamp it the same thing happens.

Different strings stretch and relax differently. All string s will not stretch the same or relax the same. So although your tension may be consistent in the racket for the same string it may not be the same for a hybrid. When in doubt call the manufacturer and ask them how it should work. Pete is the person at Prince you need to talk to and he has been an MRT for a long time. Call Prince and just ask for Pete or tell them you have a stringing question. Their number is 800 2 TENNIS. What do you have to lose?

I strung one racquet on X-2 and another on neos 1000 under the same tension.

While stringmeter's readings were close, the one from neos 1000 appeared to give me better feel. I guess each stringing machine has its own fingerprint, or characterisitc, which reflects in the stringjob.

Irvin, when I set the tensioner @ the lock out tension, the "real" tension I get would be lower, how much lower will depend on the pace between it kicks in and I clamp the string?

It does not matter if it takes you 5 seconds, 5 minutes or five hours. Think about it when the tensioner locks out it is locked and the string is not stretched any more. If you don't clamp it it will lose tension through the relaxation process if you do clamp it the same thing happens.

Different strings stretch and relax differently. All string s will not stretch the same or relax the same. So although your tension may be consistent in the racket for the same string it may not be the same for a hybrid. When in doubt call the manufacturer and ask them how it should work. Pete is the person at Prince you need to talk to and he has been an MRT for a long time. Call Prince and just ask for Pete or tell them you have a stringing question. Their number is 800 2 TENNIS. What do you have to lose?

I strung one racquet on X-2 and another on neos 1000 under the same tension.

While stringmeter's readings were close, the one from neos 1000 appeared to give me better feel. I guess each stringing machine has its own fingerprint, or characterisitc, which reflects in the stringjob.

Irvin, when I set the tensioner @ the lock out tension, the "real" tension I get would be lower, how much lower will depend on the pace between it kicks in and I clamp the string?

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I don't think so. When you turn the crank you will go from 0 lbs of tension to whatever tension you have set on the lockout. The longer it takes the tensioner to lockout the longer the string is stretched. At lockout your tension is set. What you are explaining is how a CP tensioner works. There is a distinct difference.

If you only pull one time with the crank you will end up with a lower tension than the reference tension. The difference between what a lockout does and what a constant pull does is very noticeable as you can attest.

So the resulting tension is most likely determined by the pace the tension head is turned? And I shouldn't worry much about the time between the tension head is locked and the string is clamped?

I ask this because sometime it takes me a second or two longer to clamp the string. I've tried to be consistent in both turning the tension head and clamping the string, but the latter part probably will need some more practice first.

I used an electronic scale when calibrating the machine last night. The tension peaked when the tension head was locked, then started decreasing. The read out became constant after 4-5 seconds.

Because of this, I wonder when I clamp the string might contribute to the final tension I will get, don't know if I worry too much or simply not the case.

I don't think so. When you turn the crank you will go from 0 lbs of tension to whatever tension you have set on the lockout. The longer it takes the tensioner to lockout the longer the string is stretched. At lockout your tension is set. What you are explaining is how a CP tensioner works. There is a distinct difference.

If you only pull one time with the crank you will end up with a lower tension than the reference tension. The difference between what a lockout does and what a constant pull does is very noticeable as you can attest.

tennis4 what you are saying is true. The string will continue to relax forever. It just loses most of its tension in the first 4-5 seconds. That is why if you pull again after 5 seconds you can recover that tension loss.

One important point about the lockout is that at lockout the tension does not move any further. The string is just held. It does not matter if it is held by the tensioner or held by a clamp.