hans wrote:about the lights to be on always:
been testing and also made the mod.
when you connect a switch to the yellow dots,you can turn them on.
at these points they burn not at full power,but enough for constant lightning,they give a nice gentle green glow.

small edit.
i also marked the points if you want the leds go at full power(red dots,left red and left yellow are the same point)

Hey, have you noticed with this mod. if you click the light on the next pressure reading will make it drop about .4.. even with usb powered it still drops down for me, soon as i click the light off the pressure will pop back up at its next reading to where it was before i turned the light on

on my unit the pressure stays as it is when i switch on the light.
though i only have the leds on half power.
if the drop happens at full power then it probably drains to much and the pressure sensor reacts to it.
you could try to use a resistor between a full power lead and the switch,the value you have to experiment with to see at what value(+/- 100 ohm) the pressure doesn't react anymore.

if it happens at half power,try the same,though mine holds it just fine.

I've had a davis weather station for just under a year now since the Fine offset. Been the best step up.. When plugged in to AC there is a feature to have the back-light on all the time. but down the bottom of the page it says... Note: When the console receives power from the AC adapter, the backlight remains on
until it is toggled off. Leaving the backlight on raises the inside temperature reading
and lowers the inside humidity reading.

So for Davis to warn us about this it must be a common thing.. either temp/humidity/pressure changes when a back-light is introduced .

Darknstormy wrote:Leaving the backlight on raises the inside temperature reading and lowers the inside humidity reading.

Hi,

Finally, I've taken the trouble to measure the power taken by the FO console from the USB cable and it's 40mA (200mW) normally (probably mainly for the relay) and 52mA (260mW) when the LEDs are illuminated. So actually, the main self-heating effect occurs as soon as you plug it into your computer (to use Cumulus) and the effect of using the backlight, even continuously, is hardly significant. The normal self-heating seems to be about 1.5 degrees C, but I haven't been too worried as it brings the indicated temperature closer (probably by chance) to my other room thermometers.

However, I'm more concerned that the response time seems so long (perhaps two hours for the self-heating to stabilise) so I'm seriously considering aspirating the console! Computer fans as small as 25 mm square (for cooling the processors themselves) are available very cheaply from ebay. My current thoughts are to build a circuit board "module" which fits into the AA battery compartment and carries the fan, a rechargeable LiIon battery and the necessary control/charging circuitry. Unfortunately a few modifications also will be required inside the console, to pick up the USB power and to permanently supply the backlight (when on external power).

I wonder what the possibilities are for the addition of extra sensors to a standard setup. In my case an Elecsa AstroTouch 6975 (Fine Offset WH-108?) with temp, humidity, rain, air pressure, DCF radio controled clock, wind-speed and direction-sensors.
Is it possible to add a sun radiation sensor or a UV sensor to the others?
The standard EasyWeather program misses the necessary options, so it appears from the lack in the manufacturers software that nothing can be added in the hadware either, but is this really not possible?

If it has a DCF clock then it's probably the 1080 equivalent (the 1081 has no DCF).

However, I believe that the hardware AND firmware (wireless protocol) of the solar versions (WH308x) are different, so there is no possibility of adding the solar sensors to a standard unit. See this current thread where we are (probably) discussing a related issue.

But keep a watch on the "Homebuilt" section here, where I may be starting a relevant project thread soon.

That ends that thought very quickly, but thanks anyway!
So in order to get solar readings I'd have to buy another station. I am not against homebuilt gear but haven't got the time for it right now, so I might go for a ready made set with the solar sensor included.

The WH3080/1 (FO Solar) does have a few worthwhile improvements, but before purchasing one, please do read some of the threads on this forum concerning them. In addition to their present reliability issues, the Solar Pod is permanently attached to the transmitter's solar screen, which IMHO makes it almost impossible to get satisfactory readings for both solar AND temperature at the same time.

Hi, does anyone know the exact part number for the Holtek USB IC, it looks like its HT82M something but it's not clear from the photo. I have a cunning plan to get a better update rate on the wind speed and direction sensors (I'm not too bothered on update rate for the other sensors) but need to know a bit more about that IC before I can decide whether my plan is viable.