Cho Oyu Expedition

IMA Cho Oyu Expedition-Mount Cho-Oyu Camp 1 view

IMA Cho Oyu Expedition-Cho Oyu Base camp

IMA Cho Oyu Expedition-Cho Oyu camp 1

IMA Cho Oyu Expedition-Cho Oyu tent view in camp 1

About IMA Cho Oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu Expedition, to the sixth highest mountain in the world (8201m), is considered the easiest of all 8000m peaks, despite of its high altitude. Cho Oyu normal route is via the north-west Ridge. It is a semi-technical climb with minor ice cliffs, big snowfields and little objective danger.

Departures

Spring 2016:

Apr Cancelled by CMA

Autumn 2016:

Sep 4

Description

Itinerary

Services

FAQS

Gear

Map

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About IMA Cho Oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu Expedition, to the sixth highest mountain in the world (8201m), is considered the easiest of all 8000m peaks, despite of its high altitude. Cho Oyu normal route is via the north-west Ridge. It is a semi-technical climb with minor ice cliffs, big snowfields and little objective danger. IMA offers a safe, interesting and stimulating climbing, with Sherpa guides we train in technical western style climbing, Mountaineering First Aid and Crevasse Rescue.

We climb Cho Oyu from Tibet, after the five day overland trip from Kathmandu to the Chinese base camp. On the way we acclimatize during stops in Nylam, Tingri and Chinese Basecamp. Two days acclimatization trek takes us to the Cho Oyu ABC (5700m). We will spend 23 days committed to summit objective, with multiple equipment and supplies carry over and acclimatization climbs to camp 1, 2 and 3, before attempting the summit.

IMA offers quality service to ensure safety, comfort and support level maximising chances of successful summit. The quality here means, private transport to the base camp in a comfortable SUV, experienced crew in the ABC and nutritious menu prepared for customer taste, with as much of fresh vegies as possible. Meals are freshly cooked, with snacks and drinks available 24 hours a day. Quality Ozark personal tents, spacious and comfortable dining tent, with functional and comfortable furniture, efficient heater, and pump assisted showers are part of our basecamp service.

Our guides are experienced and qualified young Sherpas from Kanchenjunga area. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical western style climbing, as well as English, customer service and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. We provide modern quality climbing gear and equipment, such as GPS units and altimeters, to our guiding staff, and teach them how to use it.

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu | Transfer

Day 2-3: Kathmandu Rest | Preparation

Day 4: Drive to Kodari | Zhangmu

Day 5-6: Drive to Naylam | Acclimatization

Day 7-8: Drive to Tingri | Acclimatization

Day 9: Drive to Chinese Basecamp

Day 10-11: Chinese Basecamp | Acclimatization

Day 12-13: Trek to Cho Oyu ABC

Day 14-35: Cho Oyu Climbing Period

Day 36-38: Return to Kathmandu

Day 39: Kathmandu | Free Day

Day 40: Airport Transfer | Departure

Your adventure price includes:

Airport Welcome | Transfers

Accommodation in Kathmandu

Full board lodging (B/L/D) Kodari-BC-Kodari

Group Chinese visa fee | Cho Oyu Climbing Permit | Taxes

Private transport Kathmandu-BC-Kathmandu

Truck for expedition equipment | provisions KTM-BC-KTM

Chinese custom clearances at the border

Chinese Liaison officer and interpreter

Yaks to carry the loads BC-ABC-BC

Expedition Sherpa Guide|Sirdar Climb Manager

Experienced professional high altitude climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio at U$5940

Infinite Mountain Adventure (IMA) operates Cho Oyu expedition in spring and autumn seasons. IMA Cho Oyu mountaineering expedition offers a great introduction to 8000m climbing in a safe and quality environment. Cho Oyu climb is a serious physiological undertaking with snow ridge climb and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no climbing or mountaineering experience required, just high level of endurance fitness. IMA will provide guided preparations for our clients.

Our guides are experienced and qualified young Sherpas from Kanchenjunga area. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. So apart of professionalism you can expect warmth and genuine hospitality of Sherpa and Tibetan culture.

3. What is experience level of your staff?
Our staff is young, energetic and experience in customer relationship and technical climbing through our training program and practical experience. Our climbers are the only guides trained in western style climbing, critical thinking and ethical behaviour. Our guides are our business partners and participate in profit sharing scheme.

Absolutely not, all your gear will be delivered to the ABC (Advanced basecamp) by Yaks from the Chinese Basecamp. If you hire personal guide he will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2 and 3, setup your tents and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light load to high camps.

We employ trained high altitude cook. In the kitchen we attempt to provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible. Cook will have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favourites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavours of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In high camps we use freeze dry packet food from 'Country Kitchen' a New Zealand company. They offer variety of flavours, good quality and tasty meals. Your Sherpa climbing guide will also melt sufficient ice for hot water.

The ABC is located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are also very safe however camp 1 location has to be chosen wisely because some parts are prone to heavy snow accumulation during heavy snowfalls. Camp 3 is located below yellow bands and on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.

All foreign visitors to Nepal with exception of Indian nationals require Nepali visa. Passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, United States and all European countries are eligible for the visa on arrival. Since spring 2015 Nepali Immigration has introduced computerized automated visa system making arrival Immigration process fast and convenient. For Shishapangma expedition you will need 1 week visa on arrival and 1 week visa on departure. If you are going to leave Nepal within 2 days you may request free transit visa.

We will take a jeep to Kodari Tibetan boarder, from where our host CMA (Chinese Mountaineering Association) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri on the way to the Chinese basecamp and back to the border. After 2 days acclimatization rest it will take 2 days trekking to arrive to the ABC (Advanced basecamp) with the luggage carried by yaks to and from the ABC.

Yes the permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the basecamp provided by CMA (Chinese Mountaineering Association). CMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

Yes our representative will pick you up from the International airport and will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor time of your arrival and we will be there on-time. All you need to do is to collect your luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International terminal is very small. Once you outside the building you see your name displayed by our representative, who will transfer to the hotel.

In Kathmandu we use newly build Hotel De Veda, which meets earthquake proof building code and is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet CMA provides transport and accommodation service between the border and the base camp. The accommodation is very basic in Tibetan style lodges but due to CMA monopoly we have absolutely no control over that. As part of the service they will provide 3 meals a day and these are very good Chinese style.

Yes you need 2 sleeping bags, one for the base camp -20°C and one for high camps -30°C. You may want to use -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri if you feel uncomfortable with blankest provided by the hotel.

Simply click on GEAR TAB, where you find recommended Gear List. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com.

We recommend purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from Keamp8848 in Kathmandu. We use their gear as our personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands but for fraction of the cost. If you require down suit you will need to order it one month prior to your arrival. Please contact us and we will assist you with the order.

IMA recommends quality over price for comfort and safety and long term savings. Quality can be expensive but it doesn't have to be if one select right gear from right OEM. Naturally there is budget advantage of buying from quality Nepali OEM and you will pay 25-50% for similar or better designed Nepali gear comparing to leading US or European brands. We use and recommend Keamp8848 for quality, innovative design and the price. Your guide will direct you to Keamp8848 factory showroom in Thamel located only 5 minutes' walk from hotel De Veda. You should consider purchasing your Gore-Tex climbing/trekking jacket, Gore-Tex over pants, Fleece jacket and down jacket in Kathmandu. Another Nepali OEM to consider is Sonam brand, which has comparable pricing to Keamp8848, however quality of fabric is different and it lacks innovative design features of Keamp8848.

Climbing hardware is readily available in numerous trekking/climbing stores in Kathmandu, so you don't need to bring them on the plane and save the weight of your luggage. We will advise you details within you info pack.

While climbing and trekking in any mountainous undulating environment and in particularly at high altitudes where the weather is also a subject to rapid changes one needs to adopt layering principle with clothing to regulate body temperature ensuring that the body temperature stays in comfortable range to prevent excessive sweating followed by rapid cooling. When you start the day wear sufficient number of layers to keep warm but as soon as you feel overheating remove a layer on the go quickly to prevent unnecessary overheating and sweating.

Take advantage of Merino Wool as a first layer

For layer one garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilizes the best quality material. No other company can at this stage (spring 2015) match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breathing-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm.

The process of taking the moisture away from the body is called wicking. Wool and synthetic fabrics are really good wicking materials hence they are very suitable to wear for hard physical activity such as trekking, mountain biking and climbing. Due to its natural nano-tube construction wool has also antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is Himalayan biking, climbing and trekking. Using cotton shirts for high altitude biking, trekking or climbing is a wrong and dangerous approach, which can lead to hypothermia.

There are few options. Some of our clients take advantage of our Chulu climb scheduled in spring just before the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma expedition. This will give you acclimatization to 6400m, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp2 on Cho Oyu or Shishapangma. If you don't have time or resources you will acclimatize during the trip from the border to the base camp. After arriving to Zanghmu take the hike along the road to the top of the town, it will give you 200m altitude boost. In Nylam there are two hills where you can acclimatise to 5000m and similar in Tingri. Hiking up 600-800m and returning to the town is the best and the safest way to acclimatize providing one avoids exhaustion. This will ensure excellent preparation for good acclimatization for the ABC.

The Cho Oyu climb consists of serious of acclimatization climbs to camp1 and camp2 followed by the summit campaign. These climbs will also serve as carry-over of food and camping equipment to set-up high camps. You will spend about 5-6 nights in camp1 on the way to camp2 and the summit. The trek to camp2 is long from the basecamp and we will use camp1 as a rest/transition camp. We will spend 4-5 nights in camp2 and one night in camp3 on the summit attempt. You have an option to attempt summit from Camp2 if you feel strong or from camp 3, where you will stop for a rest.

The risks during the Cho Oyu climb are potential to develop AMS, gastric problems or physical injury such as bleeding or frostbites. IMA maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. We have appropriately equipped and up-to-dated First Aid Kit and train staff how to use it effectively. We require each group member to have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite. If required we activate emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet and all rescues are by car and maybe fly-out from Lhasa depending on circumstances.

There are some risks associated with natures' activities such as excessive unseasonal snowfall or landslide blocking the path and potential earthquake. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our adventure, which includes double back-up communication channels to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency.

In case of road block during to massive landslide or earthquake we will evacuate the expedition members via by plane through Lhasa. Such a case is considered emergency evacuation due to natural disaster and the price of airfare should be covered by your travel insurance.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compering to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

Acute Altitude Sickness (AMS) is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.

Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 2,800 metres (9,200ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude thus it is vital you monitor your own health. In principle higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.

Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

Breathlessness

A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatise and avoid altitude sickness by:

Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body

Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates

Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine

Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion

Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m

Sleep at a lower altitude when possible

Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?

Most travellers are able to successfully acclimatise by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.

Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor your all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS.We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help you to carry your day pack or change a pace, take extra day rest or descent if necessary.

Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

Cho Oyu expedition is a very serious physiological undertaking with some technical aspect. You should be in general good physical shape to start with. Generally our customers for Cho Oyu expedition are bike riders or recreational runners and many test themselves with occasional 10km city fun runs or 50km mountain bike rides or 100km road rides. Considerable number of clients have at some stage completed marathon run. You don't need to be competitive just to be able to complete run or ride within average event time. If you completed one of the above within last 6 months you are well pre-qualifying and ready for Cho Oyu expedition.
If you are in a good shape, the only thing you have to do now is 3 month ramp-up before the adventure. You should aim to jog three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain continuous exercise. To prepare for that you should preference outdoor step training or riding hills minimum twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more enjoyable the ride will be and you will also get more benefits out of the adventure.

There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

WHY DO IT?...

Part of doing the adventure is the aspect of motivation, and setting your goals and meeting them. The adventure participation will be beneficial to you in all aspects of your personal and professional endeavours. Our exercise suggestions are designed for you get fitter and hopefully influence your healthy lifestyle as result of the ride.

The adventure is scheduled during spring and autumn with the climbing window scheduled for monsoon change period, where wind stops at 8000m for a week or so before the monsoon changes direction. Please check average temperature and precipitation in Tingri here.

The difference between spring and autumn expedition is change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to cold respectively.

Absolutely, we welcome individual travellers on our fixed departure but we reserve the right to cancel the departure due to insufficient participation and to offer alternative departure. We require a minimum group of 4 participants. Naturally we will offer group prices for people joining as a group. Our adventure calculator will show you adventure of joining us together with friends.

Complete the booking form on the adventure page, select size of your group and required services and find out price for your group. Simply click on BOOK/INQUIRE button and give us required details. We will send you invoice for the deposit of 30% of the trip value. After paying deposit for the trip we will send you booking confirmation and Cho Oyu Climbing Information. The balance is due 2 months prior departure. The deposit as well as the balance may be paid by bank money transfer or by Credit Card via secure PayPal system.

Simply complete BOOKIG/INQUIRE form and specify information you require in the message and we will engage with you by e-mail or if you prefer we will call you at the time convenient to you.

IMA Cho Oyu expedition is scheduled during spring and autumn, when the weather is typically good with sunny days as we climb in high desert area with Basecamp temperatures close to freezing during the day and subfreezing during the night. The basecamp is located above 5000m and is subject to mountain weather with possible snow storms and unexpected cold snaps and unseasonal weather.

You will require appropriate Gore-Tex windproof jacket, over pants and down gear including down jacket and down pants or full down suit for the climb. You will also require down sleeping bag for the basecamp and for high camps.

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