Lucky SHD 100

I am trying out Lucky SHD 100 film in 120 size for the first time and need developing info.

The developers I have are Rodinal, Rodinal Special, Tmax and Claytons F76+. Any times for these would be appreciated. I have checked digitaltruth.com and it shows a time for Rodinal 1:25 but I would prefer 1:50.

I haven't use SHD 100. I was pretty happy with the SHD 400, but in 6x9 cm, the grain isn't a big issue, for the most part. However, I develop in HC-110, for the most part, and Rodinal does tend to exaggerate grain. I do quite like Fomapan; I might also suggest the J&C Pro 100 in 120 is quite nice, though you do need to watch temperature very carefully and avoid acid stop bath (use 2 or 3 changes of plain water, matching temperature, instead), and there is no less expensive 120 film anywhere. Carry some masking tape when shooting Pro 100 -- the end tapes applied at the factory are completely useless (or were in the last batch I bought -- can't speak for current production).

Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

It's a great film! It has a unique character, especially the way it handle the highlights! My EI is 80 iso and I develop it in D-76 1+1 for 8 minutes, 20 C. When using Rodinal, I usually end up doing stand development procedures, usually 2 hours (1+200) when exposed at 80-100 iso.

With the limited info I had to go on, I worked out an estimate of 12 minutes for a 1:50 Rodinal dilution and the negs look good. I am going to try my second roll at 1:200 for 2 hours as mentioned by abeku.

I agree with abeku that its a great film. I shoot at ISO 100, develop in D-76 (i develop for 7mins), and hte results are wonderful. The film yeilds nice thick negaives with good contrast, decent grain, and good grey tones. It handles highlights interestingly, due to its ineffective anti-halo layer, the highlights range from normal to an HIE-like effect, with glowing highlights that bleed into the surrounding areas. And, as Donald mentioned, in 6x9 cm (which I shoot as well), the grain is no problem whatsoever.

Just a reccomendation: load hte camera in subdued light, as the film base is quite clear, and hte anti-halo layer is poor, you may get some light-piping that can cause odd effects ...

I'm shooting SHD 400 sometimes, for experiments. Grain is ok for 400 speed film, at least better than Agfa APX-400.
My default stand development time in Rodinal 1:100 is 1 hour. (very little agitation)
I do not found any differences in SHD 100 and SHD 400. Maybe except little bit less grain in SHD 100.

Downside is, that you can easily blow out highlights, because of lack of anti-hallation layer.

Film base curls a lot, and this can be major headache when scanning this film

Downside is, that you can easily blow out highlights, because of lack of anti-hallation layer.

- That's the major reason why I'm using this film every now and then. "The bleeding" can be used in a creative way and the effect can be enhanced by pull development. An exemple of the blown out highlights.

With the limited info I had to go on, I worked out an estimate of 12 minutes for a 1:50 Rodinal dilution and the negs look good. I am going to try my second roll at 1:200 for 2 hours as mentioned by abeku.

Well the second roll also looks good so I can't wait to print both and compare.