Abstract:

The present invention relates to the field of hair coloring. More
specifically, the present invention relates to a method of pre-treating
hair prior to the application of a hair colorant. The method comprises
the steps of applying a pre-treatment composition, comprising a monoalkyl
quat, a cellulose thickener, and a quaternary silicone, on all the hair
and leaving the pre-treatment composition on the hair, without rinsing it
off prior to the application of the colorant.

Claims:

1. A method of pre-treating hair prior to the application of a hair
colorant comprising the steps of applying a pre-treatment composition on
all the hair, said composition comprising a monoalkyl quat, a cellulose
thickener, and a quaternary silicone, and leaving the pre-treatment
composition on the hair, without rinsing it off prior to the application
of the colorant.

2. The method of claim 1 wherein the monoalkyl quat is selected from the
group consisting of cetrimonium chloride, soytrimonium chloride, and
behenetrimethylammonium chloride.

3. The method of claim 1 wherein the cellulose thickener is selected from
the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose,
and hydroxymethylcellulose.

4. The method of claim 1 wherein the quaternary silicone is quaternium-80.

5. The method of claim 1 wherein the monoalkyl quat is present at a
concentration of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the composition.

6. The method of claim 1 wherein the cellulose thickener is present at a
concentration of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the composition.

7. The method of claim 1 wherein the quaternary silicone is present at a
concentration of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the composition.

Description:

[0002]The present invention relates to the field of hair coloring. More
specifically, the present invention relates to a method of pre-treating
hair prior to the application of a hair colorant.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0003]The coloring of hair is widely practiced and has grown in popularity
in recent years. The growing popularity of hair coloring has been
addressed by a number of different commercial hair colorant products.
These products, however, all suffer from a number of drawbacks. Sometimes
hair color does not penetrate the hair fibers evenly, resulting in an
uneven hair color. Hair color may also fade over time, such that the
color becomes less vibrant and chromatic over time. Also, frequent
coloring of hair (i.e., to address fading) may damage the hair.
Frequently colored hair may be more dry and fragile. Furthermore, these
drawbacks may be accentuated in certain types of hair, i.e., gray hair.
Certain types of hair may be less penetrable to color. For example, gray
hair is sometimes more difficult to color and the initial color is
sometimes more difficult to maintain.

[0004]Many attempts have been made to address these drawbacks of hair
coloring. Some hair coloring treatments include post-treatment
conditioners designed to seal in first-day color and shine, as well as
condition colored hair. Other hair coloring treatments include a glaze,
which is intended for regular (i.e., weekly) use between coloring
treatments, to seal in color, increase shine, and condition hair. Such
glazes are also sold as stand-alone products. Pre-treatments designed to
protect hair, especially dry and fragile hair ends, have also been used
in the past. Hair ends are usually more porous than hair closer to the
scalp, and, therefore, hair ends absorb more color and bleach than hair
closer to the scalp. Pre-treatments protect overly-porous hair from
over-bleaching and over-coloring. Many such pre-treatments contain a
silicone, such as dimethicone, which coats the hair, filling in damaged
areas, adds gloss, and provides a smooth surface to ease combing. The use
of a post-treatment conditioner containing silicone can contribute to
healthier-looking hair, by providing a shiny and smooth silicone coating
on the hair. The intent of currently available pre-treatments is to
deliver a coating of silicone to prevent color from over-penetrating the
hair shaft at the ends. Such pre-treatments are used to prevent colorant
from over-penetrating more porous areas of the hair, such as the ends.
Furthermore, such pre-treatments are not typically applied to virgin
hair, i.e., roots, because they tend to inhibit color uptake.

[0005]Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a hair treatment that
will allow hair color to penetrate hair fibers evenly. There is also a
need for a hair treatment that will reduce fading and provide for
longer-lasting color, thereby obviating the need for frequent coloring.
There is also a need for hair treatment that will allow hair color to
better penetrate less porous, color resistant hair, such as gray hair.

[0006]None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits
of the present invention.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0007]The present invention is directed to a method of pre-treating hair
prior to the application of a hair colorant comprising the steps of
applying a pre-treatment composition, which comprises a monoalkyl quat, a
cellulose thickener, and a quaternary silicone compound, to every hair,
and leaving the pre-treatment composition on the hair, without rinsing it
off prior to the application of colorant.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008]While the specification concludes with claims which particularly
point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present
invention will be better understood from the following description.

[0009]All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of
the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified.
All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the
active level and, therefore, do not include solvents or by-products that
may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise
specified. The term "weight percent" may be denoted as "wt. %" herein.
Except as otherwise noted, all amounts, including part, percentages, and
proportions, are understood to be modified by the word "about."

[0011]Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients
which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses
the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of". The
compositions and methods/processes of the present invention can comprise,
consist of, and consist essentially of the elements and limitations of
the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or
optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.

[0012]As used herein, the term "hair" refers to keratinous fibers on a
living, e.g. a person, or non-living body, e.g. in a wig, hairpiece, or
other aggregation of non-living keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably
human, hair is preferred. Hair, wool, fur, and other keratinous fibers
are suitable substrates for coloring by the compounds and compositions
described herein.

[0013]According to the method of the present invention, a pre-treatment is
applied to all hair that is elected to be colored and left on the hair,
without rinsing prior to the application of colorant. The pre-treatment
composition of the present invention comprises a monoalkyl quat, a
cellulose thickener, and a quaternary silicone compound.

Monoalkyl Quat

[0014]The pre-treatment compositions of the present invention may comprise
one or more monoalkyl quats. Monoalkyl quats may be compounds of the
formula N+R1R2R3R4X.sup.-, wherein R1,
R2, and R3 are C1-C3 alkyl groups, R4 is a C14 or greater
alkyl group, typically C16 to C22, and X.sup.- is chloride, bromide,
methosulfate, ethosulfate, nitrate or tosylate.

[0019]In some embodiments, the cellulose thickener is selected from the
group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and
hydroxymethylcellulose.

[0020]The concentration of cellulose thickener in the composition
generally ranges from about 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.25 to 5%, more
preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.

Quaternary Silicone

[0021]The composition of the present invention further comprises a
quaternary silicone, or a silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups.
Quaternary silicones include silicones containing one or more quaternary
ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups may be attached in the
alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups. They may be
attached directly to the polysiloxane backbone or they may be carried by
hydrocarbon chains. Suitable quaternary silicones have the following
general formula:

##STR00001##

where n ranges from 0 to 500, preferably 0 to 100, q ranges from 0 to 20,
preferably 0, the R1 group represents a linear or branched
C1-C30 alkyl group or phenyl group, preferably a methyl group,
the R2 groups, which may be identical or different, represent

--CcH2c--O--(C2H4O)a--(C3H6O)b--R.-
sub.5 or

--CcH2c--O--(C4H8O)a--R5

where, with respect to both of the above formulae for R2, a ranges
from 0 to 50, preferably 0, b ranges from 0 to 50, preferably 0, c ranges
from 0 to 4, preferably 2 or 3, and R5 represents:

##STR00002##

where f ranges from 0 to 4, preferably 3, g ranges from 0 to 2 and is
preferably equal to 1, the radical R8 represents a linear or
branched C1-C22 alkyl or C2-C22 alkenyl radical,
optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or, more preferably, R8
represents the group CH2NHCOR9, R6, R7, and R9,
which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched
C1-C22 alkyl or C2-C22 alkenyl radicals, optionally
bearing one or more OH groups, or R7 may form with a portion of
R8 a heterocycle (especially imidazoline). Preferably, R6 and
R7 denote C1-C6 alkyl radicals, more preferably methyl
radicals, and R9 preferably denotes a radical selected from the
group consisting of C8-C18 alkyls and C8-C18
alkenyls, preferably a cocoyl radical. A.sup.- represents a monovalent
mineral or organic anion, such as a halide, a sulfate, or a carboxylate
(i.e., acetate, lactate or citrate).

[0022]Such silicones include quaternium-80 and are sold, for example, by
the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3272, Abil B 9905, Abil
Quat 3474 and Abil K 3270, by the company Lipo France, under the names
Silquat Q-100, Silquat Q-200 WS, Silquat AX, Silquat AC, Silquat AD and
Silquat AM, all manufactured by the company Siltech, by the company OSI
under the name Magnasoft Exhaust and Silsoft C-880, and by the company
UCIB under the names Pecosil 14-PQ and Pecosil 36-PQ (manufactured by
Phoenix Chemical). These quaternary silicones are described especially in
patents EP 530 974, DE 3 719 086, DE 3 705 121, EP 617 607 and EP 714
654.

[0023]The silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups used in
accordance with the invention can be in the form of aqueous solutions, in
the form of dispersions or emulsions in water, etc.

[0024]In the compositions of the present invention, the quaternary
silicones are present at a concentration of from about 0.1 to about 10%,
preferably about 0.25 to about 5% by weight of the composition.

[0025]Without being bound to any particular theory, it is believed that
the application of the pre-treatment composition alters the surface
charge and hydrophobicity of hair, both virgin hair and damaged hair.
This is believed to affect the balance of hair dye components that
penetrate into the hair fibers. Additionally, the use of the
pre-treatment prior to the application of colorant alters the physical
characteristics of the hair. Specifically, the application of the
pre-treatment makes the hair more pliable, allowing for improved contact
between the hair and dye components.

[0026]The application of the pre-treatment composition is believed to
increase dye penetration, especially penetration into non-porous, coarse
gray hair. The application of the pre-treatment therefore optimizes color
delivery, providing for a more chromatic and vibrant initial color and
longer-lasting color, i.e., longer-lasting gray coverage. A more
saturated color reduces strand to strand variation and contributes to
even coloring. Also, because the pre-treatment is applied to all the
hair, i.e., roots to ends, it is easier to apply than traditional
pre-treatments, which are applied only to the hair ends.

Additional Components

[0027]The pre-treatment compositions of the present invention may comprise
other quaternary amines, in addition to the monoalkyl quats described
above. Suitable such quaternary amines include ester quats and dialkyl
quats. Dialkyl quats may be compounds of the formula
N+R5R6R7R8X.sup.-, wherein R5 and R6
are C1-C3 alkyl groups and R7 and R8 are C14 or greater alkyl
groups, generally C14-C22 alkyl groups, typically C16-C18 alkyl groups,
and X.sup.- is chloride, bromide, methosulfate, ethosulfate, nitrate,
acetate, phosphate; or tosylate.

[0030]The pre-treatment compositions of the present invention may be sold
separately or preferably as part of a coloring kit (i.e., a kit including
a dye component and an oxidizing component), provided as a further
individually packaged component in a separate container. The
pre-treatment composition is applied on all the hair that is to be
colored and left on the hair for about 1 to about 5 minutes.
Subsequently, the hair colorant is applied on the pre-treated hair,
without first rinsing and removing the pre-treatment composition.

Test Method

[0031]Preparation

[0032]Testing is performed on hair tresses. Hair tresses used for testing
are purchased from International Hair Importers, Jamaica, N.Y., US. Each
hair tress is 6 inches in length, 1.5 grams in weight, and comprised of
100% natural white hair (commonly known as gray hair).

[0033]6 natural white hair tresses are dyed following pre-treatment with
the composition of the invention, 6 natural white hair tresses are dyed
following pre-treatment with a composition known in the prior art
(current Nice n' Easy Grey Solutions Pre-treatment, Composition B in
Table 1), and 6 natural white hair tresses are dyed following no
pre-treatment, all using the same dye, to evaluate the pre-treatments.
For example, 6 natural white tresses are dyed with Nice n' Easy Grey
Solutions Medium Blonde 8 following pre-treatment with Composition A (see
Table 1), 6 natural white hair tresses are dyed with Nice n' Easy Grey
Solutions Medium Blonde 8 following pre-treatment with Composition B, and
6 natural white hair tresses are dyed with Nice n' Easy Grey Solutions
Medium Blonde 8 following no pre-treatment.

[0035]Hair is placed onto a plastic weigh boat. 0.5 grams
pre-treatment/gram of hair is applied using a syringe. The amount of
pretreatment is monitored using a top loading balance. The pretreatment
product is worked into the hair (all the hair, roots to ends), by hand
(with gloves on the hands), for 30 seconds, using 40 strokes per second.
The pretreatment is left on the hair for approximately 2 minutes.

[0036]Dyeing Procedure

[0037]Hair is placed onto a plastic weigh boat and then placed onto a
top-loading balance. A dye component, i.e., color creme from a Nice n'
Easy Grey Solutions coloring kit, and an oxidizing component, i.e., Grey
Solutions activating creme containing hydrogen peroxide developer, are
mixed in a 1:1 ratio. The mixture is shaken until completely blended. 4
grams of colorant composition/gram of hair is applied to the hair. The
amount of colorant composition is monitored using a top-loading balance
readout. The colorant composition is worked into the hair tresses by hand
(with gloves on the hands) and massaged to provide complete coverage. All
the hair of the tress is covered with dye and the dye is worked into the
hair, until all the hair is completely and evenly covered. Tresses are
then hung on holders to facilitate distribution of the product through
the hair. To ensure an even coating of dye on the surface of a tress,
fingers are gently run along the surface of the tress from top to bottom,
as the tress hangs on the holder. Tresses are then placed (in a weigh
boat) into a vented, 30-32° C., no or low air-flow oven. Tresses
are left in the oven to dye for about 25 minutes, which is measured using
a stop clock.

[0038]Rinsing of Dye Composition

[0039]Rinse water temperature is set to about 37° C.±1°
C. and the flow-rate is set to 4-7 L/min. Dyed hair tresses are removed
from the oven and hung on holders over a sink. Using a mounted shower
spray attachment, tresses are rinsed for about 2 minutes, while being
gently stroked (about 20 strokes total). Multiple tresses are rinsed at
the same time. After rinsing, tresses are squeezed between fingers to
remove excess water (one stroke), starting at the top of each tress.

[0040]Application of Post-Treatment Conditioner

[0041]0.2 grams of Nice n' Easy Grey Solutions in-box post-treatment
conditioner is applied per gram of hair to each tress and down the length
of each tress. The conditioner is massaged into the hair with gloved
fingers using a stroking motion (40 strokes total, for about 30 seconds).
The conditioner is left on the hair for about 2 minutes.

[0042]Rinsing of Post-Treatment Conditioner

[0043]Rinse water temperature is set to about 37° C.±1°
C. and the flow-rate is set to about 4-7 L/min. Using a mounted shower
spray attachment, tresses are rinsed for about 30 seconds, while gently
stroking the conditioner out of the hair (20 strokes total). Multiple
tresses are rinsed at the same time. After rinsing, starting at the top
of each tress, the tresses are squeezed between fingers to remove excess
water (one stroke).

[0044]Drying of Dyed Tresses

[0045]Tresses are placed onto a clean paper towel and blotted gently.
Tresses are then hung from a holder and blown dry, on high heat and high
fan speed, with the blow dryer about 12 inches from tresses, for about
1.5 minutes (while using fingers to separate the hair). If needed,
tresses are brushed gently, twice. The tresses are then turned on the
holder, to expose the side of the tresses that didn't receive blow
drying, and dried for another 1.5 minutes, while fingers are used to
separate the hair.

[0046]Color Measurements

[0047]Instrumental color readings are performed within 24 hours of drying
the hair. Color Fade is measured with d/8 spectrophotometry, using a
Minolta CM3600 Spectrophotometer. Readings are presented using the C.I.E.
Scale for color measurements, or the CIE L*a*b* Color Space. In the CIE
L*a*b* Color Space, the chromaticity values of L, a, and b are employed,
where the L value represents the amount of whiteness or blackness present
in the color (decreasing values indicating darker colors), the a value
corresponds to the color position on the red-green axis, and the b value
corresponds to the color position on the yellow-blue axis (the greater
the a value the more reddish the color appears and the lesser the b value
the more blue/less yellow the color appears). In order to further
quantify the measurements taken, the following equation was employed,
which defines the overall loss of color as DE or ΔE:

ΔE= [(Lf-Li)2+(af-ai)2+(bf-bi)2]

where i=initial value and f=final measurement.

[0048]Percent reflectance measurements are calculated to determine the
chromaticity of the hair (PES Lighting). The chromaticity of the hair
(C*) is a measure of the color saturation or intensity of the hair color.

[0049]For each hair switch or tress, 4 readings are taken on a single
side. These readings run from top to bottom along the length of the hair.
The hair is then turned over in the spectrophotometer mounting and 4
readings are taken on the reverse side. An average of the 8 readings is
used to calculate the chromaticity for each tress.

[0050]Data Analysis

[0051]Data is statistically analyzed using a General Linear Model
(analysis of variance), with product (i.e., Nice n' Easy Gray Solutions
Med Blonde 8 with Pre-treatment Composition A) as a variable or factor.
For each time point or product comparison, when treatment effects are
determined significant (p<0.10), Fisher's Least Significant Difference
(alpha=0.05) is used for treatment to treatment comparisons.

[0052]The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood
as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,
unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both
the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that
value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean
"about 40 mm."

[0053]All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention
are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of
any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior art
with respect to the present invention. To the extent that any meaning or
definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or
definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the
meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall
govern.

[0054]While particular embodiments of the present invention have been
illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the
art that various other changes and modifications can be made without
departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore
intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and
modifications that are within the scope of this invention.