1. STRUCTURED CAPESCapes by definition conjure up flowing, traveling swaths of heavy wintry fabric. Giambattista Valli reimagined them as structured pieces that maintain the cocoon-like shape of the cape, but the stay-still reliability of the coat. Cool.

The Milan shows presented many incarnations of fall’s contrast trend from coats to dresses to boots constructed with contrasting patches of color, texture, and fabric. But the coats were the standouts as designers created coats that were not part of the outfit, but in most cases made the outfit. Here’s what we’re looking forward to.CONTRAST DETAIL BOOTS
The looks at Prada (pictured above) evoked a modern vintage sensibility pairing detached hoods with mod contrast collar coats, flare-skirt dresses with knee grazing hemlines, and chic hand clutches. And then there were the boots — a sublime patchwork of snake skin, leather in contrasting colors. Love. Do you?
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Okay after a week of running between Lincoln Center, the Piers, and the Social Media Week events at Hearst and JWT — and a blessed long weekend — we’ve* slept on the dizzying array of looks presented at New York Fashion Week. Here’s what we’re* psyched to see and wear next fall:1. CONTRASTING SLEEVES

Layer a shaggy/wool/leather vest over a coat or jacket in a contrasting fabric and voila, you’ll have a look similar to this leather-sleeved Zero Maria Cornejo coat

Jumpsuits already have the same appeal as dresses — once they’re on, you don’t have to worry about what else to wear — why not look like dresses too? Case-in-point this super wide leg jumpsuit by Cynthia Rowley. Man Repellers, we’re talking to you.

You know you’re in for a treat when Pat Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, and Tyson Beckford are rubbing elbows right in front of you. Such was the case at yesterday’s Stephen Burrows Fall 2011 show, held in Burrows’ loft space showroom in the heart of the fashion district. Pat’s presence was no surprise as her relationship with the designer spans decades. She’s passed the torch to her daughter Anna, who walked strutted the show. But really “show” is an understatement. Performance art was more like it.
The models were clearly told to slow down the now typical model stomp and instead gracefully glide; giving the audience a chance to drink in every look. They posed, they preened, they blew kisses — it was very reminiscent of the Shows (with a capital S) of the ’70s and ’80s. With every knowing glance and dramatic arm flourish, they made sure you knew they were no mere clothes hangers!
Speaking of clothes, those shown matched the drama of the ladies. Long flowing capes and gowns mixed with sharp graphic prints. Burrows thought of every occasion providing work friendly suiting and dresses as well easy casual pieces and evening wear. I walked out a little taller, eschewing the prevalent aloof, non-plussed attitude many in fashion share. There was a time that glamour reigned. It’s cool to care!

Elie Tahari‘s Fall 2011 collection felt very Robinhood and his band of merry men — and I mean that in a good way! Suede skinny pants were tucked into embroidered suede knee boots, topped by fur collared jackets of belted suede or leather. Some of the dresses even came with sheer capes embroidered with leaves. Lace, fur, suede and leather were key elements.

You know how when you’re wearing something new that’s just that dope, you tend to walk a little different? Well, I don’t know if the models were coached to adopt the “don’t hate me ’cause I’m beautiful swagger” Getty’s photogs captured them in, but they certainly seemed to have it as they presented Michael Kors‘ impossibly riche collection of lustrous furs, embossed leathers, and lush knits. Dresses were draped, tucked, and slit to fluid perfection, while trousers and jackets were cut sharp with matching overcoats acting as understudies to maxi-length suit jackets in some cases.

Who knew prim could be so sexy? For Fall 2011 Vera Wang presented Victorian era references — dresses with high-necked collars, knuckle-grazing long sleeves, mostly maxi lengths, and fussy details — in sheer mostly nude fabrics, styled with Goth accessories. Tucks, pleats, tiers, and ruffles were prominent, often in one piece, while asymmetrical hems were also a theme.