Parducci: Wine Country's northern outpost

W. Blake Gray

Published 4:00 am, Friday, September 8, 2006

Photo: Eric Luse

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tastingroom08_s1_parducci176_el.jpg Some wines being poured by in the Mendocino Wine Company Parducci Winery Tasting Room Eric Luse/The Chronicle Names (cq) from source Ran on: 09-08-2006
Most of Mendocino Wine Co.'s current release wines are poured at Parducci for no charge. less

tastingroom08_s1_parducci176_el.jpg Some wines being poured by in the Mendocino Wine Company Parducci Winery Tasting Room Eric Luse/The Chronicle Names (cq) from source Ran on: 09-08-2006
Most of Mendocino ... more

Photo: Eric Luse

Parducci: Wine Country's northern outpost

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Drive any farther north than the Ukiah tasting room of Parducci Wine Cellars and you're out of what most people would consider Wine Country. But it's worth a visit to taste one of Mendocino County's most recognizable brands.

The Parducci family operated practically the only winery in Mendocino County for nearly 30 years after the end of Prohibition, but the family sold the business in 1972. It eventually was bought in 2004 by the Mendocino Wine Co., whose owners are firm believers in organic, sustainable agriculture and green business practices -- right down to the soy ink on the labels.

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It might be more accurate to call this place the Mendocino Wine Co. tasting room, as almost all of the company's current release wines -- including the Zingaro, Roselle and Big Yellow brands -- are there (for free!).

Everything is more casual in Mendocino County. Parducci may be a big business, but the tasting room doesn't feel the least bit corporate -- and that's the appeal.

The vibe: Neighborly with a touch of hippie (reformed). With its faux Mission-style exterior and brick and wood-panel interior, the tasting room looks like a snapshot from the 1970s, which is when it was built. Visitors seem to be a mix of Mendocino County locals and Parducci fans from across the country.

The team: Owners Paul Dolan and Tim Thornhill set the standards; winemaker Bob Swain upholds them. Dolan was winemaker and later president of Fetzer Vineyards until leaving in 2003; he's now board chairman of the Wine Institute. Thornhill got into the wine industry when his family moved to the area in 2002. Swain was cellar master at Clos Du Val in Napa before becoming Parducci's winemaker in 1997.

The wines: On my visit, 30 wines were available for tasting. I could taste as many as I wanted, all with no fee. Particular favorites were the 2003 Parducci True Grit Mendocino Petite Sirah ($24) and the 2003 Zingaro Benchland Mendocino Zinfandel ($14). The simple, food-friendly 2005 Parducci Mendocino County/Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($9) is a good bargain. Reserve wines have a $5 fee listed for tasting but I was not charged. Mendocino Wine Co. also has a smaller tasting room in Mendocino that was not visited for this review.

The experience: It's like wine tasting used to be: You ask, they pour, no charge. The staff knows the wines well but didn't try to dazzle me with statistics on ripeness or months of oak barrel aging. I asked a friendly, informative staffer why "Zingaro chocolate sauce" was on the wine list. She promptly mixed a "chocolate shooter," which is one part chocolate sauce and two parts Zinfandel. It was a sweet ending to the tasting.

The extras: Organic sandwiches, pre-made at the Ukiah shop Local Flavor, include simple preparations like turkey and Swiss, and cost $5. There's a pretty picnic area with shaded tables. In addition to logo shirts and hats and gourmet products like Chardonnay mustard, you can buy locally made jewelry. Tours of the barrel room and original tasting room (and to see grapes being crushed, if it's happening that day) are free, by appointment.

RATING KEY

Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All expenses are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a single visit.

Parducci Wine Cellars

501 Parducci Road (near Tollini Lane), Ukiah

(888) 362-9463 or (707) 463-5357.

10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

Rating: THREE STARS

RATING KEY: FOUR STARS...Extraordinary, THREE STARS...Excellent, TWO STARS...Good

Ratings are based on an anonymous visit by a Chronicle staff member, and include atmosphere, value, staff attitude and the variety of activities available to the public.

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