I am looking for some week reload data for the 10mm. I really just want a light recoil round. I reload mostly the 180 barrys but also do 135 njhp as well as barrys 155 hbrn. the Powders I use are aa#9, aa#7, bluedot and imr 800x. My manual has a good selection of 40sw reload data and I was wondering if I could use it in a 10mm. I guess also I would ask if a 180gr at 900fps will have less recoil then a 135gr at say 1100fps. I might be doing some timed shooting and that is why I'm looking for a light load. thanks

Kegs

04-18-2010, 06:53

I've never tried this, but I think it could be done okay...then again, why not just use a .40 - are you perceiving an advantage to using a light loaded 10mm?

ScEd

04-18-2010, 09:06

Why not use the Minimum load shown for the 10MM?
You will also need to change recoil springs on an extremely light load if you expect the light loads to cycle the slide and eject the spent case.

JTknives

04-18-2010, 09:17

I've never tried this, but I think it could be done okay...then again, why not just use a .40 - are you perceiving an advantage to using a light loaded 10mm?

I don't have a 40. I want a load that will allow me to fire fast with little recoil.

G20gunner

04-18-2010, 12:05

I would say the max load for any given bullet weight in a 40S&W would be close to a starting load in a 10mm. That's what I would do, try the max load for a 40S&W for any given bullet weight in the 10mm case and see how the recoil feels to you.

G20gunner:wavey:

Kegs

04-18-2010, 12:33

I don't have a 40. I want a load that will allow me to fire fast with little recoil. I'd go with a 135 and load it slowwwww...

F350

04-18-2010, 12:40

Why not? That is what the major ammo manufactures do, you can’t find factory loads that equal the original Norma loadings anymore because the steel frame guns can’t take it, try to find an original Bren without a cracked frame. About the only place you can find the REAL 10mm loading id from Double Tap.

_The_Shadow

04-19-2010, 13:14

JTKNIVES, You will want to use faster powders to achieve your goal if you are set on using the 10mm in a (Lite) configuration...the reason is the slower powders need to be loaded fairly full volume to get it to burn properly. Bullseye or Power Pistol might provide the results you are looking for with out being position sensitive with lighter charge weights.

If you go too light you will want lighter recoil springs as someone suggested, to have reliable function. I use the Wolff non captured rod and springs with an assortment of spring weights.

I have a 40S&W conversion barrel which allows me to play with various loadings and also saves wear & tear on my 10mm brass.

Best regards!

HOV

04-20-2010, 07:19

I second the 10-.40 conversion barrel motion. If there's a best case for a conversion barrel, it's between 10mm & .40S&W.

I wouldn't feel too bad using that barrel for carry.

But short of that, .40S&W loadings get surprisingly hot. For instance, with a 180-gr. bullet one max load for .40S&W is 6.7-gr. Unique, which will drive the bullet around 1000 fps according to the Alliant powder reloading manual.

In comparison, I just loaded up some moderate power 10mm rounds last night for self-defense ammo. 180-gr. bullets over 6.6-gr. Unique, which would get me between 1000 and 1050 fps according to the Hornady reloading manual.

Yeah, that's pretty much the same load.

But... the difference is using that in a .40S&W is a super hot max load, which will be pusing the limits of the gun, brass, recoil spring, and shooter's hand. Accuracy will suffer. In a 10mm, I know that load is extremely accurate and shoots fairly soft out of the G20.

That's the real beauty of 10mm IMO. You get nice hot loads right in the sweet spot of usability. Yeah, you can go nuclear also but then you may not hit what you're aiming for. So sure, go for it - use the .40S&W loads and see what happens. There's a lot of overlap between the two, and a hot .40S&W may make a very nice shooting, 50-60%+ 10mm load.

JTknives

04-24-2010, 21:28

Well today i loaded up some soft loads. i will most likely test them out tomorrow. the 3 loads i did are.
180gr barrys - AA#7 8.5gr
155gr barrys HBRN - AA#7 10gr
135gr nhp - AA#7 - 11gr

we will see how thy do. each load is a max for the 40S&W. i will keep you posted

Taterhead

04-24-2010, 23:02

VEEERRRYY curious about your results with the 180 gr with A7. I run those with Blue Dot for volume work (IDPA, practice, etc.). I intend to begin testing the same bullet with A7 since it is cleaner and meters more consistently. So your comments about that recipe would be welcomed.

Any chance that you will be running those over a chronograph?

_The_Shadow

04-24-2010, 23:39

You may find that the AA7 doesn't burn as well at the lighter loadings...it, like other powders like to be near the upper pressure range to perform and burn cleanly.

But I will welcome the data you observe and share also. So good luck!

BTW I just loaded some 9X25 Dillons with 121gr. JHP's over some AA7 tonight...these will get tested from the S&W1006 and the Glock 29 both stock length barrels for each.

JTknives

04-25-2010, 12:36

VEEERRRYY curious about your results with the 180 gr with A7. I run those with Blue Dot for volume work (IDPA, practice, etc.). I intend to begin testing the same bullet with A7 since it is cleaner and meters more consistently. So your comments about that recipe would be welcomed.

Any chance that you will be running those over a chronograph?

Ya I picking up a chrono today. I realized that I could not trust my roloads without one.

JTknives

04-25-2010, 12:38

VEEERRRYY curious about your results with the 180 gr with A7. I run those with Blue Dot for volume work (IDPA, practice, etc.). I intend to begin testing the same bullet with A7 since it is cleaner and meters more consistently. So your comments about that recipe would be welcomed.

Any chance that you will be running those over a chronograph?

Ya I'm picking up a chrono today. I realized that I could not trust my roloads without one.

JTknives

04-25-2010, 18:12

ok i'm back from testing them out. man thy where sweet shooting, but i did have some FTE and FTF. the 155gr seamed to be the best in terms of FTE and FTF, only one stove pipe (FTE) and it was the last round. the 180 and the 135 had FTF problems. Remember i am using a lone wolf barrel with there comp and factory strength spring on a stainless guide rod. if i was to get a softer spring i think these would be nice shooters.

180gr barrys - AA#7 8.5gr
1. 880
2. 936
3. 928
4. 933
5. 951

155gr barrys HBRN - AA#7 10gr
1. 1017
2. 1103
3. 1084
4. 1077
5. 1035

135gr nhp - AA#7 - 11gr
1. 1128
2. 1244
3. 1147
4. 1163
5. 1226

Taterhead

04-25-2010, 23:56

Thanks for posting the data!

You are a bit under the recommended starting loads for these projectiles and A7 as published by Accurate. You may see better cycling if you bump up the charge a bit - or, as you said, go with a lighter recoil spring. The starting loads from Accurate for A7 are:

The FTEs do not surprise me since you are running pretty light, but I'm curious about the FTFs. High primers? Light primer strikes? I did not notice what type of primer you are working with.

The Shadow is right that if you want to slow down these 10mm loads, faster buring powders may be more effective and tighten up those velocity spreads.

FreeAmerican

04-26-2010, 07:45

I use the starting load for Bullseye for my target load and stick to Power Pistol for full house loads.

JTknives

04-26-2010, 09:05

Thanks for posting the data!

You are a bit under the recommended starting loads for these projectiles and A7 as published by Accurate. You may see better cycling if you bump up the charge a bit - or, as you said, go with a lighter recoil spring. The starting loads from Accurate for A7 are:

The FTEs do not surprise me since you are running pretty light, but I'm curious about the FTFs. High primers? Light primer strikes? I did not notice what type of primer you are working with.

The Shadow is right that if you want to slow down these 10mm loads, faster buring powders may be more effective and tighten up those velocity spreads.

I ment FTF as in FTFeed not FTFire. Thy all fired fine, its just some of them did not feed properly. Ya I know I'm under the starting load for a 10mm but im at the max for a 40s&w which was what I was shooting for.

_The_Shadow

04-26-2010, 20:14

Your number are looking good so you are at a point of balancing the load and recoil function.

Yes the change in recoil spring weights to lesser weights would improve the function somewhat, just keep in mind that the pistol's slide has mass and the movement of that mass is what helps things to work. Slide velocity both rearward and foreward are balanced by the recoil spring system...too soft a spring my allow the slide to achieve too much rearward velocity and damage to occur (buffers were used in some guns to help with battering during this situation)

The longer case length of the 10mm already provides some lower numbers simply because of the space which there is no powder. Some powders are what they call position senitive if not held firmly against the primer flash holes. Generally the faster powders don't suffer from this as much.

What a learning process...Carry on have fun!

Taterhead

04-27-2010, 13:39

I ment FTF as in FTFeed not FTFire. Thy all fired fine, its just some of them did not feed properly. Ya I know I'm under the starting load for a 10mm but im at the max for a 40s&w which was what I was shooting for.

Yep. I've been away for a few days and it occurred to me, sometime after I posted the question, that you meant FTFeed. I wanted to get back in there an edit my post, but I did not had a chance to. Please disregard the question.