Auburn State Recreation Area is now open seven days a week to technical climbing! The area still closes to all activity at dusk, so be sure to leave enough time to return to your car during daylight hours.

CRAGS -- the Sacramento area local Access Fund affiliate -- and the California State Parks worked together through a pilot program of limited access in the popular Auburn Quarry. Its success has led to Auburn being full opened to roped climbing.

Description

Within the boundaries of the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA) is the remains of an old limestone quarry, formerly the Spreckels quarry. The quarry was bequeathed to the Bureau of Reclamation after the Teichert Inc. had determined that the lower quarry had yielded as much material as was financially feasible. The new land was then included in the State Recreation Area for management by the SRA for the Bureau of Reclamation. The SRA allows recreational usages include hiking, swimming, boating, fishing, camping, mountain biking, gold panning, equestrian/horseback riding trails, off-highway motorcycle riding, and whitewater, with Class II, III and IV runs. Ironically enough, climbing was not addressed in the recreational usage plan despite the quarries large rock cliffs being ideally suited for technical rock climbing.

History

Technical rock climbing has been practiced in the Old Limestone Quarry located in the ASRA since the late 1980ís. The original climbers established approximately seven rock climbing routes, which required some amount of fixed protection; pitons and protection bolts. From all accounts, early climbers were not discouraged or refused recreational opportunities at this time. Early climbers included Dale Christenson, Eric Kohl, Kirk Arens, and the Hatchett Brothers. On November 18th, 1998, Kirk and friends were practicing rope jumping on an elaborate rigging system. Kirk misjudged the length of his rope jump and was killed in the resultant impact. From this point forward 'til 2003, climbers were discouraged from using the Auburn SRA for technical rock climbing, but it was not technically illegal to climb there. In 2004, the ASRA created a memorandum banning technical climbing which was in effect until October 2012, where through the hard work of CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento), the Access Fund, and local climbers the ban was lifted and climbing could legally resume in the Quarry. Climbers in the early 2000ís started re-exploring the area for rock climbing routes and currently there are almost fifty established routes within the Auburn State Recreation Area. These routes cater to climbers of all levels from easy, moderate, and hard levels of climbing.

Climbing

The remaining rock cliffs left after the conclusion of active quarrying present a perfect opportunity for performance of technical rock climbing. The rock is highly featured limestone along with other sedimentary rock mixed in. The actual quarrying process itself has created large features, which are ideally suited to climbing. It is not uncommon to see the Placer County Sheriff use the Old Quarry as a practice grounds for their Search and Rescue Team. So don't be surprised if on occasion you see a large group of folks rappel and jugging the Scale Wall. Please respect their right to use the area for this purpose and find a different wall to climb on until they are done!

Getting There

Highway 80 to Auburn.

Exit Elm Ave (exit 119c), and stay left at the fork.

Turn left on Elm.

.2 miles later, left on El Dorado St (also Hwy 49).

Turn right to stay on highway 49, head down the hill and cross the bridge towards Cool (there's a sign.)

About a 1/4 mile later, park in the street or in the paid lot on the left (it's hard to see, but it's a VERY wide pull in)

From the parking lot (I advise bringing a bike!!!): Walk about 1 1/2 miles down the main trail (which heads more or less East out of the lot) way above the creek. You'll come to a large fort-like structure with a very wide trail heading straight up a steepish hill right of the main trail, which ends up taking you to the right of the fort. Walk another 150 yards to the FIRST fork, and go right. Follow this still wide (though often quite leaf-covered) trail trough another bend to the left, and you'll pop out at the entrance to the climbing area, with Scale Wall right in front of you.

Start to the right border of the large overhang on the Wreckage Wall. Start up an easy bolt to a vertical low crux on smooth rock. Hit the middle portion of the climb following larger holds to a techy microcrux as the wall steepens. Once over the bulge, easier climbing to the anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in CA

Brennen, It is great to hear people are being allowed to climb out there already, but I can tell you officially from the ASRA perspective the things you listed are not their "only concerns". A couple of quick reminders about Auburn and things you can do to ensure it stays open:

- Be respectful of other user groups (hikers, mtn bikers, equestrians) - Avoid Boom Boxes. The canyon echoes like crazy and your loud music will be enjoyed / have to be tolerated by everyone. - Clean up all trash you see, yours or otherwise. Climbers have a tradition of being the driving force for keeping the Quarry clean. Let's keep it up! - No camping / leave by dark. This is an official park rule. - Try to use the porta potties on the way and pack out all human waste in plastic bags. This is one of the ASRAs biggest concerns and hence while CRAGS is required to provide a bathroom if Auburn is to stay open.

So! Let's keep Auburn open by being an example user group that the park sees as self managing. We are in a 2 month "trial" period where the ASRA will re-evaluate things / access after 2 months. It is critical we put on the best face possible during this time!

Any wall facing East will get afternoon shade: Memorial Wall, Extension of Surf Tower, Horseshoe Canyon, and several completely untouched walls. The wall by far with the most potential is the extension or farther right area of the Wreckage Wall.

Hello Nor Cal climbers! I just recently moved to the Bay area and I have been trying to look around for some good sport climbing crags. From researching, looks like Auburn Cliffs is a good place to go especially now that it is open to climbers. I was wondering if there are any guide books out there for the area and if so, where can I buy one.

And if anyone needs a partner on a weekend, I have a rope, draws, anchors webbing, ect for climbing. just shoot me an email at inde_rida2000@yahoo.com or text me at (701)340-1966. My name is Justin

I just want to say thanks to the Sac/Bay climbing community. How awesome it has been the last few weekends seeing everyone enjoying themselves and climbing routes. These last few weekends have been everything I thought Auburn could be, and now is. For that, I want to say thank you :)

I was wondering if there is any kind of bolting protocol in effect now that this place is newly "opened" If you want to put up routes can you just go for it? or do you guys want to let the access issues simmer for a while?

There are no restrictions on bolting. Myself and a few others are rebolting some climbs that got vandalized over the closure years, and putting new ones in as well.

Most of the routes in the Quarry are mine, and I am certainly open to others jumping in and adding routes. A couple of recommendations from me would be:

- Be prepared to clean...A LOT! This isn't a granite area and each route takes quite a bit of time to clean as much loose rock / debris as possible. - Be careful! Coming in from the top of any of the cliffs is a lot more tricky than it looks due to loose rock, scree, and cliff length. - Use 1/2" if you can afford it, but at least 3/8" x 2.75". Preferred stainless. - Paint any anchors you put in to help minimize visual impact. - Try to drill on Fridays or Sundays if you can. Saturday is definitely the busiest day in the quarry for sure. - Have at least one other person in group dedicated to keeping people clear of the area you are working on due to guaranteed rock fall. - Given the amount of potential for new routes, I would suggest working on new formations / walls, not just adding more routes squeezed in between existing routes.

Hopefully you have previous bolting experience before you start. If you don't, consider getting someone who is experienced to help you with your first one or two routes to get a feel for it. Developing new routes is not rocket science, but it does have quite a bit of necessary knowledge to keep safe and put up good routes.

Have fun and feel free to email me any new info / routes you put up! I have a topo I am in the process of updating and will be releasing shortly.

Hopefully you have previous bolting experience before you start. If you don't, consider getting someone who is experienced to help you with your first one or two routes to get a feel for it. Developing new routes is not rocket science, but it does have quite a bit of necessary knowledge to keep safe and put up good routes.

I have to second this comment. I watched recently as several people who obviously had no idea what they were doing were in the beginning stages of putting up a new route out there. Topropeing an obviously dangerous and loose section of crap (assume they picked that spot because it had a convenient place to anchor to on top) and trundling blocks while the belayer was in the danger zone for falling rocks. They then began marking where bolts might go before any proper cleaning was done with several of those marks on loose blocks and in ridiculous and poorly chosen spots that left the leader in danger of taking big falls onto ledges. It was a total junk show.

I've also witnessed the destruction, poor bolt locations and ugliness left behind by someone who doesn't really know what they're doing out at Pine Canyon as well. Poorly placed bolts in bad locations, second guessing bolt placements and moving them leaving the old bolts studs sticking out and a mess of glue oozing out from everywhere.

It's an obvious example of some of the things that can occur when you're new to the game. If you don't really know what your doing, ask someone who does to give you a hand for the first few. I've placed hundreds of bolts and still manage to screw something up from time to time.

Just ask, chances are there are several people with experience willing to help out with not only knowledge, but tools, drills, ropes and all sorts of stuff.

The last thing the climbing world needs is another ugly botch job or squeeze job.

Hello Aaron, Ran into John Robinson at the Auburn Quarry yesterday. We climb there a few weeks ago for the first time and had fun. On the way out we looked at Wreckage Wall and big cliff to right - wow! Also checked out the Well area. John said you are the guy to talk to about new routes. Wanted to let you know that we started a couple lines on the big wall. Release the Lions .11c goes to old anchors center of wall. Just to the left of that is Chariots on Fire .11bish. Both lines are about 100 ft.

To the left of those lines, we fixed a 200 ft line. We have TR the moves, done some cleaning and drilled a couple bolts. Should come in at mid 5.11. As the local guide book author we wanted to introduce ourselves (Mike Carville/Josh Horniak) and let you know what we've been up to there. Should be a great winter cliff. We may be out there Sunday. If you're around come up and jump on the new lines. Cheers, Mike

Just went out today for the first time. A great area, but a couple of comments/cautions. The online guide (link in the description above) is very helpful but not always up to date. There were several climbs that were missing bolts and several others that are in the process of having bolts replaced (Thank You!). We found one loose bolt, as we were cleaning a 5.9 on Scale Wall. Speaking of cleaning, be ready to deal with dirty climbs (mud appears to run off of the top of Scale Wall). We also cleared a loose cobble sized rock and numerous other smallish rocks and dirt.

Spent a good amount of time here when I first started climbing 10 years ago. Not a bad place to learn some good sport techniques, but once you venture out to Tahoe, Yosemite, Sonora and other classic areas you'll never come back to Auburn. I'm glad they opened it though, it beats sneaking around fo sho.

Does anyone know about the anchors right below the tunnel/cave that about chest height? for people that have been climbing here for years are these the anchors for the well that you used to have to Rap into in order to climb?

Yeah those would either be the old anchors to Blasting Chamber 5.12d, Bonk 5.13, or Well Deserved 5.10b. Those routes used to be full sport pitches till they bulldozed the earth in. I should probably go in there to at least get my hardware back now that the lines are ruined :(

wow such a bummer i wish i could have seen those lines!!! thats alot of earth they have moved in there!! i hope it stops soon, there is some beautiful lines up in there! yeah those hangers are right at chest height could grab them with ease!

Was out at the Quarry today climbing at Wreckage wall and had a chance to look at the 6 or 7 new routes which have gone up to the right (this is called Twin Towers area, I believe?) They appear to be real gems.

Many thanks to those taking time (and money) to safely develop this humble crag. You are appreciated.

Just Spoke with the Rangers today, PLEASE PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB DURING THE WEEK, repeat DO NOT CLIMB DURING THE WEEK, he said they are stepping up patrol/enforcement and WILL start ticketing next week, as well as if people continue to climb during the week, we WILL lose the quarry for climbing FOREVER! if you hear about people climbing during the week pass this info along, i do not want to lose this spot. again, DO NOT CLIMB AT THE QUARRY DURING THE WEEK! Fri-sun and holidays ONLY!!!

My wife and I are in the area for a couple weeks and were thinking of climbing auburn cliffs tomorrow or the next day. We have a 9 month old and this is the first time we have been climbing with her so have a few simple questions about the area. We are thinking we will only top rope and maybe a few sport routes if things are going smoothly. It looks like scale wall will be our best location and wondering if anyone knows about morning or evening being best to dodge the sun. We are planning to carry out a pack-n-play type thing to put her in while we climb. Any and all advice is welcome. thanks Brad ps sorry if this is posted in the wrong area.

Brad: Auburn is perfect for climbing with kids. There is a great flat base between the Scale Wall and Memorial Wall. Sun will be on the Memorial Wall early, then about Noon transition to sun on the Scale Wall and the Memorial Wall will go into the shade. You should be able to transition between those two walls and be in or out of the sun as you prefer. Keep the little one away from the base of the cliffs as this was a quarry so there is loose rock that on occasion will be dislodged. You don't want your little one anywhere near where it may fall or bounce to. Have fun!

Found some climbing shoes left at the bottom of Scale Wall - on Saturday 21 June. Thought they were owned by some of the group that left earlier, but turns out they aren't. Are they yours? Let me know!

Just finished Agree to Disagree. I think it's 5.9 but I'd like to get someone elses opinion. It's left of Surf Tower about 50'. It's 5 bolts to a two bolt belay ledge. A 60m rope is plenty to lower off the bolts. Give it a shot this weekend and tell me what you think. It's still a little dirty and has potential for rock fall so be careful.

Cool Caleb, I created an area for it here. Let me know if you want me to transfer ownership to you (to unlock some bonus editing abilities), otherwise I'll just sponge in your content. In any case, you can add your new route there if you like now!