Description

Face climb up a left-facing corner, then up through the roof left of a prow to the anchors. This is what you get if you combine "Hail Caesar (5.11b)" and "King Tut (5.11d)" in William Prehm's photo topo into the one route that really exists.

Location

This is the first bolted route to the right of "Dealin' Crack". It shares a last bolt and anchors with "Chiba Chiba" immediately to the right.

Hi Alan - In hopes of sorting out the confusion "A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing" (12a/b) is a route I added in 1998 which starts about 10 feet right of Chiba Chiba. A more detailed description can be found in Appendix A (page 187)of Mark Van Horn's most recent edition of Rock Climbing Shelf Road.

Wow, I climbed this route over the weekend and I think the new guide gives it an 11b rating. I thought it felt a bit hard for the grade and tricky too. I agree on the two stars it gets also. Probably worth doing once.