ďI have heard some people say that the Stormboyz are an undesirable unit, because they are too fragile/expensive. They cost 2* as much as a regular Ork boy, but have exactly the same stats & weapons (well, they have stikkbombz, but how often do you use those?). I have used Stormboyz since I first started playing Orks, back in the 3rd edition days. It's one of those units that almost always perform well, often killing things far more expensive than them, and preventing other valuable Mobz from getting shot at....ď - From Nachgals guide to better Stormboy use.

Firstly I recommend everyone read Nachgals guide before continuing. It's a very good guide, and will give you a great overview of how to use Stormboyz effectively.

Da Small Stormboy mob (exploring alternatives)

This is a very unconventional approach to using Stormboyz, one which requires a fare amount of practice and a lot of finesse. Be warned!

A few quick reminders:

Stormboyz are a ďbullyĒ unit, they bare meant to pick on weaker opponents. They are ideal for harassing your opponent and disrupting his overall plan. Your main target are units that will give you a lot of long range pain and units that don't have much staying power. Remember with these guys you can strike where you opponent least expects it!

Stormboyz should be used as their description depicts in their codex entry. They are tactically minded Orks! So remember to use tactics when you use them and they won't let you down.

What you need:

4 Stormboyz, 1 Nob, Big Choppa, Boss Pole, 'Eavy armour 85pts

Why this loadout?:

-Big Choppa: it's cheap and gets the job done! No sense in spending 5x the cost on a PK in such a fragile unit.-íEavy armour: A 4+ save comes in handy in such a small mob, and gives you a better chance of avoiding a few wounds early on.-Boss Pole: Re-rolling failed moral tests! What more is there to say? This is what will keep your boys from running!

Pros and Cons of such a small units:

Pros:-Cheap.-Easy to hide.-Super maneuverable.-Great at harassing.-Anti Tank (a charge range of 19-24" and 4 S 7 attacks against rear armour is nothing to laugh about)-Being small means they aren't as high on the target priority list.

Cons:-Super fragile (a turn of shooting will most likely wipe these guys out).-No match for other assault unites.-Leadership 7.-Easy KP.

The problem with being TOO killy:

I normally run a Stormboy mob of 10-12 and it tends to perform outstandingly. I have learned how to keep them out of LoS, until the time comes to charge. They tend to be at full strength when they do (normally a good thing).

However whenever I fight guard, tau, small squads of GEQ (10 or less), and MEQ (5 or less), I tend to kill the whole squad in my assault phase only to get wiped out in my enemies shooting phase. The only way to avoid this is with a good multiple charge, which sadly isn't always possible!

This is where the "minimum" storm boy unit comes in. Against GEQ squads of around 10 they will often inflict a reasonable amount of damage without wiping out the enemy unit in your assault phase. Meaning you can finish them off in their assault phase. This has two major advantages! You will not get shot to pieces and you will be free to move/shoot/assault!

Some maths hammer:

Remember maths hammer only gives you a statistical average and doesn't take into account luck. Its not necessarily what will happen (a lot of people forget that).

If you take one of the wounds on the nob then you only lose 0-1 Boyz (this is where ĎEavy armour is handy).

Orks: 1.54 MEQ: 1.45

In this case a PK would be a better option, because I doubt the Boyz will pull through in the second round of assault without their charge bonuses.

Other things to take into account:

In all of the cases above (bar the MEQ) the Stormboyz come on top by a considerable margin. This would most likely result in the enemy squad fleeing due to negative leadership modifiers. That being said they do have a chance to rally (assuming they lose combat by 3-4 and that they are leadership that means 16% and 28% chance of rallying. Of course this is assuming their are no outside influences to their leadership (e.g commissar lord, Ethereal, stubborn etc). This also does not take into account different GEQ load outs.

Note: Its a good idea not to use your sluggas the first time you assault, due to the fact that any casualties they inflict will reduce your enemies staying power.

Taking casualties:

Now all the above is assuming the Stormboyz are at full strength, which they should be unless they take some casualties from difficult terrain tests or their Rokkit packs, when they charge. Each casualty you take will roughly reduce the number of wounds you inflict on the charge by 1 ( 1.19 for GEQ and 0.88 for GEQ in carapace). You can use this to your advantage if you charge with a mob of 4 the chance of your opponent not fleeing is 41% (and so on).

In short if your enemy doesn't flee you will most likely wipe them out in your opponents assault phase and be ready to assault something else in your turn. With the casualties you have taken you will have even more chance of them staying in combat for 2 rounds. By doing this you can take out 2-3 GEQ squads without getting shot at a single time.

If you are at full strength by the time you get to your enemy you could always try to charge two GEQ squads. Ideally a full strength one and one that has already taken a few casualties. Of course this depends how good these GEQ squads are. Donít bite off more then you can chew.

Note: Once you have taken a few casualties the sluggas come into their own, giving you that little bit of extra "ummf" when your down to 3-4 Boyz. (BS 2 is crap, but every little helps)

What if they counter-charge you?:

Well your going to have a hard time. But if you have tied up 2 squads with 5 Boyz then it means less stuff shooting you. Hopefully help will be on it's way (don't forget the rest of your army is legging it towards the enemy ). Also see the section "Doubling Up".

"Kombat Taktiks":

If you want to fall back and risk the sweeping advance then you can always substitute your number of Boyz (3-5) with your leadership, which almost guarantees you will run (don't do it below half strength though!).

You fall back 3d6 +1d6 which you can add to the distance you move because you used your Rokkit pack. This can make all the difference when getting to that piece of cover or getting out of shooting/assault range, most of the time you end up behind your advancing boy Mobz, nice and safe and denying your opponent a KP.

Eg: A Stormboy mob of 5 and a Trukkboy mob of 10 have just lost assault. the Stormboyz took 2 casualties and are down to 3 Boyz. In the next turn the enemy might focus his attacks on the Stormboyz to finish them off and get a KP. If you decide to retreat the Stormboyz by using their leadership of 3 (mob rule!), and the Trukkboy mob pass their moral check. The enemy is still engaged with the Trukkboyz so you can retreat the Stormboyz without fear of being caught in a sweeping advance. Thus running away to safety and negating your opponent a kill point. Or you could charge them again once your Stormboyz regroup getting your charge/furious charge bonuses (which could make all the difference if you were fighting say another Ork mob).

This isn't limited to mobs that start out small you could use the same trick on a mob of 10 Stormboyz/regular Boyz that have been reduced to 5-6 models, at worse you pass the leadership test and you stay in the fight. This trick is only advisable in your enemies assault phase though!

The Rule of Doubling Up:

As with most things in the Ork Codex its good to double up. With two of these squads you can really hack away at your enemy, and once they get down to 2-3 Boyz (if they don't flee, BP FTW!) they can join up! They can also support each other if one of them gets counter charged (the counter-counter charge!). More importantly it means they can double up against MEQ squads.

These are all done assuming the Orks get the charge and don't take into account whether sluggas were used before engaging the enemy. Normally it's a bad idea shoot Space Marines before assaulting. But Orks are so lousy at shooting that the chances of them inflicting 25% casualties and forcing a moral check is almost impossible and if they do they deserve a medal! (10 slugga shots inflict 0.55 unsaved wounds vs MEQs)

-With two mobs it means you get to roll a d6 + I for each mob for sweeping advance.-If you do get stranded in the open your opponent has to dedicate at least two squads to wipe you out, averting a lot of fire that would otherwise have inflicted more casualties on your other mobs. Forcing him to chose his targets, whats scarier 20 Boyz running at you or 4-5 Boyz that can fly?

Mobility:

With a charge range of 19-24" and a movement range of 19-24" (with run) you can strike anywhere (13-18 of those inches ignore terrain and other units). With mobility like this you can easily support other Mobz if needed, and can strike your enemy where he is most vulnerable (and I don't mean by throwing your Stormboyz at your opponents groin).

REMEMBER: you roll the extra D6" before you move so you can change your tactic accordingly so you don't get stranded in the open.

Multiple charges:

What? I hear you ask, why on earth would you want to charge multiple targets with such a small squad! - With the high manoeuvrability of the Ork rokkit pack, pulling of multiple charges is more possible then ever! Hopefully this little example will help you understand how this can be effective!

You charge a Wraithlord and a squad of 12 Guardians, you directed all of your attacks against the guardians. Your Stormboyz kill 7 guardians and the Wraithlord kills 1 boy. So you win combat by 6! The guardians run away. 'No Retreat' kicks in. The Stormboyz have a BC so they can harm the Wraithlord, this means he now has to make 6 saves due to wounds from 'No Retreat'.

This little trick works wonders when you opponent has positioned a squishy unit near one of his monstrous creatures a good example would be it you charged a "dakka fex" and some gaunts.

And here is just a quick story that shows you how being adventurous with your multiple charges can be rewarding!

I was fighting Tau. Most of my forces had been wiped out and the rest were engaged with kroot. It looked like the game would be a draw, we each had one objective and we were fighting over the objective in the middle, but it looked like the game would end before a victor emerged. I had a squad of 5 Stormboys that had been ignored for the most of the game and were hiding behind some ruins about 22" or so from two squads of fire warriors (12 men each, both still at full strength) who were sitting on my opponents objective. Things were looking grim...

... then I rolled a 6! My Stormboys flew over the ruins, rushed forward sluggas blazing (they all missed, surprise!), charged 24" and managed to pull off a multiple charge on both fire warrior squads.

Defenders reacted ensuring all my Stormboyz could fight. They managed to kill 2 Boyz, I killed 5 tau they both failed their leadership tests at -3 and ran. The Boyz sweeping advanced and wiped them both out! 85pts of Ork just killed 270pts of tau and won me the game!! My opponent and I both stood there in shock.

I was lucky but again its an example of what you can pull off with these guys.

Multiple Charges (advanced):

Page 34 of the BRB says the following with regards to the assault move:

"1 The most important one is that each model must endits assault move in coherency with another model inits own unit that has already moved.2 If possible, the model must move into base contactwith any enemy model within reach that is notalready in base contact with an assaulting model.3 If there are no such models in reach, the model mustmove into base contact with an enemy model that isalready in base contact with an assaulting model.4 If a model cannot reach any enemy models, it musttry to move within 2" of one of its own unit's modelsthat is already in base contact with an enemy.5 If this is impossible, it must simply stay in coherency"

Thanks to their jump packs Stormboyz can pull off ridiculous multiple charges. If you are really good at guessing 5-6" then you can position the Stormboyz as follows:

-A model(A) on one side of the mob needs to be between 5-6Ē away from the unit you plan to declare your charge on.-A model on the other side of the mob need to be within 6Ē of an enemy unit that you want to get the multiple charge on.-Move model(A) into BB contact with the squad you declare the charge against.-If you guessed the range right 2 and 3 won't be possible for the next model, so you will have do 4.-The model after this one will only be able to do 5. -This way you can make a chain of 5-10" with in a mob of 5 between the two enemy squads you want to charge. -The ďdefender reactsĒ ensuring all your models can fight.

In doing this you have effectively charge two units that were 5-10" away from each other. This is a great way of pulling off the MC and "no retreat" trick. Again its all about making the most of the Stormboyz mobility.

Its risky, it takes some guess work. But it can really pay off.

Note: Obviously taking this too far can ďruinĒ the fun of the game. Do it within reason!

Cover out of no where?:

If you have to squads of 5 boys you can arrange them in such a way that they both grant each other cover saves. Normally this is not advantageous because the rules state you have to move one unit at a time. So if you were to do this with regular Boyz it would slow them down because you wouldn't be using all your movement to go forward!! However with jump packs you can ignore models in your movement phase, so you don't get this problem! Its a nifty way to get a 4+ cover save if you really need it.

However if you are using your Stormboyz properly you wonít have to resort to such Gitish behaviour! (This tactic is in here for the sake of completion.)

mob A: O Mob B: I

O I O this is the set up I use with two mobs of 5 (but I rarely resort to this!)I O IO I O I

Note: Again taking this too far can ďruinĒ the fun of the game. Do it within reason!

Stikkbombz:

Don't forget that you've got them!

Competing for Fast Attack slots:

Fortunately unlike our Elite and Heavy Support choices there is a lot less competition for Fast Attack slots (I have yet to see an army that fields 9 buggies or 15 koptas (Apocalypse Now anyone?).

Conclusion:

In conclusion for a cheap price you get a very good harassment unit, that can cause a lot of problems to GEQ armies, can work as a good antitank unit, and generally will put a thorn in the backside of any players plans. Taking two of these smaller mobs lets you perform just as effectively against MEQ armies as a single larger mob.

I've decided to offer something which has been of use on the Eldar boards, and create a table that will hold a list of any Ork lists which board frequenters think are of value to the Ork community as a reference. I personally won't be rating army lists on this board, though if people want to do so in thread and send me a link to their review, I'd be glad to add it in. Generally, these will be higher quality lists that are not only well written/devised, but also include some explanation of how they work.

In order to qualify, the original army list posted should:-follow all of Ollieb's guidelines for posting-include some good effort explaining how the army list should function as a whole-some specific strategies for each of the three main missions, or whatever mission environment it's going to be fielded in-potential vulnerabilities/things to look out for

1.Introduction:This Tactica is designed solely to deal with AV 14 vehicles in games of Warhammer 40,000, it will not be dealing with anything do to with Apocalypse games as that is another game entirely. It will not deal with special characters as these are covered by the units they are based off. This guide assumes you own the codex and the rule book, if you don't own them this guide won't be of much help. Every effort has been made to ensure that nothing in this guide breaches the forum rules, if you find something please let either myself, Gutstikk or Ollieb know so that it may edited!

It was written by me, OldCrow and a massive amount of credit and thanks will go to OD from TV who did a lot of the ground work for this in the unit descriptions, he also helped me edit and did all the spelling and grammar checking for me. Thank you again OD, this wouldn't have been possible without you!

I put a lot of effort into this and would appreciate any criticism to be constructive. I enjoyed writing this more than I thought I would so if this is well received I will probably write more Tacticas.

It can be hard for a newer Warbosses to effectively deal with Armor 14 and the belief that there isn't a solid choice in our codex can often cloud a Warboss's judgment on how to handle said vehicle. This Tactica is here to dispel any misconceptions about AV 14 and to utterly destroy the belief that it is our Achilles heel. I wonít lie, it is tough for Orks to deal with, but any belief that our codex cannot deal with it is wrong, pure and simple. This Tactica will show you how! Please note that the mighty Land Raider and the 'indestructible' Necron Monolith will be covered in section 4 and 5 respectively as these beasts are in a class all of there own.

This Tactica will not detail the exact method of popping AV 14; I will not be able to tell you exactly how you are going to do it. There is no way I can know whatís in your list just as I can not know the enemyís composition or how he plays. The scope of this Tactica is so you, the Warboss, will know what the most effective tools are to eliminate AV 14 and what to keep in mind when doing so.

In this section I am introducing the concept of Direct and Indirect damage to AV 14. Direct damage is hitting the AV 14 front on and penetrating it. Indirect damage is hitting the squishy side of AV 14, for example instead of hitting the front armor of a Leman Russ which would be direct damage, hitting the side Armor which is less than AV 14 which would be indirect damage. Please note that weapons only capable of glancing AV 14 will be considered Indirect Damage for the simple reason that it wonít be able to destroy the vehicle.

2. Units Capable of Damaging AV 14This section will detail entry by entry of the Ork codex on what units are capable damaging AV 14 directly and indirectly. This section will skip over any unit that is not capable of doing it.

Warboss: Pg 32 and 97 of Codex: OrksA long time favorite for players, many stick him on a bike or in a trukk. His base strength is the highest in the army and when given a Power Klaw and Attack squig, he will role a bucketful of dice at max strength easily destroying enemy amour. He is more than capable of direct damage but is most effective at indirect. If youíre going to use him as your antitank make sure you put him on a bike with a cybork body and for heavens sake put him with some Nob Bikers or regular bikers (see below).

Pros: Fast if on a bike or trukk. Max strength with a bucket load of attacks, he will bring down tanks, period. He is also your best bet against Terminators/Terminator equivalents which may be hiding/being transported in a vehicle.

Cons: This guy will be a bullet magnet, they will shoot him. Do not let him run alone he will be destroyed. If you run him with Nob Bikers or with Nobz in general, triple the amount of incoming fire coming your warboss's way. Max of 2 Bosses in standard armies

Big Mek: Pg 34 and 97 of Codex: Orks

The Big Mek has a few tools up his sleeve for taking down AV 14. One is the almighty and truly orky Shokk Attack Gun. This gun is fantastic and true to orky way of things, completely random.

Second is the Kustom Mega Blasta. A great gun, high strength and has the always fun rule of 'Gets Hot!' rule. The Big Mek has access to the Power Klaw. With the Power Klaw he wonít be as strong or have as many attacks as the Warboss but will still be capable of indirectly damaging AV 14.

Pros: Awesome if you have been worshipping the dice gods recently. High strength of the KMB and the rules for the SAG (see pg 35 of Codex: Orks) make him a solid choice for AV 14 especially if you get a double 6.

Cons: SAG is random and KMB suffers the "Gets Hot!" rule. The Mek himself has the profile of a Nob and precludes the use of a Warboss.

Weird Boy: Pg 36 and 97 of Codex: Orks

The resident Ork psyker. He too is quite capable of directly tanking down AV 14 with his psychic powers!

Pros: The Orks only melta weapon which also is fairly long range. It is also the greatest weapon we have against AV 14.

Cons: Is like all things Orky, totally random and cannot be relied on in any way shape or form to perform the task assigned to it. Even when paying for the upgrade "Warp 'Ead" itís still way to random to be relied on and precludes the use of a Warboss or Big Mek.

Nobz: Pg 33 and 98 of Codex: Orks

Ork Nobz on bikes or in a transport are great at taking down AV 14 especially if they get the charge. An assortment of Wargear choices makes them excellent at taking down AV 14 indirectly. They are not as good as a Warboss at taking down AV 14 but can make up for this with sheer number of attacks and resilience. Combined with an Ork Warboss they will end up blowing up every single vehicle on the game board.

Pros: Fast, extremely mobile tank hunters. That can be heavily customized and can benefit from the wound allocation rule. They have a bucket load of attacks that can damage AV 14 indirectly and directly if on the charge.

Cons: Expensive bullet magnets. They will be shot at, a lot. If your opponent is not pants on heads crazy he will dedicate a large amount of fire at them.

A note: Many opponents will call you a cheater if you use/abuse the wound allocation rulings. Additionally it gives other Ork players a bad name and in tournament settings lower your composition score. I'm not saying that you should or shouldn't abuse the rule, thats up to you to decide. I wouldn't personally abuse it but I don't use Nobz so my opinion is moot.

Mega-Nobz: Pg 39 and 98 of Codex: Orks

The Orkish equivalent of Terminators. They can be slow, though any Warboss worth his Choppa will mount them at the very least on a Trukk. They can be armed with an assortment of Kombi weapons and they all come with Power Klaws standard!

Pros: Solid armor and Power Klaws as standard!

Cons: even more pricey than regular Nobz and don't get access to some of the cooler pieces of Wargear that regular Nobz do. They are also expensive bullet magnets, more so than regular Nobz and mostly from the psych impact of "Terminator" Orks. Keep in mind unlike other army TEQís they do not have an invulnerable save and can be Insta Killed.

Burna Boyz: Pg 45 and 98 of Codex: Orks

These guys are absolutely rubbish at tanking down AV 14, if youíre using these guys to down AV 14 your either pants on head crazy or you have run out of options. The Burna Boyz themselves cannot hurt AV 14 but for some reason you can add up to 3 Meks (with either a Kustom Mega Blasta or Rokkit Launcha) to the squad which can hurt AV 14. If you include either of those in a Burna Boy mob, you probably need to go see Dok Grotsnikk to get a 'Ghazgkull Speshul'.

Pros: none, if you have a Burna boy squad capable of damaging an AV 14 vehicle youíre doing it wrong.

Cons: For starters, everything. They shouldn't be doing anything near an AV 14 tank unless youíre burning the contents of said tank. Additionally taking Mekboyz in the unit is a waste as it adds unneeded shooting to a short range assault unit

Tankbustas: Pg 42 and 99 of Codex: Orks

These guys are the business. They will blow up any vehicle you point them at. As there name implies they are here to bust tanks and I personally love these guys. They're useful even against non tank armies which is saying something. Every single bit of Wargear they have is designed for busting tanks and they even get Tankhammers, which are better in every way than Power Klaws for busting tanks. They also can get Bomb Squigs which while awesome are slightly random. Many people would say the Glory Hog rule is a disadvantage. Quite simply it is not. It is there to stop you the Warboss from getting distracted; I will talk about this later in the tactics section.

Pros: everything is right about these guys. Tank Hammers, Bomb Squigs and Rokkit Launchers I don't need to say anything else. These guys are cheap and they are designed to pop enemy armor (what did you expect with a name like Tankbustas). They are also the only unit capable of taking Tankbusta Bombs which are almost as powerful as Meltabombs.

Cons: For some unknown reason none of the Orks specialist mobs can take dedicated transports and Tankbustas are no exception. You either have to hijack one of your Boyís Trukks or stick them in a Battlewagon.

Lootas: Pg 43 and 99 of Codex: Orks

These guys mount the Mighty Deffguns. The Deffgun itself cannot damage AV 14 but the Meks which again can have either Kustom Mega Blastas or Rokkit Launchas can. Similarly to the Burnas if you have Rokkits in this mob youíre doing it wrong. Having a Mek in this squad is not totally insane but its not a good idea generally. The Deffgun can do indirect damage if the enemy exposes some rear or side armour but this is rare and chances are you will want to be shooting at something else.

Pros: Can do some indirect damage with a high firepower output.

Cons: Everything, this squad shouldn't be shooting at AV 14. Itís not designed for that. The Deffguns strength is not high enough to make it a solid choice for indirect damage.

Kommando's: Pg 44 and 99 of Codex: Orks

These guys are not very good at damaging AV 14 but thatís not really what they were designed for. They can take a Nob with Power Klaw and can take Rokkits, neither is likely to blow up AV 14 very reliably as you would have to hit with the Rokkits in the first place.

Pros: They can Infiltrate, so they start closer to the AV 14. Snikrotís special Outflank can potentially get them close, but as Snikrot lacks a Powerklaw the point is moot.

Cons: Not designed for taking on AV 14, if they hit with their Rokkits they can indirectly do some damage but Orky shooting generally leaves something to be desired.

Ork Boyz: Pg 40 and 100 of Codex: Orks

The meat and potatoes of an Ork army, they are not tank hunters. Never have been and never will be. They can take Rokkits and a Nob with Power Klaw which means they can damage AV 14 but thatís not there intended purpose. Rubbish at hurting AV 14.

Pros: cheap and plentiful, you will have a large number of these guys anyways.

Cons: if your shooting at Tanks means your not running at the enemy or shooting at enemy infantry which is what they are designed for and like all Orks their terrible BS means they won't be hitting very often.

Storm Boyz: Pg 47 and 101 of Codex: Orks

Ork Boyz crazy/stupid enough to attach giant Rokkit packs to there backs. Their only way to damage AV 14 is with Nob with Power Klaw or if they take Zagstruk. All in all, their anti tank capacity is rubbish.

Pros: maneuverable and fast.

Cons: they lack options and were not designed for taking out AV 14.

Warbuggies/Wartrakks: Pg 49 and 101 of Codex: Orks

Light Ork vehicles. Pack some very potent weaponary and can really put some pressure on the AV 14.

Cons: They are the easiest vehicles in the entire game to pop and are subject to vehicle squadron rules which are found on pg 64 in the core rulebook.

War Bikes: Pg 46 and 101 of Codex: Orks

Orks who ride Warbikes are tougher than normal Orks and pack some very potent special rules. Like most units they can take some very solid gear but are not designed for tank busting.

Pros: like all Ork fast attack, maneuverable and fast. Nob with Pk can, on the charge, cause direct damage to AV 14.

Cons: Bikes are expensive when compared to the majority of other units in the Codex and they are also bullet magnets especially if there is an attached Biker Boss.

Deffkoptas: Pg 48 and 101 of Codex: Orks

They are fantastic Tank hunters when upgraded properly. Try to keep buzz saws at 1 per 3 Koptas unless your running the infamous Red/Black/Green Baron ( He has been spotted in many colors).

Pros: Fast and maneuverable, easily able to get around to do some really good Indirect damage. Twin linked Rokkits provide pretty good chance to hit and buzz saws allow for some follow up CC damage if Rokkits fail. Fairly easy and cheap access to these models as most non Ork players who purchase AoBR are willing to trade or sell them for next to nothing

Cons: Buzz saws become bad after charge, expensive units. They are best used to hit side and rear armour which can sometimes be difficult.

Battlewagon: Pg 55 and 102 of Codex: Orks

Orks massive mobile fortress, able to carry a horde of Boyz into battle, it has been the end of many foes of our great armies. Able to be upgraded in a million viable ways it is more than able to take on AV 14 directly and prevail without a scratch. Upgrade it to have Rokkits and Zapp gun and it will lay low even the mightiest of our AV 14 opponents.

Pros: can take a score of Rokkits and the amusingly random Zapp gun. Good armor and transport capacity means it can really lay some hurt onto the enemy AV 14 with direct and indirect damage. A good alternative to counteract the Zzap gunís randomness is a Kannon, which can glance AV 14.

Cons: Costs can sky rocket quickly, side and rear armor is quite low. Can only randomly deal direct damage. Even indirect damage is hard to count on. According to the FAQ the Zzap gun always counts as a main weapon when mounted on a Battlewagon so you cannot move and shoot.

Deffdread: Pg 52 and 102 of Codex: Orks

A hulking smoke belching monstrosity the grabs the ideals of classic and traditional Ork Kultur and manifests them on the battlefield. It can deal direct damage in combat and at ranged can deal some quite nice indirect damage. Can be outfitted with two Rokkits or Kustom Mega Blastas which do not negatively affect the Dread on a roll of a 1.

Pros: can deal direct damage in close combat with a huge number of attacks.

Cons: if upgraded with close combat weapons it will become quite an expensive bit of kit, BS of Ork pilot leaves as always something to be desired.

Killa Kans: Pg 53 and 102 of Codex: Orks

Smaller cousins of the Deffdread. Has improved BS with reduced WS. It has less attacks but can be fielded in squadrons which can improve and impair them at the same time. They have to be upgraded with a ranged weapon and can take some great weapons for tank hunting. When used properly they can be the bane of tanks everywhere.

Pros: can deal direct damage in CC, base cost is insanely cheap for what you get out of them. Ranged weaponry options are solid at indirect damage.

Cons: Slow and weak Armor means they get destroyed fairly easily. The squadron rules mean even glances can destroy them.

Flash Gitz: Pg 56 and 103 of Codex: Orks

Tooled up Nobz form into Flash Gitz mobs. Mostly rubbish for tanking on vehicles but are capable of dealing indirect damage.

Pros: can put out a bit of firepower.

Cons: Expensive and not designed for taking on tanks. Even with the Shootier upgrade they're still really low strength and will struggle with all but the lightest indirect damage.

Big Gunz: Pg 51 and 103 of Codex: Orks

Not a great choice for dealing with AV 14, Kannons themselves are cheap and can deal indirect damage. The real choice comes with the Zzap guns, they are pretty cheap and can deal direct damage if the dice gods favor you.

Pros: cheapish. can deal direct damage if upgraded.

Cons: if not upgraded they only deal indirect damage and usually miss, the Zzap gun is maddeningly random and cannot be relied on to do anything other than kill crew members at an amusingly alarming rate. Additionally due to the Artillery rules on pg 55 they are extremely fragile when shot at.

Looted Wagon: Pg 54 and 103 of Codex: Orks

Ork Looted wagons make a very solid choice for dealing with AV 14. They are capable of dealing direct damage at range and because all Ordnance rolls 2d6 armor penetration. A very solid choice for dealing with AV 14.

Pros: pretty cheap and once that AV 14 is gone it can blow up infantry to boot!

Cons: Don't Press Dat! rule can be annoying. Weak armour.

As you can see from this section the vast majority of units in the Ork codex can damage AV 14 our codex has the tools and rules to allow us to destroy AV 14. Section three will explain how to use section two to include the mobs and vehicles to bring down AV 14.

3. Tactics, Combinations and the MindsetThis section will deal with the methods and mindset required to destroy AV 14. It will also dispel any myths that suggest that this is difficult or an Achilles heel for Orks of the 41st millennium. This section will by its very nature touch on the subjects of building a viable, strong and competitive list. This is not to be mistaken as tailoring which is something that in a general sense the community looks down upon and is viewed by some as very unsportsman like and quite the domain of the incompetent general. This section while focused on AV 14 will have to touch on previously said subjects.

Tactics

This section will detail how to fight AV 14 vehicles. This will explain the basic tactics and how you can apply it to your army. This will also explain some basic methods that will help the budding warboss effectively fight, counter and defeat the AV 14 arrayed against him.

Firstly lets look at some of the facts about Orks have in general and against AV 14 vehicles.

1. SpeedWe are one of the fastest armies on the table and if done right, can easily match Eldar or their darker kin with ease.

2. Open topped vehiclesSome people think this a disadvantage, hardly, this fact, mixed with points 1 and 3 means we can argue that we are not only the fastest but also the most maneuverable army in the Warhammer universe, something the arrogant Eldar have taken for granted for too long.

3. Close Combat monstersOur greatest most reliable methods for popping AV 14 tin cans is in close combat.

4. Sheer numbersOrks donít do small things, they do them in mass amounts both in shooting and assaulting. When they do something they do it en masse.

5. Bad BSOrks cant shoot straight, its a fact of orky life. They canít hit the broadside of a barn, while inside the barn 5 feet from the wall.

Looking at these five points we can with certainty say we have found the ideal way for us to handle AV 14. By using our speed, our open topped vehicles and close combat prowess and taking into account that Orkís primary damage method isn't shooting we can discern our main methods for us to deal with AV 14.

With our main method of attack finalized we can now begin formulating a plan to destroy our enemies.

Effective Units

This section will deal with the actual methods, mobs and combinations designed to bring down AV 14. What any Warboss must remember and this is critical, you must always remember indirect damage. The vast majority of enemy tanks in this game do not have AV 14 all the way around and this is where we will have most success. I will repeat this for the sake of emphasis. You must remember indirect damage. Why shoot at AV 14 when you can hit AV 13 or AV 12? This will increase your total number of penetrating hits and therefore increase your chance to destroy the enemy vehicle.

When taking on an AV 14 vehicle you must use our strengths and turn them in advantages while minimizing our weakness so as not to turn into a disadvantage. Use your speed to get around behind the enemy tank, use your open topped transports to shoot then assault the enemy. Use multiple units to bring down the tank. That being said here is a list of the most effective units and combinations and the tactics and strategies behind them that make them effective. Please note that all listings here are in reference to AV 14 not to general table top performance and any advice given here is in relation to solely hunting AV 14 and again not for general table top performance.

Warboss: Rating 10/10This bad arse is a long time favorite of Ork players everywhere, capable of mass destruction of vehicles. He can have multiple strength 10 attacks when geared right. While his tank busting ability is unrivaled it is his ability to kill what that AV 14 was carrying that makes him the stand out performer. The Warboss can kill the tank and then take the charge of the enemy combatants if they survive the explosion. He is arguably our best tank buster and this is only enhanced when combined with Nobz.

His best loadout is either in a Trukk/battlewagon or on a bike. Footslogging Warboss's tend to get killed. He should have a Power Klaw and Attack Squig, those upgrades are mandatory. Eavy Armor and Cybork should also be considered mandatory.

Nobz: Rating 8/10Nobz are similar to Warboss's but after the initial charge they lack the punch for direct damage. Their best used to back up the Warboss from counter charging and to help with achieving penetrating hits during the charge.

Their best loadout is what ever the Warboss is riding in, so if your Warboss is on a bike put these guys on a bike as well. Don't go overboard with Power Klaws as they are expensive, they have a very high customization and can be set up to abuse the wound allocation rule which can be extremely beneficial to say the least. Always take a Painboy for Feel No Pain. 5 - 7 Nobz is plenty in a squad.

If youíre taking Meganobz your options are extremely limited, I would advise against Kombi-Rokkits as the chance of actually hitting with them is quite low. Also you must mount them in a Trukk or Battlewagon as on foot they are way to slow to achieve anything.

Tankbustas: Rating 10/10These guys are absolutely fantastic! Tank hammers, Bomb Squigs and Rokkits as standard! The one thing I really need and want to talk about is the Glory Hogs rule. The prevailing thought is that this make TB's bad or unviable. Let me set things straight, the Glory Hog rule is there to stop you the Warboss, from getting distracted and sending them off after other targets that are not what they are designed for. What about Monstrous Creatures you ask? Thatís the domain of Lootas. The job of Tankbustas is simple, busting tanks. Yes sometimes when theyíre out of range it would be better if they could shoot that monstrous creature or charge that retarded imperial guardsman squad but these things really only apply to footslogging TB's. If you mount them on a Trukk or Battlewagon and support them with other units you wonít notice the Glory Hog rule. Many people reading this will disagree about the Glory Hog rule, thatís fine, itís your hobby too and you can make heads or tails of it. I just don't think Glory Hogs is that bad of a rule and really doesn't mean squat if your using them properly anyways.

Use the Rokkit attacks to fire before you charge, this will achieve two things one you might rip off weapons and immobilize the vehicle, then charge in for the kill. If the unthinkable happens and the dice gods have cursed you and your melee attacks fail to kill the tank then you still have caused a lot of damage.

The load out for this squad is easy; give them all the Tank Hammers you can take and give the Nob a Power Klaw. Bomb Squigs are awesome and super fantastic but are not mandatory, especially if you have your Tankbustas mounted in a Trukk or Battlewagon. I personally would think twice about taking Bomb Squigs if I'm mounting them (which you should), thatís not to say don't take them, just the rules with Bomb Squigs means it can backfire bad if they are mounted. If you have foot slogging Tankbustas I would be of the mind to take Bomb Squigs.

Killa Kans: Rating 9/10Cheap and plentiful, these guys are fantastic at popping AV 14, they also have the benefit of being able to handle most things that can counter charge from an exploded transport. They have a higher BS than Orks so there ranged attack is very reliable compared to normal Orks. They are generally considered ranged units but make no mistake; they are awesome in a melee too just not as good as Deff Dreads which isn't really anything to be ashamed of.

Give them Rokkits, their higher BS will make sure more of them hit and if you get lucky you can immobilize the tank allowing the Kans to close and unleash direct damage to pop the AV 14.

Deff Dreads: Ratings 9/10Similar to the Killa Kans, the Deff Dread is the larger brother of the Kans. They have more attacks and higher armor but can be quite a bit more expensive. They can better handle the contents of the AV 14 vehicle because of these factors. There ranged attacks while higher in number are hampered by the Orks BS and this severely limits its hunting ability.

Give it either two Rokkits or two extra DCCW's, the Rokkits are cheap but Orky BS means they probably wont hit while the extra DCCW's loadout is far more effective but far more expensive. They will destroy any tank they get close to which can be worth it. The problem is with getting the tank close. Things like Eldar Grav Tanks can and will kite them. They do need to be supported by other mobs to stop and slow the fast enemy vehicles if they are armed with DCCW's.

Warbuggies: Rating 10/10These are great vehicles for the speed freaks, packing potent weaponry into a fragile, fast and cheap chassis. Use them to get around behind the enemy and do some major indirect damage, they are often ignored by less experienced opponents.

Give them Twinlinked Rokkits! The Trakk and Grot Riggers upgrades are nice if you have the points for it but are not mandatory in the least. Use these vehicles to get behind enemy vehicles for some great indirect damage. These things are so cheap that they can be a throw away unit in games where Killpoints don't matter. They are so fast and maneuverable that you can put them anywhere you need too. Itís hard for these guys not to swing the battle in your favor if you use them with even a slight bit of intelligence.

Battlewagons: Rating 9/10These things can carry a full compliment of Tankbusta's or Nobz into the heart of the enemy and it sports armor tough enough to see it through. It can have a score of upgrades to make it into any type of vehicle and is easily our best. It starts off cheap as chips and though you can upgrade it up the waaaghzoo this gets steadily more expensive as you do.

You have a few options with this vehicle, the BW starts off pretty cheap for what you get but upgrades really start to add to the cost. A few things that apply to all types of BW, if you receive a weapon destroyed result on the damage table and you have no weapons to remove it is treated as an immobilized result, it is in your best interest to add a few weapons to this beast. If points are tight, I would add two Big Shootas. Itís cheap and forces the enemy to get 3 weapon destroyed results before it becomes Immobilized.

One of the options for this bad boy is to make it into an armored assault carrier, give it two to three Rokkits and a Boarding Plank at a bare minimum. I would also give it Grot Riggers and Armor Plates, this will make it a little point heavy but it will be a hard beast to stop. With this option you can give it as a transport to either your Tankbusta's or your Nobz and it will make a fine transport for them.

Option two is to make it into a battle tank. To do this, give it a KillKannon and an Ard Top. Doing this gives you a rock hard tank that can mix it up with the best of them and it still has a transport capacity though you do loose the open topped bonus. I have purposely not included extra weapons on this beast for one reason. The Killkannon is the only weapon capable of direct damage and your first weapon destroyed result will be the Killkannon, meaning that it becomes fairly rubbish after that. If you want a proper tank/artillery piece I would suggest the Looted Wagon as it much cheaper and has a better gun.

Also the topic of the Deffrolla is the subject of numerous debates and threads on this board and across many many others. This guide does not want to set off one of those debates. I have read the Ork FAQ and the Ork Codex. The FAQ doesn't mention it and the codex says at least RAW wise that it cannot hit vehicles. Therefor I do not include it as a viable upgrade for dealing with AV 14. If you have a house rule or something similar that lets you use it to damage vehicles, then it is more than viable it is a mandatory upgrade for fighting AV 14!

Looted Wagons: Rating 8/10This is the Orky version of artillery and it does that job very well, you can run this as a transport or a battle tank. Its dirt cheap and other than the "Don't press dat!" rule itís a pretty good deal. Keep in mind when youíre using this vehicle as like many Orkish things it is a little random! To make this into a slayer of AV 14 you need the Boomgun upgrade. This thing is the business if you can keep it from scattering.

If points permit the Ard Top upgrade is a great option. If you give it the Boomgun you canít transport models so any advantages of open topped is lost. It is fragile though, it is not a battle tank so much as a ramshackle vehicle that has the biggest gun the local Orks could find and strap to it, so don't go driving it at a Monolith because it will be destroyed.

CombinationsThis section will detail what units work well with other units to bring down the AV 14. It must be made clear that all options listed above in the "effective units" section will work together; you don't even need to use that much imagination. Have a Looted Wagon in the back taking pot shots then have a Battlewagon with Warboss and Nobz running around taking out tanks head on. ALL of the options above were listed for a reason. They work together and have perfect or near perfect synergy. This section just lists some of the more effective combinations that are popular with many of the veterans!

Tankbustas + BattlewagonTankbustas hitch a ride with Battlewagon, which then drives them were they need to go. The Tankbustas can leap out combine there fire with the Battlewagonís Rokkits then charge in for some Tankhammer goodness. Use the Battlewagon to protect the TB's and get them where they need to be.

Warboss + Nobz + BattlewagonSee Tankbustas + Battlewagon

KillaKans + Deff DreadsUse the Killakanís Rokkits or KMB to immobilize the vehicle, then drive the Deff Dreads at the vehicles to rip it to shreds.

Deffdreads + WarbuggiesItís the same basic idea as KillaKans + Deff Dread, but easier to pull off as Warbuggies can get around for some indirect damage to the rear. Use the buggies to either immobilize enemy vehicles for the Deff Dreads to rip apart or outright destroy vehicles to clear a path for the Deff Dreads.

The MindsetThis section will detail the way to think and act when faced with a tough AV 14 vehicle. With many new Warboss's one of two things happen. Either they panic or despair and give up. You must do neither of these, if you have included a combination or even a single unit from above then you are well on your way to destroying the enemies AV 14.

Don't panic!

Firstly assess the threat then formulate a clear, concise and rational plan to assault the vehicle. We will call this plan A.

The second thing to do is assume plan A will fail. Formulate a second clear, concise and rational plan. We will call this plan B.

Now the key to forming this is ďDon't let your over all goal be the destruction of this tank!ĒRemember your Objectives and the Mission at hand. If your Mission is to seize 3 Objectives, then that is your priority. Do not loose sight of the bigger picture. That is the second mistake newer players make regularly.

Do not make the plans needlessly complicated; you don't have to have a whiteboard full of tactical information and detailed movement. Just make sure you know how you are going to deal with it.

Example:Your opponent deploys a Leman Russ Demolisher. Don't panic! Assess the threat! How is he going to play that unit? Ask the Imperial Guard player about its armament! You find out it has the Mighty Demolisher Cannon, a weapon capable of mass destruction of Ork and Marine alike. It also sports a hull Lascannon. He obviously bought that vehicle for its demolisher cannon so knowing the range we can determine that he will be driving that thing at us like a fiery comet from hell. Ask him about the tanks AV values. Knowing what we do now we can formulate Plan A!

Look at your army list and identify what you have that can lay that tank low. We discover that we have the foresight to bring Deffkoptas and some Tankbustas in a Battlewagon. Now to formulate Plan A! The Tankbustas will drive that Battlewagon head on towards the Demolisher firing all Rokkits at its Front Armor. This will be mostly ineffective but we will bring the Deff Koptas around in a wide arc. Using the Koptaís multiple Twin-linked Rokkits we will hit it in the rear looking to score penetrating hits. Hopefully the demolisher will be too distracted by the TBs and BWs to notice the DKs flanking it! Keeping in mind we have a very good chance of the Rokkits scoring glancing hits and destroying the main weapon!

Now for plan B. What happens if the TBs and BW fail to do anything to stop that LRD from firing and letís say the DKs get shot up by an Auto Cannon team. Now your plan A is going to fail on its arse. Plan B will be to drive that BW right up beside the LRD and fire every rokkit into the side armour and then charge into combat.

4.The Mighty Space Marine Land RaiderYour mighty green horde finds itself facing off against mankindís greatest protectors, The Adeptus Astarte's! Leading them into battle is a mighty and venerated Land Raider! This behemoth is the pinnacle of human armored technology and presents a problem that most AV 14 vehicles do not posses! Mainly being a transport vehicle and most often used to carry an elite unit that is often times just as hard to remove as the Land Raider itself. Why this causes a problem is that often times the unit that just turned that holy relic into a smoldering wreak of twisted and burnt metal is left exposed to the contents of Land Raider. Often times it is much like removing a barbed hook, you may remove it but you are going to loose a chunk of your arm doing so. Keep in mind that once itís removed, you often times have just removed 30 - 40% of your opponentís total points. This section will endeavor to make removing that hook as painless as is Orkly possible.

These vehicles are nothing special and as a player in the 40k universe you will need to get used to dealing with Land Raiders. These days, Land Raiders are as common as Rhinos. They are dangerous but that doesn't mean it will defeat you. They are a significant investment and many Marine players depend on them to win them the game, removing it from the game before it does too much damage or completes it mission will often times see you well on your way to winning the match.

Assess The Threat

1. Identify the type of Land Raider arrayed against you2. Work out how much damage the Land Raider itself can do. 3. What unit is it carrying if any at all?4. Compare 1 and 3 with the type of army he is using.5. Compare 4 with the mission

Typical Land Raider Plans

Counter assault: This configuration usually consists of a standard LR and will feature a unit such as Terminator Assault squads or Veterans of some description. It is common in gun line armies and will go after anything speeding towards its line. Late game it will go for either objectives or suicide on weak units for extra kill points.

Objective clearing: This configuration usually consists of a Redeemer or Crusader and will feature something along the lines of Termies of both types or Sternguard. Good players will use Sternguard, bad players will use Assault Termies. The Marines will drive this tank forward at the head of an armored fist that can feature Predators, Razorbacks and can be backed up with drop podding Dreads.

Anchor Point:This configuration will usually consist of a Standard LR and have Sternguard inside though standard Termies often feature. The typical play depends on whether the Marine is playing defensive or offensive, If offensive it will drive up and park about 18inch's from you army on a flank and deploy combi - melta/plasma Sternguard/termies who will shoot up any Boyz and Melta/Plasma any vehicles that come with 24 inches. Usually this means the other flank is going to be hit with Razorbacks and Rhinos. If he is playing defensively he will put it in the centre of his line and deploy the unit with it. This is usually part of a bait trap, watch for other tactical squads in rapid fire range of the unit as he will unload multiple rapid firing Tactical squads in the squad that took the bait.

Multi Purpose:This configuration is nearly always a standard LR with a squad of Standard Termies. The Marines won't have a clear objective for it until the start of the game. This is the easiest Plan to defeat as the marine player will be using it as a reactionary unit.

Suicide:This configuration is usually a Crusader or Redeemer packed with Assault Termies led by a Captain or Chapter Master (though more often is Vulcan/Marnius/Lysander) It will charge your lines with two objectives. First is to cause mass casualties amongst your Boyz and Vehicles. Second is to break up your advance and distract you from your objectives. This can be the hardest plan to deal with because usually at most you have two turns to set up the kill before its rampaging through your lines and being a general pain.

Formulate Plan A and B

The general plan here fairly simple; you need to identify the configuration from the above list. This is so you can predict its movement. Once you know the configuration and its predicted movement path you can then act rather than react. Knowing when and how itís going to move allows you to set a trap for it.

The key to popping Land Raiders and then destroying its contents is using multiple units to remove the threat. For example using Tankbustas to pop the tank and then using Dreads and/or Kans to kill the contents.

What units you have in your list will really determine how you deal with the threat. Going into detail about the most effective methods is beyond the scope of this Tactica but a few general tips will always help.

If itís Assault Terminators then deal with it via Dreads and/or Kans. If itís Sternguard then Nobz and MANZ are effective as well. The contents of a Land Raider will affect how you handle it. Don't be afraid to loose units, sending a Tankbusta squad to blow up the Land Raider is an effective method just make sure they have support be it Nobz or Kans or Dreads. This is critical, you must support your tank popper, it is uncommon for a marine player to field only one vehicle and to loose your Tankbustas after the first vehicle can still cause you to loose the game.

Once you have a primary plan, make a back up plan. It doesn't have to be detailed just make sure if your initial plan fails you have an idea how to handle it. This can be something as simple as charging a squad of 30 boys at the Terminators to tie them up, your Boyz will have enough attacks to make them take saves. One attack is unlikely to cause damage but 30 Boys charging will kill a lot of Terminators.

The most difficult set up to handle is LR + Assault Termies lead by a HQ or special character. These Units are rock hard and will cause you grief. I find the best way to handle this is with Kans and Dreads. The Marines will endeavor to get this suicide unit into a flank or center of your army.Lets say this Assault Termie squad has 3 LCs and 3 TH+SS, you pop the land raider and he charges your Kans or Dreads with the Termies, his Lightning Claws can't hurt your walkers so that means its your turn to strike. your opponent has a choice here, he can take the saves on the TH+SS so he gets a save but then he risks loosing them and risks his ability to strike back or he can take them on the LC and have them Insta Killed. Either way it works for you. Kans are cheap and they just royally messed up his plan by taking out half of his Assault Termie squad. You may not kill them all but you will be well on your way.

Reassess After Turn 1

You have a plan and a back up plan. What happens if the Marines don't use the Land Raider as you thought they would? What if he starts using that Land Raider as mobile pill box rather than a suicide unit? It means you need to change your tactics, if you had a trap set up and he either saw it or just did something totally random you need to modify your plan. While you will most likely still need to go after it, remember to stay focused on the mission. Blowing up the Land Raider whilst a moral victory, wonít win you the game if the marines control the objectives.

5.The Indestructible Necron Monolith

Your Greenskins stand ready against the C'tans silent slaves, the Necrons. In there midst of the phalanx is the towering Monolith. Its weapons radiate a sickly green aura that crackles with ethereal energy. This mighty symbol of the Necrons must be cast down! WAAAGH! The Necron Monolith has the special rule Living Metal and this is what makes it hard to take down. Often times Necron players will take multiple Monoliths, this can be both a good and a bad thing, having multiple templates will not be good for us Orks however the monoliths are extremely slow so getting to it shouldn't be a problem its the insane amount of weaponry shooting at you that will cause the problems. One very important thing to note is the cost of monoliths. The more monoliths he has on the table the less warriors he has, significantly less warriors. If he has three monoliths he has next to no warriors. Its a very important rule to remember.

As always follow the golden rules and you will bring these monstrosities down.

Monoliths look scary and thatís about the extent of there power. The have a short range and there real strength lies in:

1. Teleporting Necrons around the table 2. Letting them reroll there 'We Will Be Back" rolls3. itís Deepstrike ability.

Many Necron players do not feature them at all, while some will have three. These things can in some ways be more difficult than Land Raiders because once the Necrons realize your gunning for it they will start teleporting units back to try and kill your Tank Popper. Its worth noting, totally ignoring these can be in some case's a better tactic than gunning for it. Phase Out is a terrible rule for the Necrons and smashing his 50 warriors with dreads and Nobz is a perfectly viable tactic.

Assess The Threat

1. How many Monoliths do the Necrons have?2. How much damage is Lith/Liths going to do? 3. Compare 1 and 2 with the type of army he is using.4. Compare 3 with the mission

These things can be difficult to predict and counter if only because they can Deepstrike. Itís really important to not panic verses Monoliths. They look really scary but there really not that over the top.

The very first thing you need to do is count the Liths. Unlike the Land raider, bringing these down will severely hamper the Necrons ability to win and the more the Necrons have the more important to the Necrons they are so in some cases focusing all your anti tank on bringing them down is sometimes wise.

Remember they are short range, if one is sitting on the other side of the board it cannot hurt you.

How is he deploying them? Is he Deepstriking them? Has he got them upfront blocking LoS? Has he got them mid field providing fire support?

Typical Monolith Deployment ConfigurationsNB: These apply whether the Monolith is Deepstriking or not.

1.Fire supportOften times he will move it down the midfield. This achieves two things; it blocks LOS to the phalanx behind it and can bring its weapons to bear on your greenskins. He can then use it to teleport his Warriors out of CC with your Orks to then Rapid Fire into your now freshly in the open mob.

2. Flank MarchIn this configuration he moves it down one flank. This can be deadly to a new Warboss because he will often march his phalanx down the other flank and then teleports it to the Monolith side. This cause's you to be on the wrong foot and can often leave your fire support elements unsupported when the warriors deploy in front of them.

3. Wall MarchIn this configuration he marches his Monolith down the centre like the Firesupport configuration except it doesn't stop midfield. It keeps advancing, teleporting warriors into the centre of you army. Usually against Orks this would be suicide, except he wont charge your units. He will Rapid Fire into your mobs decimating them.

4. PillboxIn this configuration the Necrons will deploy a gunline army with the Monolith on either one side or dead centre. He is mostly depending on it for firesupport to help cripple your rapidly advancing horde. This Configuration usually gives him the most time to shoot your army. Keep in mind if he deploys it to one side he is baiting you. He wants you to attack the otherside so that he can then teleport his army out of there and form a second gunline. He is depending on your fear of the Monolith, show him what Orks think of fear and charge the Monolith side.

Formulate Plan A and B

The general plan here fairly simple, you need to identify the configuration from the above list. This is so you can predict its movement. Once you know the configuration and its predicted movement path you can then act rather than react. Knowing when and how itís going to move allows you to set a trap for it.

This can be much harder for the Monolith because it can Deepstrike. The key here is to watch how the phalanx moves, it will give away how the Monolith will deploy. Pay close attention, watch where his main body is moving, ignore where the Wraiths, Scarabs and Destroyers are moving, they move with Jetbike rules so they will often move to cloud his plan, what you are watching for are Warriors and Immortals. For example if he has his phalanx moving down one side he will deepstrike it on the opposite side. It is critical you ignore things like wraiths, scarabs and destroyers as these move with jet bike rules and can move to the other side on there own with out teleporting. I will say it again for emphasis, watch for the Warriors and Immortals they will give away how he is going to use the Monoliths.

When hitting the Monoliths our only real option is CC, any ranged option we have is negated by the Living Metal rule, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't shoot at it. You can still immobilize it and still lower the strength of the main gun, something your Boyz will appreciate. Just be aware you wonít remove it from the table via shooting. Because of this our effective mobs list got a whole lot smaller.

Warboss, Tankbustas, Deffdreds, Killa Kans and Power Klaw armed Nobz on the charge. These are the only units capable of removing it. The best of the best in our army for popping AV 14. If any of these guys get into combat with the Monoliths, they will remove it from the table.

Any plan of yours must focus on getting at least one of those above into combat with the Monoliths, anything else is second consideration. Watch for Scarabs, Wraiths and Destroyers moving to intercept them. They will attempt to tie them up in combat; support your Boyz and Walkers and they will bring them down. Do not let the Tank Poppers get locked into combat with something like Wraiths for 4 turns.

Reassess After Turn 1

You have a plan and a back up plan. What happens if the Necrons don't use the Monolith as you thought they would? What if he starts using that Monolith as mobile pill box rather than a Flank march? It means you need to change your tactics, if you had a trap set up and he either saw it or just did something totally random you need to modify your plan. While you will most likely still need to go after it, remember to stay focused on the mission. Blowing up the Monolith whilst a moral victory, wonít win you the game if the Necrons control the objectives.

here's part2. Also I should mention that you should put 2 spaces in front of new sentences. This better denotes the shift to a new sentence, it helps when skimming a text. Since you're consistent with 1 space though, you should probably just keep that.

3. Tactics, Combinations and the MindsetThis section will deal with the methods and mindset required to destroy AV 14. It will also dispel any myths that suggest that this is difficult or an Achilles heel for Orks of the 41st millennium. This section will by its very nature touch on the subjects of building a viable, strong and competitive list. This is not to be mistaken as tailoring which is something that in a general sense the community looks down upon and is viewed by some as very unsportsman like and quite the domain of the incompetent general. This section while focused on AV 14 will have to touch on previously said subjects.

****unsportsmanlike is 1 word.....one really really really long word. get rid of 'have to in the last sentence. its not needed, maybe change to also.****

Tactics

This section will detail how to fight AV 14 vehicles. This will explain the basic tactics and how you can apply it to your army. This will also explain some basic methods that will help the budding warboss effectively fight, counter and defeat the AV 14 arrayed against him.

****uppercase WarBoss because you're talking about the human person(pronoun)****

Firstly lets look at some of the facts about Orks have in general and against AV 14 vehicles.

1. SpeedWe are one of the fastest armies on the table and if done right, can easily match Eldar or their darker kin with ease.

2. Open topped vehiclesSome people think this a disadvantage, hardly, this fact, mixed with points 1 and 3 means we can argue that we are not only the fastest but also the most maneuverable army in the Warhammer universe, something the arrogant Eldar have taken for granted for too long.

3. Close Combat monstersOur greatest most reliable methods for popping AV 14 tin cans is in close combat.

****but orks have no monsters. I'd change this to Close Combat Masters. We have no monstrous creatures****

4. Sheer numbersOrks donít do small things, they do them in mass amounts both in shooting and assaulting. When they do something they do it en masse.

5. Bad BSOrks cant shoot straight, its a fact of orky life. They canít hit the broadside of a barn, while inside the barn 5 feet from the wall.

Looking at these five points we can with certainty say we have found the ideal way for us to handle AV 14. By using our speed, our open topped vehicles and close combat prowess and taking into account that Orkís primary damage method isn't shooting we can discern our main methods for us to deal with AV 14.

With our main method of attack finalized we can now begin formulating a plan to destroy our enemies.

Effective Units

This section will deal with the actual methods, mobs and combinations designed to bring down AV 14. What any Warboss must remember and this is critical, you must always remember indirect damage. The vast majority of enemy tanks in this game do not have AV 14 all the way around and this is where we will have most success. I will repeat this for the sake of emphasis. You must remember indirect damage. Why shoot at AV 14 when you can hit AV 13 or AV 12? This will increase your total number of penetrating hits and therefore increase your chance to destroy the enemy vehicle.

When taking on an AV 14 vehicle you must use our strengths and turn them in advantages while minimizing our weakness so as not to turn into a disadvantage. Use your speed to get around behind the enemy tank, use your open topped transports to shoot then assault the enemy. Use multiple units to bring down the tank. That being said here is a list of the most effective units and combinations and the tactics and strategies behind them that make them effective. Please note that all listings here are in reference to AV 14 not to general table top performance and any advice given here is in relation to solely hunting AV 14 and again not for general table top performance.

Warboss: Rating 10/10This bad arse is a long time favorite of Ork players everywhere, capable of mass destruction of vehicles. He can have multiple strength 10 attacks when geared right. While his tank busting ability is unrivaled it is his ability to kill what that AV 14 was carrying that makes him the stand out performer. The Warboss can kill the tank and then take the charge of the enemy combatants if they survive the explosion. He is arguably our best tank buster and this is only enhanced when combined with Nobz.

His best loadout is either in a Trukk/battlewagon or on a bike. Footslogging Warboss's tend to get killed. He should have a Power Klaw and Attack Squig, those upgrades are mandatory. Eavy Armor and Cybork should also be considered mandatory.

*****include a sentence as to why these are mandatory. For instance why should he have both heavy armor and cybork??****

Nobz: Rating 8/10Nobz are similar to Warboss's but after the initial charge they lack the punch for direct damage. Their best used to back up the Warboss from counter charging and to help with achieving penetrating hits during the charge.

Their best loadout is what ever the Warboss is riding in, so if your Warboss is on a bike put these guys on a bike as well. Don't go overboard with Power Klaws as they are expensive, they have a very high customization and can be set up to abuse the wound allocation rule which can be extremely beneficial to say the least. Always take a Painboy for Feel No Pain. 5 - 7 Nobz is plenty in a squad.

If youíre taking Meganobz your options are extremely limited, I would advise against Kombi-Rokkits as the chance of actually hitting with them is quite low. Also you must mount them in a Trukk or Battlewagon as on foot they are way to slow to achieve anything.

Tankbustas: Rating 10/10These guys are absolutely fantastic! Tank hammers, Bomb Squigs and Rokkits as standard! The one thing I really need and want to talk about is the Glory Hogs rule. The prevailing thought is that this make TB's bad or unviable. Let me set things straight, the Glory Hog rule is there to stop you the Warboss, from getting distracted and sending them off after other targets that are not what they are designed for. What about Monstrous Creatures you ask? Thatís the domain of Lootas. The job of Tankbustas is simple, busting tanks. Yes sometimes when theyíre out of range it would be better if they could shoot that monstrous creature or charge that retarded imperial guardsman squad but these things really only apply to footslogging TB's. If you mount them on a Trukk or Battlewagon and support them with other units you wonít notice the Glory Hog rule. Many people reading this will disagree about the Glory Hog rule, thatís fine, itís your hobby too and you can make heads or tails of it. I just don't think Glory Hogs is that bad of a rule and really doesn't mean squat if your using them properly anyways.

****unviable is not a word, use nonviable. should read...Glory Hog rule is there to stop you, the Warboss, from...(add comma)****

Use the Rokkit attacks to fire before you charge, this will achieve two things one you might rip off weapons and immobilize the vehicle, then charge in for the kill. If the unthinkable happens and the dice gods have cursed you and your melee attacks fail to kill the tank then you still have caused a lot of damage.

The load out for this squad is easy; give them all the Tank Hammers you can take and give the Nob a Power Klaw. Bomb Squigs are awesome and super fantastic but are not mandatory, especially if you have your Tankbustas mounted in a Trukk or Battlewagon. I personally would think twice about taking Bomb Squigs if I'm mounting them (which you should), thatís not to say don't take them, just the rules with Bomb Squigs means it can backfire bad if they are mounted. If you have foot slogging Tankbustas I would be of the mind to take Bomb Squigs.

Killa Kans: Rating 9/10Cheap and plentiful, these guys are fantastic at popping AV 14, they also have the benefit of being able to handle most things that can counter charge from an exploded transport. They have a higher BS than Orks so there ranged attack is very reliable compared to normal Orks. They are generally considered ranged units but make no mistake; they are awesome in a melee too just not as good as Deff Dreads which isn't really anything to be ashamed of.

Give them Rokkits, their higher BS will make sure more of them hit and if you get lucky you can immobilize the tank allowing the Kans to close and unleash direct damage to pop the AV 14.

Deff Dreads: Ratings 9/10Similar to the Killa Kans, the Deff Dread is the larger brother of the Kans. They have more attacks and higher armor but can be quite a bit more expensive. They can better handle the contents of the AV 14 vehicle because of these factors. There ranged attacks while higher in number are hampered by the Orks BS and this severely limits its hunting ability.

Give it either two Rokkits or two extra DCCW's, the Rokkits are cheap but Orky BS means they probably wont hit while the extra DCCW's loadout is far more effective but far more expensive. They will destroy any tank they get close to which can be worth it. The problem is with getting the tank close. Things like Eldar Grav Tanks can and will kite them. They do need to be supported by other mobs to stop and slow the fast enemy vehicles if they are armed with DCCW's.

Warbuggies: Rating 10/10These are great vehicles for the speed freaks, packing potent weaponry into a fragile, fast and cheap chassis. Use them to get around behind the enemy and do some major indirect damage, they are often ignored by less experienced opponents.

Give them Twinlinked Rokkits! The Trakk and Grot Riggers upgrades are nice if you have the points for it but are not mandatory in the least. Use these vehicles to get behind enemy vehicles for some great indirect damage. These things are so cheap that they can be a throw away unit in games where Killpoints don't matter. They are so fast and maneuverable that you can put them anywhere you need too. Itís hard for these guys not to swing the battle in your favor if you use them with even a slight bit of intelligence.

Battlewagons: Rating 9/10These things can carry a full compliment of Tankbusta's or Nobz into the heart of the enemy and it sports armor tough enough to see it through. It can have a score of upgrades to make it into any type of vehicle and is easily our best. It starts off cheap as chips and though you can upgrade it up the waaaghzoo this gets steadily more expensive as you do.

You have a few options with this vehicle, the BW starts off pretty cheap for what you get but upgrades really start to add to the cost. A few things that apply to all types of BW, if you receive a weapon destroyed result on the damage table and you have no weapons to remove it is treated as an immobilized result, it is in your best interest to add a few weapons to this beast. If points are tight, I would add two Big Shootas. Itís cheap and forces the enemy to get 3 weapon destroyed results before it becomes Immobilized.

One of the options for this bad boy is to make it into an armored assault carrier, give it two to three Rokkits and a Boarding Plank at a bare minimum. I would also give it Grot Riggers and Armor Plates, this will make it a little point heavy but it will be a hard beast to stop. With this option you can give it as a transport to either your Tankbusta's or your Nobz and it will make a fine transport for them.

****not sure what youre going for here, do you mean an anti-armor BW?****

Option two is to make it into a battle tank. To do this, give it a KillKannon and an Ard Top. Doing this gives you a rock hard tank that can mix it up with the best of them and it still has a transport capacity though you do loose the open topped bonus. I have purposely not included extra weapons on this beast for one reason. The Killkannon is the only weapon capable of direct damage and your first weapon destroyed result will be the Killkannon, meaning that it becomes fairly rubbish after that. If you want a proper tank/artillery piece I would suggest the Looted Wagon as it much cheaper and has a better gun.

Also the topic of the Deffrolla is the subject of numerous debates and threads on this board and across many many others. This guide does not want to set off one of those debates. I have read the Ork FAQ and the Ork Codex. The FAQ doesn't mention it and the codex says at least RAW wise that it cannot hit vehicles. Therefor I do not include it as a viable upgrade for dealing with AV 14. If you have a house rule or something similar that lets you use it to damage vehicles, then it is more than viable it is a mandatory upgrade for fighting AV 14!

Looted Wagons: Rating 8/10This is the Orky version of artillery and it does that job very well, you can run this as a transport or a battle tank. Its dirt cheap and other than the "Don't press dat!" rule itís a pretty good deal. Keep in mind when youíre using this vehicle as like many Orkish things it is a little random! To make this into a slayer of AV 14 you need the Boomgun upgrade. This thing is the business if you can keep it from scattering.

If points permit the Ard Top upgrade is a great option. If you give it the Boomgun you canít transport models so any advantages of open topped is lost. It is fragile though, it is not a battle tank so much as a ramshackle vehicle that has the biggest gun the local Orks could find and strap to it, so don't go driving it at a Monolith because it will be destroyed.

CombinationsThis section will detail what units work well with other units to bring down the AV 14. It must be made clear that all options listed above in the "effective units" section will work together; you don't even need to use that much imagination. Have a Looted Wagon in the back taking pot shots then have a Battlewagon with Warboss and Nobz running around taking out tanks head on. ALL of the options above were listed for a reason. They work together and have perfect or near perfect synergy. This section just lists some of the more effective combinations that are popular with many of the veterans!

Tankbustas + BattlewagonTankbustas hitch a ride with Battlewagon, which then drives them were they need to go. The Tankbustas can leap out combine there fire with the Battlewagonís Rokkits then charge in for some Tankhammer goodness. Use the Battlewagon to protect the TB's and get them where they need to be.

Warboss + Nobz + BattlewagonSee Tankbustas + Battlewagon

KillaKans + Deff DreadsUse the Killakanís Rokkits or KMB to immobilize the vehicle, then drive the Deff Dreads at the vehicles to rip it to shreds.

Deffdreads + WarbuggiesItís the same basic idea as KillaKans + Deff Dread, but easier to pull off as Warbuggies can get around for some indirect damage to the rear. Use the buggies to either immobilize enemy vehicles for the Deff Dreads to rip apart or outright destroy vehicles to clear a path for the Deff Dreads.

The MindsetThis section will detail the way to think and act when faced with a tough AV 14 vehicle. With many new Warboss's one of two things happen. Either they panic or despair and give up. You must do neither of these, if you have included a combination or even a single unit from above then you are well on your way to destroying the enemies AV 14.

Don't panic!

Firstly assess the threat then formulate a clear, concise and rational plan to assault the vehicle. We will call this plan A.

The second thing to do is assume plan A will fail. Formulate a second clear, concise and rational plan. We will call this plan B.

Now the key to forming this is ďDon't let your over all goal be the destruction of this tank!ĒRemember your Objectives and the Mission at hand. If your Mission is to seize 3 Objectives, then that is your priority. Do not loose sight of the bigger picture. That is the second mistake newer players make regularly.

Do not make the plans needlessly complicated; you don't have to have a whiteboard full of tactical information and detailed movement. Just make sure you know how you are going to deal with it.

Example:Your opponent deploys a Leman Russ Demolisher. Don't panic! Assess the threat! How is he going to play that unit? Ask the Imperial Guard player about its armament! You find out it has the Mighty Demolisher Cannon, a weapon capable of mass destruction of Ork and Marine alike. It also sports a hull Lascannon. He obviously bought that vehicle for its demolisher cannon so knowing the range we can determine that he will be driving that thing at us like a fiery comet from hell. Ask him about the tanks AV values. Knowing what we do now we can formulate Plan A!

Look at your army list and identify what you have that can lay that tank low. We discover that we have the foresight to bring Deffkoptas and some Tankbustas in a Battlewagon. Now to formulate Plan A! The Tankbustas will drive that Battlewagon head on towards the Demolisher firing all Rokkits at its Front Armor. This will be mostly ineffective but we will bring the Deff Koptas around in a wide arc. Using the Koptaís multiple Twin-linked Rokkits we will hit it in the rear looking to score penetrating hits. Hopefully the demolisher will be too distracted by the TBs and BWs to notice the DKs flanking it! Keeping in mind we have a very good chance of the Rokkits scoring glancing hits and destroying the main weapon!

Now for plan B. What happens if the TBs and BW fail to do anything to stop that LRD from firing and letís say the DKs get shot up by an Auto Cannon team. Now your plan A is going to fail on its arse. Plan B will be to drive that BW right up beside the LRD and fire every rokkit into the side armour and then charge into combat.

Many people feel that there are so many better choices in the ork codex that the lowly burna boy is often ignored. Well I am here to tell you that the burna boys are one of the best choices the orks have for their elite slots. With the profile of a regular ork, they are the closest thing we have to being a super unit.

Now of course this unit must be correctly used, putting it in the wrong place and they will do nothing all game, pitting them against the wrong opponent will simply get them wiped out, but having them in the right place against the right enemy units will be game winning. So hopefully this article will help all you aspiring war bosses to better equip your army.

First, let us discuss size, as in most things ork, the bigger the better, and the more the merrier. Unfortunately, for us, GW sells them in packs of five. Actually, there are only four burnas and mek, so if you want a pure burna squad you will have to buy four packs, which will leave you one extra, of course you can just use this last one for your commando squad. Nevertheless, you will need at least five, as this is the minimum size squad you can take. The best is a squad of 10 as it makes math easier, but for ludicrous results, you should take a squad of 15. I personally run a squad of 15 of which 3 are meks with KMB.

The flamer template causes a wound on any model it touches; this is good as ork shooting is poor, so causing automatic hits is a good thing for orks. Since you are allowed to move the template around to optimize wounds you can usually get multiple hits that turn into multiple wounds. A single burna can usually cause multiple wounds that usually results in a fatality of at least one enemy. The less the armor save the better the chances of killing more, and since the AP for the burna is 5 when fighting eldar, IG, nids, and other orks the burna will certainly kill as many as it hits. Now if your squad has more flamer templates, then you will certainly kill even more. Thus the more the merrier!

There are many uses for burna boys; the obvious one is the flaming of massed troops. Move into a semi circle around a large squad of IG or nids and lay out as many templates as there are burna boys and wipe out the squad. Of course, this means that you maneuvered them well, and got to within burning distance without being shot to pieces.

They are a great defensive unit, as the prospect of assaulting them is grim, with the wall of death rule (page 52 of the rule book for wall of death) it is almost suicidal to assault burna boys. But to leave them standing around waiting for someone to come close enough is a waste of points and not really very orky. That is why you want your burna boys up front of the fight, where they will have the chance to do the most damage.

The solution to this is to mount them, put them in a looted vehicle or Battle wagon. My preferred vehicle is the Battle Wagon, as it has a higher transport capacity as well as better armor, and the ability to take some nice additional kit.

Of course, you can buy a truck for your boys or nobs and then make them walk so the burnas can ride, but this requires some careful maneuvering and set up, not to mention your nobs will be mad at you for taking away their truck. So just buy a looted vehicle, for about the same cost as a truck, or go full in and buy the battle wagon, and you do not have to worry about the transport problem.

When mounted in a vehicle the templates stack. According to the rules, (page 82 of the rule book) all models in an open top vehicle can fire measuring from the hull. This means that you can place the template from any point in the hull; and this allows you to maximize the amount of hits. Again according to the rules (page 52 of the rule book) it says to resolve the shots one at a time. Well now, here comes the beauty of the mounted burnas; instead of laying the template down once for each burna boy you simply lay it down once and you then multiply those hits by the number of burna boys.

For example, if your vehicle has 12 burna boys in it, and it drives up next to an enemy unit and lays out the template that covers 5 marines, now multiply that by 12. That is 60 hits, which should average 30 wounds, which should average 10 casualties. That's one dead tactical squad, and if it is a larger squad of other types of enemy then you will get better results. For example if you can cover 13 termagaunts that's 154 hits that will result in 110 wounds, this in turn will cause one wiped out squad of nids.

The next use of the burn boys is to clean out bastions. According to the rules (page 94 of the rule book) if a template covers a firing port the contents of the building take D6 hits. Simply drive your battle wagon of burna boys up to the door and let loose. So again the templates stack and cause 12D6 hits which is usually enough to dramatically thin out the defenders, against lightly armored enemy, such as IG and daemons, you will clean out the bastion so that another of your units can just walk in and claim the building for themselves.

When firing into ruins or battlements (page 101 of the rule book) you can clean off a level of the building. Now the tricky part is that you can only clean off the level you aim at, so make sure to aim for the level with the most enemy models. Sometimes though you may want to choose the lesser models, especially if they are heavy weapons teams. If you have six members of a long fang squad on the top level and a unit of ten grey hunters on the lower level, you might want to burn out the long fangs as their shooting is more of a threat. Then rely on the wall of death to thin out the grey hunters when they assault.

Yet another use for them is the power weapon spam. If you do not shoot with them before getting into an assault you can use the burna as a power weapon in combat (see page 61 of the rule book the "Unusual Power Weapons" entry, and page 45 of the Ork codex). Against most things, this will wipe them out, the burna boys get three attacks on the charge, this is more than enough to cause massive casualties to the enemy. Unfortunately, as their initiative is low you will lose some before they strike so you will not get the full amount of your potential impact. So against a squad of regular marines you will lose about half your squad, but the good news is that the half that remains will kill enough to win the combat if not outright kill off all the enemy unit.

Now you can make them almost immortal. Keeping them in the battle wagon will keep them safe from shooting casualties. If/when the battle wagon gets assaulted you can "Wall of Death" overwatch fire them, causing an automatic D3 hits per template before the enemy even moves (see page 21 to see that overwatch happens before rolling the charge). Most times this will prevent the charge as all the enemy models that were close enough are dead. In the event that it doesn't kill enough to prevent the charge, then it will have thinned out the enemy enough so that there is not enough attacks to destroy the battle wagon.

About the meks. You have the option to make up to three of them as meks with kustom mega blasters (KMB). The mek weapon is basically a plasma gun, and of course, it gets hot, and when it does it kill that mek. The advantage is that they have longer range than the burnas and can kill most things armored when they hit. They are good for fixing your vehicle that you are in too. Say your wagon gets immobilized; you now have three chances to fix it. The KMB has a chance to insta-kill most thing toughness 4 like space marine heroes, and nid warriors. Of course, you have to hit, which is why you take three. On an average shooting phase, one will hit and wound, and the AP is low enough that unless the victim has an invulnerable save they will die. In addition, the meks are good for taking as casualties in combat, assign them wounds first. This will leave more power weapon attacks for later.

My favorite way to use them is in a battlewagon with a death roller. This allows the unit to ram vehicles, or to slow down for a drive by flaming. Not to mention the better armor of the battle wagon will help keep the burna boys alive longer. As once you have flamed a unit out of existence a time or two, this squad will become a higher target priority for your opponent. Now if you want to have the battle wagon shooting just add on as many big shootas as you can afford. Once the battle wagon has moved it can still shoot all of its weapons, just as snap shots instead of the regular ballistic skill (page 71 of the rule book). That is still a lot of shots and will cause damage eventually. There are some who also argue for taking maximum rockit launchas, if you have the points to spend, go for it. The battle wagon can shoot at a different target than the burna boys, and thus makes your unit very shooty.

The last thing, but not least, is to add a big mek with a kustom force field (KFF) and a boss pole to this unit. The burna boys do not have the option for a boss pole so the big mek can fill this role nicely. The built in cover save will also allow your battle wagon to live longer, and thus the burna boys live longer to kill more of your enemy. Then if the battle wagon gets destroyed, you still have the ability to re-roll any failed leadership, smacking the lesser meks of course. Another bonus is that the big mek can take a burna as well as his KFF, adding another template to the stack.

While this article is not the end all of the burna boys, I hope it has given you some good ideas and has encouraged you to get your own squad so you can go out and make your enemies do the burny dance.

« Last Edit: July 27, 2012, 09:16:01 AM by SKEETERGOD »

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"It needs but one foe to breed a war. And even those who have not swords can still die upon them" (Lady Eowyn)We orks are not about being the hero; We orks are about being the mob.

Quote from: angel of death 007

Skeetergod: (adj) A crazy fascination for all things combustible mixed with an unhealty lust for red paint. see also Speed Freak

The Green Baron is the only unit in the entire ork list that works as an individual. There is the Green Torpedo, but he is a lot more expensive points wise, and uses up a HQ slot. But this is not about the green torpedo, this is about the Green Baron.

Photos courtesy of angel of death 007(click on picture for larger view)

So what is a Green Baron? Simple, he is a single death copta with rockits and buzz saw. A choice on the fast attack in your force org chart. His mission is to kill enemy armor, and harass enemy heavy support. This is a job he does very well; the twin link rockits can punch most armor, and in assault the saw counts as a power klaw. Being a jet bike he can ignore terrain, going over it instead of around it, and if he does choose to enter terrain he has a decent enough save that he won't die every time he does fail a terrain test.

As for most things ork; the more the better, the Green Baron is the exception to that rule, specifically: *He never runs away; he is either on the board or dead. *Twin link rockits makes him a fairly good shot. *And the saw makes anything with rear armor 12 or less a nice juicy target.

How to use the Green Baron.There are two main methods for using the Baron: #1: Start him on the board and during the scout move part of set up, move towards the enemy. This tactic is called the alpha strike. If you have first turn this is a very viable tactic. On the start of your turn move full move towards the enemy and then during the shooting phase make the turbo boost move to get deep into enemy territory and behind your opponents heavy support. The turbo move gives the baron a 3+ cover save, that will protect him from most enemy shooting, and gets him well within strike range to do his damage. Then on turn two, shooting a tank, and if you don't kill it then assault it. Since in assault you are striking against rear armor, his buzz saw can usually cut through it killing the tank. If you lose the initiative, then your Baron will be right out front and an easy target. He will most likely be killed and will have done his job by drawing fire away from the rest of the army. If you are going second, don't count on getting the initiative, and so go with method number two.

#2: The other method is to start him in reserve, with his outflanking ability you can come in along either side, so decide where it is best to come in, pray for the correct dice roll, then come in behind your enemy and kill his heavy support. With this you stand a 1 in 3 chance of coming in from the wrong side of the board, but with his turbo move he can be in position to do his work soon enough. Since on the turn you come in you cannot assault, just be able to angle his line of sight so he gets a rear facing for his rockit to hit. Of course there is a chance the dice hate you, and the Baron won't come in until the fourth turn, in which case he is there for vengence, and not fire diversion.

Either way the Baron is not killing stuff until turn two at the earliest and turn four at the latest. That is if he doesn't get killed right off the bat.

On occasion, I have sacrificed him by charging a devastator/long fang squad so that they couldn't shoot at my Battle Wagon, and of course he died, but it moved the devastators (with their required pile in move) to the other side of the building so they did not have line of sight to my BW. Of course, this situation does not come up often but it was worth a mention. With the 6th ed rules he now has a permanent toughness of five, so he is harder to wound in combat, so the combat will last longer. Just try to not get into a fight with a squad that has power weapons as the Baron does not have an invulnerable save.

I am a great fan of the Green Baron, for what he does it is a great investment in points. If you are facing an opponent who has never faced the baron before you are going to show him how devastating the baron is. He will kill many tanks and transports if left unmolested. Once he has ravaged an enemy, he usually becomes a top priority target.

It all boils down to this: The baron either is devastating to the enemy, or dies quick.

On the occasions where he does not do well, is when opposing players who have suffered the ravages of the baron, target him relentlessly on the first turn until he is dead. This is also good, as a lot of fire has gone into the baron and not into my trucks allowing me to speed across the board and get stuck in unscathed.

The one thing you want to avoid is charging the baron into combat with infantry. He is not a CC expert, as a matter of fact he is not even good at it. Charging into infantry will only get the baron killed. Unless you are sacrificing him to make the enemy move away from your forces, or making them use their pile in to draw them off an objective, or out of cover, then use your move to stay far enough away to avoid combat.

Of course he is an ork, and if there is a weakened infantry unit that doesn't have a power fist or thunder hammer in it, you can assault those to try to get the victory point. It is always good to kick-em when their down, so rather than let that last lone trooper contest an objective, go ahead and use the baron to take him out.

Another caveat to add; is never charge a dreadnought. Even though they are technically a vehicle, they will strike first and kill your Baron every time. Use the Baron to get behind them and shoot them in the rear armor, just stay out of combat with them.

In conclusion, it is my (not so) humble opinion that the Green Baron is the best anti tank unit the orks have. He is cheap compared to other anti armor the orks have, and is fast. Not to mention that he will be a top target priority to your opponent once you have used the Green Baron for Effect.

« Last Edit: July 27, 2012, 09:56:40 AM by SKEETERGOD »

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"It needs but one foe to breed a war. And even those who have not swords can still die upon them" (Lady Eowyn)We orks are not about being the hero; We orks are about being the mob.

Quote from: angel of death 007

Skeetergod: (adj) A crazy fascination for all things combustible mixed with an unhealty lust for red paint. see also Speed Freak

Sos, you fink you wanna play some dedd 'ard, dedd killie Nobz? Well good fer you! You kame to da propa place fer it.

Ok, to be serious and to preserve my brain (I'm not too good at talking Ork, I'm ashamed to admit), time to drop the accent. It feels like I've been rambling about Nobz in a fair number of posts recent and I figured, time to give something back, hey? So here I'm going to take a look at our beloved Nobz. I'm not going to tell you HOW to use Nobz. You're the Warboss, that's YOUR job. But I want folks to have a clear understand of what their strengths and weakness are and WHY they might want to use them, so they can make good choices on that how. So 'ere we go!

General

Rule 1: The best upgrade to Boyz is more Boyz. What does that have to do with Nobz, you ask? Well, it doesn't directly. But I think its worth pointing out that if you spend an equal number of points on Boyz and Nobz (and they are all still alive, which is where rule 2 comes in), against almost every possible foe, the Boyz will both do more damage to anything they can wound and will be able to take more damage before losing the unit. So keep that in mind.

Rule 2: Nobz is ded 'ard. Now, by this, I don't mean they can be hard to kill, though they can be. But what I really want to highlight is they way Nobz hold onto their offense power. Let's start with a very simple example: 10 Nobz with no extra gear at all vs 20 Slugga Boyz. Same number of wounds, same toughness, same armor save (though the Boyz are cheaper, which is where Rule 1 comes in). Each unit takes, lets say, 3 unsaved wounds. The Boyz have now lost 3 Boyz, which is 15% of their offensive power. The Nobz, however, have lost only 1 Nob, or 10% of their power.

This will be true any time the units have taken an odd number of wounds -- the Nobz will be in better shape in assaults then the Boyz. Then we start adding the many fine Nob upgrades and start wound allocating and we can have a unit that can take enough damage to easily kill an entire squad of 30 boyz or more... and between Feel No Pain, better saves, and Wound Allocation, can STILL BE AT 100% of its starting offensive ability. Make no mistake; it is this ability right here that makes Nob units such a useful and powerful addition to an Ork army.

Rule 3: Wound Allocation.Mhh, smell the cheese. Honestly, I used to be very against these type of tactics and they still aren't the type of thing I would take to a for fun game over at a friend's house. But as other armies have gained similar abilities (take Thunder Wolf Cavalry for a shining example) I feel far less bad about using such tactics then I once did.

For those not familiar with the concept, they way Wound Allocation works is to make sure each model has different Wargear. This allows you to assign and roll each wound individually. This in turn means with a little care and just small amount of luck, every Nob in the squad can take 1 wound before any of them has to take a second and be removed -- up to 10 wounds total in a full sized squad. This works hand in hand with Rule 2 to make the Nobz the nasty unit we know and love.

Wargear

Offensive

Power Klaw:Ahh, the beloved power klaw. The signature nasty ork close combat weapon. The ability to bypass armor and double (+1 on the charge) Strength are great and these weapons are a vital part of any Ork army. Any Nob squad should probably have one. That isn't in question. But as nice as these are, how MANY Pkís to take is a question. Because they are:

a) expensive, and b) slow

On paper each Power Klaw adds a significant increase in the total killyness of your Nobz. In the 'real' (made-up real?) world, each one weakens the rest of your army as you pile more points into a single unit and increase the odds of the Nob being killed before he can use the Pk. So itís important to find a balance on just how many to take.

The rule of thumb I've found to be useful is 1 Power Klaw per 3 nobz, rounding down. So a 5 man squad would have 1, a full 10 man squad would have 3, and say a 7 man squad would have 2. I find this to be a good balance between keeping the squad at a reasonable point level, keeping enough buffer models to keep your Pkís safe, and still being very killy for the size. If you want a higher ratio of Klaws then this, I suggest taking a serious look at Meganobz instead, which give you not just a Klaw but a 2+ armor save and a Twin-Linked Shoota for 5 points less then a regular Pk Nob (even if he has no other upgrades!).

Big Choppa:The Power Klaw's underestimated little brother. These things are cheap, so itís easy to take a lot of them. And against a fairly standard toughness 4 foe, they will increase your number of wounds per hit by 25% on the charge or 67% when not charging. Thatís huge! They also make nobz more serious threat to just about any MC or vehicle.

While I wouldn't call them required, I would never call points spent on Big Choppa's wasted and they are always worth serious consideration. These bad boyz are really nifty weapons for hunting dreadnoughts, non-AV 14 all around armor, and for inflicting a lot of wounds at initiative to power through the saves of things like terminators.

Stikkbombs:You know, this is one of the tiny handful of units in the entire codex I might take these Stickbombs with. Ork initative is low enough that itís rarely worth the bother - you'll go last one way or another. But nobz are I4 on the charge. Thatís enough to tie many units and beat some, so all of a sudden getting that quick blow in when charging into cover becomes useful. This wouldn't be a first pick upgrade to a Nob squad for me, but when you reach the 'I've got 10 points left before the point limit, what do I spend them on' point, these are certainly worth a look.

The Guns (in general):This is true for all 3 of the gun upgrades below -- these upgrades are generally best taken along side Big Choppas or Power Klaws. This is because they will cost a slugga/choppa Nob a close combat attack. There are perfectly valid reasons to put them on a Slugga/Choppa Nob anyways (notably wound allocation) but itís certainly worth mentioning that they are a better value on the Big Choppa/Power Klaw models.

Twin-Linked Shoota:I don't, personally, like this upgrade. Trying to look at it objectively, it doubles the Nobz's number of shots, adds 6" to his range, and makes his shooting 67% more accurate. You gotta call it a reasonable value for its low cost. But your Nobz should be trying to get into hand to hand! You wanna sit back and shoot things, take Flash Gitz. I gotta call this an ok upgrade, but I really don't wanna.

Kombi-Skorcha:Now hereís a gun I'm ok with. The Shoota portion doesn't really matter, but a one shot heavy flamer is very nice. You often donít need to fire a flamer weapon more then once per game anyways, so the single shot is fine, and its up close and personal, right were a Nob should be. The potential damage it can do given its low cost makes it a great choice. The one caution I would have on it is that it can inflict enough casualties that a unit can go from being in assault range to being out of assault range. For this reason, I think (unlike most other Nob upgrades) that it actually becomes a better choice the smaller your unit is, rather then the other way around. Regardless itís a solid option at any unit size.

Kombi-rokkit:I gotta call it the worst of all the Nob gun options (even though I'd personally take it over the twin-linked shootas). The basic Shoota isn't worth much and 1 Rokkit shot at Ork BS almost never amounts to anything. Still it can be used to give you another different set of Wargear for Wound Allocation and taking potshots at transports as you close in the hopes that you get lucky and so can go straight into assault with the juice center is a worthwhile pastime.

Ammo Runt:Uses for this upgrade: cheap wound allocation? Seriously, there isn't much point to this upgrade. Slugga's are there for keeping moral up by making fun loud noises. Any hits from them are accidents and you should use any rerolls to make these shots miss instead. The Twin-Linked Shoota is twin-linked, and you can't reroll a reroll anyways. The Kombi-Skorcha is there for the Skorcha portion, which has no to hit roll. I suppose it could have a valid use combined with a Kombi-Rokkit -- 60% more points then for the Kombi-Rokkit alone in return for 66% more accuracy. Not a combination I've ever tried personally.

Defensive

Bosspole:Your Nobz should have a Bosspole. Yes, they should still have a Bosspole even if you do that. Yup, even then, they should have a Bosspole. Look, quit arguing -- your Nobz still need a Bosspole. Just take the Bosspole already.

Ok, to be somewhat seriously now, I really can only think of 1 possible situation where I wouldn't give a Nob squad a Bosspole -- if I was taking 3 with no gear at all purely to get another battlewagon in a list. Nobs are an expensive unit that will never hit the Mob Rule Fearless threshold. Keeping them from running away should always be a high priority. I've seen some folks take 2 or more bosspoles in a single squad -- this I don't quite understand. Your Bosspole should be on a model well 'back' in the squad so by the time you risk him getting killed off, you squad should be darn near gone anyways. Even for Wound Allocation purposes I don't see it -- there are other, better things for equal or fewer points that can be used for that.

'Eavy Armor:My least favorite defensive upgrade, but itís still worth a look. Saving 3 times as many wounds is a good thing, and making an expensive model harder to kill is another major plus. But some of the most effective dedicated anti-infantry weapons, like Heavy Bolters or Heavy Flamers, will cut through this armor like butter, so its not quite as shinny as it looks at first glance. It also loses a fair bit of its utility if the squad also has Cybork Bodies -- it goes from 200% more saves to 50% more saves. For this reason I very rarely take a squad that has both 'Eavy Armor and Cybork Bodies.

Cybork Bodies:Mhh, cybork. Invulnerable save -- do I need to say more? Actually, I probably should. 'Eavy Armor in theory offers better protection, but that better protection is mostly against small arms, which aren't a huge concern for Nobz. The things that should concern Nobz are things like dedicated anti-infantry fire such as Heavy Bolters/Flamers, S8+ weapons that will Instant Kill them, and large blast templates. All of with will generally ignore 'Eavy Armor but not Cybork, which is why this is my upgrade of choice for defense. Itís also worth noting that if you have Cybork, you almost certainly have Feel No Pain. And Cybork + Feel No Pain is equal to or better then a 3+ save against anything other than a S8+ weapon. 3+ save Orks. Mhhh...

Mixed:

Painboy:At first glance this looks like it should go under defensive, but there is an offensive benefit as well, so I stuck it here to draw attention to that. But first, the big reason to take it, Feel No Pain! Basically a 4+ save that stacks with other saves. This is huge! And great! And awesome!

The one real downside is a relatively high absolute cost, but the larger your squad is the more this cost is spread out and so the better value it becomes. In a full sized squad you are only paying about a third of the cost per model compared to a min sized squad, which is very, very much worth it. I would generally say take this in any squad 5 models or up, below that I would think carefully though it still sometimes has a place.

Now the offensive aspect, a poisoned weapon! This lets your Painboy keep up with your klaws/big choppas when hunting high toughness models but it really isn't quite the same value as those weapons offer. However, an often overlooked aspect of poison is that if the attack's strength is equal or higher then the defender's toughness (so 4 regularly, 5 on the charge for a Painboy) it allows you to reroll to wound instead. Which means your Painboy actually has the best to wound rate of any model against T4(charging)/T3(not charging) models, beating even the Power Klaw (although the klaw will pull ahead after saves against models with good armor). The Painboy himself pulls off an extremely impressive wound rate of 97% against T3 models on the charge.

Waaagh! Banner:Nobz! Now 33% more killy!! This is kinda the inverse of the Painboy in that it is mostly an offensive upgrade, but has a defensive aspect. Offensively, the most common WS in the game is 4 (at least in my experience). This upgrade will let you hit on a 3+, a 33% increase in hits, against such models in close combat, a very nice benefit indeed. The defensive aspect shouldnít be ignored either, as there are a fair number of WS 5 things out there as well, and causing them to hit you on a 4+ instead of a 3+. Like a Painboy, the larger the squad is, the better the value on a Waaagh Banner. I usually use the same cutoff -- squads of 5 or more.

Bikes

I felt the infamous Nob Bikers really deserved their own subsection rather then being lumped in with another upgrade. Adding bikes to Nobz bring a huge number of benefits. Built in 'Eavy Armor - nifty. Built in cover save - VERY nice. Extra Toughness - nifty. 6" extra movement every turn and the ability to turbo-boost - VERY nice. Ability to always move full speed through terrain (though at the cost of risking wounds) - nifty. Dakkaguns, the best darn gun in our entire codex (in my opinion) - VERY nice. Not being able to run -- I know this sounds a bit odd as a benefit, but it means you have a perfectly valid excuse to be firing your Dakkaguns regularly, which I consider a good thing.

However, all that bikey goodness comes at a significant cost -- namely COST. The simple addition of a bike more then doubles the base cost of a Nob, making them more expensive the a terminator. By the time you have properly geared out your bikers, you are probably going to be sitting at an average of upwards of 60 points per model, or 3 times the base cost of a Nob, and 10 times that of an Ork Boy. Well built Nob Bikers are a nasty enough unit that they can actually be worth this high cost, but its something that you need to stay aware of and balance carefully.

Transports

By popular demand! First, general: Transports get your Nobz to where they can kill stuff faster. This is ALWAYS a good thing. I very rarely/almost never take a Nob squad that isn't either on bikes or in a transport.Trukks:Ahh, the lovely ork trukk. Fast. Really fast. And since you want your Nobz in close combat quickly, this is a good thing. But... trukks explode like popcorn. Anytime I go into a game with Trukks, I enter the game with the assumption that every single Trukk will die, most of them before the end of turn 2. And that assumption is very rarely proven wrong. Because of that, I like my Trukks dirt cheap, rarely taking more then one upgrade and often none.

However, solid arguments can and have been made for Red Paint Jobs, Grot Riggers, Armor Plates, Boarding Planks, and Reinforced Rams. And I could add in an argument for Stikkbomb Chucka's as well (see the point on stikkbomb's above). Heck, even the Wreckin' Ball has the 'cool, my Trukk has a close combat-esq' attack thing going for it. But all that stuff is a much larger debate beyond the scope of this piece. So I'll finish this up with this: Trukks work better in mass.

A single Trukk in a list with no other vehicles WILL die turn one -- don't fool yourself. With other, non-Trukk vehicles or in a list with a lot of Trukks though, it has a much better chance of surviving long enough to do it's job (and if the Nobz's Trukk gets blown up, they can always kick some regular Boyz out of their Trukk and steal it!)BattlewagonsAhh, the noble Ork Tank/Transport. Look, Battlewagons deserve a Tactica of their own. They have loads of options and all sorts of things you can do with them. All that is way beyond this post. So *beep* it all, I'm not doing a careful weighing or analysis of the options, I'm just gonna tell ya what to do! So there!

If your Nobz are going to be the only or one of only a handful of units in transports, take a Battlewagon (and sometimes take one even if everyone is in transports - they are fun!) because they aren't Trukks and so don't explode like popcorn. You want to get there fast -- take Red Paint. You don't want to double your chances of being immobilized -- take a Big Shoota or a Kannon. You are going to be racing towards foes, may as well squish something in the process -- take a Deffrolla. But don't take an 'Ard Case, you want to be able to pile out and assault.

Conclusion

Alright, I guess that's all I have to say on the topic of Ded 'Ard Nobz today. Questions, comments, and feedback always welcome and I hope this helps you aspiring new Warbosses out there.

Greetings to all and welcome. As many of you might have seen me around I have been playing 40k for almost 10 years now. My ork army was my first attempt at a horde type army. As such it requires a lot of painting due to the large amount of figures that one would field.

I am by no means a professional painter and have never taken a formal painting class. This article is to help those who are starting out or maybe offer some tips to those who paint to a higher level. After trying several different combinations I will say this is one of the faster painting methods I have used and produces models at table top / above table top quality. The idea is to find the amount of models you can paint confortably in one sitting in a kind of redundant/ step manor. This not only speeds things up later on as you will see but allows some dry time before handling the models. A win win.

This article will cover colors I used to achieve the end result. To accompany the article will be several pictures in a step by step basis. Also listed will be the approximate time it took me to paint the models in each step. Keep in mind that this was the time it took me to paint the models and everyone's result will vary. My comfort level I have found to be at 6-7 models for this type of painting. However for this article I decided to take it up a notch to show just how effective assembly line painting can be when painting a squad of models. So for a good round average I painted 10 models.

Tools Needed:

Regular Brush: a basic paint brush you will use for the majority of your painting.

Dry Brush: a brush with stiff bristles that works well for dry brushing techniques

Wash Brush: a thicker (natural hair) brush that holds washes well

Spotter Brush: a very fine point brush used for making the smallest of dots

Magnifying Lamp: though not needed this works great for painting details and it allows you to have your hands free, it's a good long term investment.

Flat Black Spray Paint: I go cheap here, Walmart's paint section has a 97 cent special Flat Black Spray Paint. I use it to base all my models and never had a problem yet.

Paints: I tend to use Games Workshop line of paints. I like their colors and their base coats and washes have grown on me. Plus they are the most common for most 40k painters that I speak with.

Let's start with the models. Here are my 10 models they have been primed using a cheap flat black spray paint the night before. You want to make sure the primer is fully dried before working over it.

My choice of 10 models primed black

Step 1: Green Skin Base Coating: I chose to start with knarloc green as it covers the majority of the ork model. I focused on the tops of the muscle and kinda worked in. If it got too deep then I would just leave it black. I chose to leave my shirts black but for those doing different colors working with shootas might be hard if their guns are in place. With my black shirts I didn't worry so much. I also left the mouth / teeth black. For the fingers I simply dry brushed them with the knarloc green. You don't need to get in between the fingers to get a good effect.

The approximate time it took to paint this section was 2 hours.All models green:

skin tone (how they should look at this point)

example of fingers

face (with teeth / mouth left black)

You are trying for a solid uniform look to the skin tone.

Step 2: Weapons and armor The next color I wanted to do was the metal. For this step I targeted weapons, metal accessories I did leave black rectangles on the armor places because I play a goff army and wanted to be able to go back and put the checkered board patterns on them. For this step I tried to cover most of the metal pieces only leaving bullet ejection ports and vents black.

Base Coat: Boltgun Metal

Approximate time for this step was 2.5 hours.

Weapons / accessories and armor

slugga boy

the squad so far:

Step 3: Belts and accessoriesI wanted to target the belts, wristbands, storage pouches, and backpack a darker brown color. For this step I tried to fully coat the items I wanted to paint. Again not getting too close to where it met skin as the black in between worked decent for a shadow.

Base Coat: Beastial Brown

Approximate time was 1.5 hours

Step 4: Wraps, fur and patches

Base Coating: Kommando Khaki

This works really good for wraps, patches, misc accessories anything that looks like it is wrapped up. Just as a pre-warning. Because Kommando Khaki is so thin and light it will more than likely take two coats to achieve a solid uniform look.

The next step I took was trying to make the black shirts look more black. I know this seems silly in words but here a little goes a long way. If you are doing different colors here might be a good time to work on them or possibly before anything as they are so inward that painting them afterwards might make it hard to not accidently get paint on an area you don't want.

Drybrushing: Codex Grey

Again this I used over any cloth that I wanted to leave black. The idea is to take very little paint and then keep brushing it against a paper towel til this is very little paint in it and it only makes very light marks. You then take the brush and using a bit of force you work over all the black areas of cloth. This will it and leave marks on the raised areas. Making a bit of an contrast or shadow. It seems a little too much at first but don't worry we will fix it later I promise

Approximate time was 20 minutes This is really fast if done properly the main thing to remember is that you should have next to no paint marks on the model. Very light.

This ork has an almost black uniform look at how little codex grey is on it

back side of same model

check out the pants and very very little on the shirt of this model

Step 6: Skin Wash Now we get to the next step which is really great at adding some easy shading to your models. When washing I have found it best to use a natural hair brush that can hold a lot of wash. I don't water down my washes or paints and use them straight from the container.

Wash: Thraka Green

When using washing be careful to only target the area you are working with. They make different effects with different colors and if you get green on kommando khaki or even on the bolt gun metal it will make a less than desireable effect. Load up your brush and focus on all the green skin areas. A good heavy coat of wash is great to achieve the maximum effect. Let it pool in the recesses of the muscles or any other recesses in the model. This leaves a great effect later on. It takes a bit of practice to get right but it is pretty easy to experiment with.

Approximate time 25 minutes

This is really fast. All you are doing is loading up your brush and hitting all the skin, shouldn't take more than a few minutes per model.

face and arms after wash

You can really see the wash effect as it starts to dry

Step 7: Rusted / worn metal effectOur next wash is really easy though I have a tendency to try and make it pool up in certain areas to give more a worn / rusted metal effect.

Wash: Devlan Mud

For this step you want to target all your metal areas. Sound wierd? maybe a bit but it has a lot better effect then using a watered down black or even black ink. It dulls down the metallic flake in the bolt gun metal and if you pool it right makes for a very nice effect. Again I apply this straight from the container and put it on thick in one coat.

check out the chain and the armor

You can really see it on this model which has a lot of armor painted (all coated over with devlan mud)

Step 8: Shadow washSomehow I missed some pics for this next step it is my third wash.

Wash: Badab Black

Approximate time 15 minutes. For this step I applyed a heavy wash over all black cloth, beastial brown accessories, and all kommando khaki accessories. This will really bring out some depth to your model. It adds a shadow to most wraps and does a great job seperating layers. This effect can be achieved very quickly and easily.

IMPORTANT FACT*** Make sure to let the models dry after using washes, they have a tendency to take longer time to dry and handling them too soon could negatively effect your models. I usually let them dry over night after applying washes.

Step 9: Basing Teeth / SkullsNext step we are going to start to pick out some details. The main focus here is the orks Teeth as teeth have a lot to do with ork culture I make sure to take my time here. I also use this on the bullet connectors for exposed bullets. Take your time on this step and use a very fine brush. I definately recommend using a magnifying lamp for this step and the next few as it will make your life a lot easier as you can see all my pics are taken from under it.

Approximate time 1 hour

Teeth

more teeth

Step 10: Bullets and earringsNext we will focus on earrings and exposed bullets.

Dwarf Bronze was used to make these shine and show up on the model.

Approximate time 25 minutes. Take your time here. I usually only hit the most exposed parts to the bullets or earrings. This way it leaves black in the shadow areas.

This is the example with the bullet connectors painted (so you know what I mean from the step above)

Step 11: Highlighting Teeth / SkullsMy next step is a highlight step in which I use for teeth (and in some cases skulls) About part way up the tooth a little above half way I use Bleached Bone to highlight the teeth. For skulls I simply drybrush it on til it looks right.

Highlight: Bleached Bone

Approximate time: 10 minutes. There isn't much painting involved here. You are basically just adding the details to your graveyard earth you used. Make sure to use a fine brush and some kind of magnafying device.

Check out his tooth necklace and his teeth

another pic of teeth highlighted

Step 12: Beady little eyesFor one of my last detail steps I like to give my orks beady red eyes. This color also works really well on icons (usually on helmets, guns, or armor they have a gyff or icon of some kind) For the eyes I use a very fine pointer and only get the paint on the very very tip of it. This is done very carefullly.

Spotter: Blood Red

Eyes

Step 13: Goff checkered board (optional)

Now here your ork should look pretty complete, but for my orks I wanted them to have the Goff checkered board look. So all those areas I purposely left black I went back and started the checkered pattern.

I first started out drawing lines and filling them in like a checkered board with fortress grey. This doesn't quite look right at first and you will more than likely need to go back and square off the checks.

Checkered board: Fortress grey

Approximate time 15 minutes

Here you can see the checkered board before touching up with black, not to smooth but then again I don't have a very steady hand.

Step 14: Fine tuning the checkered board (optional)After observing the picture above you can see how uneven the checkered board was for me. I used chaos black in the last step to go back and touch up the squares. Best way I found to do was to make sure to touch up the corners to make them look squared away. Touch up: Chaos Black

Approximate time 10 minutes.

Total time for completion was approximately 10 hours maybe a bit less. On the next post you will get to see a few detailed pictures of each model. I haven't decided on a basing color / theme for my army yet so as you can see my models just have the standard black bases (for now).

I hope you enjoyed my article and as always comments and questions are appreciated.

One of the best advantages of Codex: Orks is the availability of cheap, but effective vehicles. What they lack in armor, they make up for in speed. The Warbuggy can fulfill a number of rolls, from infantry killing to popping tanks.

The Basic of Buggies:Buggies are designed for two basic roles: anti-infantry and anti-tank. However, each is flexible enough to perform several soft battlefield roles as well: blocking assaults, creating cover saves, and contesting objectives.

Why Take One and When You Can Take Three:Ork vehicles are cheap for a reason. A single buggy will quickly be destroyed, giving your opponent an easy kill point. Two buggies suffer the penalties of vehicle squadrons (immobilized = wrecked), while not having enough survivability or effectiveness to be worth the sacrifice. Buggies should be taken in groups of three to increase their life expectancy and their ability to complete their primary mission.

To Trakk or not to Trakk:When fifth edition came out, Armor Plates and Grot Riggers became irrelevant for vehicle squadrons. However, trakks give you the ability to re-roll dangerous terrain test. This option should be considered in Cities of Death missions and boards with an abundance of terrain. With getting to the enemy as quickly as possible in mind, the Skorcha comes in handy with its trakk option!

Which Options Are Worth It and Which Are Not:With the coming of fifth edition Warhammer 40K, Red Paint became the only viable option for buggy squadrons. The additional move it provides can sometimes can be useful, but is often just wasted points. Armor Plates and Grot Riggers are irrelevant because of the vehicle squadron rules.

Skorcha, Big Shoota, or Rokkit:Arming your buggies will depend on what battlefield role you intend for the squadron. The Big Shoota and Skorcha options are designed for anti-infantry roles. The Rokkit excels at crippling and destroying vehicles.

The Big Shoota: Dakka From Afar:Big Shoota buggies are the cheapest option. They excel at delivering heavy infantry killing power at range. Being twin-linked with a high rate of fire, you can be assured of hitting frequently. The strength is adequate to wound anything less than monstrous creatures, but the AP is less than spectacular. The range is excellent, and combined with the fast vehicle rule, really nothing on the board is safe from this buggy. It is recommended for lightly armored opponents such as Guardians, Guardsmen, and Gaunts, as well as targeting vehicles with weak rear armor.

The Skorcha: Burn Baby Burn:The Skorcha gets "free" trakks for the points you pay, so you can go bouncing through terrain without fear of getting stuck. This allows you to get to those pesky mortar squads that seem to hide in heavy terrain. Since the Skorcha is a heavy flamer it will kill almost everything if touches, often ignoring their armor save and of course like all flamers ignoring their cover save.

While it may not have the range to kill from round one, it normally goes unnoticed as it speeds around the board, harassing enemy units, and killing off the odd heavy support team. It is a great weapon for killing off most everything Tyranid. Skeetergod argues, ďIf I know I am going against nids, I make sure that I take Skorchas. Of course, the Rokkit buggy is good at killing the monstrous creatures, but the Skorcha is good at killing off and thinning down those large broods of gaunts. It is also fantastic for killing Genestealers.Ē

Against marines Skorchas are good for scout hunting and getting sniper teams out of terrain since a flamer can fire up one level.

Against Imperial Guard, the Skorcha really shines. Nothing is safe from its burning promethium. With the speed you can get in close to the heavy weapon teams and cook them off the board.

Finally, the Skorcha excels at 'off the board escort' duties. When a unit has broken the Skorcha drives nearby, staying close enough so that the enemy unit cannot rally, spitting flames every turn until it is off the board. Being fast, it can keep up with the enemy unit no matter how far it runs.

Rokkit Buggies:

The primary function of Rokkit buggies is destroying vehicles and monstrous creatures. Being twin linked, they have a reasonable chance of hitting their target; being fast, they have an excellent chance of hitting side or even rear armor.

Rokkit buggies can be used in two ways. The first is to ride along with a mechanized Waaagh, firing off rokkits of opportunity at vehicles, popping transports so that the boyz can rip the troops inside apart in close combat. In a more conventional greenskin horde, the buggies can ride ahead and destroy transports, slowing those mechanized armies down.

Rokkits are best used on AV 12 or lower. Anything higher wastes firepower, although rokkits are able to damage any AV. The primary role of Rokkit buggies should be to force enemy infantry to disembark from their transports. Additionally, Dreadnoughts are easy prey, as the buggies can stay out of reach while delivering a continual barrage of rokkit fire. Additionally, rokkits should be employed against monstrous creatures, or very tough MEQ infantry, denying Feel No Pain and armor saves. The high strength and low AP are sufficient to wound most.

Finally, mass rokkit fire can make a mess of skimmers, particularly if you can target the rear armor.

Dirty Tricks: Expert Buggy Use:Buggies can be used in a number of functions beyond their ability to kill the enemy. With their incredible speed, they can often fulfill a number of battlefield roles:

ē Buggies can offer cover saves to the troops and vehicles behind them. While troops are easy to cover, players seeking to give cover to trucks should use the old truck model (the new one, though splendid, is too large).

Below, a group of Grey Hunters wants to fire on the boyz. The buggies give the boyz some cover, and they will come through only losing a couple:

ē Orks are often outmatched by our enemies. Often, it is necessary to ensure that we charge our enemies, rather than be charged. Any buggy, regardless of its armament, can block an opponent's advance. Moving into position at cruising speed, it is a difficult target to hit in melťe. As a squadron, buggies can stop the advance of the enemy, forcing them to run around, or fruitlessly swing away at them in an assault.

Below, the Grey Hunters, frustrated by the ineffectiveness of their Bolters, try to move into position to assault. The buggies prevent this, giving the Orks the choice to assault in the next round:

ē Buggies can be used in some sneaky manoeuvres. They can easily split supporting units from each other, effectively preventing a second unit from supporting the first. Another favorite tactic is locking a Dreadnought in place by surrounding it with buggies. Even if it manages to destroy a buggy or two in the assault or shooting phase, it has missed its chance to move in the movement phase. Positioning your buggies correctly means that a Dreadnought has no choice but to fire at them.

Below, the Grey Hunters finally engage the Orks, but find themselves a bit outnumbered. The Thunderwolf Calvary moves to support them. However, the buggies intercede and force the Thunderwolf unit to assault them instead. Needing sixes to hit, they do little to no damage against the fast moving buggies:

Below, a second unit of Warbuggies moves to intercept a Dreadnought. With any luck, the rokkits will cause it to explode. However, the buggies have surrounded the walker, and it will not be going anywhere: