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1999 Phase II EJ22 into 1987 GL Wagon (carb)

Also the FI pump input is like 7/16 or 5/8" and the carb pump input is 5/16" or so. I hope I don't have problems between the tank and the pump. Its looking more and more like the FI tank swap is the clean way to do it, but I just want to get it running, first.

Yeah my local yard told me it was $20 for a FI tank so it looks like I might be swapping one in too.

The fix didn't work. The engine/trans still wouldn't close the last 3/4". Then I made an alignment tool. Still didn't work. I have an extra transmission that I need to take apart, anyways, so I'll use the input shaft from that as my alignment tool.

It seems like the input shaft just wont engage with the pilot bearing for the life of it. VERY FRUSTRATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AM I MISSING SOMETHING?

On another note, the fuel pump installed very nicely, and it seems like switching of the return and vent lines works without leaks, using 1/4" fuel line. I used a small tube bender and connected the EJ power steering lines to the EA rack and EA rack extension lines. It feels like the flare nuts bottomed out so I hope it seals. Maybe I should use 2 o-rings? Any thoughts?

I'll be taking a 3 week break on this project as I'll be out of town doing sprite research (like the phenomenon above storm clouds) near the Mexico-USA border. When I get back, it's time to go 4 wheeling... hopefully.

How would you guys hook up a surge tank? I've seen several configurations for our vehicles. Some include one fuel pump and some use two. What do you think? I also saw one hooked up on a conversion that had a bung for the fuel temp sensor that is normally in the fuel tank.

If I were to install one in a Brat, I would put it in the bed. In a Wagon or Sedan, I would try to install it in the spare tire area. Heat soak might be a problem. In a sedan, you could install it in the trunk. A Wagon, not sure how that would work in the wagon area.

Yes, the return from the Surge Tank to the Fuel Tank is at the top to serve as a spill over for the low pressure pump. The return from the Fuel Rails to the Surge Tank is usually a little lower down the side of the tank. I will venture to guess that it helps stabilize the pressure and flow through the Surge Tank, but that is just a guess.

I think I found my error. The heavy gauge white wire is hooked up to the battery via the EJ 80 amp stock fuse (EJ fuse/relay box installed in the 1987). The Yellow wire is hooked up from the EJ fuse/relay box to the alt (as stock in the EJ system. This wire wasn't cut and gets 14v from the batt).

Here's the error:

The Black/White EJ alternator wire is hooked up to the White/Red EA wire. The White/Red wire goes to the fuse on the EA car and is labeled "CHARGE".

I think that "CHARGE" fuse serves the purpose of alternator voltage regulator reference for the EA vehicle, as the Yellow EJ wire on the alt harness serves for the EJ vehicles. So I think I need to find the wire that is hooked up to the charge light for the EA vehicle and connect that up to the EJ Black/White wire, if this is correct.

The diagrams for the EA vehicle don't really depict a clear alternator wiring or how the EA charge light circuit is designed. That is my main problem, or it wouldn't have been an issue. Does this sound right? If I can't find the wire, I might set it up, myself.

It turns out that you need the equivalent resistance of a light bulb between the WHITE/Red wire and the battery. Then the alternator will put out 14v. If it is directly connected without the 100 to 150ish ohms, it doesn't put out anything.

Now I have another problem.

The engine runs great and in closed loop cycle. When you slam a door, it dies. It cuts out almost instantly, but with a little tiny sputter like fuel pump turning off. I tried wiggling all the wires, tapping on the relays and ECU, rocking the car. The only thing that does it is a sharp impact. Same cut happens when I whack the roof with my hand.

All my wires are WELL soldered/shrink tubed and there's about a 1/4 tank of gas. The system will idle stably for a half hour, then slam a door and it dies.

Today it starts and runs for only a brief second. I can hear the injectors clicking after it dies, so I think it's fuel delivery or ignition. I hot-wired the fuel pump to make sure that it is getting fuel. The problem persists.

It turns out that the chassis was not well grounded to the battery. When I put a heavy gauge wire from a grounding point on the chassis to the - terminal on the battery, the engine idles smooth and continuously. When I remove the wire, it dies. Looks like the computer is grounded to the chassis with my wiring. It's so easy to forget little things like that when one takes month long breaks from a project.

Just went on a test drive. That phase II engine makes the GL a ROCKET SHIP.

Yeah they do! I reckon the L series should have come from the factory EJ'd!

My only concern with your conversion is the ECU in the floor. Trust me, if you're out wheeling like I am with the EJ, expect this to happen at least once:

I was VERY glad that I mounted my ECU and immobiliser up under the dash board - it gets tight but in this situation I was still able to drive home, even with a wet air filter... Cleaning up is not fun.

I don't wish for this to happen to anyone - I'm just sharing my concern. ECUs in the floor of an offroader is just asking for trouble in my book!

Other than that, top effort on your conversion, the wiring from what I've seen on here looks very neat and factory like! Got any more pics with more engine bay pics of your wiring efforts?