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stainless screws VS Ridgid 18v impact driver

04-27-2007, 02:08 PM

Stainless screws do not work too well when using the Ridgid 18v impact driver.

I used McFeely's #10x2 1/2" 305 stainless flat head screw..part number
1024-FAS
I pre-drilled a short piece of 2x4 to attach to an old 1980 vintage 2x4.
I used an APEX impact square #2 driver bit part number HHS-0234.
I lubricated the screw threads with LLOYD'S Akempucky
[part number LA-0900]

Then off I went happily "screwing"! And yes I addressed the screw properly.

Well, 2/3 of the screw went into the wood and then snapped!...I tried a second one, and the same thing happened. I also noticed that the square head [Robertson head] was chewed up when I tried to back out a different screw.

I contacted MCFeely's and explained what happened....

Their reply was Stainless 305 screws are softer than hardened screws and can snap if over torqued! Not a tool failure or user error. They indicated it's best not to use an impact driver with stainless 305 screws.

I noted that even before the impact driver went into its impact hammer mode the screw snapped.

I conclude that the Ridgid 18v impact driver has tons of torque..

I have used the driver in many applications successfully, this was the first time I used it with stainless 305 screws. There is no fault of the Driver -or-me!

Comment

I understand what your saying here cactusman, been there, what I found that did work, as long as your not trying to run a hundred screws is, put some soap on the screws. They are softer, so by doing this method will help immensely. I have had them snap with the soap also, but by pre drilling and soap most screws will go right through. Maybe this method will help you and maybe not, its just a thought, and old time trick.

Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

Comment

Thanks for the heads up cactusman. This weekend I'm planning on helping my brother put an addition onto his deck and planned on using my impact driver. I was planning on only bringing my impact driver with me but just in case he has SS screws I'd better bring my drill/driver also.

================================================== ====
~~Don't worry about old age; it doesn't last that long.

Comment

For small, softer screws, I find using the 9.6v (Ridgid "twist" drill) works much better. I have used brass screws in projects and it seems that no matter what, those things will snap on you in a heartbeat!! Depending on the project, I will often resort to the old-fashioned hand screwdriver (OMG...a HAND TOOL!!!).

The impact drivers are great, but I just think in a lot of situations they have too much torque. Would you drive drywall screws with an impact driver? From my old-school learnin', they always used the impact driver when going into concrete or brick. Anything other than that, and they'd go to the regular driver.

I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

I am sad to say this is typical on so many reflectors etc.
People do not read the original posting or understand the information or question. Then they give answers that are not helpful nor provide assistance to the one posting.
We also have self acclaimed comedians that think a snippy reply is cute and funny!

Anyway, Sceeter W Wheels and Garger Thank you for your time in reading the original posting and thinking you have provided an answer to the screws snapping. I know you mean well.

Cactus Man

Comment

Thanks for the heads up on the Mcfeelys Stainless. If I purchase the screws you posted about I will heed your warning. I gather that was what your last post was about. You were giving people a "HEADS UP'" and by not reading throughly they were trying to solve a problem that really doesn't have a solution except to not drive them w/ impact drivers particurly ridgid's..

I am sad to say this is typical on so many reflectors etc.
People do not read the original posting or understand the information or question. Then they give answers that are not helpful nor provide assistance to the one posting.
We also have self acclaimed comedians that think a snippy reply is cute and funny!

Anyway, Sceeter W Wheels and Garger Thank you for your time in reading the original posting and thinking you have provided an answer to the screws snapping. I know you mean well.

Cactus Man

Hmmm, I got a little something out of both replies. On the pre-drilling you stated that you predrilled only the new lumber and that to me sounds like you were running into the old lumber with no pre-drilled hole. If you pre-drilled both, with the old lumber drilled just under the size of the threads your screw would not break.

The second reply, while maybe ignoring the fact that you lubed your screws also contained personal experience with the same situation and may help someone else reading this post if they are in a situation where they have to drive these screws in this fashion and don't have the particular lube you named.

One thing is certain, neither one of these replies was intended to talk down to you or irritate you. There may be things that you know that others who will read this thread do not--even though you started it. I am sure I have found information on this site that may be redundant to the topic, or even thread, but helped me. I like the way the conversations blossom and I find it interesting to read.

The only posts I think warrant discouraging are those that are not attempting to be helpful or share information, even if it is just information on the topic and not to the original poster. But that's me. I want ALL input, you never know when you will get a juicy nugget of information.

BTW, this is my opinion on the topic, not an judgment on any person or people.

Comment

ok, woodenstickers..my point exactly..I did not infer what SceeterWwheels and Garger implied in their replies!

As you read their replies you picked up different information...
so, if I ruffled feathers I apologize.

My intention of the original post was to share information regarding my experience with MCFeely's stainless screws, not ask for advice.
I have used the same stainless screws with my Ridgid 18v drill/driver and have not had any break. I wanted to use the impact driver as I had a very tight area to work in.

I have the Ridgid 14.4 impact driver. While I generally use my 14.4 V Drill Driver, I had to replace a railing on my deck last fall. I decided that the Impact Driver would be just the tool as I had to extract four 1/4-inch bolts, which held the 2 x 6 rail to the 4 x 4 posts and then another 16 phillips head screws which attached the ballusters to the rail. I figured putting a magnetic adapter in the Impact Driver would be okay as it would allow for a quick change between the hex and phillips bits. Bad idea, as the Impact Driver tore the magnetic bit apart on the first try, twisting the hex shaft right out of it's collar.

After that I decided my Impact Driver was better left for heavier duty jobs and hardware. I still used it to remove and redrive the hex head bolts, but I left the screws to the Drill/Driver.

Stainless screws do not work too well when using the Ridgid 18v impact driver.

I used McFeely's #10x2 1/2" 305 stainless flat head screw..

...Well, 2/3 of the screw went into the wood and then snapped!...

I contacted MCFeely's and explained what happened....

Their reply was Stainless 305 screws are softer than hardened screws and can snap if over torqued!.....
Cactus Man

Good info. I think a lot of people mistakingly assume stainless steel is harder and stronger than carbon steel. This is often not the case. One of the biggest difficulties, working with stainless is that it work hardens. This makes it difficult to form. The 305 stainless used to make screws is purposely designed to allow formability. It sacrifices strength for this. Some of the coatings they have developed for carbon screws are pretty incredible. One might be better off, using coated carbon, vs. stainless...especially if you end up having to overdrill the whole and coat each stainless fastener with lubricant.

This same thing is true with knife blades. I've talked to many people that think because it says "stainless" on a knife blade they are getting a great quality blade. Don't count on it. Most of the cheap knifes with "stainless" blades use cheap stainless that is easy to form...which makes it a terrible material for a knife blade. I knife needs to be made from a steel that can be edge hardened so the sharpness will last.

I have the Ridgid 14.4 impact driver. While I generally use my 14.4 V Drill Driver, I had to replace a railing on my deck last fall. I decided that the Impact Driver would be just the tool as I had to extract four 1/4-inch bolts, which held the 2 x 6 rail to the 4 x 4 posts and then another 16 phillips head screws which attached the ballusters to the rail. I figured putting a magnetic adapter in the Impact Driver would be okay as it would allow for a quick change between the hex and phillips bits. Bad idea, as the Impact Driver tore the magnetic bit apart on the first try, twisting the hex shaft right out of it's collar.

After that I decided my Impact Driver was better left for heavier duty jobs and hardware. I still used it to remove and redrive the hex head bolts, but I left the screws to the Drill/Driver.

CWS

It is important to use impact rated screwdriver bits when using an impact wrench. I find that it is easier to break a stuck screw loose, with less damage to the head, with an impact. However, you need to use a good bit that won't rollover and press hard so that it doesn't slip.

Comment

I can not comment on the ridgid tool .I can comment on the makita impact driver .I will tell all that you have to use the tool with light trigger action when driving small screws.I put up 30 sheets of drywall and found the impact driver to work realy well driving the screws to the correct depth with the same speed as my buddy with his drywall screw gun.
I too have had some screws snap in 2+4 lumber also when using full speed ,now I trigger off and on