I have one of these (http://www.eterna-lighting.co.uk/product/vecocirmw/) lights. I want to stop it being a sensor light and to just turn on via a switch now. I've tried this but the light comes on, and then goes into standby and then comes on again as it senses movement. I spoke to eterna and they said I can bypass the sensor on this model, but I just want to ratify my thinking.

It has power to the light, but also power within the microwave unit itself. So it has two lives and two neutrals. I'm thinking I can simply join the lives together and the neutrals together in a block and that would work. Am I right?

Your question cannot be answered without seeing the other side of the luminaire to confirm - chances are it can't be done, it's probably all in that one gizmo, but what's on the other side of the fitting?

This is because there must be some electronics providing a constant low voltage current to the LED's, you cannot connect the mains directly to the lamp (X) circuit, the driver is most likely built in, but might not be..

And this is without getting to the question of whether the three wires marked LEN are in fact, switched. At the moment they must be live all the time (otherwise, how would the sensor work?) so turn the electricity off at the lighting trip in the Distribution Board before you touch anything. Remove the fitting from the ceiling and post pictures of the back, please.

Eterna could be wrong saying it can be bypassed - you could, easily, on a old sensor light but it ll depends on where the driver is located. I suppose we could alway fit another driver, you can get very small ones these days.

Further to the previous reply, it would seem, from the Instruction Manual downloaded from OP's link, that the two square buttons to the left, in the bottom image, are "220v/240v Output" - shown in the bottom centre of Page 2 - this would indicate to me that there is a separate driver circuit somewhere, after that point.

If this is the case, then (leccy off first) moving the two wires on the right to the two terminals on the left (press the square button in then withdraw each wire in turn) will put 240 volts directly to the (X) lamp circuit. Keep red to red and blue to blue.

The two left hand wires withdrawn do not need to be reconnected as the microwave sensor will have been isolated. HOWEVER we still need to confirm the whereabouts of the Constant Current Driver, not shown in the manufacturer's images, just to be sure.

Take a picture/note of what you are doing / have done in case you want to reinstate the sensor later.

Hi I asked about the constant current driver and they confirmed this unit doesn’t have or need one. The wires go to a power source and then onto the lamp. I’ve now done as I suggested and it works fine. Thanks for the reply, we’ll worth an extra call to them and I’m glad it’s all working now. Cheers.

Further to the previous reply, it would seem, from the Instruction Manual downloaded from OP's link, that the two square buttons to the left, in the bottom image, are "220v/240v Output" - shown in the bottom centre of Page 2 - this would indicate to me that there is a separate driver circuit somewhere, after that point.

Just additional info now that the job is done.

Of course, as you said, there has to be a driver after the sensor or the LEDs would not work.

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