When it comes to wine from Argentina, malbec is the undisputed king. But vintners in the South American country grow a wide variety of grapes, from the commonplace -- chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon -- to more specialized varietals, such as torrontes and bonarda.

One winery in Mendoza, Argentina's main wine-producing region, Familia Zuccardi, even grows grapes such as aglianico, tannat and caladoc (a cross between malbec and Grenache). The winery also has found great success with its tempranillo.

Two varieties that deserve a look are torrontes and bonarda. While they're not unique to Argentina, that's the country they're most often connected with.

The typical white grape of Argentina, torrontes has a floral note a little reminiscent of muscatel. That's no coincidence: DNA testing has found torrontes to be a cross between muscatel of Alexandria and criolla chica. At its best, torrontes is fresh and floral, with lively white fruit. But it can also get a little overbearing, taking on a scent that reminds me of heavily perfumed dusting powder or potpourri. Winemakers also have to handle it carefully to avoid a bitter finish in the wine.

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The part of Argentina most suited to torrontes is the northern, high-altitude province of Salta, although only a small percentage of the plantings are there. (Labels may say Salta, Cafayate or Calchaqui.) In "Vino Argentino" (Chronicle Books, 240 pp., $27.50), author Laura Catena of Catena Zapata Winery relates what she was told when she asked locals why Salta torrontes is so aromatic: "Everything is aromatic here, the fruits, the vegetables, the spices, the flowers and, of course, the wines."

There are also some decent versions from Mendoza, although a number of Mendoza wineries get their torrontes grapes from Salta. Torrontes hasn't received the sort of rousing welcome in the United States that malbec has -- it is, perhaps, a bit more of an acquired taste -- but sales are growing.

One of the best versions I've tasted is the 2010 Gauchezco Torrontes ($14). It's from Salta, and the wine is very fresh, floral and lively, but it also has a nice delicacy. Colome, a Salta winery owned by Donald Hess of the Hess Collection in Napa, also does an excellent job with torrontes. The 2010 Colome Torrontes ($15) is bright and floral, with white stone fruit and litchi flavors.

Most torrontes is reasonably priced, but one particularly good bargain is the 2010 Trumpeter Torrontes ($10), which is fragrant and floral, but shows some restraint.

Bonarda

Bonarda is the second most widely planted red grape in Argentina, behind only malbec. It's believed to be the same grape as corbeau from the Savoie region of France, which, in turn, is the same grape as California's charbono. (Charbono used to be fairly common in California, but fewer than 100 acres remain.)

In Argentina, bonarda generally makes a wine that's quite fruity, sometimes with a peppery note, and not very tannic. For years, bonarda was used mostly for bulk wines, because the vines are very vigorous and can produce a large crop. Jose Zuccardi, director of Familia Zuccardi, says the key to producing a good bonarda is controlling those yields in the vineyard. His 2009 Familia Zuccardi Serie A Bonarda ($15) offers ripe berry flavors, notes of tar and spice, good concentration and fine tannins. Also good are the 2008 Las Perdices Bonarda Reserva ($20), which is ripe and a little peppery, with soft berry fruit, and the more structured 2009 La Posta Bonarda ($17), with its juicy berry and slight herbal note.

Other wineries that make high-quality bonarda include Nieto Senetiner and Alma Negra.

The trouble cab

It would seem that cabernet sauvignon would do well in Argentina, but it has proved to be a tough nut to crack. The cheaper bottles don't offer nearly the drinking pleasure of similarly priced malbec. Even some more expensive wines don't have much character.

The current project at Catena Zapata Winery, one of Argentina's top producers, is to figure out how to produce a unique, high-quality cab. "We understand very well malbec and also chardonnay," says the winery's founder, Nicolas Catena, Laura Catena's father. "But we do not understand very well cabernet sauvignon."

That said, the 2008 Catena cabernet sauvignon ($20) is a very nice wine, with juicy black cherry fruit, a savory component of anise and black olive, and medium weight and tannins.

Other good Argentine cabs include the 2009 Argento cabernet sauvignon Reserva ($16), with its ripe black cherry, notes of anise and dill and firm tannins; and the more expensive 2006 Terrazas de los Andes "Afincado" cabernet sauvignon ($45), a refined wine with spicy black cherry, a hint of anise and fine tannins.

In the past few years, a larger selection of torrontes has started showing up on store shelves. Here are some other recommended bottles.From the Salta region, the 2009 Familia Zuccardi Serie A Torrontes ($15) offers pretty floral notes and white stone fruit and isn't too overbearing. The 2010 Michel Torino "Cuma" Torrontes ($13) is ripe and floral, with bright white nectarine and a slightly bitter finish that food should tame. The 2010 Argento Torrontes ($13) is very floral, with a firm core of brisk acidity.From Mendoza, the 2010 Las Perdices Torrontes ($14) is fresh and floral, with white stone fruit. And the 2010 Nieto Senetiner Torrontes Reserva ($11) is pretty and a little floral, with candied lime flavors.Susana Balbo makes a delicious dessert wine from the grape. The 2009 Susana Balbo Late Harvest Torrontes ($30 for a half-bottle), made from Mendoza grapes, is very sweet, with honeyed white peach flavors.