THE TOP END - Part 4 (Kakadu)

September 2016

DAY 5 - Kakadu National Park​We were now onto our fifth day in the famous Top End, one of Australia's most acclaimed wildlife destinations. Today we rose at 5.45am and left our accomodation at Cooinda Lodge (do not recommend) to head to Nourlangie Rock, or Burrunnggui to the traditional owners of the land. Nourlangie Rock is part of an outlying sandstone formation of the Arnhem Land Escarpment. It is a place renowned for a handful of bird species which are endemic to only this part of the world. These were our targets for this morning.

This area is a famous tourist spot, due to the amazing Aboriginal rock art which depicts a variety of Namandi spirits (both genders), native wildlife (including Thylcaines - known to have been extinct in the area for at least 3,500 years) and most interesting, European times and introduced species such as Buffalo. The rock art faces a variety of threats to its survival including, ironically enough, tourists, destruction via natural causes, water damage and wasp nesting.

On the way to Nourlangie we spotted a Dingo running through the scrub on the side of the road which is a big thrill and fun way to start the morning. Unlike our experience from the previous afternoon we didn't see a single Partridge Pigeon on the drive in - there were however big numbers of the ever-present Bar-shouldered Dove and Peaceful Dove. Pulling into the carpark, I was thrilled that we were the frsit to arrive - right on dawn and time to get birding! The main targets here were Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon, White-lined Honyeater, Sandstone Shrikethrush, Northern Rosella and Black-banded Fruit Dove. None of these birds were straight forward and particulars like the fruit dove were renowned for being tricky!

The whole area was already buzzing with life as set off. It was also unfortunately humid as well as sticky and already 25 degrees. As we explored the escarpments we wondered at the truly incredible rock art which definitely stole some of our birding attention. Around the rocky walls we spotted Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Pacific Emerald Dove, Bar-shouldered Dove, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Forest Kingfisher, Varied Lorikeet, Silver-crowned Friarbird, Grey Whistler and what seemed like hundreds of Spangled Drongo. With no signs of targets yet, it became slightly more frustrating with every hot sweaty step we took. Then we took a step around the corner and flushed a very large dark pigeon that shot up the escarpment and disappeared out of sight. This was extremely frustrating as it was most likely a Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon! Bugger! One saving grace was spotted a Wikin's (Short-eared) Rock Wallaby scrambberling up the rocks ahead of us - what a gorgeous little mammal!

On we travelled seeing Great Bowerbird, Black Kite, Paperbark Flycatcher, Weebill, Rufous-banded Honeyeater and a nice healthy flock of Rainbow Bee-eater but still no targets. Reaching the first main lookout area, we clambered up an escarpment on the opposite side of Nourlangie. Here we had an incredible view over the whole area so I scanned the rocks for Sandstone Shrikethrush, when suddenly I heard a honeyeater calling from the trees opposite our position. Raising the bins I was delighted to spot a White-lined Honeyeater! Tick! And very releaving one at that!

White-lined Honeyeater

Nourlangie Rock Art

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo

After celebrating our first new tick for the day and firing off a few photos we decided to head down the road slightly to the Nawurlandja Lookout which was another spot for locating these rock escarpment specialities. The day was really beginning to heat up and the first effort was a climb up to the lookoutitself. There are no steps, nothing to hang on to but only a few arrows directing explorers from the base to the summit of this ancient natural structure. It took us about 30 minutes to climb a mere few hundred metres, but in the scorching sun and thick humidity it was easy to see why. Finally reaching the lookout point, I took rest on a look and stared out at the valley below me. The sight was absolutely incredible. For miles around there were flocks of Little Corella, Australian White Ibis, Magpie Goose, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo and Whistling Kite soaring across the national park. We took stacks of photos when suddenly I heard a sound to my immediate left. To my utmost shock there stood a Sandstone Shrikethrush, as tame and exciting as imaginable. Tick!! It was literally perched less than 2 metres away and had come in to inspect the visitors to its territory. We were thrilled about the new bird and that it had come to us (well kind of!).

Back down on the ground we jumped in the car and decided to head to the Gubara Walk which is supposedly a reliable spot for the Black-banded Fruit Dove. We had only driven for about 10 seconds when a pair of Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon suddenly walked out in front of the car and crossed the road! Tick and what an easy way to get it! They are very funny pigeons, so plump and held low to the ground - they seem to bob/crawl at a great speed.

With the day beginning to heat up we changed our plans and retreated to the accomodation at Cooinda Lodge (cannot reiterate enought not to stay here) for a mid-morning brunch and rest in the cool. Wandering around Cooinda we found a pair of Bush Stone Curlew, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Shining Flycatcher and a trio of Brown Goshawk all perched in the shade. It's simple things like this that show how unbelievably rich with birdlife the whole of Kakadu is. There is simply wildlife everywhere and at every point of the day!

​The early afternoon came and we decided to tackle Gagudju and Mamukala for Buff-sided Robin, Gubara for Black-banded Fruit Dove and then hit up Nourlangie again if Gubara didn't pay off. I had a number of walks and "hotspots" for the robin around Kakadu but after two hours of searching a number of these we decided to throw the towel in and turn our attention back towards the Black-banded Fruit Dove. Other birders had warned me that the robin can be tricky at times, particularly during the middle of the day and that it may simply be easier to get in north nest Western Australia.

Reaching the Gubara, we set off but soon decided that 6km was just too much in 32 degree heat with such a high level of humidity and retreated to the car. Feeling a bit concerned after so much morning success, we gave Nourlangie one more shot. Unfortunately there was a large tour group getting shown the rock art so we decided to go in opposite directions. I had been told that the Fruit Dove tend to favour palm rainforest trees close to water where they just sit quietly in the shade. Scouring every tree we spotted Pacific Emerald Dove, Bar-shouldered Dove, Peaceful Dove and Torresian Imperial Pigeon but we just couldn't quite nab or target. But don't get me wrong, the birding was still fantastic!

Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon

Sandstone Shrikethrush

Nourlangie Rock Escarpments

To finish off the day, Clancye and I booked ourselves on the Yellow Waters boat cruise for the sunset cruise. I had been looking forward to this and had big expectations of the waterfowl, buffalo and crocodiles! Running back to the accomodation, we had a quick change of clothes and boarded the bus which took us to the wharf. It was a tranquil afternoon of blue skies, a gentle breeze and warm late afternoon sunshine. On our boat were about 12 other guests as well as our guide, an employee of Cooinda Lodge (Did I mention to never stay here?). Jumping on board we were hurried out onto the water and were able to marvel at the magnificent surrounding sights. There were waterfowl everywhere, mainly dominated by Wandering Whistling Duck and Magpie Goose. Soon the first Saltwater Crocodile was spotted and we crept up towards the ancient creature as it cruised by along side the boat. Suddenly a little movement caught my eyes. I lifted by binoculars and stared up the adjacent reeds - it was a White-browed Crake!! Tick!! This was a species I had almost given up one, having dipped a number of times this trip already - but there it was poking around in the reeds pratically gleaming in the afternoon sun!

"White-browed Crake" I called out enthusiastically suddenly forgetting that I wasn't on a pelagic but on a boat cruise in middle of Arnhem Land. This was the first sign that things were about to get uncomfortable. The tour leader noticed my find and told the other passengers "yes our young birdwatcher has just spotted one of our more common Kakadu specialities, the Comb-crested Jacana". It was going to be a long trip. I pointed out to the man that the birds to the right were in fact Comb-crested Jacana but the bird I was singling out was a different species altogether. Conceeding, he asked me what its name was before continuing.

"Ah yes, this is a White-headed Crake (wrong) and it is one of rare shorebird migrants (wrong) that spends the winter in the tropics (wrong) before returning to Australia (wrong) and occassionally turning up in Kakadu (wrong)".

Unfortuantely it turned into a rather tedious trip, and personally I was horrified at the complete lack of knowledge by our paid 'guide'. Cooinda certainly has a lot to answer for in my opinion! The tipping point came when he told us that 'Jabiru' was a traditional aboriginal name. For those unfamiliar with this, I quote a passage from EcoGuiding that states "The name Jabiru is not an aboriginal name but is South American meaning “blown out with the wind” and relates to an inflatable neck bladder of the rare South American stork also called a Jabiru. The Australian Jabiru does not have this inflatable neck bladder and is quite different in appearance to its South American cousin."

White-browed Crake

Northern Dwarf Tree Frog

Saltwater Crocodile

​Aside from the appalling skills of our guide, the birding and scenery was second to none. We witnessed numerous Saltwater Crocodiles including a large male eating another slightly smaller crocodile in the seculsion of a little bank. There were enormous flocks of Magpie Goose, Wandering Whistling Duck, Raja Shelduck, Green Pygmy Goose, Australian White Ibis, Straw-necked Ibis, 3 cormorant species, over a dozen White-bellied Sea Eagle, at least 6 Black-necked Stork, Azure Kingfisher, Shining Flycatcher, Arafura Fantail and stacks of birds of prey. It was an unbelievable experience that I couldn't recommend higher to visiting nature lovers (just ignore the guide!).

On the way back, I spotted a tiny little frog on the wharf which was latered identified for me as a Northern Dwarf Tree Frog (Litoria bicolor) which turned out to be our final wildlife reward for the day. I'd succeeded in a further 4 ticks for the list, including some very tricky ones and bogeys (such as the crake which has avoided me for over 3 years!). An early night after another terrible and expensive meal from Cooinda and Clancye and I began to prepare for our final day in Kakadu.