Eats Blog

Max’s Wine Dive means more fried chicken and the return of Paul Pinnell

Southern fried chicken is a specialty at newly opened Max's Wine Dive in the West Village digs where Borders Books & Music used to be.

Today, where bibliophiles once roamed the aisles at Borders Books & Music in the West Village, food-and-wine-lovers sip, eat and get their music groove on at Max’s Wine Dive, the first Dallas outpost of the Houston-based mini-chain (casual, with lots of brick and tall storefront windows).

I got a menu preview at a recent press dinner, but the personal highlight of the evening was reconnecting with longtime Dallas wine expert Paul Pinnell (think Dali Wine Bar and Nana at its most muscular, both defunct). He’s been hiding out in New Orleans and returns as Max’s general manager. He’s excited to be back, he says, spurred by the fact that his Dali was modeled in part on Max’s.

He explained to me how Max’s gets certain of its wines from producers who make exclusive blends for the wine bar and its sib, The Tasting Room in Houston. ‘Gives the place control over the flavor profile, he says, and the ability to keep consumer prices lower. You can also take home bottles retail, if you like a particular selection.

As for the menu, it’s a curious combination of upscale comfort on one side of the menu and chef-drive specialties from Patrick Russell on the other. Max’s likes to brag about its fried chicken and champagne, a combo that didn’t disappoint. Cut in boneless pieces (including one amazing one that was half white, half dark), the bird had a light, crunchy crust with a subtle jalapeno bite and, yes, went swimmingly with Domaine Chandon Etoile sparkling wine.

I also have to mention the chicken-fried brussels sprouts from chef Russell (late of Craft): What a way to get recalcitrant ones to eat this oft-despised veggie. (I think it’s like beets: You’re either for ‘em or agin’ ‘em.) They come with ham vinegar for dunking. Chef’s side of the menu also includes foie gras torchon sliders, Texas quail, pumpkin risotto and a deconstructed dish of pork (applewood-smoked bacon) and beans (white bean puree) with scallops.

Now here’s a cool twist. On the menu, find this note: “Love your food? Compliments (Texas-style) to the kitchen! $15 buy(s) a 6-pack of Lone Star tall boys for the crew.” Nice, don’t you think?