Infusion Lounge Restaurant Review

: Located inside the Hotel Fusion, the basement-level restaurant and nightclub Infusion Lounge is outfitted with futuristic glass columns and glows from top to bottom with color-changing LED lights --- even the menus are backlit. The light show is accompanied by the typical trappings of an Asian motif --- lots of reds, blacks and lacquer. It can feel overzealous and at times evocative of a theme park. In the kitchen is executive chef Evan Turner, who has created a Pan-Asian menu with appetizers befitting the lounge vibe. Grilled edamame are an interesting take on the typically salt-boiled pods. Turner’s crab Rangoon is addictive. Tea-scented coconut ribs, while bland, are tender and well prepared. Entrées, however, fail to wow. Enoki and crimini mushrooms lend Infusion's signature miso salmon an unappealing, slippery texture. Fun desserts, such as the warm double-fudge cookie studded with marshmallow bits, seem out of whack with the rest of the Asian-centric menu. The wine list is dominated by California selections, with a few Spanish and Italian bottles in the mix.

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