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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-21-2013 02:18 PM

FinallySailing

Re: Nincompoop ...

I've now managed to chisel off as much "Bondo" as possible and removed all silicon with "silicon eater". I've made a template for the opening. There are a few places where I have to cut and sand to level the edge slightly. I didn't want to make too much dust today, out of respect of my neighbour in the boat yard who had just cleaned and polished his yacht and was also painting on antifouling. So my plan is now to fill the small holes. I will then cut a couple of panels to size and glass them into the existing opening. I'll probably have to put a couple of layers of fiberglass in between and also build up with cloth/resin in the cut out areas on the top where the hinges used to open into. Once that is all done, I'll fill and smooth the rim around it. I will not reuse the old Lewmar hatch, it is really too big for the opening. It was in part only supported by "Bondo" but would also only fit by making a recess for the hinges and building up where the original water run off in front of the original hatch was. I will get a smaller new hatch sometimes later this year, but as the sailing season is starting, I really only want to get it water tight and safe for the moment.

04-21-2013 05:13 AM

FinallySailing

Re: Nincompoop ...

Ritchard, that's one of the nicest things I've heard for a long time. Thank you !!! Tommays, absolutely beautiful job you've done with your hatch.

I am off to the marina, let's see how much further I'll get today. Will post more as I progress ...

04-14-2013 07:15 PM

Ritchard

Re: Nincompoop ...

Beautiful job, TomMays.

Finallysailing, if you weren't so far away I'd come and do that job for you. No-one deserves to have inherited such crap work.

Damn.

04-14-2013 04:14 PM

tommays

Re: Nincompoop ...

I have the cure BUT it is a BIG job

It cant be goobered up worse than my hatch was as it was a complete mess and included Masonite shims

You don't even have to fix the hatch first

You will need some woodworking skill to make a template with the deck crown

Which will allow it to sit flat and seal

My hatch was BIG and a new one well over 1000 dollars so it was well worth the rebuild and i HATE leaks

04-14-2013 03:01 PM

CalebD

Re: Nincompoop ...

Well, that is progress.
I'd suggest you keep cleaning away the old putty & filler that is there. Expose all the holes and penetrations in the deck as they will need to be epoxy filled.

Sorry, I forget if you intend to re-use the hatch cover that the last owner did such a butcher job with or replace it with the original sized hatch cover that MacGregor installed at the factory? Even though MacGregor recently announced that they are ceasing production I'd bet there is a way to get a hatch cover from them.

Good luck and enjoy spring in the boat yard.

04-14-2013 02:16 PM

FinallySailing

Re: Nincompoop ...

Hello again. The weather has finally turned to sunny 17 degrees and I've managed to get some work done on "Rockhopper". The hatch is fully off now:

I have since managed to scrape off all the existing "Bondo". At most places it came off the original gelcoat with little resistance. At the top, where the deck was "remodelled" to have space for the hinges most of the pink filler has gone as well. You might be able to see the 2 x 1 cm hole in the right top corner of the opening ... worrysome ? This goes straight into the topside. I was going to take another picture since, but of course my mobile ran out of juice at that very moment.

I am now left with a step around most sides of the hatch opening of 4-8 mms. Most of the hatch frame was actually supported by filler ! At some places the holes for the bolts are now exposed along their side ... The hatch frame of the Lewmar hatch and the cutout in the deck certainly do not match This is going to take some effort to sort out !

Still, lots of sunshine, finally, and the best of South East English spring !!! Managed to get some other things done as well in preparation for the new season and met some nice people at the marina. Can't really complain .

BTW I've got some really good "silicone eater" that I stocked up with when a diy chain here changed suppliers. It is non toxic and smells of oranges ! So no problem getting rid of any silicone thats left. Thanks, Richard, for the link on Sailing Anarchy ... I will take all my courage together and visit their site

04-10-2013 10:57 AM

Ritchard

Re: Nincompoop ...

In case any of you have never read the extraordinary "Sliver" thread on SA, you really should, but you'll need two full days - it's now more than 5000 posts.

Here is a link to a post that begins a discussion of mating a hatch to sloping surface on the newly-build Sliver. The same process, or one you closely approximate would work for you. To make it easy for the DIY-er I might hybridize what I have suggested above, and this.

According to the table I have here, silicone is not soluble in Acetone. It is soluble in chlorinated solvents like trichloroethane, and the gasoline based solvents like hexane. That would make carburettor cleaner the ideal remover.

I'd second the thoughts about keeping the hatch. A hatch in the V berth is very nice to have for 1) light 2) fresh air and 3) emergency escape. No reason for it to leak if installed properly - my 30 year old Lewmars don't.

04-09-2013 02:35 PM

CalebD

Re: Nincompoop ...

Nincompoop indeed! Who ever did the initial install left it Gestorben!

Get all of the silicone and Bondo off of everything. You may need to scrub everything in Acetone. Silicone residue will mess up any future attempts to bond anything in this area.

Pity. The Mac 26 S along with the daggerboard model are actually pretty good sailboats.

04-09-2013 02:11 PM

Ritchard

I'm with TQA, keep the hatch. I would add that the better job you do with engineering a mold, the easier the fairing will be, and the better the final results.

Thinking more about it, I might use a piece of premade 1/2" fiberglass sheet as the flat mounting surface for the hatch, cut just big enough to cover the butchered hole left by the previous owner. , Make up a waxed plywood plug mold inserted from inside. Glass in the gap between the new flat surface and the deck, finish and fair w 406-thickened epoxy.

If the gap is small enough, you might be able to do a one-step, or nearly one- step repair by setting the new fibreglass sheet right onto a bed of thickened epoxy. The Plywood mold shaping the inside, masking tape and a deft hand with a soft plastic putty knife shaping the outside. Fair as necessary. Either way, you then remove the mold, cut a new hatch hole and install the hatch.

I was able to shape a lovely curve between right angled surfaces - a large fillet really - this past weekend with peanut butter consistency epoxy and a soft 1-1/4 inch plastic putty knife. It came out perfect with only minimal hand sanding.

It would be a day's work spread over say 5 days, plus paint, the second option could be achieved in one go, or one go and one layer of fairing. Oh, and I guess some kind of interior trim to cover up the PO's creativity.

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