I have received a few PM's asking for some detail on how I built my spark system. While I am certainly no expert and have never done this before, it worked out great and I think anyone can do it. I will attempt to explain the process herein.

Parts list:
2 ea. Combination gas valve for direct spark ignition. Mine are Honeywell VR8204's scrapped by a friend. I don't know all of the details to advise you on other models. If you are using scrapped valves, you will need the brass compression fittings shown in the photo below, as well as 1/4" aluminum pilot tubing. New valves come with LP conversion kit (part #393691), but you will need to buy one (5-6 bucks) if using old valve for NG. The instructions come with the kit and it's very easy to convert.

Below you can see the four 18 gauge wires coming from the ignition module to the valve. The terminals are labeled so it's very easy to wire. The fifth wire is a ground that is wired to the burner. The tubing is inserted through the compression fitting until seated, and then tightened. The tubing is bent and cut to fit the pilot igniter.sensor.

Again you see the same type of compression fitting used on the valve. You will need a to buy these if using used parts. The tubing is installed the same way, but not before changing the small orifice located inside to one appropriate for the gas you are using. New units usually come with both a NG and LP orifice. The ground wire is the one coming from the valve. If you are using the same jet burners, you can attach the units by using a 1/8" NPT plug (thanks Kladue) drilled and threaded with a #6 tap into the pilot boss. Then use an angle bracket to attach pilot assembly. That's how I did it, but I am sure there are other options.

Below you will see the ignition module of which you will need two. The wiring is self explanatory. You simply attach the quick connects the same way as the valve. The red and green wires on the right are going to the panel and subsequently to the controller. The spark wire is on the far right and goes to the igniter/sensor at the burner. There are distance limitations for that wire. I used spark plug wires.

Continued.

__________________
"..can the human soul be glimpsed through a microscope? Maybe, but you'd definitely need one of those very good ones with two eyepieces."

You will need a 24V 40VA transformer as a power supply for the system. Mine is wired to a terminal block which goes to the Love controllers. The "hot" lead goes to the #10 common terminal and the switch leg goes to the #11 NO terminal on the Love.

That's about it. I hope more people will give this setup a shot. If you brew outdoors, it's pretty cool not to worry about wind gusts. There are guys on this forum that can offer more advice on this. I hope I didn't leave anything out. You can see a short video of it working in the Brutus thread.

__________________
"..can the human soul be glimpsed through a microscope? Maybe, but you'd definitely need one of those very good ones with two eyepieces."

My flame on my burner kettle which does not have a valve is perfect with no lazy flame issues. The one for my HLT burner still gives me problems. I cannot seem to get a clean flame even though the burner is at the same height. I tried playing with the Honeywell regulator but am not getting any appreciable difference other than some sputtering. The gas run to the boil kettle is two feet longer than to the HLT, but not sure if that's an issue.

Thanks
KD

__________________
"..can the human soul be glimpsed through a microscope? Maybe, but you'd definitely need one of those very good ones with two eyepieces."

I have received a few PM's asking for some detail on how I built my spark system. While I am certainly no expert and have never done this before, it worked out great and I think anyone can do it. I will attempt to explain the process herein.

Parts list:
2 ea. Combination gas valve for direct spark ignition. Mine are Honeywell VR8204's scrapped by a friend. I don't know all of the details to advise you on other models. If you are using scrapped valves, you will need the brass compression fittings shown in the photo below, as well as 1/4" aluminum pilot tubing. New valves come with LP conversion kit (part #393691), but you will need to buy one (5-6 bucks) if using old valve for NG. The instructions come with the kit and it's very easy to convert.

Below you can see the four 18 gauge wires coming from the ignition module to the valve. The terminals are labeled so it's very easy to wire. The fifth wire is a ground that is wired to the burner. The tubing is inserted through the compression fitting until seated, and then tightened. The tubing is bent and cut to fit the pilot igniter.sensor.

Again you see the same type of compression fitting used on the valve. You will need a to buy these if using used parts. The tubing is installed the same way, but not before changing the small orifice located inside to one appropriate for the gas you are using. New units usually come with both a NG and LP orifice. The ground wire is the one coming from the valve. If you are using the same jet burners, you can attach the units by using a 1/8" NPT plug (thanks Kladue) drilled and threaded with a #6 tap into the pilot boss. Then use an angle bracket to attach pilot assembly. That's how I did it, but I am sure there are other options.

Below you will see the ignition module of which you will need two. The wiring is self explanatory. You simply attach the quick connects the same way as the valve. The red and green wires on the right are going to the panel and subsequently to the controller. The spark wire is on the far right and goes to the igniter/sensor at the burner. There are distance limitations for that wire. I used spark plug wires.

Sweeeeet. I found a three wire barbecue ignition module at walmart the other day. It uses a few AA's, and you just mount the piezoelectric ceramic element to the burner. I bet it's not as strong of a spark as that beast, though.