The old International Arrivals Building at JFK was a 1950s-era dungeon: dark, cramped, and ugly. No wonder a number of airlines, like Air France and Alitalia, decamped to the modern Terminal One, which opened in 1998. With the opening of Terminal 4 (the IAB's replacement) last May, however, the 38 airlines that remained have an impressive new home: a soaring, light-filled silver aerie shaped like a spaceship, filled with stores you don't usually see in airports—H. Stern, DKNY, and Dean & DeLuca, for example—and better-than-average fast food, such as the counter from Sylvia's, the famed soul-food den in Harlem.