the cold control has to be cycled on & off three times in less than six seconds, and left in the on position. try that

Logged

May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

That was the right sequence but the heater will not come on. The heater tested good and is supposed to come on in manual defrost wether the thermostat is open or closed. Also, the evaporator coil is only iced up from the capillary tube down to the first loop. After defrosting and starting refrigerator it only circulates the refrigerant past the first loop, and after a few minutes the frost slowly melts back to the inlet. I don't do sealed system work so I don't have the knowledge except for what I read in manual. Could this be a restriction or refrigerant leak?

how is the heater gonna come on if the terminator is closed or open? What magical thing is gonna make that happen?

Logged

May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

MajorApp, as a technician, I assume you have meter. (Actually, I am assuming you are a technician.)

This is the Wide by Side refrigerator....If you want to see if the defrost heater and terminator are OK, set the meter to read OHMs, unplug the single, simple harness to the heater/terminator loop in the freezer and check continuity thru it. That will tell you:a) The heater or terminator is either good or badb) If heater is good, the ADC board is bad.

If you want to initiate a forced defrost with this kind of adaptive defrost control, you have to take the control panel apart to get down to the board, then short across the 2 test terminals on the board with your screwdriver to start the defrost cycle. You may unplug the unit to stop the cycle and resume cooling.

BTW, the heater does NOT come on whether in manual defrost or otherwise if the terminator is open.

What I do is use my clamp on Amprobe. I force defrost and wait to see if the amp draw rises, If no amp draw then bad heater or terminator. Since you have to dig these 2 out the ice box it has always been recommended to change them both. Any time you replace a bad heater you NEED to replace the defrost thermistat(terminator).

Logged

May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

Hay if I am off base let me know, Hell I can take it. I am trying to learn these newer crappola machines too. If you ain't figured it out yet i am older than dirt and I know pretty much how to fix older stuff. The new stuff you need to be a dang TV man to work on. So I read and absorb everythang you pt out there dude. You are a knowledgable person and I wish i knew half as much as you.

Logged

May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL