“Some sirloin?” a server sporting a kerchief asks. You nod, and with the precision of a plastic surgeon, he carves a rosy ribbon of beef from a glistening slab. “Pork or chicken?” inquires one of his colleagues, similarly attired in puffy black pants. Agree to both proteins, and the fellow slides a plump little sausage and beer-marinated drumstick off twin swords. You have to hand it to this all-you-can-feast Brazilian steakhouse. The chain has the meat-and-service thing down pat. The ad­ven­ture begins with a trip to a salad bar the size of a barge and better dressed than most, with smoked salmon, a wheel of Parmesan and hearts of palm displayed alongside Caesar salad, fresh asparagus and (brilliant!) a do-it-yourself feijoada bar. Return to your table, and you might find it’s been set with side dishes: crisp polenta logs, wet mashed potatoes and sticky-good plantains, all part of the package in this two-story, wine-walled food hall. The round card in front of you keeps the meat-bearing waiters apprised of your appetite. The green side means “bring it on.” The red side signals a pause in the action — no easy task when there are more than a dozen cuts of beef, chicken, pork and lamb offered. Filling up the room: bachelor parties, conventioneers, couples on dates and at least one critic who needs another hole in his belt.

Tom SietsemaTom Sietsema has been The Washington Post's food critic since 2000. He previously worked for the Microsoft Corp., where he launched sidewalk.com; the Seattle Post-Intelligencer; the San Francisco Chronicle; and the Milwaukee Journal. He has also written for Food & Wine. Follow