B4000 1997: Front wheel bearings replaced

Remove LF wheel & 4x4 auto-locking hub

The 4x4 automatic hub just lifts off, without any tools.

LF axle (driver's side) with 4x4 hub removed

Close-up showing order of spacers and c-clip

The C-clip is important, because it's the ONLY thing that holds the LF axle-shaft into place (in-out) within the axle housing.
Notice the order of the 3 washers and the C-clip. Only the innermost washer has 27 teeth, which match the axle-shaft splines.

Removing auto-hub inner "cam" portion

Removing locking key for wheel bearing's lock nut

Locking key is easily removed from its slot by using a magnet, since the flat key floats freely. The hump along its middle back slides into any of the slots inside the inner lock-nut, which is what prevents the lock-nut from turning.

Removing WB lock nut

Some Ford Ranger models have manual hubs, which have different style of locking nuts. This auto hub has a simpler lock nut, which comes off more easily.

Remove all brake caliper parts to remove rotor

Remove the front brake calipers, as shown at http://imgur.com/a/URjHr
Remove the 2 caliper bolts, then set aside the brake caliper (seen hanging by string). Now only the caliper bracket remains.
Oops. My (plastic) sway bar link appears broken, so I'll replace it too.

Remove the outer wheel bearing

Lastly, remove 2 bolts for the brake caliper bracket. Then, the rotor lifts off. You'll be able to see this 1 wheel bearing on the outside, and another matching bearing on the inside of the rotor.

Axle-shaft size matches Dana 35

Dana 35 front axle-shaft has 27 splines and measures 1.16 inches diameter.
Now the rotor is off. Behind it is the backing-plate (ie, dust-shield), which is bolted to the steering knuckle by 3 small bolts (approx. 5mm dia.). So I removed the 3 bolts, and set aside the (thin sheet-metal) backing plate.

Chisel is best way to remove spindle (rusty & seized)

I also wanted to go further, to inspect my axle shafts. So next, I'll remove the spindle.
The (back side of) spindle has a rear collar that protrudes inside the steering knuckle, which makes the spindle difficult to remove. That is, until you realize that it can only move straight away from the knuckle. A sharp chisel, BFH, and PB-Blaster helps to separate the two. Apply chisel all the way around it.

Rear of spindle shows its collar and the spindle bearing

Knuckle shown on left, spindle shown on right.
That (pesky) rusty collar protruding from the spindle's rear side fits tightly INSIDE the knuckle's large hole. This collar made it necessary to use a BFH and chisel to remove the (seized) spindle.
The spindle bearing (shown here) was also worn out. The new ($17) spindle bearing kit was Timken #SBK4 Spindle Bearing and Seal Kit, which also includes those plastic oil-slingers on the axle-shaft.
Front ABS sensors (I don't have any) would be mounted in the extra pair of holes, seen on the left of this steering knuckle face.

Close-up of oil-slinger and seal on LF axle-shaft

Inner wheel bearing is in back of rotor and rides on spindle

Spindle, new inner wheel bearing & seal (rotor holds old ones)

The old bearing & seal are still inside the rotor, and this photo shows a new wheel bearing & seal ready for installation. In addition, there's the other old seal still on the spindle, as seen here.
With a hammer, you can punch out the old wheel bearing race from each side of the rotor. Then use that old race as a circular "punch" to install the 2 new bearing races into the front & back of rotor, to avoid damaging the edges of the new bearing races. Make sure the races are firmly seated. Then pack grease into each new wheel bearing, and insert them into their races. Then lightly hammer the new WB seal into place.
I used Timken #SET37 Wheel Bearing (4 x $34 each) and Timken #4250 Wheel Bearing Seal (2 x $8 each).
The other seal on the spindle is part F3TZ-1S175-BBA = Motorcraft #BRS-86 Spindle Seal (2 x $16 each).

Replaced seized U-joint in LF axle-shaft

The universal joint on my LF axle-shaft was seized due to lack of grease, so the U-joint refused to bend. That destroyed the spindle bearing. To remove the axle-shaft from vehicle, just pull it out by hand (no tools needed), after removing the spindle. In this photo, the left end slips into the differential, and the right end into the driver's side wheel spindle.
It was tricky to remove the rusted U-joint from the yoke, but I did it (in 3 hrs) with PB-Blaster, heat, BFH, and a bench-vice.
New part was Duralast Gold #1-0297DG Universal Joint ($16).

Replaced LF shock absorber (as an aside)

Swapped LF shock while it was easily accessible.

Reinstall LF axle-shaft, apply grease (red) & anti-seize (silver)

The axle-shaft just slips back inside the axle beam, without tools. Its oil-seal and oil-slinger were already mounted on it, in this photo.
Aside: did you notice my new sway bar link?

LF axle-shaft reinserted into steering knuckle

Axle-shaft in place. Next install spindle, then rotor, then caliper.

Reassembled, and working great!

Almost done on Left side. Only need to reinstall the 4x4 auto-hub (see top photo) and then, lastly, the LF wheel (5 lug nuts).
Next is the passenger side. Same as the above. Only the RF axle-shaft differs from LF, but it was working OK.
Notice that the radius arm bushing is worn, but was replaced in a separate job (see http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc ).