Ok, now you have a sample of one button of the remote. You should see two different tracks: you’ll have to consider just the one which looks like a “square wave”.

Indeed, on my audio card (VIA AC’97) sampling on one channel results in a sequence “triangles”, while on the other channel I get a sequence of “rectangles”. You’ll have to ZOOM a lot into the waveform, both vertically and horizontally, as the signal is very short (few milliseconds), and probably quite low.

The meaning of squares is “digital”: if the signal is high, it means a 38 KHz carrier is present; if the signal is low, no carrier is transmitted. Remote controls use different protocols to tramsmt signals. Look at this page for details (but you don’t need to know details to complete your remote transceiver).

Hi,mr.Jumpjak…h r u…I m a projectl lover recently saw ur this amaizing ir clone device…its working man…I m very exciting now what ever I see ir device I try…recently ir-heli 3channel is underway if I found any problem I’ll contact u….thanks again I tried on settlit rx,vcr.

Hi,jumping jack,,,,regarding ir signal cloning,,,I got another successs as I wrote before that current project is under way…rc heli 3 channel,I successfully startup the heli through Audacity and all ir prosedures but I found new things….I’ll discusss you in the next post…by then
Good Buye….Take care

i think i got the recording down.
i am not sure how to add pictures to this fourm but you can email me and i will reply with a few pics or maby if you can i can send you download links to the raw files and maby you can do it for me?

I’m having trouble doing this, I built the receiver and have tried getting the commands, but all I get is static, no square waves or anything from left or right, i’ve tried mono and stereo with the settings posted here, but I have no clue what’s messing up

There are so many things which can be gone wrong…
Can you post/upload/send pictures of the receiver you built?
Are you using a proper LED? (It must be infrared, not “standard” LED)
Is remote control close enough to the receiver? (no more than 10 cm/ 4 inches)
Are wires properly connected? (try touching them with your fingers while recording: this should be in “something” being recorded, if wires ARE connected to soundcard.
Is recording from microphone enabled? (double click on speacker icon in traybar to open sound control-panel and enable microphone)

Yes but unfourtantly i don’t think i’m doing it right. If i had a .wav file that works for sure then i could do a digital camera test to see if i’m recording and editing wrong or building the emitter wrong.

File you sent me lasts more than a minute against some milliseconds it should last. Maybe my raw2lirc and lirc2ledrem programs got confused for some reasons by your sampled wav file.
Please send me your original sample.

You can invert the led to get a proper signal, or you have to silence the 19000 Hz tone when the signal is UP rather than down.

To be sure if the LED is properly connected, look at the signal level when you are NOT pressing any button: that is the 0 level; as soon as you press the button, you must see the signal RAISING to “1” level; if instead it’s going down, you need to invert your LED.

I was wondering if you might be able to help me out with something. I’m looking to directly connect the IR LED leads on the transmitter, to the circuit board that has the IR receiver. I want to do this so that instead of communicating using infrared light, I would have a wire connected directly from my computer’s speaker port to my toy car- sending signals straight to it.

Here are some pictures of what I have:

In picture 1, I have the opened up IR transmitter with the IR LED still connected.

In picture 2, I have the IR Receiver (sensor), which has 3 pins, and which I’m not sure what each is for.

Then in picture 3, I have the IR Receiver (sensor) above the circuit board of where the connections are supposed to join (though I clipped them off).

Please let me know how I could get this to work. My end goal then is to play the IR audio files directly from my computer, which would run via a wire straight to my toy car, and which could then control it.

Thank you so much in advance!!! I appreciate any help that you could provide me with.

I’m sorry but I don’t thin it is possible: your receiver has 3 leads rather than two: this means it’s not just an IR receiving diode, it also includes some circuitry which decodes recevied IR singnals into something the RC car circuitry can understand; in other words, no “waveforms” comes out from the 3 leads, but rather some digital signals, totally different from waveform you transmitted to it.

Hi,thanks for posting the article.
I am able to record the signal, but the signal appears sinusoidal on one channel and a series of spikes on the other.Please let me know which of the two signals I’ve to use.
Thanks in advance.

hi , i’ve built the receiver , connected it, started recording. Then pointed the remote control and got some sort of signal.
After Zooooming in , i found only triangular waves that looks like this.. i’ve tried another remote and still the same results.http://www.4shared.com/photo/H8aAgYxu/Capture.html

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Cable has 3 wires, red, white, yellow. I assumed red is right, yellow is left and white is ground. I connected + on red wire, and – on white wire. I tried using yellow instead of red and it doesn’t produce any signals.

I even put new batteries in my remote controller and distance from controller and my IR receiver is less than 1 cm.

I think you are using the wrong wires! The signal is there… but it’s so weak that I think it’s just magnetic induction for the OTHER wire. Try all combinations of the 3 wires: A+B, B+C, A+C.
Additionally, to record you need just ONE led, not two.
You can also try looking for “discrete power on command” for your TV set on http://www.remotecentral.com

Thanks again for helping me. I really appreciate it.
I took a remote from a brand new TV (LG), fresh batteries inside. Here’s what I got:http://i.imgur.com/lnsQxJx.jpg
This is like the 7th signal burst.
I even changed cable, I took an old headset instead of that extension 3.5mm cable I was using.
I can’t seem to capture on my smartphone camera a violet ligth from my emitter. I see it very bright coming from my TV remote, but not a single flash of infrared light from my emitter.
I connected it like this:http://i.imgur.com/Q3hPywb.jpg
Where red wires coming from lego brick are -, yellow ones +.
Is it possible that there is something wrong with LEDs? They can capture the signal, but not emit?

It would be also interesting to check if modern smartphones and PCs are capable of playing a raw 38KHz wave and thus controlling devices using one single led.
I didn’t test tansmission, but my PC can sample at frequency high enough to see the 38 kHz carrier.

I just tested emitter with one single led and it’s working on my PC. I haven’t tried it on smartphone.
On a side note, playing signal in Audacity works, VLC and Windows Media Player don’t work, Windows8 app “Music” is working, and Chrome play wav perfectly, so now you can control your TV through a website (HTML5 audio player with wav as source).