Description

King Conqueror ascends the beautiful crack running right up the middle of the rock. The problem is a lot more overhanging than it looks and uses the crack a lot less than you might expect. The crux is a little inobvious but a lot of fun once you figure it out. It is one of the best problems Flagstaff has to offer.

Last summer I slipped off the sloperish top out with my right leg up and missed the crash pad compressing my left leg directly on the sizable buried boulder at the landing. The result of this fall was 4 broken bones and 4 months recovery time.

Just make sure you have a crash pad over the boulder and a really good spotter.

This is rather highball, and the landing isn't the best. Rather than bringing pads, I just go with a friend and set up a TR. Go behind the route and you can march up an easy slab, or more of a staircase, and set up a TR that you can back up with cams and nuts. I know people get crap for top-roping, but come on...it's a safe way to have some fun on an otherwise dangerous highball.

Historical. I remember working on this when I lived in Boulder. I made several attempts, and psyched myself off. I knew I could climb it, but I couldn't wrap my head around the height. I really hurt my feet falling off it several times ... didn't have pads in the early '80s, around '82. Finally, I was there one day, and Hidetaka Suzuki came up and climbed it almost effortlessly.... I climbed it right after he got on top, and I think he was very confused by my happiness ... but we both got a huge laugh from my excitement. ;-) The climb itself is now much less important than that memory of sitting on top with Suzuki and meeting him for the first time.