Post everything about Initial D Arcade Stage 6 AA and 7 AAX here. If you want to talk about ver.1 and ver.2, please post them in the ver.1 - 2 section. For anything about ver.3, please post them in the version 3 section. For anything about ver.4, please post them in the version 4 section. For anything about ver.5, please post them in the version 5 section. Participating in flame wars will be severely punished. NO plagiarism in any case. If you are posting information (i.e. - shift points) that did not originate from this forums, by all means, give the author / source proper credit. Violator will be given a verbal warning on first offence and an actual warning thereafter.

No vids on color, but you can also change the default color of the car via xxxxx_car_color_info.So if you want a pink AE86 Trueno, cut and paste the line with PINK to any of the first 3 lines of color like this:

Eventhough you change the specs in the .txt file and still feel the difference. in the video he did explain that as long as you're a guest profile, the game slows down your car when turning.

personal experience the game slows down your car eventhough in gold drift and you cant seem to get past a certain time record because of that.

EDIT : Scratch that. after a closer look yes it changes nothing eventhough you have modded it. Though I have seen several people being able to tune their cars and get up to PLATINUM time attacks. but I have no idea how.

I just got this set up yesterday, and I'm so glad this is possible on PC now!Thanks for the info on it!

Also.... to anyone else using a G27...do you also have issues mapping shift up & down to the paddles behind the wheel? I can't get them to work.

I mapped shift down to the left paddle, and shift up to the right paddle. It just alternates between shift up and down really quickly when I hit one of the paddles.

I had to map shift up and down to the red buttons on the steering wheel instead.

why don't you use your shifter?

I mapped my shift up to gear 4 and shift down to gear 3. Then I put rubber bands on the shifter to make sure the shifter goes back to neutral after shifting...it's an old school trick from Extreme Stage days

I was planning on doing that, if there wasn't an easy fix for shifting on the flappy-paddles. I'll try that tonight after I get back home from work.

I also have a Driving Force GT wheel with the sequential shifter, and it has the same problem. Toggles between the up and down shift quickly when you go to shift, and you will be stuck in gear.

EDIT: Also, in each <maker>_car_info.txt file (such as NISSAN_car_info.txt, etc), change the "2" near the end of each line to a "6" for each car, and it will unlock fullspec for that car. We've been discussing it in the Teknogods discord.

Also, in each <maker>_car_info.txt file (such as NISSAN_car_info.txt, etc), change the "2" near the end of each line to a "6" for each car, and it will unlock fullspec for that car. We've been discussing it in the Teknogods discord.

I noticed the difference after driving with the "fullspec".

But I'm still not convinced it's true fullspec, not until we can figure out how to mod the files to get the racing engine on the Trueno

...or even there's some guy on twitter who mod the 86 Levin to have misfiring system lol

^Yeah, it seems like that's only 1 part of what you have to do. A guy on twitter with the username @ncqp36 got fullspec to work. He says you have to change the 封印カーフラグ as I described, but also the 車種特性フラグ in the parameter info files. He's not giving out details on what to change them to though... :/

I just copied all the Sadamine course data in COURSE_DATA.ini, and pasted it over the Myogi data further up in the file.Then, in the few lines where it says "[ Sadamine_Day_Dry ], "[ Sadamine ]", etc... I just changed those to "[ Myogi_Day_Dry ]", "[ Myogi ]", etc. Should be only 5 lines you have to change.

Now when you load Myogi, it will load Sadamine instead.

There's probably multiple ways to go about it, but they will all be in COURSE_DATA.ini.Changing the course load order near the top of the file might work too (and might be easier).

^I was there in the channel when you had success (I'm zeroyon04)Thanks for your hard work!! I eagerly await a video tutorial on how you accomplished it (as you mentioned), once you have the free time to do one

Hi, anyone of you play it in the midnight? I only have time playing in the midnight and there is a stupid Shop closing restriction. Only able to play 1 round and the system will say shop is closing and end the session~ Anyway to overcome this?

I just copied all the Sadamine course data in COURSE_DATA.ini, and pasted it over the Myogi data further up in the file.Then, in the few lines where it says "[ Sadamine_Day_Dry ], "[ Sadamine ]", etc... I just changed those to "[ Myogi_Day_Dry ]", "[ Myogi ]", etc. Should be only 5 lines you have to change.

Now when you load Myogi, it will load Sadamine instead.

There's probably multiple ways to go about it, but they will all be in COURSE_DATA.ini.Changing the course load order near the top of the file might work too (and might be easier).

Thank you both, I'll try that out. Finally there's a way to get rid of Lake Akina

QUOTE (freedom1104 @ 3 hours, 56 minutes ago)

Hi, anyone of you play it in the midnight? I only have time playing in the midnight and there is a stupid Shop closing restriction. Only able to play 1 round and the system will say shop is closing and end the session~ Anyway to overcome this?

I did, and got the same restriction. I suspect it's retrieving the time from your PC. If that's the case, you might try setting your PC time to morning or something when you play during midnight.

On a side note, I'm feeling a HUGE deadzone when I play this game on my steering wheel. Turning Sto0z on didn't help much, if at all. Anyone else facing the same issue?

Are you using the latest version? I'm also using a wheel to play and its okay. Update to version 0.71 of the TeknoParrot loader.

You're right. I was on 0.70, upgraded to 0.71 and the car corresponds nicely to my wheel. Now I just have to figure out how to disable the goddamn FFB on my G29. Some genius at Logitech decided it was a good idea have FFB be fully controlled by the game instead of the driver/software.

Also, for those wondering, if you're annoyed by the game ending at the end of each round due to the time restriction, you can go into test mode and change it so that it will keep going.

Thank you both, I'll try that out. Finally there's a way to get rid of Lake Akina I did, and got the same restriction. I suspect it's retrieving the time from your PC. If that's the case, you might try setting your PC time to morning or something when you play during midnight.

On a side note, I'm feeling a HUGE deadzone when I play this game on my steering wheel. Turning Sto0z on didn't help much, if at all. Anyone else facing the same issue?

I was on 0.71 and i used 270 degree for my g27. thats the best at the moment. Remember to turn off center spring force as it will heat up your FFB motor is not good for long hours~

I am still digging file on how to disable the speedcut during cornering~ changing manufacturer file value doesnt help much but i saw someone on youtube already done it.

I was on 0.71 and i used 270 degree for my g27. thats the best at the moment. Remember to turn off center spring force as it will heat up your FFB motor is not good for long hours~

I am still digging file on how to disable the speedcut during cornering~ changing manufacturer file value doesnt help much but i saw someone on youtube already done it.

I'm using a G29. For some reason, not only is my self-centering setting not working (I had it set to 0), my steering's degree of rotation also went full retard (set to 540, but still turns all the way to 900). Freaking logitech I swear to god.

Did you mean changing your cars to full spec? If so, navigate to data\CAR\info_csv and look for files named <manufacturer>_car_info.txt. Open up these files, change the last numerical value on each line to 6 (they're usually set to 2) and you're good. I was able to get a few platinums after doing this, even though I'm new to D6.

I'm using a G29. For some reason, not only is my self-centering setting not working (I had it set to 0), my steering's degree of rotation also went full retard (set to 540, but still turns all the way to 900). Freaking logitech I swear to god.

Did you mean changing your cars to full spec? If so, navigate to data\CAR\info_csv and look for files named <manufacturer>_car_info.txt. Open up these files, change the last numerical value on each line to 6 (they're usually set to 2) and you're good. I was able to get a few platinums after doing this, even though I'm new to D6.

no wonder. I just put 4 as show on some youtuber. Maybe i will crank it up to 6 later.

There another youtuber messed with the tuning info txt. I tried it and straightway the speedcut comes in even though i already done the manufacturer txt to 4 ( without editing the tuning txt the car speedcut was removed)

Just now i tried messed with the parameter txt and got a 13k rpm meter for my fd3s. Damn LOL

one problem i encounter just now is, i tried to modified exterior of ap1 to js racing which crashed the whole thing. I wondered whats the problem.

Oh ya. For the logitech thingy,

On global device setting

Try disable all the FFB parameter ( all down to 0)and tick center spring and put it at 0%

Then tick the specific steering angle and lock it at 270.

untick report combined pedal

untick allow game to change setting.

Do not create game profile first and try this ( delete it if you have a profile)

Mine was like that thou.

Anytime can default it one so yeah i dont have a concern on changing it XD