All too often when it comes to low-end white wines, "inexpensive" corresponds all too closely with "boring." But this pair, one from Spain and one from France, makes a lovely exception to the usual rule. Rueda, an appellation I hadn't seen before, is very near the increasingly popular Ribera del Duero; the white wines of the region are usually made from Verdejo and perhaps Palomino grapes. Coteaux du Languedoc is best known for its robust reds, which I find consistently pleasing; the white's not as commonplace, but this one deserves attention.

FOOD MATCH: Both wines went reasonably well with a potato frittata and fresh asparagus, though the Languedoc was the better match; its grassy flavors enhanced the acidity while its snappy acidity made a fresh, cleansing combination with the eggs.