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There’s little interest in Northern Ireland when it comes to Michelin. It’s now been three print-runs of the book since there was a restaurant from these shores with a star next to its name. It’s probably a fair reflection of Belfast and the North as a whole when you see nil points on the board. It’s also an indication of dining trends here that the Michelin Bib Gourmand category saw two new entries here. Gaining a Bib means a restaurant serves good cuisine at a reasonable price and that is where Belfast dining is at.

For a long time, your options for Italian food in London fell along two main lines. Firstly there was your friendly local high-street Italian, called something like Mamma Mia or Don Luigi’s where you could get a plate of pasta penne or lasagne, a thin crust pizza or even a commodity steak if you were (un)lucky, and eat it by the light of a candle s