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February 09, 2009

ZAP Zinfandel Festival 2009: 7 easy picks

Buongiorno -- the ZAP event in Fort Mason, San Francisco was exceptional this year: over 275 wineries spread out over two pavilions, and a very happy, slightly soused crowd numbering in the thousands. If you think of Zin as a one-note, berry-forward, monodimensional wine, you missed a major educational opportunity this past weekend. The range of Zins hit the extremes, ranging from Central Coast jam in a bottle to Amador County and Dry Creek Valley Zins featuring subtle fruit, some flinty attitudes, and long-distance tannins that could make certain Napa Cabs eat their Rutherford dust. There really is a Zin to match every Californian character, and that's saying something.

Many thanks to all of the producers who brought us such wildly imaginative interpretations of this classic Californian wine, and bravo to those who enthusiastically explained what makes their Zin exceptional. Choosing a small selection from the multitude of Zins wasn't easy, but a few really stood out for me.

For starters: Truett-Hurst's 2006 Red Rooster Zin from Dry Creek Valley. This spicy, crisp Zin is the pride of a brave new biodynamic winery, featuring light strawberry and raspberry notes, a hint of white pepper, and long, feathery tannins to tickle the palate. This is an obvious winner with strong vegetarian dishes or juicy Muscovy duck breast seared in a cast-iron skillet.

Stryker Vineyards 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Old Vine Zinfandel is a robust (15.2% alcohol) sweetheart of a Zin with vanilla and caramel ramping up to a pumpkin pie-spice finish. There were only 198 cases produced, and still it's only $26 a bottle - a great value.

Montevina Terra d'Oro 2006 Zinfandel from Amador County is a newly-released, well-balanced Zin with molasses, plum and caramel notes that could hold its own against a chipotle-based dish or mu shu pork with plum sauce.

Volante Vineyards' 2006 Bay Point of View Zin from McCoy Vineyards in Sonoma County was decisive, bold, an exclamation point on your meal. Chuck McCoy's vineyards rise from the fog above the Bay to yield a smoky, peppery wine where berries are almost an afterthought. A long finish suits strong meat dishes (hello, venison) or those blue cheeses that make the faint-of-nose recoil.

Klinker Brick 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel from Lodi is a more traditional Zin, ollalieberry- and plum-forward yet still meticulously balanced with a long, tapering finish. When you use strong pancetta to flavor your legumes, let this bottle round out the dish for you.

Fanucchi Vineyards 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel is high in alcohol but still nuanced, with cherry undertones and moderate tannins. This one makes a killer gift for a Zin snob: you can only get it through the winery or its website.

EOS Estate Winery Zinfandel Port from Paso Robles is a rich, moderately sweet Port that begs to be paired with chocolates: think plums first, mocha next, and cinnamon on the finish. A promising candidate for our next NorCal chocolate and wines pairing event ...

Comments

I originally discovered your blog because you do Farmers Market Reports sometimes. I do something similar on my site SippitySup once a week. But the more I read you, the more I particularly admire your posts covering events like this one. Very informative and fun to read. Makes me wish I were in No. Cal sometimes. But for the time being I will stick to So. Cal and read your blog. Best of both worlds!