DIY Concrete Countertops Over Laminate Surfaces

Hellooo DIY Concrete Countertops! Where have you been?…

My lifelong relationship with laminate countertops is finally over. Gracing the kitchen in which I grew up, laminate seemed to me the workhorse of countertops—most homes seemed to have them. For better or for worse, many rentals in my adult life continued my kitchen kinship with laminate. But from afar I envied elegant marble, beautiful soapstone, natural butcher block, metals like stainless steel and copper, and most of all, modern and easy quartz.

So of course, it was no surprise that when I bought my home, the countertops were laminate. I tried to embrace them. But the coffee, red wine and Campari stains took a lot of scrubbing to get out. And I kept on having to glue back down the strips along the sides of the counter and the top of the backsplash. The time had come for a change.

Earlier this year I resolved to upgrade the kitchen–essentially with little or no budget. Some paint on the cabinets did wonders to lighten the space, so the countertops were next on the list. I wanted something durable, attractive, easy, inexpensive, maintenance-free, and stain-proof. My needs were great, and my budget small. I figured concrete counters would fit those constraints.

From what I’ve read, a concrete skim-coat would transform my laminate without having to remove or rebuild the counters. It’s applied straight on top of the laminate in troweled-on layers. And it is inexpensive. Perfect! Easy peasy DIY concrete countertops over my laminate counters. I have about 25 sq. ft. of surface area, so I figured it wasn’t too large for me to take on. I was up for the challenge.

The product I used is Henry brand Feather Finish concrete Underlayment Patch and Skimcoat. I got mine from Home Depot in a 7lb. box for around $17, but you can also get it now through Amazon Prime under the Ardex brand name (10lbs is around $33). The 7lb. box covers about 24sq. ft. to 1/8″, which I gambled would be just about enough.

The entire process (in concept) is simple, summarized below.

DIY Concrete Countertops

Step 1: Prep. Clean and rough up your laminate to create a surface to which concrete can bond.

Step 2: Application. Skim on the concrete (I applied four layers).

Step 3: Seal (covered in the next post).

Step 4: Cure (and apply silicone at sink if needed).

I finally had a window to start the project. It was still warm enough so that we could grill most of our meals, and we had a weekend out of town approaching during which the sealer could cure.

Tools:

Bucket for mixing. I was able to get by with a small one-gallon tub.

Trowels. I ended up using a plastic putty knife, but also experimented with a drywall taping knife.

Orbital sander and sandpaper in a range of grits.

Sponge

Concrete

Painters Tape

Vinyl gloves, safety glasses, mask

At first I used the drill and paddle for mixing, but as I went along it was easier to mix by hand.

Step 1: Prep

First, clean your surfaces. Get everything out of the way, clear everything off, take down anything on the wall right over the counter. It’s time to rough it up and prep the surface. I started by using 40 grit pads on an orbital sander but it didn’t quite have the effect I was looking for. It just seemed to smooth the surface.

So I took the pad off the sander and started using it with my own elbow grease.

This worked much better. You can see the scratches in the surface. I have to admit it was a little satisfying—cathartic almost—to scratch up that laminate.

Next, I removed all the loose strips that came off easily (one of my big gripes with the laminate), to ensure they wouldn’t be peeling off with the concrete on top of them. I gave the glue-laden surface underneath a quick sand with the orbital sander.

Here is the counter in the midst of prep work.

Finally, I taped around the whole area with painters tape. I don’t have an image of the painters tape, but you can see it in the photos of the application process.

Step 2: Application

Mix your concrete. Follow the directions. Mine required two parts mix to one part water. I mixed a lot the first time and it started drying on me pretty quickly. The temps were in the mid-70s, but it’s very arid here. I started to mix smaller batches (one-half to one cup concrete mix) after that first one to keep it wet enough to apply easily.

Now you’re ready to start spreading it on. I tried a few different tools for application, but ultimately chose the plastic one you see here. My first coat was quite thin, I wanted to be sure I had flat, level finished surface to I kept the layers thin. You can still see the laminate through the first layer.

Be sure to get the sides, too. You can see the tape in these pics as well, I found I only needed it along the top and against the stove, I didn’t apply it along the bottom where the drawers were. If I did happen to get a glob on them, I could sponge it off very easily and quickly.

Let the first layer dry. In my semi-desert area, that meant only a half hour to fully dry. Lightly sand in between the layers. I mostly focused on the uneven areas. Then wipe off the surface with a dry rag to prep for your second layer.

Next, I got right to applying the second coat. (I must have forgotten the side—see, I needed the reminder!)

The second layer left a few thin areas and a third layer seemed to cover well. I decided to sand it smooth for the sealer. First I started with an 80 grit, then 120 grit, then 220. Besides making a dusty mess in the house, I probably took off almost an entire layer doing this. PLUS, when I read the instructions for the sealer, it warned to not sand the surface with a grit finer than 200. Lesson learned. So I decided to rebuild it with a fourth coat. This was a painful decision ONLY because I had to order another box of concrete and I had to wait a few days to finish the application. In the meantime, we were doing our best not to destroy the surface with food stains.

Another advantage of a fourth layer was that I could focus on a few thin spots on the edges, and to beef up and smooth out some of the corners. I used my fingers to literally sculpt a layer of the mix onto the edges and corners.

Finally, it’s time to clean up everything before the sealer. I sanded some of the globs that formed under the sides and cleaned up around the sink.

Now the DIY concrete countertops will dry overnight and they will be ready for the sealer! More on the sealer in the next post (completion photos posted here as well).

Most of all, I love the industrial look the DIY Concrete Countertops add to the kitchen and especially the variation and imperfections in the surface (of course!). In fact, the areas where the concrete is smooth and even are the least interesting parts of the counter.

In hindsight, I wish I hadn’t sanded those areas so much. Think about the aesthetic you would like for your surface–smooth and even, or a little imperfect? You know what gets my vote!

This is exactly what I want. When I was a kid, my dad made my mom concrete counter tops in the back yard in a form and it took 4 men to carry them in the house. They were gorgeous with abalone shells and dollar sea shells and other under the sea creatures in the concrete. He pitched the bottom of the form, laid in the shells at the bottom and that became the top of the counter. So when he turned it over and laid it on top of the cabinets, it had a pitch, so water could easily be swept into the under counter sink. I think that was it’s best feature. My dad loved to build things. He installed all the electrical switches in the house at mid thigh height, because he said, “That’s where your hand is”. “And your mother wants to see art on the wall, not light switches.” From the ground up, he built her a beautiful home all from California redwood that he milled himself.

Now I am going to create my own concrete counter top, thanks to your DIY project. And I am going to buy a new sink.

Wow, I’ve always loved the look of cement counter tops but didn’t want to replace the whole counter top. I didn’t know you could do it over the top of others counter-tops. I can’t wait to see the finished product. Thanks for sharing.

Leigh, I was just asking myself the same question the other day. For the most part they look exactly the same as the day I finished them. The area next to the sink gets the most abuse–lots of standing water (sometimes overnight) and banging of food prep, pots and pans and such. And it has held up well. I did find, however, that a hot cast iron pan taken off the flame and set on the countertop will damage it. Maybe because the concrete layer is so thin? Anyhow, hot items are still OK, just not really hot items. Not sure where we draw the distinction though. Let me know if you end up doing your counters!

Hi Chantel, if you’re asking about the countertop after it has the concrete applied, I used an orbital sander. I found that you CAN oversand it, and it’s easy to sand off the layer that was just applied! I didn’t want it super smooth either, if you do, maybe start with a finer grain sandpaper? ie, if you start with 60, then 100 then 220, you will sand off the whole layer. For super smooth, maybe start with 100 or higher. So you will probably find yourself playing around a bit to get the surface you like. The best part is that if you sand off a layer, you can just reapply–you haven’t ruined anything. Oh, and if you were asking about sanding the laminate, do it by hand with a 40 grit to really rough it up. Hope that helps! Michelle

These look awesome! After all this time, how are they holding up? I’m anxious to get this project started! The previous owners painted over the laminate countertops with wall paint (I’m assuming)…should I try and sand through to the laminate or just rough it up to concrete over? Also, have you had any cracks or chips come off of the corners? I read up on someone saying they had a lot of issues but they also had a lot of factors that I think brought them to the failure of their project (started with wood, mixed grout with the concrete, etc.)

Hi Chylene, that’s a good question about the paint. If there is a good bond between the paint and the laminate, then I would just rough up the paint. If it’s peeling, then get it off. But wait a second, paint on your countertops?? Anyway, I haven’t had any cracks or chips on the corners. It’s holding up really well!

I’m not sure if the feather finish will stick to wood. Usually wood is used as forms because concrete doesn’t stick to it. You might consider putting backer board over the wood and then use portland cement with lime. Regular concrete mix has a lot of rocks, stones and aggregate mixed in with it making it hard to use as a skim coat. I would research the wood and type of concrete before you proceed.

Hi Kelly, you can! I also just used a concrete glaze that gives a beautiful tone. We used it on some pavers and I’m overdue for the post, but they’re super easy to work with and give some nice depth and variety over a pigment. http://www.buddyrhodes.com/glazes-1/.

What about a vertical rounded backsplash? As in, the backsplash and the countertop is one continuous piece of laminent. (I hate it!) looking into the concrete tops but want to make sure it will suit the vertical laminent too!

Thanks Ivette:) To answer your question, Yes! You will want to use a skim coat cement product from either Ardex or Henrys. The one I used is available at Home Depot. You can look for Henrys Feather Finish skim coat. It will bond to laminate. And even wood. For a sealer, use one that’s food grade safe. I wrote about my sealer in this post: http://www.lovelyimperfection.com/the-best-sealer-for-concrete-countertops/
Have fun!

Hi there! Beautiful kitchen! Looks great! Maybe someone who’s done this can help me:
I’m in the process of feather finishing my laminate counters as well-though I have rounded edges on my counters. I was wondering how you handle the lip where the counter curls under and meets the plywood underneath? Like if you were sitting on the ground and looking up at the underside of the counter-that space under the lip that faces down, does it have to be covered completely to the base of the cabinet?… I’m worried that it could chip off from underneath or around the spots I couldn’t do and left laminate showing on the inner sides where the stove fits too snugly also. Does clear coat an sealer take care of that or should I do a really thin layer there and just pray the stove fits? I feel like all the parts that show on first glance are fine but I worry about those pesky unseen areas.
Thank you for your help!

Glad you took the plunge Ashley and are covering your laminate! Regarding your stove, I had a similar very tight fit on the stove and I didn’t put concrete in there. But, it IS a weak spot for water intrusion, since we are cooking on that side and always wiping it down. I’d say if you can put concrete on one side and not both, choose the side with the most use. Otherwise get the sealer down the side a little bit and that would likely help. For the rounded corners, you could leave it or go all the way. I didn’t go under and don’t have any issues with chipping. Maybe it’s the sealer I used (the sealer post is linked above) but I’ve been happy with the adhesion. While the feather finish will stick to wood, there will likely form a crack between the laminate and the wood as it ages, since the wood may expand and contract at different rates than the laminate. Hope this helps! I’m sure it’s going to look fantastic! Michelle

I’m lolling to do this in our downstairs bath, my question is that I plan to extend the length of the counter top a bit and am curious as to what you suggest I use? Can I simply use wood, or do you suggest a backer board of some kind? I’m planning to extend it about a foot. Thanks!

I’m sure you can rough it up enough. In fact, I saw someone use it in a sink, and remember it started degrading the concrete at the drain–I think they were planning on redoing it with a better focus on sealing that area. Feather finish concrete is not super durable and will dent and scratch easily, creating a weakness where water can penetrate into the concrete, so if you do use it in a sink, be extra careful.

The countertops you did look like they are stained or have a very cool pattern! Did you do something special to get this and they also seem darker did you put a stain in them? I love the look at would like to replicate yours:)

Thanks Sandy! The only pattern is from the application of the concrete–I wanted it a bit natural so purposely left trowel marks etc in them. The sealer darkened the concrete a little bit. That’s it–just the concrete and the sealer (there’s a link to that post as well;).

Hi Michelle, we have these crazy custom made pottery countertops in our bathroom and I’m wondering if I can do concrete over them? I wish I could add a picture to this post to show you but I can’t figure out how. Do you know if I could do concrete over the pottery?

That’s a tough one, Erin. I think I would probably just try it with my hands (with some latex gloves on) to get as close as possible to the curvature of the sink. I would practice on something else curved to see if it comes out OK. Maybe a bowl? Apply the concrete with your hands and smooth it out with a curved bit of lightweight cardboard or plastic? Also, consider taking out the drain piece while you’re working on the sink and re-install after you’ve finished your new surface–that will help create a water-tight seal.

I have new laminate countertops that I am not happy with. The seems are not fitted together properly, and it shows. There is a lip on all of my seems. Could I still do the concrete over and float it? Or will it crack?

Jennifer, sorry your new counters are disappointing. I don’t think the concrete skim coat will crack, but it might be harder to go over the lip you mentioned. I would try to sand it down as much as you can to even it out. Be aggressive and smooth it down. But something to consider is that the concrete skim coat is not as much of a long-term solution as your new laminate counters, despite the bad seams. Good luck!

I am midway through this project and have just done my final round of sanding. I did it by hand and now there are lines where My finger pressure was stronger than other times. Do you know if these variations will show when it’s sealed?

It might, Maggie. But that could be part of the charm of your countertops? If you truly don’t want to see the lines, then trowel on one more coat and re-sand but this time use a sanding block. Good luck!

Hi Cathy, I think you can work with the rounded backsplash. Be sure to really rough it up and then you might have to literally use your fingers to apply. Then smooth out with your fingers or perhaps a bent piece of lightweight cardboard–like from a cereal box. Sand it with your hands and a piece of sandpaper, don’t use a block for the rounded section. Have fun!

Hi Christy, Acid wash is pretty intense, I would look for other options. You can use a dye to color the concrete while you’re mixing it, or you can use a glaze like the one I used on my pavers in this post: http://www.lovelyimperfection.com/the-easy-way-to-stain-concrete/ They turned out copper-like and might be the perfect option for you.

I am working on a post about my counter tops after three years, but they are still in good shape. If you drop something on it, it won’t crack (this applies to the sealer I used, can’t speak for other sealers) though it will kind of dent the counter. I figure it all adds to the patina.