Inleiding

Use this guide to replace the audio control and rocker switch buttons.

This guide requires removing the battery. When reinstalling the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but reinstalling it properly will keep it from rattling.

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The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 4.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

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Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

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Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

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When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

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Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

It was for me the most difficult part of the disassembly of the iPhone, I broke the two bands because I did not apply well to take off with the clamp. To get out of it ,. I twisted the battery with the tools so that the adhesive strips appeared to remove them without any problem.

I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

I was able to pull the strip all the way out from the bottom instead of working my way to the right edge. I never felt an increase in the resistance on the strip that would lead me to believe I needed to work towards the right edge.

This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

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When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.

Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

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Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the left side of the battery and the rear case.

Don't pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the audio controls cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.

Do not pry against the logic board, or you may permanently damage your iPhone.

Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

Thread the floss or string underneath one end of the battery and pull side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

Unfortunately, everything did not work out! Had to fumble with a card and a page for a long time and because the film from the battery has too much connected to the housing. As a result, she has solved and by warming unfortunately not really better.

This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!