Glebe Point Diner: Restaurant review

Nov 08, 2007 9:12pm

Address

407 Glebe Point RdGlebe, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Wed-Sun noon-2.30pm;Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-9.30pm

Prices

E $18-$20M $29-$36D $12-$15

REVIEW

If we're brutally honest, Glebe Point Road's status as an eat street rests more on the quantity of its outlets rather than the quality. But Glebe Point Diner stands tall among the handful of exceptions to the rule, a bistro with the sort of local charm that has near-universal appeal. The mild eccentricity of its striped walls and sometimes scatty service echo the cat-lady vibe of the neighbourhood, while the care put into sourcing quality sustainable ingredients strikes a chord with right-on residents. Smoked bonito, chilli oil and crème fraîche don't so much tango with the beef in a tartare as slam-dance, but the resulting flavour-punch is not unwelcome, while a waxy dice of potatoes, some clams, the brine of samphire and the tang of tarragon give juicy bass groper fillet an elegant backdrop. The wine list is short, smart and easy to like, as is the offer of individual cannoli as an alternative to larger desserts. Soul-warming stuff.

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant GuideWine: ★Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.