Excess on a plate: my $890 Ducasse disaster

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Surly waiters, sauna-like heat and food arriving faster than a Big Mac and fries — this T2 correspondent is unimpressed by the New York restaurant of the six-starred chef Alain Ducasse

Given the choice between standing in the middle of one of the worst blizzards of the past hundred years and eating in one of the most expensive, renowned restaurants in the world, for which would you opt?

Having done both last weekend, I would unhesitatingly opt for the former.

My girlfriend and I were in New York. As a treat, I booked a restaurant which I had long been desperate to try: Alain Ducasse at the Essex House. Ducasse is the only chef in the world to possess six Michelin stars: three for his restaurant in Paris and three in