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E36 (1991 - 1999) The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

And what will that accomplish? The crankshaft has much stronger forces exerted on it several times a second.

Not only is that weight negligible in operation, the crank bearings were designed with that load in mind. I don't heat of a lot of crank bearing failures, do you?

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ok i got another question.. my fan clutch bearing lost a couple balls and was wobbling around.. the bearing has not failed but idk how close it is to failure.. so im askin if i should replace it or take that weight off?

It definitely does not make any practical sense to remove your fan, and is making an already extremely weak cooling system even weaker.

And if your fan clutch bearing has "lost a couple balls", I wouldn't even drive the car like that. If it gives out while the engine is on, it could send the fan flying into the radiator, hood, hoses, etc, thus making a $30 & 15 minute repair much more costly.

Also to the OP (that's you JDMdudewhatever) the clutch fan weighs so little that you will get NO extra power by removing it. The electronic fan is meant to supplement the belt driven one, and not perform the whole duty. Our engines are very susceptible to overheating, and once you do you'll either wreck the head which is bookoo dollars or you'll blow the head gasket which is nearly as expensive to repair if you can't do it yourself. So to save yourself money in the long run, not to mention the brand new radiator you're probably planning to install, replace the damn fan and fan clutch

Also to the OP (that's you JDMdudewhatever) the clutch fan weighs so little that you will get NO extra power by removing it. The electronic fan is meant to supplement the belt driven one, and not perform the whole duty. Our engines are very susceptible to overheating, and once you do you'll either wreck the head which is bookoo dollars or you'll blow the head gasket which is nearly as expensive to repair if you can't do it yourself. So to save yourself money in the long run, not to mention the brand new radiator you're probably planning to install, replace the damn fan and fan clutch

i have the stage 3 cooling refresh kit from ecs tuning.. would you still recomend not doing it?

By "stage 3 cooling refresh kit" do you mean this one. if so the Stewart pump should last for ever. Are you sure it is failing? Also did you change the fan clutch and blade when you refreshed the cooling system. If so and the wobble started right after you refreshed it then maybe you installed something wrong.

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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers
“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman

By "stage 3 cooling refresh kit" do you mean this one. if so the Stewart pump should last for ever. Are you sure it is failing? Also did you change the fan clutch and blade when you refreshed the cooling system. If so and the wobble started right after you refreshed it then maybe you installed something wrong.

By "stage 3 cooling refresh kit" do you mean this one. if so the Stewart pump should last for ever. Are you sure it is failing? Also did you change the fan clutch and blade when you refreshed the cooling system. If so and the wobble started right after you refreshed it then maybe you installed something wrong.

i have not installed the refresh kit yet.. its on its way.. and i dont know that it is failing but i know that the vibration cannot be doin any good at all for it