The Idea: Build the Ultimate Vehicle Survival Kit

“Kit” in this instance could be seen as a bug out bag kit for your vehicle, a get home bag for your vehicle, or a general, all-inclusive vehicle “survival” kit. The common denominator here is vehicle.

While the idea is simple, the construction of it is not so simple. I’m not talking about buying the gear, I’m talking about what gear should go into it. That has the potential to be an endless debate, I know.

Reader Input Needed

I have my own items that I carry in my vehicle, so I could go off and write my own post on what I think is needed, but the reality is that two minds are better than one. Even better – a whole bunch of minds!

I have always learned as much from our readers as I hope readers have learned from us. Thus, I’m seeking your help.

I want your suggestions on what should go into an all-inclusive vehicle survival kit. I’m looking for specific item suggestions, as in not “something to make fire with” but more “X, Y, and Z lighters” (as an example). The information provided will be compiled into a future post that I hope will help readers looking to make their own vehicle kits.

The kit suggestions will be broken down into the following categories:

Communication

Navigation

Fire

Light

Food and Water

Medical

Personal Hygiene

Shelter/Clothing

Tools/Weapons

Miscellaneous Items

So, it would be highly appreciated if you could add your suggestions and/or general thoughts to the comments on this post (scroll down for comments section). Then, stay tuned for the resulting post!

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/building-a-vehicle-survival-kit-reader-input-needed/feed/4Mexican Gaspocalypse Prepper Lesson – Own a Motorcyclehttps://www.shtfblog.com/mexican-gaspocalypse-prepper-lesson-own-a-motorcycle/
https://www.shtfblog.com/mexican-gaspocalypse-prepper-lesson-own-a-motorcycle/#respondThu, 04 Jun 2020 11:00:00 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=19859Mexico is the eleventh largest producer of oil in the world and the thirteenth-largest in the exportation of oil. It has the seventeenth-largest oil reserves and is the fourth largest producer in the Western Hemisphere. And yet, in early 2019, Mexico experienced a gas shortage. The restructuring of the gas…

]]>Mexico is the eleventh largest producer of oil in the world and the thirteenth-largest in the exportation of oil. It has the seventeenth-largest oil reserves and is the fourth largest producer in the Western Hemisphere. And yet, in early 2019, Mexico experienced a gas shortage. The restructuring of the gas distribution system left many rural Mexican towns without gas for nearly two months.

by Jolina Flowers, SHTFblog’s Expat Prepper

Mexico’s Gaspocalypse

In Mexico, a motorcycle is a virtual necessity.

This Gaspocalypse in Mexico hit the area where I live quite hard. After the second week, there was not a drop of that liquid gold to be found in any of the surrounding towns. The roads were eerily deserted.

Gas shortages in 2017 and 2019.

By Thursday of the fourth week, there was a trickle of gas coming in. Gas stations opened at 8 am and were sold out by 11 am. People waited more than 6 hours in line. So many people camped out in their cars awaiting the next gas shipment in our town that an entire lane of traffic was closed to accommodate them, stretching for miles. Traffic was entirely rerouted.

The impacts of oil and gas scarcity went beyond just fuel for our vehicles. Few delivery trucks were up and running. Fresh fruit and vegetables became scarce. Bank trucks couldn’t get to banks to deliver cash, so the banks had no funds to disperse. Cooking gas wasn’t available for delivery either in many areas. The police were reduced to bike patrol.

Mexico’s Gas Shortage History

So how did things get to this critical juncture? Well, the well-intentioned president Andrés Manuel López Obrador closed the pipelines that traverse the country to cut down on out-of-control petroleum theft. Gas was to be brought to the stations via tanker truck under watchful military vigilance.

There weren’t enough trucks to meet delivery demand so the gas languished away at the port storage facilities. In fact, 60 oil tankers were anchored off-shore unable to offload their cargo. Some had been waiting for more than a month. Thus it remained a distribution problem rather than an actual gas shortage.

Finally the first week of February, the Mexican government hired privately owned trucks to help alleviate the delivery backup. The trucks ran 24 hours a day and were escorted by military police until the distribution was again regulated.

Gaspocalypse Lessons Learned

The gas shortage demonstrated how very fragile the infrastructure is here in Mexico. It’s only a matter of time before another issue creates a new gas crisis. So what can you do to better prepare?

Top your tank up whenever you can

Use bikes or motorcycles to get around

Stock up on non-perishable food

Have an alternative way to cook

Our motorcycles, called motos here in Mexico, were life savers, literally. One tank of gas in my husband’s motorcycle costs $200 pesos and will last us about three weeks. My moto doesn’t get quite as good mileage, but for $90 pesos (under $5 USD) I can go nearly two weeks making one trip to town and back.

Prior Motorcycle Experience

In my pre-expat life, I didn’t own a motorcycle. This is a skill that I picked up since my move to Mexico. It has provided me with such a degree of independence that when I was without a moto for nearly a year recently, I felt imprisoned.

There was a bit of a learning curve in mastering moto driving. I opted for an automatic rather than standard model, both because it was easier to drive without having to worry about a clutch and because it was smaller, so I could reach the ground with both feet when stopped.

Unfortunate Mexican Motorcycle Experience

There are also some hazards to driving a moto in Mexico. Several years ago, my in-laws were involved in a crash that killed my mother-in-law. My father-in-law was driving the moto and my mother-in-law was a passenger. They had just gone to fill up the gas tank and were crossing the intersection to go to work when a police truck going more than 200 kilometers per hour hit them. My mother-in-law was dragged nearly 100 feet in the grill of the truck.

The police covered up much of the evidence and the officer driving has been transferred to another town, so there was no justice for her death. Newspaper articles were used to shift the blame on my father-in-law, saying things like no one was wearing helmets and that he had hit the side of the truck, which were blatant lies. But that’s pretty much how things go here in Mexico.

It’s also important that you have your documents in order when driving a moto. As a permanent resident, I have been able to get my motorcycle driver’s license without too much fuss. The motorcycle also must have a license plate and a permit to circulate card.

A second hazard to driving in Mexico is the inevitable shake down by police, known asla mordida(a little bite). Having a driver’s license, license plates and circulation card will cut down on the extortion you’ll experience. Of course, there could be other issues that might result in a cash exchange, like a broken headlight or a missing mirror, so you won’t be completely out of the woods, but it will help.

Driving itself can be perilous. Topes (speed bumps) and potholes can really do a number on your front suspension. Drivers of larger vehicles are less than careful when it comes to the motorcyclist. Vicious chihuahuas and piles of horse dung are also hazards in my area.

Gaspocalypse Motorcycle Summary

Despite all these issues, not only does using a motorcycle as your primary means of transportation save your bacon during a Gaspocalypse, but also you can pretty much park wherever you want, including up on the sidewalk. I’m sure there is some sort of local ordinance that prohibits that, but I haven’t seen anyone enforce it in the 15 years I’ve been driving my moto around town.

And having survived that last Gaspocalypse in Mexico, I’ve also learned that having a bit more provisions than you think you might need on hand, is a good idea. The next gas shortage might be the last.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/mexican-gaspocalypse-prepper-lesson-own-a-motorcycle/feed/0How to Protect Yourself and Your Family from Nuclear Fallouthttps://www.shtfblog.com/how-to-protect-yourself-and-your-family-from-nuclear-fallout/
https://www.shtfblog.com/how-to-protect-yourself-and-your-family-from-nuclear-fallout/#respondWed, 03 Jun 2020 16:41:00 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20875This world has become crazy, hasn’t it? Given the current situation in the world, it is not surprising that people who recently only wanted to find a nice dating site with pretty girls started to read articles on how to survive in an urban area during various cataclysms. Everyone here…

This world has become crazy, hasn’t it? Given the current situation in the world, it is not surprising that people who recently only wanted to find a nice dating site with pretty girls started to read articles on how to survive in an urban area during various cataclysms. Everyone here likely knows that the best way to survive in any situation is to be prepared for it. So, today we decided to remind us of the most important rules and factors of survival during the fallout.

Nowadays, there are tons of computer games, books, and fan-made stories about nuclear fallout. Unfortunately, in the majority of cases, those can’t serve as reliable sources of information and must never be used as survival guides. To write this article, we used cold-war qualified books and videos about possible dangers from the fallout.

Three Simple Rules for Surviving Nuclear Fallout

find shelter

stay there

stay informed.

So, some modern terrorists brought an atomic bomb to a city near you. What are your first steps? As you understand, the whole situation depends on your location during the initial blast. If you have survived it and didn’t sustain any injuries, then you have approximately 30 minutes to get to your family. During this time, radioactive ashes will remain high in the atmosphere, and won’t harm you. However, they will fall down pretty soon, so don’t waste your time. Chances are that your vehicle will fail. Hence, you may need to find a bicycle or just run home to get your family.

As soon as you find your family, you need to act very fast and calm. Your first task is to find a nice shelter. It is better to prefer a large building with reinforced concrete walls. The thicker the walls, the better. However, if you see that radioactive ashes have already started to fall down, you may have no time to get to such a building.

The radioactive ash is not that dangerous at the beginning, because the biggest flakes are still in the air. This gives you enough time to turn your house into a shelter. Follow these steps…

1. Find the Deepest Part of Your House

This works with any other place. Remember, the more barriers between you and radioactive ashes, the better. Thus, you need to find the deepest place in your house. It is perfect if you have a basement or cellar.

2. Stay Away from Exposed Parts of the Building

Here we are talking about windows, doors, and even external walls of your shelter. However, you still will need to act very quickly to close all windows and doors to prevent radioactive ashes from getting inside your shelter.

3. Collect Supplies

Your next step is to collect supplies. Start with water, because it is the heaviest, yet the most important item. Then start collecting food and medical supplies. Also, don’t forget about simple radio receiver and toys for your kids, because they will need a distraction.

4. Arrange a Toilet

Chances are that you won’t be able to leave your safe room for a couple of days. Hence, you need to make sure that you arrange at least some comfort for your family. A Bucket with a lid will do, and you may also need a curtain for privacy. I know that this sounds very bad, but the whole situation is terrible, and here we are talking about survival. Also, be ready to sometimes leave your shelter to empty the bucket.

5. Wear Protective Clothing

If we are talking about the attack of terrorists, then the government will arrange an evacuation in less than a day. However, you still need to be prepared to stay in your shelter for no less than 72 hours. Remember, the time of exposure and walls are the best defenders against radiation. The shorter the former and the thicker the latter, the more chances you have to survive.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/how-to-protect-yourself-and-your-family-from-nuclear-fallout/feed/0Lightweight Sleeping Options for Bug Out Baghttps://www.shtfblog.com/lightweight-sleeping-options-for-bug-out-bag/
https://www.shtfblog.com/lightweight-sleeping-options-for-bug-out-bag/#respondTue, 02 Jun 2020 11:00:00 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20451A sleep system has always been a mainstay in my bug out bag. If you need to overnight somewhere, you will be a lot happier (and a lot more effective the next day) if you can sleep well, especially since we are all used to sleeping on a mattress. by…

]]>A sleep system has always been a mainstay in my bug out bag. If you need to overnight somewhere, you will be a lot happier (and a lot more effective the next day) if you can sleep well, especially since we are all used to sleeping on a mattress.

by J. Bridger, contributing writer

A sleep system doesn’t have to weigh 15 pounds and take up your entire bag. I like to use a blanket or sleeping bag, ground pad, and ground sheet. The pad keeps the ground from sucking heat out of you, and the sheet protects your equipment from the dirt. I tried hammocks but found them to be just as heavy a tents and a little inconvenient. You still need something on your backside, and if you can’t find two trees, you’re SOL. Here I talk about a couple lightweight options that work well for me.

Double Black Diamond Throw – The Perfect Bugout Blanket?

In pursuit of warmer, lighter gear, I have found it gets expensive quickly. I see $300 down quilts all the time on the internet. For outdoor sleeping, I was using a heavy wool blanket. It was warm and tough as can be, but bulky and very heavy. It ate up way too much room in my pack.

Soon after, I graduated to a down sleeping bag made by Wenger. Good to 20 degrees, it weighs in at 2lbs 8oz. It was space age compared to my old wool blanket. It’s a great bag, but I needed something I could use in the spring and summer months. Occasionally, I find something that is an absolute gem. That one item that is good quality, fills a need perfectly, and doesn’t break the bank. Browsing Amazon one day, I came across the Double Black Diamond Down Throw. I couldn’t get it to the checkout line fast enough, and it’s been in my pack ever since.

My first impression was that this blanket is warm and light. The shell is made of 20D polyester and nylon and contains 700 fill power down. The website states its size as 60 inches x 70 inches, but mine measured 54 in. x 67in. I bet if I pulled it taut, it would be 60”x70”, but I didn’t measure it that way. It packs down small, about 6”x11”. It doesn’t include a compression sack, which would’ve made this deal even sweeter.

You can buy a cheap compression sack, but the sack it came in works fine. I use it at night as a pillow, stuffed full of clothes or other items. It also packs down and fits perfectly in a 2L dry bag. I leave mine in its own 8L dry bag because I keep it ready to go all the time.

Double Black Diamond Throw Field Test

The first night I used the down throw, I was comfortably warm. It was chilly (in the mid-50s) at about 7,300’ above sea level. One of only two problems I had was this blanket was so light, about any breeze that came through would blow it off my shoulders. Not a huge deal, but it really pissed me off at the time.

stitched toe box

To remedy this, I stitched a toe box into it, resembling a sleeping bag halfway unzipped. The next time I used it (for my Buckskin Gulch trip) it was perfect. I had no problems with it coming off during the night.

For the final test, I did an overnight hike up a rocky valley to some dried-up falls. It was about 8,800’ above sea level, and that night it got down to 45. It was pretty chilly in the wind. I slept in a base layer, socks, and a beanie.

The forecast gave a 50% chance of rain, so I pitched a tarp shelter. The tarp kept the wind off, and it never rained (I’ll bet if I hadn’t pitched a tarp, it would have poured). I never got cold, but I don’t think I would want to test it down any farther. If it’s less than 45, I’ll just bring my sleeping bag.

The only other problem I had, and it’s not a huge issue, but this blanket is slightly short. I’m 5’-9”, and it’s perfect for me. If it was any shorter, it’d be too short. If you’re any taller, it may be too short for you. Many people online have combined two blankets for a loftier, larger quilt. If I had the sewing prowess and the patience, I would do that, but… I don’t. I suspect this would also make a great DIY under quilt for hammock camping.

I really like this blanket for backpacking, especially when I know what the conditions are going to be. This would be a great blanket for children, or to keep in your bugout bag during the summer. In the winter months, I would swap it out for something warmer. It’s cheap enough you could get a couple to keep in your truck.

The only issues keeping this from being the perfect bugout blanket are few. It’s made in China, and it would not offer any warmth if it were wet. The shell seems durable enough, but I would be wary of burning Osage orange near it, it may pop and send a hot ember through the shell. I have washed it in the machine a couple times, but I let it air dry. It hasn’t seemed to hurt it any. The price is right, it’s lightweight, and warm down to the mid-40s for me. They hit a home run with this one.

Cons: May be a bit short for some. Made in China. No compression sack. So light it may blow off at night.

Bug Out Sleeping Pads

Sleeping pads may not be as sexy as ARs or picking handcuffs, but trust me, they are a must-have item for any backpack or bug out bag. If you spend a night on the trail or in a bug out scenario, you will be glad you had the forethought to pack a solid pad. They prevent heat loss from the ground and will give you a better night’s rest. This equates to a better attitude and performance. This goes without saying, but if you carry an inflatable pad, make sure you carry a patch kit.

From L to R: AXL, Prolite, NEO Air, and Z-Lite

If I had to choose one pad, I’d say it depends on the mission. What’s the weather like? Am I going to use it in my bugout bag? Is it going to live in my truck’s ‘get home bag’ and probably never be used, except on car-camping trips? If you can live with the bulk, the Z-Lite is cheap, warm, and won’t deflate on you. If you can’t, and need a little more comfort, the NEOAir XLite is a proven pad. Sometimes simple is best!

Therm-A-Rest Z-Lite

The Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite was my first pad, and I love how simple it is. You don’t have to blow it up, so there’s no chance of a leak. I’ll never have to haul this thing to the nearest river or bathtub to try to find the tiny hole ruining my life. It’s lightning fast to set out and pack up. It doesn’t offer much comfort on hard ground, but it will keep you warm.

My biggest complaint is it’s bulky, so I usually strap it to the outside of my pack. This makes it more susceptible to wear and tear, but it’s handy to whip out to lay down for a quick rest on the trail. I don’t have an under quilt, so if I’m hanging in my hammock, I just use this. It’s soft and pliable enough that it isn’t uncomfortable, and it keeps my back side warm. I got a short one to keep things light, and I don’t regret it. I use my empty pack for my feet to keep my ankles off the ground and my feet warm. Perfect!

Weight: 9.78 oz (277 grams)

Packed Dimensions: 5.25”x3.75×20”.

Dimensions in Use: 20”x51.5” (Approximately 4 ft 3.5 in)

Breaths to Inflate: Zero

Pros: Lightweight. Doesn’t require inflating and can’t pop. Quick set up and take down.

Cons: Bulky, not much comfort on hard ground.

Cost: Around $25.

Big Agnes AXL Air Mummy

one-way valve

The Big Agnes AXL is super light and easily the most comfortable pad I’ve used. I even like the color. The one-way valve doesn’t let air out between breathes, which is great. If you’re high in elevation, you may have to stop and catch your breath to inflate this pad. It’s as wide as my Z-lite, but for some reason it feels narrower. The material is so light and thin, it can be challenging to fold and roll up in the wind.

Big Agnes (BA) doesn’t report an R-value for this pad, but I have used it on a windy 30 night at 11,000’ above sea level. That was a cold night, and I may have been warmer with an insulated pad, but I still slept well. Since that night was so cold, I stuffed whatever I could between the ground tarp and my pad. My scarf, dirty socks, dry bags, etc. If BA made a 26” wide three-quarter length pad, it would be perfect. BA makes a dry bag that you can use to push air into this pad, which is a clever idea. That may be something you want to consider if you’re looking at this pad.

Weight: 10.26 oz (292 grams)

Packed Dimensions: Approximately 3.25”x8”. Slightly smaller than a Nalgene.

Therm-A-Rest NEOAir XLite

This is a very popular choice for people that like the best money can buy. The NeoAir Xlite is a ¾ length pad, so you may want to put your pack under your feet to make up that length. It’s a little loud initially, but this improves with use. It’s very light and packs up small. It has better insulation than the Big Agnex AXL. It’s a little small for me. It’s probably best for petite people or sleepers who aren’t picky.

Weight: 8.12 oz (230 g)

Packed Dimensions: Approx. 3”x8.5”

Dimensions in Use: 45” Long. Widest point is 19”, tapers to 9” at foot end.

Breaths to Inflate: 12 (Your mileage may vary).

Pros: Super light-weight. Packs easily. Comfortable. Comes with a patch kit. No holes after about 80 nights of use. R value is 3.8.

Cons: Crinkly and loud initially. This improves after some use. Valve will let air out between breaths.

Cost: Around $175

Therm-A-Rest Prolite

For regular use, the Therm-A-Rest Prolite works great. Its weight & stowed size are the main drawbacks. It will keep you warm on a cold night but lacks the comfort of a thicker pad. This is a good pad for car camping. If you’re trying to keep your pack light, this won’t be your first choice.

Weight: 16.64 oz (472 g)

Packed Dimensions: Approximately 5”x11”. Slightly larger than a Nalgene.

Dimensions in Use: 20”x66”

Breaths to Inflate: 7

Pros: Full length. Has padding inside. R Value of 3.

Cons: Weight. Length is unnecessary for the summer. Did not come with a patch kit. Valve will let air out between breaths.

Cost: Around $90

A comparison of sleeping pad depths.

Ground Sheets

Here in the desert, I can get by without a shelter if it doesn’t rain. There aren’t any mosquitoes, and there is no dew. Thank goodness. I never realized how nice it was not to deal with those things. For simplicity’s sake I just use a pad, blanket, and ground sheet. The ground sheet keeps my pad and blanket clean, which will hopefully make them last longer. It’s also more hygienic in a long-term scenario.

Gossamer Gear makes a Polycryo Tent Footprint in medium (40”x96”) and large (72”x96”). These come in a 2 pack for $10. These are super light (Med is 1.6oz, Large is 3.6oz) and surprisingly durable. For the weight and the price, you can’t beat these. If weight isn’t on your mind, it should be. If you disagree, you should throw on your ruck and bust out a 10-mile hike. I didn’t think I would like the fact that they are clear, but I do. I can see if there is a rock or something sharp I’m going to be laying on.

Another option is the blue backpacker’s tarp at WalMart. It’s $10, and I trimmed the grommets and excess size off with scissors. It can fit 2 comfortably and weighs about 6oz. It’s a little more durable. These sheets take up almost no room in my pack, and they don’t break the bank. I wish everything was that simple.

For less than two pounds of weight, I can be comfortable down to 45 degrees. That keeps me safe and gives me the ability to cover a lot of ground without being exhausted. I’ve done 20 miles in a day with this in my pack, all over 8,000’. It sucks, but I can do it.

Lightweight Sleeping Bug Out Summary

If your pack is too heavy you risk exhaustion, injury, and being slow and ineffective. Slow and ineffective is just that – slow and ineffective.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/lightweight-sleeping-options-for-bug-out-bag/feed/0Surprisingly Common Gun Safety Violationshttps://www.shtfblog.com/surprisingly-common-gun-safety-violations/
https://www.shtfblog.com/surprisingly-common-gun-safety-violations/#respondMon, 01 Jun 2020 11:00:00 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20730I’d enrolled my young sons in a state-mandated two-day firearms hunter safety course and it was finally time for Day One. The long line outside the local fish & game clubhouse gun club eventually began to move, and as we stepped through the large front door, we were greeted by…

]]>I’d enrolled my young sons in a state-mandated two-day firearms hunter safety course and it was finally time for Day One. The long line outside the local fish & game clubhouse gun club eventually began to move, and as we stepped through the large front door, we were greeted by a dozen guns.

A Not-so Safe Gun Safety Course

Each firearm was neatly laid out on a conference table – with its muzzle pointed directly at us! Both of my sons picked up on this immediately. So much for Rule #2 (see below) and the credibility of the instructors. I don’t think they ever knew the difference, but I’m guessing we weren’t the only attendees who noticed this glaring contradiction. Only a short time later, firearms safety rules were conveyed with great solemnity.

Not that I’m knocking the value of the Firearms Hunter Safety Course. They’ve been around for years and their success in reducing hunting mishaps is beyond debate. In fact, thanks to the direct efforts of committed volunteer instructors, hunting is now among the safest sports.

Fortunately, the above example of a basic firearms safety tenet violation is an exception, but it does go to show that even some supposedly “experienced gun people” can be sloppy gun handlers. Too bad, because like some other fields, they’re also role models.

Would you want your kids in a vehicle with a Driver’s Ed instructor who runs stop signs or ignores yellow lines? Nope, me either. Worse would be lack of any training whatsoever. That’s why we don’t toss a set of keys to new drivers after having them read an owner’s manual.

All drivers make mistakes at one time or another, however. Just like with guns, sometimes those mistakes might just wake you up. Other times they might just end your life – or someone else’s. Safety is everything. Let’s start with the basics.

Four Universal Firearms Safety Rules

A simple but widely recognized set of safety rules has evolved. Initially developed by prominent trainers, today’s four “universal firearms safety rules” are now the gold standard for safe range operations and gun handling.

#1 – Always treat every firearm as if loaded.#2 – Never let the muzzle cover anything you’re unwilling to destroy.#3 – Always keep your finger off the trigger until the sights are on the target.#4 – Always be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

Paradoxically, some gun buyers with little-to no experience take possession of new handguns, boxed with factory literature and a trigger locks. At that point, adios and out the door. With luck, the included paperwork will actually be read prior to handling. Most factory manuals do include safety rules, along with loading and unloading instructions. If followed to the letter, safe handling and operation should be possible at a basic level. However, safety information can vary, sometimes to address proprietary features.

Our Additional Firearms Safety Rules

Until recently, I was the Officer in Charge (OIC) of a busy government firearms training unit. During a nearly three-decade period involving thousands of shooters – thanks largely to the vigilance of well-qualified firearms training unit (FTU) cadre – we were able to maintain a spotless safety record. Beyond strict adherence to the above four rules we added several others, including:

#5: Check any firearm you handle upon assuming custody of it.#6: If you don’t understand how it works, leave it alone.#7: Don’t exchange a firearm unless the action is open.

These are firearm “rules of the road,” analogous to staying within yellow lines and obeying stop signs or red lights. Anyone with a safe driving record should be able to follow them. For other “accident-prone types,” pepper spray is a safer bet (the nozzle thingy points away from your face).

That said, many good drivers have been involved in some type of accident which could even be their fault. Likewise, many serious gun people have experienced one game-changing accidental discharge (AD). Such an event is often referred to as a “negligent discharge” (a technically more accurate assessment).

Either way though, it’s a serious wake-up call almost certainly related to Rule #3, and likely involving Rule #1 (for now, note the “almost certainly” caveat). In most cases these folks are still active if humbled shooters because Rules #2 and #4 were followed, confining collateral damage to underwear.

Still, some “experienced shooters” persist with sloppy gun handling. Watch the various gun-related shows on the outdoor channels and you’ll see supposed professionals violate Rule #2.

One regular occurrence involves muzzle-swept fingers during coverage of new handgun models. I’d love to hear a loud buzzer sound off every time this happened. Entertainment aside, the educational value for all would be priceless. Pay attention to others handling firearms in your proximity and you may note similar alarms. In fact, the aggravating mental buzzer could even involve you!

Muzzle control is a major concern, particularly among newer shooters. It’s just a whole lot easier to wave a handgun around, not that you can’t get in trouble with a shotgun or rifle. Heck, a guy in my military outfit succeeded in blowing a large hole through his hand with an M-60 machine gun. I could go on with plenty more stories, but I’d rather help avoid future ones.

Common Handgun Safety Violations

Plenty of additional basic safety information is available online, so instead of listing a bunch of dos and don’ts, I’ll note some potential areas of hazard we’ve witnessed with frequency, many while on ranges.

Removing a Firearm from a Case Muzzle Control

Think about where the muzzle will be pointing in relationship to others before opening a container, or removing a gun! Failure to do so is an all-too common screw-up, even though it’s among the easiest to address. We have the luxury of our own range, so we can manage this situation. Any handgun not holstered will be immediately cleared in a designated area and benched, action open, facing a safe backstop. This SOP is also employed during many combat-type pistol matches like IPSC. Sadly, such controls are necessary for a reason. Again, think about others in your proximity! And, FYI, most bullets will penetrate most walls.

Donning/Dismounting a Holster Containing a Handgun

There’s a good chance Rule #2 will be compromised through this practice. The safest bet is to skip it entirely. Remove the handgun first.

Two-Handed Recovery (Re-holstering)

This bad habit can develop through poor holster designs or clothing choices. If the support hand (the left one for most of us) goes to the holster ahead of the gun, sooner or later, it WILL be swept by the muzzle.

For starters, get that finger off the trigger! Also, relocate the support-hand to the solar plexus.Initiate the draw sequence similarly.

Trigger Finger Inside Trigger Guard During Recovery

Look closely and you’ll see two dangling items that could easily wind up inside the trigger guard. An untucked sweatshirt could cause a similar situation.

Foreign-Object Interference

Back to the “almost certainly” caveat, a piece of sweater or a drawstring that enters the trigger guard can cause a discharge while re-holstering – especially with striker-fired pistols that have so-called “trigger-safety” features. Errant items in pockets or purses can raise further havoc if they migrate into trigger guards.

Failure to Maintain Two-Handed Control

A conversation on a firing line can result in distractions that lead to a Rule #2 violation. Whether you talk with your hands or not, remove the support hand only during the recovery (re-holstering) process. Any conversations can wait until it’s completed.

A loose handgun in a pocket, pack, or purse is an invitation to disaster. With only minimal pressure this lipstick will cause a discharge.

Failure to De-cock During Recovery

This omission can be stress-induced. It applies mainly to double-action pistols like a Beretta M-92, etc., however, single-action designs can pose similar risks (like 1911s holstered without thumb safeties engaged). The cure is as simple. Stop and think before recovering the gun.

This D/A pistol was never intended to be carried cocked. Activation of the de-cocking lever will safely drop the hammer, but that critical step was omitted in this example.

By recovering a pistol with your thumb behind the slide, you may detect an unsafe condition. If you feel a bit of slide retraction stop! Good chance the cause is something in the holster.

Breakdown of Trigger-finger Discipline

Although seen most often among new shooters, Rule #3 violations can surface as a result of marginal training – especially if the stress-meter begins to climb.

Malfunction-induced Brain Cramps

Muzzle discipline can evaporate, commensurate with the complexity of a stoppage. Stop and engage brain. Priority-one is Rule #2!

Unsafe Clearance

First, seek a safe location! Second, assuming the gun is a pistol, remove the magazine (preferably while still holstered). The chambered round is extracted last. Sounds simple enough, but this sequence is sometimes reversed. Look in the chamber(s) after unloading it. Look in that mag-well, too. Both should be empty! Swing-out cylinder revolvers are simpler but, regardless of the gun, check it at least twice!

Sloppy Gun Handling During Cleaning

Whether alone or in a group setting ALL of the rules apply! For whatever reason group cleaning-fests are especially prone to muzzle-related brain-farts.

A holster is worthwhile if allowed on your range. It’ll free up both hands and greatly improve muzzle control. Some facilities, especially indoor ranges, will restrict handgun usage to shooting bays, sans holsters. Whatever the circumstances, don’t handle firearms while others are downrange and factor in muzzle orientation.

Common Long-gun Safety Violations

Much of the above applies here as well. In my area, a former police chief received a refresher on “foreign object interference” by blowing off a thumb. His cruiser’s shotgun was stowed horizontally via S-hooks attached to a security cage. One hook passed through the trigger guard; never the best of plans. Neither was pulling the gun towards him, muzzle-first. When it comes to blowing off body parts though, there are worse alternatives, especially considering this “accident” happened in the busiest part of town. Which leads to…

Horizontal Guns

Commonly associated with vehicles, boats, or ATVs, odds of violating Rule #2 are high. Sometimes though, it’s the most expedient method. If so, an unloaded and cased gun offers some reassurance. Regarding passengers and multiple guns, just step aside during handling and take turns to avoid muzzle mayhem.

If you need to lay it down, factor in a safe direction. An opened action is also reassuring.

Carrying a Gun like a Hoe or Rake

A firearm deserves more respect – especially in the company of others. Extremely problematic were early carry-handle M-16s, which were routinely carried like luggage.

Unsafe Sling Carries and Dismounts

Single-point slings can be iffy regarding Rule #2 (see problems with single-point slings on AR-15s). Sporting-type slings are pretty basic, but an under-the-shoulder dismount can jeopardize anyone to the rear. Bending or stooping can create similar risks.

Leaning Guns

Running late, Billy notices Clem’s orange hat is still on the dash. So, Clem leans his deer rifle against the truck and hops back in – whereupon it tips over. What happens next is a matter of chance. Slippery butt-plates and floors don’t play well either. Some firearms can fire from a hard jolt, regardless of the safety being “on” (see below).

Tree Stands and the Like

Per above, times ten! Climbing or descending with a loaded gun is suicidal, as are other gymnastics (like jumping creeks). Some people climb using a sling, but a separate hoisting system is better. Do a dry-run first though to check the angle of the dangle. You may be surprised!

When a soaking-wet dog re-boards a boat with a mouthful of mallard, things can get crazy – and unsafe. So, first, the shotgun’s chamber will be cleared and it’ll be stowed in the rack. That’s much safer than propping a loaded gun on a seat.

Failure to Double-check a “Cleared” Gun

Don’t mindlessly cycle an action. If need be, use a light (vehicle headlights work) to visually ascertain clearance. With some types like shotguns, you can even insert a finger. I check everything before it enters a case, the house, or the safe. Anything coming out of the safe also gets checked.

Be More Mindful – Pause and Re-engage the Brain

A common but unsafe (around others) dismount.

All of these hazards can be eliminated through a mental pause, just a quick time-out to think things over. The concept is similar to parking your shiny new vehicle on a steep incline. Thinking worst-case, you take a few extra seconds to cut the wheels inboard and apply the emergency brake.

Proper hands-on training is still essential. Normally, the affordable starting point is a local gun shop or club, affiliated with NRA Firearm Instructors (which differ from hunter safety). In a pinch, some new gun owners may turn to military or LE folks for guidance. Generally, that’s better than winging it, although muzzle awareness could still be shaky.

Common Gun Safety Violations Summarized

Rules #5, #6, and #7 are ignored with alarming frequency, either through ignorance or carelessness. Thus, Uncle Bud strolls into the living room with his pet gun. He hands it to his nephew, action closed. Neither bother to check it. That’s how the TV winds up getting shot… or worse, Aunt Edna. If it’s Auntie, the media will probably report the gun as having “accidentally fired.”

The reality is, if we cocked a gun, laid it on a table fully loaded, and waited for it to go off, we’d probably die of old age first. So is there such a thing as “accidentally fired” or is it really “negligent handling”?

They fire because someone activated the trigger. Safe storage methods are a story for another day. Meanwhile, controlled access is a paramount concern. Gun safes are good, but there are other options like secure handgun containers.

Back to that Hunter Firearms Safety Course, vertical storage would’ve been better, assuming a decent gun rack was present. Since one wasn’t, the area behind the rear wall was just woods – a direction much less likely to endanger human life. Sometimes there is no perfect solution. Like driving, firearm safety boils down to common sense – and awareness.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/surprisingly-common-gun-safety-violations/feed/0Should You Become an EMT for Prepper Medical Training?https://www.shtfblog.com/should-you-become-an-emt-for-prepper-medical-training/
https://www.shtfblog.com/should-you-become-an-emt-for-prepper-medical-training/#commentsFri, 29 May 2020 11:00:00 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20450I have been very fortunate in my short life to be able to some things not everyone gets the opportunity to do. I have studied engineering, geology, and medicine. I earned my pilot’s license. I spent four of the best years of my life on a fire department. I worked…

I have been very fortunate in my short life to be able to some things not everyone gets the opportunity to do. I have studied engineering, geology, and medicine. I earned my pilot’s license. I spent four of the best years of my life on a fire department. I worked as a personal trainer, framer, lifeguard, and at a shooting range. That said, hands down one of the most rewarding and influential things I have done was become an Advanced EMT. But does it make sense for a prepper to do the same?

by J. Bridger, contributing writer

Being an EMT taught me to deal with pressure, make difficult decisions, and showed me a side of humanity most people don’t get to see. It was humbling. It was hard. And it was worth it.

If you have the prepper mindset, I will offer to you that medical knowledge is one of the most important skills you can have. In my opinion, it’s not something you can really learn on your own. You need expert guidance and practice.

Can you differentiate between a panic attack and a heart attack?

Can you stop an arterial bleed?

Can you recognize a diabetic emergency, a stroke, or know when to begin CPR?

If a young child is wheezing, would you administer Narcan, Albuterol, or Epinephrine?

If you are considering an EMT course, I urge you to do it. I am going to tell you about my experience in class, certifying, and what the work life is like. If you are on the fence, hopefully this will give you the information you need to make a more informed decision.

What an EMT is and What an EMT is Not

An EMT is not a paramedic. An EMT is not a coroner, nurse, doctor, or advanced practice provider.

An EMT, or Emergency Medical Technician, is an individual that is trained and certified to provide emergency medical care. The care they provide is lifesaving, but usually not definitive. What I mean by that is they are not going to diagnose your asthma and form a stepwise treatment plan for you. Their job is to treat life threats and get you to a higher echelon of care.

Depending on what state you live in, there are usually four types of emergency medical providers. Despite being a medical occupation, EMS (Emergency Medical Services) got its start under the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration in the 1960s. This is good and bad, as is everything when the government is involved. You will see what I mean.

EMR – Emergency Medical Responder

This may still be called “First Responder” in some areas, but it has recently changed. That was a poorly chosen name in the first place, as a first responder in my book could be the ambulance staff, cops, fire fighters, or bystanders. This level of training is below that of an EMT but is an attractive option for many reasons.

Cost of certification, length of program, and number of CE hours required to keep the certification are the lowest of the emergency medical techs. If you are seeking to supplement your skills as a LEO, volunteer firefighter, or for whatever reason, this certification deserves consideration. You will learn about common medical emergencies and how to assess and treat a patient.

EMT – Emergency Medical Technician

Formerly known as EMT-B or EMT-Basic in some areas. EMT is generally the entry level certification required to work on a fire department or on an ambulance. If you wish to be an AEMT or paramedic, you must start here. You cannot skip straight to a higher certification level (however, you may skip EMR). AEMT and Paramedic programs will certify you as an EMT initially. Program length will vary but is usually about a semester.

AEMT – Advanced EMT (EMT-I, EMT-D, or EMT-99)

This is an interesting level, as it gives you IV and IO skills that you didn’t have as an EMT. This allows you to give way more medications like lidocaine, epinephrine, morphine, fentanyl, normal saline, and more. It allows you to provide care at the Advanced Life Support level. This helps bring a higher level of care to areas where paramedics may be harder to come by (like rural areas). This is a great way to gain extra skills, training, and pay without committing to a two-year Paramedic program. Program length will vary but is usually another semester after you’ve obtained your EMT certification.

Paramedics – Mobile Intensive Care Technician or EMT-P

This is the highest level of certification, and their scope is impressive. IVs, drugs, advanced cardiac care, and some really bad ass skills are all performed by paramedics. Critical Care Paramedic and Flight Paramedic are additional certifications you can obtain. This is usually a two-year program but can be found as an accelerated 12-week program, or even two weeks (generally only for advanced practice providers, RNs, or physicians looking to obtain extra certification, see Creighton University).

What can I do as an EMT?

What is in an EMT’s scope? This will differ by state and local protocols. Maybe an EMT here can give this drug or do this skill, but in a different county, state, or hospital/ambulance service, they can’t. Confounding, I know. Don’t worry about it. It’s the name of the game. EMTs are trained to handle all kinds of things: taking vitals, obtaining histories, lifting and moving patients, securing the airway, physical exam, pharmacology, birth, bleeding, trauma, anaphylaxis, drug overdose, cardiac arrest, heart attacks, respiratory distress, stroke, heat and cold injuries, behavioral emergencies, fractures, head and spine injuries, and pediatrics just to name a few. It’s a blast, let me tell you.

Many firefighters are also EMTs.

If you decide to become an EMT you will learn CPR, administer drugs within your scope according to your protocols (for example albuterol, oxygen, Narcan, activated charcoal, aspirin, nitroglycerin, oral glucose, and epi pens) and hand patients off to doctors and nurses. What are things you will not do?

Generally, EMTs do not start IVs, IOs, intubate, or manually defibrillate patients in cardiac arrest. You will use OPAs, NPAs, and supraglottic airways like king tubes or combitubes. If you work a cardiac arrest, you will use the monitor in AED mode instead of identifying and shocking the rhythm manually. You will not declare people dead, and you will not give pain meds like morphine and fentanyl. I have heard of states where EMTs start IVs and intubate, but I’m not sure if that’s legit or gossip. This is just from my experience.

What’s the cost to become an EMT?

If this is something you are looking into, I bet cost is on your mind. There is a lot of variation between programs. The best thing you can do is search out the information on your local college’s website. My EMT program was less than $3,000 in 2015. My AEMT program was less than that and was at a different school.

A paramedic program, usually part of an associate degree program, may cost you $10,000 or more. Don’t fret, because it is generally part of a degree program (eligible for student loans). Because I was not degree seeking, my EMT and AEMT classes were not eligible for loans. However, the fire department picked up the cost for me to certify. If being a firefighter is your end goal, you may be able to get a similar deal.

What is the EMT class schedule and time commitment?

You will hear me say this a lot, and that’s because its true: your mileage may vary. My EMT class was Monday and Wednesday nights from 6pm to 10pm, and this went from January to July. Some nights we got out early. Some nights we didn’t.

Basic EMT everyday carry supplies.

My advanced EMT class was Tuesday and Thursday nights from 6pm to 10pm, but this was only for a semester (16 weeks). There are hybrid programs that allow you to do the classroom work online but require you to physically attend to learn the skills. I have no experience with these.

I can’t tell you what paramedic school is like, but if it’s an associate’s program, there may be classes like anatomy, physiology, math, and English along with your medical classes. In my experience, EMT classes are offered with the assumption the student is working full time, so finding evening classes shouldn’t be an issue.

What are EMT classes like?

Class was pretty cool. We had to buy EMS boots, pants, and a student polo. We wore these to every class. You should buy the textbook. Its big, but it’s got a TON of great information in there. It is something like 40 chapters. The first few are pretty boring. Medicolegal and ethical issues, documentation, communication, lifting and moving patients, you get the idea. Remember when I said the government had its hand in the start of EMS? Now you see what I mean.

Never fear! If it was easy everyone would do it. Your persistence will be rewarded with knowledge in respiratory and cardiovascular emergencies, environmental emergencies, poisonings, shock, trauma, bleeding, securing the airway, and more. Don’t let it overwhelm you. Going from zero to hero may be challenging, but it is worth it.

We generally covered one chapter each class and had a quiz on it at the start of the hour. It was their way of making people read. (Jokes on them, I found all of it on Quizlet). We had an exam over 5 or 6 chapters at a time, and a final exam at the end. We had to pass the final exam to pass the class and be eligible to certify.

In addition to classroom work, we also worked on skills, which I will outline for you here. As an EMT, there are 10 skills you must be able to perform (EMRs have less, AEMTs and medics have more). Those are:

Patient Assessment/Management – Trauma

Patient Assessment/Management – Medical

BVM Ventilation of an Apneic Adult Patient

Oxygen Administration by Non-rebreather Mask

Spinal Immobilization (Seated and Supine Patient)

Bleeding Control and Shock Management

Cardiac Arrest Management/AED

Joint Immobilization

Long Bone Immobilization

Don’t let this stress you out. I promise, if you’re reading this, dumber people than you have passed these skills! The skill sheets are on the National Registry of EMTs (NREMT) website, and you can download or print them at nremt.org. Just google it, and it will pop up. Your program WILL go over these skills with you, critique you, drill them into your head, and make sure you are good to go when it’s time to certify. If they don’t, find another program.

Lastly, there is “clinical” or ride along time. It is generally not much. For my EMT class, we needed 12 hours in the ER, and 36 on the ambulance, which equated to four 12-hour shifts. They set these up for us, and all we had to do was sacrifice two weekends to bust them out. It’s okay to be nervous, but don’t let it get to you. If you are polite and genuinely want to learn, chances are you will be well received by the crew you are working with. You may see ZERO patients in 12 hours on the ambulance, or you may run your ass off.

One of my twelve-hour shifts, we had no calls and I studied all day. Another student saw a cardiac arrest, necrotizing fasciitis in the perianal area, and an MCI (mass casualty incident) involving a horse and buggy. All in one day! Sadly, that student quit despite the fact that it was an honest to God anomaly. This is your chance to learn and see some cool stuff without any responsibility. If you’re lucky, they’ll even feed you.

What is EMT certification like?

Certification is a colossal pain in the ass, no two ways about it. You will need to do three things to certify:

Pass an EMT course (Including CPR certification),

Pass a written cognitive (knowledge) exam (this is done on the computer), and

Pass a skills or “psychomotor” examination.

Let me say this now, because I hear it all the time:

NO, because you were a medic in the military, they will not let you skip the EMT class.

NO, just because you are a CNA, LPN, RN, or whatever, they will not let you skip the EMT class.

NO, just because you “studied 2 years of premed” they will not let you skip the EMT class.

It doesn’t matter if you are an ER physician: You must have successfully passed a state approved EMT course within the last two years. If you’re looking for shortcuts, EMS is not for you.

You’ll become quite familiar with one of these in EMT training.

Now, the written test. The written test is adaptive. That means if you get a question correct, the next one is harder. If you get it wrong, the next one is easier. Once you get past a certain level of difficulty, or whenever it determines you’re a dumbass, it shuts off. No warning.

My exam was about 75 questions. Someone else’s may be 100. It just depends. This must be taken at a certified testing center, like a college or library. I think mine cost something like $75. My best advice for this is to take it immediately. Don’t wait. If you wait, you will lose information. Review the chapter summaries and questions in the book. Take it as soon as possible.

Once you have passed, your result is valid for one year. You should know you passed in a couple days. I remember seeing my results online somewhere. Once you have done that, all you must do is pass the skills examination. This will cost you $80 just to apply, and the exam site will charge you another fee. I think mine was $125. It sucks, but it takes a lot of people to put these exams on, and a lot of them volunteer their time.

My best advice is to study your ass off, and don’t freak out. The examiners see tons of kids come through. Most of them are awkward, suck at the skills, or are way too nervous. Just like in shooting – practice, practice, practice. They will be able to tell immediately if you know what you’re doing. Just memorize the check sheets and do your thing. No big deal.

Being calm will help you think. You will know the same day if you have passed the skills or not. If you fail a section, you may be able to retest the same day. I know these skills seem like a pain in the ass, but they will give you something to fall back on when the shit hits the fan and everyone is looking at you, expecting you to know what to do. Trust me, I’ve been there.

Now that you’ve crushed the course, written exam, and skills exam, you just wait for your shiny card, patch, and certificate to come from the NREMT. Now, you get to deal with an entire other huge pain in the ass: recertification.

What about EMT recertification?

Initially, you are required to certify with the NREMT. Why? Probably money. After that, you only need to recertify every two years with your state. They let you do this a few different ways. You can take the written and skills exams again, or complete continuing education credits in specific areas. You will need 40 hours in cardiovascular, medical, trauma, airway, and operations. You can get the CE’s by sitting in on an EMT course, going to conferences, taking refresher courses, or through your workplace. You will log these hours on their website. It’s kind of a pain but being a hero ain’t easy.

What is working as an EMT like?

Now that you have your EMT cert, the real education begins. I thought I was ready to kick ass when I was a new EMT, and I learned very quickly I was in over my head. Luckily, I worked with some very patient folks that took me under their wings. They let me struggle just enough and taught me a lot. You can work for an ambulance service, an interfacility transfer service, or a fire department. A lot of casinos hire EMTs as security. You could seek out a search and rescue team (usually volunteer). The more patient time you get, the better. Otherwise, your skills deteriorate.

Working as a full time EMT has its ups and downs. The first day, they told me 1 in 26 calls was a true emergency. I called BS, but they were absolutely right. In EMT class, they teach you everyone is dying. In real life, we ran 911 calls for spider bites, week old injuries, toe aches, an eyelash in the eye (I am NOT kidding), psych issues, and lots and lots and lots of lift assists. That’s okay.

If every call was a legit trauma or medical emergency, it would get old, fast. The pay is generally not great, and I met lots of EMTs with second jobs. You can pick up extra shifts and make decent money if you want to. The work is stressful, and erratic. You may run 10 calls a day, or zero. You may sleep all night through a 24-hour shift, or you may run all night. You may not get to eat. You may start to shower or put some chow in the oven and get a 911 call. You just never know.

A lot of people let their health go. It’s easy to do. Don’t be that person. Stay healthy. Exercise and eat well. Sleep when you can. Your heart and your back will thank you when you’re old.

Should preppers become EMTs?

The average career in EMS is only about 5 years long. In my opinion it’s because of pay and working conditions. For this reason, I advise you to start with the end in mind.

Do you want to be a firefighter? Do you want to be more prepared? Do you want to be a paramedic? Are you doing this to climb the ladder at your local volunteer fire department or SAR team? Is this for personal growth, or are you using this as a stepping stone for a professional school?

No matter your reasoning, the experience and education you gain will be priceless. If you have experience or responses – sound off in the comments section.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/should-you-become-an-emt-for-prepper-medical-training/feed/3Basic Needle and Thread Skills for Emergency Repairshttps://www.shtfblog.com/basic-needle-thread-skills-emergency-repairs/
https://www.shtfblog.com/basic-needle-thread-skills-emergency-repairs/#respondThu, 28 May 2020 13:24:52 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20739I don’t know about you, but I always get a laugh out of those dystopian stories where survivors are dirty and ragged just a month after whatever cataclysmic event occurred. I can understand being a bit worse for wear if water for bathing and clothing washing is scarce but ragged?…

]]>I don’t know about you, but I always get a laugh out of those dystopian stories where survivors are dirty and ragged just a month after whatever cataclysmic event occurred. I can understand being a bit worse for wear if water for bathing and clothing washing is scarce but ragged? Really, does no one know how to use a needle and thread anymore?

And that’s what we are going to discuss in this post, how to use a needle and thread to do basic repairs to your clothing. Not only is this a skill that will come in handy after an SHTF situation, but hand stitching can make your clothes last longer in normal instances, creating a greater sense of self-reliance and saving you money. And in today’s COVID-19 world, you might even find yourself looking at cloth mask effectiveness for a pandemic.

You don’t need to set out to learn all of these skills today for a potential post-SHTF situation, but at least being aware of the necessary supplies and types of stitches should get you set up for extending the life of your clothes. In fact, I would advise you print this post off and stash it with an emergency sewing kit in your stockpile of preps!

What to Keep in Your Sewing Kit

First, let’s talk about what very basic supplies you should have on hand. There’s no need to rush out and buy everything to become a professional seamstress, but buying a very basic sewing kit will go a long way and pay for itself many times over if used for repairs. They don’t take up much space and can fit within even a compact survival kit.

If you choose to make your own kit, you’ll need the following items.

Needles and Pins

In order to sew, you’ll need needles. They come in a variety of lengths and sharpnesses. You’ll want what are known as “sharps” needles. Sizes 2,3, and 4 are best for medium to heavy fabrics while sizes 5-10 are fine for light to medium fabrics.

If you have leather, heavy canvas, or suede items in need of repair, it’s best to invest in a leather stitching needle. Other types won’t be up to the task, and you’ll want that leather jacket functioning if you’re to become the next Mad Max of the post-apocalyptic world!

Although not essential, a needle threader will save you time and effort. Threading a needle isn’t as easy as it looks, and this nifty little device will substantially cut down on the frustration level.

You’ll also need a set of straight pins to hold the pieces of fabric together while you stitch. I prefer pins with a larger round head so I can keep track of the pins better, but it’s not really necessary. Again, these sewing notions come in a variety of lengths. Longer pins are usually thicker and work better for heavier fabrics. Seamstress or dressmaker pins are fine for light to medium fabrics.

You should also have a pincushion of some sort to keep all your pins and needles in one place. You can find simple instructions on the internet on how to make your own. You could also use a small box with a magnetic in it for storage as well.

Thread

You don’t need 60 spools of thread to do simple repairs. A spool of polyester or all-purpose thread in black and another in white might be all you require. If you prefer that the repair isn’t as noticeable, by all means, get a spool of thread that matches the garment.

Scissors and Seam Ripper

You might be able to get by with a pair of kitchen scissors, but having certain types of shears for sewing can make things easier. Dressmaker shears are great if you are cutting large swathes of fabric. A pair of small but sharp scissors like embroidery scissors are best for snipping threads. Pinking shears cut in the fabric in a zigzag which keeps the ends from fraying.

A seam ripper is also a helpful mending tool. Sometimes you’ll need to take the old stitches out to replace them with a new line. Using a seam ripper will reduce the tension on the fabric and help keep it from tearing as you remove the thread.

Sewing Tape Measure

A sewing tape measure is useful not only in making sure a hem is straight, but measuring for inseams and other body parts because it is made of flexible plastic. You can use a fixed ruler or construction tape measure in a pinch, but your results won’t be as accurate.

Basic Sewing

Now that you have the basic materials, let’s talk about how to do some basic repairs.

How to Thread a Needle

Before you even attempt to thread a needle, take a look at the end of the thread. If it is frayed or uneven, snip it clean.

Hold the thread between your thumb and index finger near the very end.

Push the eye of the needle onto the thread rather than trying to get the thread through the needle’s eye.

Once it’s through, pull it so that it’s the amount of thread you think you’ll need for the repair.

How to Thread a Needle with a Needle Threader

Snip the end of the thread so that there is no fraying or unraveling.

Slide the needle threader into the needle’s eye. Now you’ll have a large area to aim for.

Next, pinch the thread between your thumb and index finger. Bring the needle threader towards the thread and push it through.

Now, pull the needle threader back through the eye of the needle and the thread will follow.

How to Knot the Thread

You need to knot the end of your thread length, otherwise, you’ll pull the thread all the way through the fabric and no mending will be done. An unknotted finished stitch will also come undone.

Before Mending

First, cut off the length of thread you think you’ll need, making a double strand of thread after the needle has been threaded.

Next, wrap the ends around your finger several times.

Finally, roll your finger out of the circle of thread and pull the knot tight.

After Mending

Leave enough thread after the repairs are made to tie off, between two and three inches.

Loop the thread with the needle to make the knot, keeping your finger on the thread where you want the knot to be.

Pull the knot tighter, using your finger to position the knot as you pull.

Snip the excess thread.

Basic Stitches

The following are simple stitches that are useful for basic clothing repair.

Running Stitch

Start from the underside of your fabric, so that the knot is not noticeable.

If you are making a seam, you can fold the material like a fan so that the stitches and gaps between the stitches are roughly the same size. Larger stitches are looser and may catch on things and rip, so try to keep the stitches somewhat small.

Run your needle through the folds and pull it through.

To finish off the stitch, make a small backward stitch and run the needle through the loop before tightening. For a stronger knot, repeat this several times.

Backstitch

The backstitch can be used when the mending is visible. It’s neat and simple.

Start from underneath and make a stitch.

Now come up again the same length as your first stitch.

Stitch back, inserting the needle in the same hole that you came up in.

Whip Stitch

Whip stitches are great for holes or seams.

Start by making sure the knot of your thread is between the two layers you are sewing together so it won’t be seen.

Go over the top of the seam with your stitch.

Continue the over-and-under-stitching with the stitches running parallel to each other.

Knot off between the two sides of the fabric.

How to Sew on a Button

Begin with a double threaded needle with about 12 inches of thread (24 inches in total).

Knot the thread.

Starting from the back, make an X with the thread where the button will go. If you look carefully, you can typically see small holes where the button threads were before. Aim to get the X in the same place so that the button will line up with its buttonhole when you are done.

Position the button.

Coming up from the back, push the needle through one of the holes. Pull the thread through all the way, keeping your finger on the button.

Turn the needle around and push it through the opposite hole.

Come up through another hole and repeat the process at least 6 times.

When you are ready to tie off, come up from the back as if you are going to go through the hole again, but instead come up underneath the button.

Wrap the thread several times around the threads at the base of the button, underneath it.

Push the needle back through the fabric and tie off the thread.

How to Hem

Hemming is a useful skill. Not only can you alter your own clothes so that they fit better, but you can repair ragged hems so that your garments last longer.

Begin by taking your pinking shears to even up the hem. The pinking process also reduces fabric fraying.

Next, fold up the hem and fold it up a second time so that the bottom edge is neat and even, hiding the raw edge.

Use straight pins to hold the folds in place.

Use your tape measure to make sure the hem is even, adjust as necessary.

Start your needle between the two layers of fabric so the knot isn’t as noticeable. You can use the whip stitch or a running stitch for hemming.

Knot off the thread and remove the straight pins.

General Tips

Remember to turn your garment inside out and do the mending from the inside for less stitch visibility.

If you want to hide the repair even more, use color matching thread or invisible thread. Invisible thread is more difficult to work with, but the stitches are not noticeable.

Remember to cut off any loose threads to keep them from getting caught and ripping.

When you have a jagged edge, use pinking shears to make an edge that won’t fray as much.

Fold under the jagged edges of the material before stitching to make a neater repair.

]]>https://www.shtfblog.com/basic-needle-thread-skills-emergency-repairs/feed/0Ensuring Safety: When is it Time to Change Personal Body Armor?https://www.shtfblog.com/when-is-it-time-to-change-personal-body-armor/
https://www.shtfblog.com/when-is-it-time-to-change-personal-body-armor/#respondWed, 27 May 2020 14:57:41 +0000https://www.shtfblog.com/?p=20782Since body armor is life-saving gear, if you are going to wear it, you cannot neglect its quality and performance. This doesn’t just apply to law enforcement officers who use it as a part of their duty. Anyone using it even occasionally need to be equally watchful about the integrity…

]]>Since body armor is life-saving gear, if you are going to wear it, you cannot neglect its quality and performance. This doesn’t just apply to law enforcement officers who use it as a part of their duty. Anyone using it even occasionally need to be equally watchful about the integrity of this essential piece of survival gear. While you need to be very sure about buying a product that has a manufacturer warranty for its ballistic performance, going the extra mile to assess its condition from time to time makes sense.

What are Body Armor Warranties?

Essentially, the warranty is meant to indicate the specific period of ballistic performance of the protective vest or plates. But – and this is important – the actual performance of each individual piece depends on how you use, store, and maintain it. The kind of environmental exposure it gets also plays a factor.

Although there is no one-size-fits-all rule for replacement of body armor, there are still some things that you need to consider for deciding when it is time to replace or upgrade your armor. And surely, this is something you shouldn’t compromise with because personal safety is at stake. Let us highlight the fact to be borne in mind for body armor replacement.

Expiration Dates and Manufacturer Warranties

Body armor has come a long way since the Medieval period where soldiers wore heavy suits of metal armor. Today’s armor may not hold up as long, but it’s also much easier to wear.

All modern armor panels used in bulletproof vests and protective gear have a label showing the expiration date. As a smart buyer, you should check the date and ensure that you switch to a new vest before the expiry. If you check body armor news blog, you will find that most of the products come with the expiration date of five years. But there may be deviations for different brands.

Similarly, you also need to see the manufacturers’ warranty of the armor. However, sticking to the dates is surely not a sensible approach if the actual condition of the piece isn’t good enough. Regular inspection of the armor, therefore, is vital. While law enforcement should be vigilant about the condition of the armor at all times, people who carry it on hunting trips should conduct a stringent check before every excursion.

Change in Body Weight and Shape Warrants Replacement

Haven’t been following the Navy SEAL physical fitness guide and you’ve put on excess weight? Or maybe you have and you’ve slimmed down and packed on muscle. Either way, body changes mean changes to body armor fit.

Bulletproof vests are meant to fit perfectly in order to offer the level of protection you expect them to. When you gain or lose weight, it can actually decrease the level of protection and the lifespan of the body armor as well. If you lose too much weight, the ballistic panels experience excessive stress as they are able to move inside of the carrier rather than be a snug fit against the body.

Pfc. Joe Piotrowski, with the 6th Iraqi Army Division Military Transition Team, 4th Infantry Division, dons his Improved Outer Tactical Vest on March 14 before a mission in Baghdad. He said the new vest is more comfortable than the Interceptor Body Armor and has a better carrying system for his equipment. Photo by Spc. Aaron Rosencrans. Taken in 2008.

Conversely, excess weight gain can lead to the vest creasing and damaging the ballistic panels. Excess weight can also cause parts of the body to become unprotected. So you will certainly have to substitute quickly if there is a change in your weight and body shape. It is important to wear a good fit and make the requisite adjustments ensure that it works as well as it possibly can.

Usage of Body Armor Makes all the Difference

Another factor that determines the average replacement period for body armor is usage – how often you use it, the purpose it is used for, and the kind of threats it has to bear. According to experts at Engarde Body Armor, the quality of the carrier and ballistic panel makes all the difference. But obviously, an officer’s vest will have to be replaced earlier than that for someone who wears it occasionally for personal safety reasons. The reason is evident – heavy usage causes wear and tear at a more rapid pace.

While a ballistic panel should be replaced immediately after being shot, a visual check of the panel cover is also recommended on a regular basis. Check for tears, cuts and sealing issues and excessive wear as well. All of these could expose the ballistic material to moisture and other degrading factors. Soft armor panels come with a waterproof cover which safeguards the ballistic material within the cover from moisture. Moisture can severely impair the ballistic performance of the panel and can cause degradation as well.

Body Armor Maintenance and Storage is Vital

The longevity of body armor greatly depends on how well you maintain and store it over time. Maintaining and storing in accordance with the instructions on the manufacturer’s manual is the key to prolonging its use. Regular cleaning of the carrier is a must while the interior should be protected from direct contact with sunlight and liquids.

For storage, you need to choose a place where the vest can rest in a flat position. Hanging the vest or storing it in a drawer is a bad idea because it will affect the integrity of the garment over a period of time. Once again, regular inspection of the ballistic panel covers makes sense even if you do not use it frequently. Carriers that rub the panel covers due to normal flexing can wear through the cover and expose the armor to moisture penetration, so being extra careful is important while you wear or store the vest.

Condition of the Carrier Requires Attention as Well

It is to be noted that the carrier may also become damaged over time. Replacing a carrier on a regular basis is important because they have an optimal lifespan as well. If it doesn’t fit well, the straps appear to be stretched or the Velcro doesn’t seem to be working properly, it is time to switch. The carrier deserves careful attention because the protection level of the body armor may be affected if you wear a damaged carrier. Regular inspection of the carrier should be, therefore, be a part of your body armor assessment and maintenance routine.

Why Shouldn’t You Wear Expired or Damaged Body Armor?

Wearing expired or damaged body armor is better than having no protection at all because it would probably provide some protection against deadly force. Though it may not be penetrable, the internal components are susceptible to warping, cracking, or denting, which can cause serious bodily harm. Since it can make the difference between life and death, this is something you should compromise with.

It is to be noted that soft armor deteriorates faster than the hard counterpart and is particularly vulnerable to moisture and heat. If it happens to get completely saturated with water, you must replace it immediately.

When it comes to protecting with body armor, you should be safe rather than sorry because you may not get a second chance. Today’s body armor may not be the equivalent of Mandalorian armor, but it’s come a long way from the past.