A new issue of the Sew News magazine is published, along with a new Pattern Play article in which I write about the plaid skirt. A basic skirt at a first glance has a really interesting bias inserts on the waist and has bias pleat gussets.

You can download a pattern for the named skirt in size 40 from the Download tab of the blog.

When I first joined the BurdaStyle community I had difficulties expressing my thoughts in English - not because my English was bad (at least I hope that was the case!), but because I was completely unfamiliar with sewing-related terminology. I had no clue how to explain simple things; words like lining, bias bands, trim, grain line, yoke, etc. were completely new to me. To tell you the truth, I don't know Serbian names for many of these terms, since I learned everything by myself, and I had no one to name the techniques or notions I used. I've been absorbing all the information I could find about sewing, and many texts I read were in English. I think I've learned enough to explain the process clearly and correctly (at least, when it comes to terminology) and now I find it easier to express myself in English than in my native Serbian (for example, I'm writing this very post first in English, and I'll translate it to Serbian later).

I've met many ex-YU sewists who speak English, but they find it difficult to read and write instructions in that language. Hence, I've come to an idea to make a small Serbian - English (or vice versa) sewing dictionary. I guess such dictionary would be helpful only to the ex-YU readers, but it would be great if everyone would help with listing sewing words in either language. This would help me gather all the terms in one place, since I can't think of them all. If you're willing to help, post all phrases, terms, notions, fabrics, etc. in comments section or send me an email. Once I make the dictionary, I'll post it on the Download page of the blog, in PDF file format.

Dear readers, the blog is currently going through its makeover process, don't get too surprised if you notice some problems trying to access it. Hopefully, everything's gonna be set very soon! Štepalica has a new look now, thanks to my dear friend who worked on the design.

I mentioned before the Burda Style Book, that I sewed a blouse for. The book will introduce 5 brand new Burda Style patterns (for a dress, a coat, a blouse, a skirt and a bag), along with 60 variations on the named patterns, made by the website members. I was very honored by the invitation to participate in making the book, and I was really proud to be among 60 talented people from around the world.

The procedure we've been through was very interesting. All the participants answered the query which determined the participants' sewing preferences and allowed us to express our wishes regarding the pattern we wanted to use (an interesting detail was that at the time we didn't know how the original models looked like!).

After that, every participant received sketches of one or two models from the named list, that were used as a basis for further variation. My task was to design a blouse and a coat, so I drew 5 variations of the named models. The idea was to use an existing model as a basis, while making some alterations to it so that the variation is not an identical copy of the original. Along with every sketch, we were supposed to add a short description of the altered model, and to give a suggestion on the fabric that should be used for sewing. To my surprise, one of the blouse sketches was chosen for the book, while I preferred the ones for the coat.

The next step was the most interesting one: every participant got a pattern and a package with fabric chosen by Burda Style team, and the sewing could start. The blouse I sewed was a slight alteration of the original pattern, however some of the participants made major alterations on their models, and they had to photograph and describe each step in order to make tutorials that will be published in the book.

I have to admit that I never liked sewing by order, and this part of the process pushed me under pressure, causing a slight panic from time to time. Luckily, everything went well, and the blouse was sewed in time. Due to euphoria I was in at the time, I forgot to take pictures of the blouse. Hence, I'll have to wait for the book to be published in order to see the blouse again.

The book publishing is scheduled for November 1st 2011, and here's how the cover page will look. I'm not gonna reveal to you which blouse is mine, before the book is published. Burda Style will make a celebration party in New York during the first week of November, and I intend to be there.

If you're in journalism business, or if you know someone who would like to make a story about this event, contact me and I'll provide the press pass for the party.

I've read on some blog recently (forgot which one it was) a post about favorite patterns and how much the sewists use them. One of the questions was whether every sewist had his/her favorite pattern and whether he/she had used it more than once.

I'd say I have a few favorite patterns that I use and exploit unmercifully and alter them until they're unrecognizable, so that every new garment I make using them looks different. A great example is the blouse pattern from BWOF 1/2008, #108. I didn't think this pattern would have numerous lives and countless incarnations when I first saw it. The first blouse I made using it is no longer in my possession, but it apparently started a flow if ideas, that still keep coming. The picture above displays 10 of many more blouses I made using the named pattern. The blouses displayed on the bottom were made for my mom (you can see on the bottom left corner that we have identical blouses, the only difference is in their sizes).

The question is - why do I stubbornly alter the pattern every time, instead of tracing a new, already prepared pattern from the magazine? Because I find it far more easier to alter the tried and trued pattern a bit than to go through the whole process of fitting and truing the model, in order to get a detail I could have made myself. Pattern manipulation give numerous options and makes the whole process much easier.

For example, the pinkish shirt from the picture (top right corner) was inspired by a shirt I saw in the Italian magazine La Mia Boutique. I traced the blouse pattern but was rather skeptical, so I compared it with the BWOF pattern. The pattern differences were more than obvious. I realized then that I could have made the gathers under the bust myself - the detail that appealed to me in the first place. The rest of the blouse - the back, shoulder seams placement, waist circumference, length, etc. - stayed unchanged, meaning that I knew exactly how the finished blouse would suit me. The trust I have in the tried and trued pattern is essential for quick and efficient sewing.

I was very busy last week, making 3 new garments! This time I'll show you a blouse and a skirt, that I made as an outfit.

The blouse is a variation on the BWOF 1/2008, #108 pattern. It's made of gorgeous viscose with tiny black polkadots. The pattern is altered, as you might have notices - I changed the front panel, by making an oblique stitch across the bust. Also, I gathered a bit the top panel. The sleeves have been changed a bit, too.

The skirt's made of soft linen, combined with organza bands. The pattern comes from BWOF 2/2007, #110. The transparent bands give the skirt a special charm, that I liked more than expected.

I have to admit that the inspiration for the skirt comes from Claudine, who has the most courageous, funky and creative ideas for her creations. Her aesthetics is very specific, it's a bit eccentric and very original, which I like a lot. You can see the very models that inspired me here, here and here.