National Ferry Fortnight: Go Green on Spain's other Costa

Spain reigns supreme as the most popular holiday destination for the British. Most of us who have been there think we know the country. But, in truth, we probably know only its Mediterranean holiday coast - the costas with their concrete hotel strips, clubs, bars and cafes that serve all-day, full English breakfasts.

Northern Spain - Green Spain, as it is known - is a completely different proposition.

Arriving with Brittany Ferries as you sail into Santander, your first glimpse of mountains suggests something dramatic. The range that dominates Northern Spain, the amazing Picos de Europa, has some of the tallest peaks in Europe and even in summer the highest are dusted with snow.

Elegant: The affluent have always escaped the city for resorts on the north coast such as San Sebastian

Their wildness has ensured that many of the remote mountain valleys remain the preserve of extraordinary wildlife. Bears and wolves are said to still roam here, while eagles circle above slumbering valleys. As you approach the port of Santander you sail past the main beach area of the town and you'll be amazed to see this is a traditional, British-style resort with 19th Century hotels and apartments that reflect its privileged history.

With Madrid broiling in summer heat (the Spanish capital freezes in winter and bakes in summer), the affluent and the aristocratic have always escaped the city for the north coast, choosing resorts such as Santander and San Sebastian - a short drive along the coast towards the French border - to 'chill' in high season. And while there is little on the costas that seems typically Spanish, in northern Spain you will be overwhelmed by local life, whether it's the distinctive cuisine, its art (nearby Bilbao boasts the fabulous Guggenheim museum) or its array of charming holiday places.

Santander is just a 24-hour ferry ride from the UK but in many ways it's a world apart for holidaymakers. The fine old port provides a gateway to rich pleasures.

Liquid refreshment: A cider house in Asturias

Nearby at Altamira, for instance, you will discover ancient cave paintings as fabulous as those at the more famous Lascaux in France; there are stunning cathedrals (Leon's, for example, is a true Gothic masterpiece); and wonderful old towns packed with great places to shop, fine restaurants and splendid hotels (check out the justly famous Spanish paradors, buildings of historic or architectural interest that have been converted into delightful accommodation).

If you are arriving in Santander with your car, you'll quickly discover that northern Spain is perfect for a driving holiday.

Thanks to a substantial European-funded highways programme, there are fast roads that can take you rapidly east or west from Santander.

This leaves the smaller roads, particularly those leading up into the mountains or on the coast, as a rich source of pleasure for those in search of unforgettable scenery. Here, away from the beaten track, you will discover 'Real Spain'.

This is a place that prides itself on its agriculture and delicious local produce offering a cuisine with its own style of fantastic fish and scrumptious bean stews.

Then you have the famous Cabrales cheese, superb cider and brilliant wines: try the albarifio, reckoned by many to be Spain's most elegant white grape that produces one of the world's finest white wines.

The only real problem about taking a holiday in Northern Spain is deciding where to go. For the first-time visitor, it makes sense to concentrate on the area within an hour or two's drive of Santander.

The provinces of Cantabria and A s t u r i a s together form a large part of 'Green Spain'. You'll enjoy experiencing a region so far removed from the frenetic activity of Spain's southern resorts. This is traditional, still largely undiscovered Spain where countryside and coast combine to reward visitors with a truly unforgettable experience.

The two regions share a coastline of about 200 miles, along which you'll encounter any number of colourful fishing villages and gorgeous sandy beaches blissfully free of crowds.

The major holiday resorts along this coastal stretch, stylish Santander and historical Gijon, between them provide just about everything a holidaymaker could desire, from sporting facilities, nightlife and entertainment galore, to fine dining and a rich cultural heritage.

Dramatic: The impressive Picos de Europa mountain range has some of the tallest peaks in Europe

Venture just a few miles inland from almost any point along the coast and you'll quickly find yourself among some of the most spectacularly beautiful countryside imaginable.

Lush green valleys and forests, sleepy villages that have changed little in centuries and majestic mountains rising to more than 8,000ft combine to produce a landscape that will take your breath away.

There are numerous activities such as fishing, horse riding, climbing, skiing and white-water rafting.

And getting to Spain by ferry is a pleasure in itself with the journey really part of the holiday.

The ferry is more like a modern cruise ship that carries cars rather than anything that you may have come to know as a typical cross-Channel ferry. It boasts fully equipped cabins, piano bars, finedining restaurants and cinemas where you can comfortably while away the journey, knowing that you'll soon be in one of Europe's best-kept secret regions.

Getting there

Brittany Ferries has four crossings a week from the UK to Santander - three from Portsmouth (24 hours) and one from Plymouth (20 hours) using the Pont Aven and Cap Finist&egrave;re, both of which have a pool, cinemas, choice of bars, entertainment, restaurants, cabins with en suite facilities, and kennels for pets. Return fares start at &pound;450 for a car plus two, including cabin with en suite facilities. It also has a wide range of ferry-inclusive holidays (0871 244 1400, www.brittanyferries.co.uk).