Details of install of new sump pit and pump

Re: Details of install of new sump pit and pump
Greetings,
This is an ongoing saga ... I'm getting closer and closer ... :-)
I inhabit a small brick bungalow, built in 1954, poured-concrete
foundation, about 800 square feet. Perhaps twice a year we
get hard/fast rains (i.e. 3" in 12 hours) which cause a
hydrostatic water problem in the basement. The water "pushes
up" from underneath the basement floor.
I need to specify/install both a sump pit and a sump pump. I am
modestly competent (not expert) at such DIY projects.
The sump pit will be about 24" in diameter and about
26" deep. I will place the edge of the pit about 15"
from a wall. I've drilled 2 holes thru the basement
floor: it appears to be (surprisingly) only about 2"
thick. I currently *hope* to be able to cut the hole
with a 'diamond' blade on a standard-duty circular
saw.
I'd love to be able to bevel-cut a square hole so
the bevels would support the pad (with the sump basin
in the middle) I'm going to pour. Not practical?
What kind/grade of concrete should I use? I *hope*
to be able to walk on the .5+ " (thick) lid that I will cut.
Strength and adherence are the highest priorities.
What should I backfill with and where can I commonly
get it? "Crushed stone"? Gravel? From Home Depot or ?
The basin tapers from 22" diameter at the top to about
16" at the bottom, and is 23" hi. I'm thinking of
drilling 3 rows of .5" holes starting about 1" above
the top of the pump. I have some waterproof wood
glue that _might_ be suitable for gluing fine nylon
mesh outside the holes (to keep larger particles out).
Other suggestions are welcome.
I'm looking at a 1/3 hp Flotec submersible pump with
a vertical-float switch (instead of "the ball"),
and an in-line Flotec hose-type check valve. I've
heard the hose-type connection reduces vibrations.
Right next to what will be the sump pit is a washing
machine, discharge from which is routed to a floor
drain with 1.5 " PVC. I hope to integrate the discharge
from the pump (this conforms to local code). Any
reason not to do this?
I am still uncomfortable re mounting of the pump. Folks
say put 3" of gravel or a couple bricks in the bottom
of the sump basin and rest the pump on top of that.
I need to be able to remove the pump easily for maintenance
/repair. Should I just cut the PVC coming out of the basin
and use a small hose section and clamps to make it
removable? Are there issues with stability, vibration,
etc??
Any/all info/suggestions are welcome.
Muchas Gracias,
Puddin'

I too had the same problem you describe. My basement floor was poured in
two sections with a cold joint running the length of the basement, about
24'. I live in a river bottom at the edge of a slough that fills with water
when we have high river stages. Occasionally the water gets so high as to
put pressure on the basement floor and leaks in through the cold joint.
I put a 16"diameter X 24" deep sump at one end of the cold joint in my
utility room. I actually cut about a 30"+ hole and probably that deep so I
could put some concrete in the bottom to hold the sump level and to get the
correct height for a sloped edge from the floor level to the opening of the
sump. The sump has 4 2" close pipe nipples welded evenly spaced around the
top of the sump with 90 deg. elbows and short nipples pointing straight down
on the outside. I poured and packed the area around the sump with washed
pea gravel then concreted the top in a slope as mentioned above. On the
inside of the sump I used 2" union halves and used stainless steel mesh cut
to fit inside the union nut with a home made rubber washer on each side of
the mesh to hold it in nicely. The mesh is to keep debris out of the sump
if any ever gets through the pea gravel. The water has only been up high
enough to put water in the sump twice since I installed it. Water runs into
the sump via the four penetrations and relieves the pressure on the floor.
Both times, the floor remained dry. I just use a run of the mill
submersible sump pump and discharge it to the floor drain. Hope this helps.

HD does sell a poly sump well for just this purpose. You would cut (or
sledgehammer) a hole in the concrete, dig the sump hole and set the poly
sump in. It looks like a big black bucket with holes in it for the water
to seep in.
I'm a little cheap so I just use a 5 gal white poly bucket and drill my
own holes in it, usually about 50 - 1/4" holes.
Once the sump is in the hole, fill around with pea or washed crushed
gravel and patch the floor with cement up to the rim of the sump. The
ready made ones come with a lid too.
I hope that was what you were talking about :-)
Rob S.
Puddin' Man wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 15:30:22 -0500, Rob S
I got a HD no-name for $20, maybe 22 gal. It is a little flimsy. After
I dug the pit, they got some Flotec basins in. A bit
smaller but more substantial, same price. I had to use
the no-name because of differing size. The top is not
quite level because of the flimsiness.

The lid I saw was -extremely- flimsy. I need to walk on the thing,
so I cut a lid from particle board which will get several coats of
floor paint. Had trouble finding the right thickness.
Everything is in but a little PVC. The conny-crete is curing as I
type. The pump bench-tests. Etc.
Much thanks to everyone for your help.
Cheers,
Puddin'

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