If you have a large barbecue pit, a few assistants, and an urge for the ultimate challenge, you should tackle a
whole hog. This was the original barbecue meat of the South, and it's still the first choice of many prominent
pitmasters. Among all the experts, no one does a better job than Jim Quessenberry, founder and leader of the
Arkansas Trav'lers barbecue team. We had the honor of cooking with the Trav'lers one year at the Memphis
in May World Championship Barbecue Contest, where Jim taught us his techniques.

As Quessenberry says, "The most important factor in whole hog is in fact the hog, himself." Bribe your
butcher for the best animal in the area. Jim gets his hogs from a Mennonite farmer in Tennessee who custom
raises them on corn for a firm white meat that's as mild as turkey. The butcher should gut the hog, skin it, and
trim the outside fat to a 1/4-inch thickness.

Ingredients:

One full-grown hog, 120 to 150 pounds, skinned and trimmed

Southern Succor Rub (need 10 to 15 cups):

3 cups ground black pepper

3 cups paprika

3 cups turbinado sugar *

1 1/2 cup salt

8 tablespoons dry mustard

4 tablespoons cayenne

*A coarsely granulated raw sugar which has a light molasses flavor and doesn't break
down under barbecuing temperatures to the same extent as other sugars. You can
find it at natural food stores or order it by writing:
206 E. Merriman
Wynne, AK 72396
or call, 501-588-4442

Quessenberry's Quintessential Hog Mop:

3 quarts cider vinegar

1 1/2 quarts water

3/4 cup salt

Vaunted Vinegar Sauce (optional):

2 cups cider or white vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar or brown sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne or hot red pepper flakes

1. Fire up the pit, preferably with a combination of hickory and oak, and bring it to a temperature of 250 degrees F.

2. Rub the hog thoroughly with Southern Succor Rub and lift onto the pit, belly side down. If the pit has an
offset firebox, position the head facing away from the fire and cover the hams loosely with aluminum foil.
Every hour or so, sprinkle on more dry spices or mop the meat with the vinegar mixture, alternating between
the two applications.

3. Maintain a steady cooking temperature of 200 degrees F to 250 degrees F for 18 to 20 hours, or until the internal temperature
of the meat is 165 degree F to 170 degree F.

4. While the fire dies, allow the hog to sit in the pit for several hours before carving. Serve accompanied by
Vaunted Vinegar Sauce, if you wish.