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Description

Plenty of sideways movement on greasy holds makes this one of the toughest 5.9's in the bay area. Also, it is a tid-bit run out, so its not a good lead unless you're comfortable on at least .10 i'd say.The route is located opposite of the ocean, so it doesn't depend on the tide.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Presently, the only established way to the top of rock.

Just lead this route yesterday because i figured it would be a good top-rope for my less experienced friends who tagged along. The lead was a little nerve racking up to the first bolt and the whole climb seemed a little technical for 5.9 climbing. Overall it was a fun and interesting climb. There are many different ways to climb the route and it was fun to see everyones different interpretations of the holds and moves!
Jan 21, 2013

This was a difficult 5.9 at best. I think the scariest aspect is that the first bolt is about 12-14 feet up but the ground falls away to the right making a fall very perilous. The hand holds were not so easy to find as were the footholds, especially at the bottom. More than once, I had to do a double take to figure out where I was going. After the first bolt, the route became more fingery and I migrated to the right side to get over the top. Don't worry about locking beaners or super tech gear, the route is too short, just a couple of quick draws and a strong partner to spot you at the base....
Mar 1, 2004

I thought that this would be a fun way to end the day and thought I would cruise it. I found it very tiring and not obvious. It was fun but definitely a challenge. I'm glad others found this to be a tough 9 also!
May 12, 2003