Spoilerons

Thank you all for your comments and help. I am beginning to understand the difference between the flaps (going down) and spoilerons (going up), and I will take my time to learn how the Bix flies first.

Just for coureosity, can flaps and spoilerons be programed at the same time? I'm thinking that perhaps using spoilerons to get down faster, then flaps for a slower landing. Would that work or is it overkill?

Thank you all for your comments and help. I am beginning to understand the difference between the flaps (going down) and spoilerons (going up), and I will take my time to learn how the Bix flies first.

Just for coureosity, can flaps and spoilerons be programed at the same time? I'm thinking that perhaps using spoilerons to get down faster, then flaps for a slower landing. Would that work or is it overkill?

Depending on your transmitter, it is possible and straight forward to program both. But I doubt if you'll really need it. If you don't load your Bixler with a very heavy battery pack, it will fly nice and slow. Bring it into the wind nose first when landing, flare it out, and landing speed will be very slow.

Getting the approach just right (height, speed, direction) is much more important than the ability to apply spoilers or flaps

I find spoilerons more useful than flaps, as I often fly from areas with very restricted space, and I need to bring the plane down in a steep angle.

But if you like experimenting, go ahead and try it. That is also an aspect of our hobby that many people (my self included) enjoy almost as much as the actual flying. I have tried many well working mods only once or twice before they had to give way for another mod

You don't have to use a programmable the Tx for flaperons. A mixer running off the Rx would allow you to use two channels, ailerons as usual and dropping (or raising) both ailerons together on the other channel.

Adding flaps or spoilers to the V1.1 could be done with these inboard of the ailerons and simply taped on acting like split flaps. Tape the servos on too. Doesn't work? Rip the tape off and go back to standard.

NOTE - with this system and usually the servos lying in opposite directions you will need to rewire one servo to reverse it.

...Tape the servos on too. Doesn't work? Rip the tape off and go back to standard.

NOTE - with this system and usually the servos lying in opposite directions you will need to rewire one servo to reverse it...

Well, if you are taping the servos in place, why not put them in the same orientation? Then you can skip the soldering/re-wiring job.

If the mod turns out to be a must have, you can cut recess holes in the wing foam for the servos, either in the same orientation or symmetrical and re-wire the servo.

When I add aileron servos to my stock (non-aileron) EasyStar wings, I embed the servos vertically, protruding on the top side of the wing (out of harms way) and I can invert the direction by rotating servo arm to the opposite side:Note/edit: In the picture, the servo arm is off-set by app 30 degrees CW to provide mechanical, differential aileron throw (more up than down to prevent adverse yaw). For a flaperon function, no mechanical offset, but rather a mixed/programmed off-set should be used

I just ordered the Bixler 1.1 kit! My question is what length servo Y splitter is needed for the wing servos?

Very long if you don't put extenders on the servo leads. The kit comes with (as far as I remember) a short Y. So, if you haven't ordered extender wires you have choices. Order extender or order longest Y possible or find suitable wire and splice that in to extend the servo leads. I did the later as I had suitable wire handy and used the short Y provided.

Sometimes old (really old?) TVs have bundles of thin wire. An old computer using the ATA disk ribbons and split off in bundles of 3. They should peel apart easily. Do order a good range of heatshrink tubing and a 25 watt soldering iron with not too fine a tip. Use lead solder, forget this "organic", clean planet rubbish, LEAD solders easily and does a good join - and I'm still alive after years of using lead (60:40) solder!!!!

Laying the servos the same way for flaps, yes, I did say the option was to rewire ("and usually the servos lying in opposite directions"). However, especially as the suggested was just for trial, lay them the same way as Mike_O said.

Very long if you don't put extenders on the servo leads. The kit comes with (as far as I remember) a short Y. So, if you haven't ordered extender wires you have choices. Order extender or order longest Y possible or find suitable wire and splice that in to extend the servo leads. I did the later as I had suitable wire handy and used the short Y provided.

Sometimes old (really old?) TVs have bundles of thin wire. An old computer using the ATA disk ribbons and split off in bundles of 3. They should peel apart easily. Do order a good range of heatshrink tubing and a 25 watt soldering iron with not too fine a tip. Use lead solder, forget this "organic", clean planet rubbish, LEAD solders easily and does a good join - and I'm still alive after years of using lead (60:40) solder!!!!

Laying the servos the same way for flaps, yes, I did say the option was to rewire ("and usually the servos lying in opposite directions"). However, especially as the suggested was just for trial, lay them the same way as Mike_O said.

Just checked, with a servo lying on the wing, 30 cm is a good length. Get 4, 2 for the rudder and elevator servos too. It makes connecting them to the Rx so much easier.

Also get a plug for the ESC (XT60) and pins (3.5mm), male and female to connect the motor to the ESC. Also you will need to extend the wires from ESC to motor unless you mount the ESC up near the motor in which case you need to extend the leads to the battery and Rx (servo type lead).

Nothing is quite straight forward with the ARF or kit - but then that's the fun of it...

I just ordered the bixler 1.1 kit! My question is what length servo y splitter is needed for the wing servos?

It is 13.5 in. from edge of servo box, to the center of the fuse. Just solder the extra length you need to your servo wires. Easy and neat, with or w/o a Y lead. Use al'rn. and aux. channels for flaperons.............
b.b.4

After having the servos installed in the provided slots, it was brought to my attention i should move them back to tha tail to help with the forward cg.
So when doing so, i was cutting the Z bends so i could pull the rod out the end.and snipped my Dragon link antenna... whlie i was working out the second servo, i felt something hit my foot, looked down and JAW DROPED//plus a few choice words. lol... i see a 5'' peice of calbe/heat shrink..i was hoping it was heat shrink untill i see the nice gold SMA at the end... It was 3:30am and i was tired. Good thing i won 2 DL RX's resently and they should be on the way. So i have a 30'' and a 36'' one da way...