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was talking to my father in law and he said everytime he has been starting his truck it is leaking a mix of oil and coolant and its dripping onto the ground from the engine compartment. i havnt gone to look at it yet and will this week. hes not very mechanically inclined. i was figured if it is leaking this bad it hopefully will be easy to find but is there anything common on these trucks i should be looking at? what would leak a mix of coolant and oil other than a head gasket. and if it was a head gasket wouldnt the truck overheat? he says its not overheating and once it warms up it stops.

he has been having to service to coolant but not the oil. since he said that i was wondering if its just leaking coolant and looks like oil and coolant on the ground since its running down the dirty engine?

They usually don't even last that long. You sometimes won't even get a good look at the weep hole. You might just see coolant coming down the left (driver) side of the engine in the front and over the tube that goes back to the oil cooler. It's not a hard job at all, and you DON'T have to pull the radiator.

The oil part could be from the power steering and the coolant is just picking up some of the fluid on the way down. I say this because almost every chevy truck I have worked on has had weeping/seeping p/s lines. If ya have any more questions feel free to PM me.

Depending on where it's leaking from the oil cooler assembly (driver side rear of the motor) has oil/coolant close to each other, the other as stated above is the water pump weep hole cause the front engine cover has oil and coolant close to each other and only a shaft seal between them.

It really is an under 2 hour job. I am a diesel tech, not a parts pusher. You just need to know some of the tricks. Such as not pulling the radiator to get the crank pulley bolt off. Just put a cheater bar or good 1/2" drive or bigger ratchet against the bottom of the frame on the passenger side. (I used a 2 foot long snap on 80 tooth 1/2 drive ratchet last time.) Place a piece of wood against the radiator (bottom shroud piece helps hold the wood). And tap the starter. Breaks the bolt loose and saves you all the time and mess of having to pull the radiator. That one trick probably just saved you a good hour on the job. Everything else is easy.

i used this tool set to do my dmax water pump. i was able to remove my fan and its mount as one unit while leaving the radiator in place. its a tight fit but it came out.

Lisle LIS22100 Flywheel Locking Tool Kit For 6.6L Duramax

before i got this tool it was an 2.5-3hr job. after best i did was 1hr 45mins from pulling into the driveway till it was getting refilled with fluid. yes i did change 3-4 pumps before getting this tool so maybe i just got a touch better at doing the job.

i do not suggest sticking an pry bar of some kind between the flex plate and torque converter, i saw first hand a guy blow an hole in his converter trying to break loose the crank pulley bolt.

Maybe for you 12" cock super diesel mechanics it's a 1-2 hr job... For everybody else, it's a 4-6 hour job. Thats with regular tools. Gotta get ahold of a mega socket (I don't remember the size off hand) to take the harmonic balancer off. If you have the fan pulley wrench and the flywheel tool, they'll shave 1-2 hours off of the time I posted above.

ok so i finally got to go check this thing out and im not really sure what it is. these look like kind of a clusterfuck compared to my cummins.

all the oil lines and coolant lines and coolers look ok. i dont see any leaks. oil level is fine. doesnt look like any coolant in oil. i got under the truck and looked while he started it. it is coming right out of the flange at the clamp where the exhaust downpipe meats the rest of the exhaust. it sprays out pretty good until the truck warms up or he drives it a few blocks then it stops. the coolant is black from being in the exhaust. is this the egr cooler? any advice or help is appreciated. they dont have money to take it to a shop right now so and im not really a duramax guy. thanks

thoes turbos have coolent running in them. I cant recall how it gets there and back.I can look tommrow unless some one else knows better. the coolent to the turbo is susposto help with worm up,then when the t stat opens it rerouts the coolent.

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