Connected to an 110, located in Cuxhaven (this is in the North of Germany, facing to the North Sea), driven by a couple of expereances of life, this one got no new stamps of our very special detectives of security.

The issue startet for me, when the LT230 didn't come off the R380!
It was glued by corrosion between the stud and the upper most bore of the box!

It takes some and a 2mm thin but very long sheat of Aluminum to get these boxes apart!

How often do you change the oil of these boxes?

Do you like the dark glibber?

I hate it, because it will cause hours to get it clean!

All of the four dished washers are still on duty!

This causes no damage to the diff housing!

New to used dished washers:

I like to shim the incomming shaft instead of the colapsing bush.

So this one is needed.

Torqued by 88Nm:

Just got the preload!

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Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......

As it is the Tdi version, the bolt connecting the Low-Neutral-High linkage, cannot removed while the R380 is in position!

This caused a sharp cut to the aluminum!

The o-ring securing the shifter rod inside the shifter housing sometimes failes. So the following compartments will be full filled by ATF and at the end of it the housing starts to leak.
It's an easy way to change it. But it will take some time.

The M8 screw is originally fixed by hard to get it loose glue. At a temperatur of about 150°C it becomes easy to get it off!
I use the blue Loctite stuff to get it save and sound again.

The rolled pin on the opposit side needs some force to get it driven out! The everlasting way had to be done by hand extracting!
Refitting will be ok by pliers; the big size for tubes will do.

The plug comes out by the rod. Just use a hammer with soft surface.
The bore is straight through! Use a tool with a stop mechanism when resetting.

Reinstalled with liquid sealant.

A new shaft seal in front of the box was needed! The rear was dry as dry can be!

Both of the two are looking at each other.

The vacuum pump has to be exchanged and a hose was leaking too.

This is easy when the boxes are out!

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Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......

When turning the rear differential flange by hand whyle the shaft was off, there was something different:
It turns with a light rumbling the stairs down but after no twisting the shaft, it was like a fixed connection. A big amount of torque was necessary to move the shaft again!
The owner told me the seal had been removed the other day.

The difference between the Salisbury axle (Dana60) and the Rover axle is the collapsing bush vs. the shim!
And the spreading tool you'll need for this:

Everything inside looks quite well!
No issues all over the place.

So I got the seal out and reassembled the input shaft. Torqued by 90Nm the shaft was still not movable by hand!
But spinning when the first higher torque was overdone.
I decided to use a shim instead of the bush. Starting by 27.80mm reduced the play inside of the bearings to zero but got no relayable preload.

With a shim of 27.75mm everything was fine!

The reassambling was much way easyer than thought about.
Just do it with heavy wheights!

Don't forget the oil!!!

It wont leak either!

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Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)