IMO: Leo for tighter 300' shots on a hyzerflip AND big high anhyzers that don't fade left. Eagle for 300+ shots that need accurate placement. The fade of an Eagle, with it's wind fighting capability, makes it really reliable - once you learn the disc, you know when and where it's going to fade each time. And Star Leopards, when new, work great at line-holding (with a little bit of movement), and once broken in...which takes a while...they are great understable drivers. I carry a Star Leo and a Pro Leo. The Pro works great for hyzerflips out of the box and will eventually become an understable utility disc for shots where I have zero room to run up, but need more distance than a midrange could get me...and for rollers.

pask2155 wrote:So your suggesting probably adding an eagle and Leo to my bag and using the Leo for long high annys and the eagle for tighter 300' shots?

I suggest trying out each height variation above and below horizon left to right to s-curves for each distance in multiple wind speeds and directions. That is what everyone needs to do to really learn a disc and to evaluate their suitability and the need for a different disc or a throw to handle the weak points. With that data it is easier to pick a different disc or a complimentary disc.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

I don't have any firm opinions about general rules about that i'm going with what works for any given player in the surrounding they have so a shoot out on real holes is the acid test. It is a matter of skills too not just the equipment so the best results probably change as the skills progress. Getting statistics about which option works better for any given shot should decide the winner.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

For example a champ eagle for s curves and controlled slow hyzers and then a beat in d eagle for annys? Or shift molds and go for a Leo for annys?

Which is better?

It’s a matter of preference. Some prefer a beat-in version of their stable driver. By the time you beat a disc from stable to understable, you know it well.

Others prefer using an understable driver in durable plastic for ease of replacement.

FWIW, Eagles seem to take quite a bit of beating before becoming understable. I suggest starting with an Eagle and Leopard, and then replacing the Leopard when you have a few understable Eagles (which may take years).

Fairway drivers 280-330 174 champ eagle for s curves or tight lined shots. D eagle beat in that I randomly found on the course for annys or hyzer flips for longer annys and stalker for straight tunnel shots

Mids- buzz and meteor

PutterPro dart and challenger

Extra discs in bag for special shots- Teedevil, beat ESP nuke for hyzer flip max d, Blizzard krait and these are just because I might want to drive far with them. Lol

This took 3 strokes off my game this past week and would have been more if it wasnt so windy

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

If you have a disc that can go left, straight, and right at max distance, controlled distance, midrange, and putter distance...you are set. If not, figure out what shot is missing. Make sense?

So for max D - do you have those shots covered? I would imagine you could cover all of them with the Wraiths you have, and maybe add in a new Star Wraith to go between the other two, keeping one Nuke for all-out max D when accuracy isnt a concern. Your Sword seems irrelevant to me if you can hyzerflip your understable Wraith - but that's simply because you could drop from 3 warp-speed molds to two if you dropped the Sword (or kept it and dropped the Nuke).

Also for wraiths I guess the sword is sort of what I throw rather than getting a new wraith.

PDs and the eagle do clash a bit. I do not use them very often. But on a big hyzer shot of flex shot where I need it to come back its more reliable. So I keep them in...

As far as mids the meteor I dumped from throwing to hard. The buzz I can get to Anny real nice and it flattens out so it doesn't roll left for a rhbh.

As for putters With the ion I can hit it Anny real nice too. For me I throw it on anything under 250. And my ion maybe I have a freakish one but it is just a straight shooter. I can pull it hyzer or Anny. I'm finding with most of my discs have a little bit over stable helps because of where I'm at with power. I can hit 300' withy putter. 330 with the buzz. And 375' with the PDs eagles and Leo's. and 380-400 with wraiths and with nukes 400+. And these are all line drive gold shots. If I just Anny the crap out of the wraiths and nukes I can get them to fly 430 or more. But that unpractical obviously. Lol.

So that's what happened to the meteor. It's just to flippy. The buzz or my ion when I lean on them they really finish with a nice Anny.Y

What plastic and weight is the Ion you like for 200+ shots? I been thinking I want something between my challengers and rocs... challengers work great but I can't grip well and my D plastic is too fragile for trees.thanks

The Meteor is used by top pros who can throw as far as you. Are all your shots (drives, fairway shots, approach) thrown at 100% power? It's a great disc to have when your second shot needs to hold a 200' anny with a low ceiling. Basically it's great for finesse shots.

As for the other discs, you have good reasoning, but IMO you'll learn to improve faster by narrowing down your molds. If PD's do the same shots as EX's, but EX's don't quite so the same thing as PD's, keep PD's and drop EX's. In the end, you gotta decide if you want to go more of the minimalist route or not...and not everyone does.

Last question - how much OAT is in your throws with your ION and mids?

allsport1313 wrote:What plastic and weight is the Ion you like for 200+ shots? I been thinking I want something between my challengers and rocs... challengers work great but I can't grip well and my D plastic is too fragile for trees.thanks

Do you have any Z Challengers? That sounds like your ticket. Keep D's for understable stuff once they beat in.

allsport1313 wrote:What plastic and weight is the Ion you like for 200+ shots? I been thinking I want something between my challengers and rocs... challengers work great but I can't grip well and my D plastic is too fragile for trees.thanks

Fightingthetide wrote:The Meteor is used by top pros who can throw as far as you. Are all your shots (drives, fairway shots, approach) thrown at 100% power? It's a great disc to have when your second shot needs to hold a 200' anny with a low ceiling. Basically it's great for finesse shots.

As for the other discs, you have good reasoning, but IMO you'll learn to improve faster by narrowing down your molds. If PD's do the same shots as EX's, but EX's don't quite so the same thing as PD's, keep PD's and drop EX's. In the end, you gotta decide if you want to go more of the minimalist route or not...and not everyone does.

Last question - how much OAT is in your throws with your ION and mids?

yeah i see what you mean with the meteor... and no all my shots are not at 100%. I just find that anything that needs to be 200' on an anny I get my ion to do it... I used to carry an anode for those shots, but again to get a disc to go that far with a putter your leaning on it hard, so a nice flat release with an ion will turn and not come back for me... it sets down nice... the anode would hit and roll left... So I just use something more stable to bring it flatter when it hits the ground...

As for OAT it depends on the shot... Sometimes my understable discs I crank on them a ton because I want them to flip up flat... such as the leo and even ion... that's why I can't for the life of me figure out why I would need an understable approach disc or mid... i can release then anny with enough snap to get my buzz to hold the line as well as with my ion... But if I want them to be straight then flat is where it's at... and even some OAT to get a hyzer flip if it's a really tight shot I don't want to turn on me... Does that make sense?