Ohne Titel / Fall 2014 RTW

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Alexa Adams and Flora Gill of Ohne Titel usually have art and artists on the brain when designing their collections (of course, even the name of their label is partly a reference to one of German artist Anselm Kiefer’s pieces). This season, the inspiration was the work of Kasper Sonne, whose colorblocked tufted works hung behind the runway. You could see the influence there in the color palette—oxblood, navy, black, and white—and in the ultramodern knits the two have become known for. “This is a really strong texture season,” Gill said backstage after the show. The two often experiment with different consistencies, especially when it comes to those knits, but this season they took it further with a new half-cotton, half-synthetic Japanese textile that looks almost like feathers. It came into play in tops, skirts, and a jacket.

There was leather mixed in, like on a quilted pullover, and jacquard—especially good in a black-and-oxblood pullover paired with a pleated skirt. Those knit skirts have become somewhat of an Ohne Titel special, a signature their women no doubt look for every season. And fall’s were right on. The thing about Gill and Adams is that for all their conceptualism and artistic leanings, they usually tend to bring it all back to real life with special things you can actually wear, and good, practical designs. For the shopper who likes to pair a button-up under her sweater? Trousers that have “shirttails” attached at the waist. “It’s a new take on the cummerbund,” Adams explained. And to go with it all, Ohne Titel shoes (this time: thigh-high boots, chunky heels), which also just get better with each offering.

The stars of the show, though, were the metallic knits (this time, references to Sonne’s block works that have a liquid-metal look, Gill said). A silver shrug over a silver top and skirt is the one to have come fall.