One Of Life`s Little Pleasures Is A Lovely Little Brunch

On its surface, brunch sounds like a glorified word invented to help members of the leisure class rationalize late rising after the previous night`s excesses.

In fact, while brunch does serve a useful social function on weekends

--allowing participants sufficient sleeping time to aid recovery from taxing work weeks--all too many highly touted restaurant brunches consist mainly of soggy steam-table waffles, dried-out scrambled eggs and ersatz Canadian bacon. The irritation of such meager offerings can easily offset any gains made toward sanity during a weekend of relaxation, no matter how good the company.

The recipes below not only assure avoidance of a brunch encounter of the disappointing kind, but also rave reviews from friends. The waffles have just enough ginger to give them a lively kick. The pear topping can be varied by using red and green Bartletts or Bosc or Comice pears. It`s the tiny Seckel pears, however, that lend an unbeatable touch of elegance.

Make-it-yourself breakfast sausage of veal and pork tastes better than the run-of-the-mill prepackaged store-bought variety. Fresh basil gives the sausage a wonderful scent, but many other fresh herbs will work just fine. Experiment to find the most pleasing combination or make several different versions and let guests choose their favorites.

Bloody Marys are the traditional brunch drink, of course, but for a change of pace try grapefruit juice spiked with vodka, topped with a little sparkling water and an orange twist. Then lean back, take a sip, enjoy the company of friends and relax, which just might be the definition of a great brunch.

QUICK BREAKFAST SAUSAGE

FOUR TO SIX SERVINGS

PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES

1 pound ground pork

1/2 pound ground veal

1 1/2 teaspoons basil

1/2 teaspoon each: black pepper, ground sage

1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Mix all ingredients in large bowl. Shape into patties about 2 1/2 inches in diameter.

2. Fry in a non-stick skillet until golden on all sides. Drain on paper towel.