Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

Use an 18 inch 3/4 nap either sherlamb or wooster wool. Use the tray that holds 5 gallons and scrape your roller across the top of the paint in the pail. When you lift the roller out of the pail it should be dripping wet, shake it off. Put roller against wall at eye level, go up as high as you can and then downward towards trim. One stroke per dip. Hold the pole so loose that you only truly need 2 fingers, the rest of your hand is there to guide the pole.

On brushwork, use a "production" brush such as the purdy clearcut 3 inch or the wooster alpha 3 inch. Dip brush in paint pail only 1 inch deep, lift and shake it 3 times. 4 is too much. This should allow you to brush a distance equal to your largest wingspan. For me that is a little over 6 feet. 2 swipes per dip, left to right and then right to left.

I use this method for crap paint all the time: Kills 2, S.W. Property Solutions, S.W. CHB, Glidden paints, etc...

Runs will present themselves within 15 minutes after application, so just keep looking back and dabbing them up. i call it "painting paranoid" but that the life of an apartment painter.

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Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

If you're using white primer under bright primary colors, your screwed. You need to start with a gray tinted primer. You are also at a disadvantage shopping at HD for coatings. Think automotive primer do you ever see white primer used. Light that hits the thin top coat is reflected by the white primer underneath, whereas, the gray primer will absorb the light. I sold coatings for about 4 years and proved this to contractors over and over.

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Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftweed

Use an 18 inch 3/4 nap either sherlamb or wooster wool. Use the tray that holds 5 gallons and scrape your roller across the top of the paint in the pail. When you lift the roller out of the pail it should be dripping wet, shake it off. Put roller against wall at eye level, go up as high as you can and then downward towards trim. One stroke per dip. Hold the pole so loose that you only truly need 2 fingers, the rest of your hand is there to guide the pole.

On brushwork, use a "production" brush such as the purdy clearcut 3 inch or the wooster alpha 3 inch. Dip brush in paint pail only 1 inch deep, lift and shake it 3 times. 4 is too much. This should allow you to brush a distance equal to your largest wingspan. For me that is a little over 6 feet. 2 swipes per dip, left to right and then right to left.

I use this method for crap paint all the time: Kills 2, S.W. Property Solutions, S.W. CHB, Glidden paints, etc...

Runs will present themselves within 15 minutes after application, so just keep looking back and dabbing them up. i call it "painting paranoid" but that the life of an apartment painter.

Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lunicy

Am indeed a pro. The job encompasses way more than just paint. The paint pays the least. I know they have no damn clue, but they are banking on the many years of their drunken maintenance men over me.
If I balk too much, they move on to the other guy.

I make a ton of $$ doing the other work, but have to do the paint as well.. to keep the other work. There is no way in hell I'd charge what I charge for the paint alone.

I charge the same for painting as I do everything else. If I'm doing every phase of a job it's bid as a whole why would I want to do any part of it for less money? A pro knows to not allow the client to control the materials you use unless they're willing to pay more for labor. And based on the training you're asking for and getting here you still think you're that much of a pro?

Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by avenge

I charge the same for painting as I do everything else. If I'm doing every phase of a job it's bid as a whole why would I want to do any part of it for less money? A pro knows to not allow the client to control the materials you use unless they're willing to pay more for labor. And based on the training you're asking for and getting here you still think you're that much of a pro?

Apartments are specially bad about doing this. They will let you make a fortune on some items, but ask you to take a hit on others. You have to look at the overall picture and see if its worth it.

I judge by how much a year i make from a particular client on how much a hit I am willing to take. Say for example I am making $75k/year on painting and they need help turning a few apartments do to lack of manpower/mass move out. I'll take the hit, because I am not gonna risk losing a client that has thrown that much money my way.

Alot of times my clients want entry doors repainted for something like $5/door. You just got to keep the charity work from becoming overwhelming.

Re:
Best Primer For The Job?

Apartments are specially bad about doing this. They will let you make a fortune on some items, but ask you to take a hit on others. You have to look at the overall picture and see if its worth it.

I judge by how much a year i make from a particular client on how much a hit I am willing to take. Say for example I am making $75k/year on painting and they need help turning a few apartments do to lack of manpower/mass move out. I'll take the hit, because I am not gonna risk losing a client that has thrown that much money my way.

Alot of times my clients want entry doors repainted for something like $5/door. You just got to keep the charity work from becoming overwhelming.

I get it, I've made very good money painting apartments 30 years ago at $100 an hour. I hated it then and won't touch them now I'm way beyond doing apartments. I can work any deal but would refuse to be forced to perform work under anyone's conditions except my own.

Sure I night throw in a few doors but don't tell me how, when and what to use. Unless I don't have any other clientele it doesn't make much sense to work for less when I could be earning more elsewhere.

The OP's situation seems to be more than a few doors and has very limited control if any.

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