Everything at Fogón

For lunch today at Fogón, I planned to get a chile relleno, which is my favorite thing to eat at a family-style Mexican place—well, that and mole. Like everything at Fogón (the Mexi-pop soundtrack, the decor, the service), the chile relleno is better than usual: lighter batter, greener and firmer and more flavorful chile, cushy queso fresco instead of oozy Monterey Jack. Then I saw that they have chilaquiles at lunchtime, another favorite thing. And what do you know—they were better than usual, with still-crisp house-made totopos, a smoky-tomato spice, and avocado on top. (Fogón, 600 E Pine St, 320-7777, 11 am–11 pm)