Pleasing gods and deities: Age-old bonism practice still lives on

Though
modernization has already made inroads into the country, the age-old
pre-Buddhist practices involving worship of nature spirits and animal
sacrifices is still prevalent in Haa.

In Bhutan, Bonism is mostly
practiced in remote pockets of the country and animals are sacrificed to local
deities (Yul Lhas).

As winter chill spreads its icy
fingers across the country, people are seen moving from their residences to
mountains, caves, ruined houses, streams and giant trees to worship their local
deity. Fall attracts people of western Bhutan to make annual offerings to their
gods.

At the break of dawn,
worshippers haul bags filled with an assortment of grocery items along with rib
bones of yaks, oxen, pigs or strands of pork. After reaching their destination,
Bon practitioners firstly shape an elaborate offering of dough (torma) and
colored butter and put it atop a roof or elevation as treat for the ravens.
They then spend a few minutes repeating mantras for the wellbeing of all
sentient beings and prayers to offset natural disasters.

According to oral tradition,
the spread of Bonism is a pre-Zhabdrung tradition where animals were sacrificed
and offered to nature.

Up with the lark, the native
residents of Haa are seen on the dormer with males carrying ribs, local alcohol
(Chang Phee) followed by recitation of mantras by the elder male in the family.
The hymn starts with praises to the local guardian of Haa-Ap Chundu followed by
the household deity (Jow Pham) and then the neighboring deities.

According to an elderly Haa
resident, Ap Tobgay, every household in Haa has a Jow Pham who takes care of
the wellbeing of the family. The family in return should pay homage to the
deity annually. “We offer meat, fruits, food and offerings of dough to the
invisible substance.”

It is also believed that if
crows appear during the offering, it is a good sign indicating that the deity
is pleased and the family can plan their endeavors peacefully. “Crows are the
herald of deity and its presence signifies the triumph of the yearly
offering.”

Ap Sangay, 87, said that in the olden days, there
were folklores of people butchering yaks, oxen, calves, pigs and birds to
please nature and the deities. However, with the spread of Buddhism, the
practice of killing animals is now replaced by offerings of joints and cuts of
meat (Sha-Nga).

Though many people try to appease
nature either because they are sick or the pawo (shaman) recommends it, it is
usually family tradition that prompts people to follow Bonism.

Some said that it is compulsory
for an individual to proffer Sha-Nga annually to the local deity right from birth
since their family members have to consult the deity. “I can’t think of
skipping this ritual because if we fail to do it, harm will befall us.”

There are others who
deliberately worship the local deities to seek blessings for business, some
seek protection while traveling and still others while venturing into new
career.

Owner of Chuzakha Lhakhang in Haa said that people pay homage to the nearby surroundings in case of failure of business and to seek luck while importing stock.