This is a generous restaurant on every level -- flavors, portions and spirit. While the menu isn't strictly Southern, Adam Sappington nails standards like fried chicken, sweet-cream biscuits and braised collards. But he's just as adept at lighter, Northwest-style dishes such as pan-seared steelhead, or a hearty bistro dish like a grilled rib-eye. The Cat scores extra points for having what may be the most ample wine pour in the city; a wait staff happy to explain the finer points of the bar's bourbon selection; and being open for brunch and dinner seven days a week.

Not to miss: The starter of mussels and smoky paprika-fried potatoes with a piquant lemon aioli will give you shivers, and even if your entree doesn't come with the tender bacon-braised collards, get an order on the side.

Bargains: Those super-sized portions combined with moderate prices make most entrees a bargain. And moderate eaters are likely to bring home enough leftovers for another meal.