Everything You Need to Know About Drinking Saison

Because it's hot out and you're thirsty. Seven brews you should start enjoying right now.

Who knew beer that wasn't brewed by Hanson could be polarizing? Unlike brews that pride themselves on "drinkability," saison is meant to be challenging. "You're either going to love them or hate them," says Kevin Crompton, head brewmaster at Epic Brewing in Salt Lake City and 15-year scholar of saison. The divide comes from the style's huge, varying flavor: sweet and bitter, floral and musky. Intense. And since warmer weather means saison season, we've answered all of the burning questions you didn't know you had about your new favorite beer.

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How do you pronounce it?

SAY-zohn. It's French.

Where is it originally from?

Not France, but close. Saison was first brewed in the French-speaking Wallonia region of southern Belgium in the 18th century. Farmers started making the beer because they needed it more than they needed water.

So they were alcoholics?

No.Well, maybe. But the main reason they drank so much beer was because it doesn't transport pathogens the way that water does, making it likelier to be potable.

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Why can I only find saison in the spring and summer?

Saison means "season" in French. And the season when those aforementioned farmers needed the most hydration was summer. They would make the beer in the winter or fall and store it in cellars until their farms were in full swing months later. Good news for those of us who sit on our asses in air-conditioned buildings instead of working the fields: While many saisons are still seasonally produced, they also tend to be spice-forward, meaning spices are added to the boil earlier than hops, and this style of brewing keeps the flavor profile fresh for longer, allowing the beers to linger in the market year-round.

They add spices? Like what spices?

In the early days of saison-making, each farmhouse had its own recipe, which changed depending on what the home brewer had on hand — think any spice mentioned in Simon and Garfunkel's "Scarborough Fair." So modern-day brewers are just following the establishment by using a wide range of ingredients — cucumber, elderflower, yerba santa — in their saisons. The variance in ingredients means flavor profiles can be sweet and fruity, spicy and malty, or bone-dry and hoppy.

Is it supposed to look this cloudy?

Yup. Most saisons are unfiltered and have high yeast protein content, making them look hazy in the glass.

Is saison a light beer, or should I be careful?

When Belgian farmhands were double-fisting in the fields, brewers kept the alcohol by volume around 3.8 percent. In the ensuing centuries, that number has gradually risen to a more robust range of 5 to 7.5 percent. Also of note for those worried about overdoing it: Saison is usually sold in 22-ounce bottles (your average beer comes in a 12-ounce container), as well as the slightly larger 750-milliliter.

Which saisons should I try?

Brooklyn Sorachi Ace: A classic dry-hopped saison made entirely with Sorachi Ace hops, which are grown on a farm in Washington and rare enough to brag about. This incredibly delicious beer is seasoned with a spicy mix of lemongrass and lemon zest.

ABV: 7.6%

Availability: Year-round

Proprietor's Reserve Opal: Firestone Walker's saison is dry-hopped and made with Belgian Saison yeast and a blend of malts that create a citric, tropical taste. If you tend to find saisons too sweet, try this one.

ABV: 7.5%

Availability: Year-round

Utah Sage Saison: Epic Brewing makes this saison with three different premium malts, multiple grains, Saison yeast, and American hops strong enough for you to know they've arrived to the party, but light enough to not overpower the delicate combination of sage, thyme, and rosemary.

ABV: 6.9-7.6%

Availability: September-October

Saison Dupont: La Brasserie Dupont in Belgium has brewed this classic saison since 1844 on an actual farm. Dry and bitter with a fruity aroma, it's brewed to keep re-fermenting in its bottle. That means that no matter how long it takes to get to you from rural Belgium, it's as delicious as the day it was brewed.

ABV: 6.5%

Availability: La Brasserie Dupont follows the tradition of brewing in the winter and setting aside until spring, but you can find it year-round in the states.

Elektrick Cukumbahh, Saison d'été: As you've likely guessed,Trinity Brewing makes its saison with English cucumbers and lemon zest. When you order it at the bar, just pretend you're from Boston.

ABV: 6.4%

Availability: Get it starting in June.

Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale: Hop-forward instead of spice-forward, this is not your typical saison. The taste reflects it: Boulevard Brewing Company's take on the brew starts sweet and fruity and finishes dry and peppery.

ABV: 8.5%

Availability: Year-round

Hennepin Farmhouse Saison: This saison from the Belgian beer specialists at Brewery Ommegang is named after Father Louis Hennepin, a missionary/explorer/priest/Belgian who gets credit for being the first European to see Niagara Falls. Which is great and all, but do the falls have a champagne-like effervescence and kick from the combination of orange peel zest, ginger, and coriander?