27 April 2012

I was doing my routine check and realised something is wrong with the bypass outlet water hose (part no. 19508-P08-000). The part going to the intake manifold was bloated and it felt softer than the rest of the hose.

The reason was that the inner wall was cracked and water is slipping into the outer layer. It won't take long before the hose bursts.

These are my old radiator hoses. It seems shorter than it was suppose to be, therefore I had a extension fabricated. As for the red silcon tape and cable ties, it was meant to prevent abrasion against protruding fittings on the gearbox.

Luckily, I bought some 'SAMCO' hoses sometime back as spare ;)

Fits very well and the length is correct, as the clearance from the gearbox is much better even without the extension I had.

25 April 2012

Following on from my previous posting the EG6 Fender Brace / Bar, I finally got down to TRY to get it install myself.

Before starting, it is a good idea to get the rust convertor and some paint, just in case there is rust behind the side skirt.

To remove the fender, u can choose remove the side skirt to assess the on of the bolts hiding behind or u can choose to bend the side skirt a bit to assess the bolt. For me, I choose to be safe, in case I damage the side skirt.

To remove the side skirt, just remove 2 screws at the front and some plastic retainers below. Then push the side skirt towards the front of the car and it will come off.

Lucky for me, there was no rust :D

To fix back the side skirt. Remove the plastic retainers from the car body, slot it back onto the side skirt, and push the side skirt back on.

Plastic Retainers for side skirt

Twist to 45 degrees

Should come off quite easily

Slot it back onto the side skirt

Ready to clip it back on

Finally got the fender off..

The top of the Ultra Racing fender brace / bar aligns well to the door hinge bolts

The bottom part aligns well too...

.... However, there is no place to bolt the fender bar on. (UR provide bolts and nuts, so that u 'can' bolt them on)

I got the picture off Ultra Racing website. You can see that it is bolted on in the picture. I made a few checks with fellow EG owners, apparently for all EGs there is no way u can assess the space behind that part of the chasis unless u cut a hole... no way..

The solution will be to have it welded on instead... so into the storeroom the fender brace goes..

Luckily, I got to replace my door hinges. So the effort to remove the fenders was not wasted.

Conclusion: The fender brace was well-made BUT ULTRA RACING DO let the buyers know that it is NOT a DIRECT BOLT ON!!

The picture shows the banjo fitting on the master brake cylinder which is the same for the master clutch cylinder.

The picture shows the -3 AN to 10mm x 1.0 adapter fitting on the master brake cylinder which is the same for the slave clutch cylinder.

Complete installation

I used 32" of braided line, keeping the line as short as possible while allow some movement of the engine. This is for a right hand drive car, for left hand drive it would be much longer.

As the original line are mostly hard lines which will mean that there is minimum line expansion. Although the steel braided hose is used here, but line expansion will still occurs when the clutch is depressed. Therefore, longer the line = more line expansion. So do keep the braided line as short as possible.

For the length I used for my braided line, the clutch feels, engage and disengage well.

20 April 2012

Just received my S2000 master clutch cylinder part no 46920-S2A-003. Most of you would have known that it will bolt right up easily, except that the push rod too long, resulting in the clutch pedal being much higher than normal. There shouldn't be any improvement in performance over the original master clutch cylinder, except that it makes the engine bay neater by eliminating the clutch oil reservoir from the strut towers.

The solution for the longer push rod is either to get a spacer to mount it further away from the firewall or...

Use the M8 x 1.25 die to create more thread along the push rod, so that more adjustment can be made.

Just remove the catch and nut

Create more threads using the die. about 1.5cm or 1/2 inch of threading should be enough.

In my case, I did about a inch.

Before

After

As the diameter of the rod is slightly smaller then the original thread area, you can see the difference in thread between the original thread and the part which was added on. But the nut will still screw on just fine.

The reason for adding threads instead of the using the spacer is that having the cylinder seating directly against the firewall will allow the cylinder to seat more firmly.