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Topic: ATWOOD water heater (Read 738 times)

My 2007 Aspect 26A ATWOOD water heater has developed a leak at the cold water intake. From what I can tell (without taking it out) the leak is right flush at the tank/protruding connector joint which looks like its welded there. Its a slow leak but dripping on wood! The model is GCH6A-10E 6 gal / part # 96159-529273.I found a tank replacement part number #91053 but not sure if correct.

Has anyone had a similar leak?can the joint be re welded?Any miracle cure welcome

My 2007 Aspect 26A ATWOOD water heater has developed a leak at the cold water intake. From what I can tell (without taking it out) the leak is right flush at the tank/protruding connector joint which looks like its welded there. Its a slow leak but dripping on wood! The model is GCH6A-10E 6 gal / part # 96159-529273.I found a tank replacement part number #91053 but not sure if correct.

Has anyone had a similar leak?can the joint be re welded?Any miracle cure welcome

Thanks

If it is that joint welded boss, you most certainly can get it welded. It shouldn't cost much. Probably $20.00. Just guessing.

But again, the labor it takes to remove the water heater and strip it down to the tank might make it more expensive than it's worth.

By chance has someone put a brass plug on the Tank drain? Or put an anode rod in it? If so it's probably a better idea to replace the tank or the whole water heater because doing either of those sets up electrolysis that can erode the tank from the inside out.

The threaded inlet is in a "boss" that is welded into the tank wall, but leaks in the inlet itself are extremely rare. More likely the fitting that screws into the inlet is what is leaking, but anything is possible. Is there a way to get at it from the inside of the RV to further inspect and repair?? Maybe even cut a hole in the back of a cabinet or whatever?

As others mentioned, if you cannot fix it in place, most of the effort to fix it is remove & replace (R&R). There are places that can weld the tank if it is cracked, perhaps inexpensively, or there are replacement tanks available. However, if you cannot do the R&R yourself, it is going to be expensive.

If the joint is easily accessible it may be worth a try to clean and sand it and try some JB Weld or MarineTex on it before going to the trouble to remove it. Not sure of JB Weld's temperature rating but I know MarineTex will hold up to the water jacket on a diesel engine.

What Gary said. My Atwood water heater developed a leak on the outlet side. I had to unscrew the plastic fitting, remove the old pipe sealant, apply new sealant and screw the fitting back in. That took care of the leak. Of course inlet side developed a leak few months later. The sealant hardens overtime and can develop leaks.

UPDATE Thank you for all the suggestions.I decided to try JB-Weld's MarineWeld as a temporary fix. It is holding so far & hopefully will last the rest of the season. I will then replace the whole water heater as its bound to restart its leak.Safe travel & thanks again.

UPDATE Thank you for all the suggestions.I decided to try JB-Weld's MarineWeld as a temporary fix. It is holding so far & hopefully will last the rest of the season. I will then replace the whole water heater as its bound to restart its leak.Safe travel & thanks again.

We're you able to figure out exactly where the leak was? The welded boss or the fitting that screws into the boss?

The threaded inlet is in a "boss" that is welded into the tank wall, but leaks in the inlet itself are extremely rare. More likely the fitting that screws into the inlet is what is leaking, but anything is possible. Is there a way to get at it from the inside of the RV to further inspect and repair?? Maybe even cut a hole in the back of a cabinet or whatever?

I agree..IMO the first thing the OP should do is determine exactly where the leak is coming from.

Let me try again - the leak is a failed weld - NOT at any screw in fittings.The inlet boss is welded to the tank and it has developed a leak AT THE WELD.Confirmed visually & with a talcum powder test (dry area, put talc on & see which area gets wet first.)Case closed