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About primer&rust

Did you check to make sure you have power at the ignition coil. You can use a test light to the positive at the primary side of the coil to check. Could be wiring is burnt/old/bad, fuse, or fusible links, or the shunt box if you still have it on the car. Also check your grounds and relays if possible and maybe ignition switch. Sometimes the little stuff can make big problems.

I've got a MSA 6 in 1 with 2 1/2 inch exhaust and mufflers. I believe it is better than the 6 into 2 as I had one on my car in the past and wasn't too impressed. Without mufflers these car are loud with that 6-1 header. I ran it with no pipe in the driveway and the neighbors came over and thought I had a Big Block Chevy under the hood from the sound. If you get a racing header the larger tube size is suppose to effect the RPM power range. I did the bulk of the exhaust myself and it would probably be easier to fit 2 1/2 inch than three but do whatever works for you. It's always a pain when you go to a lot of work an than are not pleased with the results. You will usually than have to redo the whole job again to get it just how you want it.

I seems like a waste of time an money on these car all the linkage is short and usually has no problems whatsoever. Do you want your Z car taking off on its own like some of the Toyota Prius cars did. I think, keep it simple stupid, applies here. At least if there is something wrong with mechanical linkage you can usually see it and fix. Computer glitches are much harder to deal with and track down.

Search Ebay (cheapest), Summit Racing for Professional, or MSA for Products 80055 Nissan L-Series Damper. They are cheap, brand new, but be warned they are super hard to get these things installed because they are a extremely tight fit and probably should be machined to fit better. I messed up the threads on my crankshaft bolt torquing the pulley down and had to pick up another crankshaft bolt at the wrecking yard. I also bought some large washers at Lowes to help put extra pressure on the pulley to pull it down onto the crankshaft snout which helped alot. These pulleys also require a narrower belt than stock. If you get this pulley either get it machined larger or make sure you have plenty of time to get it installed and some big breaker bar to do the job or maybe air impact.

Megasquirt can be a whole box of new problems, at least it was for me and I had a professionally assembled unit. I'm dealing with SU carbs now and even though they have some lean spots (I'm going to order some SM needles) THEY ROCK! I'm getting lots more pull than the injected engine and they start so much quicker than the fuel injection ever did. If you need more compression and you have some money or a machineist friend get the head milled to its max limit shim the cam towers and that should raise your compression some. All the N47 heads I have seen along with N42 p79 and p90 head are setup for injection or carburetion. I think the E heads didn't have the notches and thread bolt holes for the injection manifold.

If I were you i would avoid Megasquirt. I tried it and it was just a huge waste of money that didn't work. At the very least if you buy an assembled unit from someone make sure you have everything ready to go on the car as the warranty for your assemble unit can pass quickly than you are left paying a repair bill for a computer that does not get fix properly and you are out more money. If I were to do it again I would have saved the money for a name brand unit like Electromotive Tec instead of the Radio Shack version (Megasquirt) that is plagued with problems.

Alright so I can get the the car started and idling well but I can not hold a steady RPM when I rev the motor. If I stab the throttle and let off I can rev it to 5K RPM but if I try to hold RPM the engine stumbles and dies sometimes backfiring. I have played with the PWM settings( 1.2 opening time, 35% current limit, 1.5 time threshold for the stock injectors) and it idles well but that is about it. Could this be from pulling the tach signal from the coil negative instead of a VR trigger. When I tried to tee into the VR signal from between my ZX distributor and the GM HEI module I would get no spark or injection. I might have a weak VR signal because my tachometer inside the car never read RPM at idle. Is their a better distributor (280z) for a stronger VR trigger signal ( I know the ignition box was clear inside the car in the 280z) or should I just go ahead and install Ford EDIS. I believe I can pickup either one of these systems at a local wrecking yard. I'm trying to get the car up and running as it has been down 3 weeks so any input is appresiated. Thank You

From the Mega squirt website under the external wiring diagram for the v3.0 board "All MegaSquirtÂ® installations must have an input (tach) signal to determine engine speed. This signal comes in on pin #24 of the DB37. A variable reluctor (VR) input (tach) sensor is shown (above) for the input. To use a Hall sensor, optical sensor, or points trigger, you connect the signal to the same input pin (DB37 #24) as the VR sensor. You must ground the VR other lead of the sensor as well, and pin #7 is shown for this (though pin #2 can also be used). However, pin 7 is not a 'dedicated' or specialized ground for the VR sensor, it just happens to be a ground (the next revision of the PCB will have a dedicated ground for the VR circuit on DB37 pin #2, so use pin #2 if you think you might upgrade at any point)." This is where I got the information and it seems to work.

I found out the VR positive from the megasquirt is suppose to be connected to the negative trigger of the coil and the VR negative from the megasquirt is suppose to be grounded. Car idles but stumbles a little bit time for more prayer and tuning time. Hope this helps someone else out too.

Hello I have a 3.0 board built by DIY Auto setup for a VR trigger, 280zx distributor, Gm 4pin HEI and I can't seem to get a tach signal from the negative of the coil. I am trying to run fuel only with 029y4 and when I run the positive VR wire to the positive of the coil I do get a tach signal, it tries to start, has spark, and has RPM readings (between 70 RPM & 411 RPM) on the gauges but it does not start. When I run the negative VR wire to the negative side of the coil I get no spark at plugs or coil. I ran the 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the wires on the modules firing side but this made little or no difference. When I try to start the car with the postive VR hooked into the coil + I do get the LED flashing. When I have the negative VR hooked into the coil it only flashes once and no spark. I am not running shielded wire to the coil, would this help at all as in Megatune it shows no RPM with the negative trigger. I have read so many post here and on the Megasquirt forum if anyone has an idea what might be helpful please let me know.

I'm running a mn47 shaved .050", with porting, and 44mm intake valves on a dished piston L28. It runs good and strong although I need to change the valve timing a bit (it's not right on). My car has a stock Z camshaft and now like to run on premium gasoline. You can notice less power if you use regular gasoline. Your set up should work great in my opinion.

I think it may have taken about an hour to port the manifold. I only got about half way down the runner because my mandrel was not long enough. I used the standard abrasive deluxe kit summit racing sold for $50 at that time. I still have some cartridge rolls left from it and I have ported a supercharger, 2 intake manifolds, and 2 cylinder heads even though one of them was a light job on a 4 cyl. I did not flow test the job, just a DIY project but my car with the ported head and manifold runs very good. Use WD 40 for lubing the cartridge rolls and a die grinder with good air pressure. The porting kit comes with instructions for porting cylinder heads. Porting the intake all the way could be a little tricky because after you get so far down the runner you can't see way you are doing. I also opened up the throttle opening pictured above.

If the pump worked with the SU carbs (240z) it should work with your holley carb. A high pressure fuel injection pumps usually run around $100 so if it is a cheap pump it is probably setup for a carburetor. If it was my setup I would run a fuel regulator. This would let you adjust your fuel flow if your pump puts out a little too much pressure and keep the flow of fuel steady.

If the flywheel is from a 2+2 you will most likely have a 240mm flywheel and need that clutch disc sized for it. If it was from the 2 seater it is most likely a 225mm flywheel and need the clutch size for it. The pressure plates also have different bolt patterns depending on which flywheel they bolt to. The only way to know for sure is to tear it down and match it with the clutch disc you need either through pictures or at a parts store. With the mix and match setup you already have that is the best advise I can give. Or if you have enough cash buy both clutch disc and return the one that wil not work with your setup.