Around Cobble Hill, little remains of the old neighborhood. There’s Sam’s Pizza (no tank tops, no slices) and the Community Bookstore (irregular hours, hoarder’s heaven). Until a few years ago, there was also the Jim & Andy produce market, owned by Vincent (Jim) Cincotta, who peddled out of a horse-drawn cart from the nineteen-thirties until 1970, when he bought the shop. He died in 2009, and, while the original Jim & Andy sign remains, the bar that moved in is of the new Brooklyn order. (No word on the fate of the horse.) Sharp-elbowed nonnas shopping for Sunday supper have been replaced by freelancers toting vinyl to play on the bar’s turntable (currently trending: classic soul), which they are invited to do in off-peak hours. By day, they sip a local brew or a souped-up Bloody Mary, like the one with heirloom tomato and pickled pearl onion. After dark, as date-night murmurs crescendo to a candlelit roar, records are replaced by playlists featuring of-the-moment acts like Sky Ferreira and Japandroids. The custom wallpaper is described by the co-owner Lauren Weisstein as “an homage to the fruit stand”—flowers, gourds, insects, berries. Another homage is the piquant Jim & Andy cocktail: rum, homemade ginger syrup, lemon, soda, blackberry garnish. For a stronger kick, request an off-menu Tequila Torchlight—essentially, spiked Tabasco. ♦