Overview

Simonyspitze, 3488m is the mountain in the western part of the Venediger group. This area is rarely visited. In this area the most known mountain and also the highest peak is Dreiherrnspitze / Picco dei Tre Signori, 3499m. At the end of the group on the west side there is another high mountain called Roetspitze / Pizzo Rosso, 3495m. This is the area of huge glaciers with many crevasses and seracs that are hardly approachable. Above the glaciers there are very steep and hardly approachable faces.

Simonyspize is the mountain with two summits. We can also say that these are two independent mountains but they are both called Simonyspitze. The summit more to the west is called Westlicher (west) Simonyspitze, 3488m and the second more to the east is called Östlicher (east) Simonyspitze. It is lower. Its height is 3448m. Both summits are connected with the fine airy rocky and snowy ridge. For crossing the ridge from to another summit we need around 30 minutes. We must climb some parts around UIAA II if we find the best passages. Just before we reach the summit of both peaks we must climb also over the steep and airy snow ridge.

Simonyspitze, 3488m on the right and on the left the rocky Gubachspitz, 3392m.

To the west side goes from the summit of the Westlicher Simonyspitze the ridge that is linked to Dreiherrnspitze. Below Dreiherrnspitze and Westlicher Simonyspitze on the SW side is located a huge glacier called Umbalkees. The glacier is at the end of extremly long valley Umbaltal. To the south goes from the Westlicher Simonyspitze another mighty ridge. This ridge is first connected with two airy and steep mountains. Both mountains are called Gubachspitz. More to the nord side is Hinterer Gubachspitz, 3392m. The southern one is Vorderer Gubachspitz, 3348m. Both are hardly approachable. Very exterme view on them is from the hut Essener – Rostocker, 2208m from the east side. The south ridge has another important point. The notch Reggentörl, 3056m that connects two valleys. On the west side Umbaltal and on the east side MaurerTal. More to the south there is another important peak, directly above the notch Reggentörl, 3056m called Malhamspitz, 3373m that also have more summits. Then the south ridge steeply falls down to the valley Umbaltal. There is another important ridge that goes from the Östlicher Simonyspitze in the NE direction and over the all summits of Maurerkeeskopf, 3313m reaches the important notch Maurertörl, 3108m. The small ridge also goes from the Östlicher Simonyspitze in the SE direction and falls in the valley MaurerTal. Over this ridge goes the normal approach to the Östlicher Simonyspitze.

Westlicher (west) Simonyspitze, 3488m.

Östlicher (east) Simonyspitze, 3448m.

Now some words about glaciers. On all slopes of Simonyspitze are located large glaciers. On the north side above the valley Krimmler Achental is the largest and the hardest accessible glacier with many crevasses, seracs and ice falls called Krimmlerkees. On the SW side is already menitoned glacier Umbalkees. The smallest one is on the SE side called Simonykees. It very nicely seen from the hut Essener – Rostocker. The fourth one is on the NE side and it is named Maurerkees. We have the best chance to hike over these glaciers in Winter with ski. In the Summer and Fall there are so many crevasses that is very hard to walk around all of them and we will need a lot of time. That I don`t mention the very possible falls to crevasses.

Simonyspitze has one, not so glacier ascent. This the ascent over the SE ridge of Östlicher Simonyspitze. In early season this is steep snowy and icy ridge with gradient to 50°. In Fall we have the rocky passages with difficulties around UIAA II. Later in the season there are possible ice passages on the upper part. In late season we have only 100 meters of glacier climb and this climb is located on the ridge so we don`t have problems with crevasses.

Getting There

Location map.

Getting there depends on in which valley you want to start your trip.

South-east approach

For the south-east approach you have to follow the road until Matrei, then the Virgental to the end of the valley to the village Streden, 1403m where there is a parking place. You have to pay 3 euros for one day or 9 euros for one week.

South-west approach

For this approach you also park in Streden, 1403m. Then you take a long hike through the long valley Umbaltal.

North approach

For the north approach you have to go to the valley Krimmler Achental to the villahe Krimmland then forward through the valley.

Route Overview

View down on the SE ridge.

Climbing on the SE ridge.

There are many possibilities for climbing on Simonyspitze. Remind that all approaches are very long and are almost necessarily long for two days. I listed routes but if you know for some more chances, please just let me know.

SE ridge. You come directly to the top of Östlicher Simonyspitze. From Essener-Rostocker hut. PD. 3:30 - 4 hours. Description.

SW approach. From the valley Umbaltal or from the valley Maurertal over the notch Reggentörl. Long glacier climb. PD.

Connection between both summits. 30 minutes of climbing (UIAA II) on snowy and icy ridge.

NE ridge. Over the summits of Maurerkeeskopf from the notch Maurer Törl. Very long and hard glacier and rock climb.

Connection to Dreiherrnspitze / Picco dei Tre Signori. From the top of Dreiherrnspitze over the east ridge and then over the west ridge of Simonyspitze to the summit. The hardest part is climbing down from the Dreiherrnspitze. AD. UIAA III.

Red Tape

No restrictions of climbing or fees although the whole area is part of the Nationalpark Hohe Tauern.
Camping is not allowed in the National Park, but alpine bivouacs are allowed. In the parking place in Streden you have to pay parking fee. For one day 3 euros, for whole week 9 euros.

When To Climb

Hard passable glaciers.

January to May with Ski, July to September by foot. In summer time the huts are opened and you can get food almost as in a restaurant. The hut on the south-east side, Essener-Rostocker Huette, 2208m is opened the whole year.