So a quick question. on the TPS sensor itself there are two plugs. However I am only able to find one on my harness. Is this normal? Could one have been used for the egr system, or is it possible to eliminate one? Not really able to figure it out looking at the fsm.

Does it ask you for a serial number? I'll PM you.
I think the S14's TPS is a bit different than our S13 one, but is there one regular harness coming out of it, and then a plug on the TPS itself?
If it's anything like how the Q45's is setup, I think the plug on the front of the TPS is used for some emission testing or calibrating I think.

That's what I was thinking. It may have been installed wrong, but I am getting 3.8v with the car not running and the safc says throttle is at 100% when the pedal is depressed. I will look into it today.

Got the tps signal worked out. Sensor was installed wrong. I got my turbo this evening. Had to have my turbo guy machine out a custom exhaust housing to replace the stock diesel v band housing. If everything goes smooth, tomorrow I will be starting it for the first time.

lol A bunch of stuff razi. I have ran it a few times now. I still have to get the cooling system 100% . First start up the Mocal cooler just sprayed oil everywhere. I took for granted it had been assembled correctly and it looks like the gaskets were left out of the end caps. So I eliminated the cooler for now. I have not gotten my silicone tubing from 034 motorsports yet to do the final plumbing on the rad and heater core. right now I just have some universal rubber hoses on it. Still have to weld the r2d2 into the IC piping, get the rest of the stainless vacuum lines to the greddy controller plumbed up.. and im sure there is something else I am forgetting.

One thing that kind of concerns me. The build is using the 232/248 cam swap. What I thought was hunting from the IACV I think is actually just a cam loping. I have been doing some reading on the cam swap, some people have had issues with the valves contacting the piston. (engine running, but upon disassembly they noticed the contact) Also, most people that experience loping from what I can tell have them set on 4 teeth off, which is tuned to 5k+. I hope the lack of bottom end with the big turbo dosent create a super lag situation. I guess time will tell. I have a boroscope I think I will check the cylinders and piston tops with tomorrow to look for anything out of normal. Hoping this goes smoothly. Other than that, it runs smooth at this point. Should be able to get some ends tied up tomorrow and get it moved out of the shop under its own power for the first time in almost 4 years.

This build has been an extraordinary experience for me. Just having the car together, and knowing all the pieces and parts are there is awesome in itself, but fulfilling my brothers dream of having it together like he wanted it is awesome. There will be a lot of details to come as I get closer to finishing the engine, so stay tuned.

Razi wrote:Yikes, I didn't know that setup could cause the valves to touch the pistons.
Maybe with the aftermarket pistons you'll be okay?

lol. They would have already contacted If they were going to. So I think I am good.
I have been teaching myself how to tig. Have a real nice setup, but no clue how to use it.. lol. I think I have steel down pretty well, but aluminum is way beyond my capability right now. Unfortunately aluminum is what I need to weld at the moment.

Hit the scrap yard dude. When I was learning to be a not-so-good-welder I hit up my local scrap yard for a bunch of junk metal. Practice on the same thickness/type before you weld on the actual project material. Hell I still do test welds before I touch anything important.

Absolutely! This was so much more than building a car for me. It was about fulfilling a dream of my brothers. And to have it come out as clean as it is, how much I learned from building it and to have it in the end run so well is really rewarding. I have had numerous problems and glitches, but I have the majority of them worked out. Getting it broken in and ready for a full pull will still be a process, but the hard work is over. I did all the wrenching by myself, but I could not have done it without my parents, in more respect than one.

Anyways, I will keep updating as I go. I have a set of z32 calipers. Is it nessecary to upgrade BMC as well when doing the calipers? I will be putting in a cage in the next few months, so lots of work to do yet, but IT RUNS!!! AHHHHH

Oh, this evening I got my consult cable and my datalogger working (finally) I couldn't figure out how to get my serial-usb adaptor working with windows 8 as there are no drivers that claim to work with windows 8. Just kind of fiddling around and got a driver to install. Really cool program, and I appreciate the PM. I can finally get the zeitronix wideband and failsafe/relay hooked up.

Ha...isn't that always a good feeling! You never really feel done until the hood is back on.

Congrats on the finished project, I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment. During break-in make sure you have lots of high vacuum time on the motor during the first few 100 miles. That will help seat the rings really well. I look forward to the video's you're going to take of it running...hint hint.

WDRacing wrote:Ha...isn't that always a good feeling! You never really feel done until the hood is back on.

Congrats on the finished project, I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment. During break-in make sure you have lots of high vacuum time on the motor during the first few 100 miles. That will help seat the rings really well. I look forward to the video's you're going to take of it running...hint hint.

Haha,
Yeah I will get some videos. I started to take one a few days ago and then I couldn't get the car to start. (dizzy issue) Ill get an idling putting around video shortly and when I start to run it will def make another. Looks like a few of the calipers are locked up when I was driving it the other day. Time to brush the dust off the z32 calipers I have it looks like. Can anyone link me to an article about the swap? I read it a while back when I had my 13 but forget a bunch of stuff. What other than the rotors calipers and lines do you need?

Damn if I ever meet that guy who did the writeup I want to buy him a beer. Looks like I will be making a trip to the pick a part lot. After seeing his job with all the new hardware, It makes me feel inadequate. lol

Quick question, I am making sure I have my boost controller hooked up right.
I saw this article http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/turp_ ... to_02.html
And it shows some kind of in line filter or one way in two of the lines. Are those one way valves that stop vacuum from being applied to the solenoid? Not that it would hurt the solenoid, but when I hook the third port up (the dump port) on the solenoid I get a vacuum leak. There would be no reason I can see that the solenoid would ever need to see vacuum, so I guess that would be appropriate right?

Interesting. I know my profec controller calls for an inline filter, maybe for condensation? That makes a little sense.

Got the wideband and got my first datalog this evening. AFR's look to be good w/o load. I may get the chance to take it for a cruise tomorrow and see what it looks like. Still a ways off from seeing a WOT run.

Built a section of IC piping that I am going to mount my R2D2 on this evening after tig welding on an original barrel mount from a hundred year old musket.

Also got the failsafe mounted and wired up. Pretty neat unit, hooks to my datalogger and allows me to program Microsoft excel like codes in to trigger a relay I have hooked up to the ignition coil to cut spark. IE: oil pressure < 10psi @ 1000 rpm. Pretty cool stuff.

On a drive the other night I noticed that the BMC was getting way too much heat. This was out of boost. So I pulled some aluminum scraps together and made a head shield for the BMC and the booster. Turned out pretty good, I think I am slowly understanding how to weld aluminum, although its still a PITA.

I also replaced the two piece turbo-IC pipe with a one piece I made to avoid intake leaks and the extra clamps and failure points associated with the extra coupler.
I would really like to get the car tagged and broken in so I can do some hard pulls. I just don't know when that will happen. Might have to take my DD saab off the road and tag the Nissan.

During a drive the other night I did see a little bit of boost. Maybe two psi. No problems and AFR was stable. Looked like the tune will be slightly rich, but I am surprised so far with how close it is.

Also, I bought the Sard r2d2 Bov because that was what Nate preferred. I am finding I have a slight stalling issue when I let off the throttle, its more pronounced when under boost. Thinking it would be best to go to a recirc if I cant tune it out. I would switch to blow through, but don't want to worry about my fuel maps changing.

Yeah, some people have issues with running their BOV like that.
I'm going to be running my MAF on a blow through setup soon. Some people say they have no AFR changes, other say they run slightly lean. I guess I'll just have to try and find out.

I have been told that a blow through setup needs 8" of straight pipe on either side of the MAF to work to its fullest potential, I have no where in my piping I could do that. Although I am slightly rich, I don't want to have to re tune or take the chance of my first pulls being lean.

8" of straight piping is just about impossible.
People run it where the top and bottom half of the cold pipe meet and don't have much issue.
If there is turbulence though, you can stick one of these honeycombs in front of the MAF.http://saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html

True enough. At this point I have a lot of things to try before I rework my maf into my IC piping.

The more and more I look at that heat shield the less I like it.. lol
I think I will tig something from stainless that just covers the manifold tubes individually when I go to install the z32 brake kit.
You have a build thread Razi? Appreciate you keeping me company in here by the way.

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