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What did you change up the diff to? Can the m-variable unit even handle the power? I wonder how close to the 4b motorsports drag full race car your street can get- david ran around 9.2/159mph with irs and built up stock diff I setup.

As low as 2.65 ratio is avail to fit the 210mm with ability to configure high lock clutch LSD. I'm still waiting on that s54 block/crank from my friend: do you still need one?

I'm running an OS Giken diff right now with a Motorsports 24 solid billet cover (no bushings). I'll likely see better times with a 2.xx r&p but right now I'm going to see what the stock gearing will do.

I might be interested in that S54 if you still have it. I've got extra trannys and blocks already but what I could really use would be a extra crank or two.

Quote:

Originally Posted by evilstar

So does that mean the bet with chris is off for mfest?

Still on if the car is done in time.. I have the tendency of surprising people.. so I'm sure it will be there with bells on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by InDiGlOM3

Something unbalanced in the motor? Who has built it these four times?

Sent from my PG86100 using Bimmer App

I've replaced the flywheel, etc.. multiple times.. something is unbalanced somewhere.. the flywheel bolts keep backing out. I've replaced the drive shaft, with a solid one piece, and a new 2 piece.. after 1000mi the flywheel bolts are literally falling out.

It happened once in vegas.. didn't think much of it.. assumed it was installation error or a locktite issue, etc.. pulled it, put it back in.. i got home.. started doing it again.. i pulled the flywheel/clutch, reinstalled with a new flywheel and new bolts, etc.. did it again at almost exactly 1000mi.. now here we are .. so I guess its done it 3 times then.. regardless something is unablanced somewhere.. when the bolts backed out the first time one sheered and ****ed up the crank snout...

Unrelated but I did a compression test on the motor.. it solid across the board.. Saad built one beast of a motor, that's for sure. I've done nothing but beat on it since we got done with it back in April.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

Still on...cept it's gonna be good ol blue doing the 6MT job

Indeed I'm bringing a knife to a gun fight but, regardless I'm not going to back down.

With the os giken m1 unit you are using the lowest ratio that will fit is 3,15- the flange offset for lower ratios is different

I'll keep my eyes out for a crankshaft for you- are you killing harmonic dampers? Stock damper or ati?

Do you think the flywheel bolts backing out is damper related?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Bimmer App

Could be damper related.. I was considering switching to an ATI. But now that my snout on my crank is all mauled up I'm sure its only adding to the issues..

Right now I have to pull the tranny again, check everything out, retighten the bolts, and if I wanted to I could swap to the ati balancer and reassemble.. put another 1000mi on it and see what happens..

When the bolts start to back out I literally have about 10mi before the come completely out. Everything sounds/behaves normal.. then within about 10 miles it deteriorates FAST. Right now its within the first mile or two of me noticing the issue.. haven't disassembled it yet.

If you win... It will be the most impressive thing in racing history since John Britten made his own motorcycle in his basement beating Ducati! lol

I don't know about that! Lol. If I built a second drag car, from scratch. But I just don't have time for it. I've had help with this car from every vendor, Saad, ProEFI, FSR and even HPF. I've done some on my own but most has been with some assistance.

The drag car has been mia for a very long time...I wouldn't be worried.

Last we saw of it, it ran a 10.2 I think, which would beat my 10.56. So I've got quite a bit to do to get to my car to a 10.1 or better and I'm sure Chris isn't sitting on his laurels, but I also know he's been distracted with other stuff. Should be interesting if we both make it.

Could be damper related.. I was considering switching to an ATI. But now that my snout on my crank is all mauled up I'm sure its only adding to the issues..

Right now I have to pull the tranny again, check everything out, retighten the bolts, and if I wanted to I could swap to the ati balancer and reassemble.. put another 1000mi on it and see what happens..

When the bolts start to back out I literally have about 10mi before the come completely out. Everything sounds/behaves normal.. then within about 10 miles it deteriorates FAST. Right now its within the first mile or two of me noticing the issue.. haven't disassembled it yet.

I have a known good oem damper here from my own car that was only used with stock dual mass that you are welcome to try using or compare your current stock unit to if you would like- would be my hunch that the damper may be on the way out and sending pulses to terminate on the bolts. Did you ask OSG engineers if they have experienced similar?
I Have ran OSG clutch on japanese cars without any vibration/bolts issues

I have a known good oem damper here from my own car that was only used with stock dual mass that you are welcome to try using or compare your current stock unit to if you would like- would be my hunch that the damper may be on the way out and sending pulses to terminate on the bolts. Did you ask OSG engineers if they have experienced similar?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Bimmer App

No, but I should. However if I'm going to go to the trouble I figure I might as well throw an ATI on there.

I heard some people say that if the issue ISN'T with the balancer the ATI could make the situation worse. Not sure if thats true or not.

Btw, is your block/crank still at your house? If so I'll pick it up from you in a few weeks. I still have the axles sitting here waiting to send them to DSS.. been so dang busy.

I'll head over to BMW and order a new stock damper.

Its at my friends about an hour and half south, been meaning to pick it up 4th quarter 2012 but got swamped w work and now am overseas on family biz (funeral). Will let you know when I pick it up- probably late feb early march-

Id order a brand new oem bmw damper and see if there is any delamination on the current unit from heat etc

Its at my friends about an hour and half south, been meaning to pick it up 4th quarter 2012 but got swamped w work and now am overseas on family biz (funeral). Will let you know when I pick it up- probably late feb early march-

Id order a brand new oem bmw damper and see if there is any delamination on the current unit from heat etc

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Bimmer App

My car has about 50k miles on it.. if the damper shows excessive signs of delamination or a split wouldn't that be a sign that something in the motor (or rotating assembly) is off balance causing excessive heat and vibration that the damper is attempting to counteract.

You know I live about an hour south of you, so if you want me to pick it up before Feb/Mar I can.

Sorry about your loss, my grandmother passed yesterday and I'll be traveling all this week for the service/funeral/etc.

My car has about 50k miles on it.. if the damper shows excessive signs of delamination or a split wouldn't that be a sign that something in the motor (or rotating assembly) is off balance causing excessive heat and vibration that the damper is attempting to counteract.

You know I live about an hour south of you, so if you want me to pick it up before Feb/Mar I can.

Sorry about your loss, my grandmother passed yesterday and I'll be traveling all this week for the service/funeral/etc.

Thank you

I need to visit some friends down south anyways, hopefully all will fall in place when I return. Rip and my condolences to your family also, has been a really big family time for me

Failure at ~50k area is unusual but not unheard of. Usually they fail on track race cars with elevated redlines and light weight single mass flywheels- im pretty sure the thrust of acceleration of the turbocharged power is also stressful for it.