~ in Amsterdam!

Category Archives: Bikes

Happy Weekend! I have some friends visiting us at the moment (it’s promising to be a busy summer!), and we’ve been doing all sorts of fun Amsterdam things. They’re here for a nice long time so we haven’t needed to stress about squeezing everything in. Lazy, relaxing days with lots of food have been the focus.

I love the wisteria on the canal houses, all over the city.

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day, the nicest we’ve seen in a long time, and we all had a blast soaking it up. Sometimes the best things to do with visitors are the things you’d do anyway! We started by visiting the Noordermarkt, a busy farmer’s market. It was warm enough for dresses at last, and I got to use my new basket tote for carrying veggies. It performed beautifully. We also got some fresh squeezed orange juice, which is the tastiest thing ever!

{Photo courtesy of my father.}

We spent the afternoon at a food cart festival, which was amazing and deserves it’s own post, and then we ended the day at Vondelpark. I don’t get down there that often, since we live a bit far away from it, but yesterday I was reminded why I should. It’s such a lovely place! The trees were in bloom with spring flowers, people were lounging everywhere enjoying the sun, grills and picnics were in full swing, and the fountains were happily gurgling. We enjoyed the perfect bike ride through the leafy paths, and I even managed to snap some pictures while riding, one-handed. Amsterdam has taught me well.

The weather is a bit fitful, but in between the showers we are seeing lots of sunshine lately. Last week we took advantage of that to get out on our bikes! I bike a lot through town, but the trips are so short that I can hardly count it as exercise. So we’ve vowed to try to take a longer bike ride out of town every week.

Last week, with no destination in mind, we followed the Amstel River south. Within a few kilometers we were out of the city, in fields and farms dotted with horses, goats, and sheep. We found the most adorable lambs in all shades of white, black and brown, and a hilariously large-and-woolly mama sheep.

There were rowers out on the river, and joggers out on the road. People were sitting outside in their gardens chatting, or weeding their daffodils and tulips. We even passed a few windmills.

We made it all the way to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, a tiny little town hugging the river. The cafe terraces were so tempting! Next time we’ll have to stop for a warm drink or frothy brew.

I definitely need to keep going, because those 22 km completely wore me out! The next sunny day, I’ll be back on my bike, looking for more woolly sheepies.

The sun peeked out of the clouds on Easter morning just in time for our bike ride through the canal belt. We headed to the Jordaan neighborhood where our friends were house-sitting a gorgeous apartment in the posh Nine Streets.
I spent all day pretending like I actually lived there, watching the tourists queue up for pannekoeken below. Suckers! (Actually, I’ve been to that pannekoeken place, and it was quite good.)

We gathered together a delicious Easter brunch, with snacks on the rooftop followed by more eating inside. Jesse recently went to Florence (I’m try to wrangle a blog out of him!) and brought back prosciutto. The strawberry jam is from De Laastse Kruimel, the cutest little sandwich shop/bakery tucked into a busy street here in Amsterdam. And the loaf is Paasbrood, or Easter bread, a special treat only for Eastertime, full of raisins and candied fruit, but striking the perfect balance of sweet and bready.

We also enjoyed coffee from Jesse’s new siphon filter, which I believe is one of the most pretentious ways to make coffee, ever. But because it looks so cool, and the coffee tastes damn good, I’ll happily be pretentious for it. Jesse found the siphon for a whopping €7.50 at a local antique shop (he scores the best finds! Remember this?), and has been jumping out of bed every morning since, declaring, “I’m making coffee!” Secretly I think he might be making other things, Breaking Bad-style.

We stuffed ourselves on coffee, paasbrood, a delicious frittatta, and excellent conversation, until we could barely teeter our bikes home.

In honor of Spring being so near (is it today, the 20th? Or officially tomorrow, the 21st? I never know), here’s a few snapshots of a bike ride we took some weeks ago, where I saw the first hints of the coming season. It never ceases to frustrate me at how long spring takes to arrive anywhere (I should probably move to Florida), but I do love the teases nature offers.

We took advantage of a sunny day some time ago to get some exercise. We ride our bikes all the time, but it’s usually only across town so this longer ride was definitely tough!

The Amsterdamse Bos (‘Amsterdam Wood’), is about 7km south of us, near the city of Amstelveen. It’s a big park with 51km of winding paths, open spaces for picnics and games, a petting zoo, fountains and children’s pools in the warm months, and lots of empty spaces for wandering.

We cycled around aimlessly, finding a polder to eat our lunch in while we watched geese. The area is so close to Schipol Airport that we could count how many planes come in for landing (I lost count quickly.)

It was a chilly enough day that it still felt like winter, but then I saw them. Hints of spring. I screeched my brakes to a halt to better admire them.

Any idea what these flowers are? I’m terrible at identifying that stuff. (Update: Consensus says they’re snowdrops! Thanks!) I’m looking forward to warmer days and many more bike expeditions in the coming weeks!

The Netherlands is a fascinating little country: a huge swath of it is below sea level. The name itself even means “lowlands.” The people that settled here historically faced a hard battle with the sea and were constantly threatened by floods and broken dykes. The last catastrophe was in 1953 when a storm on the North Sea caused huge surges and floods in South Holland (and in UK and Belgium, too). The old dykes and dams weren’t enough to hold back the water: thousands were killed and even more lost their homes.

{Click through for source}

After the disaster, the Dutch put their collective foot down and said, “no more.” An ambitious 50-year plan to strengthen flood defenses was conceived and named the Delta Works, involving sluices, dams and barriers. In 1998 the final piece was completed, the Maeslant Storm Barrier.

Located on the waterway between Rotterdam and the North Sea, just outside the town of Hoek van Holland, the storm barrier is a deceptively simple piece of engineering. Because Rotterdam is such busy port the waterway has to be kept open. So two giant “gates” were constructed that, in the event of a surge, could be moved together to protect the river.

Overlooking the barrier, Jesse sweeps his hand for dramatic effect.

Not only is the barrier itself fascinating, but the visitor’s center is decently interesting and informative, and on a sunny day was a pleasure to get to. Their website recommends taking the train to Hoek van Holland and renting bikes or a taxi–we still had our trusty 3 bikes, and rode the entire 9km on those, with plenty of stops for pictures.

Rachel and Alan on their bikes.

A bit of a quirky stop, the barrier shows a different side of the Netherlands: brilliant engineering, and a constant battle with the sea. More information here.

Rotterdam is a pretty spread-out city, with no discernible center. Luckily our bed and breakfast was actually a “Bed and Bike,” and came with some bikes to use. Equally lucky is how bike-able the city is: wide separated lanes, different signals, clear signs. What a joy!

A (blurry) while-riding picture showing the wide lanes.

We went to a good 5 or 6 museums while we were there, and instead of walking everywhere or waiting for trams, we just hopped on our bikes and sped off. So easy! I’m not sure I’ve really explored a new city by bike before, but I think it’s my new favorite way. Especially in the Netherlands.

We did have some small mechanical difficulties involving a fallen-off chain, a bent wheel, and some broken spokes. Dutch bikes are never coddled much.

Jesse and Alan hard at work. (Photo by Rachel Orrison)

We soon gave up on that bike altogether, and went the Dutch way: one person pedaling, one person riding on the back. I see it all the time in Amsterdam, and Jesse and I have tried it a few times, but never for so long. We went all over the city! Luckily we traded off who rode and who pedaled, so no one was stuck with extra weight for too long. (And luckily, I was always the extra weight…)

Rachel, riding in style

I have to say, this is the way to ride. Not only are you whizzing through the city on a (semi) comfy seat, you don’t have to look where you’re going, and can enjoy the scenery. Maybe even throw in a wave here and there, to various passersby.

(Photo by Rachel Orrison)

Biking really helped get the feel of the city. Rotterdam is known as a no-nonsense, working-class metropolis, as the saying goes: “Money is earned in Rotterdam, divided in The Hague and spent in Amsterdam.” It reminded me of some Pacific Northwest cities, with the grittiness of Seattle and the international diversity of Vancouver. It felt alive and livable, like a fun place to be on a Friday night. Next time!

{*You may have noticed the byline on some of these photos belong to my friend Rachel Orrison, who, along with her husband, is a fantastic photographer. Check out his portfolio (look for his Netherlands travel pics soon!) here.*}

The weather has not been friendly in Amsterdam lately. All last night I listened to the pounding rain and the blustering wind, and when I walked to the store yesterday I almost got blown into the street! So I figure today is a good time to relive a summer trip we took. I found photos I’ve never posted from a trip to Maastricht, Netherlands, right before we arrived in Amsterdam last August. May the blue skies and summer sunshine puncture the gray in my world and yours!

Maastricht is the southernmost city of the Netherlands, in a little hook of the country right between Belgium and Germany. We arrived there fresh from busy Paris, so the relief of a small cobbled town riddled with bicycles was perfect.

The city was started by the Romans (with ruins to show for it!) and has since passed through French, Belgian, German, and even Spanish rule. There aren’t any major sights to see–it’s just a pleasant university city with great restaurants and lovely streets to stroll. My favorite sight was a bookstore, in fact. A bookstore in an old 13th century church, a perfect example of great design and re-use. The soaring arches hold giant bookshelves, and the nave was transformed in a lovely cafe where you can sit and ponder the philosophical meaning of a cathedral of books. We left with David Mitchell’s The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet, appropriate since the main character is Dutch. (I recommend it–great historical fiction!)

Another day we rented bicycles and wheeled out of town, following the Maas River south. The day was hot and sunny and we said hello to some sheep on the way before we found ourselves in a beautiful hilly country of rivers, fields, small towns, and deserted roads. At one point we accidentally crossed into Belgium; all the street signs were suddenly in French! Stopping for lunch at a sweet local cafe, the owners brought us out still-warm bread with sliced cheese and meat drizzled in olive oil. Paired with a fresh Belgian beer it was a perfect feast for tired bicyclists!

We rolled back upriver into the Netherlands, back toward our cobblestone city, soaking up the sunshine. It’s memories like this that remind me the bluster of January has to end sometime!

It’s New Year’s Eve, and I can already hear the pops of fireworks going off this morning. Rumor is that Amsterdam is a pretty crazy place on this night every year, and we’ll be off to enjoy the spectacle later, though I doubt we’ll make it to 5am.

I’m not going to do any full Year in Review or New Year’s Resolution posts, so instead here’s a quick snapshot of things.

Something I’m better at now than when we arrived in Amsterdam:

Biking. I feel so Dutch. My beat-up bike is pure workhouse to me now, and I can carry heavy bags in one hand while steering with the other. I can bike in heels, boots, and flip-flops. I can even ride on the back of Jesse’s bike, which is extremely popular here.

Something I accomplished this year:

Crewel Embroidery, Woodland in Wool from Embroidery Companion

I made this forest scene for my dear friend, and since Christmas is done I can post it now! I really loved working on this with thick crewel wool, and following the colorful designs. The animals even turned out better than expected. I think I need to find more patterns like this.

Something I hope to accomplish next year:

My big goal is to finish my quilt. I’m hand-quilting it right now, stitch by stitch, every night before bed, and it’s actually moving along. I have hope!

Something I hope for next year:

Traveling. This first semester a lot of our money went to getting here, getting settled, getting residence permits, and all that. It got quite expensive. Next semester we’re hoping to budget a lot more of our money towards travel of the international variety. Plans are in the works to places like Edinburgh, Morocco, and Scandinavia! I’m practically gurgling with excitement.

While we wait for the big trips, I’d like to try to see more of the Netherlands. We can reach exciting new cities within 2 hours, so why not head out to see more? Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, and Dordrecht are all a quick trip away and make perfect day trips.

And, lest I get too much wanderlust, Things I feel blessed for:

Traveling to Paris, Prague, London, and calling Amsterdam our new home. Supportive family and friends back home. Friends in the city. Getting better at embroidering. Learning words in Dutch. Trying new food and exploring our city. Jesse getting his master’s in one year. Life.

View from Prague Castle

At the Tower of London

2011 has been pretty good to us, and I have high hopes for 2012. So Happy New Year to you all, and may the next year bring wonderful things!

It’s been our habit to head across town to the Noodermarkt every Saturday morning. It’s not really in our neighborhood, but it’s a nice bike ride. Around 11am, the streets along the harbor are clear of the usual crowd, and the air is crisp and lovely. Today was a beautiful sunny day, perfect for riding around.

The Noordermarkt is only one of several Amsterdam markets, but so far it’s the one we like best, probably because it reminds us of Portland’s Saturday morning market at the Park Blocks. A lot of Amsterdam markets sell clothes, shampoo, and nylons along with their fresh fish, which is great for deals, but not always as cute. This one is more of a true farmer’s market with piles of vegetables, jars of local honey, delicious smells wafting from the bakery cart, and old omas carrying their goods in woven baskets.

One booth sells homemade sauces out of big ceramic pots. Options are scrawled on chalkboard signs saying salsa verde, pesto, harissa, and coriander sauce. We went for the Tomatillo Salsa, and received two scoops in a glass jar. We can bring it back for a refill, he said. We will, we said. A few rows down we walked past a booth selling cheese, and had to give in. When you see little hearts of chevre in such a sweet basket, how can you resist?

The market sells antiques and vintage clothes, as well, which is always worth a look. Especially the book stalls with old brown books in different languages. So far I haven’t found an excuse to get a history of Holland in German, but it’s so pretty it might come home with me someday anyway.

On the way home we took our time riding along the canals, enjoying the sun and the crisp air. It was one of those days that’s truly chilly, but stand in the sunshine and you immediately warm up. We followed the Prinsengracht canal all the way south until it ran into the Amstel canal, then turned north for home.

I love riding around these canals. Up and down the rounded bridges, slowly swerving around people, watching the light filter through the leaves. It’s a good chance to remind myself that I live here, and life is good. It’s not that I doubted, it’s just that life is life wherever you live, and it’s often dull and tiresome and hard work. So it’s good to have the chance to remind yourself that you love it. Even better if that chance includes the sunlight bouncing off canals, the cool air in your face, a heart of chevre in your bag, and a city to explore.

Every time the sun shines I feel the need to be outside. I’ve learned my lesson from Portland, and from what I’m noticing around me, people here know the same secret! Enjoy the sun while you can. It’s been beautiful weather here, so on Saturday we took off on our bikes to explore the countryside a bit more. We made it past Muiden and all the way to Naarden, 23km away.

Naarden is a small town with a cute old center. The best thing about the city is the way it looks on a map or from above, actually. (That’s not an insult to Naarden. It just looks really cool.) Naarden is an example of what’s called a star fort, and because I’m not super interested in military history, that’s all I know. But, really, look at this. An old map, and a satellite view to prove that it really does look like that.

Isn’t that crazy? I’m so used to maps being a grid of square blocks and numbered streets that old European towns just thrill me. Each “star” is built from a fortified wall, and today you can go tour the shelters, cannons, and barracks that defended the city all the way up to WWII.

After our fill of forts, we cycled back to Muiden. I mentioned in a previous post that when we were here before we skipped the castle. This time, we went in!

The Muiderslot is the type of castle that you dream about as a kid, when you stand on your castle turret (back porch) and wave a silk handkerchief (paper napkin) at your departing hero (figment of my imagination). Or was that just me? Either way, this is the castle that fulfills all of your (my) dreams.

It’s small, but it’s got everything a real castle should have. Moat. Drawbridge. Murder holes above the drawbridge for hot lead. Towers. Spiral staircases inside the towers. Old rooms with skinny windows. Even chamber pots, which is great, because no one ever mentions that in history classes. They even have a falconry with demonstrations, and the coolest owls I’ve ever seen up close.

The castle was recently renovated, and has a great tour route to follow with plaques (English translations!) and displays throughout. It’s perfectly set up for kids to live their medieval dreams. We even saw a gaggle of princesses and knights, all dressed up. It was pretty cute.

I guess I should admit that the kids weren’t the only ones enjoying themselves. With swords to play with, a saddle to pretend-joust on, and knight helmets to try on, Jesse and I had a pretty good time, too.