Tryg,
What is the angle from your PJ lense to the center of your screen? From your superbowl party photo, it looks to be about 25 to 30 degrees. Also, it doesn't look like anyone at the party was suffering from off-axis viewing.

Ok, I recieved my 106" this Friday, after moving up from a 92" Graywolf II, for my Optoma HD72. First off, the smoothness and brightness are terrific. Seeing snow and skies without the texture of the GW interfereing in the image is amazing. I have a low ceiling mounted projector, and while the image does get slightly brighter if you stand up, it's perfectly fine while seated, and the viewing cone is no issue at all. Whe the green "This film has been rated.." screen comes up before a BluRay preview, it's so bright and sharp I practically need sunglasses!

Now the one issue I'm having. Blurays, HD DVDs and video games (Xbox 360 and PS3) all look terrific, much cleaner and brighter than before. However, HD cable looks much worse. Pixelation, motion artifacts, and grain are way magnified. Now this could have been a result of the GW II hiding alot of these defects with its high contrast gray nature, and now I'm seeing them more clearly. It could also be an effect of moving up from the 92" to the 106" I moved up because everyone always says if you buy a new screen to go big, since you can always make the image smaller, but you can never go bigger without a new screen, and I plan for this to be my last for a long while.

Did anyone else have similar experiences when they moved to an HP screen?
I feel kind of conflicted, I'm enjoying the clean bright images, but the flaws are really noticeable now. I tried recalibration the projector, but it didn't help that much. The seating as it stands now is at 11.5-12'. The theater room is in a basement with total light control. I was thinking I could move back from the screen a bit, but that would entail moving the whole room layout 90 degrees and moving all the equipment and furniture (due to the placement of beams).

Any ideas, suggestions, or experiences you guys could share?
Thanks
Jason

I have a few PMs asking me if I still love the Silverstar....yes. But I do like the added brightness and punch from the High Power on the larger screen.

Silverstar good for wider viewing angles, High Power the best for on axis viewing...

Absolutely Stunning!

Tryg,

Is this image a fair representation of the Silverstar, considering your flash and camera lens are in perfect position to take advantage of the Hi Powers retro reflective properties? I have a 120" SS, so of course Im intrigued by the photo. In the photo you have showing several screen samples and the ANSI contrast pattern, the SS clearly looks brighter.

Mark

EDIT.. On 2nd thought, maybe your camera/lens is not that well suited to the HP, or the SS. But maybe the SS could still look better if the flash were not directly in line with the lens. Anyway, just looking for more insight given the drastic difference shown in that photo.

I after nearly a full year of having my 139" wide model B (purchased from Jason at AVS) I am still thrilled at having purchased it. You have to see one to believe how great it really is. The small samples from dalite do not do the installed screen justice.

Here is my High Power screen install. It's a 126" perm-wall 2.37:1 screen. I used one of these heavy duty picture hanger / wall cleats to mount it into the dry wall instead of making holes for the entire screen perimeter. Pretty simple, it screwed in easy to the frame then I just a used couple of the included screws to mount it to the wall. I now have the flexibility of shifting the screen 5-10" left or right, and I can take it down with ease if need be.

I'm still waiting on my projector, but my initial impression is that you can really see the gain on this puppy. It's uniform too even being that wide, so it has the same brightness from end to end. I'll update with comments once my projector arrives about the viewing cone and how it looks.

ps. Ascend rocks my house...

I was under the impression that the PERM WALL Da-Lite screen came with a
silver frame but your screen has a black frame. Did you order the PRO TRIM?

Is this image a fair representation of the Silverstar, considering your flash and camera lens are in perfect position to take advantage of the Hi Powers retro reflective properties? I have a 120" SS, so of course Im intrigued by the photo. In the photo you have showing several screen samples and the ANSI contrast pattern, the SS clearly looks brighter.

Fair yes, perfect no. I am standing up so max gain of Silverstar would be below the lens. BUT with both screens perfectly on axis the High Power is slightly brighter.

Here is my High Power screen install. It's a 126" perm-wall 2.37:1 screen. I used one of these heavy duty picture hanger / wall cleats to mount it into the dry wall instead of making holes for the entire screen perimeter. Pretty simple, it screwed in easy to the frame then I just a used couple of the included screws to mount it to the wall. I now have the flexibility of shifting the screen 5-10" left or right, and I can take it down with ease if need be.

I'm still waiting on my projector, but my initial impression is that you can really see the gain on this puppy. It's uniform too even being that wide, so it has the same brightness from end to end. I'll update with comments once my projector arrives about the viewing cone and how it looks.

ps. Ascend rocks my house...

very nice. I'll post mine as soon as I get things cleaned up and get my CBIII upgrade back from Theta. Is that a cinema contour frame?

That's got to be one of the most useful ideas I've ever seen on this forum. Just wondering - did you only use one hanger at the top of your screen? If so, does the screen lie flat against the wall, or does it tilt down slightly? Seems like that could create a bit of keystoning in the image.

That's got to be one of the most useful ideas I've ever seen on this forum. Just wondering - did you only use one hanger at the top of your screen? If so, does the screen lie flat against the wall, or does it tilt down slightly? Seems like that could create a bit of keystoning in the image.

Not Jagercola but I've used the "hangman" type hangers on other things and yes they do stand out from the wall some.

I guess you could just use something to standoff/space the bottom of the screen so it's plum with the wall again. No heavier than these screens are you could probably just tape on some cotton balls or other pads to act as spacers for the bottom. You could run another hanger on the bottom also.

I hung the cinema contour frame with just the top hanger. There is a slight keystone as a result. I had to adjust the verticle to about -5. I'll add a velcro spacer to the bottom this w'end to flush it out. Shoudn't take that much.

That's got to be one of the most useful ideas I've ever seen on this forum. Just wondering - did you only use one hanger at the top of your screen? If so, does the screen lie flat against the wall, or does it tilt down slightly? Seems like that could create a bit of keystoning in the image.

I mounted my Permwall 106" HP today, but the material isn't taut, it sags leaving waves. I asked the seller about this and was told: "Not uncommon with the Permwall. What you have to do is mount the frame at the top and bottom as to make it more rigid." Does this sound right?

Yes I was told that the permwall would do that. It's designed to be rigidly mounted or braced on all four sides instead of just being hung. My understanding was/is the frame is not stiff enough on it's own to maintain tention.

edit:
I'd focus on stiffening the long horizontal frame members first as they are the most flexible due to their longer length.

I wonder if gussetting the frame would work without being noticed from the front?

If so you could cut some good sized triangluar pieces of plywood,mdf, osb,etc. and screw them into the corners on the back of the frame. This way you can still basically just simply hang the frame yet the frame has stiffness...just a thought anyway.

Another option to consider that works incredibly well; Buy whatever screen surface you like in a manual pull down version since it's usually about a quarter of a fixed frame screen price in it's equivalent size.

Then take it into your local picture framing shop and have them mount it onto a canvas frame so it's nice, tensioned and tight (just like a large painting) and have them frame it with whatever size velvet frame you want. It'll still come out costing half as much as buying a fixed frame screen with much more future flexibility.

Plus side to this is next time you want to change or upgrade your screen material you just buy another manual pulldown screen again at a quater of the cost. Take your existing screen into the picture framing shop and just have the new one mounted on the existing canvas frame or a new one so you can interchange them into the velvet frame when you feel like it. You already have the velvet frame and everything else so cost is very minimal.

That's my screen a couple of posts up. Just as a tip for those that want to try the hanger approach with the perm-wall. Snap together the entire frame and only the two corner bottom snaps, not any more on the bottom row. The material is so heavy, that it lays perfectly flat in the proper rectangle shape. So no more wrinkles. My hanger puts the screen like a half inch from the wall. I took one Styrofoam packing peanut and placed between the bottom of the screen and the wall. Perfect! Now if my RS1 would just get here, it's a long boat ride.

I saw my friend's 119" Model C pull-down High Power tonight with an out-of-the-box Pearl. The Pearl was on low lamp mode and the image looked fabulous (though uncalibrated) - lots of brightness. He had a seating arrangement much like mine, so the viewing cone was not an issue. He's ecstatic - and the picture still has a long way to go before it's optimized. Not a wrinkle in sight.

TRYG,
I am on the RS-1 pre-buy list (next shipment I hope). I have been reading a lot about screen material and would like your opinion on my current screen and configuration.
- I have a 92" diag. Stewart Greyhawk Screen.
- My room is 14' wide (screen wall) by 17' deep.
- My projector will be ceiling mounted 15" down from an 8' ceiling.
- I have painted a 10' wide by 5' section of panels on the ceiling in front of the screen, flat black (SW Promar 400).
- The proj lens will be 10"8" from the screen.
- My seating is 11'6" from the screen (proj pretty much over head).
- I have 4 theater seats in one row (all I have room for).
- My screen wall is a very deep, almost black, forest green color.
- Side walls are a light tan.
- I only use the proj. with all lights out, evenings.
While I plan on testing the RS-1 in the situation above, I am open to suggestions for improvement via changing the screen material. My one requirement is that it be Stewart as my Lexus Deluxe Screen Wall Frame is just to expensive to ditch. Do you recommend a change? If so, what would you recommend? Can I stay in the Stewart line and get better results?
Regards,
Dom

That's my screen a couple of posts up. Just as a tip for those that want to try the hanger approach with the perm-wall. Snap together the entire frame and only the two corner bottom snaps, not any more on the bottom row. The material is so heavy, that it lays perfectly flat in the proper rectangle shape. So no more wrinkles. My hanger puts the screen like a half inch from the wall. I took one Styrofoam packing peanut and placed between the bottom of the screen and the wall. Perfect! Now if my RS1 would just get here, it's a long boat ride.

I took another look at mine. Because of the way the hanger tucks into the back of the contour frame, there doesn't appear to be any out hang from the top of the screen to the bottom. The whole thing is laying flush against the wall with no daylight anywhere.

That's my screen a couple of posts up. Just as a tip for those that want to try the hanger approach with the perm-wall. Snap together the entire frame and only the two corner bottom snaps, not any more on the bottom row. The material is so heavy, that it lays perfectly flat in the proper rectangle shape. So no more wrinkles. My hanger puts the screen like a half inch from the wall. I took one Styrofoam packing peanut and placed between the bottom of the screen and the wall. Perfect! Now if my RS1 would just get here, it's a long boat ride.

The frame of 4 aluminum posts costs >$200 and it doesn't work as designed? And the answer is "yea, they do that", so do some jury-rig that minimizes the fault and live w/ it? What a POS product, or company, to continue to market a flawed product. It ain't like this thing has moving parts.

The frame of 4 aluminum posts costs >$200 and it doesn't work as designed? And the answer is "yea, they do that", so do some jury-rig that minimizes the fault and live w/ it? What a POS product, or company, to continue to market a flawed product. It ain't like this thing has moving parts.

And your negative comments about Da-Lite and their screen comes from what personal experience with it? And if you have none, then what possible credence do you expect anyone to give to your negative comments? Comments like this are of no benefit to anyone, even you.

And your negative comments about Da-Lite and their screen comes from what personal experience with it? And if you have none, then what possible credence do you expect anyone to give to your negative comments? Comments like this are of no benefit to anyone, even you.

I think smile is complaining about the limitations of the Permwall frame, not the Dalite screen material itself. It is a very inexpensive frame; it one wants a sturdier, more robust frame, then they need to shell out for the Cinema Contour or DaSnap.

I think smile is complaining about the limitations of the Permwall frame, not the Dalite screen material itself. It is a very inexpensive frame; it one wants a sturdier, more robust frame, then they need to shell out for the Cinema Contour or DaSnap.

I understand that, but the comments are negative generalizations about a company and a product that aren't based on fact. I didn't choose that frame because I wanted a rigid frame with a particular look (similar to my Stewart FireHawk frame). From what I've read, the Permwall works well (and as advertised) if you mount it the way the company suggests. It's not that the design itself is flawed, and I think it's inappropriate for someone to condemn a product and a company based on inaccurate information. It's not helpful and it's bad AVS etiquette.

I understand that, but the comments are negative generalizations about a company and a product that aren't based on fact. I didn't choose that frame because I wanted a rigid frame with a particular look (similar to my Stewart FireHawk frame). From what I've read, the Permwall works well (and as advertised) if you mount it the way the company suggests. It's not that the design itself is flawed, and I think it's inappropriate for someone to condemn a product and a company based on inaccurate information. It's not helpful and it's bad AVS etiquette.

Joe, I agree completely. The PW frame is designed to be screwed down firmly on all 4 sides. To try to side step this is asking for problems.