A French couple ordered house white, we tried economical red Alberese Pellegrone Morellino di Scansano produced on government-owned land (Pupille is a good traditional alternative). Others splurged on rarer wines, all from their well-furnished cantina downstairs. (“When businessmen are dealing in billions though, sometimes they just drink water,” notes Roberto.) One might wish for more romantic lighting or artsy decor, but flawless service pampers — relax and enjoy delightful but unpretentious formality.