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GHW9150PW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GHW9150PW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Removed the top of the washer by removing 3 screws on the back and sliding the top back and up. Removed the power cord and pipes. Next removed a screw holding the valve in place. Labeled the wires and pulled them off. The hard part was moving the locking tube ring further back on the tube before pulling the inlet tube off the valve. Reattach the black inlet tube and locking ring. I had to keep working it before it was in the right place. Some have mentioned that the hole didn't line up when they installed the valve. It turns out that there is a small slot in the plastic threaded tubes. One needs to wiggle the valve until the sheet metal rear wall fits in. Then the valve can be slid into position. Attach the mounting screw, hoses, top, power cord and try it out.

light was out of the ice machine in front and a shelf in the door broke.

it was very easy. the shelf snapped right into place and the light went right in. also, the handle on my Whirlpool washer was broken and a replaced it with a screwdiver. the parts came within two days. Excellent service. Thanks

Washer would stop at different times with code FH

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

washer was filling with water, while it wasn't being used.

shut off water valves, took out 3 torx screws that hold the top on, slid then top back just a bit and removed, took the hoses off, took the screw out that holds the water valve and lifted the valve up to remove the wires and hose. Put the wires and hose on the new valve and re-installed, connected the hoses and checked for leaks, put the top on called it a day.

Kept getting F2 code and washer wouldn't drain

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.

Easiest $300 I've ever saved!!!

Part was $150 and the going rate to replace the pump by a repair person is $300=$450. This was super easy and took about 15 minutes, including draining the old pump with my wet vac!! I messed around witht he old one trying to clean it, etc for several weeks because I'm cheap and didn't want to spend the $150. SPEND THE MONEY AND DO IT YOURSELF.

F/H error code

I replaced the flow meter but that want it, so replaced the water inlet valve and that cured what ailed it. The only pain was that the single screw that holds the part to the washer is a torx rather than a nut like the rest of the back screws. Couldn't see it without pulling the washer all the way out. Hose clamp came off with pliers and the electrical connectors were TIGHT but came off with some effort. Replaced everything and error cleared ok.