So, coming this summer (like all good blockbuster movies) it’s time to start the engine rebuild on the Targa.

I found a great rebuild wizard over at Pelican Parts listing each step and even with links to the parts that need to be bought. Clearly intimidating for a novice brown-thumbed garage buffoon like myself but quite exciting. I have to spend a lot of time consuming these instructions to see if I am up to the gig!

In this particular step, I tell you about the informational resources that I recommend you acquire prior to performing your rebuild. Information is key to success, particularly when performing a 911 engine rebuild. With the proper knowledge, you can avoid some very common and potentially costly mistakes.

Also of paramount importance is the use of the right tool for the job. I’m a firm advocate of doing the work yourself. However, if you don’t have the correct tool for the job, there is a chance that you may end up with shoddy work, resulting in a poor-running and leaky engine. Using the proper tool for the job and not taking unnecessary short-cuts is a principle I stand by whether you’re working on your car or around the house.

There are a few special materials, glues and sealants that I have found to work very well in 911 engine rebuilds. In this step, I discuss some details about each, and where they are required in your engine.

The good thing about gasket sets is that they cover just about every little rubber gasket that you need – regardless of whether you are rebuilding the top end or are tearing apart the entire engine. In this section, I give a brief description of what’s in the gasket sets and how each gasket fits into your engine rebuild.

Finally, we begin to tackle the actual rebuild process. There are many parts on the bottom end that need to be replaced. Some can be reused as well, and I detail which ones you might want to replace for extra assurance.

Pistons and cylinders are very important parts to inspect and replace if worn out. Along with the P&Cs, this section addresses the infamous head stud issue, and which studs you should use in your rebuild.

Although most people leave the cylinder heads to the care of their trusted machine shop, in this section we detail the parts that comprise the cylinder heads. Springs, valves, and guides are detailed within Step 7.

Porsche 911 engines have had many problems with chain tensioners over the years. Failure of a chain tensioner can lead to complete destruction of your engine. Step 9 reviews the various chain tensioner upgrades and enhancements that Porsche has developed over the years to make the 911 engine more reliable.

While I can’t go into the details of every variation of fuel system used on the 911 engine, this particular section reviews the common components that you should replace while you have access to the fuel injection and other areas on the top of the engine.

Nothing looks better on your newly rebuilt engine than a new stainless steel muffler or heat exchangers. In addition to overhauling exhaust components, you should replace oil lines that are cracked and old, along with a few other items like motor mounts.

Couldn’t be more excited and I definitely woke up with a gleam in my eye this morning. I’m going to collect the Porker today. So excited, soooo excited, I cant type…. #waaaaaaaaaaah

OK.

Calm Down.

Deep Breathing.

So, I get to collect the 911 from the previous owners garage, along with a few boxes of spare parts that he had previously unbolted in his failed attempt at renovation. The engine should be dry of oil but I will be flushing and cleaning it out. The engine looks to be at least 90% intact and the only main thing that needs fitting are the new injectors (already in a box) and to be cleaned up and then spun up to see whats UP!

The fuel tank is out, after being repaired from a split seam. While this is slightly worrying, I will check it out and it doesn’t sound big enough to scare me that much.