Good Manufacturing Practices, What to Watch at in-cosmetics 2014, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Early February 2014

Posted: February 11, 2014

BASF was listed as one of the top Global 100 Most Sustainable Corporations in the World on the Global 100 Index. The company was ranked 12th in the listing.

SGS awarded Sederma with its cosmetic ingredient Good Manufacturing Practices certification. Following an in-depth audit of its manufacturing, testing and storage processes, Sederma was assessed as meeting the requirements of the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI) guide for good manufacturing practices.

BioScreen Testing Services announced the addition of Total Organic Carbon instrumentation with the purchase of a Shimadzu TOC-Vwp Total Organic Carbon Instrument. The new 21 CFR part 11 compliant, state-of-the-art instrument detects TOC using a non-purgeable organic carbon (NPOC) technique where inorganic carbon is purged from purified water samples before oxidation and detection and is accurate in the 10-500 ppb range. This system uses a high-sensitivity NDIR (nondispersive infrared) detector which achieves ultra-high sensitivity measurements using powerful sample oxidation through a combination of persulfate, phosphoric acid, UV illumination and heating Sensitivity and accuracy are also enhanced by minimizing the reagent blanks that may hinder accurate analysis.

Inolex’s manufacturing facility in Philadelphia was awarded the EFfCl certification for Good Manufacturing Practices for cosmetic Ingredients. This certification was designed by the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients.

Seppic and its partners in Project Algraal recently came together in Castres to mark the official launch of the project. Project Algraal was selected as a projet d’excellence by France’s Department of Competitiveness, Industry and Services in connection with the 16th call for tenders of the Single Inter-Ministerial Fund. Seppic will lead Project Algraal, the goal being to develop a new algal-based source fatty alcohols and emulsifiers for the beauty industry. This three-year project brings together four partners from the private sector (Seppic, Fermentalg, La Mesta and Vegeplast) and three from the public sector (the University of Le Havre, INP/ENSIACET and INRA). The project also is being supported by Seppic customers such as Clarins and Yves Rocher, who are ready to use this new raw material in their product formulations.

Versalis, the chemical subsidiary of Eni, and Elevance Renewable Sciences signed a memorandum of understanding to establish a strategic partnership to jointly develop and scale a new metathesis technology to produce bio-chemicals from vegetable oils. Versalis and Elevance intend to focus on jointly developing and scaling new catalysts, leveraging the progress of this technology that has been already accomplished by Elevance. In addition, the partners will assess the design and construction of ethylene metathesis-based production, which will utilize renewable oils at the Versalis Porto Marghera site. The market applications of the future bio-chemicals production will be personal care, detergents and cleaners, bio-lubricants and oilfield chemicals.

Recent findings that reveal the pathogenic role of a widely studied bacterium called Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) has prompted many academic researchers to rethink how acne vulgaris develops and how it may be better managed. Previously, P. acnes was considered by researchers to further inflame skin, following the establishment of acne lesions. New research now suggests certain strains of the bacterium may play a more direct role in acne formation. Academic and skin care industry scientists from around the world recently gathered at Ashland’s Avant Institute Symposium to learn more about the details of this acne research and to apply the information in their own studies.

CareSil, the high-purity silicone brand from NuSil Technology, received accolades in formulation excellence at the Cosmetagora Formulation Competition for its water in silicone (W/Si) Mousse Velours foundation.

The Coptis Lab software is offering new features. They include a global regulatory review of a formula in real time, and CNPC functionality management of the section “Category and Frame-formula.”

Looking to in-cosmetics 2014

Croda is highlighting new launches, products and initiatives at in-cosmetics 2014. They include OleoCraftPolymers, a range of oil-structuring polymers that can create films on the skin, lip and eyelash, providing water and wear resistance in color cosmetic and sun care applications; Volarest FL, a polymer designed to enhance the consumer’s experience with a controlled, targeted delivery from sprayable emulsions, novel textures and the weightless suspension of emollients and beads in low viscosity fluids; Solaveil ST-100, which provides a sensational skin feel with a titanium dioxide dispersion that combines UV performance with enhanced aesthetics; Keramimic 2.0, a keratin quat developed using recent advances in proteomics; and Sensification, an easy-to-use system that allows formulators and marketers to navigate the landscape of sensory descriptors in a clear and defined way. The company will also offer an Innovation Seminar and feature demos at the Innovation Zone.

Clariant will exhibit new beauty inspirations with a natural twist at this year’s in-cosmetics event. Emerging from its Secret Code of Beauty concept, Clariant’s latest ingredients and concepts will reflect consumers’ desires for all that is inspired by nature in personal care. in-cosmetic attendees can learn more about Clariant’s new EcoTain for Personal Care concept, as well as its Nipaguard Zero, an alternatives to parabens, halogens and formaldehyde donors based on 100% renewable Velsan SC synergistic booster; naturally derived emulsifiers; and Clariant’s Plantasens range. The company also is an official sponsor of the Innovation Zone and will deliver two lectures during the event.

Beraca was invited by in-cosmetics to be the sponsor of its first Country Focus feature for the 2014 edition, which will shed a light on Brazil’s beauty and personal care market. As part of the Brazil Trail feature, Beraca will present its Sociobiodiversity Enhancement Program, an initiative encouraging companies to use natural and organic ingredients sustainably sourced from Brazil’s flora. The company also will take part in in-cosmetics’ Innovation Seminars program, with a presentation on Beraca’s Patauá Oil by R&D supervisor Juliana Tiberio Checon.

Dow Corning announced it will launch a new portfolio of silicones for skin and hair care products and new formulation concepts to help customers address global beauty care industry trends at in-cosmetics 2014. Additionally, the company will deliver a presentation highlighting its advances in silicone technologies for water-in-oil emulsions. Dow Corning also plans to spotlight a newly launched micro-emulsion product for hair repair and color protection. The Dow Corning CE-1874 micro-emulsion is a silicone material suited for use in sulfate-free systems that imparts hair repair and color protection benefits to shampoos without sacrificing hair volume. The company will also feature a new guide for hair care manufacturers that assists in formulating products capable of taming frizzy, flyaway hair. Additionally, the company’s portfolio of aqueous-based silicone solutions, also to be displayed in an new formulation kit, enable customers to modify the texture, feel and appearance of water-based formulations in a unique way to develop lighter and fresher skin care, color cosmetics and sun care products.

Also at in-cosmetics 2014, Naolys will launch a plant cell complex called HydraSourcing [AM+PS], made of a whole native cell of Argemone Mexicana and containing not only its own active molecules but also natural polysaccharids to get a greater effect in skin hydration. As a natural plant cell complex dedicated to mature skis, HydraSourcing [AM+PS] provides hydration by increasing not only the percentage of dynamic and static water and percentage of lipids (ceramides and free fatty acids) in the epidermis, but also the percentage of glycosaminoglycans in the dermis. It is non allergenic, preservative free, and can be used in any formulation from skin care to makeup applications.

New Launches

Croda launched its latest product, Crodabond CSA, an ingredient designed to seal down hair cuticles that have been lifted through damaging chemical treatments. Hair treated with Crodabond CSA appears smooth, conditioned and healthy-looking. For the hair care industry, the desired hairstyle is often only achievable through harsh chemical treatments and processes such as coloring, relaxing or perming. After these types of styling processes are complete, an intense conditioning treatment is often recommended to repair the damage and to condition the hair. To address this need, the cuticle-sealing performance of Crodabond CSA is proven to be long-lasting and can help prevent future hair damage for the consumer. The long-lasting effects of Crodabond CSA also give the consumer the confidence that their desired look is achievable without affecting the health of their hair long-term.

People News

Dr. Chris Dederen, an R&D specialist for Croda’s consumer care sector, was announced as the winner of the Allan R. Black award for 2013, for best presentation at the 2012 annual conference for Society of Cosmetic Chemists, for his presentation “Sensory Mapping Methodology Detects the Substantial Perceptible Effects of Emulsifiers in Emulsions.”

Fitz Chem announced Angela Johnson as the newest addition to its care chemicals team. Johnson joins as a business development specialist, bringing expertise in personal care, HI&I and food markets. She will be working with customers throughout the Midwest in this newly created role and also will be championing key projects for Fitz Chem’s care chemicals business growth.