Monday, December 28, 2009

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009Azienda Agricola FataloneFatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005 Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.2 stars

Vini CoppiCoppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.1 star

Cantine LanzollaCantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.1 star

Cantine di Scj'oScj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.1 star

Cantine del ColleCantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani RaffaeleGiuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.2 stars

Azienda Agricola CannitoCannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.1 star

Azienda Agricola PlantamuraPlantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.1 star

Cantine GuttaroloGuttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.86-8**

PietraventosaPietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

PolvaneraPolvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.2 stars

ChiaromonteChiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.1 star

Friday, December 11, 2009

Brunello di Montalcino has a certain mystique to it, and I was therefore quite flattered when Carlo Macchi called to ask if I wanted to come to a Brunello vertical he was organizing. Especially because Carlo was selecting the wines; and was going a ways back: The first wine was a 1982, and therefore predated much of the “innovation” that has swept though Montalcino and the rest of Italy since then. And what do I mean by “innovation?”

First of all, the use of barriques, the small (225 liter) French oak barrels that have a tremendous impact upon the wine they contain – in 1982 most everyone was still using botti, large oak casks that allow microxygenation through the pores in the staves, but have considerably less impact upon the wines. Second, the search for ripeness and concentration, the “gobs of fruit” one finds mentioned in glowing terms in certain publications that had (and have) a tremendous influence on winemakers, many of whom reworked their wines to make them more appealing to said publications.

None of that in 1982, as it was all in the future. Truth be told, there wasn't much of it by the early 1990s either (even in wineries that have changed greatly since then), and with the final wines (we finished with a 1999) Carlo selected producers less subject to the siren's call.

Bottom line, Carlo provided us with a beautiful look at Brunello as it used to be, and it was fascinating to see how the wines had developed. Because they did, very well, displaying a richness and depth that were in some cases simply extraordinary. And that more recent wines by the wineries that have since changed course, becoming softer, smoother and more approachable, simply lack.

The Wines

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 1982Pale brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, alas, though leather and warm acidity do emerge, supported by leafiness. It must have been quite acidic in its youth, because the acidity carries quite well even now. On the palate it's tart, and quite dry, with sour berry fruit supported by clean leathery tannins that flow into a rather tart savory finish. It's like looking across a divide; though the bottle is a little off it does express an otherwordly quality and a generational divide. Interesting, and a window into the past.

Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino 1983Lively almandine with brownish rim and reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with sour berry fruit and a fair amount of acidity supported by clean leathery accents and hints of leaf tobacco. Great depth, and there are also hints of eucalyptus and dried leaves. Quite elegant, and has a lot to say, a wine one can converse with though it does most of the talking. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by slightly bitter tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. Quite impressive,a nd displays a great deal of depth; it also has an otherworldly feel to it, and is one of those wines that will continue to mature indefinitely thanks to the acidity of its backbone. Goes on and on, and though it doesn't present unified front – a fellow taster says scomposto, which means disjointed – it has a great deal to say and is a wine that excites all the senses. Grandioso, and the imperfections make it even more so. With time continues to evolve, and does all sorts of interesting things, in particular intriguing hints of cumin emerge after a while, and it smooths very nicely on the palate. An eternal wine.94

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly mature, with wet leather, underbrush, menthol, which increases with time, savory accents, alcohol, and some sour berry fruit. Quite nice in a powerful, mature key, and it shows considerable polish. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a velvety purr and flow into a clean bright cherry finish. Considerable grace and elegance in a considerably more polished key than the Soldera; a fellow taster says, and he's right, that it's very good but more obvious. And it is; there are fewer secrets to plumb. But very fine; it's like looking at a Caanova statue. Very pleasant on the palate too, and does increase in complexity with time.92-3

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 1986Fairly rich garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with spice and slight greenish accents mingled with leather and bitterness, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Very fine, and there are also some animal notes. On the palate it's full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet savory tannins that have a slightly leathery burr and flow into a clean bright sour finish with considerable underlying bitterness. Great elegance, and it is a wine that matches the Caparzo style, which has been remarkably consistent over the years, and takes many years to come out: The initial post-release impressions are usually not that good, but here we see what it can do given time. In short, Brunello begs patience, and the older styles of this kind even more. True to type, and impressive. It will age indefinitely.93

Talenti Podere Pian di Conte Brunello di Montalcino 1987Paler almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. It looks a little more mature than some of the other wines. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory sea salt and some dried flowers, mingled with leaf tobacco and very slight animal tang. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have pleasant savory accents and a slightly leather tongue-drying finish that will make it very nice with succulent red meats. Elegant, and very pleasant though a touch lower than the others, and this is in part the vintage, which wasn't quite as rich as, say, the 1985.2 stars

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 1988Corked, alas. What manages to escape the corkage suggests that a good bottle would have been very nice, and quite solid.

Casanova di Neri Brunello Riserva 1990Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim, paling to onionskin at the top. The bouquet is intense, with green leather and cut leaf tobacco, which is stronger here than it was in some of the other wines; quite elegant in a mature key, and though it's not as multifaceted as some of the other older wines, there is a monolithic beauty to it. With time leather and leaf tobacco become more intense. Quite harmonious, and one could swish and sniff for a long, long time. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by brisk slightly bitter acidity, and by smooth sweet silky tannins that are a touch dry in the very finish, and flow into a clean rather dry finish with savory accents and some sour berry fruit acidity. It's quite pleasant, and very much approachable, a wine that will work quite well with foods and will make a huge impression if broken out at a festive meal, but I found it a little more direct than I might have wanted – it's statuesque and beautiful, bit lacking in depth, and I attribute this to a relative lack of acidity – there is acidity sufficient to provide direction, but it's not really bright. The Italian word that comes to mind is Mastodontico, which means hulking.88-90

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 1993Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with hints of wood smoke and bitterness supported by leather and some leaf tobacco, also licorice root and with time mentholated and balsamic accents, while leather also increases. On the palate it's full, and bright, with clean sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have some leafy underbrush bitterness and flow into a clean rather bitter sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and I found myself preferring it to the Casanova di Neri 1990 Riserva, because it is brighter and much more nimble on its toes than the Riserva. Both of the Casanova di Neri wines display a degree of savoriness that the Casanova di Neri of today lacks. Much has changed at Casanova di Neri since these wines were made, and I discuss some of the changes in another vertical, here.90-92

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 1996Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, and though others mutter about corks I find more menthol and cold coffee with some rather musty bitter orange peel and balsamic accents, and some savory accents too. On the palate it's fairly rich, though not too full, with sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and graceful in a lesser vintage key; it's not quite as bright as some of the vintages but has a willowy grace to it that is very nice. A beautiful wine, and one that has a great deal to say, for those who want to take the time to listen to it.93

Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino 1997Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; by comparison with many of the other wines the almandine is much younger looking. The bouquet is quite different with respect to the others, with mentholated notes and some spice, mingled with toasted wood and hints of cat pee, which become sweaty with time; a fellow taster talks about the scent of a burnt steak bone atop coals. It engenders considerable discussion. On the palate it's sour, with leathery sour accents and fairly intense minerality supported by bitter fruit bitter tannins that flow into a savory bitter finish. I found it more interesting on the plaate, where there is more to plum and think about than on the nose. The palate is bright, and has a fair amount to say, in a bright key, and is quite approachable; it will work very well with succulent red meats or similar, though I might not want to sip it far from the table.88-90

Tenuta Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry acidity and leathery accents mingled with alcohol and some peppery spice with slight berry fruit acidity as well, and hints of spice. Great depth and considerable harmony too. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity that also has some red currant acidity, and is supported by smooth rather dry tannins that will do a fine job of supporting foods but are a bit too dry to work well sipping. A very fine wine that will drink well with foods, and still needs another few years to come into its own. Intriguing menthol on the nose that emerges with time. I was initially nonplussed by the 1998 vintage, but have begun to reevaluate it The 98s need time, and though not all are great many have improved considerably.90

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a distinct change with respect to the other wines poured, with considerable mentholated spice mingled with berry fruit and cedar. It has a more international feel to it. On the palate it's ample, bright, and young, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very young, in a fairly international key, and is quite approachable; by comparison with some of the others it is much less faceted, and offers much less to think about. But it will drink well with foods, and is a wine I would be happy to serve to friends who are more likely to pour, drink, and enjoy a wine than to spend time thinking about what's in their glass. It's more polished, and more ammiccante – giving a come-hither look -- than some of the others, and a world apart from Case Basse and some of the other older wines. Here we see the arrival of the more international style, and a conscious desire to make wines that are more approachable and easier to drink. And it certainly was more approachable in 2003, upon its release, but is less interesting now, and with time it will separate further from the more traditional, Brunelli.2 stars

Wednesday, December 09, 2009

The first day of our trip to Puglia began with a presentation of wines from Northern Puglia: a few whites, a few rosès, and then a selection of reds, most of which are based on Uva di Troia.

Since Uva di Troia starred, a quick introduction:

Uva di Troia, which is also called Nero di Troia (the terms are used interchangeably, and a fellow taster found a bottle that used both, Uva di Troia on the front label and Nero di Troia on the back label), is grown north of Bari. It's not the easiest grape to work with, according to Rivera's Sebastiano De Corato, who told me, a few years ago, that it was traditionally grown for volume, and therefore farmers preferred clones that produced large compact bunches, with fairly large grapes. Because of this bunch structure, ripening tended to be uneven, and as a result almost every bunch had a few unripe grapes, which contributed harsh unripe tannins. Rivera was propagating Nero di Troia vines (from their vineyards) that produce smaller, looser bunches of grapes that ripen more uniformly, and I am certain others are working along these lines too.

Despite its power and structure, I find Nero di Troia to have remarkably delicate aspects, especially on the nose, which can exhibit enticing floral aromas in addition to delicate prune and plum fruit (we are in Puglia, and the grapes do ripen). The wines can also exhibit cedary notes, and hints of seed spices such as cumin, and while one might be tempted to attribute these characteristics to oak, I think some of the more delicate nuances instead derive from the grapes. Unfortunately, if the wine spends time in wood (especially small wood), these characteristics are quickly masked, and then one notes cedar, oak, and oak tannins that Nero di Troia really doesn't need.

Nero di Troia is quite capable of standing on its own two feet without the aid of crutches, and I found myself best liking its younger expressions, those fermented in steel, aged briefly in steel (or cement), and then bottled. Barrique-aged Nero di Troia looses these delicate facets and is therefore much more anonymous, and -- to be frank -- mostly indifferent to humdrum.

Bottom line: Nero di Troia can be beautiful when it's young and fresh, and in years in which there is more acidity would also expect these young fresh wines to age nicely, because they certainly have the necessary backbone. But I don't think it needs much help in the cellars: Perhaps a brief spell in large oaken casks, but not small oak barrels. They strip it of everything.

And now the wines, in the order tasted:

Tenuta Fujanera Falanghina Puglia IGT 2008Bright rather lively gold. The bouquet is fresh, young, and rather floral, with ripe fairly sweet melon as well and some acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite mineral, with bitter minerality and some citric acidity that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish.1 star

Valle Dell'Elce Dauina IGT Bianco Puglia 2008 This is Greco and Bombino Bianco; it's brassy gold with brassy reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, and smoky, with considerable gunflint and some underlying metallic acidity - there is some oxidation here, and a fellow taster finds quince jam as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with lively mineral acidity that becomes steadily more savory as it fades. It's interesting but has peaked, I think.1 star

Botromagno Poggio al Bosco Gravina DOC 2008Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant greenish herbal notes, hints of sage and some honeydew melon and hints of elicriso (the herb). It has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively savory minerality and warm citric acidity as well, with some greenish artichoke petal tannins as well that flow into a warm dry savory finish; it's quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or white meats, including creamy dishes.2 stars

Alberto Longo Donnadele Negroamaro Puglia Rosato IGT 2008 Pale salmon pink, with brilliant salmon reflections. It looks scarico, which means unloaded, and brings to mind more a Bardolino Chiaretto than a southern wine. The bouquet is quite fresh, with mineral acidity and some red berry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry currant acidity that flow into a clean bright red currant finish. Quite pleasant, and very fresh especially considering that it's already a year old; it will age nicely for another year and be nice with picnic foods, fish, and vegetable based pasta dishes or soups.2 stars

Tarantini Petrigama Rosato Castel del Monte DOC 2008This is from Bombino Nero grapes, which are only used to make roses; it's a very pretty lively pink with brilliant highlights and pale white rim. The bouquet is a bit off, with berry fruit mingled with fresh yogurt - the aroma that emerges from the yogurt machine when you remove the cover - and this is likely something related to the yeasts. On the palate it's more interesting, with fairly rich, soft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with hints of lactic acid - the nose emerging again. It's better on the palate, but a bit lax, and I'll be curious to taste the next vintage.1 star

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel del Monte DOC 2008Lively pink with brilliant pink reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and pleasant spicy herbal accents. Nice, in a welcoming key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some sweet tannins, and moderate acidity that's not quite as bright as it might have been; and flows into a clean berry fruit finish with some hints of plum. It's pleasant, and very approachable, but slightly lacking in acidity, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. But it will drink well with foods. Just that it's a tad direct.2 stars

Rasciatano Vigne di Rascialone Rosè IGT Puglia 2008 Salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is powerful and pungent, with leafy underbrush and savory accents, also bitterness. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that has a slight milky feel to it, and slight tannins.1 star

Colle Petrito Ferula Rosato Castel Del Monte DOC 2008Lively rosy pink with brilliant reflections and white rim, The bouquet is fairly intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with chemical accents and some spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. Up front, and not as fresh as it was a few months ago, alas. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate acidity supporting rather nondescript fruit. It has held up fairly well, but at this point needs the new vintage to step in for it.1 star

Colle Petrito Iaccio della Portata Nero di Troia Puglia IGT 2008Deep cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with warmth and underbrush mingled with some berry fruit and slight balsamic notes; swishing also brings up some herbal accents and a slight sweetness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cedar-laced bitter minerality and dry cedary tannins (from grape) that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Not much richness of fruit; the wine revolves more around minerality and bitterness, and some iodine also emerges in the finish.1 star

Donna Cecilia Vino Rosso IGT Daulina 2008Lively pinkish ruby with dark reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and plum cherry fruit supported by some residual sugars that confer jaminess, and by spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a rather opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean dry tannic finish with berry fruit overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews.2 stars

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2007Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with iodine and underbrush mingled with berry fruit, some spice, and delicate floral overtones. Nice depth, and graceful. On the palate it's full, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and nicely displays the potential of Nero di Troia done in steel: Interesting fruit, interesting floral accents, nice tannins, and nothing to get in the way or mask it. It will drink very well with roasts or stews, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly. One of the finest Nero di Troia wines presented, and the floral accents on the nose, which are delicate enough that oak would mask them, make it even more interesting.90

Tenuta Fujanera Arrocco Nero di Troia 2008Cherry ruby with pink cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with sugary plum fruit supported by jam; it gives an impression of considerable ripeness, and there are also some greenish vegetal notes that are well integrated. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with plum fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary accents to them, not much in the way of acidity, and some jammy accents. Very fruit forward and soft; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter wines it won't work for you.1 star

Tarantini Petrigama Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2008Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with candied fruit mingled with acidity and spice, with hints of medicine cabinet as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather thin, with moderate nondescript fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a rather quick finish. I found it to be rather dilute.1 star

Antica Enotria Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some sour berry fruit and smoke, and greenish accents as well, and fair acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and sfot, with bitter berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a cedar-laced finish. It's a bit disjointed, and I found myself wanting more.1 star

Santa Lucia Vigna del Melograno Uva di Troia Castel del Monte Rosso 2007Impenetrable pyrope ruby with purple reflections and deep ruby rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is enticing, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity; it's welcoming in a decidedly opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar overlay, and by acidity that provides direction, flowing into a fairly dry savory finish with leafy underbrush tannins that have savory accents as well. It will work well with food and is pleasant in a fruit driven key, while the tannins will help it to accompany succulent meats or roasts. Versatile, and enjoyable.2 stars

Cantina La Marchesa Il Nerone della Marchesa Vino Rosso IGT Daunia This is named after La Marchesa's grandfather, who was nicknamed Il Nerone. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight vegetal accents. Quite pleasant to sniff, in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's a little thinner than one might have expected on the palate, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.2 stars

Vigne di Rascitano Rasciatano Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some lactic acid mingled with some berry fruit and some wood smoke as well. Not exciting, and tired. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate fruit and a fair amount of wood that leads into a decidedly savory finish.1 star

Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia IGT Puglia 2007Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and spice mingled with some brisk acidity and some balsamic notes with underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and tannins that have some cedary accents, and flow into a clean rather savory finish. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose, which is in an interrogatory phase. It needs time, a year or two.

Torrevento Matervitae Aglianico Puglia IGT Rosso 2007Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and greenish grilled pepper, with a fair amount of spice and some cedar as well. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's rich and languid, with chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and is also a very distinct change of pace with respect to the other wines poured at the tasting.2 stars

Botromagno Pier Delle Vigne Murgia Rosso IGT 2003This is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with green leather, minerality, and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Nice balance in a distinctly more mature key, but then again it is a 2003. And it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warm sour cherry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with lasting acidity. Very fresh for a 2003, especially considering how hot it was, and a pleasant wine that will work very well with succulent roasts or stews. It wasn't a revelation, because I have tasted Botromagno's wines before, but is very nice, with considerable depth and elegance.88-90

Rivera Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Castel del Monte 2008Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by some iodine and slight lactic acid. Non-descript. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by terrific cedar that flows into a tart cedar laced finish. Oak in a glass, and it completely overpowers the fruit. A pity, because Nero di Troia can do much more.1 star

Valle dell'Elce Rosso Essenziale IGT Daunia Rosso 2008Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet opulent, with jammy red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some spice. It comes across as fairly sweet. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate berry fruit acidity; it gives an impression of trying very hard, but (for me) it comes up a bit short.1 star

Torrevento Vigna Quarrate Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005Black cherry ruby with jammy berry fruit supported by spice; nice depth and elegance. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. On the palate it has a slightly dilute feel; the tannins step in and are a touch drier than one might have expected, bit the wine will work quite well with foods.2 stars

Finally, two Nero Di Troia wines tasted the night before the general tasting:

Cefalicchio Rosato Ponte della Lama Puglia IGT 2008This is 100% Nero di Troia; it's a brilliant pomegranate red that's quite pretty. The bouquet is clean, with floral-herbal accents and some red berry fruit mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of savory acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively minerality and bright tannins with a burr that leads into a clean bitter finish. It's more the little brother of a red than a classic rosè, and one can taste the limestone the vines draw their life from. Quite pleasant and will work very well with a wide variety of foods, ranging from cold cuts and fairly fresh cheeses though pasta and soups, and also with simple meats. In a word, versatile, and though many 2008 rosès are by now beginning to tire this one hasn't at all, and was still bright after an hour in the glass. Impressive.90

Cefalicchio Romanico Nero di Troia Rosso di Canossa Riserva DOC 2005Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and violet rim. Tremendous color. The bouquet is powerful, with musty underbrush and savory spice mingled with wet leaves, minerality, and some gunflint. Considerable depth, and has a lot to say; as it opens it reveals all sorts of facets, in particular intriguing hints of crushed almonds. On the palate it's ample and rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quick to write but pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, especially more succulent meats as the tannins do a fine job of clearing the palate. It's fruit rich but not a fruit bomb, and is a fine food wine that will also age nicely for at least 5 years.90

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.