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for lower rail setting. If the "tooth of the circle saw" cuts to the right, you have to move the camera to the right looking through viewfinder. If it cuts to the left, move to the left mm by mm. At least you should have 3 sets for example: LRS 54 cuts to the right, 55 has no teeth at all, 56 cuts to the left. 55 will be your lower rail setting.
This method is because of the workflow more exact than simply to focus down to the logo and and center the focus ring to the middle. This helps for the first orientation. Use for example f22, go down to -15º, focus to the rotator, and take the shots around. The easiest workflow is to take a set of three settings in one go, 54, 55, 56 before importing the pictures to the computer and PTGui Pro to stitch them. Import, align, go to "advanced", "optimizer" and set "heavy and lens shift". This is default in the new beta version of PTGuipro. After optimizing use "Control points" of the top tab and click "delete the worst control points".

In Create panorama check the panorama settings and set them to 360 x 180. In "create" use ".mov" as output setting. Open up the mov file, move down to the nadir and check the rotator. you can easily zoom in to check it more exactly. Once you are used to this workflow, it is easy to do and you get a better result than just using the logo.

would be nice. Cause I am a Nikonian. I can test Nikon Equipment. But I have little chance to get my hand on Canon equipment.

My offer to all dutch new Canon Nodal Ninja Users: you may come to see me, I can show you how to find the upper and lower rail settings for NN panoheads from NN3 MKII, NN4, NN5, M1, to R1. Inclusive Nadir Adapter use with hard- and software. You may test the Pole System and I can give you some info about the use of PTGuiPro Software to get a good result from a brilliant hardware and software. For nothing, for me it helps to get a certified new database for Canon NN Users for the new models. Just send an IM. Bring your camera and lens, a USB stick and on we go.

Could anybody tell me the NPP setting for the Canon 8-15 on an R10 @ 7.5° up 4 shots @ 12.5mm.
On the M1 that I tested with the Canon 8-15 on an 5D MII I had the following setting:
Lower rail 169mm
Upper rail 110.5mm @ 7.5° up.
The point is at the front edge of the lens hood mount.
See this > http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Canon_8-...oParallaxPoint

After spending a lot of time with trial and error shooting I’m at 11mm with the R10-7.5°. It’s not perfect as my
M1 settings yet. If there are extremely close by object there are still minor shifts in the stitching zone.

I just receive the new lens ring for this lens, and trying it directly using Fanotec P1 Pole + R1, shot using 5D mark II @ ISO 2500

My settings was at 1.85mm @ 5° tilt. The pole was only extended half way until eye level (since i do the test it inside my house..:D).

Some very2 minor errors are barely visible at he ceiling edge above the picture frame above the piano and also at the ceiling near the pillar (directly above the trash bin)...quick touch up at image editor will solve this. And I think if I do the test outdoor with the pole fully extended and all objects are >4 meter away.....I might have a perfect stitch.

I have not yet seen a close up pic of the Canon 8-15mm fisheye lens mounted on a NN R1. I have heard that if the NN R1 ring is centered over the focus window and switch [zoom lock and AF/MF] area that the focus and zoom rings turn freely.

So does this mean that it will be difficult to turn the focus ring to find the lens mark for hyperfocal [HF] distance value when readjusting from 8mm to 15mm zoom ?

After locking the lens in the ring and calibrating the HF for 8mm and f/8, how can you set the HF point for 15mm? Or does it matter ? Just set it up for f/8 @ 8mm and leave it even if you might zoom to 15mm ?

I would like to talk off forum with other 5d /8-15mm fisheye users about their experiences.

It's true that the focus scale is hidden by the ring. I normally have the focus ring taped in position and I don't tend to shoot at different zoom settings. If you don't want to live with a fixed focus setting, then it's probably best to auto focus on something at the HF distance. I have the * button on the 5D programmed to auto focus instead of letting the shutter release button do it, so once set, the focus ring will not move unless you manually turn it. In any case, the focus scale on the lens doesn't lend itself to visually setting the HF distance accurately.

John wrote "I have the * button on the 5D programmed to auto focus instead of letting the shutter release button do it"

[Wokflow? ]Do you have your 8-15mm fisheye lens AF/MF switched on ? And with the internal CFn 4 focus (option 3) is initially toggled OFF. When you need to focus...you <*>ON to focus and <*> OFF again ?

Is the last on/off toggle camera selection is remembered after you have turned the camera off and on again ?

The 5d User manual shows that it has a CFn -04 "option 3" AE/AF no AE lock. This is useful for subjects which keep moving and stopping repeatedly. In the AI Servero AF [autofocus], you can press the <*> button to start or stop the AI Servo AF [autofocus] operation. The exposure is set at the moment the picture is taken. Thus the focusing and exposure will always be at the optimum point as you wait for the decisive moment.