Melt lard, butter, or drippings in a large heavy pot over medium
heat. Add the onions and cook until transparent but not browned,
about 5 minutes. Combine meat with garlic, ground chilis and cumin.
Add this meat-spice mixture with a fork and cook, stirring
occasionally, until meat is evenly browned. Stir in water and salt.
Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 2
1/2 to 3 hours, stirring occasionally, until meat is very tender and
flavors are well blended. Add more water if necessary.
Taste and adjust seasonings.