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Topic Review (Newest First)

06-29-2008 04:09 PM

sick7

Thanks dh79, I will P/U the gauge and I think I'm gonna jump on the hump for a cheap fix. The specs on that cam call for 10.5:1 and the 8.8 just isn't doin it for me. Went out this weekend for a spin and found a few other things that need to be buttoned up. No biggy, just little stuff. Carb seems to be pretty close though. Thanks for the help everyone!
Steve

06-27-2008 09:07 AM

dh79

If you have the double humps already then yeah they're probably worth it. The compression will be significantly higher with the 64 cc chambers. Several years ago I had a similar engine to yours with 882 heads. Kinda like yours the cam was a bit too big. I changed to doublehumps and it matched better with the cam. It was definitely better. A few years after that I switched to dart heads and it was another big jump in power. Basically what I'm saying is yes the doublehumps would be better, but aftermarket heads would be even better. If you can do it for $100 plus gaskets, that is mighty tempting.

Also, you might want to check that the doublehumps have accessory holes. Mine were 461 heads that didn't have accessory holes. They worked fine but it was a bit of work making brackets for the alternator etc.

One last thing, you should pick up a vacuum gauge. They're cheap, probably $10 and a great tool.

dh

06-26-2008 10:40 PM

sick7

You guys are great! Funny thing?? Went out last Friday for the first cruise down to the local gearhead spot, really started runnig progressively worse. Got it home and won't even idle. The PV problem was there but it seems that I developed a vacuum leak somewhere. So... tonight just said the hell with it! On the way home from work stopped and bought a 4.5 to replace the 6.5 on a guess (because I don't have a vacuum meter) and a new set of plugs. Came home and changed the PV in like 15min flat, easy as hell! Cahnged the plugs, checked everything that could be leaking vacuum (couple thing kinda loose), started it up and found my idle. Yeah!! Still doesn't seam as strong as I would hope for so printed the manual for the carb from holley.com rechecked the bowl levels and started on the idle mixture. HMMM?? this was fun (without the gauge) it said adjust til you have maximum RPM...Hmmm?? That a ****! Damn cam! Engine shaking and I really didn't hear all that much of an increase. A matter of fact I had to open them up about 7/8 more than the factory setting. 1-7/8 total out. Tomorrow driving it in to work, stopping by a local shop to get a vacuum reading, get the correct PV (vacuum @ idle divided by 2) and dial it in the rest of the way. Tell you one thing, need more power!!! no ****! Just sold an 02 WS6 w/ cam intake TB and MAF work done and it would walk this thing. Look up guys... what kind of gains would I get from stock 882 heads to the 2.02 humps?? 50hp? be worth the 100 bucks and a days work switchen em. Humps only have a few miles on them.
Thanks again
Steve

06-26-2008 03:44 PM

dh79

Oh, forgot to add. You need a pcv to have some negative pressure in the crankcase. This will help the rings stay seated which helps power and efficiency.

06-26-2008 03:42 PM

dh79

I agree, DO NOT block off your powervalve. In fact, don't go back to the shop that recommended this to you. Anybody who would recommend that for a street car has no business tuning carbs. It's not terribly difficult to do things the correct way. With a little knowledge and some trial and error you can tune the carb to work perfectly.

The only time to consider losing the powervalve would be for a race only engine that is only WOT or idle.

06-26-2008 12:38 PM

darkostoj

Quote:

Originally Posted by sick7

One of the local shops recommended that I block off the power valve and increase the primary jet size by 2-3. Also, not running any vac lines off the carb at all. No PCV at all just vents, and the brakes and trans is off the intake with a T. Whats your take on this?
Steve

i wish every car(minus track only cars) had an electric gadget on it that automatically shocked anyone that was about to replace the primary power valve with a plug. That is such a bad idea. The power valve is there for a reason to only open up and enrich the carb when vacuum drops below the pv rating to give the carb more fuel when there is load on the motor, when you are in the mains and there is no load on the motor (ex. cruising on the highway at 3,000rpm) your pv is closed and running off the front main jets giving you a leaner mixture and saving you gas mileage

06-26-2008 12:27 PM

sick7

One of the local shops recommended that I block off the power valve and increase the primary jet size by 2-3. Also, not running any vac lines off the carb at all. No PCV at all just vents, and the brakes and trans is off the intake with a T. Whats your take on this?
Steve

06-25-2008 09:57 AM

darkostoj

Quote:

Originally Posted by techinspector1

If it's open at idle and feeding fuel into the motor, then the idle circuit has nothing to do with it. The motor will be rich regardless and you won't be able to get a clean idle. That was where I was coming from.

" i thought you were saying that an improper powervalve would give you an overly rich idle."

Yes it will, just won't be through the idle circuit.

Forget the idle circuit. That's not where the problem is the way I see it.

he said that its rich and loading up with just the throttle cracked. That means hes running off the transition slots, which get fuel from the idle circuit. To me it seems like he needs to work on the idle first to get it in the ballpark.

to the original poster. Your combo is fine it just needs some tuning to run properly. How much vacuum are you getting at idle? Where are your idle mixture screws set at? Did you set your transition slots in the carb properly?

06-25-2008 07:02 AM

sick7

Have a set 461 castings, yes the old double humps...again! lol that I can pick up from an older gentleman that came out of a mid 60s 327 vette orig. Been sitting in his shed for 20 yrs. 100 bucks plus shipping yes 2.02s
or
something loke this:
New set of Aluminim Small Block Chevy Pro Comp Motorsport Heads (2 heads)
Produce 500 HP Out Of Box With Advanced Port Design
Just do a nice bowl blend
210cc Intake Runners
64cc Chambers
Straight Plug Design for easy header clearance (ANGLE PLUG AVAILABLE ON REQUEST FOR SAME PRICE)
Bronze Valve Guides
Premium Hardened Seats
2.02 and 1.60 valve seat size
for 420 bucks bare

economy went to hell so $$$ is tight now, unless Im going to get 50+ more hp off the alum heads screw it I'll be a camel jockey. sorry if I offended anyone.

06-25-2008 06:40 AM

sick7

Quote:

Originally Posted by dh79

Assuming your timing is all where it should be, the next thing to do is put a vacuum gauge on it. Measure manifold vacuum off the carb or manifold. As mentioned already, make sure your powervalve isn't open at normal cruise or idle vacuum. Set your idle to maximum vacuum. That should be a starting point.

How do you know it's rich and not lean off a start?

Oh, thought of another early thing to check: make sure the float level isn't too high and dumping excess fuel into the venturis.

A 02 will make things a lot easier.

Call it old school or just my opinion....It's rich @ idle! I go to the exhuast, cup my hand and it smells like raw fuel. And cruising down the road at low RPMs it smells very strong of fuel.

After your responces and reading some of the other threads I relly believe there is a Vacuum issue for starters.
I also believe that the "match" of the components is wrong.
82 350 4bolt .040 over w/ eagle crank and rods, hyp flat tops
882 heads 1.94/1.50 valves 160? cc runners 76cc chamber basicly stock
Crane 100112 cam 500 lift 302 adv dur
Wiend intake http://www.holley.com/8004.asp
Holley 650 DP vac advance
All parts are new or rebuilt

I am looking for a decent set of aluminum heads with ~64cc chambers and bigger runners and a more aggressive intake. Should bring it to life.

If it's open at idle and feeding fuel into the motor, then the idle circuit has nothing to do with it. The motor will be rich regardless and you won't be able to get a clean idle. That was where I was coming from.

" i thought you were saying that an improper powervalve would give you an overly rich idle."

Yes it will, just won't be through the idle circuit.

Forget the idle circuit. That's not where the problem is the way I see it.

06-24-2008 11:59 PM

darkostoj

Quote:

Originally Posted by dh79

Yeah, but if you're idle vacuum is 4" and the powervalve opens below 9.5", then it'll be open at idle (and probably all the time).

ah, i thought you were saying that an improper powervalve would give you an overly rich idle.

In you scenario the pv will be open at all times, but it will not feed fuel to the idle circuit.

06-24-2008 11:16 PM

dh79

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkostoj

the powervalve feeds the main metering system, it doesnt affect the idle at all

Yeah, but if you're idle vacuum is 4" and the powervalve opens below 9.5", then it'll be open at idle (and probably all the time).

06-24-2008 11:12 PM

darkostoj

Quote:

Originally Posted by dh79

As mentioned already, make sure your powervalve isn't open at normal cruise or idle vacuum. Set your idle to maximum vacuum.

the powervalve feeds the main metering system, it doesnt affect the idle at all

06-24-2008 10:59 PM

dh79

Assuming your timing is all where it should be, the next thing to do is put a vacuum gauge on it. Measure manifold vacuum off the carb or manifold. As mentioned already, make sure your powervalve isn't open at normal cruise or idle vacuum. Set your idle to maximum vacuum. That should be a starting point.

How do you know it's rich and not lean off a start?

Oh, thought of another early thing to check: make sure the float level isn't too high and dumping excess fuel into the venturis.

A 02 will make things a lot easier.

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