Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1, [2017] until July 31, [2017] for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea....

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Just right of Free Fall is this excellent, short, powerful route, characterized mainly by big moves off good jams and holds. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux deadpoint/lunge at the 4th bolt. A few delicate yet tricky slab moves keep you on your toes until the anchors. Tape may be useful on the index finger of the right hand.

In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b.

I'm not quite sure if this is a 12, but I'll allow myself to be convinced to pump up my ego. The climb is short but is pretty strenuous. The fingerlock at the bottom is better than you think: use your right hand in it with the index finger at the bottom. It locks in there pretty well, or at least enough to get the left hand to the next ledge. The crux for me is matching my hands on the little ledge above the third bolt and then getting my left hand to the bomber sidepull. Then I can take my legs completely off and set them up for the dyno. With the sidepull and your right foot in the proper location, the dyno is easy and not that much of a dyno. Then you are on a big ledge with just a slightly tricky section to follow before the anchors. Some people use intermediates to avoid the dyno, but I think it makes it harder. I originally used a sequence that took me to the right and avoided the dyno, but I felt that was off-route so I abandoned that tack.

Agree that this seems easier than 12b. The "dyno" from the sidepull can be done statically, just barely, for guys of average height. It's a jug when you get there. I thought the hardest part was pulling onto the slab above. This is a fun route. Thanks, Richard, for putting it up.

My first 5.12! I pulled the crux statically by having my feet high on the wall - there's a great, little, angled band of sharp rock to the left of the 3rd bolt that makes it easier to reach the jug if you're short like me. It's a nice short route.

I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"?

My first 5.12 as well. Definitely did not use the right hand finger lock, nor did I do a dyno anywhere. Could NOT reach the right hand after the sidepull, so used the left out left then a right hand facing left right above it, then mantle. Topout that way is pretty smooth-although sketch. I think there is lotsa different beta for this route.

definately a little easier for the people with the wingspan. i'm 6'1" and the moves weren't all that hard but a little pumpy. shorter people might have a little harder time but for me it probably went around 11c. jus remember that grade doesn't account for people's height. definately a cool route to project, not too hard to set up the top rope (draws are pretty close together, aside from the techy slab). enjoy!

I tried to lead this route but kept falling trying to get established above the roof, which led to some nasty swings. It is very easy to set up a tr on the bolts on the slab above. Once on tr I really think the deadpoint to the jug is the onsight crux, but it really isn't that far of a move.

Deadpoints are necessary as you are off balance the whole time, but no need to dyno. Only beta I can give is to not clip the third bolt. The fall is safe unless you fall while pulling rope for the 4th bolt, which probably won't happen because the clipping hold is a huge jug.

Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.

Soft 12a, but I think that's a fair grade. May feel easier if you're about 6' or taller (or have an equivalent ape index).

Really fun, gymnastic movement! 4* moves but can only give it 3* because it's so short. I found it much easier to skip the 4th bolt, as it's a fairly strenuous clip and the fall onto the 3rd bolt if you don't stick the deadpoint is totally clean (I checked, several times).