Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Hampi and Badami: Deccan delights, Part II

The
Sasivekalu Ganesha temple in Hampi, which I just visited, is located
at the foot of a small hillock known as “Hemakut Giri.” This
hillock looks rather tiny, however climbing up from the side of this
temple is difficult because the cliff here is rather stiff. Most of
the people take the diversionary route, which goes around the hill,
because it is easier on your legs. I decide to take this longer route
and start walking. Ahead of me appears another structure constructed
with a granite stone block plinth, pillars and slabs for roof, and
that is all that has remained there now.

Entry gate for Kadalekalu Ganesh temple. Left gate is for the King, middle for commoners and right for noblemen

This
structure was actually a gate with three separate entrances. Left
entrance for the king, right entrance for the senior officers and the
middle one for common people. All the three ways converge into the
same path later. I am bit amazed at this segregation of classes. I
walk ahead and see another Temple structure with another Ganesha idol
facing me. This temple structure is somewhat different from the one
I saw earlier. There are actually two sections an outside prayer
hall, known as “Rang Mandir” and the inside sanctum where the
idol is kept. All the pillars that support the prayer hall have bass
reliefs carved on them. My initial reaction about the bass reliefs is
that they lack fine work. However I soon realize that they are
looking bit crude because the basic material in which they are carved
is granite, which is an extremely hard stone. Because of the
hardness, it must have been really tough to sculpture or create baas
reliefs here. On closer look I much impressed with the bass reliefs
as these are quite different from the usual stuff. I can make out
unusual stuff here like a hunter female with a bow and arrow, a
monkey faced lion, a Shiva figure and a lingam and Hanuman monkey
with his tail wrapped up around him.

Bass relief on a pillar, a servant with a "Chauri"

Figure of Shiva

Shiva Lingam

Monkey faced Lion

Kadalekalu Ganesha

The
Ganesha idol in the sanctum is huge, at least 15 feet high. The part
of the elephant trunk and stomach have broken off and are not seen
anywhere. This Ganesha idol was known as “ Kadalekalu Ganesha”
because, Kadalekalu means gram lentil in local Kannada language and
that is how the tummy of this idol had looked like. The surrounding
view from the prayer hall is magnificent . I can see Hampi market
directly ahead with famous “Virupaksha” temple on left and
further away in almost all directions the famed Hampi's rock
mountains. I feel rather pleased with the view and the place.

Entrance gate to Hemakut hill

I
continue walking on a steadily climbing path and see ahead a huge
gate, which has been fashioned more like a Roman or a Greek sculpture
without any “Gopura” or tower on top. It is also possible that it
looks like this because the original Gopura or the tower on the top
of the building has now collapsed. There is a particular symbol which
I do not understand, but must have been some kind of good luck sign.

Temples from Rashtrakut Period

Temples on Hillside; on left are Hoyasala style, middle are Rashtrakuta style and on right Chalukya style.

West side view: Sasivekalu Ganesha and Krishna temples

East side View; tower of Virupaksha temple.

“Hemakut
Giri” means a mountain of gold. This name has been derived from the
Sanskrit word “Hema” which means gold. It is believed that when
Hindu God Shiva got married with Goddess “Pampa,” this hill was
covered with gold flakes, which fell from the heavens. In reality, I
can only see shining black granite rock slabs covering almost entire
hill. There are number of Shiva temples on the hill with three
distinct types of “Gopura” or towers on top. I can clearly
identify the typical “Rashtrakut” style stepped towers of earlier
times. Perhaps the absence of the tower on the entry gate, which I
mentioned above is because of this reason only. This kind of entry
gate without a tower, is seen in many structures of “Rashtrakut”
period, like the Gate structure of the famous “Kailash” rock
temple at Ellora caves. Obviously, many temples here must have been
in existence long before the “Vijayanagara” was established.

I
climb to the top of the hill. I am told that the sunset view from
here is quite picturesque. However it is still mid morning here and
only things I see are the Sasivekalu Ganesha temple and the Krishna
temple further away. There is two storied structure here right on top
of hill. I had never seen anywhere this kind of structure built out
of just stone slabs without any binding materials. This was built as
a place for overnight stay of disciples, who came to prey at the
“Hemakut” temples. There were ramparts all around the hill to
protect the temples from any invaders. The ruins are still seen at
few places. While getting down the hill, I see a bass relief
depicting few scenes from “Ramayana” done by some amateur artist.
One of the temples has a victory pillar. A Frangipani tree is in
full bloom with brilliant white flowers. I just can not avoid the
temptation of snapping all that.

Hemakut hill guest house

Shiva lingam engraved in stone

Engraving on temple towers done in Rashtrakut style

The Victory Pillar

Bass reliefs on hemkut hill

Frangipani tree on the hill

If you
look east from top of the “Hemakut” hill, a huge “Gopura” or
a monumental tower, can be easily seen at a distance. This tower
belongs to the “Virupaksha” temple, which has the distinction of
being the only Hindu temple in this place where religious ceremonies
or “Pooja” is still conducted and many disciples visit the
temple to pay their respects to the lord. I am now inside the temple
courtyard having crossed the outer gate over which the huge tower has
been erected. I see two huge enclosures on my both sides. The stone
slab roofs of which are being supported by 80 or 100 pillars. All the
pillars and the stone walls are decorated with beautiful bass
reliefs. The original “Virupaksha temple” was constucted in the
seventh century CE. The outside entrance gate and the tower above
were built by the Hampi Kind “Krishnadevaraya” in the fifteenth
century . There is another gate with a smaller “Gopura.” ahead.
After crossing the second gate, I can see the main temple and many
other smaller temples on the sides. The prayer hall ceiling has some
painted scenes from epic “Ramayana” besides few more bass
reliefs and sculptures. I do not find anything outstanding in the
artwork. There is an exceptional arrangement in a completely darkened
side enclosure on the right side of the main temple. It is possible
to see an inverted image of the scene outside on a wall through a pin
hole that has been provided on the opposite wall. Am ancient pin hole
camera viewer! Obviously, the principle was known to the architects,
who built the temple. I find it quite amazing.

Towers of Virupaksha temple

Bass relief Virupaksha temple

Goddess Durga fighting demons

100 pillared enclosure, Virupaksha temple

Painting on the ceiling of Virupaksha temple

Vali and Sugreev, Monkey kings from Ramayana, fighting a battle

View of Virupaksha temple from Hampi Bazaar

I walk
out of the temple through the south side entry gate. Just outside the
temple gate, the way opens in to a wide King's way, which had stalls,
where traders used to set shops. All these are now in ruins. Much
nearer, modern traders have set up shops here selling materials for
religious ceremonies, clothes and usual stuff for visitors like
souvenirs and Tee shirts. I find the quality of good quite pathetic
and keep walking to our bus, which has been parked a little distance
away. Because of this modern shops, the place is now known as Hampi
bazaar.