Steph Davis (b. 1973, USA)

There’s a poem by William Butler Yeats called ‘Slouching Towards Bethlehem’. And he says ‘The best lack all conviction and the worst are filled with passionate intensity’, which is of course opposite of how things should be. And for me, climbing is about passion and intensity.

2007

Casual Route 5.10, Long’s Peak Diamond, free solo ascent

I really like soloing. It’s good for me because I’m the type of person which rises to the occasion. If I’m climbing with a weak partner or no partner, I’ll do everything right on. I’m always thinking four steps ahead, completely focused.

Dean and I went to Patagonia after a two year break from it. Together, we made the first one-day ascent of Torre Egger. We have both spent many seasons in Patagonia, both together and separately, with a lot of effort, success and heartbreak. To make this ascent together really meant a lot to us, as husband and wife and as climbing partners.

Salathé Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite, first free ascent by woman, 10th overall, 11 days spent on the wall on the final push

For me, that was a dream of a lifetime.

2004

Free Rider, El Capitan, Yosemite, first female ascent, third woman to free-climb El Cap After sending the route free in April, she returned in late May to free the route in a day. She led 38-pitch route in 22:15.

Red Pillar 5.10 A1, Aguja Mermoz, ascent, with Isaac Cortez. Became the first woman to ascend all seven major ridgeline summits of the Fitzroy massif.

The Epitaph 5.13b, 3 pitches, Tombstone, Utah, first free ascent, with Dean Potter. He led the crux second pitch – a 70-meter rope-stretcher – while Steph followed it free and let the final 5.12 pitch.

The rock in funky, and the gear is weird. It’s a serious and weird climbing.

Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, with Beth Cost, a paraplegic, who made the first female paraplegic ascent of the wall

1999

Coyne Crack 5.11, Indian Creek, free solo ascent of the difficult, thin crack, she had climbed the route several times before and led it with three pieces of gear just prior to the solo

Soloing Coyne Crack was not pn the edge for me. I felt very much in my element, wheras I wouldn’t consider soloing some 5.10 friction route where it would be way out there. I have to be solid, a hundred percent.

Zen and the Art of Leadership VI 5.11 A4, Jushua Tower, Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island, new route, with Russ Mitrovich, Brandon Kannier, 21 days spent on thewall, one day rapping, early on the route Davis on-sighted two runout 5.11 pitches on bad rock

The main reason I’m so fat is that I ate nothing but fat for three weeks while sitting in the portaledge.