nVidia Drivers

I'm having constant crashes due to nv4disp.dll and nv4_mini.sys. I have an
AOpen 6600GT video card. The crashes mostly happens when I'm playing World
of Warcraft. I've searched everywhere to find a solution, with no results.
I've updated my BIOS to the most recent version, and I'm using the most
recent release of the nVidia drivers.

Below is two of my most recent crash debug reports. Hopefully one of you
can help me. Thanks!

SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (3b)
An exception happened while executing a system service routine.
Arguments:
Arg1: 00000000c0000005, Exception code that caused the bugcheck
Arg2: fffff97fff655f57, Address of the exception record for the exception
that caused the bugcheck
Arg3: fffffadfdfe0fa70, Address of the context record for the exception that
caused the bugcheck
Arg4: 0000000000000000, zero.

Debugging Details:
------------------

EXCEPTION_CODE: (NTSTATUS) 0xc0000005 - The instruction at "0x%08lx"
referenced memory at "0x%08lx". The memory could not be "%s".

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quantumburnz wrote:
> I'm having constant crashes due to nv4disp.dll and nv4_mini.sys. I have an
> AOpen 6600GT video card. The crashes mostly happens when I'm playing World
> of Warcraft. I've searched everywhere to find a solution, with no results.
> I've updated my BIOS to the most recent version, and I'm using the most
> recent release of the nVidia drivers.
>
> Below is two of my most recent crash debug reports. Hopefully one of you
> can help me. Thanks!
>
I'm having similar problem/error:

***nv4_disp.dll
date stamp 43a71b3d .... but this happens only when I open/play media
player.
looking forward for a solution.
using version 82.12 of nvidia driver on Geforce FX5200/256

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I'm playing a song with Media Player right now and no problems. I'm using a
visualization too; what do you do to cause a problem in WMP?

"Leo" <> wrote in message
news:OJ$...
> quantumburnz wrote:
>> I'm having constant crashes due to nv4disp.dll and nv4_mini.sys. I have
>> an AOpen 6600GT video card. The crashes mostly happens when I'm playing
>> World of Warcraft. I've searched everywhere to find a solution, with no
>> results. I've updated my BIOS to the most recent version, and I'm using
>> the most recent release of the nVidia drivers.
>>
>> Below is two of my most recent crash debug reports. Hopefully one of you
>> can help me. Thanks!
>>
> I'm having similar problem/error:
>
> ***nv4_disp.dll
> date stamp 43a71b3d .... but this happens only when I open/play media
> player.
> looking forward for a solution.
> using version 82.12 of nvidia driver on Geforce FX5200/256

The system boots fine, I've had no problems running Windows on or other
applications. The system is not set up for dual booting, and as I said, the
crashes happen when I'm playing World of Warcraft. When the crashes happen,
I get a BSOD and the computer restarts.

"Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Spend the money on a good case, one that's designed to cool well, and
> quietly. When I moved from a cheap no-name case to the Antec P180, I
> dropped almost 20c on my CPU. (Might have dropped more, but that drop got
> me down to 28c, so there wasn't much room to go. )
>
>
Yes, I do remember those words, I still don't see any adds here for the
Antec, but I'm getting hungrier these days and I hope to dig one up.
Although I am extremely happy with my current case, (Levicom series 69) The
NorthQ PS comes with very high recommendations, but all I can say is that it
has left me 'cold', and somewhat disappointed. It is probably very, very
good as an economy product, but it is not a 'heavy duty' thing.
>
> Second, look at one of the quiet, high performance CPU coolers. They can
> make a big difference. Finally, a quality PS that does a good (and quiet)
> job of providing _clean_ power while moving the air will also make a big
> difference. I'm partial to Seasonic, and they've got long enough cables
> that the P-180 doesn't have a problem.
>

True, cable length is extremely important. Myself, I was always partial to
PCP&C, without turning this into an advertisement, would you put the
Seasonic in that league? Because, I believe that is what I am going to need.
(something in that league!)

> Just one other note, Tony - a big 120 mm fan, moving slowly, will move
> more air than an 80mm moving much faster. And is a LOT quieter.
>

Precisely! All my fans are 120mm (PSU & 2x Case fans). The case fans are
plastic but what's in the PSU I don't know. It comes with a whining metallic
resonance. Some time ago, one evening I had a big fat moth looking for a
short-cut going through that way, I don't know if that killed the bearings,
but since then occasionally, there's a ticking, banging noise that can last
from 10 min. to an hour. It then goes away for maybe several days, but
returns with a vengence.

But I am having the greatest trouble interpreting the concept of airflow,
when adding case fans. Diagrams of airflow always picture an 'S-curve' in a
case with the PSU. This lay-out has air entering from all directions (front
and back) through the openings there. Adding case-fans has to disturb (even
destroy?) that curve. But it's nearly impossible to know what kind of impact
the additions will have in your specific situation. You add a fan and the
only result could be that you are moving the hot spot around inside the
case? There's a mission for Tom's Hardware Guide, perhaps?

My own philosophy on this issue is that if you add fan(s) you would have to
have a PSU fan that can accommodate the extra flow of air entering the case
to have it moved out again. So, ideally - you would want a PSU with at least
two powerfull fans that can be switched on and off - most ideally, having it
controlled by the environmental functions on many modern boards, but where
is such a thing?

Some airplanes have double propellers in close proximity that work by
building a vacuum between them (I think) that concept should give the plane
added power in lifting heavy loads, i.e. move more air more easily? I wonder
why the cooling industry hasn't come up with anything in that department?
Particularly, since few cases can accomodate anything bigger than 120mm with
the current sizes and formats.

I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it on
top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is now
59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a new case as
you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case. Any
recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
expensive...

Thanks for the help.
Chris

"Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing that
> CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move air well,
> put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU are OK, but
> they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS that will help
> move the air while providing clean, power-factor corrected, power can help
> as well.
>
> --
> Charlie.
> http://msmvps.com/xperts64
>

I'd recommend Antec power supplies Tony. This is the only power supply I've
seen with a 3 year warranty, and these are the strongest, most reliable
power supplies I've used. I've gone through a lot of "no name" and generic
power supplies and I'm still on my first Antec.

Chris

"Tony Sperling" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Hi, Charlie.
>
> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Spend the money on a good case, one that's designed to cool well, and
>> quietly. When I moved from a cheap no-name case to the Antec P180, I
>> dropped almost 20c on my CPU. (Might have dropped more, but that drop got
>> me down to 28c, so there wasn't much room to go. )
>>
>>
> Yes, I do remember those words, I still don't see any adds here for the
> Antec, but I'm getting hungrier these days and I hope to dig one up.
> Although I am extremely happy with my current case, (Levicom series 69)
> The NorthQ PS comes with very high recommendations, but all I can say is
> that it has left me 'cold', and somewhat disappointed. It is probably
> very, very good as an economy product, but it is not a 'heavy duty' thing.
>>
>> Second, look at one of the quiet, high performance CPU coolers. They can
>> make a big difference. Finally, a quality PS that does a good (and quiet)
>> job of providing _clean_ power while moving the air will also make a big
>> difference. I'm partial to Seasonic, and they've got long enough cables
>> that the P-180 doesn't have a problem.
>>
>
> True, cable length is extremely important. Myself, I was always partial to
> PCP&C, without turning this into an advertisement, would you put the
> Seasonic in that league? Because, I believe that is what I am going to
> need. (something in that league!)
>
>
>> Just one other note, Tony - a big 120 mm fan, moving slowly, will move
>> more air than an 80mm moving much faster. And is a LOT quieter.
>>
>
> Precisely! All my fans are 120mm (PSU & 2x Case fans). The case fans are
> plastic but what's in the PSU I don't know. It comes with a whining
> metallic resonance. Some time ago, one evening I had a big fat moth
> looking for a short-cut going through that way, I don't know if that
> killed the bearings, but since then occasionally, there's a ticking,
> banging noise that can last from 10 min. to an hour. It then goes away for
> maybe several days, but returns with a vengence.
>
> But I am having the greatest trouble interpreting the concept of airflow,
> when adding case fans. Diagrams of airflow always picture an 'S-curve' in
> a case with the PSU. This lay-out has air entering from all directions
> (front and back) through the openings there. Adding case-fans has to
> disturb (even destroy?) that curve. But it's nearly impossible to know
> what kind of impact the additions will have in your specific situation.
> You add a fan and the only result could be that you are moving the hot
> spot around inside the case? There's a mission for Tom's Hardware Guide,
> perhaps?
>
> My own philosophy on this issue is that if you add fan(s) you would have
> to have a PSU fan that can accommodate the extra flow of air entering the
> case to have it moved out again. So, ideally - you would want a PSU with
> at least two powerfull fans that can be switched on and off - most
> ideally, having it controlled by the environmental functions on many
> modern boards, but where is such a thing?
>
> Some airplanes have double propellers in close proximity that work by
> building a vacuum between them (I think) that concept should give the
> plane added power in lifting heavy loads, i.e. move more air more easily?
> I wonder why the cooling industry hasn't come up with anything in that
> department? Particularly, since few cases can accomodate anything bigger
> than 120mm with the current sizes and formats.
>
> As always, thank you Charlie.
>
>
> Tony. . .
>
>

Have you tried running with the case open and even adding a house fan to
blow air into the case when it is open? You may have another problem, such
as the cpu fan or improper installation or even bad readings (have you tried
another temperature reporting program).

"quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
news:...
>I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it on
>top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is now
>59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a new case as
>you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case. Any
>recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
>expensive...
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Chris
>
> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing that
>> CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move air well,
>> put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU are OK, but
>> they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS that will help
>> move the air while providing clean, power-factor corrected, power can
>> help as well.
>>
>> --
>> Charlie.
>> http://msmvps.com/xperts64
>>
>

I've actually had my the side off my case the whole time since I put it
together. I did try blowing air into the case using a house fan yesterday
and the temperatures lowered some, but not more than 5°C. I haven't tried
another temperature program, but I could and see if I get anything
different. I would tend to say the CPU fan is on correctly, but in my
opinion, these P4 fans are tough to get on.

Chris

"John Barnes" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Have you tried running with the case open and even adding a house fan to
> blow air into the case when it is open? You may have another problem,
> such as the cpu fan or improper installation or even bad readings (have
> you tried another temperature reporting program).
>
>
> "quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>>I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it on
>>top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is now
>>59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a new case
>>as you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case. Any
>>recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
>>expensive...
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>> Chris
>>
>> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
>> news:...
>>> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing that
>>> CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move air well,
>>> put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU are OK, but
>>> they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS that will help
>>> move the air while providing clean, power-factor corrected, power can
>>> help as well.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Charlie.
>>> http://msmvps.com/xperts64
>>>
>>
>
>

I seriously doubt under these circumstances that changing your case is going
to help. No case is going to improve on an open case and a house fan into
the case. Also from what I can see those temperatures are relatively normal
for a P4 under load.

"quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
news:...
> I've actually had my the side off my case the whole time since I put it
> together. I did try blowing air into the case using a house fan yesterday
> and the temperatures lowered some, but not more than 5°C. I haven't tried
> another temperature program, but I could and see if I get anything
> different. I would tend to say the CPU fan is on correctly, but in my
> opinion, these P4 fans are tough to get on.
>
> Chris
>
> "John Barnes" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Have you tried running with the case open and even adding a house fan to
>> blow air into the case when it is open? You may have another problem,
>> such as the cpu fan or improper installation or even bad readings (have
>> you tried another temperature reporting program).
>>
>>
>> "quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
>> news:...
>>>I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it on
>>>top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is now
>>>59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a new case
>>>as you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case. Any
>>>recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
>>>expensive...
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in
>>> message news:...
>>>> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing that
>>>> CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move air
>>>> well, put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU are
>>>> OK, but they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS that
>>>> will help move the air while providing clean, power-factor corrected,
>>>> power can help as well.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Charlie.
>>>> http://msmvps.com/xperts64
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

Thank you, Chris. I pretty much arrived on that option just now since the
Seasonic that Charlie mentioned apparently goes by the name 'Arctic Cooling'
here, and I was only able to find assembled systems with those.

Antec, finally - I was able to find, and not very expensive at all, (a
normal case + 30%) but the PS is so close to the cost of the case that it
seems futile to make calculations on potential savings. Antec had a Passive
PS at a price slightly higher than the case that I thought looked
persuasive. It is the 'Phantom 500 PEC. I wonder if that wouldn't be a
suitable companion to the P180.

And - not to debate - I think that PC Power & Cooling used to come with 5
years. (Or, was it even lifetime?)

Tony. . .

"quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
news:...
> I'd recommend Antec power supplies Tony. This is the only power supply
> I've seen with a 3 year warranty, and these are the strongest, most
> reliable power supplies I've used. I've gone through a lot of "no name"
> and generic power supplies and I'm still on my first Antec.
>
> Chris
>
> "Tony Sperling" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Hi, Charlie.
>>
>> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
>> news:...
>>> Spend the money on a good case, one that's designed to cool well, and
>>> quietly. When I moved from a cheap no-name case to the Antec P180, I
>>> dropped almost 20c on my CPU. (Might have dropped more, but that drop
>>> got me down to 28c, so there wasn't much room to go. )
>>>
>>>
>> Yes, I do remember those words, I still don't see any adds here for the
>> Antec, but I'm getting hungrier these days and I hope to dig one up.
>> Although I am extremely happy with my current case, (Levicom series 69)
>> The NorthQ PS comes with very high recommendations, but all I can say is
>> that it has left me 'cold', and somewhat disappointed. It is probably
>> very, very good as an economy product, but it is not a 'heavy duty'
>> thing.
>>>
>>> Second, look at one of the quiet, high performance CPU coolers. They can
>>> make a big difference. Finally, a quality PS that does a good (and
>>> quiet) job of providing _clean_ power while moving the air will also
>>> make a big difference. I'm partial to Seasonic, and they've got long
>>> enough cables that the P-180 doesn't have a problem.
>>>
>>
>> True, cable length is extremely important. Myself, I was always partial
>> to PCP&C, without turning this into an advertisement, would you put the
>> Seasonic in that league? Because, I believe that is what I am going to
>> need. (something in that league!)
>>
>>
>>> Just one other note, Tony - a big 120 mm fan, moving slowly, will move
>>> more air than an 80mm moving much faster. And is a LOT quieter.
>>>
>>
>> Precisely! All my fans are 120mm (PSU & 2x Case fans). The case fans are
>> plastic but what's in the PSU I don't know. It comes with a whining
>> metallic resonance. Some time ago, one evening I had a big fat moth
>> looking for a short-cut going through that way, I don't know if that
>> killed the bearings, but since then occasionally, there's a ticking,
>> banging noise that can last from 10 min. to an hour. It then goes away
>> for maybe several days, but returns with a vengence.
>>
>> But I am having the greatest trouble interpreting the concept of airflow,
>> when adding case fans. Diagrams of airflow always picture an 'S-curve' in
>> a case with the PSU. This lay-out has air entering from all directions
>> (front and back) through the openings there. Adding case-fans has to
>> disturb (even destroy?) that curve. But it's nearly impossible to know
>> what kind of impact the additions will have in your specific situation.
>> You add a fan and the only result could be that you are moving the hot
>> spot around inside the case? There's a mission for Tom's Hardware Guide,
>> perhaps?
>>
>> My own philosophy on this issue is that if you add fan(s) you would have
>> to have a PSU fan that can accommodate the extra flow of air entering the
>> case to have it moved out again. So, ideally - you would want a PSU with
>> at least two powerfull fans that can be switched on and off - most
>> ideally, having it controlled by the environmental functions on many
>> modern boards, but where is such a thing?
>>
>> Some airplanes have double propellers in close proximity that work by
>> building a vacuum between them (I think) that concept should give the
>> plane added power in lifting heavy loads, i.e. move more air more easily?
>> I wonder why the cooling industry hasn't come up with anything in that
>> department? Particularly, since few cases can accomodate anything bigger
>> than 120mm with the current sizes and formats.
>>
>> As always, thank you Charlie.
>>
>>
>> Tony. . .
>>
>>
>
>

Tony Sperling wrote:
> Hi, Charlie.
>
> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Spend the money on a good case, one that's designed to cool well, and
>> quietly. When I moved from a cheap no-name case to the Antec P180, I
>> dropped almost 20c on my CPU. (Might have dropped more, but that drop got
>> me down to 28c, so there wasn't much room to go. )
>>
>>
> Yes, I do remember those words, I still don't see any adds here for the
> Antec, but I'm getting hungrier these days and I hope to dig one up.
> Although I am extremely happy with my current case, (Levicom series 69)
> The NorthQ PS comes with very high recommendations, but all I can say is
> that it has left me 'cold', and somewhat disappointed. It is probably
> very, very good as an economy product, but it is not a 'heavy duty' thing.
>>
>> Second, look at one of the quiet, high performance CPU coolers. They can
>> make a big difference. Finally, a quality PS that does a good (and quiet)
>> job of providing _clean_ power while moving the air will also make a big
>> difference. I'm partial to Seasonic, and they've got long enough cables
>> that the P-180 doesn't have a problem.
>>
>
> True, cable length is extremely important. Myself, I was always partial to
> PCP&C, without turning this into an advertisement, would you put the
> Seasonic in that league? Because, I believe that is what I am going to
> need. (something in that league!)
>
>
>> Just one other note, Tony - a big 120 mm fan, moving slowly, will move
>> more air than an 80mm moving much faster. And is a LOT quieter.
>>
>
> Precisely! All my fans are 120mm (PSU & 2x Case fans). The case fans are
> plastic but what's in the PSU I don't know. It comes with a whining
> metallic resonance. Some time ago, one evening I had a big fat moth
> looking for a short-cut going through that way, I don't know if that
> killed the bearings, but since then occasionally, there's a ticking,
> banging noise that can last from 10 min. to an hour. It then goes away
> for maybe several days, but returns with a vengence.
>
> But I am having the greatest trouble interpreting the concept of airflow,
> when adding case fans. Diagrams of airflow always picture an 'S-curve' in
> a case with the PSU. This lay-out has air entering from all directions
> (front and back) through the openings there. Adding case-fans has to
> disturb (even destroy?) that curve. But it's nearly impossible to know
> what kind of impact the additions will have in your specific situation.
> You add a fan and the only result could be that you are moving the hot
> spot around inside the case? There's a mission for Tom's Hardware Guide,
> perhaps?
> My own philosophy on this issue is that if you add fan(s) you would have
> to have a PSU fan that can accommodate the extra flow of air entering the
> case to have it moved out again. So, ideally - you would want a PSU with
> at least two powerfull fans that can be switched on and off - most
> ideally, having it controlled by the environmental functions on many
> modern boards, but where is such a thing?
>
> Some airplanes have double propellers in close proximity that work by
> building a vacuum between them (I think) that concept should give the
> plane added power in lifting heavy loads, i.e. move more air more easily?
> I wonder why the cooling industry hasn't come up with anything in that
> department? Particularly, since few cases can accomodate anything bigger
> than 120mm with the current sizes and formats.
>
> As always, thank you Charlie.
>
>
> Tony. . .

Avoid passive cooling choices on a high end PC that's having cooling issues.
That's the last thing you want. They're great if you've got everything else
sorted, and are running a CPU that won't overheat. But they just can't move
enough air.

Tony Sperling wrote:
> Thank you, Chris. I pretty much arrived on that option just now since the
> Seasonic that Charlie mentioned apparently goes by the name 'Arctic
> Cooling' here, and I was only able to find assembled systems with those.
>
> Antec, finally - I was able to find, and not very expensive at all, (a
> normal case + 30%) but the PS is so close to the cost of the case that it
> seems futile to make calculations on potential savings. Antec had a
> Passive PS at a price slightly higher than the case that I thought looked
> persuasive. It is the 'Phantom 500 PEC. I wonder if that wouldn't be a
> suitable companion to the P180.
>
> And - not to debate - I think that PC Power & Cooling used to come with 5
> years. (Or, was it even lifetime?)
>
>
> Tony. . .
>
>
> "quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> I'd recommend Antec power supplies Tony. This is the only power supply
>> I've seen with a 3 year warranty, and these are the strongest, most
>> reliable power supplies I've used. I've gone through a lot of "no name"
>> and generic power supplies and I'm still on my first Antec.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "Tony Sperling" <> wrote in message
>> news:...
>>> Hi, Charlie.
>>>
>>> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in
>>> message news:...
>>>> Spend the money on a good case, one that's designed to cool well, and
>>>> quietly. When I moved from a cheap no-name case to the Antec P180, I
>>>> dropped almost 20c on my CPU. (Might have dropped more, but that drop
>>>> got me down to 28c, so there wasn't much room to go. )
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Yes, I do remember those words, I still don't see any adds here for the
>>> Antec, but I'm getting hungrier these days and I hope to dig one up.
>>> Although I am extremely happy with my current case, (Levicom series 69)
>>> The NorthQ PS comes with very high recommendations, but all I can say is
>>> that it has left me 'cold', and somewhat disappointed. It is probably
>>> very, very good as an economy product, but it is not a 'heavy duty'
>>> thing.
>>>>
>>>> Second, look at one of the quiet, high performance CPU coolers. They
>>>> can make a big difference. Finally, a quality PS that does a good (and
>>>> quiet) job of providing _clean_ power while moving the air will also
>>>> make a big difference. I'm partial to Seasonic, and they've got long
>>>> enough cables that the P-180 doesn't have a problem.
>>>>
>>>
>>> True, cable length is extremely important. Myself, I was always partial
>>> to PCP&C, without turning this into an advertisement, would you put the
>>> Seasonic in that league? Because, I believe that is what I am going to
>>> need. (something in that league!)
>>>
>>>
>>>> Just one other note, Tony - a big 120 mm fan, moving slowly, will move
>>>> more air than an 80mm moving much faster. And is a LOT quieter.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Precisely! All my fans are 120mm (PSU & 2x Case fans). The case fans are
>>> plastic but what's in the PSU I don't know. It comes with a whining
>>> metallic resonance. Some time ago, one evening I had a big fat moth
>>> looking for a short-cut going through that way, I don't know if that
>>> killed the bearings, but since then occasionally, there's a ticking,
>>> banging noise that can last from 10 min. to an hour. It then goes away
>>> for maybe several days, but returns with a vengence.
>>>
>>> But I am having the greatest trouble interpreting the concept of
>>> airflow, when adding case fans. Diagrams of airflow always picture an
>>> 'S-curve' in a case with the PSU. This lay-out has air entering from
>>> all directions (front and back) through the openings there. Adding
>>> case-fans has to disturb (even destroy?) that curve. But it's nearly
>>> impossible to know what kind of impact the additions will have in your
>>> specific situation. You add a fan and the only result could be that you
>>> are moving the hot spot around inside the case? There's a mission for
>>> Tom's Hardware Guide, perhaps?
>>>
>>> My own philosophy on this issue is that if you add fan(s) you would have
>>> to have a PSU fan that can accommodate the extra flow of air entering
>>> the case to have it moved out again. So, ideally - you would want a PSU
>>> with at least two powerfull fans that can be switched on and off - most
>>> ideally, having it controlled by the environmental functions on many
>>> modern boards, but where is such a thing?
>>>
>>> Some airplanes have double propellers in close proximity that work by
>>> building a vacuum between them (I think) that concept should give the
>>> plane added power in lifting heavy loads, i.e. move more air more
>>> easily? I wonder why the cooling industry hasn't come up with anything
>>> in that department? Particularly, since few cases can accomodate
>>> anything bigger than 120mm with the current sizes and formats.
>>>
>>> As always, thank you Charlie.
>>>
>>>
>>> Tony. . .

This is one case where you're going to need to spend some $$. Antec are
cheaper than the alternatives that do the job, IME. And don't go for just
any old Antec, either - some of their cheaper ones are no better at cooling
than any other inexpensive case.

quantumburnz wrote:
> I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it on
> top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is now
> 59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a new case
> as you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case. Any
> recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
> expensive...
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Chris
>
> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing that
>> CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move air well,
>> put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU are OK, but
>> they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS that will help
>> move the air while providing clean, power-factor corrected, power can
>> help as well.
>>
>> --
>> Charlie.
>> http://msmvps.com/xperts64

John Barnes wrote:
> I seriously doubt under these circumstances that changing your case is
> going to help. No case is going to improve on an open case and a house
> fan into the case. Also from what I can see those temperatures are
> relatively normal for a P4 under load.
>
>
> "quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
> news:...
>> I've actually had my the side off my case the whole time since I put it
>> together. I did try blowing air into the case using a house fan
>> yesterday and the temperatures lowered some, but not more than 5°C. I
>> haven't tried another temperature program, but I could and see if I get
>> anything different. I would tend to say the CPU fan is on correctly,
>> but in my opinion, these P4 fans are tough to get on.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "John Barnes" <> wrote in message
>> news:...
>>> Have you tried running with the case open and even adding a house fan to
>>> blow air into the case when it is open? You may have another problem,
>>> such as the cpu fan or improper installation or even bad readings (have
>>> you tried another temperature reporting program).
>>>
>>>
>>> "quantumburnz" <> wrote in message
>>> news:...
>>>> I decided to take the power supply out of my case last night, I set it
>>>> on top of the case, to see if the CPU temperature improved. My CPU is
>>>> now 59-60° running Folding@Home. I'll probably need to invest in a
>>>> new case as you said, but I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on a case.
>>>> Any recommendations to good cases? I like Antec but they tend to be
>>>> expensive...
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>> "Charlie Russel - MVP" <> wrote in
>>>> message news:...
>>>>> Take IMMEDIATE action to reduce your temperature. You're not doing
>>>>> that CPU any good at all. Buy a _good_ case that's designed to move
>>>>> air well, put a good CPU cooler on - the ones that come with the CPU
>>>>> are OK, but they're noisy and not all that efficient. And a good PS
>>>>> that will help move the air while providing clean, power-factor
>>>>> corrected, power can help as well.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Charlie.
>>>>> http://msmvps.com/xperts64

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