IBIS in EPL2, native and legacy lenses

Hi all,
Let me apologize if this indeed has been covered in depth before, but I did a cursory search and didn't see anything in the forums quite like this question, and I hope you can help me.

I have an EPL2, and use it with the kit 14-42II, as well as with legacy nikkors 50mm 1.8 E series, 20mm f/4, and 28mm f2.8. For the life of me I cannot tell that the IS (set on 1) is working at all with the legacy lenses, and only *think* I see it doing something with the kit lens.

I've set the focal length in the IS dialogue to each one respectively (eg - 50, or 20 or 28 etc) but it seems like I do not see any effects. Purposefully moving the camera, or vibrating it handheld, still show the same amount of movement in the EVF as when IS is turned off.

Whereas on my Canon 20D with lens IS, I can see the lens working to stabilize the image in the viewfinder as i attempt to shake the camera around.

Is the IBIS on the Pens real subtle, better turned off, or am I missing some setting or function?

I've set the focal length in the IS dialogue to each one respectively (eg - 50, or 20 or 28 etc) but it seems like I do not see any effects. Purposefully moving the camera, or vibrating it handheld, still show the same amount of movement in the EVF as when IS is turned off.

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This is your problem. Unlike OIS, IBIS is not seen in the viewfinder - only in the finished photo. The Olympus E-System cameras (DSLR line) used to allow you to preview the IS effects in Live View by holding the IS button down, but it could only maintain this for about 5 seconds or so.

Olympus bodies with IBIS however, can use both OIS as well as IBIS. So if you have a lens with OIS you can use that instead and turn off IBIS, giving you a stabilized view in the viewfinder which is better for composing - and you can also use OIS in video. This can give you the best of both worlds, allowing you a choice while still giving you the option of IBIS for any non-stabilized lens you mount.

The Olympus E-System cameras (DSLR line) used to allow you to preview the IS effects in Live View by holding the IS button down, but it could only maintain this for about 5 seconds or so.

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IBIS heats up the sensor, which is why it's not used in video, and why it's only used in bursts. Oly uses software-based IS for video, not IBIS. Sony has tried IBIS in it's a33 and a55 cameras, and the sensors overheat, and videoing stops after just a short time (not sure what they are doing in the a65 or a77).

So, lens IS is good for video, because it can stabilize the image the whole time. IBIS is good for producing smaller lenses and also for stabilizing legacy lenses. m43 offers both!

One was cost. I decided that with the purchase of the EPM1 and PL25 and 45, I didn't want to spend that much right now. I tried to sell the EPL2 for $250, but no takers, so I sold the EP1, kept the EP2 and returned the G3.

I got the G3 for the in-built EVF and better sensor. Upon testing, it is a better sensor, but it wasn't THAT much better, and the body is not really (jacket) pocketable. I would trade up to that sensor, but I might wait to see the next generation, and where that sensor ends up.

One thing that really bothered me about the G3 was the menu and controls. The Pens, to me, are very cool looking, and their menus (in the later models) are really clear and well organized. There are SOOOO many options, that you can get confused, but they are broken down into clear sub-categories (with the EPL2 and EPM1. Not as much with the EP1). The G3 seemed to favor a HUGE running list of all sorts of options, with no clear organization. Seven pages of configuration choices, with no clear grouping or sub-headings that I could see. Add to that the fact that it ships with a very slimmed down "getting started" manual, so I had to download a pdf for the larger, more complete manual. Then getting confused about the best way to configure: What went on the Q menu, what went on the touch screen, etc. I was spending a lot of time with the pdf open trying to figure our how to just set up the camera for normal use. It took me like an hour to figure out where EV adjustment was, lol. I decided I just didn't want to swim through that, and wanted to go out and shoot instead.

Lastly, I didn't like the way the LCD and the EVF interacted. Playback was in the EVF, which I didn't like, unless I pressed the EVF/LCD button. No auto-detect between the EVF and LCD. I am SURE I could learn the camera, and would have if it was my primary shooter. It has a lot going for it -- super high speed burst was cool, a very good sensor, very precise focus points, fast operation, but I just decided that the EPM1 + 25 was so fantastic that I wanted to spend a lot of time with that camera. So, I sold the G3 forward, and will either come back to it later or wait for the next generation. Nothing against it; just wasn't what I needed.

So, I sold the G3 forward, and will either come back to it later or wait for the next generation. Nothing against it; just wasn't what I needed.

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I came to the same conclusion when I owned the G3, I loved the sensor but ended up preferring the E-PL2 and E-PM1. The way Pens are now (with the current fast AF, handling and speed) if they can get the 16mp sensor for the 4th generation bodies, I have no doubt they'll be a strong contender. I'm really impress by the E-PM1 myself. Though I still think the E-PL2 renders nicer low ISO shots while the E-PM1 is the better high ISO camera.

My main shooter is E-PM1 with Panny 14 & Oly 45. E-PL2 is a second body for use w/Panny 20, Oly 45, Oly 40-150 and macro (when IBIS is needed).
I couldn't connect to G3 either, I didn't like how the colors looked on LCD and EVF which I ended up using rarely. Oly SCP is truly great (even compared to Canon's offering). The evf protrudes way too much, not pocketable at all (might as well get much better GH2). AWB (and presets) is pretty bad indoors (green cast with yellow/brown skin tones) which affects raw files as well. Not fun to use unless you plan to edit each file indvidually (auto WB in LR didn't work well, had to tweak temp and tint - nightmare for mixed lightning shots). E-PM1 to me is a camera which just works right out of box like iphone.
On a side note, I do a lot of wide open shooting outdoors which means using ND filters and flash. Oly E-PM1 can sync non-TTL flash (e.g. Nikon flashes, I use tiny but mighty SB-30) at 1/320s in native 4:3 or at 1/400s in 16:9 aspect ratio. This means I can get away using 3-4 stops ND filters instead if 6-stop for which more powerful and larger flash is required. E-PL2 can sync at 1/400s in 4:3 and 1/500s in 16:9 (even better). You cannot overcome 1/160s flash sync limitation of panny bodies..

I couldn't connect to G3 either, I didn't like how the colors looked on LCD and EVF which I ended up using rarely. Oly SCP is truly great (even compared to Canon's offering). The evf protrudes way too much, not pocketable at all (might as well get much better GH2). AWB (and presets) is pretty bad indoors (green cast with yellow/brown skin tones) which affects raw files as well. Not fun to use unless you plan to edit each file indvidually (auto WB in LR didn't work well, had to tweak temp and tint - nightmare for mixed lightning shots)..

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Re tweaking WB in LR, I agree that using the temp and sliders is frustrating to the max. I have a lot better luck using the eye dropper tool and searching for a white or gray tone in the image. Doesn't work on every image, but it's my first stop when I'm trying to get WB right.

Re tweaking WB in LR, I agree that using the temp and sliders is frustrating to the max. I have a lot better luck using the eye dropper tool and searching for a white or gray tone in the image. Doesn't work on every image, but it's my first stop when I'm trying to get WB right.

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That's why in difficult conditions I always try to take a shot of my business card before shooting anything else.

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