Yeah, I can't fit 15" wheels...but if that's the price of really good brakes then so be it; I'm happy with what I have and if I ever get around to an axle swap I'm going to be hard-pressed to get brakes as good as what I have right now...and on this subject, Jankoid, you are sworn to silence.

Audio Digression

In completely unrelated news, I've been picking away at making a factory sub console into something that's halfway useful: a sealed enclosure for a 6.5" driver. It's really not been difficult, thus far; all I had to do was find a way to repair the big triangular hole that's left in the box when you remove the nigh-useless factory amp. To accomplish that, I cut out of piece of scrap 3/16" 5052 and epoxied it in place.

Pictured: Not a bad fit.

After the epoxy cured overnight I pulled the mounting bracket off of the box, shot a coat of Umbrella Gray™ on it, and then hit the box and aluminum cover plate with a coat of flat black.

Pictured: The box now looks vaguely menacing, for some reason.

The epoxy likely didn't form a 100% perfect seal - mostly because I didn't have quite enough on hand to do the job and therefore spread it a bit thin - so I'll probably mix up a batch of something that's a bit thinner and apply it to the inside of the aluminum/plastic joint. That should hold everything together pretty solidly...and if I can't find a thin epoxy, I can always default to 3M 5200. Here's a shot of what the inside looks like, at current:

Pictured: The inside, at current.

I don't really see too many problems with getting a 6.5" or 6.75" driver mounted here, except for that little recessed area on the mounting deck, adjacent to the molded-in wire tunnel; I might have to work a bit to seal that up. It'll be awhile before I have the caps to afford a speaker to fill the hole - I have an AntiRock to buy, after all - but I'll get there sooner or later, hopefully without resorting to begging. Penny for the Guy?

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If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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It'll be awhile before I have the caps to afford a speaker to fill the hole

Just to add a possible option to your list - it's possible, dare I say easy, to fit a shallow 8" Kicker sub there with only some minor trimming to the plastic splines in the back. I'm sure other brands' shallow-mounts would fit as well. Might give you some more easily-sourced options for that mid-range base...

Just to add a possible option to your list - it's possible, dare I say easy, to fit a shallow 8" Kicker sub there with only some minor trimming to the plastic splines in the back. I'm sure other brands' shallow-mounts would fit as well. Might give you some more easily-sourced options for that mid-range base...

I'm actually going to fit a true 8" sub elsewhere and use it for my lower-end stuff; it won't give me the same results as a 10" but it will take up FAR less room and do what I need it to do. To my way of thinking, the biggest problem that exists in a TJ is the level of ambient noise that drowns out the middle frequencies; it's easy to get the highs to where you need them and it's easy to create bass, but the middle range is so easily killed off that it needs all the help it can get. To that end, I figured that a single 6.5/"6.75" driver running in bridged mono on the rear channels - sort of an "L-R" thing - would be good for fill/volume and help the missing midrange to show back up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobthetj03

I tried!

That's the important part.

__________________
If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

Today's Jeeping focused on price-shopping AntiRocks and a few other odds and ends; cable for Greta's wiring upgrade - upgrayedd - was high on the list, as was a cable shifter. I also thought really hard about buying a set of chromoly shafts...

__________________
If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

I'll be interested in what you find for wiring upgrades, specifically headlight wiring.

I'm going to run the heaviest cable I can get away with for all of my main power and ground wires...probably 2 for everything except an amplifier, which will be 4. I'm not sure what I'll need for a winch, yet, but I think 2 would actually be somewhat undersized for the amperage that most winches draw under full load. As far as headlights are concerned, I'll be replacing the entire headlight wiring harness; none of the stock wires are up to the task of powering any H4 bulb that's worth the trouble to install. I haven't sized those wires yet, either; I need to go back over my e-mails with Daniel Stern and see what he was suggesting and then decide whether I want to order components and build it all myself, or simply purchase it from him, pre-made. The decision will rest on whether or not I expect to use similar wire gauges in other locations...and I don't know that, yet. Either way, all of that information will be posted as it becomes relevant.

__________________
If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

Today's Jeeping: Not much, on the whole. I'm still looking around for a good deal on an AntiRock, and I'm price-shopping a few other things, here and there. I did, however, lay claim to...something. More details on what that "something" might be will be posted as said details firm up. This is the part where I'm terribly mysterious...on purpose.

__________________
If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

Today's Jeeping: Not much, on the whole. I'm still looking around for a good deal on an AntiRock, and I'm price-shopping a few other things, here and there. I did, however, lay claim to...something. More details on what that "something" might be will be posted as said details firm up. This is the part where I'm terribly mysterious...on purpose.