Description

Don't miss this one! Great climbing. The climb can be recognized by three large roofs that the bolt line goes through. Start below the first roof and head straight up. After clipping the third bolt, a reachy move gets you past the large second roof (think, hand Jam, though I have heard of people finding a crimp somewhere). Technical climbing and stemming through the rest of the climb gets you to the anchors.

As good as any 5.11 in New Mexico! When you reach the anchors (at least 50ft, though I'll agree it's no rope-stretcher) you won't likely find yourself needing more. Steep and juggy, to steep and technical, to just over vertical and technical. Climbs like a 12a, and could get that rating at some crags. Can get a tenuous rest or two after the roof crux, but this route is characterized by sustained difficult climbing.

This thing is way harder than Lucky Boy 11c, Quick Draw Mcgraw 11b/c and I think harder than Gunslinger 11d. its certainly more sustained than any of the above. So 11c? 11d? 12a? aah who cares, its a great climb!