It
is no secret that many “Old time” Flemish Giant breeders do not
breed and show the Blues. They consider them difficult
(bordering on impossible!) due to the fact that maintaining bone and
size is not easy. Most blues from the past could never be
compared to the Sandies and Fawns of today in type, size or bone. And
they are right. But the Blue color is a beautiful and unusual
variety that should be appreciated and improved before it is lost.

The
Blue variety was accepted to the ARBA Standard in 1919, the same
year as the Whites (and before the Fawns!). They were very
popular in the 1920’s and 30’s but fell out of favor over the
next 40 years, much to the detriment of the gene pool.

The
blue is a recessive color that takes a genetic “back seat” to
any other color present. So maintaining the proper blue is
difficult if the “wrong” colors are bred together. But
color cannot supersede the considerations for type and bone. Over
the last 20 years, it has been difficult to find Blues with
different genetic make-ups. They have been bred in small
pockets around the country, and it is only with great effort that
breeders got to share their gene pools. Out of necessity, some
lines tended to be inbred (or tightly line bred) to the detriment of
the variety. The gene pool was very small and mixed (some
breeders called it “polluted”) with other colors. But a few
hardy souls are trying to change that. The number of Blues appearing
on the show tables is way up in the Northeast right now, and they
are finally getting some recognition. Over the last few years,
ARBA is seeing a rise in the number of Blues being registered and
Grand Championed (for the first time in over 10 years!). In
2004, at the ARBA National Convention, the Blue Flemish Doe that
took BOV got very serious consideration for Best in Breed, with an
honorable mention by the judges.

When
starting out, you may not be able to get Blues that are perfect, but
know what you should be working towards. If you get a Blue
Flemish with excellent loin/hips but lacking in the shoulders or
length, then look for a complimentary (Blue/Black) Flemish that has
what your animal is missing. If you have good length, look for
one with the bone or rise you need. And have patience.
It may take several generations to see real improvement. Be
very particular with what you keep for breeding. Weigh your
litters as they grow. Start evaluating them at 6 weeks for bone
and rise. At 8-12 weeks, only keep the best one or two. One
advantage to the Blues and Blacks, you know if you have a good base
color from the onset!

My
research and personal experience has reinforced what I was told
years ago by some of the more established breeders (Not counting the
ones that told me to forget the blues and get a real Flemish!). Blue
should only be bred with Blue or “Self” Blacks. Genetically
speaking, a rabbit’s color is either an “agouti” or a
“self”. “Agouti” refers to a banded hair shaft, or
multiple colors in the coat (giving the appearance of rings in the
light gray, banding in the Sandy and Fawn, and flecking in the
Steel). A “Self” rabbit is one solid color. In
Flemish, the “selfs” are Blue, Black and White. As
mentioned, Fawn, Light Gray, Sandy and Steel Gray are agoutis.
A “Self Black” is a solid Black rabbit with only Black or Blue
in the generations behind it.

The
Blue color is described in the Flemish Giant Standard as a deep,
rich, slate blue color with consistent color over the body and head. They
are the only variety with the Blue/Gray eye color. The Blue is,
genetically speaking, a dilute black. So crossing those colors
will produce consistent Blues and Blacks. The problems occur
when introducing an “Agouti Black” that appears to be a solid
(Self) Black but “carries” (descends from) Light Grays or
Steels. Since breeding Light Grays and/or Steels can produce
Blacks, most blacks today carry the agouti gene (even though they
may look solid black). This is why an honest pedigree is so
important to breeding good blues. A Black that carries agouti
genes will severely affect the Blue color, throwing “Steel
Blues” (Blue with white ticking), white ear lacing, white toe
nails, wrong eye color, poor under color, etc, all of which are
disqualifications on the show table. Keep in mind that ear
lacing and ticking may not show up until the rabbit is 6-10 months
of age. So it pays to know what’s behind your lines so there
are no surprises. I’ve been disappointed a few times raising
what I thought was a promising young Blue, only to have it develop
white ear lacing or white ticking on the body.

Keep
in mind that finding a totally self Black is almost impossible,
(referred to as the “Holy Grail” for a Blue breeding program!). But
if you are looking for a Black to use with a Blue breeding program,
look for one with as little “agouti colors” as possible in the
pedigree. Or consider a Black out of a Blue Breeding program.

If
possible, I have always used a Black in every second generation with
my Blues. This keeps the Blue a deep rich color as described in
the Standard. To explain, if I do a Blue/Blue breeding, those
offspring will be bred to a Black. Offspring of a Blue/Black
breeding will be mated with a Blue, if possible. I say “if
possible”, because nothing is perfect and it can be difficult to
maintain the variety and numbers of rabbits needed. But always
keep in mind that you owe it to the animals to breed the best you
can, and as close to the Standard as possible.

A
short word on pedigrees… that piece of paper that diagrams
what’s “behind” your rabbit. It usually only show 3-4
generations, including the lead rabbit. Hidden or recessive
genes can be carried for many more generations than what’s printed
on the paper. A case in point… one of my first Blue/Black
breedings produced a pair of Whites. They were beautiful (and
they got me started with my separate White lines…) but why did
they come out of that litter? There were no whites on the
pedigree! It took much research and the cooperation of other
dedicated breeders, but we found a white behind BOTH parents, 11 and
13 generations back. That is a long time to carry a recessive gene!
(Just for your information, for a white to show up in a
“non-white” breeding, BOTH sire and dam must carry a white gene.
In breeding White to White, you will ALWAYS get White.)

Keep accurate records on each breeding and what comes out of it. Sometimes
two “so-so” animals will throw the most amazing offspring. Know
your animals and what’s behind them. Good breeding will show
in your animals and reflect on the show table. Shortcuts and
quick fixes won’t work. Persistence and patience will. Develop
your stock for the right reasons. Know the Standard and know
what you are working towards. And don’t be afraid to ask
questions. Ask other breeders, get more than one opinion, ask
Judges. Don’t be dissuaded.

Breeding
the Blues and Blacks is not for the faint of heart or the breeder
that has to win every time they go to a show. You have to
really love the variety and be willing to work towards the goal of
producing a rabbit that meets or exceeds the Standard. Know the
breed, know the Standard and be aware of the challenge. And
from me to you, Good Luck!