Bar Fly: Publican’s first solo venture, Billie H, is on song

MAX VEENHUYZEN, PerthNow

October 20, 2016 3:05am

PRO TIP: Make sure you’ve finished all your shopping at Claremont Quarter before dropping in at Billie H. The reason is two-fold. First, the combination of alcohol and luxury shopping is dangerous to your financial health. And second, once you’ve gotten comfortable, you’re not going to want to leave.

Until late August, this plot of St Quentin Ave was Asado, an Argentinian-themed steakhouse and small bar. After a new owner, a speedy makeover and a swathe of black paint, the space has been transformed into Billie H. It opened barely a month after publican Dan Goodsell picked up the keys.

Though this might be Goodsell’s first solo venue, he has serious runs on the board, not the least including being Nic Trimboli’s right-hand man for a long period.

This experience is evident in Billie H’s polish so soon after opening.

While the name is a nod to jazz singer Billie Holiday, Billie H isn’t a jazz bar. While the presence of a turntable, a shelf of records and musical notation on the wine glasses chime with the theme, the real clue to the space’s nature is its “supper/wine bar” tag. Yes, you’ll eat well here (take a bow, chef Alia Glorie) but you’ll also drink exceedingly well.

The list opens with “sippers” ($9-$23), start-of-night favourites that range from cider to pastis. It’s interesting, thoughtful stuff, but the real meat is in the wine choices. Here the 23 by-the-glass choices ($10-$27) span everything from classic Australian fortifieds to bright-eyed Loire Valley chenin and delicious local pinot noir.

There’s a good chance you won’t be across all the cellar’s contents, but enthusiastic staff and Goodsell himself are on hand to guide drinkers. If only all neighbourhood wine bars were as good as this Holiday.