I ran a 102 I think..It was a 100 or 102 I threw in there and went down from there as I needed to gear up to keep the roll out the same. And if you are speaking of the 90/95 tooth spurs that came with the Surikarn, yes they fit.

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and not to lump all mags together - but one primary source of revenue is advertisers and when you're reviewing their product. . .well. . .that big grain of salt comes into play.

Thanks Boomer. I'm a racer myself and race on a very tight budget. I don't want to spend my hard earned money on something that is a pile, and I don't know anyone who does. I, along with others I know (such as Shane) don't like it when people blow a product up to be the greatest thing out there that you absolutely must by now. Yeah, the manufacturer's pay to advertise, but readers pay for the magazine itself. What's worse, getting a manufacturer cross with you while providing honset feedback so they can further improve a kit or losing any and all credibility by publishing a BS review? I know which I would rather do....

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the only problem with running a 64p 100 tooth or higher spur gear is that you have to modify the motor adjustment cam to use anything bigger then a 38 tooth pinion. I run a 64p 100/39 with my reedy 19t and in order to do this I had to dremel my adj cam.
In some cases with smaller tires I have run a 41 pinion but anything bigger would require you to modify the motor mount heatsink that runs along the right side for clearance. I did this to the parts that came in the kit after I purchased the factory team aluminum parts. And by doing this to the stock parts I shaved a bit of weight of the car. instead of removing some material from the heatsink I just cut it of completely.

yeah in mod it wont be a issue but in 19t( especialy the reedy quad whitch i gear about 2-3 teeth higher then my chameleon) and stock it is when you run a smaller tire. I initaly cut my foams to 2.25 but after a while they end up being much smaller which requires a bigger pinion.

Originally posted by Tbevofreak You guys have been a great help thanx!

I'm ordering my kit tomorow morning on the net!

I'll let you know if my building turns out ok! (you probably don't give a damn about that but.... )

SEE YA LATER!

I give a damn! I care!

If you simply take your time and cut each part off the spru properly, and take some time to build it well, it will be a perfectly fine car.

Here's to your building success!

Plus, too many people have it in their heads that for a car to be "GREAT!" it must have Ti this and Al that.

TOTAL BULLSHITE!

People say the TC4 seems cheap because it's made of "plastic."

Actually, it's a molded carbon impregnated resin. A material that when compared to ANY metal besides Titanium is stronger per unit of weight than ANY other metal.

It's made out of that material for a reason. Metal bends, tweaks and otherwise is malleable. Carbon impregnated resin/plastic parts either survive or break, very rarely do they bend.

Now maybe some will understand why MANY pro drivers opt to run the old TC3 "plastic" dogbones as opposed to the Al ones. In a hit, the Al bones will ALWAYS bend horribly easily. The fibre/plastic ones will simply flex and take the abuse...or break. However if a fibre bone breaks, most likely your arm and control link is history as well.

I simply LOVE it when KIDS bash the work of PHD holding Engineers in their 30's /40's.

Speedway PAL has just finished up there prototype Alloy diff for the TC3/4.... This diff is actually lighter than the IRS diff by 1.5 grams and it will allow you to shim the diff even more than the stock one.....so that means better gear mesh and a quieter drive train...and as a added feature the diff will use durlin dogbone blades for less wear... ..
I will post a pic as soon as I receive mine
-Dave