Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Dan Bishop is hard at work finalizing his latest creation,
and soon enough that creation can make its way into your sweaty, or not so
sweaty, little hand.

“What creation is that?” you ask.

Well here’s a quick sneak peek at the AWESOME floating around in Dan's brain. Consider this the teaser that movie companies put out 18
months prior to the movie ever being released…but you won't be waiting 18 months to get this, we promise.

So revel in the pictures, hope this wets your appetite for more pen goodness.

*Be advised the "smooth" cap featured in these images is a damaged "one off" cap that I salvaged from a pen. When it is manufactured this pen will feature a knurled cap like that of the traditional Render K.*

Friday, June 19, 2015

The idea to do some nib swaps with my INK came about after
reading through INK Kickstarter comments and further readings on Fountain Pen
Network were a large group of fountain pen enthusiasts complained about the size
of the actual nib, tip size availability, or the quality of Schmidt nibs in
general. Having never tried a Schmidt nib until I got my INK, I wasn’t overly
impressed nor was I dismayed in the way mine wrote. It functioned well right
out of the box. My wife’s INK required nib tuning several times due to flow and
hard start issues. And while I would have liked a “finer” point the German fine
on the Schmidt worked good enough. I didn’t mess with my INK due to it being a
daily user, so while I had a list of nibs I intended to eventually swap into my
INK I never attempted it. Until I got a little more adventurous.

First off you are going to require a clean tabletop or desk
area that is relatively well lit. At home I have a dedicated pen repair table
but my desk at work is adequate. I would suggest a two foot by two foot clean
space just so you can set stuff aside without knocking anything on the ground.

You need some source material. A Karas Kustoms INK is a good
place to start, plus a few extra Schmidt nibs. Along with that you will want to
have sourced a decent vintage nib. Here’s the tricky part, vintage nib sizes
were not standardized. So a Waterman’s 5 and a Sheaffer’s 5 were not the same
size, and even on nibs that are the same size the curvature of the nib itself
is often different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Lucky for you I have
found a few vintage nibs that work.

By far the easiest to source and therefore cheapest nibs
that work in the Schmidt #5 nib/feed/collar unit are either the Sheaffer’s TD 14K, Sheaffer’s
Feathertouch 5, and Sheaffer’s 33 nibs.

The Sheaffer’s TD nib can be sourced from Sheaffer’s TM
Touchdown filling fountain pens from the 1940’s, either the Statesman,
Sovereign, or Admiral Models. The nib itself sometimes says Sheaffer’s 14K 5 or
Sheaffer’s 14K. They range in nib size from XF – B and can be found in some
“custom” types like stub, italic, etc, though those are quite a bit more
expensive.

The Sheaffer’s Feathertouch 5 was a duo-point nib that
Sheaffer’s began using in it’s non-Lifetime line of pens after 1931. The slit
plating was purported to increase ink flow, which was why the nib was deemed
the “Feathertouch” as it would write with a feather touch to the paper.

The final option is the Sheaffer’s No 33 nib from a Sheaffer’s
Craftsman or Balance. This nib also comes in XF-B, with F and M being the
easiest to find, and there are some “custom” types available but again the
prices for those nibs will be quite a bit more.

Pens with these nibs can be found on Ebay for as low as 5-10
dollars if they are missing parts, i.e. caps or levers, or have barrel damage.
Ensure you check out all the pictures for potential nib damage, if it looks
broke don’t buy it. Also and most importantly, if there aren’t any pictures or
the seller won’t send you any extra pictures, STAY AWAY! You can get clean
examples of complete pens with either nib for 15-25 dollars easily, and this is
what a Schmidt nib will run you anyway. Another place to look is Nibs.com a
store that sells vintage fountain pen nibs. His prices are a little higher but
he provides quality inspected nibs that are free of any damage and he provides
awesome photos for reference.

One thing to note is that even though these nibs are
somewhat standard, most of them have sat in a pen for years and the metal has
changed shape some, getting one that is a “perfect” fit might be a tad bit
difficult, however, the first nib of either that I grabbed work quite well in
my INKs.

Another item that comes in handy for this nib swap is a
small piece of rubber “grip”. Some pen repair sites or even online pen stores
are now carrying their own versions of this tool. However, a three inch by one
inch piece of bicycle tire will work just as well. A small glass container of
water is helpful, one that is about the same size and shape of a cup of yogurt
works best I have found. And last a few microfiber cloths come in handy to
ensure you don’t go crazy with ink or water spills.

If you have purchased just a nib, then you can skip a few of
these next steps. But if you purchased a complete or semi-complete pen you are
going to need to remove the nib from the pen. Just yanking on it rarely works,
even when you use a “grip” the nib is usually crusted by ink and basically
stuck. If you don’t intend on keeping the pen parts for use later, then you can
aggressively soak the nib and feed with water to loosen it up. Put the pen, nib
down, in your glass container and fill the container with water up to the
barrel threads. I use distilled or filtered water for this, but tap water is ok
if you are tossing the pen. This may take 24 hours to really get the nib loose
enough to pull free, but once it’s soaked for a few hours, remove it from the
glass. Dry off the nib with your cloth, it’s way too hard to pull a nib free
when it’s all wet with water and ink residue. I always attempt to pull the nib
free with just my fingers first, I advise wearing latex or thin rubber gloves
unless you enjoy inky fingers. Firmly grab the nib and feed between your thumb
and index finger and pull directly out. Do not twist the nib and feed as this
can do damage to the nib tines that might require professional repair. If the
nib comes out then toss the nib back in the water for a bit to soak. If not
grab your rubber grip and try it again. Rarely have I had a nib and feed that
won’t come out after 24 hours of soaking while using a rubber grip. In the even
that happens using a hairdryer on a low setting and gently applying heat to the
nib, feed and section should loosen it up enough to pull the nib and feed out.

Once you have the nib out, let it soak for a bit, I usually
add some Dawn dish soap to the water and give it a few hours. After a bit
remove the nib from the glass. Dry it off with your cloth and use a Q-tip to
get any leftover ink off the nib. Very rarely you will run across a nib that
has ink “caked” on the nib even after soaking. Chances are someone used a
“permanent” or Iron Gall ink in it and it has adhered to the nib. In extreme
cases the nib may have taken damage from corrosion or just have persistent ink
residue, getting this cleared up is a step-by-step process where each step uses
a slightly more aggressive cleaning agent.

First use one part 100% unscented ammonia and nine parts
water and soak the nib. After soaking use an old toothbrush and attempt to brush
off the offending substance. If this doesn’t work, you can purchase Simichrome
or Flitz from Amazon or other online retailers (some hardware stores still
carry tubes of Flitz check the ones in your area). These are metal polishes and
use abrazives and chemicals, so glove up and be careful. Apply a dab of either
to a Q-tip and start on the underside of the nib working the substance in with
firm, even pressure. You should see it shine the metal immediately and after
some passes you should be able to pull of all the leftover ink and expose any
potential corrosive pitting if there is any. Be careful on the top side of the
nib as two tones nibs will not react well with either Simichrome or Flitz. They
will strip away the “chrome” plating and leave the nib all gold. If that’s ok
with you then clean away like you did on the underside. If not then only clean
off the gold portion, most times the corrosion is limited to this area and the
underside so you should be good. In the event you still have some substance remaining,
you can purchase Micromesh sheets from Amazon or pen stores make sure to get a
sheet of 12000 grit micromesh. No matter what other grits you get, you want to
start with the least aggressive grit first and 12000 is the least aggressive.
Use the Micromesh as you would sandpaper, to get the underside of the nib, I
use a Q-tip to really press it in. This should remove any of the last of the
substance and leave you with a bright and shiny nib.

Now that you have your reclaimed nib ready to go, it’s time
to get out your Schmidt nib unit. I have found it easiest to pull out the
Schmidt nib with it screwed into the section and the section attached to the
INK barrel. There is just more to hold on to and you don’t have to apply any
crazy pressure or strain, it’s just a natural pulling motion and the nib and
feed should slip right free from the collar. Having done this set aside the nib
and grab your Sheaffer’s nib.

Aligning a nib to a feed can be somewhat tedious, and there
are different depths to “set the nib” for different styles of nibs. I err on
the side of aligning the “wings” of the nib with the “slopes” of the feed (see
image). This way you have a feed that is generally set far enough forward to
maintain ink flow and maximize the writing ability of the nib. But with a
vintage nib being applied to a modern feed and collar system you might have to
fiddle around with the depth of the nib on the feed. I usually dip test the nib
at this time just to see if there are any major issues with the nib/feed set
up, but you can’t rely on just a dip test to ensure the ink is flowing
correctly. After a dip test if you feel the nib is performing as it should and
there are no visible issues with the performance or fit of the nib in the
collar, then it’s time to move to filling the pen and writing a true writing
sample.

I advise filling a converter through the nib and feed rather
than using a cartridge or filling the converter by itself with it detached from
the pen. As this will allow you to observe ink entering the filling system and
could clue you in to possible issues prior to writing. Once you have the
converter filled, I encourage a good page worth of words. But don’t be disturbed
if your pen stops writing or gushes ink onto the page. Adjustments to the nib and
feed will likely need to be made. That’s why we stayed “gloved up”. When you
run into an inkflow issue proper diagnosing is key to fixing the problem in the
quickest amount of time. If you don’t have to pull the nib and feed, then don’t.
You might have a misaligned tine or it could be that you didn’t seat the nib
and feed all the way into the collar. The Schmidt feed when spun in the collar
and pushed inwards will “fit” into place at one spot. This will optimize your
nib and feed in the collar itself and I advise trying this first if you have
flow issues.

In the event that you need to pull the nib and feed, remove
the converter first and set it aside. Then pull the nib and feed. You are going
to get ink all over the place, use your microfiber cloth to protect anything of
value. Reinsert the nib and feed changing the alignment of the two. Then insert
the converter. Sometimes you will run into a nib that looks like it will work
but no matter how hard you try it just won’t write. It happens and it sucks.
But I have found quite a few of my vintage nibs after a bit of tweaking on how
they sit on the feed and the depth with which they are in the collar, will indeed
write and write well.

Hopefully, you got one to work. Don’t be discouraged if you
didn’t. If you are attempting this, you are likely in the 10% of people brave
enough to want to tinker with your fountain pen. I applaud you for at least
attempting. If you succeeded on your first try that’s an even greater success.
I got lucky on my first nib swap, then promptly failed on the next seven until
I went back to another Sheaffer’s nib and gave it a try. As I said, not all
nibs will work, but it is likely you will find one that will work if you follow
my instructions.

If you run into questions, concerns or problems leave a
comment and I will get back to you. I also have a list of nibs that I have
found don’t work but I won’t list them here, you can obtain them from me via a
message here or sent to my email info@karaskustoms.com

DISCLAIMER: Removing and replacing
nibs and feeds is done with the knowledge that we cannot replace any damaged
parts due to changes made by the consumer. This article is informational only
and the author conducted all changes to his pens knowing that it could
potentially result in damage to the nib, feed, or collar assembly and
potentially the pen itself. Changes and repairs to our pens will not be covered
under our normal customer service and repair/replacement policy.

Karas Kustoms does not recommend you conduct these changes
on their pens. These are aftermarket “modifications” that are being done by the
customer. Karas Kustoms is not related to Sheaffer’s Pens or its parent company
A.T. Cross Company. These modifications were done without the knowledge of
Sheaffer’s or A.T. Cross Company with vintage Sheaffer’s parts purchased and sourced
by the author.

Friday, June 12, 2015

Before we begin our adventure in search of the perfect
vintage nib, I think it’s important that I introduce myself and give you an
idea of my background, interests and how I came to be at Karas Kustoms.

Three things I enjoy: Pens, Words and Biking

My name is Paul. I am the Marketing and Customer Service
Lead here are Karas Kustoms. Chances are if you had an issue or question in the
last week and a half, you either called me or emailed me and hopefully I was
able to help you get some clarity or information. I am relatively new here but
have caught on quick and truly feel right at home.

My career background is pretty diverse, I have worked in a
library, later as a truck driver, served 7 years in the U.S. Army, then spent 5
years in retail management and now I am working for a small machine shop in
Mesa, AZ helping get some of the greatest quality machined pens into your
grubby little hands. So all in all, my career trip to this point has been
varied, but it’s all been worth it as it prepared me to do a great job working
for Karas Kustoms.

This is a great time to talk about how I came to be working
at Karas Kustoms.

About a year ago, I began using a fountain pen in hopes of
improving my VERY poor handwriting. I purchased an inexpensive Chinese fountain
pen and messed around with it for a month or so before tossing it aside because
it had extremely poor balance. I went back online and this time picked up a
“vintage” fountain pen, a Sheaffer’s Balance. This pen was aesthetically striking
with its Golden Brown Striated celluloid and its shiny gold nib. What I failed
to understand prior to purchasing this pen, was that almost all vintage pens
that are sold on sites like Ebay do not function. They are old antiques with
crystallized inner workings and ink clotted nibs. When I realized this I was
left with two choices; send the pen to a vintage pen repair/restoration expert
or learn to repair the pen myself.

The choice was an easy one because I figured I could invest
50 dollars in repair tools, another 50 dollars on “beater” pens to practice on,
and then scour the internet for tutorials in order to learn the basics on
repair techniques. I did just that and over the next nine months went from a
novice that ruined quite a few pens and nibs to a relatively skilled pen
repairman. I don’t have the tools to conduct full restorations, but I can work
with nearly any pen or filling mechanism and return an old, beat up pen to one
that functions just like it was meant to.

It was about six months into my journey with fountain pens,
when my wife informed me of the INK Kickstarter that Karas Kustoms was doing.
She backed the Kickstarter for three pens, and when they finally came in, she
gave me one. I quite liked the pen. It was super durable which was perfect
since my job could frequently involve physical labor and I often broke pens or
didn’t carry a pen because of this reason. My INK became my everyday carry pen.
It fit perfectly in my front pants pocket, and I didn’t leave home without. Not
only did it go everywhere with me, I used it all the time. It always worked no
matter what situation I was in, my INK wrote the second it touched paper. And that
meant a lot to me because a lot of fountain pens don’t write on contact.

My Desk (Left some of my repaired pens, Right Karas Pens)

I had the opportunity to take a day and check out Karas
Kustoms in person, so I headed down with the idea that I would take 15 minutes
or so and chat with Dan about pens and his vision and maybe try some of Karas’
other pens. My 15 minute visit turned into a 2 hour stay that entailed a tour,
checking out future products and seeing some of the test color INKs that were
made. It was an awesome day to say the least. I also had the opportunity to
take a vintage pen of Dan’s home and fix it. This of course prompted a second
trip to drop off the pen and that trip ended up lasting a few hours. Suffice it
to say, over the next few months I dropped in two or three more times and spent
at least an hour each time chatting with Dan and sometimes Bill about all
things pens. It was pretty cool for a self-professed Pen Nerd.

I happened to be unemployed when the Marketing and Customer
Service Lead position became available. And when I heard about it, I jumped at
the opportunity to work here. Luckily they decided I was a pretty good fit for
the job as well.

As a Pen Nerd I bring a passion for the product Dan has
designed and Bill and his team have put in thousands of hours refining and
machining that not many people understand. I thoroughly enjoy writing and the
feeling I get when I am done creating something out of words is like nothing
else I have experienced. I believe that a person’s writing instrument says a
lot about them as a thinker and creator. I want people to get the same
enjoyment from using a pen as I do, and to get just a little too excited about
something as mundane as a pen. I think our pens accomplish all that and more.
They are reminiscent of the retro stylings of classic hot rods and trucks, you
know, the old metal ones that still turn your head when you see them on the
road. Our pens do the same thing, people notice them. But not in a snobbish way
as many fancy writing instruments do, in a way that we all can connect to, as
something really cool that you want to touch and try out. Most of all, I think
our pens will truly make you WANT to write again, and I think that’s something
that you just don’t find in most of today’s writing instruments.

Having said all that I will close with just a few more tid-bits
about me. I am happily married and just celebrated my 15 year wedding anniversary.
I have a 12 year old daughter who tries to run our lives. Besides pens, writing
and pen repair; I also enjoy reading, biking, kayaking and spending time with
my family.

I think it’s going to be quite fun as we begin this weekly
journey via the Karas Kustoms Blog. Who knows where it might lead us. We might
get crazy and dig into Pen History, decide to take a virtual tour through the
shop, go on a photo shoot with Tommy or spend some time talking shop with Bill
and Dan. Whatever the case is, this will be an outlet for things that are more “off
the beaten path” as it were in relation to Karas Kustoms. I hope you don’t mind
and I hope you keep reading.