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Selling my beloved S15 MCA Gold series coiloverscheaper than the MCA Red series.
The Golds are all custom hand made and designed for all road setups.
Springs are King Springs, 400 lbs (7.1 kg) front and 325 lbs (5.8 kg) rear spring rate, linear springs.
Only used for 30,xxx kms, daily for a year and then a weekend only car with the odd hill run.
Not required yet but these can either be rebuilt at any motorcycle shop or at the MCA workshop in QLD.
Car was defected so had to change back to stock and decided to save for an engine build.
Has many adjustments for travel, castor (over 9 degrees each side), front camber, front toe, rebound and dampening.
They can get very low but depends if you want to look cool or care about roll centre correction for handling.
You can call Josh or Murray Coote for support on these from the MCA suspension website:
https://mcasuspension.com/
Asking $2500 or near offer.
Local pickup welcome from West of Adelaide or southern suburbs area.
WILL POST FOR $50 ANYWHERE IN AU.
Any questions, just ask.
Cheers.

Hey guys, in the process of making an aero package for my S13.
Wanted to get a thread going - Pics and info below for each post.
Lets get everyone motivated!
1. Total cost
2. Time spent
3. Rating on handling improvement 1-10
4. Material used (Thickness etc)
5. Where did you test it
Want to get a good topic going (As these forums seem like they are dying =( )
I'll update with mine in the coming weeks

Nissan 2002 S15 project car for sale.
Rolling Chassis with dash and centre console which will go with the car.
Full drift works knuckles and suspension arms
Drift works braided brake lines
Drift works hydraulic hand brake and braided lines
ISC coilovers
Nardi Steering wheel
Aeroflow Fuel cell
Custom boot mounts for fuel cell
Custom metal work for rear bash bar, chassis rails, jack point
Custom Metal work short rear parcel shelf and sealed partition between cabin and boot.
Rota GTR-D 18x10 rims all round (same wheels being used on Drift Works UK S15 2J 1000hp drift car)
There are probably heaps of other things but that's the main build so far.
Selling due to just bought a house.
Car is stripped and been building for 3 years and only used new quality parts. Full interior painted.
Sell price $7,000 Ono
Contact me for any questions or queries.
Damien
0404009828

https://i.imgur.com/NYJwdk8.jpgGO TO LAST PAGE -->
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-Hey guys, so not too much about me but I've just turned 19, had my R32 Skyline gts-4 rb20det stolen two days after i moved in to a new house.. Still with family, need money for this!) What I always say is there's not much point in using the words 'could' 'should' 'would' or thinking about negatives so I decided to just move on as quickly as I can. I searched for weeks online scouring the QLD for registerable 180sx shells whilst keeping a keen eye for my r32 parts :\
I was selling a van, my brother got it for very cheap and gave it to me to sell out of compassion, will never forget that. In the ad i would take a 180sx shell with cash adjustment, this guy had no cash but offered me the shell, which was lucky he kept it off-market while I got the van sold (4ish weeks)
Price of shell $1000 ono (UPDATE 15/4/20: The price was negotiated down to $600, and to date I've easily sold 400-500 of stuff, got another 200 to sell along with parts I will be keeping to use like the one piece drive shaft, r200, half shafts, etc)
Sold van $3,500,
Bought my brothers Honda Civic EK1 - $2000
Registered (perfect for a daily, fuel, weight, fwd safety in rain, etc) Oh and the best part is he left his stereo in there as he has loads of gear, it's only a 300w amp with 2x 10inch subs but it vibrates the glass, your bones and hair on your body at 90% volume
Also if my context of time is a bit confusing in this first post it's because I just started this thread after it all happened about 1 month ago, so I will post "progress" in one or two posts after this then time will be live
So I finally dragged my brother and my dad along on the two hour drive, and seen the silhouette of the 180 in the driveway as we arrived, I could feel them internally cringing, smashed windscreen, no driver door or quarter glass, grim reaper bonnet hahaha, and etc. Pretty much looked like this
bonnet
First thing I did was gurney it off, something retarded happened and I musta slipped my right hand being wet or something and the gun pointed at my left hand tearing off 1/2" squared of skin, stung for whole night and day after baha, next best to the old knuckle bash.
Here she is at the yard (Location god damn disclosed, no info for potential thiefs -.-) with all that stripped interior taken out and organised.
Was as absolute bitch to get on and especially off the trailer as it was 'rolling' without coilovers, uprights wired to the strut tops and sitting on stockies. Like sitting, the wheel arches onto the tyres haha, very hard to roll even with the low weight
Came with some goodies, 2L surge tank I am painting at the very moment so pics in next post, with 044 External Bosch, and apparently a 040 in the tank which I will found out soonish. Came with sard FPR, some good looking stereo gear, Bunch of thick gauge wire inc. power, few rca cables, extra relays for thermo and pump etc, all stock relay boxes/fuses and some kind of loom. This weird Boost controller thing? Seems to be a solenoid but no wires? Couldn't be a tee as no adjustment? If anyone knows lemme know
Pignose/CA Front bar with lip (Genuine and came on car) The only front bumper I lovee!
Here's all the interior, selling the green keeping red
UPDATE: Sold most of it, got boot trims on reserve for a guy to trade for sunroof and RH door which I need
My first steps are the get the car stripped so I can prep the shell, have got the crossmember off and jesus it's heavy to shift on your own. Guess the car's weight has to come from somewhere.
1 foot of progress ~ 3 mins
3 metres of progress ~ 25 mins and pooped out
Finally in haha, you can probably see in the last photo I was going for the shipping container (my uncles but he lets me use back section) where my parts are but gave up and put into the demountable until I can get a hand or strip it down.

Hey all, just wanted some info on these 2 coilovers as it is one of these 2 I will be buying for my S15. Just wanted to know which one do you guys perfer / think is better? The car will mainly be a street car but I do want to do some track days etc mountain runs and so on. Just want some info on what everyone thinks is a better choice / quality coilover. Thanks in advance!

These aftermarket ISC 52mm dual core radiators are fantastic value for money! They are a direct bolt on replacement for your standard unit and will help to keep your engine temperature at an all time low when driving your vehicle hard whether it be on the street or on the track.
RB20DET = $299
SR20DET S13 = $299
SR20DET S14/S15 = $299
RB25DET = $299
RB26DETT = $299
We have recently introduced this newly designed tube and fin intercooler kits into our large range of products. The interccoler itself is approx 40% lighter then another style of cooler (bar and plate). Each intercooler is polished and pressure tested after manufacturing to assure the highest level of quality for our customers. The core is also desinged with an oval tube to increase air flow and reduce turbulence making the cooling more efficient and better for over all performance.
The intercooler kits include a "tube and fin core" along with polished pipe work, clamps, brackets, silicon hoses, zip ties, washers, nuts, bolts and basically anything else needed for installation.
Kits are available for:
Skyline R32gtst = $499
Skyline R33gtst = $499
Skyline R34gtt = $499
Silvia S13 (sr20det) = $499
Silvia S14 = $499
Silvia S15 = $499
ON SALE FOR $399

THE FORGE WHEELS STORY
FORGE Wheels is a relatively new forged wheel company located in sunny Queensland, Australia. Our main aim is to fill the void in custom aftermarket wheels within the shores of Australia, we offer timeless, classic designs of 1-Piece monoblock & 3-Piece forged alloy wheels using the latest in state of the art design, engineering, testing and manufacturing processes.
We strive to deliver the highest quality product in the most realistic timeframe possible, each FORGE wheel is custom made to the customers exact order down to the very finest detail. To achieve this we have utilized the best in the business to design, manufacture, test and develop our products. Instead of starting from scratch and learning the long and hard way by establishing our own manafucturing plant here in Australia we have left the manufacturing of FORGE Wheels to the professionals, that's why all FORGE Wheels are proudly made in our California, U.S.A. based manufacturing facility using the most technologically advanced CNC machinery in the industry today.
Each FORGE wheel begins with 100% USA Made, Grade A 6061-T6 aluminum billet cut and placed into a 10,000 Ton forging press to forge the center disks or monoblock forgings. The result of the forging process is 6061 forged aluminum material with a totally refined grain structure, making the wheels both lightweight and extremely durable. These materials and processes are also used in aerospace manufacturing to ensure the highest level of quality and strength are attained. Once the raw center disk forgings are manufactured our 3-Piece rim halves are manufactured to the finest tolerances in the industry through CNC Spinning of 6061 Aluminum to achieve absolute trueness and run-out quality. Finally, each wheel is then hand finished and assembled using the finest in stainless steel or optional titanium hardware and then individually inspected to ensure the highest standard of quality control is maintained.
- 100% Made in USA using 100% Made in USA Forgings, Rim Halves and Fasteners
- Each and every wheel is designed, engineered and manufactured specifically for that vehicle. The result, a truly custom forged wheel in the exact width, offset, profile, brake clearance and concavity required.
- Testing of each new wheel design is completed by STL Labs in Masssilon, Ohio USA
- Every FORGE Wheel is built to exceed JWL and VIA wheel testing.
- Bespoke, 1-off and special edition wheel design and manufacturing available.
- Production time as little as 2 weeks from time of order!
CONTACT INFO
FORGE Wheels PTY LTD
Design Studio & Australian Distribution
29 Township Drive, Burleigh Heads,
QLD, AUSTRALIA 4220
(Strictly open by appointment only)
General inquiries: info@forge-wheels.com
Sales & Wholesale Accounts: sales@forge-wheels.com
Phone: 04-AU-FORGED (0428 367 433)
Website: www.forge-wheels.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/FORGEwheels
Instagram: forge_wheels
FORGE Wheels International
Manufacturing & Engineering Facility
Ontario, CA. USA 91761
(Closed to Public, Viewing for wholesalers and dealers by appointment only)
Below are some vehicle photoshoots of various FORGE Wheels fitted. For all general inquiries please email us info@forge-wheels.com

I thought it was about time I started a build/progress thread for my S13.
After playing around with my S15 (which is now nfi's, SX developments S15) doing sprints for a couple of years I decided to sell and buy something that I didn't mind too much if it got bent/damaged. I ended up buying "NS.com Thug"'s old s13 that already had most of the work done to it.
Current major mods:
Built SR20DET
Tomei Poncams Procam 260 12mm lift
Caltex Eflex e85/e72 fuel United E85
Trust T518z Kinugawa TD06sl2-20g
6Boost T3 manifold
Bond's bolt in 6 point cage Self made weld in cage.
Undercar surge tank + Bosch 040 57L fuel cell, Carter lift pump, 2L surge tank and 040.
Power FC Haltech S15 Platinium pro plugin
Blitz SBC ID-III
740cc injectors FiveOmotorsport 1200cc top feed injectors
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22 wheels or 17x9.5 +18
Federal Fz-201 255/40/r17 tyres or Hankook Z214 275/40/r17
Sparco bucket seats OMP HTE XL seat
Silkroad RMA08 coilovers 8/6kg Koni 8611/8610 shocks with 550lb/in F 400lb/in R springs
z32 gearbox conversion Z33 350z 6 speed
Garrett 600hp intercooler
R33 GTST brakes with adapter for 324mm front rotors
Obviously there are heaps of other mods, but not much else worth listing
Day I picked it up in July '08
Went drifting for a while
Entered a few comps, did ok, a few top 4 results
Got bored with drifting, went and did some sprints as well.
Posted some pretty good times and had plenty of fun, decided towards the end of '11 that I wanted to do some actual racing instead. This year I've been doing Queensland Raceways Topgear series, as well as I did "2 Days of Thunder" racing against proper sports sedans and a few v8 supercars
Qualified 2nd for my first race at Lakeside behind Callum in the Sil80. Almost claimed my first win in the second race until I was black flagged for leaving my window down.
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QR Top gear round
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2 Days of Thunder at QR
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Hey Guys,
The first round of the SA Championship (Motorbike Racing) is coming up. The event is held over the weekend from 26th to 27th of May.
The Saturday is a practice day for all the riders. The club running the event, Cafe Racers, also runs a rider race training school on this Saturday called Kneescrapers Training. At the Kneescrapers training, you start in the class room where they explain all the basics of track racing and setting up your bike. That finishes quite early and you are all let onto the track with the instructors to get a feel for it. For the rest of the day you alternate between the track and the classroom running through the individual corners, bike setup, body position, safety. You get heaps of free track time to just go for it.
If you're not interested in doing the kneescraper training, you dont have to. Just sign up for the practice day and you're out on the track.
The saturday will most likely consist of 4 seperate groups where only one group is on track at any time. The groups would be:
-Professional
-Amateur
-Novice
-Kneescrapers Training
If you decide that you loved the training day and want to enter one of the races on Sunday, then it's as easy as putting your name down. On Sunday, the following classes will be racing:
-Steve Martin Cup - A and B grade racer championship. Any Bike, Unlimited Mods
-Reece Bancell Cup - C and D grade racer championship. Any bike, any mod.
-Limited - 2 Strokes, Historics, Small Twins, Juniors etc
-C20 - Bikes and mods from the 20th Century (eg. 1999 R6)
-Bracket Racing - Amateur Class, Any bikes including road bikes.
If you are interested in starting to race, then Bracket Racing is for you. Only Amateur riders are allowed to enter. The races are fun, safe and only 6 laps so you dont need to be super fit.
If you are not interested in racing just yet, then still come out for the Sunday (May 27th). It will be a fantastic day. Organised for this event are:
-About 30 races
-Stunt riders
-Nissan GTR vs Yamaha R6 race!!!
-Jumping Castle and Facepainting
Entry is $10 for spectators.
Why should you get out to Mallala? Here is why.
Why race through the hills when you can do it legally at Mallala? That is just one of the small benefits.
You crash in the hills and you WILL be hitting a guard rail, a stobbie pole, a tree or a car. You're more than likely to be injured, or worse, and your bike is going to be badly damaged from whatever it has hit. The chances of crashing in the hills are so much higher than on the track due to blind corners, unpredictable surface and traffic going in the OPPOSITE direction to you!
You crash at the track and 95% of the time, you slide casually off the track and into the soft sand traps. Your bike comes out with scratches down the side, but it's all cosmetics, usually nothing mechanical is damaged. Your chances of crashing on the track are really only limited to how much you want to push it. Bike to bike collisions are rare in races and virtually non-existant in practices.
I used to race through the hills with mates, but since I started racing 5 years ago, I've never done that again since. I just don't have a need for it anymore. I get everything out on the racetrack and it is 10x more fun than the hills. Dont believe me? Come try.

WOOPS i'v left this thread to die sorry folks, follow me on FB to follow the latest news: https://www.facebook.com/Calw36
Thanks for checking out the Option1Garage / Signature Performance Outlaws class Sil80 Racecar buildup / history thread.
2012 QRDC Sports and Sedans Outright Champion
Thanks so much to everyone that has helped me throughout the year - massive appreciation for the whole weekends given by my awesome pitcrew Pete, Nick and Dad. Support from Paul and the boys at Option 1 Garage / Full Lock Motorsport has been a massive help this year making problems that would have been a big deal previously seem like a piece of cake to resolve, and linking me up with Mca Suspension, gktech.com.au and Koya Wheels throughout the year has helped improve the car to be ultra fast and ultra reliable, just a dream to drive. Also Marty and Mich from STZ for the brilliant lightweight cage
Definitely pumped for more intense, clean, close racing with the Outlaws Sports & Sedans Racing Queensland in 2013
Click here for most recent news
+
Outlaws Sports and Sedans on Facebook
^pic thanks to Fifotos Motorsport Photography
New Lakeside Silvia Lap Record - 54.65 - June 2014
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NkOx29323M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zguMfAqltFA
www.driverdb.com/drivers/callum-whatmore
Current best laps:
Lakeside: 55.66 on Hankook Z214 275
QLD Raceway Clubman: 59.50 on Hoosier R6 275
QLD Raceway National: 1:18.71 on Hankook Z214 275
Morgan Park K: 1:23.9 on Hankook Z214 275
Norwell: 61.80 on FZ201 255 no aero
Thought id finally do a writeup on my moneypit of satisfaction
- Nov 2006
Looking like this when i first bought it. First proper car after driving the bongo van (liteace) around for 3 years after getting my license.
FEEL THE ADRENALIN
Son after added racing logic coilovers... car looked good like this :]
Went to some dyno day and it put out 160kw apparently (unsure of how accurate the dyno was) at 12psi
- June 2007
QR sprint - First trackday experience, going 67.53 in pretty much standard form on street rubber.
- Nov 2007
QR sprint - Improved to 66.07 after adding fmic and exhaust, on street rubber.
Quickest lap set with exhaust gasket gone, it farted hot exhaust and melted my loom and i was lucky to be able to drive home. improv heat shield.
F'ed around for all of 2008. had a crack at drifting, which i sucked at, and did some boring drag. best of 13.9sec quarter
added big brakes up front. smacked a gutter being stoopid which led me to get some new wheels.
- Jan/Feb 2009
Finally got back to the track in 09, couldnt match my pb in 2 attempts hmm. I guess it was summer, hot. + QR had rivers across the dippers on one of the days. rage.
- June 2009
put some KU36 tyres on the car and then found out about lakeside. what a track! i was hooked.
best of 65.43 on my first day there, june 09.
LS - improved to 63.89 on my next outing.
- July 2009
Decided to spend some money on trying to make some power,
Got a cheap t28 (thanks Matt B!), s15 injectors and a nistune. Tuned by EFI performance yatala to make 174kw.
improved to 63.00 but was hitting the speed limiter by the kink. EFI kindly removed the limiter when i took it back to them
- Sep/Oct 2009
LS - Improved to a 62.42 without the limiter
LS - Then 62.22 after removing a bit of weight, eg rear seats.
QR sprint - 61.57
- Feb 2010
Car was overheating quite badly after 2 or 3 laps getting up it. added oil cooler, air panel, bigger radiator, problem persisted...
Frustrating to have to back off and let it cool in the middle of a session.
Noticed Harry's sil80 owning it up, being the only sil to get under the magic minute at lakeside
so the opportunity came up with michael from here on NS to swap front ends. tore into it one saturday and did the swap.
- March 2010
got a pair of springs from dennis at racing logic - legend
which softened the car from 9/7 to 7/5 kg. bolt in half cage installed.
LS - new PB of 62.14
- May 2010
KU36's finally shagged after 10 trackdays and 14,000 kays. Excellent value for money.
Got some federal RSR's to replace them.
LS - improved to 61.11 thanks to the softer rubber.
- June 2010
car has always had a major achilles heal of the sloppy viscous diff, causing the inside wheel to spin up and cost a lot of time.
Diffs were very expensive, so i was lucky to find a bargain on boostcruising for a 1.5way r180 with a 4.3 ratio (vs 4.11 of the original)
Also installed a surge tank which solved the long time drama of having to run with at least half a tank of fuel to prevent starvation.
have since added alfoil wrapping to the lines to try and reduce the fuel smell stinking me out.
QR sprint - 59.67
- July 2010
Got a bit excited after seeing pics of THIS car.
A mate had a rear wing lying around under his house, so i grabbed it off him. Then went to bunnings and bought some plywood and other gear. fabbed up the front splitter + air dam and drilled holes in the rear hatch for the wing.
LS - 59.91 finally cracked the minute. feels a bit like cheating with the aero bits. huge difference in high speed grip.
- Aug 2010
Front tyres getting chewed due to inadequete camber. installed R33 front LCA's which have helped.
Also got the chance to test some real tyres thanks to Alan at Federal / Z car workshop. FZ201 medium compound and mega wide.
LS - 58.64 first session
- Sept 2010
LS - 58.39 jap nationals one lap shootout
- Oct 2010
found front shocks to be rooted, replacements from dennis at racing logic fitted. cheers !
Lakeside - 17/10 - 58.61 zed fest. just consistent 58's
built a box for the fuel system to try and make it a bit safer in an accident.
QR - 30/10 - 57.68 new PB
Nov 2010 - Morgan Park - 1:27.39 - class winner improved production over 3L
the office
Dec 2010 - Lakeside. Trackattack 2010 2nd overall, Winner forced induction class.
New PB of 58.34
bit of GTR chasing action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtWHgLbNDA4
2009/10 trophies
time to go racing in 2011 :]
1994 Nissan 180X RPS13
Engine=SR20DET
POWER=206rwkw @ 17PSI
TURBO= Garret 2680RS with chipped compressor wheel. got it cheap :]
AIRFLOW METER=BOSCH Z32
SUMP= justjap Large Capacity
OIL= Penrite 10w40 or similar
RADIATOR=big alloy one thanks to STZ
INJECTORS=740cc
FUEL PUMP=walbro's &--#62; bosch 044
BOOST CONTROLLER=mbc
ENGINE MANAGEMENT=nistune
INTERCOOLER=big one now cheers jarred
EXHAUST SYSTEM=3inch with cat
DRIVECHAIN lol chain
CLUTCH= Direct Clutch hi torque organic
GEARBOX= Standard 5 speed manual
DIFFERENTIAL=r180 1.5way 4.3
SUSPENSION/HANDLING/STEERING
COILOVERS=Racing Logic - ultra - 7/5kg
SWAYBARS=Whiteline 27mm Adjustable Front Swaybar, Whiteline 20mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar
SUSPENSION ARMS=r33 front lcas, GKTech Caster, Toe, Camber
Brakes
CALIPERS=r33 all round
PADS=Ferodo ds2500 &--#62; Hawk DTC 60
FLUID=Castrol super dot 4 &--#62; penrite sin
BM57 master cyl + braided lines
Wheels/Tyre
street= a-tech 17x8,9
track= koya 17x9,10 245/275 slicks
Interior
STEERING WHEEL= omp copy suede
SEATING=Bride copy fixed back, 6pt harness
GAUGES=ecutalk display, oil temp, knock warning
no bov, standard airbox, still has aircon and radio comes out :]
weighs 1190kg with half a tank of fuel and no driver
INSPIRATIONS:
Harry being the first ever silvia in the 59's at lakeside back in '09 - we all thought he was nuts after seeing this vid - the whole 'treat lakeside with respect', '9-tenths maximum' mantra that everyone spouted went out the window, heres Harry hanging it out at bridge + the last corner... very intimidating bits of track.. without raising a sweat. Another lesson learned, the importance of learning car control without aero influence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNw2Z6u7sI
+ build thread
240sxTTC's aero bits
Sasha is really the mac daddy pioneer of silvia racing... winning the mixed canadian touring car series back in 2007.. bowdown:
Massive 53 page build thread
Paul's record-holding S14 - untouched record around Lakeside (until myself and Sam finally pipped it 3 years later)