|Magageni

Brief summary of venue

WE NO LONGER HAVE ACCESS TO MAGAGENI. Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment upstream from Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120 metres and the rock quality is mostly excellent.

Permit/ permission info

Magageni is private property; permission must be obtained from the owner and rules strictly adhered to. At present (start 2012) access has been jeopardized, though we hope to re-establish access again.

Approximate travelling time from Johannesburg

Two hours.

Parking information

On designating camping site.

Info on walk in

The walk from the campsite to the start of the routes takes 20-30 minutes, and follows a dirt track to the base of the cliffs.Do not drive down this road as you will not be able to get back up again!

Accommodation

Car camping - the campsite is under the trees on top of the cliffs and has no facilities.

Availability of water for drinking

Water is unreliable at the camp site and should be brought in. There is good water at the bottom of the cliff though.

Climbing route guide

Scanned version available from Ulrike Kiefer, otherwise online on www.climb.co.za/wiki/index.php/Magageni

Climbing information

Currently the area has over 30 recorded routes from grade 13 to 20; there’s good potential for new routes. The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base. The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150 metres high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough. The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60 metres high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excellent routes. The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing.

Child friendly

The owner does not want small children to visit at present.

Swimming

Yes, there’s a big pool at the bottom of the crag.

Camp fires

Allowed, bring own wood.

Other attractions

Pristine flora and some game has been introduced, there’s also a big pool and waterfall; hiking is possible on the property as well as following the stream towards Loskop Dam.

To all Mountain club members in Gauteng - please note that due to some attempted access to our properties during lockdown we would like to reiterate that access is suspended until relevant lockdown regulations deem it legal. Currently, we suspect that this will only be in level 2 or 1 as both inter-provincial travels is required (Magaliesberg is largely in the North-West) and, more critically, hiking and climbing are not considered essential activities.