This is something that you can do if you have confidence in the pattern used (and the pattern doesn’t include SAs, like BurdaStyle or Patrones patterns) or when the pattern is so simple and or loose fitting that we can assume that it won’t need tweaking to fit properly. After tracing the pattern on paper, just add the necessary seam allowances and hem allowances. You can use a compass to trace the outlines, it’s pretty easy and it saves some time.I’m using a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat, which are good investments if you sew a lot. I don’t use this method for every fabric but it’s perfect for the cotton pique. The rotary cutter also prevents joint lesions caused by the repetitive usage of scissors. The patterns can be hold in place by some weights or they can be pinned; this last case requires some practice avoiding fabric distortion; first set the upper and lower extremes of the pattern and then both sides, using one pin for each end; then pin around the piece, more or less 4 inches apart. If the extremes are secured first, with the fabric and pattern flat, the distortion will be minimized when pinning around the paper pattern.Don’t forget to save some scraps because you’ll need them for testing the machine stitches, the interfacings and for making the bound buttonholes.OK, the fabric is cut and next I will cut and fuse the interfacings and reinforcements (testing on scraps first), thread trace the relevant markings (notches, darts, etc.), prepare the pattern for cutting the lining and cut the lining. Speaking of the lining, I tested the printed fabric against the white pique and there seems to be some see through. I might have to change my plan once again… See you next time!

You must already know that this month the Portuguese Burda Style was released… I salute and cherish this initiative because I think that it will enable the Portuguese speaking community all over the world to get access to a multitude of sewing info in their native speaking language, thus spreading the scope of the sewing art knowledge.The editors of the Portuguese Burda Style contacted me a few months ago asking for my collaboration, in terms of an article stating my early sewing path and how Burda played (and still plays) an important role in my sewing education. Here’s the article (sorry, no English translation at this point; basically I explain how a neighbor dressmaker aided me along my first steps operating a sewing machine and how her work and extensive Burda collection inspired me to start sewing my clothes): This issue features a lot of interesting patterns, here’re a few examples:I plan on making this vest soon, using some printed sequined fabric from my stash. In fact I love the entire outfit and might make the trousers too.Another model that caught my eye was these shorts; they can be made up of leather or leather-like fabric, for achieving a very trendy piece (leather shorts are a strong trend for spring this year).And, of course, there are also flowy and romantic maxi-dresses!

As for my current sewing activities, I went through some lack of sewing mojo (and lack of time too) but I plan on being back on the saddle soon. There was a change of plans concerning my current project: I decided to use another fabric for the coat and the lining and after debating a little on what fabric to use, I ended up choosing this white cotton pique and the printed satin for the lining. Now all I need is some time to get the coat done!Wishing you all a wonderful sewing week!