There are wine drinkers who enjoy La Spinetta and Sine Qua Non; I used to be that guy. But for wine lovers just beginning a collection, I would offer advice that I wish someone had offered me years ago.

When you put a lot of great vineyards making expensive wines in a tiny hilltop region, some conflict will inevitably result — especially when the wine is a long-aged red wine that has been chronicled for over 450 years.