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fill clutch master cylinder. there should be a slave cylinder at top of trans case. bleeder on slave cylinder. crack bleeder with clutch applied. (pump up and hold). do same thing until stright fluid comes out of bleeder.. clutch should be solid after this operation.

Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.

If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.

If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.

In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.

1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.

2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.

Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.

Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).

Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.

Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).

FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.

ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.

Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.

NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.

LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO DISENGAGE THE ADJUSTING MECHANISM.THIS MUST BE DONE DURING CABLE INSTALLATION AS FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SELF ADJUSTER MECHANISM.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE DASH PANEL AND THE DASH PANEL GROMMET.( WARNING ) BESURE THE CLUTCH CABLE IS ROUTED UNDER THE BRAKE LINES AND NOT TRAPPED AT THE SPRING TOWER BY THE BRAKE LINES IF EQUIPPED WITH POWER STEERING ROUTE THE CABLE INBOARD OF THE POWER STEERING HOSE.PUSH THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR ON THE STOP BRACKET AND THROUGH THE RECESS BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND THE GEAR QUADRANT.LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO RELEASE THE PAWL ROTATE THE GEAR QUADRANT FORWARD AND HOOK THE CABLE INTO THE GEAR QUADRANT.INSTALL THE CLUTCH SHIELD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET.ON THE TEMPO OR TOPAZ INSTALL THE PANEL ABOVE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.USING A PIECE OF WIRE CORD OR TAPE SECURE THE PEDAL IN THE UPMOST POSITION.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR AND CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE DEVICE USED TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE PEDAL AGAINST ITS STOP.ADJUST THE CLUTCH BY DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES.INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER.

the self adjust mechanism is made up of two pieces a pawl and ratchet.
removing them is more awkward than difficult.
you need to remove the clutch pedal by knocking out the pivot shaft that also supports the brake pedal just knock it out far enough to remove the clutch pedal after removing the clip.
when the pedal is out you will see how it is assembled.
the hardest part of the job is replacing the spring which is attached to the pedal this must be hooked back into the pedal last i find a strong piece
of wire threaded through the hole in the pedal does the trick
this is a job for someone who has some experience good luck

nipple on top of pedal to release mechanism their is alan key head behind pedal just unwind it the with pedal down drop new cable nipple into the slot thingy.this model doesnt take long compared with old plastic auto adjust type .look at it and you will soon sus it out a 10 min job