Going to turn our 55 gallon into a fish tank. Put some hardy fish in there that the kids will enjoy. My youngest just "ADORES" fish.

I found a 50 gallon tall acrylic tank that I want to get. Pricing everything out now. Then going to buy it piece by piece. My husband said I could just go buy everything, but knowing me. I will buy it and decide it's not really what I wanted.

Totally acceptable, however, I shun acrylic tanks. Only because they are so delicate to abrasion and cleaners of any kind. As a fish-tank though, you only have to worry about the outside getting scratches.

With kids, I might purchase an acrylic aquarium also. Only because glass and kids don't mix well.

(Removed the, possibly misleading, isolated incident that occurred with our family, at a members request. Due to its graphic nature.)

Finally, I finished the fogger housing. With a little tweaking, it will be perfect. Well, good enough to please my tank.

Here is a rough setup. My drawings may be hard to follow, but I still can't get my sister to return my camera.

Here are the details...(A) Micro PC CPU fan {Radio-Shack} $10.00
- Pushes fresh arid air in and humid fog out. I made this with an adjustable height, allowing control over fog delivery speed.
(B) Fresh air slot in divider wall.
- Keeps incoming air on top, flowing to bottom.
(C) Thermos style sipping cup {Target / Rubbermaid} $4.00 each X2
- Holds extra water, delivering it only when water levels drop.
- - - (C - 1) shows where the water exits when the water level drops enough to let air into the container.
- - - (C - 2) shows where air gets in when the water level drops below this hole.
- - - {NOTE} This container comes this way, and it works similar to a gerbil bottle, with the bearing taken out, or like a water cooler bottle.
(D) Acrylic divider wall {Home Depo} $11.00 (also used for H)
- This wall has multiple purposes...
. - Keeps steady flow of air from top to bottom.
. - Lets water flow under for fogger chamber refilling.
. - Stops water turbulence that would interfere with chamber refilling.
. - Stops water from splattering on fan.
. - Holds fogger mount in place.
. - Holds bottle harness (Not shown) in place, holding bottles in place.
(E) Water slot.
- Lets water from bottles drain into fogger chamber.
(F) Delivery hose, fog exit.
- Hose protrudes down as far as possible to deliver thick dense fog.
(G) Fogger unit. {Pet-Co / Exo-Terra} $30.00
- This is the unit that creates fog. Mounting is done by picture hanging wire, wrapped twice around body, and one around the water level sensor.
(H) Acrylic fogger stand.
- This also has multiple purposes.
. - Design keeps a circular water flow that limits bubbles and splatter.
. - Design creates a stream that is three to four times longer than standard up-right position. (See I)
. - Design limits bubbles that would normally pass under water slot in wall.
. - Design allows better cooling of unit during operation. (These units get hot.)
. - Design interlocks between wall and bucket.
. - Design keeps water jet away from exit hose.
(I) Water jet stream.
- The angle that the fogger is held at produces a long stream. This gives almost four times more fog than the standard orientation. Which allows for larger tanks to be filled quickly and efficiently. (Fog standing time is only a couple of seconds... Slow filling translates into limited travel range.)

the air inside the tank is warmer, due to decaying soil and plant energy, heaters... etc. There is also a high humidity associated with he stagnant air. This warmer air settles on the cooler glass, being cooled by moving air outside the tank. This condensation effect is similar to the way water settles on the outside of a glass full of ice on a hot summer day.

You don't need a strong temperature separation, any temperature separation will form condensation. The greater the separation, the more rapidly the condensation will form, and the longer it will stay there.

You will also notice that the plants will get saturated rather fast, while the glass takes longer to become wet. This is because the glass, even though it is a poor insulator, is a better insulator than the thin walled plant leaves. As the fogger runs longer, the water becomes more of a steam. The unit heats up, heating the fog, which makes it settle even faster on the cooler leaves/plants.

Sorry to reignite an old thread and I know that the offensive (in my opinion) party has probably already left but I thought I'd just put in my two cents.
Here goes:
peterryan2001, this IS an issue of facts, but it's also an issue of honesty, manners and support. All Zurp did was share the information that was, to the best of his knowledge, correct, so as to help those who were without much information on the matter. You could have responded politely, kindly contradicting him with information that was, you thought, correct. But no, you were uncivil and even blatantly rude in your replies ( eg: "Zurp, learn to read." ) and therefore you have put a damper on this conversations and confused the people who had the questions in the first place. If Zurp messed up, he gave it his best anyway.
There you go, sorry but I just had to say that. By the way Zurp, groovy illustrations.

If they went into all the details on how this works and possible dangers, there is a possibility that you wouldn't buy it. When consumers read that a device may cause harm, illness or death, it is hard to convince them that a product is safe, and they would not end up purchasing it.

Perry may have been banned? Not sure... (Not by my request) I hope that he just took the kind advice of others, "If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all", I would hate to think that some-one with that much useful knowledge would stop participating in such a helpful forum. (I didn't take offense, however I would rather he handled his situations in a more neutral manor.)

After all, I learned a lot from him, by the way he challenged me, as I stated before. That gave me the time to reflect and learn. I would rather live knowing the best, or most true answer, than live with a, "Half Truth", as he put it!

I think water condenses on the side of your fish tank because of dew point temperatures. When humidity is present in the air at a specific temperature (as in the water evaporated from your fish tank water), the dew point is dependent on how much water is suspended in the air as humidity. When the humid air comes in contact with cooler glass (the fish tank glass is almost always a little cooler where there is no water in contact with it) and condenses. Also, when air reaches saturation (the most humidity the air can hold at a given temperature), the water precipitates out, and condenses on the glass of your fish tank. So, Zurp is right: It is the same basic concept as the water condensing on the side of your glass full of ice on a hot summer day. Since the glass is quite a bit cooler than the air, it is also quite a bit cooler than dew point temperature, and causes humidity to precipitate out as liquid water when the surface is below the dew point temperature for the given humidity level.

Banned? No. Arguing over the internet is a waste of time. Take what you read with a grain of salt.....

take a cheapo humidifier ornament, i have one its a big bowl with one of these inside, it does not draw a gallon of water a day the smoke DOES NOT BURN this is false because ive tried it. thats the only thing i will say i complety disagree with

I want to build my own humidifier, and I want the transducer and its driving circuit in separating module.
Do anyone know circuit/schematic (Ultrasonic Oscillators) for driving ultrasonic transducer or the piezoceramic part in humidifier system?

A simple 555 timer should be able to be used to drive a low power pizoelement.

However, these are not standard pizoelements... I asume that you found a place that sells replacement pizoelements. The circutry of the 555 timer uses a relay and a capacitor to trigger an endless loop with a fixed delay, allowing a specific frequency to be achieved. There are several sites that have 555 timer calculators to help you get the frequency that you want. Most timers can drive small devices directly, others may need an additional transistor to boost the power to the pizoelement.

If this sounds complicated to you... then buy a full setup. I don't want you getting zapped. The circuit isn't the expensive part of the fogger, it is the metal case, powersupply, and the novelty. In reality, these things only cost about $15.00, if they have a good powersupply. Most do not, and you get a cheap powersupply that burns out after 30 days.

The terra foggers that I have, have giant power supplys that get real warm, and will last for years. They are also as large as a computer power supply, which tells me that they are real inefficient power supplys, the more heat a power supply gives off, the more power that is wasted. However, a small wall blister power supply will fry quite quickly.

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