My sewing isn't quite as good as my knitting, but lately I've been losing time wandering the aisles of the fabric store, just soaking in all the color and pattern. I've spent hours reading online tutorials and bookmarking inspirational quilt tops, and have been particularly drawn to two specific but somewhat opposite types: modern and clean designs that emphasize geometry, and humble charm quilts that have a well-worn and homespun feel.

Making room to sew a quilt is a daunting task in our tiny ranch house, so naturally I turned to yarn instead of fabric. The resulting socks are a translation of a traditional flying geese design, knit one-triangle-at-a-time by using short rows. Depending on the yarn chosen, the final result can be either graphic or scrappy, making these a versatile option for both gift-giving and stash-busting.

Recommended needle size[always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] US #1.5/2.5mm needles for working in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars

Notions Yarn
needle 2 stitch markers

GAUGE

30 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The colorwork design is worked entirely through the use of short rows. There are three distinct shapes in this pattern: Main Color Triangles, Contrast Color Triangles, and Main Color Quadrilaterals. See diagram at right.

When knitting Contrast Color Triangles, alternate between CC1 and CC2 as shown.

This pattern uses a stretchy cast on. You can use the Long Tail or Jeny's Stretchy methods:

Pick up and Purl: To pick up and purl, insert the tip of the right needle from the back (RS of fabric) towards you (the WS of the fabric); wrap the yarn as is to purl and take the new stitch back through to the RS of the fabric.

Working Floats Together with Stitches:
When knitting the Main Color Triangles and Quadrilaterals, short lengths of yarn called "floats" are created on the wrong side of the work by slipping the first stitch in each row. To keep the color changes neat and tidy, floats are picked up and worked together with the stitch above them when working Contrast Color Triangles.

Knitting a stitch together with float: Pick up the float and place it on the left hand needle, insert the right needle into both the float and stitch, and knit them together.
Purling a stitch together with float: Sl1, pick up the float with your right hand needle, then purl the slipped stitch and float together.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
When working the wraps at the turning points of the short rows together with the stitches they wrap, be sure not to twist your stitches by working as follows:

When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch, insert right needle into both wrap and stitch from bottom to top, into the wrap first and then into the stitch, and knit them together.When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on left needle, purl wrap and stitch together.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
Using MC and a stretchy cast on method CO 52[60, 68] stitches. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing round: [K2, p2] around.
Work ribbing as set for 15 rounds total.Next round: Knit.
Break yarn, leaving a tail to be woven in later.

Leg
The leg is worked in three sections. Each section is comprised of two Main Color Triangles (one on the left side of the sock, then one on the right) and two Contrast Color Triangles (one in the front and one in the back).

In the first and third sections CC1 is used for the front Contrast Color Triangle, and CC2 for the back Contrast Color Triangle. In the second section CC2 is used for the front, and CC1 for the back. This alternating pattern continues for the rest of the pattern.

First Main Color Triangle Setup: With RS facing, slip first 27[31, 35] stitches of the round to a single needle.
Turn so that WS is facing.

Size L Only:Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p33, w&t, twisting your working yarn with the tail left from the previous step, as if for intarsia. Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k31, w&t.

Size M and L:Row 3 [WS]: Sl1, p29, w&t. For size M only, twist your working yarn with the tail left from the previous step, as if for intarsia. Row 4 [RS]: Sl1, k27, w&t.

Set up for second Main Color Triangle: Reorient your needles so that the 25[29,33] unworked stitches are on your needle with RS facing. Add one stitch on each side from the previously worked stitches, so that you now have 27[31,35] stitches ready to be worked. Turn so that WS is facing.

Work as for first Triangle.

Set up for Contrast Color Triangles:
To set up for contrast triangles, your needles must be pointing in a V shape towards the center stitch of the gap you need to fill (see image at right).

With RS facing, reorient your needles so that 13[15, 17] stitches are on your right hand needle, 14[16,18] stitches are on your left hand needle, and the remaining 25[29,33] stitches are held -- on another needle or holder. The center stitch of the gap (the lowest point) should be the first stitch on your left hand needle.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all the stitches from the heel flap have been worked. RS is facing, and 11[13, 15] sts rem.

Break yarn.

GUSSET
We will continue to knit short rows throughout the gusset, so the pattern can continue uninterrupted on the instep of the sock.

Reorient your needles so that the center stitch of the contrast triangle on the instep is the first stitch on your left hand needle. Turn so that WS is facing.

Using MC:Row 1 [WS]: P12[14, 16], pick up and p14[15,17] sts along heel flap, p11[13,15] across heel sts, pick up and purl 14[15, 17] sts along heel flap, p12[14, 16], w&t. Twist your working yarn with the tail left at the beginning of the row, as if working intarsia. 64[72, 82] sts.

Continue to work Main Color Quadrilaterals and Contrast Triangles until you are anywhere between 3[3, 3.5] and 1.5[1.5, 1.75] inches away from the end of the foot, ending with a Contrast Triangle. After the final row in the Contrast Triangle, with RS facing you should be in position to work across the instep.

Using MC, sl1, then knit even until foot measures 1.5[1.5, 1.75] inches less than desired full foot length.

Final round: K26[30,36], pm, k to end of round. The marker designates the center point of the round. Rearrange your sts if desired.

FINISHING
Graft toe closed.
Block and weave in all ends. Use this opportunity to gently snug stitches to close any gaps at the triangle points, as needed.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Lacey Volk is an art-school graduate who somehow ended up working in technology. She writes and publishes patterns and other DIY projects on her blog, Volkstricken Industries, and can be found on Ravelry.

She lives Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, with her husband and their imaginary French Bulldog.