Zero Clearance Throat Plate

Well, after about a week of thinking, and about three tries at making a zero clearance throat plate, I finally got one to work. See one of the problems with all bench top, and contractor table saws are that the throat plate is always just a little piece of sheet metal that always is impossible to make a zero clearance throat plate for because of a few reasons:

1. The wood of the plate would have to be really thin, which is always a pain in the buttocks 2. The screws that attach the metal throat plate are a countersunk screw and the thin wood has nothing for the screw to grab onto.3. It’s hard to get it stabilized when it is so little.

So to fix all of these problems I realized that my table saw had these little wholes for a small rubber spacer that would keep the metal throat plate from vibrating and the screw that holds the plate down goes in between the spacer. After realizing this I thought that I could put dowels into the holes which would make the throat plate stay in place and it would give me the extra material for a countersunk hole. It took me about two hours on and off, because I had to make all the parts then when I put it together and glued it I realized that the dowels were in the wrong place and had to redo them about 3 times. They also would crack off, so I made the dowels a bit smaller so that they would just slip in and wouldn’t be so had to get out. Overall I think this was a great addition to my table saw and anyone with a contractor style saw should make one to get better cutting results. Thanks, Tyler.

Great idea ! I’ve seen ” Zero Clearance ” plates mentioned before. What are the reasons for them? Other than those little pieces falling in by the blade and scarin the crap outta me. :-)Thanks for the idea.

I know what you’re talking about Tyler. My first saw was an Hitachi and I tried several times to make an insert that would work. I think it was on my fourth attempt that it was close, but it was far from perfect.

Verne, as far as I know the main reason to use a zero clearance insert is for safety. There may be more reasons to use one but I’m pretty sure that their main purpose is to keep the small pieces from shooting back at you. I use one for straight cuts when using my Forrest II blade and really need to make a few for the different size dados I use.

Nice job Tyler, I’m glad you didn’t give up. The more I read of your posts the more impressed I am with your thought process and accomplishments. I hope you have a lot of influence of your school class mates, The older I get the more I want kids like you, to grow up and run the world.

There are multiple purposes for a ZCI, the primary one is safety. One of the other major benefits is that with a ZCI properly installed it will support the workpiece at the blades edge preventing tear out. Very useful on ply-goods and lumber that like to fuzz when cut.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

One thought on the 45 degree and cut. the wood looks thin (by design). If it flexes while you send material through the saw, this won’t matter when it is at 90 degrees, but at 45, it could catch the blade and cause a problem. I’m not saying it will. I guess it is something I’d want to consider (as someone that hasn’t ever see your insert or any other insert for that matter).

I’d have to agree with Hokie, the first thing that came to my mind was that the material looks way too thin and dangerous, if you put any downward preasure on a narrow rip cut or dado useing a push stick it’s going to flex downward and or even break. I would suggest useing thicker material, like maybe 3/8’ thick and routing out what you need to to get it flat on the table, then position your dowels in place. Contractor style saws usually allready have a thick plate like the cabinet saws do, the newer plastic jobsite saws I don’t know what they have, but I do know that the Skil benchtop on a stand that I use to own had the thin, maybe 1/8 ” thick sheet steel insert.