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This Southeast Asian chainlet’s predictable parade of noodles, curries, and stir-fries function as a quick local fix for Thai cravings in the East Village and Williamsburg, but the food falls flat due to middling ingredients and underseasoning. Décor-wise, the modern spots boast kitsch accents familiar to any Urban Outfitters shopper: nostalgic movie posters downtown and a shrine to Buddha and dangling mini disco balls in Brooklyn. Ped ma kham promises “crispy” duck, but the meat is just dry and its skin actually soggy from the dish’s sweet tamarind sauce. Green gang kheaw waan is billed as “the spiciest” curry, but there’s not much heat. The coconut-milk base comes with Thai eggplant, bamboo shoots, bell peppers, and basil leaves, but without a needed dose of fermented-shrimp paste, the broth lacks complexity, and the dish is a snoozer.
— Michael Anstendig