I’m making new drawers and raised panel doors for my sisters kitchen cabinets. The style of the edge you see in the picture above is what I have on the commercial cabinets in my house. She likes them. I’m relatively new to this. I’ve made a few raised panel doors so I know I can do it but I have never made this edge. I’m needing help on the router bit.

I need to know the type of router bit that makes this edge. I think I’ve found some online but I have the darndest time looking at the bit and visualizing the cut it will make. Also, if the wood will be 3/4 inch I’m finding that bits come in different heights or sizes. Can anyone who knows this stuff tell me a link or model number or even the contour name and size of a bit that I can google to see what will make this drawer edge on 3/4 inch oak so I can purchase the correct one the first time?

Also, the drawer front I’m looking for has a fairly smooth slope to the front edge and sweeps in at the back like in the picture above. Some I’ve seen have a steeper slope and a sharp front edge and don’t sweep in at the back.So, NOT like this edge. Thanks in advance.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

6 replies so far

If the router bit were mounted in a table, your drawer-front would be face down.

Something that works for me when I’m trying to visualize the cut a bit will make: instead of looking at the bit, try to look at the white space next to the bit, and imagine that the white is your wood.

Just google ‘door lip’. You will find your profile. The bit you want will have to be done on a table since there is no guilde bushing. I do mine like your bottom pic because my bit has a guide bushing allowing me complete the door lip using a hand held router and guide bushing following the wood. This has worked for me well because some wood will have a gentle ‘cup’ that is barely noticeable by your eye until you try to run a door lip edge on a table and have a hard time pushing the door hard enough downward in order to get a consistent cut throughout all sides. If a door has a slight cup or bend that you do not notice, then you will when you get to the router table at the end of the process.

Using a hand held router doing this allows the router to follow the bend in the wood if there is any and allows for a nice consistent cut that looks real nice. If a customer wants the look of your top pic I would opt to still use hand held router and run a back cut on the door with a 15 degree chamfer cut and guide bearing, then I would go through and use a ROS to blend the front and back cuts together. May not sound the most efficient but it seems to give the best results which is my top priority. I first look to give quality, then secondly I look to work as quick/efficiently as possible.

Thanks Pete Looks like your link led to a bit that will do the trick, I think.

And Flyforfun, The bit you showed me isn’t the one but another on that page is. It has a sharp edge on the top but it tapers in at the back like I want. I can always ease the edge with a little sandpaper.

I think that’s got it guys. Thanks a bunch for the help

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

flyforfun was saying that you would need to use a router table for this bit because it has no guide bearing, but a hand-held router is better for following any irregular surfaces. An option would be to put a small fence on the baseplate of your handheld router.

I, on the other hand, am looking to make some false drawer fronts to match those else where in my kitchen and need a bit that is more like the profile in the second picture that was originally posted. I found a Whiteside Ogee Bit (Part #3222), which is similar, but doesn’t seem to have the same slope where the two radii meet—it’s more flat there. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!