Beauty Chat: Anna Phillips on Lash Extensions

Beauty services now approach Sharpie levels of permanence and are sure to evolve more in that direction in the coming years. Like gel manicures and Brazilian keratin treatments, eyelash extensions are increasing exponentially in popularity. The value proposition of leasing out your eyelid real estate to extensions is vast: You'll awaken to a thicker, denser, blacker gaze à la Betty Boop. But there's much to know before going under the glue, so we pumped The Lash Lounge proprietor and technician Anna Phillips to glean her tips on lash extensions. From the history of the drag-queen staple to how to prep and maintain a gaze that can be seen from space, here's Phillips's advice on getting a full fringe.

ELLE: Talk to us about the history of lash extensions. How did they become so popular?

Anna Phillips: Lash extensions were created by movie director D.W. Griffith in 1916. He wanted the leading ladies to have lashes that grazed the cheeks when she closed her eyes. The first strip lashes were created from human hair and gauze, and we've come a long way since then. The popularity of extensions is a result of how it provides women with a long-term alternative to wearing eye makeup. It's all about low-maintenance beauty for women day to day.

ELLE: What are the benefits of semi-permanent lashes versus a one-time application?

AP: One-time applications are known as clusters and are done with temporary lash glue. The semi-permanent ones are attached one hair at a time to each of your natural lashes. There's not a lot of hair-pulling when you apply them and they garner minimal reactions. You can wear them as long as you'd like, provided you maintain them. You can go natural or dramatic based on your desire. You can work out with them, swim, or shower and they won't fall off.

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ELLE: Who is a good candidate for lash extensions?

AP: Anyone who has a hair to which a lash can be attached. We do have cancer patients who come in with sparse lashes, and we let them know up front it's going to accentuate the sparseness. That said, the lashes you have will look thicker and dark black. Most of the time these women go through with the service. That's the only downfall, if you don't have hairs, you have to start growing them.

ELLE: What is the lash-extension process like?

AP: We get an idea of what clients are looking for; the design they want to have. The clients will lie on a table similar to a facial table. We tape the bottom lashes down with a medical-grade tape or an anti-wrinkle gel pad. They close their eyes. We isolate one hair with tweezers and pick up an individual lash extension, run it through the glue, and then attach it to a natural lash. It takes about five seconds for the glue to dry, and then it's on to the next lash. It takes 50+ lashes per eye for a basic set. A full set takes about an hour and a half. Refills can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. The lashes last as long as you want to keep them up. If you have a full set on and never get a refill, after two months you might have one extension left. I recommend getting refills every two to three weeks to keep them up.

ELLE: Is there more than one type of lash look from which we can choose?

AP: The most prominent is a natural look that follows the shape of the lash line. We typically use at least three different lengths of lashes on everyone's lids so we can do the inner eye and the outer edges. Cat-eye/flare-shaped lashes look great on those with heart-shaped faces: Think Victoria Beckham, Reese Witherspoon, or Charlize Theron. Natural lashes look great on someone with more chiseled features, a more square face like Angelina Jolie or Sarah Jessica Parker. It softens the face a bit.

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ELLE: Are there any dangers to look out for when it comes to extensions?

AP: Just bad application—your technician applies extensions to more than one hair. Reactions to application or the glue is the second thing to watch out for, but that is fairly rare.

ELLE: Any tips to ease into lash extensions if you're not ready to go the distance—literally and figuratively?

AP: Try some natural-looking lash strips on. Ardell makes inexpensive ones to try and see if you like them on yourself first. Occasionally, people come in and they freak out, which always surprises me because I think it looks so good, but it's not for everyone. Sometimes people ask me to trim them, which breaks my heart after all of that work! You can also do a demi style (the outer edges) but make sure your technician is tapering them really well to your natural lash line. There should be no tufts of hair sticking out on the outside. You can start with a very basic full set. You can go very close to your natural lash length and just build thickness and a darker hue. I always tell my clients you're not married to these. You can change up the length, the design, whatever you'd like to do, whatever you're comfortable with.

ELLE: How can we best maintain our lashes in between touch-ups?

AP: The lashes are made to provide you with a low-maintenance routine, so the less you mess with them, the longer they'll last. They're very durable. Stay away from oil-based makeup removers and makeup products or constant rubbing. If you take off your makeup by rubbing your lashes vigorously, use your fingertips or a Q-tip to protect them between visits. Most women use them as an alternative to mascara, but if you want to apply one, we recommend using a water-based formula, one that dissolves when water hits it.

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ELLE: Which makeup removers do you recommend?

AP: Anything oil-free—Almay has a great one. Run it across a clean mascara wand, and then brush that through your lashes. Then rinse off your mascara wand thoroughly, before running it through again to remove the remover. This is great to do in the shower.

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