Chawanmushi at Sushi Azabu

Secret sushi den with a comfy cold-weather dish

Ever wonder what the Japanese in the snowy Hokkaido region do to stay warm? They take their sake hot. And there is ramen. But there’s also chawanmushi, a comforting, piping hot, steamed egg custard. At Sushi Azabu, the dish is served in a ceramic tea cup, cozy and delicious and dotted with chicken, mushroom and gingko nut ($8). It’s like a dense, soothing chicken soup for the Japanese soul.

Chawanmushi at Sushi Azabu

Hidden under Tribeca’sGreenwich Grill, Sushi Azabu is an intimate, well-kept secret, frequented by in-the-know lovers of Japanese cuisine. There’s always an array of specialty fish, from golden-eye snapper to pencil fish, along with top-quality sushi standbys such as tuna, salmon and yellowtail. The restaurant claims that 80 percent of the fish is imported from Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market, four times a week. The best part: It’s a relative bargain compared to many of its peers, with set menus such as the “Koi Course,” a starter, 10 pieces of nigiri and miso soup for $35.