Review on The Glenmorangie House

'We have banished the word "hotel" from our vocabulary,' say the incumbents of this self-styled 'Highland Home'. It's a remarkable venue that combines a converted 300-year-old farmhouse, parts of an eighteenth-century castle, extensive grounds, two walled gardens and even its own beach.

The whole set-up belongs to the world-famous Glenmorangie Distillery, and the atmosphere is rather like a country house party, with guests on first-name terms. Everyone congregates in the imposing communal dining room, where gilt-framed portraits and oriental rugs provide the backdrop to easy-going, leisurely dinners.

Menus are changed each day and they run to four courses. Fish generally opens the show (perhaps seared sea bream with basil aïoli and a veal reduction) before a soup (cock-a-leekie or seafood minestrone). The centrepiece might be breast of female duck with wilted spinach, poached pear and port sauce, ahead of banana tarte Tatin or Scottish cheeses. Coffee and fudge bring the curtain down.