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So here's one I did this morning with a Tojiro ITK petty that I had removed the kuro-uchi finish and polished to about 2000. This was 3 trips through the bath, rinsing and cleaning after each with some 0000 steel wool.

I saw another video that added a few drops of dishwashing liquid to reduce surface tension, may try that on the next one, but not sure how it will do with boiling vinegar........

That is really cool! Why did the table of the blade near the spine etch to match the blade road? Was it finished differently?

Eamon,

Nothing different about the areas, all done the same. It really looked weird before I buffed off the black, quite the contrasting colors........ You'll have to tell me why it did that, I don't know. Is that where it's folded over itself? Maybe the HT makes that thicker area different?

is 'etching' a functional patina? as in does it work to reduce reactivity? i ask because i am seeking the best way to patina for maximum blade protection. i dont care how it looks.

I acid etched my Konusuke Fujiyama yanagiba and the white #1 doesnt react at all now. The blade is definitely duller with a blue hue to it, but I can cut through citrus or any of the lilies and it never reacts. I noticed it doesnt really rust anymore either. I had a really busy night on the line and left a it of water on it without realizing. As soon as I realized what I did, I dreaded the rust that I knew was going to be there. But there was no rust, I just wiped it down, dried it off and it looked the same as before.