SparkFun Electronics Commentsurn:uuid:214d0e4e-f1b1-d287-ce26-ac5b4c9f82492019-09-15T02:29:26-06:00SparkFun ElectronicsCustomer #1505842 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #1505842urn:uuid:8e95738a-afcf-dab0-9cf8-dc371f01cea82019-03-02T00:11:18-07:00<p>I usually supply unregulated power to the boards, but I connected it to the raw pin. <a href="http://www.remediinaturiste.net/tratamente-naturiste" rel="nofollow"></a></p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:a59f5200-79cc-0a70-1ca9-552c62fb7ff22018-12-17T13:30:46-07:00<p>Since both the Pro Mini and the Uno/Redboard use the ATMega328 the pin usage is the same. While the Redboard does bring out the ISP header those pins just go to D11-D13 (but on a Lenardo for example they would go to different pins, making that port consistent). In other words since D11-D13 are the SPI pins on the ATMega328, those are the correct pins for the Uno/Redboard as well as the Pro Mini, and so should "just work".</p>
Customer #194186 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #194186urn:uuid:31620cc9-3435-61af-c166-02805ebdcc792018-12-14T18:19:55-07:00<p>As I understand it the D11 to D13 pins also serve as MOSI, MISO, and SCK for SPI, unlike say the Uno or RedBoard which have a dedicated SPI header. Is any hardware or software reconfiguration required for SPI on the Pro Mini or do the SPI functions "just work"?</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:2d4ecfc5-d146-bba0-776a-61915880f4192017-06-19T10:55:29-06:00<p>Yep, it is an ATMega328 so it has all the same pin functions as an Uno (with the addition of A6 and A7). The 6 PWM pins are circled on the board (thin white line around the pin hole).</p>
rickburgen on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzrickburgenurn:uuid:952f344a-2f91-b830-6c85-fcd3c6ff7e2c2017-06-16T19:02:34-06:00<p>Any chance this has any PWM pins?<p>Edit: found the answer at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini</p></p>
Customer #892898 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #892898urn:uuid:7a320f98-e934-e7ca-b9bf-79776bd42b902017-01-20T13:35:36-07:00<p>Not sure if anyone has brought this up already.....is there an Ultiboard/Multisim footprint for this somewhere?</p>
CF on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCFurn:uuid:42176f5a-e31f-9b9c-7b76-050114b0cdfb2016-10-03T06:53:14-06:00<p>There are no pads to solder a barrel jack directly to on this board, but you could connect one with wire to the RAW and GND pins. Check the <a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-the-arduino-pro-mini-33v#powering" rel="nofollow">hookup guide</a> for more details.</p>
JPmAn on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzJPmAnurn:uuid:fcf88a46-7884-7fb2-fe65-e2f89d2cd7262016-10-01T20:14:49-06:00<p>Just to ask, how do I connect an external power source (Barrel Jack) to this board?</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:fffa7653-9236-1c4a-a3c6-fbe1afae6d6a2016-05-24T15:32:54-06:00<p>That should work fine. The Pro Mini will only be running at 3.3V which for 16MHz is technically out of spec, but does tend to work.</p>
entomophile on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzentomophileurn:uuid:9815869a-8abb-2c31-afc8-7111b08a722c2016-05-24T09:37:44-06:00<p>Can I program the 5V Pro Mini with a 3.3V FTDI cable?</p>
Customer #139243 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #139243urn:uuid:96e9c05b-f30d-27d2-ea02-e6acdf6778622016-05-18T17:33:22-06:00<p>I commend your use of a proof quarter for the scale reference photo.</p>
Ninjared on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzNinjaredurn:uuid:c7ea61aa-249f-d009-cdf0-ef30208340172016-03-29T15:51:23-06:00<p>I'm wondering if someone has an answer for this:
My sketches run a little slower on the Pro Mini than they do on the UNO, and I'm not sure why. Normally it wouldn't be a significant drop, but I'm sending and receiving A LOT of signals per second between multiple Arduinos via serial and infrared light, so even a tiny reduction in speed makes a big difference. Where the UNO performs flawlessly, I'm getting some missed signals here and there with the Pro Mini. Shouldn't the Pro Mini perform exactly the same as the UNO? Maybe it has to do with how much constant power it supplies to the ATMega? I've noticed that the 5V regulator gets VERY hot on the Pro Mini if you give it more than 8.4V, which makes sense because it's so small. Any ideas?</p>
Customer #115576 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #115576urn:uuid:e54d81ae-febb-e671-156b-addc42eef0862016-02-19T07:04:29-07:00<p>and yet you can get arduino nano with usb onboard for around five bucks shipped on ebay.</p>
Customer #743630 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #743630urn:uuid:f36dcf2d-7189-e9ed-7e28-a4e2c68311b32015-11-24T20:54:24-07:00<p>How can I hook up a transmitter or receiver to this? I&acirc;&#128;&#153;m looking for the receiver to then control one DC motor and a servo motor (making a RC car). Does anyone know a helpful thread, page or comment that I can use to educate myself on this type of stuff?</p>
Customer #134773 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #134773urn:uuid:b88f3c0f-1b19-21dc-e33d-7c8784316ffb2015-11-14T14:34:14-07:00<p>I suspect that most of the users are aware of this "trick", but someone might find it helpful so I'll mention it. This board has several "pins" that don't fit nicely on a solderless breadboard. If I need to use these, I take a M/M jumper wire (such as <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11026" rel="nofollow">PRT-11026</a> or <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8431" rel="nofollow">PRT-08431</a>, or similar from other vendors) and cut one end off (I leave an inch or so, so that I can use the remaining part in the future), and solder it to the "pins" that are in odd places (such as A4 and A5, when I need to use I2C).</p>
bboyho on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzbboyhourn:uuid:432e2f0a-d1d5-f4dc-8e72-5acc9f202e472015-06-19T13:19:01-06:00<p>Just did a stress test with the 5V Pro Mini for a customer using a blink sketch, the current draw from a 5V FTDI looks to be about 22.5mA when the LED is turned on and about 13.7mA when the LED is turned off.<p>Keep in mind that the current draw depends on what code the AVR microcontroller is running , how much power your system is pulling, and the settings for the microcontroller.</p></p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:05d4c45a-2d00-71a4-8d73-1b5e36ed04492015-04-29T16:47:51-06:00<p>Sorry about the delay. Yes this does support programming over ICSP. In fact we actually don't burn the bootloaders on these until they are assembled and do so over ICSP. If you are still having problems feel free to email techsupport@sparkfun.com</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:8a65a30e-6034-c1f0-8f7f-206295dee7002015-04-29T16:44:48-06:00<p>Sorry about the delay in responding. The auto reset should definitely work, it is possibly there is something wrong with the board or the FTDI basic board. If you are still having problems feel free to email techsupport@sparkfun.com</p>
Customer #110694 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #110694urn:uuid:2f8ac911-cfe9-31cb-0c0d-af283b0612fb2015-04-15T13:07:45-06:00<p>This board is in the movie Predestination. I couldn't believe it when i saw it.</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:c066c531-b80e-a4a6-5f61-52b7c17da5f42015-02-23T09:23:13-07:00<p>The file is actually part of the IDE. You should be able to select the board and then select Burn Bootloader to burn the bootloader onto a chip (with an AVR programmer). You can also check the boards.txt file to find the exact name of the bootloader or just browse around the bootloader folder. If you have any other questions please email techsupport@sparkfun.com and they should be able to help you.</p>
Customer #475033 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #475033urn:uuid:1bf165eb-2d1e-86d9-e3da-1dd26759602c2015-02-23T01:24:21-07:00<p>How do I get the pro mini bootloader hex file that is used to program a 328p to act as a pro mini? Can't find this file anywhere.</p>
tankgrrl on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztankgrrlurn:uuid:6cc9c89f-322a-b9b8-dd8c-cfdd61a4cacf2015-01-10T18:25:49-07:00<p>The choice of Fizzle Bombers in 1974. :) In the film Predestination, the 'timer' that the Fizzle Bomber uses is an Arduino Pro Mini (it's optically reversed in the photo attached to the purchase order).</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:e887edff-4de3-d9a8-2480-346cb9ab981c2014-12-06T11:51:25-07:00<p>Have a look at the schematic - PDF link in the description :)</p>
Customer #625649 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #625649urn:uuid:9ba5c30e-5037-cd01-0625-c0329d39fe912014-12-06T11:39:30-07:00<p>Hi, where is the green led connected(power indicator) to on the atmega328?
Thanks!</p>
jriley on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzjrileyurn:uuid:d97f1318-7b3d-d564-4ad8-ca00496d768b2014-12-01T07:39:25-07:00<p>I buy everything from Sparkfun. But I do wish you guys came up with this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/2000. Was hoping you'd have it here too, don't want to buy somewhere else!</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:d969dd0b-1e73-1c2b-59e9-91e879d0de6d2014-11-22T14:33:23-07:00<p>Well spotted! They have it hooked up on RAW and GND, so I guess it ~~doesn't~~ <em>might</em> matter which version (design consistency threw me)</p>
Bpaton on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzBpatonurn:uuid:7332bf28-e6c2-0ea1-c4cf-8ece8c72478d2014-11-22T07:24:00-07:00<p>Not sure if it is the 5V or the 3V version but the Arduino Pro appears in a recent Ethan Hawke movie, Predestination (about time travel) at around the 1 hour 18 minute mark as the "timer" parts on a bomb.</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:86f09f90-597a-d75e-b400-801d0d9ad39a2014-11-17T09:07:49-07:00<p>The ATMega32U4 does indeed have USB build in. But the Arduino Pro Mini uses the ATMega328. If you are looking for a similar boards with the ATMega32U4 then try the Pro Micro.</p>
Customer #617989 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #617989urn:uuid:7dea6f0a-0d1c-27ed-c41f-d690a74ad4532014-11-16T18:38:48-07:00<p>Doesn't the ATmega32u have on board USB 2.0? or is this a different chip? Just wondering if FTDI is really necessary; I'm looking for a good, cheap, small board that can do HID (if my understanding of the Serial/USB universe is correct)</p>
s8 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzs8urn:uuid:5c7b3064-844c-e58b-2d8c-5e3fe49399dc2014-10-24T17:14:38-06:00<p>trying to use it with the FTDI basic board, but the auto reset doesn't work. Here's the solution I've found:http://stackoverflow.com/questions/19765037/arduino-sketch-upload-issue-avrdude-stk500-recv-programmer-is-not-respondi</p>
Customer #593777 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #593777urn:uuid:b64b236c-57d8-925d-2206-aaeda70b28742014-09-27T03:00:26-06:00<p>Does this board support programming over ICSP? I setup a 6-pin ICSP header, and avrdude (in the Arduino IDE) is complaining with "avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1" when I try to program with a usbtiny. I also tried the Arduino IDE's "burn bootloader" function in hopes of setting fuses for ICSP programming, but it returns the same avrdude error.</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:1955fac6-6364-c228-bb2d-c8f0d6e696882014-08-21T10:09:20-06:00<p>No, The Pro Mini can be programmed one of 2 ways. The first is over SPI, this is how we get the bootloader on the board, the board is designed to be programmed through the bootloader, but this is always an option. The second and most common way is using the bootloader and programming over the serial line (TX,RX). In order to do this you need a board that will output serial data. The FTDI board works well for this as its a USB to serial converter. But you can't use straight USB.</p>
Skerpy_D on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSkerpy_Durn:uuid:9d745b2c-425f-bf57-b904-af402993c2002014-08-20T20:29:29-06:00<p>do you guys think that I could code this with a mini-B breakout board, your feedback would be greatly appreciated.</p>
Customer #382808 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #382808urn:uuid:0141bee5-b869-e80f-58d5-3ffeb5305ff52014-08-10T10:40:23-06:00<p>I found some dirt cheap clones on eBay for &lt;$2.50 each. This makes it reasonable to embed the full device into my projects. However I do not have an eagle component I can use out of the box.<p>Does anyone if an Eagle component has been made for this device?
If not does anyone have any advice on converting the schematic and board into component?</p><p>Thanks,
Jason</p></p>
JaredWith1R on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzJaredWith1Rurn:uuid:717dccd0-c6ba-db43-e00f-432c2ad7dc2f2014-07-17T08:56:13-06:00<p>Thanks for the reply! Specifically, I was hoping I could 2x 12-pin stack headers for the long sides of the board, then I would have to use breakaways for the I2C and short side of the board.<p>In the long run, I want to be able to solder 2 rows of female headers onto my project boards, and pop the Pro Mini in and out with ease. Almost like I want it to function like a shield atop my more permanent board. Thanks again! Looks like I may have to go with standard headers.</p></p>
Customer #340999 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #340999urn:uuid:9ddc5884-1a4d-9bef-55a3-efb779f528082014-07-16T12:19:15-06:00<p>Hi Jared,
You can solder headers onto this board to provide the functionality you need. For example, I soldered male headers onto the long sides for breadboard prototyping but because the VCC-Rx-Tx end is perpendicular it won't do for breadboarding. I just turned the breakaway male headers over and so they stick up and I use female-male jumpers.
Sparkfun has a variety of headers available, including stackable. I find the breakaway variety generally provide the most flexibility for any given project.
*edit: a link to headers! <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=stackable+headers" rel="nofollow">https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=stackable+headers</a></p>
JaredWith1R on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzJaredWith1Rurn:uuid:bcaa9d1a-3051-dcf0-c5b2-5a983387fcda2014-07-16T11:45:12-06:00<p>I would like stackable headers for this board so I could use it on a solderless breadboard, with female headers on a perf board, or standalone with male-male jumpers. Does this make sense? I am still new at this...</p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:7c3a6917-fe2e-0b32-1a3d-edbef28e33d42014-07-11T16:26:48-06:00<p>The Arduino has 3 main parts. 1)The board, which is basically an ATMega328 development board, or a board with all the components you need to get it up and running. 2)The bootloader which is what lets you upload code over serial (using something like an FTDI board) instead of using an AVR programmer over SPI. 3)The IDE environment, which is where you write, compile and upload the code. Basically the IDE is a text editor on top of AVRdude with a few extra libraries. You can write code without using the Arduino specific libraries and upload the code to the Arduino using the IDE, you can also write and compile the code using something else and use AVRdude to upload the code to the board using the Arduino bootloader. If you don't want to use the Arduino IDE, check out avrdude and the -arduino flag which tells it to talk to the Arduino bootloader.</p>
gtMultirotores on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgtMultirotoresurn:uuid:9ed4c320-3261-b84b-76a2-98b774789dca2014-07-10T22:15:43-06:00<p>Is it posible to program this with FTDI programmer and the native C of the microcontroller?, if so can anyone help me with it?</p>
wikkit on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzwikkiturn:uuid:5ab3a24f-eb67-e44e-bfea-33373b762fc92014-06-30T04:03:36-06:00<p>The voltage range on the A/D is the same as the input voltage of the board, so 0-5V for 5V boards and 0-3.3V for 3.3V boards. If you want to get advanced about it I think you could lower that range by feeding the AREF pin a different voltage, but if you need to do high end A/D then you'd be better off just hooking up an SPI A/D chip with better range or resolution.<p>That sensor should work fine as long as 10 bits (minus noise) is good enough. 700/1024=0.68, so the best resolution you will get is 0.68 kPa. Without oversampling and averaging the best you can really expect is 8-9 bits.</p></p>
tim7 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztim7urn:uuid:77b114d8-81ed-8c5f-d928-04269654a3b52014-06-29T11:05:02-06:00<p>With the regulator and LED disconnected the only component drawing power is the ATmega328. The datasheet claims it draws less than 1uA in the power-save and power-down modes, though my multimeter can't accurately measure such a tiny current. With the CPU running you can save power by setting the fuse bit CKDIV8 which reduces the clock speed. But usually it is better to leave the clock at full speed, which allows you carry out your task more quickly and spend less time outside the power-saving mode.<p>With the regulator and power LED connected I see a minimum current draw of 1mA (that's with the ATmega328 in it's power-down mode, drawing about 0.1uA).</p><p>BTW I just noticed that the pictures and schematics above have been updated to show the new design.</p></p>
Customer #211106 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #211106urn:uuid:78db6060-0243-0d14-eba0-736e396260712014-06-29T09:44:52-06:00<blockquote>
<p>current</p>
<p>Are there any other power saving modifications you have added? What current were you seeing drawn by unmodified boards? Thanks!</p></blockquote>
Customer #211106 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #211106urn:uuid:30a1de19-0525-74e0-7adf-060b6c91d21d2014-06-29T09:29:47-06:00<p>Does anyone have any data on how much current these boards draw?</p>
QCPete on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzQCPeteurn:uuid:a3ac8dba-ef7a-39f3-a960-90bc80ce98682014-06-05T13:14:18-06:00<p>Thanks for the kind words Tim. We were planning to revise this design to include proper 0603 footprints for a while. When I read your comment I thought, "hmmm... There might not be space, but I'll give it a try." I'm always up for a challenging layout :) Hope your low-power projects are going well!</p>
Icosanol on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzIcosanolurn:uuid:f0c487cb-2a74-85fd-6523-44d2ca68e9c92014-05-28T12:47:36-06:00<p>It would still be nice to have it broken out. Maybe in the next revision?</p>
tim7 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztim7urn:uuid:439f695d-9221-5549-e1f8-7f832bc475942014-05-25T15:07:01-06:00<p>I just received my Arduino Day order, and noticed that you've made exactly this modification (except that the 10uF smoothing capacitor is retained when the regulator is disconnected).<p>So, thanks Sparkfun! You're great.</p></p>
Customer #447541 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #447541urn:uuid:6c5fc850-721b-fcdd-07fb-9efab2f452c52014-05-19T08:23:52-06:00<p>Has anybody, used the 10-bit ADC channel?
I have a Freescale MPX5700DP/ Pressure Sensor, 5V, 0/700kPa, on order.
I wanted to make sure the Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHz will take a +5Vin.
What is the voltage range of the A/D input?</p>
Sembazuru on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSembazuruurn:uuid:1e6fbfa2-ad1d-02b5-9ac0-213afa8aea6b2014-05-17T23:27:20-06:00<p>I missed that sale. I had just finished my state-funded unemployment and became eligible for EUC (which has <a href="http://jobsearch.about.com/b/2014/05/12/unemployment-extension-2014.htm" rel="nofollow">still yet to be passed</a>), so I didn't have any income (disposable or otherwise). I just landed a job and will be watching for another sale...</p>
Sembazuru on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSembazuruurn:uuid:e361d4bf-cec1-916c-4426-347f126b1e5c2014-05-17T23:11:24-06:00<p>Another option would be something from Pololu. They have a range of <a href="http://www.pololu.com/category/131/step-down-voltage-regulators" rel="nofollow">step down converters</a> as well as <a href="http://www.pololu.com/category/132/step-up-voltage-regulators" rel="nofollow">step-up</a> and <a href="http://www.pololu.com/category/133/step-up-step-down-voltage-regulators" rel="nofollow">step up/step down</a> regulators. I haven't used any of them myself, but their specs look good and I've heard others recommending them.<p>Good luck with your project.</p></p>
Customer #271456 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #271456urn:uuid:ee8e6d37-ab8e-c234-c223-646e77d7eb642014-05-16T19:03:19-06:00<p>This is a great product. I ordered four boards, two FTDI Basic Breakout boards and some headers. Within ten minutes of opening the package, I had headers soldered in, the software for the FTDI board downloaded to my MAC and the "Blink" program running. It was a piece of cake.<p>After building dozens of custom ATMega328 projects and using an Arduino Uno to program those chips, this was easier, and the cost, counting the time that it takes to hand solder all the discrete components into a custom board, is probably equal to or less than the cost of these boards.</p><p>I will definitely design a few new projects using these boards.</p></p>
M-Short on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzM-Shorturn:uuid:2ebb7e6a-38a3-a0da-7c6f-44543dd1b19e2014-05-12T09:23:26-06:00<p>Not likely. The error is Programmer not responding meaning the computer can't talk to the FTDI board for some reason. This is completely independent of the Pro Mini. Double check that the drivers are installed and the FTDI board is showing up correctly in Device Manager. If you still have problems email techsupport@sparkfun.com</p>
Customer #475978 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #475978urn:uuid:2b8c97cb-ddf9-cdf2-9aa5-1bfac4ba90362014-05-02T11:07:33-06:00<p>It was in stock for 30 seconds! What the heck???</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:5968a48d-21aa-9cf1-75c6-f38d4c2325962014-04-30T15:47:00-06:00<p>What you want is a DCDC converter, which can regulate large voltage differences much more efficiently than the linear converters built into the boards. We're working on some new breakout boards for that purpose, but in the meantime, <a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/1065" rel="nofollow">this product from our friends at Adafruit</a> is a bit overkill, but will do what you need.</p>
Customer #211106 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #211106urn:uuid:0c1f2389-3ff3-b8e8-47f4-ec846219530a2014-04-30T10:02:45-06:00<p>Any suggestions for an alternative regulator that would allow using a higher input voltage (24 VDC)?</p>
Customer #533733 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #533733urn:uuid:a5d64177-edde-e3b0-661b-e48496bc9c1e2014-04-19T23:34:26-06:00<p>I just got one of these, and I can't upload anything. I get "programmer not responding". I've installed the latest FTDI USB drivers, and uploading works with another Pro Mini (from a Protosnap). Could the bootloader be corrupted?</p>
w1tgf on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzw1tgfurn:uuid:e3a576d1-22d2-112a-92ec-834010aebc552014-04-15T11:25:40-06:00<p>Do you know when you are going to have more of these available?</p>
WemblyTinkerer on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzWemblyTinkererurn:uuid:d4e25c27-9ce4-0733-05b6-8f07a41cb80f2014-04-14T17:45:18-06:00<p>I have grown to appreciate this little board for its size and capacity. The ability to strap on sensors and then I2C them back for post processing or data collection is making my current and planned projects more economical and tractable. Nice one Sparkfun!</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:5a9582e2-0c91-826d-e813-40b9bac4f3902014-04-11T01:02:16-06:00<p>Since many people just solder wires to the connections, they don't need to get pins. Adding pins to the package would add to the cost. If you need pins, you could use <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/116" rel="nofollow">these</a>.</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:984b1d83-2d32-9d3b-2e49-5d82ceb377652014-04-11T00:47:57-06:00<p>You can use those pins as GPIO when your sketch is running so long as you recognize that they will be set up as serial I/O during the initial bootloader period after reset. That means the TXO pin will be set up as an output with a high value by default, and the RXI pin will be in input mode with the internal 20-50K ohm pull-up resistor connected. If your projects use of the RXI pin causes it to change from the high state during the bootloader period, the bootloader will likely interpret that as a command from a programmer and attempt to interpret it. An unfortunate sequence of state changes on the RXI pin could keep the Pro-Mini in bootloader mode and your sketch would not run.</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:15d2965f-bef2-1bc2-da93-33af8bb6bd8d2014-04-11T00:27:15-06:00<p>The internal pull-up 20-50K ohm resistors in the Atmega 328 microprocessor can be used if you have very short lines with very low capacitance and use a low bit rate. However, typically you will need a smaller resistance value to get good operability. I typically use 3.3K ohms, and if you use the 0603 size surface mount resistors, they can be soldered to the available pads on the back of the Pro-Mini. The Pro-Mini doesn't come with those resistors by default because the pins can also be used for analog input and in that case, you wouldn't want to have the pull-up resistors.</p>
Customer #255632 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #255632urn:uuid:aa650706-4a92-82d9-d5b1-6499230dbeab2014-04-11T00:15:20-06:00<p>Thanks for the reply, I figured it out. The LED strip I was running was being powered from the board, so it was drawing <em>way</em> too much current, causing the board to overload and shut down.</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:342bbb29-17b8-4843-7a9a-a855caf8888e2014-04-10T23:28:40-06:00<p>The board already has a pull-up resistor that is sufficient to keep it from externally resetting unless the reset pin is actively grounded. Some things to look for: Is anything connected to the reset pin that can pull it to a low level? Does your sketch do anything that might activate the watch-dog timer and then let it time out after a couple of seconds? Does your sketch contain any recursive function calls that may get into an infinite recursion state?</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:7311698a-4b7f-9fc1-0772-96fdd6508d732014-04-10T22:56:54-06:00<p>A good way to do this is using a 2n2222 transistor and a 3300 ohm resistor for each driver. Connect one side of the resistor to the digital output pin, and the other side to the base of the 2n2222. connect the emitter of the 2n2222 to ground, and the collector to the low side of your device. Connect the high side of the device to 9 volts. When you send a high to the digital output pin, the device will turn on, and when you send a low, it will turn off.
You can pick up the transistors and resistors at Radio Shack, or order them on-line from Sparkfun, Digi-key or a number of other places. Sparkfun doesn't sell the 3300 ohm resistor by itself, but that value (3.3K ohm) is in their resistor kit.</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:cc8ccc9b-6860-5a61-35d4-1e9aa19676e32014-04-10T22:27:52-06:00<p>If your supply at the RAW pin can handle it, you can use up to about 250 milliamps of current at 5 volts from the VCC pins. The actual current available is dependent on the currents that must be sourced from the other outputs on the Pro Mini module. For instance, if you use six of the digital outputs, and each of them must source 20 milliamps of current for your project, then there will only be (250 - 6*20) or 130 milliamps available at the VCC connection.</p>
geoganoe on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzgeoganoeurn:uuid:818295ae-7526-b5b6-5fc6-53fb24ac418f2014-04-10T01:26:40-06:00<p>The Arduino Mini that you have referenced, and the Arduino Pro Mini sold here are two different devices. The Pro Mini has a 10K ohm pull-up resistor to VCC internally on the RESET line, so it must be actively driven to ground to cause a reset to occur.</p>
Customer #537316 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #537316urn:uuid:5d94676c-9de3-b05f-096e-8ebe72ac56c42014-04-08T17:25:43-06:00<p>Should the board come with the pins?</p>
Customer #205907 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #205907urn:uuid:b8260d01-a000-e036-eef4-eac9780c65482014-03-29T15:38:21-06:00<p>Do the pins supply 5v in output mode?</p>
dsffasdfdsafadsfasdfadsf on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdsffasdfdsafadsfasdfadsfurn:uuid:4054b2e5-dbec-dbbf-9975-4501574a00352014-03-29T08:50:58-06:00<p>Got this on sale for $3. O YAH!!!!</p>
Customer #536676 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #536676urn:uuid:35cd00a0-d9f1-9440-c204-8df75049ec382014-03-28T14:17:29-06:00<p>Is it possible to program one of these with a prop-plug? I just don't want to buy a breakout board if I already have the hardware...</p>
Customer #408752 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #408752urn:uuid:b9b78026-ac32-d992-696e-25de22662f3e2014-03-28T10:34:23-06:00<p>The link didn't work, but I found a good, simple Instructable at http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Examples-2-Use-an-Arduino-as-a-FTDI-Progr/</p>
Customer #508409 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #508409urn:uuid:4dc7d8ee-d053-625d-0092-6b5b8380d01b2014-03-27T16:13:41-06:00<p>Does this board need anything done to it so it doesn't reset randomly? I don't have one, I might get one, but I don't want to have this problem.<p>This is what I found:</p><p>http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoMini</p><p>"-Reset. Whenever this pin is connected to ground, the Arduino Mini resets. You can wire it to a pushbutton, or connect it to +5V to prevent the Arduino Mini from resetting (except when it loses power). If you leave the reset pin unconnected, the Arduino Mini will reset randomly. "</p></p>
Customer #533364 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #533364urn:uuid:6cc1523a-e0d1-b590-5f44-ef144e9beb8e2014-03-19T01:34:18-06:00<p>Can this board be used to program an ATtiny85 ?</p>
AltoonaBound on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzAltoonaBoundurn:uuid:dc5dd681-e598-8e55-c069-ced6a8f355bb2014-03-10T15:15:47-06:00<p>Hi, I'm a software guy, so please go easy on me! I need to drive 4 9v devices (in current sinking mode) that draw close to 20ma each with a Pro Mini. I know this is very close to the limit on the outputs. I need a simple circuit that will get this done.</p>
Customer #340999 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #340999urn:uuid:f21d0162-f89e-8f49-fa3b-92c8e72ed6762014-03-01T16:56:54-07:00<p><em>Solved</em> by Arduino forum user: tap power to RAW and the sketch runs correctly. VCC on the side of the Pro Mini is the output side of the voltage regulator.</p>
Customer #340999 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #340999urn:uuid:4bd24c9f-cb6f-c359-6ede-1a75cbd478662014-02-27T05:49:46-07:00<p>I have one of these running when powered via FTDI Basic but when I try to power it from a 6V, 9V, or 12V wall wart my sketch won't run; I only have a red LED on the header side of the microprocessor. That LED is lit when powered by FTDI Basic but it is much brighter with a DC adapter to VCC. Any thoughts?</p>
Nate on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzNateurn:uuid:55d01a3e-001f-6c45-0a08-7289ae8544772014-02-11T17:30:41-07:00<p>Hi Dave - sounds like you are fighting the good fight against I2C! It's a tricky one. You are correct that a soft reset may not reset a watch dog timer but I don't believe it to be true for a power cycle reset. WDT is reset with a power up so you should be able to reflash your board with a power cycle.<p>I've never bricked an Arduino after bootloading. It's usually when I fiddle with fuse bits, with an external programmer and no external osc that I get into interesting brick-possible situations.</p></p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:a99691f7-d277-9397-eb5f-5be03285cbf92014-02-11T10:45:07-07:00<p>http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc2545.pdf</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:e0b0b83c-65b0-caf4-ed93-4255da96c0e32014-02-11T10:42:50-07:00<p>A4 &amp; A5</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:f7ea0156-0ba1-152b-44dd-0e63fc3b25cf2014-02-11T10:41:20-07:00<p>it works with power supply connected though you risk damaging your usb port if your power supply spikes above 5vdc..</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:11133dc5-47e8-3cd2-a646-ef4ef926189e2014-02-11T10:38:41-07:00<p>fyi - the the bootloader on the Miro takes almost 5 sec to bootup due to usb device (keyboard/mouse) emulation. pain in the butt when u are trouble shooting code and need to reset the board often.</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:fea54185-9dfb-e190-c436-13dc5bce40062014-02-11T10:34:30-07:00<p>none</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:6d97b452-9b99-0dc0-7e72-9298c9a66a582014-02-11T10:33:59-07:00<p>http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc2545.pdf</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:b834fb47-a540-de32-6b66-1b8b340abbcc2014-02-11T10:32:01-07:00<p>yes</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:056dcabd-ecc4-d524-dbc2-18916540a0702014-02-11T10:31:14-07:00<p>"... has an internal pull-up resistor (disconnected by default) of 20-50 kOhms" - http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:de71582d-f536-c55a-5117-fa45ce73f3662014-02-11T10:29:03-07:00<p>watch out for the Wire library... its full of bugs</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:ad39dd8d-91e1-ea81-5e4c-31790936f2882014-02-11T10:19:19-07:00<p>System resets resulting from a Watchdog timer (wdt.h) are not supported by the bootloader. when the watchdog timer triggers a reset, it will reset the chip but will not reset the timer therefore it will continuously reset every time the chip boots up. This essentially bricks the arduino unless you catch the the chip during the bootloader sequence with a sketch upload.</p>
davebarratt on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdavebarratturn:uuid:f7c4661e-f624-e0f4-ad79-8b2cd208965f2014-02-11T10:09:00-07:00<p>Just a heads up, I've been fighting with the Wire.h library for the past month. To be quite honest, there are a lot of bugs in the official version of the Wire library and in the end I've had to use 2 different modified versions of the TWI.c that steamed from this forum:<p>http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=66353.0</p><p>I managed to get a working version of the library with a modified the twi.c file for the master devices only with timeouts and a bus reinitialize inserted into the "never ending" while loops.</p><p>The original version of the file with timeouts works best for slave devices.</p><p>High data traffic is also a major problem. the communications i was using was fairly simple. i used one byte of data to one device per scan cycle of the arduino. If you try to communicate with multiple devices within a single scan cycle the system will freeze.</p><p>also with any noise on the vcc line the reliability drops significantly.</p><p>I would love to see someone fix this issue. Sadly the problem is outside of my skill level. Its quite frustrating.</p></p>
rileyh on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzrileyhurn:uuid:2685fea6-ec94-f670-13d6-fb6f8e731a782014-02-05T21:54:02-07:00<p>I fried one of the c106 caps on the board, is my board shot? or is it usable and what will the absence of this cap cause?</p>
darrylh on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzdarrylhurn:uuid:21242c4b-faac-fd8b-6752-12f13566a7f32014-02-03T23:10:14-07:00<p>These are great, but I hate having to solder on the row of pins to get a reliable connection to the FTDI breakout, for the very temporary task of programming. To get around this, I glued together a bunch of pogo pins and made a little adapter which makes it really easy to get a nice solid connection for programming a bare Pro Mini.<p>I'm sure SparkFun could come up with a much more professional-looking spring-loaded adapter, though. Maybe even with a clip or something to hold things together?</p></p>
Customer #268363 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #268363urn:uuid:44ced948-08a4-9714-7b12-94cae8e3bad12014-01-30T15:48:49-07:00<p>I am planning to switch out a couple of Uno boards with these Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHz.
Just want to make sure that the I2C can communicate between Uno and Pro Mini-5V without a level shifter ?</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:485fa40b-0579-1250-3185-ca6ff01db38a2014-01-30T11:14:55-07:00<p>Try the Eagle files from the <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/9218" rel="nofollow">previous version</a>. Note that this board does add 2 more pads (A6 and A7) in the middle of the board, similar to A4 and A5 which were also present on the older board. Just to answer your specific questions: Yes, 0.1" pitch headers. Distance from center of pads to edge of board is approximately 0.05" (approximate because there's always a chance of a tiny bit difference in board cutting). The programming header is indeed centered on the short side, from the center of its pins is also 0.05" away from the board edge.</p>
Brent Wilkins on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzBrent Wilkinsurn:uuid:77c2e21a-6152-6645-cc7f-17f72bf311562014-01-30T11:04:55-07:00<p>For those of us stuck on Eagle 5.x, does anyone have an engineering drawing or something equivalent for this board? It seems to use 0.1" pitch headers. How far from the center of these pins to the board edges? Is the programming header centered on the short dimension, and how from from the edge? The coordinates of A4 - A7 would be great too. Thanks.
- Brent</p>
Customer #486756 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #486756urn:uuid:268eb083-bc38-0eaf-9f17-38150cd74bc32014-01-28T00:02:36-07:00<p>So I take it that digital pins 0 and 1 are available under TX and RX pins, just not labeled? I know you're not supposed to use 1 or 0 as a GPIO but still I need them... BTW GREAT board.</p>
Customer #447246 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #447246urn:uuid:7e56e116-6373-154c-e93d-3b7e0c9e0a182014-01-22T06:51:52-07:00<p>Hello, I was wondering what values will have the I2c pull-up resistors for this model?</p>
Dave Mueller on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDave Muellerurn:uuid:e4ab14b2-0917-7a82-cf89-b0d728bacc6d2014-01-21T12:18:09-07:00<p>Put a diode from Vcc to ground, instead of inline. Although, that only works if the Vcc feed has a fuse, or the diode can handle more current than the supply can source. Perhaps a small resettable fuse between the connector and the diode.</p>
Drew Folta on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDrew Foltaurn:uuid:7fc835db-9b31-1d7f-57e8-500f693f979c2014-01-15T21:42:44-07:00<p>Hmmm... something fishy is going on. <code>wc -c hardware/arduino/bootloaders/atmega/ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328.hex</code> gives me 5533. However <code>wc -c hardware/arduino/bootloaders/optiboot/optiboot_atmega328.hex</code> gives me 1467, which is 3.7 times smaller. (Yeah I know that's not really the way to measure the bootloader size on device.)</p>
Drew Folta on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDrew Foltaurn:uuid:b846a503-ac9b-ebf9-02aa-001575e180992014-01-15T21:37:25-07:00<p>No worries. I was just wondering what the Pro Mini I got for Christmas had running, and whether I could squeeze out some more RAM or boot time by going to optiboot.</p>
Nate on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzNateurn:uuid:092128aa-e10b-5e1e-b83b-e0adb9bb8f9c2014-01-15T21:30:05-07:00<p>It's a bit confusing but the Pro and Pro Mini boards have been running an Optiboot equivalent (Arduino used Optiboot and modified it a bit) for a number of years. If you need the exact date we started shipping with Optiboot-esk bootloaders I may be able to dig it up.</p>
Drew Folta on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDrew Foltaurn:uuid:de26ef0b-4caf-d401-703f-5c56763486ca2014-01-15T09:53:50-07:00<p>Which bootloader is this running? Looking in <code>hardware/arduino/boards.txt</code> in my Arduino 1.0.5 app I see <code>pro5v328.bootloader.file=ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328.hex</code>. Is that correct? Could I use optiboot on this instead?</p>
Customer #263393 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #263393urn:uuid:d78703a9-4dcd-b6f0-d3ac-25911d7857272014-01-10T09:24:35-07:00<p>What voltage regulator is used on this board? Based on the specifications the on-board voltage regulator looks like it is a linear regulator, not a switching regulator. Is this correct?</p>
Customer #255632 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #255632urn:uuid:2be7d79f-428a-fde6-61a1-7b5ae501ef4f2014-01-07T17:23:39-07:00<p>I seem to be having a problem with my board resting every couple of seconds. I have tried soldering 120 Ohm equivalent resistance between vcc and the RST as well as a 10 micro-farad capacitor between RST and GND. Aside from removing R2 and C2 I don't know where to go. Is that a good option? Will the Sparkfun FTDI programmer be able auto-reset? It's not a super big deal if I can't auto reset because where this is going it will not be removed for a long, long time.</p>
Nate on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzNateurn:uuid:d7162429-8801-e860-7af5-365519265f9e2013-12-26T08:53:18-07:00<p>A4 and A5 are SDA and SCL respectively. On the Pro Mini these are the two inner pins (look at the bottom of the board).</p>
David_Wieting on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDavid_Wietingurn:uuid:63a04ad1-f194-7049-6953-1763b77105472013-12-24T21:31:53-07:00<p>If you use the FTDI breakout board instead you can get it to work by NOT setting the processor to the 5V Pro Mini 16MHZ mega328 option. Use the 3.3 V Pro Mini 8 MHz mega328 option, as the FTDI breakout board runs on 3.3V. I had your problem exactly until I realized the processor needed it to be seen as 3.3 V. Further experimentation revealed trouble with loading large files. I'm using Windows 7, so I also checked for serial port settings. In my case it was COM12. I set the baud rate to 57600, enabled hardware handshaking. Finally I changed the programmer setting to 'use Arduino as ISP' and then it didn't have problems with loading files bigger than the blink sketch. So far so good, I think that will make it work properly, good luck.</p>
Electroman! on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzElectroman!urn:uuid:24e1ba07-a724-29d3-c81f-76b5b039a1ff2013-12-24T18:20:08-07:00<p>what pin do you use for I2C on the pro mini?</p>
Electroman! on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzElectroman!urn:uuid:7cb7d743-d5f8-fb2e-017d-7e1029a5316a2013-12-24T17:35:34-07:00<p>What pins are used for I2C communication? There are 2 extra analog pins, do you still use A4 and A5?</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:a7c62542-6843-3384-a8e5-a487ff7876532013-12-13T08:28:43-07:00<p>Have you considered the <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11098" rel="nofollow">Pro Micro - 5V/16MHz</a>? It's pretty close to the Mini, except that it uses an atmega with USB support on-board - so you don't need the separate FTDI. Of course if you manage a bunch of Minis with a single FTDI, then that is more economical.</p>
mrwillcreates on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzmrwillcreatesurn:uuid:3a41543d-5136-affd-56fe-d3d0de0c8f622013-12-13T08:13:11-07:00<p>I recently bought several of these, and they work really well. I don't use my Arduino Uno any more because this is less expensive, and is smaller. The only thing I didn't like is that it needs an FTDI board/cable.</p>
Customer #338203 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #338203urn:uuid:beb70cc8-12bf-4829-8a04-848e517e42232013-12-09T16:50:17-07:00<p>Just a note to those that need to use RX1 and TX0 as digital outputs or inputs. This may be common knowledge, but i just discovered that if use TX0 you must call it digital pin 1 (one) in your program, and if you use RX1 as a digital output, you must call it digital pin 0 (zero) in your program. You also need to remove any serial commands from your program, as you can not use these as digital out puts and for Rx and TX also. the pins on the broad are like this:
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Gnd Rst 0 1<p>BTW, this a great product.</p></p>
RobertC. on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzRobertC.urn:uuid:2005fe46-571e-1234-d876-d7dcc4e358112013-12-05T15:49:14-07:00<p>sure thing. it's pretty amazing how many we sell. and the pros sell similarly.</p>
CkShipman on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCkShipmanurn:uuid:7e2edd4e-ba15-802e-1137-e0908faa1e692013-12-05T15:12:07-07:00<p>Amazing. The pro mini is my goto uC at the moment.
I was just curious. Thanks for the information.</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:91a88280-6dc3-a453-4aa0-1bd862f50f752013-12-04T10:32:09-07:00<p>Only a single order of magnitude off? Not bad ;)</p>
RobertC. on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzRobertC.urn:uuid:dc3b0291-cd0e-3633-ae16-06450d8db76e2013-12-04T09:57:34-07:00<p>you are off by quite a bit :-)<p>our current run rate on these is ~600 a week. That puts the 5V alone at around 30k a year. The 3.3v is roughly half that.</p></p>
Toni_K on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzToni_Kurn:uuid:9db27aa4-b837-0647-02b0-cb923b12722c2013-12-04T09:55:31-07:00<p>We sell these in the tens of thousands when you include both this and the 3.3V versions. They are pretty popular. :)</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:c43e7a1d-ef95-f1ce-f6c3-4568fde8fc602013-12-04T08:25:45-07:00<p>A lot. For this particular model - since I don't think sales numbers would be officially reported - I'd have to guess by Archive.org snapshots of inventory that this year, so far, at least 3,000 were sold - possibly 4,000 - and that's not counting all the ones they'll sell this month (you can see they're planning on producing another 720 as it is). Note that there's a huge margin of error in these numbers as Archive.org doesn't have a day-by-day snapshot :)</p>
CkShipman on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCkShipmanurn:uuid:5c68b1c6-7ef3-7562-d2aa-2642d288ae902013-12-04T07:57:13-07:00<p>How many Pro Mini 328s are sold annually?</p>
tash on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztashurn:uuid:ee11390b-a633-8450-e994-166356402b042013-12-02T20:21:49-07:00<p>did you try selecting the appropriate board from "Tools&gt;Board" option in Arduino software?</p>
Customer #451340 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #451340urn:uuid:0c2e618e-294c-e5b9-dd22-4b457aa09f5e2013-11-21T08:01:14-07:00<p>I have just purchased a Pro Min 5V/16Mhz and an FTDI 5V cable from Sparkfun. I have updated the FTDI driver on my Windows 7 computer and loaded the latest V1.0.5 Arduino software. I load the blink program, sent the com port and the board appropriately and download. The green LED on the Pro Min flashs about 4 times, then waits about 4-5 seconds and flashes 1 more time. I then get an error "avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp0x00" in the programmer.<p>This is the first time that I have purchased something from Sparkfun. I would have thought purchasing Sparkfun products that they would work.</p><p>Can anyone advise how I can fix this problem.</p></p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:0e5e296d-08f1-e7de-6920-931642410cbd2013-11-18T07:01:47-07:00<p>The schematic uses a [split net design](http://www.baldengineer.com/blog/2012/12/26/creating-split-net-names-for-eagle/ - basically just giving the nets a name and letting Eagle take care of realizing that they're all connected when it comes to the board phase. It's generally safe to assume that the labels used in the schematic are consistent with the net names, but you can always check out the Eagle files directly to make absolutely sure. If you do so (either schematic or the eagle files), you'll find that VCC on the FTDI basic header is the same VCC as on the voltage regulator, on the ATMEGA328, and on the 4th pin of JP6;
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/i9RLMqk.png" rel="nofollow">image highlighting the VCC net of the Arduino Pro Mini 328</a>.<p>You can similarly determine how the RX/TX lines on the headers are connected (they are, all TXO's with each other, and all RXI's with each other).</p><p>The VCC being hooked directly to the ATMEGA328 means you'd have to check the <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/atmel-8271-8-bit-avr-microcontroller-atmega48a-48pa-88a-88pa-168a-168pa-328-328p_datasheet.pdf" rel="nofollow">datasheet for ATmega328</a> and find that its generally noted max rating is 5.5V.</p></p>
Gaver on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzGaverurn:uuid:5979b9ac-c290-b745-6c04-2da8b28e86c02013-11-18T04:34:49-07:00<p>@Kamaqasi - thanks for the quick reply...
I'm trying to re-utilize the FTDI headers to power the pro-mini due to circuit board real-estate issues.<p>I'm unable to locate a schematic that specify's the tolerance level for the VCC pin(s) on the pro-mini - or that illustrates the relationship (if any) between the FTDI header RX0 and TX1 connections and the RX and TX connections on the port side of the circuit board.</p><p>I only need VCC; GND;RX and Pin 12 for my project - was hoping I could use the same FTDI connections that are used to program the board - with the regulated 5.0v Wall Wart connected to the FTDI Header VCC / GND pins.</p><p>Would you know if the RX/TX connections in the FTDI header are connected to the RX/TX connections on the side of the pro-mini?</p><p>Thanks again for your help...</p></p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:4d35dabc-40fa-c2a8-0ffd-2700c4632a302013-11-17T13:36:18-07:00<p>According to the datasheet, the VCC pin of the FT232R used on the ftdi breakout can take up to 6V (absolute max rating). However, VCCio is listed as max 5.25V - and if you connect the breakout board to the pro mini, VCCio is tied to VCC.<p>That said.. I suspect the max 5.25V is listed due to USB compatibility, and your 5V wall wart's voltage may well drop when under load bringing that 5.5V down anyway.</p><p><em>That</em> said... it's probably still a good idea to go through the on-board regulator. Any particular reason why you would prefer not to?</p></p>
Gaver on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzGaverurn:uuid:b6430565-60f0-e8ca-bc02-12eac04f52bf2013-11-17T08:48:49-07:00<p>What is the tolerance on the ftdi vcc pin?
Im using a 5v wall wart (SFE) to power the project &amp; it appears to be outputting around 5.5 v
Would prefer not to use the raw pin if possible...</p>
Customer #481965 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #481965urn:uuid:a0ff6e7b-fda8-dab4-0c90-09e52662e93f2013-11-14T15:06:41-07:00<p>What would I need if I wanted to attach a battery and the ability to charge that battery over the same usb connection that i use for programming it?<p>Would this component work?</p><p>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11231</p></p>
tim7 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztim7urn:uuid:6a52542b-d064-e1cb-2d73-9073a80e7da42013-10-30T14:52:10-06:00<p>The reg pulls about 0.7mA. Otherwise I'd have just cut the LED, for the reasons you list. The cut can be undone by connecting the two Vcc pins together.</p>
Technobly on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzTechnoblyurn:uuid:4f9235b1-437d-dbe5-f48b-1c1509570bc52013-10-30T11:02:42-06:00<p>There is no power management. If you are powering the board directly from the arduino's VCC pin, you should probably disconnect that power source when plugging in your FTDI cable.</p>
Technobly on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzTechnoblyurn:uuid:c42ebda9-8acf-3b77-f6f9-b4c6de04c6792013-10-30T10:36:26-06:00<p>That trace disconnects the 5V regulator, and it's output 10uF cap, the VCC pin of the FTDI header and the power status LED. from the rest of the circuit. You will not be able to reprogram your circuit without powering the unit from batteries directly on the Arduino's VCC header pin. You've also lost some of your 5V stiffening/decoupling... not too bad if you are not doing anything noisy with the circuit, especially since you are running on batteries. However, I think just providing a solder jumper for the power status LED is the thing that will really matter for current draw. (5V - 2V) / 10k = 0.3mA assuming it's a red led. I can't imagine there is much current back-feeding into the 5V regulator, but you'd have to check.</p>
Sleepwalker3 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSleepwalker3urn:uuid:9fa60475-011c-d722-09e4-20f9dcf1c2ed2013-09-21T05:12:50-06:00<p>Sounds like you have a short across the Reg. Check for any soldering shorts - more likely you have shorted something or done something wrong, rather than SF not testing it correctly. If you really have 9V on Vcc, I don't think the Micro is going to be too healthy now! If you've checked and you're sure it's not you, then contact customer service.</p>
Sleepwalker3 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSleepwalker3urn:uuid:503a93d1-9c39-3c22-6ebe-fa5d7c43d0722013-09-21T05:10:05-06:00<p>The answer is probably the same answer to the question "Why don't they fix the Arduino pinout up?" - For whatever reason, they tend to stick with a dud format to keep compatibility, even though the design could be made much better, hence future generations will be stuck with that until somebody brings out something in a decent footprint that becomes more popular than whatever came before it.</p>
Sleepwalker3 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzSleepwalker3urn:uuid:d9e8f2d6-ef5c-3d62-c398-bfbcf815ebaf2013-09-21T05:02:51-06:00<p>Would be good if they specifically noted this on the circuit diagram, though they don't show it as PC6/PC7, so I guess it 'implies' that.
@C Poff, did you ever get Pin 1 sorted?</p>
rmeyer on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzrmeyerurn:uuid:8cd68a87-042f-75c9-c205-30a1a8bc27c42013-09-10T10:59:20-06:00<p>My guess is that they wanted to follow the now somewhat conventional footprint/pinout that the 24-pin Basic Stamp2's use. Particularly, pins 21 through 24 have the same functions, providing the same necessary power supply, ground, Vout, and reset lines the Basic Stamp2 uses. I also noticed the new 24-Pin version of Parallax's Propeller microcontroller uses the same pinout.<p>The programming connections are different, but that is to be expected in this case.</p><p>I have several older BS2-based projects that I am considering reworking and "supercharging" with this new Arduino board. The hardware compatibility will allow me to resurrect some of those older projects and try some things that the BS2 is simply to slow to handle.</p><p>Rob</p></p>
Patrick113 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzPatrick113urn:uuid:0ab64c38-6a48-df65-b3ce-84ad132310fc2013-08-31T20:37:30-06:00<p>The best way to make sure the serial port is still working is to write a program where the Arduino echoes all serial commands it receives. Then, you can hook it up to a computer, send random characters to it, and watch them appear in the serial monitor.</p>
afulki on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzafulkiurn:uuid:793f829d-3492-4f42-6c98-a907b23fe6b82013-08-27T08:45:50-06:00<p>I have one of the 5V boards, when I supply 9V (from battery) on RAW, I see 9v on the VCC connection, I thought this was supposed to be regulated to 5V?</p>
Toni_K on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzToni_Kurn:uuid:72712793-fba1-9c1e-ed16-0cf9cee7fda02013-08-19T09:03:22-06:00<p>This is a possibility. If you have a lot of boards based around the old design, I'd recommend copying the old part into the new library once you have it downloaded. Or just keep the old version of the library and change the name on one of them. At that point, it just comes down to what organization method works for you.</p>
automaton on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzautomatonurn:uuid:596f716d-023d-54b6-f0f6-91d2c69ff2ea2013-08-16T18:04:00-06:00<p>Thanks!! So if I have some previous boards designed with the old Pro Mini part will they get messed up if I replace the library with the new one since the new Pro Mini part has additional pins?</p>
Toni_K on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzToni_Kurn:uuid:c33894b4-b5f7-ace5-c3ad-2d49c076356a2013-08-13T13:15:52-06:00<p>We just added in the Pro Minis about a week ago. Try updating your library from the GitHub repo.</p>
automaton on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzautomatonurn:uuid:297533e2-64f2-607e-ca0f-23d9568527922013-08-13T11:47:09-06:00<p>Has this been updated? I think I have the newest version of the library but it doesn't look like they've been added.</p>
Customer #434698 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #434698urn:uuid:aef3e935-e3cb-2f4c-0a6d-a4c49ec956572013-08-07T07:40:12-06:00<p>What's the crystal on these? Anyone have a part # for it?</p>
The Doctor Doge on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzThe Doctor Dogeurn:uuid:251dcbf0-6387-269c-6f28-a1f69d5acee42013-08-04T18:24:11-06:00<p>On most arduinos, like the UNO, there is an led there that doesn't seem to interfere with any SPI devices I've used.</p>
Customer #338627 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #338627urn:uuid:6bf912c8-2474-bb43-55d0-c53342ffe8b92013-07-31T19:00:24-06:00<p>okay now for the $64,000 question......<p>WHY wasn't this NOT put on a 28 pin DIP format instead of the 24 pin DIP format?
This should be considered on the following batches so that those 4 extra pads that are in the WIERD places can be properly addressed....</p><pre><code> THU!!
</code></pre></p>
PatrickSK on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzPatrickSKurn:uuid:0d1ef37b-2e23-5c33-36b8-3a9130c263f72013-07-31T15:02:18-06:00<p>could anyone tell me the operating temperature range for this board?</p>
Robomaniac on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzRobomaniacurn:uuid:ddb31a2f-aa21-d78c-8b00-63a686c8d28c2013-07-29T12:21:38-06:00<p>it weighs 1,53g no-headers and with 3.67g with headers</p>
Customer #408752 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #408752urn:uuid:79122e88-e5c5-339a-ebde-e645537d72dd2013-07-27T11:32:43-06:00<p>The FTDI cable does not bring out DTR but does bring out RTS. I read a lot of stuff about this, some claiming that DTR is necessary for reset and other claiming that RTS will also achieve reset. I breadboarded a programmer using RTS and successfully downloaded my sketch into an Uno preloaded with the bootloader.</p>
nixpulvis on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHznixpulvisurn:uuid:eae19758-d883-0f73-06b7-5776965f254c2013-07-26T21:07:27-06:00<p>Also wondering this.</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:b8ef6ec7-1264-8bad-12e1-769ad01accd12013-07-23T17:21:32-06:00<p>Fair enough. Note that we also carry a <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11114" rel="nofollow">3.3V version</a>, which I find very useful (it will happily run off a 3.7V Lipo, and will talk to 3.3V sensors with no voltage-translation circuitry required).</p>
nixpulvis on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHznixpulvisurn:uuid:f16a0bdc-8504-63f5-2d03-ad6ffcb47b722013-07-23T17:12:50-06:00<p>I guess that wasn't a very well articulated comment. People buying this board who are used to the Arduino having a 3.3v out might be surprised to find this board without one, if they don't read the description thoroughly.</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:51226eed-c802-13f7-298d-f9fe63275e6f2013-07-23T12:40:38-06:00<p>Sorry about that (it happens to the best of us), but from the description and schematic I don't believe these are reverse-polarity protected - if you let us know where you see that stated I'll be sure to have it removed.<p>EDIT: I'll add that there's no practical way I know of to reverse-polarity protect the VCC line, since people will use it for both a power input and a power output. A diode would necessarily be one or the other.</p></p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:c6506e2f-3b96-177e-6fc0-f6ba53575d952013-07-23T12:36:48-06:00<p>?</p>
nixpulvis on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHznixpulvisurn:uuid:e0a22429-c6bc-611d-5162-ca2240a9ab602013-07-22T19:58:02-06:00<p>I highly recommend buying a 3.3 volt regulator with these guys, just in case. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/526</p>
Customer #434589 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #434589urn:uuid:6014796d-8b23-969b-ce78-4acdbf6f42262013-07-14T20:05:17-06:00<p>I noticed there is a green LED on the Pro Mini connected to the SCK line (digital pin D13). I'm using SPI to talk to a digital pot, which uses SCK. I'd like to move my project from a bare 328 to the Pro Mini. Will the Pro Mini's LED interfere with SPI?
Thank you in advance!</p>
David38 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDavid38urn:uuid:911a7f12-07fe-70c0-8bca-49a6dbf535362013-07-12T17:08:34-06:00<p>I had a similar problem with something that worked fine when powered from my benchtop power supply, but sounded weird when powered from a wall wart. Apparently my wall wart was too wimpy to keep up with sudden changes in current. I fixed it by adding a big capacitor -- 1000 uF -- across V_RAW and GND.</p>
Customer #438162 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #438162urn:uuid:fbf78edc-21ff-20ce-2888-37cbfb041d8d2013-06-02T19:59:54-06:00<p>I have this hooked up to an ID-20 for an RFID project but it doesn't seem to be receiving data correctly. The sketch uploads correctly and everything looks fine until I scan a card and then nothing happens. I prototyped everything out on a breadboard UNO and it works fine if I plug everything up to it but not when I use the mini.<p>I am following this build: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-RFID-Door-Lock/</p><p>Is there anyway to test the serial pin (RX) ?</p></p>
Customer #440749 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #440749urn:uuid:b0954a39-6230-47f7-6c2c-f1a80c1ac2d52013-05-24T09:54:36-06:00<p>What type of "Over current protected" is there on this board?</p>
wsanders on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzwsandersurn:uuid:46f58e90-5bbc-5b72-9038-1aaa916b64892013-05-20T14:24:52-06:00<p>How much power does the CPU use? The arduino.cc page says each pin can sink 40ma. Looks like the regulator can deliver 150 ma.</p>
Customer #434698 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #434698urn:uuid:4dce7ac0-d95a-7845-6f36-3f882e94829c2013-05-07T20:07:40-06:00<p>Anyone have the correct timer and pin settings for AltSoftSerial for the 5V board?<p>http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_AltSoftSerial.html</p></p>
zouze on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzzouzeurn:uuid:b2d38fb4-da99-d2d5-c79b-da65ce4b23ce2013-04-12T03:32:57-06:00<p>is this compatible with voltage divider shield found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150993542084 ?</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:7a3ca2bb-6fda-950f-f7e4-1ffa8a3e7c5f2013-04-01T14:42:54-06:00<p>Excellent! Yes, do disable the vreg and you should have greatly improved power numbers. Also check out <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/309" rel="nofollow">Nate's micropower tutorial</a> if you haven't yet. Good luck!</p>
Customer #48109 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #48109urn:uuid:58501f10-59d3-9a9f-c655-c1d4396652ad2013-03-30T07:16:57-06:00<p>Thanks! Yes, I did in fact burn new fuse values and then a new bootloader to run at 8MHz and fed in 3.3V on VCC, everything runs like a charm. It still seems to draw a bit more power than I'd like in sleep mode and probably going to try to cut the trace to the voltage regulator.</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:4e71893b-a794-98e3-5864-90ed0db012132013-03-19T14:20:03-06:00<p>The only differences between the two boards are the voltage regulator and the external oscillator (sorry, and the bootloader). The ATmega itself will happily run at either 5V or 3.3V.<p>If you have a 3.3V supply, you can certainly feed that into VCC and run the board at 3.3V. Which leaves the 16MHz oscillator. One option at this point is to keep running it at 16MHz (and choose "5V/16MHz" in your IDE so the timing is right). Although this is technically outside the guaranteed safe envelope, these chips tend to have a bit of margin built into them to tolerate manufacturing variations. It may work perfectly fine.</p><p>You're correct about the rest of your options; if you must run at 8MHz, you can use the internal 8MHz source (requires new fuse bits) or divide the external source using the prescaler (requires changing a register). You -might- be able to get around this without making bootloader changes, but it would be hacky - you'd have to compile your code for 8MHz (including changing the prescaler register early on), but the bootloader would be running at 16MHz. Let us know what you end up doing.</p><p>(And it should be said - if you haven't used the boards yet, you can always contact our customer service department for an exchange). Good luck!</p></p>
Customer #48109 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #48109urn:uuid:ff908d3d-5705-e4cf-b563-465c9fd1366d2013-03-19T12:57:03-06:00<p>I inadvertantly purchased some of these boards for my sensor project instead of the 3.3v version. Does anyone know if its possible to burn a custom bootloader which changes the CPU pre scaler, or to use the internal oscillator to get the clock speed down to 8mhz or lower. Also if we bypass the voltage regulator would that be enough to run this off of 3.3v? What other changes would be necessary? changing the fuses, etc?</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:75bb61c7-cb58-51f3-a63d-b107603ca4912013-03-06T10:13:27-07:00<p>That's definitely strange, since that isn't a combination we manufacture! Very sorry about that. If you put 6V onto the VIN pin, either 3.3V or 5V will appear on the VCC pins. If the part wasn't what you were expecting, or you have any trouble with it, please contact our Customer Support department and we'll make sure you get a new one (with the correct labels!)</p>
Customer #416108 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #416108urn:uuid:5ac68a33-070b-722e-4b45-5f220953a1c92013-03-06T02:58:59-07:00<p>I have Pro Mini. On the back side it have checked 3.3V and 16Mhz by black pen.<p>What type Pro Mini have I got ( 3.3 or 5V)? How can I check it?</p><p>BR,</p><p>Vitaly</p></p>
tim7 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztim7urn:uuid:c2b9d863-c5cc-02b0-8488-d5ee9fe8c6d32013-02-20T07:26:25-07:00<p>In various projects I use a 1.5V battery boosted to either 3.3V or 5V, depending on whether I'm using an 8MHz or 16MHz Arduino and what voltage the other parts of the project require. The trace-cut disconnects the regulator and the power LED, so you need to provide power to Vcc.</p>
Customer #407608 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #407608urn:uuid:5ca75fc6-48a6-5d2c-e5ce-70b51c82fff42013-02-19T06:10:26-07:00<p>what is the voltage of your battery,3.7v?
Are you connecting the battery to Vcc or VRAW?
Are you also cutting off the status led?
After cutting the trace, are you driving the Pro mini with 3.7v? is everything working fine under this voltage without regulation?</p>
Chief Buffoon on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzChief Buffoonurn:uuid:1e85bbd4-a197-101c-e4bc-0249decc5d722013-01-28T00:08:04-07:00<p>Does the Mini Pro have power management features that allow me to hard-wire 5V power to the board, and then still plug in an FTDI board that is powered via USB? Or do I need to disconnect the board power before plugging in the FTDI?</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:2ab9d6dc-91b6-c434-25ac-fb1e69416cad2013-01-14T18:18:47-07:00<p>That's a fair request; I'll get an updated version in there. Thanks for the feedback!</p>
R0unin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzR0uninurn:uuid:40ced431-3439-ab67-a28f-e81c05ec1a1b2013-01-14T07:19:21-07:00<p>Unfortunately it looks like the Sparkfun Eagle Libraries' &acirc;&#128;&#156;SparkFun-Boards.lbr&acirc;&#128;&#157; is for the older version, ie without A4, A5, A6, and A7. So if you want to use those pins, or if you want to use i2c, you need to put in your own off grid headers. It would be nice if Sparkfun can update the library. one entry for the vanilla mini and another for the Pro mini</p>
MikeGrusin on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMikeGrusinurn:uuid:547ee726-f69a-85b7-c8a0-ad59cd366c782013-01-02T10:25:00-07:00<p>It's in the <a href="https://github.com/sparkfun/SparkFun-Eagle-Libraries" rel="nofollow">Sparkfun Eagle Libraries</a>, in "SparkFun-Boards.lbr" as "ARDUINO_MINI"</p>
truehybridx on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztruehybridxurn:uuid:40a97073-268e-3408-c649-0ebed5281c4f2013-01-01T10:57:28-07:00<p>is there already an eagle library with a footprint of this? i want to make a schematic that integrates this board but would want to reinvent the wheel if someone else already did it</p>
musiq021 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzmusiq021urn:uuid:7b7755d1-078e-ff88-93fd-451826c9d1e82012-12-27T18:02:09-07:00<p>I'm having a straaaange issue with this board. Strange indeed, yes.<p>I moved to this board from an Uno. The circuit it's interfacing with remains essentially unchained.</p><p>Part of said circuit is a little Piezo Buzzer. It produces the occasional beep. Which with the uno always sounded fine.</p><p>The buzzer now sounds like it has a sore throat when powered from my 9 or 12 volt wall warts. (through the raw input). Strangely enough, it sounds just fine when powered over USB or directly by my benchtop variable power supply (spanning the 5-12v range).</p><p>Any thoughts as to why? I probed the buzzed with a little oscilloscope and couldn't detect a marked difference in the readings.</p></p>
skumdog on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzskumdogurn:uuid:5daf54f5-306b-fb2b-9808-e7b990a28a062012-12-22T10:57:21-07:00<p>Love that link.</p>
Customer #371813 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #371813urn:uuid:783f3e8a-15bb-af27-0b97-38fba19b37352012-11-18T00:06:09-07:00<p>Does anyone know how many timers these have?</p>
chartle on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzchartleurn:uuid:e9f0a2da-6e14-27c3-7215-ce93631a5f182012-11-08T12:52:43-07:00<p>I just don't see what you could use the protoshield for since it doesn't bring up the I/O pins. If you read the comments its already been requested to add all the pins so no need for me to add a 'me too'. I brought it up since I figured someone would point me there.<p>But anyway, forget the second part because I don't know how I never found this. <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9627" rel="nofollow">Mini FET Shield</a></p><p>Its pretty much EXACTLY what I need. Oddly I never found it here. I found it by searching for mini shields at arduino.cc.</p></p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:a0276da6-9a58-c3b6-f858-22eb52a29ee12012-11-07T14:07:08-07:00<p>Any meaningful reply would <em>have</em> to be based on why you believe the <a href="http://sfe.io/9709" rel="nofollow">ProtoShield for Arduino Pro Mini</a> does not fit your needs. You're correct that this would be another thread, so perhaps you can explain in that product's comments?<p>But here's a less meaningful reply in the mean time: Why not pick up a <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?sort_by=price_asc&amp;per_page=50&amp;term=protoboard&amp;what=products" rel="nofollow">generic protoboard</a>? Unlike the main Arduinos with their spacing issues (solved by a product that should never have had to exist, the <a href="http://sfe.io/9374" rel="nofollow">Arduino Offset Header</a>, all of the pins on the Pro Mini are on a standard 0.1" grid. Just cut the board down to the size you want/need.</p></p>
chartle on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzchartleurn:uuid:3d8a1908-5908-1332-e023-338ca1ba2ebc2012-11-07T13:51:07-07:00<p>Has anyone found like a proto shield for this form factor. Yes I know about the one here but it really doesn't fit my needs. Personally I don't see it fitting anyone's needs but thats another thread. :-)<p>My plan is to make a LED Controller board that uses a Darlington Driver 8-Channel ULN2803 that would control the LEDs, either singles or strands, through JST 2 connectors.</p><p>I would have a few inputs as well also using JST connectors.</p><p>So the 2803, some JST's and probably LEDs on the board for status of the strings for trouble shooting. I got some really tiny 1.8 mm LEDs from Evil Mad Scientist for that.</p><p>I want it to be very generic/flexible so it could be used for a number of control projects but it mostly for costumes hence the use of a pro mini.</p></p>
Demolishun on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzDemolishunurn:uuid:dce3de1c-2eaf-9205-5a25-3a24f179501a2012-11-02T13:20:04-06:00<p>Holy crap SF! You helped me solve another engineering problem. I needed a small Arduino/Micro powered off of 12VDC prepacked. This fits the bill. Thanks!</p>
Customer #13177 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #13177urn:uuid:8411d90a-ed5e-d01e-83dd-dfd3f446ca062012-10-04T12:39:36-06:00<p>Is anyone having issues with programming these using the ftdi basic usb to rs232? I seem to be having a timing issue where it seems to reset as it is supposed to and all the right lights flash like the board is OK but... I get 'stk500_recv() programmer is not responding' errors. I have soldered and resoldered. I looped the ftdi basic and verified that it works. I re-checked everything twice. I've tried every conceivable combination of baud rate. I even removed the DTR and tried to manually time the reset like a crazed lunatic hitting the button and trying to "catch" the timing by hand.<p>I came across this: https://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&amp;t=27960 from over a year ago and am wondering if replacing the bootloader is my huckleberry or if this is from a previous revision only?</p></p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzKamiquasiurn:uuid:d1d2348e-9458-5add-1ffb-9092363fb0122012-09-25T12:56:06-06:00<p>Not missing it - ARef (pin20) connects to C1 connects to GND. Analog pins should thus be relative to the 5V Vcc. You could wire something to it if you need a separate ARef - if you're adventurous enough.</p>
TatankaWilly on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzTatankaWillyurn:uuid:a887571c-3997-16c0-4295-74bc5623b1202012-09-25T12:25:04-06:00<p>Does this thing have the Analog reference pin out? Or am I missing it somewhere?</p>
Customer #9324 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #9324urn:uuid:737b8008-adb7-3e9e-2c48-75b4858b49062012-09-17T13:46:38-06:00<p>Can you let us know what connection you're severing on the schematic when you do this mod? We've been using a lot of these boards for a project, and would love to reduce the standby current.</p>
streuzucker on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzstreuzuckerurn:uuid:740fa4f5-9cd1-f6fb-8349-801ef1ffceb52012-08-22T07:37:35-06:00<p>I plugged my regulated 5v power supply into a jack, then ran the +/&acirc;&#128;&#147; to my 5v Pro Mini&acirc;&#128;&#153;s VCC and GND. I really should have checked the polarity of the jack, but I didn&acirc;&#128;&#153;t and it was opposite of what I assumed. I plugged it in and the thing literally burst into flame. Does &acirc;&#128;&#156;Reverse Polarity Protected&acirc;&#128;&#157; not mean what I think it means?</p>
Purple People Eater on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzPurple People Eaterurn:uuid:5c53e1c6-60a6-04fe-0d38-d2275849fce22012-08-05T16:07:55-06:00<p>I'm pretty new as well but i would suggest the 3.3v variant of this board:<p>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11114</p><p>Hope that helps!</p></p>
JRiggles on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzJRigglesurn:uuid:78897f37-139a-d953-baea-1034a917dcac2012-08-05T09:01:34-06:00<p>That's awesome - I second this.</p>
bleudeciel16 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzbleudeciel16urn:uuid:f52d681d-e526-ccca-0f5b-15b42a63072e2012-07-08T19:20:21-06:00<p>I protyped a project on an uno, then bought a pro mini from sparkfun (the 5v/16mhz version), then flashed the same project onto it, and it runs very slow. Like half as fast at least. Is there any reason a project that runs quickly on an uno would run slower on this, even though it's supposedly the same clock speed as the uno? (or is mine broken and running at 8mhz?)</p>
48X24X48X on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHz48X24X48Xurn:uuid:de3ead05-43c7-fb02-ece7-a843e1a065be2012-06-03T23:40:33-06:00<p>Pin A6 &amp; A7 are pure analog input pins.</p>
C Poff on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzC Poffurn:uuid:3eb33e74-dc54-dec5-169d-27e25969f8572012-05-30T12:16:21-06:00<p>I've run across some unusual quirks when using this board. I've used this board as a controller for an EM-38A (the latter set to Binary trigger mode) so that I could read 13 digital inputs and put out what is essentially a byte address via the analog pins.<p>Is there any reason why A6 and A7 can't seem to write a digital HIGH or LOW? Does that have to do with the board, or is that a limitation in the ATmega328? Turns out I could wire around that problem, but still I was surprised to encounter it.</p><p>I also had issues with Pin 1. I set it as input and pulled it up with a HIGH write, but it never reads LOW even when it's closed to ground. I thought that one could use pins 0 and 1 as normal pins long as one isn't worried about serial communications during normal operation -- am I wrong about that?</p><p>I knew I was running up against the upper limits of pins. (I'd forgotten that on most standard boards pin 13 is loaded down with an LED). I'm starting to wish I preemptively bought a multiplexer for this project, just to be on the safe side.</p></p>
Madone on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzMadoneurn:uuid:a682da99-6b25-30e2-4d83-0336e73409242012-05-10T07:47:24-06:00<p>Take a look at the hardware page on the Arduino.cc website, http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini<p>SPI communications are done on pins 11 (MOSI), 12 (MISO), 13 (SCK).</p><p>Also, look at the SPI library page,
http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SPI</p></p>
Customer #316435 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #316435urn:uuid:4c6d6557-4bd7-2e7d-70a5-02ef80e34d382012-05-03T11:59:52-06:00<p>How hard is it to interface this board with the WiFly module(http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11049)?
I don't see any SCK MISO MOSI pins so I'm confused how the SPI would work. (I'm new to all this. Please do explain more if my question does not make any sense)</p>
Customer #202232 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #202232urn:uuid:56ec77cd-bb1c-bbc5-125d-f926db5dbae92012-05-03T11:07:49-06:00<p>http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+program+an+arduino+from+an+arduino<p>=)</p></p>
jchalo99 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzjchalo99urn:uuid:c558b3f1-6557-5c72-92bc-635e2eeb8d6d2012-04-27T07:03:57-06:00<p>ok how would i go about programing this, i dont have much time to order the FTDI breakout. I have an arduino mega 1280. is there code out there that i can upload onto my arduino mega, that would allow it to be the FTDI?<p>i know all i need is Tx,Rx,5v,gnd, CTS,RTS. but how can i get thoes out of the arduino mega 1280?</p></p>
Customer #202232 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #202232urn:uuid:af048b10-2639-ca68-b48e-2891781609b82012-04-23T07:35:29-06:00<p>I am a relatively new Arduino user - have been playing for about a year now, but have only done a handful of small projects. I've recently purchased this 5v pro mini and a triple access accelerometer (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10955) The accelerometer is a 3.3v piece, and this pro mini is a 5v. If I want to use the two together do I need to get a 3.3-&gt;5v logic controller (for example http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745) or can I simply build myself a circuit that has a 3.3v power source? I was planning to design this into a project that would have a custom PCB, and if I can simply plan in a 3.3v regulator, I may do that.<p>Happy to supply more details if more info is needed.</p></p>
tim7 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHztim7urn:uuid:a6b0d957-4246-7eda-ed66-a23fe5037cfd2012-04-01T04:56:44-06:00<p>I know you've only just updated these boards, but may I make a suggestion for the next version?<p>For my battery-powered projects I've been modifying my ProMini boards by cutting the trace from the voltage regulator. See <a href="http://timgiles.free.fr/forumpics/ProMini-cut.jpg" rel="nofollow">this picture</a>. This reduces the minimum current draw from ~1mA to ~1uA in power-saving modes.</p><p>It would be really nice if the next PCB revision had this connection on solder-pads. That would make the low-power modification easier to do (and undo).</p></p>
Customer #148444 on DEV-11113 - Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHzCustomer #148444urn:uuid:81b989e0-375b-7a3b-f796-7869308223492012-03-28T11:54:45-06:00<p>After laying out a board for the previous revision of the Pro Mini I thought it would be nice to get all those other pins beyond the dip pattern into the Eagle footprint. I used flying leads for DTS, SDA and SCL to connect onto the PC board. Nobody would be forced to put header pins into the non standard locations, but it wouldn't really be difficult either.</p>