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July 29, 2014

For the record, I am not willing to share with you how long this dress has resided in my sewing room as an unfinished project. But lets just state that the pattern Simplicity 1882 was released a few years ago.

Sew Melodic in the wilderness

Alaskan Side Note: Last week a moose was in this spot in my front yard, I figure if the spot is good enough for me to photo the moose in, its the perfect spot for blog photos.

The moose in my front yard

Fabric: Grey floral print is a linen (poly) blend from the stash, which was at one point purchased at JoAnn. Black contrast (collar and pocket flaps) is a cotton broadcloth. I flatlined all the pieces of the dress in a grey lining fabric. The lining was a great addition, it subsided the wrinkles in the linen fashion fabric and added structure and stability to the dress. Inner garment view:

When I cut my pattern I forgot to add my broad back adjustment. The fit would have been better had I not suffered from brain loss, the dress is functional but I do get drag lines under the arms and at the back.

I elected to edit the collar construction: The pattern intends you to construct the collar so it is free hanging of the center back zip. I constructed my collar to meet the center back seam and then applied the center back zip to enclose with the collar at the center back neckline. In turn this affected the stand and roll of the collar, my collar now dimples at the shoulder line. In a perfect would I would planned for this as I prefer the center back neckline with my construction method but now that collar dimple is yelling at me that it needs a redraft with a slight wedge of roll room... Next time.

The curved piping waistline is what drew me to this pattern in the first place. For my dress I used a black satin piping remnants from the stash. I worried that the satin and matte of the contrast would not work together but in the end I found that they blended fairly well.

Simplicity 1882 pockets detailed:

The pocket pieces are a much different shape from standard pockets. After the contrast is attached to the skirt front the pockets are attached.

They get flipped and pressed to the wrong side.

And then folded to create the pocket bags!

The top of the pocket bag is enclosed in the waistline seam and the pocket side is enclosed in the skirt side seam. There is no shifting of the hanging pocket bags.