Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I have sampled quite a few XerJoff fragrances and want to share my impressions on them.
All my reviews are in german, so I translated them with google. I know this isn't the best way to translate something, but the most easy

Now I am planning to buy a XerJoff fragrance, but I'm not shure wich one is the best for me. I am very picky, when it comes to fragrances. But I think I will go for a bottle of Uden. It's gorgeous. I will support XerJoff as much as I can. In germany, hardly anyone knows about these amazing fragrances.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Yesterday I was in Douglas (Novosibirsk, Russia) - and SA told me that the Casamorati BIG HIT is MEPHISTO.
They sell all the stock of it, while Bouquet Ideale, Fiero, Fiori d`Ulivo still on shelves.
That`s one city statistics.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Originally Posted by cairomerta

Great Reviews Sasuke! Uden is the #1 seller so far here in the USA. Its such an amazing scent.

I can see why Uden is the #1 seller. It has a really comforting scent and the top notes are strange (in a positive way). I think the special thing about Uden is, that the perfumer used a molecule that smells fresh and blue (almost sporty) and blended it with all these delicious notes, such as rum, coffee, vanilla and an amazing sandalwood. I've never smelled a blend like this before!

Anyway, I have a question: Do you know what a 100 ml Uden with gift box will cost? I only know the price for the 50 ml gift box.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Uden is fantastic, I love it as well as Nio, Kobe and Fiero. I also like Mefisto, but it doesn't last long on me unfortunately.

I already sent an e-mail to XerJoff, but they do not answer, maybe I have to wait a few more days? Last month I asked them for samples and I received them very quick... But now I don't get any reaction from them.

I really like Mefisto, too. It smells pretty natural and on my skin it lasts surprisingly long.
Fiero is not my cup of tea! It's to herbal and spicy for my taste. Kobe is quite nice, but not as great as Uden or Oesel!

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

First in Fragrance based in Germany now sell Xerjoff Uden, although they only show the 50ml on their site.
You could give them a call, as I'm certain they would be able to order the 100ml size for you.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I had the delightful opportunity to smell the Xerjoff samples that are currently circulating. I feel so grateful to have gotten a chance to get to know these cost-prohibitive scents personally and privately. Thank you, cello! After me, it will go to Un profumo affetuoso.

I have chosen to post my impressions of the line here on the men's forum thread, since I enjoyed the 'masculine' offerings quite a bit more than the 'feminine' ones.

I should mention, I found that many of the Xerjoff fragrances smelled almost exactly like other scents I knew, which are very good scents, yet not very popular... in almost every instance. I wonderif there isn't a method of safe derivation in place, by which they can ensure scent-success and not being discovered both. Odd. I'll mention all of the 'inspiration' scents I recognised while smelling the line, for the sake of money-saving alternatives for any Xerjoff fans.

I shall start with the Casamorati 1888 line, since I feel these represent the best Xerjoff has to offer.

Casamorati 1888 Mephisto - Categorically my favorite Xerjoff. Reminiscent of Amouages Ciel Man, a complex, light and soapy floral for men. I even like the drydown, which is a solid, soft santal and vanilla. Very, very good, but is it as good as Ciel Man, which costs less? Not quite. Ciel Man is considerably smoother, more 'unmistakable', has WAY more sillage, and lasts quite a while longer. 8.5 out of 10.

Casamorati 1888 - Fiero - If I were caused to buy one scent from this line, or rather offered-for-free one scent from Xeroff, it might be this one. A strikingly-sophisticated barbershop fougere, based on lavender, with a warm and lasting, civety base. This one smells to me like a perfected, or made-with-finer-ingredients version of YSL Pour Homme. I mentioned I'd choose it, as I'd like to smell it on my boyfriend.

Casamorati 1888 - Fiore d'Ulivo - This starts off very intense, and not entirely pleasant, but many of these scents require a wait, I have discovered. I am reminded of the tonic-fruity opening of PdN's Fig Tea. Which I like well enough. As it develops, it becomes a sort-of peachy osmanthus-floral, with no other obvious notes, much like Fig Tea in fact, but not quite as subtle. It's lovely enough, and I'd likely wear it if I had it, on my osmanthus-vibe days... but I much much prefer TDC's Osmanthus, which I feel is the paragon of this genre. 8 out of 10.

Casamorati 1888 - Bouquet Ideale - Here I am in the territory of disgust. This is a joss-stick scent, which emulates the very powdery, floral, saccharin variety of incense -- those which I associate with lesser, discount incense brands, and typically feel ill around. I am a lover of good incense scents, though, but those that are spicy and elegant. This is not one. Vulgar and CLOYING. 2 out of 10.

X 1771 XXY - This is my favorite of the X 1771 line, a rather generic, but well-done powdery men's scent, in the vein of Amouage's Gold Man. It's drydown is a little too simple, I feel, and after about twenty minutes it seems to have lost its mojo. Nonetheless, it's a good use of powder, and I appreciate it. But Gold Man 'has it all over' this: more charisma AND greater sillage and longevity, for FAR less money. 8 out of 10.

X 1771 Iriss - This is a quite impressive, salty iris scent, which immediately struck my fancy. I found it incredibly similar to Delrae's Mythique, and again not quite as nice. But more importantly, not nearly as lasting. This scent literally disappeared in five minutes. 6 out of 10, 2 points subtracted due to dismal longevity.

X 1771 Elle - A very syrupy, sticky fruit scent with no discernible character or direction. The drydown was wet diapers, and frankly unpleasant. 4.5 out of 10.

X 1771 Homme - GROSS! This blunt 'leather' shoots for the tanning solution rather than the leather itself. And its both caustic, and revolting. Gentlemen, buy any other leather. It occurs to me it's a more-obnoxious, angrier 'version' of Domenico Caraceni 1881. 2 out of 10

Shooting Stars Uden - A very beautiful, camphorous-yet-sweet fougere. How I love a fougere that can be worn easily by women. This one is almost divine, and dries down sexy-spicy, almost Oriental. The problem is it smells dangerously close to Paco Rabanne's magnificent Tenere. Which can be found for some 25USD on ebay. 8.5 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Dhofar - An excellent, animalic citrus, with a nice, soapy, herbal aspect, and an daring overload of cumin. Oh, dear! This is quite simply Eau d'Hermes. 8 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Nio - Annick Goutal does cardamon. A very bright, heady, quirky, tart, citric cypress-chypre, with a strong cardamon note on top. However the cardamon fades almost instantly and all that's left is Eau d'Hadrien. 8 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Lua - A thick pineapple-and-chocolate fruity-Oriental. Almost exactly like Balenciaga's discontinued beauty Talisman. But Talisman is smoother, and less canned-pineapple-smelling. And even though it's pricey nowadays, it's a fraction of the cost of Nio.
8.25 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Oroville Tobacco - This one is oh so good. And I cannot think of a thing like it. A floor-polish wood scent with a natural, raw tobacco note. I am thinking of the yummy floor wax the British National Trust uses, which contains beeswax and orange oil. Medicinal in a very evocative way. Wearable? I really don't know. 8.25 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Ibitra - Another glorious beauty... at first. A metallic, sumptuous Amouage Gold Woman smell-alike. But rockier, with discernible notes competing for attention. And ultimately drying down to nothing but vanilla and powder. All the magic was gone in a mere hour. Young perfumery student attempts to forge Amouage Gold Woman, and fails. 7 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Shingl - Well, I had shingles. Twice. And I never want to relive that nightmare, but I smelled it anyway. Oh GOD!! It's truly a an olfactory ode to the agony of shingles! It's utterly intolerable! A horrifyingly-medicinal cherry liqueur scent, like the more vile cough syrups I have had. Oh wait! Does this actually CURE shingles? Then it's worth the money! 1 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Modoc - A retro-vibe India-inspired santal scent, of nice quality. If I wanted a santal fragrance and this cost under 80USD, I'd choose it. 7 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Esquel - Have you ever smelled vintage Bal a Versailles? Xerjoff hopes you haven't. Well, it's good anyway... just like it used tobe. A very studious replica. 8 out of 10.

Shooting Stars Oesel - A really good masculine here. A galbanum-rich, soapy chypre, very much like Creed's Erolfa. But this time, the Xerjoff is the smoother, the more wearable and the more artful. I am inclined to compare it to Eau Illuminee from Delrae, which is another improved Erolfa. They are quite competitive, the Xerjoff winning by a hair, due to ingredient quality. But the Delrae is much cheaper. 8 out of 10.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Thanks for the reviews Hillaire. I agree quite closely with your overall breakdown of the house, although I'd give a few of the scents a price justification of a D - the more unique offerings, of course.

There were a few comparisons you made that just baffled me, though.

Oesel like Erolfa? I just don't get that at all. To me, the sweet vanilla, light woods (cedar, mostly), orange blossom, jasmine and other floral notes over a semi-fougere base leaves Oesel smelling almost *exactly* like Fleur du Male. It tones down that damned synthetic cedar that is featured fairly prominently in FdM (that same nasty cedar/neroli accord that is in Rochas Lui, ugh), and overall smells more refined and luxurious, but other than that, it shares about 95% of its DNA with Fleur du Male.

Also, while I can see the comparison between Mephisto and Ciel Man, I think a closer comparsion is Mephisto and Silver Mountain Water. They both feature that smooth, cold, "freezer air" smooth musky note, and share a lot of other elements of composition. I do agree, however, that out of the two Ciel Man is the more interesting composition.

You should retest IriSSs, too. You're either anosmic to an ingredient or were suffering some pretty bad olfactory fatigue. While the longevity on it is not excellent, it definitely lasts a good 6 hours or more.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Hillaire, yours seem to be some of the most critical (but also detailed) assessments of this line. (Mind you, I cannot have a different opinion, didn't sample anything from the line yet!)

I am just curious about two things: I noticed, beyond the general criticism, you grading the ingredients with an A. Are these ingredients different/"expensive-smelling"/better only than designer fragrances or also than other niche houses - Amouage, Creed - with reputation for expensive ingredients?

How "natural" do they smell to you?

If these fragrances would have cost less, would your reviews have been less critical?

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I'm not Hillaire, but I'll take a stab at answering that with the idea that the more opinions you get, the better:

How natural do these smell? Very. At first, that is. Kobe starts with one of the most natural orange/petitgrain/orange blossom accords I've ever come across, making even Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Pour Le Jeune Homme smell, if not synthetic, relatively 'cheap' in comparison. IriSSs features a very nice orris butter (paired with its old acquaintance, carrot seed) note. They almost all start out smelling very very natural. I'd say they smell as natural as the best Creeds and in a sense 'purer' than many Amouage, who are often very densely blended. Actually, in many ways they smell more natural than Amouage and even the best of Creed, but, there is a problem that I've found with many of them.

I don't feel the 'naturalness' extends into the base very well, and almost across the board I felt a sharp, divisive transitional point between a natural opening and the synthetic framework that supported them. Unfortunately, the framework is (often) not fleshed out enough, which makes that transition very noticeable, bumpy, and consequently - to my nose - made the often nice (read: pleasant and decent) bases actually seem far less competent than they actually were. In other words, the openings set the bar too high for the following act.

It is in this way that I feel that both Creed and Amouage come across as being more coherent and subsequently 'better' in regards to composition. Creed does the natural, refined, british thing better than anyone. Silver Mountain Water, for instance, has more uniformity in its quality than does the very similar Mefisto by Xerjoff, even if Mefisto actually does smell far more natural for the first 1/3 of its duration. So too with the Amouage's. Many of them are loaded up with synthetics, and really only use the naturals to flesh out the synthetic skeleton. No different in theory than the Xerjoff approach, except that Amouage tends to flesh out every element of the skeleton from opening to base, and is careful not to make the opening far exceed the base in terms of quality and feel.

I don't know if this is because Xerjoff top-loaded the fragrances so they'd sell based on amazing initial impressions, but I think it might be, especially given their penchant for making scents "similar but better" than many other well known, popular scents.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

[QUOTE=Hillaire;1889126]I had the delightful opportunity to smell the Xerjoff samples that are currently circulating. I feel so grateful to have gotten a chance to get to know these cost-prohibitive scents personally and privately. Thank you, cello! After me, it will go to Un profumo affetuoso.

/QUOTE]

Dear Hillaire,
your reviews are simply great and I love the fact that you draw comparisons to other scents/houses -
I can't wait to smell the samples myself!
Saw some of the attractive bottles in Italy recently, but have not yet come across them in Germany where I live (only spotted them ONLINE at Aus Liebe zum Duft. de).

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I should say that it sounds like I really came down on the Xerjoffs in my last post, but quality-wise, I think they are up there with the best of the best. Their formulas are a bit safe and sometimes a bit derivative, and the bases were, as I mentioned, often not good enough in the sense that a seamless transition from top to bottom was possible, but all of that being said, Xerjoff's worst is better than many houses best.

I think too, that a lot of it will come down to stylistic preferences. I really love the dense and thick style of Amouage's blending because they do it with such finesse (in contrast I find Montale's dense and thick blending nauseating because of its lack of finesse). Some really like the Creed approach while others are just as happy or happier with cheaper alternatives that may project more or last longer. Who am I to say either of them are wrong? The Xerjoffs do have a house style and if you love it, you'll likely find a lot of FBW fragrances in their lineup. If you don't love it, or even only just like it, as I do, you may find yourself thinking a bottle or two would be nice but never be able to justify the prices.

I think that's the only other thing that I can say against them. Often times at that price point, people want the ultimate in luxury - something I think Amouage realizes and capitalizes on well (which is why they were wise to drop Arcus and Cirrus from their lineup!). A lot of the Xerjoffs are less bombastic and ostentatious by design. There's nothing wrong with that at all, but I think many here would balk at paying $350 for a "like a designer but better" type of scent. It's just the nature of the beast, I guess. It's like those black metal bands that get shunned for actually having a top notch production rather than recording in the middle of a moonlit forest with an old four track they found at a pawn store. Of course I guess the difference is, Xerjoff IS charging a lot more for their product. Maybe a better analogy would be this: Would you pay $120 for a blu-ray disc, for a movie that can also be found on DVD? for $20 (given that Xerjoff is about 6 times the price of most designers). For some, the picture quality and sound quality is worth it. For others, it isn't. And others would if they could but just can't afford it. Xerjoff is a blu-ray disc in a DVD economy.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Don't mean to clutter the forum with "me too" posts, but yet another good one, Sculpture.

Don't worry about being unfair, "Xerjoff's worst is better than many houses best"... "quality-wise, I think they are up there with the best of the best" is more than enough of an incentive for people interested in fine fragrances to give it a fair and unbiased try.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

I should say that it sounds like I really came down on the Xerjoffs in my last post, but quality-wise, I think they are up there with the best of the best. Their formulas are a bit safe and sometimes a bit derivative, and the bases were, as I mentioned, often not good enough in the sense that a seamless transition from top to bottom was possible, but all of that being said, Xerjoff's worst is better than many houses best.

I think too, that a lot of it will come down to stylistic preferences. I really love the dense and thick style of Amouage's blending because they do it with such finesse (in contrast I find Montale's dense and thick blending nauseating because of its lack of finesse). Some really like the Creed approach while others are just as happy or happier with cheaper alternatives that may project more or last longer. Who am I to say either of them are wrong? The Xerjoffs do have a house style and if you love it, you'll likely find a lot of FBW fragrances in their lineup. If you don't love it, or even only just like it, as I do, you may find yourself thinking a bottle or two would be nice but never be able to justify the prices.

I think that's the only other thing that I can say against them. Often times at that price point, people want the ultimate in luxury - something I think Amouage realizes and capitalizes on well (which is why they were wise to drop Arcus and Cirrus from their lineup!). A lot of the Xerjoffs are less bombastic and ostentatious by design. There's nothing wrong with that at all, but I think many here would balk at paying $350 for a "like a designer but better" type of scent. It's just the nature of the beast, I guess. It's like those black metal bands that get shunned for actually having a top notch production rather than recording in the middle of a moonlit forest with an old four track they found at a pawn store. Of course I guess the difference is, Xerjoff IS charging a lot more for their product. Maybe a better analogy would be this: Would you pay $120 for a blu-ray disc, for a movie that can also be found on DVD? for $20 (given that Xerjoff is about 6 times the price of most designers). For some, the picture quality and sound quality is worth it. For others, it isn't. And others would if they could but just can't afford it. Xerjoff is a blu-ray disc in a DVD economy.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I, too cannot think of a better qualification than the above two from Sculpture. I wish I had said it all so diplomatically, as apparently I came off pretty harsh.

To answer your question, Addict, if Xerjoff fragrances cost say... what Nicolai scents cost, and came in unpretentious packaging, I'd tout (and likely recommend it) it as an 'preisswert', lovely, very natural, and classics-honoring, if-unoriginal house. I'd no doubt warn about the drydowns coming on too quickly and being rather dull, though.

That's kind of why I 'broke down' my assessment at the end of my 'reviews'. I wanted to emphasize the fine ingredients really stood out and that the scents were also mostly quite nice. I don't even have a huge problem with the emulation of some older, fine scents. Especially the ones that are discontinued. But for the price tag, I simply want much more...the sort of uniqueness and depth and smoothness I perceive from most of the Amouage line.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Thanks, Hillaire, I guess I have to smell them for myself... ( :

I loved your Homage review... but you don't want to offer us a Tribute one... )-:
:
While a relative beginner to Amouage, the only one I really liked so far was Homage... I know I am not original about it, but I really think they hit the pot there... and you describe it well...

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Originally Posted by Addict

Thanks, Hillaire, I guess I have to smell them for myself... ( :

I loved your Homage review... but you don't want to offer us a Tribute one... )-:
:
While a relative beginner to Amouage, the only one I really liked so far was Homage... I know I am not original about it, but I really think they hit the pot there... and you describe it well...

as for the "regular" EdP line... meh...

Thanks!
I couldn't write one for Tribute then, as the Tribute scent was not added until very recently; it's on my agenda!

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Has anybody tested the "Verona 010" fragrance by XerJoff. I love gourmand fragrances and the notes sound delicious! But unfortunately there are no samples available and it is limited. Can anyone describe the fragrance? Please let me know if the jasmine in Verona 010 is too animalic, because I don't like animalic jasmine in perfumes

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

Originally Posted by Sasuke

Has anybody tested the "Verona 010" fragrance by XerJoff. I love gourmand fragrances and the notes sound delicious! But unfortunately there are no samples available and it is limited. Can anyone describe the fragrance? Please let me know if the jasmine in Verona 010 is too animalic, because I don't like animalic jasmine in perfumes

Verona 101 is a very nice scent. If you like gourmand than this is for you. It has the vanilla and burnt caramel notes but also has this wonderful blood orange note that cuts the sweetness. Also there is an almond and licorice blend that is really great. It also lasts a very long time. The jasmine is not animalic at all and just provides a nice floral counterpart to the scent. Its very subtle jasmine.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I am testing some Xerjoff's these days and I am mightily impressed by the quality of these fragrances... I also find them more original than some of our more distinguished and nose-savvy BaseNoters. Overall an extremely high quality house which has something to say and much to offer.

Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

I gave Dhofar another wearing the other day and was thoroughly enjoying it - despite it's fairly prominent carnation note (which I typically dislike). About 10 hours later I went to lay down with my girlfriend and she asked me if I had gotten a new deodorant as it was rather strong. Nope, still wearing the same unscented deodorant as always. It was the Dhofar.

After she made that comment I couldn't escape the association - the drydown of Dhofar does kind of smell like "generic men's deodorant" with even a hit of the armpit aroma (perhaps provided by the spikenard/jatamansi, an oil that definitely has a bit of funk going on). It's not bad, not at all, but it smells so close to that generic deodorant aroma that it was a bit discomforting. It's a shame as I really love the earlier phases of the scent.