Umgeni Valley is a relatively new climbing venue situated in the sleepy town of Howick, 20mins North along the highway from Pietermaritzburg. Predominately a single-pitch Sports climbing venue with a few high quality trad lines found amongst the bolts (including the world famous ‘Crack Addiction’ and the X-rated ‘Hard Man’)
The crag faces South-East looking over the valley to its sister crag at Hilton and down towards Albert Falls Dam. A great place for hot summer’s days as the majority of routes are out of the sun and shaded by the tall mist-belt forest surrounds.
Grades are on the higher side with the majority of bolted lines being in the low to high twenties although there are a handful of teen grades.

ACCESS

Entry to this WESSA run reserve is via the office at the main entrance off the Karkloof road. Climbers must sign a register, pay a small fee and take a permit/receipt with them as proof of valid entry.
The crag is accessed either along the higher Dwarves Dawdle trail which drops down into the valley, or the lower trail that leads along the base of the crag. The majority of routes are found up-valley (away from Albert Falls Dam) of the wooden staircase joining the higher and lower trail. There have also been several new routes bolted down-valley (towards Albert Falls dam) of the staircase.
Ask for a trail map at reception which will help with general orienteering and location of the ‘wooden staircase’.
Contact details, information, maps and directions can be found at: http://wessa.org.za/regions/kzn/kzn-environmental-education-centres/umgeni-valley.htm

Basic route descriptions can be found below or simply purchase a copy of “A Climbers Guide to Natal Rock” by Roger Nattrass which has all a climber needs to know about this venue.