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Remember the ’90s? The decade when Lorena Bobbitt cut her husband’s penis off with a knife, authorities stripped Milli Vanilli of its Grammy for lip-synching “Girl You Know It’s True,” and everyone tipped back oaky Aussie Chardonnay like it was going out of style? Well thankfully, it did.

Most of us tired of all those crazy-rich Chardonnays and began longing for leaner, crisper styles of white wine. The pendulum swung. And now Pinot Grigio is ragingly popular for its refreshingly unoaked, neutral character and beam of mouth-watering acidity.

Many white wine enthusiasts have sworn off Chardonnay altogether after opening one too many bottles of disappointment. Heard of the ABC set? It’s an actual term for those who insist on anything but Chardonnay.

But if you think you’re part of the ABC set, maybe reconsider. Because that grape variety offers broad range of styles — from fat and woody to lean and clean. So many that I’d argue it’s impossible for a white wine drinker to dislike all Chardonnay. Especially since Chardonnay makes the most legendary white wines in the world that command stratospheric prices.

So the question is, how do you avoid the clumsy, overoaked, off-balance Chardonnays? Here are three crisp styles to point you in the right direction.

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Blanc de Blancs

Blanc de Blancs is sparkling Chardonnay made by the Champagne method, meaning it undergoes a second fermentation in bottle. Subtle yeasty-biscuity notes result, intermingling with the bright citric fruit. And the more premium the bottle, the more complexity and finesse it can offer. In fact, one of the top Champagnes in the world, Salon, is a Blanc de Blancs that sells for hundreds of dollars per bottle, if you can get your hands on it. It’s made in minuscule amounts and coveted by connoisseurs.

Chablis

The French have been growing Chardonnay in the Chablis region since the 12th century, so they clearly have a handle on how it’s done and tease great purity from the fruit. Chablis is the quintessential unwooded Chardonnay that’s notoriously neutral-tasting, with hallmark notes of salt, wet stones, and a distinctive chalky finish. It’s a great option for those who like a bit of zip, nerve and tension in their wine.

Cool-climate Chardonnay

If you enjoy crisp white wine but find Chablis a bit austere, you might prefer cool-climate Chardonnay from elsewhere. Cool climates preserve acidity in the grapes, keeping the wine tart while balancing any oak if and when it’s used. Ontario, Northern France, Oregon, and New Zealand are obviously cooler wine regions, but hot areas have chillier spots, too, such as higher-altitude and coastal vineyards. If this intrigues you, zip to Niagara July 22-24 for the 6th annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C). You’ll be able to taste 95 Chardonnays from all over the world there and find some new favourites.

One last trick

If you’re considering a bottle of Chardonnay and want to know what it’s like before you buy it, download Vivino — the current leader in label-scanning apps. Vivino lets you scan any wine label with your phone and see its ratings, reviews and pricing details in seconds flat. It’s faster than a Google search, free to download, and works very well.

Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestselling wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com .

Made from pure Chardonnay, this taut sparkling wine offers a cool, crisp, linear attack of vivid fruit balanced by wispy strokes of lemon blossom and freshly rolled pastry. Aromatic and delicate with great poise and tiny, persistent bubbles. Pour it with oysters and be happy.

This shining example of Chablis — tight and bright with a cool citric centre laced with salt and chiseled wet stones — is pure and polished, finishing with resonant grapefruit oil and a slightly chalky texture. A classic and stern style of Chablis. Pour it with any fish dish.

Unlike more electric styles of unwooded Chardonnay, this version is oily and rich with a citrus and white mushroom character that tapers to a long bitter lime finish. Jean-Pierre Colas, the French winemaker who made this Chardonnay, describes it as “a classic Macon from France. It’s like an Old World wine from the New World.” I could not have agreed more as we drank it together with a plate of charcuterie and cheese. Delicious.

Hailing from the cool microclimate of Margaret River in Western Australia, this wine is a friendly reminder that Aussies can and do make elegant, sophisticated expressions of Chardonnay. White peach aromas give way to a lean lick of creamy-tart lemon meringue pie laced with subtle notes of vanilla, pistachio nuts and salted caramel that lingers on the finish.

Though it might be natural to look to France for a finely French-oaked Chardonnay, you don’t have to. This legendary Chardonnay shows how French oak can add character without masking the fruit itself. Both intense and subtle, this masterful white starts with the scent of warm apple pie that leads to a rich, plunging attack, the entry is silky and articulate, insinuating pineapple, apple, flint, hazelnut, pecan, brioche and cream. Lovely stuff.

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