From the age of 8 until 16 I played rugby league and union at school and on weekends.

I was ok at it, enough to get selected in the St. George rep team, but when I discovered surfing I was hooked.

I remember playing a guy from Saints as a kid. He wore those tight hibiscus panelled Quickies as footy shorts. 5/8. One if the best footy players I'd played against or seen. Pretty sure he sold his soul to the devil of surfing. Was that you Cranked?

Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

From the age of 8 until 16 I played rugby league and union at school and on weekends.

I was ok at it, enough to get selected in the St. George rep team, but when I discovered surfing I was hooked.

I remember playing a guy from Saints as a kid. He wore those tight hibiscus panelled Quickies as footy shorts. 5/8. One if the best footy players I'd played against or seen. Pretty sure he sold his soul to the devil of surfing. Was that you Cranked?

Chest to shoulder high rights walling up all the way to the beach. Strong cross-shore wind was a pain in the arse, but also helped hold the face up. Fun as it bowled up on the inside bank.

Surfed the mini mal, which was great and made light work of it. Cutbacks into the bowl then run the trim line. Few out there on shortboards, and all bar one were struggling to maintain drive with the wind blowing square on.

Warm water. Overall pleasantness score 6/10.

steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

BA wrote:Dropped a frozen 20kg dog on it. The toe is starting to look like Peter Duttons head.

Had a swim and run at Bondi. Jeesus, since they've bulldozed the sand into the water the shore break is deadly. Even in the flags. In calf deep water the swell forms two waves...back one twice as big as the front runner. As it hits the sand it pitches over the first wave and makes the first wave suck out. Some accidents are going to happen. Epic throttlings down the beach as kooks trim into death pits.