This week we are back in Costco Corner, expanded edition, searching for those paradoxical low-cost, high-quality wines that occupy the crowded Costco aisles. My faithful tasting team endeavors on an expedition south to New Zealand, the land of Kiwis (fowl, fruit, human), rugby and well-crafted vinous beverages.

Best of all? New Zealand wines do not break the bank. Costco makes certain of it. So pour yourself a glass of plonk and let the Fellowship of the Vine set its course due south. The journey to Mordor must inevitably pass through wine country. As it should.

Enter Costco, the welcomed paradox of low cost and high quality that has Hawaii residents scrambling for a cart at every operating hour of the Costco day. When is the best time to traverse Costco’s fabled value-packed aisles? I have no idea; morning and night, weekdays and weekends, it always appears an endless sea of frantic slapdashery. Fight the bevy of busy patrons, however, and you can be rewarded with excellent value, everyday wines.

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