Perennial notice: Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Description

I don't remember any real crux, just thoughtful laybacking and stemming. It is a pretty fun warm-up. It is still a little dirty, but if you feel around, you'll find plenty of cleaned jugs....

That big, fragile flake left of the 5th bolt was cleaned off today with the slightest tug and exploded below thanks to Dave. Yeow! There are still a couple of big, mobile chunks just below the anchor that could take out a belayer. Beware.
Jul 22, 2010

My partner trundled the boulders near the anchor today. It's still got lichen in some of the places you need to smear, but it's getting cleaner and is worth getting on. It's good to have a few warmups before sending Prince of Thieves.
Aug 12, 2010

I'm just barely giving this two stars, and that's really only for the "boulder problem" to the first bolt. We also didn't notice any loose rock, and the moves between the 5th and 6th bolt were thought provoking. Certainly merits more than a star, but it wasn't particularly memorable. Worth doing if you're in the area and nobody's on it.

All that said, it's probably a pretty good first 5.10 lead.
Jun 7, 2014

My climbing partner and I really enjoyed this route, and it seems to be cleaning up nicely over time. The crux was 5th through the 6th bolt and the sequences, and holds were fun. Two stars for me.
Aug 30, 2017