Fastcap has a new product out called zero clearance tape for miter saws. It works in the same manner as a zero clearance insert on a table saw. It's a hard PVC and self sticks.

I had to trim about 3/16 off one side to get it to fit. Apparently the Kapex is a little narrower than most miter saws. Comes in a package with 5 tapes.

It was designed to prevent tear out on the back side of the board but in my case I have also noticed it really makes laser alignment easy and keeps the small cut offs from falling down in the slot which drives me crazy.

It might end up helping dust collection but haven't used it enough to find out. Also haven't tilted the blade either as I have only been making 90 cuts. I would assume that it will widen the opening and reduce performance.

But if you are making straight cuts and getting tear out this definitively helps. I was cutting 1/4" Birch plywood yesterday and the improvement was huge.

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Fastcap has a new product out called zero clearance tape for miter saws. It works in the same manner as a zero clearance insert on a table saw. It's a hard PVC and self sticks.

I had to trim about 3/16 off one side to get it to fit. Apparently the Kapex is a little narrower than most miter saws. Comes in a package with 5 tapes.

It was designed to prevent tear out on the back side of the board but in my case I have also noticed it really makes laser alignment easy and keeps the small cut offs from falling down in the slot which drives me crazy.

It might end up helping dust collection but haven't used it enough to find out. Also haven't tilted the blade either as I have only been making 90 cuts. I would assume that it will widen the opening and reduce performance.

But if you are making straight cuts and getting tear out this definitively helps. I was cutting 1/4" Birch plywood yesterday and the improvement was huge.

Looks good. I am too lazy to build one on my own. This seems to be an easy solution.

I use 1/8" tempered Masonite for the bottom and backing. I cut 3" strips 8' long and clip them to my fence. After they wear I just shift them over towards the blade. My sliding chopsaw does not have a laser, so an added advantage is I know exactly where the cut will be and if I need to sneak up I can see the offset in the gap. I use 1/4" in the base and set the depth so that the blade just cuts off at the rear, that way it stays in one piece.

I bought the Betterley one in the UK from the Betterly Importer, it cost £20 plus vat and shipping, total cost was £34 uk ($50) big increase from the US price of $20.

Having said that, it is really well made and I can recommend it. Betterly have included a good method of adjusting the insert so it fits flush with the bed of the saw, I suspect this is not the case with the tape version as it likely sits slightly proud (just my impression though I haven't actually used one).

My Betterly zero clearance plate works great, but I put the original Kapex plate back in if I am doing beveled cuts. I swap out throat plates on my Sawstop as well. One for 90 degree cuts and one for cuts with the saw blade tilted. The beveled cuts open up the slot so ot is no longer zero clearance.

Why do you need zero clearance insert for a miter saw table? Saw teeth entering the material from that directions. If anything you'd want ZCI on top and back, not on the bottom. In table saw terms it's like placing ZCI on top of the stock.

Why do you need zero clearance insert for a miter saw table? Saw teeth entering the material from that directions. If anything you'd want ZCI on top and back, not on the bottom. In table saw terms it's like placing ZCI on top of the stock.

I think this is one of those "if you have to ask you'll never know" moments.