FOOD

FOOD; Having Their Day: From Plain Peaches to Dessert Stars

By MOIRA HODGSON

Published: August 6, 2000

AS the author George Du Maurier wrote, ''An apple is an excellent thing -- until you have tried a peach.'' Indeed, biting into a juicy, ripe peach is one of the great treats of summer. So is eating a cooked peach with vanilla ice cream.

I like to poach peaches and serve them on scoops of ice cream like a sundae, topped with raspberry sauce. I love a peach pie, but I am also very fond of peach tart, glazed with red currant jelly with ice cream on the side.

Jacques Torres, the pastry chef at Le Cirque 2000, studs peaches with slivered almonds and pistachios and roasts them in the oven (the recipe below is adapted from his book ''Dessert Circus'' (William Morrow). This dish is not only delicious but also easy to make -- and especially fun to do with children who enjoy creating faces or other designs on the peaches with the nuts.

Because peaches go so well with vanilla, these recipes call for vanilla sugar. To make this, simply store a vanilla bean in a jar of granulated sugar. The sugar will take on its flavor and keep indefinitely.

Whole Roasted Peaches, Almonds and Pistachios

Total time: 30 minutes

1/2 cup slivered pistachios

1/2 cup blanched almonds

8 peaches

1 1/2 cups vanilla sugar

1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Press the slivered pistachios and almonds into the peaches. The skin of the peach will help hold the nuts in place. They should be spaced about a fourth of an inch apart.

2. Sprinkle half of the vanilla sugar evenly over the bottom of 9-by-13-inch baking pan (a heavy copper pan distributes the heat most evenly). Put the peaches on top of the sugar and brush them liberally with the melted butter. Sprinkle with remaining sugar. This will give the peaches a nice crust when baked. Pour three-fourths of a cup of water into the bottom of the pan.

3. Put the pan in the oven and roast the peaches for 10 to 15 minutes. The roasting time will vary according to the ripeness of the peaches. As the peaches roast, you should baste them every five minutes or so with their juices. They are ready when they are slightly brown on top and can be pierced easily with the tip of a paring knife.

4. Put the peaches on a platter. Strain the juices through a sieve into a bowl. If you are serving adults, you might strain a little vodka into the juice to give the sauce a little pizzazz. Pour the sauce over the peaches and serve immediately, Vanilla ice cream is an excellent accompaniment.

Yield: 8 servings.

Peaches With Ice Cream And Raspberry Sauce

Total time: 30 minutes

8 ripe peaches

1/2 cup vanilla sugar

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 pint fresh raspberries (or 1 10-ounce package frozen)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Vanilla ice cream

Sprigs of mint to garnish.

1. Bring enough water to cover the peaches to a boil in a large sauce pan. Drop the peaches in and simmer them for two to three minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and slip off skins. Using a sharp knife, cut the peaches in half along the indentation mark. Remove pits.

2. Put the peach halves in a saucepan with the sugar and wine. Simmer for about five minutes, depending on ripeness. Remove them from the juices and put them in a bowl.

3. Puree the raspberries in a blender. Add the sugar a tablespoon at a time, blending it in. Add the lemon juice and blend. Taste and add more sugar as needed. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve.

4. To serve, put a scoop (or two) of ice cream in a sundae glass or small bowl. Top with a peach half, sliced side down, and pour on some of the raspberry sauce. Top with a sprig of mint and serve.

Yield: 8 servings.

Peach Tart

Total time: 30 minutes

8 peaches

3 tablespoons vanilla sugar

2 tablespoons red currant jelly

1/2 cup water

1 fully cooked 10- to 11-inch shortcrust-pastry pie shell

Vanilla ice cream or creme fraiche.

1. Bring enough water to cover the peaches to a boil in a large saucepan. Drop the peaches in and simmer them for two to three minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and slip off their skins.

2. With a sharp knife, cut the peaches in half along the indentation mark. Remove the pits. Cut each half into three slices.

3. Combine the sugar, jelly and water in a shallow pan. Bring to a boil, add the peaches and poach for about five minutes, depending on how ripe the peaches are. Remove them from the juices with a slotted spoon and set them aside.

4. Pour the poaching liquid into a small saucepan and reduce the liquid over medium heat until you have a thick glaze. Spread a thin layer of warm glaze over the pastry shell, top with the peaches and coat with the remaining glaze. Do not refrigerate. Serve with vanilla ice cream or creme fraiche.