Tsunami

A classic alpine ice route established in May 2011: three very alpine like pitches with thin ice and scrappy mixed climbing led to another three three sustained ice pitches and the top of the seracs. The route finishes on the flat glacial bench from they abseiled back down the route.

ACCESS

Tsunami lies to the right of the iconic Riptide.

ROUTE

The first two pitches trend first right, then back left, on steep snow and low-angled rock, to a snowfield. On the first ascent the ice did not come all the way down to the snow, and was accessed by climbing a loose but well-protected crack system on the left. The final three pitches climb gradually thickening ice to - and through - the serac barrier. The serac capping the route appears to be benign, but one never knows with seracs.

DESCENT

Rappel the route from ice and rock anchors. The lower traverses are avoided by rappelling straight down a steep, rocky depression.

GEAR

Half a set of nuts, a few pitons, cams to #2 Camalot, and ten or so screws of all lengths.