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Thursday, December 20, 2012

It's been hard to readjust to Mozambique after spending nearly three weeks of travel South Africa. From the moment we arrived in Cape Town, we were surrounded by luxury- hot showers, clean linen, restaurants, grocery stores, and our own personal vehicle (a Hyundai with a manual transmission and a stick shift on the left). South Africa, it seems, is a world apart from its southern African neighbors.

Our trip lasted 19 days and spanned the length of the country, from east to west. From the beaches and mountains of breezy Cape Town, to the vast, scrubby wilderness of Kruger National Park, we drove more than 2,500 miles, took more than 1,500 photos, and sampled only a handful of destinations in this diverse and sprawling country. What follows is a sampling of our sample- a glimpse into bountiful, beautiful, charming South Africa.

Founded in 1652 by the Dutch East India Trading Company, Cape Town was first used as a base to provide supplies for Dutch ships traveling to Eastern Africa, India, and the Far East. Nowadays, it is the second most populous city in South Africa and the leading tourist destination in the country. The city is famous for its good climate, natural setting, well-developed infrastructure. The bulk of the city (known as the City Bowl) sits beneath the massive backdrop of Table Mountain, which is protected by Table Mountain National Park. To the south lies Cape Point, the headland of the dramatic Cape peninsula. Both areas lie within the Cape Floral Kingdom, which is home to more than 9,000 species of vascular plants and is regarded as a biodiversity hotspot.

Fun Fact

There are more indigenous plant species on Table Mountain than in the whole of the British Isles.

Next TimeVisit Lion's Head Mountain: Located next door to Table Mountain, the summit of Lion's Head can be reached by the use of several chains and ladders. This hike is especially popular during the full moon.

Our base, "The Backpack," framed by Table Mountain

The bustling harbor at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront (with a dark and foggy Table Mountain in the background)

Playing with the fish at the Two Oceans Aquarium

One of three kelp forest exhibits in the world- at Two Oceans Aquarium

Parking at the base of Table Mountain- preparing to hike

Beautiful summer blooms on the slopes of Table Mountain (with Lion's Head in the distance)

Jamie and Drew look out across Cape Town (the City Bowl)

Dan on Table Mountain

Flowers on Table Mountain

Upwards through Platteklip Gorge

Dan at the top of Table Mountain (overlooking the Atlantic Ocean)

Jame and Drew at the top of Table Mountain

Return via Cable Car

Jamie and Drew at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden (at the foot of Table Mountain)

Sunset at Signal Hill (shared with a few other parties, as well)

Fish on the Rocks: Fish and chips on the way to Cape Point

African penguins at Simon's Town

Dramatic views from the Cape Peninsula

Cape Point Starfish

While we inspect the tide pools near Cape Point, a baboon inspects our car.
At one point, he even tried the door handle!

Dan at Cape Point

Clumps of flowers at the Point

Flowers at the Point

Hermanus, Western Cape

Second stop: Hermanus

Hermanus

Originally called Hermanuspietersfontein, Hermanus is a quiet coastal town located just 70 miles to the east of Cape Town. The town is known for its spectacular whale watching, 8 mile cliff walk, and access to great white shark cage diving. Though the weather will occasionally preclude shark dive excursions, a number of nearby wineries offer tours and tastings, providing a nice alternative.

Fun Fact

Hermanus is home to the world's only "Whale Crier"- a harbor employee and town feature since 1992- who marches the length of the cliff walk with a kelp horn and a sandwich board filled with recent sightings and other pertinent whale information.

FavoritesWhale sightings! Southern rights whales play along the coast from June until DecemberHalf-price cocktails and free use of binoculars at Coco's (plus second-floor balcony views of the water)

Blue crane, lake, and pagoda in the largest single free-flight aviary in the world

Tsitsikamma National Park, Eastern Cape

Third Stop: Tsitsikamma National Park

Tsitsikamma National Park and Storm's River Mouth

Just a few kilometers wide, Tsitsikamma National Park stretches for more than 80km along the southern coastline of South Africa. It is home to steep cliffs, winding paths, and dangerous, crashing surf. It is also home to the five-day Otter Trail (on which reservations should be made several months in advance). Located at the far eastern end of the park, Storm's River Mouth is a rest camp that offers several hikes and camping along the sea.

Fun FactJust west of Tsitsikamma National Park is Bloukrans Bridge, location of the world's highest bungee jump (709 feet)

FavoritesWatching the sunrise, sunset, and crashing waves from our camp on the shoreline

Crossing the Suspension Bridge, a three-part hanging bridge that spans the rough water at the mouth of the Storms RiverNext TimeSet time aside for the 5 day, 4 night Otter Trail-- South Africa's most popular hike. Winding, wild, and unspoiled, this hike only allows 12 people at a time on any given section of the trail.

Camping along the shoreline in Tsitsikamma National Park

Camping in Tsitsikamma

Two of three hanging bridges above the river mouth

Lovely bridges at Tsitsikamma

Lovely flowers at Tsitsikamma

Drakensberg Mountains - Royal Natal - Lesotho

Fourth Stop- The Drakensberg Mountains

The Mountains

Rising to more than 11,000 feet in altitude, the Drakensberg Mountains are the highest mountains in southern Africa. Three large parks-- Southern Drakensburg, Central Drakensburg, and Royal Natal National Park-- encompass the mountain range along the border between South Africa and Lesotho.

Royal Natal National Park

Royal Natal National Park exists as a series of gorges, hills, and rivers in the basin below the northern peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains. The most striking feature of this park is the backdrop-- the Amphitheatre cliff face rises 4,000 feet above the valley floor and towers more than three miles wide.

Lesotho

Pronounced (Leh-su-tu), this country is a landlocked enclave located entirely within the country of South Africa. The entire country is situated at altitude, and the country's lowest point (1,400 meters) is the highest in the world. Most of the population of Lesotho identify themselves as Basotho and speak the main language of Sesotho. The country regularly receives snowfall in the wintertime, with some of the higher elevations receiving snowfall throughout the year.

Fun Facts

The Drakensberg Mountains protect more than 35,000 San (Bushmen) works of art.

Royal Natal National Park is home to Tugela Falls, the second-highest waterfall in the world.

There is a growing campaign within Lesotho that seeks to see the Kingdom of Lesotho reabsorbed by the Republic of South Africa.

San (Bushmen) paintings. Hard to decipher, but it is possible to make out the eland on the right,
small dancing figures on the far right, and thin, towering humanoids on the far left.

Our Lesotho tour bus

Houses and beautiful scenery-- Lesotho

Lesotho kids

Hiking in Royal Natal National Park (Tugela Gorge)

Hiking in Royal Natal National Park (Tugela Gorge)

Fresh flowers in the rain (Royal Natal National Park)

Fresh flowers in the rain (Royal Natal National Park)

Kruger National Park

Final Stop: Kruger National Park

KrugerAt over 7,500 square miles, Kruger National Park ranks amongst the largest National Parks in the world. With 147 species of large mammals (more than any other African game reserve), Kruger is one of the premier Safari destinations in all of Africa.

Important FactsKruger's elephant population is getting so large (more than 12,000 individuals and growing at a rate of 7% per year) that the elephants are quickly outgrowing their ecosystem. Debate over culling is still raging strong, but most experts seem to agree that a mass culling will be necessary to maintain the health of the park. Culling was standard practice from 1967-1994.

Kruger has over 48 metric tons of ivory in storage. Profits from ivory sales are used to help combat poaching activity in the park.

Rhino poaching is on the rise. A poaching crisis in South Africa has seen 633 white rhinos killed in the year 2012. The number of rhino killed has skyrocketed in recent years, jumping from 333 in 2010, to 448 in 2011, to the current count of 633.

FavoritesTaking an early morning drive with a ranger (3:15AM start!). Nobody else had booked this drive, so we had the vehicle all to ourselves!

Restaurant and Observation Deck at Lower Sabie Rest Camp. Elephants, wildebeests, zebras,
hippos, and crocodiles are all common visitors to the area.

Our rental car, packed to the brim

Elephants crossing the roadway

Buffalo stare down the car as we drive slowly through the herd

Early morning hippo tracks!

A troop of baboons wander slowly down the road

Zebra, warthogs, and baboons

Return to Johannesburg - Bus to Maputo

End of Adventure!

After several long and bouncy bus rides, we finally made it back to our house in Zobue. We are cheerfully (or at least stoically) readjusting to bugs, bucket baths, and the smiling, sticky faces of the under-10 crowd. It's good to be home! We'll be here for a few days before striking out again for the holidays.

Welcome!

Bem-Vindo a Mozambique!

My name is Lisa Spencer. I am a 25-year-old Peace Corps Volunteer living in Portuguese-speaking Mozambique. My husband and I teach eighth-grade English and math, in addition to community computer classes. We live in a little yellow house surrounded by thirty neighbors, fifty chickens, twenty dogs, and a few pigs. We have a puppy named Bwino.

Welcome to a world of bucket baths, outdoor markets, and gaping pit latrines.