Roland Mouret / Fall 2012 RTW

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It’s difficult to see from home since runway photos are usually only shot from one direction, but the backs of so many clothes this season either a) look like a whole different type of clothing or b) are more worked and detailed than the front. This adds a certain depth to a collection, but as it doesn’t come across in pictures, let’s talk about it—Roland Mouret’s approach makes for a nice example.

In his fall show this morning, there was a butter-yellow day dress (long sleeve, square neckline) with a skirt that looked full when the model was walking toward you but like a pencil skirt with an apron wrapped around it when she walked away. Demure from the front, supersexy from the back. Mouret did the same thing with skirts in ivory and dove gray, altogether evoking that idea of subversive ladylike dressing that’s been permeating the shows. The designer also played around with vests in wool crepe or fur (layered over tight turtlenecks) that had backs hemmed to shoulder-blade level and long tails in front that were tethered to pants with a belt that ran around the front of the vest and—stay with me here—through the back belt loops of the pants. If it sounds complicated, it still looked simple and chic.

The point is that there were some great options for day here, including the New Look–inspired skirt suits with fully full skirts. They had a sort of English country vibe (never mind that the collection started with the idea of postwar France), and come fall, they will make great alternatives to all the fitted pantsuits out there, especially if they’re paired with those tall straight boots with stacked heels the models were wearing, part of Mouret’s new shoe collection. He’s designed six styles in all, including blockish pumps and stretch knee-high boots. The straight boots in leather were the best. No, it’s not that the designer added shoes to his line because he wanted more work; he’s already making shoes for Robert Clergerie, where he’s creative director, so he may as well make them for himself. And as Mouret says, “You don’t want to not try.” So there you have it—fantastic clothes for day and shoes made for walking. Whether you’re coming or going, that’s up to you.