Pattern stitch:
Row 1: *P3, k9, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P3, k9, repeat from * to end of row
Repeat row 2 until hat measures 6-1/4 inches. Repeat row 2 once more, removing your markers as you work the row. Hem the brim.

“Hemming” the Brim:
Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold with the ribbing inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and purl it and the first stitch on the working row together (p2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and purl it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around, working in pattern, until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the “hemmed” portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 96 stitches.

Begin working pattern stitch again starting with row 1. Repeat row 2 until work measures 8-1/3 inches. Work decreases.

Decreases
Row 1: *P3, k4, k2tog, k3 repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P3, k3, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *P3, k2, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *P3, k2, k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *P3, k1, k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *P1, p2tog, k4, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *P2, k1, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *p2tog, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row
Cut thread, pass thread through stitches on needle, pull tight and secure.

Abbreviations:
dyo = drop the yarn over from the previous row.
tbos, sl = thread bead on stitch, slip stitch. Insert the crochet hook through the center of the bead, hook the next knit stitch and pull it through the bead, then slip that stitch onto the right needle. Continue on with the pattern. Dropping the yo provides enough slack to allow the bead to be threaded over the following knit stitch and for that stitch to be knitted on the next row without the work puckering.

Note: This has a 9-stitch pattern repeat. You may wish to place a marker at 9-stitch intervals to help you keep track.

Decreases:
Row 1: *k3, p2, p2tog, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *p1, k3, p1, p2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *p2, k3, p2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *p3, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *k1, p2tog, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *p2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *k2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k2tog, repeat until 1 stitch remains, k1.
Cut yarn, and thread the tail end through the stitches, secure. Weave in ends. Enjoy.

Variation: Hat without beads
Substitute these 9 rows for the corresponding rows in the hat body above.
Row 11: *k3, p6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 12: *p1, k3, p5, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 13: *p2, k3, p4, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 14: *p3, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 15: *p4, k3, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 16: *p5, k3, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 17: *p6, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 18: *k1, p6, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 19: *k2, p6, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Work decreases as noted above.

Cast-On 80 stitches.
Join to knit in round.
Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: Kfb, k1, kfb, *k2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (108 stitches)
Row 11-16: *k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row
Row 17: *C6F, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 11-17 two more times.
Row 18-20: *k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

Decreases:
Row 1: *k2, ssk, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *k2, ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *k1, ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *k1, ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *ssk, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *ssk, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row

Cut thread with enough length to thread through remaining 6 stitches on needle. Secure and weave in ends. Enjoy.

Hat Body:
Row 1: *k3, kfb, k2, kfb, p3, place stitch marker, repeat from * to end of row.Row 2-3: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *C6F, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k3, C6B, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 11: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 4-11 three times.
Row 12: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Leaving stitch markers in place, begin decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *ssk, k7, p3, repeat from * to end of row (99 stitches)
Row 2: *ssk, k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row (90 stitches
Row 3: *ssk, k5, p3, repeat from * to end of row (81 stitches)
Row 4: *ssk, k4, p3, repeat from * to end of row (72 stitches)
Row 5: *ssk, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row (63 stitches)
Row 6: *ssk, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row (54 stitches)
Row 7: *ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row (45 stitches)
Row 8: *ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches)
Row 9: *ssk, p2, repeat from * to end of row (27 stitches)
Row 10: *ssk, p1, repeat from * to end of row (18 stitches)
Row 11: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row (9 stitches)
Row 12: *ssk, repeat from * until 1 stitch left, k1. (5 stitches)
Cut yarn, leaving enough of a tail end that it can be threaded through all the stitches on the needle, pulled tight and secured. Weave in ends. Enjoy.

Hemmed Toboggan with Internal Ribbing

This is a very simple, easy toboggan (except the hemming part is a bit tricky). The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth. The internal ribbing helps keep it securely on the head. The things you need to know to make it: Provisional cast on, knitting in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a purl stitch, a k2tog stitch and an ssk,

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (4.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Note on Yarn Usage: You can get three hats out of two skeins of this yarn.

Body of Hat
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker. Knitting in the round, knit 3 rows (stockinette). Starting with row 4, work k1, p1 ribbing for 3 inches. Knit until piece measures 9 inches (23 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

“Hemming” the Edge:
(See illustration above) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the “hemmed” portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.

No Frills Toboggan Cap, Mark II

This is a very simple, easy toboggan that is all stockinette (the hemming part is a bit tricky). It is a variation of the previous pattern, the differences being a deeper “hem” and the top decreases are done over a fewer number of rows. The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth. The things you need to know to make it: Provisional cast on, knitting in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a k2tog and an ssk,

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (4.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Note on Yarn Usage: You can get three hats out of two skeins of this yarn.

Body of Hat
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker, and knit in the round for 9 inches (23 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

“Hemming” the Edge:
(See illustration above) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the folded portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.

This is a very simple, easy toboggan cap that is worked all in stockinette (except the hemming part is a bit tricky). The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth, without the need to fold up the bottom of the cap. The things you need to know to make it: How to do a provisional cast on, how to knit in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a k2tog and an ssk. TV knitting at its finest.

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy. (or any DK weight yarn.) You can easily get 3 hats out of 2 skeins.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (3.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Body of Hat:
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker, and knit in the round for 8-1/4 inches (21 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

Hemming the Bottom:
(See illustration at left) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row purlwise from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle, being careful to keep the stitch in the same orientation. Knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Be sure when you are knitting the two stitches together that the provisional stitch is on the right and the working stitch is on the left, so that when the k2tog is worked, the provisional stitch will end up on the wrong side of your work. Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the folded portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.