I'm totally going to copy that tool tube mounting position as it will solve many problems for me, thanks for posting.

I understand it's been covered here many times over, but I did manage to boil my gas on a 3000' technical climb last weekend and obviously need to do something about shielding the tank. The bike wouldn't start for 15 minutes and I could hear/feel the gas boiling... lots of pressure venting out of the tank. I ended up manually running the fan to help cool it off and it did start.
It also has me a little worried about my fuel pump, I'm going to check and see if I have the old version or not.... my bike doesn't start immediately all the time, sometimes I have to turn the key on and off to get it to start while on the trail after I either kill the motor or turn the handlebar switch off.
Hiking out from where I was late in the day would have been bad, I hate hiking in MC boots....
What's the latest greatest heat shield stuff to use? I remember reading somewhere about the precut berg specific blankets coming apart or something not good.... what's the cheapest product to help with the heat under there that's lasting for people?

Also, here's my oil analysis I sent in with 1000 miles on it, 3800 miles on the bike at the time. I'll be sending in another sample soon as I put a lot of miles on the bike last weekend so we'll see how that one goes

The install (once you've got the tank off) is a little time consuming but it fits real good and saves a LOT of time trying to make a template yourself. I've had no issues with it tearing or coming loose. I installed it while I was adding the fan kit and cleaning out the tank when the bike was new. I've had the tank off once since. When I need to remove the tank I disconnect the right radiator and swing it and the fan fwd to make removing the fuel tank a non-issue.

Lost, I used the DEI Reflect-A-GOLD Film and cut my own patterns, a bit tedious and I ran out of it so didn't cover everything, but got all of what I thought were hot spots. So far it is staying in place. That along with ceramic coating the pipe I think has really cut down on heat to the fuel. I also have gold foil on the area the fan blows on the tank, to help reduce heat transfer when the fan is running. I plan to finish covering the underside with Gold foil the next time I have the tank off.

Lost, I used the DEI Reflect-A-GOLD Film and cut my own patterns, a bit tedious and I ran out of it so didn't cover everything, but got all of what I thought were hot spots. So far it is staying in place. That along with ceramic coating the pipe I think has really cut down on heat to the fuel. I also have gold foil on the area the fan blows on the tank, to help reduce heat transfer when the fan is running. I plan to finish covering the underside with Gold foil the next time I have the tank off.

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thanks cyborg!

By chance what size kit did you buy?.... so I know to get the next larger one if I go that route!

My best guess is the #010393 - 24&#8221; x 24&#8221; sheet, $65.88 should do the whole thing if patterns carefully planned. My patterns were disposable and didn't survive the job.

That gold stuff does seem to cut heat well. I use it on my KTM990, under seat and sidepanels to cut heat on rider and passenger, and on certain areas on the fuel tanks near the exhaust header. The DEI stuff has been sticking since 2007 and 35K miles so far, all weather and temps. Used it on my 990 airbox too, has held up to engine temps for years and going strong.

I have a 570 and have been thinking about getting the BRP rubber submount for the Scotts stabilizer but have not seen any reviews. Have you ridden it enough to say whether it significantly reduces vibration or hack and whether it is comparable to Flexx bars? I am actually thinking of using both the rubber submount and Flexx bars but would be happy to just use the submount and save a few $'s.
Thanks for any input

I personally know 2 guys who have the Fisher seats on their Bergs, and one guy who has the seat on his '11 GG EC300, and they are all happy customers. Price is about the same as the Seat Concepts if you send the seat out for the labor. The SC uses an all new cover, whereas the Fisher adds material to the stock cover.

Spent a few days of high altitude exploring this past weekend in the Rockies near Taos, NM.

I was anxious to test my 390 above 10,000 ft. elevation, see how it performed. Made it past 12,000 ft a good bit.

Its a bit risky to explore so far into the wilderness completely unsupported......but I like it. A real free feeling!

Was not without some tension.....like when I got swallowed by this cloud as it passed over me. I stopped, dismounted, and threw a rock up into it, as soared by me. But, I never saw the rock come back down! I kid you not. That was weird. :huh

Found my new campsite way above the bug line:

Now....about the performance:

My 390 definitely felt down on power compared to Rancho Highfive at 700 ft. elevation. That was somewhat expected, even with the fuel injection. However, I still had plenty of power to do the job any way I pleased.....when the bike was running. But I can sure see why the Rocky residents would opt for the 570 instead.

LOST....listen up! First day out, my bike would not restart after shutting off. :eek1 This began occurring after some lengthy...heated....long steep climbs. Felt like it was flooding out (at first). Then, maybe starving of fuel....I donno. After dinking around with it staring....probing...wiggling.....praying, she restarted and seem to run fine. Until the next time I shut it off. Repeat same scenario....over and over. Seemed it would restart after about 15 minutes of rest (and cooling). Sound familiar?

I incubated on this problem in my hammock overnight. Then, had my "Ah-Ha" moment. I took off the gas cap, turned it over, disassembled, and removed the stainless steel "check ball" in the vent. I know.....I know....many have said to "take that thingy out of there pronto". Well, I had never had a problem with it at home (below 1,000 ft. above sea level). I typically don't mess with something until it causes a problem.

Guess what? THEY were right. Remove and throw that little ball bearing as far away as you can. And, just stop falling down.....no more worries.

Here's the deal: At high altitude, under heavy work, the fuel was boiling (even with the CYBORG DEI mod on my tank). Apparently, the excess vapor was pressurizing the tank enough to lift that steel ball bearing and block the hole. The tank appeared to be vapor locking and/or over-pressuring which was definitely affecting the fuel flow/pumping action. Either the bike was starving of fuel or flooding with fuel.....it was hard to tell, exactly. I think starving.

After removing this check-ball, the problem was completely solved! I never had the issue reoccur....even during periods when I could hear the fuel boiling furiously inside my tank (upon shutting the bike off). This...when above 12,000 ft. It would fire right back up, on demand, every time.

The symptoms appeared to be clogged fuel injector.....clogged fuel line/filter.....failing fuel pump, when in reality, it was simply locking up the tank vent.

So, my question to LOST is: Have you removed the check-ball in your fuel tank cap?

The DEI is not magic, but it helps probably as well as the blanket and it's thinnner, takes less room and won't fall apart from taking tank on and off. After I ceramic coated the pipe, I have not heard any boiling of fuel at all even in slow, 1st & 2nd gear uphill rough climbing at 8-9K elevation with the fan running almost continuously. Of course my 390 has no fuel venting problems because of the 70degree sub tank. It has it's own large vent that also helps the main tank in odd pressure/vacuum situations. LOST has the subtank too IIRC so should not have that problem.

I also wanted a higher bar position and a bit more dampening of the bars for my wrists but didn't want to use Flexx bars this time. I spotted a new shock absorber mount from BRP so I got this bundle and installed it, along with the BRP Hand Guard Mounts, which weigh the same as the Cycra clamps and bar clamps they replace, but more rugged.

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cyborg - could you show a photo of the submount set-up from directly above the triple clamp, and of one directly in line with the top of the adjustment knobs ?

I have the HDB handguard set-up now, and was curious of the clearances to see if I could keep the HDB top clamp AND run the same "bundle".

I have a 570 and have been thinking about getting the BRP rubber submount for the Scotts stabilizer but have not seen any reviews. Have you ridden it enough to say whether it significantly reduces vibration or hack and whether it is comparable to Flexx bars? I am actually thinking of using both the rubber submount and Flexx bars but would be happy to just use the submount and save a few $'s.
Thanks for any input

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JayG, just put it on and haven't put it to the real test yet. I plan to go riding offroad this weekend so I should know after that. I've owned Flexx bars before and they are very nice but bulky. I don't expect to get quite as much shock absorption from the BRP setup, but not sure about that yet until I try it.