I don’t bother to puree the potatoes; I just mash them, leaving the texture slightly and
pleasantly chunky.

Not much energy, by the way, should be expended on the difference between sweet potatoes and
yams.

In the United States, just about anything labeled a yam — or a sweet potato — qualifies as a
sweet potato. (A true yam, a staple of the Caribbean diet, is described as rough-skinned, starchy
and not very sweet.)

The true sweet potato — the vegetable eaten at Thanksgiving — is used for the muffin recipe.

Although white flour still has plenty of die-hard devotees, some whole-wheat flour makes a more
healthful choice — with the golden color of the finished muffins camouflaging the wheat flour.

As a practical matter, when a baking recipe calls for white flour, half of it might usually be
swapped for whole-wheat flour with little effect on the color, taste or texture of the result.

Another important player in the recipe is buttermilk, one of my favorite ingredients, especially
for baking. I like buttermilk’s creaminess and its tang. And, contrary to the impression made by
its luxurious texture, it’s actually very low in fat. Buttermilk is a great item to keep in the
fridge; you can use up any extra by adding it to smoothies.

Finally, the muffins are topped with chopped, crystallized ginger (also called candied ginger).
But if for some reason you’re not a fan, you can top these with the chopped nut of your choice.

Just don’t tell my mother.

Sara Moulton held the position of executive chef at Gourmet magazine for almost 25 years and
spent a decade hosting Food Network shows. The star of Sara’s Weeknight Meals on public television
has written three cookbooks, including Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.