Add wearable to that list, too. No major designer showed any skirts or outlandish silhouettes at the four-day event. Willi Smith, the designer at WilliWear, managed to elicit the most gasps out of the 150 fashion writers from around the country when he sent models down the runway in coral and magenta-colored taffeta trench coats and Nehru-style jackets with Bermudas.

There was something for every man, regardless of shape, age and size. But must-haves this season will include a linen dress shirt; a short-sleeved, boldly printed camp shirt and khaki or white shorts; a silk or linen suit in gray or brown tones; and an unconstructed jacket.

Some of the key menswear trends at the show are already popping up in Chicago-area stores. Among them:

-- The T or wedge silhouette. A holdover from last season, this shape puts emphasis on the upper torso, with broad shoulders and a less defined waistline. Suit coats and sport jackets often have no side or center vents. Watch for slightly wider, lower-cut lapels with larger notch openings, which also create width in the chest area.

-- Fuller-cut trousers. Walking away with top honors are front-pleated pants, cut somewhat fuller through the thigh, and then tapering down to the ankles. Such designers as Willi Smith, Andrew Fezza and Giorgio Armani did exaggerated versions, often putting cuffs on their trousers. According to Chip Tolbert, the MFA`s fashion director, ``cuffs are optional, a matter of personal taste. However, pants in lightweight fabrics hang better when cuffed.``

-- Both single- and double-breasted styling. Although single-breasteds are still the front-runners in jackets and coats, double-breasted models are coming up fast and are no longer restricted to high fashion. What a man wears depends on his personal style and taste.

-- Softwear. No, not anything to do with computers but rather minimally or unconstructed sport coats. Unlike traditional tailored clothing, these jackets have no facing in the front, very often no lining and very lightweight shoulder pads. The silhouettes are easy, loose and comfortable to wear.

How and where to wear them? They can be dressed up--with a shirt, tie and fuller-cut trousers for the office--or dressed down--with T-shirts and jeans

--for weekends. Fabrics run the gamut, from linens and leathers to ribbed cottons and nubby silks.

-- The seersucker suit. In earlier times, crinkly seersucker was the poor man`s fabric. No longer. Now it`s a classic, tailored in summer`s favorite suit. Diverse manufacturers and designers such as Hartmarx, Cesarani, Jeffrey Banks and Haspel are in love with these blue-white, gray-white and sand-white striped cotton suits. They look newest in double-breasted models, accessorized with striped shirts, bow ties and pocket squares, in co-ordinated colors.

-- Brown and gray suits. President Reagan certainly had a lot to do in bringing brown suits out of the closet and into the fashion arena. Brown is now the newest power color, ranging from the chalky medium shades to deep bitter chocolate, often with discreet color overlays. Diffused stripes, checks and plaids will be choice patterns of the boardroom set. And the favored shirt colors with brown are tones of pink and dusty rose.

Hate brown? The good gray suit is still around and still looking good, too. Fabrics include linen, silk, sharkskin and polyester blends in textured solids, stripes and plaids. The newest way to accessorize a gray suit is with a white or pale gray shirt and a tie in tones of yellow, teal or violet.

-- Duster coats. Last season, these lightweight toppers hit the women`s market and this year they are showing up for men. Dusters are long, full coats, usually in unlined linen or canvas, with exaggerated shoulder lines and pockets. In the early 20th Century, men wore them to protect their suits from the dust when they rode in open cars.

In 1985, men can wear them in place of a raincoat. By no means will dusters be volume sellers, but they herald the shape of coats for fall `85

--long and full.

-- Sweaters. Cotton knit pullovers and cardigans are finally coming into their own. Argyles, geometric patterns and stripes abound in casual patterns. Cardigans, which can be blousons with shawl collars or the standard models with front buttons, can be worn anywhere blazers are, accented with shirts and ties.