Dressing to oppress: why dress codes and freedom clash

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At 18:30 GMT on Wednesday the 18th January, the Index on Censorship magazine launched its latest edition with an evening of discussion, looking at how bans and state-imposed clothing regulations clash with freedom of expression.

About the debate:

The speakers considered why and if governments ban clothing at times when they are insecure or fearful. With the audience, they debated how people have rebelled against clothing censorship as well as what the impact of restrictions on clothing can be.

The debate drew on arguments from the magazine about this theme, suggesting that when governments introduce bans on clothing, or restrict certain items to an elite group, they signal their own lack of confidence.

At different points in world history, governments have forced small groups of people to wear particular things or tried to wipe out styles of clothing they did not approve of. For instance, in medieval Europe, non-Christians and Christians who refused to conform to a state religion (such as the Cathars) were, at certain periods, forced to wear symbols of identification, such as stars or crescents.

Forcing specific groups to wear a particular symbol or item of clothing identifies that group of people. The authorities which enforce such measures are, by implication, saying to the majority that there is a difference in the status of the minority group and, in doing so, opening them up to attack or, at the very least, suspicion. And, historically, groups which have been forced to wear some kind of identifying symbol or special outfit have then found themselves subject to being ostracised or physically attacked.

The evening therefore aimed to explore how clothing regulations can be used to oppress and how responses can challenge and confront such oppression. And, visitors were able to hear from an expert panel, including Maggie Alderson, former editor of Elle magazine, Regina Jane Jere-Malanda, editor of New African Woman magazine and the fashion historian Amber Butchart.

Recording:

Participants:

Speakers:

Maggie Alderson is an editor, journalist, columnist and bestselling novelist of 12 books, formerly of ES and ELLE magazines.

Laura Silvia Battaglia is a prize winning freelance journalist who spreads her time between Italy and Sanaa (Yemen) and contributes towards a number of different mediums. In 2010, her video documentary Maria Grazia Cutuli. Il prezzo della verità won the Premio Giancarlo Siani award.

Amber Butchart is an associate lecturer at the London College of Fashion, a fashion historian and author, working across cultural heritage, broadcasting and academia.

Regina Jane Jere-Malanda is a Zambian-born, London-based journalist and currently the editor of the New African Woman magazine. She writes extensively on a wide range of issues, from politics to beauty and fashion, women’s rights, media freedom and free speech.

Winter edition of the Index on Censorship magazine:

In the upcoming issue, models Lily Cole and Daphne Selfe discuss why changes in society are reflected in the clothes we (are allowed to) wear, while writers from around the world look at indigenous dress in Nigeria, oppression of Indonesian punks and fashion and freedom of expression in Saudi Arabia. In addition to the thematical content, a cartoon by Martin Rowson featuring Donald Trump in a fur thong, poetry from Paulo Scott and a never before seen English translation of a short story by legendary Argentine writer Haroldo Conti also await readers.

To find out more about the winter edition of the Index on Censorship magazine, click here.

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