" Winemaker Randall Graham has a way with words, so let's him do the talking on this unusual wine from one of the state's most iconoclastic wineries..."Viognier d'ou? From Paso Robles, of course, specifically the Chequera Vineyard, from whence derived the dry wine formally and formerly known as Roussanne. Simpler, less litigious days those were. On the subject of neiges and vins d'antan, it is believed that "dry" wines from Condrieu, viognier's ancestral homeland, are a relatively recent (post-war) innovation. In earlier times, viognier was made as a proper, off-dry apéritif wine. Being ever the neo-retrobutionists that we are, we submit herin Exhibit V, a classic example of viognier comme apé ritif - a study in white peaches, coconut and floral honey. The highest calling of this cuvée is likely to be a crushingly sophisticated apéritif or an accompaniment to foie gras [or liberty liver as it is known in the Congressional Dining Room] though it will work very nicely with any number of desserts. Stay dooned.""