Ed Wiener (1918-1991)
was one of the most well-loved and respected modernist jewelers of his
day. Though almost entirely self-taught, he possessed a magnificent
appreciation of form, line, and color together with an amazing ability
to uniquely apply the ideas and principles of modernism to his life's
work.

A very substantial
mid-20th century,
sterling pin by Ed Wiener; I have not previously seen this design by
Wiener—it
references a necklace created in 1954, #92 in his retrospective catalog,
"Jewelry by Ed Wiener" on page 69; pin is about 1-5/8" x 1-3/4"; marked: "ED WIENER;" fine condition.

$435.00 (item #HPW001)

ED WIENER STERLING & PEARL EARRINGS

A great early pair of Ed Wiener sterling and
pearl screwback earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 1-1/4" x 1-1/4";
marked "IENER, STERLING;" great patina, fine condition.

The Chatham emerald was a discovery of
Carroll F. Chatham, a San Francisco scientist who discovered the secret
of growing emeralds. Peter Macchiarini also used Chatham emeralds
in some of his jewelry. The method of creating these beautiful
emerald crystals continues to be carefully guarded family secret. The
company is now under the direction of Carroll's son, Tom.

Exquisite gold dancer pin by Ed Wiener, c.
late 1960s; about 2" x 1-1/2"; though unsigned, the piece is in keeping
with Ed Wiener's particular gold work of the late 1960s; piece tests as
18K gold, but has no marks; blue stone is a
sapphire; small chip on the stone under one of the prongs,
otherwise fine condition. This piece is from the collection of a
woman who purchased pieces directly from Ed Wiener in New York in the
1950s and 1960s.

$1,200.00 (item #JP003)

ED WIENER STERLING & EBONY PIN

A
wonderful little Ed Wiener sterling and ebony pin; about 1" x 5/8";
comes
directly from the original owner who purchased it from Ed Wiener in the
mid 1950s; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING; " fine condition.

Betty Cooke has been designing and creating
her one-of-a-kind pieces since the 1940s. She has been widely recognized
and has won many prizes for her work. She exhibited at the 1951 "Alumni
Exhibition, Textiles, Ceramics, Metalwork" at the Cranbrook Academy of
Art, 1955 and 1959 at the Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, and she was
given a retrospective at the Maryland Institute, College of Art in 1995.
I interviewed Betty Cooke at her shop in Baltimore in 2001. You
can read that interview at
http://www.modernsilver.com/BETTYCOOKE.htm

A great, very Bauhaus design by Betty Cooke;
I believe this is a vintage piece; about 2" diameter; marked: "COOKE,
STERLING;" fine condition with only light surface wear and good patina.

$335.00 (item #WSM002)
NEW!

BETTY COOKE STERLING EARRINGS

Wonderful, vintage earrings by Betty Cooke
in a star design; each is about 1" diameter; marked "COOKE, STERLING;" screwbacks; fine condition with light surface wear and good patina.

SOLD (item #WSM003)

BETTY COOKE, EARLY STERLING & RESIN NECKLACE

It's hard to find an early piece by Betty
Cooke with great provenance; this beautiful sterling and ebony-like
resin necklace comes from the family who
purchased it directly from Betty in the early 1960s; the patina is
absolutely wonderful! It's about 15-1/2" around (when closed); fits a
small neck; each link is about 3/16" wide; marked: "COOKE, STERLING;"
excellent condition.

The following five pieces of
Betty Cooke jewelry are from one collection and have never before been
offered. Mid 20th century, modernist, Baltimore architect, Alexander S.
Cochran (1913–1990) and his wife, Caroline Sizer Cochran were great
friends of Betty Cooke and the following pieces were given as gifts to
the family. Alexander Cochran was described as an "architectural
missionary." Besides being devoted to modernism, Cochran was a highly
romantic, deeply religious humanist who desired to keep the best of the
past while adapting to modern needs. He transformed his city, pointing
the way to its later renaissance in the 1960s.

Partially
taken from the book, Alexander Smith Cochran: Modernist Architect in
Traditional Baltimore.

BETTY COOKE STERLING EARRINGS

Great modern design, sterling earrings by
Betty Cooke with joined, trefoil cylinders; each is about 2-1/4" long (not
including French hooks); one of the cylinders has a slightly flattened
edge (could be easily fixed), otherwise fine condition; no marks.

E. Peter Peterson graduated from the
Cooper Union in New York City with a degree in fine arts. She was a
children's painting instructor at the Brooklyn Museum and
studied weaving, pottery, silkscreen, sculpture, jewelry making,
and silversmithing at the Craft Students League. She was
the "Peter" of Peter Nass Silver and Jewelry Shop in New York,
New York. She exhibited in the Walker Art Center's 1955
Contemporary Jewelry Design Quarterly exhibit.

A great pair of
handmade sterling cufflinks by New York, mid 20th century
jeweler, E. Peter Peterson (who signed "P. Nass"); each is about
1-1/8" long x 5/16"" wide; each cufflink is
marked: "P. NASS, STERLING;" fine condition.

E. Peter Peterson graduated from the
Cooper Union in New York City with a degree in fine arts. She was a
children's painting instructor at the Brooklyn Museum and
studied weaving, pottery, silkscreen, sculpture, jewelry making,
and silversmithing at the Craft Students League. She was
the "Peter" of Peter Nass Silver and Jewelry Shop in New York,
New York. She exhibited in the Walker Art Center's 1955
Contemporary Jewelry Design Quarterly exhibit. This
information is from my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960,
The Wearable Art Movement.

SOLD (item #SMMJ001)

Studio jeweler J. Arnold Frew,
worked in Arcadia, California in the 1950s. Many of his customers
were Hollywood celebrities. Like other studio jewelers of
his day, Frew created one-of-kind pieces in silver, mostly undecorated
and modern. He also worked in the lost wax process.

A fabulous pair of
handmade sterling cufflinks in the shape of fish, by California,
mid 20th century jeweler, Arnold Frew; each is about
1-1/4" long x 1/2"; each cufflink is marked: 'FREW;"
fine condition.

$450.00 (item #SMMJ002)

HANDMADE MID 20TH
CENTURY STERLING CUFFLINKS BY ARNOLD FREW

A great pair of handmade sterling cufflinks by
California, mid 20th century
jeweler, Arnold Frew; each is about
1" diameter; marked: "FREW;" fine condition.

Studio jeweler J. Arnold Frew,
worked in Arcadia, California in the 1950s. Many of his customers
were Hollywood celebrities. Like other studio jewelers of
his day, Frew created one-of-kind pieces in silver, mostly undecorated
and modern. He also worked in the lost wax process.

Henry Steig (1906-1973) had a shop in
New York in the 1950s-1960s. Jazz had a significant influence on his
work--Steig was a musician who played saxophone and clarinet with dance
bands in New York during the 1920s-30s. He studied art at the National
Academy of Design, but was mostly a self-taught metalsmith. His jewelry
designs are modern and sophisticated, evidencing his training in design
and sculpture.

A truly great design by Henry Steig; sterling cuff with
carnelian
cabochon; inside diameter about 2-3/8'; band is about 1-1/4" wide at the
front; marked: "HENRY STEIG, STERLING;" one minute rough spot on edge of
band, other wise fine condition with beautiful patina.

SOLD (item #SMM0100)

EXCEPTIONAL, EARLY STERLING
& WOOD PENDANT BY HENRY STEIG

From a private collection, an early
and fabulous pendant by mid 20th century American artist,
Henry Steig; wood, silver, and tiger's eye agate; about 3-1/2" long x
2-1/2" wide; marked: "STEIG, STERLING;" great patina and
condition; non-original 19" sterling chain.

SOLD (item
#MSS001)

HENRY STEIG, STERLING CHAIN AND STONE
PENDANT

From the same private collection
comes this incredible handmade sterling chain with pendant and
tiger's
eye stone by Henry Steig; chain is about 17" overall with 2" sterling
pendant, holding a large tiger's eye; marked: "STEIG,
STERLING;" great patina and
condition.

Beautiful, Olaf
Skoogfors sterling
pin/pendant; has the look of an abstracted landscape; about size 1-3/4 X 1-3/4";
a limited edition piece of only 25, this being number 1; marked: "OLAF SKOOGFORS;
STERLING, 1-25;" fine condition.

SOLD
(item #HPM007)

Rumanian-born, American studio
jeweler Paul Lobel (1899 - 1983) was also a sculptor and designer of
glass, furniture and silver hollowware. He had a studio/shop in New
York's Greenwich Village in the 1940s and 50s. His work has been
included in many museum exhibitions and he was at the forefront of
the American Modernist studio jewelry movement.

A great pair of sterling earrings by Paul
Lobel, c. 1950s; each is about 2-1/2" long; marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;"
fine condition with light surface wear; screwbacks.

$385.00 (item #WSM004)

PAUL LOBEL STERLING HORSE PIN

An
excellent example of the mid 20th century work of Paul Lobel; highly
sculptural, abstract horse pin; about 3-1/4" long x 7/8" (at the widest
point); light surface wear, otherwise fine condition with good patina;
marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;" from a collection of pieces purchased
directly from Paul Lobel in the late 1940s.

SOLD (item #SMM061)

PAUL LOBEL STERLING PIN/PENDANT

Three-dimensional pin/pendant with onyx by Paul Lobel; about 2-1/8" x
1-1/2"; uniquely set onyx (I've never before seen this design);
pin and bail for chain;
from a collection of pieces purchased directly from Paul Lobel in the late 1940s;
marked: 'LOBEL, STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine
condition.

$225.00 (item #WEM008)

PAUL LOBEL STERLING EARRINGS

Paul
Lobel sterling drop earrings; each is about 1-1/2" long; marked: "LOBEL,
STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition;
from a collection of pieces purchased directly from Paul Lobel in the
late 1940s; earrings have been converted from screwbacks to posts for
pierced ears.

SOLD (item #WEM009)

PAUL LOBEL STERLING PENDANT & CHAIN

Sculptural, sterling pendant and
original
chain by Paul Lobel;
pendant is about 3" x 2" (including handmade bail), chain is 16" long;
pendant and chain are both marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;" light surface
wear, otherwise fine condition; from
a collection of pieces purchased directly from Paul Lobel in the late 1940s.

Ruth Roach
(1913-1979) was an
extraordinary,
multitalented artist/craftsman who made a significant impact on the art
world during her relatively short career. She studied painting in
Chicago, both at the Chicago Art Institute and with William Henry
Watson. She later took all the available art courses at the State
College of Iowa. She became a potter, but later, in 1954, decided to
concentrate on jewelry after studying with Robert von Neumann. Roach
had her first one-man show at the Des Moines Art Center in 1954,
participated in the Third National Exhibition of Contemporary Jewelers
at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis in 1955, and, for the next
fourteen years, exhibited widely across the United States. Since
everything she created was intricate in nature and completely
one-of-a-kind, her pieces are not readily available. This
collection comes from her family and has never before been on the
market.

In keeping with what was
happening in the jewelry world in the mid to late 1960s, Ruth Roach
created this "tongue in cheek" badge pin with a
lithographed cameo and a small crown pin with crossed axe and gavel and
the word "Mom" in red; brooch, itself, is sterling silver, approximately
3-1/8" x 3"; marked on reverse: "ROACH, STERLING;" fine condition.

Extraordinary necklace by Ruth
Roach in sterling with bird bones and wire in
scenes of children playing outdoor games; largest sterling plaque is
about 1-1/2" x 1-1/8"; whole necklace is about 22" around; marked:
"ROACH, STERLING; " fine condition. This necklace is pictured in
Ruth Roach,
Uncommon Jeweler, MODERN SILVER magazine, Aug/Sept, 2002.

$6,500.00 (item #RR002)

RUTH ROACH STERLING CUFF WITH PINK
STONE AND GOLD WIRE

Beautiful, sterling cuff by
Ruth Roach with gold wire and oval pink cabochon--probably
mother of pearl; inside diameter about
2-1/4" with about a 1" opening; front is approximately 1-1/8" long x
5/8" wide; band tapers to 3/8" at the back; marked: "ROACH, STERLING;"
fine condition.

This is more sculpture than stick pin, but it would be fun to wear;
it's overall length is about 6-3/4"; the top is a silver box
with a green stone-bodied frog or turtle with
eight wire legs that moves back and forth when the pin is wiggled;
box is about 1-3/8" square x 3/8" thick; marked: "ROACH, STERLING;"
fine condition; this is great, whimsical piece!

$550.00(item
#RR006)

RUTH ROACH STERLING CAST SEEDPOD
RING WITH GOLD WASH

A great ring by Ruth Roach, gold-washed sterling; cast from a seedpod;
slightly under size 7; top is approximately 1-3/8" x 3/4";
marked: "ROACH, STERLING;" fine condition

$550.00

(item
#RR007) HOLD

Peter Macchiarini (1909 - 2001) is considered
one of the pioneers of American modernist studio jewelry. His
studio/gallery was in the North Beach section of San Francisco where,
beginning in the 1930s, he handcrafted unique works of art including
sculpture and jewelry. Margaret De Patta was a close friend and, together
with other "pioneers" of this period, they started the San Francisco
Metal Arts Guild.

Also see
Macchiarini
on Macchiarini, one of the first and still one of the best articles
from MODERN SILVER magazine, June - July, 2000.

PETER MACCHIARINI STERLING DOUBLE FISH
PENDANT

1960s
Peter Macchiarini sterling double fish pendant; about 2" diameter;
according to Daniel Macchiarini the pendant was created especially for a
Catholic priest who was a friend of Peter's, for whom he also made a
bronze and sterling silver alter chalice; light surface wear, otherwise
fine condition; marked: "MACCHIARINI."$1950.00 (item #GCM004)

PETER
MACCHIARINI BRASS PIN WITH LAPIS

One of the most stunning pieces I've seen by Peter Macchiarini (and I've
seen many and truly love his work)! Handmade, highly sculptural brass
pin with a gorgeous lapis cabochon; pin is about 2-1/4" x 2" x about
3/4" deep (when worn); etched date and signature: "Peter Macchiarini,
1974;" very fine condition.

SOLD (item #AHS001)

PETER
MACCHIARINI CONSTRUCTIVIST PIN

If
you have been looking for a Peter Macchiarini pin in a
constructivist style, this is a great one,
c. 1980s;
great design in silver, copper, and brass with an
interesting banded, brown stone (I'm unsure what it is);
about 4-1/4" long; marked: 'MACCHIARINI;" fine
condition.

$2,500.00 (item #LUCM001)

PETER MACCHIARINI STERLING & GOLD RING

A great, sculptural, gold and silver band by Peter Macchiarini,
c. 1960s-70s; about size 9-1/4, band is approximately 1/4" wide; marked:
"MACC;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #KAM001)

PETER MACCHIARINI STERLING RING

A beautiful sterling band by Peter Macchiarini,
c. 1960s-70s; about size 9/1/2, band is approximately 3/8"wide;
marked: "MACC;" band is incised with the figure of a dove and other
symbols; fine condition.

Rare Peter Macchiarini
sterling mask pendant, signed P. Macchiarini and dated 1947, 1-5/8"
x 7/8"; according to Daniel Macchiarini, these pieces were
among Peter Macchiarini's first in solid metal; though the size is
small, the weight gives the piece presence as a pendant for either a
man or woman; great patina, fine condition.

Sterling, ebony, ivory and brass
dot ring by Daniel Macchiarini; created in the 1990s in
collaboration with
Peter Macchiarini; top is approximately 1-3/16" x 7/16; ring is
about size 7-3/4; marked: "MACC;" fine condition.

SOLD
(item #M0334)

Daniel Macchiarini is one of my favorite
jewelers. He handcrafts unique pieces in his studio/gallery on Grant
Avenue in San Francisco's North Beach area. Like his father before him,
each piece is one-of-a-kind and he adheres to the traditions of
maintaining a studio where customers can participate in intellectual
conversation while watching the pieces being made. There is much
more about Daniel Macchiarini in my latest book,Form & Function,
American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 . His work
was a major part of the exhibit "The
Modernist Movement and Beyond: The Works of Peter Macchiarini and Daniel Macchiarini, Earl
Pardon and Tod Pardon." Please see:
http://www.modernsilver.com/Americanmodernistjewelry.htm

See alsoMacchiarini on
Macchiarini, one of the first and still one of the best articles
from MODERN SILVER magazine, June - July, 2000.

I am including Daniel and his daughter Emma on
this page because of their continuing exploration of the work begun by
Peter Macchiarini.

EARLY DANIEL MACCHIARINI CUBIST GUITAR
BROOCH

Great, mixed metals
guitar brooch by Daniel Macchiarini; I believe that this one was created when
Daniel's father, Peter Macchiarini, was still working; copper, silver, brass, ebony, and pearl;
marked: "MACCHIARINI;" about 3-14" long; fine condition.

"The exploration of form" was the never-ending journey that
Peter Macchiarini began in the 1930s. His experiments with the exploration
of depth were represented in multi-layered creations he called
"Pods." Daniel Macchiarini continues to create new,
exciting versions of this pod form. (information from my book Modernist
Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, pg. 36.)

Art Smith (1917-1982) was a New
York silversmith who's African American heritage influenced his
sculptural jewelry forms. More than any other modernist jeweler
of his day, Art Smith was concerned with ornamenting the human form.
His primitive-inspired, biomorphic constructions can only be truly
understood in relation to the body. "A piece of jewelry, he said,
"is a whatisit? until you relate it to the body...Like line, form
and color, the body is a material to work with. It is one of the
basic inspirations in creating form... Art Smith's work is
featured at the Brooklyn Museum in a permanent exhibit and is in the
collections of many major museums and collections.

Large, beautifully designed gold cufflinks
with amethysts by Art Smith; each is about 1-1/8" x 7/8"; constructed in
two layers so the amethyst cabochons float in between; has
typical Art
Smith patination on parts of the gold; findings are marked "14K" and
cufflinks are marked "Art Smith" (in script); cufflinks come from a
private New York collection of a couple who purchased these and other
pieces directly from Smith; fine condition.

It is rare to find gold cufflinks by Art Smith and
the design of this pair rivals any I've seen by Smith or by any other
jewelers of note.

SOLD (item #M1027)

ART SMITH GOLD CUFFLINKS WITH
ANCIENT ROMAN BRONZE COINS

An exquisite pair of gold cufflinks by Art
Smith; ancient bronze Greek coins set in oxidized disks; ingeniously
designed backs; each is approximately 1" diameter; marked:
"Art
Smith" in script; fine condition.

$1,250.00 (item #BR001)

ART SMITH COPPER CUFF

Art Smith Copper cuff,
c. 1950s; from a single collection; about 2" wide, inside diameter
approximately 2-1/2"; the signature may be there and hidden beneath the
heavy inside patina, but I have not been able to find it; absolutely
guaranteed to be handmade by Art Smith (see other pieces below from the
same collection); great patina, fine condition.

Art Smith copper and
brass earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 2" long; screwbacks; a little
spot on the patina on one of the earrings (see larger photograph),
otherwise fine condition with original patina; marked: "Art Smith" (in
script).