Needs some help on the relay wiring, I have saved the 4 Subi relays. On the ignition relay using 2 relays as one, I am not seeing which wire to use and which to skip if I use the picture on the first page the feed out side shows 5 outs so to speak. I know it's something that is simple that I am not understanding. But not much of an electrical guy.

Dazoc wrote:Needs some help on the relay wiring, I have saved the 4 Subi relays. On the ignition relay using 2 relays as one, I am not seeing which wire to use and which to skip if I use the picture on the first page the feed out side shows 5 outs so to speak. I know it's something that is simple that I am not understanding. But not much of an electrical guy.

Thanks!

What I learned about those relays is when you pull the relay out and look at the connectors you will see 2 that are copper colored and 2 that are kind of silver colored, the copper ones are the work side, one gets power and the other sends it o the job and the other 2 are control and if it is ground controlled one gets power all the time and the ground controls it and if it is power controlled one gets grounded and the power controls it, most computer things are ground control. I hope that helps.

Ed, I don't use the black relays I use the round Subaru relays from the harness. the brown main and fuel are there but add a fan. The heavy wires are load in and out and the thin wire signal and ground. done 10 so far this way with no problems.

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It's not letting me edit the original post, but here is a snippet I need to add directly after the ECU pinouts...

The only other sensor wires you should have left that are loose from the other plugs of the harness are:

Blue and Red/Green from engine plug to igniter.
Green White from engine plug to oil pressure light
White/green as the second wire going to the dash for the temperature sensor.
Black/White from alternator to dash light.

Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.

Time so far... 3 hours to pull harness (if that - I took video of the process), 2 hours separating and cleaning harness (while watching movie), two sittings for a total of 6 hours to get it to where it is now including measurements and making board. Not too shabby.

This harness is fused already (ign relay 20a, fans 20a, fuel pump 10a) and gets power from the starter lug. Plug and play.

Replace single wire temperature sender (12 mm wrench) with 1/8" NPT 27 threaded sender from your gauge. You will find it on the front of the coolant pipe on top of the engine near the left side (when mounted in bug). If your sender has a 1/4" male spade connector it will plug right into the harness.

The belt you will need for alternator is k050275 or equivalent.

Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.

Another OOOPs meant to post here to start with guess I fat fingered the new post instead so copied and pasted. Sheesh!
oops! Tried to copy and paste picture of the relay diagram but no go, so will try to explain in my convoluted way
I have power coming back through my switch on line everything checks out as far as the schematic goes but the double ignition relay, I assumed there, it shows one side powered and grounded but I figured if working in tandem they would both need to be so I wired them as such, is this where the power is feeding back?
if just connecting the battery there is no power all is good connect the switch on relays click and there is power, can pull it and engine will quit but switch on line still has power the ecu blinking its little green eye at me telling o2 sensor problems (not hooked up).
The diode is in the right order leg color and arrow.
Will keep digging but was wondering if you had encountered this? Thanks
W.C.(Curt) Acree

Oh and looking at diagram the ignition relays cant feed back anyway so on to other things but still would like to know if wiring in tandem is proper. Thanks

I've worked my way through my 98 EJ22 conversion and got it running. It was suffering from a rough idle that I tracked down to a leak in the intake manifold. Now that I have fixed the leak by tightening down the throttle body. It runs like crap, blows black smoke and won't rev up, just wants to die.

Heres my question- what happened it ran and idle and rev'd before I fixed the leak now I can't even drive it. I have an OBD II scan tool and pull a bunch of info out of the computer. Is there something that I should be looking for?

No new codes just the two about fuel temp and pressure since I don't have those hooked up.