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The purpose of this thread is to show how i am doing my ETEK-EP-Mag conversion. Keep in mind this is the first time i am performing the mod and welcome any advise from the pros on what i am doing wrong. I have a fine example done by Loguzzzzzz to guide me though. All measurements and instructions are specific to the parts i am using. This ETEK frame is almost identical to the star frame done by Loguzzzzzz
So here we go

X Valve with LX bolt.
ETEK 2 frame with stock board.
RPG Recon Rail
Still going with the SMC-SDG-32 noid also the SMC SY113A-SG-PM3 will fit and handles higher pressure.
Ram (Clippard MPA-3, Machined/modified to fit by Loguzzzzzz)
LPR Palmer Pebble
For the eyes I am going to suggest people look into hidden Ego eyes developed by me and offered by Luke's Customs. Here is the thread to there development.http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...67#post2760367
And here is Luke's website.http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0018.htm

They make a nice couple.

Tools that you mite not have. You will need other tools but these are the ones you will most likely need to buy.

First off is laying out the ram location and set screws. Drill for the set screws with a 3/32 dril bit

Then you take out some material so the ram will fit with a little friction. You will need to take a bit off the width of the rail and also dremel out the area circled to get the fitting on the bottom of the ram to fit

Then tap the set screw holes with a 6-32 tap.

Then set the ram in its general location

Last edited by hill160881; 07-12-2012 at 10:47 AM.
Reason: to issue credit where it was due

Then drill the hole and level the area where the main valve screw sets. Once this is done the marker should bolt together. The area around the main valve screw can be cleaned up later.

The Ram
It has been modified by loguzzzzzz in this manor so it will fit into the Planet Eclipse frames.(with a bit of help from a dremel)
View from the back of the ram

The Noid
First you need to attach the noid wires to the plug from a etek noid. They are color coded.
Here is a video on how to do this And the soldering iron i use
Make sure you slip a piece of shrink tubing on before soldering the plug onhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBJsI0rhoRs
Once soldered wrap a piece of e-tape around one wire, then the other, making sure that they will never toutch, Then slip the shrink tubing over the tape and shrink it

Here is the order for the ports on the noid. IMPORTANT: remember to wrap the noid with e-tape to insulate it from shorting something on the board.

Now lets put it in the frame conecting a small piece of line to the vent and a piece that reaches the ram. Note that the tubing going to the ram from the noid needs to be as short as possible and should not exceed 2.5"(that is how long mine is)

Once done put a battery in and make sure the noid works.

If you remove the sear rod correctly and gently you can reuse it if you want to go back to Mechanical

If you already have a lpr ready to go then bolt it on and go. Like this.
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It is worth it to note that i made no adjustments after assembly. So if you follow these measurements then you will most likely be done

Just a side note on the LPR and the noid. If you get a shot when you air up the marker or when you degas it, then your LPR is not any good. Nor is another just like it.

This is caused by a temporary spike in the pressure that is intense enough to push past the noid and trip the sear. My bullet reg and some other very small reg from a pneu mag did this. This will Damage the noid. Over pressure is not good for any noid. I switched to a Palmer Pebble, and problem solved. Also the Pebble will handle 1500 psi input and is CO2 friendly. It is also faster than the micro rock that palmer makes, according to there website.

I also think this is why i can get this noid to cycle at such high rates of fire without damaging it. This is a theory, but it makes sense. If i am going to operate this noid at its max pressure then the LPR better not jump up 5psi, not ever. The LPRs i am using seem to be very accurate, and very very fast.

Well i decided to go with another Star frame with this build and now it is only waiting the for-grip from Venomous Designs. Note that i am using a rather different reg. No shots when i air it up or down so far.

Its test run/maiden voyage. I love these even with no eyes.
<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-SjWlR33rvE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Yes but i dont advertise and the last two did not last long when they went on the market. The last one lasted 10 min. Since i cant make a living at it and i enjoy making things i dont try to make a bunch of money. It is hard to sell something for like new prices when it is a modified part, no mater how good it looks. Especially when there is the VER frame and the other frames companies here on ao make brand new.

The starframes are pricey at $300 and up when modified, since they are nearly impossible to get without getting an entire marker. However the etek 2 frames are more affordable at 200 and up when modified.

I want to say that it is PTP that has a patent on pneumatic frames, which is why we haven't had many "how to"s in the past. I'm not dogging on you or anything, but offering to sell your wares may be violating patent law.

How to attach a new plug to the noid.

The insert.

This is how it will attach to the wire.

Once connected

We have been looking at what i will call the bottom of the insert, now lets look at the top of it. There is a barb sticking up close to the plug end on the top. It goes through a notch in the top of the plug. The picture shows it as best as i can. Does this Make any sense?

So I'm about finished and I'm having some problems getting the ram to trip the sear. I've cleared out plenty of room in the frame to give the ram ample room away from the sear and it struggles to trip the sear. Out of twenty trigger pulls I'd say it fires one time. I have an xvalve and an evalve with the same results. I also have a .712 and .750 pin and same results with both. Any ideas or advice? Thanks