Blueprinting

A blueprint is a way to display a drawing documenting architecture or an engineering design details using a contact print process and several layers of thin sheets. Introduced in the 19th century, the process allowed rapid and accurate reproduction of documents used in construction and industry to cut down on time-consuming hand copies and the possibility of copy errors in the era before inexpensive photocopies. The blue-print process was characterized by light colored lines on a blue background, a negative of the original formed by thin layers of an ammonia, potassium, iron, and cyanide solution on the underlayers of paper. Even though most architectural and engineering diagrams are now executed using computer-aided design or digital pen interface and printed on white paper, the diagram of the original design is often referred to as a blueprint; commissioned work for important clients or for public display are often still rendered with white lines on a blue background to give viewers a feeling of the special nature of the diagram.

Getting Started

Gather your research notes, sketches, images, and dimensions of the structure you plan to build and ensure they are safely stored in your portfolio at day's end.

Use graph paper (1/4 inch) for your design, estimating the height and width of paper needed based on your dimensions calculations. Think ahead to use the paper in portrait (tall) or landscape (wide) orientation to avoid waste.

Tape sheets of 1/4" graph paper together with transparent tape, taking care to overlap the paper slightly and match the gridlines.

Create a point of origin at the lower left corner of the graph paper where the first row and first column intersect.

Count one inch to the right and one inch up and mark the intersection. This will be the lower left corner of the front elevation, or facade, of your building design. This will leave space for symbols, notes, and possible drafting or cutting mistakes along the edges and bottom of the graph paper.

Drafting Your Design

Always use a straight edge, triangle, curve guide, protractor, or plastic/metal template on blueprints; no freehanding!

Begin by drawing the front elevation, followed by the right side (oriented from the front view of the building), rear, and left side.

Only include the exterior walls of your design; roofs will be constructed of different materials, and any internal details will use recyclables rather than foam due to the expense.

Mark doors and windows to be cut out with solid lines and well-defined corners or curves. Please do not expect the teacher or adult volunteers to cut muntins, panes, or details on pediments or columns; these will be smaller details you will add in the final stages.

Mark connecting edges between front and side faces (and side and rear faces) with dotted lines; these will be scored with a knife, but not cut through. This will allow the foam to bend into the corner without needing adhesives (tape and glue).

If you continue your design on a new sheet or another part of the same graph paper, compare the edges where the sides will meet to ensure they are the same height; line up 2-story walls that meet and 1-story walls that meet at an edge.

Compare frequently! The front and rear elevations will usually be the same width; the left and right elevations will usually be the same width.

Take care that the height of windows and doors on different sides of the house are true to your design--usually window sills will be at the same height and doors will be the same height and width.

If you are using symmetry as an element of design, take time to identify and mark the center of your facade/front elevation; measure windows and doors from this point to ensure a pleasing symmetrical effect.

Take care that any gables are the same height and angle for the two opposing sides of the house where they appear; if the roof line is not symmetrical as a deliberate design decision, the two sides should be reflections (mirror images) of each other when stacked together.

Compare all places where the elevations meet to ensure the scale and measurement are correct.

Buckminster Fuller twin dome house design.

Japanese contemporary design, Okinawa, Japan.

Precision and Scale are Important!

"Stonehenge" from This is Spinal Tap, Rob Reiner, 1984

Transferring to Foamboard

Once your design has been approved by the Architectural Board, select foam board of the right size for your design; work at the edges of large pieces to enable other students to use the remainder of larger pieces of foam board.

Secure the corners of your blueprint to the foam board using masking tape (the adhesive on masking tape will peel off cleanly from the foam board when the project is complete; the adhesive on transparent tape will tear the outer paper layer on the foam board).

Using a straight edge, retrace the outline of the front elevation and key elements (doors, windows, gables) to be cut from the foam board; mark the edges where the facade and right elevation, right and rear, and rear and left elevations will meet with dashed lines so the teacher or adult volunteers know where to cut and where to score (scratch) the foam board.

Wolf Schijns, Vernacular Architecture of the Dogon

Updated: 8 August 2017

Webpage maintained by the Active Learning Experiences in Resourceful Thinking (ALERT) classes of Richland School District Two, Columbia, South Carolina.Please direct queries to Mr. Kevin Durden.