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oldlady, thanks for the offer but it's really not necessary! We make our own molds for the pendant shapes. I really appreciate your kind thoughts, though.

We actually had a big flood in the last few days, haven't viewed the handbuilt videos yet but thanks for sending, Pres. I do already know sort of how to make handbuilt mugs, but am struggling to make them look less childlike while not using double or triple the time it takes to make them on the wheel. Labor time of course figures into our final prices.

One more quick question about the re-glazing...do pieces generally shrink AGAIN if they are re-fired? I was planning not to re-glaze the broken handle pieces as it's the inside of the mug that matters more (a few spots left bare by glaze). But I worry that the handle pieces won't match up to the body anymore if the mug body shrinks.

Thanks, everyone. The problem is it's a painted cup with a pretty intricate design and there's only one. Even worse, the artist who actually owned the pottery wheel left the studio and took it with him after I finished a few mugs, so we can only make hand-built mugs from now on and I'm still working out the most time-efficient design. Well, the truly worst thing is that the breakage is from total stupidity, as I literally dropped something onto the handle.

The person who was going to buy it is affiliated with the studio so he's pretty understanding about it (as long as there's a discount), but it's a bummer. I was kind of imagining that the glue would hold just long enough for the glaze to get liquid (although as mentioned in my first post, I don't think this glaze is particularly runny) and then seal it after the glue burns off. So great if that could actually happen!

Three times. I thought the original ceramics teacher/kiln manager told me that firing fewer times might result in weaker pieces...but we have lots of miscommunications due to language barrier! I've never tried underglaze on greenware. Clear glaze is done by dipping. We don't have a sprayer, but wish we did!

Prior to coming here, I had very rarely used underglaze and didn't know much about it. I would worry about painting on greenware because I imagine mistakes can't be fixed as easily as on bisque, although for pendants that's less important than a piece that took more time to build.

So my confusion with the paper clay is...if the paper burns out, would this not leave tons of tiny holes and weaken the clay after firing? Honestly, I don't know how it works but am just trying to imagine it. I did a little searching on this and am seeing that it's stronger to build with than plain clay, but in my mind the lighter result after firing would be even more delicate than before.

Trying it now, not great results. Although the wax seems thin, it's just because it's so hot. Turpentine helped. But it seems our glazes--rarely used, since we use underglaze and clear glaze the most--are just too thick for multiple dippings. Do most of you mix thinner glazes just for the purpose of using for wax resist designs? Many that I saw online seemed to have been dipped 3 to 4 times.