My question. She still is asked. Does anyone know of an SKS styled .22lr. I saw one at my local gun store a few weeks ago and meant to ask about it then. It had no info and no name and I have no photo, but it looked very similar to an SKS and I was about THIS close to buying it. If I ever remember to I will go back and take a picture.

1st February 2012
Last edited by PrusseluskenV2; 1st February 2012 at 11:33PM.
Post #11

If it was an actual (or close to actual) SKS it is most likely a custom job - probably from scratch, I don't see how it could have been converted without so much work and time put into it it wouldn't even be worth it.

Are you completely sure it was a dedicated .22 though? It might have been an original 7,62x39 with a modified barrel, bolt and magazine..

But as N-21_Aden posted.. was it just something that looked slightly similar to an SKS?

My question. She still is asked. Does anyone know of an SKS styled .22lr. I saw one at my local gun store a few weeks ago and meant to ask about it then. It had no info and no name and I have no photo, but it looked very similar to an SKS and I was about THIS close to buying it. If I ever remember to I will go back and take a picture.

I've been looking for a rifle with my set budget and I think the Mosin is the right one, anything I need to know about said rifle?

Before you buy one check the following:
Is the bore shiny, and is it counterbored? It should have the original muzzle; not a slightly wider bore at the muzzle.
Is the rifling intact, and if so, is it in good condition?
Is the bolt sticky? Is there any visible cosmoline residue on the bolt, receiver and locking lug recesses?Does it feed the last round properly? Many nuggets suffer from a too steep ramp on the follower and you might need to take a dremel to it if the rim bites onto the follower.
Does the interruptor depress as it should?Do the serials match?
Is the bolt head the original one, or is at least the factory stamp on the bolt head the same as the rest? If the rifle is a complete match then there is no need to check headspace, but if you're unsure whether it's the original bolt head from the factory, you'll want to find someone with Go-, No go- and Field-gauges for 7,62x54R.

If you are to shoot surplus ammo, can you handle the responsibility of cleaning the rifle very well after each shooting session? If you forget to clean once and retrieve your rifle from your gun locker a week later, you might find yourself with a rifle with a brown, flaky bore.

The carbines have much harsher recoil than the long ones.
Soviet carbines:
M38 - shorter M91/30 without brass stamped into the sling holes
M44 - shorter M91/30 with brass stamped into sling holes, features a permanently mounted folding bayonet - Unless you plan to shoot with the bayonet extended, you need to adjust the front sight - these have a point of impact change with the bayonet folded or removed!!!
Soviet standard length:
M91 - original rifle, these use Arshins instead of metres on the sight, sling swivels, sled rear sight
Dragoon - modified M91 for cavalry use
M91/30 - modern M91, the one most seen. Detachable bayonet that goes around the front sight

A few small "rules":
Finnish nagants (E.g. M91/59, M28, M29) are better than Soviet/Russian ones.
If the rifle has a hexagonal receiver (the front is angled multiple times sides instead of being round) it's worth shelling out the extra 10-50 bucks as they are considered rarer and more collectible.

I really want to go shooting, but the last time I checked .300 mag ammunition is too expensive to go shooting for fun. I really need to find a .22 or something, all I have is some old ass, tiny revolver.

pssh mythbusters just goes for big "bang" and flashiness, they don't test individual bullets within a caliber.

(hence why I call it crap)

box of truth tests SS109

With the ~13 inches of paper they were using in that experiment, they could have penetrated it with .30-06 AP or even 7.62x54R out of a dragunov or nugget. Instead they opted for big-ass catridges like the .338 lapua (or was it norma?)