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then you will not be surpirsed that I was excited to jump on board another Fodorite’s Portugues Camino route this past July. Cruiseluv opened an invitation to join her and her friends on their quest, so I did. But being the wimp I am, the entire portion from Tui to Santiago did not really appeal to me, not only because of the distance, but because I was reluctant to leave my husband for so long in the probable case he did not accompany me.

So I decided to do just the last four days with them.

Once I had decided to go, I quickly secured cheap Ryanair flights from Valencia to Santiago for 80E round trip, alter making cancellable reservations at cruiseluv’s excellent chosen accommodations.

I flew early one morning, arriving in Santiago around 8 a.m. I took the airport bus to the bus station and hopped on the next bus to Noia to do some coastal strolling.

The tide was out, so not as picturesque as with water, but the lovely historical buildings were well worth the excursión. I had a pleasant breakfast and alter a couple hours I took another bus back to Santiago and then another bus from the same station to MY starting point of this hike, Caldas de Rei. The bus information booth had given me the schedule for Caldas so I made sure I was not going to be waiting around too long between buses. However, that said, it is a GREAT place to socialize. 90% of the passengers waiting are Camino newbies from all over the world, wondering which dock their bus will leave from. Then a few old pros and bus station personnel inform them . Lots of pilgrims here catching a bus to the end of the trail at Finisterre more than anywhere else it seemed.

That is a day trip many like to do to put the icing on the final stretch. Some walk.. some ride. Coming this far I am sure they feel.. “ I’ve got to go see the end of the world here”. Many actually burn their shoes or clothes when they arrive there to represent the start of a new phase of Life.

I stayed at this hotel, Hotel Cruceiro, http://www.hotelcruceiro.com for two nights. This first night alone and then next with our small group. This turned out to be a very good choice. There was a supermarket across the street and it was close to most everything. I had a huge lunch menu of the day there and then scoped out the area finding the reccommended restaurant for dinner for the next night and retired early. I even found a sewing shop where the woman kindly and cheaply fixed one of the pulls on my knapsack.

The next morrning I knew cruiseluv and her friends (I had never met any of them) would be leaving Pontevedra for a long 23km walk. My plan was to get up leisurely and meet them (me walking TOWARDS Pontevedra) wherever that might be. As I was leaving town looking for the Camino's shell indicator,

more than one person tried to stop me to tell me I was going the wrong way!! “Señora.. señora!! “ Santiago was in THAT direction!. I can understand their concern.. but I was able to smile and let them know my plan.

So off I went.. alone.. thinking of how glad I was to have decided to make this journey. Especially alter the following:

Several days before my departure I saw a post from my cousin on Facebook saying that the next day the family and friends were doing a “5 km. memory walk” in honor of their beloved son, who sadly, was killed a few years ago.

Suddenly, I got such a deep inspiration to dedicate MY 50 km. walk to him that this hike became all the more important. I have never done a walk for cancer or “run” for anything.. so this meant a lot to me to be able to dedicate my efforts to his memory.

I found a nice photo of him, put it in a plastic frame in my pocket and documented many of the stops along the way. We had meals together, stopped in front of churches together and basicaly I felt like I was walking with him, my cousin and her family. He slept on my nightstand next to my bed every night. I posted frequently on FB so they could “feel and see ” the beauty and spirituality of doing this walk, mostly by myself, but with him close to my heart and in my thoughts literally.... all day long.

Living here, it would have been so easy just to skip this walk it and to do it some other time. It required very little pre-planning compared to someone who has to arrange international flights, etc. But the fact I could finally meet cruiseluv, after so many years here on Fodors, was a catalyst for thinking it should be a fun experience. And I was right. It was a wonderful experience..

Well.. it was mostly fun and wonderful…. I will get to that point later.

I set out with my photo, water, fruit,belongings and phone/camera and started documenting my journey.

My cousin's son and his family were on my mind everywhere I went, but in a soothing way. It was very fulfilling to realize how much I was thinking about people I dearly love and wishing I could alleviate their eternal sorrow. I do't think I have ever found one group of people in my thoughts as much as on this trip.

After a couple hours of walking a tall man coming towards me on the trail asked me if I was looking for “Maria”. I said “yes”. “Oh.. so you are her friend.. Here she comes!”.

And that was how I met cruiseluv on the trail. I had never seen a picture of her.. maybe I expected her to be older. I hadn’t really given it much thought! It was so nice to finally put a face to a name. They knew it would be easy to spot ME.. as I was walking against the logical flow of traffic! So I was simply waiting for someone to lock eyes with me, really, and introduce themselves!

I was introduced to her dear friends from “way back”. After a while, walking and chatting together, we saw a hand written sign that said “BAR 30 meters” with an arrow pointing away from the trail. On a trail like this, this requires some investigation.. and ... it was time to stop! Luckily it was only a few meters away. We treated ourselves to some delicious local cheese, freshly made tortilla de patata and cool drinks. These “down times” on the camino at the local bars and cafés, or under a tree, are the only different thing one does all day besides walk.. and walk.. drink water.. take photos.. and walk and walk some more.

You will be surpirsed at how liberating it is to have nothing else to do to muddle your mind with plans. Just follow the yellow markers. Enjoy the scenery.. and let your mind wander as you wander through the Spanish countryside, stepping on the same ground that pilgrims did centuries ago. You will pass the churches they prayed at. You will see the mountains and fields that surrounded them.

The Camino Portuguese is more isolated and less serviced than the French one. I am not sure I would feel comfortable alone on this trail during the entire time. On the other hand we had some long walks in forests that were a real treat. I did miss the animals, though, that one encounters on the French trail. All these towns are near the sea and its rivers so fishing is the main industry here. We saw a few sheep near the end, but that was about it.

I would make a point of trying to walk with people I had met, although that can be a challenge seeing that everyone walks at a different speed. I have realized that I am SLOW and on this particular trip .. was stopping to take more pictures than usual. I was also carrying a backpack with 5 days' worth of clothes and found that my back would bother me if I didn´t stop to rest.

Lin - I am joining in and walking the camino with you, albeit in a virtual fashion. It's a part of Spain that i have never seen so I'm looking forward to seeing, hearing and tasting it through you - and cruisluv's too of course.

and what a lovely thing to do, to dedicate the walk to your cousin's son!

I think anyone who can walk around shopping can easily pace them selves and just stop more often and do fewer kms.. it is not grueling as one might expect UNLESS you go beyond what your body would like to do. My martyr days are o-v-e-r!

I know how important it was to you to document your travels and dedicate it to the memory of your cousin's son.

It was so funny how my friends knew who you were and introduced us (instead of the other way around), lol.

Those "deviations" to enjoy simple food and vino were some of my fondest memories of the Camino.

IMO, the only negative of the trip (other than what I know you'll relate soon)was the hot weather we experienced. Cloudless blue skies make for beautiful backdrop for pictures , but its not ideal when you're walking with no shade to shelter you from the merciless sun.

It is interesting how the Camino, among other things, creates life long friendships. My wife has made friends with whom we are still in contact with, especially the daughter of a family that they encountered. She is exceptionally bright and ans pleasant her father wrote a book about his numerous Caminos.

We are also still friendly with a woman who simply walked out of her house in Santiago, hopped on a bus, got off where she thought was far enough and started walking back. She was so ill-prepared that my SIL had to lend her a pair of shoes. She said that was the way she did prepare because her friends told her, "Do not worry, Americans will help you, they bring everything."

Sorry for the delay! I was away and will try to finish this up quickly.

So, we walked and talked for awhile but soon saw a hand-written sign pointing to a bar/café a few meters in the wrong direction. We settled in and ordered a plate of local cheese and shared an entire freshly made tortilla de patata! I love these moments on the trail.. snacks.. chatting.. resting.. there's no rush for us as we have accommodations waiting for us. But eventually we need to move on!

We amble forward to our town.. Caldas de Rei, past old churches and with red roof tops in the distance as we approach more dense civilization, where I had already stayed the night before. Our hotel , O' Ceiro, was well chosen by cruiseluv..

...clean, simple, and an excellent price. But do ask for a room at the back as it is on the main road and I was a bit bothered by the traffic. I made sure to get the others back side rooms before they came once I saw the situation, and I , too, was lucky to be able to be moved later before nightfall. I would definitely stay there again.

We decide to meet up later to go out for dinner. A riverside restaurant, O Muino, had been recommended to me.. so we headed there as soon as we thought they'd be open. Caldas has everything you could need. Nice shopping, supermarkets and repair stores. I got my backpack belt fixed at a sewing shop for almost nothing the day before.

The slow moving river is pleasant to watch as locals throw branches for their dogs to retrieve and children dare themselves to get wet at the edge of some flat rocks.

The town also has a spa hotel which allows you to use their pool area all day for 12E. We didn´t use it but for some it would have been a welcome activity, I am sure.

We had a delicious dinner at O Muino, savoring pulpo, ( octopus) and some delicious, VERY tender grilled pork rib meat called " Lágrimas de ibérico" that was to die for. But most fun was cruiseluv and her friends saw two girls they had been chatting with since the beginning of their journey, meeting up in every town and on the trail. They joined us and it was a lot of fun to have them also at the table as they were very funny and energetic.

Since everyone basically walks the same number of miles everyday, faces are familiar ad friendships are created.. some superficial and others will last a lifetime. This is what I think is so special about this type of walk in this place. I doubt this happens anywhere else.. where so any people are doing the same thing, relaxing at the same places, etc. and sometimes eating at the same restaurants ... day after day.

We go back to the hotel, but first the group decides it is too hot to walk in much sunlight the next day so we decide to leave VERY early in the morning to begin our day, forgoing breakfast at the hotel because they didn´t even open until 7 a.m.

Note to all pilgrims: Pay for your room when you check in, even if they don´t ask you to. I don't know what this receptionist ( multi-tasker also running the restaurant) was thinking.. but, he wasn't running the financial side of the hotel very well for the owner.

I paid for my room when I arrived after dinner so as not to be bothered later. But my colleagues were unable to as they arrived much later.

Our plan was to leave around 6 a.m. and trek forward. But those good intentions all came to an end when there was no one downstairs to pay for their rooms. This place didn´t even take a CC to guarantee them, plus, since my friends were shipping their luggage forward each day to the next place with the wonderful Xacotrans service, they understandably did not want to leave three suitcases in the dark vestibule until the receptionist arrived... which we realized would probably not be until 7 a.m.

So two of us left looking for a breakfast place or open bread store, to no avail. In spite of being a heavily travelled pilgrim stopover, in our part of town there were no services for any early birds.

We were later on the road as soon as Mr. Receptionist/ Restaurnat manager arrived. For some reason we assumed he was living in the same building, as there was a cell phone number to call and everything, but he never answered it. It worked out well for everyone. The hotel got their money ( which I highly doubt someone wearing a knapsack would have waited to do) and the suitcases were well guarded ..and it proved to us how patient pilgrims learn to be!!! LOL!!

Today we are walking to Padrón.. 18 km. This is a very easy amount for me to walk. 15, 18, 20 kms and I am fine. More than that I need to rest more or have cooler weather. Remember, I am not a "walker" and do not "train" for this short journey. I just go to have a good time, see new scenery, eat good food and hopefully forge new friendships and put myself into a more desirable mind frame for my personal life.

This day of walking was absolutely beautiful.. alongside fields of hay, cabbages, vineyards.. walking under trellises of green unripe grapes.. with lovely rolling hills and cool, shaded forest trails most of the way. I enjoyed chatting with some of the local owners while they were in their fields either cutting and collecting a huge patch of hay for their animals or watering some vegetable garden by hand because it hadn´t rained for weeks, which is quite unusual in that area. The one couple cutting hay allowed me to take their picture although they couldn't understand why everyone wanted a picture of them and commented they must be famous by now.. known across the globe!

The absence of farm animals on this trail compared to the popular French trail was quite obvious. Of course I had forgotten how close we were to the sea and most families here made their money in the fishing industry. .. and many did quite well for themselves by the look of some of the well built houses in the small towns. Whatever animals they own are for personal consumption. I saw a couple sheep and chickens. Not much else to document on this trail as far as animals go. On the French trail you actually have to step aside at times as mama leads a small herd of cows back to the barn for dinner!

A large group of Italians were also on the trail today. They would disembark from their bus at strategic places and once were having an outdoor mass in front of an old church. They would then walk 5-8 kms or so and be picked up by their bus and taken to their accommodations. They were very jovial and some were quite concerned when they came upon me resting with my backpack on off my back under a tree. I assured them with a smile I was just resting, but it is encouraging to know there is always someone to help you out should you need it.

I walked alone a lot as the day went on because although we started out together.. each person's stride and rhythm is different. I was going much slower also because I was very keen on documenting the trail in much more detail that I was dedicating to my cousin's son.. so i was getting out my phone and taking pictures constantly, which slowed me down.

I learned from the last time that this is just how it is. It is a nice feeling if everyone in your group agrees each person does his own thing and no hurt feelings if others don't slow down or speed up to be together. if you are not comfortable with that, best to find someone who will be sure to regulate themselves to you.. or you may have some difficult moments.

This evening I had decided to book a different place to stay from the group only because their hotel would not give me a reduced single rate and I found there were plenty of places for me to sleep as a single nearby at 1/5 the cost. I was really excited with my choice when the first hostal sign I saw as we approached Padrón was mine!

Hostal Flavia

I had a 10E -shared room with a bathroom across the hall and another one to the left. It was a mixed hostal but the owner ASSURED me she would not put a male in either of the two remaining beds. In fact.. she put no one there.

This hostal had a complete kitchen, washing machine, free laundry detergent, many clotheslines, a couple bathrooms with shower and bathtub, microwave and small library . It would have been a nice place to stay two nights or so and get re-energized and clean clothes if one had needed that. Downstairs was a popular highly rated typical restaurant with its own outdoor terrace and I was a 10 minute walk from cruiseluv. Good choice! Not luxurious and definitely not upgraded bathrooms, but more than sufficient for me.

After a relaxing shower and light nap I ventured into town to the tree-lined area next to the river for lunch. I caught up with my texts and posting photos through the free wifi you can find most anywhere. I called the group and we would meet up a little later. .. under the trees.. to soak up the pleasant atmosphere in this historic town.

And here is my next suggestion to first-timers or those who have not been to this part of Spain before. Once in awhile take TWO nights in a nice town to actually get a better feel for the history of that town, if you can. Unless it is " all about the trail".. getting to actually go inside a monastery or museum and not just see most things from the outside, is rewarding. Too many times people RUSH along the trail, even walking several kms. in the dark where they cannot see a thing without their miner's lamp.. and then have not had time to visit anything once they get to town. Of course, perhaps they really don't want to, which is fine. But this is an important idea to keep in mind if you are doing a once-in-a-lifetime trip here. How fast or slow do you want to move through this area?

I tend to think a lot of people, when it is over, if they could do it again, might go a little slower and smell the hydrangeas or the hay a bit more.

I say those previous comments as you do see mostly one-night stands. This may be because so many people have not very many vacation days, so I say.. if you DO have extra days.. maybe pick a popular or quaint town or nice country inn along the way to sit back and kick off those boots!

Cruiseluv.. I am not criticizing your plan.. don't want you to think that! ( We had no miner's lamps.. so I hope you realize I was not referring to us!). I found my husband's trip the same.. one night stands. I think next time I may add a night here and there to make it two. On a short trip like mine this time, it would be "unnecessary" to sit back and relax more than I did.. but a much longer journey would merit more "down" time, in MY opinion.. just something to keep in mind if planning to come over.

I always looked forward to our meals and snacks together. That is the great part of this whole journey. As you wander around the town in the afternoon, early evening, you tend to say hello to familiar faces you have seen walking that day.. sometimes exchanging more than a few words. People will tell you about the great guesthouse they are in.. or were in the night before., and where they will be stopping the next day.

I don´t remember where we actually went to eat that night, but I do remember we sat outside under the trees at a café for hours it seemed, enjoying the shade.
I just remembered where we ate! Not the name, but the long outside table we got with our group and the two girls who had joined us earlier. It was a very popular place

And when in Padrón, one must eat "Pimientos de Padrón". The small green peppers that can burn your mouth if you get one of the HOT ones. They are roasted and salted and very soft. You touch the tip of your tongue to see if it burns and then if not, gently bite the tip and pull.. so the stem and seeds slide out and you only eat the outer part.

After dinner the group was not ready to go to bed, but since I had to walk further back to my place and alone, I did set out before it got too late and called it a day.

First we reconfirmed we would meet for breakfast at a decent hour at a traditional funky place whose gregarious owner seemed to LIVE to service the pilgrims! He assured us he would be open from 6 a.m on!

When I got back to my hostal I had a decaf coffee before going to bed and chatted with the girl running the restaurant for a bit.

I was happy to see there was no commotion upstairs in the hostal, in spite of there being at least three or four rooms of travelers. I collected the clothes I had hand washed off the line, took a quick shower and got into my comfortable bed after setting the alarm to be sure to get to our breakfast meeting point tomorrow morning on time.

It's a great feeling to go to bed at time and not have any obligation whatsoever but to get dressed, have some breakfast and start walking. No bus routes to figure out or museums to pre-buy tickets for.. just WALK. Such a different vacation than one usually takes.

Hi Lin - have very much enjoyed keeping up with your trip report, however, once again I am turning to you for advice on another subject - we 'spoke' once before about my upcoming trip (Madrid -
Barcelona - Catalonia Pyrenees)...I am frustrated in attempting to purchase renfe tix online, rd trip Madrid-BCN-Madrid - I get nowhere once on their site, am I missing something? are there tricks to advancing on their purchase site? am I attempting a purchase too far in advance of our mid-late October visit? hope you can help, thank you

Lin, no offense taken! I know exactly what you mean and that would be my preference too. Specially this time that it was so hot i was so focused on walking quickly , mainly in the areas
wih no shade, so I could get early to our destination. Many times I forgot to stop and "smell the flowers". I would love to organize such a Camino , the only problem being it would take twice as long!

Thomas, just before this trip and for the first time ever I was able to book/ purchase tickets on the Renfe site! I was sooo excited as I had never been able to before. Did you register with them? Also, did u call ur credit card and advise in advance of the purchase? I used a Chase master card. Maybe Lin will have other strategies. Purchasing for travel mid October should not create a problem. Good luck!

thanks luv - yes I registered - but I literally cannot get past the first step! the site gives me no options for 'purchase'
nor 'continue' (consequently I'm not even at the cc issue) - can anyone elucidate?

I have no problem for mad-barcelona-madrid. are you sure you are piutting in madrid with a *, and Barcelona with a star? maybe you have chosen a station that doesn´t have service.. like Madrid-- whatever in Barcelona?

So.. today, after our fun breakfast, we realize there is a fine, misty rain accompanying us.. hopefully a relief from the sweltering heat. I am very happy we started early and know my family would not believe it if I called them right now. But being the nice guy I am, i refrain from calling them and waking them up.

Luckily I brought a HIDEOUS green garbage bag type poncho some guests had just left at my house the previous week from their unusually wet Rome trip. I understand why they thought they'd never wear it again..but I had packed it in CASE we had a drizzle here and there.

I made my friends take a photo of me because the mild wind filled up the bag through the sleeves and from the open bottom and I looked like the spinach Michelin man on steroids before the balloon would burst. It was hysterical.

Feeling a bit conspicuous.. I finally took the darn thing off, but really, it was hardly misting any longer, so it was not needed. Whew! Now that I think of it.. maybe that's why the group sped up so much on this part of the trail? LOL!

One thing that surprised me was the small amount of pilgrims on this trail, and thus, the few places ON the trail for services. There were sufficient places during the day to get something to eat,have a coffee and use a clean bathroom, but there weren't a lot to choose from when you did find one. You seemed to only have one choice, at a crossroad or along a busier street once we hit the next very small town.

For that reason if you are going alone you really need to know where you are going and what is there for you. Several excellent books have been mentioned on camino websites although I have not read any of them. I have frequented some of the blogs, but I had to do nothing for this trip (what a LUXURY) so I did not make an inquiries at all.

As the day wears on, I am thinking not only of my cousin, her family and their son and other children, but my own family, parents, ( deceased and still here) as I put one foot in front of the other, stride after stride. At times I am almost overwhelmed with emotion and gratitude for the Life I have had, the people I have met.. as well as the sadness I have experienced and seen other places or with other people. I hope grief somehow can be replaced with some accumulation of memories that soften the emptiness.

My Chicagoland sister-in-law passed away this spring on the day of our son's USA wedding reception, so it has not been an easy year by any means. I thought of my brother often and how we had hoped to do part of the Camino one day with the two of them.

I go over in my head how to make a better future for all who are near me..and how I can swing going back to Cambodia to help on a project there.. I think about my kids and where their next job will come from when their projects are finished.. if my husband will get more work.. if I will, too.... If my mother will ever be able to take another car trip with me. .. so much to think about.

I think about all this and more and before I know it, I've walked a few more miles. But I am smiling now because there is only one day left; the rest of today and then tomorrow the grand arrival in Santiago. How exciting!

Today we were obviously closer to Santiago so it isn't unusual to see more gardens, pets and everyday Life. We passed an old dog laying in a ditch, with an erect head, that didn't move when we approached. It made me remember one of our old German Shepherds right before we had him put down. He would go out and never come back. We would find him laying somewhere.. just like this fellow.. with too much hip pain to get himself up to come home, but wagging his tail when he saw us come to rescue him. He was only with us a few days after that.

That was my only explanation for this gray-haired dog.

Lots of flowers today. More gardens. A proud housewife watering the gorgeous cascading petunias along her huge wrap-around terrace.

Dogs would bark as we passed their gates. A couple lone sheep looked up and I saw a tethered donkey in a field. But no abundance of animals, as I have mentioned.

After a while I had become separated again from the threesome or the twosome.. depending on their status also. No problem, but I stopped in a café that suddenly sprouted up down the road, hoping to see them there.

It was empty, but I decided to stop and have a bite to eat before I continued.

I was offered a piece of tortilla de patata. I couldn't help but compare it to the one I had had with the group that first day. I don't know if it was the TLC the cook put into it or the company, but that first one was MUCH better than this one. I trust it was a bit of both. But it did hit the spot. Potatoes and eggs always fill a hungry tummy, that's for sure.

The Camino here follows a main local road for a bit but soon slips into the trees and countryside. These past days there were not many road stretches at all to be mentioned. But the Camino Francés has a few that are longer than desired, to say the least.

After an hour or so i wonder if I am going to catch up with my friends before we hit the hotel. I finally stop for coffee at an adorable place and find out that they had just left there 10 minutes earlier. Knowing that there is no way to catch up I sit down at an outdoor table and order a café con leche. I chat with the owner and she informs me I have only about 1 km. before the hotel we will be staying at.

What great news! Most of the time I am totally oblivious as to how much further we need to go, unless I see a sign somewhere. It doesn't really matter much to me.

Knowing I had so little distance to go, I sat back and really relaxed and retraced what a nice day it had been in spite of the drizzles at the beginning that fortunately dried up quite quickly.

And then my Camino came to a shattering end. I couldn't stop it from happening. Within a minute I had stood up, lost my footing and gone toppling onto a concrete slab floor, hit my head and, quickly discovered, broken my wrist.

I had stood up from the outdoor table and pushed back the light aluminum chair to step away from the table and gather my knapsack. But I couldn't gather anything. I took a step aside and backwards and suddenly was halted by a large, immobile parasol base with no umbrella in it. I tripped backwards and tried to stop myself from falling but never regained my footing and crashed head and wrist first onto the concrete.

The rest is still traumatic for me to think about.. but I am grateful that the head trauma was where it was. A few pilgrims stopped immediately to help. The bar owner was screaming at her husband to call an ambulance, I was also telling him the same as I tried to roll over off of my injured side.

To make along story short, everyone involved did a fabulous job of tending to my welfare. The bar owner went to get cruiseluv at the hotel.. the pilgrims help text her and also take off my rings of my swelling fingers and put them in a safe compartment of my knapsack. They also took down my name and important info in case I should lose consciousness at any moment. They were really fantastic.

But I just kept hearing " mas toallas, por favor". ( more towels, please) from the fellow at my side ( I never opened my eyes much during this ordeal). This fellow was Irish.. he had the most distinct accent. He took wonderful care of me. I am forever indebted to him and his female friend who "took over " until the ambulance came.

I think cruiseluv was in a bit of a state of shock herself when she arrived ( thanks to the bar owner's husband who had gone to get her) and saw the panorama. We spoke for a moment but I discouraged her from coming with me to the hospital as I assumed I would be there most of the day and perhaps overnight. The ambulance took me to Santiago where they eventually took care of everything. X-rays.. cat scan.. cast.. etc.

A set wrist and 6 staples in my head, 8 hours later, I was in a taxi to our wonderful rural hotel. I could not WAIT to get cleaned up and see the rest of the group.

This country inn was such a gem ! An old stone house converted into a lovely, rustic but modernized hotel. This was the nicest of the places I stayed and also exactly they type of place I love to stay at. I would definitely stay here again as it is literally ON the trail, too!

After I got myself cleaned up, my friends had patiently waited to have dinner with me. It was wonderful to actually BE THERE. It almost felt like every other night... except there was no talk about the walk the next day for me. A family we had met in Padrón was also at our hotel.

I realized how bad this fall could have been, and although I am still suffering from the wrist and its long haul rehab.. I am very grateful for the outcome.

However, i was a bit concerned about going to sleep that night as I had been strictly warned at the hospital to look out for a huge list of symptoms and to call emergency and get to a hospital if any of them appeared...

I slept with my bedroom door open, my friends were "on alert" and all went well.

I got up early to have a snack with my friends before they set off and say goodbye to them as they started off on their last day of this wonderful journey. We hugged and kissed and sent best wishes and arranged to meet later that night for dinner in Santiago.

I watched them leave... and I have to admit I almost had a tear in my eye. It is shocking how things can change from one minute to the next.

It was too early for me to start my day so I went back to my room and actually slept very well for a couple hours after a very uncomfortable first night with my broken wrist and head trauma. I woke up revitalized and ready for a hearty breakfast which the inn owner laid before me . He buttered my toast and tore open the paper sugar packets for my coffee. Oh my, am I an invalid! Left wrist and I am left-handed. I hoped I would quickly learn how to feed/ dress myself!

I later packed up and caught a taxi to my next hotel in Santiago. When the taxi arrived at the historical section of Santiago... I felt so strange, almost melancholy, arriving in this town by taxi instead of on foot, as we passed many pilgrims, grateful but also a bit sad that the end was near.

I was staying at a different hotel here, one that I had always wanted to stay in and my husband would be joining me for the weekend.

The rooms are very clean but there is no TV. The rooms have a modern updated bathroom. About 60E/double. There are plenty of lounging rooms, one at least with a television, others more for reading. There are also single pilgrim rooms for 20E that are small but with the original bathrooms. Breakfast was simple. This is a very popular place and very authentic, as are many of the accommodations in this lovely city.

I got settled in my room and after resting decided to go to get my "Compostela". One receives a special certificate if you have walked over 100 km.

On this trip I had NOT, but my previous trip I had, so I waited in the slow-moving line to get this paper. My distance was documented on my "passport" of the Camino so there was no problem when I asked about this. On our previous trip i had not bothered to wait in line to get this paper, but this trip was so special for me that I decided it was well worth it. Besides, I had nothing else to do until dinner time!

As I was standing outside in the line, a fellow walked by and stopped and said "Oh! So you DID break your wrist after all?" ...with that lovely, distinct Irish accent.
I said "Oh..it was YOU.. wasn´t it? You helped me so much! Thank you so much" to which he said.. "No..".. and turned away a bit.. "someone told me about it"..

and I smiled, shaking my head and said.. "I'll never forget your voice.. thank you so much for taking care of me".

At that he smiled, held up his hand, waved goodbye and went on his hurried way.

Another Fodorite was volunteering in the Pilgrims' office. I had met her in Valencia once when she was doing the Camino de Levante, a very little travelled path, and was hoping to coincide here in Santiago with her. Cruiseluv was able to meet her but I was very unlucky the two times I tried. Maybe next time!

My husband arrived by train and we headed to our dinner with cruiseluv and her friends.. my three walking colleagues. The wind-down after a walk ( and mine was so short, but still, it was the end, albeit a short jaunt) is a curious feeling. Off come the walking clothes and shoes (usually). Hair gets washed and dried nicely. Maybe make-up? Then the conversations of the memories of the phases keep coming up in conversation.

All of us had different plans for the rest of the weekend. Cruiseluv going off to the end of the trail at Muxia by bus while we were going to visit some friends for the weekend who have a house nearby on the beautiful Galician coast.

From Santiago you are just a short bus or train ride away from some of the most spectacular coastline and small fishing villages. Try to see a little more if you come. You won't be disappointed. Public transport is excellent and prices are, too.

I am sure I have left out some interesting details, but only having walked a few days, I'l let cruiseluv fill in gaps in HER trip report ( hoping she makes one of her entire journey!).

I am so grateful she allowed me to join them on their pre-planned journey. I hope this report encourages others to do a few days or weeks of any of the trails that lead to the amazing town of Santiago de Compostela.

lincasanova-I'm sorry for your accident too.Which hospital did they take you to,public or private?
Some years ago, I fell down a hotel flight of stairs-wooden,thank goodness, in Santiago.It was Good Friday and I wanted to see one more procession.I didn't realize I had broken my wrist until I stood up! The owner rushed me to the public hospital because she said it was better. The three orthopedic surgeons pulled in all directions to set my wrist and did a great job-it was called a skater's break. When I came back to the States, the doctor said they did super and all he did was change the cast to a lighter one-they still used the old fashioned plaster of paris type-and extended the cast past my elbow.
When I tried to file with my insurance company they refused to pay because I had not got the treatment approved while in Spain!I was not in any condition to make the call at midnight!The hospital in Spain told me to forget about paying it!

I broke my shoulder in Galicia in June - the first (and hopefully last) broken bone I will ever have to endure in this lifetime. I am grateful it was not a head injury because it easily could have been. Very glad to hear you made it to the end and I hope you are on the mend.

I was first taken to a private hospital, transferred form gurney and then the questions about insurance began. The bar owner had not given enough direct insurance company information so I was asked to use my own insurance or credit card which I refused.

After much to-do I finally just told them to either fix my head or take me to the public hospital where I have a Spanish insurance card via my husband. I was not interested in putting cat scans and tests on my CC to claim later to anyone so off we went: Transfer back to ambulance gurney and off we went.

I put a written complaint against them later the next day. I was furious.

I was given the authentic Compostela since I had walked much more than 100 km. all told from my last trip when I didn´t request the Compostela. ( The line was so long I didn't have the energy or desire to even get it at that point that year). At the bottom they also allow you to dedicate it to someone, so I dedicated it to my cousin's son.

Thank you for the good wishes. I don't want my accident to overshadow the wonderful Camino experience, but at least you can see you will be well taken care of should something happen along the way!

Rialtogirl, I was following your broken shoulder situation on FB. I'm glad to see you are still roaming and grape-hopping!

Thank you! I'm trying to see when to go do a few more kms.. was thinking the Fall seems like a better time to go to avoid the heat, but with all the rain I've seen these weeks up there, I'm not sure I would prefer that over the sun. We shall see. I think a couple friends have become convinced this is doable and no great feat if portioned out in a gentle fashion.

I will never be an avid walker, doing 100's of kms.. but a week here and there and maybe another 100 km. walk is definitely on the radar in the very near future.

Physical therapy is certainly a challenge. My heart goes out to those who are constantly and chronically suffering deep pain on a daily basis. It certainly would put one in a grumpy mood. Mine is intermittent.. but annoying and debilitating. I will give it another week, but if I don't start to see a lot more improvement I will be very worried.

When I saw you being wheeled into that ambulance I was hoping you wouldn't notice the shock in my face, but obviously you did. I think it was seeing your lovely hair covered in blood that impacted me the most! You have no idea how much I berated myself for not continuing walking with you thinking the accident would not have happened if I had.You're a very strong person, I was so impressed that under the circumstances you could maintain a conversation with the EMT guys about what hospital to go to, insurance issues, etc. And then , when you came back by cab and join us for dinner, wow! Other than the cast in your arm nobody could have told you had been through such an ordeal a few hours before. You're the poster child for the saying "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade".

I'm very happy to hear that you're already planning another walk. Although during/ right after the walk I said I didnt have another Camino in me I'm turning around on that and the Camino is beckoning. My friends also want to go back. Its difficult to let go of the Camino.

Hang in there with physical therapy, be patient. I've had broken ankle and surgery of both shoulders and the recovery was also a bit brutal but amazingly it all goes away eventually.

I know, cruiseluv.. about on a long, hot day saying "no way am I doing this again!!".. but as you see... it is something in you.. isn't it?

Thank goodness you were all there to have dinner with. I couldn't WAIT to get to that wonderful little hotel and see you guys.

Maybe I wouldn't have fallen if I had been with more people. You were all there ahead of time, and probably sat at the same tables.. and didn't fall backwards over anything so.. who knows? This was just very very bad luck.

Maybe having my cousin's son's picture in my pocket kept me from having an even worse fall.. I told her he was my guardian angel because, as you know, I could very easily not be writing this had the head trauma been in a different place or harder or whatever.

I am hanging in with the therapy.. time will tell. I trust everyone knows what they are doing. We shall see if this is 100% correctable.

In the meantime, anyone thinking of doing the Camino.. have a wonderful time planning. Don't stress. Enjoy the company you will meet on the way.. YOUR way.. or THE WAY.

lin - when I went on holiday about 10 days ago you were just on the precipice, and I come home to find that you did almost literally fall over it! you poor thing. I so hope that the therapy goes well, and doesn't tarnish your memory of a wonderful camino.

Thank you for taking the time to post about your adventures, cast and all, it's been quite a trip! [oops, sorry about the pun].