Sweating It Out in a Temazcal

by Patrick Sheehy*

Rancho El Sagrado

I didn’t really want to go. I had heard about the
temazcal, the ancient Aztec sauna, several times before
and had always thought, "It’s 35 degrees Celsius
outside, why would I possibly want to sit in an infernally
hot sweat bath for an hour?" But I knew it would be a
good day out with Barbara and Ray, who always provide
interesting conversation, so shortly after ten on another
glorious Puerto morning we set out for San Gabriel Mixtepec.

Ray, Barbara

After an hour of beautiful scenery we reached San
Gabriel Mixtepec, and drove through the highland village
to Rancho El Sagrado, a picturesque mountain retreat
of comfortable wooden cabins and excellent hiking
trails. If you love nature this place has it all: mountains,
forests, birds, a coffee plantation and a very inviting river.
We drank good coffee and took a hike along a mountain
trail with Lalo, the owner, as our guide. We found a clearing
in the forest with a view over the valleys and trees,
and I stood and gazed and began to feel wonderful. By
the time we descended the trail everyone was smiling.

Lalo Sierra

Lalo had been heating large round stones in the
embers of a fire all morning, and these he placed in the
center of the temazcal. Every time he entered and exited
the igloo-like structure, he intoned ‘Ometeotl’, the name
of the Aztec deity who created the world. Lalo asked us
to do the same and to always enter the temezcal from
the left and to exit from the right, according to tradition.

The temazcal is an ancient custom that was very
common among tribes throughout Mesoamerica. The
sweat baths survived constant attempts by the Spanish
to eradicate them, and Indians found using a temazcal
were often brutally punished. By hiding temazcals in remote
places indigenous communities preserved what
they revered as a therapeutic practice, an instrument
used in the healing and easing of almost all ailments.

Ancient customs deserve respect, especially when
people have risked severe punishment to preserve them.
It was with this in mind that I crouched down and entered
the temazcal saying ‘Ometeotl’.

Meanwhile Ray noticed that there was a latch on
the door and explained to Lalo that he had once had a
traumatic experience in a closed space which had made
him very claustrophobic. He feared that if he was locked
inside the temazcal he would have a panic attack. Lalo
assured him the door would not be locked; he showed us
that the latch didn’t even work. Barbara was also relieved
to discover that there were small holes in the roof that
allowed daylight to filter in. She’s afraid of the dark.

Temazcal, interior

Once we were all inside, Lalo poured water and then
herbal teas onto the stones. Clouds of steam came up
and filled the chamber with intense heat. It was delicious.
The scent of the herbs was rich and invigorating, and I
started sweating profusely. I kept very still and began to
breathe deeply and slowly. I had not expected it to feel
so good. Almost immediately I entered a state of true
relaxation and my thoughts became focused on everything
I had in life to be grateful for.

Patrick

After a bit Lalo spoke up, saying he hoped we would
all benefit from the temazcal and he thanked us for coming.
He invited us to say a few words about what we
hoped to gain from the temazcal and so focus our minds
on positive intentions. We each expressed our gratitude
for the experience and spoke very positively about life
and the future. Ray was really happy about not feeling
claustrophobic and felt the temazcal was helping him
overcome it.

We sat and sweat buckets motionless and silent until
Lalo began to chant. He began with the Hindu chant of
‘Ohm’ and slowly developed it into ‘Ometeotl’. Some of
Lalo’s best temazcals have been with people who joined
in the chant. This time his guests remained silent and focussed
on positive thinking.

Río el Sagrado

After almost an hour we slowly climbed out of the
temazcal and breathed the cool, fresh, mountain air.
Things were getting pretty trippy at this stage, and I
was so high that I had to go and sit alone in a nearby
meadow. Everything made sense; there was nothing to
fear or doubt, and I had one of those ecstatic moments of
complete harmony with nature. The breeze as it rippled
through the grass, the swaying of the tall trees, the rise
and fall of the birds and butterflies in flight were all visually
enhanced, and every birdsong became a symphony,
as I inhaled the vibrant green of the surrounding forest.

Rancho El Sagrado cabins

This is my lasting impression of the temazcal and its
effects. I can’t wait for the next one!

Directions to Rancho el Sagrado: Take highway 131.
The clearly marked turn-off is on the right, just a few
minutes past the town of San Gabriel. Continue on a dirt
road, always keeping right, for 800 meters. The road ends
at the Rancho. You can also take a van to San Gabriel, and
get a taxi there.