Sounds and acts like a stripped drive gear.

The band saw has is fairly new with no more than 1 hour of continuous metal sawing time. My son was cutting sheetmetal type beams for making skateboard ramps and he showed me that the saw blade was moving as if the drive gear was stripped. It would catch and engage the blade for a breif moment and then disengage for about 2/3rds of the time. I asked him if he was rough with it and he said "no" (of course). He said he let the saw gravity feed the work as I do. Your suggestions on how to get it fixed would be much appreciated. I am very methodical and careful when repairing things but do not have an exploded view of the iner working of the saw nor a place to order parts. Please advise.

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I believe Black bull band saw is a Taiwan imported saw. They are even cheaper to HF band saws. This band saw have so many issues; make sure you align the guides, tune it up and use good bi metal band saw blades. I suggest you use the Haltbar 601 bi metal blade. I'm using Haltbar and I'm getting really nice cut.

Sounds like the cover was taken off with the brake on. On some of the Huskies, the brake is engaged with a three-part metal piece that fits into a corresponding shaped part on the cover and is engaged with a firm click on or off. The piece looks a little like the old nuclear bomb shelter signs, like three pie wedges with the narrow parts meeting in the middle. Be careful not to strip the plastic part when trying to marry these two sections together or you will be buying a new cover. I lined up both parts, made sure it was in as far as possible, put a knee on it, and snapped the chain brake off. This opened the band, and it fit once again. Note: I did this correctly the second time it happened to me. The first time resulted in a brand new pretty cover for my used saw because I tried forcing it and stripped the plastic part it the metal piece fits into. Good luck.

My jet bandsaw did same thing only fix was new tires .Tires are supposed to be tite on wheel .get wood dowels between tire and wheel and roll new tire onto wheel. If desperate could glue on with weather strip adhesive.put bandsaw blade on both tires spin wheels with power off till blade is running in center of wheel by adjusting top wheel in or out. When done adjust blade guides to blade and bearings to back of blade .This is top and bottom of cutting area

Thicker metal shows greater blade / saw adjustment errors. A simple 1/64 or 1/32 wont show much on an 1/8 thick piece of metal when cut.
Those numbers will double quickly as the cutting blade travels through thick metal.
Metal band saws seem to be trickier to adjust and fine tune because the blade seems to be twisted into the roller guides.
The downloaded manual for the saw that looked most like mine at grizzly.com helped my adjustments a lot.
The saw quality is also a factor.

My old delta has the transmission on the back for cutting metal, and it is geared way down for power, 1140 would be way to fast, It is more like 40 rpm. I don't know if even a set of step pulleys would slow you down enough. Depends on the metal. I have the step pulleys too, but never bother to change them. The transmission, you just pull out the lock in the center of the pulley and it throws it into back gears. real nice, has an oil filled gear box on the bottom. Everybody wants my band saw!

either the chain/sprocket are damaged or the gears themselves are stripped. Go to Milwaukeetool.com and you can download a schematic for this tool. If this is an older tool they made a change to a double roller chain/sprocket. Let me know if you need more help.