This is a discussion on Ninfourteener's Progress Thread + Pics within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by Sinister
Sounds more like a bolt problem than an endlink problem. What bolts did you use? OEM, ...

Sounds more like a bolt problem than an endlink problem. What bolts did you use? OEM, Perrin's or the ones that came with your sway bars? That would peeve me if Perrin ignored me though.

I gained 32.2 whp, and approximately 50wtq with my protune.

I used the bolts that came with the endlinks. They came with washers and spacers and such to make a great fitment. You'd think that since I had all Perrin parts, they'd basically fit together like clockwork...guess I was wrong. Its also quite possible I just got a bad bolt. Its a constantly moving and shifting part that handles a LOT of load between the Gs of heavy turns and the 3000+lb body of the car moving. Replacing the bolts only took an hour and $7 from Home depot...so I wasn't too pissed.

I went from 220 as the baseline, to 252.2. The biggest improvement was the curves though. Much more linear. (Actually feels like less power even though I have more!)

Sea level here in Jersey...and protuning might have been thought of as negligible, especially considering I only had the base Stage 2 mods with Cobb OTS AP flash and an upgraded TMIC...but just like Kevin says...the power curves being adjusted and perfected are what made the major difference. For granted I did gain 20% WHP and over 25% more WTQ also made it well worth it. When your power curves perform great, your AFRs are also very happy. That can also lead to much better performance because you can control your power better and know exactly what your power curve looks like

^^^ You and I have very similar mods, and similar circumstances as well.

I dunno... maybe... we'll see.

Have any problems with boost spiking, CELs, etc after the tune?

Yeah. And no. I had my tuner make 2 maps. One street and one aggressive tune for the track. I was on the street map and flooring it in third up a hill in 30 degree weather. Hit boost cut. Reset ECU, changed to my aggressive map did Vishnu trick and had no problems.

The street tune was very conservative and safe though. Only 240whp with 16psi boost

Yeah. And no. I had my tuner make 2 maps. One street and one aggressive tune for the track. I was on the street map and flooring it in third up a hill in 30 degree weather. Hit boost cut. Reset ECU, changed to my aggressive map did Vishnu trick and had no problems.

The street tune was very conservative and safe though. Only 240whp with 16psi boost

You should be at 19-20psi on your VF39 tune. Your aggressive tune should be your only tune...

the fuel pump and injectors are fine stock pavia. We have the same fp and inj flow rate as a sti. So we're basically a prutuned stage 2 sti.

I got a fuel pump for 2 reasons. One, a vf39 protune is about 90% capacity of the fp. And two... I'm getting e85 tuned for an additional 20-50whp (broad range, I know....) as soon as I get injectors... And a fp is part of that upgrade

the fuel pump and injectors are fine stock pavia. We have the same fp and inj flow rate as a sti. So we're basically a prutuned stage 2 sti.

I got a fuel pump for 2 reasons. One, a vf39 protune is about 90% capacity of the fp. And two... I'm getting e85 tuned for an additional 20-50whp (broad range, I know....) as soon as I get injectors... And a fp is part of that upgrade

Sounds good. However, I did have problems with the stockers and went with a recommended 850 inj by my tuner. That's just me though. Worked out great. Injector size should be dictated by the protuner, IMHO

You should be at 19-20psi on your VF39 tune. Your aggressive tune should be your only tune...

Incorrect. I'm at 6000 feet. Our best numbers were at 16.8lbs of boost on the aggressive tune. Because of our extreme temperature and barometric changes, it's a great idea to have a street tune. I'm assuming you don't live in a city that varies 4k feet in a half hour drive, varies from -30 to 115 degrees in seasonal changes, and can change barometric pressure 5psi in a moments notice.

^^^ You and I have very similar mods, and similar circumstances as well.

I dunno... maybe... we'll see.

Have any problems with boost spiking, CELs, etc after the tune?

Heres the thing:
Every car is different, doesn't matter if you have two identical year and model cars next to eachother. Every car reacts differently to a Custom ProTune.

Cobbs OTS Stage Maps are generic maps, ment to be capatible across the board. Therefore your car currently is not optimizing the aftermarket parts on that car to 100% either way you look at it, because of the generic tune.

Now go and get a Protune, and every bit of those aftermarket parts is being optimized to 100% of their ability. You also have several minor modifications here and there that aren't covered in the Cobb OTS Stage maps. A protune will help all of your aftermarket parts work together to get the most HP and Torque out of your car.

I too went with Perrins on my rears because of the bushings. They were solid pieces. But with the bolts tightened to spec...I lost one and the swaybar was no longer connected. I was a little pissed because I never heard back from Perrin. I had to hit up my local hardware store and come up with a bolt solution

Also for the record the Perrin "Stout mounts" for the Swaybar are garbage. They are aluminum blocks basically but are very soft. The threads ended up breaking and stripping on both of them, meaning my swaybar was no longer connected to anything! I had to put the stock mounts back on...and then they were fine from there on out

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