Calif., Russian River Valley, Foppiano, Estate Bottled Petite Sirah 2005 Opened two full hours before dinner. First taste was sharp to make me wince, but finished sweet. After an hour, medium tannins, nice pepper. With dinner, delicious. Dark, inky color, mellow, smooth tannins, blackberry and something that's often called cassis, though I don't think I ever met a cassis, but tart like that term usually describes. This was before Foppiano went through their bad years. They seem to be getting it back together again.14.5% alcohol Bought at the winery for $18 in April '09

It's a long story. Lou was getting close to 90 and didn't have the energy to keep up with the whole business, and the younger generations got involved in an Italian family squabble. (I've known some Italian families.)Because of the business, the family feud spilled over into court, the business nearly went bankrupt, and so on. A year or two ago, the situation was finally settled, leaving nobody really happy I imagine. The second winemaker they hired at about that time turned out to be pretty good, and she is making much better wines, if not quite as traditional in style as the 80s and 90s wines.It's not my story, and I don't know many details.