it is most likely your valve stem rattling, take a piece of electrical tape about 2 inches long and pull it directly over the valve stem piercing the tape in the center, then pull the tape to the rim and smooth it down.

Also the wheel seems to be out of true. I put it on the bike, cranked the peddle by hand, and the wheel wobbles side to side. I thought maybe I mounted the tire on badly. So I took the tire off and tried it again - the wheel still wobbles. Keep in mind this is new out of the box. Is there anything I could be doing wrong?

I took my Shimano Dura Ace CS-7800 cassette off my old wheel and put it on the Zipp. It had a silver spacer in the back between the hub and the cassette. I did not put this spacer on the zipp wheel because the zipp wheel came with a spacer. Did I set it up correctly or should I put that silver spacer on with the rest of the stuff?

for a shimano 11-speed compatible hub, the wheel will be supplied with a spacer, 1.85mm i think, to allow use with 8/9/10-speed cassettes

except for tiagra, a shimano 10-speed cassette is narrower than a 9-speed cassette and is supplied with a 1mm spacera sram 10-speed cassette, or a tiagra 10-speed, are the same width as a 9-speed cassette and need no 1mm spacer

afaik if you've got an 11-speed hub, and a 7800 cassette, you'd use both the 1.85mm spacer and the 1mm spacer

for a shimano 11-speed compatible hub, the wheel will be supplied with a spacer, 1.85mm i think, to allow use with 8/9/10-speed cassettes

except for tiagra, a shimano 10-speed cassette is narrower than a 9-speed cassette and is supplied with a 1mm spacera sram 10-speed cassette, or a tiagra 10-speed, are the same width as a 9-speed cassette and need no 1mm spacer

afaik if you've got an 11-speed hub, and a 7800 cassette, you'd use both the 1.85mm spacer and the 1mm spacer

Thanks for that! It makes sense because I took it out for a 20 mile ride today and the gearing was completely messed up.

The thing I don't understand is when I put both - the ZIPP supplied spacer and the smaller (washer like) spacer that was already on it, the last cog (smallest gear) sticks off the hub rail about 1/4th. Without the smaller (washer like) spacer that was already on the cassette, the last cog fits perfectly.

The last cog should protrude past the freehub. Otherwise, the lockring would not be able to exert a compressive force.If your rear sheep's left endcap is black (as opposed to red), and you're not a junior with junior gearing (which I doubt you are), you absolutely use both spacers.

The last cog should protrude past the freehub. Otherwise, the lockring would not be able to exert a compressive force.If your rear sheep's left endcap is black (as opposed to red), and you're not a junior with junior gearing (which I doubt you are), you absolutely use both spacers.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4 Beta

I have no clue what your talking about. the only red thing is the hub. and I'm not a junior. Soooo... i must need it. Anyhow, I put both spacers on and took it out in the driveway - seems to shift good now (it shifts hard sometimes - probably needs adjusting and a new chain but it stays in gear without trying to jump out or make any sound).

Can't wait to take it out tomorrow to give it a go.

(funny how such a small spacer can make such a big difference).

Last edited by USPS on Sun Jun 09, 2013 11:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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