It's all about the French accents. No, I don't mean the thick, rolling Gallic sound of Bistro Meme's dashing male waiters, which lead many women dining here to wish they could order one as a side dish.

A rather wary and unintentional pun emerges from Bistro Meme's name when written without its French accents. Is this a clever reference to memes, those internet moments that spread like wildfire through a culture, taking on their own life? Actually, this outdoorsy French bistro's correct name is Me'me' (with an aigu, acute accent, over each e), meaning grandmother. It is owner David Poirier, who's also responsible for the stalwart French bistro La Grande Bouffe in Rozelle, paying homage to his me'me'.

But change the accent to a circumflex and meˆme has another meaning, "same" – which perhaps best summarises Bistro Meme's approach.

It's French fare so familiar it borders on cliche', yet it's saved by the panache of one of the world's great cuisines. We're talking confit, rillettes, terrine, steak tartare, moules mariniere and bouillabaisse territory.

The day begins early with croissants, $4, omelets, $14.50, and bacon and egg baguettes, $9, for breakfast.

Best of all is croque madam, $13, a croque-monsieur with a fried egg and salad.

It feels treasonous to order anything but a twice-baked gruyere and capsicum souffle', $17. However, the results disappoint, with the taste lacking the desired nutty cheesiness, while the dense texture is more closely related to quiche than souffle'.

Three king prawns, splashed with garlic and parsley, grilled and served with watercress and lemon wedge, are sweet and delicious, but they're more Vanessa Paradis slim than Brigitte Bardot opulent, and at $18 I'd like a little more meat on my exoskeletons.

While a good French accent goes a long way on the charm front, the service seems scatty. Perhaps our baguette request was lost in translation and that's why it never appeared. Then there are little things such as asking for a wine list, wines arriving well after food, and coffees served well before dessert. Alongside a good mix of Aussie wines under $40, there are plenty of French forays, such as the Pierre de la Grange muscadet from the Loire, $11 glass/$50 bottle.

If you're used to twice-cooked pressed pork belly, then Bistro Meme's version, $24, will surprise. The flesh, in thin, vertical slices, is simply grilled, and thus firmer and meatier, then draped over braised purple cabbage, leaving it both looking and tasting wan.

Thankfully, braised lamb neck on ratatouille, $23, is a superb example of regional cooking. The meat is braised until it falls from the bone. C'est bon. With onion-laced pommes lyonnais, $8.50, for company, you're set.

Bistro Meme has enough evocative charm to transport you away from the shopping centre-like surrounds.

Desserts don't summon the same powers, especially when the dominant flavour in a pleasingly runny chocolate fondant, $14.50, with poached pear isn't chocolate but less likeable tang of baking soda.

It's better to indulge in a range of French cheeses ($4-$8 per 40g) instead. As they say in France: comme ci, comme c¸a.