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Once located in the Rialto building, Mr Huang Jin has since moved a few blocks away, to Katherine Place. It's flooded with busy city workers during weekday lunch hours. They come for the baskets full of steamed dumplings, which fly out of the kitchen at mesmerising speed.

While the menu includes an array of traditional Taiwanese foods (noodle soups, stir-fries and rice dishes) it's the famous handmade xiao long bao (soup dumplings) that prove the signature piece.

From English tea to wasabi, laksa and pork chilli dumplings, the xiao long bao are impressive to say the least. Essentially a two-tiered dumpling, there's high degree of technique involved in perfecting each delicate mouthful.

Each is made cold and filled with a solid, soupy stock. Once the dumplings are heated, the stock turns to liquid, ready to spill out with your first bite. With such a composition, they are prone to sticking to the bottom of their bamboo abode, so remove them and dunk in chilli, vinegar and soy sauce as soon as the basket arrives at the table.

Made to order between two kitchens (one on each floor), the dumplings at this modest eatery rival the quality of HuTong and come at a similar price point.

Not a place to linger too long and only open during the week (and Saturday nights for reserved banquets only), Mr Huang Jin is a substantial city lunch option or perfect for a quick bite to eat before a show.

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