When it come to matters of the palate, I know a bisque from a bouillabaisse, I can sniff out a butter imposter, and I can blind taste chocolate’s percentage cocoa solids (I swear). But on the subject of chips, I am a card-carrying connoisseur.

Thin and crispy, or steaming hot wedges; the humble chip is my true culinary love. And so, after the promise of ‘duck fat fries with tobacco onions, aioli and chives’, I find myself in Partick Duck Club, Harris gin and Fevertree elderflower tonic, £6.95, in hand, searching the menu for accompaniments to this side.

We reason that ‘light’ starters will be sensible; salt baked beetroot with goats’ cheese cream cheese and toasted hazlenuts, £5.75, and langoustine & Orkney crab bisque, £7.95. The former’s sweet earthiness tempered with salt and the tang of goats’ cheese; while the bisque is sublime, the unmistakable heady flavour of a skilled hand in the kitchen.

Across the table it’s reasoned that the mark of a good restaurant is found in the simplest dishes as beer battered haddock, chips, tartare, peas, £7.75, meets with approval.

The problem with choosing my side first is that it results in a clash: duck leg, crispy duck egg and spiced pineapple chutney comes with duck fat chips as standard, £14.75, but they agree to add the highly anticipated tobacco onions, aioli and chives, £4.95.

The duck is tender with crackling skin; egg Scotch in style with soft, golden yolk; spiced pineapple chutney is gently acidic and fragrant with dried coriander.