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cutting egde bolts

I have had problems with the bolts on the replacement cutting edge loosening after 5 hrs of plowing. What is the problem? are there any tricks to tightening? Does any anyone use loc-tite? is it inevitable that the botls will have to be cut off when it is time to replace? Thanks.

some sort of lock nut. not sure what comes stock, i think it is the nylon lock nut but could be wrong. i did have alot of crud on the threads when i had to replace my cutting edge and the nuts backed off after plowing so now i make sure the threads are clean.

You should be using elastic stop nuts and the carriage bolt. It's the kind with the plastic on the top few threads of the bolt. Make shure your bolts are atleast grade five or they won't take the beating and abuse of plowing. They will work every time no problem.

I have had problems with the bolts on the replacement cutting edge loosening after 5 hrs of plowing. What is the problem? are there any tricks to tightening? Does any anyone use loc-tite? is it inevitable that the botls will have to be cut off when it is time to replace? Thanks.

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If the lock washers don't do the trick, take your stick welder and tack the nuts to the bolts.

You have to cut them off when it's time to replace the cutting edge anyways, so it's not going to cause you anymore problems than you'd already have.

Use flat washers along with Top Lock nuts. The end of the nut is tapered. Run them up with a good impact wrench. They are the best anit-vibration nut on the market. I use them on the whole fleet and they never come loose.

A simple split lock washer will solve the problem with proper torque on the nut. If you bought new bolts when replacing the edge they should have been either a nylock lock nut OR included a slpit lock washer- if your useing old hardware the nylock could have bee damaged in removal.

there is no need to tack weld a nut- that's why they make lock washers and jam nuts are unreliable and probabily won't fit on the threads remaining. Go to your local hardware store and buy split lock washers, (something like $.30 each) and put one on each bolt between the nut and the flat washer. Tighten and problem solved PLUS you can remove it without cutting.
NEVER weld a nut to a bolt simply because you can't get it to stay together.

On the subject of Locktite- there are several different formulas not all of them are perminant- blue (242 I think) is called "servicable" and is removable with out much diffaculty. Acetone tends to disolve all formulas of Locktite (as well as crazy glue)- just don;t buy the nail polish remover- it's weak/poor grade acetone buy it from a paint supply.

If you read what I said- I said Never weld a BOLT and a NUT. If it was better to bolt together an a frame they would- it is either cheaper/more cost effective for the manufacturer to weld it or they decided they wanted it stronger as opposed to having it be able to be un bolted- since there is no practicle need to unbolt an a-frame into componants.
Drilling holes for bolts weakens the material as can improper welding, but a piece that needs to be taken apart it not welded- commen sense.

While I am smarter than the average bear, I am no Einstein- common sense will get you far in life.

Remember, in life as in everything there are 2 ways to do everything- the correct way and the expensive way- if you don't do it the right way either you have to do it over, waste time fixing it, or pay someone who actually knows what their doing to fix it for you.
I love making repairs for homeowners because I get to charge them to repair the damage they caused themselves by being stubbern.

Common sense should tell you that a weld WILL hold a nut and bolt together.

You have to cut the things off anyways, and it takes less time and effort to tact them on than it does to take the nuts off, put lock washers on, then torgue them back down.

Providing you're a smart enough bear to operate a welder, and tack a bead.

Why won't they stay together?

Tack a nut and bolt together some time, and see if you can take the nut off with a rachet and socket.

If you can't use a welder, you're going to have fun with a plazma cutter or cutting torch when it comes time to replace the cutting edge.

Perhaps you bolt experts know a quicker more cost effective way? Like taking it down to the local muffler shop where the guy will charge you $10 a bolt to cut them off.

The way I see it, if you've got a welder and a decent set of torches, you can do your own repairs for a lot less than you can have it done somewhere else.

Tools pay for themselves pretty quick, between the money you'll save on repairs, and downtime while you're waiting for the shop to fit your job into their schedule.

Yeah sure, lock washers should hold it, but why waste all that time running out to get washers when you can tack the dam nuts on and be back in business in less than half the time?

If I had a guy working for me and he put a plow on hold while he ran out to get washers for something he could weld, I'd be tempted to fire him.

Common sense should tell that it's a lot quicker, easier, and more cost effective to just tack the bolts on.

Just turn the welder on, put a rod in the stinger, drop your shield down and tack......tack......tack.........tack......tack.......tack.....tack.... tack.....flip your hood up, turn the welder off, and you're done.

No running to the hardware store, no taking the nuts back off to put the washers on, and no torguing them back down.

What, are you afraid you'll burn that nice new paint off or something?!?

It snow plow for crying out loud, not Rolls Royce, you don't have to baby the dam thing, just keep it operational.