The word in the oeno-geek world is that orange wines are over, which is ironic, because I doubt that most of the drinking public even knows what an orange wine is.

In case you missed the memo -- which means that you have a life -- an orange wine is made from white grapes as though it were destined to become a red. That is, it sits on the skins, soaking up their color and tannin. But since the skins are yellow, or green or light pink (as "white" grapes tend to be), the wine comes out looking sort of, well, orange, and tasting both rich and quirky.

Most of the focus on this style has been centered on northeastern Italy, but this light-gold example, from a biodynamic producer in Sicily, recently caught my attention for its gentle approachability. The trebbiano grape (aka ugni blanc) isn't normally anything to write home about, but made a la orange, it's quite appealing, with the nutty notes of a white that's been exposed to oxygen, and soothing chamomile and spice from the skins. And although the alcohol is a bit high at 14 percent by volume, it's balanced, warming and satisfying, the ideal white to take you from winter into spring. Sadly, the producer, Manfredi Guccione, died in December 2012, so this is the last vintage of this unusual and alluring wine.

Run out and get it at Blackbird Wineshop, Division Wines, Foster & Dobbs, The Friendly Vine, John's Market, Liner & Elsen, or Strohecker's, or through HM Wine Distributing.