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Green Dacha is the first restaurant I’ve seen that features American, Mediterranean, Mexican and Russian food. You can sit and smoke hookah or watch live entertainment or television. There’s a lot going on here, but is that necessarily a good thing?

I prefer sitting outside on the quiet porch, forgetting that a busy stretch of Tropicana Avenue runs past the other end of the building. And instead of ordering a cheeseburger, a burrito or kebabs, I stick to the Russian part of the menu, since it’s the most authentic and the least available elsewhere in Las Vegas.

Vinigret ($4.95) is a Russian-style beet salad with a healthy dose of scallions to punch it up. The house bread that comes with it, borodinsky, is dense rye with molasses and coriander, delivering an almost fruity taste. Slather it with butter and enjoy.

Varenki ($6.95) are potato dumplings similar to pierogi. Served with dill and sour cream, they’re tasty ... but not the best spuds on the menu. That distinction goes to the home-style potatoes ($6.95), fried and coated in dill and garlic butter. They’re the perfect accompaniment to beef stroganoff ($13.95), strips of beef, onions and mushrooms bathed in a wash of a sour cream-based sauce, a Russian comfort food classic. You can get a cheeseburger anywhere.