who would've thought that i actually would get something finished eventually maybe?
emerging from my pile of almost-ready-but-missing-one-component soon-to-be-not-just-electronic-junk-anymore-stuff i give you STOMPIT!

this is a dual ken stone stomp box adapter that a friend asked me to make for his doepfer system. lots of recycled components (check those HUGE resistors!) and my own pcb layout. frontpanel turned out not as good as i hoped - the darker spots are supposed to look like dripping spraypaint but do a poor job at it.
apart from that the thing works great. because i am such a good friend i even wrote him a manual

Built on stripboard with a RGB colour change LED mounted in the central pot.
Now to wake up the neighbourhood at 4.50AM!
Apologies for the dodgy photos taken using a phone... I'll edit and post better ones when I get my hands on a camera.

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Last edited by -minus- on Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:18 pm; edited 1 time in total

I really like the "LED knob" is that something you can get like that off the shelf, or did you modify the knob to accommodate the LED?

Cool build!
- Strategy

-minus- wrote:

Completed moments ago, my first device for 2010: an Art Harrison 'Cocophonator'.
http://home.att.net/~theremin1/Circuit_Library/cacophonator.html
Built on stripboard with a RGB colour change LED mounted in the central pot.
Now to wake up the neighbourhood at 4.50AM!
Apologies for the dodgy photos taken using a phone... I'll edit and post better ones when I get my hands on a camera.

I really like the "LED knob" is that something you can get like that off the shelf, or did you modify the knob to accommodate the LED?

No, I modified an existing knob. Cut a bit off the top off a spline shaft metric pot to accommodate the LED. Fed the plastic insulation off some wire onto the legs of the LED to insulate them, then slotted the LED legs into the slot cut into the pot shaft. Had to pry the slot open a bit to get the legs in! I drilled a hole in the top of the knob for the LED to poke through. Had to file the collar of the LED a bit to make it fit.

Under the pot knob, I drilled a hole into the box to feed the wires in. Would have been a lot easier had I mounted the LED off centre... like a pointer or something. Still, it wasn't impossible. The LED automatically changes from red to green to blue to purple to pink etc...

Do breadboards count? These are two projects for some electro-music radio shows that I've designed and constructed. On the left is the Quad Osc Lunetta, four square wave oscillators fed into an R2R ladder and buffered out to an 1/8" jack. On the right is a pair of Boolean Sequencer Lunetta circuits of different designs. Be sure to catch the Inventor's Inventions Shows if you have an interest in Lunetta circuits.

Here is a photo of the circuit board that I built last night. I've been designing this Karplus Strong board for months with the help of my electro-music friends. It is an analog implementation of the famous Karplus Strong string synthesis digital algorithm published in 1983. As far as I know it is the first beast of it's kind, unless you know otherwise... and it sounds really cool!

Nice work Les. I'm stuffing the pcb right now, just saw the notes on dubugging, great info there - can't wait to get this baby fired up just need some BBD chips, 1st thing to do is hook up the Oberheim Strummer via MidiCV. Meanwhile I'll print the expo convertor docs and try to get my head around that.

I have some blank dot.com panels that I'd like to use, but I don't know of anyway to get print onto them besides using labels or stickers. Would prefer to be able layout and print graphics.

I first painted the panels with a satin black paint.

The DecalPro process is a toner transfer method. I printed the panel graphic on a lazer printer in black lettering on supplied toner transfer paper.

After that, one chooses a foil with the color one wants -- in my case, the satin silver color best matches the aluminum color on the Aries. (Although it appears to be white lettering in the photos, it is really an aluminum-looking color. Of course, there are white foils, too. One can choose between metallic-looking colors and just regular ink-link colors.

Anyway, one sandwiches the printed image (on the transfer paper) with the foil -- the foil adheres wherever there is toner.

The next step is the trickiest -- one must run this through the laminator with the clear (mylar) foil that eventually becomes the decal. Once the mylar is "fused" to the carrier paper, then one puts the whole think in a tray of water -- just like a decal. The image, in turn, is transferred to the clear mylar -- ready to be pressed on to the panel.

It is best to buy the kit they supply and work with the examples. There is a bit of a learning curve with it and it is easy to make mistakes. My decal application is not perfect... hopefully I will improve as I gain more experience with it.

The photo shows the new panel next to the existing modules so you can see how it has the same general "look" of the other modules.

(You may think, "hey -- it is close to the color of the wall." - well, my wall is light grey )

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