Correcting Geometry

With the coilovers installed, I had some a good amount of natural camber added in the rear all thanks to lowering the car. The next step was to get some LCAs to allow for some camber adjustment. While helping alleviate shock travel restriction.I chose PBM LCAs because of the added suspension shock travel compensation. With the car lowered, the overall travel of the struts are decreased. These arms have a “drop” in the arm to allow for added shock travel. Other competitors to this design would be more expensive to buy in Canadian dollars than it would have been to purchase it in USD and ship it. I chose not to purchase toe arms as I wanted to see how much I can get from the stock toe adjustment range. Unless I know I need it, I won’t buy it so I’ll see how the stock route goes.

I could have gone with some SPC control arms that have toe adjustability themselves but I wasn’t fond of the possibility (however miniscule) of the cam bolt slipping and changing my toe over time. From what I understand, the stock design can also pose this risk and if the toe settings suffice with my stock setup, I can just pick up an eccentric lock-out kit to stop the bolt from slipping. I don’t really want to worry about my alignment dynamically changing over time and when I least expect it, I’d rather just focus on driving.

The LCA is very nice quality and for what I paid for, I’m very happy. If you want to lower your car and don’t want to purchase coilovers just yet, these would be a great way to drop the car either 25mm or 40mm depending on your choice of strut mounting point.

Now all that’s left is to take it in for an alignment. When messing with the OEM-engineered geometry of this car by lowering it, it’s important to realize that changes will occur to ride feel when you lower the car. Things like bump-steer are something I’m aware of, but haven’t yet decided what to get. We’ll see how things progress…