Description

This is apparently the "warmup" for the North Mesa. Unfortunately this route looks a lot better than it is. Extremely short, with about 10 feet of really fun, juggy climbing, to a slabby, slopey, technical (for the grade) arete finish.

Also, the Offwidth approach detracts significantly. What better way to warm up than by thrutching up a sandy shoot in your pink lycra?

Location

This route begins atop the "Giant Boulder" down and left from Touch Monkey. Begin by scrambling awkwardly up the offwidth on the right (SE) corner of the boulder. Its probably most convenient if only the climber surmounts the boulder. The belayer can belay from the base of the boulder, just right of La Espina. Also its best to lower off the boulder (from the Monkey Lust anchor) rather than try to downclimb the OW.

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The anchors, as well as the first and fourth bolts have been replaced with 1/2, glued-in bolts. The second bolt wobbles slightly, but the third, even though it's older, is still solid. Thanks to whomever is investing their time and effort to keeping this place safe and in good shape.

The second bolt is suspect and needs to be replaced asap. I would not recommend a fall on this bolt as it is sticking out of the rock almost two inches, wiggles by hand, is a mega spinner, and the threads are stripped. This scared me worse than a bad ice screw. Comfort would be added with the use of a screamer.