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Strider stay with the 2 carrier and try less shims. Are you chrono'ing down in the 250's with the cut spring? If not then goto the short spring.

obsolete898 All your problems might be solved just by going with a larger carrier(the largest that doesnt leak). It will require less pressure to move the bolt and less pressure means slower bolt speed(a tighter carrier does NOT slow the bolt down more). Also make sure cut side of spring is on the bolt.

suggestion

Havoc this is just a suggestion but maybe you should post what each part of the level 10 does specifically and the order of installation. That way they will look at that and see what the shims, springs and carriers do. Then they can possible figure out the problem themselves. It seems they donít want to read threw this long post so they just ask the question. I read threw the posts and now mine works great. Thanks.
Again this is just a suggestion.

OK I have a question, Sorry if it was already asked but 12 pages is toomuch for me. I added my level 10 in lat nite, It leaked with the first carrier I put in (2 grooves)and 2 shims so I changed to the 1 grove carrier. I had to jack up the velocity to get it to work like they said i would. But I have a leak out the back sometimes. So I have to turn the velocity a little and then it will fire and i can sadjust it down. Also if I had previously lowered the velocity( It was shooting fine )Then left it too long without shooting I would pull the trigger and nothing would happen. Sometomes two pulls and it would start up again and sometime its would have to be adjusted again. Whats wrong? Shims? thanks

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ok been tryin to got my lvl X tunned for a bit now and
thought i had it done but...
all seem fine on lvl X. no leak down barrel. easy on finger, dont chop but i shoot the gun and it will work fine for a minute and then boom something happens and air just starts blowin out the back of the gun. FAST.
its not the sputter like over velocity its just a straight rush of air.
any ideas what i need to replace or do
thanks

another thing i now noticed when i put finger in to stop bolt when i release the trigger it blows out the back velocity hole pretty hard?

"The Few Who Do Are The Envy Of The Many Who Only Stand And Watch"
Alway Remember *343*

When I installed level 10 it will NEVER fire with either the long or mid length springs. It only fires with the little one. And the body doesn't vent any excess CO2, and the CO2 is full, I had it filled right before installation.
So, it seems to hit the ball a little harder than it should. So any comments would be greatly appreciated.

has anyone noticed a loss of softness in the LX bolt over time; when I set up my LX(long spring clipped to run at 290 w/o bolt-stick; two shims and 1.5 carrier) it worked perfectly; it could not chop, that was about a month ago; what I have noticed is that I have begun chopping with the LX; it is pretty hard on my finger, which it was not hard at all last month.

any ideas

thanx a lot

could it be that the compression of the spring caused it to shorten and the bolt to speed up b/c there is less spring pressing against it; has anyone else noticed this problem

Magluvr when you used the cut spring you couldnt turn up your velocity high enough to fire? are you sure you were using the biggest carrier that didnt leak? See if you could cut about a half a coil off your cut spring, that will require less pressure to cycle and will be softer than the stock bolt.

LawFox32 the springs should last years, not months. It's got to be something else. the only thing that would wear that fast would be the o'ring break-in(aside from a shifting bolt piston on beta lx bolts), once it would break in a bit(even to the point of not leaking) it'll need less force to move so the same amount of pressure would make the bolt move faster. try chrono'ing to see where your at, if not, again make sure you using the biggest carrier that doesnt leak. (this is on a classic valve right?) also make sure you bumper is in good shape and not sticking to your bolt or shredding between the bolt and powertube.

level 10 retro

im having problems now with the level 10 i had it in my AIR valve (never had a problem never choped balls)before putting it in the retro valve ,here is the problem i put it in and it shoots fine no leaks,but when i do a squeegy test it vents out but wont reset it self tried messin with the shims springs still wont reset with the squeegy testthis is whats in there now cut spring 1.5 carrier and 2 shims but i tried the long spring and it still does it.can anyone help im getting a heaach looking through the level10 thread

I'm awfully close

I'm not sure how to tell what level automag I have, but I bought it in early 1995. I am running it on a remote system and I have added the autorepsonse grip and trigger. I have the LX kit installed and it is working as expected. I am using the #2 carrier with the shortest spring. The the #2.5 carrier (I am assuming that the dot mean .5) leaked down the barrel. It will not fire at all with the middle or long spring. It shoots fine and resets if it pinches a ball. However, it will only go to about 250 fps. If I try to crank the velocity up and higher, it leaks out the back of the gun. Am I at the limit and 250 fps is what I should expect? Is there something else I need to do? Should I be using one of the longer springs?

i just got LX for my rtpro and last night i put the second carrier in with 2 shims and the middle spring. i gased it up and it started leaking down the barrel which is supposed to be normal right? i ran out of air so i dicided i would fallow the more detaied intructions today and get more air. i took the powertube tip off and the shims out this morning but i can't get the carrier out(i had a hard time getting it in yesterday too) and it looks like the little black oring on the outside of the carrier is mostly gone because i found lots of black pieces in the powertube. did i do anything wrong, and how do i get the carrier out?

another thing is that i have to take the whole marker apart to get the valve out, not just the quick strip screw because the on/off pin sticks into the body. it's not really a problem but gets annoying when i just want to take the valve, bolt, ect out. i was wondering if anyone else has this problem, and if/how i can fix it(or do i just have to live with it)?

Spray painter: I too thought that it was a tight squeeze getting the carrier in and out, but I used a dental pick and was able to do it without damaging the black o-ring. Also, have you tried pulling the trigger a few times after taking your tank off. I found that this pushes the pin back in and the assembly will slide out fine.

noa350 you need to get a small file and make a little room for the bolt on the inside of your body.(at least thats how it's done on regular bodies that dont have room for the bolt, I havent seen the inside of a micromag body but I'd assume you'd do the same thing)

Spray Painter when the valve wont come out, you need to pull the trigger to knock the on/off pin back in the valve, then the valve will pop right out. As for taking out the carrier, use your field strip screw, it's the easiest way.

I got my Emag back out today to start playing again but the Level 10 was acting up. When I first installed it it worked perfect but it is a beta version so it has been awhile. The gun has set for probably 6 months without any use. Today it would not fire I could hear the solenoid click but nothing would happen. If I put my finger in the breach and pushed on the front of the bolt it would burp the next trigger pull and the bolt would move about half way the next shot would be normal, the next burp, then normal. Sometimes it would burp 2 or 3 times then fire. This occured during slow seady firing of about 1-2 bps. During quick firing after the first burp it would continue firing normally. If there was any pause in the shootng the bolt would have to be pushed again to get it to start back shooting. This occured with both of the longer springs; the shortest had no problems. The setup was the 1.5 carrier not sure on shims. I put the 2 carrier in but it leaked down the barrel. The push on the bolt did not have to be strong just a light depression. Any ideas?

There's all kind of songs about babies and love gone right, but for some unknown reason nobody wants to play them tonight.

Yes... I am unsure of the original velocity and I did not remember the velocity trick until I was almost out of air (damn leaky tank). I turned it quite abit to increase the velocity but to no avail. Perhaps due to lack of pressure... not sure however with full pressure it was not working I just didn't try adjusting the velocity when I had pressure

I'm having a weird problem with my level 10 when I gas it up it works fine until it pinches a ball. Then it will leak every time I bump the trigger and stop next time I fire the marker (or some times it will just stop). My setup is the size 1 spacer, and no shims (I started with more but it doesnít leak as badly with no shims). I donít think itís an on/off problem.