My problem is that when I plug in charger (PowerSystem4 for my 98 DS ClubCar the charger comes on after a few seconds, then cycles off after a few seconds and then comes back on at full charge (which I read is normal), BUT then at some point during the charge cycle (sometimes a few minutes and some times after 1-2 hours) the red warning dash light comes on.

Sometimes the charger will turn itself off and the red light stays on until I unplug the charger. Sometimes the charger stays on and I can hear the batteries "bubbling" and I will unplug the charger. When I check the batteries after a round of golf sometimes there are dry cells and I put in distilled water, let the batteries sit for 1/2 hour and then plug in charger.

The batteries are 2 years old and were installed by a golfcart service techie here in Florida, so they should all be ok. The red warning light does NOT come on while I am operating the cart so I don't think it's a low battery charge condition.

In reading a lot of threads I see there is an OBC that might be the problem, but it is cycling upon plugging in charger (according to threads I have read).

Do I have a bad battery, bad OBC or what????

Thanks for any help you guys can provide. Happy New Years. Bruce

Today

BGW

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You may have problems but first I would read DrBob's site about OBC's to better understand charging functions.
The first part of your message sounds correct on function of OBC until you have light staying on after charger turns irself off? This is indication of battery problems normally but can also be OBC problem, but dont spend money on any cart parts just yet?
Batterys bubbling during charge cycle is normal and by unhooking charger BEFORE its done you are putting OBC out of step and it must reset itself after completing a full automatic charge cycle as YOU MUST ALLOW CHARGER TO TURN OFF BY ITSELF UNLESS YOU NEED TO DRIVE BEFORE DONE.
The need for water "After a round of golf" may mean you have some bad batterys? Age and who installs batterys doesnt mean anything as even NEW Batterys are sometimes defective, and I would either get a CART TEC to check cart OR better yet get yourself a digital volt meter ( Harbor Freight $3-$5 ) or even better yet a single float hydrometer ( Auto parts store $3-$6. ) with temperature correction scale ( NOT A MULTI FLOAT ANTIFREEZE TESTER ) and check each cell and compare with readings found on STICKIES as "State Of Charge Readings" and also post cell test readings here so forum can help you see if you have bad batterys?
The whole thing is to start with batterys and then after eliminating them you can continue if needed further with possible parts replacement?