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OMeJI - Team 15 SubBob Squarepants Submersible

Introduction: OMeJI - Team 15 SubBob Squarepants Submersible

This is a 1/2 inch Schedule 40 based PVC submersible/remote-operated vehicle. It was designed to pick up two flags at the bottom of a nine-foot pool with its double hooks. The flags were part of a competition organized by the Academy High School consisting of flag capture and retrieval. Removing the two hooks to let water in, achieving a neutral buoyancy allows the depth of the submersible to be user controlled by the up/down switch. The submersible moves around with tank controls to go forward, backward, and rotate itself.

Step 2: Making Bar 1

Take one 1.5 ft long PVC pipe and place a 3-way fitting on each end like for the first rectangle.

Step 3: Adding Onto Bar 1

Insert a 2 inch pipe into both 3-way fittings perpendicular to the 1.5 ft pipe.

Step 4: Adding on T Fittings

Place a T-fitting onto each end of the 2 inch pipes, with the bottom of the “T’s” facing each other.

Step 5: Fliparoo

Flip the structure over so that the open ends of the 3-way fittings are facing down towards the table.

Step 6: More T Fittings

Place T-fittings with the bottom of the T facing upward on each end of the 2 inch pipes.

Step 7: Finishing Rect 1

Place a 2 inch pipe into both of the open ends of the first T-fittings and a 10in pipe between the second T fittings

Step 8: Putting in More 3-ways

Place a 3-way fitting onto the end of each 2 inch pipe, making sure they are facing the same way as the first two 3-way fittings.

Step 9: Completing Rect 2

Insert one 1.5 ft pipe in between the 3-way fittings to complete the second rectangle.

Step 10: Starting Hooks MAKE TWO OF THESE!

Place an elbow fitting onto one end of a 6 inch pipe.

Step 11: Building the Structure

Take one 5 in long PVC pipe and place two 3-way fitting on each ends, with the fittings oriented up.

Step 12: Adding the Arm

Insert a 4 inch pipe into the other end of the elbow fitting.

Step 13: Another Elbow

Place another elbow fitting onto the end of the 4 inch pipe, facing back up the other way.

Step 14: Finished Hook One

Insert a 2 inch pipe with an end cap closing one side, into the end of the second elbow to complete a “J” shape.

Step 15: Putting on Hooks

Insert both of the hooks into the open ends of the T - fitting, 6 inch side first, ensuring they are facing the same way. This is Rectangle A.

Step 16: Rectangle B

Take two 5 in long PVC pipe and place a 3-way fitting on each ends, with the fittings oriented up.

Step 17: Adding PVC Bars and Noodles

Take two 1.5 ft long PVC pipes and insert them inside the 3-way fittings, with the 1.5 ft long pipes perpendicular to the 5 in pipe. Slide one 3-inch noodle piece and two 1.5 inch noodle pieces for each of the 1.5 ft pipes.

Step 18: Completing Rect B

Insert a 5 in long pipe into the ends of the last two 3-way fittings to complete a rectangle. At this point the spare holes of the 3-way fitting should all be facing up. This is Rectangle B.

Step 19: Finished Frame

Take Rectangle A and place the open 3 - way fittings onto the ends of the 5 inch pipes of Rectangle B to create a rectangular prism shape.

Step 20: Begin Constructing Motors

For the motors you will need

1) Three 232047 (Model #) "James Co." Motors

2) Waterproof sticker to conceal the motors

3) "Ring Bowl" wax

4) Sand Paper

5) Epoxy Glue

Step 21: Water Proofing the Motors

1) First take one 232047 “Jam Co.” motor

2) Next, paste the waterproof sticker on both sides to make it water resistant

3) Repeat for the number of motors you have

Step 22: Adding Wax and Motor Capsule

1) Smear the wax on both sides of the motors, making sure all of the small holes are covered

2) Take a motor capsule and place the motor inside

3) Next, close the capsule with a capsule cap

4) Repeat with the number of motors you have

Step 23: Sanding Off the Axis

1) Next take sandpaper and sand off the axle while the motors are running

2) Next, wipe the axis off

3) Repeat with the number of motors you have

Step 24: Adding the Propellors

1) Place a drop of epoxy glue on the tip of the axis

2) Next place the propeller onto the tip of the axis

3) Let it sit for the next 2 min.

4) Repeat with the number of motors you have

Step 25: Attaching BACK Motors

1) Place the motors on each back corner of the sub

2) Next take 2 zip ties, and zip tie each motor to the pipe making a "X" shape on the motor

3) Tape the zip ties in place with electrical tape

Step 26: Attaching BOTTOM Motor

1) Place a motor near the middle of the bottom PVC of the sub

2) Next zip tie it to the PVC making an "X" formation on the motor

3) If necessary, use tape to keep motor in place

Step 27: Sorting Out the Wires

Above is a diagram for how the motors should appear, as you can see the 5 motors that we used for our sub are all connected to the main wire(Cat 5 wire). What the main wire does is basically just extend the wires from the motors. There are only three colors that you should pay attention to from the main wire which is orange, green, and blue(as labeled above), first just cut the unneeded wires or bend them to get them out of the way.

Step 28: Connecting the Motors

So the red wire on the motor is the positive wire and the black one is the negative wire. First grab the two motors that you want to connect and connect both of the red and both of the black wires together by twisting them together. Now that the red is connected to the red wire and the black to the black wire you want to make sure to tie the red wire to the solid colored wire and the black one to the striped wire and then put electrical tape around them like shown in the picture. Make sure to do this for all three of the colored wires(orange,green,blue).

Step 29: Extending the Wires

We extended our wire by using another Cat 5 wire and adding it onto the main wire. All you have to do is connect the colors that match. So basically tie the solid orange colored wire with the other solid orange wire and cover it in electrical tape.

Step 30: Covering the Wires

Now it’s time to cover those wires in electrical tape. Make sure to cover all of the wires nice and tight as shown in the picture.

Step 31: Switchbox

First, get your casing that you pick out to be your controller. I recommend a plastic eyeglass casing, but you can customise your controller to your liking. I would advise the controller to be at least 4in height with a 4 in length.

Step 32: Switch Wiring

Then, add a section of CAT 5 wire to the ends of the pins of the switches like the picture shows. You need to choose which short side you want to be going forward. After you choose, I’m starting from top left you need to solder the blue/white striped wire. To the right solder on the solid blue wire. In the middle left wire you solder in the orange/white striped wire. Middle right solder in the solid orange. Bottom left you solder in the striped green/white wire. Finally on the Bottom right pin you solder in the solid green. Do this for each of the switches choosing which short side to be going forward.

Step 33: Hole Drilling

Next, using a ¼ in drill bit some holes at 1 2/5in on the left and right on the top and using a ½ in drill bit make hole at the bottom of the casing 2 ¼ from the left or right side which ever hand is dominant or works best for you. Holes 1-3 are for the switches.Next using the ¼ drill bit, put holes in the back of the casing. Put them into where you want the back of your controller to be for us we used the side away from the opening. Holes 4 and 5 are for the power and main cable

Step 34: Back Wiring

Place the power cable and the main cable into the casing in the back where hole 4 is the power cable and hole 5 is main cable

Step 35: Placing Switches Into Casing

Now, take a small switch and take off the nut and washer from the switch itself, place the small switch into hole 1. Now this is very important place the switch so that the pins with the blue cables facing toward the power and main cables. This will orientate it so that when you push up it will move the sub forward. When that is done place the washer onto the switch sticking through the casing. After that place the nut back onto switch and place it on tightly.

Now, take your second small switch and place it into Hole 2. Make sure to have the blue cables are facing the power and main cables. Place the washer and nut back on and tighten it.

Next, Put the large switch into hole three on the bottom make sure that the Green wires are facing the power and main cables when that is finished place the washer and nut back on and tighten the nut.

Step 36: Wiring Up All the Switches

When all of your switches are in the correct place facing the right way (blue wires towards the power and main cable) you’re going to want to wire them up to the motors so that power can get to them togglable. Take the motors on the left sides positive cables and take the wires from the switch you want to be your left motor controller and solder the positive wire to the solid green cable and the blue/white striped cable. When that’s done tape it and set it down. Next take the negative end of the left motors and solder the negative end with the solid blue and the striped green/white wire. Finally on the left motor take the orange/white striped wire twist it around the ground of the power source cable, but don’t solder them, we still need to connect the other two cables also take the solid orange wire and twist it around the positive end of the power source. There left motor completed, now you just need to do the same for the center motor and right motors and you my friend have a completed controller for the sub.