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EDW2030F00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for EDW2030F00WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Dishwasher wouldn't fully drain

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

First and formost before you buy read everything in trouble shooting your dishwasher. Then you do not buy parts you do not need. First you turn off power, then water. Remove two screws, a rubber hose and a hard line by unscrewing if you are lucky some contractors might sweat this on. No biggie just two extra steps that's all. do in reverse to assemble...

D/W would not drain. Water standing in bottom.

It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.

After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.

I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.

PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.

Found a forum on the internet that said the Air Check Valve located under the screen on the bottom of the back wall inside the wash compartment may be the culprit. Took it out by using nut driver to remove screen, and twisting the part out. The seal was deteriorated. Repleacing the part was simply the opposite, and very easy.

I also replaced the screen on the floor of the wash compartment because the rubber was deteriorating there too. Here I had to remove the spray arm by carefully prying the locking tabs outwards and lifting the entire spray assembly upwards. Then, then plastic covers need to be unscrewed and removed. The new part had the plastic cage molded into it. So I discarded the old plastic cage. There are a couple of retaining clips that are a little tricky to get off the plastic posts. But, they can be removed by prying a standard screw driver underneath and working them off the post. Do not break the plastic post, and save the retaining rings. The new part does not come with any screws or retainers, so you will need to re-use them. Simply, place the new screen in position, slide on the retaining clips, and screw down the cage. The spray assembly is just slid back onto the shaft and snaps into place. A lot of writing, but was rather simple to do. 15-20 minutes.

Motor was getting noisier every time we used the dishwasher. We knew it was just a matter of time before it totally quit.

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

First I removed the dishwasher from underneath the countertop and laid it on its back. I used a nut driver to remove the pump support wire and the two clamps holding the rubber connectors to the pump. It helped to hook the pump support wire in a hole in the left side of the frame and reconnect it to the pump to hold it up out of the way. I was able to remove the rubber connector by hand and unscrew it. To install the new rubber connector tightly, I slipped a piece of 2" PVC pipe (outside diameter is 2-3/8") inside the connector and tightened the clamp around the connector and PVC pipe. This allowed me to use the pipe to tighten the rubber connector. I reassembled the dishwasher pump and connections and put the dishwasher back into service

took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit----------------installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads-tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.

water coming our of dishwasher from upper part of spray arm water supply hose, hole in upper part of hose due to corosion

unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!

Some things to note:- Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses.- Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.

1. Shut off electricity2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher.3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly.4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters.5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed.6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger.7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor.8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump.9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor.10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher.11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher.12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly.13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump.14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump.15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps.16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump.17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp.18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections.19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet.20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed.21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks.22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters.23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!

Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.It was not hard but took longer than predicted.Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

Lost Despenser Lid, Droped It And Havent Seen It Since.

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...