This Circular Saw Crosscut Jig will open up a world of possibilities right in your own shop. You will be able to cut at various angles with ease, safely make dados, create half-lap joints, and work with an expanded cut capacity. Although this jig will not fully replace a miter or table saw, it serves many functions that those saws provide. Additionally, with a few easy adjustments, this build can also act as a router jig. This jig is sure to make your circular saw one of the favorite tools in your shop.

Supplies:

Step 1: Routing the T-Track

First, make sure you are working with a straight piece of plywood. Then, mark the desired location of the T-Track. I attached a piece of scrap wood to the router guide to help stabilize and control the router. I worked my way up to 3/8th of an inch, by routing 1/8th inch at a time. I cleaned up the end of the track using a chisel and then sanded the whole base. Next, screw the T-Track in place using screws that will not exit through the back.

Step 2: Splitting the C-Channel

To create the saw track, I ripped a 2-inch C-Channel using a reciprocating saw with a metal blade. Although you would like to achieve a nice uniform cut, it does not have to be perfect; the goal is to have two tracks that the saw can ride on. Next, be sure to smooth the sharp edges of the C-Channel by filing and sanding.

Step 3: Recessing the Saw Guide

The tracks will be recessed in the risers. First, I lined the risers together and secured them so that they can be cut simultaneously. Then, I used a hand saw to make the outer cuts, and used a router to remove the section where the tracks would sit. A chisel can be used for this step.

Next, I lined up the riser on the base of the jig to mark where the T-Track screw will sit. I used a chisel to create a channel for the T-Track screw.

Step 4: Attaching the Risers

Again, you want to ensure the T-Track screw is in the T-Track before attaching the risers. Apply wood glue to the bottom of the riser and check for squaring before using clamps to secure. Then, use screws to attach the riser to the base. Repeat the same process on the opposite side with the other riser, assuring that it is square. Allow glue to dry.

Step 5: Adding Threaded Inserts

Place the tracks in the opening on the risers, and place the saw on top of the tracks to ensure the proper spacing. Drill a pilot hole through each end of the tracks and into the risers. You will want to countersink the screw holes so that the heads of the screws do not interfere with the saw. Install the threaded inserts into the holes in the risers. Screw the tracks into place.

Modify this jig for a router by moving one of the tracks to fit your router base. Drill a new hole into the risers, and add threaded inserts.

Step 6: Painting and Assembling

I used black paint to finish the metal tracks and the risers. Be careful not to get any paint inside of the tracks. After the finish of your choice dries, you can attach the tracks with screws.

Step 7: Blade Guard Holder

I used a bracket and formed it to act as a stop. I was able to use one of the existing holes and attach the bracket to the saw using a bolt.

Step 8: Miter Attachment

I cut two pieces of wood, one at 45 degrees and the other at 22.5 degrees and attached them to 2 separate pieces of wood as shown. I will utilize the bolt that is used for the hold down clamp as a pivot point. I clamped the two long pieces of lumber and used a drill press to drills in the same section. Keep in mind that these pieces could be any length that's comfortable for you, just make sure that they extend past the cut area of the saw blade. To ensure accuracy, use a speed square as a reference and use the knob to secure the lumber. Glue the angled piece of wood (as shown) making sure to leave no gaps between the speed square and lumber. Next, cut the excess wood from the bottom of the attachment.

To install these attachments, you will line them onto the T-Track screw, swing them on the track and tighten it down. I recommend that you double check the attachment with a speed square before every use. After ensuring the alignment you can cut down the attachments. When you use this attachment, you can use a clamp or a hold down clamp to hold your subject down.

Step 9: Test Cuts

As previously stated, this Circular Saw Crosscut Jig will prove to be a valuable addition to your shop. Hope you enjoy the versatility of this simple jig.

I could make this jig without any exact measurements.Being given exact measurements is a level of hand-holding that it's fair to ask you to pay for. If you're not expert enough to figure out your own measurements, then you SHOULD have to pay for our man's expertise.

The C-Channel has a short lip, The lip of the c-channel was perfect. It didn't interfere with the base of the saw or motor. This allowed me to lower the saw all the way a get maximum cut. Angle Iron usually have two even sides. In my case, my saw and motor on the saw would hit the lip that's facing up. So instead of cutting two angle iron, I used a C-channel and one cut.

Yes, there is a reason I used the C-Channel. The C-Channel has a short lip, The lip of the c-channel was perfect. It didn't interfere with the base of the saw or motor. This allowed me to lower the saw all the way a get maximum cut. Angle Iron usually have two even sides. In my case, my saw and motor on the saw would hit the lip that's facing up. So instead of cutting two angle iron, I used a C-channel and one cut. Hope, I am making sense.