Best mods for 98 Camaro?

This is a discussion on Best mods for 98 Camaro? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a 98 Camaro Z28 with a stock LS1 with 155,000 miles. I am looking for the best mods ...

Best mods for 98 Camaro?

I have a 98 Camaro Z28 with a stock LS1 with 155,000 miles. I am looking for the best mods for running the 1/4 without spending a lot of money. I have installed a SLP cold air intake, flow masters, MSD plug wires, and SLP mass airflow sensor, i also plan to get headers soon. My knowledge of cars is pretty small which is my main problem, i have been thinking of upgrading the internals, but i really dont know enough to figure out what to get with a fairly small budget. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The basics that you still don't have are an upgraded air lid (SLP is good) and a ported throttle body. You will also want to pick up some subframe connectors.

A good throttle body can be found on ebay for $50-100.

Headers can get expensive. Someone on this site pointed out BBK to me when I explained that I may not be able to financially justify upgrading my headers. BBK makes some chrome ones that go for $380, or you can upgrade to ceramic coating for another $120. $500 for a set of 1 3/4 long tubes and a y-pipe is the best deal I've seen since I started searching about a year ago.

Once you have all your bolt ons, a tune will let your cpu make the most of what's there, opening up a few more horsepower.

also check out ebay headers u can get a pair for $200 bucks stainless steel LT's mine fit perfectly with no problems, got a custom 3" OFY-pipe made for $90 from a local shop at home... A4 or M6? if A4 a tune from FROST is well worth the money!(you will need it anyways if u get headers) the shift improvement is amazing! also Subframe connectors are a must if you start making power! really the car could use them bone stock!

there are many things u can do but the price goes up on every upgrade!

Best thing that you can do for a 98' is fix some of the common issues so that when you start putting power you have a solid foundation.

Common problems are:

Passenger Window - Autotrix (Sponsor) sells a fix for it. GM routed the hot wire through the drivers side. By the time it gets to the passenger motor it is no longer 12 volts so the motor is under powered and ends up burning out quickly (Cost under $40)

Oil Pump - 98's have (in a word) a crappy oil pump. Over time it flow drops off and leads to failure. When you replace it get at least a LS6 oil pump, it will increase the flow and keep the pressure up (Cost $110, ported $170)

SFC's - like previously posted, these cars should have had them stock. More power you add the easier the body will flex. 2 points are good, 3 points are better. If you have a vert, I recommend only getting 3 point.

Rear Ends - This is our cars greatest weakness - Over 420RWHP it's not if but when your rear will go. A4 = 12 bolt, M6 = 9" works well with these. Gears = personal choice and what you plan on doing.

PCV Issues - I've been told I'm very passionate on this issue. I F'ing hate the OEM PCV system. It's crap is a nice statement. OEM replacement cost $85-130 to replace. With some time and patients you can replace it with a better system. Look up LS6 VCT mod, combine this with a catch can and you'll have a better solution for $60.

Knock Sensors - 98 KS are no longer made. You will need to up them to the 99-02 KS and WH. You usually do this in conjunction with a intake swap or while doing the LS6 VCT mod.

Free Mods - You can get some performance and function mods without spending much money. It is mostly time. LS1howto.com and our tech sticky section has a lot of them.

Bolt ons - Most bolt ons are about $500 and under. Some things you can get from here in the "parts for sale" section, ebay, or craigslist. I got my LS6 Intake and P&P TB for $450 together.

Most upgrades are:
Ls6 intake or Fast <they are getting harder and more $ to get)
LT Headers - Pacesetter and EBAY headers are very affordable and have had good reviews from members here.
ORY - I'm running TS&P with my Pacesetters and it was very affordable.
Muffers - Everyone has their own tastes, I'm using Magnaflow because I like the rumble, were Flow Masters has the rasp.
P&P TB - I would only recommend spending the $$ on a new TB is you had a FAST 102 intake to go with it. You can get P&P TB for under $150 and have very close to the same results as a 80-85 mm BBK TB that goes for $350.
A4 - Stall coverter
M6 - under 450 RWHP or min track use go with a LS7 clutch Kit, Heavy track use, go with SPEC or Monster clutch systems
Cam and Heads - again these are a personal choice and require tuning. Cost for both can be around $1800 to $3000 plus a dyno tune $500.
Wheels & Tires - personal choice.

What I tell new owners that want to start a project is that the end result is from a lot of many little projects. Research what you want, write it down (map it out), ask questions. Know what you can do, are willing to do, and can not do.

The route most ppl will suggest is to fix what needs fixing 1st, then suspension, rear, drive train, with body and paint last.

Best thing that you can do for a 98' is fix some of the common issues so that when you start putting power you have a solid foundation.

Common problems are:

Passenger Window - Autotrix (Sponsor) sells a fix for it. GM routed the hot wire through the drivers side. By the time it gets to the passenger motor it is no longer 12 volts so the motor is under powered and ends up burning out quickly (Cost under $40)

Oil Pump - 98's have (in a word) a crappy oil pump. Over time it flow drops off and leads to failure. When you replace it get at least a LS6 oil pump, it will increase the flow and keep the pressure up (Cost $110, ported $170)

SFC's - like previously posted, these cars should have had them stock. More power you add the easier the body will flex. 2 points are good, 3 points are better. If you have a vert, I recommend only getting 3 point.

Rear Ends - This is our cars greatest weakness - Over 420RWHP it's not if but when your rear will go. A4 = 12 bolt, M6 = 9" works well with these. Gears = personal choice and what you plan on doing.

PCV Issues - I've been told I'm very passionate on this issue. I F'ing hate the OEM PCV system. It's crap is a nice statement. OEM replacement cost $85-130 to replace. With some time and patients you can replace it with a better system. Look up LS6 VCT mod, combine this with a catch can and you'll have a better solution for $60.

Knock Sensors - 98 KS are no longer made. You will need to up them to the 99-02 KS and WH. You usually do this in conjunction with a intake swap or while doing the LS6 VCT mod.

Free Mods - You can get some performance and function mods without spending much money. It is mostly time. LS1howto.com and our tech sticky section has a lot of them.

Bolt ons - Most bolt ons are about $500 and under. Some things you can get from here in the "parts for sale" section, ebay, or craigslist. I got my LS6 Intake and P&P TB for $450 together.

Most upgrades are:
Ls6 intake or Fast <they are getting harder and more $ to get)
LT Headers - Pacesetter and EBAY headers are very affordable and have had good reviews from members here.
ORY - I'm running TS&P with my Pacesetters and it was very affordable.
Muffers - Everyone has their own tastes, I'm using Magnaflow because I like the rumble, were Flow Masters has the rasp.
P&P TB - I would only recommend spending the $$ on a new TB is you had a FAST 102 intake to go with it. You can get P&P TB for under $150 and have very close to the same results as a 80-85 mm BBK TB that goes for $350.
A4 - Stall coverter
M6 - under 450 RWHP or min track use go with a LS7 clutch Kit, Heavy track use, go with SPEC or Monster clutch systems
Cam and Heads - again these are a personal choice and require tuning. Cost for both can be around $1800 to $3000 plus a dyno tune $500.
Wheels & Tires - personal choice.

What I tell new owners that want to start a project is that the end result is from a lot of many little projects. Research what you want, write it down (map it out), ask questions. Know what you can do, are willing to do, and can not do.

The route most ppl will suggest is to fix what needs fixing 1st, then suspension, rear, drive train, with body and paint last.

Very good list, personally I'd add 2 items to it:
1) Torque arm, Factory's are weak, Mine literally started ripping off the rearend, you also want to get it off the tail of your transmission so you don't stress/ snap the tail of your tranny before you start putting additional power to the ground.
2) Motor Mounts, Mine were totally trashed at 128k (shifter would move 1" side to side under hard accel/decell., and if you're going to do headers go the extra step or 2 and replace the motor mounts.

Thank you to everyone for all the suggestions. I forgot to add that it is an auto transmission. I was thinking about upgrading to a LS6 or a FAST intake, pacesetter headers, and would like to upgrade the heads and cam, but i am kinda scared to with the high mileage and i know absolutely nothing about them. First though i need new shocks, mine are in bad shape, could anyone suggest some pretty good shocks, I plan on mostly using it for drag, but would like to do some autocross as well.