In the heart of Ubud is the small, understated Jalan Goutama. Certainly one of the most charismatic streets in town, it’s brimming with designer shops, quirky finds, comfy beds, quality spas and delicious eateries. With a European pedestrian friendly feel, it’s one of...

BALI IS under rapid reconstruction. There’s a sidewalk building frenzy in Ubud. The super toll road linking Sanur to the airport and Nusa Dua is right out of Singapore. Many shops are upgrading to an ‘all window’ contemporary look, and internet access without a...

By Norma Jean Belenky A FRIEND of mine once told me that everyone falls in love in Bali – be it with a significant other, the divine or simply themselves. The most rewarding relationship one can have is with oneself, and this is partially maintained through the...

By Janet Nicol | Cover photograph of author by Heather Bonker, in Nyuh Kuning “Smiling is the beginning of happiness,” says Agus Premananda, a longtime resident and proud member of the local community group Mekenyem (“smile” in Balinese). He and his group are clearing...

Cover photograph by Glenn Chickering Perhaps you’ve seen them. It looks like a motorbike rally from the street. As you come closer it sounds like a shouting match or a civil war in the village (banjar). This is the only event in Indonesia for which you must show up on...