There are many ways on how to paint a shell. There is the tape method which is ok. Personally, I don’t like it as the lines can bleed through and not be crisp. Then there are the masks. If you do these then get the vinyl ones. They are like taping, only they are like stickers and seal better. The third way, and the ones that I prefer, involve using parma masking or Bob Dively masking. For this walk through I will be using Bob. If you want to post a thread on the others then please do! We would all like to read it!!!

The liquid masks are a thick liquid that can be airbrushed or brushed onto the inside of a shell. The liquid paste dries and new coats can be applied. Typically you will want to apply 2 to 3 layers. The reason why I prefer Bob over Parma is that the lines come out better and the liquid mask can be applied and used within 7 days. Parma you almost have to use immediately or else it will not be as pliable or easy to work with.

So, you just had fun tearing your RC across the track or your favorite bash site. It’s now filthy and you want to clean it. What to do?

There are some people who are anal about cleaning like I am. There are also those who do want to clean as often as it takes too much time. Cleaning is a choice and it is not mandatory as it is your kit and yours to do what you feel. However, top pros will tear down their kit after every race, or bash period, as it is a good practice to get into. If for nothing else, have a clean RC means that you take care of it, inspect it, and know that when you pull it off the shelf it will work. Cleaning is not just removing dirt off of the chassis. It is inspecting for worn parts, broken or cracked parts, missing parts, and extreme wear.

The following are just the basics and general guidelines. It is up to yourself, the user, to adopt the procedures that you feel is necessary.

After Run Procedure [youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeDqV0Y_G60] After run procedure guidelines should be followed for maximum life of the rc engine and also the kit. Following these simple rules always reduces downtime and repair bills as you will keep up with your RC and prevent major damage when you repair things as they happen.

Right around this time of the year kids return to school, the days are not as long, and the temperature starts to drop. Fall is almost here! Most of us just do not want to give up our toys for five months though. We want to run them through the fall and winter. In order to do this we have to prepare them for the rainy and snowy season. This article will show you how to do just that for the following areas:

Battery
Receiver
Servo
ESC
Motor
Engine

You will need some special supplies for this. The nice part about them is that they are not at the local hobby store and you will be able to save some cash with the exception of one item. By a simple trip to a retail store and a hardware store you will want the following:

-Silicone Sealant (commonly found in the caulking aisle)
-Plastic Dip (commonly found in the paint aisle)
-Balloons (found in the novelty card aisle)
-Electrical tape (found in the electrical aisle)
-Liquid tape aka scotchguard (found in the electrical aisle)
-Zip ties (found in the electrical aisle)
-An old sock
-Associated’s Green Slime (Found at the local hobby store)

I see this question a lot and thought that I would tackle it. The question is how to remove the tire from the rim and if the tire is salvageable afterwards. If done right, usually you can re-use the tire and the rim as well. Removing is easy to do.

There are no smells associated with the removal however there is a BURN HAZARD. You will want to be very careful of the hot water or temperatures associated in doing this conversion. You could burn your skin on either method. You will want to use a thick pair of rubber gloves and to rest when the temperatures start to get too high for your hands or you.

There are two methods. The first one presented is boiling and the second is baking.

Gluing your tires, without a mess, is something that is commonly learned over time. But, how do you do it where it is a one shot deal?

This is also helpful to the new entrant to RC where kits are now starting to pop up with rims but no tires. Which, can seem odd but it also allows tires that are customized to the track and course that you are running. I just received a Team Magic buggy that was this way and it is considered one of their entry to mid level kits.

The first part of assembling the tires is to feed the foams into the tire. Place the foam inside one corner and then work it around the inside of the tire so that it is flat and even on all sides.

We have all been there and have all done it. For some, getting into the hobby is a financial burden as it can be a lot of money to sink. For other people it is not worth paying r to $700 for a brand new kit when you can get a used one for less.

The main question is…. Is it worth the cash that you are about to lay on the line and what is and is not too much?

This article is for the person who wants to save some cash but also not get hosed. The advice in this article has served me well for years.

It can be great or it can be a bombshell….BUYER BEWARE!!!

Ah! The lovely smell of commerce and the secondary market is one where the consumer always wants the best for the cheapest price. If you are negotiating do not insult the seller by saying “what is the lowest price shipped you will sell this for?” I can honestly tell you that I am the kind of guy that will work with people and their budgets as I want to see them go to a good home. Most good RC’ers are this way as well. Insult us an that deal immediately goes bad.

Next, when you get the kit do not expect it to be new. It is used. This means that someone else had it and ran it. They:

1) May not be RC experts and have no idea what they were doing.2) Have broken parts and may not have realized it3) May consider things to be routine running and you may not.

You are saving cash by not buying new. If you want it to be perfect then buy new.