Cub Tip of the Week!

Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:56 pm

Welcome to the "Cub Tip of the Week." The place to view great tips each week from our FarmallCub.com Forums.

Rick Neuman (Redman) and I were chatting, and he said that a great thing to have on the Main Cub Forum (yup this one ), would be someplace to put an outstanding Tip that can be a quick reference or even just a friendly reminder of a wonderful trick that can be used to help maintain our Cubs. Then I read the Fuel Line Question thread, and poof up popped what I felt was one of the best tips I have seen in a long time.

So, that is what prompted this. The many threads that are posted/replied to throughout this forum are filled with lots of great tips/tricks, but they tend to get lost amongst all of the archived threads. So... Each week a new tip will be posted right here at your fingertips. The tip will be one that is posted by a Forum member and gleaned from these threads. These tips are those that stands out as something that may be of special interest and applicable to all that work on and maintain a Cub. These are meant to be a light bulb idea that may catch your interest, help you along the way, or just be plain entertaining.

A trick ya'll probably know to help prevent cross threading, as can easily happen when connecting the fuel line to the sediment bowl. While pushing the fitting against the bowl turn it counter clockwise (the wrong way) until you feel the threads click. At that point the threads are meshed to engage correctly, and you start turning clockwise (the right way). Just a trick my dad taught me years ago, for what it's worth. Likewise, always start tricky threading situations by hand, until you get a few turns, then use a tool as needed. Not likely to cross thread anything by hand. Sorry if I'm restating the obvious.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

If you have not removed the governor just yet, remove the drive seal first. Then with number 1 cylinder at TDC you can use nail polish to mark the timing gears. There are punch marks on the gears but hard to see (tired eyes ). On reassembly install the governor per the marks and put the new seal in after the governor is installed.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

When attaching a clamp to metal with paint you donâ€™t want to scuff, place two pieces of wood with carpet attached to the wood on either side of painted metal between metal and clamp. This will help to prevent scuffing and chipping of paint.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I think it's important that people understand that neither the pos or neg lead of a battery charger is "ground" It only becomes "grounded" when attached to the battery terminal that is attached to vehicle ground.

Note: Battery chargers are always connected positive to positive and negative to negative.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Find yourself a small concrete brick along with a bag of speedy dry or Kitty litter, and sprinkle a handfull onto the spot. Next, you'll take your brick and grind the speedy dry into the spot and continue this until the spot is gone. It usually only takes less than a minute. Next, sweep up the dust and either throw it out or you can re-use it till it's completely gone.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

They work very well. A little advice and a few words of caution DO Not buy the double drum as it has the same little motor on the single and the double and it is undersize for the double drum unit. 3 LB. ROTARY ROCK TUMBLER.

You will also need to first thing take the top off to access the belt take it off and get a large O ring the correct size as the belt. Once you have the O ring put the original belt back on it. The O ring you got for a spare will be appreciated at that unusual hour that you need it as you Will SURELY need it. The factory belt is good for about 24 hours of tumble and it will break . The O ring however will last for a long time.

Do Not Overload it !!!!!!!!! It says 3 pounds but that is the sand water and cleaner and bolts. I put what would amount to a set of front and rear lugs(20) and a set of square wheel bolta and nuts in a load. Put some degreaser, powder tide, mean green or your favorite cleaner. Put some sand and water and let it tumble for about 12 hours. I have cleaned 100 plus pounds of bolts and hardware and it does a good job.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I know that this has probably been mentioned before, but BD popped it in a thread topic that has been popping up as of late, so here it is.

Just a little trick - If you have some disposable rubber gloves in the shop for those messy jobs, cut the fingertip off of one and stretch it over the end of those shafts with sharp edges. A little dab of Hy-tran and the O-ring slides right over the glove tip.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

There is a easy way to tell what generator belt your tractor will need. If it has the small generator drive pulley on the fan hub then it will take a 21 inch belt. If it has the large drive pulley then it will need the 22inch belt. The small generator drive pulley is close to the same diameter as the fan drive pulley. the larger generator drive pulley is larget then the fan drive pulley.

Last edited by Rudi on Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

You should not turn the nut. Turn the shaft to tighten it. Turning the nut is a good way to break the front cover. Details in the Owner's Manual.

By trying to loosen or tighten the Fan Assembly by turning the nut, is how many of us have been forced to purchase a replacement front engine cover. Turning the nut in the "ears" will crack the cast cover... the shaft is what is to be turned and not the nut.

What Can I Do To Prevent Flash Rusting After Using the Electrolysis Tank?

There have been many questions as of late on the problem of Flash Rust. Many of us who use TSP at maximum saturation in our tanks -- 2 kg or a 4.5 lb box (for you non-metric types ) in a 55 US Gallon or 45 Imperial Gallon tank do not experience this problem even using TSP Free. Unfortunately, some do and those using Washing Soda definitely do.

It seems that possibly "high ambient humdity levels" may be the culprit, but the jury is still out on that theory.

Here we get 2 great tips for the price of 1 Thanks Bob..

I used to work in a metallurgical lab and had to prepare specimens for analysis on a microscope. If they were steel, they had to be cleaned and dried immediately. I used a wash bottle with alcohol and then a commercial grade "hair dryer" to evaporate the alcohol and dry the part. It was easy to do with small parts. For big stuff you could use a garden sprayer to get the alcohol on fast.

You could protect these parts by sealing them in a plastic bag with a sack of silica gel (the "do not eat" stuff) to keep them high and dry until you are ready to paint. You can buy big bags of the stuff and when they are saturated you can bake them in the oven so they can be reused over and over.

Tip #1:

Wash the part immediately with alcohol (rubbing or Isopropy) and then dry with a commercial grade hair dryer. (a good 1500 watt one would be the equivalent)