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True Bias Lander Pant

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

I don't sew trousers very often, but when I do, I'm always SO amazed that it's even humanly possible - I should make them more often, even if only to boost my sewing pride/confidence! Tackling the True Bias Lander Pants was no exception, and the new-to-me technique of a button down fly made it feel like I 'level up-ed' my trouser making game with this sew too. The creases in them say it all - hot off the machine, I wore my Landers nearly all weekend and I really love them!

True Bias Lander Pant, creases and all, in Edinburgh

I used the PDF pattern to make up View B, the cropped pant version, in a greeny/brown mid-weight cotton drill. The pattern is drafted for an average height of 5ft 5". I'm 5ft 6", so I added 1" to the length with the aim of the hem just skimming the top of my new and seriously bold pair of Docs. I veered from the suggested lay plan and squeezed the pattern pieces out of a bit under 2m of the suggested 2.5m, so would probably buy a little less fabric for future versions.

Wrapped up by Arthur's Seat

The make was pretty smooth for the most part and I can't fault the instructions. I'd consider double topstitching some of the pocket details next time - it felt weird only doing one row after the mammoth amount of detail that went into my Isla Trench! The button fly was surprisingly easy to construct and my only stumbling block came when trying to attach the buttons...

It took a lot to get it looking like this...!

A series of total fails on my part led me to nearly ruining my almost finished Landers with the WORST button insertion of all time. I started off by making the holes in my fabric too big, giving the buttons too much room to potentially ping out. I used jean buttons from Green Grizzly and fitted them with my Prym pliers, but I didn't have the right size plier attachments, so used slightly bigger ones that came with some old snaps. This meant wobbly insertion and at least 2 buttons that weren't going to withstand a wear, so I pulled them out.

See below for the absolute HORROR and perhaps the dodgiest salvage that ever made it off the sewing table:

Too big holes :(

Semi-fixed fly from the front

And from the back once the buttons were reinserted

In the end, I made an interfaced patch for the back for the fly, stitched some serious zigzag over the previous holes, and reinserted new buttons closer to the inside-edge of the fly. I used the smallest fitting on my leather punch to make a tiny hole for the button-back this time and stuck a sellotape loop in my plier attachment to stop the buttons wobbling when I inserted them (though in hindsight, I probably should've just used the hammer). A bit shambolic in all, but I have a fully functioning button fly, so who cares!

Just checking they're still fastened!

In future, I would strengthen the right side fly with either a heavier interfacing or some sort of interlining to make it a more habitable environment for those heavy-duty buttons. I'll also make sure to put the buttons as close to the inside-edge of the fly as possible - there's a natural bit of pulling with wear and the underneath can poke out a little. And of course, I'll do a bit more research on jean button insertion before braving it again! Perhaps I should've read this Lander Sewalong post to start with...

Any other tips or links to tutorials would be very welcome in the comments below!

A fully functioning fly, it doesn't matter how we got there!

I love the shape and style of the Lander, though mine turned out a bit more 'relaxed' in fit than I had anticipated - again it's entirely my fault! I'm finding it quite difficult to adjust to my new measurements and I've already had to take in my New Look 6418 skirt, which suggests more than anything that I'm probably just a bit rubbish with the tape measure.

Flashing my new shoes!

I made up a size 8, only realising afterwards how close together the sizing brackets fall. I probably could've sized down to a 6 all along, particularly given that the pattern offers a generous 1" seam allowance on the side seams to help you get a perfect, flexible fit through the hip. I've already cut my next pair in the smaller size and I'm hoping to get that perfect, snug waist/hip fit like Helen (Helen's Closet) managed with her pair.

The straight/loose leg isn't a trouser style I'd usually go for (I'm more of a voluminous culotte kind of girl), but the leg lengthening properties of the Lander are unreal. Maybe it's the high waist contributing to the illusion, because my legs definitely aren't that long! There's also something incredibly feminine about the silhouette, despite me styling them with the least feminine boots!

Checking out the back pockets!

Back view

The pockets looked huge at first cut, so I hadn't expected to be a massive fan, but I think they look great! The fit across the bum is actually pretty flattering (and will hopefully be even more so for my next pair).

In the rest of my handmade outfit in Edinburgh

In all, making the Lander Pant was a hugely fun challenge and real test in 'making it work'. In the past, I would've been put off by an element like a button fly, but I feel much more confident at jumping in and giving things a go - even if it did go a bit wrong! I wore my new Landers with a Fall Turtleneck, handmade hat and scarf and my Isla Trenchin chilly Edinburgh for most of a weekend away there.

Thank you Chris for taking these snaps on our lovely weekend away

It was a learning curve, but I'm totally made up with my Landers and ready to try out pair two, this time in a heavier black denim and a slightly smaller size. Fingers crossed I get the buttons right this time!

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14
comments

These look amazing, Shauni! The fit looks really good, although I totally know what you mean about wanting a snug fit at the waist and hips. ;-) Well done for salvaging the button fly--it would have been awful to get so close and then not be able to wear them!! The color you picked is really versatile, and a black pair sounds like an amazing idea as well. (What color hardware will you use?!? You could do just about anything, really!)

This is a pattern I bought right away and had printed right after that--I can't wait to make them! I really want a pair in the same shade of green as the sample, but a brick red pair and a light denim pair are in my head as well. If only my time were as unlimited as my imagination, haha!

Thanks so much Kelly! I'd definitely recommend them - after seeing loads online I think they'd look great on just about any body shape :) The wide seam allowance on the side is also good for getting the fit perfect for you! Good luck if you do try them x

Just wanted to say that these are my favorite landers I've seen yet, not a huge fan of the super tight hip/thigh with the cropped silhouette and so I think you've hit the nail on the head with this pair. Edinburgh has never looked to chic :D

The rest of the outfit looks great too. Really pulled together and brilliant boots!

Wow that's such a compliment - thank you so much! Think my backdrop brings out the best in the trousers :) Really happy that I managed to make the Landers *just* long enough to skim my boots (though they were a little drafty in chilly Edinburgh)! x

It's funny but in that photo of you from the back where you say, "...such a feminine silhouette" I finally got the Landers. The shape is nice and they look fabulous on you. I remain convinced they wouldn't look anywhere near as nice on me however :) I think your fit is spot on!

Thanks so much Kathleen! I'm sure yours will look absolutely amazing. I've seen loads online and I'm convinced that it's a style that will suit almost anyone. I've just finished my second pair already. Hope you enjoy making yours :) x

Hello!

I'm Shauni. I started dressmaking after a lifelong interest in crafts and creative pursuits. I make clothes using a mixture of indie, commercial and self-drafted patterns and post about them here at The Magnificent Thread!