Hi.
Recently I had problems with a N64 GSPro.
I was able to get some information by using a multimeter to (more or less) find the connections.
I'm sharing the txt file I made here, in the hope it can help someone else.
It's really far from complete, and possibly have some errors/mistakes, but was enough to help me fix the issues I had.

Please, if someone have a more complete, or wish to "fill the blanks" in this "schematic", feel free to use this info.
The only thing I ask is that the information is shared with the community.
If someone have or can find a better/more complete work, please let me know.

I also think more or less the same way.
These things seems to be very badly designed, specially the PCB.
Maybe if someone could make a better PCB they could work better.

sepi wrote:I wish there was easy method to reprogram the firmware.

I had an idea but couldn't try it, since I already have removed the flash ROMs and put sockets on them.
The idea was to make an adapter with an PLCC32 socket on an end and a DIP plug (or whatever your programmer uses) in the other end.
With this it may be possible to flash the ROMs onboard, without removing it.

Could this possibly work?
Wouldn't it damage the rest of the circuit?
Can someonte try it and share the results?

I'm also having trouble with an N64 DexDrive (it's not detected and getting hot), but I think I'll open another thread while trying to fix it.

You can't program memories in system that way. When you put your clips to the memory, you're powering the whole board, and the processor is driving memory's address lines as well as your programmer does and you have bus conflict.

Even if you cut off the procesor's VCC from memory's VCC, it might still be powered through clamp diodes on other lines.

The only way is to desolder it and program out of system or use something like kazzo to force the processor to drive memories with arbitrary address/values that will make up programming commands.

The best way seems to be what I've done: remove the ROMs and put sockets.
I already needed to flash it many other times.
These things brick for almost nothing!!
I discovered that if I enable the code searcher and don't do any search it bricks.
I hope someone redesigns the board and/or do a better software.
Two things I unfortunatelly lack the ability to do.

Maybe pulling the /WE pin up would stop most of the bricks, particularly this one.
It happened to me twice when I was trying to play Automobile Lamborghini, so I give up cheating in this game!
It seems to have copied the begining of the ROM to the flash. Weird, isn't it!!??
A switch should be needed to allow the user to add codes, change the boot emulator and other options.

It would not solve the boot "finickness" of the device, since it's edge connectors have different pitch than an original N64 game, as stated by Parasyte here.
I think the only way to solve this problem would be a board redesign, or is there some other way?
In the same post he also talks about doing a better software for the device.
He seems to have the knowledge to do that, but unfortunatelly lacks time and motivation.

Fisher wrote:I had an idea but couldn't try it, since I already have removed the flash ROMs and put sockets on them.
The idea was to make an adapter with an PLCC32 socket on an end and a DIP plug (or whatever your programmer uses) in the other end.

I once considered this, but unless i am mistaken GS hardware has somekind of encryption scheme so reprogramming the firmware doesn't do you any good. Even if you reflash the damn thing, you'll probably just end up bricking it again. (at least I would)

Now, if you want a functional cheat device try the Xplorer 64. So far, i have been unable brick it.

Yes, the ROMs that come with the Gameshark tools are encrypted.
You can get them unecrypted here.
Please moderators, if it's bad to link to these ROMs here, tell me and I'll remove the link.

You also need to split the even and odd bytes of the file.
You can do it with these tools.
All these files, with instructions of how to remove the ROMS and add sockets can be found here.

sepi wrote: if you want a functional cheat device try the Xplorer 64.

I really would love to have one. I've read that this device is far better and more robust than a GS.
It also seems o have a far better CIC emulator that can allow to play foreign games.
Unfourtunatelly, where I live even GameSharks are kind of expansive.
I've found an Xplorer64 once, but the seller was asking a little bit more than an EverDrive64, wich I think is simply insane!!

Importing is an option, but we have confusing laws and high shipping prices.
Also, most sellers just won't ship to Brazil, since there are people who are simply dishonest with the trades.

I think it's a nice idea to attempt to repair if you can do it yourself or have someone to do it for you cheaply, since it's dead anyway.
Other than that, bricked GSs can serve as a kind of "symbol" of how some cheap cheat devices were made in the past. My kids love this kind of "archeology".

Fisher wrote:
Yes, the ROMs that come with the Gameshark tools are encrypted.
You can get them unecrypted here.
Please moderators, if it's bad to link to these ROMs here, tell me and I'll remove the link.

Unfortunately, My device is Pro Action Replay and not GS. I couldn't find the firmware, and after awhile I just lost interest because i would end up bricking it again. It's kind of waste, I still have the original manual and the instruction VHS

In one, the SharkLink cable has a female 9-pin connector on one end to connect to the serial port of a PC, and a male 25-pin connector on the other end to connect to the port on the back of the GameShark

Last edited by Lilley269 on Thu Jun 27, 2019 12:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

Lilley269 wrote:In one, the SharkLink cable has a female 9-pin connector on one end to connect to the serial port of a PC

That's interesting.
I used mine with a parallel cable I got from a old scanner and it worked fine.
I'm curious to know about this serial cable.

Do you have more information you could share?
Does it work on the same N64 GS PRO I was talking about or is it other model?
I've heard that the older models used a card slot, and it's cable had a plug similar to a card on one end.