You can take any picture and make it better. Images from the newer phone cameras are worthy for postproduction editing. Instagram has introduced many new photographers to the world of filters and how that can take an image and change it. For the first week of this class advertised above we will take this concept and take charge. The class will teach you how to make these filters, control the direction of the filter, color, contrast, etc. We will save it so you can use it again. We will also take the concept of text to a different level – make it 3D, follow a curve, put the image within or around it… You get the idea. Anything that can be done in a simple app can be improved upon in PhotoShop Elements with a few extra pieces of knowledge. In addition we will get deeper into the program to use the features for making cards, scrapbook techniques, merging photos and manipulations. I hope you’ll be inspired to sign up and come! I will post examples of before/after pictures on my facebook page of the same name as this blog: Moments Photography by Sandy.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2016/01/28/73-intermediate-pse/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy2016-01-28 18.56.3972. PSE 12 – Adjust Midtones with Color Cureshttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/23/72-pse-12-adjust-midtones-with-color-cures/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/23/72-pse-12-adjust-midtones-with-color-cures/#respondTue, 23 Sep 2014 19:20:45 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=533Continue reading →]]>Although the name implies a change in color it is really more about affecting the tones. In the fly out window you will have parametric sliders that affect specific parameters: Adjust Highlights, Midtone Brightness, Midtone Contrast and Adjust Shadows.

Select an image in the Organizer and click the Editor icon at the bottom. We are in the Expert mode of the Editor’s Workspace.

Create a new layer of your image for the adjustment. Ctrl J, or on the right, in the layers panel, click and drag the background layer up to the icon that looks like a piece of paper and let go.

You can double click on this new layer and rename it from Background copy to Color Curves

This adjustment can only be found by using the menu at the top. Enhance > Adjust Color >Color Curves

The fly out window gives your image twice at the top so you can see your changes. There is a Tip in the middle – you need to be connected to the web. Click on the blue words: Adjust Color Cures” and it will take you to that section of the Help included with this program.

On the left are automated sets listed under “Select a Style:”

In the middle of this lower section are the sliders. As you move the sliders, it will change the graph to the right. (The the full version of Photoshop you can click in the graph and make the adjustments by clicking and dragging the lines and anchor points)

The graph is represented by having the black in the lower left corner and the white at the top right.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/23/72-pse-12-adjust-midtones-with-color-cures/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy71. PSE 12 – Adjusting to Pure Blacks and Pure Whiteshttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/71-pse-12-adjusting-to-pure-blacks-and-pure-whites/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/71-pse-12-adjusting-to-pure-blacks-and-pure-whites/#commentsFri, 19 Sep 2014 19:44:38 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=531Continue reading →]]>Adjusting the image for pure black and whites was at the forefront of the work done by Ansel Adams. This adjustment is subjective and cannot always be achieved as in photographs on a grey day or a strong color picture. (See additional notes at the bottom of this post.)

Select an image and get into the Photo Editor Mode by using the button at the bottom of the Organizer.

Remember to “Save As” your image with another file name before you get started.

Quick Edit (tab above the image)/Select the drop down menu to the right of the icon named Levels. The drop down menu gives you three tabs: Shadows, Midtones, and Highlights. Click on one of these tabs and use the slider to adjust for the look you want. At the bottom there are also two automated buttons: Auto Levels, Auto Contrast. If you make any adjustments that you don’t like, use the Undo button on the lower left.

Guided Edit (tab above the image). Under the word Open on the upper left you’ll see the word “View:” to the right is a rectangle with a drop down triangle. Click on this triangle and select any of these choices: After Only, Before Only, Before & After – Horizontal, Before & After – Vertical to view the changes being made to the image. In the panel on the right, select: Levels. A pop up menu wants to make a new layer, click OK. Now the pop up window with the histogram for this image appears. To the right in the panel it tells you to move the sliders to adjust the darks with the dark triangle, lights with the light triangle and brightness with the middle grey slider. Then click the Done button. (Below I explain how to use the keyboard for a more precise adjustment – those instructions can be use in this edit mode as well.)

Expert Edit (tab above the image) All of the adjustments can be found under the Menu option – Enhance. (Enhance >Adjust Lighting > Levels or Ctrl +L, if you use this often). In PSE 12 it is also located above the layers palette on the right. Click on the icon that is half blue/half white. Select Levels

A new window appears. This is a histogram, or graph of your picture. If this dialog window is on top of your picture, you can click and drag at the top of it, to move it to the side

There are three triangles under the graph. On the left, is the dark side of the graph and has a dark triangle. To the far right is the light side of the histogram with a white triangle. In the middle is a grey triangle, representing the mid-range or mid-tones in an image.

Hold down the Alt key and Click on the black triangle. Once you have correctly held down the Alt key while you click and drag you’ll see the “threshold screen” which is white. This black triangle is a slider that you will slowly move to the right. Stop sliding to the right when you see the black appear. If you have any black or color already instead of all white, then your image probably doesn’t need any adjustments for the blacks.

Now for the opposite tones. Go to the far right and again use the Alt key and hold it down while you also click to slide the white triangle. The threshold screen this time is black and you are looking for white. Slide to the left just until you see some white appear.

The triangle in the middle can also be use to adjust tones in the image.

Click on OK when done. The image now has an adjustment with color and contrast.

Additional note: The pictures that do not have a pure black will show only a color. Do not try to get a black. Just get a strong color. The color shows that the channel is at its maximum. ***We did not change the channel in this activity above, but you could. Open the levels and note that above the histogram is the word channel with a drop down menu. We left it at RGB. Using the drop down menu, you can adjust the different colors separately. You can also use the automated button Auto, if you so choose.**

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/71-pse-12-adjusting-to-pure-blacks-and-pure-whites/feed/1momentsphotographybysandy70. PSE 12 – Red Eye Removalhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/70-pse-12-red-eye-removal/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/70-pse-12-red-eye-removal/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 11:57:05 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=528Continue reading →]]>With most of the new cameras red eyes don’t happen as frequently as it used to. Sometimes though it is necessary to know this quick fix.

In the Organizer, you can click on a picture to select it. Then click on the icon “Instant Fix” on the lower right. This will give you a new panel to the right of your image. Click on the Red Eye button. A pop up window will show you that the computer is working on your image. And you are done. Remember if you have used any of these automatic options and you don’t like the results, click the Undo button on the lower left. Also you can get rid of this panel by clicking the the Instant Fix button again.

For the Editor Workspace: select your image by clicking on the image, and also click on the Editor button below. Once the space is loaded, then make sure the Expert tab is selected at the top. (Reminder: File >Save As to create a new file to work on. Blog Post #61; Also create a new layer to work on by pulling the background layer located to the right up to the icon that looks like a piece of paper and let go/OR Ctrl J. Make sure this new layer is highlighted and work on this layer, not the background) Look to the tool boxes on your left. In the third box down you’ll see an eye with a plus sign. Click this tool. You will then click on each eye that needs to be changed.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/19/70-pse-12-red-eye-removal/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy69. PSE 12 – Clone Toolhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/69-pse-12-clone-tool/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/69-pse-12-clone-tool/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 03:22:20 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=515Continue reading →]]>I understand that you, as the photographer, were busy capturing a moment, and now have a lovely expression on the subject only to notice the distracting sign just off the left shoulder. Problem? No, not with the ever so wonderful clone tool. This tool duplicates a selected area and allows you to use this selection to cover up the unwanted areas.

Image is selected and in the Editor’s workspace/ Expert Tab

To begin – even if you don’t have any practice with layers… I want you to create a layer to work on by going to the menu bar: Layer >Duplicate Layer (this creates a copy of the photo to alter). OR you can click on the layer to the left of the image, named Background. Click and drag it up to the icon that looks like a piece of paper with the corner folded.

You will get a dialog box that allows you to name the layer. Name it for the problem you are going to fix, ie: Sign. The reasoning for creating a layer to work on is this: it is easier to delete this entire layer and start over, if needed, instead of having to back out of the image, not save the work and reload the image so you can try again. If there are several areas you want to work on, make another layer for each problem – for the same reasoning, you can right click on any layer, select delete and then start again…It’s also true that you can use the History palette to go backwards and get rid of work you have done. I also use the menu bar: Edit > Step backwards.

Click on the tool that looks like a rubber stamp. It is in the second tool box, on the right side, in the middle.

In the pop up window to be sure that you have the clone stamp and not the pattern stamp.

Once the clone tool is selected put the cursor on the picture. It will turn into a circle. If it looks like a dot with four lines coming out in all directions, it is as small as it gets. You can adjust this tool with the slider below the image, however, this is another keyboard action that I find invaluable as it lets you size the brush while you are looking at it and the picture. To use the keyboard, look for the bracket keys located to the right of the letter P. The left bracket makes the circle smaller, the right bracket makes it larger.

Now that you have adjusted the size of the brush, you might have to do it again if the type of brush selected on the options bar (remember there are options for every tool and these are located above the tools and below the menu). The brush is the first option on the far left. Click on the drop down menu and select a brush. I generally use one with a fuzzy edge. Note that the number next to this is the size of the brush (I suggested using the bracket keys to adjust for the brush size, but you can also pick a number in this space to influence the size of the brush).

Mode: Normal (until you have other preferences)

Opacity: 100%

The opacity can be changed at any time. You will need a lower number opacity if you need to blend the edges.

Now the fun begins. Knowing the problem area you want to “color” over, find a place in the picture that has the color and brightness that will match. You make a selection by holding down the Alt key and clicking. Release this and put the cursor over the area you want to cover up. You may need to repeat this procedure a number of times to make the cover up look good.

Additionally – note that the place where you made the selection with an Alt+Click will now have a + sign that moves as you move the cursor. WATCH this + sign as it will pick up colors close by. It will help you to know that if you work on small sections at a time by releasing the click, the computer will save that action and you can use the Edit > Step backward. You can then click and work some more as much as is necessary.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/69-pse-12-clone-tool/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy68. PSE 12 – Zoom Tool and Move Toolhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/68-pse-12-zoom-tool-move-tool/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/68-pse-12-zoom-tool-move-tool/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 03:06:30 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=513Continue reading →]]>Let’s get close up with the Zoom tool. You will need this tool frequently. It especially comes in handy when using the Clone tool. (You are in the Expert Mode of the Editor Workspace). There are many ways to zoom, here are a few:

On the left in the top box pick the tool on the tool that looks like a magnifying glass. Select it.

Look at the options listed in the pop up window below the image you’re using. Note the + or – . Select the one you want to zoom in + or zoom out -. Then put your cursor on the picture and click as many times as necessary to zoom in or out.

You can use the slider to zoom in or out.

You can also select the icons listed to size the image to your preference.

I like to use the keyboard for this one. Hold down the Ctrl key, then tap on the + to zoom in, or tap on the – to zoom out.

Move Tool

Also in the top tool box you’ll see a hand. Select it.

When you place the cursor on the image you can now click and drag the image. Or you can use the sliders to the right and under an image that is close up after zooming in.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/68-pse-12-zoom-tool-move-tool/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy67. PSE 12 – Palettes in Editorhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/67-pse-12-palettes-in-editor/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/67-pse-12-palettes-in-editor/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 02:51:29 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=510Continue reading →]]>Here is the power of Photoshop and all its possibilities. You have selected an image in the Organizer, clicked the Editor Icon at the bottom and at the top of this new section you are in the Expert Mode/Tab.

To the right of the work space is called the Panel Bin. Photoshop Elements places the Effects Palette and the Layers Palette there by default. We are going to add another palette.

Above in the menu: Window > History

By clicking on the Undo History you get two things: this puts the palette into the panel on the right, and you now have an easy way to get rid of anything you choose to manipulate in a picture, once we get started “playing” with pictures. As always in Photoshop, there are more ways to do the same action. We will explore other ways of “undoing” in later posts.

In PSE 12 – once you select Undo History you’ll get a pop up window that has five more tabs of options: Information, Navigator, History, Histogram, Color Swatches, Actions.

If you find that you would like to use any other the other tab more frequently than History; go to the menu: Window > (select the tab name you use most) – this puts a check mark in front of that word and it appears at the front of the pop up window as the default.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/67-pse-12-palettes-in-editor/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy66. PSE 12 – Straightenhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/66-pse-12-straighten/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/66-pse-12-straighten/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 02:27:03 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=508Continue reading →]]>There is more than one way to fix a crooked horizon. Select an image in the Organizer, click the Editor button at the bottom, and make sure you are in the Expert Tab workspace.

Let’s begin with what we know – the crop tool. Click and drag the crop tool, this time you will not begin in the corner of the picture. Drag the crop tool and use the line created for the box as a guide for “square-ing the picture”. Make a square box near the horizon line (or building, or whatever you want to straighten). Let go of the click. Bring the cursor to one of the corners; I like the lower right. Move the cursor slowly as you’ll be looking for the double arrow with a curved line between. Remember we use the straight one to pull the box out to make it larger or smaller. This curved one will allow you to twist the box at an angle. With the curved arrow seen (move the cursor until you see it – it is elusive, so be persistent and use small increments of movement) begin going right or left to make the box twist until you have the line of the box parallel to the line in the photograph. Then increase the size of the crop box to the desired look before making a double click inside this box (or select the green checkmark) to complete this action.

STRAIGHTEN Tool – there is a tool that you can click to do the job (so if there is a tool for it – having to straighten pictures must be a common problem).

Click the straighten tool located under the crop tool. The icon looks like a level used when building with wood.

Click on the left side of the line on the horizon AND drag to the other end of this line before you release.

Upon release the computer will straighten this line. The rest of the picture now looks awkward/crooked.

Click the crop tool and crop the picture making sure that the lines of the crop box run parallel to the horizon line that was fixed.

*There are other options in the pop up menu. If you check in front of Autofill edges, the computer will use information from the picture to extend the picture.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/66-pse-12-straighten/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy65. PSE 12 – Crop Toolhttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/65-pse-12-crop-tool/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/65-pse-12-crop-tool/#respondFri, 19 Sep 2014 02:16:35 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=506Continue reading →]]>The first and hardest paradox I had to relearn when moving into digital photography and out of film photography was the idea that you cropped a picture AFTER shooting. I began taking digital pictures putting inside the frame exactly what I wanted only to find out later that I had to crop and make a smaller image. I was not happy about this and it took awhile to retrain my brain. Now I embrace the idea as it allows you freedom, flexibility and speed to shoot and you are allowed to rethink and change your mind later (changing your mind is something not just privy to women). You can even make more than one final crop saving each image using >File >Save As and a different file name for each one (I add a dash and numbers after the file name). So let’s begin…

Select an image, Click on the Editor button at the bottom of the Organizer to get to the Editor Workspace/Expert Tab.

Pick the tool on your left in the lower box that looks like an unconnected square, click on it.

Once you click on this tool (as with almost all the tools) a pop up window appears below the workspace will give you options. The crop tool is on the left, a shape/cookie cutter tool is next to it.

The next box gives you options for viewing the the crop: Rule of Thirds, Grid, Golden Ratio, None.

Aspect Ratio – No restrictions, or pick one of the standard sizes in the drop down menu.

If you pick No restrictions, the Width and Height boxes will remain empty; pick any of the others and it will fill in the boxes for you. Putting numbers in these boxes is always an option. Notice the double arrows between the boxes. Use them to switch the order. For example width 8, height 10; click the arrows and it becomes width 10, height 8.

Resolution – For a nice print, put 300 ppi (pixels per inch) here. If you want to put something on the web and make it not print well for anyone else, use 70 – 100 ppi. I suggest making the original crop at the higher resolution, then saving an additional copy of the image at a lower number to place on the web by just using the >File >Save As selection (when it asks the final question about saving to the original file, be sure to pick No).

So here’s the dilemma as I understand it, and I’ll admit that I am still learning what my preferences are. The place in the camera that captures the image is larger than the size of photographs developed for the film camera, which means that some part of the image has to be cut off. It was explained to me that the sizes of pictures we are used to: 2×3, 4×6, 5×7, 8×10 are not consistently larger as math calculations. A 2×3 doubles nicely to 4×6, but you can’t get to an 8×10 keeping the crop in tact. The professional lab I use prefers pictures uploaded without cropping the portrait. In this way, they crop for a 4×6 a little differently than cropping for the larger 8×10. If you don’t crop before getting your pictures printed, the place that processes the image will do it. Ever tried to get prints and the heads were cut off? This is why. You need to go into the edit mode when you order pictures and move their little square around so that you can choose what is in the printed picture. It is wise to look into the edit mode for each picture if you are as picky as I am for getting “what I want” from a picture. If you have already cropped to a standard size, just be sure to select the same size of the crop for the picture ordered.

Click on the tool, then click anywhere in the upper left corner, hold the click and pull down and across the image to the opposite lower right corner.

Get the box the size you want it. Let go of the click. Now you can reposition this box in the photo by clicking inside this box, holding the click while you move the box around. A green check mark will appear and a red circle as soon as you let go of the initial click. If, at this point you want to try again to make this box differently, select the red circle and start over.

Click the green check mark when you are finished cropping. Additionally, using the Enter key or double clicking inside the cropped area will tell the computer that you want to apply this crop.

If you decide later to redo the crop, go the Edit menu and the first thing listed is the last thing you have done to the image. Pull down to this Undo option and it will let you redo it. Ctrl Z will undo and you can use the History palette to undo the crop as well.

By using the corners to adjust the crop you can make the image a consistent rectangle. If you click on the little squares along the edge of the crop square, it will end up being an odd shape. I just use the corners.

]]>https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/65-pse-12-crop-tool/feed/0momentsphotographybysandy64. PSE 12 – Editor – Making Preferenceshttps://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/16/64-pse-12-editor-making-preferences/
https://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/2014/09/16/64-pse-12-editor-making-preferences/#respondWed, 17 Sep 2014 02:55:24 +0000http://momentsphotographybysandy.wordpress.com/?p=504Continue reading →]]>These changes are optional. In the Editor/ Expert Tab mode: At some point you will want to use some of the choices/preferences available make your workflow fit your needs.

Top menu: Edit >Preferences > General You will get a pop up window. On the left you have options to make specific choices for: Saving Files, Performance, Display & Cursors, Transparency, Units & Rulers, Guides & Grids, Plug-Ins, Adobe Partner Services, Type

Select: Display & Cursors; Painting Cursors – click in front of the Normal brush tip, and below this put a check mark in front of “Show Crosshair in Brush Tip. I like this because it give you precision when making color selections and cloning. In the box to the right – Other cursors, I like the Precise selected. Click OK