This Mack was coming up Peru Creek with a full trailer. He couldn't make the turn and the trailer slid off of the road and was hanging into the the oblivion. He didn't loose the load.

The road has been improved since I was last on it. It is the access to Chihuahua Gulch, Warden Gulch, and Argentine Pass. Warden Gulch is where TDIJ and I pulled off a sweet salvage last summer for the sake of the woods.

This is still a Forest Service road...so a traffic jam is not normal

I think the equipment was heading up to an old mine for some reclamation work. I guess that is why the road was surfaced with the new layer of gravel and ditches and such.

I would have been up there helping out with that trail blockage... but the rest of us were all working on the beer truck that ripped it's trailer in half and dumped it's load on the side of I70. That was a busy day for us.

Looking good man! I like the shave job... looks clean. What did you use?

The Dodge hubs are yours if you want them... I will be out of town the rest of the holiday weekend... but I will get in touch with your this week sometime and we will figure out how to make it happen.

What all do you need? Do we need to cut the ends of the axle off for the spindles... or just the removable portion?

First and foremost...Since it appears to have been a Tecate truck, where did all the beer go?

What I want the most is the hubs. Those will be mounted to the drum so I will take those as well...but extra shafts are cool as well. I am not interested in the spindles. If this 60 needs spindles...they will be something different.

Shafts and hubs is what I want most. If I have to take the whole axle...I can work with that as well.

If your gonna see heavy rock use I would just cap it with 1/8th or 3/16th plate. 1/8th is still quite a bit to grind through. If it starts gettin thin add some weld to it

I built it to be driven. Granted this summer has sort of stunk since I've been working out issues and have been plagued by a cracked D60 hub. I have spent all my time maintaining and not moving forward (ram assist, hydroboost).

I haven't wanted to stray to far from home. Hopefully, TDIJ and I can pull the hubs of a 1980 Dodge next week. The thing is set to be crushed soon. I can get the 60 running properly so I can drive it for now and maybe sell it.

I also need to drag the 14 bolt over to the shop and get it slung under the Jeep. I have all of the brackets sitting in a pile in my garage. I just need time!

That's kind of what I was thinking on the steel. I want to do something like the Rock Jock skid.

I am thinking about some taking some plate and bending it making an angled skid that just angles up and follows the angle of the diff cover to prevent peeling the cover. We will see, I don't have access to a break so it would have to be with a bench vise, torch, and a BFH!

That's the exact reason I say just shave the lower lips off. Now you have to add something or remove that skinny piece that's left and plate in piece. The plate in a piece will give you more clearance but now its more work.

Or you could just build it back up with weld, add a couple of pass's let it cool and repeat till you got around 1/4"-3/8" built back up. If you weld in plate be mindful of how it wears out.
If the welds that holds the plate down wears off and snag a rock it will peal that plate and whatever its attached to off. Which means you could open up the bottom of the diff.
This is why I say add weld build up instead of a plate welded in.

Don't forget to weld your tubes in to. To me the cover looks like it will leak over time from the missing bolt. You have the room to add a small block to the inside of the diff under the ring gear.
Tack the block in, drill the cover right to the left of were those two welds meet, remove cover and block, drill both, tap block, re-install and weld block back down to housing.

Even if its a small 1/4" screw that will at least keep the cover tight in that area just enough to hold the oil back.

I hadn't thought about laying down layers of weld. That would be an easy way to add some material to the bottom of the center chunk. I am going to weld the tubes on this axle!

I will do it to the 60 when I pull it. I am not convinced I am going to sell it. It may make a nice project axle. New spindles for 35 spline shafts? We will see. I guess I will have to get another build going some day!

I picked up some 1/8" plate today. Hopefully I will have a couple of hours tomorrow morning I can spend on the axle. I will see what I come up with.

As a note, it came out like UCF said it should. Here are UCF's pic's...

They cut straight here. I actually cut at an angle comparatively. I cut parallel to level ground if the pintion was pointing up at 16 degrees - my current angle is 19 and I think it will be about that with this axle under the rig - the 16 degrees simply comes from Clayton's instructions on welding in the truss.

I actually cut lower than the line in this picture. I cut below the line I drew passing just below the top of the bolt hole.

You can weld a price of plate under it. And cut some slits in it to add some weld in the center. But mainly do this to keep from peeling the cover. Let the plate extend underneath the cover to where when you slide on the diff it slides on the plate all the way till your off the diff and never touches the lower lip of the cover

I'm certain you did your shave job fine trust me i'm not saying that, what im getting at is my 14 bolt was in service for a 7 years or longer prior to installing a rear steer 60.
Now during its use I when I first installed it I just shaved the lower lips off, over a 7 year time of rocks it ground its self down to about where you are starting from now.

So what will your axle look like after a few years if some meat is not put back on is what im wondering. This the question I ask when I always see a new shave kit come on the market, is there any history to the shave that proves it will last.

Going forward I would just build it back up with some weld and over time keep an eye on it. If it gets thin then add some more.

You can weld a price of plate under it. And cut some slits in it to add some weld in the center. But mainly do this to keep from peeling the cover. Let the plate extend underneath the cover to where when you slide on the diff it slides on the plate all the way till your off the diff and never touches the lower lip of the cover

Catch my drift?

I totally get what you are saying. That is what I was thinking about doing until Jason brought up snagging that plate.

If the 1/8" plate was welded around the circumference of the cut except for at the bolt surface where it would extend past the surface and preferably follow the angle of the diff cover for about a 1/4" and cut slits for more welds, would that damage to housing if it was ripped off?

You can see that there is about 2mm of the housing below the diff cover.