Monday, 28 October 2013

Repetitive strain injury (RSI) also known as occupational
overuse syndrome is an injury of the musculoskeletal and nervous systems that
may be caused by repetitive tasks, forceful exertions, vibrations, mechanical
compression (pressing against hard surfaces), or sustained or awkward positions

What is repetitive strain injury?

The term repetitive strain injury (RSI) is used to describe a
range of painful conditions of the muscles, tendons and other soft tissues. It
is mainly caused by repetitive use of part of the body. It is usually related
to a job or occupation, that may be caused by repetitive tasks, forceful
exertions, vibrations, mechanical compression (pressing against hard surfaces),
or sustained or awkward positions.

Symptoms can include: pain, tightness, dull ache, throbbing,
numbness, or tingling in the affected area. The symptoms tend to develop
gradually. At first the symptoms may only occur whilst you do the repetitive
task and ease off when you rest. In time the symptoms can be present all the
time, but tend to be made worse by doing the repetitive task. Symptoms can
range from mild to severe.

Exercises

Consult a physician or your medical practitioner before you undertake any
regime of exercise. You can make changes to your working environment and how
you work by examining what you do and how you do it, and modifying the activity
causing the problem. If you can, carry on working but reduce the amount of time
you spend on the activity that causes the pain. If you can't stop doing it
completely, take regular short breaks to stretch and flex your arms and hands.

The key to recovery from an injury is to know your limitations
without exceeding them. Any form of exercise that doesn’t include excess will
help and should be done under professional supervision

Make a Fist

You can do this easy exercise anywhere, and any time your hand
feels stiff. Start by holding your left hand up straight. Then, slowly bend
your hand into a fist, placing your thumb on the outside of your hand. Be
gentle—don’t squeeze your hand. Open your hand back up until your fingers are
straight once again. Do the exercise 10 times with the left hand. Then repeat
the whole sequence with the right hand.

Finger Bends

Start in the same position as in the last exercise, with your
left hand held up straight. Bend your thumb down toward your palm. Hold it for
a couple of seconds. Straighten your thumb back up.

Then bend your index finger down toward your palm. Hold it for a
couple of seconds. Then straighten it. Repeat with each finger on the left
hand. Then repeat the entire sequence on the right hand.

7 Hand Exercises to Ease Painful Hands

Thumb Bend

First, hold your left hand up straight. Then, bend your thumb
inward toward your palm. Stretch for the bottom of your pinky finger with your
thumb. If you can’t reach your pinky, don’t worry. Just stretch your thumb as
far as you can. Hold the position for a second or two, and then return your
thumb to the starting position. Repeat 10 times. Then do the exercise with your
right hand.

Make an “O”

Start with your left hand pointing straight up. Then, curve all
of your fingers inward until they touch. Your fingers should form the shape of
an “O.” Hold this position for a few seconds. Then straighten your fingers
again. Repeat this exercise a few times a day on each hand. You can do this
stretch whenever your hands feel achy or stiff

Table Bend

Place the pinky-side edge of your left hand on a table, with
your thumb pointed up. Holding your thumb in the same position, bend the other
four fingers inward until your hand makes an “L” shape. Hold it for a couple of
seconds, and then straighten your fingers to move them back into the starting
position. Repeat 10 times, and then do the same sequence on the right hand.

Finger Lift

Place your left hand flat on a table, palm down. Starting with
your thumb, lift each finger slowly off the table—one at a time. Hold each
finger for a second or two, and then lower it. Do the same exercise with every
finger of the left hand. After you’re done with the left hand, repeat the
entire sequence on the right hand

Wrist Stretch

Don’t forget about your wrists, which can also get sore and
stiff from arthritis. To exercise your wrist, hold your right arm out with the
palm facing down. With your left hand, gently press down on the right hand
until you feel a stretch in your wrist and arm. Hold the position for a few
seconds. Repeat 10 times. Then, do the entire sequence with the left hand.

Wrist Exercises

Prayer
Stretch

Stand with palms together and elbows out. Slowly lower wrists
until a stretch is felt, hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting
position.

Wrist
Flexion/Extension

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off the table, bend
wrist down until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to
starting position. Bend wrist up until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds
and slowly return to starting position.

Wrist
Deviations

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off the table, slowly
turn hand to side. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.
Turn hand to other side. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting
position.

Finger
Flexion/Extension

Extend fingers open as far as possible. Hold for 5 seconds. Make
a fist as tight as possible. Hold for 5 seconds.

Wrist
Flexor Stretch

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off table and elbow
straight, slowly grab injured hand and slowly bend wrist up until a stretch is
felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.

Wrist
Extensor Stretch

With arm resting on a table and hand hanging off the table and elbow
straight, slowly grab the injured hand and slowly bend the wrist down until a
stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to the starting position.

Supination/Pronation

With resting arm next to body, palm out and sown in front, turn
hands up until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly turn hand down
until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and return to starting position

Wrist
Stretch Exercise

With hand open and facing down, move wrist from side to side,
until stretch is felt at each extreme.Hold each for slow count of 10.

OTC Medication

Medications are
often used to treat acute and chronic low back pain. Effective pain relief may
involve a combination of prescription drugs and over-the-counter (OTC)
remedies. Over-the-counter analgesics, including no steroidal anti-inflammatory
drugs (aspirin, naproxen, and ibuprofen), are taken orally to reduce stiffness,
swelling, and inflammation and to ease mild to moderate low back pain.

Patients should
always check with a doctor before taking drugs for pain relief. Certain
medicines, even those sold over the counter, may conflict with other
medications, may cause side effects including drowsiness, or may lead to liver
damage.

Sunday, 27 October 2013

Some stains are
more easily removed with a pre-treatment; but first ensure that the chosen
cleaner does not have a negative effect on the material i.e. does not cause
colour change. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets
(MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

There are two basic approaches to
removing spots and stains. You can use a stain-removal agent that interacts
with the stain chemically, or you can physically loosen or remove the stain
from the surface. Many stubborn stains require both chemical and physical
treatment.

Brushing is used to remove dried
stains and spots.Flushing is used to remove
loosened staining materials and any residue from the stain-removal agent. This
is an important step in the process, for if any chemicals are left in the
material, they may cause additional staining or they may damage the treated
article.

Pre-treating is used to ease the
removal of small stains, especially those that are oily or greasy. Stubborn
soil is easier to remove after it's been pre-treated.

Depending on the pH of the
product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you
apply any dressing or protective products. The correct philosophy regarding
chemical use is this: “only use
chemicals for what they were formulated for”.

Always select a chemical /
cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by
observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle
or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data
sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

Friday, 25 October 2013

Oil, grease and
other fluids that leak from vehicles onto the road, along with road grit and
melted road tar and lane marking paint accumulate on roads and highways over
time. When it rains this accumulated residue is sprayed onto the paint surface
using water as a carrier system as oil and water do not mix. The highest
concentration of road traffic film accumulates on your wheels, tyres and lower
body panels.

When
rain and surface water washes away all the water soluble components of traffic
film contaminants, what remains are just the non-water soluble parts on the
vehicle’s paintwork. Ultra violet (UV) radiation adheres and then cures these contaminants
onto the surface. Most of the particulates are either metallic, or contain a
metallic element and bear a positive electrical charge. Conversely, the
exterior of most vehicles are negatively charged. Hence, these traffic film
contaminants have a strong magnetic attraction to each other

Washing your car
will remove most accumulated soiling, but normal car washing won't remove road
traffic film (RTF). Auto paint is porous and this film will permeate and cause
the paint to become opaque, dulling the colour.

Correction - the best way to remove RTF is by using a chemical paint
cleaner, something slightly alkaline or a d-limonene solvent / detergent (P21S® Paintwork
Cleanse) or for more stubborn staining Swissvax
Cleaner Fluid Strong, which will remove any road
film that normal car washing could not

Note:Be cognizant that some Traffic
Film Remover products are meant for heavy commercial / construction type
vehicle and are highly alkaline.

These commercial traffic film removers are usually
used with high pressure washers and are formulated with high concentrations of
hazardous solvents that may help to remove the dirt but can damage the vehicles
paintwork over time

Monday, 21 October 2013

Often
from an indoor parking garage, is caused by the concrete being cross-linked
with water and calcium leaching out from the concrete, dissolving calcium
hydroxide from the matrix. On contact with the atmosphere the calcium hydroxide
reacts with carbon dioxide to form calcium carbonate and drips down from the
level above onto the paint surface producing a surface stain.

When water drips off of concrete and
onto your vehicle's paint, it brings with it a tiny bit of calcite and mineral
deposits, and sometimes rust deposits causing an orange red stain from the
concretes steel reinforcement (rebar), which dries on the paint when the water
evaporates, leaving a light coloured streak that is not miscible. These types
of stains should be removed as soon as possible

Correction- (a) to remove the lime residue from glass,
carefully remove with a plastic razor blade

(b) Lime
on paint or plastic can be removed with a weak acid chemical cleaner if caught
early, use a 1:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white
vinegar (Acetic acid) or try 3D Products 3D Eraser –made from biodegradable ingredients (Phosphoric Acid 10 –
15%, Deionized Water 80-85%) that will not harm your vehicles surfaces and if
used as directed, it’s also environmentally safe. Use with very fine #0000
synthetic steel wool, for eliminating water spots on glass. Super fine
synthetic steel wool works best for removing water spots from car windows. Do
not leave on for long and apply in shade. The Gel like consistency prevents the
solution from running down your car surface.

Sunday, 13 October 2013

Bird excrement etching (highly magnified)Bird Excrement Consists of [:
Uric acid, C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid, thus in strong alkali at high pH it forms
the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of
carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid
urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid] [1]

Water solubility
of uric acid and its alkali metal and alkaline earth salts is rather low

[:
the property of a solid, liquid, or gaseous chemical substance called solute to
dissolve in a solid, liquid, or gaseous solvent to form a homogeneous solution
of the solute in the solvent]

Cause -
the different types of food ingested by birds affect the composition and
quantity of droppings. Chemical aggression on the paint surface is caused by
strong organic acids acting for an extended period and exposed to high
temperatures and moisture (reactivity).

One of the most serious threats to a paint surface; it's not
only disgusting - it's a toxic hazard. Bird excrement contains unpleasant
fungi, including Histoplasma capsulatum and Cryptococcus neoformans as well as
bacteria, including Chlamydophila psittaci. Migratory birds, especially
seagulls are known to spread hard-to-treat infections as they can carry
antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

These are known to cause pneumonias as well as systemic
infections. Various forms of encephalitis are also associated with bird
droppings, so avoid direct skin contact.

Unlike mammals, birds don't urinate; their kidneys extract
nitrogenous wastes from the bloodstream, but instead of excreting it as urea
dissolved in urine, they excrete it in the form of uric acid. Uric acid, being
nearly water insoluble, exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look
like a white paste. That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances
are that you so often see on the sides of buildings and splattered on vehicle
surfaces, which if left on the surface
and is then subjected to reactivity it will result in an indentation in the
surface (etching) around the periphery

Bird excrement is one of the most damaging environmental
pollutants as they relate to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and
urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound,
which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted
by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism
in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture
as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.

Reactivity

[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]

Be cognizant that an acid is inert until
it comes into contact with moisture; any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate
reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and
moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc) the more
aggressive the acid becomes.

Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which
forms an acidic oxygen molecule that causes a concave indentation (acid
etching) to the paint surface it should be noted that until this acid is
neutralised subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow
further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it

This will cause surface etching (an indentation
of the clear coat) so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint
care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. At lower temperatures (> 40.oF
or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.

As urethane clear coat paint is heated by ultra violet
radiation, it both softens and expands that same heat dries and solidifies the
bird excrement on the paint surface. Once the paint protection product
fractures (reaches its melting point) it is no longer able to withstand the
acids, which allows them to quickly penetrate the paint matrix.

This will cause surface etching, so they should be removed
without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also
helps preserve the vehicles. The longer the excrement remains on the paint
surface, and the higher the temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be,
and the greater the propensity for paint surface damage

At lower temperatures (> 40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity
and therefore little or no surface etching

Catalyzed
hydrolytic degradation

Definition [:
the damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving
completely. Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena]

Be cognizant that there are no polymers or waxes that are
acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent
factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your
paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is
neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over
the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the
vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a
regular basis.

Paint protection

Most natural contaminants are hydrophilic in nature including
bird poop. Automotive clear coats are generally based on urethanes, acrylics,
melamine’s, silanes, etc. which are hydrophobic and repel water and other
contaminants initially. However as the paint surface gets oxidized
environmental contaminants will bond to the surface. Polishing the paint
surface removes the oxidized layer and makes the paint surface hydrophobic
again for a short period of time.

Waxes (Carnauba and synthetic) as well as polymer sealants might
not offer much protection against bird droppings, they will make the surface
hydrophobic and minimize bonding of the contaminants to paint. This can help
reduce the damage from bird poop and make removal of the contaminants much
easier. Besides being very acidic, bird
droppings contain enzymes which can break down C-C linkages in automotive paint
(See
also this article “.Nanotechnology and other Coatings”)

Note:
some of the newer coating products rely on a configuration
Si-C (SiO2) bond, which are far more
resistant to enzymes than the C-C (copolymer) configuration used
in polymer sealants. Due to the applied coating thickness they are more resistant to the acids found in excrement than a
polymer sealant. Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as
possible. However,
if there is any staining left behind, do not polish it, as this will remove the
coating, since the stains are not a sign of etching and usually they are on top
of Opti-Coat and can break down/disappear after a few days.

Food
Sources

Their main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in
the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any
length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a
non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint
or glass surfaces)

Birds use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds
(owls, hawks, etc hunt and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight
bone fragments, sand and grit are some of the major components, which can cause
scratching.

Excrement
removal

Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush
residue, as they usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will
seal in the acid and not allow it to dissipate.

Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids
should be removed as quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not
neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and
heat.

•Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash)
will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking
soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.

•1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The
alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then
thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use
detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3
minutes and wipe dry.

•Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts
as an acid accelerant

•Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell
®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad
and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary
react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the
acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or
use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3
minutes and wipe dry.

An automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and
heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the
heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water
provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst
(reactivity) each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and
erode the paint matrix

Type
of Surface Damage

Identify the type of damage (Type I Surface staining
or Type II Surface etching (a concave
indentation) Ultra violet (UV) radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat
to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates
the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or
alkali should be neutralized (See
Acid / Alkali Neutralization)

Verification of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed
through the use of a 30X magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint
surface ASAP; proceed by using the least abrasive products first

Type I[is an off-white non-transparent
‘clouded’ stain] that if left for any length of
time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (become non-transparent)
this is usually inherent with a light surface stain.

The paint will usually become stained as soon as the excrement
has dried. Providing it is removed quickly and hasn't been subjected to
reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially
if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint

Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave indentation) around its
perimeter] this is usually the result of a
stain that has been on the surface for a while and has been subjected to
reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which produces an acid that
etches the paint surface. After the excrement has dried the acid will begin to
corrode the paint surface, this corrosion accelerates once moisture and heat
(reactivity) is added, it may take minutes or up to an hour for it to etch the
paint surface

6.Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t
remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

7.Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper and polish
with a finishing polish

8.Apply a paint
protection

Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel
to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components,
which can cause scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint
surface. Once it softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less
likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface
(soon after driving) as this will cause streaking

Use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 /
distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this
will soften debris and allow it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge

Protection

Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish are all acid-based, acrylic polymer or
polyethylene-acrylic o they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain,
bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating,
including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic
wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the
vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.

Optimum
Opti-Coat™is based on a resin pre-polymer
that uses
a configuration of (Si 14) (SiO2 -silica)
bond,
which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer
sealants. As a consequent it is more resistant to the acids found in bird excrement.
It forms ceramic bonds at very high temperatures and
will not be damaged by extreme heat and therefore resists oxidation.

Opti-Coat has better resistance
to chemicals (acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive
coating currently in use. This coating
has a 2-4 µ (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil
Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating like a
regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing,
sanding, or paint

Far beyond washing, cleaning and detailing your automobile
inside and out, the best preservative action you can take is to cover the car
with a car cover. It provides the best protection against industrial fallout
(IFO) dust, dirt; ultra violet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation; bird excrement
and windblown debris (See also Car Cover Section)

Aves
bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum
No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine
mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap bird and
insect excrement, dry surface dust, or light dirt particles making them
virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches (check
contents periodically as heat will evaporate the contents if stored in the
car’s trunk)..

Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little
surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn
stains, soak the micro fibre towel and allow it to remain in n place for a few
minutes and then wipe away the debris.

Caution - Dispose of any
towels or wipes used to remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash
your hands, as bird lime can harbour diseases

Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either
carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to
dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the
acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork
is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and
moisture). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be
levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino
PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then
apply a paint protection.

Excrement
Removal

Be cognizant that the longer the deposit remains on the bodywork
and the higher the ambient temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be,
and the greater the propensity for paint damage. This type of damage can only
be prevented by motorists remaining vigilant and removing the deposit as this
pollutant can have a serious negative impact on your paint finish if not
removed safely and expediently. Also be aware there are no polymers, nanotechnology
coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term
resistance although they will make them easier to remove

Use the least
abrasive product first-

1.Use a paint surface
cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2.Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water
deposits try one or more of the following;

About Me

These articles are college level PhD(tailing) material that is and a wealth of factual discussion that is easily understood and very informative. It is available on Amazon’s Digital Text Platform, Kindle 3 and the Apple iPad. The information in these articles is factual rather than subjective. It is not intended to be a source of opinion but rather knowledge attained by verifiable means, based on tried and proven techniques, methodologies and facts about detailing and the chemicals and products used
My garage
Jaguar XFR V8 Stratus Grey
‘10, Audi S8 4.2 Night Blue Pearl
'08, Mercedes 380SL '84 Beige