I'm installing Rear Float-a-Motor Mount's,, … well I WAS, and wondering why these simple part's cannot be made correctly OR … well someone else might have a better idea than I.

Mounts on the bottom of the inside frame rail, angle forward, all parts are as per instructions, … NOPE, … FAIL, … All bolt holes are to high. Look at the pictures, it's the same on both sides.

SO, … what are the options?

a. Wonder why the heck 3 simple holes cannot be drilled correctly.
b. Modify the Parts to fit.
c. Modify all the holes in the frame and mounting plates on an 87 year old car.
d. Call up CW Moss and ask them what's up?

I'm installing Rear Float-a-Motor Mount's,, … well I WAS, and wondering why these simple part's cannot be made correctly OR … well someone else might have a better idea than I.

Mounts on the bottom of the inside frame rail, angle forward, all parts are as per instructions, … NOPE, … FAIL, … All bolt holes are to high. Look at the pictures, it's the same on both sides.

SO, … what are the options?

a. Wonder why the heck 3 simple holes cannot be drilled correctly.
b. Modify the Parts to fit.
c. Modify all the holes in the frame and mounting plates on an 87 year old car.
d. Call up CW Moss and ask them what's up?

Regards
Bill

THAT's the problem right there. I avoid CW Moss and Vintique as much as possible...

__________________Y-Blockhead'30 Briggs Town Sedan
_________________________________And once again that is just my 1¢ worth.

There is only 1 rubber pad between the FAM outer plate and frame, no rubber pad inside the frame as shown in Brattons new redesigned kit, which fits very well. The key to the design are the new donuts ,which probably should be replaced every 5 years or so. One should compare all the vendors' kits to select a preference.

I read this post a couple times before I realized what Duke suggested. I've owned my car for about 25 years and it was restored MANY years before me. It has the Float-a-motor and I've never touched the donuts. Will new ones make a difference? And how so?
Marty

I read this post a couple times before I realized what Duke suggested. I've owned my car for about 25 years and it was restored MANY years before me. It has the Float-a-motor and I've never touched the donuts. Will new ones make a difference? And how so?
Marty

Have FAM in two cars replaced the rubber last year after 18 and 14 years respectfully. Old rubber was harder than a hocky puck! Well worth it to use new rubber.

__________________No restorable Model A's were harmed in the building of this truck!

Well, Railcarmover started me to thinking about the Float-A-Motor on my car. As near as I can determine it was restored more than 45 years ago. I can's even see the rubber donuts and the cap on the top is printed ANTIQUE and Rosemead, Calif. Does that make any sense to anyone?
Marty

That one is a first for me.All the directions I've seen say the lower bracket mounts directly to the frame,NO rubber on the inside.You did use the rubber between the outside plate and the frame though.I have a set on a truck that that was parked with them in it in 1954,when my uncle went in the service.Those are all steel,no aluminum.I had a bunch or partial sets of rubbers around because I had to buy a whole set and rob just the outside piece.Somewhere along the line at least one of the vendors started selling just the outside piece for people who were using floaters.

this is no help , but I found putting in new ones can be a chore . mine have no problem going in & out . the set that was so much work were new ones on another car . I had to use a punch the get the holes to line up . lots of patience & reading the instructions often .
good luck

I used some longer bolts then the one supplied, once I got the bolt thru the mount and frame, and the washer and nut on I tightened them up and everything went together as designed.
I found the supplied bolts to be about 1/4 inch to short for ease of installation.