You have to have the app, to view stories. Sorry. That's just how it works. I realized half way through my posting this content would make a better youtube video. I decided to even use a wireloom, which ate up WAAY to much of my day, lol.

I'm not using the OEM Knob, however. So I'll have to add my details to a separate thread. I'm on a time crunch with Moab, so I also did not buy aftermarket connectors. I'm spliced right into the harness and using a set of 12V relays, 15 amp fuses, and some new switches.

You have to have the app, to view stories. Sorry. That's just how it works. I realized half way through my posting this content would make a better youtube video. I decided to even use a wireloom, which ate up WAAY to much of my day, lol.

I'm not using the OEM Knob, however. So I'll have to add my details to a separate thread. I'm on a time crunch with Moab, so I also did not buy aftermarket connectors. I'm spliced right into the harness and using a set of 12V relays, 15 amp fuses, and some new switches.

Ah I see. I will have to try and figure out how to get the app.

So with splicing in to the original harness, will you still be able to utilize the original knob as intended for the lockers (not that it really matters, just curious). And did you put any safety switch for them, so they wont lock until the safety switch is flipped?

Sounds about how I did it with my jk rubicon. New switches and tapped into the oem wires. But the factory switches still worked if I wanted to use them... although I never did.

I can see running the hardwire harness all the way to the rear axle if you were going to use an OEM connector, but if you’re going to cut the factory wires, might as well do it up at the firewall/engine bay where it would be better protected from the elements and save 10’+ of wire and loom frustration.

I can see running the hardwire harness all the way to the rear axle if you were going to use an OEM connector, but if you’re going to cut the factory wires, might as well do it up at the firewall/engine bay where it would be better protected from the elements and save 10’+ of wire and loom frustration.

I had a hard time tracing, and when I did, I found multiples of that color wire on my 2015. This was also the case at the sway bar controller.

I can see running the hardwire harness all the way to the rear axle if you were going to use an OEM connector, but if you’re going to cut the factory wires, might as well do it up at the firewall/engine bay where it would be better protected from the elements and save 10’+ of wire and loom frustration.

I had a hard time tracing, and when I did, I found multiples of that color wire on my 2015. This was also the case at the sway bar controller.

You could have texted/call me, lol. I would have told you which wire was the locker source and return at the smart bar....

Nothing's more dead than a horse in a glue bottle.

There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
John Adams - 1826

relay power and ground the locker wires At the smartbar? thats sounds simple enough... does the smart bar disconnect have the same function as the lockers, in the way that 12V power disconnects the bar no matter what conditions exist?

relay power and ground the locker wires At the smartbar? thats sounds simple enough... does the smart bar disconnect have the same function as the lockers, in the way that 12V power disconnects the bar no matter what conditions exist?

That's a really great question. Which wire is the 12v power side of the smart bar for the coupler?

PWJouster wrote: ↑
relay power and ground the locker wires At the smartbar? thats sounds simple enough... does the smart bar disconnect have the same function as the lockers, in the way that 12V power disconnects the bar no matter what conditions exist?

That's a really great question. Which wire is the 12v power side of the smart bar for the coupler?

I’m not 100% sure but I think all the sway bar disconnect circuitry is internal in the SmartBar. Maybe PitSlave could chime in on this without divulging too many of his secrets.

PWJouster wrote: ↑
relay power and ground the locker wires At the smartbar? thats sounds simple enough... does the smart bar disconnect have the same function as the lockers, in the way that 12V power disconnects the bar no matter what conditions exist?

That's a really great question. Which wire is the 12v power side of the smart bar for the coupler?

I’m not 100% sure but I think all the sway bar disconnect circuitry is internal in the SmartBar. Maybe PitSlave could chime in on this without divulging too many of his secrets.

I was banging my head over that "Light Gray and Yellow and Yellow and White color choice. Ok, maybe when brand new, but I spent 5 mins cleaning and getting out my light and being sure my eyes weren't deceiving me. Worst color combo ever! Yellow and orange weren't bad.

I used the EVO JK/Rubicon manual disconnect on my sway bar. If that is what someone is confused about.

I used the EVO JK/Rubicon manual disconnect on my sway bar. If that is what someone is confused about.

I think they are wondering is if one could simply overide and operate the original sway bar setup with a separate switch, like you just did with the lockers.

It's possible based on how the mechanism works, but I dunno if you would be able to wire directly into the harness itself. That doesn't seem likely.

However..... take a look here. I just took this photo of the smart bar control module opened up. The sway bar disconnect acts like some sort of plunger. Then you have a red and white wire leading to it, along with two smaller black wires. I'm assuming that's a bit like the lockers, based on the diagrams in this thread. 12v power, 12v ground, and sensor. You would have to crack it open though I think to bypass it.

You could hardwire the smart bar but I’m almost sure it would be internal splicing, so you’d pull the housing like in Mike’s pic, drill a new hole into the housing and splice the hardwire wires through the new hole to those wires inside.

The third wire is the sensor wire, correct. The mechanism is a solenoid and acts like a start motor solenoid, but uses a sensor line instead of a control line.

Here's what another member said about the sway bar disconnect on another thread, however he was talking about a 3rd gen. He says that it's a motor not a solenoid, which makes sense because when I operate my sway bar it sounds more like a motor spinning than a solenoid clicking.

That wouldnt work, the swaybar motor only turns one way, pushing the shift fork into disengaged position against a spring. Theres a plunger besides it that registers depth and when its happy it sends power to a an electro magnetic brake that is fitted at the end of the motor and i would assume simultaniously (sp?) shuts off power to the motor. Then all you need to Do is cut power to that brake to release it and let the spring push back the whole assembly back to engaged.(not sure if that will make sense to anybody its the best i can describe it in writing. Its a clever but overly complicated design imo no wonder it never work that long) I was thinking about a way to use a a 3 pos starter style switch that you hold for a pre determined amount of time then when you release it from "start" to "on" would actuate that brake but I came to the conclusion that a cable system would be the simper way to go about it. My swaybar has been on a shelf for a few months now in the meantime and i havent missed it yet...

I'll leave this here in case someone else in the future wants to hardwire their lockers from the SmartBar connector. Edit: These are the wires you would cut or splice into to apply power and ground to the lockers. And actually you might not even need to cut the ground wires, it would require further testing to confirm whether ground is constant or controlled by the module. I'm still in favor of using OE connectors for hardwiring rather than cutting wires.