First off thanks so much for all your lovely comments on my pink Eleanor hat! *feels warm fuzzies* You are all so sweet!

Now that my hat is done, I should be working on my 1804 stays so I can make a dress to match right? Wrong - CADD has struck again! I am currently waiting for the scanned and blown up pattern for my newest project to finish printing... a 16th century pink Venetian!

I won't go into the twisted and convoluted path that lead me to need a pink Venetian gown this year, as it's a long and mostly boring journey. Let's just say the need for a new Ren Faire outfit, the desire to use up bulky stash fabric, a romp through the Realm of Venus Showcase and fond memories of the infamous pink Venetian craze at CosCol07 sealed my fate. Besides there is nothing like joining a fad 2 years late! :P

Since I am shamelessly following in the wake of a tidal wave of Costumer greats (seriously, I'm like the only one who hasn’t already made one!), I've given up trying be amazingly original, be overly inspired and otherwise copy details and ideas with my frock. I figure it's wasteful not to learn from other's experiences, right? :>

I'm using the ridiculously pink wool/rayon that I bought in NYC last year. I have some burgundy velveteen in the stash that would work for a hem guard and cutwork sleeves as well, although I'd rather go with a more light-hearted color palette if I can. I'm not allowed to buy fabric for this project (stash only!) so I might try removing the color. Or I may give up the idea of cutwork sleeves and hem guard all together, we'll see.

The pattern I'm working on first is for the stays or "bodies" I'll be wearing underneath. *sigh* I still can't get away from underwear, can I? I've decided to make effigy stays, based on the pattern in Tudor Tailor. While not Italian and dated slightly later than my dress, I think they will work well. Bess mentioned in her Showcase write up that she used it as her gown's pattern base, something I'm planning on doing too so it seems logical to use them for the actual stays as well.

I'd think the effigy stays would work pretty well for that. The way the strap can be worn just at the shoulder should help.

I just finished the third one I've made by converting a GFD pattern to the stays pattern with about 5 minutes work, and then 10 more minutes work to make the bodice pattern. I've never had fittings that involved less actual fitting (they fit so well it was just a matter of deciding where to put the neckline).

GFD = gothic fitted dress which is another way of saying "women's bust supporting cotehardie". Basically because if you research it enough, it looks like the word "cotehardie" probably meant the man's outfit, not the corresponding women's dress of the same period. Colloquially, they are also sometimes called "boobalicious" dresses because of the way the elevate and shape the bosom.

There are (at this point) two basic styles of GFD. One with a straight front seam (devised by Robin Netherton) and one with a "S" curved front seam (devised by Tasha Kelly aka Mistress Marcele in the SCA). I don't think one is more correct than the other, just from different decades. But the curved version is so similar in appearence to the shape of extant German bodices of the 16th century that it got me thinking about whether they were related or not. But in any case, they elevate the bosom to the same place a pair of stays will put it, thereby saving much time in fitting if you already have the GFD pattern.

Thanks! That was my guess but I wasen't sure. :> I did some research in the GFD when I made my Rohan dress, really interesting! It makes logical sense that they would make a good base for early stays...

My five cents on the subject: If you're going for a style as close to the portrait/painting as possible, you hardly need a corset. The bodice is so short at the sides (almost twice as short as most people make it), so if you support the bodice layers right and get the right angle in the front opening, there really is no need for a full-blown corset underneath. If anything, the corset will make your skirt more flat, as it will not have a natural "support" in the bending of the body.

Thanks for your thoughts and all the fun linkage! I guess I'm going for a style kind of in the middle. I don't want to go too long and rigid (not fun Ren Faire wear) but I also don't want to go too short waisted (not flattering on me). I know I could probably get away with just boning the bodice but I decided that personally I would feel more comfortable with a proper foundation garment. Besides, it gives me a chance to experiment with reed and a pair of stays appropriate for future projects that I have on The List (TM).

Thanks to my friends Hips & Tummy I don't really have a problem with flat skirts, especially with a tabbed style of stay like this. Sometimes a natural bum roll really comes in handy! :>

Effigy is a good stays to wear beneath these gowns. I am not totally convinced that simply lacing over a stomacher will work - or not for someone my size and shape! This isn't GFD style fitting!

Also, use the Effigy stays to draft the bodice for the Venetian itself. Thats what I did and it worked perfectly. I just tweaked the neckline etc a bit and I removed the tabs and moved the side back seam to the side. Its one of my most comfy gowns.