Slanted Door

Slanted Door has become so popular in its new location in the Ferry Building that reservationists handle up to 3,000 calls a day for the 200-plus seats. Fortunately, the increased business hasn't affected Charles Phan's cooking. He puts out what many consider the best Vietnamese food in the country, and last year he was named Best Chef for California by the James Beard Foundation. The high-tech space overlooks the bay, and is filled with hard surfaces - white marble floors, black honed granite countertops, cypress tables and two walls of floor-to-ceiling windows. The wine list is superbly tailored to the food.

After a year to shake down, the food is shining again, service has smoothed out. As chef/owner Charles Phan has become more comfortable, he's starting to experiment and add new dishes to the mix. The crab with cellophane noodles is still a must-order item. -- Michael Bauer