Tag Archives: oily skin

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

If you’ve spent much time in the world of beauty, you’ll know that exfoliation seems to be the answer to everything skin. If you’ve got wrinkles – exfoliate. If you’re breaking out – exfoliate. If your complexion is dull – exfoliate. If you’ve got sun spots – exfoliate. If you’re dry – exfoliate. If you’re oily – exfoliate. So how is it that this one action can help to improve so many unsightly skin conditions? And with so many choices on the market today, how are we to know what to look for in an exfoliation product? How do all these different types of products really work with the skin? And could it be that there are risks associated with the overuse and/or misuse of these products?

If you’re a skin care therapist, or if you’ve visited one – you know we estheticians love our exfoliants. We love to use scrubs, enzymes, hydroxy acids, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. Aside from a handful of conditions that contraindicate exfoliating, you’ll see us prescribing the use of exfoliants for just about every skin care concern imaginable. The chart below will provide information on some of the common skin types and concerns and how exfoliating properly can improve them.

How Exfoliation Improves Common Skin Types and Concerns

Dry Skin

An actual dry skin “type” is skin that does not produce adequate oil. This is not to be confused with normal or oily skin that is experiencing a build-up of dry, flaky skin cells. Truly dry skin may be fragile, sensitive, and have a tendency to age prematurely. Proper exfoliation of dry skin will improve skin texture and increase the movement of new healthy cells to the skin’s surface. It may also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles commonly associated with drier skin.

Oily Skin

In oily skin, dead skin cells may have a harder time shedding from the skin because excess oil works as a glue that keeps dead skin cells stuck to the surface of the skin. This combination of oil and excess dead skin cells can clog follicles and lead to increased follicle size and breakouts.

Excess Pigmentation

Pigmentation concerns are a 3-phase process. Excess pigmentation is first activated by some form of stimuli (hormonal, inflammatory, etc.), melanin is then synthesized inside melanocytes (melanin producing cells) and delivered to the surrounding skin cells. The final phase of this process is what we call “expression” this is where we visibly see pigmentation on the skin’s surface. Exfoliation targets the “expression” stage by sloughing off pigmented cells that have moved to the higher surface layers of the skin. It also improves the rate of cell migration from lower layers of the epidermis which can help pigmented cells to surface and be shed off more quickly. It is important to note, however, that exfoliating alone is not a viable option for controlling pigmentation concerns. All three phases must be targeted to provide a true solution for skin with excess pigmentation.

Breakouts

Breakouts can be attributed to a number of factors. We often see complications with excess oil, uneven shedding of the follicles, acne-causing bacteria being trapped in the follicles, and excess dead skin cell build-up (other factors may be involved in breakouts as well). By responsibly exfoliating skin that is prone to breakouts, we can reduce the amount of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, and with certain topical ingredients the follicle interior can also be exfoliated. This can allow increased oxygen into the skin, decrease the amount of trapped bacteria, and clear the skin of congestive factors that contribute to breakouts.

Aging Skin

As we age the process of cells dividing and moving up through the layers of the skin is slowed. Dead and rough cells linger on the skin’s surface longer and eventually we see an increased build-up of these dead, dry cells. As the top of the skin is thickening, the lower layers of the skin that keep the skin looking firm and plump are decreasing in thickness. Rough texture, lack of a healthy glow, fine lines and wrinkles are all common signs of skin that is aging or prematurely aging. Exfoliation of aging/prematurely aging skin can smooth the skin’s surface, speed up the rate at which new, healthy cells are delivered to the surface, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Certain exfoliating agents actually penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and help to restore vitality to the areas of the skin where problems actually begin.

As you can see, exfoliation is an integral tool in managing a variety of skin concerns. Texture is improved, new and healthy cells can move more quickly to the surface, breakouts and excessive pigmentation can be reduced, complexion can become brighter and more radiant, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles can be significantly reduced. The key to these improvements, however, is exfoliating in a way that brings about these positive changes without damaging the integrity of the skin.

The skin is an important barrier and a living organ. It is designed with purpose and function. All too often skin is attacked, abraded, peeled, scrubbed, and over-exfoliated to the point of creating damage to not only the barrier of the skin but also the deeper tissues. The results of improper exfoliation can lead to disrupted barrier function, increased skin sensitivity, injury to fragile capillaries, stimulation of excess melanin in darker skin types, damage to the lower layers of the skin, and premature aging. Unfortunately, we don’t always see this damage taking place, so we don’t make the connection between exfoliating too much (or improperly) with negative changes happening in our skin.

Higher levels of exfoliation should be left to the hands of well-trained professionals. Chemical peels and microdermabrasion should not be performed at home and should be administered by licensed skin therapists. Home-care exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and scrubs should be gentle, used as prescribed, and the skin should be monitored for any changes good or bad. Irritation, excessive redness and/or flaking of the skin are all signs that we may be over-exfoliating. For breakout prone skin, over-exfoliating may actually stimulate additional breakouts.

Choosing and Using Exfoliants Properly

Chemical formulations that include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acid, enzymes, etc. should be gentle and not cause excessive stinging, burning, or discomfort. Pain is often associated with a
product “working” – this is a dangerous viewpoint. Exfoliation does not have to be painful to work!

Look for formulas that have added benefits. A great exfoliator won’t just take away the dead skin cells it will have added ingredients to create additional benefits in the skin. For instance, an exfoliator for dry skin should be formulated differently than an exfoliator for oily or breakout prone skin. Be sure your product is targeted to your specific skin type and condition/s.

Mechanical exfoliants such as facial scrubs should not be overly abrasive and should not be aggressively scrubbed into and over the skin. Go for a “polishing” movement rather than a heavy handed scrubbing action. These exfoliants are best suited to skin when the abrading agent isn’t extremely rough and jagged. The ever popular “apricot scrubs” are well known for creating micro-tears in the skin which, though invisible, lead to inflammation and barrier disruption.

More isn’t better. Over-using exfoliators is more detrimental to the skin than failing to exfoliate at all. Use exfoliants as directed. Generally, an exfoliant should be used 1-2 times per week, but this will vary according to product type and strength. Follow package directions.

Exfoliating Products worth Discovering

With the above guidelines in mind, I’d like to introduce you the SkinPhD exfoliating products. These products are designed to promote positive changes in the skin without causing irritation or barrier disruption. I have personally used each of these products and work with them professionally in my skin care business. They are effective, non-irritating, and the results of regular use are beautiful.

This product is an excellent replacement to harsh scrubs that actually cause damage in the skin.

Think over your current exfoliation routine. Have you been using the same product or method for an extended period of time and aren’t seeing visible results? If so, I want to encourage you to review how you’re exfoliating – how often, in what way, and is the product you’re using appropriate for your skin? Is it providing benefits beyond removing dead cells? If not, it’s time for a change!

Healthy, radiant skin is an attainable goal, and SkinPhD exfoliants can help you reach that goal more quickly, without irritation, and with results you will definitely see.

For more information on our products and signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

SkinPhD is unveiling several new product ranges this summer that target very specific skin care concerns. These new product ranges include our Platinum range that centers on Optimal Aging and our Clarify range that improves the challenges often seen in oily skin types.

I’m so thrilled to be writing this blog! Why? Because I’m so fond of the new SkinPhd Platinum and Clarify formulations and I want to share my excitement with you! Working in the skin care industry means that I’m exposed to many different product and treatment options on an on-going basis. My philosophy in skin care is that we must provide positive change in the appearance of the skin without creating negative side effects and without damaging or creating an imbalance in the skin. Oddly enough, this can actually be a tricky feat for skin therapists. A number of professional treatments and product actives may create a positive effect in the skin, but when used in excess or improperly these same treatments and ingredients can be highly aggressive and detrimental to skin health. I believe we find these types of actives and treatments most abundantly in the anti-aging and oil-control/breakout realms, and this is why I’m thrilled about the new SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify ranges.

SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify will improve challenging skin care concerns without compromising skin health. In fact, these products will encourage the integrity of the skin! Let’s now look at these two ranges and a couple of the ingredients that make them unique.

SkinPhD Clarify is developed for clients who have oily and challenging skin.

﻿﻿ ﻿﻿﻿﻿﻿﻿

A key feature of this product range is the Honeybush plant – a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal plant from the Cape of South Africa. Honeybush is a close cousin to the well-known Rooibos plant. Often consumed as a tea, Honeybush is characterized by a sweet, honey-like scent.

In our Clarify line, Honeybush not only reduces levels of bacteria in the skin but also provides other layers of protection much needed by oily and problem-prone skin – including anti-inflammatory activity and antioxidant protection.

Key features of Honeybush:

Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral

Limits the growth and reproduction of Propionibacterium Acnes (P. acnes) – the bacteria associated with breakouts

SkinPhD Platinum is a cosemceutical range formulated for mature skin that is experiencing dryness, changes in hormone levels, fine lines, and wrinkles.

In addition to living plant cells, peptides, and patented collagen-building actives, this range contains Zincite – a zinc carbonate that may be found in an array of colors. The use of zinc dates back to ancient times when the Chinese used the mineral to reduce scarring.

Modern science has come to know zinc as an important mineral in the activity of over 200 enzymes. Zinc also plays an important role in every biological component related to growth and development.

Key Features of Zincite:

Plays a vital role in DNA and RNA metabolism – without zinc, cell division ceases

Assists in elastin and collagen synthesis

Protects DNA

Increases cellular repair

Suitable for daily application

Provides constant cellular protection against environmental stress

Improves skin elasticity and texture

Accelerates the renewal of skin cells

Reduces MMP-related collagen degradation

Non-iritating

As you looked over these featured ingredients did you notice the multiple-benefits they both possess? These are the types of ingredients we at SkinPhD love! As nearly all skin care concerns are related to multiple factors within the skin, we require ingredients with multi-faceted functions to truly create a positive environment for healthy change in the skin’s appearance.

SkinPhD Platinum and Clarify are full of sensible, suitable, effective ingredients and will deliver the results our clients demand.

For more information on our products, ingredients, or signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

Summer is going to be an exciting season with SkinPhd. As we unveil new and wonderfully unique product formulations, users of our products will be introduced to some fantastic ingredients that are sure to become favorites.

As a skin care therapist, I’m constantly reading labels. I read product descriptions and ingredient lists like they were novels. My eyes scan over the often difficult to pronounce ingredients and my brain processes through each one of them in a “This does this, that does that… Oh what’s this?!” sort of fashion, and when I find something I’m unfamiliar with – I research it. Today I’m going to discuss an ingredient that I wasn’t very familiar with until I began working with SkinPhD, but once I learned about it and how it functions in our Renaissance range I quickly became excited. In case you’re unfamiliar with our Renaissance products, they are formulated for the unique needs of skin of color, and Marula oil (today’s featured ingredient) is a key constituent of the Renaissance range.

Marula oil is an extraordinary plant oil, indigenous to regions in Africa including South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, Malawi, and Zambia, Mozambique, and Swaziland.

The Marula tree may grow up to 20 meters in height (about 65 feet), and is found in low altitudes and open woodland areas. The ripened fruit of the Marula tree is yellow to light orange in color with a very thick skin and possesses about 8 times the amount of Vitamin C found in an orange. Inside the fruit are hard-shelled seeds which contain two to three kernels. Marula oil is extracted from these kernels.

The history and uses of Marula have been traced back thousands of years. Marula fruit may be eaten fresh or used to make jellies, juices, and alcoholic beverages. The oil has numerous skin benefits and is used to condition and protect the skin. The bark has been used to treat fever, malaria, scorpion stings and snake bites. The tree is referred to as the “Marriage Tree” by some cultures, and the bark is brewed to create a tonic which is used as part of cleansing ritual prior to marriage ceremonies. The leaves are commonly used to treat heartburn and indigestion while other parts of the tree may be harvested for use in certain tribal ink preparations, for creating dyes for craft wares, and for making rope.

Now that we’ve discovered what the Marula tree is and its many uses, let’s discuss what Marula oil can do for the skin.

Marula oil is rich in mono-unsaturated fatty acids. These protective, healthy fats help restore the barrier of the skin leading to increased hydration, elasticity, smoothness, and suppleness of the skin. Marula oil absorbs quickly so it will not leave the skin feeling heavy or greasy. This is a fantastic benefit, as those of us who work with skin well know – our clients who have oily or breakout prone skin often need skin conditioning agents that will reduce trans-epidermal water loss but they will be unhappy with any topical that makes their skin feel greasy or heavy. Marula oil has shown itself to be effective in producing positive, visible improvement in both dry and oily or breakout prone skin.

Marula oil is also rich in antioxidants including tocopherols (Vitamin E), flavanols, condensed tannins, and catechins (similar to those found in green tea).

These antioxidants protect the skin from free radical damage, but the oil has an added benefit that many antioxidants cannot claim: it is highly stable. This means that Marula oil has exceptional resistance to oxidative degradation and easily stays efficacious in product formulations. We skin therapists, recognizing the detrimental activity of free radicals, are always thrilled to hear about the antioxidant properties of given ingredients, but we must also be aware of whether our ingredients have a viable shelf life and whether or not these ingredients degrade quickly once the package has been opened. Marula oil is remarkably stable and will provide your clients with antioxidant protection long after the bottle has been opened.

In addition to the wonderful benefits described above, Marula oil has also been shown to improve the appearance of skin affected by the following conditions:

Dry / Cracked

Psoriasis

Eczema

Redness

Acne

Wrinkled

Scarring

Sun damaged

Chapped lips

Finally, I’d like to discuss one facet of this ingredient that makes me even happier. Though I may work as a skin therapist, I’m first and foremost a human being – with love in my heart for all the people of the world and all the world’s rich wildlife and geography. Our Marula oil comes from a fair trade, ethically sourced, and environmentally sustainable supply chain. That’s great news to me, and I’m sure it is to you too!

Beyond Beauty & Skin – The founders of Placécol USA are launching a potent, clinically-endorsed range of cosmeceutical skin care products – SkinPhD. Our products are formulated and manufactured in South Africa where rich African extracts and the latest innovations in cosmetic technology are combined to create a product range that balances, nourishes, and renews the skin.

Our philosophy in caring for and correcting skin results in a product portfolio that has undergone rigorous testing, is suitable for sensitive skin, and is endorsed by dermatologists. SkinPhD products are intended to correct and balance the skin without aggression. Our formulators ensure that the ingredients used in our products will create positive changes in the skin through the use of materials that improve the skin’s barrier function, maintain healthy skin pH, reduce inflammatory conditions, and bring balance to the oil and water content of the skin. All skin types experience positive results when these important areas of skin health are addressed.

As a cosmeceutical range, our products rely on bio-active ingredients to produce beneficial changes in the appearance of the skin. Bio-active ingredients work beyond the skin’s surface to create true change. Some benefits of bio-active ingredients include increased cellular renewal and regeneration, improved barrier function, and the stabilization of collagen and elastin. SkinPhD features a host of bio-actives including vitamins, polysaccharides, botanicals, proteins, peptides, and enzymes.

Renaissance – A complete range of products for skin of color – This range addresses the unique needs of skin of color and features indigenous African ingredients Marula extract and Kalahari Melon.

Platinum – A complete range of optimal aging products – These powerful anti-aging formulations contain Phyto-Hormones, Collagen-Building Actives, high levels of Antioxidants, and Zincite. Zincite is a semi-precious stone that plays an important role in the metabolism of DNA maintaining their double-helix structure, aids in cellular proliferation and survival and brings long-term geno-protective benefits.

In addition to our existing product ranges, SkinPhD will be launching an exciting new selection of products intended to clarify problem skin. This range will feature a powerful yet natural purifying ingredient – Honeybush. Honeybush is a sibling of Rooibos and is cultivated in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region. It is a natural anti-fungal agent and is rich in iron, potassium, calcium, copper, zinc, magnesium, and manganese.

SkinPhD reaches beyond beauty and skin.Value, excellence, and integrity are at the core of our vision.Our products are a viable choice for skin of all types, conditions, and ethnicities. We welcome you to the SkinPhD brand and invite you to experience the wonderful changes our products have to offer.