Monday, December 27, 2010

This post is for those that are interested in going the Ayurvedic route for the 2011 Healthy Hair challenge. - Ayurvedic regimens typically include cleansing the hair with herbal infusions, and conditioning the hair with nourishing oils. The result is hair that is extremely healthy, thick, and full of body. Ayurvedic regimens can be as simple [incorporating a few elements], or as complex [following a strict regimen, cutting out commercial products] as you choose.

The benefit of adhering to an exclusive Ayurvedic regimen is that you will be using products free of silicones, preservatives, synthetic ingredients and harsh sulfates. I can honestly say that my hair thrived under these conditions. The drawback to practicing an exclusive Ayurvedic regimen is the amount of time it takes to prepare treatments. However, you can also decide to incorporate highly effective elements of Ayurveda into your regimen, such as Henna treatments, Coconut pre-shampoo conditioning treatments, and herbal pre-shampoo conditioning treatments. These inclusions are extremely beneficial for the promotion of healthy, thick, vibrant hair; yet require less time commitment than an exclusive Ayurvedic regimen.

Want to include simple elements of Ayurveda without committing to an entire Ayurvedic regimen?

While there are many ways to use the products mentioned in this post, the following products are Ayurvedic treatments that have been the most effective during my hair journey. These products also include numerous traditional Ayurvedic herbs which is a plus for those that aren't into complex hair regimens which requires the purchase of tons of different ingredients. Get the benefit of Ayurvedic herbs with only a few easy to find products.

You will need:

Vatika Oil: Vatika Oil is comprised of Coconut Oil and infused with traditional Ayurvedic Herbs [Brahmi, Neem & Amla just to name a few] Coconut Oil strengthens hair at the roots, promotes hair growth, and actually penetrates the shaft to repair areas of the hair damaged from protein loss. - Vatika Oil has been a staple in my home for the past two years! It makes my hair extremely soft, shiny, and manageable.

Kalpi Tone: Kalpi Tone works to strengthen hair at the root, strengthen the hair shaft, and promote hair growth. Kalpi Tone leaves your hair noticeably stronger, softer, and full of body. Those that wish to keep their regimen simple will also appreciate that this powder includes other herbs beneficial to hair care [like amla, maka, hibiscus, and methi just to name a few]. Kalpi Tone is hands down one of my favorite pre-packaged herbal hair products by Hesh.

Henna: Think of Henna like a natural protein treatment. Henna works to stop breakage by strengthening the hair shaft. Henna also works to seal and repair the cuticle which makes for more manageable hair, a plus when it comes to detangling. Although Henna is mainly known as a mega strengthener, Henna has conditioning properties as well, which leaves the hair shiny, soft and full of body.

How to use these products in your regimen: You may notice there are two pre-shampoo conditioning formulas here. You can stick to one, or alternate weekly.

Vatika Oil/Pre Shampoo Treatment: Once weekly [on washday], oil unwashed hair liberally with Coconut Oil and cover hair with a plastic cap for about 45min-1hr. This is known as a pre-shampoo conditioning treatment. Pre-shampooing will help ensure the hair stays moisturized even after shampooing with a product that contains sulfates [which is usually drying to hair]. Another benefit to this quick and easy pre-shampoo treatment is that it also works to strengthen and nourish hair follicles; preventing hair fall and promoting hair growth.

*Coconut Oil tends to solidify in cooler climates; to use just run the bottle under warm water to bring it back to a liquid consistency.

**Vatika Oil is safe to use on relaxed and transitioning hair alike.

Lock in the moisture with Vatika Oil: You can use this oil to seal the moisture in after using your favorite moisturizer. Add a dime size amount of oil to your hands, rub hands together to distribute oil, then apply to the entire length of the hair paying special attention to the tips/ends.

Kalpi Tone/Herbal Pre Conditioning Treatment:Once weekly [on washday], add 3-4 tablespoons of the herbal product into a clean container. Add water, 1 tablespoon at a time until the mixture is a thick, muddy consistency. Apply the mixture liberally [as you would a relaxer] to unwashed hair. Cover, and allow to sit for 20-30 minutes. To rinse out, add a few generous size dollops of cheap conditioner [like V05, or Suave] to your hair and work it through in a gentle, massaging motion. Rinse immediately, as the tiny flecks of herbal product should rinse clean with the aid of the conditioner.

I recommend the following brands of Henna: Jamila,Nupur, and Dulhan. If you have relaxed or transitioning hair, please use Body Art Quality Henna only [like Jamila]. You can also purchase Henna at your local Indian Grocer, or {here}.

Are you interested in an exclusive Ayurvedic hair regimen?

Check out the following posts which includes recipes for cleansing, conditioning, and moisturizing your hair.

All products mentioned above can be found in your local Indian market. I recommend going to one of the larger markets for a better variety of products. If you are having trouble finding an Indian grocery store in your area, you can also purchase many of the products mentioned via vendors on Amazon or The Indian Food Store [link].

Questions are always encouraged! You can leave a comment in the comment area [I will check comments nightly], and also ask questions during the two check-ins I will have monthly.

@Anonymous; You can Henna your hair whenever you choose. The issue with Hennaing hair stems from using Henna that has synthetic ingredients/or metallic salts, as they adversely affect colored/relax hair. - To avoid this issue, Henna hair with body art quality Henna, like Jamila [a trusted and reliable brand that many relaxed, natural, and transitioners have great results with]

@Alexandra: If you are protein sensitive, I recommend doing a Henna Gloss. Henna itself doesn't have any protein in it, however the Lawsones found in Henna strengthen the hair like a protein treatment would.

HI is there another powder that can be used to condition hair besides using Hibiscus powder in mixes you have suggested from Ayervedic 1 and 2? I have many powders that you have suggested and I no longer have any more Hibiscus powder, just wanted to know before I order more Hibiscus.

Hello Nikole, First off I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am interested in joining the challenge, but my hair is relaxed and I’m afraid it might cause some complication? I haven’t had a perm in several months; I usually perm my hair twice a year. Can you please help?

I've decided to include my little ones in on the fun. They LOVE having their hair pampered, so everything I do for my hair, I'll figure from that what I can do for them and take note. I may even blog about it! (OOOH! I definitely will!)

My family and myself are so excite to start the hair regimen! I must mention we are brand new transitioners. We are in the process of buying our products for the New Year. Thank you for recommendation! Questions? What moisturizer, deep conditioner, moisture sealent, scalp treatments, & protein treatments do you recommend we purchase? Also, is this regimen appropriate for my 8yr old daughter and 14yr old nieces hair?

First and foremost, thank you for such an insightful article, I'm loveN this method! I currently have a bottle of neem oil, which smell horrible by itself! Kinda of like peanut butter. I simply add this to coconut oil and olive oil. The last time I henna'd, about 2 years ago, there were bits and pieces of the henna product still left in my hair, which turn me off completely. Is this normally the side effects or is the Jamila, and the other recommend brands, simply a paste and rinse out completely?

I just wanted to say how awesome and thorough you are. My ayurvedic regimen is a little more on the complex only in that I use various powders depending on what my hair needs but this is great advice for someone just starting to experiment with ayurvedics. :) Great post.

You did it once again your timing is impeccable! I was really wondering what are the key ayurvedic staples needed because I am pregnant and due in Feb. 18. and I have a two year old and won't be able to spend as much time initially on my hair. So thank you for these hair challenge post. Some questions: 1. Have you tried the Nupur henna yet with coconut milk and honey? If you have tried it do you have a preference or think there are any pros or cons when using the Jamila henna vs. Nupur henna?2. Do you deep condition after your Henna gloss or you feel no need to because of the amount of conditioner already in the gloss? 3. Do you still use the Ayurvedic Shampoo bar from Chagrin Valley? I just order that bar along with the Neem and Tea Tree bar and Nettle bar but I'm waiting to after I give birth to use them to be on the safe side. Thank you in advance for all your help :)

this is so ironic. i was looking to where i could find amla by hesh just today. i found the indian food store but didn't know if it was a trustworthy site. my friend uses amla and her hair is responding amazingly! thanks for the info though!

I love your blog. It is really helping me deal with my hair. I bought henna in the first few months of 2008 (Brand: Jamila) and it has been stored at room temp in a my drawer with hair things. I was wondering if it would be safe to use the henna I already have or if I should disgard it and buy new boxes? Also, I have heard from other sites that it is not safe to buy henna from indian stores because it is not always the henna that is safe to use on hair. Is that true?

Thanks in advance for your help!BTW, everyone says that we look alike! Take care =)

I sent you an email about this. I am super confused when it comes to regiment building because I do not want to become a product junkie. I have been transitioning since July but I am just now practicing healthy hair practices (maybe mid-November) so I need to re-boost my hair! I am currently in a sew-in that I am ready to take out )only had it for 2 weeks) and I want to try all these things before I go back under :) Thanks for the advice... and I'll be waiting to hear from you soon!

Hi Nikole, I really want to try some of these conditioning treatments, however I have naturally sandy-brown hair and am weary of using henna and hibiscus because they are known to dye hair. Will the amounts used in the treatments change my hair color? If so, are there any alternatives with the same benefits?

Wow! I just ordered all of the above mentioned products and can not wait for the shipment to arrive. Maven have you used Jamaican Black C Oil shampoo? If so, how did you like the product? My hair is permed and I am looking forward to the hair challenge. I am committing to no heat for 3-6 months. I will be using flexi rollers and bantu knot outs. I want to see what my hair can do with no heat, a great regime, and a little time.

Thank you so much Nik. I was thinking about doing this method but I wasn't sure where to start. You attribute your hair growth to partly moisturizing. When using this method though what do you use to moisturize your hair before sealing in with Vatika oil?

Good Morning All: @Anonymous; To be honest, I have tried substituting various herbs and did not get the same result. The hibiscus is highly conditioning, so far I have yet to find a comparable Ayurvedic herb.

@Stacy; Appyling indigo is very easy to apply. You apply it the same way you would Henna, or even a cellophane for instance. I purchase my Indigo from Henna for Hair, as I have been pretty unsuccessful as of late trying to locate it on ground.

@Lenora; Yes, you definitely do this before deep conditioning. It's like an amped up pre poo treatment :-)

@Shauna; It really just depends on the overall health of your hair. Sulfate-free shampoo's still have surfactants, albeit not as harsh as Sodium Laureth, but they can also be drying. If you don't have a problem with dryness, breakage, or split ends, I would say it is safe to skip it if you want :-)

@Anonymous; Do you mean complications in regards to the Ayurvedic regimen? The products I listed are safe to use on relaxed, natural and transitioning hair alike. You can however decide to go the traditional route and stick to traditional products if you are uncomfortable going with an Ayurvedic regimen. Later on today I will have a post for relaxed ladies!

@alizé; The products mentioned above are safe to use on relaxed hair. If you are leery on doing an exclusive Ayurvedic regimen on relaxed hair; you can opt to do a more traditional regimen [using your normal shampoo + conditioner] and incorporate some of the methods listed above.

@Anonymous; Congrats on taking the plunge, and I commend you for getting the whole family involved! What type of regimen are you seeking? That will determine the type of products you need to purchase. Are you looking for natural products? Do you have a specification?

@LoveNWright; Thank you! Henna can be a pain to shampoo out sometimes. No doubt about that...lol - Sometimes when I have stubborn flecks, I dump my head in a tub full of water and it really helps to get rid of the Henna residue. It works more than shampooing 2-3 times.

@Anonymous; Yes, you do all of those in the same day. Now of course it is your choice what you decide to do, I am just providing you with what would be ideal. So ideally you would do a pre-shampoo conditioning treatment [with one of the recipes listed, as I posted two], then you would shampoo, then deep condition, then style.

@Anonymous; I have never tried it like a Henna Gloss, but honestly you can't lose with that mixture. I am almost certain you will get results with that combination, as they are all geared towards conditioning the hair.

@Nadia; Thank you! And congrats on the new addition! I honestly have never tried that mixture, but I will do it because it sounds amazing. LOL - I honestly don't notice a difference between Nupur and Jamila. They both leave my hair feeling the same, and they are easier to shampoo out vs brands I find in my local Indian store. - I still do use that shampoo bar, and love it! I hope you will too :-)

@Anonymous; I recommend buying new boxes of Henna for best results, I'm sure if you purchased the henna in 2008, the crop was probably harvested in 06 [guesstimate] perhaps which makes it almost 5 years old. - Also, if you can purchase body art quality henna in your local Indian grocery store, then definitely go for it. I have lucked up and found Jamila several times, and used it with wonderful results. - It is normally the Henna marketed for hair that people are usually leery about.

We're interested in using the most effective, affordable, and the least time consuming products. Questions? Should we use your reommended transitional products with the 2011 regimen or use your recommended ayurvedic regimen one and two products?

@Jacinte; Glad you asked *And I will update the post shortly* you can use Cassia in place of Henna which will not affect hair color at all. I honestly don't know of an Ayurvedic herb as moisturizing as Hibiscus that you could sub with the same results. You can use Fenugreek [as it hydrates well], and it doesn't dye the hair like Hibiscus.

@C.Foots; I actually loved it! It's a little heavy for me though, so I really only started using it the past few months due to our cold weather! Congrats on giving up the heat for a few months!

@K Let it sit out at room temp :-)

@Ruvarashe; You can use an herbal infusion. Like hibiscus leaves [2 tablespoons] steeped in 2 cups of hot water for 20 minutes [make sure to strain the leaves before pouring in the bottle] - Or you can use a commercial product. I loved Oyin's juices and Berries

The Hennas that you recommend, do they alter your curl texture? Is there one specifcally Henna that WILL not change your curl pattern? My concern is that I do not want my hair to change from Curly to Straight. Thanks a Bunch!!

FIRST OF all thankyou for all you share on this blog!!! I am going to take the Ayurvedic Herbs with some store bought items challenge for 2011. Last night I went and bought Vatika oil and some other Hesh products (Hesh alma)and Jamila Henna! I used the vatika oil last night with shea butter and this AM with paul mitchell pomade and Cd lisa's hair elixer...I also used the Hesh toner last night YAYAy my curly length is at the ears and straightened past my ears my goal is to have shoulder length curls!!!!! Thanks so much

Great Info....One question...Do these ingredients come pre-mixed?I came across a site that had the same Ayurverdic ingredients raw and as shampoo OR oils as an option.I checked them against your ingredients listed,they just came bottled already.Is that ok?Honestly,knowing me I think this would turn into a science project and I'd the the ONLY one to do it wrong :-(.PLEASE HELP :-)

I love your site! Thank you for yet another educational post. I have been transitioning for 9 months and find my hair growth to be slow so I am definitely interested in trying something that may enhance my hair growth. Sorry if I ask questions that you've already answered: I have read on numerous sites that Vatika oil smells bad. Do you find this to be the case - if so, how do you mask the smell or is there a brand you recommend that doesn't smell bad. Also, how do you remove henna stains from tub/sink?

Thank you soo much for answering my long winded questions. As always I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your blog and if no one as told you this today let me be the first, Great Job (as usual)!

I just love this blog. I'm a bit reticent to go fully natural, but reading this gives me so much hope. I've been about 10 weeks post relaxer, and just recently started incorporating some of your information, and it's already making a HUGE difference in the health of my hair, and that's only been about 2-3 weeks! While I may or may not ever go fully "natural," all of your hair care information has been worth it's wait in goal.

Hi Nikole! I truly love this site. A co-worker shared it with me and I've been hooked ever since. I am very interested in participating in the healthy hair regimen challenge and I have a few questions: a) should I participate if I want to switch between protective styles and blow drying my hair over the course of the regimen? b). I've been without a perm for four years but I still have straight hair (ends) from color/ heat damage, so which henna product should I use? c) how can I reduce shrinkage in my protective styles? Due to my straight ends I have to roll the ends of some of my twists and it gives major shrinkage. Any tips and suggestions would be helpful :-)Thanks for all of the information about hair care and everything else!

Hi Nik! I plan to use a blend of all three methods and I'm trying to incorporate Kalpi Tone as a pre-conditioning treatment when I co-wash. My only concern is color. I already Henna/Indigo with a 4:1 mix to turn down the red. Will using Kalpi tone gradually darken my hair?? The product info says it "gives a dark tinge to the hair". I really don't want a darker color. I had the same concern when considering Hibiscus powder...don't want redder hair. Help!

I love this blog!!! So having a proper regimen is high up on my New Year's resolution list. I have relaxed hair and my hair was only thick when it was natural. Whenever I straightened and when I was finally allowed to relax my hair it remained very thin. Is this regimen only for Natural hair? If it is do you have any tips or suggestions about products I can look into? I am not good at styling my hair and I am trying to do more with my hair but it's actually kinda of sad how terrible I am at styling my hair.

Do you think its a good idea to substitute the Kalpi Tone Powder with Nupur Henna? I am having a hard time locating the Kalpi Tone locally, and don't to spend $8.00 shipping at the online Indian Store (I'm being cheap)!

If I want to do a henna or protein treatment, at what point do I do that step? I was thinking that would be first, but you have to rinse it out and then your hair would be wet-which you recommend not to detangle hair when wet. Would I do the treatment after detangling, then do a pre-poo and so on? Or would the henna/protein treatment take the place of the pre-poo?

Hey MTM. I deleted the previous posts, b/c after a few days and few rinses, my hair actually reverted back to its normal coily self. I'm thinking the effects were only temporary. Needless to say, I'm ecstatic, and I will use the amla powder again. However, this time, I'll only leave it in for the recommended 45-1hr time line.

Hello! I am excited about the hair challenge. I have 2 questions before I start.

First ?: Do you wash out the Vatika Oil (pre-shampoo)before you wash your hair? Second can I omit the Henna part since I just dyed my hair with a permanent color or would the Henna Gloss work and not change the color of my hair?Thank you!Tarra

Thanks in advance for sharing such valuable information. I'm joining the ayurvedic challenge and have already purchased my products including henna. I want to start off with the henna gloss, because my hair is naturally dry. I also wanted to know if it's been effective in covering gray hair. I have some grays on my left hairline that I'd like to cover.

Hi Nikole, I tried the Kalpi Tone tonight for the first time tonight. I think that I did a pretty good job but I have a couple questions about it for you.1. There was still residue of the treatment left after I rinsed with condish as advised then shampooed and then conditioned again. Did I maybe not use enough condish the first time? Do you have to use tons to get all residue out?

2. Also, it has a very distinct smell, any thoughts for cutting down on the smell?

Hello- you are trully amazing and i am really thankful i found your site.

Question for you: I found a lot of the hesh powders at my Indian store and it was really cheap- $1.29 for all powders except for Bhrinraj,Brahmi and kalpi tone I have to order those online. 300ml Vatika oil for $2.50 I was really happy about that. I think I might have to buy the whole store out of 20bottels-LOL I love a bargain. Then my husband told me there was a recall on all hesh powders, do you know anything about this? Please help I don’t think my store will take the stuff back and I was thinking of buying it all from him. Where do I get the stuff from if there is a recall? And do you still use hesh powders.i am new to it all, thanks to you:-)For the last time, is it safe to by Jamila Henna from the store? And what should it say on the box? Again I have been on a bargain spree and have found Jamila at a different store- $1.99 bought all three boxes and a box of Dulhan Jamila says: Superior Quality HaircolorDulhan says: Henna Mehndi 100% Herbal Productare these two product good for relaxed hair or should i just order them from online? should it say BAQ on the box?thanks again and i am hooked. keeping on writing b/c i am reading and learning about my hair:-)

I'm in,,,,,,,, I need to start back using Henna/indigo and my husband has stolen my Vatika oil, but I will get it back. My hair has taken a step back with the cold weather, it is dry and tangled. I don't want to lose all the length I obtained last year. Thanks for doing this Nic.

I posted on 12-31 that I was gonna participate in the challenge, but I never saw it show up in the comments. So, I am in and I will be doing an ayurvedic reg. my hair is currently at the top of my bra. since I have been using henna (about 8 mo.) I have seen significant growth (about 1/2 inch per mo.) I expect nothing less than 3 in. by June 2011.

I'm doing the challenge and bought some Kalpi Tone and ordered the shampoo bar from the website you gave in the "Ayurvedic Part1" post. Well my experience was not favorable AT ALL. I can get over the dry hair but the irritated icthy scalp I can't do! I tied it twice and I got the same results so I've decided this regime is not for me unfortunately. I will just use all natural products during 2011, my hair and scalp seems happier that way.