On a warm, sunny day, there is no better place for a business lunch than the riverside terrace of this steakhouse. Views are postcard Chicago: an A to Z of architecture, the lake, the river, and the el crossing over the Wells Street bridge. The day we stopped by, sailboats were moving to the lake, so we caught that slow parade, as sailors waited for one bridge, then another, to lift.

The food grabbed our attention, too. A must is the corn chowder ($5.50). It's thick but not gluey, with bits of corn and red pepper. Tuna tataki ($15) is another terrific start. Our waitress sold us on the tomato salad ($10.50), but its mozzarella was rubbery and the tomatoes unripe.

Entrees were top-notch. Dover sole ($42) is filleted at the table, and moist: a perfect summer lunch, sided with sautéed spinach ($7.50). The Oscar filet ($34.50) dazzles: It's the size of a small football on a bed of roast asparagus, sprinkled with crabmeat.

Service isn't as fine as the food, but we didn't mind dawdling on such a spectacular stage. Later, we noticed a table of businessmen seated beside us, who had come only for coffee and dessert. Now we know why: Key lime pie ($8.50) is creamy, tart and set on crumbly graham-cracker crust. We fought over the warm apple Betty ($8.50) and its melting ice cream.

Riva

700 E. Grand Ave.(312) 644-7482

This restaurant at its base looks as casual as the others that line Navy Pier. But head upstairs and you'll find a light-filled, white-tablecloth dining room, with a formal menu and gracious waiters. We felt like we'd landed at a ritzy place on Cape Cod. Tables are well-spaced and views are lovely: lake, pier, boats, skyline.

SKIP THE WALK

Dining on the water is grand, but getting to some spots smoothly requires hometown know-how. Riva

, for example, is at the far end of Navy Pier. That means great views  but a long walk. Ask your cab driver to bypass Navy Pier's main entrance and turn right onto the north dock, dropping you at the farthest entrance. Signs for Riva and nearby attractions are posted. Otherwise, plan on a 15-minute walk from the main entrance; stick to the outdoor pedestrian-only south dock. Inside can be cramped, crowded and loud.

The raw bar at the entry smelled so good, we had to order oysters ($2.50 each): fresh, plump, delicious. With the bread, ask for oil and you'll also get a bowl heaped with grated Parmesan cheese.

A thick crab cake ($11.95) on a bed of shredded red cabbage is an appetizer but right-sized for lunch. The Riva salad bowl ($6.95) is a satisfying mix of lettuces, spinach, tomato wedges, cucumbers and carrots, nicely dressed with balsamic vinegar. Crab Louis salad ($13.95) is oversized, and an unusual combination of romaine, egg, capers and crab; my friend left none on her plate. The sole misstep: Key lime pie ($8.95). Its crust is like soggy cardboard, its filling nothing special.

Oak Street Beachstro

Oak Street Beach(312) 915-4100

We'd walked and cycled by this charming beach shack, open through September, for years, but never stopped in. We'll be sure to come back. Fare is simple but sophisticated, fresh and pleasing. And then there's the view: The day we visited the water was very still, the sand white and unpeopled.

Steel-drum music played over the sound system, and men strolled by carrying tall, lime-topped beers. Were we in the Caribbean? Not with the John Hancock Center behind us. Still, it was a rare treat to be steps from the hubbub of Michigan Avenue  accessible by tunnel at Oak Street, near the Drake Hotel  enjoying a midday meal.

Tables (plastic) are roomy, but forget business: Even with a gentle wind, papers go flying. Don't miss the salad niçoise ($17.95). Its potato wedges, string beans and greens are dressed with a grainy mustard vinaigrette, and its seared tuna sizable. Another hit: a grilled chicken sandwich ($10.95), served on a croissant. Cobb salad ($14.95) needs a less sweet dressing and a bowl for mixing.

Lingering is a must, even with clouds moving in. Cheesecake ($6.95) varies by day; mango is pleasing, even to purists.