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Topic: Katahdin - Chimney Gully (Read 1622 times)

I'll be heading with some friends at mount Katahdin in 2 weeks. Most of them are hikers and are gonna climb via Cathedral trail. I wanted to climb something a bit harder but without having to carry the whole ice rack and 70m rope. I was thinking of going up via Chimney gully. It looks relatively easy. I was planning on bringing both my tools, 2-3 screws and 30m of rope and 2 snow pickets. Does that seem realistic ? It seems to be a long snow climb with maybe a few ice patches. Anyone did it before ? So far this season, I led Landslide and Odell's and climbed some 4/4+ top roping.

DLottmann

Years ago when I climbed it we soloed to the little cave thing, and belayed the moves out the cave... they felt like 5.4ish rock moves to me at the time... rest was snow slog...

Last time I was up there we went to look at it and it had just avalanched huge... it had snowed heavy the whole ski in the day before... it probably goes without saying but pay attention to what's going on weather wise a few days BEFORE your trip so you get a sense of what might be happening... depending on who the ranger is they may not be able to provide much info regarding stability...

Thanks ! I'll definitely check the avalanche condition carefully before getting in. As for gear, I was planning on bringing 3-4 screws, 60m of rope, 3 tools, few slings, 2 snow pickets and somes nuts. If it's a snow slog, it should be enough. What do you think ? I just want to pack light since the approach is quite something !

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DLottmann

Thanks ! I'll definitely check the avalanche condition carefully before getting in. As for gear, I was planning on bringing 3-4 screws, 60m of rope, 3 tools, few slings, 2 snow pickets and somes nuts. If it's a snow slog, it should be enough. What do you think ? I just want to pack light since the approach is quite something !

30m of rope and 2 tools would be my adjustment... but YMMV... if you bring a 60m bring the skinny one...

I haven't done the Chimney but I've done false chimney, which is the next gully to the right. The biggest surprise for me was how far it was to the knife edge. It's no o'dell's or landslide, probably feels as long as the two put together. Best thing to do is to be able to move steadily--doesn't have to be a speed climb, just don't mess around with building perfect, equalized anchors and changing clothing ten times. As long as you have your systems dialed and your partner is on the same page, you'll be fine.