Speakers in Parallel Calculator

Simple Calculation for Speakers in Parallel

If all the speakers in parallel have the same impedance, then the calculation is easy. Simply divide the impedance by the number of speakers in parallel.

Example 1: Four 8 ohm speakers in parallel: 8 divided by 4 = 2 ohms.

Example 2: Two 4 ohms speakers in parallel: 4 divided by 2 = 2 ohms.

Not so Simple Calculations for Speakers in Parallel

For calculations involving speakers in parallel with different impedance, the following formula is required (it can be used with speakers of similar impedances too).

If you have a calculator with 1/x button then this calculation is not too difficult. If you don’t have that function on your calculator, or if you don’t like formulas, check out the calculators below.

Simple Calculator for Speakers in Parallel

Below is a separate calculator for 2, 3 and 4 speakers wired in parallel. Following these simple calculators is another calculator which can be used for more complex series/parallel configurations.

Simply type the impedance of each speaker into the white boxes of the appropriate calculator. The total impedance for those speakers connected in parallel will be calculated.

Also for each speaker is a calculated percentage. The shows how the power output of the amplifier is shared between the speakers. Power sharing is a consideration when using speakers with different impedance. See How Multiple Speakers Share Power for further details.

Note: all these calculations are for connecting manufactured speakers (boxes). They are not used when building your own speaker boxes and connecting multiple speakers in a cabinet using a crossover circuit. A crossover splits the signal into different frequencies for each of the speakers and makes the total impedance calculation complex (as impedance is frequency dependent). That is why speaker designers get the big money, and as installers we benefit from their expertise.

Calculator for Series/Parallel Speakers

This calculator can be used for a series/parallel configuration or for two speakers in parallel. It goes a step further than the calculators above and allows you to enter the maximum power output of your amplifier for the calculated total load impedance. The maximum power through each speaker is then calculated. Also the difference in power between the highest power and the lowest power in the speakers is given as a ratio and in decibels.

If you need further advice on connecting speakers in parallel, please read the FAQs before submitting your question. You also find an answer in the comments below.

I suggest you only use the 6 ohm 40 watt speakers. Connect these to any stereo amp, anything from the 10 watt to 60 watts will work. But don’t turn it up so load that it distorts as distortion is a sing of overloading.

I have 3 Ahuja 65 watt 8 ohms speakers and I have a amplifier output 200 watt 4ohms and 8ohms selection. How can I connect 3 drive units (speakers) to this amplifier. How can I match the impedance so that I can connect in 4 ohms or 8 ohms.

I’ve recently bought a pair of JVC Model Sp-HXZ1 speakers. The speakers contain a sub-woofer rated at 150W at 6 ohms and has the main speaker rated at 50 W 6 ohms. My receiver is a Sony STR-DH750 which is rated at 6 ohms.

Wiring up the one jvc speaker with both of its internal speakers in parallel will put it at 3 ohms, which my receiver obviously cannot handle . Likewise, putting in series will raise it up to 12 ohms, which is not ideal.

My question is, If I wire the speakers in parallel, can I add a 3 ohm resistor to the positive wire to bring it up to 6 ohms?

Hi Christian, The speakers you have were designed to go with a matched amplifier which had separate amps for the sub and the main speakers. Which meant the amp also separated the sub frequencies from the other frequencies. Without this separation, both speakers will get the same program. Running both together with same program will cause them to sound different to how they were designed.

Having said that, there is no technical reason why you can’t join them together, as long as you watch the impedance which you are doing. I would caution running them in parallel for the reason you state. Running them in series would be far better from an impedance point of view. The amp will prefer 12 ohms rather than 3 ohms. Although 12 ohms will limit the maximum power output of the amp, this probably won’t matter for domestic listening levels.

There is also no technical reason why you can’t put a 3 ohm series resistance on each channel. This is exactly what the cheaper speaker selector switches do. However you will need to find two resistor that are capable of handling 50 watts or more each – these are’t too common. Also keep in mind that 50% of the power will be lost in the resistor, which is about the same reduction in power as from the amp into 12 ohms – but without the hassle and heat.

I’ve got a question about a setup we are doing… we have a 1,000 sqft banquet hall, we’d like to put 8 speakers in the ceiling, 4 in each side (4 left, 4 right). What do you recommend as far a wiring and an amplifier. Mostly used for a microphone setup and music.

Normally for a function room I wouldn’t worry about stereo – on the basis no-one is standing equi-distant between the left and right speakers to appreciate the stereo. You are better off having all the program coming from all the speakers – on the basis everyone is standing or sitting near a speaker, provided your speaker spacing is correct.

Therefore I would use a distributed speaker system. If you want a quality result, I would suggest the JBL Control 26 CT‘s. These are a professional ceiling speaker ideal for your situation. Make sure you get the model with “T” as this includes the transformer. If they are beyond the budget, then any reasonable ceiling speaker with a transformer will work, especially for voice and background music.

For an amp, I use the Toa or the Bosch. Both brands are available in 120 and 240 watt versions, depending on whether you set the speakers on 15 watts or 30 watts each.

If you to use domestic gear, you could wire four 8 ohm speakers in series/parallel for each side of the amp (L and R), but then you would still need a mixer or something to cope with the mic inputs.

I have a quick question about a 6 speaker setup I’m contemplating. It goes as follows:

I have two identical guitar cabinets, 3 speakers a piece. Each cabinet runs 2 x 16ohm and 1 x 8 ohm speaker wired in parallel, coming out to a 4 ohm load. Cool.

My thought is to wire the two outputs from each cabinet (4 ohms each) in series, combining the cabinets to make an 8 ohm load. My plan was to take positive from cabinet one and negative from cabinet two for the main output, and then cross the remaining pos/neg lines. Does this make sense? And would it work as I imagine?

Your idea is fine. That is certainly one way to connect two speakers in series. Other ways can be found in my article on connecting 2 speakers.

There are two slight issues which may or may not concern you. Connecting speakers in series will affect the damping factor, which affects how tight the bass sounds. This is not a concern for domestic installs but it could be for you especially if using a bass guitar.

The other issue is that you will get less level from each cabinet than you do with only one connected. Firstly, by having a greater load impedance, the amp will produce less power. Then that power will get divided equally between the two cabinets. The only real reason for having two cabinets (apart from trying to look impressive) is to have a wider coverage area.

However there is nothing wrong with connecting them as you suggest. Give it a go and let us know what you think of the resulting sound.

In my opinion, if the overall volume is thunderous, then you are not under-powering the speakers. Sure, you are not driving them to their full potential, but they are obviously being powered sufficiently for your use.

How the power is divided between the speakers is not too difficult to work out. Each cabinet is 8 ohms, so the each cabinet gets 50% of the amplifier power. Then each cabinet splits the power between each of its speakers evenly. So the in the 410, each speaker would 12.5% of the amplifier power. In your home made cabinet, each speaker would get 25% of the amplifier power.

So if you run the amp at full output, the 410 would receive 150 watts, and each speaker inside would get 37 watts. You other cabinet would also get 150 watts, so each speaker would get 75 watts.

Hiya Geoff, thanks so much for writing this article and helping all of us out.

I have six eight ohm speakers and a Pyle Pro PCA3 stereo amp, with each amp rated at 75W at 4 Ohms. I’m planning on connecting three Boston CR55 speakers to each side. If I’ve synthesized this article correctly, in parallel I’d get an impedance of 2.66 ohms, and in series an impedance of 24 ohms.

I’m assuming it’s a better idea to wire in series in this case, but I wanted to double-check. If my understanding is correct, having them wired in parallel would increase the required power draw beyond the amp’s 75W rating.

Incidentally, I have a conceptual question as well. I only really need to be filling one room with sound, so does it even make any sense to have six speakers instead of say, four or two? To my understanding, having a lower number of speakers would lower the impedance and increase the wattage directed to each, which results in a louder sound. If the room isn’t too large, then having a lesser number of louder speakers should be fine, right?

Your calculations and assumption are correct. Three speakers wired in parallel would overload the amp when it is at full power. I also suggest it will be at full power most of the time – due to a market ploy. The 75 watts it is markets at is a absolute peak power per channel – probably only for a few seconds. When looking at the manual for the amp, it say the output with 10% distortion is 23 watts per channel. With 1% distortion it outputs 15 watts. I just picked searched for a Yamaha stereo amp and their specs say 80 watts RMS with 0.04% distortion (admittedly it costs 10 times the Polk – but there us a reason for that).

However that is to say the 15 watts per channel is not enough for you. If it is only a small room the it probably is sufficient, depending on the type of music and how loud you like.

What ever the amp, and whether you connect the speakers in series or parallel, the power is from the map is going to be shared by each speaker. So 15 watts across three speakers will be a max of 5 watts per speaker. The difference between being in series or parallel, is that in parallel the amp can produce more power (because of the lower total impedance) than in series, as long as the impedance is within the tolerance of the amp.

Which brings us to your conceptual question. You are correct that in a small room there is not going to be much advantage in having multiple speakers. As I just said, adding speakers does not add power (if actually divides the power). The only reason to use more speakers is to increase the coverage area (like in a wide room or to another room), not the power.

Geoff, Have a interesting configuration I am attempting to implement. I will be using a Sonos CONNECT:AMP that has 55W at 8 Ohms. I will be using it to be powering 2 zones, each with a Russound ALT-126R. I will be connecting the Amp to a Russound EZB-8, which I believe wires in parallel, then out to the VCs. One zone will be connected to a single pair of stereo speakers (8 Ohms). The second zone will be connected to 2 single point stereo speakers (8 Ohms), so the equivalent of two pairs of speakers. I am trying to figure the best way to wire it and then to configure the impedance matching on the volume control. It is going into new construction so running wire is not an issue. I plan to run 16/4 from the EZB-8 to each VC and 16/2 to each speaker from the VC in zone 1 and 16/4 to each speaker from the VC in zone 2 plus a 16/4 between the 2 single point stereo speakers.

Hi Geoff my question is I have 6 speakers 4 are 2 ohm per coil dual voice coil speakers and the other 2 are single voice coil 8 ohm is there a way to wire for a 1 or 2 ohm load or a 4 ohm load maybe I can’t find any calculators for different voice coils and impedance. Any help will be greatly appreciated. P.s. I’ll be hooking up to my 250w or 500w per channel 2 channel 1 ohm stable car amplifier in my car. Thank you so much.

Hi Jimmy, As I understand it, you will have 3 speakers for each amp (left and right). So for one amp there will be a 8 ohm speaker and two other speakers, each with two 2 ohm coils.

The problem with not having the same impedance for each speaker is the power sharing. Each speaker will not get the same power, more about this shortly.

If your connect the dual coils in series, that will give you 4 ohms for each of those speakers. Now you could simply run the two 4 ohm and one 8 ohm speaker all in parallel. This would be the easiest to wire, and the total load impedance to your amp would 1.6 ohms which you say it can cope with.

Doing it this way, the two 4 ohm speakers get 40% of the power each, and the 8 ohm speaker gets 20%. This may or may not be an issue depending on where the speakers are in the car relative to where you sit (for instance it could be advantageous for the rear speakers to be louder as they are further away from you). Also it is will depend on the sensitivity of the speakers as to whether there will be a noticeable difference in level between them.

An alternate arrangement would be to wire the two 4 ohms speakers in series, and then these in parallel with the 8 ohm speaker. This gives a total load impedance of 4 ohms, with the 8 ohm speaker using 50% of the power, and the 4 ohm speakers using 25% each.

Thank you Geoff that was very helpful and descriptive I appreciate that. I believe I am going with the second option so as to not put a strain too much on my amp. Your saying to have the coils for the 4 dvc 2ohm speakers wired in series then on each side of my amp have 2 of the dvc speakers and 1 of the svc 8ohm speakers wired in parallel together? I believe I read that properly.

I have been googling for an answer and stumbled on your website. I have a McIntosh MC2205 200w amplifier with autoformers. I am using a Russound SDB-4.1 speaker selector, also with autoformers, connected to three pairs of 8ohm speakers.

I don’t necessarily use all three pairs at one time but often do. Which tap in the amplifier should I connect the selector to? 2, 4 or 8?

I’m more technical rather than being an audiophile, so others may have a different opinion to me based on different criteria.

So, technically speaking, I would probably set the multiplier links to x2 (the default). With all three sets of 8 ohm speakers connected in parallel the total speaker impedance would be 2.6 ohms. Then multiply this by 2, and the minimum load impedance the amp will see would be 5.43 ohms (when the switch volume controls at are full volume). So connecting to the amp at 4 ohms would probably be a good fit.

Obviously, with less speakers connected, the load impedance will increase. You can play with all this on the third speaker switch simulator. Having a different load connected to the amplifier shouldn’t cause any harm, it just doesn’t give the best possible power transfer – which you don’t need at lower levels anyhow. So my reasoning is to set the switch and the amp for best power transfer when you want the most power (that is, with all speakers connected and all volume controls up full).

Geoff- Thanks so much. I missed that simulator when I was searching earlier. My speaker selector (sdb4.1) manual says the default multiplier is x4 so I think if I am using your simulator correctly I am safe using the 8 ohm tap. That is what I have been using these last two weeks.

Let me start by saying I’m not a car audio person, so I don’t claim any expertise at all in this area. However the basic physics still hold.

The amp looks a solid unit and will work into any load above 1 ohm. Obviously it produces more power at 1 ohm (1100 watts), but it will work fine at 2 ohms (700 watts) on the sub output.

The Phoenix Gold subs look, their documentation is quite limited. Normally a dual coil sub will allow you to wire the two coils in series, giving you a 4 ohm sub. You could then wire the two subs in parallel and get a totals load of 2 ohms.

To my mind this will work technically, but car audio people seems to have to get the most out of everything – but, as I said, I’m not a car audio person. Mind you, the difference in level between 700 watts and 1100 watts is less than 2dB – not much in reality.

Hello Geoff, Working on Sundays? Here is what I have run across. I have 6 speakers all connected with a single lead (+ / -) running back to the head end. All the connections are behind the drywall some where cant see them at all. in testing i attached my tone generator to one of the 6 speakers and got the generated tone at each speaker through the toner. I have a 50 watt 8 ohm amplifier. do you know what needs to happen to get the proper impedance at the amplifier.

With 6 leads, I’m assuming you have 6 speakers, that is 3 pairs, each pair in different rooms. Therefore you will need a 4 zone speaker selector switch with impedance protection. See my article on connecting 4 speakers for more info.

I have eight 8ohm speakers(250) I want to connect to an amp. The amp is rated 800@ 2ohms, 550@ 4ohms, and 325@ 2ohms. If not possible, what would be the correct speakers/watts to get for this amp. Also do each speaker get the same amount of watts or does the amp distribute the watts evenly the more speakers you connect. Your help would be great.

Hi Geoff. Great site you have. So my question is I have an amp that puts out 1500 watts Rms@ 1ohm. If I’m running it at 1.33 ohms how much rms power would you figure it puts out? Then same question for 1700 watts rms@1ohm running at 1.33 ohms. What would its rms power output?

I have a Technics SU-V300 amplifier. It has A and B speaker selection. This I think has 27w per channel but I’m unsure if that’s per speaker channel when running in A and B mode or just with only A or B. Running A or B only it can do 4-16 ohm loading. Running A and B it can do 8-16 ohm loading.

My speakers I have are 2 centre channel speakers. Focal CC700S and Focal CC700V. They are both 8ohm.

My plan is to run the tweeters off 2 channels but this would be with the one from A and one from B both being a right signal.

Then to run 2 woofers from each channel again one from A and one from B both being a left signal.

Now these are not being ran as a centre speaker in home theatre at all. I’m splitting the signal up so strangely because I’m planning to remove the passive crossovers from the circuit and to make them active, I don’t have the correct active equipment as such but I do have a way I think may well work and before I buy some small chip amps I just need to test the validity of my theory. If it doesn’t work then I have a different idea to go down that will work but that means buying different amps hence this is just a trial.

My issue is I can work out the ohm loading for the speakers in many different configurations I could do but due to trialling with this amp which I think is already parallel internally I’m unsure how or if that affects what the amp sees.

So basically my left signal is doing the woofers. Right signal is doing the tweeters. Channel A would have 1 tweeter 8ohm on one output and two 8ohm woofers on the other output.

Duplicated for channel B.

What will the amp see per channel A/B and what is the best way to wire the 2 woofers per this amp. Also any idea on the wattages they would see.

I understand I can use just one speaker per channel on speaker set A bit this as I said is an experiment into what is possible for my plans which is more about testing the set up from source to line in on the amp but I would run it as that until I buy the amps.

First up, you are correct in that the A and B outputs are the same. They are in parallel and simply provide a convenient way to connect and switch two sets of speakers. So for calculation purposes they are in parallel.

So, lets say you use the left channel for the tweeters. You would effectively have two 8 ohm speakers in parallel, giving a total load impedance of 4 ohms, which should be fine for the amp. Each tweeter will share the power from the amp 50/50.

Now the right channel will have four 8 ohms speakers. Wiring them in parallel will give a total load impedance of 2 ohms, which the amp will not like at all. However if you wire the pair in each box in series (8+8=16 ohms), then the two boxes wired in parallel (one on A and one on B) will give a total load impedance of 8 ohms. Each speaker will get 25% of the power from the right channel.

I’m not completely sure why you would want to do this, but it will work technically. However I think you will find the tweeters are much louder than the woofers. You can adjust this with the balance control, or your external processor when you go that way.

Yes it was the already parallel amp that made me think I had my calculation wrong which you confirmed and it would be as you say.

I have various equipment doing nothing so I’m experimenting to learn about about ohms effects on wiring and active type designs and how much power I need to run the speakers. After I posted my question I had an even crazier idea.

The full set up is like this and it’s a bit complicated haha iPhone as source outputting mono. Into pioneer DJM250 DJ mixer with left input on channel 1 and right input into channel 2, this gives me gain input on the split mono signal, 3 band EQ with infinite to +9db and HPF/LPF on each channel, channel 1 becomes LP, channel 2 becomes high pass, Independant volume control and master volume out. Then possibly go into a Marantz 7 band EQ. Then into a Promitheus TVC passive pre which gives me my 2 mono signal inputs into 4 mono outputs with attenuation volume control. Then from there the 2 left LP mono signals wired to L/R input of a Marantz NR1501 A/V receiver and use 4 channels of 50w @8ohm x4 per driver as I have 4 woofers to drive. Set it into multichannel stereo, have volume control and bass treble if needed. Then the 2 Right mono HP signal to the Technics L/R input with 27w @8ohm driving the tweeters with with volume control and tone if needed.

Hi Geoff, I am trying to wire 6- 8ohm speakers as efficiently as possible. They are all in my garage, and I have a Crown CDi 1000 amp (its 2 channel, 275W @ 8 ohms per channel). Speakers are handling 80 watts RMS. I used the series/parallel calculator and it gave me 45.8 watts power for each speaker. But it says if I wire them all in series/parallel the total load impedance for the amp is 12 ohms. Also total impedance for first 3 and last 3 speakers is 24 ohms. What does this mean? The amp can handle 2, 4, and 8 ohms, but I don’t think 12. Is wiring like this not a possibility in my situation?

Your amp will run fine with a total load of 12 ohms, it just wont work as hard or be quite as loud as running into 4 or 8 ohms.

However if you have six 8 ohm speakers, won’t you have just 3 speakers on each channel? If this is the case, then you could run each set of three in parallel. This will give each of the dual amps a load of 2.7 ohms. Since you amp will work into a load of 2 ohms or more, then this should be fine.

Running a speaker of any impedance in parallel with a 6 ohms speaker will result in a total impedance less than 6 ohms, so best not to run any other speakers in parallel. Wiring them in series will be safe for the amp.

I am attempting to build a set of custom speakers, and was hoping to achieve a 4 way design using an 8 ohm bass driver wired in parallel to a series of 3 smaller speakers starting with an 8 ohm mid bass, 4 ohm full range, and 4 ohm tweeter. According to your calculator, this would give me a total of 5.7 ohms… I have the bass driver hooked up to a 500hz low pass filter (the speaker jack type), and the other 3 speakers run off of the full range signal. My questions.. is how can I hook up a crossover network to the 3 speakers in series? I have a capacitor for the tweeter that I calculated for about 5000hz, just to protect the tweeter… but the other 2 speakers are not splitting the frequencies well and it sounds quite muddy… Im a super noob to this.. so bare with me… lol

You are discovering why speaker manufacturers charge so much for the designs. It is not easy. I’m an installed, not a speaker designer, so I can’t help too much I’m sorry.

From the little bit that I know, I’s suggest your current crossover frequencies are not right for the speakers. Every speaker has its optimum frequency range and would need to get those frequencies.

I also suggest that by wiring the three in series as you have, that none of them are getting enough power to let you hear the mids and highs. You 4 ohm speakers are only getting less than 25% of the power from the amp.

I’m sorry I can’t help much more, but at least you understand why the only speakers I’ve built were based on proven designs, because I can’t design them myself.

Thanks for the reply Geoff, I understand the power difference between the speakers, and actually used 4 ohm speakers to split the power like that on purpose.. as the 8 ohm speakers are much bigger and can handle considerably more power than the smaller full range and tweeter.. So by using the 4 ohm smaller speakers.. it sends more power to the bigger speakers that can handle it.. based on the wattage rating, it’s actually pretty close to optimal for each speaker. (based on your calculator above)

My question is more regarding the wiring procedure to hook up a crossover in a series. Most of the pre-wired ones appear to be designed for parallel operation.. but I am really just trying to see if wiring a cap between each of the higher speakers.. say if I sent the full range signal to the 5-1/2 mid bass.. the a cap between the mid bass and the 2-1/2 full range at around 5000hz, and then the next at around 10-12000hz for the tweeter. I am no audiophile.. so “optimizing” each speaker really isn’t of much concern… but I would like to try to at least split the frequencies a little better if possible.. I just don’t know if wiring the cap between the speakers in series like this will achieve the desired effect.. Or if there is a way I can wire a pre-designed 3way crossover to work in a series arrangement? Thanks for your reply.. it is much appreciated!

Hi Geoff! I have a 2-channel HiFi amp with 190watts that can handle 6-16ohms output impedance. I have 2 speakers with 6-ohms impedance. Now, I want to add the additional 2 speakers (no specifications stated) that my uncle lend me, is it safe if I just wire them in series?

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Geoff, Thank you for your answer. I made a donation to help keep things going via PayPal. I hope others will be encouraged to do the same.

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2015-04-26T09:46:23+00:00

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Kostas,

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I want to thank you for your help. You and your articles helped me to understand so much about audio. The fact that you know so much stuff is so cool but the thing you are sharing with the others for free makes you awesome. You are the best.

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Marc

Hi Geoff!! WOW, what a wealth of knowledge you are! Thank you for sharing your expertise! and THANK YOU for making this project a huge success!! I couldn't be more pleased with the sound and I am REALLY happy knowing that it is wired safely!!

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Marc, USA

Hi Geoff!! WOW, what a wealth of knowledge you are! Thank you for sharing your expertise! and THANK YOU for making this project a huge success!! I couldn't be more pleased with the sound and I am REALLY happy knowing that it is wired safely!!

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Dan M

I did it! with your help of course. Thank you so very much. It is working like a charm. Without you I would have never figured it out. So thank you so very much again for your patience, knowledge, support and outstanding kindness.

Bless your heart.

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Dan M,

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I did it! with your help of course. Thank you so very much. It is working like a charm. Without you I would have never figured it out. So thank you so very much again for your patience, knowledge, support and outstanding kindness. Bless your heart.

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Matt Bunnell (Indianapolis)

Thank You Geoff! This article demystified microphone sensitivity for me in a big way and helped me understand the concept much better.

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2014-12-02T13:11:40+00:00

Matt B,

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Thank You Geoff! This article demystified microphone sensitivity for me in a big way and helped me understand the concept much better.

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Jean S auckland

Hey Geoff, just wanted to let you know how helpful you've been. I recently bought some speakers and was having trouble understanding the correct way to wire them. I came to your website and was blown away by how helpful you were. Keep up the good work!

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Auckland, NZ

Hey Geoff, just wanted to let you know how helpful you've been. I recently bought some speakers and was having trouble understanding the correct way to wire them. I came to your website and was blown away by how helpful you were. Keep up the good work!

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Arnita

Thank you very much for your help. I wonder why the manufacturers don't tell you this in the manual. My mom said to thank you also, she said now she won't have to pull out her hair. Keep up the good work, this is a great site.

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Thank you very much for your help. I wonder why the manufacturers don't tell you this in the manual. My mom said to thank you also, she said now she won't have to pull out her hair. Keep up the good work, this is a great site.

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Thank you, Geoff for this helpful, clear, specific information. There were plenty of old videos my parents and I wanted to replay, and we just couldn't get the VCR going with our flat screen. Loved the example images as well. Thank you!

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Gabriela,

El Paso

Thank you, Geoff for this helpful, clear, specific information. There were plenty of old videos my parents and I wanted to replay, and we just couldn't get the VCR going with our flat screen. Loved the example images as well. Thank you!

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Lynn

Thank you, thank you, thank you! As you know, not being technically savvy I had no idea what to do or use. to hook up my TV, DVR, and VCR. With your kind patience and explanations via emails back and forth I was able to successfully get everything working. Thank you SO much,

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Lynn,

Tinley Park, Il, USA

Thank you, thank you, thank you! As you know, not being technically savvy I had no idea what to do or use. to hook up my TV, DVR, and VCR. With your kind patience and explanations via emails back and forth I was able to successfully get everything working. Thank you SO much,

https://geoffthegreygeek.com/testimonials/lynn/

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