My Home Ideas

Special Offers

Be the first to know about This Old House contests, sweepstakes, and events and receive special offers and promotions from your favorite home improvement brands. We'll even send you regular reminders to enter our sweepstakes.

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Turn off the hot- and cold-water shutoff valves under the sink. Remove the faucet and supply lines. Unscrew the metal rim around the drain (the drain collar) from the pipe underneath (the drain rim). Clean all the holes with rubbing alcohol.

To begin installing the new faucet, center the spout in the sink's middle hole. From below, slide the flat washer over the threads, then screw on the mounting nut.

Contribute to This Story Below

More in Bathroom

Tools List

Adjustable wrench

Basin wrench, to reach parts under the sink

Allen wrenches, tp tighten set screws

Tube bender, for putting curves in rigid supply lines

Pipe cutter

Tongue-and-groove pliers, to turn large nuts and to hold parts steady when tightening fittings

Shopping List

Close

1. FAUCET

Most come with spout, valves, braided line to connect the valves, handles, drain collar, and pop-up waste assembly, though some valves and handles are sold separately. Look for parts made from solid brass (under the finish) or stainless steel for the best quality.

2. 3/8-inch supply lines

to connect the sink's valves to the water supply, either rigid or braided. Rigid supply lines (aka risers) should be used in an exposed installation, but they might need to be bent to fit, which takes some finesse. Buy three (just in case) in a chrome finish for the best appearance and in lengths longer than you need. Make sure you get the ones with an "acorn head" which becomes part of the connection to the faucet valves. You will also need to buy compression fittings. [BR] Braided-steel lines are flexible and therefor easy to install but aren't as pretty. They come in various lengths, with fittings on the ends. Make sure to buy them only slightly longer than you need, with a 3/8-inch compression fitting on one end and a 1/2-inch fitting on the other.

3. 3/8x1/2-inch compression unions

(if needed) to connect rigid supply lines.Get two; each should include two complete compression fittings, one 3/8-inch and one 1/2-inch, which you can cannibalize for your connections. Otherwise, get two 3/8-inch fittings and two 1/2-inch fittings separately.

4. Clear silicone sealant

Instead of plumber's putty, to seal gaps around the valves, spout, and drain collar. Some manufacturers warn that using plumber's putty will void their finish warranties because the oil-based product can cause damage.