Dry and delicately yeasty, Goutorbe "Cuvée Prestige" comes alive in the mouth and finishes long and lovely. This respected producer's Champagne has masses of tiny bubbles and beautiful balance. Importer Thierry Thiese knows how to pick 'em. Under $50.

This is a unique Champagne made entirely with Pinot Meunier by a small grower in the village of Chavot. The first impression of this pale pink Champagne is raspberries and wild herbs. Second impression: dry and crisp with a lingering finish. Exquisite, and a wonderful bargain at around $38.

You could say Paul Bara has experience: six generations of it since 1833. A rosy salmon in color, this Grand Cru rosé is dry and subtle with miniscule bubbles and a hint of pink grapefruit. The finish tastes of wild strawberries. It would be great with charcuterie and salumi and probably goose. From $42 to $50.

The bubbles just keep coming in Philipponnat's "Royale Réserve." Note the words "non dosé," or no dosage. This refers tothe syrup of Champagne, sugar and sometimes spirits that usually is added after the first fermentation. That's why this version is so dry and crisp. Yet it's also supple and lush, a truly elegant sip. Great with food, this Champagne bears noticing. About $60.