seems to me that less of it is leaving us now."
"And I guess some leave and come back?" I
suggested, knowing that Knight had.
"I'll tell you why. You can be on the best trout
stream in the country within an hour. I know a
hairdresser who leaves his salon an hour early, at
four o'clock, and by eight o'clock he's back home
with a deer. The boys who leave here want to
come back to this; so we're going to make it pos
sible for them to get jobs."
Here again was the same recurrent theme, this
awareness of past and future, the lure of the wilds
and the pull of progress.
Cobblestones Vanish in St. John's
But before I could ponder it deeply, I had one
more province to visit, the Island of Newfound
land - so salty that stenographers call their boss
"skipper" and businessmen bellow sea chanties
under the shower.
The capital, St. John's, has been sacked by pi
rates and burned many times, by the Dutch, by
the French, and by accident. It's an outpost so
easterly that ships from New York bound for
Liverpool are one-third of the way across when
they pass it.
I arrived with romantic wartime memories of
a city foreign in appearance and history. From
the Newfoundland Hotel I strolled past the col
umned Colonial Building. From here the British
governed Newfoundland until 1949 when the col
ony joined Canada, the result of a referendum
that narrowly carried under the coaxing and
haranguing of the present Premier, Joey Small
wood.* The building's imported Irish stone was
*See "Newfoundland, Canada's New Province," by Andrew
H. Brown, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, June, 1949.
808
Perce Rock, a massive mono
lith on the Gasp6 Peninsula,
bulks above the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, where the village
of Perce borders a half-sau
cer cove. Bonaventure Island,
a refuge for sea birds, looms
across the sound.
Freshly baked bread draws
youngsters to an outdoor oven
in Grande Vallee, Gaspe.
Cheerful trencherman Lo
renzo Boulianne assembles
seven of his ten children for
dinner in Arvida,Quebec.Mrs.
Boulianne serves; she eats on
ly when the others finish.
EKTACHROMEBY GEORGEHUNTER ( N.G .S .