blackwell wrote:that's the same brand that's in my truck, just not the oil wetted. i think it's just basic

Opinions differ but I recommend against the oiled ones. The idea is that they can use a less-effective filter that flows better and let the oil make up the difference. The reality is that more and larger particles get past the filter and sometimes the oil fouls the expensive and delicate mass air flow sensor, and unless there have been major modifications elsewhere there's nothing to gain. The only actual advantage they offer is that they could potentially be cheaper in the long run, since you clean and reuse them (assuming you've included the cleaning/oiling kit in the math).

could i just check it visually?

I think so. The industry (which wants to sell us more filters) tells us that it must be replaced on a schedule because you can't tell by looking if it's clogged or not. Supposedly a clogged filter doesn't look any different. I am skeptical.

The good news is that if you don't replace it, the consequences are almost non-existent. It doesn't let more dust through; in fact it does a better job at filtering when it's clogged. With relatively modern fuel injection (mass air flow sensor equipped) it doesn't even affect fuel economy, not one bit, no matter how clogged it gets. If the engineers who designed your vehicle needed to compromise, a severely clogged dirty air filter might restrict flow enough to slightly reduce the maximum performance level of your engine, a level that you probably never even ask it to reach. If they didn't need to compromise as much, it won't even do that:http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_111486/article.html

blackwell wrote:that's the same brand that's in my truck, just not the oil wetted. i think it's just basic

Opinions differ but I recommend against the oiled ones. The idea is that they can use a less-effective filter that flows better and let the oil make up the difference. The reality is that more and larger particles get past the filter and sometimes the oil fouls the expensive and delicate mass air flow sensor, and unless there have been major modifications elsewhere there's nothing to gain. The only actual advantage they offer is that they could potentially be cheaper in the long run, since you clean and reuse them (assuming you've included the cleaning/oiling kit in the math).

I too recommend against the oil wetted filters that have the open mesh and are reusable like the K&N and the Fram Air Hog, but the Fram Tough Guard is different and is not reusable. From the Fram site:

Designed and constructed with advanced features to capture and hold more dirt to keep engines cleaner in extreme driving conditions. Pre-oiled media formulated for attracting and capturing smaller dirt and dust particles provides increased dirt holding capacity. Increased durability is achieved because of the heavier filter screen that extends into urethane to provide greater integrity and lessened likelihood of collapse and tearing in tough driving conditions.

Marketing like that engages my skepticism even more. It sounds like paying more for something that doesn't even promise anything more, unless you think the OEM filter doesn't provide sufficient filtration while this one does or you've collapsed a filter in your current vehicle (I've never heard of it) and this one really is stronger.

However, I did some searching and it sounds like a decent filter. For example, this thread:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1759962I'm not sure I'd pay more for it, but at least I won't worry that someone is risking their engine like I would if they used an OCOD.

I saw police car engines torn down after providing emergency response to Mt. St. Helens eruption. Space under valvecovers that wasn't cleared by the path of moving valve gear was filled with ash. Space in carb fuel bowl that wasn't taken up by float was filled with ash. Sucking air from interior was about the best they could do to extend the operational time.

now i do need to keep it unclogged because theres some rubber hose in there that is in place of the steel weaved money making expensive hose for the fuel line. i was told to just make sure the air filter isn't clogged and it'd be fine.

so fram made like a swiffer filter? guess it's the same concept "trap and lock dust" lol. you can't wash those swiffers, so may be the same with those. idk, i agree with you.

could you run water over it when it appears clean to see if it is clogged? or would that damage the filter?

blackwell wrote:now i do need to keep it unclogged because theres some rubber hose in there that is in place of the steel weaved money making expensive hose for the fuel line. i was told to just make sure the air filter isn't clogged and it'd be fine.

I am confused. A clogged air filter has no effect on fuel lines.

Also, please be sure that the repaired fuel hose is rated for modern high pressure fuel systems. Unlike a carbureted or very early fuel injected (TBI) fuel system, modern (after about 1992 or so) fuel injection systems run at 50 to 100 PSI (perhaps more). Old fashioned rubber fuel hose and classic worm drive clamps are not sufficient and will end up with leaks and fires. There are high pressure rated rubber fuel lines and clamps, but if you had braided stainless steel OEM then that's probably what should have replaced it (not that it should ever have failed to begin with!).

so fram made like a swiffer filter? guess it's the same concept "trap and lock dust" lol. you can't wash those swiffers, so may be the same with those. idk, i agree with you.

could you run water over it when it appears clean to see if it is clogged? or would that damage the filter?

A paper filter will be destroyed by water. A non-reusable oiled filter, even if not paper, will certainly be messed up by water. I would only wash a filter designed to be washed.

It would be fine to just replace it on schedule with a regular paper filter and not worry THAT much about it, despite the big tangent discussion that was launched in this thread.

To put that in contrast - the manual for the Sonic states that the engine air filter needs to be replaced every 40k miles. Yes, 40k and no, I wasn't looking at the in-cabin filter. I've got 28k on mine and haven't replaced it yet. I took it out about a month ago and it didn't look clogged. Usually I replace them when I can see a very definitive dirt pattern formed by the flow of air where it flows the strongest.

Ford wanted the [2005-2007] Focus to be classified as a partial zero emissions vehicle (PZEV) in California. Those rules required the car’s air intake system should never require maintenance. “Never requires maintenance” was equated with “make maintenance impossible.” That sounds crazy enough to possibly be true! Luckily no government organization specified that a PZEV never needs gasoline or Focus owners might have discovered their gas caps were welded shut!

Further questioning at the Ford dealer uncovered there is an indicator on the Ford Focus original air filter housing that indicates when the filter is clogged. The dealer sells a complete replacement air filter housing for $525.42.

i kinda miss the full-time bypass on my 03 accord's air filter. one of the air filters for that accord had a defect where a rectangular hold was near the gasket. i used it anyway and enjoyed the fake turbo sounds.