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OMBOX would be the car I'm looking to run since I have plenty of Gp-12 C-cans. I think I can build a motor to last 8 3 minute heats. With spray glue and no motor changes, I think this is a great Wing class.

Since you already have parts to build cars, your maintenance costs would be fairly cheap too, mostly tires & bodies. Is a steel chassis in your inventory of parts? I have a NOS Slick 7 kit bought years ago. Do you know whether brass/wire chassis are legal?

I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

Well, I got my answer from Doug. Short chassis' in the 4.00" or even shorter are the hot ticket on his Gerding King. Nothing I have even comes close. Going to shorten up the pillow blocks on my shortest car and see what happens.

Does anyone have any advice for helping a OMB Gp-12 last an entire race. Most of what I have is .513" arms with 38 to 42 deg. timing. I have Koford and Red Fox set ups. Stuff like air gap, EB treatment, gearing. Last 12 race I ran was a Yankee race in glue and the motor lasted. Car didn't do so well.

Koford Or Redfox setup ( go with the lightest setups you have), .513 diameter, 42 degrees, 530 airgap, 10/44 gearing should be fine. Shortest chassis you have, shorten the pillow blocks as much as you can, cut off the pans in the front. Red fox foxtail, cut 135/31-32, 4x4 wing kit, with the wings cut down. You might need to get a body from Timmy unless you can build wing bodies. Running in spray glue on a Gerding is actually pretty easy on motors. Poofed arms are pretty uncommon these days.

This Saturday 1/18, will be the first NENASRA series race of 2020 at Port Jeff Raceway. Raceway opens at 8:00 am. Scheduled classes are, OMBox, Hillbilly Box, TM 15, C12 and 27L. Hope to see you there.