Barrel
lapping is a very bad idea in the Savage 10ML-II,
and is not recommended by Henry Ball-- or such championship
barrel makers such as Dan Lilja of Lilja Precision barrels. "Fire
lapping" is perhaps the worst approach. Barrel lapping needlessly
takes life out of your barrel, and can give you ignition problems
as well.

Savage
10ML-II barrels are manufactured to the strictest standards in
the muzzleloading industry, with the bore having a rifling depth
of .004" +0 / -.0005". Firelapping from the breech end
is sloppy-- how do you know when it is "enough"? By
nature, you will remove more metal from the breech end than from
the muzzle, and you'll be hard pressed to possibly know how much,
and how far.

Polyethylene
sabots are very slick, having a very low coefficient of friction.
You need enough backpressure with smokeless powder to sustain
a complete powder burn. Opening up the barrel gives you the likelihood
of experiencing misfires with lighter bullets, or with some single
base powders that are harder to ignite. Not only is it a waste
of time, has never been shown to give any accuracy benefit, it
can either ruin your barrel, or severely restrict your weight
of projectile choice, or your powder choices.

If
you are the type of individual that just can't leave well enough
alone, the "J-B Bore Treatment," a very low abrasive
non-embedding paste available from Brownells, it the only
method that of smoothing a barrel that makes any sense. Widely
used by the bench rest community, it is more of a thorough barrel
cleaning than anything else. It may make a few saboted projectiles
easier to load, but that's about it. Individual sabots have their
own manufacturing tolerances, and for most-- rather than stroke
your bore 200 times, it just makes sense to use saboted projectiles
that fit your bore properly in the first place rather than going
the garage gunsmithing route. Bore lapping, particularly "fire-lapping,"
is both sloppy and irreversible.