The cold 2011 vintage was difficult in most of California, but especially in areas that bank on an extra notch or two of ripeness.

Much of the Russian River Valley functions that way, at least when it comes to the Pinot Noir that has become its bread and butter. If you were hoping for the deep, rich black-fruited flavors on which Russian River winemakers have built a brand, 2011 was going to make things more than a bit complicated.

This wasn't unexpected. After witnessing the appellation's 2010 lineup with the same issues - an attempt to craft oversize wines in an undersized vintage - why wouldn't the results be the same?

And yet, this time out was a bit different. Many wines in our tasting of about 50 bottles hovered with alcohol levels in the mid-13s, hinting of a Russian River mentality of yore. So perhaps the wines would simply reflect the vintage - taut, high-acid efforts closer in line to a soprano's part than the tenor line Russian River's richness tends to provide?

Not that, either.

Many of the wines seemed modest, true. But rather than taut and toned - or even offering the tart flavors scorned by those who prefer Russian River to show its magnitude - these came across more as anemic than lean. The flavors were subdued, the aromas were muted, even in some of the bottles that we liked.

Reflecting the vintage

We found some successes in the vintage, for sure, including wines from perennial talents like Suacci Carciere, Porter Creek and Freeman. But the general tone around our tasting table was far grimmer than I imagined.

"I didn't anticipate so much manipulation," concluded one of my panelists, Michael Jordan of K&L Wine Merchants, "so much burnt fruit and so little on the nose."

Was this just the ultimate fate of a late, cold vintage and attempts to salvage it?

Whether voluntary or not, these wines certainly were different enough from the luscious, cola-edged Russian River signature that they showed a willingness by vintners to make their wines reflect the vintage - something that was lacking in the 2010s.

Whatever the explanation, there are other issues that Russian River growers increasingly will have to face. After two major bouts of expansion in the past decade, one in 2005 and another in 2011, the Russian River Valley appellation now covers nearly 170,000 acres, stretching from southwest of Sebastopol to the Chalk Hill area northeast of Santa Rosa.

Those expansions had the net effect of turbocharging the engine that is Russian River Pinot.

What once captivated the area's partisans - wines from the core of the appellation near Healdsburg and Forestville, where pioneers like Dehlinger, Joseph Swan and Rochioli planted their sites - has migrated far afield. There is an undeniable sense of mission creep.

At the same time, there is also a heap of competition, especially from an even larger sibling, the Sonoma Coast. That appellation has all but claimed the crown as Sonoma's Pinot powerhouse, no different than the crown Russian River lifted from Carneros many years ago.

The balance of power has shifted - as witnessed by a growing number of vineyards that can choose between the two appellations, and choose to wear the mantle of the coast.

Time to talk quality

Which means that the wines that wear their Russian River origins proudly need to take a step up in quality. (No surprise there - I've been discussing this quality chasm for several years: http://is.gd/RSXN4w.)

After three years of cool vintages, the last two grindingly tough, 2012 brought easier, happier times to Russian River Valley. Will its wines rebound to challenge the Sonoma Coast gold rush? Or will the momentum in Sonoma Pinot Noir fully shift?

The answer in that lies in whether winemakers want to make a stand for a sense of place - or give in to the temptations of the easy sell.

2011 Suacci Carciere Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($30, 13.2%): The Suaccis and winemaker Ryan Zepaltas turned to a mix of sources here, including the Marshall Ranch and Balletto parcels, the latter of which is planted to Champagne-native clones. It's of that clean, dark-fruited, plummy style in which Russian River excels, matched with great acidity and an aromatic side that leans as much to lilac as sweet oak. Charming and focused.

2011 Porter Creek Fiona Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($46, 13.8%): Alex Davis' traditional interpretation was on the quiet side this year, a younger-drinking effort that shows the subtle plum and loam aspects displayed by good soils in the Westside Road area, and liveliness from its mineral-edged tannins.

2010 Papapietro Perry Peters Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($54, 14%): Peters is in that western slice of the appellation near Sebastopol, and easily called Sonoma Coast, but here wearing its Russian River sash with pride. Ben Papapietro and his team made the best of this vintage's uneven fruit, with lots of juicy raspberry and a dried-thyme savory side to balance the stylish dose of oak. Gazing forward, though it's still a way from release, the 2011 Peters Vineyard ($54, 13.5%) shows more classic Russian River black fruit but also a remarkable acidity and suppleness - a great showing for a stomach-knotting vintage.

2011 Shane Wines The Charm Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($42, 14.1%): When not making the wines at Lynmar, Shane Finley brings a tidy charm to the wines from his own teensy label. This latest is well-concentrated, offering great brambly fruit and a licorice-root sweetness. A gratifying wine for Russian River fans.

2011 Freeman Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($44, 13.7%): The blended wine from Freeman hails from seven sources across the appellation, and it's a great snapshot of how Russian River can excel. Tangy, focused and balancing the oak-tinged nose with pomegranate, ripe blackberry and a dried-oregano savory side. The largest lot hails from Keefer Ranch's Goldridge soils in the west of the appellation, and its rich black-fruit flavors are more distinct in the 2011 Freeman Keefer Ranch ($48, 14.1%), with its sweet cola accent.

2011 Trecini Vicini Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($26, 13.2%): The Vicinis have been farming in the Russian River area since 1994, and this spot near Chalk Hill yielded fantastic acidity and orange-like juiciness, perhaps showing the tension the 828 clone can offer. A slight camphor aspect and red cherry fruit round out a pleasing bottle to enjoy in the moment.

2011 Eric Ross Saralee's Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45, 14.4%): The fate of well-known Saralee's is up in the air after its purchase last year by Kendall-Jackson. But, among several 2011 interpretations, Eric Luse's offers a pretty, lemon-peel freshness amid the heady oak and sweet raspberry jam flavors - a solid interpretation of a core Russian River site.

2011 Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($27, 14.5%): Curiously enough, winemaker Corey Beck's 2011 work with this larger-production blend yielded a far bigger wine than in 2010. Straightforward, robust black pepper and strawberry aspects, with a subtle bite to the tannins that underscores a key Coppola priority: making a wine friendly for the table.