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September 22, 2007

This post is for my parents - my dad who was almost a Kashmiri himself, been born and brought up in Srinagar, (may his soul rest in peace), and for my mother, because of whom I am what I am today.

the kashmir valley

Most of my ancestors had lived for some time or the other in the Kashmir Valley, and as long as I can remember- despite being a typically punjabi family, kashmiri cuisine had firmly interwoven itself in the weft and warp of our lives.I made Rogan Josh for the first time when I was 11yrs old!.

As a child I remember, there used to be lavish parties thrown by my mother, who is an extremely gifted cook herself ,and for some very special guests "WAZWAN" was prepared. Let me give you a little introduction about wazwan, it is a unique concept and means "WAZ"-the chef person with the rare culinary skills passed on through generations, an artist who is obsessively and passionately involved with his art and who is one of the priveledged few flag bearers of this great Kashmiri tradition,"WAN" is the shop with the abundant supplies of meats and delicacies.

the vasta waza

My mother learnt much of Kashmiri Cuisine from the "VASTA WAZA"(head-chef) who is assisted by a court of waza's, the title conferred on a chosen few after years of apprenticeship.

The traditional Wazwan consists of 36 courses, each dish has it's own tradition and brings to mind- memories of momentous events and of special occassions.

the traditional preparation of wazwan

Thus the Wazwan is not a simple meal but a ceremony, first the "TASH-T-NARI" is passed around so that you can wash your hands, it would be sacrilege to use anything but your fingers to eat this meal.

People sit in fours to eat this meal, which is considered auspicious, I remember being a part of this meal a number of times. A large plate called "TARAMI" is used(my mom has a collection of these as well as of samovar's), which is heaped with rice and the first few courses,each successive course follows separately to allow you to savour the distinct flavors.

The cuisine of Kashmir has evolved over hundred's of years, the major influence was of Kashmiri pandit's -who use a lot of yogurt and turmeric and no onions or garlic, food is mainly cooked in mustard oil.The typical Kashmiri dishes are-

Chaman qaliya (cottage-cheese squares in gravy)

Dum Oluv (potatoes cooked in yogurt gravy)

Nadir Yakhn (lotus stem in a delicate yogurt sauce)

Hak(with nadir/vangan) (a local variety of greens)

Nadir Palak (lotus stem with spinach)

Mujh Chetin (a sharp radish and walnut chutney)

Rista (meatballs in a fiery red gravy)

Rogan Josh (tender lamb cooked with kashmiri spices)

Tabak Maaz (ribs of lamb simmered in yogurt till tender, then fried, can be served as a snack/side-dish)

Phirni (a dessert of rice flour thickened in milk set in earthenware cups with nuts and "varq"-silver leaf)

wazwan dishes

wedding wazwan-pounding meat for gushtaba's

Phirni is the dessert served at the end of the meal,a delicious preparation of rice flour and milk, the entire meal is washed down with "KEHVA" served in the "SAMOVAR"-green tea flavored with spices and served with slivered almonds in it, truly warming!

To date all of the above dishes are prepared in my mom's and uncle's home and will be posting some authentic recipes in the coming weeks.

Yesterday we went for an authentic Kashmiiri meal to Dilli Haat(opp. INA Market),New Delhi, since this is the only place in Delhi serving Wazwan, and maybe a few others.My uncle,aunt and cousin ordered a typical meal, enjoy the pics.

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comments
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a splendid and informative post, Bindiya. I had bought a book titled 'Wazwan' at a second-hand book shop. I'm still hesitating to try any recipe... there seems to be deep-frying and lots n lots of oil in each dish. I do look forward to your recipes.

Hello Bindiya!Your post was very informative.What is this a Kashmiri and I see only a chicken recipe:)no no we want more....I have never had the fortune of tasting authentic Kashmiri food.Hope to learn lots from you.

I really enjoyed reading this post. I love this part of India, although have not visited Kashmir. I have spent a lot of time in villages in South India and love the life a lot. You made me "homesick" for India.

hi babes...this is the first time that im reading your blog... And i have one thing to say.....It brought tears to my eyes....Im so proud of you...and especially this blog...loads of love n hugs to you...always...richa

hey bindiya... just bumped into ur site.. if you stay in mumbai then you can have authentic kashmiri khana from KONGPOUSH. it is yummylicious and genuine veg and non-veg kashmiri food... the taste of which will take you back to the days you remember here... have tried and tested and so recommend. call them on 98211 92910 / 98211 65098 and they will deliver anywhere in mumbai. zaps

AASHIQ Dear Happy to See for the first time such an exciting & full fledges pictures of the Kashmiri WAZWAN on The Internet. HATTS OFF TO YOUR SUCH AN INCREDIBLE EFFORT to give recognition to KASHMIRI WAZWAN>

hi, i reside in the uk. i love the pictures you have taken of both the landscape and the food(mmm). i have become acqainted with a kashmiri man living in wales, i would love to use your photo with the valley back drop for an advert promoting his kashmiri crafts. with your kind permission? liampanesh@yahoo.co.uk- hopefully soon i will be able to visit kashmir for myself and experience such fine cuisine you have in your pictures!!!

hi all??? wazwan is one of the best cuisine in the world... since i am a hotelier i have taste maximum cuisine of the world but i found kashmiri wazwan the best,,, i wish all the recipee of wazwan shd get famous all over the world,, people shd taste this cuisine if they have not ,,,, i wish i have daily wazwan ,,,,

I really apprecaiate on your good comments about Kashmiri wazwan.kashmiri wazwan is most delicious food in the world.I am also crazy for wazwan, i am missing Rista,Roganjosh,tabakmaaz,meeth,marchiwajan kormi,maambi choust and last full stop dish i.e Gushtaba. Sameer... From(Srinagar)

hello iam satishgoud from ap. one may be a kashmiri, punjabi , europeon or south indian but food is food i think it is the only divine revealation apart from music sent down upon earth by God. And talking of Wazwan i nver tasted it but the pics and the video clips assure me that it is really good.Bindiya you must be ecclectical in your food tastes otherwise you couldnt have given us so much thank you

Er Hilal Baramulla KmrWe welcome you to this heaven on earth for this very specialty, Wazwan !

It is said that anybody who visited Kashmir without tasting the famous cuisine Wazwan didn't infact visit Kashmir and the lovers of Wazwan further say that anybody who didn't taste the wazwan at Mughal Darbar didn't actually had the real thing. Besides being the heaven of tasty traditional food we are known world over for the wide range of cuisines, Continental, Traditional, Mughlai, Chinese .... The taste of our food has earned us the praise " The taste of nation ".