I just remembered that the local model train store sells EPS foam for making landscape back drops on model train boards. I would call a hobby shop/ model train store and see what they have, they also sell glues for EPS so you can glue in a new piece. Ours has blocks about 4" thick and maybe two feet long and other sizes. Cereal box's make great templates so make a cutting template. draw out the lines on board. Take jig saw with a long blade cut out a nice shape on the board then cut the same shape with the new foam glue in place reshape the foam then glass with slow cure. Hope this helps!

Not sure why the previous poster recommended against using XPS. I have successfully used it for several projects including splitting a board lengthwise and adding 4 inches to the middle. The XPS foam is a bit easier to sand. Also being slightly denser and closed celled it absorbs less resin during the repair. I actually used the Dow blue version. The densities are about the same and the main difference is the manufacturer with the Owens Corning product being pink.

Mark
The reason I suggested he use EPS over other foams is that I've heard of delamination problems with blue foam (Pink I think is the same) and since the densities are different then you could have problems with different flexing of materials. I also wonder if part of the problem with the delamination is because it doesn't absorb enough epoxy? As The Board lady has advised and from what I've experienced with repairs keeping materials a like doesn't create other problems down the road. Shaping EPS is not a big deal just light pressure and fine sand paper. I've even used a random orbital with a dust collection hooked up with 80 or 120 grit for rough shaping then hand shape with 220. Hope this help! Good luck! Cheers! Mike

I thought the recommendation against XPS was odd too, so did as much research as possible, and indeed, delamination is an issue. Apparently the rigid foam boards outgas when they get hot - this seems to cause the delamination. So I think I'll use the EPS wall board - it will require more layers, but that means stronger. Gorilla glue to adhere layers, I guess. I still cannot come up with any information about why spray foam would be bad - the only thing I can imagine is that it might expand too much, and deform the repair. I might give it a try nonetheless.

I had though to use spray foam to fill any void and provide adhesion between the new EPS and the old EPS. There should be enough room for excess to escape - no deformation. The 2-part marine foam BoardLady uses is expensive and I have no experience with it. The spray foam - which I've used before - is $4 a can. I know it to have low/no water absorption, and to adhere very well.

Jamie, remember that there are low expansion spray foams and "normal" expansion. Use only the low expansion because it will work its way into every gap and normal expansion can further delam the edges of the repair area. The type you want is used for door and window installation. Easy to find at hardware/big box stores._________________Support Your Sport. Join US Windsurfing!
www.USWindsurfing.org

Jamie
Take a look at Michaels Craft store they sell small blanks of Styrofoam. Picked up a 1"X 6" X12" piece to fix some damaged foam on a SUP that flew off a car. They also had 3" thick pieces. It's small beads so it sands nicely. I also used clear Gorilla glue (turns white when cured) worked fine sands easy with 120 grit sand paper. hope this helps. Mike

Ok, had 30 minutes with the board this week in a break from a clean-up visit. There is a seam that runs between blue EVA on rails and white EVA on the deck, so I don't have to cut it - but getting the EVA off will take several hours of work, unfortunately. Must be done - impact damage in several other spots on the rail (easy to fix). A flexible and sharp putty knife applied slowly and carefully seems to work, but what solvent to remove glue and bits of EVA that remain?

And then to the major damage. I went with Cellofoam boards from Home Depot instead of a Styrofoam cooler because the cooler didn't have enough flat pieces (and was same price). But a closer look at the wound - with EVA removed - reveals a crack in the nose (that was hidden under EVA), and a crack in the EPS core (see photos). the crack is of undetermined depth. obviously this has to be repaired first. Not sure how to do it, but I think perhaps some holes drilled to test the depth of the crack and to provide a way to get the spray foam all of the way in? And then yes, spray foam. Does this sound right? Obviously the nose crack will have to be glassed. And theres very slight de-laminiation around the edges of the whole wound. Can I simply squeeze in some Gorilla glue, or summer-cure epoxy through a syringe?

I have some one-year-old two-part blue epoxy "paint" that I though I would apply to the rails all around after all repairs are made, but I'm concerned about the age - is one year of storage ok?

gorilla glue will dry with no water applications, just takes longer. my guess, GG then "clamp" it with some phone books or such. not too much as to compress it too much. broad bonds that deep in the hull may not necessarily NEED TO be that strong, IMHO. this is a beater board right? why spend too much time and materials on the project? fix it, go play with it, gain some TOW skills. the market will have plenty of planing long boards that will get better soon._________________www.aerotechsails.comwww.exocet-original.comwww.iwindsurf.comhttp://www.epicgearusa.com/http://www.seanski.com/

Last edited by jingebritsen on Sun May 19, 2013 10:49 am; edited 1 time in total

You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forumYou cannot edit your posts in this forumYou cannot delete your posts in this forumYou cannot vote in polls in this forumYou can attach files in this forumYou can download files in this forum