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4/1/12

Holy Cow! What's open in D.F. Semana Santa

Semana Santa, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, is my favorite time of year in Mexico City. Why? Because so many people leave. God help those who decide to join the masses heading for Acapulco, Cancun or San Miguel de Allende!

During this week, our bulging metropolis, usually ruled by automobiles and their murderous drivers, turns into a peaceful, laid-back hinterland. The former 'Paris of the new world' c. 1960 returns. Empty streets, clean air--at least in the neighborhoods of those who can afford to escape (the Centro Histórico retains its usual mad-cap bee-hive activity).

So I often choose to stay put and enjoy what becomes 'my' city. While some people are lucky enought to have the whole week off, most depart starting on Wednesday, and things get quieter and quieter, grinding to a halt on Easter Sunday. You'll find no parades bonnets or bunnies here, just church.

One problem facing us remaining residents and visiting food-ivores is where to eat. I checked up on some of the high-end houses as well as my favorite joints. I was not surprised to find that no information is offered on any of the restaurant's websites (save that of Pujol) vis a vis holiday hours. So I called as many as I could. Much to my consternation several venues didn't even know yet; I was told to call later in the week, when they may have decided whether to stay open or not. There seem to be no rules: some places close for an extended period, some not at all. With that in mind, I present my findings; take them with a grain of salt, and be sure to call before you go. Semana Santa this year starts Monday, April 2nd, and ends Sunday, April 8.