I assume that the magnetron is the same as the shutdown thermal fuse, I think that is the problem as neither the broiler or bake element will come on. Repair man is coming Monday.I assume that the magnetron is the same as the shutdown thermal fuse, I think that is the problem as neither the broiler or bake element will come on. Repair man is coming Monday.

Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....

My electric oven will not heat:Things to check- Thescrew in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is theclock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.My electric oven will not heat:Things to check- Thescrew in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is theclock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.

Test with an ohm meter.. . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picturehere.

Test with an voltmeter.. .. . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch.Sample internal picturehere.

Checking a surface switch :Manyinfinite surface switchesphysically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.Test with an ohm meter.. . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picturehere.Test with an voltmeter.. .. . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch.Sample internal picturehere.

1) Remove oven racks, remove the mounting screws from the element mounting plate, found against the back wall of the range oven liner.

2) Pull defective element away from the back of the oven wall as far as the wire will allow ( the odd time, the wires may be too short and you may have to disconnect the wires from the element at the back of the range ).

3) Remove wire lead screws from the element.

4) Replace the element and reconnect the leads ( if only two wires going to the element, it does not matter which goes on left or right wire terminal ).

5) Tuck surplus wire behind insulation.

6) Line up holes and reinstall new element using existing screws.

Changing a basic bake element.disconnect power first!
1) Remove oven racks, remove the mounting screws from the element mounting plate, found against the back wall of the range oven liner.
2) Pull defective element away from the back of the oven wall as far as the wire will allow ( the odd time, the wires may be too short and you may have to disconnect the wires from the element at the back of the range ).
3) Remove wire lead screws from the element.
4) Replace the element and reconnect the leads ( if only two wires going to the element, it does not matter which goes on left or right wire terminal ).
5) Tuck surplus wire behind insulation.
6) Line up holes and reinstall new element using existing screws.

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Related Questions:

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If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas.

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

the surge from the original element burning out has destroyed the control board if you can't hear the relays on the board clicking when you power up the elements bake or broil then its either the low voltage side of the board,if you hear clicking then the relays are working but the contacts are burned out and can't pass the current to heat the oven or briol elements

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Your symptoms point to a failure in the electronic oven control board (that acts as the thermostat for the oven in this type of range). Unplug the range and remove the upper back panel to access this component. You will likely see to burn marks on the control board. The control board will need to be replaced in this situation.

Before installing the control board, I recommend that you check the bake and broil elements. Look for damage on both elements. Remove the lower back panel (with the range still unplugged ) and check the wiring connections on both elements. A damaged or shorted bake or broil element could have caused the problem with the control board.