"Quality action work keeps the gun from wearing out as fast and increases accuracy considerably. A lighter mainspring is essential to saving the trigger sear and having more accurate shots. I have fixed or replaced hundreds of triggers and hammers than have been worn out by heavy flat mainsprings. Get those Jeep springs out of there if you want your guns to last!"

Scroll down a little farther to see the pictures of a worn out trigger and hammer.

I would like to hear some opinions or experiences on how the above statement relates to the 100% American made USFA's. I have one and yes it does have a rather heavy mainspring but I like it. I think it is the best action I have ever felt, with the caveate that I am not "racing" the gun. I just shoot paper and steel at the range and have never used it for CAS/SASS. My question is, do I really need to replace the mainspring with a lighter one in order to prevent damage to the trigger and hammer?

YES!!! With a CAVEAT. Maybe several CAVEAT. The loudest argument on the planet. "These guns lasted 130 years" and that would be correct. Most of which only fired 50 to 100 rounds in those 130 years. The OEM springs in ALL the reproductions are too heavy.

The OEM springs in most reproductions are too heavy (already said that). WAY too heavy. Replacing/fitting new reduced power Springs will give your SA a longer life expectancy. Reduce wear of critical parts and just make the gun more user friendly. I did say "most." I actually like and use the Pietta Trigger Bolt Spring for action work. Not too heavy and super reliable, giving a nice crisp feel to the action. I use to grind Main Springs. I hate the taste of ground steel (uck) and have found two really good after-market replacements. I like the reduced power Main Spring from VTI GUNPARTS and I like the "Lee's Gunsmithing Gunslinger" springs from Brownells. Work a treat. Do understand those heavy main springs also serve to mask poor manufacturing and poor fit. First take the gun apart and clean up any burrs and machine tool marks. The drag of poor fit is not conducive to a harmonious outcome.

A "tuning" isn't a simple change of springs (or tweaking of those installed) or a polishing of wear spots. It includes that and removing stress areas that prolong the life of the part. Imparting the correct tension on a bolt so that it won't dig a trench in the cylinder. Adjusting the timing which will also protect cylinder locking notches. Shaping the bolt head which will also save the notches. Adjusting the cam height/surface so that that "too Iight aftermarket spring I put in" WILL work ( you just need to know why it won't work)! It also involves the parameters that the owner may want such as a particular hammer draw weight or trigger pull which you could call a "custom" setup. Just goes to show "tuning" is more than just being a parts changer. There's a lot more to it than what's mentioned above . . . . especially if you're doing a matching pair!!