1996 Chevy S-10 Air Condition Question

My S-10 became a little warm a few months ago so I took it to a shop
that charged the system at my request and added about 1 lb of R134a
and some dye.

It was good and cool for about two months then went again. I took it
back and they tested it and said the compressor had a leak and needed
replaced. The compressor, accunulator, and orifice valve were to be
replaced for 900+.
At the suggestion of a sometime mechanic friend I charged the system
with a retrofit kit to the proper reading and it was good and cold for
about 48 hours then went south again. There is some type of oil around
the compressor so I assume its blowing out there.
I am willing to replace the compressor myself as it looks like there
is only two bolts holding it on but I must first get the serpentine
belt off and I do see the idler pulley but am not real sure how it
works. It has a bolt on the front of it: Does it loosen to allow the
pulley to pivot or is the bolt tight when you move the pulley?
Second: I can't find the orifice valve and do know that it is very
small and necessary to have a new one. I intend to take the auto to an
air shop after installing all the parts for evacuation, leakage
testing, and recharging.
Sorry for the long message but this repair does look doable and after
shelling out 1100 for a new clutch a few months ago I thought I would
give it a whirl. Thanks again ...

Thanks guys for the quick replies:
I've looked high and low for the orifice and darn if I see it. I look
into the engine compartment from front to aft and on the left side is
the larger line with low side charge point and a smaller line. Is the
location down lower in the compartment perhaps?
The compressor is top right of course and the accumulator is right
close to it so they are no big problem as I'm sure the orifice is if
only I can pinpoint it.
DOC - I even bought a Haynes repair book for S-10 several weeks ago
but it does not have any pictures of what I need. I went to the
library yesterday and looked thru a few Chilton Truck Auto Repair
manuals and they had everything in them except air conditioning repair
... heh!
It appears that the auto industry wants to make sure that
non-mechanics (and I mean those that don't do it for a living) have to
hire out their work.
My mech work is generally average to the strong side of average.

The orifrice tube should be inside the smaller of the two lines that
goes into the firewall.
Its usually at the junction point half way between the condenser in
the front of the truck and the inlet into the cab through the firewall
going into your evaporator, inside the passenger compartment.
Its not very big so its easy to not notice it.

Bingo !
The days of shadetree mechanics was looking grim for awhile.
Its somewhat better now that R134a is available over the counter, like
R12 was.

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