B. J. Smith is mostly known for his barbecue prowess: in 2011, he opened Smokehouse 21 in the former Tanuki space on Northwest 21st Avenue, bringing ribs, brisket, and pulled pork to the neighborhood. Over the years he opened and closed several barbecue projects (and also competed on Top Chef Season 14), most recently landing on Smokehouse Provisions in Vancouver, and Smokehouse Tavern next door to Nostrana on Southeast Morrison.

Now, Eat Beat has learned, Smith will shutter Smokehouse Tavern on November 11 to reopen as Delores right after Thanksgiving: an homage to his late mother, a culinary inspiration, who passed away last year. Delores will have a “global focus,” with nods to Smith’s Polish heritage.

An early dinner menu shows crispy potato pancakes with sour cream and apple butter, potato truffle pierogi, and, of course, smoked kielbasa with Brussels sprouts sauerkraut. But this isn’t a straight-up Polish operation: lunch includes an eggplant Reuben, a cheeseburger with French onion soup vibes, and a pepperoni pizza bagel with pecorino Romano—sure to delight any ‘90s-nostalgic diners who spent too much time watching Bagel Bites commercials as children.