Sunday, May 1, 2016

How
“real” is the food you are eating? Owner Tracy Singleton and Chef Marshall
Paulsen of the Birchwood Café in Minneapolis are among a growing number of “real
food” restaurateurs who believe everything we eat should be what nature
intended. No chemicals, no genetic alterations, no flavor substitutes. Just
real farm-fresh, organically grown and carefully prepared to bring out all of
the natural flavors. It is the basis of their restaurant, their food philosophy
and their new cookbook. It has also been the basic food philosophy and practice
of Asian cultures for centuries.

Several
years ago I conducted a series of classes in Asian cooking for a group of food
scientists at a major food company. The purpose of the project was to acquaint
them with a variety of Asian flavors that they would go on to replicate
chemically. How sad it is when natural flavors have to be created from test
tubes so that processed food can be made shelf stable for worldwide
distribution.

But,
at Birchwood the flavors are from ingredients that are certified organic,
mostly from local producers and are farm-fresh. “The Birchwood Café Cookbook”
puts as much emphasis on the creation of the ingredients as on their
preparation and includes dozens of photos and stories about local farmers. With
Farmers’ Markets opening for the season, it is a good time to take a closer
look at what you are eating and where it comes from. Many local food producers
welcome visitors and some have special events. Check for websites for more
information.

One
example is DragSmith Farms of Barron, Wisconsin, owned and run by Gail and
Maurice Smith. Despite our cold winters, the Smiths grow micro greens and
lettuces all year ‘round in their vast hoop houses providing Birchwood with a wide
array of fresh greens no matter what the weather. Most surprisingly DragSmith
also grows artichokes, a thistle vegetable that normally requires a warmer
climate.

Another
local supplier mentioned in the book is Bullfrog Fish Farm of Menomonie,
Wisconsin, that markets and processes 14,000 pounds of Rainbow Trout every
year. In 1987, founder Herby Radmann had a vision of turning a pure water
resource hidden just below the surface of a sandy farm field into a thriving
business supplying fresh, chemical free fish to local users.

Woods
Maple Orchard in Elmwood, Wisconsin, was founded in 1840 and is still family
run by Steven and Dawn Wood along with their son Jason and other family members.
One of the largest maple syrup producers in the region, Woods has its own sugar
shack right in the middle of its beautiful maple woods taking the sap directly from
the trees straight to processing. Last year Woods Maple Syrup was named best in
show by the North American Maple Syrup Council and International Maple Syrup
Institute beating out entries from all over the United States and Canada. The
firm also won the award in 2007.

So
how does Birchwood use all of these local products? In some very interesting
ways. Recipes in the book include Surly Maple Braised Pork Belly Benedict where
pork is slowly cooked in maple syrup and beer. Smoked Trout Quiche uses the local
fish to brighten an otherwise bland dish. Apple and Alemar Salad with Cranberry
Vinaigrette combines a number of local ingredients including Bent River cheese.
And Indonesian Chicken Stew is a take off on the classic opor ayam with more than a dozen flavors that blend beautifully.

“The
Birchwood Café Cookbook”was
published by the University of Minnesota Press in 2015 and is available through
Amazon and local bookstores or at the café, 3311 East 25th Street,
Minneapolis. Local food writer Beth Dooley and photographer Mette Nielsen added
their talents to help make this a readable, colorful book. The photos alone
will make you want to start cooking and the recipes will give you a new
appreciation for Good Real Food. Pick up a copy soon!

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Read more about Asian food in Minnesota and try more than 160 recipes in Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875, in bookstores and on amazon.com.

About Me

ASIAN CULINARY ARTS INSTITUTES
Dedicated to the preservation, understanding and enjoyment
of the culinary arts of the Asia Pacific Rim.
Founded in 1994, ACAI offers food professionals and cooking enthusiasts a source for learning about the more than 50 extraordinary cuisines of the Asia Pacific Rim. ACAI has created recipes, classes, events, and informational materials featuring the traditional cuisines of China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, and more.