Lesser Antilles: 29 January – 7 February 2004

INTRODUCTION

I spent 2 weeks visiting islands in the Caribbean with Neil Bostock. We spent the first four days in the Dominican Republic with Dave Pitman and friends, seeing most of the specialities, then flew to Antigua and spent nine days visiting Antigua, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St Lucia, St Vincent and Montserrat. We saw all 27 endemics in range on the Lesser Antilles, possibly the quickest this has been achieved, at least by public transport. We had insufficient time for Granada Dove and Barbuda Warbler, thanks to flight schedules, and did not look for Barbados Bullfinch that was split from Lesser Antillean Bullfinch after our visit. Had the flight back to the DR been earlier, we could have spent a day on Barbuda or Grenada.

The Pitman Dominican Republic trip report by Dave Klauber is on

http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=219, so the present report is confined to our experience in the Lesser Antilles. We saw all the endemics except Ridgway’s Hawk, Ashy-faced Owl and Eastern Chat-Tanager; the Hawk and Owl were seen briefly after we left. We did not see Grey-headed Quail-Dove – the form here will probably be split from that on Cuba.

All the islands depend heavily on tourism and, except for Montserrat, have beautiful beaches and good tourist facilities. The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique are the busiest and by far the best developed (thanks to the EU), with some good volcanic scenery, walking opportunities and a lot of French tourists. Monserrat is a British protectorate and a bit of a shambles, thanks to the volcanic eruptions in 1995-97 and our failure to spend the necessary money to sort it out, but well worth a 24 hour visit. The remainder are independent countries in the Commonwealth.

TRANSPORT

We flew from Manchester to Punta Cana, Dominican Republic, on a Thompson charter for £148 www.thomsonflights.com. There was a $20 departure tax from Dominican Republic. It was a no frills, no meals or drinks flight and in retrospect we wished we had paid the extra £10 for a meal and drink each way as they didn’t look too bad; a bit cramped but what do you expect for the price.

Caribbean flights were booked with Liat through Caribjet: [email protected] 0208 581 2321 or Jan Hutchings at [email protected] 01444 455993. They fly to all the islands except Barbuda and Montserrat but may go to the latter in 2005 when the new runway opens. They use Antigua and Barbados as hubs and have air-passes, although I was able to secure a betterspecial deal through Caribjet. We paid £393 for the 5 flights Santo Domingo – Antigua – Guadeloupe, St Lucia – St Vincent – Antigua – Santo Domingo, the main expense being Santo Domingo. Without this leg, eg if you fly direct to Antigua, which can now be done cheaply, island-hopping is much cheaper. In theory there is a charge of $30 every time you change flights as booked but this was not applied when we changed dates.

Caribbean Star has direct flights between some of the islands and Air Caribe/ Air Martinique operate flights from the French islands but are more expensive. For Barbuda, use Carib aviation 268 562 2742 [email protected] , departing at 0745 and 1700 from Antigua, US$72 return - reserve several days in advance.

Montserrat is accessible, only from Antigua, by daily ferry or by helicopter: Montserrat Helicopter Service 664 491 2533 or 2362, going every day except Wed and Sat for $112 return. They are prone to delay and cancellation due to the weather, and only carry a few people, which is why we were unable to take one. Book and buy tickets a few days ahead.

We used the Express des Iles catamaran ferries www.Express-des-Iles.com - pre-booking unnecessary - to travel between Gaudeloupe, Dominica and Martinique – cheaper than flying. They usually go on to St Lucia but at this time one boat was having its annual service so this route was running only twice a week. There are two other ferry companies, with more limited services.

International car-hire companies operate on most islands. Budget appeared to be the cheapestbut gave problems in accessibility. On Guadeloupe, the office did not open until 0715, later on Sun, and we arrived and wanted to leave before this, which delayed us so that we almost missed the ferry. We could not contact them to advance the booking on Martinique, so had to use Avis there. Valley Rent-a-car [email protected] 767 448 3233 or 2279 were good on Dominica, will come to the ferry terminal or airport with car and paperwork.

MISCELLANEOUS

We had no security or health problems. Visas are not required anywhere but we were refused entry at St Lucia airport as we did not have a hotel booking. Were allowed to go to the helpful tourist desk to make one.

There are useable ATMs in main towns.

Useful websites:-

www.caribbean.co.uk

http://www.geocities.com/secaribbirds for photos

http://www.visitmontserrat.com/

We had some light rain most days, heavy showers on two days, and rain most of one morning on Dominica.

English is spoken by many people, except on the two French islands of course.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We are very grateful for information given by Mike Fleig, Floyd Hayes, Dave Klauber, Anthony Levesque, Alan Lewis, Gail Mackiernan, Rob Morris and Dave Sargeant. Dave Pitman was a source of strength and great help in the Dominican Republic.

Fri Jan 30 Flew to Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe 06.25-06.45 (delayed by 20 mins due to a flat tyre!). Drove in Budget Rent-a-car at 08.30 to the D23. Birded Rio Corossol and nearby area 09.30-12.30. Guadeloupe Woodpecker, Forest Thrush. Plumbeous Warbler, both thrashers,Brown Trembler, and Bridled Quail-Dove for NB. Then drove to the Gare Maritime, Pointe à Pitre to buy ferry tickets to Dominica and Martinique, before returning to Rio Corossol and onwards to thepass to look for Swifts. Ate pizza at Le Lizard Vert near Vernou and crashed out in the car at the river picnic site.

Sat Jan 31 Dawn at Rio Corossol, still no Quail-Dove, then drove to airport to drop the car. Transferred by Budget to the Gare Maritime for 08.00 ferry to Dominica, reaching Roseau at 10.35, 20 mins late due to engine problems. Met by Valley Cars and drove to Springfield House, near Canefield. Full but birded a nice trail, before driving up the coast to the Syndicate Estate Reserve, seeing Red-necked and Imperial Parrots, Blue-headed Hummingbird, Lesser Antillean Pewee, Lesser Antillean Flycatcher, (Antillean) House Wren, Rufous-throated Solitaire, and Antillean Euphonia. Left at 6 pm, stopping at several small hotels but as none were suitable, stayed at St James Guest House in Roseau. Ate at Vena’s Guest House – 35EC for set dinner.

Sun Feb 1 Up at 05.00 and drove in the dark to Syndicate Estate Reserve, to look for Forest Thrush – great view - and Blue-headed Hummingbird, found after a long search. Drove back to Roseau, stopping at Canefield Airport to sort out car-hire on Martinique, reaching St James at 3 pm. Returned car at jetty at 3.30 but 4.15 ferry was delayed. Finally disembarked in Fort de France, Martinique at 18.30. Picked up Avis car and drove to the Presqu’île la Caravelle, stopping for a meal at Robert. Dossed in car park.

Mon Feb 2 Walked into reserve at 06.15 at first light and soon saw 2 White-breasted Thrashers, feeding like pittas in dry stream bed, then Martinique Oriole along trail to mangroves, and Lesser Antillean Saltator. Drove to airport to cancel Budget booking and buy evening flight to St Lucia, then to Boucheur Plateau for Grey Trembler, Blue-headed Hummingbird, Rufous-throated Solitaire and Antillean Euphonia. Left at 12.30 for a look at Mt Pelee, then back down to Fort de France, stopping at restaurant for a goat stew. Continued past the airport to Le Manzo reservoir, holding distant West Indian Ducks, then to airport for 17.15 flight – fully booked but goton at last minute - to St Lucia, arriving 17.45. Stopped at Casa del Vega Guest House, near Castries airport ($42 per double).

Tues Feb 3 At 05.00 drove to Millet Rain Forest Trail where we met guide Aloashas. Walked to parrot look-out where spent next 2 hours, seeing St Lucia Parrot, St Lucia Warbler, St Lucia Oriole and Grey Trembler, plus Lesser Antillean (St Lucia) Pewee for NB. Then did the nature trail for St Lucia Black Finch, also seeing St Lucia Boa Constrictor. Returned to Casa del Vega and checked on further arrangements, before visiting Castries town. Capped a successful day with fish and chips and a few beers.

Wed Feb 4 Up at 05.00 for toast and coffee. 06.20 – 08.30 flights to St Vincent, changing in Barbados. Met at Kingstown by Macloud who took us to the Botanical Gardens where we failed to find Granada Flycatcher but did see the black morph of Bananaquit. Driven at 10.30 to Vermont Forest Reserve where Fitzroy Springer was ready to take us to on the Loop Trail to see St Vincent Parrot (many at the overlook) and Whistling Warbler (only on the way down). Lesser Antillean Tanager and Grenada Flycatcher were next to the office. Late afternoon, drove to Riverside Apartments, just beyond airport and had a pizza and beer at a nearby hostelry

Thurs Feb 5 Flew to Antigua 07.35 – 09.00, and tried to get helicopter to Montserrat, only to discover our phone booking was not honoured and the flight was full. Had to wait till 17.00 for the ferry, so looked round he town and hitched to Lashings to check the coastal lagoon there, to no avail. Returned to Deep Bay Harbour, via Fort St James. Reached Montserrat at 18.10, to be met by Scriber Daley who took us to a guesthouse, then a small bar for burgers and beer.

Fri Feb 6 Scriber arrived at 07.00 and we walked up the hill to see Montserrat Oriole, Bridled Quail-Dove and Forest Thrush. Looked elsewhere for Euphonia without success, then drove to Plymouth to see the devastation caused by the volcanic eruptions, somewhat curtailed by heavy rain. Looked unsuccessfully for Red-billed Tropicbird from a cliff viewpoint but caught up with it later at the ferry terminal. Hoped to castch the chopper back but cancelled due to the bad weather, so had to wait for the ferry back to St John’s, Antigua, seeing a few birds such as Brown Booby, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Peregrine and Belted Kingfisher. Sickly journey in heavy seas 18.45-20.10, followed by long wait to clear immigration. Taxi to Piggottsville, which was still open, fortunately – watched Bob Marley documentary on TV.

Sun Feb 8 After a short night and another failure to see the owl, though did see a rare Double-striped Thick-knee on the road, drove to Santo Domingo, briefly stopping at the zoo to look for wild birds in the grounds, and on to Punta Cana in lovely weather. The Britannia charter left on time at 17.15, reaching Manchester at 05.35.

RECOMMENDED ITINERARY The logistics of visiting so many islands in a short time are difficult to arrange. Based on our experience, my recommended itinerary is as follows, but it is likely to be upset by changes to flight and/ or ferry schedules .

Day 1 Arrive Antigua, book day return flight to Barbuda. Stay overnight at the Piggotsville Hotel.

Day 2 Take 8 am ferry to Montserrat, checking in and buying ticket at 7 am. Arrive at 9 am and find Montserrat Oriole with Scriber, plus Bridled Quail-Dove and Forest Thrush if poss. Can also see Red-billed Tropicbird on coast. Fly back to Antigua or catch 6.30 pm ferry.

Day 3 Early morning flight to Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe for an overnight stay. Find Guadeloupe Woodpecker, plus Bridled Quail-Dove and Forest Thrush if not seen on Montserrat. Plumbeous Warbler (shared with Dominica) should be easy. Buy ferry tickets to Dominica and Martinique, plus St Lucia if available/ convenient.

Day 4 Take 8 am ferry to Dominica (daily except Sun when may go in afternoon), arriving at Roseau at 10.00. Day at the Syndicate Estate Reserve, seeing Red-necked and Imperial Parrots, Blue-headed Hummingbird (otherwise only found on Martinique), Lesser Antillean Pewee, Lesser Antillean Flycatcher, (Antillean) House Wren, Rufous-throated Solitaire, and Antillean Euphonia. Stay at St James Guest House Roseau, Morning Bird Hotel (opposite Castaway Hotel), or the more expensive Springfield House, surrounded by good birding habitat, near Canefield.

Day 5 Revisit Syndicate Estate Reserve, look for Forest Thrush and other species missed previously. Take the afternoon ferry to Fort de France, Martinique on Fri or Sunday (Mon, Wed, Sat leaves at 10.15 so best to spend another night) for an overnight stay at Tartane, a small village on the Presqu’île la Caravelle.

Day 6 See White-breasted Thrasher at dawn, then Martinique Oriole and Lesser Antillean Saltator. Then drive to Boucheur Plateau for Grey Trembler, Blue-headed Hummingbird, Rufous-throated Solitaire and Antillean Euphonia. Late afternoon fly to Castries, St Lucia – may be able to take afternoon ferry on Fri or Sunday.

Day 9 Fly to St George’s, Grenada for a two nights stay. At the Mount Hartman Estate, see the Grenada Dove, a difficult species, hence the 2 nights.

Day 10 Grenada

Day 11. Early morning flight to Antigua, preferably via Barbados where the Bullfinch can be seen at the airport. Relax and look for West Indian Whistling-Duck.

Day 12 Day trip by plane to Barbuda for the Warbler and a visit to the Magnificent Frigatebird breeding colony.

NOTES ON THE ISLANDS

It is possible to see all the endemics in 24 hours on all the islands, although it would be prudent to stay a little longer on Dominica to be sure of Imperial Parrot. My favourite islands were Dominica and St Vincent. Wheatley and Brewer’s Where to watch birds in Central America and the Caribbean (2001) is very useful for site and species information.

Antigua

Highly populated, fairly busy, flat except for the hilly southern end, small patches of woodland, no forest, few birds, little of general interest.

Guadeloupe

Highly populated, expensive, much traffic, manyFrench tourists; one half flat, the other attractive, mountainous with good hiking infrastructure and birding.

Visit Cascade aux Ecrevisses trail (to a waterfall) and picnic area, Basse Terre, especially dawn and dusk, a few km along the D23 west of Vernou. Forest Thrush and Woodpecker are easy here, and Bridled Quail-Dove occurs, especially at the picnic site at dusk. Continue for another km or so and stop at the Scout Camp on the right where there are good trails. After another km or so, take the first tarred road on the left to the R. Corossol picnic site, stopping to bird the forest along the way.

Dominica

Mountainous, well-forested, small population centres, laid-back, no nice beaches (on west coast), metalled road but winding and potholed. Springfield House, near Canefield is an attractive place to stay, though full of students when we visited.

Highly developed, good roads, huge capital with much traffic, partly mountainous. Visit the nice coastal reserve Presqu’île la Caravelle, at dawn for White-breasted Thrasher, Martinique Oriole and Lesser Antillean Saltator, then Plateau Boucheur later for Grey Trembler, Blue-headed Hummingbird, Rufous-throated Solitaire and Antillean Euphonia. The large Le Manzo reservoir past the airport is worth a look for West Indian Duck.

St Lucia

Mountainous, friendly, good beaches, but Castries uninspiring.

Contact Lyndon John - email: [email protected], helpful but passed us on to Adams Toussaint. Mobile 758 461 2878, Work 758 450 2231 ext. 317, Home 758 450 3218. [email protected] Hire a jeep from Budget, Dollar or National and spend morning at Millet Rain Forest Trail for the parrots, oriole and black finch. $30 each for permit and guide, eg Aloashas who was quite good. Beware of chiggers in the grassland.

St Vincent

Smaller version of St Lucia but less developed and few beaches.

Visit the Vermont Nature Trail (paved road to top but not in great condition, can be done in a regular car with care) for parrots, from mid-afternoon, and Whistling Warbler. Granada Flycatcher is usually seen in the Botanical Gardens, just outside Kingstown; we could not find it but saw it later behind the Vermont office building.

Volcanic, with a lot of devastation from the major irruption several years ago; small population now, very friendly and safe, some beaches, no cheap accommodation. Daily ferry, OK in daytime but not much fun if returning at night. Helicopter service preferable: 664 491 2533 or 2362, goes 0830, 1030, 1530 most days for 300EC return. New airport being built but will only take small planes (thanks to British government stinginess).

Essential to book Scriber Daley, tel 664 491 5048 or 492 2943 ($40 each), to show you the Oriole and Bridled Quail-Dove. He took us to Grand View B & B, 664 491 2284, email [email protected], good but expensive. Red-billed Tropicbird nests on the coast near the ferry terminal, and a pond c.1 km north of the terminal held a few birds, eg Lesser Yellowlegs, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and Belted Kingfisher.

SYSTEMATIC SPECIES LIST

Taxonomy, names and sequence follow Clements, JF (2001) Birds of the World: a Checklist, with a few modifications to names.