An Extra Delicious Farewell…

Jaen, Eastern Andalucia

Touring Andalucia’s eastern region with Tasty Andalucia

Spain is responsible for 50% of the world’s Olive Oil. Jaen produces approximately 600 million kilos

Day 4. Location Jaen. Extra Oil Thursday

EVOO, VOO & OO – the humble olive, a key ingredient of the Mediterranean diet and one of Spain’s biggest exports

The olive is one of the 3 core food plants in the Mediterranean diet, the others are wheat & grapes. Olive Oil is the cornerstone to the Mediterranean diet as it consists of mainly oleic acid which is dubbed the ‘healthy fat’ due to its many health benefits including to the; heart, brain, mood, skin, cells and (believe it or not) waistline. Oleic acid is also found in the acorns eaten by the Iberian Pig, hence the fat from the Iberian pigs, found in Jamon, (Manteca Iberica) being a healthy fat. (Find out everything you need to know about Jamon here).

Driving north to Jaen through millions of olive trees, we met with Manuel Jesus Sutil Garcia, head of the Consejo Regulador, DO Sierra Magina at their beautiful headquarters in Bedmar. With him was Juan Balbin Garrido, the agricultural minister for Jaen, who is campaigning to unite the 3 separate DO’s in Jaen (Sierra Magina, Cazorla and Segura) under the same umbrella; DO Jaen. They are waiting for approval of the EEC to make this happen.

The Olive Oil production process; separating the olives from the leaves & stalks – which become animal feed

The predominant olives of the 60,000 hectares of DO Sierra Magina are Picual and Manzanilla de Jaen. Picual is responsible for all their Extra Virgin Olive Oils (EVOO). There are 29 Olive Oil firms in and around 15 villages producing a staggering 2 million litres of olive oil each year.

We were shown around the tasting room where the professional tasters, ‘noses’, sit in small cubicles rating samples of the oils as they come in after harvest. They taste the oils in small blue glasses without any information at all. A blind tasting. They are looking for defects, such as too much acid, the oil is then rated as Extra Virgin Olive Oil or Virgin Olive Oil.

Blind tasting at DO Sierra Magina. The lower the acidity, the better the EVOO.

My Takeaways;

The lower the acidity, the better the EVOO. The higher the acid the less pleasant the flavour

Extra Virgin is the premium cold press oil using olives that have just been harvested from the tree, giving low acidity of less than 0.08% per 100 ml

Virgin is also cold press but higher in acidity because it’s a mixture of tree harvest and olives which have fallen. The longer the olives are off the tree the higher the acid. The acidity must be less than 2% per 100 ml

Olive Oil is the second pressing when heat and sometimes chemicals are added to gain the final drops. This makes it more resilient for cooking with heat

This is a personal take, but I never cook with EVOO or Virgin Olive Oil, you are paying for the flavour and this completely changes when heated

Tasting oils with Manuel Jesus Sutil Garcia, head of the Consejo Regulador, and Blas Melgarejo – Commerical Director of the family business

Now it was our turn to rate the oils at a blind tasting. We sat in the boardroom with 3 little blue cups with glass lids. Blue so you can’t be influenced by the colour of the oil. A plate of apple slices to clean palates between each oil looked dull and insipid in comparison.

No 1 I liked – but then I was told it was full of defects.

No 2 was yummier – but I was told it was old.

Number 3 was a sensation in the mouth.

I wished then for a fairy Godmother to arrive with a plate of Lola’s (Clisol) tomatoes and a large glass of chilled Fino. No 3 was the lowest in acid, it was premium extra virgin Picual.

Delicious tomatoes from Clisol, a perfect match for EVOO

My Extra Takeaways;

Spain is responsible for 50% of the world’s production of OO

World Olive Oil production; 3 billion kilos

Spanish Olive Oil production; 1.6 billion kilos

Andalucian Olive Oil production; 1.3 billion kilos

All 3 DO’s of Jaen; 600 million kilos which is approximately 35% of Spain’s total production

The size of the olive is no indication the amount of oil contained within – it just means it contains more water. The oil content will always be the same regardless of size.

Harvest takes place November to March

An ALMAZARA is an olive oil mill

Picual has a shelf life of 4 years and is a late harvest olive

The greener an Olive Oil is in colour does not affect the flavour. The green colour comes from the chlorophyll

At the museum at DO Sierra Magina

Getting the most unexpected surprise at lunch in Pegalajar!

Lunchtime beckoned but given the remoteness of our location, there was a level of anticipation. The thing about Andalucia is that food is one of the most important aspects of daily life. Quality food. Slow food. The adage ‘the simpler the better’ is often true here. We followed Manuel up a very twisty mountainous road with rocks on one side and a sheer drop on the other (protected by bollards thank goodness), and olive trees as far as the eye could see. Our little bus laboured around each bend until suddenly we plateaued and started descending into yet another valley and the charming small town of Pegalajar.

Here we were entertained to the most spectacular food, in what was almost the middle of nowhere, it absolutely blew us all away! Alcuza de Pegalagar is a family run, understated, and unassuming restaurant. Mum and son in the kitchen, dad behind the bar. We walked in, presented ourselves at the bar and all I could think of was a chilled Manzanilla.

“I don’t suppose….” I started, which to my surprise was followed by ”Si Manzanilla en Rama de Sanlucar”. I instantly knew this place was going to be great! En Rama (meaning unfiltered sherry) was poured out of a stainless steel Olive Oil pourer, the type used in kitchens but this one was LARGE, almost like a watering can, straight from his fridge and served in a white wine glass alongside a plate of warm mini chorizos.

Lunch started with 2 fabulous Olive Oils from Melgarejo, the Almazara we were to visit after our lunch. Some long green Cornicabra olives and warm bread lead the way to 5 savoury dishes including artichokes, prawns, hake, aubergines (hollowed out, deep fried & filled with salmorejo), a selection of meats and a pudding plate of mixed delights, which was served with a glass of Port. Delicious wines were served throughout, including La Panesa Fino de Jerez which paired perfectly with the artichokes. Eventually, we had to drag ourselves away from the table to head up the hill to Melgarejo to watch the production from olive to oil.

Melgarejo is a family run enterprise producing highly regarded, award-winning EVOO, with exports reaching as far as Japan. They offer a range of Premium EVOOs from olives other than Picual. Their modern facility was busy as it was harvest time, and lorry loads of freshly harvested olives were constantly arriving. Following de-stemming, it was straight into the press. The air was heavy with fresh green grass, the scent of the freshness of the olives.

The tasting consisted of this season’s Arbequina, Hojiblanca & Picual. The colours in the bottles were vibrantly green, oozing with chlorophyll.

Premium EVOOs from Melgarejo, with exports reaching as far as Japan

Leaving the tasting room via their tiny shop, I just couldn’t resist a bottle of each of the Hojiblanca (my prefered oil for Ajo Blanco) and the Picual, as it was some of the yummiest EVOO I’ve ever tasted. The trendy labelling of the bottles will enhance any kitchen.

My Highlights;

The surprise of lunch in the middle (of what felt like) nowhere, at restaurant Alcuza

Again, the beauty of the dramatic landscapes

Learning all about olives; the role of acidity in olives, the tree olives vs those off the ground

How the design of EVOO labels has advanced with sophisticated designs to appeal to consumer’s eye

Getting home to my own bed in Vejer early Friday morning…

EXTERNAL LINKS – Day 4, Jaen, Andalucia

My final thoughts

Everywhere I went I met people who were passionate about what they were doing with the focus being environmentally friendly food production techniques. Wherever I went, it was all slow food. Zero miles. Nothing I saw was imported (only pineapples, but I don’t eat them!). The contrast of the landscape between eastern and western Andalucia really impressed me; the west having the desert of Almeria, and the vineyards at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. The sustainable agriculture being pioneered in the polytunnels in Almeria was particularly surprising, this was something I previously did not understand. The fabulous ‘lonja’ (fish auction) at Almeria port, the sheep’s cheeses (here in the east we have goat’s cheese) & artisan wines of Granada. The enormity of the Olive Oils production of Jaen. And of course the raisins and Moscatel of Malaga. Andalucia could be a self-sufficient state. It certainly has everything I want and need. Thank you to my fellow travellers Erik, Molly, Zorra and Rafa for the the fun, laughs and shared enthusiasm for everything we experienced.

Annie in the press

Annie B's Food Holidays in the Press

People Love Annie B

So much more than cooking...Annie has a knack of making you feel as if you have known her for ages and the day was fun and informative. Eating the fruits of our labour up on the fabulous terrace with my fellow students was lovely and my daughter who was visiting me at the time was Continue Reading

miloleicestershireleicestershireJanuary 8, 2015

Just one day at Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen makes you feel like you’re at a good friend’s kitchen.

pollockceAyase, JapanJanuary 8, 2015

From the first contact Annie was so friendly and helpful – and patient with all my questions as I tried to work out how to get to Vejer from Seville by public transport!

tui52Auckland, NZJanuary 8, 2015

We enjoyed our cooking course with Annie B., it offerd much more than we could imagine. Helena

HelenaHelsinkiApril 2015June 12, 2015

Your course was a big help in bringing some great food back to our home dinner table as well as opening my eyes to more of the Sherry opportunities.

Mark & DeeSydney, AustraliaJuly 8, 2016

Thanks for the great recipes, and sherry education - not something I would have ever drunk before coming to Vejer, yet now my poor house guests have had sherry, sherry cake and a lecture from me about the making of sherry! Lindsay

LindsayEdinburghAugust 26, 2016

If you love food, culture and a splash of wine with a passionate person who understands the special ingredients of Andalucia then you could not spend a better day in this beautiful hilltop village.

October 27, 2016

Annie B’s tour was a perfect blend of food and drink for our group of wine-obsessed Americans/American Sommeliers. Annie is passionate and hilarious, she planned an action packed few days for us focussing on Spanish wine and Sherry, which we wanted to explore, and also the gourmet delights of Cadiz that she is so knowledgeable Continue Reading

Thank you once again, we truly had the most wonderful experience with you in Vejer. Our expectations were high coming to your classes and unbelievably were far surpassed! I am looking forward to trying your wonderful recipes at home.

Thank you so much for the memorable time we had with you and providing a window into your world. We have loved this opportunity and look forward to sharing these new ways of doing things in the kitchen with family and friends. We also have new friends in Clare and Jen and hope that one Continue Reading

Peter & MaryanneAustraliaApril 29, 2017

Almadraba – What an Experience!

I have just returned from the most fabulous four days on Annie's Almadraba tour. What a wonderful experience! Beautifully organised and super friendly with many homely touches but a fierce professionalism in the background so that everything runs like clockwork. The cooking course was terrific, the tapas tours memorable, the sherry tasting interesting and educational Continue Reading

Julia Thum Bray, UKMay 25, 2017

Everything we had hoped for…

The four day course fulfilled everything we had hoped for, and because of the relaxed and generous way it was delivered, we are agreed that you pleasantly exceeded our expectations.

John & JaneDevon, UKJune 9, 2017

Great Fun for Foodies!

We spent a fabulous week with Anne exploring the food and drink of Andalusian Spain. We based ourselves in the beautiful hilltop town of Vejer de la Frontera, Anne's home. Cooking classes at her hilltop home, degustaciones of fresh tuna on the coast, Sherry tastings at bodegas, Arabic food luncheons, Tapa's tours and fabulous meals Continue Reading

Stephen Puerto RicoSeptember 29, 2017

Fabulous food and such fun

Annie makes cooking and eating delicious food a course requirement. We explored the beautiful town of Vejer, tasted sherry in atmospheric bodegas and sampled fabulous tapas. It was all well organized and felt like an ongoing party instead of a course. If the opportunity to attend one of her classes presents itself jump at it!

Diane BerkNY, USAOctober 30, 2017

Bespoke Culinary Adventure was terrific

I love my friends and we all love food, so seven of us arranged 5 days with Annie (one came specially from the US). She is such a warm and easy person she was part of the gang at once and we followed her around like greedy ducklings while, with huge knowledge and authority, she Continue Reading

Verity, LondonFebruary 28, 2018

Thank you :)

Thank you for a wonderful day of cooking in your beautiful home! Great food, great sherry, great company! We loved Vejer!

Suzanne Leonardson Hall New Jersey, USAMarch 23, 2018

We had a fantastic day in Tangiers, arranged by Annie B

Our guide was Abdul, such an amazing man, and so knowledgeable. He seemed to be the "grandfather" of the guides. He also seemed to know all the right people in Tangier. I don't know if all the tours are like that, but we were impressed! I can´t believe how much we packed into the day. Continue Reading

Marianne C & familyVancover B.C.April 2, 2018

When can we return?

Your passion and generosity from our first email exchange, truly was such a gift to our journey. You significantly helped 'sketch' our itinerary, a trip to be remembered. I still am suffering from Spanish fever and cannot wait to return. And Erizo, never again will a bite be taken without an immediate flashback to the Continue Reading

Mike & Heather BSeattle, USAMay 15, 2018

Day Trip to Tangiers

Thank you very much for organising our trip to Tangiers. All a great success and Aziz was charming and lunch was out of this world! We needed a bit more time in the souk, but can always go back another time!

Family DiamondJune 2017June 17, 2018

Just delicious!

Thank you for such a lovely experience. Both my mother and I had a great time. Your kitchen and home is warm and inviting, and your rooftop terrace devine! All of the food was delicious, and we can't wait to try and reproduce some of the recipes.