A new installment of a small chain of BBQ restaurants will be turning the lights back on at this critical economic midpoint of Barret Avenue. Take a look at what it has to offer.
Bobby Shipman/Courier-Journal/USA TODAY Network

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Typically, I don’t critique chain restaurants, instead preferring to focus on Louisville-grown establishments. However, with the much-anticipated arrival of a new tenant in the iconic former home of Lynn’s Paradise Cafe, I decided to make an exception.

That’s right, a new installment of a small chain of BBQ restaurants will be turning the lights back on at this critical economic midpoint of Barret Avenue.

Coined Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint, this chain – which originated in Tennessee – already has a Kentucky location, introducing the concept to Louisville’s Indian Springs neighborhood in November 2016.

Its Nashville location also happened to snag a spot on Bon Appetit’s list of America’s 50 best new restaurants for 2017. Needless to say, my curiosity was piqued.

There will be no getting around the comparisons to Lynn’s Paradise Cafe once Martin’s takes up shop. Lynn’s was, after all, an unmistakably original concept, the decor and atmosphere equal parts eccentric and whimsical. While it would be a mistake to attempt to emulate this atmosphere, I walked into Martin’s East End location hoping to gain a sense of authenticity.

When it comes to Martin’s food, I was generally pleased with what I tasted; the decor, on the other hand, couldn’t have been less original.

Martin’s Indian Springs location is massive; the paneled floors are shiny and filled with a mix of tables. Mint green metal stools add a pop of color to the otherwise wood encased space.

Service may be at the counter but the staff floating about the dining room are attentive and engaging. The walls are papered in a hodgepodge of generic decor – copies of signed photos of Willie Nelson; random sports paraphernalia; a handful of University of Louisville posters mixed in for good measure. License plates fill in the blank spaces, many from Kentucky, but all meaningless.

While the atmosphere is certainly family-friendly, it dashed my hopes that the spirit of originality would continue at the site formerly known as Lynn’s.

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The food at Martin’s isn’t so contrived. Martin’s prides itself in cooking everything daily, utilizing smokers and pits while eschewing freezers and microwaves. The tried-and-true low-and-slow cooking process pays off in its pulled pork; the meat was rich and juicy all on its own.

The pork is offered in several applications, as a sandwich ($6), platter style with two sides ($13), or atop its "notorious" redneck taco ($8.25).

Less taco and more loaded pancake, the redneck taco is built on a cornbread hoecake that supports a generous pile of pulled pork garnished with coleslaw and is drenched in Martin’s signature Jack’s Creek sauce. Each element was well seasoned, although the balance of hoecake, pork and slaw was off in our preparation – the slaw took over the plate.

The pitmaster combos present an opportunity to taste various meats in platters built for one to seven people. Sliced beef brisket is a standard on each compilation, including the kid brother sampler for one ($16), where I found Martin’s variation to be flavorful and lightly smoked, if not a bit dry.

The same could be said for the quarter chicken ($10), which presented us with a large, smoked bone-in breast that was parched for one of the five sauces on hand.

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The wings, however, were wonderfully tender and I found the Alabama white sauce they were dressed in to bear just the right amount of heat and tang.

In addition to the typical BBQ favorites, Martin’s has a small selection of burgers, sandwiches and tacos, including a fried catfish taco ($13) that offers an appealing flavor profile thanks to toppings of vibrant slaw, pickled jalapenos, and two different types of cheese. However, the filets of catfish were so thin they seemed to have disintegrated within the breading.

All the sides one expects to pair with BBQ are available at Martin’s, including an average, slightly disappointing mac and cheese; a bright broccoli salad studded with cranberries, nuts and green onions; overly salty green beans; and sweet, fried cornmeal hush puppies – the less obvious and most delicious side of the bunch.

Whether or not Martin’s will match the success Lynn’s enjoyed for so many years in the Highlands remains to be seen. However, there is little question that this BBQ joint is an ideal fit in Indian Springs.