If you're gonna run a headcase and a 15 sub you should probably just use the stock 15 crossover and put it in the headcase, but wire the W+/W- to a "Woofer out" jack on the headcase and then connect that off the headcase to the 15 sub.

Or you could do the reverse and do a "HF out" from the sub

I think the woofer only section for the 15 sub would be run when you were adding the 15 sub to a an existing cab.

On the truck... my Vlad335 15/6. And I just got my 800RB back from GK - still looks beat to hell but its got all new guts and damned if I didn't forget how much the amp kicks ass. Can't wait to hook up to the Vlad-Cab.

My rec: Always get a horn and always put it on an on/off switch unless you are absolutely certain you would never want to use it (100%) or that you will never sell the cabinet. The horn is very cheap to add and provides a lot of flexibility.

I figured I would share this for anyone who may be interested, it is a metric cutlist i used for a 12/6 with dado joints on all parts along with cross lapped joints on the braces.
All dados are based on 12mm ply not 12.7mm. (My birch measures an average of 11.89mm, if yours is 12.7mm this may not be 100% correct) all dado's are 3mm deep.
The main panels are cut to the exact length, the side braces will need some trimming, I left them extend fully to the shelf but that is an easy fix. The braces may appear long but this is to accommodate cross lapped joints for extra rigidity, hopefully.
Also the front stand off's are left long for easy adjustment, I'm not 100% sure if I will use these so each to their own.
I will try and upload a few screen shots of the model I used also to better explain the dado's.

Hope this helps someone. My cut parts have matched up well so please don't flame if there is a problem, as always measure twice, cut once.
D_G

Attached Files:

Hope this helps someone. My cut parts have matched up well so please don't flame if there is a problem, as always measure twice, cut once.
D_G

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Funny - I seem to have a short baffle board today... No matter how many times I cut the damned thing - it's still short! and of course my wood supplier is closed Sundays ... If it were the back I'd think about a trip to Home Depot... cr@p ...

Crap. I have a plunge router base for my Dremel but if I have to go bigger than 1/8" it means I have to buy or borrow a real router.

Click to expand...

If you dig through either thread 3 or 4 (late summer last year) I posted the same question so that I could do mine correctly. For me a year is a long time, so it might be worth checking. I know that GB does them by hand and just in the corners...

can i pair this with a 4 ohm dr bass 1580? and if i did this can i modify the dimensions so it will fit on the bottom?

also, if i don't play loud but want to utilize the low end of the fearb, would i be just as well off with a 15/6 if i still want lower frequencies but don't play really loud. So basically can i feel the bass at lower volumes?

It depends on what tuning you're using (e.g. are you expecting a loud F#0 or just B0?).

I wouldn't pair with the 1580; the 8" driver and the high crossover point will screw with your mids and the small box and insufficient port area will screw with your lows. I'd build a 15/6 or fEarb and then when you like it twice as much as the 1580, sell the 1580 and build another