Description

Excellent slab, face, and watergroove climbing over crisp granite with great friction in a beautiful mountain valley.

Paralleling (10), Ground Control (8+), Panthertown Knobs (9+) provide for some of the technically easiest climbing, but still should be treated with the utmost respect. Almost every route here gets an R rating. A fall on any route here could be nasty.

Getting There

From the parking lot, follow the old roadbed TR474, past Salt Rock overlook on your left and down the hill. After a few minutes take a right on Deep Gap TR449 until you encounter a pine grove on the left. Walk diagonally through to pine grove to a faint trail leading to the SE, ultimately intersecting TR486 to Granny Burrel Falls at the creek crossing. Cross Panthertown Creek continuing on Great Wall TR489, passing the Boy Scout shelter on the right, meandering into the woods. After a few minutes, the wall will be visible to the left. Find the trail to the base. This takes you to the face in the neighborhood of Camp Big Green, 5.11a, left of center.

P1: Climb directly up between two water grooves passing a #2 Camalot placementand five bolts to a bolted belay (a few 10 moves).P2: Continue up between the grooves, past five more bolts, and one white tricam placement, then up a steeper section to a belay on a tree ledge (sustained 10).Rap: Move Right and rappel from double bolts on the top of Jiffy Pop Queen....[more]Browse More Classics in NC

i've been rebolting also. the 1st pitch of paralleling is renewed, and the second pitch was already done so it is as safe as it will ever be. also there are now new bolts at both jiffy belays although i haven't cut out the old ones yet. i was running from rain and didn't stop to saw. they say there is no accounting for taste but i think green routes taste good.

interesting tim. hard to know what sort of shape they're in just looking at them. i may crank on a couple with a wrench and see what happens. in the mean time i replaced the first pitch bolts on jiffy and the first two on ditches. it's my intention to eliminate the rest of ditches and repair the holes as best i can. it's a bit of a squeeze job and detracts from the ambiance of the routes left and right. anyone who wants to do the original start to jiffy can still do that but climbing through the first two bolts of ditches makes a more manageable run out. there is a small cam placement between the bolts so there is no danger of a grounder assuming a competent belayer. the same cannot be said for the original jiffy start. i'll renew pitch two of jiffy sometime this early fall. i'll post it.

finished the jiffy renewal yesterday, but i still need to cut out the old bolts. all the new ones are good to go, both pitches. jiffy is a fine route and hopefully it will see a little more action. if you use the ditches start you'll find 10a climbing right off the bat but it mellows to 8+ to 9 till you get to bolt 3. from there all the way to the belay it's sustained 10 with a 10c crux. the second pitch is a good bit shorter. all 6 bolts occur in the first 80 feet or so. there are a couple smearing rests but no legit hand holds on the whole pitch.teetering hard 10. i use 1/2-2 1/2" cams.

the first pitch of campfire girls has new bolts, and if you are willing to adventure a bit on the left side of the water groove for pro, this is the best moderate pitch at big green and a good place to start to understand the expectations here. you'll need cams from 3/8" to 2". enjoy the new anchor. pitch 2 has not yet been renewed so keep that in mind.