1958 Evinrude 35HP Lark not turning all the way over

I am having some serious issues with my engine as of late...it kind of starts but will not kick on all the way. It is getting fuel to the fuel pump and it is coming out of the fuel pump. Check those last night. I am not however getting a spark from my plugs. I pulled them out with caps on them and saw NO blue spark or any spark for that matter. I did however feel like I was getting a little bit of a shock from holding on to the wires. I have been suggested to get new wires and new caps for the plugs since those are brand new....and see what I get then...Anyone else have a better idea or any other suggestions to this issue that I am currently having. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks one and all...and thanks for the warm welcome I will recieve to joining the BOC, its been a while, but I was still posting stuff on the old forums...lol. Thanks in advance for any advice or help provided.

It is a pull start, that is set up to do electric start...I tried pulling the rope and it does the same thing...I will put up the model number as soon as I go home...

Doesit crank over with the sparkplugs removed? YES
Are the sparkplug electrodes grounded when watching for a spark? Don't know what to ground it to or what part of the plug need to be grounded...?
Are the sparkplugs flooded with gas? No brand new plugs, no carbon, no anything on them
Mine will sometimes do this if the battery is low . Battery is fully charged up and go to go fish according to the charger...

Just curious as to what you mean by grounded...is that why it shocked me...and why would it shock through the rubber material?

A 58 model? Boy that has been around awhile. No wonder it doesn't want to start, its tired. All joking aside now, I am not quite sure what you are discribing. You said it won't turn all the way over! Do you mea n that it will not make a complete reveloution, or do you mean it just won't start although it spins ok. I will assume you mean it just won't start although it spins over ok. Does this motor have a distributor and points or is it an electronic ignition? If it has points make sure that they are opening and closing ok with the proper gap. If they are you could have a coil problem or a wire problem or a sparkplug problem. If you have electronic ignition, you could have a bad power pack, bad coil, bad wire, or bad sparkplug or a combinition of these. Give us a little more info.

It sounds like it is hydro locking. Ck all your connections from the batteru to the starter. If good then remove all the plugs and do a compression ck. I need these to try to determine what is wrong. an electrial problem is a process of elemination. I have seen them half shear a fly wheel key and do the same thing but lets test other things before we pull the fly wheel

electricity follows the path of least resistance. If you got shocked while turning it over while holding the wire then the wires are breaking down and allowing the electricity to arc through the insulation.

For lack of a better tool, get a screwdriver with an INSULATED handle, and without removing any installed plugs, remove wire from a plug and slide it onto the screwdriver(the metal end).
Now you need to remove remaining plug wires and ground them directly to the block.
Some short pieces of wire will do fine.
Hold the screwdriver shaft 1/2 inch from the engine block, away from any moving parts in a manner so you can observe the spark jumping the 1/2 gap while cranking.
Be sure you hold the insulated handle, if not you'll soon know why....
Before going any further you need to remove remaining plug wires and ground them directly to the block.
Some short pieces of wire will do fine.
This is necessary to prevent the motor from starting up while checking it!
Have your assistant at the switch to spin the motor(or yank on pull cord on smaller motors) while you look for a strong spark jumping across the 1/4 to 1/2 gap between screwdriver and block.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder.
When holding the screwdriver improperly a really good shock means about the same thing as a good spark, but only on that cylinder!

All thanks for everyone's help...no one rents those things out around here... no luck. That is why I have yet to post numbers up. I did however get an appointment scheduled with some guys to fix it up for me on Thursday. Hopefully it won't cost me an arm and a leg to fix it. I asked for a rough guesstimate and the guy was like it 50 to run it through the machine that figures out the problem...so we shall see...from there depending on the problem...Thanks again for all your help

Got a CK done..they both read the same at 60. I don't know if that is enough or just doesn;t matter as long as they are the same...please let me know if this helps out anyone who is helping me with my boat before I take it in on Thursday to pay the big bucks....

I just recently bought an extra 35 hp evinrude which I think is a 1958 or 59. It's been in storage for about 5 years and I was told that before it was stored it ran strong. It looks like it's in good shape but is missing the starter, but has the pull start. I also noticed that all the fuel was drained or ran out of it.

My question is, since it was stored so long, is there anything I need to pay special attention too when I try to start it? Is there a special way to prime it before I try to start it? And finall, does anyone have a manule for this year group they would be willing to part with or scan some pages from?

Thanks for the help.

Second one is a 1958 Evinrude 35 HP SN 35515. I have had this one for a year. Last year I ran it and had to replace the impeller, but when I run it for a mile or so it over heats and cuts off. Does anyone have any idea what this might be?