This year’s round up of the best places to eat and drink in
Piedmont includes several new entries. One of the trends in Piedmont seems to
be an increase in the number of casual restaurants that offer simple, yet well
made food, a good wine list and an informal ambience, all with an eye towards
keeping prices reasonable, a pretty good combination in my book. One of Italy’s
greatest strengths is ingredient-driven food. Few regions do it better than
Piedmont. There are plenty of places to splurge, too, but sometimes simpler is better.

Mother Nature is especially generous with Piedmont. She
graces the region with world-class wines and a host of raw ingredients that
provide the inspiration for the Piedmontese table. Local chefs have access to a
dizzying array of local meats, cheeses and vegetables that would make most of
their colleagues green with envy. Liguria isn't too far away for the things
that are missing, namely seafood and olive oil. But it is the mysterious,
elusive and super-expensive white truffle that takes Piedmont into the
stratosphere.

There is no better time to enjoy the bounty of Piedmont than
the fall, a time when so many fabulous things come together; the last few
leaves on the vines, the smell of autumn, the new vintage fermenting in the
cellars, the fog-drenched landscapes and of course the heavenly scent of white
truffles.

What follows are some of my favorite spots for food and wine
in Piedmont. It is not a comprehensive
list, but rather a collection of places I have personally been to many times
over the years. If possible, I suggest visiting Piedmont in late November. By
then, most of the tourists are gone and truffles are in peak season, which
means at their most perfumed and abundant.

Don't be surprised if you see young children in any of these
restaurants, even the most elegant. Of all the places I visit regularly, Italy
is without question the most family oriented and kid friendly, which means
parents don't have to sacrifice a great meal in order to be with the children
and the kids have an opportunity to be educated at the table.

Lastly, as I have written before, wine storage continues to
be an issue in Piedmont’s restaurants. I won't take up too much time or space
addressing my biggest pet peeve here, but suffice it to say readers should feel
no hesitation in sending back
bottles that have been damaged by heat. That is the only way Piedmont’s restaurateurs
will get the message. Taken as a whole, Piedmont lags the world’s other wine
producing regions by a significant margin
when it comes to wine service, and in particular storage. Eggs, butter,
cheese and bottled water? They are refrigerated, of course. What about a 150
euro bottle of Barolo with a 50-100% markup of pure profit that diners have
travelled from far and away to taste in its place of origin? Far too often these wines are treated with total disregard for the end consumer, the very person who supports
these establishments. How are the best bottles treated in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Napa
Valley and Champagne? Like priceless jewels that are the livelihood of those regions.

Let me be clear: Piedmont exists because of one thing and
one thing only; Wine. Without the wine industry there would be fewer jobs,
fewer restaurants, much less wealth and no tourism to speak of except for a few
weeks during the fall truffle season. When will Piedmont’s restaurateurs learn
to take care of their most valuable asset and most profitable asset? Suffice it
to say I have been served cooked and/or damaged wine in virtually every
restaurant in Piedmont, so it is very much caveat
emptor.

Still, I don't think there is anywhere better to be in the
fall than Piedmont. Barolo, Barbaresco and white truffles in a good year are as
good as it gets. The cool, foggy weather
and a good meal at one of Piedmont’s top spots will be more than enough to make
visitors start planning a return trip. Things can get a bit hectic during the peak fall season, so reservations are essential.

Antica Corona Reale, known simply
as Da Renzo, is a must during truffle season. Da Renzo is located in Cervere,
which is a bit of a drive from the Barolo zone, but closest to La Morra. The
food is terrific year round, but in the fall Renzo is the place to be. Proprietor
Gian Piero Vivalda makes the single greatest truffle dish in Piedmont; the
heart attack-inducing, poached egg in cocotte, essentially an egg poached in
butter and cream, then topped with shaved truffles. If there is one dish
visitors must experience at least once, this is it. Other great choices include
the Tortelli al Seirass and the Châteaubriand for two. Wild leeks and snails,
both local to Cervere, are not to be missed. I don’t go crazy for either frogs’
legs or tripe, but those who do swear by Da Renzo’s versions. Service is
exceptional. The wine list is well chosen, but storage is inconsistent and the
program overall remains the Achilles heel of this otherwise exceptional
Piedmont benchmark.

Antica Torre is another of Piedmont’s reference points. Located
just across the road from the Produttori del Barbaresco, Antica Torre is a hit
with locals, winemakers and tourists alike. The food is simple, honest and
presented with no makeup. Prices reflect the everyday, working class values of
another era, which will thrill travelers on a budget. Antica Torre’s wine list
is a bit Spartan and simple, but consistent with the setting. In the summer,
the outdoor seating is a nice plus.

Barolofriends, a newly opened wine bar in the center of
town, is one of the most exciting additions to the eating and drinking scene in
Piedmont. The brainchild of proprietor Paolo Annoni, Barolofriends is the
perfect place to stop by for an informal meal or glass of wine. Chef Imer
Pegoraro’s menu is rich in
tradition, often done with a few twists. Pegoraro spent several years with
Massimo Camia at Locanda del Borgo Antico, and it shows in dishes like the
vitello tonnato, which is unusually refined for a restaurant of this level. The
room is warm and inviting, while the food is delicious and reasonably priced,
all of which makes it easy to return. That is exactly what we did this past
summer. Both meals we had at Barolofriends were terrific. Best of all, the
kitchen is open all day, from 11am to 10pm, unusually flexible by Italian standards.

Tajarin with sausage ragù and pesto

Last Visit: July 2014

Centro Storico

Via Roma 6

12050 Serralunga d’Alba (CN), Italy

Tel. +39 0173 613 203

No trip to Piedmont is complete without a meal (or two!) at
Centro Storico. Proprietor Alessio Cighetti is larger than life, and so is a
night out at this iconic winebar in Serralunga’s historic center. Centro
Storico is distinguished by a wine list that will shock even the most seasoned
of travelers for its depth, especially considering the otherwise no frills
setting. Champagne is a strong suit, and my drink of choice here. Growers and grands marques are represented
with equal breadth. The simple menu usually consists of three/four choices of
appetizer, pasta, main and dessert, mostly leaning on the classics, and all
impeccably prepared. Centro Storico is a favorite among locals, so don’t be
surprised if you see one or more winemakers here on any given night. If the
homemade gelato is available (not usually on the menu) don’t miss it!

Chef/Proprietor Maurilio Garola is going through an
especially brilliant period at La Ciau del Tornavento. This is one of the most
beautiful dining rooms in the Langhe, especially during the day or in the
summer, when guests will be dazzled by the views. The cellar has always been
jaw dropping, but the food now is better than ever. Three recent meals have all
been superb. I prefer to stick with the classics, but La Ciau is one of the few
restaurants in Piedmont where diners will find just as much pleasure in some of
the more adventurous, creative choices that adorn the menu. Few people have
done more to support local wineries than Garolo. The extensive cellar at La Ciau
will leave visitors drooling. Let’s leave it at that. An extension to the cellar, which will include space to host visitors, should be completed this fall.

Timeless, elegant and classic. That is what comes to mind
when I think of Guido da Costigliole. Tucked away in the hills of Santo Stefano
Belbo, in the picturesque Relais San Maurizio, Guido is one of the meccas of
fine dining in Piedmont. Andrea Alciati and his partner Monica Magnini run
Guido with palpable enthusiasm and passion. The Alciati family has been at the
forefront of Piedmontese cuisine for several decades. Guido and Lidia Alciati,
Andrea’s parents, opened the celebrated Da Guido in Costigliole in 1961, long
before Piedmont and its wines were fashionable. Even back then Da Guido was one
of the most famous restaurants in Piedmont. Guido Alciati was famous for taking
huge positions in wines that would go on to become icons, like the Produttori del
Barbaresco's 1970s Riservas and Luciano Sandrone’s first Barolos. Upon
Guido Alciati’s passing his three sons went in different directions. Andrea
settled in at the Relais, not too far from the original Da Guido, while
brothers Ugo and Piero went on to open their version of Guido first at Pollenzo
and now in the Fontanafredda complex in Serralunga.

Diners will find a menu built on lighter, modern-day
interpretations of the classics, along with a few more inventive creations. The
extensive wine lists offer myriad choices of both local and international
wines. Readers can bring their own wines for a modest corkage fee, which is
rare in Piedmont. Even better, Guido will build tasting menus for diners who
would like to supply their own truffles.

Locanda del Centro is one of my go-to spots when I am in and
around Castiglione Falletto. The menu is written on chalkboard and leans
heavily on the classics, with a few twists. In the summer, the fried zucchini
flowers are a must. I also like the insalata russa quite a bit. The lasagna
with bufala mozzarella and zucchini I had recently was a nice break from the
mostly traditional fare. The Locanda’s wine list is small, but well chosen and
solid at this level.

Angelo and Maria Cristina Rinaudi have recently moved to La
Morra from Castiglione Falletto, where they ran the highly successful and
popular Le Torri for many years. Mangè is typical
of the new breed of restaurants that have begun to spring up in Piedmont. The
kitchen is open from late morning straight through dinner. Readers can expect a
small menu with an emphasis on the classics and very reasonable prices. On
Thursdays, Angelo’s father brings fresh seafood back from the market in Torino,
which makes for a nice break from the meat-heavy dishes that are so typical in
the Langhe. The wine list is pretty extensive for a small, informal restaurant.
Mangè is perfect for a simple, informal meal,
especially if keeping to a budget is a priority.

I have been eating at the Osteria dell’ Arco for longer than
I can remember. One of my favorites going back to the days when I had basically
no money, Osteria dell’ Arco remains one of Alba’s stalwarts. Diners will find
a menu heavy on the classics, and an excellent wine list in a simple,
traditional setting. I always feel the service could be a little warmer, but
that is a relatively small critique. Osteria dell’ Arco is a favorite among
Alba’s working professionals, so reservations are absolutely essential, even
for lunch. In my view, Osteria dell’ Arco captures the essence of what Italian
restaurants do better than any other – offer affordable, everyday food made
with uncompromisingly high quality standards at fair, working-class prices.

The Ceretto family operates two
restaurants in Alba, both in essentially the same space. Located on the
ground level of a historic building in the old city center, La Piola
specializes in mostly traditional dishes served in an informal setting. Piazza
Duomo occupies the upstairs level and is the showcase for Enrico Crippa’s
innovative, award winning cuisine.

The menu at La Piola is rich in the classics, but with
some twists that are quite welcome for visitors who want a break from
Piedmont’s typical fare. Ceretto wines are featured heavily, with the rest of
the list coming from Ceretto’s retail online wine partner. While the strategy
of this kind of vertical integration is appealing from a financial perspective,
the reality is that the list at La Piola lacks imagination. Given the high
quality of the food, La Piola would be far better off showcasing the best wines
of the region, but that does not appear to be the aim. Regardless, diners can
order from Piazza Duomo’s comprehensive wine list, which is what I suggest.
Service on the day I visited was exceptional and welcoming, something that is
not always the case in Piedmont.

A former monastery dating back to the days of Inquisition
in the 1600s, the Relais del Sant’Uffizio is a gorgeous hotel and restaurant
nestled in the rolling hills of Monferrato, just outside Asti, in the heart of
Barbera country. The restaurant was excellent on the two recent visits,
although the reality is that the overall quality of dining in Piedmont has
exploded over the last 20 years, such that the food at Sant’Uffizio today is
excellent, but has much more competition than it did years ago. The menu offers
a combination of classics along with a handful of more creative dishes, all
done with a modern, light touch. Visitors will find a small but well-chosen
list with plenty of good options. Service is professional and attentive.

A few years ago, the Bovio family sold the restaurant
Belvedere up until then a local icon, and moved
to their current location, just outside the La Morra town center. Ristorante
Bovio is smaller and more intimate than the Belvedere, and that is just fine.
The food is pretty similar to what it has always been, which is to say rich in
the classics. The wine list is extensive, but I wish the wines were kept and
served a little cooler. Service is warm, friendly and incredibly accommodating.
In other words, what hospitality is all about. Two recent dinners were
fabulous.

Il Centro, one of Piedmont’s timeless classics, is just as
fabulous as it has always been. The classics are slightly revisited in cooking
that is faithful to tradition but that also incorporates some twists. The crudo
appetizer is perfect for a warm, muggy day. All of the pasta and meat dishes I
tasted during my most recent visit were terrific. Il Centro has an extensive wine list, but my
preference is still to stick with young wines.
The Cordero family’s warmth and hospitality are those of another era. Readers
who want to visit an old guard reference-point should check out Il Centro.

La Coccinella will delight fans of classic, old-school
Piemonte cooking. Located in Serravalle Langhe, La Coccinella is convenient to
Serralunga and Monforte, but will require a bit of a longer drive from other
parts of the Barolo zone. The ambiance is homey, warm and inviting. This is
Piedmont comfort food at its best. Gems are sprinkled throughout the wine list.
You aren’t likely to see too many tourists at this haunt mostly frequented by
locals and those in the know.

Visitors who haven't been to Fontanafredda in a few years
might be a little shocked by the recent transformation that has recently taken
place. The vistors’ center looks more like something out of Napa Valley than
Piedmont. A well-stocked gift shop sells a vast selection of wine related books
plus wine and food items. The cafeteria-style restaurant serves simple fare in
an informal setting that borrows heavily from proprietor Oscar Farinetti’s
Eataly concept. Best of all, Fontanafredda is pretty much always open, making
it the prefect place to stop by for a quick bite if you are on the run, happen
to be in the neighborhood or haven’t made plans in advance.

Last Visit: November 2012

Other News

- I have removed the Boscareto resort’s La Rei from our list
simply because I have not eaten there since management made significant changes
that include a new chef, consultant chef and key front of the house staff. The
menu now is designed by Antonio Cannavacciuolo, one of Italy’s most visible
chefs and media stars.

- The Boroli family
has expanded the wine program at their Locanda del Pilone through their
partnership with LVMH, and now carry a large selection of wines from that
portfolio. It has been a few years since I last dined at the Locanda, but the property and dining room
are among the most idyllic in the Langhe.

- Antiné in Barbaresco has now reopened with a new chef, but
I have not been there yet.

- Massimo Camia closed Locanda del Borgo Antico and has set
up shop at his own place at Damilano. I have not been there yet.

- Piedmont icon Cesare Giaccone is said to be cooking back
at his original restaurant, but only for friends and with advance notice.

- Brothers Ugo and Piero Alciati have moved their version of
the family’s Guido franchise to Fontanafredda. I have not been there yet.

- The top rated restaurant in Piedmont by most guides
remains Ceretto’s Duomo in Alba, but I have not been in several years, hence
its exclusion here.