There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Approach notes

Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Guidebooks

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country.
This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.

Forrest Gump and Karmacoma have been re-climbed after the rockfall. Grades unchanged and rock is stable. Kafoozalem - 20/Aug/15

Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing. Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14

Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump? Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14

I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me? Mr Tickle - 19/May/12

I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all. Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09

Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress?
Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook. Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09