Join us and learn all about: Drowning, Watersafety, Surfing Injuries, Surfers Skin, Maori Surf Culture, Sustainable management of Surf Breaks, Waves under threat in Wellington ! Open for all interested; Medical Professionals, Surfers, Bodyboarders, Kite & Wind Surfers, Lifeguards and all other water sport fanatics! Paddle out with us and learn how to stay healthy, and improve your surfing experience!

“A call for the proper action on drowning resuscitation” was published in the August 2016 version of Resuscitation! This is a very important call for all providers, and a chance to update your knowledge on drowning resuscitation.

The Annual Surfing Medicine Conference is a state of the art medical conference delivering premium academic content in an innovative and engaging format. Captured in this video are impressions from the 2015 conference in Biarritz, France.

“Keep Surfing” – Riding the Eisbach

By Till Geimer

Where sitting out back means standing in line – Eisbach, Munich, Germany

No coastline in sight for 500km, nor surfable Ocean breaks within at least 1,100km. Yet there is still a thriving surf community in the heart of landlocked Europe – surfers riding waves every day in Munich. This is possible owing to a rapid river flowing through the center of the city which is amplified by a steep step in the riverbed and concrete blocks laid beneath.

Summer brings the crowds and spectators too!

This creates a stationary wave in an urban environment, giving Munich surfers the opportunity to ride 24/7, almost 365 days a year. There is always a rideable wave, with wave faces ranging from waist-to-chest high depending on rainfall, flow, and river levels. The visibility, accessibility, and consistency of the “Eisbach” wave has lead to a steadily increasing number of surfers of all ages and ability riding the break. Inevitably, overcrowding at times becomes an issue and can spoil the experience somewhat, but in this regard the Eisbach is no different to any other surfing break adjacent to an urban area.

Munich is one of the epicentres of river surfing and quite possibly the only place in the world were river surfing is happening in the very center of a city. As early as the 1970s people were already riding the wave in the “Englischer Garten”, a large inner city park. Back then, the waves were highly inconsistent and surfing only possible on certain occasions when the water flow was sufficiently strong to create an open wave face.

Not until ‘illegal’ modifications were performed by early Eisbach regulars did the wave take on its consistency and power seen nowadays. This involved rather large concrete works on the riverbed and the introduction of a wooden plank, placed in the water just in front of the wave to groom its face. Thanks to these modifications, you can rock up at the wave almost any day and find it working.

Surfing this wave feels a little awkward the first time you do it. The water comes from in front of you and rushes underneath your board instead of carrying you along. However, once you’ve got to grips with this, it feels just like wave riding in the ocean. The wave has a couple of bumps and a rippable wall sections so it’s perfectly suited for practicing aerials, hacks, tail slides, and cutbacks times a dozen. The quiver you need here is not exactly that you’d take with for charging big ocean swells. Typically, the boards ridden here have similarities to small wave summer shapes. They are generally higher volume, shorter (5’5″-5’10”), often quite wide, and have flatter rockers with fat squashed or fish tails.

Riding the Eisbach can pose some challenges for the uninitiated or unaware. This doesn’t prevent them from testing their luck too many times though! The wooden plank located right at the bottom of the face is covered by only a few cm of water; sizable concrete blocks lurk 30 cm below the surface just behind the wave, right where the washing machine spits you out after a wipeout; underwater turbulence can hold you down for just enough time to unnerve. So, although the wave looks benign judging on size alone, you have to keep your wits about you just as you might at your local reef. Partly because of these dangers, surfing the Eisbach was illegal until 2010.

Inland River Surf Community

The surfing community which developed around this landlocked wave stands testament to how the act of wave riding can draw people and sustain stoke, even if it’s ‘just a’ river wave.

An estimated 800 people regularly surf one of Munich’s stationary waves. There are some smaller, novice friendly, waves in the city as well such as Munich’s oldest river surfing spot, Floßlände. The community comprises everyone from the ‘rip-tear-lacerate’, skate-inspired grommet to the 60+ years drop-knee cutback, trim-glide logger. Numerous surf shops have developed over time. Festivals celebrating all aspects of surf culture, music, art, movies and shaping workshops take place every year. The wave has even peeked the curiosity of high-profile visiting surfers like Rob Machado, Gabriel Medina, Donovan Frankenreiter, and Garrett McNamara.

Surfboard companies dedicated to river surfing such as PT Surfboards or Buster Surfboards have had their origin here, starting off by producing shapes especially suited for the Eisbach. But it’s not only the local shapers who manufacture river surfing equipment, Portugal-based Semente and Fatum Surfboards offer specialized designs developed with the input of Eisbach regulars.

Night session at the Stationary Wave Championships 2015

An official contest scene has not developed around the wave, since surfing here is still only ‘semi-illegal’, but a reasonable number of unofficial jam sessions have taken place. In place of being an official contest venue, the Eisbach has inspired the development of the “European Stationary Wave Riding Championship“, which takes place annually on a completely artificial wave, engineered using the Eisbach as a guiding principle, set-up at Munich airport. So, keeping all this in mind, it’s probably fair enough to say that Munich is the only surf city 600 km away from any ocean!

Artificial Waves – The future of surfing?

Whilst the Eisbach, as well as other stationary river waves, aren’t necessarily the blueprints for recent developments like Surf Snowdonia or other wave pools/wave gardens, the idea of riding waves removed from the ocean, as has been the case here in Munich for decades, surely fueled the imagination of engineers in developing the artificial wave technology.

As competitive surfing progresses increasingly towards professionalization, these stationary waves will provide a uniform, reproducible, and predictable training ground for elite surfers to practice highly technical manoeuvres over-and-over to perfection. In fact they are seen as an integral part of surfing finally becoming an Olympic sport. Regardless of your opinion on the ever present march towards professionalism and concomitant commercialization of surfing, it seems the artificial wave is here to stay, and has the potential to considerably enhance the performance level of surfers from countries traditionally seen as ‘non-surfing’ nations.

Getting back to Munich and the Eisbach. Not only is it a practice ground for cutbacks or aerials, it’s also a place to go surfing with friends and be stoked because this feeling is not limited exclusively to surfing ocean waves. No one has a monopoly on stoke, there are many ways to experience it, and for us river wave surfers in Munich, it can be found right in the middle of the city come summer, with crowds, or winter in two degree water and snow on the banks.

About-the-Author

Till Geimer is a surfer and doctor living in Munich, Germany. He works as a dermatology resident at the Department of Dermatology & Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich. He likes to spend as much free time as possible riding waves at his local spot, the Eisbach, or travelling the world in search of good surf.

We congratulate Jeremy Flores with two victories on one day. Congratulations on the title in one of the world’s most dangerous waves, in a field filled with talented professionals. Secondly, congratulations on winning the Tahiti Pro while wearing a helmet. This is the beginning of a cultural change that we strive to achieve in the surf sport: keeping the surfer healthy and safe. We will keep informing surfers, so they can make their own decisions on safety issues and injury prevention. Jeremy Flores made a decision to wear a helmet, and immediately got nicknamed “helmet man”. He was informed on the risks by trial and error. He suffered a horrific head injury on the 22nd of June during the Fiji Pro at Cloudbreak this year: two facial fractures, and a contusion in his brain. From our recent research, we learned that surfers who have suffered from an injury, change their safety behaviour. Everyone makes decisions on safety for themselves. Jeremy “the helmet man” Flores already did.

Photo right: Jeremy Flores celebrating his after taking off his helmet

Conference 2015 – CME Accreditation

The European Association of Surfing Doctors (EASD) is once again delighted to announce that:

The ‘4th Annual Surfing Medicine Conference‘ is accredited by the European Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education (EACCME) to provide the following CME activity for medical specialists. The EACCME is an institution of the European Union of Medical Specialists (UEMS). The ‘4th Annual Surfing Medicine Conference’ is designated for a maximum of (or ‘for up to’) 16 hours of European external CME credits.

Through an agreement between the European Union of Medical Specialists and the American Medical Association (AMA), physicians may convert EACCME credits to an equivalent number of AMA PRA Category 1 Credits™. Live educational activities, occurring outside of Canada, recognized by the UEMS-EACCME for ECMEC credits are deemed to be Accredited Group Learning Activities as defined by the Maintenance of Certification Program of The Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Canada.

By Naja Enevold Olsen

Q1: We’ve heard about Leland the doctor, tell us more about Leland the surfer? Do you venture out into big surf or take on Pipeline yourself?

A: Yes, I am an avid surfer myself, I surf almost every day. I have even been known to surf some relatively big waves (maybe 10-20 foot faces). Nowadays though, I tend to shy away from the main crowded breaks (I do try to surf Sunset and Pipeline each year), but I have my own uncrowded spots close to home which I go to mostly. It’s pretty challenging surfing big waves by yourself, which I do often, but after 20 years on the North Shore I know the conditions pretty well. Although, this doesn’t exempt me from getting sent back humbly to the beach by Mother Nature once in a while.

I also take my kids out to the many beautiful gentle breaks we have here in Hawaii. Adam is 9 and Sarah is 6, they both surf in the Menehune contest circuit here. Nowadays the kids start pretty young.

Q2: It’s well known that doctors make terrible patients! I can personally testify to this. I ended up with a huge sea ulcer from a non-healing (eh…poorly tended to) foot wound a few years back in Australia. I also developed otitis eterna, and later ruptured my tympanic membrane. Yet, do you think I stayed out of the water? Eventually, both infections deteriorated, and I had to relent. Antibiotics, analgesia, patched-up with waterproof dressings, repeatedly surfing…inevitably, I ended up a little worse-for-wear. Sometimes you have to stay ashore, rest up, and heel. Well, at least for a few days!

I imagine you’ve had your fair share of cuts and bruises, etc. Have you sustained any serious injuries from surfing? Do you practice what you preach and follow your own advice?

A: I think we as surfers will often push ourselves to the limit so we can be in the water as much as possible. I remember surfing on a medium-size North Shore day several years ago when my front foot slipped off my board during drop in, and I heard a POP. Next came the excruciating pain from a torn hamstring. I continued to surf a few more waves and hobbled to the beach. I sustained a huge contusion to the posterior thigh. As the swell was still up the next day, I duct taped the area and paddled back out, all for a few more waves. Not the advice I would have given to a patient, but I think you’re right, we are often bad patients!

Q3: You’ve been a contest doctor for numerous events, e.g. the Pipe Masters, for nearly two decades now. Witnessing the sport’s progression, in terms of athleticism, e.g. aerials are becoming almost commonplace and the envelope is continually being pushed in big wave settings, this must have heralded some novel injuries? What do you think we can expect to encounter, potential hazards, management issues, etc., as surfing continues to develop? And do you observe any change in the severity of injuries down through the years?

A: I think the number of lower extremity injuries has increased with the new moves, including knee and ankle injuries. Also cuts and lacerations. Surfers who achieve this level of performance are highly skillful, and admittedly can often avoid injury, but this is not always the case. Many aerial maneuvers are often done during windy conditions, and sometimes this will blow the board out of position, placing the surfer in more precarious landing situations.

As far as other developments, such as the advances in the big wave arena, it’s truly amazing to see the paddle resurgence across the world, with committed athletes putting on spectacular performances. Surfers now fly all over the planet chasing storms, trying to raise the bar each time they go out into huge surf. It’s important to remember that they not only have the physical abilities to do so, but they also possess another essential component, that psychological preparedness and extreme desire to go out and pith themselves against massive waves. I recommend checking out “The Surfers’s Mind” by Richie Bennett for more on this. I find this mental aspect intriguing. However, I’m also glad to see more of these gladiators slowly but surely heeding safety calls and wearing flotation devices in giant surf.

The good, the bad, and the bizarre…I imagine you’ve seen it all! Surf-related injuries can be quite diverse. Which story/case has represented…

Q4: …the most serious situation and challenging in terms of management? And what was the outcome in this case?

A: Fortunately my work has been under the relatively stable environment of professional surfing events. We have the contest directors looking at the surf conditions daily and deciding whether to run events or not. We also have the water patrol lifeguards as part of the team. I call them the ‘Guardian Angels’, they can rescue an injured victim out of treacherous surf and have them back on the beach in 60 seconds, theoretically. And of course the professional surfers themselves, being great athletes gives them a the better chance of escaping serious injury.

I think that all of these contributions have made our jobs much easier over the years.

The unfortunate incident of Tuhiti Haumani this last winter was a really serious and dangerous situation which occurred just after the completion of the Volcom Pipe Pro. I was not directly involved, as the event had just finished at about noon this day. That afternoon the surf and wind came up extremely fast and out of an unusual direction, creating particularly hazardous and atypical conditions at the Pipeline area. A number of surfers went out including Tuhiti, he reportedly was hit on the head by his board and knocked unconscious. A number of the professional surfers and lifeguards rushed out to get to him in very difficult wind and rising surf conditions. They finally reached him, but he had been underwater for several minutes. The strong winds created havoc for the nine or so surfers trying to bring him ashore, it was becoming like a river flowing out to near the 3rd reef at Pipeline, a distance of probably ¼-½ mile or more. They lost his body at one point, but were able to recover him again. Finally, they got him to the beach, performed CPR, but no pulse was initially detectable. They did eventual get a pulse in the ambulance and transferred him to the hospital in critical condition. I had just returned to the event site to pick up a few more of things, only to hear what had just occurred from a number of the surfers who had been involved in the rescue, all were very distraught. After several weeks on life-support in the hospital ICU, I understand Tuhiti was repatriated to Tahiti with a tracheostomy tube.

Q5: …your most rewarding in terms of implementing a favourable outcome? And the most outrageous, just-plain-weird, case you’ve witnessed?

A: I feel that rehabilitating the surfers, helping them to overcome their injuries and continue to surf and compete is the best thing we do as Sports Med Physicians. The 2012 Pipe Masters, when Josh Kerr sustained a neck injury following a big over-the-falls wipeout, thankfully had a positive outcome. We brought him to the medical area, evaluated him, and sent him for imaging to clear C-spine injury. He returned to us afterwards and our team worked on him repeatedly with massage and manipulation. He was subsequently able to reenter the competition and continued winning heat after heat, even making it all the way to the finals against Joel Parkinson, the eventual Pipe Masters Winner and World Champion. We are very proud of our part in helping Josh attain that result at one of the World’s most prestigious surfing events.

Q6: Do you have a few useful tips for surfers, in general, in order to stay safe in the waves?

A: Always study and keep an eye on the prevailing conditions, know what you’re getting yourself into. Make sure you understand the dynamics of the break, and know how to get back to shore in case something happens. Know before you go!

Q7: Lastly, for how many more years are we likely to see you providing your expertise at North Shore contests?

A: I have been lucky enough to be attending physician at every Pipe Masters and Pro event since 1997. Wow, time goes by so fast! I still enjoy every moment covering these and other Hawaiian surfing events. It’s a great privilege to be a part of professional surfing. People don’t always realize that there is long season of North Shore surfing events beginning around late October and going all the way through to March. It takes commitment to cover these events, but as mentioned, I really do enjoy working on them. I still love my job as a Family Physician on the North Shore as well. I want to mention that we have a team of health professionals who make up the Sports Med Team for WSL Hawaiian events, working as a group to catering for the needs of the competitors and the events. We have Doctors, Chiropractors, Therapist, Trainers, and other allied healthcare providers. We have students from all across the world who inquire each year about coming over to help us, and many actually do make the trip to be a part of our Sports Med team. Each year the group develops a great rapport, just about everyone walks away with fond memories of contributing to the safe and successful running of events like the Triple Crown.

So back to your question: I feel just as inspired now as I did 17 years ago, and I don’t have any intentions of retiring soon. I love this job, and hope to be around for another 17 or more! I welcome the EASD and its members to come experience the Hawaiian Winter Surf Contests firsthand, we will be happy to show you how we do it here in paradise!

It has been my pleasure, Mahalo and Aloha!

Read Part I of “Pipe Dreams – An interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao” here.

Naja Enevold Olsen MD is a surfer and doctor living in Aarhus, Denmark. She is Deputy Editor | Contributor Articles | EASD Marketing and Communications Team and has recently represented her country at the International Surfing Association (ISA) World Surfing Games 2015 in Nicaragua.

By Naja Enevold Olsen

Pipeline has long held a formidable reputation in the surfing world. Its picture-perfect, elliptical barrels belie the fearsome reality of the reef below. When Pacific groundswell detonates on the shores of Ehukai, the feats of surfing athleticism on display can be spellbinding, especially when the world’s elite rally to put on a show at events such as the Pipe Masters. Threading Pipe’s pristine tubes with success requires walking that fine line between triumph and disaster; a foot out of place, a hasty shift of weight to the rail, can determine whether a surfer emerges to glory or potentially meets their maker among coral crags and recesses below. Either way, behind the scenes, a talented team of health professionals are on hand to provide medical support to competitors.

Q1: It seems as if things took off around 1997, after you met two of the then key players within the ASP and Triple Crown of Surfing, Bernie Baker and Randy Rarick. Tell us more about how you came to be involved and why this kind of role appealed to you?

A: My work with professional surfing began after moving to Hawaii with a goal of practicing on the North Shore of Oahu. I had been accepted to the Family Practice Residency program at the University of Hawaii, and had met and treated several surfers already during my training. Upon completion in 1997, I started practicing with a medical group who opened an office for me in Haleiwa. The North Shore is a small community, everyone knows each other, so I approached Randy and Bernie about providing medical care at the events and they said ‘sure’. That year I also began covering the Triple Crown of Surfing. In addition, I was asked by then ASP CEO Graham Stapelberg to cover the Makaha World Longboard Championships. Back then the Greville Mitchell Surfing Foundation were a sponsor of the ASP, this included providing sponsorship for a physician and chiropractor at each WCT event. I have been involved with professional surfing ever since. To this day, I still love every moment working with the surfing community. I was lucky to have been invited to provide medical support at events in California, Australia, Japan, Europe, South Africa, and Tahiti. Obviously, it is not a full time job, but has been a great complementary adjunct to my medical practice here on the North Shore.

Q2: You have worked along side many different teams of water patrol/jet-ski rescue operators, lifeguards, and contest doctors at numerous events such as the Pipe Masters. Teamwork is a key component and you’ve worked with Dr.Clay Everline MD over the years, and more recently with Dr.Terry Farrell DO, both of which contribute to the EASD. What would you say are the attributes of a good Surf Doc?

A: I think the most important thing is to be readily available, and having an intimate understanding of the needs of the surfers and the surfing events. Over the years, we have developed a program which caters to the specific needs of surfing athletes, ranging from the professional level to amateur. Today, our event medical support and our Surfing Sports Med Program here on the North Shore is, I feel, one of the best.

Q3: Down through the years you have been involved as event doctor in many professional surfing contests. Is there a particular story/case/experience that left an impression on you? Something that has perhaps stuck with you?

A: I’ve got lots of stories, here are a few:

I think one of the most admirable traits about surfers is their passion and determination to be in the waves. I remember having to stitch up one competitor twice in one day! He had cut his leg, and ruptured his eardrum, but made it through his heat. He went out again, yet this time he hit his head and sustained a big gash to the forehead. Unfortunately, that was his last surf of the day.

During a recent Pipe Masters, the first day was huge 8-12 foot surf, we were all on edge watching nervously at these surf gladiators out there tackling these monster barrels. Suddenly, we were called down to the water’s edge to attend an injured competitor who had dislocated his shoulder. Fortunately, we were able to put the shoulder back in place right away on the beach (not an easy thing to do with a crowd glued to your every movement). A huge crowd had gathered on the beach to watched and live TV were broadcasting what was going on. Just as we had heard the clunk of his shoulder going back in, he asks us, “Is it in?”, I replied, “Yes it’s in!”. Next thing I know, he’s up and saying “Okay, I’m going back out”. We all just looked at each other in disbelief. Before we could say anything he’d started running back to the ocean, with the crowd cheering him on, television cameras rolling! Unfortunately, several minutes later he came back in, with (no surprises) the same shoulder dislocated.

I have been fortunate to have seen nearly all of the world championship titles crowned over the years, a few at Sunset Beach and most at Pipeline. It is always great to see the title race come down to the final event of the year. The Kelly Slater and Andy Irons showdowns were always the most epic battles of sheer talent and courage. The year the world title came down to AI and Kelly’s finals at the Pipe Masters was truly spectacular, an epic seesaw battle in the final heat of the year. To watch the crowning of the world championship in that fashion was a real treat to behold.

I remember the first year I went to Teahupoo the swell came up very quickly at the Tahiti Pro Trails. The event organizers were ready to send out the trialist into massive barreling waves. We waited in the channel until the mid-morning for Andy and Bruce Irons to arrive from the airport. A few guys had been catching waves here and there but when Bruce and Andy paddled into the line-up, it was a whole different show, they gave the most incredible big wave performance at Teahupoo that year. It was amazing to see the performance in person.

Q4: This year’s Billabong Pipe Masters was held in honour of former World Champion and Hawaiian pro-surfer, Andy Irons, who tragically passed away in 2010 at 32 years of age. What would you say has changed, if any changes are evident, in professional surfing in the wake of his tragic death?

A: I think if anything good can be said about the tragic early loss of Andy Irons it is that Professional surfing does do more testing of random and suspicious athletes under WADA guidelines. Pro Surfing is a relatively ‘clean’ sport, it is the responsibility of those of us who oversee the sport to keep it this way. Andy was one of the greatest competitors and performers in surfing history, we hope his early demise will be a reminder of what devastation both illicit and performance-enhancing drugs can potentially do to a person.

We just completed the Pipe Women’s and Jr Pro event last month, it is always great to see the women as well as the new school of young Junior surfers. Congrats to Keala Kennelly for coming out of retirement to win the Women’s event. Also, it’s a real treat to see the young guns really charging at the Jr Pro. This year the final was a real “nail biter”. Josh Moniz had a solid lead throughout, until Benji Brand caught a nice barrel to take the lead. Then, with less than 20 seconds left, Josh caught a very average left, and punted a massive backside air reverse 360 as the final horn sounded. This was exactly the manoeuvre Josh needed to clinch the win, and he did, what an absolute clutch performance! In my opinion, this type of surfing, with acrobatic, aerial manoeuvres on demand, is the most significant change to the sport of competitive surfing in recent years, and will carry performance surfing into the future.

Tune in next week to catch Part II of our interview with Hawaiian Surf Doc, Dr.Leland Dao.

Naja Enevold Olsen MD is a surfer and doctor living in Aarhus, Denmark. She is Deputy Editor | Contributor Articles | EASD Marketing and Communications Team and has recently represented her country at the International Surfing Association (ISA) World Surfing Games 2015 in Nicaragua.

Professional Medical Support Teams for Athletes

Increasing professionalism in surfing has widespread implications, not only for surfers, but also for the health professionals who look after these athletes at contest events. Dr.Leland Dao DO discusses this issue and highlights the key role played by medical support teams in the above clip.

“As the world’s largest and leading collective of medical professionals in surfing the European Association of Surfing Doctors (EASD) is actively contributing to and defining standards for surfer welfare. By connecting health professionals representing all medical specialties with a passion for surfing and the ocean, the EASD seeks to share knowledge, expertise, and experience with the global surf community. In a fast developing global surf community, the EASD’s quest is to “Keep the surfer healthy and safe” through numerous activities, such as: treatment in day-to-day practice, serving as contest medical personnel in both professional and amateur surfing arenas, delivering training courses for medical lays and health professionals alike (Surf Life Support™), conducting scientific research work and publication, defining evidence-based standards within the specialty and the sport at large, and convening the Annual Conference in Surfing Medicine where health professional from all over the world convene. Share the passion? See you on one of the various EASD events and in the water!”