Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Another Look at The One and Only, The Only on King

Another Look at The One and Only, Only on King

Nov 23rd 2016: Approaching its 10th year, TOOK (The Only on King), with its
fully realized farm-to-table philosophy, devoted acknowledgement of the local
terroir and support of local farmers and producers, was the personification and
outstanding archetype of the virtuous up-to-the-minute Ontario restaurant.
According to several sources the landmark TOOK has ceased operations. The
restaurant will be missed by its legions of fans. We wish Paul Harding and
staff best wishes in their future endeavours.

BY BRYAN LAVERY

In its eight year, The Only on King, with its fully realized farm-to-table
philosophy, devoted acknowledgement of the local terroir and support of local
farmers and producers, remains the personification and outstanding archetype of
the virtuous up-to-the-minute Ontario restaurant.The restaurant’s kitchen, led
by Paul Harding is a self-proclaimed “labour of love.” When Harding is not
chained to the stove, he and his culinary team continue to find new ways to integrate the locavore
ethic into all aspects of “The Only”.

Harding began preparing family meals in his youth and
developed a passionate enthusiasm for cooking. After high school, Harding moved
to Toronto to attend George Brown College. Harding worked in Toronto at
Café Societa and Michelle's Brasserie, honing his skills and was later employed
as the chef de partie at Auberge du Pommier and the much heralded JOV Bistro,
an internationally acclaimed neighbourhood bistro in its heyday.

The difficulties and disciplines of local food procurement
and executing an ever-changing daily menu with a deep appreciation of the
seasonal palate has been evidence of the kitchen’s continuing dedication.
And it needs to be just that, to keep up with the demands and disciplines of an
ever-changing daily menu.

This style of farm-to-table menu is unique by London standards and
something that very few chefs/restaurateurs would be in a position to execute
with the kind of success that Harding has achieved. The menu is
distinctive, accessible and highlights the best local products and ingredients
available. Believe me this is no easy feat – it is a very labour-intensive,
hands-on approach given the traditionally slim profit margins in this
style of restaurant.

The cooking repertoire emphasizes the traditions of classic
French and Italian cuisine and the aesthetics of modern British cuisine.
Located in a historic building and former dairy on King Street in the London
downtown dining district, the restaurant has a welcoming character with just
that right amount of off-the-cuff insouciance that often comes with success.
The conversational hum can be loud when the restaurant is hopping – which is
most nights.

Incidentally, “The Only” was voted number 6 of “Canada’s Best
New Restaurants in 2008” by enRoute magazine. It has lived up to its early
accolades and the kitchen does not rest on its laurels. “The Only” is
collaborative by nature and there have been many events where “The Only”
has partnered with other culinary notables like: Victor Barry of Splendido,
Vineland’s Tawse Winery and Nick and Nat 's Uptown 21", a gourmet hot spot
in Waterloo. A collaboration with Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth
of Edulus restaurant in Toronto (which was voted number 1 of “Canada’s Best New
Restaurants in 2012” by enRoute magazine) was a much talked about sold-out
success.

Dinner at “The Only” on King begins with a basket of warm,
white-linen-wrapped house-made bread accompanied by long, crisp,
melt-in-your-mouth breadsticks and a pot of salty, creamy butter. In keeping
with their philosophy of local food procurement, flour, grains and legumes are
sourced from Mike Mathews, owner of the historic Arva Flour Mills.

The list of local producers that “The Only” supports is
extensive. Farben Farms is Harding’s choice for Berkshire Pork raised in
a natural environment with no additives, hormones or drugs. Another producer and culinary farmer,
Lo Maximo Meats is an outgrowth of Spence Farms, a 5th generation family farm
located in Chatham- Kent. Paul and Sara Spence’s Lo Maximo Meats offers
traditionally raised beef, pork, chicken, goat, lamb and eggs with no hormones
or steroids, aged and flash frozen by a local abattoir and sold at regional
Farmers’ Markets but with a Latin American sensibility.

The Only on King’s classic Boudin (white sausage) of
chicken has become a delicious signature dish, on this occasion it was
served with a fried egg, Swiss chard and garlic sauce. Our charismatic
waiter, Margeaux Levesque, gave me a binder with a dossier on candidates for my
dinner entitled “From Our Family Farm To Your Fork” – “Meet Your
Chicken!” There was a dizzying array of potential contenders and all had
lived a happy life on the Spence family farm where they “had the opportunity to
roam in an open area with fresh air, sunshine, bugs, grass and weeds to feed
on”. The information provided included: date of birth,
markings/distinguishing characteristics, likes, dislikes and other personal
information that included questionable hobbies and diet.

In addition to Harding’s often ironic sense of humour he is
proficient at butchering and making many house-made specialties: bacon,
sausage, terrines, galantines, pates and confits. Charcuterie, once considered
the dominion of bourgeois cooking, was practically a lost art until the
emergence of the farm-to-table movement and the tattooed hipster chef.
Butchering, poaching, braising, sautéing, and sauce-making are the
fundamental skills the kitchen employs to attain their objective:
superb taste.

“The Only’s” kitchen has an aptitude for cooking
lesser-known cuts of meat to great versatility. I have many memories of organic
flat-iron steak, braised shin and grilled organic beef heart cooked to
perfection. Simple sauces at this restaurant accentuate flavour elevating a
good piece of meat or fish to a superior one. An appetizer that the
kitchen turned into an entrée of golden-brown, FisherFolk-sourced tuna
meatballs, were braised in tomato with olives, capers and pine nuts,
accompanied by knock-out gnocchi.

Guests are
allowed to bring their own wine for a corkage fee. The wine list
is interesting and varied featuring good quality VQA's. There are
always several house made seasonal cocktails with a varied selection
of bottled and draft beer. The restaurant is a supporter and proponent of Food
Day Canada and is listed in Where to Eat in Canada.

Hardingplays to all his strengths with a tight grasp
on the tenets of terroir and sustainability. Chef’s culinary viewpoint and
cooking repertoire continue to astound while drawing farm-to-table enthusiasts,
to the intimate 40-seat dining room. If you are looking for your inner
gastronome this is the ticket.

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Ontario Culinary Tourist

I am a
writer, culinary columnist and food and social media editor in London and
Toronto, Ontario. A chef, former restaurateur and hospitality consultant with
over thirty years in the industry, my work has appeared in a variety of print
and on-line publications. I also freelance written editorial and visual content
for tourism and corporate clients.