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A journey without borders through Spain and Portugal

"Madrid is one of the most vibrant and entertaining cities of Europe. For that reason, I have my second home there, in the best location, facing the Prado Museum. I love old and intact cities, the heritage of humanity, like Toledo and Cáceres, and in the meantime enjoying the tranquility of yesterday and the pleasures of today out in the country. And I love heading down south crossing the border in a zigzag to discover a nearby paradise, a kingdom of biodiversity. Two countries in a single journey, full of secrets and new experiences which I am delighted to unveil to and share with you."

To give you inspiration, Relais & Châteaux presents the Routes du Bonheur: suggestions for travel itineraries that you can fully personalise according to your wishes and the experiences you would like to discover. Our consultants are available to help customise your route and assist you in making reservations at our properties. It is up to you to reserve any recommended activities on-site or nearby that might interest you.
*Total price provided for information only, based on accommodation for two people in a double room for the number of nights per property as indicated on this page, exclusive of recommended activities, properties that cannot be reserved online and restaurants.

Madrid -
Spain

Restaurant in town. The Chef Óscar Velasco creates dishes featuring fish and shellfish from the Costa Brava, exceptional vegetables like young Maresme peas, or delicious Morella truffles, and his flagship creations, including crispy suckling pig from Segovia. The impressive cheese board is another highlight. Velasco’s cuisine is the embodiment of a culinary philosophy that is both traditional and contemporary, with a wild flourish. In the dining room, the Maître de Maison, Abel Valverde, and the sommelier, David Robledo, offer unique, stylish service – the prelude to a gourmet feast that will truly delight the senses.
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Madrid -
Spain

Restaurant in town. Located in the district of Salamanca, just minutes from the capital’s main shopping streets, Ramón Freixa Madrid has a peaceful inner garden courtyard, which is perfect for al fresco dining and enjoying an aperitif in the open air. The Spanish Chef Ramon Freixa is one of the brilliant leaders of Mediterranean cuisine. Thanks to his imagination, daring and humour, he goes beyond the Mediterranean flavours to take them to a new dimension. His signature dishes include a study of a tomato, an autumn sequence around black truffle (tuber melanosporum), hare royale, lacquered shoulder of lamb or a lobster micro menu.
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Madrid -
Spain

Restaurant in town. Originally a private club, El Club Allard has preserved its unique atmosphere that provides everyone with the feeling of living a privileged moment. From the exterior, nothing indicates that Casa Gallardo, a modernist building built in 1908 by Frederico Arias Rey, houses one of Madrid’s most sophisticated restaurants. The menus conceived by Dominican chef Maria Marte, who learned her trade in the establishment, are a genuine voyage for the taste buds. The dishes follow one after the other, creating surprises, such as the intense sea rice, an illusion of rice prepared with squid, or the poetic composition of double-textured cheese with guava sorbet.
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Madrid -
Spain

Restaurant in town. A few steps from the center of Madrid, the Sandoval brothers present you with a culinary voyage that is far from conventional. Mario, Coque’s chef, experiments with innovative techniques such as the hydrolysis of an egg, the study of vegetable DNA and the extraction of polyphenols from wine. The unique and delicate flavours recall souvenirs of the past, a landscape — relying on the palate and nose, but also touch and imagination. Beginning in the wine cellar with Rafael, the sommelier, then continuing to the kitchen, the final touch is achieved with the dining room whose decor bears the signature of the prestigious architect Jean Porsche.
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Madrid -
Spain

Hotel and restaurant in town. The immaculate façade of the Heritage Hotel stands proudly in one of the most elegant districts of the Spanish capital. The listed building, built at the beginning of the 20th century and decorated in a belle-époque style, today houses a hotel that tastefully marries classicism with the urban environment. Designer Lorenzo Castillo has created a warm decor of lacquered wood, polychrome marble and handmade wallpaper, which serves as a showcase for a magnificent collection of European antiques and artwork dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. In much the same way, chef Mario Sandoval, at the helm of Haroma Restaurant, elevates the finest ingredients through his eclectic and sophisticated cuisine.
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My artistic wanderings

Large museums: El Prado, Thyssen, Reina Sofía and the National Archeological Museum, recently renovated and converted into a museum of the 21st century. Exhibitions at El Retiro: Palacio de Velázquez, Casa de Vacas and Palacio de Cristal. Emerging art at La Fresh Gallery. Thematic museums, including the Museum of Romanticism and the Sorolla Museum. And three that are secret or almost: the Descalzas Reales, a 16th century convent in the middle of the city, with its orchard, Titians and Rubens; San Antonio de los Alemanes with frescoes of Lucas Jordán, Carreño and Francisco Ricci; San Antonio de la Florida with the famous frescoes of Goya.

Secrets of the authentic Madrid

Two unique stores on El Rastro, the funky and authentic “portobello” of Madrid. In the L. A. Studio, original vintage furniture and special designs, a place appreciated by trendsetters, decorators and film makers such as Pedro Almodóvar. Photography lovers agree, Fotocasión is the place.

Golden fashions

Manolo Blanik, Ángel Schlesser, Loewe, Bulgari, Versace, Jimmy Choo… all of the top Spanish and international designers have stores between the calles Serrano and Ortega y Gasset.

On the route

The two cities of Toledo

Fortified on a crag and defended by the River Tajo which surrounds it like a moat, Toledo seems like an island in the middle of the steppe. Wandering around it, the medieval city is a labyrinth with ten gates, enclosing almost one hundred important monuments: Muslim, Jewish and Christian. Among my favorites: the mosque of Cristo de la Luz, the synagogues of El Tránsito and Santa María la Blanca and The Burial of Count Orgaz, the deservedly famous painting of El Greco. Before all of this, it was in the plains. The excavations are bringing to light this other Toledo which was the capital of the Visigoths’ kingdom, the largest urban development scheme of the 7th century in all of Western Europe. In the future, the main discoveries will be exhibited in an avant-garde museum being designed by Mansilla and Tuñón, who were also the architects of our Restaurant and the Hotel Atrio. In the meantime, you can visit the Museum of the Councils and Visigoth Culture, in the Mudéjar Church of San Román, in the historical part of the city.

Eating amidst wine cellars and vineyards

In the historical part of the city, the Adolfo restaurant is my favorite. Tell them that I sent you and they will open the doors of their 13th century wine cellar. And don’t leave Toledo without seeing el Cigarral de Santa María, with its three hectares of vineyards, where Adolfo make one of the best wines of the D.O. Tierra de Castilla

Industrial Architecture

In this plain, the Arms Factory for which the construction was ordered by King Carlos III in the 18th century, is a spectacular structure designed by Sabatini. It is rational and bucolic, between two arms of the river, and has been converted into a university campus where everyone wants to study.

Oropesa -
Spain

Hotel and restaurant in the country. Between the Gredos mountains and the majestic Tagus river, this 19th century manor house modestly hides its terracotta facade behind tall cypress trees. In the main building or the outbuildings in the garden, the spacious bedrooms offer majestic panoramic views. The six hundred hectare domain has exclusive activities in store such as relaxing in the spa, horseback riding, hunting and golf on the hotel’s driving range and its pitch & putt. In the surrounding area you will find attractions like the Guadalupe monastery, the castle of Oropesa and the Yuste abbey. The magnificent Tierra restaurant uses ingredients from its own farm and kitchen garden.
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Relaxation at the Caroli Spa

A little swim in the indoor swimming pool, a massage or a beauty treatment with products of this famous brand will leave you feeling like new, with your pores open and your spirit on the surface.

Exclusive excursion in the country

On horseback or in a carriage like the lords of old days, or in an all-terrain military vehicle, a safari on the estate amidst deer, roe deer, partridges and eagles that you will not forget.

Dinner and drinks in the moonlight

The elegant dining room of the Tierra restaurant and its open air terrace, facing the outdoor swimming pool where the moon shimmers, make up two spaces that are equally seductive to whet your appetite.

After breakfast

Visit the Spanish-Muslim city of Vascos (on Saturdays from 10 AM to 2 PM, closed from January to May), a singular site and performance center on a private estate or the villa of Oropesa, a former feudal estate, with its two castles and other monuments of noble of folk architecture.

On the route

Sentimental Trujillo

In this city, which played a key role in the discovery of America, I enjoyed some truly magical moments with dear friends who lived in its fabulous palaces. In addition to its impressive heritage, I invite them to live two personal experiences: letting yourself get lost in the high part of the town and discovering a little square where the church of San Andrés and a beautiful natural pool form an exceptional complex; and contemplating the silhouette of the citadel and the crags against the horizon, from the Cáceres road.

Cáceres -
Spain

Restaurant and hotel in town. Located inside the walled town of Cáceres with its extraordinary Almohad, Gothic, Renaissance and colonial buildings, Atrio boasts sublime architecture by Emilio Tuñón Álvarez and Luis Moreno Mansilla, masters of modern design. In the heart of the old stone buildings of this medieval town, Chefs José Polo and Toño Pérez prepare cuisine with unique, authentic flavours in a heavenly, extremely contemporary setting. Truffles, pasta and mushrooms, razor clams with cured Iberian ham, pig’s trotters, oyster and other gourmet creations are in complete harmony with the splendid building.
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Return to the Renaissance

Outside of the walls, don’t miss the plateresque chapel and the restored bell tower of the church of San Juan or the Plaza Mayor. Within the walls, entering through the Arco de la Estrella, a series of three squares full of monuments: Santa María, San Jorge and San Mateo, the highest in the city. Along the way you will see many fortresses, closed to the outside and opening onto a patio. A typical typology of Cáceres that has been recreated in Atrio

Contemplating the city by night

With the monuments illuminated. From the roof terrace or taking a little solitary walk around the old city, before sleeping sweetly.

Swim in the swimming pools as night falls

When the time comes to return to the hotel, nothing could be better than a little dip in the twin pools on the terrace, with the burning red city at your feet.

Dine regally

Let yourself go and I will make up a tasting menu for you, with products from here and elsewhere, and personal recipes such as shrimp with a mask of Iberian ham.

Eating in the Old Atrio

Our parent company, in the new city, where we offer you the classic recipes of grandmother’s cooking. Baroque decoration, Berruguete soup tureens and boards. Authentic cuisine at a reasonable price (Avenida de España 22).

Departure

Roman Spain at its apogee

In the archeological complex of Merida : the theater where the Festival of Classical Theater takes place. The National Museum of Roman Art of Rafael Moneo, Pritzker Prize, and the temple of Diana and its surroundings, a work of the young and award-winning architect José María Sánchez García

Crossing the line

To get acquainted with Monsaraz, already 18 kilometers into Portugal. Within its walls, an Alentejo village which maintains intact its medieval layout, with its whitewashed houses, its large noble manors, and its castle with splendid views. Nearby, in Reguengos it is worth buying the handmade carpets. And a little further on, surrounded by vineyards, Heredade do Esporao is a large wine cellar where you can buy its excellent wines, cheeses and local oils. With guided tours, wine tasting and a good restaurant

Stripes of glory

At kilometer 590 on the highway, take the turn off for the EX 382 into the meadows where the Iberian pig is raised. When you arrive at Montánchez, go to Casa Bautista to learn about the world of this unique animal, to taste and buy the authentic high-quality ham. A product as fine as caviar. Visits upon request, between 5 and 10 people, guided by experts of the D.O Dehesa de Extremadura

Nightfall by the sea

In the seaside village of Cacela Velha, encircled by walls and hanging from a cliff or going through the historic quarter of Faro, hearing the sound of your own footsteps.

The large and small squares

To the south, where the Extremadura takes on a more Andalusian flavor, a getaway to Zafra to discover one of the most singular urban areas of Spain. Two adjoining squares with porticos of medieval flavor, with shining white houses and arches of brick, which are still the heart of this historical city

Portimão -
Portugal

Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Situated on the beach of Praia da Rocha in this sunny region in the south of Portugal, a 19th century family house overlooking the ocean became the first hotel in the Algarve In 1934. The Bela Vista Hotel & Spa has now been refurbished and is a preserved resort on this busy coastline, where you can find relaxation and privacy amidst vibrant colours. Basking on the recliners around the very fine pool, or lounging on a beach with direct access, this is the perfect place to while the time away. The murmur of the waves is a constant companion, whether sipping a cocktail at the bar at sundown or enjoying a romantic dinner on the huge terrace overlooking the beach.
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Lisbon -
Portugal

Restaurant in town. By taking over Belcanto in 2012, chef José Avillez has opened a new chapter in the history of this award-winning restaurant that has been installed in the romantic neighbourhood of Chiado since 1958. Its complete renovation did not disappoint. Amid its sober and sophisticated decor, the restaurant hosts only ten tables, providing guests with a highly exclusive experience. Diverse and creative, the cuisine revisits Portuguese gastronomy through a continuous study that deals as much with flavours as it does textures. A giant red prawn is thus confronted by rosemary ash, an oxtail marries with foie gras and chickpeas, and all is done in rhythm with the seasons and inspiration.
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Fado Concert in the Alfama, Lisbon

In the heart of the Alfama working district the Lisboetas come to listen to fado singers. A song which expresses the feeling of saudade, Fado is the heart of the town itself. Popularised by the tremendous Amália Rodrigues, it is as much a song of love as a devastating cry. A concert at the Clube de Fado, in the Parreirinha de Alfama restaurant or at the Alfama Port will be a memory you take and keep with you for the rest of your like.

A ticket for Tram n°28, Lisbon

Punching your ticket on Tram no 28 is synonymous with escape! Recognisable by its yellow colour and wooden seats, the most popular tram in town takes passengers between Campo Ourique and Martim Moniz. A slow, ambulant picture postcard, striking and Romanesque, between tight turns and steep slopes. On the way, we discover the Basilica and the Jardim da Estrela, the Baixa, the Alfama and the Lisbon Cathedral, ‘la Sé’…

Cascais -
Portugal

Hotel and restaurant on the seafront. Along with the Cabo da Roca lighthouse Fortaleza do Guincho is the most westerly point in Europe. Atlantic waves crash against the rocks at the foot of this impressive building. At the entrance, two cannons turned towards the ocean remind you that you are entering an ancient fortress. This is a building of character and immense charm, with preserved 17th century interiors, delicious cuisine and the beach just two steps away. Try water sports, play golf, or go to the casino in Estoril. For vibrant culture and nightlife, Lisbon is just 30 km away.
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