THE SECRET`S OUT ON FLORIDA`S GLITTERING ISLAND JEWEL-CALADESI

Ralph Hubley, Boston GlobeCHICAGO TRIBUNE

It may sound improbable, but not all Florida attactions are promoted in travel advertising or tourist brochures.

Many of these undisclosed treasures are still in the development stage and not ready for crowds. But there also are some vintage gems discreetly unmentioned by Floridians, who may be trying to keep some pleasures for themselves.

One such jewel is near here. Let me dare to be indiscreet and guide you to this area:

Between Tampa Bay and the Gulf of Mexico on Florida`s West Coast is a peninsula called by early Spanish settlers Punta Pinal, or Point of Pines. It is now called Pinellas County and is anchored by a thriving St. Petersburg.

On the Gulf side of this peninsula are a string of islands with such interesting names as Holiday Isles, Sand Key, Treasure Island and Honeymoon Island, and the island beaches of St. Petersburg and Clearwater. They`re connected to each other and to the mainland by causeways that make them easily accessible by car.

One of these coastal islands, however, can be reached only by boat. It`s called Caladesi (pronounced Caladeezy) and it`s just north of Clearwater Beach. The 653-acre island is protected as a state park and probably never will be crowded if state controls are kept in effect.

Until recently it was the exclusive domain of yachtsmen or those who chartered boats and tied up at the 100-slip marina. Now the state park service provides ferries on weekends from Honeymoon Island, which in turn is reached by a causeway from Dunedin. Daily ferry service is to start March 1 at which time the ferries also will pick up passengers at Dunedin pier.

The ferries, which carry 58 passengers on a first-come, first-served basis, control the length of stay on the island to four hours. Thus, the three-mile long, half-mile wide isle is never crowded. They start shuttling visitors at 10 a.m. and leave every hour on the hour. The last ferry back from the island is at 4:30 p.m. Roundtrip charges are $3 for adults and 50 cents for children. (Call 813-443-5903 for details; reservations may be necessary later in the tourist season.)

Now that you know how to get there, come along and join the line boarding the saucy little ferry that has tooted its readiness.

Passengers are carrying coolers, folding chairs and sun umbrellas, although we were told these were available on the island. It doesn`t take long for the pilot to collect fares and reserve your return trip. Some plan to return earlier than the four-hour limit.

Caladesi is already in sight as we pull away from the dock. The trip takes 20 minutes.

Along the way are spectacular views of high-rises around Clearwater shores and of sail and motor boats busily running the channel in and out of the open waters of the Gulf.

Pelicans swoop past, suddenly plunging into the water with unpredictable splashes. Gulls keep pace with the chugging ferry.

Then someone spots Caladesi harbor, and someone else points out the marina and landing dock. The friendly holiday mood perks with excitement as everyone prepares to disembark. Many express admiration for the sleek yachts lined up on either side.

Once ashore we pass the snack bar and concession stand with plainly marked prices, which explain why many visitors carry their lunches with them. But there`s a feeling of cleanness and naturalness about the area, unusual to many harbors, again attesting to close regulation.

The half-mile trek from the harbor side of the sandy island to the beach is made easy by an extensive network of boardwalks, most of them tree-covered. As we approach the two-mile beach, the walk splits to reach twin bathhouses, both of which are immaculate for such rustic buildings.

From the bathhouses we can see the wide expanse of the Gulf of Mexico. Just over the erosion control strip in front of us are the colorful umbrellas of those who have staked out their beach claims before us. The small groups are dozens of yards apart, for there is plenty of open beach. Lifeguards keep watch over the bathers.

We decide to walk to the far end, where it feels as if we have the whole island to ourselves with only the call of the birds and the whisper of the breeze to be heard.

The afternoon of sun, sand, sea and exploring passes quickly on what we now think of as our island. We check our watches often to make certain we get back to the dock for our assigned return trip. No one has explained what happens if you miss the last boat.

So we return to the ferry early and, sipping a soothing drink in the covered veranda of the snack bar, a welcome respite from the sun, we enjoy the view of the tiny harbor and plan our next trip to Caladesi.

For more information about Caladesi and the Pinellas Seacoast, write to the Tourist Development Council, Suite 109a, Newport Square, 2333 East Bay Dr., Clearwater, Fla. 33546.