All this talk about what works to improve gas mileage has me looking at
what else can I do to my FORD?????
MY 1990 F-250 4x4 Supercab 351V8 does get the mileage that everyone is
arguing about. Mind you its not a stock 351, it has Jacobs Wires,
Indexed platium plugs, underdrive pulleys, Ram air ducting for that all
powerful cooler air, K&N filter. Crane Compu-Cam, Headers, Clean 3inch
exhaust system with very little restriction. Its runs 5-30 Synthetic
Oil, Synthetic Gear and Differtial lubes. Speaking of Differential it
has 3.55 gears with Tall 235-85-16's by Michelin with the air pressure
right up there near maximum for least rolling resistance. Last but not
least it has the Jet Power Chip with a 165 Thermostat because again
cooler means power whereas hotter is for burning those pollutants. I use
a Grille cover for winter cab heat improvement. My Ford has the 5 speed
transmission which I seldom run in 5th gear because I like to keep the
Manifold Vaccum at or above 10 inches vaccum. My 90 F-250 gets 19 to as
high as 21 mpg empty that means without a tailgate and maintains 13 mpg
with a 3300 lb. 9 foot 10 inch camper on board. I'm also a believer in
my PreLuber System....
So much for my Truck, so lets get serious, What else should I or
others try for Power and Mileage??? Maybe a bigger throttle body or
maybe the Tornado Air Management System ???
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>Gary Gadwa wrote:
>
Rundown of lots of neat stuff done to 351 deleted, some of which
>I will sure want to know more about.

>So much for my Truck, so lets get serious, What else should I or
>others try for Power and Mileage??? Maybe a bigger throttle body or
>maybe the Tornado Air Management System ???

I don't know enough to comment on the throttle body or Tornado system,
but what about the addition of a high output coil or an MSD (multi-spark
discharge) ignition box? From what I understand, an MSD will provide
three sparks for each ignition cycle. Has anybody tried one or know
enough to give an opinion on the value of this type system?

I just joined the list after purchasing a used '92 F150. The truck is a
ext. cab, SB, 2wd, 351, E4OD auto, 82k miles. My previous vehicle was a
'91 Explorer with it's share of anomalies, and I have a few questions
regarding my F150.

1. It has a shudder when accelerating from a dead stop only. It seems as
though it is two distinct, separate shudders of very short duration. I
have not noticed an associated noise, just the physical vibration. I am
wondering if it might be a u-joint or driveline bearing? I have a 30 or
1000 mile warranty, so I need to have it checked pronto, and would like to
go in armed with some specific info if possible.

2. I bought the truck for towing. Right now I tow two small jet skis
(less than 1000 lbs.). However, I would like to know what the actual
rating of the truck is as I would eventually like to pull a travel trailer
or possibly a boat. I bought an owner's manual, and lists three different
GCWR's for the 5.8L/3.55 combination. They are 9500, 10500, and 11500.
Does anyone know which one is right? Am I missing some other piece of
info?

3. My Explorer manual advised to not tow in overdrive. The F150 manual
says the same for the normal AOD tranny, and the opposite for the E4OD. I
know this is usually an ongoing debate, but assuming it is not hunting
in/out of OD, should I assume the tranny will be OK towing in OD? How
durable is the E4OD?

4. I am coming in to the MPG discussion in the middle... Can I
realistically expect to get the same mileage with a vinyl bed cover that I
might get with no tailgate? I want to leave the tailgate on, but cut the
drag of having it up. Anyone have a favorite brand/style of bed cover?

5. Anyone tow a fifth wheel with a short bed? I have been told it is not
the best setup, but can be done if care is taken when backing up.

I guess that is enough for now, I am sure more questions will come up as
time goes by. Thanks in advance for any info.

>Gary Manning[SMTP:gmanning qualcomm.com] wrote:
>
>I just joined the list after purchasing a used '92 F150. The truck is a
>ext. cab, SB, 2wd, 351, E4OD auto, 82k miles. My previous vehicle was a
>'91 Explorer with it's share of anomalies, and I have a few questions
>regarding my F150.
>
>2. I bought the truck for towing. Right now I tow two small jet skis
>(less than 1000 lbs.). However, I would like to know what the actual
>rating of the truck is as I would eventually like to pull a travel trailer
>or possibly a boat. I bought an owner's manual, and lists three different
>GCWR's for the 5.8L/3.55 combination. They are 9500, 10500, and 11500.
>Does anyone know which one is right? Am I missing some other piece of
>info?

I have the same owner guide for my '92 F-250 Supercab. On the last page
of the GCWR charts, there is a section entitled "Required equipment".
As
I interpret the information listed there, Ford recommends the Super
Cooling
package to allow a GCWR of 10500 and both the Super Cooling and the
Handling/Suspension Package to give a GCWR of 11500 lbs. and allow
towing of trailers over 3500 lbs. One thing I noticed is that the
numbers
are the same for the F-150, -250s and -350 with the same engine/
transmission/axle setup. So since my F-250 also has the 5.8L/3.55
combination, but a higher empty weight, you can pull a heavier trailer
than me with an equally loaded truck.

Along these lines, I found out this week that published weights for both
pickups and travel trailers are on the light side. Wanting to get an
actual
weight, I hooked up our 30' travel trailer we bought in the last six
months
and drove to the local truck stop to weigh it on the scale. My truck,
with
a supposed empty weight of 4800 lbs., weighed around 5860 lbs. with me,
our 65 lb. German Shepherd, and some tools in the bed. The trailer,
with
an advertised wet weight of around 5000 lbs., weighed just under 6000
with
full fresh water and propane tanks and empty wastewater tanks. So even
before I load up the family in the truck and groceries and luggage in
the
trailer, I am over the maximum GCWR for my truck which I don't even
think
has super cooling (it has a transmission cooler, but not a big one).
Since I
am planning to sell neither truck nor trailer, I will just have to keep
an eye
on things. I have ordered a transmission fluid temperature gauge and
sending unit from J.C. Whitney which I plan on installing for this
purpose.

>3. My Explorer manual advised to not tow in overdrive. The F150 manual
says the same for the normal AOD tranny, and the opposite for the E4OD.
>I know this is usually an ongoing debate, but assuming it is not hunting
>in/out of OD, should I assume the tranny will be OK towing in OD? How
>durable is the E4OD?

I think the E40D is pretty durable and should be alright in overdrive.
I
think the temperature gauge for the transmission is a good idea but
if you don't have one, I hear that the water temp. is a good indication
of how hot the tranny is getting. As long as the heat stays down, I
think the shifting in/out of OD is not going to hurt much.
>
>5. Anyone tow a fifth wheel with a short bed? I have been told it is not
>the best setup, but can be done if care is taken when backing up.

About all I can say on this is that given a choice between towing a
fiver
or a tag-along trailer with a SWB pickup, I would take the fifth wheel
because of the increased sway a SWB vehicle would experience with
heavy side loads (from a cross-wind or passing 18-wheelers) on a
tag-along travel trailer. Putting the hitch over the rear axle should
calm
things down some. The point about backing up is a good one. With the
smaller turning radius of a SWB and the reduced distance between the
cab and the trailer when compared with a long bed (the extra bed length
is generally between the cab and the rear axle, it would definitely be
something to watch closely.

I have the same setup as yours, only mine is a '91 4X4 with a long box.
I have used it for towing as recommended in the owners manual (let it
shift into OD) and have had no transmission problems.

That said, I have heard from more than one source that there have been
problems with this transmission when used under extensive heavy duty
conditions. This was apparently especially true with the diesels,
presumably from the extra torque. You have probably noticed that the
transmission shifts very smoothly and often slips a fair amount on the
way. This of course causes extra heat in the transmission which will be
be worst with a load on it. I know that Banks makes a module for this
transmission which boosts the transmission pressure to make it shift
more crisply, thereby reducing heat and stress on the transmission.
They require you to buy this module as part of their Power Pack if you
have this transmission, apparently because they have had bad experiences
without it.

I only do moderate or occasional towing so I am not going to worry about
it. But if I was going to do extensive towing anywhere near the GCWR
limit, I would probably look into either this Banks module or a shift
kit for the transmission.

Good luck with your new truck. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy
mine.

> I have the same owner guide for my '92 F-250 Supercab. On the last page
> of the GCWR charts, there is a section entitled "Required equipment".
> As I interpret the information listed there, Ford recommends the Super
> Cooling package to allow a GCWR of 10500 and both the Super Cooling and the
> Handling/Suspension Package to give a GCWR of 11500 lbs.

Well, this brings up some more questions. What is included in the Super
Cooling and Handling/Suspension Packages. My temp gauge goes only
slightly off "C" into the "NORMAL" range. Can I interpret that to mean I
may have the Super Cooling? A bad thermostat? Is it running TOO cool? I
do have the stock tranny cooler, but that may be standard on auto
trannies. Anyone know for sure?

> a supposed empty weight of 4800 lbs., weighed around 5860 lbs. with me,
> our 65 lb. German Shepherd, and some tools in the bed.

I am wondering if the 4800 lbs. is the base weight? If so, you could have
several hundred pounds of optional equipment installed, like A/C, power
goodies, etc.

> on things. I have ordered a transmission fluid temperature gauge and
> sending unit from J.C. Whitney which I plan on installing for this
> purpose.

I may do this also when my trailer loads increase beyond the jet skis. I
doubt the truck really knows they are back there.

> I only do moderate or occasional towing so I am not going to worry about
> it. But if I was going to do extensive towing anywhere near the GCWR
> limit, I would probably look into either this Banks module or a shift
> kit for the transmission.

I should maybe add that my towing over 1000 lbs. is a few trips to the
Colo. River each summer. I do have a 4000 ft. mountain range for half the
distance, and the rest is flat, hot desert.

I have recently purchased (used) a 1994 XLT extended cab 4x4, (305 EFI).
When I bought it the seller stated it had a factory installed "towing
package". At the time I didn't think much about it because I didn't tow
anything. However now I need to to a small trailer and I was wondering what
visual clues to look for to verify that this truck does indeed have the
towing package. I called my local Ford dealer and they didn't have a clue
how to tell, other than looking at the original factory window sticker,
which I don't have.

This is what I do know: There is a factory installed 7 contact disconnect
located near the rear bumper. Also there is a factory installed disconnect
which is intended for a trailer brake device. There is a heat exchanger of
some kind located directly in front of the "main" radiator. I suspect this
may be for air conditioning though.

If anybody knows how to confirm any of this, I would really appreciate knowing.

Alas, I am selling my 95 F150, but we now have an 88 F150 4x in the family
(my son's) to replace it.

So onward: After a long period of wanting to do it, and never getting a
definitive answer from list members, I called the SVO tech line yesterday.
(You need patience and a redial button). Question, how do late model truck
302's differ from Mustang HO 302's? Answer, at some time, Ford ran out of
the truck blocks and switched to "Mustang" blocks, complete with roller
cams. Me- How do you tell if you have a roller cam engine? Ford: Can't tell
from the outside, take the intake off.

I wasn't able to take the conversation any furthur, what with the need to
support my employer and all--but ...it appears that based on what plant your
truck was assembled in, and what time of the month (etc), from 86 on, you
could have a roller or a tappet cam in your F-150. I have a suspicion this
88 has a roller, in spite of the information that follows. Why do I think
its a roller? Cause its high mileage and quiet. And does not appear to have
any valve damage at its time in life.

Looking in the "Ford F-series Pickup Owner's Bible", Moses Ludel indicates
that as of '89, Ford used the same block design for both roller and flat
tappet truck engines. I.e. if your truck did not come with a roller cam, you
can just drop one in (with appropriate lifters, guideplates and retainers.

This truck has 125k on it, and I'm looking around for a core engine to build
my son a healthier 302. So now I know that if I pick up a block from a
Mustang, I am not suffering any loss of longevity, or strength. I look to
get one and have it tanked. line bored, plate honed, mild porting on the
heads, a CA legal cam (if I can find one) and maybe spring for a set of CA
legal headers. All as 'his' (ahem, yeah right) budget allows.

Any suggestions?
Dave Lampert
(hope the 80 up digest takes up a little more life, the geezer list is still
rambling on full speed!)

Want to add dual exhaust to my 80 f150 when I install new 351w. I'm told
that Ford never put duels of their pickups. Is this true? I can't get a
muffler shop to do the job as they say it would void the emmisions requirments
for the truck. I want to add dual converters, mufflers, and pipes all the way
back, but they say "no can do". Any comments or suggestions? I live in Virginia
where inspections are strict.

Anyone,
I realize most of you guys are running F series but some of us
just can't afford the big boys. Any help with the following would be
appreciated.
I recently rebuilt the 2 liter engine in my '84 ranger, and just
in the nick of time to, and can't seem to get the idle set up on the
carb.
Just a short history on it. Two winters ago number three piston
did the oil pan two step, ruined block, short on money put used block
under old head. It ran allright, but fouled plug four every three months
or so, I guessed cracked head and was right. Time to rebuild, purchased
reconditioned head from local, reputable, machine shop, everything is
exact except for; it's off a 2.3, and intake valve is larger (cam was
also switched out). While doing the job, I said what the hec, I'm
planning on keeping it for awhile, and did the rings and bearings. Thank
god I did two of the four pistons were cracked, tossed all four and used
hypereutectic, engine is now quiet and has more power,but it wouldn't run
that well. Replaced carb with aftermarket rebuild, gets great gas
mileage, and better power, but the dang thing just won't idle right.
The carb was matched against the o.e. tag, everything on the
engine was torqued to specs. I've played with every adjustment to do with
idle, except takeing the carb off and letting it sit idle on the bench.
It's the type carb that has the eletronically adjusted idle mixture
solenoid, I even tried unhooking this, and using a blocking gasket to
take it out of the picture.
Any ideas or suggestions as to what might help would be thankful?
Maybe switch the carb to an '85 or'86 without solenoid?

We are wondering if other ford owners are having difficulties with the
automatic with overdrive. Are there any other transmissions that can be put
in to replace the E4OD type. If it is possible email me with your personal
experience: crna pipeline.com thanks and have a great day!

I own a 94 F-150 with a 302/5.0. I had a glass pack muffler with twin
outlets installed by a local muffler shop. Then they added tein tailpipes
that exit on opposite sides of the spare tire. Looks good, and gives a
quiet but mellow rumble.

A big problem with true duals on F-150's is the interference from the left
side tank, if you have dual tanks. They don't want to run an exhaust pipe
that close to a fuel tank... I don't blame them....

I used to own a 76 F-150 with a single rear tank. I put a complete set of
duals on it from the manifold to the tail pipe ...no probblems encountered.

Most of the cat back systems are 50 state emission legal. That may be your
best bet.

At 06:51 AM 5/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Want to add dual exhaust to my 80 f150 when I install new 351w. I'm told
>that Ford never put duels of their pickups. Is this true? I can't get a
>muffler shop to do the job as they say it would void the emmisions requirments
>for the truck. I want to add dual converters, mufflers, and pipes all the way
>back, but they say "no can do". Any comments or suggestions? I live in
Virginia
>where inspections are strict.
>
>I don't want to split at the muffler if I can help it.
>
>Douglas Minnick, WD4BSB
>Television Engineer
>Va Tech University
>204 Saunders Hall
>Blacksburg, Va.
>24061-0307
>cableeng vt.edu
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT
ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY
DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES
3400 PERSHALL RD.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339
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I'm having problems with my dual tanks, usually the front tank. Even
though both tanks are filled from the same pump, the front tank acts
like it has bad gas (water in the gas). This is especially bad when it
rains. Has anyone out there had the same problem and if so, how did you
fix it.

I've checked with some local mechanics and they drive the truck and tell
me I need a tune-up. Been there-done that and the problem still pops up
its ugly head usually only when it rains.

P.S. I LOVE my truck. I bought it used in '95 with 35K miles on it
already. It is a blue and white Ford F-150 XLT extended cab with camper
shell. I have put the stow-a-way kit in the bed (short). It looks
great and is very comfortable.
I want an electric sunroof but, I've heard from friends I shouldn't put
one in, because it will destroy the cab. What is your opinion and has
anyone out there done this?
Help!
Beverly

Barbara Harris wrote:
>
> We are wondering if other ford owners are having difficulties with the
> automatic with overdrive. Are there any other transmissions that can be put
> in to replace the E4OD type. If it is possible email me with your personal
> experience: crna pipeline.com thanks and have a great day!
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.comMy dad has E-150 with the od auto it is his work truck and has had this
problem, I don't see a whole lot of this with every day driven trucks,
but the ones who work them usually have this kind of problem, I am not
sure why this problem exist it is diffently the auto trans, as I know a
guy with an F-150 5 spd who uses his truck like a tractor has 230,000....

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