Good read since I been rehydrating my dry yeast the lag time seems to be cut in half with nice strong fermentation I usually boil water then bring it down to 100-105 degrees then rehydrate I do this about 30 min left to the boil.

Thanks for pointing that out. I enjoy learning the reasons why for so many things taken for granted. I've been thinking about getting the Yeast book by White and Zainasheff. Does anyone else who has read it have an opinion?

I've always had success with just sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort and sealing the lid on the bucket. After it's below 80 degrees, of course. I'm getting ready to get into making my own starters with liquid yeast in the near future though, just as an advancement in the hobby.

I've always had success with just sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort and sealing the lid on the bucket. After it's below 80 degrees, of course. I'm getting ready to get into making my own starters with liquid yeast in the near future though, just as an advancement in the hobby.

Well IMO Liquid yeast is not needed f/ alot of styles. I have been brewing for 8yrs and started with dry yeast, then went to all liquid. Now i am back to dry yeasts from alot of my beers. I will go to liquid on some types of beer, but only if there is no suitable dry yeast. Liquid yeast is a pain in the Ass IMO. If you look at Mr. Malty and use it. You need to make some big starters for alot of beer. If you factor in the cost and time you send messing with liquid. 1 or 2 packs of dry yeast is the way to go. S-05 and S-04 fit 80% of the beer styels i brew.

Well IMO Liquid yeast is not needed f/ alot of styles. I have been brewing for 8yrs and started with dry yeast, then went to all liquid. Now i am back to dry yeasts from alot of my beers. I will go to liquid on some types of beer, but only if there is no suitable dry yeast. Liquid yeast is a pain in the Ass IMO. If you look at Mr. Malty and use it. You need to make some big starters for alot of beer. If you factor in the cost and time you send messing with liquid. 1 or 2 packs of dry yeast is the way to go. S-05 and S-04 fit 80% of the beer styels i brew.

Not to mention if brew day gets sidetracked, now you have to store the starter and maybe even dump it if you have to put it off more than a week or 2

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Wayne Gretzky-"100% of the shots you don't take, don't go in

Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.

I've always had success with just sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort and sealing the lid on the bucket.

I stopped yeast proofing in a seperate container years ago. In fact fermentis yeasts on their website, actually say that their yeast can be sprinkled or even rehydrated on wort (including the surface of the beer) there are lots threads discussing this, as I mentioned above. It's one of those debates like aluminum vs stainless, or Ag vs extract where it may not truly. There was a recent discussion about that here, http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/two...4/#post2318350

Here is some of that discussion;

Quote:

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ_IPA

I agree with ya Bob, but I tend to be a "directions" type of guy and at least US-05 says to sprinkle into wort.

If I do that, I have one less thing to clean up later

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revvy

I agree. That's what I've been doing for years, since I read THAT on the fermentis website in their "tips and tricks" section years ago and I've been doing it ever since. I sprinkle on the surface of the fermenter seal up my fermenter, let it sit on the surface for 15-30 minutes while I begin clean up and then I move it into my brew closet. And since 90% of what I brew is with safale 05, and I get great scores and comments on beers, I'm not going to stop doing it that way. Some will, of course, argue differently, but I maintain that that is "rehydrating with wort" only not is a separate container. If you can rehydrate it in a small container of "sterile wort" then you can do it in a 5 gallon container of wort as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob

It's weird how they say different things in different places. Huh.

Anyway.

Bob

Quote:

= revvy] And that's why I think the argument is silly because the differences in doing it an not are probably insignificant, at least on the homebrew scale.

But this is what it says in the current version of the tips.

Quote:

Water or Wort?
Fermentis yeast can be rehydrated with sterile water or sterile wort.
Whatever media is chosen it is compulsory to assure its sterility.
After the wort has been boiled for at least 15 minutes collect the volume
required for rehydration and leave to cool to the required temperature.
Rehydrate the yeast for 30 minutes.

Re-hydrate the dry yeast into yeast cream in a stirred vessel prior to pitching. Sprinkle the dry yeast in 10 times its own weight of sterile water or wort at 27C ± 3C (80F ± 6F). Once the expected weight of dry yeast is reconstituted into cream by this method (this takes about 15 to 30 minutes), maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes. Then pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C (68F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes and then mix the wort e.g. using aeration.

That's why it's a silly argument nowadays....(like most of them)

I think the yeast can figure out what to do on it's own.

That's just an FYI for you, that it isn't all that cut and dried these days where the rehydrate argument stands.

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The one thing I will do different now after reading this. I will make sure the yeast slurry is cooled with 10-15F of my wort temp before pitching it.

The author says "Warm yeast into a cold wort will cause many of the yeast to produce petite mutants that will never grow or ferment properly and will cause them to
produce H2S."

How much of an issue is this? I always rehydrate dry yeast and let it cool a bit but it is never the same temp as the wort. I usually pitch around 65F. Rehydrate at 90ish, then let it cool some. Nottingham says to add wort incrementally for temp adjustment. I think this is somewhat cumbersome

How much of an issue is this? I always rehydrate dry yeast and let it cool a bit but it is never the same temp as the wort. I usually pitch around 65F. Rehydrate at 90ish, then let it cool some. Nottingham says to add wort incrementally for temp adjustment. I think this is somewhat cumbersome

Hmmm..I believe the recommended range should be within 10F

__________________
Wayne Gretzky-"100% of the shots you don't take, don't go in

Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING, you didn't hurt the yeast, they know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.