You still have time to visit the Venice Biennale, until november 26 th exactly. We were there one month ago and I had few big crushes I wanted to share with you. Let’s start with the Giardini and my top 5 pavillions :

1° Switzerland : the pavilion is a tribute to Giacometti who actually never represented his country in the Biennale. The installation/ movie made Birchler and Hubbard moved us so deeply ! It’s about the forgotten love of the sculptor called Flora Mayo, which is also an edifying destiny of a woman artist coming from USA at the beginning of the century, thanks to the support of her family, until the crisis of 1929 ruined her artistic hopes and life… Nothing remains from her creations except a photograph of a wonderful bust she made of Giaco…I’m still haunted by her story.

3° France : The day we visited the Giardini was really magical as Nigel Godrich the producer of Radio head came to the pavilion-studio for a string session recording and the artist Xavier Veilhan was there too. Creation in motion.

4° Austria :up to you to activate famous Erwin Wurm one minute sculpture. Hilarious !

The german pavilion is out of competition if I could say as the excellent artist Anne Imhof choose to present an impressive live performance for the opening and ..nothing remains for it. Go and see it nevertheless.

pics coming soon…

In the Arsenale, my favorite works were :

1° Julien Charriere

2°Michelle Stuart

3°Ernesto Neto

4°Leonor Antunes

5°Kader Attia

6°Alicia Kwade

more text soon 😉

Don’t miss also these 2 pavilions in the Arsenale :

China

and the Georgian one with Vajiko Chachkhiani . Everyone is talking about his outstanding installation : a house where a non stoppable inside rain will ruin everything…

Big crush also for the nigeran pavilion, located in Scoletta dei Battioro e dei Tiraoro, a building from early 18th century, that was once home to Venice’s gold thread and gold leaf guild. Moreover this is the first participation of this country for the Biennale. Peju Alatise ‘s installation, evoking a yoruba tale is a must see ! Formal perfection and moving background with an actual echo of african female condition.

The best exhibitions to see in Venice :

1° Palazzo Fortuny and Axel Vervoordt choice. A must attend rendez-vous , the true spirit of connoisseurs, but, alas , the last edition… so Enjoy !!

2° Dont miss, next to Santa Maria dei Miracoli : Palazzo Soranzo van Axel, a new palazzo ,just refurbished , with a group show curated by Pouchkine museum. 2 excellent artworks to see there :

a magnetic video by David Claerbout about a strange wood.

an impressive sound installation by Yri Kalendarev that you can activate

3° Prada Foundation

more text and picas coming soon 😉

I invite yo to go on my Insta and turn the clock back to mid- august to see my post from Venice , including the Biennale @parisdeluxearty

The french master of sculpture died in 1917, one hundred year ago exactly, and this show curated by the actual director of Rodin Museum -Catherine Chevillot- and the former one- Antoinette Lenormand-Romain- ( they were both my teachers at Ecole du Louvre) demonstrate in a masterful way why and how Rodin was a forunner, a visionary, a tireless inventor who influenced generations of artists, from his time to today.

This exhibition which is not a classic retrospective will take you deep into the creative process of the artist who became himself a monument of french sculpture. The best tribute the curators can offer to Rodin to commemorate his true genius indeed and therefore a must see exhibition if you’re in Paris soon !

Superior part of the Doors of Hell with The thinker in the lintel.

Brancusi under the influence of Rodin with The sleep -1908

Anthony Gormley ‘s man standing.

2. Olga Picasso in Picasso museum

A very moving hommage to the first -official -wife of Picasso. They met in 1917 while the spanish painter was working with Les ballets Russes in Rome for the show “Parade”. She was a professional russian dancer , she was classy and beautiful, they fell in love in the eternal city and got married in Paris in 1918. She became his favorite model , depicted alone, reading, often thoughtful , or with their new born, Paul , showing lovely intimate moments of motherhood.

Unfortunately these quiet and happy times of domestic life won’t last …Olga was suffering in silence. First she felt powerless away from her family who endured the terrible repression from the october revolution in Russia -while she had an exciting worldly life in Paris-then she stopped dancing-the passion of her life- because of an injure and her pregnancy, and finally, the relationship with her husband crumbled, as the crual female portraits made by Picasso in the mid-20’s show it.

It was high time to devote an entire exhibition to Olga, who was actually almost unknown by the public at large . To answer to this exceptional event, the family lent not only paintings but also precious archives ( letters- photographs – documents), some of them exhibited for the first time, that shed a new light on Picasso’s works and life and reveals the odd and unique destiny of a russian woman in the early 20th century.

Olga with a mantilla – Barcelone 1917

Seven dancers with Olga on foreground- 1917

3. Gardens in Grand-Palais

Since the antiquity artists have always been inspired by nature and celebrated it through fine arts or decorative arts and even high end jewelry. Paintings, sculptures, artifacts, later photography, video, installation, created by the most outstanding artist of each great artistic period bear witness of it. This is exactly what this exhibition curated by talented director of Picasso museum , Laurent Le Bon, demonstrates with a selection of artworks from the Renaissance to today. You are invited to an exquisite promenade in company of Dürer, Klimt, Matisse, Fragonard, Monet , Cézanne, Cartier, Mellerio, to name but a few. This is a fabulous feel-good exhibition that will make you want to cultivate your own-real- garden !

How to avoid this usual january blues, especially after fabulous december’s holidays and great new year’s eve party, looking like a vague memory today…;-)

Ritzy Therapy is my prescription ! How about to start with a massage in Coco Chanel spa, the most refined and stylish spa in the capital ? Among the many sophisticated details you’ll enjoy during your session , please note Colin Field-the legendary Hemingway Bar’s MC- had developed some magic healthy mix just for you, according to the cares you will receive. Spices, essential oils, plants infusion…will prepare your body deeply meanwhile you will listening to jazz or classic. Heaven on earth !!

Then a nap by the gorgeous swimming pool where you can also lunch or sip delicious smoothies :

When hotels guests will arrive around 5 pm, it’s the perfect moment to leave this enchanted place for a lovely and delicious high tea in salon Proust …Just memorable…

Then it ‘s already 7.30 pm, time to move to mythic Hemingway Bar. Let the charm and …cocktails act !

With this Rizty prescription, you will simply love january and its blue monday ! 😉

This breathtaking exhibition is exceptional and unique in more ways than one. First, the collector himself : a russian moghul of textile in the ending 19th century, who formed his eyes traveling Asia, Africa and India, selecting motifs and managing stocks for the family company. He started to collect french Art when he was 44, thanks to his brother Ivan who settled down in Paris and introduced him to famous art dealer Durand-Ruel. Then the way he collected : he had a great intuition of what was important for the development of Art and acquired sometimes against his own taste works by Matisse or Picasso which were also highly contested by critics and public. It happened he wrote to Matisse : ” I hope I will like one day your work” ! Or said about Picasso : “He’s right, I’m wrong”. As soon as 1907 he had the project to offer his collection to Moscow and opened it to the public a year later, giving tours to amateurs he received in his splendid mansion-former Palace Troubetskoy-like the russian avant-garde including Malevitch, Larionov, Rodtchenko.. . Finally the destiny of the collection : after the October Revolution, it was nationalized, transformed, mixed with Morosov collection and then divided in 1948 between Moscow, in Pouchkine museum, and Saint Petersburg, in the Ermitage museum. Meanwhile Chtchoukine fled from Moscow in 1918 and settled down in Paris where he lived discreetly until his death in 1936, leaving his collection behind him for ever. This exhibition is a rare opportunity to see half of the original ensemble gathered for the first time since it had been divided and to admire this unique journey of an outstanding project created only in 15 years for the essential, from 1898 to 1914, including famous masterpieces by Monet, Gauguin, Cézanne, Picasso, Matisse… and telling the story of western modern art !

Gauguin-Vairumati Tei Oa – 1892

2) Magritte in Pompidou Center (until january 23rd)

If you still think that Magritte was a surrealist painter, run and see this clever exhibition that will surprise you !

The tone is set with 3 paintings exhibited at the entrance showing self-portraits ( or assimilated) as a philosopher. The belgium artist wanted to show that a painter was able to express ideas with images, calling into question this old conflict between words and images, established since the antiquity through the story of Moses and the Tables of Law, or the famous myth of grotto told by Platon, where images were always considered to be suspicious and under reality or truth. With his subversive humour and ability to create unexpected images, using a logical process only- almost mathematical- from 1932 onwards, which was by the way at the opposite of dream state and unconsciousness used by surrealist, Magritte wanted to evoke the mystery of life, present in our daily reality. Other topics, proper to art history and the creation of images are present in this exhibition, such as the importance of shadows in Magritte’s works, related to the story of Dibutade and the invention of portrait or the seek of perfect proportions through selection, fragmentation and recomposition where a parallel with Zeuxis (when he wanted to create the best portrait of Helena) is drawn.

Going back to the roots ! All about this legendary school that set up the golden rules of actual design and blossomed in 1919 in Germany, before being stopped by the accession to power of nazis in 1933. We start from sources of inspiration with mingei style in japan and Wiener werkstätte in Austria to finish with actual designers and fashion designers still under the influence of the mythic german mouvement who wanted to abolish borders between craftmanship and art, celebrating know-how and fine arts theories. Among the most renowned masters who taught there and left a strong print we find Kandinsky, Klee, Albers…The exhibition is complete and doesn’t forget to show also the relations of Bauhaus with modern dance and choreography. That makes ” The Spirit of Bauhaus” a must see in Paris !

While one of the main event of the year in Paris, known as La rentrée (termoriginally used for back to school then back to work for anyone who had a summer break) is sticking its nose and will occupy conversations, medias, people…during at least 2 weeks, it could be the best moment to head south for few days, in the direction of french Riviera, don’t you think ? 😉 Such an exquisite way to extend summer !

I would suggest then Cannes, a very easy destination, by plane ( from Paris to Nice 1.20 h then take a taxi, around 30 min ) or even TGV (5 hours). Moreover the prices are less expensive now and it will be less crowded. Without speaking of the weather, less hot than Paris right now, can you believe it ? !

We were there last week for – lazy-holidays and it was marvelous to enjoy the riviera lifestyle with simple pleasures, like the market on sunday :

Everywhere on this market you can find cute and tasty tomatoes, easy to eat in the street like these colourful ones :

You can have also fresh flowers of zucca fritters , just next to the market, prepared on request ! What a treat 😉

There are 3 rooftops only overlooking the famous promenade called Croisette, and my favorites are 3.14 and J.W Marriott.

Here is first the view from 3.14 ( the tapas were delicious) . They were magical places for the sunset as you can see.

I was dreaming about a perfect grilled fish on the beach and had it at La Plage, the beach restaurant of Gray d’Albion (Barriere Group so perfect service, perfect food). Look at these fabulous sea basses :

Sunset there was lovely too :

We loved the spot so much we even came back few days after for the breakfast, how nice to start the day like this !

When you stay in Cannes, there is an institution you have to visit by night : Le Vesuvio, THE italian restaurant, there is always an awesome atmosphere ! I introduce you its great pizzaiolo standing in front of the owen :

This time it was not a cultural trip, we just wanted to enjoy the sea, the sun, the dolce vita, and simple walks in the street, just looking around at the typical architecture and enjoy the riviera light ! 😉

If you want to see more pics about Cannes, please visit my Insta : parisdeluxearty

See you soon to talk about the best of contemporary art exhibitions in pariasian galleries…

Tired to see all the trendiest bistrots and boutiques- without speaking of yummy bakeries and small groceries- closed until the end of the month, and too hot in town to enjoy Tuileries or Luxembourg garden ? Then it’s the perfect timing to go green ! The ideal summer retreat 20 minutes far from Paris is … Versailles ! Did you know it ? Well, Trianon Palace hotel is so sure about this that they propose during summer a free shuttle service from the Arch of Triumph to the Hotel in Versailles, located just next to the legendary park.

The hotel has also his own pleasant garden with nice terrasses, a great swimming pool and the restaurant is run by Gordon Ramsay (the gastronomic restaurant is closed for holidays now but delicious Veranda restaurant is open). All of these give you excellent reasons to take 3 days off for visiting, at your own rythm, the castle, the gardens, the estate of Marie-Antoinette like we did last week and to relax in fabulous surroundings 😉

I loved our room (number 126) with nice views on the greenery, even on the bathroom !

I would suggest to arrive on friday and start with a walk in the Domaine (real estate) of Marie-Antoinette, including first Petit Trianon, commissioned originally by Louis XIV for his famous mistress Madame de Pompadour, built in neoclassical style by the architect Gabriel and achieved in 1768. Then you can reach from there my favorite part of Versailles gardens : the Hamlet of Marie-Antoinette commissioned in 1783. It looks like a small french village from Normandy with rustic style country houses for the queen and her personal selected guests. It’s a little bit Marie- Antoinette Simple Life mood but soooo picturesque !

There is also a lake with swans and carp fishes, and a small tower of observation called Malborough tower from a popular song at this time. The perfect postcard as you can see below !

You can walk after to the farm and see the rabbits, peacocks, chickens, goats, aries and pigs , without forgetting the cute donkeys :

Then you can go back to the hotel and enjoy sunbathing by the pool 🙂

I would suggest a romantic diner on the Veranda terrasse in the evening to admire the sun set and they have a fabulous diet menu with these exquisite pasta as main course :

On saturday you can visit early in the morning the castle. Don’t miss Olafur Eliasson’s fantastic and dazzling installations :

At 11 am rush in the gardens to admire the magical spectacle of Great Waters (Grandes Eaux). Versailles gardens with fountains working and baroque music in the background is a unique experience in summer, just memorable !

I do recommend to hire golf cars to explore the bushes and coppices, full of surprises and visual delights, you will enjoy then totally the pure beauty of the french style gardens, created by Le Nôtre, THE garden designer of the famous sunking, Louis XIV.

After a light lunch by the Grand Canal a boat ride can be fun, or hire bicycle if you want to go to Grand Trianon, located just next to Petit Trianon visited the first day.

Check before you go to Versailles, if there is any night spectacle on saturday evening and book if so ! You’ll have sparkles in your eyes, like a kid, for the final with the fireworks around midnight next to Grand Canal 😉

On sunday you can take advantage of the hotel pool and relax in the spa or go back to the park to see some spots you didn’t have time to explore the days before ! You can even book a driver to go to Giverny and visit Monet house, 1 hour far from Versailles 😉

We can also go to Versailles together, just for the day (and no waiting line there with me !) I will give you a private tour of the castle and gardens 😉 Send me a request by mail to know my fees (amuraro@sfr.fr) if you’re interested.

I invite you now to visit myInstagram account (parisdeluxearty) to see more images of Versailles if you wish !

We just come back from Montecarlo and that was a memorable and delicious stay ! We went there for the new Art Fair called ArtMontecarlo that took place in Grimaldi forum, very well located. 39 galleries participated, the major part were french, belgium, german, italian, among the best ones like Galleria Continua, Almine Rech Gallery, Tornabuoni, Laurent Godin, Eva Meyer, Nathalie Seroussi, In Situ…The selection was excellent, I invite you to see more pics on my Insta account : parisedeluxearty.

Dalinienne Empire – 1965

When I booked the hotel I didn’t hesitate : Hotel Metropole was my first and unique choice and I was so right ! The best atmosphere in Monaco thanks to Jacques Garcia signature : cosy, elegant, refined, stylish, arty without being too trendy, with an excellent good taste that unifies the ensemble. Actually you feel like living in a marvelous private mansion with a soul. A kind of best kept secret in Monaco ! I loved the warm library-bar for a drink with friends. The spa is very pleasant, relaxing, and the pool side a dream, moreover the lunch there was great with the best Pissaladiere I ever had ( french mediterranean specialty, kind of tart with glazed and roasted onions), without speaking of the xxl tiramisu to share for dessert (see pic below) !

The chef of the 2 hotel stared- restaurants is the famous and celebrated french big boss of haute cuisine : Joel Robuchon . His family name himself looks like a recipe or a french cheese 😉

We tried his amazing japanese restaurant called Yoshi , the first truly japanese restaurant launched by a french chef. Actually we were very lucky to have a table as this is not huge and always over booked, and I do understand why : this was just beyond ! many people in travel and luxury business are talking about experience but really, I can tell the difference between a promise and the reality and … you won’t be disappointed by the promise : this place is a true space and time capsule ! Everything was absolutely divine : the sushis (see 3rd pic below) were perfect, the king crab california rolls were the best I’ve ever had , the lacquered chicken was great…The decor is just breathtaking, totally mingei ( japonese minimalist, very aesthetic and functional) with an amazing chandelier floating above the table ( second pic below) overlooking a contemporary japonese garden (cf just below) . You’re just eating in an artwork !

The first evening after the opening of the Art Fair we had a dinner with art dealers and curators at Nobu in Fairmont hotel that I do recommend also. The flavors , the textures are another tasty experience. Great place for happy dinner with friends. sorry I don’ t have pics…

Among the mythical place to party the Jimmy’s is on the top list and we went there ! The famous auctioneer Simon de Pury, warmed up the house with his 80’s mix.

Many people think Monaco is artificial, superficial, all centered on real estate, cars, casino and diamonds…nobody thinks immediately about …museums or contemporary art centers and that’s a big mistake ! I tell you : The Rock- as we say in France- is becoming a place of interest for art lovers, thanks to the great personality of Marie-Claude Beaud, director of the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco ( NMNM), i.e the New National Museum of Monaco, including Villa Sauber (pic 1 below) – a magnificent villa from Belle Epoque time- showing a global artistic project by Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli called Villa Marlene, tribute to the divine Marlene Dietrich (2nd pic) , meanwhile Villa Paloma from 1013, located on the heights and offering a breathtaking view on the sea, houses hyper-realist sculptures by Duane Hanson- very freaky ones !- and Thomas Demand tricky images (4th pic). Do not miss also the video by Oscar Murillo called Meet me Mr Superman presented there.

So, no need to be a billionaire with a huge Yacht to enjoy Monaco as you can see. Art lovers will be more than satisfied by their stay 😉 and I already want to come back in this very Deluxe&Arty place !