The Via Alpina trail crosses into Italy over the Grand St-Bernard pass and winds along a large number of broad pastures and woodland to the Citrin pass, on the opposite side of the Gran San Bernardo valley. The alpine landscape continues to the valley of Vertosan and the Joux pass, from where there are views of Mount Emilius, the Gran Paradiso range and the Rutor peak.

From Switzerland, the trail crosses into Italy and the signs show yellow numbers in a yellow circle. From the Gran San Bernardo pass, it leads gently down through broad pastures to the hamlet of Maison de Réfuge, at 2213m of altitude. From here, the trail commands splendid views over the Gran San Bernardo valley as it leads to Saint-Rhémy en Bosses. This is the same route as that followed by the Tour des Combins (yellow rhombus marked TDC in black letters) and the town is also the end of an Alta Via no. 1 trail stage. From Saint-Rhémy en Bosses, the trail leads down to the village of Saint-Léonard, along a farm road. This is the halfway point of the stage and it is possible to break here for the night. At Saint-Léonard, near the church, the trail begins again, marked 9, and leads to the hamlet of Cerisey. From here follow trail no.8 to the Citrin Desot hut, and then through pastures and some dense woods to the Citrin de Meiten hut. Past these, the trail leads through a long valley with broad pastures to the Citrin pass (2481m). The views here are of the broad valley of Vertosan and the trail (no.10) heads steeply downwards, crosses the Sorace pasture and hits the Vertosan stream. It then follows the course of the river to the pastures of Rovine. From here, there is a farm road to Or di Jovençan and Jovençan (1866m). During the summer months there is a restaurant here, serving typical local dishes. Follow the trail along a plateau to the pastures at Maisonettes and on to the Joux pass (1823m) from just below which it is possible to see the small artificial lake. A trail begins just past the lake and it leads directly down into Vens. It is also possible to follow the old mining trail (no.30A) which also leads to Vens. The walker can either stop here for the night or go on along a track (no. 18) through the villages of Cerlogne and Coudray to the village of Cerellaz. (Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta)

Natural and cultural heritage

The Great Saint Bernard pass is a fascinating place, rich in history. From when the hospice was built in 1050, pilgrims, merchants and armies have passes through here. The current structure dates from 1825 and many an illustrious personality has stayed in its rooms: Henry IV, on his way to Canossa, Frederic Barbarossa, and Napoleon, with his army of 50.000 soldiers, on their way to Marengo where he defeated the Austro-Piedmontese troops. A road leads to the pass. At the time of the Celts it was a mere dirt track. It became a major artery at the time of the Romans and was paved. As such it continued to be used throughout the middle ages. It became a bridleway and was finally upgraded to a road in 1900. The monks still host trippers and tourists who transit through here. There is a Baroque church and a library containing over 30 thousand volumes. From here, rolling pastures and conifer woods lead gently down to Saint-Rhémy en Bosses (1619 m). Saint-Rhémy en Bosses is the last administrative area in Aosta Valley before the Swiss border. It was inhabited all year round since the time of the Salassi, a celtic tribe that dominated the area before the Romans. In Roman times a mansio, an inn for travellers, was built there. The area is famous for the local speciality Jambon de Bosses, a ham that is treated with aromatic mountain herbs and, thanks to the unusual microclimate (windy and dry), takes on an unusual and unmistakable flavour. The product received a Designation of Origin in 2003, during the Jambon de Bosses annual festival that takes place in the first half of July. The first stopping point of the stage is Vens in the Saint-Nicolas area. The church of Vens is at the entrance to the village, which is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways. There are many houses made of stone, in the typical style of Aosta Valley. If one is being renovated you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the traditional oven and milk store. At Saint-Nicolas is the Centre for Franco-provençal Studies, housed in a fully-renovated 18th century building. There is also a Museum devoted to Jean-Baptiste Cerlogne, the first poet to write in the dialect of Aosta Valley, born in Cerlogne in 1826. In addition to his writing he also produced a small grammar book and dictionary of the franco-provençal dialect. The second stop is Cerellaz, in the Avise area, a typical mountain village. It has a small church, an oven and a milk store and stunning views of Mont Blanc. There are two important events on the local calendar: at the end of June is the festival of the Fiocca (whipped cream) in the village of Beilun, and on the first Sunday in August there is the spectacular Bataille des Reines (a tussle between pregnant cows) in the Vertosan valley. (Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta)

The trail from Col Citrin to Saint Leonard is not marked very well. A good idea is to stay east and walk north if you are in doubt. There is a great refuge called "Enoteca Enoetica" before Col du Grand-Saint-Bernard. Highly recommend!!

There is no refueling in St-Rhémy-en-Bosse, but in St-Léonard, fitted to the service area near the gas station, outside the village. Vertical drop: 924m and 612m not (thus more 1h) - The route 8 from the church of St-Leonard (VA logo) but then no further indication to the Citrin pass, despite two bifurcations The trail ... Cerellaz between Vens and is not maintained at all. He disappears so I lost it and got to Charbonnière. In the summer of 2015, prohibits path between Joux and Vens and between Avise and Runaz (landslides).

La Vieille Cloche (B&B) in St Leonard has only 3 rooms. For E 40 a good deal. A good restaurant near an ugly parking lot under a depressing looking viaduct -customs office. Once you get in it looks better, and they offer a really good 3 dish menu for E18. The money machine is in the lobby of the truckers-hotel above.

Travelling north to south, we found this a long stage. Around 2,300m of descent and 1,000m of up. Leaving the hospice, follow the road (or walk round the lake) until you see a path clearly signposted to the left. From there, the path was easy to follow, although the final GPX marker underestimated the distance to Cerellaz.

We really enjoyed staying in the Hotel des Alpes. The welcome was very friendly, the set menu started with Gnocchi followed by pork in a cheese sauce. The breakfast was a full continental with filter coffee. Including 0.5l of house wine and picnics the price was 112 Euro for two.

The downsides, the bed was quite thin, the bathroom quite small, and the room not well sound insulated from the bar below. However we would definitely stay there again for the quality of the food and the warm welcome.

Mountain Girl - 2014-08-18

The B&B in St Leonardo only accepts groups of 4-5 persons. I was forced to climb back uphill to the very top of the village in order to find a room at Hotel des Alpes; (they also have a dortoir).

About 4h hike from Cerellaz to Col Citrin, There are different possible trail to reach. Think I choose the best option towards Vedun by trail #18a. Check out my blog for maps of the area or ask Hotel des Alpes they have trails maps in that area. GPX file downloaded in June 2013 was not accurate

about 1h down from Col Citrin to reach Iron water stream which is potable and good to drink (Locals information)

Another hour to reach St Leonard.

B&B in St Leonard, restaurants too, Restaurant also in ST Rhemy...also accomodation if i recall correctly.

ST Rhemy is the meeting point with Via Francigena

St leonard - St Rhemy about 1h

40CHF for B&B at Col du grand St Bernard. Super clean and great bed.
If you want to save $ or want to meditate on your own, there is a comfortable free open refuge just down 30min at 2290m. Wood available, table, chairs, fireplace, blankets : great free accomodation called le Tronchet

During this long stage, he a native of St. Leonard told me the presence of a small source of bubbly water ... but ferruginous, the climb of the Col CITRIN a nearby trail. It is a curiosity but do not expect there to slake his thirst! At the end of the day, I step in the beautiful village of Saint Nicolas, above Cerellaz. Hotel VAGNEUR Frazione VENS / 11010 SAINT NICOLAS. Tel: 00 39 (0) 165 91248 Cell: 00 39 335 4339 90 Email: info@hotelvagneur.com

Don't follow the red-white markers on the way up to Col Citrin. You'll find some of this markers after leaving Saint-Leonard. The markers in this area for the hiking path are painted in yellow with black digits on them.
When you reach a forking with several paths marked with the number 8 followed by a letter, take the path 8d to your right side.