This being our first haul out with this boat, the PO gave us four carpeted blocks of wood and told us that they had to be positioned about 2" below the splash rail when using slings to haul out. This happened yesterday and as you can imagine, since the splash rail is nearly at the water line, trying to get the wooden blocks submerged and stay in place till tension is on the slings is a real trick. Well 3 worked but one popped up too high and upon lifting pulled a section of splash rail away from the boat. It looks like this has happened before. My question is, does the splash rail need to travel the entire length of the boat or would the first 10 ft. from the bow be sufficient as I see no purpose along the side of the boat. If I shortened them lifting would not be a problem. Have a look at the pic and let me know your thoughts. Bad design, live with it or fix it????

Greetings,
Mr. LaB. I can't really address the spray rail question but you've got the blocks, they're carpeted and they work (when in place). I would weight the blocks to negative buoyancy, fix the spray rail and use 'em. Simply tie them off to your vessel under the slings and haul away. You have to use them what, twice a year?

My question is, does the splash rail need to travel the entire length of the boat or would the first 10 ft. from the bow be sufficient as I see no purpose along the side of the boat. If I shortened them lifting would not be a problem. Have a look at the pic and let me know your thoughts. Bad design, live with it or fix it????

I agree with your analysis.

I have splash rails that do a terrific job at 8-10 knots. (That's balls out for my boat with its SD hull.) Although, not a continuation of the splash rails at the bow, I do have some that extend all the way aft but as you can see from the photos taken at speed, they contribute very little if not at all. I believe the rails running aft were intentioned more for the stiffness of the hull (as they are molded in) rather than the control of the passing water. Here are a few shots so that you can arrive at your own conclusion.

It seems the simplest is put the block above the rails rather than below? Do they have to be below if the blocks are wide enough to protect the rails. Since you boat is not thr wide if would seem the straps would be out to the side rather than straight up on the rails.

Thanks guys for the perspective. I had no idea they would effect the efficiency of the boat so sounds like not a good idea to remove them for this and other reasons pointed out. I think the blocks have been used under the rail since that is on the curve of the bottom, if I put them above I would be scared of putting a lot of strain on the side of the hull. The crane the marina uses pulls all the boats the same day and his setup is 12 ft. wide which is only inches wider than the width of my boat so the slings are perfectly vertical. They even touch the cap rail when lifting since I have no rub rail. Took the picture below yesterday when my buddies SeaRay was on the slings. Since my post I was thinking about attaching the boards to a weighted sling with a fixed length then sliding the slings under the hull before haul out. The boards, now being joined under the boat could not possibly ride up and I could even hook them over the cap rail on each side to keep them in position. A pain but I think it would work, thoughts??? Don't want to be fixing this spray rail every year and it's a cored hull to boot including the side walls. Lots of good ideas as usual. Cheers