The best U-lock

U-locks (also called D-locks) are basically giant padlocks in two separate parts. A rigid U shaped shackle attaches to a straight crossbar forming a closed D shape around whatever you are trying to secure.

First developed in the 1970s by the company that would go on to become Kryptonite, U-locks revolutionized bike security by providing security comparable to hardened chains at a fraction of the weight. Today, U-locks are offered by all the main bike lock brands including OnGuard, Abus and Oxford.

If you’re only going to buy one lock (and really I recommend you buy two), then a U-lock is probably the way to go. They offer the best balance of security, practicality and price.

Chain locks may provide more options when you’re looking for places to lock your bike but they’re very heavy. If you’re not sure, check out my guide to choosing a lock. But remember: cable locks offer very little security. Never buy a cable lock!

OK, so I hope I’ve convinced you to buy a U-lock. But which is the best U-lock for you? There’s a bewildering range of sizes, weights and prices from a slew of different brands. You can compare a load of different U-locks here. But there are a few other things you need to consider before you buy one…

What size do I need?

Size here refers to the space within the U-lock rather than the thickness of the metal. With U-locks, smaller is better. Smaller U-locks are not only lighter and easier to carry, as long as the metal remains a decent thickness, they are also more secure.

This is because the more full a U-lock is (with your bike and the object it is fastened to), the less room there is for a thief to insert tools that could help them break the lock. With weaker U-locks they could insert a length of metal into the space and try and twist the lock off. With stronger U-locks they could insert a hydraulic bottle jack to try and pop the lock open.

So try to choose a U-lock that fits as tightly as possible around your frame, your wheel and whatever you habitually secure your bike to. Of course the disadvantage of a small lock is that you limit the things you can secure your bike to. Lamp posts, thick sign posts and wide railings are a no-no. You might also struggle a bit in busy bike racks. But this is where you need to think about where you lock your bike and whether the increase in security is worth the decrease in choice.

How thick should it be?

Thickness refers to the diameter of the U shaped shackle. Generally, the thicker the metal, the stronger the lock. However, the type of metal is important too and to be strong, they should always be made of hardened steel.

U-locks with diameters of less than 13 mm will be susceptible to attacks by medium sized bolt cutters which some opportunist thieves do use. Better U-locks, with diameters of between 13 and 15 mm are unlikely to be defeated by anything but the biggest bolt cutters which most casual bike thieves just won’t have. However some thieves will, so at the top of the range there are the thickest locks, with diameters of 16 to 18 mm which cannot be cropped by even the biggest bolt cutters.

Of course even the thickest U-locks can be defeated by power tools such as angle grinders, but there is nothing you can do about that. All you can do is buy the strongest lock you can afford and try to limit the opportunities any thief will have to work on it with power tools!

So, the thicker your U-lock, the better. But of course the thicker the metal, the more heavier the lock and this brings us to our next consideration…

How easy is it to carry?

This is a very important consideration because if it’s too difficult to carry around on your bike, then you probably won’t bother. Maybe you’ll start using something smaller and lighter. Or maybe sometimes you won’t use a lock at all. And this is when your bike will get stolen.

With U-locks, portability is affected by the size and weight of the lock and the quality of the frame mount that usually comes with it. The frame mount is normally a plastic bracket that fixes to the frame of your bike, into which the lock clips while you are riding around.

Depending on what type of bike you have (and what other accessories you have attached to your frame), the mount can usually be fixed in a number of different places including the top tube, the seat tube, the down tube or even the seat stays or handlebars.

Unfortunately, lock manufacturers often neglect the design of their frame mounts and many cyclists complain about their quality, especially those that come with the cheaper locks. A good frame mount should fix securely to your frame and hold the lock tightly so it doesn’t move about while you are riding.

However, there are many reports of mounts that are difficult to attach to the bike, not secure against the frame and unable to prevent the lock rattling about or even falling off when the bike is being ridden! So, if you think you will be using a frame mount to transport your lock, try to choose a lock that comes with a good one.

Of course you don’t have to use the frame mount that comes with your lock. You could carry it in a bag. However bear in mind that locks will get wet and dirty and some U-locks are heavy enough to make carrying them on your back very uncomfortable.

You could also put it in your basket or clip it to your luggage rack if you have one. You can even fit the smaller ones in your pocket! And because most of the normal mounts are so poor there are also lots of third party solutions. Holsters that go round your waist. Brackets that attach to your handlebars.

I just thread the shackle of my U-lock through my seat rails and then lock it up in between the seat stay and the seat tube. This keeps it pretty secure and out of the way. Whether you are able to use this method will depend on the type of seat and the size and thickness of your lock. However if your lock is too short to reach the space between the seat stay and the seat tube, you can always use velcro straps to secure it to the seat post.

What’s important, is that you think about how you’re going to carry it before you buy your lock. Because if you can’t find a method that suits you, then the chances are you will stop using the lock altogether.

Will it be your primary or secondary lock?

You will have different requirements of a U-lock depending on whether its going to be your primary (or only) bike lock or a secondary lock. If it’s your primary lock, it is responsible for making sure your frame is not stolen. So unless you’re using the “Sheldon method” of locking your bike (and I recommend you don’t), the lock needs to be big enough to go round your frame, your wheel and whatever you’re securing it to.

If it’s your secondary lock, then usually its responsibility is making sure your other wheel is not stolen. Depending on how you lock your bike, a secondary lock may only need to secure your frame to your wheel, and in this case can be significantly smaller.

Do you really need two locks? Well I talk about this elsewhere, but generally, yes, I think it will significantly reduce the chances of your bike being stolen.

The best U-lock for YOU!

OK, so now you know the sort of things you should consider when choosing a U-lock, lets look at some of your options. I have chosen three of the best U-locks in each of four different categories: the best standard size U-lock, the best mini U-lock, the best budget U-lock and the best secondary U-lock.

The best standard size U-lock

If you live in a high risk area then you need a really good lock. How do you know if it’s a high risk area? Well, if it’s a major city, a tourist center or a college or university campus, then it’s probably a high risk area. But wherever you live, if you ride an expensive bike, then you also need a really good lock. What’s an expensive bike? Well, for me anything above $650 / £400 is expensive.

In such cases, maybe you should look for the best protection you can get. The following locks are the most secure standard sized bicycle U-locks available today. The standard size (roughly 8″ x 4″) means you have lot’s of choice when you’re looking for places to lock your bike. Make sure you check the weight though, they’re pretty heavy…

The New York Standard is Kryptonites most secure, standard sized bicycle U-lock, boasting a 16 mm shackle with double deadbolt locking. It’s slightly narrower than it’s rivals, which makes it more secure, but also gives you less things to lock it to. It’s also the heaviest of the three recommended locks.

Like all Kryptonites locks it benefits from great after sales care, which in this case includes optional anti-theft protection up to $3000 / £1200. And like all Kryptonite locks it suffers from a poor quality frame mount!

Nevertheless, if you’re looking for the ultimate in protection without sacrificing the number of the places you can lock your bike, the New York Standard could be the best U-lock for you. A full review is coming soon.

The Brute STD is OnGuards most secure, standard sized U-lock and also boasts a 16 mm shackle but ramps up the lock mechanism to give you quadruple deadbolt locking! However, whether this makes it any more secure is debatable.

The real advantage the Brute has over its rivals is in the price. At almost half the price of the New York standard and much less than half the price of the Granit X-Plus 540, it’s an absolute bargain! In fact it’s only $10 / £10 more expensive than it’s budget brother the Bulldog. This is incredible value.

Yes, the after sales service may not be as good as Kryptonite. But if you’re looking for the ultimate in practical protection at a budget price, the Brute STD may be the best U-lock for you. A full review is coming soon.

The Abus Granit X Plus 540 is a bit of an anomaly. The shackle is only 13 mm thick, but because it’s made from a specific type of steel and is square rather than round, it’s strength is equivalent to much thicker shackles. This means that the lock can be lighter without sacrificing security!

So the Granit X Plus 540 has the same Sold Secure Gold rating as it’s two rivals but is much lighter despite being slightly bigger. OK, it’s also much more expensive than it’s rivals. But you get fantastic build quality with all Abus locks.

The best mini U-lock

If you’re looking for the highest level of security from a lock that is big enough to fit around a wide range of objects, the New York Standard, the Brute STD and the Granit X-Plus 540 are the best bicycle U-locks available today. But we know that smaller U-locks are more secure because they leave less space for a thief to exploit with tools such as hydraulic jacks. So for ultimate security let’s look at some mini U-locks.

The Mini Brute is simply a miniature version of the OnGuard Brute STD. It has the same 16 mm shackle and the same quadruple deadbolt locking.

What it doesn’t have is the same Sold Secure Gold Rating as its bigger brother. In fact Sold Secure doesn’t seem to have rated it at all. I can only assume that this is an oversight, as OnGuard give it the same in house security rating as the standard sized lock.

At 9 cm, it’s the widest of the three mini locks, giving you more options when looking for places to lock your bike. And the price once again is fantastic, costing half as much as both the Abus Mini and the Fahgettaboudit.

So if you’re looking for a small U-lock that offers the highest protection at a reasonable weight, without breaking the bank, this could be the best U-lock for you. A full review is coming soon.

The Abus U-Mini 401 Yellow is the smallest, lightest U-lock with a Sold Secure Gold rating available today. With a width of just 8 cm, it’s the narrowest of the three mini locks. It’s also much lighter, being nearly half the weight of the Fahgettaboudit.

This is clearly because the shackle is much thinner. You may see this lock advertised as having a 16 mm shackle, but in fact it has a 14 mm shackle inside a thick rubber casing.

Ultimately, this makes the 401 Yellow less secure that the other two mini locks and some may argue that it’s more of a secondary lock. While it is theoretically possible that this lock could be cut by the very biggest bolt cutters, I have never heard of this happening and with double bolted locking and a Sold Secure Gold rating I think it deserves a place here.

In fact, if you’re looking for ultimate security with the lightest weight and the smallest size, this could well be the best U-lock for you. A full review will follow shortly.

Be careful with the Abus mini U-locks though, the range is confusing. The Abus U-Mini 401 Yellow is the only one with a Sold Secure Gold rating. The Abus U-Mini 40/130 which is available in both red and yellow and looks identical to the U-Mini 401, is in fact lighter, cheaper and only has a Silver Sold Secure rating. It’s still a great lock at a very reasonable price but it’s not in the top tier of the most secure U-locks.

The New York Fahgettaboudit Mini is the only bicycle U-lock with an 18 mm shackle and is undoubtedly the most secure bicycle lock available today.

It’s only 3 mm wider than the Abus U-Mini 401, so it’s pretty narrow. But at 6 inches in height it’s the longest of the three mini locks. It’s double bolted, is the only bicycle U-lock that gets Kryptonites 10/10 security rating and is eligible for anti-theft protection up to $4500 / £2500.

However, ultimate security comes at a price. At 4.55 lbs (2.06 Kgs), the Fahgettaboudit is much heavier than it’s two rivals. In fact it’s the heaviest lock on this page!

With all mini U-locks you need to be very aware of the width and height measurements. These locks are really small. If you have a mountain bike with fat tires you won’t be able to fit these locks round the frame, a wheel and a bike rack. In fact, even if you have a more standard bike, you may sometimes struggle, depending on the rack. If you’re worried about whether these locks are going to be suitable for your day to day life, I’d suggest you draw out their dimensions on a piece of cardboard, cut them out and then try them out for size wherever you habitually lock your bike!

The best budget U-lock

Usually the more expensive a bike lock is, the more secure it will be. So can you really risk a “budget” U-lock? Ideally, you should spend as much as you can possibly afford on your bike lock. But if you can’t afford very much, then there are still cheaper locks that provide adequate protection if you ride a less attractive bike or live in a low theft area. If this is the case, a budget U-lock may be the best U-lock for you.

In fact, since the vast majority of bike thefts are by opportunists with limited tool sets, a good budget U-lock that is resistant to these tools can prevent your bike being stolen in the majority of cases.

The budget U-locks I recommend here are not the cheapest on the market. On Amazon there are U-locks for as little as $5 or £6! Please don’t buy these. Locks such as the Bell Catalyst 200 Pocket Bike U-Lock, the Mongoose Large Bicycle U-lock and the Strong Anti Theft Security Lock from MSC are NOT good quality locks. The mechanisms are cheap, the shackles can easily be broken with bolt cutters or twisted off with crow bars and the Bell and the MSC U-locks even use barrel locks which can be opened with Bic pens!

The three locks I recommend will provide good protection against opportunist thieves. Which one you choose will depend on your own circumstances and priorities.

The Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 is the classic U-lock. The 13 mm shackle should defeat all but the biggest bolt cutters. And Sold Secure give it respectable Silver security rating.

It’s well made, dependable and benefits from Kryptonites renowned after sales care which includes optional anti-theft protection up to $1500 or £800, replacement keys, and full refund if your key breaks in the lock. The only downside is the poor quality frame mount.

But if you’re looking for a practical bike lock for low to medium risk areas from a company that offers great customer service, the Kryptolok could well be the best U-lock for you. You can read my full review of the Kryptolok here.

The Bulldog is OnGuards equivalent of the Kryptolok. It also features a 13 mm shackle and a Sold Secure Silver security rating.

And while it’s also well made and dependable, it’s slightly lighter and cheaper than the Kryptolock. However, OnGuards after sales care is not as good as Kryptonites. And while the frame mount may be better than Kryptonites, it’s still not great.

But it’s such a good value, if you’re looking for robust, practical protection in low to medium risk areas at a discount price, then the Bulldog could well be the best U-lock for you. Read my full review of the Bulldog here.

The Cocoweb ArmBar is the new kid on the budget U-lock block. With a 14 mm shackle, it’s bigger, heavier and may even be stronger than the Kryptolok and the Bulldog.

However we don’t know how strong the steel is. And there is no after sales care at all. If you have any kind of problem, you’re on your own. On the other hand, it does have a very robust frame mount.

Indeed, if you looking for a strong, cheap U-lock with a dependable frame mount and you’re not concerned by the weight, then the ArmBar may be the best U-lock for you. You can read my full review of the ArmBar here.

The best secondary U-lock

Secondary U-locks are normally used to secure your front wheel to your frame. Or if the lock is big enough, your front wheel to your frame and a bike rack. As a secondary lock, it doesn’t need to be as secure as your primary lock. In fact, if you’re going to be carrying two locks around you want the second one to be as small and light as possible which means it will inevitably be less secure.

However, it still needs to offer adequate protection. And if you have a decent secondary lock, you can always use it instead of your primary lock with the Sheldon locking technique if you’re just nipping to the shops or going somewhere relatively safe. So lets have a look at the best secondary locks available today…

Three of the best secondary U-Locks

U-lock

Kryptonite Evolution LITE Mini-6

OnGuard Bulldog Mini 8013

Abus Granit Futura 64 150

Check Price:

Bar thickness:

11 mm

13 mm

11 mm

Weight:

1.65 lb (0.74 kg)

2.15 lb (0.98 kg)

1.6 lb (0.726 kg)

Width:

2.75" (7 cm)

3.55" (9 cm)

2.64" (6.7 cm)

Height:

6.0" (15.2 cm)

5.52" (14 cm)

6.0" (15 cm)

Sold Secure Rating:

Silver

N/A

N/A

Reviews:

Coming Soon!

Coming Soon!

Coming Soon!

The Evolution LITE Mini-6 is a relatively new addition to the Kryptonite range. It boasts a 11 mm hardened MAX-Performance steel shackle that has the same strength as the 13 mm shackles of the Evolution Mini-5, Mini-7 and Mini-9.

This means it’s as strong as some 13 mm locks but a fraction of the weight! At 1.65 lb (0.74 kg), the LITE Mini-6 is not quite the lightest of the secondary locks but it is slightly wider than the barely lighter 1.6 lb (0.726 kg) Abus Granit Futura 64 150. And although it’s not double bolted, you do get the famous bent foot design which makes it easier to use, 3 keys (one with LED light) and Kryptonites optional Anti-theft protection up to $2000 / £900.

It’s also very reasonably priced, so if you’re looking for a strong, light, good value secondary lock that could be also used as a primary lock under some circumstances, the Evolution LITE Mini-6 may be the best U-lock for you. A full review is coming soon.

The OnGuard Bulldog Mini 8013 is the biggest and heaviest of the three locks here. But not by much. It features a 13 mm shackle and is 2 cm wider and 1 cm shorter than the Kryptonite and Abus locks. And in fact, the extra width may help you to lock the wheel, the frame and a bike rack, giving you a little extra security.

But as with all OnGuard locks, the best thing about the Bulldog Mini is the price. It’s half the price of the LITE Mini-6 and a fraction of the price of the Futura 64 150. Once again, this is excellent value.

So if you’re looking for the cheapest, secondary lock around, one which could also be used as a primary lock if you’re really careful, then the OnGuard Bulldog Mini 8013 could be the best U-lock for you. A full review will follow shortly.

The Abus Granit Futura 64 150 is the smallest and lightest of the three secondary U-locks locks I review here. In fact it’s probably the smallest and lightest U-lock available anywhere.

The 11 mm shackle is double bolted for extra security. And Abus are renowned for making the very hardest steel and the very highest quality locks. However, you won’t get the anti-theft protection you get with Kryptonite and OnGuard. And it’s by far the most expensive of the three locks.

Nevertheless, if your looking for the smallest, lightest U-lock available today, and again one which could be used as a primary lock at a push, then the Abus Granit Futura 64 150 could well be the best U-lock for you. A full review is coming soon.

Summary

U-locks are probably the best way to protect your bike in the street, offering the nicest balance between security, price and practicality. But choosing the best U-lock for your bike is difficult. What size and how thick the lock should be depends on where you lock your bike and how long you leave it. How risky is the area? What will you lock your bike to?

The most secure U-locks are small and thick and heavy and relatively expensive. But if you need to lock your bike to big objects, you’ll need a bigger U-lock. And if you ride a low value bike and live in a low theft area, you won’t need a thick, heavy, expensive lock. So the best U-lock for you will depend on your circumstances.

The Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini is undoubtedly the most secure U-lock available today. But maybe it’s too small, too heavy or too expensive for your needs.

The Abus Granit X Plus 540 is a better all purpose lock. It’s not as secure as the Fahgettaboudit Mini, but it’s still rated Sold Secure Gold and it’s much bigger, much lighter and comes with a decent frame mount. Read our full Granit X Plus 540 review and let me know what you think.

However both of these locks are expensive. If you’re looking for high security at a budget price, then you should always look to OnGuard…

The Mini Brute is the OnGuard equivalent of the Fahgettaboudit Mini. It’s not quite as thick and it’s not quite as secure but it’s less than half the price! While the OnGuard Brute Standard is comparable to the Granit X-Plus 540. The build quality might not be as good and it’s significantly heavier, but again it’s less than half the price.

However, I would urge caution here. I think you should spend as much as you can possibly afford on a bike lock. Why? Well, firstly because it’s always better to be safe than sorry; you might not think you need a high security lock but a thief may have other ideas! And secondly, while you may not need a high security lock now, what happens if you move areas or upgrade your bike? A good lock, well looked after, can last for many years and many bikes. Maybe it’s better to invest once in a good one than to keep buying new ones every time your circumstances change?

If the locks on this page don’t meet your needs, have a look at this long list of U-locks. You can compare them for weight, size and security rating and hopefully you can find the best U-lock for you.

But whatever your circumstances, I would urge you to never choose a lock with a Sold Secure rating of less than Silver. Or if the lock is not rated by Sold Secure, the same in house security rating as one of their locks that is rated Sold Secure Silver.

I hope this page has helped you to find the best U-lock for your needs. You should also check out our article on wheel and seat security. And don’t forget to make sure you know how to lock your bike properly too! If you have any comments, suggestions or questions, please let me know below…

70 thoughts on “The best U-lock”

Not much know but somehow this lock seems to resist all that bad tools: http://www.litelok.com My bike is still at home, just can’t find proper (best) solution… Btw. Would be great if you could cover some of a GPS tracking and alarm systems. Seems to be cheaper than most of these locks and systems…

I wonder what your review would be of Tigr titanium lock. They make several but my husband and I have the two versions of the Tigr mini and mini plus. I also have an Ottolock as a supplement to add. I believe the two together are much lighter in weight and may provide more security. Would be interested in your thoughts.

I’ve already tested the TiGr mini and like it a lot. You can read my review here. It’s not super high security but it’s a great choice if weight and ease of transport are important and your risk level is not so high.

How are you finding the Ottolock? I’m really keen to review it. Seems like it might be a great choice for securing wheels or even as a cafe stop lock for racing cyclists.

Thanks for the info! I’m new to the bike scene and I’ve recently bought a road bike. Had no idea what kind of lock to buy, but now I’m pretty set on a U-lock. I’m eyeing the OnGuard Brute. Any chance you know the ETA of the full review for this lock? Many thanks!

I’m not sure when I’ll be adding a full review for the OnGuard Brute. But I can say now that it’s a fantastic lock.

It’s probably the best value, high security lock available at the moment. A 16.8 mm shackle that can’t be cut by any manual bolt-cutters. Double-bolted. Sold Security Gold. And at the moment you can pick it up for around $50 or £24. That’s incredible value if you ask me.

You need to check the weight is OK for your needs as it’s pretty heavy. And make sure you give it a regular clean and lubrication. But you can buy with confidence!

Abus u Lock broken in seconds This is just a few words of advice regarding bike locks.

Today, I returned to my bike to find the lock battered and smashed but luckily still in 1 piece. Unfortunately, the key would not longer fit in the lock so I had a small problem!

I managed to contact local security and after showing some ID they produced some bolt croppers and cut through my expensive ABUS lock in about 10 seconds!

My point is – any non D-lock style lock can be cut in seconds with bolt croppers. My ABUS lock cost £30 and I thought it was pretty tough. Luckily it saved my bike this time but after seeing the ease at which it was cut I’ll not use a similar one again. It was a thick braided cable cover in hardened steel shells.

I know d-locks can be broken too but not quite as easily. Take good care of your bike and get a decent lock!

Yep, even the armored cable locks like yours are very easily beaten. This is why I won’t recommend them. As you say a decent U-lock is usually the way to go. They are generally the most resistant to bolt cutters. But a good chain can also do the job, depending on your circumstances and the way you lock your bike.

I locked my semi decent older road bike (pre fixie craze which would make this bike a prime target now) with a braided cable lock which was about 3/4″ thick. I would put it under a street light locked to the same telephone pole support cable. The lock had a heavy vinyl covering which had battle scars ….several bolt cutter notches in it from multiple attempts to cut it. I switched to this lock after the whole kryptonite BIC pen fiasco where kryptonite took my info but never followed up on replacing my lock. I often wondered if the kryptonite U lock would have saved my bike on those attempts.

With their help I decided to buy an OnGuard Brute LS-8000, which is the big brother of the STD-8001. I use it along with a 7mm Abus chain like in the pictures from the links bellow. Just wanted to ask your opinion regarding this setup, especially the U-lock. Does it look too loose, allowing a potential thief to take advantage of that space in order to force the lock somehow or I’m fine like this?

On the other hand, the pole is pretty thin and the bigger U-lock might come in handy on some bigger poles. Also, my frame is a bit wider and the STD-8001 barely fits and presses unnaturally against the wheel.

I think you’ve done a pretty good job there! The OnGuard Brute is one of the most secure locks available today. And you’ve filled up most of the space inside the lock so it should be safe from leverage and bottle jack attacks.

If you’re worried about this you could try and fit the u-lock around the pedal crankarm as well. But in this case it might not fit. And I think it’s fine as it is anyway.

The 7 mm chain lock is fine as a secondary lock for securing you wheel to your frame and for a bit of extra security around the frame. But I’m a little bit concerned about you using it by itself “during day time rides”. I depends on where you’re riding and how long you leave your bike for and whether it’s out of your sight etc.

But a 7 mm chain can be bolt cropped quite easily. And it’s not Sold Secure Silver (or equivalent) so I wouldn’t recommend you use it in isolation.

Carl, your site and this article (along with several others I’ve read tonight) have been exceptionally helpful. Thanks so much for introducing me to 21st century lock products and helping me keep my new ebike more secure.

so i just got the Abus lock above as a 2nd lock and it scares me already. While playing around with mounting options, the key had troubles opening and closing the lock on more than one occasiou. Only time will tell if i’ll be left stranded somewhere with my own lock on the bike. …I searched reviews on this and there’s a youtube video of a guy getting help cutting his own Abus U lock from a bike locked to a high wall/fence. not a good sign. Secondly, the mounting bracket is ridiculously limited. I also feel it slides in backwards. you can turn it around but then the “clever” way of prventing the lock from accidentally sliding off no longer functions. ..it uses the locking bar itself, in locked position, to stop it from shaking off the mount so flipping the slider around disables this.

summary. it was the mini. the lock holder was an add on purchase. The lock in the video was probably a 40.

then i mentioned another video i stumbled that showed my lock where a guy opened 2 locks with the same key. Again, i totally believe this because the kryptonite evolution 4 had the same problem before they changed the key type in them. I also have first hand experience with this where I had 2 heavy cable locks, bought several years apart, that were shockingly keyed the same. it makes me think the bike lock makers are extremely lazy and probably only have 20 different keys for any given lock. I don’t see how else it would be possible to have locks opening with the same key. I keep meaning to go back to a store to try my various lock keys in all the locks. i would NOT be surprised if i opened one.

sk them how many of those 1.4M possible keys are they actually cutting. I’ll bet there are huge cost/manuf. savings in cutting hundreds of the same keys and lock cylinders then shuffling the shipments to differnet cities or stores. …or they could have cases of all unique cylinders, but duplicates of identical cases to be used sequentially in manuf. which would stagger their release to market over several years.

The various lock videos show guys in short uninterupted clips inserting keys and opening multiple locks. Like i said, i believe it, and i could make a video myself because I still have the 2 heavy cable loops that are keyed the same although i don’t use them anymore.

a search will bring up bike forum posts where other people were shocked to see their key opening 2 locks.

The abus key codes are 4, 5, 6, and 7 digits long. that means they’re using 10000 max key variations for the 4 digit code locks. …and i’d be surprised if all are used and someone has 0000 or 1234, or 1111 etc, the same way license plates do not use all combinations.

It would also be interesting to see what they manuf. have to say about this because it’s obviously a problem they’re aware of. Personally, i do NOT believe the “your lock is old and worn out” reasoning because there are door locks and things that have been around many many decades longer that do not open unless it’s the right key. I have keys for many homes where the same cylinder style is used on several doors and the only key that works is the right one. I suspect it’s a cost cutting measure.

Couldn’t find much information on Google. According to the description on Amazon it’s 16mm, but somebody asked how thick it is under the rubber and they answered 14mm. Still looks like a nice lock even though it’s a bit heavy and the price is not bad at all.

But it hasn’t been tested by an independent security organisation. And from reading the reviews it seems that not only is the metal shackle 13.8 mm rather than 16 mm, but someone was able to cut through it very easily with a pair of bolt cutters (because the key had failed).

This suggests the steel is probably poor quality.

So on the plus side, it’s cheap and it looks really strong (which will be enough to deter most casual thieves). But on the negative side you have to carry around something that’s very heavy and that’s probably not very secure in reality.

And for less than $10 more you could get the OnGuard Brute which is genuinely 16 mm and is Sold Secure Gold certified. (Although no frame mount or cable with the Brute).

Thanks for the reply! (glad I came back to check, no email notifications?). You’re right, I’d rather invest in a better lock. From the comparison chart seems like the Abus U-mini 401 is the lightest Gold rated lock, and right after is the OnGuard PitBull mini. Price-wise the OnGuard seems like a better deal. Do you have any preference?

Yes, the Granit X-Plus 54 mini and the OnGuard Pitbull mini are both great locks. The Abus is lighter and probably a little bit more secure. The OnGuard is obviously much cheaper. Either one is a good choice.

But I’m not sure about the Abus U-mini 401 Yellow anymore. I don’t think Abus still making it. I’m not convinced by the build quality. And I’m not even sure the weight I attribute to it is correct! I think the other two are better options.

I’m just looking for a budget lock for my 3-year-old bike. Mine just broken last week. I use the lock when I go to school and I don’t need an expensive lock. I searched on amazon and found several more cheaper locks such as this Enkeeo Bike U Lock (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GR6BFNG), it is stated to be made of heavy duty hardened steel with protective PVC coating, another one is DTLA Bikes U-lock with high temp conditioned high strength steel. I wonder if either of them could meet my daily use.

Hello Carl. First of all I would like to thank you for all your articles about bike security, it is really helpful. Also I have no doubt that for me the best standard size U-lock will be ABUS Granit X-Plus 540 due to its weight to security ratio. But I need some advice on the secondary lock. Initially I planned to buy Kryptonite KryptoLok series 2 995 Integrated 55cm Chain because I thought that for thief it would be more difficult to handle with locks of different types and also for me with a chain it would be easier to lock my front wheel not only to a frame but also to a bike rack (or something else). But due to it weighs 1.77 kg and have only 9 mm in thickness, I thought that it would be better to use some U-lock instead of chain. So after reading your recommendations about secondary U-locks I decided to buy Kryptonite Evolution LITE Mini-6 because it was thicker than a chain (11mm bar thickness) and much lighter (only 0.75 kg). But after that I found ABUS Granit Plus 640 with 12mm bar thickness and 0.86 kg weight. For me 100 grams difference is not noticeable, but Abus lock is double bolted and it’s a great advantage. Also Abus is a bit wider, which can be useful when trying to fasten the frame and wheel to the rack. And after that I have read comments to this article about ability to unlock different locks from one manufacturer with a single key. So maybe it is not a good idea to use two U-locks from one manufacturer (Abus in my case) and maybe it is better to choose Kryptonite in order to protect myself from the keys matching? I would like to know your opinion on this three secondary locks and possible pros/cons of using them with ABUS Granit X-Plus 540. Thanks.

I think that the Kryptonite Evolution LITE Mini-6 and the ABUS Granit Plus 640 are both great secondary locks.

I wouldn’t worry about the key issue. They 640 and the 540 have different cylinders so you won’t find 1 Abus key able to open both locks.

My advice would be to compare the prices. Abus is usually a little bit more expensive (depending where you live). If the extra width and slightly higher security level are worth the extra money go for the Abus. Otherwise go for the Kryptonite.

Hi Carl, what a great article, thank you for sharing your knowledge! Like Oleg, I was about to purchase the Kryptonite Evolution LITE Mini-6 but am now considering the ABUS Granit Plus 640, which is a $35 difference.

My questions are: is double bolt security a major factor in thwarting attacks, and does it have any disadvantages (since you mention that the bent foot design is easier to use)

I’m trying to find a decent option for our son that doesn’t use a key, rather a combination. Is that even an option? He’s autistic and tends to lose things (e.g. keys!) so looking for anything that may work!

Hi Carl, Thanks for the super-quick response. I think that will do the trick! We’re in the suburbs of NorCal and this would be for locking up at his elementary school on the days he can ride in. It’s well covered by cameras and the like so this will deter the casual opportunist. Thanks again (and great site!) Cheers, Adam

Thanks for the very informative website. I just bought my first bike since being a kid (a used road bike for around $350) and I’m looking for a lock to keep it safe. I live in New York City and I don’t plan on keeping it outside for too long. My apartment building has storage indoors as do many of my friends’ apartments.

Right now I’m leaning towards a mini lock. I like the convenience of having a smaller, light lock. Do you think the Abus U-Mini 401 will be okay for me? I’m also looking at the Abus GRANIT X Plus.

I bought the Kryptonite New York Standard but it just feels a bit heavy. I think I’d get used to it after a while but I’m not sure if I’d be gung-ho to bring the lock with me everywhere I go.

Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it! I think the Abus Granit X-Plus 54 Mini is the perfect combination between security, size, and weight. The only tough part is the price but I’m happy to pay for good security!

Great effort, but why nothing about password (not keys) U-locks? I want to know if they are secure enough to buy one. It’s terrible when you leave your keys at your job, and you are half the way home getting your bike at the train station…

Hi, I live in Uruguay, South America, so I have limited choices. Was looking for the on guard brute, and found it, but also the on guard pitbull, which would be best in safety? And which in comfort for carrying? Thanks a lot!

I am in Germany, Cologne. Not sure how the bike safety is in this place, but I ll mostly parking in the city. I have an Ebike and its insured. I am looking to buy a lock for it before I start using it. I want safety but if possible easy to carry. Was looking at the Brute, any other comparable options (safety and price) youd recommend? I have seen a Evolution 7 from Kryptonite, not sure how it compares. Not sure if its double bolted or how much lighter it is.

Also would consider another lock type if it offers similar safety to the Brute. My Only concern with the brute is people saying they are not able to open it after a while.

I thought about using a U Lock and then wrap a light chain lock around, on top, and between the U lock. Not sure if you understand my idea or if itll make it any safer, but in my opinion itd just make their cutting of a 16.8mm much more difficult. Or is it better to put the extra chain elsewhere?

Also do you have any ideas how to secure the battery (rack)? Thats the only thing id be worried about in the city here, at first sight, everything seems quite safe but I am not sure.

The Brute is a good lock. But you do need to apply grease now and again to the ends of the bars (that attach into the body of the lock). If you remember to do this you should be OK. You might as well use a Teflon based lubricant on the mechanism at the same time!

The only way the Brute is likely to be defeated is with an angle grinder or a leverage / bottle jack attack. Wrapping a smaller chain around the and through the U-lock won’t protect you from an angle grinder. But by reducing the space inside the U-lock it can certainly protect you from leverage attacks or bottle jacks.

I’m not sure about protecting the battery rack. Could you post a photo of the bike?

Its my first bike, so I dont really understand much of the related things. I am just going crazy with anxiety thinking of what I could be doing wrong or with selecting the right lock among all the selection. Bought the Brute, got it yesterday and havent used it yet. Its 20cm long, its looking a tricky to use it the way I thought I have to. By inserting it trhough the back wheel and frame. Since the width of the lock is just about 11cm, for some reason I thought my wheel and the frame next to it was about that size (when you insert it from the side rather than along the, not sure if I explain myself well there) but instead that part is about 14cm. Took the bike down to the street, in front of my building and tried testing parking my bike there. It was a bit tricky as I had to do it along the bike direction and the twist the lock to the side a bit to catch the street pole.

My question is, whenever i dont manage to do this. Is it safe to place just against the bike frame? For example the thicker middle park, where you have the brand name “Fischer”. The wheel at the back has its own built in lock.

Also would you recommend keeping the locking mechanism up instead of down? Thinking of that if someone uses a hammer against the mechanism its more difficult if its up. Not sure!

Sorry for all the questions, but one of the last one is. What extra as the secondary lock would you recommend and how would you use it on my bike? Been trying to find a chain, not too heavy and not too thing but its been hard. Most are 6mm and I heard that is pretty much useless. Seen an Abus Steel-O- Chain for about 30 euros, 7mm. Felt a bit heavier than I would want and not sure if it really adds safety with 7mm. Hopefully you have some ideas of a maybe better or lighter/cheaper lock idea.

Last one is: How would you lock my bike if you were using, best case scenario, with the Brute and a secondary thing.

Thank you so much! For all the time you take answering all of our questions.

This whole bike theft thing is driving me crazy. I still havent used my bike because of all this.

It really depends on how risky the area is and how long you’ll be leaving it for.

Since your rear wheel has a frame lock, you should be OK leaving the bike just locked around the frame. But what about the front wheel? Do the wheels have quick release skewers? It’s hard to tell from the photos.

Keeping the lock mechanism downwards will certainly discourage people trying to interfere with it.

As for a secondary lock, it will depend on what your going to lock with it. The front wheel? The battery pack?

If your wheels are quick release or use regular nuts (so anyone can remove them), I’d be tempted to replace them with secure versions. Hexlox are my favorite. But the gravity ones from Kryptonite, Abus or IXOW are also good.

This would keep the weight down.

If it’s for the battery pack then it’s difficult to tell what would work from the photos.

But my view is: with the Brute, the frame lock on the back wheel, and some secure skewers/nuts you should be OK. As long as the battery pack is not easy to remove and desirable to a thief!

I know you recommend getting a secondary lock, but would a U-Lock with a complementary cable be secure enough to say lock the bike near a public park for 3-4 hours? I don’t know if I would ever need to lock my bike any longer, 6 hours tops.

I prefer a lightweight lock that will fit the parts on my Spec Allez and budget friendly if possible

I would definitely be using a Sold Secure Gold lock on a bike like that. And 3-4 hours is a fair bit of time for it to be left alone by the way.

If the wheels have quick release skewers then a complimentary cable definitely won’t be enough. If you’re worried about the extra weight of a secondary lock, I’d recommend that you replace the quick release skewers. You can read more about this on my wheels and seats page.

Bought the Kryptolok series 2 only to find out it doesn’t fit with my water bottle inside my triangle frame. Also, I went back and looked at the reviews on Amazon and there were 500 critical reviews, many of which complained of their bike being stolen.

I will be returning the Kryptolok and looking for a better alternative that is light, Sold Secure Gold this time, and fits in my frame.

With these parameters and using your spreadsheet, I’ve narrowed it down to the Litelok and the OnGuard Pitbull mini, however in all likelihood I’m not going to fork over $140 for the Litelok.

I’m hesitant to grab the Pitbull mini as I’m not sure how limited the locking options will be in reality. I’m guessing anything over 3″ thick would not work with the mini u-lock.

So I checked out the wheels and seat security page and was really sold on HexLox by its elegant design, albeit not too thrilled to rid my new bike of the innovative quick release skewers that make wheel adjustments so quick and easy, but it would at least mitigate if not eliminate the associated anxiety of leaving your bike exposed to even the most simpleton thief who wants your desirable wheels and can have them in 5 seconds with a flip of the lever.

Assuming for the time being I just take the front wheel off and lock it together with the back wheel and the frame, eventually pulling the trigger on some HexLox skewers and possibly the full protection Kit, which frame lock would you recommend for both this short term and long term perspective?

After doing some more digging, the Pitbull mini is too small, but moreover the majority of Onguard reviews on Amazon mention degrading shell parts. I’m going to avoid this poor manufacturing quality.

I did lots more digging and have landed on the Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 as a cheaper alternative to the Abus Granit X 540. The sticking point for me is its heavy weight, but the next best alternative that offers the same security but lighter weight would be the litelok at double the price tag…:/

The Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 is a great lock. But I’d imagine you’re quickly going to get fed up removing your wheel every time you lock your bike up. And then once you buy some secure wheel skewers you won’t need such a big lock and the additional weight will be even more annoying (and pointless).

If you’re worried about weight and think the secure skewers are a good idea, better to get them now, along with a smaller, lighter lock. That would be my suggestion anyway 🙂