Nisar Hussain

Nisar Hussain Ali Sher (Aug 07, 1975 to Mar 09, 2012) was a mountaineer and high altitude porter from Sadpara village, Skardu, Pakistan. He cumulatively made ten ascents of five eight-thousander peaks in Pakistan. It’s the record number of 8000er ascents by a Pakistani. He was only third Pakistani to summit all eight-thousanders in Pakistan (5x8000ers). He went missing on Hidden Peak during winter 2012's unfortunate expedition lead by Gerfried Goschl. It was an audacious expedition to make first-winter-ascent of G-I and that too via a new route, of which Nisar was a full member (not HAP). Nisar was awarded with President’s Pride of Performance Award in 2012, for his mountaineering feats.

Alike many other children from that part of world, Nisar had to quit school after primary education. He worked as a shepherd to support his family. Despite being good at climbing steep walls, he wasn’t initially sure about mountaineering as a profession. But a discussion with his father, who was a trekking guide and expedition porter, made him understand the essence of mountaineering. He chose the climbing job and never regretted it. His first expedition was to Sia Kangri (7,422m) at an early age of 21. He summited along with three other climbers.

Hussain’s first expedition to an 8000er was 1999 South Korean Expedition to Gasherbrum II (8,035m), led by Lee Sang Bae. Being young at age, he was almost denied a chance to climb but his skill and fitness forced the expedition to decide otherwise. In fact, Koreans were so impressed by Nisar’s strength that they hired him for seven more expeditions. In 2004, Nisar Hussain went on to become youngest Pakistani to summit K2. He climbed all 8000ers without supplemental oxygen, as he used to say, “I rather feel miraculously better, as I go higher”.

Nisar Hussain, Gerfried Goschl and Cedric Hahlen went missing on March 9, 2012, during winter expedition to Gasherbrum. It was an amazingly brave attempt to make first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I; that too, to be done via a new path (never done in winter). They were also expecting to traverse to normal route for descent. Gerfried Goschl described Nisar Hussain’s inclusion in expedition as:

“Since we first knew each other in 2003, Nisar has been a close friend of mine. He has been personal HAP (high altitude porter) for my team members on Nanga Parbat, G2 and K2. Nisar climbed all 8000ers in Pakistan several times, always without artificial oxygen, and he set a new record last summer as the first to summit Pakistan 8000ers ten times (1xK2, 1xNP, 1xBP, 4xG2, 3xG1). No doubt he is the strongest climber in Pakistan.Of course he climbs for money (as do all HAPs) most of the time but it's also his passion. This winter for the first time Nissar will join a team not because of salary but because he wants to be part of the project. He knows G1 very, very well! Down the road we'll try to bring him as member in our Nepal expeditions since it's his biggest dream.”

On the tragic day of ninth March, there was a minute weather window that encouraged the team for a summit push. Nisar, Cedric and Gerfried were last seen on the way to summit by Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab (Adam and Golab were attempting G-I via normal route). It's assumed that strong winds pushed the trio down the ridge. Several search efforts were made but they were never found again. Nisar was awarded President’s Pride of Performance Award, later this year.