E-Type V12 Engine Removal

December 26, 2018

Spring, 1979, marked the completion of a one and a half year restoration of a 1962 E-type. The original cost and ownership of the Jaguar was split between my brother and myself. This arrangement worked well as long as the car was out of commission. Restoration costs, labour, frustrations, etc. were shared equally. Once the Jag was completed though, the easy to swallow shared workload concept became a bitter pill when the exhilaration of driving this E-type had to be shared. By the fall of 1979, 1 had sold my interest in the car to my brother. We decided that our partnership consisted of one too many partners.
A diehard E-type fanatic like myself cannot be without one for very long. I wanted to try something slightly different though V12 power. In April 1980, I bought precisely the model I was searching for: a 1972 Series III E-type roadster. The prepurchase “flight” check showed everything to be in relatively good condition, considering the mileage and price. The transmission seemed noisier than I might have anticipated, but, having never driven a V12 E-type before, I had nothing to use as a guideline. The summer driving in general and the October Kavartha rally in particular convinced me that this noise was not only uncharacteristic of V12 power trains, but it was also becoming noticeably worse.
Most E-type owners are aware of the fact that major transmission or clutch repairs require pulling the engine and transmission as a unit. I have been told that, by removing the rear mount and lowering the rear of the engine/transmission unit, the bolts around the bell housing can be reached without removing the whole assembly. I have not seen it done this way, nor have I tried it, so I cannot confirm that this method works. I have seen E-types where whole sections of the transmission tunnel and floor have been cut away such that the transmission could be removed without disturbing the engine. Considering that the E-type is built around a central stressed steel monocoque, this kind of “shortcut” should be avoided at all costs. In iffy case, the discovery of a slight head gasket leak on the engine convinced me that there was only one option – remove the whole engine and transmission unit.
The sight of a V12 E-type engine compartment can be very intimidating to first time spectators. It is awesome enough just sitting there. The task of removing that sucker brings on the image of manoeuvering a bull through a china shop.

Outsiders assume that only one of three types of people would tackle that job:

(a) a highly trained and PAID professional;
(b) someone professional or not, who has done it several times already and survived; and
(c) a first time novice, whose seven day pass from the local institution is about to expire!

Combination of the above is considered to be an asset.
The first and most important step is to acquire a factory manual. The British Leyland “Repair Operation Manual” is the best and is worth the extra cost relative to trade manuals such as Clymer,Haynes, Chilton, etc. It is available through Jaguar dealers. Every step is quite clearly described and amply illustrated.
Most of the hands-on procedure is quite obvious. The number of items removed before actually lifting out the engine depend on the reason for removing the engine in the first place. In my case, a complete drivetrain overhaul and body restoration was decided upon, so I removed as many parts as I could before I disturbed the motor mounts.
Begin by driving the car onto 6 to 10″ high ramps.
Disconnect the battery and remove the bonnet.
The engine will come forward and out through the front, so everything ahead of the power plant must come out. This means draining the cooling system, disconnecting all hoses and wires from the radiator and header tank, and removing the radiator/fan/cowl assembly. If your car has air conditioning, the condenser and compressor must be removed before the radiator can be detached. This must be accomplished without disconnecting any portion of the air conditioning system.
Withdraw the front cross member, upon which the-header tank is bolted. Detach all wires that run to the oil pressure sender unit, starter motor, and alternator, having marked their location.
Disconnect the two hoses from the heater and the hose running between the left intake manifold and the brake vacuum reservoir. The air cleaners must be removed. This will allow you to loosen the choke cable pinch bolts at the right and left hand carburettors. Pull the left choke cable out of the clips which are attached to the cross over pipe.
Detach the throttle cable from the pedestal mounted on the engine behind the distributor. The hydraulic clutch system must be disconnected and this is best done at the bulkhead or firewall bracket. Unbolt the power steering pump on the left side of the engine and swing it aside. The air pump on the right should be removed altogether.
A carbon canister is mounted on the right hand side footwell facing forward into the engine compartment. The pipe connecting this canister to the balance pipe must be detached. The balance pipe can be identified as the pipe which runs to all four carburettors and spans the top of the engine.
The last operation within the engine compartment for now is the removal of the left and right hand fuel lines at the cross over pipe connection.
It may appear as though the work is nearly over, but it only now begins in earnest. The second stage takes place beneath the car.