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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Ok, here's the Kowalski doll... I'm sorry that I only have this one photo, but for some reason, all the others came out terribly blurred - and the winds were giving us fits and he wouldn't stay upright LOL. I'll try and get some more (and better) pics soon. His feet are oddly positioned in this one, but it's the only way we could get him to stand up in the winds :D

For the most part, he's very similar to the other two, with a few differences such as height and he's a little skinnier and the wings are of course a bit longer. I'm going to take a bit of a break before attempting to work on Rico, my wrists are giving me a bit of trouble after working on these three so closely together, but I won't take *too* long to get Rico up here as well.

As always, if you find any problems in the pattern, or just get confused, let me know here and I'll get back to you ASAP.

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white, with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll. As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through, it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable. It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part, and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in the next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in last sc (42)
Rnd 7-40: sc in each sc around (42)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly but don't overstuff. Shape body while stuffing, continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 41: sc in next 19 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 19 sc, dec over last 2 sc (40)
Rnd 42: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 43: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 44: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 45: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 46: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 47: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)
Rnd 48: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 49: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 50: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 51: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 52: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 53: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O Add any stuffing needed to finish out shaping. Weave tail through final round of stitches, tug gently to close opening. Secure end and weave in.

WHITE BELLY PIECE:

Using white yarn:

Rnd 1-6: same as for body
Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (42)
Beginning with row 10, you will no longer be working in rounds, but in rows. At the end of each row turn your work so that you'll be working back across the stitches you just made. I personally do not use a turning chain, but make my first sc in the very last sc of the previous row. This creates and stronger and cleaner edge for the stitches later.
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc. Turn your work (40)
Row 11: sc in each sc across, turn (40)
Row 12-30: repeat rows 10 and 11. (until you have 20 sc across)
Row 31-32: repeat row 10 (16)
Row 33-36: sc in each sc across (16)
Row 37 and 38: 2 sc in the first sc of the row, sc across remaining scs (18 at end of row 38)
Row 39-40: sc in each sc across (18)
Row 41: slip stitch in first 4 sc, sc across 10 sc, turn (leave remaining sc unworked) (10)
Row 42-44: sc in each sc across (10)
Row 45: sc in next 5 sc, turn, sc back across the 5 sc, turn, dec over first 2 sc, sc, dec over last 2 sc. Slip stitch down the sides of the rows just worked back to the row with 10 sc. Sc in next five sc, turn, sc back across the 5 sc, turn, dec over the first 2 sc, sc, dec over last 2 sc. Slip stitch back down to the row of 10 sc, Slip stitch to secure and F/O. Weave in your end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece. Sc in same stitch as joining, and sc evenly around the sides. Work 3 sc in each of the outside 'corners' at the top of the piece. Following the shaping around, sc evenly back down the other side to beginning, join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: * chain 5, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain. Skip one sc, slip stitch in next sc * , repeat * to * twice more (for three toes). Secure and F/O weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes. Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle, whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges. Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

(On this particular character, the leg portion is purely optional. Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet, but once in a while you do. I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part. I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body, as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1: chain 6, join to form a 'ring'. Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc, join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2: Chain 1, sc in same stitch as joining. * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * repeat from * to * around to beginning, join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3: Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining. * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * repeat from * to * around . F/O and secure tail, weave in end.
(when working the leg, you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok, just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc (14)
Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc, sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, (hcd, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc, sc in last 2 sc.
F/O. Flatten and shape beak as desired. I did find that for Kowalski, a tiny bit of stuffing (mostly in the center portion to fill it out better) worked well for the overall design of this doll.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn (4)
Row 2-4: sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-24: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 25: sc in first 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (5)
Row 26: sc in each sc across (5)
Repeat rows 25 and 26 until 1 sc remains.
F/O. Weave in end. (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing. This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretched up towards the top of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown. I found with Kowalski that a tiny bit of stuffing in the beak gave it a shape more consistent with the character. Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue (I recommend E-6000 as it is very strong, washable, and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown and positioned as you like. I used a little sewing thread to tack the wings in the positions you see in the pics here.

Kowalski and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

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Comments:

Wolfdreamer, you're amazing. I just have to say that every so often. Do you know how hard it is to find a GOOD penguin pattern? And here you have THREE with a fourth on the way that are positively spectacular! Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us.

Hello my name is Irene and follow you from Spain. I would make the penguins my brother to love but Please can you tell me which means "dec over last 2 sc" Since in the dictionary "Dec" stands for December. My mail is irene.rgimenez @ gmail.es. Thank you very much beforehand.

thank you, you completely made my day when I found these patterns! I love penguins and I've been looking for decent patterns that weren't knit. and when I saw that it was the Madagascar penguins, I had to remind myself that I'm at work and I couldn't scream "PENGUIN!!" like I wanted to. I love these!!!

In round 16 of the turtle pattern (legs) you will sc in each of the first 7 sc, then (leaving the remaining sc unworked) chain 7 and then slip stitch that chain to the first sc of that round.

In round 17, you will then sc in each of the 7 sc you made in R16, and also sc in each of the 7 chains you made. (this will now give you 14 sc for round 17, and there will be an opening where you made the chain 7)

Rnds 18 and 19 will then combine to create the 'hip' of the leg. This hip allows for easier placement of the legs and more flexibility in choosing the positioning (it also gives the 'muscular' look to the legs that's characteristic of the turtles :D

The hip area is lightly stuffed (not as much as the legs are stuffed) to give the 'hip' a slightly rounded natural muscular appearance.

I FIND IT HARD TO BELIEVE I HAVE JUST DISCOVERED YOUR BLOG!!! YOU ARE A VERY CREATIVE DESIGNER.THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HARD WORK. I AM CONSIDERING YOUR BLOG DISCOVERY AS A EARLY Christmas PRESENT TO MY SELF.

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