Assignment Photography and Syndication

Gallerist

Categories

This entire site ⓒ 2005-2011 The Sartorialist.
All of the photographs herein, unless otherwise noted, are copyrighted by the photographer. No part of this site, or any of the content contained herein, may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without express permission of the copyright holder(s).

Thursday, December 21, 2006

January GQ - DeNiro Cover

My new GQ page just hit the stands. In this issue I highlight the "no-tie" (or as Adam from GQ says "air-tie" look) that I have been seeing again on some cool guys on the street and on the runways of Paris and Milan.

Also my good friend Mory makes an appearance on the page! His part is pretty funny (and racy), you gotta read it - even if it is just while you are standing in the magazine section of Barnes & Noble.

Am I the only one, though, who finds the "cutaway," belt-buckle-revealing jacket effect bizarre? Why would one want a jacket that drew the eye down to one's belt buckle, which is most properly concealed?

Anonymous said ... (10:46 AM) :

This is an indie-rock/jpop trend, originally (I think) to mark a formal but alternative space between the regular frat guy unbuttoning of the first button and the yuppie professional use of a tie. Well as Baudelaire or Benjamin says, the flaneur is the spy of capitalism!

Anonymous said ... (11:01 AM) :

The tie-less suit looks pretty good, but I still prefer a tie.

Anonymous said ... (11:27 AM) :

The Young Tom Verlaine?

Anonymous said ... (11:49 AM) :

I don't get it. It doesn't look stylish to me. It just looks like he didn't finish getting dressed.

The tie-less look is very poor and lazy looking, and I have never seen it pulled off very well other than Tony Shalhoub on the TV show Monk; and the only reason it works for him is because it is part of the character he plays on TV (he is obsessive-compulsive and cannot unbutton just one button, and I think he has some sort of tie phobia).

It still doesn't look very good on him either, but it works.

lintmag said ... (12:42 PM) :

love a skinny guy in a skinny suit and the no-tie is fine with me, but i have a total dislike for shirts with plackets! cannnnot stand them. this is just my own personal weirdness - i think they end up looking cheap 95% of the time...

It's a young look, and the only way I'll let the ironing job on the shirt go by.

Anonymous said ... (3:16 PM) :

I just can't get into this look; it reminds me too much of those kids in junior high who buttoned their shirts all the way up (and had pocket protectors and were in the A/V club, and ... need I go on?).

This may be able to work with a sport shirt (as opposed to a dress shirt) but this (with a dress shirt) just looks like a failed attempt to get by without a tie.

Anonymous said ... (4:08 PM) :

I've always felt that the tie-less look is good with a button-down shirt , but not with a straight collar ( which works better with a tie ) ... and vice versa... what are your thoughts ??

JJ

Anonymous said ... (4:11 PM) :

As usual, you have to be sickly skinny to look cool in NYC. He would look absolutely dorky wearing a necktie.

David Lynch has been doing the buttoned-up tie-less look for at least 20 years. it has a sort of arty/studious feel on the right person.

Anonymous said ... (10:45 PM) :

I always thought Steve Martin could pull this off in the late 80's but few others...(God knows I tried)

Anonymous said ... (6:00 AM) :

Not 100% sure, but the shirt looks like one from Dries Van Noten latest collection...

Anonymous said ... (11:06 AM) :

I have been going "air-tie" all my life...except a bow tie in special events. I think it looks great if you wear a nice shirt with a great collar and maybe a special buton row or hiden buttons. I agree it is only for the lean-framed but I΄m one of them lucky ones...

divak said ... (11:48 AM) :

The look is good but loses its freshenss when you button up the top button on the shirt and forces a sense of deliberate coolness, which in my opinion is not that attractive in a guy.

But the ensemble is quite stunning. Is this a Neil Barrett suit?

Anonymous said ... (3:04 PM) :

i do enjoy the short jacket and the slim fit, but indeed does it have to expose the buckle like that? perhaps the short jacket would work better with the trousers worn at the waist with a good rise. that would probably solve all our problems (short rise, buckle, shirt under bottom).