So I got a new Goat with lots of power. Anyone on here knows the stock drivetrain won't stand up too well to 700+. After putting in a Tick Lvl 4 M6 (broke that within a month; destroyed the input shaft and various other parts), figured the drivetrain needed some upgrade love too. I had sent my first set of axles (LVL 1s) back after selling my first Goat and got some LVL 2s due the new ride's power. After weighing available center section options, decided the 9" was the best route for longevity. Casey at Gforce was super cool as I went from one set to the next and he worked with me through all my changes. Awesome customer relations! They have gotten lots of phone calls from me, so much that he picks up the phone and say "Hey Chris, what can I help you with?". Caller ID? Went with 3.50 gears and the trans has F-body gearing. I didn't want to go too extreme.... for now.

Started the build since I had a freeway breakdown, kinda forced my plan to expedited. One of the spreader plates on the driver outer axle swung out and sliced my brake line. Enter the tow truck. Decided to put the 9" kit, coilover relocate kit, toe rods, front BC's, and a bunch of bushings on my back on the garage floor. I took my time but I am also slower due to my lack of experience. I am on week 3. Not an everyday task. A few hours here and there and a weekend. The knowledge I have gained may never be used again but at least I know how my car goes together.

Tow home that started the project. Always sad to see her on a flatbed. This was the third ride since I have owned her.
It has to be red. End of topic. Check the new design on the stubs - retaining plates integral to the assembly.
Pulled the entire rear and went to work sanding the cradle and knocking off all that rust from past years. I hate rust.
All cleaned up and ready for installation.
Getting closer to completion.

Driveshaft and exhaust going on next. Front suspension goodies and then it's off to the alignment shop.

Yup. Those are the BMR units. They stiffen the chassis GREATLY. In that pic the car is up on four jackstands but really it is only sitting on three. The driver rear isn't touching, rails sit off it by 1/4 inch. It's there just in case but it has been up on stands for two weeks and hasn't touched yet. Speaks volumes for how much they stiffen up the car. Garage floor isn't level but the car didn't care. The plates in the rear did make it more difficult for me to get them mounted after the fat Whiteline bushings went in. And red... cause it has to be.

BigTex - I thought I was the only one with that issue with having the bmr sfc and the car only sitting on 3 outta 4 jack stands. Had my car up like that all winter while I was doing stuff and never touched the 4th stand and yet the car never moved.

BigTex - I thought I was the only one with that issue with having the bmr sfc and the car only sitting on 3 outta 4 jack stands. Had my car up like that all winter while I was doing stuff and never touched the 4th stand and yet the car never moved.

Good way to check your floor for being level.

Quote:

Originally Posted by leong6gtp...

I hate you....Looks like a really nice piece. How much did it set you back with the options you chose?

Too much. Went the whole 9 yards, didn't want to leave anything to chance since I plan on beating on this set-up. All the prices are up on the Gforce1320 site. I did the 35 spline S-Trac and the CF shaft. Not cheap but knowing it is lifetime warranty is a good feeling.

The mini-tub is on hold till next year.... I have to find someone I feel comfortable with before I let them cut my car up. There are places around here that are capable but I want someone with experience doing it on this car.

Too much. Went the whole 9 yards, didn't want to leave anything to chance since I plan on beating on this set-up. All the prices are up on the Gforce1320 site. I did the 35 spline S-Trac and the CF shaft. Not cheap but knowing it is lifetime warranty is a good feeling.

The mini-tub is on hold till next year.... I have to find someone I feel comfortable with before I let them cut my car up. There are places around here that are capable but I want someone with experience doing it on this car.

We do mini tubs, we also keep mini tubs in stock. They are patterned off the mini tub we have in our shop car.

Thanks fellas. Exhaust didn't fit quite right and it is going to need some "massaging" to fit. The drive shaft sits lower than before and contacts my mufflers. The drivers rear pipe is also right up on the pumpkin. That ain't gonna work. It's going to a shop next week to get tweaked. So much for the do it by myself initiative.

Everything is all done! Woohoo!!
The exhaust needed a little cut and reweld action. The 9" was a crowd draw in the shop since its such a sweet setup. It's a shame to hide such great work but... Race car!

I have limited ground clearance now with the way the mufflers had to be pushed down. Might have to redesign it down the road and go with an axle back setup. They hang lower than the BMR SFCs so I will have to be wary of speed bumps and raised manhole covers. Will post pics once I get her up on a lift again.

Everything is all done! Woohoo!!
The exhaust needed a little cut and reweld action. The 9" was a crowd draw in the shop since its such a sweet setup. It's a shame to hide such great work but... Race car!

I have limited ground clearance now with the way the mufflers had to be pushed down. Might have to redesign it down the road and go with an axle back setup. They hang lower than the BMR SFCs so I will have to be wary of speed bumps and raised manhole covers. Will post pics once I get her up on a lift again.

The set-up is really sweet. No fears of breaking things anymore. I firmly believe it will take all I can throw at it and not even flinch. I haven't put more but about 600 miles on it so far and haven't taken it to the track yet. I was planning on it last weekend but after my tuner said I was running a bit lean up top I decided to play it safe and get it right. I can't limit myself to 5500 rpm shifts; I don't have the will power for that. I am waiting on some ID 1000's, a Revxtreme Monster catch can, and a 180 tstat before I get the tune retouched. By the time I get that done, all the tracks within driving distance are going to be down for the winter. Bah!
It looks so beefy - I have been accused of stealing the rear end out of a Farm-All tractor. (That's my favorite observation) Along with the 9", I also replaced the rear bushings with Whiteline and I have yet to get any wheel hop. It is pretty easy to break traction with 700hp, but no wheel hop, just spinning! Gear noise from the diff is louder than what I had stock but it isn't bad. Perhaps more miles will quiet it down. The Nitto's don't bark but rather an eraser on sandpaper sound. Keeps me from blowing my cover.
For anyone doing the 9" and you have a BMR loop - mine DID NOT FIT. It worked fine when it was the 3.5" aluminum and stock rear. It was welded in using the locating holes. It might work if you put it in after the 9" but it will be tight with a CF shaft. The new pinion angle is lower on the 9" making the BMR bends less than accommodating. Not knocking BMR at all. When you change a bunch of stuff like I did, it just doesn't work as designed. I cut it out and am currently running without one. I'm going to get a custom job before I get out to the track, but I would hope any savvy tech inspector would see carbon fiber and realize it won't present a failure risk. Who knows? Good luck looking under the car Mr. Inspector, it's low. I have to jack it up to put it on a lift as the arms hit the SFCs.

There were a couple things I didn't/couldn't do due to lack of skillset. I had a shop "massage" my exhaust system to fit around the lowered driveshaft. Also had a shop change out the slip yoke on the CF shaft so it can mate up with the T-56 Magnum Viper output shaft. I can't weld and I wasn't going to jack up an expensive driveshaft trying to learn.

Thanks to Casey and Chris at GFORCE1320 for all the support during my build process. I must have called like 20 times with silly questions while putting it together and not once did he make me feel like a dumbass (which in hindsight I was at times ). This was my first attempt at something on this scale. I learned a bunch doing this project. Before this, the most I ever did was change spark plugs and brake pads. If I can do it on jack stands in a tiny garage, pretty much anyone can. This forum has so much good info and was crucially instrumental during all the work. If you can turn a wrench and read you can do this too.

The only negative with the 9" set-up is that it will encourage you to beat on it relentlessly without fear of failure - wait, is that really a problem?

The set-up is really sweet. No fears of breaking things anymore. I firmly believe it will take all I can throw at it and not even flinch. I haven't put more but about 600 miles on it so far and haven't taken it to the track yet. I was planning on it last weekend but after my tuner said I was running a bit lean up top I decided to play it safe and get it right. I can't limit myself to 5500 rpm shifts; I don't have the will power for that. I am waiting on some ID 1000's, a Revxtreme Monster catch can, and a 180 tstat before I get the tune retouched. By the time I get that done, all the tracks within driving distance are going to be down for the winter. Bah!
It looks so beefy - I have been accused of stealing the rear end out of a Farm-All tractor. (That's my favorite observation) Along with the 9", I also replaced the rear bushings with Whiteline and I have yet to get any wheel hop. It is pretty easy to break traction with 700hp, but no wheel hop, just spinning! Gear noise from the diff is louder than what I had stock but it isn't bad. Perhaps more miles will quiet it down. The Nitto's don't bark but rather an eraser on sandpaper sound. Keeps me from blowing my cover.
For anyone doing the 9" and you have a BMR loop - mine DID NOT FIT. It worked fine when it was the 3.5" aluminum and stock rear. It was welded in using the locating holes. It might work if you put it in after the 9" but it will be tight with a CF shaft. The new pinion angle is lower on the 9" making the BMR bends less than accommodating. Not knocking BMR at all. When you change a bunch of stuff like I did, it just doesn't work as designed. I cut it out and am currently running without one. I'm going to get a custom job before I get out to the track, but I would hope any savvy tech inspector would see carbon fiber and realize it won't present a failure risk. Who knows? Good luck looking under the car Mr. Inspector, it's low. I have to jack it up to put it on a lift as the arms hit the SFCs.

There were a couple things I didn't/couldn't do due to lack of skillset. I had a shop "massage" my exhaust system to fit around the lowered driveshaft. Also had a shop change out the slip yoke on the CF shaft so it can mate up with the T-56 Magnum Viper output shaft. I can't weld and I wasn't going to jack up an expensive driveshaft trying to learn.

Thanks to Casey and Chris at GFORCE1320 for all the support during my build process. I must have called like 20 times with silly questions while putting it together and not once did he make me feel like a dumbass (which in hindsight I was at times ). This was my first attempt at something on this scale. I learned a bunch doing this project. Before this, the most I ever did was change spark plugs and brake pads. If I can do it on jack stands in a tiny garage, pretty much anyone can. This forum has so much good info and was crucially instrumental during all the work. If you can turn a wrench and read you can do this too.

The only negative with the 9" set-up is that it will encourage you to beat on it relentlessly without fear of failure - wait, is that really a problem?

Now somebody come up with wider fenders so we can have 335's!

Excellent!
Glad you got it all installed. Now go beat the hell out of it at will

Only thing stock is my rear diff and I want that wavetrac. I've already got the outer stubs, botl together level 2 inner stubs and level 2 halfshafts with carbon fiber DS. Outer stubs stay the same but the inner stubs, Australian 3.91, harrop cover and CF DS all have to be swapped. Curious if you buy any of this stuff back? The stubs and halfshafts have no miles on them and wondering what it would cost to go to the 9" so I can get the wavetrac and not have to ever worrry about the rear end. I also have your toe links. Would those stay the same or need to be swapped out. Feel free to shoot me a pm on what kind of money we are talking.

Not knocking BMR at all. When you change a bunch of stuff like I did, it just doesn't work as designed. I cut it out and am currently running without one. I'm going to get a custom job before I get out to the track, but I would hope any savvy tech inspector would see carbon fiber and realize it won't present a failure risk.

BTW Chris.....Hint hint..... I don't think this is that big of a deal. You just need a longer bottom bar. You can probably use the top loop, don't know for sure

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanadianGoat...

Curious if you buy any of this stuff back? The stubs and halfshafts have no miles on them and wondering what it would cost to go to the 9" so I can get the wavetrac and not have to ever worrry about the rear end. I also have your toe links. Would those stay the same or need to be swapped out. Feel free to shoot me a pm on what kind of money we are talking.

A year or so ago it was right between 6k and 7k with the Wavetrac which is over 2 grand. However, the Wavetrac has a lifetime warranty. You can sell quite a bit of your OEM stuff on the board. Especially if it is upgraded. The CF DS should be in demand as well as the stubs hubs and other components. Not sure about the toe links.

Shaking/vibrating/rattling more is actually a bonus to me. I enjoy the Parkinsons effect at a stop light while the car belches out fumes of unburnt fuel from its monster lopey overlap. To me, thats muscle car.

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