The Sommelier Update is an educational blog on wine, beer, spirits and food. It started in conjunction with the Arrowhead Wine Enthusiast club, but has rapidly gained an international following from those interested in learning, enjoying and having fun with food and wine. Weekly articles on advice, service, pairing ideas, recipes, education and consultation, from a Certified Sommelier and wine educator.

How are your memories?

Memories remain a whole life, things just don’t.

My wife and I recently celebrated our 31st
wedding anniversary. Over the years, gifts, cards, flowers and the occasional
dinner out were the norm. This year we went with the dinner out plan, but did a
little twist that will remain a positive memory.

A month ago, I wrote about a great wine pairing dinner we
had at the Lake Arrowhead Resort. Since then, I have gotten to know Chef
Rodriguez, and have been impressed with his creativity and skill as a chef. As
a Sommelier, I am always looking for intriguing wine pairings. So, this year, I
called Chef Rodriguez, and asked if he would be working on our anniversary
(which he was) and would he break from the regular menu and create a dinner
experience? He was excited for the challenge. The only thing he asked was if we
were allergic to anything (thankfully, no).

Tempura avocado with Cuban Ceviche

When we showed up at the Bin 189 Restaurant, I had two
bottles of wine in my carrier. I never told the Chef what I was going to bring
(adding to the challenge). He anticipated a white and a red (correct), and
further anticipated a Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (close). This night I
brought an older Pouilly Fuisse, the 2005 Chateau De Beauregard (Chardonnay)
and a bottle of 2008 Sea Smoke Ten (Pinot Noir). When I revealed the wines, the
4-course dinner was described, and the Chef made his adjustments to the recipe.
What follows is a recap of the meal.

The Chateau De Bearegard Pouilly Fuisse was deep gold in
color, just what you would expect from a 10 year old Chardonnay. The acid was
still present, and the wine had aromas of melon, pear, honey, minerals, just a
touch of oak, and a somewhat petrol taste, that only an aged Chardonnay can
produce.

The Sea Smoke Ten was opened early, to get a bit of air into
it. I wish we had decanted it, as it was still a bit tight. This was a medium
weight Pinot Noir, with notes of cherry, earth, and vanilla. Medium plus
acidity, but a bit “hot” on the alcohol side.

The first two courses were paired with the Pouilly Fuisse,
and both worked wonderfully. The first course was a Tempura Avocado with Cuban
Ceviche. The tempura batter was made with rice flour, giving it a very delicate
crust, which gave a nice contrast to the creamy avocado inside. The Cuban ceviche
included serrano peppers, apple and cilantro stocks (as the chef explained…the
stocks give more flavor than the leaves).

Seared Ahi with Ponzu sauce

The second course was seared Ahi on a bed of greens. The Ahi
was encrusted with a simple pepper and sesame mixture. Once sliced over the
greens, a ponzu sauce added the finishing touch.

Venison with blueberry risotto

For our third course, the Chef made some changes to his
ingredients, to better pair with the wine. While it was a single course, my
wife received a different entrée than mine. We ended up sharing between the two
of us. My wife’s course was a perfectly cooked venison tenderloin with a
blueberry risotto accompanied by asparagus. My course was a beef tenderloin
served over garlic/cheddar mashed potatoes, but here is where things took an
interesting turn…the chef added huitlacoche to the sauce for the beef. Huitlacoche
is also known as “corn smut” and fungus that grows on the corn kernel, similar
to a mushroom. The flavor is very earthy, almost as strong as a truffle. I
found it funny that the chef just happened to have some of this on hand, as if
he was just waiting for the right moment to use it. To his credit….this was the
right time. A wonderful addition to pair with a Pinot Noir.

Beef tenderloin w/ huitlecoche and garlic/cheddar mashed potatoes

Bananas en fuego

Our final course was dessert. Chef Rodriguez served us his
take on Bananas Foster, which he referred to as “Bananas en fuego” . Instead of
the normal rum, he used a rough Tequila. When lit, the remaining Tequila flavor
is stronger than a fine Tequila. The bananas were served with dolce a leche (a
freshly made caramel ice cream.

What will you do on your next anniversary, or celebration?
If it is something special, you will remember the experience for a longer time. Important memories last forever, and simple experiences like a dinner challenge
with your favorite chef can conjure up a smile on your face each time you share
it with your friends. I hope this experience will inspire you to create some
great memories.

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About Me

Jim Newcomb is a certified Sommelier, having completed his level III certification/diploma with the International Sommelier Guild (ISG) as well as the ISG Teacher Education Program (TEP). He currently is a wine educator for the ISG. He is the founder and president of the Arrowhead Wine Enthusiast Club. Additionally, he passed "with distinction" the Level III, advanced study course, with London based WSET (Wine & Spirits Educational Trust) Jim is also a contributing writer for the Organic Wine Exchange, and Wine on Wheels, as well as a frequent guest on Grape Encounters radio program. He is now working with the newly formed International Sommelier Alliance (ISA) as a textbook writer, instructor, and adviser.