Hey guys, I'm sure this has been gone over a few times, but I have lots of questions I still haven't found the answers too after searching for a couple days. I have a manual GT, with 295/45/18 nitto n255s on the rear and 255's up front, stock besides a K&N. So far I'm really liking it, and I plan to go to the local drag strip soon and get some 1/4 mile runs in. I plan on some basic bolt ons but have a few questions about each...

Gears: my tires are a little over an inch taller than stock, will 3.73's put me back in stock range? (3.55) and if so would 4.10's help my 1/4 time or make me shift again before the end and hurt my times?

Offroad x pipe: Will this provide a boost in my 1/4 mile, and regular driving, or will the difference be minimal, I would get a tune for this as well...

Tuner: this is a no brainer, it will help with power and any future mods, so I don't have too many questions about it, other than if any of you saw anything improved in your 1/4? I already have a CAI just not a tuner yet

After these few things, are there any other mods that add power or would help shorten 1/4 times, that would go in a logical order with this? Cams, longtubes etc I'm hesitant about because I worry that for the money they won't be worth the power they add, but someone correct me if I'm wrong! This car is a daily driver but having it mildly modded for dragging seems fun FI is not happening any time soon... and Nitrous scares me because I don't wanna blow an engine, as safe as everyone says it is...

Anyways, any insight you more experienced people have is greatly appreciated!

If you're going to stick to N/A then Steeda under drive pullies, Steeda CMRC delete plates, long tube headers, if you're going to change gears go for 4.10's, try some cam shafts that match you other mods too.

+1 on cams and LT's. They work well together as does the CAI & custom tune. A stand-alone CAI is near-useless and only gains 3-5 RWHP. A CAI & good custom tune yields about 20-25 RWHP. Cams and LT's also yield in the 25 +/- range.

UDP's yield a few, freed-up single digit RWHP as does an aluminum DS. Any weight loss you can do helps, as some folks have done the rear seat delete and other weight loss mods.

LCB: You'll need to harness your power. Lower Control Brackets(LBC), not a LCA, which is an Arm. LCB's will lower the attachment point of your LCA to form a virtual triangle that'll plant your tires and limit wheel hop and speed you-up.

Shifters: Any short throw with a single or double bottom bracket will help you, miss a shift and your out. MGW, Barton and Ford Racing. Cheap is cheap, but these three are very expensive, and will almost shift the feared 2-3 for you.

One piece Driveshaft: Not sure which one you have? Also throw a braided steel clutch line on if you have a hydraulic clutch, not sure of yours. Catastrophic failure are expensive$$$, so bomb proof your driveline up front if you can. I'll up grade my diff shafts to "Alloy", Clutch - Stage1(has to be a D/D), if you're clutching it up, might as well do an Aluminum Flywheel to save some time and cash. I also believe that might be a good time to put in Long Tubes. Other way around and you will have to take them out and in twice$$$

Posi-traction: The Posi is a Ford stock?(cheapest?) I hear Boss has T2 because it's been pointed out to me as good for the track not so good for the strip. So Detroit, Yukon, and Auburn? I'll go with Yukon, middle cost, strong? I'll find out. I'm trying not to break the bank and yet cover all the weak points.

I'm also going to mount a Swarr-bar to help with launches. See AM under suspension.
Don't take all the weight out of your trunk, you'll loose traction and spin to much.

I've put the Boss intake on my 2013, you have a 4.6, FRPP makes an improved intake that's like the Boss and the Shelby "Black Lung".

Tunes: It cost more but I prefer to have a custom shop tune my car after major mods. Then I have it dyno-ed to ensure all is right and then I get an accurate Brag-able hp#.

I don't know S/C(Blow) or NOS(Spray) so I will leave that to others. I just want a dependable car and S/C and Spray sound complex and explosively short lived.

Tires? I need a D/D so Nitto Evo 555 are the most $$$ so they must be good? Right?

Don't know much but poking around this site helps, like I'll do Clutch/Fly at same time as LT's. Also slicks seem to find any and every weakness in your drive-line.
Later

4.10s are awesome! The car is always on the edge of launching hard. $400

Long tubes/off road x pipe made a huge difference in how quickly the car reacts to throttle input. $750

Both mods will require a tune, which itself will make a huge difference. $150

I also got lower control arms for a better launch, they help alot. $150

I did all that for a total cost of around $1450 and can put lengths on a stock GT in the 1/4th. And all these mods can work along with future supercharging if you do them and plan to do that. Word is N/A cams aren't so great with supercharging so if that's your plan, it could be best to hold off on those.

If boost isn't an option, get serious about suspension, tires and weight loss. A good set of fats and skinnies, a front swaybar delete, LCA's and relo brackets, lightweight driveshaft, etc. Don't worry about adding power until you can put it to the ground.

with how tall my tires are I definately need 4.10s. I'm on the fence about getting new tires though because mine have very slight weathering (they're 4 years old but only have 8k miles on them) and I'm thinking with doing some 305/40/18 in the rear, would that be too much tire?

since you are just starting to mod the car, keep it simple. IMO your best bang for the buck would be:
CAI
4.10
LT headers
LCA & UCA
and a good tune, you will be very happy with a simple comb like that, and you bolt on that stuff on yourself with the expection of the gears, and you would need to find some to tune the car.

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