Description

A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock.

Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face.

Location

This climb is located in an area just North of the Phoenix Wall. Approach by hiking to Phoenix and traverse back right along the base of the cliff passing 100% Beef, a 5.13 project and Condor (all in the Watt's guide). Blackened is the first bolt line right of the parallel cracks of Condor, it climbs a steep white face with closely spaced bolts.

Protection

This climb can only be 11d if you do the contrived version of staying directly on the bolt line without taking advantage of the obvious stems and rests out right. There is no way it's 11d if you follow the path of least resistance to the chains. All the same, sweet climb.

If you stay to the right, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d described here... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes.