So now that iv been playing awhile iv come to appreciate dx plastic more. Dx rocs and aviars have become a staple in my bag. But iv yet to dabble in drivers. What are your favorite fairway and distance drivers in dx plastic. And what kind of weights do you use? Max weight on windy days and what on calm days?

Frankly dx and over speed seven do not mix unless you want a roller. Tb and Eagle are the best dx discs out of drivers.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

DX Wraith/Destroyer go far, but they break into rollers too fast. DX Firebird is good - first as a meathook and after some damage as a stable control driver. DX TB and Gazelle are my favorites out of DX.

Spoken like a Discraft sponsored player hehe. Driver Pro is medium grade plastic that is surprisingly durable despite not being candy. Way better than x plastic. I have had a 166 pro Beast stay like new for three years including tree hits.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

JR wrote:Spoken like a Discraft sponsored player hehe. Driver Pro is medium grade plastic that is surprisingly durable despite not being candy. Way better than x plastic. I have had a 166 pro Beast stay like new for three years including tree hits.

Elite X is harder than Pro, and more durable in my experience, but not by much. Not a fan of either. I don't like feeling a torn up rim and edge every time I throw a disc, especially drivers.

Sanding helps with rough edges. X in Comets Buzzes and Storms is more pliable malleable and less durable than driver pro. There are softer Pro blends than the X though.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

I don't like the idea of discs degrading from day one to the point of needing constant replacement. Not only the plastic, but the flight is degrading the whole time too with base plastic. What for? The mfgrs have an obvious incentive to saturate the market with several plastic variants of the same mold, price point factoring in too.

As a disc golfer, it makes sense to me to just move on to the good stuff and not have to deal with cheap plastic and its rapid wear. If Champ or Star is too overstable for your favorite disc, either go down in weight or find another similar mold in premium plastic. There are now more molds than ever to choose from and so much overlap, that it shouldn't be a problem. You can then use your favorite disc(s) for years instead of months.

The founder of this site Blake_t answered that question in detail in one of the stickies.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

You mean the advantages of the same mold in new, slightly worn, and beat condition? I prefer having discs of different stability in the bag that won't change with use, FWIW. Example of my current setup: QOLF, Lucid Renegade, Champ Roadrunner...Champ Teebird, VIP Underworld...Z Hornet, Proton Tangent, Proton Anode...base plastic putters.

With ever better flying premium plastic disc becoming available all the time the benefits of cycling base plastic discs become fewer. For me having the same shape in the disc for left straight and right shots is not mandatory nor sought after but it might be for some. Base plastic tend to have ok grip tackiness wise and recently there have been tackier and tackier primo plastics and rubber becoming available. Price depends on the mold and how often you lose discs. Rocs are very long lasting in dx. At least is you can live with sanded smoother damaged discs. Putters and mids ladt longer and still around rocks and broken glass dx will not last.

I have had a z Pred get sliced a fifth of an inch deep on the first throw probably from hitting broken glass hyzered. Lose a disc and base plastic is cheaper but it takes a longer time to break it in where getting more discs and cycling longer or giving discs to friends to break them in.

I have never been exclusively and mostly not much of a cycling player. I have tried it and with each year i can fill the gaps even with tacky discs that are primo. I have always made by with primo discs with occasional blow ups. The danger of which gets less each year.

Even primo discs change especially on rocky courses. Some molds and slower speeds last longer than others. Leos in champ are slick in adverse conditions but last years.

I would go as far as saying that now people can manage to be lazy and buy just right flying primo discs that are not compromises in grip and durability. Is this the first year for that i think not if you can manipulate flight.

Edit late turns are not easy to get with primo discs but are easier with base plastics. That difference has not been bridged so well.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.