CHEAP EATS: WHERE TO EAT FOR LESS THAN $13 AN ENTREE

Riverside Restaurant piles value on the plate

December 21, 2006|By Renee Enna, Tribune staff reporter

First impressions: From the street, this plain brick building looks like a generic, breakfast-served-all-day joint. Perhaps that's why we have been driving past it for years without noticing the fine print on its sign: "Bohemian and American Cuisine."

Inside, it's clean, homey and pleasant--but that's not what we noticed. Our eyes flew past the cozy interior with its oilcloth-covered tables and colorful paintings of European vistas to rest on a far more compelling image: "Look at the size of those dumplings," my companion whispered in awe.

On the plate: Bohemia, Chicago-style, surfaces on two levels. First, the menu: roasted meats (chicken, pork, duck), goulash, sauerkraut and many Central European specialties are offered. Second, the value: The ratio of quantity (see dumpling reference) to price would get a smile out of Scrooge Act I.

Entrees, most in the $7-$10 range at suppertime, include a basket of fresh-baked rye bread; soup or tomato juice; choice of dumplings or potatoes; choice of sauerkraut, red cabbage, beets, vegetables or applesauce; dessert (kolacky, turnovers, strudel and more) and coffee. There's also a selection of beer and wine and, just as vital, two sizes of carryout containers. You'll need them.

At your service: On weekends, you might wait in line; this place is no secret. Service is prompt and gracious, though on one visit we had trouble communicating with our waitress, who did not speak much English. (It did not hamper the meal.) A battalion of busboys keeps the tables clean, and the pace brisk.

Second helpings: The duck was falling-off-the-bone tender, and the thick, perfectly seasoned gravy complemented it--and anything else that it touched. It's easy to warm up to the Hungarian goulash, a special offered four nights a week; its chunks of beef are complemented by a thick, just-peppery-enough gravy and perfectly cooked noodles. The stuffed cabbage, the size of a football, arrives bursting with a salty-peppery meat filling of ground beef and pork. The whole shebang is covered in a thick, savory tomato sauce that we (being Italian) would happily put on pasta.

For sides, the sweet and sour red cabbage (it's worth the $1 extra) strikes a perfect yin-yang balance. As for those dumplings, Riverside's are almost light enough to be called fluffy--if you could call a dumpling fluffy.

For dessert, skip the ice cream and order a cheese turnover or poppyseed strudel; both have the rustic look of homemade and--like everything else, including the bread--is made in the kitchen.

Take a pass: The soups are fine but on the bland side. The sauerkraut-lover thought his side was too soupy.

Extras: A page of specials is listed daily. Understanding that some appetites are daintier than others, many meals are offered in smaller portions.

Art hopping: "Spindle," the Dustin Shuler sculpture of a multi-car pileup, gets all the attention at Cermak Plaza Shopping Center (Harlem Avenue and Cermak Road, Berwyn), but this well-worn strip mall is filled with people-friendly found-art sculptures that, like "Spindle," often make a not-so-complimentary statement on strip malls. We love the irony, even as we're walking into Party City or Marshall's.

Scenic route: Historic downtown Riverside is always lovely but especially during the holidays. From the restaurant, drive north on Harlem to Burlington Avenue; hang a left and drive straight into town. (Be sure to leave the way you came. It's easy to get lost amid Frederick Law Olmsted's winding streets.) Cap off the evening with a flight at Parallel 42, an elegant wine bar (34 East Ave., Riverside, 708-442-8661, parallel42cafe.com).