Maison Margiela / Resort 2013

Search a show by:

It’s a broad way of looking at things, but when it comes to resort, you can put almost any designer into one of two camps: traditionalists, who embrace the season and its usually quaint nautical themes, and those who prefer a conceit that is a little more, shall we say, unexpected?

No prizes for guessing where the forward-thinking Maison Martin Margiela fits after presenting their resort 2013 collection in New York earlier this week.

As we saw in their fall runway show, the very un-resort concept of retro-chic power dressing (what the house itself describes as the “statement shoulders” look) was again the starting point for the label. Although there were dashes of sportiness, it all came together best when they mixed the mostly slender pants ensembles with coarser fabrics and detailing.

Take the blue two-piece suit, for instance. Although it’s not a replica of a disco-era original (unlike the Studio 54-evoking shrunken tuxedo jackets that are a recreation of a piece from 1970s Rio, of all places) it strikes a practically flawless menswear-inspired silhouette nonetheless, mainly thanks to the rough raw denim finish that gives it a sturdy, constructed feel. Get a little closer, in fact, and you’ll see the tan pumps that complete the look are actually festooned in an even rougher shaggy hemp—a trademark Margiela quirk if there ever was one, even if it is on a micro scale compared to the famously high-concept Cousin Itt wig-coats of the house’s past.

On the whole, though, this was a predominantly sleek and wearable collection, which took shape in the form of the neutrally toned daywear finished with billowing silk. But wait, what’s this? A single pair of wide-leg white cotton sailor pants? Maybe we shouldn’t throw out the idea of Margiela doing a nautical-themed resort collection just yet.