If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

I did that very same thing to my helmet, but I used flat latex paint. I mixed the colors and sprayed it on with an aerosol can hobby air brush delio. Then to give it that multilayered look I ripped off a piece of foam and used it almost as a dry brush to dab on lighter and darker shades of similar colors, the dabbing prevents brush strokes, the latex paint is water clean up, but the thing I didn't necessarily care for was the fact that masking off the silver portions left a little ridge around those areas. You can soften the edges a little. Also to cut out the shapes of the masked off portions I bought very wide tape, stuck it to wax paper, drew the shape, cut it out then just peeled of the wax paper and stuck it to my helmet. It keeps the scissors from sticking to the tape, or you can use an x-acto.

Here are some pics of the different layers of paint I've been using. I still have to paint the range finder and smalller detailsand coat with a matt finish. I used liquid latex masking for the battle damage.

All the paint layers stick together well. I will use a plastic sealer and matt finnish. I can still make scatches in it with a sharp tool (finger nail) before it's seald , but it doesn't flak off or scorn when lightly scratched with fingernail.

I've heard one or two people say they've used duplicolor brand paint. Now, that's car paint. It's going to have those silvery flecks in the paint. Is that what people are going for? Or does fett just have flat normal paint? I'm getting tired of all this debate. But I guess it's for the better. Thanks for your input.....

That's what I thought ( drab paint) , but I looked at a few places to find Duplicolor paint without the silver flecks. Couldn't find it. I guess I was just double checking before I messed up my paint job. Thanks.

Model shops here in the uk carry HUMBROL [fraid i dont know for definite if its state side as well, probably is,if not i'm sure TESTORS do the USA equivalent]aerosols...these are geared for modeling so come in matt finishes among others...thereis definitely yer basic fett green...perfect stuff for armor....
For ALL primer work I use HALFORDS GREY PRIMER which is ACRYLIC based and goes down on virtually ,in fact any material you can think of,ESPECIALLY vinyl [whereas enamel based paint may set but will not work as well and will flake or rub off depending how unlucky you are]...
My helmet is styrene[ yu know ,kit plastic]but is painted the same way I'd paint a vinyl one.
Glitchcoat; dust grey acrylic based primer lightlyover the piece[id never bother with white unless i woz using a bright color that did not cover well on top and then it would only be a dust coat ontop of grey,...also grey shows glitches far better]
fullcoat;..a serious spraying of primer gradually until the thing is one uniform color...if you have a good automotive acrylic primer it will be dry enough to handle inlessthan 1/2 an hour
silver;...any silver you think looks right from the acrylic based car spray rack...shake it + blast it ![short bursts and dust ALL aerosols on,YOU NEED TO AVOID ALL POOLING + RUNS...if it does run dont worry,leave it to dry at room temperature over night + sand the run gently back + respray...easy!]
the thing you are painting should now be silver,sooth where u want it so +dinked were u want to..
liquid masking;...this is a thin consistency,paint on latex ,some times purple,some times white depending where u get it [model/art shops] take as long as you like painting any where u want to be a silver chip/scrape with this stuff...don't just use the bristles or you'll end up with blobby liquid shaped chips..use the pointy brush handle /cocktail stick etc to draw blobs into chips/scrapes.......do some...come back..do some more,when happy,leave dry
[try not to leave latex masking on ,particularly, matt paint finishes for much longer than over night as it may discolour the paint beneath...this can be used as an effect.....acrylic car spray probably wont be affected if its dryed over night...its bullet/blaster proof!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=""> ]
spray yer body colours....on most armour this is EMAMEL [humbrol]matt green...leave dry
on some panels i'd noticed yellow in the chips [the gut]so for those pieces i lightly sprayed on SPRAY FILLER PRIMER some times called SPRAY PUTTY [great stuff if you want less sandingand are lazy like me!] which happens to be yellow!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT="">
remember,this is on top ofthe masking u did...
you'll be able to see where u masked[the latex sticks up]so touch up round the edges ofwhere u masked + a few places u didnt ,like before ...cocktailstick etc...
when happy let dry... hour or so inside or out if its hot and spray with yer green....evil grin!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT="">
let dry for a couple of hours or over night if u can RESSIST!
start peelin /rubbing of the masking...its like a cross between chicken pox + christmas morning [without the itch]!!!
RESULT...chipped scrapped worn armour with real flakes of paint and odd little bits of masking that will amuse you days later as you find them!
<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=""> If anyone is still awake after that ,have fun and maybe this is of use,...bye...<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT="">

I always clear coat my work to protect my finish and bring all the colors together that need to be, I use either Testors clear flat or gloss. For Fetts helmet you definatly want it flat.
You won't have that many layers all in one area.
For Fetts helmet, I would not even worry about it if it gets scratched,chipped,wears, or get's dirty, it will only enhance it in the long run. It is supposed to be beat up....
Lynn

Maybe I just don't know what I am doing when it comes to clear coats but after spendinghours and hours weathering on eof my Sonic Beam weapons I decided to clear coat it to protect the look I had achieved. Biggest mistake I have ever made. The clear coat smoothed out a lot of the scratches (real scratches not painted on) and just completely obscured all the fine weathering detail that I had worked on. I was very disappointed to say the least. Any ideas on what went wrong? I will say that I gave it a pretty heavy coat...

I used a Krylon Clear Coat spray on my helmet between every color that I used. That way I ensured that the colors would stay. It came out fine.

I think I may have noticed some of what Braks is talking about with the REAL scratches being filled in. I simply scratched it again. Let's be realistic here, it IS Fett. He's SUPPOSED to be scratched up. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=""> I actually dragged mine all over the cement floor of my cellar. It worked!

BB... A clear coat will do that as you are painting over what you did no matter how thick or thin you applied the paint, the more paint applied however is in proportion to how much detail to the real scratchs that will be lost. If you plan on doing real scratchs, I suggest that you do your paint work (minus scratchs), but dirty it up paint at this point with chalk, charcoal, etc., clear, than go and add your real scratchs and then leave it be. You "should be" now able to just go over what you did and redo them.

Scott...
For big things, I use the spray can paint. If I need to do small items, I'll use brush.

Clear coats are a must on charcoal or chalk type weathering, I use these almost exclusivly when I dirty someting up and I have great results.
The clear will lock down the chalk dust, the trick here is to try and mist the coat or so on and let it dry then hit it with a heavier coat. If not the dust can and may puddle and blotch up and look funkey.
I will also using misting techmiques in place of chalk dust.

Well today i almost completely sanded my Boba Fett helmet to convert into a Jango one... ive got a couple of questions though... should i sand the helmet so no paint is on it at all? (i hope so cuz i almost already did) And how can i sand into the little tight corners of the helmet like where the red part and silver part meets on the side, or the little slots on the back? Also.. my helmet got damaged so there is a crack in the front. What should i use to fix this?

You don't need to remove all the paint, but if you did, that's ok. Sanding it enough to rough it up is sufficient. Then, just give it a good coat of grey, black or red primer.

To sand little nooks and corners, just fold up some sandpaper and hit it enough to rough it up.

As for the crack...cracks can easily be repaired using various techniques. Bondo, miliput, 2-part epoxy resin or even super glue (I highly recommend Zap A Gap - found in hobby shops) will often work wonders.

As long as the existing paint is adhering well, I don't see any reason to sand it all off. I would sand it with 220 grit to "key" the surface, spray a coat of sandable primer, a light sand with 400, repeat, & you should have a perfectly smooth surface ready for paint. As far as the crack goes, that depends on what material the helmet is made of. Fiberglass for fiberglass and for vinyl? Look for a product that provides a molecular bond over a mechanical one, it will be stronger. I know some plastics actually have to be welded. Maybe someone else here has more info.