These are what i'm using for the install. I plan on using piggyback terminals and quick disconnects for the install, since I really don't want to be cutting into wires. I think the 40a SSR might have been a bit overkill but I just pieced out everything from an existing thread. For the sensor, I'll have to pry it out of the bolt, but that shouldn't be too difficult. I've thought about attaching the thermo bead once it's out, onto a washer lug, but not sure if that's even necessary.

All that's really left is deciding on a project box, and a heat sink if necessary.

What are some options about steam control? It would be nice for the machine to stay at steaming temp throughout the process.

SSR is fine, normal is 25 as you probably know. Sensor is fine and easily replaced if it does not come out of the bolt. You can get the thermocouples without a bolt quite inexpensively.

Steam can usually be done by alarm function on the controller. Skene method can be used by having the steam switch turn on an AC-DC power supply such as cell phone or headset supply. that then gives a DC supply to be controlled by alarm and to SSR with diodes to separate the lines. Page 1 on the thread has the Skene site link. Depending on the wiring, the steam switch can be unplugged from AC and can run the + side of a 9v battery with leads to alarm and then SSR like Skene, and the other method is to use an AC-AC SSR and run the steam AC power to that via the alarm.

Thanks so much for the info. I'm going to look inside the machine tonight and see if there's a good place to mount the SSR. The auber boxes look nice, but are fairly expensive. Especially with shipping.

D4F Said:

That all looks good. I believe that this box can fit the PID controller. You need 2x2x5+ IIRC. The tight spot is between the posts. I have not found many that are compact.

SSR is fine, normal is 25 as you probably know. Sensor is fine and easily replaced if it does not come out of the bolt. You can get the thermocouples without a bolt quite inexpensively.

Steam can usually be done by alarm function on the controller. Skene method can be used by having the steam switch turn on an AC-DC power supply such as cell phone or headset supply. that then gives a DC supply to be controlled by alarm and to SSR with diodes to separate the lines. Page 1 on the thread has the Skene site link. Depending on the wiring, the steam switch can be unplugged from AC and can run the + side of a 9v battery with leads to alarm and then SSR like Skene, and the other method is to use an AC-AC SSR and run the steam AC power to that via the alarm.

Hmmm. Ideally that is plenty of space, but after opening mine up, I noticed that most of the space by the top two bolts is taken up by the funnel that is on the top of the machine where you pour water into. There might be enough space next to the terminal.

D4F Said:

SSR behind pump on the floor over the tank? I am only seeing a picture.

I could not tell from the picture. Case side over the terminal block, or case/top on the removable top beside the funnel. From the pictures I cannot quite visualize the funnel in 3D. On the Gaggia I leave it under a counter and do not use its fill funnel but fill by sliding the water tank forward when I have the waste/drip pan out to clean. You could also use the top of the warming area inside high over the terminal if flat enough. It seems that case or top mounts will need hole(s) drilled to mount the SSR. Not a big problem, but probably a necessity, that is why I was looking at the floor.

I looked at the Partsguru diagram and think that I understand the funnel 3D now. Not a tapered funnel, but a box with a tube through the floor to the tank??

I could not tell from the picture. Case side over the terminal block, or case/top on the removable top beside the funnel. From the pictures I cannot quite visualize the funnel in 3D. On the Gaggia I leave it under a counter and do not use its fill funnel but fill by sliding the water tank forward when I have the waste/drip pan out to clean. You could also use the top of the warming area inside high over the terminal if flat enough. It seems that case or top mounts will need hole(s) drilled to mount the SSR. Not a big problem, but probably a necessity, that is why I was looking at the floor.

I looked at the Partsguru diagram and think that I understand the funnel 3D now. Not a tapered funnel, but a box with a tube through the floor to the tank??

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