I’ve recently began working with shellac. And while I’ve been able to achieve a finish that is pretty smooth to the touch but still hazy and not all that glossy.

I’ve tried the following so far: FFFF pumice, rottenstone, wet or dry sandpaper (up to 2,500 grit), 3M micro finishing film, and an automotive polishing compound. With the pumice and rottenstone I’ve used paraffin oil and mineral oil as lubricants. I’ve tried a felt pad, old t-shirt, cotton rags, and muslin. I’ve also tried Minwax finishing paste wax and that seemed to scratch it as well.

None of this has worked so far. I can still see the scratches in the shellac in the right light and it’s more satin than glossy.

So I’m looking for how to get it to a very glossy mirror finish.

I’ve run into a couple of ideas but I wanted to solicit feedback and suggestions.

First, I could get micro mesh up to 12,000 grit. After using the 2,500 grit sandpaper I’d probably switch to 4,000 grit micro mesh and go up through the grits to 12,000. I’ve heard mixed reviews on this process.

I try using different car polishing compounds. The kind I used was, I think, too rough. It was Turtlewax premium (silicone free) polishing compound. I’ve read about people using certain Meguiar’s products such as show car glaze and Scratch-X.

So how do you folks get to a really high gloss on shellac? What technique or products do I need?

What I’m trying to end up with is a very high gloss finish that is kind of mirror like. I’ve heard this is possible with shellac.

Thanks.

The shellac I’m using is Rockler blonde shellac (de-waxed). At the moment, a 3 pound cut.

French Polish has its place, but I don’t know where. With finishes available that will produce the desired results without the drawbacks of shellac, I can’t appreciate the incentive to learn the process.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

French polishing has a place precisely because it is traditional.It has taken a lot of flak, not unlike hot hide glue, over the years from people who haven’t bothered to try it. Also like hide glue, most of these criticisms are unfounded.It does have a learning curve but when did “easy” become a synonym for “best” or even “good” for that matter? Another important advantage of french pohish is that it produces a fantastic reversible finish.Ever try reversing a “modern” finish?

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

I think this is an application problem. Maybe with your brushor spray method.

I recommend french polishing. It is something you can dosort of halfway, like a wiping varnish, to build up coats.

That said, you can french polish over any shellacked surfaceand the alcohol will “melt” the layers together. It’s thepressure of the “rubber” (fr. “tampon”) than compressesthe finish and makes it smooth and lustrous. As morecoats build, friction happens and the finish can tearup, which is a hassle to repair. So we add a little oilto lubricate the rubber and this helps it slide and nottear the finish. Then when the polish is done the oil finds it way to the surface as the shellac cures and after awhile you can “spirit off” the oil with alcohol on a clean rubber.

It’s really not that hard to do but it does take timeand when you are learning you will not have a feelfor when to add some oil and you’ll tear the finishsooner or later.

This is my understanding from experience. While Idon’t consider my skills at french polish any more thancapable-level, I learned pretty quick how not to tear the shellac and that is the major hazard. Everythingelse about it is forgiving.

I believe the scratches are appearing between sanding/polishing of the finish. The wood underneath is not perfectly flat and blemish free. I spent forever planing and sanding the stuff and at some point had to just start building. Madrone doesn’t have a lot of open pores so I think I got lucky there in not needing grain/pore filler (which I don’t have).

I have no doubt that this is an application problem. This is my first time using shellac and it shows. I’m going to try out french polishing on the next project. Or rather, practice first. At this point I was looking for a way to put a super high gloss on the shellac already laid down. Sort of like paint on a new car.

My expectations may also be insane, I grant you that.

I’ve been able to achieve a high gloss with polyurethane. That didn’t even require sanding between coats. But the tradeoff I noticed is that the poly seems to make the piece look it was dipped in plastic.

I’m trying out finishes that are new to me to try and get some experience and skill with them.

I don’t have spraying equipment. Finish gets put on by brush or by pad.

If you are applying finish with a pad, then french polish should not be a problem for you. The trick is to make a nice good pad and have two bottles for application, one with the shellac and one with alcohol. If the pad starts sticking to the shellac, apply a couple of drops to the pad surface. I have seen people sand in between coats, but like Loren said, you can just apply one on top of the other layer until you get the desired gloss.

For lacquer I use 3M polishing compound, it leaves a mirror surface. Maybe it will work for shellac.

-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.

That’s an interesting idea. Perhaps dewaxed shellac doesn’t take as good a shine.

Cars are kind of the world I come from as well. I’m not an expert detailer or anything but I’ve polished/waxed/buffed up the paint on my car many times.

When I put the final coat of wax on I’m using Minwax paste finishing wax. Buffing out the wax seems to damage the shellac. It’s as if the shellac coating is too soft… Perhaps I need a softer wax to use as the final protective coat.