Sunday, November 6, 2011

My take on New York Times "36 hours in Brasilia"

Friday 4 p.m.1) CONGRESS WITH NIEMEYER
Start in the heart of the “Pilot Plan,” the original planned city, where
three Niemeyer-designed buildings house the three branches of Brazilian
government around Praça dos Três Poderes (Three Powers Square). They’re
all classic, curvy Niemeyer: the Planalto Palace, where Brazil’s first
female president works; the Federal Supreme Court; and towering over
both, two sky-scraping office towers and the accompanying convex and
concave domes where the National Congress sits. Stroll up the esplanade
past the pale green ministry buildings to one of the most recent works
by Niemeyer (who is still at it at age 103): the 2006 Honestino
Guimarães National Museum (SCS, Lote 2; 55-61-3325-5220) where you can see the work of contemporary artists from around the world.

Agree!

6 p.m.2) SUNSET FROM A SHRINE
The sunset in Brasília is beautiful from just about anywhere, but the
best place of all to catch it is at the Ermida Dom Bosco (QI 29, Lago
Sul), a Niemeyer-designed shrine across the artificial Lake Paranoá from
the Pilot Plan. The lookout attracts a daily crowd that melts away once
the sun is gone. Don’t follow the masses: stick it out with the stray
couples (and coconut water vendors) and catch the stunning oranges and
reds and lavenders that fill the sky about 20 minutes later.

Agree!

8 p.m.3) BAR HOPPING
The most popular evening activity for all local residents is to eat,
drink and talk at the hyper-social bars that serve young and old,
straight and gay, beer-lovers and caipirinha aficionados alike. Perhaps
the most traditional of all the watering holes is 55-year-old Beirute
(CLS 109, Bloco A; 55-61-3244-1717),
seamlessly mixing the older regulars with a young gay crowd; the food,
as you might expect, runs Middle Eastern, including the football-shaped
minced-meat and bulgur snacks known in Portuguese as kibes (from 3.50
reais, or $2 at 1.7 reais to the dollar). Two other favorites are
Libanus (CLS 206, Bloco C, Loja 36; 55-61-3244-9795), younger and a bit more raucous, and Boteco (CLS 406, Bloco D, Loja 35; 55-61-3443-4344),
a spirited Rio de Janeiro-style bar erected, in classic Brasília
juxtaposition, across the parking lot from a supermarket. Waiters bring
around trays bearing snacks to choose from; the most famous is the
coxinha de camarão (7.90 reais), a shrimp version of Brazil’s staple bar
snack, chicken croquettes.

Well, I hate the food at Beirute. Libanus is just ok. Boteco is not really a "Rio-style bar". In Rio, traditional botecos (with small "b") are much simpler and popular places that play a similar social role of British pubs. Cairipinhas at Brasília's Boteco are remarkably well done and not expensive at all. BTW, my favorite botecos in Brasilia are Piauí (403 Sul, bloco B - loja 20) for drinking/atmosphere and Amigão (food). The latter was Tyler Cowen's favorite! But these places are not for everyone: English is not spoken and the toilets are quite dirty.

Saturday 9 a.m.4) SOUPIE, ANYONE?
“Soupie” is how the Brazilians pronounce SUP, the abbreviation for
stand-up paddle surfing, a sport involving you, a surfboard and a
paddle. And you’ll need to pronounce it the way they do if you want the
staff member at the gate of the Clube Naval (SCES, Trecho 2, Conjunto
13) to let you through to the lakeside base of Clube do Vento (55-61-8124-8596; clubedovento.com).
For a mere 25 reais, you’ll soon be paddling out into Lake Paranoá
toward the stunning Juscelino Kubitschek Bridge with its three
criss-crossing arches, which opened in 2002 and immediately became a
city landmark.

I thought that Clube do Vento was my secret spot! My wife practices SUP and I windsurf there. James*, the owner, is such a nice (and hyperactive) guy. When he is not available by phone, you should e-mail him at james@clube.... (He is Brazilian and the pronunciation of his name is something like "xãmees", but you can call him James.)

Noon5) NORTHEASTERN BUFFET
Just about every Brazilian city outside the northeast has a healthy
number of migrants from that cuisine-rich and financially poor region,
but only Brasília has a branch of the northeast-based Mangai (SCE Sul; 55-61-3224-3079; mangai.com.br),
a palace of regional cuisine where diners pick and choose from a buffet
of 80 or so main dishes (heavy on the pork and squash and manioc) and
40 or so desserts. Payment is by weight (46.90 reais per kilogram), a
typical Brazilian restaurant scheme; about 35 reais will get you a full
plate, a dessert and a fresh fruit juice. Also included: hammocks on the
porch overlooking Lake Paranoá to take a postprandial rest.

The food is pretty good, but the place is huge. Oh, and you can eat the hanging bananas for free.

2 p.m.6) MODERNIST WORSHIP
No colonial-era churches in this town. Instead, Brasília’s houses of
worship fit right in with the modernist theme. You’ve already caught a
glimpse of Niemeyer’s National Cathedral near the ministries, now it’s
time for a visit to what must be the bluest church in the world, the Dom
Bosco Sanctuary (SEPS, Quadra 702; 55-61-3223-6542; santuariodombosco.org.br),
completed in 1970. Its 50-foot-high Gothic arches are filled in with 12
tones of blue stained glass, casting the interior (and its 2.75-ton
chandelier and cedar cross) in haunting submarine tones. From there,
continue south to the drastically more modest Igrejinha de Fátima (EQS
307/308; igrejinhadefatima.org), the city’s first church, also a Niemeyer special.

Agree!

4 p.m.7) SUNSET SAMBA
Late-afternoon samba is a Saturday tradition in town, and while the bars
that host it may not be much to look at, the cold beer, a warm crowd
and a hot band render the soulless venues atmospherically irrelevant.
The hottest place these days is Cadê Tereza (CLS 201, Bloco B, Loja 1; 55-61-3225-0555; cadeterezabar.com.br),
named after a Jorge Ben Jor song whose title means “Where’s Tereza?”
The likely answer to that question: If she didn’t get there early
enough, she’s probably in line. Who knows if the new hot spot has
staying power, so a safe backup is the longtime classic Calaf (SBS,
Quadra 2, Bloco S; 55-61-3325-7408; calaf.com.br), which brings unexpected weekend life to the otherwise abandoned Southern Banking Sector.

It sound ok, but in fact I don't know.

9 p.m.8) COPENHAGEN ON PARANOá
Dress up and head to one of Brasília’s most elegant and unusual restaurants. Aquavit (SMLN, Trecho 12, Conjunto 1, Casa 5; 55-61-3369-2301; restauranteaquavit.com).
There, the chef and owner Simon Lau Cederholm will greet you as if you
were attending a dinner party at his house. And in fact, you are: the Denmark
native opened the restaurant in his own home (which he designed; he’s
also an architect) in 2005. The set menu is a mix of Danish cuisine,
French technique and Brazilian ingredients. On a recent night the five
course prix-fixe (192 reais, wine extra) included both a cold soup of
cucumber with smoked salmon and a locally made cheese, which the chef
whips and serves with cashew nuts and cashew fruit, an abundant crop in
the region.

I changed my mind and decided to give it a try. Excellent. I would dare to say that it would earn one star (or even two) in a Michelin guide of Brasília (if there was one). Oh, and remember to bring the address with you, because the house is nondescript from the outside.

Sunday 9 a.m.9) PETIT DéJEUNER
The idea of a true French patisserie on the bland commercial blocks in
Brasília is almost as counterintuitive as having a McDonald’s on the
Champs-Élysées in Paris. But they both exist. The superior of the two is Daniel Briand Pâtissier & Chocolatier (SCLN 104, Bloco A, Loja 26, 55-61-3326-1135; cafedanielbriand.com),
a breakfast- and brunch-lover’s dream. Breakfast platters start at
24.90 reais. Or order their elegant pastries, buttery croissants with
housemade jams, fresh-made quiches or varied pâtés à la carte.

Well, it is just ok and overpriced. Bakeries in Brasil (and Brasília) are quite bad. The best baguette in town can be found at La Boulangerie.

10:30 a.m.10) SENHORA PRESIDENTE
Head back to the Praça dos Três Poderes for a tour of the Planalto
Palace, the work space of President Dilma Rousseff. The public spaces
are filled with Brazilian art and modernist furniture by the celebrated
Brazilian designer Sérgio Rodrigues. But that’s not all: you can also
see the room where the cabinet meets, and even peek into the president’s
office.

Agree.

Noon11) THE ANTI-BRASíLIA
There’s barely a trace of poverty or even of the working class in
Brasília. But that’s an illusion: the poorer residents of the Federal
District live in “satellite cities,” dense clusters of high-rise
apartment buildings that dot Brasília’s horizon. For a taste of life as
it is really lived, head 30 minutes out of town to Ceilândia, where the
central feira, or market (Avenida Hélio Prates between Via M Um and Via M
Dois) hums Wednesday through Sunday. For about 7 reais, food stands
offer huge plates of northeastern specialties — the real organs and bone
marrow of it. Under the same roof you’ll find bakers, fruit sellers,
discount clothing, tobacco salesmen and butchers. If Brasília is a
modern Brazilian dream, Ceilândia is modern Brazilian reality.

Feira de Ceilândia is nice, but I think that Feira do Guará offers a better experience. It is closer to Brasília (Plano Piloto) and there is a metro station nearby. Vila Planalto (portuguese), a stone's throw of Palácio do Planalto, is another unplanned neighborhood with northeastern restaurants.

1 comment:

Are you in need of a loan? Do you want to pay off your bills? Do you want to be financially stable? All you have to do is to contact us for more information on how to get started and get the loan you desire. This offer is open to all that will be able to repay back in due time. Note-that repayment time frame is negotiable and at interest rate of 3% just email us creditloan11@gmail.com