style.com: trias spring 2011 ready-to-wear review

Tríassee the complete collection >
NEW YORK, September 12, 2010
By Alison Baenen
The title of Joaquín Trías’ show was Seized Movement, and what that meant for the Madrid-based designer was an exploration of air’s effect on the clothes we wear. Trías’ goal was to trap a pleat in mid-ripple and to create the volume a puff of wind might make when coursing through the back of a dress. As concepts go, this one would have been easy to overdo, but the collection was rigorously controlled as well as technically accomplished.

A slim-fitting V-neck red raffia dress was cut low on the sides and vented in the back. The revealing arm opening had a molded, organic quality, exactly as if the wearer had been caught in a breeze and was about to flash a peek of side nipple. (If that makes it sound risky or risqué, it wasn’t. The designer had his technique well in hand.)

Black viscose cigarette pants with a subtle matador ruffle at the waist were an elegant evening option. Worn below one of the blouses with a pouf of air trapped at the back, they were like the string that tethers a balloon to earth.