Jean Paul Gaultier x Ballet Preljocaj's Snow White

The Joyce Theater presents the New York premiere of Ballet Preljocaj's acclaimed production of Snow White at Lincoln Center later this month. Below, BAZAAR talks to Jean Paul Gaultier, who designed the costumes

We all know the familiar story of Snow White – a tale propelled by envy, tension and seduction - focused on the older wicked stepmother and the younger, fairer Snow White. Ballet Preljocaj and Jean Paul Gaultier's Snow White takes the storied tale and gives it a high fashion makeover. Characters leap, bow and twirl in avant-garde, seductive ensembles – some of which appear to take inspiration from Gaultier's classics bustiers and patent leathers.

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What most inspired you about Ballet Preljocaj's production of Snow White?

I had seen Angelin Preljocaj's work before, at the Theatre Festival in Avignon in the south of France and I have been very impressed. When he contacted me and told me that he was working on Snow White I was quickly seduced by the idea.

I have been very fortunate that I have been able to work with the artists that I admire. Regine Chopinot and Preljocaj for dance, Perdo Almodovar or Luc Besson for film. The list goes on.

Courtesy Jean-Claude Carbonne

Where did you take inspiration from when designing the costumes?

Angelin explained his idea that the Snow White is a fairy tale and that like all fairy tales it had a dark and sensual side. That was the starting point. The music and the set played the part as well as the dancers. It was easy to dress the prince in a costume inspired by a toreador.

How does designing for dance or ballet differ than designing 'fashion'?

When I do my own fashion shows I am the director, script writer and choreographer. When I work with a choreographer I have to work with their direction and their ideas. It's a challenge for me because I have to respond to someone else's vision, but I love that. It gives me fresh air and new energy for my own projects.

You've referenced fairytales – from The Little Mermaid to Walt Disney's tales in your previous collections. When designing for Snow White, did you use any inspirations from your previous collections?

I always work with my codes and with my obsessions but they are maybe less obvious here.

What role do you see the costumes having in the story?

I hope important, I hope that they could help the dancers find their characters.

How did the experience of working with Ballet Preljocaj differ from designing for your long-time collborative partner, French choreographer Regine Chopinot ?

It can't really be compared as I have worked with Regine continuously for more than ten years. I have enjoyed immensely both experiences.

Would you like to do more costume design in the future? Which métier would you prefer, if so: film, live theatre, dance?

At the core I am a fashion designer and I design clothes. I am happiest when I see someone in the street wearing my creations. But I am sure that I will continue to work on different projects outside fashion. It is always a happy coincidence, a fortuitous encounter that has led to collaborations that I have had with dance or cinema.

Courtesy Jean-Claude Carbonne

Snow White is showing at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center April 23-27th.