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Eclano, North End, Boston

A down-to-earth restaurant with honest, friendly service and meticulously prepared food of exceptional quality, especially for the price.

A salty saffron broth draws out the oceany flavours in a pile of clams, arranged carefully, the shells spreading out in circles like petals of a flower. Two prawns on the edge of the plate, the tails plump and sweet, the heads releasing rich juices as they are crushed in the mouth. A beany spread on crostini provides and earthy contrast to the borth as it soaks it up.

A sultry aroma from truffle oil pervades the papardelle, board flat ribbons of handcut pasta, tender, with a right hint of resistance. A evocative blend of flavours with a mix of mushrooms that appear to include hen of the woods and oyster mushrooms, slippery, and bluntly snapping in unison with the pasta. Rich sauce with woodsy mushroom flavours. Half orders are available.

Venison is exceedingly tender, not a single sinew in three husky pieces. A good hint of gaminess, plenty of meaty, deep flavour. A light airily herbed polenta cake, and a modestly sweet piece of carrot as accompaniements.

Good texture in the panna cotta, balanced by a bright, lively berry sauce and crumbly buttery shortbread.

A glass of balanced, sturdy docetto to match the food. A great addition to the neighbourhood.

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