A
few tips on buying, miniature toy steam engines
without getting hurt or killed in the process.

I 've watched with great
interest, over the past 10 years or so, as the miniature
and toy steam engine hobby has grown in popularity,
far beyond all expectations. The hobby has
had an astounding resurgence as more and more people
have discovered these marvelous little pieces of mechanical
art. Much of this growth has been fueled by sites like
this one, but the lions share of credit most certainly
must go to Ebay.

As time has gone by, I've gotten
more and more into the restoration end of the hobby
and I have restored quite a number of old engines for
others. In doing so, I've seen a number of issues
which some owners ignored, either from sincere ignorance
(curable) or a devout wish to be removed from the human
genetic pool. (often terminal). For the former individuals
I'm sharing a few tips and concerns in the hope that
I can help them avoid disappointment and possibly some very
real pain. For the latter....I'll have candles
lit on holidays....(grin)

Buying
A Steam Engine:There
it is... right there on the computer screen... the steam
engine of your fondest desires. You check the bids and this
one looks like it just might be yours before evening
is at an end. One push of the bid button and the auction
ends with you as the proud winner of an old and beautiful
little steam engine. Fast forward time a week or so
and the hard won prize arrives. You unwrap the little
fellow and set it on the table to have a look. This
is when you either beam with pride over a wise buy
or you slap yourself for not paying more attention before
hitting that $#&*@ bid button. Here are some tips for beginner
and old online
auction steam engine warriors alike.

Photos are great
for determining the condition of an engine, but
there are subtle ways to hide things. Take notice
of the angles shown. In a group of pictures, it
is easy to miss the fact that one area or angle
of an engine has been avoided. This can be an indication
the seller is hiding damage that you are not supposed
to see. If one end of the boiler is studiously avoided,
it's a good thing to wonder why. Out of focus photos
are not always an indication of problems, but
it is a very good idea to ask for better shots
before bidding. A little blur can hide a lot
of surface problems..

Look for things
that should not be there. A hex bolt
in a boiler port, an unusual looking screw in
a linkage or a burner under an electric heated
engine are a sure signs things are not what
they should be. Any one of these problems is likely to indicate
an unrepairable and non running steam engine.
Such damage is an indication of an abused
engine. While it might make a nice desk display,
it's not going to be an engine you'll be able to
run. A bolt, living where the safety valve should
be, is an explosion waiting to happen. A cooked
out solder joint is not going to hold pressure and
hot steam blown in your face is painful beyond
belief.

Look for dents,
cracks, bad solder repairs and missing items. A
missing steam line is not a huge problem if you
are mechanically inclined and have a few tools,
but it can be a dead end if you are not capable
of doing a bit of restoration work. A broken sight
glass is easy enough to replace on most engines,
but in very old engines it can be difficult to do
without breaking things. A small boiler dent in
the middle of the vessel is probably not a problem,
but a small dent in a corner of an end cap can indicate
serious problems. Avoid all engines with large dents...
trust me on this one. Cracks in solder joints are
common and they are hard to spot in a photo, so
look closely. These are the dangerous and should
be avoided. A cracked flywheel flying apart
and bouncing about the room is not very conducive
to a positive experience.(such cracks are relatively
common in some older Fleischman engines)

Small missing
parts may not seem like a huge problem. After all,
old steam engines show up on Ebay everyday. Not
so fast there Tonto. Buying a steam engine with
the hope of someday finding missing parts
is a sure recipe for disappointment. Engines which
are still made, such as Jensen or Wilesco are usually
pretty easy to find replacements for. An old
Bing, Doll, Faulk, Plank or some other brand which
is no longer made, will usually prove nearly impossible
to find replacements. If it is missing something,
assume it is not going available and factor this
sad fact into your decision making equation.

Don't be fooled
by paint, tarnish or rust. A fresh coat of paint
is a great way to hide sins. By the same token,
a an engine with rough paint is restorable if everything
else is as it should be. A little bit of rust is
not a deal killer as long as it has not compromised
the structural integrity of the engine. A bit of
elbow grease can work miracles on tarnish and rust
if the underlying metal is intact. If the corrosion
is such that it has deeply pitted a fire box, boiler
or other engine component, leave it alone
and buy elsewhere.

Email the seller
and ask questions before bidding. Check the seller's
feedback for clues about their history. If possible,
make phone contact with the owner and get a more
personal feel for things. A seller who doesn't know
much about engine is not necessarily a problem.
In fact, they simply do not know much about the
engine. They will usually be quite happy to
act as your eyes as you ask questions. Once you
feel you have a good feel for the seller and a clear
idea of the engine's condition, go ahead and push
the bid button if it feels right. A seller
who is evasive or uncooperative when questioned
is simply bad news. It's not too hard to get a sense
of this attitude, even by email. When in doubt...
as difficult as it might feel...walk away and
avoid potential problems.

Don't be afraid
to request more or better photos before you make
your decision. Most reputable sellers will be pleased
to provide them if the are technically capable of
doing do so. Sometimes a different camera angle
will answer a question you might have. It might
also show damage that the seller was hoping to hide.

In most cases,
private sales are a much more comfortable method
of purchasing a steam engine. The rushing deadline
of an auction is something that we've all experienced.
You have to make a choice in a short period of time
with fairly limited information. This often means
that mistakes are made. Buying an engine directly
from an owner at a leisurely pace is my preferred
modus operandi. There is more chance for personal
contact, more information exchange and you get the
chance to make a new friend in the process. Sure...
this doesn't allow checking feedback, but most of
us form pretty fair character judgments, given
time to communicate a bit. Private sales tend to
be a bit harder to find, but I recommend them
highly. My best quality engines and best deals have
all been private sales

With a bit of common
sense, some due diligence and careful observation you
can pretty much avoid the disappointment of winding
up with a steam engine that has problems. These
are often very old machines which have passed through
many, often less than gentle hands, so a bit of
caution in making the deal is not a bad thing. .With
a few careful purchases, you too will discover the joys
of having no more available shelf space...(grin)

Steve

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