I was just thinking Halibu's method would be easier to make as I actually have all the parts I need in the shed.

Once my sail arrives I'll have a play with it and see how it goes as both methods look pretty simple to copy.

BTW, Great work on documenting what you have developed as it makes things really easy to understand for sailing newbies.

Just one question if you don't mind. The cleat thingy you have to hold the rope near your hatch, do you happen to have a link to somewhere that sells it? I've had a search around, but I have no idea on what type/size I should be looking for.

Thanks John.I'd be interested to see how you go with Halibu's mod. Keep us posted. I used a modified V-cleat found here.http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-676-ron ... leats.aspxThe size you choose would depend on your furling line. There are better ways to run the furling line and mainsheet that others have posted. I no longer sail the Oasis. If I did I'd be copying the layout of the AI/TI mainsheet/furling line and using pulleys and cam cleats.

Inspired by the furlers of stringy, husky13 and Skadar, I’ve come up with a mongrel version of all three. I liked stringy’s furling line running down the center of the boat. I can grab it with either hand and it’s not in the right foot-well. Due to the shallow cockpit of the Adventure, I mounted the cleat on the hatch. I used cheap 5/32” cord for the furling line. I will replace that later with 3/16” marine line. A bungee ball keeps the line from running out of the cleat and gives me something to grab. The rail mount cleat gives both the sail bungee and furling line a tight purchase w/o drilling holes in the mast. I didn’t bother cutting down the cleat horns, as they did not interfere with my Mirage drive. The steel shaft collar gives a flat even surface area for the bearing/washers to ride against.

In case of capsize, I did a bit of overkill. Not trusting the furling line alone to keep from losing the mast and sail, I am using a bimini knuckle. The knuckle spins freely on the mast and is tethered with paracord to the small cleat that the sail bungee used to hook on. That cleat was drilled out and a 3/16” SS eyebolt inserted. The furling and tether lines have not yet become tangled. I used a 4” plastic disk between the furling line and bimini knuckle to prevent the furling line from wrapping around the bearing and knuckle. I also sprayed the bottom of the mast and the mast socket with dry silicone to reduce friction.

I don't think these furling systems would work on our sail rigs, because of the stays.

One thing I did to give a partial furl is to run a small line up through the paddle holder on the left side, up through the black mast stay on top, then down to the hole where the line that you use to control the sail.

That way you can yank on line coming out of the paddle holder if a gust comes along, and collapse your sail quickly like an old fashion hand fan that southern belles would use to keep cool on a summer's eve.

Make sure it is a thin line with a fair amount of play so it doesn't interfere with your sail.

Thanks John.I'd be interested to see how you go with Halibu's mod. Keep us posted. .....

It took me about 20 minutes to make and works no problems. The only issue I have is I can't steer my Outback with the eVolve motor as my rudder (see my other thread). But this mod worked great to furl the sail when I realised I couldn't steer.

I haven't rigged up any cleats or pulleys so they would make the job even easier

After removing the mask while underway I lost the thrust bearings. I replaced them with 3/4 inch OD roller bearings that fit down inside the mask shaft with a washer on top. This works equally well and the bearings are not exposed to the weather and can't fall off when you remove the mask.

I really like the rail mount cleat for the furling system. I got the cleat from Sea-dog and a thrust bearing from Reid supply (identical to Stringy's) and gave it a go.

The sail furls great, it is the unfurling that is difficult. After watching Halibu77's youtube video - I had to try his simple PVC furling system. The PVC furling system works great -both furling and unfurling. I don't have to move to adjust anything, I can control everything from the cockpit. The sail stays attached to the PVC and to the furling line cam cleat. This helps when I take the sail down and pedal. No need to worry about losing any bearings. (with the bearing system I did use a short bungee ball to wrap around the mast and retain the bearing - it worked great).

I also rigged my lines so that If I am heading directly upwind I can furl my sail and pull the mainsheet down and out of the way of my head and the mirage drive.

I really appreciate everybody's ideas in this forum. It has made my Hobie sailing experience a lot more enjoyable.

_________________"Ain't no livin' like Sugarloaf livin"2011 Adventure "The X-wing"

Answering my own question here. Yes, the Halibu method spins the sail around the mast and leaves the mast stationary.

I constructed my own Halibu device using 1.5 inch PVC very quickly. I used it for the first time today and it works extremely well for such a simple device.

I currently only have two problems:

1) On my 2010 Oasis, when fully extending the pedals I come into contact with the furling device. I can shortly my length of tube in order to eliminate this problem, but it would exacerbate the second...2) I can't figure out a way to rig the furling line such that it remains on the furling tube. It continually slips off the bottom of the tube.

Hi. New to this forum as to my shiny new Osasis. I have not been able to find a destription of how to build the Halibu style furl. Is there one around?Also this might be a dumb question but since it furls by just twisting the bottom of the sail itself around the mast, does that put much stress on the sail? It seems like that might be a problem but I guess it is pretty durable.