Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly
"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.
Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "
THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.
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The two remaining wires

The two remaining wires can now be treated the same as the wires from a 2-wire sensor, one will carry the sensor signal and one will be the signal ground (for a single wire sensor, the signal ground will be the engine block). Jesper Ingerslev points out that the Ford Mustang built since 1996 has 2 oxygen sensors per catalytic converter, one before the converter and one after. Some other vehicles also have this arrangement. With a vehicle of this type, the circuit board described here should be attached to the sensor closest to the engine. Find a convenient place along the wires. Don’t cut these wires, you will cut the sensor wire here at a later time, but not now. Instead, strip back a small amount of the insulation on each wire. Be careful to avoid the wires short-circuiting to each other or to the body of the vehicle. Connect the DC voltmeter to the wires (the non- heater wires). Start the engine and watch the meter readings. When the engine is warmed up, if the oxygen sensor is performing as it should (i.e. no engine check lights on), the voltage on the meter should begin toggling between a low value near zero volts and a high value of about 1 volt. If the meter reading is going negative, then reverse the leads. The black multimeter lead is connected to the signal 'ground' (zero volts) and the red lead will be connected to the wire which carries the signal from the sensor. Connect a piece of insulated wire to the stripped point of the sensor wire and take the wire to the input of your mixture controller circuit board. Connect a second insulated wire between the signal ‘ground’ wire, or in the case of a 1-wire sensor, the engine block, and the circuit board zero-volts line. Insulate all of the stripped cables to prevent any possibility of a short-circuit: More specific detail However, the situation is by no means a simple one which allows a single simple adaption which will work on every vehicle for many years. Les Pearson has been investigating this situation in depth for three years along with a friend who is an Electronics Engineer. Having built and tested EFIEs, the oxygen sensor circuit shown below, several versions of MAP controllers, coolant/air temperature hacks, professional systems, etc. and discovered that many vehicle ECUs ("Electronic Control Units") learnt to adapt to the new conditions and return to the highly inefficient excess fuel injection condition. This return to the original fuel injection is different for each design of ECU and there are many different designs. Les says: "To understand the solution, first you have to understand the dilemma with all the other ECU control tricks. The EFIEs, MAP adjusters, temp hacks etc. do get good results for a short time, and then the performance deteriorates again. Why should this be? It is because the ECU learns to deal with the new situation with them in place. This is because the ECU knows that the feedback from most of it's controls, and sensor's are not linear, nor should they be. All of the electronics, and adjustment methods used by the Hydrogen On Demand people are linear, and that is not an adequate way to deal with the problem. For example, we may add a couple of hundred millivolts to the oxygen ("lambda") sensor signal in order to return an unduly rich signal to the ECU, and so make it respond with a lower level of fuel injection. This makes the ECU A - 1284

think that the Air/Fuel Ratio is say, 15:1 or 20:1. Now the mass air maps are all wrong, we need to show less air so that the ECU adds less fuel in order to match the fuel trims. We now need to adjust the ignition timing to take advantage of this combustion change. The problem is that all the EFIEs, MAP/MAF adjusters, and attempts at changing timing by manipulating air temp are a static fixed offset, producing just a single change. An Air/Fuel Ratio of 20:1 is not appropriate under moderate or heavy acceleration when you don't, and usually can't, add enough hydroxy gas to allow for these conditions. A set 15% to 20% leaner setting across the entire fuel map is not appropriate at all loads, and engine speeds. Adding 50 to 75 degrees F to the air temp is not appropriate when the outside air is already at 110 degrees F. The ECU knows this and makes appropriate changes to it's long-term settings, and so it cancels out the changes which our electronic additions have made. While it may be OK for an experimenter, and mechanic with all the tools at his disposal to play with these techniques, and retune his engines every week or so in order to get great mileage, it is not realistic to expect the average person to do this. The cost in equipment alone, would undermine any fuel savings. Also, most people don't even change their oil at appropriate intervals. This was my train of thought as I pondered a solution, and began searching. My search was for a control solution which could firstly, alter the air-flow readings, lambda readings, and ignition timing and secondly, respond to changes in engine speed and engine load. To my surprise I found several products already on the market which are capable of doing this, and which have been available for quite some time. People in the engine-tuning industry have been using them for years. They are custom programmable, piggy-back chips. Several companies make them, and while most do not advertise O2 ("lambda") sensor control, many are quite capable of altering it. We became a distributor for one brand which seemed to be the best fit for our purposes, and we began testing. The results are perfect. We started with an 2002 Saturn SL. The average mpg for this car started at 26 mpg (highway and city combined). We installed the chip, tested several tuning methods, and found the one which worked best. The car now averages 44-46 mpg. This is not special 'grandma driving' to try, and coax a few extra miles per gallon. This is a courier vehicle for a local printer, and it is driven daily like it was stolen. We have all the same benefits of increased torque (pulling power), better throttle response, etc. The car has been driven around for three months now with our programmed chip installed, and it achieves the mid-40s in mpg all of the time. there are no code changes needed, no start-up problems, no driving problems of any kind whatsoever. If you weren't told, you would never know that hydroxy gas was being added, except for the fact that you can go over 500 miles on a single tank of fuel. The only problem is that this is definitely not a do-it-yourself solution. You need a laptop computer with proprietary software to tune the chip, and the scanning, and diagnostic equipment to know when you have it tuned correctly. However, I have thought of a do-it-yourself solution. It still requires you to buy a few electronic kits, and you need a lot of know-how, but we are circumventing a highly sophisticated control architecture, so anyone who thinks it will be easy, is delusional. The main item is a Digital Fuel Adjuster or "DFA" kit from JayCar electronics based in Australia. Their website is http://www.jaycar.com. The adjuster kit number is KC5385, and you have to have the hand controller to program it, that kit number is KC5386. At the present time, the Adjuster kit costs USD $49.50, and the controller kit is USD $39.50. The adjuster doesn't have an enclosure supplied, but the controller does. You need one controller and two adjusters. The controller can be reused to program multiple adjusters. Once you have the kits, it will take several days of soldering to build them, and it is definitely not a beginner's firsttime project. After the two adjusters and the controller have been built, the first one is wired in to the MAP/MAF sensor signal as shown in the instructions guide. Next the second DFA is used on the oxygen sensor signal. If there are two oxygen sensors, then the DFA is wired through the common ground for the upstream sensors ONLY. This places the voltage offsets in tandem, which makes it unnecessary to use two DFAs (or EFIEs for that matter) for "lambda" control. Now control has been established over fuel maps, and a "lambda" control which is responsive to engine load has been achieved. I believe that these kits also come with an option to make them responsive to rpm. For ignition timing, the temperature offsets will probably still be necessary, but now you have a fuel control which if tuned properly, the ECU will not learn its way around. I have found that the maps for "lambda" control are very simple. Tune for the leanest Air/Fuel Ratio appropriate at very low loads, and increase the fuel richness a bit in increments as the load increases. As you get close to full throttle, but before you switch to open-loop operation, your lambda offset should be zero (the stock setting). To tune the air-flow or fuel maps, watch the OBD II scan gauge, and decrease the MAP signal so that your short term fuel trim ("STFT" on a scanner) is no greater than about ± 7% at each load interval. Drive for about 20 minutes, and check that your long term fuel trim ("LTFT") never goes beyond the "7s" either. Now the ECU cannot "see" your changes because the fuel map, and lambda readings "agree" at every load range. A - 1285