I am wondering if anyone has tips for refilling the oil on a Simpson LawrenceWindlass (1997 Hunter 42 Passage). I have had some problems with it recently. First, the motor failed due to worn brushes and I could not find replacements. So I replaced the motor. Then the new motor failed and upon inspection, it had filled up with oil. It turns out that the oil seal above the motor (bottom of the gearbox) has leaked and filled the motor with oil. I have now got the oil seal out and found a replacement. But does anyone know how to refill the oil in the gearbox? I do not have a manual and do not see a readily apparent fill port. It looks like it was filled with engine oil, but i do not know the specs.

I could take the entire windlass out and fill it through the bearings, but was wondering if anyone else has had experience with this. I feel sure there must be an easier way and I am just not seeing it. I have the serial no, but no model no.

Any advise or possible schematics would be appreciated before I pull the complete windlass.

Since I had no replies to my post..........I will report on the resolution in case anyone else has the same issues:

The vendor that I bought the new motor from took pity on me and sold me another motor at cost - thank you B&M!!

I found a replacement seal on ebay, replaced it. Pulled the gearbox out (pretty easy, 4 bolts). Contacted the manufacturer, and they confirmed there was no fill port for the oil. They suggested that I use "motor oil". So I used Castrol SAE30, filling through the bearings after flushing out remnants of old oil and sludge. Reassembled everything and it seems to be working fine.

Certainly would dissuade me from buying this sort of windlass. Making oil changing that difficult is poor design in my book. It is difficult enough in my Maxwell VC1500, but at least there is a port to drain from and refill...

Strange that they used "motor oil" to begin with. I have an old Nilssen H700 which I bought very used and was advised by my marine pro buddy to do a major maintanence service on before installing it. When we opened it up it was in very good condition, except one grease channel being corroded. My buddy showed me an old trick he learned himself when working as a mechanic years ago. We inserted a small waxed steel tube through the good part of that channel and covered it with aluminum based epoxy paste. when the paste hardened we pulled the tube out leaving a perfect new channel for the grease to travel to the gears. That and 2 or 3 new grease nipples was all that was needed. As well as new outside paint. This windlass is probably 35 years old but works like a charm.

Anyway, I googled Nilssen's original specs and they all say only an occasional re-greasing is required, if at all. It is designed not to be opened too often or too easily. I'd assume Simpson Lawrences are similar in that respect, no?