I tried the 80 primary idle jet so far and it seemed to get my idle speed up to 750. however im only 1 5/8 turns out on the mixture screw so that tells me i should go back down to the 75 jet correct?

i also tried the 65 secondary jet and the dead spot got worse. I have checked the float and i think its good it measured 17 to 18 mm at the top of the float on the end closest to the air horns. 2mm of needle travel. so where should i go from here do you think my problem is the main jets or the A/C jets? At this point im not sure if the dead spot is because its too rich or too lean. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Hacken

Hey, sorry about the PM box being full. Not much I can do about it at the moment.

My first thought is, if going up a size made it worse, go down a size and see what happens.

I'm a little confused on how you measured the float. Like this...?

Shawn

__________________Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.

Yes that is how i measured the float. I agree i would like to try one size jet down however the kit does not supply that which means ordering another jet. Do you have any other thoughts on what may be my problem or do you think now it lies with the proper jet set up? Which for me i guess means trial and error. Something i did notice is in the jet kit they give you a single pump 60 and a double pump 60. why the double pump 60? on the carb is a Single 50. should the second barrel get a blast from the pump jet or not?

Still racking my brain on this weber. Here is where im at now. After a few checks i have realized i was wrong with my initial settings.
The jets are all the original stock from redline. As noted before i have inserted a larger idle jet with no change in my dead spot so i went back to the 75 pri idle and went back to redo the adjustments. As far as my idle screw i can only get one full turn until i start to pick up vacuum at the s port. So i made sure there is no vacuum and left it there just a hair under one turn.

The mixture screw which i thought was 1 7/8 turns out was not there. To get the best idle im only at 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 turns. However at this best idle my actual idle speed is only 450-500rpm.

The timing is at 9 bdtc and vac advance is directly to the manifold.

Im not sure why the rpms are so low other than the plates needing to be so closed. To stop pulling vacuum. I tried the trick with the throtle shaft nut and that didnt seem to change anything. Following the directions with the carb this setting tells me i need a smaller pri idle jet but im not sure.

My problem is a dead spot in heavy acceleration, basically when stomping the pedal in any gear except for first. the engine idles slow at one and 1/2 turns on the stop screw. but very smooth. I have been all over with the timing and nothing seems to help this dead spot. I left it at 8*BTDC.
I guess my question is should i get the jet pack for it and once i have it where should i start?

Hey Hacken,
Hope you got your issue resolved by now.... if not.... my 2cents from what I've just learned on dealing with my 32/36....

If it idles good and runs good down low then the problem is not in the Idle circuit. without an A/F monitor it may be a guess if you're to rich or lean above idle and each barrel has to be tuned as a separate unit as the secondary doesn't open till about 2/3 throttle.

I would recommend an A/F monitor above all,(Well worth the money!!) I put one on my 2.5 and I found that the 32/36 Weber that came on the little 4 banger was puking rich above idle.... It came with 140 mains. I ended up with 125 primary main and 130 secondary main. 150 primary air and 160 secondary air and she perked right up all thru the wimpy band that it is and no flat spots anywhere. timing at 10 degrees and using manifold vac adv .....

Under low vacuum the mains do the work on the way up till vacuum comes up the airs kick in for higher rpm cruise mix....

I would suggest trying 140 mains first if the motor is mostly stock....

Put a weber 32/36 on this summer. It was running great, but now that it has cooled down, it takes forever to start it. It is dumping fuel in the carb when the accelerator is depressed so it is getting at least some fuel. The butterflies are closing correctly. I'm at a loss....

On a side note, since I put the carb on, it runs great. When I dump the accelerator to the floor, the engine stalls out. It runs great otherwise.. Just looking for thoughts on where I should start troubleshooting.

Whats your choke idle speed set to? Mines set to around 900-1000rpm, mine always starts the same regardless of temperature, one pedal pump to throw some fuel down, bump the key, choke comes on and idles at the speed I set it.
Maybe your accelerator pump isn't shooting enough initial gas?

If it super cold out sometimes it does like 2 pedal pumps before starting. And the other thing i do when cold weather sets in is turn both my mixture screw out a 1/4-1/2 turns out from where the best lean idle for summer is. Definitely helps smooth it out and warm up better.

Whats your choke idle speed set to? Mines set to around 900-1000rpm, mine always starts the same regardless of temperature, one pedal pump to throw some fuel down, bump the key, choke comes on and idles at the speed I set it.
Maybe your accelerator pump isn't shooting enough initial gas?

If it super cold out sometimes it does like 2 pedal pumps before starting. And the other thing i do when cold weather sets in is turn both my mixture screw out a 1/4-1/2 turns out from where the best lean idle for summer is. Definitely helps smooth it out and warm up better.

Well said.

Here's a video of mine at ~30* a few winters ago. Fast idle was 900 rpm and I zoomed in to show how far the choke plate was pulling off the tower when it started.

__________________Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.

Little jump in here since it's freezing in michigan, my 258/weber38 Does not like the cold lol!!
Seems I just can't get the choke set were I like it. It's either too closed (starts good,fast idle) then gets ruff because plates are closed to far or..
I adjust so plates are open a little farther and next morning the high speed cam don't set (no high idle)!
Really wanting to go manual ...

There's another adjustment you can do that makes a world of difference. At the back of the carb is a vacuum diaphragm with a little, brass, dust cap in it. If you can get the dust cap wiggled out, you can adjust the amount of pull-off the choke plate has with a little flat-head screwdriver. Set your pull-off there and use the other adjustment to set the time it take to fully open.

It's the pod-lookin' dude on the left. Just poke the dust cap back in when you're done.

Shawn

__________________Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.

Thanks guys, yes electric is working properly. I'll try the pull off. Basically I need the plates to be open more after starting. Runs and starts perfect but after 30 secs is starts to get ruff. If I then reach over and open choke plate it smooths out

Ok someone please help me just a sec, I'm adjusting the choke today and noticed this unplugged hole!! Now, I've messed with this carb quite a bit over the last year, and never noticed the empty hole just below the "s" port. That leaves me to believe it prolly had a brass plug in there. swatson454"s pic above looks like it may be plugged? Please chime in and tell me if this hole should have a plug... Funny cause just noticed it and it's all the sudden running like ****