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Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered.

It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago...

With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end...

I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off.

There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750...

My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.

I tested the clutch switch. good
Replaced the key switch.
Seat switch is bypassed.

I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before.

Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work.

I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch.

After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition.

Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition.

Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition.

New to WH world and this forum. Got a 1980-83? C105 with K241AS 10 hp with intermittent ignition failure. Sometimes the key simply won't get anything. No click or burp. This happens with no consistency. Hot, cold, warm... Usually, I jiggle key or wires and it's enough to get it going but I am concerned it will just get worse.

Sorry to make an account and post for help right away, but I plan on sticking around for a while. Anyway, I'm having a hard time getting my 312-8 tractor to start. It's got a Kohler Magnum 12 engine and the ID under the seat is 2112K806 (space) 37223. A few weeks ago it decided it didn't want to start; when the key was turned to the run position, the seat switch light was dim or flickering very faintly. I assumed the switch was dead, as it didn't have a distinct "click" when it was pressed any more and the tractor is approaching about 30 years of age.
I just got a replacement seat switch from Toro and installed it, but the tractor still refuses to start. The first few times, the seat switch appeared to be working correctly but the tractor insisted the clutch wasn't pushed in, according to the dash lights. I came back a few minutes later and the tractor still refuses to start, although now the seat switch light is behaving as it did before. If I leave the key in the run position and get off the seat, the light works correctly and lights up brightly and solidly, but sitting back down causes it to pulse and light dimly again. I've tried engaging and disengaging the PTO clutch, which the dash reports correctly, as well as the regular clutch, which also seems to respond correctly now.

I'm hoping you fine folks might be able to help me, as the tractor is going to get sold if I don't get it running and it's quite important to me. Any and all help is greatly appreciated, and I thank you in advance for your help!