logjammin wrote:Have any of you thrown both a C=line FD Jackal and S-line jackal?

I love my S-line! It will hole a straight line for miles (well, kilometers anyway) when I throw it forehand. I'm wondering how similar C-line FD is to the S-line.

A club mate had initial release S FD that was way thinner from a lower dome than my release S FD was. C FD is even flatter and way higher PLH. I think i understand now why people love their S FDs because mine was flippy with a hard fade for a supposedly straight disc and the C FD is like a a little used X Pred or broken in Firebird. Much shorter than S FD not flipping at all at full power for me and fading much earlier and harder. Two totally different roles. The variation is so large that you need to take a CFR C PD for the OS end and a used P PD in the understable end and that is how far apart the tall domed S FD and C FD are from each other.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

logjammin wrote:Have any of you thrown both a C=line FD Jackal and S-line jackal?

I love my S-line! It will hole a straight line for miles (well, kilometers anyway) when I throw it forehand. I'm wondering how similar C-line FD is to the S-line.

A club mate had initial release S FD that was way thinner from a lower dome than my release S FD was. C FD is even flatter and way higher PLH. I think i understand now why people love their S FDs because mine was flippy with a hard fade for a supposedly straight disc and the C FD is like a a little used X Pred or broken in Firebird. Much shorter than S FD not flipping at all at full power for me and fading much earlier and harder. Two totally different roles. The variation is so large that you need to take a CFR C PD for the OS end and a used P PD in the understable end and that is how far apart the tall domed S FD and C FD are from each other.

logjammin wrote:Have any of you thrown both a C=line FD Jackal and S-line jackal?

I love my S-line! It will hole a straight line for miles (well, kilometers anyway) when I throw it forehand. I'm wondering how similar C-line FD is to the S-line.

A club mate had initial release S FD that was way thinner from a lower dome than my release S FD was. C FD is even flatter and way higher PLH. I think i understand now why people love their S FDs because mine was flippy with a hard fade for a supposedly straight disc and the C FD is like a a little used X Pred or broken in Firebird. Much shorter than S FD not flipping at all at full power for me and fading much earlier and harder. Two totally different roles. The variation is so large that you need to take a CFR C PD for the OS end and a used P PD in the understable end and that is how far apart the tall domed S FD and C FD are from each other.

Mini pred/firebird? Hmmm....so it would handle headwinds?

Mine does and the discs that arrived in the next batch to the local shop all look identical to mine with no variations. I have no idea how CFR C FDs look like. Mine is a 167 and i can pound it at full tilt into 15 MPH headwind without flipping. I haven't had heavier winds to test it out when i've carried it. How the rest are IDK. The distance on the C FD is way less than with S FDs due to the much earlier and harder fade.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

I don't like these flat cfd. The cfr and fr stars have turn and glide making them awesome in the woods. These flat ones are closer to a ppd. Hopefully discmania runs some domey ones soon, tracking down cfr ones is a pain

No P PD i've had is close to as overstable as my C FD is. And the shop i got mine from had many similar discs with no shape variations that i could spot.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

P3: Tweener, doesn't really feel all that suitable for putting IMO and neither does it feel as good in the hand for driving as a Dart. Decently stable/overstable, but you have to have pretty specific needs to put this in the bag between something like a P2 and an mildly overstable mid.

P-PD2: Mine is one of the good ones (early on there were some that were quite flippy from the start), and it's definitely overstable enough to be a proper PD2. The glide is pretty non-existent and the fade is hard, you need to be able to push it hard to get good distance out of it. As it beats in more it could possibly get longer, but it's hard to say. I do like it a lot for distance into stiff headwinds though.

Going purely Discmania is definitely a possibility, I basically did that some years ago and nowadays it's even easier. A couple of beat D-P1s for long long spin putts and short understable drives, a bunch of P-P2s for putting and driving (with very beat P2s you could skip the P1s totally), a few D-MD2s to cycle around neutral and understable (also takes care of finesse mid duties), flat gummy C-MD2s for slightly overstable when new to neutral power mid duties when seasoned a bit (possibly MD3 for slightly more overstable stuff if they turn out like that), a mix of S and C-FDs for low power shots needing a driver, 3rd run C-PDs (with a provision for some S-Lines as well) for workhorse driver duties, new and beat, S-TD or S-TD2 depending on whether you want a slow, gradual turn or a sharper one, P/S-DD2s and P/S-PD2s to taste. DD is also great if you want a bit straighter flight path for distance shots than the DD2 offers.

It's not an optimal bag, I would (and do) replace the putters with Ions and Anodes (almost all putting and putter driving), with a Basic JOKERi thrown in just in case (wind or a bit more fade required), replace the main max D disc with a Premium LEGENDa (just plain longer than any of my DD2s, and easier to throw), and I have a first run MVP Vector (short/slow overstable shots, and won't skip) and a first run Premium RESPECTi (silly overstable utility shots and thumbers). Other than that it's all C/D-MD2 (4 total, new and seasoned of each plastic), S/C-FD (two total, S is more understable), S/C-PD (2 total, S is more seasoned and better at line shaping), S-TD (two, a stiff for straight shots with only a little turn and little fade and a soft champystar for understable), P-DD2 (beat, tailwind and risky shots) and P-PD2 (headwind D, skip shots).

Parks wrote:If the posts on this forum are any indication, the PD is like a Teebird with sunshine coming out of its butthole so hard that it flies faster.

The new very mild dome hard plastic MD2 was too slick for me after working washing the skin oils away and it performed well in winds in all directions on a field a definite improvement on domey MD2s but on the second hole the wind lifted the bugger and carried it to a river. I just have no luck with flat(tish) MD2s so i don't buy another one since it is hard to replace them or at least it has been so and one sun does not mean steady availability and the slick plastic even in dry warm weather does not suite me.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Just tried an SFD yesterday and this disc is AWESOME!!! It really does do just about everything! My arm was a bit sore so I only brought out an FD and a putter for the back 9 of my course, these holes are about 500' average, and I didnt miss a single disc in my bag. I had a few throws which went just about 400', almost as far as my distance drivers but much more accurate and less power was needed. Going out to buy a PPD today in hopes that it will do the same thing but just go farther. Any other recommendations of a disc that will do this, Saint maybe? Flow?I guess im thinking latitude cause everyone says their glide is amazing, and i'm thinking that the FD's glide is why I love it so much

Flow is an easier wraith fury is a less HSS better gliding slower beast with roughly the same power requirement but better powering Down performance.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Westside sword is an easier destroyer just like gateway slayer and perhaps dd drivers might do the same. A slower control disc would be VIP stag but it is less HSS than some sfds. River is inbetween the stag and the fury.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

So yeah, got myself a C-MD3... They should have just been honest and call it a C-MD23 (think Mako3, Shark3, Roc3...) or C-MD2B or something like that. It's an MD2, and flies like one. Actually less overstable than my yellow gummies were when new. It's basically an off the shelf nice flying C-MD2, and that's it. Not a bad thing, not at all, but I was expecting a new, more overstable mid, not one that was less overstable than my current fresh C-MD2s.

Parks wrote:If the posts on this forum are any indication, the PD is like a Teebird with sunshine coming out of its butthole so hard that it flies faster.