This DIY miter saw bench is a beauty. Whitney Gainer, half of the Shanty2Chic DIY team, made it so she could get more use out of her prized miter saw. Follow the step-by-step instructions, and soon you’ll have a sturdy table like this for your own workshop. (Look for a link to a downloadable version of the tutorial at the end of this how-to.) It might even give you a reason to buy a miter saw if you don’t already have one!

We often get asked what our favorite, most-used tool is. I always answer the same… It’s my miter saw! I love it. I have had it on a stand for the last year or so, and decided it was time to build it a new home.

Check out my DIY Miter Saw Bench!

This is a really simple build with the right tools! Let’s get started!

Step 1

Your first step is building four legs. These are made from joining a 2×4 and a 2×6 piece together. I cut each of these pieces at 27 ½” long.

I added three 1 ½” pocket holes to one side of each 2×4 piece. Then, I connected the 2×4 to a 2×6 using a line of wood glue and 2 ½” pocket hole screws.

Below are my four legs ready to go!

Step 2

The next step is building the frames of the table. There will be a top frame and a bottom frame.

Cut List for Top Frame

2 – 2×4 @ 84″

3 – 2×4 @ 20 ½”

Cut List for Bottom Frame

2 – 2×4 @ 78″

3 – 2×4 @ 14 ½”

I attached each frame using my Kreg Jig again. I added 1 ½” pocket holes to each of my 20 ½” pieces and each of my 14 ½” pieces.

They should look a bit like this, below.

I attached each of these to the longer boards using 2 ½” pocket hole screws.

For each frame you will have one small piece on each end and one in the middle.

At this point, both of my frames looked like this…

Step 3

The next step is attaching the legs to the frames. I used the 2 ½” wood screws through the back of the bottom frame and into each leg to hold it all in place.

Step 4

After attaching the four legs to the bottom frame, you are ready for your plywood.

I always have the nice guys at The Home Depot make my rip cuts for me. I am typically carting around at least a few of my five kiddos when I run in, so bringing a 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood home in the car just isn’t that doable. :-)

Cut List for Plywood Tops

Top Piece – 24″ x 84″

Bottom Piece – 17 ½” x 78″

After attaching the four legs to the bottom frame, I dropped in the first piece of plywood. I used 1 ¼” brad nails through the top of the plywood and into the frame to hold it in place.

Step 5

Next, attach the top frame.

I also used the wood screws on this part, but I went through the back of the legs and into the top frame.

Step 6

The final step on the workbench was adding the plywood panel to the top.

I used brad nails through the top piece of plywood and into the top of the frame. Easy peasy!

Step 7

Before moving on to the miter saw station on top, I attached each of my casters to a piece of 2×6 cut to 5″.

Then, I just took wood screws through these pieces of wood and into the legs of the table. Bam. You now have a rolling workbench!

Step 8

The miter saw station I built is made specifically to fit my Ridgid Miter Saw, but you can easily modify it to fit yours!

I started by building the fence first.

You can use a 1×8 cut into two pieces for this. Mine were 45″ and 14″. You may need to modify these lengths to fit your saw. I added ¾” pocket holes down one long side of these boards.

Step 9

Next, I lined them up with the fence of the saw and attached it to the table top using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws.

Step 10

Next, I measured the height from the top of the workbench to the cutting table of the saw. Mine was 4.625″.

If you are making this for a different saw, this is the measurement that is really important! You want your cutting surface to be even with the supports you are building to make sure you get straight cuts.

I knew I was going to use ¾” MDF for my wood supports, so I subtracted that thickness, leaving me with 3 ⅞”. I used my Ryobi circular saw to rip a board of the plywood to this thickness. I then cut that board into 12″ pieces. I added ¾” pocket holes to one side and bottom of each piece like this!

I used 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach each piece to the table top…

And to the fence piece I just built.

See how they are even??

I spaced mine evenly apart, about every 12″. The two pieces to the right of the saw are 8″ apart.

Almost done, I promise! ;-)

Step 11

The very final step is adding the MDF board to the top.

I cut mine at 40″ for the left side and 8″ for the right side. I did choose to angle these, but that is totally optional! I used brad nails to hold these top two pieces in place.