I was going to the range today. But last night as I was getting my stuff all lined up... I started fooling around with one of the ROAs. I was using the ROA Owners Manual and Chicoine's "Antique Firearms Assembly/Disassembly" to guide me along. I have done the remove the cylinder thing and the loading lever to check it out after I bought it. But that is as far as i went.

I figure if I'm going to own and shoot one of these things, I might as well go ahead and get into the disassembly and reassembly part of it.

I own a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan that has the same type of main spring assembly, so I'm on familiar ground after I get the grips off. Everything was moving along until it came to removing the 5 Screws that hold the grip frame to the cylinder frame. I sprayed them with Ballistol and later on CLP and finally they all came out. I'd wager they have not been removed since this thing was made in 1979. It took a couple of hours but I did not want to damage the screws by trying to muscle them out.

I notice in the ROA Owners Manual that after one gets the mainspring out that they say proceed to remove the 5 screws. Chicoine says to pull the trigger and allow the hammer to ease forward gently. Then remove the screws.[COLOR="Red"]Has anyone done this before and does it matter whether the hammer is forward or not?[/COLOR]

The hammer on this one is going to get some polishing done.

I have to give the folks at Ruger some credit for the factory work they did on this one. There were no arc marks on the hammer, burrs or excess metal. Very smooth and well honed. The screws may have been tight but there were no butter soft ones.

Any way after I get her polished up, do a little cleaning, I'm going to reassemble her and try to get to the range next weekend.

I have torn mine down to the same level indicated above using only the ROA owners manual. The only thing that got a bit tricky for me was reassembly of the cylinder latch, spring, and pin. That's the dog leg shaped part on the bottom left of your picture. I discovered a trick in getting all that back together using a small dowel, but I can't remember what the trick was... I'll probably relearn it on my next go-around.

I don't have the other book you referenced, but I did find the manual to be sufficient.

Two of them that I bought off the sass wire in the last month had issues.
One was pretty abused and one had corrosion issues.
Two cylinders are at the gunsmith now to get nipples removed (badly corroded in cylinder).

No plungers cuz I use a Powder Inc. cylinder loader.

I'd like to make one into a snubbie one day.
Have a vaquero birdhead gripframe that I hope can be fitted to an Old Army frame, shorten the barrel, & reduce the frame size with a belt sander.
Those of you who know Chili Pepper Pete & have seen his Old Armies know what I mean about the frame reduction.
Really gives the Old Army a lean look.

From what I read here and on TFL it's ok to post links that I own... and I have no rules other than Repect, common sense, and NO Spamming ads zero tolerance that are not related to the forums.
I've been a long time member here and really don't get all the legal rederick when all an Admin has to do is remove a topic that's not allowed or would have legal reprocussions. I Admin on 6 forums without any hassels. I hope this is ok to post here as it has all to do with me Joining the ROA Club... Ifin it ain't I guess I won't be back...but you'll know where I'll be Clembert see ya at the Deadwood Saloon I'm buyin' ...hopefully my links will stay on here as per the new rules.
Thanks for listening,
SG

Prairie Dawg ... I too must say that is one beautiful ROA collection ... any chance you strike a barter with that short barreled one w/o a cylinder for the Blued POA in my pics?
PM me here or on my SG's Forum if you like... Can't hurt to ask right :O)
SG

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