I installed an AEM on mine. No problems fitting, you can't tell it is there, can't hear it at idle or low curse speeds, but as soon as you go WOT and pass around 3k rpms, it sounds like a freaking Habuza is stuffed under my hood. Crazy man.

i purchase the injen imitation on e-bay the ones with no name and i disconect the battery completely for 2 hours when i reinstalled everything after a half hour to one hour run check engine light with codes p0103, p0101, p0172 i read here to cut the small part of the intake and that will fix the problem any help is apreciated. thanks in advance.

Yea, I would avoid any oiled filter. Too easy to accidentally put to much oil on and mess up a sensor. Plus AEM makes some awesome filters.

I disagree. You will make more power with a properly oiled filter any day of the week compared to a dry filter like the AEM. It's not difficult to oil a filter, K&N lists the specific amount of oil to use on each of their filters. You really have to over-oil or put it on and run it right away for one of the oiled filters to contaminate the MAF.

Also, an interesting fact for everyone. Make sure you use a large cone filter on your intakes. Use as big as you can get to fit down there. We had my car on the dyno all day yesterday trouble shooting a crazy AFR. Come to find out, my K&N was too small. We took it off for one pull w/ no filter and the overall AFR went from high 11's, low 12s down to consistant 9's with a flat AFR. Put a larger K&N cone on there and it jumped up to mid-high 10's, but the AFR stayed flat. Only took a few trims to even it out from 3K-7K. And the main reason I'm bringing up the Dryflow, is that I had a long discussion with two very reputable tuners yesterday for a while about filters after we found out my issue. Matt @ TTP has actually seen an 8whp difference on a larger displacement engine switching from a dry to an oiled filter. That's dyno proven.

Yea, I would avoid any oiled filter. Too easy to accidentally put to much oil on and mess up a sensor. Plus AEM makes some awesome filters.

I ran my K&N CAI (oiled filter) for 2000 miles and didnt throw any codes.
Every car is different and will take a filter or a CAI different than the next car.

What doesnt make sense is the code you usually throw is a "Lean" code. Now if all the CAI opens the intake from stock ridged plastic to a 2.5" or 3" manderal bent metal tube (or whatever you have) how will a oiled vs. a dry filter matter? You are still opening the intake to roughly the same air volume that passes the MAF sensor.
Can anyone, thats defending the dry filter doesnt throw codes like the oiled filters do, tell me how that is possible?

i have a question for someone who has an intake on their cobalt....i just put my intake on and it runs like ****....check engine light comes on....gets like 10miles 2 the gallon and doesnt have any horse power....what an i doing wrong?

i have a question for someone who has an intake on their cobalt....i just put my intake on and it runs like ****....check engine light comes on....gets like 10miles 2 the gallon and doesnt have any horse power....what an i doing wrong?

cobalt

What kind of intake? Did you get the MAF sensor dirty? Did you hook the MAF sensor back up? Go to a Autozone or some car place in that area and get the CEL code, then it will be easier to figure it out

Just did the K&N air filter box butcher mod. and would recomend it to any one who is saving up for the 3" intake. Not only can you hear the sweet ass supercharger better but it also increased my psi in the lower rpm range.

LOL I keep hearing people say this. This is not true - intakes and the CEL codes associated with them are unpredictable in all vehicles. K&N - I had no problems with.

Don't bother. No one listens. Regardless if it's a dry filter or an oil filter, you can throw a code. Temperature, elevation, run environment and build variables all play a part in whether or not you will throw the P0171 (lean) code.

Use what you would like, but you will always make more power with an oiled filter that is properly maintained...

Don't bother. No one listens. Regardless if it's a dry filter or an oil filter, you can throw a code. Temperature, elevation, run environment and build variables all play a part in whether or not you will throw the P0171 (lean) code.

Use what you would like, but you will always make more power with an oiled filter that is properly maintained...

Matt at Tune Time Performance actually tested the dry vs. oiled filter on his dyno and lost power when he switched from the oil to the dry filter. People need to learn how to maintain the filter and they'll all be happier...

Matt at Tune Time Performance actually tested the dry vs. oiled filter on his dyno and lost power when he switched from the oil to the dry filter. People need to learn how to maintain the filter and they'll all be happier...