1973 Lincoln MarK IV starting problem

TSHOOK

MEMBER

1973 LINCOLN MARK IV

128,000 MILES

Car started fine sometime had to turn key a few times to engaged the starter. I got it painted and now it wont start. Just puts power to a relay and that's it. Battery is good, new starter, just wont do antthing. Dash lights come on that's it

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Thursday, January 30th, 2014 AT 7:30 PM

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KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

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That relay you refer to, is it on the fender in the engine compartment? I don't have access to info that old here but old ford products had these. They go to the starter. Have someone try to crank the car and smack that with a screwdriver handle. If it starts it probably needs replaced. Also check any and all visible wires from the battery to the starter and make sure the battery is fully charged. Have that helper try to crank the vehicle while you listen with the hood up and see if you hear ANY sign of life. Loose wires will sometimes crackle and hiss

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Thursday, January 30th, 2014 AT 7:40 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

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THE ONLY WAY THE SCREWDRIVER "JUMP" WORKS IS IF THE POSITIVE CABLE (AND ACCESSORIES) ARE ON THE LEFT BIG TERMINAL OF THE SOLENOID (RIGHT BESIDE "S" TERMINAL)....OTHERWISE THE STUFF ON BOTH BIG TERMINALS NEEDS TO "SWAP SIDES"OR IF YOU ARE LOST--JUST USE A REMOTE STARTER

..............................TUCK ALL OF THAT AWAY FOR LATER!

LET'S START WITH JUST LOOSENING THE BIG NUTS ON THE SOLENOID AND SCOOCHING THEM WIRES AROUND, THEN TIGHTEN THEM BACK UP

TO KEEP ME FROM TYPING ALL NIGHTLOOK AT MY ANSWER IN THIS LINK.........LOOK AT THEM PICS I MADE AT THE END OF THE LINK TOO!

ALONG WITH THIS---CHECK THE GROUND OF THE SOLENOID TO THE FENDER----LOOSEN, SAND, SCRAPE AND SCOOCH! TIGHTEN IT BACK DOWN

LET US KNOW HOW IT'S WORKING OUT

THE MEDIC

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Friday, January 31st, 2014 AT 7:41 PM

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

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I wasn't telling you to jump the starter with the screwdriver merely to rap on the solenoid with the handle of the screwdriver while someone starts the car. Try the one on the fender(if there is one) and the one on the starter itself

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Saturday, February 1st, 2014 AT 9:15 AM

TSHOOK

MEMBER

That relay is on the firewall I replaced it but no change. I used a remot start and it started right up. It doesnt have a traditional starter relay. All the lines go to a block. Im chcking the column to see if maybe the tumbler skipped a tooth. And im In the process of tracing the s wire back

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Saturday, February 1st, 2014 AT 9:44 AM

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

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Youre on the right track. Use a test light to check the signal wire on the with someone turning the key to start the car. You should see it light up when the key is turned

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Saturday, February 1st, 2014 AT 9:54 AM

CJ MEDEVAC

EXPERT

DOIN' GOOD!

KEEP US INFORMED!

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, February 1st, 2014 AT 10:45 AM

TSHOOK

MEMBER

So after a couple of hours tracing the s line to the column. I removed the steering wheel and as I removed the ignition I see that the actuator that engages the push rod is missing the last wo teeth. Grinded down over time. If I push the rod in myself it starts. So time for a new actuator. Part number d1az-3e723-c. Also fits 70's mustangs and f250 trucks

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Saturday, February 1st, 2014 AT 7:03 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

EXPERT

I HATE "TWISTING" THE OLE WRIST TO FIRE UP MY '77 CJ 5.......NOT TO MENTION IT WAS GETTING TIME TO REPLACE THE CYLINDER (FOR THE 4TH TIME SINCE I GOT IT IN '91) AS THE KEY WOULD FALL OUT, IT COULD BE STARTED WITHOUT THE KEY (UNLESS YOU WENT TO THE "LOCK POSITION" AND JIGGLED IT "LOCKED"

IN THE PAST, I DID JUMP IN IT AND TRAVEL 30+ MILES WITHOUT MY KEYS----HAD A RUDE AWAKENING, WHEN I FOUND THAT I TURNED IT BACK TO "LOCK" AND COULD NO LONGER GET BACK HOME

SO...........THIS IS WHAT I HAVE INSTALLED NOW.....NO CUT/ SPLICED WIRES.....CAN BE PUT BACK ORIGINAL IN MINUTES!.......(I DO HAVE A NEW SWITCH IF I WANNA REVERT BACK).......BEST THING IS......I DON'T NEED KEYS ANYMORE!

NOW--THE REST OF MY PLAN HAS WORKED OUT!

I WANT A MASTER (HIDDEN UNDER THE DASH) KILL SWITCH, WHICH WILL "KILL" MY EXPOSED SWITCHES THIS WILL BE SORTA LIKE MY SECURITY/ ANTI-THEFT DEVICE

ON/ OR AT THE BOTTOM OF MY DASH I HAVE 3 TOGGLE SWITCHES

2 ON/ OFF TOGGLE SWITCHES WITH THE AIRCRAFT TYPE "FLIP RED SAFETY COVERS" ----ONE IS IGNITION---THE OTHER IS ACCESSORIES....SEE LINK

FOUND THE SAME, BUT LIGHTED SWITCHES AT "RADIO SHACK" FOR ABOUT $5 A POP!

THE THIRD SWITCH I ADDED IS A SIMILAR LOOKING TOGGLE SWITCH WITHOUT THE SAFETY COVER---THIS ONE IS A "MOMENTARY CONTACT" AND IS MY "START BUTTON"....IT IS "OFF" IN THE MIDDLE AND "STARTS" IN BOTH THE "UP" OR "DOWN" POSITION

NOW THE BEST PART!

MY PLAN WAS TO DO WHATEVER (TAKE IT APART/ MODIFY IT/ SOLDER) MY NEW MODIFICATION TO THE OLD IGNITION SWITCH..........THEN THE "MOD" JUST SNAPS INTO THE ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS....AS IT ALWAYS HAS.....IT JUST AIN'T CONTROLLED BY THE KEY ROD ANYMORE

MY STEERING WILL NOT LOCK, AS I HAD TO HOSE CLAMP THE ACTUATOR ROD TO THE LOWER COLUMN SO IT WOULD NOT ACCIDENTALLY LET MY OLD KEY SWITCH RATTLE AROUND AND LOCK MY STEERING WHILE DRIVING

I DID A GOOD BIT OF SEARCHING THE WIRE DIAGRAMS----COLORING THE WIRES I NEEDED--THEN DRAWING MY OWN

HERE'S PICS---LOOK FOR MY HIDDEN SECURITY SWITCH IN THE SYSTEM.............ALTHOUGH YOU PROBABLY WON'T GO WITH THIS....I THINK YOU WILL LIKE IT

MY BUDDY WAS IMPRESSED WHEN I PLUGGED IT IN FOR THE 1ST TIME AND THERE WAS NO 1ST TIME GLITCHES!.....THE WIFE JUST CAN'T COMPREHEND MY OBSESSION FOR PERFECTION