Welcome to Service: Stories to celebrate those who serve...

Bhimsen Thapa Chhetri (right) works at Bini's Kitchen on Market Street in S.F.

Photo: Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle

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Owner and chef Dagmdwit T. Bekele pours roasted coffee beans for the redebot at Anfilo, her Ethiopian cafe in Oakland.

Photo: Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle

Service denotes many things, be it in a restaurant context or behind a bar, outfitted in a military uniform or in religious garb. But at its core, there lies an inherent sense of selflessness.

This is particularly acute in the food world: What’s more selfless than an entire industry dedicated to serving others, to feeding others?

This week, we’ve dedicated our weekly food coverage to the theme of service. It’s the second dedicated issue we’ve done — last year was Refuge — and again, it’s inspired by La Cocina, the San Francisco nonprofit that helps low-income food entrepreneurs, especially women and immigrants, start businesses.

Twice a year, La Cocina puts on a show called “F&B: Voices From the Kitchen.” Its goal is to share voices that are less-often heard. Each iteration centers around food through the lens of a singular theme. The next show, “Service,” will take place on Friday, June 1, at 6 p.m. at the Gray Area on Mission Street. Tickets ($65) can be purchased at www.voicesfromthekitchen.org.

In this Chronicle collection, you’ll see a variety of musings on service. You’ll learn about the connection between working a pastry station and serving in the Army. You’ll read about the lasting impact of a childhood influence, and discover how a single food business is the engine for an entire community. We explore the idea of tea service, and hear from the underrepresented women who serve drinks behind the bar.

And you’ll hear directly from some of the Bay Area’s most dedicated, and inspiring, service professionals. These are women and men who have dedicated their lives to serving others, too often without recognition or celebration. We’re proud to share their voices and hope that you, dear reader, feel compelled to hear them.

Paolo Lucchesi is the San Francisco Chronicle’s Inside Scoop columnist. He covers all breaking restaurant news in the Bay Area, from openings and closings to chef gossip and other food media. Before coming to The Chronicle food section, he served as the founding editor of Eater San Francisco, which launched in fall 2007, and later Eater National, which launched in fall 2009.