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dumb people always have shit opinions about eva, its like some kind of more reliable iq test

[20:47:33] I3uster: in 2015 a crack memer was sent to skype prison by a court of his Peers for a crime he didnt commit. he promptly escaped from his Maximum security Forum into the twitter Underground. Today, still wanted by the skype Group he survives as memer of fortune. If you Need a shitpost, if nobody else can fuck up a thread, and if you can find him, maybe you can hire: June.

Hi hi. It's been a while hasn't it. Just got all my (electronic) components and hardware, so I'm off to a machine shop to get this done.
Final Design: Hori RAP.4 Premium VLX Chinese Knockoff (I'll come up with a cooler name later :/ )

Spoiler:

General purpose: Rather than trying to make it modular like my last stick (was attempting to, at the very least), I instead just allowed it to be played traditionally by altering the shoulder (far right) buttons. I liked how the Hori RAP.4 P.VLX opens up with its hinge, so I tried to replicate that here. (Actually, now that I think of it, it's closer to the MadCatz TE2... Welp.) I've also allowed the joystick to be "adjustable". From preliminary testing, it seems easier to handle the stick when's it rotated about 30 degree counterclockwise. In case this doesn't work, it's possible to re-screw the joystick in such that it's parallel to the edge.

I tried to typically use 10mm walls, though in some cases such as the top and bottom panels they are 5mm instead. The supports are typically 10mm thick, though some are even bigger at 20mm and 25mm. It's approximately 460mm x 175mm x 70mm in size.

Whats that weird little bit on the side with buttons near the joystick? Some sort of thumb rest hatch?

On the Hori RAP4 P.VLX, it has a small compartment that stores the USB and locks the top panel in place. In my Chinese knockoff, it's pretty much the same thing - though not a compartment per se and it doesn't screw the top panel in place since I'm using magnets for that purpose.

Update: Current quote using a revised model (replace the hinge with just a thin rectangular hole) is about 5500 RMB or a little less than 1000 USD - without material. Yeah... no. For the record, I can go into Hong Kong and get a Hori RAP 4 Kai for 850 HKD or 110 USD, and a Hori RAP 4 Premium VLX for about 1100 HKD.

So after talking to confidants, I decided to return to the basics to see if that can reduce costs. I got rid of the chamfer and the hinge, so it's just a rigid plastic box. Like before, there is a metal support that bolts onto the top panel, which (hopefully) I can use to lock it down with magnets. I've also replaced the bottom panel with a steel plate because why not.

In my last design, I also made a weird support to try and attach the bottom plate to the sides. In this one, I made an entirely new shape that I've attached below - along with my current design. I wish I could attach my .stp file, but I need to figure out how :/

Jaded by the earlier quote, I'm aiming for under 4000 RMB. There's not much I can cut out - except for the metal, countersinks, unique supports, and cable hole.

I'm having issues with my VPN, so hopefully this new image host works out:

Did some general cleaning up on this thread, put some images in spoilers, etc.

Anyways, for the update:

The parts have arrived from the machine shop. I have assembled the C.FAP 8 - Chinese Fake Arcade Pro 8. I will post pics either tomorrow or the next day, along with the usual materials and costs. I can't wait to build my next stick.

On a side note - I've done mess up. I accidentally designed the joystick holes farther apart than they actually are, which has led me to (with the help of some colleagues) make a new joystick plate.

Notes:
Material is cheap here in China. Machining however cost a pretty penny. Honestly, if I were allowed to use the power tools here, I could've done it myself. Unfortunately, I had to outsource it to another machine shop that a close secretary (sort of) recommended for me. Because of the damn price, I had to remove a lot of features.

Basic design with countersunk screw holes for the most part. The "bottom" panel with the hinge is lower than the "top" due to the hinge - I wanted at least 50 degrees of freedom. The bottom hinge is like 43mm high, while the top is 54mm. The top panel is shaped like it is, so that a hand is able to get underneath the "face" panel and lift it.

The joystick has two positions: natural (parallel to the box's length) and personal (angled 30 degrees to the natural). The latter option is something I am testing out, since my preferred position is different from everyone else's - if it doesn't work out, then I can always switch it back to the natural position.

The buttons have a unique layout due to another condition - I want it able to be played in the more traditional fashion. Thus, without the finagling of The Platinum (or Le Stick Vertical), another person can easily play on it. Also, the white button on top is Select - since I mostly play BB, Select is the "Menu" button really.

The stick is also really heavy. Like, really, really heavy. It feels much heavier than the V.RAP 4 Kai.

Also, the lack of chamfers/rounds really hurts the wrist. I'm getting help from a colleague to fix that. That, and when I asked a colleague for some help with countersinks... he broke my "back" panel.

Been busy with classes, but I haven't neglected my stick making skills at all. Currently, I'm just replacing my CRAP's pcb to a PS4/PS3 one instead. After that though, I will be working on my next project.

This code does work. Will be testing to see if I can get the MPU6050 to work with it. However, an error has cropped up - damn thing will only work correctly when the button is pressed down. Not what I expected at all.

Though seriously, see the two (four total) slits on each arm guard? I intend on slipping in some velcro straps to hold my arm in place - 2 each at the moment, though I can add more if I determine it not to be enough. The holes are just button holes. Will have better (real) photos before this week's end.

I see. Interesting. That's going to be a bit tricky to get right, since your hands will have to be flush against the (Wood?, Plastic?) which might make you stretch a bit to get the buttons properly. Also you'd have a terrible time opening doors. And hooking the pair up together as a single input source, without it looking stupid (Maybe thread the wires through a faux chain and wrap them around the gloves to get a bit of a Birdie in Street Fighter feel. Just unwrap the chain, plug it into the set up and you're good to go). On the plus side you can use any gaunleted fighter as a base for the cover, like Yang from RWBY, Bullet from Blazblue, The aforementioned Birdie, etc.