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On this washer the problem is the washer drum rear bearing is worn out, a common problem and often caused by not using the correct detergent for a front loader, detergent is very corrosive, so special types are used in front loads to prevent soap residue corroding the drum bearing. Once the bearing go out then the struts that cushion the drum during the spin quickly follow.

Hello srcoray,Did you replace the clutch, just trying to get a feel for your hands on experience with the machine?If you did the work did your machine use the upper roller clutch bearing along with the clutch pulley mounted roller clutch bearing? The FAV6800AW uses a reversing motor and motor controller that powers the motor and clutch pulley to rotate CW in Wash/Agitate cycle and CCW in Spin Cycle.In Wash/Agitate cycle the roller clutch bearing should rotate freely CW allowing the agitator shaft to drive the transmission in wash cycle driving the tumblers to rotate only not the wash basket. In spin cycle the roller clutch bearing will lock up (one-way roller clutch bearing) driving the spinner shaft to rotate the wash basket and transmission CCW.Unless my thinking is wrong it sounds like the one way roller clutch bearing is frozen or dragging and not rotating freely in wash cycle rotating the wash basket CW.I’m an owner like you and will try to help.Just a few other questions;If you have a load of wet clothes in the wash basket and you select Spin Only cycle will the spin cycle complete with out dc/UC errors?With the lid raised can you rotate the wash basket CW?It should not; it should only rotate CCW and do that with very little resistance.Rich

Mine is doing the same thing. I opened it up to see what was happening and it was the drive belt tension arm bumping around. Soon, the belt started slipping during the spin cycle. Now it won't spin and the belt starts to smolder from the friction of the drive motor. If you haven't checked your belt, that's a good place to start.

Ours started knocking several months ago and then progressed to a high pitched sound when in the spin cycle. I manually turned the drum and heard and felt a bearing roughness. I lifted the drum assembly and felt a fair amount of play, which I think the initial knocking noise came from. On the sears web site a new rear drum mount cost 293.00. Today we went and bought a LG model wm2455hw at Home depot, on sale until 2/20/08. I couldn't see paying to repair a machine that only lasted four years.

Sounds like the spin coil/brake solenoid is burnt out or broken. This is a coil situated on the motor plate under the machine with a lever attatched to it. When the machine goes into spin cycle, this solenoid pulls the brake away from the outer drum to allow the drum and agitator to spin together. The shaft that goes into this coil should move in and out freely. If tight, replace spin coil/brake solenoid.