Plus: How to order like you’re from around here.

Visiting New Orleans and not devouring as many of the city’s beloved po’boys as humanly possible is, well, like not visiting at all. Locals across all demographics celebrate the massive submarine sandwiches as one of the standard-bearers of the city’s belly-busting cuisine. You’re as likely to see construction workers downing meatball po’boys at Parran’s in Metairie as you are to see suited-up lawyers tucking into roast beef at Mike Serio’s in the Central Business District—although you’d be hard pressed to find them agreeing on the best bread, the most satisfying filling, or the appropriate hot sauce. (Answer: They’re all good.) Here’s where to find superlative examples of the species in its native habitat. Bet you can’t eat just one.

Anatomy of a Po’Boy

Domilise’s is the archetype of all that’s right with New Orleans po’boys: the history, the care, the flavor. The five things they get right are:1) Butcher paper, wrapped with masking tape2) The pile of crisp iceberg lettuce on both sides3) The fresh, chewy Leidenheimer loaf4) That red sauce: ketchup, hot sauce, and mayonnaise5) The addictively crunchy battered shrimp (or oysters)

So Why is a Po’Boy Called a Po’Boy?

We’ll go with the most popular theory: Brothers Benny and Clovis Martin moved to New Orleans, worked as streetcar conductors, and then opened their own sandwich shop. In 1929, there was a transit strike, so they decided they would serve their out-of-work former colleagues for free. Soon, the sandwiches took on the name they called their pals—poor boys.

William Rush Jagoe V

A Po’Boy’s Perfect Pairings

It’s not really a complete meal without these four local accompaniments, which are heavily debated throughout the whole city:

The Bread: What differentiates these sandwiches from other foot-longs is the “French bread,” made at three bakeries: Leidenheimer, Gendusa, and Dong Phuong. If the bread is fresh, as the po’boy gods intended, your teeth shatter the crust and sink into the gossamer interior.

The Drink: It’s hard to improve on the po’boy’s typical beverage: a long-necked, ice-cold Barq’s root beer, its minty, medicinal flavor balancing out the fried and the fatty. Unless, of course, it’s one of the local (real) beers: Go for Abita Amber, Bayou Teche’s LA 31, or Tin Roof’s Perfect Tin.

The Hot Sauce: Purists agree that no po’boy is complete without a liberal dose of spice. But which one? The most popular choices are Crystal (smoky, peppery hot); Louisiana (balanced, complex, and salty); and Tabasco (vinegary, barrel-aged in oak), all of which are still made in-state.

How to Speak Po’Boy

Five terms that will up your ordering game

Debris (n.) — Shreds that fall off the roast beef while cooking and braise in the meat’s juices until reduced to a pure, meaty essence. The ideal topping for a roast beef po’boy.

Dressed (adj.) — Covered with mayo, lettuce, tomato, and in some places, pickles. Variations abound: At Mother’s, cabbage is swapped for lettuce to keep things crisper.

Erster Loaf (n.) — Another way of asking for an oyster po’boy. At Casamento’s, try one of these between slices of rectangular, pan-made bread.

Peacemaker (n.) — A po’boy that combines two different proteins, such as fried oysters and fried shrimp.

Vietnamese Po’Boy (n.) — The preferred New Orleans term for what’s basically a banh mi.

Still Hungry? Well, Go ahead and Get a Po’Boy for Dessert

Head to Ye Olde College Inn for the very meta fried bread pudding po’boy. It’s a crispy, sugary hunk of the classic New Orleans dessert. To make it, day-old bread is soaked and baked in custard. The next day, it’s deep-fried and served alongside rum sauce and powdered sugar. You can dance it off at the Rock ‘n’ Bowl next door or...just order another one! The crazy local delicacy is on the menu at the bowling alley, too.

The Tastiest (and Messiest) Po’Boys in the Land

There are an insanely large number of po'boy options in Louisiana. We took a little bit off your plate and made a list of our favorites.

Fried trout at Sammy’sAt a place known for its crispy seafood, the cornmeal-crusted fried trout is a standout.

Thanksgiving at Parkway Bakery & TavernYes, a po’boy with turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and gravy. Only available in November, obviously.

The Peacemaker at Bevi Seafood Co.More is more in this combo, in which Louisiana shrimp share space with roast beef and Swiss cheese.