Thursday, July 27, 2017

Stratford, Ontario’s Fine Dining Stalwart: The Prune and Bar One Fifty One

BY BRYAN LAVERY

Chef Bryan Steele has trained and mentored hundreds of
professional chefs. In his capacity as senior cookery instructor at the
Stratford Chefs School, the originality and diversity of culinary undertakings
that span his three-decade oeuvre have helped lay the underpinning for the
culinary revolution that we see both locally and nationally.

In what began in 1977 as a “self-directed sabbatical from
work,” Eleanor Kane and Marion Isherwood opened The Old Prune (then a tea room)
in Stratford, which led to successful careers as restaurateurs. With James
Morris of Rundles Restaurant, which opened the same year, Kane later co-founded
the Stratford Chefs School.

The Old Prune, under the direction of Isherwood and Kane,
cemented its reputation with Sue Anderson in the kitchen. In 1988, The New York
Times stated, “The Old Prune serves lunch, dinner and after-theater suppers in
three Edwardian dining rooms and on a patio. The creamy pastas and deft salad
plates are recommended here, as well as the loin of lamb with twice-cooked
pepper and sauté of spinach with sage cream sauce. Desserts include prune and
Armagnac ice cream and a very rich chocolate terrine. The fixed price for a
three-course dinner is $25.

Chef Steele took The Old Prune to another level. I first
became aware of Steele when he was sous-chef at Stadtländer’s in Toronto in the
mid-’80s. Steele has been chef de cuisine at The Prune and an educator at the
Stratford Chefs School since 1989. He had acquired a degree in chemistry from
Queen’s University before turning to gastronomy. The Old Prune became The Prune
after it changed hands in 2011 when Bill and Shelley Windsor, who owned and operated
The Parlour Inn, took possession.

Steele and sous chef Michael Fry continue to elevate the
dining experience at The Prune with a sophisticated and approachable menu that
is handsomely prepared and well executed. Ryan O’Donnell’s role as executive
chef of the Windsor Hospitality Company (which operates The Prune, Mercer
Kitchen/Hotel, and Levetto Baden) is to support his colleagues and assist in
integrating Bar One Fifty One, the new adjoining bar to The Prune’s kitchen,
says O’Donnell. “This integration is a team effort using the many talents of
our chefs both at The Prune and Mercer Kitchen. From a culinary perspective we
are excited about the synergies we can create between the three restaurants and
how they will help us create better and better food across the board.”

Designer Emily Wunder, an integral part of Mercer Kitchen’s
rebrand last year, collaborated with the Windsor’s on Bar One Fifty One to
curate an atmosphere that feels exclusive without pretention. The goal is to
echo the natural elements found in The Prune’s gardens and trees. This is
achieved with the extensive use of wooden surfaces and naturalistic patterns,
accented with energizing golden tones and lighting. The bar’s relaxed and
elegant vibe is the perfect backdrop to the signature cocktails, varied wine
list, and tailored bar menu.

The Bar One Fifty One menu concept is based on the best
qualities exemplified by the many small cafés and bars Chef O’Donnell
frequented during a half year in France. Customers can feel welcome for any
type of experience be it lunch, dinner or late night snacks and cocktails. A
short curated menu offers classic dishes chosen for their comfort factor. The
goal is to execute simple and satisfying plates with the care and quality The
Prune is known for, at an accessible price point.

The menu in the dining room at The Prune is an ever-changing
seasonal prix fixe, offering two courses for $59.00, three courses for $75.00,
or four courses for $85.00. This arrangement helps expedite the challenges of
pre-theatre dining. The restaurant is formal but only in the sense of being
professional. The menu designed for a prix fixe experience is available à la
carte upon request. Appetizer dishes might include Chicken Liver Mousse,
seabuckthorn and rhubarb chutney, brioche; Hot smoked Boone Run trout, radish
and cucumber salad; or Seared squid, seaweed, kale with turmeric-ginger. Mid
courses are currently Risotto with cherry tomato, basil, thyme and house-made
ricotta, and Tortelli with onion, bacon, fresh peas and herbs. Traditional main
dishes could include “Smoked” Muscovy duck breast, white bean, frisée and
caramelized cabbage, or Seared Cornish hen, spinach and mushroom salad with
herb dumplings. There is a grilled 28 ounce bone-in rib steak for two, with
white asparagus and sauce Choron ($10 supplement per person). For an additional
charge, sides are offered, as are specialties like the house-made sourdough
bread baked fresh daily and served with house made pickles, butter and labneh
(a yogurt-style cheese).

Manager Shelley Buss has crafted an excellent cocktail list.
Steele and Buss have paired each dish with a wine. Buss takes pride in offering
new and exciting wines for guests to try, that they may have not heard of before.
The Prune likes to primarily offer Canadian wines by the glass, with a few
additional options from around the world. The bottle list is Buss’s pride and
joy. It is extensive and has many selections that can’t be found anywhere else
or are rare vintages.

Steele’s cuisine reflects a gastronomic sensibility that is
global and finds inspiration in regional producers and seasonal growers. The
challenge during the busy theatre season is for service to be unswerving. The
restaurant generally operates at a very high skill level and the service is
intelligent and responsive. There is also a charming outdoor patio.

With the announcement that Jim Morris is retiring and
Rundles will close at the end of this season, The Prune will be among the last
of the fine dining stalwarts left in Stratford. The Prune and Bar One Fifty One
are always worth a trip for an optimal and vital dining experience, even if
you’re not attending the Stratford Festival.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Ontario Culinary Tourist

I am a
writer, culinary columnist and food and social media editor in London and
Toronto, Ontario. A chef, former restaurateur and hospitality consultant with
over thirty years in the industry, my work has appeared in a variety of print
and on-line publications. I also freelance written editorial and visual content
for tourism and corporate clients.