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Now I realize you guys will likely harbor some mistrust towards the guy with only 1 post - however I can assure you I have done enough trading, haggling and buying in the past on the A5og, where you could check my Itrader feedback (which ought to be flawless, if you don't have an account I can send you a screenshot ^^).

Having finished my A5 project for now, leaving the milsim part of paintball to itself for a while, I am now in the market for something more speedball-y, however still mechanical and something I can tinker with. Enter the Automag. From what I've read, I should probably go for a RT Pro (Pro since that one is compatible with the Xvalve), but I'd be interested in your standard everyday automag as well.

Note: Xvalve is entirely optional. Currently I'm mostly just looking for a platform to start from.

I paypal fast, note however that I am located in merry old Europe - I'll cover full shipping though

So throw stuff at me (with a price please), worst I can say is no. I intend to respond to all offers, however should my inbox go insane, I may not be able to get back to everyone - in that case I apologize in advance.

Got a valve
Got a Barrel
Getting a body

Looking for:

RT Pro Rail and searTrigger FrameDeadlywinds grip (maybe - but if you got other great looking grips, feel free to offer)

I don't have any mags for sale, but congrats on your decision to break into the Mag family! RT Pros are awesome guns.

Note that the Retro Valve (which is standard on the RT Pro) and the Xvalve are identical in performance. The Xvalve is just alluminum, so it's lighter. I recommend that you get a mag with the level 10 bolt (mechanical anti-chop), whatever you end up with. If you want something nice and are paying overseas shipping anyways, I'd recommend an RT ULE Custom. That will have the Xvalve, level 10 bolt, ULE body, pretty much all the goodies.

Claws,
I've been Maggin since I got into this game(98 or so) I got from 2 beater mags AkA field rental's to high end stuff. We can talk and build some fairly mild to wild mags depending on your budget and how you want to start. I can re-arrange bits and pieces or assemble a complete mag. your option. I can get you pics of parts or put together a mag from my parts. price varies from what I got to what you want, some are alittle closer to my heart then others. Talk at me.

Wow, that's an amazing offer. I'm a bit stunned by all the open arms welcoming I'm receiving on this forum - never happened anywhere since A5og. So I've done some reading and I think I now know the basic part list of a mag. Valve assembly and bolt; Body; Rail; Foregrip; Trigger frame; Sear; various screws and O-rings. Did I omit anything vital? Please correct me if I'm missing something! I read the "building a mag" FAQ already

Now if anyone could answer the following, probably insanely noob, question I'd really appreciate it: What makes a mag standard vs RT. Would I be correct in assuming that its mostly about the sear and the rail? I also read something about a trigger grip frame having "wings" or not - and depending on that it can fit standard or RT (though any RT will fit a standard rail if you sand those off?). Thanks a lot for all the positive reinforcement!

Classic vs. RT: The RT's "push" the trigger forward after a shot. RT is reactive trigger. Classics reset when trigger pressure is released, RT's reset before trigger pressure is released. Sears and rails on an RT are a screw in sear axle pin, the Classic is a drop in pin. RT's are more "fixed" with less play in the axle pin then a Classic(AM/MM).
Wings, Classic(AM/MM) rails have a beveled bottom to keep everything(Frame,asa's, And such lined up. Rt's are flat and use like 2 screws to keep them from moving. A RT frame like the intelly frames will fit a Am/MM rail. Benchmark Frames are the big "Winged" or not frames. Vert ASA'S pick you frame style, Winged fit the Am/MM rails, RT /E-mag fit the flat bottom rails. Lord, How do you describe "how to breath"? I'll try to amass pics of the varieties(flavor of the week) for you. I grew up with these thing so it get's hard to describe. Remember!!! the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Fire away I'll try to make myself clear. Oh I forgot to mention the difference between a Classic RT trigger frame and the rest. Classic RT frames are made to run a banjo bolt through the frame,rial, and into the valve body. Big hole. Classics/RT/E-mags have a field strip screw(10/32) screw that holds the frame,rail,valve together. And then you get into the rail bushing deal. Don't run screaming off into the night just yet. Mag's have evolved and I've seen all of it, and so have many others who might be able to explain Darwin's theory of Mag's better then I can. Or at least clearer. But I'll give it my best shot.

I recognize Mr. Claws, stand up guy from my experiences in the past. Good luck with the project. I have everything minus a grip/frame to organize a basic classic valved mag. Let me know if I can be of help.

Classic vs. RT: The RT's "push" the trigger forward after a shot. RT is reactive trigger. Classics reset when trigger pressure is released, RT's reset before trigger pressure is released. Sears and rails on an RT are a screw in sear axle pin, the Classic is a drop in pin.

I know the basic concept from my A5 . I am in the process of getting myself a lukas milled RT Pro rail.
Can I fit a standard ULE Body to a RT (long) rail? How about grip frames? Which ones are compatible with RT Pro (I think its clear now, that I'm going that direction), which aren't - essentially what are the visual factors that tell me it's (not) going to work? I've got a Z-grip in my sights, don't want to buy it before knowing it'll fit though.

A RT frame like the intelly frames will fit a Am/MM rail. Benchmark Frames are the big "Winged" or not frames. Vert ASA'S pick you frame style, Winged fit the Am/MM rails, RT /E-mag fit the flat bottom rails.

I recognize Mr. Claws, stand up guy from my experiences in the past. Good luck with the project. I have everything minus a grip/frame to organize a basic classic valved mag. Let me know if I can be of help.

BarkingSpider - didn't know you were part of the "Automag crowd"! Thanks for the positive feedback!

Z's or Y's should fit either an AM/MM or an RT Pro rail. Benchmark frames are the ones that are "Winged" or "Flat". Airguns pretty much made their trigger frames to fit most everything. He... I put an intelly on a Sydarm, Stock class pistol looks weird with a double trigger. So what have you got and what do you need? ULE's fit anything also.

welcome, I also started with tippmann and made it up the ladder here, if you are starting a build from pieces check the BST there have been lots of good sales lately.
Good luck and make sure to post pics.

Reebs. Thanks for clarifieing. I was thinking there were Z grips with wings but its been to long for me to confirm that statement. Them were made in a different era of mags than what most people are used to. Back then you had automag specific and automagRT specific. Since the (classic RT) uses a banjo bolt. Everything was specked for one or the other. Although the winged frames can be milled to work easy enough. And I've made a few frames run on my classic RT by drilling out the banjo hole to spec. They were designed and marketed at the time for one or the other.

Reebs. Thanks for clarifieing. I was thinking there were Z grips with wings but its been to long for me to confirm that statement. Them were made in a different era of mags than what most people are used to. Back then you had automag specific and automagRT specific. Since the (classic RT) uses a banjo bolt. Everything was specked for one or the other. Although the winged frames can be milled to work easy enough. And I've made a few frames run on my classic RT by drilling out the banjo hole to spec. They were designed and marketed at the time for one or the other.

So I got myself a freak bored lapco bigshot and a E-mag valve with lvl 10 (the latter seems rather crucial for a mag to work great). Now to see if my tank has enough output (Not sure, its a Myth Reg at 850 PSI, but I have a newer gen smart parts Max Flo somewhere) - Negotiating a Ripper Body as well. Now all that's really left is the grip (that Z-grip sure is tempting, but 220 bucks is a lot to shell out for a single part, when I can get an Intelliframe for 60 or 80), the rail and the sear. If anyone has a nice looking RT Pro Rail with sear (I saw some great milling designs out there), that'd be awesome. Maybe get a spare set of O-rings as well. Am I missing a crucial part in my calculations?