Any local will tell you it's the little things that make "home" special – the perfect breakfast café, favourite place to prop up the bar or top spot to sit back and admire the view. The Locals' Guide To Edinburgh is a new book in which residents of Auld Reekie offer their tips on the city.

Where to stay

The benchmark by which all other hostels will be judged can be found at Edinburgh Central. Open since 2006, all contemporary rooms are en suite, have keycard entry, disabled access and range from single, twin and eight-bedded options. A stone's throw from Princess St, this hostel has it all.

Six Mary's Place is number one in countless guesthouse polls. Why? Georgian elegance meets contemporary comfort in this Stockbridge treasure. Not only that, but a reputation for excellent service, a vegetarian breakfast the envy of many a meat eater and a tranquil suntrap garden to make the most of the Scottish sun.

Where to eat

L'Alba d'Oro is about the finer chips in life: the vast wine cellar attracts a loyal clientele, and even the simplest of affairs is done with flair – every week there is a special guest fish whether local or from far flung shores.

Old-school British nosh at the retro Monster Mash. Photograph: Matthew James Reid PR

There are many reasons to go to Monster Mash. The staff are so upbeat and chirpy you might be fooled into thinking they've been tucking into too many of the retro sweeties at the counter. When the food arrives, you realise what the fuss is all about. Old-school British grub served in generous portions (sausages and mash, steak and kidney pie, fish and chips). Add affordable prices and kitsch canteen-style décor and Monster Mash is an all-round winner.

· 4a Forrest Road, Old Town, +44 (0)131 225 7069

Creelers serves up some of Scotland's finest seafood. Twinned with a sister restaurant by the same name on the Isle of Arran, its owners Tim and Fran James bring their west coast fishing roots and years of experience to the table. Keep an eye out for Tim's catch at the farmer's market.

Where to drink

A pub's pub. There is not one outstanding feature that makes the Thistle Street Bar great. Cosy fireplace, friendly staff, limited space and just the right mix of regulars and visitors all combine to make this unassuming watering hole one of the best bars in Edinburgh.

· 39 Thistle Street, New Town

The Waverley is the stuff of legend: a beautiful Victorian bar and probably the only one where there's more space behind the counter than in front of it. The owner is known but never referred to as The Captain; his unwritten rules include no swearing or using mobile phones. In return customers are graced with free crisps, the choice of just three different beers on tap and an shabby interior covered in posters from festivals gone by.

· 1-5 St Marys Street, Old Town

Take a walk

Arthur's Seat to Duddingston VillageHike up Edinburgh's most impressive geological landmark and recuperate in the city's oldest and cosiest pub, The Sheep Heid Inn. The pub has been around since 1360, making it one of Scotland's oldest surviving public houses. A traditional place with beer garden and skittle alley attached, it offers the best cold pints for walkers stepping outside the city.

Art

Edinburgh PrintmakersOnce the beacon of the printing and publishing industry, Edinburgh's history is alive and well at the Edinburgh Printmakers, Britain's first open-access art studio. Visitors have a chance to see the workings of this cooperative, take classes in printmaking and buy the work of local artists. Unlike commercial galleries, the proceeds from every sale go directly to the artist and/or the organisation.

Action

Canal Boat CanoodlingTake to the canal and hire a row boat from the Edinburgh Canal Society, just off Ashley Terrace (Morningside). The best way to get there is to head to Edinburgh Quay in Fountainbridge and follow the water. Open between 11am and 5pm on Sundays, on a good day it's an absolute must. At just a few pounds for every romantic hour, you have the chance to impress with your rowing skills or just drift downstream while you try to figure out how to get back.