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What happens when Australia’s best chefs spend two days together?

May 10, 2019

It’s the two days of the year when the most powerful palates in Australia come together to taste their way through some of the country’s most innovative, sustainable and delicious produce.

This Wednesday and Thursday saw the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards national judging panel lock forks as they devoured and deliberated their way through more than 100 home-grown products, from veal to saffron and never-seen-before natives.

Shannon Bennett was first to arrive, straight off a 6am flight from the Gold Coast. Colin Fassnidge – recently returned from filming a secret project in New Zealand – was heard before seen as he bounded into the room. Guillaume Brahimi strode in, kisses delivered to everyone’s cheeks. Christine Manfield was next, her single chilli earring confirming she meant business. A beaming Matt Moran was just behind her, closely followed by the interstate contingent of Alla Wolf-Tasker, Maggie Beer and Andrew McConnell. Peter Gilmore arrived cursing a no-show taxi. Neil Perry sat down just in time. The excitement in the room was palpable.

Before anything could get underway, Fassnidge instigated the annual selfie spin of the table’s lazy Susan, a social video that began three years ago and now is a firm tradition in national judging.

The mischievous side of the table is quickly established, and this year they’ve come fully clad in the same uniform – black T-shirts, jeans and black-rimmed glasses is the boy band outfit du jour for Brahimi, Fassnidge, Moran and McConnell. “I told him he didn’t need a jacket for lunch at a club,” Brahimi regales the story of when he punked Bennett. “He had to borrow from the maitre’d,” he finishes, crying with laughter.

“He told me super casual. I ended up dressed like a waiter for the whole lunch,” Bennett laments.

The banter is fast and furious. Known for his mysterious disappearances to make swift hallway phone calls to order up all the most interesting produce first, Gilmore is under the watchful eye of most of the judges: “Did you guys have a conversation before I got here? I feel I am being targeted.” Wolf-Tasker agrees: “Can someone call Fair Work? I’m being bullied already,” shooting daggers at Moran for suggesting she’s actually from Russia.

Over the packed days, there’s deliberation over cooking processes; the delicious. food team confers with the judges on the best temperature and time for pumpkin (Gilmore’s domain), beef (Moran, Perry and Wolf-Tasker) and goose (Beer to the fore). Too many cooks takes on an entirely different meaning at this table.

A wild honey product from NSW’s ‘bee whisperer’ enthrals. Camel’s milk receives mixed reviews (“It’s better than the ones I have tasted before,” says Brahimi; “It tastes like the zoo,” from Fassnidge). Native carrots benefit from a quick pan-fry. A rogue lobster nearly wins its bid to escape. Hand-harvested sea urchin nearly breaks the internet. A bamboo product that’s toxic when raw is snatched back just in time and cooked to be edible. The first raw-milk feta in Australia is celebrated. There are apples so good Moran gets caught stashing them to take home. Fassnidge is later outed for concealing bones and a goose neck in his bag.

Veil-thin slices of potato appear (“This looks like an Aria portion,” risks Brahimi, to Moran’s unreadable expression), and Bennett is left holding the tray. Such is the social media frenzy of these two days, he’s quickly surrounded by eager ‘grammers. “Don’t move, I’m not finished,” shouts Brahimi. “Get up, get up,” instructs Wolf-Tasker. “Sorry I’m not concentrating, here you go,” Bennett stands, proudly tilting the tray. “This is why I’m here. To hold the tray,” he resigns.

The beginning of day two is seafood judging, and local Saint Peter (number one in last year’s delicious. 100) and Fish Butchery owner/chef Josh Niland arrives with his expertise. “These oysters are so big, when you shuck them the tops pop off like they are trying to burst out of their shells,” he says. The judges clamour around him as he imparts wisdom.

Tensions can run high. Voices get raised and knowledge is challenged. But ultimately all spats are forgiven; everyone at this food-fuelled round table is driven by the passion they have to support and promote Australian producers –without whom their own craft would be impossible. “This is honestly my favourite two days of the year,” Moran confirms.

In one of the hardest years on record for Australian farmers, where many have had to innovate during drought and risk bankruptcy to continue their fight, these dedicated producers have often driven for hours to get their celebrated produce here for judging despite facing those extreme conditions. “Now, more than ever, we must get behind and support and promote our farmers and producers, that is the goal of these awards,” Gilmore declares.

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