McCall's Patterns Never Fit

I've always had a problem with McCall's patterns fitting me. So, I've been reading up about it on PatternReview.com. (Pattern Review Board) and also talking to the ladies that work in my local JoAnn Fabrics and in the fabric area of Walmart. Everyone says the same thing, "McCall's patterns NEVER fit!" I've read it's because McCall's patterns have 'lots of ease'. Has this been true for you too, or am I losing my mind?

I have been sewing for years and it used to be that all patterns ran too large....you would have to buy a pattern smaller than what you would wear in readymade. Then they started going the other way. I don't think it is McCalls but all patterns run small. They also are not as clear in directions as they used to be.

I don't notice major differences in how the various brands fit. I wear a 12 in patterns, though, and a 10 in purchased clothing. The problem I have in patterns PERIOD is that there is extra fabric at the back of the waist, above my rear end. Purchased clothes never fit me that way!

There are variations within pattern lines too, depending on the style. You can check before you cut. Take a garment of a similar fabric that fits you well and measure it. Measure shoulder width, bust, waist, hips, or whatever is critical for this design. Now check those measurements against the pattern piece. This will help you select the right size and perhaps adjust the pattern.

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BTW, Patternreview.com is a wonderful place for information about sewing. You can find reviews on specific patterns. They often include comments about the fit.

Not had a bunch of luck with simplicity either. Ive done several costume designs, for period costume work, both from simplicity and mccalls and both have had horrid fitment. Simplicity at times even seems to forget whole sections of finishing details in the patterns and instructions, a pattern showing a gathered leg pant in both drawing and picture, yet the pattern and instructions make no accomodation to match the clothing to the picture, ending up with freakishly large leg openings, with finished edges as if they werent intended to be gathered as in the photo/drawings.