This was my first stick and tissue in about 30 years. Because I am a babe in the woods on electric RC nomenclature, the idea of using a ready-to-hook-up system appealed, so I chose to use the radio and Powerplant out of the Flyzone micro SE-5. Also I am a cheapskate. The radio came out of a wreck, I treated myself to a new $6.99 motor and gearbox, $4.99. Had to make new, longer pushrods with .015 music wire. I mounted the radio right behind the firewall, and adapted the battery box out of the SE-5 wreck.

The kit was a treat to build, laser cut, very nice. I used my old childhood Magna Jig, just wish I still had all of the magnets. Also used it to stabilize flying surfaces while the tissue was shrunk and doped. It was an enjoyable, fun build, after many years out of model building.

I covered the upper surfaces in chocolate tissue and the lowers and fuselage sides in a cream from the Container store. It was glued to place with Elmer's white glue (also used in basic assembly). Tissue was shrunk with water and doped with Aerogloss clear thinned 50/50 with thinner. I did use some basswood in selected structural areas (one of three lower wing spars, struts, and LG legs and in appropriate places in the tail).

The completed model weighs 40 g. compared to 35 g. for a new condition Flyzone SE-5 which has a 14.5" wingspan compared to 16" span for the pup.

The plane has had 5 short test flights in unfavorable wind but no damage. It seems to fly ok, CG turned out right. Hit my garage with it and no damage. Strong! I bungeed the spreader bar so the wheels will collapse aft and the gear struts won't have to take the full impact of a nose down ground resonance incident.

I am hesitant to place the inkjet markings and coat of Crystal Clear that DPCM advises because of the increase in weight over that of the SE-5. I don't want to compromise performance until I do some more flying with the plane. I think it will be fine as the pup has a good deal more wing area and a full NACA type airfoil. Should be a good slow flyer. Anyway I am happy that it flies at all!

Another point that aggravated me was that I have about $60 in the project and if I buy an $11 can of Crystal Clear and a $19.95 can of 3m spray adhesive to put the paper insigs on, I have bumped the cost of this by 50 percent, just like the F-35. I did mention I am a cheapskate.

Ok flight test.... Plane flew straight and level but would not climb... Seriously underpowered at 5 g. (.2 Oz) heavier than a Flyzone SE-5. That is a 15 percent weight penalty. Any up elevator and it would start stalling.

I fitted a bigger prop to the plane, an Ares 5.5 x 2.75 (140x70mm) prop. I had to bore out the hole for the shaft with a hand hod pin drill frinished with a handheld crosscut fissure "700" straight hand piece dental bur. The plane was crazy zippy with this prop. It may put some stress on the motor but at $6.99 per motor I can live with that. Have more flight test to do before I am ready to add ANY more weight.

Actually this prop is more of a scale size proportional to the Aerowerks pup.

The Ares line is a house brand of Hobby Town USA. Stock number is AZSPO550275OUM for this prop. Comes with optionl spinner, which of course I did not use.

I sent some video to an experienced RC electric guy because I could not get the plane over a tendency to porpoise and I could not fix it with the trim. He suggested a little nose weight so I added a couple of 5mm Sheridan pellets inside the lip of the cowl. Kicked in some left rudder trim and she climbs in level flight. Best results as always with micros are in dead calm.

Plane has had about 15 test hops, upper wing has been knocked loose but not off three times, no other damage. The floppy disc hinges are working very well. I have added the roundels and a top coat of Krylon matte clear. Gross weight without battery is now 1.6 oz, .4 oz (33 percent!) more than the weight of the foam biplanes Flyzone intended the system to fly, but it works with the bigger prop.

Griff I'm a cheap skate too! I think you'll find waterslide decal material on ebay for a really good price, They're printable on inkjet or lasor printers, my inkjet doesn't have water proof ink so I put on two thin coats of clear lacquer. The cheap kind that is $2.95 for a large can, enough to do 50 planes. I think I got 10 8 x 10 sheets for $9.00 with free freight and I'm still on the second page a year later. Made these decals to mimic my buddy's real Cub and he was totally impressed.

Very nice! I am a lifelong modeler but have not built in a while. I tried to make some ~ 15-20 yrs. ago and the ink was too translucent for display models. I bet the new ink is much better. Great job - your Cub is a beauty! I have an inkjet printer and was just thinking about some German codes for a prototype 109 and the unholy hex on the tail.

I just use the photo quality mode and print a sample on paper to test the waters and quality then abort it to save ink, and print it on my decal media. They have different media for lasor printers than ink jets, but the price is the same. Big decals are a little fun to transfer, but once they grip they work nicely, although I haven't baked them in the sun for any extended periods, my planes tend not to last that long. The cub incidently was built from plans I found on outerzone.com; it was a Berkley models stick built rubber powered job, I made it over for electric flight and broke the various stringers a lot while covering the very tender airframe.

I now have 20 flights of at least 45 seconds with this plane. Not a great performer, you have to climb slowly with it. Should have left the markings and top coat off. Basically the Flyzone micro Powerplant and 3.7V battery package is not enough for good performance.

I have new respect for the structural strength and repairability of stick and tissue construction and am really impressed with AEROWERKS laser cut kits.

PS: 21st flight- crash!
Wind kicked up and carried the plane toward a wrought iron fence. The plane was in the sun and I lost it. Whammo hit the ground hard. Flyzone gearbox trashed. Fortunately I had anther engine and gearbox in stock. Had to replace two lost struts, nothing broken just unglued. I reduced down thrust and right thrust and the plane now flies a lot better with more power. Luck of the draw, motor #2 seems hotter.

By accident I had glued the lower wings' last inboard rib, but not the spars, to the fuselage. It made for a no-damage breakaway in the crash

The pup has had 40 flights in the logbook - this does not count short trim flights or brief aborted sorties. If I counted every launch I would estimate total launches at 80 plus. Performance is ok but marginal. If I try another 16" span model I think I will drill lightening holes in the ribs. Basically the plane climbs slowly; it is after all dragging 33 pct. more weight than with the foamie micro bipes.

I have had some hard landings and some crashes and again I am very impressed with the durability of the model. I have had struts come loose and even torn lower wings off, even ruined a gearbox and did an engine and gearbox change, total cost $13.97 (!) but the wings don't rip apart like the foamie biplanes. Not so much weight penalty with epoxy repairs... I put the parts back with good old Elmer's.

I was scared stick and tissue would be too fragile but experience has shown not so much!

Btw I find keeping a "logbook" on 3x5 cards on my planes is gratifying, a good record, and a way of gauging my success and the longevity of my planes.

Glad your having fun with your new build give the motor about 3 to 5 degrees of down thrust, that will take care of the plane wanting to climb with throttle, and use a 2 cell lipo battery, that should make it a great performer, Take care and have fun, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL

Thanks for the suggestions. With the Flyzone guts, a 140mAh 3.7V battery powers the escapement and motor. I am not sure the power input can be much changed. The plane does have down and right thrust, I tried to emulate the factory installs on the micro biplanes that Flyzone makes. CG is on, in the second motor install I took off a bit of downthrust as I think initially I overdid it. I have moved my pushrods all the way to the ends of the control horns and that has helped with the over controlling issue. The plane is flying much better, now.

I think ultimately I need to invest in better equipment but I have no idea what goes with what and the catalogs are bewildering. I have an Internet friend who is working with me and ultimately I feel I will move up, just a bit.

The beauty of using the Flyzone guts is the simplicity and $52 per plane cost for Powerplant and radio. It's giving me stick time - a start - and I get to build a bit.

A typical flying session for me is six or seven launches maybe five minutes flying time. I have never run a battery all the way down. I am 64 and that may have something to do with it but I am pretty cautious. I fly on a golf course and sometimes there is a bit of wind and it can get sporty, I get faint hearted and set them down when I run out of ideas. I have been flying for a year and expended three Flyzone foam bipes before I tried building one. Right now I am operating the Pup and a Flyzone DR. If the wind is iffy i usually use the Dr, which I consider a bit more "expendable." Currently building a Guillow small (16") 109 which is a bit of a shot in the dark... Drilling lots of lightening holes... I am an old display modeler who has dabbled life long in flying models, but I am late to the table on these, just trying to learn and revive my stick and tissue skills.

A typical flying session for me is six or seven launches maybe five minutes flying time. I have never run a battery all the way down. I am 64 and that may have something to do with it but I am pretty cautious. I fly on a golf course and sometimes there is a bit of wind and it can get sporty, I get faint hearted and set them down when I run out of ideas. I have been flying for a year and expended three Flyzone foam bipes before I tried building one. Right now I am operating the Pup and a Flyzone DR. If the wind is iffy i usually use the Dr, which I consider a bit more "expendable." Currently building a Guillow small (16") 109 which is a bit of a shot in the dark... Drilling lots of lightening holes... I am an old display modeler who has dabbled life long in flying models, but I am late to the table on these, just trying to learn and revive my stick and tissue skills.

Hi I will be 60 in July, I Know I look 29 but I am going to be 60, I have been building and flying CL and RC for over 48 years, Thank My Father for getting me started with a Cox PT-19 Cl Plane The Problem is that I still Think That I am 18 years old LOL here is a recent video of me and my control line E Power Buster Airplane, Take care and have fun, Chellie

Follow up, the Pup has been flying for two months now, has 60 some flights logged. It is a bit underpowered and right at the limit of the Flyzone package's ability. The plane has had crashes and I have had to do some minor structural repair and recovering but I am very pleased with its strength, resilience, and repairability.

It's funny that the subject of the Sopwith Pup should come up. An old friend I flew with 20+ years ago came into the shop the other day and dropped off an Orline 1/5th scale Sopwith Pup for me. His age and eye sight just didn't allow him to build it, and I am one of the last people he know in the hobby that still loves to build model airplanes. I looked at the plans, nothing but sticks and ribs, my kind of plane. Right now it is up in the garage rafters, but come late may it will become my Summer build project.
Life is good!

Tissue sealed with 50-50 thinned Aerogloss clear, and a quick dust over with Krylon clear matte spray. Grass was very damp this morning on the flying field, very humid, and I have some baggy tissue. It's going to tighten up after a while. 67 flights, some repaired damage, still flying well but it was starting to get heavy this morning!