Last week's restaurant review took us to Nonna, a neighborhood-friendly tavern from the D.O.C. crew serving mostly Old World Italian on one of Portland's busiest restaurant corners.

Here are three things you should order when you visit:

Squid-olive linguine: One of two pastas typically available, the squid and olive linguine, with its tender calamari rings, whole Kalamata olives and eye-opening red sauce, put me in mind of an uptown puttanesca.

Tomato-ricotta manicotti: The dish that might have inspired the name -- "Nonna" is Italian for "grandmother" -- this gooey, saucy, homestyle tomato-ricotta manicotti might actually be better the one your grandmother made.

Trout with salmoriglio: Trout with crackling skin
topped with salmoriglio, the southern Italian spin on salsa verde. If
you don’t want to eat the skin, you’ll have to push the sauce off the
fish to get at the flesh. Eat the skin.

Also try: The concrete-style espresso panna cotta or the bread pudding served in a sweet pool of simmering lemon and fine vermouth.