Makeup maestro Derrick Rutledge shares tricks and tips

Orange is the colour for spring, but you don't have to break the bank to look beautiful

Make up artist Derrick Ruttledge started as a fashion photographer. His favourite beauty product is Lancome oil-free eye makeup remover. “Many women don’t realize that wrinkles are caused by eye makeup that isn’t properly removed before going to bed.”

Photograph by: Handout
, Derrick Ruttledge

Dubbed the Makeup Maestro, the American artist has worked on famous faces ranging from Chaka Khan to First Lady Michelle Obama for more than 27 years — including a recurring role as TV queen Oprah’s go-to beauty guru since 2009.

In honour of the much-anticipated beauty shift to spring, Rutledge chatted with The Sun about the season’s hottest trends, his celebrity clients and the one thing that every woman should have inside her makeup bag.

How did you get started?

For as long as I can remember, I have always been an artist. I actually started by taking fashion photography. I loved taking pictures of beautiful women, but I noticed that the beauty wasn’t coming across through film. I started asking the models if I could do their makeup, and they loved it. Now, I simply see the beauty industry as a natural fit for me. I feel very blessed to be doing what I love and to be working with such inspiring women.

Where do you call home?

Washington, D.C. is technically my home, but because of my busy travel schedule, I do my best to make home wherever I land. Unpacking my belongings and settling into each hotel prevents me from feeling lonely on the road.

What is the mood or story of spring/summer makeup?

Based on the fashion shows I attended last fall that were predicting spring trends, the most popular colour this spring will be shades of orange from apricot to peach. You’ll start to see shades of orange in both sheer and matte options. Although bold, this colour can work in for all age groups as long as you look for the right tone of orange (yellow/orange vs. white/orange) that will best complement skin tone.

Shades of turquoise, blue, green and purple will also be popular this spring. The spring look is bold with high pigmented sweeps of colour on the lid.

Which is your favourite new look?

The elongated cat-eye. This technique can make smaller eyes look bigger and it also adds a lift to eyes that are naturally droopy.

Is there one new beauty trend you think every woman can pull off?

The cat-eye. Every woman can pull it off with a little practice. It’s best to start off with a pencil liner and as you get better, move to a liquid liner because it offers more precision. What a lot of women don’t realize is that liquid liners come in navy, dark emerald green and dark purple which are all nice alternatives to black.

Last spring/summer, bold pops of colour on the lips were a big deal. Is that going to continue?

Yes. We will definitely continue to see bold lips as we move into the spring and summer seasons.

Hairstylists are forecasting soft, slightly messy updos and braids will have a big moment in spring. What makeup look goes best with these styles?

Sheer and soft. Start by dusting the face with a mineral powder to achieve a sheer even tone. Next, apply bronzer to the cheeks, forehead, chin and bridge of nose to achieve a sun-kissed look. Keep the eyes simple by applying waterproof mascara. Finish by applying an apricot or clear gloss to the lips.

What’s the best day-to-night look for spring?

The sheer and soft look mentioned above will carry you from the day hours and into the night. As an option, switch out the gloss for a bold lip colour as the sun sets.

Finish the sentence: Every woman should have ___ in their makeup bag?

Good pressed mineral powder for touch-ups throughout the day.

For a woman on a budget, is there one or a couple of new makeup items she can pick up to update her look without buying a whole new “face” of products?

Yes, definitely. Red lips were very popular last fall so instead of purchasing a new lipstick, find a gold or apricot gloss and then layer the two for a spring orange colour. Apply a sheer layer of the red lipstick on the lip as a stain and blot with a tissue. Finish by applying gold gloss and you’ll have the orange lips without having to purchase a new lipstick.

Is there a secret to great skin from a makeup perspective?

Use a good moisturizer at night. Your skin works to rejuvenate and renew itself throughout the night so that it’s nicely hydrated in the morning.

You have worked with some of the biggest celebrities in the business including fan fave Oprah. What’s it like working with these stars and is there a “look” they always request?

All of the celebrities I work with leave their look up to me. When I’m working with Oprah, I take into careful consideration what she will be wearing and what the occasion is. Oprah gives me creative control. I am a soft natural painter and this works well because it’s much easier to build onto a look rather than remove at the end.

Story Tools

Make up artist Derrick Ruttledge started as a fashion photographer. His favourite beauty product is Lancome oil-free eye makeup remover. “Many women don’t realize that wrinkles are caused by eye makeup that isn’t properly removed before going to bed.”

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