LW adjustable trigger stop issue

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Just installed a LW connector, trigger spring and adjustable trigger stop. Adjusted the trigger stop to get a decent trigger reset.

Testing the reset, I cycled the slide with the trigger pulled and when I let off the trigger the striker fires. Removed and installed a couple more times to see if something would seat better and the same thing.

If the rear pin in the handle is removed, the striker doesn't fall when the trigger is released with the LW trigger housing installed.

Reinstalled the OEM trigger housing with the LW spring and connector and everything functions fine.

The only visable difference I can see (besides the allen screw stop) is the metal tab on the top is thicker on the OEM than the LW trigger housing. Also the OEM has a 1 stamped on the side and the LW has a 2.

Are there 2 different trigger housings available? Any thoughts why this would occur with the LW trigger stop?

Well after more investigation, it turns out to be the correct part that did not function propery. The 1882 stamp only designates the type ejector and not the whole part. Returned the part for a refund.

I'm going to drill and tap the OEM trigger housing and install a set screw.

OP you have also added an aftermarket connector and trigger spring. The housing, except for the setscrew, is actually stock. After ruling out a wrong trigger housing, swap in a OEM connector and trigger spring to see what happens..

OP you have also added an aftermarket connector and trigger spring. The housing, except for the setscrew, is actually stock. After ruling out a wrong trigger housing, swap in a OEM connector and trigger spring to see what happens..

Click to expand...

There is a difference in the housing where the OEM has a 1 cast in the plastic and the LW adjustable had a 2. Since I sent the LW back already, I can't perform the test you suggest.

What I don't like is the the grittyness when taking up the slack in the trigger. I don't have much experiance with glock as I do with other pistols, but I can sure tell there are interferences in the pull.

I'm tempted to bend the connector so it doesn't project so far to the side. It seems to side load the trigger travel bar into the lower frame causing undue friction. Just an observation and I could be all wrong...

Finally got around to bending the connector and it made all the difference in the world. It doesn't feel like it is draging against the frame anymore.

Here's a segment from the Ghost installation instructions describing the correct outward bend for the connector.

Check the outward bend angle of the connector. This is done by sliding a piece of (.003 or standard 20 lb paper) paper between the connector and the top portion of the trigger mechanism housing. The paper should slide through with a little resistance. If the paper does not slide through then the connector needs to removed and bent out ever so slightly. If it slides through with no resistance the connector needs to be removed and bent in ever so slightly.

Adjusting the connector made a significant difference in the trigger pull. As suspected, the connector was dragging on the frame. The LW connector was suppose to be a drop in with no adjustment necessary.....it just needed a little adjustment.

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