1) Trapeeze Ropes – These bad boys keep me from becoming a rope-swing missile, or simply loosing my footing. One rope goes from beam to beam, with another rope that connects the trapeze ring to this rope using a “Blake Hitch”. This allows you to custom lock yourself from moving forward or backward anywhere along the hull – but still allowing quick escape upon emergency. Downside is it takes some time to learn how it sets up and moves. You have to custom adjust it every time, but once you figure it out, the extra 15 seconds is rewarded with unmatched stability. I even use this solo. No more losing foot contact with the boat, no more being launched forward, no more slip sliding around! When you hit turbulence, the angle of the rope actually forces you into the hull, so you can absorb the shock with your legs. http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/chris ... sort=3&o=6http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/chris ... sort=3&o=5

5) Cat trax cradles – These homemade cradles (Oatey 4 in. x 3 in. PVC DWV Saddle Tee Kit) cost $10 each. I put a 3” PVC pipe into the bottom to help guide a doorknob hole drill bit through to make an arch in the bottom. Then I use a dremel sanding bit to widen it to fit the axle. Even comes with the hardware, but it will have to be reworked when it rusts.http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/chris ... sort=3&o=0

6) Cat trax rope extensions – this rope system prevents the cat trax axle from moving around under the boat. I used a “Carrick Bend” knot to attached a new line to the existing line. The two lines meet and clasp to a D ring I have around the wing seat hardware. http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/chris ... sort=3&o=0

A short rope (3 ft? in TAN on my pics) is knotted in the center to the trapeze dogbone connection, with each end tied in a Blake Hitch in opposite directions onto a second, long rope (15ft? BLACK on my pics) that runs from either end of the wing seat brackets, with a D-ring.

The entire TAN Blake Hitch system can slide along the BLACK rope when not under tension. However, as soon as tension is applied, the Blake Hitch grips the BLACK rope and locks you in place.

To properly set, once you are trapped out, you must pull the BLACK rope through each Blake Hitch such that the slack is pulled in between them, and produces tension in either direction. You still trap exactly the same way, but the dogbone is ends up locked in 3 directions - up to the mast, forward and backward.

It can be a pain to get in and out of, since the trapeze wires are in the middle of the boat, yet you need generally want to move your weight to the back, and this needs to be reset every time. And there are lines running that end up in the way at times you don't need them. But I assure you, it is easy once you figure it out (a little tricky solo) – but provides stability second to none.

3:1 is just right. Any more would be overkill and too much stuff in that space once tightened. It's not that hard to pull anyway, and it gets plenty tight. For me, it's about ease and speed of setup, and it is perfect for that. I've not really considered lowering the cleat, and I don't think it would help any.

1. Getaway Symmetric Spinnaker. I built mine but you can probably pick one up cheap if you buy someone's used spinnaker. You need it 18 ft luff and 15 ft foot (you can vary those dimensions by about a foot shorter if you find a spin "almost" there--it'd be best to get one with a midgirth about 12 feet). You will need a halyard and 5 blocks (one at each corner and one for the halyard; shackle the halyard block in the top hole of the jib bracket on the mast). You will need 4 cleats...you can easily modify the getaway seats to make instant horn cleats. You will need 4 lengths of line, two sheets and two guys (one each tied to each clew). I also made a snuffer, but if you have crew you don't need that. Total cost is about $500 for this mod.

2. Jib downhaul. I removed the tensioner from the top of the sail and replaced with a slightly shorter piece of non stretch (vectran) line that I had lying around (a little longer than a foot long). I took the forestay shackle at the furler off and replaced with a clevis pin leaving the tack free. I took that shackle and moved it further down the forestay adjuster to an open hole. Took the tensioner line and tied it to the tack of the jib. Now I can raise the mast, unfurl the jib and wrap a few turns around the jib tack and that shackle to get as much tension on the jib luff that I will need that day for sailing (loose for light wind days, tight to very tight for windy days). AND, if I have good crew (is there any other kind?) I can have it retensioned during sailing if anything stretches. The tack will remain pretty close to where it was before, so I anticipate no issues with boat balance or sheeting. Pretty cheap-one clevis pin and a foot or so of non stretch line. About $5.

3. Mainsail Cunningham. Similar to yours but I bought 2 cheap fiddle blocks. I removed the downhaul cleat that comes with the boat and replaced with an eyestrap at the mast base in the track. I made mine 4:1 since I live in a big wind area and will likely need the extra purchase. About $50.

4. I bought the Getaway mast raising system but got rid of the bow shackles and replaced with snap shackles to make setup easier. I also removed the circlips and replaced with hitch pins. About $30

5. I bought the motor mount and got a 15 pound 2 hp 2 stroke outboard. I need a motor to get in and out of the marina where I launch. About $500

6. I modified the trailer to put a removable rear extension with a rear mast rest (with roller). This makes mast raising quicker. About $300.

7. Added a reef point to the mainsail; Yellow dacron almost matches the yellow; Pacific blue dacron is a little lighter blue than the Hobie mainsail; green dacron is darker than the hobie green on the Getaway. I had to replace the I in Hobie on the sail, but I had the insignia cloth already. Hardest thing was getting the green patch sewed since it is in the middle of the sail so you have to work to get the fabric to the right spot so you can sew the reinforcement for the grommet. I probably could have just glued it since that grommet doesn't see any real load. About $50.

Planned changes over the next year(s) include 1) replacing wire shrouds and forestay with vectran as the wires degrade; 2) Replacing mainsail halyard with vectran; 3) Make my own jib and pin top mainsail to better suit the wind conditions here (flatter and smaller mainsail, but the jib might be larger). Down the road, I may play with lee boards but I probably won't work too hard at it, the boat will never point well, but if I sail mostly when the current is with me when going to weather, I probably won't get too irritated.

I know, I did a lot of stuff, but it's been a long winter with not much else to do.