The RennTech.org community is Member supported!Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

View Classified Ads

DIY Tutorials

Porsche TSB Listings (limited)

VIN Decoder

Special Offers

OBD II P-Codes

Paint Codes

Registry

Videos System

View Reviews

and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

No ads - advertisements are removed

Access the Contributors Only Forum

Contributing Members Only Downloads

Send attachments with PMs

All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members

Porsche TSB Listings

Classifieds

Everything posted by slotsmd

2002 Boxster S - headlights won't come on full bright. When I rotate the switch to on position, lights come on but very dim. High beams won't come on when the switch is pushed forward, but they will operate when pulled (i.e. flash to pass).
Any ideas out there on probable cause and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks!

I just finished the 90K on my 2002 Boxster S. A couple of items I'm chasing and hoping for some ideas:
1. I recently replaced the window regulator on the passenger door when the window stopped dropping to open the door. The new regulator fixed the problem - for a while. Now about 2-3 months later, it's erratic. Before I rip the door apart again, any ideas on what I should be looking for in there?
2. During the inspection just finished, I noted a tube (with a clip still on it, and it's end melted) hanging down near the brake on the front right. It wasn't causing any problems, but I have attached some photos in hopes of someone being able to tell me what it is and what to do about it.
Thanks
John

So... as you can see in the attached picture my engine is set up a bit differently. the part I described as a manifold can be seen, with a hose running to the left rail, and the end of the hose that runs to the right rail as well. The third line parallel to the one going to the left rail drops down and corresponds to 8 in the diagram you provided. So in order to avoid disconnedting the push on type hoses at the rails, I'll have to get under the car, remove the covers, and disconnect the line down there. Am I right to be concerned about detaching the hose from the rail?

It appears there is a single connection at each rail, but that these are just push on type. I'm worried about damaging those lines while pulling one off. They meet up at a single fitting from which a line (presumably fuel from the pump) leads forward under the passenger compartment,

Back at it. My Bentley manual shows how to disconnect fuel lines from the rails but uses photos from a pre 2002, presumably 2.7l engine. It states procedure is similar for later models, but I'm not seeing the fuel line connection at the right rear as in the photo. Where would I look on my car? Do I just need to disconnect one rail?

Finally getting a break from the honey do list and opened up my Bentley manual to see how to check fuel pressure. It says 2002 and later have a non return system that needs a special tester. Is that right?

I haven't done these sorts of checks before. How do I go about checking MAF values and fuel delivery/pressure? I understand that looking for air leaks is a matter of methodically going over all the vacuum lines, and I've read up on various ways to look around, like using an unlit propane torch or the like. A professional would have a smoke device I gather, but that's too pricey for a one-time fix.
Thanks for any suggestions/guidance!

I tried swapping the CPS with no improvement in starting performance. So far, the car has always started but I'm a bit leery of driving it anywhere for fear of winding up stranded. Is there a chance the hard starting is related to the codes? I haven't had the chance to chase the leaks yet due to other projects on the list at home, but I hope to try to go after it this weekend. I'll check the vac hose as you suggest, San Rensho, to get started.

2002 Boxster S, 90K miles, 6 speed. History over last year included an IMS bearing failure and subsequent engine rebuild.
Symptoms: Car started throwing codes 1128 and 1130 a few weeks ago. Starting has always been very easy on this car, but along with the codes it became very labored- starts to crank very slowly for several turns then fires up. Idle seems slightly rough on occasion. I've also noticed an odd smell when I climb out after driving; hard to locate but most prominent in rear of vehicle and suggests something hot or burning.
So far: Cleared the codes the first time it happened, and they reappeared around a hundred miles later. Cleared them again, same result. Did some research which suggested MAF sensor might be at fault; replaced that and symptoms reappeared again. I've since cleared the codes again, and once again they've returned.
I've done a bit of research and it generally suggests MAF or an air leak into the oil system. Cap is on tight and AOS was replaced a bit over a year ago; I do seem to have a hard time getting the dipstick to seat properly and stay seated, but the last time I got the codes, I checked and it was down in it's receptacle with the O-ring in the neck where it belongs.
Does anyone have suggestions where to go with this next? I've searched this and other boards and coming up blank.
Thanks in advance.
John

Well, I was so bummed by this whole thing I never did close it out... it was an IMS bearing failure, long story short I have the car back now, engine rebuilt by a shop Raby-trained mechanic, and a few hundred good miles on it so far. Very expensive...

Was not restarted... a couple of other pertinent details. Noise went away with clutch depression, returned when clutch let out. Before I shut it off, I got out to listen and there was distinct metallic rattle, particularly seemed to come from back and underneath.

I was driving home from work this evening in my 82K mile, 2002 Boxster S when out of the blue heard a loud, rattling sound from behind my head. Car was making power still but of course I pulled over at which point I found a big puddle of oil running out from under the car. Had it towed to my local independent mechanic; continued pouring oil all over the flatbed on the way to the shop.
HIstory includes a new clutch and RMS last summer (4-5K miles ago), new water pump/timing belt/pulleys in October, and new AOS in December.
What have I suffered here, and is it going to be worth repairing? I dread what I'm going to hear on Monday...

I will keep an eye on it, but when I crawled under before I couldn't see an obvious oil trail from anywhere up high. I don't recognize the apparent drain plug in the photo; can anyone tell me what that is, and if that might be the source? It appears to be the low spot and the drip was forming on it, but there was oil on the surrounding area as well, which I surmise may have been blown there by airflow while driving.

2002 Boxster S, 87000 miles. New clutch 2 1/2 months ago, around 2000 miles on it so far. Just backed the car out this morning to wash it and saw oil on the garage floor. Jacked car and found leak from the area in the attached picture. Can't exactly pinpoint the source - any ideas? This is on the right side of the car, opposite the oil filter.
Thanks

I am pretty sure I'm looking at the throwout bearing. It's more than I have the time to do myself now, so will be taking it in. Along with renewing the other clutch components while it is apart, would you suggest the IMS and RMS too, even if I'm not seeing any symptoms of problems? My oil analysis has come back after 10K miles telling me I'm good for many more than that if I want, and I have no leaks...

I have no experience to fall back on for that problem. Would that result in a dramatic change in clutch travel required to shift? Before, it just took a very short throw of an inch or two, now must put clutch almost to the floor. Also, clutch used to have a firm feel to it; now it is notably less.

Well, now I've had a chance to give it a thorough road check (through some perverse twist of fate, my ignition switch broke on me the very day I noticed the clutch issue, and I just got the part to repair that today).
So, the clutch definitely isn't slipping. Some other symptoms in addition to described above: With car idling at rest, there is a vibration fed back through the clutch pedal, particularly around mid-travel. Also, it is difficult to describe, but shifts just don't feel usual; car gets into all gears no problem but there is just something a little off. And, as noted before, more clutch travel is required to make shifts than I'm accustomed to. It also isn't as tight getting into the gears as it was the other day.
Any ideas? Master cylinder? Slave cylinder? Cable? I have an appointment to leave it with my mechanic Tuesday, but I'm hoping maybe I am looking at a DIY instead.
Thanks all!

I'm afraid I know the answer to this one but want to confirm: 2002 Boxster S, 80,000 miles. Clutch feel and shifter feel both changed markedly over last couple of days; clutch travel required to shift is longer than usual, and it's much harder to get the shifter into gear. With engine off, shifter effort is still easy. No unusual noises. Clutch was replaced by previous owner at 30K miles.
Assuming I'm right and the clutch is going on me, how long do I have before it's gone completely? I'm in a pretty rural area and will need to travel at least 30 miles to get to my usual independent mechanic. A dealer would be 50 or so with a lot of city stop and go. The independent has worked on my car a couple of times and I've been satisfied, but he's not a Porsche specialist - a lot more Mercedes and BMW in his lot.
What's a fair price for a clutch job? The dealer quoted me $2200-$3000 which sounds pretty high even though it is an involved job.
Thanks all