Ha, you do same as me pretty much though I doubt I clean -up after as good as you. I had no problem soft soldering and even using plumbers flux after 20+ years nothing corroded or fell apart -yet. Of course silver soldering is ultimately better, but horses for courses and available workshop etc. Just make sure the brass etc is clean and roughed up and cleaned after. I use clip-on heat sinks to prevent damage to plastic (or crocodile clips wrapped in wet tissue), or on balsa jigs, keep adding water to stop burning. Whatever works!

Hi Andy the rivets I used are just like the ones you show the only difference is they were aluminium ones. I drilled them and put a 1mm fibre optic cable in them and several cables went to 1 LED bulb. This time I am going to look at fixing a small LED into the end of the rivets.John

Andy,Your model is progressing so well and the various fixtures and fittings will give an overall great finish. What I really did like, though, was your process of making the working telecomms tower mechanism, which looks pretty scale-like and realistic, whilst at the same time robust in its operation. I might well be using the same approach - when I get there - but using my black Delrin rods milled to the shape required for a few parts. This does allow for the 'collapse' method of transport, thereby concealing the model away from prying eyes when travelling, and also be able to display it like most Shannons would be like when in their boat houses, but at the same time a quick and easy [realist] raise and lock-off if required when on display. I think a lot of folk will benefit from a lot of your ideas and processes, even if a few then make their own slight tweeks and modifications.This Forum really does benefit from builds such as this. Keep up the good work and photography - so detailed.Kim