Hey thanks a bunch for this video. I have a D5100 and have been frustrated
with how my water fountains look in my pics. I don’t really care too much
about freezing the water in place because I know how to do that already.
But I haven’t been satisfied with how the water fountain pics came out
because even though I have my ISO set to 100 I couldn’t get the nice flow
effect like I see in professional pictures. Didn’t think about the shutter
speed.﻿

That was my big question, when cost is the limiting factor you do what you
need to. There is nothing wrong with the D5000, I prefer the D90 (same
sensor) but both perform well. For a jack of all trades the 18-200 will be
fine but it will leave you wanting when it comes to sports and low light.
You can always invest later in something like an 80-200 F2.8 or what have
you to fill out the needs as time goes by.

Thanks for the feedback. I am working on some options to get better audio,
it is currently one of my biggest issues. I’m using a Nikon D90 for my
footage at the moment, which does not have any capability for an external
mic. I have an HD camcorder which I intend to use in the future, but i’m
awaiting software to arrive that will allow me to edit its files. Then I
just need to save up for a newer SLR to gain the advantages of the latest
gen in video recording.

The 18-200 is a decent walk around lens, it is a jack of all and master of
non. If you want something to put on your camera and forget about, that
would be the lens. Why the D5000 instead of one of its replacements such as
the D5200?

I’ve verified my exposures on several calibrated monitors, they are not
blown out at all. An ND filter isn’t going to adjust the exposure, it will
simply adjust the amount of time the shutter needs to be open to get the
exposure you want. Which is dictated by your light meter or your
experience. What is water perfection? A long exposure is merely one option
not the perfect option. few users will watch an exhaustive video this was a
primer. Later videos can cover focus/tripod/etc.

on 4 separate calibrated monitors the images do not look blown out. You
might look into calibration software/hardware for your monitor. This video
was about long/short exposures and the technique and theory work regardless
of the hardware you use, any camera that has user control over
Aperture/Shutter speed will suffice.

You have a problem in that your image is blown-out. It is over exposed. Had
you used inexpensive ND filters 2-8 stops you would have achieved what you
intended to capture – water perfection. You did not cover focus – which
should have been 1/3 of the focal length, nor did you address vibration,
tripod use, lens, etc. Why did you post this?

TV is your shutter priority mode, set your camera to this mode, and dial in
a shutter speed around 1/10th of a second or slower. The shutter speed that
is needed will depend on how much water is flowing how fast over the falls.
Generally somewhere between 1/30th for really fast water, and 1 second for
slow water will work. Adjust to your desired result.

The D90 has a few nice features which I really miss when I go to bodies
that don’t have them, lens compatibility (only an issue if you have older
lenses or intend to buy older lenses) and the top LCD and front and rear
finger/thumb wheels are huge for me. But yes when it comes to getting a
solid photo both do well. And the money you save can go to more/better
lenses/tripods/flash/gaffers tape etc. Enjoy your new toy when you get it.