0 replies for this story:

Reply to this story:

Thu, 19 Dec 2013

Arduino SCX Digital to USB interface

I have a SCX Digital slot cars set,
and some years ago I bought an interface box for connecting it to the PC using
a RS-232 serial port. PC then can be used as a timer, lap counter, and race
management. Now I wanted to make some modifications to the firmware
(it uses AVR Tiny 2313 chip). I have discovered that the author does not
sell this version anymore, it has been replaced by a newer version with USB.
So I kindly asked the author whether he can provide me the source code
for the firmware for the old version. I have got the following reply:

Hi Jan
Sorry, I do not share any of my software.

Well, whatever. It is of course his choice to keep the firmware of the
abandoned version for himself. But in the meantime, I've got some experience
with electronics and microcontrollers
(see my otherprojects).

Introducing SCXreader, my own
SCX-to-PC/USB interface, built with Arduino Nano. It is fully open,
including the source code of the firmware. It costs about US$ 6.50,
way less than the current SCX-to-USB SEB interface.

8 replies for this story:

Myself, I wouldn't go for this. There is a clamping diode between the data pin and VCC, and I don't think it is a good idea to expose it to currents of more than 5mA when VCC is grounded. A lot of heat to dissipate for a tiny little diode...

I do not understand. The data pin is configured as an INPUT pin, so there is no way it can source any significant current when Vcc is grounded (I suppose that by Vcc you mean the Right rail pin). And also note that the diode is not between Vcc and the data pin. Anyway, this configuration is tested, and I have verified there is no significant heat generated.

No, there is a protection diode between any pin and VCC of the embedded processor (I don't know which Arduino model you use so I cannot look up the catalog data). If Arduino is powered down, the Zener diode will stay closed and all the current (of some 6 miliamps) will go right through the on-chip diode in Arduino. Take a meter and measure the voltages on R1 and Z1 when VCC=VSS and you'll get a picture.

Ah, I understand now. Two objections: 1) why would I clamp Vcc to GND? At the worst case, Vcc will be left floating, not clamped anywere. And 2) even if I will connect Vcc to GND, the current is limited by R1 resistor, so it would be at most 6.66 mA. Given that ATmega328 pins can source and sink up to 40 mA for each pin, I would guess that even the current between the data pin and Vcc pin of ATmega going through the protection diode should withstand similar currents. 6mA is not so much in terms of ATmega GPIO pins.

One more thing: the protection diode is - well - a diode. Provided that it directly connects the pin and Vcc, clamping Vcc to ground and having the pin connected to +18V via 2K7 resistor would mean that the total power dissipation on ATmega would be proportional to the forward voltage drop on the protection diode. Which is - i guess - somewhere between 0.25 and 0.5 V. For 6.6 mA current, the power burned inside the MCU would be somewhere around 3 mW, which is way less than the MCU normally handle. The rest would be burned at the resistor outside the MCU. So I think even connecting Vcc and GND on the MCU side would not bring any significant problems.

1. Wrong. VCC won't be left floating, if the power supply is disconnected, it will power the whole Arduino plus any peripherals you may have left hooked up. Some designs are based on this setup (see, eg, http://hackaday.com/2009/06/27/avr-rfid-tag/).
2. The AVR can sink up to some 50 milliamps, right, but the path is through an open CMOS transistor with negligible voltage, not through a junction, which has some .65 volts of residual voltage on it.
I'm not saying your circuit is going to destroy the AVR, only that it is a flawed design and definitely not in compliance with the catalog values under which the chip may be safely operated, ie, something I would never do to any of my three beloved Arduinos :-)

I got a multimeter, unplugged Nano from the USB port (leaving it plugged to the above mentioned circuit. The voltage between the data pin and GND is not very stable, but it oscilates between 0.3 and 0.4 V. Which is well inside the specs: the datasheed says that the maximum voltage on the data pin should be Vcc + 0.5 V.

Great! So Z1 is closed and the +18V is sourced, via R1, right into the protective diode, the current trough it being approx. 7mA. My recommendation is to insert a 27K resistor between D2 and the cathode of the Zener, which will make your design safe and robust, with negligible impact on its function.

Reply to this story:

Name:

URL/Email:

[http://... or mailto:you@wherever] (optional)

Title:

(optional)

Comments:

Key image:

(valid for an hour only)

Key value:

(to verify you are not a bot)

Sun, 15 Dec 2013

Slot Car Tyres

The tyres of our slot cars are not as good as they used to be,
so I wanted to buy new ones. However, the local seller has been
less than helpful, so I searched the Net. Apart from U.S. slot car supply
sellers (tyres for US$ 7.50, shipping into the Czech republic for US$ 25+),
I have found this page, so I have decided to create my own tyres.
The original tyres look like this:

Firstly, I have created the box for a new mold, using heavier paper with smooth finish:

The tyres are fixed at the opposite sides using dual-side adhesive tape.
This allowed me to make a single-part mold only, and provide the pouring and air escaping holes:

The mold is made from OOMOO 30 silicone, bought at www.silikonycz.cz.
I have used parafine release agent to avoid the original tyres sticking to the
mold, but I think it was not necessary after all.

The mold removed from the paper box:

Removing the original tyres from the mold. OOMOO is really stiff and soft,
my previous experience with Lukopren 1522 silicone is worse - Lukopren
would snap off when removing the models so deeply enclosed in the mold.

For the tyres I have used urethane rubber. I have tested two types with
a different hardness. The red one is softer - Vytaflex 30, and the blue one
is harder - Vytaflex 40. I have used So Strong pigments for making the rubber
red and blue. All those materials were also acquired from www.silikonycz.cz.

And here is the final product:

It is much softer than the original tyres, and a bit looser on the rims (I
have not used any glue so far, though). With the original tyres, the best lap
time with F1 cars was slightly under 7 seconds. After the short testing ride
with the Vytaflex tyres I clocked the best lap of 5.15 seconds, and average
laps around 5.50 seconds. Impressive.