Brian, correct me if I'm wrong but aren't those silver patches the result from the next day after the acid dripped and dried up?

To look at the images Pugs it looks like clean metal but since it contains the zinc, we can't tell whether it is silver zinc or metal. I believe we will have to wait for Brian's tests to know much more. I am also looking forward to Mike's assessment.

One more thing, Will epoxy adhere to a Zinc rich coating as well as bare metal. I thought adhesion always suffered on galvanized metal that had a zinc coating.

Metal prep is designed to promote adhesion, to dissolve rust and to retard its return. When you sandblast there still rust in the pores of the steel that the prep neutralizes . Oakite had a very informative seminar with magnified photos of blasted steel with the microscopic rust.Galvanized metal is another story.

Here's a little test I did tonight. I took some rusty clip nuts. I just kind of spritzed them with W&G remover real quick and wiped them off, then soaked them in a plastic container with about an inch of the Masterseries metal prep. I was going to let them go all night, but decided to check progress after exactly one hour. Took them out, wiped off with paper towel They were completely free of all rust, see pics below. Now I wait and see how long it takes for them to start rusting again.

So I took another set of rusty clips and tossed them in there, no cleaning or prep this time, didn't change out new acid either, just reused it. I checked in 15 minutes...they were 95% rust free and would have been good to go. However, I'm keeping them in there all night.

I used to sandblast this stuff. Way easier if I can just keep a tub of the metal prep around and toss rusty screws and nuts in and they'll be good to go in 15-30 minutes.

Maybe Ospho does the same thing, never tried it, didn't have it so I couldn't compare, however this at least demonstrates what this is capable of. It will make my life much easier. I was pretty impressed.

Maybe Ospho does the same thing, never tried it, didn't have it so I couldn't compare, however this at least demonstrates what this is capable of. It will make my life much easier. I was pretty impressed.

It depends on how bad the rust is when using Ospho, because its strength gets used up.

There is a learning curve with acid just like everything else, so get the facts before using it on something of value. Something you may have to watch out for with the masterseries is hydrogen embrittlement. So we need to know if that is going to happen with the masterseries, and if so, then it will not be kind to very thin parts, and springs, and clip nuts.

Another thing is that phosphoric acid will eat metal at a very low rate, so that limits the amount of time you can leave a part in it. Body sheet metal over night is not a problem, but with heavily pittied metal, it would be best to get some of the rust off before soaking in acid.

I have sold Rust removers and metal prep both Capt. Lees and Misastercoat for the previous 20 years. I have never had this problem of hydrogen embrittlement.Mastercoat Rust remover is designed to remove moderate surface rust within 5 min., so leaving parts in overnight is not a good idea. Not using metal prep can sometimes result in you repainting your parts a lot quicker than you anticipated. Rust here in the Northeast is brutal so we use everything we can to preserve our cars and metal prep is a must.

It depends on how bad the rust is when using Ospho, because its strength gets used up.

Phosphoric acid is also very good for cleaning welds before paint.

That reminds me of a problem I ran into...Yes it cleans up the welds nicely BUT be very careful when using it on welds if theres any small pin holes in the welds the ospho can get in there and cause a bubble in your paint.I'm not sure if it stays wet in the hole or what the cause could be but its something to watch out for, it happened to me years ago.So take your time welding and do a good job of dressing it...

The Following User Says Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:

So we need to know if that is going to happen with the masterseries, and if so, then it will not be kind to very thin parts, and springs, and clip nuts.

It was completely fine to the clip nuts, even the tiny little ones I left in overnight. I took them out this morning and they didn't look any different than the ones I took out last night. I think 15 min to an hour max will get you where you need to be with soaking.

I soaked a socket for 20 minutes tonight. I found the socket rolling around in the mustang gas tank after I must have dropped it in there 4 years ago. It was covered in rust. I was surprised to see the rust came off--as expected--but the chrome on the socket was left completely intact. I was thinking it might eat away the chrome. Socket looks brand new now except for the pits.

Well , I got my package from Uncle Pat yesterday and about 4:00 I started playing ..I only had an hour so I rushed through and only did a few spots on the inside of my old plymouth fender...There was still a good bit of primer or paint on the surface so I figured this will show whats rust and whats paint and although neither ospho or master series will work over paint I'll see how they both preform...
The first thing I noticed was the MS had a wicked odor ,it smells like it'll work great...
Now I only played with it for an hour them came back two hours later to check it out so this is only a first impression of what I found.
First I used the wire wheel on the griner to remove the loose rust then with my pump sprayer I wet down the rusted area with ospho an another area with the MS the rusted areas both started turning red with disolved rust imediately,I kept spraying keeping them both wet for a few minutes then used the wire wheel again to clean out the pits.sprayed both again and wiped dry....so far no differences they both seemed to work well,The MS preformed at least as well as the ospho...
I came back after about two hours and they both looked te same I wired them both and got some more rust out of both..I had soaked a shop towel with both and set it on a rusted area but it didnt do anything with either brand, no silver metal showing anywhere yet...(wheres the magic?) LOL Now I know what Brian felt...so far I cant tell any differences but its possible that the MS is slightly better but not by much...Keep in mind this is just a first impression I still have a lot to do before I know no way or another....but the ospho has some tough competition here....MS seems to be a exellent product so far....I have high expectations for today the second round is usually where you see somereally noticeable results

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.