Hello Styker fliers..
I am currently putting my airframe only B model together. It's got a Series 6 2000 kv motor and i'm covering it with iron on film.
The booklet that came with this "kit" doesn't include ANY info at all. Could someone be kind enough to list the specs for this plane? I need some starting points in terms of control throws, CG, etc. I was surprised the booklet had nothing except to tell me to insert the vertical stabs and how to throw it. I need more!
Thanks,
Ken

Hello Styker fliers..
I am currently putting my airframe only B model together. It's got a Series 6 2000 kv motor and i'm covering it with iron on film.
The booklet that came with this "kit" doesn't include ANY info at all. Could someone be kind enough to list the specs for this plane? I need some starting points in terms of control throws, CG, etc. I was surprised the booklet had nothing except to tell me to insert the vertical stabs and how to throw it. I need more!
Thanks,
Ken

On the bottom of the plane there are two finger grips, the dimples in there is your cg.

You want as much throw as possible without binding the servo. In other words, use fairly long servo arms and use the outer-most holes on the arms and control horns. The general rule of c/g is 1/3rd behind the leading edge of the wing; in other words, the Stryker should balance near the front of those indentations on the underside of the airframe (where you would grip the plane for hand launching).

A slightly nose-heavy balance is best if you intend on flying your Stryker in any sort of breeze or wind. I'm not sure of the weight of a Series 6 2000kV motor, but in my particular Stryker, a 4S battery placed in the front of the battery compartment allows for a perfect balance. I had to rout out the front compartment with a Dremel to allow my LiPo to fit. Additionally, I left the stock spars alone (I ordered a Stryker "B" airframe, which included everything but the electronics - I think this is the best way to go), but ran an additional c/f spar across the rear of the Stryker to prevent wing warp and motor mount breakage.

Ok, thanks for the info guys. That should get me started in the right direction. Yeah, I have the airframe only kit too, but it didn't come with any info at all. Wow, I really want as much throw as possible on the controls? I figured it would be touchy on the controls. I know on my Speedwing the controls were quite responsive and it didn't take much movement at all to get square corner turns. I will setup dual rates, but i want to make sure my "low rate" settings are still enough to provide adequate control.
How about REFLEX? Where do you guys start? How did you measure the amount of up elevon? I know there has to be some in order for a wing to fly, but I don't have a reference to how much up is required. Any info about this? My Speedwing took about 1/8" reflex to fly right, and it had tiperons that gave a reference to how much reflex was being used.
I got started on the build tonight. I removed everything from the wing, and tomorrow I get to fill in gaps, sand off the dimples, install my CF spars, etc. I already can't wait to get this thing ready for flying!!!!
Thanks for the help.
Ken

What sort of radio equipment do you have? If you have a digital Tx (i.e. Futaba), set your expo into the -40% range. "Soften" the stick as much as possible to make your throws smooth. A low expo rate (in the negative range on a Futaba) will not affect your total throw distance, but it will reduce the speed/rate at which the elevons travel up and down. Also, you can always adjust your servo travel if you want less throw, or set your dual rates to 100% throw and your regular rate to 75% or so. That way, you can begin flying at the "regular" rate and flip over to your dual once you feel comfortable.

I haven't measured the exact throw distance of my Stryker ailerons, but I would guess it is around 1". The more throw, the better. You can always make adjustments within your radio set up to reduce the amount of travel later on.

Thanks again for the help.
Yeah, I have a XEAS Futaba computer radio and am familiar with expo settings. I just wanted to know if the Stryker literature offered suggested settings to get me started. Like you said, I will be doing some experimenting to find the perfect setting for me. This wing is a bit larger/heavier than the ones I am used to flying, so I wasn't sure it if would be as responsive. The videos posted around here suggest it actually is pretty responsive...glad to see that. I'm still trying to come up with my color/trim selection for my wing. Working on CF stuff right now to strengthen things...coming along well.
Thanks again,
Ken

Can you get 80mph on a $15 motor? Yes!

But I switched from lipos to A123 cells, my stryker is now a bit heavier and since the A123 cells operate at a slightly lower voltage, I was getting a little less performance. In an attempt to get a little more umph, I tried this motor:https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=5246

Wow, what a difference! I video'd and dopplered it this afternoon, my best level pass was 80mph from this $15 motor. Very happy, I recommend this little motor to anyone as long as you can handle the amps (42 WOT static).

Images

Thanks for the tips earlier guys. I was able to give my motor to a machinist at work and he bent the shaft back. Looks perfect now and does not vibrate. I have had 4 more great flights with it.

On my second flight today, the motor cut out twice. It was quite windy so I was flying full throttle a lot (stock esc and motor). It was also about 93F so it was hot out. It happened and then recovered about 3 or 4 seconds later. I still am not sure if I had control of the tailerons when the motor cut out or not. I think I did, but it happened so fast I am not sure. I am flying a DX6 radio and have never had any glitch or cutout. This may have been my first one, but I am not sure.

I think the ESC had thermal shutdowns. But I am not sure if this E-Flite ESC has a thermal shutdown feature. Does anybody know? The motor was pretty cool as usual, the battery was fine, the esc felt fairly hot.

I hope that's not the Rx cutting out and resetting if it sees low voltage I'm just fitting an AR6100 Rx in my brand new Stryker! I was hoping to see the end of any type of glitching/cut-outs. It could be your lipo voltage is dropping too low under load.

I think the ESC had thermal shutdowns. But I am not sure if this E-Flite ESC has a thermal shutdown feature. Does anybody know? The motor was pretty cool as usual, the battery was fine, the esc felt fairly hot.

What do you guys think?

Thanks,
Waff

Waff -

As Esprit mentioned, the cut-outs could be caused by the Rx shutting things down due to a low voltage situation. If you are losing control of your entire aircraft (motor and ailerons), I would bet on the Rx/low voltage as being the culprit. What type of battery are you using? What is the mAh (capacity) and current discharge (C) rating? When selecting a battery, I generally make sure that the battery can handle the Amp requirements of the motor (WOT) at 15-20C (for a 20C/30C rated LiPo). So, if a motor can pull 30 Amps WOT static, a 2200mAh 20C/30C is an optimal battery for that set up, as it is capable of 33 Amps at 15C (Amp hours * C rating = Amp Output).

Many ESC's will trip the motor due to high temperatures or current overload (as a safety feature), then of course there is LVC, where the ESC with either cut the motor or throttle it down (depending on your configuration) once your battery is nearly drained. In those aforementioned scenarios, the servos generally remain operational, which allow you to make a "deadstick" landing. Double-check the venting to ensure you have sufficient airflow over your components during flight (especially the ESC, since your battery and motor are cool).

Thanks for the tips guys. I am sure my battery is fine. It is a Thunder Power extreme 2200 which I think has a 25C rating. I should have had 3 minutes left on it when the motor cut out. I don't think I lost aileron control, but I am not sure. If it happens again I will put it into a roll. If it rolls I know my radio is good and it is the esc. Also, I have run this battery down to the LVC limit and have not had any problems with the motor cutting out. I just get the pulsing sound on the motor if I go to LVC, but never lose it completely.

I suspect the esc is doing a thermal shutdown. So I agree that I need to check the venting. I just don't know that the E-Flite 25 amp esc has a thermal shutdown feature. Does anybody know?

Possible thermal shutdown. You said it was windy too- maybe over-amperage shut down? I am assuming the plane is stock exc. for DX6 and the TP extreme. The TP should handle all that just fine. I'm betting the ESC gave up. The DX6 system should not be your culprit either. I've been flying mine for a while now- in 2 airplanes, and I am finally confident in trusting the radio system. (I came from the stock PZ radio!!)