Has anybody found a product or products that will clean up your aluminum siding?

I am just looking to clean it up...not restore to like new.

I searched the archives on here or BNO and didn't really find anything that was conclusive.

Anyone come up with a home remedy that works?

I tried a bunch of stuff this weekend and nothing hurt or dented a test panel that I am going to replace anyway.

I know there is a solution (pun intended) among you guys.

Cliff

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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming: WOO HOO, what a ride

The guys at truck stops who make a living polishing fuel tanks and aluminum headache racks mostly use charcoal lighter fluid with a medium speed buffer, then put a coat of wax on.

And before anyone starts yelling about it being flammable, just remember, so are many of the paste waxs that are used, as is kiwi shoe polish and Johnsons paste wax.

To clean it first is very important, and I use a light acid like "Krud Kutter Rust Stain Remover," that uses a phosphoric acid, not the original formula. It's available at Wally, and most of the big box stores.The gel formula seems to work a little better than the liquid, but that could be because the gel stays on the vertical surfaces better.

Fuel tanks and headache racks are typically not anodized aluminum. This is a whole different creature than just aluminum. It can not be repolished, just cleaned. Enough polishing will remove tha anodize finish and then you really have a mess to try and keep it looking good. Richard

The guys at truck stops who make a living polishing fuel tanks and aluminum headache racks mostly use charcoal lighter fluid with a medium speed buffer, then put a coat of wax on.Dallas

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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming: WOO HOO, what a ride

A mild detergent and a little non-abrasive elbow grease is all that one should use to avoid taking off the anodization. Once you remove the anodizing (using anything abrasive, acidic, or caustic), you'll always have to maintain the sheen and protect it from oxidizing. I sure wouldn't want the maint. hassle on my aluminum coach.

I suspect that the areas you're seeing that need attention are oxidizing somewhat. Panels around the battery compt. tend to go first... or panels hit by someone eager to make their aluminum look like polished stainless (which it never will anyways).

I have tried so many suggestions over the last 2 years with various degrees of success. I'm beginning to wonder if there is a "one product" solution. I have a transit that had advertising signs on the side. The area directly below the frame work for the advertising sign is dis-colored. Yet only where the frame was Aluminum to aluminum is it discolerd. products I've tried are CLR & windex mix, Tsp, Mothers metal cleaner paste, plus all the usual name brand stuff. Recent suggestions I have not tried are (trade names) Metal wax, White Diamond, Wicked Products, Eagle one Mag cleaner, Calgon, Busch Sure Shine aluminum cleaner, I will try the charcoal liter fluid for sure Dallas. Any one got any other" home brew" Of the products I've tried the Mothers worked the best. on the normally exposed Aluminum. regards Paul

Cliff, since most of what you'd like to get rid of is oxidation, providing the panel isn't Anodized, Have you tried a mild solution of white vinegar and water? Oxyidation is alkelyne (sp?) and of course Vinegar is acid.

Besdies, Jackie sez that white vinegar and water won't hurt anything...and as you know...wives always have the right answers!

Bob

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I once used SOS pads to clean and shine aluminium. MUST use with the soap factor high. As soon as the pad starts getting smaller and the soap getting used out grab a new one. I never tried this on a large piece so ONLY try on your test piece.Works fantastic on old motorcycle spokes also.

Just yesterday, I discovered a GREAT product!!!It is made here in my own county and was recommended to me by my bus mechanic.It is called "BLING MASTER" and I tried it out on a piece of aluminum in my work van.It made the aluminum shine like a mirror. I can't wait to get to my bus to try it out.It doesn't take much effort either.Check out the website: www.BlingMaster.com

Just yesterday, I discovered a GREAT product!!!It is made here in my own county and was recommended to me by my bus mechanic.It is called "BLING MASTER" and I tried it out on a piece of aluminum in my work van.It made the aluminum shine like a mirror. I can't wait to get to my bus to try it out.It doesn't take much effort either.Check out the website: www.BlingMaster.com

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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming: WOO HOO, what a ride

Just yesterday, I discovered a GREAT product!!!It is made here in my own county and was recommended to me by my bus mechanic.It is called "BLING MASTER" and I tried it out on a piece of aluminum in my work van.It made the aluminum shine like a mirror. I can't wait to get to my bus to try it out.It doesn't take much effort either.Check out the website: www.BlingMaster.com

Richard, I wouldn't have answered the way I did if it was aluding to "anodized" aluminum.I didn't see any referral to anodizing refered to in Cliffs posts at all.

I took it that Cliff had panels that were still shiney,(anodized), and others that were grubby and dull.If I did take it right, then the best thing to do is get rid of the rest of the anodization and polish what is left.

Or, he could re-anodize the existing aluminum, which isn't really dificult, but does require experience and a certain touch.

Having had a shop that did ALOT of work on Eagles for years, this topic has been thrown around forever. Yes, you can wipe whatever you want on it (diesel, oil, wd40, brake fluid, shelia shine, on & on) & it will restore the gloss of the finish until whatever you applied evaporates. Sometimes one day, sometimes two weeks. The point is, the skin has a clear anodize finish, basically like a plastic coating, much like plexiglass. Like plexiglass, this coating becomes dull over time with exposure to the elements. The only thing that I ever found that would work, which basically took forever, (and I mean forever!) was a product used to polish plexiglass, or plastic. We used to use this stuff called nic sand. It was a fine grained liquid that came with a special buffer pad that the plexiglass guys used. If you want to do your entire bus six inches at a time then this stuff is for you. I think that reskinng it & doing it this way would be about equal in time & close to it in labor! Also, you would have to be VERY careful to not remove the finish with this stuff in the first place!Most people do not understand that the skin on some buses is clear anodized. The front of the bus was always the first to go due to the caustic spray applied to remove the bugs & road grime when the bus came into the station. Over time this would turn the clear finish white. There has been many people who have made the biggest mistake of their life when they applied or had applied acid to the skin, which instantly turns the anodize white, totally ruining the finish of the skin. At that point the only thing to do would be to totally strip the skin of the anodize & then try to polish like bare aluminium, just like aluminium wheels, fuel tanks & mirriors. We reskinned many, many buses that had come from the acid bath at the truckwash. What a shame.As a note, I have seen a few Setra's (Golden Eagles) with the gold anodize removed & polished to a mirrior finish, but that was back in the day!