Gentlemen prefer plaids

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Q: I'm excited about the popularity of plaid in shirts and ties this season. But I have a neurotic fear that I will insult the Scottish. What are good rules of thumb for using plaids, or is it "tartans"?

According to David Thomson of the Saint Andrew's & Caledonian Society of Victoria, plaid is the Gaelic word for blanket. Tartans, to Scots, are checked patterned textiles found on ties, shirts and kilts. These patterns are associated with clans. In North America, we say plaid for tartanlike patterns not associated with any tribe or group.

To address your neurotic fear, I sympathize. I often wonder if wearing a tartan is like donning the colours of Crips or Bloods in L.A.: you should avoid it unless you want a cap in your ass . But I spoke with full-brogued Scotsman Darren Hutchinson of the Vancouver-based tailoring company Indochino. He reassures me, "You haven't a good night out if you haven't worn a kilt."

And he believes, most Scots, being an egalitarian bunch, are "totally okay" with sharing tartans with the world.

Good thing, because plaids add colour and rectilinear geometric spice into a wardrobe and, according to Banana Republic's director of public relations, Tara Wickwire, they "are having a real fashion moment."

This season you will also find lots of check patterns out there along with plaids, including buffalo (big squares) and gingham (tiny squares), and you may be tempted to mix them together. Wickwire says, "The key is to stick with a similar colour palette or use a similar root shade and find a way to balance the patterns. For example, if you are wearing a bold plaid shirt, opt for a more subtly printed tie. If your tie is a strong plaid, opt for a reserved check in your shirt."

P.S. I have no idea what one wears under a kilt and I don't wish to find out.

Q: What are quick and simple ways of dressing for evening parties this season and where does velvet comes in? How does a man do velvet (or is it velour) well?

Velour however sounds like something with which you upholster a 1970s sedan. Velvet even sounds velvety and so you should forgo the velour and look for a velvet jacket.

What I like about velvet jackets are their versatility and availability. They're everywhere. You can find them at Banana Republic or at Harry Rosen at different price points. The velvet jacket can take you to holiday cocktail parties with neat, dark jeans but can also dress up for a creative black tie event.

The secret to wearing them well is as Wes Purdie, regional director for Harry Rosen in Vancouver, says: "Keep it basic ... It doesn't matter if you are wearing a grey velvet, or a black velvet or a red velvet, always go darker for the pants and they should be trim and narrow."

With shirts, he recommends shirts with lustre. He also says, "French cuffs are a must. Jewelry compliments the coat and makes the overall look elegant."

He adds, it's good to go with patent or velvet shoes. But make sure they are sleek. "A little less ridging at the sole [low-welting]," is always preferable. Loafers or halfboots are something to consider.

But remember, approaching women with a shaggalistic shimmy and a "Yeah, baby," will undo the benefits of our advice.

Q. Elbow patches are kind of hot in a "professor that might secretly be Indiana Jones" sort of way - but they also look kind of contrived - especially on a brand new jacket. Does the elbow patch have a place on a new jacket or does it belong only in a vintage piece?

A: Style Master says - If I had a whip (maybe I do, maybe I don't), I would crack it now. Elbow patches are best when patching a hole in a well loved garment. If the hole appears on the left, only patch the left. Symmetry is for suckers and the quirk of one-sided patching gives a whiff of old establishment thriftiness.

Admittedly, this year, elbow patches are everywhere. So, I concede to the inevitable the way Indiana conceded to the feisty Marion Ravenwood. If you must buy a garment with elbow patches, make sure they cover the elbows and not the upper arm or forearm. If they don't, someone should conk your crystal skull.

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