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Clay soil is naturally made of tightly structured, small particles that make water drainage and air flow through the soil difficult. It takes up to four times more water to saturate clay soil than other soil types. Once saturated, the clay soil holds water, causing most plant roots to become soggy and prone to disease and rot. However, there are many perennial plants available such as; black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), daylily (Hemerocallis) and fountain grass (Pennisetum) that are hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10 and will tolerate growing in clay soil conditions.

1

Moisten the clay soil to a depth of 6 inches, in several intervals to avoid runoff, with a watering hose 48 hours prior to digging. This will soften the compacted soil and improve water penetration depth, making it easier to dig in the soil.

2

Pass an aerator that pulls 3- to 4-inch soil plugs over the moist soil several times and in different directions, twice a year. This leaves behind small holes in the ground that will allow air and nutrients to mix with the clay soil.

3

Apply 1 pound per 5 square feet of gypsum on top of the soil in rows with a broadcast spreader, twice a year. Both the University of California and the University of Illinois Extension note that gypsum is rarely beneficial to the soil; however, it can help by getting in between the clay particles and loosening the soil for easier digging and better air flow. Gypsum can dissolve when mixed with water, so the benefits may be temporary if rainfall and irrigation are prevalent. Measure the length and width of the lawn, in feet, and multiply them together to get the square footage of the area.

4

Work a spading fork into the soil to a depth of 2 feet, turning and breaking up any large clumps of clay with the fork. Allow the turned soil to dry about 24 hours and repeat the process until all the clumps have crumbled and the soil can be easily dug with a shovel.

Things You Will Need

Watering hose

Aerator

Gypsum

Broadcast spreader

Spading fork

Tips

Aerators are available at most garden centers.

Follow all manufacturer's instructions when using equipment and for anything you spread on or add to the soil.

About the Author

Dannielle Doyle is an award-winning horticulturalist and garden writer whose work has appeared in publications such as the "Bryan Times" newspaper, the "San Francisco Chronicle" and "Green Profits" magazine. Doyle is a certified Ohio State University master gardener and holds a degree in landscape technologies.