SPECIFICATIONS:The handle is made of 1" PVC with a cap on each end. The total length from the tip of one cap to the other is 9.5". Just inside the cap on each end there is a hole drilled into the body of the handle where the rope enters one end and then returns out of the other hole. I am not sure if the line is cut off and knotted inside the handle or it is looped through one hole and out the other. I suspect it is knotted because I cannot slide the rope through the holes. Short distances from where the lines leave the handle the two lines come together and are nicely braided all the way to the other end where the lines are separated again and they form a small loop. The distance from the tip of the small loop down to the center of the handle, where you step on it, is 47". This guy sells them in two lengths and I believe I have the longer length, but I am not sure. He did a nice job making these and I am not affiliated with him in any way. I just found this on eBay one day. He even has a Youtube video of how it works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRd1ha2r ... e=youtu.beI pass the smaller loop around the leg of the advantage seat and then pass the handle through the small loop to secure it to the seat/boat. I coil the extra rope around the handle and place it under the seat so it is out of the way.

I hope this helps.

_________________PA12 DuneThat is why they calling it fishing and not catching.

I did review his video and looked on ebay at it. I ended up making one. I used a 3/4" x 12 " pipe and 45 end sweeps. I ran a 3/8" rope through so it is continious and did about the same with the rope as you discribed. Took me about 10 minutes. I have a lot of this stuff laying around.

Thanks again

_________________"The craft is a foot bigger at port and shrinks a foot at sea."

I have spent a couple days during the warm summer months in and out of my PA practicing. It is possible from the side but easier from the rear.

Believe me, my biggest concern has been getting my PA turned back over if it flips in water deeper than waist deep! The PA acts almost like a suction-cup once turned over. I weigh around 150 lbs and could barely get mine turned back over without the help of a rope. A rope makes turning it back over VERY easy!

If I were you and was going into any area with potential for rough water I would test things out a head of time!

I have had three Pa's over the past four years and since I spend 99% of my time fishing offshore in the Texas Gulf Coast, I have extensive experience with the PA with big swells and surf waves. With one exception, I have never had any problems with the PA out past the surf in any kind of weather.

In the surf, that is a different story. The PA is highly unstable in short, choppy surf waves. I got so tired of clean reels due to flipping in the surf, I now always come in backwards, unless the surf is flat. You should always take your mirage drive out and raise your rudder when re-entering the surf zone. Both with be grabbed by currents and cause problems.

I have spent a couple days during the warm summer months in and out of my PA practicing. It is possible from the side but easier from the rear.

Believe me, my biggest concern has been getting my PA turned back over if it flips in water deeper than waist deep! The PA acts almost like a suction-cup once turned over. I weigh around 150 lbs and could barely get mine turned back over without the help of a rope. A rope makes turning it back over VERY easy!

If I were you and was going into any area with potential for rough water I would test things out a head of time!

With a strap attached to the rails, you and bring it across the bottom of the flipped yak and place your feet on the side/bottom and just walk it right over.