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How many times do you see an app on the App Store and think, “I should buy that, but maybe later”? You can even put off downloading free apps—something might pique your interest, but you might not feel like immediately downloading it to your iPhone or iPad for any number of reasons.

I know that I’m usually pretty resistant to cluttering up my device with apps whenever possible, and if I’m looking for something new—like a great running app, for example—I’ll make a note of interesting apps I come across while researching other contenders.

The problem? Apple no longer offers a way to flag apps to review later. The App Store’s wish list died in iOS 11, and there’s no obvious way to bookmark or “heart” apps you’re interested in, but aren’t yet ready to purchase.

There is, however, a clever workaround that makes it easy to create a working list of great apps you’re considering.

Use Notes and Reminders as your new App Store wish list

As recently noted by Reddit user theseaprince, all you have to do is tap on the three-dot icon when viewing an app’s product page, tap on “Share App,” and select “Add to Notes”—an option you might have to first add to the share sheet by flicking your finger to the right and tapping on the “More” icon.

Screenshot: David Murphy

When you tap Add to Notes, a nice little graphical representation of the app will appear. You can add extra text to give a little more information about the app, append it to an existing note (like your “Apps I Should Download” list), or create a new note. Then, when you pull up Apple’s Notes app, you can tap on the colorful block (or app icon) to immediately load the app in the App Store.

Screenshot: David Murphy

My only annoyance with this little trick is that the app link—that big block of color—has a lot of wasted space. All that populates in your note is the app’s name, developer, and icon, no description, average rating, price, or any other useful bit of information that you might want to capture. These are all great things to add as text above or below the linked app, but there’s no reason why Apple shouldn’t import this information directly.

You can also use the same trick to send an app directly to Reminders—or, say, a new list you’ve created called “No Really Download These Apps.” That might be a more elegant solution if you’re looking to create a virtual shopping list of apps that you can check off as you purchase them, though it’ll be a little uglier. On your list, you’ll only see the app’s name and developer—no image or app icon, just an icon of the App Store itself.

It’s been a long time since Apple could claim its computers were really virus-free. Even mighty Mac owners have to keep an eye out for the latest vulnerabilities and malware, just like everyone else, and there’s some new malicious Mac software making the rounds that you should know about.

Spotted by Reddit user BackwardsBinary, “mshelper” is malware that’s designed to hog your Mac’s resources, causing your battery life to plummet (and your laptop to likely get a little warmer and louder). It’s unclear where this malicious code came from or what it’s doing, but one popular theory is that it’s cryptojacking software designed to mine cryptocurrency on your computer without your knowledge. Yuck.

The first thing you’ll want to do is confirm whether mshelper is installed on your Mac. To find out, open Activity Monitor and click on the CPU tab. You should see a list of all the apps and software running on your computer. Make sure they’re organized by the amount of resources they’re using (% CPU). If it’s present, mshelper should show up at the top of the list. If it doesn’t show up, you can also reorder the list by name alphabetically to double-check that it’s really not there.

If you do find the malware on your Mac, you’ll have to go in and delete a few files on your system to remove it. Open Macintosh HD (if you can’t find it, just do a Spotlight search). Then, head to Library, click on LaunchDaemons, find the file labeled “com.pplauncher.plist,” and delete it. Next, head back to Library, click on Application Support, and delete the file labeled “pplauncher.” Finally, restart your Mac.

With that out of the way, you should be safe from the latest Mac malware. Just be careful not to download any suspicious files in the future so you can avoid whatever terrible software comes next.

Thanks to the rise of music streaming services, it’s never been easier to find new music—so why do I keep listening to the same three albums on repeat?

Part of the problem is that Apple Music’s recommendation algorithm (AKA the For You tab) isn’t very good. Spotify’s Discover Weekly playlists are a lot better, but they’re not perfect, either; the same goes for other services like Pandora and Google Play Music.

If you’re struggling to find new music and you’re app of choice isn’t helping, don’t give up. There are a bunch of simple ways to improve those recommendations. Here’s how to do it.

Apple Music

You might think that simply tapping Love or Dislike on songs in Apple Music would be enough to guide the app’s recommendation algorithm, but it doesn’t do much. That’s because Apple keeps a record of all the music it thinks you like, even the stuff you haven’t listened to in years.

Mac Observer’s Andrew Orr recently figured out the trick to fixing Apple Music’s For You section. When you first sign up, Apple Music asks for a list of artists and genres you’re into. After that, every time you add a new artist to your library they’re also added to that list. So all the old music you used to like is still guiding Apple’s recommendations.

The solution is simple. Just open the app and tap on the head-shaped icon (it might also be a picture of you) in the top right corner. Then hit “Find More Artists and Curators.” From here you can remove any artists you no longer like, which should improve your recommendations moving forward.

If you share access to your Apple Music account, like if you have a HomePod that multiple people use, you may also want to switch off “Listening History.” That way Apple won’t factor your roommate’s crappy music taste into your recommendations. To disable the feature open the Settings app in iOS. Then head to Music, select “Listening History,” and toggle it off.

Spotify

Spotify’s Discover Weekly is usually pretty on the money, but if you’re getting bad playlists there are a few different things you can do.

The streaming service tracks every song you skip and registers that you don’t like it. So make sure to quickly skip any annoying songs that come up, and try not to skip a track you do like just because you’re not in the mood to hear it.

You can also try adding the music you want to hear more of to a playlist, which should give Spotify’s algorithm a little more guidance. As an added bonus, if you make a playlist around a specific genre or style, the streaming service will add some extra recommendations at the bottom of the playlist that match your theme.

Finally, if you’re trying to show Spotify that you like a new genre, don’t give up after a few hours. It takes a day or two for the app to register your new interests. Anything less than that and Spotify just assumes you let someone else borrow your account.

Google Play Music

Google’s huge investment in machine learning should mean great recommendations in Google Play Music, but that’s not always the case. If you’re coming up short, head into the app’s Settings menu, tap on General, and then Improve Your Recommendations. From here, Google will ask a few questions to get a better sense of your musical interests.

If that doesn’t work, Google Play Music also offers the nuclear option. Head back to the main Settings page and select “Delete recommendation history.” This will clear all your data, giving you a fresh start to show Google what kind of music you actually want to hear.

Pandora

Pandora was one of the first companies to offer algorithm-based music suggestions, and the internet radio service is still going strong. However, if you’ve ever used Pandora you know how easy it is to ruin a good radio station by hitting thumbs up or thumbs down on the wrong songs.

It turns out the trick is to avoid hitting the thumbs up button at all. That’s because a positive response will tell Pandora to play more of the same, quickly reducing the variety of music you hear on that station. Instead, stick to shooting down the songs you don’t like, which will push the service to introduce you to new genres and artists instead.

I love my Bluetooth earbuds, and considering the runaway success of Apple’s AirPods, I’m not alone. But every once in a while I run into a situation where I wish I still had some headphones with a good ol’ 3.5mm cable.

Airplanes are a great example, mostly because there’s no easy way to connect your AirPods to the in-flight entertainment system. The same goes for the gym, if you like watching live TV while you’re on the treadmill.

There’s a simple hack for all of this: just buy a cheap set of earbuds specifically for flying and working out. But if you’re looking for a more elegant, high-tech solution, you have a few options.

Twelve South, a company known for its well-made Apple accessories, just came out the AirFly, a Bluetooth adapter that has a tiny 3.5mm cable on one end and an eight-hour battery (long enough for most cross-country flights). The device also has a slim white design that matches the AirPods’ case, and it’s little enough to slip right into your carry-on luggage.

Graphic: Twelve South

Engadget didn’t note any audio issues with AirFly in its short review of the product. Their only real issue is that connecting your headphones to the adapter during the flight means having to reconnect them to your smartphone when you land. That could be annoying if you’re using them at the gym everyday, but it’s still a small price to pay for the convenience of connecting your Bluetooth earbuds to a non-Bluetooth device.

At $40, AirFly isn’t cheap, especially given that most Bluetooth adapters (according to a quick Amazon scan) hover somewhere between $10 to $30. Most of these alternatives are also pretty well-rated—assuming those reviews are even worth trusting.

Still, you might not want to go cheap with a Bluetooth adapter for your AirPods. If you pick up a lame device that has so-so audio quality, you’re going to have a pretty unpleasant experience the next time you’re stuck on a six-hour plane flight and can’t rock out (or podcast out) to pass the time.

If you bought a new MacBook or MacBook Pro in the past few years, you may have a case against Apple. A new class-action lawsuit claims the company knowingly sold laptops with defective keyboards. Here’s what you need to know about the new lawsuit and how to get involved.

What’s the problem?

Apple first introduced its new butterfly-switch keyboards in 2015 with the 12-inch MacBook (the one without any regular USB ports). The thinner key design made it possible to slim down the laptop’s profile without cutting down on responsiveness—at least, according to Apple. A year later, the same keyboard showed up on new 13- and 15-inch MacBook Pros.

It didn’t take long for things to go south with Apple’s keyboard “upgrade.” As it turns out, Apple’s butterfly-switch keys can become unresponsive if any sort of dust or debris gets under the keyboard. Worse, fixing this through Apple can cost as much as $700 if you’re out of warranty, and repairs take a week.

Apple hasn’t officially responded to keyboard complaints—or a growing petition demanding Apple recall MacBooks using said keyboards—though it did set up a webpage showing people how to clean out the keyboard with a can of compressed air. That’s something, right?

Who qualifies for the class action lawsuit?

If you bought a MacBook with butterfly-switch keys, you probably qualify to join the lawsuit. That includes any 12-inch MacBook model from 2015 or later. It also covers the MacBook Pro from 2016 onwards (with or without the Touch Bar). And you don’t have to have a messed-up MacBook to participate. Girard Gibbs LLP (the firm behind the new suit) doesn’t specify that you need to have experienced any keyboard issues in order to join the class-action lawsuit.

How to join

Girard Gibbs has an online form you can use to give them your contact info and the details of your experience with Apple’s new MacBooks. If you prefer to talk on the phone, you can also call (866) 981-4800 for a free consultation.

Of course, you don’t actually have to do anything to be a part of the case. As long as you bought a laptop that qualifies, you’ll be included in the class action lawsuit once everything shakes out. Start thinking about what you might do with the sweet $20 you’ll make if the lawsuit prevails—as tends to be the case with litigation like this.

iOS: Clicking a link in Apple’s Safari app achieves one of two things: the new page temporarily takes over your iPhone while it loads, or you waste precious seconds long-pressing the link so you can load it in a background tab instead. As it turns out, there’s a third option that’s been hiding in iOS for almost a year, and it’s even better.

To open that Safari link in a new tab, just tap on it with two fingers at once (as noted by a recent post on r/Apple). By default, Safari will bring you to that new tab, but if you’d rather load it in the background that’s an option, too. Just head into Settings, then Safari, then Open Links, and choose to open new links in the background.

Now, the next time you’re reading an article on your phone and you come across an interesting link, just tap it with two fingers and continue reading. When you’re ready, that new page will be waiting for you in another tab on your device.

After booting 32-bit apps from the iPhone and iPad in iOS 11, Apple is getting ready give the same treatment to your Mac. If you’re worried that you might lose access to some of your favorite apps, here’s how to check whether all the software running on your computer is 64-bit or not.

The latest version of macOS, High Sierra 10.13.4, will let you know which apps are still running at 32-bits automatically. The next time you launch one, you’ll get a warning that it’s “not optimized” for macOS. The app will still work after that, but future Mac updates could create problems.

If you’d rather not open each app individually, there’s an easier and faster way to check them all at once (via iMore). All you have to do is open Spotlight (type Command + Space or just click on the magnifying glass in the top right corner of the screen) and search for “System Information.” Then, open the program and scroll to “Applications” under the Software section on the window’s left side. It will take a few seconds for all your apps’ info to load, but you can then check the far-right column to see which apps are 32-bit and which apps are 64-bit.

Screenshot: Jacob Kleinman

If you notice that an app you use all the time is only 32-bit, there are a few things you can do. First, check to see if you’re missing a recent update that fixes the problem. If that doesn’t work, you can try contacting the developer directly and asking them to upgrade the app to 64-bit before it’s too late. Finally, you may want to look around for an alternative so you’re prepared when Apple officially pulls support for 32-bit Mac apps.

iOS: Every time you plug your iPhone into a computer, you see the same pop-up on your phone asking if you should “Trust” it. This may seem like a harmless question, but by granting trust to computers, you’re essentially giving them access to everything on your iPhone, including photos, videos, contacts, and “other content.”

That’s fine for your own personal computer, but what if you plugged into a friend’s laptop so they could download a file? Or charged your iPhone off a public computer at the library and absentmindedly clicked “Trust” on the pop-up? In that case, you’ll want to “un-trust” those computers so your private data stays secure. Unfortunately, Apple doesn’t exactly make it easy to do this, but there are a few different ways you can pull it off (via GadgetHacks) without too much extra work.

The easiest option is to reset your Network Settings. The only catch is that it removes all the Wi-Fi passwords saved to your phone too. That might be a little annoying, but it will also clear out any old Wi-Fi networks that you no longer use. To do it, open the Settings app, go to General, and select Reset. Then tap on “Reset Network Settings” and enter your password to confirm.

If you’d rather not lose your wi-fi passwords, you can also un-trust computers by resetting Location & Privacy settings on your phone instead. Head to the same page (Settings>General>Reset), select “Reset Location & Privacy,” and confirm with your passcode. This will also revoke all permissions granted to other apps (things like access to your iPhone’s camera, microphone, location, and saved photos). So if you do it, a lot of other apps won’t work until you give back the permissions they need.

Your third and final option is a total factory reset, which will remove everything on your iPhone. We don’t really recommend this unless you’re planning on giving away the device, but if you want to do it just head to the same Reset page and select “Erase All Content and Settings.”

Whichever option you choose, you’ll be losing a little functionality (at least temporarily) in exchange for some extra iPhone security. Just think of it like spring cleaning for your smartphone, and un-trust your device at least once a year to stay safe.

Apple just made it even easier to trade-in your old Apple Watch for store credit. The company, which previously ran an online trade-in program, is now taking your old smartwatches in person, too. Even better, Apple appears to be paying more for in-person trade-ins than online trade-ins.

Reddit user ajsayshello broke the news this week (later confirmed by 9to5Mac), revealing that Apple offered him $100 for a first-generation stainless steel 42mm Apple Watch. By comparison, Apple’s trade-in website lists the original smartwatch model’s value at $75 or less. That’s $25 extra just for leaving your house, though there’s no guarantee you’ll get the same deal as ajsayshello.

That’s also a better deal than what you’d get if you traded in a first-generation Apple Watch to Amazon, which is currently giving around $60 in store credit. However, if you’re looking to make as much money as possible off your old tech and you don’t mind doing a little extra work, there are a few other options.

Over on eBay, the same Apple Watch model typically sells for about $150, and on Swappa (a popular site for reselling tech) it might go for as high as $255. However, using either of those websites means dealing with shipping, packaging, and giving PayPal a cut of your sale. If that sounds like too much of a headache, consider the Apple store an easier—albeit less lucrative—solution.

Apple has a definite tendency to get its devices working well with each other before considering such distractions as Android or Windows, and over the years the iPhone and the Mac have built up a strong understanding. You might not appreciate just how many different ways they can seamlessly work together—here’s what you need to know.

Not all of these features have always worked all that well, but as time has gone on, Apple has managed to get them up to a respectable level of intuitiveness and stability. What you need to begin are an iPhone running iOS 11 and a 2012 or later Mac running macOS High Sierra, both signed into the same iCloud account with the same credentials.

Universal Clipboard

Screenshot: Gizmodo

The Universal Clipboard is exactly what it sounds like: Copy and paste that works across your iPhone and your Mac. You just use the copy command as you normally would, then pick up again on your other device with the paste command, though Apple warns users that “copied content is available to paste on your other devices only for a short time.”

So, say you’ve got an address up on your MacBook, in an email. Highlight the text, choose Edit and Copy (or hit Cmd+C), and then switch over to your iPhone, in an app like Notes. Tap and hold on the screen to bring up the pop-up menu, choose Paste, and your text should appear.

It works in the other direction too, of course, and with images as well—so you could, for example, paste something that you’ve got in Photos on your iPhone right into a document in Pages, no middle steps required.

iMovie projects

Screenshot: Gizmodo

If you’ve started working on a movie masterpiece on your iPhone or your iPad, you can move it over to your Mac to finish it off, as long as you’re using iMovie on both devices—it’s a handy feature, considering you probably shot the footage on your phone or tablet in the first place.

In iMovie for iOS, tap the Projects tab, and choose the project you want to use. Hit the Share button, and you’ve got two options: You can select iCloud Drive (which passes the project via iCloud Drive and keeps a copy there) or wait for your Mac to show up in the AirDrop panel.

In both cases you have the chance to share either the iMovie project as a whole (timelines and elements and all), or the finished movie generated from your assembled clips, which will be exported if you choose this option.

Tether your iPhone

Screenshot: Gizmodo

This one’s dependent on the data plan you have with your mobile operator, but if your Mac detects an iPhone with a data signal nearby, it’ll list it in the available wi-fi networks, should you want to connect to it. For those times when you don’t have regular wi-fi available, or it’s too flaky, or you don’t think it’s secure enough, this is simple to use.

From Settings in iOS, choose Personal Hotspot to see your options and the instructions. The wi-fi password for the hotspot is included here too, if you’ve got other devices to connect. Toggle the Personal Hotspot option on to make the connection available.

Click the wi-fi symbol on the menu bar on your Mac, choose the iPhone entry, and the rest happens automatically. If your iPhone was on wi-fi, it gets disabled, so your phone falls back to a cellular connection. Choose Disconnect from iPhone from the wi-fi drop-down to end the tethering. You can also connect via Bluetooth or via a cabled connection.

Make and receive calls from your Mac

Screenshot: Gizmodo

Picking up your phone to answer a call is old fashioned nowadays—you can use your Mac instead, as long as both devices are on the same wi-fi network. From Settings on iOS, tap Phone, then Wi-Fi Calling, then turn the Wi-Fi Calling on This Phone toggle switch to on.

Head to your Mac, open FaceTime, and you might get automatically prompted to allow calls from your iPhone. If not, open the FaceTime menu and choose Preferences. Check the box marked Calls From iPhone.

Making calls from FaceTime on macOS is easy—just enter a name, email address, or phone number into the search box at the top to find the person you want to call. Receiving calls isn’t much more difficult: Whenever someone calls your iPhone, you’ll see Accept and Decline buttons in the corner of your Mac display, so make your choice accordingly.

Send and receive text messages

Screenshot: Gizmodo

You can also get busy text messaging on your Mac: That is, sending and receiving standards SMSes, as well as iMessages that sync automatically between Mac and iPhone nowadays. In Settings, tap Messages then Text Message Forwarding and activate your Mac (if the option doesn’t appear, check that you’re signed into iCloud on both devices, with the right phone number registered).

With that done, open up Messages on macOS, and you can compose new texts to any contact and continue threads. Your entire SMS history won’t get synced over, but any texts sent and received after you’ve enabled the feature appear automatically.

Handoff between apps

Screenshot: Gizmodo

The Handoff feature works in the majority of Apple’s apps and a few third-party ones as well (including Google Chrome). Again, everything should work automatically with the newest software, provided you’re signed into iCloud everywhere, but double-check Handoff is enabled—it’s under General and Handoff in the iOS Settings app, and under General in System Preferences on the Apple menu on macOS.

With that done, you’re ready to start doing some handing off. Open a site in Safari on your iPhone, or a location in Apple Maps, or start an email in Mail—switch to your Mac, bring up the dock, and you should see an app icon with a small phone symbol next to it, to the far left of the row. Click this to carry on with whatever you were doing on macOS.

If you’re going the other way, just go about your business on your Mac device, then bring up the app switcher on your iPhone with a double-tap on the Home button (or by tapping and holding on the bottom of the screen, moving your finger up, and holding again on the iPhone X). The Handoff app should appear at the bottom.

Share files easily

Screenshot: Gizmodo

Finally, there is AirDrop, the super-simple way of moving files between devices made by Apple. You need to get it set up first: In macOS, open AirDrop in the Finder to set your visibility, and on iOS open up the Control Center and make sure AirDrop is enabled.

With that done, you just need to click or tap the Share button in any app on your macOS machine or your iOS device—your other device should appear, and once you select it, the file gets moved straight over.

You can share maps, websites, text, images, and more, so you might prefer using AirDrop to Handoff in certain situations.

As for the rest…

Screenshot: Gizmodo

The above are the main Mac-iOS features that Apple puts under the broad heading of “Continuity,” but there is other more basic stuff we haven’t discussed, like the way you can get your iMessages and photos synced across seamlessly, or access your iCloud Drive files from any device.

Recording screen activity from an iOS device on macOS is very simple as well—you just need to connect the devices via USB, open up QuickTime and start recording. Look for another round of integrations to crop up when we get iOS 12 later in the year.