Somebody put a prelude engine and an integra tranny into a CIVIC??!! What is wrong with people these days?

LOL

So Mike...did you do the collector modification yourself? I use to have a DC Ceramic 4-2-1 header on my old D16Y8, (it's actually still runnin' strong in Ric Johnson son's hatch) but anyway. Would my B20B benefit more from a 4-2-1 or 4-1 header? I had 4-1 ebay on my B20Z2 in the red dragon.

Gabe - From what I have read 4-2-1 sacrifices some top end to give you the mid-range torque. The 4-1 is better for top end. The 2.5" collector mod and its variants I think help high compression engines breathe better up top. For auto-x and what you are doing, I would stick to 4-2-1, but thats just me.

Gabe, I did all of the modification short of the welding myself. I had Chris (MR2) do the welding for me. Amazing work with the TIG. I cut back to the largest point I could get a section of 2.5" round tubing around it, then took a piece of SS 2.5", heated it as hot as I could and used a 2x4 and 3lb sledge to force it to oval around the shortened collector. After I did that, I again removed some more of the old DC collector and then took it to Chris for the welding. Since this was going on an H2B setup, I needed to remove some radius from the bend in the B-Pipe. The H22 tilts forward when attached to the B-Series trans as compared to when it is mated to an H-Series trans it tilts back. So Chris welded the radiused B-Pipe back together and also welded on my 2.5" collector. From there I was hooking up to a 2.5" Greddy SP system for my coupe. I needed to extend it and put in a flex section since I removed that from the DC. This is where I deceided to go a little more high tech. I had Chris put a V-Band on the end of the header, then terminate both ends of my extension (w/ flex pipe) with V-Bands, as well as terminate the start of the rest of the exhaust with a V-Band. Very solid connection as far as sealing, never have to worry about gaskets and bolts wearing out or getting loose. I would highly recommend it if you have the time and patience.

As far as your setup is concerned, go with the 4-2-1. It will be the better header for your powerband and desired use of the car. When it comes to B-Series headers, go back 10 years in a mag like SCC and look at some dyno shootouts. Should give you a good one to buy.

Gabe, I did all of the modification short of the welding myself. I had Chris (MR2) do the welding for me. Amazing work with the TIG. I cut back to the largest point I could get a section of 2.5" round tubing around it, then took a piece of SS 2.5", heated it as hot as I could and used a 2x4 and 3lb sledge to force it to oval around the shortened collector. After I did that, I again removed some more of the old DC collector and then took it to Chris for the welding. Since this was going on an H2B setup, I needed to remove some radius from the bend in the B-Pipe. The H22 tilts forward when attached to the B-Series trans as compared to when it is mated to an H-Series trans it tilts back. So Chris welded the radiused B-Pipe back together and also welded on my 2.5" collector. From there I was hooking up to a 2.5" Greddy SP system for my coupe. I needed to extend it and put in a flex section since I removed that from the DC. This is where I deceided to go a little more high tech. I had Chris put a V-Band on the end of the header, then terminate both ends of my extension (w/ flex pipe) with V-Bands, as well as terminate the start of the rest of the exhaust with a V-Band. Very solid connection as far as sealing, never have to worry about gaskets and bolts wearing out or getting loose. I would highly recommend it if you have the time and patience.

As far as your setup is concerned, go with the 4-2-1. It will be the better header for your powerband and desired use of the car. When it comes to B-Series headers, go back 10 years in a mag like SCC and look at some dyno shootouts. Should give you a good one to buy.

Mike

Mikey - You sure the Greddy SP is 2.5" ID (or OD for that matter)? I thought only Greddy Evo was 2.5". I thought Greddy SP was like Apexi WS2 and is 2.36".

It has a 2.5" v-band clamp on it. I know that much. I was amazed that it was that size when I picked it up used originally. It is an original SP, not that SP2 crap either. Loved that exhaust on my prelude, who would have thought I would find one for the civic.

Found another thing that I need to buy...looks like it's gonna be a while before she is up and runnin. Plus RC called and they have some crazy back order going on with there injectors, so it looks like im gonna be buying cams sooner than I thought. Still not sure which ones I want tho...

Oil control rings that I got from Race Engineering were not proper size for the JE Pistons that are in it. I had oil burning issues, and that is what it boiled down to. I will be ordering new rings here in the upcoming weeks. After I get those in, it should be going back together.

I just picked up my new daily driver from PA this past weekend. Drove it all the way home (966 miles) on a bad headgasket. I didn't have any overheating issues, and it only used a little bit of oil. Definitely a bad HG though, as I did a compression test this morning, and it read 150/60/30/60 I had a little bit of oil mixing with the coolant that bubbled to the top of the radiator, but other than starting hard, it has not had any issues. I will be starting on the HG today most likely. Should be some fun there. 264,000 miles, original clutch, and on its second timing belt. This car is a champ.