THE LOWDOWN: Motoring the American West Where to Stay: We found the nearest campgrounds with RV hookups by searching the KOA website koa.com ; KOA provided reliable accommodations for most of our outdoor layovers.

Besides the small bundles of the long bones, there were full skeletons, tapa-wrapped, lying in one-man, and two - and three-man canoes of precious koa wood, with curved outriggers of wiliwili wood, and proper paddles to hand with the io-projection at the point simulating the continuance of the handle, as if, like a skewer, thrust through the flat length of the blade.