Model: 2006 330i N52 E90
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): Yes
I-Drive (yes/no): No
Active Steering (yes/no): No
Comfort Access (yes/no): No
Added: Window tint
Problem description:
The rear windows are getting stuck in the down position only when the window sits all the way down. When it attempts to go back up, it seems to catch on something.

I have found that if i kill the ignition on the car or turn on ACC mode it allows for the window to go up unhindered.

Problem description: at 45000 miles cooling fan stayed on from the time the car hit normal temp until you turn the car off. it did not matter the weather is could be cold out or hot no matter. FIX: changed the thermostate. 07 328I

Did the dealer change the thermostat or you did, if the dealer how much did that run you? The reason for question is that I am now having a similar issue with the radiator fan cycling on and off but only for like 3-5 seconds then shuts off, can it also be thermostat or as dealer things it may be the water pump

At 35k miles, my clutch blew out along with flywheel. Now at 70k miles, something else is wrong with my transmission. Ever since 35k, radio fluctuates and randomly has power surges and turns on and off randomly. Sometimes when I'm not even in the car (resting for over an hour) rear mount and transmission mount also went out at 40k for unknown reason? Suspension is fully sagged / dead at 70k miles. Bad enough for people to ask me what I'm lowered on whenever I go to a meet lol.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by The HACK

I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.

Could be one of two things, a power steering pump.... around maybe 500-600$ i think, not sure, or you need power steering pump fluid in there. I had the same problem with my 08 GTI mkV and my E46 M3. The GTI i just added the fluid and it worked, the M3 I had to replace the whole steering pump.

The heated rear tailgate window on my E91 3 series Tourer 325ia does not work, although the indicator light on the control panel light up. My BMW Supplying Dealer (yes I agree about all of them) says the battery voltage in not enough so that the car chooses what systems to allow to run and which to deactivate. I have charged the battery very fully but it still does not work. The heated wing mirrors are OK. Once or twice (intermittent) it did come on but not for a few months. Has anyone any ideas. I want to look at the fuses but although I can see the ones to pull, when I put my hand in it obscures the lot! Maybe I will try with a spring loaded claw thing. I think the BMW Dealer talks via his backside and really has no idea. Bryan King (UK)

Out of no where I started getting a weird vibration in the rear when turning right at slow speeds. This noise is completely driving me crazy! It started right after the tire pressure light came on. So I went to check tires and added air to proper psi and it still vibrates.

Model: 2006 330i N52 E90
Country: USA
Automatic transmission (yes/no): Yes
I-Drive (yes/no): No
Active Steering (yes/no): No
Comfort Access (yes/no): No
Added: Window tint
Problem description:
The rear windows are getting stuck in the down position only when the window sits all the way down. When it attempts to go back up, it seems to catch on something.

I have found that if i kill the ignition on the car or turn on ACC mode it allows for the window to go up unhindered.

I had this happen to my car after 3 years. Searches on the forum yielded many probably causes, including twisted wires on the regulator; or the window was caught on rubber seals. Still I had no solution. So, I bought a BMW window regulator and swapped it out.

Before installing the new unit, I compared the two and the originally installed component seemed smoother too. I did move the window fully up and down manually when the regulator was removed. Still I didn't see how anything could keep the window stuck down.

Installing the new regulator took about 45 minutes, but what was the biggest problem was re-setting the rear window top/bottom. That took almost an hour of trial and error. You have to re-initialize the window from that door's window control and not from the master switch on the driver's door.

I had to hold down the button fully down for over 60 seconds. Watch for the appearance of the window logo on the driver's console which shows that you have disabled the anti-trapping function. That means you have erased the old top and bottom stopping points from memory.

If the problem comes back in a few years, I am ok with it. For now the $100 spent gives me piece of mind.

The heated rear tailgate window on my E91 3 series Tourer 325ia does not work, although the indicator light on the control panel light up. My BMW Supplying Dealer (yes I agree about all of them) says the battery voltage in not enough so that the car chooses what systems to allow to run and which to deactivate. I have charged the battery very fully but it still does not work. The heated wing mirrors are OK. Once or twice (intermittent) it did come on but not for a few months. Has anyone any ideas. I want to look at the fuses but although I can see the ones to pull, when I put my hand in it obscures the lot! Maybe I will try with a spring loaded claw thing. I think the BMW Dealer talks via his backside and really has no idea. Bryan King (UK)

They are right, same happened to me where the rear window defogger operated intermittently and although you can charge the battery, it reached a point that when its weak it won't be enough to operate some of the high power draining features. The car draws a lot of juice and it is programmed to start shutting down some features so you'll have enough to start the engine and operate the most important features.

Problem description:
rpm slightly drops when first pressing the accelerator and then rise up normally after .
sometime causing a lag in changing gears , once RPM drops it changes to the next gear and then after a while it goes to the previous one (the right gear).
changed the exhaust selenoids , no improvement .

Dampness in floor boards
I have a 08' 328i and just recently since the winter hit I have had dampness and a few times puddles of water.... :-( Idk how to find leak because it doesn't leak water in the rain. Any ideas of what this would be or where to start.
Thanks

Dampness in floor boards
I have a 08' 328i and just recently since the winter hit I have had dampness and a few times puddles of water.... :-( Idk how to find leak because it doesn't leak water in the rain. Any ideas of what this would be or where to start.
Thanks

Check your drainage under the hood by the wipers on each side by the fenders

Could be one of two things, a power steering pump.... around maybe 500-600$ i think, not sure, or you need power steering pump fluid in there. I had the same problem with my 08 GTI mkV and my E46 M3. The GTI i just added the fluid and it worked, the M3 I had to replace the whole steering pump.

it's the power steering fluid. common issue when the level reaches the min dot.
i had it also before three months.
there are some videos in youtube also that you could watch.

2006 325i Automatic wifes car bought in Sept. 2005.
Near end of 36,000 miles warranty had ticking noise(lifters) Service said to wait and see if oil change would fix. No go at 38,000 had lifters replaced N/C. At 40,000 rear brakes replaced $200.00 I replaced pads and sensor. At 50,000 had valve in upper engine replaced $400.00 dealer. at 70,000 water pump failure $969.00 Dealer. At 77,000 had Oil pan gasket and oil change $1025.00 Dealer. At 78,000 noise in upper engine Dealer states oil pump has metal shavings and needs replacememt at cost of $1600.00 noise was caused by upper engine oil starvation. Hope this will fix noise. Otherwise another $2500.00 for upper valvetrain repair. All oil changes done by BMW.

I have 96 328i with 168,000 and have not had a engine problem. Knock on wood.

2006 325i Automatic wifes car bought in Sept. 2005.
Near end of 36,000 miles warranty had ticking noise(lifters) Service said to wait and see if oil change would fix. No go at 38,000 had lifters replaced N/C. At 40,000 rear brakes replaced $200.00 I replaced pads and sensor. At 50,000 had valve in upper engine replaced $400.00 dealer. at 70,000 water pump failure $969.00 Dealer. At 77,000 had Oil pan gasket and oil change $1025.00 Dealer. At 78,000 noise in upper engine Dealer states oil pump has metal shavings and needs replacememt at cost of $1600.00 noise was caused by upper engine oil starvation. Hope this will fix noise. Otherwise another $2500.00 for upper valvetrain repair. All oil changes done by BMW.

I have 96 328i with 168,000 and have not had a engine problem. Knock on wood.

Wow you had some bad luck with that car! I have the same car. Question, what type of noise were you hearing when the oil pump was diagnosed as the problem ?