Concealed within a wine store and deliberately lacking any signage, this whimsically named spot—a nod to its grape-steeped location—feels like a modern-day speakeasy for foodies. "Anything goes, so long as it's legal," bon-vivant chef–proprietor Marco Legasto says half-jokingly as he sips one of the venue's house pours. Blackboards list the seafood, meat and poultry du jour; resist the à la carte dishes—they exist for the uninspired. Better yet, when one of the chefs comes out to greet you, ask what's fresh from the market, and talk you through the possibilities. Make sure you're hungry: Legasto deploys generous lashings of butter and cream, the dishes are often large enough to share.

During our visit, we gave the kitchen free rein, and were rewarded with pan-fried duck breast with a shoyu–tamari jus, served with baby-spinach salad dressed with raspberry-and-macadamia-nut-oil vinaigrette. We found the duck was a tad dry but tasty, while the salad had a satisfying depth. Another diner demanded nouvelle Filipino—a request that produced a traditional tamarind-based sinigang stew enlivened with lemon zest and truffle oil. Desserts were more conventional, with classic rib-sticking dishes like tiramisu and bread-and-butter pudding.

Wine pairings are easy: all bottles from the shop are available, without a corkage charge. Cheers to that.Tel: +63 2 897 3220