Rao's in Hollywood: Spaghetti Western

Walking into Rao's, the new Hollywood iteration of the legendary 117-year-old New York eatery, is like wading into a thick nostalgia soup. Ninety percent of the red-sauce restaurants in the country look like this, and while it may be true that those places were imitating the original Rao's, that doesn't stop this restaurant from feeling like a cliche.

Walking into Rao's, the new Hollywood iteration of the legendary 117-year-old New York eatery, is like wading into a thick nostalgia soup. Ninety percent of the red-sauce restaurants in the country look like this, and while it may be true that those places were imitating the original Rao's, that doesn't stop this restaurant from feeling like a cliche.