Sunday, August 8, 2010

If you are planning a long ride or a move and you are taking your pet rabbit with you, there are several things you have to consider. Traveling by car with your pet rabbit may not be as easy as you think if you never made him travel before. There are at least 3 facts you must know about before you made that decision.

Traveling can stressed out your rabbit Most rabbit will not enjoy long rides because of all the stress that being in a car will be giving them. If you absolutely have to take your rabbit on a long trip, you need a good size pet carrier to put him in. Put a towel on the bottom and bring plenty more to change them later along with food, hay and a bottle of water. Also take plenty of fresh vegetables and extra food for a long ride.

Rabbits are sensitive to overheating If you are planing on traveling in the summer months, remember to never leave the rabbit in the car while you stop, even if it is only for a quick one. Rabbits can overheat very easily and in just for a few minutes, they can suffocate and die. If your car does not have air conditioned, prepare in advance some frozen bottles of water that you put in the carrier wrapped in small towels so the rabbit can lean against them to cool off.

Take time to get him out to exercise If you will be traveling for several days in a row, get your rabbit out every night and take him in the motel room with you. Lay a large towel on the bathroom floor and install his litter box, food and water. Put the pet carrier on the doorway with the open door facing the bathroom and let him out so you can go for dinner without worrying about him destroying anything.

Remember that if your pet is not used to it, traveling by car with your pet rabbit could be risky. Some bunnies can get really stressed out and stop eating for over 24 hours, witch could be dangerous for their lives. Unless you have no other choice, if you are moving for example, it would be safer for your little friend to find him a keeper while you are going away.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Rabbit diarrhea is a serious problem and can result in the death of your rabbit if not spotted quickly.

What is diarrhea? It is when your rabbit excretes a large quantity of dark brown or dark blood infused stools instead of normal stools. If this occurs it is an emergency and so contact your vet immediately

It is generally a symptom of an underlying health issue. The underlying health issue is the cause and the diarrhea is the effect.

As you can imagine there are quite a few underlying health issues that can result in your rabbit having diarrhea. So, in this article, we are going to look at a few of those issues.

Gastrointestinal/digestive system health problems are a main cause of diarrhea. There can be many causes; diet, genetics, disease, virus or bacteria. If you follow the high fiber, low carbohydrate diet detailed then your rabbit's diet should not cause any problems. To find out more about a high fiber, low carbohydrate diet you should consult your vet or a good rabbit care guide.

Two of the most common gastrointestinal problems that cause diarrhea are:

Enteritis

Enteritis is a specific gastrointestinal problem and is an infection or inflammation of the intestines. The cause is a change in the balance of good and bad bacterium within your rabbit's digestive system. The bad bacteria overgrow resulting in disease. Symptoms indicative of enteritis are:

The most common root cause of this bacterial imbalance and disease is a low fiber, high carbohydrate diet.

Enterotoxemia

Another very serious gastrointestinal problem is Enterotoxemia. This is where a bacterial imbalance results in toxins being produced. These toxins are absorbed into the rabbit's blood and poison him. Maintaining a healthy high fiber diet can help prevent this condition.

Symptoms indicative of Enterotoxemia are:

diarrheageneral weaknessloss of appetite

This condition can result in the sudden death of your rabbit and so you should contact your vet immediately

Of course your rabbit may also get diarrhea from eating a food that did not agree with their system. But it is always best to contact your vet for further advice if your rabbit does have diarrhea.

A common theme throughout this article has been that a good, high fiber, low carbohydrate diet can go a long way to prevent some of the diarrhea causing health issues. It is therefore a very good idea to head out and learn how to correctly feed your rabbit.

When breeding rabbits, it is best to make a record of the date of breeding so you can anticipate when your rabbit needs her nestbox. If you are unsure of whether or not your doe has been around a buck, you may want to keep an eye on her for awhile to make sure you're not surprised if she has a litter. Even veterinarians may misdiagnose pregnancy in a rabbit; it isn't that easy to tell. Rabbit gestation is approximately 31 days, so if your doe goes well beyond that without exhibiting any of these signs, she probably isn't pregnant.

Age

How old is your doe? It is best that does not be bred until they are between six and nine months old, but sometimes, they can conceive as early as three or four months of age. If this rabbit is new to you, ask the breeder you got her from when she was separated from her brothers. It wouldn't be the first "oops" litter to happen when littermates are not separated early enough.

Palpation

Around three weeks into the pregnancy, sometimes you can feel little "marbles" inside your doe's belly. If you don't feel them, don't assume she isn't pregnant. They can be difficult to feel for some, even when they've been raising rabbits for years. First litters are harder to palpate due to better abdominal muscle tone on the doe.

Behavior

Some does will get aggressive while pregnant. Does she pounce towards your hand when you reach into the cage? Is she beginning to growl at you when you open the cage door? These could be signs your doe is pregnant... or that she's hit puberty or wants to be bred. Aggression is a possible clue to pregnancy, but not a definitive answer.

Nesting

Some does start nesting early, while others wait until the last minute, so be prepared with a nestbox either way. A doe that carries her hay around in her mouth so it looks like a hay moustache is nesting. A doe that starts pulling clumps of fur off her belly and dewlap is nesting. If you've got both going on... give that girl a nestbox as soon as possible! Give her plenty of hay to fill it with and let her have her fun. If she makes the nest outside of the nestbox, carefully move the nest into the box and place the box where the nest was originally made.

Of course, some does don't make nests or pull fur until after the babies are born, in which case by the time you discover them, they may have gotten chilled. Babies in this instance most likely won't live unless you can warm them fast enough. Wearing chilled babies next to your skin may help, or setting them under a brooder light might work if you keep an eye on them so they don't get overheated.

If your doe is pregnant, congratulations on the new litter! Check the nestbox daily to count bodies to make sure they are all lively and warm. Remove any that die. If your doe isn't pregnant, you won't need to worry about all those extra bunny mouths to feed.

Friday, August 6, 2010

I have always been amazed at the odd things that arise in the course of my association with rabbits during the thirty-three years that I have practiced veterinary medicine. Growing up in the West Bronx had never afforded me the opportunity to become familiar with these animals, and the thought of someone actually keeping them as pets had never even dawned on me.

What put rabbits on my veterinary radar screen was the information about their reproductive physiology. They were induced ovulators, a trait unique to only cats and rabbits. All other species of animals ovulate at a set time during their cycle; the induced ovulators release their eggs only during mating, thus assuring a very high rate of fertilization and reproduction. The facts that the does possess two cervixes and that immediately after mating, the buck stiffens and falls over on his side and remains in a catatonic trance for fifteen seconds, only served to enhance the mystique!

And that was pretty much the extent of my rabbit knowledge after graduating from veterinary school. The New York State veterinary licensing exam is a three-day written and practical test that I took upon graduation. Luckily, it didn’t expose my dearth of knowledge -- there wasn’t a mention of a rabbit on the entire exam. However, the situation wasn’t quite the same a few months later when I took the California licensing exam. You can only imagine how surprised I was when I stumbled into twenty-five questions about -- you guessed it -- the reproductive physiology of rabbits! I answered all the questions by extrapolating my knowledge of cats, and I must have guessed well because my license was in my mailbox by the time I returned to the East Coast.

A discussion about the California exam wouldn’t be complete without mentioning yet an additional irony. There were four or five questions regarding false pregnancy in rabbits -- questions that I answered by substituting the word cat for rabbit, but it was the final question that caused me to break with the pattern of cat-inspired answers. The true or false question simply asked whether false pregnancies were common in rabbits. I had never heard of or seen the condition in cats, but couldn’t understand why the exam would waste several questions on an irrelevant condition. So I broke with tradition and correctly, fortunately, answered "True." The funny thing is that I have yet to see this condition in practice, and have been waiting expectantly for over thirty years.

Shortly after moving to California, I found myself living in Laguna Beach and practicing in Laguna Hills. I was befriended by Dr. Kopit, who was at that time, serving as president of the Southern California Veterinary Association. A significant portion of his practice was made up of exotic pets and he knew all the tricks that an experienced practitioner acquires through the years. On this particular afternoon he called me into the treatment area as he was about to trim the nails and clip the teeth on a very apprehensive rabbit. “Ever see a rabbit hypnotized?” he asked. I thought that he was kidding, but he proceeded to gently turn the rabbit on its back and slowly and rhythmically slide him back and forth on the tabletop. Amazingly, within fifteen seconds the rabbit relaxed and lapsed into a trance-like state. It was incredible to watch as the procedures were done without the rabbit reacting in any way. At first I thought that it was some type of trick and insisted on seeing whether I could duplicate the technique. It worked flawlessly and I realized what a valuable tool this would be. Restraint of rabbits can be a very precarious. Overzealous restraint can easily result in fractures of the back when a struggling rabbit kicks violently with its powerful hind legs, essentially causing the back to snap like a twig. I like the peaceful nature of the hypnotic restraint so much that very often I demonstrate it for clients just for the entertainment value!

Rabbits visit me at the hospital for a variety of reasons. Some come to be spayed or neutered. This is especially helpful in households that have more than one rabbit and there is the need for population control or to prevent fighting between same sex rivals. Others come for maintenance procedures such as nail trims and teeth cutting.

Because most pet rabbits spend lots of time in hutches with wire mesh flooring, they don’t get a chance to wear down their nails naturally, which often results in bizarre overgrowths. Teeth continue to grow throughout the life of the rabbit. If there weren’t a mechanism in place to prevent the unlimited elongation of the teeth it would ultimately be impossible to close the mouth and ingest food. One of the ways that the tooth surfaces are worn down is through chewing on hard fibrous food. The other is by having the opposing teeth in the mouth wear each other down during the chewing and grinding that accompanies eating. Rabbits whose teeth do not line up properly can expect a lifetime of visits to mechanically grind or cut the overgrown teeth. The front teeth, the incisors, are easily accessible and are cut with a nail trimmer. The molar teeth are hard to access and have to be done under a general anesthetic. Rabbits -- an orthodontist’s delight or nightmare?

Illness also causes visits to the hospital. Snuffles is the cute name given to a not so cute, chronic bacterial respiratory condition. Ear mites are also common in rabbits. The parasites burrow under the surface of the ear canal causing the canal to secrete layers of earwax in an attempt to protect itself from the hungry invaders. When treating the condition, the ear is first cleaned of the wax formation, which can approach the size of a small pine cone! It is ironic that in seeking to protect itself, the ear secretes the wax that is used by the mites as their food. No wonder these parasites have survived over the ages -- evolution in action.

More rabbits suffer from heat stroke than any other animal I see. Leaving them in unsheltered environments on hot summer days is a sure recipe for disaster. The grossest thing that that causes rabbits to wind up as patients is severe infestations with maggots. These infestations usually occur from under the tail to the groin and are usually the result of diarrheal feces that have adhered to the fur in those areas. Flies are drawn to the area, lay their eggs and presto, the hungry larvae emerge ready to eat anything in sight. Interestingly, the most common cause of diarrhea is the formation of hairballs in the intestine. The most effective way to prevent their formation is by feeding fresh pineapple two to three times per week. The acid in the pineapple acts as a Draino for Rabbits when used regularly!

During times of famine, rabbits become practitioners of an ancient survival technique, known as coprophagy. It is a trait that they share with elephants! Coprophagy is the act of eating your own feces in order to extract any remaining nutrients that escaped the first time around. Occasionally I get calls from distraught rabbit owners who report seeing this behavior. The solution that I suggest is simple -- increase their food ration and this primal instinct will become dormant.

Yet, of all the amazing things that I have learned about rabbits, my biggest surprise had to do with my head groomer. When I bought the animal hospital twenty-five years ago, the former owner said to me that John was the best thing that I would inherit in the deal. Never were truer words spoken, for John is a true animal whisperer. He has never, ever needed any animal to be tranquilized. Even the meanest, nastiest cats and the biggest, most aggressive dogs melt in his presence. It is simply uncanny! So you can only imagine my shock, about ten years into our association, when I requested that a bath and grooming be done on a matted rabbit. John came to me and sheepishly said, “Doctor B, I can’t bathe that rabbit for you. I’m afraid of them, they remind me of big rats.”

A Rabbit Run may be the best thing that you can give to your favorite pet.

We should never take it for granted that our pet rabbit is happy and content inside his cage.

Yes, he is fed nutritious food and goodies daily and given enough revitalizing water to drink. We shower him with plush toys and other playthings. We even give them names and treat them like true members of our family.

We protect our bunny friends from harm by rabbit proofing our homes lest they get trapped in small spaces they cannot crawl their way out of, and keeping deadly predators away from his cage and living area.

He has everything except the things that he needs most, exercise and good old sunshine and fresh air. A Rabbit Run may just be what the doctor ordered for your favorite pet.

Although your rabbit is probably bred in captivity, a Rabbit Run can give your pet the natural habitat he is genetically longing for.

Rabbits crave the great outdoors! Like you, they like getting out of their cramped living quarters every now and then, to enjoy a little rest and recreation, basking in the sun and feeling soft grass caress their bellies.

Rabbits are natural woodland creatures. They partake of the bounty of the land. They cover large distances just to satisfy their hunger. All this with nary a complaint. Because that is how they are built. Natural foragers like rabbits are nature’s forest rangers.

Think about he must be feeling, even with all the perks and gifts you give him. He must be really bored, all cooped up in that tight cage of his.

Let him loose inside a spacious Rabbit Run and have him jump and run and explore till he cannot do so anymore. He will thank you by being receptive to your petting and rabbit talk.

Give your beloved pet a Rabbit Run and nurture his natural instincts to run and hop inside a controlled and protected environment.

Also, space constraints affect your rabbits if they live in inefficiently-designed cages.

What if you decide on getting an additional rabbit? How do you solve a problem like cramped rabbit living quarters? Do you cram all of them into a tight space? Of course not!

If you truly loved your pet, you would not subject them to such an inhuman position.

A Double Rabbit Hutch can solve that problem by providing your pet with adequate room inside for sleeping and a littler roaming about.

Rabbit hutches are far different than rabbit cages. They provide spacious quarters for the rabbits, unlike the little space a cage can offer. Much like giving a rabbit a mansion after letting him live in a shoebox for so long.

It’s like a two storey townhouse for rabbits! Easily modified to expand for additional members, the Double Rabbit Hutch is also a space saver. Being two-tiered, it frees valuable space in your homes, all the while providing adequate living and roaming quarters for your pet rabbits.

You can easily add another member of the family wide in the Double Rabbit Hutch as it is spacious and expandable, accommodating more rabbits than conventional cages.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

If you own a rabbit and aren't quite sure what to do with him or her why not train him. I will show you step by step how to litter train your pet rabbit. Within a few weeks, your rabbit will be trained to use a litter box both in and out of his cage. Don't worry, its not that hard to do, I did it with my six year old daughter.

Here are three things you should do before you start to actually train your rabbit.

1) Make sure you have a proper cage for your rabbit:His cage should be big enough for him to have a "living" area and a "potty" area.

2)Let your rabbit exercise everyday.You should have your rabbit out to exercise 1-2 times a day for 30-60 minutes.

3) Feed your rabbitYou should feed your rabbit a combination of fruits, vegetables and dry food three times a day.You will find that your rabbit has one or two favorite treats which you will use when you begin to train him.Ok now that you have spent a some time getting to know your rabbit and have become friends its time to start training.

Litter Training Your RabbitThis should be the first thing you teach your rabbit to do. It is a fairly easy task to do plus it will eliminate having to clean up after him while you are training himother commands. You will need a litterpan about 4 inches high and either hay or nonclumping rabbit litter to put in the litter box. DO NOT use regular cat litter. The dust can cause respiratory problems for your rabbit. Place the litter box in the room where you have been letting him exercise. Remove some "rabbit pebbles" from the bottom of your rabbits cage and place them in the litter box. Put your rabbit in the litter box and use a command like "rabbits name, go pebbles" or "rabbits name, go potty ". Don't worry if your rabbit hops out of the box, let him hop around for 10 minutes then place him back in the box and repeat the command. When you see your rabbit go potty in the box, praise him by scratching his nose or stroking his head and say "good rabbits name" or good boy/girl". DO NOT give your rabbit a treat for going potty. Do this everyday for a week. By the end of the week your rabbit should hop in the pan and go potty whenever you have him out of his cage.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

The Angora rabbit (Turkish: Ankara tavşanı) is a variety of domestic rabbits bred for its long, soft hair. The Angora is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbit, originating in Ankara, Turkey, along with the Angora cat and Angora goat. The rabbits were popular pets with French royalty in the mid 1700s, and spread to other parts of Europe by the end of the century. They first appeared in the United states in the early 1900s. They are bred largely for their long angora wools, which may be removed by shearing, combing, or plucking. There are many individual breeds of Angora rabbits, four of which are ARBA recognized.They are English, French, Giant and Satin. Other breeds include German, Chinese, Swiss and Finnish, to name a few.

Coat and appearance

Angoras are bred mainly for their wool because it is silky and soft. They have a humorous appearance, as they oddly resemble a fur ball. Most are calm and docile but should be handled carefully. Grooming is necessary to prevent the fibre from matting and felting on the rabbit. A condition "wool block" is common in angora rabbits and should be treated quickly.These rabbits are shorn every three to four months throughout the year.

Medical Considerations

Rabbits are unique because they do not possess the same allergy-causing qualities as many other animals. The average rabbit can live for about 5–7 years when kept indoors and well-cared for. However, many outdoors rabbits have a shorter lifespan. Maintenance is a must. The Satin Angora has a much lower guard hair count and their wool becomes easy tangled. Regardless of breed, all Angoras must be monitored to prevent wool block, a condition where their innards become clogged with hair.

Breeds

There are four different ARBA-recognized Angora rabbit breeds: English, French, Giant and Satin. The German Angora is also common, but is not ARBA recognized. It has its own association; the IAGARB.

In 1939, ARBA reclassified "Angora Wooler" into "English Type" and "French Type". In 1944, ARBA officially separate Angora rabbit into two breeds: English Angora and French Angora.

Rabbits of the angora breed are adorned with "fur," growths of wool on the ears and the entire face except above the nose, and front feet, along with their thick body, and wool. They are gentle in nature, but they are not

recommended for those who do not groom their animals. Their wool is very thick and needs to be groomed twice a week.

This is the smallest Angora rabbit of the four breeds recognized by ARBA. This breed is more common as

a pet because of the facial features that give it a puppy dog or teddy bear look. If the texture of the wool is correct, the maintenance is relatively easy; if the texture of the rabbit is cottony, it requires a great deal of maintenance.

The English angora can be bred to have broken colors, (ex: the rabbit is white with black spots.) This is not accepted by ARBA standards and would lead to a disqualification when showing the rabbit. When showing an English angora rabbit the toe nails should also be only one color, the ears could be folded over at the tips, and the furnishings on the face may cover their eyes.The English Angora rab

on the surface, with wool as an undercoat. If the texture is correct, it requires less maintenance than other Angora breeds. Small ear tufts are allowed but not usually preferred by breeders. ARBA recognizes the same colors as with English Angora, plus

broken. They are shown at ARBA shows using the types "white" and "colored" (broken being a colored). As with other ARBA shown rabb

its toe nails should also be only one color.

The French Angora is one of the large Angora breeds at 7½ to 10 lbs, with a commercial body type. It differs from the English, Giant and German Angora in that it possesses a clean face and front feet with only minor tufting on the rear legs. The color of a French Angora is determined by the color of its head, feet and tail (all the same color)

The Giant Angora is the largest of the ARBA accepted angora breeds, having been created by Louise Walsh, of Taunton, Massachusetts to be an efficient wool producing rabbit sustained with 16-18% alfalfa based rabbit feed & hay and living in the standard

size all wire cages used for commercial breeds. Its coat contains three types of wool: soft under wool, awn fluff, and awn hair; the awn type wool exists only on the giant and German angora. This breed should have furnishings on the face and ears. Many people confuse German angora with Giant angora, but they are not the same.

This is the largest of the four ARBA recognized Angora breeds. The only color ARBA officially recognizes for Giant angora is REW (Ruby Eyed White), or as more commonly referred to as

an "albino"-indicating the absence of color pigment in the genetic makeup. The Giant Angora produces more wool than the French, Satin or English Angora. Unlike the German angora Giant Angora rabbits do molt. But it is a partial molt when the coat is approximately three months old. Some of its wool can be harvested by plucking. The remaining wool which is not easily removed in that manner may be cut or shorn. Like the German Angora, They require their wool to be harvested at least once every 90 days.

Since rabbits ingest their wool when they groom themselves clipping off of their wool at least once every 90 days is considered a must in order to prevent "wool block" from occurring. the wool swallowed by the rabbit can not be coughed or vomited up and will cause the rabbit to slowly starve to death as its digestive system and intestinal tract fill up with their ingested wool, if left untreated wool block can lead to death. It is widely held among serious angora breeders that along with ample cage space to exercise and feeding fresh horse quality hay on a daily basis will help keep the wool moving through the system and prevent wool block. it is also widely he

ld that feeding both bromaline (found in fresh pineapple) and papaya occasionally will aid in breaking down the ingested wool, and aiding in its passage through the rabbits system.

Like many other "giant" breeds of rabbits the Giant Angora grows slowly. A senior doe usually takes 1+ yr to reach full maturity (size and weight). A senior buck, can take up to 1.5 years to fully mature (size and weight).

Satin

The Satin Angora is derived from a cross between a Satin and a French Angora. This breed is named for the extremely soft texture of its wool. It has no furnishings on face, ears, or feet, and it is also easy to groom compared to the English variety. Satin Angora's wool is said to be stronger for spinning than other varieties of Angora.

They are shown at ARBA shows using the types "white" and "colored"(broken not approved). As with other ARBA shown rabbits toe nails should also be only one color. The color of a Satin Angora is determined by the color of its head, feet and tail (all the same color).

This breed does not produce as much wool as other breeds of Angora rabbits. This trait is being improved upon by selective breeding. The wool should have a silky texture with good guard hair for ease of maintenance.

Personality

Angora Rabbits are active, playful and social with lots of personality. They enjoy the attention of their owner, as well as the companionship of other rabbits and often house angora will nap with a docile mannered cat. They enjoy having toys, for example a plastic ball, a pine cone, a piece of soft wood, a stuffed sock, or an old glove.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Mini Lop Rabbits are the sweetest addition to anyones family, here we have compiled tips from our years of keeping and breeding rabbits.

Housing your rabbit is crucial and the bigger the better. Mini Lop Rabbits need somewhere they can run or be outside. They need sunlight too. However, on highly hot days they do need protection since they do not sweat and run a chance of dehydrating or overheating.

Feed your rabbit.

It is suggested that your mini lop rabbit eat a diet that's grass or hay based. For the bulk of rabbits, we recommend feeding them in limited quantities of top quality kind of rabbit food which is a mix or pellets and limitless hay. You can supplement this diet with other green foods. You can change the proportions of the foodstuff above and provide your rabbit with a natural diet that is composed of mainly hay and greens and smaller quantities of pellets or mix. This type of hay and plant diet suits most rabbits well as it is closely related to the diet of a wild rabbit.

Unfortunately, lettuce could cause runny stools and risk of dehydration which is the reason for it not being included in our list. Many of us think rabbits eat lettuce I continue to find people giving me lettuce for my rabbits, but it truly isnt good for them.

It is in the best interest of your mini lop rabbit to continue feeding them the food we offer you when you buy a baby rabbit and then tell you when to make a few changes. When this is not possible, you need to continue using the first food and then gradually add your present feed mixed up with the first feed. Just make sure that the food you do get is of top quality and the rabbit gets its advised daily necessities of minerals and vitamins. Remember that baby rabbits should not eat vegetables till around 3 to 4 months of age.

Litter, Bedding and Nesting Material for Your Pet Rabbit to absorb and collect waste, litter is the material placed on the floor of a rabbit hutch. Many owners call this bedding. Some of the materials used for litter can be useful for bedding. Nesting materials are materials that a rabbit uses to make a soft bed in its favorite place to sleep. Various sorts of Bedding and Litter for your Pet Rabbit

A variety of rabbit litter I open to you, for example sawdust slices, wood chips, clay and corncobs. The bottom of the cage should be covered with this type of litter materials in order to soak up the odours and collect waste. Cedar shavings are far more concentrated in smell. Pine and aspen bedding has lower amounts of aromatic oils. You need to talk with your veterinarian about the kind of bedding that's compatible with your rabbit, since its respiratory system can be compromised with overly aromatic oil smells. Corncob bedding may cause impactions after being consumed so this type is not recommended.

Changing a Rabbit's Litter and Bedding, you may change the litter weekly. It can be damaging to your rabbit if it is confined to a cage that holds a high concentration of ammonia smoke. You can reduce this smell by cleaning out the soiled corner daily. You may scale back the odours from your rabbit hutch by using an all natural Pet Deodoriser.

Children and Rabbits, Are you considering a rabbit for your children? Rabbits are wonderful family pets for children of every age as they can partake of its care. Remember that rabbits live for approximately 10 years and youngsters cannot be expected to maintain their interest in pet care for that period. A responsible adult is known as for when it comes to rabbit care. When children get busy with other issues the may not notice that a rabbit is not eating sensibly and this is essential for a rabbit.

Mini Lop Rabbits do not enjoy being picked up and when mishandled can be injured simply. They can die from falls or being dropped. Do not allow any kid under eight years old to pick up your rabbit. When young children are holding a rabbit, they deserve to be sitting on the ground so the rabbit can't fall. I have sadly heard of a child picking a rabbit up and dropping it causing such a severely broken bone the rabbit was put to sleep, children must be supervised it's way better to sit them on the floor so the rabbit can not fall, rabbits dont like being up in the air they are designed to be on the ground and may feel terribly insecure if you pick them up and carry them around.

It is highly recommended the mini lop rabbit similar to cats and dogs be desired by the adults of a family since when children loose their interest in the pet, it does not wind up in a shelter or out in the woods.

People who want to raise rabbit pets sometimes wonder about raising techniques. One of the several things to remember is rabbit care. The issue is this - how can raisers completely give proper care for rabbits? Giving rabbits the most proper attention also means giving them their basic in order to live happy and healthy. These helpful tips are absolutely easy to follow for pet owners and rabbit aficionados.

For the most part, be able to provide rabbits with appropriate food supply. Bringing them proper foodstuff means proper nutrition for their sustained survival. Lots of rabbit owners likely provide food even without finding out if the foodstuff is essential or just unsafe for the rabbit pets.

Nowadays, lots of commercially produced rabbit foods are positively promoted. Conversely, pet owners must be aware of this because some of these commercial rabbit foods can be deceiving and cannot really provide the right nutrients to your pet. So, as a pet owner, you must learn what is essential and know the nutrients that rabbit pets actually need.

A rabbit's digestive system needs a stable diet. When they have eaten anything beyond their usual diet, it can pose health troubles on the rabbit pets. They can consume fresh hay, oat, timothy, alfalfa or grass hay. These are top sources of rabbit diet. These are needed to maintain the balance of their digestion. The absence of hay can mean enduring effects inside their frail digestive system.

Another main rabbit food sources are pellets. It can be the pure pellets, pellets with seeds or pellets with treats and either of these you can get for your rabbit pets to eat. These veggies and fruits are better food sources but remember to give these to your rabbit pets as moderate and regulated as possible because the sugar content of these foods can also affect the rabbit's health. Fruits and veggies are suggested for bunnies after six months of their existence.

Rabbit care likewise includes a nice shelter for them to stay. Ideally, rabbit cages or shelters should be a safe place or location which is for them to roam around and will provide them with a secured environment from any environmental and weather risks such as extreme coldness, severe temperature and impending predators. Furthermore, it is significant to know the type of cage that will be suitable for your pet. You can choose for rabbit pets, either a wire or a wooden cage.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

If you own a rabbit and aren't quite sure what to do with him or her why not train him. I will show you step by step how to litter train your pet rabbit. Within a few weeks, your rabbit will be trained to use a litter box both in and out of his cage. Don't worry, its not that hard to do, I did it with my six year old daughter.

Here are three things you should do before you start to actually train your rabbit.

1) Make sure you have a proper cage for your rabbit:His cage should be big enough for him to have a "living" area and a "potty" area.

2)Let your rabbit exercise everyday.You should have your rabbit out to exercise 1-2 times a day for 30-60 minutes.

3) Feed your rabbitYou should feed your rabbit a combination of fruits, vegetables and dry food three times a day.You will find that your rabbit has one or two favorite treats which you will use when you begin to train him.Ok now that you have spent a some time getting to know your rabbit and have become friends its time to start training.

Litter Training Your RabbitThis should be the first thing you teach your rabbit to do. It is a fairly easy task to do plus it will eliminate having to clean up after him while you are training himother commands. You will need a litterpan about 4 inches high and either hay or nonclumping rabbit litter to put in the litter box. DO NOT use regular cat litter. The dust can cause respiratory problems for your rabbit. Place the litter box in the room where you have been letting him exercise. Remove some "rabbit pebbles" from the bottom of your rabbits cage and place them in the litter box. Put your rabbit in the litter box and use a command like "rabbits name, go pebbles" or "rabbits name, go potty ". Don't worry if your rabbit hops out of the box, let him hop around for 10 minutes then place him back in the box and repeat the command. When you see your rabbit go potty in the box, praise him by scratching his nose or stroking his head and say "good rabbits name" or good boy/girl". DO NOT give your rabbit a treat for going potty. Do this everyday for a week. By the end of the week your rabbit should hop in the pan and go potty whenever you have him out of his cage.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Rabbit care basics are all about how you should treat your pet rabbit. It is about how they will be able to live a healthy life in your hands. But for you to be able to give them the love and attention they need you must be familiar with some of the guidelines of rabbit care basic which is very important in handling pet rabbits. Their health is in your hands.

Another factor of rabbit care basic is how you should see to it that they are in god health. As an owner, you must always check if your pet rabbit is feeling fine. Rabbits can't talk that's why you must know whether they are sick or not. You also must see to it that they are getting the right kind of food for their age and situations.

Rabbits' need differ from their condition and breeds. Small rabbits does not require large amount of food and shelter. Pregnant rabbits do need extra amount of pellets and veggies to help her body function well especially the she have litters inside her that are also getting nourishment from all the food she takes.

Here are some important guidelines you must understand and follow about rabbit care basics:

1. When trimming their nails, you must dampen their paws first before trimming it but never overtrim their nails because it might bleed.

2. Do not use any flea soap or flea shampoo when bathing your rabbit. These could get into their eyes and could really harm them. When you are going to bathe them, use no tears shampoo and if you suspects that they have fleas in their coats, never use any flea products instead consult your vet about flea comb.

3. See to it that your pet rabbit gets the right kind of food in right amount. Pellets should be given º cups every day and should also have their veggies and fruits too.

4. Always give your pet rabbits fresh and clean water. Rabbits are fluid drinkers and they could get dehydrated easily when they are not able to drink. If this happens, feed them with Pedialyte to replenish the loss fluid from their bodies.

5. A rabbit's cage should also be larger than his size so he can have enough room to move around.

6. Clean the cage at least twice a week.

7. Feed your pet rabbit with ample supply of oats and timothy hay.

8. Let your pet rabbit do his daily exercise and the ideal time for it is two hours every day.

9. Never give your pet rabbit any cedar because this might cause respiratory blockage or worse it could kill them when digested.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Rabbits Diet: Is your rabbit eating right?

The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.

Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit's diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.

Pellets

Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.

Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14?15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram (? and ? cup of pellets per 6 pounds) body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets. An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.

Hay

Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent gastrointestinal stasis and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items. Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.

Treats

Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.

Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.

Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.

However, fresh fruits should not be given to rabbits under the age of 4 months because their digestive system are not always developed enough to handle the fruit. It can cause enteritis that causes death within 48 hours.

While a common myth that rabbits should be given lettuce, this is not a good idea because it contains little to no nutritional value for the rabbit and again can cause enteritis which leads to a quick death.

Caecal pellets

Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit's only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit's digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food. At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit's digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Rabbits are clean animals and they enjoy being litter-trained; therefore, they are quite happy to live in rabbit cages which keep them safe and comfortable. There are many styles of prefabricated or do-it-yourself cages to choose from according to your preferences and needs. Well made, indoor and large outdoor cages or pens will help your pet live a happy, healthy life.

The first and most important factor to consider with any type of cage is, however, that the size ought to correspond proportionally to the size of the bunny. It is recommended that the cage be at least four times as big as your rabbit. A 36" x 36" cage, with a height of 24" to 36", ought to be sufficient to accommodate a single rabbit weighing over 8 pounds.

Any style of cage with a height of at least 24" could accommodate within it a second-story loft with a ramp. This type of cage, as well as those without a loft and only one story high, would benefit from having a ramp which leads from the exit-way allowing your pet to come and go leisurely from their little haven. It is for this specific reason that a cage with a side-door is recommended over one with a top door.

Your cage should have a secure locking device to ensure that it remains tightly closed, especially in the case of side doors. Otherwise, it would be unfortunate if the little furry guy or gal squeezed through, burrowed out, or got stuck in the doorway when no one was around to catch it or help it out of its dilemma!

A cage with a larger doorway on the side is preferable over a smaller one one so as to facilitate easy removal of a litter pan. And as previously mentioned, the rabbit can then get itself in and out easily without your help. Since the best cages are made of wire, it would be in your best interest, and that of your rabbit's, to ensure that the all side-door frames are smoothly covered to prevent injuries and deter rabbit-chewing.

A style of cage with wood flooring instead of wire would be cozier for your pet so its paws and skin do not become irritated. If treated with a non-toxic substance and fitted tightly against the sides of the cage, wood flooring would be safe for bunny, impossible to chew and easy to remove for cleaning. A soft layer of hay covering an easy-clean floor would be appreciated by your rabbit and the cleanliness of the cage would be simple to maintain.

Hay will stay fresh, soft and dry if there is a litter box available for your pet and if the hay-bed is replaced at least weekly. You can simply brush the old hay from the wood, wipe the floor clean using non-toxic cleaners and reduce your cleaning time while simultaneously making this style almost self-cleaning - you will be as happy as your pet!

Outdoor types of cages can be constructed or prefabricated just as easily as indoor ones. A well-covered, secure, outdoor playpen area would be appreciated by your pet, but don't forget to be sure that you have laid down an indestructible floor underneath it - as rabbits love to burrow and chew.

Bad weather and predators such as cats, dogs, hawks, etc. Will not be able to harm your pet in its safe, outdoor cage. In addition to the indoor styles mentioned earlier, an outdoor cage modeled with a bit of sophistication would sport a water-proof, covered top. If this cover allowed light in as well, your bunny would love to being out of doors while you are away during the workday provided it will be shielded from the blazing sun. It will also enjoy sleeping in its protected environment all night long.

The range of styles of rabbit cages is much larger than one would think. Given that wide selection, however, just a as with humans, the cleaner and safer rabbit cages are, the happier the rabbit.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Rabbits are adorable and cuddly pets that both children and adults equally like. Providing a wonderful home for your innocent pet is the first thing that you need to consider before buying a rabbit. Usually, two types of housing options are available for rabbits: hutches and cages.

Rabbit Hutches

These are built as outdoor housing units for rabbits. Traditional designs have three sides made of wood with a wired front and bottom. Usually, there will be doors at the back. The whole structure is supported by long legs so that the rabbits can be kept away from the ground for protection from extreme chills and predators. A hutch can house many rabbits in independent compartments. Hutches are great for outdoor housing of rabbits as it does not require daily cleaning, though you need to remove the droppings occasionally.

However, there are also some negative sides to housing your pet rabbits in a hutch. Since they are placed outside, hutches are exposed to the changing weather conditions. Extreme cold climate can be hazardous for most varieties of pet rabbits. Likewise, they are also prone to attack from predators. Though they are safe inside the hutch, small animals like dogs, cats, etc. can scare them and even cause their death. Care must be taken to house the rabbits in warmer places and away from predator attack.

Rabbit Cages

Perhaps the best option to keep rabbits inside or outside the house is to put them in proper cages. Indoor cages help you to keep your pets inside the house with you. Since rabbits love the company of humans, they are also happy to see the people, hear their voices, and being cuddled and played with more often. Well-trained rabbits can even play in your house and retire to their cages whenever they like or when it is time to shut them up for the night. Weather changes do not affect them and they are also safe from predators, unless you have a pet cat or dog that has access to the indoors. You also need to clean the cage on a daily basis.

Different types of materials are used for rabbit cages. Most people prefer the wired variety as it is easier to clean. Another advantage of all-wire cages is that it does not let any odor remain in the cages as against the solid variety which accumulate the rabbit droppings. The odor will still be there in the solid rabbit cages even after you clean them.

When you buy or build rabbit cages, make sure that they are quite airy and has sufficient space for your big bunny to hop around. Even if your pet is small in size, it will be a good idea to have a big cage so that it does not feel crammed inside. While outdoor hutches are mainly for protection, indoor cages can be treated as decorative features. Since the rabbits are already protected by the walls of the house, the indoor cages can be considered as a supplementary housing. People who prefer indoor cages usually choose aesthetic models that complement the interior of the room where it is placed.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Rabbits are naturally clean animals that groom themselves frequently. Apart from regular brushing to prevent the formation of hairballs, they should not normally require any extra bathing. Some pet owners, particularly those who intend to show their rabbits, may want to go an extra step to keep their rabbits smelling fresh and free of dirt.

For these owners, there are a number of commercial dry rabbit shampoos that can simply be brushed through the fur without the need for rinsing. This is important because rabbits, as a rule, should not be bathed. There are several reasons for this. Although there are reports of rabbits who enjoy paddling around the pool, the vast majority will be immensely stressed at being forced into water- enough so that some die of shock after being given a simple bath. Also, rabbits have extremely fine, dense fur that will take a very long time to dry out on its own. This means that, once the rabbit is wet, it must be dried off as soon as possible. The catch here is that they are also extremely sensitive to heat, and a hot blow-dryer may be enough to cause serious damage.

Having said all that, it may be necessary to bathe your bunny under certain conditions. Soft stools (probably caused by improper diet) can cause cecotropes (or "night pellets") to cling and cake up around the rabbit's anus. Beyond being disgusting, and very uncomfortable for the rabbit, this creates a perfect environment for parasites. If your rabbit suffers from "poopy butt syndrome", your first step should be to attempt to brush out the clumps. Don't try to cut them away unless you are absolutely certain you can do so without cutting the skin, as rabbits' skin is incredibly thin, and even a small cut can tear wider and result in massive bleeding. If this doesn't work, you may need to bathe the rabbit.

In a sink or bathtub, lay down a towel, and fill with lukewarm (not hot) water to a depth of a couple inches. Remember, you do not want to immerse the rabbit! Add rabbit shampoo to the water- about a teaspoon should do it. It is very important that you use only shampoo noted as safe for rabbits- human or dog shampoo may cause serious damage to the rabbit's skin. Once you have lathery water, you can gently lower the rabbit into the water to immerse the problem area. Gently massage the clumps and mats until the area is clean- for severe cases, you may need to change the water before completing. When you are satisfied the area is clean, gently towel off the bunny. The fur is dense and fine enough that it is still too wet for the rabbit's health, so you'll need to blow-dry it the rest of the way. This is probably the most dangerous portion of the whole process, as rabbits are extremely susceptible to heat. Use only the "warm" setting on the blow dryer, and keep a hand on the area being dried so you can feel exactly how hot the air is to the rabbit.

Throughout this whole process, it is important that you monitor your rabbit closely. Stress isn't just unpleasant for rabbits, it can easily kill them. If your rabbit seems to be panicking or struggles violently, stop the process immediately. Give it a day to calm down, and try again later. If this is a process you undertake regularly, the rabbit will eventually grow accustomed to it- but until then, you must respect your rabbit's feelings, or risk having a dead rabbit.

Following these guidelines should get you through this sensitive process with a minimum of risk and hardship. If you are ever uncertain as to how to proceed, contact a local veterinarian before taking any chances. Your rabbit will thank you, as will rabbit lovers everywhere.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Owning a pet rabbit can be great fun. They are a very cute and loveable animal. But you need to understand exactly how to feed and care for your pet in the right manner to prevent sickness and disease form becoming a problem. One of the biggest considerations is what type of rabbit food to give to them.

Rabbits are naturally herbivores, this means that they only consume plants, so do not give them any scraps of meat from the kitchen table, save that for your pet dog. Most bunnies would enjoy eating herbs, grass, seeds, and vegetables. It is also possible to provide them with special rabbit pellets designed to ensure they have the maximum nutrition possible, if this is an option you are going to undertake then make sure the pellets you choose are correct for the age of your rabbit.

Understand that just like us humans, each rabbit with have its own particular likes and dislikes. For example, one individual may have a soft spot for carrots whereas another may prefer munching on lettuce leaves. If you are to give them an assortment of vegetables then it would be better to choose organic varieties rather than those that have been coated with high amounts of pesticides. A rabbit is not going to care over how its food looks; it is the taste and nutrition which is important.

You should avoid giving any food that is overly watery or sugary as this can have a negative impact on their digestive system. If you notice that your pet is not so inclined to eat the foods you are providing then change their diet.

It is also important that the rabbit can consume foods that need chewing. This helps them to maintain a healthy oral cavity and prevent gum infections and related diseases.

Friday, July 23, 2010

If you're a baby rabbit that has no access to his mother, you may be wondering "What do eat baby rabbits?". It's a good question, because the digestive system of rabbits can be very difficult at first.

Rabbit milk is the milk of all mammals and caloric can be difficult to replicate. The best milk replacer, you are Kitten milk replacer (KMR), which can be purchased at pet shops, and even your local supermarket. However, the milk is not as caloric as rabbit, it is therefore a good idea is to add a tablespoon of cream on each square. This is mixed well and bring the calories to a level that rabbits need.

You have to feed the baby rabbits twice a day. I suggest orally with a pipette or syringe. oral syringe works best, because one can measure how much you give. You can find in any pharmacy.

In addition to the kitten milk replacement, I recommend adding acidophilus on the mixture. Acidophilus comes in capsule form and can be found in a health shop or pharmacy. Acidophilus is the generic term for a group of probiotics, which can greatly help the process of digestion.

How much should you feed the rabbits?

Here are some guidelines for the daily diet, you should use for a 5-6 rabbit book

As a newborn, you start with 5 cc of KMR and a half capsule of acidophilus.A blow to the week 10-15 DC KMR and half a capsule of acidophilus2 weeks 25-30 DC KMR and a capsule full of acidophilus Move3 weeks and stay until weaned on well with a full 30 DC KMR capsulte acidophilus.

If you raise a pet rabbit, it is important to understand what is going on, to take care of these furry creatures

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Baby rabbit care is basically a simple task because the mothers of these animals originally take over with regards to the actual nursing. The only preparation that a rabbit owner needs to take care of comes with the preparation of the litter, the nest, and keeping the temperature suitable for the baby. There is not much problem with food though most owners think that mother rabbits don't feed their young because they don't see them nursing the infants after birth. The reality, however, is that the mothers only feed the babies once a day and between 12 midnight to 5 am so most owners just don't see the deed done. When it comes to baby rabbit care, other food shouldn't be introduced to the babies if the owner is not sure that they haven't been fed. One indication to know that the baby has already been fed is when its temperature is warm and has a little round belly.

Baby rabbit care also includes creating a nest comfortable for them. A simple box can be lined with hay or any soft material to cushion the babies. Using newspaper is not recommended though because the mother has a tendency of removing the lining and placing them back again so hay or wood shredding are easier to use. In baby rabbit care, the mother should already be settled on the nest 28 days after their breeding period. Once the babies are born, maintain the cleanliness of the nest by regularly replacing the linings.

Even though it is very unlikely for the mother to not feed their babies, baby rabbit care also demand the owner to feed the babies sometimes if the babies are not being nursed. The meals can be administered to the babies by using a sterile oral syringe or eye dropper. One must be careful in feeding though, because the baby may choke if the quantity is too much. Cleaning in baby rabbit care, on the other hand, should only be done only if the mother is not around to do it because babies are more comfortable if they have their own parent touching them. In cases when the mother is absent though, a cotton ball slightly moistened with warm water should be used and the strokes should start from between the front legs of the baby down to the bottom pair. Baby rabbits usually open their eyes after 10 days but if they still have it closed even after 12 days, they should be brought to the vet immediately.

Many rabbits can do amazing things. As the popularity of the rabbits also increases the demand function of the facts. There are so many things people need to know about rabbits. It was extremely difficult to compile a list that includes, like all ... I do not. The following list is a compilation of two or amazing facts about any of the rabbits that shocked me and flattened me first "when they learned or were too is not unique to share. This is the list:

Knowing that many rabbits are known for their mating behavior known. The fact is that view cultures as a symbol of fertility in rabbits. But did you know rabbits can give birth to eight times a year (this goes more impressive)!

Bunnies sweats, and do so through your feet have pads.

After mating, the female fin and enters coma like state for about fifteen seconds.

Tilt may have their rabbits back and slide back and forth to the man who induce a state of trance. What this also means that in theory it is possible to Hypnotize rabbit Thurs.

Rabbits are the only animals other than cats that are not induced ovulation cycles.

Rabbit has two cervix (the jaw drop again.)

More rabbits, which is the average, suffering from heat stroke than other animals.

These giant rabbit ears that is not just for show, not to hear the rabbit surprising. There is growing even in an audience of hundreds and hundreds hawk position of feet into the sky.

These are only eight amazing facts about rabbits. There are many, many, many more, are really interesting and unique creatures. This wonderful, if not all the facts of the movement is stuck his interest, and now give to increase your revenue shot in rabbits. This is great! It is also one of the most surprising facts about rabbits, they can easily tamed.