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Sheath Abrasion/Failure with Garda Hitch?

I recently adopted using Garda hitches with sets of rings to hang my HH Backpacker with great success. The problem that arose though is that after a couple weeks the sheath on the standard HH suspension line abraded and failed where it was pinched by the rings. Has anyone else encountered this and, if so, how have you remedied the problem?

I recently adopted using Garda hitches with sets of rings to hang my HH Backpacker with great success. The problem that arose though is that after a couple weeks the sheath on the standard HH suspension line abraded and failed where it was pinched by the rings. Has anyone else encountered this and, if so, how have you remedied the problem?

I stopped using the garda hitch on no-sheath line like Amsteel because the weaved strands were getting squashed flat. This really mostly kicked in when the hammock was hung between the same pair of trees at the same place multiple times. So when doing the garda hitch I've stuck to 3.8mm Spyderline, and have not see any indicator of failure. But then I don't (i) hang as much as I'd like to, and (ii) use the garda hitch anymore on a regular basis, so YMMV.

If I was to use it I would try to move around the place where the rope is pinched, from hang to hang.

Not so much a response to the quoted post, but to the original question. The quoted post shows pictures of what I would expect if the cover takes the load.

It is very important to "balance" the core and the cover. It is a necessity in a splice, which is not this application, but still important. In small diameter hi-tech lines like those with spectra/dyneema or vectran cores, the cover (usually) is only a cover that serves several purposes. It makes it easier to handle, it fattens it up for cleats and clutches, and provides some protection against chafe and UV. The cover in these lines is very weak and usually fairly "strechy" when compared to the spectra core.

The method of balancing the cover and the core is:
-Tie a stopper knot 6'+ beyond the length you want. Ex. If you want an 8' piece of line, tie a stopper knot at 14'+.
-Milk the cover back to the stopper knot exposing the core and then pull it tightly back to the end of the line. I do this a couple of times. Usually, the cover or core will extend beyond the other after this.
-Cut the tail ends flush where you are sure you are cutting cover and core.
-Cut to length between the stopper knot and the end you just worked. You'll find this makes some lines more stiff.

You still have the tight radius issue, but you can be sure your core is taking the load instead of the cover. If you think of a knot, it is full of small radii, which is one reason knots de-rate the rope.

Also, you could add additional covering to help reduce chafe on the original line, especially if you find you are frequently ending up on the same section of line. Like in the later or last post in the quoted thread, it appears he used 550 cord cover to hide the "secret" line.