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The gear will,,,,,,should fit in the back seat, I hope, and where i screwed up was making a minigun that shot at a rate of almost a dollar a second. lol Making it unaffordable to shoot. lol No, I have not played in almost 6 months. I plan to very soon when I recoop some moneys. But I would need to stop spending money on the car, but since I am scheduled for the end of the month to have the body work done i dont thing that is going to happen.

Start a thread on the bus man!

46mm? Thats going to be fun.

I plan to paint it in the next month or so if I can sell my purple mag. I am scheduled to have the body work done by a local guy at the end of july. It will be the same as it is now, white with the same black stripes. I also plan to order a DIP kit so I can change color with a days work and if I dont like it just peel it off. These look fun and wont damage the paint.http://www.dipyourcar.com/shop/catal...se?shop_param=

Now for todays car work I installed new rotors to match the rear ones. These were the ones I thought did not fit but as it turns out they do.

Ok,,,,,, so I am starting to want to beat some ass at Performance options. Lazy ass hacks! More missing little parts in the brake system. I had major issues with the rear brakes that cut a groove in my rear rotor and required me to get new ones. The problem turned out to be, not the caliper that was sticking, but the clips that hold and center the pads were missing. This allowed the pad to set crooked when not braking and allowed the pad to vibrate.

Here is the damage, you can clearly see the groove that was cut by the leading edge of the pad as it sat crooked with the upper edge making contact as you drive down the road. They swore it was something got in between the pad and rotor. I swore it was the missing clips and they told me they were not really necessary. I installed new clips and problem solved.

Now I Put these new rotors on the front and drive it less than 10 miles and the rotor is howling around corners. So i take it all apart and discover missing retaining clips on the front pads,,,,Again! Ant this is the damage. Same as the rear!!!!!!!

You may ask why the old rotors did not do this and I suspect it was due to the smooth old rotor surface allowing a smooth contact and not starting the lathing process. The new rotors with there brushed surface did not allow for smooth contact thus starting the lathing action.

Here is a better shot of what I mean by the leading edge cutting into the rotor because it is allowed to set crooked without the clips.

See the how the edge matches up tho the groove
And why it is a thin 1/2" wide line.

Wow. Seems like you got taken pretty bad by those guys. I hate people like that, giving all mechanics a bad name by being a hack. Leaving people like me to clean up the mess.

It makes a guy wonder sometimes if it is just the complexity of vehicles these days or if they just get in a hurry. I suspect its both because I am really good with mechanics and still find myself taking something back apart because I forgot that pointless little part.

But that is exactly why i paid for a professional job so I dont have to worry about things like this.

It makes a guy wonder sometimes if it is just the complexity of vehicles these days or if they just get in a hurry. I suspect its both because I am really good with mechanics and still find myself taking something back apart because I forgot that pointless little part.

But that is exactly why i paid for a professional job so I dont have to worry about things like this.

I got the new hardware set with clips and problem fixed.

It's because nobody is going to take care of your car as good as you would. Mechanics don't worry about the little details because they need to crank out the work in a speedy fashion.

No BAD mechanics don't worry about little details. Good mechanics do it right and fast the first time.

Remember is i screw up you have just as good a chance killing me in a wreck as anyone else. So I just do it right once your car or mine.

Know that all to well. I still have issues with a braking system on one of the trucks, I learned the hard way after a local guy did the brakes. Long story short, brakes fail, truck went smashing through a parked car and a fence.

A update on the exhaust system. It is falling off and according to the shop I took it to it was not run properly. The pipe is hitting the bottom of the car and the axle is hitting the pipe. So something else not done right the first time.

A update on the exhaust system. It is falling off and according to the shop I took it to it was not run properly. The pipe is hitting the bottom of the car and the axle is hitting the pipe. So something else not done right the first time.

Do you have an attourney? You really need to talk to him and see if you have a case against that original shop... Put them out of their misery and do a few thousand people a favor...

I also went to a rear end shop to see about doing something about the wheel hop I am getting. I was told, as I suspected, that it is axle wrap and partially caused by improper pinion angle. So another $400 in adjustable rear links so I can adjust the pinion angle that they got wrong when they mounted the new brackets on the axle.

Much of there work is still there but just as much has had to be re-done. I have looked into small claims and it would cost me over $600 just to file against them and an attorney friend said I had a 50/50 shot at winning. He also said I could not sue for more than 2 grand and expect the judge to take me seriously. Also he said that people like me dont always get a fair shake as people who build there own cars are sometimes looked down on by judges for some reason as non conformist.

So its not worth the major effort for a 50/50 shot at 2 grand.

I could save money and build a site showing them for who they are.

Funny part is they are the most well known classic Toyota tuner shop in the country With many magazine cover car builds. So I can have a huge effect on there reputation.

I also went to a rear end shop to see about doing something about the wheel hop I am getting. I was told, as I suspected, that it is axle wrap and partially caused by improper pinion angle. So another $400 in adjustable rear links so I can adjust the pinion angle that they got wrong when they mounted the new brackets on the axle.

Much of there work is still there but just as much has had to be re-done. I have looked into small claims and it would cost me over $600 just to file against them and an attorney friend said I had a 50/50 shot at winning. He also said I could not sue for more than 2 grand and expect the judge to take me seriously. Also he said that people like me dont always get a fair shake as people who build there own cars are sometimes looked down on by judges for some reason as non conformist.

So its not worth the major effort for a 50/50 shot at 2 grand.

I could save money and build a site showing them for who they are.

Funny part is they are the most well known classic Toyota tuner shop in the country With many magazine cover car builds. So I can have a huge effect on there reputation.

How small claims??? most of the work if you had a shop do it all would cost WELL OVER 2 grand... that's gotta qualify for higher than small claims court...

I also went to a rear end shop to see about doing something about the wheel hop I am getting. I was told, as I suspected, that it is axle wrap and partially caused by improper pinion angle. So another $400 in adjustable rear links so I can adjust the pinion angle that they got wrong when they mounted the new brackets on the axle.

Much of there work is still there but just as much has had to be re-done. I have looked into small claims and it would cost me over $600 just to file against them and an attorney friend said I had a 50/50 shot at winning. He also said I could not sue for more than 2 grand and expect the judge to take me seriously. Also he said that people like me dont always get a fair shake as people who build there own cars are sometimes looked down on by judges for some reason as non conformist.

So its not worth the major effort for a 50/50 shot at 2 grand.

I could save money and build a site showing them for who they are.

Funny part is they are the most well known classic Toyota tuner shop in the country With many magazine cover car builds. So I can have a huge effect on there reputation.

I've seen people post songs on Youtube/Facebook describing their poor customer service and ended up with results. You could do something similar and maybe get their attention. Good luck!

So today I made a ABV plate from some eighth inch flat stock. I also made a gasket from universal material. My neighbors must love the sound of a grinder at 8am. This should allow me to get the extra 4-6 psi my pulley set provides and takes about 15 minutes to install. It however requires the charger to run allot more for normal driving. Hell of a difference with another 40-50 hp lol. Really fun to rip the first two gears up to 65mph.

I also pressure washed the fender wells and some of the under body. They need some touch up from an oil based rattle can. Flat black will do. Once it dries some I will tape off what does not want to be painted, then go at it.

So I may be really bad at body work but I wont get any better not doing it so here we go.

First step is to remove those old stripes. Now this is not hard with a eraser wheel and a drill. But I never have the right tool handy so I looked around and came up with this instead. It worked perfectly and did not damage the paint at all.

Soft indoor roler blade wheel and a screw with washers.

Once the wheel is used up

After removal it looks like new paint where they were.

The start of the work. I dont want to here about bondo being crap as the door is rusted out and needs replaced and these are the only dents on the car getting bondo.

I hate body work! I can do drywall so well that I almost dont need to sand. Did it for years. This bondo on the other hand is no fun at all:evil: Maybe I should get better tools, haha. I will get it but it is a learning process.

Edit: yep I got out my 12 inch drywall trowl and I wont be using those plastic ones in open areas again. Now that I am treating it the same as drywall and using the same tools it is quite easy!

What tools I was using before. I gues they are good for contured areas but can make the larger flat areas hard.

After it just was not looking the way i wanted I got out my drywall tools and things got MUCH easier. These are the tools I am using plus some 80 grit through 330 grit sand paper.

First coat and sand.

Second coat and sand.

Third coat and on,,,,,and on,,,,,and on.

And then you get to this point and you need to prim it to relief/block sand.

The whole car is getting done*flat white with original stripes.. Once its ready to shoot it goes for a fresh coat of primer then paint. For now the primer is only for level sanding with 300 grit and a wooden block. Once it is level sanded I will hit it with a thin coat I can sand off once it is ready to take in.

Ok, this is a major change but i can simply peel it off and do something else if it looks bad. Since the body work is almost done and I don't have time to role out a paint job I am going to coat my car in a type of rubber.
It is removable and will last up to a year if properly maintained. A friend has the spray gun so all I needed was three gallons of the dip at a cost of $180 and some masking stuff.

So just for fun I am doing a fire belly orange with black stripes. Thats right, dukes orange with black racing stripes. Should be bright. Lol. Then I will decide if I want to do something different the next time. More than likely.http://www.dipyourcar.com./home.php

The last of the body work is almost done and I have to shoot a non porous paint that the dip will peel off of, probably some oil based rattle can and fade the edges. I doubt it will come off of a primed surface.

Holes patched in the back. I still need to block sand it but it is looking good.

The little bump in the hood was straightened with a hammer as much as possible and the rest is some filler.

Antenna hole still a question mark as I may just put tape over them and dip over the tape.

I ordered some body sealer to reseal the drip edge. It will be here this week.

Soooooo, the dip did not work so well with an older car and it did not last 24 hours on it. It was also very hard to remove all traces. Not recommended. Now I will just paint it slowly white with the original black stripes.

Ok the first Auto cross and I have a report on the suspension. It is in need of fine tuning but the performance was right where I was hoping. Unfortunately my performance was not. haha. I have a lot of learning in this short bastard. I was expecting it to be a little easier to handle but it is really throttle happy.

The track was not fast today and 55mph was the best I got. Several switch backs and not one real straight. It will run with the track cars once I get it figured out and add the extra boost. I was only 4 seconds off with another 40+ hp to add. O and I really need more practice. I almost suck. lol. I got spoiled with cars that made me a good driver haha. That 4 seconds was with me loosing it once. Others thought I would be able to shave at least 5 seconds once I learn to drive, and that was without the extra boost and 91 pump gas.

I need to work on scanning ahead and not looking right in front of me, also I need to work on my snap throttling, my foot loves it but my times dont. I am used to an AWD car that you can floor without consequences. Also I would describe my driving style as a "smash driver" and that is what I need work on the most, smooth instead of brutal, lol.

The 275# front springs while great for DD and rally are to soft for the weight up front on an auto cross. By maybe 25 lbs. Not much though. I think i can lift the front slightly and compensate for this. I will try 4mm lift. Like I say it only has slight under steer when hard turning and heavy braking at the slower speeds. I think I can use the throttle to correct for it, once i get used to it. I also need SS brake lines. The brakes are great but there is some slight sponginess when heavy braking. The tire size is good up front but I think something 1.5" wider in the back would be ideal. Also since I geared it for road use it is worthless for todays really close track. If I was to autox it regularly I would get a 6 speed. But I am using these events to get things adjusted. It is fun but to hard on the car. It is also to tempting to drift it. No need for any E-brake or clutching here, haha. Probably going to run the BOV plate for the extra boost and the 100 octane from laguna seca next time around..

I am now starting to compile the parts to do a Megasquirt standalone system with 440 cc injectors and Methane/watter injection.

I ordered a progressive injection system today that runs on the MAP sensor signal. It is fully adjustable and upgradable to a fail safe system with ECU interface in the future, however it is not really necessary to interface it unless you are going for big numbers so the stage 2 systems I got is more than adequate for under 350 bhp.

The standalone will be installed later and will cost almost $1000 just to buy the DIY components, then install and tuning so the ECU will take a while as I wont start it until i have it all. But for now I can get my octane rating up to 100+ from 91 with ease with the meth/watter injection. Since the factory ECU was JDM it was programed for 100 oct, plus the added benefits of heat absorption this will make the engine run WAY smoother under hard driving. I will wire it in with my air/water interceder, so when I turn on its pump the meth injection system will arm.