Some of the recent developments in apparel technology

Nowadays, most of the garments manufacturers are acknowledging the role of applying new technologies to help them remain ahead in internationally competitive markets. As a result, technology suppliers are striving hard to innovate and develop new technologies keeping with demands of the industry. All these technological developments have helped to create an inevitable shift in the apparel industry. In a continuous endeavour to provide the industry meaningful content in accordance with the current trends, in the next few pages we have highlighted some of the latest technologies developments in the apparel industry.

Monna Lisa extends its range with new digital textile printer

Reliability, quality and sustainability have always been the demands of a sector that Monna Lisa has satisfied to the point of becoming a reference point in industrial textile printing. Today, the market demands even more. It wants versatility that allows it to quickly meet any order, without complex operations and with minimal additional costs. Epson and its subsidiaries Fratelli Robustelli and For.Tex developed Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32 8+8,whichallows the fabric range that can be printed quickly and efficiently to be expanded, thanks to the possibility of loading two different sets of inks in the same machine.

The printer’s new features result in quality and productivity thanks to the 32 Precision Core heads is configured with the 8+8 external rack that permits the double ink set, eight Genesta acid inks and eight Genesta reactive inks to be loaded. The software driven machine makes it possible to switch from using reactive inks for cellulose fibres, such as cotton, viscose or linen, to using acid inks required for protein fibres as silk and wood, and polyamide synthetic fibres, with unprecedented ease and speed. The advantages are obvious: Speed and immediate productivity with a compact machine and minimum costs.

Epson Europe DTF Sales and Marketing Director EMEAR and Americas, Giovanni Pizzamiglio explained,” In digital textile printing, the winner today is the company which offers low investment and maximum versatility. Combining two different types of inks on the same machine enables to obtain better performance and the ability to respond immediately to customer requests. It is like having two machines in one needing less space and investment.”

Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32 8+8 – Key Points:

Configuration 8+8: The external rack can be loaded with the double ink set, acid inks and eight reactive inks

Maximum versatility: Being able to load different types of inks makes it possible to print on fabrics of different types without having to change the set of inks

Productivity: Up to 402 m2/h thanks to the Precision Core Micro TFP printhead.

Number of colours: Up to eight for typology

Genesta inks: The water-based inks developed by Epson in collaboration with FOR.TEX are created to allow precision and fastness in fabric prints. Genesta inks – acid, reactive, disperse and pigment – enable to obtain the highest quality on any type of fabric. Monna Lisa Evo Tre is one of the leading model of the Monna Lisa series designed for an increasingly dynamic market, which requires the ability to respond quickly to the different needs of the market, both in terms of quality and productivity. Monna Lisa Evo Tre, the first industrial digital textile printer to integrate Epson Precision Core’s innovative proprietary printing technology, is the right choice for all printers operating in the field of industrial digital printing on fabric and wishing to combine quality and high quality productivity.

TUKAcut machines for lingerie, denim and universal fabric cutting are available in custom widths and heights. These machines are designed to give the ultimate performance at the lowest running cost. Though cutting productivity is at least 20 per cent higher than other models on the market while the energy cost is 50 to 70 per cent lower, which is a great benefit for users in countries where energy cost is a major consideration. Other features include the highest productivity per hour cutting denim with zero buffers, as well as a cut path optimiser that results in 2.2 per cent-3.6 per cent fabric savings compared to other cutting machines and aids productivity. The eco-power vacuum system guarantees considerable power savings at only 5.5kw, the lowest in comparable industry cutting machines.

The new fabric cutting machines were first installed in Lahore, Pakistan at Combined Fabrics, the largest supplier of knit garments to Levi’s. Before installation, the cutting room had 90 people cutting 50,000 units in a day. Sheikh Tariq Mehmood, Director of Combined Fabrics, explains that the company was already, “very happy users of TUKAcad, TUKA3D, and SMARTmark. Tukatech demonstrated their cutting room expertise by helping us engineer another vendor’s cutting system before we even considered adopting TUKAcut for automatic fabric cutting.”

handling, spreading, cutting and bundling. On the first day of installation, 14 people were able to cut the same number of units (50,000) and within weeks the same configuration increased productivity to between 65,000 and 75,000 units per day.

Mehmood continues, “My suggestion is to listen to Tukatech’s expertise. Our expectations for the TUKAcut system were far exceeded, but they never surprised us with extra hidden expenses.” Tukatech is known throughout the apparel industry for their personal customer service and transparent value models.

Ram Sareen, Founder of Tukatech, explains that he chose to partner with Italian fabric cutting machine manufacturer, FK Group, to build the TUKAcut systems. Tukatech was the first partner of FK Group to take FK cutting machines out of Italy in 1995. Many of the machines installed in the US, Mexico, Canada, and India at that time were still running and producing high quality cuts. According to Sareen, the partnership with FK Group allows Tukatech to offer garment manufacturers reliable fabric cutting machines at competitive prices. “Similar to engineering companies like AMG partnering with Daimler- Benz to offer an amazingly high-performance vehicle to drivers who appreciate the engineering, we offer just the same with our partnership with FK Group,” comments Sareen.

Gerber Technology CutWorks® modular software system

Gerber Technology has been helping companies around the world develop, manufacture and take their products to market smarter, faster and more efficiently. The company provides integrated software and hardware solutions to more than 78,000 customers in the aerospace, construction, furniture, fashion & apparel, transportation, technical textiles, packaging, wind energy and sign & graphics industries, including over 100 Fortune 500 companies in 130 countries. Drawing on a rich history of innovation, Gerber Technology’s leading-edge systems help customers reach their optimum by maximising productivity and minimising errors and waste. One of its latest innovations, CUTworks CutWorks® is a modular software system that offers a complete design, nesting and cutting solution for flexible materials.

Improve cut part quality: Fine-tune the CAD data you send to your cutter to further improve cut part quality. Automatically remove extra vertices. Control both the direction of cut and the start point to prevent material from moving during cutting.

Reduce cutting times: With CutWorks and the ToolPath module, you have full control over the exact order of cutting of both the data within individual parts and the order of parts within the complete nest. Reduce cutting times by following a more efficient cut path.

Use on any system: CutWorks cut file preparation software works on Gerber cutting systems and virtually any other automated cutting system on the market to dramatically improve cut part quality.

Vidya guarantees 3D realism

The fashion industry is undergoing a technological revolution – more and more garments are being digitally designed with 3D software. A realistic representation of color and materials makes it possible to significantly reduce the number of physical samples – and this in turn saves time and reduces costs. At the Munich Fabric Start, Assyst and its partner companies Color Digital, Epson, X-Rite Pantone and Peter Buedel Accessories showed how Vidya attains the next level of 3D simulation through the integration of digitalized materials.

Uniform color values from 3D design to the finished product, realistic material properties right from the outset – several experts have joined forces to develop a guarantee of authenticity for digitalized materials: Under the name “Digital Textile Connection,” Assyst, Color Digital, Epson, X-Rite Pantone and Peter Buedel Accessoires showcased for the first time the synergies their collaboration will create for the apparel industry at the Munich Fabric Start – and how they are jointly taking 3D simulations up to the next level of realistic imagery.

Drag & drop fabrics from the cloud into Vidya

A cloud-based solution for digitalized materials was developed to achieve this ultrarealistic imagery. The materials can be integrated easily and quickly into the Vidya 3D design process using the “drag and drop” procedure. All the parameters of the fabric, such as the degree of stiffness, are taken into account, enabling the fabric to be processed and evaluated realistically onscreen.

Vidya is becoming more and more realistic Apparel companies regard 3D as a key technology for advancing their digitalization – because only a product that is available in digital form can be integrated into further process steps. At the Munich Fabric Start, Assyst presented how the 3D simulation software Vidya is used for collection development and beyond. “Together with our partners in the digital textile connection, we have showcased how perfect colour and material representations are bringing 3D ever closer to reality,” said Dr. Andreas Seidl, CEO of the Human Solutions Group. “The more realistic the simulations become, the more possibilities are created for using 3D data beyond product development – in sales and marketing, for instance. We have shown what 3D can do with Vidya today and where the journey is heading.”

Zund presents G3 Cutting system

Zünd Systemtechnik AG is a leading manufacturer of multifunctional digital cutting systems used in different industries, including graphics, packaging, leather, fabrics, technical textiles, and composites. Focused on continuous innovation and superior technology, Zünd offers advanced products and services to meet its customers’ needs.

Uncompromising performance & precision

Whatever textiles or patterns made of paper, cardboard or plastic you may need to cut, its multi-functional cutting systems help you do it faster and more efficiently. Zünd can not only offer precise, productive and durable cutters but can also supply you with just the right cutting technology for your specific application. Its driven rotary tools, for example, are designed to cut a variety of textile materials with flawless precision. Every Zünd Cutter includes standardized interface options. With industry-specific solutions offered by its partners, you can easily expand your cutting system for custom applications.

Modular design concept

Zünd‘s modular tool and material-handling systems make it easy to tailor your G3 cutting system to specific cutting needs. Define your production requirements, and select the building blocks that will make up the perfect configuration for you. Additions and upgrades are possible any time.

Return on investment

Innovative technology and superior manufacturing are guaranteed to result in reliability and low maintenance costs. Because of their modular design, G3 cutting systems can adapt to ever-changing needs and retain their value exceptionally well.

Enterprise material management solutions by Threadsol

The world has transformed, trades have advanced. With the boom of the new era, apparel business all over the world has witnessed majestic shifts. To manage this change, apparel manufacturers need to accelerate their operations and re-evaluate the legacy of manufacturing practices. The dynamic technologies being introduced each day is a sign of constant development. ThreadSol – the pioneer in enterprise material management for the sewn products industry- takes pride in constantly challenging the present and being part of such a revolution. ThreadSol’s outlook is to introduce technologically driven products to drive manufacturing by targeting material cost and differentiate from the extremely competitive environment.

With its innovative solutions- intelloBuy, intelloCut, and intello3C, ThreadSol offers an entire range of enterprise material management solutions, which can help apparel manufacturers and brands to boost their topline and bottom-line, in an industry that is heavily dependent upon economic priorities. intelloCut is a material planning and optimization solution for the sewn products industry. The flagship solution of ThreadSol has been successfully deployed in 150+ factories worldwide, which plan 1.5 bn pieces per year.

With the help of its advanced algorithms, IntelloCut gives the most optimized cutplan and lay plan, in just one click. The cloud computing structure helps to access the solution from any point. It also offers a feedback system which works like GPS: Any variations on floor and the plan can be changed with a single refresh button. With over 150 features, intelloCut is a product ahead of its time and truly defines the new age technology.

In a constant effort to improve, ThreadSol has introduced intelloGreen: A tablet application, which replaces on-floor printed lay slips. The application is based on cloud computing and takes data from intelloCut, transforming business from traditional to environment friendly.

The advanced reporting structure of IntelloCut provides an edge to the manufacturers to get complete control over factory’s practices through IntelloMobile: World’s first fabric utilization reporting app. IntelloMobile provides 100 per cent real-time traceability of fabric, with all reports on mobile phone.

intelloBuy is a material estimation solution for the sewn products industry. It is the second product by ThreadSol, taking the enterprise material management model of the company to the next level.

IntelloBuy gives accurate buying consumption for a particular style which saves millions of dollars of material cost at the buying stage, every day, for manufacturers worldwide. IntelloBuy accesses factory historical database and allows the user to add exact wastage from factory floor to generate the most accurate fabric requirement. This can save up to 10 per cent fabric cost, ultimately boosting profit. Through the advanced reporting offered by intelloBuy, one can get details of the consumption calculation for different style/ order, vendor details for width/ shrinkage, factory process loss, buyer’s details of size-wise order break-up etc.

intello3C is an AI based cost negotiation platform. Intello3C aims to reduce sourcing cost and costing lead time for apparel brands. The current market scenario is very challenging. The lead time and retail prices are constantly decreasing whereas the cost of sourcing continues to increase.

Currently vendor cost negotiations are based on merchant experience. There is little focus on scientifically arrived accurate internal cost benchmarks for various cost components like fabric, CM, trims etc. for each style that is costed. This inflates the sourcing cost. Moreover, most vendor cost negotiations are carried out over email and excel that is time consuming and adds to the ever shrinking lead time.

With fast fashion, the challenges with vendor cost negotiations are going to multiply. This is already resulting in suboptimal costing. Intello3C uses advance technology like Artificial Intelligence, Big Data, Mobility and Agile Analytics to solve this problem. Intello3C creates scientific and fact based benchmarks for all the cost components. intello3C uses AI that can automatically negotiate the best cost with the vendors without needing any manual inputs from the merchant teams. intello3C results in 3-5 per cent decrease in sourcing cost and 30 per cent decrease in costing lead time.

Juki, Japan is committed to customers satisfaction. In an effort to understand the needs of the customer, Juki manufactures the entire range of sewing machines for woven and knit fabrics, leather and heavy duty machines and automatics. Juki is present all over the world and supports its customers through top quality products, parts and service. IIGM is among the top three agents and distributor, across the world.

World first computer-controlled vertically and horizontally-driven feed mechanism

Remaining thread at the end of sewing reduced to 3 mm

A both-blade driven rotary knife system is adopted

Sewing machine management utilizing “IoT” (Internet of Things)

USB port is provided as standard

Dürkopp releases QONDAC network solutions for sales

The sales launch of QONDAC, the IoT networks platform for textile machines from Dürkopp Adler was conducted recently. The biggest European manufacturer of industrial sewing technology connects entire plants with own QONDAC high-tech servers, even crossing country borders. By real time analysis of the gathered machine data, the availability of machines, the production performance and the quality of the resulting product can be significantly increased.

Customers especially liked the possibility to connect not only Dürkopp Adler machines but also all other machines in a factory by sensor technology or open access interfaces to enable central monitoring of the whole production process. Industrial sewing machines like the M-TYPE PREMIUM lockstitch machine or the brand new pocket welting sewing unit class 756 can be adjusted centrally from the server, and maintenance processes can be digitized based on real usage.

Connections to ERP systems are developed, too. Perfectly combining to that, Dürkopp Adler has also launched the new smart touch control panel QONDAC Commander CSP. The panel for M-TYPE PREMIUM machines can show on-demand HD videos and HTML pages and enables new communication options to the central QONDAC server. This innovation will be introduced step-by-step to other machines of the Shang Gong Group, Mother Company of Dürkopp Adler AG.

Direct drive lockstitch machine (All-in-one head) by Zoje

ZOJE , founded in 1994, registered capital of 567.8 mn yuan, the total assets of 2.6 bn yuan, has become a leading manufacturer of industrial sewing machine, with assembly, coating, casting, machine processing automation equipment in the world advanced, with the industry “Provincial Research Institute” and the two R&D center, R&D institutions in Europe. The internationalization of technology, advanced equipment, condensed into the superior quality, the formation of industrial clusters unique, provide a good platform for the development of many sewing equipment enterprises, a high degree of concentration, high technology content of products, high brand awareness and reputation, the global industrial sewing machine comprehensive strength leading production base. Annual production capacity of 1 mn units. One of the latest innovations by the company is Direct Drive lockstitch machine (All-in-one head) (ZJ9513 series).

Vetron direct-drive lockstitch machine with triple transport

The Vetron brand stands for high-value products developed for processing textiles and leather, multiple awarded innovative solutions focused on the customer´s needs, and the German art of engineering connected with professional service. Products are made from selected components throughout Europe and Asia offering a superior price performance ratio and innovative functionality, setting new standards of process security through the use of high technology. One of its latest offerings Vetron 5000 series is a directdrive 1-needle lockstitch sewing machine with triple transport.

Through the consistent use of state-of-the-art electronic control it became possible to make all machine settings programmable into memory and thus recallable. This allows the process parameters to be free from operators influence and identical every time the programme is recalled. The innovative dynamic machine parameter, based on the actual speed and the permanent measurement of the material thickness, open new possibilities of production quality, process security and the reduction of cycle times.

Industrial sewing machine attachment by Sakho

Sakho Enterprises is providing sales & service of Korean make Sakho Brand special type industrial sewing machine & attachments. The company provides best machineries and service to garment industries with its highly dedicated technical & commercial. Its automated garment machineries & attachments are well known across the world for its low cost, best quality, durability, outstanding performance & services.

Application: This robot mechanism device is used to feed the buttons to the button clamp on the button sewing machine. Operator doesn’t need to align the holes of button. With its increased feeding speed, the sewing machine head speed can be used upto maximum, which results in higher productivity. Using this device a beginner shows double productivity than skilled operators.

Represents based on shirts production under standard conditions

That 25mm and above Dia are depend on its thickness and convexity

Special button machine work clamp is provided along with BK- 17 as per machine make

Transfer pin of different sizes provided with BK-17 as standard accessories.

Tajima presents latest embroidery solutions

Tajima has launched new technology in various concepts, which were not possible in the past. Now the machines are very user friendly and can do embroideries with various kinds of threads starting from 7 tex to 700 denier in one setting and 710 denier to 900 denier in another setting in one given frame through the needles. If one has to use thicker thread or cord then one can use 6 kind of multi cords in the same design.

Other than this our ESQ called as easy sequin devise can do sequin much comfortably now without any hassles in settings. With different devise and settings one can use sequin from size 2mm to 22 mm both centric and essentric, while 2mm essentric is not possible. It has also launched glass seed beads devise which can fix the glass beads on size 2mm and 2.5mm at approx 800 beads per minute. Now most of the hand work of beads is now possible on machines which are fixed on the garments with lock stitch which gives firm fixing on the garments.

Now one can use any kind of threads twisted or non-twisted, 4 COL sequin or 2 COL sequin 2 colour glass beads, or 4 colour glass beads in 2 sizes, or original 5mm sworosky and glass beads, 6 colour multi cord. All the above can be fixed in one garment in one given time depending upon the attachments you opt for while placing the order.

Cheran’s Digital’s latest Oval Textile Printing Machine (Pigment)

Cheran Machines India Pvt. Ltd., an ISO 9001 – 2000 certified company and a pioneer in garment/ textile printing machineries is located in Coimbatore, Manchester of South India. With a strong commitment for quality, it has built strong brands recognised for innovation, user friendly features and superior performance for the past 14 years. Oval Textile Printing Machine (Pigment) is one of the latest machines by the company. Given are some of its features:

ZSK Compact single head bridge style machine

It has the same open back frame design as multihead machines and is the most industrious commercial single-head on the market. With the bridge-type build style on a single head, the ZSK offers the most versatile frame – providing a sturdy and virtually vibration-free piece of equipment. This frame style is the most preferred model for customers who are using the equipment as a production machine.

The Sprint 7 is a 18-needle single head class 4 style (bridge style) embroidery machine. This machine can adapt speciality devices (such as sequins or cording) without changing any electronic board components or altering any electrical component – ZSK produces the most compatible & versatile machine in the world. This machine is recommended for start-up embroidery businesses as well as any size embroidery shop. Not only does this equipment provides embroidery decoration, but also allows for a wide range of embellishment options. Use it as embroidery only or add unique options to diversify your business.

Tubular Arm – The ZSK has the smallest tubular arm in the industry worldwide! The curved design now allows for the narrowest of textiles to be embroidered and those hard to embroider areas such as shirt pockets, fronts of shoes, baby items, shirt cuffs, etc. In addition to the size, the arm is also longer to fit a wider range of materials as well – it has been extended 20 mm for narrow textiles.

Coloreel to launch their revolutionary thread coloring unit

The advanced fair Avantex has a good geographic location, in the middle of Europe, which makes it easy for all markets and prospective customers to come. On the 17-20th September, Coloreel will launch their revolutionary thread coloring unit for industrial embroidery machines at Avantex, the fair where high technology meets fashion industry. At stand Z428, the customers will be able to meet with both Coloreel and the European distributors.

Barbara Kuntzel, Avantex & Texworld Paris Show Director said that, ”It feels great that an innovative company like Coloreel chooses to do the product launch of their thread coloring unit for industrial embroidery machines at Avantex.

The Coloreel technology permits highquality instant coloring of textile thread while the thread is being used in textile production. The first product to be launched based on this technology is an innovating thread colouring unit that works with any existing industrial embroidery machine. By instantly colouring a white base thread during the embroidery production, Coloreel enables complete freedom to create unique embroideries without any limitations in the use of colours.

Joakim Staberg, Founder & Innovator at Coloreel, said that, “Avantex is the right place for us to launch our product the right people are here, and we have a great history with them. We had our world premiere here in 2016 and presented the technology with great results. We then came back in 2017 to show our prototype in action and the market response was enormous. And we are now very excited to return in September 2018 for the product launch of our revolutionary thread colouring unit.” This revolutionary product that will launch 17-20th September at Avantex, the gathering of high-tech fashion, in stand Z428 and world leading companies in textile, fashion and sportswear are standing in line to use it.

Magnus Hellström, VP Sales & Marketing at Coloreel comments, “Come to Avantex and be the first to witness the beginning of our revolution of the textile industry. There will be live demonstrations of the groundbreaking thread coloring unit that will produce designs never seen before, you don’t want to miss it.”

Aura launches T-Shirt and Sweater printers

Aura Designs Ltd is the latest trendsetter in the digital textile printing technology arena. The company formed by a group of technocrats with more than two decades of wide and varied experience across textile and apparel sectors, aims to change the dynamics of the market. It is striving to bring the best hardware and software technologies together and integrating the same in its product portfolio. This has helped the company to launch state-of the-art, cutting edge products aimed at delivering higher outputs at lower costs thereby providing higher optimisation levels.

Today, the biggest challenge faced by DTG printers is the white ink itself. The white ink always causes problems for print head clogging and consistency of prints. The cost of digital white inks also makes it more expensive for the operational cost. The smaller printer available in markets does not give enough production and the bigger ones are too expensive and complicated to operate. To overcome all these issues; the company came up with “Smart Series of Tshirt Printers.” This printer is a perfect solution for printing on T-shirts / Panels with pigment inks. It works on white, light, as well as dark base.

Aura Smart T-shirt Printer combines the format of screen and digital printing; reducing printing cost and making use of white ink possible by screen. “Smart” uses a special software and sensor technology which makes the registration easy and can print multiple copies without ripping the designs again and again.

The printer has a speed of printing 80-140 T- shirts/hr and till day, more than 200 such machines have been installed worldwide. Some of its main features are:

Another major introduction by the company is Aura Grand Sweater Printer. The printer could be installed with low Investment and has low maintenance cost with no limitation of colours. Given are some of its main features: