Repeated this route twice within a couple of weeks...we got stuck trying to do Holier Than Thou on the Nuns when it was too cold in the shade so moved over to the sun. Led the first pitch again, this time did not even sling the chock stones and felt pretty comfortable with three small pieces. Helps not carrying a rack on lead on this one. The turn about to the right happens twice...between the bolt and piton and again below the chockstone in the final part of the off-width. Takes a little courage because you have no gear, but turning to face right to reach a jug hold on the arete is the last move before you can reach that first chockstone. The aid pitch is missing some fixed gear as has been well documented on several of the sites (2014). I still did not need a cheat stick at 5'11"...but it is not A0 either....had no aid gear, but basically had to make athletic step ups combined with a bit of free climbing to make it through. 60m single rap off of Excommunication is the way you want to descend for sure.

I love the first pitch but then anyone who knows my style knows I would. It is not that run out like many allude to. The crux is protected by two fixed pieces albeit the first one is a spinner, 2nd one a piton. I soloed up to the bolt. After clipping the piton, I placed a C4#.3 and .4 into the same chockstone. Then slung two more chockstones. They were evenly spaced and protected the pitch well I felt. The chimney portion is easy at the top. I used a .3/.4 offset to backup the slung chockstone for the belay. Great pitch, super setting. Trick (and reference for me next time) is to face left through that crux (bolt), and flip back right when you get the jug.