I am no model building expert but I would always prime before painting just about anything from models to your bedroom wall. Primer help hide little imperfections and with give the paint something to bite into. I would just put a couple light coats first coat mist then just enough to cover and not hide any detail. As far as brands I've not painted a model in a long (which is about to change) but from what I've read Dupli-Color and PlastiKote are the best. Thats my 2 cents worth anywho.

I have an airbrush (where I dunno but I'll find it). It is a Paasche double action but I haven't used it in years but for $60+ you can beat I'll find it. Should I still primer first? I found the metalizer on ebay for 99 cents. Its exhaust color which looks a lil darker but still in the aluminum spectrum (at least on Testors lil swatches).

Well I ordered some Testors brushable Metalizer its cheaper and sounds a little easier to do. I will definately post some pix of my project. Still in it waiting for all the stuff to come and buy a few things stage but the ball is rolling. Thanks for all the input!

I have just plain ol Testors but I'll look into Metalizers and Alclad. Which of the 2 is better? Jim do you have a website? Where in Indiana are you? I live in Bedford. Your mags look badass! I want slots on the Yenko Deuce i'm gonna build I know thier not stock but slots just look sweet on a Nova. Even if I had a real Deuce I'd put slots on it. I think I've downloaded every picture of a '70 Nova on the net LOL. Thanks!

WOW that looks SWEET! I wanna make some aluminum slots would the foil work on wheels? I have other parts to but I REALLY want the wheels to look real as thats one of the biggest eye candy parts. As a buddy of mine once told me "The eye feeds first" and my eyes think that looks yummy.

How can I make aluminum parts look like thier real not just painted? I have some Testors aluminum paint but it has a metallic look not the solid color of real aluminum. Sorry if this is stupid question but I searched the web and found nothing about it. Thanks!

Well the AMT Nova came today and I can't really use it as a Deuce base. There are to many wrong parts for it to appear to be a Deuce. It has an auto tranny, bucket seats, and SS badges on front and back (duh its an SS). But all is not a loss it will be good practice to get back upto speed. It is a badass ride any way you look at it. I might try the Revell COPO and 69 SS and combo them for the right parts (sorta). Has anyone used the Flintstone bodies? They make a 70 Nova for this AMT but could it be used on a Revell?

I have looked hard for a Dixco hood tach and have had no luck with one in 1/25 scale. I can't see the one on the Firebird or GTO well enough to tell how close it is to the Dixco tach. I have thought of trying to crave one but it has gotten much past the thought yet. I'll probably end up useing a 68 Firebird or GTO tach dunno. I wouldn't mind building a Firebird or a GTO anyway. Wow after buying all these models I'll have a down payment on a real Deuce lol.

I'm planning to build a 1970 Yenko Deuce Nova from an AMT 1972 Nova SS kit and a Flintstone 1970 body. I haven't recieved the model kit yet and haven't ordered the body. I did order the Deuce decal set and I can hardly wait to see them.

I new here and thought I'd say hey. I haven't built a model since I was prolly 13 (been a day or 2). I could get any model for about $8. They seem to have gone up a bit in 30 years. I was surfing the web the other day and ran across a Yenko Deuce model on this site. I was instantly bite by the builder bug. I have always LOVED Novas and I figure the only way I'll ever have a Yenko is build the model. My first car was a 1971 Nova (Junko not Yenko) with a 307 that ran on oil lol. There is tons of interesting info here and you folks have lots of talent and awesome ideas. I look forward to learning many a nifty thing here.