Scenic drive: Pinaleño Mountains, part 2

by John Stanley - Jul. 3, 2008 03:27 PMThe Arizona Republic

The Swift Trail (Arizona 366) is paved for the first 22 miles or so as it leads up into the Pinaleño Mountains, outside Safford in southeastern Arizona. The last 13 or so aren't. But the unpaved road is generally in such good shape that you won't need a high-clearance vehicle. And you gain most of the elevation - more than a mile - on the paved section.

Be sure to pick up a Pinaleño Mountains Automobile Tour pamphlet at the Safford Ranger District Office (711 14th Ave.) or at Roper Lake State Park (5 miles south of Safford, off Arizona 191). Things to note along the unpaved way (mileages are from where the pavement ends):

Treasure Park: (0.8 mile) The road on your left leads to Treasure Park, named for a legend that Mexican bandits buried a huge stash of gold and silver in the area shortly before the Gadsden Purchase of 1853, when the U.S. bought a southern swath of Arizona and New Mexico from Mexico. Groups can reserve the primitive campground for a fee and, if it's not in use, individuals can camp there for free. Water available May through September. 928-428-4150.

Fort Grant Vista: (5.3 miles) This overlook is worth a stop. Pull off to the right and cross the road to the low masonry wall. The structures far below are part of Fort Grant, an important military post in the 1870s and 1880s. The fort later served as a staging area for soldiers off to fight in the Spanish-American War, at the end of the 19th century. The Army abandoned the post in 1905. It later served as the Fort Grant Industrial School and in 1973 became a state prison. The Galiuro Mountains stand 25 miles to the southwest. Look for Willcox and the Willcox Playa, a seasonal lake and birder paradise, 30 miles to the south.

Columbine Visitor Information Station: (6.8 miles) Drop by this cozy little visitor center, tucked into the aspens and pines at 9,500 feet, to find out about the area's history, wildlife, campgrounds and hiking trails. One room is specially designed for children, with information on animal scat and a place where they can make animal tracks in sand. Open on weekends only.

Riggs Flat Lake is near the end of the Swift Trail (Arizona 366) in the Pinaleno Mountains near Safford. The lake is a popular with anglers and campers.

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Total miles: About 425 miles, round trip, from central Phoenix. Take U.S. 60 east about 85 miles to Globe, U.S. 60 veers off to the northeast a few miles east of Globe, but stick to what is U.S. 70 and continue about 80 miles southeast to Safford. Turn south on Arizona 191 and go 7.3 miles to the Swift Trail (Arizona 366). The first 22 miles of the route are paved, the remaining 13 or so aren't. Allow plenty of time, as the road twists and turns all the way, and you'll want to make several stops on the way. Not recommended for those susceptible to carsickness. The Mt. Graham Market, 0.4 mile along the Swift Trail, is your last chance to buy gas or supplies.

Don't miss: Despite it remoteness, Riggs Flat Lake can be busy on summer weekends. Anglers love it for the trout - rainbow, brook and brown. Campers, hikers and picnickers also enjoy the 11-acre lake, named for Lew Riggs, a settler who kept livestock in the area in the 1870s and 1880s. Look for the turnoff to the lake about 11.4 miles after the pavement ends. It's about half a mile to the lake and an additional quarter mile to the campground, which is open from mid-April through mid-November. $10 per night per site. No water.Details:www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado/
forest/recreation/lakes/
riggs.shtml or 928-428-4150.

Playlist

Here are songs to spin while driving on the Swift Trail:
• Heart of Gold, Neil Young: The legend of Treasure Park keeps people searching.
• Brick House, the Commodores: The masonry walls of Fort Grant were mighty in the 1870s.
• My Old School, Steely Dan: No one will ever go back to the closed Fort Grant Industrial School.
• You Make Me Feel So Young, Frank Sinatra: A visit to the kids room at the Columbine Visitor Information Station could do just that.
• On Sirius Satellite Radio: Left of Center (Channel 26) plays indie and underground tracks.
• On XM Satellite Radio: Bluesville (Channel 74) plays all styles of blues.
- Larry Rodgers