I need additionally( I do not include what is usual to a moderate and above equipped home garage )

1 X relay 15W2 X tightening clamps for the hose + 2-3 incase the existing ones are rusted and not re-usable.1 X appropriate cooper ring for tightening the thermo – contact.1 x led indicator (optional) 1 X meter of heat shrink 5 or better more, x meters of spiral tube for the cables at the engine compartment.1 X drive belt multi-v 850mm, with 4 v-ees. BOSCH TYPE 4-PK 8511 X can of WD-4010 X circular plugs for connections to the battery, you will only need two of them.

Editors Notes:• It will not be a description of how I did it since I took some wrong turns on the way so I will describe what I think is the right way. In these cases witch I will note, my description is a little bit “misty”

Work that should been done BEFORE you start:

1. Sit down and plan the whole thing especially the electric part of it. Prepare a drawing as a bock diagram on how the cables will run and will connect. Don’t rush!!!!2. Think carefully the location of the switch since you do not want to accidentally switch it off. I have put it above the lever witch opens the hood, it seems a protected place.3. Plan WHEN you will do it. No kids to read their lessons, no supermarket and the like. It would be nice if you could manage to do it while the shops are open incase you need something. Otherwise either you will not finish that day or If you really need your car to go to work, you will end up with emergency solutions you will have to fix an other day.4. I have decided to finish up the electric part of the job first so that I will keep the car operational the maximum time while working, (If I missed something, I need the car to go and buy it!!), OFCOURCE WITHOUT CONNECTING IT TO THE BATERY. 5. Plan ahead and rehearse what you need to unbolt – loose – locate – install – secure.6. Plan ahead HOW you are going to do it.7. Verify that you have all the necessary tools for what will be required and are in good condition.

Let’s start:

Mechanical part:

1. Disconnect battery cable,2. Remove any plastic covers you may have covering your engine, and the mask in front.3. Remove the protective shield underneath the one that protects the bottom of the steering braketry and stuff.4. here is the part that I didn’t do as described here, so I am not 100% accurate on my directions. Drain (there is a draining screw that you see now that you have removed the protective shield), loosen the hoses, and remove the radiator (If you can remove the shroud now together with the radiator do it) . You can not avoid it. I tried and when I realized I HAD to remove it I had everything loose (shroud – fan and its brackets). So here is the way I SHOULD HAVE done it. You can remove it without removing the A/C one, it takes a little “jiggling”. I had to lift them both so that I could take it off from the holding screw. It is easier moving away the cables hidden on top of the radiators in order to have enough “traveling” length.5. From underneath again you loosen the tensioner and remove the A/C belt.6. You loosen the alternator, and you remove its belt also.7. I would advise you to remove also the coolant reservoir (it will need to loosen the power steering reservoir to do that, but not to remove it) to gain so more space, you may needed ( I did ).8. Now comes the term of the whole fan assembly. You see it supports itself with two brackets. One heavy duty like cast iron on the left and one thinner on the right side. You ( probably, I couldn’t in the way I did it anyway) see it has three large screws that you have to loose. The other bracket has only one that is the same one holding the alternator in place, loosen it remove the bracket and put the screw again in place. 9. Take the assembly out ( with or without the shroud if you had removed it earlier). 10. Re-position the belts, A/c & alternator, tighten everything ( don’t forget the A/C belt tensioner ). 11. Now its time to do the thermo-contact adaptor. Unfasten the tighteners ( careful, they may be rusted spray them with some WD40 ) and remove the lower hose. Cut it accordingly to fit the adaptor – be careful to leave enough rubber length for the adaptor AND the lower radiator hole. 12. Assemble it ( hoses – adaptor AND install and tighten the thermo contact , using WD-40 sprayed so that hoses slide easily into place, and re-position it. You will have to cut away approximately 1 inch to compensate the adaptors length in the middle, which replaces part of the hoses existing length. 13. Now you have to make a decision. If you are going to keep the shroud or not. I did some people didn’t. I can not say what is right or wrong, I just decided to do keep it, and in this way I am continuing the description. If you decide not to keep it, it may be easier.14. Assemble -out of the car - radiator, shroud and fan. I had problems fitting the fan to the shroud since I was missing almost an inch in diameter to fit the shroud and I improvised using various bits and pieces from my junk, haven’t finalized it yet. It is also meaningless here to describe a procedure since to many thing could be different ( Kind and make of fan – keeping or not the shroud e.t.c.)15. If you are keeping the shroud, before you re position the radiator you will have to remove the fan, specially if you, like I did, have the fan situated kind like “after” the shroud and not IN the shroud length. If you are not keeping the shroud, PROBABLY you can mount it all together, again depending on the overall length of the assembly of radiator and fan16. Install the radiator assembly. Connect upper and (modified) lower hoses. Tight the draining plug on the radiator, Fill with whatever you are filling your radiator, plain water, anti freeze whatever.17. Install ( if you have taken out) the radiator reservoir, tighten it and also the power steering reservoir.18. You can install now the protective plate underneath ( I will not do it for a while just to be able to check things, DON’T GO OFFROADING!!!)19. end of mechanical part.

Electric part.

Only general comments here since it all depends on how you will plan it. So here is what I did:

1. I drew three power lines from battery. One to the switch in the cabin (it will be used to supply current at the “on” function) one to the thermo contact ( the “in” current) and one to the relay (this one will be the one actually supplying the fan). I believe that it is absolutely necessary to put a relay.2. From the thermo contact you take an other cable and you drive it also to the switch. That is your 12V “trigger” cable for the “auto” function.3. The output cable from the switch you drive it to the relay to activate it.4. From the high current output pin of the relay, you drive it to the fan5. You take a separate cable and from the “-“ of the battery you go to the ground of the relay and then the fan.

That is basically all.

• Cover all cables with plastic flexible tube universally used for in-car installation, of the appropriate diameter.• Cover all plugs with heat shrinks to avoid sort circuit.

General remarks

• DUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU CONNECT THE BATTERY POLE AND BEFORE YOU TURN THE KEY ON, MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN ALL THE BOLTS YOU UNFASTEN.• Check that the continuously ON function is working.• When on for the first time don’t panic immediately if you see some smoke but not water leaks. Remind you that you have touched the radiator and other parts with your oily hand, so there is oil there that smokes not mentioning the WD-40 you used for sliding the hoses. ( I was panicked before I realized what was smoking)• While the system heats up be sure to constantly be checking for leaks and also add water or whatever since the whole system was emptied.• If you see something leaking be sure that is not spilled water from when you were filling it up• Take your time, letting things dry out, heat up the engine a little bit, say to half of temperature gauge, shut of, check water level, wipe any water spilled and so on all the time double –triple check EVERYTHING while heating up for the first time, don’t rush it. Take it gently.

DISCLAIMERS

• Whatever you do, you do it at your own risk, your own cost and your own responsibility of any possible damage. I can not be responsible for your actions.• This document is not intended to be, and its not a “manual” It is a description of some actions I did to complete the task.• Many minor actions are not included.• All any other possible disclaimers are applied.

Ok, I think I have to add here how the system bhaves after almost 3 months of being there....

and since the Greek heat had started!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />Nothing.Vey smoothNo problems with the battery even thow its an old oneNo problem with the A/C, a funny thing is that when the fan opperates and beeing that strong it improves the efficiency of the A/C!!!!Havent fix the mounting yet but it holds perfectlyGas mileage has increased noticablyThe engine still runs cooler than specs.

Down side thingsNoise - the spesific fan IS noisier than what I would like, but again been so efficient it works only for a few seconds ( about 20)

I wouldn't worry so much if the gauge got to 2/3 of the way. Whe my radiator was blocked, the gauge got to one notch from as far as it can go about three times. The last time it got so hot the cap off the overflow reservoir blew off. The engine is still running, no problems at all. Tough little machine!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

One year and some months.... yep still there to glitch whatsoever.A few frends of mine here in Greece, done the same mode, so some added experience16'' inch is the best compromize... carefull thow Spall for the same size has 3 different qualities... A lower dimension in a higher quality IS NOT the same thing.. A friend of mine has the 12 inch heavy duty... Not good works all the time nearly...

We have also installed an aftermarket thermometter just to be sure of the tem. of the engine...

Wouldn't it be possible to forge the switch and use a thermostat that turns the fan on at a set temp and off at a set temp? this would reduce the risk of forgetting to turn the switch on, you could even leave the swith in place and use it as a by-pass!

the thermo is also there. The switch is for the cases that 1. will clim a steeeeeeeeeeeeeeep hill that will overhet the engine ( preventive )2. when crossing a river you dont want the fan to be on since it will splash the hole engine electriks or brake its fins. Any way been in the water it will cool the engine down

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