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Standard is one behind the splash rail center of boat and one about four inches forward from stern center of boat.
Put a muffin fan over one hole before you install the ports and depending on foam saturation blow air through the boat for one to four months. There are some vids on Youtube...

If you just let the kids fart around with it you could leave as is but if
you want the best performance and something that will not break
you back trying to transport there is no other option than inspection
ports. It's a 30 minute to one hour job to install them so I always go
with that...

Splash Rail is structural, it keeps the hull from flexing. That's why the last two or screws on each end often pull out and the hull seams often pop in that area. If you want confirmation remove the three screws on each end and go sailing in chop.
Watch what happens to the gap between the hull...

It's a structural repair for broken fiberglass so Marine-Tex will
not work. You can get a Rivnut gun if needed for about $45
at Harbor Freight. If the Rivnuts are pulling out they need to
be replaced anyway but removing the screws should not result
in a problem 90 percent of the time.

Epoxy can be used as a filler. First wet the wood and when
it drys sand the fuzz off. Then put epoxy on and scrape off
as much as you can with a card while wet. After the epoxy drys
sand and and apply multiple coats of spar varnish. You'll be
glad you put the extra effort into it later on.

The bottom strap is meant to flex just enough to allow the rudder to kick in and
out. This is tensioned by the spring plate and wing nut on top. Two things happen,
the edges of the pocket in the lower strap wear out and the wood screw holding the
bottom strap pulls out. You will get to the...

Make a nice hardwood board then let your friends use it when
they borrow the boat. I usually spend a total of $15 for a oak
or mahogany plank at the local big box store. I also tend to
have a affinity for wood shavings and spar varnish.

Gads, with the shape it's in you have nothing to lose trying to get the deck loose. The
bow looks like a good candidate to be removed and have a replacement molded from
another Sunfish. The missing part of the top deck definitely needs a replacement
molded from another fish if you are going...

You may be on the cutting edge of later model Sunfish repair. Post pictures of your attempts as many will undoubtedly rely on your pioneering techniques. Even a patient left dead on the table can be a leaning experience.

You'll never get it on the dolly and if you did it would crush it. You can get it
one third of the way onto the beach. Don't bother tying on to the bow handle
and pulling with you car, the results are predictable. To get it further up the
beach I would use a flat ribbon tow strap looped...

Hell ya, I'd take it if I were on the east coast. Blue is my favorite, even
if it looks like it got rammed and there is a v notch in the far side. If you're
coming to Michigan feel free to dump it in my yard.

I never use cardboard as a backing plate. I lay out a sheet of cloth
on wax paper and when dry peel it off the wax paper and use it as
backing. It's fairly flexible for the job.
You could use the shoreline method for the keel but the large chunk
missing is the problem. I would make a...

Use a tapered grinding stone to counter-sink the hole from the outside. Clean up the inside
and apply a strip of glass matt and cloth. When dry apply fiberglass filler to the hole on the
outside. Easier than when you next try to put the aluminum backing plate in. Due to excess
epoxy and junk...

Not much too it really, put 'Sunfish Sailboat Foam Replacement' in You Tube. I
usually do it to fix a crunched bow. Some smart person on this forum solved
the large number of clamps needed by horizontally splitting small sections of
PVC pipe. Sunfish Forum has really helped figure out better...